# Are galvanised corrugated panels safe to put on the inside walls of a work shed?



## ome (Jan 5, 2015)

Hi Guys,
I want to learn to arc weld and forge weld, and want to put some metal panels up on the walls so the sparks wont hit the wood panels of the walls of the shed. 
I know welding galv is a no no, but will the sparks burn and cause toxic gas from the galvanised surface?
thanks in advance,
ome


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## 12bolts (Jan 5, 2015)

Ome I think your panels would be fine to use in this situation. Is this corrugated gal steel? The sparks and spatter arent going to carry enough heat to burn the galvanising off

Cheers Phil


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## ome (Jan 8, 2015)

12bolts said:


> Ome I think your panels would be fine to use in this situation. Is this corrugated gal steel? The sparks and spatter arent going to carry enough heat to burn the galvanising off
> 
> Cheers Phil


Hi Phil,
My local home depots do not carry the corr galv roofing panels. 
Menards has , bug shipping is more than the product. 
My question is , will .032 aluminum sheets work on the walls up to 4 feet high and to the floor. 
Is there any type of aluminum I need to avoid. Cheapest panels are 3' by 4' and 35.00 a sheet plus shipping. 
Thanks,
jon


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## Kevinb71 (Jan 8, 2015)

When I added "welding" to my shop, my insurance company required us to install metal panels(aluminum or steel) spaced 1" off of the wall for an airspace. We also left them 1 inch off of the floor to make sure nothing could fall behind and get caught. I think that either galv steel or alum would be fine. The sparks will just hit the metal and fall down off of them. This is also what they wanted us to do behind the wood burner when we installed that.


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## rwm (Jan 8, 2015)

I used them for my foundry. 




They are fine when splashed with bronze and aluminum. I'm sure they would be fine for welding. Some minimal zinc fumes won't hurt you anyway.
The only thing I would not do is weld directly on them.
R


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## f350ca (Jan 8, 2015)

I wouldn't worry about sparks hitting the zinc but the reflection of the arc might be a problem or at least an annoyance. If your between the weld and the shinny panels the arc will be reflecting into the back side of your helmet, then off the lens surface to your eyes.
What about cement board sheets that are used behind tile. Totally fireproof and can be mounted directly to the existing wall.
I was just given 28 4x8 sheets of cement siding for a house, same as the baking board except this has a wood grain embossed on the surface. Plan to line the blacksmith shop / foundry with it as soon as the weather warms up.

Greg


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## xalky (Jan 8, 2015)

I second Greg's suggestion. Commonly called Hardiboard in these parts. It's a Whitish color , not the heavy gray concrete stuff. HD sells it in the tile section.


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## ome (Jan 8, 2015)

f350ca said:


> I wouldn't worry about sparks hitting the zinc but the reflection of the arc might be a problem or at least an annoyance. If your between the weld and the shinny panels the arc will be reflecting into the back side of your helmet, then off the lens surface to your eyes.
> What about cement board sheets that are used behind tile. Totally fireproof and can be mounted directly to the existing wall.
> I was just given 28 4x8 sheets of cement siding for a house, same as the baking board except this has a wood grain embossed on the surface. Plan to line the blacksmith shop / foundry with it as soon as the weather warms up.
> 
> Greg


Thanks Greg,
do u think the stainless steel panels I put on the wooden floor will be a problem when doing any welding?
thanks,
jon


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## JimDawson (Jan 8, 2015)

ome said:


> Thanks Greg,
> do u think the stainless steel panels I put on the wooden floor will be a problem when doing any welding?
> thanks,
> jon




I hate standing on a conducting surface when I'm welding.  If everything is dry it OK, but I still don't like it.  Having said that, I have done a lot of welding hanging from metal catwalks and metal ladders in the rain, or laying in a mud hole welding on heavy equipment in the field.

 A metal floor gets really slick if it gets a little oil on it.  I would think the cement board would be a better choice, but maybe not as durable.


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## f350ca (Jan 9, 2015)

Jon i have to agree with Jim on welding on a conductive surface. Even damp concrete will give you the odd zap, not harmful but annoying. 
One thing that comes to mind right away is having something hot fall on the floor, say something you just cut with an oxy acetalene torch. The stainless will transfer the heat to the wood beneath and possibly start a fire you can't see or detect the smoke from until its too late. I'd be more comfortable welding on the wooden floor myself. Concrete is your best bet, or even plain old dirt.

