# Grizzly G0602/G0752 Spindle replacement



## WarrenP (Feb 25, 2018)

Hi Everyone, Im hoping someone can answer me on how to remove the spindle on my G0752 Lathe. I have removed the nuts, gears, etc on the left side of the lathe. It looks like the spindle should just push out the other side but it is pretty much stuck. I didn't want to force it without checking with someone who knows. Can I tap it out using a block of wood and a hammer or is there something I am missing? Also, when reinstalling is there a certain procedure on how tight I should tighten the nuts so there is the right amount of load on the bearings or is no play enough? Thank you very much for any answers I receive. Warren


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## fitterman1 (Feb 25, 2018)

Have your chuck off.
And locknuts and gear also.
Using a soft hammer tap the outboard end towards the tailstock.
There will be a large washer that will come off easily and then the tapered roller that should drop out first.
Bear in mind that the tapered roller brg may be difficult to move as the interference maybe excessive.
You may need to use a bit of force but dont go berserk.
You might consider using a wooden buffer between hammer and spindle to prevent damage.
Protect your ways so nothing can damage them.
The chuck end brg will need to be pressed off and on again (get the best you can afford).
The outboard brg should be a firm sliding fit upon reassembly as this one allows adjustments.
The inboard should have about 1 to 2 thou interference.
Use a quality brg grease and pack the tapers about 2/3rds full.
Adjustment should be so there's no measurable clearance and tending towards minimum preload.
Make sure there's no casting sand in your headstock too.
Cheers Alby


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## fitterman1 (Feb 25, 2018)

Getting the cones out is another matter.
You'll need a long pin punch and light hammer to tap them out.
Work the punch around so the cones come out square.
I filed two grooves opposite each other for each brg seat for future access as I found them difficult to remove initially.
Cheers Alby


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## markba633csi (Feb 25, 2018)

I think Alby means "races"- Here in the states "cones" are what we call the part with the rollers.  The ring part of the bearing they ride in are called "races"
Just so there's no confusion
Mark


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## WarrenP (Feb 25, 2018)

Thank you for you reply, both of you. OK, sounds like I just need to tap out the spindle and then I might need to tap out the bearings also ( tapping them out straight). You say to use the best bearings I can afford, I was planning on getting the originals from Grizzly... do you have a better idea? Also, what type of grease do you recommend? I wasn't sure if I needed to pack them with grease or just let the oil lubricate them that I put in the oil ways. Warren


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## fitterman1 (Feb 26, 2018)

Hi Warren, sorry about any confusion.
I can't remember the brg numbers but I got FAG brgs online from Germany.
Maybe you can post inner race dia and outer race diameter and someone will be able to come up with some numbers. I'm on the farm atm and my brg books are at home 50km away. Any quality brg manufacturers like Timken,Skf,FAG etc would be fine. I reckon I paid about a AU$100 for mine.
I dont know what Grizzly stock so realistically can't comment.
I use a lg2 brg grease by skf.
I wouldn't use oil in the brgs as taper roller brgs act like a pump and push the oil out to the biggest diameter of their race. They do it with grease also but not so severely.
Use a way oil or hydraulic oil for your ways.
Cheers Alby


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## fitterman1 (Feb 26, 2018)

I started a thread on this site last year on the 602 that I haven't been able to get back to. It's called "my g0602 my way" see if you can locate it and have a read, it details most of the work I've done to make it better although its not finished. Hopefully you can use it to avoid the pitfalls I encountered.
Don't forget cleanliness is paramount when playing with brgs.
Cheers Alby


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## markba633csi (Feb 26, 2018)

Hi Warren- most bearings have standard numbers, made by many manufacturers.  Good bearings are worth the extra money, but they must be installed carefully; and in a clean environment. 
Have you determined that you truly need new bearings?  Are they showing excessive runout, noisy or rough? 
Mark


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## WarrenP (Feb 26, 2018)

Hi markba633csi... ( looks like your pretty close to me) Yes, the chuck side bearing is squeeking and it is running a little rough now.. my fault actually. I let the carriage get to close to the chuck and the chuck hit the carriage while running. afterwards it ran a little rough and within a day or two started squeeking. when I put more oil in the ball oiler the squeeking got a little better. I removed the spindle now , I just need to press off the one bearing and replace.. after I obtain the new ones. I figure I should just buy both and replace them both at the same time. I have replaced wheel bearings for cars in the past so I should know the basics, but then you just asked for the one for the car and they gave it to you. On the lathe im not sure of which one to get unless I just order from grizzly's part catalog for the G0752 lathe. Although if theirs are a rather cheaper one I would like to get a better set but not sure on how to find the correct one, etc.


