# PM1236 gears



## ShawnR (Apr 8, 2021)

Hi all

I have purchased a PM1236 but I won't see it for another month or so.  I have had a small lathe for years, one that needed gears changed for any change in lead screw speed and I am/was really looking forward to no more gears when I ordered the lathe. I did realize that switching imperial to metric would involve a couple of gears but that will really be seldom, if ever. I would mostly do imperial. Now that the lathe arrival is nearer, I was perusing the manual a bit and see that gear changes are indeed required. Is it just switching the 24t and 48 tooth? Is that worth complaining about? Again, probably would not be posting if I had access to see the lathe but kind of wondering if this is going to be a pain. Two common sizes for me are 1/4" x 20 and 1/2" x 13.  It looks like one set does coarse and the other does fine (ish)? What is the gear swapping procedure like to do? My current lathe required all 4 gears be changed, and each fastening point had to be altered with a different diameter so it was a PITA. Some pitches were accomodated with one gear change but it was usually the one behind others so, yea,....

I am sure the PM1236 will be way better than that! But I was surprised I would be switching anything unless I changed units. Anyone have input for me?

Thanks
Cheers,
Shawn


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## fursphere (Apr 8, 2021)

I have a PM1236 on order as well.   I think there are minor gear changes needed.  If it really starts driving you crazy you could do an electronic lead screw upgrade (ELS).   

I think to completely get away from gear changes you have to get into the really big (and expensive) lathes.


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## T Bredehoft (Apr 8, 2021)

My first lathe was an  Atlas 6", (dunno the real name) Gear switching was a bore.  I made two or three banjos out of 1/8th CRS, found some gears online and changed from one (standard)  set up to another in minutes.  I now have a PM1030, same gear change problem. I've made three banjos, have two set up plus the original, need a couple of more gears for the last banjo. Yes, I made pivot pins and T-nuts, too. complete with ball oilers. 
What's the point in having a shop if you can't/don't make things.?


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## Aukai (Apr 8, 2021)

If you don't have the Norton gear box, I had to change gears with my 1228 to cut 1/2-13, and 5/8-11, not sure if the 1236 is the same.


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## pacifica (Apr 8, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> Hi all
> 
> I have purchased a PM1236 but I won't see it for another month or so.  I have had a small lathe for years, one that needed gears changed for any change in lead screw speed and I am/was really looking forward to no more gears when I ordered the lathe. I did realize that switching imperial to metric would involve a couple of gears but that will really be seldom, if ever. I would mostly do imperial. Now that the lathe arrival is nearer, I was perusing the manual a bit and see that gear changes are indeed required. Is it just switching the 24t and 48 tooth? Is that worth complaining about? Again, probably would not be posting if I had access to see the lathe but kind of wondering if this is going to be a pain. Two common sizes for me are 1/4" x 20 and 1/2" x 13.  It looks like one set does coarse and the other does fine (ish)? What is the gear swapping procedure like to do? My current lathe required all 4 gears be changed, and each fastening point had to be altered with a different diameter so it was a PITA. Some pitches were accomodated with one gear change but it was usually the one behind others so, yea,....
> 
> ...


It's very easy to do: remove the cap screw on the 48  tooth gear-remove gear, put a spacer behind it so it meshes with the 120 tooth gear.There is a banjo so you can easily line up the gears to mesh properly. Might take  5 minutes. The metric threads cut are precise.
With metric taps and readily available metric bolts it's not something you will do too often.


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## ShawnR (Apr 8, 2021)

fursphere said:


> I have a PM1236 on order as well.   I think there are minor gear changes needed.  If it really starts driving you crazy you could do an electronic lead screw upgrade (ELS).
> 
> I think to completely get away from gear changes you have to get into the really big (and expensive) lathes.


Did you get the email that our lathes are in the warehouse so depending on when you placed your order, your lathe will be shipped. I was only a couple weeks ago so I am almost last.


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## fursphere (Apr 8, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> Did you get the email that our lathes are in the warehouse so depending on when you placed your order, your lathe will be shipped. I was only a couple weeks ago so I am almost last.


Yup.  They said a week or two for inspection, then they'll start shipping them out.   I actually asked them to hold mine a little longer, as I'm right in the middle of purchasing a new home - and I want to close that so I can have it shipped straight there.  I'm not planning on having mine until early May.


