# Logan 6560LH  Restoration



## John1957

Good morning America
I am currently disassembling my new ally acquired logan 6560lh . Have back gear assembly,gear box, apron, removed, some things in apron don't look rite, worm gear severely worn and was difficult to remove.their was no key for shaft .shaft key aprox 3/16 but worm gear slot only 1/8".
not sure how clutch assembly functions, and how to identify how much wear is acceptable.
this is my first lathe rebuild .     Any one out there familiar with this machine.

                                                                            John1957


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## Mister Ed

Not familiar with it, but always have thought I wanted one. Your looks pretty nice ... albeit upside down.


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## Chuck K

Yep, I recognized the problem right off.....all your parts are in upside down.)


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## John1957

Mister Ed said:


> Not familiar with it, but always have thought I wanted one. Your looks pretty nice ... albeit upside down.



Yeah try working that way . Haven't figured out why they down load that way or how to correct it


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## John1957

Mister Ed said:


> Not familiar with it, but always have thought I wanted one. Your looks pretty nice ... albeit upside down.



Haven't figured out why it's happened, newby you know. I'm pretty happy to get ,be happier when it's opperational. Looking for specs on apron ,worm especially think wrong one installed


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## Redlineman

Welcome;

Get yourself a parts manual from Logan for starters;  http://www.lathe.com/

I think the owners manual tells how to mount them... right side up. Har.


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## drs23

See if this helps.


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## Bartonius

I have a 6561H which is basically the same thing.  Yours appears to have the collet closer.  Looking on the front of the Apron the Clutch Lever has 2 nuts on its shaft, the outer most nut is a jam nut, the inner nut adjusts the clutch pressure.  Once you have it up and running you can adjust the clutch, but you need to engage the feed to see if you have done it right.  I think the clutch would need to be extremely worn for you not to be able to adjust it to work.   I'm not sure exactly what worm gear you are talking about, is it the worm on the cross feed screw for the power crossfeed or the main feed worm?  Once I understand exactly what you need help with I'll be glad to help.


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## John1957

*Re: Logan 6560LH  Restoration.*



drs23 said:


> See if this helps.


Thanks for riting photos, how? The worm on power cross feed ,have manual comming


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## John1957

Bartonius said:


> I have a 6561H which is basically the same thing.  Yours appears to have the collet closer.  Looking on the front of the Apron the Clutch Lever has 2 nuts on its shaft, the outer most nut is a jam nut, the inner nut adjusts the clutch pressure.  Once you have it up and running you can adjust the clutch, but you need to engage the feed to see if you have done it right.  I think the clutch would need to be extremely worn for you not to be able to adjust it to work.   I'm not sure exactly what worm gear you are talking about, is it the worm on the cross feed screw for the power crossfeed or the main feed worm?  Once I understand exactly what you need help with I'll be glad to help.



The part in question is worm on cross feed screw for power cross feed .it was difficult to remove from housing after bearing removed had to turn thread out. Key way is half the width as cross feed screw.their also seemed to be some kind of spacers that are not shown in parts catalog, along with a lot of metal frags. Is their any other sources for parts other logan act. Awful pricey


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## AR1911

John, the first step after buying a Logan lathe is to go to logan actuators website and order a manual from Scott Logan for about $25. He can tell you when it was first sold and where it shipped to. 
Scott also runs a Yahoo group named "lathe" dedicated to Logan lathes. Lots of good info there too.


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## RandyM

Hi John,

I straightened up your first posts a little if you don't mind. Looks like you are getting some good starting advice. I have a 6561H and will use you project as a reference once I get started in tearing mine down. Keep the info and questions coming.


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## Chuck K

John,  If I'm reading this correctly I think your talking about the worm gear that the lead/feed screw turns.  The screw has a keyway running almost the entire length which the key in the worm gear runs in.  That worm gear powers the longitudinal feeds as well as cross feeds.  The cross feed doesn't actually have a worm gear to drive it, (unless it's different than the smaller logan models), it's driven by the big gear sticking out the top of your apron. I get the impression that the key in the worm gear is worn as well as the bushings it sits between.  I don't think there are spacers between the gear and the bushings.  You just have a lot of wear.  I have made bronze spacers to tighten that up.  You will probably have to make a special key to fit the worm gear.  I would imagine those parts are very pricey if you have to replace them.  I don't know where you would get that worm gear other than Logan. The bushings you could make.  Good luck.

