# An attempt to execute the 400 rpm threading for a  G0602 plan



## Baithog (Feb 12, 2015)

I almost canceled this project. Tooling was lost by the shipper, the metals order was back ordered, and then lost. I finally get the metal and find that for some unknown reason, half way through the order, I started ordering 6- 1” pieces instead of 1-6” piece. There are some days and some projects that the universe doesn’t like. My boss never let us engineers go home on days when the laws of physics were suspended, so I’m not going to start going with the flow now.

The gear blanks were a fun exercise. It would have been nice to have one of the X thingies that move the part away from the chuck face, or a smaller 4-jaw chuck to fit my 1” long pieces of metal. And a vice on the 4X6 band saw to cut short pieces with. I managed the saw issue by clamping a drill press vice in the saw, then clamping the round stock in it. I cut about 80% of the way through, put a wedge in the kerf, then turned the stock over and finished the cut. A small stock holder is on the list now. I hate to throw away itty bitty pieces of material.



So after slicing, dicing, and turning, I end up with this -



Notice the stacks of 1” stock in the background. The stub mandrel with the cutter mounted turned out to be concentric challenged. Not being able to power feed away from the headstock has me turning parts around that I really shouldn’t. This project will fix the missing tumbler, too. Being able to turn between centers is also on my list, so at some point I will fabricate a family of lathe dogs. The one I bought for this project needs extensive modification to fit my drive plate. The teeth on the #6 cutter are more worn on one side than the other. Hopefully the slightly deeper cut will not screw up the mesh.

So a trip through this set up and I have gear teeth.



Yes, that is a horizontal rotary table bolted to an angle plate standing in for a dividing head.

And now for the teeth -



The gear on the lower right is the result of setting up the mill for 30 teeth, then deciding to start with 40 tooth blanks after all. The cutter was changed, but then I got called away to dinner, then a TV show, and returning to the shop in auto pilot, I cut 40 teeth into the plastic blank. It meshes reasonably well with a module 1 gear, and the teeth are a bit pointy. That is why there is a white and a black idler gear.

Next are the axles, which will be used to test fit the sleeve bearings and the clutch.


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## roadie33 (Feb 12, 2015)

I so badly want a mill so I can cut gears like that. 
That looks so cool to be able to cut your own gears.

I want to replace all of the Zamak ones on my lathe with steel, to hopefully cut down on the noise they make.


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## Baithog (Feb 12, 2015)

A mill is really nice, no doubt about it. Steel gears will not be quieter. All metal on metal gears make noise. Cast iron is supposed to be the quietest of the metal. Plastic gears are much quieter until the tip speed gets high. Then it's sorta like off road tires on a truck.


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## JimSchroeder (Feb 13, 2015)

Congratulations Baithog, your progress is admirable.  What model lathe is this clutch being constructed for?  I really like your mill, looks like a Bridgeport.

Jim


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## Baithog (Feb 27, 2015)

Jim – I have a G0602 lathe like you do, only mine is still belt driven. No Bridgeport here. I wouldn’t turn one down, but I really don’t have the room, and they are not common on the used market here in central Florida. I have a G0759, which is the G0704 with a DRO. You posted the model of the body from the outside. Could you post the view from the machine side? I'm not sure I understand the reference to cutting the relief for the shift fork. Maybe it will make more sense when I start in on it, but my brain just isn't grasping the cavity for the clutch stack.

******************

So I set up to turn the main axle between centers, and then turned the flange and outer axle. Just for jollies I measured the output gear bore again. That was fortunate because the bore was 0.009 over size. The telescope gauge had a scratchy spot, which made the hole look smaller than it was. That made the last pass remove too much. Cheap tooling gets you sometimes. I just made the outer axle bigger and bored one dog gear bushing a little more… problem solved. After the output gear error, I lost a lot of faith in my internal measuring ability. I found a reamer for the outer axle bore. It worked really nice.





To proceed, I needed the rotary table, so I took time out to make a tooling plate for my 6-inch table. It’s not as big as Jim’s, being only 7 inches, but it has turned out to be really handy. Just today, I was making the end washer for the axle and it parted off too thick. Actually I preferred too thick to too thin. There is no way to put something that thin in a chuck, so I clamped the washer to the tooling plate and milled it to thickness.




This is a dog gear getting its dog pin hole drilled



And this is the slot being milled in the clutch disk.





