# #4 Wire???



## Hutch (Jan 15, 2015)

I don't know where to hook up this wire. One has said it is a neutral. If so, where does it hook up too? 





A couple of other??



The light blue wire? Do I run the wire from the motor straight to the negative side of the plug? 
Line 1 and Line 4? Are these allocated as the positive and negative side of the motor. 

I do have my switch set up like the one above. 

Thanks in advance, guys.

Hutch


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## JimDawson (Jan 15, 2015)

I think the short answer is yes.  The light blue wire in the drawing is the neutral.  This wire is normally white from the plug in a standard US color code.  The terminal in the plug should be silver, the hot side is normally gold.

So, connect the neutral directly to terminal 4 on the motor.

The wires are normally called Hot (black), Neutral (white), and Ground (green)


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## Eddyde (Jan 15, 2015)

I agree with Jim, the light blue wire can can connect to the neutral, also the wider of the plugs blades.
I'm not sure of the F/R switch wiring though, can you cross-reference the wire numbers on the motors schematic to the colors you have drawn?


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## Hutch (Jan 15, 2015)

JimDawson said:


> I think the short answer is yes.  The light blue wire in the drawing is the neutral.  This wire is normally white from the plug in a standard US color code.  The terminal in the plug should be silver, the hot side is normally gold.
> 
> So, connect the neutral directly to terminal 4 on the motor.
> 
> The wires are normally called Hot (black), Neutral (white), and Ground (green)



Thank you. Much appreciated. Opened up wall socket last night. I did see the different color screws and the corresponding polarities. 



Eddyde said:


> I agree with Jim, the light blue wire can can connect to the neutral, also the wider of the plugs blades.
> I'm not sure of the F/R switch wiring though, can you cross-reference the wire numbers on the motors schematic to the colors you have drawn?



The drawing I got is right here from the forum, under the electrical section. I can't find the link. Figures. 
I do understand the light blue can be any color. 

Thank you again. As you can tell electricity is not my forte but I am learning thanks to you guys and this forum. 

Later on I'm going to re-wire the switch back to the original configuration. If you look at my SB lathe restoration 10K you'll see how it was wired and I did start to do that but had no idea which wire went where?
Maybe I can get help on that also. I did fire it up before I started tearing it down and it did work. Low and High. The pic is re-wired in the original configuration. 




Hutch


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## Hutch (Jan 16, 2015)

OK, some thing is not right. The motor sounds loud and when flipped to reverse it trips the breaker for the garage. I have searched but cannot find anything in as so much as step by step. 

If one of you gurus can take me step by step. I am not very good with this electrical thing but I know I can learn. 

Hutch


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## HSS (Jan 16, 2015)

Is the blue wire connected to 4 on the motor? If so, you cannot connect it to the switch. That is a short circuit and will trip the breaker. If the blue wire is connected to 4 on the motor then the other end of it can ONLY connect to the neutral of the power cord.

Patrick


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## Eddyde (Jan 16, 2015)

Hutch said:


> OK, some thing is not right. The motor sounds loud and when flipped to reverse it trips the breaker for the garage. I have searched but cannot find anything in as so much as step by step.
> 
> If one of you gurus can take me step by step. I am not very good with this electrical thing but I know I can learn.
> 
> Hutch


Yes as stated above, the neurral should go directly from the plug to terminal #4 and not be connected to the switch or other wires.
Do you have a wireing schematic for the switch? its sometimes on the inside of the cover? if you can take a picture and post of it I can help you out. Otherwise can you get the name and part number of the switch?


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## Hutch (Jan 17, 2015)

HSS said:


> Is the blue wire connected to 4 on the motor? If so, you cannot connect it to the switch. That is a short circuit and will trip the breaker. If the blue wire is connected to 4 on the motor then the other end of it can ONLY connect to the neutral of the power cord.
> 
> Patrick





Eddyde said:


> Yes as stated above, the neurral should go directly from the plug to terminal #4 and not be connected to the switch or other wires.
> Do you have a wireing schematic for the switch? its sometimes on the inside of the cover? if you can take a picture and post of it I can help you out. Otherwise can you get the name and part number of the switch?



