# Just Ordered A G0704.  Let The Fun Begin!



## wachuko

New to the forum.  Thought I would share a funny story...

Working on my motorcycle fitting wheels that are not for my bike, so a few modifications are required...

Need to remove 1/4" from the caliper  mount points to realign with the brake rotor...










I have one of these: 1/3 hp craftman bench drill press




I thought that I could order one of these: Shop Fox D2730 3-Inch Cross Sliding Vise




some milling bits  







And be done with it... just to double check, I posted this on the Garage Journal forum...boy was I in for a surprise... quickly learned that a drill press was no replacement for anything that needed lateral forces... so the plan that I had was not the correct approach.   Several folks there, that I am grateful for, recommended many different approaches.   

Now, I tend to look for any excuse to get tools... someone suggested that I used a milling machine... go to a machine shop and let them do it, use a file and just take my time, etc... but it was the perfect excuse to finally get a milling machine... could not resist doing so...

While I was reading and looking at machines, I went ahead and order a few accessories (ordered the 13/16" 4 Flutes Square End Mill, a vise, some different 4 flute square end mills, fly cutter set, clamping kit, collet set, 1-2-3 blocks, etc)...

I was looking at the Mini... because of the use I will give it, made no sense to get anything bigger... or so I thought...




But then I read about the gear breaking and folks recommending going with the kit to modify it for belt use... so add the cost of that kit (true, not needed from the get go, but it will be required down the line) but when I added the cost of the belt conversion kit, it is close to the next one in size... 




But that second one does not include a table...and I needed one... Can you guys see where I am going with this???

This deal from Grizzly (a G0705) is the same machine HF has but with the base/stand... for a couple hundred more....

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Drill-Mill-with-Stand-29-inch-x-8-inch-Table/G0705




Additional 25.00 off shipping cost for signing up for their email news...   

Then someone posted... "oh Wachuko, but  that is a round collar mill...you should really look for one with a square column"  and I am going inside my head, "yeah? so??".  I then start reading about round collar mill vs square column mills... then someone mentions the G0704... by now my head is spinning... and I am asking the forum members for help...is the G0704 a better alternative to the G0705 ???  .

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Drill-Mill-with-Stand/G0704




This is the time when another forum member in the Garage Journal site, tells me to take a deep breath and come here to read some more and learn before buying... yeah.. that helped!... I felt like it was going to be 2017 before I could make a decision... you see... then I start reading about CNC conversion kits... I learn that the PM-25MV is similar but with a few more upgrades... arghhhhh!!!

As someone mentioned, I could have used a nail file and I would have been riding my bike by now... anyway... I kept reading, watched videos, looked at the lead times for the delivery of one versus the other... and just made the choice of going with the Grizzly G0704 - Drill/Mill with Stand.  I really liked the upgrades that the PM-25MV includes, but I just could not wait that long for it to arrive... So the order was placed today and now I wait for it to arrive!!

I sure hope that I have made the right decision... this is for my garage at home... to make stuff for the bike and small stuff for projects that I have with my cars... and really, just to learn how to make something from a block of metal.  My dad was good with all this, and I never learned.  With him now gone, I feel like I need to start doing some of this and teach my son as well... 

You guys have a great site here!!  Looking forward to learning a lot!!

BTW, this is the bike...mounting wheels from a Fat Bob Dyna on a Sportster 48...




One of this days, I will share the time when I went out for milk and eggs and came back with a car...


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## wrmiller

I needed to make some mods way back in the day of the original '86 GSXR 1100 when I stuffed that motor into a 750 frame to make a lighter racebike. 

Soon you'll end up like the rest of us here...


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## roadie33

Wachuko,
I too just got a G0704 about 3 weeks ago and am very happy with it.
I actually drove to Springfield , Mo to pick it up with the wife as an excuse for a mini vacation.   She thought that was a good idea.  Lucky me.
I also have been researching about the gear problems with these Mills but so far it has worked great without even a grunt.  
Replacement gears are cheap and are in stock at Springfield store.
Flycut some 1/2" aluminum plate with my homemade Flycutter with no problem, and made a couple of AXA tool holders.
I'll probably put the belt drive on it when I get a good set of plans to make the parts.

You'll have a good machine when you get all set up and start using it.
Just make sure to clean the shipping goo off real good and lube it up after. I just used some WD40 and Simple Green cleaner with the Blue heavy paper towels.


