# My 9A-#16490 NKR



## finsruskw (May 18, 2020)

Finally got some spare time to begin clean up. Decided to start on the easy end first!
First question: What, if anything, goes in the hole on the tailstock opposite the cinch down lever?
More questions to follow I'm sure.




I don't mind a little patina but this is ridiculous!
And totally uncalled for.
Some folks should not be allowed to own putty knives!!
The dial for the tailpiece is cracked and the knob is missing.
Anyone have a spare?


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## benmychree (May 18, 2020)

The hole was for a dauber, a ball headed spike looking thing with a round shouldered part that kept the cavity more or less sealed when not being used to apply center lubricant  when using dead centers; the little pocket was partially filled with whatever center lube you wanted to use, whether it was Dixon's graphite lube, CMD (I think) or white or red lead in oil.  My HS machine shop had them on all the SB lathes and they were used.


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## benmychree (May 18, 2020)

What type of cabinet or legs does it have?  I have one here that I want to sell, has 3&4 jaw chucks, lantern tool post with holders, and live center, has been completely gone through and nicely painted and worn parts replaced.  Asking $1200.


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## finsruskw (May 18, 2020)

Thanks!
There was some kind of crusty looking cream colored stuff in it when I dug around with a screwdriver in there.
It has the standard UMD cabinet w/mounting lugs and  w/o drawers. I think it will clean up nicely, at least it's not all beat up.
I tried a few "towels in bucket" hand cleaners on one side and the color came right back out  through all the crud!


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## benmychree (May 18, 2020)

likely white lead.  Mine has sheet steel legs without drawers also, seem like a waste of space, but cheap, I guess.


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## finsruskw (May 18, 2020)

benmychree said:


> likely white lead.  Mine has sheet steel legs without drawers also, seem like a waste of space, but cheap, I guess.


Yours a UMD as well?


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## benmychree (May 18, 2020)

finsruskw said:


> Yours a UMD as well?


what makes it a UMD?


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## silverhawk (May 18, 2020)

UMD is an under mount drive. You have UMD if the engine is below the headstock in the cabinet. 

joe


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## benmychree (May 18, 2020)

mine is rear mount drive.


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## finsruskw (May 20, 2020)

More questions...
How does this come apart?
I want to dis-assemble, clean and lube it
I have the short gib out and the set screw that holds the base for the tool post as well as the screw holding the dial indicator including the peg underneath it.
I would think the screw would just unscrew off the end and the top just slide off??
It looks like it takes a special tool to remove the cap from the handle?
Also, I am missing several of the gib retaining screws on both the main slide and the tool post slde.
Anyone know the thread size on these? Does not appear to be NC or NF standard.

Thanks in advance
Oh, I did pick up a used Cushman 3 jaw chuck yesterday, better than nothing at all for now.


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## benmychree (May 20, 2020)

I think you have to remove the screw assembly first, and the top slide tilts to one side to lift off over the nut


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## finsruskw (May 20, 2020)

Kinda what I thought but when I unscrew it all the way out, thinking it would just slide off after clearing the nut, it locks up and binds.


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## benmychree (May 20, 2020)

Yes, the back of the top slide runs into the nut, that is why the screw assembly has to be removed so that the top slide can be tilted off with the gib removed.  I should think that the gib screws should be a standard thread.  SB does not seem to be a company that bastardized things.


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## finsruskw (May 22, 2020)

Found them on the Illion Industrial sight, size 12 x 28
Ordered a spanner pin wrench to get the nut off and will have to locate a spanner bit to remove the nut on the handle end as well.
Looks like the lead screw will have to come off in order to drop the apron??
Or can I slide the apron off the right side after propping the 1/2 nuts open?


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## benmychree (May 22, 2020)

You should be able to slide the apron to the right, off the end of the lead screw, best to put some blocking under it to avoid the screw sagging.  If the feed selector is left in the feed position, not in the thread position, there should be no need to "prop them open", they will be locked open.


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## finsruskw (May 24, 2020)

I dunno, but to these newbie untrained eyes, these apron parts look pretty good to me at least!
Have the casting clean and ready for paint as soon as I get the machined areas masked off.


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## finsruskw (May 31, 2020)

So far, so good!
Had a little time this week during all the rain.


