# Adventures in my new-to-me Enco Lathe



## mkelly (Jun 29, 2020)

Following up on my intro post here: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/my-first-new-to-me-lathe.85003/

I'd been searching craigslist for a while for a decent lathe frame and this 1980 Enco 92030 popped up for $600 and jumped at the opportunity. Included a fair bit of parts, 3 jaw, 4 jaw, drill chuck, dead centers, live centers, etc. Not really any tooling but with the tool post will fit up to 5/8" so I grabbed some HSS tools to get started.

It was pretty grimy when I got it so I decided to clean up as much as I could easily access before bringing it in the house. Here's some pictures from the listing:










Getting it through my bulkhead was very precarious. I need to figure out some sort of hoist setup to make lowering heavy pieces into the basement more safely, but the engine lift did it's job.


And here it is on it's way to it's new home. 





Table cleaned and assembled:



Finally bolted back in place. The speed control setup is still pretty grimy and the gearbox is full of belt wear chunks, but that's a problem for future me.








With it home it's time to start getting it running...


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## mkelly (Jun 29, 2020)

Running into a few main issues. Some electrical bugs, motor mount/belt tension, and oil ports.

I noticed during cleaning almost all the oil ports are damaged or missing. Which I guess is good that they were well used, but frustrating they couldn't have pressed in a new one?



On the carriage they just put cap screws in the holes to prevent gunk. Would explain the gouge in the ways.




The motor was replaced at some point and so they had to do the weird sideways mount. There's currently no way to maintain tension so I'll need to either tension it mounted sideways, or figure out a way to lower the motor mount slightly to use the existing mechanism.

How it was when I got it, tensioned only by gravity





I can see why since you can't get it under properly due to the capacitor location. If I can fit it there I'd need a new belt anyways.




I struggled for a while to get the wiring running. The contactor wasn't latching on either side. I decided to draw out the schematic to understand what was going on with it better. While probing it the rev direction started latching, but the fwd is still not latching and just buzzes. I'm really worried I need to open up the reversing contactor and clean it (obviously unpowered and deenergized etc) I'm also thinking about putting on an E-stop power button instead of the switch they must have added at some point. Probably an LED power button as well.






Is the jog (MIN) button worth wiring? it doesn't seem to currently be wired properly, I think they replaced the power switch at some point and when they set it back up that didn't get connected properly. Would explain the two spare wires in the conduit which are currently capped.


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## DAT510 (Jun 29, 2020)

Mkelly, Welcome to H-M.

Your lathe looks likes it's part of the JET-1024/1236 family of lathes.  They were branded under a number of names (Jet, Lam, Tida, Lantine and Grizzly) to name just a few.  

Here's the link to the Grizzly Manual:  https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g9249_m.pdf
In the Downloads section there are manuals from the other branded lathes (Under the Jet Section) https://www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/categories/jet-except-grinders.636/

On my Jet-1024, the motor is hinged base which uses the weight of the motor to tension the belt.  Looking at the Grizzly manual it appears they use a modified version of the hinged base with the addition of a "Tensioning" bolt, though it looks like it would more likely be used to raise the base plate (reduce tension) than apply (pull down) tension.  

Re: the jog button.... (this is the first version of these lathes that I've seen, that had a jog feature from the factory).  I guess it depends on how what you use the lathe for.  I believe Member Bamban added a jog to his Jet-1024 lathe, for the gun smithing work he does.  

Mcmaster Carr sells replacement Ball Oilers https://www.mcmaster.com/ball-oilers/oil-fittings-for-unthreaded-holes/

Hope this helps.


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## mkelly (Jun 29, 2020)

Thanks very much DAT510, I had found the manual/grizzly part number from macardoso's rebuild thread, which has been immensely helpful. Doesn't seem like there's much hope for finding this exact model's manual based on internet search, but being able to source from grizzly will be great. 

Here's how grizzly shows the motor tension adjustment. 


They have the hinge on the opposite side, but based on the hole in the motor mount my lathe should work the same


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## NCjeeper (Jun 29, 2020)

12x36?


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## Larry$ (Jun 29, 2020)

I could read the size on the name plate, 12 X 36, a decent size. I would wire the jog button. I find it useful. Very easy to do so why not? Lots of cleaning, oil changes, adjustments ahead. The auxiliary contact on the contactor may be the problem of not latching. Hard to see in the photo but is the reversing side of the contactor wired through the aux contact? Nice that it has a contactor that can also be used for 3 phase if you ever need to.  I wonder if that machine was 3 phase to start with and someone cobbled the cap start motor on.


