# Rehab/restore Of Logan 821 1947 Vintage (serial 50337)



## Monty James

Time to watch me stub my toe and learn as we go.

I just purchased my first lathe a Logan 821 from an estate.  Looks to have been setting for years, no rust to be found, lots of grease crud.

Attached or some pictures before we loaded it.


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## Monty James

Before anyone says it yes I have ordered the manual, but until it gets here I have a question for the Logan experts here.
The only issue I have found so far is a single gear with one missing tooth.
I have circled it in the attached image, I believe the gear I need to order is LP-1034 Idler Gear, 30T (w/Oilite) Old Part No. was LA-216 or 18A-30216.
If someone would be kind enough to help the newb and agree or disagree with me on the part it would be appreciated.


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## CluelessNewB

This help?


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## eeler1

Logan often has several part #s for the same part, they've changed their parts system a couple of times.   Can always call them, but LA-216 looks like your gear.  eBay often has used gears for a bit less.   Or don't run power feeds in reverse until you are sure which for replacement.


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## Monty James

Thanks to both of you for the confirmation.

Rich the diagram answered my question exactly.


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## Monty James

Disassembled the apron cleaned out the crude and varnish build up and reassembled it.  It appears to have removed a lot of the stiffness that existed.  Found no broken pieces or excessive ware.

Next up the compound and cross slide.

I decided not to concern my myself with the paint at the moment just the mechanical side of it, when I have gone thru it all I will do it again to do the cosmetic side of it.


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## MBfrontier

Hey, Monty James.

Congratulations on your purchase. I agree with your plan on focusing on the mechanical aspects of your new toy before dealing with the cosmetics. That was exactly my plan with my lathe and it allowed me to run it and make mechanical improvements and also learn what needed to be improved or replaced and determine whether spending a lot of time rehabbing it would be worth the time, cost, and effort.

There is a lot of information on this site that I'm sure will help you. Best of luck on your project.


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## CluelessNewB

Looks like you got a bunch of goodies with that lathe.  It looks like you have at least part of the taper attachment,  that's a nice! The long bed (31" between centers) is a nice feature also.


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## Monty James

The entire taper attachment is there the pieces are just scattered around in the pan.  It is the only thing that had any rust on it what so ever, it should cleanup nicely.


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## Monty James

Here is a short rant,  Stop using a hammer to take apart these machines, I was looking around on you tube for some direction on taking apart the headstock and got a little sick after watching them.

I was inspired by one video though and here is the resultant solution and the steps I took to disassemble the head stock:

Remove rear take-up nut and spindle gear.





Remove woodruff key



Remove screws from bearing cap



 Loosen set screw on bull gear.



Attach shop made fixture to pull spindle.
Right side of tail stock, note the jack screw/stand offs are use to give enough travel for the bearing holder to release from the head stock casting.



Left side of tails stock.



Installed spacers between hub on bull gear and head stock casting to prevent applying pressure to the outer edge of the bull gear.  (Trivia question can you tell what I used for spacers.)



Tighten the nut and look at that the tail stock and bearing assembly pops out, no hammer required to remove it. 





Here are the parts of the puller I pieced together
36" 1/2" all thread rod
3 1/2" nuts
2 1/2" flat washers
1 2" flat washer (I think) it need to be larger than the spindle
2 7/16" x 6" lag bolts (used as jack screws/stand offs)
2 7/16" flat washers
2 7/16" nuts 



I hope this helps someone and hopefully it will make Mr. Pete happy, no hammer and chisel mechanic here.


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## Monty James

I left one part out of the list about a 12" piece of 2"x 4" with 3 holes drilled in it for the all thread and jack screws.


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## MBfrontier

Consider yourself fortunate. Someone used what looked like Permatex Lacquer between the bearings and headstock I assume many years ago and a 2 lb. hammer was required.


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## wa5cab

Monty,

Good way to go about it.  I often use that or similar methods, except that many years ago a pipeline X-ray company paid me for repair work with among other things a high-end Greenlee electrician's hydraulic knock-out punch set.  I don't think that I ever used any of the punches but the hollow shaft cylinder and pump I adapted for use as a remover installer for leaf spring shackle bushings and more recently pulling a lathe spindle.  Same principle except that you operate a pump instead of turning a wrench.

One minor correction - the two 7/16" x 6" bolts are carriage bolts, not lag bolts.


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## Redlineman

And... if you size your pics more appropriately, we might even be able to see your handiwork!


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## Monty James

Point taken on the picture sizes. still new to all of this will try to do better the next time I post pictures.


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## Redlineman

Yeh;

I don't exactly know what the "correct" size is, but mine work. I size them no more than 7" tall if they are portrait type, or 8" wide if landscape. Everything in 100dpi. That seems perfect to me.


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## Monty James

I have the 821 cleaned (not spotless), oiled and inspected.  Got the ebay gear today to replace the one with a missing tooth, to date that is the only issue I could find with the lathe.
I will spend the next few days playing with it and hopefully I will once again tear it down and this time strip and repaint.

