# Is this a reasonable horizontal band saw solution for a small shop?



## rwdenney (Aug 26, 2022)

I can't think of any project I would undertake that would require cutting tubular stock bigger than 4" round or square, or solid stock bigger than 2", and this Grizzly "portable" with an accessory horizontal cutting frame seems to be able to do that. And it can be detached from the frame and used as a portable. Power seems pretty good--the 1HP claim is backed up by the 12.5-amp draw at 120VAC. 









						Combination Benchtop/Hand-Held Metal-Cutting Bandsaw at Grizzly.com
					

<h1>G8692 Portable Bandsaw with Stand</h1> <h2>Just the right size for most small cutoff jobs.</h2> <p>This compact metal-cutting bandsaw easily converts from a benchtop cutoff saw with a vise to a hand-held bandsaw for the ultimate in convenience and versatility!</p> <p>Perfect for plumbing...




					www.grizzly.com
				




Right now, I use a repurposed cheapie miter saw turned into a metal chop saw with an abrasive blade, but it sure makes hot, ugly, and messy cuts.

Yes, I've investigated fixed horizontal metal-cutting bandsaws in my area, and nothing is that cheap. People want more than that even for a used Harbor Freight cheapie, about which reviews are mixed, and which probably is less powerful than this.

I have a vertical bandsaw already that will cut aluminum but it is not designed for steel, and of course does not make a good cut-off tool in any case.

Opinions?

Rick "recognizing that this is a compromise" Denney


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## markba633csi (Aug 26, 2022)

I'm sure it would do just fine for hobby stuff
-M


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## mickri (Aug 26, 2022)

You can find a fair numbers of videos on how a portable bandsaw has been converted to both horizontal and vertical.  Looks like Griz has taped into that.

I found my horizontal bandsaw at a farm auction.  It had been sitting in the back corner of a shed unused for years.  It was dirty, rusty and needed a new belt.  Cleaned up nice. 









						Craftsman 3x6 horizontal bandsaw
					

Went to a farm auction last Saturday and sitting in an old shed gathering dust and rust for maybe decades was an old Craftsman 3x6 horizontal band saw model 101.22922.   $40 dollars and it's mine.  Here's a picture from the auction website.     Got it home and promptly started tearing it apart...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




If you are in no hurry hunt down all of the auction companies in your area and start going to auctions.  All kinds of treasures to be found when the old barns and sheds get cleaned out.


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## JPMacG (Aug 26, 2022)

I use a Harbor Freight handheld band saw about that size.  It has served me well and I have cut steel round up to 3".   The only limitation I have run into is when I tried to cut plate.  The throat clearance was insufficient.  I do not have the table.   Holding it by hand is tiresome but do-able.

If you get it, be sure to use a high quality blade.  The blade that came with mine was not.


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## FOMOGO (Aug 26, 2022)

I have one like this (Balleigh), and use it all the time, even though I have much larger ones. It pivots 60deg, but in the opposite plane than the one you show. Bought it used, but almost new. There are similar saws that are cheaper Chinese knockoffs that probably work just fine.


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## Winegrower (Aug 26, 2022)

Read the reviews…it looks like if you treat this as a “bandsaw kit” it could work out.


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## dbb-the-bruce (Aug 26, 2022)

If you have the space, I would recommend getting the (relatively cheap) HF horizontal/vertical. Its about the same price as what you are looking at. Are you really going to use the handheld aspect of the saw? I've never encountered a need for that in my limited experience (prepping stock for machining)

Being able to also do light freehand work in vertical mode is a real plus. (don't bother using the provided table on the H/V saw).

At this point, I'd really like to be able to do unattended stopped vertical cuts in stock that's up to 1" thick - but that's another level of vertical saw. The biggest limitation with the cheap H/V saw is the throat. Reducing a large 24" x 12" sheet of 1/4" AL can be tricky or impossible depending on how much you are trying to cut off. I've had no issue with setting up heavy long cuts and working on something else for the 30 or 40 min it takes to get it done.

Saws are one of those things that sooner or later you are going to want more. Get the biggest / most capable that fits your work and your shop space that you can afford. Plan on trading up later if you stick with the hobby.


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## slow-poke (Aug 26, 2022)

I picked up a new in box (sitting for years) King 5x6 from Kijiji for cheap. There are a lot of easy and worthwhile mods, I did them and use this saw constantly, way more than anticipated. Fantastic addition to my home hobby shop. If you have a bit of space, these can be a Kijiji or Craigslist bargain.


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## rwdenney (Aug 26, 2022)

Yes, I realize this will need to be tuned up to work well, and expect that from Grizzly. My woodworking stuff is similar. I have gotten great service from my 3-HP Grizzly cabinet saw, but it took a LOT of shimming and adjusting to get everything dialed in (and I aligned the miter slots with the blade using a dial indicator to get alignment within .010" across the 10" blade and dead square vertically--pretty good for woodworking. I expect there are people who bought those saws and thought them junk because they did not go through that process. I did read the comments and reviews on this Grizzly saw, but I never seem to have the same problems the reviewers do when I buy similar stuff. I never know what those reviewers are really expecting.

