# Lathe and mill on the way, now what



## bigolbeast (Jan 17, 2022)

I'm currently waiting my spot in line for a PM1236-PEP and PM932V, I've never used a lathe or a mill, and I'm not sure what I'll make most of the time, but I AM sure that I need these machines...

I've watched a lot of videos over the years on machine operation but what I don't know is exactly what tooling I need to get started. 
I could use some help coming up with some recommended tooling and accessories that I'm going to need. At the moment from PM I'm planning on

Lathe:
-MT3 drill chuck
-live center

Mill:
4" vice
R8 Collet set
Clamping kit
R8 Drill chuck
Boring head

Do I need to get the lathe collet sets and chuck with the order? Should I have a separate set for the mill and lathe or find an adapter between 5C and R8. I see a lot of people using a 5C lever closer on their lathes but I think I could get by with a 4 jaw chuck for awhile and skip the collets.

For lathe HSS tooling and end mills I'm assuming theres a recommended place to get these? 
No need to recommended any measurement devices, I'm covered there at the moment.

Thanks for any help.


----------



## matthewsx (Jan 17, 2022)

Hello and welcome,

Sounds like you’re jumping right in. Some material to work with would be important, and some hss cutters for your lathe and bits for the mill to start with. Do you have a grinder for shaping lathe bits? @mikey has an epic thread on here for grinding cutters so that’s a good place to start.

Download South Bend’s “how to run a lathe” and start practicing.

Do you have any projects in mind, that will give you some idea.

You don’t have to go crazy but @davidpbest has a good list of stuff to get started with on here.

You‘ll get plenty of advice on this but probably since you’ve already ordered the machines and can figure out what fits I’d start looking at Craigslist for deals on tooling. You can cross reference prices on eBay or just post it up here to get a quick opinion on if something is a deal.

Best thing is to read and ask questions, you’ve come to the right place.

John


----------



## matthewsx (Jan 17, 2022)

Oh and to answer your question about lathe collets, you should be fine without them to start, learn to dial in the 4 jaw first.


----------



## Nutfarmer (Jan 17, 2022)

The fun begains. As far as other tooling ,add it as you find the need. It better to have a few quality pieces than a lot of junk.


----------



## matthewsx (Jan 17, 2022)

Quality HSS lathe bits are way cheaper used or NOS from eBay or Craigslist. Old US brands like MoMax often turn up for less than new import stuff and if they are already ground they might even be ready to go with a quick touch up.

John


----------



## DavidR8 (Jan 17, 2022)

Some of the best advice I received here was not to scrimp on the vise as it is the foundation for accurate work. I couldn't stomach Kurt vise prices but am very happy with the 4" vise I bought from Glacern.
Likewise the Criterion boring head I found on eBay.


----------



## jwmay (Jan 17, 2022)

What do you need? Overtime...lots and lots of overtime.


----------



## Aaron_W (Jan 17, 2022)

Well the good news is the lathe comes fairly well equipped with the basics, so your list there looks pretty good. You can buy used HSS tooling on ebay fairly cheaply. It can be a bit like buying a box of used golf pencils, but what is all used up for a commercial shop has years of life left in a home shop. Lots of never used blanks on ebay as well if you want to start from scratch.

Collets are nice and you will probably eventually want some, but your budget can help you make the decision of when. I like ER collets because you don't need as many as you do with 5C. An advantage to 5C is they hold really short pieces better, ER likes to have the piece at least the full length of the collet.

A complete ER set will typically go by 1/32s and 1/16s will be adequate for most. 5C have a much smaller holding range so sets of 1/64s or 1/32s are more common, but they do go all the way down to 1/128s for the completest. A full set of either is not really required and I'm sure there are many people with just a small range of the available sizes just focusing on what they tend to use. 


The mill is going to beat you up a bit more since it doesn't come with much of anything. Your list looks pretty good for a start.

No luck on using the same collets on the mill and lathe. Mills with MT collets can cross over if both machines use the same size but R8 and ER/5C can not be adapted as far as I know.


I would think you are probably pretty safe starting of with a set of 2 and 4 flute end mills, and the 1/2" carbide lathe tooling from Precision Matthews. The prices don't look bad, they are probably decent quality and if they ship with the machine I'm guessing there is no added shipping cost.


If you don't have one you are going to want to get a good indicator holder, Noga is a popular quality brand.


