# Craftsman power hacksaw question



## Grandtools (Nov 9, 2013)

I just picked up one of those Craftsman hacksaws. It's in real nice shape except for the feed ratchet block. Good ol Sears parts does have it available, and it's only $180. So, since that's about 4 times what I paid for the whole saw, I'm looking for a better source. Has anyone ever replaced one and if so, where did you find it?


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## fastback (Nov 9, 2013)

Is that the aluminum step block that is used to raise the blade on the return stroke?  If so I need one too.  If you find a decent price somewhere I would also be interested.

Paul


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## Grandtools (Nov 9, 2013)

fastback said:


> Is that the aluminum step block that is used to raise the blade on the return stroke?  If so I need one too.  If you find a decent price somewhere I would also be interested.
> 
> Paul



Well, it is the toothed block that relieves the saw on return stroke, but it's not aluminum, It's hardened steel. If yours is aluminum, I can see why you would need one.


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## Privateer (Nov 10, 2013)

Is it an Atlas machine sold under Craftsman? If so, you can contact Clausing, and they might have the part. I've noticed they're not as expensive as Sears for spare parts.

Terry


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## Grandtools (Nov 10, 2013)

Privateer said:


> Is it an Atlas machine sold under Craftsman? If so, you can contact Clausing, and they might have the part. I've noticed they're not as expensive as Sears for spare parts.
> 
> Terry



Yes it was made  by Excel,, which was part of Covel,  and was also later sold as an Atlas 4350 hacksaw. I figured they might have it, but probably still too expensive. I did send Clausing an e-mail, let's see if I get a response.


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## Uncle Buck (Nov 10, 2013)

Grandtools said:


> I just picked up one of those Craftsman hacksaws. It's in real nice shape except for the feed ratchet block. Good ol Sears parts does have it available, and it's only $180. So, since that's about 4 times what I paid for the whole saw, I'm looking for a better source. Has anyone ever replaced one and if so, where did you find it?



I recall my dad having to buy that same block from Sears around 1980. I think the block cost about $80 then.



Grandtools said:


> Well, it is the toothed block that relieves the saw on return stroke, but it's not aluminum, It's hardened steel. If yours is aluminum, I can see why you would need one.



Yup, hardened steel for sure! 



Grandtools said:


> Yes it was made  by Excel,, which was part of Covel,  and was also later sold as an Atlas 4350 hacksaw. I figured they might have it, but probably still too expensive. I did send Clausing an e-mail, let's see if I get a response.



I will be interested in hearing what you are told.


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## fastback (Nov 10, 2013)

Yes it is stainless, my bad.  Mine may be still useable, but has a wear hole on one side at the top.  This may be the reason the weight was removed.

I once had a real old power hack saw with a large flywheel.  I don't remember it lifting on the return stroke.  Is this something that some saws do not have?


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## Grandtools (Nov 10, 2013)

fastback said:


> Yes it is stainless, my bad.  Mine may be still useable, but has a wear hole on one side at the top.  This may be the reason the weight was removed.
> 
> I once had a real old power hack saw with a large flywheel.  I don't remember it lifting on the return stroke.  Is this something that some saws do not have?



Any decent hacksaw has a relief mechanism. The small Kellers don't and some very ancient ones may not. A lot of newer saws used hydraulic relief. One reason I admire those little Craftsman saws is that they have that feature. My Dad & I bought one new from Clausing in the 70's, I think it cost $59 then. Unfortunately we sold it to get a bigger bandsaw.


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## Grandtools (Nov 13, 2013)

Well, got the bad news from Clausing. Part is no longer available, but they did send me a print. Quite a challenge to make. It has .050" ratchet teeth cut on a 6-13/16" radius, then case hardened.  Maybe I'll get ambitious over the winter and try to make one.


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## Uncle Buck (Nov 13, 2013)

Grandtools said:


> Well, got the bad news from Clausing. Part is no longer available, but they did send me a print. Quite a challenge to make. It has .050" ratchet teeth cut on a 6-13/16" radius, then case hardened.  Maybe I'll get ambitious over the winter and try to make one.




I am sorry to hear that. I recall when dad bought that part from Sears for his saw there were vey few left there at that time.


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## talkingmonkey (Nov 13, 2013)

Can you post pic of part and in context.  There must be a way to fabricate/replicate etc.

- - - Updated - - -

Can you post pic of part and in context.  There must be a way to fabricate/replicate etc.

Jeff


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## Privateer (Nov 13, 2013)

Grandtools said:


> Well, got the bad news from Clausing. Part is no longer available, but they did send me a print. Quite a challenge to make. It has .050" ratchet teeth cut on a 6-13/16" radius, then case hardened.  Maybe I'll get ambitious over the winter and try to make one.



That's what of the things I like about Clausing, if they don't have it, they'll give a print so you can make it.

