# My Grizzly GO765



## Sitting on Blocks Racing

So i got my first metal lathe in the mail the past Monday...shipped fast.  thought some would like to see what they get if they are looking at this lathe

Came double boxed with the inner box surrounded by blue insulation.




View of inside of box




Some movement in shipping but no apparent damage


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

Despite being double boxed and with no apparent damage to either box there was a little damage to the chip pan.   I emailed Grizzly Tues night and had a call within 24 hours and they are shipping me a new pan.   i just need to send a picture.  it's minor but i keep my tools forever and like to keep them in good shape.





I also paid for lift gate service due to occasional back issues.  The truck driver pretty much just handed me the box...I mentioned this in my email to Grizzly service and they said that was their mistake.   the didn't make a not to the shipping company.  So needless to say Grizzly was more than willing to refund my money for the service not used.

It came with a light coat of rust prohibitor and after a couple hours of dis-assembly and cleaning with WD40 she was good to go.   I will say it came with all the gibs well adjusted and no slop in any of the components.  Probably could have just started turning parts.







Here's the part that come with the lathe


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

Few additional comments:
-The manual is really nice (1/4" thick) and explains the break in and operation of the lathe well.
-There was garbage in the tool post lock down knob.   I had to run a thread chaser down the hole to free it up.
-The power feed direction knob is slightly off.   Neutral isn't really neutral but I'm going to play with that a little.

I don't have a live center or center drills so I couldn't do much but I did run a couple of passes on a short aluminum bar and it seems to cut/face really nice when compared to the HF machine I borrowed from a friend.

Grizzly customer service has been great so far...lady even asked if I hurt my back or not.  8)

More updates to come after my live center comes tomorrow....if people are interested


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## mattthemuppet2

you know, I'm really rather impressed by the look of that lathe. I didn't realise you could get a mini-lathe with a reversible leadscrew (so you can thread out from a bore with the threading tool upside down) and cam lock tailstock. Is the hi-lo range a true back gear? The swing to bed length also looks in good proportion too.

It'll be interesting to see how you get on with it and your impressions after you've used it some.


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

I'm not sure what you mean by true back gear?

The cam lock tail stock is pretty nice.   I'm going to put a longer lever on it cause the access is a little auckward.

The box is labled 7x16 which is funny.   I think if I got a normal bolt-style locking tailstock, it would turn a 16" part.


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## wrmiller

Congrats on the lathe!

It's kinda stupid really, but many who knock these little lathes have never worked on one. 

I had the Micro Mark 7x16 which is basically the same machine without the two speed head and did some rather impressive (if I say so myself)work on the little guy. You do have to get a little creative sometimes on larger parts, but I enjoyed the challenge. Have fun with that thing. )


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## darkzero

Congrats! The 7x lathes are very capable especially for their size. If they weren't they wouldn't be so popular & wouldn't have been around for so long. There are so many mods out there for mini lathes & some of the most creative lathe mods & created by mini lathe users.

Even though I have a 12x36 now, I still think about getting a 7x10 lathe so I can have a mobile lathe that I can take somewhere to use if needed.


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## leroy

Congrats looks like a really neat machine.


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## mattthemuppet2

Not sure if it's the right term or not, but a change in spindle speed by changing the gearing between the motor and spindle, rather than changing the motor speed. A lot of older lathes do this by using the spindle pulley to turn a counter shaft which then turns the spindle. Lowers speed but increases torque.

What's the lowest spindle speed on your lathe?


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## Baithog

mattthemuppet said:


> Not sure if it's the right term or not, but a change in spindle speed by changing the gearing between the motor and spindle, rather than changing the motor speed. A lot of older lathes do this by using the spindle pulley to turn a counter shaft which then turns the spindle. Lowers speed but increases torque.
> 
> What's the lowest spindle speed on your lathe?



The Seig mini lathes have a two speed gear box in the head. No counter shaft or belts to mess with. The lowest speed on my old mini lathe was somewhere in the neighborhood of 15 rpm, but the torque at that speed is lacking and the controller tended to hunt a little. It really isn't meant to turn large diameter stuff any way.


