# Atlas Mill Followed Me Home



## Steve Shannon (Mar 30, 2016)

This morning I found an ad in the paper for an Atlas horizontal mill and a South Bend shaper for what I thought was a good price. So I went to see them. For only a few hundred more than the advertised price he threw in a small disassembled vertical mill, which may be from Enco (I'll know more tomorrow but supposedly it already has ballscrews for CNC. The Atlas rode home in the cargo area of my 4-Runner, as shown above. I'll pick up and photograph the shaper and vertical mill tomorrow. 
I'm delighted. 


 Steve Shannon


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## westsailpat (Mar 30, 2016)

SCORE ! I love horizontals . That one looks pretty clean . Nice !


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## Green Frog (Mar 30, 2016)

Careful, first the tooling  and accessories multiply, then more machines seemingly appear from nowhere.  It's a slippery slope!  Maybe you should just let one of us have that mill before you become totally addicted. 

Congrats!
Froggie


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## FOMOGO (Mar 30, 2016)

Congrats, sounds like quite the score. The mill looks very complete, and a shaper. Color me jealous. Mike


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## 34_40 (Mar 30, 2016)

Congrats on the SCORE!  LOL..
If the next machines look as good as the H.Mill...   Yep, I'm jealous!


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## JPMacG (Mar 30, 2016)

Nice!   Congratulations!    Parts for the Atlas are fairly plentiful and not to too badly priced.   You can find most everything on eBay.


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## Steve Shannon (Mar 30, 2016)

A stand for the mill is also part of what I purchased, but I haven't seen it, so I'm unsure what it is, whether it's original or not.
The SB shaper looks like it's in great shape. I got to see both it and the Atlas mill run. Some parts on the Atlas mill have been repainted and there is a small chip in the corner of the base of the mill, but nothing too disturbing.


 Steve Shannon, P.E.


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## Steve Shannon (Mar 30, 2016)

This is a model MF, serial no. 725





 Steve Shannon


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## wa5cab (Mar 31, 2016)

That is the original 16-speed model.  The MFA had 12 speeds and the B and C only 8.  I thought that I was lucky to find an MFA in decent condition.


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## brino (Mar 31, 2016)

Congratulations Steve! 
Will we get some pictures of the shaper too? 

-brino


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## Steve Shannon (Mar 31, 2016)

brino said:


> Congratulations Steve!
> Will we get some pictures of the shaper too?
> 
> -brino


You sure will!  Can't gloat without photographic evidence.


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## kd4gij (Mar 31, 2016)

Nice score  and


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## Steve Shannon (Mar 31, 2016)

Teaser - everything looks great!


 Steve Shannon


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## 34_40 (Mar 31, 2016)

WOW, that really hurts...   So happy for you..


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## ch2co (Mar 31, 2016)

You must live a charmed life.  Congratulations on a real steal!

CHuck the grumpy old guy


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## Steve Shannon (Mar 31, 2016)

In the cabinet drawer was this data plate:


More pics:










I'm set to fix screens!



 Steve Shannon


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## francist (Mar 31, 2016)

Having spent five years working in a window shop right after high school my suggestion to you is throw that horrendous little tool into the deepest part of the river and walk away swiftly! You'll have much more fun playing with the shaper, trust me.

That's one sweet looking machine, congrats!

-frank


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## Silverbullet (Mar 31, 2016)

Nice yupp charmed life indeed. Hey Steve I'm trying to get a van Norman myself there's two near me one close is a smaller one for $695.00 , the other is supposed to be apart some, but it's only $250.00 . Only problem need someone to pick it up . the close one I may be able to get done . the one in Maryland , gona cost that much to get here. God I hate been screwed up . Good luck with those new babies , they both look like there in pretty good shape . Hey I'll send ya a gear I need a key way in just right for the shaper. na I'll cut it myself with a broach.


