# Degreaser help needed it burns



## Braeden P (Nov 29, 2020)

So I was using some degreaser and wearing gloves and some splashed in so I took them off immediately and wasted my hands and not the skin right by the sides of my fingernails burns what should I do to make it go away.


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## brino (Nov 29, 2020)

Hi Braeden,

First is to scrub under running water to make sure you got all the chemical off. Even 5-10 minutes is NOT too much!

I hope you had eye protection on!

-brino


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## brino (Nov 29, 2020)

....after that I'd look for any lotion that your mother/sister/aunt has on hand....... preferably something with a natural base (lanolin) and not too heavy on the other crap (perfumes, etc.)

-brino


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## Braeden P (Nov 29, 2020)

brino said:


> Hi Braeden,
> 
> First is to scrub under running water to make sure you got all the chemical off. Even 5-10 minutes is NOT too much!
> 
> ...


I’ve already tried that just hurts the whole time but way worse.


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## Braeden P (Nov 29, 2020)

brino said:


> ....after that I'd look for any lotion that your mother/sister/aunt has on hand....... preferably something with a natural base (lanolin) and not too heavy on the other crap (perfumes, etc.)
> 
> -brino


Ok will do


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## markba633csi (Nov 29, 2020)

What kind of degreaser?  Some are easier on your skin than others


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## Braeden P (Nov 29, 2020)

POR 15








						Cleaner Degreaser
					

POR-15 Cleaner Degreaser (formerly marine-clean) cleans and degreases in one application without leaving residues, noxious fumes, or flammable solvents. No other cleaner works as fast or as well. It makes petroleum-based cleaners almost obsolete because POR-15 Cleaner Degreaser can be diluted...




					www.por15.com


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## Braeden P (Nov 29, 2020)

brino said:


> ....after that I'd look for any lotion that your mother/sister/aunt has on hand....... preferably something with a natural base (lanolin) and not too heavy on the other crap (perfumes, etc.)
> 
> -brino


Just tried that just made it hurt worse everything I try makes it hurt.


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## Nogoingback (Nov 29, 2020)

Can you find an MSDS for that stuff?  Might be helpful.


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## jaek (Nov 29, 2020)

Keep rinsing. Or wipe with a rag. Back of the bottle might have instructions too.


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## middle.road (Nov 29, 2020)

Baking soda rinse. Need to neutralize it.
POR-15 is probably *caustic *and some folks are more sensitive to it than others.
There's the possibility that you 'burned' your skin, depends on whether or not it got past the epidermis.

Did you have it diluted or were you using it full-strength?

Lotion: going to need one for sensitive skin. Most of them have perfumes and such in them that will aggravate the injury.


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## Lo-Fi (Nov 29, 2020)

You should probably seek medical advice at this point. I have some of that stuff and shied away from using it on account of the warnings. The paint itself has compounds which etch themselves into your skin, but the thinner and degreaser are a degree more evil. If I recall correctly, a respirator was recommended too and it falls into the "professional product" category.

Be safe. Make sure you read and understand the warnings!


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## Tozguy (Nov 29, 2020)

Don't put anything on it, get medical help.


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## Jim F (Nov 29, 2020)

middle.road said:


> Baking soda rinse. Need to neutralize it.
> POR-15 is probably *caustic *and some folks are more sensitive to it than others.
> There's the possibility that you 'burned' your skin, depends on whether or not it got past the epidermis.
> 
> ...


Main ingredient is Potassium Hydroxide.
AKA, Caustic Potash.......


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## Jim F (Nov 29, 2020)

Nogoingback said:


> Can you find an MSDS for that stuff?  Might be helpful.


Main ingredient is Potassium hydroxide


			https://por15.com/assets/images/techdata/POR-15-PS-Cleaner-DegreaserLR.pdf


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## rwm (Nov 29, 2020)

If it is Potassium hydroxide I would put white vinegar or similar acid on it immediately and seek medical help at an urgent care or ER.
Robert


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## Jim F (Nov 29, 2020)

Try vinegar, acid will neutralize the base.


