# My ‘new’ Select 1/2V Milling Machine



## WEL0058

Well this is my first post in this forum.  Have been posting in the Clausing forum...

Bought my first mill this weekend which followed me home on Saturday. Been looking for a ‘A1S’ style milling machine for over a year now to complement my Clausing 100 mk 3 lathe.  A week ago this mill was only posted on Washington DC CL for 27 minutes when I found it. Contacted the seller immediately and she agree to give me first shot. The mill is a 1979 Select Machine Tool model 1/2V 7x30” knee mill made in Taiwan with a lot of tooling.

Bought a HF 1T shop crane and a HF 8T air/hydraulic jack. Modified with five foot 2” x 3/16” square tubing the extend the reach and height.  My brother and I drove up with his truck and small landscaping trailer.  Lifting the 900 lb mill and moving it to loading dock was no trouble.  Took an hour getting the mill down onto the trailer.  Bolted 2x4x6 boards to mill base and slide mill down 30 degree onto trailer.

The knee raises and lowers smoothly.  Lock all the travels and check for backlash with very little movement. Lead screws are adjustable split nuts. Forgot to take any pictures moving it.  Have the original owner manual with all recorded QC measurements and inspector stamps.  The document S/N match mill number.  The quality of this 40 year milling machine was definitely not targeted for the home hobbyist market.

It may be a month or two before I get around the mill.
Select Machine Tool, Model: 1/2V,  S/N:64620, MfgDate: 1979

*** Long term ToDo plan ***
1. Fab rolling base with casters and leveling pads
2. Remove/Clean: Bed, Saddle, Knee, Spindle?, Touch up paint
3. ?Convert to 1-Stroke Oiler?
4. Install 3 or 4-axis DRO TouchDRO
     -  Scales? Glass or magnetic. (I’m using iGaging Absolute+ on my lathe)
5. X-Axis PowerFeed. Servo(USA) or Align(TW)
6. Convert 1 HP 1P Motor to 1.5 or 2 HP 3P VFD
7. Column Riser Block?

*** Additional Tooling ***
1. Quality Kurt-style precision vise. 4” or 5”
2. Precision drill chuck
3. Quality Parallels Set 6” x 1/8”
4. 1/2” Clamping Set
5. Maybe another set of 123 blocks?
6. Indexer?

Does one know the actual manufacture is for the ‘Select’ milling machine?  Poa Chuan Machinery (TW),   Kao Fong (TW), ???

Bob G.


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## Aukai

OH, my neck, great score


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## ShagDog

Nice score. I wish I could find one of those as a companion to my Select Lathe.


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## WEL0058

ShagDog said:


> Nice score. I wish I could find one of those as a companion to my Select Lathe.


Shag,

Did not know of 'Select Machine Tool' exist until this mill came up on Craigslist.  While Googling 'Select' notice they also offered different imported lathe's.    SMT seem to want to offer a Taiwan-quality product back in 70's. Was surprised they where importing mills back in the 60's - the 'OB' model. 

Bob G.


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## ShagDog

Bob, I am in the same boat. Never heard of Select until I bought mine  a few months ago.


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## DavidR8

Sweet find with lots of tooling, well done!


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## WEL0058

Redirecting milling threads from my Clausing lathe 'My Clausing 100 Mk 3 Serial#5396' thread.



34_40 said:


> SCORE!   That is great!  With tooling to boot!  Good for you. Looks to be in good shape.
> Now the tunnel really opens up for you to fall in.  What's next DRO?  LOL.
> Ask me how I know!


Hi Mike,

A DRO would be on the short list after getting the mill cleaned up and back together.  Perfect opportunity using the mill to machine the brackets for DRO.    No more cave man mill with grinders, hand files and table saws.

Bob g.


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## WEL0058

ShagDog said:


> Bob, I am in the same boat. Never heard of Select until I bought mine  a few months ago.


So what do you feel about the quality of your lathe?  Did it have a hard life?  Do you have the original paper work/ manual?




DavidR8 said:


> Sweet find with lots of tooling, well done!


The tooling is what sealed the deal.

So what does everyone think this deal was worth?  Just curious.    I will go into details after hearing some quotes.


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## DavidR8

I live in a machinery desert so that would probably fetch $2-3K


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## ShagDog

WEL0058 said:


> So what do you feel about the quality of your lathe?  Did it have a hard life?  Do you have the original paper work/ manual?
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> ...



I think it is of very good quality. Don't think it had too hard a life. Ways are hardened, and the wear on them is not bad, as far as I can tell. I do have the original part list and an original brochure consisting of 1 page back and front. Wish I had the manual. I did have an issue with the gears on the spindle that was rectified; and  I am working on  what I hope is a minor issue with the QCGB. Here are some light reading   links to threads concerning my lathe on this forum.









						Select Lathe Model 816B
					

Have an opportunity to buy one of these lathes. Looks very tempting to me. Anyone familiar with this lathe, please comment on it.  Edit: I ended up buying the lathe. See update below.




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				












						Bronze Bushing and Steel Lube
					

I have a bronze bushing on my spindle cone pulley that was used to fix the end of the cone pulley that had worn on the inside diameter. The bushing is a tight fit inside the cone pulley that spins freely around the diameter of the lathe spindle. The bushing spins around the lathe spindle when...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				












						Chuck Weight?
					

I have a lathe that I bought used with an 8" swing and a 1 1/2-8 spindle. The chucks that came with it are 5"(3 jaw) and 6" (4 jaw). They are older chuck that are in the range of about 7 lbs and 9 lbs apiece. I purchased a new chinese 5" with a backplate I fit to it. The chuck is very nice in...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				












						Slotted Lead Screw Question
					

I have an older (1979?) Taiwan 8x16 lathe. It has one screw that drives the carriage. The screw is slotted. The cross feed is powered as you will see in the 2 levers in a photo. The other lever on right engages the half nuts.   I thought that the slot in the lead screw was to allow the carriage...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				












						Norton Style Gearbox Issue
					

I have a Select 816b lathe that has what appears to be a Norton style gear box. I have trouble with the 2 tumblers falling out of the holes when running at the faster feed speeds. No problem on the slower ones. The left one is more problematic, again, at higher speeds. The longitudinal feed and...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


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## Mitch Alsup

Looks a lot like a Grizzly G0730


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## WEL0058

Yes same family ‘A1S‘ and possible same Taiwan factory.  Mine was made in 1979 and basically a Grizzly G1004 equivalent.


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## parklandworks

WEL0058 said:


> Well this is my first post in this forum.  Have been posting in the Clausing forum...


