# Is This Wired For 110 Or 220?



## TomS (Dec 14, 2016)

I've had my lathe for several years and have been running it on 110v since I got it.   As I'm not electrically inclined I asked a neighbor to help me wire my lathe for 220v operation.  The wiring went without a hitch except that it had more power running on 110v than it does on 220v.  With a shaft in the chuck and the lathe running about 300 rpm I can grip the shaft and slow down the rpm considerably.  Obviously this lack of power also shows up when turning.  My neighbor swears up and down it's wired for 220v.

I've attached the wiring diagrams for the main control box and for the motor terminal box.  The picture is the low/high (110/220) voltage wiring diagram on the inside of the motor terminal box cover.

I could start probing around with my multimeter but I thought I would consult the resident electrical gurus before making matters worse.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Tom S.


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## jim18655 (Dec 14, 2016)

We'll need to see how the motor wires are connected to determine if it's connected properly for the voltage. Looks like the reversing switch will also need to be reconnected for 220 volts.
Did you rewire the motor control box?


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## TomS (Dec 14, 2016)

jim18655 said:


> We'll need to see how the motor wires are connected to determine if it's connected properly for the voltage. Looks like the reversing switch will also need to be reconnected for 220 volts.
> Did you rewire the motor control box?



Thanks for taking a look.  The motor lead connections are shown in the attachment "Lathe Motor Terminal Box".  Not sure what you mean by the reversing switch needs to be reconnected for 220v.  The motor runs in forward and reverse as it's wired now.  The only wiring I've done is I recently replaced the left side contactor.  What the previous owner did I have no idea.  I looked at the electrical box diagram and realized the one I attached is for 110v operation.  The only difference is the transformer inputs are H1 and H4 for 220v operation which is how it is currently wired.  The X1 and X3 terminals feed the contactor coils.

Let me know if you need more info.

Tom S.


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## master53yoda (Dec 14, 2016)

did he connect wire 2 and 3  he may only have one winding running, we really need to see how the motor itself is wired and the reversing switch will need to be rewired,


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## TomS (Dec 14, 2016)

master53yoda said:


> did he connect wire 2 and 3  he may only have one winding running, we really need to see how the motor itself is wired and the reversing switch will need to be rewired,



Here's a picture of the motor terminal block.  The attachment in my original post has the corresponding diagram.  I'll do my best to explain how the wires are connected.

The black wire connected to the upper left terminal goes to "U" on the terminal strip in the main electrical box.  The yellow wire directly below is the #3 motor wire.  The red wire below the yellow wire goes to "M5" on the terminal strip.  The black wire connected to the lower left terminal goes to "V" on the terminal strip.  The wire connected to the upper right terminal is the #4 motor wire.  The blue and red motor wires below the white wire are #A2 (Red) and #2 (Blue).  The third (Red) wire down on the right is #A1 motor wire.  The black wire connected to the lower right terminal is the #A1 motor wire.  Did this answer your questions?


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## master53yoda (Dec 14, 2016)

it appears to me from the wiring diagrams from the lathe and the picture of the motor to be correct,  do you have 240 volts on the 2 black wires   V and U when it is running that should be 240 volts if not that could be the problem.  The diagram for the lathe electrical box doesn't show the switching that is going on so that part is a guess.   Also insulate the unconnected wire as it could be hot from the internal switching

art B


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## TomS (Dec 14, 2016)

master53yoda said:


> it appears to me from the wiring diagrams from the lathe and the picture of the motor to be correct,  do you have 240 volts on the 2 black wires   V and U when it is running that should be 240 volts if not that could be the problem.  The diagram for the lathe electrical box doesn't show the switching that is going on so that part is a guess.   Also insulate the unconnected wire as it could be hot from the internal switching
> 
> art B



I'll check the voltage in the morning and report back.  For info terminals 1 thru 5 feed the front control panel which has the on/off switch, jog, for/rev switch, and power on indicator light.

Thanks,

Tom S.