The clutch is deceptively simple looking. I expected to have problems with the gear teeth, which I didn’t. The clutch is just some slots, but it took 3 tries to get the 3 slots in alignment.

And here is the assembled stack.





The bronze washer is recessed into the output gear and the outer axle shorted slightly in my version. Try as I might, I couldn’t get enough clearance on the main axle to get a thick enough washer on it… at least a washer I was comfortable with. The gears and clutch spin freely, so it should work. The last job with the stack is to fabricate the key slots. The externals are no biggy. The internals are fighting me. I’ve tried using a cutter in a boring bar as a poor man’s shaper, but it wasn’t going too well. After an hour of trying different grinds on the cutter, I opted for a broach. It should be here Saturday. I will have to make a bushing for the clutch and the output gear. I’m thinking the bushings will go a lot quicker than my cutter grinding.


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## Uglydog (Feb 27, 2015)

I'm working toward gears. I hope!
Thank you for the inspiration.
Daryl
MN


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## Baithog (Mar 6, 2015)

New machines sometimes come with unexpected learning opportunities. The G0759 is so much more rigid than the old Seig X2 that I sometimes forget that it is not a 2-tonner. The body provided me with one of those learning experiences. I squared the block up with the table and drilled the pilot holes with a new ½” drill. The block then moved to the rotary table to have the gear pockets milled. Having this new, powerful mill, I mounted a ½” mill and started climb milling .100X.100 cuts. All went well for most of the pocket. I had a mound of chips obscuring the pocket, then the motor stalled and the motor fuse blew. I assumed that I had just gotten carried away with the feed rate. I replaced the fuse with my one and only fuse and promptly blew it too.  So after a trip to Radio Shack for a fuse, I did some investigating. The end mill was being sucked down into the pocket by the down force of the flutes. I put a strap wrench on the spindle and tightened the collet as much as I could with the little 6mm wrench. It was still pulled down. Success only came by using an aluminum, two flute end mill (slower twist), reduced cut to .05X.1, and conventional milling at a reduced feed rate. I think I need those end mill holders after all. The bottoms of the two idler gear pockets look like a contour map of the great mound, but the body is functional. If this gadget works like it’s supposed to, I’ll order another block of aluminum and make it prettier.

This is the body from the outside with the main and input axles mounted. The butchery is on the other side.


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## Baithog (Mar 6, 2015)

And here is the other side with all of the gears mounted. Everything turns freely, but is a little noisy. I think the input idler is a smidge too close to the forward dog gear. I temporarily mounted the body on my G0602 so that it could drive the input idler. Other than a bit more noise than I expected, everything seemed to be spinning.


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## 6literZ (Mar 7, 2015)

Looking good! Definitely on my to do list!


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## jar944 (Mar 10, 2015)

Baithog said:


> So a trip through this set up and I have gear teeth.
> 
> View attachment 94832
> 
> Yes, that is a horizontal rotary table bolted to an angle plate standing in for a dividing head.



I wondered if that would work, I happy to see that it does. I'm going to have to order a larger angle plate now. 

Did you use a index plate on the rotary table, it doesn't appear so from the pictures?


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## Baithog (Mar 10, 2015)

It does work, although given a choice a rotary table that is meant to be on its side is superior. An index plate is not needed for this project.With the standard 90:1 table, the 40t gear is 2 turns +1 degree and the 30t is 3 turns even. A checklist and attention to detail should suffice. Now if I make more gears for other projects, I will upgrade to an index and a ground true stub arbor. Gears sound scary. I avoided them in the past, but they turn out to be a lot easier to do than some other operations.


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## great white (Mar 10, 2015)

roadie33 said:


> I so badly want a mill so I can cut gears like that.
> That looks so cool to be able to cut your own gears.
> 
> I want to replace all of the Zamak ones on my lathe with steel, to hopefully cut down on the noise they make.



Pssst; http://users.picknowl.com.au/~gloaming_agnet/cq9325rev7.html


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## Baithog (Mar 25, 2015)

I thought that I would be able to mount the clutch on the lathe tonight. But alas, I need to go buy a gear puller to get the spindle pulley off. Off to HF tomorrow for a tool.

Everything spins nicely and the manual shift linkage works well. Neutral is unstable. The clutch likes to be in either forward or reverse. The shift detent will fix that once everything is put together.


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## Smudgemo (Mar 26, 2015)

Super-cool project, Larry.

