# 150 Viscosity Oil for the SB



## Kroll (Feb 19, 2017)

Guys does anyone know of a source for 150 viscosity oil?I really don't want to buy 2 different viscosity oil so I was thinking that maybe I could just get by with the 150 for both the headstock and apron. Tks again kroll


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## Bob Korves (Feb 19, 2017)

Kroll said:


> Guys does anyone know of a source for 150 viscosity oil?I really don't want to buy 2 different viscosity oil so I was thinking that maybe I could just get by with the 150 for both the headstock and apron. Tks again kroll


150 using which of the many standards for viscosity?


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## Kroll (Feb 19, 2017)

I really don't know what I'm asking for other than a source to purchase,oil for the headstock and maybe same oil will work in the apron.


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## Fixnair (Feb 27, 2017)

150 sounds like th e old ASTM grading system. ASTM 150 would equate to ISO 32. You can look around for #32 hydraulic oil which will work well for spindle oil. Shell sells Tellus 32. Many auto parts stores sell hydraulic jack oil which is usually 32. By the way 32 equates to viscosity only and falls into the 10 wt range.
I use 32 for both apron and headstock, it works well. Don't use it as way oil though.


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## Reeltor (Feb 27, 2017)

The chart you posted is for  Saybolt 100 degree F . types oil, there are two systems one at 100 degrees F and the other if I remember correctly is at 300 degrees F.
Van Norman milling machines call for 300 Sec. at 100 degrees F. and that translates to DTE Heavy Medium.
You do not want to use 150 weight oil as measured today.  I have a cross reference between the old systems and modern oil on one of my hard-drives.  I'll see if I can locate it.

Mike

I just found this on the net, you want the ISO equivalent of the saybolt viscosity that your lathe calls for.  Looks like 32 was right on the money.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/viscosity-charts/


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## Fixnair (Feb 28, 2017)

Reeltor said:


> The chart you posted is for  Saybolt 100 degree F . types oil, there are two systems one at 100 degrees F and the other if I remember correctly is at 300 degrees F.
> Van Norman milling machines call for 300 Sec. at 100 degrees F. and that translates to DTE Heavy Medium.
> You do not want to use 150 weight oil as measured today.  I have a cross reference between the old systems and modern oil on one of my hard-drives.  I'll see if I can locate it.
> 
> ...



When I was drafting my response to Kroll I wanted to suggest more than one brand. I was trying to think of the Mobil spec but couldn't, I've lost too much grey matter. I think the upper end of the SUS scale was 200 degrees. The target temp for optimal oil temperature in an automotive engine.
regards


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## Glenn Brooks (Feb 28, 2017)

Kroll,  I use GL-1 rated 90 weight straight mineral oil in all my machines.  This has equivalent viscosity to 30 wt motor oil, but is formulated for older gear boxes and really any non-hypoid gear meshing systems -e.g. Lathe and mill headstocks, 1950's auto and farm transmissions, etc. 

You can usually find GL-1  one gal Mineral oil jugs in most auto part stores.  This rating standard is printed on the label of each jug.  just look for "gear lube mineral oil" or similar.  It has no additives that leach out yellow metals that may be present in the gears, bearings, or seals.

Also, GL 1 lube oils have larger, more random  molecular size than modern, high pressure hypoid shaped transmission gears.  This larger molecular size insures the lube oil adheres to the teeth and edges of the gears properly.  Modern hypoid oils are so small and uniform molecularly,  that they physically run off the edges of low pressure gearing during operation. Hence do not lubricate properly and cause excessive/premature wear.  The hypoid additives also attack some older metals.

Glenn


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## JimDawson (Feb 28, 2017)

I use the same as Glenn


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## Reeltor (Feb 28, 2017)

Glenn and Jim and anyone else with knowledge about small gear boxes with "yellow metal" gears.

Not to get too far off topic but is this GL-1 the lube that I should use in my small garden/lawn tractor trans and tiller gearbox?  Both call for 90 weight gear oil and I know that they have brass/bronze in the gearboxes.

Mike


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## Fixnair (Feb 28, 2017)

Glenn Brooks said:


> Kroll,  I use GL-1 rated 90 weight straight mineral oil in all my machines.  This has equivalent viscosity to 30 wt motor oil, but is formulated for older gear boxes and really any non-hypoid gear meshing systems -e.g. Lathe and mill headstocks, 1950's auto and farm transmissions, etc.
> 
> You can usually find GL-1  one gal Mineral oil jugs in most auto part stores.  This rating standard is printed on the label of each jug.  just look for "gear lube mineral oil" or similar.  It has no additives that leach out yellow metals that may be present in the gears, bearings, or seals.
> 
> ...



Glenn, if you look at reeltor's post and follow it to BobThe Oil Guy's chart you will see 90wt equates to 40 to 50wt plus. I dont know where you're located but you might see some flow problems at low temps with 90wt. Mobil DTE heavy mediun and Shell tellus 33 have excellent lubrication properties and much improved flow properties at low temps. Plus it's probably cheaper. 
 I use chain oil as way oil because it sticks to the ways, some people call it bar oil. It's made for chain saws.


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## Kroll (Feb 28, 2017)

Doing a search,I see that the local Tractor Supply has the oil also


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## Glenn Brooks (Feb 28, 2017)

Hi guys,  yes I've noticed some problems in the last few weeks with this weight oil.  It's definitely a summer weight oil.  What happens with the SB Fourteen I recently bought, is that the transmission doesn't turn over very well until the oil heats up from running ... causing the three phase motor to lug down and drop a phase .... smoking like Hxll.  This at temps around 35* F in the morning.  To mitigate, I've taken to starting the lathe in low gear, in neutral, so no load on the spindle.  Run a few minutes, then restart in low.  Once warmed up, then I switch to higher gears for 400RPM and above to use carbide tooling.

I've looked for Mobil and  Shell.  They don't have much distribution around my area, and I can't find them in small quantities.  so just use the Napa Brand mineral oil.

Mike,  If you are sure your gear boxes have brass/bronze in the gear box, then the GL 1 lube oils are your best bet.  Wouldn't hurt to explore GL 2, 3, or 4 either, as these lubes have slightly increased formulations and are designed to service specific generations of more recent engines and transmissions.  I am not very knowledgeable about modern small engine lubes. So possibly,  what Fixnair said above about modern lubes would be better  for your tractor. Compare to what the manufacturer specifies and pick the formulation most closely suited... The more recent formulations have additives that, while harmful to yellow metals in old gear boxes, the newer gear boxes aren't made with these metals anymore, so there is no harm using GL rated 3,4, or maybe 5 rated oils.  Also These newer oils  have antimfoaming, and anti rust additives, and often are multi viscosity, so work well with a wider range of operating conditions.

Glenn


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