# What To Do Before Firing Up The Bridgeport For The First Time



## Vladymere (Jun 11, 2015)

Gentlemen,

I have a series 1 Bridgeport mill that has been in storage for about 10 years, the first nine years with the head turned upside down.  I did not run it before purchasing this mill.

I had the table and saddle off to clean the Z screw and gears and the X and Y screws and nut assembly as well as the saddle and table.  All was pretty clean inside as if it had been rebuilt at one time and not used much before the previous owner died.

It also had a horrible coat of paint on it which I am sure the previous owner did not do but perhaps a machine re-builder did.  It was obvious that it was painted while the machine was fully assembled.

My thoughts are to fill the oil cups and lubricate the head as prescribed, let it sit a day and then fire it up to see and hear how it runs.  I did not run it before purchasing this mill.

Would you experienced users do anything different?

TIA,

Vlad


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## coolidge (Jun 11, 2015)

I would spend 10 or 15 minutes in my small office taking care of business...just in case something goes horribly wrong.


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## Vladymere (Jun 11, 2015)

Good idea Coolidge.

I think I answered my own question though.  The spindle turns freely but the quill gets stiff to move the lower down it gets and the back speed clutch is stuck, unable to turn it.  Guess I ought to sort these issues out first.

Any thoughts as to why the quill gets stiff to move?

Vlad


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## Karl_T (Jun 11, 2015)

The belt is likely to have a serious set in it. Might help to turn it by hand so the part on the pulleys is now straight and leave it a while.  If you have a VFD running it very slow for a while would help.


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## JimDawson (Jun 11, 2015)

That seems reasonable.  Start at low speed, and let it run for a bit to warm up.  Maybe 10 minutes in both FOR and REV just to make sure the spindle bearings get lubed.

The quill issue is probably lack of lubrication.  I would use some light oil in the rear oil cup, and refill several times, you really can't over oil it.  From there is just runs down into the well around the top of the quill.  Then work the quill up and down a lot, it will probably loosen up.

Defiantly fix the back gear clutch, probably lubrication also, light oil again until you get it loosened up.


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## Vladymere (Jun 11, 2015)

No VFD but I will set the belt for the lowest speed and have it in back gear also.

Vlad


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## Rangemaster1 (Jun 11, 2015)

Might be a good idea to run the motor without a belt for a while just to be sure it's OK.


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## Vladymere (Jun 12, 2015)

Rangemaster1,

Another good idea.  I will do so.

Vlad


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## Vladymere (Jun 12, 2015)

I read in a thread last night that the four head clamping nuts should be torqued to 25 foot pounds and that if over tightened they can distort the head casting causing the quill to bind.  This morning I checked to see if this is my issue with the quill sticking at the bottom of it's travel.  This was not my issue so the head is coming apart.  I've already started the process.

Vlad


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## Silverbullet (Jun 12, 2015)

You could put a little kerosene in the oil cups first let sit overnite then add the oil it calls for. Let sit a few hrs to push thru any loosened up thick gunk. The let her warm up slowly . Even loosen the belt so it can slip just in case during first run. It should loosen up if not then tear it down the kero will help clean anyway.


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## Vladymere (Jun 13, 2015)

I have the head disassembled.  I did the disassembly with the head on the mill.  I have not disassembled the motor assembly nor inspected it accept to turn the motor and it turns nicely.  Nor have I disassembled the belt housing assembly and the gear housing assembly.  These assemblies also spin nicely but the belt housing does have a rattle in it when you shake it and it looks like the toothed belt may be riding low as there are some wear marks on the casting from the belt.

I have quill housing completely disassembled into all of it's small parts and removed from the ram.  To remove the quill I had to take it up through the top of the quill housing as trying to slide it out of the bottom of the quill housing, per the disassembly instructions, would cause it to bind about 3/4s of the way through.  It looks like I will have to find the interference points on the quill exterior and quill housing interior in order to get the quill to slide freely in the housing.

I did find that the quill felt washer was shredded and that the metal ring that supports the felt washer was missing.  The quill skirt fastening tabs seem to be mangled also.  The screws that retain the quill skirt where of two different types. bolts and tried moving the ram back and forth.      

With the head removed I did loosen the ram lock and cranked the ram back and forth.  The ram did move without issue.  I also tried the nod feature.  It moved just fine as well.

I believe this mill had bee rebuilt before the previous owner purchased it or by the previous owner.  What happened to the quill though I don't know.

Vlad


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## Vladymere (Jun 14, 2015)

I worked on getting the quill to pass through the quill housing today.  I polished the inside of the quill housing with some 320 wet and dry followed by 400 wet and dry and then 600 wet and dry sandpaper.  I also polished the quill but when done and the quill lubed the quill would still bind.  I tried marking the quill with magic marker but was unable to identify the problem.  I finally layed a straight edge along the length of the quill at multiple points and found a at the  high spot right below where the quill stop knob mounts.  This I was able to remove with a stone and then polishing with the multiple grits of wet and dry sandpaper.  This took care of the problem.

Vlad


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