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## jim18655 (Dec 14, 2016)

Motor connections look correct. I'd like to see the 220v control panel diagram.


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## TomS (Dec 15, 2016)

jim18655 said:


> Motor connections look correct. I'd like to see the 220v control panel diagram.



The lathe didn't come with a manual so the only 220/110 volt diagram I have is the one attached to the original post.  I made it up to have as a reference when I changed out the contactor.  

Tom S.


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## TomS (Dec 15, 2016)

Checked voltages at all the terminals in the motor pecker head.  First I verified that I had 220v coming into the main electrical box at terminals R and S.  With the power switch off these are the readings I got in the pecker head:

110v between upper left terminal and A1
110v between second terminal down on left and A1
No power between third terminal down on left and any of the four terminals on the right
110v between bottom left and A1

With the power switch on I get the same readings.  I also took voltage readings with power to the forward switch and to the reverse switch (terminals 4 and 5).  If that is helpful information I will post it.

My gut is telling me that the disconnected red wire (M6 at the terminal strip) needs to be connected to the second terminal down on the left side.  Again, I'm not an electrician just saying that this wire should be connected somewhere.

Tom S.


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## master53yoda (Dec 15, 2016)

master53yoda said:


> do you have 240 volts on the 2 black wires   V and U when it is running.
> art B



The unused red wire is part of the reversing in 110 VAC low voltage, in High voltage is is not used.  but could still be hot .

the readings need to be wire to wire not wire to ground.

Art B


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## TomS (Dec 15, 2016)

master53yoda said:


> The unused red wire is part of the reversing in 110 VAC low voltage, in High voltage is is not used.  but could still be hot .
> 
> the readings need to be wire to wire not wire to ground.
> 
> Art B



Yes, I have 240v across U and V.

Tom S.


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## jim18655 (Dec 15, 2016)

Just for reference,  when you're measuring 240 Volts if you go to ground you  could be reading the voltage flowing through the motor from one of the phase wires and not necessarily both of the phase conductors. Same as checking for a blown fuse. If the B phase fuse is out then the A phase power will be on the top and bottom of the A fuse to ground and the bottom of the B phase to ground. Check for a blown fuse from top to bottom on the same fuse.  Zero volts means the fuse is good and system voltage indicates a blown fuse.
Can you hear the centrifugal open and close when you start and stop the motor? It must be closed or the motor won't start. I'm not sure what would happen if if doesn't open at 75% speed. I know the start winding should only be energized less than a minute or it will burn out.


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## TomS (Dec 15, 2016)

jim18655 said:


> Just for reference,  when you're measuring 240 Volts if you go to ground you  could be reading the voltage flowing through the motor from one of the phase wires and not necessarily both of the phase conductors. Same as checking for a blown fuse. If the B phase fuse is out then the A phase power will be on the top and bottom of the A fuse to ground and the bottom of the B phase to ground. Check for a blown fuse from top to bottom on the same fuse.  Zero volts means the fuse is good and system voltage indicates a blown fuse.
> Can you hear the centrifugal open and close when you start and stop the motor? It must be closed or the motor won't start. I'm not sure what would happen if if doesn't open at 75% speed. I know the start winding should only be energized less than a minute or it will burn out.



Thanks for the fuse testing info.  As you can tell I don't know much about electricity other than it hurts when you touch it.

I can't hear the centrifugal switch when I start the motor because of the the contactors making up.  I've run the motor for extended periods with no problems.  It just doesn't have much torque.

Tom S.


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## jim18655 (Dec 15, 2016)

You could wire the motor direct to the 240 supply and test the motor torque. That would at least determine whether the problem is in the motor or the control panel.


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## TomS (Dec 15, 2016)

jim18655 said:


> You could wire the motor direct to the 240 supply and test the motor torque. That would at least determine whether the problem is in the motor or the control panel.



Sounds like a good idea.  Which motor wires do I connect to the black wire and which to the white wire?  I've got the green wire dialed in.  LOL

Tom S.


