# Delta Dp-600 Drill Press Restoration (photo Intensive)



## GarageGuy (Jun 5, 2016)

I just finished restoring a 1956 Delta DP-600 drill press.  A friend found it at an estate sale.  It was the last day of the sale, and this drill press was so ugly that no one wanted it.  I got it for $65.

This is my first restoration thread, so let me know if I didn't do it correctly.







I had to haul it out of an old barn on a hand cart.  On the way out the door there was a 6" tall threshold, and then a 6" drop back to ground level.  Coming down off the threshold the hand cart bounced and the drill press tumbled off.  I jumped out of the way and let it fall into the grass.  One of the bars on the handle broke off, but that's an easy fix so I wasn't concerned.  Just happy to get it out without damage to life and limb.






I hauled it home in the back of my minivan and started to disassemble it.





This machine was so rusty, it was a tetanus shot waiting to happen.  Someone painted a hideous green over the original Delta gray, and that had to go.  The green paint was so bad it came off in sheets in several places.  I wire brushed everything with an angle grinder and twisted knot wire brush so the green paint wouldn't plug up my sand blast cabinet.







Then sand blasted, primed, and painted with Rustoleum Machine Dark Gray paint.














I also put new bearings in the spindle and in the electric motor so it would run as good as it looked.




The table sits on a 3 1/2" bearing so it will swivel easily even though it is very heavy.  That bearing was crushed and all but two balls were missing.  I straightened the bent bearing housing and ordered new 3/8" ball bearings to rebuild it with.







I cleaned, painted, and put the new bearings in the motor.






I'm at the photo limit for this message.  Continued...

GG


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## GarageGuy (Jun 5, 2016)

Continued...






I put a new electrical cord and power switch on it.  There was no power switch before, and all I had was a household style light switch, but it turned out OK.  Now it looks and runs just like brand new!







Should last at least another 60 years now!

GG


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## GarageGuy (Jun 5, 2016)

The drill press was $65, the paint and primer were $55, and the new bearings were $150.  The power cord, switch, and a new belt were $30, so I have a grand total of $300 in it.  I put a 1/2" keyless drill chuck on it, but I already had that so I didn't count it in the cost.

It has 5 spindle speeds.  684, 1124, 1790, 2815, and 4640.  I work mainly with metal, so I'll be working with the two slowest speeds almost all the time.

Here is a video of it running at the highest speed:






GG


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jun 5, 2016)

that's a beauty, well done!


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## jpfabricator (Jun 5, 2016)

Looks great! Some old school pinstriping would make it look awsome!

Sent from somewhere in East Texas by Jake Parker!


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## Silverbullet (Jun 5, 2016)

Very nice job , hey wanta come help with mine? Mines the same vintage but with the power feed. Right now ive got 4 old machines to restore plus a garage to clean out and into a storage container. Ive been forever trying to sell things made up my mind to just buy a container. Hope you have many years of service with it. Just be safe in all you do. It sucks to be messed up I  know. How come all machines look great in gray?


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## GarageGuy (Jun 5, 2016)

The name plate on the front was missing, and had been replaced with a piece of aluminum from what looked like an old John Deere sign.  I have a friend in the graphics industry who says he can reproduce the original artwork on the name plate for me.  That will make the front of the machine look much more original.  Can't wait to see what he can do.

GG


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## RandyM (Jun 6, 2016)

Fantastic, very well done GG!


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## EmilioG (Jun 9, 2016)

Good job! I was gifted a Delta that looks just like this one. I have to get it home to do a R&R.
Does your Delta have a JT spindle or the threaded type? Thanks


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## GarageGuy (Jun 9, 2016)

EmilioG said:


> Good job! I was gifted a Delta that looks just like this one. I have to get it home to do a R&R.
> Does your Delta have a JT spindle or the threaded type? Thanks


Mine has a JT-33 taper on the spindle.  I also have a DP-220 drill press, and it has a JT-33 tapered spindle as well.

Sent using Tapatalk from someplace deep inside the garage


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## calstar (Jun 30, 2016)

Great work, don't be afraid to get it dirty!  Brian


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## GarageGuy (Jul 1, 2016)

calstar said:


> Great work, don't be afraid to get it dirty!  Brian



To tell the truth, I can't WAIT to get it dirty.  My shop is a working shop, and the drill press is far and away the prettiest thing I own.  Gotta get it used so it looks like everything else (but still works like new).  

