# Diamond in the rough?



## DavidR8

This came up in my feed for lathes today.


----------



## SLK001

This one looks in pretty good shape.  If the price is right, you might want to pick it up.  Is there a 4 jaw anywhere?


----------



## mikey

Bet that would clean up real nice.


----------



## DavidR8

The seller is asking $1250. I'm waiting to find out about the 4-jaw.
The catalog number indicates 10K. The 3 1/2 ft bed fits in my space requirements.

Could those be scraping marks on the ways?


----------



## mikey

DavidR8 said:


> Could those be scraping marks on the ways?



Looks like it to me. The important part is hidden under the saddle. You'll have to move it to see if there is a ridge on the ways to indicate excessive wear but from what I can see, this lathe is in really nice shape.


----------



## SLK001

DavidR8 said:


> Could those be scraping marks on the ways?



Yes.   You can see the biggest wear area right underneath the chuck to the carriage, and it is full of flaking.  This looks like it was owned by a hobbiest from day 1.  No industrial life for this diamond!


----------



## DavidR8

I’m waiting for the seller to contact me 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

Just spoke to the seller.
He's a tech teacher and he bought the lathe from a retired fellow. It's seen very little use. Three jaw chuck and jaws, a face plate., drill chuck, live center, tool holders are about the extent of the tooling.
He's going to shoot some more photos for me including the serial number.


----------



## T Bredehoft

Good luck with it.


----------



## Winegrower

See, my thinking is you look and look just to prepare yourself for the moment.   When you see something that meets your requirements, you can’t ask for more pictures, do some web research, etc.   You make an offer at what price makes sense to you.   If it’s turned down, you move on, with no regrets.   If it’s accepted, you still have an opportunity to see in person that the lathe is as advertised...be fair though, no going back on a deal because of cold feet, only if it has been misrepresented.

Otherwise, you will lose out over and over.


----------



## DavidR8

@Winegrower I told the seller I was prepared to take it based on the photos I already had.
He wants to send me more so that I can be sure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

Here’s a few more pics. 













Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mmcmdl

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/south-bend-heavy-10-rkr-400-nla-selling-for-parts.76393/
		


Hey Dave , looks like this one I had awhile back. I may have some stuff for it still , not sure . Well , maybe not , I see that it's a bench mount .


----------



## DavidR8

mmcmdl said:


> https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/south-bend-heavy-10-rkr-400-nla-selling-for-parts.76393/
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Dave , looks like this one I had awhile back. I may have some stuff for it still , not sure .


Cool. It's in astonishingly good condition. Not loaded with tools but it has virtually no wear.


----------



## mmcmdl

Looks like it will clean up nice . My bed on this lathe needed help , and I didn't have the time to help it .


----------



## DavidR8

If all goes well I'll be adding a QCTP and eventually a 4-jaw. Will keep my peepers peeled for a steadyrest also.


----------



## mmcmdl

I know I have a chuck mount listed below for that lathe , along with a few chucks .


----------



## DavidR8

mmcmdl said:


> I know I have a chuck mount listed below for that lathe , along with a few chucks .


Let me know what you have


----------



## mmcmdl

Some of it is listed below already and it will all be there eventually . I am sorting out what I am keeping and the rest goes .


----------



## DavidR8

mmcmdl said:


> Some of it is listed below already and it will all be there eventually . I am sorting out what I am keeping and the rest goes .


Sorry... I'm not following... listed below where?

Edit: I figured it out. In the For Sale section...


----------



## mmcmdl

DavidR8 said:


> Sorry... I'm not following... listed below where?



For sale , for trade etc . The bottom of the site .


----------



## DavidR8

Colour me embarrassed!


----------



## francist

So are we buying the machine or what? 

Nice bench too, by the way. I like wood.

-frank


----------



## matthewsx

Go get it....


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> So are we buying the machine or what?
> 
> Nice bench too, by the way. I like wood.
> 
> -frank



Yup
I’m buying it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

matthewsx said:


> Go get it....
> 
> View attachment 308183



On it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mini Cooper S

That's a keeper! Nice find. For what it's worth I paid $1000 for my 9".........back in 1972.


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> So are we buying the machine or what?
> 
> Nice bench too, by the way. I like wood.
> 
> -frank


I like the bench too. I suspect I'll have to coat the top or it will be oil stained in no time flat.


----------



## matthewsx

DavidR8 said:


> I like the bench too. I suspect I'll have to coat the top or it will be oil stained in no time flat.


Coat it with oil....