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## markba633csi (Dec 15, 2016)

Tom check that you really have 220 volts between motor wires #1 and #4,  Then check that #2 and #3 are connected together, per the diagram.  One of those two things must be wrong, it seems to me.  That motor should have tons of torque.  Be careful too, of course.
Mark S.


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## markba633csi (Dec 16, 2016)

I should like to mention, the absolute safest way to troubleshoot a problem like this would be with the power completely OFF,  using an ohmmeter or continuity tester,  lifting wires one by one and taking readings.  I don't like to recommend testing live circuits and in fact I try to avoid doing it myself even though I have worked with electricity for years.  My Dad dropped a screwdriver across 220 once when I was a kid, and it really made an impression on me.  It certainly made an impression on him LOL
Mark S.


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## TomS (Dec 16, 2016)

markba633csi said:


> Tom check that you really have 220 volts between motor wires #1 and #4,  Then check that #2 and #3 are connected together, per the diagram.  One of those two things must be wrong, it seems to me.  That motor should have tons of torque.  Be careful too, of course.
> Mark S.



I'll check it in the morning.

Tom S.


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## master53yoda (Dec 16, 2016)

I


jim18655 said:


> You could wire the motor direct to the 240 supply and test the motor torque. That would at least determine whether the problem is in the motor or the control panel.



It appears that the start circuit wiring is coming from the lathe wiring it may not start going direct to the motor with 220,  if it doesn't.  *Do not *leave the power on for more then a second or you could burn out the run winding.

I have made the assumption that you have tried the lathe in both directions and that it starts both ways.

If three and two are not connected you would not get any movement but just a "humm" from the start winding.

Just a question,  what speed are you trying to run this at , is it belt driven and is it possible that the lack of torque is slippage in the belts etc.   From everything you have shown it looks to me that it should be OK. Electrically Maybe ULMA DOC will see something we are missing, you might PM him and ask him to look at it.  This may need a new set of eyes.

Art B


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## TomS (Dec 16, 2016)

master53yoda said:


> I
> 
> 
> It appears that the start circuit wiring is coming from the lathe wiring it may not start going direct to the motor with 220,  if it doesn't.  *Do not *leave the power on for more then a second or you could burn out the run winding.
> ...



I've been running it wired this way for a few weeks now.  Runs in both directions just not much torque so I don't think it's running on the start circuit.  It's not belt slippage because I can hear the motor slow down when taking a cut.  In fact first thing in the morning when the head stock oil is cold it takes as much as 30 seconds to get up to top speed.  As the oil warms up it ramps up much quicker.

Edit:  I run in in the low range which gives me a top speed of about 800 rpm.  Taking a .030" DOC with a feed rate of .008" per revolution on 2" mild steel round just about stalls the motor.  Didn't have this problem when it was wired for 110v service.  
Tom S.


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## jim18655 (Dec 16, 2016)

master53yoda said:


> I
> 
> 
> It appears that the start circuit wiring is coming from the lathe wiring it may not start going direct to the motor with 220,  if it doesn't.  *Do not *leave the power on for more then a second or you could burn out the run winding.
> ...



Start circuit doesn't come from the control panel - only the direction is determined from the panel. Centrifugal switch is shown on motor connection diagram.  If the motor is connected per the diagram he'll be fine testing it


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## master53yoda (Dec 16, 2016)

what I was seeing in the wiring diagrams was that the power to terminal A1 for the start winding was coming in from the control panel, if for some reason it was going through a relay  it wouldn't necessarily have continuous power and it wouldn't start.

On the torque question i was trying to cover all possibilities.     What was the reasoning for going to 220 if 110 was working OK.


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## TomS (Dec 16, 2016)

master53yoda said:


> what I was seeing in the wiring diagrams was that the power to terminal A1 for the start winding was coming in from the control panel, if for some reason it was going through a relay  it wouldn't necessarily have continuous power and it wouldn't start.
> 
> On the torque question i was trying to cover all possibilities.     What was the reasoning for going to 220 if 110 was working OK.