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## middle.road (Nov 29, 2020)

Duh, Vinegar... I'm off my game.


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## Braeden P (Nov 29, 2020)

middle.road said:


> Baking soda rinse. Need to neutralize it.
> POR-15 is probably *caustic *and some folks are more sensitive to it than others.
> There's the possibility that you 'burned' your skin, depends on whether or not it got past the epidermis.
> 
> ...


I was using it at full strength my hand was soaked I was wearing a respirator p100 my dad said that it is just a little chemical burn and that I will be ok but that is what expected and I won’t be at any doctor soon my mom said just wash it off I’m going to try vinegar.


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## Braeden P (Nov 29, 2020)

All we had was apple cider vinegar and that just made it burn it was in my gloves for about an hour before I noticed the pain I will just have to deal with it but all I’m going to be doing tomorrow is typing at school and pushing buttons make my fingers hurt so guess I will just deal with it.


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## Braeden P (Nov 29, 2020)

Wow some websites say to put on vinegar others say not to some say to put on hydrochoric acid OUCH I will just see what happen to it


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## rwm (Nov 29, 2020)

Hydrochloric acid can burn you by itself so I would not go there. Vinegar is a weaker acid and will not hurt your skin. I really would use that even if it hurts a little.
Everyone should remember that strong bases are more dangerous than acids. They penetrate skin more easily and can cause deeper damage. 

Robert


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## Braeden P (Nov 29, 2020)

rwm said:


> Hydrochloric acid can burn you by itself so I would not go there. Vinegar is a weaker acid and will not hurt your skin. I really would use that even if it hurts a little.
> Everyone should remember that strong bases are more dangerous than acids. They penetrate skin more easily and can cause deeper damage.
> 
> Robert


Yeah hydrochloric acid would hurt I put more on and no different other than that it hurts more guess it is burned to deep to stop.


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## Jim F (Nov 29, 2020)

Braeden P said:


> I was using it at full strength my hand was soaked I was wearing a respirator p100 my dad said that it is just a little chemical burn and that I will be ok but that is what expected and I won’t be at any doctor soon my mom said just wash it off I’m going to try vinegar.


Your Dad and Mom sounds like a smart people.........


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## Braeden P (Nov 29, 2020)

Jim F said:


> Your Dad and Mom sounds like a smart people.........


Yeah but not really when it comes to chemical burns


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## Jim F (Nov 29, 2020)

Braeden P said:


> Yeah but not really when it comes to chemical burns


Suck it up kid, life hurts.........


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## Braeden P (Nov 29, 2020)

Jim F said:


> Suck it up kid, life hurts.........


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## Braeden P (Nov 29, 2020)

It only hurts the right amount that it is annoying but not so bad it really hurts so I’m fine


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## markba633csi (Nov 29, 2020)

Truth in advertising - "Completely removes oil, grease, dirt, and FLESH"


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## Shootymacshootface (Nov 29, 2020)

Well, if your not going to seek medical help and you can't stand the pain, take a couple of tylenol (I specifically said tylenol) and put it in ice water for as long as you can stand it. You will thank me tomorrow.


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## Tozguy (Nov 30, 2020)

Braeden P said:


> All we had was apple cider vinegar and that just made it burn it was in my gloves for about an hour before I noticed the pain I will just have to deal with it but all I’m going to be doing tomorrow is typing at school and pushing buttons make my fingers hurt so guess I will just deal with it.


Yes you have to give the burn time to heal The degreaser dissolved some skin tissue but you have washed the POR15 off and stopped the destruction. Now it needs time to heal. Your game now is to prevent infection, not try to chemically neutralize something that is long gone.


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## Larry$ (Nov 30, 2020)

Potassium hydroxide is an inorganic compound with the formula KOH, and is commonly called caustic potash . I had to look that up. Similar to Lye, very strong base, takes the oil out of you skin and makes a sort of soap. I suspect at this point you need to grow new skin!


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## tq60 (Nov 30, 2020)

Use greased lightening, 26 bucks for 5 gallons.

Melts grease like crazy and no odors or irritation.