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## wachuko

Mike, that is great to read.  I will be sure to get some scrap material, from the local supply store, to play with it before I hit that brake caliper.

I might just order a spare gear to have it in stock, just in case...

Thank you!


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## brav65

wachuko said:


> Mike, that is great to read.  I will be sure to get some scrap material, from the local supply store, to play with it before I hit that brake caliper.
> 
> I might just order a spare gear to have it in stock, just in case...
> 
> Thank you!



Good idea as the gears go out of stock frequently and you would be SOL without a gear. Check out Hossmachine at g0704.com for lots of info on your new machine. You can also download the manual at the grizzly sight so you can read up on your new baby.


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## coffmajt

You will be happy with the choice you made - the round column mills are tough to keep in alignment.  There are lots of great videos on you tube that can help you learn how to get the most out of your machine, set ups, tooling, speeds and feeds, etc.  Best of luck and welcome to a great forum -- Jack


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## roadie33

BTW Wachuko,
When you get a 1/2" hold down set, you will have to mill a few thousandths off each side of the T nuts to get them to slide in the table slots.
I think the T slots are 12mm metric. I had to do that on mine and have heard of others having to do the same.


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## roadie33

I wonder what Matt charges for the X Axis feed setup that would fit the G0704 since it's about the same as his PM 25.
Griz wants $300 for theirs.


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## wachuko

roadie33 said:


> BTW Wachuko,
> When you get a 1/2" hold down set, you will have to mill a few thousandths off each side of the T nuts to get them to slide in the table slots.
> I think the T slots are 12mm metric. I had to do that on mine and have heard of others having to do the same.



I did not think nor checked before ordering... yes, I ordered the 1/2" hold down set... reading the specs on the table it is actually  7/16"  (11.17 mm), doh!


T-slots: 3 @ 2-1/2" centers, 7/16" wide
Like you said, I will modify them to fit instead of returning it and ordering another set... the T-nuts are the only part that need to be modify as the rest is the same that comes in the two kits.  Bolts are 3/8" in both...

Thank you!


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## wachuko

brav65 said:


> Good idea as the gears go out of stock frequently and you would be SOL without a gear. Check out Hossmachine at g0704.com for lots of info on your new machine. You can also download the manual at the grizzly sight so you can read up on your new baby.



  User manual, parts diagram, spec sheet... all downloaded!!

I need to figure out which gear is the one that goes... let me research that so that I can place that order next week.


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## brav65

roadie33 said:


> I wonder what Matt charges for the X Axis feed setup that would fit the G0704 since it's about the same as his PM 25.
> Griz wants $300 for theirs.



Matt is the same price for the power feed, $299.00.  The PM-25 has slightly different end plates than the G0704 so some minor modifications would be required.


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## wachuko

roadie33 said:


> I wonder what Matt charges for the X Axis feed setup that would fit the G0704 since it's about the same as his PM 25.
> Griz wants $300 for theirs.



Where are you seeing that in the Grizzly site?  Can't find it...

Also looking for an inexpensive DRO setup... I saw one on youtube






Might go with that for now...

Two required:
X - iGaging 24" Magnetic Remote Digital Readout
Y - iGaging 12" Magnetic Remote Digital Readout
(if doing Z - get one more 24" long)

And also for reference, good video on the DRO dyi... I need to get the stuff needed to build this...pretty cool!


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## wachuko

Found it

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Power-Feed-for-G0704/T23010


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## wrmiller

wachuko said:


> Found it
> 
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/Power-Feed-for-G0704/T23010



Yup, that's it. Works great.


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## 6mmBR

Congrats on your purchase. I'm thinking of that same mill later this year to go with my Go752 lathe. Looks like a nice pair for a hobbyist.  Let us know how it works out for you. With pictures, of course.


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## brav65

wachuko said:


> User manual, parts diagram, spec sheet... all downloaded!!
> 
> I need to figure out which gear is the one that goes... let me research that so that I can place that order next week.




There are two gears the one that typically goes is on the spindle. Given the fact that they are plastic I think I would order both.  I actually ordered a 704 but cancelled due to shipping delays. At the time they were out of both gears and we're not supposed to get any for two months. Belt drive is the way to go, no worries about broken gears and much quieter


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## wachuko

I am counting on no delays since it showed as in stock.  Reason why I went with that instead of waiting for the PM-25MV...  I will call Monday to confirm...if I have to wait, then I rather wait for the PM-25MV


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## roadie33

When I was in Springfield 3 weeks ago, they had 7 left in stock after I got mine.
I just looked and show they still have some in stock.