I went with 220v because I wanted to move my lathe a bit further away from my CNC mill.  Needed a bit more room to maneuver.  As it was I had a long cord running to the nearest 110v outlet.  Moving the lathe put it closer to a 220v outlet.  Changing wiring in the pecker head was a lot simpler than making up a longer cord.  Or so I thought. 

Tom S.


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## TomS (Dec 16, 2016)

TomS said:


> I'll check it in the morning.
> 
> Tom S.



I'll physically check the connections but according to my wiring diagram #2, #3, and #A2 are connected together.

Tom S.


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## master53yoda (Dec 16, 2016)

TomS said:


> I'll physically check the connections but according to my wiring diagram #2, #3, and #A2 are connected together.
> 
> Tom S.



From what I can see in the pictures etc. they are connected correctly,  for it to start and run it almost needs to be wired right, so maybe its time to look at other possibilities besides the motor wiring.     

Have you run anything else on that 220Vac plug.    It might be possible that the wiring to the plug has problems and the voltage under load is dropping way down, the only way that would show up is voltage checking either during startup or under load. 

art B


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## TomS (Dec 16, 2016)

As I said in my original post I did install a new reversing contactor at the same time as I changed over to 220v.  I'm going to check to make sure the wiring is per the wiring diagram but could there be something there, e.g. internal circuits different than the original contactor?  

Tom S.


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## master53yoda (Dec 16, 2016)

TomS said:


> As I said in my original post I did install a new reversing contactor at the same time as I changed over to 220v.  I'm going to check to make sure the wiring is per the wiring diagram but could there be something there, e.g. internal circuits different than the original contactor?
> 
> Tom S.


its possible, but because it is starting in either direction and running the wiring for 240 almost has to be right.  The only other thing I can think of  is if the start switch in the motor isn't opening,  the motor would get very hot if that was the case and draw a lot of current.   It would also be a major coincidence for that to go bad at the same time as the change in wiring.

Art b


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## TomS (Dec 16, 2016)

I verified that #2, #3 and #A2 are connected together.  I also went back over the electric box wiring, specifically the contactors, because of changing out the reversing contactor at the same time as changing over to 220v operation.  I did find something but not sure it resolves the issue at hand.

Look at the revised diagram attached below.  You note that the transformer wiring is different.  This change reflects the change from 110v input power to 220v input power.  That's OK and understandable.  Take a look at the left (reversing) contactor.  Note the two jumpers.  These weren't on the diagram that was attached to my first post.  I don't think this is the problem as the jumpers allow input power to flow from the reversing contactor to the forward contactor.  Am I off base on this?

Tom S.


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## TomS (Dec 16, 2016)

master53yoda said:


> From what I can see in the pictures etc. they are connected correctly,  for it to start and run it almost needs to be wired right, so maybe its time to look at other possibilities besides the motor wiring.
> 
> Have you run anything else on that 220Vac plug.    It might be possible that the wiring to the plug has problems and the voltage under load is dropping way down, the only way that would show up is voltage checking either during startup or under load.
> 
> art B



The lathe is plugged into my welder outlet.  It's single use though.  I can't weld and run the lathe at the same time.  I'll check voltage under load and see what happens.

Tom S.


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## TomS (Dec 16, 2016)

Set up a 2" piece of round stock in the lathe.  Took about a .040" DOC at about .008" IPR feed rate.  Running at 425 rpm it bogged the motor down significantly.  Measured the input voltage across terminals R and S and got 240v.  

To verify if the motor is getting 240v do I measure across terminals U and M5 and V and M5? 

Tom S.


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## TomS (Dec 16, 2016)

Went ahead and checked voltage across U and M5 and V and M5.  Got 240v across each.  Anything else I can check?

Tom S.


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## TomS (Dec 16, 2016)

Had another thought.  Could it be the motor?  This is the original motor (vintage 1989) and it's Asian manufactured.  It's being fed 240v but seems like it's running on 110v.  Maybe one of the windings went south?  Just guessing at this point.