----------



## francist

DavidR8 said:


> like the bench too. I suspect I'll have to coat the top or it will be oil stained in no time flat.



I varnish mine with Helmsman, they’re lasting me very well but that is just my preference.

-frank


----------



## SLK001

Get a sheet of 18 gauge cold rolled steel and make a full size chip pan for it.  You can thank me later.


----------



## Aaron_W

DavidR8 said:


> I like the bench too. I suspect I'll have to coat the top or it will be oil stained in no time flat.



Commercial baking pans work well as a chip pan on smaller bench lathes. A full sheet pan is 18x26" so would be just about perfect for that machine. Heavy gauge aluminum are around $15, stainless steel around $30 (US).

12 gauge aluminum baking pan full sheet


----------



## DavidR8

Thanks @Aaron_W < that's a great idea. There's a restaurant supply somewhat nearby me.


----------



## francist

I saw some really skookum ones out at Lee Valley a few weeks ago too. Extremely heavy. Can’t recall the sizes — there was a bigger and a smaller — but they were sure nice if Russell’s doesn’t have one. By one of their “feature sale product” islands.

-frank


----------



## DavidR8

Thanks @francist I have to make a trip to Lee Valley for some stocking stuffers. I'll check out the trays.


----------



## Aaron_W

francist said:


> I saw some really skookum ones out at Lee Valley a few weeks ago too. Extremely heavy. Can’t recall the sizes — there was a bigger and a smaller — but they were sure nice if Russell’s doesn’t have one. By one of their “feature sale product” islands.
> 
> -frank



I think they come in 1/2, 3/4 and full sheet. The cheap ones are 20-22 gauge and they get thicker as the price goes up. The one I linked to is 12 gauge so a pretty solid sheet (2-3mm I'd think).


----------



## DavidR8

And the lathe is mine!!!
Woohoo!!!
Thank you all for bearing with me on the beginning of this awesome journey 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## francist




----------



## DavidR8

More pics

It’s a 1973 10K 
















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mmcmdl

Well …………………...we do like pics !


----------



## Dabbler

Ya know, if you want a real SB milling attachment for it, I can hook you up.  PM me if you are interested!


----------



## Janderso

Congrats.
I had a 1941 13” South Bend. It had cast iron bearings. Yours will be brass/bronze.
Just a suggestion, before you run it, you may want to learn how to inspect, adjust the spindle bearings.
Lots of sources here and on YouTube.
As long as they never ran dry, they will be fine, in theory.
Looks like a great lathe, hardened ways too.


----------



## DavidR8

Thanks @Janderso, I’m pretty stoked!
I take your point on the spindle bearings. 
The lathe is basically unused so I’m going to approach it like an old low-mileage used car and ‘replace’ all the fluids and check the seals for leaks. 

So new wicks may be in order. Definitely a full cleaning and lubrication. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MontanaLon

DavidR8 said:


> Thanks @Janderso, I’m pretty stoked!
> I take your point on the spindle bearings.
> The lathe is basically unused so I’m going to approach it like an old low-mileage used car and ‘replace’ all the fluids and check the seals for leaks.
> 
> So new wicks may be in order. Definitely a full cleaning and lubrication.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Replacing the wicks using the Steve Wells kit is easy and a really good way to get to know the lathe and what makes it tick.


----------



## FOMOGO

Exciting stuff, getting your first lathe. Good for you. Cheers, Mike


----------



## SLK001

Janderso said:


> Looks like a great lathe, hardened ways too.


Yes, good looking lathe, but ways are NOT hardened (as evident by the flaking on the ways).  Bed hardening was standard for all lathes _except _the 9" and the 10K.


----------



## Janderso

SLK001 said:


> Yes, good looking lathe, but ways are NOT hardened (as evident by the flaking on the ways).  Bed hardening was standard for all lathes _except _the 9" and the 10K.


I stand corrected, I thought all these later SB lathes had "Flame Hardened Bed ways".
I should be more mindful of the facts.


----------



## Janderso

DavidR8 said:


> So new wicks may be in order. Definitely a full cleaning and lubrication.


When I replaced mine on the 1941 13", I was in awe of the simple spindle oiling system. The reservoir is just that, the oil that flows down to the spindle bearings flows out to a groove cut in the castings, there is a hole at 6:00 with a little metal clip. When the lathe is running, you can watch the oil make it's way back into the reservoir.
The bearings were cast iron and showed virtually no wear. I was impressed with my old South Bend. I miss it.
May you have many years with yours, post some pics when you begin the clean up.