GG


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## GarageGuy (Jul 25, 2016)

My friend, the graphic artist, came through for me on a replacement name plate.  The original name plate had been removed and replaced with a plain piece of aluminum.  Unfortunately, the only artwork available for the name plate was very low resolution, and he couldn't make a good color replica from it.  He made an engraved stainless steel name plate for me instead.  I like it!

GG


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## ChipsAlloy! (Aug 2, 2016)

Very nice


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## randyjaco (Aug 3, 2016)

Plus whatever 
Great work 

Randy


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## Tony Wells (Aug 3, 2016)

That turned out really well. You should be proud. I didn't see any area you skimped on, so like you said....many more years of service, and the satisfaction that you gave it a new life.


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## RHayes (Aug 13, 2016)

Nice work.  This caught my I as I also recently acquired one.  Mine had the long #2 MT spindle and was 3 ph.  All I have in it  is a VFD and keyed chuck and like it a lot.  My table is a little bit out front to back and I was wondering if you noticed any way to adjust this when you had yours apart?


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## wawoodman (Aug 13, 2016)

Very nice job!


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## EmilioG (Dec 10, 2016)

Where can I buy the spindle bearings for a similar machine?  Are other parts available?  I'm taking ownership of a similar
Delta DP soon and would also like to tackle a complete restoration. Thanks. Great work!  Did you check the spindle TIR?


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## GarageGuy (Dec 11, 2016)

I bought my bearings at: Bearing Headquarters in Elk Grove, IL.  The number is: 847-640-6490.  Talk to Jay.  The bearings are unusual, but available.  It's an older style, and if you order by numbers alone it won't be what you want.  Give Jay the number and close-up photos of the bearing.  If you tell him it's for a Delta drill press, he may even remember mine.  Good luck with your project!

Sent using Tapatalk from someplace deep inside the garage


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## GarageGuy (Dec 14, 2016)

RHayes said:


> Nice work.  This caught my I as I also recently acquired one.  Mine had the long #2 MT spindle and was 3 ph.  All I have in it  is a VFD and keyed chuck and like it a lot.  My table is a little bit out front to back and I was wondering if you noticed any way to adjust this when you had yours apart?



My apologies, I didn't see your post until now.  I didn't see any way of adjusting the table from front to back on mine.  It just has a bolt going through to hold the table to the post bracket.  I'm sure if you took it apart it could be shimmed, filed, or ground back into alignment unless it has been badly bent.  I would try shimming first as it's the least destructive.

GG


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## jhuston (Dec 24, 2016)

Nicely done; I have a 17-210 ( slow speed pulleys, #2 Morse taper) 600 series, and it's hands down the best drill press I've personally used. If you run across a second generation 17" Delta with the "T"-slotted table, it can be bolted right on the older 17" and opens up a lot of workholding options. I've added that table to mine, and installed a cut down Delta Unisaw fence, which is another underrated accessory for a drill press.
You're going to really enjoy that drill press and all it can do.
-James Huston


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## GarageGuy (Dec 24, 2016)

I wish I had the slow speed pulleys.  This one has high speed pulleys and is better suited for wood working.  The slowest speed is good for metal as long as the drill bits are less than 1/2".  Maybe someday I'll run across a set of low speed pulleys, or better yet, someone who wants to trade.  

GG


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## 12bolts (Jan 14, 2017)

Great resto GG. It looks really nice. Is there any room to fit an idler pulley in there to slow it down. Even at 684 RPM you will find that too fast for some work.

Cheers Phil


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## GarageGuy (Jan 14, 2017)

12bolts said:


> Great resto GG. It looks really nice. Is there any room to fit an idler pulley in there to slow it down. Even at 684 RPM you will find that too fast for some work.



Thank you!  I think there should be enough space to do that, and someday I would like to try it.  About 1/3 of the current speed would be good for most of the metal work I do.  I think the tricky part will be getting the exact matching pulley as an idler so you don't have to re-adjust the motor each time you change the speed to maintain proper belt tension.   Right now the pulleys are a perfect match, and you can use any of the 5 speeds by just walking the belt up or down the pulleys without adjusting the motor.  Quick and easy!

