# BS-0 Dividing Heads?



## patmat2350 (Aug 12, 2017)

So it might be a bit big for use on my mini mill, but I'm interested in the 5" dividing head labeled "BS-0"... available from multiple sources for a range of reasonable prices, considering what's there. 







First, does "BS-0" mean something? 

Next, any pros/cons with this model?

Then, I see plenty on eBay from Asian importers, in the $300 range WITH 3-jaw chuck... example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BS-0-5-Inde...Chuck-Tailstock-CNC-Milling-New-/112262120558
while Grizzly has it for about $400 w/o chuck. So, do we know if the eBay units are one and the same?

Finally, how does that work on eBay? There seems to be a score of these Asian import sellers, all hawking everything from kitchen sinks to tee shirts and hair curlers to these dividing heads... and all have a smattering of negative reviews... which tells me I better be happy with what I get, 'cause there ain't likely to be no customer service!


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## patmat2350 (Aug 12, 2017)

Oops, just saw some other threads on the "BS-0"... I'll read through those...


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## markba633csi (Aug 12, 2017)

Most of those ebay sellers don't know much about what they are selling.  Pick one that has the highest possible feedback rating- better than 99 % if possible.
Your credit card company will usually help you out if there is a serious problem. 
I believe the BS refers to Brown and Sharpe but I could be wrong.  So it's a copy of a Brown and Sharpe design,  I think.
Mark S.


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## benmychree (Aug 12, 2017)

BS0 means that the basic design was copied form a Brown & Sharpe #0 dividing head; they, of course made other (larger) sizes to match up with the larger sizes of milling machines, for instance a #2 head would be used on a #2 size milling machine.


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## patmat2350 (Aug 12, 2017)

Thanks all.

Looking through the other threads, I don't see much info on these import copies of the B&S #0... so if you do have any experience, I'd love to hear! I don't want to repeat my own experience with the last low-buck rotary table I bought, ugh...

And looking at the ebay ads, it seems that a fair number have been sold... so they must be out there in the wild now.


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## Technical Ted (Aug 12, 2017)

I bought one of these BS-0 units from an eBay seller a while back. As far as the unit goes, it all depends on what you plan on using it for. It works OK for my use. Chucked items run out a few thousandths (which is not uncommon for a 3 jaw chuck), but it functions as designed. I got a center and dog with mine too for setting up between centers. They are hard to beat for the price. I was holding out for a long time waiting to see if I could find a used, more quality unit, in my area for a reasonable price, but it didn't happen, so I bought one of these. Not sorry I did. I got two additional division plates with mine as well, so I can get as many divisions that I'll ever need. I usually just use the pin stop for my uses... There is a hole for every 10 degrees and it's quick and easy to cut a square, hex, or whatever that is in 10 degree increments. I wouldn't hesitate cutting a gear on mine. The design is very basic and not too much that can go wrong.

As far as buying from eBay, you have both eBay and PayPal to protect you if you run into trouble. I would always suggest trying to work things out with the seller first in case of a problem... Most will try to work things out. But if not, you can contact eBay first, then PayPal for assistance to remedy your situation. I only had to go through this process one time and I got my money back. 

Ted


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## wawoodman (Aug 12, 2017)

The ebay unit is probably fine warranty-wise, IF it arrives DOA or goes south in a month or two. But if it waits for 18 months, I'm not sure. Grizzly on the other hand, will still be there.

Just something to think about...


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## Glenn Brooks (Aug 12, 2017)

I went through the same drill looking for a DH last year. I didn't really explore the import no-name brands as I didn't want to gamble with accuracy and quality of build.  I did really want a nice, old school, original, B&S or one of the other superb, old school brands to go with my Van Norman horizontal mill. Finally after a year of looking, I went up to Grizzly in Bellingham and bought a new B &S -o clone.  Glad I did. 

First, they will take it back if it isnt accurate. No questions.  Secondly, it's exactly like the old 75 YO used units, except it's brand new. Third,  and most Importantly, I never saw a used DH that had all the parts with it on eBay. Most are missing a tailstock AND one or more, or all three plates. What good is a DH without the dividing plates to set up degrees of arc?? Without these things It's nothing more than  a nice looking paper weight.  These tool resellers must strip the plates off and sell separately to double their revenue. Same with the tailstock.  

So my Grizzly purchase came with all the components.  it's as good as I will ever need. And the price was less than sourcing all the extra components the tool resellers won't sell you in a package.

Glenn


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## Silverbullet (Aug 12, 2017)

I searched for about three years to find one I could afford but its not a b.s. but it's smaller Gulledge with three jaw 4" Chuck. Admittedly I paid a$100 for it with a reversible plate , found a tailstock for another $35.00 . Ill need to make a drive center and block to use it that way. I'd still like a bigger model if it fell in my lap but ill be able to cut the gears I need with mine. If you keep plugging you'll find what you want. My reasons I wait is I have to if I  could afford to buy new I would. I'm not cheap just poor. There's a difference I guess.


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## markba633csi (Aug 13, 2017)

Don't feel bad, I'm cheap AND poor!


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## patmat2350 (Aug 16, 2017)

OK, I picked up a BS-0  (5" dividing head)... oy, that's heavy. After taking an aspirin for my back, I see on the box that they also offer a 4" version... BS-00? They don't say. But I wish I could have found that, would be better on my X2 mini mill.

Mine comes with a 3-jaw chuck, which is not shown in the instruction booklet. Also not shown is how to remove the chuck... anyone with experience have a clue????
See the pic... it's attached with M8 Allens, which can't be accessed through the plain index plate. And they're smooth and hard, can't get a grip with pliers. It's like some sort of 3D jigsaw puzzle...




