# Need Help In Cutting My Aluminum Rods



## muscleflex

Hi all,
I just need help in choosing a tool for cutting my aluminum rods.
I need to cut 5mm and 6mm aluminum solid round bars (rods) (3/16 and 1/4 size in Imperial)
I also need to cut 3mm stainless steel (1/8th size) rods.

I cut them to around 15cm in length.
(Sorry, the photo below is of the bent rods I had to return back to the shop)



At the moment, I cut them manually using a hacksaw and a miter box and it helps but my fingers ache after a while as the rods are too thin for me to grab onto. Also it's a slow process as well.

Lately I've started using my dremel with a HSS saw to cut my rods. Whilst it's scary, it does make the work faster..
But I must have worked it hard and it started smoking (the dremel) last weekend.





So.. can anyone please tell me what tool I need (cheap please - not costing hundreds or thousands!)
I've read in the past that some people recommend using a band saw.

If that's the case, will something like this be enough for my needs?
I need to cut up to 50 rods at a time..
http://www.screwfix.com/p/scheppach... Power Tools&gclid=CPqw3a_0pMQCFXGWtAodfQgArw

Thank you.


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## muscleflex

Or will this be a better cutter?
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cco14-14in-abrasive-cut-off-saw


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## mzayd3

could you just buy the right sized pins?  seems like a really tedious task that could be fixed by buying material pre-cut to size.

otherwise, a vertical bandsaw would be a good option, or a portaband resting on it's head, and feed the material into it versus feeding the sawing into the stock.


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## mce5802

Could you maybe duct tape several pieces of stock together and cut them at once? This would probably speed things up even with the hacksaw and miter box, or you could do it on the bandsaw. I've seen too where guys have welded one end of all the rods together so none of them can slide out while you're cutting. Fwiw


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## Glenn_ca

Maybe something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Keeton-Keet...ne-Bar-Flat-Plate-Cropper-Shear-/311315404584


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## Billh50

One place I worked cut theres on a HF mini- cut off with a slitting saw instead of a cut off wheel. Just needed to make up a stop for it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-61900.html


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## RJSakowski

I would cut them into shorter lengths, some multiple of your final plus an allowance for saw kerfs.  bundle them up and clamp with a hose clamp.  Tape will also work. Seven pieces will make a hex shaped bundle as will 19 and 39.  Cut with a band saw, power hack saw, etc.  I used to use this method for cutting 1/8 X 1" steel strap into 3" lengths. and it made short work of it in my horizontal band saw.
You can also cut aluminum with a carbide tipped table saw or radial arm saw as well; just make sure that they are securely supported and you feed slowly.  In that case, I would cut one or two at a time and set a stop for the right length. It would go fairly quickly.


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## Waterlooboy2hp

muscleflex said:


> Or will this be a better cutter?
> https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cco14-14in-abrasive-cut-off-saw


=================================================

This may be the best bet for both Aluminum and the SS. 

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cps200-metal-shears?da=1&TC=RV-051210074

They also make something called a Rod Shear. Looks the same as the one above, but made just for cutting metal rod stock. Material is fed through holes in the blades. I did not see any listed in the site with the chop saw. --- John


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## Ken_Shea

RJSakowski said:


> You can also cut aluminum with a carbide tipped table saw or radial arm saw as well



+1


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## Waterlooboy2hp

Billh50 said:


> One place I worked cut theres on a HF mini- cut off with a slitting saw instead of a cut off wheel. Just needed to make up a stop for it.
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-61900.html



=======================================================================

I have one of the HF mini saws. They only come with a 2" saw blade.  You have to buy 2" cut-off wheels from someplace else. HF does not sell the cut-off wheels for it. The 2" saw that comes with the mini unit, does a quick job of cutting Brass and Aluminum. I use it to cut 7mm Brass rod to make carb jets. Also picked up a .040 saw blade to plunge cut a screwdriver slot in the end of each jet. --- I also put a cut-off wheel on it to cut off # 8-32 ss bolts. It is very slow, as the motor does not have the power.  HF has a 6" chop saw, with a cut-off wheel. I am sure it would be great for the 1/8" ss rod, but you would have to find a fine tooth saw blade, that would fit the saw, for the aluminum.