----------



## davidpbest (Jan 17, 2022)

matthewsx said:


> You don’t have to go crazy but @davidpbest has a good list of stuff to get started with on here.


Attached is my updated "get started" list.  If you are considering indexable tooling for your lathe, you might want to _*check out this thread*_.


----------



## T Bredehoft (Jan 17, 2022)

Collets.... You won't need them right away, Did I miss mention of the 3 jaw chuck for the lathe?  Thats' a must have.

When you do become interested in collets, go with ER.  and standardize on one size, (they go from 11 to 50. (up to  1/4 in 11, up to 1.125 or so in  50.  But once you've settle on a range, (and have holders) they can be used on mill and lathe.

Take your time, two machines at once, whew. That's a lot of learning all at one bite.

"I see a lot of people using a 5C lever closer on their lathes"  These are for production, they eliminate clamping and opening the chuck by hand. Not needed unless to speed up repeated tasks.


----------



## 7milesup (Jan 17, 2022)

Many folks on here like HSS steel cutters to get started, but I have mixed feelings about that approach.  Certainly, HSS is far cheaper than insert cutters, but before using HSS they need to be sharpened.  This can be as easy as a quick touch-up with a diamond stone, or as involved as shaping the entire cutter to fit your needs.  But, you need to learn how to do that first.  
I rarely use HSS anymore.  After reading David's (Best) book on insert cutters, I have a much better understanding of what cutter needs to be used for a specific material and operation.  
I learned early on not to buy cheap tools (any tool!).  Buy once, cry once.  I have started purchasing some items from https://www.maritool.com/ and other local US sources.  There are Chinese inserts that are good for far less money, but it takes some vetting to narrow down a seller.
When it comes to measuring equipment, I highly recommend Mitutoyo from a reliable source.  https://www.mscdirect.com/ and https://www.msi-viking.com/ are two reliable sources.  Mitutoyo instruments found on eBay are almost certainly counterfeit unless it is a used one that is being sold.  
Cutting fluids are where David and I diverge.  I recently discovered Boelube products and have been very happy with them. I used some of the liquid on my metal bandsaw over the weekend and I felt it made a huge difference. Boelube does not discolor metal nor give off noxious fumes during the cutting process. I purchase mine from MSC Direct.

Hope this helps a little.


----------



## bigolbeast (Jan 17, 2022)

Thanks for the replies. I do have a grinder. Would need to get a diamond stone and review some sharpening videos. Not sure if I should just get inserts. I think it might be good for me to learn about sharpening as a foundation skill. Maybe I'll just get both and see what I like.

I guess I'll hold off on the lathe collets for now.

The lathe comes with a 3 and 4 jaw and a big face plate.

What size HSS cutters would I need for a 1236 lathe? Is there a reason to get more than one size?


----------



## Ischgl99 (Jan 17, 2022)

Something you might like to have is a quick change tool post, makes switching tools very fast and repeatable.  I didn’t see that on your list and not sure if it comes with the lathe or not.  I have an AXA sized tool post on my 1236T, but already had it otherwise I would have gone with a BXA size to take advantage of larger tool selection.

I buy most of my tooling from McMaster-Carr and Travers.  McMaster is not usually the cheapest, but their shipping to me is usually better than other places, and I almost always get it the next day, so the price difference sometimes vanishes.  They don’t list the brand they sell, but only sell top quality products, and most of the time I don’t care about the brand because I know it will be good from them.  Maritool is a place with high quality products, but I haven’t bought from them yet since shipping is significantly higher than from other places closer to me.  Another place is latheinserts.com, they have a good variety of tooling and inserts if you go with carbide.  

I use mostly inserts since I suck at grinding a good tool, but for HSS I would start with a couple of each size, 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2”.  You will find you want a different grind for different purposes, so instead of regrinding the same tool, it would be better to have another for that purpose.  You can also get HSS inserts from AR Warner in standard carbide insert sizes.  Www.arwarnco.com I have used those until I switched to carbide.

When I first started, I bought the two book series “Machine Shop Practice” by Karl Moltrecht.  There is a ton of useful information in there and I still use them 20 years later.

Have fun with your tools, it’s a fun rabbit hole to fall into!


