# Enco 110-2032 switch wiring



## Crazed Dan (Oct 26, 2022)

I re acquired a lathe I bought new in 2000. It came back as a gift. It was never used and stayed in storage until I got it back a couple months ago.
I changed the transformer out and the temporary switches work but the other lever did not. I purchased a new  switch but of course it's different.
I am at my a loss.
The attached photos show the old switch and there are some diagrams I've gotten as help but I'm still confused.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Oct 26, 2022)

Dan: wow- dormant for 22 years?  That's gotta be some kind of record.
Let me take a look and see what's what
-Mark
1) How is the new switch different than the old one?
2) Are the 4 wires from the lathe to the switch numbered 4,5,6 and 7?
3) Is it possible the old switch is still good? Is the part number still visible?

That'll do for starters...apparently the original switches on those machines have a special contact arrangement- hard to find a direct replacement
The Grizzly and the Enco don't always match up electrically


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## Crazed Dan (Oct 27, 2022)

Sorry to have taken so long to respond but my cell phone hates the Hobby Machinist site software.

Awnsers:
1: The new switch is slightly larger with eight connection point vs 4 in the old switch.
2: No,  the wires are numbered 3,4,5&6.
3: The old switch shows no visible part  number.
Before I removed the old switch it did show voltage at the connection points but there was zero response from the on/off rod/lever.
After removing the switch I decided to disassemble to check for obvious faults but the switch exploded during disassembly.
I've included more photos.
I really appreciate your help.
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Oct 27, 2022)

OK, next can you shoot some views of the inside of the control box/contactor box- I need to see which version you have 
-M


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## Crazed Dan (Oct 27, 2022)

Here are some pics before I changed the transformer. The transformer was dead. Voltage in zero out.
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Oct 27, 2022)

Which Grizzly machine was the new switch used in?
Shoot me a pic of your control panel also- thx
I see an error on the factory diagram- your machine has a 24 volt control system so the transformer output should read 0- 24- 110 v not 0-240-110
I'm starting to understand how it worked originally- need a bit more cogitating


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## Crazed Dan (Oct 27, 2022)

The grizzly was not mine. I'll try and find out what model but getting a pic of the grizzly control panel may be an issue but I'll get started.


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## markba633csi (Oct 27, 2022)

I need a pic of your Enco control panel and secondly need to know which Grizzly model this piece of schematic matches to:
Also, do you have a multimeter that measures continuity (ohms)?


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## markba633csi (Oct 27, 2022)

I don't believe you can use the new switch,  we can ring it out with a meter but my hunch is it won't be a drop-in replacement.
Your original was a custom switch with normally closed contacts in the "0" or middle position apparently.
Some lathes were equipped with a single cylinder switch and some with a pair of microswitches for the forward/reverse lever.
You might be able to find a cylinder switch of the proper type.  The other option is to install a pair of microswitches and a cam from the
forward/reverse lever.  That would probably be my choice.  Most of the more modern lathes use the microswitch approach.
Let me study it for another day and see if maybe we can kluge the switch somehow- maybe some electrical magic is possible


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## Crazed Dan (Oct 28, 2022)

See the attached pics. This is from the grizzly that the switch like I have was installed. My multi meter is dead. If I really need to I can buy another.


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## markba633csi (Oct 28, 2022)

But you have an Enco correct? Is the front panel the same as the G4003?  Show me a pic of your front panel
Where did you buy the new switch from?  Amazon?  What is the full part #? I can see HZ5B-10/2 and there should be some digits after that-
We need to verify the internal contacts of the new switch somehow.

BTW have you checked to see that the new switch will mount up the same as the old one? Mounting holes and shaft size the same?
If not I would hold off on modifying the machine until we verify the switch internals

Would you be willing to re-purpose the inching/jog button?  There may be a way we could make the new switch work
with a slight re-wire but we would need to change the inching button into an "enable" button


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## Crazed Dan (Oct 28, 2022)

This is not going to be a high use lathe. It is beginning to sound like a great deal of effort on a lot of folks parts. I could live with a simple external switch mounted on the gear head cabinet.

I did look at the modifications required to adapt the new switch to the lathe. Doable with some effort. I'll attack a pic of my lathe panel.
At this point if I can get this lathe to turn down and thread I'd be happy.


