# If I Buy A Tig Welder Can I Pitch My Mig Welder?



## coolidge (Jun 4, 2015)

So I have the fairly new Lincoln 210MP welder that's been selling like hot cakes for $995. It promises the moon right MIG, TIG, and Stick and it seems to do MIG quite well. But the TIG seems to be a hack job design, not well thought out, limited in some ways and it will cost me another $600 to buy the TIG kit for this unit.

I am insanely jealous of the beautiful clean welds TIG leaves, that's what I want. So if a guy had a good quality TIG welder does he really need a MIG? I'm thinking of dropping $2k to $3k on a TIG welder that is designed to be a TIG welder vs a multi process machine like I have full of compromises. I suppose I'm not into the Lincoln that much and could keep it around but not if I'm not going to use it. If the TIG welder can do anything the MIG welder can I'll probably throw it on craigslist.


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## JimDawson (Jun 4, 2015)

Each machine type has it's purpose.  Normally the all-in-one machines don't do anything well.  It depends on how much and the type of welding you need to do.  For occasional quick job, yes the TIG would work, but I would not want to build a trailer frame with one unless it was aluminum.  I use TIG on some of the more precision steel work.  Thin sheet steel, stainless and aluminum are what TIG is made for.  Welding a hook on a FEL bucket is not a TIG job IMHO, MIG or stick would do a better job and would be a lot faster.  Heaver stuff, sometimes it's a toss up as to which welder I grab, stick or MIG.  Because I have a pretty light MIG, anything over a 1/4 inch or so I grab the stick.  For most jobs around my shop, I use the MIG.  The best advice I can really give is to get proficient with all of the processes.


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## Doubleeboy (Jun 4, 2015)

When I took welding class, actually an open shop for advanced students that I was invited to by instructor, I got to weld with any state of art equipment I wanted in any format.   I loved the Tig, but for slapping something together of any thickness Mig or Stick win the battle.  I see Tig as for finesse, delicate, precision type work.  If you want single pass penetration spend a few grand on a nice Mig, if you are a farmer like me a stick with AC DC will be fine.  I have a ten year old Thermal TSW 185.  185 amps Tig, 160 I think stick ac/dc, got lots of bells and whistles for Tig.

I am a farmer and a hack welder, I rarely even use the Tig any more.  I have a factory reconditioned Hobart 175 mig that I use with Argon, or mix and do half decent work with, but when I work on the farm machinery I don't care about pretty beads, I want penetration, Stick wins.   If I was doing lots of aluminum I would get a spool gun rig from Miller or Hobart in the 200Amp range and go Mig.  Tig needs a boat load of Amps for any penetration.  If you want pretty and precision ya go with Tig, if you need deep penetration Mig or stick.  That is not just my opinion, its all I hear at the welding supply house and the community college when I use to go.  I guess you need to define in your own head what you want to do, or fess up with yourself and admit you just want a new toy, nothing wrong with that, witness my lathe purchase of a couple months ago.

nice job on the power feed unit !!
cheers
michael

I was typing while Jim posted, he covered it well in less words


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## brino (Jun 4, 2015)

I'd say get the TIG machine first, and then let life decide if you need to keep the MIG.

Once you have a decent TIG machine and learn to use it well, you'll soon see how much (if any!) use the MIG rig gets.

My bet (as said by Jim and Michael above) you'll agree that each has it's place......

-brino


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## coolidge (Jun 4, 2015)

JimDawson said:


> I use TIG on some of the more precision steel work.  Thin sheet steel, stainless and aluminum are what TIG is made for.



Then its TIG for me, heavy farm typing welding would be rare. I'm more likely to be welding thin materials, stainless, and aluminum that need show quality welds and won't see heavy use. Another factor is controlling shrinkage and warping.

One thing I find highly annoying about MIG is I don't have much control over the filler metal it just pours into the weld. Try to go slower and it just piles up with poor penetration, too fast same thing. Crank the amps and yeah it penetrates and wets out but is a bit much to control, pause or try to finesse something and you get over penetration. Its like grip it and rip it at the one speed or else. On the other hand TIG looks more difficult in that you only have one hand to control the torch but I'm kind of used to that with all the soldering I have done over the years.

Since the Lincoln is paid for and I'd probably only get $500 to $600 for it I'm in no hurry to dump it. What I really want to avoid is wasting $600 buying the TIG kit for it only to be frustrated by its limitations vs a full featured TIG welder.


