# Base Feet for a Bridgeport



## RandyM

Ok Gents,
I get a lot of goofy ideas sometimes. I need to know how far out into left field I am this time. I discovered that the holes in the base of my Bridgeport mill are the perfect tap drill size for a 3/4-10 thread. My plan is to tap them out and run threaded rod down to the floor with maybe some kind of foot. Top it all off with a jam nut. Now I can do two things, level the machine and get the base up off the floor (1/2 inch) should a minor flood occur. I am kinda liking the idea. So let me have it.


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## HMF

Not a bad idea, but, it's hard to implement- and there is a commercial solution, albeit expensive.

www.zambus.com

I always rave over these Carrymaster casters. I have my SB Heavy 10 and Burke #4 on them. I plan to put the Van Norman on them. They come with stems or a bolt-on base. They are expensive as hell ($65 each), but they work great- they lift the machine easily with a wrench, and then drop it onto pads for leveling. 

Best,

Nelson


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## Tony Wells

You might have a tough time tapping all the way through the base. The cast material is not too good for that in the base. Like mounts like these:

http://www.sunnexmounts.com/


or these:

http://www.swmanufacturing.com/


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## RandyM

Allthumbz link=topic=1709.msg10347#msg10347 date=1302784824 said:
			
		

> Not a bad idea, but, it's hard to implement- and there is a commercial solution, albeit expensive.


Not sure what you mean, "hard to implement"?.



			
				Allthumbz link=topic=1709.msg10347#msg10347 date=1302784824 said:
			
		

> www.zambus.com
> 
> I always rave over these Carrymaster casters. I have my SB Heavy 10 and Burke #4 on them. I plan to put the Van Norman on them. They come with stems or a bolt-on base. They are expensive as hell ($65 each), but they work great- they lift the machine easily with a wrench, and then drop it onto pads for leveling.
> 
> Best,
> 
> Nelson



I have considered all sorts of otions. I really do not want the extra hieght that would be gained by these, though very nice.



			
				Tony Wells link=topic=1709.msg10362#msg10362 date=1302788359 said:
			
		

> You might have a tough time tapping all the way through the base. The cast material is not too good for that in the base.



The length of the thread is looking to be 1.25 to 1.5 long in the base. Not sure what you mean by "The cast material is not too good for that in the base." I was thinking the base is cast steel?


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## HMF

Well, I say hard to implement because cranking on a nut to raise up a 2000 pound Bridgeport doesn't sound that easy to me. I can see myself on my knees cranking away. The Zambus casters have a larger wheel that can be turned with a wrench, but in my experience, they turn pretty easy. The 650 pound Burke mill I can raise up or down by turning the wheels on the casters with my fingers. The casters only raise the SB Heavy 10 up a couple inches (2 inches or so) max. 

In all fairness, I haven't put them on the Van Norman (1800 pound) mill yet. I worry about it being top-heavy because of the heavy ram and motor on top.

Best,

Nelson


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## Tony Wells

Randy, the material is cast iron, and typically, the quality or grade of material for machine bases is not that good; it doesn't really need to be. It simply needs to support the machine. Foreign objects have been found in cast iron. That said, don't get me wrong. I'm not slamming BP for inferior materials. In fact, if any machine bases are good castings, it will be BP.

Otherwise, you must elevate the base enough to get the tap through far enough to have a full thread.

I'm not saying not to do it, or that you can't. Just things to watch for.


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## Starlight Tools

Randy

"Great minds think alike and fools seldom differ, I'm a fool so whom are you?"

Here is how I leveled my 10 x 50 Verticle Knee mill. I ran taps down to chase the threads, inserted long bolts down from the top and pieces of Hardboard under the pads. Within a few minutes I had the mill nice and level.

First picture is of the rear leveler, second picture is the leveling bolt under the splash tray.

Walter


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## RandyM

Allthumbz link=topic=1709.msg10469#msg10469 date=1302827831 said:
			
		

> Well, I say hard to implement because cranking on a nut to raise up a 2000 pound Bridgeport doesn't sound that easy to me. I can see myself on my knees cranking away. The Zambus casters have a larger wheel that can be turned with a wrench, but in my experience, they turn pretty easy. The 650 pound Burke mill I can raise up or down by turning the wheels on the casters with my fingers. The casters only raise the SB Heavy 10 up a couple inches (2 inches or so) max.
> 
> In all fairness, I haven't put them on the Van Norman (1800 pound) mill yet. I worry about it being top-heavy because of the heavy ram and motor on top.
> 
> Best,
> 
> Nelson



Thanks Nelson, that clears it up. Just not sure I would have a need to justify the wheels. I mean I really don't see moving the machine that much or ever. It is nice to know I have good options though.


