# Show us your "Heavy 10" (10L or 10R) &  tell us about it!



## HMF

We take great pride in our machines!

This is the thread to post photos of your South Bend "Heavy 10" lathes, 10L or 10R, show "before" and "after photos of the great job of restoration you have done, and basically make our mouths water with the tooling and accessories you have accumulated for your machine.

A picture is worth a thousand words, but some captions would be awfully nice too!

So come on....let's see what you got!


Best,

Nelson


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## aametalmaster

*Re: Show us your Heavy 10! 10L or 10R and tell us about it!*

My 1941 10L 4 1/2' bed. USN model sold to GE in Ft Wayne Ind. It came with a collet closer and the USN sn was the same on the lathe as the collet closer. It has the metal cabinet which i didn't like and left it in Mich where i bought the lathe. I have since bought the cast iron bell and cast leg for the right side. I don't have any tooling except for a hundred pounds of stuff that was in the drawer including 6 lantern tool holders and a brand new set of half nuts. I have a new Grizzly 3/4 hp motor installed with a aametalmaster made pulley in the bell end but i haven't put it all together. I want to get the bed ground or planed since it is so bad. But for now it is just in storage in my basement...Bob


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## aametalmaster

*Re: Show us your Heavy 10! 10L or 10R and tell us about it!*

I don't know how far i will rebuild it. I might just put it together and run it. I don't need to do all my work on this one machine since i have 3 more SBL's but i do like the big spindle hole. Its a great start and i always wanted one...Bob


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## aametalmaster

*Re: Show us your Heavy 10! 10L or 10R and tell us about it!*



			
				knudsen link=topic=15.msg91#msg91 date=1285634121 said:
			
		

> Or do an all out museum quality rebuild, but that would have to be after I retire... a long time from now.


I don't know which one i will make pretty. My 10K, 10L or 1919 15" I prob will just use them all. I would like to have a little JR all spiffed up on display...Bob


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## Phil3

*Re: Show us your Heavy 10! 10L or 10R and tell us about it!*

I don't have a Heavy 10, but a 4-1/2 long bed 9A, which I thought about replacing with a Heavy 10 I found for sale locally. Sounded good. Came with a 3 and 6 jaw chuck, steady rest, about a dozen collets, collet chuck, and supposedly lots of tooling. Maybe it just me, and yes everything the San Francisco bay area is expensive, but $3,500?! The pictures of the unit show it to be well used, nothing restored or anything like that. What is a reasonable price for a Heavy 10? 

- Phil


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## HMF

*Re: Show us your Heavy 10! 10L or 10R and tell us about it!*

Here is my 1978 10L:


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## EarlH

*Re: Show us your Heavy 10! 10L or 10R and tell us about it!*

Here is mine. It is a 1968 10L.  I use it mostly for chambering benchrest rifle barrels. It has a freshly re-wound 3 phase motor, and the fine feed motor and drive. The accessories that I have are the handwheel collet closer, micrometer carriage stop, the lever collet closer, steady rest, follower rest, a 4 jaw skinner, a 6 jaw Buck set tru, and a 3 jaw Buck set tru, about 30 assorted 5c collets and an 8 inch faceplate. I have the Newall DRO and an Aloris QCTP and several tool holders. I also have a factory rebuilt Dumore tool post grinder. The lathe has a brand new lead screw and half nuts. I recently went thru the apron and replaced a cracked casting and put in new wicks. I also recently replaced my rotary phase converter with a Minarik Variable Frequency Drive. Much quieter and I can run the lathe as slow as 20 rpm and have full power! On the high end, it will hit 1760 rom but I don't like to abuse the headsock bearings.


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## EarlH

*Re: Show us your Heavy 10! 10L or 10R and tell us about it!*

Here is a picture of the fine feed gearing. The extra motor on the back can be configured to drive the lead screw independently of the spindle by loosening the banjo clamp and pushing it down to engage the gear behind the large pulley. There are only two accessories that I need to complete my collection - an original thread stop and an original lantern tool post.


