# Material for new counter-shaft



## JPMacG (Feb 5, 2017)

The counter-shaft of my MFC is pretty messed up.  I'd like to replace it.  The original measures .624 diameter by about 9 inches long.  

What material should I look for?  Would this be suitable?

https://www.mcmaster.com/#8920k175/=168991g


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## Ulma Doctor (Feb 5, 2017)

if you want something easy to machine, 12L14 or 1212 would be sufficient
1018 or 1020 could also be employed but don't finish as nice as the aforementioned free machining steels


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## JPMacG (Feb 5, 2017)

Thanks Mike.  Yes, 12L14 is nice stuff.    I tried it on some other parts and really liked it.


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## mikey (Feb 5, 2017)

Is the countershaft taking a big load? I'm not familiar with an MFC. For shafting, I'm more likely to go for something that is at least semi-hard - 1144, 4140 or something like that. Even drill rod is fairly hard in an annealed state.


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## VSAncona (Feb 6, 2017)

I would use 1045 turned, ground and polished shaft material and be done with it.


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## JPMacG (Feb 6, 2017)

Thanks.   With the harder materials, how would I cut it to length?   I could put an abrasive cut-off saw in my woodworking miter saw.  Is there a better way?


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## mikey (Feb 6, 2017)

A hacksaw or bandsaw works well. These materials are not hardened in the annealed state they are supplied in; they can be hardened with heat treatment. If you can find drill rod in the size you need, it will be ground and sort of polished to a usable state as is. 

Keep in mind that if you have to turn any of these materials, rough slow and finish fast and be sure the work is rigidly supported. Done this way, O-1 will have a very nice finish and 1144 and 4140 will have a smooth satin finish. I normally take skim finish cuts at max speed for these materials.


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## wa5cab (Feb 7, 2017)

JPMacG said:


> Thanks.   With the harder materials, how would I cut it to length?   I could put an abrasive cut-off saw in my woodworking miter saw.  Is there a better way?


JP.,

Most of the materials quoted are still machinable.  A couple of weeks ago, I cut off a piece of 3" diameter 4140 solid round with my trusty old 4X6.


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## cdhknives (Feb 9, 2017)

I used a D shaft (1045 steel) from Mcmaster when I replaced the countershaft on my 10F, but I changed to sealed bearings via turning holders for sealed ball bearings.  Nice flat for set screws, sturdy, no machining except cutting to length, and sealed bearings don't sling grease!

https://www.mcmaster.com/#d-profile-precision-shafts/=16a7oe3


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## JPMacG (Feb 9, 2017)

Thanks everyone.

Yesterday I ordered a 1566 steel rotary shaft (Rockwell C25) from McMaster.   I also ordered a 12L14 shaft, just as a backup in case I have trouble with the harder material.  (I can always use the 12L14 for other projects.)   I also ordered  Oilite bushings and a clamping collar.   I'm turning a new small countershaft pulley out of 6061.  It is almost done - I am waiting to see if the new shaft fits the bore before I take it off the chuck.  The old pulley was wobbly - probably from a previous owner abusing it.


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## JPMacG (Feb 12, 2017)

Finished the new small counter-shaft pulley today.  This is my most ambitious lathe project to date.  I'm pleased with it  - it came out well and was easier than I expected.  Even parting off the 3.25 inch diameter went well.  Below is the new pulley with the original wobbly one.  I think the previous owner must have hammered on the pulley to remove it from the shaft.


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## JPMacG (Mar 8, 2017)

I found time to finish the new countershaft.  The new shaft, sleeve bearings, pulley and collar stop fit together well and run nicely.  I did have to take the parts into work to use their large arbor press to install the sleeves. My little 1-ton Harbor Freight press wasn't enough.

For anyone who might want to do the same, here are the McMaster Carr parts that I used:

Oil-embeded sleeve bearing:  P/N 6391K205
Clamping shaft collar:  P/N 6435K15
Rotary shaft, 1566 steel:  P/N 1346K24


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