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## mkelly (Jun 30, 2020)

NCjeeper said:


> 12x36?





Larry$ said:


> I could read the size on the name plate, 12 X 36, a decent size. I would wire the jog button. I find it useful. Very easy to do so why not? Lots of cleaning, oil changes, adjustments ahead. The auxiliary contact on the contactor may be the problem of not latching. Hard to see in the photo but is the reversing side of the contactor wired through the aux contact? Nice that it has a contactor that can also be used for 3 phase if you ever need to.  I wonder if that machine was 3 phase to start with and someone cobbled the cap start motor on.


Yup 12x36". I'll definitely look into the jogb button. Does the jog act as a power bypass like this this is wired up? Meaning it only "jogs" if the power is switched off and the direction lever is enabled

I've attached the PDF of the schematic I drew, but here the closeup for the control panel to hopefully show what I mean.





For the contactor, it's currently the purple side that's not latching. I tried a jumper wire directly onto the solenoid input,, but it just buzzes. Here's a video I took looking over the wiring (powered down in case anyone is worried). I don't have great access to the neutral wire, but since the orange side is second in line, and is working, I don't suspect a neutral issue. I'm thinking of just reseating all the wires as a sanity check since pull tests are coming up fruitless. Any other thoughts would be helpful. I'll go grab a video of the buzz

View attachment video_2020-06-30_11-17-30.mp4


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## mkelly (Jul 27, 2020)

Been pretty busy on a home project lately, but the past couple days I've made some progress on the lathe. 

I noted that the motor on the lathe was a 3/4HP but after looking around it seemed the original lathe probably came with a 2hp or maybe a 1.5hp. Since it didn't fit anyways, I wanted to get a motor that would fit in the correct orientation under the belt housing.



The grizzly replacement for the lathe claimed to only be 220V and while I intend on going to 220V feed, I liked the option for 110. Thus I decided to opt for their heavy duty enclosed motor. I did buy an OEM replacement for the belt, but apparently it was still too long. Oh well.






The next thing to solve was the contactor. I decided to take off the cover and discovered a film of grease on the contactor pads. Cleaned that off and now there's no issues with the contactors. 







The 2HP motor has quite a punch and definitely won't run into any stall issues I don't foresee. But while trying to "slow things down" I discovered that my back gear is missing the 24T gear on it. I'm not sure why they removed it/didn't replace it, but because the 3/4hp was running at half speed they probably didn't need the low gears anyways.




I have a tachometer on the way to measure the output RPM. It feels too fast to me, but we'll see what it shows. I also ordered a replacement for the back gear, hoping it fits without issue.


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## Larry$ (Jul 30, 2020)

You will definitely want slow speeds. Threading and face plate turning of things way out of balance come to mind. 
My lathe came with 3hp but I don't think I've ever used that much. I am prone to getting in a hurry and taking pretty serious cuts to rough some steel out. Interesting how so many old gear trains were just open and used a dab of grease. How are axial loads handled?


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## mkelly (Jul 30, 2020)

Larry$ said:


> You will definitely want slow speeds. Threading and face plate turning of things way out of balance come to mind.
> My lathe came with 3hp but I don't think I've ever used that much. I am prone to getting in a hurry and taking pretty serious cuts to rough some steel out. Interesting how so many old gear trains were just open and used a dab of grease. How are axial loads handled?


Yeah I ordered a replacement back gear from grizzly that I'm hoping will drop right in. It should based on what I'm seeing in the documents. Oil is pretty minimal on the headstock, just the bearing ends and the powerfeed.

The headstock shaft has angular contact bearings on either end:



I made some cuts the other night and it was struggling on much depth, caused it to slow down. I'm worried I'll need to replace the belt on the gearing to get all the power, but without the back gear it's hard to say.

It also trips my 20A breaker so I need to swap over a 220v before really using it a lot.


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## Papa Charlie (Jul 31, 2020)

Dual voltage motors, while they are capable of running on two voltages rarely have any torque in the lower voltage and end up putting a real strain on the motor and the electrical circuit. You will be much happier if you go with 220V single phase.


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## mkelly (Aug 4, 2020)

Well a bit of an update, not really a good one either

Here's at least a picture of a cut. I'm realizing now there was better speeds for me to have used, but it's not too terrible considering the circumstances



Now onto the bad news.

