# New Millermatic 211 - power plug question



## Skowinski (Aug 23, 2020)

Hi Everyone, just got a 211 and setting up in the new shop, just built.  We had electricians install a 240V 50A circuit running to 3 wall plugs.  They are NEMA 14-50R and the plug on the welder looks like below.

Do I need a different wall receptacle for the welder?  Or can I just plug in and start welding?   Haven't used a wall receptacle exactly like these before, they seem kinda funky.

(edit - some things I'm confident about, but not electrical circuits and plugs....)


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## RJSakowski (Aug 23, 2020)

I don't believe they are compatable  The socket is a NEMA 14-50  and the plug is a NEMA 6-50.


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## markba633csi (Aug 23, 2020)

RJ is correct they aren't compatible.  Not sure which would be the least expensive option- probably changing just one receptacle; plugs can be pretty expensive
Do some web searching before you change anything, find out what the hardware costs
-Mark


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## Aukai (Aug 23, 2020)

I'm hoping you can pull the face plate and swap out the plug for the 6-50. If you have some small stuff to weld the Miller 211 is dual voltage to get you by....


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## Skowinski (Aug 23, 2020)

Thanks everyone, I guess I was hoping for an easy solution, but the plug and receptacle have to match.  

I'll find a new receptacle to match the plug on the welder.  Changing that isn't an option, as it seems it voids the warranty.


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## RJSakowski (Aug 23, 2020)

Skowinski said:


> Thanks everyone, I guess I was hoping for an easy solution, but the plug and receptacle have to match.
> 
> I'll find a new receptacle to match the plug on the welder.  Changing that isn't an option, as it seems it voids the warranty.








						HUBBELL HBL9367 AC Receptacle NEMA 6-50 Female Black 250-Volt 50 Amp
					

HUBBELL Female Receptacle NEMA 6-50 Black RTP, Single. Rated for 250-Volts, 50-Amps, 2-Pole, 3-Wire, Single-Phase. Straight Blade Receptacle. UL, CSA.




					www.stayonline.com


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## Barncat (Aug 23, 2020)

Can you just make a foot long pigtail with the different plugs on each end? Then you can use any of the outlets in your shop.


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## Aaron_W (Aug 23, 2020)

Barncat said:


> Can you just make a foot long pigtail with the different plugs on each end? Then you can use any of the outlets in your shop.


 
This is what I would do. I made a 25 foot extension cord for my welder it isn't hard, you just need to put a plug and receptacle to match your wall and welder.


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## matthewsx (Aug 23, 2020)

Definitely make an extension cord with appropriate gauge wire. Measure to the farthest point you think the welder will be from a plug and use that as a guide for length. Obviously a 100' cord isn't a good idea but 25' shouldn't have too much amp drop and will be mighty handy in the future.

John


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## Skowinski (Aug 23, 2020)

I really like the idea of making up a short (20 ft. or so) extension, great thinking!


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## markba633csi (Aug 24, 2020)

Here's an outlet:





						Leviton 5374-S00 50 Amp, 250 Volt, Flush Mounting Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Grounding, Black, 1-Pack - - Amazon.com
					

Leviton 5374-S00 50 Amp, 250 Volt, Flush Mounting Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Grounding, Black, 1-Pack - - Amazon.com



					www.amazon.com


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## Saguaro Slim (Aug 24, 2020)

Went through the same issue - the contractor said it was easier to pass electrical inspection if the wall socket was for a clothes dryer.
He came back and changed the wall socket to match the welder plug.


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## 682bear (Aug 24, 2020)

The power cord is so short on the 211 that you will want an extension anyway probably... I made up a 10' extension for mine. I should have made it longer, but was using what I already had available.

-Bear


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## DavidR8 (Aug 24, 2020)

Saguaro Slim said:


> Went through the same issue - the contractor said it was easier to pass electrical inspection if the wall socket was for a clothes dryer.
> He came back and changed the wall socket to match the welder plug.



I wonder how the type of outlet would have any bearing on passing inspection? 


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## erikmannie (Aug 24, 2020)

DavidR8 said:


> I wonder how the type of outlet would have any bearing on passing inspection?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Maybe an inspector would consider a clothes dryer to be less of a (fire) risk than a welding power supply.