Terry


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## fastback (Nov 13, 2013)

Grandtools, sorry to hear you were not able to get what you wanted, but glad to hear you got the prints.

Good luck on the saw.

Paul


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## Uncle Buck (Nov 13, 2013)

That part you could not get is one of the frequently well worn parts that needs replaced too unfortunately.


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## Mr. Inquisitive (Nov 17, 2013)

Grandtools said:


> Well, got the bad news from Clausing. Part is no longer available, but they did send me a print. Quite a challenge to make. It has .050" ratchet teeth cut on a 6-13/16" radius, then case hardened.  Maybe I'll get ambitious over the winter and try to make one.



I've got one with a ratchet that I haven't been able to get to work. I wonder if an India dressing hone would sharpen it up.


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## Grandtools (Nov 19, 2013)

Mr. Inquisitive said:


> I've got one with a ratchet that I haven't been able to get to work. I wonder if an India dressing hone would sharpen it up.



Did you try sharpening the two  fingers that engage the ratchet block? They often get worn and won't engage.  You could also uses a stone on the ratchet block, or even a fine tooth file. I dressed mine up with a file to take some burrs off.


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## fastback (Nov 19, 2013)

+1 with Grandtools.  I haven't address mine yet, but this seems like the best approach.


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## Mr. Inquisitive (Nov 19, 2013)

Grandtools said:


> Did you try sharpening the two  fingers that engage the ratchet block? They often get worn and won't engage.  You could also uses a stone on the ratchet block, or even a fine tooth file. I dressed mine up with a file to take some burrs off.



Oh yes. I think those were considered "expendables." I got some from Searspartsdirect before everything there became unavailable or prohibitively expensive. My Craftsman power hacksaw is functional but really a terrible disgrace to look at; dirty, broken and brazed-back-together bits. I'm making a suitably wood-butchered mobile base for it, so it can live under my Atlas 10" lathe of awfulness. I mean awesomeness. Probably ought to do a separate post so you can learn from my mistakes.


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## Grandtools (Nov 19, 2013)

Mr. Inquisitive said:


> Oh yes. I think those were considered "expendables." I got some from Searspartsdirect before everything there became unavailable or prohibitively expensive. My Craftsman power hacksaw is functional but really a terrible disgrace to look at; dirty, broken and brazed-back-together bits. I'm making a suitably wood-butchered mobile base for it, so it can live under my Atlas 10" lathe of awfulness. I mean awesomeness. Probably ought to do a separate post so you can learn from my mistakes.



And they wonder why Sears is fading away, there's a good example. Sears used to give good service & reasonable prices. Now they just gouge you any chance they can. I used to love going to Sears, now it's my last choice for sure.


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## Grandtools (Nov 19, 2013)

talkingmonkey said:


> Can you post pic of part and in context.  There must be a way to fabricate/replicate etc.
> 
> - - - Updated - - -
> 
> ...



Here are 2 pics of the part


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## Bcassel (Jan 19, 2014)

I know this thread is a couple of months old, but I am in the final stages of a rehab of one of these, just got off chat with Sears, they started at $180 for the part, the did a "price match" to $139.  Had to say no even at that.

If someone has the drawings, could I get a copy, maybe I can mill one up!


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## fastback (Jan 20, 2014)

I would also like to find a copy of drawing for this part.  It's about all I need to finish my saw.

Paul


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## Restorer (Jan 20, 2014)

Gents,

Looking at the photo, it appears the wear is in the center of the component.  Would it be possible to install a spacer behind it to get the pawl onto good teeth?

Then after that spot wears out, remove the spacer and cut down the width to use the outer teeth.

Just trying to think how a Farmer would fix it with no investment except time.


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## Grandtools (Jan 26, 2014)

The problem with mine isn't so much wear as it is damage. It appears some idiot forced the saw frame down while it was being held up by the ratchet. 
I have the drawing saved in my e-mail, if anyone wants me to send it, just send me an e-mail to lathemill@juno.com, and I'll send it.


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## fastback (Jan 27, 2014)

Grandtools, got the information, thank you.

Paul


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## genec (Jan 27, 2014)

You might be able to clean that up with a checkering file.  20 or 40 lines per inch.


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## Grandtools (Jan 27, 2014)

genec said:


> You might be able to clean that up with a checkering file.  20 or 40 lines per inch.



I already did that with mine and it will probably work except for the area where the tips are stripped off. 
Going to put it back together and try it this weekend.


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## Herbert (Dec 13, 2016)

I know this is old but in case someone has the same issue, the Feed Ratchet Block, 053-047 appears available from ereplacement.com under the Atlas 4350 and/or Craftsman 101.22940 for....are you ready....$205.99.


