# Cutting Oil



## devils4ever (Mar 5, 2020)

I've been using Tap Magic as a cutting oil besides for tapping. I've been watching "This Old Tony" and he seems to be using a much thicker cutting oil.

What does everyone use?


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## darkzero (Mar 5, 2020)

I've been wondering what ToT uses but only because of the viscosity at times. I don't think he has actually mentioned what he uses but he has mentioned that it gets like that due to the temperature of his area/shop at times of the year. I know he does use sulfur based oil but not sure if the one he normally shows in his videos is that. I'm used to sulfur based oils to being much darker. I love the sound effects he uses when squirting the cutting oil.


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## deakin (Mar 5, 2020)

cutting oil is on the surface. the tool engages the material below the surface. just something to ponder


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## benmychree (Mar 5, 2020)

I use TapMagic for every cutting tool use, except cast iron and aluminum


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## tjb (Mar 5, 2020)

I needed to get some cutting oil in a hard-to-reach place on a part I was milling.  I couldn't reach it with my normal cutting oil container, so I used my squirt oil can that had way oil in it.  I got the idea because it looked a lot like what ToT uses in his videos.  It seemed to work pretty well.


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## Bill Kahn (Mar 5, 2020)

I've started to use TapMagic xtra thick:

https://www.amazon.com/Tap-Magic-70016T-Xtra-Thick/dp/B07CMH5GJQ 

And, at one point I happened to have clicked on some industrial syringes:









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And the combination works great.  Squirt very precise drops just where I want. No waste.  The stuff is consistency of honey.

Mind you, I am a beginner.  Given all the fluids and materials and cutting tools, I have no idea what is actually good.

-Bill


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## brino (Mar 5, 2020)

devils4ever said:


> What does everyone use?



For steel I use Monarch Klir-Cut 2 Cutting Oil.
I can find it locally at the hardware store in the isle with the black pipe......it's used for threading that pipe.

-brino


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## f350ca (Mar 5, 2020)

A few years ago there was a local garage closing. He offered me a really old 5 gallon steel pail of cutting oil for I think $20. Was using up a gallon of Ridgid pipe threading oil so didn't try if for a couple of years. Went to pour some out into a container to use, the blackest oil I ever saw came out, smelled like old engine oil. I laughed thinking he pawned off a pail of old diesel engine oil. Turns out its the best cutting oil I've ever used. Taps literally freewheel as they go through steel. Probably never be able to replace it. Gives off an awful smoke though when I use it on the mill or lathe but gives a nice finish

Greg


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## stupoty (Mar 6, 2020)

brino said:


> For steel I use Monarch Klir-Cut 2 Cutting Oil.
> I can find it locally at the hardware store in the isle with the black pipe......it's used for threading that pipe.
> 
> -brino



I have been using "rigid" brand threading oil , same purpose for threading pipe.

Works well and is quite economical.


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## projectnut (Mar 6, 2020)

For general purpose cutting I've been using Oatey Dark Threading oil.  It works great for just about everything.  The downside is that it does have Sulphur in it so it does stink.


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## bill70j (Mar 6, 2020)

projectnut said:


> For general purpose cutting I've been using Oatey Dark Threading oil.  It works great for just about everything.  The downside is that it does have Sulphur in it so it does stink.


I use the Oatey Dark Threading oil also.  

For aluminum I use an 80% kerosene:20% ATF mix


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## bakrch (Mar 6, 2020)

Also a fan of Ridgid dark thread cutting oil. Probably because I work for the parent company and get it for free, but it works nicely.


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## talvare (Mar 6, 2020)

When turning steels in the lathe, I use Mobil 766 as a flood lubricant. When tapping, I use Castrol Moly DEE CF for steels and WD-40 for aluminum. Both seem to work well. I was recently tapping some stainless steel of unknown alloy and was having a lot of difficulty so decided to try some Anchor Lube that I'd had sitting unused on my workbench for a couple of years. Although tapping was still pretty tough, it was significantly easier than using either the Molly Dee or Mobil 766.

Ted


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## Ulma Doctor (Mar 6, 2020)

i often turn dry, but i get wet when drilling, & tapping
but when it get's wet, i use Anchor Lube, Rigid Dark, Bacon Grease/ Mineral Oil Mix, WD-40, Tap Magic and Kerosene for different materials

i really like the Tap Magic, bacon grease/mineral oil mix, and the Anchor Lube


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## devils4ever (Mar 6, 2020)

Is *Mobil Vactra No 2* oil good for use as a cutting oil? I've got a gallon of the stuff which will last me years.

Or, should I go for *Tap Magic Xtra Thick*,* Rigid*,* or Oatley*?


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## macardoso (Mar 6, 2020)

I prefer semi synthetic coolant in a squeeze bottle. A gallon of concentrate used this way will last forever. The dried concentrate won't rust and washes away with water. I use tap magic or equivalent for tapping or heavy drilling. The coolant makes *way *less of a mess.









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I use these for all my shop fluids. It keeps me from going crazy with spraying oil everywhere. Also they work great for oiling ball oilers.


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## rjs44032 (Mar 6, 2020)

Just my 2 cents: I rarely use cutting oil. Only use it for tapping or broaching. If I need coolant then I use that.

Cutting oil is more trouble than it's worth. Some folks use it to compensate for tooling that is dull. This just makes things worse. Cutting oil causes the work, cutter, and everything else to heat up with the work. Like deep-frying in oil. I like to let the heat be removed with the chips.

