# 9x20 Power Cross-feed Started Anew.  Lol



## Bill Gruby

Two of the basic parts are here. The power supply and the variable speed unit. It's off to Radio Shack tomorrow for more parts. The motor is on its way.

 "Billy G"


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## Analias

If your local Radio Shack actually has electronic components I'm shocked and envious.  I have to go to Mouser or Digi-Key.

The thread title caught me, I'm looking forward to seeing more of your project.

-Freeman


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## Bill Gruby

Had everything I needed. All I need do is assemble what I have and wait on the motor.

 "Billy G"


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## Rbeckett

What boards are you using for your drivers?  Looks like it is going to work just fine.

Bob


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## Bill Gruby

PWM ---  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reversible-...510?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d015e815e

 Power Supply ---  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Facts-Engin...496?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item232c22c4e8

 That's the ones Bob.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Needed 4 standoffs for the speed control board. 3/16 hex brass. 6-32 male and female thread. They are 1/2 inch long total.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Not much done today, was distracted. The speed control and switches are mounted. The two loose leads to the left go to the motor the two to the right are to the power supply.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Electrical components are in. Left switch for crossfeed direction. Center switch for speed control. Right switch power on/off. All that is left for this is a power cord and the motor. Next up is the Dog Clutch unit. It is a simple push pull configuration.

 "Billy G"


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## Rbeckett

Bill,
Have you already done the slipper clutch mod?  I read that the depressions for the balls in the clutch are not drilled deep enough and that it results in slippage at very low torque settings.  The fix is apparently to drill the indentations a tad deeper, but I didn't get a spec on exactly how much deeper to go.  If I drilled it too deep it would be the same as no clutch and not deep enough means it still will slip at low load.  If you have done this mod could you share your thought and any measurements or specs that you used?  Also what other mods would you recoment before I start putting it to more continuous use.  The fellow I got it from has already changed it over to a 4 bolt style cross slide tool mount and put a Phase II QCTP on in place of the 4 position block style tool holder.  I am thinking I want to build the back gear mod to reverse the threading capability, but since I do so little threading now I really don't see the advantage of adding left hand thread capability immediately either.  So your thought and list of mods would be much appreciated when you get time.

Bob


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## Bill Gruby

Yup, did that one already. Couldn't get more than a .020 cut before. Just take the clutch our and make them .035 deeper. That's all it takes. Go to the site I gave you. The tumbler reverse I used is there.


"Billy G"


http://bedair.org/9x20camlock/9x20project.html


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## Bill Gruby

It's a done deal. Just waiting for the motor now.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

OK looks like the motor will get here today. It arriver at the local PO at 5:08 AM. Question -- If I mount the box on top of the headstock casting I will need to eun a minimum to 40 inches of wire to get the 24 VDC to the motor from the box. Will this cause me any problems?

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

The motor is here. I sure hope looks are deceiving.  :lmao::lmao::lmao:

 "Billy G"


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## Analias

Wow that's small.  The physical size would fit well with a 9x20 carriage.  Let's hope it has the umph you are looking for to drive the cross-feed.


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## Bill Gruby

Analias said:


> Wow that's small.  The physical size would fit well with a 9x20 carriage.  Let's hope it has the umph you are looking for to drive the cross-feed.



 The size is better than I expected only time will tell on the bang for size. :lmao: If it doesn't I find a better one. I have gone to far to accept anything but success. I am going to mount it with an "L" bracket on the tailstock side. I can mount it low and clear all the handles.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

It's alive. Yup works just fine. Plenty of torque.  Now to the mechanics. With a little luck I will be up and running by Sunday. Why did I not do this before?

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Plate #1 of the mounting bracket. There is .750 inch of movement for belt tensioning.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

This is the perfect size for this lathe. It is being held with vise grips and is interfering with nothing.

 "Billy G"


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## 8ntsane

Looks great Bill
I know you have wanted to get the crosslide under power for some time now. Good to see it all worked out for you. That motor though it looks sooo tiny, worked out, and that's a good thing. Reminds my of a mini windshield wiper motor, but looks like it fits in there perfect.

