# 1820 Logan first repairs



## John TV (Jun 29, 2019)

So I started working on the Logan 1820 lathe, switched motors to a 1 hp I had in the shop. Noticed the pulley coming off the small motor was not factory or close. Both pulleys smaller by far than the 2.3" and 4.28" recommended by Logan. Can't afford a nhew Logan replacement at $169  so I looked online and still don't see anything close. Any thoughts from you folks? making one may be my best option but skills are still weak and time is short. 

Second issue, I broke the small flat spring that keeps the belt guard closed. Looked for info on making flat springs and did not find anything that seemed to show actual process. Any ideas on flat spring making?

Third question, what are your thoughts for flat belt replacement with a link-belt?

Lots to do and lots to learn, you folks are a great resource, thank you for your thoughts. 

John in Minnesota 


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## mmcmdl (Jun 29, 2019)

I have a lot of motors with pulleys on them . I'll be out in the garage all day tomorrow ( I hope ) but will check what's in the masses .


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## John TV (Jun 29, 2019)

That would by awesome if you find something close with a 5/8" keyed hole, let me know what you would like for it, would help get this old girl running a lot quicker. Thanks. John in Minnesota 


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## mmcmdl (Jun 29, 2019)

I have bunch of them but not sure what size they are .  I DO know where they are though , so I'm better off than I was last week .


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## pablo (Jun 29, 2019)

hi john pablo  recovering from pace maker install  call me after monday bandage removal should be up and reran to go


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## benmychree (Jun 29, 2019)

Flat springs;  I just made a couple of them for a patternmaker's vise for the dogs, I made them from high carbon steel banding, about ,050 X 2", I formed them cold, and did not worry about heat treatment, they are hard enough as is.  Otherwise, buy annealed W-1 or 0-1, form the spring shape, heat to red and quench; if the W-1 steel is oil quenched, it might not need to have the temper drawn, otherwise, harden and draw at 600 deg, or blue temper with either steel.  Generally, W-1 is water quenched, 0-1 is oil quenched.


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## pablo (Jun 29, 2019)

john metal supermarket for a slug of choice the atlas and broach set your press should be a go cant drive till monday dont panic im close


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## Nogoingback (Jun 30, 2019)

There's a Logan 10" pulley with a .625 bore on Ebay:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Logan-lath...584479?hash=item3d8c85ce9f:g:t~8AAOSwSCRc99O9.   Would that do it?

My belt guard had a broken spring when I bought my lathe.  My quick and dirty fix was to turn a brass pin and buy an O-ring at the hardware
store.  It's a bit ghetto, but completely secure.





Logan sells a flat belt with a link in it if you don't want to pull the spindle out of the headstock.  I don't think that link belts on
a flat belt pulley are going to work, it that's what you mean.  If you're willing to pull the spindle, Logan sells a glued flat belt, or you
can use an automotive serpentine belt.  There's nothing wrong with flat belts.


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## John TV (Jun 30, 2019)

Thanks for all the responses,

Flat springsI think I can do that,a great help,

Link belt, just a thought, saw a post by somewhere where it seemed to work fine but flat belts are long lived and proven so likely go in that direction. 

Ebay pulley, they say it's for 10 inch bench cabinet model lathe but Logan site recommends 4.28" large pulley and the eBay one is 5.25. Is that too much difference, could I switch pulleys without a motor tension change, I don't think I know,? Any thoughts?

Pablo, thanks, lets talk after you mend awhile, and glad to hear you are on the mend. I'm really not in that much of a hurry to get her up and running it just I'm so slow it's time to get started, nothing urgent. Let's talk in a week or so. 

Time to go to my real job. Have to keep paying the bills 

Again thanks for all your responses. 

John in Minnesota 


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## Nogoingback (Jun 30, 2019)

John TV said:


> Ebay pulley, they say it's for 10 inch bench cabinet model lathe but Logan site recommends 4.28" large pulley and the eBay one is 5.25. Is that too much difference, could I switch pulleys without a motor tension change, I don't think I know,? Any thoughts?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



You might try to do the math and figure out what difference in speeds that would make.  I'm not sure about your lathe, but Scott
Logan told me that on the Model 200 (10") there were two different sets of motor pulleys, though he didn't know when they changed,
and it isn't clear from part numbers.  I have what I think is the original counter shaft pulley with the later motor pulley that they sell
now.  I have to re-tension the belt if I change the pulley, though that really isn't a big deal.  5.25" sounds pretty large though: I wonder
if it's really from a 10" lathe at all.  Could be from something else.  If you aren't in a hurry, you could just keep watching Ebay.

Edit:  There are three 2.50 x 5.25 Logan pulleys on Ebay right now.  One of them is described as from an 11" lathe.  Wouldn't surprise 
me if the other one isn't really from a 10" machine.


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## eeler1 (Jun 30, 2019)

The 1820, by memory, has a 2 step v-belt pulley coming off the motor to a 2 step flat pulley at the countershaft.  Then a flat belt from the countershaft to the spindle.  Is that correct?

Conversion from flat to link/v-belt from the countershaft to the spindle is a kinda big deal.  Nothing wrong with flat belts for that machine.  Agree with nogoingback, the Logan belt is made for that machine, and the 'link' is just to tie the two ends together, i.e., it is not a continuous belt which would require you to pull the spindle, nor is it a fenner style link belt (google it).  Same term 'link' for two different kinds of belts.   If your machine is all v-belt, then the fenner style link belt is a good way to go.  Fenner is a higher cost brand of link belt, other places sell the cheaper import link belt, Grizzly I think has them.

Alternately, if your existing pulleys work, why not leave them in place until you have the skills to make your own pulleys to the correct size.  Maybe run it in back gears if the speed is too fast.  If the bore doesn't fit the new motor, you may be able to drill and file to make it work.  That way you can use the machine while making/finding the correct sizes.

I once had a Logan 200 that had one pulley off what looked like an auto, maybe an old Buick.  Machine worked ok, by memory, I just didn't have a high and low range, only low?  And the motor was just kind of hanging out back resting on the peg leg, I don't recall if the adjustment for motor tension was a big deal. Used it until I found a replacement pulley of approximately the correct size and steps.


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## John TV (Jul 3, 2019)

So I looked up my serial number and was puzzled, seems I have a 1947 Logan model 820 not a model 1820. A closer look at a slightly cleaned up "model plate" shows a stamped 820 but there is also a stamped additional symbol I thought was a "1" but may be a small "10" not sure. Either way very similar lathes. Looks like the 200 and the 820 are similar too. 

From some crude measuring and using an online pulley calculator I think the pulley size is 2.33 and 4.28 the size of most Logan 10" lathes per Logan site. Think I will just make one. Math doesn't work out perfectly but close enough. 

Thanks again for your help. 


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## Nogoingback (Jul 4, 2019)

I just had a look at the 1944 Logan catalog, which lists the 820.  It shows motor pulley diameters of 2 3/8 and 4", which is the
same as the Model 200 of the same year.  Spindle speeds are identical.  Either pulley would probably work just fine, though
you might have to re-tension after a pulley change.  No big deal.

I'm betting the 5.25" pulley on eBay is an 11" pulley after all, and not suitable.

Edit:  I just measured my (later) pulley:  2.31 - 4.28".


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