# PM 1440TL with Hitachi WJ200-075LF VFD Delivery, Clean up and VFD Set up



## BladesIIB (Oct 28, 2020)

My PM 1440TL arrived on Friday and I spent the weekend getting the machine in place, cleaning off all the rust preventative and finishing all the VFD wiring.  Took the whole weekend and I put together a video of the process from truck delivery, using a forklift and rollers to get it in place, all through clean up, and an overview of the wiring for the VFD.  Check out the video on YouTube - 3 days of work in 35 minutes.  Hope it will help someone with their planning process.  I spent weeks planning for the deliver to ensure I had everything in place.  Also spent about 3 weeks learning about the VFD an getting the enclosure side of it built and ready before the lathe arrived.






Last night I finally ran the break process and changed the oil in the Headstock and the Gearbox.  Tomorrow I have the day off and will cut the block for the Quick Change Tool post I purchased and finish fitting the 4 jaw chuck and the Atlas collet chuck.  Then it should be time to start making some parts.  So far everything has gone really smooth.  I was unsure about the VFD install, and Matt at PM told me there was a lot of support on this forum and he was correct.  Huge shout out to Mark Jacobs mksj on this forum for all of his help and support getting me all set up with the VFD.  There is a learning curve to get the VFD set up but in my opinion it was so worth it.  Very glad I have a 3 phase machine and the added features the VFD provides.

Looking forward to learning and sharing on this forum.  Currently working on a new lock mechanism for a folding knife.  I have a couple of prototypes complete and am working through the patent process.  May be a while before I can post those, but will share when I can.


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## TX COWDOC (Oct 28, 2020)

Great video.  I enjoy these for many reasons. Always good to see how others move equipment and organize their shops.


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## BladesIIB (Oct 28, 2020)

TX COWDOC said:


> Great video.  I enjoy these for many reasons. Always good to see how others move equipment and organize their shops.


Thanks, appreciate the feedback.


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## TX COWDOC (Oct 28, 2020)

So....what are you using the lathe for?


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## 7milesup (Oct 28, 2020)

Very nice!!  I am beginning to wonder what I am doing wrong, with all you guys buying TL series lathes.  If I could, I would upgrade from my PM1022 lathe, but not in the cards yet.
I am curious about the patent process.  I had a good friend of mine, whom is an engineer, tell me that it is at least $5000 for a basic patent.  Seems like if that is true that the little guy could never patent anything.
I had to laugh at one of the comments on the YouTube when he said "I love your Hellcat".  I was thinking F6F?  Oh, nope.  Dodge.  LOL.


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## BladesIIB (Oct 28, 2020)

TX COWDOC said:


> So....what are you using the lathe for?


Spacers/stand offs for folding knives as well as a few other knife parts. Thumb studs, and some custom pins for a new lock design I invented.


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## BladesIIB (Oct 28, 2020)

7milesup said:


> Very nice!!  I am beginning to wonder what I am doing wrong, with all you guys buying TL series lathes.  If I could, I would upgrade from my PM1022 lathe, but not in the cards yet.
> I am curious about the patent process.  I had a good friend of mine, whom is an engineer, tell me that it is at least $5000 for a basic patent.  Seems like if that is true that the little guy could never patent anything.
> I had to laugh at one of the comments on the YouTube when he said "I love your Hellcat".  I was thinking F6F?  Oh, nope.  Dodge.  LOL.


Ha, yes Dodge Hellcat. As for the patent process, your friend gave you the basic info about right. You have lawyer fees, then drawing fees, then filing fees. Base price or extra if you want to expedite. Then sounds like they usually send it back a few times for revisions so more lawyer fees. I am hoping it is all worth it in the end. Only time will tell. Could end up just another 8.5x11 piece of paper I hang on the wall beside my Machinist Ticket and my Degree. As for the lathe, I had a Jet in order and a buddy steered me to PM. The GT was not in stock so I went with what was. Very happy I did. The extra weight of this TL makes it a pretty rock solid machine.


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## 7milesup (Oct 28, 2020)

Thank you for the response my friend.  
One thing you will really like is the service from PM.  They are top notch should you ever need them.  Oh, and welcome to the best (friendliest) machining forum on the internet.


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## BladesIIB (Oct 28, 2020)

7milesup said:


> Thank you for the response my friend.
> One thing you will really like is the service from PM.  They are top notch should you ever need them.  Oh, and welcome to the best (friendliest) machining forum on the internet.