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## markba633csi (Oct 28, 2022)

I think I have a hookup you can try- if it doesn't work nothing bad will happen, it just won't work, or might just run in one direction.
On your new switch:
1) Tie 1 and 3 together with jumper wire, connect lathe wires 3 and 6 to those.
2) Connect lathe wire 4 to switch 2
3) Connect lathe wire 5 to switch 4
Try that and report back

Is there another panel with more buttons? I only see the E-stop..


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## Crazed Dan (Oct 28, 2022)

I attached per instructions and it did nothing. (I did splice #3 wire to a short red wire to reach the connector). See attached.
I also tried the temporary  forward and reverse switches while all of this was connected and it still works in a temporary fashion.
It's a good thing I don't repair lathes for a living. I'd be broke with many cursing customers.
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Oct 28, 2022)

Are you sure you are IDing the terminals correctly?  This is where a continuity checker would come in handy
How about this: disconnect the switch and connect 3,4 and 6 together.  Should run forward.  If so,  then try 3, 5 and 6 together; should get reverse. 
Let me know


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## Crazed Dan (Oct 28, 2022)

Connected the 3,4 and 6  wires you indicated and nothing happened. So I tested each wire unconnected. the #6 is the only wire showing voltage (24V). The rest showed nothing. I also tested the connection where the wires hook to the cable going to the switch. Same reading #6 had 24 volts, the others nothing. Obviously there is something wrong in the electrical control panel and the old switch was ok. Also #5 wire has no voltage.I Ied you in the wrong direction due to my ignorance and advice I took from an electrician.


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## markba633csi (Oct 29, 2022)

Questions/checklist:
1) Didn't you mention your meter was broken? Or only partially? Still reads AC volts?
2) The diagram might not match the machine or there is a failure- I think we should re-measure again- I'll mark up the diagram and repost
3) You still need to post the whole part # for the switch (unless there aren't any more digits than HZ5B-10)
4) I still want to see the rest of the buttons- start button, etc.- being as how your machine is different than the Grizzly
5) Does the inching/jog button work?


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## markba633csi (Oct 29, 2022)

Measure between points A and B/3 on the diagram you should see 24 volts AC, if the lathe is powered on.
Then, connecting the two switch wires 3 and 6 you should hear the little relay M3 click, latch, and there should be 24v between A and C/6.
Separating the wires 3 and 6 and hitting the E-stop button should make the M3 relay drop out.
If no click or voltages then we need to investigate further
-M


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## Crazed Dan (Oct 29, 2022)

Thanks much.
Ill get to all this later today.
I do have a volt meter that works.
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Oct 29, 2022)

Forgot to mention- you may need to temporarily extend the switch wires 3 and 6 to do the tests if the contactor box is behind the lathe- any kind of
thin, insulated wire would do.
You need to be able to get your nose right in there- you might even be able to visually see the little relay pull
Be careful- you might want to put some tape on some of the exposed terminals for safety's sake when you are testing
Keep the rotary switch disconnected for now.  I suspect the little relay may be faulty


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## Crazed Dan (Oct 29, 2022)

1. Other switch numbers :
GB/T14048-3
IEC 60947-3
2. The Inch/Jog switches work. F&R.
I was getting ready to do some more testing and discovered something. Look at the upper portion of pic. #2. There are three metallic links going from the (relay box?) To the inching box connector. The two on the left are in tact and connected but the one on the right W/6 Has a section missing.
I felt like you might need to see this before I proceeded with your testing recommendations.
Let me know and I'll pursue testing.
Thanks Danny


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## Crazed Dan (Oct 29, 2022)

Here is a pic you requested I forgot about.


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## markba633csi (Oct 29, 2022)

Are you saying there are no other buttons on the machine? Just the red E-stop?
No start button? No power on light?  If so then the diagram doesn't match your machine
Do the tests anyhow.  See what happens
I see the metal links but don't know what it means
I see something else fishy: the little Omron relay is a 2 pole not a 3 pole like the diagram- that's a puzzle
We're pretty much shooting in the dark here without a proper diagram.
See if any combinations of those 4 wires will do anything at all- maybe we'll get lucky


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## Crazed Dan (Oct 30, 2022)