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## bpratl (Jun 5, 2015)

Jim and Michael are 100% on, but I would like to add one thing. I have Mig, Tig and stick welders and my preferred method for old rusty, oily, painted steel, that is less than 1/8", is oxy acetylene gas weld with a slightly reducing flame to reduce the rust back to the base metal.
I own an automobile repair shop and we do a lot of exhaust and frame repair and I find that there is no needed grinding or pre time required if I jump in and start gas welding. just my 2 cents. Bob


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## Firestopper (Jun 5, 2015)

Its been mentioned several times, all welding processes have their place. If only owning one welding machine, then MIG wins. If you want more options, then TIG, but you will need to invest more money. I have never really cared for the "all in one"machines, though have witness nice work produced by them.  I use the Mig 9 out of 10 vs Tig, but I seldom turn down a welding job. 
Good luck,
PN


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## Firestopper (Jun 5, 2015)

Sorry, I failed to mention that Tig welding is a PITA due to so much prep time and other variables that MIG is immune to.
Not trying to talk you out of buying a nice TIG, but to consider all shop welding 100% TIG will take Waaaay longer and more effort than MIG. 
Again, the TIG is for special jobs ( you really didn't mention the type of work you do). BTW, a fine tuned MIG bead is pleasing to the eyes.
Good luck,
PN


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## dave2176 (Jun 5, 2015)

Don't spend the money on the tig kit, it is missing AC tig. Like others, I would want a mig first. With more practice, maybe ignoring the easy auto instuctions, the mig will flow well.

Dave


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## Ulma Doctor (Jun 5, 2015)

coolidge said:


> So I have the fairly new Lincoln 210MP welder that's been selling like hot cakes for $995. It promises the moon right MIG, TIG, and Stick and it seems to do MIG quite well. But the TIG seems to be a hack job design, not well thought out, limited in some ways and it will cost me another $600 to buy the TIG kit for this unit.
> 
> I am insanely jealous of the beautiful clean welds TIG leaves, that's what I want. So if a guy had a good quality TIG welder does he really need a MIG? I'm thinking of dropping $2k to $3k on a TIG welder that is designed to be a TIG welder vs a multi process machine like I have full of compromises. I suppose I'm not into the Lincoln that much and could keep it around but not if I'm not going to use it. If the TIG welder can do anything the MIG welder can I'll probably throw it on craigslist.





Mig & tig can weld a lot of the same metals.
tig is the process for strange alloys, deepest penetration, precision welding- the process is slow and takes lots of practice to become proficient
mig can weld aluminum, stainless, & other steels, the penetration is reduced in comparison to tig, but it's a faster-easier process to learn and use and takes a lot less time to become proficient at.

tig is my favorite process, albeit slow


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## coolidge (Jun 5, 2015)

Ulma Doctor said:


> Mig & tig can weld a lot of the same metals.
> tig is the process for strange alloys, deepest penetration, precision welding- the process is slow and takes lots of practice to become proficient
> mig can weld aluminum, stainless, & other steels, the penetration is reduced in comparison to tig, but it's a faster-easier process to learn and use and takes a lot less time become proficient at.
> 
> tig is my favorite process, albeit slow



I'm fine with slow, I found MIG is so fast you have to be perfect on the first try, that's fine if you are welding a stand for your mill or a trailer where perfect doesn't really matter. Way too fast for any kind of artistic work. I think its interesting that others above say MIG has more penetration than TIG and you are of the opposite opinion.


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## wrmiller (Jun 5, 2015)

Coolidge: Not trying to hijack your thread, but I have been thinking of getting a welder because there are times when I need it. But...this is for gunsmithing. Need good quality welds that look good and don't leave pits while doing small work in stainless, 4140, aluminum and other gun metals. Don't know if you can weld titanium, but I do work with that as well.

I'm thinking TIG?


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## coolidge (Jun 5, 2015)

No worries Bill, I think you are on the right track with TIG I now of no other type of welding that produces TIG quality welds. Where I will defer to others is, welding anything gun related that may wind up blowing up in your face right.


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## wrmiller (Jun 5, 2015)

coolidge said:


> No worries Bill, I think you are on the right track with TIG I now of no other type of welding that produces TIG quality welds. Where I will defer to others is, welding anything gun related that may wind up blowing up in your face right.



