# South Bend Heavy 10 restoration



## Thoro

This will be the beginning of my documentation of a South Bend heavy 10 that I acquired on Christmas eve.  This is the first South Bend I have owned and am excited about it.  I am going to try to be proactive here and share my adventure with it rather than sit back and read while I fix it up in the shadows of lurkville, time premitting.  

It originally was in a Vo-tech school, then put in dry storage for some time and after that a student from that school purchased it and took it home.  The school had removed a few parts that I assume they needed before they sent it with the student. The student who is now a man reaching retirement age is who I bought it from.  From what I can tell it is about 1941 vintage.  Single tumble gear box.  Small bore spindle.  10R

Here it is just after unloading it.  I put the 2x's and casters on it before it ever touched the ground.  Sure makes moving it around a tight shop for various tasks easier. 



My plan is to restore it. To what extent is something I haven't decided yet.  The ways have the classic nicks near the head stock, but they are mostly on the flat and tail stock way, not the carriage way.  Not much significant wear on the carriage ways that I have identified yet, no wear ridge.  It's definitely a used machine though, and that's what makes me question to myself as far as what extent I want to restore it, because I am planning on fixing this one up and replacing an Atlas lathe that I currently own and using it.  I do like the luxury of having a working lathe already so I am not in an extreme rush to get this one going and would like to make it nice, because I can.

Here is the gear cover model plate.



Here is the serial number on the ways.  Not sure what the D.W.W is.  I'm guessing it may be the school's stamping?  



It was missing the primary gear on the gear box.  As well as the sliding gear.  In this picture I have taken the banjo off, but I do have it.  Just missing the sliding gear.



The apron was missing the star knob and screw retaining screw for the star knob.



What appears to be a shop / student made large dial conversion (more on that later, as it is going to cause me much confusion down the road with this restoration)



Those are most of the missing pieces/oddities I have found so far except for every single gitts oiler being missing or smashed except for the head stock cups.

That should get things up to speed as far as the condition that I found it in, pretty much.  I have already started stripping parts and cleaning things up so I will post up some progress shots and such on that.  

I'm going to need all the advice I can get.


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## Thoro

Getting even more up to speed here.

As soon as I could, I got hot on the trail for a few of the parts that I was in need of, at least the parts that I could see right off the bat.

I was able to track down a star knob, primary gear, and 12 gitts oilers all from the same fellow.

I forgot to mention that none of the gears that I have seen so far have been broken.  I will update on the condition of the gearbox once I get it off the lathe and expose it's soft underbelly.

Also, my intention is to convert this to a 10L which I have already acquired a spare head stock and spindle for.  That's a whole different ballgame from this post, but thought it worth mentioning.  

I was surprised how fast after a few days of me putting my feelers out for parts that they just started coming out of the wood work.

Primary gear.  Had to make the nut as I forgot to ask the gentleman I purchased it from if he had one.  So I turned down a 5/8 x 11 (I think it is 11) nut to give it a skinnier profile, like the original one.



Star knob.  I was not able to get the left hand screw for it, so if anyone might have one laying around, I'd be interested.  Or if at least someone could get me the dimensions of it as well as the thread pitch, I would be grateful, so as to make it myself.


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## woodtickgreg

Subscribed! I love a good restore thread, this will be fun.


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## Thoro

woodtickgreg said:


> Subscribed! I love a good restore thread, this will be fun.



Thanks!  I'm really excited about this.  The fellow I got the parts from was Dave, you may know, because he mentioned your restoration to me which led me to here, and also i had seen before while doing research and found some of your youtube videos on, which really impressed me.  So the piece came together after connecting with him.  That's what I mean when I say I don't know to what extent I will restore this because it seems your's was in much better shape than mine to begin with, but, you know the saying, "if it's worth doing, the it's worth doing right" and I'm the kind of guy that has a hard time half doing things.


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## GK1918

I was always lead to beleive the D.W.W. was probably  the inspectors stamp of approval,  dont know, mine says  J.F.P.


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## RandyM

Thoro said:


> I am going to try to be proactive here and share my adventure with it rather than sit back and read while I fix it up in the shadows of lurkville, time premitting.



Perfect, we love your attitude. :thumbsup: You have a great machine and it will be fantastic to watch your progress as it be comes another HM masterpiece. Thank you for posting.


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## Thoro

GK1918 said:


> I was always lead to beleive the D.W.W. was probably  the inspectors stamp of approval,  dont know, mine says  J.F.P.




That's interesting.  I didn't consider it was an inspector stamp.  I wonder if anyone else has a D.W.W stamped, like mine, or a J.F.P like your's?


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## Thoro

*My weapon of choice against rust and old paint*

So far for the larger parts and parts with intricate ins and outs or machined surfaces, my weapon of choice has been electrolysis to remove rust, grease and paint.  For the smaller parts I will just run them under the wire wheel if it's a sensible situation.  I like the electrolysis though, because I can just set up a batch of parts and come back the next morning to find the paint ready to peel off by hand.

Apron with handwheel before electrolysis.



Apron hand wheel after an overnight bath.



Peels right off by hand.



A little bit of elbow grease with the scotchbrite pad and it's pretty much ready for paint.  I don't think I'll do much polishing to parts past this stage.  I kind of like the idea of leaving a little bit of "patina" left.



Other parts cleaned and ready to go.



Gear cover after a night in the tank.  That would have been a lot of time and mess with the wire wheel and sand paper!



After.  Still has a few spots that the paint was tenacious enough to survive 24 hrs in the tank.  Will touch those spots up by hand.



Word of warning.  Don't leave aluminum in the tank, for long, if at all.  I didn't realize that the pulley cover was aluminum and it spent 24 hours in the tank, it got very pitted which I am very frustrated and bummed about.  I should have checked, but everything else on these things are cast iron!  I guess they chose to make this cover aluminum so it would't crack under opening / closing (slamming)?  Live and learn I guess.



That's about it for now.  Just wanted to share my preference for the age old "how will I clean this part up??" quandary.

Thanks for looking


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## Thoro

*Brass tags*

Still trying to get up to speed with everything I have done so far.

Next is simple.  Cleaned up the brass tags on the rear gear cover.  saw this recently and really liked it.  I wish I could remember who I saw writing and sharing this technique so I could give the credit.  Simply spray the whole tag with some kind of paint that thins with mineral spirits.  I used rustoleum professional gloss black.  The carefully wipe off the raised letters and areas.  Took me two tries because I wiped too hard the first time, so i had to respray and start over with a much more gentle approach after wiping off the background in some large spots.  I was fun and very satisfying results though.

