# Atlas 10 x 30, first steps to using lathe & setup



## oldschoolcane (Apr 12, 2019)

Finally got the lathe loaded onto my work bench, have some really basic questions about first steps to get this lathe up and running?
What type of belt do I need to find for this lathe? Any recommendations on how to clean the lathe up? Is there any source for a wiring diagram for the lathe, the wiring was cut when I picked the machine up, I'll try to get a picture of the existing wiring.


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## pontiac428 (Apr 12, 2019)

First step is definitely to go through the lathe and inspect the parts for damage, function, and wear.  Clean and lubricate everything per the chart.  For cleaning, you can use anything from simple green (butyl cellosolv type cleaners) to mineral spirits, whatever suits you.

The next thing I would do is adjust the spindle and gibs as outlined in the MOLO.  Then I would set up the change gears to something around .005-.010 feed, just for starting out and seeing how things work.

You can use a link belt (Fenner, powertwist, etc) for both belts.  Sized belts will vary depending on your setup, since the motor and belt countershaft might be set up differently on the bench than mine.

I think if you made it this far, you can start turning some test pieces to see how it works.  Follow the manual and reinforce your understanding with some youtube videos before you put power to it.

This is a short answer to a short question, so I am sure others will chime in.


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## markba633csi (Apr 12, 2019)

Show us the loose ends of the wiring, it shouldn't be too hard to piece it back together
Mark


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## wa5cab (Apr 12, 2019)

cane,

If you want suggestions of how to clean up the lathe, you really need to post photos of the machine.  They would also answer at least some of the other questions.

But first, there are two ways in which to specify the size of an Atlas lathe (or if your audience is familiar with the make,any lathe).  The most common is to specify the swing and the approximate maximum distance between centers.  Note that in the US and territories, swing is the approximate diameter of the largest diameter piece that you can somehow attach to the spindle and not have it hit the ways.  In Britain and most of the Commonwealth, the swing is half of that, or the rounded down to the nearest half inch of the distance from the spindle down to the top of the ways.  For practical reasons, most makers will have the actual value of either method be just slightly larger than the stated value.

As I am familiar with the Atlas machines, I know that they never made a 10x48.  So you must have a 48" long bed.  Which means that the lathe is a 10x30.  In order to determine which belts you need, we will need to know the model number and/or the Series number.  Which photos might answer.  Up until 1945, Atlas sold whatever was the current Series (letters <blank> through F) with either of two types of countershaft, called Vertical and Horizontal.  They each require different belt lengths.  Briefly, the Vertical countershafts have their main bracket attached to ether the headstock, bed or rear of the left leg.  In the case of all of the Atlas 10 inch lathes, the Horizontal countershaft  is always attached to the top of the stand or bench that the lathe legs are attached to.  And for the belt numbers to work, the bracket must be attached the correct distance behind the lathe.  This location is shown on documents in Downloads.

Finally, there are two types of belts that will work, known as V-belts and Link belts.  Each type has advantages and disadvantages.  And each is available in qualities ranging from near-junk to excellent, which usually means with costs from cheap to not-cheap.  However, almost every time that the drive belt subject comes up here or in any other forum or on any other list, the thread devolves into an argument between those who like Link belts and those who don't.  So anyone who tries to start up that argument again will have his or her first post deleted.  Second or subsequent posts will be treated in the same way as political or sex posts and the member may be either moderated or banned.  Whichever you decide to use, you will need to know the length.  And the FHP V-belt part numbers give that.  So when we know what your lathe needs, I or someone will post the factory belt numbers.  If you are already familiar with link and V-belts, fine.  If you aren't, do a search in only this Forum for "link-belt' and you can read some of the previous discussions and arguments.


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## oldschoolcane (Apr 15, 2019)

Robert, My Atlas lathe is a 10, H48 - #51183. I have posted pictures.


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## wa5cab (Apr 16, 2019)

Yes, it is in the database.