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

Low gear is about 15 or 20 rpm to about 900.   High speed was a little over 2000.   I think the high sides will increase as it breaks in.   When I first turned it on during the break in procedure, top speed was about 840 in low.

I made a new tail stock lock handle and noticed some taper.  The tail stock is a little high so I need to work on that.

I already have a 5" 3 jaw chuck to go with it.   I need recommendation on a 4 jaw.


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## wrmiller

Sitting on Blocks Racing said:


> Low gear is about 15 or 20 rpm to about 900.   High speed was a little over 2000.   I think the high sides will increase as it breaks in.   When I first turned it on during the break in procedure, top speed was about 840 in low.
> 
> I made a new tail stock lock handle and noticed some taper.  The tail stock is a little high so I need to work on that.
> 
> I already have a 5" 3 jaw chuck to go with it.   I need recommendation on a 4 jaw.



Had the same problem with my tailstock. Instead of dealing with the v-way, I took a little off the upper/lower interface. 

And FWIW, I had good luck with my 4-jaw that I bought from LMS.


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

Simple first project I guess...8)  But it's alot easier to operate the tailstock.


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

Got my 3" chuck bored out to 20mm the other day.   Now I'm working on a hand wheel setup for the head stock for tapping/die cutting threads.   I think I can also make a indexing setup out of it as well....


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## mattthemuppet2

nice work! On the tapping handle front, you may be able to repurpose an old bike's quill stem (for either 1" or 1 1/8OD steerers) as they have a neat sliding/ sloped plug on the bottom to hold the stem tight inside the steerer. Either that or a tapered plug with slit outer tube (deansphotographica.com had one, but I can't find it right now) would work.


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

the bike neck is a good idea.   I think I'm going to go with the slit tube with tapered plug cause there more machining to practice with.  8)

I did order a QCTP, boring bars, some HSS tool blanks and a parting blade from LMS today to get some more tooling going.   Sold sold transmission part this week so have a little spending cash.


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

Well crap...broke the shaft gear driven from the motor belt.    Drilling a hole...apparently I jump up too many sizes.


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## tmarks11

Sitting on Blocks Racing said:


> ...broke the shaft gear...



That the plastic gear?  Order plenty of spares when you buy a replacement.  

Better to strip that gear then damage something important.


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

Yeah I ordered 2 gears, a belt and the plastic motor gear from LMS.  8)


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

Did some work last week to line up the tailstock after dial indicating the ram.  Shimmed up the rear to bring it in line.








New tooling came in Friday from LMS!   The replacement gears come in today ( they where shipped slower mail to save me a few bucks...nice but I wanted them quicker) so I JB welded the broken gear so it I could try out the new tools.   The glued gear is still holding.   8)



So to try out the new tools, I made a carriage lock....open




Locked


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

Made a new tool post locking knob.  the Allen bolt was driving me crazy.

Bored out the bottom to set down over the aluminum sleeve to help center it.





Re-purposes one on the stock levers but I'll probably replace it.   Finally ground my own HSS bit, cut really well, better than the HF one on Al.  Need to try it on steel.


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

Added a new Al handle to the QCTP, short one couldn't torque enough to keep it from rotating.





Made a new small pulley to slow my 12 Craftman bandsaw down some more for cutting metal.   I've replace the motor with a treadmill motor already but it still had issues getting slow enough


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

Wanted to create a hand wheel to use while tapping or using a die.   Might use it for hand turning short threads as well.   Had a wood disk laying around so I chuck it up to gauge what size the final one needs to be for leverage.






Back size view of the expanding section.   Hole near the disk is for a pry rod to hold it still while tightening the expanding bolt.




Going to start on another expander to mount up a gear type indexing wheel setup.   I turned this one a little lose in the bore where it expands so it doesn't sit as true as I want it for the indexing system.


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## mattthemuppet2

very neat, I love all your mods!


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

Been a while for updates.
Cleaned up the work area and started a rack for tooling.



Added a tailstock DRO from a harbour freight 4" caliper



Added a AccuRemote 6" DRO to the cross slide.   This is the second revision.  First one was made out of 1/8 AL and flexed too much.   This is 3/16 AL and 1" Square 1/8" tubing.



