# Rod Storage?



## W6PUG (Jan 29, 2016)

Moved to the PNW from the CA desert, and I had forgotten about welding rod absorbing moisture until I was starting to set up my welding table. I grew up in MO/IA and on the farm we used to store rod in old refrig with lightbulb inside ... not sure if that is "normal" or not, or if we just convinced ourselves it worked ... anybody have any better ideas about rod storage in high humidity environments? Rod ovens are expensive and are not really for storage as much as trying to dry out/salvage rod ....I just need to store small qualities of rod between uses .... right now it is 48 degrees outside and 95% humidity ... go figger.
Thoughts? I appreciate any experience you might have! Take care and thanks in advance. ddj


----------



## David VanNorman (Jan 29, 2016)

I use a old refrigerator for rod storage and it works fine . I put a lamp base inside and an oven bulb in the socket . I check every now and then to see the bulb is working the rods stay nice and tostie.


----------



## ch2co (Jan 29, 2016)

You guys must have a lot more rod than I do!  I use a refrigerator too, for Beer , and its freezer for Chocolate.  But then I live in relatively dry Colorado and don't have this problem.


----------



## W6PUG (Jan 29, 2016)

Thanks ... I guess simple is better ... so that is what I will do ... I will find one of those small refrigs and stick a 50w bulb in it. Thanks .... doug


----------



## buddy3223 (Jan 29, 2016)

What I have done to control moisture in welding rods, I made a series of tubes out of pcv pipe. I glued a cap on one end and used a adapter and screw plug for the other. I placed a small light bulb in the cap to control moisture. The size of the tube can be made any size that will fit your needs. I also use these to store TiG wire to keep them from getting dirty.  You can easley mount on wall to keep out of the way.


----------



## kev74 (Jan 29, 2016)

Unless you have a ton of rod, how about just an air-tight container and a desiccant pack?  It would bug me to know I was using the electricity on a light bulb for the amount of welding I do.


----------



## brino (Jan 29, 2016)

Are we talking plain old arc welding(SMAW) rods, short and chemical coated?
Or TIG / oxy-acetylene rod that are long plain steel (with thin copper coat) that also tend to get rust spots if too old?

I suspect you mean the first type as you say "absorb moisture".
For that I use a storage container made for that very purpose, like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=rod+keeper

Also I made some using common plastic plumbing parts, the removable end is a screw off drain clean-out with gasket.





I try to get them into one of these as soon as they come out of the sealed package from the store.

-brino


----------



## W6PUG (Jan 29, 2016)

Guys - GREAT ideas .. I had not thought about PVC at all .. could even use large diameter pipe with ends, and put smaller size tubes inside for the 4 rods I basically use ... and could even put heater bulb in the big tube ... and had not even THOUGHT about a desiccant but of course that makes sense.  Brino, you are right: 6011, 6013, 7014, 7018 is what I use most.  Thank you guys for some great ideas ... I will dork around with them and come up with something and post what the end result is .... I really appreciate you guys taking time to respond to this ... it seems simple, and I guess it is, but I am a hobby shop and don't go through a lot of rod so when I buy it, I hate to throw away something 3 months later.
Again - thank you !! doug


----------



## modela (Jan 29, 2016)

You might try ebay.  They have some old dogs of ones listed around $60 including freight.  Living in Oregon, I know what you are up against.  Fortunately, I use Mig most of the time.

Another thing you might try is a couple of short pieces of metal ducting--say 12" diameter and 8" in diameter.  Fill the void in between with insulation and make a cover with a light bulb in it.  I did this a long time ago and it worked quite well.  

Jim


----------



## W6PUG (Feb 8, 2016)

buddy3223 said:


> What I have done to control moisture in welding rods, I made a series of tubes out of pcv pipe. I glued a cap on one end and used a adapter and screw plug for the other. I placed a small light bulb in the cap to control moisture. The size of the tube can be made any size that will fit your needs. I also use these to store TiG wire to keep them from getting dirty.  You can easley mount on wall to keep out of the way.