----------



## MontanaLon

Janderso said:


> When I replaced mine on the 1941 13", I was in awe of the simple spindle oiling system. The reservoir is just that, the oil that flows down to the spindle bearings flows out to a groove cut in the castings, there is a hole at 6:00 with a little metal clip. When the lathe is running, you can watch the oil make it's way back into the reservoir.
> The bearings were cast iron and showed virtually no wear. I was impressed with my old South Bend. I miss it.
> May you have many years with yours, post some pics when you begin the clean up.


I was amazed the plain cast iron bearing in my 10" 1939 lather were pristine as well. By my simple calculations, if the lathe was run for 1 hour a day over its' life span, it rounds out to 1.5 billion revolutions, with no wear. Amazing. When you look at production machines from the same era some of them probably hit 1.5 billion revolutions in 10 years.


----------



## DavidR8

How does one get in touch with Steve Wells?

Edit: I found his eBay store 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## pontiac428

matthewsx said:


> Coat it with oil....


...and chips.  That tabletop had better be covered in chips!


----------



## SLK001

DavidR8 said:


> How does one get in touch with Steve Wells?



Also, his web page is www.wswells.com - a lot of good info there.  His user name on practicalmachinist.com is swells.


----------



## matthewsx

I have a pan from a wire dog kennel under my lathe, works just like the baking sheets....

John


----------



## DavidR8

Thanks @matthewsx, does it extend under the legs or up to the legs?


----------



## matthewsx

DavidR8 said:


> Thanks @matthewsx, does it extend under the legs or up to the legs?



It goes between the legs, makes it easy to remove and empty chips.


----------



## SLK001

Hey, when you turn, chips will go EVERYWHERE!  I still stand by my previous suggestion to make a FULL TABLE chip pan.  Once this is made, you can also put a smaller pan between the legs to make cleanup easier.


----------



## Superburban

A source for a larger pan, an auto oil drip pan, from an auto parts store, IIRC, they are about 24"x 36", with about a 3/8" lip. Around $10 to $15. They are the right size for an Atlas/Craftsman 618 to fit inside. Then I use a cookie pan under the bed to catch most of the chips, and is easy to empty. My big lathe has a brownie pan that catches most of the chips.


----------



## DavidR8

Superburban said:


> A source for a larger pan, an auto oil drip pan, from an auto parts store, IIRC, they are about 24"x 36", with about a 3/8" lip. Around $10 to $15. They are the right size for an Atlas/Craftsman 618 to fit inside. Then I use a cookie pan under the bed to catch most of the chips, and is easy to empty. My big lathe has a brownie pan that catches most of the chips.



I’m going to assume it’s retired from brownie duty 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Superburban

Don't tell my wife.

Yard sales are big around here, Every time I see square pans for cheap, I scarf them up. The meat loaf/ bread pans, are great for storage, the brownie ones are great for sorting & project storage.


----------



## DavidR8

Ordered a QCTP today 









						Magnum 12
					

Speed up your lathe operations and enjoy the convenience of easy tool setup with this quick-change tool post set. Change tools in seconds. Place the tool holder on the tool post’s dovetail, adjust the tool's height with the knurled wheel and tighten




					m.kmstools.com
				





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SLK001

I take it that it is an Aloris clone.  The description is not clear with the 12" listing.  Make sure that you get an AXA series version and not a BXA series.  A BXA series holder is too big for your lathe.   I prefer the wedge type over the piston type.

If your knurler was like mine, it is a piece of junk, because of cheap knurls.  If you are going to use the knurler, upgrade it by purchasing a set of quality knurls (the cheap ones don't run concentric, which is necessary for quality knurling).


----------



## DavidR8

It is an Aloris clone, AXA size. 
Yeah, the knurler is not great, I didn't know the wheel were available separately. Ideally I'll get one of the scissor-style (I think that's what they are called)


----------



## MontanaLon

I tried the knurler on aluminum and brass and it sucked. Haven't replaced the wheels yet but will eventually. I have made 12 extra tool holders for it using the mill and they work well. Which reminds me, I need more tools to go in them.


----------



## Cooter Brown

NO WAY THIS GUY FINALLY PICKED ONE!???   

That's looks like a great machine.


----------



## DavidR8

Cooter Brown said:


> NO WAY THIS GUY FINALLY PICKED ONE!???
> 
> That's looks like a great machine.


