# PM1340GT with a 3 jaw Pratt Burnerd 6" SETRITE



## mksj (Jan 7, 2015)

A consideration for individuals buying a new PM1340GT or similar lathe package is to consider including either a Bison Set-Tru, Pratt Burnerd SETRITE or even the something like the Grizzly or Shar's adjustable version's if on a budget. Note that some chucks are 6.31" (160mm) and some are 6" (152mm), so check all the specs.

The stock Taiwanese chuck that came with the PM1340GT is nicely machined, but mine had a TIR of 0.008" out of the box. A bit of tweaking and I was able to get this down to ~0.002" with a repeat reproducibility of ~0.003", which is about expected. There is variation, so some may be better or worse. A credit to the PM1340GT machining, the spindle nose TIR is almost unmeasurable at 0.0001".

So I decided to upgrade to a Set-Tru 6" three jaw chuck, they are also available in 2, 4 and 6 jaws to suit your needs. I narowed the choices down to the Bison Set-Tru and Pratt Burnerd SETRITE, mostly because I was looking for chucks with higher quality builds. The Buck, which is now made in Taiwan, was more expensive then either of these when you compared pricing with a backing plate. If you can afford it, buy once, as opposed to upgrading multiple times frm lesser quality. Normally I would have gone with the Bison version, but the Grizzly prices on both of the PB and Bison with a backing plate is very close. It is nice to see that Grizzly is carrying higher quality tooling, and I also noted that they carry Aloris and Dorian QCTP/holders at great pricing. I use a Dorian QCTP with Dorian and Aloris holders.

Anyway, so ordered the PB chuck with a D1-4 back plate from Grizzly, and got it fitted to the PM1340GT. The PB is nicely finished (although a few shipping dings), it uses uses a single pinion (Bison is 3) and comes with two piece jaws. Took about 30 minutes to adjust it, and the TIR is now  ~0.0001" (see attached video file, resolution is 0.0001/division) with a repeat  reproducibility of around 0.0003". Not that I can machine to those tolerances, with the previous chuck I had some problems hitting my target dimensions.  Since I am a newbie at the lathe, having a bit tighter tooling tolerances seems help, and I appreciate good tools. 

So, everything is a learning curve, and learning about good tooling is a process. The Set-Tru type lathe chuck was a pleasure to set-up and use. Definitely should be on the short list, I would give this consideration if you are looking at a packaged deal (including a chuck) when buying a new lathe.


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## wrmiller (Jan 7, 2015)

I already have a PB on my list for my 1340GT.


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## Coug67 (Mar 17, 2015)

I'm a little confused.  I have a 1340 on order myself, and I thought the spec said guaranteed .0001 runout.  Is that just at the spindle bearing itself?  You're saying (and I'm not disputing) the true runout was almost 80 times the listed spec. That seems excessive given the quality build that I keep seeing in the reviews on this lathe.  I'm (almost) completely new to machining, so maybe that's a stupid question.  I guess I assumed the runout was measured at the chuck nose with the supplied chuck.  Could you enlighten someone who's still learning?


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## mksj (Mar 17, 2015)

We are here to share and also learn, so never a stupid question. The spindle runout is 0.0001". The chuck mounts to the spindle and is locked on, the pm1340gt uses a D1-4 mount. The chucks come in various levels of quality and specs. There is also the repeatability of the setting. Most quality non Set-Tru or Setrite type chucks have a TIR spec of something like 0.002" or better, while Set-Tru type (which use small screws to allow microadjustment in centering the chuck) usually have a repeat TIR of something like 0.0004" for a 6" chuck. There are a number of factors that can influence the TIR. Some backing plates are fully machined, others require you to take a skim cut on your machine to true it up. Runout may also be positional, in particular a Set-Tru type, so use alignment marks so it always mounts in the same position.

My general comment, is that if you need a high level of accuracy and repeatability, I would invest in higher quality chucks up front if the budget allows. I ended up replacing all the stock chucks, which were very reasonable priced, but I needed better TIR and repeatability specs. I also look at this as an investment over many years of use. I did not appreciate the total $ amount required to properly tool the lathe,  but it is a significant part of the total cost.