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## WarrenP (Feb 26, 2018)

fittterman1, By the way, I tried to find your post "my g0602 my way"...but couldn't come up with it here. Will try some more. Correction, I just found it , its called "my workman (g0602) my way". Wow, your definitely finding a lot to do on your lathe. I need to find those bearings and your problem with the tailstock quill moving is something I need to look at too, it is annoying.


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## WarrenP (Feb 26, 2018)

I measured the inner and outer races. This is with the 2 pieces put together, so the smaller inner race is 1.870 inches which is equal to 47.498mm and the outside (largest diameter with the 2 pieces together) race is 2.953 inches, or 75.00 mm. Using my calipers, the best I can come up with its hopefully close enough to tell, if not let me know. I can check again. Seems the inner race measurement doesn't look right but that's what I get.


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## fitterman1 (Feb 26, 2018)

WarrenP said:


> fittterman1, By the way, I tried to find your post "my g0602 my way"...but couldn't come up with it here. Will try some more. Correction, I just found it , its called "my workman (g0602) my way". Wow, your definitely finding a lot to do on your lathe. I need to find those bearings and your problem with the tailstock quill moving is something I need to look at too, it is annoying.


Time spent on the lathe is roughly 2 yrs on and off, mostly off.
I'm in the process of shifting to a farm so lots of things are on hold atm, while we organise ourselves.

If you say you pranged the saddle into the chuck, I would consider an alignment check while you're at it.
Cheers Alby


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## WarrenP (Feb 26, 2018)

Thanks fitterman1, good luck on your move... If anyone knows who has the bearings for the G0602/G0752 please let me know, otherwise I will have to get them from grizzly which although probably ok, if I can get some better ones it would be great while it is apart. After I get the spindle back in I will check on the head stock alignment. Does anyone know the best way to check headstock alignment? Thanks all for your time helping me on this. Warren


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## metalchiper (Feb 27, 2018)

I believe you can take the gears to a supply house that sells bearings they can measure and make sure you get one the same size and of good quality. i haven't bought bearings in a long time but purchased them from a company called bearings inc. it was in Pasco Washington. there have to be other companies that specialize in bearings if you live anywhere near a large city. quality is cheap compared to the pain in a butt it is to change bearings once will be enough that you won't want to do it again.


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## FOMOGO (Feb 27, 2018)

Make sure to check that your spindle is straight before installing your new bearings. Did you check the run out before taking it apart? Hope it all goes smoothly. Mike


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## WarrenP (Feb 27, 2018)

No of course I didnt think to check the runout before taking it apart, I need to kick myself. Is there a way I can check to see if it is straight now, or would I need to have a machine shop check it?


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## WarrenP (Feb 27, 2018)

Metalchipper, I found a bearing place not far from here, planning on taking one of the bearings there . Hopefully they can match it. I think they have TIN bearings there. Thanks for the post. Anyone, if anything I should know or mention to the store guy let me know, please.
....and fomogo, you made me nervous. It looks like I should order a new spindle from grizzly... I dont want to take a chance and have it not quite right after installing new bearings etc. Also, I seem to have noticed  the lathe seemed a tiny bit out of balance after. This way all should be good when done. Thanks all for your input. If I have a question I will add to this I spose. Warren


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## metalchiper (Feb 27, 2018)

i think i would play it safe and replace anything that is even the least bit suspicious. Personally i would hate to do the job more than once ( actually i would hate to do it once ) my Grizzly 0602 has been modified with a new 220 3 phase motor and a phase converter now i dont begin to know exactly what was done i did the machining on the new motor mount and almost all the putting it together. I have a good friend who owned a electrical contracting company who did all the electrical. he had me do all the rest so i would learn a bit. i now have speed control from 35 rpm to 2400. i still have to change gears but have a lot large range of speed with each setting. i needed the lower rpm so i could thread rifle barrels.


