# Need help selecting slitting saw setup



## wachuko (Jan 19, 2022)

I am having a hard time trying to select a slitting saw arbor and saws for it.  To use in my milling machines.

Can someone recommend an arbor and saws to go with it?  I am not kidding, it needs to be an idiot proof recommendation...  Meaning, if a link to the actual arbor and saws is possible, that would be best.

Only thing that I know is that I would like it to be so the arbor is not huge/thick.  I have seen a few videos of people regretting getting one that is too thick and it takes away from the cutting capacity of the blade.

R8 arbor
And most commonly used saw blade recommendations...

I do not have a project for them... just want to start with something...


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## davidpbest (Jan 19, 2022)

wachuko said:


> I am having a hard time trying to select a slitting saw arbor and saws for it.  To use in my milling machines.
> 
> Can someone recommend an arbor and saws to go with it?  I am not kidding, it needs to be an idiot proof recommendation...  Meaning, if a link to the actual arbor and saws is possible, that would be best.
> 
> ...


What quality and price level are you looking for?  Saw blade recommendations depend a lot on what material you're cutting, how deep you need to cut, and how thin the kerf needs to be.


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## wachuko (Jan 19, 2022)

davidpbest said:


> What quality and price level are you looking for?  Saw blade recommendations depend a lot on what material you're cutting, how deep you need to cut, and how thin the kerf needs to be.



That is why I would like a recommendation of the most common (if that even exist) used... 

Cutting tool steel, aluminum... maybe later I will experiment with stainless steel, but not for a year or so... 

price wise... less than 150.00 for the arbor if that gets me something good...


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## Flyinfool (Jan 19, 2022)

I bought a cheap Enco 3 piece set of arbors that has served me perfectly for more than 20 years now. As for saws there are so many types, thicknesses and diameters and arbor sizes. that you are much better off just buying as needed for a job at hand. No matter what you get it will be a bit to small in dia and/or a bit to thick for what you need at the moment and you will have to order one anyhow.

If I were to do it again, I would just make my own arbors, they are not rocket science.

One feature you want to watch for is how far the collar extends below the blade. A tall one can have clearance issues with your work piece or vice.


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## davidpbest (Jan 19, 2022)

This is a universal R8 arbor that will hold a variety of arbor hole diameters.   I am not going to recommend slitting saw blades unless you have a specific application.  This is one tool area where loading up on saw blades prospectively is a bad ideal.  Wait until you have a specific need and then post here.









						TTC VAB-56 R8 Slitting Saw Arbor
					

Select the accuracy that meets your needsApplicationsFor mounting small saws where an arbor is required.FeaturesFits standard collets and chucks.Accepts saw blades with 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 7/8" and 1" hole size.Arbor screw: 5/16"-24Hex key: 3/16"Rust resistant black oxide finish.




					www.travers.com


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## davidpbest (Jan 19, 2022)

You might benefit by watching these two videos:


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## mmcmdl (Jan 19, 2022)

They are easy to make . You have to know what size bore is in the cutters first though .


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## wachuko (Jan 19, 2022)

davidpbest said:


> This is a universal R8 arbor that will hold a variety of arbor hole diameters.   I am not going to recommend slitting saw blades unless you have a specific application.  This is one tool area where loading up on saw blades prospectively is a bad ideal.  Wait until you have a specific need and then post here.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is the one that I do not want.  Takes a lot of the surface area from the blade… that is what I meant from looking for something not that wide at the saw blade end


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## wachuko (Jan 19, 2022)

davidpbest said:


> You might benefit by watching these two videos:


Okay, will watch in about an hour… thanks


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## mmcmdl (Jan 19, 2022)

wachuko said:


> That is the one that I do not want. Takes a lot of the surface area from the blade… that is what I meant from looking for something not that wide at the saw blade end


You could probably make a holder in 10 minutes .   I just found a ship load down the basement , all specialty cutters . They do make R8 shank and straight shank holders . The issue with the R8s , the large nut on the bottom reduces clearance . Doesn't matter with a bigger blade .