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## brino (May 31, 2020)

Great colour and finish!
-brino


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## finsruskw (May 31, 2020)

Thanks!
The color is Gloss Smoke Grey, Rustoleum rattle can is all, nothing special.
Thinking about a different color for the base, what say you guys?
Probably disassemble and haul to the sandblaster and have an auto body shop shoot that in automotive paint.


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## finsruskw (Jun 2, 2020)

Cross feed and compound are done and I had a little time this afternoon to rough out a tee nut for my QCTP from MSC.


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## silverhawk (Jun 4, 2020)

When doing the bed (or any surface that mattress with another), don't sand blast it unless you can protect the ways.

joe


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## finsruskw (Jun 8, 2020)

Sand blast will be for the cabinet only, after the guts are all removed.
I'm thinking a little darker shade of grey to compliment the lighter color of the components.

Got the bed off and the gear box and head removed yesterday.
Will take the power washer to the bed today hopefully then mask, paint and set aside for now.
I'm gaining on it slow but sure.


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## Karlito26 (Jun 8, 2020)

Nice project. I love it when people restore older machines.
Question for all: on the carriage, inbetween the ways there are two 5/16 x 18 bolt holes. What are they for?


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## finsruskw (Jun 8, 2020)

You mean on the back side of then saddle?
I wondered that myself.
Maybe something to do with a taper attachment?
I'll bet it's for that, part #10, bed bracket


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## Karlito26 (Jun 8, 2020)

Not on the backside but in the middle of the saddle. Inbetween the ways. On the last pic below the compound rest.


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## derf (Jun 8, 2020)

That's for a follower rest.


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## Karlito26 (Jun 9, 2020)

My mystery solved! Thank you. 
How often is something like that needed?


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## finsruskw (Jun 20, 2020)

My 33/64" bit and M14 x 1.5 tap showed up this week so one of the projects today is finish the "tee" nut for the compound on the 9A.
Will be using the mill to drill and would like to power tap the hole once drilled.
Couple of questions here.
Is there a rule of thumb as to what size pilot hole to pre-drill for larger bits?
I plan on using a small end mill for a pilot hole, good idea or bad?
The slowest my mill will turn is 80 RPM, is this to fast for tapping a hole this size?

Thanks?


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## finsruskw (Jun 28, 2020)

Tee nut is finished and I got the bed cleaned up and painted today
This is before primer & paint


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## brino (Jun 29, 2020)

Sorry for the delay, I stopped getting notifications on updates to threads I "watch".

I know it's too late for your top-slide t-nut since you showed it complete above, but it may be useful in the future.

Did you power tap it? How did it go?




finsruskw said:


> Is there a rule of thumb as to what size pilot hole to pre-drill for larger bits?



I like the chart from Little Machine Shop. I printed and laminated a copy and keep it in the shop.
The web page here shows only the imperial sheet: https://littlemachineshop.com/reference/tapdrill.php

However, if you download the PDF from this link on that page:




You get a PDF version with two pages Metric and Imperial.

What I like about that chart are the two recommendations for 75% thread or 100% thread depth.
You can choose what fits the application.

-brino


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## finsruskw (Jun 29, 2020)

Brino,
I did it by hand.
Although I did chuck up the tap to be sure all was straight then used a piece of drill rod in the chuck for a handle once I got the initial bite.
Oh, and I used a 3/16" end mill for a pilot hole.
Worked OK!
In a week or so, I should have the cabinet gutted so I can take it to the sand blast guy.
I think I'm going with Case/IH gray for paint. I can get a Qt for $33. It's the darker gray used on the Case skid steer tractors for trim.
I think it will compliment the gloss smoke gray I have been using for the rest of it.
I Appreciate your interest in my project.


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## finsruskw (Jun 30, 2020)

Turned out pretty good, I think!!
I'm starting to get a little excited now about seeing this project thru to completion although it will take me some time more yet, Been a busy summer so far.


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## finsruskw (Jul 11, 2020)

Cabinet is gutted and ready for a trip to the sandblaster.
UMD components are cleaned and awaiting the cabinet refinishing so will be a few weeks yet.
Most components are done and awaiting re assembly at this point.