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## brav65

wachuko said:


> I am counting on no delays since it showed as in stock.  Reason why I went with that instead of waiting for the PM-25MV...  I will call Monday to confirm...if I have to wait, then I rather wait for the PM-25MV



They showed in stock when I ordered mine then a few days later they said it would be a two month wait. That wait ended up being almost four months for the guys that kept their order. I called Matt and cancelled my order the next day. I hope they are in stock for you!


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## wachuko

brav65 said:


> They showed in stock when I ordered mine then a few days later they said it would be a two month wait. That wait ended up being almost four months for the guys that kept their order. I called Matt and cancelled my order the next day. I hope they are in stock for you!



Just got off the phone with them... item was in stock and mine is shipping out today.  If everything goes well, it should be home before the end of the week.


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## roadie33

Good deal.
Don't forget to take pics when truck gets there and during unload process.
I forgot to when I got mine home. To excited to get it uncrated and in the shop.


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## wachuko

Mike, absolutely!  I tend to take photos of everything! lol

I do not have any major tools in the garage... this will be the first.  The only thing that I have is a low-ceiling two-post lift 

Here are photos when it was delivered...







I will do the same when this puppy is home!!  Now to finish cleaning up and organizing the garage... must make space for it.  Woohooo!!


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## roadie33

How do you like the lift? I've been thing about getting something like that myself.
Where did you order it from?


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## wachuko

roadie33 said:


> How do you like the lift? I've been thing about getting something like that myself.
> Where did you order it from?



Love it... best thing that I have done in my garage.  I used to have a mid-rise scissor lift, but it was a bit of a pita when trying to work under the car... all that metal in the way.  This lift allows me to work under the car with no issues.  When I am done, I unbolt it from the floor and move it against the wall.  I drilled holes so that I can use it in the single bay and in the double bay (with two different positions in the double bay).

I bought it as part of the first group-by when it first came out...I think that it was back in 2009... directly from Dannmar.  It gets a lot of use!!

Here is when me and my brother did the install... first test was with one column and a motorcycle... since then it has lifted several cars helping out friends fix stuff...




Just testing lifting this one...







Helping a friend replace a smog pump? Can't remember what it was...




Working on the Spider




Helping a friend replace the engine cross member on his Spider




After it was done... being an Italian car, an espresso was in order, lol... 




Another project... removing everything before it went to the body shop for paint... 




Another project... this one needed body work also (rust) and complete engine overhaul...




Those are old photos... the garage is a mess right now... reason why I need to clean up, organize, get rid of crap not being used, etc... must move quick!  This is what it looks like today! Yikes!











I need to get one of those side mounted garage door openers and get the door to open closer to the ceiling... like she said, every inch counts...


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## roadie33

Thanks Wachuko.
Gonna have to check them out.
I would also have to clean out the garage to put one in.


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## wachuko

Those that have one... How much area do I need to clear up??  What is the actual space that I will need to have to avoid the machine hitting anything?

Height-? Width - 57"?  Depth - 25"?


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## zmotorsports

Congratulations on your new Grizzly mill/drill.  Nice looking garage also.

There is a guy on here as well as garagejournal.com that goes by Falcon67, his name is Chris.  I believe he has this same mill and seems to do quite a bit of work with it.  If you have any questions I am sure he would be more than willing to answer them for you.

Mike.


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## roadie33

I set mine 24" from the Back and it's 10' or better to the left and right.  I placed it so I could put any length on the table with supports if needed.


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## wachuko

roadie33 said:


> I set mine 24" from the Back and it's 10' or better to the left and right.  I placed it so I could put any length on the table with supports if needed.



Do you remember how high it is?  Trying to see if I can fit it behind the sliding doors by just removing one shelve... 

10' !  I was hoping it would fit in a 5' space... hummm... 

Thank you Mike!


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## roadie33

I think it was around 77" total height with stand.


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## wachuko

Look what just showed up!!!


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## zmotorsports

NICE!!!

Now quite playing on the internet and get that thing set up so you can make chips.

Mike.


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## zmotorsports

Oh, by the way, it looks like you have a nice healthy, green lawn also.  Nice looking yard.

Mike.


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## wachuko

More photos... one box with the machine, the second one with the stand...