Reminds me I am out...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


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## Braeden P (Nov 30, 2020)

does any one have an idea about how long the pain would last just wondering if it lasts for a few days or a few weeks.


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## RJSakowski (Nov 30, 2020)

Potassium hydroxide is one of the ingredients.  Potassium hydroxide dissolves flesh and bone.  The butyl cellosolve is a gel and its purpose is to keep the caustic in contact with the surface.  This stuff is close in formulation to oven cleaner.  First aid consists of an immediate copious flushing with water followed by application of a weak acid to neutralize the caustic.  Baking soda actually slightly alkaline and of no significant use in neutralizing caustic.  A better choice is a weak vinegar solution or citric acid in the form of lemon juice.  

Potassium hydroxide's action on flesh is almost immediate and it is difficult to remove as evidenced by the slimy sensation that won't wash off you get on skin when you come in contact.  The finger nails are problematic as the caustic works in around the nail and is difficult to flush properly.  You may have to soak your finger tips in the acid solution for some time to allow penetration under the nails.  

You have already done tissue and nerve damage and the pain is nature's way of telling you that you screwed up.  It will eventually subside.


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## Braeden P (Nov 30, 2020)

RJSakowski said:


> Potassium hydroxide is one of the ingredients.  Potassium hydroxide dissolves flesh and bone.  The butyl cellosolve is a gel and its purpose is to keep the caustic in contact with the surface.  This stuff is close in formulation to oven cleaner.  First aid consists of an immediate copious flushing with water followed by application of a weak acid to neutralize the caustic.  Baking soda actually slightly alkaline and of no significant use in neutralizing caustic.  A better choice is a weak vinegar solution or citric acid in the form of lemon juice.
> 
> Potassium hydroxide's action on flesh is almost immediate and it is difficult to remove as evidenced by the slimy sensation that won't wash off you get on skin when you come in contact.  The finger nails are problematic as the caustic works in around the nail and is difficult to flush properly.  You may have to soak your finger tips in the acid solution for some time to allow penetration under the nails.
> 
> You have already done tissue and nerve damage and the pain is nature's way of telling you that you screwed up.  It will eventually subside.


ok i already can tell that i screwed up and the pain is a constant reminder.


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## seasicksteve (Nov 30, 2020)

I installed all the ceramic tiles in my house and suffered a similar issue. I was not aware that he grout would burn skin, I did not wear gloves. My fingers were ulcerated and very pain full for a week or so I could not button my shirt. Im sure the grout is not as aggressive as the degreaser but I was in it for a while. Hope you get better soon


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## Tozguy (Nov 30, 2020)

Unfortunately in my experience burns are more painful and the pain lasts longer than other types of wounds.
Not weeks maybe but days for sure. Have you looked up first aid and treatment for burns?


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## Braeden P (Nov 30, 2020)

Tozguy said:


> Unfortunately in my experience burns are more painful and the pain lasts longer than other types of wounds.
> Not weeks maybe but days for sure. Have you looked up first aid and treatment for burns?


yea but there is nothing i can do now


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## Downunder Bob (Nov 30, 2020)

All correct above Def not hydrochloric acid, I'd try the iced water with plain white vinegar about 50/50  the vinegar might sting a bit, but it wont harm your skin. I'd also see a doctor and the sooner the better. I had a similar incident many years ago I was on  a ship at sea and could not get to a doctor, it took the skin off my hands and took months to heal.

Read the MDSS for the product. That stuff will take your flesh right off down to the bone.


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## Tozguy (Nov 30, 2020)

Braeden P said:


> yea but there is nothing i can do now



Check this article, scroll down to the section on treatment.









						Chemical Burns: Causes, Symptoms, and Diagnosis
					

Find information about chemical burns and how to prevent them. Learn about the causes, symptoms, and treatment of chemical burns.




					www.healthline.com


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## Braeden P (Nov 30, 2020)

Tozguy said:


> Check this article, scroll down to the section on treatment.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


all signs say i should go to the doctor so i will see if my dad could take me.