Chuck


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## Redlineman

Hey;

There is always ebay for used parts, but I don't think they will be nearly as plentiful for this newer lathe as they are for the older ones. Yes, the prices from Logan seem pretty steep, but that is likely based solely on how much time they take to make. The fact that someone has gone to the trouble to make them available at all is pretty amazing, really. If you are just learning about lathes, there is a guy on You Tube called Tubalcain who was just recently making a new shoulder gear for his quick change gear box. He could not find on on ebay, and commented that a new one from Logan was "$200!" He found something to match the gear, and with a shoulder, but with different ID/OD. By the time he was done turning and making reducer bushings, he said the price from Logan looked about right, and he'd never make one again!

Try to explain your issues as clearly as possible, and take lot of pics. That will help those here with such knowledge to help you through!


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## John1957

AR1911 said:


> John, the first step after buying a Logan lathe is to go to logan actuators website and order a manual from Scott Logan for about $25. He can tell you when it was first sold and where it shipped to.
> Scott also runs a Yahoo group named "lathe" dedicated to Logan lathes. Lots of good info there too.


Thank you already ordered manual should arrive tomorrow,unfortunately my lathe bed does not have serial no. Engraved on bed . Bed May been reground at some point. Do have casting date and no. Their appears to be some variation in apron disernable by serial no. I have measured all existing parts once manual arrives I'll contact logan to clarify .i have manual online some schematics do not match what is existing.some one has already done some replacement/repair,manual does give dimn. Specs for parts in question.

- - - Updated - - -



RandyM said:


> Hi John,
> 
> I straightened up your first posts a little if you don't mind. Looks like you are getting some good starting advice. I have a 6561H and will use you project as a reference once I get started in tearing mine down. Keep the info and questions coming.



Thanks Randy there is a logan rebuild on this site I found when looking up logan ,it was logan 12"found it very informative ,unfortunately for me found after most of my disassembly was done,I guess I'm saying his was obviously easier and correct ,well that's part of learning curve or crash


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## John1957

Redlineman said:


> Hey;
> 
> There is always ebay for used parts, but I don't think they will be nearly as plentiful for this newer lathe as they are for the older ones. Yes, the prices from Logan seem pretty steep, but that is likely based solely on how much time they take to make. The fact that someone has gone to the trouble to make them available at all is pretty amazing, really. If you are just learning about lathes, there is a guy on You Tube called Tubalcain who was just recently making a new shoulder gear for his quick change gear box. He could not find on on ebay, and commented that a new one from Logan was "$200!" He found something to match the gear, and with a shoulder, but with different ID/OD. By the time he was done turning and making reducer bushings, he said the price from Logan looked about right, and he'd never make one again!
> 
> Try to explain your issues as clearly as possible, and take lot of pics. That will help those here with such knowledge to help you through!


 thanks for input I will be posting more pictures soon,logan prices are worthy ,I'm just fiscally prudent you know cheap,I bought the lathe at good price , there always a trade off , will be contacting logan for clarification ,intend to do this as correct as possible ,    Thanks again for the responses, actually motivating to have others interested,never been on a forum  before wasn't sure what to exspect. Thanks again


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## John1957

John1957 said:


> Good morning America
> I am currently disassembling my new ally acquired logan 6560lh . Have back gear assembly,gear box, apron, removed, some things in apron don't look rite, worm gear severely worn and was difficult to remove.their was no key for shaft .shaft key aprox 3/16 but worm gear slot only 1/8".
> not sure how clutch assembly functions, and how to identify how much wear is acceptable.
> this is my first lathe rebuild .     Any one out there familiar with this machine.
> 
> John1957


.  Good morning America. Well I just got off the phone with Scott from logan,confirmed my suspicion wrong worm installed by previous owner, replacement parts for worm , worm gear,set of new bushing just shy of 1000.00 ,only paid 1025.00 for the lathe.
going down to local machine shop see what they will charge.luckily found source for back and revers gears,bushings that are a 1/3 of logan, some good news.and they are new old stock not used.