Would you mind sending me a pix of what you did? I went back and re-read some of these and yours jumped out at me again ... thanks in advance ... sorry to be a pain, but liked your idea ... doug


----------



## W6PUG (Feb 12, 2016)

brino said:


> Are we talking plain old arc welding(SMAW) rods, short and chemical coated?
> Or TIG / oxy-acetylene rod that are long plain steel (with thin copper coat) that also tend to get rust spots if too old?
> 
> I suspect you mean the first type as you say "absorb moisture".
> ...


I did get some of these but not sure once opened if they can keep SMAW rod dry ... but I like idea of bulb in them as heater ... and someone else mentioned putting a dessicant in tubes like yours, which I would have never thought of ... all really good ideas ... thanks!  doug


----------



## Deerslayer (Feb 13, 2016)

W6PUG said:


> I did get some of these but not sure once opened if they can keep SMAW rod dry ... but I like idea of bulb in them as heater ... and someone else mentioned putting a dessicant in tubes like yours, which I would have never thought of ... all really good ideas ... thanks!  doug



Our  area has moderate to high humidity and condensation as well heat cold extremes. I use the above containers in unconditioned garage with no heat source or desiccant. No problems at all, some of my rods are over 10 years old and still works as new. One thing I am vigilant about is I open the container pull out what I think I will need for project and put the lid back on right away, once the container is sealed the rods are just drying the air in the container which is pretty minimal amounts of moisture.


----------



## stupoty (Feb 13, 2016)

I keep my rods in the living room. 

The brand I use has a table on storage of their rods that states wether special storage is required or not which is handy.

I got the ones that don't require special storage as it was much cheeper to get them by the 25kg load than individual packs.

Stuart


----------



## Billh50 (Feb 13, 2016)

Brino's Idea of using pvc pipe is one I have seen many welders use. A few of the ones I know have more them 1 tube made and they label each one with the type of rod inside.


----------



## brino (Feb 13, 2016)

I am with @Deerslayer; as long as I get the SMAW rods in the sealed containers and leave them there they keep for many, many years without a light bulb or desiccant. If required I have the old, retired toaster oven in the shop that I could use to dry them, but I have not needed to yet.

also a few related things.......

Jody at Welding Tips and Tricks made a whack of storage containers for TIG rod:http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/tig-welding-rod-holders.html
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/tig-welding-rod-holders.html

If needed, you can buy desiccant like this:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=53828&cat=1,43456,53828

-brino


----------



## W6PUG (Feb 13, 2016)

Thanks a million - I keep track of Jody's stuff as much as I can - and thank you for the desiccant link!  Chemical supply houses are more expensive so this is great.
ddj


----------



## NCjeeper (Feb 16, 2016)

Correct me if I am wrong but aren't 7018"s the only rods worth worrying about? You could always get a cheap toaster oven and put the rods in there for awhile just prior to welding with them.


----------



## W6PUG (Feb 16, 2016)

you are most likely correct, because 7018 is low H ... at least, up to a point ... I keep 6011, 6013, 7014 and 7018 around for sticking most things together, and you are probably correct in implying that I am in the overkill zone ... but right now humidity is 99 percent (have a weather station here at the house); even inside the humidity is 54 percent ... so I am just interested in making what I have last as long as I can. I am not a commercial welder, so I will not go through rod fast enough to keep the turnover up to the point of not worrying about it, and in a lot of day to day, I will probably use MIG anyway, but there are always times like windy outside or whatever that rod is needed, and with my luck, the one time I need it will be when it is ruined ... so this is my ounce of prevention. Thanks though - you are right on all counts ... just another shop project thing I am interested in .... thanks for comment - doug


----------



## Deerslayer (Feb 17, 2016)

NCjeeper said:


> Correct me if I am wrong but aren't 7018"s the only rods worth worrying about? You could always get a cheap toaster oven and put the rods in there for awhile just prior to welding with them.



7018 will cover many needs and if I only got to choose one rod it may be 7018, however 7018 is not designed to be ran as many do on AC and doesn't run well on an AC only welder. If you have an AC only welder try 7018AC by Hobart, they run real nice. My second (very close second maybe first) rod choice would be 6011, they penetrate deeper and are great gap fillers, fit up for farm use just barely hold shelled corn kinda rod. Of course I learned pipe welding so we start everything with a 6011 root.  By the way 6010 and 6011 are virtually identical rode on DC however 6011 also runs well on AC. 
3/32 6011 and 7018AC will cove most needs with AC only welder otherwise 6011 and 7018

I also keep some 60-13 for extremely large gap filling and sometimes welding fast on thinner stuff in a pinch.
As well as some stainless rod that works in odd situations as well as stainless. 