I finally picked one. I'm glad I dithered as I think I got a winner!
Thanks for hanging with me


----------



## mmcmdl

So you need knurling wheels ?


----------



## Cooter Brown

The ways look great on that bed.... How does the lead screw look in the middle of the bed, does it look like the end closer to the chuck or is worn down? If you engage the half nut is there a lot of  backlash like play in the carriage wheel?

Its awesome that you got the OD grip chuck jaws.... Make sure you oil the machine at least once every couple of weeks..... Dont just toss out those lantern style tool holders now that you are getting a QCTP...


----------



## DavidR8

Cooter Brown said:


> The ways look great on that bed.... how does the lead screw look in the middle of the bed, does it look like the end closer to the chuck or is worn down? If you engage the half nut is there a lot of play backlash like play the carriage wheel?
> 
> Its awesome that you got the OD grip chuck jaws.... Make sure you oil the machine at least once every couple of weeks..... Dont just toss out those lantern style tool holders now that you are getting a QCTP...



It’s pristine all along the full length. 
Seriously like it’s never been used. 

I’ll be keeping all the tooling as it’s original to the machine. 
Is the lantern post useful for other operations?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

mmcmdl said:


> So you need knurling wheels ?



Yeah, do you know anyone with a spare set? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mmcmdl

It's all below Dave .


----------



## Dabbler

I use my lantern/Armstrong/American tool post all the time!


----------



## DavidR8

Dabbler said:


> I use my lantern/Armstrong/American tool post all the time!


For my education, can you give me some examples of when you use it?


----------



## Dabbler

I knew that you were going to ask!!

First I use it a lot with soft materials such as plastic, non-alloy aluminum and grippy stuff like copper and soft brass.  That allows me to custom grind a 1/4" tool targeted at the material in question.  I also have a special tool for hardwoods that I have made for the Lantern tool holders: it looks like a one sided knife edge.  These are possible with a QCTP, but not as easy to accomplish IMHO...


----------



## Superburban

The lantern post holds the Armstrong style tool holders (Circled one in red below), looks like you have several. For the quick change style, you will need other cutting bits. I also like the Armstrong style, as you can use small bits of high speed steel, and custom grind them for your needs. I also found a link to a Tubilcain video that shows them in action.


----------



## francist

Hmmm, looks like a Starrett No. 104 speed indicator hiding way down in that box o’ dust as well! Could be a 107, can’t see the handle clear enough. Speed indicator, old style.

-frank


----------



## DavidR8

Superburban said:


> The lantern post holds the Armstrong style tool holders (Circled one in red below), looks like you have several. For the quick change style, you will need other cutting bits. I also like the Armstrong style, as you can use small bits of high speed steel, and custom grind them for your needs. I also found a link to a Tubilcain video that shows them in action.


Thanks for this. I'm curious though; why does he feed from the centre of the work?


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> Hmmm, looks like a Starrett No. 104 speed indicator hiding way down in that box o’ dust as well! Could be a 107, can’t see the handle clear enough. Speed indicator, old style.
> 
> -frank



I was wondering what that was. Thanks for your eagle eye!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SLK001

Dabbler said:


> That allows me to custom grind a 1/4" tool targeted at the material in question.



I do this all the time... and mount them in a QCTP holder.  I don't know very many situations that an Armstrong holder can handle that a QCTP holder cannot.


----------



## MontanaLon

DavidR8 said:


> Thanks for this. I'm curious though; why does he feed from the centre of the work?


I have wondered this too. When the gear train is turning forward that is the direction it goes. In my experience, pushing into the work takes much more force than pulling out does. Tool life and surface finish are better when working from the center out. It always seemed to me that if pushing in was the way to go they would have added another gear in the cross feed chain to go that way when the reversing gears are set to "forward".


----------



## DavidR8

MontanaLon said:


> I have wondered this too. When the gear train is turning forward that is the direction it goes. In my experience, pushing into the work takes much more force than pulling out does. Tool life and surface finish are better when working from the center out. It always seemed to me that if pushing in was the way to go they would have added another gear in the cross feed chain to go that way when the reversing gears are set to "forward".



I think I understand what you’re saying:

In a facing operation, working from the centre out takes advantage of the outward pressure (toward the operator) on the tool bit caused by the direction of rotation. 

Or am I misunderstanding?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## matthewsx

Try it both ways and you will see....


----------



## DavidR8

matthewsx said:


> Try it both ways and you will see....


Counting down the days till my lathe arrives! Arrival -six days!


----------



## Dabbler

SLK001 said:


> I do this all the time... and mount them in a QCTP holder.