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## Chuck K

I guess the insurance company would tell you that your machine is totaled....but as long as you have patience you can make the lathe whole again.  Is there any chance of making the worm gear you already have work?  If it's just a matter of making some spacers to center it on the other gear (I'm having a problem picturing just how it sets in there...I'm thinking it engages the bottom of the other gear) that wouldn't be a big deal.  It would be a lot more economical than having one cut at a machine shop.  Keep us posted on your progress.

Chuck


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## John1957

Chuck K said:


> I guess the insurance company would tell you that your machine is totaled....but as long as you have patience you can make the lathe whole again.  Is there any chance of making the worm gear you already have work?  If it's just a matter of making some spacers to center it on the other gear (I'm having a problem picturing just how it sets in there...I'm thinking it engages the bottom of the other gear) that wouldn't be a big deal.  It would be a lot more economical than having one cut at a machine shop.  Keep us posted on your progress.
> 
> Chuck


 hey Chuck the sitttiaaaion is worm does not have key machined into it,it has a key way,the key way size doesn't even match key way size in power feed screw, and the treads beyond use.threads on worm gear are also to severely worn,I believe what occurred is they used a mismatched assembly that allowed key to wear and stress ,over load worm gear to worm to cause excessive wear,there was excessive metal frags in assembly, the positive is back gear,reverse gears,and gearbox gears are in good condition. It is what it is .going to exhaust couple other options, may just have to bite the bullet. Considered putting apron back on operate lathe utilizing 1/2 nut to machine parts needed, I just don't have the expertise to machine inside of the worm with the key.a simple inside diameter is one the but with a key incorporated into it is beyond my capability.  All else fails bigger hammer
                                                             John


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## John1957

John1957 said:


> hey Chuck the sitttiaaaion is worm does not have key machined into it,it has a key way,the key way size doesn't even match key way size in power feed screw, and the treads beyond use.threads on worm gear are also to severely worn,I believe what occurred is they used a mismatched assembly that allowed key to wear and stress ,over load worm gear to worm to cause excessive wear,there was excessive metal frags in assembly, the positive is back gear,reverse gears,and gearbox gears are in good condition. It is what it is .going to exhaust couple other options, may just have to bite the bullet. Considered putting apron back on operate lathe utilizing 1/2 nut to machine parts needed, I just don't have the expertise to machine inside of the worm with the key.a simple inside diameter is one the but with a key incorporated into it is beyond my capability.  All else fails bigger hammer
> John


Photo of worm gear and worm


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## Chuck K

If the problem was just the mismatched key....you could easily remedy that by milling one side of the key to fit in the gear keyway.  If your gears are trashed, that's a whole different situation.  I'm sure there are guys on this forum that could make those parts...I'm not one of them.  I have toyed around with making gears but in all honesty I haven't been real pleased with the finished product.  The worm gear might actually be the easy part.  You would need to broach the slot through it to mount the drive key.  The other gear would be a problem for me.  You might get lucky and find a job shop that isn't real busy and can do it for a decent price.  It's still not going to be cheap.  You might want to post under Machine Accessories and ask if someone knows of a used machine parts dealer.  I remember seeing different posts in the past where people suggested some places to find used lathe parts.  The only place that comes to mind for me is Lost Creek Machine.  I know they sometimes part out machines.  You can find them if you do a google search.  Good Luck.