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## Steve Shannon (Mar 31, 2016)

So here's the bad news.  The small mill that I also got with this is not an Enco; it's a Central Machinery, which simply means Harbor Freight. The good news is that it's not too small and the various parts all appear to be in decent shape.  I believe the table is about 6 x 26 inches.
The X and Y screws have been exchanged for ball screws. There are no servo or stepper motors on it, but it looks like it's set up to be belt driven with cogged pulleys that turn very freely. I was told it's supposed to be a 2 1/2 axis mill when completed.  A friend of the guy I bought the machines from has an Allen-Bradley Bandit controller and three servo motors for this, which he'll gladly sell me for $500. I'm not inclined in that direction, but I'll withhold judgement until I know more.
It looks very much like a Grizzly G0729, but in red paint and pieces. I'm unsure what I will do with it.

 Steve Shannon, P.E.


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## JPMacG (Apr 1, 2016)

I believe that same mill is sold under a variety of badges, including Harbor Freight, Grizzly, Sieg, Micro-Mark, Little Machine Shop, and others.   I hear it is fairly well regarded for what it is.  There is a subforum here on mini mills.   You can probably learn all you want to know and more there.


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## brino (Apr 1, 2016)

I recognize the Allen-Bradley name as very high quality...at least they used to be...20 something years ago when I worked on a production line they built all the big programmable logic controllers that were used.
-brino


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## Rodney Young (Apr 1, 2016)

looks good all round, nice to get things that are not under a couple inches of dirt and grease! Would really like to see more pictures of the Atlas mill when you get it in place. Mine is the same model but I see some items on yours that are missing on mine.
  Rodney


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## A618fan2 (Apr 2, 2016)

You're a lucky man to pick up such nice machines that close to home - well done!  But, you do SUCK!

John


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## Ulma Doctor (Apr 2, 2016)

Lucky Dog!
a shaper and a lil' horizontal mill to boot!
deals like that are few and far between!


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 2, 2016)

brino said:


> I recognize the Allen-Bradley name as very high quality...at least they used to be...20 something years ago when I worked on a production line they built all the big programmable logic controllers that were used.
> -brino


Allen-Bradley still has a very good name among control engineers, which is related to my field. Bandits were available in different versions. I'm not holding my breath, but the servo motors might be something I would be interested in.  I'm honestly wondering what it would take just to replace the ballscrews in the Harbor Freight with acme screws and take it back to being a manual mill.


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 2, 2016)

Ulma Doctor said:


> Lucky Dog!
> a shaper and a lil' horizontal mill to boot!
> deals like that are few and far between!


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 2, 2016)

Rodney Young said:


> looks good all round, nice to get things that are not under a couple inches of dirt and grease! Would really like to see more pictures of the Atlas mill when you get it in place. Mine is the same model but I see some items on yours that are missing on mine.
> Rodney


Rodney,
I'll take several from different angles sometime this coming week. I'm no expert but I'd be happy to take specific pictures if you want.


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## Rodney Young (Apr 2, 2016)

Thanks Steve,
  Nothing specific but I'm new to the machining world and just want to see if my machine may be missing some items. For example there appears to be a tool holder above the opening to the spindle for the belt to pass through on yours that I don't have, mine has the bolt holes but nothing mounted there


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## Green Frog (Apr 2, 2016)

Rodney Young said:


> Thanks Steve,
> Nothing specific but I'm new to the machining world and just want to see if my machine may be missing some items. For example there appears to be a tool holder above the opening to the spindle for the belt to pass through on yours that I don't have, mine has the bolt holes but nothing mounted there


Rodney,

     Be sure to check the downloads pages for period Atlas catalogs.  There are a couple and you can quickly see how many accessories were available "way back then."  Apparently some weren't real big sellers because they almost never show up for sale... others just seem to break or wear out, so they're also hard to find. 

