# Bench Mill choices



## Oldseabee (Nov 15, 2022)

As several of you have been very helpful and patient with my questions I have now come to some realization that you really do get what you pay for quality wise.
I have been looking at the PM 25 mill and the Weiss 25 mill. I thought both were the same, not so. The PM25 has a wider base so more stable, head support column attachment is different to. Then I have been watching a U tube video on the Weiss 25. the man that made the video seems to be a very talented builder-machinist. so if you go to YouTube and type in Weiss 25 mill and scroll through them you get an eye opening.  His video is a year old. I think 6 sets on his work. Custom table and mill modification. But the point I picked up on is that His brand new mill was way out of wack, forget scrapping the ways. He used a tool post grinder  as a surface grinder to take of up to .05 in some areas . Has anyone else had fit issues like this with the Weiss 25 or was his built late on a Friday? Makes me wonder. If I'm going to plunk down $2,500 for a new machine I would hope that it had been through some kind of QC inspection in house before being crated up to ship. Or, am I expecting too much? From all the reading I have been doing his machine issues seem off base as I have not seen anything else like this. I know PM25 parts were out of stock at times but they get them and take care of their customers.


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## Eddyde (Nov 16, 2022)

I don't own either of those mills, though after 8 years here on HM, I have heard many good things about the PM brand and its owner Matt. If I were to buy new, I'd probably go with PM. That being said, it appears any Chinese made machine is subject to random quality issues. If you can afford it get a Taiwanese made machine, they have a much better quality standard.


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## C-Bag (Nov 16, 2022)

There always seems to be outliers in anything. This is compounded by trying to figure if it’s something wrong or a crazy user. I don’t hardly ever buy new because there used to be close to new around for a drastically reduced price. This has been somewhat turned on it’s head recently as there has been a jump in used prices try to stay close to the new prices. In buying new for me who is going to stand behind the machine is a huge factor.


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## markba633csi (Nov 16, 2022)

I would never put down a few grand for something made in the Far East without a company behind me for support- it's just too much of
a gamble.  Stuff leaves those factories that should be melted down and not shipped
-M


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## T Bredehoft (Nov 16, 2022)

You can be sure Matt, of PM, will stand behind his offerings. Yes, they are made in China, Yes, he does  supervise their specifications.


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## MrWhoopee (Nov 16, 2022)

C-Bag said:


> who is going to stand behind the machine is a huge factor.


Anyone standing behind my machine is getting buried in hot chips.


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## graham-xrf (Nov 16, 2022)

If it's a choice between a G0704 Clone (Weiss 25) and a PM-25, then go PM every time. Even if the basic machine is much the same, size-wise as the clones, the PM build standard is really superior. My Cormak, is another G0704 clone similar to Weiss, but  with variable speed, X-drive and some other goodies added. It  is just fine for the price I got it for, and OK for my skill level and space, and I don't regret buying it, but I would trade it for the PM if I could.

That all said, if I were starting out now, I would hang in there for a PM-25, or a PM30 perhaps, but qualified by saying "if I were in North America".
I don't think there is a reasonable route for UK folk to acquire PM anything without a huge import cost. Basically purchase from dealer in USA, to import to to West coast, transport across to East coast, ship to UK, transport to deliver point, in addition to import taxes. It is just not going to happen!

Precision Matthews do have (Taiwan) QC standards, and many in this forum can attest that PM do give support if anything breaks, or things go wrong in any way.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 16, 2022)

Well I settled my choice earlier today.  I purchased the Clausing 8530
Nice machine,  I will pick it up this Friday 
 The seller said best way to transport is take off the base. Lay a couple of old tire in truck bed and lay the machine down on them. Then tie it down
 Makes sense as that's how he said he moved it. May be the best $1,000 I ever spent. I spoke with the Clausing parts department this morning and to my amazement they have most all of the parts except for the castings. He just needs my serial number. 
I'll take pictures and post them. 
Mike


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## markba633csi (Nov 16, 2022)

You did well, those typically go for more here in Cali
Nice little mills and very sought after by the hobby crowd


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## Aaron_W (Nov 16, 2022)

Oldseabee said:


> Well I settled my choice earlier today.  I purchased the Clausing 8530
> Nice machine,  I will pick it up this Friday
> The seller said best way to transport is take off the base. Lay a couple of old tire in truck bed and lay the machine down on them. Then tie it down
> Makes sense as that's how he said he moved it. May be the best $1,000 I ever spent. I spoke with the Clausing parts department this morning and to my amazement they have most all of the parts except for the castings. He just needs my serial number.
> ...