Before



After (needs a tiny little bit of touch up)


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## GK1918

Thoro said:


> That's interesting.  I didn't consider it was an inspector stamp.  I wonder if anyone else has a D.W.W stamped, like mine, or a J.F.P like your's?




Well thats just my educated guess on that, howerver Our other S.Bend just has an "A"  so thats what I think.  Those 'red sticks' used with
that sizzle buff wheels do an excellent job - just like chrome, BUT, you will need a weekly chrome polish job, or maybe clear coat, but I
think clear coating is more of a pain.  Nice find their Thoro

sam


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## Thoro

GK1918 said:


> Well thats just my educated guess on that, howerver Our other S.Bend just has an "A"  so thats what I think.  Those 'red sticks' used with
> that sizzle buff wheels do an excellent job - just like chrome, BUT, you will need a weekly chrome polish job, or maybe clear coat, but I
> think clear coating is more of a pain.  Nice find their Thoro
> 
> sam



I'm not sure I am familiar with the red sticks you speak of. Can you further explain? 
Thanks


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## Retired1997

I believe he means the "red" polishing compound sticks or rouge, which is a fine polishing compound in stick form that you dress the buffing wheel with.  You need to use separate buffing wheels for each polishing compound so they don't cross contaminate.  The sticks come in different grades of polishing compound.  The ones I had were white, red (actually a maroon color), and black.  I don't remember if there was a 4th stick or not.  Hope this helps.

Nice lathe by the way.  Good luck with restoration.


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## Thoro

Retired1997 said:


> I believe he means the "red" polishing compound sticks or rouge, which is a fine polishing compound in stick form that you dress the buffing wheel with.  You need to use separate buffing wheels for each polishing compound so they don't cross contaminate.  The sticks come in different grades of polishing compound.  The ones I had were white, red (actually a maroon color), and black.  I don't remember if there was a 4th stick or not.  Hope this helps.
> 
> Nice lathe by the way.  Good luck with restoration.




Oh, ok.  Yes I am familiar with that.  I am assuming he speaks of the aluminum pulley cover when guys polish them....makes more sense now though.

Thanks, by the way.  I need all the luck i can get!


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## Pacer

Thoro said:


> That's interesting.  I didn't consider it was an inspector stamp.  I wonder if anyone else has a D.W.W stamped, like mine, or a J.F.P like your's?



My 1944 Heavy 10 had the D.W.W. stamped on it. I have never seen anything that seemed to be a definitive answer on these stampings - from an inspector stamp to an assembly line to connections for the war effort - (which by the way seemingly the war years had these on them) Thoro, more than likely your lathe is a "war board" tool and had, or still has a badge - maybe still hid. 

On my Heavy the S/N was 148258 and was mfg on 4/8/1944 and had a war board plate on it, so your guess at 1941 on yours should be close.


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## Chuck K

Thoro said:


> I'm not sure I am familiar with the red sticks you speak of. Can you further explain?
> Thanks




I've never tried using the buffing sticks on lathe parts, but I do use a 3M deburring wheel mounted on my pedestal grinder.  It will turn solid rusted handwheels into shiny new in minutes. They are also nice to debur edges after machining.  Kind of pricey but they last forever. Nice find on the lathe.

Chuck


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## ScottieB

Nice job on the tags. I will bank that technique for the future.


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## Thoro

Chuck K said:


> I've never tried using the buffing sticks on lathe parts, but I do use a 3M deburring wheel mounted on my pedestal grinder.  It will turn solid rusted handwheels into shiny new in minutes. They are also nice to debur edges after machining.  Kind of pricey but they last forever. Nice find on the lathe.
> 
> Chuck


I just acquired a brass 6" wire wheel from lumber liquidators for a grand total of 3 bucks. I thought even if it was worthless I didn't have much to lose.   It seems to brush to a brighter shine than a standard steel wheel and I like that it won't chew things up as easily, but I've found you still have to be careful.

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ScottieB said:


> Nice job on the tags. I will bank that technique for the future.



Thanks. I figured I would cut my teeth on the small tags before I tried to tackle the gearbox plate, which is currently very hard to read.


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## Kroll

Thoro your recondition badges look great,could you share your process on how you made them look sooooo perfect?Looking good----kroll


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## woodtickgreg

I agree, the badges look great. I did not do so well with mine so I just left them raw. You did great with yours!


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## Thoro

Kroll said:


> Thoro your recondition badges look great,could you share your process on how you made them look sooooo perfect?Looking good----kroll



Thank you.  Of course I can share what I did.

Mind you, I saw or read this technique somewhere else, so it's not mine, but the concept is simple and I just kind of adapted it how I saw fit.

First, my badges had no paint except for where someone got a bit happy with a paint brush and they were just a bit dingy, so cleaning the up wasn't too difficult.

Then I carefully hammered out a few dents in them that were on the edge with a rubber faced hammer.

Then I buffed them up by hand with a scotchbrite pad.

Once it was clean to my liking I layed them flat, face up and sprayed them with gloss black rustoleum professional.  (I wanted to do red on the sliding gear badge, cause I think it would have been more "warningish" but I didn't have any red and i didn't want to go out just for that)

I found that there was a sweet spot for drying time, because obviously if I didn't wait long enough, it made the process really hard to wipe off the embossed letters without bunging up the background, but if I waited too long, it got more and more difficult to get off the letters.  I would suggest just feeling it out for yourself, but wait a bit for it to dry at least.  Either way, you can't ruin it. If you end up totally messing up, get a rag with some mineral spirits, wipe the paint off and respray, or just spray over the first coat.

On to technique.  I like old cotton t-shirts as rags for almost everything because they don't leave a lot of lint.  So try to find yourself one to use.  Little bit of mineral spirits in a cup (doesn't take much)  dip a small corner of the rag, then kind of press the rag against it's self to make an area just damp.  I was just kind of folding up the rag to make a "sharp" edge with it and just started gently wiping the letters.  I found that if you wipe a bit and it wasn't coming off, the mineral spirits would work to soften up the paint and you could come back over it shortly and it would come off easier.  I liked the rag better when it was more dry, as it seemed easier to control.

You'll notice that it's nearly impossible to avoid touching the background and that it will also change the sheen.

If you have any areas of the background that are showing brass, spray some paint into the cap of the paint can and use a small brush to touch up those areas.

Last step is to very carefully wipe the entire badge, background and all, with the rag dampened with mineral spirits to even the sheen on the background.

Hope that's a clear enough explanation.  Let me know if you have any questions

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woodtickgreg said:


> I agree, the badges look great. I did not do so well with mine so I just left them raw. You did great with yours!



Thank you.  I replied to Kroll with my technique, if you care to read how it was done by me.  I debated on doing it, but I am very happy I did.


