# Collet decisions



## The_Apprentice (Jan 24, 2018)

Alright, since I want to keep my material close to polished, and no jaw-marks, I am going to get some collets. Also to make things a little more easier down the road.

I have been taking a look today at a few sets, and wanted to check for opinions. Bare in mind, my lathe is pretty much a clone of the G8688... a typical 7"x12" with MT3 taper in the headstock.

The first, from LMS:

https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2228&category=

This seems to come with everything but the drawbar. The only real downside is that I have been told they don't let you put your stock into the headstock, so this limits your work somewhat. On the other hand, the following item does not have these limits:

https://www.hhip.com/machine-tool-a...res/collet-chuck-for-er-32-80mm-diameter.html

So that is also on my... possible buy list. Curious what the experts here have to say on the matter...

Also, I was checking for prices that don't break the bank, and this package here looks interesting for $96 CAN:

https://www.amazon.ca/GoldenTrading...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4GCSN2HWWZW2582J5TQG

I can get 6 collets with that... I just want to make sure I am on the right track and there are no hidden issues with that one, as no where do I see it says this is for mini-lathes. But if I am not too far off here, it should work fine, and all I'd need is a drawbar with a thread: M12 I could probably pick up at any hardware store?


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## ch2co (Jan 24, 2018)

I have found that it is VERY useful to be able to put your stock into the headstock.  Of course you could always buy
a collet chuck later when you find you need one.


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## RJSakowski (Jan 24, 2018)

Decisions, decisions!  I would go with the second option as there will be times when you will want to work longer parts.  There is a drawback in that you will have to remove whatever chuck or faceplate you have in the lathe to mount it but if it is like my lathe, I would have to remove the chuck/faceplate anyway to use an MT adapter.  Another drawback is that you will have to make and fit a back plate for the chuck so some machining required as opposed to plug and play for the Morse taper adapters.

I would recommend getting a full set of collets to start.  ER collets have a grip range of nominal to nominal - .040, as I recall.  If you want to be able to work with any diameter stock, you will need the full set.  I am not sure about the ER32 collets as to their ability to grip 1/16" indersized.  I know the ER20 won't.  When I got my collet set, I got the metric collets as as they go in 1 mm increments.


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## Fabrickator (Jan 25, 2018)

I bought my ER25 set through Micro Center for less than $100 + Free Shipping (sale price).  The cheap wooden box was coming apart by the time it made it to my house, nothing a little glue couldn't fix.  Oh yeah, it came with a the BS QC sign-off sheet ... so go figure.

The only thing I needed was for me to buy one special/extra collet (3/4") that is not included in the set.  I love 'em and use them all the time.

It came with an R8 adapter and I made a pass-through ER25 face plate for the lathe, that also mounts to my Rotary Table, so I got the usability factor pretty much covered.


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## The_Apprentice (Jan 25, 2018)

It pains me to see the ER25 stuff going so much cheaper than the other ERs, but the problem is ER25 is for really small projects that I just don't see myself getting into ... at least not in the near future.


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## Ken from ontario (Jan 25, 2018)

I highly recommend the second one (ER32 Collet chuck) but it would work even better if you also bought a good ER32 nut for it, I have the same chuck (bought it from Amazon.usa), the nut kept getting loose, maybe because I wasn't tightening it properly or due to poor manufacturing/QC.another problem I had was the er32 collets would not snap in the nut ,it was always too loose so I ordered a Rego-fix nut for it and have had no issues ever since.

For ER32 collets for workholding,I'd go with TPAC  TOOLS if you want inexpensive collets with acceptable runout, but if you are willing to pay more and get better quality, Techniks collets are great .
https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_fro...18+Piece+(3/16"+-+3/4")+SYIC+04212IS&_sacat=0


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## Fabrickator (Jan 25, 2018)

To get the most out of your collet set, you will want to have pass through ability for the lathe. There's no way you can pass through on a mill because you'll have to use an R8 adapter (or equivalent for other machines).  The next thing is you need to consider when making your choice is what sizes you will be working on.  ER25 is only good for up to 5\8" except I found a company that makes the 3\4".  I've sometimes wished I could hold 1", but that brings up the last issue.  The larger the collets/collet nut, you limit your ability to do close work, especially angles.  I've worked on close projects where I wished the ER25 was smaller.  Bottom line, to have the best of both worlds you may need to have more than one size set.  I've got a total of 7 cross-adapted chucks now and still default to my collets if possible.

