# COLCHESTER CHIPMASTER



## ARM

Hi Guys
We  are  wanting  to  know  the  exact SPINDLE  MORSE TAPER  on  the  COLCHESTER  CHIPMASTER  Continental  Serial # FCG 7477
thanks  in advance
aRM


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## Senna

According to the lathes.uk site the spindle is bored to take a MT4 taper but was fitted with a hardened sleeve to take it to MT2.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/chipmaster/


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## ARM

Senna said:


> According to the lathes.uk site the spindle is bored to take a MT4 taper but was fitted with a hardened sleeve to take it to MT2.
> 
> http://www.lathes.co.uk/chipmaster/



Hi  Senna
We  had  already  checked  that.
Ours  is  one  of  the  few  last  ones  to leave  the  production  line.
The  Seller  has  just  confirmed  it  is  larger  than  MT 4
So  it  will definitely  be  a  MT 4.5  !!!
thanks  all  the  same.
aRM


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## Senna

According to my serial number reference book your lathe was made in 1980.
The last serial number was 7678 in 1983.


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## ARM

> rcflier said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well, Tony of lathes.co.uk must've written that MT4 -> MT2 after a visit to the pub!
> 
> The Chipmaster has a MT4½, and with it was delivered a short sleeve,
> with MT3 inside. Which matches the tailstock.
> 
> Anyone, who has seen the sales prospect or the manual knows this.
> 
> Cheers
> Erik
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: Arm - have you thought about the collets?
Click to expand...


Hello  there ERIK
Glad  to  see  U  active  here  as well.
Heck man  this  is  a  small  world  indeed.  Thought all  along  that  U  were  based  in  the UK  !!??

At  this  point  in  time  I  really  don't  know  what  to  do  with  this  piece  of  sh.t  that  I  was  stung  with. (Forgive the expletives, I got no decent words  left ~!@#$%^&*()_ )  This  was the real  GATSBY  !! 
There's  so  much  wrong  with  it  that  I  don't  think  I want  to spend  another  bloody  cent  on  it.  It's  just  going  to  be  a  too  costly.  Think  about  it.

The  VARIATOR  seems  like  its  going.
The  MATRIX  CLUTCH  is  also  on  its  way  out.
The  longitudinal  FEED  WHEEL  has  to  be  replaced.  There's  no  readings  on  it.
We  have  to  get  a  5" BACK  PLATE  to  mount  the  CHUCK,  there's  none  at  present.  Can't  do  any  work at  all  !!!
The  rear  SPLASH  GUARD  is  missing,  never  mind  the  CHUCK  GUARD.  
And  the  biggest  disaster,  there's a  huge  ding  on  the  right  side  of  the  BED  just  before  the  CHUCK,  where  most our  work is  going  to  be  done,  which  will  require  complete  re-GRINDING  of  the  BED.  
Not  to  mention  numerous  bolts  and  Nuts  on  the  Hand wheel  Mountings  which  look  really  worn,  if  not  damaged.
With  the  way  we  feel  at  present,  we  just  can't  wait  to  dump  this  piece  of  crap  out  the  workshop.   

Our  new  machine  should  be  arriving  soon,  IA,  so  this  will  definitely  get thrown  out,  RUST  to  ROT,  definitely  not  to  be  caught  by  another  unwitting  Buyer.    

Sorry  to  hang  our  snakes  on U,  we  will  abstain  for  now.  

As  a  matter  of  interest,  our  new  Machine  has  a  MT 5  SPINDLE  BORE  for  which  we  have  already  bought  a Complete  5C  COLLET  LATHE  ADAPTOR, including  the  DRAW  TUBE  and  the  HAND WHEEL  to  go  with,   from  down  under  -  OZ  LAND,  of  all  places !!!  Have  Family  there  who  will  bring  these  items  early  next  month. 
So  we  will  finally  get  to  use  all  our  5C  COLLETS,  LORD  WILLING.

Thanks  all  the  same.  We  appreciate  the  exclusive  Offer.  Those  are  precision  COLLETS  indeed.
LORD  BLESS
aRM


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## samthedog

G'day ARM,

sorry to hear that you were stuck with a lemon. The ding in the bed may be able to be stoned out. Dings are nowhere near as bad as wear over a longer section of the bed.

Also, the variator may come to life if you use the correct oil. It's rare that they are thrashed over the whole speed range. It's usually a problem in one "band" as the wrong oil was likely used and a groove is worn in the contact surface. Failing this, you can change it to VFD easily and this will eliminate the need for the variator.

The matrix clutch probably just needs to be adjusted. These do wear but I have never heard of one being worn out. 

When you say longitudinal feed wheel, which are you referring to in the picture below?




The chuck unfortunately is a d1-3 camlock which can be quite expensive but you can find cheaper alternatives. It's just that the Far East variants are not rated for 3000 rpm so if you use a VFD, you will have to limit the motor to the chuck's max rpm.