As to the wiring diagram in the manual I bought as an aftermarket item, I agree, it's for another model.
In my research I have found very little on this model. It must of had a short life. There is no start/stop button. The long rod with a lever that connects to the switch is the only way I see to power the lathe. No light to indicate on/off. Perhaps this lathe was designed by Satan.
It's been so long since I've worked with this lathe my old brain just can remember. I never had any problems with what I used it for. I'll do some more checking and testing. I will be gone most of this coming week. I'm not abandoning the lathe just will be out of touch for a bit.
Perhaps someone on this sight will have a diagram.
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Oct 30, 2022)

Sorry, I tried.  There should be some combination of those 4 wires that will activate it if there is nothing wrong otherwise.
If it was mine I would probably re-wire it in a simpler way but that may be
more than you're willing to tackle
Let's let it rest for a week and maybe we can explore other options
-Mark
Yep, Satan


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## Crazed Dan (Oct 30, 2022)

I agree and appreciate all you've done.
One more thought. Could you post a request for a copy of the original wiring diagram on the appropriate forum in Hobby Machinist?
I can also do this (I think) but I'm not very familiar with the site as a new member and don't know if I'd choose the best way to do this.
If we had this diagram I believe we could find the problem and be able to make the correct move.
Again, I appreciate your help and patience.
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Oct 30, 2022)

Danny: I just did some more research and apparently there is no published diagram for that exact model.  It seems the factory made some last-minute
changes which never got documented.  I've got a line on some more info which I'm going to pursue.  
I also found that Harbor Freight sold that same lathe years ago-  made by Tida in Taiwan.  No manual available from HF either. 
But never fear, Smith is here.  We can dive back into it again next week.  
-M


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## Crazed Dan (Oct 30, 2022)

Great.
I'm not surprised I bought an oddball. Seems to run in my blood. I know this is not unknown. A lot of the firearms I run across have many "undocumented" generational changes.
Thanks Much,
Danny


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## markba633csi (Oct 30, 2022)

One last thing:  You said the F/R lever on the front panel works?  Runs the motor forward and reverse?  Meaning the apron lever forward/reverse is the only feature that doesn't work correct?
If this is true isn't the lathe functional now?  Except for the apron lever It's still basically running correct? 
-M


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## Crazed Dan (Oct 30, 2022)

No the lever attached to the apron and rotary switch(the one I bought a replacement for) did nothing and just for fun I shifted ever lever on the control panel and nothing happened. What does cause it to run forward and reverse is the two buttons found inside the electrical control panel. See attached photo of buttons. They are marked
 C-16G.


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## markba633csi (Oct 30, 2022)

OK I see. Your nomenclature is throwing me off.  In post #21 you mentioned "inch/jog" switches- those are the main contactors. One for forward and one for reverse.  High power relays. Don't push the test buttons on both of those at the same time,  fireworks will happen.  It'll ruin your day.
Then what does that F/R lever on the front do? Or rather, what is it supposed to do? Is it a gear shift for the leadscrew?


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## Crazed Dan (Oct 31, 2022)

The last photo I sent showing the two buttons marked C-16G are what I was calling the inching/jog switches. Nothing else causes any movement of the lathe. Not the apron lever or any lever on the front panel of the lathe. Other than these two buttons the lathe is dead.  I apologize for my ignorance of lathe terminology. I've never been formally trained. All I ever did was read a lot and had a friend spend a lot of time showing me how to operate this lathe. He owns a well drilling company and used his lathes for turning and threading. That's about all I ever learned on this lathe and it's been years since I used it. Turning and external threading is all I desire to do with this lathe. I really don't know the purpose of all the front levers. If I can get the lathe to run I've got another friend coming over to help me re learn simple lathe operation. I do have a newer mini lathe that I use occasionally but I have a manual!! And youtube is full of information on this mini lathe.
I also have two milling machines I use a lot.
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Oct 31, 2022)

I hear ya.  Looks like the main contactor circuits are working,  it's the lower half of the diagram that needs troubleshooting.
I found some pictures online that should help me reverse-engineer the circuit, I'll keep working on it and let you know. There is a little fuse in there
have you checked it's ok?
In the mean time, see if you can get your meter to work on ohms so you can check continuity.  There is a battery inside the meter for that
function- it may be dead and corroded- check it out. You can also find cheap Radio Shack meters on Ebay.  Old fashioned needle type meters are
fine for this kind of stuff.  
I'm guessing the front F/R lever is for leadscrew direction.
-M


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## Crazed Dan (Oct 31, 2022)

Just ordered volt/ohm meter. May need it to check my wife's resistance to my thoughts anyways.
Thanks Danny


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## Crazed Dan (Oct 31, 2022)

PS:
The fuse is fine. The old one is clean yet for fun I replaced it with a new one when I first started trying to use the lathe. The fuse must be ok because the temporary switches work. I believe the are powered through the fuse from what I can see.


