# Total Newb, Rushing Down Another Rabbit Hole!



## Ulma Doctor (Sep 27, 2019)

i had a chance to see a 3d printer, a little too close.
it captured my imagination, but thrust the spear of doubt upon my thoughts.
how can i 3d print something???
i have experience with motor controls and plc industrial thingy's- but i have no experience in g-code or co-ordinate multi-axis control.
that is where the doubt came in, how can i print something if i don't know the first thing about it???
i binge watched youtube on the ender 3, the brand i was going to run with.
i din't buy the pro , as recommended.
not for cost reasons alone, from what i understand you end up customizing just about everything anyway-
i'll spend the money on the better gear as i go 
here is how it came







here is a picture of the first print i ever made!
41 minutes!









i plugged the thumb drive into my tower computer.
the creality 1.2.3 was loaded onto my computer
i loaded the stock rendering from the object file
and scaled it through the slicer
i saved the gcode to the sd card and went through the first warm up sequence and leveled the bed.
after the extruder came to temperature and the bed came to temperature, 
i loaded the sliced gcode file with a twist and push of a knob.
the printer and software is incredibly easy to use and i feel like i missed out on a lot of stuff earlier,
due to my own ignorance .

i have a ton to learn, but i'm sure i'll get a whole bunch of use from this amazing tool!

thanks for reading!


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## darkzero (Sep 27, 2019)

Nice. I want one! I have always been scared to get one cause when they first starting getting popular models/brands were getter better so quick & cheaper. I didn't want to end up with something halfway obselete. By now I assume that has tapered off a lot. I just looked up the Ender, had no idea they cost was that low now. Maybe it's time I get one. Is the Ender a pretty popular & reputable printer?


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## Ulma Doctor (Sep 27, 2019)

darkzero said:


> Nice. I want one! I have always been scared to get one cause when they first starting getting popular models/brands were getter better so quick & cheaper. I didn't want to end up with something halfway obselete. By now I assume that has tapered off a lot. I just looked up the Ender, had no idea they cost was that low now. Maybe it's time I get one. Is the Ender a pretty popular & reputable printer?


I know next to nothing about 3d printers in general.
They appear to be popular and there are a lot of the ender 3 parts and upgrades
The cura software slicer comes with the kit too!
I would recommend it to anyone curious and would not delay like I did!


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## Janderso (Sep 27, 2019)

Oh Mike, say it aint so!
You drank from the Kool-Aid, you stumbled into the dark side.
Congratulations!
I can see the value of owning one, I just don't know how to make anything.
We talked about reproducing a broken or missing part on a machine that is obsolete.
There are thousands of opportunities but how????
This old dog don't like Kool-Aid.


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## C-Bag (Sep 27, 2019)

Ulma Doctor said:


> I know next to nothing about 3d printers in general.
> They appear to be popular and there are a lot of the ender 3 parts and upgrades
> The cura software slicer comes with the kit too!
> I would recommend it to anyone curious and would not delay like I did!


I've been watching them for years now as I'm curious about everything. But I wasn't sure I had an application to what Id do with one. So I appreciate you posting your adventures with this. IMHO you still might be early to this as things have been ironed out and more user friendly than the past. As you so aptly point out Doc it is a rabbit hole because it isn't just the machine, but it's also the software that piles up the "daunt" for a guy who doesn't use CAD or CNC. 

I had to laugh at myself when I saw the pic of your first print of the owl and was shocked with the next one with your thumb. My brain said "that's the worlds largest thumb!" as I was sure that owl was  at least 3-4" tall.


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## brino (Sep 27, 2019)

Ulma Doctor said:


> here is a picture of the first print i ever made!



Excellent Mike. Welcome to the new world of "additive machining".
You have already shown us your mastery of metal and wood.
What's next after you conquer plastic? Stone carving?



Janderso said:


> I can see the value of owning one, I just don't know how to make anything.
> We talked about reproducing a broken or missing part on a machine that is obsolete.



Jeff, that may not be as tall a hurdle as you think.....
Before I had a clue how to draw much in Fusion-360, I produced a threading dial for a SouthBend lathe:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...nted-threading-dial-for-a-southbend-9c.67878/
The model was already drawn and posted for free on Thingiverse! (link in that thread)

I'm still not very good at CAD (especially with Autodesk recently changing the Fusion-360 interface to a ribbon style; but's that's a rant for another day!).

-brino


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## stioc (Sep 27, 2019)

Very timely thread as I've been of the same mindset as several others in this thread i.e. I'll get one once the technology matures a bit. I've been eyeing the Ender or Ender Pro myself. I like the CR10S for the extra size but it looks like it's half the speed of the Ender but again I know nothing about 3D printers...yet.


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## Ulma Doctor (Oct 1, 2019)

brino said:


> Excellent Mike. Welcome to the new world of "additive machining".
> You have already shown us your mastery of metal and wood.
> What's next after you conquer plastic? Stone carving?
> 
> ...


Thanks Brino!!
you are way too kind in using the word master in description , but thank you! 
i fear i'm going to the dark side, where gcode and cnc control may take favor 

fear not, i will unplug or spill a pepsi upon my AI overlord should a revolution arise!


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## Ulma Doctor (Oct 1, 2019)

Janderso said:


> Oh Mike, say it aint so!
> You drank from the Kool-Aid, you stumbled into the dark side.
> Congratulations!
> I can see the value of owning one, I just don't know how to make anything.
> ...


the kool aid was a bit easy to swallow, sorry to say
it so dang easy, i'm kicking myself for being scared.
there is a learning curve, but you could do it with some dedication.