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## rotormotored

*Re: Show us your*

Hi everybody, a month ago I bought my first SB lathe form a guy in the San Diego area. The serial number is 144201 with an anchor next ot it. So this one is also a war baby built in 1943 and originally sold to the navy. It looks smaller to me than some of the others I've seen and maybe it's because the bed is about 36 inches long. I like that it looks compact and that makes it easier to find space for in my garage but for now, I'm able to keep it at work because I work out of an airplane hanger and I've got some room for it there. I got it with a single phase motor but the previous owner threw in the old 3 phase motor and pulley and I installed it. Since I already had a static phase converter connected to the service box for use on my bridgeport mill and my other lathe (a Clausing 6300 x 12"), I disconnected the wires going to the Clausing and connected them to the SB. It came on and ran like a champ. I do have some issue's to attend to but the most pressing one is the bent spindel( about .008 run-out), but for the most part the lathe looks to be in descent shape.
I do plan on a full restoration in time but for now, I do need to find a true spindle and a good 4 independant jaw chuck. I've tried to cut the spindel true but it just made my chuck worse. The 3 jaw chuck that came with it is not very good and I've seen very few 3 jaw chucks that ever run true. I even tried to save it by taking it apart and cleaning it then cutting in inside of the jaws true with a boring cutter. It seems to have made it worse so now when I chuck a piece of 1" steel rod, my dail indicator reads about .028".
So that's where I am with this lathe. So if anyone out there has a good 2 1/4 x 8 TPI spindel, please or ANY other good ideas, Please let me know.
Thanks, Ed


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## rotormotored

Yes I think you're right, I have been going round and round with this problem for almost a month and everything just brings me back to the spindel. Then again it just comes down to time and money. I've got to find a good spindel and hopefully I won't have to break the piggy bank to do it.
thanks, dieselrider.
Ed


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## rotormotored

*Re: Show us your*

I have proved to myself that it is in fact a bent spindle on my Heavy 10. I took it out of the headstock and used a set of V blocks and a dail indicator on a granite slab. It appears to be bent at point of the bearing surface. And I do have another Spindle and a whole other headstock on the way. When it was installed I measured at the nose and got .008" and when I had it removed I got .006" on the bearing surface and then checked at the nose and got the same .008" as before. I had to prove it to myself and then show the rest of you guys.


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## rotormotored

*Re: Show us your*

Apparently I was method of measuring was incorrect. I have been corrected by the guys at Practical machinist who told me that I had to place the V-blocks under the bearing journals. So I had to measure them then subtract the difference. I got 2.125 for the big bearing journal and 1.875 for the small one. So that gives me a difference of .250" and I just happened to have a piece of .250" in my scrap box and stuck under the V-block of the small journal and then took my reading. I got .005" run out. Does that still mean it's not true and out of tolerance?


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## rotormotored

Well, that's the point. It is not true when installed in the head stock on the lathe. So now that I have the proof that I need, I'm going to replace it. Not only the spindel but the whole head stock. I had the spindel on the V-blocks where the cone pulley sits and I got about .008" run out. Then I was informed that I was measuring incorrectly so I complied by placing the spindel on the bearing journals and got .005" with it getting slightly better as I moved the indicator rearward. When I say slightly better, I mean by the time I got towards the rear, it read .004". I'll go back and check it again tomorrow but I thinking any way you slice it, I've got a bent spindel. 
Ed


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## rotormotored

Yes I'm looking for another back plate for 2 reasons. 1) the back plate looks like it been beat badly. 2) the thread register has some damaged threads. I did machine the very back of the back plate and it just seemed to make it worse. I'm also getting another chuck because the threads in the chuck are almost completely stripped and that is probably another reason the chuck won't run true.
If the spindel is egg shaped, It will not run true, right?