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## RandyM

Tony Wells link=topic=1709.msg10473#msg10473 date=1302830509 said:
			
		

> Randy, the material is cast iron, and typically, the quality or grade of material for machine bases is not that good; it doesn't really need to be. It simply needs to support the machine. Foreign objects have been found in cast iron. That said, don't get me wrong. I'm not slamming BP for inferior materials. In fact, if any machine bases are good castings, it will be BP.
> 
> Otherwise, you must elevate the base enough to get the tap through far enough to have a full thread.
> 
> I'm not saying not to do it, or that you can't. Just things to watch for.



Thanks Tony, I hear your concerns. I have the machine tore down right now and thought now would be a good time to do it. And really the way the base is cast I only have to tap about 1-1/2 inches in the top part of the base. The rest is relieved. Thanks for the heads up. Oh, I was thinking the base casting should be of some quality as the knee ways are machined into it.


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## RandyM

starlight_tools link=topic=1709.msg10474#msg10474 date=1302830520 said:
			
		

> Randy
> 
> "Great minds think alike and fools seldom differ, I'm a fool so whom are you?"
> 
> Here is how I leveled my 10 x 50 Verticle Knee mill. I ran taps down to chase the threads, inserted long bolts down from the top and pieces of Hardboard under the pads. Within a few minutes I had the mill nice and level.
> 
> First picture is of the rear leveler, second picture is the leveling bolt under the splash tray.
> 
> Walter



Cool Walter, you already did it. Yep, a fool for a long time now. When you say chase the thread, you mean they were already threaded? Thank you very much for the pics. I think I will give it a try. The worst that can happen is I will have to go to a plan B.


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## Starlight Tools

Randy

That was almost 5 years ago, and I can't really remember what I did yesterday. LOL

My mill is a Taiwan made clone of a Bridgeport, may even be made in the same factory that made the later models, but the supplier is one that deals only with industry, they do not have anything there that ressembles hobby grade.

I remember looking at the holes, wondering how I would get a levelling nut under it without raising the machine too much off the floor. The motor barely clears the ceiling as is. The base casting rested solely on the four corner feet. I tapped the hole, not sure if there was thread there or not but I seem to remember at least a bit of what looked like thread. The two front ones are bolts, I think they were grade 8 that I had rethreaded all along the shank for a client then they gave up the project. The back two were all-thread with a nut locked on.

I have looked into putting castors on the mill, but need to address the height issue. In the bridgeport yahoo group there is a folder called Kev's Bridgeport moving dolley which looks very interesting.

I know that Nelson is pushing the Zambus Castors, I picked up the line of Footmaster ones. http://www.footmastercasters.com/

Like any innovation there is the guy and the company that designed the product then there are the companies that copy it. Footmaster is the original designer of the levelling castor. They have a larger selection and improvements that their patents still protect that Zambus has not copied YET.

In order to use the Footmaster castors, I would need to build up a support cage, like the ones that were shown by Kev, or like the ones shown in this groups BP dolley such that the machine would be cradled below the castors. Also theose machies are top heavy and the force is to the side, so any castor should be put on some form of outrigger.

As I figured the machine was going to just sit where I placed it, which is strategically placed just so far from the corner of the wall such that at full retraction of the ram, it will swing on the column and roatate right around with only micro inches to spare, actually I think I went about 3/8" but it is tight. The table also lines up with the doorway so when I work on long stock I can have it protruding through the door. So far anything I have tried to put on the table has been doable.

So if you do not need to roll the mill around, Kev needed to because his electrcal box was behind the mill and he needed to be able to pull it out from the wall to get at it, then tap the holes, and use the bolts/all thread to level it.

Walter


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## HMF

Walter is right about Footmaster- they were first making this design. They cost the same as Zambus. Both makes are really nifty in my opinion. 

