# New G0704



## Kevlar (Mar 23, 2013)

I just got a new toy! 
I am being tortured looking at her as I have one arm in a sling due to rotator cuff surgery. In the mean time I can put together a shopping / wish list. So I am looking for some user advice on the following.
Now I have to spend some bucks on tooling and a vise.
What are you G0704 users using for a vise?
What types of end mill holders or collets do you recommend?
I am interested in trying out the TTS quick change tooling has anyone used this?
I plan on ordering the DVD set that Hoss offers some time in the next couple of months.
Thanks for all your help in advance...


----------



## Smudgemo (Mar 23, 2013)

Order a the 37T plastic gear so you have an extra on hand.  My 4" import vise fits pretty well and is really nice, but any 4" ought to be good.  I'd consider the ER-32 collet set because changing R8 collets is a pain with the small wrench/bolt head.  I got the Er-25 set for my horizontal mill and they are nice.  
The set of 8 cutters from Grizzly (half 2 flute, half 4) seem to work well, and you don't have to try and figure out what you might use the most.

-Ryan


----------



## fretsman (Mar 23, 2013)

Congrats on the new purchase, but also I'm sorry to hear about the injury. In regards to the vise, I can't argue with the 4" import if you can afford it as that's definitely the way to go. I have the cheaper Shars and it has served my well for about a half a year so far. 

I will be building the butterfly impact wrench power drawbar, (I'm using it now, just not attached to the mill yet) and I purchased the special tormach 3/4" collet and also a set of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251139490102?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Excellent grind work and a great deal. 

Have fun-
Dave


----------



## wrmiller (Mar 23, 2013)

I'd be interested in you impressions, once you get to play with your new toy! I am considering this or the PM25MV machine as well. It will probably be a month or so before I pull the trigger on this.

Bill


----------



## kd4gij (Mar 24, 2013)

I have a g0704 and been happy with it. It does everything I need. This is how I deal with the small draw bar nut.


----------



## 24more (Mar 24, 2013)

I also just took in a new G0704. All I have done is the break in and made some aluminum chips. I ordered a 5" from enco with the free shipping. It was $127. It is heavy and I feel it will do what I need.


----------



## 24more (Mar 24, 2013)

kd4gij said:


> I have a g0704 and been happy with it. It does everything I need. This is how I deal with the small draw bar nut.



How does that work with the bigger sleeve nut under the hex nut?  I am confused. What's the bigger sleeve but for over the draw bar?


----------



## kd4gij (Mar 24, 2013)

The sleave nut is the stock part. it ejects the collet when you losen the draw bar. The draw bar has a 10mm square head witch is a pain so I cut a piece of 13/16" hex bar and broched a square hole to press on. Now I use a 13/16" wrench insted of 10mm.


----------



## fretsman (Mar 24, 2013)

kd4gij said:


> I have a g0704 and been happy with it. It does everything I need. This is how I deal with the small draw bar nut.



Question for you, is the matching green paint you used, the one that Grizzly sells? Is it spray or brush on?

Thanks,
Dave


----------



## kd4gij (Mar 24, 2013)

I used Rustolium hammer coat green witch matcheses the mill


----------



## 24more (Mar 24, 2013)

kd4gij said:


> The sleave nut is the stock part. it ejects the collet when you losen the draw bar. The draw bar has a 10mm square head witch is a pain so I cut a piece of 13/16" hex bar and broched a square hole to press on. Now I use a 13/16" wrench insted of 10mm.



I feel like I am hijacking this thread but, when I change a collet I take off the sleeve nut, then loosen the draw bar, tap draw board with a piece of wood, and then finish. Is this wrong?


----------



## kd4gij (Mar 24, 2013)

24more said:


> I feel like I am hijacking this thread but, when I change a collet I take off the sleeve nut, then loosen the draw bar, tap draw board with a piece of wood, and then finish. Is this wrong?



 No that is fine. I went that rought becouse I had the hex bar layinf around.


----------



## fretsman (Mar 24, 2013)

kd4gij said:


> I used Rustolium hammer coat green witch matcheses the mill



Thank you sir-

Dave


----------



## cobraJack (Mar 24, 2013)

For OP.
I'm using a Glacern 4" vice. I really like it.

Jack


----------



## bix (Mar 25, 2013)

>>What are you G0704 users using for a vise?
>>What types of end mill holders or collets do you recommend?


I got my G0704 in January, and love it.

Vise: I bought the Grizzly G7156  4" vise with the rotary base. Unless I need the rotary base, I use it without the base to make the setup more rigid and to eliminate the base height. But I actually needed the rotary base the other day and was glad I had it.