I had a heated (no pun) discussion regarding that with a former boss. I was drilling out a 1 1/2" hole on the BP one day. Boss sees me pushing the drill through material with one finger on the handle. And says "oil that cutter." I replied it wasn't necessary and I didn't want to clean up the mess it would make. He argued that I would ruin the cutter without it. I then pulled the handle up and grabbed the drill with my hand to show it wasn't hardly warm. It would have burned my hand if I was using oil. Anyway, I still have SD drill bits that have been through hundreds of uses in like new condition. Use correct cutting speeds and feeds. Allow the chips to carry away the heat from the process.

Use cutting oil only when absolutely nothing else will suffice. On those occasions I use WD-40. It works great for cutting, tapping, and broaching. And it's available about anywhere. I will sometimes concede it is helpful with some gummy materials like aluminum.  But even then coolants are my first choice.

Ok. I have my flame-suit on now for all naysayers. Hope this helps.

Best Regards,
Bob


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## projectnut (Mar 6, 2020)

I guess my experiences have been considerably different.  I deal mostly with 300 and 400 series stainless and a variety of tool steels.  Trying to  drill or mill these materials without coolant or lubricant makes short work of mills and drills.  Cutting oils provide some cooling properties as well as allowing swarf to freely flow from the work area.

In my experience HSS drills and even those with some percentage of cobalt don't last long drilling dry in 316 stainless.  Swarf flows considerably easier from a milled or drilled holes in 6061 aluminum when WD40 is used as a lubricant.  It also keeps the aluminum from welding itself to the drill.

If you deal mainly with 1018 or similar mild or low carbon steels I would agree that cutting oil is generally not necessary.

I do use Anchor lube for tapping most stainless, and WD40 for tapping and turning 6061 aluminum.


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## rjs44032 (Mar 6, 2020)

Projectnut,

Agreed there are some materials that just need it. Like Inconel and those that you mentioned. I would opt for using coolant on any thing like that. I am not opposed to using coolants, just general use of cutting oils. Coolants actually remove heat from the work by evaporation. Also coolants are a lot easier to work in and clean up after.

Best Regards,
Bob


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## MrWhoopee (Mar 9, 2020)

Whatever sulfurized cutting oil is available at the local hardware store for steel. WD-40 or kerosene for aluminum. Coolant would be nice sometimes, but flood is not a possibility and my shop is so small that a mister would drive me out in no time. 



devils4ever said:


> Is *Mobil Vactra No 2* oil good for use as a cutting oil?



Vactra #2 is way oil. It does not contain sulfur, which improves the machinability of steel. Save it for the ways.


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## SLK001 (Mar 10, 2020)

About the only sulfurized cutting oil I have found is the Oakley Dark that I can get at Home Depot.  Even the Rigid dark stuff no longer contains sulfur.  My grandfather had a gallon of really dark oil that stank to high heaven.  I couldn't imagine why he had it.  Now, many years later, I do, because it was his cutting oil and probably contained both sulfur and chlorine compounds - somethings that the EPA is frowning on nowadays.  I don't know how much longer I will be able to get the Oakley with the sulfur in it.


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## projectnut (Mar 10, 2020)

SLK001 said:


> About the only sulfurized cutting oil I have found is the Oakley Dark that I can get at Home Depot.  Even the Rigid dark stuff no longer contains sulfur.  My grandfather had a gallon of really dark oil that stank to high heaven.  I couldn't imagine why he had it.  Now, many years later, I do, because it was his cutting oil and probably contained both sulfur and chlorine compounds - somethings that the EPA is frowning on nowadays.  I don't know how much longer I will be able to get the Oakley with the sulfur in it.



There has been talk for years about reformulating the Oatey thread cutting oil.  rather than take a chance that it would be pulled from the shelves I purchased a case of 1 quart bottles.  I still have a fair amount left, but I do hope something better comes along before the current formula is discontinued.  

Like MrWhoopee I don't use flood or mist.  We used it where I worked, and while it did a fine job I hated the rancid smell, and the fact that the reservoirs had to be cleaned on a regular basis.


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## bakrch (Mar 10, 2020)

The beauty of modern coolant is that it will basically evaporate before it becomes a problem.  Well, for hobby use anyway, which typically only uses a few gallons in the tank. 

I use Kool-Rite 2290 at home, and Trim Micro-Sol 585XT at work. Never a bad smell to be had. We do change it at work when it gets dirty, but never have I experienced the traditional rancid characteristics. 

I prefer these fluids over anything else, but alas ... I am too cheap to buy it, so I use sparingly.  A gallon of coolant concentrate will only last me about 4 mos (fog buster on the mill, and 2G flood on my lathe).  I probably machine more often than the average hobbyist, though.


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## starr256 (Mar 25, 2020)

One suggestion given by an "aged codger with three fingers" was mineral oil. Not for tapping, but everything else. I have not the extensive experience to argue, nor have I tried rigid experimentation. Seems to work.


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## GunsOfNavarone (Mar 25, 2020)

I don't want my mistake to be yours...I found some great stuff...thick, Like This Old Tony's. Loved it, used it many times, here's the part I am warning you. MAKE SURE IT DOESN'T SAY TO USE xxx AND CLEAN UP ANY RESIDUE. I mean you should clean your machines after use, but that you CAN'T do later/next morning is bad. Stained my almost brand new Kurt DX6 vice, the ways and compound on my G00602... Careful!


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## Buffalo21 (Mar 25, 2020)

One of my customers makes cutting oil and wire drawing lubricants, I have oil for steel, aluminum, brass and stainless steel along with numerous tapping fluids. I just drilled 450+, 3/16” holes in stainless steel nipples, using a single 3/16’ stub bit, the last 20 or so holes were a struggle, using their stainless steel cutting fluid, a quick flick on the bit with an acid brush, after each hole.


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