# Question about Iron Pipe



## Boswell (Aug 2, 2021)

I need to make a stair rail for the stairs to the loft of my shop. I want to use 1-1/4" Schedule 40 (1.66" OD) iron pipe that I can get at the local Home Depot type store and some basic fittings. But I will need to have an angle change at a platform. As I have a Hobart Handler 210 MV MIG Welder I was thinking I could just cut two pieces of pipe and the appropriate angle and weld them together. I am very much a newbie to welding but have made a few projects that have not fallen apart. 

My questions are
1. Is this as simple as I think it will be?
2. Is the "iron" Pipe at the local box store (Home depot) that is sold mostly for plumbing really iron or is it steal or something else? Does this even mater in this application?
3. Any best practices or suggestions?

Thanks


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## MrWhoopee (Aug 2, 2021)

1. Yes
2. "Iron" pipe is cheap steel, easily welded
3.  Have a good time!


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## Ulma Doctor (Aug 2, 2021)

+1 on what Mr. Whoopee says
Black iron is mild steel and can easily be welded or brazed 

clean the intended joints with a wire wheel before welding and go to it

An angle grinder easily cuts the pipe too


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## Bi11Hudson (Aug 2, 2021)

MrWhoopee said:


> 1. Yes
> 2. "Iron" pipe is cheap steel, easily welded
> 3.  Have a good time!





Ulma Doctor said:


> +1 on what Mr. Whoopee says
> Black iron is mild steel and can easily be welded or brazed
> 
> clean the intended joints with a wire wheel before welding and go to it
> ...


"Black Iron" is just painted steel. It seems that "galvanizing" reacts with natural gas and is prohibited there. The usual water pipe* is *galvanized. They both are steel, same as conduit and "snap together" shop railing. If you are an "inexperienced" welder, the galvanizing might cause a little trouble getting a good weld and the smoke should be avoided. Schedule 40 conduit is just water pipe that has been reamed to eliminate any drips and cut to 10 ft rather than 21 ft. Avoiding the "thin wall" stuff is a good idea too. Likely TMI, my back porch handrails are black pipe. When the welds look good, it is suitable for the front porch. Have at it. . .

.


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## RJSakowski (Aug 2, 2021)

Cut both pieces of pipe at the same angle for a good fit.  As an example, if you wanted a 50º change in direction, you would bevel each end at 25º.  After you cut the angles, then bevel the cut ends to create a vee for the assembled pipe.  This will allow you to grind fown the weld to have a smooth transition around the bend without weakening the joint.  I like to leave a thin unbeveled section on the edge for registration for welding setup.

When welding pipe, It likes to blow a hole through if you're not careful.  After you get the pieces tacked, You can fill the pipe with sand to prevent that.


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## pontiac428 (Aug 2, 2021)

Gas pipe is thick and strong.  The only thing that differentiates it from ERW structural tubing are the dimensions specified in code.  Sch 40 is substantial material with heavy walls.  It welds nicely.


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## Bi11Hudson (Aug 2, 2021)

An afterthought, if you know an electrician, the bend raduis for 1-1/4 rigid is just over 10 inches. At the top, it makes a nice curve to hang on to.

.


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## Flyinfool (Aug 2, 2021)

If you want nice transitions they make weld fittings for elbows and end caps that will make a nice railing.








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## General Zod (Aug 2, 2021)

Boswell said:


> I need to make a stair rail for the stairs to the loft of my shop. I want to use 1-1/4" Schedule 40 (1.66" OD) iron pipe that I can get at the local Home Depot type store and some basic fittings. But I will need to have an angle change at a platform. As I have a Hobart Handler 210 MV MIG Welder I was thinking I could just cut two pieces of pipe and the appropriate angle and weld them together. I am very much a newbie to welding but have made a few projects that have not fallen apart.
> 
> My questions are
> 1. Is this as simple as I think it will be?
> ...



With the way pricing is with steel, you're likely paying substantially more at a big-box store than at a steel supply place, based on my experience.   A 6-foot'er of 1¼" Sch40 at my Home Depot is ~$60 w/tax.  A 21-foot'er at a local steel supply warehouse is $78 w/tax.  The shorter big-box piece is ~ _2.7x more expensive per-foot_.  Just something to consider.

Also, if you don't absolutely need Sch40, some places might be able to get you Sch10.  My steel warehouse ordered me some 1¼" Sch10 for around $70 for a 21-foot'er from Triple-S Steel in San Antonio;  0.109" wall so it still has some heft to it, as I just didn't need absolutely need 0.140" wall thickness of Sch40.


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## Boswell (Aug 2, 2021)

Thanks everyone.  General Zod, I was thinking to check with my local metal supply to see what there price would be. I really appreciate everyone's quick response. Also, Thanks for pointing me to weldable fittings from MC.  I don't know any electricians with a bender for 1-1/4 but I was considering making a simple die for my Hydraulic press instead of welding. We will see what works out.  Again thanks everyone for the quick and thoughtful responses.


