# Help me choose some depth micrometers



## ARC-170 (Sep 5, 2021)

I have it narrowed down to 3 sets so far. Prices are total with any shipping, etc.:

*1. Starrett #449 $58*
Older set, looks pretty good, nothing engraved on the tool
I've never used bladed depth mics; any advantages/disadvantages, etc.?



*2. Mitutoyo $75*
These appear to be new. I can't find a number on them.



*3. Lufkin $48*
An older set, cheapest of the 3. Comes with more rods.



I'm a hobbyist in case that matters. I've found myself needing a depth mic on occasion and thought I'd see if I could pick up a used one.


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## Cadillac (Sep 5, 2021)

All three are good #3 has more range so it might be better for you. All are quality brands.


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## woodchucker (Sep 5, 2021)

I have the lufkin, it's a good set. BUT I wish that it had a ratchet thimble. It's hard to tell when you have bottomed out.

It takes a little getting used to. If the MIT has a ratchet, I would go for the MIT.


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## Grandpop (Sep 5, 2021)

The 3" vs 6" depth rods depends on the size of work you are most likely to encounter. I have a Starrett 6" non-rotating blade on a centered 4" base, and love the extra capacity even if seldom needed. While I prefer the blades, they will bend if you are not careful and strike something. Treat them with care, and they are great.

The non-rotating (flat) blades are great for checking narrow slots, and I highly recommend non-rotating blades/rods vs rotating ones, as I get a much better 'feel' to my measurements with them.

One other possibility is an offset base. Think I only could have used that maybe twice over the years, so I like the centered base.


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## mmcmdl (Sep 5, 2021)

I like that cute little Starrett set . I have a Starrett 6" set and a Starrett 12" set I bought while an apprentice . Haven't had the need to use them since 1999 . That green calibration sticker sure does look familiar , those mics aren't in Md. by chance ?


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## ARC-170 (Sep 5, 2021)

mmcmdl said:


> I like that cute little Starrett set . I have a Starrett 6" set and a Starrett 12" set I bought while an apprentice . Haven't had the need to use them since 1999 . That green calibration sticker sure does look familiar , those mics aren't in Md. by chance ?


Neither Starrett set is in MD. Do either of them have a ratchet?


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## ARC-170 (Sep 5, 2021)

Thanks for the replies so far. Are the prices reasonable?


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## projectnut (Sep 6, 2021)

Personally I'd be tempted to go for the Mitutoyo in that it appears to be newer.  It has the ratchet thimble and a greater range than the Starrett.  A word of caution though.  That set appears to be one listed as an auction.  In addition to the bid price there's also a $35.00 shipping and handling fee.  Sometimes auctions get out of hand near the end of the timeframe.  The current price is about as high as I would go.  In fact the price right now is a bit stiff for an unknown model.  

As for the calibration sticker I think it's a standard format used by most calibrating companies.  I have outside micrometers that were purchased from the shop I worked in, and others that came from a shop in Milwaukee Wisconsin that have the same sticker. 

Having said that there's nothing wrong with the Lufkin set either.  I have both depth and inside micrometers, and a planer gauge made by Lufkin.  They all work fine and are just as accurate as my Starrett or Brown & Sharpe micrometers.  They always seem to be a good value if you're not hung up on the name.


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## ARC-170 (Oct 1, 2021)

I ended up missing the boat on all of these, but I got one just like #1 (Starrett #449) for about $120 shipped. It's actually really nice. Anyone know how I would go about calibrating it?


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## mattthemuppet2 (Oct 2, 2021)

you can get square gage blocks with a hole in the middle, those would work very well if calibration is needed. They come up on eBay from time to time.


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## AmericanMachinist (Oct 10, 2021)

mattthemuppet2 said:


> you can get square gage blocks with a hole in the middle, those would work very well if calibration is needed. They come up on eBay from time to time.


Maybe use regular gage block (if already available) and just mic right up to the edge?   Or even use a known-spec 123 block if its the best on hand?    To get pretty close for hobbyist use, not certified for critical work.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Oct 10, 2021)

For sure those would all work. To be honest unless they've been hammered on or are rusty they'll probably be fine as is. Those holey gauge blocks are the bomb for this though


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