# Found this Today



## OakRidgeGuy (Nov 12, 2012)

Some stuff that I got today. 

Jacobs 1B & 32 drill chucks, some endmills, hand knurling tool, Federal Westmaster DTI and a Mitutoyo mic.


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## 12bolts (Nov 12, 2012)

Nice score,
I havent seen a hand knurler before.

Cheers Phil


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## OakRidgeGuy (Nov 12, 2012)

Thanks, I have not seen a hand knurling tool before either. And as for the Mitutoyo mic, it needs to be zeroed, but I have no idea with this one.


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## 8ntsane (Nov 12, 2012)

Nice score, that is a strange looking knurler, could you show a close up on that piece?


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## OakRidgeGuy (Nov 12, 2012)

Paul, 

I will see what I can do.


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## OakRidgeGuy (Nov 12, 2012)




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## bcall2043 (Nov 12, 2012)

OakRidgeGuy said:


> Some stuff that I got today.
> 
> Jacobs 1B & 32 drill chucks, some endmills, hand knurling tool, Federal Westmaster DTI and a Mitutoyo mic.



Nice find OakRidgeGuy.

That is a handy looking knurling tool for use on a smaller lathe. Looks like it would not load the spindle like the push type. 

How does that micrometer work? It looks like it has some kind of dial on the frame.



Benny
The Orphanage Never Closes


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## Tony Wells (Nov 12, 2012)

That's called a indicating micrometer. It takes away the need for feel, friction, or ratchet thimbles. You set it and use the dial to know when you have firm enough contact to maintain consistency in your readings. It's considered high precision.


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## OakRidgeGuy (Nov 12, 2012)

Tony, 

How do I make sure that it is set correctly, it appears to be off by about 8 thou

Doc


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## Tony Wells (Nov 12, 2012)

When the thimble zero lines up, the indicator should be on zero as well. If it doesn't, it may be that the thimble needs to be removed and reset. I hesitate to give specifics without looking at it in person. Unless you can find a way to re-zero the indicator, but not likely beyond the limit hands. Any model number on it?


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## OakRidgeGuy (Nov 12, 2012)

Yes, it is a Mitutoyo 510-105A


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## Tony Wells (Nov 12, 2012)

I'll go out to the shop later and see the parts breakdown and I might be able to tell you exactly how to set it. I have a distributor's catalog of Mitutoyo instrument parts. It's not the newest stuff, but I believe it will have that mic in it.


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## OakRidgeGuy (Nov 12, 2012)

Thanks Tony!


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## OakRidgeGuy (Nov 13, 2012)

Ok,

Last night before going to bed, I did a check on the mic against something I knew that would be a constant. And that was one of my Berger competition bullets. Berger is known for consistant quality control in their production of product. Lead cores are precisely cut and copper jackets are formed to exacting tolerances.  My competition rifles are .223 caliber, which calls for a .224 dia bullet. The dia of centerfire .22 and rimfire .22 are different. Well so I pull out one of my 90 grain Berger .223 bullets and measure it. Now where you measure it is on the bearing surface of the bullet and the point on the bearing surface of the bullet is known as the pressure ridge. It is at this point that you would measure the dia of a bullet. Bullet makers run their product in lots and Berger puts the lot number on the box. This gives you a constant to go by. So I take that bullet and measured the pressure ridge with my electronic calipers. Now I know that I have checked my lil inexspensive calipers (14.95) against a Starrett caliper and mine was reading exactly .001 more than the Starrett. My measurement of the pressure ridge with the caliper was .2245. Then I did the same thing again and got the same measurement. So satisfied that I was doing the check consistantly enough I could use the Mitutoyo mic. What I came up with was .2236 with the mic, the way I did this was to bring stem down and rest on the pressure ridge of the bearing surface of the bullet, then watched the black needle on the lil windowed scale come to zero and then rotated the mic around to read which lines had lined up on the ten thou indicating lines. I did this three times and came up with the same number each time, .2236. So I am confidant enough that I feel that I can use the mic with reliable consistancy.

Here is a picture of a Barnes Bore Rider competition bullet, it is a .50BMG match bullet. It has three pronouce surfaces on it. If you look at the are of the bullet where the boat tail of the bullet meets the bearing surface of the bullet, you will see a pronouced ridge. This is the pressure ridge of the bullet. It's reason of life in a bullet is to seal the bore of the barrel so that the gases created will not escape around the bullet and reduce velocity.

View attachment 156844


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## strantor (Nov 13, 2012)

OakRidgeGuy said:


> Here is a picture of a Barnes Bore Rider competition bullet, it is a .50BMG match bullet.


Wow. You don't even need a gun for that to be lethal. Could be used as a pike.


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## OakRidgeGuy (Nov 13, 2012)

It is a lathe turned solid brass projectile. It weighs 800 grains.


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## OakRidgeGuy (Nov 14, 2012)

Well I played with the hand knurling tool.. ha, I will say this, it is a piece of junk, but I had fun with the experience since in reality, I got it for free. So, what is next for it, well it will become a donor to being something else somewhere down the line.


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## flutedchamber (Dec 16, 2012)

OakRidgeGuy said:


> Well I played with the hand knurling tool.. ha, I will say this, it is a piece of junk, but I had fun with the experience since in reality, I got it for free. So, what is next for it, well it will become a donor to being something else somewhere down the line.



That hand knurler is a fine tool, if the knurls are sharp, the frame isn't sprung and it's not wielded by someone hamfisted.


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## OakRidgeGuy (Dec 17, 2012)

Ok..(trying to post this response for the 4th time!)

It will need new wheels.. as for what I plan on using it for in the future, I have a few ideas floating around in my head.


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## flutedchamber (Dec 17, 2012)

OakRidgeGuy said:


> Ok..(trying to post this response for the 4th time!)
> 
> It will need new wheels.. as for what I plan on using it for in the future, I have a few ideas floating around in my head.



A knurler such as the one you have wasn't meant to knurl heavy things.  Brass tubing, aluminum tubing and very light knurling on steel.  It's a 'gentlemans' tool.  I still have two that belonged to my Dad.  He bought them in the early thirties.  They are unsurpassed for what they were made.


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