# New to me Craftsman Commercial 12x36



## roadie33 (Dec 11, 2014)

I bought a Craftsman Commercial 12 x 36 and am interested in learning more on how to use it.
I previously used a Dunlap 109.0703 and have made some pulleys for use in my wood shop machines.

Overall the Craftsman is in pretty good shape, just filthy.
In the process of taking the lathe apart and cleaning everything I found  the only problem is one of the small 20T gears in the QCGB has a  sheared key. After looking for a replacement gear I found that Sears  Direct still has them but the cost is pretty high. I may just try to  broach a key-way in the gear and add a key in the shaft key-way for the  left hand lever. If that doesn't work I guess I'll have to part with  some more Green and order it.
Here are some pics before I started cleaning.


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## wa5cab (Dec 12, 2014)

Roadie,

That's a Craftsman 101.28990.  If you didn't get it with the lathe, you will find the parts manual for it in Downloads.

You might try Clausing for the gear.  In many cases, they are cheaper than Sears.  Sears used different model numbers for the Atlas built machines that they sold.  But used the Atlas part numbers instead of assigning their own.  AFAIK, all of the parts that they have came from Atlas.

Robert D.


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## roadie33 (Dec 12, 2014)

Thanks Robert,

I'll try broaching a key-way in that little gear first. No loss if it doesn't work. 
Then I'll see if Clausing has one. Hopefully it is cheaper than Sears.


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## wa5cab (Dec 14, 2014)

Right.  Nothing to lose.  You can probably also get a gear from Boston or one of their suppliers.  But you'll still have to do something about the key.

Robert D.


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## Rick Leslie (Dec 14, 2014)

Congrats on the new (to you) lathe. Those are good lathes for the money. You'll have fun learning on it. My 'learning lathe' was a 12" Craftsman as well. Bought in 1984 for way too much money, I still have it and use it regularly.

This guy seems to have a good supply of new and used Craftsman parts. 
http://www.mymachineshop.net/


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## roadie33 (Dec 15, 2014)

Thanks Rick,
I checked out that site and that gear is about the only thing he didn't have listed for the 101. But he does have some other goodies I wouldn't mind getting.

I had a Dunlap 109 and learned on it how to do the basics. 
This Craftsman is about 10 times bigger and has a lot more levers and knobs to get familiar with. 
I chucked up a piece of 2" aluminum, faced and made a couple of passes with the auto feed to clean it up and it was so much easier than the old 109. Chucked up a couple of shafts out of an old printer and parted the ends off, which was a lot easier on the 101. I will use them to make a Spindle Square so I can use the milling attachment I got with the lathe.
After that the next project is a Taper Attachment. I just need to find some plans for one to get a better idea on the measurements for everything.


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## Mondo (Dec 15, 2014)

Broaching a key slot in a gear, on the lathe.
I rigged up a lever-operated slotting cutter using a spare tool rest and a boring bar and some pieces of steel from the scrap bin.

Let the pictures tell the story:


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## roadie33 (Dec 15, 2014)

That looks like a good way to do it also.
I just use my Dumont broach set and 15 ton press to do the job.
It can cut keyways 1/8" - 3/8" in less than a minute.


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## mrbreezeet1 (Dec 16, 2014)

roadie33 said:


> Thanks Robert,
> 
> I'll try broaching a key-way in that little gear first. No loss if it doesn't work.
> Then I'll see if Clausing has one. Hopefully it is cheaper than Sears.



lf they have it, it should be cheaper. 
Sears wanted 25.00 each for tires, clausing had them for about $6.00 each.


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## mrbreezeet1 (Dec 16, 2014)

roadie33 said:


> That looks like a good way to do it also.
> I just use my Dumont broach set and 15 ton press to do the job.
> It can cut keyways 1/8" - 3/8" in less than a minute.



l'd like to have a broach set, but l don't think l'd use it too much, I would have to get it for a cheap price. 
l only _*did*_ a pulley one time, and did it on my lathe. Used a file of all things as my cutter.


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## roadie33 (Dec 16, 2014)

I caught a good deal on flea bay for $75 for the Full set.
They usually go for twice that if not more.