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## wrmiller (Mar 17, 2015)

I have a Pratt 8" set-tru three jaw just waiting for me to finish setting up my 1340.


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## tmarks11 (Mar 17, 2015)

As long as you don't need to recheck your part, once you start turning the part down, a TIR of 0.005" on the 3 jaw chuck does't matter, as the TIR of the spindle is what matters.

But if you then remove the part from the three jaw, and re-chuck it, the next turning you do will not be concentric with the first cuts.

So unless you have a set-true (adjustable) style 3 jaw, you don't re-chuck with a 3 jaw.  If you have to do a second cut in a different setup (like reverse the part in the chuck), you either use a 4 jaw (which you adjust to get 0 TIR on the part), or a 5C collet (which tends to be more accurate than most 3 jaws).

The Beauty of the set-true is that you CAN use it for re-chucking parts, since you can adjust it to get 0 TIR. Oh, and adjusting the set-true is 1000x easier (and considerably quicker) than zeroing a part in a normal 4 jaw.


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## wrmiller (Mar 17, 2015)

tmarks11 said:


> The Beauty of the set-true is that you CAN use it for re-chucking parts, since you can adjust it to get 0 TIR. Oh, and adjusting the set-true is 1000x easier (and considerably quicker) than zeroing a part in a normal 4 jaw.



While I agree with you on this, I was told by some here that the opposite is true.

Probably just depends on who becomes familiar with what.


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## tmarks11 (Mar 17, 2015)

Longer to adjust with a set true?

1. Loosen the 4 holding cap headed bolts, than snug them up hand tight.
2. Back out the 4 adjustment screws
3. DTI on the chuck, spin it to the high point, use the opposite side screw and adjust it half way to 0
4. IMPORTANT: back that adjustment screw back out again (the snugged up holding cap screws keep the chuck positioned).
5. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until zeroed.
6. Tight the holding cap headed bolts.
7. hand snug the adjustment screws (don't tighten them up... they don't hold the chuck in position).

This should take no more than about 2 minutes.  It is awesome.

The four jaw I can get zeroed in 3-4 minutes, but if you have an aluminum part, you have to be careful not to damage it, when you tend to want to crank down on one of the jaws to shift its position.


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## wrmiller (Mar 17, 2015)

Relax dude, I said that I agree. 

I can set a set-true in half the time or faster than I can a four jaw. But to be truthful I have more time on a set-true.


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## coolidge (Mar 17, 2015)

Yes but...I found this process rather annoying on the Bison since the adjustment screws are not at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o-clock. So you get into loosening two and tightening two, back and forth, yeah I had to take a time out I was getting hot under the collar. That my CHINA test indicator was in the process of falling apart at the time may have been a contributing factor.  Since replaced with a Mitutoyo. Bill are the adjustments screws on the Pratt Burnerd different?


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## Coug67 (Mar 17, 2015)

MKSJ, thank you for the reply!  It's great how a little explanation can clear things up.  I can't wait to start getting my hands dirty and seeing some of this first hand!


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## tmarks11 (Mar 17, 2015)

coolidge said:


> Yes but...I found this process rather annoying on the Bison since the adjustment screws are not at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o-clock. So you get into loosening two and tightening two, back and forth, yeah I had to take a time out I was getting hot under the collar


 
Try doing it with all the adjustment screws backed out.  Keep the holding bolts snugged hand tight.  DTI to a high spot, tighten the adjustment screw at that spot to half the DTI, than back that screw out again.  Spin the chuck, DTI, and go to the next high spot.

The snugged up bolts hold the chuck in position, and only one adjustment screw is in contact with the chuck at a time (while you are adjusting).  Keeping the others backed out ensures that you are never fighting with one adjustment screw against another.

The brand I had (don't remember, probably Buck?) had all the adjustment screws at 90 degrees, which made it easier, but this method should still work.