1) I decided I ordered the wrong RPM from the motor. According to the grizzly manual for the g9249 it should have been a 1725RPM, not a 3450. I assume this is true for the 92030 but with maybe a 1.5hp motor instead.

2) My drive pulley is inverted, I think... I need to spend some time wrapping my head around what's going on, but in the morning. The issue is that the B side is increasing in speed instead of decreasing.

Here are the speeds I'm supposed to be getting (ignored the back Gear speeds):




And here's my results
AC 1280
Ad 1120
AE 870
*BC 2500*
*BD 2060
BE 1580*


Basing the image in the diagram against the pulley setup, everything appears correct, but clearly it isn't.  Only other thinking is that some pulley got replaced at some point.

In other fun news the back gear didn't come with a key so I'll have to wait for that to come now, but apparently I may also be waiting for a new motor while trying to sell this old one...


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## Papa Charlie (Aug 4, 2020)

Your right, looking at your image in Post #2, your pulleys on the motor DON'T appear to be backwards. But the drive pulleys in Post #8 do appear to be on backwards.


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## Alcap (Aug 4, 2020)

Just a thought on the 3400 rpm motor , what if you got a 3 or 4 grove pulley that's just a little smaller then the large size of the one that's on it , maybe make the motor mount adjustable side to side or an easy way to slide the pulley on the motor shaft , then you would have a very nice range of speeds if the headstock bearings can handle it


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## mkelly (Aug 4, 2020)

Measured the pulley diameters to run the numbers and figure out what's up. The motor pulley was definitely on backwards when I got it.

Here's the configuration I'm currently running



And this would be the correct configuration:



Meaning they also replaced the pulley from a 4" and 2" to a 4" and 3"

The idea of using a smaller pulley but keeping the motor the same is interesting but in order to get into the same sort of low end range I'd need a pulley with a diameter of 20mm. Smallest stepped pulley you can conceivably get for a 5/8" shaft is 1 3/4". I bit the bullet and ordered a 1725rpm 1-1/2hp  like it probably had originally and will either repurpose the 3450rpm 2hp or try and sell it to get some of the money back. I also ordered a pulley with 4, 3, and 2" sizes


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## mkelly (Aug 5, 2020)

Had a change of heart partway through the day. Canceled the shipment for the motor and I'm going to see what I can figure out first. Then I tried canceling the mcmaster pulley but I guess they're sending it anyways and don't want it back. Thanks guys.

I see now that the previous owner had faced off a similar 3 step pulley to make it fit, hence why it was a 4" and 3". I'm tempted to just buy the motor and pulley for the grizzly g9249 but there's no documentation on it so it's a guess if it will fit. Need to see what other options there are.

I got the back gear apart after some coercion of the oil bushings to see about the fitment on the back gear. Definitely not going to fit. The grizzly is a 58x21 and I counted that the large gear on my back gear is 52. I don't know for certain what the small gear on the original backgear was, but I'm guessing 21 by how close the 22 came to fitting. This led me to a Jet 3211 series lathes which uses a backgear that looks about the same, but the only place I found it was this store that seems a bit questionable: https://www.toolpartspro.com/jet-parts/jet-321110-parts/jet-04109a-gear




The small pinion on the grizzly was rubbing into the pulley at best.


The big buy wouldn't have fit at all



Here you can see the obvious size difference:



If anyone has any opinions between buying a cheap 1 phase VFD from china or swapping for a correct 1725RPM motor I'd be interested in hearing them.

Mike


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## Papa Charlie (Aug 5, 2020)

mkelly said:


> Had a change of heart partway through the day. Canceled the shipment for the motor and I'm going to see what I can figure out first. Then I tried canceling the mcmaster pulley but I guess they're sending it anyways and don't want it back. Thanks guys.
> 
> I see now that the previous owner had faced off a similar 3 step pulley to make it fit, hence why it was a 4" and 3". I'm tempted to just buy the motor and pulley for the grizzly g9249 but there's no documentation on it so it's a guess if it will fit. Need to see what other options there are.
> 
> ...



I can go out to storage and measure what ever you need on my G9249 if you let me know exactly what you need.


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## mkelly (Aug 5, 2020)

Papa Charlie said:


> I can go out to storage and measure what ever you need on my G9249 if you let me know exactly what you need.


Motor shaft length and diameter, then the width spacing for the screw holes:




Thanks!


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## Papa Charlie (Aug 5, 2020)

mkelly said:


> Motor shaft length and diameter, then the width spacing for the screw holes:
> 
> View attachment 332608
> 
> ...