If you got an 8530 that isn't a project for $1000 then you got a great price, the 8530 is a little more desirable than the 8520 and both usually seem to sell for $2000-2500.

It is fairly simple to remove the head leaving the mill in three sections, the base, column / knee, and head. You can further separate the head into 3 parts, and remove the table if you need to move it without an engine hoist or other mechanical help. All together the mill weighs 600-700bs.

This is how I got mine home. Two of us loaded it in my truck, and I only needed the engine hoist to unload the column / knee, everything else was light enough for me to hand carry.

I wouldn't feel too comfortable laying it down with the head attached, seems like a good way to break off a handle or other small bits. I brought mine home off the base, the column tied into the bed of the truck upright, with the head removed.


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## C-Bag (Nov 16, 2022)

Well ya did good old son. I hated to be that guy, but I wanted to say earlier you‘re down the in the cat bird seat in the LA basin IMHO. I see more insane deals down there than anyplace else. Lots of guys here will only buy new so that why I didn’t want to be that guy who said why not buy local, but good job. Now you can take the extra $1500 and start buying tooling. Notice I said start


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## Oldseabee (Nov 16, 2022)

Thanks
 I've been checking out tooling
 In the manual ot states not to use any tools that have a shank on them as it could damage the taper. Drawbar is 3/8 ×16 threads so that's easy. Any recommendations on quality tooling at low prices?
Mike


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## Eddyde (Nov 16, 2022)

Wow that sounds like a score, Congratulations!


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## Oldseabee (Nov 16, 2022)

C-Bag said:


> Well ya did good old son. I hated to be that guy, but I wanted to say earlier you‘re down the in the cat bird seat in the LA basin IMHO. I see more insane deals down there than anyplace else. Lots of guys here will only buy new so that why I didn’t want to be that guy who said why not buy local, but good job. Now you can take the extra $1500 and start buying tooling. Notice I said start


I hate buying expensive things that in a short time are worth half of what you paid or less.  A mill just like this sold for 3200 2 weeks ago in Orange county 
 A bit far to drive.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 16, 2022)

Here is the manual.  Very important info is the lubrication guide showing lube points and frequency.


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## C-Bag (Nov 17, 2022)

Oldseabee said:


> I hate buying expensive things that in a short time are worth half of what you paid or less.  A mill just like this sold for 3200 2 weeks ago in Orange county
> A bit far to drive.


This is why I describe you being in the cat bird seat. To a very much smaller scale I have the same situation here in that patience is totally a virtue. It is very hard to watch and wait but I’ve had stuff pop up local that sometimes I’d had on long range radar for 30yrs. Like my Beverly B-2 throatless shear. Most everything else took 3mo to 1yr once I knew what I was looking for. And to know it took a lot of research and watching YouTube vids.

it has been mentioned here many times but it’s all about what you want to do. Now the guys who just want to make something and have no project in mind are on their own. Me, I’m in the category that only bought machine tools to make what I wanted so I knew my envelope and went the next size bigger. Instead of a 7x12 lathe I went 9x20. Instead of a mini mill I went RF-30. Of course TAS(tool acquisition syndrome) rears its ugly head when some juicy lust inducing tool pops up. But so far I’ve stuck to tooling and only doing a machine upgrade with my drill press.

If I was you I’d be going to the places where machine shops are getting rid of old stock or going out of biz. Those are goldmines and I’ve done really well there. I also invested in tool grinders to maintain my cutters and to renovate what others toss. In my case use and projects have helped me pick a direction for appropriate tooling and equipment.


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## matthewsx (Nov 17, 2022)

Oldseabee said:


> Well I settled my choice earlier today.  I purchased the Clausing 8530
> Nice machine,  I will pick it up this Friday
> The seller said best way to transport is take off the base. Lay a couple of old tire in truck bed and lay the machine down on them. Then tie it down
> Makes sense as that's how he said he moved it. May be the best $1,000 I ever spent. I spoke with the Clausing parts department this morning and to my amazement they have most all of the parts except for the castings. He just needs my serial number.
> ...