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## Thoro

*Cuss cuss!  How to fix.*

So, catching up a bit more here.  but I don't know if I will ever get caught up as I just spent 6 hours working on the lathe today....I need to give it a name I think.  

After a spell in the electrolysis tank, the rear guard/reservoir  on the apron (see pics.) came out looking like $100 dollars.  It was all greasy and grimy before. There wasn't a drop of oil in that apron, yet everything was still moving freely.  I'm impressed by that.  I am also in love with South Bend's lubrication solutions. Are there any other manufacturers that put as much thought into lubrication and how to cleverly get the oil in certain spots?

Back on topic.

Pulled the part out of the electrolysis tank and turned to a buddy of mine to show him how clean it was.  Swung around and said, "look at that, it was all greasy before and painted!"  and it slipped off the wire I had it hanging from for the process.  I was quick enough to stick my foot under it preventing it from going straight to the concrete floor, but it still did not survive completely.

Darn.

It was time to learn how to braze.  And starting on a thin piece of cast iron....Oh well.  I figured if I couldn't fix it, it wouldnt be the end of the world as the piece wasn't vital, but would just have been nice not to happen in the first place.

Picture time.

Before cleaning.






After cleaning/broken. 



I spoke with a local welding supply place.  The guy looked at me like I was crazy when I took the part in and showed him what I was trying to fix, and that I've never brazed anything before.  "Get out of my way, I'm gonna show YOU how to do it"  is what I said to him.  Kidding.  We decided that Harris Safety-silv 56 flux coated which I already had would be the best bet.  Low melting point compared to a bronze rod, and fine for this part as it is low/no stress or wear.

After brazing.






It took a few tries, but I am happy with the results.  It's not the prettiest, but it will do.  I am also glad to have this experience under my belt.

This project has yielded 2 brazing FIXES so far.  The next one which I have not mentioned yet.  And it is another part I stupidly broke.  Any guesses?


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## EricMenantico

*Re: Cuss cuss!  How to fix.*

Looking good bro, looking forward to seeing it done!


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## Thoro

*Fix # 2*

So.  I took apart the reversing gear lever.  Noticed the brass lever was a tad bit bent to one side.  So, goonishly I proceeded to bend it back, ever so slightly to it's proper spot.  SNAP!

Broken



Time to get out the torch.






I used Harris Safty-silv 56 again for this.  Worked nice.  Not perfect as I definitely need more practice.

Finished cleaning and putting back together the reversing gear today after starting on it yesterday, the paint was dry today.  Put new felts in.  Had to fix the oil tube as the original cap was missing...

Before



After






Oil cap repair.

Chucked up and ready to drill 1/4" diameter 1/4" deep to accept a press on gits.



Drilled



Yeah, that'll work!



Done.


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## stevecmo

Nice job on the brazing.  Looking good!


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## Kroll

Nice recovery,I would be having panic attacks----kroll


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## Thoro

Kroll said:


> Nice recovery,I would be having panic attacks----kroll



Thanks.  Yeah, my heart sank for a moment, but what can you do but pick up the pieces and move forward, literally. HAHA

- - - Updated - - -

What have you guys done as far as painting the inside of the apron on your lathes?  Is it advisable to do so?  I noticed there seems to be some primer or paint in there after cleaning it up, but can't tell if it's just over spray from the factory.  Seems to me that it wouldn't be necessary as you never see it, and it's coated with oil mostly anyway....and the oil could potentially break a coating down?  Just want to make sure I don't not paint or at least prime it and regret it.


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## woodtickgreg

Thoro said:


> Thanks.  Yeah, my heart sank for a moment, but what can you do but pick up the pieces and move forward, literally. HAHA
> 
> - - - Updated - - -
> 
> What have you guys done as far as painting the inside of the apron on your lathes?  Is it advisable to do so?  I noticed there seems to be some primer or paint in there after cleaning it up, but can't tell if it's just over spray from the factory.  Seems to me that it wouldn't be necessary as you never see it, and it's coated with oil mostly anyway....and the oil could potentially break a coating down?  Just want to make sure I don't not paint or at least prime it and regret it.


I did not paint the inside of mine, I just painted right up to the machined lines and left the insides raw. I figured the oil will protect it well enough. Cast iron seems to have a capalary effect with oil and it just kinda draws it over it's surface it seems, plus the gears and such will fling it about.


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## Pacer

My "war board" 1944 Heavy 10 on a cast iron stand had the original grey paint on it when I got it and it had been brush painted! there there were a few brush marks around, was kinda surprised at that.

But anyway, about the inside, in the stand and the spindle casting it was white -white, white - was difficult to tell if was a primer or a paint. The apron did not have paint


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## drsorey

Newbie Question?
Is there any shims behind the gears on the reversing asembly?  When I got mine the previous owner, had 1 washer behind only 1 of the gears on the gear pair.  This didn't seem right, so I removed it.  The gears look more in line.  
What are your thoughts?


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## Thoro

drsorey said:


> Newbie Question?
> Is there any shims behind the gears on the reversing asembly?  When I got mine the previous owner, had 1 washer behind only 1 of the gears on the gear pair.  This didn't seem right, so I removed it.  The gears look more in line.
> What are your thoughts?




I'm no expert, but mine didn't have any washers behind any gears.  I don't believe there should be any.  But it might be worth investigating why the PO did that.....

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woodtickgreg said:


> I did not paint the inside of mine, I just painted right up to the machined lines and left the insides raw. I figured the oil will protect it well enough. Cast iron seems to have a capalary effect with oil and it just kinda draws it over it's surface it seems, plus the gears and such will fling it about.



That's what I thought.  Thanks a bunch W.T.G.

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Pacer said:


> My "war board" 1944 Heavy 10 on a cast iron stand had the original grey paint on it when I got it and it had been brush painted! there there were a few brush marks around, was kinda surprised at that.
> 
> But anyway, about the inside, in the stand and the spindle casting it was white -white, white - was difficult to tell if was a primer or a paint. The apron did not have paint




That's pretty neat about the brush marks.  I plan to paint a lot of the lathe by hand with the exception of the bed and a few other parts.  Oh yeah, I'm going to spray the stand.....I dunno.  I'd like to hear other people's thoughts on how they went about tackling spray vs brush on parts.

I bet the left it white so as to easier see inside the dark cavities of the machine.  Or at least that's a nice side effect.


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## stevecmo

Plus one on the Rustoleum Professional paint.  I used it on my lathe and mill and am currently using on an Atlas shaper I'm refurbing.....all brushed on.  It's a little tedious but saves a lot of time not spent on masking.  I just set up on my bench with various size brushes (most are smallish artist brushes), put some tunes on and get after it.  Kind of relaxing actually.