GG


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## 12bolts (Jan 14, 2017)

If you reused the motor pulley as the idler and just put a single small pulley on the motor shaft you could use that to drive the largest diameter on the idler. That would drop your RPM considerably and still leave you with matched pulleys. You would lose one speed 'tho. Unless you added an extra single large dia. pulley to the idler as well.
Personally, my drill press has 12 speeds, but I rarely change it.

Cheers Phil


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## GarageGuy (Jan 14, 2017)

12bolts said:


> If you reused the motor pulley as the idler and just put a single small pulley on the motor shaft you could use that to drive the largest diameter on the idler. That would drop your RPM considerably and still leave you with matched pulleys. You would lose one speed 'tho. Unless you added an extra single large dia. pulley to the idler as well.
> Personally, my drill press has 12 speeds, but I rarely change it.



That's a great idea.  I hadn't thought of doing it that way, but that would be much quicker and easier than what I was thinking.  The pulley will come off the motor easy because I used anti-seize when I put it back together.  I had to fight to get it off for the rebuild, and vowed I wouldn't let that happen again 50 years from now!  

GG


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## GarageGuy (Apr 4, 2017)

12bolts, I took your advice and moved the matching pulley to the center column, and got another step pulley from a friend for the motor.  It works like a charm!  Now I have 283 RPM on the spindle instead of 684 RPM.   Here is the build:


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## GarageGuy (Apr 4, 2017)

Here is a video of it running:


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## 56type (Jun 28, 2017)

Greta job on the resto. !! I just picked up this one and had no idea what to do with it til I saw this thread. Have no idea what year/model this on is since only the serial# plate & "DP 220" cast into the head gave me any clue. Searching for any parts diagrams so I can do a full resto. on it. Some pics.....


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## CluelessNewB (Jun 28, 2017)

This link will help you  a bit with Delta serial numbers:
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx


And the manual:
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/3231.pdf

Catalog:
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/1696.pdf


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## 56type (Jun 28, 2017)

CluelessNewB said:


> This link will help you  a bit with Delta serial numbers:
> http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks for the links !! Couldn't find my serial# in the chart so I'm guessing it was made earlier than '42 ?? Gotta clean off the workbench & get this thing apart to start the restoration. Might try using the HF 90-amp flux core wire welder on low setting with slow wire speed to fill the holes in the table if it won'y cause it to warp, think the heat would be low enough (??)


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## CluelessNewB (Jun 28, 2017)

"I'm guessing it was made earlier than '42 ?"

That would be my guess also. ​


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## GarageGuy (Jun 28, 2017)

56type said:


> Greta job on the resto. !! I just picked up this one and had no idea what to do with it til I saw this thread. Have no idea what year/model this on is since only the serial# plate & "DP 220" cast into the head gave me any clue. Searching for any parts diagrams so I can do a full resto. on it.



Thanks!  I had a DP-220 before I bought my DP-600.  They are good machines.  I wouldn't try to weld up the pockmarks in the table.  You could cause cracking in the cast iron and actually make it worse.  The holes in your table appear to be shallow and don't look like they would structurally weaken the table.  I've seen tables that were nearly cut in half by drill marks.  Just tell folks that your drill was manufactured before WW2, and during the next 77 years only 3 (or however many holes there are) people were stupid enough to drill into the table.

Spindle bearings are available, but it will take a good bearing guy to know what to order.  The bearings in mine are called "felt seal bearings" even though felt seals were no longer used at the time.  The seals are steel, but the spacing and exact shape of the bearing will match the originals, and they will fit right.  Going by bearing number alone will get the wrong ones.

New spindle bearings and new motor bearings will make it run as smooth and true as it did when it was new.  Quiet, too.  It looks a little intimidating, but take some photos as you disassemble it to help you put it back together the same way.  It wasn't a difficult job.

Good luck!