Just my thoughts ymmv


----------



## W6PUG (Feb 17, 2016)

If I could figure out how to put my gear in in the "signature" of the posts I would have/should have done it by now but .... have not yet figured it out. Am running all Hobart: AC/DC Stickmate, Ironman MIG, and Hobart 165 TIG rigs so I can do AC or DC ... just depends on what I am poking at ... Also have plasma cutter, oxy/acelylene torch, and other small hobby shop stuff: old Hardinge TL lathe, Aceria F2 mill, horizontal bandsaw, chopsaw, grinders and other odds and ends. Trying to set up a shop during a move has proven to be one heck of a challenge - house comes first (according to She Who Must Be Obeyed) - and the shop gets attention whenever I can sneak in some time.
Thanks for your thoughts .... and it looks like you learned some of the same way I did ... burned a lot of that old P5 rod about as big as your bird finger on pipe in my early 20's 
Take care and thanks again!


----------



## Deerslayer (Feb 17, 2016)

W6PUG said:


> If I could figure out how to put my gear in in the "signature" of the posts I would have/should have done it by now but .... have not yet figured it out. Am running all Hobart: AC/DC Stickmate, Ironman MIG, and Hobart 165 TIG rigs so I can do AC or DC ... just depends on what I am poking at ... Also have plasma cutter, oxy/acelylene torch, and other small hobby shop stuff: old Hardinge TL lathe, Aceria F2 mill, horizontal bandsaw, chopsaw, grinders and other odds and ends. Trying to set up a shop during a move has proven to be one heck of a challenge - house comes first (according to She Who Must Be Obeyed) - and the shop gets attention whenever I can sneak in some time.
> Thanks for your thoughts .... and it looks like you learned some of the same way I did ... burned a lot of that old P5 rod about as big as your bird finger on pipe in my early 20's
> Take care and thanks again!



Well now that you mention the mig, sounds like you just need to put them rods in a airtight tube and dust them occasionally. Unless you like stick welding, my rule is anything over 1/4" that needs to be strong and I will use a stick every time. My friend that runs a weld shop tells me I'm crazy and I don't know how to properly set my mig for thick metal, he's right but I also know if I use the old stinkin Lincoln tombstone it's gonna outlast me. 

Never used p5 rod? I do have some 7018 big as your thumb takes everything my welder has on DC to run it and it wouldn't mind another 50 amps


----------



## NCjeeper (Feb 18, 2016)

Im like you Deerslayer. If its thick I like using 7018 dc stick instead of migging it.


----------



## abrace (Mar 6, 2016)

Agreed, if it is a critical weld, stick all the way. I use mostly 6011, and I don't do anything with my rods other than keep then in a plastic container. 6011 doesn't like to be overdried...flux starts cracking and falling off.

SMAW when it counts, GMAW when it has to be pretty.


----------



## W6PUG (Mar 6, 2016)

OK ... I gotta confess ... I was on eBay and  a couple of weeks ago found a rod oven for half the cost of a new one which put it in my price range, so 7018 and 7014 will go in it, however, I am going to put it on a timer and just turn it on for 1/2 hour a day just to maintain ... I don't use rod often enough so I think this should give me some extended life .... like today ... 46F and 96% humidity (I am not kidding!) ...  as long as I don't open the door on it I am thinking it should be ok for maintaining. It is not the cost of the rod that is the big deal ... it is that when you NEED to do something, you don't want to have to drop everything and run to town for rod because you found yours has turned to crap .... I am like you guys - if you need good penetration and especially if you are doing a gap or needing a big pattern, rod is the only way to go .... thanks Guys, for thinkin' of me and giving me your ideas and input. It has been over 30 years since I have done a lot of serious welding ... it comes back ... slowly, but it does come back ... you guys remind me of the things that were in my brain but lost in the 'filing cabinet'.


----------

