# Decent brands of measuring tools for beginners?



## pgmrdan (May 20, 2019)

Buying new Starrett or new Mitutoyo items are so expensive.  If I buy used I'm wondering if having them services is also cost prohibitive. ???

Can you recommend some brands for micrometers, test indicators, calipers, etc. that are plenty good enough for hobbyists?


----------



## ThinWoodsman (May 20, 2019)

Accusize.
The dial indicators I get from Shars seem to work well enough.


----------



## RobertHaas (May 20, 2019)

how accurate are you?

instruments reflect the users precision. If you are not concerned with working to 4 digits, save your money. Most stuff outside of harbor freight will get you to 3 digits repeatedly.


----------



## pgmrdan (May 20, 2019)

Thanks guys!


----------



## mattthemuppet2 (May 20, 2019)

I like my iGaging digital calipers - they measure to within 0.01mm according to my gage blocks (and my ability and the calipers resolution!) and they agree with my calibrated Mit micrometers. Had them 6 or so years, use a CR2032 battery a year give or take. One of the best Christmas presents I've ever gotten from my family.

For micrometers, buy secondhand with standards, clean and calibrate then you're good to go. To be honest the import mics I have repeat just as well as the fancy ones. I can't tell any difference.

For DTIs and dial indicators, I'd personally save up for new quality units or buy known good used ones from someone you trust. I've fought with stick dial indicators and DTIs and it's a complete pain. If you're trying to indicate in a part or a vise, the last thing you want is a tool that doesn't reliably repeat or has hysterisis in its movement.


----------



## ThinWoodsman (May 20, 2019)

mattthemuppet2 said:


> I've fought with stick dial indicators and DTIs and it's a complete pain. If you're trying to indicate in a part or a vise, the last thing you want is a tool that doesn't reliably repeat or has hysterisis in its movement.



They repeat fine, but I agree that it is a lot more work as they are quite jumpy when setting things up. Given the huge price jump between 'serviceable' and 'excellent' dial indicators, I've stuck with good enough. Maybe once I go a year without breaking one, I'll buy something decent


----------



## benmychree (May 20, 2019)

Personally, I bought new, mostly from Starrett, starting with a 0-1 mike that I bought while in high school in 1962, I am still using it nearly every day.   If I were starting out now, with a view to hobby use, I'd go with E bay used tools, of any good American brand; micrometers are particularly cheap.  Lately I bought a B&S dial indicator, in box for only $30.  All the personal tools that I have bought over the last 50 years are still in use and are capable of doing any measuring job that I need to perform, with accuracy.  Nearly all of my tools are either Starrett or Brown & Sharpe.


----------



## Splat (May 20, 2019)

After buying used mics they're one thing I will buy new now. Buy as best you can and cry hopefully once. +1 on the Accusize brand for good modest gear. Shars sells good modestly priced items, too.


----------



## T Bredehoft (May 20, 2019)

For getting started, I've found the  Pittsburgh brand of digital calipers from Harbor Freight, $10.00 with coupon  cannot be beat. They are accurate to.001, the batters last at least a year, and the batteries  are buyable on line for cheap. When you get to where you need .0001 accuracy you can buy Starrett then.


----------



## martik777 (May 20, 2019)

Avoid the cheap (~ $10) digital calipers, nothing but frustration. I highly recommend the igaging ez-view:

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/my-alternative-to-mitutoyo-calipers.77953/


----------



## darkzero (May 20, 2019)

Don't have to buy new. I'd rather buy used Mitutoyo or Starrett before new import. Doesn't have to be Mitu or Starrett either. Many of my measuring tools are just that, purchased used in great to new condition for excellent prices. Just have to be patient to find the deals.

Quality tools will last a long time, many imports can't be serviced at all. I've only had to have one of my measuting tools serviced, one of Mitu calipers but only cause my dumb arse dropped them & bent the tips. Sent it to Mitu, they fixed them & were as good as new when I got them back.


