# PM 1440 TS lathe purchase



## cgmaster (Dec 23, 2014)

I am preparing to buy a 1440ts. Looking at the pictures it does not look like it has a chip pan. Does anyone have any experience with this lathe? Are there any gear or belt changes needed to reach any threading settings?

I plan to install or have the dealer install a VFD and ELecronica SW400 DRO.

 I hope to have the lathe by early March. Has anyone experienced setup problems with this model lathe? 

I mainly do gunsmithing and needed a lathe with short headstock and high precision. I also do some other general machine work every now and then if requested.


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## dave2176 (Dec 23, 2014)

I don't see a 1440ts. Personally I prefer the PM 1340GT over most of the 14" machines there. 
Dave


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## zmotorsports (Dec 23, 2014)

I looked and talked to Matt about both the 1440ET and the 1440TS, the 1440ET very, very closely and almost changed my order from my 1340GT but in the end couldn't justify the cost difference.  They have the same spindle bore and bed width so basically a different style QCGB and an inch more throw over the bed and a few hundred more pounds of weight.

Very nice looking machines though.  Matt told me that they were just a big brother to the 1340GT, same factory and same quality of fit and finish.


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## cgmaster (Dec 23, 2014)

From my understanding the bed was wider on the 1440 ts? 9" compared to 7.5"


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## zmotorsports (Dec 23, 2014)

cgmaster said:


> From my understanding the bed was wider on the 1440 ts? 9" compared to 7.5"



Yes, sorry, that is correct. The 1440TS and the 1440TV both have the 9" bed width, the 1440ET is the same as the 1340GT. The cost difference was quite a bit beyond my already blown to hell budget though at over 50% additional. They all three look like very nice high end lathes though.

If you can swing it, I don't think you would be dissapointed, especially if they are of the same quality as the 1340GT which I am very happy with.


Mike.


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## Doc W (Jan 4, 2015)

I have the 1440TS with the VFD and DRO installed by Matt. That is correct, there is no chip pan but it is quite easy to make one, I just have not got around to that yet. Set up went without issue if you can handle the 2600 lbs that this thing weighs. It is very well made, very rigid  and the fit and finish is very good. The micrometer dials on the cross slide, compound and tail stock were too stiff to move with one hand. It was simple to disassemble and shorten the spring on the ball detents. The machine is very smooth and vibration free in all gears. It is great for the gunsmith. I made inboard and outboard spiders and can do barrels 20 inches in length. I would purchase this lathe again .


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## cgmaster (Jan 4, 2015)

Doc W said:


> I have the 1440TS with the VFD and DRO installed by Matt. That is correct, there is no chip pan but it is quite easy to make one, I just have not got around to that yet. Set up went without issue if you can handle the 2600 lbs that this thing weighs. It is very well made, very rigid  and the fit and finish is very good. The micrometer dials on the cross slide, compound and tail stock were too stiff to move with one hand. It was simple to disassemble and shorten the spring on the ball detents. The machine is very smooth and vibration free in all gears. It is great for the gunsmith. I made inboard and outboard spiders and can do barrels 20 inches in length. I would purchase this lathe again .
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



thank you I have seen a few pics and the basic specs and it seems like it will be a good lathe. Do you have any pics of the back side of the spindle with the cover off? I am trying to plan how I am going to my rear spider and possibly an indexing attachment. I am also curious if there are any gear changes needed to get to any thread? 

 I am really looking forward to getting it.  I sold my Rockwell 14" due to the fact I couldn't cut metric threads and within 2 days of selling it I ran into someone that could have made the change gears I needed to cut metric threads for under $500.


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## tmarks11 (Jan 4, 2015)

dave2176 said:


> Personally I prefer the PM 1340GT over most of the 14" machines there.
> Dave


Than I guess you haven't seen the 1440TS.

It is also made in Taiwan, and is not stamped from the mold of the typical Asian 12x36-14x40 machines.  Significantly wider bed (9"  vs 7"), significantly stouter, with a heavy one-piece cast iron base. This is the machine that the Grizzly G0506 should be!

