# Window shopping, and dreaming



## Aukai (Sep 24, 2020)

I have the PM 1228LB lathe, and I'm considering going to a 1236, the T ultra is 1K more, 1/2 hp less(2vs1.5) for the T, only 1/16 more through  bore. The foot print listed is 60" for the 1228, 61" for the 1236, and 67" for the ultra, I'm space limited. Knowing myself, I doubt my skill level will get to the level of being able to need the ultra. Then there is buy once cry once, but the 1 K diff can go to shipping. I like the 1228's RPM readout, that the 36s seem to be lacking. My 1228 has had limited use in the last 2 years, so is it unrealistic to be thinking in the 3K range for resale with some extras, and tooling? Thanks for reading my ramble, insight, and criticism welcome.


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## Aukai (Sep 24, 2020)

Your back  
If a good deal doesn't come up on a quality used lathe, I'm leaning to the 1236T


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## mikey (Sep 24, 2020)

Mike, what exactly is it about your PM1228 that you don't like? What is driving you to consider upgrading your lathe? And if you're really looking to upgrade, is the PM 1340GT not a better candidate?


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## Aukai (Sep 24, 2020)

I am length challenged, but for what I'm doing at the moment the 1228 is too short, spindle bore I'll have to live with it seems. 70" is going to crowd me, but is/can be tolerated. Now I'm another K out, plus shipping, but my horded parts will transfer, the 1228 can go still equipped well, and hopefully at a decent price. All the axa stuff will go, 3 jaw, and 4 jaw too. If I can sell the 1228 it will make it easier. Gonna have to stay off Ebay


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## mikey (Sep 24, 2020)

Oh, okay, too short and you want to be able to use your existing tooling on your new lathe - got it. 

Stay off ebay? Not happening!


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## shooter123456 (Sep 24, 2020)

Aukai said:


> I have the PM 1228LB lathe, and I'm considering going to a 1236, the T ultra is 1K more, 1/2 hp less(2vs1.5) for the T, only 1/16 more through  bore. The foot print listed is 60" for the 1228, 61" for the 1236, and 67" for the ultra, I'm space limited. Knowing myself, I doubt my skill level will get to the level of being able to need the ultra. Then there is buy once cry once, but the 1 K diff can go to shipping. I like the 1228's RPM readout, that the 36s seem to be lacking. My 1228 has had limited use in the last 2 years, so is it unrealistic to be thinking in the 3K range for resale with some extras, and tooling? Thanks for reading my ramble, insight, and criticism welcome.


I have the 1236T and there are a few big things going for it.  The biggest thing I think is the QCGB giving you all your imperial threads and a range of feeds without having to mess with the gears.  That has been a huge time saver for me.  Turning up the feed to find one that will get a chip to break is also a nice bonus. 

I don't know how much your skill level will matter in this case as your skill will improve with more time and practice regardless of what machine you are using. 

The reason there is no RPM readout on the 1236 models is that they have a single speed motor with gears to change the speed.  Since they aren't infinitely variable, a readout would be redundant.  You will know the speed based on the gear arrangement you selected. 

Resale value will vary, but if you clean it up well, present it well, and are patient, I imagine $3k would be doable.


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## mksj (Sep 24, 2020)

If you decide to go with the 1236T, I would recommend going 3 phase, add the WJ200-015SF to the order and do a basic VFD install that has been posted. You can add a spindle tach for $30-40 or just get a handheld. You will get controlled acceleration and quick braking, surface finish and motor longevity are improved. I would check with Matt, I seem to recall the 3 phase motor was 2 Hp and the single phase was 1.5Hp on this model. Small differences between the 1236T and 1340GT. I guess one needs to decide if going from a 1228 to a 1236 is worth the spend factor.


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## Aukai (Sep 24, 2020)

The great instigator has me checking out the 1340GT now, all my chucks, and stuff will cross over. I have a 5 hp RPC for the saw, if that will power the 3 phase lathe too. I have read that the 3 phase is preferred, and promotes a better finish quality, but I have not seen an explanation as to why. I'll check with my electric Doc to see on the 5 hp RPC


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## mksj (Sep 24, 2020)

Three phase has smoother power delivery of 3 staggered phases simultaneously which results in  less motor pulsations then single phase. There are different factors that effect this and also depends on the type of work one does as to the impact. Seems somewhat variable to the degree that one notices it and also depends on the lathe drive system. Other factors to consider is much faster controlled braking with a VFD, in particular w/o a mechanical foot brake. Another concern that one sees with single phase motors is that if one attempts to do a fast switching from forward to reverse, the motor may not reverse. If you have an RPC or decide on a VFD, I would recommend 3 phase. You also do not need to deal with failing start capacitors and limited start/stop cycles due to capacitor over heating.








						Single Phase or 3-Phase?
					

Hi Guys  I am in the process of purchasing a new lathe.  I have the option of 1-phase or 3-phase power.  My shop is wired with single phase. I am aware of the benefits of a VFD ..... but that adds about $500 to the cost of the lathe. And, based on the anticipated use of the lathe, I do not place...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


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## mickri (Sep 24, 2020)

I know nothing about these machines. 

