# Where can I get these fuse links?



## Michaeljp86 (Jan 24, 2013)

Does anyone know where I can get more fuse links like this, they are 2.1 amp.


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## 4GSR (Jan 24, 2013)

Replace with copper penny.

That's what they do in the Middle East.

That looks almost like a AB heater for a starter?  Do you know what it is out of?


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## Michaeljp86 (Jan 24, 2013)

4gsr said:


> Replace with copper penny.
> 
> That's what they do in the Middle East.
> 
> That looks almost like a AB heater for a starter?  Do you know what it is out of?



Theres a cap you screw off that says GE. There is one of these inside.


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## 4GSR (Jan 24, 2013)

OK,

I suspect it's a GE heater.  They may be harder to find.  Try e-Bay, if not find a electrial supply house in your neighbor hood that handles GE contactors.

They're not going to be cheap!  Guessing around $10 apiece.   Grainger maybe another source for them, too.

Ken


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## Michaeljp86 (Jan 24, 2013)

4gsr said:


> OK,
> 
> I suspect it's a GE heater.  They may be harder to find.  Try e-Bay, if not find a electrial supply house in your neighbor hood that handles GE contactors.
> 
> ...



$10 seem a lot for 2 pieces of copper soldered together but Id like to have a spare. My dad said hes seen them before. There is 2 electrical places I can stop at next week.


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## 4GSR (Jan 24, 2013)

Here's a link to a guide for selecting heaters

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...4tdgHO52UNr61q2GQ&sig2=-NqmkTrUdwJm3AEWobnziA

Here's a listing in Grainger for some sizes.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...fNT31L5oRrx5NmPAA&sig2=AZ6e935cG7hmNh-BZhKG3w


Wow! my $10 guess is not even close!


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## Michaeljp86 (Jan 24, 2013)

Yikes, still none like I need. This one has a little springy are that goes under the flat spot and the round part slips on a copper rod. When it heats up the solder melts and the springy arm pulls it apart.


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## twstoerzinger (Jan 24, 2013)

I think you are describing a replaceable element fuse. These are known as a UL Class H fuse.
The outer cartridge is a cylinder. Each end has a screw driver slot that allows you to remove one of the caps and pull out the replaceable fuse element.
They come in different sizes, but in the 2 amp range they are 9/16" dia x 2" long.
These things are getting pretty old. McMaster Carr still sells replaceable elements, but it looks like 5 amp is the lowest rating they have.

I would be inclined to replace the fuse with a modern version, like an RK5 style. RK5's fit into H type mountings.
You can buy a new RK5 fuse for about the same cost as the replaceable element in the type H, about $6.
Then, you don't have to try to get the element back in the housing without damaging the element.

First you need to know if the old fuse is "time delay" or not (also known as slow-blow).
There should be a number on the outer cartridge of the old fuse along with a trade-name such as "Super-Lag" or "Slo-Blo."
"Fast Acting" fuses protect electronics, lights and things that have no starting surge.
Motors require a "slow blow" fuse to allow a brief over current when the motor starts.
Cooper-Bussmann calls their motor rated fuse "Fusetron." The Bussmann number for an RK5 style, 250V, 2.0 amp would be FRN-R-2.

RK5 style fuses are commonly available at "home improvement" stores, hardware stores, and electric supply houses.
Take the old fuse housing with you as a reference when you go to buy. Be sure to buy a spare - saves a trip back to the store.
Terry S.


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## 4GSR (Jan 24, 2013)

Oops, I missed the part of the screw off cap.

Forget what I posted, then.


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## Michaeljp86 (Jan 24, 2013)

I dont see any slow blow or anything like that, just a number and GE and 550V 2.1 amp


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## OldMachinist (Jan 25, 2013)

Does the main body screw out and have a Edison base(light bulb thread)?


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## twstoerzinger (Jan 25, 2013)

OK - based on your photo, forget everything I said about H and RK5 fuses.
The photo sure looks like a traditional Edison based fuse.
I have never seen one that comes apart (intentionally).
Perhaps the top came off when you tried to remove the whole fuse body. If the fuse has been in the socket many years, they can be hard to remove.
Are you sure you cannot unscrew the whole fuse body and replace it with a new one?
Does this fuse box power a motor, and what voltage does it run?


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## 4GSR (Jan 25, 2013)

I think it's time to upgrade your electrical system.

That type of fuse has been banned and obsoleted for many years now.


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## Michaeljp86 (Jan 25, 2013)

twstoerzinger said:


> OK - based on your photo, forget everything I said about H and RK5 fuses.
> The photo sure looks like a traditional Edison based fuse.
> I have never seen one that comes apart (intentionally).
> Perhaps the top came off when you tried to remove the whole fuse body. If the fuse has been in the socket many years, they can be hard to remove.
> ...



That porcelain doesn't screw out, just the caps come off.  Im running it on 220V now, the guy who had it before me ran it on 440V. The power goes through this disconnect and to the drum switch then to the motor.

This is the only protection the motor has. If I replace this Id like to replace it with something that will prevent any damage to the motor.


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## OldMachinist (Jan 25, 2013)

If these are the same fuses the were in it running on 440v you'll need to look at your motor to see what the amps will be running 220v. The motor amperage should be about double on 220v vs 440v.


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## Michaeljp86 (Jan 25, 2013)

OldMachinist said:


> If these are the same fuses the were in it running on 440v you'll need to look at your motor to see what the amps will be running 220v. The motor amperage should be about double on 220v vs 440v.



motor says 5 amps on 220


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## twstoerzinger (Jan 25, 2013)

For 5 amp, 220V, 1ph, you can run a 5 amp "Tron" style fuse.
It will protect the motor at 5 amps, but will allow an over-current to get the motor started.

But, I agree with the comments below. It is time for you to upgrade to a modern motor protection system.

Just yesterday, I bought a new 240V, 1 phase, 2 pole, 3 wire, fused, safety disconnect at a local home improvement store (Menards).
Its a GE 30 amp rated, with RK style fuse mounts. 
The GE model number is TG3221CP. It will accept fuses down to 1 amp.
The price was $19.95.
Two 25 amp fuses (one each line) cost me a total of $13.00
The safety disconnect switch also gives you a way to isolate power from the machine when you need to work on the machine.

One last thing. This is a single phase motor, right?
A 3 phase disconnect is probably not to be found at a home improvement store. You would have to go to an electrical supply house.

Semper Paratus - upgrade to a new fuse system so you will be ready for the "surf & storm & howling gale" and all of that.

Regards,
Terry S.


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## Michaeljp86 (Jan 25, 2013)

twstoerzinger said:


> For 5 amp, 220V, 1ph, you can run a 5 amp "Tron" style fuse.
> It will protect the motor at 5 amps, but will allow an over-current to get the motor started.
> 
> But, I agree with the comments below. It is time for you to upgrade to a modern motor protection system.
> ...



Its a 3 phase motor but I only have single phase so I have to run a converter. This disconnect is on the 3phase side of it.


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## refinery Mike (Feb 10, 2013)

Those are fuses and it is going to be hard to find a replacement. NFPA outlawed the production of renewable fuse link fuses like two decades ago. So your only chance is to find it at an antique store. My guess is that the thing this fuse link fits into origionaly  was supposed to be removable. It is just so corroded that now it will not come out. I would work on trying to screw it out. With the power turned off for sure.


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