# What creative ways have you tried to keep Parallels in the vise firmly?



## jlsmithseven (Nov 4, 2017)

I've tried using a small piece of steel and some springs to keep the parallels from moving around inside the vise. However, when I have really long pieces the springs don't compress enough for this to work. Any ideas out there to keep the parallels from sliding around in there?  Thanks!


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## Charles Spencer (Nov 4, 2017)

I just use spring steel bent into a "C" laying on its side to hold both parallels in place.  It works for me.


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## chips&more (Nov 4, 2017)

wavy parallels


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## David S (Nov 4, 2017)

I use the steel shipping banding and bend it like Charles mentioned.  The use banding is free from my industrial supplier.

I also have some pieces of open cell foam that I use in some applications.

David


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## Ed ke6bnl (Nov 4, 2017)

I also have used rubber bands


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## Billh50 (Nov 4, 2017)

I use the banding material method for small stuff and springs for the wider. The springs I use are strong enough to hold them.


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## Bob Korves (Nov 4, 2017)

I often use a slice of neoprene pipe insulation between the parallels.  Or banding material.  Or just swear words...


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## coherent (Nov 4, 2017)

I was always taught to lightly close/snug the vice on the material and then tap the material down snug against the parallels and then tighten the vice. Seems to work well for me and ensures the material is flat against the parallels.


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## Wreck™Wreck (Nov 4, 2017)

https://www.kurtworkholding.com/accessories/parallel_keeper.php

If hundreds/thousands of repetitive parts bolt soft jaws to the vice.


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## royesses (Nov 4, 2017)

Foam rubber or Styrofoam wider than the vise opening.


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## darkzero (Nov 4, 2017)

I've got one of those fancy smancy handy dandy spring loaded parallel separators that I got on sale. It works great but I barely use it. I only use it if I need to make a lot of the same part.

I don't use any springs, aids, etc. I just squirt some #4 way oil (or #2, whatevers close by) on one side of the parallels & "stick" em to the vise jaws. Works pretty damn good for me.


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## Tinkertoy1941 (Nov 4, 2017)

Urethane foam cut 1/4 inch wider that than the part you are holding in the vise.
The 1/4 wider urethane holds the parallels tight against the vise jaws and helps open the vise jaws when the handle is loosened.
 The urethane can withstand the cutting fluids, coolant and the air nozzle when you blow the vise clean with an air hose.
 I save the pieces and use them over and over! No cleanup when you are done.
This has worked for me for fifty years!


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## kd4gij (Nov 4, 2017)

these look interesting 
https://www.ebay.com/sch/magkeepers...mZIAAOxykmZTLQD9&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562


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## BGHansen (Nov 4, 2017)

The machinist I bought my BP riser block from used pieces of the plastic foam used as packing material.  Feels like a polyethylene material.  It crushes pretty well, just like what Tinkertoy1941 described.

Bruce


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## Eddyde (Nov 4, 2017)

Wreck™Wreck said:


> https://www.kurtworkholding.com/accessories/parallel_keeper.php
> 
> If hundreds/thousands of repetitive parts bolt soft jaws to the vice.


It works great!
I have the knockoff version, about half the price.


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## EmilioG (Nov 4, 2017)

Just some oil, like Will posted above. Nothing fancy.  I'm always in a hurry, and the fewer gadgets the better.


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## 4GSR (Nov 4, 2017)

I have a set of Kurt jaws I bought that have little nemite magnets in each jaw for the parallels to stick to.  They do a decent job.  The only dislike I have with them is, steel shavings stick to them when you don't want them to do so.


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## KMoffett (Nov 5, 2017)

I too go for the metal shipping banding for a parallel spacer.  Mic'd it,...amazingly parallel. Can even use it as a custom parallel.

Ken


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## Robert LaLonde (Nov 5, 2017)

Metal shipping band also makes fair constant force springs.  

The most common commercial product appears to be a bar with two pins with compression springs over them and another bar with two holes.  Minimum range of a setup like that can be reduced to zero by making either bar with an offset to accomodate the compressed length of the springs.  
If using soft jaws it would be dead simple to back drill them and press in some neodymium magnets.  (only about .0005 interferrence fit as neodymium mags are fragile)  I say back drill because chips will stick and a smooth surface would be easier to wipe them off of.  I usually maschine a ledge into my soft jaws so parallels are kind of moot with them.


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## Cadillac STS (Nov 5, 2017)

kd4gij said:


> these look interesting
> https://www.ebay.com/sch/magkeepers/m.html?item=202004030593&hash=item2f0860e481:g:mZIAAOxykmZTLQD9&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
> 
> View attachment 245947
> View attachment 245947



I have a set of those. There is a strong magnet in the anodized aluminum parts. Works great


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## derf (Nov 9, 2017)

I use a magazine spring from a Remington 700......W shaped, goes from 3" down to 1/4".


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## jlsmithseven (Nov 11, 2017)

Well I got the magnet holders and I have to say they are pretty awesome. They are totally worth the asking price if you have to constantly worry about your parallels moving. Put these on and forget about it. Great little invention.


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## jlsmithseven (Nov 11, 2017)




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