# Any Suggestions for South Bend Lathe Belts?



## Ulma Doctor

i got a synthetic belt on EBAY and i'm not ecstatic about it. 
i went in knowing it was a cheap belt, i had no other belt to get a length off. so, i used the string method to determine length.
 i didn't want to shell out a bunch for a belt of the wrong size.
luckily i was close enough, the adjusters can take up the error.
i'm considering another belt type and i'm trying to gather all the input i can get on what others have used.
Are there any suggestions?
Thanks in advance!


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## stevecmo

Doc,

I don't have a Southbend, but when I refurb'd my Logan I went with a ribbed automotive serpentine belt.  I had to take the spindle out since there is no splice in the belt, but that was part of the refurb anyway.  I have been very happy with the belt I used - actually ordered it from McMaster Carr.  One of the SB guys should be able to tell you the correct length belt for your lathe.

Hope that helps.

Steve


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## ScrapMetal

I just replaced the leather belt on my 11" SB with a "poly nitrile lace belt" from Al Bino Machining & Custom Flat Belts  I couldn't be happier with it.  It was cheaper than the leather option (he has those as well) and it feels like it will grip much better and last a life time (mine at least).  I've always had a laced belt (metal "loops") because of the ease of installation so that was a "no-brainer" for me.

I can take a picture of it tomorrow if anyone is interested.

-Ron


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## Ulma Doctor

thank you Ron for the input,
i would like to see pictures if you would post them that would be great!!

- - - Updated - - -



stevecmo said:


> Doc,
> 
> I don't have a Southbend, but when I refurb'd my Logan I went with a ribbed automotive serpentine belt.  I had to take the spindle out since there is no splice in the belt, but that was part of the refurb anyway.  I have been very happy with the belt I used - actually ordered it from McMaster Carr.  One of the SB guys should be able to tell you the correct length belt for your lathe.
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> Steve



thank you very much Steve, for the input!!!

- - - Updated - - -

I have a 63" belt of my South Bend Pre WWII 11"


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## Rick Leslie

I bought a flat replacement belt from Al Bino (yes, that's his real name) and it did OK for a while. I then got a used 'link belt' off the dot com auction (you know the place) and run it inverted. It won't slip, break or wear out. I won't go back to a flat belt! Something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACCU-Link-V...148?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b7891224


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## Ulma Doctor

excellent advise, thanks rick!


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## woodtickgreg

I just used a automotive serpentine belt, grippyer rubber. I went to gates belts web site and chose a width belt and length and then went to the auto parts store with the part number. They can be had for between $20 to$30. I purchased a belt that was a little longer than what I needed. I just cut it and drilled some wholes and stitched it with some braided wire for picture hanging, dacron fishing line or kevlar thread would work to. If I ever need to remove the belt all I have to do is cut the stitching and restitch it to put it back on. I have heard others talk about how grippy these belts are and they even run a lower tension for that reason. In my restore thread I have some pics of the belt and my failed glue methods.


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## fastback

Mike, 

I also used an automotive serpentine belt on my Heavy Ten.  In my case, it was a used belt from my truck.  At the time, I had a 01, F150 with a 5.4 L.  I figured I'd use an old belt so I would not be wasting money on a new belt if it did not work.  I did the glue method.  I allowed myself enough length so that I would have a 2.5 to 3 inch overlap.  One thing you need to do is use a hand grinder and taper each end so they are blended with each other.  To find the size I wrapped the belt around the pulleys as if it were being installed.  I bought the superglue from HD.  I spent a little time reading their labels and then just chose one.  I didn't know they made so many different types.  After gluing I did use some pieces of wood and clamped the joint over night to ensure the glue was dry.

Oh, I did buy a new belt so that I would be able to change it once this old one failed. This work was done back in 2011 and is still working now.  I still haven't installed the new belt.  Sorry, but I never took any pictures of the set up.  I guess because I never expected it to work.  The belt has excellent grab and bite you don't get slippage from the serpentine.  The nice thing about the rubber belt is you don't need to disengage it when not in use like leather, it won't stretch.

I won't say that this is the best set up I think that one piece would be the best way to go.  My setup has a little thump when the belt comes to the top of the pulley and the tracking could be a tad better, but as is it is definitely better then the original leather one.

Hope this helps.

Paul


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## Geek by 3

The previous owner of my 1946 South Bend Model C (9") had installed a serpentine belt, rib side in, stitched with picture hanging wire. When I acquired it, last fall, I noted that the wire fell apart from fatigue. Still, when I first installed it, that's what I used, 'cause it was there. It failed in about 50 hours of use.