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## davidpbest (Jan 19, 2022)

wachuko said:


> That is the one that I do not want.  Takes a lot of the surface area from the blade… that is what I meant from looking for something not that wide at the saw blade end


Then you're going to have to be more specific as to the diameter of the arbor hole in your slitting saw blade.  When you have more information about intended use, you will get more specific recommendations.


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## davidpbest (Jan 19, 2022)

You are unlikely to find an R8 slitting saw arbor with less that 1.25" head diameter unless you make one yourself.  If you can live with a straight shank, there are all kinds of sizes and head diameters available, but you need to chuck it in an R8 collet or an ER collet chuck.  Here are some that are available - pick your poison.  









						McMaster-Carr
					

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




					www.mcmaster.com


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## wachuko (Jan 19, 2022)

davidpbest said:


> You are unlikely to find an R8 slitting saw arbor with less that 1.25" head diameter unless you make one yourself.  If you can live with a straight shank, there are all kinds of sizes and head diameters available, but you need to chuck it in an R8 collet or an ER collet chuck.  Here are some that are available - pick your poison.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I must admit that I have no idea what I am talking about…

I asked for an R8 slitting saw arbor….  When in fact, I meant a straight shank!!!  Goodness… apologies…

I meant something along these lines


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## WobblyHand (Jan 19, 2022)

The pictures at the top of the McMaster look like a Sierra American part.  https://sierraamerican.com/


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## wachuko (Jan 20, 2022)

davidpbest said:


> You might benefit by watching these two videos:



Great videos.  First half of the first one gave me a lot of information.  Second was more targeted to making my own.  Not doing that.  But what he made is exactly what I am looking for... 

First application would be to cut a narrow slot for a clamp on the tailstock to mount the inexpensive tailstock DRO... 



Flyinfool said:


> I bought a cheap Enco 3 piece set of arbors that has served me perfectly for more than 20 years now. As for saws there are so many types, thicknesses and diameters and arbor sizes. that you are much better off just buying as needed for a job at hand. No matter what you get it will be a bit to small in dia and/or a bit to thick for what you need at the moment and you will have to order one anyhow.
> 
> If I were to do it again, I would just make my own arbors, they are not rocket science.
> 
> One feature you want to watch for is how far the collar extends below the blade. A tall one can have clearance issues with your work piece or vice.





mmcmdl said:


> They are easy to make . You have to know what size bore is in the cutters first though .





mmcmdl said:


> You could probably make a holder in 10 minutes .   I just found a ship load down the basement , all specialty cutters . They do make R8 shank and straight shank holders . The issue with the R8s , the large nut on the bottom reduces clearance . Doesn't matter with a bigger blade .



I have seen a few... Blondihacks had one that I also watched... 






I am just not ready to make my own.


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## mmcmdl (Jan 20, 2022)

I just found a brand new holder last night . It's for a 1" bore I believe . I have my BPs and don't need this one .


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## wachuko (Jan 20, 2022)

mmcmdl said:


> I just found a brand new holder last night . It's for a 1" bore I believe . I have my BPs and don't need this one .



Would be a good one for me to start with... I can then find smaller ones later.  Private message sent.


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## mmcmdl (Jan 20, 2022)

I'll send you a pic in a while . Enjoying the snow falling with a coffee at the moment . Need any snow ?


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## wachuko (Jan 20, 2022)

mmcmdl said:


> I'll send you a pic in a while . Enjoying the snow falling with a coffee at the moment . Need any snow ?


 I am good... 56°F here this morning... this is cold enough for me... but let me get some coffee...

Enjoy the view!


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## wachuko (Jan 20, 2022)

davidpbest said:


> You are unlikely to find an R8 slitting saw arbor with less that 1.25" head diameter unless you make one yourself.  If you can live with a straight shank, there are all kinds of sizes and head diameters available, but you need to chuck it in an R8 collet or an ER collet chuck.  Here are some that are available - pick your poison.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ordered these... 




and with the one from Dave, I should be set...