I learned about Zambus first, so I went with those. Why do I gush on them? Well, I bought 2 Shop Fox bases, supposedly 800 pound capacity. They both fell apart under my 600 pound Burke mill. Went to Grizzly asked for a refund, no dice. Tossed them out. I don't weld, so I couldn't make my own, and my shop is so tiny, the loss of adjacent space from shopbuilt mobile bases was a pain. Someone on PM suggested Zambus when I was still on there, and I tried them and was hooked. 

My space is so tiny, I slide my Burke into an alcove till it's needed. Then I roll it out into the center area to use it, and lock it down, then roll it back out of the way. Same with my SB Heavy 10 when I put it together. It is against a wall, but I can roll it forward a bit to use it, then back. Not sure if it makes sense to do this with a big mill like the Van Norman, plus the casters will need to be put on the base first, then the column assembled to the base. It stands 6 feet with the top motor. I don't think I have the headroom to lift it much to get it on the casters after the fact- the engine crane won't go high enough, and then I would have to disassemble it again. 

Best,

Nelson


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## Starlight Tools

Nelson

Since there were no dealers for either brand in my area, I was offered either. I had first gone to Zambus but then in my research I was told that they were made by Footmaster, That falsehood was cleared up quickly and when Footmaster showed me the comparison between the two castors, I chose to go with them.

I have them under most of my tools that I needed to roll around. I still have the two big roll cabs to do, as the factory wheels have flat spots in them from sitting in the same spot massively overloaded for many years.

What I like about these castors, either the Footmaster or the Zambus, and this was very evident on the tool cabinet under the Darex drill sharpener is that I could dial it inot level with my 12" Starrett #98 level very quickly and easily. Since the floor is really badly sloped where that cabinet ended up, I used to be fighting it every time I turned around, it would roll to the centre of the room, or when I tryed to open a drawer, I had to brace it with my foot. 

I do find that really heavy loads take a bit of effort to level with the dial adjusters, and that the 1200 KG castors is a better value than the lighter ones in those applications.


As for your Van Norman, you will need to make a cradle as I explained earlier so that you can keep the machine low and still be able to move it. Castors will sit beside the base, not directluy under it.

Walter


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## RandyM

Holy WOW Guys, way more great info than I was expecting. Got a lot to think about. I am going to keep these castors in mind for the future though. I really don't have the space issues you guys are dealing with. The threaded option really looks like it is worth trying for starters. I have started over many a time on things I thought were good ideas. And then again, some actually worked. Thank you tremendously.


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## Starlight Tools

Randy

Just a thought here.

My lathe came with a similar arrangement, (1/2-12) Whitworth threaded studs that sat in little cup type feet that are about the size of a hockey puck with a hole molded on one side and grip type ridges on the other. This way the weight was distributed over more area than just a Point load at the end of a bolt. That would work for you as well. Like I said I used 1/4" Q&amp;T hardboard so that I was not prssing directly on the floor, but the cups would work well.

Went to take pictures of them, but I had put them under the levelling feet of the Footmasters to give them more hieght adjustment. 

They would be about 3" diameter, by about 1" thick. bore a hole just larger than 3/4" by 1/4" deep. Bottom up to you what you do, either leave flat or put a recess in it so it bears on the center section and the outer rim.

Walter


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## HMF

Walter,

I agree with you that the Footmaster/Zambus casters are more forgving on a bad floor. The area of the basement where I have the shop is awful. I never applied leveling concrete before I framed the walls like I should have, so these casters are a blessing.

But, and you will forgive my stupidity, Walter, I don't see why I cannot just put the stemmed caster into the VN #12 base. What I typically do is buy some 12mm allthread at Enco (or whatever matches the way-too-short stem they sell you with the caster), and use that to go through the base. I did that with the Burke with no problem.

Here is the VN #12 base:


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## Starlight Tools

Nelson

The only reason I said that you would need a cradle is that you had commented that the Van Norman was 6 feet high and that it would be too high with the castors under the base. If you can live with the machine 5" higher then by all means, use the allthread and put the castors under the base. 

Now I use the heavier castors which take 16mm allthread. The Footmaster castors come with a seperate threaded stud, basically a long set screw, but if they are too short then go with the allthread. 

For my lathe, the threaded holes in the base were 1/2-12, yup that is 12 not 13, This lathe is from the same factory as Colchester makes their machines so every so often Whitworth crops up. I took the 16mm allthread and drill and tapped it 1/2-12 to make threaded bushings so that I could mount the castors.  