Will get that for you either this Friday or Saturday.


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## Papa Charlie (Aug 7, 2020)

OK, I got out to storage today and made the measurements. These are for my motor and my G9249 which I purchased in 2000.

As you can see the layout is very different, my numbers are shown in red.


Here is an image of the plate on my motor.



Here is an image of my motor pulleys.


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## mkelly (Aug 7, 2020)

Papa Charlie said:


> OK, I got out to storage today and made the measurements. These are for my motor and my G9249 which I purchased in 2000.
> 
> As you can see the layout is very different, my numbers are shown in red.
> View attachment 332866
> ...



Thanks, super helpful. I think I'm going to hold off on more G9249 parts and see about maybe jet parts at replacements.  The JET BD-1336T seems to be a pretty close make, but that's been tough to verify has replacements.

There's the BDB1340 which looks to be a modernized equivalent and that uses a BDB1340-MP pulley that may work. According to the info it has a 19mm ID which makes sense from what I'm seeing. I'm going to order one and hopefully this toolpartspro website doesn't take as long as the reviews indicate.  Then when I get it figure out what motor fits best.


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## Papa Charlie (Aug 7, 2020)

Glad that it helps. Always fun trying to figure this stuff out.

If you really want a new motor, I would go to Grainger and see what they can match up for you. Motors conform to NEMA standards, meaning that a specific NEMA Frame number, regardless of who the motor comes from will bolt into the same NEMA Frame number.

What I find interesting is that the diagram on my lathe for speed adjustment shows the larger pulley on the motor is on the outside. But as you can see in the picture above the larger pulley is on the inside. My speeds work well but changing from the A to the B configuration is a pain in the backside. So much so, I think I have actually done it once. To make it worse, there is a cover over the motor pulleys that you have to remove to make the switch.


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## mkelly (Aug 9, 2020)

Papa Charlie said:


> If you really want a new motor, I would go to Grainger and see what they can match up for you. Motors conform to NEMA standards, meaning that a specific NEMA Frame number, regardless of who the motor comes from will bolt into the same NEMA Frame number.


After doing the conversion do we think it's likely that the pulley is 22mm? It's basically 7/8" but the only motors I was seeing on grizzly's list that uses 7/8" were 3HP, but I realize now it could have been this 22mm shaft.








						Motor 2 HP Single-Phase 1725 RPM TEFC 220V at Grizzly.com
					

Taking our incredible buying power with us, we went to one of the top motor manufacturers and asked them to build the absolute best motor they could. We told them not to worry about the price, just quality. We are very pleased to offer this exceptionally high quality motor at a discount price...




					www.grizzly.com
				





I guess the way to tell is if the Key is 7mm or 5mm.

I keep going back and forth on what the best thing to do is. I was tempted by the JET replacement but it's about $100 more expensive than the grizzly, and having given it some more thought I feel pretty comfortable with the grizzly originals.

That is weird on the lathe pulleys. I didn't find it too challenging to change speeds, but perhaps because my pulleys were inverted the step change wasn't much


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## mkelly (Aug 14, 2020)

Ok wow this pulley looks absolutely nothing like yours. Maybe it's the wrong part? I used the word adventures tongue in cheek at the start, but man this is an adventure in annoyances.


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## Larry$ (Aug 14, 2020)

Since your lathe has a three step pulley, seems extremely likely that the motor pulley should be also. Step pulleys are almost always installed so the belt runs from the larger diameter to the smaller diameter in reverse order. That way the CC distance remains fairly constant. "normal" orientation of the pulley steps on the motor are to have the smallest away from the body of the motor. Makes changing speeds a little easier. When you position the motor try to get the belts to run parallel to the grooves in the pulley so it doesn't rub more on one side than the other. The photo showing two grooves the same size is likely used for a two belt drive, common on larger horse power applications. Especially when small diameter pulleys are being used.


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## mkelly (Aug 15, 2020)

The motor side only have two pulley grooves for speeds.

I agree with you on the pulley alignment. Makes sense to me that you'd want to keep you CC consistent but for some reason that's now how the math works to get the speeds they specify, unless their top end speeds are not accurate:

Reminder of what the speeds should be:
AC    1250
AD    950
AE    730
BC    530
BD    400
BE    310

and here's what they'd calculate out to. The gap between AE and BC is too small, AC doesn't get high enough and BE is faster





These numbers make more sense when you add in a bit of drag, they'd work out almost perfectly to the specified values. But the step change is all wrong for easy swapping between the motor pulleys


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## mkelly (Aug 15, 2020)

Larry$ said:


> The photo showing two grooves the same size is likely used for a two belt drive, common on larger horse power applications. Especially when small diameter pulleys are being used.