Froggie


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## Mondo (Apr 3, 2016)

Rodney Young said:


> Thanks Steve,
> Nothing specific but I'm new to the machining world and just want to see if my machine may be missing some items. For example there appears to be a tool holder above the opening to the spindle for the belt to pass through on yours that I don't have, mine has the bolt holes but nothing mounted there


Those two holes are used to mount an oil feed tube bracket, either from the gravity-drip oil tank, or from the internal oil pump that goes into the back of the mill at the bottom or other coolant pump system.  Both type systems are add-on accessories and today very rare.

Spiral_Chips


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 3, 2016)

This bracket?










 Steve Shannon, P.E.


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## JPMacG (Apr 3, 2016)

I think that bracket is for the original lamp.   I don't have the bracket.   I was thinking of repurposing those holes to mount my own light.


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## Rob (Apr 3, 2016)

As Spiral_Chips stated it is for there coolent system.


ATLAS Catalog no.45 May, 1945 Coolant Systems, Motors, Grinders.pdf


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 4, 2016)

Rob said:


> As Spiral_Chips stated it is for there coolent system.
> 
> 
> ATLAS Catalog no.45 May, 1945 Coolant Systems, Motors, Grinders.pdf


I wonder if any of the other components are present in my mill...


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## Rodney Young (Apr 4, 2016)

Steve Shannon said:


> This bracket?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



  Thats the one, I like the idea of mounting my light there as I doubt I will ever get the original coolant system. Did you see if you have other parts of the coolant system?

Rodney


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 4, 2016)

Not yet; I've been moving the third machine I got in the bunch, a Central Machine (Harbor Freight) mini knee mill.



 Steve Shannon, P.E.


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## Mondo (Apr 5, 2016)

Speaking of the oil pump kit or drip tank....
Drip tank sold today on Ebay:  $230.47 - included support bar and bracket.  I thought these were made from die-cast  ZAMAK, not platinum. 

The bracket appears to be a modification of the lathe leadscrew bearing part # 10F-16.  I'm in luck! I have a spare!  All I need now is the platinum tank!


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 5, 2016)

I looked yesterday and found that I do not have those parts, if I'm looking in all the right places:


	

		
			
		

		
	
.


 Steve Shannon, P.E.


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## Mondo (Apr 5, 2016)

That cavity is where the pump would go.  The catalogs list that cavity as having approximately 3 pints capacity.  I would be inspecting for cracks and mating joints to identify possible leaks before trying to pour 3 pints of oil in there!

But while we are on the subject, as I get into cleaning up and refurbishing the grungy old MFC I acquired a couple months ago I will be looking for current day suppliers who may have a pump that can be adapted to the same task and fits in that space.  I will let you know what I find, but don't anyone hold your breath.  I have a long ways to go and the recent snow and cold weather here in Massachusetts is presenting a big setback.

Spiral_Chips


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## Rob (Apr 5, 2016)

Spiral_Chips said:


> Speaking of the oil pump kit or drip tank....
> Drip tank sold today on Ebay:  $230.47 - included support bar and bracket.  I thought these were made from die-cast  ZAMAK, not platinum.
> 
> The bracket appears to be a modification of the lathe leadscrew bearing part # 10F-16.  I'm in luck! I have a spare!  All I need now is the platinum tank!



I did get the tank with my MFB mill but not the mounting bracket.  The tank I have is made out of cast iron and not ZAMAK.


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## Rob (Apr 5, 2016)

Spiral_Chips said:


> That cavity is where the pump would go.  The catalogs list that cavity as having approximately 3 pints capacity.  I would be inspecting for cracks and mating joints to identify possible leaks before trying to pour 3 pints of oil in there!
> 
> But while we are on the subject, as I get into cleaning up and refurbishing the grungy old MFC I acquired a couple months ago I will be looking for current day suppliers who may have a pump that can be adapted to the same task and fits in that space.  I will let you know what I find, but don't anyone hold your breath.  I have a long ways to go and the recent snow and cold weather here in Massachusetts is presenting a big setback.
> 
> Spiral_Chips



If I decide to go with coolant I will us a outside bucket for it.  When I was cleaning the inside of that cavity on mine it was full of all kinds of chips.  And being in the cavity it would be hard to clean out plus it is only 3 pints.