Nice Job  :thumbzup:


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## Bill Gruby

I put a torque meter to it. It stops at just under 14 Ft. Lbs. no typo. 14 Ft. Lbs. Where to mount the control box. On top. Tomorrow I will run the power wires thru a tube to the motor. Not to worry about the power switch to the lathe behind the box. A new handle will be fabricated tomorrow also. 

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Those wires have to go somewhere to keep from getting eaten up by swarf. 

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Should have the Dog Clutch finished soon. Temperatures have been off the scale here. Some days it top[s out at 104. Not good for us old timers.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Timing Pulleys will be here in 5 days. 2,7" diameter 40 TPI. Belt width .310 maximum. I see this project completed in no more that 10 days. :thumbsup:

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

The danged batteries are low on the camera. Pictures later. I changed the PVC pipe to automotive brake line. Difference of night and day. The electric hook up is completed. As soon as the pulleys arrive I will get the mechanical stuff done. I am doing this mod because the finish on the outside of the radial engine will make or break the project.

 "Billy G"

 Bob B stay tuned, wait till you see how I fix the on/off switch. :lmao:


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## Rbeckett

That set up is soooo sweet.  When you get time Bill, could you do a Bill Of Materials list and put up the part numbers and suppliers for all the stuff you used to build this project?  I am really most interested because it will work  on my 9X and I could adapt the set up to run the long feed screw on my 5980.  The 5980 is similar to a Granite 1220 Griz without power feed or threading capability.  I think even the castings are the same.  My hands shake so bad that I would love to add this to get a much nicer surface finish on most of my projects.  Some don't really natter, but it would be an improvement.

Bob


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## Bill Gruby

Did not like the way that brake line looked. Two more small bends and it now runs behind the long lead screw. Much better.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

As promised Bob B here is the new on/off switch. 

 "Billy G"


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## Rbeckett

I'm liking that!!! Where are you going to mount the power control box for the cross feed?  Same place, just above the new switch lever?  You could mobe the electronics box to the side door and just put a small switch panel on the top of front of the machine.  The electronics on the change gears door would keep it close, but out of the way and then a switch, knob, and led on top?  But I really like the switch knob it is way slaick.

Bob


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## Bill Gruby

Yes Bob, the control unit will go on top of the head stock where I originally had it. The lever will bring the on/off to where I can easily access it. Only one more mod for me to make on this lathe and that is a full tail stock turret assembly. Downriver Tools has one just for the 9 X 20. I have the prints.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

While it's down I'm thinking of refinishing it. This is the initial cleanup.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Every part is now mounted in its position. Waiting still on the pulleys. Maybe tomorrow. I can't even start on the clutch assembly without them. Sigh!!! Bob, does your lathe have the nylon 80 tooth drive gear? I have spares if you blow one.

 "Billy G"


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## hman

Bill Gruby said:


> While it's down I'm thinking of refinishing it. This is the initial cleanup.



Yup!  Best to get rid of those blood stains, before the FBI shows up!


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## Bill Gruby

hman said:


> Yup!  Best to get rid of those blood stains, before the FBI shows up!



 That's why I always use Red Dykem, the blood don't show.

 "Billy G"  :roflmao:


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## Bill Gruby

I have a friend at Lincoln laboratories. He brought these plugs to me at lunch. They are not your normal 9VDC  connectors. They are rated 40VDC @ 10 amps. Now I will be able to easily disconnect either the motor or the Power supply at will.

 "Billy G"


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## Old Iron

Billy 

Great job so far,If you keep it up on this lathe you mite be at fault if I have to buy one.

 Paul


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## Bill Gruby

Thank you Paul, you have been an inspiration since I ran the first thread on the power cross feed.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Started the clutch. This is the base piece .

 "Billy G"

- - - Updated - - -

10 index holes go on the flange and the set screw hole to hold it on and this part is a done deal. It gets tricky on part #2. :lmao:

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

I'm making two clutches Bob. One for you. All you will have to do is fit it to your application.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

I'm dead in the water till the pulleys arrive. I've gone as far as I can go.  Bummer.   