Yeah it's just supposed to look like what Papa Charlie posted with the two steps



Papa Charlie said:


> Here is an image of my motor pulleys.
> View attachment 332867




And what the grizzly manual shows for the part:




I'm hoping it was a mistake on grizzly's part but maybe I'm just destined to not be able to find replacement parts for this chunk of steel


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## BMLLC (Aug 15, 2020)

mkelly - I feel your pain, I am going through trying to figure out the same motor pulley issue as you.  My used G9249 came with a replacement Baldor motor that only has a single 3.625" pulley on the motor drive shaft, and I'm trying to get back to a step pulley setup.

The pulley you got from Grizzly is the same pulley they just sent me this week for my G9249.  It is obviously the wrong pulley; Papa Charlie's picture clarifies that.  I have an email into Grizzly's tech support, we'll see what they say, but I'm pretty sure someone in the labeling/packaging department was not on their game.

The picture of your speed chart in post #12 depicts the pulley on your motor drive shaft how it came installed on your lathe was correct, but the chart depicts the idler pulley for the motor drive belt flipped around from how it is installed in your lathe from your picture in post #8.  

The Grizzly speed chart depicts the idler pulley for the motor belt as it comes installed in the lathe, but the speed chart depicts the pulley on the motor drive shaft flipped around from Papa Charlie's picture and how it is pictured in the parts diagram.  It's like the guy drawing the speed charts and the guy installing the pulleys had no communication with each other.  So which one wasn't doing their job correctly?

To make matters worse, look at the picture on page 35 of the Grizzly G9249 manual.  It is captioned "Motor V-Belt in "B" position".  Now look at the spindle speed configuration chart on page 34.  It sure looks like the motor v-belt in the picture on page 35 is in the "A" position according to the chart on page 34.  So is the caption for the picture on page 35 correct or is the speed chart correct?

We'll see what Grizzly says, but right now I'm leaning towards just getting a cheap tachometer and a set of 2" and 4" pulleys for the motor shaft and seeing what configuration gets me close to the speed chart...that is if the speed chart is even correct???

Please let us know if you come up with a solution on your end.  Thanks - Owen


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## Papa Charlie (Aug 15, 2020)

I think they may have sent you the wrong pulley. The purpose of having the two sizes of pulleys is to allow for movement from one pulley set to the other and maintain the belt tension.


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## Larry$ (Aug 15, 2020)

It might be easier to just figure out the ratios for yourself. Gears are easiest because it is just the tooth count. V belt pulleys need to be figured using the pitch diameter rather than the outside diameter. But you can come close enough by just using about 3/8" of an inch less than the OD or the pulley. Or you can look the pitch diameters up on a site that sells belts & sheaves to industrial customers. 

It would be pretty easy to set up a spread sheet and work your way backward from the speed chart.


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## mkelly (Aug 20, 2020)

BMLLC said:


> Please let us know if you come up with a solution on your end.  Thanks - Owen


Grizzly just responded that the part was indeed wrong, but that they don't have stock available. So I'm back to trying to find a pulley...


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## BMLLC (Aug 20, 2020)

mkelly said:


> Grizzly just responded that the part was indeed wrong, but that they don't have stock available. So I'm back to trying to find a pulley...



I heard back from Grizzly as well.  They did confirm that it was the wrong pulley, and I already have a return shipping label and return authorization # to send it back.

Vince C. in tech support is who I dealt with.  He said their files indicated that the large pulley on the motor was supposed to be 95mm OD and the small pulley 63mm OD.  He was unsure of pitch diameters.

I measured all my pulleys and did the math at pitch diameters as Larry$ suggested.  My motor is 1725 rpm, not the 1750 rpm listed in the manual (and notice how Papa Charlie's is 1730 rpm???), so I used 1725 rpm in my calcs.  I came up with needing a small pulley with a pitch diameter of roughly 51mm and a large pulley with a pitch diameter of roughly 79mm.  

51mm is roughly 2" pitch diameter.  Electricmotorwarehouse.com had a 2.1" pitch diameter and a 2.5" OD (very close to the 63mm Grizzly specified) with the correct bore and key dimension I need, which gets me as close as I could find for a small pulley.  I already had a pulley on my motor with a pitch diameter of 85mm, which is pretty close to the 79mm pitch diameter I calculated, so I'll just use that in conjunction with the new 2.5" OD pulley that should be in here Saturday, and I should be right about where I want to be with speeds.