Hello and welcome, funny you’re in the town where Harbor Freight is based.

I looked for one of those Clausings for a long time before finding my RF30 clone. $1000 is an insane deal but as you should know, pictures or it didn’t happen. 

Oh and don’t know why nobody has said it yet but 


John


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## Oldseabee (Nov 17, 2022)

Yes Harbor Freight  is based out of my town. In fact I went there today to get shop rags and a oil can. Went home with the rags. Their oil can was a Chinese joke.
 Went to our local hardware store and picked up a nice Golden Rod brand made in the USA.  It's a nice one.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 18, 2022)

Picked it up today. This spent most of it's life in a wood shop. Lots of sawdust and no metal shavings to see. Paint is almost pristine.  Tomorrow mark concrete slab, set anchors and set base. Now my question is inches picture the base is just about centered and 2ft off the wall. What would be pros/cons of setting it offset at 45 degrees on the left side. That would leave my workbench on the right side with more room.


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## matthewsx (Nov 18, 2022)

Place it however you like in your shop. probably no reason to bolt it down.

John


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## Oldseabee (Nov 18, 2022)

John, I live Ina Earthquake zone. We tie most things down, like book cases and equipment.


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## Aaron_W (Nov 18, 2022)

Make sure you leave room for the full range of movement, table and head including room for your hands to operate the cranks. 

These mills have a fairly significant rear overhang due to the motor. I put a low shelf behind mine for material storage to fill the otherwise wasted space. If you do put it in a corner you will want to leave room for movement in case you ever want to swing the head. 

A lot of people like to put their mill in a corner.


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## matthewsx (Nov 18, 2022)

Oldseabee said:


> John, I live Ina Earthquake zone. We tie most things down, like book cases and equipment.


I’m in Santa Cruz so know about earthquakes. Do whatever makes you feel secure. 

Congratulations on getting it home, looks like a beauty


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## Oldseabee (Nov 19, 2022)

It's together. We rented an engine hoist towed behind our truck.  Now the cleaning and oiling starts, and sawdust removal. I'm going to pull the quill gears today as I think it's full of sawdust too.


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## Eddyde (Nov 19, 2022)

A corner is also a great place to place a mill.


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## Aaron_W (Nov 19, 2022)

On further reflection, I'd suggest you try out a couple of different orientations before securing the mill to the floor. It isn't that hard to scooch it on a flat floor. A lot of people do put their mills in the corner, but the layout of the Clausing is quite a bit different than a Bridgeport. Bridgeport kind of leans into the front so is front heavy as far as movement. Everything is out front with a lot of machine hanging out back. The Clausings are much more upright. The head needs some room to travel on the backside and the table is more inline with the column compared to a Bridgeport. 

A corner may work out nicely, but I suspect you will find it creates a lot of wasted space when you look at how far out it has to sit to give decent access to the ends of the table and room for the head to rotate. Mine is in a corner, but not "in the corner" if that makes sense. Angled into the corner just didn't work well in my space.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 19, 2022)

Pictures.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 19, 2022)

I pulled the quill gears, and was surprised,  no sawdust.  This machine was bone dry to, table stiff in both directions.  Now moves along nice and smooth. And the gears are perfect. No gasket on the gear box cover and that surprised me. Parts diagram doesn't show a gasket. Still lot of scrubbing to do, and more oil. Quill looks OK, bearings are ok. I asked Clausing about a new drawbar just in case but this one is fine. I have one broken handle that happened in transit. And one missing handle.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 20, 2022)

I removed the gear drive head yesterday.  No issues like broken gears. But it just didn't seem to work like it should. The manual clearly shows a ball bearing and spring detent in the upper section of the housing. I couldn't find one. Just an upper hole full of crsp. Blew it out and there was a ball bearing and spring. It doesn't go in the upper hole. The upper hole is the oil channel when they drilled the bottom hole. The bottom hole is drilled shallow just for the spring and bearing.  Guess someone has had it apart before. I put wheel bearing grease in the spring and set the ball on top. I did the work over a clear plastic tote as that ball ran away numerous times.  So the way I'd did it was start the shift where it goes just up to the ball bearing.  Then I used a small screw driver to push the ball down while pushing the shaft into place. Needed more hands. But now the detent feature works. The end of the main shift is v not a smooth machined surface on this one. It probably should be turned down and a bushing installed in the head. I would have thought Clausing would have put bushings on all the gears. Maybe that's why there are so many issues with gears breaking in this model and design. 
I also took apart the vice that came with it. It's a nice heavy Clausing vice that turns and has a graduated scale. 
Now I'm working on the wiring as we had to disconnect the wire to the head when we pulled it apart.


