# New Pm 1340gt Has Finally Arrived



## Randbo (Apr 5, 2016)

This is my first post so I hope everyone will bear with me.

So I've been slowly putting my shop back together over the past few years. I say 'back' because I have had many different lathes and mills/shop equipment over the years.
I got the machining bug back when I was just a young buck. After I got married, I slowly started buying machining equipment to satisfy my love to design and fabricate.
To make a VERY long story short, my marriage was always a source of turmoil right from the beginning. My shop became my source of escape and a coping mechanism. (Obviously not the recommended way to make your marriage better!) All I can say is I was young and dumb, plus had no idea what I wanted when it came to relationships. I digress....
Needless to say after 18 years of struggling we called it quits about 5 years ago. What I thought would be an easy transition to the single life was anything but that. I found I no longer had a desire to go out to the shop. I ended up selling my lathe, mill, tig welder, just to name a few.
After some time had passed, and things settled down, my 'hobbies' and interests came back. Phew!!
After kicking myself for getting rid of several pieces of equipment, I saw the silver lining in it all. This time I would 'step up' so to speak.
Well after much research on the web, reading forums and such, I found myself gravitating towards the 1340GT. Of course I would have loved to find a 'mint' monarch 10EE or hardinge HLV! any LaBlond that I could afford, or heck I would have settled on a clean Heavy 10. Everything American I looked at, or considered, was just nothing more than heavy scrap metal. Worse than that is everyone here in Utah thinks they have a treasure, and want top dollar.
Decided new was probably my best option. I'm very well aware of the difference between Taiwan and China machines as a general rule. I was willing to put down more cash for fit and finish. That led me to the 1340GT.
Now I would love to have a 3ooo lb lathe sitting in the garage but decided that wasn't realistic. I had a price point that I wanted to stay under. Realistically I don't turn much that needs that kind of rigidity or dampening, but would have been all over a PM RML if I could have afforded it.
Called Matt at QMT and picked his brain. Also got on several sites, including this one, to accumulate all the info I could get on this lathe.  After much thought I pulled the plug. It ended up taking about 2 months to get the lathe, but I knew this going into it so it wasn't a super big deal.

It finally arrived! I took a few days off work to get it all set up. I'm not liking how the crate was so off centered on the pallet. This must have been UPS freight. There was no visible damage though.  Opened up the crate and boy did they get a little crazy with the cosmoline! In all fairness I do understand why though. I'd rather have that then rust!
Lets just say it took close to 3 hours to clean it all off.


















Based on all the reviews I decided to make some modifications to the stand. I drilled and tapped the 4 corners for 1/2 13 tpi on the head stock end. I had ordered up 6 of the Teco style mounting feet. I also went and ordered up 2 pieces of 3/8 plate to go on the top on the stands under the chip tray. I had considered going with 1/2 inch plate and even putting one long piece across both bases. I finally decided that a 3/8 piece under each of the stands would be sufficient. I wasn't impressed with the original top 'strips' on the stands that the lathe bolted to. The welds definitely didn't have enough heat on them. Same with the ones on the base. Plus as I was drilling and tapping everything, I kept getting small pieces of slag falling off the welds inside the stands. Everything was sticking together fine, but I just felt better about beefing it up. I also went through and chamfered all the existing holes on the stand. Looks like when they punched the holes, they put the convex side up. 





































I didn't have any plans on bolting the lathe down to the concrete and still don't at this time. Seems stable enough on the additional feet. I can't say whether or not the additional teco mounts made a difference in the stability or not, since I didn't try it with just the 2 on the head stock end.
So far I'm happy with the lathe. It's the 3 phase version, and I'm using a VFD from single phase. I haven't finished the final install as I'm waiting for my ordered electrical enclosure. I do have the VFD temporally hooked up so I can run the lathe.  I decided to just use 90% of the original wiring on my install. I'm using the forward and reverse contactors to signal the VFD respectively, I just removed the overload and 3 phase wiring to them.
So basically the controls work just as they would if you were using straight 3 phase power, except that I have a variable speed function. Mounted the POT on the front of the machine in place of the coolant button. And I also swapped the E-Stop out with a nicer AB that I had. The Jog works, but just in the forward position, which is how every lathe I've operated is anyways.
