Vince also confirmed that the pulley should be installed on the motor the way it is pictured on Papa Charlie's lathe, not how it was installed on your Enco.  This is the orientation that I figured may calcs on too.

So if I were in your shoes, I would get a 2.5" OD and a 3.75" OD pulley and install it like it is pictured on Papa Charlie's lathe.  Hope that helps?


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## Papa Charlie (Aug 20, 2020)

I think if you look around you can find a 2 step pulley that will come pretty close. Here is one example on Ebay of a 2"x3" Pulley with a 1/2" bore.

2 Step V-Belt Pully


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## Larry$ (Aug 20, 2020)

I agree with Papa that you should probably use a two step pulley since the hubs may interfere with getting either both on the shaft or belt to align. I don't thing a bit of variation makes much difference to the lathe in actual use. All lathes are somewhat different in their speeds. Google two step pulley. Bet you can find the correct bore and approximate diameter needed. Cast iron would be better than die-cast.


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## mkelly (Aug 23, 2020)

Problem I was having is finding the exact match, and the ones that were close tended to be lightweight cast and so modifying them wouldn't leave a lot of material left. I also really want the 4" size so it's been difficult. 

I recently got a new job and access to a machine shop with an on staff machinist I can talk to about it. My plan now is to modify the pulley that I got with the lathe that has a 4" and 3" steps. I scratched it with a file easily so it's not hardened. Since I have the other pulley to measure off of I'll just copy the profile and dimensions.




	

		
			
		

		
	
I'll probably need to buy a broach to cut the keyway.

I'm not 100% sure what's going on with this key/collar setup, but it looks like it should just press out



Though I'm tempted now to return the motor I just bought that has a 24mm shaft (or maybe 15/16" I need to mic it) for one with a 22mm or 7/8" which seem to be more common. Especially since they hosed me on the pulley I think I can get them to pay


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## mkelly (Aug 31, 2020)

Update on how things are progressing:  


	

		
			
		

		
	
Machinist just finished the pulley modifications to the new 24mm motor shaft. Committed to the motor now, but at least I should be able to get low end speeds again. Also received a shipping notice that my toolpartspro order for the back gear. Will get in today so hopeful this one fits without issue and I can resolve that issue.

Last thing to figure out besides a new power cable is how to wire up the motor, and I'm thoroughly confused by the documentation.

In the manual for the comparison grizzly this is what they show:



I zoomed in on the motor plate and here's a comparison between the two:



I see a few differences, such as how Z2, U2, and V1 are tied together in both directions in the manual, but on mine they need to be jumpered differently. (Note the jumpering on mine/bottom was how it was received. I'll need to modify it when I figure out how to wire.

If anyone has any insight into if I can follow the manual's wiring or if I need to change something please let me know (Larry maybe?) I'll spend some more time thinking about the logic, but reversing wiring is confusing. 

Mike


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## Larry$ (Aug 31, 2020)

As your motor came the jumpers are set for "clockwise" rotation. Following the diagram  to reverse all you need to do is move the jumpers like show for anti- CW. Your power in, usually called "Line"are the two lines coming in from the bottom of the diagram. If this is for a 208/220 motor no neutral is  used. The green wire, Ground, (green or yellow with green stripe,) goes to the screw with the little tab with the red markings. The feed from your motor control (switch) goes to the hookup shown as the two wires on the bottom of the diagram. Crimp some terminal ends on the wires if they are stranded. It pays to use the correct tools for wiring. One of the combination stripper, cutter, crimpers will work from the big box stores. A box of assorted wire terminals, will usually include hook, eye & splice with insulated crimp ends. Dedicated crimping pliers are nicer to work with but cost more. If you work on controls or motors with small, very fine leads, you will want to get a set of terminal crimp sleeves for inserting into the terminal connection blocks. Always use the correct sizes for the wire. using the wrong size will make for a poor connection. There are also solder terminals and heat shrink tube if you want to go that way. Always use solder meant for wiring, never any acid flux. You should be able to find good info on line. 

As your shop grows and you get more advanced tools it will pay to learn about controls and wiring. Way cheaper to DIY than have a tech come in. Most electricians are not qualified to do even simple control wiring, I can tell you why, sometime.


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## pontiac428 (Aug 31, 2020)

Just a note on the Fenner drive belt- orient the belt so "the tails follow".  This will affect grip and noise level.  Try it out next time you think about it.