----------



## markba633csi (May 20, 2019)

Buy used.  Great deals to be had out there for older US, Japanese and Swiss made stuff
Mark


----------



## Ulma Doctor (May 20, 2019)

you won't ever go wrong with Japanese made- Mitutoyo  (new or used- micrometers or indicators) 
i love my antique JT Slocumb mics (.001" resolution micrometers)
I love my old Lufkin's too (.0001" and .001" resolution micrometers)
Tesa is another of my favorites (.0001" dial test indicator)
(old) Fowler is very reliable ( micrometers, dial indicators, dial test indicators)
Starrett is great stuff
Brown & Sharpe is excellent equipment
Federal is good equipment
Mahr is excellent equipment
Ames is well made equipment

if i can think of other stuff i have used, i'll add to the list
but any of the names above is good to go


----------



## darkzero (May 20, 2019)

Scherr-Tumico is another (aka Tubular Mic Co before that).

Older SPI is not bad. Fowler used to be good (IMO). Fowler these days is just a reseller, many of their current products are just rebranded import stuff. Same with current SPI. Many of the current products labeled SPI are the same products labeled by Fowler.


----------



## samthedog (May 20, 2019)

I personally use Mitutoyo, Tesa, Mahr and Mauser measuring tools. Mahr, Tesa and Mauser may be a bit difficult for people in the New World to get a hold of but if you can find them, they are fantastic quality.


----------



## Bi11Hudson (May 20, 2019)

This is one of those fuzzy questions that are difficult to answer. Every person is different, especially the grade of work that they  engage in. Or more specifically, the grade of standards. I can tell you what I use, but it may or may not be the right tool for what you do. Basically, I base every thing on price. Then use the highest tolerance tool applicable to what I am working on.

As a rule, building 1:87 models, I work within half a 64th inch, *give or take*. Usually, a *vernier* scale caliper is sufficient. As I age, especially the eyes, I become more dependent on *dial* calipers. If I have a project requiring tighter tolerances, I will use a *B&S micrometer*. There is a micrometer here that measures in 10ths, but I have only used it a few times over the 30 or so years I've had it. I bought it when times were flush and it was pretty, not because I needed it.

A dial caliper can be found on eBay, from $12 to near $100. Plus shipping, of course. I regularly purchase the low end calipers to give to friends, mechanics and the like. People to whom a 1/32 inch is problematic. That's 0.03125 inch... ... In those cases, accuracy is not that important. And a call you must make for yourself.

When doing cabinet work, for myself of course, a 1/32 error can be filled with paint. The norm is 1/64 of an inch. But that is unacceptable to one working on machinery, a full 0.015 plus a little. It all comes down to a couple of points, the primary one being just how tight you want to get the tolerances, The other being the brand of tool, Harbor Fright being near the low end of the scale, suitable for mechanics and framing carpenters.

My "advice" is like a butt hole, everyone has one and most of them smell pretty bad. I admire the "purist" that buys the best he can swing and only cries once. But I buy high end equipment only when I need it. Just never let it go, and doing so since the 70s, have quite a stock of good stuff that I don't use very often. But have it when I need it. My 10 cents worth, used to be 02 cents but inflation, ya know.

Bill Hudson​


----------



## Moderatemixed (May 20, 2019)

If you are careful and patient you can (and will) find Starrett tools on Craigs List, Kijiji and ebay for less that half the price of new. I have been “tooling up” for 4 years, and am now at a point where I am satisfied that I have all the bases covered. I am exclusively Starrett and will say with 100% certainty that buying Starrett has equipped me with tools that have stood the test of time and are still going strong. If you buy cheap, you’ll buy twice..... or more. In the end when you buy the Starrett (or Mitutoyo) that you should have purchased in the first place, you see that you have spent at least 30% more than you had to, and you’ll have “made do” to that point. 

Good luck...... 

Cheers. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Shootymacshootface (May 20, 2019)

Shars entry level measuring tools are, I would say equivalent to or better than the harbor freight tools. They also have tools for the serious hobbyist and professionals. My favorite calipers are a Shars carbide jawed digital caliper that costed about $80.


----------



## matthewsx (May 20, 2019)

martik777 said:


> Avoid the cheap (~ $10) digital calipers, nothing but frustration. I highly recommend the igaging ez-view:
> 
> https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/my-alternative-to-mitutoyo-calipers.77953/



I recently bought an iGaging caliper and it seems to work well for my needs. I also bought a used Mitutyo height gauge from eBay for $120 that seems pretty nice even though the seller had no clue how to package a precision instrument.

