# Coping Steel Tubing



## Aukai (Oct 18, 2016)

I have in the past used a tubing notcher to cope MS tubing for a roll cage, 1 5/8". Having a mill now, which would give a better result, the the hole saw, or an end mill? I would like to do both MS, and CM. If end mill, would a particular one be needed? Thank you


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## 12bolts (Oct 18, 2016)

You will need a pretty big end mill to suit the diameter of the tubing. Or a convoluted cutting pattern to follow with your x & y axis'
Unless you have CNC?

Cheers Phil


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## Aukai (Oct 18, 2016)

Thank you, no CNC, I think I saw a 1 5/8"x 3/4 shank checking web sites. I know the rpm would be more controlled if I use a hole saw with the mill, not my finger on a drill.


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## DSaul (Oct 18, 2016)

Gunrunner you need to order a set of these for the Z axis hand crank. Bill did you just spit coffee on your monitor? :rofl:

View attachment 253356


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## mzayd3 (Oct 18, 2016)

Another option would be annular cutters. They create a much smoother cut.


Or there's this...


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## Firestopper (Oct 18, 2016)

If you like using a hole saw, you'll love using a annular cutter.


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## Bob Korves (Oct 18, 2016)

+1 on the annular cutter.


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## Aukai (Oct 18, 2016)

DSaul that is very nice, if I had bare metal exposed like that here, it would have rust on it already.I am 1 mile down wind from the ocean here. The chop saw looks nifty, but I don't have an abrasive wheel, just a metal tooth saw. Thank you for the replies.


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## Tony Wells (Oct 18, 2016)

If your saw is intended to cut metal, it will work just like that chop saw.


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## Aukai (Oct 18, 2016)

I agree, just not free hand in my mind like the video. Low RPM big teeth worry me.


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## Tony Wells (Oct 19, 2016)

Agreed. I do not use a cold-saw free hand. They are not meant for that. But then neither are chop saws, but everybody does it.


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## Wreck™Wreck (Oct 22, 2016)

End mill or shell mill in a milling machine or lathe, in the distant past I built a V-Block holder for tubing held in a lathe cross slide, clamp tube in the V, set angle, place appropriate radius end mill in chuck and notch away. This is crude use of a lathe but works a charm as every sized tube will be on center with a V Clamp fixture.

Built many tube components for Northeast Modifieds using this method, this my own car with me at the wheel in 1990 so no advertising here.


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## kingmt01 (Oct 24, 2016)

I usually use hole saws but I've used a fly cutter as well.


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## KMoffett (Oct 24, 2016)

A site for all sorts of tube mitering combinations: http://dogfeatherdesign.com/ttn_js/

Ken


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## Nogoingback (Oct 26, 2016)

How about this?  Never used one, just came across this recently.

https://www.jd2.com/p-63-notchmaster.aspx


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## eugene13 (Nov 9, 2016)

we use lennox hole saws on both the mill and our "Old Joint Jigger"  annular cutters leave a better finish but i can buy 10 hole saws for the price of one


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## savarin (Nov 9, 2016)

You can cut and produce all the correct internal angles by hand if you so desire by using this software.
http://www.moz.geek.nz/mozbike/giles.html
I made all my bikes using it, the sprocket calc also is a goodie.


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## DSaul (Nov 10, 2016)

Paragon Machine Works sells hole saw arbors with 3/4" shanks that are much stiffer than the arbors that come with the saws.  They allow you to mount them to the mill with a collet instead of using a drill chuck and they are inexpensive enough to make it worth buying over making your own. 
http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=HS07

I know this doesn't really help the OP, because shipping to Hawaii would be ridiculous, but it may help some others.


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## Wreck™Wreck (Nov 12, 2016)

In the distant past I recall using hole saws with excellent results for roughing +3" holes in steel less then 3/8-1/2" thick, as I recall the typical contractor tool has a 5/8-18 stamped steel threaded hole with 2 drive pin holes for the quick change arbor, this will fail rapidly when pressed into service in a milling machine. I always cut the head off of a 5/8-18 machine screw, placed a nut on the threads then screwed it into the hole saw body and lightly welded them then placed the cut off HHCS body in a collet in the mill. 
I realize that spinning such a crude tool in an R8 collet (as will surely happen) is anathema to most hobbyists, import R8 collets cost less then a 12 pack of beer so buy several for this purpose.


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## eugene13 (Nov 12, 2016)

DSaul said:


> Paragon Machine Works sells hole saw arbors with 3/4" shanks that are much stiffer than the arbors that come with the saws.  They allow you to mount them to the mill with a collet instead of using a drill chuck and they are inexpensive enough to make it worth buying over making your own.
> http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=HS07
> 
> I know this doesn't really help the OP, because shipping to Hawaii would be ridiculous, but it may help some others.


How long are the arbors?


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## DSaul (Nov 13, 2016)

eugene13 said:


> How long are the arbors?


Did you click on the link?  They come in 2 1/2" and 7 1/4" lengths for both thread sizes.(The smaller hole saws use a different thread than the larger ones)


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## bczygan (Nov 13, 2016)

I just use a disk sander.


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