# tools needed for the home machinist with a lathe and milling machine



## ARC-170 (Jan 9, 2019)

I have a lathe (Atlas/Craftsman 101.07403 12x24) and a milling machine (LMS 3990). I'm making a list of what I have and what I need. I couldn't find a comprehensive list of the basic measuring tools, gauges and hand tools I need, so I compiled one from various sources. Here is what I have on my list so far. *The red/bold items I do not have.* *My comments questions are in bold/italic: *Please add anything I'm missing. I'm not planning on getting all of this at once, but as budget and need arises. I just want to know what I'll really, actually need.
I have not included cutter bits, center drills, vises, tool holders for the lathe, drill bits, boring bars, collets, collet and taper adapters, the oiler cans, etc. But maybe I will.
I have storage space: the mill is mounted on a rolling tool chest (for now until I find a permanent home) and the lathe is on a tool bench with a cupboard and drawers.

MEASURING TOOLS

Calipers, 6" (they are inside and outside)
Micrometers (set for 0-6” & gauge block)
Edge finder
Dial indicator with base _*I have a cheap Harbor Freight one, any recommendations for a decent but not expensive one?*_
*Rockwell tester *_*Do I even need this? If so, any recommendations for a decent but not expensive one?*_
Protractor
*Granite surface plate Do I even need this? If so, any recommendations for a decent but not expensive one?*
*Deburring set Do I even need this? If so, any recommendations for a decent but not expensive set?*
*Anti-fatigue mat*
*6” scale/ruler*
Extra fine permanent marker, pencil, paper
*Machinist square (6”) **Is 6" sufficient? (No "That's what she said!" jokes, please.)*
Set of files (6”, 8”, 10”)
File brush
Calculator with trig functions
*Dial test indicator any recommendations for a decent but not expensive one?*
*Scriber any recommendations for a decent but not expensive one?*
Drill size chart
Metric/Inch chart
GAUGES:

*Radius gage set Do I even need this? If so, any recommendations for a decent but not expensive one?*
*1-2-3 block any recommendations for a decent but not expensive one?*
*Feeler gauges Do I even need this? I have a set for automotive use; is there a different set for machinists?*
*Telescoping gauges **I've been using my calipers to measure*_* inside holes, but I need to get something more accurate/precise, any recommendations for a decent but not expensive set?*_
Fish tail gauge
*Surface/height gauge/scriber used with a surface plate, any recommendations for a decent but not expensive one?*
Screw pitch/thread gauge
Set of parallels
TOOLS *are these just for the particular machine, or just to have? I have yet to use an adj wrench, any hammers (except a dead blow one) or any wrenches. I have used hex/Allen keys (specific to a machine) and punches. I've only been at this a short time, though.*

Allen/hex keys 
Adjustable wrench (10”)
Ball peen hammer
*Brass hammer what specifically is this used for (besides the obvious hitting things) and what size is best?*
Rubber mallet
*Auto center punch **are these better than a punch used with a hammer? I've used them a few times and they don't seem to make much of a mark in steel*
Punches and drifts
Dead blow hammer
Wrench set
OTHER

Safety glasses
Work apron *leather or cloth? I've been using cloth because I can wash it, but I'm thinking leather might offer more protection. Thoughts?*
*Machinery’s handbook yes, I know, I should get this!*
Acetone (to wipe off Dykem and Sharpie)
Rags


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## mmcmdl (Jan 9, 2019)

Other than the surface plate and hardness tester I could fill that list .  I can't answer if you'll ever need these tools , depends on what your plans are in the future .


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## ttabbal (Jan 9, 2019)

That's a lot. You've obviously given some thought to this list. 

What you need depends on what you want to do. For example, do you need to be accurate to tenths? If so, you might well need a calibrated surface plate. But be honest, do you NEED that accuracy right now? Probably not. As a fellow beginner, don't go too nuts with the more esoteric stuff. The HF indicator is probably more accurate than you are right now. I've seen some tests that actually show them to be surprisingly good. And accurately, repeatability measuring tenths takes some practice. 

If you get a good deal on a nice indicator from the big names, go for it. But the basics are covered for the moment. Ebay can get you some good gear for reasonable prices from big names if you keep an eye on it. 

I don't think I would bother with a real Rockwell tester, but the test files can be handy and get you close enough if you need them. I don't see a lot of use for them unless you are dealing with unknown material or plan to do a lot of hardening. 

I mostly use files for deburring, but I have a little set from Noga of the pen shaped ones that are nice for some things. 

For the scribe, make one. It's a nice simple, useful tool build for the lathe.