Same deal with the import knockoff of the 14" Delta bandsaw for woodworking. I added a fence and it is also aligned to within a few thousandths. I even stoned the table to fix all those dings and burrs. But it's a wood-cutting bandsaw and is not made for cutting steel. It does fine with aluminum if I go slow.

I'm just trying to get to where I don't have to spend a chunk of time at the grinder to fix the mess left by an abrasive-blade chop saw.

I have already seen the blondihacks video in which Quinn fabbed a table to mount a porta-band in the vertical position for hogging off excess material from small workpieces. I'm comfortable with that kind of project. But a vertical is hard to use for cutting off long pieces, particularly with heavy pieces. I'd like to be able to cut structural sections (including square tubing and flat bar) up to 4" by 3/8" thick, and solid rod for trimming excess from specific pieces likely never larger than 2". I'd like it to be able to cut stainless steel at least.

What do you guys think of Starrett blades? Little Machine Shop sells them in porta-band sizes for $10-11 each. I use one on my Delta-style wood-cutting bandsaw and it has provided very good service, but that's a totally different use case.

(I had already looked at the HF red cheapie, even though it's a solid hundred bucks more expensive. But this seems like it would have more versatility--sometimes I have to do plumbing projects in the house where this would be helpfully portable--and when I saw it I realized I could put it on my bench right where my abrasive chop saw is, and thus it would not take up additional floor space I'm reserving for bigger machines.)

Rick "appreciative" Denney


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## JPMacG (Aug 26, 2022)

I use a Milwaukee 24 tpi blade.  I think anything with a Starrett label would be top quality.


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## Bi11Hudson (Aug 26, 2022)

All these portable band-saws that copy the "Porta-Band"s make me question reality. That is not the word I want, but it will serve. I have used, and possess, a Milwaukee Porta-Band since sometime in the late '70s. My primary use was/is cutting conduit. Although I use it for solid material when a carpenter's circular saw will not cut the material. My biggest issue is when the saw "drifts" from the desired line. Some of this is when the blade loses its' "set", and some of it is my inability to hold the saw steady, especially on a solid material. A portable band saw isn't that heavy to pick up, but over the time it takes to make a cut will often gain weight to the point is has more than trebled. And that's not from old age, the same phenomenon occured when I was in my 20s. 

I bring this up to point out that the mechanism for rolling the blade and the metalurgy of the blade make a great deal of difference in "controling" the cut. An older Milwaukee or Starrett blade will maintain its' set *longer*. No blade will last forever, that's why they make replacement blades. But as the blade loses its' set, it can be controlled to an extent to compensate, giving a "few" more cuts where time is of the essence. When a blade comes out of the package (new) and doesn't cut straight, I scrap the blade and don't acquire any more from that source.

Truing the guides is important here as well. Even a good saw will lose its' accuracy when dropped or repeatedly tossed into a tool locker. A not so good saw may come from the factory that way. The guides *MUST* be true to each other. If there is *any* twist across the cutting section of the blade between the guides it *will not* cut true. I use a thin straight edge to adjust mine, there is probably a tool specifically for this but I'm a cheap old buzzard and never looked for one. 

These two points apply to any band saw, whether a portable or a stationary machine. The guides must be true and the blade have the proper "set". There is no negotiation on these two points.

.


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## DavidR8 (Aug 26, 2022)

@rwdenney I have a version of that Grizzly saw and it's ok. Just OK. I used Milwaukee Portaband saws extensively while working in the US and they are head and shoulders above clones. Unfortunately Milwaukee doesn't make a stand for their saws. Maybe there's a reason for that?

The stand is ok and works alright so long as you aren't expecting a perfectly plumb cut. 

I used to own a 4x6 horizontal saw, sold in in a quest for more floor space, bought the portaband-style with stand and almost instantly regretted it. I lucked out and found a basically new Delta 4x6 saw and am happy again. 
The portaband-style saw excels in situations where you have to bring the saw to the work or the work won't fit in the 4x6 vise because of odd configuration etc.


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## rwdenney (Aug 26, 2022)

DavidR8 said:


> @rwdenney I have a version of that Grizzly saw and it's ok. Just OK. I used Milwaukee Portaband saws extensively while working in the US and they are head and shoulders above clones. Unfortunately Milwaukee doesn't make a stand for their saws. Maybe there's a reason for that?
> 
> The stand is ok and works alright so long as you aren't expecting a perfectly plumb cut.
> 
> ...


Yes, that's good experience, thanks. The Harbor Freight 4x6 is a little more expensive but it's a lot bigger and heavier, and I expect every bit as amenable to modification as this Grizzly thing. I can get it locally, so there's no shipping, if I can find a store that has it in stock (a couple apparently do, but I never see it out on the floor). Before buying anything, I want to see one of those set up.

