# Splat's new Heavy 10



## Splat

Well guys I found an old SB Heavy 10 CL187Z for sale, $1200. He states he got it in working condition and seems to work fine now but he never supposedly learned how to use it so doesn't know much. The lathe was passed down to him last year. He says he had tooling for it but cannot find it so as of right now what is pictured is what buyer will get. I asked seller to send me some pics of the ways. Can this beast be disassembled to move it? Neither I nor the seller has a forklift, or lift of any kind to get it into my truck.

I tried to figure out from the Web how much it should be going for. If anyone can inform me how much they figure it's worth and any specs (spindle hole size, metric threading?, etc) on it I would greatly appreciate it. Here's some pics of it:


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## jocat54

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Probably not much help from me--but I would think you should be able to disassemble it enough to get it in your truck, may take a while but I know you could do it:biggrin:

I also think that would be a excellent price if it were in south Texas--maybe not great where you are but a decent price.


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## ScrapMetal

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Since you already have a truck you could easily go to a "rental" type place and get an engine lift/crane that could handle it.  Just be careful as it is a very "unbalanced" load.

The price doesn't seem bad for a machine in that kind of shape (depending on the ways) and a real bonus if he turns up the tooling/extras.

Hope this helps,

-Ron


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Thanks guys. I take it being this is old American machinery it won't do metric threading?  I'm trying to find specs on this lathe but no luck yet. Anyone know the size of the hole thru spindle? I'm waiting for the seller to send me the serial #. Maybe that'll get me somewhere.


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## Redirish

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

It will do metric threading with a set of transposing gears, I had a set but sold them a year or so back. I see them on ebay sometimes. The spindle bore is 1-3/8 as I recall.:thinking:


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Update:  Seller doesn not have 220 so I won't be able to experience this lathe running. Is it possible to move the gearing and clutch while the unit is not moving and how hard should it be to move them? Thanks guys.


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

The more I think about this I'm leaning towards not going for it. (1) No 220V so can't test run the machine; (2)I've relatively no lathe experience but have made a checklist of what to look for but I'm sure I'll miss something; (3) gonna be a PITA to move it into the van so I'd have to disassemble as much as I can; (4) seller supposedly knows nothing about the lathe because it was passed down to him; (5) no tooling; (6) I don't have 220v 3 phase so would have to either buy or build a phase convertor or buy a new 110V or 220V single phase motor...


VERSES

 driving to Grizzly and having them forklift a G0602 or G9972Z  into my van and worrying about getting it into my basement when I get home with a brand new lathe.

I'd rather have old American iron but with all these variable against me it's looking like I should go to Grizzly. What say you guys?  Anybody in central or northern NJ wanna take a ride up to Sussex with me to check out this SB lathe? :biggrin:


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Here's a few pics of the ways the seller sent me.


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## ScrapMetal

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*



etard said:


> It looks to be in very good condition (never can tell though).  If you could get him down to $900 it would be a very good deal.  The only thing that would sway me would be the bed length, it looks pretty short.  good luck!  It also looks to be on a dolly, so if you could get a nice low trailer and a winch or come along, it should be an easy move.



:+1:  Not much I can add to that.  The bed length will be as long or longer than many machines you can buy at a greater price and is also a personal preference.  I have a longer bed length but my through-hole is only 7/8" so I needed the bed length to do anything of length.  A larger through-hole. what is most likely on this one, wouldn't limit you as much.

-Ron


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Well, the metal placard on it shows 36, but does that indicate the bed length or the between centers length?


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## Tony Wells

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Normal practice is to specify length between centers.


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*



42 said:


> Normal practice is to specify length between centers.



That's how I've known it, too, but the bed in the pics looks a tad short for a 36", no?  Maybe an optical illusion... :thinking:

Just found out the guy who the seller got it from had it repainted. He didn't like the original color. Who knows what that entails.....


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## Bobby Bailey

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Normal practice for South Bend is not the distance between centers ,but rather it is the length of the bed.
Bobby


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## Tony Wells

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

I remember hearing that about SB lathes before, now that you mention it, Bobby. I had forgotten. I'm not a big South Bend guy.


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Thanks Bobby. So between centers it could be between 26"-28".....?  That's what it looks like to me, but I'm deaf in both eyes.


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Seller was finally able to find the serial #.  Can anyone give me a guesstamation on the year of build for 9233RKL14 ?  Thank you.


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## GK1918

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

I hope this helps a little I have come up with around 1957 for 9233R     L10  and the
next run of #9,000s would be 1962 but for a 10K.  I forget when but I think 1947 they
changed serial no. system.  Myself I would buy it wave the green stuff and then as
noted just lighten the load.  If you do not have 220vac Id just leave the motor there
it will run fine on any 110.  And the last time I had to load a machine, I just scoped 
out or ask around good place is auto repair for a ramp truck. Found one and hey buddie
want a quick $25-winch on flat bed, tilt bed- right in my truck 10 minutes.  Some
planks, pipe and roll it right in. In general is a good all around lathe. I am sure every
body roams around on Ebay, looks like all of a sudden prices shot up like double, even
some with no quick change box???? and usually 5 million miles away. Now here is my
story, a freind asked my to check out a lathe he got, its before the telephone, but 
I forget about the lathe its 9x42 J Bridgeport that got me,  he said ya I got two for
nothing just get them out, sold other for $1500 again I snooze I lost.


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*



etard said:


> What's the word Splat?  I am following your epic lathe saga with baited breath... What will he buy?  How far is he willing to go??  How the heck is he going to move the thing???? :lmao::lmao:



Tell me about it! I'm waiting to see what happens too! :biggrin:      Now I see a Logan 10x24 on Ebay here that I'm thinking of bidding on. No quick change gear box though but looks in really nice condition.




etard said:


> I'm with you buddy, I actually bought a very similar lathe that somebody had stashed in their backyard in the desert.  I paid $500 and never got to see it run.  I didn't have to load though (plenty o tweakers looking for something to do in the desert )  Not sure what I'm going to do with it, I may take it apart to clean it up and that will help lighten the load for unloading.  That lathe you posted looks pretty good, I would definately buy it for $1000, comes with a nice chuck too! the bed is a little short though...  Definately 36" end to end, mines 4' but badly worn.  Some pics:



Oofah... yeah, maybe you could part it out....? I don't know..


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*



etard said:


> Well, it's not so bad, I just sold it for twice what I paid for it! :biggrin:  Go get that 10L already!!



No kidding?! Good on ya, man! :thumbzup:  I don't have that luck. I'm thinking about the 10L. There is no tooling coming with it if I do get it so don't know if it's worth the $1200 he's asking. I already have a PhaseII wedge type AXA set so at least there's that and the chuck it has. If it's in decent condition we shall see.....


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

BTW, I haven't been able to find the answer to my question of....  it states a 36" bed length so what does that equate to between centers on South Bends like this Heavy 10?