Greg


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## ome (Jan 9, 2015)

f350ca said:


> Jon i have to agree with Jim on welding on a conductive surface. Even damp concrete will give you the odd zap, not harmful but annoying.
> One thing that comes to mind right away is having something hot fall on the floor, say something you just cut with an oxy acetalene torch. The stainless will transfer the heat to the wood beneath and possibly start a fire you can't see or detect the smoke from until its too late. I'd be more comfortable welding on the wooden floor myself. Concrete is your best bet, or even plain old dirt.
> 
> Greg


Thanks everyone,
i have 2 by 4 and 3 by 5 sheets just lying on top of the double plywood floor. 
I totally understand and thank you for warning me. 
I am new to forging. Done twice in shed and dfopped on floor without the metal, and picking it up quickly was not easy with gloves and tongs. 
I plan on learning Rc welding as soon as i get the basics on forging with my propane forge. 
if the hardiboard with a wood texture( 1/8" thick) is place on the walls in the shed four feet high from the floor up, and stops placed in etween every beam to prevent anything from getting behind the hardiboard. 
Would it then be safe to learn to Arc weld on the woodenfloor below you?
i have a small portable welding table I plan on using. 
Thank you all ,
jon


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## ome (Jan 9, 2015)

Thanks for all the great advice. 
I looked at HD and found a 1/8" thick 4' by 8'
hardieboard, with a wood texture on one side. 
Is this the product which was recomended by Xalky and Greg and others?
Thanks,
jon


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## f350ca (Jan 9, 2015)

Jon, I couldn't say a wooden floor was safe to weld on, I meant sheet metal over wood could be a very dangerous combination for the reasons mentioned. As with anything we do you have to look at the environment your in, weigh the dangers and  assess and minimize the risks.
Anywhere a spark can contact a combustable material there is the potential of unwanted fire.  
I think hardieboard is a trade name, if its made of cement it should be non-combustible.
Without seeing your particular shop there's no way someone can tell if its safe.

Greg


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## xalky (Jan 9, 2015)

ome said:


> Thanks for all the great advice.
> I looked at HD and found a 1/8" thick 4' by 8'
> hardieboard, with a wood texture on one side.
> Is this the product which was recomended by Xalky and Greg and others?
> ...


 I would think that it's thicker than 1/8", Probably more like .250. The Hardie website shows the panel thickness at .312" 

http://www.jameshardie.com/   Heres' the link to the site. You can click on the products link. All the products are basically made of the same material for different applications, the mechanical/combustability properties are pretty much the same across the entire product line. Sometimes you can get the tile backer version in 4x8 sheets, but more often I've seen it in 3x5 sheets. 3x5 work fine for floors with plywood already there, but can be a pain to use on studs since the sheets won't land on the standard stud spacing.


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## JimDawson (Jan 9, 2015)

ome said:


> Thanks everyone,
> 
> Would it then be safe to learn to Arc weld on the woodenfloor below you?
> i have a small portable welding table I plan on using.
> ...




For about 20 years I had to weld over my wood deck on my houseboat.  My way around the problem was to flood the deck with water before, during, and after welding.  Then maintain a fire watch for several hours after.  Same thing welding in saw mills, normally company policy is a 6 to 8 hour fire watch after welding.  In general, I would not recommend welding over a wood floor if it can be avoided.  I was in HD the other day and noticed they has some kind of cement board in about 1/2 inch thick sheets, tile underlayment I think.  That might make a reasonable floor in your shop.  You also want to seal the edges where it meets the wall so sparks can't get in there, silicone calking works well for this.


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## ome (Jan 9, 2015)

xalky said:


> I would think that it's thicker than 1/8", Probably more like .250. The Hardie website shows the panel thickness at .312"
> 
> http://www.jameshardie.com/   Heres' the link to the site. You can click on the products link. All the products are basically made of the same material for different applications, the mechanical/combustability properties are pretty much the same across the entire product line. Sometimes you can get the tile backer version in 4x8 sheets, but more often I've seen it in 3x5 sheets. 3x5 work fine for floors with plywood already there, but can be a pain to use on studs since the sheets won't land on the standard stud spacing.


