# Mounting L00 Adapter Plate To Chuck



## Joe Pitz (Jul 10, 2015)

Hello all,

When I purchased my lathe it had a 5C collect adapter mounted to the  6" 3 jaw chuck.
Several folks here on the forum indicated that this was not a safe way to mount the chuck and that I should change the mounting to an adapter.  Since my lathe has a L00 spindle I picked up a 6" L00 adapter plate.

It just arrived yesterday,  I have a few questions.  Please refer to the below images.

The adapter has a step lathed on the mounting surface.  The chuck has an relief also on the mating surface.

Unfortunately the step in the adapter is larger than the relief in the chuck.

The bolt holes in the adapter are way on the outside of the adapter and look that they are too wide to mount to the holes in the chuck.

The questions are,  should I return the adapter plate?

Or should I turn the step down on the adapter to match the relief on the chuck?

Then drill holes in the adapter to match the holes in the chuck or drill new holes in the chuck and adapter plate?

What is the correct procedure to mount the adapter to the chuck to the run out is near .000"?

Here are the pics.

Thanks 

Joe


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## kd4gij (Jul 10, 2015)

Mount the adapter to your spindle and face it and machine the register to a snug fit for the collet chuck. Then drill the adapter to match your chuck.


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## JimDawson (Jul 10, 2015)

The step on the adapter is called a register, the good news is that it is larger than the register pocket on the chuck.  They are made oversize so you can custom fit to your chuck on your lathe.

Mount up the adapter on your spindle, then turn the resister for a very snug fit on your chuck.  The width of the register should be a few thousandths less than the depth of the register pocket on the chuck, do not let it bottom.  Face the flat surfaces on the adapter so those surfaces are true to your lathe.  The chuck should fit tight to surface outside of the register.

Once that machining is complete, the it's a matter of drilling (and counter boring if needed) the mounting holes.  It looks like you have a choice of a 3 or 4 bolt mount, the chuck seems to have both patterns.  I might be temped to use the C5 adapter as a jig to transfer the hole location.

I'm a little confused about the C5 adapter, it seems to have threaded holes in the 4-bolt pattern as does the chuck.  Not sure how the chuck was originally attached.  I also see some divots in the chuck mounting surfaces, stone, file, or sand those raised areas flat.  Just knock off the high spots.
.
.


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## Joe Pitz (Jul 10, 2015)

Thanks kd4gij,

Should I attempt use existing holes in the chuck or drill new holes directly through the adapter into the chuck?

If the answer is to match the existing holes, then should I disassemble the chuck and use a transfer punch to mark the drill holes?

What is the most accurate method.

Thanks

Joe


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## Joe Pitz (Jul 10, 2015)

Thanks Jim,

It appears that the 4 bolts were just screwed into the chuck,, they were hard to remove as they were tight fitting.

Thanks

Joe


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## JimDawson (Jul 11, 2015)

Disassembling the chuck would be a good option, it will give you a chance to clean it while you have it apart.  Put a witness mark on the outside so you make sure the two halves go back together in the same orientation.  Use some gear oil on all of the moving parts when you reassemble it, and stand out of the way when you first turn it on or you will get an oil bath.  If the jaws and slots are not numbered then number them before you disassemble.

It does not look like the 4-bolt pattern is drilled through the back, but the 3-bolt pattern looks like it might be.  You may not be able to use a transfer punch on the 4-bolt pattern without drilling the holes through after you get the chuck apart.


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## Joe Pitz (Jul 11, 2015)

Jim, another issue,

On the L00 adapter the threaded hub that mounts to the spindle has a quite large diameter.  I laid it on the chuck and the hub is just a bit too large as
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 it covers part of the widest existing holes in the chuck.

See image.

Could you drill holes into the outer ring of the chuck to mount the adapter, shown on the previous images, with the hex bolts on the outer ring of the chuck?

Thanks 

Joe


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## JimDawson (Jul 11, 2015)

I might be tempted to use 3 of the existing bolts in the chuck outer rim if I couldn't use the inner bolt circle.  Just get some longer bolts.  Use either grade 8 hex bolts or socket head cap screws, which ever fits the application best.  Make sure the new bolts are long enough, but not so long as to bottom.  Buy long, and cut them off if you need to.


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## Joe Pitz (Jul 11, 2015)

If the outer bolt holes are not drilled all the way through the chuck, (can't use a transfer punch)  what is the preferred method to mark the holes in the adapter plate for accurate drilling. 

Thanks

Joe


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## JimDawson (Jul 11, 2015)

The outer bolts are through drilled.  The have to be, they hold the two chuck halves together.

But they do make a blind hole transfer punch set.


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## Joe Pitz (Jul 11, 2015)

Yes, that is what I will do then,  Yes when I was mounting my DRO on my mill I cut off some bolt heads off the bolts and ground the ends to a point and used that as a blind hole transfer punch.  But in the case of the lathe adapter, if I need to I would purchase the more accurate ones.

Thanks Jim,

Does it matter if I face the adapter and then turn the register to size or the other way around as you indicated?

Thanks for all of the help.

We have a vacation home up in Olympia WA.  Next time we drive up I will have to stop and buy you a cool beverage.

Joe


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## JimDawson (Jul 11, 2015)

Facing first is fine. Remember to put a small undercut at the back of the register so there is no interference in that corner.  Like the outer bottom of the register pocket in the chuck.

It's my pleasure to help out.

A cool one sounds good!