----------



## Aukai (Jan 17, 2022)

I had an ER40 collet set for my Grizzly 9 x 32, But the ACRA I have now has a power draw bar, and I'm liking the R8 collets now. This spline wrench was a must have for me on my mill if you don't have a quill lock. The wrench must not leave your hand until it is on the table when using it. If it is forgotten on the splines the results are dramatic. Have a catch pad to keep expensive tooling from dropping, and bouncing off of the table, or vise chipping teeth too.








						Spindle Spline Wrench at Grizzly.com
					

Manufactured from steel, this new spline wrench was designed especially for holding the spindle spline on many Chinese made round column, square column, and other like-sized mill/drill machines and the smaller X3 sized machines. This wrench has a 28mm spline on one end for the larger machines...




					www.grizzly.com


----------



## mikey (Jan 17, 2022)

bigolbeast said:


> Lathe:
> -MT3 drill chuck
> -live center
> 
> ...



Welcome to HM!

You've ordered some decent sized machines and aside from a big learning curve, your budget is going to take a major hit buying accessories. I suggest you pare it down to the essentials for now and buy other things only as you need them.

For the lathe, you only NEED a simple 3 jaw scroll chuck and a 4 jaw independent chuck for work holding unless you are doing a lot of specialty work (tubing, production runs on nominal stock, etc). You do not need collets to work on a lathe. The same goes for 6 jaw chucks or adjust-tru chucks. All are nice to have but machinists have done without them for well over a hundred years so buy them when you understand what they do and why you want them. I have every kind of chuck you could have for a lathe and the vast majority of the time, a simple 3 jaw chuck is on the lathe. 

I would buy a decent keyless drill chuck for the lathe. While Albrecht is the gold standard, I suggest you take a really good look at the Rohm Spiro. Same performance at half the price, the Spiro is a very, very good chuck. Arbors also make a difference and Albrecht, Rohm and Jacobs (made in the UK) make the best ones.

Live centers make a difference. The top of the line is a Royal but Rohm, Skoda and Ritten make good ones, too. Do some homework. Personally, I use Royals. 

For lathe tools, you can use 3/8" or 1/2" tools. In HSS, there is literally no performance advantage to a 1/2" tool on a 12" lathe, and it costs more and takes much longer to grind vs 3/8". For inserted carbide tools, I would defer to @davidpbest but personally, I would go with 3/8" tools here as well.

For the mill, there are two things that I consider foundational tools - the vise and the tool holding system - and I would spend the bulk of my budget on these things first. 

Kurt and Glacern make good vises. Orange does, too, but is priced in the ridiculous range. I think you could go with a 4 or 5" vise and be okay; 6" might be a bit big.

My personal choice for holding milling cutters is an ER chuck. While it is not the only choice, it is an industry standard for very good reasons. ER chucks are accurate, dampen vibration quite well and are relatively cheap. Good integral shanked ER chucks are made by ETM, Glacern, and many others. I would avoid the cheap Asian package deals with one exception. I suggest you look hard at the Tormach TTS system. I use it and can recommend it but it isn't for everyone.

Whichever collet chuck you get, buy good collets. The best bang for the buck is from Techniks. Use these only in your ER chuck on the mill and do NOT use them for work holding on the lathe; buy cheap collets for the lathe instead. 

Hope this helps.


----------



## DavidR8 (Jan 17, 2022)

+1 to the Tormach TTS system. I managed to luck into a used set of TTS holders and am very happy with how they streamline the workflow. I keep my most used endmills in the TTS holders and just swap them in and out of the 1/2" ER30 collet as necessary.


----------



## davidpbest (Jan 17, 2022)

7milesup said:


> Cutting fluids are where David and I diverge.  I recently discovered Boelube products and have been very happy with them. I used some of the liquid on my metal bandsaw over the weekend and I felt it made a huge difference. Boelube does not discolor metal nor give off noxious fumes during the cutting process. I purchase mine from MSC Direct.


I wasn’t aware we’d ever discussed cutting fluids.


----------



## Dhal22 (Jan 17, 2022)

Dang, jumping into this hobby full bore.


----------



## 7milesup (Jan 17, 2022)

davidpbest said:


> I wasn’t aware we’d ever discussed cutting fluids.


We didn't.  You recommend Tap-Magic.  I recommend Boelube.