Took out the Starrett 98 and spent some time leveling everything out. I haven't put the test bar in yet to see how close things are. I did mill out my new Aloris BXA base for a nice fit. I have a Dorian at work but actually prefer the Aloris. Both are definitely nice though.

I will post pictures of the process from the pallet to it mounted on the stand. Hopefully they will show up. Ha Ha. I thought I had pictures of the 3/8 plate being drilled and installed, but guess in all the excitement I forgot.

Randy~


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## kd4gij (Apr 5, 2016)

Nice machines, and nice setup. I just have one question though. Where is the chips.


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## FOMOGO (Apr 5, 2016)

Welcome to the forum, and nice to see you getting back into your hobbies. I've looked at those Turn Pro machines in the Enco catalogs for years and came close to ordering a few times, But finally found a Bridgeport locally at a decent price. Have you used it enough to form an opinion on it yet? They look to be well built. Mike


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## wrmiller (Apr 5, 2016)

Nice setup Randy, and welcome to the forums. I've been very pleased with my PM machines so far, and have turned out some pretty accurate work on them. And having Matt and his people in my corner in case something ever does go wrong is just icing on the cake for me. 

So what kind of hobby work are you into?


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## brino (Apr 5, 2016)

Randbo,

Welcome to the site, thanks for all the pictures.
It looks like you are getting very well setup.

I am glad to hear that you are getting back to enjoying your hobbies I think that is an important part of being okay with things.

What projects are on your list?

-brino


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## Bob Korves (Apr 5, 2016)

Welcome to the forums, Randy!  Thanks for "the rest of the story" and it is nice to hear about your return to the shop.  We do need to see some chips on those machines to make sure they are not just shop candy...   8^)


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## tmarks11 (Apr 5, 2016)

How do you like the Turn Pro mill?


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## Randbo (Apr 5, 2016)

Thanks for the replys everyone. So a few answers... Mike,  yes the Turn Pro has turned out to be an excellent machine. It's  definitely heavy (2500lbs) and has the fit and finish you'd expect from a high quality Taiwan mill. It's a 9x49 so it has a decent amount of travel and table space. I've had it for almost 2 years and have done quite a bit of machining with it. One of these days I'll throw a DRO on it.
I know my space "looks" a little too clean but trust me.... That's just my OCD. I'm a bit of a neat freak. I don't go inside until everything is cleaned up for the night... As evidence of my "whole house vacuum" turned shop vac right between the mill and lathe. Ha Ha
I have actually cut a few shafts on the lathe already but I will get some shots in action just to show they are working.

Bill.... So at this point most of my hobbies also tend to boil over into my day job. I work for a manufacturing company in Salt Lake City. We mostly bottle health/supplement juices,  and we also do some cosmetics. I'm the engineer/ maintenance manager for the plant. So I design a lot of the automated processes and actually get involved with the fabrication as well.  I deal with equipment like rotary fillers, induction sealers, cappers both rotary and inline, sleevers, steam tunnels, bottle rinsers, water filtration, ozone, nitrogen dosing and conveyors.
I will bring home on occasion parts that need to be made. Gearbox output shafts, nozzles for the filler, idler shafts and spindles for the cappers. Do a lot of  welding on 304 and 316 sanitary pipe 1 1/2 up to 4 inch. Just a lot of miscellaneous stuff.

I also do prototype work at home for past places I've worked. They will bring me drawings of something that needs fabrication or just bring me a failed part and have me make them up a new one. I haven't been doing this as much lately but think I'm about ready to dive back in.

And last of all I  just love to tinker. I'm always looking for things just to make for the shop. I've made some 'custom' tools over the years just to make working on the car easier, or improvements on any one of my machines in the shop.

