# Tool Holder Hotel



## Tolerent (Apr 14, 2020)

How many QCTP Holders is enough and what should I consider doing to keep them out of the way and easy to find and manage?

Given the resources and space would having:

One set dedicated to holding replaceable carbide tools for hard metals.
One set dedicated to holding replaceable carbide tools for soft metals.
One set dedicated to holding shop ground HSS tools.
So my questions seem to be:

How many holders in each set? (inside and outside turning, threading, ???)
Which general purpose holders to use as default holders? (250-201 or 250-201)
How to keep a plethora of holders with sharp edges from hiding when I need them and cutting what I don't want cut?
I am new to precision machining so anticipating a steep learning curve. in my previous life precision with my own work was seldom measured in anything finer than 32nds and that because I am a perfectionist. My lathe should arrive in a few weeks. It has a BXA tool post and comes with a few 250-201 and 250-202 tool posts. There are also parting, knurling, and boring tool holders but in my current perception those are peripheral to the matter at hand.

What do you all reccomend?

Also as a side note do you generally kiss the edge of a new carbide insert with a diamond lapping stone before putting it into use or use as received?


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## DavidR8 (Apr 14, 2020)

I'm far from an expert, but I have nine holders and I expect to add more shop-made holders.
I have eight dedicated holders for carbide and HSS

Facing, turning and threading both HSS and carbide (6 holders total)
Boring carbide only (1 holder)
Parting HSS only at this point. (1 holder)


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## Tolerent (Apr 14, 2020)

Given a starting point with a few flat bottom (201 type) holders and a few with the v groove (202 type) bottom would you add some of each going forward or prefer the flat bottom over the grooved style when you did not know you would be mounting a round rod in the holder?

I am leaning toward 80% flat bottom holders. https://www.amazon.com/Accusizetool...s=250-201+bxa&qid=1586879926&s=hi&sr=1-4&th=1


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## DavidR8 (Apr 14, 2020)

Tolerent said:


> Given a starting point with a few flat bottom (201 type) holders and a few with the v groove (202 type) bottom would you add some of each going forward or prefer the flat bottom over the grooved style when you did not know you would be mounting a round rod in the holder?
> 
> I am leaning toward 80% flat bottom holders. https://www.amazon.com/Accusizetools-Boring-Turning-Facing-0250-0202/dp/B017M9HLN0/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=250-201+bxa&qid=1586879926&s=hi&sr=1-4&th=1


That's a good question. I think part of the decision depends on what size tooling you're using. 
I use 3/8" HSS and 1/2" shank carbide tools. I just checked to see if a 3/8" HSS bit would span the groove and indeed it does. 
So for me it would not make a difference as I could put any tool in a grooved holder. Others with more experience may differ and I'd certainly put more weight to their comments.


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## ThinWoodsman (Apr 14, 2020)

If the insert tools are the same size, you can use the same tool holders for hard and soft metals. You're unlikely to switch from hard to soft metal in the middle of turning a workpiece, and the toolheight settings will not change if the tools are the same.

I didn't feel like buying a whole bunch more toolholders when moving from BXA to CXA; I now have a few dedicated tools (threading, parting, left- and right- trigon, and a triangle insert) in holders, and everything else is set as I use it. With a center-height gauge (ala Joe Pie) it's really not too much trouble to swap a tool into a spare holder.

Oh yeah, on the subject: I recently encountered Aloris *XA-6 and -13 holders and got one of each to experiment with. The -6 can be used to hold multiple tools (e.g. roughing and finishing), a wide form tool, or a tool and a toolpost-mounted-follow-rest (as popularized by Frank Ford). The -13 is an extension that is useful when you need to work close to the tailstock. I am keeping these open as floating tool-holders.

EDIT: Regarding 201 vs 202, the groove can be a liability with narrow tools (e.g. a 1/4" tool in a 1/2" toolholder) as the outer corner tends to fall into the groove when tightening. So 80% flats sounds about right.

Regarding carbide inserts, I use a diamond hone before use. Really helps 'em get a bite into the metal, especially with shallow cuts. Carbide inserts are very dull compared to HSS tools but it only takes a couple passes with a hone to give them an edge.


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## macardoso (Apr 14, 2020)

I like the grooved bottom holders as they work for both square and round shank tools without any drawbacks to either.

