# New (to me) Logan 821



## dlinva (Jun 18, 2020)

Just picked up a Logan 821 (long bed version of the 820) after Memorial Day from a tech school shop teacher. He had acquired it from the original owner who (supposedly) didn't use it much. Had to disassemble to get it into my 4Runner, but the wife and I managed. Have it home and just now starting to do some work on it. Intent is (while it is apart), to clean, re-paint and then re-assemble. Will post pictures when I get a chance. The only thing I have found so far is the wiring on the motor (original 1/2 hp Peerless with start capacitor) is pretty shot. Ordered some new cable and almost have it re-wired. This site is a wealth of information!


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## dlinva (Jul 27, 2020)

So while it is still apart, contemplating upgrading to a QCTP. I have found Phase 2, Shars, Amazon...are there any real differences between these that someone knows about? Something I should be wary of. They all look pretty similar...so much that they could be the same overseas supplier. Any help would be appreciated!


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## JRaut (Jul 27, 2020)

Of the Aloris/Dorian type QCTP, there are essentially two different variants that you'll see: the wedge style and the piston style. The overall geometry of both are essentially the same, and the tool holders are interchangeable.

The wedge style tool posts lock the tool holders by (surprise, surprise) a wedge moving up and down within the dovetails, essentially changing the size of the dovetail.

The piston style works by a piston being pushed out into the back of the tool holder, locking it against the dovetails.

The wedge style is largely regarded as superior (all else equal), as it provides a more positive locking mechanism and maintains more of the precision surfaces in contact when it's locked.

The wedge style usually run, I dunno, $20 or so more than their piston style counterparts in the 'A' or 'B' size, which is where I presume you're looking.

When I bought mine a few years ago, I saved the $20 and got the piston style. I wish I hadn't. Just toss in the extra $20 and get the the wedge style.

(It should be obvious, but one of the Phase 2/Shars/Amazon variety won't be as high quality as an Aloris or Dorian. But those'll run you several more times the price of an import.)


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## CluelessNewB (Jul 27, 2020)

For the 821 you would want an AXA (100 series).   If you are considering Shars check eBay, they typically have them for a bit less there than on their own site.  On eBay they are  "discount_machine".   You will need to machine the "T" nut to fit your compound.  Logan also sells sets with the "T" nut already done.  https://store.lathe.com/q2303827.html


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## wa5cab (Jul 28, 2020)

On the subject of piston versus wedge type, it should be mentioned that the size and shape of the piston tends to determine how good it is compared to a wedge type.  The cheaper Chinese piston types tend to have a rather small cylindrical piston.  I would avoid them.  Also avoid anything with an aluminum instead of steel tool tool post.  But although no longer made and rather pricey when found, the first import on the market to compete with Aloris and Dorian was the Yuasa (Japanese).  It is a piston type but the piston is larger and rectangular on the end that pressed against the tool holders. I have had the complete set purchased new about 40 years ago and have never had any reason to regret the purchase.  As they use the same part numbers, for all of the tool holders except one, I've assumed that Yuasa must have sold the line to Shars some time in the past.


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## dlinva (Jul 29, 2020)

Thanks everyone! Good tip on looking for Shars products on eBay. Hadn't thought of that. I did already buy a live center from Shars and thought the quality seemed pretty good (obviously haven't used it yet with the lathe in pieces). Goal this weekend is to get the legs, chip pan and bed supports put back together. Have the saddle apart right now, need to do a bit of priming/painting, then that can go back together.


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## dlinva (Jul 30, 2020)

Another question. Going to start working on the headstock soon. The belt that came with the lathe is shot. I have seen other threads for replacement belts, to include Logan, but wonder about an endless belt that would require the spindle to be removed. Not afraid to remove the spindle, but is there subsequent alignment issues when putting it back together? Without having taken it apart, I am just leary if there is slop (for lack of a better word) in the system that depends on how it goes back together. If not, the procedure in the manual for removal seems simple enough. Hoping that the bearings are good based on the amount of use this particular lathe had (according to previous owner), but would still like to flush and repack.


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## dlinva (Jul 30, 2020)

Oh, and one more thing. Will get some pictures posted this weekend of legs and chip pan. Appreciate everyone's help!


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## ShagDog (Jul 30, 2020)

If, as you say, you are going to " flush and repack" the bearings, you might as well replace the belts, because you are probably going to have to take the spindle off to do a thorough job. My new to me Select Lathe 816B bearings were running pretty warm, until after I removed the spindle and cleaned and repacked the taper roller bearings. Also added the new belts while I was at it.  Not sure if my 816b is anything like your Logan, as far as the headstock insides are concerned.


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## dlinva (Aug 1, 2020)

ShagDog said:


> If, as you say, you are going to " flush and repack" the bearings, you might as well replace the belts, because you are probably going to have to take the spindle off to do a thorough job. My new to me Select Lathe 816B bearings were running pretty warm, until after I removed the spindle and cleaned and repacked the taper roller bearings. Also added the new belts while I was at it.  Not sure if my 816b is anything like your Logan, as far as the headstock insides are concerned.



ShagDog: What belts did you use? Would be interested in hearing from folks on what they think works best. Set up the legs and pan today. Folks probably will beat me up for putting the Carr-Lane adjustable feet on a 4x4, but needed to raise the lathe up some. If this proves problematic down the road, will do something different. Almost have the bed stands painted, so they will go on next. Paint is "Gloss Silver Gray", Rustoleum 7400 enamel with the corresponding primer. I like this better than the darker blue-gray that was the factory original.