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## oldschoolcane (Apr 16, 2019)

Here are a couple of pictures that include the wiring ends. The first picture is the wiring coming from the lathe. The second picture shows the wiring end coming from the lathe on the left and the wiring end coming from the motor?


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## wa5cab (Apr 17, 2019)

The insulation on the cord from the appears to be bad (the photo appears to show a crack in the insulation where the white wire comes out of the cord).  So that cord should be replaced before you attempt to apply power.  The cord coming from the motor with black, white and green insulation looks OK but you should confirm that it isn't stiff and subject to cracking.  If it is, replace that one as well.  

The two conductors coming from the lathe should just go to the motor switch.  When you replace it, especially as the lathe appears to me mounted on wood, you should use a 3-conductor cord with the third (green) wire connected to the headstock somehow.  

Confirm that the green wire from the motor goes to the motor frame.  Presumably the black wire goes to one side of the RUN winding(s) and to one side of the START circuit.  And the white wire goes to the other side of the RUN winding(s) and to the other side of the START circuit.  If that is correct, you will need to mount a separate junction box on the stand as a place to connect the switch cord, motor cord and line cord.

On the other hand, if the black or white motor cord wire is loose inside of the motor junction box, then the loose end of the motor cord should have an AC 3-pin line plug attached to the three wires.  The switch cord should go to the motor, with one wire tied to the loose line cord conductor and the other one connected to the unconnected sides of the RUN and START circuits.


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## oldschoolcane (Apr 24, 2019)

Robert,
As a replacement for the cord going to the switch what type of wire cord should I use? Any ideas on a supplier? Is this something a Home Depot would carry? Thanks.


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## wa5cab (Apr 24, 2019)

Well, the specific wire that I would use is #14-3 SJOOW 300 VAC.  You could also use 600 VAC but you don't need it, the outside diameter is a little larger and it is more expensive.  The same wire should be used for the line cord to the outlet.  You can probably get it at Home Depot or Ace.  I would probably order it from McMaster but I would be ordering 50 or 100 feet at a time.


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## oldschoolcane (Apr 26, 2019)

Thank you, Robert. Appreciate your help. Thats my first challenge is the re-wiring.

Tim


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## markba633csi (Apr 26, 2019)

Tim: is there also a power cord with a plug? Or is that missing? If so, you need to pick up some extra cord and a plug when you go shopping
Mark


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## markba633csi (Apr 26, 2019)

ps 16 gauge cord would be acceptable if they are out of 14 gauge


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## markba633csi (May 2, 2019)

Here is a diagram if it helps:


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## oldschoolcane (May 15, 2019)

Got delayed on this project for awhile, now I am back with more time. Thanks Mark for the additional replies, yes the motor cord has a plug. The diagram is helpful as I am not very experienced with anything related to wiring. I'll give this my best and maybe have someone check my work to be sure I don't want to ruin my motor.


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## wa5cab (May 15, 2019)

Just so that you understand, the wire colors are those for the external wiring, not the possibly many more wires coming out of the motor.  And the external wires that are there may or may not match those colors, as found.


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## oldschoolcane (May 17, 2019)

Okay. Thanks Robert.


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## markba633csi (May 17, 2019)

Hi Tim: Don't worry about ruining the motor, if the wiring is wrong it will just trip the house breaker
Mark


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## markba633csi (May 17, 2019)

...and/or burn the house down


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## oldschoolcane (May 22, 2019)

Thanks Mark, good motivation!


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## oldschoolcane (Jun 21, 2019)

Wiring is complete. Now to determine which belts are best to move forward with? Are there any documents on this forum that would give me some more information on the length of belts needed? I know this was mentioned earlier but I don't know how to find this information? Thanks.


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## wa5cab (Jun 21, 2019)

The factory belts for a 10" with horizontal countershaft are 4L410 for the spindle (assuming that you mount the lathe and countershaft per the factory instructions in Downloads.  And 4L390 for the motor.  Assuming that you mount the motor approximately where the original mounting bracket had it.