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## markba633csi (Oct 31, 2022)

If you mean the contactors, no they are not fused directly.  When you push the test buttons instead of the coil pulling them, you are physically forcing the contacts together to run the motor.
The fuse is for the low voltage 24v stuff which we are trying to fix


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## tq60 (Nov 1, 2022)

Pushing contactor causes motor run so problem is control.

Read cheap fix with lots of work.

With your ohm meter Chek every switch.

That little omron relay may have bad contact and result in no operation, we have a few bad ones.

You need to start at the end and work to opposite end.

You have a string of Christmas lights that are dead, need to find the bad one.

Looks like many wires are numbered so good.

Start with a notepad, pencil and voltmeter.

Check and confirm 24 vac at transformer.

Leave one wire of voltmeter attached to the transformer and on your notepad make notes, any wire numbers or switches.

Use other meter lead to FOLLOW the voltage.

See where the wire goes and confirm voltage. 

Whatever it connects to confirm it works.


Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


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## markba633csi (Nov 1, 2022)

I'm attempting to reverse-engineer the schematic for his machine-  This may be a first if I am successful


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 9, 2022)

Just got my multi meter in yesterday.
I can begin to measure. Unless someone has a schematic I'll draw one as I check for voltage and continuity.
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Nov 9, 2022)

Hi there, I'll make a short list of tests you can do
-Mark
First, test your switch with the meter set to ohms (any range will work if it's not autoranging)
Check it in all 3 positions and write down which terminals connect in each position
Post your results here, then I'll have you do a couple tests on the control box


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 9, 2022)

I appreciate your help.
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Nov 9, 2022)

I found some photographs online and was able to put together what I think is an accurate representation of the low voltage section
Should be helpful- Connecting 3 and 6 momentarily should latch K3, then connecting 6 to 4 should give forward and 6 to 5 should give reverse.
There might be an open circuit somewhere, or the diode bridge D1 that powers K3 might be bad.  Note: NC contacts on K3 not used


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 10, 2022)

Was getting started and noticed something. The top of the fuse has no wire commented to it. There is a missing screw at the top of the fuse holding bracket. No wire, no screw. This seems messed up.
Let me know.
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Nov 10, 2022)

That would do it- I think it goes to either the transformer 0v terminal or terminal strip #1 depending on which one is missing
 You must have removed it to replace the transformer


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 10, 2022)

Never removed any wires in transformer replacement. I'm beginning to think that the folks that stored this lathe "played " with it. Sure glad it was a gift. I will look closely to see what I can find.
I'll report later.
Thanks Danny


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 10, 2022)

Attached is a photo of the fuse wiring with the old transformer before I ever did anything. It appears to have never had a wire but the top screw was used to hold the old transformer in place. Is this the equivalent to the 0v connection on the new transformer? I read 0 volts to the fuse connections and #1 wires at the main terminal.
When I get a chance I'm going to do the best I can to "create" a schematic of the electrical system or I'm going to give up on this lathe and become a monk.


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## markba633csi (Nov 10, 2022)

What does it look like now?  Shoot a new photo please so I can see what you are seeing
The red "repair" wire that's looping down (and in the way of everything) could be shortened- that would make your life easier
Don't be afraid to push wires out of the way a little to see things better- just be sure the power is off first

One fuse wire should come from the transformer and the other fuse wire should go down to the main terminal strip #1
Both wires are marked #1
The fuseholder has metric screws most likely- I see a trip to the hardware store in your future


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 10, 2022)

Here are pics.


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## markba633csi (Nov 10, 2022)

What were they thinking?  I'm guessing they were planning to add a wire from the fuseholder to the box to complete the circuit but never finished the install
Yes that wire that's screwed to the back of the box needs to go to the upper fuseholder terminal- you'll need to extend it/replace it
Are you certain the transformer puts out the proper 24 volts? You measured it?
Don't want to burn out all your gear

That transformer should be mounted in some way and protected from chips- that's a potential fire/shock hazard bro
If possible I would mount it on the side of the box and run the wires in thru a grommet


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 10, 2022)

Yes the transformer is 24v.
It'll be tomorrow before I get back in the shop.
I'll keep you apprised.
I am aware the trans former needs remounted.
May add its own box.