I am glad you brought this up... I will be shopping for a set-true 3 jaw, and want to find one with adjustment screws at 90 degrees.  I wonder if Buck holds a patent that makes the other manufacturers put there adjustments at different points?


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## coolidge (Mar 17, 2015)

Well that "*only one adjustment screw is in contact with the chuck at a time*" makes perfect sense now that you explained it thanks for the tip.


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## wrmiller (Mar 17, 2015)

Coolidge: Not sure what you mean by "different"? My BTC on the SB and the Pratt have 4 adjustment screws spaced 90 deg. apart. Not any different than zeroing using four jaws really. I can't put it into words but I visualize a series of angles when the high spot doesn't fall on a 90 deg. vector and will go to the smallest angle and adjust according to how far off a 90 deg. vector I am. Probably makes no sense but I don't know how else to explain it. But I'm only letting tension off one screw and tightening the opposing one at any one time. I usually only have to do this a few times and I'm done.


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## tmarks11 (Mar 17, 2015)

wrmiller19 said:


> Coolidge: Not sure what you mean by "different"? My BTC on the SB and the Pratt have 4 adjustment screws spaced 90 deg. apart.


A quick google shows others complaining of similar issues, and it apparently is somewhat random.  Bison makes some chucks with the 90 degree spacing, but other models from Bison set the two pairs of adjustment screws at like 70 degrees to each other.  Some other manufacturers make chucks with only 3 adjustment screws.

Haven't tried the other arrangement, but I was very happy with the 90 degree version that I used before.

Bill, do you have a South Bend "zero adjust" chuck?  What do you think?  They look like 30% cheaper than PBA, Buck, or Bison.


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## coolidge (Mar 17, 2015)

Correct my Bison SetTru adjusting screws are not at 90 degrees. This makes it way more complicated. Lets say the four set screws are numbered 1,2,3 and 4. You find that you have to loosen BOTH 1 and 3 and tighten BOTH 2 and 4, or you have to loosen 1 a little, 3 a bit more, tighten 2 a little and tighten 4 a bit more its really pretty annoying. I would not purchase another one of these Bison chucks its that annoying to me.


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## wrmiller (Mar 18, 2015)

tmarks11 said:


> A quick google shows others complaining of similar issues, and it apparently is somewhat random.  Bison makes some chucks with the 90 degree spacing, but other models from Bison set the two pairs of adjustment screws at like 70 degrees to each other.  Some other manufacturers make chucks with only 3 adjustment screws.
> 
> Haven't tried the other arrangement, but I was very happy with the 90 degree version that I used before.
> 
> Bill, do you have a South Bend "zero adjust" chuck?  What do you think?  They look like 30% cheaper than PBA, Buck, or Bison.



Wow, thankfully, both of my chucks have the setscrews every 90 deg..

Tim: No, I don't have the South Bend zero adjust. I wasn't aware of it or it wasn't offered yet, but I ended up getting a 5" BTC (import) from a guy on Ebay who said it is similar in quality to Buck. All I know is when I adjust it for a specific diameter it repeats to thou or less.


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2015)

Very interesting, first time I've heard adjustable TIR chucks being quicker to adjust than a 4 jaw. I'm quicker adjusting the 4 jaw. I guess it might come down to what your more familiar with.

Another first time I've heard to back out the adjustment screws after dialing in. I prefer to leave them all tight cause if you leave them loose, it's easier for the chuck to get knocked out of round on heavy and/or interrupted cuts or a bump. But I don't use my Set-Tru function often to dial in every part. I dial it in for the lowest TIR so it has great repeatability on parts that are machined (which is why I don't use collets much in the lathe). I use my 4 jaw when I need to dial in a part for best accuracy.