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## ShawnR (Apr 8, 2021)

pacifica said:


> It's very easy to do: remove the cap screw on the 48  tooth gear-remove gear, put a spacer behind it so it meshes with the 120 tooth gear.There is a banjo so you can easily line up the gears to mesh properly. Might take  5 minutes. The metric threads cut are precise.
> With metric taps and readily available metric bolts it's not something you will do too often.



mmmm.....I know I can be impatient. Guess I did not expect any gear changes but I am sure the quality of the rest of the machine will more than make up for it. The only conflict ie cause to change gears is the common 1/2-13 I use so maybe I will start doing fine threads, if I am going to be that lazy...

Thanks for the input.


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## benmychree (Apr 8, 2021)

That situation can be frustrating --- a guy I worked for for a couple of years, had a lathe made in India, Mysore Kirloskar; I was having to do the change gear thing for coarse/fine threads, there was an 8:1 ratio between the two gear ranges; my cure was to gear it half way in between the two ranges and figure from one range and divide by two what was indicated; worked for me, but he never really caught on ---


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## pacifica (Apr 9, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> mmmm.....I know I can be impatient. Guess I did not expect any gear changes but I am sure the quality of the rest of the machine will more than make up for it. The only conflict ie cause to change gears is the common 1/2-13 I use so maybe I will start doing fine threads, if I am going to be that lazy...
> 
> Thanks for the input.


You can get a die head for threads or get the 1236T, both costing more.


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## ShawnR (Apr 9, 2021)

pacifica said:


> You can get a die head for threads or get the 1236T, both costing more.



What do you mean die head? Tailstock die holder? or something else? 

Precision Matthews uploaded a new manual this week showing the cast iron stand ...pages 38-39. They still have the coolant pump in the back of the right stanchion. I was sorry to hear this. Why put something that will require replacing or at least maintenance behind a part that weighs 1200 pounds plus and requires levelling and set up once moved? I will find another location for mine as it is going against a wall and I ain't moving it after that. 

I was going to attach the file but it is kinda large for uploading so here is the link, if I did it correctly......



			https://www.precisionmatthews.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/PM-1236-v8-2021-3.pdf


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## pacifica (Apr 11, 2021)

Here's an example of a die head-they can easily cut class 3 threads(or class 4) in one pass, depth is limited to about 2-3 inches.https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRW-Geometric-DS-N-3-4-Die-Head-Thread-Chaser-1-Shank-with-19-Chasers-e-pb4/324387517671?hash=item4b8700b4e7:g:JFAAAOSwIqlfvJdS


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## ShawnR (Apr 11, 2021)

pacifica said:


> Here's an example of a die head-they can easily cut class 3 threads(or class 4) in one pass, depth is limited to about 2-3 inches.https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRW-Geometric-DS-N-3-4-Die-Head-Thread-Chaser-1-Shank-with-19-Chasers-e-pb4/324387517671?hash=item4b8700b4e7:g:JFAAAOSwIqlfvJdS



Thank you Pacifica. I have not heard or seen those before nor heard of them.


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## av8ter (Apr 16, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> What do you mean die head? Tailstock die holder? or something else?
> 
> Precision Matthews uploaded a new manual this week showing the cast iron stand ...pages 38-39. They still have the coolant pump in the back of the right stanchion. I was sorry to hear this. Why put something that will require replacing or at least maintenance behind a part that weighs 1200 pounds plus and requires levelling and set up once moved? I will find another location for mine as it is going against a wall and I ain't moving it after that.
> 
> ...


If you are talking about the pump in the cast stand it goes in from the front. I got mine about 6 month ago and it has three drawers on the left and a door on the right that the pump goes in. I just set my pump system off in a box as I don't intend on using flood coolant on a lathe. Too messy.


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## ShawnR (Apr 19, 2021)

av8ter said:


> If you are talking about the pump in the cast stand it goes in from the front. I got mine about 6 month ago and it has three drawers on the left and a door on the right that the pump goes in. I just set my pump system off in a box as I don't intend on using flood coolant on a lathe. Too messy.


Thanks av8ter


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## ShawnR (Apr 29, 2021)

fursphere said:


> Yup.  They said a week or two for inspection, then they'll start shipping them out.   I actually asked them to hold mine a little longer, as I'm right in the middle of purchasing a new home - and I want to close that so I can have it shipped straight there.  I'm not planning on having mine until early May.


Hey fursphere: I guess you still have not received your lathe due to your move? I got mine yesterday. It was on the USA side of the border for a week so was shipped very quickly. I just needed to coordinate with my broker/importer to bring it into Canada.
I started unpacking yesterday and assembling today. A bit of head scratching. PM did up load a new manual recently but I still am confused ....minor stuff.