Thank you again guys. I think I understand. There is a schematic inside the cover. By chance my brothers good friend is an electrician. He stopped by last night and said he would wire everything up. I will get a step by step tutelage. I appreciate everyone's help. I will also post with pics on the progress so it might also help others in the future. 

Gotta love this forum.


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## Hutch (Jan 21, 2015)

HSS said:


> Is the blue wire connected to 4 on the motor? If so, you cannot connect it to the switch. That is a short circuit and will trip the breaker. If the blue wire is connected to 4 on the motor then the other end of it can ONLY connect to the neutral of the power cord.
> 
> Patrick





Eddyde said:


> Yes as stated above, the neurral should go directly from the plug to terminal #4 and not be connected to the switch or other wires.
> Do you have a wireing schematic for the switch? its sometimes on the inside of the cover? if you can take a picture and post of it I can help you out. Otherwise can you get the name and part number of the switch?



Ok all. The electrician is not an industrial so he can't figure it out. My switch is a three phase but I do have a single phase on order. Will that make a difference?
Like I said it ran fine when I first plugged it in with the old motor and simple 110 outlet. The original was high/low configuration.
Looking at my current motor....would it work for a high/low or even reverse configuration?
When I receive the drum switch, I'll post some pics and maybe we can make some progress. 

Thank you,

Hutch


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## DoogieB (Jan 21, 2015)

The wiring schematic in your first post was from my thread here:

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...n-a-120V-split-phase-motor-with-a-drum-switch

It's not going to do you a whole lot of good because these motors are different, but the description in my last post might help because it describes what's going on between the switch and the motor.

Ok, you have me confused. :thinking:

What do you mean by high/low?  My motor has one speed with forward and reverse.  I assume the high/low on your motor is 120V/220V.  What is the manufacturer/part number of the motor?

The switch doesn't care how many phases you are using, it's just a 3PDT switch with some jumpers to switch the starter leads around.  The main thing is that if you are using 220V, you can't use the stock switch to safely reverse the motor because it doesn't have enough poles, assuming you have a C-H switch like mine.  Anyway, for a normal 120V installation your old switch should work fine.

Also, you might want to just get the lathe running in one direction and worry about reverse later?  That should be easy to accomplish, basically like wiring a light switch.  As long as you have the other wires already run in the conduit, you can come back for reverse later without any difficulty.  I ran my lathe for months before I felt I needed to get reverse working.

I have to ask, why did you pitch the working motor that came with the lathe? :whistle:


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## HSS (Jan 21, 2015)

The switch you have now is a single phase switch wired for reversing not a three phase switch. Did you connect the blue wire to the switch anywhere? Your motor is a dual voltage motor either 120 volts or 230 volts. It isn't a two speed motor. The high and low refer to the voltage used to power the motor, not the speeds.


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## Hutch (Jan 21, 2015)

DoogieB said:


> The wiring schematic in your first post was from my thread here:
> 
> http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...n-a-120V-split-phase-motor-with-a-drum-switch
> 
> ...



Old motor smelling a little burnt and because I'm an idiot. 
Motor: Baldor Motor L1307M, .75HP, 1725RPM, 1PH, 60HZ, 56, 3428L, OPEN, F1
http://www.globalindustrial.com/site/images/universal/baldor/specs/L1307M.pdf  Page 8 is the wiring schematic. Would you mind taking a look at it?




HSS said:


> The switch you have now is a single phase switch wired for reversing not a three phase switch. Did you connect the blue wire to the switch anywhere? Your motor is a dual voltage motor either 120 volts or 230 volts. It isn't a two speed motor. The high and low refer to the voltage used to power the motor, not the speeds.



The high/low I'm referring to is on the drum switch cover plate. Stating "Low Range" "High Range".


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## DoogieB (Jan 22, 2015)

I'm not sure what drum switch you have.  On mine, when the knob is pointed down it's open (off).  It's marked: Knob to the headstock = forward and knob to the tailstock = reverse.  Maybe you want to wait until you get your new drum switch until you tackle the FWD/REV feature.  At least the markings on the new switch should be correct.