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## Bobby Bailey

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

3 ft. bed, threaded spindle, 14.25" between centers
3.5 ft. bed, threaded, 20.25"
4 ft. bed, threaded, 26 7/8"
4.5 ft. bed, threaded, 34.25"
Loo taper, subtract 1 21/32"
D1-4, subtract 1"
This info is from South Bend sheet EP-108-2, dated 3-31-58, for 10L lathes

Bobby


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*



Bobby Bailey said:


> 3 ft. bed, threaded spindle, 14.25" between centers
> 3.5 ft. bed, threaded, 20.25"
> 4 ft. bed, threaded, 26 7/8"
> 4.5 ft. bed, threaded, 34.25"
> Loo taper, subtract 1 21/32"
> D1-4, subtract 1"
> This info is from South Bend sheet EP-108-2, dated 3-31-58, for 10L lathes
> 
> Bobby



Thank you, Bobby!


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## bigmac

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Splat, Any missing tooling is available for the 10L, but not for free. General rule of thumb states that a lathe with no tooling will double in price when fully tooled. Try to get the seller to find it or lower the price. In transporting, to tip it over is death. I've read horror stories. Highly recommend skidding with a wide skid. Good luck!


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*



bigmac said:


> Splat, Any missing tooling is available for the 10L, but not for free. General rule of thumb states that a lathe with no tooling will double in price when fully tooled. Try to get the seller to find it or lower the price. In transporting, to tip it over is death. I've read horror stories. Highly recommend skidding with a wide skid. Good luck!



Transporting would be a major job, yep. The 18" between centers is not gonna be enough for what I want to do for the first couple of jobs so I'll pro'lly be passing on the lathe.


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

The Heavy 10L is now at her final home.    I went and got her     yesterday. I was lucky because my brother got paged out in the     morning so my helper was gone anic:, but the seller was kind enough to     help me disassemble and load her into the van.  :worship:   What     a heavy beast!  "jawdrop:   I broke it     down into motor, carriage, bed & headstock(w/stuck chuck!), chip     pan, legs, and motor enclosure/stand. I followed the disassemble tutorial floating around the web and it wasn't that bad. I'm still surprised how easy it went. 

Here's a few pics right before commencing teardown: 




I don't know why but I didn't take a whole front shot of the lathe. I have more pics but they're all closeups of carriage, inside motor housing, etc...

There are a few dings in the way up by the headstock but the carriage rides smooth and seems ok but I won't know until she's back together. 






The reverse latch was broken off so have to either make one somehow or find one. Anybody got an extra laying around?




There's a lotta gunk in the carriage so she'll need a good cleaning. I guess the threading dial is supposed to go here where the bent pointed screw is now:




The leather belt is in decent condition. It's got a weird way of joining both ends with a pin sliding thru "teeth"(?) but it seems like it should work ok.




The tool and cross slides are smooth, though the tool slide seems to have tight gibs. 
The tailstock does not appear to be the original. I called SB and get  the serial(?) for the tailstock for this lathe but it doesn't match the  #'s on the tailstock I got. There's a bit of rust on the inside but the  ram works fine. 




I was surprised to see it's got a Bison 6" (didn't measure yet but think it's that) chuck on it. Hope it's in good condition. It looks ok, but the seller didn't have a chuck key so gotta get one. It's stuck on pretty good. :scared: We tried removing it at the seller's house but no luck. I have to take it off before moving the bed because it's gotta easily be about 25pounds alone.




The 220v 3-phase motor looks new but how of course once you get it in you don't move it much.  I'm debating whether to get a phase change convertor, which would also provide variable speed, or get a straight 110v 3/4hp. I'm thinking the convertor would be better, no?




The motor enclosure/stand was a bit heavy, you could say. :yikes:  I know folks say "heavier is better" for lathes and mills but you really can't appreciate it until you have to move one of these beasts, or until your first deep cuts/turns on the machine. 

Setting wood blocks correctly under the headstock so no weight was on the quick change box's gears was a minor pita. Then I had to figure how to store the carriage safely...turning it upside down and sitting it on its top seemed to be ok.  I then secured everything with major strappage and tie downs and it was time to boogey.  I traveled home thru some serious lightening and thunder. Here she is arrived at her new home. I had already removed some pieces from the van.





Breaking her down was nothing but moving was another thing. The tutorial states 1 person could do it but I disagree unless they have  a hoist or crane. Even then you have to be real attentive while lifting  to ensure straps/ropes are not slipping, and the weight is balanced,  etc...  She's in pretty good condition for a 1957 machine. From what I can see  there are no teeth missing from any gears. So now she needs a good  cleaning. Lots of metal, grease, and grime. Thanks to you guys who replied to me about this lathe.* Hey, I finally got a lathe!*  :biggrin:


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## ScrapMetal

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

For parts, Plaza Machinery http://www.plazamachinery.com/  has a good reputation except that owner has some health issues and can be difficult to get a hold of.  Here's his .pdf list of stuff for sale: http://www.plazamachinery.com/files/metal-5-23-2012.pdf

-Ron


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*



ScrapMetal said:


> For parts, Plaza Machinery http://www.plazamachinery.com/  has a good reputation except that owner has some health issues and can be difficult to get a hold of.  Here's his .pdf list of stuff for sale: http://www.plazamachinery.com/files/metal-5-23-2012.pdf



Thanks Ron. I'll check him out.


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*



etard said:


> Congrats Splat!  It looks like your weekends are booked for a bit now. :biggrin:  Take some pics when you get it into your workspace.



Hells yeah. :biggrin:   Now The Boss says it's gotta go in the garage. I have the mill in the basement workshop but she doesn't like the smell of Tap Magic Pro when I was milling some hardened steel. If I move everything into the garage I'm worried about rust on the mill and lathe come cold weather. Oh well, can't have everything.  But hey, I got a lathe!


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## ScrapMetal

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*



Splat said:


> Hells yeah. :biggrin:   Now The Boss says it's gotta go in the garage. I have the mill in the basement workshop but she doesn't like the smell of Tap Magic Pro when I was milling some hardened steel. If I move everything into the garage I'm worried about rust on the mill and lathe come cold weather. Oh well, can't have everything.  But hey, I got a lathe!



Simple!  Just make your garage "climate controlled" like mine:


The heat pump part is out back. :biggrin:  I have no trouble in the summer or winter with excess humidity, thermostat is set to 73 degrees year-round.

-Ron


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*



ScrapMetal said:


> Simple!  Just make your garage "climate controlled" like mine:
> 
> 
> The heat pump part is out back. :biggrin:  I have no trouble in the summer or winter with excess humidity, thermostat is set to 73 degrees year-round.
> -Ron



Come on! That's a beer fridge with some ducting!   You do installs?


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

After some gentle persuading "the Boss" let me put the H10 into my basement shop. hew:  What a PITA getting it down stairs. I rented a 2ton engine crane for $40 and it was worth it. I got everything into the basement myself, with the exception of the bed with headstock and chuck still on it (couldn't get damn chuck off no matter what) which my brother helped me with. Even with two somewhat big guys it was a job going thru the Bilco and down 5 concrete steps. I didn't want to pull the headstock and have to realign it even though it would'a lightened the load considerably.  I'll post pics after I clean up the area. Gonna go return the crane now.
 I've done enough exercise for a day or two.  Tonight I'll have a few with my brother.