So what's a decent TIG cost that will run off a 240/30A circuit?


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## wrmiller (Jun 5, 2015)

This looks like a decent welder for a hobbyist

http://www.eastwood.com/tig-welders-eastwood-tig-ac-dc-welder.html

Or for twice the price...

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/product.php?model=M00337


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## Tony Wells (Jun 5, 2015)

I have that little Eastwood. No complaints.


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## coolidge (Jun 5, 2015)

Be careful of the prices listed on Miller's site and others, they are frequently just for the base unit no torches or accessories those are additional costs. Here's a site I use when price shopping that has the entire kit for $1,907 which is $549 off list. I would also browse some top welding forums on the particular brand/model you are considering. I have noticed even Millar has hatched some lemons or poor designs to avoid. One negative review isn't significant, a pattern of negative reviews from different people all noting the same issues is. Take your time, do the research. I would have to do quite a bit of digging into TIG welding to understand the various machines features and which ones I might need and which ones I don't. I see frequent mention of torch coolers so I'll be looking into that, both air and water. Again may not apply to what I'm doing but I could see being annoyed having to stop what I'm doing to wait for a torch to cool off.

http://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.com/miller-diversion-180-ac-dc-tig-welder-complete-907627


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## wrmiller (Jun 5, 2015)

Tony Wells said:


> I have that little Eastwood. No complaints.



Thanks Tony,

What I will end up doing is very short duration runs so I don't believe I require a high-dollar commercial unit. I will investigate further.


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## Doubleeboy (Jun 5, 2015)

In my experience you only need a cooler if you are using a lot of amps for extended periods.  On my TA TSW 185 I can Tig for quite some time without getting a hot hand.  It has a boat load of features, is inverter machine, has never had an issue and is an awesome stick welder to boot.  With a footswitch and bottle of gas you can do some pretty fine work, and pick it up with one hand.  Its not made in China and if you have an issue most any reputable shop can work on it.  You are suppose to run it on 50 amp circuit.  I run it on a 30 amp with no problem, although I don't think I have ever tried to max it out.

michael


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## cjtoombs (Jun 5, 2015)

I have a Lincoln Precision TIG 225, and it's been a great machine.  I have welded aluminum an steel, and it does a great job.  I bought it several years ago, and it was a good deal at the time.  It will also do stick, if you buy the cable and clamp, which was an additional $60 or so.  I also have a small MIG welder, and I have on occasion thought about upgrading it to a larger one.  The TIG is great for precise work that is easy to get to, but for building a stand, truck sideboards, or other large, bulky items the MIG is much easier to use.  Of course, stick could be used on these, but I prefer the MIG to the stick for that type of stuff.


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## bpratl (Jun 6, 2015)

Bill, I also have the same Eastwood Tig welder and I am very pleased with it. I use it mainly for aluminum with good results and did some major repairs on some aluminum casting which paid for the machine. It's hard to beat it for the price, size and capabilities. Bob


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## Hannadog (Jun 6, 2015)

I have a small part time gun smithing business. I realized TIG would be helpful in some repairs so I got a Thermal Arc 211 inverter welder. It works great and for precision heat control and welding you can't beat TIG. If I'm fabricating a tool or work bench I use MIG. The inverter allows me to use stick for thicker steel. I just added on to my shop and increased voltage to 240 to supply the inverter. Huge diffence in capabilities now.


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## coolidge (Jun 6, 2015)

Miller Dynasty 280 DX with wireless foot pedal and water cooled torch


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## coolidge (Jun 6, 2015)

Gunrunner you need to order a set of these for the Z axis hand crank. Bill did you just spit coffee on your monitor? :rofl:

View attachment 253356


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## JimDawson (Jun 6, 2015)

Also consider the Syncrowave 250 DX.  Nice machines.  And it will weld over 1 inch steel  (300 amp stick capability)  My older ('87) Syncrowave 250 has all of the features of the DX, except pulse.  But it's not portable, 355 lbs, but that's why we have forklifts.  It does roll around my shop just fine.


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## coolidge (Jun 7, 2015)

Hey Jim yeah I looked into those but the weight, also they require more amps than my service panel can provide.