However, I built many championship winning kart engines with my Harbor Freight calipers. 

It all comes down to what you're making and how tight the tolerances need to be. There are a wide range of "hobby" machinists on this site, from retired toolmakers, to folks who are literally just beginning. Also, some people are able to spend tens of thousands on their hobbies while others really need those Harbor Freight coupons. Only you can decide where you're at. But, the iGaging caliper is $40 and many on here have found it suitable for their needs. Sure I'd love to have all high class tools but I'd rather be making chips now with what I've got.     

Cheers,

John


----------



## Nogoingback (May 21, 2019)

There are lots of barely used quality tools available at reasonable prices.   EBay has lots of Mitutoyo tools to choose from,
which offer good value for money.  I also see quite a few micrometers on Craigslist locally in good condition.


----------



## markba633csi (May 21, 2019)

+ what Ulma said; I like Lufkin too
I picked a nice old mike up on Ebay for around 12$ and he threw in a Starrett #40 thread pitch gage, both with original boxes


----------



## Illinoyance (May 21, 2019)

I have Starrett, Lufkin, Brown & Sharpe, Tumico, and Mitutoyo instruments.  They usually stay on the shelf except for critical work.  I routinely use Harbor Freight digital calipers.  Yes, they eat batteries.  Yes they crap out in a couple years.  It is better to use up the cheapies than to risk wear or damage to my good tools when their accuracy is not required.


----------



## richl (May 21, 2019)

Here is my contribution
I have bought many different tools from the very low end harbor freight
, Fowler, igaging, mitutoya, shars, b and s and reconditioned tools. For me I had the best luck with mitutoya and igaging absolutes. Fowler's were no better than harbor freight. The reconditioned I purchased were good, not great. I have gotten a couple used height gauges off ebay for good prices (b and s).

The igaging are not too expensive, far more pricey than Hf but I figure they will last a while of my light use.
I bought 2 mitutoya dtis, I really like them, I have a couple igaging abosolutes mics 0-1 and 1-2, a mitutoya 12" caliper and an igaging absolute 12" caliper and several 0-1" dial indicators from fowler, mitutoya, igaging.
Ymmv, everyone will have their own criteria of what is good.


----------



## BGHansen (May 21, 2019)

I have at least 4 sets of digital mikes from 0-3, tumbler style.  Bought them all off eBay for anywhere from $30 - $100 (really good deal on a 0-3" set of Mitutoyo's).  Have used Mitutoyo and some import dial calipers in 4", 6", 8" and 12" sizes.  Mostly used off eBay.  

Ditto the experiences above with $10 digital calipers, battery-sucking "you get what you pay for" tools.  I've got an iGaging 4" and a couple of Clockwise tools 6" which work well.  The iGaging "remembers" zero; turn off the power, move the jaws, turn it back on and it knows the move.  The Clockwise ones ($21 for a 6") do not.

Bruce


----------



## Bob Korves (May 21, 2019)

BGHansen said:


> Ditto the experiences above with $10 digital calipers, battery-sucking "you get what you pay for" tools


I bought two Harbor Freight P/N 47257 6" electronic calipers more than five years ago.  They were right at $10 each on sale, and were additionally each bought with 25% off coupons, making them right around $8.00 out the door each, including taxes (and came with a couple HF freebies as a bonus.)  I have used one of them just about every day since then, and that one is still going strong, and is still way more than accurate enough for a quick and dirty measuring tool.  They are the single most used tools in my shop.  They both still have the original batteries in them, no sign of failure yet.  Decent batteries to fit them can be bought for well less than $.25 each, but I still have the unused spares that they came with.  I used only one of them until a few months ago, and then put the other new one on a new to me rolling tool cart.  It has only been used a few times, still working fine, still accurate, and is a bit tighter than the well use one.  Almost all of my work has been done using the first one.  I have not been highly careful with them, but have never dropped one.  I have used them for measuring rusty stock, as a scribe and hermaphrodite caliper for layout work, and for all kinds of quick and dirty work.  They do not get handled like calibration tools, they get the job done.  Still, I do not abuse them, for what they are.  They are amazingly tough, reliable, and accurate (about plus or minus .001" for sure.)  For fussy work I dig out my higher precision measuring tools, which are very carefully cared for and kept calibrated religiously.  Why wear them out on everyday home shop work?  The only thing they are missing is absolute measuring capability, holding the setting between sessions.  It is pretty easy to turn off and zero the calipers, and then start over, which also gives a chance to make sure the working surfaces are clean.  I have absolutely zero use for the very, very nice Mitutoyo 6" calipers, they don't do anything that mine won't do, and I don't have to worry about damaging them, at their cost.  I could throw one across my shop any time I want, but I don't want.