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## rotormotored

I do have .008" run out when I place the dail indicator on the inside of the spindel. I place the incicator on the chamfered surface at the very before the through hole.


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## rotormotored

As it turns out, I have run out on the I.D. (.008").
On the raised section behind the thread (.005")
On the face that contacts the the back plate (.004")
On the cone pulley assembly surface (.006")
I do not have any run out at surface just behind the threads because I tried to remedy the problem by taking a lite cut.
I also get no run out at the bearing journals with the V blocks under them so there's no egg shape there.
I think that it's possible that I might have a bent spindel. I know that seems hard to believe because many of the experianced guys tell me that they have never seen a bent spindel. I have had other people tell me that it is possible.
I'll bet that I'll need to go over that procedure on truing a spindel real hard. I think that is going to help.


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## cledry

*very early Heavy 10*

I bought this running but grungy Heavy 10 on Craigslist for $250. As you can see it has the plain bearings with the dome-head cap screws which were only used 1939-1940 AFAIK. I'm planning to clean it up, nothing fancy, repaint, new felts, and hopefully adjust the spindle bearing so I can start using it. It was delivered 4/19/1940 to the US Navy, the serial number is 98,423 making it one of the earliest Heavy 10 i have seen. Originally it was a 10R but at some point in 70 years it changed to a 10L. 

*I'm interested in cataloging some model changes that took place in the war years and would be interested in anyone with very early models contacting me. Specifically I am looking for the dates when the bearing caps were changed from the old style dome-head cap bolts to the allen cap bolts; when the cone pulley cover lost its round knob; when the single QCG lost its oil hole; when the tailstock lost it's 2 gits oilers on top and changed shape; plus any other incidentals I may have missed.*

It has an Aloris wedge type tool post and I have a new set of indexable tools and spare carbide that came with it. Those items cost more than I paid for the lathe.

I need to track down a 4 jaw chuck and a faceplate as well as a threading dial, a collet closer and collets are also planned for the future. Tight budget and health concerns may make those items a distant prospect though.

On my truck arriving home.



In case anyone is contemplating a move, I bolted the lathe to a couple of 2X12 pieces cut to fit between the wheelwells of the truck. I had already cut some 2X4 to length to fit side to side and the length of the bed with the tailgate closed. These were screwed to the 2X12. This prevented it shifting fore and aft and side to side. A few straps and the load was very secure. Rented engine hoist handled the lifting duties fine.




Serial number with anchor.




Original 220 3 phase was swapped for a single phase by last owner.




More photos of the lathe can be seen here, some are a bit artsy as I enjoy photography. I'll be adding to the photos as I work on it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cledry/sets/72157625742731552/with/5324286515/

Jim


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## ChuckB

Here is my 10L sitting at the point of purchase 

(here is a link outlining my purchase: http://hobby-machinist.com/index.php?topic=601.msg2899#msg2899 )

I have started on the restore, but will wait for more progress before posting text or pictures.






btw: I am totally consumed on pushing forward to having a beautiful and usable heavy 10.. it is affecting my sleep


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## cledry

Thanks for the info on you 1945. Looks Like my tailstock wrench is probably the wrong one, perhaps from a Logan?







Jim


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## ChuckB

*Re: Show us your*



			
				knudsen link=topic=15.msg3820#msg3820 date=1296742616 said:
			
		

> You got a goodun' Chuck. Glad to hear someone else loses sleep over such matters  That under lathe storage will be nice. I have to add a shelf under my 10's CI legs.



Yes.. those drawers are nice and also a nice ledge in the middle for a piece of plywood.

Worked on the bench tonight.. paint stripper and pressure washing.. almost ready to paint it!


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## Tony Wells

Back up on Reply #22, there is a slight mistaken assumption. One that many folks make. When dealing with 2 different diameters in identical vee blocks, it is not correct to simply shim up the one with the smaller diameter by the difference in diameters. In the case of 90Â° vee blocks, a 0.2500" difference should have a 0.1768" shim. That is provided you want to shim straight up. It's simpler to shim each flank with 1/2 the diameter, saves the calculations. This is important if you are doing layout work, transferring points from different points along a shaft, or from one end to the other.