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## Ulma Doctor (Oct 1, 2019)

C-Bag said:


> I've been watching them for years now as I'm curious about everything. But I wasn't sure I had an application to what Id do with one. So I appreciate you posting your adventures with this. IMHO you still might be early to this as things have been ironed out and more user friendly than the past. As you so aptly point out Doc it is a rabbit hole because it isn't just the machine, but it's also the software that piles up the "daunt" for a guy who doesn't use CAD or CNC.
> 
> I had to laugh at myself when I saw the pic of your first print of the owl and was shocked with the next one with your thumb. My brain said "that's the worlds largest thumb!" as I was sure that owl was  at least 3-4" tall.


@C-Bag , don't be sacred
there is so much 3d stuff that someone else has done the real work on.
you are basically moving files from one program to another
the important program is the slicer, it generates the g-code.
the slicer program comes with the printer !!!! 
there are some basic 3d objects that are also included on the little memory card(SD Card)
you can simply load the cat object file, for example.
the cat would appear in the slicer engine where you can set the size as well as control printing options
or you can print the scale and size as the original is suggested.
there is a site called tinkercad, it is literally the simplest cad program i have used- DON'T BE SCARED
you can take tanything you create from tinkercad and send it to the slicer, the slicer can make size and dimensional changes and create the gcode.
you send the gcode to the SD card and insert the SD card into the 3d printer
after a warm-up sequence, the printer goes to work
you can watch it or go do other things, periodically checking in on progress.
sometimes detailed prints can hours, if not days, for very large objects

come my friend, join me down here in the rabbit hole


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## Ulma Doctor (Oct 1, 2019)

stioc said:


> Very timely thread as I've been of the same mindset as several others in this thread i.e. I'll get one once the technology matures a bit. I've been eyeing the Ender or Ender Pro myself. I like the CR10S for the extra size but it looks like it's half the speed of the Ender but again I know nothing about 3D printers...yet.


i was told not to spend the extra money on the ender 3 pro, so i didn't.
it has done almost everything i have asked, until i started to modify the speed too greatly- it is unforgiving in that sense
it likes to run at about 50mm/second but can go slightly higher
the price is almost cheap and it doesn't take long to make some pretty cool stuff.
i'll post pictures of stuff soon


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## CluelessNewB (Oct 1, 2019)

I recently purchased a Creality CR-10S.   (Like I don't already have too many hobbies...)    I printed a couple of canned objects to get started.   I then started playing around with Tinkercad and have actually created a few useful objects (and a few failures).   I downloaded a new version of Cura (4.2.1, there is already a newer one).  One useful object I created was an attachment that screws on the end of a boat hook that holds the working end of a cheapo ebay borescope.  I created this to inspect the prop on my sailboat without having to go over the side in the cold Maine water. It works great.  I could have made this in metal but I didn't have a tap for the weird broomstick thread.  I found pre-designed socket for that thread on Thingiverse and combined that with a custom part to hold the borescope end using Tinkercad.   

I have also created some stamps for pottery work.   You can take a 2D jpg or png file and bring it directly into Cura.  You can add height to it and add a base to make a stamp.  This would also be useful for making tags or name plates.  I'm planning to make one to replace a missing tag on my Atlas Mill stand.  

So far I have only used PLA but I would like to try some more weather and sunlight resistant materials which will probably require modifications and an enclosure for the machine.


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## C-Bag (Oct 1, 2019)

Ulma Doctor said:


> @C-Bag , don't be sacred
> there is so much 3d stuff that someone else has done the real work on.
> you are basically moving files from one program to another
> the important program is the slicer, it generates the g-code.
> ...


Come on in the rabbit hole is fine LOL!


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## stioc (Oct 1, 2019)

I saw a video from CHEP (didn't know who he was, but seems well respected?) comparing the CR-10 mini with the Ender and Ender pro. Basically he likes the CR-10 better. However, a while ago when I compared the specs the Enders seemed almost twice as fast (at least how fast the steppers can go and the pro had a 24v power supply making it heat the bed up quicker). Anyway, so at this time I'm leaning towards the CR-10 based on CHEP's video. However, I'm holding tight on the purchase until I finish up a couple of other projects I started. I know if I bought one those other projects will get thrown on the back burner. May be the CR-10 will be a xmas present to myself.


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## Ulma Doctor (Oct 1, 2019)

I have watched a bunch of CHEP’s videos.
He has a lot of info. I’d recommend his videos to anyone who has interest in 3d printers


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## C-Bag (Oct 1, 2019)

This points out a fundamental doubt about 3D printers is everybody has their viewpoint and machine. I ran headlong into this wall when I decided I truly needed a lathe and mill. For every single person who liked and used a particular machine there were lots of detractors and not being versed in any of it finally just had the raw economics make the decision. The best deal I could find on CL  for the size I envisioned work I thought I'd be doing. 

I'll repeat I'm looking fwd to seeing what you use this for Doc and how it applies to what I do. I'm also in the same boat I see everybody else in, too many standing projects and having to triage immediate need vs amount of time it takes learn to use vs amount of $$$. Sorry to sound so skeptical of your new love but one of the reasons I was forced to get a lathe and mill was what I wanted and needed I couldn't buy off the shelf and it just seems to compound. It would be interesting to see like CluelessNewB did where you could come up with something where there was existing bits and pieces you could mash together to make what I want. I'm also leery of plastic like PLA as I'd want something more structural. So I'll be paying close attention to where your wabbit hole leads you to.