As said the Bison 6.3" & 8" Set-Trus don't have the adjustment screws on 90° (not sure about the larger ones), like an X pattern. But my 5" Bison 6-jaw Set-Tru did have them at 90°. The placement has to do with the amount of pinions, the size out the adjustment screws, & the length of the chuck. The Bison Set-Trus that have large adjustment screws (M18), aren't clocked at 90deg, & have 3 pinions. The PB Set-Rites (up to 12") have 1 pinion & the adjusment screws are at 90°, I have no idea what size they use for the adjusment screws. The 6.5" (yes, 165mm, odd size) chuck on my super spacer has 3 pinions & the adjustment screws are at 90° but the set screws are much smaller than my Bison, like M8 or M10, I forget. I'd rather have them at 90° but it doesn't bother me as I'm used to the X placement now.

But one of the main differences between the Bison & PB adjustable chucks are that the PB Set-Rites are longer than the Bison Set-Trus. A 6.3" Bison is 2.677" long, a 6.3" PB Set-Rite is 2.88" long which gives more room for the adjustment screws to be placed at 90°. That's why the PBs weigh more than the Bisons. Although I don't like the additional hang out I'd still take a PB Set-Rite over the other common brands anytime. IIRC PB's Set-Rite design is Buck's old design, forget where I read that though.

I finally recently replaced my stock 3-jaw chuck (my least used chuck) with an inexpensive TMX semi-steel 6.3" Set-Tru. Figured it would just be a China copy of the Bison. Boy was I wrong & I sent that crap back the day after I received it. I went with the TMX cause it had 3 pinions which I prefer over 1 pinion. It had the adjustment screws off 90°. So now I have on the way a Fuerda (Gator) semi-steel adjustable but has only 1 pinion (their forged body version has 3 pinions). I believe the adjustment screws are at 90° but I'm not sure, I'll know later this week. I'm pretty happy with their 4-jaw, I should have went with Fuerda to begin with as my gut feeling told me to.


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## Coug67 (Mar 18, 2015)

I wonder if I might get everyone's opinion on a somewhat unrelated topic.  Still talking about the 1340GT and tolerance, so if you stretch really hard it sorta goes in here.  Question is "How important is a DRO to you?"  I have more or less spent my budget (and then some) on this new machine, but I wanted something that would be good quality and last me a long time.  I would like to purchase the DRO option, but that's REALLY stretching.  I understand that every measurement can be made with manual instruments -- calipers, mics, etc, but the DRO seems like it would make things soooo much nicer until you get down to absolute finish dimensions.  If I don't purchase the DRO with delivery of my new lathe, chances are that I will never purchase it.  The money can be made available, I may just have to sleep on the couch for a while. ;-)  I'll have to make a decision  in the next day or two.  Thoughts?


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2015)

Coug67 said:


> How important is a DRO to you?



To me, very important...now. You don't "need" a DRO just like you don't "need" a QCTP. It's one of those things that after having one, you wouldn't want to be without one. A DRO won't necessarily make your parts more accurate or make you a better machinist but it will make operations much faster & easier.

I purchased my current lathe without a DRO, mainly cause I wanted to install my own setup but also cause I wanted to get familiar with the lathe without a DRO first. When I took the conventional machining classes at the local CC with my brother (he needed the credits & I was his ride anyway), I specifically did not want to use the lathes & mills with DROs. If you aren't already, you should really get familar with using machines without DROs first. That way you aren't "useless" if one fails or anytime you need to use a machine without one.

IMO a DRO is much useful on a mill than on a lathe. I can get by on a lathe without a DRO no problem without cussing, but on a mill without a DRO, operations & keeping track of coordinates is extremely more time consuming compared to not having a DRO on a lathe.

I'd opt for the DRO if you can. But if you can't & really want some sort of DRO, you could always mount some of those iGaging scales. They're like long digital calipers with remote readouts. Not as great a true DRO with limited functionality & accuracy but they are very inexpensive.


