# South Bend Lathe 9 Need an opinion of drilling the carriage for a left side follow rest.



## woodchucker (Mar 12, 2022)

I need to do a long thread 2.6 inches on 1/4 O1. I decided I need a follow rest to cut it correctly, and evenly.  The SB is drilled on the right. I want to build a follow rest on the left where the threading is occurring. Any reason I should not drill OR put the follow rest on the left?
Looking to do it tomorrow, so looking for some quick opinions.

Thanks.


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## Shootymacshootface (Mar 12, 2022)

Also interested.


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## mickri (Mar 13, 2022)

My limited experience with a follow rest is that you want the rest lined up as close as you can with the tool bit.  I don't think that it matters if it is to the left or right side of the tool post.  If they are off by even a couple of inches the work will bend.   That was  my experience turning a 15" long .75 OD stainless steel.


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## rabler (Mar 13, 2022)

Not familiar with SB’s in particular, but it seems to me that L vs R follow rest is just a matter of clearance working by the chuck vs tailstock


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## SLK001 (Mar 13, 2022)

The follower rest minimizes the lift from cutting on a long, thin object.  Since the lift will be identical on the left or the right, the user will have to decide on if he needs the most clearance on the headstock end (so mount on the right side) or if he needs the most clearance on the tailstock end (so mount on the left side).  Personally, I would stick with what was provide, since the SB follower is offset to the left for right side mounting.  If you have a follower (from most likely another manufacturer) that is offset to the right, then you probably should mount it from the left.


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## jcp (Mar 13, 2022)

I did a 8mm x 1.0p x 10" thread a week ago on my 9A. Used the standard follow rest position but could not get the compound/tool post (AXA post) in position just behind the steady. I ended up using my original lantern post with an Armstrong 0R holder to be able to set the compound to 29 degrees and get the cutting tool in the proper position to the tail stock side of the follow rest. Worked out great with that setup.


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## woodchucker (Mar 13, 2022)

SLK001 said:


> The follower rest minimizes the lift from cutting on a long, thin object.  Since the lift will be identical on the left or the right, the user will have to decide on if he needs the most clearance on the headstock end (so mount on the right side) or if he needs the most clearance on the tailstock end (so mount on the left side).  Personally, I would stick with what was provide, since the SB follower is offset to the left for right side mounting.  If you have a follower (from most likely another manufacturer) that is offset to the right, then you probably should mount it from the left.


I am making a follower for my immediate needs.


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## woodchucker (Mar 13, 2022)

jcp said:


> I did a 8mm x 1.0p x 10" thread a week ago on my 9A. Used the standard follow rest position but could not get the compound/tool post (AXA post) in position just behind the steady. I ended up using my original lantern post with an Armstrong 0R holder to be able to set the compound to 29 degrees and get the cutting tool in the proper position to the tail stock side of the follow rest. Worked out great with that setup.


That's the problem with the original.  I need the cutter and support lined up because of the size of the rod, and a normal center won't fit close if it's behind the travel.  your 8mm is close to my 1/4 inch. So you understand.


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## benmychree (Mar 13, 2022)

jcp said:


> I did a 8mm x 1.0p x 10" thread a week ago on my 9A. Used the standard follow rest position but could not get the compound/tool post (AXA post) in position just behind the steady. I ended up using my original lantern post with an Armstrong 0R holder to be able to set the compound to 29 degrees and get the cutting tool in the proper position to the tail stock side of the follow rest. Worked out great with that setup.


That works well, but you can also just turn the QC tool holder around so that one of the dovetails face to the right to mount the tool right under the FR jaw or very near to it, this does make the locking handle sit in an inconvenient location, but I just remove it temporarily.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Mar 13, 2022)

I did that before I reassembled my wide 9. Can't remember if I used the drill press or did it by hand, but I carefully lined up the drill in the existing holes and drilled through from the tailstock side, then tapped for the same thread (1/4-20?) from the headstock side. Haven't used my follow rest yet, so couldn't offer an opinion, just figured it was worth doing while I had everything apart.