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## WarrenP (Feb 27, 2018)

Nice, 35 rpm is pretty low... That's why I got the G0752 model for the easy changing of speeds with a dial instead of changing a belt for every little difference I might want. Yea, I agree I would rather change anything that might be bad now instead of fooling with it over and over. I guess this will teach me to check everything before I do something on it. Im glad FOMOCO mentioned it, I was taking it for granted the spindle was probably good. Gonna order it tonight and by Saturday get to that bearing shop to hopefully get the new bearings. Then I will be set to get it back together. I hate having it apart and not being able to use it when I want.  : ) Only good thing is im always curious on how they build different things and this way I learn about it, but getting to expensive this way.


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## jwmelvin (Feb 27, 2018)

Looking forward to your progress Warren. I just bought a used G0602 last night.


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## WarrenP (Feb 27, 2018)

That's cool jwmelvin, Im definitely not an expert but I think they are nice lathes, there are definitely lots out there better but they cost a lot more too. It seems if something isn't up to par on these you can always do an upgrade and improve them alot.  Great for hobbyists. Thanks for your interest, I will keep everyone informed on what happens here. Keep your fingers crossed..


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## metalchiper (Feb 28, 2018)

WarrenP said:


> Nice, 35 rpm is pretty low... That's why I got the G0752 model for the easy changing of speeds with a dial instead of changing a belt for every little difference I might want. Yea, I agree I would rather change anything that might be bad now instead of fooling with it over and over. I guess this will teach me to check everything before I do something on it. Im glad FOMOCO mentioned it, I was taking it for granted the spindle was probably good. Gonna order it tonight and by Saturday get to that bearing shop to hopefully get the new bearings. Then I will be set to get it back together. I hate having it apart and not being able to use it when I want.  : ) Only good thing is im always curious on how they build different things and this way I learn about it, but getting to expensive this way.



yes, 35 rpm is so slow I could fall asleep before i need to move the half nut. i can say for sure the 150 rpm that is the slowest it went prior to having the new motor and controller added was just to fast for threading. i have done it but i prefer about half that speed. I have never crashed my machine and sure dont want to. now if i can just get the damn dro added to my mill i will be set for a while.  keep us informed about your change of bearings.


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## WarrenP (Feb 28, 2018)

Well, I went to a bearing store today with an old bearing. The guy went back to look for one but they were out of it.They usually keep it in stock but were out. He is ordering 2 for me , should get tomorrow or friday. They will be  TimKin Bearings. Hopefully can install this weekend and see how it all works.


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## jwmelvin (Feb 28, 2018)

WarrenP said:


> They will be  TimKin Bearings.


Good stuff. Let us know the bearing numbers when you know them?


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## WarrenP (Feb 28, 2018)

Yes, I will be glad to post them here. It should make it easier for the next person to find the correct bearings and then they can order through the net if they don't have a Bearing store near them. Will post as soon as I know them. Warren


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## WarrenP (Mar 3, 2018)

Unfortunately because of the bad weather in the mountains (snow, etc) the bearing company didn't get their delivery on Friday.. I will have to wait until Monday for the bearings. Hopefully ]I can get time from work to pick them up Monday. Regarding the bearing part numbers, it seems the number is 32009 for the different manufacturers but each one puts a different extension on the end.. ie 32009/P6 etc. If anyone looks for this nearing you should be able to do a search on the 32009 number and you will get the right size bearing, from there they may have a coupe different extensions Which would be a different class of bearing. Any 32009 bearing should work. I have found different 32009 bearings on the net, all of which were the same size. At any rate I will let you know what numbers of the ones I receive are when I get them. Warren


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## metalchiper (Mar 4, 2018)

very wise to purchase quality bearings.  replacing them once is going to be all the work you want to do.


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## WarrenP (Mar 4, 2018)

metalchiper said:


> very wise to purchase quality bearings.  replacing them once is going to be all the work you want to do.



Yes, I agree . I sure don't want to go through this again if I can help it. Thanks for your help on this.


