# Logan 9B spindle assembly



## AR1911 (Jul 25, 2014)

Finishing up my rebuild of a Logan  9B28-1 lathe. Finally got a good spindle from Joe at Plaza Machinery.  So today is Assembly Day.

I note that there is no provision for oiling the spindle pulley where it rotates on the spindle when in back gear. Most lathes have a "set screw" oil port in one of the pulley grooves. This has none. I looked at drilling and tapping for one, but it can only go in the smallest pulley groove, and it sure looks thin there.  Anyone else here done anything that works? Mjenks? 

Also I am pressing the nose bearing on, and it sure is taking a lot of force.  Bearing and spindle are both clean, and I polished the spindle surface to ensure smooth assembly.  Right now it's got about an inch to go, and I don't want to Load it up more than I have been to get this far. Of course at this point I don't want to press it back off as there is no good way to press against the inner race in that direction. 
   Seems to me it pressed off very easily.  
   Right now it's sitting in the freezer. Hoping it shrinks enough to get finished. Any suggestion welcome


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## Wobbles (Jul 25, 2014)

I'm not familiar with your lathe, but another lubrication method I've used is to drill the shaft along its axis.  If you can see one end of the shaft, then this could work for you.  Drill about 1/3 the length of the shaft on a lathe, then cross-drill a smaller hole all the way through to let the oil or grease out mid-way between the bearings.  Removing metal from the center of a shaft does not hurt the strength of the shaft either.  

Consider that.  :thumbzup:


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## AR1911 (Jul 25, 2014)

This is not a solid shaft, it's the spindle.  It's almost 1 inch ID.


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## AR1911 (Jul 31, 2014)

OK, I figured out my problem. My press setup wasn't right, plus there were some burrs I had overlooked.  So the bearing is now on the spindle.

Now I need to be sure I have the assembly sequence right.

From the right side, spindle nose:

Bearing

Right headstock casting

Bullgear and key

Main pulley W/integral gear

Collar with setscrew

Left headstock casting

bearing

2 Belleville washers, concave sides facing each other

thin spacer

Threaded collar

Is this correct?


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## Redlineman (Jul 31, 2014)

Hey;

Another one not familiar with your model, but if it is built like a 200, everything regarding spindle drive Bull, cone, back gears, etc) goes on before the spindle goes in. Then the lead screw drive end stuff goes in from the left end after that. I would spend some time jiggering the spindle drive components around before putting the screw drive (left) end together. This will save time if you have to pull the spindle back out for some reason. I had mine out more than once for various reasons, and having to uninstall the screw drive stuff again would have been a lot of extra effort.

EDIT: I should say all that stuff is put in place AS the spindle goes in. You obviously feed the spindle THROUGH it as you install the spindle in the headstock.


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## AR1911 (Jul 31, 2014)

Yessir, fully agree. I just need the sequence of pieces. Mine had been apart before I bought it and I have no confidence it was correct as I found it.

I probably should just by the parts breakdown from Logan, but I have been somewhat disappointed in the reprints from them of late. Seems you can buy better - print quality, binding - manuals but he is the only one with the parts diagrams. 

   At this point I am ready to assemble and don't really want to wait for shipping


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## Redlineman (Jul 31, 2014)

I hear ya;

One of my favorite time wasters is to recreate the factory schematics so they look nice, instead of like a spilled bowl of popcorn on the page. I've gotten pretty good at it, even coloring some of them for clarity. Unfortunately for you they are for 200s. Not sure if they are all the same type parts, if not the identical ones, to your 9B.

Example;


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## AR1911 (Jul 31, 2014)

Hey, that's some pretty nice work there!


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## RandyM (Aug 1, 2014)

AR1911 said:


> Hey, that's some pretty nice work there!



Yeah Redlineman, give us a thread telling how you do this.


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## Redlineman (Aug 2, 2014)

Hey;

Anyplace that a bearing sits, I always at least give it a rub down with a scuff pad, and many times light sand paper. Most times, there is enough corrosion or dirt or whatever present to defeat the light press/slip fit interface and cause problems with re installation. A light touch of grease on the surface also helps. This is strictly to remove FOREIGN material from the surfaces.

I do the schematic restorations either by drawing right on them in PhotoShop (JPEG/Pixel), or tracing over them and recreating them from scratch in CORELDraw (Vector).


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## AR1911 (Aug 19, 2014)

OK: Do the Bellville washers go outside the headstock?


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## mjhenks (Aug 20, 2014)

Rex

How different is the 9B spindle from the 400?  I know i went back and forth on where they belong and if they were face-to-face or back-to-back.  I documented what i did in my "Logan 400 headstock" thread.

Matthew


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## AR1911 (Aug 20, 2014)

Matt, I read your thread several times, still did not find the clarity on that one question. 
I'll go back one more time.


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## AR1911 (Aug 20, 2014)

OK, I read it again:  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=20631&p=188006&viewfull=1#post188006

As much detail as you went into, it does not answer the question: Where do the bellville washers go?

1 -inside the headstock
2 - outside the headstock, under the rear bearing

It appears to  me that #2 is the only way that makes sense, because the OD of the bellvilles is less than the ID of the headstock hole. They are about the same diameter as the rear bearing.
   And why would you need a setscrew in the collar if the bellvilles were acting against it? You would want it to float.