Tom S.


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## master53yoda (Dec 16, 2016)

TomS said:


> I verified that #2, #3 and #A2 are connected together.  I also went back over the electric box wiring, specifically the contactors, because of changing out the reversing contactor at the same time as changing over to 220v operation.  I did find something but not sure it resolves the issue at hand.
> 
> Look at the revised diagram attached below.  You note that the transformer wiring is different.  This change reflects the change from 110v input power to 220v input power.  That's OK and understandable.  Take a look at the left (reversing) contactor.  Note the two jumpers.  These weren't on the diagram that was attached to my first post.  I don't think this is the problem as the jumpers allow input power to flow from the reversing contactor to the forward contactor.  Am I off base on this?
> 
> Tom S.



Is there a jumper between H2 and H3 on the transformer.  For high voltage that is the only jumper that should be on the transformer.  
It also looks like there should be a set of jumpers on the other contactor or the transformer is never powered.    But then it shouldn't work at all???????  

   Does the welder work ok on high amp settings.          Checking the operating voltage is still  the only way to eliminate it as a problem.
Art B


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## master53yoda (Dec 16, 2016)

I just read about getting 240v across both U and V to m5  it only should be from one of them at a time.       without the contactor jumpers i asked about on the last post it could be putting the transformer in series with the windings and it would act like choke on the motor.   That may be what is wrong.    I'm going to print and modify the drawing to the way I think it should be.     give me about 45 minutes and I'll get back.


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## master53yoda (Dec 16, 2016)

I added how i think the switching in the lathe is set up and the motor wiring.  the jumpers are in red   I also added the contacts and the contactor coils.

Art B


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## jim18655 (Dec 16, 2016)

What model lathe is this?


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## markba633csi (Dec 16, 2016)

I think Yoda's got it- the contactor (or transformer) is in series with the motor, cutting the current
MS


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## TomS (Dec 16, 2016)

master53yoda said:


> Is there a jumper between H2 and H3 on the transformer.  For high voltage that is the only jumper that should be on the transformer.
> It also looks like there should be a set of jumpers on the other contactor or the transformer is never powered.    But then it shouldn't work at all???????
> 
> Does the welder work ok on high amp settings.          Checking the operating voltage is still  the only way to eliminate it as a problem.
> Art B



There isn't a jumper on the transformer.  There are voltage designations for each of the transformer terminals.  H1 is 0, H2 is 110, H3 is 220, and H4 is 240.  My understanding of the circuitry is that H1 is the neutral and line voltage is connected to one of the other three terminals depending on your input voltage.  In my case it's 240v.

I did check the operating voltage at stand still and under load.  In both instances it was 240v+.

Tom S.


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## TomS (Dec 16, 2016)

jim18655 said:


> What model lathe is this?



It's a Enco 110-2072 (12 x 36) manufactured in 1989.

Tom S.


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## TomS (Dec 16, 2016)

master53yoda said:


> I just read about getting 240v across both U and V to m5  it only should be from one of them at a time.       without the contactor jumpers i asked about on the last post it could be putting the transformer in series with the windings and it would act like choke on the motor.   That may be what is wrong.    I'm going to print and modify the drawing to the way I think it should be.     give me about 45 minutes and I'll get back.



You are correct in that I get 240v across U, V and M5 one at a time.  

Tom S.


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## TomS (Dec 16, 2016)

master53yoda said:


> View attachment 141561
> 
> 
> I added how i think the switching in the lathe is set up and the motor wiring.  the jumpers are in red   I also added the contacts and the contactor coils.
> ...



Thanks.  I need to study this so I can understand it.

Tom S.