-Ryan


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## Baithog (Mar 26, 2015)

I got the pulley off and faced the next dilemma. I needed to turn down the inboard end of the pulley stack to clear the input gear, But no lathe. I got the pulley reasonable centered on the rotary table tooling plate and was able to mill it. The 6" pulley in the 7" tooling plate was an interesting clamping exercise. Sorry, I was to engrossed to take a picture.

I always have an assortment of metric screw in a box, but the longest 8mm screw was just barely long enough to grab a thread  on the headstock. I will visit my favorite hardware store tomorrow to get a proper screw. I was able to get the clutch to stay on the headstock long enough to power it up. It was noisy, which I expected, but it spun up, shifted smartly, and turned the lead screw in both directions. The clutch is held in position by a single mounting screw. It tended to rotate on the mounting screw when shifting directions. That may stop with a longer screw that can be tightened more, but I am tempted to drill the body and headstock for a 1/8" dowel pin once everything is assembled and in position. We used to do that kind of thing with linotypes in the olden days of printing..



The body interferes with putting the belt on the inner groove. I'm not sure why my rendition has that problem, but I took the body apart and cut away part of the body. It is still a little tight, so I may take off a little more before I mount it with the new screw. The picture is a bit dim, but it is in the red tinted area near the pulley.. I guess I could use a good macro lens and better light..


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## JimSchroeder (Mar 27, 2015)

Larry, I am impressed with your progress.  Thanks for posting your experiences on this project.  Most folks naturally shy away from doing things they have not tried before, like cutting gears.  You have shown the community that with a little patience it is not much more difficult than other routine operations.  On the rotating clutch body I would take a close look at drag or interference within the assembly.  Out of round gears etc,  I have never had a problem with rotation.  I suspect the gear loading is light and that is the reason.  Adding a dowel pin or even a second clamping bolt could be an option.  I did not want to bore or tap any extra holes in the headstock, doing such by hand is difficult and ending up with holes that are not square to the surface can be an issue.  The pocket that the bolt head fits into is oversize so that a SAE type washer would fit under the socket head screw.  This helps spread the clamping load.  I turned the washer from some steel rod stock.

A variable speed motor assembly will solve your interference problems.  Variable speed was the first change I  made after purchasing the lathe.  I used a DC treadmill motor and a KB speed control.  It has lasted all these years much to my surprise.  I have always told myself that as soon as the brushes wear out I will buy a VFD unit and motor to make a more sophisticated drive assembly.  The brushes are still working fine, not sure when I will be able to justify the VFD.

Keep posting your progress and any problems you have, you have done a really fine job.

Jim


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## Baithog (Mar 27, 2015)

Don't get too lavish with the praise just yet. I got a longer 8mm bolt and clamped the body down on the headstock. It still wanted to rotate a little when shifting at 720rpm. Then it started not wanting to shift in and out at all. I had magically developed a lot of end float on the outer axle. The clutch disk also was also hitting the edge of the recess in the dog gears.

I took it apart and started measuring things. The washer that I turned to adjust the end float had shrunk. More likely there had been a bur somewhere that had been removed when the clutch system had been spun up to speed. I am thinking of drilling and threading for a set screw between the teeth of the output gear above the key. That way I can adjust it to whatever clearance I want. An 8-32 tap will reach all the way to the key. - *Edit: A set screw will not work. I need to fill up 0.031 on the inner axle. Clamping the output gear to the outer axle does nothing. I need a shim washer 0.031 thick, with a hole larger than the inner axle and an OD smaller than the clutch boss. Maybe turn the diameters on the lathe (after putting it back together) and then milling it close to thickness. Finally lapping to achieve the clearance I want.*

My output gear was defective when I fabricated it. I bored the gear blank to 0.718. It was a metrology error. I have little faith in my hole measuring capability and none in the depth department. My next project will be targeted to that end. The outer axle was measured today at 0.7183. The dog gear was 0.7195 and the output gear was 0.7196. The clearance would be 0.0012, which is in the range of close running fits.

The clutch disk is a problem child. The current one is the third that I turned/milled. It is a deceptively simple object. The clutch boss on the outer axle measured at 0.9433 and the clutch disk bore at 0.949. This is 0.0057, which is much looser than it needs to be. I was targeting a free fit so that it would slide easily under load and got carried away. With such a loose fit, the outer edge of the clutch tilts and sometimes touches the wall of the dog gear recess and jams. I could turn/mill another clutch disk with a tighter bore, but my failure rate in that endeavor is high. I could also turn a new outer axle if I had the material, but I don't. The solution I think might be a simpler way is to mount the clutch disk on the arbor and take off 0.030 of its radius.