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## Chipper5783 (Jan 9, 2019)

Your list is fine.  Of course the list could be added to endlessly.  My suggestion is that you do*n't go out and buy anything on the list* - unless you need it.  Many people (myself included) buy tools because they might need them.  I have nearly everything on your list (except the hardness tester) and many of those tools have never been used.

Purchasing some tool that would sure be handy if I ever needed it - is a good way to get a lot of dust collectors.  When you actually need something to accomplish a task, then buy one - a decent one, perhaps even an expensive one.  You will end up with better tools (because you aren't buying the cheapest) and you'll spend less money because you are not just getting stuff that might be used sometime.


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## hman (Jan 9, 2019)

Couple thoughts ... others' opinions will probably be different ... but here goes:
Rockwell tester - probably not, unless you plan to do a bunch of heat treating
Deburring set - maybe not a "set," but a simple deburring tool is generally handy.  You might also consider a Scotchbrite wheel for a grinder.  I use these a LOT.
Anti-fatigue mat - Good idea, especially if you have cold floors or if you plan to spend long hours machining.  Harbor Freight has pretty good interlocking squares (2' x 2') of foam rubber.  Not expensive, easy to replace.
6" scale - yes
Machinist's square - 6" is a good size. I often use mine to set the vise "square" on the mini-mill table.  Good enough for most work, and a lot faster than indicating it in. Mine is an LMS 3767 vise.
Scriber - good for layouts.  Hardware store or Home Depot scribers are inexpensive and just fine, at least for me.  Could go with a carbide tipped one if you want something a bit nicer.
Radius gauges - I don't think I even have a set of these. YMMV
123 blocks - very handy for setups.  Shars, CDCO, LMS.  You will probably want to get a set of V blocks as well.
Feeler gauge - I have some, but can't recall ever using them, except for spark plugs, setting points, or (when I had a Sprite) setting valve lifter clearance.
Surface plate/surface gauge - Probably not n immediate need, but often useful, either for measuring or for layout.
Auto center punch - I've used them at times, but don't own one or see a real need for one.  Punch and hammer for me.
Brass hammer (or dead-blow hammer) - good for setting work down on parallels when closing the vise; good for adjusting position, etc. without marring the work piece.  Rubber mallet - maybe.  Don't use that one too much.
Apron - When I use one, it's cloth.  I've also modified the neck and back straps by adding "breakaway" features.  Paranoid about getting one caught in rotating machinery. 
Acetone - Sometimes necessary.  I generally use 91% isopropyl (drug store) alcohol to start with.
Rags - Yes.  And also several strategically placed rolls of paper towels.  A good friend of mine keeps rolls of TP at his tools - final wipe )in one direction only) to make sure there are no small crumbs of swarf to prevent things from being square.

I'll also add an arbor press to your list.  Small ones (½ ton) are not very expensive.  That's all I had for several years, and it did me well.

Can't think of anything else right now.


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## mmcmdl (Jan 9, 2019)

Simple answer is , do you need the tool ? Will it make your job easier , save you time , increase accuracy etc etc etc . I wouldn't buy a tool unless it had a purpose . After all , I don't need the tool itself , I need an end result and if the tool provides any of the above purposes , I buy it . Maybe the hobbiest has different opinions on this reasoning , and there is more than 1 way to skin cats .


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## Aaron_W (Jan 10, 2019)

This post might be of some help to you. I was supposed to collate it and put together a list, but have been slacking.

This list was specifically non-machining tools that are needed or at least quite useful for machining.

As usual some went a little overboard so it includes just about every tool known to mankind. 


https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/important-non-machine-tools-to-have.66198/


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## Submachine (Jan 10, 2019)

First, I am total newbie, trust the advice of those wiser.  I did things a little different to get started.  I doubt it was the best way, but it worked for me.  I purchased complete setups from old time machinists that we’re retired.  Overtime, I learned what everything was and started to learn how to use everything.  You have to be a little careful, but the rewards can be dozens of end mills, counter bores, drills, carbide, HSS, plus all the stuff on your list.  It has been enjoyable.  The tools are as much fun as what you make.

I also like the full face shields at harbor freight.  On sale they are $2.99.


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## bill70j (Jan 10, 2019)

You may want to add a quality *Combination Square* to your list.

A Starrett would be ideal, but PEC makes a very good one at half the price.

The set I have includes both a 6" and 12" rule and all three heads, but I rarely use the protractor head.


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## Boswell (Jan 10, 2019)

I agree with all the statements of only buy what you specifically need. The $ you save from not having an un-used inventory of tools can allow you to buy better quality tools when you do. It also only takes 2-3 days to buy something and have it shipped and in your hand. I have been very successful at getting Dial Indicators and Micrometers used from EBAY and Craigs list at affordable prices. My best advise is to go and make something with whatever tools you have and then go buy what you wished you had when you made it.


