# Starrett telescoping gage repair?



## WesPete66 (May 13, 2017)

I have a set of Starrett telescoping gages that were in a tool box I scored at auction. (#S579H, set of six)  One of the gages is missing pieces.  The 2 1/8 - 3 1/2 gage is missing one of its 'anvils', and the spring.  Is there any repairing to this gage? Are parts available, or can it be made?
Also, some of the gages are sticky.  Can I dis-assemble these to clean/lube, or are they better left alone?
Thanks,
Wes


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## Nogoingback (May 13, 2017)

I have no idea about repair, but I recently acquired an older one and cured it's stickiness with a couple of drops of oil.


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## 4GSR (May 13, 2017)

I had a set of these I took on a trip to China.  When I got there, I opened my suit case to unload my stuff, found one of the smaller ones completely taken apart and the spring and jaw missing.  I figured the TSA agent unscrewed the clamp screw and the jaw shot out with the spring and lost it.  The 2-1/8 to 3-1/2 gage was left over in China.  The guys in the shop had never seen a telescoping gage before! 

I know this has nothing to do with this thread, had to share.  Send a email to Starrett.  They may offer replacement parts for your telescoping gage.

Oh, I found a replacement on evilBay to replace mine with.


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## Uglydog (May 13, 2017)

I know a guy who keeps his immersed in a jar of mineral oil.
I not recommending this as good or bad practice.
Regardless, his never get rusty!

Daryl
MN


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## darkzero (May 13, 2017)

The parts are available from Starrett, whether or not it's economical to replace those parts I don't know. http://www.starrett.com/metrology/p...-tools/hole-slot-gages/Telescoping-Gages/229D

They can be found individually on ebay pretty often for cheap. I have a Mitutoyo set & needed to replace one, got a replacement on ebay for less than $10. They're pretty easy to disassemble & reassemble, at least the Mitu ones anyway.


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## 4GSR (May 13, 2017)

darkzero said:


> The parts are available from Starrett, whether or not it's economical to replace those parts I don't know. http://www.starrett.com/metrology/p...-tools/hole-slot-gages/Telescoping-Gages/229D
> 
> They can be found individually on ebay pretty often for cheap. I have a Mitutoyo set & needed to replace one, got a replacement on ebay for less than $10. They're pretty easy to disassemble & reassemble, at least the Mitu ones anyway.


Will, that a 579H he has, not the 229.


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## darkzero (May 13, 2017)

4gsr said:


> I had a set of these I took on a trip to China.....  The guys in the shop had never seen a telescoping gage before!



I saw in a video, I believe it was Stefan, where he said telescoping gages were not popular in his country. Seems like they are mostly used in the US only. Come to think of it, I really only see them being used in N.America.

Not sure of the truth in that but if it is I wonder why?


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## darkzero (May 13, 2017)

4gsr said:


> Will, that a 579H he has, not the 229.



I keep forgetting that Starrett makes different styles for telescoping gages. Thanks for catching that. Either way they still offer replacement parts for the 579 series as well.

http://www.starrett.com/metrology/p...-tools/hole-slot-gages/Telescoping-Gages/579E


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## 4GSR (May 13, 2017)

darkzero said:


> I saw in a video, I believe it was Stefan, where he said telescoping gages were not popular in his country. Seems like they are mostly used in the US only. Come to think of it, I really only see them being used in N.America.
> 
> Not sure of the truth in that but if it is I wonder why?



It could be, the Chinese dug thru their catalogs, all in Chinese, could not find them.  Its funny, they build millions of the Mitutoyo knock offs over the last twenty years.  You would think by now it would have caught on over there.  They were proud to get those Starrett telescoping gages, too.  Best meal ticket I ever got over there!


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## mikey (May 13, 2017)

Starrett is really responsive to repair requests, at least in my experience. I suggest calling about the parts. Last few times I called, they sent the parts I needed for free. This is one of the last great American tool makers and they are struggling. Nevertheless, they have stood behind their products over the years and I wish them well.


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## Rustrp (May 13, 2017)

4gsr said:


> The guys in the shop had never seen a telescoping gage before!


It's my guess the TSA fumbler hadn't either.


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## mikey (May 13, 2017)

Just as a matter of interest, I bought a "used" set of Yuasa telescoping gages on ebay a few weeks ago for less than $40.00, shipped. When I got them, they were brand new except for some smudges on the plastic storage case. I compared them to my Mitutoyo telescoping gages and they are identical. Every nuance of each gage is exactly the same, including the feel of the spring and that nice feel when you tighten a Mit gage. Other than the color, even the case and the printing is exactly the same.