----------



## darkzero (May 21, 2019)

Wow Bob! You must have some HF unicorns/gems! 5 yrs & on the original batteries!!! Definitely keepers! I wasn't so lucky, I've had 3 HF digital calipers, two 6"rs & a 4". None of them would last more than 6 months on fresh batteries & I use silver oxide batteries, not alkaline. I gave both the 6"rs away but kept the 4". Everytime I go to use the 4" (used around the house, not in the shop), either the display is blinking (indicating low batt), weird fluctuating readings (also indicating low batt), or it's dead. My Mitutoyo's last years without having to change the batteries, even my 4" Mitutoyo & mill quill DRO scale that don't have auto shut off that I forget to turn off a lot.

Funny, Mr Pete/Tubal Cain has a video where he went to HF to buy digital calipers, told the cashier that he was going to the car to see if it worked. Sure enough it was dead but they gave him a new battery. I've had similar results. All the HF calipers I bought had blinking displays right out the box but at least they give you 2 batteries. But they did read perfectly fine with fresh batteries.

Every China digital caliper/scale I have used, home & work ate batteries like crazy. I've never used iGaging, Accusize, Insize, or Shars Aventador though. AvE has a video showing the current draw on most typical China digital calipers compared to Mitutoyos. The China ones, when turned "off" is not really off. They really just only turn off the display & still draw alot of current.

Even the older Starretts & really old Mitutoyos ate batteries. I took the manual machining courses at the local CC with my lil brother. They had only 2 digital calipers, both older USA Starretts. Randy the tool room guy would always keep the batteries out of them. When I asked him why he said cause he was tired of changing the batteries on them so often.


----------



## pontiac428 (May 21, 2019)

Yep, I've had it with battery-eating calipers.  Sure, SR44 batteries are cheap (Amazon for pennies each) but in spite of that, I really *hate* being forced to replace them when I really just need to get a quick measurement and stay in my flow of work.  So I went back to dials.  My current bench caliper is the Helios with a fine adjustment barrel.  Never needs batteries, measures to .001, and is solidly built unlike the HF noodles.  I have my great-uncle's Mitutoyo dial calipers at the mill.  HF calipers are reserved for the welding table these days.


----------



## RobertHaas (May 21, 2019)

I reach for my Mitutoyo dial  calipers more then my digital. I just like using it. 

Lately I have been using an old B&S Vernier caliper. It is just good practice to remember how to read it.


----------



## Bi11Hudson (May 22, 2019)

An afterthought if I may; There's been a number of good responses to the question here. I wish this site had been around when I was learning.(teaching myself) Of course, in my day, a computer usually took up a couple of rooms and had a pretty healthy power bill. I know, 'cause I worked on 'em. 

Oh! the afterthought, I almost forgot. What came to mind last night was that on eBay there are a number of sellers that don't know what they are selling. I saw a "Globemaster" vernier caliper selling for almost as much as a Mitutoyo. In the 70's, Globemaster tools were in a bin by the check out counter for $0.99. That in the days before plastic tools. And the shaper gauge that was called an "angle block". For $20 bux. A shaper gauge is usually $40 or better.

The name brands listed here are mostly of the good stuff variety. But I have a problem with any battery operated tool. Batteries always seem to quit at the most inconvenient times. Say, at 11:00 PM when a trip to the store is out of the question. Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get me. Absence of evidence in not evidence of absence.

Personally, I tend more toward Brown & Sharpes, with Mitutoyo running a close second. Starrett is good stuff, no question. But resellers charge as much for the name as for the tool. And then others sell the tool and want as much for their low end  tool as for a Starrett. And, lastly, I am concerned that with eBay fees so high, those fees are often calculated into the pricing. And if you're buying new, be aware that  Starrett has moved much of their production overseas.