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## BGHansen (Jan 10, 2019)

You have a pretty complete list.  I didn't see Dykem but you have acetone for removing Dykem so assume it's on your list.

I use parallels on the mill quite a bit to get work above the vise jaws.  Whole lot of options there:  1/8" thick, 1/4" thick, adjustable, wavy, thin, .etc.  I don't have any 1/4" ones, but have the rest.  I use the 1/8" most.  Also have some Chinese angle blocks.  You could do the same thing with a scribed line set parallel to the vise jaw.

Another thing could be a wiggler.  There are lots of ways to align a prick-punched hole to the spindle.  I have laser center finders, edge finders ground to a point, Blake co-ax indicator with a center finder attachment and a wiggler.  Probably use the wiggler the most.  I also use the wiggler on the lathe to center up a part in a 4-jaw chuck.  Put the wiggler in the tail stock chuck, wiggler point in a prick punched hole.  Put a dial indicator against the shaft of the wiggler and adjust the jaws until the indicator doesn't move.

I wipe away chips with a chip brush, wooden handle cheap paint brush.  Have a 29 pc. set of screw machine length drill bits at the mills.  They're nice as they are roughly the same length as end mills and edge finders so you're not cranking down on the table to get clearance.  

Best advise is to pick up what you need once you need it.

Bruce


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## WCraig (Jan 10, 2019)

One thing not listed is a drill gauge.  An inexpensive metal drill gauge is great for checking common sizes (1/16 to 1/2 on mine).

I think a 4" machinist square is the first one I would buy.  It is the one I reach for most often.

Rather than buy everything new, you might want to troll for estate or clearing auctions or whatever they are called in your region.  Often there are box lots of small tools that go for a reasonable price.  (Pick your max ahead of time and stick to it!)  I've been known to buy a lot and sell a few things out of it to end up with my desired tools essentially for free!

Craig


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## C-Bag (Jan 10, 2019)

Boswell said:


> I agree with all the statements of only buy what you specifically need. The $ you save from not having an un-used inventory of tools can allow you to buy better quality tools when you do. It also only takes 2-3 days to buy something and have it shipped and in your hand. I have been very successful at getting Dial Indicators and Micrometers used from EBAY and Craigs list at affordable prices. My best advise is to go and make something with whatever tools you have and then go buy what you wished you had when you made it.



Everybody is different in their projects so it's impossible to say even without knowing what you are doing. In my work i bought as I needed and mostly CL and eBay used good quality for a fraction of new. Some things like height gages I've had to resurface them because they were no longer flat. But some guys say they have never needed a surface plate and I can't imagine being without my small plate and 18x24 and wish I had room and the $$ for a large one. I found a set of B&S 4 machinist squares for $55 on eBay and along with my 6" Starrett trisquare and 12" use them constantly for laying out, measuring and checking things for square. Down in LA I constantly see machinist tools on CL. If I was down there I'd never have to buy off eBay.


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## ThinWoodsman (Jan 10, 2019)

Boswell said:


> My best advise is to go and make something with whatever tools you have and then go buy what you wished you had when you made it.



Seconded.

I make heavy use of those cloth-like paper towels instead of rags. I use a full-face shield instead of safety goggles. Chip brushes by the score - one by each machine for the swarf, another with the cutting fluid, one hanging on the bench just for smearing a coat of oil on things.

Automatic center punch - nope, they're handy for one-handed center marking but not for precision.

Deburring tool, not set - costs maybe ten bucks and you get a dozen or so extra blades. Used every time you drill a hole, so it's not a waste of money. More complicated deburring can be done with a file or stone.

Files: lots of these. Flat, triangular, circular, square, single and double cut, bastard and smooth, plus some Swiss patterns thrown in (needle files). Also a bench stone, like the combination Nortion. I'm a big fan of the Gesswein sets, but I admit they are a bit of an extravagance.

Brass/rubber hammer: One or the other, just has to be non-marring. Grace makes a brass hammer with one nylon face, Garland makes rawhide ones, some weighted to serve as a deadblow.

6" scale: Mitutoyo has one for 10-15 bucks that I like a lot

Scriber: Making one is a good project, but they're so cheap that I have a few lying around. One of my favorites is a retractable diamond-tip; got some carbide-tip ones, a bent one, and so forth. Related: dental picks and plastic gun-cleaning picks. I find them useful.

