# Regulating band saw speeds



## ChuckB

Picked up an old Power King band saw of craigslist that I want to try and convert to cut steel. I need to get the RPM's way down. Would one of these work, or would it damage the motor or cause other problems?


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## iron man

We use to call those a variac it will work if you have a AC brushed motor such as a drill , router, sawzall ect. But what you have there is a brushless type inductive motor it will not work I have converted treadmill motors over to work on my bandsaw and they do not disappoint.. Ray


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## fastback

Chuck, I can't answer you question about the variable control,but I can tell you that you can use a jack shaft with additional pulleys to reduce the speed.  That is what I have on my home made machine and has worked very well.  I think that a company by the name of Gil-built, Gilliom Manufacturing Company still has some information on this and what size pulley you need.  

Hope this helps.


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## Uncle Buck

iron man said:


> We use to call those a variac it will work if you have a brushed motor.. Ray



And if the motor is not brushed? Will it work but burn up the motor, or simply not work?

I have the exact same issue facing me. I have an old Craftsman saw that looks about like this Power King that I want to do the same thing with. Thank you for this thread!


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## iron man

I do not know why my post was deleted but I have done the same thing on this bandsaw it will work for you.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/12386-Wood-to-Metal-bandsaw-coversion-made-easy

 And here is a belt speed calculator that will help get the right SFPM

http://www.blocklayer.com/Pulley-BeltEng.aspx


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## iron man

Uncle Buck said:


> And if the motor is not brushed? Will it work but burn up the motor, or simply not work?
> 
> I have the exact same issue facing me. I have an old Craftsman saw that looks about like this Power King that I want to do the same thing with. Thank you for this thread!



 Yes it will burn up a non ac brushed motor windings.. Ray


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## CluelessNewB

Not sure where my earlier post went either but....

Induction motors like we typically use on machines are designed to run at a certain speed, the speed is controlled mostly by the input frequency not voltage.  These motors have two internal windings, a start winding and a run winding.  The start winding is controlled by a centrifugal switch that disconnects the winding electrically once the motor reaches about half speed. This winding is not designed to be run continuously.  If the motor never reaches speed the start winding will stay engaged and the motor will burn up.   For the same reason single phase output variable frequency drives won't work with the type of single phase motors we use on machines.

Gear reduction, belt reduction, chain reduction or a mix of the above are the only choice if you want to cut steel.


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## iron man

A bunch of post got deleted the other day it must be another glitch in the system..


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## ChuckB

Good info here. Thanks. I will investigate the other solutions mentioned.


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## Ruben

That's a handsome looking machine you have there!  However, wood cutting bandsaws sometimes have issues OTHER than just being way too fast for metal cutting.

The blade is typically pretty narrow, making it easy to cut circles and such, which is what they're designed to do.  Metal cutting bandsaws typically have a heavier blade, at least half an inch front to back, and more teeth per inch.  Verify that a metal cutting blade is available before putting a lot of work and money is that saw.

Another issue "may" be of concern.  Check both wheels to see if they will track OK with the heavy big metal cutting blade, AND that the coolant that you'll want to use to prolong blade life won't affect the bottom wheel.  Probably not an issue, but wood saws don't expect to be immersed in liquid while operating.

If everything looks good at that point, a jackshaft arrangement should work great.  The support stand you have should make it a snap to gear it down.


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## iron man

Ruben said:


> That's a handsome looking machine you have there! However, wood cutting bandsaws sometimes have issues OTHER than just being way too fast for metal cutting.
> 
> The blade is typically pretty narrow, making it easy to cut circles and such, which is what they're designed to do. Metal cutting bandsaws typically have a heavier blade, at least half an inch front to back, and more teeth per inch. Verify that a metal cutting blade is available before putting a lot of work and money is that saw.
> 
> Another issue "may" be of concern. Check both wheels to see if they will track OK with the heavy big metal cutting blade, AND that the coolant that you'll want to use to prolong blade life won't affect the bottom wheel. Probably not an issue, but wood saws don't expect to be immersed in liquid while operating.
> 
> If everything looks good at that point, a jackshaft arrangement should work great. The support stand you have should make it a snap to gear it down.



At any welding supply you can get any width metal cutting blade you want I bought 1/4 and 1/2 for mine for $10 a piece. The tires or bandsaw wheels are no different on the wood or metal ones I have seen combo saws that use the same wheels and guides. I have used bandsaws in machine shops that run all day long with no coolant and in a home shop is not needed. If you dont tell the bandsaw it was meant for wood it will never know!!!!