So, Yuasa and Mit gages are probably made by the same factory and branded appropriately. Just a heads up when searching for these things.


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## WesPete66 (May 13, 2017)

Thanks for all the replies!     I didn't even think to look for a website, since it's usually lost time these days to look for parts. Their site is pretty impressive though!
All things considered I think I will wait and try to score a buy on a replacement gage. (On removing the handle from the gage, there is a little plunger & sleeve in there that has gotten kind of mushroomed..)  Thanks again!
Wes


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## Bob Korves (May 13, 2017)

Be careful not to over tighten the screw that locks the plunger.  It will ruin the gage, making it rough and sticky from the over tightening.  Only use enough tension to hold the plunger from slipping.  I have bought a couple used ones that way.  Sometimes the defect is very slight and it can be fixed by sliding the plunger in and out MANY times under light lock screw pressure to work the surfaces back to smooth.  Keep the telescope gages lubricated well enough that they will not get rust inside them, which will also ruin them.  They need to work silky smooth...


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## EmilioG (May 14, 2017)

I agree, call Starrett or email. They've been very kind and helpful over the years.
One Christmas, Starrett sent me a new set of tool makers buttons, free, after I inquired about them.
I've also gotten a few small parts, some free of charge. 
Sometimes it takes them two weeks or so to get back to you. but they always do.

The Starrett telescoping gages are the best I've seen., but you must be careful and not strip the fine threads.  Parts are available, but it may be cheaper to buy
the individual gage.  I keep my sets lubricated with Starrett M1 or SuperLube.  I bought my Starrett set for $60 in brand new condition., Ebay.


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## Rustrp (May 14, 2017)

A question I have regarding the concensus the US is the predominate user of the telescoping gauge; What does the rest of the world do for I.D. measurements?


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## 4GSR (May 14, 2017)

I know the Chinese don't use them. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


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## EmilioG (May 14, 2017)

Bore mic gages, like the Etalons or Mitutoyo are one of the best ways to measure a bore.
The Etalon InGage bore mics look very good but expensive.


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## darkzero (May 14, 2017)

Rustrp said:


> A question I have regarding the concensus the US is the predominate user of the telescoping gauge; What does the rest of the world do for I.D. measurements?



They use ID mics. Bore mics too but they are expensive & the average hobbyist don't own them. Funny cause I do have an ID mic but I never use it, I just use the snap gages.


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## kd4gij (May 14, 2017)

For anything over 1 1/2" I prefer to use a bore mic.


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## mikey (May 14, 2017)

Bore gauges and internal micrometers - good stuff but a pain to use when the work is in the lathe. Mill use is not as much of a pain IF you have enough room in Z but it takes some time. Gave both my Alina bore gauge and Mitutoyo internal mics away and don't miss them but if I had to show that I used a certified gauge then yes, I would have them still.

Inside micrometers are good for boring when tolerances are in the thousandths and are really fast to use. When the work is in the machine and tolerances are in the tenths, I pull out the telescoping gauges. 

Reading a bore takes good technique with reliable instruments. Boring precisely is an entirely different matter.


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## electrosteam (May 15, 2017)

Telescoping gauges are common in eastern Australia.
John


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## CluelessNewB (May 15, 2017)

Doubleboost in the UK uses one in this video (near the end at about 23 minutes)


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## EmilioG (May 15, 2017)

Using these telescoping gages to measure a bore and then reading it on a mic takes a little practice.
I bought a few ring gages to work out my technique after discussing it with Mikey and sure enough,
it's a bit tricky.


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## Rustrp (May 15, 2017)

darkzero said:


> They use ID mics. Bore mics too but they are expensive & the average hobbyist don't own them. Funny cause I do have an ID mic but I never use it, I just use the snap gages.



I understand the ID mics and bore mics but I got the impression from some of the comments that the telescoping gauge was used much less in other countries. Maybe this was just opinion.


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## mikey (May 15, 2017)

EmilioG said:


> Using these telescoping gages to measure a bore and then reading it on a mic takes a little practice.
> I bought a few ring gages to work out my technique after discussing it with Mikey and sure enough,
> it's a bit tricky.



Not tricky if you have a micrometer stand!


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## darkzero (May 15, 2017)

mikey said:


> Not tricky if you have a micrometer stand!