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## woodchucker (Mar 13, 2022)

benmychree said:


> That works well, but you can also just turn the QC tool holder around so that one of the dovetails face to the right to mount the tool right under the FR jaw or very near to it, this does make the locking handle sit in an inconvenient location, but I just remove it temporarily.


well, since I don't have a follow rest, making one to do that , vs putting it where it works is what I was tossing around.
John, do you see any reason not to move it to the left side?


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## jcp (Mar 13, 2022)

benmychree said:


> That works well, but you can also just turn the QC tool holder around so that one of the dovetails face to the right to mount the tool right under the FR jaw or very near to it, this does make the locking handle sit in an inconvenient location, but I just remove it temporarily.


That was the first option I tried. I was stymied by the available material length. When rigged out as you suggest there was insufficient clearance of the tool post and the chuck jaws to get the necessary length of thread.


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## woodchucker (Mar 15, 2022)

Well I did it. I drilled the carriage. I only had one good 3/4 end mill, my 7/8 does not fit my ER32 collets so I went with that. I created 2 flats because of the tapered casting, then drill for 5/16 - 18.. same as the right side.  Then I went about cutting up a 6061 sheet of 1/4 aluminum that I have. The Jig saw blade galled up even with WD40, probably too host.. I couldn't use my circ saw in the basement, I have some woodworking projects that I can't splatter.. So small milwaukee band saw, that unfortunately does not have enough throat for large cuts, so I did small cuts and brazed the aluminum together.


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## woodchucker (Mar 15, 2022)




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## jcp (Mar 15, 2022)

Looks good to me. You got where you wanted to go….that’s what matters.


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## woodchucker (Mar 15, 2022)

Yep, It's going to get the screws done for the customer. Unfortunately, it was more work than I though it would be.  I really need a better way to cut this 4 foot by 2
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 foot piece of Aluminum without splattering the entire basement with aluminum chips.

Also a lot of mis-steps... holding the screws on the dome ... no go.. they need a center.  So instead of 1 op, more like  4 ops. Not finished with them.


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## Shootymacshootface (Mar 16, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> Yep, It's going to get the screws done for the customer. Unfortunately, it was more work than I though it would be.  I really need a better way to cut this 4 foot by 3 foot piece of Aluminum without splattering the entire basement with aluminum chips.
> 
> Also a lot of mis-steps... holding the screws on the dome ... no go.. they need a center.  So instead of 1 op, more like  4 ops. Not finished with them.


Nice job on the follower rest. Not time wasted at all. You just made yourself more capable. 
Right now I am using a chip shield that just sits on the table of my mill. I plan to install a transparent shower curtain around my entire knee mill to help keep the shop clean.


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## Alcap (Mar 16, 2022)

I watched your video and trying to learn how a follower rest works/set-up . Did you have to thread a bit then adjust the wheels and I’m assuming that they have to be adjusted the same on each cut ?


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## woodchucker (Mar 16, 2022)

Alcap said:


> I watched your video and trying to learn how a follower rest works/set-up . Did you have to thread a bit then adjust the wheels and I’m assuming that they have to be adjusted the same on each cut ?


The size of the rod is 1/4 it's a tight tolerance O1 rod. So I don't have to remove any material to dimension it.  If I did, I would turn the bearing holder over, and keep the bearings on the previously dimensioned side (left) and follow behind.  My follower is only providing support for the rod against the tool, not a top support.

The way I am using it is the tool and bearings align. So I get maximum support, it's amazing how much better it is. The rod does not move away, so it is extremely consistent all the way across this very long thread.  I'll provide more pics, I was in a rush yesterday, and today has a full schedule too.


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## ericc (Mar 16, 2022)

Looks great.  It fits in well with the quick change tool post.  I have the standard follower rest, and it contacts in the wrong place for the Aloris style tool post.  So, I forged a lantern tool post, rocker, ring and one Armstrong tool holder to make the one cut.  It lined up just great, and worked fine for making the thread.  I guess I could have drilled new holes, but I already had the follower.


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## SLK001 (Mar 16, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> My follower is only providing support for the rod against the tool, not a top support.



Your double bearing support system _*does *_provide for top support.  Without adequate top support, your work would have a tendency to climb op over your tool, especially for such a long and thin workpiece.


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