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 5, 2016)

Rob said:


> I did get the tank with my MFB mill but not the mounting bracket.  The tank I have is made out of cast iron and not ZAMAK.


Can I see a picture of it?


 Steve Shannon


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## Mondo (Apr 5, 2016)

Rob said:


> I did get the tank with my MFB mill but not the mounting bracket.  The tank I have is made out of cast iron and not ZAMAK.



Cast Iron????   WoW!  I confess I have never held one in my hand.  I expected ZAMAK!



Rob said:


> If I decide to go with coolant I will us a outside bucket for it.  When I was cleaning the inside of that cavity on mine it was full of all kinds of chips.  And being in the cavity it would be hard to clean out plus it is only 3 pints.



You make a very good point!

Spiral_Chips


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## Rob (Apr 5, 2016)

Steve Shannon said:


> Can I see a picture of it?
> 
> 
> Steve Shannon



I am traveling right now but will post a pic in a few days when I get home.


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## Rob (Apr 9, 2016)

Here are the pics of the coolant tank that you asked for.


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## Green Frog (Apr 9, 2016)

If that's cast iron as you state, it looks like it would be a pretty simple thing to cast, and the bracket that holds it to the machine (as shown previously) looks like it would be pretty easy to fabricate as well.  Am I correct in assuming this is the gravity feed, and with some tubing leading from the valve to the cutter/work piece being all that would be needed?


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 9, 2016)

Earlier I posted a pic showing the inside of the reservoir tank that fits inside the body of the mill (the reservoir used by the internal pump, if it existed.) Here's the picture from the catalog page:
View attachment 126693

The pump is non-existent in my case.  There is a threaded hole in the table where the coolant would return to the pump via the tube shown in the lower portion of the picture.
However, notice how the back panel of the machines body appears to have two tubes and a power cord coming out of it, and how it seems to have other recesses or connections which I cannot make out in the picture. That portion of my machine is blank and appears to be part of the casting. I'm not sure if a person would have to cut out the casting or if I'm missing some way that it is modified.  I'm going to see if I can find out more; I may do an external reservoir like Spiral_Chips and rig up some kind of pump and leave the casting alone.


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 9, 2016)

I also found some problems, but none seems like anything big:
First, and worst, the internally threaded small end of the morse taper on the arbor is cracked.  It kind of looks like it has been hammered on. Once I get the lathe rebuilt I intend to make a couple of arbors, so I'm not too worried.  Besides, it still works!



Next, the arbor driver is missing:



Finally, notice anything incorrect in this picture?


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## BGHansen (Apr 9, 2016)

Steve Shannon said:


> I also found some problems, but none seems like anything big:
> First, and worst, the internally threaded small end of the morse taper on the arbor is cracked.  It kind of looks like it has been hammered on. Once I get the lathe rebuilt I intend to make a couple of arbors, so I'm not too worried.  Besides, it still works!
> View attachment 126698
> 
> ...


Am I seeing 5 steps on the upper pulley and 4 on the lower one?

Bruce


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## CluelessNewB (Apr 9, 2016)

> Finally, notice anything incorrect in this picture?


5 step pulley?

Bearings for jack shaft are not typical either.


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 9, 2016)

The 5 step pulley was what I meant. I don't know nothin about the bearings for the Jack shaft. 


 Steve Shannon


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## Rob (Apr 9, 2016)

The stock bearings on the jack shaft are just oilite bronze.  I believe that the motor pulleys have just 2 shives on all models.  The other pulleys had different # of shives for different years and models.  A drawing for the Arbor driver is in downloads.  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/atlas-mill-arbor-driver-pdf.2143/


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 10, 2016)

I've been looking at the parts lists; it's a little difficult to tell from the drawings but it looks like the MF model is supposed to have a four step pulley on the motor and the countershaft. The smallest step on the five step pulley on the countershaft isn't aligned with the motor pulley; the other four look like they line up. I'll just ignore that smallest step. If I were to use it the belt would be too long anyway.