Thanks,
all I can find at homedepot is the hardie backer board for walls and floors in 1/4" and heavy 1/2" with lines for tile layout. any idea who has the textured boards?
thanks alot,
jon


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## xalky (Jan 9, 2015)

Any decent lumber yard should have it or be able to get it in. Shop around. What was the 1/8" product that you were talking about?


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## ome (Jan 9, 2015)

xalky said:


> Any decent lumber yard should have it or be able to get it in. Shop around. What was the 1/8" product that you were talking about?


That product was a mistake. 
I found a contracter supply that can order 48. For 4 by 8 and 62. For 4 by 10
sierra 6 vertical aiding panels 5/16" thick
I found the hardie backer board for tile in 3 by 5 and will use over plywood floor and take away ss panels when starting to learn to arc weld. 
I hope the hardie backer will stand up to walking and working on it. 
Is 1/4 ok for the floor over the plywood?
thanks,
jon


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## xalky (Jan 9, 2015)

I would think the 1/4" would be sufficient in the floor. You don't even need to fasten it to the floor, but you might want to screw in the 4 corners just to make sure the joints don't open up on ya. It's pretty tough stuff especially when it's backed by 3/4" plywood. There's a slim possibility of cracking one if you dropped something very heavy on it, but I've never seen it happen.


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## f350ca (Jan 9, 2015)

Jon, I would think the cement board should wear fairly well on the floor, its pretty tough, a bear to cut with an abrasive wheel in the skill saw. You mentioned you had two layers of plywood, that should support it just fine. I plan to back it with 7/16 Aspenite on my walls for impacts.
The textured material I got was free, free textured beats smooth that I'd have to pay for. When I was planing on buying it I was looking at the smooth tile backer.

Greg


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## LEEQ (Jan 9, 2015)

If you want 4x8 sheets of Hardie soffit, you need the contractors/lumber counter. These will work on 16" layout either direction. The flooring dept will have the 3x5 sheets with squares instead of pretty wood grain. They don't work on any layout. Either way you go I think this is a great idea for fire resistant lining material) Edit-- You can get nippers from the rental counter to cut it without the cloud of concrete dust. they look like a drill with three metal fingers on front. Two remain fixed and the third moves up and down between them cutting a 1/4" path through the material.


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## rwm (Jan 9, 2015)

I gotta say. Even though I used the galvanized sheets, I think cement board is a much better option for this. I wish I had used it for my foundry area but I used what I had on hand. Post some pics after you set it up.
R


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## ome (Jan 10, 2015)

LEEQ said:


> If you want 4x8 sheets of Hardie soffit, you need the contractors/lumber counter. These will work on 16" layout either direction. The flooring dept will have the 3x5 sheets with squares instead of pretty wood grain. They don't work on any layout. Either way you go I think this is a great idea for fire resistant lining material) Edit-- You can get nippers from the rental counter to cut it without the cloud of concrete dust. they look like a drill with three metal fingers on front. Two remain fixed and the third moves up and down between them cutting a 1/4" path through the material.


Thanks Lee,
That was my next question, how to cut without a mess. 
What is the name of those nippers, does HD sell them?
we tried to burn a hardie backer board with a propane torch, and could not get it to catch fire, good stuff, thanks to everyone who helped me make the best decision. 
Thanks,
Jon


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## xalky (Jan 10, 2015)

You can score it with a utility knife and snap it. But that only works for straight cuts. You can use a carbide circular saw blade to cut it too. The blade won't be good for much after you're done with the job, but it's much faster, the saw won't labor as hard, and a little less dusty than an abrasive blade. Still dusty though.


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## ome (Jan 10, 2015)

xalky said:


> You can score it with a utility knife and snap it. But that only works for straight cuts. You can use a carbide circular saw blade to cut it too. The blade won't be good for much after you're done with the job, but it's much faster, the saw won't labor as hard, and a little less dusty than an abrasive blade. Still dusty though.