Not picking on anyone, just pointing it out.


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## rotormotored

Yes thank you Tony, I know I still have much to learn. But regarding that spindel, I found one and replaced it and it looks very true. In fact I just ended up replacing the whole head stock. I got a pretty sweet deal from a friend and I simply just swaped them out. I checked it at the nose and it looks like we're at .0005". Very tight. So if there's anything else that needs to be checked, please feel to chime in and let me know. 
What I'll be getting at next pay day is a a new 4 jaw chuck and a plain back plate. I've been trying to win one on ebay but I'm just not up to speed on the auto-bid method yet. So I'm just going to buy one from Shares and in know it's Chinese made but I think it will accurate enough for me. If anyone out there has any kind of experiance with these, I'd apreciate it if you share it with me.
Now it seems I have another problem. I am learning how to operate this lathe and I've started to read "How to Operate a Lathe". So I'm trying to engage the back gear but it doesn't want to turn the spindle. I can hear the motor struggle and it will turn very slowly and then slow down to less than a crawl. I tried adjusting the height of the motor at the underdrive. I tried it by turning the threaded bolt that pivots and holds the motor mounting plate on the right side. It pivots and swivles and is attacthed to the to the handle assembly. In any case it did not change much except that if I loosened it, it made the flat belt slip on the cone step pulley.
Is my motor shot?
Or is there something else?


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## ChuckB

*Re: Show us your*



			
				rotormotored link=topic=15.msg4151#msg4151 date=1297219745 said:
			
		

> .I've been trying to win one on ebay but I'm just not up to speed on the auto-bid method yet.



Hey, sign up for Phantom Bidder:

http://www.phantombidder.com

I have been using it for years with no problems. Very inexpensive too. I use to wake up in the middle of the night to snipe ebay auctions.. I look back at those days and laugh ;D


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## mscott

Here's my first lathe I just brought home last weekend. I imagine you all know more about it than I do, but I'll get it figured out.


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## Tony Wells

Very nice looking lathe! Already has a QCTP, and you got a closer and a turret. Way to go! 

And, welcome to the Group!


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## ChuckB

*Re: Show us your*



			
				mscott link=topic=15.msg4634#msg4634 date=1297517898 said:
			
		

> Here's my first lathe I just brought home last weekend. I imagine you all know more about it than I do, but I'll get it figured out.



Welcome to the forum!! Excellent first lathe!!

_exactly_ like mine that I am restoring.. Now I can get an idea about what mine will look like. 

please post your serial number.. our two lathes might be brothers


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## rotormotored

*Re: Show us your*

Hi again everyone, 
Well it looks like I've finally solved my bent spindle problem. I bought another complete headstock and simply swapped them out. And doing that was suprisingly very easy. From what I can tell, it looks like this lathe comes apart and goes back together fairly easy.
I also found a good 8" chuck for it and it looks like my spindle is spinning this chuck and the work piece in the chuck at about ".0003. Wow! I've impressed myself. I think that's pretty tight. The only thing I'm having trouble with is that sometimes the back gear just becomes disengaged and there seems to be a big vibration at a certain speed, not sure which speed.
 As I've said before, I am planning on a complete restoration. Here's some pics of what it looks like now:


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## rotormotored

Yes it does look big on there but I guess having an 8" is better for being able to hold odd shapes in it, so I'm told. I did want to buy a smaller chuck like a 4'' or a 6'' but I kept loosing on ebay because I guess I'm just not capable of bidding like a real pro. I kept looking for a chuck that will fit a 2 1/4 x 8tpi spindle and they were being bought up quicker than you know what. Someone on here sent me a link to phantom bid but I haven't set that up yet. Anyway, I know a guy out here who goes around buying up machine shop equipment from I don't know where, so I called him and sure enough he had one for me. I still want get a small chuck to put on this SB but for now I'll just use this one.
What do you think?