GG


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## 56type (Jun 28, 2017)

GarageGuy said:


> Thanks!  I had a DP-220 before I bought my DP-600.  They are good machines.  I wouldn't try to weld up the pockmarks in the table.  You could cause cracking in the cast iron and actually make it worse.  The holes in your table appear to be shallow and don't look like they would structurally weaken the table.  I've seen tables that were nearly cut in half by drill marks.  Just tell folks that your drill was manufactured before WW2, and during the next 77 years only 3 (or however many holes there are) people were stupid enough to drill into the table.
> 
> Spindle bearings are available, but it will take a good bearing guy to know what to order.  The bearings in mine are called "felt seal bearings" even though felt seals were no longer used at the time.  The seals are steel, but the spacing and exact shape of the bearing will match the originals, and they will fit right.  Going by bearing number alone will get the wrong ones.
> 
> ...



Thanks. I got it free so I can put some $$ into it without too much worry. It "seems" solid enough just trying to flex the moving parts by hand. I dug some crud out of one of the 6 holes to check the depth, only worry is the arc the series of holes makes right up to the edge of the slot in the table. Maybe I'll look into what epoxy-type products are available for this type of repair...Just don't want a crack to develop along that series of holes. I did plug it in and the motor does run.


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## GarageGuy (Jun 28, 2017)

There is something very satisfying about having an old machine that works like new.  

"JB Weld" epoxy is my favorite, and will fill the holes.  If you get the kind for metal, I think it is gray in color.  The table won't crack because of six small holes, so I wouldn't worry about that.  This would simply be a cosmetic repair.

GG


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## 56type (Jun 30, 2017)

GG,

Not to hi-jack your thread...But do you have any idea how the spindle pulley is removed on the DP220 ?? Took mine apart today (man, that thing is HEAVY) and couldn't find any set screws or any indication of how to remove it. I'd post some pics but photobucket has put a stop to that. I'd like to get the spindle pulley off in order to get at the bearings and repaint everything back to stock colors. It still seems to have the original working motor according to the motor tag. I see some evapo-rust and a wire brush in my immediate future, along with a can of that Rustoleum gray paint. Thanks.


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## RandyM (Jun 30, 2017)

56type said:


> GG,
> 
> Not to hi-jack your thread...But do you have any idea how the spindle pulley is removed on the DP220 ?? Took mine apart today (man, that thing is HEAVY) and couldn't find any set screws or any indication of how to remove it. *I'd post some pics but photobucket has put a stop to that*. I'd like to get the spindle pulley off in order to get at the bearings and repaint everything back to stock colors. It still seems to have the original working motor according to the motor tag. I see some evapo-rust and a wire brush in my immediate future, along with a can of that Rustoleum gray paint. Thanks.



You can still post pics directly to the site, which is highly preferred.


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## GarageGuy (Jun 30, 2017)

56type said:


> GG,
> 
> Not to hi-jack your thread...But do you have any idea how the spindle pulley is removed on the DP220 ?? Took mine apart today (man, that thing is HEAVY) and couldn't find any set screws or any indication of how to remove it. I'd post some pics but photobucket has put a stop to that. I'd like to get the spindle pulley off in order to get at the bearings and repaint everything back to stock colors. It still seems to have the original working motor according to the motor tag. I see some evapo-rust and a wire brush in my immediate future, along with a can of that Rustoleum gray paint. Thanks.



Mine has a key and set screw holding the motor pulley in place.  It was very difficult to remove.  I soaked it with PB Blaster daily for two weeks and had to use a gear puller to get it off the shaft.  I used plenty of anti-seize when I put it back together.

White vinegar works as good as Evapo-Rust, and is much cheaper.  Don't leave anything in vinegar overnight.  It will remove metal if you leave it in too long.  Usually 3-6 hours will do the job.

I became a big fan of Rustoleum's "Professional" series gray primer and machinery dark gray paint.  Sometimes it takes a day or two (depending on the humidity) for it to fully cure into a hard finish, but it has been very durable and has not chipped anywhere yet.  I restored a couple of 6" Bridgeport milling vises, and the finish is also very oil resistant.

GG


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## 56type (Jun 30, 2017)

GarageGuy said:


> Mine has a key and set screw holding the motor pulley in place.  It was very difficult to remove.  I soaked it with PB Blaster daily for two weeks and had to use a gear puller to get it off the shaft.  I used plenty of anti-seize when I put it back together.
> 
> White vinegar works as good as Evapo-Rust, and is much cheaper.  Don't leave anything in vinegar overnight.  It will remove metal if you leave it in too long.  Usually 3-6 hours will do the job.
> 
> ...