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## WarrenP (Mar 5, 2018)

I picked up my Timken bearings today, for anyone interested the part number is 32009X. I will be installing them very soon, hopefully starting tomorrow after work. Will keep you updated on how it goes. I plan on pressing them on tomorrow but I need to get a 2 inch outer diameter pipe with 1/8 inch thickness so it will put the pressure on the inside of the bearing and not any pressure on the roller bearings themselves. That way it is safer for the bearing, would not like to put pressure on the wrong place and mess up the bearings. They might be able to take it but I don't want to take a chance.


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## WarrenP (Mar 7, 2018)

OK, today I bought a piece of abs 2 inch pipe and cut it and used hose clamps to squeeze it down to the right size so when I tapped in the bearing it would only put pressure on the inside race of the bearing. I got the outboard one on then put it in the headstock and blocked the chuck side of the spindle so I could "tap" the left side bearing on. I got it close to where it should be, still needs to go another apprx 1/4 inch. I am thinking I can press it the rest of the way by turning the nut on the end until it is in place. Hope this way sounds like the correct way to anyone that knows about it. Was the best way I could think of doing it.  Any suggestions, comments feel free to let me know. Am hoping to get it tightened down correctly tomorrow and all together... we will find out I guess. Then after it is all in and seems like its working well I will check the spindle runout, head stock alignment and then headstock to tail stock alignment. Keep your fingers crossed for me.


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## WarrenP (Mar 10, 2018)

So, the odyssey continues... I got the Bearings in put all gears etc back on. I was breaking the bearings in and I could hear slight clunking sound every once in a while. I took off the pulleys and all again then tapped in the left side bearing making sure it seemed all the way in and maybe a bit of preload on it. After putting it back together the noise had stopped so I assume the bearings just needed to be a little bit tighter. The spindle runout seems good, less than a half a thousands. I put a piece of 3/5 inch tool steel in the chuck and measured from one end to the other with my gauge on the carriage which showed me the head stock seems a bit off. Over about 8 inches it has a variance of about 4 thousands of an inch. So, it looks like im going to need to loosen the headstock and get that adjusted. sounds like it will be fun loosening the headstock to adjust. This was with my 3 jaw chuck so just to be sure, even though it will probably still be off, I am going to try the test with my 4 jaw chuck. After that gets adjusted I will need to adjust my tail stock too I presume. I will let you know how it all works out.  Warren


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## WarrenP (Mar 10, 2018)

I have a question, hopefully someone can help me. I am not sure the test bar I am using is perfectly straight. I used tool steel and center drilled it and the steel is supposed to be within .0005 accurate, but I it seems like it may not be exactly straight. Can anyone tell me a way I can test it to see? Or maybe I should just order one from ebay that should be good within 1 micron. They seem to come from india, has anyone gotton any of these and know they are accurate? Thanks for your input. Warren


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## Mitch Alsup (Mar 11, 2018)




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## WarrenP (Mar 11, 2018)

Thank You Mitch, That is pretty much the way I am checking the spindle. It did give me a couple tips though. Actually my question though was about knowing if my test mandrel is straight or not. I think I am going to order one over Ebay to make sure. I want this as close as possible so there are no problems later when working with the lathe. Thanks, again. Warren


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## Mystery1 (Mar 11, 2018)

If you search for Rollie's Dad's Method and apply it you will find that a straight bar is not mandatory for success.


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## Aukai (Mar 12, 2018)

If you are talking about seating the bearing race, do not use the bearing it's self to seat the race by tightening. I'm not sure my perception of what your doing is right. If it is the race you can use a brass, or steel punch, and hammer, and tap in a cross ways manner. Hit one side cross over, and go around in a circle like that until you hear the race seat. there will be a change in the note when its seated solid. I think that is what your doing.....


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## WarrenP (Mar 12, 2018)

Aukai, Yes that is what I did for the race...Thank you. I was saying after it was all together I heard a little bearing noise when running the lathe. I tightened the pressure on the bearings a little and then the noise went away.