@SLK001 I only said it is harder to do in a QCTP.  I use the 4-way for what it's good at, the QCTP a lot, and the Armstrong under the conditions noted above.  Each using it's strengths.


----------



## DavidR8

Well rats. I picked up the QCTP and it’s a piston style. 
I wanted a wedge-style post. The picture and description were a bit vague so I took a chance. 
Easy to return so no big deal. 
Scouting for a wedge-style post now. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ThinWoodsman

DavidR8 said:


> For my education, can you give me some examples of when you use it?



Lantern toolposts also hold REAL BIG tools, the ones whose shank won't fit in the QCTP holders. My Logan came with a BXA, and I have used a lantern toolpost for CXA-sized knurling tools and parting tools. Both types of tool benefit from the extra rigidity, though whether it comes from the larger tool or the lantern I cannot say.

*Machinist's Workshop* from early this year (Vol 29, No 5) has an article _Getting the Most out of your Lantern Toolpost_ that is really worth a read.


----------



## DavidR8

@Tinwoodsman is that a subscription publication?

Edit: subscribed!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ErichKeane

DavidR8 said:


> @Tinwoodsman is that a subscription publication?
> 
> Edit: subscribed!
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Fwiw, I've had both and actually preferred the Piston tool post over wedge. My BXA on my Logan was a piston style. My new lathe has a CA which I bought a wedge type, and I find loading the tool holder much more finnicky.  The wedge has enough play in it that it jams when loading the holder, but the Piston loads easy every time.

I have yet to notice any accuracy difference or advantage to the wedge style.


----------



## DavidR8

ErichKeane said:


> I have yet to notice any accuracy difference or advantage to the wedge style.



That’s interesting. I did a bunch of research and it seemed the opinions tended toward the wedge style being more repeatable. 
I have a wedge style on my mini lathe but obviously it seems minuscule loads as compared to an A, B or C size post. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Nigel123

Just bought a BXA piston style for my lathe 
Fixed income played a part but most of the comments quoted not much of a difference for hobby machinists
I suppose as most tools you can get a lemon
Being retired thought I have lots of time to shim tool height but It gets a little tedious
So far I love it going to order more holders
No matter which one you go with when you make the nut from the plate they supply make it 
a T nut(some videos show just mill it to fit the slot)
I tapped 2 holes in compound to fit screws so it does'nt slide when adjusting
Only 3 more days then the Diamond in the rough arrives
Congrads on you purchase


----------



## Dabbler

So I have a piston AXA, a piston style BXA (both offshore) and a wedge Aloris BXA (bought on a day of weakness)  Here's the dope:  My AXA repeats  really well and holds firmly enough on a 12X37 lathe with a 1.5 HP motor.  The BXA: not so much on my 14X40 with 3HP motor.  It seems to really depend on the maker and your luck with offshore tool posts.  The Aloris, of course is rock solid.  I have no plans to buy a CXA for my 15X60 7.5HP lathe.  I will be using its 4-way tool post.  I'll make an adapter for my dinky #1 Armstrong to use on the 15"  If I feel a moment of weaknss, I'll make a shoe for the Aloris BXA to use on the 15".

David:  There should be no rush to buy a QCTP for your South Bend.  Yes, they are more convenient, but my mentor used his SB 9A with only a lantern for 40 years and did very good work.  He held to close tolerances and even turned large items on it. If you can't find 1/4" square HSS tools I can send you some, already sharpened.

Another point of view:  The piston ones _theoretically _aren't as good as the wedge style.  I think it matters more about the quality of manufacture of the tool post more.  A poor wedge tool post will be sticky and won't repeat worth anything.  A piston poorly fitted isn't as rigid, and will also have repeatability problems.  That said, repeatability is overrated.  _You want rigid. _

*For those who violently object:*  All I'm saying that there is no rush.  His lathe will work fine with what he has.  Time enough to save for a _nice _QCTP post... A lot of good skill development can be done with his Armstrong.


----------



## Aaron_W

I've not used the piston style, but I suspect just as the wedge is allegedly a little more accurate, it is also probably more fussy with tighter tolerances making the cheaper QCTPs more prone to binding. I have a Little Machine Shop OXA wedge type for my Sherline, it required just a little bit of adjustment in fit at first but now the tool holders go on smoothly every time. 