I saw the pulley set screw on the motor pulley but can't seem t find anything similar on the spindle pulley. There was a single bolt & washer in the head just below pulley in the front behind the "conehead" pulley shield. Removing it didn't seem to effect anything though. Need to get it removed so I can clean that area and ready it for paint. I noticed when taking things apart that the machine's stock color seems to be a medium gray, I'll give the Rustoleum a try since you have had such good luck with it and it sounds durable. My return spring for the quill is broken too, though it looks as if there's enough spring material in there to make a few springs so I may try to bend the end and fit it back into the spring slot on the quill handle assembly.

 I've got a full can of PB Blaster ready to go. I may use the gloss black appliance epoxy on the motor parts and bake it, since it's very durable as a firearms finish when baked at 450 degrees for about an hour. Turns out a nice satin black. I also considered boiling a few pieces to turn the red oxide (rust) into black oxide.  Thanks for the tip on the white vinegar, I'll get a bath of it going as soon as I have the time to monitor it to make sure the parts are removed and rinsed as soon as they're done.


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## GarageGuy (Jun 30, 2017)

56type said:


> I saw the pulley set screw on the motor pulley but can't seem t find anything similar on the spindle pulley. There was a single bolt & washer in the head just below pulley in the front behind the "conehead" pulley shield. Removing it didn't seem to effect anything though. Need to get it removed so I can clean that area and ready it for paint.



The spindle pulley on my DP-600 has a bolted cap on top, and I think there was a key as well.  I didn't have a set screw on the spindle pulley, and it came off much easier than the motor pulley did.



56type said:


> I noticed when taking things apart that the machine's stock color seems to be a medium gray, I'll give the Rustoleum a try since you have had such good luck with it and it sounds durable.



The Rustoleum professional machinery dark gray was the closest I could find to the original color without having something custom mixed.  You're right, the original paint was a slightly lighter shade of gray.



56type said:


> My return spring for the quill is broken too, though it looks as if there's enough spring material in there to make a few springs so I may try to bend the end and fit it back into the spring slot on the quill handle assembly.



That's exactly what I would try.  If it doesn't work, it was broken anyway.  I haven't looked for the spring, but parts can be found on eBay.



56type said:


> Thanks for the tip on the white vinegar, I'll get a bath of it going as soon as I have the time to monitor it to make sure the parts are removed and rinsed as soon as they're done.



mrpete222 (tubalcain) has an excellent YouTube channel, and he has done several videos on rust removal.  The last one was a side-by-side comparison between 6 or 7 popular rust removers.  Well worth watching.

GG


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## 56type (Jun 30, 2017)

Been watching a few of mrpete222 vids lately, I'll look up the ones on rust removal...The DP220 has a dual keyed collar in the pulley that the spindle rides in when assembled, so it's turning into a real head scratcher. Can't find any hardware on it to get it to come off. If I can figure out how to post pics directly from my PC I'd put a few up for clarification...


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## 56type (Jun 30, 2017)

Well I just strolled out to the garage and found the problem...What I thought to be rivets were actually slotted screw heads with the slots filled in with remnants of the mud-dauber wasp nests I had knocked out of there earlier. Filled in like that they resembled small rivets LOL. The large bearing under the spindle pulley is another matter along with the plate the screws go thru to mount it to the pulley...


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## 56type (Jul 3, 2017)

EmilioG said:


> Where can I buy the spindle bearings for a similar machine?  Are other parts available?  I'm taking ownership of a similar
> Delta DP soon and would also like to tackle a complete restoration. Thanks. Great work!  Did you check the spindle TIR?



This might be of some help.....http://www.hammerscale.com/HTML/Products/DrillPress/DP220B.html


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## CrankyOldMan (Aug 24, 2017)

Awesome job! I just scored a '42 in "unknown working condition" for $16. The original front pulley grenaded (some of the shrapnel was still in the head) and was never replaced. No idea if the motor works since they didn't have power where I picked it up, but for $16 I can get a brand new motor and still be ahead.