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## markba633csi (Nov 10, 2022)

OK  we're getting close
I predict fix that fuse wire and it'll come alive
The last detail is the barrel switch


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 11, 2022)

Hallelujah!!!
The damn thing works.
When I calm down I'll double check what wires it temporarily connected to forward and reverse.
I used #6 and touched to the other wires 4 I think forward and 5 reverse.


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## markba633csi (Nov 11, 2022)

Hot dang


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 12, 2022)

After more testing at the rotary switch location I can confirm
#6 +#4 wire is forward
#6 +#5 wire is reverse.
#6 +#3 wire is nothing (neutral?)
You had previously sent a layout for the round
 switch .
Is this layout what I should try?
I really appreciate all your help and wish my ignorance wasn't my strong suit.
By the way no hurry.
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Nov 12, 2022)

Actually 6 + 3 should be necessary to connect momentarily to start the control box,  if the wiring is still original
It's a safety feature that depended on the barrel switch/ apron lever to be in the center off position before the machine would start from cold or an E-stop

We can try shorting 6 and 3 together permanently, but you might find a problem with the E-stop restarting the machine when you
let go of the button- check that out and let me know. 

You need to test your barrel switch in all 3 positions and write down which terminal pairs connect, then we can hook it up
Does your meter have a beep mode? That makes it easier
Ignore any previous info I may have posted about the barrel switch- it's incorrect and was only a guess


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## markba633csi (Nov 12, 2022)

Look for a green light in the little Omron relay and a faint click when you touch 3 and 6 together if the lathe was powered off or E-stopped


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 12, 2022)

Probably Monday before I can do more checking.
By the way, is there any possibility this lathe is female?
Becoming a monk is making more sense.
Thanks Danny


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 14, 2022)

I connected the #3 & #6wires together.
No click, no light with emergency switch on and off nothing. 
I've got a schematic from the supplier of the barrel switch that shows a possible hook up.
Unless you suggest otherwise I'll try that.


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## markba633csi (Nov 14, 2022)

So the lathe will run by just connecting 6 to 4 for forward or 6 to 5 for reverse and you haven't needed to connect 3 and 6 at all? Even after powering up from cold (flipping off the breaker for example)?
Do I have that right?
If the switch diagram you have is from another lathe it may not work
I think you'll need to ring out the switch eventually-


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 14, 2022)

You are correct. I have flipped the breaker off. Waited a while and the 6/4 and 6/5 connections still activate forward and reverse.
This lathe seems to have fewer wires going to the barrel switch than newer lathes.
Perhaps I'm trying to overthink simplicity.
I'm beginning to think #6 or #3 is a ground


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## markba633csi (Nov 14, 2022)

OK understood. You mentioned someone "playing around in there" so that might explain it.  There may be a wire added somewhere.
But--- as long as the E-stop isn't compromised and still stops the machine then you are ok.

You need to spend a couple minutes and beep out the barrel switch-  do that, and then we can wrap this up
Just find one pair of terminals that connects only in forward (apron lever up) and one other pair that connects only in reverse (lever down).  Let me know


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## markba633csi (Nov 15, 2022)

Try 1 and 2 for first pair and 3 and 4 for the second pair
If that looks workable then jump 1 and 3 together and connect those to wire 6
connect 2 to wire 4
connect 4 to wire 5


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 15, 2022)

Will try this in a an hour and let you know


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 15, 2022)

This morning the 4/6 &  5/6 connections did nothing. The temp F/R buttons still work.
Tested the fuse and it shows ok.
Checked all other voltages at transformer and #6 wire. The #6 wire shows 24V from the trans former to the barrel switch. Connected 3/6 and nothing happened. No click, no light in Ormon relay.
My shop has considerable temp variations (currently cold).
I'm beginning to think the Omron has become defective.
I have checked and the Omron in this lathe is available and not terribly expensive.
Going to order one just in case if this sounds feasible to you.

