# rust



## Kernbigo (Nov 22, 2013)

The 9" south bend i just purchased came with a nice 5" buck chuck, it has a lot of surface rust what works best for removing this kind of rust?


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## swoop_g (Nov 22, 2013)

I am working on my fathers old south bend lathe and it too has a good bit of surface rust in certain places.  I use some brass wire wheels that fit on a cordless drill to take off some of the tougher rust but mainly I use a scotch brite pad and some real light oil so I don't take off any actual metal.  I don't use the wheel an any surface that needs to be flat and true, mainly I use the wheel on the handles and on my 3 jaw chuck on it's outer surface.  My ways were always oiled really well so there was no rust on them to speak of, most of the rust were on the hand wheels or the chuck.  When I do use the wire wheel I do not put any added pressure to the part, just kind of let the weight of the drill do the work, also turning the wire wheel so the sides of the bristles are rubbing on the part and not the ends of the bristles helps to polish the metal without leaving a bunch of scratches.  Be sure to coat the new shiny metal with oil or it will rust quite quickly.


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## ScrapMetal (Nov 22, 2013)

My "go to" method would be to pick up a gallon of Evapo-Rust , disassemble the chuck and toss the parts in to a bowl (I'm notorious for using the wife's mixing bowls :biggrin of it for a few hours.  Rinse it off in the sink, dry and oil the parts, and reassemble.

-Ron


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## rhost (Nov 23, 2013)

CLR seems to work as well


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## Kroll (Nov 23, 2013)

With Harbor Freights 20% coupon that drops the Evapo-rust down to 20.00---kroll


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## docn8as (Nov 23, 2013)

cast  iron  has a  harder  surface than mild  steel ......i  use  mild  steel flats  of  various  sizes  ground  SQUARE  on the  end , some  w/ a  radius  to scrape  the  rust w/out  damage  ..., fine stel wire  wheels  on non precision surfaces 
    best  wishes
doc


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## Kernbigo (Nov 24, 2013)

I had some clr so i used that to clean the buck chuck,was not impressed with that product, used it with a scotch brite. It worked butt allot of effort.


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## swoop_g (Nov 24, 2013)

I have tried to use CLR in the past and was not impressed too much either.  It works great on calcium buildup in the bath/shower but didn't work as well on rust from iron.  I am ordering some Evapo-rust to give it a try, it looks like a good product.  The only method I know to work 100% of the time is wire wheels/brushes and elbow grease.  It is my least favorite thing to do but it will work!  I will post some pics of my project in the next few days.

Greg


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## Vince_O (Nov 25, 2013)

Ron Im right up there with you. I had to heat up some 7018's the other day and grabbed Kathys favorite cokkie sheet and stuck them in the oven. She was not happy!


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## toag (Nov 25, 2013)

hahaha.

I hada part to press fit a bearing in, was a little too snug.   So i brought it into the house put in on a cookie sheet, and set the oven to 250.  Wife looks at me and says, "that better taste good when it come out".  So i need an oven in the shop now... would be great for snacks too.

as for rust, the electrolysis method works wonders.  big tub, add some baking soda, a sacrificial piece of steel, and a battery charger.  24 hours later you will be amazed, and i am not kidding.  for cheap and lazy folks like myself, you cant beat it.  may take a few baths for all the different parts (you must have coninuity though all the seperate parts or they won't get cleaned, but it is awesome.  after it is out, some fine steel wool, wd-40 and done.


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## ScrapMetal (Nov 25, 2013)

Guys, don't even get me started.  There was the time I was heating up cylinder heads off a Harley shovelhead engine in the oven to press in new valve guides.  I also "got caught" using her dishwasher to clean shaper/engine parts. Etc. Etc.  I think the most "unhappy moment" was when she found that I was using the washer/dryer to clean all the oil, greasy hand rags I use in the shop and garage.  She must love me 'cause I'm not dead yet. :biggrin:

Back to the thread - I really like the idea of the electrolysis and will set up a system in the spring for some of my bigger stuff but when you have smaller things (mixing bowl size  or even up to a couple of gallons size) the ease of the evap-o-rust is really hard to beat.  The stuff is absolutely non-toxic, non-corrosive, pretty much completely benign.  It is re-usable to a point.  Cleanup is done with water and it can be safely poured down the kitchen sink (I had to show the wife the MSDS on that one.)  Yeah, it's initial cost is not on the cheap side but it makes up for that in ease of use.

swoop_g - do some before and after shots of the piece(s) I think you'll be real happy with the results.

-Ron


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## pjf134 (Nov 25, 2013)

Washing soda not baking soda, unless you put the baking soda in the oven to turn it into washing soda. I did my gear box for the SB9A using washing soda and it took off paint and rust using the battery charger trick. I also put purple power end rust on the parts after the soak and before painting and has been on for almost 3 years and no sign of rust on those parts. See pic for what came off gear box and it was not done yet.
Paul


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## Halfnuts (Nov 26, 2013)

You might be over thinking this.  Hardened steel accumulates only a thin film of rust.   Consider simply soaking it for an hour in drain cleaner (lye).  

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/19278-Cleaning-Rusty-Old-Collets


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## rangerman (Dec 5, 2013)

I've used CLR and Evapo-Rust in the past and I'm equally impressed by them, but CLR cost a lot less.
Some people who say they don't work probably didn't spend enough soak time for the chemical to work.
A day of soak time is a minimum for me even for slight surface rust on steel.

Note that there are several brands of CLR products in the market. I like using the one in the green plastic container. (I think it's Lime-a-Way brand)


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