You can see a couple of pic's here: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/15221-Rockwell-Mill-Refurb

Steve


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## woodtickgreg

When I repainted mine I both sprayed and brushed. +1 on the rust oleum for me as well, I have used it before with good results and this was no different. I sprayed all the large castings like the pedestal, legs, doors, and the bed, But everything else I brushed on. Apron, head stock, tail stock, gear box, all wher brushed for better control. The rust oleum flows out really nice, when you first brush it on you will see brush marks, but then it self levels before it dries. I 2 coated everything. When I sprayed I used rust oleum primer, when I brushed I just 2 coated on the raw iron, it's fine. Just clean the parts well to remove oil, I washed everything in a parts cleaner with mineral spirits, blew it all of with compressed air and then hit everything with brake clean to make sure any trace of oil was gone. After you clean everything if you don't paint it that day you will have to do it again as cast iron will bleed oil from it's pores.


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## Thoro

stevecmo said:


> Plus one on the Rustoleum Professional paint.  I used it on my lathe and mill and am currently using on an Atlas shaper I'm refurbing.....all brushed on.  It's a little tedious but saves a lot of time not spent on masking.  I just set up on my bench with various size brushes (most are smallish artist brushes), put some tunes on and get after it.  Kind of relaxing actually.
> 
> You can see a couple of pic's here: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/15221-Rockwell-Mill-Refurb
> 
> Steve



Steve,

I have to agree completely.  It is kind of relaxing.  I don't mind the painting by hand nearly as much as the prep work.  It took me a half hour to put a coat on the apron, without getting it anywhere that paint didn't belong.   I would have spent longer than that just masking the apron off, and I'm willing to be there would be paint in places I'd prefer it not.

Nice job on your refurb. Looks awesome!





woodtickgreg said:


> When I repainted mine I both sprayed and brushed. +1 on the rust oleum for me as well, I have used it before with good results and this was no different. I sprayed all the large castings like the pedestal, legs, doors, and the bed, But everything else I brushed on. Apron, head stock, tail stock, gear box, all wher brushed for better control. The rust oleum flows out really nice, when you first brush it on you will see brush marks, but then it self levels before it dries. I 2 coated everything. When I sprayed I used rust oleum primer, when I brushed I just 2 coated on the raw iron, it's fine. Just clean the parts well to remove oil, I washed everything in a parts cleaner with mineral spirits, blew it all of with compressed air and then hit everything with brake clean to make sure any trace of oil was gone. After you clean everything if you don't paint it that day you will have to do it again as cast iron will bleed oil from it's pores.




W.T.G.
Thanks for the info.  I'm thinking brush mostly as well for the lathe.  I do like rustoleum's pro oil based paints.  For this project, have on it's way to me 2 quarts of sherwin williams industrial pro alkyd enamel in a Gauntlet Gray.  A friend from afar of mine had painted his SB with that paint and he is sending some my way as he had to buy a gallon and only used a fraction.  I'm a little unsure about the color. We'll see.  I'm sure I'll use it.


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## Thoro

*Apron*

Yesterday I finished putting my apron back together and rewicking it.  That was actually pretty fun! It just needs paint now....which I am impatiently waiting for. 

I will show you all some pics as a timeline sort of.









Stripped the parts and got it ready for electrolysis.



*After 24 hours in the tank*






*Little bit of primer*




*Pretty much ready to go.*




On to the next thing on my mental list which is the saddle that has been soaking for a day.  Gonna go pull it out and clean it up.  Thanks for looking!


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## Rick Leslie

Definitely subscribed. Thank you for taking the time to document the process. I've followed WTG's rebuild and keep thinking of the day when I rebuild my Heavy 10. I just can't take it out of service right now, even though it's decades past a rebuild. 

Curious question: You mentioned it has a small spindle bore. I thought the Heavy 10s all had a large spindle bore. What's the diff?


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## Thoro

Rick Leslie said:


> Definitely subscribed. Thank you for taking the time to document the process. I've followed WTG's rebuild and keep thinking of the day when I rebuild my Heavy 10. I just can't take it out of service right now, even though it's decades past a rebuild.
> 
> Curious question: You mentioned it has a small spindle bore. I thought the Heavy 10s all had a large spindle bore. What's the diff?



Thanks for the kind words. 

As for the difference, the 10L (L signifies large) spindle has a 2 1/4" x 8tpi spindle nose thread with a 1 3/8 bore.  The 10R (R signifies regular, others may correct me if I'm wrong) has an 1 7/8" x 8tpi nose thread with about 1" bore.


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## Rick Leslie

Thanks for the clarification.


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## Thoro

*Odds and ends today*

I was missing the retaining screw for the star knob on the apron which is a left hand screw, 32 tpi, od of threads .181".
I'd like to send a special thanks to Kroll for his measurements of the star knob retaining screw that he did for me.  Going off of what he measured I decided to just make a screw today as I had some time and was itching to MAKE something anyway.  It was a fun project, and was a nice break to be able to make some chips, as opposed to degreasing and whatnot.

Chucked up in the lathe, fit is good.  Time to part it off.



Finished screw.




Installed



Today was kind of a mish-mosh of things as I am still waiting impatiently for paint.  So I decided to shine up the old rusty spindle pulley cone.  Forgot to take before pics.  chucked it up on my atlas and went to town with a sponge sanding pad and scotchbrite.




Finally, a question for you guys.  I can not figure out how to get this oiler off.  It is threaded in.  I have a hunch that it's threaded into a bushing that was then pressed into the casting.....As you can see, if you try to unthread it, it hits the casting.  Has anyone had any luck tackling this magic trick?



Thanks for looking.


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## stevecmo

Thoro,

Are you sure that fitting is threaded?  A lot of them are press fit.

You're doing a great job on your rebuild!  

Steve


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## Felich

The threads go into a metal plug that press fits into the spindle casting.
I have seen other posts that say to wrap the oiler with a piece of leather or something similar (to protect it from bending) and use pliers to wiggle out the plug. 
I did the process on the left one, but not yet on the right.

I am restoring my Heavy 10 at the same time as you.
Thankfully I have no missing or broken parts.
I'll subscribe to this thread to keep posted on your progress.

Also, I am impressed with the results you are getting from your soak tub.
I see one picture of it, but I would appreciate some details of construction so I can make one for myself.

Thanks for documenting your process,
Jim


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## woodtickgreg

Sometimes on some of them you can just grind a little of the casting away for clearance and then just unscrew it. I don't know if that will work on yours, it looks pretty close. It worked on mine, I only removed a small amount of material and then sanded it and you can't even tell I ground on the casting. I used teflon tape when re installed it.