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## ChuckB

Here's some more pic's of it if anyone is interested.

These are probably all over the place up north, but in South Florida you don't see too many of these if any. I have mixed emotions for buying this.. sometime I wake up and think.. Why did I buy this?? Other times I inspect it and think.. This is cool!! I must admit though.. I have little or no room in my garage..

I almost left the stand behind, but am now glad I didn't.. It is vintage of the same era. One owner.. Owned by an old man that died. He etched his driver license number on the motor and the cutting deck. He was born in 1919. Probably bought this when he was in his mid 20's. These pic were taken before I cleaned it up. 







In remarkable condition. Looks like it had little use or it was taken care of. It was given to the guy I got it from just recently, but he never used it. Said the blade kept coming off.. I wonder why??   He said if I didn't buy it, he was going to take the motor and throw the rest away. I gave him 75 for it. I probably could have got it for 50. I cringed when he told me he had all the old mans stuff, but threw most of it away because it was rusty. He didn't seem too mechanically inclined from talking with him.. He did make the wood cart underneth though...








only thing that might be missing is a pulley guard on this side.



Hard to make out, but you can see the old man's driver license number ending in 19 etched at the top of the motor.








The tires were rotted. I used a heat gun and a sharpened chisel and they came off pretty good. I had to use a piece of fine steel wool with a litte acetone on it to remove rubber film and get the wheel surfaces shiny clean. I ordered a set of tires off ebay. The paint isn't real good, but should clean up better... I might leave it like that and just paint the stand. I want to move the motor underneath.


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## iron man

If those are 14 inch wheels Grizzly sells the tires for them that is probably why the blade kept coming off great find it should work well for you.. Ray


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## itsme_Bernie

I agree- beautiful find!

I used a cheap lathe countershaft I found on eBay, and hung it underneath the bandsaw to slow it down.  

The stand is perfect- easy mounting motor, jack shaft, countershaft underneath to slow it down.
Don't regret it a minute- just utilize the opposite side of the stand for something else-
Maybe even turn the bandsaws to fit sideways, making more room to use on the other side? 

What a beauty! 

Bernie


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## Kernbigo

Go on ebay they have the rubber repacement wheels. Use a treadmill motor and the smallest pulley you can find to reduce the speed, they work great , i have done several.As far as the blades go buy doaal blade material and silver solder your own to any lg. you want, using a simple jig. I like 1/4' WIDTH the best in either a 308-601 or a 309-047


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## ChuckB

iron man said:


> If those are 14 inch wheels Grizzly sells the tires for them that is probably why the blade kept coming off great find it should work well for you.. Ray



Thanks, I know that's why they were coming off.. the 70 year old tires on it were down right ugly. See my post above.




itsme_Bernie said:


> I agree- beautiful find!
> 
> I used a cheap lathe countershaft I found on eBay, and hung it underneath the bandsaw to slow it down.
> 
> The stand is perfect- easy mounting motor, jack shaft, countershaft underneath to slow it down.
> Don't regret it a minute- just utilize the opposite side of the stand for something else-
> Maybe even turn the bandsaws to fit sideways, making more room to use on the other side?
> 
> What a beauty!
> 
> Bernie



Thanks. I will probably center the saw on the stand to make it as narrow as possible. The stand must have been some kind of kit that was available back then.. It is assembled with screws, nuts and these funky clamps:






I am still looking for countershaft/jackshaft info to see what I can do.

I looked at another saw today.. an AMC, American made 14", but it was a piece of junk. The pot metal bracket that held the top wheel was broken. I was thinking about getting it for the lower stand/base and the motor, plus it had a cool on/off switch and a light. Could probably get it for 20.00.






Kernbigo said:


> Go on ebay they have the rubber repacement wheels. Use a treadmill motor and the smallest pulley you can find to reduce the speed, they work great , i have done several.As far as the blades go buy doaal blade material and silver solder your own to any lg. you want, using a simple jig. I like 1/4' WIDTH the best in either a 308-601 or a 309-047



As mentioned in an eariler post, I already have new tires coming. Thanks for the blade info.. I like the idea of cutting them to size myself. I only plan to cut 1/4 mild steel and aluminum.


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## iron man

The blades I purchased where cut, welded and annealed for $10 hard to beat that and they seem to be lasting just fine I use it all the time.. Ray


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## fastback

I also weld my own blades.  I made a jig and use silver solder.  It works great.  I use 3/8-inch blade stock.  Oh, if you weld your own you can some times find long blades on sale and cut them down to fit your saw.