My setup is this:

CCMT Facing/Turning tool (Insert for Steel)
CCMT Facing/Turning tool (Insert for Non-Ferrous)
SCMT Chamfer tool
VMCT RH fine finish tool
VCMT LH fine finish tool
3/4" CCMT boring bar
1/2" CCMT boring bar
1/2" !R16 Threading tool
3/8" LH (upside down) 11IR Threading tool
MTVOR (TNMC) RH external threading tool
HSS Parting blade holder
Thinbit Groove N' Turn grooving tool (purchased for a paid job - works AWESOME)
MTGNR TNMG holder for heavy roughing
Obviously not necessary to have all of these, but thought it might be interesting to share.

EDIT: I never use small tool bits in my holders (always 1/2" shank tools) so I don't need to worry about the groove. It is always bridged.

I have an AXA toolpost.


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## ChrisAttebery (Apr 14, 2020)

Here's my selection so far:

OD:
Non Ferrous CCGT 32.51 RH, Center (Chamfer and Face), LH
Non Ferrous TCGT 32.51 RH 15 degree, LH 15 degree
Ferrous CCGT 32.51 RH, Centered (Chamfer and face), LH
Nikcole Mini Systems THE-7-1/2RH.500 (external threading and grooving)
Shars 11/16" Retrofit GTN-2 cut off and grooving blade

ID:
Shars 1" SCLCR Indexable Boring Bar - CCGT 32.51 inserts 1.25"+
1/2" SCLCR Indexable Boring Bar - CCGT 32.51 inserts 0.625"+
3/8" ???? Indexable Boring Bar - CCMT 520 inserts - 0.375"+
Shars 5/8" Indexable Threading Internal Threading Bar - 16IR inserts - .75"+

Home brewed BXA dial indicator holder.

2 empty BXA - 201 style holders for job specific HSS form tools, solid carbide tools, etc.

17 holders total.


Here are some pictures of the rack I made. This was only about 2/3 of the tools I have on it now.


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## Tolerent (Apr 14, 2020)

ThinWoodsman said:


> If the insert tools are the same size, you can use the same tool holders for hard and soft metals. You're unlikely to switch from hard to soft metal in the middle of turning a workpiece, and the toolheight settings will not change if the tools are the same.
> 
> I didn't feel like buying a whole bunch more toolholders when moving from BXA to CXA; I now have a few dedicated tools (threading, parting, left- and right- trigon, and a triangle insert) in holders, and everything else is set as I use it. With a center-height gauge (ala Joe Pie) it's really not too much trouble to swap a tool into a spare holder.
> 
> ...


My thought was setting a tool on a holder properly takes a lot more time than swapping out holders. At $20 each a holder is cheaper than the time value of just a dozen or so tool swaps. I am sure some hobbyists are even swapping the carbides out for different passes or as materials are changed. I would not want my half worn carbides mixed with new or the challenge of tracking which edges are used and which are ready to use. I pretty much think when a bit holder gets a bit in it and gets mounted in a tool holder that there won't be any changes to that assembly except rare height adjustments and indexing the bit clockwise until time to discard it or to flip it over for the remaining edges. I can't imagine swapping a silver bit for a gold bit in the same holder if I have the option to have a second assembly. Ideally all my swapping will be assemblies swapped out on the BXA post.


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## Suzuki4evr (Apr 14, 2020)

In my opinion you will never have enough.I have 15 from wich I made 11 and it still is not enough.  As you go along you will need and want more. Storage, as Chris showed in the post before mine, I do it basically in the same way,I just mount my dickonson tipe holders at a 45dgr angle. Carbide inserts you use as they come. Hope this helped a bit.


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## macardoso (Apr 14, 2020)

Tolerent said:


> My thought was setting a tool on a holder properly takes a lot more time than swapping out holders. At $20 each a holder is cheaper than the time value of just a dozen or so tool swaps. I am sure some hobbyists are even swapping the carbides out for different passes or as materials are changed. I would not want my half worn carbides mixed with new or the challenge of tracking which edges are used and which are ready to use. I pretty much thing when a bit holder gets a bit in it and gets mounted in a tool holder that there won't be any changes to that setup except rare height adjustments and indexing the bit clockwise until time to discard it or to flip it over for the remaining edges. I can't imagine swapping a silver bit for a gold bit in the same holder if I have the option to have a second assembly. Ideally all my swapping will be assemblies swapped out on the BXA post.



I totally agree here. My most used tools (CCMT OD turning and facing) are duplicated for steel/cast iron inserts and aluminum inserts.

