# Lathe spindle build



## gnerdalot (Jan 21, 2013)

I have had "lathe definciency syndrome" for about 5 years now.  It started a few years back when we were broke and I needed to make a 1x2x2 sized bushing for my truck.  I used hockey pucks and a hole saw and was frustrated I did not have a proper lathe.  Since then a few times I've needed a lathe, but not enough to justify buying one (nor the space for it). 

However this got me thinking - the business end of a mill or a Lathe is a spinny thingy - lets see what I can make..

Might end up buying one, but for now its fun to build.

Disclaimer: I am gonna see how far I can go (or am willing to go) on this build.  So please pardon me now if the ending is anti-climactic and is simply "I went to Harbor Freight and bought a mini-lathe".

The current plan is to resolve dependencies - in the spirit of the Gingery lathe, but with hardware store parts, on the deck of an apartment, and in compliance with local fire laws (no smelting/foundry on the deck, etc) - also so I don't set a fire or get kicked out.    

* start with 7/8 bolt from HD supply in Sunnyvale (place is awesome - best supply store I have ever seen). The bolt is exactly 22.00mm, with 3 nuts and 5 washers was $4 bucks. Spindles are plentiful and cheap (yay).
* 22x50x14 bearings (sealed=easy).   I have a roller 22mm ID bearing - might get that in later, but its not sealed. 
* mount into 13mm thick aluminum plate
* mount spindle that to something
* spin with the drill press + 90degree adapter.
* use VCR head as the first chuck, or if I find something else suitable as a "bolt to it spin-it thingy".
* first cutter will be a K68 (amongst all the bits on the aluminum plate I got from Alan Steel in Redwood City).




Boot strap this to build the chuck and then from there "resolve dependencies".  I work in IT - so used to "well to get E working, we need A to get B, to get C, to get D, then E.  However once you have E, the task you are working on becomes trivial."

* mount spindle to 2x4 or oak board I have.
* get it spinning
* drill a hole in the bolt (threaded end) for a smaller bolt. This could also hold a chuck for drilling the tailstock.
* mount the K68 on something, put in sliding vise and chamfer off the bolt.
* Center the VCR head on a 7/8" nut and screw that onto the nut.
* thread the 4 holes on the "VCR" chuck and make some kind of holders (any ideas?).


Here is the rough concept.




Being bandsawless (and cheap) also, opted to take the hard way to cut 13mm plate aluminum. and use a drill to remove most of the material - I tried a 2" saw blade, but that was taking a long time, scary, and too small for the work.  Drill press - slow and steady.  Once all the holes were drilled, hack saw a couple minutes to cut through the ribs and plate came apart.  Did you know Harbor Freight sells a mini-bandsaw for $85 bucks?  I know now.




I expect to work on this mostly on weekends, so could be slow..


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## ScubaSteve (Jan 21, 2013)

Subscribed! I thought about doing the same thing with 2 pillow block bearings and stainless steel shaft. 

Could be useful for polishing, welding tube, grinding, etc. when you don't want to ruin your good lathe and don't require extreme accuracy.


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## FarFar (Jan 21, 2013)

Very interesting and fundamental,but I always think of auto junk yards when I try to imagine paradise.
Would a Wheel bearing/housing or a gearbox not be a better bet?

Regards

farfar


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## Richardvonmann (Jan 21, 2013)

It will be interesting to see where this goes, what caught my attention was the drill press, lay it on its side, and presto, whole lathe head, add a chunk of steel some how to the thing and use your cross slide vise, to catch centers might be a little challanging?

I actually used a drill press years ago vertically to machine parts, not exactly any where perfect, but do-able.
Not that I know McGiver personally...lol

Only one question?
Is there any damsels in distress involved?


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## gnerdalot (Jan 23, 2013)

Richardvonmann said:


> It will be interesting to see where this goes, what caught my attention was the drill press, lay it on its side, and presto, whole lathe head, add a chunk of steel some how to the thing and use your cross slide vise, to catch centers might be a little challanging?
> 
> I actually used a drill press years ago vertically to machine parts, not exactly any where perfect, but do-able.
> Not that I know McGiver personally...lol
> ...



RE the drill press - have thought about that - will see where it goes.  Catching centers - I am looking at Gingery builds around the net to see how to 
best do that. 

RE damsels - just the wife - distressed when I lose track of time (it's so bad.. now I understand why she loses track of time in stores..) )


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## gnerdalot (Jan 28, 2013)

*some progress the past week..*

Made a ton of progress this week - mostly material acquisition..

