# How Did You Level Your BP? What Pad Did you use?



## Janderso (Apr 30, 2018)

Hi,
I am getting ready to level my South Bend Lathe and My Step Pulley Bridgeport.
I have been checking out the internet and a few youtube videos. I would like to ask the group and learn from your experience.
I am planning on making the adjuster/feet.
Did you buy a machinests level?
How did you lift it to slip in the pads/adjusters?
Thank you!


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## RandyM (Apr 30, 2018)

Here is what I did.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/base-feet-for-a-bridgeport.1362/

You can use a large crowbar and blocks of wood to lift one side at a time. Then you can block it up until you have the feet installed.


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## Janderso (Apr 30, 2018)

It's interesting that Bridgeport wants us to bolt them to the floor >from the manual< 
"It is recommended that the machine be secured to the floor to prevent movement
or tipping due to off-center loading."
I don't think I would do that. I just want my mill to be level and stable. Right now it rocks a bit on my concrete garage floor.


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## projectnut (Apr 30, 2018)

Before you get too carried away take a look at the construction of the base.  The older machines have a hollow base with 4 unthreaded holes for securing the base to the floor.  Bridgeport recommends leveling on this style machine be accomplished by shims placed between the base and the floor near  each of the anchor bolt holes.  

Here's a link to the manual for the older machines with the hollow base:

file:///C:/Users/fourm/Machine%20Shop%20Info/Bridgeport%20milling%20machine/bridgeport-manual%20older%20J@J.pdf

Newer machines have a C casting at the base.  There are 4 threaded holes used for leveling or anchoring the machine to the floor.  The leveling/anchor bolts pass through  2 threaded surfaces before exiting the bottom of the machine.

Here's a link to the manual for the newer machines with the C flange on the base:

http://hardingeus.com/usr/pdf/Knee Mills/SeriesIPartList4302Plus.pdf

I would caution against using leveling legs on the older style machines.  The casting is only about 5/8" thick at the bolt holes and much thinner nearer the center.  I doubt the machine could support the full 750 lbs. the work table is capable of if the base is not firmly on the floor.


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## Janderso (Apr 30, 2018)

Very good information Mr. Projectnut. Thank you sir. I could have gone down the wrong road. I wonder if Randy ever drilled/tapped his BP?
I think I will just shim with an adequate material after I accomplish how to level it.


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## projectnut (Apr 30, 2018)

I have had an older (1972) Bridgeport in the shop going on 20 years.  All I've ever done to level it is place shims near the corner holes.  I originally thought about anchoring it to the floor, but I'm glad I didn't.  When it first came in the shop it's only company was a drill press and a lathe.  There are now nearly two dozen pieces of equipment and all have been moved at least 3 times to make room for the latest acquisition.  There isn't much room left now, buy who knows, if the right machine comes along I might need to rearrange one more time.


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## MrWhoopee (Apr 30, 2018)

In the shop I apprenticed in (later shop foreman), and my own shop, we never anchored the mills. Too hard to rearrange the furniture when there's a new addition. As far as leveling a mill, it's mostly just to keep things from rolling off the table or to ensure that the coolant drains. Use a carpenter's level and get it stable on the floor so it won't rock.  A lathe is another matter, though my SB Heavy 10 was just leveled the same way. It cuts .0003 taper over 14 in., but it's only a 4 ft. bed.

I'm thinking someone needs to offer rental of a precision level.


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## tjb (Apr 30, 2018)

I have a Supermax brand BP clone and have done an admittedly poor job of shimming it so far.  What do you guys use for shim stock?  How much of an area of the footprint do you try to shim?  (I'm guessing the more the better?)  Am I correct in assuming that, within reasonably close tolerances, 'stabilizing' is really more important than 'leveling'?

I'm off close to 1/4" on the worst corner and have shimmed it by tapering a couple of pieces of scrap 1/2" square cold-rolled.  Generally, it's stable, but occasionally there is mild vibration.

Regards,
Terry


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## Dabbler (Apr 30, 2018)

Mine isn't levelled--yet.  My friend bert made custom 2" aluminum pads, machined to precise thicknesses. He had to remachine the last one, as the floor wasn't flat to the thou (go figure?)


