# Free up a very stiff Bridgeport Series 1 Ram



## dansawyer (Mar 23, 2021)

The Ram on my Bridgeport Series 1 (BOSS CNC) is very stiff. It will move, but with all the force I can muster on a 9 inch shaft. I have read about a pincing mechanism front and rear. The advice seems to be remove the 2 locking nuts and liberally spray penetrating oil in the two holes and the front and rear along the 'ways'.
Is this the best advice? 
Is it missing anything? 
Thanks in advance. Dan


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## ddillman (Mar 23, 2021)

has it been working ok and then tightened up on you?


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## dansawyer (Mar 23, 2021)

I just got the mill about 2 months ago. I have only tried to move it about 3 times, there is no change. It moves but is very very stiff.


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## ddillman (Mar 23, 2021)

the quill lock isn't on is it letter L


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## dansawyer (Mar 23, 2021)

I may have used the wrong term. It is the machanism that sits on the top of the column and moves the head assembly front to back. It is held in place by two botls and moved by a lever in the middle. It is not a precision movement. It is usually locked in place so I understand it it common to freeze up. There is somekind of pincer mechanism that apparently gets stiff.


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## Lo-Fi (Mar 23, 2021)

Mine was stuck fast. I used a small hydraulic ram between the columns and head, which freed it enough to start it moving. It didn't take much, just more than you could reasonably expect of the little rack and pinion. You could easily pull it backwards with a ratchet strap too. I came to the conclusion that it was simply gummed up with old oil which had turned to thick sticky grease on large working surfaces.

Plenty of penetrating fluid, cleaning and working it won the day. Try tapping the heads of the lock bolts lightly too, but he wary of removing them completely - they're a swine to get back in. 

I guarantee that leaving it unlocked and trying a Y axis climb cut will result in it moving quite freely, though!!!


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## dirty tools (Mar 23, 2021)

Clean and lube
i also had to uses a jack to move it
rust/dirt Lakshmi of use


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## markba633csi (Mar 23, 2021)

A good secret sauce is a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone.  Apply and allow to soak for a few days.  You can also use the old standby liquid wrench but I think the sauce works a bit better
The acetone may be hard on paint so beware of putting it where you don't want it
-Mark


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## dansawyer (Mar 24, 2021)

Yes, I am familiar with that mixture. I started using it about 30 rears ago. I would run an auto engine up to temperature, turn it off, and pour 2 cups into the oil. I would then let it sit overnight and run the engine 20 to 30 miles and then change the oil. This did wonders for cleaning out gunk and carbon.


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## markba633csi (Mar 24, 2021)

I think that mixture actually used kerosene instead of acetone but yes it does work
-Mark


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## Watchwatch (Mar 24, 2021)

markba633csi said:


> I think that mixture actually used kerosene instead of acetone but yes it does work
> -Mark



IIRC, that’s the main ingredients of Kroil penetrating oil


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## dansawyer (Mar 30, 2021)

Has anyone disassembled the 'locking' mechanism? There appears to be some kind of square pin. Is this a locking pin? If so will removing it free up the pincers?
This was premature: I checked both locking pincers and they were free. Whatever is stuck, it is not the pincers. 
It is still stuck. I am spraying everywhere about twice per day. I am considering creating an all thread 'press'.


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## sdelivery (Mar 31, 2021)

An all thread press is what finally freed mine up.


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## dansawyer (Apr 1, 2021)

Mine came unstuck last night. The turret had been removed and the ram had been moved all the way back for better balance. I had been spraying PB Buster and WD-40 into it for days where there were way interfaces I could reach. Finaly it simply 'let' go. I would not call it at all loose, but it is free. For anyone with this problem time, perserverance, and lots of anti seize spray worked in one case. 
Thank you all for your help.


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