# Need a longer parting tool



## Aukai (Jul 11, 2020)




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## darkzero (Jul 11, 2020)

Here's my favorite parting tool.  





No way I would try to part that in the lathe even if I had a tool long enough.


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## mikey (Jul 11, 2020)

How cute, your saw even has a little baby ...


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## Aukai (Jul 11, 2020)

Mine is incapacitated at that moment. I parted till it got shaky, I'm going to see if the hand band saw has enough capacity, or hack saw it off.....


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## mikey (Jul 11, 2020)

A rear mounted parting tool would cut that. I have been impressed at how far a parting tool can stick out without issues back there.


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## Aukai (Jul 11, 2020)

I won't be able to get to it till Monday, I need 2.250 stick out to part this.


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## darkzero (Jul 11, 2020)

mikey said:


> How cute, your saw even has a little baby ...



Gotta keep em happy, they get lonely.   

I miss that Enco saw. I regret selling it even though I got more than double what I paid for it. I should have gave it to my little brother. My buddy was mad that I didn't sell it to him. Wasn't thinking straight.

That pic was from the day I brought the MSC saw home. I went to MSC to pick up a few small items. Some how I came home with the saw. After I pulled all the carboard off the pallet I then realized I had no idea how I was going to unload it. Again wasn't thinking, too much excitement. Had to call some buddies to help unload it. Actually I did nothing, they went to work right when they got here & just lifted it of the truck.


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## darkzero (Jul 11, 2020)

Aukai said:


> Mine is incapacitated at that moment. I parted till it got shaky, I'm going to see if the hand band saw has enough capacity, or hack saw it off.....



I remember when I used to strong arm (hacksaw) everything & didn't mind it. Then my buddy found that Enco for me. Used it a lot for just cutting stock & I parted whatever I could in the lathe. Now a days if I can cut it in the bandsaw I will. Funny how things change unexpectedly.


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## Aukai (Jul 11, 2020)

This is 4340, not going as fast as I hoped..


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## darkzero (Jul 11, 2020)

Oh man. Hopefully your portaband will work. I'd hate to cut that with a hacksaw.


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## DavidR8 (Jul 11, 2020)

Aukai said:


> This is 4340, not going as fast as I hoped..



We’ll check back in tomorrow...yikes!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mmcmdl (Jul 11, 2020)

You laugh . I had an Iscar that would've parted that off no problem !  I posted this as soon as you posted the thread , don't know why it took this long to hit the board .


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## mikey (Jul 11, 2020)

Bet my Micro 100 brazed carbide parting tool would go through that. No way would I want to hacksaw or bandsaw that!


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## mmcmdl (Jul 11, 2020)

I mentioned this before on here , but we developed the first drones at my former workplace . The flir camera was mounted in a 15-5 stainless housing that started out at well over 300lbs , and ended up at 10lbs . I took my Iscar tool in and contoured the gimble and housing on a 20" Webb lathe because the CNC couldn't make the cuts . The cuts were angled and over 4" deep , but that Iscar never budged or bent . I'm not sure where that tool ever ended up but I haven't seen it recently .


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## mikey (Jul 11, 2020)

4" is a serious deep cut! That tool must have been at least 1/8" wide or more.


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## mmcmdl (Jul 11, 2020)

mikey said:


> 4" is a serious deep cut! That tool must have been at least 1/8" wide or more.



Yes it was . The insert was .250 if I remember and had thru the tool coolant . I actually bought that tool when in business for repairing well digging drills . It was damn expensive but worth every dime I paid for it . My ex-employer made out well with it also .  This one has better views of the gimble .


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## mickri (Jul 11, 2020)

I vote for the band saw.  Cut it oversize and then clean up the face.  Your are done in a fraction of the time with no stress.  Just because you can do something one way doesn't mean that you should ignore better alternatives.


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## Aukai (Jul 11, 2020)

I was using a .062 parting blade, would another width blade be better?


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## savarin (Jul 11, 2020)

I've parted 3" dia on my flexi 9x20 ok. Just did a bit, retract and extend the blade a bit more.
Used a "t" section blade.
I was surprised it worked as well as it did.


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## Aukai (Jul 11, 2020)

That's the technique I was using, but got into some chatter, the tool post lever started moving, tightened it, and changed the angle of the blade. It all went cattywampus from there


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## savarin (Jul 11, 2020)

Cattywampus? gotta use that if I knew what it meant.