Using the castors with the square mounting plates, nope did not want to have to figure out how to get four extra holes under each corner on this close to 2000 lb machine.

Walter


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## RandyM

starlight_tools link=topic=1709.msg10565#msg10565 date=1302891437 said:
			
		

> Randy
> 
> Just a thought here.
> 
> My lathe came with a similar arrangement, 12-20 Whitworth threaded studs that sat in little cup type feet that are about the size of a hockey puck with a hole molded on one side and grip type ridges on the other. This way the weight was distributed over more area than just a Point load at the end of a bolt. That would work for you as well. Like I said I used 1/4" Q&amp;T hardboard so that I was not prssing directly on the floor, but the cups would work well.
> 
> Went to take pictures of them, but I had put them under the levelling feet of the Footmasters to give them more hieght adjustment.
> 
> They would be about 3" diameter, by about 1" thick. bore a hole just larger than 3/4" by 1/4" deep. Bottom up to you what you do, either leave flat or put a recess in it so it bears on the center section and the outer rim.
> 
> Walter



Thanks Walter, I too thought of this, and will probably add them. Well, I took the plung, they are now tapped in the base. I am in the process of making the bolts. I will get ya pics when finsihed. Kinda like how they are turning out.


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## oscer

Randy, the only thing I would add to this is Anti sieze. Just in case you didn't already have it in mind


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## RandyM

Well Guys, I did it. I tapped the base with 3/4-10, installed threaded rod. I topped it off with an polished stainless steel acorn nut. And roll pinned it together. I used a jam nut to lock them all in place. I may add a foof at the bottom later. Don't mind the picture, it is not as crooked as it looks.


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## Largo

Interesting thread - and timely for my next project.

Not to hijack the thread, but I would like to solicit some ideas ......

I plan to take my Induma 1-s turret mill apart (if you've never seen one, the Bridgeport is a clone of the Induma  - same general size but somewhat beefier and heavier), clean it, and reassemble it in my basement. Taking the base casting down the bulkhead should be a real joy.

Anyway, I had planned to bolt the base to a pair of 3x3x1/4" pieces of tubing across the narrow width. This would accomplish two things - it would raise the height of the table (I am 6'3") and it would give me enough room to slip a pallet jack under the base to allow for easy placement in the basement (I don't think I could get a forklift down there and while pipe rollers would work, pallet jacks are so much nicer to work with). I had planned to level the beast with shims, but ...

Now I just need to come up with a way to incorporate Randy's idea of tapped holes in the base to allow for leveling - maybe some sleeves welded inside the tubing for the 3/4" leveling bolts to pass through and clips to hold the tubing to the bottom of base. Or maybe I could increase the tubing to 3/8 or 1/2" wall thickness and have the tapped holes in the tubing 1-2" outboard of the side of the base?

Thoughts?

In terms of something to put under the ends of the bolts - I've always used 4x4 or 6x6" pieces of 1/4-1/2" thick steel sheet or plate (whatever I had laying around). Spot mill a 3/4" diameter x 1/6" deep depression to capture the end of the bolt and glue a piece of rubber to the bottom and you're good to goIf you go welding something onto the ends of those bolts, you can guarantee that someday you will need to back those bolts completely out for some reason. I've found that 4x4" "feet" will spread the load enough to support at least a ton per plate and not do damage to a concrete floor. Just a thought.

Brian
Taxachusetts


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## Starlight Tools

Brian

See this thread about putting things under a milling machine

http://hobby-machinist.com/index.php?topic=1689.0

Personally I would be very careful using a pallet jack on a top heavy mill they can be very tippy, don't ask me how I know!

Walter


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## AR1911

starlight_tools link=topic=1709.msg12158#msg12158 date=1303924559 said:
			
		

> Personally I would be very careful using a pallet jack on a top heavy mill they can be very tippy, don't ask me how I know!



walter, since my Millrite resides on a pallet jack, I need to hear this story!


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## Largo

starlight_tools link=topic=1709.msg12158#msg12158 date=1303924559 said:
			
		

> Brian
> 
> See this thread about putting things under a milling machine
> 
> 
> Personally I would be very careful using a pallet jack on a top heavy mill they can be very tippy, don't ask me how I know!
> 
> Walter



Walter,

I hear your pain.