Thank you!  Very welcoming group so far.


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## NCjeeper (Oct 28, 2020)

Good looking lathe and perfect size.


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## wrmiller (Oct 28, 2020)

Nice lathe! The 1440TL would make a great pistolsmithing lathe. 

Have fun with that thing!


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## erikmannie (Oct 29, 2020)

I just received a PM-1660TL two weeks ago. I am certain that our machines made the trip over from Taiwan together.

I enjoyed watching your video. Have fun with your new machine!


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## BladesIIB (Oct 29, 2020)

erikmannie said:


> I just received a PM-1660TL two weeks ago. I am certain that our machines made the trip over from Taiwan together.
> 
> I enjoyed watching your video. Have fun with your new machine!


Thank you, glad you liked the video. Enjoy that 1660 as well. I am sure you are right they traveled over together.


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## jeremysf (Mar 9, 2021)

BladesIIB said:


> My PM 1440TL arrived on Friday and I spent the weekend getting the machine in place, cleaning off all the rust preventative and finishing all the VFD wiring.  Took the whole weekend and I put together a video of the process from truck delivery, using a forklift and rollers to get it in place, all through clean up, and an overview of the wiring for the VFD.  Check out the video on YouTube - 3 days of work in 35 minutes.  Hope it will help someone with their planning process.  I spent weeks planning for the deliver to ensure I had everything in place.  Also spent about 3 weeks learning about the VFD an getting the enclosure side of it built and ready before the lathe arrived.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Awesome! One thing I'm confused about is the VFD. Doesn't the wj200-075lf require three phase power on the input? Are you feeding it 3-phase power from the wall, or is it possible to wire the wj200-075lf with single phase 200V on the input side?


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## BladesIIB (Mar 9, 2021)

Jeremy, it is possible to wire it with Single Phase Input, so yes I have single phase 220V going n from the wall.  The draw etc. is still based on the full power of the VFD even though I am using half for my motor. That part gets beyond my expertise for sure. I did put together a full video on just the VFD though that provides a lot more detail. Link below.


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## jeremysf (Mar 9, 2021)

Awesome, thank you! I *just* ordered a 1440TL, but was also considering the 1440GT. I'm not a gunsmith so the shorter spindle was not a particularly big draw for me and my final choice was in no small part from watching your YouTube channel, so thank you, thank you!

How did you learn that you could connect only the two single phase inputs to the VFD (ignoring the third leg on the input)? Obviously you have it installed and working, so not questioning your success with it, but struggling to find anything in the manual (online) that describes that kind of a setup with the w200-075lf.

Thanks again for your help, and for sharing your experience here and on YouTube!


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## BladesIIB (Mar 9, 2021)

Appreciate the feedback on the videos and glad they helped you make your decision. I was similar on the GT. Not a gunsmith either and really like the ability to cut metric and standard threads with no change gears so big plus on the TL. I relied on the expertise of PM who sold me the VFD and said it was sized right. I believe I did find somewhere on the Hitachi site in their FAQ’s about it. And of course mksj on this forum was a huge help getting it all put together.  It clearly does work well so can’t question their knowledge.


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## jeremysf (Mar 9, 2021)

Cool, based on that tip, I found this document on Hitachi's website, for anyone else curious about the topic:



			http://www.hitachi-america.us/supportingdocs/forbus/inverters/Support/AN032404-1_Rev_A_Sizing_for_Single-Phase.pdf


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## BladesIIB (Mar 9, 2021)

That is the document. Thanks for posting!


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## mksj (Mar 10, 2021)

Some VFD manufactures will specify the 2 terminals if used for single phase use of a 3 phase input VFD, others like Hitachi specify it in a separate document. In many VFD's either L2 or L3 can be used for the other leg, as they all connect to the input diodes which rectify the AC. In some VFD's the fans run off of the AC from 2 phases, so it is important to check the documents or email technical. The other factor is to understand the VFD load type and the derating for single phase. The general convention is a derating of 1.7 for single phase input for a 3 phase input VFD, but the range can vary widely. Example is Hitachi's new line (SF-P1) of VFD's, if you look at say their SJ – P1-00330-LFUF which is listed as a 7.5Hp model 200-240 volt, 3 phase, 33/30/25A depending on the load type, it is only rated for 12A with single phase input so 3 Hp motor. The WJ200 is an older model, but is a bit more rugged and has less derating, Other VFD's like the new models from Automation Direct the derating is a factor of 3.