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## master53yoda (Dec 16, 2016)

TomS said:


> There isn't a jumper on the transformer.  There are voltage designations for each of the transformer terminals.  H1 is 0, H2 is 110, H3 is 220, and H4 is 240.  My understanding of the circuitry is that H1 is the neutral and line voltage is connected to one of the other three terminals depending on your input voltage.  In my case it's 240v.
> 
> I did check the operating voltage at stand still and under load.  In both instances it was 240v+.
> 
> Tom S.


you are correct with the transformer connections if that is how they are ID.  are the jumpers on both contractors and did i label the internal contacts in the contractors the way they really are.

About the only thing left , is the possibility that one of the windings in the motor has the numbers reversed and it is working against the other winding.  Try reversing wires 1 and 3 from the motor,  use the on /off switch to just jog the motor. if it seems to start OK go ahead and turn it on and see if it comes up to speed quickly, like it did on 110.

if the windings are reversed they can cancel each other out, its kind of like putting one battery in backwards, and the only thing working is the start winding. and once it drops out the motor would have very little torque as the magnetic fields generated by the windings cancel each other with the exception of the current from the rotating  rotor. 

Art B


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## TomS (Dec 16, 2016)

master53yoda said:


> you are correct with the transformer connections if that is how they are ID.  are the jumpers on both contractors and did i label the internal contacts in the contractors the way they really are.
> 
> About the only thing left , is the possibility that one of the windings in the motor has the numbers reversed and it is working against the other winding.  Try reversing wires 1 and 3 from the motor,  use the on /off switch to just jog the motor. if it seems to start OK go ahead and turn it on and see if it comes up to speed quickly, like it did on 110.
> 
> ...



Thanks to everyone that has taken the time to share their thoughts and expertise.  Without your help I would have had to hire an electrician to sort this out.  I think we're getting close.

The jumpers are on the left/reversing contactor only.  Other than the jumpers on the right/forward contactor your drawing appears to be accurate.  

I'll swap wires 1 and three and see what happens.  Could it be a bad motor winding causing this low torque situation?

Tom S.


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## master53yoda (Dec 16, 2016)

on series connected windings they electrically must be ok or you wouldn't get anything.

I am almost positive that the jumpers need to be on the right contactor.  you might want to pop the top of that contactor  and see if the contacts are configured the way i show them in my drawing.  the right contactor will need those jumpers for the correct operation.

Art B


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## TomS (Dec 17, 2016)

I swapped wires #1 and # 3.  Motor hummed/groaned and that's about it.  I called a local motor shop this morning that I've done work with and he said bring it in and he will test it.  My house is full of grand kids this weekend and then I'm headed out of town for the holidays on Monday and won't be back until after the first of the year.  So this is going to sit until I get back.  I'll will post the motor test results.

Tom S.


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## master53yoda (Dec 17, 2016)

Well that leaves putting the jumpers in the other contactor as the last thing to do.   Have a good holiday and we'll see how things are after the new year

Art B


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## TomS (Dec 18, 2016)

Happy Holidays everyone and thanks for your help.  I'll let you know what I find out at the motor shop.

Tom S.


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## TomS (Jan 3, 2017)

I took the motor to a local motor shop today to have it tested.  Found that the run capacitor (metal case) was shorting to the motor housing.  The technician said shorted capacitors aren't common but it does happen.  Replaced the capacitor and wired it back up.  Runs great!  Took a .050" DOC at .008" per evolution in mild steel and the motor didn't change rpm.

Thanks again to everyone that helped with comments and recommendations.  I learned a few things along the way.

Tom S.


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## markba633csi (Jan 4, 2017)

Tom: Glad you got it fixed; it's not entirely clear to me what the shorted cap was doing (was this a start cap or a run cap?) electrically to the motor performance.  
Sounds like it was stealing current from the run windings somehow.  Anyhow, have fun! Make chips!
Mark S.


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## TomS (Jan 4, 2017)

markba633csi said:


> Tom: Glad you got it fixed; it's not entirely clear to me what the shorted cap was doing (was this a start cap or a run cap?) electrically to the motor performance.
> Sounds like it was stealing current from the run windings somehow.  Anyhow, have fun! Make chips!
> Mark S.



It was the run capacitor.  

Tom S.


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