I've been moving mills for years with a PJ and have yet to dump one. I almost never do it alone and move verrrrrrry sloooowwwwly. I also make sure to invert the head and lower it onto a piece of 2x10 bolted to the table surface - lowers the center of gravity considerably.

Brian
Taxachusetts


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## Starlight Tools

Sorry mate, not repeatable!

Most of you that have been around this site, know that I am a bit opinionated, but generally a level headed guy, and will not repeat the wording that was uttered or heard.

Well when a helper tried to lift my mill with a pallet jack on a slightly less than level floor, it started to lean over and ended up resting on the end of the mill table that the powerfeed was attached, well actually it was resting on the power feed and damaged the power feed, they are not meant to support 2200 lbs. It all happened in slow motion, just like on Star Trek when in the faulty warp drive worm hole scene. 

This was after the y axis powerfeed had been knocked by the forklift driver. 

Two replacement drives and a collar under the switch housing and everything was back in order.

Pallet jacks have a fairly narrow wheel base and the mills are even narrower, with lots of overhang. This puts a massive amount of weight above the Centre of Gravity. I would have been better, in hindsight to have done as I originally asked the company that shipped the mill, to put 4x4s under the base that were a few feet longer on either side with forklift cutouts, so about 5 to 6 feet long and lag them through the bolt holes on the base. This would have given the mill more stability. The Kev's Bridgeport moving dolley does the same thing, extends the base dimensions so as making it more stable in moving.

The rest of the moving was done by lifting with the engine crane, setting the mill on the legs of the crane, rolling into position then setting back down on the floor. The crane hook was never removed from the mill until safely in place, thus adding a point of contact above the Centre of Gravity.

Sorry no pictures.

Walter


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## AR1911

My intention is get some square tubing and build a castered base as others have illustrated. For right now this is my mobile base:



I guess I could just drill through the PJ runners and bolt it to the PJ  ;D

Same for my Enco lathe. It would not take much to get that thing to fall on it's face


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## Starlight Tools

At least your millwright is sitting on the pallet jack across the base, if it comes in from the front then there is less support for the machine and as it is raised up it will allow the jack to lean over.

Saw this with a house moving the other day, they had this two story cabin sitting on a trailer behind a dump truck, no straps, bolts, chains or anything other than gravity holding it down. It was 5 to 5 feet wider than the trailer and sitting on a couple of timbers that were used to raise it up from the foundation on. I thought they were going to loose it at one point, it was leaning over probably 15 to 20 degrees and swaying as the trailer wheel dropped inot a dip in the ground, timbers creaked and groaned, but it stayed on the trailer. I heard afterwards that the owner lost continence about that time.


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## Dutch




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## kenscabs

Thought I'd throw this in the mix.  I'm doing a tear down, cleaning and paint that's why it's looks like a mess.  I made this base years ago and had casters under it.  Waste of time trying to move it.  Once I was introduced to pallet jacks my life has changed.  I added the feet and allowed enough room for a narrow pallet jack (21").  Now that I have a permanent shop I'll get it as low as possible since I'm not worried about moving it.


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## RonRock

My old BP base was threaded when I got it. I figured they came that way. Mine had two threaded  rods but two were missing. The two I had had flats on top for a wrench, so I copied that. I will at some point pull them and weld a nut to the tops so that I can use a ratchet or a better wrench. But the crescent wrench got the job done.  Made leveling easy. Also useful to raise the BP high enough  to get pipes under the base so that I can move the machine myself.


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## f350ca

My BP clone came with the holes threaded as well
Greg


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## AxeMaker

I bought these for my smaller mill a while back...

*Bolt-Down Swivel Leveling Mounts*


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## AxeMaker

I had ordered a 3/4"-10 tap and it arrived today.  Can anyone provide some insight as to how you lifted and mill to install the feet?
I have a 2 ton motor lift I was thinking of using, but the center of gravity will be off if I use it for the mill.  I guess it might be able to lift it enough so I can get a 4x4 on one end to install the feet and then switch to the other end.