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## ScrapMetal

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

I'm guessing she figures she can keep a better eye on you if you're in the house. :lmao: :lmao:  I'm glad you have things worked out and can make chips in comfort.  I have a warning for you though, "Do NOT start tracking chips upstairs!!!"  Trust me on this one.  :biggrin:

-Ron


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## hardhatdiver

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Splat,

Early in this thread you had some concerns regarding powering your lathe. Did you get those figured out? I ran my 10L for years with a 1.5hp 110V motor until I finally got a three phase converter and put the original motor back in. To run a single phase motor some time ago I went through the wall and tapped into the 220 powering the laundry dryer. Most panels on the side of the house generally have one or two open slots. I added a 100amp breaker to mine when I acquired the 15kW phase converter that now runs the whole shop. There's always a way. I currently have a 16" Bradford lathe and a 16" South Bend, but my 10L toolroom is my little workhorse. You're gonna love it.

Regards,
Jeremy


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*



hardhatdiver said:


> Early in this thread you had some concerns regarding powering your lathe. Did you get those figured out?



Hey Jeremy. I don't have it hooked up yet because I'm still refurbing my 10L but I believe I have it figured out. I bought this 1-phase  110v to 3-phase 220v convertor. It's highly regarded so I went with it.  I thought of dropping off a 220v from my panel which is only about 15'  away from the lathe but I figured it'd be easier to just get the  convertor. 



hardhatdiver said:


> I ran my 10L for years with a 1.5hp 110V motor until I finally got a three phase converter and put the original motor back in. To run a single phase motor some time ago I went through the wall and tapped into the 220 powering the laundry dryer. Most panels on the side of the house generally have one or two open slots. I added a 100amp breaker to mine when I acquired the 15kW phase converter that now runs the whole shop. There's always a way. I currently have a 16" Bradford lathe and a 16" South Bend, but my 10L toolroom is my little workhorse. You're gonna love it.



100A breaker? Ooofah! "There's a couple of nasty switches over there but I won't be the first." :biggrin:  That must be a nice sized shop. How big's the shop?


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## hardhatdiver

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Young Frankenstein! Classic Peter Boyle (Gene Wilder too)!

My shop takes up our three car garage until my wife lets me move back out to the sticks where I can spread out a little. The phase converter required the 100A circuit. That TECO unit you bought looks promising, and it has a rheostat. You'll have to let us know how what you think of it. The price is right.

Regards,
Jeremy


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## woodtickgreg

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Splat, I just found this thread on your 10L find and journey. The lathe you have found is in better cosmetic condition than the one I found and I didn't get a chuck! Interesting read though, I remember taking mine all apart to move it also. Taking it apart was easy, moving it was a pita! The pedestal base is heavy even without the motor in it. Sounds like you have made good progress on yours, as I am having fun on mine! It'll be fun to watch each others progress on these jewels. Lots of elbow grease and a labor of love.


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## Splat

*....and now the rebuild!*

Figured I'll continue this thread on my ongoing rebuild of this Heavy 10. I bought the lathe last summer and started to rebuild it but then things happen and priorities get straightened out quickly. The lathe took a back seat until a few weeks ago. Let's see here.... the stand/motor compartment, chip pan and legs, lathe bed (except ways of course), tailstock, and QCGB were all cleaned and painted last summer. The only good thing about 100ºF+ temps is if painting outside it will dry fast.   Oh, I forgot about the VFD! DOH!  I obtained a JNEV-101-H1 from http://dealerselectric.com and installed it into a big NEMA box I had along with toggle switches for on/off, for/rev rotation, a speed dial, and an LED idiot light so I know when it's energized.  I fabricated a mounting arm to hold the box using some old cymbal stand parts I had laying around. See what I'm saying here. Don't ever let your sig/other tell you it's junk! You never know when you can use it! 

So the latest is I just got done cleaning and doing the first coat on the apron but it won't be dry till Friday. After that it's the compound and then the headstock. Wish I took more pics along the way but it wouldn't be as cool as WoodtickGreg's. Here's what she looks like now.


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## woodtickgreg

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Splat, it is cool, very cool. Keep posting pics as you go, she's looking good. It's kinda funny, I just reread this whole thread and it reminded me of when I found mine and how very little I knew about it when I got it. Your questions where very similar to mine. We just kinda figure it out as we go right? No one should feel that their work is not worthy of sharing with others. I remember when I started mine and was doing research on it and I saw some of the amazing builds that are out there and I thought, wow, mine will never be as good as theirs, but I showed my work anyway. You should too, and be proud of what you accomplish and don't compare your work to anyone elses. If it turns out better than it was when you got it then it's all good. It already looks better.


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Thanks Greg. I _am _proud of what I accomplished so far. You guys just kill me with your paint jobs looking so darn good.   When I got the lathe home last year I started thinking "what have I done?!" and "I should have just bought a new Chi-Tai lathe and be done with it" but now I'm glad and proud of owning a piece of Americana. I just hope she works as well as I'm getting her looking.


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## Splat

*Heavy 10 Cross Feed Oiler/Screw for nut?*

Took some time but finally got the apron done. It's such a beautiful thing seeing parts all cleaned up, ain't it?   So moving onward to the saddle now and I already see two weird things.  

There's supposed to be an oiler port or grease fitting (spring loaded ball type?) and screw of some kind in the saddle in front of the cross feed/compound. It would be #44 & 45 on the diagram I attached. On mine it's a simple cap screw that goes all the thru the saddle to secure the crossfeeed nut. Am I right that I'm missing something (oiler?) or should I leave it or...? 

Here's WoodtickGreg's photo and you can see the port I'm talking about.  
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41671&d=1350947750


(EDIT)  I ain't gonna worry about it.  I'll have to remember to carefully remove the screw, add oil, then put screw back in and that should be fine. I could get a grease/oil fitting from Mcmaster but don't know if it'll be long enough to reach the crossfeed nut.


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## ChuckB

*Re: Heavy 10 Cross Feed Oiler/Screw for nut?*



Splat said:


> Took some time but finally got the apron done. It's such a beautiful thing seeing parts all cleaned up, ain't it?   So moving onward to the saddle now and I already see two weird things.
> 
> There's supposed to be an oiler port or grease fitting (spring loaded ball type?) and screw of some kind in the saddle in front of the cross feed/compound. It would be #44 & 45 on the diagram I attached. On mine it's a simple cap screw that goes all the thru the saddle to secure the crossfeeed nut. Am I right that I'm missing something (oiler?) or should I leave it or...?
> 
> Here's WoodtickGreg's photo and you can see the port I'm talking about.
> http://www.hobby-machinist.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41671&d=1350947750
> 
> 
> (EDIT)  I ain't gonna worry about it.  I'll have to remember to carefully remove the screw, add oil, then put screw back in and that should be fine. I could get a grease/oil fitting from Mcmaster but don't know if it'll be long enough to reach the crossfeed nut.



Thats just a fancy hollowed out screw with a small removable allen screw in the center. Serves two purposes.. the hollowed out screw holds the crossfeed nut tight and the removable allen screws allows you to drop oil on the crossfeed screw, which is important, but if you have a little patience, you could hollow out a screw yourself and find a plug for it.. I am getting mine together too. I just ordered a new crossfeed nut.


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## woodtickgreg

*Re: Heavy 10 Cross Feed Oiler/Screw for nut?*



ChuckB said:


> Thats just a fancy hollowed out screw with a small removable allen screw in the center. Serves two purposes.. the hollowed out screw holds the crossfeed nut tight and the removable allen screws allows you to drop oil on the crossfeed screw, which is important, but if you have a little patience, you could hollow out a screw yourself and find a plug for it.. I am getting mine together too. I just ordered a new crossfeed nut.