This is my first entry to this forum, in fact I joined just so that I could respond to your posting.
What an awesome find, especially all the tooling and the manual!!
I recently got one of these mills, too. 
Mine came with one solitary 3/4" collet, and no paperwork. I've been hunting around the internet to see if I could find any useful documentation and I had just about given up and decided to get a manual for a Clausing 8520 instead, of which this seems to be a pretty close copy.
Is there any chance that you'd be willing to make and send me a copy of the manual? Please contact me directly, if you're willing.

Peter P.


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## kb58

WEL0058 said:


> The tooling is what sealed the deal.
> 
> So what does everyone think this deal was worth?  Just curious.    I will go into details after hearing some quotes.


About $240, how much did you pay?


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## Andrew R Stewart

This could be my 8x30 mill's brother. Mine has the Sampson "brand" on it. here's the thread I started a while ago for it https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/sampson-mill-aka-husky-grizzly-questions.76453/  I agree that they are a fairly well made unit. I'll watch thie thread and hope to learn more about this family of mills. Andy


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## WEL0058

Sorry to Peter not responding sooner.  Crazy time of the year.   Decided not to do any cleaning or restoration on the mill right now since it is still functional.  Will make a base with wheels to get into back corner of the shop next to my lathe.  May be next winter project.

I have just scanned in my original 'SELECT 1/2V Vertical Milling Machine' Service Manual (free...) and attach as a 40MB PDF.   I suggest everyone should also download the 'Grizzly G1004 Instruction Manual'.

Grizzly G1004 Instruction Manual

Grizzly still have some G1004 parts available which should be interchangeable with the Select 1/2V mill.  Item# in SELECT Service Manual matches Grizzly online parts list which is an 'A1S' style mill.

Grizzly G1004 Online Parts List

---- A few questions ----
1. Have not figured out how to get the fine spindle feed to work.  Not sure about the knurled knob on the left side.  Loosen but not sure some thing is suppose to slide?

2. Any recommend DRO scales to uses on this mill?

3. Will need to get a decent vise. Any suggestions?   Have been watching used Kurt D60, D601, D675 vises on eBay.

Thanks every one...

Bob G.


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## WEL0058

kb58 said:


> About $240, how much did you pay?


By the way, I paid $2500


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## parklandworks

WEL0058 said:


> Sorry to Peter not responding sooner.  Crazy time of the year.   Decided not to do any cleaning or restoration on the mill right now since it is still functional.  Will make a base with wheels to get into back corner of the shop next to my lathe.  May be next winter project.
> 
> I have just scanned in my original 'SELECT 1/2V Vertical Milling Machine' Service Manual (free...) and attach as a 40MB PDF.   I suggest everyone should also download the 'Grizzly G1004 Instruction Manual'.
> 
> Grizzly G1004 Instruction Manual
> 
> Grizzly still have some G1004 parts available which should be interchangeable with the Select 1/2V mill.  Item# in SELECT Service Manual matches Grizzly online parts list which is an 'A1S' style mill.
> 
> Grizzly G1004 Online Parts List
> 
> ---- A few questions ----
> 1. Have not figured out how to get the fine spindle feed to work.  Not sure about the knurled knob on the left side.  Loosen but not sure some thing is suppose to slide?
> 
> 2. Any recommend DRO scales to uses on this mill?
> 
> 3. Will need to get a decent vise. Any suggestions?   Have been watching used Kurt D60, D601, D675 vises on eBay.
> 
> Thanks every one...
> 
> Bob G.


Bob,
Thanks very much for the manual!

The thing I'm not finding in either the manual you shared or the grizzly one is a lubrication schedule or lubrication specifics for this Mill. I suppose, since all the similar mills I know of use sae 20, that sae 20 is the stuff I should use.  The grizzly has a one shot lube system, but this Mill (the "select") has individual oil cups instead of a one shot system.

I also intend to use my Mill as it is, unless a very brief once over shows major problems.  The only problem I've found so far is that the locating key for the R8 Collett seems to be broken off or missing.  I have some professional machinist friends; one tells me to replace the key before use, and the other days he'd remove it before use if it was still there.

There are as many different opinions as people with opinions.

--Peter


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## parklandworks

WEL0058 said:


> 1. Have not figured out how to get the fine spindle feed to work.  Not sure about the knurled knob on the left side.  Loosen but not sure some thing is suppose to slide?


What I figured out so far on my mail is that loosening that knurled knob to the point just before the spring inside pushes it off disengages that wheel on the front left which is the fine quill feed.  With the knob backed out like this, the quill lever on the right side should activate the quill just like a basic drill press. Tighten the knurled knob all the way by hand to engage the fine quill feed, which is that hand wheel on the front left above the quill.

Hope this helps. I can take a picture or a short video within the next couple of days if that is needed.

--Peter


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## WEL0058

Peter here is the link to the newer version of the same mill.  They just recommend ISO 68 weight oil which is 20W.  When I see something recommend 'ISO 68', I interpret this to be industrial hydraulic oil.   I think you will find more info you are looking for in this Grizzly manual.

Grizzly G0728 to G0731 Owners Manual

OK Peter - Got the down feed fine quill figured out.  When I unscrew the knurled clutch adjustment nut/knob (item 16) on the left side, the knob will unscrew all the way.  The threads of shaft are exposed.  I had lightly tap on the knob thinking the clutch may be sticking.  This time gave it stonger taps with plastic hammer and the clutch (item 15) popped off the quill pinion shaft (item 12).  It was too snug of a fit even after cleaning/oiling the shaft and bore.  The spring (item 50) will now pop the clutch out with a tap from the hammer. 

One thing I notice it would be good practice to move the quill handle back and forth while tighten the knurled knob to ensure the clutch teeth are full meshed together.

Thanks, Bob G.


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## parklandworks

Bob
That will do nicely. Thanks!
I'm glad you got your quill fine feed moving and engaging/disengaging.
I've got a new-to-me south bend 10k lathe that i got at the same time as this Mill, and i have other things going on in my life too, so i probably won't really make the Mill functional for a couple months, but I'm very much looking forward to first chips with this tool.
I look forward to reading about your progress.
Thanks for the documents!
--Peter


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## Aaron_W

WEL0058 said:


> 3. Will need to get a decent vise. Any suggestions?   Have been watching used Kurt D60, D601, D675 vises on eBay.



Mills this size work well with a 4" vise. I have a Clausing 8520 which seems to be the same market that these were going for, and they have a passing resemblance. I have a 5" Kurt style vise that I got with the mill. It works but is too large to get full travel of the table. I bought a 4" Glacern vise which I feel is a better fit. Glacern is cheaper than Kurt but seems to be a good quality vise. Currently $399 but they do have sales, as well as occasionally offering free shipping which on something heavy like a vise is a decent savings as well. 