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## Ulma Doctor (Oct 1, 2019)

C-Bag said:


> This points out a fundamental doubt about 3D printers is everybody has their viewpoint and machine. I ran headlong into this wall when I decided I truly needed a lathe and mill. For every single person who liked and used a particular machine there were lots of detractors and not being versed in any of it finally just had the raw economics make the decision. The best deal I could find on CL  for the size I envisioned work I thought I'd be doing.
> 
> I'll repeat I'm looking fwd to seeing what you use this for Doc and how it applies to what I do. I'm also in the same boat I see everybody else in, too many standing projects and having to triage immediate need vs amount of time it takes learn to use vs amount of $$$. Sorry to sound so skeptical of your new love but one of the reasons I was forced to get a lathe and mill was what I wanted and needed I couldn't buy off the shelf and it just seems to compound. It would be interesting to see like CluelessNewB did where you could come up with something where there was existing bits and pieces you could mash together to make what I want. I'm also leery of plastic like PLA as I'd want something more structural. So I'll be paying close attention to where your wabbit hole leads you to.


Fair enough, all are valid reasons to sit on the fence, for now...
we'll be waiting


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## Ulma Doctor (Oct 1, 2019)

here is a couple pictures of my most intensive print yet.
a 3d printed ratchet!!!!!
this design was made and printed on the international space station
it is rated for 3 inch pounds and only appears to tighten fasteners
the ratchet was printed in one continuous session.
all the moving parts were printed inside non moving parts!!! 
it has a 3/8" square drive and is just about 5" long












i think this printer is amazing!


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## AlanB (Oct 1, 2019)

Cute ratchet!

I bought a 3D printer a couple years ago to make one part type I needed (in modest quantity) - a variety of spacers with two different radii and internal curved cable tie slots. Seems like I make a couple designs a week for something or other now. It has far exceeded my expectations for return on investment. It is really handy for prototyping too. I use the free OpenSCAD software to design stuff with, many prefer Fusion360 or other CAD programs. It is also a gentle way to break into CNC though you really don't get into much gcode with the state of the 3D printers and slicing software.

Here's a design I did a few days ago for my ebike. It holds a pair of displays and uses two cable ties to attach to the handlebars in the middle. This is the print orientation, in use it is flipped over. The cable tie slots are curved inside the plastic. Would be a challenge to mill these slots. 

It is a great way to make temporary parts when doing a CNC conversion, both for prototyping and for bootstrapping. Plastic works fine for a lot of things, at least temporarily if not permanently. Like motor mounts. Good enough for permanent use for many other things like tool organizers, mounting brackets, covers, chip shields, electrical enclosures, handles and various holders that are under low stress.

I print mostly PLA and occasionally PETG when I need something higher temperature. I don't print ABS as it is too problematic with toxic fumes and shrinkage problems.

Which machine doesn't matter too much, choose something that fits your budget and meets your feature set and make sure it has good support from somewhere. If you care about open source some companies follow it and some just don't, so do some research there to guide your choice.

I've been planning to get and CNC a mill for years, however my 3D printers are used much more than the CNC mill will be.


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## vtcnc (Oct 3, 2019)

Congrats UD! Yes I agree with everything you say here. There is nothing to be afraid of with these. As far as the machine goes, the most remarkable technology about this is the slicer software. Everything else I am confident that the average hobby machinist can at least familiarize himself with.

I heard through the grapevine that the power connectors on the Ender 3 are shoddy. That is one reason I went with the Pro. Also, they upgraded the power supply and rearranged some of the fan placements to solve some complaints they have. I think the only other change is the magnetic sheet which I finally tossed and use as a hobby cutting mat.


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## Ulma Doctor (Oct 5, 2019)

well i've been a busy boy!
here is the latest printing
M8 nuts bolts, and washers- just for fun!


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## Ulma Doctor (Oct 5, 2019)

here are a couple more prints...








and


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## MikeWi (Oct 6, 2019)

I have an Ender 3 and I will agree that the Pro really isn't worth it for what  you're getting. That said, it's meant to be a bargain basement entry into printing, so while it works great, and will teach you much, there's plenty of room for upgrades and customization to make it even better when you want to.  You can end up spending just as much in the long run as some of the other printers out there, but you'll also be an expert, and know more than how to just turn it on, as well as getting to that point at your own pace. You're going to have a lot of fun with this that's for sure, and I guarantee that you'll be looking back at that 41 minute print time for that little owl and laugh later. 

As far as pro/cons among brands, each type is more or less the same thing, just with  a different list of features that come stock. so there isn't really much mud to sling, just different preferences.


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## Winegrower (Oct 6, 2019)

I have used Shapeways (.com) for special shapes for higher temperature science experiments, like 700 degrees F.   They print green ceramic, then glaze and fire the part.  You send in a Solidworks model and they print it and do the rest.   The last part I did was a tube with some somewhat complicated inner and outer structure, some radial holes, maybe 1.5” OD by 4” long.  A couple weeks or less, $17 each.    I felt that was very cost effective.


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## Ulma Doctor (Oct 11, 2019)

if you know what these are, we were cut from the same cloth!


