# New to me Atlas TH42



## minsk (Jun 6, 2019)

I just bought this seriously brand new Atals TH42 with no chuck.
400 beans.

need to find a chuck of it...and recommendations...thinking 3 and 4 jaw


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## minsk (Jun 6, 2019)

can anyone reccommend a nice  3 and or 4 jaw chuck? THanx


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## bill70j (Jun 6, 2019)

minsk said:


> can anyone reccommend a nice  3 and or 4 jaw chuck? THanx


I bought a 4-jaw and a back plate for my Atlas QC-42 from Little Machine Shop.  Worked out great.


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## mmcmdl (Jun 6, 2019)

Chucks are readily available from just about anyone . The Atlas' are very common lathes . I just picked up a 3996 and have been investigating tooling for it .


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## minsk (Jun 6, 2019)

thanks guys...trying to go all original...i know it will be pricey...but this thing is miiiiint and deserves it


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## minsk (Jun 6, 2019)

bill70j said:


> I bought a 4-jaw and a back plate for my Atlas QC-42 from Little Machine Shop.  Worked out great.
> View attachment 296115


i wished mine was a qc


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## mmcmdl (Jun 6, 2019)

I have Atlas chucks , collet drawbars , nose pieces , collets( 3 atc)  and lots of other junk for that lathe . I also have the 3996 . None of this stuff is in my better interest so it's going to go . Pittsburgh isn't far from me and I may be taking a hike up to Dusquane University soon . My daughter just applied for a position up there . 

That lathe IS in nice condition .


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## WCraig (Jun 7, 2019)

minsk said:


> thanks guys...trying to go all original...i know it will be pricey...but this thing is miiiiint and deserves it


Original may be pretty difficult.  Maybe Joel at MyMachineShop.net can help?





__





						Volusion Demo Store
					





					www.mymachineshop.net
				



[Joel really should fix the displayed name of his site^^.]

Craig


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## mmcmdl (Jun 7, 2019)

Hey Minsk , check the for sale thread below , not sure what you're looking for .


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## wa5cab (Jun 10, 2019)

Sounds like you need to look at the "junk" that mmcmdl has and says that he is going to get rid of.


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## minsk (Jun 10, 2019)

he has no chucks for my th42


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## mikey (Jun 11, 2019)

Wait, you're posting this beauty and you're not going to give us the back story? Really?

That thing looks really nice. Is it original and in truly mint condition or was it painted to look pretty? Some parts have paint missing that looks like wear instead of rubbing off from moving so I'm curious. Nice lathe in either case.


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## minsk (Jun 11, 2019)

mikey said:


> Wait, you're posting this beauty and you're not going to give us the back story? Really?
> 
> That thing looks really nice. Is it original and in truly mint condition or was it painted to look pretty? Some parts have paint missing that looks like wear instead of rubbing off from moving so I'm curious. Nice lathe in either case.



Hahahaha, So seriously it was never used. that is original paint. the paint wear and chipping on the shiny bits is from it being moved  from place to place over the lat 60 years...there is not a metal chip to be found around it....the belt dry rotted so was replaced....id love to find an original one..everything is butter smooth..  now to find a nice original 3 and 4 jaw chuck ...the arbor is 1 1/2 -8 correct?


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## mmcmdl (Jun 11, 2019)

minsk said:


> he has no chucks for my th42



No chucks ???? I have chucks but no extra chucks . They will go with the lathe when sold . I do have other extra stuff for your Atlas that can go .


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## minsk (Jun 11, 2019)

thus no chucks  for Minsk. I'm going to hold out and find original ones. ...pm me prices and what you wanna sell sir. and thank you.

im going to get a quick change tool mount for the th42 is it AXA?


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## mmcmdl (Jun 11, 2019)

AXA or possibly OXA . Is that a 10" ? It looks similar to the 10" I sold last year . I have a bunch of collet stuff along with other things for the lathe . I'm in the process of gathering and sorting now . I think I have a picture of some of the things below .


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## minsk (Jun 11, 2019)

It is a 10   1 1/2 -8


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## wa5cab (Jun 11, 2019)

0XA would be a bit small.  Plus the U.S. manufacturers don't appear to have ever made anything smaller than AXA.

And the TH42 is a 10F with Timken spindle bearings, Horizontal countershaft and 42" long bed (so 24" between centers).


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## chuckitall (Jul 2, 2019)

Hello,
That’s a Nice Lathe and it does look Great for it’s age. I have an Atlas H42 that looks identical to your TH42 with the same color paint too. The only thing that I can find somewhat Different is that the color around the word (Atlas on the Logo and Tag) On mine it’s s Deep Red Color. 
I haven’t been able to find any information about an Atlas H42 and was wondering if my Label was a Misprinted (or a New Tag)? It’s On the original Stand according to the Person that sold it to me, but I don’t really know for sure? He said it was his Dads and it had been sitting for about 40 years. 