With the 5 Hp motor, one can use either the Hitachi WJ200-055LF (25A) or WJ200-075LF (33A) with a derating of  1.7 quoted for this model. The price difference is small between these two so it pays to go with the WJ200-075LF.  The newer Hitachi VFD whihch is the SF-P1 series one would need to go with their 10 Hp (46A) P1-00460-LFUF which is rated 15.5A derated for single phase which is about the same as the WJ200-055LF.  Price of the WJ200-055LF is around $560, WJ200-075LF is around $680 and the P1-00460-LFUF around $725. Using a DC choke can help reduce the input current and fusing requirements, and on some VFD's like the Yaskawa the derating is only valid when used with a DC buss choke. There are a number of different variables to consider and one needs to go off of your motor amps and the VFD output amps for the specific operating conditions. Yaskawa is also one of the few VFD manufactures that offers a native single phase input 5 Hp model (CIMR-VUBA0018FAA), but have also used their 3 phase input (10Hp, 40A) CIMR-VU2A0040FAA derated for this size motor/lathe. I used both with installs on this size lathe.








						WJ200-055LF
					






					www.driveswarehouse.com
				











						WJ200-075LF
					






					www.driveswarehouse.com
				











						P1-00460-LFUF
					

P1-00460-LFUF: Variable Torque Hitachi 15 HP, 11 kW, VFD




					www.driveswarehouse.com


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## BladesIIB (Mar 10, 2021)

mksj - thank you for adding the true expertise here on VFD sizing.  Will truly help some folks out!


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## Cubmadein49 (Dec 14, 2022)

BladesIIB said:


> My PM 1440TL arrived on Friday and I spent the weekend getting the machine in place, cleaning off all the rust preventative and finishing all the VFD wiring.  Took the whole weekend and I put together a video of the process from truck delivery, using a forklift and rollers to get it in place, all through clean up, and an overview of the wiring for the VFD.  Check out the video on YouTube - 3 days of work in 35 minutes.  Hope it will help someone with their planning process.  I spent weeks planning for the deliver to ensure I had everything in place.  Also spent about 3 weeks learning about the VFD an getting the enclosure side of it built and ready before the lathe arrived.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have the same lathe and vfd you do. What size wires did you use for the 24 volt control wires


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## mksj (Dec 15, 2022)

You can check the manual, I usually use 18, 20 or 22AWG. It only caries a few mA of current so the wire size is more for strength then capacity for the signal cables. You should terminate the VFD control wires with crimped ferrules that insert into the VFD terminals. If the wires are more than 3-4 feet, I use shielded cable, the ground shield is only temrinated at the VFD ground screw. Motor cable I use 12AWG, the specification is a minimum of 125% of the motor current rating (stock motor draws around 14A 3 phase). Motor cable if shielded needs to have the shield and ground terminated together at both ends of the cable, and be sure to insulate the shield mesh/wire. Use a high quality nylon insulated crimped terminals at both ends.

WJ200 VFD control wires 20AWG stranded wire






VFD Power and motor connections with ground


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## WobblyHand (Dec 15, 2022)

mksj said:


> You can check the manual, I usually use 18, 20 or 22AWG. It only caries a few mA of current so the wire size is more for strength then capacity for the signal cables. You should terminate the VFD control wires with crimped ferrules that insert into the VFD terminals. If the wires are more than 3-4 feet, I use shielded cable, the ground shield is only temrinated at the VFD ground screw. Motor cable I use 12AWG, the specification is a minimum of 125% of the motor current rating (stock motor draws around 14A 3 phase). Motor cable if shielded needs to have the shield and ground terminated together at both ends of the cable, and be sure to insulate the shield mesh/wire. Use a high quality nylon insulated crimped terminals at both ends.
> 
> WJ200 VFD control wires 20AWG stranded wire
> View attachment 430031
> ...


I like the idea of using wire ferrules, good idea.  Really don't like direct screw contact on stranded wire.  Now off to find some.  Also like those green connectors, what is the p/n or valid search term for them?


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## Firstram (Dec 15, 2022)

Mark, how are you numbering/lettering the heat shrink?


