# Need some assistance with wiring. Single phase China motor for Shoptask



## mike96

First off because this is my first tech post I will just say thank you in advance for any help offered... 

Now on to business. I have a Shoptask 3in1 that I picked up about 7 years ago for a killer price. But I will make the long story short and spare you all the boring details about that. The mill spent some time in storage and after getting it back together I was having some issues getting it working correctly, (every time I started the machine one of the capacitors would explode). So I bit the bullet and had the lathe motor taken to a shop and the guy there checked things over and got it back up and running for me in one direction, which is fine for now I donâ€™t really need a reversible lathe at the moment. So the other day I had need of the mill and decided that I had one working motor then I could mirror that one to get the mill working again... needless to say I had to swap the lathe motor to the mill to get it working again. The motor ran however it acts like it is on a push button, it turns on and spins up, then turns off until the rpmâ€™s come down to about half then turns on again and then repeats the cycle. I donâ€™t think there is a centrifugal switch in this motor but I havenâ€™t taken the end cover off to verify yet.

Any input from some experience would be appreciated. Right now I would just like to be able to use either the lathe or the mill without having to swap the motor from one to the other. I will post some pick of the wiring diagram that came with the mill once I get home and have a chance to scan it so for now please bare with the pics of how the machine is set up..

Again thank you for your help.

The little mill/lathe combo




The motor that i got back from repair that is working fine.




The mill motor that isnt working so great sitting next to the lathe motor that is working fine. (Sorry I didnt realize it was so blury, I will try to get a better pic tonight)


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## Tenn

Will try to take a picture of my old Shoptask 3 in 1 machine and look into the wiring if it's OK with the new owner.
Mine was a newer model than what yours looks like but probably still similar ? I had trouble with the start contacts sticking in mine and the people at Shoptask told me to take a block of hardwood and place it against the end of the motor and give it a sharp rap with a hammer. Your problem sounds a bit different than that though ? If I'm not bad wrong I believe there is a centrifugal apparatus in the start mechanism of the motor that was sticking on mine? They aren't hard to take apart and check, you might just pull it apart and have a look ? I'm sure there are some others on here that know more about electric motors than I do ? On mine the start contacts were sticking together and it would just hum and not start. Are there both a start capacitor and a run capacitor on yours I only see one capacitor in the pictures ? I can't remember offhand what mine had but will check it out tomorrow. 

~Chris


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## Tony Wells

If it's a cap start motor, there won't be centrifugal a switch, and vise-versa. It sounds to me like the run winding is not energizing. As soon as the centrifugal switch spins up to speed and cuts out, the motor coasts down until it closes again, ad nauseum. Might be as simple as a wire not connected, or connected to the right place anyway. A diagram and closeup pics will help.


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## mike96

I will try to let all these pictures I just took on my phone upload tonight, but I have to crash. It is almost midnight and I just remembered I have a 7AM hospital appointment (tomorrow is gonna suck). Anyway that first motor pic is of the one I got back from the repair shop and it runs fine the way it is wired now which is kind of weird to me considering it isn't wired anywhere like the diagram in the manual. That was the motor that was originally on the mill. However the last time I tried to run the mill wired per the manual (before I took it to the repair shop) I had two capacitors explode on me. So I don't know. My up loads will include the diagrams from the manual. I am sure we can figure it out, we is all fart smeller's here on the inner-net (or at east I hope some of us are anyway :tounge... But for now I need to hit the sack. See you all in the morning.

Mike.


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## Tenn

Here is my old Shoptask with a wiring diagram of it's motor and a view of the mill motor.

I had very poor light in a dim shop my apology for the poor pics. 

I would want to be sure I was dealing with the same motor before I hooked it up, for that reason it may pay to take it to your motor repairman ?? My 2 cents worth stemming from my lack of electric motor knowledge. I could not make out where the U2 went to in the diagram. This is a different brand motor from your I believe ?? So may be no help at all ? ?

Good luck
~Chris


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## mike96

Wow Tenn, believe it or not when I was checking the website for shop task I found out that your "old" shoptask is actually a newer model of mine... yours has the height adjustable mill head, mine is fixed.

Here is a good pic of the mill the way it is now and a BMP of how it is wired after being rewired by the electrician. As you can see it is wired exactly like the mill motor the only difference being that I have a different brand Cap on the one side. The thing with this is this is the motor that is doing the on/off thing as if it had a centrifugal switch in it. I tried to pop the motor open last night and check it out but I could only get the bottom cover off without the cover trying to drag the armature out of the case with it, but there wasnâ€™t anything under the bottom cover other than a bearing. No switches (sorry I didnâ€™t think to get a pic). now as far as the caps go I believe the one on the right in the round gray cover is a 60Uf at 200V and the small one that is zip tied\taped to the motor is rated at 270-325-Uf at 110-130V I believe.