Also the Barrel switch:
Forward is position 6/5
Reverse is position 1/2

Hope I'm not driving you crazy.
Also there is very little slack in the barrel switch wires where I've been testing and I could have accidentally put voltage where it didn't need to go and damaged the Omron.
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Nov 15, 2022)

You could pull out the relay and test the coil with your meter- save buying one if it's still good- the footprint is posted with my diagram (post 42)
No combination of touching the wires 3,4,5 and 6 should hurt anything.
I think we still have an undiagnosed bad connection in there- since you have a new meter we might as well track it down
tomorrow.  The 3 and 6 start function needs revisiting- it's flakey
I actually enjoy this believe it or not- but we could have shaved about 20 posts if we had gone about it differently


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 15, 2022)

Oh well, 
Perhaps we can publish a book .
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Nov 16, 2022)

Power down the lathe (turn off breaker or unplug)
Pull out the little fuse
Measure continuity between #1 and #3 on the big terminal strip


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 16, 2022)

The reading in ohms was Zero for Connection at terminal #1 and #3. Fuse in or out.
Also for fun I checked the Omron.
Same thing, no continuity in opposing connections.
I think I hate the Omron. Also checked both sides of the Omron by rotating the leads on the multi meter.
The only way I could show continuity was position #1 and #6 . You can see a metallic link and that's what it's reading.


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## markba633csi (Nov 16, 2022)

Hold on- Zero ohms and no continuity are opposites.  Zero ohms would be when you short the meter leads together
No continuity would be if they are apart (open circuit or infinite ohms)
What ohm reading are you getting for the relay coil?  No continuity at all?  A good MY2N would measure about 400 to 600 ohms
And the measurement from #1 to #3 should be a short- zero ohms if the E-stop is not pushed in


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 16, 2022)

Forgive me for my misuse of terminology. I assumed if two points resulted in a zero ohms there was no connection. IE: no resistance = zero ohms..
This is what I meant by "no continuity".
Let me look at my multi meter' s instructions.
So for I never looked at them.
I'll remeasure after I make sure I'm taking the readings properly.
I spent years at the old GTE company designing copper cable and ohms and db loss were critical. I designed but never actually took measurements.
Then fiber came along and all that went away in the fiber world.
Ok I'm going to be gone for a few days. I'll be back this Saturday.
Feel free to text but I'll be away from the lathe.
I apologize for my confused old brain ball.
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Nov 16, 2022)

Not trying to give you a hard time just wanting to make sure we are on the same page
BTW what brand and model of meter do you have? Name brand like Fluke or cheapy? 
Reason I'm asking is digital meters sometimes give misleading readings

It does sound like your Omron relay might be bad- how much do they want for a new one?


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 16, 2022)

The meter is an eBay cheapy. Don't remember the name but it had all positive reviews. I'll check it out and let you know. Also I'll order the Omron tomorrow before I leave. I think it's worth trying and I really want to tear the other one apart and review.
Think the price is about $16.
I did find several with the same plug configuration, voltages and part number.


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## markba633csi (Nov 17, 2022)

So just to recap:  Meter on ohms, you short your meter leads together and your meter reads all zeros (or close to) correct? 000.0?
And when you measure #1 to #3 terminal you get the same result? Basically zero?
Then, if your meter leads are NOT touching you get something like a flashing "OL" or an infinity symbol (different meters give different displays)


But when you test the relay coil (corner pins on one end) you get the same result as meter leads apart correct? Seems to be an open circuit?
Do I have all that correct so far?  Did you try different ohms ranges on the meter?  I don't know what ranges your meter has.
The relay coil should give a reading of several hundred ohms if it's ok (the Omron data sheet says about 600 ohms but it might vary)
It should not be an open circuit and it should not be a short.
Shoot me a pic of your meter also, I want to see the ranges (or if it's autoranging)
thanks


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 17, 2022)

I'll be back in the shop Monday and the new Omron should be in also. I'll also review the multimeter instructions. I'll send a message after I've retested everything.
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Nov 18, 2022)

OK Danny


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## Crazed Dan (Nov 22, 2022)

I haven't forgotten the lathe  I'm theoretically about to be in possession of an actual manual soon.
Also this project is causing me to go into psychotherapy. Well I took my dog to a vet and that's pretty close to a psychiatrist.
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Nov 23, 2022)

Let me know when you get the new relay and if it solves the problem
If not I can give you some more pointers
-M


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## AlfromNH (Nov 25, 2022)

@markba633csi i just want to chime in and give you props for all you’re doing to help @Crazed Dan. I’m new to the site and it’s great to see such willingness to share knowledge!