I grabbed a copy of the drawings the other day for the arbor and arbor driver. They look pretty straightforward to make. I'll keep my eyes open for some spacers. I believe I probably have the 7/8 inch arbor now.  I would like to assemble one of each, with spacers.
Thank YOU for the sketch that enabled that drawing. If it wasn't for the great people like you that inhabit this forum I would be having to reverse engineer it myself. It really does make a difference!

 Steve Shannon, P.E.


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## Green Frog (Apr 10, 2016)

Just as an observation from a relative newbie, a person can do a lot with the Atlas Horizontal and end mills, shell mills, etc using various holders right out of the spindle.. I've seen some impressive work done this way.  However, to take full advantage of this tough little machine, an arbor using the proper stack of spacers to place the cutter(s) in their optimal position over the table, and the over arm with its brace to support the outboard end of the arbor, are extremely useful if not downright required.  I'm thinking the additional vertical support arm may be a bit of overkill, but it DOES add even more rigidity to the setup.  

What brought this up was the OP's comment about the 7/8" arbor and wanting to get all three.  I'm wondering whether there is an advantage of having a heavier arbor shaft beyond ability to fit different cutters one might find?  Is additional strength a significant factor?  Also on the matter of the number of pulley sheaves (and thus speeds) does there seem to be sufficient advantage at stake to merit "retrofitting" a MFC with older type pulleys to gain a wider range and number of speeds?  Inquisitive minds want to know!

Froggie


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## 34_40 (Apr 10, 2016)

It's been my experience that in this case, size does matter. Anytime you can use a tool or attachment to provide more rigidity it's a win - win to gain accuracy.
In regards to the pulley,  it could be handy to have more speed variations.  It depends on the work being required and the tool bit being used.  And of course  the speed vs. feed.
Having another speed choice could prove beneficial.


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 10, 2016)

The reason I want the 1 1/4 arbor is because my neighbor thinks he has a a bunch of cutters for that size that he would give me. If I'm all set up to turn the MT2 it's not much of an effort to cut three blanks instead of two. Then, because the diameter of the drive hub on the arbor is 1 3/8", I already must have sufficient diameter stock for the 1 1/4 arbor.  As other say, the part is already in there.
I agree that the vertical bar adds support, which the extra mass of the 1 1/4" arbor, hanging on a MT2, may require. The other beneficiaries are the nose of the spindle and the arbor support piece M1-60, which may experience torque as a result of the extra sag which may occur.  
I've toyed with the idea of boring out the largest arbor. The material at the very center of any solid shaft  adds mass without adding much strength. I wouldn't take much out, just enough to reduce the weight to that of the one inch arbor.





 Steve Shannon, P.E.


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## wa5cab (Apr 10, 2016)

Getting back to the pulleys, all of the Atlas mills (like all of their metal lathes) came with a 2-step motor pulley and a matching 2-step countershaft pulley.  Because both pulleys are cantilevered on the end of the motor or counter shafts, I would avoid longer pulleys.

The deal with the cutout (see the final parts manual MMB-5) on the rear of the Housing is that only the M1-1A version had it.  The M1-1 that came on the base and A-model mills was a one-piece housing.  The M1-1A came on the B and C models of the mill.