I would have bought the 6" HF saw, but was trying to save some money. I was making prototype adjustable carb jets at the time.  Sales of the adjustable units are looking good, so I think I will look into one of the HF 6" chop saws if I can find a fine tooth blade that will fit it.  I also have parts made from 5/8" hex Aluminum bar.  Mini 2" saw will only cut 1/2" deep. The 6" saw will do the job. --- John


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## Andre

Can you use wire cutters or side nippers for the aluminum rods? Just chamfer the end of the rods to get rid of the crimp on a belt sander. Might be woo large for wire cutters though, just a thought.


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## Glenn_ca

Wire cutter might be difficult but bolt cutters wouldn't be.


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## muscleflex

Hi all - thanks for the replies. I need a machine. Bolt cutters won't do it as it's still manual (I have to do cut rods a lot) and the cut edges from a cutter might not go in my collet chuck in my lathe.

That HF cut off looks good but unfortunately I can't get it here in the UK and it looks like it might struggle for the stainless steel from that video I saw.


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## muscleflex

mzayd3 said:


> could you just buy the right sized pins?  seems like a really tedious task that could be fixed by buying material pre-cut to size.
> 
> otherwise, a vertical bandsaw would be a good option, or a portaband resting on it's head, and feed the material into it versus feeding the sawing into the stock.



I thought about this but a 3 meter length rod is cheaper unfortunately rather than buying them precut to size


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## Andre

Bolt cutters would work as Glenn mentioned. Deburr the end with a sander and it should fit in the collet.


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## randyc

Asian miter saws are cheap, I used a HF saw with carbide blade to cut a bunch of brass tubing without a problem.  The fixturing was made from hardwood and worked just fine for a couple of hundred pieces.

The saw should not cost more than $60 or $70 U.S. and way cheaper if you can find a used one.  Set it up with a fine-tooth carbide tipped blade and have at it !


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## muscleflex

Ok, I think I have it down to two options:

CUT OFF SAW or
BAND SAW: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/rage-4-230v-cut-off-saw?da=1&TC=RV-060110004

Here's the links:
CUT OFF SAW:

BAND SAW: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/...0-205mm-benchtop-bandsaw?da=1&TC=GS-060610517

Can anyone look and tell me which is best pls?


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## RJSakowski

A cutoff saw should be faster and will not have a problem with the stainless.  The abrasive wheel may gum up with the aluminum.  Stainless can be hard on band saw blades.  Cutoff saw blades are cheaper than band saw blades.  IMO, the  band saw offers more versatility for future projects.  You had not mentioned what kind of finish you require nor how accurate your cut has to be  or what quantity of pieces you are producing.  All of these would influence my decision.


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## muscleflex

RJSakowski said:


> A cutoff saw should be faster and will not have a problem with the stainless.  The abrasive wheel may gum up with the aluminum.  Stainless can be hard on band saw blades.  Cutoff saw blades are cheaper than band saw blades.  IMO, the  band saw offers more versatility for future projects.  You had not mentioned what kind of finish you require nor how accurate your cut has to be  or what quantity of pieces you are producing.  All of these would influence my decision.



Hi,
I need to cut at least 50 pieces a week. I don't need to have the cut finish to a certain neatness because I face them all on the lathe anyway as I chamfer them as well. This is why I don't want to use any cutters because the ends might not fit in my collet and I have at least 50 rods I need to do and I can't be concentrating on each rod trying to get them inside the collet chuck.


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## muscleflex

Please help as I don't want to keep cutting my rods like this:


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## jumps4

this is the type of saw I would buy
I'm not sure what is available where you are but this saw is popular in the US
you just take a boundle of the rods and place a hose clamp around them at the end to clamp them tight
so they don't spin, wrap tape around each section your wanting, set the stop to the length and cut them. You will need a fine toothed blade to keep them from grabbing.
debur one end on a wire wheel so it goes in the collet easily
Steve


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## muscleflex

Thanks. What is that giant thing??? Looks too expensive for me unfortunately. I'm only looking to spend around £150 at the most.


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## jumps4

sorry the pic did come out large
That is a harbor-freight band-saw and it's not that large
http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html
or this one
http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-variable-speed-bandsaw-47840.html
If you going to use your lathe much a band-saw is an almost must have item if you don't like hack-sawing
steve


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## muscleflex

Ahh I see... is that the same as the bandsaw I linked on the previous page?