And the back-plate appears to thread onto a central spud, but I don't see a way to break it loose without pounding on things that shouldn't be pounded on.


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## Superburban (Aug 16, 2017)

Mine has the back plate that screws on to the stub, like you mention. I just tap it with a small to medium ball peen hammer, to get it started, then it comes right off.


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## patmat2350 (Aug 16, 2017)

Bigger hammer, that did it, thx!
I'm hoping that by setting the output clamp before whacking, I somewhat protect the worm gear from taking the blow.


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## 4GSR (Aug 16, 2017)

Rather than beat on the chuck jaw with any hammer, use a adjustable crescent wrench.  Grab the jaw with the wrench and give it a pull.  May have to bolt the dividing head down to the mill table and like you said set the index plunger on top to hold it.  And hopefully not shear off the plunger!


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## Superburban (Aug 16, 2017)

4gsr said:


> Rather than beat on the chuck jaw with any hammer, use a adjustable crescent wrench.  Grab the jaw with the wrench and give it a pull.  May have to bolt the dividing head down to the mill table and like you said set the index plunger on top to hold it.  And hopefully not shear off the plunger!



Thats always a good debate. Whats better, a small impact, or large steady pull? I can remove an alternator nut, real easy with the air impact. Try to do the same with a ratchet, it takes clamping the pulley in the vise, a breaker bar, and some good elbow grease.  Now this case with the heavy chuck mounted on a lighter weight rotating assembly, inside the dividing head, maybe I'm wrong.


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## Pat Matthews (Aug 17, 2017)

The Taiwanese BS-0 appears to be a nice enough machine, but I do wish they'd put a little more effort into the documentation. One nice undocumented feature: the retractable pin on the dividing crank has a detent... pull it out and twist, and the spring loaded pin stays open, allowing easier cranking. I had no clue, but stumbled on it... sweet.
As delivered, the worm gear has about 1/4° total play against the worm... not sure there's anything to be done about that. So as with any lead screw device, it's important to always run one way against the lash, not overshoot the index hole, and then clamp the output before machining.

With the chuck removed, you can access the B&S #7 taper. I have ER32 collets, so I'll need to get an ER32/B&S7 collet holder... rare, but I do see one on eBay.

No T-slot keys included, so I'll need to make those.

The available 90° head motion is free-running, no gear or jackscrew on it... so dialing it in level will require setting a light drag on the clamp and tap-tap-tapping it around.

Any favorite methods for dialing in the tailstock, to align with the head?


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## patmat2350 (Aug 22, 2017)

Received my B&S#7 taper ER32 collet holder, stuck it in, and Nope! No go. Suspicious, I poke in a MT2 dead center, perfect.
@#!$
The instructions clearly say it's a B&S#7.


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## markba633csi (Aug 23, 2017)

Son of a sea cucumber! Houston we have a problem


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## Superburban (Aug 23, 2017)

patmat2350 said:


> Received my B&S#7 taper ER32 collet holder, stuck it in, and Nope! No go. Suspicious, I poke in a MT2 dead center, perfect.
> @#!$
> The instructions clearly say it's a B&S#7.


I guess that is the way my Enco dividing head is. I don't have a B&S 7, like the instructions say, but an MT #2 does seem to fit perfect. I thought it was just me, and since I did not have a B&S 7 to try, I could not see how it fit.


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## kf4zht (Aug 31, 2017)

I have been looking at these. Shopping them on ebay I found this brilliance on one of the listings. Apparently its a Metric MT2, which must be a english B&S7. I would bet the chinese engineer assigned to design these saw the BS7, decided since they had a MT2 reamer it was the same. Honestly I prefer that it is MT2, as I have tooling for that already, I don't have anything B&S


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## DouglasH (Jul 12, 2020)

I know this thread is 3 years old, but I found a YouTube video that goes into great detail about these: 




There are three parts, and the firsy 

PS: This is my first post, so go easy on me if I'm posting something I shouldn't . I  have no affiliation with the


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## tweinke (Jul 12, 2020)

Welcome aboard! Nice to see what the insides of one of those dividing heads looks like. I have wondered if they could be cleaned up and turned into a decent piece to have around. I think you will have a hard time getting in trouble here by the way, all in all a very friendly place.


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## DouglasH (Jul 12, 2020)

Edit:  I hit "Post" before I was finished writing...

I know this thread is 3 years old, but I found a YouTube video that goes into great detail about these:




There are three parts:
The first answered all my questions, including how to adjust out the backlash in the worm screw, and covers disassembly of the entire unit.  He also reveals that, while the unit seems very well made for the most part, there were a couple of minor problems; a mangled shaft key, and lots of loose grit all over the inside of the unit.  (These are consistent with my own experiences with several low cost import machine tools.  In my opinion, taking the time to fix them is well worth the savings.  I also enjoy the level of understanding gained from the experience, especially with complex units like this.)
!!! CAUTION!  The audio is pretty good 99% of the time - except when he uses a mallet or whacks something on the table:  Then the wooden table amplifies the sound of the impact so much that it nearly blew my eardrums out wearing earbuds!
The 2nd part is informative early on, but turns into a bit of a rabbit trail; mostly watching him mill down the mounting studs to fit his mill.

Part three mostly covers reassembly details.

I also found a downloadable manual for the Grizzly version of the unit. It's infinitely better than the horribly mangled - 'Chinglish' translation that came with mine.  I can't seem to post a direct link, but a search for "grizzly manual g1053_m.pdf" should find it.

PS: This is my first post, so go easy on me if I'm posting something I shouldn't. I have no affiliation with the YouTuber who published the videos, or with Grizzly; just thought these might be as useful to others as they were for me.

Happy machining,
Doug


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