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## Ulma Doctor (Oct 29, 2019)

here are some more prints...





(i poorly glued it together) it was printed in 3 parts

AXA toolholder hangers with mounting screw bores


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## Ulma Doctor (Oct 29, 2019)

the single greatest improvement i could recommend to a newbie getting an Ender 3,
do the 3 point bed leveling conversion
there are 2 types i'm aware of, one you replace the base mount plate and you don't have to drill your heat plate

the other bed leveler print was developed and shared by member @Rex Walters
here is the page from where i got the download









						Simple Ender 3 mod for 3-point tramming by rrwrex
					

CAUTION 3/7/2021 The bed and tool-head aren't the only things that get hot on your printer. Since the flat-head leveling screws are also directly attached to the bed, they will also get hot. If you are already using this thing or plan to, please ensure that the screws are thermally isolated from...




					www.thingiverse.com
				





thank you @Rex Walters !!!

the 3 point leveling changed the game completely

there is only one problem, you must drill your heat plate very close to the circuit printed on the backside of the plate
but if you are careful and remove the heat plate from the printer, a single 4mm countersunk hole is all that is necessary

i didn't take pictures of the process, but i did take pictures between prints of the installed 3 point retrofit

the red piece is the 3d printed part










no need to replace the carriage plate.

this was an easy upgrade that makes a huge of difference in print quality and ease of leveling
i'd highly recommend a 3 point level to anyone, however you go about it!
happy printing!


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## MikeWi (Oct 30, 2019)

With all respect to Ulma Doctor there's an even better way. Get rid of the springs entirely using solid shims, or just tighten them down all the way. Then get a probe and do mesh leveling. You'll only have to level when you change the bed surface.


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## Ulma Doctor (Oct 30, 2019)

MikeWi said:


> With all respect to Ulma Doctor there's an even better way. Get rid of the springs entirely using solid shims, or just tighten them down all the way. Then get a probe and do mesh leveling. You'll only have to level when you change the bed surface.


thank you very much for the information!


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## Aaron_W (Oct 31, 2019)

Mike you are having so much fun.




C-Bag said:


> This points out a fundamental doubt about 3D printers is everybody has their viewpoint and machine. I ran headlong into this wall when I decided I truly needed a lathe and mill. For every single person who liked and used a particular machine there were lots of detractors and not being versed in any of it finally just had the raw economics make the decision. The best deal I could find on CL  for the size I envisioned work I thought I'd be doing.




You are absolutely right about this. I've been interested in 3D printing from before I had an interest in machining. In fact I was debating a 3D printer vs the Sherline lathe I eventually bought (3D printers cost a lot more and could do a lot less back then) so I've been following them for at least 10 years.

I joined a FB 3D printer group, and when people ask about which printer to buy you can almost substitute lathe / mill and the brand names and they would be about the same, well except for the old USA iron bit, being much younger technology that is rapidly advancing there isn't much if any push to go with old machines.

There are lots of machines out there but the two that come to the top as far as recommendations are the Ender 3 (cheap, but works) and Prusa 3 (not so cheap, but comes with all the cool mods so you don't need to add them yourself). I get the impression the Ender 3 is the 7x14 mini-lathe of the 3D printers (except for size, the Ender is comparable to many others in that regard).

With the Ender 3 available for less than $200 it does seem to be a pretty painless choice. Don't feel bad though, because like I said above I've been interested for a long time and still suffering from massive analysis paralysis.  Ender or Prusa, PLA or resin oh my.   

BTW I had made a decision and was all set to get the Prusa i3 for my birthday (November) when you posted that damn CL ad, and my birthday present turned into 800lbs of cast iron milling machine instead. It is ok though, they will make more 3D printers, so maybe I'll get an Ender 3 for Christmas. Plus 3D printers are evolving so quickly that delays result in getting a machine that is cheaper, better or both. I'm also really digging the old mill.


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## C-Bag (Oct 31, 2019)

Aaron_W said:


> Mike you are having so much fun.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I LOVE that term analysis paralysis, that so describes what happens to me. I rarely spend less than a year researching into something before I take the leap. For the so many decades it was because I had no $$. But then it became a permanent habit when the net came along because it used to be so hard to find info. Now it's the opposite. There is almost too much info liberally sprinkled with diverse opinions. But like with your mill it almost always pays off because a deal always comes along. So far my need for specialized plastic parts hasn't gotten to critical mass so I've not gotten beyond the curious point. It is really fun to watch it evolve.


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## MikeWi (Nov 1, 2019)

The price on the Ender3 was what finally made me get one. Well, that and the need to make some parts. I've easily spent more on upgrades than I did on the original printer, but it's been a fun process that I don't regret one bit.


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## C-Bag (Nov 1, 2019)

I love following vicariously people's passion for something that interests me but I've not gotten the bug yet. I read a lot of sci-fi and 3D printing has become the solution to so many future scenarios. And like with the thing Jim Dawson posted the other day it is the next thing because you can do what would be impossible otherwise. 

My reasons that the bug hasn't hit yet is it is still evolving so fast and not only are the prices coming down the whole thing is more and more simplified which for me is going to have to be more intuitive less time consuming. I don't do CAD. Also I don't do much with plastic. But I did do one of my first projects the other day. But I was able to do it with my lathe and mill. Once I run into something I absolutely need and can't do with my present equipment the I will not be able to shake the bug I know.

