# What’s the best spray to use to protect lathe / mill parts



## Spotshooter (Apr 21, 2019)

I saw someone mention rustlick 631, and thought it would be a good thing to ask the group what everyone uses..


----------



## Tom1948 (Apr 21, 2019)

I have been using Fluid Film. It has a lot of lanolin in it. Seems to work okay. About $8.00 for a spray can.


----------



## higgite (Apr 21, 2019)

What parts are you protecting and what are you protecting them from? And what environment are they in? Thanks.

Tom


----------



## KMoffett (Apr 21, 2019)

I use KoolMist water based coolant. I've been using 3M M1 spray to protect the mill table and vise before and after I mill with coolant.  And have had no problems.

Ken


----------



## kd4gij (Apr 21, 2019)

Brake free CLP. It protects my fire arms and machines.


----------



## Spotshooter (Apr 21, 2019)

My machines are in my basement -  ways oil of course on the ways -

So the question is about the chucks and or other tooling,  I don’t have an issue I’m trying to combat - just being conservative and learning from others.


----------



## dbq49 (Apr 21, 2019)

Last summer I came across a blog that took 48 pcs of rolled steel and coated them with different coatings.  I tried the 75% ISO068 and 25% pure lanolin.  Heated it and stirred to mix.  Worked fine.  I also had to order on line a WD40 specialist Long -term CORROSION inhibitor.  Everyone had some form of WD but no specialist long-term.  On the tools that I sprayed the Corrosion inhibitor,  this spring all the tools looked like I had just sprayed them, no rust just shinny metal.  Like I said google it and get four cans to have on hand.  They only contain 6.5 oz of fluid.


----------



## matthewsx (Apr 21, 2019)

Coat it in cosmoline and wrap in brown paper


----------



## ThinWoodsman (Apr 22, 2019)

Bob Korves' version of Ed's Red: lanolin ATF, and mineral spirits. Keep a sure-shot mister full of it, works better than LPS or FluidFilm and is a lot cheaper.


----------



## Spotshooter (Apr 22, 2019)

Good grief - Not for storage ... just everyday, week or whatever production machine protection ...

I guess I should have said that earlier.

I see guys recommend WD40...   I have reservations about using that stuff on anything


----------



## Spotshooter (Apr 22, 2019)

Rustlick 631 - is the one I’ve got on order and want to try...

WD-40 seems more like something to use to clean things up vs. protect things


----------



## tq60 (Apr 22, 2019)

Mix common motor oil (whatever is handy) at about 10 to 1 to 20 to 1 solvent or paint thinner to oil.

Spray on and solvent evaporates leaving oil film.

Common use will leave skin oils in place too.

Past type floor was also works wonders.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## dbq49 (Apr 22, 2019)

I stated  "WD40 specialist Long -term CORROSION inhibitor "  NOT WD40.  Please, WD40 specialist Long -term CORROSION inhibitor.  I could not find it in any big box store or Walmart.  On line order only.


----------



## kd4gij (Apr 22, 2019)

Spotshooter said:


> Rustlick 631 - is the one I’ve got on order and want to try...
> 
> WD-40 seems more like something to use to clean things up vs. protect things




 My your handle. Looks like you may shoot. What do you use on your fire arms? Also if you go into Lowes and or home depot, you will find anti rust sprays made by PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, CRC, Zep, 3 and 1, and yes even WD40. Any one will work for you. I use Brake Free CLP because I have it on hand and it works well on my fire arms and I get it cheap at Wal Mart. Oh and every thing listed in this thread all work.


----------



## Spotshooter (Apr 22, 2019)

I use a hoppes product, but that’s an interesting line of thought....   and what I was looking for - new ideas.

I do shot a lot (understatement)... hunt, competition shoot, ...  
Thnx


----------



## Tim9 (Apr 26, 2019)

Lanolin based oils really work great. I’m sold on lanolin and FWIW... New Orleans is like living in the tropics in my opinion. 100% condensing humidity is the norm. 
   I purchased raw lanolin on EBay and mix my own. Couple of tablespoon scoops of lanolin mixed with heated oil and then thinned with mineral spirits. It’s been working great.


----------



## NortonDommi (Apr 26, 2019)

Straight No.2 diesel.  I also use it as deodorant and it keeps fleas away.


----------



## gi_984 (May 2, 2019)

Boeshield T-9


----------



## Splat (May 3, 2019)

Dbq49, this the stuff you using? They have it at Home Depot for $11.97 can. Thanks.


----------



## Littlebriar (May 4, 2019)

A couple years ago, Fine Woodworking magazine did an extensive study on rust inhibitors for machinery surfaces. They compared a ton of different products from WD40 to Boeshield T-9. This CRC 3-36 product came out as best and it's reasonably priced too. Almost half the price of T-9. The article was published in 2012 and I notice that CRC has a new product which is probably better but I don't have experience with it.  I have a pdf of the article if anyone is interested. I don't want to publish copyrighted material but PM me and I can get it to you.