Added a rubber gasket swarf cover to keep the DRO slide clean


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

Got my Z axis DRO installed


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## coolidge

One could add a buffing wheel, sanding disk, interesting.



Sitting on Blocks Racing said:


> Wanted to create a hand wheel to use while tapping or using a die.   Might use it for hand turning short threads as well.   Had a wood disk laying around so I chuck it up to gauge what size the final one needs to be for leverage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back size view of the expanding section.   Hole near the disk is for a pry rod to hold it still while tightening the expanding bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to start on another expander to mount up a gear type indexing wheel setup.   I turned this one a little lose in the bore where it expands so it doesn't sit as true as I want it for the indexing system.


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

Actually the buffing wheel is a good idea...might have to try that tonight.

I also made a indexing wheel arrangement based off others efforts on the internet....need to take some pictures of that.


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## jsh

A very good post. Helped me a lot. Do you have any more updates? 
Help me out gents, what is DRO?
Jeff


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## Steve Shannon

jsh said:


> Snip...
> Help me out gents, what is DRO?
> Jeff


Digital Read Out, which tells you nearly exactly the positioning of your machine. 


 Steve Shannon


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

I guess I haven't updated this in a while.   Going to have to take some picture.

Here's it's new home since moving into my new 30x30 shop



New steam engine I completed


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

Some additions




Extended cross slide with thrust bearing



Spindle Indexer



Spring loaded pin




Expanding Mandrel


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## jsh

Thanks for the up date. Makes me really antsy to get moving on mine. I will have one before summer is over! 
I am a fall/winter person. To much gets in the way of fishing and other interest in the summer. Grass mowing etc. I am of the mind I would rather scoop snow than mow grass lol. 
Jeff


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## Takingblame

Sitting on Blocks Racing said:


> Some additions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Extended cross slide with thrust bearing
> 
> 
> 
> Spindle Indexer
> 
> 
> 
> Spring loaded pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Expanding Mandrel


Genius!!! I have been looking for a dedicated index / dividing plate, was actually gonna make one from AI, but your solution is simple and effective. I am assuming that it is a little limited on options for indexing, but none the less a great solution for a tool that would only be used an handful of times. I will be making one of these this weekend.
Cheers

Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

I'm not sure my ideas are original.   I tend to look at internet images and build stuff on the fly to fit what I have.


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## Dustin_Housel

Did you have any issues with vibration with your 5" chuck? Is your lathe bolted to the table?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

No issues at all.   i have it bolted to 2 pieces of 1x1 tubing maybe 11 " long.   But those aren't bolted to the work table.   i got a good deal on a 6" 4 jaw but it might be too big for the lathe.


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## Dustin_Housel

Sitting on Blocks Racing said:


> No issues at all.   i have it bolted to 2 pieces of 1x1 tubing maybe 11 " long.   But those aren't bolted to the work table.   i got a good deal on a 6" 4 jaw but it might be too big for the lathe.


While waiting on the new pulley I broke I bolted it down to some angle. I screwed the plastic end back on to test.  Huge difference. Rock solid. Thanks for the info! Vibrations dampened greatly. I'm going to try and do the old indicate and hammer the high spots down before I do the final tighten on the chuck. Last resort I may face the boss off the backplate and cut a new one that is a slight interference fit. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


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## Jim Mass

Hi,

Cool stuff! The DRO mod is pretty interesting. How well does it work? for instance if you traverse the saddle 3" according to the DRO and make a groove or shoulder or something, how close does that feature actually measure? Same question for the cross slide - can you trust it when turning down diameters? To what accuracy?

Thanks,
Jim


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## Sitting on Blocks Racing

The traverse is pretty accurate.   The crossslide is close enough for what i use it for.   There's a little variance due to some flex in the rear DRO mount (.001-002).   I just make sure to take a couple of measurements as I get down to final diameter and reset my reference point.


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## cholecystectomy

tyvm for some useful inspiration. i got mine last july. after the slo/fast run in, never took time to do much with it. recently had to make some copper electrode holders.facing and parting .5" copper. the motor (i thought ) would chatter and even sllow down. finally wouldn't turn at all. it seems the belt was probably too loose from the start. the grizz rep sent a new gear and belt. should be here a bit after easter. thanks again for the ideas and fotos.


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