I've also got a larger wedge type BXA Phase II on my 10x24" Powermatic and it required the prior owner to take a little off the wedge to work at all. Even with that modification it will still occasionally bind when changing tool holders requiring some jiggling of the handle and tool holder. I very much doubt that is an issue with a real Aloris or Dorian.

I agree with Dabbler on the need for a QCTP, they are very much a nice to have, not a need to have item. I used the standard* rocker tool posts on my Sherline for a couple of years before buying a QCTP. I still find there are times that the standard tool posts are useful, and having used both now I find that I was not in anyway handicapped without one. It simply makes tool changes easier.  

*Sherline's rocker tool posts are sort of a cross between a lantern and the type found on many mini-lathes.


----------



## Dabbler

I think the Sherline holder is really brilliant!  (--oh no!  not _another _project!)


----------



## Superburban

Looking back at all the years I have been removing chips from metal, I cannot think of one time where I needed any type of repeatability.  You do an operation, and then remove the first tool holder, and drop in the second, and do another operation. Then if you reinstall the first tool holder, There has been cuts made, the carriage, compound, or both have moved. What repeatability do I need when I put it back?

I can see the height adjustment, so the cutter is moving in line with the center of the work piece, But I cannot see where the piston, or wedge style will be different, as the height is set on the tool holder, not the tool post. 

For many operations, I find a 4 way tool post faster, and simpler to use once set up. The thing I do not like, is the one I have for my SB 16", is mainly designed to use 1/2" HSS tools. One of thge things on my to-do, is to make a puece that will hold a parting blade, and clamp into the 4 way tool post.


----------



## SLK001

The wedge type can generate more clamping force, so it is theoretically more rigid.  I used a lantern for 40+ years before I switched.  To me, the QCTP is the cat's meow - I still have my lanterns, but I can't see ever using them again.


----------



## Dabbler

Ah @SLK001 - perhaps sell your lanterns to those of us that appreciate them!  The are the best tool holder to reach in for O ring groves and difficult OD reach-arounds...  (saved my bacon more than once)


----------



## Aaron_W

Dabbler said:


> I think the Sherline holder is really brilliant!  (--oh no!  not _another _project!)




Not as quick as a QCTP, but since on the Sherline they mount in a T-slot, if you have several, they actually do allow easy tool changes without a need to re center the height.


----------



## mmcmdl

Dabbler said:


> Ah @SLK001 - perhaps sell your lanterns to those of us that appreciate them! The are the best tool holder to reach in for O ring groves and difficult OD reach-arounds... (saved my bacon more than once)


I have a few lanterns


----------



## MrWhoopee

When producing multiple parts, repeatability is important. Being able to switch tools and just dial to the same number speeds things up. I've never done any production with a plunger post, we were taught they didn't repeat and took that for gospel. For those of us who don't do that (anymore), it's not nearly as important. I have 2 plunger style AXA posts, one that came with my Heavy 10 and one I was given. Either would probably have been perfectly serviceable for my needs, but I bought a wedge style. I find it hard to adjust to the mentality of a hobbyist after so many years in the trade. We would never have anything but Aloris or Dorian, and thought nothing of dropping $1k on a CXA set when we bought another lathe. I do have some difficulty fitting certain toolholders on the post, but that is mostly because I have an assortment from several different sources.

Anybody who wants a plunger type AXA can have one for the price of shipping. No holders, just the post. PM me.


----------



## Dabbler

I'm sure David would appreciate it.


----------



## Aaron_W

DavidR8 said:


> @Tinwoodsman is that a subscription publication?
> 
> Edit: subscribed!
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



There are four magazines I know of aimed at general hobby machining, Machinist's Workshop, The Home Shop Machinist and Model Engineer / Model Engineer's Workshop. I've picked up a few here and there. Some shops that carry magazines carry them. I've found them at Barnes and Noble, and the local Tractor Supply carries Machinist Workshop. 

Like most magazines I've found some issues have been really interesting, others not so much. 

I'm able to find so much online that I haven't bothered to subscribe, but if you like magazines they have some good stuff. Model Engineer / Model Engineer's Workshop are from the UK and 13 issues a year vs 6 for the other 2 so quite a bit more expensive.


----------



## ThinWoodsman

Aaron_W said:


> I'm able to find so much online that I haven't bothered to subscribe, but if you like magazines they have some good stuff.


Yeah, they're nice to read on the train and such, but nothing you can't live without.
The publisher, Village Press, has some pretty good books collecting the more interesting articles. In particular, the Projects series and the Shop Masters series.


----------



## DavidR8

Alrighty folks, the lathe has arrived!