Agreed that it serves 2 purposes, holding the cross feed nut tight, and allowing access to oil the cross feed screw. Splat, if you can get one I would replace it since you have gone this far with the restore. Make it right, imo. When I did mine I had about .030" of backlash in the cross feed screw due to the screw that holds the nut tight was loose, when everything was tightened up on re assembly there is only about .006' of back lash now. Replace the screw with the correct parts and keep it right. imo.


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Thanks guys. I'll whip one up on the mill. BTW, I did buy new nuts for compound and crossfeed.


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## ChuckB

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*



Splat said:


> Thanks guys. I'll whip one up on the mill. BTW, I did buy new nuts for compound and crossfeed.



latheman2@aol.com has a good reputation if you need any parts. Send him an email, he might have one of those.


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Yep. Ted's helped me out in the past. Thanks.


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*

Just got done making that screw-within-a-screw (we'll call it the special bolt) for the crossfeed nut. Used a 3/8" socket head screw, drilled down the middle with a #29 drill and threaded it 8-32 for a flathead screw that acts as the oil port.

Now here's an interesting thing....... Why have this special bolt to facilitate getting oil down to the crossfeed shaft if there's no hole in the brass nut? It's kinda hard to see but the top threaded hole for the "special bolt" doesn't have a hole at the bottom so oil can get to the crossfeed shaft.  WTH?  Shouldn't there be one in there?


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## ChuckB

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*



Splat said:


> Just got done making that screw-within-a-screw (we'll call it the special bolt) for the crossfeed nut. Used a 3/8" socket head screw, drilled down the middle with a #29 drill and threaded it 8-32 for a flathead screw that acts as the oil port.
> 
> Now here's an interesting thing....... Why have this special bolt to facilitate getting oil down to the crossfeed shaft if there's no hole in the brass nut? It's kinda hard to see but the top threaded hole for the "special bolt" doesn't have a hole at the bottom so oil can get to the crossfeed shaft.  WTH?  Shouldn't there be one in there?



Maybe yours is aftermarket? There indeed should be a hole through there. The hole in mine is big enough to see threads.. about 3/16.

EDIT----------

Don't know if the hole is the right size.. I have a NOS one coming, so I can find out for sure.


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## Splat

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*



ChuckB said:


> Maybe yours is aftermarket? There indeed should be a hole through there. The hole in mine is big enough to see threads.. about 3/16.
> 
> EDIT----------
> 
> Don't know if the hole is the right size.. I have a NOS one coming, so I can find out for sure.




Actually, you're right Chuck. The brass nuts are aftermarket. I got them from Largevise/Jayhawk Machinetool on Ebay. I put an 3/16" hole into the nut and all is well. 


Vent time.... I hate it when machine/tool owners simply paint everything because it's the easiest way to do things. :angry:  Cleaning up the saddle now and my Heavy 10's PO got paint just about everywhere. Only good thing is when it's done right ...as I'm trying to do,  it all looks 100 times better when I get done.


----------



## ChuckB

*Re: Help on Used SB Heavy 10L*



Splat said:


> Actually, you're right Chuck. The brass nuts are aftermarket. I got them from Largevise/Jayhawk Machinetool on Ebay. I put an 3/16" hole into the nut and all is well.
> 
> 
> 
> Vent time.... I hate it when machine/tool owners simply paint everything because it's the easiest way to do things. :angry:  Cleaning up the saddle now and my Heavy 10's PO got paint just about everywhere. Only good thing is when it's done right ...as I'm trying to do,  it all looks 100 times better when I get done.



I'll tell you what.. I would rather have protective paint to remove instead of rust. ) You're going to hit every spot anyway, right?


The oem part, if you can find it more pricey than the in house made. Depends who made it, could be as good or better.


----------



## Splat

You guys know that feeling when you've completed cleaning and painting a piece, then reassembling it and all is well.........until something goes stupidly wrong?! :angry:   I had one of these moments today. I got the carriage all done and started putting it back onto the H10. I go to install the clamp shoes and screws into the compound rest and one of the screws isn't going in right.. like a fool I kept turning/tightening the one screw and said, "Something ain't right.."  Yeah, understatement. I buggered the first 2 threads in the hole.     I don't know what the hell I was thinking...but now I have a buggered thread so what to do......   I thought about tapping for 1/2" which would be the next size up but I think I'm going to Helicoil it. I've never used Helicoils before so it'll be a learning experience but I've tapped before so hopefully won't be that nerve racking. Gotta wait until Monday since nobody around here has the kit in stock. Everything was going good too.... so I'm leaving everything alone and will start on the headstock tomorrow. It's Miller time.     Hope you guys had a better day than me.


----------



## ChuckB

If it's only a couple threads, what I would do is to find a tap the original size, take the compound off for a clear hole, run the tap through and see if it cleans up. 2 threads shouldn't be a problem.(?)


----------



## Splat

That was the first thing I actually tried Chuck but it didn't work. Now you got me thinking maybe if I used a bottoming tap instead of a tapered one....it's worth a shot. :thinking:


----------



## ChuckB

what is the size tap you used?

You need to remove it completely so you can go all the way through.. are you trying to do it while it is still assembled?? Maybe I am missing something here (??)


----------



## Splat

ChuckB said:


> what is the size tap you used?
> 
> You need to remove it completely so you can go all the way through.. are you trying to do it while it is still assembled?? Maybe I am missing something here (??)



I don't get you here Chuck. The hole is 7/16-14 threaded only maybe halfway and then the other half is where the clamp shoes (big pins with the one end angled) go. Parts 43 and 42 on the diagram.  NES makes a tool that would work but it's around $60 IIRC.  I just had an idea. I'm going to get a 3/8-14 so it matches the pitch but is smaller than 7/16 and maybe I can somehow get the first two threads going again by working the 3/8 tap out while pressing the tap against the wall/threads. :thinking:

View attachment 911J.pdf


----------



## Splat

I ground off three of the four threaded flutes on a 7/16-14 tap so I could get it into the hole. I then tried restoring the threads by trying to press the threaded flute of the tap into the thread in the hole while going. No good. I just ordered a 7/16-14 Helicoil kit and will try that. Probably won't get here until Wednesday or Thursday. Never did one before so I hope it works.


----------



## Chuck K

"Vent time.... I hate it when machine/tool owners simply paint everything because it's the easiest way to do things. :angry: Cleaning up the saddle now and my Heavy 10's PO got paint just about everywhere. Only good thing is when it's done right ...as I'm trying to do, it all looks 100 times better when I get done. "

That's pretty much standard procedure it seems.  I love it when they leave the chuck mounted, slop paint all over the chuck, and then leave the area behind it unpainted.  I had a mill that I had to scrape the paint off the dials and index marks before I could even mill anything.  I'm thinking it must have been used as a drill press. Looks like your getting close to making chips.  I was going to suggest that you grind the end of a plug tap if you don't have a bottom tap...but I guess you tried that with your taper tap.  It would seem like you would have to grind a lot off a taper tap before you had wide enough flutes to do much cutting...just a thought. I'm sure the heli-coil will be a good fix.  Good luck,

Chuck


----------



## Ulma Doctor




----------



## ChuckB

Splat said:


> I don't get you here Chuck. The hole is 7/16-14 threaded only maybe halfway and then the other half is where the clamp shoes (big pins with the one end angled) go. Parts 43 and 42 on the diagram.  NES makes a tool that would work but it's around $60 IIRC.  I just had an idea. I'm going to get a 3/8-14 so it matches the pitch but is smaller than 7/16 and maybe I can somehow get the first two threads going again by working the 3/8 tap out while pressing the tap against the wall/threads. :thinking:
> 
> View attachment 50351



it's not going to hurt to tap partially into the smooth area..   I don't see how you can tap that far in, reaching the smooth area and still not have enough threads. The threaded hole must be wallered out and no longer be 7/16ths.