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## great white (Nov 20, 2022)

Oldseabee said:


> Pictures.
> View attachment 427261


Auuuggghghhhhh! UNNECESSARY!!! UNNECESSARY!!!! MY EYES!!!! MY EYES!!!!!


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## Oldseabee (Nov 20, 2022)

I deleted that picture.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 21, 2022)

When I get this all completed and there are still issues with the gear drive . Whats the opinion on bushings installed in the gear box cover, that would be easy. And in the head, lots more work. I almost think that the main drive gear would be an easy bushing job. At least in the cover. And that may correct most of the wobble.


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## matthewsx (Nov 21, 2022)

Oldseabee said:


> I deleted that picture.


Thought it was perfect, could be any one of us.


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## matthewsx (Nov 21, 2022)

Oldseabee said:


> When I get this all completed and there are still issues with the gear drive . Whats the opinion on bushings installed in the gear box cover, that would be easy. And in the head, lots more work. I almost think that the main drive gear would be an easy bushing job. At least in the cover. And that may correct most of the wobble.


Bushings are a completely legit way to refurbish any thrust surface, but you already know that. If you need any small bits of bronze let me know.

Put it back together and measure and go from there, the more pictures the better.

John


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## Oldseabee (Nov 21, 2022)

matthewsx said:


> Bushings are a completely legit way to refurbish any thrust surface, but you already know that. If you need any small bits of bronze let me know.
> 
> Put it back together and measure and go from there, the more pictures the better.
> 
> John


This makes me wish I had a lathe, even a desktop one could turn bushings. The main gear shaft is the one that really bothers me. The shaft bears on cast iron on both ends. And the smaller gears set in the gear case cover are blind holes. I could drill out the blind holes, install a bushing and a plug with an oiler. I'm calling Clausing in the morning to see about availability and price for some of the items and I'm going to ask about a new main shaft and cover. 
I'll post what I find out. Mike


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## matthewsx (Nov 21, 2022)

Oldseabee said:


> This makes me wish I had a lathe, even a desktop one could turn bushings. The main gear shaft is the one that really bothers me. The shaft bears on cast iron on both ends. And the smaller gears set in the gear case cover are blind holes. I could drill out the blind holes, install a bushing and a plug with an oiler. I'm calling Clausing in the morning to see about availability and price for some of the items and I'm going to ask about a new main shaft and cover.
> I'll post what I find out. Mike


Hey, somebody needs a lathe too


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## Oldseabee (Nov 21, 2022)

Called Clausing and they do have some of my parts. Then I called a guy in Florida who was making a few parts.  He is out of stock. He mentioned that some machines had bronze bushings in the gear train. Maybe mine was a early model.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 21, 2022)

Today finished the wiring with a new 20ft cord and finished the other wiring at the motor. Plugged it in and it runs. and the right direction too.
I was looking at the bottom of the quill and noticed threads. So I reached up and was surprised that the retainer was loose. Unscrewed it and was really surprised as it has a Leather seal. Not rubber. And really dirty. So tomorrow i'm tearing down the head and inspecting the bearings. I was just going to order a full set and thought what a waste of money if they are OK. I'll take pictures. I learned not to spray Brake cleaner on the paint, it works like paint stripper.  The head is a bit noisy but not bad so it may need to be just cleaned and lubed, I hope. Those bearings are not cheap.
Mike


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## Aaron_W (Nov 22, 2022)

Oldseabee said:


> Called Clausing and they do have some of my parts. Then I called a guy in Florida who was making a few parts.  He is out of stock. He mentioned that some machines had bronze bushings in the gear train. Maybe mine was a early model.



8530 was a much later model than 8520, it came along about 10 years later, no mention of it in 1966 literature, but is mentioned in 1968. 