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## ChuckB

Decided to go down and get the above mentioned bandsaw today. Actually the brand is AMT, made in Tiawan. Picked it up for 10.00. The upper wheel bracket was broken. Made of pot metal and also I broke the table brackets, also made of pot metal when I was loading it. Poorly made in my opinion. No big deal though because I got it for the base and motor. 



I plan on using the bottom base for my Power King. It is mounted on coaster wheels which make it easy to move around. Nice little light too. The Power King is 16" at the bottom and the base is 15 3/4, But I think it will work out okay. I'm thinking of putting a steel plate for strength between the base and the Power King unit. It was missing the side cover for the motor, but I can easily make one.





The motor is a USA made unit by Dayton. I'm not sure of the horse power because it is hard to see the label.. motor looks good and runs smooth. Wiring is first class. The motor is mounted sideways and has some slots for belt tension. The box on the side is the cover for the pulley. Probably won't fit on the Power King.




Nice quality USA power switch too.



Even if the base doesn't work out, althought I would be surprised, I think it was worth the amount I paid just for the lamp, motor and switch.


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## Hawkeye

For reference, the reason that you can't regulate the speed of an induction motor by just turning down the voltage (that's what a variac does) is how the motor controls the current draw under normal conditions. A motor is also a generator. When a motor starts turning, it starts generating a voltage (counter EMF or CEMF) that opposes the voltage that's making it turn (EMF) . When the CEMF balances the EMF, the speed and current stabilize.

If you put more load on the motor, the speed is reduced and the CEMF is reduced. Without the counter effect, the current increases, adding enough torque to the motor to hold the new, lower speed and set a new balance. If too much load is added, the rotor will stall and maximum current starts to flow. If the control system (or operator) doesn't shut it down, the high current will generate high heat in the windings, burning out the motor. Running at reduced speed and high current, even though still turning, will over-heat the motor and eventually damage it.

VFDs control speed by changing the frequency and adjusting voltage and current for optimum performance. This is quite easy to do on a 3-phase motor, not so easy on single-phase. I'm using a jack-shaft on my bandsaw conversion. Much easier and cheaper.


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## ChuckB

Hawkeye said:


> For reference, the reason that you can't regulate the speed of an induction motor by just turning down the voltage (that's what a variac does) is how the motor controls the current draw under normal conditions. A motor is also a generator. When a motor starts turning, it starts generating a voltage (counter EMF or CEMF) that opposes the voltage that's making it turn (EMF) . When the CEMF balances the EMF, the speed and current stabilize.
> 
> If you put more load on the motor, the speed is reduced and the CEMF is reduced. Without the counter effect, the current increases, adding enough torque to the motor to hold the new, lower speed and set a new balance. If too much load is added, the rotor will stall and maximum current starts to flow. If the control system (or operator) doesn't shut it down, the high current will generate high heat in the windings, burning out the motor. Running at reduced speed and high current, even though still turning, will over-heat the motor and eventually damage it.
> 
> VFDs control speed by changing the frequency and adjusting voltage and current for optimum performance. This is quite easy to do on a 3-phase motor, not so easy on single-phase. I'm using a jack-shaft on my bandsaw conversion. Much easier and cheaper.



Thanks for that explaination.

I guess if I use the base from the AMT, I won't have enough room under there to mechnically regulate the rpms. (?)


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## ChuckB

Sat the Power King on the AMT base.. fits almost perfect. The Dayton motor turned out to be 1HP, twice the size of the old Craftsman.





I like the smaller footprint.. it takes up less than half the space of the original stand. I plan on sand blasting and painting the base dark green. The Power King paint, although not too bad,  definitely shows it's age, but I like that it is original. What do yall think, should I paint it too or leave it alone. Perhaps another color than forest green for the base and saw.. maybe gray?



The lamp cleaned up nice. USA made by Dayton. This alone was worth the 10.00 to me.


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## mrbreezeet1

Heck yeah, it was worth $10.00. The light is nice.
Bet you moved the Band saw by the table when you broke the trunnions. 
Looks like a Delta clone. That motor is about $200.00 new. 
Thanks,
Tony


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## itsme_Bernie

Heck yeah!  As mr breeze said...  Man, I gotta move to your town- no good deals like that by me!  Not even on Craigslist!  

Since you are asking opinions, I would leave as much of the original paint as possible- can't beat that experience these machines have been through in -100 years?!  Fantastic.