I have a question concerning badging.  The 821 I have has the quick change gear box so the lack of change gear placard does not surprise me, the only placard on the machine is the one on the quick change gear box.

My question is should there be a placard on the head stock?


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## mattthemuppet2

sometimes applying pressure with a puller like that and then a sharp thwack with a dead blow mallet can unstick sticky things


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## CluelessNewB

Monty James said:


> My question is should there be a placard on the head stock?


My 820 only has the feeds and speeds table on the quick change gear box with the model number, no other Logan markings.


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## James_Douglas

Take a good look at the photo you posted of the end of the spindle shaft.  Note that the key sticks INTO the threaded area.  I just assembled my 820 headstock yesterday.  I have been using new keys on everything.  When I went to tighten the spanner collar down I hit the edge of that key and the collar did not sit flush against the gear.  I rummaged in my box of used keys I took off the lathe and the original key had the end ground off so that the collar can be screwed down flush to the gear.  Looks like someone changed yours and did not grind down one end.  Be advised.

James.


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## Monty James

Rich,

I suspected that would be the case, thanks for the confirmation.

James,
I started to remove the key before snapping the picture, I had already displaced it and cocked it up on the outboard side.  Good eye though.

Monty


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## James_Douglas

Monty, I found more keys like that.  So trial fit them all before final...James


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## Monty James

Well an update what was a great find on a lathe is still in the great area but not as good as first thought.  The  outboard bearing in the spindle is making noise,  with the recent bearing discussion I am thinking I will shop around for the replacement. By any chance does anyone have the SK number for the outboard spindle bearing?

I also discovered the banjo has issues, I found one on ebay and it is on it way.  Hopefully that will be the last issue I found.

I disassembled the lathe and began paint, using baby seal black with the way my luck goes I picked up two courts and even had them load a rattle can for me.

All I got to say for now.


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## James_Douglas

I have the boxes down in the garage and will post what I have later...

The smaller rear bearing is not that big of a deal, nothing particularly special about it as the original design, as far as I can tell, had all the preload in the front bearing...so the rear just spins and goes along for the ride.  by the way my personal email is JDD@8bells.com if you want to contact me directly.


James


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## Redlineman

Indeed;

My understanding is that the drive side bearing is generic, so no worries there. In most cases, if these lathes are still in good shape, then the bearings are too. It takes a ton of miles to wear these things out, and in most cases the lathe will show it clearly. Most bearings are simply dried up a lot of the time. If you clean them out and re-grease them, they are often as good as new. You may not think that much of a rattle will clean, but you may be surprised. Lots of info on the web about cleaning and packing double sealed bearings, by the way, if you decide to try it.


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## Monty James

I had not even considered cleaning and greasing a sealed bearing, I will give it a try this evening.  After all it will only cost me a little time.  If I fail I am no worse off.


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## Redlineman

Hey;

I've read that some folks have had good luck with Pine Sol for breaking down the old hardened grease. Soak, rinse, soak rinse, soak... etc. Then, using a pressure pot of some sort to force grease back in. Works like a charm. Mine were quite rough, but are now smooth as silk, albeit now without the inside metal shield. I wish I'd known all the tricks when I did them.


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## Monty James

Got to looking at the bearing this evening and did want to destroy the shield in order to lube the bearing, this is a shielded bearing not a sealed bearing.  Was getting ready to do the youtube search but saw Redlineman's  post which changed how I did my youtube search and found this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KS3lOPVzAUg. 
Which got me to think I have a vacuum pump, use it every once in a while to pump down the A/C on the occasional vehicle.  Which is where things stopped for the evening, I was rudely interrupted by other responsibilities.  I will try to get back to it tomorrow and post the results.  Do your self a favor and take a look at the youtube video, watch the whole thing if you don't have a vacuum pump there is a solution to that problem and you already own what you need to lube the bearing.


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## Redlineman

Cool;

Oil is not very useful for loaded bearings, but it is a neat trick. I'd like to see if it would move grease in. Most guys have used a plastic bag loaded with grease and the bearing, and a paint pressure pot. Pretty easy to make a pressure pot.


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## Monty James

Now that is the kind of help I need, someone to though out direction.  I am not much on welding pressure vessels, pin holes you know, so I will stop at Lowes/Home Depot and see what I can do to pick up some steal pipe large enough diameter to put the bearing in and build me a pressure vessel out of it.


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## Redlineman

Chinese tool store probably sells a pressure pot. PVC pipe is easy to work with too.


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## Monty James

I built a pressure pot out of 4" PVC, worked great bearing smoothed out nicely.


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## Wobbles

Monty James said:


> Disassembled the apron cleaned out the crude and varnish build up and reassembled it.  It appears to have removed a lot of the stiffness that existed.  Found no broken pieces or excessive ware.



Congratulations on your purchase !

It looks like your apron has an oil level fill plug there at 4 o'clock. Feel under the center-bottom and see if you have a 1/4 NPT (?) oil drain plug. If so, you need to fill the apron until oil comes out the level plug hole. I'm not sure of the correct grade, but in my book any oil is better than no oil. My carriage ran soooo much smoother with oil in it.

Hope this helps!


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