This is what I really want to see...




The tray that goes in between the stand and the mill is inside here...







Minor paint/powder coating chipped areas but nothing bent or broken... must have been the mill rubbing against the tray.  Pretty sure I will make marks and scratches of my own, lol...




Yeah baby!




Toolbox




And inside the garage waiting for me to move all the crap out of the way...


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## mike837go

Looks great!

When you gonna build somfing wit it?


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## roadie33

Just make sure you bolt it down to the floor. It is very top heavy and doesn't take much to tip it.

I used 4 of these to anchor it in my floor.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/d..."600163 Screw Anchors"|~ ~|attrdiameter:630|~


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## wachuko

I will stop tomorrow by the local Ace hardware store and  see if they carry those... thank you!  Plan is to clean the area and move it in place.  Will be doing all the cleaning of that goo that everything has, man!


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## brav65

wachuko said:


> I will stop tomorrow by the local Ace hardware store and  see if they carry those... thank you!  Plan is to clean the area and move it in place.  Will be doing all the cleaning of that goo that everything has, man!



The anchors that Mike shows above are great for static loads with little movement. My experience in using them has been that they do not perform as well when vibration is present.  In addition they require a very good quality hole and the concrete must be of good quality, or the threads will not bite into the concrete.  I have used them in home building.  We built about 50 houses using them to secure retrofit straps for interior shear wall applications.  I would recommend an expanding anchor, such as a red head.  They are cheaper and are good for use in any concrete.  Just my $.02


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## kizmit99

I would agree with Brooks - Personally I wouldn't trust the anchors linked to above (in this application).  I went with good old expanding concrete anchors (studs on one side and bolts on the other).  I originally tried machine pads/feet - didn't like those at all.  Securely anchored to the floor is the way to go.
Have fun with your new machine!


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## wachuko

I have spent the day moving stuff around, reorganizing the stuff on the shelves... throwing away some of the crap that accumulates with the years... got rid of two shelves and was able to move it here.  Now to get some double action concrete anchors and normal bolts and secure this puppy...


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## wachuko

Done.




Found an inexpensive LED lamp and installed it above the mill....  I will route the electrical cord better.  Just wanted to test the light...




Now to continue reading the manual...


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## wachuko

Oh..and when not in use, these sliding panels cover the mess...

Now you see it




Now you don't


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## wachuko

Gunrunner you need to order a set of these for the Z axis hand crank. Bill did you just spit coffee on your monitor? :rofl:

View attachment 253356


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## brav65

Gunrunner you need to order a set of these for the Z axis hand crank. Bill did you just spit coffee on your monitor? :rofl:

View attachment 253356


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## wachuko

brav65 said:


> The Vectra #2 is what I use for table screws and column, I also got some #4 for the vertical column.  I did not want to go with grease as chips will stick to it.  So far (almost a year) everything is working great.  I did use grease on the Z axis pinion gear because it is enclosed.  I am in AZ so rust is not a huge problem except when you leave a cold drink on the table (duh).  I did not measure the temp on my machine, but motor was only warm to the touch, and I have no gears.  I have not lubricated my spindle yet, as I have not taken it apart yet.
> 
> Keep your eyes open for an older US made Jacobs Chuck or an Albright.  I have both, a keyless Albright and a  Jacobs J6.  Both can be taken apart and replacement parts are available.  Stay away from the new Jacobs as they are made in China, and a number of guys have been very unhappy with the quality.
> 
> Search hand cleaners on the forum and you should find a number of different options.  I use an GoJo myself along with Dawn dish soap.



Now I see why you suggested looking for an used one... US$364.00 yikes!

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=4362783&PMAKA=890-9226


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## brav65

wachuko said:


> Now I see why you suggested looking for an used one... US$364.00 yikes!
> 
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=4362783&PMAKA=890-9226




There is one on ebay now that looks a little beat up but not bad for the price.  New parts are available for Albright directly, so there is not much risk unless the thing has been completely abused.  I got one that was almost brand new for $104.  It had a 1/2" straight arbor, so I have to use a collet until I get and R8 arbor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Albright-Chuck-With-Collet-/201388727543?hash=item2ee3b41cf7


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## Eddyde

Congrats on the new mill, it looks like a fine machine. I like your progression up the chain of mills, I went through a similar journey and finally purchased one last Friday (will be posting that saga soon).