----------



## Thoro

Felich said:


> The threads go into a metal plug that press fits into the spindle casting.
> I have seen other posts that say to wrap the oiler with a piece of leather or something similar (to protect it from bending) and use pliers to wiggle out the plug.
> I did the process on the left one, but not yet on the right.
> 
> I am restoring my Heavy 10 at the same time as you.
> Thankfully I have no missing or broken parts.
> I'll subscribe to this thread to keep posted on your progress.
> 
> Also, I am impressed with the results you are getting from your soak tub.
> I see one picture of it, but I would appreciate some details of construction so I can make one for myself.
> 
> Thanks for documenting your process,
> Jim



Thanks Jim. I will gingerly give that a try. The Left one doesn't have the press fit in mine, I don't think.  But that one is not the issue. 

The process you see me using is what's commonly referred to as electrolysis rust removal. The setup you see with the saddle is a new configuration I just put together and it is working nicely.  You make an electrolyte solution (I use washing soda, so do most people.  Then you connect the negative to the piece you want to clean, and the positive to the sacrificial anode (I forget if it's called that or electrode in this situation) using a car battery  charger. 

Any way. It would be best for you to look it up as I'm not reinventing anything here and there is a myriad of information on it out there.   I would be happy to answer any questions you might have pertaining to my own experience and set up with it though. 

I love the process.


----------



## Kroll

Go over to the yahoo group Heavy 10 and look for Steve Wells Heavy 10 restoration project,he made a tool for removing the cup and the plug.Lots of pics and good reading material.Myself I did what Woodtick said,took a 4" angle grinder and remove alittle metal,testing each time to see if cup would clear.Tape off the cup just in case you bump it with the wheel.I think I remove almost 1/8 material then I was able to remove the cup but it was still hitting the side.Once out I round over the edge that I made,painted the headstock install the cup and had to just touch it up alittle.
Your project is looking great---kroll
If I knew how I would try to cope Steves pics and post them but it would not let me.


----------



## Thoro

*PAINT!*

Finally the paint arrived today!  Thanks to my good buddy who sent me some leftover paint he had from painting his South Bend 9.  With the snow, I have had some time off work and I have been going nuts.  The paint has been holding me up and it should have been here on the 16th, but after seeing the package, I realized, the box exploded and there it sat in Harrisburg for who knows how long, until they taped it back up and sent it on it's way.  

It's a Sherwin williams Pro industrial alkyd enamel. Gauntlet grey is the color.  The color in person is very similar to the pictures at: http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend9-inch/page9.html  In my pictures it looks more grey, but this paint has more green in it, giving it a slight look of a drab.  I am very happy with it.  I wanted something that was just a tad off from GREY.

Thankfully he put the paint in these quart containers and not a standard paint quart.
Look at that damage!  No leaks though!



Also, in the goody box was some scrap metal stock (a few pieces were missing which I assume they are rolling around on the floor at some sort facility)
Got a boring bar and boring bar holder, also an atlas micrometer carriage stop for my atlas, which I never have had one for.



I built that shelf in the kitchen.  I can use it for what I want.  :roflmao:  This is all for my sanity.



Like I said.  Looks more grey in these pics than it really is in person.  I can see a hint of green in the pics on my end though.  It's interesting, I noticed, depending on the light, it takes on different shades, from more olive drab, to a more plain grey.



First coat is done.  Will do the second tomorrow, hopefully.  Then I can get these parts put all back together and move on to the rest of the lathe.  I want to complete what I have taken apart so far as to not get too confused about which parts go where and space is also an issue.  

Thanks for looking.

- - - Updated - - -



Kroll said:


> Go over to the yahoo group Heavy 10 and look for Steve Wells Heavy 10 restoration project,he made a tool for removing the cup and the plug.Lots of pics and good reading material.Myself I did what Woodtick said,took a 4" angle grinder and remove alittle metal,testing each time to see if cup would clear.Tape off the cup just in case you bump it with the wheel.I think I remove almost 1/8 material then I was able to remove the cup but it was still hitting the side.Once out I round over the edge that I made,painted the headstock install the cup and had to just touch it up alittle.
> Your project is looking great---kroll
> If I knew how I would try to cope Steves pics and post them but it would not let me.




I've been trying to find that thread, but Yahoo is....  Can you send me the link?


----------



## Pacer

If you own a SB this is a "must have" site, TONS on good info....

http://www.wswells.com/


----------



## itsme_Bernie

Lovin this thread man!



Bernie


----------



## Thoro

Pacer said:


> If you own a SB this is a "must have" site, TONS on good info....
> 
> http://www.wswells.com/



Thanks for the tip. I have looked around at that site before. It really is a great source. Do you know if he has any info there about removing that oil Cup?


----------



## Thoro

*Apron Complete*

Quick post here on progress.  Completed the apron today.  You can't see in the pic here, but I did the modification to the hand wheel  adding an oiler.




Next is to finish putting together the compound, cross slide and saddle.


----------



## Thoro

Things are going a little slow with the project. 

Here's a picture of the gear cover finished. Put a coat of clear over the tags I fixed up. 



I'm having trouble with my cross slide screw and dial assembly. Take a look and see if any of this makes sense. 

That's all the parts.... It's missing something.


----------



## Kroll

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/southbendheavy10files/files
Scroll down till you find SW's Heavy 10 Restoration,the whole files section is fantastic.While there sign up there is several sections on other SB's,Atlas and I guess any lathe there is.I don't go there much cause I haven't figure out how to navigate----kroll


----------



## Thoro

*Head stock oil cup bosses removed.*

I whipped up a sort of puller today to pull the bosses that the oilers thread into on the head stock.  I considered grinding the casting to make clearance for the right hand oil cup, but it seemed like I would have to grind too much.  So I went about copying what others had made, a slide hammer puller of sorts.  I ended up milling a piece of steel from my scrap bin, and after several tries at fitting and trimming a little more, I got it to fit, quite tightly too, which I wanted, because it's an awkward pull.  So I thought, well, heck, maybe this will work as a pry/wedge instead of the slide hammer approach.  I was just about to give up on it and cobble together a slide hammer for the piece I milled and it started coming loose.  Done!  I even pulled the left oiler with it because there was so much sludge and junk in the oil reservoirs, that it was proving difficult to clean.


About 1" wide, 2" long, 1/4" thick.  Slot is about 3/8" wide, and the relief slot is 1/2"  Pretty rough, but works.