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## mkelly (Aug 31, 2020)

Larry$ said:


> As your motor came the jumpers are set for "clockwise" rotation. Following the diagram  to reverse all you need to do is move the jumpers like show for anti- CW. Your power in, usually called "Line"are the two lines coming in from the bottom of the diagram. If this is for a 208/220 motor no neutral is  used. The green wire, Ground, (green or yellow with green stripe,) goes to the screw with the little tab with the red markings. The feed from your motor control (switch) goes to the hookup shown as the two wires on the bottom of the diagram. Crimp some terminal ends on the wires if they are stranded. It pays to use the correct tools for wiring. One of the combination stripper, cutter, crimpers will work from the big box stores. A box of assorted wire terminals, will usually include hook, eye & splice with insulated crimp ends. Dedicated crimping pliers are nicer to work with but cost more. If you work on controls or motors with small, very fine leads, you will want to get a set of terminal crimp sleeves for inserting into the terminal connection blocks. Always use the correct sizes for the wire. using the wrong size will make for a poor connection. There are also solder terminals and heat shrink tube if you want to go that way. Always use solder meant for wiring, never any acid flux. You should be able to find good info on line.
> 
> As your shop grows and you get more advanced tools it will pay to learn about controls and wiring. Way cheaper to DIY than have a tech come in. Most electricians are not qualified to do even simple control wiring, I can tell you why, sometime.


Oh yeah I'm set up on wire terminals and recently "splurged" on a ratcheting. I engineer robots professionally so this is in my wheel house. Thinking about two logic states at once is just not something I do very often so I've been slow and cautious working it through.

Here's where I'm at with the wiring but I just don't see how it will work based on what the manual shows for the wiring  This is wired in supposedly the way they specify




For starters the motor won't change direction if there's a permanent short between u2 and v1 so I'm pretty certain that bar is wrong.

I'll draw out the wiring in cad a bit more and maybe things will become clearer




pontiac428 said:


> Just a note on the Fenner drive belt- orient the belt so "the tails follow".  This will affect grip and noise level.  Try it out next time you think about it.


great tip thanks!


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## mkelly (Sep 1, 2020)

Combined and cleaned up the manual's wiring diagram to be a bit clearer:




Going to recreate this image for my motor as well.

Also it looks like the back gear will work but I'm only getting ~75% engagement with the teeth which annoys me. I'm just never going to find the right back gear I fear.



Here's how it compares to the old one

It's a little thicker on the size of the gear: 


Spacing from gear to gear looks a little more than what it came with:


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## mkelly (Sep 21, 2020)

An overdue update for everyone. In good news, the lathe and mechanics are now all running more or less. There's a few minor things to resolve before it can be run for long periods. 

First up is the pulley on the lathe. Very tight fit and had to mallet it on to the shaft. Already tested out the low RPMs and measured very close to expected. I also had to make a modification to the motor capacitor cover to fit in the motor mount. Of course they didn't provide dimensions for this motor and it didn't fit.





I ordered an additional length of belt to have a different length for the other pulley combination. Figured that was the easiest way to get me the speeds easily.


The back gear is in, and the first part on the lathe is the spacer I needed for the backgear I bought. This gear was for a Jet lathe and has the right teeth profile, but the size and spacing is just a little bit off. You can see the gap in the first photo where the gear would shift.


Here's the spacer in place.


You can also see the sacrifice I've had to make in teeth engagement. It makes me pretty worried but I think it will work as expected.



Hard to tell, but it's biased such that more of the small gear makes contact.

I'm trying to decide if I red grease the back gear teeth or just some white lithium spray.

The next thing I'm tackling is ball oilers and grease fittings. The back gear was missing a zerk fitting, As you can seen in my other picture they had just thrown a set screw in when they ruined the last back gear. I ordered a few ball oilers from McMaster and 10 from Grizzly since they were so much cheaper.

The wiring was a bit annoying to figure out, but it's running and in a good state. I should have checked more closely on the contactor I had, who knew a solenoid running at 4x the power wouldn't last very long? 


No big loss as that contactor was already a bit questionable, and upgrading to some automation direct ones was only ~$23/ea. Now I have a contactor set actually rated for 240v.


	

		
			
		

		
	
I think only other thing to do on the wiring is replace the light with a working one that runs off the right voltage. I'm tempted to add an estop button but I think that will have to wait for a new electrical cabinet.

