# Improving a plate shear



## hman (Jun 14, 2019)

A couple weeks ago I was at a meeting of Valley Metal, the Phoenix area machinists' club.  I'd mentioned that I was on the way to buy a Pexto stomp shear from a Craigslist seller, but I was concerned about all the floor space it would take up.  The president of the club, Marty Escarcega, suggested that I buy a plate shear instead.  The seller turned out to be busy on a job, so we didn't get together that day.  This gave me time to look at plate shears.  I decided to buy one of them instead of the stomp shear, and phoned the seller to cancel.  Bought a Shop Fox 12" unit (model M1041, $165) from Amazon.

I got the shear in a couple days (Prime!) and used it to complete my current project.  After using it, I decided it needed a couple of improvements.  First off, there's a kinda funky "foot" about 2 1/2" diameter, that's supposedly meant to secure the metal stock and prevent it from shifting during a cut.


The bottom of the foot was slick chrome plating - very little friction or holding power!  In an attempt to increase holding power I chucked it up in the lathe and cut some grooves, then lightly sand blasted the bottom.


No joy.  The bottom wasn't very square with the stem, it was hard to adjust, and there was no real back-stop on the shear.

Plan B was to make a new hold-down, based on a De-Sta-Co #604 clamp (Amazon, $18.60).  This clamp mounts into a thru hole with 3/4-12 threads.  The original mounting post for the foot was a tad less than 1" diameter, so not suitable for 3/4" thread.  Turned a new mounting post from some 1 1/4" diameter stock.  Milled a flat on the large end, then drilled and tapped to suit.  The new foot is a 3/4" wide by 4 1/2" long chunk aluminum.  It's drilled 1/2" most of the way through for a 1/2" rod, which is held in place and with a countersunk screw at the bottom.  The rod, topped with a 5/16-18 stud and wing nut, can rotate inside the foot.  The stud threads into the end of the DeStaCo.  Rotating the wing nut provides height adjustment. 

I then mounted a length of angle iron to the lower shear bolts, to give the foot something to press against.  I also bolted the shear to a pair of 2x6s and added material supports on both sides.  Finally, I added a simple handle at the top of the shear to make it easier to lift from the floor (under a table, where it's stored) to the work bench. 




PS - After shearing sheet metal to size, the next step is naturally to fold it.  Again, trying to save floor space, I opted for a cheap 18" Harbor Freight bending brake (SKU 39103, $45 before discount).  It worked adequately.  My main issue was that, even with good clamps securing the hold-down bar, the bar would shift during a bend.  I took care of that problem as follows - Raised the folding bar all the way, placed a chunk of 1/16" aluminum between folding bar and hold-down bar, secured the hold-down bar, and match drilled through the hold-down and base at both ends for a couple of pins.  I repeated the process with a piece of 1/8" aluminum and a new set of holes.  Now I can positively position the hold-down bar.  Note in the last photo that the brake is screwed down to a couple of 2x4s, which I can clamp in my woodworking vise.  I store the brake on the shelf below when not in use.


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## astjp2 (Jun 14, 2019)

Those are nice shears, they are  generically known as a Beverly Shear, I have the B1 from Beverly.  Harbor Freight used to sell a copy of the Beverly, most who got the chinese one bought the real beverly blades to make them actually work.  Just make sure your blade gap is correct for the thickness of material you are shearing.  Tim


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## markba633csi (Jun 14, 2019)

I've seen that bender, but not the shear- great combo, now I know what to ask Santa for...
M


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## Bob Korves (Jun 14, 2019)

I have that same HF bender, thought I might be throwing money away, but it works OK if you work on appropriate size metals.  I also have mine where it can be stored in a small space and then clamped onto a table for doing work with it.  Works fine for the small amount of sheet bending that I do.


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## brino (Jun 15, 2019)

very nice modifications to the shear.....I may be stealing some of those ideas.
I have the Princess Auto (Canadian harbor freight) version......https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/12-in-metal-hand-shear/A-p8096000e
Thanks for sharing!
-brino


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## hman (Jun 15, 2019)

Looks like the identical shear, just blue paint instead of cream.  Did you notice the ~½" hole in the upper blade, about 4" forward of the pivot?  There's a steel bushing in the casting opposite the blade.  Apparently it's a rebar cutter.


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## brino (Jun 15, 2019)

hman said:


> Apparently it's a rebar cutter.



I had assumed that, based on the description of being capable of cutting 1/2" bar.
I checked the manual, and it had _*nothing *_about that hole.

Interestingly, in one of the question and answers at the site I posted above someone replied that it was for a safety lock to latch it closed. 

I have not used it for bar, but that's what I will use it for.

-brino

EDIT: my favourite use so far is to cut heavy expanded metal sheet. I usually do that with an angle grinder, this was so clean and quiet!


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## brino (Jun 15, 2019)

astjp2 said:


> Just make sure your blade gap is correct for the thickness of material you are shearing.



Hi Tim,

Got any more details on this?
The manual for mine is useless.
I don't see any means of blade gap adjustment!?!?!?

Thanks
-brino


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## hman (Jun 16, 2019)

I can't find anything, either.  But I did run into a what-not-to-do while installing the new hold-down.  I'd had to remove the arm and disassemble the linkage to the blade a couple times while test fine tuning the new mounting post.  Last time I reassembled it, I tightened up all the screws, then backed them off about ¼ turn before tightening the jam nuts.  WRONG!  This pulled the upper blade slightly away from the lower, and the cut was terrible - kind of a folded over edge at the cut line.  Loosened all the bolts except the one that holds the lever to the casting by about 1 full turn, then re-locked the jamnuts.  Cuts correctly now.