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## Aukai (Aug 24, 2020)

Would this work?
Amazon


*NEMA 14-50P to 6-50R 240V 50 Amp Welder Dryer EV Charger Compact Power Cord Adapter Generator*




Miady 25ft 50AMP Welder Extension Cord, 8 Gauge Heavy Duty Industrial NEMA 6-50 Welding Machine Cord with Lighted End, ETL Approved


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## Skowinski (Aug 24, 2020)

Aukai said:


> Would this work?
> Amazon
> View attachment 334666
> 
> ...



Now that looks like the easiest solution yet - no need to dig out the old wall outlet and wire a new one in.  I like it!


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## Aukai (Aug 24, 2020)

Just check with the Gurus here to get their blessing. All I know about electricity is, it wants to shake your hand, and if you let the smoke out things won't work.


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## Papa Charlie (Aug 24, 2020)

They are not hard to covert. the 14-50 uses the Neutral and the 6-50 does not. What prevents you from just plugging the welder in is the size of the prongs don't match the receptical. While it may fit in, it is not the right way to do this and could cause problems.





You can wire or buy an adapter


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## pontiac428 (Aug 24, 2020)

I build pigtails and adapters as needed.  As long as the wires and receptacles are the correct amperage capacity (you'll want 10 ga. for up to 50 amps) and all your connections are good and tight, you'll be good to go.  The only wires you need are your two phases and a ground (for safety, not the circuit).

I prefer to standardize my plugs for 220v stuff.  Make 'em all the same, and nothing gets screwed up.  Since the three-prong setup covers up to 50A, that's always been my choice.  Twist-lock is nice and compact, but is only good for 25A or so.

Another tip is for inspections.  If you are having an inspection, you have to run the neutral whether you want to pay for the extra wire or not.  If you're not being inspected, you can run regular 10/2 and re-flag the white as a red at the ends.  This is barely legal in inspection jurisdictions anymore, but the NEC still allows for it and it will save you some cash if you're skipping paying city hall.


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## mksj (Aug 24, 2020)

Normally I would get a welder extension cable and change out the male end to a 4 prong plug with no neutral connection. But they sell adapters at reasonable cost per what Aukai indicated. Adapters/pigtails allow one to use the extension cord on various different machines with different plug configurations. Just beware  of the current ratings of the equipment and cord/breaker. The breaker is sized to the wire, so if you have an 8AWG wire and bring it into a machine with smaller gauge wire with no fusing/breaker it wouldn't be pretty if there was a short. In these circumstances I bring 8AWG to the disconnect switch and to the breaker fuse which would permit a smaller gauge after it. On 50A I would use 8AWG.





						PLIS NEMA 6-50P to 14-50R WIth Handle 250V 50 Amp 1.5FT Welder Welding Dryer EV Charger Power Cord Adapter Adaptor Connector - - Amazon.com
					

PLIS NEMA 6-50P to 14-50R WIth Handle 250V 50 Amp 1.5FT Welder Welding Dryer EV Charger Power Cord Adapter Adaptor Connector - - Amazon.com



					www.amazon.com
				








						Amazon.com: ONETAK NEMA 14-50P to 6-50R 240V 50 Amp 4 Prong Male Plug to 3 Prong Female Receptacle Generator Welder Dryer EV Charger Power Cord Adapter Connector: Computers & Accessories
					

Amazon.com: ONETAK NEMA 14-50P to 6-50R 240V 50 Amp 4 Prong Male Plug to 3 Prong Female Receptacle Generator Welder Dryer EV Charger Power Cord Adapter Connector: Computers & Accessories



					www.amazon.com


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## pontiac428 (Aug 24, 2020)

Who conducts the full-load testing on the shipped-from-China plug adapters, anyway?  They couldn't possibly come with a certificate.  Nope, I think I'll pass, better off making my own adapter pigtail out of rated components.  At least I'll know that everything is tight.


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## Saguaro Slim (Aug 24, 2020)

DavidR8 said:


> I wonder how the type of outlet would have any bearing on passing inspection?


The county has a few electrical inspectors that aren't the sharpest tools in the drawer. We added the garage as part of our residential remodel, if the  receptacle  didn't look like a clothes dryer or a range, it potentially "wasn't right"...