I was on the fence on buying one, but saved the money for a cnc machine instead.  I am sure that I will end up regretting not getting one.





I don't know why Matt doesn't show this on his website.


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## zmotorsports (Jan 4, 2015)

tmarks11 said:


> I don't know why Matt doesn't show this on his website.




When I was looking at these Matt told me he didn't have them on his website because the people that usually purchase these are industrial shops as they are overkill for the home/hobbyist/small business shops that frequent his website and therefore well beyond the budget of most so he doesn't like to complicate the decision making process.  He said he will quote people on them when he feels that they are looking for more than his website displays.


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## wrmiller (Jan 4, 2015)

zmotorsports said:


> When I was looking at these Matt told me he didn't have them on his website because the people that usually purchase these are industrial shops as they are overkill for the home/hobbyist/small business shops that frequent his website and therefore well beyond the budget of most so he doesn't like to complicate the decision making process.  He said he will quote people on them when he feels that they are looking for more than his website displays.



I agree with your comment about 'overkill' for the hobbyist. Well, for most hobbyists anyway. But then there are always outliers...


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## cgmaster (Jan 4, 2015)

wrmiller19 said:


> I agree with your comment about 'overkill' for the hobbyist. Well, for most hobbyists anyway. But then there are always outliers...



Well I guess I am one of the "outliers". I am going back to my old job in a few months and pretty much work 6 months a year. I plan to get my class 2 FFL and do gunsmithing and select machine work on my time off so I do hope to turn my hobby into something I can make enough to be self sustaining.


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## wrmiller (Jan 4, 2015)

It sounds like you're buying a machine to do work/make money, not hobby stuff. A bigger, more commercial grade makes sense in that case. But, the 1340GT I'm waiting on is more machine than I need to support my personal gunsmith and hobby work so I guess I one of the outliers too, compared to some.


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## Doc W (Jan 5, 2015)

I am currently not on the mainland and will be back home in a couple of days. I can send photos of the inboard and outboard spiders then. One additional thing I like is, I was able to build the outboard spider and it does not interfere with the cover. On my other lathe , Jet 1340 BD, to use the spider all the gears were operating in the open as the cover had to be removed. Yes this lathe is probably overkill in my shop. We all learn with time to make adjustments for our equipments shortcomings and obviously many on this site are more skilled than I and produce beautiful work with lesser equipment . I have had the Jet lathe for over twenty years and other than replace belts it has worked well. It will produce accurate work once you learn its quirks. Did I really NEED a new lathe? Probably not but I wanted a more rigid lathe with more power. I was also tired of changing belts to change speeds. Gun smithing is not a very stressful deal for a lathe but this thing is a real pleasure to use for the gun work and great for other jobs here on the ranch. 


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## zmotorsports (Jan 5, 2015)

Doc, I don't think you will be disappointed in that lathe one bit.  Had I not already gone well overboard on the milling machine and blown my budget to hell I may have gone that route but as is the 1340GT does everything I need it to and then some.  I haven't even begun to push its limits yet.

Congrats and make sure to post up some pics when you get it set up and operational.


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## Doc W (Jan 6, 2015)

cgmaster, I apologize for not answering all your questions. Yes there are some gear changes to make for metric. Quite simple and quick, the extra gears come in the tool box. I am new at this site so I will try to upload some photos for you, will see how that goes. The gears are easy to get to and the changes to the gear train are well depicted on the cover.
To upload photos, Tapatalk says I need the latest version of their app from ITunes . iTunes says the latest version of Tapatalk is not compatible with this ancient IPad 1. I will try to get this done on the computer but it may exceed my tolerance for technology .


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Doc W (Jan 6, 2015)

Got my Mac Book Pro and went to the ITunes app store. It tells me that it cannot locate any Tapatalk app. So I went to the help section on this site and explained my problem on the area about posting photos and then on the section that lists the moderators that will help and when I hit send I get the message that this thread is no longer active. Defeated by technology! If you want the photos you can email me ; mdw@beecreek.net


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## cgmaster (Feb 22, 2015)

Well it think plans have changed. I am going to call Matt tomorrow and change to the 1340GT I think. I just bought an Acer 17x60 I couldn't pass up for the price and condition. My only concern is if I can use my CXA toolpost on the 13x40? I have tons of holders and tools for CXA which my Acer also has a Dorian with a 4 way quick change cxa that looks really nice.