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## Rodney Young (Apr 10, 2016)

Mine only has a single pulley for the motor and countershaft so I will have to see about getting/ making the proper pulleys in a while. 
 I like Steves idea of having all 3 arbors available for when tooling is available at a good price! What grade steel would I use for the arbors?
  I think the larger shafts would allow a better, deeper cut etc as the extra mass will help keep the machine from stalling or chattering....yes bigger is better in most things but the smller shaft would also add more versitility and some extra clearance on some odd jobs?
  Rodney


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## VSAncona (Apr 11, 2016)

Going by the photo in the first post of this thread, it looks to me like a much of the countershaft assembly has been replaced by a previous owner. The step pulleys, shaft, bearings and the casting that holds them don't look original. The casting the bolts directly to the side of the mill does look original though.

Here's a photo of mine with the guard removed. (The holes at the end of the countershaft are for mounting the guard.)


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 11, 2016)

wa5cab said:


> Getting back to the pulleys, all of the Atlas mills (like all of their metal lathes) came with a 2-step motor pulley and a matching 2-step countershaft pulley.  Because both pulleys are cantilevered on the end of the motor or counter shafts, I would avoid longer pulleys.
> 
> The deal with the cutout (see the final parts manual MMB-5) on the rear of the Housing is that only the M1-1A version had it.  The M1-1 that came on the base and A-model mills was a one-piece housing.  The M1-1A came on the B and C models of the mill.



Robert D.: I see what you mean. M6-427 and M6-428 were both two step pulleys. Where mine differs is in the pulleys for the countershaft to spindle.  For my serial number both of those are four step, M1-79 and M6-80.
Thank you also for the tip about the back cover for the M1-1A.  I won't even consider routing coolant lines through the rear of the housing.






VSAncona said:


> Going by the photo in the first post of this thread, it looks to me like a much of the countershaft assembly has been replaced by a previous owner. The step pulleys, shaft, bearings and the casting that holds them don't look original. The casting the bolts directly to the side of the mill does look original though.


Vince:
I'll post some pictures of the countershaft assembly later today if I get a chance. After today I'll be traveling for a week and I seem to have found lots to do before leaving, so I might not get to it; please forgive me. What leads you to believe that the step pulleys, shaft, bearings, and casting have been replaced? Mine is model MF, serial number 725, which may be slightly different. What's yours? I would necessarily be surprised if some of mine has been replaced.  There's a chip in the base casting, so at some time it struck something hard.
Does anybody have an extra knob: S7-145?

Also, I see a reference to a boring bar arbor, shown in figure 14 on page numbered 4 (fifth page in the MMB-5 PDF).  Has anybody got one, or a factory drawing? If I'm going to be making replacement arbors I might as well make one of these also.
It's Monday and now that I'm retired it's a fun day!
Steve


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## wa5cab (Apr 11, 2016)

I've never seen anything like that boring bar in any of the catalogs.  My guess is that you could make one out of a 7/8" arbor.  Making the square hole for the cutter would be "interesting", though.


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 11, 2016)

wa5cab said:


> I've never seen anything like that boring bar in any of the catalogs.  My guess is that you could make one out of a 7/8" arbor.  Making the square hole for the cutter would be "interesting", though.


I think Stefan Gotteswinter shows how to make small boring bars on his YouTube channel.  It sounds like it'll require a shaper; good thing I just got one!


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## 34_40 (Apr 11, 2016)

Steve S., I also have a MF, number 556,  I have a thread here..  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/atlas-horizontal-mill.21602/


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## brino (Apr 11, 2016)

I like these little Atlas mills so much I  took some pictures of a few over the years that went thru my local used tool shop. I found a few shots of their jack-shafts, brackets and pulleys....maybe they'll be useful to you.

First up is one I saw in March of 2015, it is a model MF and serial 004594.




you can just see a hint of the U-shaped jack-shaft bracket between the overarm and the arbor:






I did NOT see a price on that one.
I do have a few other pictures of it, If you need anything specific feel free to PM me.

-brino


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 11, 2016)

34_40 said:


> Steve S., I also have a MF, number 556,  I have a thread here..  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/atlas-horizontal-mill.21602/


Oh yeah, I've been raptly following your thread; it's very interesting. 
Thanks!