Just for posterity and in no meaning to rain on your parade; You can mill on a drill press, I have done it many times. Ya gotta take light passes and go slow but it will work in a pinch.

Of course, buying the mill was the better choice


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## tmarks11

+++1 on Vactra 2 for the lead screws and bed ways. Enco is a great place to buy Vactra... wait for the 20% coupon.

I keep rust way by squirting oil (Vactra 2) on top of the table when I am done cutting, and wiping it with a paper towel to leave a thin coating on the entire surface.

Look for Enco sales on the Jacob's ball bearing super drill chucks.  I like the 8.5N, 11N, and 14N size (I have the full set...) They have them in their sales catalog frequently (like now in fact).  But then wait until you can stack a 20% off coupon on top of that (which happens once or twice a month).

Buying a 1/4" drill chuck (8.5N) for use with the smaller chucks saves you a lot of headroom (important on a small mill).  A 1/2" or 5/8" chuck is massive, and consumes most of your available z-axis movement.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=479&PMITEM=505-2191

I am not a fan of keyless chucks on a mill.  Too frequently, you end up having to use the "chuck key" to loosen them, as drilling tends to tighten them.  Might as well save a significant amount of money and go straight for a keyed chuck with a better mechanical advantage. Also, keyless chucks tend to be large and consume available headroom.

Draw bar retaining cup?  not required to keep your draw bar in place.  I would leave it off... deucidly annoying to have to get it out of the way to change endmills.


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## wachuko

Eddyde said:


> Congrats on the new mill, it looks like a fine machine. I like your progression up the chain of mills, I went through a similar journey and finally purchased one last Friday (will be posting that saga soon).
> 
> Just for posterity and in no meaning to rain on your parade; You can mill on a drill press, I have done it many times. Ya gotta take light passes and go slow but it will work in a pinch.
> 
> Of course, buying the mill was the better choice



No Sir.  No way to mill with a drill press. Okay!!?  You must use the proper tool... That is how I justified getting the milling machine with the wife and no way I will entertain other "unsafe" alternatives.  

All joking aside, very happy with finally having a milling machine.  I plan to start practicing tonight.


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## wachuko

tmarks11 said:


> +++1 on Vactra 2 for the lead screws and bed ways. Enco is a great place to buy Vactra... wait for the 20% coupon.
> 
> I keep rust way by squirting oil (Vactra 2) on top of the table when I am done cutting, and wiping it with a paper towel to leave a thin coating on the entire surface.
> 
> Look for Enco sales on the Jacob's ball bearing super drill chucks.  I like the 8.5N, 11N, and 14N size (I have the full set...) They have them in their sales catalog frequently (like now in fact).  But then wait until you can stack a 20% off coupon on top of that (which happens once or twice a month).
> 
> Buying a 1/4" drill chuck (8.5N) for use with the smaller chucks saves you a lot of headroom (important on a small mill).  A 1/2" or 5/8" chuck is massive, and consumes most of your available z-axis movement.
> 
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=479&PMITEM=505-2191
> 
> I am not a fan of keyless chucks on a mill.  Too frequently, you end up having to use the "chuck key" to loosen them, as drilling tends to tighten them.  Might as well save a significant amount of money and go straight for a keyed chuck with a better mechanical advantage. Also, keyless chucks tend to be large and consume available headroom.
> 
> Draw bar retaining cup?  not required to keep your draw bar in place.  I would leave it off... decidedly annoying to have to get it out of the way to change endmills.



I got the Vactra 2 at 15% and free shipping.  Should be here Friday.  I will use it to coat the surface of the table to prevent rust.  Cool!

On the drill chuck.  I just could not bear to use what came with the machine... you should have seen it when I first tested it... awful runout.  That is going straight to the trash as I can't see myself using it ever...  I will follow your recommendation and get a smaller chuck... you are correct, the one I got is massive... here, take a look:







But it was integrated to the R8 shank, not that expensive, and runs great.  I will look into getting a smaller one.  Thank you for the advice!


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## tmarks11

That the HHIP 1626 5/8" chuck from Amazon?  How is the run-out on it.  $83 is pretty affordable.


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## wachuko

tmarks11 said:


> That the HHIP 1626 5/8" chuck from Amazon?  How is the run-out on it.  $83 is pretty affordable.



Yes.  That is the one :  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N413T78?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

I will take some time tomorrow to measure runout.  But I have to say, just testing it with a few bits (no drilling yet), it works great.