Precision Matthews also has some vices that would fit these, the Homge brand is good quality, I think made in Taiwan. Shars and Little Machine shop have some cheaper Kurt style milling vises that generally get decent reviews.

Glacern milling vises

PM Homge 4" vise


This will give you some idea of the difference in size between a 4" and 5" vise on a mill of about the same size as yours. The 4" sits flush with the front when in the rear T slot, the 5" has an overhang of about 1-1/2" which cuts significantly into the travel towards the column.









As far as the price you paid, that seems about right looking at the tooling it came with. I've seen the small Rockwell and Clausing mills asking $2500 with little or no tooling and the ads are usually gone in 48-72 hours.


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## WEL0058

Aaron -  thank you so much for the feedback.  I knew I had to do something better than the vice that came with the mill.  
Your picture made it better to understand the issue would be with an 6".  Can see with the Glacern vice, the jaws can also be mount on the outside for wider work.

I am also looking at getting an 3/4" endmill tool holder for starts since most of tooling are 3/4 shank with the flat spot.

I really luck out finding this mill.  I was just randomly using SearchTempest when I found this 20 minute old post on Craiglist for the mill an hour away.  I immediately contact the poster for more information.  A few hours later, she said there where 10 other people interested but I had first bid at asking price.   No buyer's remorse -  this mill should be the only one I will need.  Glad did not jump on any of the mini-mills or the HF Chinese 'A1S' version which was selling for the same price as this mill without tooling.

Bob G.


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## Aaron_W

WEL0058 said:


> Aaron -  thank you so much for the feedback.  I knew I had to do something better than the vice that came with the mill.
> Your picture made it better to understand the issue would be with an 6".  Can see with the Glacern vice, the jaws can also be mount on the outside for wider work.
> 
> I am also looking at getting an 3/4" endmill tool holder for starts since most of tooling are 3/4 shank with the flat spot.
> 
> I really luck out finding this mill.  I was just randomly using SearchTempest when I found this 20 minute old post on Craiglist for the mill an hour away.  I immediately contact the poster for more information.  A few hours later, she said there where 10 other people interested but I had first bid at asking price.   No buyer's remorse -  this mill should be the only one I will need.  Glad did not jump on any of the mini-mills or the HF Chinese 'A1S' version which was selling for the same price as this mill without tooling.
> 
> Bob G.



Yeah a 6" would be way too big. 

Yours should be a capable mill, just remember to take it easy, it is not a 2000lb Bridgeport. It is fairly common to find these smaller mills with damaged spindles and spindle feeds as they don't do well with King Kong operators. I think you will find it is a big step up from a mini-mill.


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## wrenchguyrich

Bob, thanks for the manual upload. I bought my Select 1/2V last summer. Paid 1500 for it, no tooling. Reasonable price  for the PNW machinery desert. Nice mill.
I was fortunate to obtain 2 junk Lincoln 180c welders from work, and with some parts and labor got them both working. The best part is my twin brother traded me all kinds of mill tooling for one of the welders. He's been in the trade 40 years and has acquired so much stuff, he'll never use it.


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## WEL0058

Wrench - You're welcome.  Did not think your area was a machinery desert with aerospace activities.

I still have not played with the mill.  Too many other things going on.  

I did move the mill from the shop roll up door to a semi-permanent location.  Under estimated how much floor space this style mill uses.  It sticks out about 45".   Thinking if a corner location would be better.

On eBay, have bought a "HFS(R) 52 Pcs 9/16" Slot 1/2"-13 Stud Hold Down Clamp Set"  and a used 1/8 x 6" hardened steel parallel set.  Looking at a used Kurt D40 vise for $370


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## wrenchguyrich

Bob - Desert, well perhaps I have unrealistic expectations. Boeing and all nearby, I suspect small gear like you or I would want isn't something they are going to have a lot of. Friend of mine has a shop near here, does a lot of contract work for Boeing, all nc.  It seems like there is more used nc gear for sale on CL than anything else around here. Having said that, there was an older version Select mill on CL in Bremerton last week for 750, ad was up for 2 days. I would say definitely there are more small lathes for sale than small mills. Of course small lathes have been manufactured for many more years than small mills. Now I'm rambling. 

Been looking for a used 4" Kurt vise locally. Never seen one, lots of 6" on CL here. Bought a cheapy on EB for now.

First project. 2.5" 5 insert sandvik face mill. 0.030" doc, 750 rpm, 11 cuts, probably 1.5 hours. Cutting speed seems low but much noisier if I sped it up. Have 1hp w/inverter so speed changes easy. I was amazed how once cutter was fully onto work, how quiet it was.


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## wrenchguyrich

The seller of my Select mill figured it weighed around 600 lbs, ok says I, it shouldn't be too much trouble to get it into the man shed. Well took it to work initially and weighed it, surprise, see picture.  In any event its still at my place of employment, and currently I'm off on medical leave. Sure miss having the mill at home. Was in the process of putting in a fwd rvs switch, when I found a 1 hp 3 ph motor 4 to 1 invertor duty for 42.00.

Decided to rebearing the oem motor as they were 40 years old. Noisy? No, just cheap insurance. Got some SKF replacements off EB. Found wiring into start switch insulation kind of sketchy, so rewired that as well. I was a bit surprised that all the threads on the motor were SAE, mill too looks like.
A side note, there is a 10/24 screw in armature shaft for the start switch on the oem motor. If a F/R switch is installed, the screw may come undone in reverse.


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## Aaron_W

wrenchguyrich said:


> The seller of my Select mill figured it weighed around 600 lbs, ok says I, it shouldn't be too much trouble to get it into the man shed. Well took it to work initially and weighed it, surprise, see picture.



How big is the table on this mill? I had assumed these were basically the same as the 6x26" Grizzly G0729, but if if is 900lbs then I'm guessing it is larger and probably similar to one of their 8x30 mills. 



wrenchguyrich said:


> Been looking for a used 4" Kurt vise locally. Never seen one, lots of 6" on CL here. Bought a cheapy on EB for now.



The 4" Kurts are not very common and often cost more than a 6". I had been looking for a while to get one for my mill, and finally decided to go for the Glacern since new it was still cheaper than what I saw many trying to get for a used 4" Kurt.


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## wrenchguyrich

Aaron - Manual says 7 x 30, I think that's right, not in a position to confirm currently.