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## Silverbullet (Jul 11, 2015)

You can transfer the blind holes they have set screws with points and a tool to turn them in and out of the hole , I forget the manufacturer , think they are called blind transfer sets. Your on the right path now mount the adapter to your lathe ,turn the register to size and depth ,should fit snug and not bottom out. The transfer screw sets can be had I think for about $15 . Or make your own out of set screws use your 5 c collets for the job they are designed for , turn points at 60% then file four flats to turn them in and out of the holes set the out just enough so the mark your blued adapter and lay a aluminum plate on the adapter and tap with a good sharp blow . Pull it apart ck your marks oh and add witness mark to the adapter and chuck to realign at the same spot. Drill your holes ,counterbore if room allows then mount your chuck . Install and then ck your runout you can adjust it some by shim but it should be near perfect if the machining is right.


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## Joe Pitz (Jul 11, 2015)

so the undercut would be just before the shoulder rises up to the step?

Joe


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## JimDawson (Jul 11, 2015)

Right where the outer face and the register meet, that would be the left side of the register as you are standing at the lathe.  I hope that makes sense.


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## Joe Pitz (Jul 11, 2015)

So bevel the angle where the outer face meets the side of the step?

See image.


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## JimDawson (Jul 11, 2015)

That one is hard to describe with words, I'm not that articulate.  Right there in the corner where the blue arrow is.  You also want the want to put a small chamfer on the outside corner where your arrow is.


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## Joe Pitz (Jul 11, 2015)

Great,  so an undercut where the blue arrow is and a bevel where the black arrow is.  That is what I will do.

Thanks

Joe


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## Joe Pitz (Jul 11, 2015)

Jim and All,

I took the bolts off the back of chuck, found the witness marks on the chuck.  Tried to tap the chuck with a rubber mallet.

Cannot seem to split the chuck.  The split is right on the middle of where the chuck wrench goes.

Any ideas on how to split the chuck without damaging it?

Thanks

Joe


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## JimDawson (Jul 11, 2015)

Put the wrench in the hole where the wrench goes, and tap it sideways.  Work your way around all 3 holes.  That should break it free, without breaking anything.


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## Joe Pitz (Jul 11, 2015)

Thanks Jim,

That worked.

Joe


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## hvontres (Jul 12, 2015)

Joe, congrats on getting the adapter plate. Just a couple of things I thought of when you finally get around to doing the machining on the plate:

1) When cutting cast iron, don't use any kind of cutting oil or cutting fluid. It will turn the shavings into some kind of ugly paste.
2) Try to cover up the ways when cutting. Cast iron turns into nasty, abrasive dust when cut, not nice little shavings like steel or aluminum
3) Your could probably use a transfer punch to mark the holes now that you have the chuck split appart. just test fit the back half on the adapter and mark the holes.

Hope things are going well.


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## T Bredehoft (Jul 12, 2015)

deleted, too late to help, problem solved.


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## Joe Pitz (Jul 12, 2015)

Thanks Henry,  did not hear from you in a while,  thought you might be gone for a while.
Good tips on machining cast iron.  I have drilled cast iron but not machined it yet.

Joe


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## Joe Pitz (Jul 15, 2015)

I turned the l00 adapter tonight and it fits snug,  first time I turned cast iron,  what a mess,  I tried wrapping rags around the headstock and the saddle,  but the swarf went everywhere.
I had the shop vac running after every cut to clean up the mess.  When I was done I wiped everything down with WD-40.

I ordered the 8mm counterbore and when it comes in, in a few days I will drill and counterbore the bolt holes in the adapter.

Thanks to everyone for their support.

Henry (hvontres) has an extra set of soft jaws he is going to sell me, and is going to mill the angles for me.

When I get these I will bore the steps in the jaws.

Thanks

Joe


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## Joe Pitz (Jul 16, 2015)

Another question,  I was told by Jim to oil the chuck before I re-assemble it.  Just wondering, since the chuck is somewhat sealed, if it would be better to use lithium grease instead of oil.  I understand why oil is used instead of grease, so the chips do not collect and tear up the moving parts.  Just wondering since the the chuck is somewhat sealed, if grease would be better.

Thanks 

Joe


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## JimDawson (Jul 16, 2015)

Joe Pitz said:


> Another question,  I was told by Jim to oil the chuck before I re-assemble it.  Just wondering, since the chuck is somewhat sealed, if it would be better to use lithium grease instead of oil.  I understand why oil is used instead of grease, so the chips do not collect and tear up the moving parts.  Just wondering since the the chuck is somewhat sealed, if grease would be better.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Joe



You understand why I recommend oil, so I'll let others weigh in
.
.


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## Joe Pitz (Jul 17, 2015)

Received the counterbore, drilled and counterbored the adapter.  Reassembled the chuck, using oil, thanks Jim, ,
Mounted the chuck and ran a run out test.  Right on the money,  .0000 run out.

Thanks everyone for all of the help.  This was my first major job on the lathe.  

Joe


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## JimDawson (Jul 17, 2015)

Congratulations on a job well done!


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## Joe Pitz (Jul 17, 2015)

Thanks Jim,  could not have done without your help.

Joe


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## hvontres (Jul 17, 2015)

Good job  I have done two adapters now, and both times were not a lot of fun. I guess I'd better get going on those Jaws of yours


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## Joe Pitz (Jul 17, 2015)

No rush Henry,  whenever you have some time.  There is so much to work on and so much to learn.

Thanks

Joe


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