Yes, I am a newbie...afraid to do anything until the vise gets here... I clamped one of the pieces of aluminum, that I bought to practice, with the clamping kit, but just to test the T-nuts and all that... Still a virgin mill


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## brav65

Common man 


wachuko said:


> Yes.  That is the one :  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N413T78?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
> 
> I will take some time tomorrow to measure runout.  But I have to say, just testing it with a few bits (no drilling yet), it works great.
> 
> Yes, I am a newbie...afraid to do anything until the vise gets here... I clamped one of the pieces of aluminum, that I bought to practice, with the clamping kit, but just to test the T-nuts and all that... Still a virgin mill


, 


light that puppy up and let's see some chips!


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## wachuko

We got chips!!!  Everywhere!!

As recommended, I did several passes.  Taking small amounts of material when cutting...then stopped at .24", measured, and then went for the extra .01"







So the practice cut for getting 1/4" off went great... (also practicing using the gauges...)


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## wachuko

Feels great man!  On the test cut using the aluminum block... at first I forgot to use cutting oil (used WD40 since a lot of folks recommend it when using aluminum)... but I remembered to use it when I did the caliper...

On that piece of aluminum, I practiced with very small increments, then even smaller increments to see what the finish looked like...

When practicing, I kept confusing the knob/wheel that moves the table side ways (X axis) with the one that goes in an out (Y axis)... I learned the importance of setting the table to zero so even if I move the table in the wrong direction, I can move it back to where it is supposed to be.  I had to keep reminding me to not touch the Y axis wheel knob...




I am practicing with the play (can't remember the name for it, backslash??) the table has when you go one way and then have to dial it back... there is a slack... need to figure out how to deal with that...

Man do I love the DRO that the machine has on the Z axis... can't wait to do the setup for the other two axis... yes, I can use what the mill came with, but just the ease of seeing the numbers makes it a lot easier.  Plus zero-ing with just a push of a button...sweet!

What a mess everywhere... I still need to go back to clean all the chips... lol... and the oil... between my sweat (hot garage without a/c here in Florida, and I was sweating like if they were pouring water over my head) and the oil... plus the chips... goodness!

Clamping the part down while making sure that there was nothing in the way of the mill travel... fun.







The table's specs has the t-nuts needed at 7/16" but the ones that came with the kit (I ordered the kit not aware of the different t-nut sizes) that are 1/2" fitted perfectly!  So now I have spare 7/16" t-nuts.  

Learning a lot... will play some more with the materials I have.


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## brav65

wachuko said:


> Feels great man!  On the test cut using the aluminum block... at first I forgot to use cutting oil (used WD40 since a lot of folks recommend it when using aluminum)... but I remembered to use it when I did the caliper...
> 
> On that piece of aluminum, I practiced with very small increments, then even smaller increments to see what the finish looked like...
> 
> When practicing, I kept confusing the knob/wheel that moves the table side ways (X axis) with the one that goes in an out (Y axis)... I learned the importance of setting the table to zero so even if I move the table in the wrong direction, I can move it back to where it is supposed to be.  I had to keep reminding me to not touch the Y axis wheel knob...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am practicing with the play (can't remember the name for it, backslash??) the table has when you go one way and then have to dial it back... there is a slack... need to figure out how to deal with that...
> 
> Man do I love the DRO that the machine has on the Z axis... can't wait to do the setup for the other two axis... yes, I can use what the mill came with, but just the ease of seeing the numbers makes it a lot easier.  Plus zero-ing with just a push of a button...sweet!
> 
> What a mess everywhere... I still need to go back to clean all the chips... lol... and the oil... between my sweat (hot garage without a/c here in Florida, and I was sweating like if they were pouring water over my head) and the oil... plus the chips... goodness!
> 
> Clamping the part down while making sure that there was nothing in the way of the mill travel... fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table's specs has the t-nuts needed at 7/16" but the ones that came with the kit (I ordered the kit not aware of the different t-nut sizes) that are 1/2" fitted perfectly!  So now I have spare 7/16" t-nuts.
> 
> Learning a lot... will play some more with the materials I have.




Nice work! Congrats on your first project!  I find so many little things to use my mill for.  Putting together self assembly items is sooo much easier when you can trim/cut/shave off pieces that were not manufactured to spec.