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## oldschoolcane (Jun 26, 2019)

I have the belts ordered, the MOLO suggests SAE 10 but it looks like SAE 20 is actually recommended as a lubricant. Is this the SAE non detergent oil? Is 3 in 1 oil the same? What about the Way oil, does anyone have any feedback they can offer? I'd like to use an oil I can find here in Missouri.


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## markba633csi (Jun 26, 2019)

No, 3 in 1 oil is much too thin,  use SAE 20 non-detergent; you may have to order it
In a pinch, you can use chainsaw bar oil on the ways,  but the SAE 20 everywhere else


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## WCraig (Jun 26, 2019)

oldschoolcane said:


> I have the belts ordered, the MOLO suggests SAE 10 but it looks like SAE 20 is actually recommended as a lubricant. Is this the SAE non detergent oil? Is 3 in 1 oil the same? What about the Way oil, does anyone have any feedback they can offer? I'd like to use an oil I can find here in Missouri.



You can order spindle and way oil online.  In the US, for example:



			Spindle/Way Lubricant – Blue Chip Machine Shop
		


Craig
PS Mods:  Could there perhaps be an FAQ or pinned thread as this question seems to come up quite regularly.


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## francist (Jun 26, 2019)




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## wa5cab (Jun 27, 2019)

The Atlas manuals including the MOLO gave SAE 10 up until sometime in the 1950's when they changed the recommendation to SAE 20 retroactive.  The only exception is that on the open gears, a no longer available grease was recommended.  My assumption on an alternative grease is that it should also be graphite bearing and that it should be rated for high temperature.  The reason for the latter recommendation is that most common greases not rated as high temperature will liquefy and sling off at only slightly above 100 F.

  SAE 20 includes ISO 46 and ISO 68.  When unable to find oil rated as SAE 20 ND, I use the latter but at least one person reported using the former.  Detergents, AFAIK, are never mentioned in Atlas documentation and the assumption has generally been to use Non-Detergent.  There are two reasons for this.  First is that commonly available high detergent engine oil is generally more expensive than straight 20 weight and there are no known benefits to using it on any machine tool we are apt to have.  The second is that most commonly available motor oils like you would find in an auto parts store have an additive that absorbs moisture.  IC engines get hot enough when running to flush the absorbed moisture out the tail pipe.  Machine tools do not.  The remaining additives (detergents) probably do no harm but serve no useful purpose in a machine tool so aren't worth paying extra for.

Mobile sells an ISO 68 oil described as "Heavy Medium Circulating Oil" which is what I generally use when I can't find straight SAE 20.

The most commonly available 3-IN-ONE oil is SAE 10.  As shown by the photo above, it can be had in SAE 20.  But some simple calculations will show that it is pretty expensive per gallon. 

Way oil and chain-saw bar oil clings to a vertical surface better than most other oil so should probable be used on the ways and dove-tails.


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## markba633csi (Jun 27, 2019)

Sorry Tim I forgot 3 in 1 comes in two flavors now, you could use the one for motors but ounce for ounce it's pricey like Robert mentioned


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## oldschoolcane (Jun 28, 2019)

I found the SAE 20 non detergent oil yesterday locally. Looks like all I need now is the way oil, I do have Stihl bar oil so I guess that'll work till I find a better option. Glad to have some of the details behind me, looking forward to actually using my lathe! I sure appreciate all the help everyone has offered me. Thanks to everyone.


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## oldschoolcane (Jul 21, 2020)

Its been awhile but I finally have time to spend working on the lathe. In the process of going through the lathe, adding the belts, cleaning and lubricating the necessary parts. Everything is complete, only lubricating issue was with the spindle pulley as the screw won't back out to apply oil? It was suggested that I set the change gears to a .005-.010 feed - is there any reference here on the forum to doing this? I have reviewed the MOLO and I didn't see any mention of this?


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