 "Billy G"


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## stevecmo

Deep breaths.........


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## Rbeckett

Bill Gruby said:


> I'm dead in the water till the pulleys arrive. I've gone as far as I can go.  Bummer.
> 
> "Billy G"


What kind of Pulleys are you waiting for Bill?  Unique to the 9X or a McMaster or other vendor available part?  Believe it or not if it is a factory only kind of part you might call HF technical and they have a supply of parts that is sometimes very esoteric but might contain what you need. I know for a fact they stock back plates for using dogs so you never know about them till you try.

Bob


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## Bill Gruby

2 pulleys -- 2.7 dia X 2.5 mm pitch X 40 tooth cogged pulleys Bob.

 "Billy G"


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## george wilson

Great thread,Bill. I have little knowledge of electricity beyond simple wiring of household things.


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## Bill Gruby

Mail has come still no pulleys. This is where we are at. I am going to add the index holes and the spring loaded indexing pin today. That is also a new boring bar. It uses TPG 221 inserts. The clamp screw head is on the bottom pulling the clamp down. Head of screw stays clean.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Part #1 is a done deal with the 10 engagement holes drilled.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Basic Drive Pin is in there. Still needs to be spring loaded. Good job for tomorrow.

 "Billy G"


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## Ray C

Look'n good Bill...  Look'n good...


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## Bill Gruby

Got here too late for today but will definitely start reworking them tomorrow.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

What ya mean it's not tomorrow. #1 almost done.  In the center of #1 is the new extended nut to prevent backlash. It is a 5/16-18 coupling nut with a set screw that locks it in place against the lead screw. Tighten the nut, tighten the set screw, minimal backlash. (.004)

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

This is before and after on the #1 pulley. Took the whole flange off and opened the bore and counter-bored to fit the original handle. Even that needed .150 removed from the OD. Other pic is the finished product in place.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Getting close. They fit perfect. Just some small things to finish up.

 "Billy G"


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## Rbeckett

Bill,
Where did you order the Pulleys from?  I got a set like that from Motiontek in Canada.  The shipped em pretty darn quick too.  I think it was only 4 days from Canada to Fla and delivered to the house.  I was definitely impressed when the arrived so quickly.  I think my ratio was 3 to 1 and I planned to turn the stepper very slowly so the surface finish should be pretty good too.  I guess I should count the teeth and figure out what they really are ratio wise.  It really doesn't matter much because it isn't for threading so slower is actually better when it comes to surface finish for me.  It is really lookin sweet though, I am totally jazzed watching this build...

Bob


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## Bill Gruby

I got mine from Dragonmarts in Erlinger Ky. Found them on E-Bay, $9.00 each. My ratio is 1:1. Perfect.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Done for the day. Friction lock is on so drive pulley can override in case of over torque. It's that black knob on the driver.

 "Billy G"


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## RandyM

Jeeeesh Bill, you thought of everyting. Very nice! That is going to be one *sweet* 9x20


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## Bill Gruby

There have been 50+ mods that I made to this lathe Randy. I have one more to go. I am going to put a full tailstock turret on it. I have prints from "Downriver Tools". That will turn it into a full production lathe. I did all this because so many on other forums said it can't be done. Guess who has the last laugh.  :lmao::lmao:

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Almost there. Belt is on order, be here Saturday. The slot for the lever on the engagement pin is done. That is a 1/16 endmill and it was cranking at 1650 RPM. Lot's of fun with a manual mill.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

*Re: 9X20 Power Cross-feed (ALL DONE, FINISHED)*

The boys at Abel Transmission found two belts in the warehouse. It's a done deal, smooth as a goose. I love it when a plan comes together. Bob, that feed lever at the bottom does not hit the belt. I extended the crossfeed so I could extend its range 2.5 inches.

 "Billy G"


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## DMS

Great work Bill, and thanks for letting us follow along.