Anyone have spare parts for a floor model with power feed? I'm missing the back half of the power feed and the front main pulley.


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## Silverbullet (Aug 24, 2017)

Hi cranky, I have a 20" Rockwell delta waiting my attention. I did pickup to gear boxes that raise the head and table. I need to make and or repair the gears that mesh with the rack. It has the older style front facing power feed. It's covered waiting with several others . Ill be laid up for sure till Xmas the way it's going. Good luck with your press the pulleys can be found on eBay. Wish mine was that cheap .I'd have bought it for sure.


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## Wxm88 (Feb 3, 2018)

Do you happen to know the handle bar thread pitch (on the quill side)?


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## EmilioG (Feb 4, 2018)

How difficult was it to change the spindle and quill bearings? The old manual states that special tools are needed?


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## GarageGuy (Feb 5, 2018)

Wxm88 said:


> Do you happen to know the handle bar thread pitch (on the quill side)?



Not sure I understand.  My handle bar is keyed with a set screw.

Thanks!

GG


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## GarageGuy (Feb 5, 2018)

EmilioG said:


> How difficult was it to change the spindle and quill bearings? The old manual states that special tools are needed?



It was a pretty good job.  Everything goes in and out in a specific order.  I don't have any special tools (that I know of).  The tricky part was getting the right bearings.  The numbers on the original bearings cross over to several different kinds of new bearings.  I showed them to my bearing guy, and he said they were called "felt seal bearings".  They have steel shields on the bearings, but this style of bearing is the same shape and size as earlier bearings that had felt seals.  He found new ones just fine, but if I remember correctly they were about $120 for the set of four needed.  If you can't find the right bearings, call Jay at Bearing Headquarters in Elk Grove Village, IL.


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## NY Delta (Apr 9, 2018)

Good evening.  I just stumbled on this thread and I am trying to help my elderly father with his DP-600.  A couple of weeks ago his return spring broke and when it did, the housing broke as well.  We have a replacement from ebay but I am struggling on the correct process to remove the broken housing and install the new one.  It appears from what I have seen, I need to remove the adjustment screw that is located on the bottom surface.  If I do, will the old assy pull out so I can install a new one and reinstall the screw?  Also do I need to preload the spring at all or just install it and adjust with the screw?  I am sorry for the obvious questions but I am trying to help AND keep him from getting hurt at 93 years old.


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## GarageGuy (Apr 10, 2018)

NY Delta said:


> We have a replacement from ebay but I am struggling on the correct process to remove the broken housing and install the new one.  It appears from what I have seen, I need to remove the adjustment screw that is located on the bottom surface.  If I do, will the old assy pull out so I can install a new one and reinstall the screw?  Also do I need to preload the spring at all or just install it and adjust with the screw?  I am sorry for the obvious questions but I am trying to help AND keep him from getting hurt at 93 years old.



In all honesty, I rebuilt it almost two years ago and don't remember.  I'll have to take a look at it again to refresh my memory and get back to you.  

GG


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## NY Delta (Apr 10, 2018)

GarageGuy said:


> In all honesty, I rebuilt it almost two years ago and don't remember.  I'll have to take a look at it again to refresh my memory and get back to you.
> 
> GG


Thank you sooo much.


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## Silverbullet (Apr 10, 2018)

I think the cover has to be removed to pull the spring out. The spring housing holds the spring , it has to be removed with it broken it may be dangerous if it's still tensioned. Usually the cover is turned to tension the spring , then locked in with the cover bolt or screw. The spring has a notch or slot in it to mount to the shaft this allows you to have the spring in its case to mount it . It's not hard to do but be carefully till it's hooked on the shaft and the bolts started through the case , after its hooked up wind the spring to lift the spindle , I like one turn beyond its full lift to have enough tension to return the spindle up wards . It shouldn't have to much upwards pressure the spindle should lift not snap upwards.