Bernie


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## ChuckB

mrbreezeet1 said:


> Heck yeah, it was worth $10.00. The light is nice.
> Bet you moved the Band saw by the table when you broke the trunnions.
> Looks like a Delta clone. That motor is about $200.00 new.
> Thanks,
> Tony



I laid it side ways in my truck and then shifted it 90 degrees so I could close the topper and the sudden weight on the table broke the trunnions. Poorly made. The Power King is all solid steel! Loaded it the same way and nothing broke.

Learned something though.. be careful when you load something in the truck. I was lucky I was only buying it for the base )


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## ChuckB

itsme_Bernie said:


> Heck yeah!  As mr breeze said...  Man, I gotta move to your town- no good deals like that by me!  Not even on Craigslist!
> 
> Since you are asking opinions, I would leave as much of the original paint as possible- can't beat that experience these machines have been through in -100 years?!  Fantastic.
> 
> 
> Bernie



I don't know about that.. I have seen some nice lathes for sale up north where you're at.. I rarely see any for sale down here. Rarely see any American made machine stuff at all.. I was just lucky and also the dude was a nice guy.


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## Uncle Buck

I like the original finish on the saw myself. I also like the original stand the saw was setting on though it is a bit clumsier I suppose. I don't suppose you want to sell your old original stand do you?????


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## ChuckB

Uncle Buck said:


> I like the original finish on the saw myself. I also like the original stand the saw was setting on though it is a bit clumsier I suppose. I don't suppose you want to sell your old original stand do you?????



I thought about making a work table out of it, but  If you were in South Florida, I would give it to you. 

Nice that some one apperciates it, but to be honest with you, I don't want to go through the hassel of disassembling it and shipping it.. I know this sounds cold, but that's the way it is.. I would rather use it for something before going through that. 

Now If you knew a forum member here who could pick it up for you..)


Probably cost 1.98 back in the day.. It really isn't heavy duty, but it is structured and unique.. I like the way the legs curve..


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## Uncle Buck

ChuckB said:


> I thought about making a work table out of it, but  If you were in South Florida, I would give it to you.
> 
> Nice that some one apperciates it, but to be honest with you, I don't want to go through the hassel of disassembling it and shipping it.. I know this sounds cold, but that's the way it is.. I would rather use it for something before going through that.
> 
> Now If you knew a forum member here who could pick it up for you..)
> 
> 
> Probably cost 1.98 back in the day.. It really isn't heavy duty, but it is structured and unique.. I like the way the legs curve..
> 
> View attachment 50672
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 50673



Actually, it is just real traditional. My vert bandsaw sets on a stand that could be it's twin. I have a 4" wood jointer on another stand that looks just like it as well. Those stands were the norm back when those machines were made.


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## ChuckB

ChuckB said:


> The Power King is all solid steel!



I take that back.. same parts on the AMT that are cast are also cast on the Power King..:thinking:


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## ChuckB

Uncle Buck said:


> Actually, it is just real traditional. My vert bandsaw sets on a stand that could be it's twin. I have a 4" wood jointer on another stand that looks just like it as well. Those stands were the norm back when those machines were made.



Maybe I can find it in an old Sears catalog?

Well I'll hang on to it for you. Maybe one day I will have a change of heart and send it.


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## ChuckB

Uncle Buck said:


> Actually, it is just real traditional. My vert bandsaw sets on a stand that could be it's twin. I have a 4" wood jointer on another stand that looks just like it as well. Those stands were the norm back when those machines were made.



Uncle B.. you know.. the more I think about I, why would I want to put it on that base and be limited to cutting wood, when I can put it on the cool stand and have plenty of room to slow it down with a countershaft, and in the mean time put it together as is (I got the new tires on) and cut wood! What was I thinking ?.. you hinted to keep it on the stand a few posts back  Your right (again!) The coolness of it is that you made me realize is worth making room for it!


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## woodtickgreg

Great find and cool rebuild, love the old iron.


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## Uncle Buck

ChuckB said:


> Uncle B.. you know.. the more I think about I, why would I want to put it on that base and be limited to cutting wood, when I can put it on the cool stand and have plenty of room to slow it down with a countershaft, and in the mean time put it together as is (I got the new tires on) and cut wood! What was I thinking ?.. you hinted to keep it on the stand a few posts back  Your right (again!) The coolness of it is that you made me realize is worth making room for it!