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## Billh50

something like this from Machine Mart won't work for you ?

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/rage-4-110v-cut-off-saw


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## muscleflex

Billh50 said:


> something like this from Machine Mart won't work for you ?
> 
> https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/rage-4-110v-cut-off-saw


Well that's what I have on my list on the end of page 1.
Do you think this will do?


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## Billh50

Without actually seeing the chop saw in person it is hard to tell. But the reviews speak well of it. If they had that same model here over the pond at Harbor freight I would go look at it. If the teeth on the blade are fine enough I think it would do the job.


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## jumps4

the only one I seen on the last page was a vertical band-saw and looked to be for wood cutting not metal.
A horizontal metal cutting band-saw would serve you better, you don't have to hold the part to cut it and you can cut in bulk not just one at a time.
the blades travel speed is too fast in a wood saw for metal.
steve


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## muscleflex

This is the blade in a RAGE 4:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Evolution-RAGE-185mm-Multipurpose-Blade/dp/B003OJ1BUM


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## muscleflex

I've just come across this... will this work? http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00P9D4DRO?psc=1#productDetails


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## Billh50

it may be a bit too coarse of a blade for small diameter rods. I know there are finer metal cutting blades available but you would need to search for one cheap enough for you as some are costly.


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## Billh50

That saw may work as well. blades are cheap enough for it also.


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## yendor

The Band Saw is a WOOD Model and you would need some major modifications to slow it down enough to cut metal.
The aluminum might be OK but, If you are also cutting stainless it will just tear up the teeth on the blade and not do much cutting.

The cutoff saw is a small one 7.25 inches but is designed for metal.
I'd get it with a Metal Cutting Saw Tooth blade for the aluminum and a cutoff abrasive wheel for stainless.


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## Franko

I don't think I'd recommend using a wood cutting circular saw blade for aluminum. I got a non-ferrous cutting carbide circular saw blade and use a slider table on my table saw for most of my aluminum cuts. Very precise and square cuts. The non-ferrous blade has almost no rake and is way less likely to snag and scare the peewadding out of you. I wouldn't recommend using a miter saw or radial arm saw. I broke a small one in half cutting a larger aluminum bar in one even using the non-ferrous blade when it snagged due to blade run out inherent in miter and arm saws because the side to side play they all have. I was lucky and didn't get hurt, but it was terrifying.

The small band saw with a fine tooth metal cutting blade is a good safe option and will be useful in the shop. Not all stainless is hard and may not be a problem in the band saw. Coarse toothed blades cause a lot of rattling and grabbing and spinning while cutting small rod. A 14" abrasive cut-off saw is a great tool to have around the shop because it will cut just about any metal you stick in it. I have a small 7.5" cut-off saw that is handy for cutting ferrous small stock.

Horizontal band saws are a great addition to a shop., but they are big. I'd wouldn't recommend the less-expensive small ones that use 1/2" blade as the blade can wander and not cut very square. 3/4" blade models work fine.

[edited to add]

I cut aluminum and small ferrous metal on my small woodcutting Ryobi band saw with no problems.


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## Billh50

I think the problem is he has not got a lot of money to spend on a saw.


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## mce5802

If low on funds maybe go with a Chinese metal cut-off saw with abrasive blades. These can be had pretty cheap in the U.S. though if you can afford it a Chinese horizontal 4" x 6" bandsaw would be way more useful.


P.S. I'd rather be using a collet and a stop in the taistock and parting them off than the method in your video, I think. Fwiw.


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## T Bredehoft

I would go with a band saw, and a clamp of some sort to keep it from turning (also for holding and pushing the part) I have a small vise I use for that sort of thing.  Put rod on the table, put the vice upside down on the rod, clamp the vise and cut away. When you are done, you will have the  band saw for a multitude of other projects. (as I do)


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## RJSakowski

muscleflex said:


> Hi,
> I need to cut at least 50 pieces a week. I don't need to have the cut finish to a certain neatness because I face them all on the lathe anyway as I chamfer them as well. This is why I don't want to use any cutters because the ends might not fit in my collet and I have at least 50 rods I need to do and I can't be concentrating on each rod trying to get them inside the collet chuck.