I've been needing a way to vac the huge load of chips that come off my radius cutter that forms my UHMW forms I make for metal pressure forming. The usual vac nozzle close the part was way better than no vac. It was a 40% reduction from no vac, but still chips all over the shop. I decided to use a 2" PVC elbow, hole saw a 1 3/4" hole through it and turn down a 2" solid piece of PVC rod and bore it to fit on my die grinder and epoxy elbow and PVC piece together. Works beautifully with just maybe 2% the mess now.


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## brino (Nov 1, 2019)

C-Bag said:


> Works beautifully with just maybe 2% the mess now.



Can you please do a video (or even still shots) of that in action?
Thanks,
-brino


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## C-Bag (Nov 1, 2019)

brino said:


> Can you please do a video (or even still shots) of that in action?
> Thanks,
> -brino


I'm in the middle of a different project right now, but I'd be glad to try. I only have an iPad for vid and not sure about posting vids. Have any pointers Brino? Or anybody?


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## brino (Nov 1, 2019)

C-Bag said:


> Have any pointers Brino? Or anybody?



Sorry, not me.....I shun apple products.
-brino

PS: I suppose we should move this discussion and your video to a new thread and give 'Doc back his thread dedicated to 3-D printing.....


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## MikeWi (Nov 1, 2019)

Yeah, get outa here ya non-3d'rs! 
_This_, is a place for the _enlightened_.


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## brino (Nov 1, 2019)

MikeWi said:


> Yeah, get outa here ya non-3d'rs!
> _This_, is a place for the _enlightened_.



I resent the implication that I'm only two dimensional!

Besides, I'm already among the converted:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/finally-made-the-jump-to-3d-printing.62834/
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...nted-threading-dial-for-a-southbend-9c.67878/
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/3d-printed-knobs-for-drill-press-quill-handle.67653/
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/a-3d-printed-bandsaw-blade-table-insert.66772/
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/3d-printed-foredom-handpiece-holster.66409/

We just gotta assimilate all the rest of them!
-brino


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## C-Bag (Nov 1, 2019)

Ahhhh, now I get it, Brino the Borg


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## MikeWi (Nov 2, 2019)

Resistance is futile!


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## Ulma Doctor (Nov 7, 2019)

Here are some counterfeit parts i reverse engineered from manufactured parts 

on the left the factory part, on the right my prototype copy






on the left, the factory part, on the right my copy









for more of what i'm up to, 
here is a link to my tinkercad page








						Ulma_Doctor | Tinkercad
					

Tinkercad user Ulma_Doctor. i like to create and copy, and make improvements to machinery and gadgetry of many kinds




					www.tinkercad.com


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## Tozguy (Nov 8, 2019)

Brino, I looked through the links you provided above and used up my quota of 'likes' for this month.


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## helmbelly (Nov 9, 2019)

God the stair stepping looks like you recorded a CRT tv screen of a 1990 era Super Mario Bros video game with a VHS camera! Can you sand that stuff? The M8 bolts - can you actually use them in any practical sense - like for an oil drain plug? Will they deform/melt? I just dont know what 3D printing is right now - is it for bling or can I make a worm gear for my 1905 Seneca Falls Lathe ?


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## Ulma Doctor (Nov 9, 2019)

helmbelly said:


> God the stair stepping looks like you recorded a CRT tv screen of a 1990 era Super Mario Bros video game with a VHS camera! Can you sand that stuff? The M8 bolts - can you actually use them in any practical sense - like for an oil drain plug? Will they deform/melt? I just dont know what 3D printing is right now - is it for bling or can I make a worm gear for my 1905 Seneca Falls Lathe ?


most of the prints have been at the low quality settings, the prints can be made with finer printing settings.
i'm not sure if can be sanded successfully

the m8 bolts are 80% air as they were printed.
the nuts and bolts could be used for low stress binding, but i'd reprint them in nylon or delrin if i was serious about using them.
PLA temperature constraints would not favor these bolts for oil plugs on IC engines, but there are practical applications.

if you were to make an oversized print in PLA, you could take that print, pack it in green sand and pour your favorite molten alloy - bronze, aluminum, iron, or whatever you like- and cast a real part as a lost plastic process
plus there is plenty of bling to print too! 

i'm finding the 3d printer very helpful in replacement part product development for retrofitting obsolete & overly expensive factory parts for machinery i maintain and raise from the dead


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## Ulma Doctor (Nov 9, 2019)

here is an example of a design i recently completed for an LED driver enclosure

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/419YWs2BSzS-led-driver-box

the driver:





the enclosure: top view





the enclosure: side view





the enclosure: with driver installed







many more prints to come!


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## Ulma Doctor (Nov 11, 2019)

Just a point of information....


i made an upgrade to the motherboard, due to sound output.
the ender3 makes a lot of electronic noise in operation.

i found an upgrade motherboard that eliminates all the noise, the V1.1.5 silent board.
the cost was $45 with freight on ebay

the installation was straightforward ,about 45 minutes in all

let me say that the printer fan is the only noise i hear.
if you want noise reduction, the silent board is the ticket!


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## vtcnc (Nov 11, 2019)

Ulma Doctor said:


> i'm finding the 3d printer very helpful in replacement part product development for retrofitting obsolete & overly expensive factory parts for machinery i maintain and raise from the dead


I needed a 1/2" knockout plug for my sub panel in the shop. Readily available on Thingiverse. Downloaded, sliced and printed in 15 minutes. Got to keep working in the shop, avoid going to the store and spending money on a part that doesn't fit.