Now according to the manual this is how the motor should be wired.



Here are a couple of pics of the other motor that goes to the lathe. The only difference between the two motors is that the big Cap (which was one that came with the motor to begin with) was replaced with one that is rated from 53-73Uf at 220-280V. 





Pics of the manual regarding the wiring!







And Pics of the switch... At one point I had the switch diagram drawn out showing what wire were active when the switch was in forward or reverse. I may do that tonight and then do a good overall diagram with everything showing how it is suppose to be connected. Being that I do have a couple of extra capacitors I might try one more time to wire the motor up as per the manual and see what happens. With the motor on the lathe at least if/when the cap blows up it wonâ€™t scare the crap out of me too badly being that the cap will be buried behind a bunch of other stuff and not next to my head.









I think what has me the most concerned is that I know how the machine is wired now and it seems to be working well, I know what the manual says to do and that didnâ€™t work the last time I had it wired that way, and I know that back about 6+ years ago I had the mill and lathe working per the diagrams in the manual and they were working fine thenâ€¦ If I had the caps backwards would that have caused the one cap to explode when I put a load on the motor? Because before when the cap exploded it would start up and run fine until I put a load on the motor and tried cutting something, and then BOOM, right next to my head. That is why I have only one of those plastic covers left.


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## Tony Wells

Well, a capacitor will conduct up until it is charged, then basically go open. That's how they are used as starter capacitors. If they are bad, they can present a short, and overheat and pop. Do you have a way to test the capacitors you have? It's possible that a start/run problem could occur if you had reversed them, but I can't see it cause a capacitor to rupture.


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## mike96

Well I rewired the lathe motor as per the instructions in the manual and all I can say is, I think I will be taking the motor to a shop and have it inspected. It now runs up to full speed and continues to maintain that speed but now it sounds like something is causing the motor to kick back in a rapid succession. It kind of makes a machine gun "dadadadadadadadadadadadadadadadad" sound now (sorry without posting up a video that is the best way I can explain it).


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## Tony Wells

That seems to be wise, and may be money well spent.


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## mike96

No, I just called the shop back today to ask what the verdict was on the motor and after they gave me a scare by making me think they had given my motor to someone else (I am active duty Air Force so I think they thought it belonged to something out at the base when i drooped it off in uniform) they found it and told me that the motor was internally shorted... :crying:. Not a terribly big deal though i still have one on the mill it is just a PITA to swap them back and forth. I may go pick up some materials that will make it a bit easier to do. ;D In the long run however I found this website and i may be looking at a replacement motor for it soon. http://www.billcotton.com/shoptask.htm he replaced the motor on his shop task with a DC motor from a treadmill and was able to incorporate the speed controll so he can adjust the speed of the motor to a degree without having to change pulleys...


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## mike96

As far as I know that is the correct motor for the mill, and to be honest it wouldnâ€™t surprise me if the motor was the original from when the machine was bought new back in 1994. As for the DC conversion i have been looking at the craigslist to see what is available in the cheaper $50 - $125 range treadmill's and you would be surprised to what you can find. I have also been looking for some schematics for the machines that I have been finding and so far it looks promising. The more simple machines without all the fancy features like auto adjustments for target heart rate and such seem to be an easy straight forward install. You have a power cord that plugs into the convertor, that plugs in to the motor control board (in a lot of cases the converter and control board are one in the same), the motor and a choke (resistor I assume) that plug into the control board, and then there is a potentiometer that plugs into the control board to make the speed adjustment... that it 5 - 6 pieces/parts... 

http://www.instructables.com/files/orig/FL4/W8NM/FMEG9UME/FL4W8NMFMEG9UME.pdf

The real trick is finding someone to let me take their tread mill apart beforehand so I can see if the motor has an output shaft and motor mount flange that will/or can be made to work on my shop task before I buy it... But that will be a long term project something probably saved for after the first of the year/tax refund time. For now I think I just might pick up what I need to make the mill/lathe motor swap as easy as posible when I need to make the change.


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## techsol

MIKE96, any chance I could get a copy of your 1720 manual, I can't find one anywhere and my wiring got messed up for the mill motor, cord got caught in the gears!

Thanks Rich


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