Union Butterfield 1600(UNC) High-Speed Steel Hand Tap, For Cast Iron, 
Nitride Over Black Oxide Finish, Round Shank With Square End, Plug Chamfer, 3/4"-10 Thread Size 

$36.05


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## RandyM

AxeMaker said:


> I had ordered a 3/4"-10 tap and it arrived today.  Can anyone provide some insight as to how you lifted and mill to install the feet?
> I have a 2 ton motor lift I was thinking of using, but the center of gravity will be off if I use it for the mill.  I guess it might be able to lift it enough so I can get a 4x4 on one end to install the feet and then switch to the other end.
> 
> Union Butterfield 1600(UNC) High-Speed Steel Hand Tap, For Cast Iron,
> Nitride Over Black Oxide Finish, Round Shank With Square End, Plug Chamfer, 3/4"-10 Thread Size
> 
> $36.05



Yes Dean, that is exactly how I did it, only I used an engine crane. I think I tilted the machine forward and then blocked the back. I then tilted the machine rearward and blocked it. Then just hand tapped it, I don't recall having to tap drill the hole to size.


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## AxeMaker

Thanks Randy...  That sounds like the plan then.  I will have to dig out the hoist on the other side of the garage.


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## AxeMaker

I found this in the BP manual.  I wonder how folks have feet and they do not know it?  In the drawing there is kind of a hideaway for the feet that are not associated with the mounting holes.  The holes are evidently for screwing the machine down to the floor.




Here is the link to the bolt at Hardinge;
https://goo.gl/E0Xaz7

The pads;
https://goo.gl/OkMxU3


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## Silverbullet

I've made my own on my mill drill table. I was concerned with the stability of the set up. So on each corner I made outriggers  that can be moved out to twelve inches in an arc . They have rubber pads under cast iron cups. I bought those on eBay , I used 1' lengths of  1/2 all thread with a jam nut and large handle on each to level and steady the mill . Looks funny but works well . They're far enough back to be out of the way and I find I can use two after moving the mill anywhere I need it. The swing out arms are box tubing 1"x 2"x 12" with tubing welded to both ends plus two on each corner to make the hinge. I thought I was paranoid about it till I read these . Always better to over engineer then to not.
R


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## RandyM

Thanks Dean, I didn't know that.

I kinda like my set up because I can make the leveling adjustments from the top.


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## AxeMaker

RandyM said:


> Thanks Dean, I didn't know that.
> 
> I kinda like my set up because I can make the leveling adjustments from the top.



That would be the best solution for me given my back issues.


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## coffmajt

Randy, I tapped the four corner holes in the base of my mill and installed jack bolts [machined square on top] with rubber feet at the bottom end.  To level the mill just takes a pinch bar under the corner you need to lift, a little pressure to take some of the load off the jack bolt, turn and level.  The rubber feet are very stable and help the machine run much quieter than otherwise.  Works well for me -- Jack


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## AxeMaker

coffmajt said:


> Randy, I tapped the four corner holes in the base of my mill and installed jack bolts [machined square on top] with rubber feet at the bottom end.  To level the mill just takes a pinch bar under the corner you need to lift, a little pressure to take some of the load off the jack bolt, turn and level.  The rubber feet are very stable and help the machine run much quieter than otherwise.  Works well for me -- Jack




What is a jack bolt?


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## coffmajt

AxeMaker said:


> What is a jack bolt?


Just a piece of all thread with a square end milled on one end so you can put a wrench on it to turn it - Jack


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## Tony Wells

Or a purchased square head set screw:




Available up to about 3/4-10 x 6" IIRC

Fastenal carries a HoloKrome brand which is a premium, hardened screw.


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## RandyM

AxeMaker said:


> What is a jack bolt?



Basically,

Jack Bolt = Leveling Bolt

Dean,
I checked the base of my machine and it does not have separate tapped holes for leveling bolts. It must be a feature the manufacturer added after my 1958 machine.


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## AxeMaker

I was looking at the newer manual.  My machine is a 1980


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## Sendit

Can someone send me a link to the feet they actually used? 

Was thinking of doing it the way H&W does by using box tubing.
http://www.machinerypartsdepot.com/product/BPLVL


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## ARKnack

RandyM said:


> Holy WOW Guys, way more great info than I was expecting. Got a lot to think about. I am going to keep these castors in mind for the future though. I really don't have the space issues you guys are dealing with. The threaded option really looks like it is worth trying for starters. I have started over many a time on things I thought were good ideas. And then again, some actually worked. Thank you tremendously.



Here is a YouTube video that shows Keith Rucker making some for his lathe






This one is a modification to the original video. Link to that is in his description menu.

Might get some ideas.