Rich


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## WEL0058

wrenchguyrich said:


> Aaron - Manual says 7 x 30, I think that's right, not in a position to confirm currently.
> 
> Rich


Rich - that is correct. The machined surface measures out to 7 x 30".  Would have been nice if 8x30 but not complaining since it is not a 6x26" like the HF and some of the Grizzly versions.  In my search for the 'A1S' style mills, these early mills made in the 60's had the 6x26" tables.  Found that Select was selling these mills as early as mid 60's.  


Aaron_W said:


> The 4" Kurts are not very common and often cost more than a 6". I had been looking for a while to get one for my mill, and finally decided to go for the Glacern since new it was still cheaper than what I saw many trying to get for a used 4" Kurt.



Aaron I did looked the Glacern 4" vises but seems to be all most the price of the Kurts.  What did you pay for your vise and when?   Wonder what my shipping would cost to the east coast.


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## WEL0058

wrenchguyrich said:


> Bob - Desert, well perhaps I have unrealistic expectations. Boeing and all nearby, I suspect small gear like you or I would want isn't something they are going to have a lot of. Friend of mine has a shop near here, does a lot of contract work for Boeing, all nc.  It seems like there is more used nc gear for sale on CL than anything else around here. Having said that, there was an older version Select mill on CL in Bremerton last week for 750, ad was up for 2 days. I would say definitely there are more small lathes for sale than small mills. Of course small lathes have been manufactured for many more years than small mills. Now I'm rambling.
> 
> Been looking for a used 4" Kurt vise locally. Never seen one, lots of 6" on CL here. Bought a cheapy on EB for now.
> 
> First project. 2.5" 5 insert sandvik face mill. 0.030" doc, 750 rpm, 11 cuts, probably 1.5 hours. Cutting speed seems low but much noisier if I sped it up. Have 1hp w/inverter so speed changes easy. I was amazed how once cutter was fully onto work, how quiet it was.


Rich,  

I do not know about you but when I drive down the road, always wondering what may sitting in old buildings and barns that have been forgotten.  Your mill looks to be in great shape.  The paint looks great and it does not have to much bondo  showing.

Great first project.  Always want a piece of rail to make an anvil.  Where did you source that rail?  Hope you lift it off an existing track! lol.


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## Aaron_W

WEL0058 said:


> Rich - that is correct. The machined surface measures out to 7 x 30".  Would have been nice if 8x30 but not complaining since it is not a 6x26" like the HF and some of the Grizzly versions.  In my search for the 'A1S' style mills, these early mills made in the 60's had the 6x26" tables.  Found that Select was selling these mills as early as mid 60's.
> 
> 
> Aaron I did looked the Glacern 4" vises but seems to be all most the price of the Kurts.  What did you pay for your vise and when?   Wonder what my shipping would cost to the east coast.



I got mine last summer, it was on sale for $329 and they had a free shipping deal going as well which probably saved me another $40-50.

Best price I've found on a 4" Kurt was $509, and a lot of the used ones I saw on ebay were $350-400 unless they were really rough looking. 4" vises are just way less popular than 6".


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## Aaron_W

Precision Matthews sells a 4" Homge vise for $269, which is about 1/2 the price of a Kurt. 

I have a Homge 6" Rotary table which is made in Taiwan and quite nice. PM doesn't show where the vise is made, but I think Homge is a Taiwan company. 

They also make a 5" and 6", so you might check with some of the PM mill owners and see if any have this brand of vise and get their opinion of it. 

PM 4" Homge vise.


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## Mitch Alsup

wrenchguyrich said:


> Aaron - Manual says 7 x 30, I think that's right, not in a position to confirm currently.



Except for the missing end pieces on the table, it looks like my G0730.


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## wrenchguyrich

> I do not know about you but when I drive down the road, always wondering what may sitting in old buildings and barns that have been forgotten.


Bob, the stuff dreams are made of. Between pristine machine tools and vintage tin.

Got the rail from a guy at work. 136 lb. He scored 2 - 40' sections from the refinery nearby where we have a laydown yard for some project at his home. He didn't need his "short" pieces anymore. He drives the semi so handling 40' anything isn't an issue for him. I wasn't going to go the full anvil route. I just wanted something really solid to beat on. Going to mc one side so I have a sharp corner.

I've noticed quite a variety of quill diameters in among this huge family of small mills. The Select as I recall measured just over 3" which isn't far behind the BP 3.375" I believe. I was quite impressed with how well my mill handled the railroad track. Not the easiest material by any means.


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## WEL0058

Happy 4th to everyone. It been awhile since last post.  

I purchase a used Kurt D40 vise on eBay for $349 which included free shipping.  The vise is in very good condition but the jaws are mismatched.  Was going to purchase a Glacern 4” vise for $388 but shipping was additional $92. Ouch.  Since I am a novice regarding milling, the used D40 should be good enough.

  Bought today a set of new old stock harden vise jaws.


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## WEL0058

Well it has been a while.  I have a few simple mill jobs to do so focus back on the mill to use it.  It really in great shape for a 50 year old machine after you clean the grime off it.   Started first reconditioning the Kurt D40 vice.   Amazingly simple design.  Unfortunately the top of movable jaw has a lot of ding marks.

Just finished cleaning the mill bed, saddle and knee.   A lot of elbow grease and hours later, can now see reflection off the mill bed and all the ways look great!  Only noticeably sloop is the belt idler arm pivot.

Any idea for covering the expose front ‘Y’ ways while milling?

Had to lightly file high spots dings in the mill bed.  The vise will now float along the bed.  I see many people using ‘sharping  stone’ touch these precision surfaces.   Can someone make recommendation and attach a link?  Not sure what to purchase.  I deal a lot with McMaster.

Also looking at the “Shop Fox“ D2058A Heavy-Duty Mobile Base which is rated for 1300 lbs to mount the mill on.  Any one uses these mobile bases?


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## brino

WEL0058 said:


> Any idea for covering the expose front ‘Y’ ways while milling?



I see many people using the running belts from treadmills after they remove the motors to power the equipment.
I'm sure hot chips will melt into them, but they (along with the motors and controllers) are basically free for the price of hauling these well intentioned machines that have become laundry racks out of other peoples basements.

I have saved a few myself, but have not yet installed them.



WEL0058 said:


> Had to lightly file high spots dings in the lathe bed. The vise will float along the bed. I see many people using ‘sharping stone’ touch these precision surfaces. Can someone make recommendation and attach a link? Not sure what to purchase. I deal a lot with McMaster.



I believe the fear is that with a file you could actually cut grooves if not careful.
With a sharpening stone, the surface area is much greater and the cutting ability likely less aggresive, so that you end up with a good average by only removing the high spots like dings.