Al


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## Crazed Dan (Dec 8, 2022)

After a couple of weeks of searching I cannot find an approximate set of wiring diagrams.
A friend of mine owns a large machine shop and gave me the name of a technician that makes his living fixing control systems. He came out and reviewed my lathe. He said it was incoherent and had been messed with. He suggested going to a simple on/off/forward and reverse switch. I had previously thought of this since it's an older gear head lathe with manual controls for speed/feed.
This will also be a light use machine.
Your thoughts?


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## markba633csi (Dec 8, 2022)

What happened with the new relay?
Also, you were going to show me a picture of your meter
That would help me help you better


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## Crazed Dan (Dec 8, 2022)

The new relay changed nothing.


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## AlfromNH (Dec 8, 2022)

Crazed Dan said:


> suggested going to a simple on/off/forward and reverse switch. I had previously thought of this since it's an older gear head lathe with manual controls for speed/feed.



FWIW, that's just how this new-to-me TYCO632 lathe is wired; no contactors or relays, just 220v -> spindle switch -> motor


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## markba633csi (Dec 8, 2022)

OK-  with power on, check for 24 volts AC from the fuse (either end if fuse is good) to this terminal on the relay socket:  (relay removed)


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## Crazed Dan (Dec 9, 2022)

Yes it's 24 V AC.
Sorry I took so long .
Thanks Danny


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## markba633csi (Dec 10, 2022)

No problem- I found a couple helpful pictures online 
Next test check for 24 volts AC between these two terminals on the socket:


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## Crazed Dan (Dec 10, 2022)

Yes it checked 24 volts between these two terminals


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## markba633csi (Dec 10, 2022)

OK I think the problem is with the little bridge rectifier- you can see it in the picture, that little black round thing with 4 wires coming out.
Two wires go directly to the socket and the other two have extension wires crimped on- one of those crimps is loose and making a flaky connection.
I'm pretty sure that's what's going on.  The rectifier _could_ be bad but I think a bad connection is more likely.
I would try soldering those crimps.  It's a tight area to work in, you'll have to be careful not to melt the wires.  If you don't have a soldering iron
you could try re-crimping them with a vise-grip.
Fortunately your transformer is out so you have more room
Don't worry if you damage the bridge rectifier- they are dirt cheap to replace. Be gentle with the relay socket though
For better access you could unhook the two bridge rectifier wires from the socket and pull the device toward you


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## Crazed Dan (Dec 11, 2022)

I'm confused. The photo you attached is not of my control board. Am I misunderstanding?
Attached is my control board before and after transformer replacement.


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## markba633csi (Dec 11, 2022)

I found a couple helpful pictures online- another person's machine like yours
You'll have to dig under that rat's nest to reach the rectifier- it's under there somewhere


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## markba633csi (Dec 14, 2022)

I have a suggestion:  You can eliminate the little Omron relay altogether.  You can do without it.
Just pull it out and jump the two #2 wires together like shown:  Just put them under the same screw.
Then connecting #3 to #4 or #5 should give forward and reverse, then we can hook up your barrel switch
to those three wires and you'll have yourself a lathe


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## markba633csi (Dec 15, 2022)




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## Benellibart (Dec 29, 2022)

I was just about to buy one of these lathes, looks like there was two versions but the lack of parts ( did find a manual on EBAY) and the confusion over models scared me off. They were apparently made by TIDA in Taiwan, this model was also sold by Harbor Freight


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## Crazed Dan (Dec 29, 2022)

I bought this lathe new in1999 or 2000. I used it gunsmithing for five or six years. Temporarily Shut down gunsmithing and sold this lathe. It theoretically stayed in storage un used until a few months back when it was given back to me.
It had considerable electrical problems and would not run. I've spent many hours with much help from the hobby Machinist and even hired a professional to check it out. He could not repair the electrical issues for less than $2000.00. His opinion cost me $500.00.
When I originally used it, I had no problems.
I know you should not look a gift horse in the mouth but this one needed shot. All 
 of my efforts to find the correct manual were a failure. I also got the eBay book. The only thing to cover this specific model in this manual was the photo on the front .
OK I'm going to convert this lathe to a simple F,R, N switch operation. If this doesn't work I'll probably scrap it out. I wish I had not accepted this lathe as a gift.
Good luck.
Danny


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