As I get some time soon I will post pictures of things I'm working on.

Randy


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## AirWolf (Apr 5, 2016)

Welcome to the forum, and happy to see you back enjoying this addicting "hobby"!!
Looking forward to many more pics and your adventures in machining... I think we all will learn a great deal from someone with your experience!!


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## Randbo (Apr 5, 2016)

AirWolf said:


> Welcome to the forum, and happy to see you back enjoying this addicting "hobby"!!
> Looking forward to many more pics and your adventures in machining... I think we all will learn a great deal from someone with your experience!!


Thanks AirWolf! Yes I have to agree this is an addicting hobby. Expensive as well, but doesn't seem I know how to have inexpensive ones! I don't know how much anyone can or will learn from me, but I definitely appreciate the kind words. I look forward to seeing what everyone else has done. Lots of amazing experience on this site from what I've read and seen. Hopefully we can all learn from each other. I think that's what it's all about.


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## Randbo (Apr 5, 2016)

Time to make some chips.


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## Randbo (Apr 5, 2016)

tmarks11 said:


> How do you like the Turn Pro mill?


Love the Turn-Pro mill. I have a Sharp LMV at work and I prefer the Turn-pro. I would say it's quite accurate, lots of power, and will handle anything I throw at it.
I believe it's an exact copy of the ACRA 9X49 (even the paint scheme) and very similar if not identical to the KENT. I would guess they all come out of the same factory. Are you looking at one or just curious?

Randy


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## Randbo (Apr 6, 2016)

brino said:


> Randbo,
> 
> Welcome to the site, thanks for all the pictures.
> It looks like you are getting very well setup.
> ...



Hey Brino,

So many projects on the list right now. I'm thinking about making a power drawbar for the mill. Also wanting to make a welding table similar to a strong arm design. Tail stock die holder, Rotary welding table, finger brake for the hydraulic press, tool post grinder... just to name a few.


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## hackley69 (Apr 6, 2016)

Really Nice!


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## 1cjk (Apr 6, 2016)

Randbo said:


> Hey Brino,
> 
> So many projects on the list right now. I'm thinking about making a power drawbar for the mill. Also wanting to make a welding table similar to a strong arm design. Tail stock die holder, Rotary welding table, finger brake for the hydraulic press, tool post grinder... just to name a few.


I just built a power drawbar for my mill. I liked a build that I saw on YouTube that Mike(Zmotorsports) did. He sent me his drawings he did and then I converted them to cad to adjust the dimisions to fit my mill. The original design that Mike mirrored was from a guy on YouTube named Colin(Comp Edge X). I also talked to Ray Caniglia from YouTube who also did one and he help me with the pneumatic side of things. I just wanted to make sure I give those guys credit. Anyway it was the best $200 addition for 5 sec. tool changes that I have spent.


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## Randbo (Apr 6, 2016)

1cjk said:


> I just built a power drawbar for my mill. I liked a build that I saw on YouTube that Mike(Zmotorsports) did. He sent me his drawings he did and then I converted them to cad to adjust the dimisions to fit my mill. The original design that Mike mirrored was from a guy on YouTube named Colin(Comp Edge X). I also talked to Ray Caniglia from YouTube who also did one and he help me with the pneumatic side of things. I just wanted to make sure I give those guys credit. Anyway it was the best $200 addition for 5 sec. tool changes that I have spent.
> 
> View attachment 126501


Awesome work 1cjk!
That was the design I was looking at as well. Watched the YouTube build that both Mike and Colin did. Seemed pretty straight forward. I already have an air cylinder and butterfly impact kicking around that I was going to use. Just have to order up some 6061 and some flow controls.
Would love to see your CAD drawings.