----------



## Aaron_W (Jan 17, 2022)

Just so people know what the OP is getting, from the PM site the PEP "preferred package" includes the following:


6″ 3 Jaw Chuck with Inside and Outside Jaws
8″ 4 Jaw Chuck with Reversible Jaws
10″ Face Plate
Steady Rest
Follow Rest
4 Way Tool Post
Dead Centers
Wedge Type Quick Change Tool Post Set with 5 Holders, (BXA / 200 Size)
Clutch on Feed Rod, for use with Micrometer Carriage Stop 
Micrometer Carriage Stop


----------



## davidpbest (Jan 17, 2022)

Since collets seem to be a topic of interest here, I though I'd chime in.  I've updated by paper on R8, ER, and 5C collets which is attached for those who are interested.  And I agree with the sentiments above that the Techniks ER collets are superior and good value for such a high quality product.  _*This*_ is the set I have.


----------



## bigolbeast (Jan 17, 2022)

yea


Dhal22 said:


> Dang, jumping into this hobby full bore.


Ha yea well I come from a car guy/fix everything myself background. Taught myself to mig and tig weld a few years ago. I had the opportunity to get into machining for a guy I met out of college half a lifetime ago but didn't go for it and always regretted it.

Anyway it's been like a thorn in my side that I know how to rebuild engines, do composite work, weld, yet have no ability to machine apart from a drill press, band saw and a tap and die set lol. I literally turned down a piece of delrin recently by tapping in a machine screw, chukking it into my power drill, and holding a piece of sand paper on it while wearing a glove... trust me I need this lathe

I had the money for some machines right when corona hit but then couldnt let myself drop so much cash with the way the economy was going. Now with the prices starting to spike I think of it more like saving money to get it all now instead of waiting any longer and prices going up another few grand.


----------



## davidpbest (Jan 17, 2022)

7milesup said:


> We didn't.  You recommend Tap-Magic.  I recommend Boelube.


Curious if you use Boelube just for tapping, or in an MQL system, or if you're using it as a flood coolant.  I use a variety of coolant products depending on the stituation, but my system is MQL, so I prefer a coolant that is specifically designed for MQL such as the Unist Coolube 2210XP for steels or denatured alcohol for aluminum as described in the attached.


----------



## sr71xjet (Jan 17, 2022)

davidpbest said:


> Attached is my updated "get started" list.  If you are considering indexable tooling for your lathe, you might want to _*check out this thread*_.


This is awesome David.  Hyperlinks for everything.  Your trying to help me spend my money aren't you!


----------



## davidpbest (Jan 17, 2022)

sr71xjet said:


> This is awesome David.  Hyperlinks for everything.  Your trying to help me spend my money aren't you!


Well, that's one way to look at it.  But frankly, my intent is to help you (and others) avoid buying junk tools (like I did) that you end up tossing only to buy better quality replacements.  To be sure, there are less expensive versions of just about everything on my list, but quality varies a lot.  What you need for tooling has a lot to do with the kind of projects you plan to tackle.  Sing out here if you're confused - advice is cheap.


----------



## sr71xjet (Jan 17, 2022)

davidpbest said:


> Well, that's one way to look at it.  But frankly, my intent is to help you (and others) avoid buying junk tools (like I did) that you end up tossing only to buy better quality replacements.  To be sure, there are less expensive versions of just about everything on my list, but quality varies a lot.  What you need for tooling has a lot to do with the kind of projects you plan to tackle.  Sing out here if you're confused - advice is cheap.


My dad always taught me to buy the best.  Cry once he said....


----------



## mikey (Jan 17, 2022)

sr71xjet said:


> My dad always taught me to buy the best.  Cry once he said....


He was right ...


----------



## bigolbeast (Jan 17, 2022)

davidpbest said:


> Since collets seem to be a topic of interest here, I though I'd chime in.  I've updated by paper on R8, ER, and 5C collets which is attached for those who are interested.  And I agree with the sentiments above that the Techniks ER collets are superior and good value for such a high quality product.  _*This*_ is the set I have.



Is the grip range of ER40 collets such that the metric set you linked also covers imperial sizes?


----------



## davidpbest (Jan 17, 2022)

bigolbeast said:


> Is the grip range of ER40 collets such that the metric set you linked also covers imperial sizes?


Yes, read the attachment I _*posted here*_.


----------



## davidpbest (Jan 17, 2022)

bigolbeast said:


> Is the grip range of ER40 collets such that the metric set you linked also covers imperial sizes?