Your reply eliminates shearing from the consideration as the cut end always has some deformation.  Cutters also leave a burr on the tail end of the cut.  However, for 50 pcs/wk, I would cut them in a bundle with a cutoff saw or band saw and dress the ends with a grinder by rotating into the wheel at an angle.  You only need to to one end so you can insert into your collet.  The dressing operation shouldn't take more than a few seconds each.  Just allow enough excess so you can machine away any grinding marks.


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## muscleflex

Thank you all. So much to consider.
It seems that that horizontal/vertical band saw is the best but unfortunately, it's:
1. A tad too expensive for me right now
2. A tad too big - My workshop at the moment is the conservatory as the garage is full of house moving boxes.

I will look into the Evolution Rage 4 cut off saw and maybe consider that cheap reciprocating saw as well.
I can't seem to find a vertical band saw just for metals from the machine-mart website. does not look like we have good choices here in the UK 

I face the rod ends in my lathe and I also chamfer them in the lathe.


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## muscleflex

mce5802 said:


> If low on funds maybe go with a Chinese metal cut-off saw with abrasive blades. These can be had pretty cheap in the U.S. though if you can afford it a Chinese horizontal 4" x 6" bandsaw would be way more useful.
> 
> 
> P.S. I'd rather be using a collet and a stop in the taistock and parting them off than the method in your video, I think. Fwiw.




Hi - Is an abrasive wheel better for metal? I just watched this video this morning comparing a toothed saw (the Evolution Rage) vs an abrasive cut off wheel. Looked like the toothed wheel cut a lot faster than the abrasive wheel?


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## muscleflex

Oh I have just come across this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-15...-Off-Chop-Saw-Blade-240v-SM150D-/291052906115


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## yendor

Abrasive wheels will tend to clog up when cutting aluminum same as a grinding wheel will.

Get e relatively FINE tooth blade for cutting the small diameter rods you are working with otherwise it will grab and stall your motor with very bad things happening after that.

I would think on the 185 mm (7.25 Inch) blade for that saw you will want no less than 80 teeth, more would be better.

The last thing you want is for the diameter of the rod you are cutting to be able to fit between (2) teeth).

The general rule for teeth is to have at least 3-4 in contact if at all possible more even better..


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## JimDawson

The only problem I see with the abrasive cut off machines is that they don't work well on aluminum.  The wheels tend to clog with aluminum.  Maybe a water based cutting fluid spray would help, but I'm not sure, I've never tried it.  It should cut the stainless just fine.


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## yendor

As the video demo showed the abrasive wheel is basically GRINDING it's way thru the part not cutting.

If you need a clean cut to mount in a collet after you are done then a Blade is the way to go.


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## muscleflex

yendor said:


> Abrasive wheels will tend to clog up when cutting aluminum same as a grinding wheel will.
> 
> Get e relatively FINE tooth blade for cutting the small diameter rods you are working with otherwise it will grab and stall your motor with very bad things happening after that.
> 
> I would think on the 185 mm (7.25 Inch) blade for that saw you will want no less than 80 teeth, more would be better.
> 
> The last thing you want is for the diameter of the rod you are cutting to be able to fit between (2) teeth).
> 
> The general rule for teeth is to have at least 3-4 in contact if at all possible more even better..



Thank you.. this helps me understand! Problem with that Evolution Rage is.. I think they only do that one circular blade. I'll have a look tho.. but at least I know what kind of teeth I should be aiming for.


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## Bill C.

I have used cemented carbide teeth to cut aluminum plate before.  I have a Harbor Freight miter-saw with this type of blade.  If I was only cutting a few pieces of aluminum stock I would use it.

Abrasive cutoff wheels are for steel or iron rods and angle iron.  They throw a lot of sparks and grit.


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## Fabrickator

Cut rods to workable length 3-4', then bundle them about (2") and use a chop saw.


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## mce5802

I gotta say I'm impressed. Never had any experience with a blade like that on a cut-off saw, only abrasive blades. Sure looks like the ticket, though. I might even get one myself.


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## Franko

I have a small 7" abrasive chop saw that I got at Northern Tools, very similar to the one pictured earlier. It isn't a bad little saw and is pretty good for cutting small stock.

Another option would be a bench top portable band saw. Little Machine shop has one, but they are currently out of stock. Grizzly also makes one for about the same price $250 US that is available on Amazon. You might search UK sources. I bet someone sells them. It would be perfect for your project.