That's cheating! I don't use my micrometer stand for that but it is very useful. Speaking of which, the HF micrometer is pretty damn nice for the money. 

I purchased it years ago cause I needed it right away withbthe intent to get a better one later. Well that never happened cause I'm pretty happy with it.


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## darkzero (May 15, 2017)

Rustrp said:


> I understand the ID mics and bore mics but I got the impression from some of the comments that the telescoping gauge was used much less in other countries. Maybe this was just opinion.



Yeah, maybe so. As I mentioned and aside from Ken & China, I just heard one person saying they were not popular (in Germany). Maybe only not common in most or some countries that use metric? I have no idea.


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## Bob Korves (May 15, 2017)

The technique that works for me is first having the gage set to the proper tightness, just tight enough to keep from losing the setting while transferring the reading to the micrometer.  Next, the gage is introduced to the bore from the most comfortable approach possible, fixed or larger side of gage against bottom or close side of hole, inner plunger at top of hole, gage dead vertical in bore.  Rock the gage gently as the upper (inner) plunger makes contact with the bore so they become 180 degrees apart in the bore.  Then, carefully and smoothly swing the handle downward with the handle kept in the plane created by the sweeping upper plunger.  Everything must promote the gage exactly bisecting the bore.  Then comes the reading of the gage against the mic, which must be in the middle of both anvils at once, with just a small patch of anvil giving a light but consistent drag, more like a "nick" than a slide.  If a stronger drag occurs, start over, the setting may have slipped.  I hold the larger plunger against the fixed anvil of the mic.  Testing with a ring gage like Emilio was doing is a good idea, but deeper cylinders must be learned as well, and it must be practiced on the mill and on the lathe and in other more difficult positions.  If it does not feel perfect sweeping the bore, do not even attempt to measure it, do it over.  If I cannot comfortably gage the hole with the gage vertical, which is sometimes unavoidable, getting good results becomes more iffy.  Achieving a comfortable position at some point takes over from insisting on vertical.  Bottom line: practice, practice, practice, and find out what works best for you.


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## Bob Korves (May 15, 2017)

Especially at first, until you get repeatable results that give confidence, measure multiple times, not for an average, but for consistent results to within a couple tenths.  Do not look at the mic dial until you are done measuring.  It is very easy to get outlier results while starting out, later on you will be able to predict them at times.


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## mikey (May 15, 2017)

darkzero said:


> That's cheating! I don't use my micrometer stand for that but it is very useful. Speaking of which, the HF micrometer is pretty damn nice for the money.
> 
> I purchased it years ago cause I needed it right away withbthe intent to get a better one later. Well that never happened cause I'm pretty happy with it.




Yup, I cheat! I think its the perfect use for a stand. Maybe its because I don't like to over-tighten my telescoping gauges and I need a light touch to read them accurately. I cannot hold the telescoping gauge and spin the mic barrel and get the gauge in the center of the anvils and just touch the anvils to the gauge without something moving or potentially moving. A stand makes this a simple job. My mics read a telescoping gauge very accurately when the anvils juuuust touch; any more than just touch and you run the risk of the gauge collapsing a tiny bit.

I can set a telescoping gauge in a ring gauge and read the exact ring ID this way. I hone my telescoping gauge technique with the ring gauge before every boring session so I know my skills are up to the task. Then I can bore. For me, it's stupid to have to bore a piece all over again because I was too lazy to pull out the stand.

Oh, as for ring gauges, how do you know that your technique is accurate if you don't have a standard? Telescoping gauges can read in the tenths but at that resolution your technique matters - a lot. If you want to know if you're using the gauge properly, like Bob mentioned above, then you need a way to verify it, right? That standard is a ring gauge calibrated in tenths if that is the resolution you're working to. It will also tell you if you're moving the arm of the gauge because you're not using a mic stand or at least a padded vise.

So, yeah, I cheat but I usually only have to bore a piece once.


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## Rustrp (May 15, 2017)

Bob Korves said:


> Especially at first, until you get repeatable results that give confidence, measure multiple times, not for an average, but for consistent results to within a couple tenths.  Do not look at the mic dial until you are done measuring.  It is very easy to get outlier results while starting out, later on you will be able to predict them at times.


Very good points on the telescoping gage, especially attention to the fixed points and where to place them. Although sounding redundant, this same measure of being comfortable applies to all the measuring tools, especially those requiring a little finesse.


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