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## Papa Charlie (Nov 30, 2020)

This is from the POR-15-PS Technical Data Sheet. https://por15.com/assets/images/techdata/POR-15-PS-Cleaner-DegreaserLR.pdf

"FOR SKIN CONTACT: Wash thoroughly with soap and water. Remove contaminated clothing and shoes. Get medical attention immediately. Wash clothing and shoes before reuse."


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## Braeden P (Nov 30, 2020)

Papa Charlie said:


> This is from the POR-15-PS Technical Data Sheet. https://por15.com/assets/images/techdata/POR-15-PS-Cleaner-DegreaserLR.pdf
> 
> "FOR SKIN CONTACT: Wash thoroughly with soap and water. Remove contaminated clothing and shoes. Get medical attention immediately. Wash clothing and shoes before reuse."


yeah i read that on the container but my parents say its fine and just wash it off but i will ask to go to get it checked out.


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## Papa Charlie (Nov 30, 2020)

I don't know that you need to go to a doctor and would trust your parents. If the pain persists for more than a few days, you may want to reach out. But this stuff because it is water based makes it sound like it is safe, but it is a chemical.

Just keep an eye on it. When I was pulling wrenches for a living back in the 1970's, the parts wash solutions that we use to use would leave your hands tinkling for several hours afterwards. Of course back then, we were not as safety savy as people are today.


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## RJSakowski (Nov 30, 2020)

There is little more that can be done at this point.  Wash the affected area, neutralize the caustic, and prevent infection.  I have had simi;lar experiences with chemical burns around the finger nails both with caustic and with hydrofluoric acid.  The latter happened when I worked in a chemical lab and it did warrant a visit to emergency The hydrofluoric acid is insidious as it is both a strong acid and the fluoride attacks bones and cartilage so not only must the acid be neutralized but the fluoride has to be tied up as well.

If it were me, I would wait before a trip to Urgent Care but if the condition appeared to be worsening by all means I would go.


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## Braeden P (Nov 30, 2020)

RJSakowski said:


> There is little more that can be done at this point.  Wash the affected area, neutralize the caustic, and prevent infection.  I have had simi;lar experiences with chemical burns around the finger nails both with caustic and with hydrofluoric acid.  The latter happened when I worked in a chemical lab and it did warrant a visit to emergency The hydrofluoric acid is insidious as it is both a strong acid and the fluoride attacks bones and cartilage so not only must the acid be neutralized but the fluoride has to be tied up as well.
> 
> If it were me, I would wait before a trip to Urgent Care but if the condition appeared to be worsening by all means I would go.


yeah i will wait before asking to go but it is hurting some more and just has been getting worse so i will wait until it hurts a lot.


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## Steve Shannon (Nov 30, 2020)

I would recommend that for future purposes read the SDS before using any chemical you’re not already familiar with in order to anticipate and avoid problems. Some solvents can carry chemicals right to your bloodstream or nervous system and asking questions on an online forum could delay getting the care you need. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RJSakowski (Nov 30, 2020)

Braeden P said:


> yeah i will wait before asking to go but it is hurting some more and just has been getting worse so i will wait until it hurts a lot.



Don't be a martyr.  If the pain is increasing, you should seriously consider urgent care.

Looking at the SDS sheets for the ingredients, the butyl cellosolve is not a nice player with skin either.


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## NortonDommi (Nov 30, 2020)

Braeden P said:


> but it is hurting some more and just has been getting worse


The washing and using vinegar should be all that is needed.  I don't know how often you have been exposed to injury. I think a lot of us have had Caustic burns from splashes and yeah, they are a nuisance and the pain/annoyance from a bad one lasts about a week.  After a few years of ripping skin, splinters, cuts, burns etc you will just brush it off.  Best thing is as has been mentioned read the instructions before using anything. ALWAYS wear safety equipment! Safety glasses are mandatory. A beanie is a good idea as well as bald spots ain't cool.
 I use long sleeve heavy duty gloves and a jacket and an apron whenever I use Caustic cleaners and if any does get on me I drop everything rinse and spray with Vinegar.  Dump your clothes in the wash too as strong Caustic will eat holes in organic materials.
  Caustic cleaners are like most things, they are safe to use provided you have read the instructions and take the requisite precautions.