Any advice from the experts?


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## JimSchroeder (Mar 27, 2015)

Hello Larry, lets concentrate on one thing at a time.  The two counter rotating gears and the clutch disc are the heart of the entire assembly.  I have many hours of use on my unit and I have never adjusted the position since the initial installation.  That has been about a year and one half ago if I remember correctly.  I suspect that you may have a gear that has radial runout or the teeth have not been cut uniformly.  With the unit assembled and clamped in a vise you should be able easily rotate the input gear and shift between forward, reverse and neutral with no binding.  I believe you mentioned earlier that you had to shim the axle, did this perhaps create other problems?

  The dimensions of the axle, both diameter and length is very important for smooth shifting.  When you add up the length of the outer axle, the end washer, and the circlip you should have a few thousands of end clearance.  Probably 0.002 to 0.005 or there about.  Next pay attention to the diameter of the bronze bushing and the outer axle portion that the clutch disc rides on.  These must be very close, if the bronze bushing is larger in diameter than the outer axle the disc will catch on the lip.  You should have a very slight chamfer on the clutch disc bore, this will help the shifting.  Next the clearance on the disc inner diameter should be a few thousands, you do not want the disc to cant when shifting.  Even with your 0.005" clearance on the clutch disc if the shifting fork is flat and true it should shift smoothly.  

The occasional tic-tic of the disc hitting the pin is not a problem.  Next pay attention to the shifting fork.  This must be very flat, I milled mine from 3/16" flat stock.  I only milled the outline initially.  After the fork was finished and deburred I milled a very light recess (0.005-0.008) on both sides of the fork.  This recess was large enough that the clutch disk would fit inside of it.  The purpose of the recess is provide a little more tolerance for the dimensions of the gear stack and the detent position.

Start by making sure all of the gears are uniform have minimal runout.  Then focus on the tolerance in the gear stack, clutch and axle assemblies.  Then make sure the shifting fork moves without tipping to one side or the other.  The pressure on the detent should be very low, I used a portion of the spring from a ball point pen.

Without being able to see the unit my guess would be that the rotation of the unit is a result of gears binding and the shifting issues are in a large part due to the shifting fork not being square when shifting is taking place.

Keep after it and let me know how you are doing.  You are solving problems that other are likely to run into, your leading the pack so to speak.

Jim


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## Baithog (Mar 27, 2015)

It is back together aned seems to be functioning.

The gears are not perfectly concentric with their bores. It is a byproduct of not turning the mandrels between centers. I've always shied away from working between centers, but it aint all that bad and you get good concentricity, even if you have to swap the part end for end to do a shoulder. It sucks not having a lead screw reverse. I did the inner axle between centers and it is right on.  The concentricity error is in the neighborhood of 5mils. I didn't think that was the problem, and it turned out not to be. 

The noise got reduced a lot by adjusting the reverse idler position. The teeth were just grazing each other. I moved it 20 mils away from the forward dog gear. 

The end play is still there. I tried to make a 30 mil thick washer to tighten it up, but the mill just didn't like working with something that thin. I don't think the end play makes all that much difference, except to look bad.

The shift problem was a multi-problem. The clearance from the clutch to the dog gear recess was too small. I reduced the outer diameter of the clutch by 60mils. The clutch drive key was tight, so I did a little polishing to make it slide easier. I also chamfered the clutch bore and eased the edges of the bushing as much as I could with the dog pins in place.  The dog gear bushings are a tad too big. I can feel the clutch climb up on them. Reducing them would require the dog pins to be pressed out, so that will wait until I do version 2. 

It shifts right snappy and the body no longer moves around. I did discover that you have to be more careful tightening the gear train when doing frequent shifts in high gear. The shock tends to loosen things up.


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## Baithog (Mar 28, 2015)

Well, this a bit embarrassing. Especially for someone that did failure analysis and remediation for new processes. I remounted the shift linkage and it stopped shifting. Closer inspection showed that I hadn't rounded the top of the upper shift linkage enough and it was hitting the headstock. Previously , when I thought that I had clutch problems, I didn't... well I did have some problems, but they had nothing to do with shifting. Earlier, the shifting problems started right after I tightened up the upper shift lever pivot, but I was so engrossed with the shifting process that I didn't inspect the thing I just changed.