The 8530 is an improved 8520 so it seems unlikely that they wouldn't have addressed the bushing issue by that point, I wonder if the head is original? The head of the 8520 and 30 is the same so if the original were damaged, somebody could have parted out a good head from an early 8520 to replace it. 

My 8520 was made in 1965, I don't recall if it has bushings or not. Are you talking about the quill feed gears? 




Oldseabee said:


> This makes me wish I had a lathe, even a desktop one could turn bushings. The main gear shaft is the one that really bothers me. The shaft bears on cast iron on both ends. And the smaller gears set in the gear case cover are blind holes. I could drill out the blind holes, install a bushing and a plug with an oiler. I'm calling Clausing in the morning to see about availability and price for some of the items and I'm going to ask about a new main shaft and cover.
> I'll post what I find out. Mike



There are a couple of South Bend 9As listed on the LA Craigslist, prices don't look bad $1000-1200.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 22, 2022)

C-Bag said:


> Well ya did good old son. I hated to be that guy, but I wanted to say earlier you‘re down the in the cat bird seat in the LA basin IMHO. I see more insane deals down there than anyplace else. Lots of guys here will only buy new so that why I didn’t want to be that guy who said why not buy local, but good job. Now you can take the extra $1500 and start buying tooling. Notice I said start





C-Bag said:


> This is why I describe you being in the cat bird seat. To a very much smaller scale I have the same situation here in that patience is totally a virtue. It is very hard to watch and wait but I’ve had stuff pop up local that sometimes I’d had on long range radar for 30yrs. Like my Beverly B-2 throatless shear. Most everything else took 3mo to 1yr once I knew what I was looking for. And to know it took a lot of research and watching YouTube vids.
> 
> it has been mentioned here many times but it’s all about what you want to do. Now the guys who just want to make something and have no project in mind are on their own. Me, I’m in the category that only bought machine tools to make what I wanted so I knew my envelope and went the next size bigger. Instead of a 7x12 lathe I went 9x20. Instead of a mini mill I went RF-30. Of course TAS(tool acquisition syndrome) rears its ugly head when some juicy lust inducing tool pops up. But so far I’ve stuck to tooling and only doing a machine upgrade with my drill press.
> 
> If I was you I’d be going to the places where machine shops are getting rid of old stock or going out of biz. Those are goldmines and I’ve done really well there. I also invested in tool grinders to maintain my cutters and to renovate what others toss. In my case use and projects have helped me pick a direction for appropriate tooling and equipment.





matthewsx said:


> Bushings are a completely legit way to refurbish any thrust surface, but you already know that. If you need any small bits of bronze let me know.
> 
> Put it back together and measure and go from there, the more pictures the better.
> 
> John





matthewsx said:


> Bushings are a completely legit way to refurbish any thrust surface, but you already know that. If you need any small bits of bronze let me know.





Aaron_W said:


> Are you talking about the quill feed gears?


Yes. Those should have had bronze bushings, at least the main gear.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 22, 2022)

Head is off the mill and now disassembled.  All bearing will be replaced. The 2 lower
	

		
			
		

		
	





	

		
			
		

		
	
 bearings had way too much grease in them and the lower of the 2 show heat signs baking the grease onto the outer bearing shell. All the major parts such as quill and spindle are ok. Not much wear. Should be a nice tight machine when finished.
 In looking at bearings I found some that are a Duplex double row the correct size. I spoke with a Spindle rebuild shop and he said that's what they use but a Class 4 for better performance.  I may look into that.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 22, 2022)

And for removing the index rod-screw #696-007 once I had enough material stick out I chucked up my drill and backed it out, saves time and fingers. I have included some other pictures of the tear down.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 22, 2022)

I spoke with 2 Clausing experts today. Both said Absolutely No Grease at all. 20 weight oil only on the lower spindle bearings. They said that over greasing kills these bearings.  And they don't need a large volume of oil, just a little bit goes q long way.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 24, 2022)

Happy Thanksgiving. 
I think I found yhe culprit causing the broken gears. No bronze bushings. So while it apart I'm going to bush it. I'll take pictures.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 24, 2022)