I used a screw driver behind the puller to give it leverage off the casting of the head stock and prevent it from pushing on the boss.  So ginger tapping with the good ol' brass hammer and they actually came out quite easily once I got the leverage points just right.  It's all about technique!


Note the hammer.....It has steel in it....Does anyone know why a brass hammer would have steel like that in it?

The head stock is in the soup right now.  Can't wait till it's ready to be rinsed off.

Thanks for looking.


----------



## woodtickgreg

Excellent! Glad you got them out. I see your headstock is the very old style before the bronze bearing style, this may also be why the oil cups where so close to the casting.


----------



## CoopVA

Great thread!  I'm getting ready to start on my 9" and this is very inspiring.  Thanks for sharing.

Subscribed!


----------



## Thoro

*The Commodity we like to call time.*

The time I have had for almost the past month to work on the lathe has been sparse, let alone update here with my progress.  Basically, my goal is to have the LATHE portion completely finished, so that all I will have left to do is the cabinet and drive.  This will also allow me to consolidate the parts i have strewn about from the lathe back together again so as to not let things get too confusing.  I am currently working on the gearbox, hope to have it done by next week some time.

So, quickly I will get up to speed.

Headstock before electrolysis



Headstock after electrolysis.



Found a tub big enough to zap the bed in.  Worked out pretty well.  It took most of the paint off leaving some filler behind which I needle scaled off. I power washed the bed after electrolysis. (wish I had a hot water power washer)




Headstock after a few coats of primer/filler and paint.  I sprayed the headstock.



Sprayed the bed and feet as well.




things are starting to come together.....



Yeah baby!  This was the point where I finally got over a hump of feeling like i just wanted to get the lathe running and that this was all going to pay off.




Covers in place.....




So, on my agenda and or to-do is to get the spindle installed which is going to be a conversion for 10R to 10L  Change the compound you see in the pictures to a different one I have acquired that does not have the corner ground off of it by a chuck, as well as sort out the cross feed screw and dial (procured a worn screw with large dial-mine is large dial but shop made and missing parts)  So I need to refurb the worn factory screw as it has the gear on the shaft where mine does not.  Finish the gear box.  tackle the cabinet and drive (which I am least looking forward to)

Thanks for looking.


----------



## woodtickgreg

Nice work! She's looking really good. And trust me, it is all worth it in the end. When you are using your new old lathe it just gets into your soul. Doing mine was fun, hard work, a labor of love, rewarding, educational, and in the end so totally worth it! Yours is coming along nicely and I am enjoying watching your work and progress.


----------



## Kroll

Thor when your done,that lathe should go into the SB lathe book "Hall of Fame".Its looking so good,I would say awhole lot better than factory recondition.I love the look of the shiny unfinish metal,stands out w/the smokin hot gray paint job----


----------



## cooker

*Re: Odds and ends today*

Do you have the length and other dimensions for the screw?  I need to make one of these, and your post reminded me.

Thanks.



Thoro said:


> I was missing the retaining screw for the star knob on the apron which is a left hand screw, 32 tpi, od of threads .181".
> I'd like to send a special thanks to Kroll for his measurements of the star knob retaining screw that he did for me.  Going off of what he measured I decided to just make a screw today as I had some time and was itching to MAKE something anyway.  It was a fun project, and was a nice break to be able to make some chips, as opposed to degreasing and whatnot.
> 
> Chucked up in the lathe, fit is good.  Time to part it off.
> View attachment 68025
> 
> 
> Finished screw.
> View attachment 68026
> 
> 
> 
> Installed
> View attachment 68027
> 
> 
> Today was kind of a mish-mosh of things as I am still waiting impatiently for paint.  So I decided to shine up the old rusty spindle pulley cone.  Forgot to take before pics.  chucked it up on my atlas and went to town with a sponge sanding pad and scotchbrite.
> 
> View attachment 68029
> 
> 
> Finally, a question for you guys.  I can not figure out how to get this oiler off.  It is threaded in.  I have a hunch that it's threaded into a bushing that was then pressed into the casting.....As you can see, if you try to unthread it, it hits the casting.  Has anyone had any luck tackling this magic trick?
> View attachment 68028
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


----------



## Thoro

*Re: Odds and ends today*



cooker said:


> Do you have the length and other dimensions for the screw?  I need to make one of these, and your post reminded me.
> 
> Thanks.



Absolutely.  Here is what I made mine to- 

Started with 1/2" CR steel.  This will give you a very close to original diameter for the head of the screw.

Head thickness is about .160"

Thread diameter is .181"  (my suggestion is to sneak up on the thread diameter while checking the fit to your clutch shaft with the piece still in the chuck)

Total length is about 5/8 - 11/16" long from top of head to end of screw.

32 TPI

LEFT HAND SCREW (as you probably know)


Hope that helps.

- - - Updated - - -



woodtickgreg said:


> Nice work! She's looking really good. And trust me, it is all worth it in the end. When you are using your new old lathe it just gets into your soul. Doing mine was fun, hard work, a labor of love, rewarding, educational, and in the end so totally worth it! Yours is coming along nicely and I am enjoying watching your work and progress.




Thanks very much.  Yes....I am growing impatient and daydreaming about being able to hear it purr and cut metal like butter (smoothly hopefully)  I do agree it is totally worth it.  I just wish I had more free time to be able to dedicate to doing this and knocking it out in a more timely fashion.  Oh well.

- - - Updated - - -



Kroll said:


> Thor when your done,that lathe should go into the SB lathe book "Hall of Fame".Its looking so good,I would say awhole lot better than factory recondition.I love the look of the shiny unfinish metal,stands out w/the smokin hot gray paint job----



Haha!  Thanks so much kroll.  You're too kind though.  I would say it should belong not in a hall of fame but rather in my shop where I will love to use it one of these days!  I agree with you about the contrasting between the paint and the metal.  I am really glad I did a 2 tode with the black accent too.  It seems to add that little bit of pizzaz that I like without any extra labor really.

Thanks for the kind words once again.


And btw, I must congratulate you on the very thorough and nice job you are doing on your Heavy 10


----------



## Thoro

I've been slowly pecking away at things. 

about a week ago I finished the gear box.  That was by far the most difficult part so far, and I anticipate it remaining the most difficult.  It came apart fairly easily, but going back together was not the same story.  I primed the gearbox case and pit one coat of paint inside and out, then reassembled it, and finished the last coat just before putting the levers on.

BEFORE



AFTER



I also fabbed up some bolts with brass heads for the gear train cover.





I fitted the banjo on the gearbox and the gear train is complete.

BEFORE



AFTER



Today I got the spindle "guts" swapped over from the 10R spindle to the 10L spindle.  That was fairly painless.