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## Cubmadein49 (Dec 15, 2022)

WobblyHand said:


> I like the idea of using wire ferrules, good idea.  Really don't like direct screw contact on stranded wire.  Now off to find some.  Also like those green connectors, what is the p/n or valid search term for them?


Thanks, this information will be very helpful.


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## mksj (Dec 15, 2022)

I crimp the ferrules, then use a label maker that has heat shrink tube cartridges. I had previously used a standard label maker tape but the labels always seemed to fall off over time. All my wiring is color coded, so one can always determine the connections.

You can buy the ferule crimper and ferrules through multiple sources. I usually buy the orange (22AWG) and white (20AWG) ferrules in bulk (German manufacturer) but that standard assortment kits are fine. I use locking fork terminals at the VFD terminals end, ring terminals for the motor connections as well as all grounds. Either double shell crimps, or 3M heat shrink type. You do not want to use vinyl insulated terminals, nylon/heat shrink style is much better. You need to use a decent quality terminal crimper, with specific anvils for the type of terminal you are using.

HSC8 6-6A Hexagon Crimper


			https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Self-adjusting-Hexagonal-AWG23-10-End-sleeves/dp/B00H950AK4/ref=sr_1_47
		



			https://www.amazon.com/Ferrules-Sopoby-Insulated-Terminal-Electrical/dp/B06XCX8FMZ/ref=pd_rhf_d_se_s_pd_crcd_sccl_2_5/139-9255959-4175634
		


Nylon insulated double crimps copper alloy, the steel/vinyl types are crap in my experience.
3M, T&B (Sta-Kon) RC10-10FL,12-10 AWG Nylon Locking Fork Terminal #10








						Thomas&Betts(Sta-Kon) RC10-10FL,12-10 AWG Nylon Locking Fork Terminal #10 QTY:50 786210887531 | eBay
					

; Copper; Tin; Nylon. New, pictures are of the actual item. Wire Size : 12-10 AWG. Insulation Material : Nylon. Insulation Type : Nylon. Connector Type : Fork. Shape : Fork. Type : Fork Tongue.



					www.ebay.com
				











						3M MH10-14FLK Locking Fork Terminal Heat Shrink 12-10 Yellow 1/4" Stud 10-Pack    | eBay
					

3M MH10-14Yellow Heat Shrink Insulation. Marine quality. This item fits 1/4" studs. Listed below is a chart that you can use as a guideline. This chart is to be used as a guideline only. We do not take responsibility for any information provided.



					www.ebay.com
				



3M®, Molex, T&B - 12-10 AWG #10 Stud Nylon Insulated w/ Grip Ring Terminal








						13-10-NB Nylon w/Insulation Grip Ring Terminals Yellow 12-10 AWG #10 Stud 100EA  | eBay
					

The nylon insulation provides relief from vibration that can cause the wire to fail prematurely. WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including lead, which is known to the State of California to cause cancer.



					www.ebay.com
				











						Molex 19073-0113 12-14 AWG Ring Terminal Nylon Insulated Yellow #10 Stud 10 Pack 7447139938904 | eBay
					

Yellow Nylon Insulation. Marine quality. This item fits #10 studs. Not the exact size you will be receiving. Listed below is a chart that you can use as a guideline. This chart is to be used as a guideline only.



					www.ebay.com
				




FYI, the input power wire size to the VFD must be at least 125% of the rated input of the VFD, regardless of what the output amps is set to and/or using it in a derated mode. The WJ200-075LF specifies #6 wire on the input power connections. With fusing or a breaker, there is also a difference in the sizing amperage rating/type if you use a DC buss choke. With this size VFD (WJ200) with single phase input driving a 5Hp motor, I usually do not use a DC choke, but it depends on the VFD manufacturer and what they specify with the appropriate deratings.


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## B2 (Dec 15, 2022)

Hi @BladesIIB 

Nice install and video!  Thanks for sharing.    I am always surprised that folks do not put the RPM display in the front panel.  It will fit just fine and reduces the wire clutter.   I managed to put a lot of displays (RPM, Revolution count, potentiometer meter) in my PM1440GT front panel but it required creative spacing. Here are a couple of pictures:


B2 said:


> picture





B2 said:


> adding a counter to my VFD converted PM1440GT




 From a safety stand point having your Power On-Off switch on the wall behind and above the lathe would be a concern for anyone shorter than you are.  One basically has his belly hanging over the lathe when the power is being turned on to the VFD etc.  You could put a switch for this off to the side of the lathe.