Now to select a few saw blades...


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## mmcmdl (Jan 20, 2022)

So , this thing came out of the never used box I emptied out a while back . Never got around to sorting thru it yet . But anyway , it IS for a 1" bore slitting saw , has a .750 straight shank and is still covered in the original factory oil !   Someone on here bought a few of the smaller arbors a while back , not sure who though any more . They call these stub arbors FWIW .

The white death is coming down pretty good here also . We may get 4" or so , and I don't have to go out in it .


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## WCraig (Jan 20, 2022)

wachuko said:


> That is why I would like a recommendation of the most common (if that even exist) used...
> 
> Cutting tool steel, aluminum... maybe later I will experiment with stainless steel, but not for a year or so...
> 
> price wise... less than 150.00 for the arbor if that gets me something good...


I'm in the same boat as you--I don't have any slitting saws and I think I want a couple of 'general purpose' blades to get me started.  Tom Lipton (oxtoolco) did a Youtube video a few years ago that provides a decent introduction to the topic:






Bottom line, he recommended starting with 2 4-inch diameter blades--a 1/16" and a 1/8" thick--to cover 90% of common uses.  He didn't specify an appropriate tooth count, however.  In general, however, he says that high tooth counts are for very thin material and lower tooth counts are for deeper cuts.  Just like hacksaw blades.

Craig


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## mmcmdl (Jan 20, 2022)

My Canadian connection ( son ) is sleeping in the next room . He got down from Toronto last night . Him and my daughter are on their way to Alaska this Sat. for 2 weeks . Anyway , I can now load the truck up and get stuff into Canada without the crazy shipping costs .  I'm on the prowl for a Woodland Mills sawmill out of Canada . 






						Portable Sawmills, Bandsaw Mills, & Wood Chippers | Woodland Mills USA
					

Woodland Mills supplies high-quality Bandsaw Mills, wood chippers, trailers, and accessories! Get the equipment to tackle big logs & long hours today!




					woodlandmills.com


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## wachuko (Jan 20, 2022)

WCraig said:


> I'm in the same boat as you--I don't have any slitting saws and I think I want a couple of 'general purpose' blades to get me started.  Tom Lipton (oxtoolco) did a Youtube video a few years ago that provides a decent introduction to the topic:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Watching...


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## WobblyHand (Jan 20, 2022)

I started out by buying a saw blade for a slit I needed to cut.  Found a deal on a 4" diameter, 1/16" thick Niagara slitting saw on eBay.  Discovered I needed an arbor to hold it.  Seems obvious now, but that fact had escaped me!  Tried to make one, (from plans on HM,) and couldn't quite get the plug to fit the bore all the way.  The plug was a perfect fit to the saw - I hit the diameter dead on. Think I know why it flopped, so some day I will finish it.  (Made the arbor _before_ reading the Boring Thread!)  Ended up buying some cheap, ugly, longer than a football field R8 arbor.  The arbor would hit my vise studs, if I got too close to the vise.  So I used a shorter stud.  The arbor did what it needed to do, but it's an awkward long thing with a really long nut.  Really don't like it, but it works.  Will attempt to make some arbors again.  The videos make it seem really easy, but the videographers have the advantage of experience.  Besides, they get to edit off camera!  Hope to do better next time.

I needed a narrower slit for a collet that I made for my DTI.  Couldn't fathom spending $20 for the collet.  Ended up with a small saw (still 1" arbor) at 0.020" thick.  Saw blade cost was well under $20.  Made the collet out of some 3/8" diameter 1144, drilled a 4mm hole through it and cut 4 slits (2 cuts) on each side of the collet.  Works great and use the collet frequently.  

Slitting saws are a great addition to the tool collection.


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## mmcmdl (Jan 20, 2022)

Aukai got quite a few of my cutters not long ago . I kept a few for myself just in case . In case of what , I don't know ?