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## tmarks11 (Feb 23, 2015)

cgmaster said:


> My only concern is if I can use my CXA toolpost on the 13x40?


I really doubt the CXA will fit on a 13" lathe. I would recommend getting someone to measure the distance between the top of the compound slide and the workpiece centerline on the 1340GT, and compare it to the measurements in the Aloris catalog.  The CXA tool post is 0.250" taller than the BXA tool post.  Doesn't sound like a lot, but it doesn't take much.


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## mksj (Feb 23, 2015)

I use a Dorian BXA, I have had some problems with there oversize holders and travel. The PM1340GT top of the compound to the chuck center is 1.70". Also depends on the holders and tooling, but very doubtful that it would fit a CXA. One consideration, use a BXA QCTP with oversize BXA holders and you can probably use 3/4-1" inset holders. 

That being said, you could probably get good $$ for the CXA Holders/tooling.


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## tmarks11 (Feb 23, 2015)

mksj said:


> The PM1340GT top of the compound to the chuck center is 1.70". Also depends on the holders and tooling, but very doubtful that it would fit a CXA.


The normal Aloris CXA-1 holder is 1.4375" tall to the top of the tool slot.  That means that with a 3/4" bit in it (filling the 3/4" slot completely), and the bottom of the holder flush with the compound slide, it would be 0.253" below centerline, so it seems like it would fit (unless I am missing something obvious).  BXA-1 is 1.1.25"

However, if you like #71 (parting holders),  the CXA-71 will not work since the top of blade is 1.9375" (BXA-71 is 0.9375").


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## cgmaster (Mar 4, 2015)

I am going to give it a try when I get my lathe. I may get one of the cheap Chinese ones and try shortening the toolpost. the reason I want to stick with the CXA is that I have Dorian and DTM on my other lathe and have numerous holders.


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## tmarks11 (Mar 4, 2015)

cgmaster said:


> I am going to give it a try when I get my lathe. I may get one of the cheap Chinese ones and try shortening the toolpost. the reason I want to stick with the CXA is that I have Dorian and DTM on my other lathe and have numerous holders.


The problem won't be the height of the toolpost, but the actual dimensions of the tool holders.  If the tool holder is flush with the top of the compound slide, the stacked height made up by the thickness of material below the slot + the height of the tool bit could put you above centerline.

If you need to shorten something, it would be by facing 0.050" off the bottom of the tool holders.

But as I said earlier, for Type I & II tool holders (turning and boring) you should be okay.  You would probably run into problem on tool holders for parting.  Of course, I personally don't like parting with HSS blades, and use an Iscar indexable carbide parting/grooving tool bit in a Type I holder, which probably would work for you.

I can understand wanting to stick to one tool dimension.  Tooling is expensive enough without buying everything twice.  And the indexable tips that fit in a 5/8" tool bit are too small for a 3/4" tool bit, so you have to buy a whole different size of carbide tips.


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## coolidge (Mar 4, 2015)

tmarks11 speaking of which can you pm me a link to that Iscar parting tool?


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## tmarks11 (Mar 5, 2015)

coolidge said:


> tmarks11 speaking of which can you pm me a link to that Iscar parting tool?



I have the Iscar Do-Grip DGTR parting/grooving tool.  This can't part anything with a diameter of greater than 1.3" (they make other models that handle greater diameters).  I like it because it securely clamps the insert in place, it minimizes the amount of flexible thin blade that can chatter while cutting, and it fits in a normal #1 tool holder.

Some other indexible parting tools just slide the carbide insert in, relying on cutting pressure to hold it in place.  I have seen a lot of broken holders of that type.

http://www.iscar.com/eCatalog/Family.aspx?fnum=557&mapp=TG&GFSTYP=M







You can find the holders on Ebay for $40 or so, and inserts for $3-4 each.


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