# Buffalo Forge No. 15 Manual



## javie (Sep 16, 2019)

My first post here. I picked up a nice drill press over the weekend and need some help with it. I've been to Vintage Machinery and looked through all of the publications they have tied to Buffalo Forge, there are a ton of bulletins and maintenance manuals with parts lists but not a single 'Owner's Manual' that talks about operating the press. Would anybody here happen to have one? I've requested one from Buffalo Machine Tools but haven't heard back from them yet. The belt that is one this appears to be a late model and is on way too tight and there is absolutely no way to move it from one pulley size to the next. Forgive me, but I cannot seem to figure out how to adjust the belt tension. Any help with that would be greatly appreciated.

Also, there appears to be a chuck removal collar which is a knurled collar just above the chuck with 4 opposing holes in it. I'm guessing this is to break the seal on the taper for chuck removal but I do not have a 'tool' to turn it and I don't want to bugger up the knurling with a large channel lock pliers. Any ideas on running it out to remove the chuck?

Thanks.


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## benmychree (Sep 16, 2019)

Pictures?  A drill press would not necessarily need a manual, anyone working in the trade would know how just looking at it.  You do not state what sort of belt it is, I assume probably a vee belt?  On machines with vee belts there is usually a device to move the motor in or out to change speeds and tension the belt, with some, you just spring the belt over the pulley edge while slowly turning the pulley.  Again, a picture would help.


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## benmychree (Sep 16, 2019)

Here is the manual and parts list; I see that the motor is mounted on round rods that enter into holes at the back of the head casting, there would be a clamp somewhere so they could be adjusted for belt length or changing speeds; here is the manual:


			Buffalo Forge Co. - Publication Reprints - Buffalo No. 15 Drill Press - Maintenance Manual and Spare Parts Catalog | VintageMachinery.org


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## javie (Sep 16, 2019)

Thank you. Unfortunately that isn't the operating manual. I heard back from Buffalo Machine Tools today and they wanted $85 for a hard copy of one of those. I did look through the pics on VintageMachinery and apparently the previous owner replaced the two spade bolts that lock the two round stock bars with hex (Allen) bolts. Thanks for the input and pointing me in the right direction.


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## benmychree (Sep 16, 2019)

An operating manual is quite unnecessary for such a simple machine; did you see that the knurled collar above the chuck is used to both retain and remove the chuck?  It says you use a pin spanner to turn it.  Unless you need to remove the chuck for repair, there is no reason to remove it.


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## javie (Sep 16, 2019)

Simple to one, might not be so simple to another. I haven't worked with these before and may have bit off more than I can chew to do the restoration - that is where you smart guys come in...thanks for the help.


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## javie (Sep 16, 2019)

Here are a couple of very 'before' pics. One shows the motor mount locking nuts, it appears that they are broken off and will need extraction.


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## brino (Sep 16, 2019)

Nice stout machine!

Please keep posting pictures of your progress and any other questions you have.
I'll poke around look for a manual but no promises.
For some things a manual from a smilar machine could useful.

Welcome to the group!

-brino


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## brino (Sep 16, 2019)

If you haven't seen them, there are a couple other threads here:

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/unusual-looking-buffalo-15-drill-press.64937/

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/buffalo-no-15-drill-press-restoration.42362/

-brino


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## brino (Sep 16, 2019)

Ozark has an inexpensive manual:
https://ozarktoolmanuals.com/machin...achine-drill-press-instructions-parts-manual/
that looks like what you want.
(...and it looks like the same one is also on ebay)

and there's another rebuild thread here:
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/...ory/restoring-1940s-buffalo-15-deluxe-160414/

-brino


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## Choiliefan (Sep 17, 2019)

Turn the chuck collar with a dowel pin or rod.  The chuck can be gripped with the chuck key as you turn the collar.
It appears you are missing the quill return spring.  I tried to order a couple of them from Buffalo back in the 80's during some major blizzard.
Was told they couldn't process orders so small yet they mailed them to me immediately FOR FREE.
Have always loved that company and currently have a #18 which is runs smooth as silk.


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## javie (Sep 22, 2019)

Thanks for all the input, I managed to get it broken down and will snap a few pics of that next time I'm in the shop. Ms. Silva at Buffalo Machine Tools is hooking me up with an old-style bell belt guard, too!

I had to 'easy out' the two 1/4-in bolts used to adjust the belt tension and will replace those with stainless versions. First attempt removing broken bolts - nothing but net...

My next quest is to figure out how to remove the metal tag, which appears to be riveted, from the drill head without damaging it and figuring out how to reinstall it after painting.


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## francist (Sep 22, 2019)

There’s a very good chance that what you’re thinking are rivets are actually drive screws. Kind of a combination of a rivet and a screw with a really shallow helix. See pic






There are various methods of extracting them, but I find my best success comes from using a sharp chisel just underneath the head of the screw and gently prying upwards. They release fairly easily once you get them started. And, once you get the head clear of the tag a little, you can sometimes grab the head with a good vise grip and gently twist it out. If you’re careful (and successful) you can reuse them, otherwise you can buy new ones from good hardware suppliers. Search for “drive screw” and you should get some matches.

Alternatively,  if you have access to the back side of the casting, you can often find the small hole and drive them out from the back, but that’s not always possible depending on the casting.

-frank


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## javie (Sep 23, 2019)

francist said:


> There’s a very good chance that what you’re thinking are rivets are actually drive screws. Kind of a combination of a rivet and a screw with a really shallow helix. See pic
> View attachment 302519
> 
> 
> ...



Great, thank you Frank. I'll definitely give this try first.


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## javie (Sep 23, 2019)

brino said:


> Ozark has an inexpensive manual:
> https://ozarktoolmanuals.com/machin...achine-drill-press-instructions-parts-manual/
> that looks like what you want.
> (...and it looks like the same one is also on ebay)
> ...


Wow, the Ozark Tool Manuals location is like 4 miles from my house!


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## javie (Oct 20, 2019)

I now have this bad boy completely apart and all of the small intricate bits (bolts, nuts, handles, etc...) shining like new. Next is to tackle the cast iron table, base, head, and collars. I bought some 3M Scotch-Brite Radial Discs for my bench grinder and those things are just awesome! I picked up the 80 grit and 1 micron versions, yellow and light green, respectively. The 80 grit removes surface rust pretty quickly without sending wire missiles everywhere or gouging the item I'm trying to clean up. The 1 micron puts a nice shine on the surface after that.

I was thinking about using some aluminum-looking paint on the knurled steel handles, but they look really good as-is. I need to coat them with something to keep from rusting if left bare, suggestions??? Same thing with the table and base tops...

I know it isn't period-accurate, but I really like the look of those restored Wilton vises in the Rustoleum Hammered Verde color. I know the Rustoleum site says you don't need primer, but I've heard good things about POR15 as a base for metal. Anybody used the POR15 and then top-coated with Rustoleum?


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