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## WarrenP (Mar 25, 2018)

OK, I am wanting to adjust the headstock on the G0752. Was wondering , has anyone done this on the G0752/G0602 ? I was able to loosen the 2 bolts in the front under the control panel but in the back I can only get to one bolt without having to take out all the electronics, etc that is in the back above the motor. Is this the way I have to do it? , and If so do I just loosen those 4 bolts and tap the headstock until I get the spindle straight? , will it be able to move then or is it non adjustable? If non adjustable how would I get the spindle aligned with the ways? I know some lathes have an adjusting screw but this doesnt have that. Thanks for any answers. Warren


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## WarrenP (Mar 30, 2018)

Well, since no one answered, (i assume no one has done this that read the question) my question about how to adjust the headstock on my G0752/G0602 lathe I emailed Grizzly about it so I thought  I would quote them here for anyone that might wonder about it. Pretty simple procedure except for having to remove the electrical panel. Here is what they said in case someone is interested...

    If the spindle taper has less than 0.0005” runout, install the test bar into the spindle taper.  Now,  with the test indicator attached to the cross slide, place the test indicator on the centerline of the workpiece at the front of the lathe, and test from headstock to tailstock to the end length of the test bar.  Then, slightly loosen the fasteners holding the headstock in place and make your adjustments with light taps from a rubber dead blow mallet.  Once you have reach the desired alignment, tighten the fasteners and retest the spindle alignment.

To access the headstock fasteners, you will need to remove the electrical panel from the machine.  You will also need to remove the faceplate from the front of the lathe. 
  Thanks everyone.. Warren


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## The_Apprentice (Mar 30, 2018)

> Well, since no one answered,



One problem, is finding people who have your exact model, and who also have bothered to take the same time and effort as you in order to get accuracy to the state you have is going to be a bit rare 

But thanks for confirming what they told you. On my King I've had to remove a lot more than just the electrical panel to get under all the bolts from the head-stock.

I did see an unorthodox method a while ago, where some Brit (I think) drilled two holes into the ways next to the head-stock, and put in bolts, then jerry-rigged them so he could put threaded pressure agains the head-stock. One bolt for left side, one bolt to right side. Then he adjusted the tension to get concentricity...

I'm not so sure that's a good way to go about it though. If it was, I imagine lathe manufacturers would/should come with pre-drilled holes into the ways, as they could then call this a FEATURE. Sorta like, how hardened ways is a FEATURE by some sellers.


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## WarrenP (Mar 31, 2018)

Actually, yes I realize that probably anyone who read my post probably hasn't done this. That's why I mentioned that in my post. I wasn't trying to complain just stated a fact. And... I thought I could quote what Grizzly said so if anyone else was wondering about doing this there would be something for them to go to. I hope no one thinks I was complaining. Have a good day, Warren.


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## WarrenP (Apr 4, 2018)

Hello Everyone, I finally received my test bar from India. I didnt have much time last night but I checked it out a bit. I noticed while checking it that i can pull on the spindle and the dial indicator seems to move about 2 thousands of an inch back and forth. Is this normal? I was thinking that wouldnt be good for accuracy... Do you think I need to tighten the pressure on the bearings I just replaced to get rid of any movement shown on the indicator? Otherwise it seems good even though it looks like I will need to adjust the headstock. Thanks for anyones time on this.


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## ddickey (Apr 4, 2018)

Can you post a link for the MT4 test bar?
Thanks


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## WarrenP (Apr 4, 2018)

Hi ddickey, Sure its on ebay ... https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Quali...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Anyone think I should tighten up my spindle bearings for the issue I mentioned above, or will that help?


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## The_Apprentice (Apr 4, 2018)

> > I noticed while checking it that i can pull on the spindle and the dial indicator seems to move about 2 thousands of an inch back and forth. Is this normal?



A few weeks ago I was examining the spindle on my King when changing chucks. I did indeed notice quite some play in it when I was attempting to jiggle it around my hands to test for play with the bearings, not too impress either.

However, keep in mind when in operation, the spindle only spins one way, (not back and forth like AC current), and has a constant load on one side only, not jiggled from all sides at once (lets ignore centripetal forces here). I think the effects are much more minimalized than one would think. At least this is my theory until some old-timer posts here and proves otherwise. Then I get to look like an idiot.