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## ChuckB

*Re: Show us your*



			
				knudsen link=topic=15.msg5301#msg5301 date=1298415819 said:
			
		

> I was just surprised by how much bigger than a 6" it looks on a 10. I like it! It should be good, so long as the jaws don't hit the ways. I remember when I put a 4" 4 jaw on my 7 x how much bigger it looked than the old 3 jaw. I never took the 4" 4 jaw off! If I have to choose between big or small for a lathe chuck, I'll take the big one. 8)



Wouldn't it be better to stay with a smaller chuck to avoid a strain on the spindle bearings?
Just thinking out loud..


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## rotormotored

As for putting an additional strain on the spindle bearings, well I don't think that'a a big factor. Of course, I'm just a newbee at this and I have much to learn but how much of an added strain could it be?


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## oscer

*Re: Show us your*

Here's my 10L I bought it on E bay for $416. It's a 1943 SER# 135694. There is no knob on the step pulley cover. It came with a hand wheel collet closer, a bunch of collets and a rack, threading dial, a live and a dead center and a lantern tool post with a straight tool holder. I put new wicks in the spindle and the apron, adjusted the spindle bearings, made a chip pan for it and put a serpentine belt on it. I hope that is all I'll have to do to it because I'd much rather run it than work on it.


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## oscer

*Re: Show us your*

tried to move to get rid of the glare. It actually looks better in the pics. than it does in person paint is chipped and peeling pretty badly.


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## Canuck75

*Re: Show us your "Heavy 10" (10L or 10R) &  tell us about it!*

My 1964 10" SB toolroom lathe. Bought it out of government surplus in 1975. Originally vended by CAE Morse Ltd. in Halifax Nova Scotia to the Royal Canadian Navy and installed on the repair ship HMCS Kapuskasing. Ship was scrapped and assets listed for sale. I spotted the sale flyer and went to view it. Lathe was sitting on a pallet beside the cabinet along with accessories. Based on original SB literature these lathes did not come with chucks, collets (although the drawbar, spindle nose and nut, and collet rack were included) or electrical equipment. The Navy fitted this one with the 3 jaw, 5C collets in 1/16ths, quick release collet drawbar and 550V 3 ph electrics with a 3 button control switch. Government sales were based on sealed bids in which I was lucky. Subsequent viewing of my prize showed the outside jaws for the 3 jaw chuck were missing, no 4 jaw, one of the collet set missing, collet nose cone and spindle nut missing, the quick release drawbar nose slightly squished and the flat belt was cut to facilitate disassembly and moving.

Got a parts/ repair manual from SB and did a complete tear down, paint and rebuild. Stripped out all the wiring and using the 3ph contactor blocks (they operate on 115v 1ph) in the big control box on the back of the lathe wired up a 1 1/2hp motor with the original fwd/rev/off button switch. Made a new collet nose cone, collet spindle nut, worried the collet drawbar threaded end back to original shape, bought a 4 jaw, new laced flat belt and I was in business. I just tinker for myself but it has now served me well for 39 years.


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## Canuck75

*Re: Show us your Heavy 10! 10L or 10R and tell us about it!*



Nels said:


> Here is my 1978 10L:




I notice two small differences from my 1964 10" toolroom lathe which I would have thought would be standard manufacture design . On is the "turned" tail stock clamping handle vice the "cast' handle on mine, and the second is a much shorter front belt tightening lever. Interesting but odd.

- - - Updated - - -



Nels said:


> Here is my 1978 10L:





I notice two small differences from my 1964 10" toolroom lathe which I would have thought would be standard manufacture design . On is the "turned" tail stock clamping handle vice the "cast' handle on mine, and the second is a much shorter front belt tightening lever. Interesting but odd.


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