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## JimDawson (Jun 7, 2015)

I run my whole shop on a single 50 amp breaker off of the main feeding the shop sub-panel, and have the welder connected to it's own 50 amp breaker but in the shop sub-panel.  I've only tripped the breaker one time in the last 8 years.  If I remember correctly a 100 amp circuit is recommended for the SW 250/DX

But you are right, it's heavy.


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## coolidge (Jun 8, 2015)

Well this is getting annoying...discovering an iconic USA brand product that still has the premium made in USA price tag is now actually made in China like its competitors costing half as much. (face palm)


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## JimDawson (Jun 8, 2015)

Ya just can't win


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## bpratl (Jun 8, 2015)

It's very sad, the good old "Made in U.S.A." label is a think of the past.


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## coolidge (Jun 8, 2015)

Something is very wrong with manufacturing in the USA if we can't manufacture a welder here that costs $7,000. That or Miller is just ripping people off charging a made in USA price for a welder made in China. Okay so they say its "assembled in USA" but I saw the guts of one of these welders, its a bunch of circuit boards and those clearly are "assembled" in China. Throwing some circuit boards into a chassis and testing doesn't justify a 100% mark up.

This isn't the only example of this. We all know the vaunted Powermatic brand that was purchased and moved to China. They still try to charge a huge mark up on Powermatic table saws for example but they are made in China and the quality is pathetic. I have one sitting in my garage, it cost over $3,000 and its a joke. Grizzly makes a 12" 5hp table saw that puts an epic beating on the Powermatic 10" 3hp in EVERY category and cost $1,000 less. It stinks of milking a brand name with high prices but the customer not receiving the quality they thought they were paying extra for. I'm not saying that's true with the Miller Dynasty 280 DX, it certainly seems to be a quality unit but wow double the cost of similar welders something is fishy there.


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## cjtoombs (Jun 8, 2015)

It's not as though the Chinese can't build quality.  They put satellites in space, after all.  The reason they have such a reputation for poor quality is that that is what we order from them.  US, European, Japanese and Korean firms will not build to this quality level because they have a reputation to worry about, and it would get back to them.  It would be difficult to track down the manufacturer of most shoddy goods from China.  That being said, quality costs money in China the same as it does everywhere else, and if you have quality items manufactured in China, they will likely be in the same cost range as in the more developed economies.  I have a Tormach milling machine that was built in China, and is, relatively speaking, a high quality product.  It also costs quite a bit more than if it were being built to the same quality as harbor freights machine tools, one of which I also own.  So if a company is willing to stand behind a product with made in China parts in it, it is likely because they have high quality standards, including their own QC at the Chinese factory.


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## Ngray (Jun 9, 2015)

JimDawson said:


> Also consider the Syncrowave 250 DX.  Nice machines.  And it will weld over 1 inch steel  (300 amp stick capability)  My older ('87) Syncrowave 250 has all of the features of the DX, except pulse.  But it's not portable, 355 lbs, but that's why we have forklifts.  It does roll around my shop just fine.




I did the same thing for my home garage.  I wanted the least gear that would deliver the greatest capabilities, at low volume. I also didn't want a finicky inverter to fuss with in 10-20 years. After watching cl for a few months, watching some beat up old units go by, I settled on a bare syncrowave 250. I added all brand new accessories and built it out water cooled, for about 2,300. Only downside is weight and power, neither of which bother me.
I would only go mig if I had to hit commercial volume.


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## akool64 (Jun 9, 2015)

Before buying a new machine check out www.weldingtipsandtricks.com.


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## gramps1951 (Jun 9, 2015)

I've read all the responses and there are a lot of good points made in favour of both types of welders. The only point I'm going to make is that I've witnessed first hand an extremely high end MIG machine and the same quality of TIG machine produce absolutely HORRIBLE results. The reason being is that the MACHINE does not determine the end result, the human on the TIG torch or MIG gun is what makes the machine produce beautiful, strong welds. When I bought my Miller MIG there was a guy in the store at the same time looking at the same machine. He said he heard it was an excellent machine and could do most of what he wanted to do and was simple to use so he could do stuff for his friends too. I asked him what he was currently using and he said he didn't have a machine and had never welded before but that a MIG welder made welding simple. Glad I'm not his friend and having him do work for me!!

So really just about any machine in the hands of a SKILLED welder will do what it intended for but any machine in the hands of a hack will produce results accordingly.