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## WarrenP (Apr 4, 2018)

Yes, that could be to a  certain extent... But, I was thinking  what about when you put pressure on your piece of work with your tool as your cutting it, wouldn't that push it a bit making it be "out" more than it really should be and not always the same amount? Doesn't sound to accurate to me... but if this is how all, or most lathe spindles are.. so be it. I guess it can be worked with in that case.


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## The_Apprentice (Apr 5, 2018)

Ok, if we really want to get technical here, your issue is even worse than stated. Reason being is there is a lot of flex going on, the cross slide itself has some give, even your toolbit itself has some flex (which often can impact your finish). In fact, even they ways themselves will flex and buckle during operation (you don't see it with your eyes).

The problem is rigidty, rigidity, rigidity. And is one of the reasons it is so dangerous to do a parting-off operation with a mini-lathe.

Each lathe has a different amount of flex when cutting, and even the same model will be out of tolerance to one another, simply due to difference in tightness of gib strips, length of toolbit, and other factors.

Here is the good news though, it doesn't matter too much once you've got the FIRST turning cut done. One thing all lathes have in common, is turning your dial 1/4'th of a mm for example, should advance the cut exactly that amount in comparison to the other cut previously. It doesn't matter how much give/flex there was previously. Each notch turn on the dial should be consistent in COMPARISON to the previous operation. This is because you are using the same machine and set-up. 

Does this make more sense?


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## jwmelvin (Apr 5, 2018)

WarrenP said:


> I noticed while checking it that i can pull on the spindle and the dial indicator seems to move about 2 thousands of an inch back and forth. Is this normal?


Are you talking about axial or radial motion? If axial, that seems to indicate a need for increased preload on the bearings, as the structure should be quite stiff in that direction. 

Is there hysteresis in the motion? As in, does the resting position depend on the direction of the last-applied force? That would indicate a gap instead of just compliance, and would support a need for increasing preload.


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## WarrenP (Apr 5, 2018)

Apprentice, thanks for the response, I do understand about the lathe needing to be very rigid , etc for perfectly accurate cuts. Thing is if the whole lathe did not flex at all ( I know they all do some   ) then with the spindle moving side to side, or top to bottom you wouldnt get accurate cuts because it would move with the pressure of the tool against the work seems it would make a taper cut... furthermore it would move differently with different pressure. I can work with the material flexing when the tool is puttng pressure on it, that seems workable but seems if the spindle changes just by pulling or pushing a bit on it that would be hard to compensate for. Anyway, just trying to find out if all spindles do this or if trying to preload the bearings more might make it less of a movement of the spindle..

Jwmelvin, Thanks for your response also, it seems to move sideways back and forth and probably up and down too if you push or pull on the spindle a bit.  Dont really have to push hard but it seems to be no more than 2 thousands of movement. Was thinking of trying more preload only I didnt want to put to much either. I will need to check and see if after pushing or pulling the spindle it stays there or moves back to the original position.  

Maybe im worrying about something I shouldnt, guess I will experiment some. Thanks.


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## WarrenP (Apr 8, 2018)

After setting up the headstock alignment, and tailstock I started doing some cutting with the lathe. I am noticing the lathe making a lot of noise when I am cutting the outer end of a 1 1/4 " rod furthest away from the chuck and it seems to be chopping the metal abit also. I am thinking it has to do with being able to move the spindle back and forth by that .002 or a bit more. If anyone has the time I was wondering if you might put a indicator on your spindle and see if it moves or how much it moves if you put some hand pressure on it back and forth, side to side (push towards the opposite side your on then pull towards you) and let mw know how much your spindle moves. I will probably see about tightening the load on the bearings to see if it helps but your input would help. I don't want to put to much preload on them if I can help it. Thanks in advance.


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## Mitch Alsup (Apr 9, 2018)

I can tell you of an event with my G4003G where one of the DI5 clamps was not tight.
Bad surface finish,
weird noises,
fast tool wear,
That all went away instantly when I found the loose clamp.


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## WarrenP (Apr 9, 2018)

Mitch Alsup said:


> I can tell you of an event with my G4003G where one of the DI5 clamps was not tight.
> Bad surface finish,
> weird noises,
> fast tool wear,
> That all went away instantly when I found the loose clamp.