----------



## Splat

I love Helicoils!   Got my 7/16NC Helicoil kit and went to work yesterday on her. Had to meticulously hold the work in my drill press vise at an angle but took my time. First Helicoil that went in I had it down way too far so the clamp shoe could only go in about halfway. Got that one out and put another one in but not as far down the hole. Works perfectly now. Woohoo! Back in business!  hew:  So now the carriage is completely done and back on the lathe. Now the headstock is the only major thing left. Wish me luck guys, I'm going in.


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## ChuckB

Slack Check.. Let's see some progress!!


----------



## george wilson

The method of joining the belt is the standard way of doing it. Failing to have the necessary parts to do it yourself,drilled holes and naked copper wire about 12 gauge can be used to sew the ends of the belt together should you need to shorten or replace it. Put the suede side of the leather against the pulley. Cut shallow grooves in the belt on the pulley contact side to avoid hearing the clicking sound when the belt is rotating. Don't cut into the hair side. Most of the strength of the leather is on the hair side,so don't groove it. It doesn't matter of the copper wire is proud on the outside of the belt since it doesn't touch anything in rotating. Secure the end of the copper wire by twisting it together on the outside of the belting.

The alternative is to skive the belt and glue it together with hide glue. The liquid stuff is fine. Skive the belt to about 1 1/2" long angle. Getting the belt the correct length is trickier when skiving. Allow for shortening the belt 3" if you decide to skive 1 1/2" on each side.

I prefer to just sew it,as leather keeps stretching so much. The process has to be repeated.

You can also go to a rubber supply store and get a more modern material,like fabric impregnated with rubber belting. Sew it the same way.


----------



## Splat

Got the headstock apart. One "uh-oh" moment is she's missing the pipe plugs on the back bearing cap. The front ones are the same so I took one to Ace to find two more but no good. I misplaced my pitch gauge so I can't tell what it is exactly but it looks like 3/8-28 thread.  Can anyone confirm the thread or might have a pair of these plugs they wouldn't mind getting rid of?

OK...looking at my charts it appears it might be a 1/8-27 pipe plug....which is, ironically, what the part's called...a pipe plug.


----------



## ChuckB

Don't know if our lathes are the same and this is the right plug, but I took mine out.. more like a drain plug.. the one to the right in the rear for the backgear bearing is 5/16-24 .

EDIT------------ oh.. are you talking about the plugs behind the oil cups? My headstock is very crusty


----------



## woodtickgreg

I've probably got a couple extra's, pm me if you still need them.


----------



## Splat

Thanks guys. It turns out a regular pipe plug will fit. I guess it is 1/8-27tpi, tapered. I had an old brass plug in my toolchest and it fit perfectly. Gotta get to HomeDepot and get another. Crisis avoided. hew:


----------



## Splat

I tried Citristrip on the headstock and I'm pretty pleased with it. I found that more than one or two applications would be needed though so after two applications I started thinking about electrolysis. I had found a few references discouraging use of copper wires or copper anything within the solution. At first I did use 10ga copper wire to attach the charger's negative lead to the headstock in the solution. After a while I noticed some green debri floating around the top so I nixed the copper. I found a beat up shop light so I cannibalized its clamp and used that for the negative lead. Clamped it onto the headstock, checked connections again and juiced her up. Ideally I'd like to use a sheet  of metal wrapped about the whole tub or find a stainless tub on the  cheap but for a first run we'll see how it goes. I have some more big  old hex wrenches I may add into the soup. I can't wait to see what it looks like tomorrow. This is a pic before I switched out the copper wire attached to the headstock.    Hmmm.......Splatrolysis.   :rofl:


----------



## itsme_Bernie

george wilson said:


> Cut shallow grooves in the belt on the pulley contact side to avoid hearing the clicking sound when the belt is rotating. Don't cut into the hair side. Most of the strength of the leather is on the hair side,so don't groove it. It doesn't matter of the copper wire is proud on the outside of the belt since it doesn't touch anything in rotating. Secure the end of the copper wire by twisting it together on the outside of the belting.



Can you explain this grooving thing again George?  Are you saying to groove the smooth side, away from the pulley?  I do have the copper clamped around away from the pulley, and it still clicks.

Unless you are saying that grooving the soft side, toward the pulley, would raise the joint away?

Bernie




Bernie


----------



## itsme_Bernie

Wow Splat!

I would have been happy to help you if I knew you last year!  You drove right past me to go to Sussex. 

 I've moved mine down and up a hurricane door just like you described, and now into a garage.  I have a bench style, so only two enormously ha peavy parts  ..  But not the most awkward thing I moved- the worst was Hardinge TM mill- 960lbs one piece!  Hah.

You are inspiring me to go over mine and pretty it up- all I did was the spindle assembly when I first got mine, and I'm very happy I did.  Besides that I have only de-grunged as I went.

Did you acquire a new felt set on EBay as well?  The guy who sells the sets also has a good book on it. (Now that you're almost done!  Hah hah)


Bernie


----------



## Splat

itsme_Bernie said:


> I would have been happy to help you if I knew you last year!  You drove right past me to go to Sussex.
> I've moved mine down and up a hurricane door just like you described, and now into a garage.  I have a bench style, so only two enormously ha peavy parts  ..  But not the most awkward thing I moved- the worst was Hardinge TM mill- 960lbs one piece!  Hah. You are inspiring me to go over mine and pretty it up- all I did was the spindle assembly when I first got mine, and I'm very happy I did.  Besides that I have only de-grunged as I went. Did you acquire a new felt set on EBay as well?  The guy who sells the sets also has a good book on it. (Now that you're almost done!  Hah hah)



 Actually I did get the book and the felt set and I'm glad I did. At least you did the spindle but you really should go over everything if you can. When I first started this I was amazed how much swarf and gunk was everywhere inside the QCGB which was the first part I refurbished. If you can do the rest of your machine then besides knowing it inside and out you'll feel one helluva sense of accomplishment and pride in what you accomplished. It's not really that complicated, just time consuming. Just do it, man!


----------



## Splat

Electrolytic crap removal, electrolysis whatever you wanna call it, I love it! :thumbsup:   So I removed the headstock from its disgusting watery home for the past 22hours and "jawdrop:  ....what a beautiful site to see. A clean headstock looking back at me. So I dried her off with towels as quick as I could, then a quick once over with acetone on a towel and then into the basement bathroom....I mean paint booth.   The only frustrating part is forgetting to take darn pictures but I always bring the camera upstairs to get the shots off it and then leave it there so no updates shots at this time.  Now I have the back gear baking in a fresh tub. Can't wait to see how that comes out because the PO got some paint on it and there's some grease too. Come on baby, work your magic!  Splatrolysis!