The real beauty is that they need not be expensive:
https://www.mcmaster.com/arkansas-stones/shape~rectangle/

-brino


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## Aukai

See if these have a good review.








						Precision Ground Flat Stones, Diamond Ground Tool Room Stones  | eBay
					

Compare the before and after grinding photos. Thick edge and ends unfinished. Can be used to dress flat machined surfaces like larger precision ground flat stones but are more versatile - the slim tapered shape also fits into tight corners and under edges.



					www.ebay.com


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## WEL0058

Well I went with this 4 Piece Sharpening 600 and 800 grit Stone Set,

https://www.mcmaster.com/4804A12

Last few days focus on spindle assembly, drive belt and electrical wiring.  Problem with belt swivel arm slop was the arm seized to the swivel stud and was rotating in the belt housing thread.  Was able to unseized the arm from the stud. Locktite the stud to the belt housing and greased the stud.

Yesterday finished up the electrical wiring when my wife came out to the shop to see the progress on the mill.  Decide to go head and test the mill before tramming the bed to spindle since my first project was not critical.

First project is just milling a flat spot on a piece of mechanical tubing to install a grease zerk to use as a bushing for top link on my King Kutter rotary mower.  Used a 1/2” four flute HSS bit secured with R8 collet in the spindle.  Adjust the belts for 800 rpm spindle speed which will rotate the bit at about 100 feet per minute.  Eased the knee up to bottom of bit. 

Back the vise back and raised the knee up another 0.030” for initial DOC then turn on the motor.  Crank Y-axis eased the bushing into the bit slowly feeding listening and watching the chips.  Crank X-axis for a second pass then crank Y-axis back. Repeat for a third pass. 

Stop the mill to examine my first time milling.  Impress at the finish of the milling.  Obvious the bed is not perfectly squared to the spindle.  The milled surface is slight tapered.

Raised the knee for next 0.050“DOC and repeat three passes again.

Backed Y-axis out and swapped the collet/bit for the R8 drill chuck with 11/32” drill bit for the 1/8” NPT tap.  Chuck the tap and start tap with slight down pressure on the quill while rocking spindle back/forth by hand.  Once had tap establish, uncheck the tap from the chuck and resume with the tap handle.  (Shy of power tapping - discover last night    you can jog the ’ON’ button).

Wow my first milling job was so natural without any problems.  Thanks to today’s technology and the experts willing to share their knowledge.
A year ago, I knew what a milling machine is and it’s capability but did not know  the details and nuances involved.

Thank you,  Bob G.


----------



## WEL0058

Notice today that the Harbor Freight‘s ‘A1S’ style knee milling machine #40939 is now selling for $2,500.  Back in the begin of the year, it was sell for $1,900


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## Aaron_W

WEL0058 said:


> Notice today that the Harbor Freight‘s ‘A1S’ style knee milling machine #40939 is now selling for $2,500.  Back in the begin of the year, it was sell for $1,900



They were only about $1600 a few years ago, when I was shopping for a mill.  

Nice work on your mill, I've not done nearly as much with mine as I'd like but a milling machine is definitely a handy tool to have around.


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## brino

WEL0058 said:


> Wow my first milling job was so natural without any problems. Thanks to today’s technology and the experts willing to share their knowledge.
> A year ago, I knew what a milling machine is and it’s capability but did not know the details and nuances involved.



Awesome job Bob.
Very well done!

-brino


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## Weldingrod1

Here's how I did mine the second time around! I used the guts of a rolling shutter with the dogs taken out. I used fiberglass cloth with diluted silicone caulk squeeged into it. The previous generation was the same cloth but with plasti-dip on it.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## WEL0058

Thanks Bruno

Rod - Interesting setup.  What mill do you have?


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## WEL0058

Well this putting some time in on mill at night.  Stone the high spots on the mill bed and finished removing the remaining grime.

Start measuring and adjusting the mill.  First checked out the spindle with .0001” DTI - could not detect any round out or play in the bearings.  Next checked the X, Y and Z axis.  Detected no noticeable play in the X and Z ways.  The Y axis had .004“ movement but was able to snug up the gibs.

Tram the the mill bed and found the X axis was out by .028” between the two DI.  The head rotation scale was not align exactly with zero mark.  I notice this when end mill the flat spot on the bushing.  Tram the Y axis and was out about .002”.  Want to get X axis close to zero then recheck Y again.


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## WEL0058

To parallel the mill bed to spindle along the X axis, loosen up the four head rotation nuts.  Bump and tighten the nuts about dozen times to get the two DI within less than .0005”.

Rotated the spindle square 90 degree and checked the Y axis for spindle squareness. Y axis was out about .0005”.  Just to see, placed a very piece of aluminum under the one DI and it zeroed it out.

Next going to try running a sled along mill bed then mount the Kurt vice and DTI it.

I am really happy with the condition of this 40+ year old mill.  Am I missing anything?


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## WEL0058

Mounted the 4” Kurt vice and tram it.  Threads on my 11” drawbar was worn down enough to not hold my collet.  Replaced with a new 12” drawbar from Grizzly.  

Had a 2” x 1” steel puck after used a hole saw a 1” plate for my press.  Have been using it at work as a paper weight.  Perfect piece of steel to practice with after having the mill dialed in.  Used a 3/4” collet and roughen endmill bit at 800 rpm.  Tried different Depth Of Cut 10,20,30,40,50.  Faced milled one side and on the side cut a .050” DOC slot  through center.  Made on to many turn of the X axis so over shot center by .200”. Had some chatter so oil last cuts.  Did a fast mic when finished and looks like thickness within .001” 

Very happy with the results so far.  See need to keep better track of cranking the axis…


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## agshooter

WEL0058 said:


> Wow my first milling job was so natural without any problems.  Thanks to today’s technology and the experts willing to share their knowledge.
> A year ago, I knew what a milling machine is and it’s capability but did not know  the details and nuances involved.
> 
> Thank you,  Bob G.


Bob,
If you don't mind, can you tell me what the overall footprint of the mill is? From back wall to front handle and how much side to side room you need? I am looking at one of these and trying to see if/where it would fit in my shop. 
Thanks!


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## WEL0058

Sorry Not getting back sooner It’s been of week.  Here is measurements you are looking for. 

From the wall to tips of front Y-axis handle is about 45”
With X-axis crank all the to right is about 33.5” and to the left also about 33.5”
With belt cover open it is about 72” to highest point with bottom of my base is off floor by 1”.  Using a Shop Fox rolling base from Grizzly.
You might add another 1 to 2” for removing the drawbar.

Hope this helps you out.  I have small floor space location next to my lathe.  The mill was going to stick out about 18” past the lathe.  Decide to locate it on the other side of the lathe in a corner.  This should work out OK.