What does your DI5 clamp do? Never heard of it and didn't see it on the grizzly parts page just wondering. It seems my problem is more with the spindle maybe being loose but am curious about your clamp.


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## Mitch Alsup (Apr 10, 2018)

DI is a system whereby chucks are held on spindles with 1/4 turn fasteners holding 1/2 moon studs in the chuck.
5 is the size (there are many), and 5 in particular has 6 studs and 1/4 turn holders.
See page 663 of 2018 catalog.


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## WarrenP (Apr 10, 2018)

Mitch Alsup said:


> DI is a system whereby chucks are held on spindles with 1/4 turn fasteners holding 1/2 moon studs in the chuck.
> 5 is the size (there are many), and 5 in particular has 6 studs and 1/4 turn holders.
> See page 663 of 2018 catalog.



Oh I see Mitch, that would make sense on why yours did what it did.

Has anyone had a chance to put a dial indicator up to their spindle and try to move the spindle by hand to see how much movement there is? Hopefully someone can help me out on this.


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## xman_charl (Apr 11, 2018)

Crowbar used to attempt to move spindle back and forth.

Results, are zero on the indicators.

Have you ever greased wheel bearings like on a auto?

Those require a pre-load on the bearings...

 A person can put an indicator on the spindle, or chuck, tighten
the retaining nut on the end of spindle, watch indicator needle move.

One turn of that nut will result in say .050, indicator movement.

So when nut is tight, another turn will result in .050 bearing load.

Another method used, get nut tight, then tighten nut 1/6 turn, which
is just eyeball that flat on the nut, move it 1/6 turn.












Charl


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## WarrenP (Apr 11, 2018)

Hi xman...Thank you very much.  Wow, no movement at all, with a crowbar? I must have a problem there. I can easily make mine move a couple thousands by hand. In the above posts, as I have said I replaced the spindle bearings with timkin bearings. Since, replaced and this problem showed I have tightened the nut on the end of the spindle very tight to see if it would make a difference, I wouldn't want to tighten anymore it seems, I still have the problem. Grizzly says not to put grease in the spindle bearings that to just oil everytime you use the lathe. I suppose it really shouldn't hurt if greased them, I was trying to follow grizzlys instructions.  Im also wondering if the bearings I got just aren't suited well for the lathe. Maybe I should order the grizzly bearings and see what happens then. One thing I think of is on the G0752 it has the bearing then the spacer(washer) then it has a plastic insert that tells the vfd display the rpm's, then a plastic gear and then the spools and 2 nuts. Im wondering how good the preload is on the bearings with all that plastic between the bearings and the nuts to tighten, although it is the way they designed it and worked before. I also wonder if the problem is the left bearing (on the side of the gears) is pretty tight on the spindle and hard to get a preload on the bearing. Im thinking my best bet would be to get the grizzly bearings and see how they might work. Any input is appreciated.


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## WarrenP (May 2, 2018)

For anyone interested.... Finally got back to repairing my lathe. The wife had a total shoulder replacement and I was held up with taking her to Dr's, tests, etc. now she is done with the surgery and rehab hospital so I came back to the lathe. I replaced the spindle bearings again with the grizzly bearings. These seem better for the lathe than the timken ones I got. The timken ones I had seemed to have more play in them than the grizzly did and the grizzly bearing so far seem to be working well. not so much movement in the spindle now and the cuts so far are good. Not sure if timken may have some heavier duty ones than the ones I received but mine seemed to give problems. I wouldn't recommend the same ones I got from timken. Still need to test the performance a bit more but so far seems  to be back to good cuts, etc. Hopefully wont have to go through this exercise again for some time.


