# Taper Pin Removal



## Kroll (Dec 8, 2013)

Guys as simple as it sounds I cannot remove this taper pin from the handle thats for putting tension on the belt.I know I'm on the small end of the pin and using a punch close to the size of the pin and it will not move a fraction.After taking the pics I went back out took a file went over both ends just to double check myself.I went to a little bigger hammer and its just not moving,hit several times on the small side then rotate the handle and check the other side,I can't even feel a shoulder rubbing my finger across the pin.Any tricks,maybe alittle heat????Thanks kroll
Punch with the point is there just for pics.


----------



## Terrywerm (Dec 8, 2013)

First off, try the biggest hammer you have, and don't go easy with it. The bigger the blow, the better the chance of it coming loose. If you were using the ball pein hammer that appears in the one photo, it is not nearly big enough. Try a two pound machinist hammer at minimum, a four pounder would be better. You will probably want to hold the punch with a punch holder or with a good plier if you don't have a punch holder. This may sound silly, but try to hit right through the punch with your hammer. Strange as it may seem, people often let up on swinging force when they focus on the top of the punch as a target, which does not give the desired results.

You can apply heat, but care should be given. You will want to use a large rosebud so that you apply the heat quickly to the crank, but avoid applying it to the pin, else it will expand right along with the crank and will remain tight. You do not need to heat the crank to bright red heat, either. If you start to see a dull red you have it plenty hot enough for expanding it. You don't want to get the pin red hot either!

ADDED ON EDIT:  This is one of those few cases where "If all else fails, get a bigger hammer!" is a correct answer. Also make sure that you have the crank itself sitting on something very solid, such as an anvil or piece of steel plate. Naturally it will need to have a hole in it for the pin to enter as it leaves the crank assembly. A block of soft wood will not be solid enough, and a chunk of oak would be marginal. It needs to be absolutely SOLID.


----------



## Kroll (Dec 8, 2013)

Terry thanks for the get a bigger hammer tip,I do understand cause on other taper pins I use a small hammer and nothing happen then went with a bigger hammer on the first swing the pin came loose.The hammer in the pic was not the one I use,but it was not that much bigger.Tomorrow,bigger hammer with part on my vises anvil.Thanks Terry---kroll


----------



## 12bolts (Dec 8, 2013)

+1 on the bigger hammer and make sure its supported from the opposite side.
A steel bar with a dimple drilled in the end to take the big end of the taper pin will do. As soon as the pin starts to move it will become loose so you dont need a great hollow bar with a thru hole.
Let it soak overnight in penetrating oil. If you still need heat dont go overboard. You shouldnt need to get up to even dull red. Biggest heating tip you have. Heat as rapidly as possible on the 2 sides away from the pin. You are looking to achieve rapid expansion of the outer area before the heat gets into the pin and it starts to expand also.

Cheers Phil


----------



## sniggler (Dec 8, 2013)

Play heat on the end of the shaft with a propane torch for a few minutes and try driving it out  from the small end. Try shocking it on the big end of the pin with a punch almost the size of the big end. If you determine it is a lost cause drill down through the center of the pin and then drive it out.

Bob


----------



## Jimw (Dec 8, 2013)

I have actually found that less force works better for me on taper pins. When I try to drive out the pins with a heavy blow I have more trouble. I think it mushrooms the end somewhat. Now I do 3 to five medium to light taps with a 12 oz and they pop out.


----------



## Dave Smith (Dec 8, 2013)

Kroll---use a large punch with a short taper with end just a tad bit smaller than your pin-use a large hammer with a good quick solid hit----do not use a pin punch untill the pin is loose---Dave


----------



## woodtickgreg (Dec 9, 2013)

I agree with what dave says, a short taper on the punch keeps it from flexing under the blows. I made a couple of short punches when I did the restore on my south bend 10L.


----------



## Kroll (Dec 9, 2013)

*SUCCESS*hew: Guys its amazing how couple suggestions makes a world of difference.Giving thanks to all,out it pop.What I did is I purchase short taper punch set,then I rested the handle on the vise to where the pin is would be clear then gave it afew over the edge blows with my biggest hammer.Guys it pop out like nothing was ever wrong,I did have my torch near by just in case.Again thanks so much

Now my next problem is this knob which it will not budge,up by the ball I use my vise grips(american made) and tried to unscrew the knob but not even a 64th movement.Maybe it has a taper pin,I look in my poor small print manual and in the cabinet section it shows a taper pin(I think) Guys I have look and I just don't see a pin.Could someone check their manual and see if there is one,I don't see any loctite

Guys thanks again---kroll


----------



## stevecmo (Dec 9, 2013)

Congrats on getting the pin out!

I don't have a manual, but with that handle having a hex section, I have to believe it screws on.


----------



## Kroll (Dec 9, 2013)

Its screw on,can't tell it but I put a small pipe wrench on it it won't budge.I may have to apply alittle heat just to see----kroll


----------



## 12bolts (Dec 10, 2013)

Are you sure the "hex part" is not a separate lock nut? Try holding the knurled section and see if the "nut" will loosen.

Cheers Phil


----------



## Kroll (Dec 10, 2013)

Thanks guys for responding,Phil I felt the same way as you.I put a wrench on the nut and the pipe wrench on the knob figuring the nut was there as a jam nut.Neigher would give,looking in my book "How to Rebuild a SB" the nut is pin but its just a big nut and not a knob.This book is what I think is just in general and may not apply to all SB's not showing changes over time.Guys I don't have tree trunks for arms but I put what I have into it.For something that is only hand tight(knob not being made for a wrench) it won't move and its not rusty.This afternoon I will give the wrench w/backup wench another try.---kroll


----------



## Kroll (Dec 10, 2013)

Tomorrow I'm going to by me a lotto,cause I am on a roll.Guys hidden in the knob that has been krurled was a taper pin.I took a file and rub the knob where I thought I could see it,there it was the outline of the pin.I went the wrong way first try but it moved about 1/4" so I check the other side then I could see it was smaller.Bump it pretty hard and it came flying out,so I'm feeling lucky---kroll


----------



## Kroll (Dec 10, 2013)

Sorry for my spelling its b u y -----kroll


----------



## Terrywerm (Dec 10, 2013)

Congrats on a job well done, Kroll. Have fun!

BTW, you're going to cut us in for bit of that winning lotto ticket, right?    :whistle:


----------



## Kroll (Dec 10, 2013)

Now thats funny Terry:roflmao:


----------



## joebiplane (Nov 21, 2015)

Kroll said:


> Sorry for my spelling its b u y -----kroll


I think when you read the winning lottery numbers you said BY...By to your money....You were right all along !


----------



## Ulma Doctor (Nov 21, 2015)

I'm a believer in big hammer, big taper punch and swing from behind your ear- you are not there to make friends.

some taper pins can be very difficult to extract, the more you hit them for removal, the more they expand- in the wrong way 

if anyone should happen to mess up and expand the small end by striking it too many times because it doesn't move,
simply grind the exposed portion of the pin down to the surface (or slightly below if permissive) and try it again.
sometimes you can use an appropriate sized drill bit to slightly relieve the center of the pin and try again as well.
this time hit it like you mean it, and it will come out more than half the time 

i have removed and drilled out countless broken/seized pins, it never gets any easier-
i have developed ways to make it happen-
force is the usually the prescription.


----------

