# Using The Mill As A "bandsaw"



## stevemetsch (Nov 18, 2015)

2 Newbee questions:
I have some 1/8" steel plate about 10" square. I want to cut it into 1" strips. I am thinking that I can clamp is down to the mill table with the cut line over a slot and use a 3/16" end mill and the powered x axis to make my cuts. What do you think???
I have a PM940PDF and have an awful time tramming it. I bought a spindle square (Edge Technology) and it works like a charm, BUT the mill head moves around as I try to tighten it. I am trying to design some kind of  device to allow me to rotate the head with a screw to keep it from moving. Bridgeport has a worm screw. Lathe tailstock has opposing set screws. Has anyone done this.
I am jealous when I see a flycuttter used on a well trammed machine.


----------



## TommyD (Nov 18, 2015)

Seems like a lot of waste to me. I'm in a similar boat and am looking for an old Delta, etc. band saw. I've thought about a portable band saw set up but feel it's too restrictive for my needs. A portable band saw rental may be a little less frustrating than trying to mill it.

I don't know about your particular machine but can you snug the bolts down some and maybe tap it with a rubber or plastic mallet?


----------



## joshua43214 (Nov 18, 2015)

check out the second pic on this link
http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCMillTramAdj.html

You should be able to make something like this for your mill, they just need to be a bit longer. They make tramming really simple.
Either way, you normally just get it close then snug the bolts and tap it around with a mallet.

You can cut the steel like you described, but you really want a bandsaw. You will end up with a saw eventually anyway.


----------



## Andre (Nov 18, 2015)

By the time you're done milling you would've wasted enough endmills to the point where a bandsaw would've been cheaper  

I'd try a jigsaw or a sawzall with short metal cutting blade first.


----------



## Eddyde (Nov 18, 2015)

⅛" X 1"is a common size steel stock, it would probably be cheaper to just buy the strips than try to mill them out of plate.


----------



## TOOLMASTER (Nov 18, 2015)

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/6370-20


----------



## wawoodman (Nov 18, 2015)

TOOLMASTER said:


> https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/6370-20



For the same price, you can buy a HF bandsaw. Not saying that the HF is the same quality as the Milwaukee handheld, but it's a lot more useful in a shop. Ripping narrow pieces with a hand held saw is not that accurate or safe, whether it's wood or metal.

The suggestion that makes the most sense to me is to buy the 1/8 x 1 strips, and call it done.


----------



## gotogojo (Nov 18, 2015)

wawoodman said:


> For the same price, you can buy a HF bandsaw. Not saying that the HF is the same quality as the Milwaukee handheld, but it's a lot more useful in a shop. Ripping narrow pieces with a hand held saw is not that accurate or safe, whether it's wood or metal.
> 
> The suggestion that makes the most sense to me is to buy the 1/8 x 1 strips, and call it done.


go a buy a stick of flat stock one in. wide  and as long as you want in total one in. strips cut across the in.strap every 10 inches make your flat  stock long enough to allow for the thickness of your cutting blade bingo a old arm strong hack saw will  do arms good gotogojo


----------



## David VanNorman (Nov 19, 2015)

The strips is the way to go.


----------



## jatt (Nov 19, 2015)

Just the time factor alone would put me off cutting like that on the mill.

Bandsaw, wouldnt be without one.  In fact there's 3 of various sizes around here.


----------



## TommyD (Nov 19, 2015)

1" x 1/8 is a stock item at the steel supply store I go to, just picked some up to make spring clips for the 56 Chebby truck I'm restoring. I'd always ask if they stock common fractional thickness and width mat'l at the ssore. They also have the ability to cut steel, costing a bit more but saving you time.

Just for ha-ha's jatt, what kind and wot price? Around here they are asking stoopit money for vertical, metal cutting band saws. Wood saws are a dime a dozen, nice old Deltas ,Walkers and like but they run too fast. I gotta see if i have a my old speed  reducer somewhere in my clutter, a band saw would be SO versitile for me.


----------



## pineyfolks (Nov 19, 2015)

For adjustments to your mill you could use left and right hand heim joints attached to the head.


----------



## jjtgrinder (Nov 19, 2015)

For future reference, I bought* an old "Porta-Band" band-saw and mounted it to the workbench standing up vertical.  Used a large "L" bracket and a steel pipe clamp.  Even though I have a large horizontal band-saw, i still use the bench mounted saw for small cuts.  Watch those fingers!!!!  The saw loves to eat finger tips for breakfast.

*(Look in the local pawn shop for used tools, talk them down on the price.)


----------



## BarnyardEngineering (Nov 19, 2015)

I agree on buying 1" flat stock. You can get it at any big box store even.

From what I've seen watching countless hours of machining videos on the youtube, you won't be able to mill clean through 1/8" stock with a 3/16" endmill before you die of old age without snapping off a LOT of endmills.


----------



## TOOLMASTER (Nov 19, 2015)

SURE i could by one of those but then i would have 2...i keep sheets of 1/4 up to 1 inch to always have what i need ..i just slice off what i need..no waiting...as for unsafe...well a toothpick is unsafe for some people.




wawoodman said:


> For the same price, you can buy a HF bandsaw. Not saying that the HF is the same quality as the Milwaukee handheld, but it's a lot more useful in a shop. Ripping narrow pieces with a hand held saw is not that accurate or safe, whether it's wood or metal.
> 
> The suggestion that makes the most sense to me is to buy the 1/8 x 1 strips, and call it done.