WRT to patents.  I have a number of them and I have yet to see one that gets awarded that did not cost at least $10k plus the "maintenance" fees. One of mine I also filed in Japan and Korea and just the translation fees were over $25k.  You certainly want to file as a "small entity" (person or business) to try to lower the costs of the maintenance fees.  Most of my patents cost a lot more than this.  This is only the beginning.  The real cost is incurred when you try to enforce them against a big company!  Their are a number of "tricks" in patent filing and if you want to talk about it you can message me. I am not a lawyer, but I have a lot of experience... .both good and bad.  You can file a provisional application for a couple hundred dollars which will get you protection for a year and allows you to make a disclosure... while to finish up your concepts, get things in order, and get help/financing in preparing the final application.  You can write one specification, but file for multiple patents.... which seems to be a good thing to have done when it comes to enforcement.   You can file things called continuation patents, divisional patents, etc. but there are timing requirements for this.  By the way, most patents are pretty much worthless, so be sure to do a really good job of finding all of the prior art (patents, products, literature both US and foreign) before you file and include all that you can as references.  Pointing out how your invention solves the problems of other prior art, especially prior art that is really close to your invention, helps make your patent much stronger.  

Good luck,
Dave L.


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## Winegrower (Dec 15, 2022)

I too have some experience in the patent field…I hold 5 in energy and have assigned a number more in computer storage and internet devices.  For those of us hobby machinists, it’s extremely unlikely that anything we think of has not been covered by prior art, most likely by Perfessor Von Fustenberg in 1825 or so.  It’s unlikely you could sell to a big company…most are very wary of unsolicited proposals and if they were to talk to you would probably have you sign that they are not constrained in any way and may have thought of this themselves in any event.  Every other path has big expensive pitfalls, so be careful.


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## BladesIIB (Dec 26, 2022)

Cubmadein49 said:


> I have the same lathe and vfd you do. What size wires did you use for the 24 volt control wires


Apologies for the delay. Looks like @mksj gave you the info. He helped me select wire as well. I used an 18gauge 8 strand for mine. Here is a link to what I purchased. 


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Southwire-...m-Communication-Cable-White-50ft/163860696416


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## BladesIIB (Dec 26, 2022)

B2 said:


> Hi @BladesIIB
> 
> Nice install and video!  Thanks for sharing.    I am always surprised that folks do not put the RPM display in the front panel.  It will fit just fine and reduces the wire clutter.   I managed to put a lot of displays (RPM, Revolution count, potentiometer meter) in my PM1440GT front panel but it required creative spacing. Here are a couple of pictures:
> 
> ...


Appreciate the feedback on the switch. The lathe has a safety shut off on the front so easy access to that for anyone for sure. As for the tach I guess I like where it is for the easy viewing when the lathe is running vs looking at the front panel?  Just my thought on it. As for the patent, I was able to secure one for my design. Fun process, not sure I would do it again but glad I did this one.


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## BladesIIB (Dec 26, 2022)

Winegrower said:


> I too have some experience in the patent field…I hold 5 in energy and have assigned a number more in computer storage and internet devices.  For those of us hobby machinists, it’s extremely unlikely that anything we think of has not been covered by prior art, most likely by Perfessor Von Fustenberg in 1825 or so.  It’s unlikely you could sell to a big company…most are very wary of unsolicited proposals and if they were to talk to you would probably have you sign that they are not constrained in any way and may have thought of this themselves in any event.  Every other path has big expensive pitfalls, so be careful.


Good insight. I was able to get the patent and enjoyed the process and learning. Not sure I would do it again but glad I did this one.


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## Winegrower (Dec 26, 2022)

BladesIIB said:


> Good insight. I was able to get the patent


Congratulations, Blades!   That’s a good achievement in any event, and they definitely look good framed.


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## Cubmadein49 (Dec 26, 2022)

BladesIIB said:


> Apologies for the delay. Looks like @mksj gave you the info. He helped me select wire as well. I used an 18gauge 8 strand for mine. Here is a link to what I purchased.
> 
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Southwire-...m-Communication-Cable-White-50ft/163860696416


Thanks for the reply. Could you help me with the potentiometer size and the number of the foot brake switch you used.


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