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## fitterman1 (Dec 28, 2018)

Hello Warren, getting back to you over this bearings issue.
Seems like you're having a hard time.
Upon reassembly of your spindle you should've tightened the first of the locknuts till you thought everything was seated.
I would then have rotated the spindle by hand whilst tapping one end with a soft face hammer.
This seats the races in the headstock housing recesses.  Repeat for other end.
Then check for endplay with a dial indicator by trying to manoeuvre the spindle axially to show a reading.
You will have to adjust the locknut to a point where there is no axial float as indicated.
You're now at a point nearing completion.
Assemble your drive gear and run the lathe slowly for say 10 minutes.
Then shutdown and do an axial endfloat check.
Adjust lock nut if required.
Power up again and run it faster and listen for abnormal noises. If it sounds good, power down and adjust your locknut 1/16th of a turn tighter. This will induce some preload in to the spindle/bearing assembly cause once everything warms up to operating temperature the spindle will elongate and preload will reduce. Achieving this " running efficiency " is the holy grail of tapered bearing adjustment.
At this point i would run the bearings in.
Then shutdown and let everything cool down at which time I'd do another endfloat test.
Next would be the headstock alignment.
Next would be some test cuts under power feed to gauge finishes.
After some serious playtime using your lathe , i would come back and check alignment and endfloat again in the cold state.
Adjust if necessary, bearing in mind there must be some form of preload on the bearings to achieve serious accuracy.
Excessive preload will cause excessive temperatures and shorten the life of your bearings.
Insufficient preload will cause terrible finishes and inaccuracies during setup also.
Reading your post told me you were almost there with your timkens, you just needed more adjustment for the bearings to be seated properly.
I don't know what brand bearings grizzly source, but if they don't have a quality name stamped on them, i won't buy them.
Hope this helps
Regards Alby


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## WarrenP (Dec 29, 2018)

Hi fitterman1, Thanks for the reply. Actually It seems I got it done. Have had together for a few months now and it seems to be working well for me now. I appreciate the thought...


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## fitterman1 (Dec 29, 2018)

No worries Warren, glad to hear you've got it sorted


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## jimrk (Jun 17, 2019)

Warren, I see you said you ordered a replacement spindle from Grizzly.  What did it look like? I just received my 2nd one and not very happy. First one had a major scratch where the gear side bearing should be. The second one has some nicks in the chuck threads.  They both had 'marks' where the bearings should be. Almost like  'used'



Thanks
Jim


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## fitterman1 (Jun 17, 2019)

jimrk said:


> Warren, I see you said you ordered a replacement spindle from Grizzly.  What did it look like? I just received my 2nd one and not very happy. First one had a major scratch where the gear side bearing should be. The second one has some nicks in the chuck threads.  They both had 'marks' where the bearings should be. Almost like  'used'
> 
> View attachment 296771
> 
> ...


Hi Jim,
Looks like a grinding issue with the dark markings.
Would normally be a reject in my book, but some polishing between centers will take it out. This will necessitate access to another lathe.
The outboard brg journal should be a firm " sliding " fit as this is your adjustable end. I polished mine with wet and dry and wd40 until i could just get my brg on. I wanted to achieve a very close fit which would allow easy adjustment of the spindle brgs during setup. I mean a fit bordering on interference where the bearing is easily moved when you move the adjusting nut.
I also measured the interference at the chuck end and reduced that to 0.0015" because it was too much from factory and creates problems getting brgs off and on.
Make sure you oil the journals when pressing your brgs on to prevent galling.
The only other criteria required is for your spindle to be true, so unless its bent, rework what you think needs to be done and dont rely on grizzlies experts for help.
We'll help ourselves.
The scratch is just plain carelessness on someone's behalf, should have been packed in a cylinder. Be prepared to do a bit of servicing to your machine and you'll know it better. Good for your confidence.
Cheers alby


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## jimrk (Jun 17, 2019)

Good info..  I used my old spindle with new Timken bearings and did more of a brute force install so couldn't really 'preload'.  Might just do-over using your method. (do have other lathe)
Thanks
Jim


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## fitterman1 (Jun 17, 2019)

jimrk said:


> Good info..  I used my old spindle with new Timken bearings and did more of a brute force install so couldn't really 'preload'.  Might just do-over using your method. (do have other lathe)
> Thanks
> Jim


Cheers Jim, just remember that realistically nothing should be a "brute force" install because thats when the proverbial can hit the fan and we end up cursing either ourselves or someone else, not worth the stress mate.
Cheers alby


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## WarrenP (Jun 24, 2019)

Hi Jimrk...Sorry I didnt notice your post. I think they look used too. Mine didnt have those marks on it.


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