* How to cut aluminum with drill bits and a hack saw.  Drill though, then across.  With a 1/8 drill bit and my sliding vice, it was drill, crank one full turn, drill, crank - it was braindead and quiet.   The hacksaw finishes the cut in about 2 minutes. I actually like the look on this cut. I might wire wheel to remove the sharps and leave it be.




* Craiglist - 2 treadmill motors with controllers.  2.9HP, 8000RPM.  Sold 3 un-used kettle bells to fund these.  With the adjustable pots they can go in a 60:1 range - say 60-3600 RPM, or 133-8000 RPM.



* HSS tooling - found a $5 toolset at HF - will use for making boring bars.  Really boring bars.  No logo, markings, stampings or anything.



* Gingery "The Metal Lathe" (he spent 25 years working on the lathe design - why re-invent the [ Gingery lathe ]?)



* Started on shopping cart of parts at onlinemetals.com based on what is in the Gingery book.

* Learned that the B16 drill press taper is no match for the side forces imposed by milling.  :nono: That left a mark on the work.
Glad I had the support in place else the chuck would have flown.  Yes I was wearing safety glasses.  The support was built from mostly garbage (plywood and roller blade bearings.  The bearings I read online how to re-pack, found these had removable shields - so cleaned out and repacked. The bearings were very worn and have some wobble, but work great for this purpose.



Measured the run out on the hardware store bolt - 1mil at the spot where the lathe plate will mount.



And the result so far - it fits and the hole is slightly tapered, so the bearing drops in then needs a vice to press it all the way in.
I might use this assembly as is (bolt down to 2x4 to cut the bearing hold on other piece of aluminum.  The work on the drill press is choppy and nerve racking.  All that drill press flex and noise and banging - what a racket! The bits I used for this are wood working router bits from HF.  The drill press bearings took a a beating for sure. I do have a "union butterfield" 4 flute roughing bit (3/8 shank) coming tomorrow - will test on that.

BTW Anyone familiar with union butterfield? -I found no reviews on their stuff in other forums...





A couple jobs ago I had access to a full machine shop with a bridgeport and other real equipment - anytime I needed something, could go over and bend, cut, mill, drill, bandsaw, grind, whatever whenever.  I am pretty sure the machinist there would cringe if he saw how I (ab)used my drill press the past few days.


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## joe_m (Jan 28, 2013)

Keep it up and eventually you'll have a lathe. But if you get too fed up along the way I have most of the headstock from a Craftsman/Atlas 6" to include the spindle. I'd be willing to sell cheap or trade for ???.

Joe


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## ScubaSteve (Jan 29, 2013)

Ever consider running the lathe from one of the motors? Direct drive?


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## gnerdalot (Jan 30, 2013)

joe_m said:


> Keep it up and eventually you'll have a lathe. But if you get too fed up along the way I have most of the headstock from a Craftsman/Atlas 6" to include the spindle. I'd be willing to sell cheap or trade for ???.
> 
> Joe



Thanks for the encouragement Joe - this is a patience tester for me also - most other home projects have a shorter scope. This one has been a lesson so far in balancing this with time with wife, kids, church and friends.

As for the spindle - will keep in mind - and will let the wife know.  :whistle:


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## gnerdalot (Jan 30, 2013)

ScubaSteve said:


> Ever consider running the lathe from one of the motors? Direct drive?



After seeing the drill press jump around from milling, my concern is the forces of a direct drive on the motor bearings.
I did look at various couplings the other day to see what could isolate axial and radial forces from the motor, but then also thought
folding the motor under/behind/over the spindle will save space.  Might still look into it - certainly appealing given the compactness 
that could happen if it was direct drive..

In that case, could use a wheel hub instead and then isolate some how.


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## gnerdalot (Feb 5, 2013)

This past week is scouring for supplies and after looking at some Taig - thinking I can make this a mill/lathe combo..

The spindle could slide (or lock) on the bed - that bed would be the column when tipped into the tailstock/knee.

Any thoughts on this?

I am looking at using online metal supplier so they can do the cuts and I can drill and assemble.  
Thinking to have 3x2 0.1875 wall steel tube, 24" long as bed, put 3x.025x24" over it as the bed base (dovetail it). Then the tailstock could start out as a "weak knee" that could support raise/lower a table when vertical.

Also - what of using this for a base?  http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/spo/3567216240.html

Or could cut up a weight bench (http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/spo/3585578306.html) and since I need a tubing "L" shape to get started.  I envision cut the bench in half right below where your head goes - and those ends would be the front of the mill.  Where the bar rests would be the back - and bolt the two together for more strength.

I have looked online also and for about $120 could buy a mini-mill base and column - however have the idea that would be a big short
for a lathe bed, and awkwardish, and not as fun.


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