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## MetalVamp26 (Jan 11, 2021)

Just wondering if anyone has been able to find replacement ratchet feed blocks for the Craftsman 101.22940 hack saw.
I have a machinist who may be able to help. I am talking with him now as to if he can do it and for how much.
Please let me know if you would be interested in one and I will see what I can work out for pricing. I would love to get mine operational. It was a side of the road find and just love the old school tools. I've attached a photo of the part just for clarification. I am sure you know which part I mean, but  posting anyway for any others who may need one or want one as a back up.
Has anyone tried using tool steel tig welding rods? I recently watched a This Old Tony video on YouTube where he put a tool steel edge on a hatchet. There would be a lot of fine filing work but may give life to these old beauties


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## Herbert (Jan 11, 2021)

There is one person who auctions these old unit parts on Ebay and at the moment they have only a cover for the crank-gear and crankshaft.    I was hoping someone would have the dimensions for the block that has the rod to shut the blade off.  I've put in the electrical switch but have hesitated on the block since they came on the Covey model and no one seems to have the dimensions or close up's of any modification.  I was just trying to keep the unit as original as possible.  I tried a part two weeks ago from Ereplacement to make a set of enlarged pins to hold the blade as I want to use a thicker/wider blade for strength but even what they list is no longer available so I'll have to make set which isn't difficult, just trying to make it easier by starting with an original part..


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## Herbert (Jan 11, 2021)

ribbonandlace on eBay.  these are the folks who get parts frequently.
Sears Hacksaw Gear Craftsman Power Hack Saw MAIN GEAR ATLAS HACKSAW


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## phubbman (Jan 12, 2021)

I rebuilt one of those (with the Covel "Excel" badge on it) this past summer.  Nice little saw.  
The lift / ratchet mechanism on mine was ok, but the vise was another story altogether.  At any rate, here is the drawing you're referring to.  It might be worth the while to see what it would cost to have one of these made, then see about the cost to have 10 of them made and have a group buy to bring the costs down.  The first one will be very expensive.  The tenth one, not so much.
Over on the owwm.org site, members will gauge interest in group buys for fabricating commonly needed parts.  This is certainly one of those.
pauh


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## MetalVamp26 (Jan 14, 2021)

I got in touch with a guy I know and his response was "how much is it worth to you?" I told him I have no idea what it would take to make something like that and asked him for a ballpark range and haven't heard back. I have another guy I can ask but he wants to see the part, so I will have to go to my storage unit, remove it and take it from there. If I had enough interest in the part, even people wishing to have a spare I could get a better idea of pricing but a onesy-twosey is not going to be a good representation. 
Has anyone used one of these in their shop? How well do they work out? I have a harbor freight band saw, but I really dig having and using an old schooler when given the chance. If they are not up to par, I may restore and sell it.  Just curious from anyone out there who may have used one of these.


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## phubbman (Jan 15, 2021)

MetalVamp26 said:


> I got in touch with a guy I know and his response was "how much is it worth to you?" I told him I have no idea what it would take to make something like that and asked him for a ballpark range and haven't heard back. I have another guy I can ask but he wants to see the part, so I will have to go to my storage unit, remove it and take it from there. If I had enough interest in the part, even people wishing to have a spare I could get a better idea of pricing but a onesy-twosey is not going to be a good representation.
> Has anyone used one of these in their shop? How well do they work out? I have a harbor freight band saw, but I really dig having and using an old schooler when given the chance. If they are not up to par, I may restore and sell it.  Just curious from anyone out there who may have used one of these.


I like mine.  It takes a little longer to cut than a band saw, but it's less likely to cut off-true.  Metal bandsaws can cut off line if they're not tuned right.
Within its capacity, i think it's a great saw.  Set up the cut, hit the switch, and let it run while you're free to do something else in the shop.  I wouldn't just walk away from any running machine, but this runs on its own, and mine shuts itself off when it's finished with the cut.  It cuts straight, and blades seem to last quite a long time.  If speed is a major concern, such as in a production shop, you will probably prefer the band saw.  Not that this is slow, it's just not as fast as a band saw.

I also like how small it is.  I have a basement shop, and space is a premium.  This rolls right under the bench when not in use.


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## MetalVamp26 (Jan 19, 2021)

phubbman said:


> I like mine.  It takes a little longer to cut than a band saw, but it's less likely to cut off-true.  Metal bandsaws can cut off line if they're not tuned right.
> Within its capacity, i think it's a great saw.  Set up the cut, hit the switch, and let it run while you're free to do something else in the shop.  I wouldn't just walk away from any running machine, but this runs on its own, and mine shuts itself off when it's finished with the cut.  It cuts straight, and blades seem to last quite a long time.  If speed is a major concern, such as in a production shop, you will probably prefer the band saw.  Not that this is slow, it's just not as fast as a band saw.
> 
> I also like how small it is.  I have a basement shop, and space is a premium.  This rolls right under the bench when not in use.


Mine is equipped with auto shut off set up just like my harbor freight band saw too, so I really like that about it. From what I can tell it is 100% complete, just need that damn ratchet block


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