# G4003g Lifting



## IdiotEngineer (Jan 1, 2017)

My apologies if this has been asked and answered before, searched and couldn't find anything.

I just ordered a G4003G. What length slings/straps/belts do I need to rig the lathe as shown in the manual? If it makes a difference, I'll be lifting the lathe with an engine hoist.


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## jmanatee (Jan 2, 2017)

I think my straps are 4',

Be careful with strap placement.   Make sure you don't bend the lead screws.

Depending on the hoist it can be tricky with the hoists legs...  but you can get it.

Congrats on the new lathe


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## dave2176 (Jan 2, 2017)

I used a 8 foot around the headstock end and a 6 foot for the tailstock. Engine hoist carried the entire lathe.

You're going to like that lathe.

Dave


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## IdiotEngineer (Jan 2, 2017)

Thanks!


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## abrace (Jan 2, 2017)

Harbor freight load leveler was a huge help.

Just make sure you are careful around the switch box for the switch on the apron that control lathe forward/reverse. It is really easy to break when rigging. If you follow the instructions in the Grizzly manual as to where to rig it, you may break that box.


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## IdiotEngineer (Jan 2, 2017)

My hoist came with a load leveler. I just spent a couple of hours making shims for one of the wheels to keep the hoist from tipping under a load. Cheap chinese junk but what do you expect from Northern Tool? I saw someone's video on youtube where they took out the screw holding the switch box and slid the sling underneath the switch box. As long as an 8 footer is long enough to go around the headstock 1-1/2 times like they show in the manual thats what I'll order. Too long isnt good because it could end up so un-level that a load leveler cant fix it.


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## tmarks11 (Jan 2, 2017)

Get help when you move it.  5# of force applied at the right time can be the difference between disaster and success.


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## abrace (Jan 3, 2017)

IdiotEngineer said:


> My hoist came with a load leveler. I just spent a couple of hours making shims for one of the wheels to keep the hoist from tipping under a load. Cheap chinese junk but what do you expect from Northern Tool? I saw someone's video on youtube where they took out the screw holding the switch box and slid the sling underneath the switch box. As long as an 8 footer is long enough to go around the headstock 1-1/2 times like they show in the manual thats what I'll order. Too long isnt good because it could end up so un-level that a load leveler cant fix it.



Shims for the front wheels way out on the outriggers or the back wheels? If it is the front wheels, it is not uncommon for them to not touch or barely touch until you get a decent load on the crane.


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## IdiotEngineer (Jan 3, 2017)

Had to shim the front right wheel. When I put my weight on the beam, the whole lift dipped and tilted to the right and the back left wheel picked up. When lowering the outriggers, I have to pick the hoist up the insert the pin in for the left outrigger, and the right outrigger pin is totally lose. The wheels in the middle only touch the ground with the outriggers up in the storage position, but that makes sense because the instructions have you put the two smaller wheels in the "middle" position (when outriggers are down). I've got 9/16" worth of shims on the right outrigger wheel and while the pin is still a slip fit, there is almost no slack left when trying to pick up on the right outrigger. One more shim and the right pin will be pre-loaded like the left pin. The holes for the pin on the left side of the frame are lower down than the right side, forcing the left outrigger lower than the right outrigger. I didn't want to grind the holes on the left so I shimmed the right wheel.


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## abrace (Jan 3, 2017)

IdiotEngineer said:


> Had to shim the front right wheel. When I put my weight on the beam, the whole lift dipped and tilted to the right and the back left wheel picked up. When lowering the outriggers, I have to pick the hoist up the insert the pin in for the left outrigger, and the right outrigger pin is totally lose. The wheels in the middle only touch the ground with the outriggers up in the storage position, but that makes sense because the instructions have you put the two smaller wheels in the "middle" position (when outriggers are down). I've got 9/16" worth of shims on the right outrigger wheel and while the pin is still a slip fit, there is almost no slack left when trying to pick up on the right outrigger. One more shim and the right pin will be pre-loaded like the left pin. The holes for the pin on the left side of the frame are lower down than the right side, forcing the left outrigger lower than the right outrigger. I didn't want to grind the holes on the left so I shimmed the right wheel.



Yah, that sounds a little sketchy...I don't blame you for wanting to shim a little then.


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