# Alba 1A  shaper - how to deal with nicks, dents in table traverse support machined surface?



## joco_nz (Nov 27, 2020)

I am in the process of cleaning/restoring my Alba 1A shaper.   The machined surface that the table support runs on has seen better days - see the attached pics. I'm referring to the machined surface that the hammer handle is resting on in pic #1.   As you will see in pic #2 the left 1/4 has had a hard life at some point with a big ding and some pitting.  Short of a complete remachine and of course finding access to a machine that will be able to accomodate the base  I am interested in advice on alternative ways to solve.

For example I have wondered if making a strip of 5mm cast iron that is glued with a suitable epoxy over the old surface.  I could then scrape things into to correct orientation/alignment.  The load on the part would basically be all down with a small side load as the support leg traverses across.

Anyway, advice gratefully received.

Cheers,
James.


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## Ulma Doctor (Nov 27, 2020)

Rulon and turcite can be adhered to the base and provide new bearing surface.
It will need to be scraped to final dimension


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## NortonDommi (Nov 27, 2020)

I have an Alba-1A as well. To paraphrase the immortal words of  Alfred E. Neuman "Why worry?"  That area is for the table support leg to run on and the only time it ever has load is when a very heavy cut is being taken and at that time it is stationary. In normal use the only rubbing is during traverse and the only weight is that of the leg.  Run a file over it to remove any high points.  You can see that even that depression still has the surrounding area covered by the foot of the support leg. My bed is liberally coated with oil from use so lubrication is not a problem.  The shaper will work just fine as is.
  Nice little machine that takes up little space.


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## joco_nz (Nov 27, 2020)

Thanks for the responses.  I’m probably over thinking things.  So will see how things go first.


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## Nutfarmer (Nov 27, 2020)

Just stone the high spots off and don't worry about it. It's just the table suport.  Put it together and start making swarf.


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## benmychree (Nov 27, 2020)

Nutfarmer said:


> Just stone the high spots off and don't worry about it. It's just the table suport.  Put it together and start making swarf.


I agree, the less done, the better.


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## joco_nz (Nov 27, 2020)

Yup.  Stone and use is the new plan. 

Just have to get past the last of the painting.  It had a dreadful green gray paint that was a bit of a mess.  So redoing in a nice machine grey and retouching the red highlights.  Once done will post a pic here. Just to show where it ended up post this question.


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## MontanaLon (Nov 27, 2020)

I don't see pitting, I see lubricant holding areas.


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## NortonDommi (Nov 28, 2020)

joco_nz said:


> It had a dreadful green gray paint that was a bit of a mess.


Uh...Yeah....  That was the factory colour.  Your machine you are free to paint it any colour you like.  Do you have a shop colour scheme?  I use mid 1970s John Deere colours, Green for the main colour and Yellow for lettering, safety shrouds/covers etc.
  I have held onto a set of four Bramley No.2  5-Ton axle stands because they stand out among all others.  Colours get changed when machines need an overhaul.


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## joco_nz (Nov 28, 2020)

NortonDommi said:


> Uh...Yeah....  That was the factory colour.  Your machine you are free to paint it any colour you like.  Do you have a shop colour scheme?  I use mid 1970s John Deere colours, Green for the main colour and Yellow for lettering, safety shrouds/covers etc.
> I have held onto a set of four Bramley No.2  5-Ton axle stands because they stand out among all others.  Colours get changed when machines need an overhaul.


I‘m not too sure it is the factory colour.  As there is a light green paint under it which from reading I believe was referred to as “Sea Foam Green” and was the factory colour used.  It has a very Art Deco feel to it.  The colour scheme i am running with is probably more correctly used on Elliots. But I much prefer it. I have also seen pics of other Alba‘s done in this scheme.
This page at the bottom shows one done in the sea foam green colour I am seeing through the paint chips: http://www.neme-s.org/shapers/columns/shaper_column_30.html

And this thread shows the colour scheme I am generally following: https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=103896

i don“t have a shop colour scheme. i tend to leave machines in their original paint jobs or if I have to repaint things then go with a scheme i like.  Usually that machine grey which is off the shelf at Bunnings.

cheers.


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## NortonDommi (Nov 28, 2020)

That NEMES write up is a good one, I have gotten a lot of valuable information from their site. From what I can gather the Alba -1A came in a Green/Grey colour with Red drip tray and highlights on the lettering and Grey with Red. Looks good in either livery.
  Don't know if  you have a manual but here is one if you haven't.


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## joco_nz (Nov 28, 2020)

Thanks.  Yes I have gotten all sorts of useful tid bits from that site.


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## joco_nz (Jan 1, 2021)

For those interested a short test run after getting the ram reassembled.


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## joco_nz (Jan 22, 2021)

The run after final assembly as promised.   Its come out rather well.


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