Mike from Canada


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## Ngray (Jun 9, 2015)

gramps1951 said:


> I've read all the responses and there are a lot of good points made in favour of both types of welders. The only point I'm going to make is that I've witnessed first hand an extremely high end MIG machine and the same quality of TIG machine produce absolutely HORRIBLE results. The reason being is that the MACHINE does not determine the end result, the human on the TIG torch or MIG gun is what makes the machine produce beautiful, strong welds. When I bought my Miller MIG there was a guy in the store at the same time looking at the same machine. He said he heard it was an excellent machine and could do most of what he wanted to do and was simple to use so he could do stuff for his friends too. I asked him what he was currently using and he said he didn't have a machine and had never welded before but that a MIG welder made welding simple. Glad I'm not his friend and having him do work for me!!
> 
> So really just about any machine in the hands of a SKILLED welder will do what it intended for but any machine in the hands of a hack will produce results accordingly.
> 
> Mike from Canada


Great point, and the same advice I give to folks who want to buy a gun... If you won't train with it, don't pull it out in times of need!


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## Dragonheart (Jun 9, 2015)

I have an old Lincoln Arc I have had for 30 years and it works fine, but when I got my MIG it was never used again.  

A year ago I purchased an Everlast Powertig 210, which was a brand new design; so new that they didn't even have a manual.  Since then the MIG has not been used.  Like most home hobbyists I am now trying to weld heavy steel or go into fabrication of large assemblies.  I always wanted a welder that would do fine work on thin metals, but still had the ability to weld thicker stuff.  For me this welder is perfect.  It's small, light enough to be portable, has plenty of power for me, runs on either 220V or 115V and will weld any metal that is weldable.  I have made a number of projects welding metals from 18 gauge stainless, 1/8 inch aluminium to 3/8 inch plate steel and angle iron.  The machine works great and produces a beautiful weld.  The Everlast salesman told me this was going to be the only welder I would need and he was right.  I paid about $1800 for the package complete ready to weld except the package did not include tungsten rods or gas tanks.  I will warn you that the two torches included work, but do yourself a favor and buy a CK 17 torch with the flex hose and you will start out having a much easier time learning to use the TIG. I haven't been back to the Everlast site to see about a manual because I downloaded the Manual for the Power TIG 255 EXT which appears to be the same unit with just more power.  So far I haven't needed anything over 150 amps, so the 255 would be nice, but not needed for me.


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## ericc (Jun 9, 2015)

What is wrong with the Lincoln?  Hack job?  Does this welder have lift start?  If it does, you can start off really quick and easy with a self-assembled kit.  I think that there is a pointer to weldingtipsandtricks or something like that.  Also, there is this fun guy named chucke2009 on youtube who goes through a budget self assembled system.  All you need is a torch, hose, connector and tank.  If you have a lathe, you can make the connector, but I bought mine.  It kept me going until I got a real TIG welder.  I welded a copper bracelet and ribs on an umbrella without burning the nylon.  I have seen some good MIG guys, but none who can weld that fiddly stuff with a big MIG gun.


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## W6PUG (Jun 9, 2015)

It seems like every post has a lot of subject creep, and there is a ton of good information in all of the responses, but I am going to go back and give you my tiny bit of experience on the subject you asked: if you get a TIG, should you get rid of MIG: when I was young ( 40 years ago) I welded every day, and we did not have access to all of the kool technology available today and sure as heck not for the price. Today I have my MIG and TIG welderS (I capitalized the 's' because I have both. Why? I use MIG for general purpose welding on trailers and more of the structural stuff where I have to supply a fair amount of fill metal, but there are just some things that you can do better and with more finish and finesse with TIG than MIG: aluminum, fine and thin metals, dress work, etc.  Both have their place - and I suspect there is always a point of argument that you can refine the technique of MIG to look like TIG and vice versa - but my habits, technique (sometimes not master level [to say the least]) and time on the welding table have forced me to try to use the tool that suits me best for what I am trying to do. Thus, I have kept both MIG and TIG - Hobart, by the way - and it works for me, and my Hobarts serve me very, VERY well. I won't give you the sales pitch, but I think any welding machine that fits your technique and style is as subjective as anything else you do that you love (what kind of motorcycle do you prefer, or car, or anything else "personal". Hope this does not bore you to death, but guys on this forum helped me a lot over these past couple of years, and I would not be doing what I am doing without their help ... and these tools. Good luck/take care.