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## coolidge (Mar 18, 2015)

I'm just the opposite, I'm fine on a mill without a DRO I do my layout with measuring tools, mark and center punch and have at it. The lathe on the other hand...now did I crank the wheel 8 turns or was it 9 trying to keep track of that is maddening. The DRO made life a lot easier for me on the lathe. You can get buy without one its not like the lathe is useless without a DRO but every post I ever read after someone installed one on their lathe raved about how much easier it was afterwards. I guess it depends on what you are doing, I'm turning to tight tolerances on the lathe, the mill not so much.


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## mksj (Mar 18, 2015)

Agree with darkzero on the DRO, especially on the mill. My dials were inaccurate which made the DRO mandatory for my mill. On a lathe, it really depends on your experience and what you are use to. I did add an Igaging absolute DRO to the tail stock, I would loose count of the revolutions. But I would not recommend using the Igaging for the X Y axis, too many issues with accuracy and battery life, for a small amount more you can get a full DRO display with glass scales. It is a great benefit in repeatability and decreases mistakes in position. I would recommend the basic  Easson ES-8A, you will kick yourself spending this much on a lathe and not having a DRO. Cut the budget on the Chuck and maybe try a Gator or Shars Set-Tru type if you go that  route.

I might be missing something on the Set-Tru chuck setup, I partially tighten the mounting bolts, and tighten the 4 alignment set screws. I aligned the chuck the same way as a 4 jaw chuck, slightly loosen one side and tightening the opposite side. I keep constant tension on all 4 set screws, onced aligned I do final tightening of the chuck mounting bolts, and recheck the alignment.. It may take 2-3 times to get it close to no runout.  Once set, that's it. The TIR remains stable, and does not vary ( better than 0.0004") with repeat use.  An independent 4 jaw requires aliagnment every time, and is time consuming to set-up, especially for repeated use. The 3 jaw Setrite PBA works great, so very happy with it.  Waiting for Bill's review of his


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## tmarks11 (Mar 18, 2015)

darkzero said:


> Another first time I've heard to back out the adjustment screws after dialing in. I prefer to leave them all tight cause if you leave them loose, it's easier for the chuck to get knocked out of round on heavy and/or interrupted cuts or a bump.



Only while you are doing the adjustments; that prevents you from tightening one screw against the screws on the other side, which slows the adjustment process way down.

Once you have the chuck dialed in, tighten the holding cap screw, and snug the adjustment screws (finger tight).  If you left the adjustment screws backed out, eventually they would work their way out and come flying loose.

The adjustment screws aren't really designed to hold the chuck in position. that is what the cap headed holding screws are for.



mksj said:


> I might be missing something on the Set-Tru chuck setup, I partially tighten the mounting bolts, and tighten the 4 alignment set screws. I aligned the chuck the same way as a 4 jaw chuck, slightly loosen one side and tightening the opposite side.



You can do it that way, but it is considerably slower.  Use the cap head mounting bolts finger tight to keep the chuck in place on the backing plate, and use the adjustment screws (one at a time) to nudge the high points back in.  Try it; it should take about 1/4 of the time the way you are describing would take.


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2015)

tmarks11 said:


> The adjustment screws aren't really designed to hold the chuck in position. that is what the cap headed holding screws are for.



I disagree but to each each his own.


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## mgalusha (Mar 18, 2015)

I have one of the Shars 6 jaw 8" set tru's arriving tomorrow, so I'll provide some feedback on it. The latest Shars catalog makes it appear that they've upped their game with regard to the chucks but we shall see. If it sucks, back it goes but the photos make it look pretty nice. 3 pinion design.  Of note, they sell them for much less on ebay than their website. The 8" 6 jaw was like $700 on the site and 548 on the bay, the mounting plate was the same price of $93. 

On the DRO's, if you can swing it, do so. I could live without it but the SDM (multiple tool) function along with a QCTP has saved enough time to have paid for the DRO. Of course this is only if you have to make multiples of the same part.