Didn't come with any shims, so I just went to Grainger and picked them up for a few dollars.
I've used them quit a bit for lock collars and pulleys I've made.


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## jbollman (Dec 16, 2014)

12-16-14

Dear Roadie33:

I understand your situation.  You may find a compatable gear from McMaster-Carr - Chicago, ILL.  Several
years ago a friend brought in a broken gear from a South Bend lathe.  This large gear was the gear next to the belt 
drive & had several broken teeth.  I ordered a compatable gear from McMaster-Carr and broached a keyway
in it.  This gear worked very well.  You need to determine the diametrial pitch ( size may be 16 pitch but not certain ) and the number of teeth.  If the gear is a bit too wide you can machine off the unneeded width.  Also if the hole in the gear is too small
you can bore it out to size. If the gear hole is too large you can machine a collar to fiit tight & attach w/ screws) & bore out
the hole to the correct shaft size.  

If you have any further questions please feel free to respond to this site and
I will help you any way I can. NOTE: Be certain the pitch before you order.  If you have a gear pitch guage( or borrow from someone) 
check the size. )

Regards,

jbollman


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## Andre (Dec 16, 2014)

Spiral_Chips said:


> Broaching a key slot in a gear, on the lathe.
> I rigged up a lever-operated slotting cutter using a spare tool rest and a boring bar and some pieces of steel from the scrap bin.



SC, I really like your compound style keyway broach, I've been wanting to make something similar but this would really save a lot of building time, and would be much simpler. Thank you so much for the pictures! 

Can you turn using the lever compound? Like if you had a lot of parts to make, it might be nicer to move a lever than fumble around with a tiny crank. 

Thanks!


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## Mondo (Dec 17, 2014)

Andre:
I think using the lever as an advance for turning would be rather clumsy.  It is really difficult to get an exact change in position, and certainly not repeatable unless the movement was to a stop.
That mechanism I rigged up was done rather quick and dirty and leaves a lot to be desired in precision of the moving parts.  It maintains reasonable accuracy used for purpose for which it was built though.  I have to be judicious adjusting the gib screws and need to lubricate the slide liberally and often using way oil.

I am not at home now and do not have good access to the photo album; will try posting a wider view of the assembly later.


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## Mondo (Dec 17, 2014)

New thread: Modified tool post compound for broaching and slotting


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## roadie33 (Dec 19, 2014)

Ordered a QCTP from CDCO and it came in today. Yipee.




But now I have to buy some End Mills to mill down the T-Nut to fit.


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## mrbreezeet1 (Dec 19, 2014)

roadie33 said:


> Ordered a QCTP from CDCO and it came in today. Yipee.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



did mine with a lathe and a hacksaw. 
No milling. 
Do you have a mill, or are you milling on the lathe?


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## roadie33 (Dec 19, 2014)

Just milling on the Lathe, I have the Milling attachment for it.
It works pretty good. Did some key ways in shafts that turned out great.

I wish I had a Mill.


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## Mondo (Dec 19, 2014)

roadie33 said:


> .....But now I have to buy some End Mills to mill down the T-Nut to fit.




I used a length of ground flat bar:  1" x 5/16" x 2.75".  Drilled and tapped a 9/16" hole in the middle, turned and threaded a length of round stock on both ends for the bolt leaving a small flange to tighten against at the flat bar end.  No milling!  A drop of LocTite when threading the bolt into the flat bar and in more than 4 years it hasn't come loose yet.











roadie33 said:


> ...I wish I had a Mill.




Ditto


It seems there are two items that have taken up permanent residence on my "Wish" list:


Verticle Mill
TIG welder

The only way to get them off that list is to procure them.

Maybe a-la Janis Joplin?
"Oh Lord! Won't you buy me a verticle mill?  My friends all have Bridgeports, I need to make things square!"


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## mrbreezeet1 (Dec 19, 2014)

roadie33 said:


> Just milling on the Lathe, I have the Milling attachment for it.
> It works pretty good. Did some key ways in shafts that turned out great.
> 
> I wish I had a Mill.



Yeah, I am sure it worked well, I wish l had a mill too, even a stout bench one. 