I paint my inserts corners with red Dykem when they are used but good, and blue when they are worn or chipped. The red inserts end up being used for roughing and when an insert is all blue, it goes in my carbide graveyard. Started doing this one day because I was bored, but since then it has been a useful habit.


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## Tolerent (Apr 14, 2020)

ChrisAttebery said:


> Here's my selection so far:
> 
> OD:
> Non Ferrous CCGT 32.51 RH, Center (Chamfer and Face), LH
> ...


Now THAT's what I was looking for...

The standard has been set lets see something that makes Chris wish he had done it your way.


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## Suzuki4evr (Apr 14, 2020)

If you have the tools and time,make your own like I did. So you will have fun and save some $. That is if you have a milling machine


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## Tolerent (Apr 14, 2020)

Suzuki4evr said:


> If you have the tools and time,make your own like I did. So you will have fun and save some $. That is if you have a milling machine


I imagine I will be tooled up for the lathe before I have a milling machine and the ability to heat treat finished products.


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## ThinWoodsman (Apr 14, 2020)

Tolerent said:


> My thought was setting a tool on a holder properly takes a lot more time than swapping out holders. At $20 each a holder is cheaper than the time value of just a dozen or so tool swaps.



It takes a _lot_ more time, about a minute versus say ten seconds. It is time I am willing to waste, though, in order to keep the number of QCTP holders reasonable. Swapping an identical tool out in order to use different inserts (lets not even get into swapping inserts, for reasons well covered) doesn't require any changes to the toolholder height, and can be done while the toolholder is clamped in the QCTP.

Something also to keep in mind when mapping this out is roughing vs finishing. You can basically use the same insert for all materials when roughing, then use material-specific inserts (or HSS) for finishing. Parting is pretty similar - I've used the same carbide insert on aluminum, copper, stainless, 12l14, brass, and cast iron. It parts. What you probably want to concern yourself with is the specialized toolholders for the finishing pass, and just have a basic set of roughing tools.


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## ChrisAttebery (Apr 14, 2020)

I *KNOW* that there are guys with a lot more tools than I have, but for what I do this set up works pretty well. There's always some other tool you wish you had though.

Yes, you can swap inserts back and forth and yes they are close enough to the same height that you shouldn't have to adjust them every time. But I've found that invariably the wrong insert is in the tools when I need them.

I've tried to use the same insert in all of the tools that I can. I use Dragon brand non ferrous polished inserts from Carbide Depot that have a 25 degree edge and they are sharp. For ferrous I use light finishing inserts. They don't have an aggressive chip breaker, but IMHO my 2hp13x40 lathe isn't an industrial machine and shouldn't be taking huge cuts anyway.

All of my CCGT OD tools were all machined from 1045 steel on my CNC converted G0704 mill. I haven't hardened them. I recently made a couple fly cutters that use the 100 degree corner that the turning tools don't use. Running a carbide fly cutter at 4500 RPM and .005"IPT is heaven compared to using a HSS fly cutter.


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## Aaron_W (Apr 14, 2020)

At a minimum you need as many as the number of tool changes needed on a particular project. More than that is a luxury, less than that kind of negates the advantage of the QC tool post. The usual starter package with 2-3 basic holders and 1 each of the specialty holders is a decent start that should cover your needs. Maybe throw in a couple extra of the basic holders as they get used the most. 

Being able to set up a tool one time and never again would be nice, but what you really want to avoid is having to change tools in the holders during a project. It isn't so much the time it takes, as the inconvenience of setting up a new tool holder in the middle of a project. Setting them up prior to starting actually goes pretty fast.


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## greenail (Apr 14, 2020)

if you have a 3d printer you may be interested in these cleats i designed.  They work well and print fast.  they only really need one screw.  they are sized for oxa holders but the design would work for any of the dove tail type holders.  I just zip them to the wall with a screw and they are easy to move around.









						Oxa 0xa quick change tool post holder holder by greenail
					

simple holder for shars OXA tool post holders. Hard to show these since you don't really see them.  I printed with .8mm nozzle and they took about 10 minutes to print.




					www.thingiverse.com


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## Mitch Alsup (Apr 14, 2020)

I have 20 201-xxx holders, 18 in use, 2 spare.

