# My new lathe



## jaded13640 (May 6, 2014)

I just picked up this on Sunday. 

It's a really nice little machine. The ways are perfect. This may be an older machine but it appears it hasn't been used much. 

It didn't come with a book. So I know almost nothing about the machine. If anyone has any documentation that they could post I'd greatly appreciate it.

I got the lathe, the table on wheels, the box of tools and all the gears for 550 bucks. I wish it had a bigger chuck but it'll do. That's one of the things I'd like to learn about, what chucks will work and what's available for it. 

Wadayathink?

Wayne


----------



## Don B (May 6, 2014)

Very nice.... Congratulations...! I think I have some craftsman manuals I have a look in the morning.)


----------



## CluelessNewB (May 6, 2014)

Check out the Vintage Machinery web site of manuals and catalogs.  Check out both the Craftsman and Atlas sections:

Craftsman:
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=222&tab=3

Atlas:
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=51&tab=3


----------



## cazclocker (May 6, 2014)

Congratulations! You found a good machine at a good price.


----------



## jam (May 6, 2014)

Congratulations nice find  looks good now all you need is the time to use it 
looks like my shop to much to do . 
                                                     nice find man have fun      :thinking:  what can we make 

I have some tool holders I am going to sale 2 Armstrong 1-s 1 Armstrong 1L and one that I don't know what it is 
all with a bit to small 4 my lathe  if you nee some send me a massage
  jamace  
I hope I am not breaking any Forum rules if I am delete it  
	

		
			
		

		
	








I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk
Thomas A. Edison


----------



## george wilson (May 6, 2014)

The chuck is appropriate for a light lathe of that size. I never had but a 5" Union chuck of light weight design when I owned my first lathe: a 12" Sears Atlas. It had tapered roller bearings. Does yours? I'm not an Atlas person.


----------



## jaded13640 (May 6, 2014)

I don't know. That's my problem. I can't even find an identification tag on this thing. I know absolutely nothing about it other than it's a lathe.I have a couple of pistons that had the skirts get smacked when the rods came apart. Other than the skirts, the very bottom part of the pistons being slightly out of round their still good. It wouldn't take much cutting to make them round again. And since that area of the piston doesn't see compression or much load I'm fairly comfortable with taking a light cut to clean them up. I may be able to turn the jaws around and use the chuck that's on the lathe now. If the 5 inch chuck that's on it now is about as big as should be run on it then I guess that's that. Where might I be able to find some identifying markings on this lathe? Again, so far I haven't even been able to find a tag or serial number on it to be able to identify it.Wayne


----------



## Mister Ed (May 6, 2014)

Nice looking lathe. I just took that same craftsman motor (with blue center) off my Logan.


----------



## jaded13640 (May 6, 2014)

The craigslist ad said it was a 5" craftsman atlas lathe. I assume the 5" part meant the chuck. But other than having used lathes, I really don't know much about them. The ones I used in college were large ones you'd see in a machine shop. The ones in the machine shop I worked in briefly were about the same size. About 8 feet long had about a 12" chuck.

Until a few months ago when I bought my mill I'd never owned my own piece of tooling before. So far the only thing I've used the mill for was to drill 2 holes in a piece of channel stock that I used as an engine support so I could drop out cradle with the transmission and leave the engine suspended in the body. Since then it's been sitting with a tarp over it.

One of the riser posts for my hoist had a substantial dent in the machined area that dropped into the hoist's leg and wouldn't go in without being hammered in which of course meant it had to be hammered back out. I tried to clean it up with the bench grinder once. It didn't work and I never bothered to try again. Yesterday I chucked it up in the lathe and turned it down a little and it fits great now. I didn't take any pics of the project because I didn't have the camera out in the shop with me.

So, what about the 9" lathe makes it 9"? It's the the maximum swing between the center to the table/ways?

Wayne


----------



## 12bolts (May 7, 2014)

Lathe sizes are usually listed as max dia. (or radius if you are looking at an English spec machine) they can swing at the spindle. This will not be what is able to pass over the cross slide, ie a 9" lathe will spin a 9" disc at the headstock but not a 9" round bar between centres.