One follow-up.  If your intent is to primarily use the ER collet chuck to hold imperial sized end mills and such in the mill spindle, you would be better off with an imperial set of collets such as_* this Techniks set*_.  If you're doing a mixture of holding imperial-sized tooling *and* random sized (non-nominal) parts on the lathe, then I would recommend the metric set I linked to above (which covers 4-26mm inclusive), PLUS a few individual imperial sized collets specifc to your tools (like 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, etc for end mills and straight shanked tools). I own the metric set, a handful of 1/2mm sized metric collets for use on the lathe, and four individual imperial collets for tool holding tooling in the mill spindle. Hope this clarifies.


----------



## 7milesup (Jan 17, 2022)

davidpbest said:


> Curious if you use Boelube just for tapping, or in an MQL system, or if you're using it as a flood coolant.  I use a variety of coolant products depending on the stituation, but my system is MQL, so I prefer a coolant that is specifically designed for MQL such as the Unist Coolube 2210XP for steels or denatured alcohol for aluminum as described in the attached.


I_ just_ started using Boelube and not in an MQL system, yet.  However, if you go to their website*  here, *there is a lot of information there, including the process for utilizing Boelube in MQL.  Here is a tidbit copied and pasted from their website...

_Manufactured from personal care ingredients, BOELUBE is biodegradable and dermal non-irritant.
BOELUBE is non-corrosive, non-flammable, chemically stable, and free of halogens, sulfur, phosphorus, silicone, petroleum and paraffin wax.
BOELUBE does not contain any ingredients considered a hazardous substance by OSHA, WHMIS, IARC, NTP and State Regulatory Lists. Refer to Safety Data Sheets for additional information.
BOELUBE will not promote dermatitis, provides a high degree of worker safety, and presents a safe effective method to machine various types of materials without special handling, fluid recycling, or typical disposal issues.
BOELUBE can be removed from surfaces using isopropyl alcohol, denatured alcohol, MEK, or aqueous cleaner.
BOELUBE has an indefinite shelf life.
BOELUBE is in most cases compatible with paints and sealants (though it is highly recommended that compatibility be determined before use).
BOELUBE provides superior lubrication when machining or forming the increasingly complex range of materials now being used in Aerospace and other manufacturing industries._

I used some of the liquid on my bandsaw over the weekend and I was quite impressed.  The same goes for the paste I used while drilling a .625" hole through some 3/8" stock.


----------



## davidpbest (Jan 17, 2022)

7milesup said:


> I_ just_ started using Boelube and not in an MQL system, yet.  However, if you go to their website*  here,*there is a lot of information there, including the process for utilizing Boelube in MQL.  Here is a tidbit copied and pasted from their website...
> 
> _Manufactured from personal care ingredients, BOELUBE is biodegradable and dermal non-irritant.
> BOELUBE is non-corrosive, non-flammable, chemically stable, and free of halogens, sulfur, phosphorus, silicone, petroleum and paraffin wax.
> ...


Thanks Neil.  I'll give it a try.  Looking at the text above, the paste version shares many characteristics with _*AnchorLube*_ which is terrific for tapping difficult materials.


----------



## sr71xjet (Jan 18, 2022)

7milesup said:


> I_ just_ started using Boelube and not in an MQL system, yet.  However, if you go to their website*  here,*there is a lot of information there, including the process for utilizing Boelube in MQL.  Here is a tidbit copied and pasted from their website...
> 
> _Manufactured from personal care ingredients, BOELUBE is biodegradable and dermal non-irritant.
> BOELUBE is non-corrosive, non-flammable, chemically stable, and free of halogens, sulfur, phosphorus, silicone, petroleum and paraffin wax.
> ...


Good information. Thanks


----------



## bigolbeast (Jan 18, 2022)

Is the main benefit of the Techniks collets the accuracy? I see the PM set has .0005 vs the Techniks which is guaranteed at .0002


----------



## mksj (Jan 18, 2022)

Techniks have less TIR and are probably a better finished collet.  I just got their 1/2" ER32 today to setup my edge finder ball, which needs to be centered to within 0.0001". Not really doable if your collets have a TIR in the 0.0005-7 range. Also not that we will see the difference but in a production setting the higher TIR equates to decrease cutter life ~10% for every 0.0001".  Techniks ER collets are mid priced range, and offers some of the highest precision as to TIR for these type of collets. 