This is the Grizzly version. It can be detached from the stand and used Handheld.
http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-J1T-1...d=1428105251&sr=8-6&keywords=portable+bandsaw


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## Lucky 13

How bout an arrow cutoff saw? I know people that use them to cut pushrods made of aluminum and chromoly with an abrasive blade.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabelas-RPM-Arrow-Cut-Off-Saw-Package/744739.uts


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## markknx

A 4" grinder and a cut off wheel your machine mart should have them. I think they are some what like HF. The cut off wheels will zip right through that. Clamp the grinder in the vise and go. (By 4" grinder I mean Angle grinder.
MARK


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## MontanaAardvark

I've got a 4x6 Horrible Freight bandsaw, but that Evolution Rage is pretty slick.  Looks better for cutting off hunks for the lathe or mill than the bandsaw.  

If I was starting over, I think I'd grab one of those instead.  I still might.  


Bob


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## Frank Ford

muscleflex said:


> . . . I don't want to use any cutters because the ends might not fit in my collet and I have at least 50 rods I need to do and I can't be concentrating on each rod trying to get them inside the collet chuck.


 
 I do this kind of thing in batches of fifty or so using 1/8 - 3/16 brass.   I just snip them off with bolt cutter - one at a time goes VERY quickly since I learned to clamp the cutter handle in the bench vise and do the job one-handed, feeding the rod as I go.  

Then, over to the belt sander, holding four at a time, buzz the ends off flat,   hold them at an angle and give them a light rough chamfer so they go into collet or whatever with ease.


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## Bill C.

Bill C. said:


> I have used cemented carbide teeth to cut aluminum plate before.  I have a Harbor Freight miter-saw with this type of blade.  If I was only cutting a few pieces of aluminum stock I would use it.
> 
> Abrasive cutoff wheels are for steel or iron rods and angle iron.  They throw a lot of sparks and grit.



---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Forgot to mention that carbide cemented blade I used the first time was on a portable power saw.  I hated that project because it kept throwing hot aluminum chips back at me.  Used it to cut access holes in aircraft transport fixtures.   It was a oversight correction by the engineers.   The HF miter saw came with one.


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## unioncreek

I'm kind of unorthodox on the way I do some things, mainly if I don't have the appropriate equipment.   But,  I cut all my aluminum of either my table saw or wood chop saw.    I've cut up to 1 inch thick aluminum bar in two passes.  The blade is a carbide 40 tooth that was too dull for finish work.  You want to make sure that the aluminum is secured firmly to the miter on the table saw and the fence on the chop saw.

Bob


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## muscleflex

I was going to go for a cut off saw but I came across a reciprocating saw and it was on sale so I decided to try it first before spending £100 on a cut off Rage 4 saw.
Well so far, the reciprocating saw is perfect for me! It cuts the rods fast. I bought new metal blades and the blades cut the rods even faster!
This is my first try on the saw when I got it:




Excuse the footwear - they're my wife's and I was just using them on that day!


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## Boswell

Looks like this is working pretty good for you. I recomend that you experiment with different speeds and remember to let the blade do the cutting, you don't need to apply much down force. Also remember this post from the first page by RJSakowski, by bundling 7 rods, you should be able to speed up your cutting time even more. 




RJSakowski said:


> I would cut them into shorter lengths, some multiple of your final plus an allowance for saw kerfs.  bundle them up and clamp with a hose clamp.  Tape will also work. Seven pieces will make a hex shaped bundle as will 19 and 39.  Cut with a band saw, power hack saw, etc.  I used to use this method for cutting 1/8 X 1" steel strap into 3" lengths. and it made short work of it in my horizontal band saw.
> You can also cut aluminum with a carbide tipped table saw or radial arm saw as well; just make sure that they are securely supported and you feed slowly.  In that case, I would cut one or two at a time and set a stop for the right length. It would go fairly quickly.


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## mzayd3

I should mention that with a previous employer, we would on occasion use a 14" cutoff saw with a carbide toothed blade.  We had one blade for steel and one for stainless steel.  It spits out a lot of hot chips, but is much more efficient that the cutoff blades.  It left a nice clean edge as well.