All in all, take pricing with a grain of salt. Nay, a pound... ... Yes, I base my purchases on price. But I still appreciate good tools as worth the cost. I wouldn't ever buy a Globemaster, even if it was less than a dollar today. But by the same token, if what I want is only available in Starrett or B&S, I'd look long and hard at it, and the price, before committing to it.

Well, I've had my say (rant) and apologize for the amount of time it's taken up.
Bill Hudson​


----------



## ericc (May 22, 2019)

When I took the lathe class at Techshop, the teacher was a brash young fellow with a pair of calipers.  One of the lessons was a press fit (refrigerator magnet).  He told us there were all kinds of measuring tools and that the conventional wisdom was that calipers weren't good for accurate measurements.  He then told us that we would be lucky to hit a good press fit, no matter what fancy tools we had, if we did not understand the lathe.  He said that one of the biggest mistakes that beginners make is that they try to sneak up on the measurement, especially with a poorly ground tool that cuts mostly on the periphery, and end up sneaking right over it.  He illustrated a method in which you divide the remainder by 3 and cut two test passes , then a final, to adjust for the spring.  This will get you closer than any fancy tool.  For some odd reason, I didn't learn this lesson from him.  Instead, I bought inside leg calipers, telescoping gauges, micrometers, all name brand, and proceeded to ruin a lot of metal sneaking right over the bore sizes.  Very frustrating, especially, since I could almost hear the teacher's nagging voice every time I went oversize.  Often, we stress tools over technique.  It's hard to see the big picture sometimes.


----------



## Nogoingback (May 22, 2019)

Bi11Hudson said:


> An afterthought if I may; There's been a number of good responses to the question here. I wish this site had been around when I was learning.(teaching myself) Of course, in my day, a computer usually took up a couple of rooms and had a pretty healthy power bill. I know, 'cause I worked on 'em.
> 
> Oh! the afterthought, I almost forgot. What came to mind last night was that on eBay there are a number of sellers that don't know what they are selling. I saw a "Globemaster" vernier caliper selling for almost as much as a Mitutoyo. In the 70's, Globemaster tools were in a bin by the check out counter for $0.99. That in the days before plastic tools. And the shaper gauge that was called an "angle block". For $20 bux. A shaper gauge is usually $40 or better.
> 
> ...




Bill, you're right, most eBay sellers push their prices, don't pay attention to what others are asking, and often end up not selling
stuff.  BUT, there are deals out there for the finding.  It just takes a little patience and paying attention to what's out there.  Last 
year I picked up a Swiss-made B&S 1" micrometer in new condition for $25 bucks!  That may be unusual, but it shows the deals
are there.  

For the OP, who's trying to tool up there may be some reluctance to buy off eBay.  Another possibility is buying from someone 
like this:    https://shop.idealprec.com/collections/demo-items/micrometers-demo-used?page=8
Prices are decent, and the tools have been checked over and adjusted before sale.  I've bought from them in the past and 
was happy with my purchase.


----------



## mattthemuppet2 (May 22, 2019)

For digital calipers I would suggest going for ones that use CR2032 batteries. They last an age. I use my iGaging ones almost daily and I replace the battery maybe once a year - to be honest it's long enough that I can't remember when I did the previous change 

I've bought all my mics off eBay, as well as some DI and a DTI (old Japanese Fowler 0.0005). I also bought a cheap but incomplete Mitutoyo metric gauge block set for $30 or so and used it to calibrate all my mics. I have Mits from 0-1 to 3-4, import 4-5 and 5-6 (not sure I've ever used them to be honest, they were part of a bundle), import 0-25mm to 75-100mm and a nice Japanese 0-25mm mic. All came to around $100 or so over a year or two. Can't tell any difference in accuracy or feel between the imports and the higher end Japanese mics. Not as happy with my used DIs, but they do the job. One day I'll save my pennies and get a nice Mit one, but I use them infrequently enough that it's way down my list.

Another thing that would be worth spending on would be a decent set of telescoping bore gauges. I use mine alot and the cheapy set has pretty poor "feel". I have some Staretts that I rescued from a guys workshed, but they needed enough loving that they're not much better.


----------