Cheers Phil


----------



## jaded13640 (May 7, 2014)

andrew80 said:


> Craftsman 12" lathe.
> 
> Check out the link below for more information. Tag should be at the tail stock end of the bed or on the backside of the bed casting.
> 
> http://www.lathes.co.uk/craftsman/page2.html




So from what I read it appears the the ID tag does not necessairly reveal the date of manufacture. Just the dimentions and specs. To some degree I can see that it would narrow it down.

So it looks like, from what I could understand of the write up, my lathe could be no newer than the early 60's?

Mine does have power cross feed. At least that's what the seller told me. I used the feed for the "X" but have not attempted to feed it in the "Y" direction. 

Based on the pictures of my lathe, can anyone give me an estimate of it's age? I read the write up three times and still can't quite tell what catagory mine falls into as far as age range. 

I'll search for an ID tag tomorrow so I can start the process of trying to locate a manual. 

Wayne


----------



## dans4570 (May 9, 2014)

This is funny to me, The lathe I picked up 3 weeks back looks to be a carbon copy of yours. except mines still covered in grease and grime.

Dan


----------



## Shadowdog500 (May 9, 2014)

That looks like a really nice lathe.  Congratulations!

Chris


----------



## jaded13640 (May 9, 2014)

I found the ID tag. 

It reads 101.07403

If anyone can help identifying it, ie what year and can help me find a manual I would GREATLY appreciate it!

Thanks,

Wayne

PS, I figured out how to run the cross feed. You pull the knob out under the tool holder...DUH! LOL


----------



## jaded13640 (May 9, 2014)

CluelessNewB said:


> Check out the Vintage Machinery web site of manuals and catalogs.  Check out both the Craftsman and Atlas sections:
> 
> Craftsman:
> http://www.vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=222&tab=3
> ...



Like I said in my last reply I found the tag on the lathe.

The number is 101.07403

I checked that site and under both brand sections there's no 101.07403.

Any other information resources would be greatly appreciated.

I'd like to be able to date the machine and find an operating manual for it.

I know how to use a lathe, I have cut threads in the past but it's been many years and this machine isn't what you would call automatic or maybe better put, changing gears manually is necessary to cut threads. There's a chart inside the door for the gears that tells you how to do it, if you are familliar doing it. I may never have to cut a thread again but a manual to tell me some things about how to use THIS lathe would be very cool.

Thanks,

Wayne

PS, this machine is in amazing condition. Given that I paid $550 bucks and a performance intake manifold that I paid 50 or 75 bucks for, does it sound like a good a good deal? Crappy deal? Awesome deal? What would this machine in extremely good condition be worth roughly?

Thanks again,

Wayne


----------



## hukcats1 (May 9, 2014)

Nice lathe. You and I will learn together. The LOML just found me one last weekend. I plan to start cleaning mine this weekend. Congrats!


----------



## Marco Bernardini (May 10, 2014)

$550???

:greenwithenvy:

For that price here we can't even get a 2nd hand DeWalt hammer drill with couple of broken bits!!!
Positively I need to visit the US… with a freight ship.


----------



## jaded13640 (May 10, 2014)

hukcats1 said:


> Nice lathe. You and I will learn together. The LOML just found me one last weekend. I plan to start cleaning mine this weekend. Congrats!




Fortunately in my case no cleaning needed. It was as clean as the day it as new when I picked it up. It was used very infrequently but kept covered and oiled. Used just enough to keep everything working right but not enough to wear anything. It's the perfect find as far as an old machine goes. I thought for sure I'd find signs of wear. When I first saw it I thought it was too clean. I figured it was a mess and he cleaned it up to sell. But then everything worked good. And there weren't any signs of rust pits. You can clean rust off but you can't clean off the pits rust leaves in the metal. And no matter how much you clean there's always going to be little spots you can't clean if it's really greazy. It's spotless. Every little area you look that grease would have been blown into if they power washed it and nothing. It just didn't get overly greasy and was kept dry.

I was curious as to it's value only because it's such a light duty lathe. I'm fine with it being light duty. I just didn't know how to value it.

Yea, we'll learn together. Who ever finds a manual first will have to share it with the other.

Do you have any pics up of yours?

Wayne


----------



## jaded13640 (May 10, 2014)

I saw this on ebay,  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atlas-Craftsman-12-metal-lathe-/231223592893?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

It would appear I did pretty good on price. Especially since it was only about a half an hour from my house. 