Got this mill off CL back in March down the road from you in Tyson Corners next to Tesla car dealership.

Bob G.


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## WEL0058

Question:  I now have a Carboloy R220.69-2.00-16 2" Face Mill with set of ISCAR inserts.  Next tooling looking for set of collets to use with hex and square collet holders.  Looking at either ER40 or 5C collets.  For someone who has neither of these collet types, which is the best to standardized with?  Right now do not see using in spindle - just for holding work in place.


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## WEL0058

Just to update. I just purchased 3x Easson 1um glass scales (GS11 250mm/600mm and GS31 400mm) glass scales from DroPro on eBay at less than 1/2 price they use to list for on their website.   Waiting for them to ship.  Seems they are focus totally on the magnetic scales now.

Will focus on getting DRO installed with what time I have available.


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## vintageiron

I have a very similar machine, mine was bought from MSC in the late 80's. Yours is the first one I've seen that is so close to the one I've got. 
Mine was acquired from the bankrupcy sale of a local factory, they had a dozen of them, plus several new machines in storage as spares. 
I bought one of the new machines in 1991. The date of the invoice from MSC on mine was 1987, they paid $1220 for it brand new.. 
I bought it then to fly cut VW cylinder heads but its not seen much use over the years. I've done mostly bulk drilling operations with it over the years but its pretty much still a new machine. 
I weighed mine when we loaded it at the sale, the dock scale there said 1,071 lbs with the shipping pallet still bolted to the bottom. 

I don't use it very much these days but have kept it around for the convenience. 
I've been knocking around the idea of trying to get it in my basement where it would get more use. Its either that or sell it and buy a smaller machine that's easier to move around. Right now mine is set up in a corner, the goal was to save space. 

Mine came with a rotor type switch on the left side, the switch is shallow and fits into a recess in the casting just slightly higher than the switch on yours. The color looks the same, the belt chart looks the same, and the base looks the same. 

My motor is different, it never had a rubber flap behind the table but its got felt wipers on the ways. I have mine mounted on machine pads. 
I think the table on mine is a bit larger, I have a pair of old Bridgeport 6" vises mounted on the table, and still have more than half the table to work with other items. 

Tooling wise, other than a large set of R8 collets, a larger drill chuck, and two fly cutter heads I never bought much for it.


----------



## Tbone

WEL0058 said:


> Well this is my first post in this forum.  Have been posting in the Clausing forum...
> 
> Bought my first mill this weekend which followed me home on Saturday. Been looking for a ‘A1S’ style milling machine for over a year now to complement my Clausing 100 mk 3 lathe.  A week ago this mill was only posted on Washington DC CL for 27 minutes when I found it. Contacted the seller immediately and she agree to give me first shot. The mill is a 1979 Select Machine Tool model 1/2V 7x30” knee mill made in Taiwan with a lot of tooling.
> 
> Bought a HF 1T shop crane and a HF 8T air/hydraulic jack. Modified with five foot 2” x 3/16” square tubing the extend the reach and height.  My brother and I drove up with his truck and small landscaping trailer.  Lifting the 900 lb mill and moving it to loading dock was no trouble.  Took an hour getting the mill down onto the trailer.  Bolted 2x4x6 boards to mill base and slide mill down 30 degree onto trailer.
> 
> The knee raises and lowers smoothly.  Lock all the travels and check for backlash with very little movement. Lead screws are adjustable split nuts. Forgot to take any pictures moving it.  Have the original owner manual with all recorded QC measurements and inspector stamps.  The document S/N match mill number.  The quality of this 40 year milling machine was definitely not targeted for the home hobbyist market.
> 
> It may be a month or two before I get around the mill.
> Select Machine Tool, Model: 1/2V,  S/N:64620, MfgDate: 1979
> 
> *** Long term ToDo plan ***
> 1. Fab rolling base with casters and leveling pads
> 2. Remove/Clean: Bed, Saddle, Knee, Spindle?, Touch up paint
> 3. ?Convert to 1-Stroke Oiler?
> 4. Install 3 or 4-axis DRO TouchDRO
> -  Scales? Glass or magnetic. (I’m using iGaging Absolute+ on my lathe)
> 5. X-Axis PowerFeed. Servo(USA) or Align(TW)
> 6. Convert 1 HP 1P Motor to 1.5 or 2 HP 3P VFD
> 7. Column Riser Block?
> 
> *** Additional Tooling ***
> 1. Quality Kurt-style precision vise. 4” or 5”
> 2. Precision drill chuck
> 3. Quality Parallels Set 6” x 1/8”
> 4. 1/2” Clamping Set
> 5. Maybe another set of 123 blocks?
> 6. Indexer?
> 
> Does one know the actual manufacture is for the ‘Select’ milling machine?  Poa Chuan Machinery (TW),   Kao Fong (TW), ???
> 
> Bob G.


picking up the 1977 model of this machine on Friday. its in pristine shape with some tooling . with the manual. would like to do all the things on your list as well. how many things have you completed ? Tony


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## Tbone

WEL0058 said:


> Well this is my first post in this forum.  Have been posting in the Clausing forum...
> 
> Bought my first mill this weekend which followed me home on Saturday. Been looking for a ‘A1S’ style milling machine for over a year now to complement my Clausing 100 mk 3 lathe.  A week ago this mill was only posted on Washington DC CL for 27 minutes when I found it. Contacted the seller immediately and she agree to give me first shot. The mill is a 1979 Select Machine Tool model 1/2V 7x30” knee mill made in Taiwan with a lot of tooling.
> 
> Bought a HF 1T shop crane and a HF 8T air/hydraulic jack. Modified with five foot 2” x 3/16” square tubing the extend the reach and height.  My brother and I drove up with his truck and small landscaping trailer.  Lifting the 900 lb mill and moving it to loading dock was no trouble.  Took an hour getting the mill down onto the trailer.  Bolted 2x4x6 boards to mill base and slide mill down 30 degree onto trailer.
> 
> The knee raises and lowers smoothly.  Lock all the travels and check for backlash with very little movement. Lead screws are adjustable split nuts. Forgot to take any pictures moving it.  Have the original owner manual with all recorded QC measurements and inspector stamps.  The document S/N match mill number.  The quality of this 40 year milling machine was definitely not targeted for the home hobbyist market.
> 
> It may be a month or two before I get around the mill.
> Select Machine Tool, Model: 1/2V,  S/N:64620, MfgDate: 1979
> 
> *** Long term ToDo plan ***
> 1. Fab rolling base with casters and leveling pads
> 2. Remove/Clean: Bed, Saddle, Knee, Spindle?, Touch up paint
> 3. ?Convert to 1-Stroke Oiler?
> 4. Install 3 or 4-axis DRO TouchDRO
> -  Scales? Glass or magnetic. (I’m using iGaging Absolute+ on my lathe)
> 5. X-Axis PowerFeed. Servo(USA) or Align(TW)
> 6. Convert 1 HP 1P Motor to 1.5 or 2 HP 3P VFD
> 7. Column Riser Block?
> 
> *** Additional Tooling ***
> 1. Quality Kurt-style precision vise. 4” or 5”
> 2. Precision drill chuck
> 3. Quality Parallels Set 6” x 1/8”
> 4. 1/2” Clamping Set
> 5. Maybe another set of 123 blocks?
> 6. Indexer?
> 
> Does one know the actual manufacture is for the ‘Select’ milling machine?  Poa Chuan Machinery (TW),   Kao Fong (TW), ???
> 
> Bob G.