For the fresh start, I turned the belt rib side out, cut the ribs off in the area of the stitching, and stitched with 50# test Spider Wire, braided Kevlar fishing line. I quadruple stitched it. This installation dates since Christmas--about three months--but has now run at least 200 hours, with no sign of weakening.

The grip is sufficient that the motor slows if I take a "heavy" cut. Of course, the lathe only has a 1/3 hp motor, so that's not saying much.


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## dmac

I put a serpintine belt on my 1947 heavy 10 about 5 years ago.
 I used ss wire with the ribs in so the wire doesn't hit while running.. 
Has a lot of use and have had no problems at all.


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## WillieP

When I bought my SB9 several years ago, it had a serpentine belt installed. In order to separate the drive motor from the lathe to move it, I ended up cutting it off rather than remove the spindle first. (I had to leave behind the wooden stand since it was literally falling apart.) I considered lacing the old, cut belt back on. But I ended up contacting Baltimore Belting:http://baltimorebelting.com/ I measured the length I would need and called. Leather was pretty expensive so I got a synthetic with end clips. Total price was around $30 delivered in a couple of days. It fit perfectly and I have been using it since. They have been around since 1902, so I figured they had made a few SB lathe belts before.


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## fastback

Oh, forgot to mention that I put the rib in.  I'll can tell you that on several occasions I have forgotten to disengage the back gear after removing the chuck, with both the back gear engaged and the lathe in direct drive all you hear is the blade squeal and if you don't stop it soon enough the belt will pop of the top sheave.  I am using a 3/4 hp motor.


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## Ulma Doctor

Thank you gentlemen for all of your suggestions, after doing a little more research i decided to try a serpentine belt on ebay.
i was able to get the correct size belt really cheap.
I chose a Goodyear belt 1.09" wide by 62.5" long Part # 8PK1590, the Part # 4080625 gives the same belt dimensions as well.
i was able to get the serpentine belt cheaper than the other belts listed as replacements for the SB lathes!!
thanks everyone for the help and suggestions!

thanks as always for looking!


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## ScrapMetal

Even though you chose the serpentine I did get a pic of my belt today, and darn it, I'm going to post it! :biggrin:




The belt is 1.5" wide and has a number of layers and is tough as nails.  It also has a rubbery-sticky feel to it and seems to grip beautifully.  You do hear a slight "tic - tic" as the belt goes around but I'm used to that.  If you don't like it you could probably put a piece of cloth tape on the underside and silence it.

Good luck with your belt choice.  Be sure to give us a follow-up on how it works out for you.

-Ron


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## AR1911

Rick Leslie said:


> I bought a flat replacement belt from Al Bino (yes, that's his real name) and it did OK for a while. I then got a used 'link belt' off the dot com auction (you know the place) and run it inverted. It won't slip, break or wear out. I won't go back to a flat belt! Something like this:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACCU-Link-V...148?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b7891224



This is what I am using also. Works fine


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## Ulma Doctor

i also picked up another goodyear belt p/n 10PK1600.
this belt is 1.38" wide as opposed to the 1.09" from the other belt i purchased.
i'll be able to test both belts and give an analysis!

once again thanks for all the input!!!
feel free to post your own pictures and comments, they may help someone else someday!
[h=1][/h]


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## woodtickgreg

wbrown said:


> While looking for a belt for my SB-16 I considered a quick fix using automotive 2" wide seatbelt material.  I cut a piece from some stock my wife was using to build waist belts for large internal frame backpacks.  I used a 12" overlap, glued it with shoe-Goo, clamped it using c-clamp type vise grips and 1/2" plywood pads. let i dry for a day or so.  It was put into service over a year ago, runs quiet, doesn't slip, and is still in service.  I use my SB-9 for small stuff but do miost of my turning on the SB-14.  I've turned up to 14" dia. with this belt with no problem.  I stopped looking for a replacement belt and have no intention of using anything different than the seat belt material



Interesting....who'd of thunk.....seat belt material......now that's inventive. Kinda McGyver'd it.


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## LW Hiway

As I was raised country in the deep South of La., you get good at being resourceful making do with what you have and can latch onto for a fair price or barter. 

Love the "seat belting" drive belt use, which is what I would call resourceful indeed. 

Over my lifetime, as I've always been around and tinkering with cars, trucks and equipment manufactured around the 1900's, being adept at working with leather for drive belts, fan and w/p's, leather clutches etc etc, you tend to stick with the old school train of thought. Cutting, trimming glueing and lacing leather just seems natural for me, but I'm not against taking a shortcut when it comes to getting something done when I'm in a bind and have no leather for the fix.