The motor schematic helps a lot.  Your electrician buddy should be able to take it from here, but here's my 2 cents.

You should be able to use your existing switch as a simple on/off.  Use a meter and find two electrically separate poles in the switch (you might have to remove an added jumper), that way you can interrupt both the neutral and hot from the plug.

I'm assuming that you are wiring the motor for 120V.

The neutral (white) wire from the plug should go into the switch and then to Terminal 4 (Yellow) of the motor.  The hot (black) wire from the plug should go into the switch and then to Terminals 1, 3, 8 (Blue, Orange, Red).  Yes, all these wires should be connected together.  Then you need to connect together 2, J, 5 (White, Brown, Black).

If all is well, when you plug it in and hit the switch to motor will run correctly.  If the breaker pops or the motor smokes, then all is not well.  If the motor is running backwards, simply swap the red and black wires.

Just for the record, your motor is completely different from mine (but more typical) with the dual voltage feature and all the wires.  Hopefully someone from the silent majority can verify that the above sounds correct.


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## Hutch (Jan 23, 2015)

Thanks. I took your advice and just have it running only in one direction for now. It's quiet and smooth. The #4 wire is going straight from the motor to plug connected to the neutral. By-passing the switch.
I'll tackle the reverse later when I get the new switch. My main thing right now is running in the spindle bearings.


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## DoogieB (Jan 23, 2015)

Sounds good!  I'm sure you are dying to get that lathe making chips and reverse can always wait.


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## Hutch (Jan 24, 2015)

OK. I got the new switch. As you can see my motor is pretty modern I guess. Do I really need to hook up all the leads?
Here is my new switch...Where would the hot line from the plug go along with everything else. :whiteflag:


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## compsurge (Jan 24, 2015)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/7130897@N03/4970697199/sizes/o/

I used this to get my 10L running with 110V in both directions. I don't see anything to suggest Baldor did not follow the numbering convention in this diagram. Switching 5 and 8 will reverse the direction of travel. Hope this helps. It looks like you were pretty close.

Your original sketch will leave the motor hot. The Wall power should go to the center of the switch, where it will not be in contact with any of the motor circuits while in the off position.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/need-help-reversing-switch-210013/ had some good info in it.


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## Hutch (Jan 24, 2015)

^^^ Thanks but there are no lines in the middle just on the sides.


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## compsurge (Jan 24, 2015)

The previous owner of my lathe ran 220V, but couldn't figure out how to run it in reverse.

Using the original switch, wire as per the linked diagram. For a 110V setup, the "Motor 1" will contain wires 1,3,8 if the motor spins clockwise for forward or 1,3,5 if it spins CCW. I forget which it was on the 10L, but I think it might have been CCW. Hot and Neutral Line In are the wall power.

In the linked diagram, your #4 wire is on "Motor 2", so it can go to any of the two lower positions, with a jumper to the other.

I hope that helps. I struggled with wiring mine and eventually learned how motors run in the process. I will say mine works 100% with the diagram I linked.


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## JimDawson (Jan 24, 2015)

The ''T'' Leads are from the motor, the ''L'' leads are from the wall.  L1 is hot, L2 is neutral in a 120 volt circuit.

Use the connection diagram labeled Capacitor Start for wiring.


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## Hutch (Jan 24, 2015)

JimDawson said:


> The ''T'' Leads are from the motor, the ''L'' leads are from the wall.  L1 is hot, L2 is neutral in a 120 volt circuit.
> 
> Use the connection diagram labeled Capacitor Start for wiring.




Got it, thanks. One more question....Is that a jumper on 3-5 posts?

I'll start on this tomorrow.


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## JimDawson (Jan 25, 2015)

Hutch said:


> Got it, thanks. One more question....Is that a jumper on 3-5 posts?
> 
> I'll start on this tomorrow.



Yes, that's what it looks like to me.


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## Hutch (Jan 26, 2015)

Well, it works but still no reverse.


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