Hi Bob
Just got mine yesterday. want to install a DRO, hope you got one so I can pick your brain.
thanks
Tony


----------



## WEL0058

Hi Tony,

That is one nice looking 1/2V mill you got there.   I like the way PO mounted the drum switch.  Much easier to turn Off/On the mill instead of the original push button switch mounted on left side of the column.  Also you have both shelves mounted on back of column.  I have the smaller shelve but no threaded hole to attach it.  Guess supplied but owner decide were to mount.  By the way welcome aboard.

Well sorry not post much this year.  This winter was mostly working on my Clausing lathe.

Past year or so ( how time flies by), I have purchase most of major components on my wish list.  1.5 3P motor, X-axis power feed, 3 axis Eason glass scales plus additional tooling.

My priority was the DRO but decide to mount power feed first so no interference when deciding on mounting the Y-axis scale.  Have looked dozens of different ways to install the scales.  Have decided to mount X-axis in front - more work but did not want to loss another 1” of Y-axis travel if mounted behind.  Also tying the Y bracket to mount the Z reader.

The power feed and DRO will be my next fall/winter projects.  Bought a rolling base from Grizzly, built Yuri DRO and test Eason scales.


----------



## Tbone

thanks
I totally agree with the front install with the limited Yx  . what size in mm did you buy for the 3 xes . think i have the x figured out mounting wise, Y not so much. mine is a extra nice machine i got from a great family, call him Hank


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## WEL0058

Tbone said:


> thanks
> I totally agree with the front install with the limited Yx  . what size in mm did you buy for the 3 xes . think i have the x figured out mounting wise, Y not so much. mine is a extra nice machine i got from a great family, call him Hank


Here you go Tony,

X   600mm Easson GS11,  1um resolution

Y  250mm  Easson GS11,  1um resolution

Z 400mm  Easson GS31,  1um resolution (Slim)


----------



## Tbone

WEL0058 said:


> Here you go Tony,
> 
> X   600mm Easson GS11,  1um resolution
> 
> Y  250mm  Easson GS11,  1um resolution
> 
> Z 400mm  Easson GS31,  1um resolution (Slim)


got Hank installed in his new home, and Starrett 98 leveled, made some leveling feet to raise it up some, a little short for me


----------



## Seeker2b

WEL0058 said:


> Well this is my first post in this forum.  Have been posting in the Clausing forum...
> 
> Bought my first mill this weekend which followed me home on Saturday. Been looking for a ‘A1S’ style milling machine for over a year now to complement my Clausing 100 mk 3 lathe.  A week ago this mill was only posted on Washington DC CL for 27 minutes when I found it. Contacted the seller immediately and she agree to give me first shot. The mill is a 1979 Select Machine Tool model 1/2V 7x30” knee mill made in Taiwan with a lot of tooling.
> 
> Bought a HF 1T shop crane and a HF 8T air/hydraulic jack. Modified with five foot 2” x 3/16” square tubing the extend the reach and height.  My brother and I drove up with his truck and small landscaping trailer.  Lifting the 900 lb mill and moving it to loading dock was no trouble.  Took an hour getting the mill down onto the trailer.  Bolted 2x4x6 boards to mill base and slide mill down 30 degree onto trailer.
> 
> The knee raises and lowers smoothly.  Lock all the travels and check for backlash with very little movement. Lead screws are adjustable split nuts. Forgot to take any pictures moving it.  Have the original owner manual with all recorded QC measurements and inspector stamps.  The document S/N match mill number.  The quality of this 40 year milling machine was definitely not targeted for the home hobbyist market.
> 
> It may be a month or two before I get around the mill.
> Select Machine Tool, Model: 1/2V,  S/N:64620, MfgDate: 1979
> 
> *** Long term ToDo plan ***
> 1. Fab rolling base with casters and leveling pads
> 2. Remove/Clean: Bed, Saddle, Knee, Spindle?, Touch up paint
> 3. ?Convert to 1-Stroke Oiler?
> 4. Install 3 or 4-axis DRO TouchDRO
> -  Scales? Glass or magnetic. (I’m using iGaging Absolute+ on my lathe)
> 5. X-Axis PowerFeed. Servo(USA) or Align(TW)
> 6. Convert 1 HP 1P Motor to 1.5 or 2 HP 3P VFD
> 7. Column Riser Block?
> 
> *** Additional Tooling ***
> 1. Quality Kurt-style precision vise. 4” or 5”
> 2. Precision drill chuck
> 3. Quality Parallels Set 6” x 1/8”
> 4. 1/2” Clamping Set
> 5. Maybe another set of 123 blocks?
> 6. Indexer?
> 
> Does one know the actual manufacture is for the ‘Select’ milling machine?  Poa Chuan Machinery (TW),   Kao Fong (TW), ???
> 
> Bob G.


Heya Bob,
I know this post is a year+ old but I just got my hands on a Select 1/2VB and wondered if you have or know of a illustration manual for these units.
I think I will be replacing the spindle bearings soon and want to see if any P/N and or teardown info is available. 
Nice lot of tooling you got with your unit


----------



## WEL0058

Seeker2b said:


> Heya Bob,
> I know this post is a year+ old but I just got my hands on a Select 1/2VB and wondered if you have or know of a illustration manual for these units.
> I think I will be replacing the spindle bearings soon and want to see if any P/N and or teardown info is available.
> Nice lot of tooling you got with your unit


Hi Seeker - Welcome aboard.

If you go to page 2 of this thread, I posted my mill manual.  Found the Grizzly G1004 mill is almost 100% identical.  Grizzly is the best source for mill specific parts.

Do you have any pictures?