All good ideas on this thread.

Particularly, thanks for the link to "Al Binos" website. It will come in handy for a local project coming up for a Thrasher.


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## Jerry457

I had to same issue and bought something off eBAY. The pic vs the product didnt appear the same but it works.

As I live in a town in which there is a leather shop, I took my original belt to the lady at the shop and she will make me custom belt with the same dimensions as the original as well at link together. I will post a pic once its finished.

You may want to look around and see if there is a leather shop nearby were you live. It's amazing these machines are powered with leather belts.


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## LW Hiway

Jerry457 said:


> You may want to look around and see if there is a leather shop nearby were you live. It's amazing these machines are powered with leather belts.



I know I'm a new poster to the forum, but I'd like to give a little info on leather belting used for equipment. Back in the 80's a group of friends within the AACA and equipment crowd started heated discussions on using leather belting, how to join the ends, what worked best etc etc etc.

So I made a belt for one particular gent/friend that had an antique washing machine and antique gas engine driven by belting.

I cut the leather in 4 places, skived/scarfed joints on two each and butt joined two joints opposing the others. One pair were glued and stitched and the others just stitched, both using gut for the lacing. This little jewel has made about 40 shows over the years and the owner has since stopped carrying the canvas rubber impregnated belting he was so worried that he would need. The glues used were two different 'animal rendering' glues of different formula.

I know that the intent of this thread is about 'ease of application' and ease of accessing materials needed, but just wanted to sway anyone who's thought that something newer might somehow be more durable than the other.


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## mrbreezeet1

Ulma Doctor said:


> i also picked up another goodyear belt p/n 10PK1600.
> this belt is 1.38" wide as opposed to the 1.09" from the other belt i purchased.
> i'll be able to test both belts and give an analysis!
> 
> once again thanks for all the input!!!
> feel free to post your own pictures and comments, they may help someone else someday!



are you going to be pulling your spindle, or splicing this new belt?


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## Ulma Doctor

are you going to be pulling your spindle, or splicing this new belt?  [quote}



i'm going to be stitching the belt together with some heavy duty marlin type strength fishin' line.
i have considered a few ways to stitch and am leaning towards a 30* vee cut into the belts, then getting the stitching done.
i'm thinking of going flat side out, the v's in the gatorbelt should have adequate clearance to hide the stitching well.
i'm just cringing on cutting the belt, it goes against all my instincts and as well as my hypocritical :lmao: oath!!!

i'm up for just a comment or suggestion anytime!!


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## mrbreezeet1

what kind of SB lathe is this?
Is it an under drive mounted motor?
How hard is it to pull the spindle?



Ulma Doctor said:


> are you going to be pulling your spindle, or splicing this new belt?  [quote}
> 
> 
> 
> i'm going to be stitching the belt together with some heavy duty marlin type strength fishin' line.
> i have considered a few ways to stitch and am leaning towards a 30* vee cut into the belts, then getting the stitching done.
> i'm thinking of going flat side out, the v's in the gatorbelt should have adequate clearance to hide the stitching well.
> i'm just cringing on cutting the belt, it goes against all my instincts and as well as my hypocritical :lmao: oath!!!
> 
> i'm up for just a comment or suggestion anytime!!


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## Steven K

Go to your local tractor repair person.See if they have a lacer for repairing belts in a hay baler.Then see if they have any old hay baler belts.Then have them make you a belt.


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## Silverbullet

I have a couple lacers I've picked up over the years a few sizes of laces , not much leather belting but if any body near south Jersey ill lace your belt . Free if you need it to be . But any donation would work. They weren't cheap or free when I bought them , the laces aren't cheap either. But I'm offering to members .


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## bob308

I made a belt for my south bend out of a piece of pvc conveyor belt. it has been on the lathe for 10 years now with no problems.


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## fradish

Though I no longer use my South Bend 9C as my "primary" lathe, I switched over to a serpentine
belt stitched together with "alligator" clipping a while ago.  This was a huge improvement over the
leather belt that was similarly stitched.  I got mine through Amazon, I think it was this belt:

*Bando 6PK1525 OEM Quality Serpentine Belt*

I realize that many people prefer seamless belts or glued belts, but this one has held up for me for over
a year of light duty.  I don't mind the click-click of metal lacing, and as I mentioned I don't use this lathe
as much as I used to.


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## seasicksteve

This company may offer some products that would work
http://www.habasit.com/en/power-transmission-belts.htm
I used this belting on a reid surface grinder it worked very well for me


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