I spoke with Brian Axe in Clausing parts depth. Most of the parts I need are thankfully in stock. Just for ****s and giggles I asked about the spindle. Yes in stock with sticker shock. $1,800.00. Thankfully mine is ok.
I could part it out and triple my money. But I think it's a keeper. Brian will also email manuals and parts drawings.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 27, 2022)

I have a question about bearings.  My lower spindel bearings are a matched set class 4 . The next bearing up the shaft is a sealed bearing.  Mine was a MRC 204 SFF.
Sealed. I'm getting class 4 for that one too. The upper spindle bearings are a matched set of 9105 pp4 sealed class 4.
   Do I really need a matched set for the 9105 bearings. My mills spindle bearing only matched on the lower 2. It had 3 different brands to.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 28, 2022)

Tooling, tool holders. Should I purchase a mt2 to bt30 adapter or just use straight mt2?


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## matthewsx (Nov 28, 2022)

Oldseabee said:


> Tooling, tool holders. Should I purchase a mt2 to bt30 adapter or just use straight mt2?


Probably best off with MT2 to ER chuck, but a set of MT2 collets will work too.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 29, 2022)

matthewsx said:


> Probably best off with MT2 to ER chuck, but a set of MT2 collets will work too.


I was lucky in that it came with almost a full set of collects. I just like the idea of some adapter type that stays in the spindle and the use of a tool to switch cutters. Seems more simple and Rigid that way. This machine has a very small diameter spindel.  Maybe a replacement spindle in a bigger size as the quill is good sized.


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## matthewsx (Nov 29, 2022)

Oldseabee said:


> I was lucky in that it came with almost a full set of collects. I just like the idea of some adapter type that stays in the spindle and the use of a tool to switch cutters. Seems more simple and Rigid that way. This machine has a very small diameter spindel.  Maybe a replacement spindle in a bigger size as the quill is good sized.


ER32 would be a good choice.


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## Aaron_W (Nov 29, 2022)

I run the MT2 in mine but there are some MT2 ER32 collet chucks out there if you prefer. Mine was modified with a self ejecting spindle, so the MT2 collets are no issue, no beating on the drawbar needed to get them free. Only benefit I see to ER32 would be the larger collets, but you will trade off some spindle to table distance which is not all that large to begin with.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 29, 2022)

Aaron_W said:


> I run the MT2 in mine but there are some MT2 ER32 collet chucks out there if you prefer. Mine was modified with a self ejecting spindle, so the MT2 collets are no issue, no beating on the drawbar needed to get them free. Only benefit I see to ER32 would be the larger collets, but you will trade off some spindle to table distance which is not all that large to begin with.


How do you convert to a self ejecting spindle?
 I was thinking about replacing the spindel with one ground for a different size like er 32. I have to take some measurements and see if that's even an option.


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## Aaron_W (Nov 29, 2022)

Oldseabee said:


> How do you convert to a self ejecting spindle?
> I was thinking about replacing the spindel with one ground for a different size like er 32. I have to take some measurements and see if that's even an option.



I got it this way, but I'll look through the documents I got with it. The prior owner did the conversion, and may have included the plan he followed. I don't think it is a major project, it just changes it so when you reach the end of the threads it starts pushing the collet out instead of just spinning.


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## Oldseabee (Nov 30, 2022)

Is anyone running a Tree 2UVR mill head on there Clausing mill? Is so who made the adapter? Clausing sold both the 8520 and 30 models with this Tree head.
Mike


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## Oldseabee (Dec 5, 2022)

I now have all the bearings except for one that will be delivered today. Here is a picture of the upper spindel bearing. Can you say DRY-NOISY. The discoloration is heat tracking and burnt oil/grease.


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## Oldseabee (Dec 6, 2022)

Today I spent several hours just cleaning up the head. Deburring all milled areas. Then I oiled the clean quill and the fun started. It slid in tight and smooth. I installed the depth gauge stop multiple times. I used a New stop from Clausing and had to remove material as it was just a thousands or so too big in diameter.  I also hand stoned the depth gauge cutout as it was rough. My old stop was loose as the screw was not tightened up. I also ran the gauge screw through a die to clean it up. The depth gauge/stop now works as designed. Tomorrow I'll build out and install the spindel.  New class 7 matched set of lower bearings will not be greased as per Clausing.  Just well oiled. I also picked up a new quill drive gear. Part # 341-023. My gear was getting really worn but the teeth on the quill are just fine. For assembly lube I'm using Ballistol oil. I purchased my bottle 4 years ago. As close as you can get to a super high grade lube.  I use it on my guns too.