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## Tozguy (Dec 2, 2020)

Braeden P said:


> yeah i will wait before asking to go but it is hurting some more and just has been getting worse so i will wait until it hurts a lot.


Just checking in on you Braeden, how are you doing today?


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## Braeden P (Dec 2, 2020)

Tozguy said:


> Just checking in on you Braeden, how are you doing today?


Still the pain just sucking it up and dealing with it. Thanks for checking in this just shows how nice the here are.


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## Papa Charlie (Dec 2, 2020)

Braeden, 
Burns, either heat or chemical, take the longest to heal and because the nerves have been damaged over a large area it will hurt more than a cut. 
Stick with it buddy, It will go away eventually. It doesn't matter whether you are man or boy, they hurt.


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## Braeden P (Dec 2, 2020)

Papa Charlie said:


> Braeden,
> Burns, either heat or chemical, take the longest to heal and because the nerves have been damaged over a large area it will hurt more than a cut.
> Stick with it buddy, It will go away eventually. It doesn't matter whether you are man or boy, they hurt.


yeah it has started to go away or im just not felling it as bad 
but only two things scare men, lightning and a bear in heat.


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## RJSakowski (Dec 2, 2020)

Braeden P said:


> yeah it has started to go away or im just not felling it as bad
> but only two things scare men, lightning and a bear in heat.


Apparently, you've not met a vindictive woman yet.


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## Braeden P (Dec 2, 2020)

RJSakowski said:


> Apparently, you've not met a vindictive woman yet.


I guess that would be 3


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## brino (Dec 2, 2020)

Braeden P said:


> Thanks for checking in this just shows how nice the [people] here are.



Yeah you'd think so, but then.......



NortonDommi said:


> A beanie is a good idea as well as bald spots ain't cool.



Someone calls a good portion of us "uncool"! 

-brino


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## Steve Shannon (Dec 2, 2020)

Braeden - I’m glad you’re feeling better. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## middle.road (Dec 2, 2020)

Along with a bear in heat, (#4) a pack of wild dogs.
I grew up in the mountains outside of Denver/Golden. People would abandon their dogs. They'd form packs.
They weren't afraid of people and were vicious. The Dads would have to go out every so often and do culling.


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## Tim9 (Dec 10, 2020)

MSDS says it contains lye. Washing with vinegar will neutralize lye.

last paragraph of below link 



			https://por15.com/assets/images/techdata/POR-15-PS-Cleaner-DegreaserLR.pdf


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## Toolmaker51 (Jan 7, 2021)

Reading this with devoted interest. Just hauled a big Clarus 25 [govmint grade solvent tank] indoors. Double filtration, fluid pump, sludge separator weir, overhead lamp, rocket launcher, fusible link for the lid, reserve level sight glass, power seats, ground effects package....everything but former kitchen sink. 
Being of sound mind and slim wallet, there are many formulations [recipes] combining readily available liquids.
I recall real solvent that worked 100%, but not that it was so bothersome to skin. The industry standard was known as Stoddard Safety Solvent. 
CA has restrictions on Belgian Waffles, but solvent ordered at a certain [insert green logo here] auto parts was surprisingly good. At $100 for 5 gallons it better be, after first use that $100 sting was not so bad.
Everyone is different too. But now at 4-5x my age then, chemical gloves ordered for this go-round, with regular PPI. 
What bothered me once was a water based version, cleaned like mad but skin not happy. Not convinced water base ideal for tanks not of stainless. 
Per remark bald spots not being cool, just depends on size of the spot. 
Mine, being ear to ear, cool as hell.


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## brino (Jan 7, 2021)

Toolmaker51 said:


> Everyone is different too. But now at 4-5x my age then, chemical gloves ordered for this go-round, with regular PPI.
> What bothered me once was a water based version, cleaned like mad but skin not happy.



Even the same person can change.....I don't know if the reaction changes after first exposure or what......