----------



## woodtickgreg

Splat said:


> Actually I did get the book and the felt set and I'm glad I did. At least you did the spindle but you really should go over everything if you can. When I first started this I was amazed how much swarf and gunk was everywhere inside the QCGB which was the first part I refurbished. If you can do the rest of your machine then besides knowing it inside and out you'll feel one helluva sense of accomplishment and pride in what you accomplished. It's not really that complicated, just time consuming. Just do it, man!



+1 on all that.


----------



## itsme_Bernie

I absolutely will- but right now I am happy to get my machines all up and running again!  This week, tonight specifically, for the first time in four years (storage after divorce), I can say that I have all my machines powered, and can again take up the project of knocking the kinks out as I left off years ago...

I it is finally sinking in that I can get back to work!  8 ) 
I think I should update my "hello" post from January.


Bernie


----------



## ChuckB

woodtickgreg said:


> +1 on all that.



The book is great and we are fortanate that someone is selling just the right wick kit we need for our old lathes.  The only thing that scares me about the wicks, is did I do them right? And.. when I finally get my lathe done, are they doing their job? Kind of like the refrigerator light.. how do I know it's working when the door's closed?? :thinking:


But.. Even without the right lubrication, the apron will out last me. 
You go Splat!!


----------



## woodtickgreg

Splat, I sent you a pm about the shims. I gotta go back in the shop and work on a wood turners hollowing chisel for a customer, I'll check back later.
Greg


----------



## woodtickgreg

Tony, the shims are mailed, look for a padded envelope.
Greg


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## ScubaSteve

Not sure how I missed this thread! It's a little late, but I think the price you paid was quite fair....you could sell the 220v motor and recoup some money too!

The lathe looks to be in very nice condition....you probably could have gotten away without painting it eve, but I understand the "ritual" of going through it and making it yours...been there many times. 

Congrats on the new lathe!


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## Ulma Doctor

Looking good Splat!
keep the posts coming, we want details!:lmao:


----------



## itsme_Bernie

Hey Splat

How's it going?


Bernie


----------



## Splat

Hey Greg, Bernie, and everyone.  I've been away from the lathe for what seems like forever due to having to fix up my sister's house. It seems like when one thing goes and you get that fixed something else breaks .....the fun doesn't stop.   So last night I returned to my H10. I'm removing any extra paint on the headstock parts I might've got on where it doesn't belong.. Tonight I hope to get the headstock on and start piecing her back together. It feels good to be working on the lathe again. :thumbsup:


----------



## woodtickgreg

What...no pics? LOL


----------



## Splat

Pics?! What is this, Miss America Lathe pageant?!    j/k Actually, I did take some pics but they're on my phone and I'm too tired to go get it and u/l them. Tomorrow.  Well *G*-man, I got the end gear off the spindle finally. Used a 32mm socket that I milled down to about 1/2" height so I could get my gear puller over it and get the arms under the gear. The spindle's pretty clean, the insides of the cone and the bearings look good.

Greg (_and of course anyone else that'd care to chime in_), did you replace that thin metal washer that sits between the take-up nut and the rear expander with a thrust bearing? IIRC guys have done that but I don't know if that pertained to certain makes/years of the H10...


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## woodtickgreg

Glad you got her off. No I did not replace the washer, it was in good shape and I set the end play to .001 with an indicator. I have heard of guys doing the bearing upgrade and I think I would have had room for it as there is a gap between the take up nut and the gear, the bearing probably would have fit with the extra space left after centering the gear. And I don't want to hear any excuses about pics either.:worthless: LOL


----------



## george wilson

It's me Bernie: I said let the suede side of the belt run against the pulley. The suede side against the pulley is grooved a little to lift the copper wire away from the pulley so it doesn't click as the belt goes around. Do not groove the hair(smooth) side. That is where the strength of the leather is.


----------



## itsme_Bernie

george wilson said:


> It's me Bernie: I said let the suede side of the belt run against the pulley. The suede side against the pulley is grooved a little to lift the copper wire away from the pulley so it doesn't click as the belt goes around. Do not groove the hair(smooth) side. That is where the strength of the leather is.



Thanks George

I am in the process of finding some actual lard (as opposed to vegetable shortening) to treat this belt, as it has been slipping.  I read on a thread on PM that a warm mixture of 1 part cod liver oil to two parts lard to the contact side of the belt.  
I am surprised how hard it is to find the animal lard!  What, is the world on a health kick?  XD


----------



## george wilson

LARD???? I hope that works,bernie. I use a spray can of "Beltraction". Are you sure the lard wasn't intended to soften an old,dried out,cracking belt? I just can't imagine lard inducing traction.


----------



## ScrapMetal

I'm with George on this one.  I think the lard would just be for keeping the leather soft and prevent cracking.  If used on a belt I would expect it to make is more slippery not less.

-Ron


----------



## itsme_Bernie

george wilson said:


> LARD???? I hope that works,bernie. I use a spray can of "Beltraction". Are you sure the lard wasn't intended to soften an old,dried out,cracking belt? I just can't imagine lard inducing traction.



Thanks George

As illogical as it sounds, two different people posted this to make the leather more supple again, hopefully giving more grip.  
You are the first guy to suggest a product like that!  I will look it up now!
I have a urethane backed leather belt that really should be good once I can increase that actual grip

Thanks man!

Bernie

- - - Updated - - -

Not trying to hijack your thread Splat....


----------



## Splat

itsme_Bernie said:


> Thanks George
> 
> As illogical as it sounds, two different people posted this to make the leather more supple again, hopefully giving more grip.
> You are the first guy to suggest a product like that!  I will look it up now!
> I have a urethane backed leather belt that really should be good once I can increase that actual grip
> 
> Thanks man!
> 
> Bernie
> 
> - - - Updated - - -
> 
> Not trying to hijack your thread Splat....



I was gonna say....did I miss something here?   No worries. BTW, I looked up that Beltraction and can't find anyone selling it. MOF, from what I found it appears to not be made anymore....


----------



## ScrapMetal

If you finally decide to give up on your belt you can always contact Al Bino Machining & Custom Flat Belts  I've got one of his "poly nitrile laced belts" and am more than  happy with it.

-Ron


----------



## Splat

ScrapMetal said:


> If you finally decide to give up on your belt you can always contact Al Bino Machining & Custom Flat Belts  I've got one of his "poly nitrile laced belts" and am more than  happy with it.



Ron, did you ever consider or tried a serpentine belt?


----------



## ScrapMetal

Splat said:


> Ron, did you ever consider or tried a serpentine belt?



No, I never really saw a need to.  I liked using my old (1.5") leather belt and was not bothered by a slight "clink" sound when running. (Which can be fixed with a small piece of tape or something)  I've read quite a bit about the serpentines and have seen a lot of problems keeping them stitched together once cut to put on the lathe.  I didn't want to mess with adhesives or "experimenting" to see what would hold so basically looked to the original design. 

I went with the Al Bino belt due to my old leather one was slipping a little too much especially when I'm planning to put a higher HP motor on it.  The "laced" belt is just so convenient and "poly-nitrile" feeds my need for "higher performance".