----------



## Cooter Brown (May 4, 2019)

I like rust-oleum rust inhibitor everything I spray it on stays bright and shiny but the best part is that its available at home depot and you don't need to order it....






						Amazon.com: Rust-Oleum 224284 Stops Rust Inhibitor 10.25-Ounce Spray, Clear: Home Improvement
					

Amazon.com: Rust-Oleum 224284 Stops Rust Inhibitor 10.25-Ounce Spray, Clear: Home Improvement



					www.amazon.com


----------



## Mitch Alsup (May 4, 2019)

I just keep mine smothered in ISO 64


----------



## Rickmo (May 15, 2019)

I have great results with RIG ("Rust Inhibiting Grease"), now marketed by Birchwood Casey.  It doesn't spray on, but wipes on easily.  I  keep a "RIG Rag" in a large shoe polish tin to keep the dust off it and its always ready.  Replace the ragged rag as needed.  I've had a quart for 15+ years and it's only half gone because a little goes a long way.  Works great on fire arms.  I apply once a season - no rust.  Used on lathe ways, drill press tables & columns, milling machines, and hand instruments - no problems!     Try it - you'll like it!!!         Rickmo


----------



## T Bredehoft (May 15, 2019)

I guess i'm blessed, My shop is in the basement, same room as the furnace.  We've lived here 40 years, I've never made any attempt rust proof or other than lubricate any metal surfaces. Everything's shiny and bright, except the table saw,which before I moved lived in the unheated barn and is brown on top.


----------



## Rickmo (May 15, 2019)

My shop is in the basement also, but in an unheated room.  I don't have much of a problem with rust, but I try to stay ahead of it, especially the measuring tools, etc.   They always get a Rig Rag treatment before they are put away.  Rig works especially well on my guns that are out in all kinds of weather and NO rust - ever.  Gotta love the stuff!   (and I'm NOT a p[aid spokesman!!!)


----------



## Rickmo (May 15, 2019)

Is that a photo of a Studebaker?  Golden Hawk?


----------



## Nogoingback (May 15, 2019)

Use your machines regularly and use plenty of oil when you do.  That'll keep them nice and oily
and you won't have to use anything.


----------



## T Bredehoft (May 15, 2019)

Rickmo said:


> Is that a photo of a Studebaker? Golden Hawk?



Yes, a '53 Commander. The  Golden Hawk was a '56 and later.  Studebakerk introduced a 120 HP V8 in 1951, it had 232 CI. In '55 they increased it to 259, The Golden Hawk in 56 had a 354 Packard engine. They ran out of Packard engines and stroked the 259 to 289 in '57, and put a supercharger on it. The Hawks all had egg crate grills, ala Mercedes. I have no idea of the latler horse powers, but there;s a '55 coupe like mine leading its class in the All Stock Drags in Michigan every year. There's a late model (62 or so) sedan that beat a Yenko Camero so many times he stopped coming. 

My coupe lives in the my garage, it doesn't have any rust on it either.


----------



## Rickmo (May 15, 2019)

Well . . . . that's the problem. . . .  I only get occasional nights, weekends, and holidays in the shop.   I'm still working - at age 76!   The War Dept has other plans for my time.  Happy wife; happy life!!!   It's a tough act balancing shop time against being PW.  Actually, she has a bad back and much of the heavy-duty house work falls on me - or it doesn't get done.   Shop time is a cruel mistress.  Anticipating retirement with more available shop time!!!    There is no question that you are ABSOLUTELY correct!!!!!


----------



## Rickmo (May 15, 2019)

T Bredehoft said:


> Yes, a '53 Commander. The  Golden Hawk was a '56 and later.  Studebakerk introduced a 120 HP V8 in 1951, it had 232 CI. In '55 they increased it to 259, The Golden Hawk in 56 had a 354 Packard engine. They ran out of Packard engines and stroked the 259 to 289 in '57, and put a supercharger on it. The Hawks all had egg crate grills, ala Mercedes. I have no idea of the latler horse powers, but there;s a '55 coupe like mine leading its class in the All Stock Drags in Michigan every year. There's a late model (62 or so) sedan that beat a Yenko Camero so many times he stopped coming.
> 
> My coupe lives in the my garage, it doesn't have any rust on it either.


Double Cool!!!   We had a Golden Hawk in the late 50's - early 60's and, man, that thing ran like a scalded ape!   I really enjoyed the get up and go!!!!  Then I went off to college in an MG-A.   Not as much power but much more fun to drive - and a chick magnet!  You're a lucky gentleman to own one - and no rust!!  Nice!!


----------