Thanks,
the nippers that lee mentioned they rent at home depit sound good for the 5/16" thick panels, do you know what they are called or where to buy them. 
I assume a respirator with p-100 filter and goggles would be needed for any power cutting. 
Thanks,
jon


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## brav65 (Jan 10, 2015)

ome said:


> Thanks Lee,
> That was my next question, how to cut without a mess.
> What is the name of those nippers, does HD sell them?
> we tried to burn a hardie backer board with a propane torch, and could not get it to catch fire, good stuff, thanks to everyone who helped me make the best decision.
> ...



Jon,

The cement board can be scored and snapped like drywall. I have an old pointed carbide cutter I got somewhere that I run along a straight edge a couple of times then snap along the cut. It works great for straight cuts. The nippers work well if you have a lot of cutting to do. The joints can be sealed with thinset. I would screw the material down 24" on center as leaving it to float may allow the panels to flex and break.


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## JimDawson (Jan 10, 2015)

ome said:


> Thanks,
> the nippers that lee mentioned they rent at home depit sound good for the 5/16" thick panels, do you know what they are called or where to buy them.
> I assume a respirator with p-100 filter and goggles would be needed for any power cutting.
> Thanks,
> jon




http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-6-5-Amp-Fiber-Cement-Shear-Kit-JS8000/202265676

HD also has them for rent I think


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## ome (Jan 10, 2015)

brav65 said:


> Jon,
> 
> The cement board can be scored and snapped like drywall. I have an old pointed carbide cutter I got somewhere that I run along a straight edge a couple of times then snap along the cut. It works great for straight cuts. The nippers work well if you have a lot of cutting to do. The joints can be sealed with thinset. I would screw the material down 24" on center as leaving it to float may allow the panels to flex and break.


Thanks,
do u mean a carbide scriber that looks like a pen?
I need to make cuts around each of the windows, so not all will be straight cuts. 
Is it necessary to seal the joints with thinset?
how many screws in a 4 by 8 panel to keep it from flexing. 
I plan on laying them down the long way , so the height of the panels will be from the floor up to 4', which is higher than any of the anvils by over a foot. 
I think this should be fine for forging, But I do not know if it is high enough for forge welding and arc welding or any other type of welding I may want to learn. 
The price of the panels is not cheAp so i could only afford to do the sinle panel height of 4'. 
what is your advice, everyone?
thanks to all who are helping me 
Jon


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## rwm (Jan 10, 2015)

I would go higher than 4 ft. Probably should do 8. You don't want a spark falling in the slot between the board and the wall.
R


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## ome (Jan 11, 2015)

rwm said:


> I would go higher than 4 ft. Probably should do 8. You don't want a spark falling in the slot between the board and the wall.
> R


Thanks ,
I was planning to cover the spaces between the panel and the beams, with 2 by 4's and flashing that hans over the top edges of the panel. 
Do you think that would be adequate to prevent sparks from welding , getting behind the panel or inbetween the beams where it would be open , if not sealed up as i just described. Also , if hardy resource guide says no closer than 3/8  -  3/4" from board edge, how to fasten 2 boards at seam on 1 2 by 4?
Thanks in advance for any and all help,
Jon


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## rgray (Jan 12, 2015)

Cement board for the floor...But sheetrock/gypsum board is cheap and it's main reason for existence is fireproofing. So I would go with that on the walls.


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## ome (Jan 12, 2015)

LEEQ said:


> If you want 4x8 sheets of Hardie soffit, you need the contractors/lumber counter. These will work on 16" layout either direction. The flooring dept will have the 3x5 sheets with squares instead of pretty wood grain. They don't work on any layout. Either way you go I think this is a great idea for fire resistant lining material) Edit-- You can get nippers from the rental counter to cut it without the cloud of concrete dust. they look like a drill with three metal fingers on front. Two remain fixed and the third moves up and down between them cutting a 1/4" path through the material.