Surface plate: These are like 25 bucks, there is no reason not to have one. Shars has them, Amazon has some. Someone who works in an inspection department may take issue with the cheap ones, but at the price they are cheaper than the usual "sheet of thick plate-glass" alternative, and more accurate.

Surface/radius/feeler gauges: buy as needed.

Vise: One sturdy 4-6" jaw for the work bench (to saw, file, and bang on workpieces) with replaceable jaws (important!), one milling vise for the mill. Somehow I ended up with five or six vises.

Hacksaw: One is the bare minimum; you probably want one for coarse blades and one for fine blades hanging by the bench vise (next to the ball-peen and whatever heavy hammer you use to really whale on things).

Parallels: parallels parallels parallels. Never seem to have too many. Adjustable, angle, extra-wide, you name it.

Hardness tester: only needed if you are heat-treating to spec, otherwise you can just use a file to verify the metal has been hardened

Indicators: This seems to be an ever-growing collection, between the holders and the indicators themselves. Get at least one plunger and one test indicator, just get Shars at first until you have demonstrated to your satisfaction that they are not accurate enough. The price jump from Shars to, say, Mitutoyo or Starrett is huge, so make sure you need the accuracy before you commit. You'll still use the cheap ones a lot because you don't want to drop that pricey glass-faced one.

Wrenches: One thing I did initially was go out and buy a set of those ratcheting box wrenches. This turns out to have been a mistake, because over time I went out and bought duplicates of individual wrenches (some ratcheting, some fixed depending on the application) to keep on or near each machine. Drawbar, hold-down nuts, QCTP, micrometer stop, grinder wheels ... you want the wrench RIGHT THERE, not across the room in a nice-looking wall display.

Cutting and lubrication fluids: There is an endless argument on this so I won't offer specifics. Get the correct way and spindle oil for your machines, get cutting fluid for tapping steel and for tapping or cutting aluminum, get something to squirt on as coolant, sort out a rust-preventative. Mustard squirt bottles, oil cans, grease guns for zerks: as-needed, depends on your machines.

Finally, in honor of the late and original Tubal Cain, I will add: a simple block of wood


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## Downwindtracker2 (Jan 10, 2019)

My granite plate is a 12"x18" that was on sale for $36 Canadian at BusyBee. I've used it four or five times. I bought it for layout, but I've used as a flat place to check . My test indicator that I use most often is a imported .0005 that was thrown in with some tooling. He said didn't work. It works fine for me.

Urethane dead blow hammers, since lead hammers are now a bit hard to come by, these work almost as well. Surprising how often things need a swat, and they don't leave tracks. Mine say Stanley on them.


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## Mitch Alsup (Jan 10, 2019)

What I fail to see are the::
a) rotary/indexing table
b) lathe cutting tools
c) mill collets
d) face mill
e) flycutter
f) variety of end mills
g) ball mills
h) form tools
g) thread cutting tools inside and outside
h) .....


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## ARC-170 (Jan 10, 2019)

Thanks to all! There's a lot of good info here. My purpose in asking was to find out what tools I would need that are specific to a lathe and mill, and/or in addition to the general tools in a well-equipped shop. It would be nice to have duplicates right next to the machine on some of these. for example, the drill gauge is an inexpensive item that can be in the tool box, by the mill and by the lathe.

Based on the above, I would add the following to my list:

MEASURING
20. machinists's combination square
21. wiggler

GAUGES
9. drill gauge. I have one of these, but it seems like something a well-equipped shop would already have, so I didn't list it, but it's cheap enough that having one by each machine is nice.

TOOLS
10. Anything that is specific to that particular machine

OTHER
6. Swarf brushes
7. Lube brushes
8. Block of wood to put under the lathe chuck when changing it so it doesn't jack up the ways if it gets dropped.

I would say that they following items are optional/use if needed:
Radius gauge set
Feeler gauges

I would say this item is not really needed by an amateur like myself:
Rockwell hardness tester

The other items mentioned, for example wrenches, screwdrivers, etc. , are all tools I would say most shops already have. It's good to know they are needed, but they aren't specific to a lathe and a mill. My list, plus the additions, for the most part are not needed unless you have precision machine tools like a lathe and mill.


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## ARC-170 (Jan 10, 2019)

Mitch Alsup said:


> What I fail to see are the::
> a) rotary/indexing table
> b) lathe cutting tools
> c) mill collets
> ...



I didn't include any tooling; I figured that was obvious that the user would have some or most of these items.


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## ARC-170 (Jan 10, 2019)

Aaron_W said:


> This post might be of some help to you. I was supposed to collate it and put together a list, but have been slacking.
> 
> This list was specifically non-machining tools that are needed or at least quite useful for machining.
> 
> ...