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## MrWhoopee (Apr 30, 2018)

Dabbler said:


> Mine isn't levelled--yet.  My friend bert made custom 2" aluminum pads, machined to precise thicknesses. He had to remachine the last one, as the floor wasn't flat to the thou (go figure?)



Reminds me of the custom delrin foot pads I had to make for the new claw-foot tub in my old home. They varied from 1/8 to 7/16. Nothing was level in that place. Not just anybody can do that kind of work.


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## Doubleeboy (Apr 30, 2018)

I use shim stock to level my BP clone.  Toe jack comes in real handy, if you don't have one they are pretty easy to build, videos on youtube.


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## derf (May 1, 2018)

I leveled mine using copper wedges.


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## RandyM (May 1, 2018)

Janderso said:


> Very good information Mr. Projectnut. Thank you sir. I could have gone down the wrong road.* I wonder if Randy ever drilled/tapped his BP?*
> I think I will just shim with an adequate material after I accomplish how to level it.



Why yes I did. Please see post 20 in the link in post 2 of this thread.

By the way I didn't have to drill the holes, just tap them. This is so much easier than trying to shim.


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## Dabbler (May 1, 2018)

I suggested the a;aluminum pads as a skills development/challenge... Making the first 3 isn't hard, but getting the fourth one just right takes some fiddling!  when Ii move my|BP into its final resting spot, I am weighing tapping the holes (which is easier)with making aluminum pads (which is fun)


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## Janderso (May 10, 2018)

RandyM said:


> Why yes I did. Please see post 20 in the link in post 2 of this thread.
> 
> By the way I didn't have to drill the holes, just tap them. This is so much easier than trying to shim.



Hey Randy, is your casting down by the 4 holes solid or hollow? I wouldn't want to cause a fracture. pretty cool you didn't have to drill. As I recall they were 3/4 holes?


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## RandyM (May 10, 2018)

Janderso said:


> Hey Randy, is your casting down by the 4 holes solid or hollow? I wouldn't want to cause a fracture. pretty cool you didn't have to drill. As I recall they were 3/4 holes?



I am not quite sure what you mean "solid of hollow". But, the hole itself is fairly deep, not the whole depth of the base. It has been so long now that I'd have to check the hole and tap sizes. My machine is a 1958 model.


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## RandyM (May 10, 2018)

Well, this came out of the thread I linked to in post 2.



RandyM said:


> Thanks Tony, I hear your concerns. I have the machine tore down right now and thought now would be a good time to do it. And really *the way the base is cast I only have to tap about 1-1/2 inches in the top part of the base*. The rest is relieved. Thanks for the heads up. Oh, I was thinking the base casting should be of some quality as the knee ways are machined into it.





RandyM said:


> Well Guys, I did it. *I tapped the base with 3/4-10*, installed threaded rod. I topped it off with an polished stainless steel acorn nut. And roll pinned it together. I used a jam nut to lock them all in place. I may add a foof at the bottom later. Don't mind the picture, it is not as crooked as it looks.


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## Janderso (May 10, 2018)

Quote from Projectnut >>> "Before you get too carried away take a look at the construction of the base. The older machines have a hollow base with 4 unthreaded holes for securing the base to the floor. Bridgeport recommends leveling on this style machine be accomplished by shims placed between the base and the floor near each of the anchor bolt holes.  ""

That's why I asked about hollow or solid.
Did I misunderstand something?
After reading the post about a potentially unstable support area, that's my question sir.
I can't imagine these beasts being fragile but the engineers at Bridgeport went out of their way to have a solid base with a large footprint.
The idea for me was to identify the best way to level and stabilize my BP.
Randy, your method seems great.


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## RandyM (May 10, 2018)

Yes, my base is not solid and has a cavity under it. I did it this way because I didn't what extra things to trip over sticking out beyond the base. I also couldn't just put all-thread through the hole with a washer on the bottom because the bottom side of the casting doesn't allow for it and the bottom nut would be impossible to get at for adjustment. I also didn't want the machine any higher than it already is. My base only sits a half inch to an inch off the floor and the threaded rod sits on pads.