The used ones I see in the local marketplace in that price range are either used HF cheapies or they are utterly clapped out. I will fix something to get a good deal, but for one that is untested and a pile of rust, I define "good deal" as a couple of twenties, not three or four C-notes. The folks around here are proud of their rusty old stuff.

Nothing is like Milwaukee of old, except maybe Porter Cable of even older. Neither are like they were. I've actually used my old Milwaukee Sawzall (made in USA and came in a metal carry case) with a metal-cutting blade to hack through structural steel, car frames, structural aluminum, rebar, conduit--speaking of not being easy to keep the cut straight!

The vise in the stand looks like it is ripe for modification and improvement, but the thing it has that the portables don't usually have is the hinge allowing that sort of application in the first place. 

I've been spending money for stuff in my new shop (and that includes the new shop) like it's going out of style (which it seems to be, but that's another story) and really want to save up for bigger machines. But I think it's pretty hard to have fun with a lathe or a mill without a usable band saw.

Rick "finger not near any buy button yet" Denney


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## pontiac428 (Aug 26, 2022)

The 4x6 is a lot of value for the money.  Mine cut square and straight out of the box with minimal setup.  Good blades are all you need, and they're not expensive.  It fits under a bench or against the wall.  Mine fits between my knee mill and the wall, I just pull it out to use it and wheel it back when I'm done.  Even at $250, it's a great value.  Sure, I'd like a Delta, but the 4x6 does the job well and takes less space.


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## Firebrick43 (Aug 26, 2022)

FOMOGO said:


> I have one like this (Balleigh), and use it all the time, even though I have much larger ones. It pivots 60deg, but in the opposite plane than the one you show. Bought it used, but almost new. There are similar saws that are cheaper Chinese knockoffs that probably work just fine.
> 
> View attachment 418274


The baleigh is an asian knockoff.  the original is made in italy by femi.


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## Firebrick43 (Aug 26, 2022)

DavidR8 said:


> @rwdenney I have a version of that Grizzly saw and it's ok. Just OK. I used Milwaukee Portaband saws extensively while working in the US and they are head and shoulders above clones. Unfortunately Milwaukee doesn't make a stand for their saws. Maybe there's a reason for that?
> 
> The stand is ok and works alright so long as you aren't expecting a perfectly plumb cut.
> 
> ...


Milwaukee makes a stand.  

Milwaukee portaband stand.


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## projectnut (Aug 26, 2022)

Personally, I would hold out for a stand-alone machine.  Either a power hacksaw or a stand-alone horizontal bandsaw.  In my opinion both are superior to a bench top machine like the one you're considering.  Both the power hacksaw and the stand-alone bandsaw can more easily handle longer pieces of stock.  In addition, they don't have to be attended to.  They can be allowed to run on their own while you do something else.

For the record I have an abrasive saw that has been converted to a dry saw.  It uses a speed reducer module to bring the blade rpm down to 1,800, and a carbide toothed blade ground to cut aluminum.  It sounded like a great idea at the time but isn't very practical.  It's messy, not nearly as sturdy as the other saws, requires a hands-on operator, and is extremely noisy.

I was able to purchase a 3 speed Racine 6 x 6 power hacksaw for less than $200.00 and a Startrite 7 x 12 horizontal/vertical bandsaw for less than $500.00.  Both are coolant capable and can be setup and left alone to complete the job.  The Racine saw weighs about 700 lbs. and the Startrite weighs about 300 lbs.   

There is currently a Carolina bandsaw, on Craigslist in our area with an asking price of less than $300.00.  I realize they are lower end machines, but I believe they are a step up from the HF ones that seem to be so popular. There are also a couple power hacksaws listed.  Both are dry cut saws.  One has an asking price of $300,00 while the other has an asking price of $110.00. Again, I believe both of these saws would be superior to a benchtop bandsaw.

If you're patient I'm sure you can find a better saw for your money.


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## DeanB (Aug 26, 2022)

FOMOGO said:


> I have one like this (Balleigh), and use it all the time, even though I have much larger ones. It pivots 60deg, but in the opposite plane than the one you show. Bought it used, but almost new. There are similar saws that are cheaper Chinese knockoffs that probably work just fine.
> 
> View attachment 418274


I have the Klutch version of that saw.  Works really well, not the fastest thing in larger thicker material but it works and gives good square cuts.


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## MrWhoopee (Aug 26, 2022)

I put the 4x6 horizontal/vertical on the 5 essentials list. I can't think of another piece of equipment that gives equal bang for the buck. I bought a new one from HF and have made numerous mods to it. Then I inherited a 70s or 80s version, which I converted to a dedicated vertical. I also have a big (9x16) Kalamazoo that gets used maybe once or twice a year. Get a 4x6, or get a porta-band and wish you had.