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## Ulma Doctor (Nov 26, 2019)

Here is the latest success,
i designed and printed stop and start switch placards for 30mm momentary switches
and just for hoots, i designed and printed the adapters for 22mm switches

here is the placards and adapters...





and how they are used!
(this is for a retrofit control box at work 30mm switches)






see them here, feel free to download!









						3D design Start Switch Plate 30mm | Tinkercad
					

3D design Start Switch Plate 30mm created by Ulma_Doctor with Tinkercad




					www.tinkercad.com
				












						3D design Stop Switch Plate 30mm | Tinkercad
					

3D design Stop Switch Plate 30mm created by Ulma_Doctor with Tinkercad




					www.tinkercad.com
				












						3D design 30mm to 22mm momentary switch adapter | Tinkercad
					

3D design 30mm to 22mm momentary switch adapter created by Ulma_Doctor with Tinkercad




					www.tinkercad.com


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## brino (Nov 26, 2019)

Hi Mike,

Looks good.

It would be nice if the text could be done in another colour, perhaps black, for better contrast.
The few times I have tried sharpie markers on 3D printed objects the ink "runs" along the strands.

I have been considering a dual extruder upgrade for such things.

-brino


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## Ulma Doctor (Nov 27, 2019)

brino said:


> Hi Mike,
> 
> Looks good.
> 
> ...


Thanks Brino!!

I could not agree more!
I was relying on color cue for identification, but if an operator is color blind, that would negate color cue.
I’m also very curious about dual extrusion


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## MikeWi (Nov 27, 2019)

You can even do this with a single extruder by pausing it when it's time to switch color and changing the filament. Only practical if it will stay one color for each "half" of the print, or you'll go crazy!


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## brino (Nov 27, 2019)

hmmmmm.......I wonder if you could do the lettering in negative, that is, print them as recesses on the plate.
and then print the letters standalone in another colour and insert them into the "holes".
Like a jig-saw puzzle or "inlay" on fine wood working.
Of course, dealing with the tolerances of both parts might drive you nuts....

-brino


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## middle.road (Dec 12, 2019)

Ulma Doctor said:


> i had a chance to see a 3d printer, a little too close.
> it captured my imagination, but thrust the spear of doubt upon my thoughts.
> how can i 3d print something???
> i have experience with motor controls and plc industrial thingy's- but i have no experience in g-code or co-ordinate multi-axis control.
> ...


Motor Controls & PLCs?, and you were concerned with 3D printing and a little G-Code...?
yeah - riiiiiight. Gimme a break.   
By next spring I can't even begin to imagine what you will have come up with.
I like the AXA Tool Holder holders.
So many cool things that  can be knocked out for use in the shop alone, not to mention other items (as shown).


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## 7milesup (Dec 18, 2019)

Prusa.   
Multi- material capability.  Prusa. 
Mesh leveling out of the box.  Prusa. 
Awesome support.  Prusa.
One of the largest and most respected 3d printer companies out there.  Prusa.  

Yeah, I like my Prusa.    sure the prusa probably cost more but by the time you're done upgrading all of these other machines price point is most likely very similar.

As Ulma Doctor is finding out the possibilities for a 3D printer are almost endless. I printed an adapter for a dust collection hose on my belt and Disc Sander. I am into large-scale radio controlled aircraft and helicopters and the ability to make scale Parts is endless.

Also, for the folks that are looking for an extremely powerful CAD program might I suggest SolidWorks. Yes normally it is $5,000 but if you join Experimental Aircraft Association for $50 a year you can download SolidWorks for free. It is a student version but otherwise it is the same as what a company would purchase. The only difference is when you print out a drawing it says student version.


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## C-Bag (Dec 18, 2019)

Ulma Doctor said:


> Here is the latest success,
> i designed and printed stop and start switch placards for 30mm momentary switches
> and just for hoots, i designed and printed the adapters for 22mm switches
> 
> ...


What, no Sharpie button!


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## middle.road (Dec 18, 2019)

I've got a Flashforge sitting on my bench that an acquaintance 'loaned' me a couple of years ago to 'get it working correctly'.
Then I started reading up about all upgrades, mods, changes, re-engineering that kinda should be done to make it usable.
Haven't ventured down the wabbit hole yet because there just doesn't seem to be the time.


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## Ulma Doctor (Dec 28, 2019)

i got the G-Code for a couple fans
the fan on the left is nearly perfect, whereas the fan on the right looks really poor
the same machine printed both fans


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## C-Bag (Dec 28, 2019)

So you got some bad code for the one on the right? Is there any way to test or tweak the code?


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## ub27Rocks (Dec 28, 2019)

I only use code that I generate/slice myself. If you can get the stl file then do your own slicing. There is almost no way to know what settings or machine that gcode was for. CHEP on YouTube just posted an update on Cura 4.4 settings for the Ender 3. Love my machine..
The only update I did is the Bullseye fan shroud,, nothing else needed. I level once every 8-10 print so the bl touch isn't worth it Imo.


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## 7milesup (Dec 28, 2019)

Very hard to tell what exactly went wrong there but...
On the fan on the right, it looks like the print temp may have been too low.  Did you compare the temps, travel speeds and support system between the two?   What type of material?
I have found that many times the "suggested" print temps or speed for example in Cura or other slicing software do not work well.  I routinely bump temps up, including bed temp.  If you watch the print closely from the beginning, you can see early on (usually) whether the settings are going to work.