Delivered by its owner, a grade 10-11 tech teacher. 

First a shot of the ways. 






Scraping on the cross slide. 





Headstock. 





Drive.





Gearbox 





Reversing switch. 





Belt cover. 





Gear train. 





Chuck. 





Cross slide and compound. 





Tailstock 










Tooling. 






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SLK001

It's a real cream puff.  Are you going to re-felt it before use?

Be sure to remove the grease from the back gears.  Don't use grease on a lathe exterior, use only oil.  Chips will embed in the grease, but will be thrown clear with oil.

You basically have a brand new lathe.


----------



## francist

Looks pretty mint from here — nicely done David. 

-frank


----------



## Superburban

I would be proud to have it in my collection. Good find.


----------



## DavidR8

Thanks @francist, I feel like I won the lottery today. 

@SLK001
Yup definitely going to re-felt it. Seems the prudent thing to do.
And definitely clean the grease off the gears 

I pulled the threading dial off to look at the gear and it is like brand new. The lead screw is crisp and edgy if you know what I mean.

The info plate on the motor looks like it was made yesterday.

There’s only two things I found that need attention.
The live centre is pooched as it doesn’t spin concentrically, wavers about 1/16” off centre. No big deal.

The left tumbler engagement pin is bent slightly. If I rotate the knurled handle there’s an ever so slight bend to the pin end of it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dabbler

This is as good as Bert's lathe.  Show room condition and very low hours.  

The centre is from another lathe and is pooched.  a throw-away.  You can purchase really good heavy duty live centres quite cheaply.  

I've never seen a threading chart on an old SB so pristine.  *You have a true diamond there!!!!*


----------



## DavidR8

Thanks @Dabbler, I’m absolutely thrilled with it’s condition. 

I think there’s still cosmoline in some places. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ThinWoodsman

So what's the "rough" part? Looks great.
Looks like sawdust in the chuck, tool and gears. Either he turned wood on it or had it in a woodshop. You should probably remove the chuck jaws (number them if they are not already so you can put them back in order) and clean that thing out.
Live center: Shars has 'em, reasonably priced.


----------



## DavidR8

ThinWoodsman said:


> So what's the "rough" part? Looks great.
> Looks like sawdust in the chuck, tool and gears. Either he turned wood on it or had it in a woodshop. You should probably remove the chuck jaws (number them if they are not already so you can put them back in order) and clean that thing out.
> Live center: Shars has 'em, reasonably priced.


Yes, definitely not a rough diamond at all. 
There's sawdust in a lot of places. I think it was in a woodshop. 

Once I can get the chuck off I'll pull it apart, clean, lube and reassemble. The jaws and chuck are already numbered.


----------



## matthewsx

Very nice, it’s great to see an older machine that will get back into service....

I know you’ll be very happy with how this one operates compared to the mini you bought earlier, and will be able to make a good testimonial on the virtues of waiting for the right machine.

Now wipe that grin off your face and get to work  

john


----------



## Janderso

It’s got class man.
Well done


----------



## SLK001

DavidR8 said:


> Once I can get the chuck off I'll pull it apart, clean, lube and reassemble. The jaws and chuck are already numbered.



Is the chuck stuck?  If so, do NOT use the back gear to lock the spindle.  The gears are just cast iron and will easily break off teeth.  Put a 2 foot steel bar cross-wise in the chuck so that it sticks out toward the back.  Stand a 2x4 up in line with the bar, so that the bar will hit the 2x4 on the top.  Now, using your hands, roll the chuck backwards so that the bar strikes the 2x4.  Let the inertia break the chuck free.  

If you have an impact wrench, chuck up a hex bar and drive it with the wrench.

The next time you put on your chuck, make a gasket out of parchment (cooking/oven) paper or wax paper and put this between the chuck and the spindle shoulder.  This will prevent the chuck from sticking and make removal easy.

The one thing that I wish South Bend lathes had was a dedicated spindle lock.


----------



## DavidR8

Got the chuck off by following @SLK001 advice. 
Chucked up a piece of 18” bar and put a couple of 12” lengths of 2x4 face down on the bench. Spun the chuck so the end of the bar hit the 2x4s and easily broke it loose. 

It’s a 5” Kobayashi chuck. Nicely made. 
The adapter plate is a really tight interference fit. 











I am struggling to get the drive system set up though. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong. 

I think the belt is too long for the width of the bench top. 