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## homebrewed (Aug 26, 2022)

I bought a portable bandsaw and used it awhile, but got tired of the noise and weight when cutting larger stock.  Maybe it was the particular saw, but it was noisy enouth to be uncomfortable to ue.  These days I use an inexpensive 4x6 vertical/horizontal bandsaw from Harbor Freight.  With some tweaks and a decent blade it cuts pretty straight.  It has some nice features like a fence for cutting a number of equal-length pieces, a nice option I've used now and then.


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## chip maker (Aug 27, 2022)

Just my 2 cents, I own one of the G8692 saws and bought it many years ago at like a 3rd that price but I have been very pleased with it and it does a good job. I did change the vise as I didn't care for the setup the saw came with. I later bought a 4 X 6 used that was like new but it is an early buildt HF saw it also has been a good saw with some updating and adjustments previus owner always had trouble keeping blades from coming off but was all in the adjustments. So heres my thought for you to think about like I said I paid alot less for the saw from Grizzly but at the price now the 4 x 6 sure would be a better buy. the only thing I will say is that I use both of the saws I have. If I need a quick cut off of a smaller oiece I go to the small saw but than if it is a larger or thicker piece that is going to take some time to cut, I use the 4 X 6. If it for sure it is a space thing don't be afraid of the Grizzly, but the price is a bit high it will do what is within its means. Be your own judge as to what you need to get your job done and space available.  Good luck but I feel they both have a place in my small shop.


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## Aaron_W (Aug 27, 2022)

I've been happy with my HF 4x6" bandsaw, it has more than paid for itself by now just in saved cutting fees. I would put the 4x6 bandsaw on my top 5 best things HF sells list. It has nearly doubled in price since I bought mine, but I think it is still a pretty good deal. 

Agree buying a saw this size used, is often not a great savings as most are asking too close to new prices. If you have the space and some time, you can often find larger horizontal bandsaws for about the same price as the HF. I also have a 50 year old Kalamazoo 6x10" that I picked for $300. It is superior to the HF saw in just about every way, but is also in an entirely different class, being a larger industrial grade saw.


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## projectnut (Aug 27, 2022)

It sounds like most of you have far more patience than I do when it comes to machine performance and the continual need to make modifications before getting acceptable results.  Almost to a person those with the HF or similar saws have reported having to make "modifications" or "improvements" before the machine will produce consistently acceptable results.

I must admit I do buy most of my machines from used equipment dealers.  As such I expect to initially spend some time cleaning them and bringing them up to snuff.  I may be cheap, but I do take into consideration the initial cost, the time needed for cleaning and repairs, and the cost of parts before making a purchase.  I stick with industrial or commercial machines because of the initial build quality and the expectation that they can be restored to return to production quality with minimal expense.  As far as total cost is concerned, I expect to have less in a completed machine than it would cost to purchase a new or nearly new similar size hobby grade machine.

I have limited time in the shop and would rather be making parts than repairing or upgrading machinery.  Most of the machinery in my shop dates from the mid 1940's to the late 1980's.  The newest is the Baileigh cold saw which was built in 2011.  None of the machines have required more than normal scheduled maintenance since they were put into service. 

As mentioned earlier the saws are some of the most used machines in the shop.  They need to run unattended and produce quality cuts.  I can't imagine having to baby sit a saw to get acceptable results.  It would drive me nuts.  There's nothing that bugs me worse than a machine that isn't functioning properly. I expect straight, on size cuts each and every time.  I don't want to waste time squaring up crooked cuts or trimming parts to their proper length.


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## epanzella (Aug 27, 2022)

I have the HF band saw with the 64 1/2 x 1/2 blade. This this has done everything I have asked of it and I would buy it again in a heart beat.


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## twooldvolvos (Aug 27, 2022)

rwdenney said:


> I can't think of any project I would undertake that would require cutting tubular stock bigger than 4" round or square, or solid stock bigger than 2", and this Grizzly "portable" with an accessory horizontal cutting frame seems to be able to do that. And it can be detached from the frame and used as a portable. Power seems pretty good--the 1HP claim is backed up by the 12.5-amp draw at 120VAC.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I am just starting to learn to use a lathe and to get setup to do small projects.  Here is my solution to a cutoff saw.  It works great for what I need and it does not take a lot of space.  With some modification I could use it as a band saw but now it is dedicated to a cutoff.


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## great white (Aug 27, 2022)

I'm in Canada, so I bought this:







Does what I need in my small home shop. Works great. There's only 2 things I don't like about it:

1.  There's no trigger lock (you have to hold the trigger or strap it closed) 
2.  The work "clamp" doesn't hold very well and is loosening up over time. It seems to be wear as it can't really be compensated for. The clamp uses a simple knurled surface and a plate with a hole that you kind of "cam" to hold the knurled part of the rod. Pretty janky way of making a clamp which seems to be more concerned with being able to quickly move the clamp than longevity, I'll likely replace it with an ACME thread rod when it finally gives up the ghost. A couple extra seconds working the clamp to firmly hold the work is well worth the "hassle".


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## wachuko (Aug 28, 2022)

I bought this only due to space… when the shop is built I will get one of those floor standing  4”x6”.  But this one has been working great for me.  