If you are using them for holding end mills, then you only need a limited number of sizes because end mill shafts be in 1/8" increments. If you are using them on a lathe to hold stock then you want a full set. Note that the collapsible range/accuracy can vary based on the type and quality of the ER collet you buy, some are designed as a fixed shaft size with a narrower +/- range. TIR also needs to be checked at different distance from the collet/chuck. I previously had a 12-13 mm ER collet and when collapsed midway for a 1/2" shaft the TIR at the tip of the indicator was not so good. I recently added a Rego-Fix bearing nut, so as David mentioned you need to look at the complete holding system and verify the accuracy.


----------



## bigolbeast (Jan 20, 2022)

.


----------



## bigolbeast (Feb 5, 2022)

So I found some extra cash under the mattress and am thinking of upgrading the mill from the 932v to the 940v. Seems like they really upgraded the spindle on the 940 to be able to handle 5K RPM. Only thing I wonder about is the stiffness vs the 932 with all the extra extension the 940 has hanging out so far from the column.

Also wonder if the chucks that come with the lathe are worth using or if an immediate upgrade is on the menu?


----------



## Just for fun (Feb 5, 2022)

My guess is the lathe chucks are fine for the beginner machinist.  If on the other hand a professional were building parts for NASA they would probably not use a chuck sold for a hobby machine.


----------



## Aukai (Feb 5, 2022)

I learned on my original 3 jaw, and 4 jaw that came with my lathe. If you show an interest in upgrading later the resident money spenders will guide you to good deals on top tier chucks. There is a difference, but you wouldn't know until you upgrade.


----------



## Cletus (Feb 6, 2022)

When I ordered my mill last year, I bought just the immediately needed tooling and instrumentation to get me going and keep the cost down. Now that the mill has paid for itself and generating income for the shop, I have lots of tooling and goodies that I really want, on the way; DX6 vise, Woodruff Cutter Set, Module 1 Gear cutter set, Sine Bar, Gauge Block Set, adjustable Parallels, ER32 Chuck and Collets etc. (well, the ER32 stuff is really for my lathe,truth be told).  The tooling and metrology needs never really end!


----------



## sr71xjet (Feb 6, 2022)

Cletus said:


> When I ordered my mill last year, I bought just the immediately needed tooling and instrumentation to get me going and keep the cost down. Now that the mill has paid for itself and generating income for the shop, I have lots of tooling and goodies that I really want, on the way; DX6 vise, Woodruff Cutter Set, Module 1 Gear cutter set, Sine Bar, Gauge Block Set, adjustable Parallels, ER32 Chuck and Collets etc. (well, the ER32 stuff is really for my lathe,truth be told).  The tooling and metrology needs never really end!


Ain't  that the truth....it never ends


----------



## alexspetty (Feb 6, 2022)

I'm in the same boat. I'm waiting for the back orders on the PM-1440GT-PEP-1PH and PM-833TV. I've never used either of these tools before, but like you, have lately felt strongly compelled to start with them. I intend to learn how to make steam engines.
Thanks for everyone's suggestions in this thread, I've made many notes.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk


----------



## sr71xjet (Feb 6, 2022)

alexspetty said:


> I'm in the same boat. I'm waiting for the back orders on the PM-1440GT-PEP-1PH and PM-833TV. I've never used either of these tools before, but like you, have lately felt strongly compelled to start with them. I intend to learn how to make steam engines.
> Thanks for everyone's suggestions in this thread, I've made many notes.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk


Welcome to the club.  I received my PM 1054TV Jan 5 and now waiting on our PM1340GT.  The wait is not going to be fun.  LOL


----------



## bigolbeast (Feb 6, 2022)

alexspetty said:


> I'm in the same boat. I'm waiting for the back orders on the PM-1440GT-PEP-1PH and PM-833TV. I've never used either of these tools before, but like you, have lately felt strongly compelled to start with them. I intend to learn how to make steam engines.
> Thanks for everyone's suggestions in this thread, I've made many notes.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk


What’s your thoughts on the single speed belt drive? That’s the main thing making me not consider the 833tv as I want to eventually do cnc but I know I’m going to be cutting a lot of stainless as well and need more low end. I suppose you could always make a second set of drive pulleys and just swap them out. Not a fast change though


----------



## alexspetty (Feb 6, 2022)

bigolbeast said:


> What’s your thoughts on the single speed belt drive? That’s the main thing making me not consider the 833tv as I want to eventually do cnc but I know I’m going to be cutting a lot of stainless as well and need more low end. I suppose you could always make a second set of drive pulleys and just swap them out. Not a fast change though


This may fall under the "I dont know what I dont know" category. My PM sales person suggested that this machine would serve my needs and keep me within my budget. Perhaps I need to look at that question again since I may want to work with stainless at some point. That said, I am also interested in CNC.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk


----------



## bigolbeast (Feb 6, 2022)

alexspetty said:


> This may fall under the "I dont know what I dont know" category. My PM sales person suggested that this machine would serve my needs and keep me within my budget. Perhaps I need to look at that question again since I may want to work with stainless at some point. That said, I am also interested in CNC.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk


I can’t tell you what it can and can’t do but it seems understood that at low speeds / frequencies on the vfd drives you don’t have a lot of torque so if the operation calls for a low speed you won’t be able to attack the material very hard.
All the other belt drive machines have a low speed range for the belt to help that problem.


----------



## davidpbest (Feb 6, 2022)

The low-speed torque of the 833TV is discussed in the following video starting at 4:25 in the timeline. This user opted to replace the stock motor with a vector rated BlackMax replacement to get better low end torque.  I did the same on my 1340GT lathe, and the new Baldor vector rated motor gives me outstanding torque and HP across the range of 10-120Hz.


----------



## alexspetty (Feb 6, 2022)

davidpbest said:


> The low-speed torque of the 833TV is discussed in the following video starting at 4:25 in the timeline. This user opted to replace the stock motor with a vector rated BlackMax replacement to get better low end torque.  I did the same on my 1340GT lathe, and the new Baldor vector rated motor gives me outstanding torque and HP across the range of 10-120Hz.


Is PM's Baldor motor option worthwhile then?


----------



## davidpbest (Feb 6, 2022)

I’m not aware of a PM baldor option.  I bought my Baldor independent of PM.  Several others have upgraded their PM machines to Marathon BlackMax for vector rated motors.


----------



## bigolbeast (Feb 6, 2022)

alexspetty said:


> Is PM's Baldor motor option worthwhile then?


I saw a post where Matt said  he started carrying the baldor motors when there was an import tax on lathes above 1.5 hp. So he would import peoples lathes with 1.5hp and then with the savings be able to put in  USA made motor of the pull 2 hp for the same price as the tax. AFAIK its the same type of motor as the Chinese one and would have the same torque graph


----------



## T Bredehoft (Feb 6, 2022)

Mills and lathes and drill chucks.  We, the  machinists here, do not use drill chucks because of their accuracy. Drill your hole undersize, bore or ream to finish size, or bore then ream to finish size.


----------



## Bryanaverill (Feb 6, 2022)

I use the PM rigid base 3 in vise on my 728. I had to make custom keys. It dials in nicely. I use a 3/8 collet almost exclusively. 1/2 is pretty much the limit of the 728 because of vibration. The 932 can probably go 5/8. I wouldn't buy a collet set. Just buy individuals what you need. My frequently used tools are: 3/8 collet, 3/8 end mill, drill chuck, center drill, drill index, edge finder, live center, v-block set, bench grinder for hss lathe tools. I'm  mixing mill and lathe, sorry. I make some of my own tooling, especially for the lathe. I made a boring bar, hss bit holder, small tap holder, and small die holder. I'm building my own design model steam engine so that keeps me focused on what to learn as I proceed through the project. I avoid buying stuff before I need it. It's expensive and takes up space. I'm finding that a handful of items get the job done. If not, I try to make tools.


----------



## bigolbeast (Feb 25, 2022)

Well I changed my order from the 932v to the 940v. I just didnt want to limit myself on working size and I liked the hardened table/way option that is only available on the 940. Not sure why it couldn't be optioned on any of the mills but I guess theres just limited capacity. PM actually said on the phone they pretty much dont even get 940s without the hardway option because the demand is so low.

So I think an epoxy/granite fill on the column/base will be in order. Then play with it in manual mode while I figure out all the components I need/want for the CNC conversion later in the year.

I guess this means now I'm into 6" vice territory. Still have to decide on one of those as well as lathe tooling. I got Daves book on insert tooling. Need to finish that so I can figure out which ones to order for a starting set.


----------