I still need to shim the spindle.  Install the back gears.  Re-manufacture the cross slide screw.....and then I think the lathe will be complete, and on to the cabinet and under-drive.

QUESTION

Does anyone have any information on refurbishing the cross slide screw?  What I have is a large dial no taper attachment.  I need to cut the old screw off, leaving the spline gear intact and somehow refit a new screw to the spline gear shaft.  I have been searching for info, but have not found much.  I'm afraid I am not looking in the right places, so to speak.  Any if is appreciated.

Thanks in advance and thanks for looking.


----------



## woodtickgreg

Nice work, looking real nice. I saw a thread on how to do that shaft repair just like you are saying, but I can't remember where it is. It was pretty slick Used a dowel to line things up at the joint.


----------



## d4xycrq

Thoro,

World class restoration.  Somehow I've missed your thread, and just read through all the posts.  Although you probably felt you had a lot of work ahead of you when you started, have a look at my before pictures:

















I'll use your words of warning to avoid breaking the rather fragile bits...and I use lots of electrolysis too.

As bad as it looked above, my Heavy 10 is up and running.  I just cleaned up enough to do some work as I'm restoring a J-Head Brigdgeport right now.  Once the Bridgeport is done, I'll follow your lead, and hopefully will do as well as you.

Best regards,

Ray


----------



## EricMenantico

I think Julian is hiding updates from us.


----------



## Ski

Awesome job! Could you put some pics of you electrolysis setup up? I would like to try something like that.Ski


----------



## ttpociask

*Re: South Bend Heavy 10 restoration I just bought a heavy 10*

The heavy 10 that I just bought had serial #118804 and dww and jfp stamped on the way. How strange, and from what I could find out it looks like it was made about 11-1941.        





Thoro said:


> This will be the beginning of my documentation of a South Bend heavy 10 that I acquired on Christmas eve.  This is the first South Bend I have owned and am excited about it.  I am going to try to be proactive here and share my adventure with it rather than sit back and read while I fix it up in the shadows of lurkville, time premitting.
> 
> It originally was in a Vo-tech school, then put in dry storage for some time and after that a student from that school purchased it and took it home.  The school had removed a few parts that I assume they needed before they sent it with the student. The student who is now a man reaching retirement age is who I bought it from.  From what I can tell it is about 1941 vintage.  Single tumble gear box.  Small bore spindle.  10R
> 
> Here it is just after unloading it.  I put the 2x's and casters on it before it ever touched the ground.  Sure makes moving it around a tight shop for various tasks easier.
> View attachment 67312
> 
> 
> My plan is to restore it. To what extent is something I haven't decided yet.  The ways have the classic nicks near the head stock, but they are mostly on the flat and tail stock way, not the carriage way.  Not much significant wear on the carriage ways that I have identified yet, no wear ridge.  It's definitely a used machine though, and that's what makes me question to myself as far as what extent I want to restore it, because I am planning on fixing this one up and replacing an Atlas lathe that I currently own and using it.  I do like the luxury of having a working lathe already so I am not in an extreme rush to get this one going and would like to make it nice, because I can.
> 
> Here is the gear cover model plate.
> View attachment 67313
> 
> 
> Here is the serial number on the ways.  Not sure what the D.W.W is.  I'm guessing it may be the school's stamping?
> View attachment 67314
> 
> 
> It was missing the primary gear on the gear box.  As well as the sliding gear.  In this picture I have taken the banjo off, but I do have it.  Just missing the sliding gear.
> View attachment 67315
> 
> 
> The apron was missing the star knob and screw retaining screw for the star knob.
> View attachment 67316
> 
> 
> What appears to be a shop / student made large dial conversion (more on that later, as it is going to cause me much confusion down the road with this restoration)
> View attachment 67317
> 
> 
> Those are most of the missing pieces/oddities I have found so far except for every single gitts oiler being missing or smashed except for the head stock cups.
> 
> That should get things up to speed as far as the condition that I found it in, pretty much.  I have already started stripping parts and cleaning things up so I will post up some progress shots and such on that.
> 
> I'm going to need all the advice I can get.



- - - Updated - - -

Also forgot to mention the model is also a 199 but it has a -z instead of your yn.


----------



## Thoro

*It's been a while but I'm still pecking away at it.*

So, it's been a while since I updated on my progress here.  I have been slowly pecking away at it, getting closer and closer to a finish.  Here is a smattering of photos of my progress since last post.


Made this split driver for the cross feed screws out of a random socket.  Came in very handy.





Here are some photos of my cross feed screw rehabilitation.  I had "ok" results.  I'm still no expert machinist by any means, and working with old used parts isn't necessarily always the most ideal learning circumstances.






Back gear installed.



Gear cover in place.



Forgot to go crazy with before pictures of the underdrive, but you all can imagine the mess.




Painting and reassembly of the underdrive. (it's upside down for reassembly.)






I'm missing my saddle lock, so I decided to start making one, starting with the square bolt.  Made it out of 1/2" mystery metal, (I think it's stainless or some kind of tool steel)  In hind sight I would have used 5/8? to get a bit bigger shoulder for the integrated washer, but I'm overall happy with the results.  Single pointed the threads on my Atlas 10F.  Milled the squared head with a square collet block.  and I've provided a picture here of my sorry excuse for a drawing that I whipped up prior to making the bolt. 





Next on the list of things to do is to make the clamp for the saddle lock.  Make a second debris cover for the underdrive, as I am missing one.  Paint the cabinet (NOT looking forward to that!) make a serpentine belt.  Figure out the motor situation and how to move forward with a VFD setup.....and more I am sure.  This has been a big project but very gratifying, so keep tuned.

Thanks for looking!


----------



## jaychris

hopefully not to derail your thread, but what's involved in making an electrolysis tank?  I have a vague understanding of what electrolysis is (it's the bad thing that makes my props brittle and eats holes in my aluminum boat when I don't have sacrificial zincs), and the way it takes paint off is pretty amazing.


----------



## Thoro

jaychris said:


> hopefully not to derail your thread, but what's involved in making an electrolysis tank?  I have a vague understanding of what electrolysis is (it's the bad thing that makes my props brittle and eats holes in my aluminum boat when I don't have sacrificial zincs), and the way it takes paint off is pretty amazing.



Well,  the scientific... Chemical.. Whatchamajigamajic  is all a bit fuzzy to me to. B there to answer your question about what's involved in making a tank to do electrolysis, the materials and items you need are possibly laying around in your garage. 

Non conductive container that holds water. 
Sacrificial anode. 
Water
Car battery charger or other DC power source. 
Washing soda (electrolyte) 

As to not beat a dead horse, do a Google search for electrolysis rust removal, the process is well documented by many. 