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## Oldseabee (Dec 15, 2022)

I now have the head rebuild complete and installed.  There are a few tricks I'll pass on. Those 2 upper pulley bearings are a pain, a royal pain. The first bearing on sleeve you need to install short of being all the way down. Make sure the 2 snap rings are in the pulley.  Install the sleeve on the head. I used blue lock tite on every bolt. Next install the pulley onto the sleeve and start the second bearing.  I used a section of 4140 tube same diameter as the inner race and tapped it in. Oiled it all.  I had to pull the pulley off one more time to seat the first bearing a bit deeper. Then re installed the pulley and then the little snap ring just fit. Hooked everything up and it is smooth running.  The lower bearings are class 7. The upper pulley bearings are class 1. I went through 3 sets of regular bearings for the pulley and found they were not round.  One was off by 0.07. 
Now I'm waiting for after Christmas and will replace the motor. Hopefully with a DC motor and controller.  My motor is so noisy it's unreal. I checked Inside with a flashlight and I'm amazed it didn't catch fire. It's full of sawdust. So needless to say it is not a sealed motor.


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## Oldseabee (Dec 15, 2022)

Has anyone replaced one of these motors with a sealed quite one or a DC one?


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## Aaron_W (Dec 16, 2022)

Oldseabee said:


> Has anyone replaced one of these motors with a sealed quite one or a DC one?



Mine has a Baldor 3 phase invertor drive with a VFD. It is not silent, you certainly know it is running but I would not say it is loud either.


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## Oldseabee (Dec 16, 2022)

Aaron, what size Baldor are you running.  Most Baldors are smooth running.  And some are really quite too.


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## Aaron_W (Dec 16, 2022)

Oldseabee said:


> Aaron, what size Baldor are you running.  Most Baldors are smooth running.  And some are really quite too.



It is a 3/4hp motor. Here is the tag with details





I was very lucky with my mill, the prior owner had it for a few years and got it nicely set up, but then decided he wanted a bigger mill and bought a Bridgeport. 

Bridgeport isn't an option for me space wise and the 8520 has been perfect for me.


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## Oldseabee (Dec 16, 2022)

Thanks.
I think I'm going to try and get a Baldor 3585 DC motor. And a Baldor speed controller too.. They come up on eBay used and new and are reasonable in pricing., at least on eBay.


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## Oldseabee (Dec 29, 2022)

I hope we all have a wonderful new year.
 I just finished purchasing my dc controler. A ABB BALDOR BC354 PWM DC Motor Control NEMA 4X. And a 1 hp Baldor dc motor. A CDX2001 Direct Current 1 HP 1750 rpm Hazardous 182CZ. After lots of reading up dc seems the way to go. Really no torque curve. And the controler is rated for this application. Can't wait to install.  But while waiting I'm going to be cleaning and painting.  Most of the paint is sill in good condition.  Maybe use the gray paint as a primer and paint it yellow, red or whatever.  I was thinking OD Green or red white and blue. Probably just keep it old battle ship gray. 
Have a great holiday. 
Oh, costs, 200 for motor included shipping and 200 for the controler on ebay. 
Mike


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## Oldseabee (Dec 31, 2022)

Progress or not. More of a Money Pit. After what I found yesterday I plan now on a complete tear down.  Or at least the main table and cross table come off. 
While removing the old motor I found 2 bad bearings on the belt adjusting shaft and a damaged shaft to. If I had a lathe I would make a new one. Or weld this one up and recut it on a lathe. The top bearing had heated up and the contact area for that bearing is no longer round. I think Clausing has on in stock.  Oh what fun. In checking the parts diagram I found that the mill uses a total of 6 bearings that size which is a fafnier 201kdd.i got a set of 6 off ebay from one seller.


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## Oldseabee (Dec 31, 2022)

To make the motor removal a bit easier I raised the knee almost to the top. Loosened the main shaft that holds the head on one end and the motor on the other, then swiveled the motor over the bed. Made life easier on my back.


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## matthewsx (Dec 31, 2022)

A labor of love.