So far no luck on a manual.


----------



## jaded13640 (May 10, 2014)

I just saw this manual for old time manuals. The picture shows my lathe but the model numbers don't match. 

I read the article about how the model numbers worked but I guess I didn't understand it. 

What do you guys think? Would you think this is the manual I need or is it possible they put a genearic illustration on the cover? That doesn't seem likely but I'm just stuggling to understand how the cover could have my lathe on it but the numbers don't match...by a lot.

What do you think?


----------



## CluelessNewB (May 10, 2014)

> I checked that site and under both brand sections there's no 101.07403



You didn't look real hard:

Here is the parts list from the Vintage Machinery web site:

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/3398.pdf


If you look through the Craftsman documents you can filter by "Publication Type"  interesting things to try are* "Lathes"* and* "General Line Catalogs"*  the 1951 "General Line Catalog" shows a very similar lathe.  I'm not a Atlas/Craftsman guy so I'm not familiar with the minor details.  I believe the catalog numbers and the model numbers don't match so you may need to do a little bit of work on your own to narrow down the year.  You may never know exactly.  

Both Sears (Craftsman) and Atlas sold a book titled *"Manual Of Lathe Operations and Machinists Tables"*  this is essentially the operators manual for that lathe.  They are usually available on eBay.  The South Bend "How To Run A Lathe" is similar and older PDF versions are available free online although a later version might be more useful.


----------



## jaded13640 (May 10, 2014)

Wow, thanks clue. I actually did look pretty hard but at first I didn't notice that you could seperate lathes from grinders etc. But then I did go back and seperate then and wasn't able to find my number in the lathes that came up. 

But, regardless, thanks for the help.

I've got an early job so I can do anything tonight but I'll get at it tomorrow.


While I'm thinking about it, my table, or better put, the ways are like new but are completely dry. Should they not be oiled? If so with what? Would a quick spray of WD-40 when parking it and a good wiping up before use do the trick? I'm sure this isn't the proper section for this question so if you'd rather I start a thread or search the threads where ever they are that would be fine too. What section would that info be in?

Thanks,

Wayne


----------



## CluelessNewB (May 11, 2014)

I don't have an Atlas/Craftsman but I use Mobil Vactra #2 Way Oil on the ways and Mobil Velocite #10 for all bearings on my Logan.  

Both are available from Enco http://www.use-enco.com in gallon jugs (will last a very long time!).  

Enco has free shipping codes available on a regular basis so make sure you check this thread for discount codes before ordering anything:  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/forumdisplay.php?f=195


----------



## Terrywerm (May 11, 2014)

jaded13640 said:


> While I'm thinking about it, my table, or better put, the ways are like new but are completely dry. Should they not be oiled? If so with what? Would a quick spray of WD-40 when parking it and a good wiping up before use do the trick? I'm sure this isn't the proper section for this question so if you'd rather I start a thread or search the threads where ever they are that would be fine too. What section would that info be in?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Wayne



This is a fine place to ask your question about the ways of your lathe.

Yes, the ways should be oiled, and there is a product made that is designed just for that purpose, called way oil.  Mobil Vactra #2 is a very popular way oil that will work well on your lathe. It is available through machine tool suppliers like Enco, MSC, Travers Tool, etc for about $25/gallon.  Enco currently has it on sale for $18/gallon, and if you spend more than $25, shipping is free this month, but you need to use the discount code of 'MAY25' when you place your order. A gallon of way oil will last you quite a while, so one gallon should be plenty for the time being. No connection to them, just a happy customer.

I have used non-detergent 30W motor oil in the past, which was the oil recommended by the manufacturer of my lathe back in the 40's. That works fine as a spindle oil, but I like the way oil much better.


----------



## jaded13640 (May 11, 2014)

Ok, I'll order some when I can. In the mean time would WD be a good choice to hold me till I get it or no?

Thanks,

Wayne


----------



## CluelessNewB (May 12, 2014)

WD-40 is ok for cleaning but not much for lubrication.  You would be better off with some non-detergent motor oil, they have it at my local Tractor Supply and NAPA auto parts.  Other shiny sign auto parts stores don't usually have it and the dude/dudette behind the counter can't help you unless it's for a make and model car he/she can look up on the computer.