If you are familiar with this machine, if it is indeed a Model H42? Any information would be Greatly appreciated. 

Thanks


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## WCraig (Jul 2, 2019)

"THnn" means a lathe that has Timken bearnings and a Horizontal countershaft.  "Hnn" denotes a lathe that has babbit bearings.  More info at:






						Atlas lathes
					

Atlas 10-inch lathes from the first to last. Includes details of the British copies by Acorntools, Sphere and halifax



					www.lathes.co.uk
				




Craig


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## minsk (Jul 2, 2019)

chuckitall said:


> Hello,
> That’s a Nice Lathe and it does look Great for it’s age. I have an Atlas H42 that looks identical to your TH42 with the same color paint too. The only thing that I can find somewhat Different is that the color around the word (Atlas on the Logo and Tag) On mine it’s s Deep Red Color.
> I haven’t been able to find any information about an Atlas H42 and was wondering if my Label was a Misprinted (or a New Tag)? It’s On the original Stand according to the Person that sold it to me, but I don’t really know for sure? He said it was his Dads and it had been sitting for about 40 years.
> 
> ...


Chuckitall,
i do not know enough about these to know why your label is a deeper red. That is odd. It does look legit though. hmm


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## wa5cab (Jul 3, 2019)

Up until 1945, Atlas sold 10" lathes with either babbit or Timken spindle bearings and either vertical or horizontal countershafts.  Sometime during 1945, they discontinued the babbit bearings and the vertical countershafts.  The model numbers of all F-Series 10" lathes consist of one or two letters and two digits.  The valid letter combinations are V, H, TV and TH.  The valid numbers are 36, 42, 48 and 54, which are the nominal bed lengths.  Subtract 12 from the bed length for the nominal distance between centers.  From mid-1947, the letter combination QC (for Quick Change) was added.  By default, all QC's were also TH's but the letters were not present.  From about the same time, the 36" and 48" beds were discontinued.


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## Kernbigo (Jul 3, 2019)

the original atlas chucks are junk , buy something on the order of a buck, then you will have something


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## wa5cab (Jul 3, 2019)

I wouldn't consider it fair to call the original Atlas chucks as junk.  Quality wise, they are about as good as a Buck or a Pratt-Bernerd.  They just lack the two features that make the better chucks both more desirable and much more expensive.  If you can afford it, go for the better chuck.


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## markba633csi (Jul 3, 2019)

That motor pulley looks too large- or is it just the photo? 
Nice Atlas BTW
Mark


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## chuckitall (Jul 4, 2019)

Thank you WCraig and minsk for Giving Me enough  information to know that my Lathe is a Genuine Atlas Lathe. Also, wa5cab, Thank You for All the Detailed info you have given me about the Atlas H42 Lathe that I bought about 4 years ago along with a 1-HP VS Vertical Mill. 
I was beginning to think that it May have been One that was assembled out of spare parts and then labeled as an Atlas Lathe (since the Color on the Label was a Deeper Red) and I only found One listing for a Model Like mine. 
Markba633csi, I think it’s the picture that’s making the Pulley Look So Big, it’s actually Not that Large. 

I added the Quick Change Tool Head about a few Months after I got the Lathe and started learning to use the machine. In the process of learning to use it, I really began to Wish that it had a Variable Speed DC Motor and a Digital Meter for reading the speed of whatever’s Locked in the Chuck to control the rpm’s when turning different material types and threading (I’m not sure if it has the Gears to thread anything or Not)? There is a Thread pitch Cutting Chart and a Gear Change Chart Too, and there’s a Lot of Gears inside the Left Side Cover and a few that came in a Box with Extras for the Lathe. 
The Lathe works Great and does Everything it’s suppose to (except for the fact that I’m not sure if It Has everything Needed to do any Thread Cutting)? I’m lacking the knowledge and information as to if this Lathe is Capable of Cutting Threads or Not?

I have a 3-HP Continuous Run DC Variable Speed Motor from a Treadmill that I was thinking of putting on the Lathe, but I don’t know if it would Change the Speed of the Horizontal Drive Assembly or of that can be operated independently of the Chuck Turning Speed?
BTW, the Chuck had been a Replaced with a Newer   One that works really well. I can’t remember the Brand Name, I’ll have to look at it and then I will List exactly what it is later. All I remember is it has a Oval Raised Logo that’s light Orange with a Clear Raised Epoxy Looking Finish On it with a European Name (I think)?
Thank you all for the information and thanks in advance for your advice and recommendations on updating the Motor sometime soon.