As for the splash and chuck guards, these rarely follow the machine. I was lucky to get my machine as complete and in as good condition as it is. I have more info here if you are interested:

http://wanderingaxeman.blogspot.no/search/label/Garage

I hope you manage to iron out the kinks. I want everyone to be happy with their Chippies as I have been very pleased with mine.

Paul.


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## ARM

Hello PAUL
At  the  outset let  me  say  THANKS  for the  response. 
Have  already  eyeballed  the  review  of Your  Chippy  a  couple  of  weeks  ago.  We  were  left  marvelled.  That  is indeed  a  thing  of  beauty,  U  lucky  Man.

The  problem  with  us  is  we  are  neither  trained  machinists,  nor  Technically trained  nor  do  we  have  an aptitude  to  strip  this  beast  and  get  her  back  in  shape.  Period.
Been  a  blue  collar  worker ( pen pusher )  my  whole  life  and  have  only  recently  learnt  to use  my  Lathe as a  Hobbyist.

To  answer  some  of  Your  comments  and  questions...............

U  are  right,  that  ding  can  be  stoned  out  carefully.
The  Seller  did  say  that  he  got  advise  from  U  on  adjusting  the  MATRIX  CLUTCH,  but  he  battled  to  get  it  right  when  he  started  the  machine  for  demo. 
The  VARIATOR  is  working,  albeit  rather  noisily.  Have  also  had  others  say  the  easiest  way  to  go  would  be  via  the  VFD. That  will include  changing  the  motor  as  well.   
The  biggest  wheel  on  the  extreme  Right  of  the  Apron  that  feeds  longitudinally  - is  not  this  one  supposed to  have  the  readings  like the CROSS  SLIDE  WHEEL  ???  
Had  a  supposedly  good  friend (more likely  Fiend ) suggest a  DRO  to  compensate  for  that. 
The  seller  did  give  us  a  5"  ROHM  4  JAW (SELF-CENTERING) CHUCK  with  the  machine,  but  no  BACK  PLATE.
We  checked  already,  CDCO  in  the  States  has  cheap  5"  D1-3  Backplates  which  will  mount  this  CHUCK.  Bison,  which  are  also  good, 3  Jaw  chucks  could  be  had as  well.   
What  next  !!!
Seems  like  there  will  just  be no  limit  to  what  this  beast  will  require to  really  function  at  optimum.
And  it  will require  a  proper  spray  paint  job  to  make  her  look  decent.
Really  need  to  decide  which  way to  go here.
Kindest  regards
aRM


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## buffdan

so sorry to hear of the issues, but perhaps they can be worked out.
Some good folks here to give you advise.

There is also possibility to part it out if you felt machine beyond repair.
Sometimes the parts are worth more than the machine in whole.

We'd like to see pictures!

Take cheer.. one step at a time

Dan



ARM said:


> Hello PAUL
> At  the  outset let  me  say  THANKS  for the  response.
> Have  already  eyeballed  the  review  of Your  Chippy  a  couple  of  weeks  ago.  We  were  left  marvelled.  That  is indeed  a  thing  of  beauty,  U  lucky  Man.
> 
> The  problem  with  us  is  we  are  neither  trained  machinists,  nor  Technically trained  nor  do  we  have  an aptitude  to  strip  this  beast  and  get  her  back  in  shape.  Period.
> Been  a  blue  collar  worker ( pen pusher )  my  whole  life  and  have  only  recently  learnt  to use  my  Lathe as a  Hobbyist.
> 
> To  answer  some  of  Your  comments  and  questions...............
> 
> U  are  right,  that  ding  can  be  stoned  out  carefully.
> The  Seller  did  say  that  he  got  advise  from  U  on  adjusting  the  MATRIX  CLUTCH,  but  he  battled  to  get  it  right  when  he  started  the  machine  for  demo.
> The  VARIATOR  is  working,  albeit  rather  noisily.  Have  also  had  others  say  the  easiest  way  to  go  would  be  via  the  VFD. That  will include  changing  the  motor  as  well.
> The  biggest  wheel  on  the  extreme  Right  of  the  Apron  that  feeds  longitudinally  - is  not  this  one  supposed to  have  the  readings  like the CROSS  SLIDE  WHEEL  ???
> Had  a  supposedly  good  friend (more likely  Fiend ) suggest a  DRO  to  compensate  for  that.
> The  seller  did  give  us  a  5"  ROHM  4  JAW (SELF-CENTERING) CHUCK  with  the  machine,  but  no  BACK  PLATE.
> We  checked  already,  CDCO  in  the  States  has  cheap  5"  D1-3  Backplates  which  will  mount  this  CHUCK.  Bison,  which  are  also  good, 3  Jaw  chucks  could  be  had as  well.
> What  next  !!!
> Seems  like  there  will  just  be no  limit  to  what  this  beast  will  require to  really  function  at  optimum.
> And  it  will require  a  proper  spray  paint  job  to  make  her  look  decent.
> Really  need  to  decide  which  way to  go here.
> Kindest  regards
> aRM


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## ARM

Hi  DAN
Was  anticipating  that  request.........so  here  goes  !!!  These  were  as  supplied by  the  seller.