Thanks, this was helpful. I couldn't find anything when I did a search, but I knew that this topic had to be addressed somewhere. I think your link and my post and the responses gives a pretty good idea of what is needed. I may collate all of it into a master list so I can see what I need/want. If/when I do, I'll add it to this so others can see it.


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## ARC-170 (Jan 10, 2019)

C-Bag said:


> Everybody is different in their projects so it's impossible to say even without knowing what you are doing. In my work i bought as I needed and mostly CL and eBay used good quality for a fraction of new. Some things like height gages I've had to resurface them because they were no longer flat. But some guys say they have never needed a surface plate and I can't imagine being without my small plate and 18x24 and wish I had room and the $$ for a large one. I found a set of B&S 4 machinist squares for $55 on eBay and along with my 6" Starrett trisquare and 12" use them constantly for laying out, measuring and checking things for square. Down in LA I constantly see machinist tools on CL. If I was down there I'd never have to buy off eBay.



The shipping on surface plates can be $100! And the plate costs half that. I live close enough to LMS to go pick up a small one. I have a Starrett tri-square and I really like it; it's smooth to slide and feels well-made.
I hesitate to buy off CL, but at least I can go look at the tools. I was told that the economy determines how much tools are for sale. I thought about pawn shops, but they seem a bit over-priced.


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## Winegrower (Jan 10, 2019)

This is crazy.   You need all that stuff, and then start another list.


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## P. Waller (Jan 10, 2019)

As mentioned many times above.
Buy ONLY the tools needed for the work that you do, no more and no less.

I have worked full time as a general machinist for 30 years in job shops, mostly small part runs <2000. But many 1 to 50 part jobs with a vast assortment of features and sizes.

I have collected over the years the following tools as the need warranted, never because I MAY NEED IT.

Rigid rules: 6,12, 18, 24, and 36" lengths, anything over this the shop owns or should own. I rarely use the rules above 18"
Several squares
1"-6" outside micrometers,  Used weekly
.4- 6" dial bore gauges, anything over 6" and under .4"  the shop owns or should own. I do a good deal of precision bore work. All used weekly
6, 8, 12, 24" calipers, anything over this the shop owns or should own, all but the 24" are used weekly
1" and 2" travel drop indicators with .001" divisions, used everyday
1" drop indicator with .0001" divisions, used rarely
3" dial drop indicator with .001" divisions, this is easy to read when it is 5 feet away on a large part, not used very often
Lever indicator with .0005" divisions, used often
A Noga magnetic base indicator holder that is 30" tall because I sometimes turn 35" diameter parts, you will almost certainly never need this
Run of the mill magnetic indicator bases that are 12" tall, used everyday
Depth micrometer, used often
Internal groove width micrometer because I produce a good number internal retaining ring grooves, you will not likely need one of these
Telescoping gauges, used often
Thread wires, use these  often
Thread pitch gauges, I have never owned radius gauges however, I rarely use the thread gauges
A vernier scale protractor, you will likely never need such a tool, someone gave it to me
An 8" long redbox precision spirit level that I bought new for 1 job, it has not been used for 20+ years
V Blocks of various sizes, which I rarely use

Do not buy what you do not need


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## Dabbler (Jan 10, 2019)

I think it is a great idea to have a list so you can buy what you will need... soon... when things are on sale, and maybe spend a tiny bit more and buy 'better' quality'  Mitutoyo always has a winter sale that puts them closer (er) to the mid-priced competitors...

That being said, and to echo everyone else, all this is dependent on the work you choose to do - if you tire of the hobby, you'll be glad of all the stuff you 'didn't' buy, having to sell it a 1/3 the purchase price.

*Some feedback on your list.*
Rockwell tester? nah.  even professional shops sometimes don't have one.
Granite surface plate?  yes, if you will be doing work under a thou or 2...  Busy Bee tools and Lee Valley sell affordable ones 
     that work just fine for a home shop.  I'm sure that you can find a discount SP cheaply in your jurisdiction
Deburring: I have a NOGA deburring set and an offshore one.  Get the Offshore one for 1/5 the price until you really need a better one
Anti-fatigue mat: personal preference.
6" ruler:  you can 'live' with a really cheap one - but - if you really get into it, you'll need one that reads in tenths/100ths, and that will $$
Dial test indicator: there is no such thing as a 'cheap' one - what I meas is don't waste your money.  36 years ago I bought a
      .0005 indicator that I've used a LOT, and it is still going.  Last year I bought a Mit .0001 test indicator for a project that needed it.
      - you HAVE to believe your measuring instruments.  They are the last word you are doing the right thing.  
Scriber:  I use an offshore carbide scriber, and find it works fine, and cost like 3 bucks...

