# Atlas MF and MFC owners: please help, look at picture.



## Dgleavitt (Oct 18, 2017)

I just received a rear gear cover for the MFC mill, problem(or is it) is that I have a MF(A) older version, which calls for a different part number. I went to install it and all the bolt holes line up but there is this locating pin. The co er has the pin hole and it seems to slide on but the back cover hits a casting “bump” before it fully seats. Is this normal? Please see picture.


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## Dgleavitt (Oct 18, 2017)

Any pictures of Your mills might help too.
Thank you


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## CluelessNewB (Oct 18, 2017)

I have some pictures of the cover from an MF that I sold a few years ago, i'm not sure if they will help.


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## CluelessNewB (Oct 18, 2017)

This is the only picture I could find of my current MFC showing the cover.   Note the screws holding the  MF-29A cover rather than the hinge and spring clip of the older design on the MF.   (The thumb screws are not original.)


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## Dgleavitt (Oct 18, 2017)

I like those thumbs screws, makes it look classy. I guess I am looking for a picture of the interface between the rear cover and the “bump”


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## CluelessNewB (Oct 18, 2017)

Ok these pictures may help the first is a picture of the "inner guard" from my MFC and the second is the part from the MF.   Note there is no "bump" on the later one.  I believe they both have the same part number MF-152.


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## Dgleavitt (Oct 18, 2017)

Ok. I’m wondering if the bumps pits purpose was to stop the swinging side cover so it doesn’t contact the table feed gears. Since the MFC doesn’t have the swinging cover, it’s bolted. It probably wouldn’t hurt to “remove” the interference either relieve the cover or the bump, or both.


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## Dgleavitt (Oct 18, 2017)

Thanks for those pictures, they do help!


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## CluelessNewB (Oct 18, 2017)

Sounds like a plan!


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## 34_40 (Oct 18, 2017)

In your first picture, there are 2 large holes  (1/2" or 3/4" maybe) and I don't remember seeing that before,  I'm pretty sure mine doesn't have those?
And mine is a MF, the cover looks like the one you sold.  What does all that mean? I haven't a clue... just an observation.


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## Dgleavitt (Oct 18, 2017)

I think the only difference in covers from MF to MFC is the side gear cover. The MF’s cover was hinged and had a pull knob and it was secured by a spring clip(?). The MFC, probably because it was cheaper, has a bolt on side gear cover. Not as fancy looking.


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## wa5cab (Oct 18, 2017)

Well, we now know at least one difference between the Base and A model rear cover (the removable versus hinged gear cover).  

It appears that you have three choices:

Return the "A" cover.
Grind the corner of the "A" cover to fit.
Spot face around the dowel pin to fit.

If returning it isn't an option, I think that I would do #2.  And may one of these days.  I also have an MFA (but still in the crate) and a parts MFC that has the rear cover.


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## francist (Oct 18, 2017)

I believe another difference may be the presence of the Gits oiler through the back of the cover to oil the gears. Mine (serial number 000976) does not have a hole for the oiler but it shows up in later parts diagrams.

Back to the bumps, mine has one bump only with evidence of the second one having been ground flat. Oddly, it appears  to have factory original paint over the ground off spot. Go figger.

-frank


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## Dgleavitt (Oct 18, 2017)

I think I’ll modify the cover. I’ll keep a look out for the non-A cover but until then I’ll run it with mismatched parts, that is, if the changeomatic gears line up correctly. I should be getting those by weeks end.


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## Rob (Oct 19, 2017)

Here is a pic of my MFB.


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## wa5cab (Oct 19, 2017)

D,

If you haven't already modified the cover by grinding, don't.  I've figured out what happened and have corrected MMB-5.  Anyone who has downloaded that one should download today's Rev7 to replace your previous version.  D, if you are going to stick with the later cover (which if you got the removable cover with it, you may as well), you need to mill or grind off one or both of the offending tabs.  And if convenient, stamp a letter "A" after the cast-in MF-152.

First, the two tabs on the MF-152 Inner Gear Guard (the mostly flat plate that the rear cover mostly hides) were to act as a stop prevent the hinged gear cover from going in too far.  With the MFC version attached by the two screws, that is unnecessary and they were eventually deleted from the castings.  Someone up this thread reported having in inner guard with one of the tabs ground off and covered with factory paint.  That probably happened on the assembly line in the early days after the changeover from B to C models.  Apparently the lower tab isn't in the way so they just didn't bother to remove it.

I'll add more later.  Right now my wife is calling me to dinner.


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## wa5cab (Oct 20, 2017)

I was just going to add that Atlas made some mistakes in the changeover to the MF-28A rear gear cover.  And in MMB-5.  They should have revised the part number of the MF-152 to MF-152A but don't appear to have done so.  They must have just dropped one of the tabs as a revision on the drawing but without adding the "A".  Probably on the theory that if anyone called the factory who needed MF-152, they would get one that would work with either MF-28 or MF-28A.  However, I revised MMB-5 as if they had just so someone with an MFB or MFA who needed either part would know that there was a difference.  In MMB-5, they also did not show the MF-152 on Page 13 which is supposed to show those parts on the MFB that are different from those on the MFC.  So someone with B or earlier would think that the MF-152 on their machine would fit MF-28A.  As D did.  They probably didn't count on any of the mills still being in service half a century after they went out of production.  Nor on there being a used parts market like eBay.

Anyway, anyone else faced with this issue will at least know that there is some difference now as I added the inner gear guard to page 13.


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## 34_40 (Oct 21, 2017)

34_40 said:


> In your first picture, there are 2 large holes  (1/2" or 3/4" maybe) and I don't remember seeing that before,  I'm pretty sure mine doesn't have those?
> And mine is a MF, the cover looks like the one you sold.  What does all that mean? I haven't a clue... just an observation.



I guess I'll answer my own question as I realized the two holes I mentioned are for the "fasteners" that secure the overarm support.


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## CluelessNewB (Oct 21, 2017)

34_40 said:


> I guess I'll answer my own question as I realized the two holes I mentioned are for the "fasteners" that secure the overarm support.



Oh those holes  
I don't have any good pictures but you can see the  "arbor support arm locks" in this picture.


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## VSAncona (Nov 29, 2017)

Interesting. I own an MFC and the door has a knob (not bolts) and the inner gear guard has the tabs.


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## 34_40 (Nov 29, 2017)

CluelessNewB said:


> Oh those holes
> I don't have any good pictures but you can see the  "arbor support arm locks" in this picture.
> 
> View attachment 244772



Dang that's a pretty machine!


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## CluelessNewB (Nov 29, 2017)

34_40 said:


> Dang that's a pretty machine!



Lots of time and rattle can paint


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## 34_40 (Nov 30, 2017)

CluelessNewB said:


> Lots of time and rattle can paint



Gives me a goal to attempt to reach.  Get mine as nice as that one.


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## Silverbullet (Dec 1, 2017)

I'd say notch it , it'll act like a locating pin and help with any vibration noise that may happen there. Man I wish I could be working on mine too.


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## commoncal (Dec 1, 2017)

Great thread....


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## VSAncona (Dec 1, 2017)

Whether you grind a notch in the gear cover or grind off the tab on the inner guard, getting the gear cover to fit seems like a minor issue. The bigger question is how difficult will it be to find a door that will work with the later gear cover, assuming the one you bought didn't come with one?


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## Silverbullet (Dec 2, 2017)

In a pinch you could make the door out of a pvc pipe coupler , it can be cut and molded to shape , there strong can be drilled and tapped. Prime and paint. It only covers the gearbox for SAFTEY.


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