I mainly use CNMG tooling. Here I use 32.51, 32.52, and 32.53 inserts depending. I also have CCGT inserts for the same holders for softer materials.
Of these I have the 80º tool holder and the 100º too holder so I can use all 8 edges. Right, Left, center 80 and center 100.
I use TCGT boring bars in 3 different sizes 6mm and 7mm use small inserts, 8, 10, 12, and 16 use big inserts 32.5x
I have 3 interior threading bars 6mm, 8mm, and 13mm
I have 2 exterior threading bars.

Some of the lesser used tooling lives in its square plastic boxes until needed.

I buy inserts in lots of 10, and when I buy insert tooling, I buy 3 different nose radii for turning, and boring, and fine and coarse threading inserts.


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## ChrisAttebery (Apr 14, 2020)

Mitch, Which lathe do you have? I'm not criticizing. I'm no professional. I'm just curious. Not too many hobby sized machines can handle negative rake tooling or inserts with large(r) radius tips. I started with a Shoptask 3in1, moved to a 12x36" belt drive import and wound up with a 13x40" gear head import. I've stuck with positive rake 32.50 or 32.51 inserts because that's what was ground into my head when I started machining. I got most of my information from Practical Machinist or the Chaski boards back in the 90's.




Mitch Alsup said:


> I mainly use CNMG tooling. Here I use 32.51, 32.52, and 32.53 inserts depending. I also have CCGT inserts for the same holders for softer materials.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Apr 14, 2020)

you need exactly as many as you need plus 2 or 3  

I had 5, then 11 and recently made another 22. I have 5 spare and will probably be making a couple of new tools to use some of those. Changing tools or inserts is a pain in the bum, which is what prompted making the extra 22. Now I just have to print up enough holders to put the tool holders somewhere other than on my bench, getting in the way.


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## Mitch Alsup (Apr 14, 2020)

ChrisAttebery said:


> Mitch, Which lathe do you have? I'm not criticizing. I'm no professional. I'm just curious. Not too many hobby sized machines can handle negative rake tooling or inserts with large(r) radius tips. I started with a Shoptask 3in1, moved to a 12x36" belt drive import and wound up with a 13x40" gear head import. I've stuck with positive rake 32.50 or 32.51 inserts because that's what was ground into my head when I started machining. I got most of my information from Practical Machinist or the Chaski boards back in the 90's.



My lathe is a Grizzly G4003G with 2HP.

I have turned mild steel with a 1/4" radius tool I stoned out of a 1/4" flat carbide brazed bit. The chips came off and turned a marvelous shade of blue, stinking up the whole machine shop from the smoking cutting oil.

I, personally, have never had a problem with negative rake tooling no my lathe ding mostly 6061 Aluminum, but occasionally mild steel. I also do not try to stress the machine or tooling to the max--I am not production, I am hobby and use lower speeds and feeds that recommended by the book, and smaller DoCs than the book, ...
I don't know If I ever had "practical" learning on using my lathe, but 2 decades of Taig micro lathe led me to slower and smaller gets the job done eventually. Surprisingly I don't seem to have finish problems using negative rake tooling on my lesser machines--which leads me to believe I'm doing something right.


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## GunsOfNavarone (Apr 14, 2020)

Tolerent said:


> Given a starting point with a few flat bottom (201 type) holders and a few with the v groove (202 type) bottom would you add some of each going forward or prefer the flat bottom over the grooved style when you did not know you would be mounting a round rod in the holder?
> 
> I am leaning toward 80% flat bottom holders. https://www.amazon.com/Accusizetools-Boring-Turning-Facing-0250-0202/dp/B017M9HLN0/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=250-201+bxa&qid=1586879926&s=hi&sr=1-4&th=1


I would suggest the Shars version, you won't be disappointed!
Shars BXA holder


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## Cadillac (Apr 14, 2020)

That’s a tough question it all depends on how deep your pockets are? I personally don’t like having to changing tools and I like to see what I have so I bought as many as my tray could hold. Some standard size, some xl, some with a groove for boring bars, some for threading, parting blades of different flavors. Some setup for facing, left hand tools, right hand tools. I e made acouple for large boring, dedicated knurling, one for mt3 so I can mount a chuck and drill off the carriage. I keep 3 just for the occasional switching of tool for specific purpose. I think allindustrial tools has the best price to quality for holders their nicely made and good finish. Have around 30 holders for the bxa. And then the smaller lathe has axa which I have about a dozen it never ends. When you think you have enough buy acouple more.