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## mikey (Jan 20, 2022)

For purchased arbors, Sierra American is very good for a reasonable price. Even better is a Martindale holder. Both have thinner caps to allow better access and they're hardened and ground for accuracy.

I would buy a straight shank holder, not an integral R8, because you often need to move that holder up or down in the collet a tiny bit to get the saw where you want it in Z.

Making your own is the best option but you need to be able to turn pretty accurately. If you're not confident in this, buy one from Sierra American or someone you prefer. 

Saws come with all sorts of sized holes - 1/2" is most common for the thinner blades, 1" is common for bigger saws and 5/8" or 3/4" are also common but the choice of saws may be more limited. Many saws come with key slots that you will probably never use in the thinner saw thicknesses. Keep in mind that the bigger the saw, the more likely it is to spin in the arbor with a heavy cut. For example, a 4" saw with a 1/2" arbor hole is likely to spin when taking a big cut.

Slitting saws are meant to cut to full depth from the start. You do not need to sneak up on the final depth; set the depth and go in one pass. Use a lot of cutting oil. When feeding manually, feed at a rate that allows you to feel a slight resistance to the feed; it will be faster than you think it should be. This allows the saw to cut continuously without binding or chattering. 

Speeds are important for slitting saws and it depends on the material, the size of the saw and number of teeth on the blade. Harder materials, higher tooth count and bigger saw diameter = slower speeds. My preference is to start slow and increase speed as tolerated. You are okay with silver or light amber chips in steel but you don't ever want blue chips as this much heat can ruin the temper of the blade. 

I'm attaching a guide from Martindale that has some really good info.


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## WobblyHand (Jan 20, 2022)

mikey said:


> For purchased arbors, Sierra American is very good for a reasonable price. Even better is a Martindale holder. Both have thinner caps to allow better access and they're hardened and ground for accuracy.
> 
> I would buy a straight shank holder, not an integral R8, because you often need to move that holder up or down in the collet a tiny bit to get the saw where you want it in Z.
> 
> ...


The Martindale catalog is interesting.  Definitely has some good info on using slitting saws.  Saved the pdf.  Thanks for posting it.

Examining the pictures in the catalog for the arbors reveals that they are offering Sierra American arbors.  The shapes, logo and coloring are identical to Sierra American.  The use of the term Vibra-core is identical.  The TIR's are the same.  The shape of the mechanical drawing is nearly identical save for an unspecified length of the plug for the Martindale.  I really do think the photos are Sierra American.  Martindale may have offered special arbors, maybe even custom made, but the ones in the catalog seem to be Sierra American arbors.  This isn't bad, but, did want to point it out.


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## Unlogic (Jan 21, 2022)

I had a hard time finding a slitting saw arbor of good quality for slitting saws with 32mm diameter hole.

So like many other people before me I ended up making one. I used steel from an old hydraulic cylinder piston and it ended up working great for the jobs I've done so far.


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## wachuko (Jan 21, 2022)

Well, I can confirm that this is exactly what I was looking for...




I will order the 4" saw blades next...

And yes, those are Sierra American arbors and the saw blades are from the Malco Saw Company

And these only protrude 1/8" on the bottom... excellent.


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## WobblyHand (Jan 21, 2022)

wachuko said:


> Well, I can confirm that this is exactly what I was looking for...
> 
> View attachment 393184
> 
> ...


Who did you end up buying from?


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## wachuko (Jan 21, 2022)

WobblyHand said:


> Who did you end up buying from?


McMaster-Carr


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## WobblyHand (Jan 21, 2022)

wachuko said:


> McMaster-Carr


 was looking at the arbors there.  Might buy the 1".  The one I have is ridiculously long and gets in the way.  Really restricts usage.


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## mikey (Jan 21, 2022)

Do you guys know that you can stack blades to get a wider kerf? This is especially useful when using the thinner jeweler's saws; just stagger the teeth as best you can. This is why the Sierra American design is so good. It allows you to accurately stack two blades and hold them concentric to the body of the arbor. If you do stack blades, slow down your speed and definitely manually feed it so you can feel the cut.