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## Aukai (Jul 11, 2020)

*Search Results*
*Web results*

*Cattywampus dictionary definition | cattywampus defined*

www.yourdictionary.com › cattywampus

_cattywampus_. The _definition of cattywampus_, _often spelled catawampus, is not lined up or not arranged correctly, or diagonally_. An _example of something cattywampus are the positions of the items on the top of a coffee table after a two year old has been playing with them and moving them around_.


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## mmcmdl (Jul 11, 2020)

Mike , one thing I just noticed . Flip those jaws around for more stability !


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## Aukai (Jul 11, 2020)

Thank you, I was wondering about that, but the exorbitant amount of time it took me to dial this in to .0005-.001, I did not want to start over. This is the first time out of the box for this chuck, and me setting it up.


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## NCjeeper (Jul 11, 2020)

I could part that off in my Monarch. My Enco wouldn't do it though. Not enough rigity.


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## darkzero (Jul 11, 2020)

Aukai said:


> That's the technique I was using, but got into some chatter, the tool post lever started moving, tightened it, and changed the angle of the blade. It all went cattywampus from there



What the size is that? I assumed it was like 5" dia but I don't know what size your chuck is. That's a pretty big chunk to part off if it is 5". Be sure to catch the thing! When there's a through hole on the part I like to stick a rod in the tailstock chuck to catch the part, frees up a hand.


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## Aukai (Jul 11, 2020)

Hi Will, yeah 5" it's going to be a bending die on the fab table for 1/2" bar stock. Good idea an the tail stock.
8" chuck....


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## mmcmdl (Jul 11, 2020)

I was going to ask whatcha making Mike . Are you having a 1/4" radius cut on the OD when done ?


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## Nogoingback (Jul 11, 2020)

The solution to your problem apparently is to buy a Monarch, or a 20" Webb.


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## Aukai (Jul 11, 2020)

I need the 5" throat, and considered it, but didn't want to loose too much of the bend. I have been thinking about clamping it flat as the bend progresses. I have not tried this yet, so I don't know whats going to happen. Is 1/4" the radius I should use for 1/2" bar? I don't even know if I'm going to be dragging my table all over the garage bending this....


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## darkzero (Jul 11, 2020)

Another trick I find that works well for me when deep parting is make a cut, then when you feel it not going as smooth, retract the tool, step the tool over to the side like 5 thou then plunge in again. Again when you feel, go back to your original groove & continue to plunge. This helps chips evactuate easier even though I use parting inserts have a v goove to fold the chips for the same purpose.


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## mmcmdl (Jul 11, 2020)

On a nice rigid machine with proper set-up , throw the power feed on and let her go . Those chips should be popping out of that groove like bullets . You're always going to have to adjust your rpms for CSS unless you're lucky enough to be on a cnc .


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## Aukai (Jul 11, 2020)

I had started that, but did not continue, you can see the lip in the cut. I'll revisit that when I start up again. I was thinking that the blade would/might have more deflection, and not track as desired.
I was getting some chatter I could not figure out how to get rid of trying different things, so I was hand feeding


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## darkzero (Jul 11, 2020)

mmcmdl said:


> On a nice rigid machine with proper set-up , throw the power feed on and let her go . Those chips should be popping out of that groove like bullets . You're always going to have to adjust your rpms for CSS unless you're lucky enough to be on a cnc .



Unfortunately I don't think I'll ever get to own a lathe capable of that but I did used to dream about it.


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## ddickey (Jul 11, 2020)

Why don't you drill a big hole in it then you can part it and ruin it at the same time.


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## Aukai (Jul 11, 2020)

Not sure what you mean Duane


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## Ianagos (Jul 11, 2020)

Aukai said:


> I was using a .062 parting blade, would another width blade be better?



Way too thin. Try like a 1/8 or 3/16 blade and feed it hard. I have an iscar blade and I was having trouble parting turns out I was just feeding too little. Chatter cleared up and cut went much smoother once I bumped up the feed.


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## mmcmdl (Jul 11, 2020)

Ianagos said:


> Chatter cleared up and cut went much smoother once I bumped up the feed.


They like to cut , not rub .


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## Ianagos (Jul 11, 2020)

mmcmdl said:


> They like to cut , not rub .