----------



## Frank W. (Nov 21, 2015)

TOOLMASTER said:


> SURE i could by one of those but then i would have 2...i keep sheets of 1/4 up to 1 inch to always have what i need ..i just slice off what i need..no waiting...as for unsafe...well a toothpick is unsafe for some people.



Depends on what you have.  In my shop I would either use a sabre  saw or a mini-grinder with 5 x 3/32 inch discs. The sabre saw would probably be most economical.
Cut a bit oversize and use the mill to make parallel side strips.


----------



## stevemetsch (Nov 22, 2015)

Well, I will bow to the more experienced members and skip the "bandsaw" idea.
THanks for all the input.


----------



## planeflyer21 (Nov 27, 2015)

I would ask what tools you already have?  If you already possess a jigsaw or reciprocating saw and a means to clamp the metal securely, bimetal blades will make short work of 1/8" thick steel.  Done carefully, you could get 9 strips (maybe) and definately 8.  Then use your mill to clean up the edges.

All the hardware stores around here sell basic metal supplies, 1/8" x 1" cold rolled being common.


----------



## AR1911 (Nov 28, 2015)

Guys.....  If you don't have a 4x6 import bandsaw, go buy one. Best $200 you will spend for your shop.  Take your 20% coupon down to HF.   No kidding, just do it.


----------



## kingmt01 (Nov 30, 2015)

I got mine cheaper from Enco then HF. They have 25%of & free shipping for another 25 minutes.


----------



## AR1911 (Nov 30, 2015)

Enco is better quality, Jet even better. But most everyone can walk into a nearby HF store, while the other guys are most likely freighted in


----------



## cathead (Feb 18, 2016)

stevemetsch said:


> 2 Newbee questions:
> I have some 1/8" steel plate about 10" square. I want to cut it into 1" strips. I am thinking that I can clamp is down to the mill table with the cut line over a slot and use a 3/16" end mill and the powered x axis to make my cuts. What do you think???
> I have a PM940PDF and have an awful time tramming it. I bought a spindle square (Edge Technology) and it works like a charm, BUT the mill head moves around as I try to tighten it. I am trying to design some kind of  device to allow me to rotate the head with a screw to keep it from moving. Bridgeport has a worm screw. Lathe tailstock has opposing set screws. Has anyone done this.
> I am jealous when I see a flycuttter used on a well trammed machine.



Just a thought on the tramming part.  If you snug up the bolts with a little pressure, I would think you could tap the mill to
trueness with a hammer and then finish tightening the bolts.  I keep a lead hammer handy all the time for just that purpose. 
It's also great for truing up the vise and positioning metal in the vise.


----------



## Billh50 (Feb 18, 2016)

I'd buy the 1" strip and cut it with my HF angle grinder with metal cutting wheel. Then just sand or mill the ends square if needed.


----------



## Metal (Feb 18, 2016)

This this guy got resurrected, ive been looking at the enco bandsaw

Can anyone suggest blades to cut 6061AL /without/ gumming up like crazy?  wax on a sawzall sort of does the job but we're talking 1" plates and I don't want to spend half an hour on every cut.


----------



## jatt (Feb 20, 2016)

This is my small benchtop unit.  Unit is miles away at moment, so cant pop outside and take a foto of the jig I made to run it as a vertical unit.  Not cheap tho, about $600 AUD a few years ago when I purchased it.  Gets used heaps every day.

The bigger floor mount can open up to 300 odd mm, so if desperate can cut a couples of strips off some small bits of plate.  However sure wouldnt sit there and do a heap if I could just pick it up off the shelf.  Have cheated on thicker plate and put it vertical in the bandsaw vise.  Hold offcut with some vise grips to reduce chatter.
This unit runs coolant and has got a round wire brush that helps knock crap out of the blade teeth.

The small portaband I take out on the job isnt much chop for anything but the 1/2 inch rod I cut with it.


----------



## jatt (Feb 20, 2016)

"Just for ha-ha's jatt, what kind and wot price? "
Sorry missed this one.
Portaband -- Millwalkee  Couple of hundred
Benchtop  --- Garrick
Floor mount -- Just some Chinese knockoff.  Over a grand


----------



## TC0853 (Feb 20, 2016)

stevemetsch said:


> 2 Newbee questions:
> I have some 1/8" steel plate about 10" square. I want to cut it into 1" strips. I am thinking that I can clamp is down to the mill table with the cut line over a slot and use a 3/16" end mill and the powered x axis to make my cuts. What do you think???
> I have a PM940PDF and have an awful time tramming it. I bought a spindle square (Edge Technology) and it works like a charm, BUT the mill head moves around as I try to tighten it. I am trying to design some kind of  device to allow me to rotate the head with a screw to keep it from moving. Bridgeport has a worm screw. Lathe tailstock has opposing set screws. Has anyone done this.
> I am jealous when I see a flycuttter used on a well trammed machine.


Maybe set up in the vise and cut it with a slitting saw. I've done what you're contemplating, but it's labor intensive.


----------