I think the rod for the foot brake is too long. When the cabinets are positioned for the drip tray holes to align with the cabinets, the rod does not fit. It is pinned in place so no adjustment. I will need to cut off 1.5 inches. I was wondering if yours is the same. The lathe does require a fair amount of access room around it.  The back for electrical panel access and the tailstock end. I will be rearranging my shop. Not a complaint. Just a heads up.

Did you order the anti-vibration pads? I did not but do see the advantages in them for adjustments. I was hoping anyone who has used them can comment whether the vibration absorption is necessary on a concrete garage floor....


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## fursphere (Apr 29, 2021)

ShawnR said:


> Hey fursphere: I guess you still have not received your lathe due to your move? I got mine yesterday. It was on the USA side of the border for a week so was shipped very quickly. I just needed to coordinate with my broker/importer to bring it into Canada.
> I started unpacking yesterday and assembling today. A bit of head scratching. PM did up load a new manual recently but it still seems to be some misinformation...minor stuff.
> 
> I think the rod for the foot brake is too long. When the cabinets are positioned for the drip tray holes to align with the cabinets, the rod does not fit. It is pinned in place so no adjustment. I will need to cut off 1.5 inches. I was wondering if yours is the same. The lathe does require a fair amount of access room around it.  The back for electrical panel access and the tailstock end. I will be rearranging. Not a complaint. Just a heads up.
> ...


Hey there.

I just got mine delivered yesterday.  I've only opened the crate to inspect for damage - everything looks good so far.  Now I get to move it to the new house next week.  (get the keys tomorrow)

I got the cast iron stands with mine (man they're heavy - had to use the engine hoist to move them around), not sure if that will match what you've got.  But if you need me to dig something out of the crate and measure it I can.   Are you talking about the rod that goes in between the two cabinets (horizontal orientation) that the foot brake mounts too, or the one inside the left cabinet that connects to the head stock (vertical orientation)?

I did not get the anti-vibration feet with mine.  I"ve seen some folks actually remove them for solid feet and get better results.  I've got some solid type leveling feet for mine that hopefully will work ok.

The manual is online on the website, and has been recently updated. Make sure you're looking at the most recent version.


			https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1236/
		



			https://www.precisionmatthews.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/PM-1236-v8-2021-3.pdf
		


Page 38 has a section for the "new" foot brake setup for lathes mid-2020 and newer.

Btw - Mine seems to have come with a spider setup, something that wasn't listed as part of the PEP package.  Was a nice surprise.


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## Aukai (Apr 29, 2021)

I asked about the cast iron stand for the 1340, but I was told it was not available


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## bakrch (Apr 29, 2021)

It is really no sweat once you have the lathe in front of you, you will get used to it quickly. The only thing I have to add is that on my particular PM1236 I needed to use a gear puller for the first 10 changes or so until it wore in a bit.  After that, the process is super quick.


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## ShawnR (Apr 29, 2021)

fursphere said:


> Hey there.
> 
> I just got mine delivered yesterday.  I've only opened the crate to inspect for damage - everything looks good so far.  Now I get to move it to the new house next week.  (get the keys tomorrow)
> 
> ...




Congrats on the house! Exciting times, and a new lathe too....life is good for you. Cheers! 

I do have the cast iron stands. Yes, the weight surprised me too. I think in the first instructions you get to, page 2 or 3ish, it says put the stands 34" apart but that becomes obviously wrong if you put the chip tray on and line up the lathe mounting holes. After lining up the bases and getting it all set, then I tried the chip tray...oops...so trial and error.  Then there are newer instructions pertinent to the cast iron stands starting on page 38, as you mention but they don't really address positioning but does address the newer style of base, ie access panels, etc. But then, as mentioned above, after positioning so the bolt holes line up, the foot pedal bar needs to be cut off.    I don't think I need anything measured. It looks straight forward after jumping around the instruction book, and moving stands around and considering clearances needed for future considerations, etc. Odd that they put all of the electrical access at the back of a machine that I would think would generally go into a small shop, against a wall.

The manual looks really good compared to what would normally come with such a machine but still needs some work, imho. Will see how far I get tomorrow but I think I have my head around where I am going now. I have an idea for feet so see if that works out. I will report back.

Pretty nice looking machine. Can hardly wait to try it out. 