I used to use that orange-pumice hand cleaner after coming in from real messy (usually automotive) jobs.
After the last two times I used it the backs of my hands were covered with a painful and itchy red rash afterward.
I had to get rid of it.

-brino


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## Toolmaker51 (Jan 7, 2021)

Seems opportune to nail down safety; not OSHA version but the reality. Like the hype surrounding COVID where each little detail "makes you safe" is nonsense. Nothing does that better than your own initiative, taking steps. In other words, the hype is formed by "makes you safe"; where in fact any single detail MIGHT, incrementally, make you only _*safer*_. Need not reinforce difference between those. Points directed from remote parties are not an umbrella, ultimately we are responsible for our own safety.
Mike Rowe [Dirty Jobs] has described zillion of times.




and favorite




Only someone who knows how to work, versus merely administering, understands this.
Defund safety committees, employ him!


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## Tim9 (Feb 9, 2021)

Just for a side note since this thread seems to still be pertinent. I never use anything with lye unless absolutely necessary. It’s really nasty stuff. Worse than acid in my opinion.
   For degreasing , I just use mineral spirits. Stay away for odorless minera spirits. It’s just lame. Go to a paint store and buy a gallon of the regular mineral spirits. Put some in a spray bottle and for most old tools, spray on and scrape off. For painted areas a few rags or Scott towels. If you live in California and can’t get the good stuff, buy a gallon of diesel fuel. It stinks. But it’s pretty much the same.

    Wire brushes, razor blades and scrapers really works quickly. The razor blades work great for unpainted machine surfaces.... greasy or rusty.
And, just remembered.... scotch brite too. Furthermore, water based cleaners encourage more rust. You don’t get that with petroleum based stuff.


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## Papa Charlie (Feb 9, 2021)

These days, I don't do a lot of parts cleaning so will use Brake Clean or the like. But when I need to do a lot of parts, I prefer Kerosene. Lighter in oil than diesel and doesn't leave a lot of residue.


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## RJSakowski (Feb 9, 2021)

Toolmaker51 said:


> I recall real solvent that worked 100%, but not that it was so bothersome to skin. The industry standard was known as Stoddard Safety Solvent.
> CA has restrictions on Belgian Waffles, but solvent ordered at a certain [insert green logo here] auto parts was surprisingly good. At $100 for 5 gallons it better be, after first use that $100 sting was not so bad.



From Fisher's website, Stoddard Solvent is essentially mineral spirits.  I buy mineral spirits for $10/gal. at my local DIY.  Less than $8 if I buy it as paint thinner.


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## Larry$ (Feb 10, 2021)

RJSakowski said:


> I buy mineral spirits for $10/gal. at my local DIY. Less than $8 if I buy it as paint thinner.


That's also what I've been using. Leaves almost nothing behind.
I've got a bunch of small parts including ball bearings I need to get well cleaned. I'd like to make sure all the dirt is out. Does anyone use an Ultra Sonic cleaner?


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## Toolmaker51 (Feb 10, 2021)

Long ago, our machine shop was connected to a maintenance department. To reduce contamination of solvent tank [bearings especially] they precleaned in ethylene glycol. Tank was heated, made from two crock pot elements, raised the temperature up 200°F and ran covered. An hour later all were clean, to flush out in solvent tank. The grease residue was filtered out with a screen cup. 
Name for the hot pot was "Oily-Boily"


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## NegativeK (Feb 11, 2021)

Larry$ said:


> That's also what I've been using. Leaves almost nothing behind.
> I've got a bunch of small parts including ball bearings I need to get well cleaned. I'd like to make sure all the dirt is out. Does anyone use an Ultra Sonic cleaner?


I just finished cleaning a knee mill with (odorless) mineral spirits and an ultrasonic cleaner. Paint the liquid on, scrub with a paper towel, scrape with a plastic pry tool or a razor blade, wipe the crud off. 10-15 years of auto shop grunge and tire dust.

For anything that I could remove, I used a cheap Amazon ultrasonic cleaner. A friend said they die within a year in a chemistry lab settings, so I went in knowing it's not a buy it for life item -- but I paid about $150, and it probably saved me 20 hours sitting at a bench, scraping and scrubbing screws and handles and knobs. 






