# Sharp Milling Machine Help



## bobby light (Jun 16, 2014)

Have been trying to find a decent Bridgeport J model for quite some time now. Today I ended up with a Sharp-LC HMV Milling Machine. So far it appears to be a clone of the Variable Speed Bridgeport. Machine has minimal backlash, and came with X axis Servo 150 power feed. Also came with an acuright III DRO

I believe it has an R8 spindle taper, but when I looked inside the spindle taper I don't see the little key way for the the collets to slide into. Is that correct? From all my research I don't believe Sharp HMV mills were made with a different spindle. 

Last I was missing the draw bar, but other then that the machine is complete. Can I purchase a draw bar from enco and if so what's the best way to determine size? 

Give me a few and I will get some pics of the machine. It's still loaded on the trailer. Not looking forward to moving it.

The head was swiveled upside down for transport.





I flipped the photo


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## Andre (Jun 16, 2014)

*Re: Sharp HMV Milling Machine Help*

Yes, the Sharp mills (and nearly all knee-mills now) take R8 shank tooling and collets. A drawbar would be a good project if you have a lathe. I believe the R8 shank collets and tooling is 7/16"-20.


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## bobby light (Jun 16, 2014)

*Re: Sharp HMV Milling Machine Help*



Andre said:


> Yes, the Sharp mills (and nearly all knee-mills now) take R8 shank tooling and collets. A drawbar would be a good project if you have a lathe. I believe the R8 shank collets and tooling is 7/16"-20.



Yes I have a few lathes 

SB 13, SB 9 and a SB Heavy 10

So why is there no key way inside the spindle taper for the collet to align with and slide in?

- - - Updated - - -



Andre said:


> Yes, the Sharp mills (and nearly all knee-mills now) take R8 shank tooling and collets. A drawbar would be a good project if you have a lathe. I believe the R8 shank collets and tooling is 7/16"-20.



Id like to get the machine running asap

Figure this is what I need?

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=209-9016&PMPXNO=947840


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## chuckorlando (Jun 16, 2014)

They key's break off. Not really a problem. Our sharps at school are more or less identical to the bridgeports we have. They have r8


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## xalky (Jun 16, 2014)

I prefer it without the key way in there actually.lol  I wouldn't worry about it. Run it....

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk


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## bobby light (Jun 16, 2014)

Thanks for quick replies. It was more of an impulse buy, which I don't like to do when it comes to machinery. For the price it was worth getting this nice machine that will need a little elbow grease to become operational, vs a worn out J head Bridgeport which people want an arm and leg for.

Already have a rotary phase convertor for it, just need to her her moved into the garage. Now I can sell  my clausing 8520.

That table is covered in grease, but doesn't have a single drill or nick in it! Really happy with this machine, even though its an import which goes against all my other US made machinery, but I think this was a better buy vs a J head Bridgeport which would also have cost more money.


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## chuckorlando (Jun 16, 2014)

I love our sharps. Very nice machines. They are new but you can tell right off they are well built


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## bobby light (Jun 16, 2014)

chuckorlando said:


> I love our sharps. Very nice machines. They are new but you can tell right off they are well built



I believe mine said 1984


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## metalmole (Jun 30, 2014)

Hey, seems like I read that when u invert the head like that u need to make sure you re oil the cups good and let the oil get back where it needs to be....


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## bobby light (Jul 1, 2014)

metalmole said:


> Hey, seems like I read that when u invert the head like that u need to make sure you re oil the cups good and let the oil get back where it needs to be....



Seems logical to me. I need to add a good amount to all the cups. Any recommendation on oils to be used for this machine?


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