# Ordering Pm Lathe Soon, Choice May Be Decided By The Stand



## Enderw88 (May 11, 2016)

I have been going back and forth between a 1236 and an 1127 for the last few weeks.  Then I read tonight that there is a 1228 which has the real features of the 1236 I want (D1-4 spindle mount, 2HP motor).  So that is in play now.  Matt told me a few days ago he has 1236 and 1127 ready for shipment.  I will have to ask about the 1228 now...

I can swing the 1236, but it is a bit big for the space I have.  I like the mass and the base.  I tell myself that it would be nice to be able to work on the hubs of 17" motorcycle wheels and I could pull the gap for that.  Based on a cursory search around here it looks like that is not recommended.  It just seems enormous and I would lose a lot of valuable shop storage space.

The 1228 has the large bore and D1-4 I like.  Is it otherwise feature equivalent to the 1127? Separate leadscrew feed, power cross feed and reversing feed, left hand threading. Variable speed drive?

If I go with the 1127 or 1228 it looks like I need to fabricate a stand.  It isn't clear to me how to align these lathes.  Do you shim the base of the lathe or shim the stand?  

The decision may come down to how to mount the lathe.  I have seen a few threads about using tool chests but they seem to trail off when it gets to the subject of aligning the lathe.

Is there a consensus on mounting the smaller lathes so they can be aligned reasonably well?


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## BobDBob (May 11, 2016)

Enderw88

I am in the same situation you: looking to purchase the 1227 or 1228 soon.  Now I understand that Matt is introducing an 1127 made in Taiwan but currently only with a 1" spindle bore.  I have read good and not so good reports of the bases/stands that are available for  these lathes.  I too have limited garage/shop space and am considering purchasing an optional stand from Matt and modifying it for rigidity (if I can find a reasonably priced welder).  I see in your profile you are in Corona, AZ.  Is that Corona de Tucson ?  I am in Green Valley;  if you need a hand, pm me.  Bob


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## MSD0 (May 11, 2016)

I have the 1127vf-lb and it's a great machine, but I would probably go for the 1228 because of the cam lock spindle mount. As far as I know, the machines are otherwise very similar in features. When I set mine up, I just got the bench close to level and used shims to level the lathe.


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## jbolt (May 11, 2016)

We have the 1127VF-LB at the school and it is perfect for what we do there. For personal use if my choice was between the 1127 or 1236 I wouldn't even consider the 1127. The lack of a cam lock spindle is a deal killer from the get go. You will benefit from the extra mass of the 1236. The actual footprint is not that much bigger.

I totally understand space limitations. Mt garage/shop is standing room only but somehow I manage to keep squeezing in more equipment.

The problem with removing the bed gap insert is that it is installed and ground at the same time as the rest of the bed. Sometimes the mating surfaces between the bed and insert is not properly ground or cleaned which makes it difficult to get re aligned. It can be done. There are ways to make it so you can remove, reinstall and keep alignment but it takes some work.


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## Bamban (May 11, 2016)

Is there a specification sheet available for the 1228? Could not find it in the PM website


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## mksj (May 11, 2016)

Bamban said:


> Is there a specification sheet available for the 1228?


Please see attached file. A great step up without taking it to the next level of a 36 or 40" lathe. The other major selling point over smaller machines in this class is "Inch AND Metric thread cutting ability is a standard feature, with many quick change threads for less change gears. 15 different threads or feeds can be cut with one gear setup."


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## Bamban (May 13, 2016)

Mark,

Thank you for the spec sheet. 

I actually like most of what's in the spec about this machine. Suitable for doing AR barrels and light machining, the bulk of what I do with my ACER 1236 now. I like the D1-4 nose, I can share the chucks between the two lathes



Nez


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## koba49 (May 13, 2016)

Ok gentlemen it seems that you all have the same question about setting up a small bench lathe for home use. I ordered a PM 1228 I should be getting it in a few weeks. I did also order the stand for it.
  Now on to the problem at hand, leveling AND TAKING THE TWIST OUT OF THE WAYS. why capital letters because the twist in the ways is what is causing the lathe to cut a taper. Why ? lets look at an industrial lathe, like the 16" one here in my workplace it is probably a 4,000lb machine cast iron base rock solid, a machine like this will not have twist in the ways because of it's size, weight, and construction. a bench lathe or one that is in the 500lbs or smaller class is not as ridged and will flex and vibrate in use. So how you mount it is something to think about.
  Now lets stick with the pm1228 the stand is two sheet metal cabinets joined together by a sheet metal the chip pan goes on top, and the lathe is bolted down. The floor of my garage is not level, so first thing in my plan is to get the stand level. So my first step is I plan to put leveling feet on the stand. I got them at enco . now there are about 50 different ways people have mounted some sort of leveling feet to what ever they put the lathe on. I looked at the lathe here at work and decided to mount 4 feet on the side of the stand that goes under the head stock, and just 2 on the side that goes under the tail stock. 
    First thing is I will try to get the stand as level as possible, the feet have a 1/2-13 thread on them, not a good choice for precision leveling. so like I said get the stand level, mount the lathe and see where it is. I plan on using a lathe inspection bar, and a precision level, more details on the tools later. With an indicator I will check run out and how level the ways are with the level. I am think i will have to get things at dead zero by shimming up under the feet of the lathe bed, and then bolting it down.  That is the plan I will make videos and post them on you tube, and here if it does not break any rules


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## Enderw88 (May 13, 2016)

Yes.  Leveling the lathe is my principle concern.  Starting at the floor. I was hoping to be able to building some sort of semi mobile base for it, but the more I think about the less that seems compatible with leveling the lathe properly.  The 12x36 stand seems pretty beefy and I the the answer to my concern about losing all of the storage volume benathe the lathe is to build in some shelfing between the two cabinets.  It looks like there is a piece of sheet metal between two columns that doesn't serve much purpose.  Replace that with some shelving.


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## sanddan (May 14, 2016)

Enderw88 said:


> Yes.  Leveling the lathe is my principle concern.  Starting at the floor. I was hoping to be able to building some sort of semi mobile base for it, but the more I think about the less that seems compatible with leveling the lathe properly.  The 12x36 stand seems pretty beefy and I the the answer to my concern about losing all of the storage volume benathe the lathe is to build in some shelfing between the two cabinets.  It looks like there is a piece of sheet metal between two columns that doesn't serve much purpose.  Replace that with some shelving.



The sheet metal piece between the columns is there to add stiffness and prevent the stand from racking.


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## Bamban (May 14, 2016)

Enderw88 said:


> It looks like there is a piece of sheet metal between two columns that doesn't serve much purpose.  Replace that with some shelving.




That is exactly what I did with my ACER 1236. Using unistruts bolted to the cabinets I bolted 2 shelves 3/8 steel plates on to the unistruts, basically rigidly connecting the 2 cabidets. One shelf is at the bottom and another halfway up. The bottom shelf is the repository for the huge Bridgeport rotary table and the 8 inch self entering Bison vise, both of which added way over a hundred pounds. The middle shelf holds the Kennedy tool box on one side and the other half holds the barrel drops and other steel materials.

Inside the cabinets I installed steel plates as well, this is where I store my other chucks on one side and more steel materials on the other cabinet

Overall I added ample weight to the stand as well as rigidity.


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## koba49 (May 26, 2016)

I have some photos of the PM 1228VF













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__ May 25, 2016
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