# What did I miss?



## AxeMaker (Jun 13, 2017)

Hey folks,

Been away for a while unfortunately.  I had a lot of house stuff going on and my usual back issues bogging me down.  Hope everyone is well and the machines are turning.

Last time I was on here I was getting ready to set up the Lenze VFD on my Series I.  Well needless to say that still needs to be completed.  But, I did compile and print out all of the information such as the relevant posts on this site and my notated manual.  I put it all in a 1/2" 3-ring binder making it all very pretty.  At least it will be until I put greasy fingers on the page corners.

I have been picking up a few end mills here and there for my personal gunsmithing adventures on the mill.  Any home gunsmiths around?  Speaking of that, I am a Pacific Tool & Gauge customer and there is a document on their web site which I found interesting.  The file name is 'Feeds and Speeds" but it talks about 'Reamer/ Cutting Fluid Recommendations' and I have attached it here.  As per the recommendation I bought some ATF transmission fluid and some Chevron cutting oil.  Hopefully I will have the VFD setup soon and get to use the fluid.

Take care,


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## Silverbullet (Jun 14, 2017)

Thanks for the pdf, I've done a bit of gunsmithing over the past forty years. Spent years hunting and shooting competition trap. Most of the work was on trap and skeet shotguns. Installing reducers fitting stocks , glassing cracked forends . Adjustable stocks , cheek pieces, polishing forcing cones. Anything the professional shooter needs. All done while having my own shooting career going on to being on the All American Team , till my back pains sidelined me I'm waiting now for surgery which should have been done ten years ago. Bulging discs produce unbearable agony. 
Good luck with your vfd let us know if YA Need help. And welcome back


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## 4ssss (Jun 15, 2017)

If you happen to need some help in programming that VFD there is a Tech at Lenze that is terrific. Her name is Quinn and the phone is 1-800-217-9100  extension 5510. She helped me wire the original machine switching into the VFD and pul a 12v lead from off it to power up a tach.  I had an idea after reading up the manual but it took all of 5 minutes with her on the phone to get it done.


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## AxeMaker (Jun 16, 2017)

4ssss said:


> If you happen to need some help in programming that VFD there is a Tech at Lenze that is terrific. Her name is Quinn and the phone is 1-800-217-9100  extension 5510. She helped me wire the original machine switching into the VFD and pul a 12v lead from off it to power up a tach.  I had an idea after reading up the manual but it took all of 5 minutes with her on the phone to get it done.



Thank you !  I will note that in the manual and forum posts I printed out.

I was actually going to use the low voltage to trip a relay which in turn allows a AC cooling fan to run when the mill starts.  This is to keep the motor cool when it is running too slow to cool from the impellers on top of it.

Which tac are you using ?  I guess I should think about that especially if the motor and speed adjustment on the front of the mill are not sync'd up.


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## AxeMaker (Jun 16, 2017)

Silverbullet said:


> Thanks for the pdf, I've done a bit of gunsmithing over the past forty years. Spent years hunting and shooting competition trap. Most of the work was on trap and skeet shotguns. Installing reducers fitting stocks , glassing cracked forends . Adjustable stocks , cheek pieces, polishing forcing cones. Anything the professional shooter needs. All done while having my own shooting career going on to being on the All American Team , till my back pains sidelined me I'm waiting now for surgery which should have been done ten years ago. Bulging discs produce unbearable agony.
> Good luck with your vfd let us know if YA Need help. And welcome back



I will be doing pistol and rifle work, I do not own any revolvers or skeet/trap guns.  A couple years ago I got my M16/M4/AR15 Armorer's Certification.  I have three AR's sitting on my bench in parts boxes that need to be put together, one of them is a 7.62.  Now if I could afford a lathe so I could do my own barrel work too.  I also have a .300 Win Mag that I had custom built at Bartlein Barrels which has a 28" barrel.  It was built after my neck surgery in early 2009 thinking I would be back in the saddle shooting extreme long range competitions.  But then I had my knee replacement in late 2009.  In 2010 I had my first back surgery, 2011 my 2nd back surgery and 2012 my 3rd back surgery.  