So, the big question is, how does it cut?


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## Bill Gruby

Matt -- Thank you, So far I have only test cut 6061. Heavy face cut at .045 no problem. Great promise here with a little tweaking. I need to replace the front bearing on the cross slide, it growls horribly. You wouldn't notice it manually cutting. I have plenty of that size (R8). I will replace it tomorrow and start tweaking.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

First cuts in 6061. Impressive at .045 depth. I really need to learn to do the video thing. That tool has 0 radius. :lmao:

 "Billy G"


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## jumps4

looks like it is working out well bill
did you get a good range of speed setting?
steve


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## Bill Gruby

OK, someone PMd me on the clutch mechanism. I will show this in 5 posts. This being the first here are all the parts. ( 1st row top left)

 "Billy G"

- - - Updated - - -

There are four pieces to the engagement pin. The brass pin, the spring, the ball and the spring pin lever. The ball goes between the engagement pin and the spring. It keeps the spring from digging into the back of the pin causing binding. This picture shows the pin retracted and locked (2nd row left)

 "Billy G"

- - - Updated - - -

The next picture shows the pin in the engaged position. (2nd row right)

 "Billy G"

- - - Updated - - -

Next shows assembly far enough to show how the pin engages. (3d row)

 "Billy G"

- - - Updated - - -

The last picture is fully assembled. That black knob is a friction lock to allow the pulley to override if something catches. It is fully adjustable for that. To run in auto mode, engage the pin. To go to manual disengage the pin and it free wheels. This picture is out of sequence for some reason. I posted them in order. This picture is at the top right.

 "Billy G"


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## chuckorlando

Pretty dang slick. Awesome job


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## Bill Gruby

This worked but not well enough to suit me.  Model Engineers Workshop Magazine issues 236,237 and 238 have a better one. Saverin and I are going to put our heads together and make it fit the 9X20 lathe. Not sure it can be done but we're going to give it our best shot. I hope to have the adaptor plate done by Sunday  all the time continuing with the Radial Engine.

"Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

The mount will look like this. It took all morning to get this far and order the aluminum block it will be cut from. Yup, gonna try to make it one piece, if not it will be three pieces.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Adaptor plate finished. 6 holes drilled and counter bored. Carrier bearing in place. Adaptor  totally machined to size.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

The center housing block in blank form is now located and bolted to the Adaptor Plate. Day is done for this. Tomorrow for a few hours in the mill it will  be shaped. Time to go  back to cutting fins on cylinders for a couple of more hours.

 "Billy G"


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## TOOLMASTER

I'M JUST GOING TO DROP THIS HERE.
IF YOU ARE USING A DC MOTOR YOU CAN CONTROL IT WITH THIS..
http://www.dynamicperception.com/AT2-Real-time-Motion-Controller-p/dp-at21.htm


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## Bill Gruby

My old Power Supply will suffice but thanks for the link to a new source.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

It's think tank day. LOL. The unit in the magazine shows the bevel driven gear attached to a shaft extension on the lead screw (Cross Slide). Won't work on the 9X20s. Not enough clearance. I propose a second shaft below the lead screw extension driving the lead screw with spur gears. The bevel Driven gear will also be on the lower shaft giving it plenty of clearance. This may take a while, see you later. LOL

 "Billy G"


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## savarin

could you bolt a small housing to the top to cover the gear like so





or make the cover to fill the top of the block.
But then again the shaft would have to be fed through and pick up the gear so maybe not.


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## Bill Gruby

Yes Charles it could be done that way but I assure you it will be easier with two shafts. The spur gears only need about 18 teeth.  I'm almost there.

 "Billy  G"


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## Bill Gruby

Machining to this point is done. By this point I mean until the gear set is figured out.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Had a little time so I blanked the front plate and installed it. I then line bored for a .375 shaft. Tomorrow I will install the front carrier bearing for the upper shaft. Then we dimension for the lower shaft that will carry a spur gear and a bevel gear to drive the lead screw. Charles you can throw the book away from here on out. Nothing is written in stone. It will look similar but that's all.

"Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Bolts Counter Bored and shaft perfect.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

So far so good. One minor flaw is the large handwheel will hit. A simple extension  will cure that. Auto feed is OK, plenty of room. I will mount this today and use it as is till the mechanics are finished and mounted. A small adaptor needs to be made to extend the lead screw  threads. No biggie.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Not being in a rush has its benefits. Locked in place and the cross slide is as smooth as it get. Now to work on the two extensions needed.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

When you need room you find it. That hand wheel is extended 3 inches. Now on to the cross slide extension.

 "Billy G"


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## cjtoombs

Keep adding extensions and you will have trouble seeing the work from where you have to stand to operate it


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## Bill Gruby

Don't think so as all the extensions are below line of sight to the bed and spindle.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Temporary handle for the cross slide so I can use the lathe while working on it. It is nothing more than a 5/16-18 Coupling nut. Yes, SAE. I got this 9X20 in a number of boxes at a garage sale some 10 or 12 years ago. The lot cost me a mere $50.00. First mod I made before putting it together was to get rid of all metric threads and go to SAE including the lead screws. There have been many changes over the years. You might say mine is Chinese Iron but Made in USA by Skilled American Labor.

 "Billy G"


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## savarin

Bill Gruby said:


> Not being in a rush has its benefits. Locked in place and the cross slide is as smooth as it get. Now to work on the two extensions needed.
> 
> "Billy G"


Not being in a rush???
greased lightning is more like it.


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## Bill Gruby

One of my favorite things to use the mill for is making gears. Made these two spur gears, 50 teeth each, this  afternoon. 14 1/2 degree pressure angle --- 50 teeth --- #3 cutter.

"Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

The lower Driver Spur Gear and its shaft.  The Spur Gears will be in today. The bevel gear set and motor will be here next week. Things are moving along smoothly.

"Billy G"

View attachment 125538


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## Bill Gruby

The gear drive we are using was not envisioned at the beginning. The back mounting plate was too narrow to support the lower shaft. I extended it by adding a 1/2 x 1 x 4 to the bottom of the plate. Now everything is OK. The lower shaft is in place. The spur gears are a done deal as the upper gear mounts to the cross slide lead screw.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

I'll bet the farm you didn't see this coming Charles.  It was the last thing I did before my accident. I used a large handwheel from the parts I have on hand. I modified the dial by opening the bore to 1.100" and narrowed it by .135". I then made a nylon friction washer and pressed it onto the wheel. I made it a slip fit to the dial. The handwheel is keyed and bolted to the shaft. It looks as if they get in the way of each other but I assure you they don't.

"Billy G"


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## savarin

Yer right, I didnt see that 
Any chance of a couple of better pics of your plinth as thats what I'm doing at the moment.


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## Bill Gruby

I'll have my son get them later Charles. It is nothing more than a 4x4 inch aluminum block. I will have him measure it up as I am not sure of the thickness.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Hope this is what you are after Charles? Block is 1.5"x4"x4" Center raised part is machined in and is .400" high and is 2"x2" The rest you  will need to be figured out according to your holder.

"Billy G"


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## savarin

Thanks Bill, I'm on the right track.
Do you think there is any worth in placing the fixing bolt closer to the chuck rather than in the centre?
Did it improve rigidity by very much?


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## Bill Gruby

Good question Charles, I gave it some thought. The bolt on mine is in the center. To put it anywhere else would add stress to the cross slide where not wanted. The hold downs are marginal meaning not much meat. I use 1/4" carriage bolts wit two light flats on the head parallel to each othet. The square part at the head fits almost perfectly in the slot.

"Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby

Navigated the stairs today, be a while before I try that again. Got a couple of pictures of the Cross Slide. This is what a 9x20 should be when you buy one. I hope the guys that are here from the other Forums are watching, if so go back and tell the nut cases that this lathe is head and shoulders above anything in its class and then some. I'm not done with it yet either.   ROTFLMAO.

"Billy G"


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