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## minsk (Aug 31, 2019)

Hey guys  finally got a nice table for the Atlas. Home depot had a sale on these husky mobile carts. I have a nice Phase 2 qctp on the way. Question. So the PO wired  the lathe all wacky...im looking for the original wiring diagram for the lathe..i wanna use the original switch etc. does anyone have any pics of how the switch is wired to the original motor.


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## Latinrascalrg1 (Aug 31, 2019)

minsk said:


> Hey guys  finally got a nice table for the Atlas. Home depot had a sale on these husky mobile carts. I have a nice Phase 2 qctp on the way. Question. So the PO wired  the lathe all wacky...im looking for the original wiring diagram for the lathe..i wanna use the original switch etc. does anyone have any pics of how the switch is wired to the original motor.
> 
> View attachment 301263


It might help if you could draw up a simple schematic of how the lathe is currently wired.  This will both show us what may or may not be correct as it sits and which motor and switch type you are working with.  Pictures  will help too.


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## minsk (Aug 31, 2019)

Latinrascalrg1 said:


> It might help if you could draw up a simple schematic of how the lathe is currently wired.  This will both show us what may or may not be correct as it sits and which motor and switch type you are working with.  Pictures  will help too.


basically the added a plug in the middle... i jsut need to see how the switch wire goes in the the  motor originally...


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## wa5cab (Aug 31, 2019)

Also say whether the lathe has the original headstock mounted ON-OFF toggle switch or not and/or a larger drum switch.  If the headstock switch is present, does it have two or four terminals?  And if present, what is the make and model number of the drum switch?  There have been many different drum switches made, and how they must be wired is almost always different one to another.


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## minsk (Aug 31, 2019)

sorry guys. its the original  toggle switch...think i'm going to do flexible conduit it into a t-conduit box. i have it wired up and working roughly  now...i just wanted to see what the original hardware looked like


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## wa5cab (Sep 1, 2019)

Atlas didn't sell lathes with motors installed, or for that matter even included, unless you bought a motor from them at the same time that you ordered the lathe.  So technically there is no original wiring.  As best I can determine, when you un-crated your new 10F, what you found was a 2-wire pigtail connected to the headstock mounted switch at one end and connected to nothing at the other.  After installing the motor mechanically, you opened up the junction box on the motor, added a (in those days most likely 2-wire) line cord, spliced the black line cord lead to the black switch lead, and connected the white switch lead and the white line cord lead to their appropriate terminals.  Then you replaced the cover over the junction box.  And if you were at least half smart, you test ran the motor before installing the motor belt.  Today, you would also connect the two green wires to a grounded screw or screws.  And if you are at least half smart, you wrap a short length of black tape or black shrink tubing around the white switch lead to signify that it might be hot.

The flexible conduit is a good idea.  It will keep the switch lead from getting oil soaked.


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## minsk (Sep 1, 2019)

wa5cab said:


> Atlas didn't sell lathes with motors installed, or for that matter even included, unless you bought a motor from them at the same time that you ordered the lathe.  So technically there is no original wiring.  As best I can determine, when you un-crated your new 10F, what you found was a 2-wire pigtail connected to the headstock mounted switch at one end and connected to nothing at the other.  After installing the motor mechanically, you opened up the junction box on the motor, added a (in those days most likely 2-wire) line cord, spliced the black line cord lead to the black switch lead, and connected the white switch lead and the white line cord lead to their appropriate terminals.  Then you replaced the cover over the junction box.  And if you were at least half smart, you test ran the motor before installing the motor belt.  Today, you would also connect the two green wires to a grounded screw or screws.  And if you are at least half smart, you wrap a short length of black tape or black shrink tubing around the white switch lead to signify that it might be hot.
> 
> The flexible conduit is a good idea.  It will keep the switch lead from getting oil soaked.


wow.
you are virual fountain of information
thank you so much as usual.
i was thinking of soldering all wire  connections and then double heat shrinking them.
I could just wire nut connections then wrap them in electrical tape

So not really being unused before,
none of the gears  are greased.
is there a recomnended grease for the  change gears etc.
i bought way oil.
what oil should go into the Git ports?
I want to keep this machine as pristine as i can.

i will of course google this.
but you seem to be the zen master of vintage machinery...so i value your opinion.

again thank you so much for all of your info.


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## wa5cab (Sep 1, 2019)

Wire nuts, if in good condition and if properly installed (twist the two or more wires together before installing the wire nuts) are adequate.  You do not need to apply black tape over them.  Soldering the wires together is not recommended because of what will happen should you ever need to disconnect the wires (the motor wiring is stranded and you will have a mess on your hands should you later try to disconnect them).  