Radius Gauge set: I fillet and round off corners bu hand work a lot.  I like to file to a dimension, so I use one.
1-2-3 block:  I have a couple of offshore sets, and they have worked for me for 30+ years. Your results may vary.
Feeler gauges:  I have a set... somewhere...  I dont think I've used them.
Height gauge:  I have a cheap offshore one.  Measured against a 3000$ B&S one. they measure within .001 of each other.
     I have to remember to take the battery out each time I'm done with it. easy.
Brass hammer:  Mine is a very small one, about 5 or 6 ounces.  If you need to really hit something use a hunk of brass and a big hammer.
Auto center punch.  Never owned one.
*
Now for unsolicited advice:*

--- Get a good 0-1 Micrometer.  A name brand that will last your lifetime.  Bigger ones will be used a lot less frequently.
--- Get a good vernier caliper.  I use two Igaging ones, (horror:  not Mitutoyo?) which have served me well. 

 Don't buy anything in the above list until there is something you cannot do without it.  
When you can anticipate the need, look ahead at sales, and buy a little better than you think you should.  
Name brands have better longevity and resale value.


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## C-Bag (Jan 10, 2019)

Personally I don't get the cringe at getting used. I see some incredible collections of tools in the LA basin. I doubt very many places have this many guys retiring with nice collections of quality tools that are often well cared for. And when I go I take my 1" and 2" gages with me to check stuff. 

Pawn shops are worthless IMHO. Over priced. Dealing with relatives of the diseased is usually stupid as they have no clue and are usually wanting new prices for stuff. Like I said everybody's work is different. Like today I was using my import tapping hand machine I got from LMS. It was $130? and worth every penny as I've tapped over 100+ holes since I bought that. Not broken a single tap(knock on wood) since I got it. i personally love my prick punch too and find it way more accurate than my hammer and punch, which i usually use as my second operation if I need a pronounced punch mark. To each his own.


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## Aaron_W (Jan 10, 2019)

ARC-170 said:


> Thanks, this was helpful. I couldn't find anything when I did a search, but I knew that this topic had to be addressed somewhere. I think your link and my post and the responses gives a pretty good idea of what is needed. I may collate all of it into a master list so I can see what I need/want. If/when I do, I'll add it to this so others can see it.




Part of my slacking is trying to trim it down to something a bit less overwhelming. On the other hand these tools don't live in a vacuum, bandsaws, grinders, drill presses etc are legitimate suggestions that will make your life easier but probably too much for a starting list.

Perhaps laid out providing some order of importance. Rock bottom really need from the beginning escalating to nice to have tools, and finally the specialty and luxury tools which can definitely wait until you actually have a need for them. 

My post came out of constantly bumping up against tools I didn't expect to need. Luckily I already had a good set of basic tools, wrenches, drivers etc so some I had on hand but many of the auxiliary tools, bench grinder and bandsaw in particular were pretty close to essential and I hadn't factored in their need. 

Sure you don't "need" a bandsaw, but the first time I cut a 1 1/2" steel bar with a hack saw, the band saw went from nice to have, to go get one as soon as the next HF 25% off coupon comes out.


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## Downwindtracker2 (Jan 10, 2019)

I'm not a machinist, just a hobbyist who works with metal.  Radius gauges are something that are pooh poohed. I've found them necessary a couple of times and handy a few more times. Mine are just a cheap set, but I'm sure happy that I had them. At the price I paid, it was a why not.

I bought some telescoping gauges from Princess Auto, at a sale price. Harbor Freight likely sells the same sort of ones. Man, they were gritty, after oiling and working them, they were useable. . But when I needed them, I had them. Later, I did get a good Japanese set in a tool purchase. I also got some Starretts as well in that purchase.


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## T Bredehoft (Jan 10, 2019)

I find that i have about 25 Pill bottles with small drill bits, I buy them by the 1/2 dozen, (I buy the drills, the pill  bottle are free with pills,) all under .100 in diameter, but thats because of the  work I do. 
I have at each tooling station, Lathe, Mill, drill press, a couple Starett drill chart cards, and one (or more) Harbor Freight $9.99 (with coupon) Pittsburgh Digital 6" calipers. (also have batteries on hand for them buy the dirt cheap online). Also a wooden block with the 9 smallest size Allen wrenches, one at each machine, and a couple of spare blocks. Also small drill tubes with 4-40 and 5-40 body drill, tap drill and taps.


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## Duke (Jan 11, 2019)

Hi Arc,

Definitely a comprehensive list.

Here's a couple of notes:

Definitely get a granite surface plate. I use an offcut granite square that I got for free from a client. It is obviously not AS flat as the expensive one but it is good enough for me.