But for some stuff, I still go to the handheld bandsaw that I have.  







And made a table for it…




All this to say that the one from Grizzly looks like a great and flexible option for the price.


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## pontiac428 (Aug 28, 2022)

projectnut said:


> It sounds like most of you have far more patience than I do when it comes to machine performance and the continual need to make modifications before getting acceptable results.  Almost to a person those with the HF or similar saws have reported having to make "modifications" or "improvements" before the machine will produce consistently acceptable results.


The HF saw takes virtually nothing to set up.  Just a loosen, align, and tighten here or there.  Mine took little more than an inspection and test before it was cutting square.


> I must admit I do buy most of my machines from used equipment dealers.


Nothing wrong with that!  Of course I'd rather have a serviceable commercial machine than a Chinese budget consumer machine.  In this case, it's a lot of bang for the buck, like the HF tool boxes.


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## slow-poke (Aug 28, 2022)

projectnut said:


> It sounds like most of you have far more patience than I do when it comes to machine performance and the continual need to make modifications before getting acceptable results.  Almost to a person those with the HF or similar saws have reported having to make "modifications" or "improvements" before the machine will produce consistently acceptable results.
> 
> I must admit I do buy most of my machines from used equipment dealers.  As such I expect to initially spend some time cleaning them and bringing them up to snuff.  I may be cheap, but I do take into consideration the initial cost, the time needed for cleaning and repairs, and the cost of parts before making a purchase.  I stick with industrial or commercial machines because of the initial build quality and the expectation that they can be restored to return to production quality with minimal expense.  As far as total cost is concerned, I expect to have less in a completed machine than it would cost to purchase a new or nearly new similar size hobby grade machine.
> 
> ...


The King 5x6 horizontal I picked up, cut very straight right out of the box, and continues to do so. I can cut off a 1mm slice.
The tweaks I did:
1) adding an adjustable bar for the vise, to make it easy to clamp short objects
2) Added a table to support longer stock
3) Made a table for vertical use that can be installed or taken off in 5 seconds

They were dead simple to fabricate. None of these are necessary, but they do make using the saw a pleasure to work with.


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## epanzella (Aug 28, 2022)

The HF saw is good right out of the box. The only temp mods I have made is to add things like an angle plate to cut stuff that was way too large for the machine's rated capacity.


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## Jake M (Aug 28, 2022)

pontiac428 said:


> The HF saw takes virtually nothing to set up.  Just a loosen, align, and tighten here or there.  Mine took little more than an inspection and test before it was cutting square.



I'll second that.  There are lots of things that "the internet" has declared "necessary", but you can't prove it by me.

I took it out of the box and put it together.  The stand goes inside the casting, not outside.  The directions were quite unclear.  About thirty seconds of questioning myself and it was solved.

I took the gearbox apart out of fear derived from the internet.  No need.  (Although inspection is not a bad thing).  No sharapnel, no rolled over edges, nothing interfering and making damage or undue friction.  (I did that again after what I estimated to be an hour of actual running time, still the same).  The worm DOES have really sharp edges, but in use, they don't scrape, plow, roll over, or otherwise interfere with the interaction of the gearset.  They are sharp  though...  but there's a cast steel cover over them so you won't cut yourself.....  No "upgrade"  needed.

I studied the heck out of the belt that came with it, as allegedly that causes bad cuts.  Can't prove it by me.  It does drive the input to a worm gear set, so it's kinda isolated, and even if it was "lumpy" I'm not sure how you'd tell on a band saw....  No "upgrade" needed.

I set up a piece of stock (two and a half inch high carbon mystery steel.  This crap is gnarly....)  The blade kept falling off.  Per the internet I scraped all the paint off of the drive wheel.  Now it cut, but I was able to see the problem.  The weld on the stock blade was not dead straight, so the blade immediately after the weld was angled down, and dug in, HARD.  So bad blade.  Fault number one.  Dremel wheel sharpen about four teeth to a neutral rake, and finish the cut.

I checked for square, and found that the vise was out of square (I never set it, no fault), and the blade "wandered" about an eighth of an inch over that nasty piece of mystery metal.  So I adjusted the guides.  Over adjusted actually.  It cut ever so slightly the other way.  It's now about a sixteenth over a four inch part.  I haven't chased it further because I don't care.  But it's easily and infinitely adjustable, and the blades I have are made with more than enough set that it isn't going to be terribly tough to get a square cut out of them.  They'll leave a good "window" of what's acceptable, so no micrometers will be required.  My blades are the original which turns out to be "OK enough" after I found the problem and adjusted a few teeth to not dig in as the crooked weld passes the work, which is a bandaid... but it works.  And the replacement I got preemptively before I solved that, a genuine Harbor Freight bi-metal blade.  One's OK now, the other is pretty OK right out of the wrapper.

So.....
-30 seconds, literally two screws worth of aggravation during assembly.
-Blade and vise adjustments not perfect right out of the box.
-I'll throw in scraping the paint from the drive wheel.  That wasn't needed, but if it won't wear off it might be good practice.
-The original blade was faulty, but usable (and even OK) with a little TLC.