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## DavidR8 (Aug 25, 2020)

Saguaro Slim said:


> The county has a few electrical inspectors that aren't the sharpest tools in the drawer. We added the garage as part of our residential remodel, if the receptacle didn't look like a clothes dryer or a range, it potentially "wasn't right"...



Thanks 
That’s kinda scary because I wonder what kind of nonsense they are passing. 


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## Papa Charlie (Aug 25, 2020)

DavidR8 said:


> Thanks
> That’s kinda scary because I wonder what kind of nonsense they are passing.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Mostly a lot of gas or hot air.


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## tq60 (Aug 25, 2020)

Our shop is wired with older style dryer outlets for commin 240 vac stuff as they are found at yard sales.

Compressor has the above.

That is a range outlet and be thankful as it has everything you need.

2 hots, neutral and safety ground. 

For anything that needs to plug in make "adaptor cords", simple extension cord with male that fits outlet and female that fits device.

Insure cord suitable for device. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


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## westerner (Aug 25, 2020)

matthewsx said:


> Definitely make an extension cord with appropriate gauge wire. Measure to the farthest point you think the welder will be from a plug and use that as a guide for length. Obviously a 100' cord isn't a good idea but 25' shouldn't have too much amp drop and will be mighty handy in the future.


Much easier to move the welder to the project, than vise versa......


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## Aaron_W (Aug 25, 2020)

I did mine a couple months ago so a little hazy on the details but I set it up for 50A I think 8GA wire even though it is on a 30A circuit. I have a Miller 220, the TIG and MIG both top out under 30A but if I stick (unlikely I will ever do so at max amps) it can go just a bit more. Going with the heavier wire gives just a bit less resistance and leaves me the option of using it with a bigger welder in the future although I would have to add a heavier circuit.

Your 211 should not draw more than 30A as it is essentially the same as the MIG side of my 220.


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## Saguaro Slim (Aug 25, 2020)

Papa Charlie said:


> They are not hard to covert. the 14-50 uses the Neutral and the 6-50 does not. What prevents you from just plugging the welder in is the size of the prongs don't match the receptical. While it may fit in, it is not the right way to do this and could cause problems.
> 
> View attachment 334692
> 
> ...


I just finished up a 20' 10/3 extension cord to get the plasma cutter out the back door of the garage. I buzzed out the cord before I plugged it in, then checked voltage. Both ends are NEMA 6-50 style, as is the wall receptacle. Since the garage is fed from the main house panel, neutral and ground are connected in the panel, so I get 125V between G and X or Y, right? I get 250V between X and Y.


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## Flyinfool (Aug 26, 2020)

I stretched the 10 ft cord on my HTP MIG200 welder to 25 feet, the original cord was 10GA the add on was 8ga SEOOW and I made a 50 foot extension cord using 6ga SEOOW. Max draw of the welder is 30A at 240V. All of my outlets are 6-50 because for years that was the standard "welder outlet" and what came on the end of my first stick welder.


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## Aukai (Aug 26, 2020)

This is my 100 amp separate feed TIG welder circuit, with a 50 amp plugin next to it. So if my wife turns on a light while I'm welding at max output the house circuit will trip, I only have 100 amps available. 200 amps is digging a trench, and changing to 4" conduit for underground utilities.


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## Papa Charlie (Aug 26, 2020)

Saguaro Slim said:


> I just finished up a 20' 10/3 extension cord to get the plasma cutter out the back door of the garage. I buzzed out the cord before I plugged it in, then checked voltage. Both ends are NEMA 6-50 style, as is the wall receptacle. Since the garage is fed from the main house panel, neutral and ground are connected in the panel, so I get 125V between G and X or Y, right? I get 250V between X and Y.



Correct.


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## Papa Charlie (Aug 26, 2020)

Aukai said:


> This is my 100 amp separate feed TIG welder circuit, with a 50 amp plugin next to it. So if my wife turns on a light while I'm welding at max output the house circuit will trip, I only have 100 amps available. 200 amps is digging a trench, and changing to 4" conduit for underground utilities.