 Steve Shannon


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 11, 2016)

Thanks Brino!
Here are more pictures that show some detail of the countershaft and the pulleys thereon.  I have to agree that some parts appear to have been changed; they are a lighter color of gray paint. Also, the countershaft pulley and the spindle pulley only have three steps instead of the four that I believe they should have.  I would like to see that put back the way it was originally if possible.


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## brino (Apr 11, 2016)

Here's a few shots of another one that they had in Sept. 2015.
Model "MF", serial 001590.








The store is Cardon tools on hwy 7 near Perth Ontario.
I know they had another one with a Unimat vertical head in there last weekend, but I was too distracted by a Falcon FCG-610 grinder to take pictures. If I get there this weekend, I'll see if it's still there.....

Steve, I hope you don't consider this as messing up your thread!

-brino


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 11, 2016)

brino said:


> snip...
> Steve, I hope you don't consider this as messing up your thread!
> 
> -brino


Oh, God no! The more information that's shared, the better.


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 11, 2016)

VSAncona said:


> Going by the photo in the first post of this thread, it looks to me like a much of the countershaft assembly has been replaced by a previous owner. The step pulleys, shaft, bearings and the casting that holds them don't look original. The casting the bolts directly to the side of the mill does look original though.
> 
> Here's a photo of mine with the guard removed. (The holes at the end of the countershaft are for mounting the guard.)


Vince,
Now that I have looked at mine and yours I see what you mean.  I agree with you completely. Interesting how someone "fixed" mine to work.


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## 34_40 (Apr 25, 2016)

Steve S.,  in the very first picture of your thread, I notice on the left end of the table, a large round disc...  is this a kick-out device?
Can you give some specs?  Dimensions???  Close up pic maybe???   TIA


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 26, 2016)

I don't know. I'll look at it and I'll take pictures and measurements later today. Maybe together we can figure it out. 


 Steve Shannon


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 26, 2016)

1.9 inch diameter 
0.425 inch thick
1.425 from t slot surface to outer edge. 
It looks like it cams this out of engagement:





 Steve Shannon


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## 34_40 (Apr 26, 2016)

It sure looks like a auto feed kickout to me!
And a unique design to be sure...   I may copy that and test it out.

Thanks for the pics and info..  hopefully yours will be up and running for a test .


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## westsailpat (Apr 26, 2016)

I'm hooked , I'm gonna need a bigger space .


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## Green Frog (Apr 26, 2016)

Steve, I agree with you that that piece seems to have been made up to replace the factory-supplied kick off cam.  Don't take this the wrong way, but I'm thinking it is a bit of overkill, though.  The whole upper half of the disk is just up there doing nothing... and the large curve on the bottom may be a little excessive as well.  Refer to the pictures of the original and of Rudy Kouhoupt's version, both of which are posted elsewhere on this forum.  This is not to say there is anything wrong with the piece somebody made up to fill the need, but there's probably more steel there than you need, and if it gets in the way of any of the mill's movements you could always ... MILL it off!   OTOH, there is no good reason to change it at all if it DOESN'T get in the way.


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 26, 2016)

I'm still very much on the uphill slope of the learning curve with respect to the Atlas mill. I never realized just how far away from stock it was until a couple of you noticed things in my pictures. I've been assembling metal cabinets from Enco and haven't been working on the machines. Thank you all for teaching me. 


 Steve Shannon,m


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## 34_40 (Apr 27, 2016)

I'm thinking of copying the basic design but use the large disc as a wheel.
Allowing it to rotate should make the action smoother /easier on the kickout lever.
Besides, I have a lathe with nothing to do! ROFL..


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 27, 2016)

34_40 said:


> I'm thinking of copying the basic design but use the large disc as a wheel.
> Allowing it to rotate should make the action smoother /easier on the kickout lever.
> Besides, I have a lathe with nothing to do! ROFL..


Makes sense to me. 


 Steve Shannon


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