Thats a saw in the three to four hundred dollar range, depending on your taxes and willingness to wait for a sale or cupon.  What's the aggravation list on an industrial version in the 3 to 4 thousand range look like?  I'd bet it's not any shorter.  I'll bet it'll last a lot longer, hold up to commercial use, production work, be more forgiving of misuse, probably be much faster with more horsepower....  But I doubt the aggravation list on setup is any shorter.

I did do one "mod" to it.  I put a Walmart dish pan on the shelf, hanging out on the cut side just a whisker.  That was a nice addition, but there will be no week long build video series on my chip pan.  On low speed, it nears 100 percent.  On high speed, it's still pretty darned good, but not perfect.  About the same as the multitude of "dust collection" that I've seen done on these.  But I've discovered (since I learned to trust it...) that I can walk away.  What's a faster cut gonna get me in that instance?  It lives on low speed and I just don't care enough to ever change it.  Even if I'm out of "work", I'll guarantee that unrelated to the bandsaw, there's a pile of junk "somewhere" that still needs picking up.  Tools to put away, tools to take out for the next step, measurements to take.  

I don't consider this a "mod" at all, but while I was setting up and adjusting it, during the cutting time I knocked out a crude but pretty OK "mini saw horse" out of 4/4 pine boards (3/4X5-1/2 actual) to hold up the "infeed" side of the material.  Takes all the sport out of loading up really long material.  I've got a piece of that about a foot long, I set that under the "drop" side.  Takes the "clang" out of things when the offcut drops to the concrete.

It's ABSOLUTELY not industrial equipment, but it's one of the few items at Harbor Freight that I'll actually stand up for as being good for what it is.   It's simple, so you "can" modify it quite a lot.  It makes good videos.  I just don't think there's any need.  One really cool feature of the Harbor Freight type  4X6...  Not exclusive to it, but not a guarantee on other models...  If you close the vise, it's flat on top of the whole thing.  In horizontal mode (if nobody's looking), you can sit on it motorcycle style, and it puts the platten (or the top of the guide if you're too lazy to use the platten) just about the right height and distance from you.  If anybody accuses me of saying this, I'll deny it, but it's kind of a comfortable position for that type of work.


Relating this to the original post-  I think that the portable saws with stands, and the fixed cutoff saws of the same design but not readily removeable, are in the same class of machine.  Never meant to be industrial, all day, every  day production machines.  Probably gonna need dialing in when new.  Probably gonna need a better blade than stock.  But despite what you CAN do to them, I don't think there's much you NEED to do to them.  They are very limited by their size (as is the 4X6), but if the work envelope fits your need....  And the space issue.  That's real.  If I had to choose between the two designs, and IF.... IF the two designs had the same capacity, I think I'd get more usefulness and general betterment of my life by being able to walk away from my saw than from the portability of a benchtop model.  But that's my garage, the work I do, the work I enjoy, the frequency that I need or want to do other things with it....  Either would  be an equally good or bad decision, it's just got to fit the work YOU do.


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## Larry$ (Aug 28, 2022)

I've got one of these Chinese 4X6 saws. It says Delta on it but is the same machine, different paint. I've had it a long time. Did the normal adjustments and made a larger table for it when used upright. The stand is kind of flimsy but we work in  metal... Everything Jake said is true. Mine cuts quite straight with a good blade. Not an industrial machine but for the price well worth it. Blondihacks used a portable but finally broke down & got a 4x6.  I've got an abrasive saw available to me. Only use it on hardened material. I was given an old Italian industrial cold saw. Great machine after considerable fixn'. Almost a machined finish cut. Much faster than a bandsaw.


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## great white (Aug 28, 2022)

slow-poke said:


> 1) adding an adjustable bar for the vise, to make it easy to clamp short objects


 I’m curious about that. Care to snap a pic and post it?


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## MillersvilleProf (Aug 28, 2022)

Here is my 4x6 HF. This was one of the older Taiwan models. I replaced the stand with an antique Craftsman stand that at one time held a jointer. Did the typical mods. New back jaw made from large piece of angle, jack screw, and replaced the back handwheel. Few other minor adjustments and it cuts beautifully. Still need to make a table for it and build a cabinet to fit in the base for storage. This is a great saw if you have a bit of space. Definitely get a bi metal blade for it.


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## ClintNZ (Aug 29, 2022)

Anybody have a 1/2 hp 8x5" Hafco BS-5S model like this one?






This is from Machinery House / Hare & Forbes in NZ but no doubt available elsewhere in the world branded differently. Been thinking of getting a bandsaw & this looks like a good option. Bigger than I'd need for most jobs but being able to mitre cut 3" stock would be useful for me & the vertical option looks handy too.

