# Shop floor options



## Grandpop (Oct 6, 2017)

Was searching old threads but not finding what I was looking for, so will start anew one. Apologies if this is not correct forum.

I just built  a 12 x 40 garage addition onto existing side of a one car garage, the back 16 ft are my new workspace (12 x 36 lathe, 8 x 32 mill, 6 x 12 surface grinder, 4 x 6 saw, welder, etc.). Walls/ceilings are insulated, drywalled, and now painted, with 6 220 outlets and a dozen double 120 outlets, new lights, so ready to move the machines in. Last thing I was wondering about was coating the concrete floor with epoxy or clear sealer. I want something that will stand up to the hot chips, the truck parked in front of the machine area, and will be easy to sweep (or maybe even mop) up.

Was even toying with idea of peal/stick vinyl tiles, but afraid the hot truck tires or casters (with the small space everything is on wheels) would mess them up.

What have you done to your shop floor and did it hold up?


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## Laytonnz (Oct 6, 2017)

I painted my concrete floor with dulux durebuild ste been 2 years and nothing will even touch it, I acid etched it twice degreased it and water blasted it then let it dry for a week, I've dragged 1 ton of weight on some bots and it didn't touch the paint the only time it comes up is when concrete is removed!

It is starting to wear in front of the lathe where I've beeen standing on chips

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## T Bredehoft (Oct 6, 2017)

Just bare, machine polished cement. Sweeps nicely.  Please don't put any covering on the floor that hot chips will ruin.


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## Old junk (Oct 6, 2017)

Agree with above,plain polished cement.been around auto shops since I could stand,nothing holds up and it just looks horrible when it fails.cement sweep it up and done.


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## woodchucker (Oct 6, 2017)

I would seal it, I hate concrete dust.
I have a wood shop primarily and one shop for metal. I put down the square VCT tiles. mainly because if I dropped a chisel I didn't want my tool chipping. I wanted the tile chipping. It has done that well.
If I had a garage shop, I would seal the floor with a cement sealer, or paint it. So much easier to get the oils off, but more slippery if not done right. So do it right.


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## Silverbullet (Oct 6, 2017)

I vote seal and or paint. Epoxy paints are as hard as concrete.


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## tq60 (Oct 6, 2017)

Let it be as that is easy to maintain and cheap.

Get a bag of cheapest cat litter for oil spills and it will draw oil out well.



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## dlane (Oct 6, 2017)

Concrete Sealer would be it for me


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## FOMOGO (Oct 6, 2017)

I'm planning doing a light grind on my new 2100 sf floor and applying a penetrating sealer to keep down dust and prevent oil stains. Epoxy and paint WILL eventually chip under hard use. I should be able to get 2 coats for under $500, and if you do end up having heavy wear in a hard use area, you can re-coat without extensive prep work. Here's a  blurb on the product: By using a penetrating, impregnating sealer that densifies and hardens concrete and also provides a hydrophobic surface barrier you can ensure a fully waterproofed substrate. One of our favorite concrete water-proofers is Lithi-Tek LS 9500. This sealer is an invisible, penetrating concrete sealer that will not only densify concrete, but it will waterproof and help to prevent deleterious organic growth. The chemically reactive and active ingredients seal the pores within the substrate adequately blocking surface moisture while still maintaining the concretes ability to breathe. It will not significantly modify substrate appearance or traction and will only wear away if the concrete surface itself wears away. New or existing concrete can be treated and performance can be improved in as little as two applications. The concentrated nature of the sealer allows for 1000 sq. ft. of coverage per coat from 1 gallon (two coats are recommended so each gallon will yield 500 square feet worth of coverage) and it is now readily available at HomeDepot.com and Lowes.com. This sealer only costs about $0.10 per square foot per application; considering the cost to replace concrete is about $7.00 per square foot, sealing concrete with the 9500 is a worthwhile investment. Mike


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## brav65 (Oct 7, 2017)

Check out this Video by Ray  Caniglia


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## Glenn Brooks (Oct 7, 2017)

+1 on sealing your concrete floor.  A sealer will prevent oil absorption, but more importantly, will keep concrete dust down, AND, prevent, dirt, dust, chip-scarf-crud, and spider web bodies from layering up on the concrete. 

My shop floor is a two bay building - built by the previous owner of our house.  I am sure he didn't seal the floor. The uncured cement acts as a dirt magnet.  To the point I've had times when the grey concrete was actually brown - the color of the soil around the house. Anyway, I wish I had sealed and painted the whole shop when we moved in - impossible now with all the machine tools scattered around.