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## AxeMaker

Sendit said:


> Can someone send me a link to the feet they actually used?
> 
> Was thinking of doing it the way H&W does by using box tubing.
> http://www.machinerypartsdepot.com/product/BPLVL



I went overboard on the length of the feet.  I figured better to be long than too short.

$8.08 per pack of 5
Part # 98099A036

Material Black-Oxide Steel
For Screw Size 3/4"
ID 0.781"
OD 1.625"
Thickness 0.230"-0.255"
Washer Type Flat
System of Measurement Inch
Hardness Rockwell 15N80




$8.08 per pack of 5
Part # 98099A036

Material Black-Oxide Steel
For Screw Size 3/4"
ID 0.781"
OD 1.625"
Thickness 0.230"-0.255"
Washer Type Flat
System of Measurement Inch
Hardness Rockwell 15N80





$15.80 Each
Part # 2531K213

Thread Size 3/4"-10
Length (A) 8"
Capacity per Mount 5,000 lbs.
Base Diameter (B) 3"
Overall Height (C) 9 1/8"
Mounting Holes Diameter 5/16"
Center-to-Center 2 3/16"
Additional Specifications Two Mounting Holes—Inch
Zinc-Plated Steel Stud
Nonskid Bottom


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## Mr.Miz

I know nobody is really talking bout this anymore but if anybody is out there....can somebody explain to me why everyone is trying to put things under the foot? My mill is pretty much to heavy to lift with anything I have (It's a Kent and the manual says it's around 2500lbs). I got it in place by unloading it with a loader at the door and setting it on 4 of those car dolly casters (yes it was sketchy but worked) I was thinking of just putting some thick square tube (or the like) on top of the foot and then extending it out past the base there by increasing the footprint and making it more stable. Then at the extensions putting some leveling casters (I'm really not decided if it's in its final home or not). As far as getting the bolts to go up instead of down I was planning on just pulling the bolts through with a magnet wand, a magnet on a string, or even just drilling a hold in the end of the bolt and passing string through it. So I don't have to fiddle around too much under the base again since I can't lift it I'm not sure how I would place it on top of something. Am I making any sense?


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## Gaffer

As luck would have it, it was brought up last week in a new thread.  









						New mill, anchor to floor or just sit it down ??
					

Geez, youse guys!  Wuz I copying you or wuz you copying me?  Here's the feet (McMaster_Carr, ⅝" stems) and steel bars I just installed on my new mill today!  (With help from a neighbor with a backhoe.)  One of the bars is 1x3½", the other 1x4" - both straight out of the rem bins at Industrial...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




Lifting the mill to get the feet under it can be tricky. I used a combination of floor jacks, 2X4's, and an engine hoist to lift mine - BP clone. I lifted one side at a time and installed the crossbar with the feet. I had the luxury of a large overhead beam in my garage that I used with a strap to limit the tilt so I couldn't tip the mill over. The nice thing about this leveling setup is that it adds stability and allows you to gain access from underneath if you need to move it again - say with a pallet jack or the like.


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## hman

Gaffer -
The use of an overhead tilt limiter was brilliant!  I didn't have that option in my shop (14 foot ceiling, probably just 2x4 rafters, nothing capable of bearing a load).  So after I fabricated the leg bars I pulled the mill back outside with a pallet jack and asked a neighbor with a back hoe to lift it off the pallet for me.


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## akjeff

Mr.Miz said:


> I know nobody is really talking bout this anymore but if anybody is out there....can somebody explain to me why everyone is trying to put things under the foot? My mill is pretty much to heavy to lift with anything I have (It's a Kent and the manual says it's around 2500lbs). I got it in place by unloading it with a loader at the door and setting it on 4 of those car dolly casters (yes it was sketchy but worked) I was thinking of just putting some thick square tube (or the like) on top of the foot and then extending it out past the base there by increasing the footprint and making it more stable. Then at the extensions putting some leveling casters (I'm really not decided if it's in its final home or not). As far as getting the bolts to go up instead of down I was planning on just pulling the bolts through with a magnet wand, a magnet on a string, or even just drilling a hold in the end of the bolt and passing string through it. So I don't have to fiddle around too much under the base again since I can't lift it I'm not sure how I would place it on top of something. Am I making any sense?


The thing with mounting the cross bars on top of the base, is that all the load is now concentrated on the heads of those four bolt heads, that the mill is now hanging from. IMO, having the weight resting on a pair of 1"x2" solid bars, is a mo better arrangement. JMO.