Pen and paper:    Sharpie markers. In stead of paper, you can use a piece of glass.

The sharpies work well on glass and won't wipe off like whiteboard markers.  When you do want to clean the glass - give it a squirt with some brake or parts cleaner. The one I use evaporates quickly without leaving any residue at all and cleans the glass perfectly. Probably similar to acetone.

Feeler guages are pretty handy - I also use an automotive set that I took apart.

Brass hammer - I made a small one years ago and I use it a LOT.


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## mmcmdl (Jan 11, 2019)

After reading this and the other " linked thread  " , it's NO WONDER my garage , 2 basements , and shop look as they do .  All I intended to do was to fix a tractor back in "79 , and now look ! 

I did not see one very important ( indispensable ) tool needed for high precision work . A *BFH* . Works well with light assembly work and also as your throwing object when things go haywire .


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## C-Bag (Jan 11, 2019)

Downwindtracker2 said:


> I'm not a machinist, just a hobbyist who works with metal.  Radius gauges are something that are pooh poohed. I've found them necessary a couple of times and handy a few more times. Mine are just a cheap set, but I'm sure happy that I had. them. At the price I paid, it was a why not.



I'm ready to make dies for my bead roller and Planishing hammer and radius gages are essential. There would be no way to do it accurately otherwise. I guess it's a good thing they are pooh poohed because I was able to pick up a basically new Starrett set off eBay for less than a new import set!


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## Diecutter (Jan 11, 2019)

I would not be without my rawhide hammer. Useful for wailing on just about any precision surface with less of a chance of damage than even a brass hammer.


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## hman (Jan 11, 2019)

Just had a somewhat related thought ...
I've not worked as a machinist, so I may be somewhat off base.  I'll be more than happy to hear from any of you "real" guys.

Anyway, my understanding is that professional machinists are expected to have their own measurement and setup tools.  Unusual  tools, spare cutters, drill bits, super-precision measuring tools, etc. are there in the tool room.  Well, as home machinists, we don't have the luxury of a tool room.  So we have to equip ourselves with whatever seldom-used tools we need or might anticipate needing.  Guess that's just the way things go.  

I also recall the "sticker shock" when, shortly after retiring from HP, I had to purchase something other than the common stuff you can get at Home Depot.  I was so used to just writing up a requisition and letting the purchasing department take it from there.  It was all "funny money" ... until I had to pay it myself!


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## C-Bag (Jan 11, 2019)

hman said:


> Just had a somewhat related thought ...
> I've not worked as a machinist, so I may be somewhat off base.  I'll be more than happy to hear from any of you "real" guys.
> 
> Anyway, my understanding is that professional machinists are expected to have their own measurement and setup tools.  Unusual  tools, spare cutters, drill bits, super-precision measuring tools, etc. are there in the tool room.  Well, as home machinists, we don't have the luxury of a tool room.  So we have to equip ourselves with whatever seldom-used tools we need or might anticipate needing.  Guess that's just the way things go.
> ...



THIS! There is a ton of peripherals that go into a shop. 30yrs before I needed a mill and lathe I needed a compressor, horizontal bandsaw and welder. Started out stick then a small Lincoln 175mig and small Hypertherm 35 plasma. So there is a lot involved with metal working and most of that would be part of the shops I worked in and necessary for doing projects in my shop. I've learned I don't need large expensive industrial units and not buying from industrial suppliers I can get good usable equipment for a fraction of what the shops paid for them.


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## P. Waller (Jan 11, 2019)

C-Bag said:


> I'm ready to make dies for my bead roller and Planishing hammer and radius gages are essential. There would be no way to do it accurately otherwise. I guess it's a good thing they are pooh poohed because I was able to pick up a basically new Starrett set off eBay for less than a new import set!


If producing parts or assemblies where the radii are the major feature of the function then radius gauges are essential, if some one simply likes radiused corners for aesthetic reasons they are not required, make the part as visually appealing as you like.

The only other consideration is if making parts for a customer that will actually measure them and reject the ones that are nonconforming, this will not likely happen outside of the aerospace, automotive and medical implant industries. If you are producing parts for consumer gardening equipment and the drawing specifies a .010" radius and you make it .015" no one will likely ever actually measure it.


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## Dabbler (Jan 11, 2019)

I agree in principle with you Mr Waller, but I like the reassurance of using my radii gauges when I'm finishing.  I recognize it is unlikely to be anyone else's preferred way, but it is mine...  I'm not really going for accuracy, just consistency.