BTW, if you don't like the idea of paint/epoxy or otherwise, you could use floor wax.  I think this is what big box warehouse style retail stores use - like Home Depot and Costco. Apply the wax after the sealer and rent a buffer for a day to rub it in.  The wax will absorb into the concrete surface and prevent oils, water and dirt from absorbing.  I think it acts like a surficant.  The concrete texture prevents the wax from being slippery. The University I used to work waxed all the  concrete floors in their PHys Ed building - which had a tremendous level of foot track. - something like 10,000 people a day.  They saw very good results. Long lasting. No paint flaking, hence no big deal to recoat when needed. 
Glenn


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## Jonathans (Oct 7, 2017)

For my wood shop I whave a commercial laminate floor.
For my forge and machine shop, once I found out I had died concrete under the old glue down vinyl tiles off came the tiles!
No more smoldering tiles and easy cleanup. If you have dust issues, seal it as suggested. The only problem with the concrete is that after a long day its hard on the feet.


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## GoceKU (Oct 7, 2017)

I have very cheap ceramic tiles in my machine shop they can get slippery sometimes especially with oil on them but are the easiest to clean, i spray them down with dishwashing detergent and some oven cleaner on the oil stains and wipe them down or use my pressure washer and the place looks like new, for installing them is little more work but should last longer.


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## Firestopper (Oct 7, 2017)

I used a solvent based (xylene) sealer and it has held up well for the most part. Like others have mentioned, concrete dust is a hassle to deal with. I also like the ability to wipe up spills. I will add though, if you allow oil to stand for a long period of time it does leave a very slight stain. The hot work area has done exceptionally well. The automotive (lift) area also has held up well but care with gasoline spill must be wiped up ASAP as it tends to reactivate the the sealer resulting in a sticky floor. I will add many states don't allow the sell of solvent base sealers with only water based options. The problem with water based sealers is reapplication. That said, I have been working in the shop for well over three years and the water still beads up and the floor still has a decent shine. The prep was a PITA and it took me six days to seal 3200 s/f. Rented a floor buffer from home depot and did 1/2 the floor at a time as some since I had items in the shop. The floor had a lot of tire marks from forklift traffic used to erect the building. A TON OF MOPPING followed by two coats rolled on using a 1" nap roller ( solvent grade). I then sealed the expansion joints with self leveling caulk.

1/2 the floor done for obvious reasons. The sealer was allowed to cure for three days. I used a respirator as this stuff is nasty to breathe.




Completed.





This is the most recent condition of the floor 3+ years later (last week). A 14K dump trailer was built in the same area where this photo was taken. The hot work was extensive for this, my point is the floor held up fine. 


A 5 gallon pail runs $170 and covers just over 900 s/f applying two good coats.
I use a fine bristle push broom after working and a 30" dust mop for general cleaning followed up with plain water for mopping. I also keep a spray bottle of diluted simple green for pre treatment around machines (cutting oils) prior to mopping.  

I try to mop every Saturday that I'm off as my dogs also enjoy shop time with "Pops".


I hope this is helpful.

Paco


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## woodchucker (Oct 7, 2017)

firestopper said:


> I try to mop every Saturday that I'm off as my dogs also enjoy shop time with "Pops".


Great pack of dogs you have there. The one on the right looks like my pup. That shop is so nice Paco, I know you've been told a hundred times..


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## Firestopper (Oct 7, 2017)

Awe, thanks Jeff, we love our hell hounds. The pup to the right is Hercules and weighs 108#. 
Thanks for the kind words. 
I will say the floor coating process was very laborious but well worth the effort. 

Paco


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## Grandpop (Oct 8, 2017)

I did not know you could use a buffer on concrete!  That looks like the best solution for me.

I even went to the big box store just to look at their floor. I am liking the buffer followed by sealer and maybe wax. Should be really easy to sweep up and maybe damp mop once in a while.

Just wondering, what is the issue with reapplying water based sealer, as opposed to solvent based?


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## Firestopper (Oct 8, 2017)

Grandpop said:


> I did not know you could use a buffer on concrete!  That looks like the best solution for me.
> 
> I even went to the big box store just to look at their floor. I am liking the buffer followed by sealer and maybe wax. Should be really easy to sweep up and maybe damp mop once in a while.
> 
> Just wondering, what is the issue with reapplying water based sealer, as opposed to solvent based?