There are cheap tools you can buy that are mistakes, and there are cheap tools that you buy that you quickly get your money's worth. The ultrasonic cleaner is definitely one of the latter. And as a bonus, it did all of the work with just tap water and some Dawn soap. Ten minutes, and your part is clean.

(For small screws and bearings, put them in a glass mason jar inside the mesh basket.)


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## Larry$ (Feb 12, 2021)

NegativeK said:


> I paid about $150, and it probably saved me 20 hours


I've looked at the Amazon adds and that's about the price range I was looking @. Many of the reviews weren't very good & I know they cheat the reviews. The alternative is a regular parts washer. But then I'd have to deal with the solvent. Thanks for the help.


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## Tim9 (Feb 12, 2021)

FWIW.... I buy a 5-gallon pail of mineral spirits. It lasts me a pretty long time. And I usually keep a spray bottle of mineral spirits for the quick clean ups. For the super greasy and somewhat involved tear down clean ups. I keep a gallon can of very used mineral spirits. Dirty, greasy stuff like bearings go in the can and soak. I remove them and blow dry and then they go into clean mineral spirits. I will pour about a half cup in a small pan. 
Once finished....whatever is left of the then clean mineral spirits gets dumped into the bigger once gallon paint can and it’s top is tapped on until next time I need it. This has worked well for a few years now. 
  Yea... I miss not having that big parts washer. But if I took that out of storage and brought to my limited space workshop.... the shaper would have to go. So it is what it is.
Anyway, I think I still have half of my 5 gallon pail left.


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## finsruskw (Feb 12, 2021)

Used an ultrasonic unit for my 9A resto last year.
Get the big one, great for paint removal as well.
Holds about 5 gal.
Add some plain old dishwashing liquid and you are in business!

For small greasy parts, use a peanut butter jar with your favorite de-greaser solution in the jar and submerse. You may have to weight it some to keep it below the water level in the tank though.


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## Braeden P (Feb 12, 2021)

im fixing up my hardinge dv 59 three coats of paint probably lead paint so chemical removal only but it greasy so i might get an ultrasonic cleaner to clean greasy parts, degreaser is sitting on the self probably to never to be used because the parts im degreasing are steel steel+water=rust so only low strength degreaser for me!


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## finsruskw (Feb 12, 2021)

Braeden P said:


> im fixing up my hardinge dv 59 three coats of paint probably lead paint so chemical removal only but it greasy so i might get an ultrasonic cleaner to clean greasy parts, degreaser is sitting on the self probably to never to be used because the parts im degreasing are steel steel+water=rust so only low strength degreaser for me!



Never had an issue with rust, just blow dry and spray w/WD-40 afterwards.


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## Braeden P (Feb 12, 2021)

finsruskw said:


> Never had an issue with rust, just blow dry and spray w/WD-40 afterwards.


mr pete alway says not to use air on a lathe or mill so i won't use that and the way dont have wipers! like really a top end lathe with no wipers!


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## Tim9 (Feb 12, 2021)

Larry$ said:


> I've looked at the Amazon adds and that's about the price range I was looking @. Many of the reviews weren't very good & I know they cheat the reviews. The alternative is a regular parts washer. But then I'd have to deal with the solvent. Thanks for the help.


From what I’ve noticed... Amazon isn’t the place to buy bulky liquids like mineral spirits. It’s just a costly object to ship. Not so much the weight but because it’s a flammable liquid. Get your mineral spirits at a Paint specialty store if you live in a state without restrictions like California.
    In Louisiana, even Walmart , Home Depot and Lowe’s has much better prices on gallons of oil, WD-40, and Mineral Spirits. The prices I’ve seen for those same items seems to be almost 30% higher at Amazon. Best prices here is definitely a dedicated paint store.
  And... low pressure air blowing in the right direction isn’t going to damage your mill or lathe. I tend to vacuum mostly... but a light blast of air around the chuck jaws isn’t going to permanently damage anything in my opinion. That said... I regularly will disassemble my chucks and clean them. Yes...swarf  always gets in there. Whether you vacuum or use air. Swarf  gets everywhere in my opinion.
    Air is just so efficient to clean out a vise or the crap on chuck jaws. I’d rather have a clean surface than worry about forcing some debris in somewhere. Too many times.... I ended up with a part not properly seating or gripping because there was a tiny piece of metal hung up somewhere.
Sometimes....going by the book just isn’t practical in my opinion.