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## wachuko (Jan 21, 2022)

WobblyHand said:


> was looking at the arbors there.  Might buy the 1".  The one I have is ridiculously long and gets in the way.  Really restricts usage.


Doing the same... the low profile is what I was looking for...  And the only way to get the 4" as those were not available for 1/2" arbor...


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## WobblyHand (Jan 21, 2022)

mikey said:


> Do you guys know that you can stack blades to get a wider kerf? This is especially useful when using the thinner jeweler's saws; just stagger the teeth as best you can. This is why the Sierra American design is so good. It allows you to accurately stack two blades and hold them concentric to the body of the arbor. If you do stack blades, slow down your speed and definitely manually feed it so you can feel the cut.


Didn't know that, but makes lots of sense!  For that matter, didn't know about burying the saw.  Always been a bit scared of doing that.  Have stalled the mill with the saw going in too fast, so have backed off on the feed and taken lighter cuts.  PM25 doesn't have the grunt of a bigger mill, so have to accommodate that.  @wachuko 's mill won't be fazed at all.


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## macardoso (Jan 21, 2022)

Didn't read all posts. I bought a Tormach arbor. Super well made. Holder has no runout. Most saws do have runout.  

3/4" straight shank means this can be used in just about any machine that has a 3/4" collet.









						TTS™ Saw Arbor: 1 in.
					

TTS™ Slitting Saw Arbor. For saws with 1 in. diameter arbor holes.




					tormach.com
				












						TTS™ Saw Arbor: 1/2 in.
					

The TTS Saw Arbor: 1/2 in. is a slitting saw arbor is for saws with 0.5 in. diameter arbor holes.




					tormach.com
				




Slitting saws themselves can be moderately expensive. 

Grizzly sells cheap options starting under $10.








						Slitting Saws
					

Grizzly Industrial, Inc. is a national retail and internet company providing a wide variety of high-quality woodworking and metalworking machinery, power tools, hand tools and accessories.  By selling directly to end users we provide the best quality products at the best price to professionals...




					www.grizzly.com
				




Harvey tool has high end carbide saws upwards of $600





						Slitting Saws
					






					www.harveytool.com


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## WobblyHand (Jan 21, 2022)

macardoso said:


> Didn't read all posts. I bought a Tormach arbor. Super well made. Holder has no runout. Most saws do have runout.
> 
> 3/4" straight shank means this can be used in just about any machine that has a 3/4" collet.
> 
> ...


The Tormach arbors look very nice.  They are in the same price point as the Sierra American arbors.

As for a carbide saw blade, far, far, beyond my pay grade!  I'll have to stick with HSS.


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## mikey (Jan 21, 2022)

WobblyHand said:


> For that matter, didn't know about burying the saw.  Always been a bit scared of doing that.  Have stalled the mill with the saw going in too fast, so have backed off on the feed and taken lighter cuts.  PM25 doesn't have the grunt of a bigger mill, so have to accommodate that.  @wachuko 's mill won't be fazed at all.



I've stacked two blades and taken full depth cuts on a Sherline mill. The trick, if there is one, is to feed manually so you can feel a slight resistance to the feed. You will feel and hear the saw cut. I use both hands to maintain a constant feed rate and use my third hand to lubricate the cut. You do not need to baby a slitting saw if the holder is accurate.

You should also have a splatter shield or wear a shirt you don't mind having a permanent stripe on because I guarantee you that you will be wearing a lot of cutting fluid when you're done.


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## T Bredehoft (Jan 21, 2022)

WobblyHand said:


> PM25 doesn't have the grunt of a bigger mill,



It doesn't have the low RPM, either.  Get much over two inch diameter and the blade speed is too high. A four inch blade would be great, but the slowest RPM would smoke the blade shortly.


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## WobblyHand (Jan 21, 2022)

T Bredehoft said:


> It doesn't have the low RPM, either.  Get much over two inch diameter and the blade speed is too high. A four inch blade would be great, but the slowest RPM would smoke the blade shortly.