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## ChrisAttebery (Apr 14, 2020)

GunsOfNavarone said:


> I would suggest the Shars version, you won't be disappointed!
> Shars BXA holder



DO NOT buy those BXA tool holders from Shars. Those are 3” long verses the normal 3.5”. The set screws are set really close together too. I just sent an order back because they aren’t the same as every other BXA I’ve bought from them. They are more like an AXA with a BXA dovetail.


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## Tolerent (Apr 15, 2020)

ChrisAttebery said:


> DO NOT buy those BXA tool holders from Shars. Those are 3” long verses the normal 3.5”. The set screws are set really close together too. I just sent an order back because they aren’t the same as every other BXA I’ve bought from them. They are more like an AXA with a BXA dovetail.


Now I have a dilemma as I found those apparently exact holders on eBay for $12.90 each with shipping for 15 units being  $21.10and $16.64 sales tax they work out to 15.42 each. I could live with 1/2" narrower for that pricing. *But, they also note two different post styles (piston or wedge) and that they are not interchangeable.???* I am getting a PM1340GT. Will these fit?









						Shars BXA #1 Quick Change Turning Facing Tool Post Holder CNC 250-201 L=3.5" ^}  | eBay
					

SHARS NUMBER. Certificate for each batch. WEDGE 202-947 0. WEDGE 202-9474(251-111). SET SCREW THREAD SIZEM10x19. WEDGE 202-947 1. HOLDER NUMBER #1. HOLDER CAPACITY 5/8.



					www.ebay.com


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## ChrisAttebery (Apr 15, 2020)

At that price I’d say go for it. Piston or wedge doesn’t matter as long as they are the right series. I paid $21 each and I wasn’t happy when they showed up.


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## erikmannie (Apr 15, 2020)

My lathe cabinet has large drawers on the left & right hand sides. The left drawer has fifteen 101s and 102s (I have AXA). The right drawer has all the other tool holders (5 tool holders e.g. parting, boring).

I leave my cutting tools in the tool holders. Even with all these holders, I still have to change bits sometimes.


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## Cadillac (Apr 15, 2020)

Tolerent said:


> Now I have a dilemma as I found those apparently exact holders on eBay for $12.90 each with shipping for 15 units being  $21.10and $16.64 sales tax they work out to 15.42 each. I could live with 1/2" narrower for that pricing. *But, they also note two different post styles (piston or wedge) and that they are not interchangeable.???* I am getting a PM1340GT. Will these fit?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



If you call Allindustrialtools with you order they will give you a deal on a bulk purchase have done it along with others. Their price is cheaper than shars with shipping and the quality is a lot better. There’s no difference in the holders so they will fit a piston or wedge doesn’t matter.


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## BGHansen (Apr 15, 2020)

I have around 40 tool holders at my Grizzly G0709 and around 25 at my Clausing 5418.  I'll be the first to admit it's excessive and I haven't used them all.  Why so many, went down the rabbit hole as I was selling off a toy collection and had a lot of expendable income.  Short version is I had the space and budget to overdo it.

My "go to" is a CNMG 3-size.  If I'm turning between centers and risk getting tight to the tail stock center, I'll go to a RH 'T' or 'V' style insert.

The inserts are mainly Chinese, have had good luck with them.  I'll stone the tips on occasion but frankly, for the price, they usually hit the trash once all of the edges have been used.

I generally part with a GTN style tool.  Use the HSS T-shaped blade one also.  For boring bars, I go with the largest bar that will fit the hole for rigidity.  Other higher use ones are my knurler and 16ER threading tools.  Have an indicator mounted too for 4-jaw dialing in. 

Both lathes have one HSS tool mounted for turning on an interrupted cut which can hammer and snap carbide inserts.  Also have some spare holders.  Most of mine came from CDCOtools.com back in the day when BXA facing ones were $11 each and facing/boring (has a 'V' groove cut in the bottom to center up round bars) for $12.  Shipping was always WAY too much, so would pick up 10 at a time which made them around $15 each delivered.

I measured the height difference between my Clausing and Grizzly lathes have a ground spacer for use on the Clausing so I can grab a Grizzly tool and throw it on the Clausing without having to adjust the center height.

Bruce


BXA's on my G0709 lathe.  Rack is Unistrut with aluminum brackets that fit in the dovetail.



BXA's on my Clausing lathe.  Same style rack & brackets



Insert storage at the G0709, similar storage at the Clausing.