Very true I think I could push it much harder if I needed too but it’s working the way it is so it’s fine. Running 600sfm and .006” per revolution. At .004 per rev it chattered like crazy


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## Aukai (Jul 11, 2020)

Good to know, thank you


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## mmcmdl (Jul 11, 2020)

Aukai said:


> Good to know, thank you



Make sure your set-up is rigid Mike . If using inserts such as Iscars , your chips should come out as spirals and break leaving you curls . Coolant or a steady oil brush works well . I wouldn't push it with those jaws in that location though . You're hanging on minimal scrolls on that chuck as is . If they would let go , that would be messy !


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## Aukai (Jul 11, 2020)

I'm going to reverse the jaws, and set up again, I don't have inserted cutters, only blades. I use a steady drip of tap magic, and went through several cans. I'm going to see if the water soluble mister will work in a light mist.


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## mmcmdl (Jul 12, 2020)

What size post is on the lathe ?


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## Aukai (Jul 12, 2020)

AXA....


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## mmcmdl (Jul 12, 2020)

Next time a package comes your way I'll let you try out an Iscar insert tool , then you can make a choice !


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## Aukai (Jul 12, 2020)

That would be nice.


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## mmcmdl (Jul 12, 2020)

7 more hours and I'll be home for 3 days so I'll get in touch .


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## Ianagos (Jul 12, 2020)

I have definitely found carbide to be better in most situations but my lathes are slightly bigger than your lathes. These are things I think you should try:

-like others said is definitely just power feed start slow but don’t be afraid bump it up a little if it sounds like it’s rubbing

-if all you have is high speed steel calculate the sfm at about the middle of the diameter range for about 100 sfm 

-get a thicker parting blade about .125 should be good

-Make sure you stick the blade out as little as possible to make the cut use the front of the stock to check clearance.

-make sure your compound is not hanging way out and all your gibs are tight

-use oil or coolant whatever you got


Let me know if any of this works for you


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## Aukai (Jul 12, 2020)

This parting blade was cobalt, the biggest I have is a 3/32 M2 U groove that I will set up, and try. I will go back to make sure the rest of the criteria is checked off.


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## Winegrower (Jul 12, 2020)

Parting got a lot more predictable of success when I got a blade type holder for carbide inserts.   Sometimes I can power feed, but occasionally that saves the big surprise for last.


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## ddickey (Jul 12, 2020)

It was a joke that didn't go over very well. Drill a 2" hole then you wouldn't hav much to part off.


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## ThinWoodsman (Jul 12, 2020)

One thing that has been said above, but that I want to emphasize, is to use the tailstock.
Gripping large stock in the reverse jaws means that the chuck has less of a grip (ergo, the stock has more stickout).

A few months back, I had used an annular cutter to make a 3 1/2" OD, 1.5" ID ring from a solid aluminum round. All went well until about halfway through parting the ring off. I was using an HSS T-style blade instead of my usual carbide insert, due to the depth. The friction from the parting operation caused the part to slowly creep out of the chuck - not enough to fling the stock anywhere, but enough to bind and snap the parting blade  I've got a nice pic of it on my phone somewhere. 
Lesson learned: always use a tailstock center or drill pad when working with those reversed chuck jaws if there's stickout.


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## Aukai (Jul 12, 2020)

I wish I could make a bigger center hole, but 5/8 is the fab table hole diameter to bolt it down  
I'm going to see how the 3/32 acts and change up the jaws then. I think I calculated 3" diameter gets me 150ish RPM for 4xxxx series steel, not sure if I messed that up.


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## ddickey (Jul 12, 2020)

Did you take that piece out of the chuck?


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## Aukai (Jul 12, 2020)

Not yet, I'm at work....


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## Ianagos (Jul 12, 2020)

Doesn’t look too bad the way it is in the chuck. Especially since you won’t be spinning it fast. I’d just add the tailstock to be safe and go for it.







I had to part this and I just parted till I had 1/2 diameter left then hit it with a hacksaw.


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## Aukai (Jul 19, 2020)

Well it went slow but it went, I set up my mister for the first time, and it worked well. Mikey let me borrow his inserted parting tool that did well. I was still getting some harmonics, but hand feeding got me there. Thank you   The part was straight, and cleaned up at .025 facing.



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## mikey (Jul 19, 2020)

Looks good!


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## Aukai (Jul 19, 2020)

Your assistance is greatly appreciated  
Hope I don't have to do that very often. LOL


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## mikey (Jul 19, 2020)

You need help, all you have to do is ask.


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