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## ch2co

Getting in on this discussion sort of late.  Being a newbie at these things, along with a shortage of tools at hand, I use what I got.
When it comes to cutting down longer pieces of aluminum and brass rod and bar, I have been using my trusty old
radial arm saw. I throw a 10" 100 tooth carbide blade in it, clamp my material down to the table and saw away.  For thicker material thicker
than 1/8" or so,  I'll take several passes, raising the table between each pass.  I've cut 1-1/2"  x 2" brass bars this way and the cut
comes out  clean and smooth, almost looks like it was milled. If I had a bunch of rods to cut I would just lay them down on the table next to each other, and clamp
the whole shebang down with a chunk of wood across the top held down with c clamps. The carbide blade should be rated
for brass and aluminum cutting.  I've even cut Corian counter top material with this setup, with no problem.  Couple of  warnings
 though. Don't stand in the path of the saw blade in order to avoid anything (carbide teeth etc.) from striking your bodily parts and
ALWAYS wear protective face wear.  DO NOT try to take too big,  i.e. deep,  of a cut at one time. Start with just a light cut at first and
then slowly increase the amount of each cut so as not to start to cause the saw to push itself at you. The blade will tend to grab the material
and force the saw forward towards you. Just don't let it become unmanagable and jam the saw towards you, which is NOT A GOOD THING, take your time!

The Grumpy Old Guy


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## janvanruth

you want it done quickly or with a machine?
get yourself the cheapest metal shear you can get
drill three holes through the lower jaw, a little over the sizes of the rod you want to cut
set a block with a clamp to form the length stop
insert rod into hole till upto block
shear
repeat
a piece every two seconds
no machine is going to beat that!

and because of the fact the rod is fed through a round hole there will be minimal distortion so the pieces will go through the collet with no problem at all


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## pn6

muscleflex said:


> I've just come across this... will this work? http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00P9D4DRO?psc=1#productDetails





I've used my trusty "tiger" saw with a metal cutting blade to cut through 3.5 inch diameter 6061 aluminum. You have to secure the piece in a vice so it does NOT move. Still it's not a piece of cake to cut but with a little wd40 on the cut occasionally it will cut through it. You would have to bundle your pieces tightly then secure the bundle in a vice or standing on it raised above ground so you could cut each section off. (Kind of like a carpenter cutting off the end of a 2x4 using a step stool). The key to this is keeping the saw up tight against the bundle so the blade reciprocates and not you!!!! . The reciprocating saw is probably the most versatile tool you can own if you are a homeowner. There's always something that needs cutting and this is the tool for it.


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## pn6

Haha I see you've found the Reciprocating saw (sawzall....tiger saw....etc) to be your weapon of choice. Good deal! As others have suggested bundling the rods will work for you using that saw. Saves cuts and time.

Now somebody get this man some SHOES!!!!....and a shop!!!


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## muscleflex

pn6 said:


> Haha I see you've found the Reciprocating saw (sawzall....tiger saw....etc) to be your weapon of choice. Good deal! As others have suggested bundling the rods will work for you using that saw. Saves cuts and time.
> 
> Now somebody get this man some SHOES!!!!....and a shop!!!



Haha thanks! Yeah I have been using the reciprocating saw now for a few months. It's excellent! I use my vice and I cut 1 rod at a time but doesn't take long to cut each one that I can cut 20 pieces in no time (I get 20 pieces from a single long piece of 3 meter rod).

Regarding the shoes (pink crocs) - they're my wife's but they're just so convenient to wear when stepping out in the garden that I keep wearing it! I need to get my own and in black!


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## muscleflex

pn6 said:


> I've used my trusty "tiger" saw with a metal cutting blade to cut through 3.5 inch diameter 6061 aluminum. You have to secure the piece in a vice so it does NOT move. Still it's not a piece of cake to cut but with a little wd40 on the cut occasionally it will cut through it. You would have to bundle your pieces tightly then secure the bundle in a vice or standing on it raised above ground so you could cut each section off. (Kind of like a carpenter cutting off the end of a 2x4 using a step stool). The key to this is keeping the saw up tight against the bundle so the blade reciprocates and not you!!!! . The reciprocating saw is probably the most versatile tool you can own if you are a homeowner. There's always something that needs cutting and this is the tool for it.



Yep - I actually used the saw to cut wood for the first time last Sunday. I needed to finish a project of mine for a photography prop and since the weather was nice, I decided to use the saw and it was, again, excellent! I found myself looking for other things to cut!


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