Do you see any difference between my mill and yours?

I used my mill a lot this make parts to mount an iGaging DRO on my Clausing 100 lathe’s cross slide.

What is the issue with your spindle bearings?  There was a thread in this forum someone who was doing a complete breakdown of his Grizzly mill including remove and disassembling the spindle.

Bob G.


----------



## Seeker2b

WEL0058 said:


> Hi Seeker - Welcome aboard.
> 
> If you go to page 2 of this thread, I posted my mill manual.  Found the Grizzly G1004 mill is almost 100% identical.  Grizzly is the best source for mill specific parts.
> 
> Do you have any pictures?
> 
> Do you see any difference between my mill and yours?
> 
> I used my mill a lot this make parts to mount an iGaging DRO on my Clausing 100 lathe’s cross slide.
> 
> What is the issue with your spindle bearings?  There was a thread in this forum someone who was doing a complete breakdown of his Grizzly mill including remove and disassembling the spindle.
> 
> Bob G.


----------



## Seeker2b

I found it after being blinded by pop up ads and looking at page 2 closer I downloaded it about 2 hours ago.
Here's some pics. I've been cleaning and lubing. When I lowered the quill I should see through the front housing the top, lower bearing exposed, non-sealed. It was dry. The drip luber on the unit had oil in it but not sure it fed the quill bearings on just the sleeve plunger.
This unit is a little different than your unit. The motor (I don't think it's the original) is mounted on top. It came with a VFD to power the 3 phase motor with single phase 220 VAC.
I'm tooling up all that I no longer have access to. eBay has supplied a lot of good deals. I've sold and bought on eBay since 1998. Back when you needed to know html to write an auction. Much easier now.
Been 2 years since relocating from WA, leaving a 15 year career (covid) and losing access to the companies machining equipment and tooling. Went into machining withdrawal!
Trying adapt to a lack of space in a hot environment in the middle of the sticks were pack rats rule the west and Rattlesnakes visit me regularly. 
Randolph D


----------



## WEL0058

Seeker2b said:


> I found it after being blinded by pop up ads and looking at page 2 closer I downloaded it about 2 hours ago.
> Here's some pics. I've been cleaning and lubing. When I lowered the quill I should see through the front housing the top, lower bearing exposed, non-sealed. It was dry. The drip luber on the unit had oil in it but not sure it fed the quill bearings on just the sleeve plunger.
> This unit is a little different than your unit. The motor (I don't think it's the original) is mounted on top. It came with a VFD to power the 3 phase motor with single phase 220 VAC.
> I'm tooling up all that I no longer have access to. eBay has supplied a lot of good deals. I've sold and bought on eBay since 1998. Back when you needed to know html to write an auction. Much easier now.
> Been 2 years since relocating from WA, leaving a 15 year career (covid) and losing access to the companies machining equipment and tooling. Went into machining withdrawal!
> Trying adapt to a lack of space in a hot environment in the middle of the sticks were pack rats rule the west and Rattlesnakes visit me regularly.
> Randolph D


Thanks Randolph for the photos. Noticed you had said your model was 1/2VB.  Was wonder about what the ‘B’ represented.  Looks like BP J style motor configuration.  Does the head NOG forward?

Yeah been on eBay exactly 22 years (just check Sept 25, 2000).  Back then there were really good deals as people were trying to get rid of things.

Boy that is a big change climate wise Your move to AZ.


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## slow-poke

I’m curious how tall is this machine?

 I would like to upgrade my round column mill at some point, however my mill location in basement is under a heating duct so limited vertical space.


----------



## WEL0058

slow-poke said:


> I’m curious how tall is this machine?
> 
> I would like to upgrade my round column mill at some point, however my mill location in basement is under a heating duct so limited vertical space.


Height was one of my concerns looking for a mill since plan to install under a pallet rack. You also need to take into account with cover flipped open and removing the drawbar.

Check out post# 51 which will help with different dimensions.

Bob G.


----------



## slow-poke

WEL0058 said:


> Height was one of my concerns looking for a mill since plan to install under a pallet rack. You also need to take into account with cover flipped open and removing the drawbar.
> 
> Check out post# 51 which will help with different dimensions.
> 
> Bob G.





slow-poke said:


> imagine near everyone is aware of the cloned Mitutoyo 6” calipers, my question is have they also cloned the 8” calipers or are they a safe bet to order on eBay and get a genuine Mitutoyo?





WEL0058 said:


> Height was one of my concerns looking for a mill since plan to install under a pallet rack. You also need to take into account with cover flipped open and removing the drawbar.
> 
> Check out post# 51 which will help with different dimensions.
> 
> Bob G.


Thanks I missed the details in #51. The good news is that one of these will fit in my space no problem. I'm going to keep an eye open.


----------



## Seeker2b

WEL0058 said:


> Thanks Randolph for the photos. Noticed you had said your model was 1/2VB.  Was wonder about what the ‘B’ represented.  Looks like BP J style motor configuration.  Does the head NOG forward?
> 
> Yeah been on eBay exactly 22 years (just check Sept 25, 2000).  Back then there were really good deals as people were trying to get rid of things.
> 
> Boy that is a big change climate wise Your move to AZ.


Yes, there's no rack or screw. Loosen 4 bolts, tighten one spreader bolt and then it slides forward. Also L/R 90° tilt. The last suffix seems to be the difference between mine and Bob's unit.
Also came with a 5" riser to add to the height of the column. I haven't installed it yet. To the top surface where the motor bolts is approx. 6 feet.


----------



## Seeker2b

slow-poke said:


> I’m curious how tall is this machine?
> 
> I would like to upgrade my round column mill at some point, however my mill location in basement is under a heating duct so limited vertical space.


6' to where the motor attaches. The motor is about 10-11" above that...


----------



## Tbone

Hi
 would like to install an x axis power feed on my select 7x30 mill, can't seem to find anything with a 5/8 shaft ????


----------



## Seeker2b

Heya TBone,
If your looking for 5/8" this Vevor is economical and has a 5/8" shaft...









						VEVOR X-Axis Power Feed 150 Lbs Torque for Bridgeport Type Milling Machines 0-200 RPM  | VEVOR US
					

Discover VEVOR X-Axis Power Feed 150 Lbs Torque for Bridgeport Type Milling Machines 0-200 RPM, Compact & Versatile and Sturdy & Stable at lowest price, 2days delivery, 30days returns.




					m.vevor.com


----------



## Tbone

X axes done. anybody done a power feed on this mill? help


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## wrenchguyrich

Been doing some improvements on my select mill lately. Going to start a new thread under Asian Mills I think would be the right category.

Rich


----------