Should the tension adjuster be horizontal when fully engaged? 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SLK001

DavidR8 said:


> I am struggling to get the drive system set up though. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong.
> 
> I think the belt is too long for the width of the bench top.
> 
> Should the tension adjuster be horizontal when fully engaged?



It should go slightly past horizontal and lock there.  It will be mostly horizontal, I guess.  Look at the second picture in your original post - the drive is locked in that pic.


----------



## DavidR8

@SLK001 I completely forgot about those pics.
I think what I was thinking is that the weight of the motor etc. would put tension on the belt like a contractor style table saw. 
I see now that once the base is secured the tension adjustment rod  is what's going to tension the belt.

Also found the 10K mounting instructions in the Army manual which state the pivot on the base should be 15 3/4" from the edge of the back of the foot.


----------



## DavidR8

I fussed about some more and got things sorted out with the drive. 
Spun it up for a few seconds and wow, smooth, smooth, smooth!

I discovered that the small nut on the spur gear is missing. No idea what diameter or pitch it might be. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SLK001

DavidR8 said:


> I discovered that the small nut on the spur gear is missing. No idea what diameter or pitch it might be.



Get out your thread gauges and calipers and measure the stud.  It's probably the same as on the other two gear axles.


----------



## Nigel123

Congrads on your delivery on the diamond in the rough 
I see no moss grows under your feet
You will be making chips in no time
Nice to hear everything worked out for you


----------



## FOMOGO

You have to be a happy camper. Very nice machine for your first endeavor. Cheers, Mike


----------



## DavidR8

@FOMOGO yup, I’m thrilled that I found such a cream puff!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

Nigel123 said:


> Congrads on your delivery on the diamond in the rough
> I see no moss grows under your feet
> You will be making chips in no time
> Nice to hear everything worked out for you



Thanks @Nigel123, I’m glad I took the advice of the members here and waited for the right machine to come along. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MontanaLon

DavidR8 said:


> Thanks @Nigel123, I’m glad I took the advice of the members here and waited for the right machine to come along.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Now on to the next stage of the illness which is actually 1 or 2 routes. It could be you will start buying tooling and in short order have spent as much on tools as you have the lathe or, and this is probably the worst of the 2 symptoms, you will have too good to pass up deals landing in your lap on other machines fairly frequently. Seriously, you can stop looking and they will find you. Right after I bought my mill I was offered a smaller lathe, a bigger mill, a surface grinder and a small shaper for stupid cheap. I probably could have flipped them and doubled my money or at least sold off 1/2 of them for the price of the whole lot but the wife gave me the stink eye when I mentioned it. 

So I did what any man would do, I bought a new gun to sooth my broken heart.


----------



## DavidR8

Well @MontanaLon, route #1 is already happening. I have a 4-jaw and QCTP in their way 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MontanaLon

DavidR8 said:


> Well @MontanaLon, route #1 is already happening. I have a 4-jaw and QCTP in their way
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I failed to mention the 3rd possibility of both of the above at the same time.


----------



## SLK001

I don't know if I've mentioned this before, but make your FIRST project constructing one of these:








It will help keep your ways looking new as it protects them from falling chucks.


----------



## ACHiPo

Congratulations!  That looks to be a very nice machine!


----------



## DavidR8

Thanks @SLK001, I did exactly that yesterday 

Thanks @ACHiPo, I'm pretty stoked about it!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

FOMOGO said:


> You have to be a happy camper. Very nice machine for your first endeavor. Cheers, Mike


Thanks Mike, I noticed you said first...


----------



## Janderso

David,
You have a very nice lathe. 
I haven't read through all the responses. I wanted you to be warned in advance before you damage your spindle bearings.
I assume you are going to be tempted to check your spindle bearings, you have the brass/bronze bearings.
There is a right and a wrong way to remove/install/adjust them. Please get help here before you touch the head stock.
There, I feel better. I didn't want you to suffer where others have learned the hard way.
Regards,


----------



## DavidR8

Thanks @Janderso, I'm very pleased with it.
From the overall condition of the lathe it's seen very little use. I'm inclined to leave the spindle bearings as they are. I will replace the felts however as that seems prudent.
I appreciate your concern and caution on my behalf, thank you


----------



## SLK001

Looking at your spindle nose, I didn't realize that the 10K had a collet closer built in.  I take it that you didn't get a collet drawbar set?  I think that it takes 6K collets.


----------



## DavidR8

It does take 6K collets. Unfortunately no collets or the closer were included. 
Not a huge deal to me as I think I would rather go with ER40 collets and an appropriate chuck. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------