End mill holders: R8 collets are very difficult to use successfully as end mill holders. You just can't get enough torque on the draw bar to get the collet sufficiently tight. I don't know the spec for an R8 collet, but the nut torque spec on an ER32 collet nut is 100 ft lbs. You aren't going to get there with a tommy bar and a 10mm wrench. I use the end mill holders with the set screws and they have worked very well. I'm about to an an ER40 collet set to the collection and then I'll see how that works.

Plastic gear: I agree with the guy who said "get a spare". That gear died within a couple of hours of initial use. When I got in to look at what happened, it was clear that the motor was positioned incorrectly from the factory and the gear was not full engaged, stripping off all the teeth tips. I cleaned it up as well as I could and repositioned the motor and was able to keep using the machine until the warranty replacement gear arrived, which took six weeks (!). Apparently Grizzly is chronically out of stock on this gear. I ordered two more to have on hand a month ago and won't get them until some time in April.

Digital readouts: I added x, y and z digital scales. I have found I really didn't need the z-axis scale on the head, as the quill has a readout that has met my needs. 

Tramming aid: I did that mod, and found it very simple to do and very useful.

I know you will have a lot of fun with this machine - I sure have.

bix


----------



## outsider347 (Mar 25, 2013)

bix
 Just got my 704 a few weeks ago
big fun so far

whats the "Tramming Aid Mod?
tks


----------



## 24more (Mar 25, 2013)

5" import vise from Enco. Works pretty darn good for what I need. I will also be doing the tramming aid. It is two small blocks, one on each side of the machine to help fine tune the tram. Some people also add two bolts to the rotating axis for stability. Mine came with 3 bolts.


----------



## bix (Mar 26, 2013)

outsider347 said:


> bix
> whats the "Tramming Aid Mod?
> tks



See http://www.g0704.com/Projects2.html and scroll down the page to Tramming Aid. The g0704.com website has a lot of really good info and ideas.

The tramming aid provides threaded stops pushing on each side of the head, so the head can be moved with the screws instead of tapping with a dead-blow, to get the initial tramming correct. Once the set screws are locked down, they can be swung out of the way to rotate the head, and put back in position when the head is restored to vertical, and they will bring the tram back into alignment. See http://www.cnczone.com/forums/benchtop_machines/96443-new_grizzly_g0704-27.html#post745618 for a better photo of one of these installed on the head which makes it easier to see how it is used. I put them on both sides of the head.

bix


----------



## fretsman (Mar 26, 2013)

Yep, that would be something that "machinechick" came up with on the Zone:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/benchtop_machines/96443-new_grizzly_g0704-9.html#post745618 

Post # 324

Dave


----------



## Kevlar (Apr 1, 2013)

Thanks for all the great info guys. I made some chips today. The machine worked well for what I did. I think this is going to be a solid little machine. Hope everyone had a good Easter weekend.


----------



## Rbeckett (Apr 1, 2013)

Bix, 
Thats great!!!  Glad your arm has healed enough to use it again.  Be carefull and follow your Drs instructions on recovery.  Dont want to have a warranty repair on a rotator, believe me.  Dont forget pics too.  We never seem to get enough pics, so snapp a few as you go please and dont hesitate to post em up.  If you have issues getting them to post any mod will be glad to help you get that fixed pretty quick.  Thanks for showing us you new machine!!!

Bob


----------



## Kevlar (Apr 2, 2013)

Quick picture from the side.


----------



## Tommie D (Apr 2, 2013)

Nice little machine Kevlar!  I think i'm going to brake down and get one myself.
Tom


----------



## cg 2005 (Apr 4, 2013)

The G704 is a very nice mill for the price.  I use mine 6 days a week.  The speed has been increased to 3500 and 1750 rpm, high and low respectively, with a simple Vmax pot adjustment.  

A pancake fan and fins keep the motor temperature under 100° F.  

The pulley and weights keep my arm from tiring.


----------



## fretsman (Apr 4, 2013)

May I ask how you did your speed increase?

Thanks,
Dave


----------



## cg 2005 (Apr 4, 2013)

fretsman said:


> May I ask how you did your speed increase?
> 
> Thanks,
> Dave



It is actually very easy.  You need to remove the back cover and adjust the Vmax pot to its fullest + amount.  Do this at your own risk.


----------



## fretsman (Apr 5, 2013)

Ok, thanks for the tip, but I heard conflicting results for that trick where some folks had ended up with a bad controller because of doing that. 

I think I heard it on the CNC Zone but can't remember now or I'd refer to it.

Thanks again!
Dave


----------