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## Eddyde

wachuko said:


> When practicing, I kept confusing the knob/wheel that moves the table side ways (X axis) with the one that goes in an out (Y axis)... I learned the importance of setting the table to zero so even if I move the table in the wrong direction, I can move it back to where it is supposed to be.  I had to keep reminding me to not touch the Y axis wheel knob...



Congrats on the new mill looks like a fine piece of machinery. One tip to help with the above problem: lock the unused axis, good practice especially when turning the wrong crank would ruin the work.


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## wachuko

Eddyde said:


> Congrats on the new mill looks like a fine piece of machinery. One tip to help with the above problem: lock the unused axis, good practice especially when turning the wrong crank would ruin the work.



 Completely forgot that I could do that!!! Duh!!


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## zmotorsports

Looks great  and nice to see those chips.

Mike.


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## roadie33

You finally made some chips Wachuko. Congrats.  
Now you'll be wanting to do it all of the time.
I've made about half a dozen new tool holders and a Spindle square so I could get the head square with the table.
That was a PITA because Grizzly has 3 bolts in a hard to reach place under the head behind the spindle that you have to loosen to move it.
Going to be looking for some 5MM Clear PVC sheeting to build a containment area around the table to keep the swarf from flying everywhere.


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## wachuko

Mike,  great idea!   I will look into doing something similar... I am still finding chips everywhere I look 

After doing the DRO, looks like the next tool to buy will be that rotary table... that thing looks to be so versatile.  And I think I have a couple of projects that it can come handy...


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## roadie33

I was thinking the same thing, but I might try a hand at making one first like Mark did. Then maybe the Indexer he built.
I have more time than money, so I try to make most of what I need like a lot of others on here. 
I guess that's why we came to this site. I know that is one of the reasons I did.


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## wachuko

roadie33 said:


> I was thinking the same thing, but I might try a hand at making one first like Mark did. Then maybe the Indexer he built.
> I have more time than money, so I try to make most of what I need like a lot of others on here.
> I guess that's why we came to this site. I know that is one of the reasons I did.



Mark?  Got a link to what he made?


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## roadie33

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/a-dividing-head-anyone-can-build.35098/

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/4-inch-manual-rotary-table.30586/


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## wachuko

Tomorrow I will start to work on the DRO setup...  I printed the box that will be housing the boards.  You can see the blue base in front and the cover is towards the back.


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## wachuko

Controller done!  I will start working on installing all this on the G0704

I know... I get an "F" on routing the wires.. shut up...




Here you can see the Bluetooth module:




and the final product:


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## tmarks11

What tablet are you using for the touch pad?

I like the box.  Android TouchDRO running on a tablet, with an arduino acting as an interface to the scales, and the BT is to communicate with the tablet?

I must have missed it... what brand scales did you buy?


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## wachuko

Here is the list now with links to where I got them from... should have done that from the get go, sorry...

Arduino UNO R3 board with DIP ATmega328P
Sparkfun 500 1/4W Resistor Kit
Wall Adapter Power Supply - 9V DC 650mA
KEDSUM® Arduino Wireless Bluetooth Transceiver Module Slave 4Pin Serial + DuPont Cable
Arduino Proto Shield R3
Alldaymall A88X 7'' inch Quad Core Google Android 4.4 KitKat Tablet
Adafruit USB Mini-B Breakout Boards
iGaging 12" Magnetic Remote Digital Readout
iGaging 24" Magnetic Remote Digital Readout
iGaging 24" Magnetic Remote Digital Readout

Software for the tablet is a free app you download... TouchDRO

Everything is described in detail on Yuriy's page:

http://www.yuriystoys.com/2014/07/anrdoid-dro-step-by-step.html




And if you have access to a 3D printer... this link has the files for the housing that can accommodate all this in style,  ...

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:585501


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## wachuko

tmarks11 said:


> What tablet are you using for the touch pad?
> 
> I like the box.  Android TouchDRO running on a tablet, with an arduino acting as an interface to the scales, and the BT is to communicate with the tablet?
> 
> I must have missed it... what brand scales did you buy?



Correct.  BT is to connect wireless with the tablet.  Works great!


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## kizmit99

Looking good!  Please keep us informed of how it performs for you...  I also have a TouchDRO setup on my G0704 - but mine suffers from fairly severe jumpiness...  Usually it's my X-axis that jumps forward or backwards in .200 increments - it's incredibly frustrating...
A lot of other folks suffered from similar symptoms, but most seemed to have been fixed by adding caps to the scale read heads.  That hasn't helped mine at all.  I suspect my problem is really a bad scale, but I'm loath to purchase more just to find out that isn't the problem.