Chuck


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## John1957

Chuck K said:


> If the problem was just the mismatched key....you could easily remedy that by milling one side of the key to fit in the gear keyway.  If your gears are trashed, that's a whole different situation.  I'm sure there are guys on this forum that could make those parts...I'm not one of them.  I have toyed around with making gears but in all honesty I haven't been real pleased with the finished product.  The worm gear might actually be the easy part.  You would need to broach the slot through it to mount the drive key.  The other gear would be a problem for me.  You might get lucky and find a job shop that isn't real busy and can do it for a decent price.  It's still not going to be cheap.  You might want to post under Machine Accessories and ask if someone knows of a used machine parts dealer.  I remember seeing different posts in the past where people suggested some places to find used lathe parts.  The only place that comes to mind for me is Lost Creek Machine.  I know they sometimes part out machines.  You can find them if you do a google search.  Good Luck.
> 
> Chuck


.      The key is machined as part of worm ,it ingages into slot in power feed screw. On another forum a guy actually machined his own broached a slot for a key with a pressed fit ,several others same thing and they tig welded end of key to keep in place. Meeting local machine tomorrow see what they can do.                        Thanks.    John


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## John1957

John1957 said:


> .      The key is machined as part of worm ,it ingages into slot in power feed screw. On another forum a guy actually machined his own broached a slot for a key with a pressed fit ,several others same thing and they tig welded end of key to keep in place. Meeting local machine tomorrow see what they can do.                        Thanks.    John


Good morning America.     Went down to local machine shop after inspecting worm and worm gear recommended broaching existing worm and machining a key for compressed fit .  His opinion the gear and worm would last my life time if oiled properly due to the fact of actual use for home use,not a machine shop opperation. He will broach the worm and fabricate key and assemble for 90.00. Prior to assembly I'm going to measure and create schematic to reproduce new parts, and maybe develop skill level to fabricate my owne also gives ability to possibly find new old stock.
at this point continue cleaning and dissasembly of gear box,bushings seem to have excessive wear.
a friend is going to lend me his 6" atlas,this will give ability to machine small parts such as bushing/ bearings.          Moving forward.  John


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## Chuck K

Sounds like a good plan.


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## John1957

Good morning America hope all you in the cold country are doing well. Just warmed up here ,will be back on lathe tomorrow, waiting on parts,still have to disassemble gear box,does anyone know the maching specs for apron worm ,starts,pitch, angle, mine was not correct worm .
                                                                                               John


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## John1957

John1957 said:


> Good morning America hope all you in the cold country are doing well. Just warmed up here ,will be back on lathe tomorrow, waiting on parts,still have to disassemble gear box,does anyone know the maching specs for apron worm ,starts,pitch, angle, mine was not correct worm .
> John



Well today did some more dissasembly and cleaning , once I cleaned up the half nut they to are severely worn,packed with chips , considering retapping ,shaft is 1 1/8 - 8 thread per inch acme thread, has any body done this before and is acme thread correct. Appreciate any direction you guys could give me. John


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## Chuck K

I don't know about the diameter of your leadscrew but it's an acme thread.  I made a set of half nuts for a 10" Logan I had.  I made them out of a piece of mystery metal I had because I thought my first attempt probably would end in failure and then I would get some cast to make the final set.  As it tuned out it's not real hard to make them.  Bore and thread a block and the cut it in half.  That's over simplified, you have to do some milling, but that's the easy part.  I don't know how well it would work recutting the original threads.  I have seen where others have made threaded inserts epoxied and pinned in the original half nuts.  You have nothing to lose trying to fix the ones you have.  If they don't work out you can just make new ones.  Here's a link to the ones I made with the worn originals beside them:

http://s1191.photobucket.com/user/cozmo135/media/Logan 820 Half-nuts/half-nuts.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

Chuck


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## John1957

Chuck K said:


> I don't know about the diameter of your leadscrew but it's an acme thread.  I made a set of half nuts for a 10" Logan I had.  I made them out of a piece of mystery metal I had because I thought my first attempt probably would end in failure and then I would get some cast to make the final set.  As it tuned out it's not real hard to make them.  Bore and thread a block and the cut it in half.  That's over simplified, you have to do some milling, but that's the easy part.  I don't know how well it would work recutting the original threads.  I have seen where others have made threaded inserts epoxied and pinned in the original half nuts.  You have nothing to lose trying to fix the ones you have.  If they don't work out you can just make new ones.  Here's a link to the ones I made with the worn originals beside them:
> 
> http://s1191.photobucket.com/user/cozmo135/media/Logan 820 Half-nuts/half-nuts.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
> 
> Chuck


. Thanks Chuck, idea for rethreading I read on a post some where, it was some time back,found supplier for tap,also read there is acme thread nuts availible in different lengths have not found ,appreciate the help. John


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## Mister Ed

Chuck, those half nuts look really nice!! 