That plug must have set you back a bit. I played that game in my garage in our last house. If I was running anything of any size in the garage, and the wife would have a heavy load from too many appliances running at one time, I would pop the breaker. Did not make her happy when that would happen.

When we get our new property, I plan to have at least 200amps from the utility, 100 for house and 100 for shop. Don't know what the impact, financially will be to go above that and if I would use that much more in the shop at any one time. Basically assume lights (15 amps), compressor (15 amps), heater or AC (20 amps) and one machine (30 amps) at any given time. Rough guessing. Haven't planned it out much farther than that. But now that you got me thinking about it.


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## Flyinfool (Aug 26, 2020)

Back when I bought my house it had a 120V 30A SERVICE coming in (NOT a typo) for a 4 bed, 2 full bath house. 40 years ago a Common service was 220V 60A I paid the extra for a 100A, now 40 years later I sure wish I had gone bigger. We have popped the main a few times. BUt back then there was not a lot of electric gadgets to plug in. If I were doing it now I would seriously consider bigger than 200A. Like it or not electric cars are coming and will need to be fed.


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## Aukai (Aug 26, 2020)

The way I found out I needed to rewire the garage:
I was using a 7" diamond cut off wheel on my grinder, and it popped the circuit breaker 3 times, I switched to a 4 inch grinder, and the job took an hour longer. When I went in the house my wife told me she needs a new blow drier, her's kept turning off, and on


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## General Zod (Aug 26, 2020)

I've studied the formulas within the NEC regarding welders.  The duty cycle of a welder is what [sometimes] permits using conductors smaller than would otherwise seem necessary for a resistive load operating at 100% Duty cycle.    This is why [some] welding machines themselves have conductors smaller than they would otherwise seem to need.  My TIG welder when operating at 350A only consumes 50A of 240V AC  current, but the cord coming from the welder sure isn't 6/3.  10 awg conductors inside the cord going into the machine.  Why? Because the duty cycle is about 35% at that level.  When the welder 'cools off' (should the thermal overload be exceeded), so do the conductors supplying power to the machine. 

This is where the I1eff amperage rating comes into play.  As I've mentioned before, the I1eff is the _calculated _value that solely relates to permissible down-sizing of conductors due to the welder's duty cycle. Hypothetical example, if I1eff is 20A, it doesn't matter that the I1max (peak current draw) is 50A.  You are permitted to downsize the conductors (if you _wanted _to) to 12awg. This is an extreme example where the welder would have a very, very short duty cycle actually pulling 50A (perhaps 8-10% duty cycle). Most welders have an I1eff rating somewhat close to their I1max, but it all depends on the duty cycle and the peak amperage draw while welding at full capacity.

The downside of using the permitted smaller conductors is that even though they handle the current for the allotted duty cycle just fine, they exhibit more voltage drop than larger diameter conductors.


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## ACHiPo (Aug 26, 2020)

Aaron_W said:


> This is what I would do. I made a 25 foot extension cord for my welder it isn't hard, you just need to put a plug and receptacle to match your wall and welder.


+1 I have one for my welder, and one for my mill.


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## ACHiPo (Aug 26, 2020)

Aukai said:


> This is my 100 amp separate feed TIG welder circuit, with a 50 amp plugin next to it. So if my wife turns on a light while I'm welding at max output the house circuit will trip, I only have 100 amps available. 200 amps is digging a trench, and changing to 4" conduit for underground utilities.


Solar and a big PowerWall?


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## AllenV (Aug 30, 2020)

My solution to plugging my new Millermatic 211 into my shop with NEMA L14-30P receptacles was an 18-inch adapter cord.  Here is a link to similar one with your plug ends.

search amazon for  "Nema 14-50P to 6-50R heavy duty # AWG8 STW 50 Amp Plug to50 amp (welder) socket adapter cable"

Thought I'd offer this even though preference was stated above for DIY.

BTW, I don't think the 211 uses more than 20A.  See the chart in section 4-2 of the manual.

BTW again,  I bought a UL-listed 10 ft  NEMA L14-30P extension chord as well.  My thinking is that most of the time the 211 is quite near a wall receptical and I'd rather not be tripping over a bunch of extra power cord.   When I am in the far corner I can add the 10 ft extension.


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