One note, which I have not tried yet but, many people say that the solution alone without electricity is enough to remove paint.  I will like to see what it would do with painted aluminum, if it will harm the metal or not.


----------



## Thoro

d4xycrq said:


> Thoro,
> 
> World class restoration.  Somehow I've missed your thread, and just read through all the posts.  Although you probably felt you had a lot of work ahead of you when you started, have a look at my before pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll use your words of warning to avoid breaking the rather fragile bits...and I use lots of electrolysis too.
> 
> As bad as it looked above, my Heavy 10 is up and running.  I just cleaned up enough to do some work as I'm restoring a J-Head Brigdgeport right now.  Once the Bridgeport is done, I'll follow your lead, and hopefully will do as well as you.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Ray



Thank you for your kind words. Wow!  I would have ran from that lathe when I was looking for this one I got. 
Do you have any pictures that you can share of it as it stands now?


----------



## Thoro

*Getting so close!*

Ok guys.

It's been quite a while and I have slacked on updating about my rebuild.  I have been slowly chugging through the process still.  It has been nearly 6 months since I began this process and I can not wait till I take my first cuts!

I'll start with some pictures, then I have a surprise at the end, if anyone cares :whistle:

Let's start with what I was least looking forward to.  Stripping the tubular cabinet and painting it.  And let me tell you.  It was NO fun!  I did it all with a wire wheel on and angle grinder.







I debated whether or not to paint the chip tray.  I decided to sand it down with an orbital sander and leave it at that.



Here we go with a bit of rustoleum primer shot on with a harbor freight hvlp spray gun.





First coat of 2 coats of paint on in this picture.  Same deal, Sherwin williams industrial alkyd enamel reduced with mineral spirits and shot with hvlp.



Cleaning up the knobs/latches





I was missing the knob, but found this one in my parts bins.  i like the way it looks.



Here are some good lit pics of just general stuff.













Finally cleaned up the power mast.  My plan at this point is to have it wired to the vfd to control forward reverse and stop.  then there will be a second control box under the chip tray in front for a mushroom emergency stop button, potentiometer and jog switch.




Found this little baby for a song of $50 bucks.  I really needed one too!  Cleaned up nice as well.







Here is my rigging setup to move the lathe from a spare cabinet I have onto the painted one that I will use with it.  It's still an awkward lift that requires a second person to balance the lathe.









Underdrive and motor mounted.  that was also a pain in the rear, but I got it done with 2 other guys help.



And there it is sitting in it's place.








So now for the grand finale for today, I took a video and put it up on youtube.  I haven't ever done one of these things yet, so I hope you guys enjoy it.  I think it's a bit long, so sorry about that, but I had a lot I wanted to say!

Stay tuned, and as always, thanks for looking!

[video=youtube_share;E4DsaZkV0YM]http://youtu.be/E4DsaZkV0YM[/video]


----------



## HMF

This is a fantastic thread. Thank you SO MUCH for documenting this here!!



:thanks::thumbzup3:


----------



## Splat

Beautiful job! You should be proud of that machine and your work on it. She'll be around for a looong time.


----------



## woodtickgreg

Always nice to follow along and see one come together, also really cool to see it run. Great work, she will serve you well. Thanks for sharing your journey with us.


----------



## Thoro

Thanks so much for the kind words fellas. I simply cannot wait to get it into place and start making chips. I've decided I will sell the Atlas first and then move the heavy 10 into it's place  as space is very much an issue. Wish me a speedy sale!


----------



## Thoro

Ok! On Sunday I kissed my Atlas 10" goodbye. I am still a bit apprehensive about it... But I have to move on. It served me well. 


There it sat. 



There is a hole.... 



Monday I moved the heavy 10 into place and wired it up. 




My vfd setup. I decided against an enclosure for now. We'll see later if I do one or not. 


Thanks for looking. More to come.


----------



## drs23

Fantastic job. I've been following since your first post. What a difference between now and the day you started!

You've done a job to be really proud of! Great end result and I'm sure very rewarding.

Thanks for draggin' us along. ;^)


----------



## woodtickgreg

Always great to follow along on a build and see the end result. Great work. Thanks for posting.


----------



## Kroll

Fantastic job Thoro,boy these machines require alot of work to get them back to their glory days which you done very well.But you know what you have,it will last several life times before someone else in the yr 2114 *maybe *will do it again.These lathes are worth every minute and every penny spent on them.Congrats


----------



## artman60

_I am an electrician, and have no machinist knowledge. I bought a South Bend drill press last Sunday, for home projects. I was gonna buy a cheap drill press from one of the box stores, read the reviews on them, and decided to check out Craigslist to see what was out there. Found the South Bend for slightly more money than the starter ones at the stores. I say all this so you can see where I'm coming from. I read the whole thread, and wish I could buy the unit from you, not because I know how to use a lathe, but because your finished restoration is absolutely beautiful! I would put it in my living room, and call it art. I tip my cap to you Sir. You have made me want to get a lathe and learn how to use it. Artie_


----------



## Thoro

*Been a while.  Gearbox threading chart refinish.*

So it's been a while.  Since I got my lathe up and running, I have been using it a lot and love it.  Such a gratifying experience this has been to restore it to use it.  

A real quickie post here on my threading chart badge that goes on the gear box which I refinished.

Here is a before.




And here is an after.




I used a technique that I read about and probably adapted through trial and error for my own purposes and reasons.  I used rustoleum professional spray can paint, and mineral spirits with a rag and soft wood stick to rub away the areas I didn't want paint.  This had to be one of the most tedious portions of the restoration.  Took me 4 hours to finish, in one sitting.  I realize there should be black in there as well...I didn't have the guts for a 2 toned paint job here.

Here are some pictures of the process.


----------



## DoogieB

That took some serious patience, but it DOES look great.


----------



## ddushane

Outstanding Job Sir!


----------



## Thoro

Thanks guy. I really appreciate it.  I'll try to keep it coming as I slowly refine the lathe, in between using it!


----------



## joebiplane

*Re: My weapon of choice against rust and old paint*

A little bit of elbow grease with the scotchbrite pad and it's pretty much ready for paint.  I don't think I'll do much polishing to parts past this stage.  I kind of like the idea of leaving a little bit of "patina" left.
View attachment 67415


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## Thoro

*Re: My weapon of choice against rust and old paint*



joebiplane said:


> A little bit of elbow grease with the scotchbrite pad and it's pretty much ready for paint.  I don't think I'll do much polishing to parts past this stage.  I kind of like the idea of leaving a little bit of "patina" left.
> View attachment 67415


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