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## Surprman (Jul 11, 2020)

Nice work on the restoration.  To answer one of the follow-on questions (When are follower rests used?) - they are used when turning long narrow parts.  I got one not because I needed one but because I might need one some day.  Still have not used it for a project (but did put bearing rollers on it).   BTW - I put in some hex nuts in those holes to keep them from getting junk stuck in them.  I’ve sometimes thought it would be nice to mount a flat platform for an indicator  using those bolts (the rest of the carriage surfaces are rounded)

Rick


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## Karlito26 (Jul 12, 2020)

Your project is coming along nicely!
It may be to too late but mark the wires that go to your on/off switch and take a picture of it. 
On mine all the wires but one were black.
I can't wait to see it all together.


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## finsruskw (Jul 12, 2020)

Thanks Karl! and I'm glad you mentioned the wiring as 
that is another item I need to source as there are no switches or terminal box at all on this machine.
Just a cord coming from the motor out through the back of the cabinet with a plug on it.
This is the motor that was on the machine when I got it.
Should I have this wired for 110 or 220 when/if I can locate what is missing?




It is also missing the switches/parts that would/should have been located in the next 2 pic's
Perhaps one of the folks here has a 9A with the parts I am missing and could post some pictures please??
Is any of this stuff available anymore?


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## Karlito26 (Jul 14, 2020)

The switch on mine is: left is forward, middle is off, right is reverse. I think the switch can be found at McMaster Carr.
My motor is 110 volt and has a two step pulley. I have a bad sketch on how mine is wired. Mine goes to a junction box behind the lathe. I am not sure if this is stock because I have a pump for coolant. I inherited mine from an uncle.
When i have a chance i will get part numbers for you.


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## finsruskw (Jul 18, 2020)

Fresh back from the painter
Let the re-assembly begin!!
Paint is IH Iron Guard Graphite Gray


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## Karlito26 (Jul 18, 2020)

Just to clarify i have a 10k lathe. You still should have a switch that reverses. 
McMaster Carr does have the drum switches. I cant determine which one you need though.
My wiring is run through conduit underneath the pan. It goes from the switch, curves to the left into a juction box the to the motor.
This stuff could be bought at Home Depot, etc. 
My wiring is 14 guage. From the motor to the juction box. Not sure from box to switch.


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## finsruskw (Jul 21, 2020)

Well rainy days equals shop time.
Made a bit more headway today and finished up the headstock.
I hope to corner the neighbor tomorrow for help in laying down the cabinet and installing the UMD components.


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## finsruskw (Aug 2, 2020)

Got the motor and underdrive unit install yesterday with the help of my oldest Son, Les.
Although the belt I had thought was correct is way too long as can be seen in the pictures.
I am thinking I may have made made a typo by adding another '4' (3440) (5L440) when I ordered the belt and have been told the correct belt is a #3400 (5L400)
This from a fellow that has the same lathe w/original motor and 2 place pulley. Belt is a Truflex brand

Mine is a replacement motor and single place pully.


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## brino (Aug 2, 2020)

@finsruskw 

Great progress. I am routing for you (and Les, my sons are amazing help too!)

Everything looks so clean and new.
I can't wait to see some chips.

-brino


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## finsruskw (Aug 8, 2020)

Got some detail work done today and also the drive belt fom th motor installed and the motor wired correctly for CW rotation.


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## finsruskw (Aug 16, 2020)

Just about to wrap things up as soon as I can locate a switch and get it wired up for 220.
However I can still run it by plugging in to 110 w/the cord that came with the motor,.
Still need to locate a live center and a drill chuck for the tail stock.





	

		
			
		

		
	
o


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## silverhawk (Aug 16, 2020)

Looks good. I will wait for the "does it run" feedback next. Anticipation!

joe


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## finsruskw (Sep 9, 2020)

Here is the new drum switch installed in the cabinet w/o drilling any new holes.
Now to find a tag for the mounting holes.
I know, we got the centering hole a wee bit off on the shaft extension....sigh....              



But now anther issue has sprung up. It seems the belt adjustment turnbuckle is too long as well as the flat belt.
Turnbuckle has a 4" body and should be 2". 
Someone used a hardware store t/buckle and made new screws, LH & RH for it allowing the motor to hang too low causing the belt to rub on the t/buckle mounting lugs......always something!!
I think I can shorten the belt to the correct length but will have to make the correct t/buckle or find a 2" one like what shoiuld be on there.

Here is an original 2" t/buckle
I may have to buy a left hand tap and make one.
I also would like to find a 2 step pulley for the motor as well.


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