In honesty I spend a lot of time looking at the restored machines over at  www.owwm.com  the pictures and stuff over there always motivates me to retain as much of the old as is reasonable in my old machines. Surprising how nice old machines can look on their period correct stands. I love the vintage machinery.


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## ChuckB

Uncle Buck said:


> In honesty I spend a lot of time looking at the restored machines over at  www.owwm.com  the pictures and stuff over there always motivates me to retain as much of the old as is reasonable in my old machines. Surprising how nice old machines can look on their period correct stands. I love the vintage machinery.



Needed to cut some nylon rods today and decided to reconfigure the Power King on the original stand. I made some better mounting hardware, reversed the motor direction and spent time making adjustments. Got it tracking good and tried to cut some 2 X 4.. Wouldn't cut.. the force of the piece was pushing the blade off.. hmmm dull blade? Sharpened it with a drimmel tool.. Cuts like butter  What a cool saw.. thanks Buck for making me see the light.. That stand is cool (and versatile) 

















I'm thinking of putting the other motor underneath and use a counter shaft to get the speed down to be able to cut metal. I will keep the other motor on top for cutting wood.


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## Uncle Buck

Ya know you might even like the stand more if you fit a piece of plywood between the bottom of the saw and the top of the slats the machine is setting on. Many guys did that too. Just another thought. If you need to route a belt to another motor below simply cut a little window into the plywood and routhe the belt through there.


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## ChuckB

Uncle Buck said:


> Ya know you might even like the stand more if you fit a piece of plywood between the bottom of the saw and the top of the slats the machine is setting on. Many guys did that too. Just another thought. If you need to route a belt to another motor below simply cut a little window into the plywood and routhe the belt through there.



I was thinking about the plywood.. good to hear it was something that was done. I have had a lot of fun with that saw 

Sounds like another project to add to the list 

which includes..

Getting familiar with using my Atlas lathe.. I am deff a beginner
86 Tourglide in pieces, rebuilding the flywheels.
SB 10L in pieces..cleaning and painting.
'76 Tri Bonneville.. bought all the pieces but need to tear i down to paint the frame.
vintage Craftsman drill press to pimp up.
and the poor old '50 Chevy truck.. body in pieces since '91














plus all the other other stuff


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## Uncle Buck

Boy can I relate to that^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^I also have way to many irons in the fire and unfinished projects myself!


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## woodtickgreg

Uncle Buck said:


> Boy can I relate to that^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^I also have way to many irons in the fire and unfinished projects myself!



Ditto, me too.


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## ChuckB

After having the Power King for a few weeks, I realize that even if I converted it to metal, it would be limited.

Found this for 90.00. Just what Im looking for! I heard that the Taiwan versions of this saw were decent.. I'm Excited!! (or should I be? is this junk?)

I guess the Power King has to go to make room though..

Ad descibing it:

Used and working metal bandsaw.  Semi automatic.  Can angle cut materal 0-45 degrees, up to 4 1/2" thick.  Just clamp in the pipe/bar/stock, lower the arm, turn on the power and it will cut on it's own, and shut offs automatically when the cut is finished.  Saw has 2 wheels so it can be rolled around your shop/garage.  110V


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## mrbreezeet1

did you buy it yet? better go get it if not................LOL

I don't have one (yet?) but have _*Heard*_ they are good too. Taiwan better than China is true, from what l understand as well. 
Probably just as good as a jet, may need some tuning, may not. 

I would probably buy it too. 
But I do have a delta wood metal that only "sees" metal.
IDK with this sander I just got, I cant walk in my garage as it is, so If I don't find a house in a price range I can live with with a nice garage, I will have to make some room. 
Maybe the router table will have to go, and get built into the table saw.



ChuckB said:


> After having the Power King for a few weeks, I realize that even if I converted it to metal, it would be limited.
> 
> Found this for 90.00. Just what Im looking for! I heard that the Taiwan versions of this saw were decent.. I'm Excited!! (or should I be? is this junk?)
> 
> I guess the Power King has to go to make room though..
> 
> Ad describing it:
> 
> Used and working metal bandsaw.  Semi automatic.  Can angle cut materal 0-45 degrees, up to 4 1/2" thick.  Just clamp in the pipe/bar/stock, lower the arm, turn on the power and it will cut on it's own, and shut offs automatically when the cut is finished.  Saw has 2 wheels so it can be rolled around your shop/garage.  110V


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## Ruben

That's a decent and very popular style saw.  Chinese version still being sold by Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html , Northern Tool http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200365120_200365120 , and many other sources.