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## ShagDog (Aug 1, 2020)

dlinva said:


> ShagDog: What belts did you use? Would be interested in hearing from folks on what they think works best. ...



I just used some regular "v" belts (Bando Power King) from my local bearing store. Whether they work best, I don't know. But; my lathe works much smoother now with the new belts. J


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## dlinva (Sep 8, 2020)

Disassembled the quick change gear box over the weekend. Question for folks: grease or oil? All the gears are in really good shape, shape of the teeth seems to indicate the lathe had very little use. Did see that there was a fair bit of old, dried grease on most of the gears. Once cleaned up and ready to put back together, do I grease them or oil them? Thanks!


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## Janderso (Sep 8, 2020)

Without pics?


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## ShagDog (Sep 8, 2020)

Does your QCGB have an oiler on top?


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## wa5cab (Sep 8, 2020)

Assuming from the way that you worded the question that the GB does not have a sump and either an oil pump or splash lubrication, As ShagDog was thinking, if the GB has either a central place or multiple individual places for injecting oil, and if the only way to replace all grease every month is disassembly, then definitely oil.  Grease will eventually dry out, with Murphy's law guaranteeing that where it dries will block at least some of the fresh oil from getting to where it needs to be.


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## dlinva (Sep 8, 2020)

No pics, sorry. At this point would be a box of parts. Also not sump or splash lubrication. Will need to look at it tonight to see if there are 1 or more oil injection ports. Will try to post a picture of the quick change housing also.


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## CluelessNewB (Sep 8, 2020)

From The Manual: 





*Also check out the FAQ which has recommendations for types and brands:  *

http://www.lathe.com/faq/index.html#_Toc95180285


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## dlinva (Sep 8, 2020)

Here are pics of the QCGB (disassembled). No oil ports...


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## ShagDog (Sep 8, 2020)

I'm still kinda leaning toward oil, especially if it can be squirted into the various holes in the box and reach all the gears. However, I really don't know. You might want to try to contact Logan Actuator Co. They may be able to tell you, and they might have a manual available.


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## CluelessNewB (Sep 8, 2020)

Here are some pictures of the QCGB on my early 820 showing the location of the Gits oilers.  The gearbox changed after serial number 46561, the later gearbox doesn't list any oil cups.  I would still use oil for the bronze bushings.  




	

		
			
		

		
	
.


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## dlinva (Sep 9, 2020)

CluelessNewB - my 821 is #49116, so it looks like I have no oilers. Although given the position of the oilers it looks like they are really for the bearings, not necessarily all the gears


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## CluelessNewB (Sep 9, 2020)

I use Mobile Vactra 2 Way Oil on the gears, it's a bit more sticky than the light  Mobile Velocite #10 Spindle Oil I use for the bearings.   Some people use open gear lube for the gears.  The previous owner of my lathe used some type of heavy grease on the gears but that seemed to attract and hold too much swarf.


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## dlinva (Sep 9, 2020)

I have Vactra 2 - thanks for the advice!


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## Manual Mac (Sep 11, 2020)

I raised my SB9 on 4x4s years ago. Headstock spindle center is 45” from floor. Much easier on the back. BTW I am 5’9.5” tall.
I suspect you will not need the cross 4x4 on the bottom, mine has not needed it in 20 or so yrs, I suspect our machines weigh about the same. Or the x4 shelf support as you will want to sweep under lathe or put misc steel there.
Have fun with your new lathe.


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## dlinva (Sep 11, 2020)

Thanks for that Manual Mac! I am 5'11" and could tell that it was going to be too low. I always overbuild things (thanks to my wife for that) so put in the cross brace. Thinking of storing extra chucks and other items on the shelf. Still haven't broached with the boss where the steel/aluminum/etc. will go!


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## Manual Mac (Sep 11, 2020)

Dlinva, I like your adjustable feet recessed into the 4x4 idea. I think I might do that to mine.
And I am actually 5’8.5 tall. Typo. 
And 45” spindle center works for me.
Cheers, Steve


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## dlinva (Oct 29, 2020)

CluelessNewB said:


> From The Manual:
> 
> View attachment 336275
> View attachment 336276
> ...


So in reference to #8 above, should the two apron halves have some kind of sealant between them when I put the halves back together in order to keep oil in the bottom of the apron? Or will the machined surfaces of the two halves be enough of a seal for oil trying to leak out?


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## CluelessNewB (Oct 30, 2020)

I did not use any sealant, it leaks a bunch.  Someday... maybe I will take it apart and use some of that blue gasket maker.  For now it has a sheet pan to contain the mess.


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## Shiseiji (Nov 1, 2020)

They were factory assembled without sealant.  Neither of the two 820's I've owned have leaked.  I've seen this question batted around for years. YMMV, some do, some don't.


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## dlinva (Nov 6, 2020)

Just got the headstock (mostly) apart, still working on the back gear shaft. Thinking about using a Fenner PowerTwist (https://www.fennerdrives.com/powertwist-drive/) for the drive belt. Can anyone help me with the many versions of these belts. Which one should I be looking at? I am guessing they are different profiles but since I would be using one of these in place of the standard flat belt I am not clear on what to use. Any help would be appreciated.


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## dlinva (Feb 21, 2021)

Finally have been able to get back to this. COVID in December (still can't taste or smell anything). Been making good progress on the Logan 821 (#49116). Have the motor and a few other smaller things to put back on.


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## Nogoingback (Feb 21, 2021)

Looks great!  You'll be making chips in no time.


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