My first thought was that if you only need more distance between centers why not buy just the longer bed and swap all of your stuff over to the longer bed.  You would need a longer lead screw also.  Then I looked at the parts list for both the 28 and the 36 and the beds look to be different.  Probably won't work.

Second thought is a to buy another bed for your lathe.  Cut off the tailstock end of the bed at the length you want and mount it inline with your existing bed.  To get that extra 8" you want only the tailstock is going to be on the extension.  You might get away with the existing lead screws.  If you need the cross slide to go further back then you would need longer lead screws.  I know this sounds really off the wall but it would get you the longer bed you want at a fraction of the cost of a new lathe.  I recall seeing an old photo of a craftsman lathe where somebody had done this.  Something to think about.


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## Aukai (Sep 24, 2020)

Thanks, I like the idea, but I don't want to find out I messed something up, and end up in worse shape. This guy Murphy is a stalker I am much too familiar with. They must have defunded our police here too, cuz they can't find him.


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## mickri (Sep 24, 2020)

Here is a crude cut and paste that I did in paint.   Get Mikey on it.  I bet he could make it work.





Isn't Murphy a real pain.  I wish that they'd catch him too.


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## Aukai (Sep 24, 2020)

That has potential, Mikey don't get out much, he has a lot going on, this would definitely turn into a project. Thanks for making the representation.


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## mickri (Sep 24, 2020)

I did a search for lathe bed extension and discovered it is pretty common on wood working lathes.  I found this for a small metal lathe. http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/lathe-bed-extension.html  And this on PM  https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/lathe-bed-extension-248946/  And this




I was just teasing about Mikey.  I know he has a lot going on taking care of his wife, mom and mother in law.  I only have my mom to take care of and that fills my day at times.


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## mikey (Sep 24, 2020)

Yeah, I do have a lot going on, but I still have enough time in between disasters to cause a lot of trouble here!   

Think 1340GT ... a lot of lathe for not much more money than the T - hardened gears and spindle, precision spindle bearings, more mass and rigidity, etc, etc. If you're going to step up, may as well step UP, not sideways!


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## Aukai (Sep 24, 2020)

Mikey, the sock drawer needs reinforcements, on a good note I got 600 bucks worth of bats, and gaffs ordered, and sold.

Mark I got through all the reading, thank you for the link.


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## Aukai (Sep 24, 2020)

I got the all clear for the 5 hp RPC, so the 3 phase is a go, web site says mid November. I'm calling for belt tension parts tomorrow for the 1228. Then we'll see...


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## tweinke (Sep 24, 2020)

Mikey strikes again! Hard to fight with solid reasoning!


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## Aukai (Sep 24, 2020)

Yeah, this is going to put him in the SPM hall of fame, if it goes through. Will, and the gang will be choking on his dust,,,,


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## mikey (Sep 25, 2020)

Aukai said:


> Will, and the gang will be choking on his dust,,,,



Hah, as if. Will has gotten me to buy more tools than anyone else on this site. I blame him for his influence. I am but a shadow in his "enablingness".


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## mikey (Sep 25, 2020)

Aukai said:


> Mikey, the sock drawer needs reinforcements, on a good note I got 600 bucks worth of bats, and gaffs ordered, and sold.



Congrats, Mike. I'm happy that folks recognize a good product for a really good price when they see it. If those bats take off, they might just pay for that new PM1340GT!


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## Aukai (Sep 25, 2020)

HAHA, I'm hoping, the retailer is enthusiastic, the fisherman is seeing the hook. I still have about 5 more bats to make, pretty much sold. Then we'll see how it goes. The bats are not cheap, and the competition is T ball bats that are throw away every so many months.


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## Aukai (Sep 26, 2020)

I have a little breathing room, the 1 phase 1340GTs are gone until the next order. there are a couple of 3 phase unreserved. I can get into one at 6075.00 plus shipping, 20% down for the no chuck, and no face plate. I have both, I need to decide on the QCTP, micrometer carriage stop, and I have a 5 hp RPC. Then they post a Victor 1640, driving me crazy.....New vs used unknown???


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## davidpbest (Sep 26, 2020)

If you enjoy Hayden, the Victor 16440 is a great reference recording.

I have both ER32 and ER40 collet chucks for my 935 mill and 1340 lathe.  Also have square and hex ER40 collet blocks for the mill. I tend to use the 32 for tool holding (spindle on mill, tailstock on the lathe) whereas I prefer the ER40 for material handling on both.  All of my collets are metric in spite of the fact that (almost all of) my tools, and a great deal of the raw stock I work with are imperial in size.  Don’t skimp on the ER nut.  The most reliably accurate ER nuts I have are Rego-Fix and worth the added cost.  Put a $50 precision collet in a $25 nut and you might as well have used a $7 collet.


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## Aukai (Sep 26, 2020)




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