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## W6PUG (Jun 9, 2015)

OBTW - I see the forum thing put a Turkish flag under my name - I am from USA (CA) but just happen to be working in Turkiye this week, so don't be confused


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## blake (Jun 9, 2015)

my 2 cents for what it is worth, i like tig alot, always had a good one to use, i would spend the money for a good tig. you can't beat their versatility for different needs if you need it and can handle keepin different gases handy.   that said mig is probably handier for the quick thin welding or tackin that i find most common in my circumstances, and cheap migs are handy for that. i'm an older fella, (retired) and still can't get over how cheap you can get a good enough wire feed these days, small and pretty close to portable. that covers most of the mig i need anyway. but i'm not making a living, more like having fun and keeping busy enough to deflect the more problematic honey-do's.


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## coolidge (Jun 9, 2015)

Thanks Dragonheart I spent a couple hours looking at Everlast yesterday.


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## coolidge (Jun 9, 2015)

ericc said:


> What is wrong with the Lincoln?  Hack job?  Does this welder have lift start?  If it does, you can start off really quick and easy with a self-assembled kit.  I think that there is a pointer to weldingtipsandtricks or something like that.  Also, there is this fun guy named chucke2009 on youtube who goes through a budget self assembled system.  All you need is a torch, hose, connector and tank.  If you have a lathe, you can make the connector, but I bought mine.  It kept me going until I got a real TIG welder.  I welded a copper bracelet and ribs on an umbrella without burning the nylon.  I have seen some good MIG guys, but none who can weld that fiddly stuff with a big MIG gun.



Stuff like this annoys me start at 1:16 in this video 



 so the TIG part of the unit is a bit of a hack job and you end up with cables hanging out the side of the machine with the panel open. I still can't find jus the TIG kit available for mine, it wasn't available when I purchased mine and it seems like all the TIG kits they are manufacturing now are being packaged for welders ordered with the TIG kit. So who knows when the kit will be in stock.

So my current thinking is rather than spend another $600 on the Lincoln TIG kit plus cooler and all the stuff that doesn't come in the kit I might just buy a TIG only machine that isn't a compromise. I'm currently researching other brands not Miller since discovering the $7,000 Miller is largely manufactured in China. Who knows I may still opt for the Miller Dynasty 280 DX but I will have to find a compelling reason to do so other than paying for the name. I can get an Everlast in the 250 to 310 amp range for $2,700. I don't know how much the torch, cooler, foot pedal, etc. will cost but I'm pretty sure it won't be the Miller price difference of $4,300. It has a 5 year warranty, I could throw it away in 5 years and buy another one for what the Miller would cost.


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## Doubleeboy (Jun 9, 2015)

what would be wrong with buying a use Syncrowave 250?   I bet you could locate one used for under 2K from a welder who is updating.  Made in USA, still supported, lots of em out there with pretty good track record.  The school I went to had them along with some ESAB that were pretty good.  The instructor got to pick the equipment, he was one incredible welder and he really like the Syncrowaves.

michael


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## coolidge (Jun 10, 2015)

Michael, maybe I don't know I searched craigslist in my area yesterday and guys were asking like$4k for those.


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## markknx (Jun 10, 2015)

Well Just about any good TIG machine should be able to run stick. With stick and Tig for a hobby shop One should be in real good shape. Mig is quick and easy, but limited like TIG by the whole gas thing.
Don't know that TIG will make prettier welds, I think that is up to the Welder.
I have a Lincoln 255 square wave runs stick and tig I also have a 120 V. wire feeder (not set up for MIG. Have all the parts just don't want to deal with the gas) I use for quick light-medium welding. But I tend to grab the TIG more and more. If I could have only one welder it would be a AC/DC Stick welder It can handle the widest range.
Just some thoughts.
Mark


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## coolidge (Jun 11, 2015)

Well after watching 2 hours of Welding tips and tricks videos my TIG drool went to 9.5  It was helpful, I don't think I need a 300 amp unit, I'm thinking around the 250 amp range or even a bit less.


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## ericc (Jun 14, 2015)

Hi coolidge.  I admit you are right.  This is fiddly operation.  Too bad it won't lift star without that silly foot pedal.  And, now I see why the TIG kit costs ^600.  It will be hard to make a simple scratch start setup yourself.


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## coolidge (Jun 14, 2015)

Eric I ordered an Everlast PowerTIG 255 EXT Friday!!


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