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## mjhenks (Aug 21, 2014)

Maybe i am not understanding inside vs. outside.  On the 400 they go on the rear end of the spindle between the spacer and the rear bearing.  That would place them inside the headstock casting.  I made a mistake in reversing them originally but corrected that in post # 65.  (I so regretted not taking better pictures when i took mine apar)

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=20631&p=188465&viewfull=1#post188465

Do you mind posting a few pictures of the 9B to see how it is different.  

Matthew


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## 4GSR (Aug 21, 2014)

Little late responding to thread...

Before I press or install any bearing, I measure both the Shaft OD and the bearing ID, to check how much interference there is.  A bearing of this size, tapered roller bearing, should not have much more than .0005 to .0010" interference. And always apply a oil film to both the ID and OD of a bearing surface before pressing.


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## AR1911 (Aug 24, 2014)

mjhenks said:


> Maybe i am not understanding inside vs. outside.  On the 400 they go on the rear end of the spindle between the spacer and the rear bearing.  That would place them inside the headstock casting.  I made a mistake in reversing them originally but corrected that in post # 65.  (I so regretted not taking better pictures when i took mine apar)
> 
> http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=20631&p=188465&viewfull=1#post188465
> 
> ...



Matthew, I don't think it's different.  Your copy of the parts diagram looks just like mine.
From Post #65,with my comments:

- Once the nose bearing is in, you can slide in this order the rest of the parts through the rear bearing bore. (Make sure the "C" clip is in there)
1 Small spacer
Seems to me like the left headstock bore should fall here (see photo)





2 First Belleville washer. Above I had this part wrong. It only made sense if this went in concave to the rear bearing. That way the ID presses on the small spacer.
3 Second Belleville washer. This one goes concave to the nose bearing. 
My Belleville washers will not fit through the rear bearing bore.  That is why I think they go outside of the bearing



4 Rear bearing. This has to be tapped in with a wood mallet and once it gets past flush to the housing you will need a wood tap spacer.
5 Rear lock nut. This can be used to draw the bearing down onto the "C" clip.
6 Main lock nut.   I only have one locking nut. Maybe the 2nd one is missing?


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## mjhenks (Aug 25, 2014)

Rex,

Man, the 9B is the same as the 400.  Re-modeled and upgraded with more options.  Now where is that elusive 9B saddle/apron assembly I am looking for....  

So what you are saying is that the Bellville washer OD is bigger than your bearings OD.  (or the bearing bore.)  Hmmm.....

On mine the washers are to the inside of the bearing.  They are mid way through the bore. 
 After the bearing there is just the main lock nut.  I see that I stated that twice now in my steps.  Rear lock nut = main lock nut.  There is only one lock nut.  (Will go back and edit that)

You can see below that there are no washers between the lock nut and the bearing on the outside.




Below shows the washers up against the small spacer.  Could not get a picture to actually show the washers but they are in there hidden by the shadows.




The only thing I can think of is that the washer OD is just real tight to the bore ID on yours as your parts look exactly like mine. 
 I did not have any issue getting mine in but I do recall them being close in size.

BTW.  Your first picture shows the washers reversed.  The first on should have the smaller diameter pressing against the spacer.  That is the make this shape.  <>.  You show them as ><

Matthew


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## AR1911 (Aug 25, 2014)

Matt, look back at that pic of the bare headstock casting. See that step in the bore? The washers' OD are bigger than that ID, they will not pass through.  That is why I faced the washers as I did. Otherwise, what would the inner edge of the washers bear against? They are a loose fit on the spindle, and they almost go over the small spacer.
   With the outer race tensioned against the outer edge of the washers, and the take-up nut bearing against the inner race, that should preload both bearings. That arrangement has the outer bearings at both ends acting against the headstock casting, with tension against the inner races applied by the nut.  At least that is how I see the forces. If I reverse them as you suggest, I don't see how it would give any preload.


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## AR1911 (Aug 25, 2014)

I searched through the Lathe-list Yahoo group, which is run by Scott Logan.
It seems to confirm that the "cones" should be touching.  

"Make sure you have the Belleville washers positioned correctly --> )( ."

"When I first tore into mine, I discovered that the Belleville washers (I had 4) were installed wrong.  The were installed ))(( and should be )()( "

From Scott hisself:  

"On the Model 400, the bellevilles (2) should be installed back to back,
like so:

)(    "

Here's the thread (5 messages) https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/lathe-list/conversations/messages/26872

The only other thing I am unsure about is what role that thin spacer plays. One post seems to indicate it goes in the middle of the Bellevilles to limit the amount of crush when you tighten the nut down, so you don't collapse the Belleville washers.


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## AR1911 (Aug 26, 2014)

Today I assembled the spindle just like the first photo above. Went together just fine, everything seems right. 
  Still not sure how my bearing refurb will work out.  I won't know until I get it under power, which will probably be a few weeks from now.  Just spinning it by hand, it feels at least as good as my original 9B did years ago. It was always a bit noisy, but I just thought that was normal.

Thanks for the reality check guys.


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