Cheers
Clint


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## Dabbler (Aug 29, 2022)

+1 upvote on the King saw and stand like @great white has.  My friend bought one on online sale at 160$(!!), and we've used it extensively since.  A Milwaulkee it ain't, but it sure gets a lot of work done quickly.  If all you do is 20 cuts in a month, it will work fine.  A 4x6 dedicated saw works better, but takes more $ and room.


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## Ken from ontario (Aug 29, 2022)

ClintNZ said:


> Anybody have a 1/2 hp 8x5" Hafco BS-5S model like this one?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Clint, that bandsaw sounds like a good choice to me with the swivel base and all, the Canadian version of it  comes in two models, I only found one review for the one in your post,  with 4 stars.
 Here's a copy & paste of that review:
_
The only reason I didn't give it 5 stars was the plastic motor pulley cover. I had to cut it so it wouldn't rub against the pulley and belt. It was the greatest source of noise on the whole machine. My simple modification removed the rubbing and noise source. Otherwise, I can't say anything bad about this machine. It probably wouldn't be fancy enough for a professional machine shop, but for me it works great building Bobcat accessories, gates, and railings for my cabin. So far I've cut a lot of 1.25" pipe, 1" round bar, and 6x1/4" flat bar. It may not be as fast, but compared to a chop saw it's silent and there is no dust or sparks. I'd consider myself a heavy hobbyist user and have been using it almost daily for 2 months. Make sure you have an extra blade or two (I'm on my second blade). I've never used a metal band saw before and was pleasantly surprised._


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## DavidR8 (Aug 29, 2022)

slow-poke said:


> 2) Added a table to support longer stock
> 3) Made a table for vertical use that can be installed or taken off in 5 seconds


Do you have some pics of these mods?


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## gunsmither (Aug 29, 2022)

wachuko said:


> I bought this only due to space… when the shop is built I will get one of those floor standing  4”x6”.  But this one has been working great for me.
> 
> But for some stuff, I still go to the handheld bandsaw that I have.
> 
> ...


Nice job on the table wachuko. I have the Grizz version of this saw. Bit slow for Aluminum cutting, but works fine!


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## slow-poke (Aug 30, 2022)

great white said:


> I’m curious about that. Care to snap a pic and post it?


1) I replaced the top half of the vise with a piece of steel angle, not necessary but I wanted a wider jaw
2) I replaced the regular bolt with of those bicycle wheel quick release clamps so I don’t need a wrench when setting the angle to non parallel.
3) the shiny rod on the left side of the lower jaw can pass through a hole in the lower half of the vise, and is clamped with the funny looking grey lever on the LHS. This is really useful ( use it all the time) and worth every second it takes to fabricate because whenever you clamp a short piece of stock, because the vise jaw can pivot, it will and then the vise does not clamp well. To use the clamped rod:
a) extend the vise jaws
b) loosen the lever, and slide the rod forward until it touches the upper jaw
c) place the short piece of stock into the vise
d) tighten the jaws until just semi tight and parallel
e) clamp the rod with the grey lever, this prevents the jaws from becoming unparalleled when you clamp down the vise
f) tighten the vise good and tight.


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## slow-poke (Aug 30, 2022)

DavidR8 said:


> Do you have some pics of these mods?


if you look at this thread, there are a couple of images and a 10s video of the vertical use table being snapped in place

Thread '4x6 Quick Release table'
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/4x6-quick-release-table.95026/


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## DavidR8 (Aug 30, 2022)

Thanks @slow-poke!


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## Shotgun (Aug 30, 2022)

dbb-the-bruce said:


> Reducing a large 24" x 12" sheet of 1/4" AL can be tricky or impossible depending on how much you are trying to cut off.


I'd run that through the table saw.
Wear good ear protection.  Other than that, it runs just fine.


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## dbb-the-bruce (Aug 30, 2022)

Shotgun said:


> I'd run that through the table saw.
> Wear good ear protection.  Other than that, it runs just fine.


yeah, that's a good point. I have used specialty non-ferrous metal blades on table saws before. I should get setup so I can do it on my saw. 

Would have to be extra sure I disable the safety stop on my Saw Stop!


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## rwdenney (Aug 31, 2022)

dbb-the-bruce said:


> yeah, that's a good point. I have used specialty non-ferrous metal blades on table saws before. I should get setup so I can do it on my saw.
> 
> Would have to be extra sure I disable the safety stop on my Saw Stop!


I have a 3-HP Grizzly cabinet saw that cuts aluminum plate with ease. I've looked at those SawStop saws at Woodcraft, but they are spendy. Hopefully, I will continue to be careful enough.

Rick "always careful around saws" Denney


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## dbb-the-bruce (Aug 31, 2022)

rwdenney said:


> "always careful around saws"


Agreed. It's like airbags, will likely never fire but if it does I'll be glad it's there.
At the time of purchase, it was about $400 more than what I was looking at for a non-sawstop. I considered it a one time insurance policy payment that would be amortized over the next 20 years or more. Way cheaper than expensive surgery & rehab and I really need my hands for my job that pays the bills.