Cheers,


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## ShawnR (Apr 29, 2021)

bakrch said:


> It is really no sweat once you have the lathe in front of you, you will get used to it quickly. The only thing I have to add is that on my particular PM1236 I needed to use a gear puller for the first 10 changes or so until it wore in a bit.  After that, the process is super quick.


Thanks bakrch

compared to what I have been doing (5 tools and gear change for every pitch), this lathe will be sweet!


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## fursphere (Apr 29, 2021)

Its possible there is a mix of old and new parts in your crate, especially considering the cast iron stands have been updated and are different than the welded sheet metal ones, and that's why you're having alignment issues.   Have you reached out to PM Tech Support?  Those folks usually response pretty quick and have been very helpful every time I've reached out.    Had a few questions / concerns when I received my PM-30MV-HS mill and they were quick to help me out.  

Shoot them an email or give them a call, maybe there is something wonky, or the answer just isn't presenting itself. 

I probably won't get to play with mine for a week or three, so I won't be much help until then.   Right now I just look at in the crate and patiently wait.


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## ShawnR (Apr 29, 2021)

fursphere said:


> Its possible there is a mix of old and new parts in your crate, especially considering the cast iron stands have been updated and are different than the welded sheet metal ones, and that's why you're having alignment issues.   Have you reached out to PM Tech Support?  Those folks usually response pretty quick and have been very helpful every time I've reached out.    Had a few questions / concerns when I received my PM-30MV-HS mill and they were quick to help me out.
> 
> Shoot them an email or give them a call, maybe there is something wonky, or the answer just isn't presenting itself.
> 
> I probably won't get to play with mine for a week or three, so I won't be much help until then.   Right now I just look at in the crate and patiently wait.



Yea, I kind of think that is what is going on. I did call tech support with a question about the vibration feet. I did not want to call them everytime I had a question so figured I would see if anyone has had similar questions. Now that I think about it, if the bases were the 34" apart like early in the manual (referring to the steel cabinets I think, as you suggest), then the foot pedal bar would probably be the right length. All good. Thanks. 

If I find any other glitches, I will post them here for you or others.


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## fursphere (Apr 29, 2021)

I went out to the garage and setup the stands at 34" inches apart, and put the chip tray on top of them.   The holes were about 3.5" off.  Similar to what you mentioned.  (2nd pic)

I then pulled out the center blue sheet metal piece that goes in between the two stands.  30" wide.  (3rd pic)

Then pushed the stands together until the chip tray holes linted up.   Stands were about 30 - 30.5" apart at this point (which aligns with the center sheet metal).  

Then I pulled out the foot brake, and set it on the ground in between the stands - looks to be about the right size.  approx 30".   Removed the bottom drawer, and the end of the foot brake rod is about dead on with the rod inside the cabinet (5th pic), meaning the coupler would connect them.  

Did the rod on your foot brake shift to one side or the other?   (6th pic)  My finger in the first pic is pointing to where the hole is underneath the chip tray, showing the miss-alignment.  (1st pic)


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## fursphere (Apr 29, 2021)

This might be more helpful.  On the left side of the foot brake, the rod extends almost 8", on the right side only about 1".


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## ShawnR (Apr 29, 2021)

Thanks. That helped. After seeing your post, I went out to check and compare and the bracket lined up perfectly so I went WTF.... the top holes lined up and then I noticed the marks on the floor  were off. In short, because there is an extra set of holes in the top of the left cabinet, I think I measured the hole distance in the chip panel, then positioned the cabinets to line up but I must have used the wrong holes. Turns out I needed to reference the other set of holes. My cabinet spacing is 30 3/4" as well. 

I had thought the rod had shifted as well but it is pinned. Glad I did not go hacking things off. 

Thanks for taking the time to do that. 

Cheers,


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## fursphere (Apr 29, 2021)

Happy to help.  Glad you got it sorted out.


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## kb58 (Apr 30, 2021)

fursphere said:


> ...I think to completely get away from gear changes you have to get into the really big (and expensive) lathes.


Or add an Electronic Lead Screw (ELS), and there are several threads here about adding one.


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## ShawnR (May 1, 2021)

kb58 said:


> Or add an Electronic Lead Screw (ELS), and there are several threads here about adding one.


That sounds interesting. I will need to go find info on that. Thanks!

Well, it is up and running. I did end up shortening the bar on the foot pedal after all but only a half inch. It allows a little clearance for the foot pedal against the cabinets. The install went well other than my brain fart on the measurements. 

Thanks for the input all. 
Cheers, 
Shawn


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