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## NY Delta (Apr 11, 2018)

Silverbullet said:


> I think the cover has to be removed to pull the spring out. The spring housing holds the spring , it has to be removed with it broken it may be dangerous if it's still tensioned. Usually the cover is turned to tension the spring , then locked in with the cover bolt or screw. The spring has a notch or slot in it to mount to the shaft this allows you to have the spring in its case to mount it . It's not hard to do but be carefully till it's hooked on the shaft and the bolts started through the case , after its hooked up wind the spring to lift the spindle , I like one turn beyond its full lift to have enough tension to return the spindle up wards . It shouldn't have to much upwards pressure the spindle should lift not snap upwards.



I'm not sure if this will work on the older DP-600 models but will give it a try.  They have an adjustment screw that screws in from the bottom of the drill housing that contacts the spring housing where there is a "geared" areas.  It then does the adjustment of the spring.  Possibly you do this first and then the screw provides for a fine adjustment, I'm just not sure.  I sure will try it along with any other ideas.  Thank you!


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## NY Delta (Apr 12, 2018)

Silverbullet said:


> I think the cover has to be removed to pull the spring out. The spring housing holds the spring , it has to be removed with it broken it may be dangerous if it's still tensioned. Usually the cover is turned to tension the spring , then locked in with the cover bolt or screw. The spring has a notch or slot in it to mount to the shaft this allows you to have the spring in its case to mount it . It's not hard to do but be carefully till it's hooked on the shaft and the bolts started through the case , after its hooked up wind the spring to lift the spindle , I like one turn beyond its full lift to have enough tension to return the spindle up wards . It shouldn't have to much upwards pressure the spindle should lift not snap upwards.



THank you again for the advice.  If you think of anything more, please let me know.


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## NY Delta (Apr 12, 2018)

GarageGuy said:


> In all honesty, I rebuilt it almost two years ago and don't remember.  I'll have to take a look at it again to refresh my memory and get back to you.
> 
> GG



Hate to ask but I was wondering if you have had any chance to take a look.  I got the screw and adjuster out tonight.  The housing is not moving but may just need some encouragement to tap it out.  I want to try and install the new housing and spring Sunday so any advice is greatly appreciated.


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## GarageGuy (Apr 13, 2018)

Just got a chance to look at it a few minutes ago.  There are a couple of different styles, but on mine there is a worm gear and locking screw on the back side of the shaft.  I think you loosen the locking screw (top side on mine), then turn the worm gear from the bottom to decrease spring tension until it is fully released.  Once it is fully released, the worm gear will drop out.  The worm gear must be out before you can remove the main housing.  Then remove the nut on the shaft that goes up against the spring housing and slide the housing off.  Reverse to reassemble.  I hope this helps.

GG


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## NY Delta (Apr 13, 2018)

GarageGuy said:


> Just got a chance to look at it a few minutes ago.  There are a couple of different styles, but on mine there is a worm gear and locking screw on the back side of the shaft.  I think you loosen the locking screw (top side on mine), then turn the worm gear from the bottom to decrease spring tension until it is fully released.  Once it is fully released, the worm gear will drop out.  The worm gear must be out before you can remove the main housing.  Then remove the nut on the shaft that goes up against the spring housing and slide the housing off.  Reverse to reassemble.  I hope this helps.
> 
> GG


Thank you.  That is exactly the same as mine.  I have the worm gear out and will try tapping the case out tomorrow.  Hopefully that works.  I am amazed there is enough adjustment in the worm gear to tighten it.  I had thought you need to preload first but now I assume the gear goes in and you can just keep turning it until it is wound enough.  We will see Sunday!  Thank you again for the advice.


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## GarageGuy (Apr 13, 2018)

The worm gear will spin many revolutions to tighten or loosen.  The screw on top locks it so it can't move once you have it where you want it.  Line up your pointer and housing to the zero mark on the scale before you start to reassemble.  Near as I can remember, that's how it worked.

GG


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## NY Delta (Apr 13, 2018)

GarageGuy said:


> The worm gear will spin many revolutions to tighten or loosen.  The screw on top locks it so it can't move once you have it where you want it.  Line up your pointer and housing to the zero mark on the scale before you start to reassemble.  Near as I can remember, that's how it worked.
> 
> GG


Perfect.  Thank you again


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## cam (Dec 9, 2020)

Nice build.  Just started taking mine apart today.  I need bearings for sure and a couple other things I see on the bay.  Cool build on the pulley setup.  I might need that.  that little factory pulley setup is pricey.


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