What I recommend is to concentrate on making adapters so you can use all of your chucks and collets on both machines.


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## GrayTech (Jan 25, 2018)

You can buy ER collet chucks with a 2" straight shank that you can put in a lathe chuck. This gives the through capability. I got mine off eBay.


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## royesses (Jan 31, 2018)

I have the collet chuck in the second link for my 7x16. I purchased it from LMS. There is no way to hold the chuck for tightening the nut. The specified torque on the nut is 100 lb/ft and the HF lathe has no way to lock the spindle. I'm thinking of using some 3/8" drill rod as a Tommy bar and boring a 3/8" Tommy bar hole in the flange. Anyone got a better way?

Roy


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## turnitupper (Jan 31, 2018)

royesses said:


> I have the collet chuck in the second link for my 7x16. I purchased it from LMS. There is no way to hold the chuck for tightening the nut. The specified torque on the nut is 100 lb/ft and the HF lathe has no way to lock the spindle. I'm thinking of using some 3/8" drill rod as a Tommy bar and boring a 3/8" Tommy bar hole in the flange. Anyone got a better way?
> 
> Roy


Sounds good if you have enough meat in the flange. Be sure to drill the same size hole opposite to retain balance.
John.


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## Robert LaLonde (Jan 31, 2018)

How big is the stock you are turning?  

LMS has a 3C collet closer setup.  I have one on my 8.5x18 lathe.  Max size is only 1/2" and 1/2" won't pass though, but its been really handy for cutting parts from smaller bar.  

The thing is 3MT is pretty small.  Anything that fits that taper is going to have a pretty small hole in the back end.  Maybe if you can find a set of 3MT collets with an external thread?  Then you could make your own draw bar and spin handle pretty easily.


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## Mystery1 (Jan 31, 2018)

Make your own ER32 collet chuck to fit on the spindle. Not that hard to do, I made one for my Taig lathe (which doesn't have threading capability.) It will by definition be concentric to your spindle.

On my KC1022 I am presently using a MT4 ER32 collet chuck similar to what you linked to from Amazon. Works well but no through parts of course. It is a temporary measure, I will be making a spindle mounted one.

The alternative is to buy the hhip one. (This one on banggood is less $) You will need to buy a backing plate to match it to your spindle. Mount the backing plate, face it, then cut a register. You can align it for dead on concentricity, then tighten the 3 bolts. Stefan Gotteswinter has a video on YouTube showing the process about 15:30 into the video.

The advantage of collets is repeat concentricity. What ever size you get, buy a full metric set. This spans the inferial sizes as well.


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## Cooter Brown (Jan 31, 2018)

HHIP says Concentricity is .0016". LULZ XD


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## GrayTech (Feb 1, 2018)

royesses said:


> I have the collet chuck in the second link for my 7x16. I purchased it from LMS. There is no way to hold the chuck for tightening the nut. The specified torque on the nut is 100 lb/ft and the HF lathe has no way to lock the spindle. I'm thinking of using some 3/8" drill rod as a Tommy bar and boring a 3/8" Tommy bar hole in the flange. Anyone got a better way?


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## Ken from ontario (Feb 1, 2018)

royesses said:


> I have the collet chuck in the second link for my 7x16. I purchased it from LMS. There is no way to hold the chuck for tightening the nut.


I would drill 3 tommy bar holes like you said and use a 3/8" bar to hold the chuck while unscrewing the nut with a wrench, watch your knuckles.


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## Robert LaLonde (Feb 1, 2018)

Ken from ontario said:


> I would drill 3 tommy bar holes like you said and use a 3/8" bar to hold the chuck while unscrewing the nut with a wrench, watch your knuckles.


Or more holes so you can always use a grip to break the hold.  Tends to be much easier.  I do it all the time with wrenches on my ER collet spindle noses.  I've found the grip open seems to work the best with the least number of flying wrenches. My ER spindles do have wrench flats.


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## royesses (Feb 1, 2018)

Thanx for the replies gentlemen. I will do it.

Roy


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