So anyway after all of the surgeries I won't be doing the extreme long range comp's and I want to cut the barrel down to 24" and have it re-threaded for a suppressor.  That way it will be a bit lighter than it is now.


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## 4ssss (Jun 16, 2017)

The tach I'm using is one of those $8 Ebay digital tachs.  They work fine as long as you figure out the wiring, or learn to read the Chinese instructions, which is easier.  Terminal #11 is the low voltage pin and you need to use #2 which is the common terminal and you get 12 volts.


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## AxeMaker (Jun 18, 2017)

4ssss said:


> The tach I'm using is one of those $8 Ebay digital tachs.  They work fine as long as you figure out the wiring, or learn to read the Chinese instructions, which is easier.  Terminal #11 is the low voltage pin and you need to use #2 which is the common terminal and you get 12 volts.



Can you post the link to it?


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## AxeMaker (Jun 18, 2017)

Oh you know I just remembered... The Lenze VFD will display RPM if I my recollection is correct.


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## 4ssss (Jun 18, 2017)

I don't know how it would without a proximity switch. I think you're thinking the Hz display on the VFD.  This is the tach I have on.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-4-Digit...be47f482d2a6cd6126d224&pid=100506&rk=1&rkt=1&


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## AxeMaker (Jun 18, 2017)

On page 36 of the of the Lenze Operating Manual...


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## 4ssss (Jun 19, 2017)

I didn't see that, but I think it's the motor RPM not the spindle RPM that will show. I have a proximity sensor on the spindle that picks up a magnet with the aftermarket tach.  Regardless I run the motor mainly at 60 Hz or close to that to get as much of the HP of the motor and still use the pulleys and back gears of my machinery, so I'm basically using the VFD as a phase converter, as the original machine on /off/ forward/reverse switch is wired into the VFD.  I noticed on my Bridgeport that the cutter will slow when taking a heavy cut if I drop the Hz down so I try to avoid heating up the motor.  I had a Bridgeport motor fry on me a while back when I was first using a static phase converter and got lucky and found a used motor on Craigslist for $50. Otherwise it would have cost me $700 to have the old motor wound.


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## AxeMaker (Jun 19, 2017)

4ssss said:


> I didn't see that, but I think it's the motor RPM not the spindle RPM that will show. I have a proximity sensor on the spindle that picks up a magnet with the aftermarket tach.  Regardless I run the motor mainly at 60 Hz or close to that to get as much of the HP of the motor and still use the pulleys and back gears of my machinery, so I'm basically using the VFD as a phase converter, as the original machine on /off/ forward/reverse switch is wired into the VFD.  I noticed on my Bridgeport that the cutter will slow when taking a heavy cut if I drop the Hz down so I try to avoid heating up the motor.  I had a Bridgeport motor fry on me a while back when I was first using a static phase converter and got lucky and found a used motor on Craigslist for $50. Otherwise it would have cost me $700 to have the old motor wound.




How did you attach the magnet to the spindle?

I still have not had a chance to get out there and program the darn thing.  The last time I started it up it was running backwards.  I think someone suggested switching a couple of the motor wires to correct it.


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## 4ssss (Jun 19, 2017)

The magnet's strong enough that it just sits there. I added a drop of super glue to the bottom just in case. You can either change any 1 wire to get it running right or just hit the R/F button and when the display blinks hit the M button and it will reverse.


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## AxeMaker (Jun 20, 2017)

4ssss said:


> The magnet's strong enough that it just sits there. I added a drop of super glue to the bottom just in case. You can either change any 1 wire to get it running right or just hit the R/F button and when the display blinks hit the M button and it will reverse.



I have bought magnets for other projects at  CMS Magnets .  They have very strong N52 Neodymium magnet disks and bars with holes.  I wonder if you could tap/drill a hole without affecting the spindle and mount the magnet with a small screw?

Thanks for the F/R tip !


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