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## Oldseabee (Dec 31, 2022)

It is very frustrating at times. But very rewarding when I can get it done correctly.  I'm still thinking of converting it to a CNC machine and buying the bits and pieces as the budget allows.  The bearings and shaft just put a large dent in the budget. But it will be a really good machine once it's rehabilitation is over, and modernized. 
For those folks that don't know about Clausing,  still in business and they have a great tech department.  It helps if you have your parts list in front of you. The person I spoke with was very helpful and positive about me rebuilding the 8530.
Happy New year's.


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## slow-poke (Jan 1, 2023)

Oldseabee said:


> It is very frustrating at times. But very rewarding when I can get it done correctly.  I'm still thinking of converting it to a CNC machine and buying the bits and pieces as the budget allows.  The bearings and shaft just put a large dent in the budget. But it will be a really good machine once it's rehabilitation is over, and modernized.
> For those folks that don't know about Clausing,  still in business and they have a great tech department.  It helps if you have your parts list in front of you. The person I spoke with was very helpful and positive about me rebuilding the 8530.
> Happy New year's.


The CNC conversion of my benchtop mill was worth every microsecond It took. I just picked up the required motors, gears etc. and fabricated the brackets. If I ever get another (larger) mill, the very first thing I will do is convert it, useful beyond words.


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## Oldseabee (Jan 3, 2023)

For reference on mill repairs.  In this parts diagram, upper right corner is a shaft for belt tension.  The last owner had trashed the shaft. More that likely caused by not paying attention to the machine. Part 700-019 shaft has 2 different inside diameter bearings with the largest I.D. bearing being on the bottom.  The top bearing had spun on the shaft eating the upper bearing mating surface. I was lucky that Clausing still had several in stock. Price was $ 136.00 I feel really lucky that the bearing didn't completely freeze up and eat the pully. I'm going to super clean the bore in the pully for both bearings and use Blue Loctite to anchor them in rhe housing. Don't use Red. Red is a bear to remove.


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## OTmachine (Jan 4, 2023)

Oldseabee said:


> I’m going to super clean the bore in the pully for both bearings and use Blue Loctite to anchor them in rhe housing. Don't use Red. Red is a bear to remove.


Green melts / loosens at 350 deg F.


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## Oldseabee (Jan 4, 2023)

So Green would be better maybe. I have used Blue in the past with good results.


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## DeadGuyAle (Jan 4, 2023)

Oldseabee said:


> Progress or not. More of a Money Pit.



Understand that statement, I'm refurbing a Clausing 4900 and at times I question the whole buying used thing  When it's all done no doubt the juice will worth the squeeze.  
Also have to agree that Clausing has been exceptional in responding to emails or working with me on the phone which is such a treat and somewhat unexpected these days

Thanks for taking the time to post the work being done, enjoy seeing what others are doing. 
Now I have to start looking for an 82XX 

Steve


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## Aaron_W (Jan 4, 2023)

Oldseabee said:


> Progress or not. More of a Money Pit. After what I found yesterday I plan now on a complete tear down.  Or at least the main table and cross table come off.
> While removing the old motor I found 2 bad bearings on the belt adjusting shaft and a damaged shaft to. If I had a lathe I would make a new one. Or weld this one up and recut it on a lathe. The top bearing had heated up and the contact area for that bearing is no longer round. I think Clausing has on in stock.  Oh what fun. In checking the parts diagram I found that the mill uses a total of 6 bearings that size which is a fafnier 201kdd.i got a set of 6 off ebay from one seller.



Just keep looking forward to the end product. To buy a new mill that is really comparable to what you will have when the rebuild is done, you would be looking at spending $4000-6000.


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## Oldseabee (Jan 6, 2023)

I had ordered a used Baldor 1 hp dc motor. I thought i did the measurements. Must have been too many beers.  Motor was delivered by FedEx. I should have refused delivery. I'm sure the shaft is bent or bearings damaged.  The seller is taking it back
 Way too big too. This was the bottom of the box. Is what seller told me. I have already ordered another 1hp dc but new. Got it on sale for 203 shipped free.


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## Oldseabee (Jan 7, 2023)

I called FedEx today and complained about the above delivery and point blank asked that they come pick it up.  They agreed and will stop by next Monday
 And no charge. So I got lucky this time


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