I've nothing against the serpentines but this just seemed the simplest (Occam's Razor) solution.

-Ron


----------



## Splat

Ron, I saved Al Bino's link you put up in case I need a new belt. Thanks for posting about that.


Well guys, s-l-ooooo-w-l-y getting the headstock together. I was ready to put the spindle back into place but ran into a problem with the felt capillary oilers. I tried fitting a thin piece of wire into the top-most holes, as per the rebuild manual, but it won't go all the way thru. There doesn't appear to be a hole in the brass tubes. I can't figure how to hold the oilers down to get the spindle in place otherwise.... Anyone else had this problem?


----------



## woodtickgreg

Splat said:


> Ron, I saved Al Bino's link you put up in case I need a new belt. Thanks for posting about that.
> 
> 
> Well guys, s-l-ooooo-w-l-y getting the headstock together. I was ready to put the spindle back into place but ran into a problem with the felt capillary oilers. I tried fitting a thin piece of wire into the top-most holes, as per the rebuild manual, but it won't go all the way thru. There doesn't appear to be a hole in the brass tubes. I can't figure how to hold the oilers down to get the spindle in place otherwise.... Anyone else had this problem?


Look down the inside of the tube and see if the holes are there and maybe just misaligned. If the are there but don't match up I would just drill new holes and smooth the bore with a file rather than try and pull the tubes and risk damaging them.


----------



## Splat

woodtickgreg said:


> Look down the inside of the tube and see if the holes are there and maybe just misaligned. If the are there but don't match up I would just drill new holes and smooth the bore with a file rather than try and pull the tubes and risk damaging them.



I tried rotating the tubes but they wouldn't budge. Maybe just from years of sitting there. I believe I did look down the tubes to see if there were holes there but maybe I'm mistaken. Hoping to get'er done today. Drilling sounds like a viable idea if I can get them....but maybe I can drill them in place. Here we go....


----------



## Splat

Managed to get a piece of wire into the middle hole and into the felt to hold down while installing the spindle.

Now I'm messing with shims. I believe I'm doing this right. Tighten down the cap screws slightly, tighten the bearing expander screws a few turns just to ensure they're lined up, then tighten the cap screws all the way until they stop, then tighten the expander screws fully. With 0.015 and .002 I can barely turn the spindle by hand. I've gotta get a dial indicator in the next few days. I'm using my DTI but a DI would be easier to use and read in this instance.


----------



## woodtickgreg

Splat said:


> Managed to get a piece of wire into the middle hole and into the felt to hold down while installing the spindle.
> 
> Now I'm messing with shims. I believe I'm doing this right. Tighten down the cap screws slightly, tighten the bearing expander screws a few turns just to ensure they're lined up, then tighten the cap screws all the way until they stop, then tighten the expander screws fully. With 0.015 and .002 I can barely turn the spindle by hand. I've gotta get a dial indicator in the next few days. I'm using my DTI but a DI would be easier to use and read in this instance.


I don't think you have enough shims, start with about .020 to .025 and include a .0005 shim as well in the stack, use a bunch of the thinner shims to get the total so you can remove them a thou or 2 at a time. Then do a lift test to see how many thou of play there is and subtract that from the total stack thickness to determine how much to remove. the goal is between .0007 and .001 of play or as close as you can get to that mark and still be able to turn the spindle by hand easily. Take your time brother and do the lift test as many times as is needed to get it right, it's that important.


----------



## Splat

Spent all day on the spindle, then getting the rest of the parts back on. Hot as hell, even in the basement it was darn muggy. IIRC my shim stack is 0.017(right front) and 0.018(right back) at the chuck end and the same at the rear but opposing,  0.017(LB) and 0.018(LF). Picked up a Horrible Freight digital indicator and it drove me nuts because it's got a lug back. My DTI is dovetail and my Nogaflex is for dovetail so I had to rig up a support for the digi-indicator. I think that took longer than anything else! :banghead:  My spindle test results was around 0.0008 for the large bearing and around 0.001 for the smaller bearing. I'm happy with that. She doesn't spin easily by hand, but she does spin a little. Tomorrow I go into work early and then the rest of the day hopefully I'll complete what else needs to be done...  Put belt back on, level lathe, do the 2-collars test, make a 7/16" chuck key since I didn't get one with the lathe. I cannot believe it's been a year already and I'm finally (hopefully) getting to almost making chips. Have a good night gents.


----------



## woodtickgreg

Run it for awhile with it all oiled up, cups full, run it for about a half hour at varying speeds and put your hand on the bearing caps often to check and see if the caps are getting warm. The clearance is correct. Put a chuck on it and see if she spins freely.


----------



## Splat

Yo guys. Finally picked up a Gates 66" belt. Weird thing I measured my old leather belt and it's roughly 62.5" long. I cut the Gates and put her on the pulleys and pulled it tight and measured around 62.5". From what I've read my H10 with pedestal base should be about 61-7/8".  

FRIG!  I just noticed a crack on the right side of the cone mount. I didn't notice that before so I wonder if it was from me monkeying with the adjuster. Damn! :angry::angry:    Gotta clean it off and maybe a whole lot of JB Weld on it and underneath will hold it from going further.


----------



## woodtickgreg

Splat said:


> Yo guys. Finally picked up a Gates 66" belt. Weird thing I measured my old leather belt and it's roughly 62.5" long. I cut the Gates and put her on the pulleys and pulled it tight and measured around 62.5". From what I've read my H10 with pedestal base should be about 61-7/8".
> 
> FRIG!  I just noticed a crack on the right side of the cone mount. I didn't notice that before so I wonder if it was from me monkeying with the adjuster. Damn! :angry::angry:    Gotta clean it off and maybe a whole lot of JB Weld on it and underneath will hold it from going further.



Pics of that crack please! I don't think it was from "monkeying with the adjuster" it was probably already there and you just didn't see it until you tensioned it.


----------



## Splat

woodtickgreg said:


> Pics of that crack please! I don't think it was from "monkeying with the adjuster" it was probably already there and you just didn't see it until you tensioned it.



I was taking pics as you was typin' my friend.    Here it is, and I think you're probably right about it already being there.  I'm hoping after cleaning and with enough JB Weld slathered all over it it'll hold.


----------



## woodtickgreg

Funny.
Man that's a weird place for a crack, the good thing is it will close up when you tension it. I would wire wheel and clean with brake clean or acetone and go with the strongest jb weld like the one that takes 12 or 24 hours to cure. You will probably be ok with that because like I said it will close up when you tension it, coat both sides. I bet you could find one of those mounts cheap as it is not usually a part that fails. JB it and then take your time and look for someone that parts out lathes, bet they have a few laying around.


----------



## Splat

woodtickgreg said:


> Funny.
> Man that's a weird place for a crack, the good thing is it will close up when you tension it. I would wire wheel and clean with brake clean or acetone and go with the strongest jb weld like the one that takes 12 or 24 hours to cure. You will probably be ok with that because like I said it will close up when you tension it, coat both sides. I bet you could find one of those mounts cheap as it is not usually a part that fails. JB it and then take your time and look for someone that parts out lathes, bet they have a few laying around.