More inserts and boring bars at the G0709.  Have a 06IR and 08IR threading boring bars not mounted to tool holders plus a few other miscellaneous bars.



More insert and boring bar storage.


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## macardoso (Apr 15, 2020)

Dear God...

I love it and I am very jealous


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## BGHansen (Apr 15, 2020)

macardoso said:


> Dear God...
> 
> I love it and I am very jealous


Well, each QCTP tool holder and insert tool holder probably average less than $30 each.  I bought a lot of stuff from eBay seller "zimi-hk".  ER16 tool holders with 10 bits are around $10, so a couple hundred bucks can fill a rack pretty quickly.

Bruce


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## Cadillac (Apr 15, 2020)

I order and like zimi-hk also


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## Buffalo21 (Apr 17, 2020)

I have about 85 blocks loaded, multiple TNMG, VNMG, CCMT, CNMG, WNMG, TPG and various other oddball turning tools, 5 or 6 threading tools, 5 different types of parting tools, boring bar holders and a few others.


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## macardoso (Apr 17, 2020)

Buffalo21 said:


> I have about 85 blocks loaded, multiple TNMG, VNMG, CCMT, CNMG, WNMG, TPG and various other oddball turning tools, 5 or 6 threading tools, 5 different types of parting tools, boring bar holders and a few others.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Folks, we have a winner!


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## Tolerent (Apr 18, 2020)

Buffalo21 said:


> I have about 85 blocks loaded, multiple TNMG, VNMG, CCMT, CNMG, WNMG, TPG and various other oddball turning tools, 5 or 6 threading tools, 5 different types of parting tools, boring bar holders and a few others.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Now tell us all you have this tooling for a HF 7x14.


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## AGCB97 (Apr 18, 2020)

As far as a rack to hold them, I did it the cheap and easy way. Ripped wooden dovetails and then when cutting them to length they were cut at a slight angle so tools would not slide off onto my head.






They are mounted on a vertical plywood suspended from the wall and ceiling above head height. You can see that on the right rear of this pic above lathe. They are behind the T_handles



In a small shop you have to keep coming up with novel storage ideas!
Aaron


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## Suzuki4evr (Apr 18, 2020)

Buffalo21 said:


> I have about 85 blocks loaded, multiple TNMG, VNMG, CCMT, CNMG, WNMG, TPG and various other oddball turning tools, 5 or 6 threading tools, 5 different types of parting tools, boring bar holders and a few others.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Now this is just bragging........come on admit it. 

Nice collection Buffalo21.


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## Suzuki4evr (Apr 18, 2020)

macardoso said:


> Folks, we have a winner!


Jip


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## Buffalo21 (Apr 18, 2020)

Tolerent said:


> Now tell us all you have this tooling for a HF 7x14.



jet 14 x 40


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## Buffalo21 (Apr 18, 2020)

Suzuki4evr said:


> Now this is just bragging........come on admit it.
> 
> Nice collection Buffalo21.



really I’m just bad at finding the right tooling, a lot of trial and error, with lots of questionable decisions. Some I use everyday, others I use once or twice a year, even others I bought and found they work on one material great, but are about worthless on everything else.


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## ThinWoodsman (Apr 18, 2020)

AGCB97 said:


> As far as a rack to hold them, I did it the cheap and easy way. Ripped wooden dovetails and then when cutting them to length they were cut at a slight angle so tools would not slide off onto my head.



That's a very good idea! Cheap, simple, and versatile - hits enough marks that I may have to steal it 

The guy I got my lathe from handed me a 2x2 sheet of plywood with a half-dozen metal hangers for CXA dovetails - basically aluminum versions of what greenail has in #17. They look simple enough to fabricate: mill a trench slot down opposing sizes, drill and tap for a SCS up top, dill through the face for mounting to a board. Don't want to buy a bunch of aluminum just for this, though.

Currently have all the BXAs in a tool cabinet drawer. and the CXAs just sitting on a shelf that tops the splashguard I built behind the lathe. No problems with them falling or getting knocked around, but would be nice to free up that shelf space.


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## Cadillac (Apr 18, 2020)

I also use wood to hold my holders. I thought it would’ve better than wasting valuable chunks of aluminum and no chance of scratching surfaces. A delrin or plastic would be good just didn’t have at the time. Now finding out delrin is the same price as steel I’m gonna stick with wood.


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## ACHiPo (Apr 19, 2020)

I like this design,,,


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