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## Coug67 (Mar 19, 2015)

Thanks again for the input on the DRO.  I'm still waffling a little, but I think I'm going to splurge and get it.  My biggest issue with the extremely small amount of lathe work I've done is cumulative error.  Move over .125 for this, then another bit for that (think cooling fins), repeat.  By the time I'm done, everything LOOKS ok to the naked eye, but the end measurements are off.  I realize that will come with experience and a DRO is no substitute for careful measuring and attention to detail, but it would definitely make life easier.  Right now, Matt is out of the Easson 8 DRO, so he offered me the Eason 12 at the same add-on price.  I'm sure I'd kick myself down the road if I don't take advantage of it.  Got the email today that my lathe is in, and they are starting the inspection.  Can't wait to get this thing in my garage and start making lots of little curly chips!


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## Coug67 (Mar 19, 2015)

darkzero said:


> To me, very important...now. You don't "need" a DRO just like you don't "need" a QCTP. It's one of those things that after having one, you wouldn't want to be without one. A DRO won't necessarily make your parts more accurate or make you a better machinist but it will make operations much faster & easier.
> 
> I purchased my current lathe without a DRO, mainly cause I wanted to install my own setup but also cause I wanted to get familiar with the lathe without a DRO first. When I took the conventional machining classes at the local CC with my brother (he needed the credits & I was his ride anyway), I specifically did not want to use the lathes & mills with DROs. If you aren't already, you should really get familar with using machines without DROs first. That way you aren't "useless" if one fails or anytime you need to use a machine without one.
> 
> ...



I completely understand what your saying about learning on a machine without a DRO before using a machine with one.  It's all about having a firm grip on the fundamentals before you learn the shortcuts.  I really need to check into the local CC's to see what kind of machining classes are available.  I've been slowly learning using the more expensive and time consuming "trial and break things" method.  NOT the best way to do things.  Mechanically I'm pretty decent, but this machining thing is kicking my butt.  So far I've had pretty good luck in aluminum, but I tend to burn up tools on steel.  I've watched a ton of videos and read all sorts of training material, but seeing and doing are two different beasts.  I guess for now I'll just take it slow and keep reading in places like this.


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## mksj (Mar 19, 2015)

The ES-12 is a great deal at the ES-8A price, lots of adjustability.  I have one my PM1340GT, it a 2-axis DRO set up in the menu system for a lathe. Accurate and great for repeatability. Glass scales are fine. I think it is money well spent given the rest of the investment. It will be interesting to get some feedback on the Shar's Set-Tru type chucks, otherwise checkout Gator's chucks at  http://www.tools4cheap.net/fuerda.php


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## GA Gyro (Mar 19, 2015)

Coug67 said:


> Thanks again for the input on the DRO.  I'm still waffling a little, but I think I'm going to splurge and get it.  My biggest issue with the extremely small amount of lathe work I've done is cumulative error.  Move over .125 for this, then another bit for that (think cooling fins), repeat.  By the time I'm done, everything LOOKS ok to the naked eye, but the end measurements are off.  I realize that will come with experience and a DRO is no substitute for careful measuring and attention to detail, but it would definitely make life easier.  Right now, Matt is out of the Easson 8 DRO, so he offered me the Eason 12 at the same add-on price.  I'm sure I'd kick myself down the road if I don't take advantage of it.  Got the email today that my lathe is in, and they are starting the inspection.  Can't wait to get this thing in my garage and start making lots of little curly chips!



If it were me, I would jump on that E-12 before Matt changes his mind... I have a '12' on my mill, great DRO!
BTW: Back during the endless questions before ordering phase... Ray told me mounting the scales on a 1340GT is a bit more difficult than other smaller lathes... IMO if I wanted a DRO, I would go ahead and have Matt's shop guys mount the DRO (at least the scales) now.  They have the templates, it is just going through the motions (motions they go through repeatedly on many 1340's).  For me to figure it out and do it, would be an all afternoon deal.


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## darkzero (Mar 19, 2015)

The ES-8A is perfectly fine on a lathe but I'd definitely hop on that ES-12 offer. I have the ES-12 on my mill & like it a lot. Unfortunately there's really no advantage of having the ES-12 on a lathe as you won't be able to use all the other features (mill features) but it really is a nice DRO. In fact the ES-8A can basically do everything the ES-12 can but the ES-12 is a graphical display.