----------



## jaded13640 (May 12, 2014)

You're right about the big box auto parts stores. I call it fast food auto parts.

At this point I'm less concerned with lubrication as I am rust prevention.

I'll get some good oil as soon as possible. In the mean time I don't want the ways to rust.

Thanks,

Wayne


----------



## JR49 (May 13, 2014)

Wayne, at this point, rather than let any rust get started, the WD40 will be fine. Just so you know, it tends to dry out to a sticky film that you will need to clean off before using proper lubes. But hey, all you need to clean it off is fresh WD40! A lot of guys "bad mouth" WD40, but, if used for its intended purposes, it will keep the rust away, while your getting your machine running. Good luck, JR49


----------



## Dranreb (May 13, 2014)

Nice score Wayne, lovely machine, you did well, enjoy...:thumbzup:

Bernard


----------



## jaded13640 (May 13, 2014)

JR49 said:


> Wayne, at this point, rather than let any rust get started, the WD40 will be fine. Just so you know, it tends to dry out to a sticky film that you will need to clean off before using proper lubes. But hey, all you need to clean it off is fresh WD40! A lot of guys "bad mouth" WD40, but, if used for its intended purposes, it will keep the rust away, while your getting your machine running. Good luck, JR49




Yea, probably because it's cheap. I use it all the time. I run it through the fuel system of my methanol injection fuel system on my drag car. It keeps the pump from rusting internally, keeps o rings from drying out, the inner liners of the braided tubing from drying out. It's great stuff. I put it in a squirt bottle instead of buying cans of it to soak rusty bolds in my repair business. Some swear it's junk and you HAVE to use XXX brand. I've never noticed a huge difference between any of them. Blaster seems to work faster for loosening bolts. But if want fast, get the freaking torches out.

When I got this machine it was completely spotless other than the gear train and even it isn't overly greezy. Just properly lubed. BUT it was stored in a very dry environment. My shop has a leaky roof. The tools are under tarps but it's still damp in there. Bare metal will rust. Way oil will collect chips and dirt and so on. If the thing's going to be sitting for nine tenths of the rest of it's life, which is no doubt the case, I can just do like you said, spray it with WD, wipe it down, give it another spray while I'm using it on the rare occasion I do, wipe it down and put a fresh coat on it. I'd love to have a nice dry shop...but I don't. I have what I have and that's not going to change anytime soon. One quart of non detergent oil would probalby last me for years. Using nothing would be tragic.


Bernard, thanks! I knew I wasn't making a bad deal, especially since every thing worked and it was so impecably clean but I didn't know how good of a deal I was actually getting. Which is good because like I said above, this isn't something that's going to get used much. Here and there I run across something and I think "boy, if only I knew someone with a lathe, I could just touch that up and...." but I didn't. Now I do. 

Thanks for all the help guys. I'd say I'll post pics of any projects I do with it but the reality is my projects are spur of the moment and I won't be going inside to get the camera for a ten minute job. So unless I know I'm doing a turning project in advance and bring the camera out with me or it's a big enough project that it's justified...I'm probably not going to be posting many project pics. 

Thanks again,

Wayne


----------



## LindemannT (May 13, 2014)

great score but wanted to mention something on the pistons you are wanting to make perfectly round. depending on what they are out of the skirts on some piston arnt perfectly round they are a bit oval for expansion would hate to see you ruin a good set of pistons


----------



## wa5cab (May 14, 2014)

Wayne,

The Sears illustrated parts manual for the 101.07403 is in our Downloads section under the Atlas/Craftsman/AA folder and the Atlas/Craftsman Lathes sub-folder.  About 2/3 of the way down the first page look for Craftsman Lathe 12 101.07403_27430_27440 12X18-36.pdf.  It also covers the two other models which differ only in having a QCGB.  Just ignore the page on the gear box.

The 101.07403 was made from 1940 (or late 1939) until sometime in 1957.  If the serial number is not on the nameplate with the model number, it should be stamped into the top of the front way near the right end of the bed (the ways are the flat surfaces running the length of the bed at front and rear that the headstock, carriage and tailstock sit on).  It should be a four or five digit number and may or may not have a letter prefix or suffix that is not part of the S/N.  If you can find it, I can probably tell you about what year it was made.  There are a few other files there which are applicable to your machine.

Robert D.


----------