I just made mine in the lathe, out of some thick round stock, and sawed the ears off with a hack saw, cleaned up with a file and sander.


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## roadie33 (Dec 19, 2014)

MrBreeze and Spiral, Thanks for the good ideas.
I may just do one or both tonight. Never even thought of doing it either way.

Still, I need to buy some end mill bits. Just called a local machine shop that is selling out and they said come on down and pick up what I needed. 
Said they would "do me right"

Hope that's a good thing.....


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## mrbreezeet1 (Dec 19, 2014)

roadie33 said:


> MrBreeze and Spiral, Thanks for the good ideas.
> I may just do one or both tonight. Never even thought of doing it either way.
> 
> Still, I need to buy some end mill bits. Just called a local machine shop that is selling out and they said come on down and pick up what I needed.
> ...



Wow, I'm sure you'll get a deal.


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## roadie33 (Dec 19, 2014)

Just got back from Machine shop and here is what I left with for now. I will be going back.

Got all of these for $20



And these for $40 Brand new, Never used.


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## wa5cab (Dec 20, 2014)

Minor terminology point (before you go and talk to some machinists).  Just "end mill" or "end mills" is sufficient.  "end mill bits" is redundant.:whistle: 		



roadie33 said:


> Still, I need to buy some end mill bits.



Robert D.


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## roadie33 (Dec 20, 2014)

Old habit of something used to drill or mill, I call them bits.

I got the T-nut milled down to the correct dimensions and the QCTP works great.
I don't like the knurling holder. I think I'll look for a clamping style instead of using that one.
Looks like it would put a lot of pressure on the spindle and compound.
Soaked all of the end mills and Reamers in some Evapo-Rust over night and now they look brand new.


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## chevydyl (Dec 21, 2014)

they arent called drill bits either, they are drills, even though i call em drill bits, you put a drill into a drill motor lol


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## Rick Leslie (Dec 21, 2014)

I LMAO the first time I heard a coworker refer to a "drill motor". I've always called it a 'drill' and drill 'bits'. But never end mill 'bits', although everyone understood what you were talking about. 

So where does that leave us with "lathe bits"?  :rofl:


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## Mondo (Dec 21, 2014)

wa5cab said:


> Minor terminology point (before you go and talk to some machinists).  Just "end mill" or "end mills" is sufficient.  "end mill bits" is redundant.:whistle:
> 
> Robert D.



I thought "end mill bits" are what we call the little pieces that scatter around the shop when you get too aggressive with the feeds and speeds and the cutting tool shatters with a BANG!  :yikes:


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## Round in circles (Dec 21, 2014)

:roflmao:And out of the wood pile comes :- 

End mill cutters . 
Twist drills

A brace & bit or a brace and auger


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## John Hasler (Dec 21, 2014)

Rick Leslie said:


> I LMAO the first time I heard a coworker refer to a "drill motor". I've always called it a 'drill' and drill 'bits'. But never end mill 'bits', although everyone understood what you were talking about.
> 
> So where does that leave us with "lathe bits"?  :rofl:



The result of a really serious crash?


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## roadie33 (Dec 21, 2014)

LOL
Well I got the End Mills and Reamers out of the Evapo-Rust after an over night soak and they are back to looking brand new.





I was having a difficult time finding some layout dye this weekend. I was in Wally World and happened to be in Automotive looking for some Loctitie and came across some stuff called Glass Chalk. It has a spongy applicator and I figured if it worked on glass it should work on Metal. $4.00
I tried it tonight and it worked great. Scribed lines to follow while cutting and could see lines with no problem. Spray some Green Clean on it and it comes right off. 
So in a pinch, you can pick it up at Wally World until you get some Dykem.


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## roadie33 (Dec 27, 2014)

Thought I'd show what I've been working on in the shop.
Halfway done with the Taper attachment. Made it out of 1/2" and 3/8" Aluminum.
All that's left is to mill a slot the length of the bar that attaches to the Compound and make a riser for the main bar to follow.
I'm also going to have to move the pole for the switch somewhere else now.


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## roadie33 (Dec 30, 2014)

Finally got the Taper Attachment done.
Patterned it after the one Tubalcain made for his Craftsman.


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