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## Randbo (Apr 7, 2016)

So a little update tonight. I threw together a test bar to check the headstock alignment. Yes it's crude but it's what I had on hand








A little disappointed as it was out nearly 2 and a half thousands over an 8 inch span...Ugh... It was towards the cutting bit. I skimmed it several times just to be sure and yep. 
I tried to just tighten the adjustment bolts but couldn't get enough movement. Ended up backing off the 4 bolts on the headstock and proceeded to play "chase my tail" a bit. Finally got it to one tenth and called it good. It's about an 8 inch span between the journals.






One question for those of you who have this lathe. I've noticed when oiling the carriage through the ball oilers, the one closest to the operator takes quite a bit more pressure and you never really "feel" it flowing like the back one does. The ball and seat seem fine, but seems like there is almost a restriction or maybe the passages are smaller. Basically I was curious if everyone else's 1340gt was the same.


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## 1cjk (Apr 7, 2016)

Randbo said:


> Awesome work 1cjk!
> That was the design I was looking at as well. Watched the YouTube build that both Mike and Colin did. Seemed pretty straight forward. I already have an air cylinder and butterfly impact kicking around that I was going to use. Just have to order up some 6061 and some flow controls.
> Would love to see your CAD drawings.


No problem. I need to clean it up a bit.  Give me a few days and I will work on it and send it to you. Pm me your email.


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## mksj (Apr 7, 2016)

Very nicely set-up, welcome to the PM1340GT club. Some of the ball oilers do not seem to flow the same, the back carriage ones seem like they have very little resistance, the front ones seem more difficult. I use a brass tip oiler and I have very lightly filed a cross on the tip so the oil can flow a little easier. You will find the machine to be a little stiff on some of the feed/engagement knobs until the machine breaks in, there can also be some over spray between the panel and the knobs. I would also say that the majority of PM1340GT owners have had to align the the headstock with the adjustment screws as you have done. Doesn't take much to get it dialed in, but is you want it to be dead nuts, it is simple and doesn't take long.


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## wrmiller (Apr 7, 2016)

What Mark said...  

My 1340 wasn't as far out as yours Randbo, but I too had to tweak the spindle/bed alignment. My tailstock was also out by a fair amount. All part of the setup process IMO.

I have a small groove filed into the ends of my goldenrod oilers so that the ball doesn't completely cover the tip and restrict the oil as much.


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## Randbo (Apr 7, 2016)

Thanks Mark and Bill. Think I'll try and file a cross in the tip and see if that helps. And yes the machine was tight buts it's getting better.


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## wrmiller (Apr 7, 2016)

Something else I just thought of: I had issues with my threading lever on the apron requiring a very substantial yank to get it to move up or down. Turns out that under the threading dial, there are some setscrews that can be adjusted to smooth out the movement of the half-nuts. I think it was Mark that pointed me to that one.


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## Randbo (Apr 7, 2016)

wrmiller said:


> Something else I just thought of: I had issues with my threading lever on the apron requiring a very substantial yank to get it to move up or down. Turns out that under the threading dial, there are some setscrews that can be adjusted to smooth out the movement of the half-nuts. I think it was Mark that pointed me to that one.


I will keep that in mind. The half-nuts on mine actually move very smooth and engage well. The stiffest thing on mine was the carriage direction knob. The more I use it the better it gets though. Had to remove all the paint over spray on the knobs as well.


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## zmotorsports (Apr 13, 2016)

Very nice setup Randy.  Welcome to the forum, it's nice to have another Utahn in the group.

Mike.


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## Randbo (Apr 13, 2016)

zmotorsports said:


> Very nice setup Randy.  Welcome to the forum, it's nice to have another Utahn in the group.
> 
> Mike.


I'll have to head up your way sometime. I have a brother who lives in Layton.


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## zmotorsports (Apr 13, 2016)

Randbo said:


> I'll have to head up your way sometime. I have a brother who lives in Layton.



I live in West Point.  Just a few miles north and west of Layton.

Mike.


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## visenfile (Apr 23, 2016)

Randbo,  Had the same thing in my life and relate to the recovery period.  Great pics and shop.


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