# Clamping Options On A Drill Press Production Table



## louosten (Mar 20, 2015)

Hello To All;

I was wondering what options are available to clamp work pieces to a smooth production table with no slots. As near as I can determine, the best mechanical advantage would be C-Clamps from each side; though the available space underneath the table is restricted by the table webbing from the original casting process.

Magnetic devices are a possibility, although I have never personally used them. What say the local hobby machinists on this topic? Thanks in advance!

Lou O.


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## Franko (Mar 20, 2015)

Little Machine Shop sells a very good magnetic base for about $10. I have several that I use for jigging and clamping on my shop press and welding table. I have a grinder rest attached to one of them. 

Part Number: 2407

M8 threaded hole in top
Base is 65 mm long, 50 mm wide, and 53 mm tall
170 lbs. Power Pull


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## Ulma Doctor (Mar 20, 2015)

As you said C-Clamps will work, 
Kant-Twist also manufacturers clamps of varying sizes as does Vise Grip.
A magnetic work holder would be an option too.

Some work is left better unclamped to the table


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## francist (Mar 20, 2015)

I usually use the C-clamp method but as you say the webs underneath can be a real pain. For multiple runs of similar items I'll often make up a quick secondary surface out of medite or aluminum and fit it out with DeStaCo toggle clamps. I c-clamp the secondary surface to the table once and then after that all the parts get positioned and held using the toggle clamps. Makes for really quick part turnaround and avoids having to dodge the webs every time.

-frank


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## Fabrickator (Mar 20, 2015)

A secondary surface is best.  If you have some holes you could use bench dogs.


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## John Hasler (Mar 20, 2015)

louosten said:


> Hello To All;
> 
> I was wondering what options are available to clamp work pieces to a smooth production table with no slots. As near as I can determine, the best mechanical advantage would be C-Clamps from each side; though the available space underneath the table is restricted by the table webbing from the original casting process.
> 
> ...


My Avey drill press (now a mill) shipped with a smooth table.  By the time I got it (fifty years after it left the factory) it had zillions of 1/2" tapped holes in it.  Some of them now serve to secure my mill table.


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## Round in circles (Mar 22, 2015)

I have a variety of F clamps that screw up to the top on a thread , they are quick release one that lock up on a milled edge type . Some are dinky little pairs ,ones that are just 2 " from heel to toe of the jaw and they only open to 3 " wide  .  The other pairs s range from  3 inch jaws right up to 8 inch jaws .
 On a couple of the bigger pairs I chopped off the width adjusting shank to about 4 inches long for I can't get much bigger stuff  under the drill tip , I also cut the tightening handles down so that they are basically almost a small wooden ball and steel ferrule as the handles often got in the way .  A couple of times I've used these clamps and a fulcrum and lever with a small "V " ground in the clamping end and brayed over a tad to make a clamping claw and spot welde a  big nut to teh clamping bar where the 2 F" clamp will sit  it's then been set up and I've used an " F " clamps to apply pressure forward of the fulcrum point to make a strong clamp force. 


 Another thing I've done both using 2x 2 wood or bigger  , also square tube and various angled irons & alloys is make a long bar that runs under the table and an identical one above it then use steel studding bar and lock nuts to make the clamp  across the material and the table .  Pack the middle of the bar with a few thinnish strips of aluminium so that when the nuts are tightened and the bars  bow in the middle there will still be a clamping force in several places across the work rather than just at the edges  .

 When using  the wooden bars I've sometimes gently routed or electric hand planed  the lower edges of the upper bar  so it is ever so gently bowed  .. this is so that greater pressure is applied to the middle of the work and reduces the likelihood of damage to a delicate outer edge especially when working with woods or plastics


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## louosten (Mar 24, 2015)

Found this reference to the problem on a woodworking forum on the web:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2007/06/29/ws/

Lou O.


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## T Bredehoft (Mar 24, 2015)

I've done that around the edge of my table saw, haven't gotten to the drill press yet, but probably soon.  

I like the 'secondary surface', just another fixture. Ditto the De-Sta-Co clamps.


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## w9jbc (Mar 24, 2015)

we have one here in the tool room that has a clamp that goes around the column and has a screw that holds stuff down


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