Anyway - best of luck with yours and remember to show us how you mount them and haw they work on the running mill.


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## wachuko

I need to buy the capacitors...just as a precaution.  Just forgot to do so when I ordered the parts


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## wachuko

Capacitors (0.1uF - suckers come in a 100 piece bag!! anyone need any?  ) - Ordered
Shielding sleeve (1/4" -Techflex Conductive Plastic Sleeving - Black) - Ordered


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## roadie33

Since you've had the DRO for a while  ,how does it work? You happy with it?
I'd like to do the same thing but don't have the skills or right equipment to solder it together.


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## markba633csi

Hey here's a big secret from someone who worked in electronics for many years:  The ratty wiring may work just fine. If you tidy it all up it might not work at all!  You really need an oscilloscope though to check for unwanted oscillations and power supply noise.  Is there an oscilloscope app for tablets?  If not there should be. 
MS


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## kd4gij

Nice mill. I have had my G0704 since grizzly came out with it. I also have the Igaging scales. And the x axes power feed. cranking handles gets old quick.


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## wachuko

roadie33 said:


> Since you've had the DRO for a while  ,how does it work? You happy with it?
> I'd like to do the same thing but don't have the skills or right equipment to solder it together.



I have been lazy... well, really busy with work... so the DRO is ready to go but I have not done the install... I did add the capacitors to help with any noise... and also shielded the cables.


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## wachuko

kd4gij said:


> Nice mill. I have had my G0704 since grizzly came out with it. I also have the Igaging scales. And the x axes power feed. cranking handles gets old quick.





I have not used it much, but I already know that I need that x power feed...


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## wrmiller

I think it was only two weeks or so after getting my pm25 that I was on the Griz site ordering that power feed. Cranking the x-axis wheel on long cuts gets old real fast. Not to mention it (power feed) makes for better finishes when cutting in X.


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## markba633csi

One of the Grizzly power feeds fits the PM25 mill?   Accessory or replacement part?
MS


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## wrmiller

Accessory. The G0704 power feed fits my PM25, but I have one of the last of the older, gear driven mills. I don't know if the table is the same on the new version. If it is, it will work. Matt at PM could answer this question for you.


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## kd4gij

This is the one.

http://grizzly23-px.rtrk.ca/products/Power-Feed-for-G0704/T23010


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## wachuko

Note to self... stop working with the machine at 2am... you are tired and can overlook things and make stupid mistakes...

I ran a milling flute into my bed.... forgot to pay attention to how deep I was inserting the tool into the slot in the part that I was enlarging...   sooo stupid on my part...

Now I get to order a new bed for my machine...   my wall with parts/mistakes of shame is getting full...


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## wachuko

Forgot to include the photos of the damage...


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## DavidR8

Well that sucks. 
How deep is the damage?
I’m no expert but is it possible that it won’t make any difference because the damage will be spanned by the vise?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## wachuko

DavidR8 said:


> Well that sucks.
> How deep is the damage?
> I’m no expert but is it possible that it won’t make any difference because the damage will be spanned by the vise?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



It probably does not matter because, as you mentioned, it will be covered by the vise (I had moved the vise to the extreme left to work on that extra saddle I ordered for modification of where the ballscrew goes...   and there are no burs creating a raise there...  So I could just leave it there as a reminder to always double check position of my tool...

But man, the shame is overwhelming, lol...  I want it gone... I have a new one on my wishlist in the Grizzly website...  $237.49 with shipping...









						TABLE at Grizzly.com
					

Grizzly Industrial, Inc. is a national retail and internet company providing a wide variety of high-quality woodworking and metalworking machinery, power tools, hand tools and accessories.  By selling directly to end users we provide the best quality products at the best price to professionals...




					www.grizzly.com
				




I have time to contemplate the universe and meditate on this while the rest of the parts for the CNC conversion get here...


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## DavidR8

Here there is no shame in mistakes, only learning!


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## Aukai

When my G0755 was very new I rattled an end mill real bad. I hit the stop, reset the speed, and feed, and restarted, the end mill had pulled out of the collet, and dug a very nice, oil retaining ditch. I stoned it to make sure it was flat, and ordered a 600.00 replacement table that is still leaning against the wall several years later.

Oh, this is the first time I've confessed to that too.


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