As far as I can tell, there should be no gap between the blades.  If you're planning to install a modified hold-down, make careful note of how snug/loose all the bolts are before you disassemble anything.


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## darkzero (Jun 17, 2019)

Nice, I have that same style shear with the same material support but in an 8". But that bender I have never noticed in store while at HF. I do have a small finger brake but now I need one of those! Thanks for helping me spend money.


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## astjp2 (Jun 19, 2019)

This will explain it better than I can: https://www.gasparini.com/en/blog/get-rid-shearing-defects-in-four-steps/

If your gap is too small, it will chip hardened blades.
Here is a pic of a real beverly shear, the one you have uses the same concept and works like a pair of scissors.


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## hman (Jun 19, 2019)

Thanks for the link.  Good info.  So far, I've only cut very thin steel ... so I haven't run into the need to adjust blade clearance.  before replying, I took the time to educate myself about beverly shears.  Neat tools for curved cuts!


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## astjp2 (Jun 19, 2019)

Yeah, the both work on similar concept to a pair of scissors.  When you need to cut sheetmetal, these tools are great as long as you dont try to cut plate.


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## Ken from ontario (Jun 24, 2019)

I had been looking at these 12" hand shears for a couple of years and always thought it might be too flimsy to do anything substantial with it but today saw our Princess Auto (Canada's HF) had them on sale for next to nothing so I ordered one ,then looked around on you tube and it looks like most users consider them as a " very useful" tool.


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## darkzero (Jun 24, 2019)

Ken from ontario said:


> I had been looking at these 12" hand shears for a couple of years and always thought it might be too flimsy to do anything substantial with it but today saw our Princess Auto (Canada's HF) had them on sale for next to nothing so I ordered one ,then looked around on you tube and it looks like most users consider them as a " very useful" tool.



They are very useful, for me anyway. I don't have to room to have one mounted in a permanent location so I purchased a smaller 8" & mounted it on an alumn plate, that way I can just set it on the table & clamp down on the plate, then store it away when not needed.

I really would have liked a genuine Beverly throatless shear but around here they aren't easy to find & sell for big money. This style shear still works great & the import ones are surprisingly good as long as you stay within their rated capacity.


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## Ken from ontario (Jun 25, 2019)

I don't have much room in my shop either but I do have a heavy work table, I am thinking of attaching a piece of angle iron to  one of the legs just a few inches above the floor, then extend the back bracket on the shear so it can go under the angle iron , this way I can anchor the shear to the table so it doesn't lift up when I cut , I'll see if it's workable or manageable, if not I'll have to do what you've done, I like the idea of cutting on the bench rather than on the floor.
BTW, thanks for the pic, I don't know if I've said that before but you have a clean shop.

hman, I enjoyed reading about the modifications you made on the shear, I will definitely add that extension plate/support the first chance I get.


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## stioc (Jun 25, 2019)

Great mods and info.

What's the thickest steel and aluminum sheet/plate you folks have successfully cut with the shears and bent with the bender? Can they handle 16ga steel and 1/8 alum?

Just wondering about the application for myself as I have several ways to cut metal including a plasma cutter and a diy bender I made with some angle iron for my 12ton press.


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## pontiac428 (Jun 25, 2019)

You've got my attention!  And of course, a few questions.  I have plenty of time behind a throatless shear, but not this type.  Can you handle the work in the left hand while working the lever with your right, as with a throatless, or do you need to use that hold-down contraption (nice job by the way) to get straight results?  Next, can you make straight cuts over longer distances than the blade, say 18", and keep the cut looking good over multiple bites?  And last, what's the capacity of the cutter?  I'd hope for at least 16 ga. if not better for smaller pieces.  I'm off to browse Amazon...


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## Winegrower (Jun 25, 2019)

I bought one of these like darkzero shows, and never use it.   If you want a longer cut than the blade length, it wrinkles one half badly.  Perhaps the real Beverly shear would be much better.


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## hman (Sep 20, 2021)

pontiac428 said:


> You've got my attention!  And of course, a few questions.  I have plenty of time behind a throatless shear, but not this type.  Can you handle the work in the left hand while working the lever with your right, as with a throatless, or do you need to use that hold-down contraption (nice job by the way) to get straight results?  Next, can you make straight cuts over longer distances than the blade, say 18", and keep the cut looking good over multiple bites?  And last, what's the capacity of the cutter?  I'd hope for at least 16 ga. if not better for smaller pieces.  I'm off to browse Amazon...


OOPS!  My apologies for not having seen/replied to this post when it first came out.

I've cut lengthy material several times, but it's tricky.  The "offcut" needs to be small enough that it can be bent down and go under the rear frame on which the shearing frame pivots.  In addition, if you're not careful, the "waste end" can push the workpiece away from the intended cut line.  So you may have to force it back into alignment.  If both these conditions are met, the cut will proceed relatively cleanly.  One trick that will help accomplish this is to first make a "rough" cut about 1/4" to 1/2" outboard of the intended cut line, so that during the "money" cut, the offcut material is narrow, and thus easy to bend out of the way.

PS to @Winegrower - You're absolutely right!  Matter of fact, the offcut always gets quite a bend in it, even when cutting short pieces.  It's always best to plan for this stuff to be "waste."


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