Yep, that's exactly what I did, Greg. Cleaned with Acetone, scrubbed with steel wool, cleaned again and wiped her down. I'm glad I bought the industrial sized JB Weld last year. I smothered the crack on top and bottom so we'll see what happens. Thought I would get the belt done tonight but I got a curve ball instead but   :allgood:.


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## Splat

Well, I didn't know the cone base was threaded for the adjusting rod that is attached to the swivel thing on the tensioner handle. I thought it was a non-threaded hole. I broke the rod right where it comes out from the bottom of the cone base. :angry:   "Don't work late on important stuff when you're tired! Don't work late on important stuff when you're tired!" Repeat again, and again......  :angry:  I should listen to my own darn preaching sometimes.  :*****slap2:   So now I have to figure out if I can still get the belt tight with the amount of rod left or ...and this is what I figure...  I'll have to replace the whole ball/socket/threaded rod.   Here's a shot of the part from Ryan's excellent refurbing site  (the text on the pic is his):


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## Splat

Well, I'm ok. I lost the bottom 1/4" off the flat belt adjusting rod but I've still got all the rest of it. I moved the mount almost all the way up. JB Welded the crack in the mount and it looks good. Hopefully tonight I'll get the Gates belt on, run the motor and spindle and check the bearings for warming. Then it'll be leveling the lathe and checking the tailstock for proper height. We're getting there!


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## Splat

Finally got the belt on and actually got the spindle turning. Checked all the controls on the headstock and apron and all appear to work as intended. :cool2:

After running her slowly for a while to ensure nothing was going to go flying I ran her high for 5 mins. Both bearing caps seemed to warm up a little but the caps for the expander screws on the big bearing cap got hot so I shut her down. I'll do another spindle lift test and see what's what. I may have to add a .0005 shim somewhere. Getting there.....


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## Splat

Well guys, I'm supremely PO'ed at myself. I crashed my compound into the chuck this morning.  Bent the leadscrew.   I ran the feed again towards the chuck to check for damage and, sure enough, now the compound wobbles to/away from the work about 1/16",  starting about 5" out all the way to the chuck. This sucks. Luckily the carriage and compound work fine but I'm so ticked at myself ....   I had to vent here guys. So now I gotta find a new leadscrew because I highly doubt I can get it aligned. Anyone got a leadscrew for a Heavy 10 with 3.5' bed?


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## woodtickgreg

Splat said:


> Well guys, I'm supremely PO'ed at myself. I crashed my compound into the chuck this morning.  Bent the leadscrew.   I ran the feed again towards the chuck to check for damage and, sure enough, now the compound wobbles to/away from the work about 1/16",  starting about 5" out all the way to the chuck. This sucks. Luckily the carriage and compound work fine but I'm so ticked at myself ....   I had to vent here guys. So now I gotta find a new leadscrew because I highly doubt I can get it aligned. Anyone got a leadscrew for a Heavy 10 with 3.5' bed?


Oh man that sucks. I thought I saw one on fleabay?


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## Splat

woodtickgreg said:


> Oh man that sucks. I thought I saw one on fleabay?



I saw one too but, and the seller's within 40mins of me, but he's got no clue what lathe the leadscrew's from. Judging by what he's telling me it may be the one I need. I'm going to take mine out of the lathe and bring it up there to match it.  I know some guys can bend/straighten these leadscrews but .... I may try that yet. I got nothing to lose now!


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## Vladymere

If the lead screw for sale is the same diameter and pitch but longer then you can cut it to the length you need.  You may have to turn the ends down to fit bushings or cut the ends off the original shaft and pin them to the new one.

Vlad


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## Rick Leslie

Just saw this thread. I try to read up on every Heavy 10 rebuild as mine is waaayyyyyy past due for a refurb. I was going to suggest Al Bino (yes that's his real name) for the flat belt. Got one for my horizontal B&S years ago and he's a great guy to deal with. On my Heavy 10, I went with the adjustable V belts. I think they're called 'link belt' or something. They're available for cheap and never wear out. And you can install/remove without taking the spindle out like you have to do with the serpentine belts. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACCU-Link-S...375508?hash=item5b26b45194:g:FK4AAOxyhodRweYR
Just a sample of the belt.


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## Bamban

Rick,

Is it a common practice to use link V belt on H10 instead of the flat belt? Did you have to modify any part of your H10 to use the link belt? I am curious as I am about to venture into rebuilding a H10.

Thank  you


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## Rodney Young

Splat said:


> I saw one too but, and the seller's within 40mins of me, but he's got no clue what lathe the leadscrew's from. Judging by what he's telling me it may be the one I need. I'm going to take mine out of the lathe and bring it up there to match it.  I know some guys can bend/straighten these leadscrews but .... I may try that yet. I got nothing to lose now!


Hey Splat,
 Any luck on the replacement lead screw? I would be hesitant to try to straighten and reuse the old one as no matter how close you get it to straight the screw will still be bent some what and place stress on the 1/2 nuts and may even cause slight issues if the machine is used for threading? I'm a newbie so take this with a grain of salt...as much a question I guess as a comment.


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## Rick Leslie

Bamban said:


> Rick,
> 
> Is it a common practice to use link V belt on H10 instead of the flat belt? Did you have to modify any part of your H10 to use the link belt? I am curious as I am about to venture into rebuilding a H10.
> 
> Thank  you



I've seen quite a few older machines designed for flat leather belts run the adjustable link belts. I run mine inverted, with the V facing outward. If you want originality, the Al Bino is the way to go. If you want unfailing reliability, get an adjustable link belt.


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## Bamban

Rick Leslie said:


> I've seen quite a few older machines designed for flat leather belts run the adjustable link belts. I run mine inverted, with the V facing outward. If you want originality, the Al Bino is the way to go. If you want unfailing reliability, get an adjustable link belt.



That is a great alternative to that flat belt. Do you double up on the link belt, or just one?

Thank you for the tip.


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## uncle harry

Rick Leslie said:


> I've seen quite a few older machines designed for flat leather belts run the adjustable link belts. I run mine inverted, with the V facing outward. If you want originality, the Al Bino is the way to go. If you want unfailing reliability, get an adjustable link belt.



*Fenner Drives* makes several special kinds of link belting for conveyor applications. They apply various surfaces to the smooth side of the links, Some of these belts have a friction surface that might work well as a flat belt alternative.


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## Rick Leslie

I just use one belt on mine. I think it is a 5/8" or 3/4" width, but I don't recall for sure. I bought it used for about $5.00 on ebay years ago. They are almost indestructible. 

I would look into the Fenner belts as well. Maybe a better substitute.


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## dlane

When I refurbished my 10L the link belt wouldn't clear the casting under headstock  "to thick"
I went with Al Bino green belt , ben working good.


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## Rick Leslie

Mine rubbed slightly. Now it works fine. But it's not pretty. Just works and I don't worry about it breaking.


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## Splat

Well guys I'm gonna sell the Heavy 10. After all the restoration work it kills me to do it but I have a G4003g i luckily found local that does what I need. I don't have the time, honestly nor the desire, to find another lead screw for the H10 and replace it after crashing it years ago. I'll be posting the Bison 3 jaw, a SB faceplate, a Jacobs 50 flex chuck, and maybe parting out the lathe on the For Sale section. It's time. Thanks.


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