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## Charles scozzari (Aug 31, 2022)

rwdenney said:


> I can't think of any project I would undertake that would require cutting tubular stock bigger than 4" round or square, or solid stock bigger than 2", and this Grizzly "portable" with an accessory horizontal cutting frame seems to be able to do that. And it can be detached from the frame and used as a portable. Power seems pretty good--the 1HP claim is backed up by the 12.5-amp draw at 120VAC.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good morning, I have 2 Milwaukee portable bandsaws, 1- 4" and  1 - 6" capacity that I could not do without. These saw's are are well worth the money. The only negative is the blade length of 45" (+/-) that dull a little faster after repeated heavy cuts. That said, great for a home shop.


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## rwdenney (Sep 4, 2022)

So, I stopped by HF today (well, yesterday) to look at the 4x6 saw. I thought I could make it work and decided to buy it to take advantage of the Labor Day discount coupon. 




20% off the $369.95 price for the saw seemed tolerable. 

You saw this coming: First, the sales guy asked me what I was driving. “A Ford Expedition EL.” Nope, we have to load this with a forklift and you must be driving a pickup or have a trailer. Says I: “it’s 143 pounds shipping weight. Set it on the ground and I’ll figure it out.” Can they not imagine sliding it off the pallet forks of a forklift? It’s a two-man lift. I’m one of them. Do they not have a single capable person to can help load product?

Next: “I’d like to use the 25% coupon.” Okay, but you have to be in the club to get the extra 5%. “Fine, give me one year.” 

Next: I’m told it will be some amount over $400, in addition to the other stuff I was buying. Says I, “What about the coupon?”

Now, I’m pointed to the fine print on the coupon: “…cannot be used with Atlas, Bauer, Central Machinery, CoverPro, Hercules, Predator, compressors, generators, jacks, miter saws, safes, storage cabinets, carts, chests, and welders. … other restrictions apply.” Not that I can read that on the app, which is how they deliver coupons these days. 

Basically, the coupon does not apply to anything in the store that costs more than ten bucks. 

I’m usually a friendly guy who tries to be philosophical about things. HF is a store for marginal acquisitions, so one must control one’s expectations. And I try not to let annoyance prevent me from getting what I want. But they can _kiss my butt._ I left the other things I’d gathered up on the counter and walked out. 

Back to watching FB Marketplace and Craigslist. I’ll use a hacksaw before I’ll buy that saw from HF. And I think I’ll need about a year to regain peaceful equanimity before even walking into that store again. 

Rick “baited and switched for the last time” Denney


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## chip maker (Sep 4, 2022)

This is how these coupons have been for a few years now and your right just about useless for anything large only good for small items and only 1 of those so don't come out too much of a deal anymore. I used those a few times for larger stuff when you could use them on everything was a great deal. They must have gotten smart and now just don't offer much of a discount unless you buy into the club and even at that doesn't seem to be a great deal either. I just don't shop there as much as before but they still have some deals on some items. You will find a saw used but just need to keep an eye out for one. My saw is the older green one and bought it from a fellow who didn't use it much so was like new his biggest issue was the blades coming off was an easy fix after reading the owner's manual and some adjustments. Been a great saw and have done some of the mods to make it a bit better.


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## Aaron_W (Sep 4, 2022)

chip maker said:


> This is how these coupons have been for a few years now and your right just about useless for anything large only good for small items and only 1 of those so don't come out too much of a deal anymore. I used those a few times for larger stuff when you could use them on everything was a great deal. They must have gotten smart and now just don't offer much of a discount unless you buy into the club and even at that doesn't seem to be a great deal either. I just don't shop there as much as before but they still have some deals on some items. You will find a saw used but just need to keep an eye out for one. My saw is the older green one and bought it from a fellow who didn't use it much so was like new his biggest issue was the blades coming off was an easy fix after reading the owner's manual and some adjustments. Been a great saw and have done some of the mods to make it a bit better.



Every now and then they will put out one of the coupons that is actually worthwhile, but they sure weasel around with them. They had one at Memorial Day or 4th of July that could actually be used for some decent stuff. I picked up the metal shrinker / stretcher set which saved me around $30. Surprisingly that one was also allowed it to be used for welders and air compressors as I recall which could have been a nice savings but I didn't have a need for either. 

Most of the time though you spend 10 minutes reading the fine print to find it is only good for 20% off of trivial items.


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## Ischgl99 (Sep 4, 2022)

I had one of those Grizzly bandsaws when I first started and it was ok for a bit, but once I bought a 4x6 bandsaw, I never looked back.  It was very noisy and you have to be there to operate it.  It is fine for small diameter stock, but the first time you cut a 3” bar, you will be looking in the tool catalogs to see how quickly you can get something else.  The 4x6 saws can be run unattended, but make sure you do not use too aggressive a blade since it can stall the motor.  I burnt out a motor within the first month of owning it and not sure if it was a motor failure or I stalled it and fried the motor, but Grizzly covered it under warranty and it has been fine the last 17 years.


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