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## aliva

I hope your going to install  a power draw bar. Looks like it's pretty high to reach with a wrench.
I don't want ruin your idea but I'd be leery of the 1x2 flat bar taking the weight without bowing over time. I suggest replacing the flat bar with 2" square tube 1/4 thick walls. and keep everything as low to the floor as possible. JMO


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## akjeff

aliva said:


> I hope your going to install  a power draw bar. Looks like it's pretty high to reach with a wrench.
> I don't want ruin your idea but I'd be leery of the 1x2 flat bar taking the weight without bowing over time. I suggest replacing the flat bar with 2" square tube 1/4 thick walls. and keep everything as low to the floor as possible. JMO


Wasn't sure who you were replying to, so I'll only speak for myself, and my application. I don't mind the additional height. I'm 6'3" with long arms, so the drawbar reach is no problem, and I generally use ER32 collets anyway, so the brake lever is all I need to reach most of the time. Also, my lower back will welcome the higher table. Stooping kills my back! As to the strength of the 1x2 solid bar. I can't imagine it failing with a load of around 2400 pounds split four ways. Especially with the mounting bolt into the tapped hole helping to prevent the bar from bowing in the middle. As I said earlier, this is a system that is in place on no doubt hundreds, if not thousands of Bridgeport sized machines. Pretty sure it will be OK. Besides, I don't see how using a 2" deep tube is going to keep things as low as possible vs a 1" thick bar? Lots of ways to skin a cat, and I suspect this one will skin just fine.


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## hman

Ditto what @akjeff said ... not sure to whom you were talking.  

As for my own mill, YES!  It's way taller than I'd anticipated!!!  First time I put a wrench on the drawbar, it was several inches above my extended fingertips (as is the spindle brake knob).  So I did add a power drawbar (from PM).  I'm also in the process of building a platform to stand on when operating the mill.  The durn table is at about throat level on me when the knee is all the way up.

I do understand your concern about 1x2 steel - at least for my ~1600lb mill.  That's one reason I went with 3 ½" and 4" wide bars.  I'd decided against 2" square tube because (1) reiterating what @akjeff said, it would have added another inch to the already absurd height of the mill, and (2) even thick wall tube would not allow enough of the threads (⅝-11) on the foot stems to give me a warm-and-fuzzy feeling.

Your mileage may vary.


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## akjeff

hman said:


> Ditto what @akjeff said ... not sure to whom you were talking.
> 
> As for my own mill, YES!  It's way taller than I'd anticipated!!!  First time I put a wrench on the drawbar, it was several inches above my extended fingertips (as is the spindle brake knob).  So I did add a power drawbar (from PM).  I'm also in the process of building a platform to stand on when operating the mill.  The durn table is at about throat level on me when the knee is all the way up.
> 
> I do understand your concern about 1x2 steel - at least for my ~1600lb mill.  That's one reason I went with 3 ½" and 4" wide bars.  I'd decided against 2" square tube because (1) reiterating what @akjeff said, it would have added another inch to the already absurd height of the mill, and (2) even thick wall tube would not allow enough of the threads (⅝-11) on the foot stems to give me a warm-and-fuzzy feeling.
> 
> Your mileage may vary.



Agree on the lack of thread engagement with the tubing. I think that it would require either welding a flange nut on the bottom of the tube, or weld in a "top hat" type ferrule/bung with internal threads. Bottom line is whatever system is best for your needs, and makes your mill as comfortable for you to use as possible.


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## MtnBiker

hman said:


> I do understand your concern about 1x2 steel - at least for my ~1600lb mill.  That's one reason I went with 3 ½" and 4" wide bars.  I'd decided against 2" square tube because (1) reiterating what @akjeff said, it would have added another inch to the already absurd height of the mill, and (2) even thick wall tube would not allow enough of the threads (⅝-11) on the foot stems to give me a warm-and-fuzzy feeling.
> 
> Your mileage may vary.


Just calculated deflection for a 4" lever arm on a 2"x1" flat bar loaded to 750 lbs (for a 3,000 lb full-size mill). About 3 thousandths. Nothing to see here.


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## hman

Thanks for doing the calculation.  Guess I went for overkill (again)!


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## Norseman C.B.

If it's over kilt it caint git up and bite yer ass !...................


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