From what I understand on water based re application is that some areas will bead up and not penetrate leaving a modeled finish.  I also had to rent a floor buffer as part of the prep, otherwise I would have sealed in the tire marks (forklift traffic). I think wax sealed shop floor would require frequent maintenance to be an effective seal. 
Keep in mind water based sealant won't penetrate if the floor is over buffed (to smooth).
Lots of info out there.


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## wawoodman (Oct 9, 2017)

I used Dri-Core in my shop. Not inexpensive, but much nicer than standing on concrete.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DRIcore-...pen-Insulated-Panel-CDINSU875002402/205505261


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## q20v (Oct 10, 2017)

I used Racedeck tiles in my townhouse garage (20x20'), which are essentially 12x12" plastic that snap together. While it looks nice, it's not practical for the occasional type of work I do, which is cutting, grinding, welding, automotive repairs (jacks and jack stands), lathe, wood working.. The floor is covered in areas where weld spatter has melted little spots, hot lathe chips have embedded into the plastic (I try to pry these out), grinding dust has permanently darkened lighter colored tiles, a big 6" gouge where I put a skill saw down quickly (before the guard snapped around the blade), etc.
I bought the tiles when I first moved into the house and now wish I had simply polished / sealed the concrete. Live and learn. So, don't use Racedeck is what I'm trying to say.


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## Grandpop (Oct 10, 2017)

Been doing some research on sealers. I did not know this was going to be so complicated to chose a sealer type, let alone a brand!

My hand troweled "slick" finished floor seems like it would benefit from a Silane/Siloxane combination penetrating sealer, which should both soak into the floor as well as provide some top protection. Top protection deemed important as NE winters will means snow/ice/salt dripping off the truck on the floor in winter. I really do not need the wet look top coat, and this type would leave the floor looking original color / sheen after treatment.

Foundation Armor SX5000 is one that I am looking at, about $65 / gallon. Comes either water or solvent based. Has high percentage of chemicals (40%), so should last longer than some of the cheaper stuff that is thinner.


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## rgray (Oct 10, 2017)

I went with polyurethane and really like it so far.
Original garage with old concrete I epoxy coated and it lasted pretty well.
New shop concrete I did the same and it didn't last near as long. I guess the concrete was not as hard or time cured? not sure.
Third floor I did last november and I epoxied and polyurethaned and so far it has been great.
I don't feel there's much need for the epoxy other than coloring, so if a concrete look was wanted then just polyurethane alone would probably work great.
I was doing the same as you and there is so much info out there and so many opinions it's hard to tread water.

I have spilled about everything on this floor up to and including battery acid (not on purpose) I've skidded and pipe rolled my mills, lathe, head machine, shaper, and it does just fine.
I used water based "crystal clear semi gloss" from home depot. I thought at $45.00 a gallon it was expensive, but I don't feel that way anymore.


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## cjtoombs (Oct 11, 2017)

I used the Rustoleum two part epoxy garage floor paint.  It holds up well to chips and casters.  The places that have chipped paint also chipped the concrete, so that wasn't on the paint.  I also have a 7000 lb shaper on casters, and it didn't hurt the paint.  Acetone will discolor it and it doesn't get along with hot things at all.


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## whitmore (Oct 11, 2017)

Definitely seal it.    Concrete both dusts (alkaline dust, bad for corrosion) and wicks up water (providing
a reservoir of humidity).   Neither is much good for your motorized investments.   I've used the polyurethane
floor paints (a sealer that you can see when it wears off), and expect that epoxy paints
are likewise acceptable (but could get slippery).

If you want good foot comfort, a few rubber-mat rugs will help, but things like vinyl floor
will just cause every heavy-laden wheel to sink in and stop rolling.   That's inconvenient
when there's heavies to be shifted.

Good urethane concrete floor paint is rather... stinky.   Plan on a week before you want to move in,
and/or leave doors and windows open while it cures.


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## f350ca (Oct 11, 2017)

Won't help with an existing floor but the cement guy that poured my shop suggested a sealer that has to be applied when power troweling, think at the very end. The cement has to still be wet. After 11 years the floor is still dust free and no oil stains even though Im a lousy house keeper

Greg


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## Glenn Brooks (Oct 13, 2017)

One little tip about cleaning up oil spills on concrete floors. The Mech Infantry mechanics we used to hire part time told me they always kept a trash can full of kitty litter and a couple of small wooden 2"x4" blocks at their work station in their automotive shops.  Any time they had an oil spill they would scrub  the concrete floor with  a 2x4 block and a handful of kitty litter.  Always lifted the oil right out of concrete, with never a stain. I've tried it many times since - always works perfectly. And vastly more cheap than oil absorbent stuff.

glenn


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