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## Coug67 (Mar 20, 2015)

I took the plunge and ordered the DRO with the lathe.  Check's already in the mail.  I can always turn it off while I'm learning.  Completely blew my budget, but I think I would've regretted it later had I passed up the opportunity.  Now it's time to play the waiting game.  This is gonna be more painful than a kid waiting for Christmas!!


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## Coug67 (Mar 20, 2015)

mksj said:


> The stock Taiwanese chuck that came with the PM1340GT is nicely machined, but mine had a TIR of 0.008" out of the box.



MKSJ, are you referring to the stock chuck or the chucks in  the "preferred" package (or is that one-in-the-same)?  Either way I'm going to be stuck for a while with whatever comes on the machine, but I might as well start budgeting now if that's what needs to happen.


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## coolidge (Mar 20, 2015)

Coug67 said:


> *I took the plunge and ordered the DRO* with the lathe.  Check's already in the mail.  I can always turn it off while I'm learning.  *Completely blew my budget*, but I think I would've regretted it later had I passed up the opportunity.  Now it's time to play the waiting game.  This is gonna be more painful than a kid waiting for Christmas!!



Our work is done here


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## GA Gyro (Mar 20, 2015)

coolidge said:


> Our work is done here





Followed by...



Believe me... most of us here have been victim to 'the work'.... yet we all made the decision to totally blow the budget. 
And most of us are happy we did! 

When you have it in your shop, set up, aligned, making chips, and not so clean anymore... you will forget all about the 'purchase' budget... the 'tooling' budget will be the issue...


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## coolidge (Mar 20, 2015)

I think his decision to buy the DRO was spot on, he won't regret that decision one bit.


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## GA Gyro (Mar 20, 2015)

coolidge said:


> I think his decision to buy the DRO was spot on, he won't regret that decision one bit.



I agree with you Coolidge... Just having a little fun with your image...


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## mksj (Mar 21, 2015)

The stock PM1340GT preferred equipment package chucks (the base package does not include chucks), includes a 3 jaw 6" chuck made in Taiwan and the 4 jaw 8" independent. There is a bit of variability in the run out, my 3 Jaw TIR on a good day was a bit over 0.002", this is about what you expect for a non-adjustable type. The 4 jaw independent made in China, was out of balance (with the jaws in the same position) due to irregular castings, could not get it above 230 RPM without significant vibration. OK to start, but have since upgraded both chucks.


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## Coug67 (Mar 21, 2015)

Got it.  I always assumed (yeah, I know what that gets ya) that some kind of chuck is part of a complete base machine -- at least a basic, usable (if poor quality) 3-jaw.  I opted for the preferred package thinking it was an upgrade to the "stock" chuck.  Goes to show how clueless I am.  Disappointed to hear that the 4-jaw is essentially junk.  I could see myself using that one a lot.  Guess I know what my next purchase is going to be as soon as my checkbook recovers a little.


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## mgalusha (Mar 23, 2015)

mksj said:


> It will be interesting to get some feedback on the Shar's Set-Tru type chucks, otherwise checkout Gator's chucks at  http://www.tools4cheap.net/fuerda.php



I cleaned up and mounted the chuck on Saturday. I am thus far totally happy with it. The "fully machined" back plate isn't but that is fine since it needs to be trued on the machine. I used a known true dowel pin to dial it in, I can remove and rechuck the pin with < .0002 difference. I chucked up a piece of 1.25" ground 304 shafting and it was less than .001 out, so for me not much to complain about. The removable jaws fit very well on the ones in the chuck and much to my surprise use imperial screws. I didn't take a lot of photos but one with three jaws off and one holding a 3.5" piece of copper just to see how it worked on thin parts. I also tried a ring of 304 SS that was .625x.750 and about .2 wide, just to see how it would hold something short and thin. My only complaint is why I waited, this piece is worlds better than the 3 jaw that came with the machine.


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