Doesn't look like "junk", but has much rust showing, so need investigation.  Remove the back cover, and check that the wheels are in good shape, and verify that the ball bearings near the cutting slot all rotate freely, with no grinding noise.  They're sealed, so they might be OK.  If the bearings and the wheels are OK, then its likely a good buy, a bit under half the price of a new one.

Expect to have to replace the blade, but that's no big deal.


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## ChuckB

Thanks guys for the great info!!


Emailed the guy twice.. called his cell.. voice mail full.. He did reply back once, "yep I still got it." Divine intrervention? Maybe I should pass and pay a little more for a better one.. 

Here's one a lot closer to me:


JET BAND SAW $350.00

7" CAPACITY  -  HORIZONTAL
3/4" HP MOTOR W/ HYDROLIC ASSIST

SAW IS USED BUT FUNCTIONS WELL.







OR:


7" Metal Cutting Band Saw - $450


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## woodtickgreg

I'd probably go for the jet, easier to get parts for. It will probably clean up well.


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## ChuckB

Funny how that works.. people list on craigslist and don't answer their emails and their voice mail is full.. Anyway, I know what I want now.. a saw of that type.. smallish, the older the better and in as decent condition as I can find. I see them listed quite often, so I will take my time and find a good one. A BIG weakness in my garage.. being able to cut steel easily.. I really want to get a metal cutting saw..

I decided to keep the Power King, but mount it on the base for a smaller footprint due to my cramped garage. Uncle Buck.. if you still want that vintage rack, I will disassemble and ship to you.. just pay the shipping.

I intended to sandblast the cabinet today, but by the time I stripped it down, it began to rain. Don't worry though.. it's still in the 80's here.. I been working with my shirt off all day. ) It stopped raining, but it's too late to start.. I like to sandblast and paint right away while the surface in clean.

Here is far as I got, but I will post some progress in the next week or so. Instead of dark green, I am thinking about painting it the same Rusto spray paint I have been using on the lathe. I am going to leave the original paint on the saw.. 












The Dayton motor's shaft that came with the base seems to be out of true a little bit.. the pully wobbles.. might be okay or I might have to use the original Atlas motor.. Would rather use the Dayton.. more horsepower.


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## mrbreezeet1

Thought about some polishing compound and wax for the Bandsaw?
That's what I am doing to the base for my sander.


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## ChuckB

You mean the saw itself? I was thinking about pimping it up with something.. 

The base will deff be sandblasted.


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## mrbreezeet1

ChuckB said:


> You mean the saw itself? I was thinking about pimping it up with something..
> 
> The base will deff be sandblasted.



Yeah, the painted sheet metal on the bandsaw itself. 
I was going to paint my base, but I have to use spray bombs or brush, so I decided to rub it out lightly with polishing compound, and waxed it. I just did a small section so far, but it looks pretty good. 
I am brush painting the cast iron sander part itself. 
It's looking pretty good.
But I am waiting for bearings, and ran into a problem, there is a spanner nut that holds the top bearing in, and it is missing, and Delta wants $64.00 for it. 
I might try to brush up on my threading and try to make one. 
It is a Rockwell 31-520 .
The stand is just like the one your sand blasting, but with a riser. 
This $100.00 sander is starting to cost me money.


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## ChuckB

I got some parts left over from the 14" AMT which I was told that Delta copied.. post a pic and show me what you need.. They are trash to me.. would rather them go to good use than get thrown away..

oops.. reread.. your are talking about a sander..


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## Jeff May

Have you considered using a transmission from a riding mower?I read an article years ago where a guy used a 3 or 4 speed transmission out of an old riding mower. It gave him several speeds to choose from.


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## ChuckB

Jeff May said:


> Have you considered using a transmission from a riding mower?I read an article years ago where a guy used a 3 or 4 speed transmission out of an old riding mower. It gave him several speeds to choose from.



All my projects are on hold for now due to my knee injury, but that sounds like a good idea. My Dad was a well driller and and all of his rigs used automotive type transmissions to regulate the cat head speeds.


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## mrbreezeet1

Jeff May said:


> Have you considered using a transmission from a riding mower?I read an article years ago where a guy used a 3 or 4 speed transmission out of an old riding mower. It gave him several speeds to choose from.





ChuckB said:


> All my projects are on hold for now due to my knee injury, but that sounds like a good idea. My Dad was a well driller and and all of his rigs used automotive type transmissions to regulate the cat head speeds.


That is a good idea. 

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