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## MikeWi (Dec 29, 2019)

Yeah, other people's profiles can only be considered starting points. It's doubtful that the same one would work for everyone, even if it's the same printer. Too many variables.

It's hard to tell what's going on, even zoomed in. I'm assuming it was printed in the orientation that we're seeing? Which one was printed first? 
Edit: just realized you got the Gcode, not the STL files. There's the problem.


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## Ulma Doctor (Jan 1, 2020)

7milesup said:


> Very hard to tell what exactly went wrong there but...
> On the fan on the right, it looks like the print temp may have been too low.  Did you compare the temps, travel speeds and support system between the two?   What type of material?
> I have found that many times the "suggested" print temps or speed for example in Cura or other slicing software do not work well.  I routinely bump temps up, including bed temp.  If you watch the print closely from the beginning, you can see early on (usually) whether the settings are going to work.


all things were equal, both printed PLA, @205°C  and 40°c bed ,on the same machine. same printing speed and sliced exactly the same on Cura 4.4.1


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## Ulma Doctor (Jan 1, 2020)

MikeWi said:


> Yeah, other people's profiles can only be considered starting points. It's doubtful that the same one would work for everyone, even if it's the same printer. Too many variables.
> 
> It's hard to tell what's going on, even zoomed in. I'm assuming it was printed in the orientation that we're seeing? Which one was printed first?
> Edit: just realized you got the Gcode, not the STL files. There's the problem.


i rarely get the g-code anymore- many didn't work.
i just download .stl's anymore


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## Ulma Doctor (Jan 1, 2020)

i was messin' around and designed and printed a sharpening stone holder for a 25x100x10 sharpening stone, i got from ebay



















here is a link so you can print a copy!


https://www.tinkercad.com/things/gcHynb5szx2 


enjoy!!!!


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## MikeWi (Jan 1, 2020)

I still have one of those rulers! LOL


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## Ulma Doctor (Jan 1, 2020)

MikeWi said:


> I still have one of those rulers! LOL


I got the ruler over 20 years ago.

These type of ruler was the first NCAD devise I learned to use, next to the mechanical pencil!


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## ub27Rocks (Jan 2, 2020)

That is a civil engineering scale, not meant for drawing lines with. Only for measuring. I have one as well as an engineering one in various 10th's etc


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## AlanB (Jan 6, 2020)

brino said:


> Hi Mike,
> 
> Looks good.
> 
> ...



With many slicers you can define a layer at which to do a filament change (or more than one if you wish). With raised (or indented) text this can work extremely well. I tried a few combinations and the raised text is more visible, the indented text has a narrow viewing angle. Not all printers support the filament change G-Code. Prusa Slicer and Prusa Mark 3 do support it.

The new Prusa Mini is a new lower cost slightly smaller printer that has great support and doesn't require all the hacking that the really cheap printers often need.

The Artillery Sidewinder X1 is a large CR10 size printer at a really low price point with good hardware.

Lots of choices...


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## Ulma Doctor (Feb 2, 2020)

the madness only increases as time goes on...

i upgraded to the Ender 5 and i'm totally satisfied with the speed, performance and printing quality
i would have rather had the ender 5 to start with, it was just a night and day difference.
the ender3 is great, but you need to constantly fiddle with something or other it seems
the ender 5 doesn't seem as dependent on operator intimacy to function.
i have only leveled the printer once since i set it up , (on set up btw) and haven't had to re-level since
i have run a 2.2 lb spool of PLA+ and produced more than 50 high quality prints , and faster on the Ender5
the difference between machines is night and day, the cost differential is negligible, if you want to print instead of fiddle around.


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## Ulma Doctor (Feb 2, 2020)

here is my latest print from the ender5

i created a chuck key holder on TinkerCad for my Hercus ARH Lathe and printed it on the Ender5 in less than 2 hours
it is 30% plastic 70% air, but i could stand on it and not crush it 










i can post links if there is interest from the peanut gallery

thanks for reading!


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## ub27Rocks (Feb 3, 2020)

I level my Ender 3 Pro once a week at most, just in case. No other fiddling required. Just moved to Simpify3D as well for more quality control.


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## Ulma Doctor (Mar 28, 2020)

i have been messing around on tinkercad again and came up with a few new designs.
here is a useful nozzle for your small (32mm) shop vacuum cleaner, it was made for the Bridgeport Mill  table slots
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/2NHfsekaPTa


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## 7milesup (Mar 28, 2020)

As you will find, the opportunities for making items to utilize in the shop are endless.   I recently made an adapter to go from my biscuit joiner (which makes a huge amount of dust) directly to my Craftsman shop vac hose.  Before, I had a cobbled up mess of some copper tube and hose clamps.  Also made some adapters for my Rikon disc/belt sander to go from their goofy size dust ports to pvc pipe and back to my shop vac.

So much fun!!!

I am also going to be printing a complete drill index with fractions, numbered and lettered drill sizes to fit in my custom drill bit cabinet that I built.