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## finsruskw (Feb 12, 2021)

Braeden P said:


> mr pete alway says not to use air on a lathe or mill so i won't use that and the way dont have wipers! like really a top end lathe with no wipers!


I meant for drying parts after cleaning in the ultrasonic solution.
I never use air to blow chips either.


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## NegativeK (Feb 12, 2021)

finsruskw said:


> Used an ultrasonic unit for my 9A resto last year.
> Get the big one, great for paint removal as well.
> Holds about 5 gal.
> Add some plain old dishwashing liquid and you are in business!
> ...


How much did the big one cost?

@Larry$ I can't pretend that their quality control is going to be perfect, so I'm sure the negative reviews have a basis. But if you get one that doesn't have those problems, holy cow does it work!


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## finsruskw (Feb 12, 2021)

NegativeK said:


> How much did the big one cost?
> 
> @Larry$ I can't pretend that their quality control is going to be perfect, so I'm sure the negative reviews have a basis. But if you get one that doesn't have those problems, holy cow does it work!


Don't recall for sure but I am thinking in the $200 range.
Could probably go back through PayPal records and dig up the true cost.
Anyway, it sure does the trick and it's a keeper.


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## Larry$ (Feb 12, 2021)

NegativeK said:


> I just finished cleaning a knee mill with (odorless) mineral spirits and an ultrasonic cleaner. Paint the liquid on, scrub with a paper towel, scrape with a plastic pry tool or a razor blade, wipe the crud off. 10-15 years of auto shop grunge and tire dust.
> 
> For anything that I could remove, I used a cheap Amazon ultrasonic cleaner. A friend said they die within a year in a chemistry lab settings, so I went in knowing it's not a buy it for life item -- but I paid about $150, and it probably saved me 20 hours sitting at a bench, scraping and scrubbing screws and handles and knobs.
> 
> ...


That's an impressive cleanup. I can even see your image in the handle.


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## Choiliefan (Feb 13, 2021)

OT: I had a neighbor who was a moldmaker with a very messy shop.  All kinds of crap piled around, stuff always in the way, with a series of narrow paths to different parts of his shop.  One day, he was cutting some steel with an OA torch.  He stepped wrong onto some "debris" and caught himself falling and as he did, he ran that cutting flame across his left palm.  

I saw him after the fact and he explained what happened in great detail, including how he locked-up, got to his van and drove a couple miles to the hospital.  I saw the dressed wound -- one of the worst things I'd seen up to that point in my young life.  Thing is, he said after the ER visit, he headed back to his shop to finish what he had been doing.  Amazing guy in many ways.  An injury like that would have kept me in bed for days as I recuperated, mentally and physically.

Seems to me as the crustier I get, the more a de-greaser burns, the better product it just has to be...    However I have learned to appreciate a good low-perfume, soothing lotion like Eucerin.


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## Toolmaker51 (Feb 13, 2021)

Not to chide anyone, but the comment on not "having a top-end lathe with way wipers" caught me.
A strip of stainless shim stock, some brass shim stock underneath, tin snips and punch or drill holes in. Drill and tap carriage; Viola!
There are many metallic wipers; long enough to bend from vertical to plane of ways, like a putty knife. Leave a little brass exposed, covered by the stainless acting as a spring. Put felt behind brass if you like and saturate periodically with way lube oil.
An easy alternative is thin aluminum strip, ~1/8" to 3/16" as holders for brass strips or combine with felt. 
Either way, while set up and confident in results, make spare strips.

The 'obvious' choice of rubber is a higher order of difficulty, those need beveling to get 'under' chips, are commonly molded.


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