That's exactly the problem.  Not geared (pulleyed?) for big blades.  Insufficient torque at these low speeds.  I've had "fun" with my 4" Niagara slitting blade.  The smaller 2-3/8" Malco slitting saw was less of a problem.


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## WobblyHand (Jan 21, 2022)

mikey said:


> You should also have a splatter shield or wear a shirt you don't mind having a permanent stripe on because I guarantee you that you will be wearing a lot of cutting fluid when you're done.


Haha, already learned that the hard way.  Wear an apron whenever I do slitting now.  Slung oil all over my sweatshirt


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## mikey (Jan 21, 2022)

I had one shirt with a cross on it, vertical from a refreshed lathe chuck and horizontal from my slitting saw. It has long gone into the rag pile but I learned, too.


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## woodchucker (Jan 21, 2022)

wachuko said:


> I am having a hard time trying to select a slitting saw arbor and saws for it.  To use in my milling machines.
> 
> Can someone recommend an arbor and saws to go with it?  I am not kidding, it needs to be an idiot proof recommendation...  Meaning, if a link to the actual arbor and saws is possible, that would be best.
> 
> ...


Make your own arbor?  That's what I do.
Look up on youtube, and HM , I am sure you will find some good designs.
you can do a dedicated single size, or make one that handles multiple sizes.
I use a straight shaft. 

sorry, not going to read all the responses, just throwing my 2 cents into the ring.
Been busy.


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## wachuko (Jan 21, 2022)

WobblyHand said:


> Didn't know that, but makes lots of sense!  For that matter, didn't know about burying the saw.  Always been a bit scared of doing that.  Have stalled the mill with the saw going in too fast, so have backed off on the feed and taken lighter cuts.  PM25 doesn't have the grunt of a bigger mill, so have to accommodate that.  @wachuko 's mill won't be fazed at all.


This is why I got the 1/2” arbor with the 2” saw blades…to be able to use those in the G0704…

Still waiting on the VFD for the larger mill…


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## wachuko (Jan 24, 2022)

Got the second order today...


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## WobblyHand (Jan 25, 2022)

@wachuko were your arbors clean inside?  My 1/2" arbor had a lot of swarf in the hole and the screw was full of cosmoline.  Had to disassemble and pull swarf out with tweezers, pipe cleaners, as well as clean out the threads of the screw.  Initially couldn't screw in the screw all the way.  It was kind of disappointing.  After a clean up things were better.  Cap seems looser than I'd expect.  Think I will measure mine along with the bore.  Are the caps on yours a good fit to the arbors?  Is there any play?


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## wachuko (Jan 25, 2022)

WobblyHand said:


> @wachuko were your arbors clean inside?  My 1/2" arbor had a lot of swarf in the hole and the screw was full of cosmoline.  Had to disassemble and pull swarf out with tweezers, pipe cleaners, as well as clean out the threads of the screw.  Initially couldn't screw in the screw all the way.  It was kind of disappointing.  After a clean up things were better.  Cap seems looser than I'd expect.  Think I will measure mine along with the bore.  Are the caps on yours a good fit to the arbors?  Is there any play?


I had to go back to check... it was full of cosmoline/oil... and then I started to clean the inside... Sure enough, there was some swarf, not a lot.


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## WobblyHand (Jan 25, 2022)

wachuko said:


> I had to go back to check... it was full of cosmoline/oil... and then I started to clean the inside... Sure enough, there was some swarf, not a lot.
> 
> View attachment 393709
> 
> ...


Didn't take pictures, but the cosmoline was a little on the tough side to remove.  Had a lot more swarf than that come out!  Like 8-10 times more. Will measure the ID of the bore and OD of the plug.  Maybe it's fooling me, but the cap on mine just doesn't seem to be a snug fit.  I thought it needed to be a snug sliding fit, but maybe that's not true.


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## wachuko (Jan 25, 2022)

I only had the 1” here… the 1/2” is already in the other house, so could not check that one…

When I get to the other house, I will check play and report back


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