I'm pretty excited it's all running. The gearbox sounds very metal on metal so I'm avoiding running that until I can do a teardown and rebuild of it. The other big thing is that the whole thing shakes quite a bit. There's not much weight in the base and I think that's most of it, but I'm thinking I should also look into some ground supports or something

I set up my collet draw bar for cleaning and got it nice and polished up:





I could use some advice on how to use the draw bar items in the front of the face plate.



Thanks for checking in.


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## Mississippi333 (Nov 13, 2020)

mkelly said:


> An overdue update for everyone. In good news, the lathe and mechanics are now all running more or less. There's a few minor things to resolve before it can be run for long periods.
> 
> First up is the pulley on the lathe. Very tight fit and had to mallet it on to the shaft. Already tested out the low RPMs and measured very close to expected. I also had to make a modification to the motor capacitor cover to fit in the motor mount. Of course they didn't provide dimensions for this motor and it didn't fit.
> View attachment 337833
> ...


On the back gear spacing: 
On my lathe which is a United Machinery, and as far as I can tell it is identical in every way to yours. If so, I'll be referencing the outboard bushing that support the backgear shaft. On mine all that secures it in the headstock is a set screw. So while it will leave a "dish" that will be visible on the outside of your headstock, you should be able to slide said bushing inward to take the unwanted spacing out and lock it down with set screws. Mine doesn't even have dimples to locate the set screws so it shouldn't matter either way. If you need any measurements, pictures or new slurs to hurl at it, just let me know. It's like I told my wife when she asked why I had worked/still piddlin with mine so much, these types can be a PITR but it ain't a pill or a pipe and I ain't running up and down the road all night flirting with women and danger. We gotta have something to do


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## Larry$ (Nov 13, 2020)

" The other big thing is that the whole thing shakes quite a bit."  
That's a sign that something is out of balance. Generally not good for bearings. It could be caused by a bad bearing also. You can use a mechanic's stethoscope &/or an infrared thermometer to check individual bearings while they run.


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## Mikesweb (Dec 26, 2020)

Rather than changing belts/pulleys, has anyone thought about wiring in a VFD and then just leave the pulleys on the highest speed setting and using the VFD for speed changes?


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## mkelly (Jan 1, 2021)

Mississippi333 said:


> So while it will leave a "dish" that will be visible on the outside of your headstock, you should be able to slide said bushing inward to take the unwanted spacing out and lock it down with set screws.


 Yeah i tried that. Because I had to slide it so far in it wasn't really working on for the spacing. The spacer "works" but I've been thinking more and more about splitting my new gear and joining the old one with the new one. Though I'm not sure it's really "necessary" if I go ahead with a VFD.

Definitely a good way to kill time, and money  Thankfully this last year's been good for me so I'm feeling pretty comfortable these days



Larry$ said:


> " The other big thing is that the whole thing shakes quite a bit."
> That's a sign that something is out of balance. Generally not good for bearings. It could be caused by a bad bearing also. You can use a mechanic's stethoscope &/or an infrared thermometer to check individual bearings while they run.


Good advice. I think there's a bad bearing in the headstock unfortunately. But I'll pick up a mechanics stethoscope so I can suss it out.



Mikesweb said:


> Rather than changing belts/pulleys, has anyone thought about wiring in a VFD and then just leave the pulleys on the highest speed setting and using the VFD for speed changes?


It's on my to-do list. I especially love how quiet it is when it's in belt mode, so avoiding using the backgear is worth the investment in a VFD. Initially I just wanted to get it running, but after cutting some steel the other day I really can't stand the noise from the backgear

Just decided I'd try this ATO: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089PWJ3MG?psc=1 wish me luck



Next up on my hitlist is rebuilding the X axis slide. It has a ton of backlash in it and I think it's causing some issues with cutting. At least i hope that's what happened because otherwise I have some issues on the ways.

I did get my phase 2 tool post installed. The stock clocking one was cool but couldn't adjust height at all.

Anyways here's the dowel pin I turned down to fix the one that broke in my miter gauge. I tried turning one in 303 stainless and I forgot how much I hated machining stainless. Unable to part it off. Steel is fine though...

Parting it off. Using some steel I cut from drink holders you stake in the ground hence the red coating.


Parted off. Lots of chatter.


Test fit before face and chamfer. Aligns well and enough interference for the press.



Hit it with some 240grit sandpaper to try and improve the surface finish. It's acceptable.



All pressed in:


"Fixed"  Not quite a perfect fit but good enough.



Will update on how the X axis rebuild goes.


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