# Cam-lock Tail Stock Conversion



## Fabrickator

I wanted to upgrade my G0602 tail stock and so here's what I ended up doing.  I started with a whim that maybe the Little Machine Shop kit may work.  The lifting block and clamp work fine but the shaft & handle were too short, so I made a new one.  I made a shaft extension that I bored and brazed the LMS kit shaft into it. Then I turned a new handle to match the Grizzly knobs and handles.


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## kd4gij

Nice job looks good


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## Walltoddj

Slick that's what I need to make for my mini-lathe!

Todd


 	 		 			:whiteflag:


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## stevo89

Nice I would like to do that to my G0602.


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## Cadillac STS

Here is what I did for a "Cam lock."  Works great, less than quarter turn of the nut locks it or unlocks.  Like always having the wrench on.





First made the threaded nut and put it on before marking the exact perfect spot to drill and tap the hole for the handle.

Handle rod made from a 6 inch stainless bolt with the head cut off and that end also threaded.





Function is exactly like the cam lock and this method works easier since the handle is right there and you don't need to reach up and behind to lock.


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## Mark_f

I like this. It is so simple I can't believe I couldn't figure that out. I want to do this to my south bend. It takes way less than a quarter turn to lock, but the darn wrench keeps falling off now and then. This will stop that.

Thanks for posting it,

Mark


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## Waldo1

Caddy- that is brilliantly simple! Well done.


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## sawlog

Great idea the threaded rod, on my Lathemaster I did something similar, first I installed a spring between the tail stock and the locking clamp, then cut down a inexpensive socket and welded a bolt to it that I put a knurled handle on. Mine is more 1/2 turn but works quite well.


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## GunsOfNavarone

So, Mr Fab, you purchased Little Machine shops kit and just made some mods to it? I really could use this mod and have played with it with a few different parts, space is so tight on the G0602 tail stock, you really must do it from backside as you did.


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## Rellortnoc

I took the top nut and lever from the original indexing tool post and made a lever lock for the tailstock.  Just drilled out the nut and re-threaded it to M12 x 1.75. Works great. 1/4 turn is all that’s needed to set or loosen the TS.  I planned to use washers of different thicknesses to position the lever, but didn‘t have to.  It was perfectly positioned.  Sure, id like to have a nice cam lock, but now I really don’t need it. And the lever is on the front for easy access.

Thanx to Cadillac STS for the idea!


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## GunsOfNavarone

So to clarify, you took the original Grizzly tool post, tapped and threaded to match the tail stock's stud and you're good to go? I'd be plenty happy with that! I'll have to give that a shot tonight.


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## Rellortnoc

GunsOfNavarone said:


> So to clarify, you took the original Grizzly tool post, tapped and threaded to match the tail stock's stud and you're good to go? I'd be plenty happy with that! I'll have to give that a shot tonight.



That’s it!  I never used the included tool post. Went right to a QCTP.  I used the original T nut for the QCTP. Just drilled and tapped it for the QCTP shaft. Kept me from having to mill another one.  So I have the old tool post In the junk drawer. The cap nut and lever made my tail stock lock as in the picture above. Simple to drill and re-tap to the correct size. I think it was M12 x 1.75. And it looks nicer than anything I could have made.


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## hman

I did something kinda similar, but a bit more crude, with my 9x20.  Found a combination wrench that fit, cut off the open end, and used a wooden wedge (held in place with a magnet) to retain the wrench.  Pretty easy to "clock" the wrench (or re-clock it if there's wear) - just pull out the wedge, reposition, return the wedge.


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## Rellortnoc

That works!  BTW, what’s the hinge for?


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## hman

It was used as a "trailer hitch," to allow using the carriage to drive the tailstock for deep drilling.  The photos show a #10 screw.  I later changed to a ¼" screw with a Dremel ground partial undercut on the side of the the shank - to form a small "hook" that would more positively stay inside the T-slot of the slide.


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## Tozguy

Great idea hman!


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## Canuck75

Fabrickator, - 

This is a great subject and you did a really neat job.
I did the same for my 1963 10" SB and it is one of the best and useful mods made to my lathe, right up there with the DRO.

Cheers


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## GunsOfNavarone

Yeah...I have the old tool post cap/handle. Just gotta drill and tap it. It's a shallow blind hole, seems like you'd need a flat/non tapered tap to do this @Rellortnoc  ? I feel like I'd bottom out and only thread about half the cap?


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## GunsOfNavarone

So I went ahead and drilled/tapped old tool post, shortened the bolt a couple threads that runs through the locking plate. I got it to a point where in the most commonly used area along ways, it locks and unlocks. One interesting thing, and I don't know if anyone has this issue, it wont tighten enough to lock the TS at the first 5 or so inches to the right side of ways. Anyone else run into this?


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## Tozguy

GunsOfNavarone said:


> One interesting thing, and I don't know if anyone has this issue, it wont tighten enough to lock the TS at the first 5 or so inches to the right side of ways. Anyone else run into this?


Yes I have. Others have also reported the same observation. My cam lock is set to work best in the area where it is most frequently used. However, when the TS is parked at the extreme tail end of the ways the cam goes over center. The cam could be adjusted to work everywhere but I prefer to have the cam at around 11 o'clock when it is working.


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## GunsOfNavarone

Yeah, I really don’t need to lock it in that far right position...so no biggie. I’m happy, thanks for the idea!


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