I think that the BP engineers where intending these things to be bolted to the floor, mine is not. That is the great thing about being a fly by night mechanic and a hobby machinist, I don't have to conform to anything or anyone else. Just an additional note, I am not the only one that has done this, and as far as I know, now of us are having any problems.

Good luck with what ever you decide. I know it will work out just fine for you.


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## gi_984 (May 12, 2018)

My BP was placed onto a custom pallet I built at the point of purchase.  Lowered onto it with a crane and bolted down.  Loaded into my trailer and has remained there since moving it into the shop.  Level?  Good enough to my eye, things don't roll off etc.  Head and vise is trammed in and checked regularly.  That is what counts.  As stated before, much easier to move around when needed with a pallet jack to reconfigure the shop, etc. 
Holds dimensions easily.  The limiting factor is the nut turning the dials(i.e. Me!)


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## Cadillac (May 12, 2018)

When I got my bp I also thought about mounting and leveling feet. I’m six foot and still have aliitle reach for drawbar. I didn’t want the machine any taller than already was. No power drawbar been on the list of things to make!
 I used a 1/4” thick rubber matting I think was from a truck bed liner. It works good for irregularities in floor which was brand new. I didn’t worry about leveling precisely just let it settle in to mat. I don’t think it needs to be exact level. I indicate everything in on table so level doesn’t matter. 
I think the holes in base are for bolting machine down. So if table is offset or you have ram fully extended or offset with large part on table it does tip the machine.


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## aliva (May 13, 2018)

My BP clone is bolted to the floor and then leveled with SS shims, no pads


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## wcunning (May 17, 2018)

These are my leveling feet, ready to go on the lathe. Hopefully I'll have it up on the feet this weekend, but we'll see how clearing out around it for the hoist goes...


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## Janderso (Jul 17, 2018)

I finally got around to leveling my Bridgeport. I purchased a precision 12" level. I welded 3/4" nuts on some 3/4" ready rod. Inserted in pre threaed holes.
That was not easy. When I get the front side to side level, one of the back feet are off the ground. I finally got everything all worked around. Overnight it settled some. Made another attempt at finding the bubble. The mill has settled down. I used it last night, works great, very stable.
My table is warped some, I placed the level on parallels. It has to be better than it was.
At least all the feet are solid on the concrete and I can see the bubble 9-3 and 12-6. oclock.
Hey, all we can do is the best we can right?


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## MrWhoopee (Jul 17, 2018)

While a good idea, level isn't that critical with a mill. It won't cut a taper or out of square if it's half a bubble off. As long as it doesn't rock and the endmill doesn't roll off the table, it's all good.


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## Janderso (Jul 17, 2018)

Thank you Mr. W.
I have used this mill when it did in fact rock. I was determined to at least shim the high spot.
I am comfortable at this point.


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## coffmajt (Jul 17, 2018)

Like Randy, I tapped four of the base holes in my knee mill for 3/4 NC and inserted some rubber padded jack screws, which let me level the mill with ease.  I checked it every few weeks and had to make some small adjustments, but after a few months it became very stable and has remained that way.  The rubber feet seem to make it run quieter as well -- Jack


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## Janderso (Jul 17, 2018)

I put pieces of a truck inner liner (tube) just for fun. I plan on adding stout solid rubber pads.
Good to hear though.


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## Shootymacshootface (Jul 23, 2018)

derf said:


> I leveled mine using copper wedges.


Clausing FV-1 here and used pieces of sheet metal to level. I would think that copper would compress over time, on the other hand sheet metal may thicken as it trusts over time. Both of which are probably insignificant. 


MrWhoopee said:


> While a good idea, level isn't that critical with a mill. It won't cut a taper or out of square if it's half a bubble off. As long as it doesn't rock and the endmill doesn't roll off the table, it's all good.


I totally agree, but did level mine to make setting up parts to mill angles using a level or my magnetic protractor.


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## Janderso (Jul 23, 2018)

I saw a Youtube where someone used a digital magnetic protractor. Is that slick or what?


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## Shootymacshootface (Jul 23, 2018)

That is cool. I know that mine is only ballpark.


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