John, I had a link someplace (can't find it now) about forming nuts out of heated acetyl. It was more for small mills etc (but I do know they make acme nuts from acetyl for certain applications) ... so not sure how it would work for a half nut.

Keep in mind, if I remember correctly, Acme taps have a coarse and finish tap. I had looked at this for crossfeed & compound screws ... but the price x2 turned me away.


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## John1957

Mister Ed said:


> Chuck, those half nuts look really nice!!
> 
> 
> John, I had a link someplace (can't find it now) about forming nuts out of heated acetyl. It was more for small mills etc (but I do know they make acme nuts from acetyl for certain applications) ... so not sure how it would work for a half nut.
> 
> Keep in mind, if I remember correctly, Acme taps have a coarse and finish tap. I had looked at this for crossfeed & compound screws ... but the price x2 turned me away.



Chuck ,looked in to taps spoke with a machinist he believes I can use finish tap since thread are cut and I'm re cutting existing threads,still trying to verify correct worm specs ,logan not helpfull.
also still searching other sources but not having correct worm to go off ,I'm due a bit of guessing.
on the worm gear had a suggestion of maching down existing gear ,removing teeth and material to accept a ring gear made from a stock spherical worm gear,what do think, merry Christmas to you
                    John


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## Chuck K

John, Scott Logan is pretty helpful supplying info and parts for his lathes.  You can't really expect him to give you specs for a part that he sells.  I don't have a Logan right now so I can't help you there.  Maybe one of the other members that has that model lathe might be able to help you out. You should be able to use a finish tap with the existing threads in the half nuts.  I would think if you cut the threads deeper (obviously if the threads are worn they will have to be cut deeper) you will have to make them close tighter.  I'm trying to remember if you can adjust the lever so you can pull them in tighter....seems like it would just be a matter of locking the lever down in a different position on the shaft. Sounds like it's doable.

Chuck


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## John1957

Chuck K said:


> John, Scott Logan is pretty helpful supplying info and parts for his lathes.  You can't really expect him to give you specs for a part that he sells.  I don't have a Logan right now so I can't help you there.  Maybe one of the other members that has that model lathe might be able to help you out. You should be able to use a finish tap with the existing threads in the half nuts.  I would think if you cut the threads deeper (obviously if the threads are worn they will have to be cut deeper) you will have to make them close tighter.  I'm trying to remember if you can adjust the lever so you can pull them in tighter....seems like it would just be a matter of locking the lever down in a different position on the shaft. Sounds like it's doable.
> 
> Chuck


 thanks for replying ,understand logan position ,still trying to obtain specs for worm, specs availible for other models but no one can seems worm specs for 14" I'm going to install the worm I have check threads per inch if it is accurate from their I believe I can work out machine specs to replicate worm, I also was given an atlas 10" lathe from wife of a good friend of mine that past away several years back,Carl acquired the lathe from his brother who to was  a good friend that past away from a tragic accident ,his wife said passing it on to me would be like keeping it in the family. Lathe is in good shape ,needs cleaning,comes with lot of tooling and mics,also about 50 files.
                                                     John


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## John1957

I'm Baaaaack can't believe how long it's bein. I'm getting prepared to start back on lathe and complete restoration.
     I have come to conclusion to purchase parts from Logan ,although $ will end up being more than the cost of the lathe several machine shop said the price of the parts are far less than there charge to replicate,by a 1/3. Reality check time to get it done ,move forward get some use out of lathe . Ordered and received VFD for electric conversion to 3phase .
 Again thank all you guys for your support ,looking forward to sharing my progress.


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