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## buffdan

Looks like  a pretty clean machine to me.
I cant see the ding in the way you mentioned, or is it a spot just in front of the chuck on  the flat way?
If so, that's where the tailstock would ride, which unlikely would be an issue..

Also you don't need markings on carriage feed wheel, never use those.. too coarse.. 
Likely never had.

Important ones are on cross feed and compound


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## samthedog

Hello ARM, take heart my friend!!! All those issues can be overcome.

The handwheel as others have mentioned has no dial, never has and it actually does not need it.

As Erik has mentioned, the backplate from the chuck can be used for a smaller 4 - 5 inch chuck. The ding seems quite small so it should be no problem to stone out carefully.

The matrix clutch is easy to adjust and there is a plate on the end cover explaining what gap to set it at.

This may be your first lathe so you might not realize what a gem you have. This lathe is VERY capable and since it has a hardened bed will likely have plenty of life left. You also have major rigidity which often can't be had with lathes several times it's weight.

The paint is not an issue at all and is purely cosmetic so leave that until last. 

Take the problems one at a time. I would start with the clutch, since it's just a case of re-adjusting. After the clutch, I would add the VFD. This is not a big job and really only requires moving the motor or creating a counter shaft where the variator would be. Again, not a big job if you know a welder and have access to a lathe. Stoning out the any raised edges of the ding on the bed is a 60 minute task, easily accomplished.

Please don't misread this post as condescending. I prayed and waited years for one of these lathes and can attest to their quality. What you have are opportunities to get to know the machine. Any machine you get will require maintenance and repairs over time. I have never been a machinist either (a teacher and firefighter), and if I can chip through a machine re-vamp, anyone can. Don't focus on the whole machine, just one issue at a time.

However... If you choose to part it out, PLEASE let me know as you have a RAPID tool holder and I have searching for tool holders as I have one also and they are hard to find.

Good luck.

Paul.


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## ARM

buffdan said:


> Looks like  a pretty clean machine to me.
> I cant see the ding in the way you mentioned, or is it a spot just in front of the chuck on  the flat way?
> If so, that's where the tailstock would ride, which unlikely would be an issue..
> 
> Also you don't need markings on carriage feed wheel, never use those.. too coarse..
> Likely never had.
> 
> Important ones are on cross feed and compound


Hi  DAN
That  ding  is  on  the  right side. Will need  take  a separate  pic of  it.

Hear  what U say  about  the  markings. U  Guys  know  better. Do  kindly  give  me Your thoughts  on  working length to specs,  the  different  ways  without DTI's .
thanks  in advance.
aRM


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## ARM

> buffdan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like  a pretty clean machine to me.
> I cant see the ding in the way you mentioned, or is it a spot just in front of the chuck on  the flat way?
> If so, that's where the tailstock would ride, which unlikely would be an issue..
> 
> Also you don't need markings on carriage feed wheel, never use those.. too coarse..
> Likely never had.
> 
> Important ones are on cross feed and compound
Click to expand...


Hello  DAN
Trust U  Guys  had a good  Xmas.
Had time  to take some closeups, rather  more  revealing ones.  That  "ding"  is  just  not  a  "ding".  It  is  more  like  crap,  on  a  Bed.  Sorry  about the  lingo,  but heck  this  thing  is  just  nauseating  us  all  the  more.  Got  a  good  mind  to get  a  pallet  jack  and  dump  this  piece  of  sh.t  out  of  the  workshop  ~!@#$%^&*()P_  U look  at  these  pics  and  tell  me ...........
Compare the last pic of the cross feed  hand wheel which the Seller  originally  sent with  what I  have  now  posted  ~!@#$%^&*()
This  poor  little machine  was just not abused,  it  was  "BUTCHERED"
Period.
aRM

- - - Updated - - -



rcflier said:


> If you don't want to fix the lathe, then of course you should move on. Sell this lathe with a description of its faults
> and point out how the buyer can fix it or get it fixed. But one does learn a lot fixing a machine like that. I suppose
> you have a manual - if not, I'll send you one.
> 
> Hmm, let's look at it one problem at the time:
> 
> The Matrix clutch should be nearly indestructible.
> 
> Like Paul wrote, the variator might be saved - if not, you can always use the original 3 HP motor with a VFD.
> That's what I had planned to do. I planned so much, I bought three of them.:lmao:
> 
> The feed wheel on the apron has no dial - so that's not defective. I have a DRO I plan on mounting. And now they've become rather cheap.
> 
> A backplate - is rather easy to get. It would be much more difficult to get a backplate for a screwed spindle nose. And hey - you can just
> fit the backplate from the enormous chuck that's already there. You do need a 5" or 6" 3-jaw chuck and the original light duty 8" 4-jaw independant
> chuck also. But those are relatively easy to find - I saw a nice cheap Pratt-Burnerd 8" 4-jaw for sale on "homeworkshop" a few days ago.
> 
> I also have no splash guard - I'll put up something attached to the wall. And I took off the chuck guard - it was so ugly. I may get a nicer looking one.
> 
> (I have just bought a PB collet chuck with collet set, 5 QC Dickson tool holders and two backplates. And an ISCAR MWLNR 1616H-06SW insert holder
> will be on its way to me soon (I already have two boxes of inserts). So now I "need" only the tangential toolholder, I've wanted for a long time.)
> 
> Cheers
> Erik


Hello  ERIK
Just  not  worth  the  while  taking  up Forum  space  with  this  piece  of  ~!@#$%^&*()_+
Will  send  U  the  pics  via  PM
The  bed  "ding"  pics  are  here  below.
And  Your  "Friend"  was  the one  who  insisted  we  buy  this  piece of  junk.  
He  only  admitted  (after  we  gave  him  a  damn  good  piece  of  our  mind)  that  he  had  not  seen  this  machine  at  all.  The  audacity  of  the  moron.
And  to  think  we  trusted  in  his  judgement  ~!@#E&U*(@#$%^&*()_+
aRM  
U  look  see  and  revert  what  U  think


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## ARM

These  pics  are  for  ERIK.............
And  I  don't  know  where  all  that  Oil  came  from  on  the  splash  tray  ???
We  did  not  put  it  there  ???

- - - Updated - - -






	

		
			
		

		
	
 Guess  these  are  enough  to make  an  "informed" decision.
aRM


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## ARM

Hi  ERIK
Thanks  for  these  individual  pointers  of  the problems.
Seems  like  if  we  want  to  keep  her we  would  need  get  into  the re-furbishing  business really seriously. 
And  this  little  beast  needs  a  whole  lot  of  going  over.
I  would  love  to  offer  the  QC Toolholders  to  PAUL.
However,  I  only  hope  we  get a  Buyer  who  won't  want  them  in  the  first  place.

Let's  just  play  this  by  ear  and  see  what  gives at the  end of the  day.
Will  even  give  the  prospective  Buyers  Your  details  of  the  COLLET  set.  
There's  sure  going  to be  some  takers, LORD  WILLING.

Take  Care
aRM 






rcflier said:


> Okay Arm.
> 
> Your spindle nose looks as good as mine. Mine may have more small dings on it.
> 
> The ding is annoying - but not a problem in lathe use - if you clean it and fill it with "liquid metal" epoxy or something like that.
> 
> The top (or compound) slide missing one pin is also no great problem.
> 
> The oil is probably seepage from the headstock (or maybe the gearbox) - that has to be fixed.
> 
> The price you paid is the same as I paid for mine, transport included.
> 
> And Brent is not a friend.
> 
> He just wrote me he wanted to buy my 23mm collets. Those I offered you but you wouldn't buy them
> because you didn't buy that Weiler Primus.
> 
> What to do? I have no idea - earlier, when I have been mad at - or dissapointed over - a purchase, I have had to sell it.
> Simply to get it out of my system. And I think you'll end up doing the same. *But before you do that, please offer the QC toolholders to Paul (samthedog).
> *
> And then sell it to someone who will do the work it takes to make it well again. That someone will then have a nice lathe.
> The Chipmaster suffers in the hands of mechanically incompetent people, like the ones before you.
> 
> Cheers
> Erik
> 
> 
> Cheers
> Erik


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## ARM

> rcflier said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Arm.
> 
> You getting into the refurbishing business - I can't really see that before me.
> 
> I can do that - possessing, tinkering and fixing is a large part of the hobby for me.
> 
> But for you the lathe is a tool to produce something, so it's better to cut your losses.
> 
> Don't count on the collet set being available. The brit has returned from his visit.
> 
> Cheers
> Erik
Click to expand...


Hi  ERIK
U right  about most  things  here.  
Starting  with  the  refurbishing -  U  Guys  are  more  practical  in  that  manner  with  more  exposure,  and  as  U  say,  it's  right  up  Your  alley.
And  we  need  cut  our  losses,  to  really  move  on  to  finer  grounds.
Man,  I  am  happy  U  starting  to  smile,  'cos  we  wish U  remain  smiling  all  the  New  Year,  LORD  WILLING.
LORD  BLESS
aRM


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