Up until the late 50's, Atlas recommended SAE 10 ND for all locations except the gears.  Around 1960, they changed that recommendation to SAE 20 ND retroactive (ND means Non-Detergent).  So for all points other than the ways, that is what should be used.  Note that ISO 46 and ISO 68 both fall within the viscosity range of SAE 20 so either one of them is OK.  I have, when I couldn't locate any SAE 20 used Mobile Heavy Medium Circulating Oil ISO 68.  The one exception to this is that I think that way oil works better on the ways and wasn't perhaps readily available back then.  So I and I think most of us use that on the oilers on the carriage saddle and on the bottom of the tailstock.

The reasons for using non-detergent oil are that most of the detergents don't do anything beneficial on the lathe, they tend to cost more, and at least one of the additives is hydroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere) and a lathe or mill hopefully never gets hot enough to boil it off as happens in an IC engine.

On the open gears except those in the carriage where it is not practical to use grease, some people use chainsaw bar lubricant.  The rest of us use a grease that doesn't easily melt and sling off.  The grease that the factory recommended was graphite bearing and apparently had a rather high melting point but the company that made it was bought by the French company Total who very quickly discontinued the grease.  I have always used Lubriplate 105.  Although next time that I do a thorough cleanup I am going to try a high temperature grease that I found.


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## minsk (Sep 1, 2019)

thanx again sir...got it up and running perfectly ..had some southbend  way oil...

heres my junction box


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## wa5cab (Sep 1, 2019)

It certainly looks nice.  Have you leveled the bed?  Actually, it doesn't have to be level, but both ways must be in the same plane.  And the cheapest and easiest way to achieve that without great expense is with a level


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## minsk (Sep 1, 2019)

wa5cab said:


> It certainly looks nice.  Have you leveled the bed?  Actually, it doesn't have to be level, but both ways must be in the same plane.  And the cheapest and easiest way to achieve that without great expense is with a level


 first i have to put levelling feet on my mobile tool cart.    i have a starrett machinists level...time to learn how to do that now    thanx again


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## wa5cab (Sep 1, 2019)

OK.  The usual SOP is to level the bench or stand to the accuracy of a good carpenter's level.  And then level the bed with a precision level.


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## JPMacG (Sep 2, 2019)

My lathe is mounted to a similar bench.  It was wiggly-wobbly on the original casters.  I removed them  and installed steel C channel with hockey puck leveling feet.  That made the cabinet rock solid.  The lathe was then impossible to move, so I added deployable castors.   They are working out well.


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## minsk (Sep 2, 2019)

ahh i love that.
im going to leave the original wheels on...
i was thinking of just making kind of like a machinist jack for all 4 corners.
did you make the levelling feet with hockey pucks


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## JPMacG (Sep 2, 2019)

Yes.  I used 3/4"-10 bolts, the biggest diameter washers I could find and two nuts.  One nut is tack welded to the C channel   The other is a jam nut to lock it down.  I tuned the hex head of the bolt down to a smaller, thinner diameter and drilled the hockey pucks for a 3/4" through hole with a couterbore for the bolt head.


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## minsk (Sep 3, 2019)

JPMacG said:


> Yes.  I used 3/4"-10 bolts, the biggest diameter washers I could find and two nuts.  One nut is tack welded to the C channel   The other is a jam nut to lock it down.  I tuned the hex head of the bolt down to a smaller, thinner diameter and drilled the hockey pucks for a 3/4" through hole with a couterbore for the bolt head.


i can see me tripping over those. i think ill make mine out of 2" tube...cut them flush than have the bolt go up in to the tube...usually only need like an inch to level off . thank you so much for sharing....love these husky boxes...they are on sale at home depot for 400 right now...going to get another one for my mini mill


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## JPMacG (Sep 3, 2019)

Actually, if I had it to do over I would have used a Harbor Freight "U.S. General" tool cabinet.  They are thicker gauge than the Husky, have nicer slides, and are just really nice for the price in my opinion.


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## minsk (Sep 3, 2019)

actually im not really sure on that.....i tihnk  a few years ago they were as good or better than husky...also i have not found a 24  deep one... well the hf in my neighborhood the dindt.


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## jemin (Sep 22, 2022)

minsk said:


> I just bought this seriously brand new Atals TH42 with no chuck.
> 400 beans.
> 
> need to find a chuck of it...and recommendations...thinking 3 and 4 jaw
> ...


Man, that is one beautiful looking machine!!! Nice!


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## wachuko (Sep 24, 2022)

@minsk Old thread… and you probably found the original chuck by now… I bought a brand new (new old stock) Atlas chuck from these folks:  






						3 and 4 jaw chucks for bench lathes
					

6" Atlas original 4 jaw lathe chucks and Bison 5" 3 jaw chucks with 1 1/2 x 8 integral mounts



					www.hhrobertsmachinery.com
				




Price could not be beat…came in its original box and everything….


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## minsk (Oct 16, 2022)

very nice..i actually  sold that lathe and updgraded to a jet 1325BD


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