Hi Lee,
I wanted to use screws , corrosive resistant , hot dipped galv or ss to fasten the hardy board sierra 8 panels directly to the studs in the shed. 
But, I read that only the 1/2" panels can be screwed in this manner, the 1/4" panels tend to fall from their own weight(70-75lbs for a 4 by 8 panel). 
I can only afford the 1/4" plus the 1/2" is too heavy to work. 
Any advice , is fireproof sheetrock as good as hardie board panels for interior walls?
could I use the 3 by 5 panels (hardie backer board for tile layout, for the walls. 
Only 28.5 lb per 3 by 5 panel. 
Thanks,
Jon


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## LEEQ (Jan 12, 2015)

ome said:


> Hi Lee,
> I wanted to use screws , corrosive resistant , hot dipped galv or ss to fasten the hardy board sierra 8 panels directly to the studs in the shed.
> But, I read that only the 1/2" panels can be screwed in this manner, the 1/4" panels tend to fall from their own weight(70-75lbs for a 4 by 8 panel).
> I can only afford the 1/4" plus the 1/2" is too heavy to work.
> ...



Firerock is still sheetrock with paper facing. It is used to face two walls facing each other with a small space between to split apartment buildings and such into sections and slow fire from spreading. My opinion is concrete board is better. 5/8" Fire rock would be cheaper though.  You could put the 1/4" concrete up with a vey few screws (pan head, not countersunk) if you glue the studs with construction adhesive. once the glue is set the screws don't do much and could in theory be removed. If you aren't trying to countersink the screws you could pre drill the holes and just about eliminate the crumbling of the edges. I would avoid 3x5 as it would waste your material time and money cutting it to fit 16" centers. Were it me I would lay some pole barn metal the wrong way (horizontal), screw it off, and go with it. But I collect it and coil stock off jobs and own a brake table. I would have skinned the walls and made my own trim for the price of labor and effort of dragging the steel in and out of my truck (which is on the job anyway). Yes, I'm sure if a HOT piece of molten metal was trapped against the paint it would melt it, but better than burning zinc by far.  As a side note, should you need a bomb shelter, your shed may suffice. At least the floors and walls.)


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## ome (Jan 12, 2015)

So, does anyone know if The primed hardie board panels used on interior walls of shed need to be painted. 
I would prefer to just leave them primed and unpainted. 
Thanks,
jon


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## LEEQ (Jan 13, 2015)

Your choice, I would prefer no painting myself, I hate to paint. Besides, paint is melty. I would shoot for unprimed. Not a bad color with nothing to melt and should be cheaper. I have put up pre painted siding, but the soffit sheets have all been bare. Not saying it isn't out there, but I haven't hung any yet. Good luck.


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## f350ca (Jan 13, 2015)

I really hate painting but in this case I think its a necessary evil. The primed surface on the sheets is rough to accept paint, so its going to accept dirt equally well. With the dust your / Im going to get from welding and grinding and in my case a coal forge they will be black in no time. Hopefully a coat of gloss paint will allow the walls to be brushed off from time to time.
Out of curiosity what type of fasteners are recommended when this is used as siding. I'm putting it up inside the same as Jon, so corrosion and in my case ascetics aren't important so I just used drywall screws..

Greg


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## ome (Jan 13, 2015)

f350ca said:


> I really hate painting but in this case I think its a necessary evil. The primed surface on the sheets is rough to accept paint, so its going to accept dirt equally well. With the dust your / Im going to get from welding and grinding and in my case a coal forge they will be black in no time. Hopefully a coat of gloss paint will allow the walls to be brushed off from time to time.
> Out of curiosity what type of fasteners are recommended when this is used as siding. I'm putting it up inside the same as Jon, so corrosion and in my case ascetics aren't important so I just used drywall screws..
> 
> Greg


Hi Greg, 
galv hot dipped or ss #8 by .350 head dianeter ,self drilling , ribbed, wafer head screw. 
Jon


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## LEEQ (Jan 13, 2015)

The screws that lay on top when tight don't break corners and edges of the 1/4" board as easily as countersunk  screws. I suppose if you weren't trying to pull the screws down flush with the surface that might help too. I think galvy truss head screws would be great for this. Stainless if you like. They have a nice large pan head with a low profile.


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## ome (Jan 14, 2015)

After 3 days of looking, finally found 4 by 8 sheets in 1/4" of hardy backer board about 50 min drive. 
They want 33. A sheet, and the 1/2"(.42) is 25. A sheet. Just cause no one else around gets it. 
Oh well, the savings is not worth the extra weight of each panel
jon


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