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## MrWhoopee (Aug 2, 2021)

Bi11Hudson said:


> It seems that "galvanizing" reacts with natural gas and is prohibited there.
> 
> .


Not so much that it reacts, but that, in the past, galvanizing had a tendency to flake off, blocking orifii. It is apparently now allowed, but the precedent remains. Black pipe is also (or at least should be) cheaper, and in a situation where both water and gas exist, makes it easy to tell which is which.


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## GL (Aug 2, 2021)

If you go to a steel vendor, you might ask for pipe size tubing.  Better quality, maybe cheaper. We switched to it for grab handles/ railings a long time ago for cost reasons.


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## Shootymacshootface (Aug 3, 2021)

You are on the right track. Cutting angles on pipe and welding them together is exactly how many contractors build railings on site to fit any staircase. The secret to a professional looking job is to use a flap disk on an angle grinder.


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## BWSmith (Aug 3, 2021)

WRT checking pricing;

Pipe is what plumbing suppliers "do". They'll usually have a porta band somewhere around the loading area. Not for custom lengths,just for cutting the 21' down to pickup lengths. Good luck with your project.


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## Jackle1312 (Aug 3, 2021)

Try Wagner or search for metal rail fittings if you need a radius on your bends instead of a sharp corner. Your local fab shop may have weld fittings on hand also if they do railings.


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## SLK001 (Aug 3, 2021)

If your pipe is galvanized, grind the coating off down to bare metal (a flap disk does an excellent job at this) to about ½" from your joint.  Definitely DO NOT weld on the galvanized area.


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## Boswell (Aug 3, 2021)

GL said:


> If you go to a steel vendor, you might ask for pipe size tubing. Better quality, maybe cheaper. We switched to it for grab handles/ railings a long time ago for cost reasons.


Thanks GL, I'll be sure to ask about Pipe size tubing.



Shootymacshootface said:


> The secret to a professional looking job is to use a flap disk on an angle grinder.


I use Flap disk a lot for welding prep and cleanup.



BWSmith said:


> cutting the 21' down to pickup lengths


I have a trailer that I use for picking up long lengths so even getting full length tubing is not a problem



Jackle1312 said:


> Try Wagner or search for metal rail fittings


I have looked at the set-screw railing fittings on McMaster-Carr and plan to use some of them in other places but for the angle on the stair railing I think that a weld of a bend will be nicer, probably a weld.



SLK001 said:


> Definitely DO NOT weld on the galvanized area.


Yep.  Can't have too many safety reminders .  I don't see using ANY galvanized pipe/tubing.

I am probably a week or two away from doing the railing but will share what I accomplish, and thanks again everyone.


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## Bi11Hudson (Aug 3, 2021)

Waayyy back at the pipe shop, forty odd years ago, the smallest conduit we used was 3/4 rigid. In the circumstances at that location, although not fiscally viable, it made sense. When hot metal was spilled on the floor, the conduit and glass braid wiring often survived.

The significant part is that we used prefab 90's instead of bending pipe. Some unusual conduit routing, but the chief electrician's way of doing things. The cost of the prefab 90's compared to bending was much higher, but had its' reasoning. Especially as the size went up. 1-1/4 was not a common size at the pipe shop, but conduit fittings were available if we needed them.

I don't even know if the fittings are still available and certainly would be expensive, but the idea applies where needed.

.


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## Jackle1312 (Aug 3, 2021)

If you can't find what you need i can see what the steel shop i use has and ship them to you. If you know the angle i can bend one up for you


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## Bi11Hudson (Aug 3, 2021)

MrWhoopee said:


> Not so much that it reacts, but that, in the past, galvanizing had a tendency to flake off, blocking orifii. It is apparently now allowed, but the precedent remains. Black pipe is also (or at least should be) cheaper, and in a situation where both water and gas exist, makes it easy to tell which is which.


Not being a gas fitter, the reason was just "word of mouth" because scraps of 3/4 rigid conduit were sometimes used on gas lines by the "unqualified" maintenance people. They were always careful not to use it where it would show. We used "coke gas" when we could with natural piped in as a back-up. I've never been in control of those operations but worked alongside with the electrical portion. It is a bit late in my career for such things, but I believe in *never stop learning*. Thank you, Sir. Thank you, again.

.


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## Boswell (Aug 3, 2021)

Jackle1312 said:


> If you can't find what you need i can see what the steel shop i use has and ship them to you. If you know the angle i can bend one up for you


I appreciate the offer. I have a choice of a couple of metal suppliers here in the Austin area so I am optimistic that I can find what I need is raw material. As for Bending, At this point, I am leaning to cut and weld. If for no other reason, because I have a welder that I want to get more time with .


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