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## P. Waller (Jan 11, 2019)

This I understand, if you are making a part where the radii is unimportant to its function but controlled radii adds to its appearance then have at it, this is not making parts but making art (-:


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## P. Waller (Jan 12, 2019)

hman said:


> Just had a somewhat related thought ...
> I've not worked as a machinist, so I may be somewhat off base.  I'll be more than happy to hear from any of you "real" guys.
> 
> Anyway, my understanding is that professional machinists are expected to have their own measurement and setup tools.  Unusual  tools, spare cutters, drill bits, super-precision measuring tools, etc. are there in the tool room.  Well, as home machinists, we don't have the luxury of a tool room.  So we have to equip ourselves with whatever seldom-used tools we need or might anticipate needing.  Guess that's just the way things go.
> ...


Most small shops <25 employees would not likely require a prospective employee to own large measuring tools or hundreds of smaller tools that have a limited size range such as bore micrometers as seen here http://www.starrett.com/metrology/m...isplayMode=grid&itemsPerPage=24&sortBy=wp/asc

It would require 10 individual tools to cover the range between .100" and .500", roughly $10,000 worth for a .400" range of measurement.
On the other hand many large companies will not allow out of process tools to be used at all, you can not use your own tool unless it has been documented, numbered, calibrated, added to the tool system, blessed by a high ranking official of the Church, is a non carcinogen and meets all safety and accuracy standards of the ISPWS (International Society of People that Write Standards)


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## jdedmon91 (Jan 12, 2019)

My two cents worth, on comfort items like a mat, shop shoes, that’s a place not to scrimp. The others you need to decide the accuracy of the work your producing. General machine work or precision tool making. Example I just made a batch of aluminum coasters for Christmas presents, they didn’t need to be as precise as the solid cut off tool block I just finished. You can do great work with less expensive tooling, just like most things the better the tooling the easier it is to use. Personally 90% of my indicators are low budget type but they do a good job, on the other hand my go to mics and calipers are high quality but I did find them used.

I do have a Machinery’s Handbook, but the Black book is more practical for my everyday use. In fact I use two wall charts most often. One is an old drill and tap chart that covers % of thread from 70 to 50. Then the decimal equivalent chart. If you need trig the black book has the common triangle formulas and a $1 calculator can do that.

As I said it depends on where you want to go with the precision.

The one piece tool block
	

	
	
		
		

		
			







	

		
			
		

		
	
the coasters 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## mickri (Jan 12, 2019)

I will admit that I didn't read every post in this thread.  So if I am repeating something that has already been said I apologize.

You can go nuts buying stuff that you may never need or use.  Start with what you have.  Let your projects dictate what to buy when you need it.  If you have a project where you absolutely need some gizmo because what you have won't do, then buy that gizmo.  You will be money ahead in the long run and by buying stuff as you need it you can afford better quality.


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## Downwindtracker2 (Jan 12, 2019)

For the price of a couple of cups of Starbucks coffee it's a Why Not.


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## bobl (Jan 15, 2019)

Don’t rush get as you go don’t forget you can also make some with your machinery like small angle plates soft parallel etc 


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## P. Waller (Jan 16, 2019)

A material straightener, first job today was 7 1/2" diameter saw cut rounds 1/2" thick, they finish at .380 +-.010" thick. 304 SS material.

They came off of the saw like Pringles™


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## Aaron_W (Jan 16, 2019)

bobl said:


> Don’t rush get as you go don’t forget you can also make some with your machinery like small angle plates soft parallel etc
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk




It is rather amazing what one can make when they own a lathe and mill. More a matter of time and trouble to make vs buy even for a novice like me.


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## bobl (Jan 16, 2019)

It’s something to achieve I’m a retired tool room machinist and still make tools and use them 


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## markba633csi (Jan 16, 2019)

No matter how many or how few tools you have, give some consideration for where to keep them so you can find them easily.  Having a tool but not knowing where it is is the same as not having it at all.  
mark


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## bobl (Jan 19, 2019)

markba633csi said:


> No matter how many or how few tools you have, give some consideration for where to keep them so you can find them easily. Having a tool but not knowing where it is is the same as not having it at all.
> mark



As I’m always looking and loosing I got over the problem by duplicating items like allenkeys 


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## mmcmdl (Jan 19, 2019)

P. Waller said:


> A material straightener, first job today was 7 1/2" diameter saw cut rounds 1/2" thick, they finish at .380 +-.010" thick. 304 SS material.
> 
> They came off of the saw like Pringles™





Firstgear said:


> What does everyone store their tooling in when not being used?




Best coffee  in town . I had a WaWa across the street from me for years until they moved it . Gotta love that 304SS . Tougher than a $2 steak .


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