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## Ulma Doctor (Mar 28, 2020)

7milesup said:


> As you will find, the opportunities for making items to utilize in the shop are endless.   I recently made an adapter to go from my biscuit joiner (which makes a huge amount of dust) directly to my Craftsman shop vac hose.  Before, I had a cobbled up mess of some copper tube and hose clamps.  Also made some adapters for my Rikon disc/belt sander to go from their goofy size dust ports to pvc pipe and back to my shop vac.
> 
> So much fun!!!
> 
> I am also going to be printing a complete drill index with fractions, numbered and lettered drill sizes to fit in my custom drill bit cabinet that I built.


you said a mouthful there brother!
i'm having more fun finding reasons to design and print a project up.
plus it makes me looks busy (if i stand around for too long, i get a honey-doo as penance  )


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## Ulma Doctor (Mar 29, 2020)

here is a design for printing a 24tooth 1.5 module gear with a 14mm keyed bore








						3D design 24 tooth modulus 1.5 gear 14mm bore | Tinkercad
					

3D design 24 tooth modulus 1.5 gear 14mm bore created by Ulma_Doctor with Tinkercad




					www.tinkercad.com


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## GunsOfNavarone (Jun 30, 2020)

Ulma Doctor said:


> i had a chance to see a 3d printer, a little too close.
> it captured my imagination, but thrust the spear of doubt upon my thoughts.
> how can i 3d print something???
> i have experience with motor controls and plc industrial thingy's- but i have no experience in g-code or co-ordinate multi-axis control.
> ...


Man, that thumb came out amazingly realistic!
My wife wants one so I have been researching. I feel like a dual nozzle would be advantageous, she would like it to also laser engrave, but not a deal killer. I assume you did your homework and I respect your input. Any good reason you went with that one, were there others in the race.?I am really leaning towards Bibo3 I think it is. Pretty pricey...I think $700 but I'd be willing to do that for her since her luck has been so crap the last 8 months....


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## 7milesup (Jun 30, 2020)

Don't know anything about that one but the laser is 500mw.  That equals .5 watt.  Seems like a gimmick to me.  My friend has an 80 watt laser that he uses to etch glasses for his Amazon store.  I believe he uses 65 watts or more to etch glass.  Cutting wood in my opinion would need 10 watts minimum just for soft wood like balsa, etc.  It is sort of like welding.  You can cut stuff with a low power laser but it takes a lot of time, if it can be done at all.  More time means more of a burnt area around the cut line.
Creality makes decent printers as many do.  The one you posted has a glass heat bed.  I personally hate them because it is a pain to get prints to stick sometimes.  The ones like the Creality or Prusa with the PEI heat bed are the way to go IMHO.  
This is truly a rabbit hole.  If you want to engrave a little bit on something soft, like leather or similar, maybe that Bibo 3D will do it, but .5 watt is like trying to mill an engine block on and X2 mill.


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## GunsOfNavarone (Jun 30, 2020)

I have no basis to argue your points 7miles, but I see plenty of videos on YT of people finished products with that half watt laser. I do want to do my motorcycle seat so leather is kind of a must. Things like glass/metal do take crazy amounts of power, but those handheld ones that pop ballons and light matches are PROBABLY super low power? Maybe the wavelength as well plays into this?


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## 7milesup (Jun 30, 2020)

GunsOfNavarone said:


> I have no basis to argue your points 7miles, but I see plenty of videos on YT of people finished products with that half watt laser. I do want to do my motorcycle seat so leather is kind of a must. Things like glass/metal do take crazy amounts of power, but those handheld ones that pop ballons and light matches are PROBABLY super low power? Maybe the wavelength as well plays into this?



It sounds like you have done some research. I do admit that I do not know how low of power you can go and still get adequate results with a laser.  I have seriously been considering building a laser, but I want something to cut wood and engrave metal so I am looking at a dedicated machine of 100+ watts.  That is going to be a ways off though.
I have not looked at wavelength and how that might affect performance.  I have too many irons in the fire....LOL.


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## Ulma Doctor (Jun 30, 2020)

GunsOfNavarone said:


> Man, that thumb came out amazingly realistic!
> My wife wants one so I have been researching. I feel like a dual nozzle would be advantageous, she would like it to also laser engrave, but not a deal killer. I assume you did your homework and I respect your input. Any good reason you went with that one, were there others in the race.?I am really leaning towards Bibo3 I think it is. Pretty pricey...I think $700 but I'd be willing to do that for her since her luck has been so crap the last 8 months....


LOL, that's funny!
i did almost no homework at all. i watched as few videos and got too close to one- i was hooked and saw the same on ebay and grabbed it
if i were to do it again, i would have skipped the ender3 and went straight for the ender5
the Prusa seems to be the best bang for the $$$, but i have not had the pleasure of getting too close to one


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## GunsOfNavarone (Jul 1, 2020)

I am just lost in this...I am at a standstill. If I let the laser go and the dual extruder, many more doors open. Bed size seems important, not so much for large prints as for running multiple parts in one run....I dunno


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## Janderso (Jul 1, 2020)

Mike,
In your business, I would imagine broken obsolete equipment parts would be the perfect thing to fabricate.
The trick is to create it digitally.
Fusion 360 has me tied in knots.
It must be easier for people that grew up with cad.


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## Chipsky (Jul 1, 2020)

Interesting thread...

I do a bunch of 3D printing for work and fun and use some HTPLA at times. If you've not see the Proto-Pasta filament, you might find it useful. They have steel composite and iron composite (along with many others) that can be useful.  I sometimes use the steel composite when i need to do thinner part prototypes and want to maintain rigidity.  They are significantly stronger than PTEG, PLA, ABS, etc.  I've not experienced any initial or decay warping as well.


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