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## JimSchroeder (Mar 28, 2015)

Hello Larry, it sounds like you are making progress.  I presume the shifting issues have been taken care of.  How about the rotating problem, any new developments there?  One other point you mentioned milling a thin washer, I make all of my thrust washers (and others) by boring a bronze rod to the desired diameter, turn the outer diameter and then part it off.  I make washers down to about 0.015".  They may cup depending on the material but they work well.

Jim


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## Baithog (Mar 29, 2015)

Jim - There is no more rotation of the body when shifting. It shifts smartly, even at 700rpm. 

Next up is setting up the parts on the back of the lathe.

I didn't get much done today. The lawn needed mowing and I smoked a pastrami. The pastrami smoked for 12 hours, so I had to diddle with my little smoker on a regular basis.


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## Baithog (Mar 29, 2015)

I am back to work on the project again. The article calls for a 28 inch long flat to be milled on the trip rod. My mill has a maximum X travel of 18".  While trying to figure out how I was going to clamp and mill the flat, I got to wondering if I really needed 42 inches of control rod. So I did some measuring. I would presume that all G0602 lathes would be pretty close.
From the headstock end of the carriage stop to
end of ways - 32.25"
to outside of carriage stop at max travel - 23.25"
to outside of carriage stop at max travel with thread dial - 22.75"
to outside of carriage stop at max travel with tailstock installed 22.25"​From the headstock side of the carriage stop to the out side of trip linkage B - 10"
2 Shift blocks 1"
Throw length - 0.75"​I am thinking that I will seldom, if ever, remove the tailstock or the threading dial to cut threads at the far end of the lathe. I should be using 34.25" of rod, and that would leave 1.75" of rod for the trip rod bracket.

Does this make sense, Jim?


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## JimSchroeder (Apr 3, 2015)

Hello Larry, the length of the shift rod was determined by measuring the distance for the end plate (steel plate on the outside of headstock) to the end of the ways.  The reason for going to the end of the ways was to mount the supporting bracket using an existing hole.  To mill the flat I milled it in two steps, repositioning after the first cut.  

Jim


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## Baithog (Apr 4, 2015)

Thanks Jim. I hadn't considered using the chip shield mounting hole. I was coming from the direction of saving that 3 foot piece of drill rod for another project. I also want to be able to remove the chip shield without taking the trip mechanism apart. I have had the shield off a few times already to mess with the motor.  My belts seem to be the wrong size. Maybe one day I'll do a VFD.


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## markknx (Apr 4, 2015)

Baithog, Really nice work I was considering this mod and had been waiting for Jims article to show up in HSM I had seen it along with some of his other mods on YT. I am highly impressed with you progress rate. Keep up the good work and keep posting. I have saved Jims articles and now have your post to further guide me when I get the guts to attack this project.
Mark


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## markknx (Apr 4, 2015)

Jim, You may not know this but you help me a great deal when first started in this art. You always had good advice for my then new and scary Go602 lathe over on the group for that lathe. Things like the proper set up of change gears, Four bolt compound clamp and the like. A tip of the hat to you.
Mark


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## Baithog (Apr 4, 2015)

I have been moving right along on the project. I figured out that I could get away with using just one length of drill rod for the trip mechanism. So I put a 28" flat on one of the half inch drill rods, leaving an inch at the tailstock end round. That would be the part that rides in the support bushing. The bushings ended up being a problem. The only piece of Acetal in my box that was big enough was the stub left over from making the idler gears. I couldn't bring myself to throw away so much stock. A trip to the hardware store and I had a pair of 1/2" bronze flange bearings. They cost less than the shipping for some Acetal round stock, and I didn't have to wait a week to get them. The drill rod slid quite nicely once it had been deburred.

I didn't want to tie the trip mechanism tied to the splash guard. Remember my order tribulations in the initial post where I mistakenly ordered 6 one inch pieces of 2X3 aluminum instead of 1 six inch piece of 2X3 stock? One of those 1" pieces became the support  for the control and trip rods at the headstock end. The support for the tailstock end (which by the way is not called out in the materials list) was fabricated in 2 pieces. A piece of 2" X 1/4" aluminum angle acted as the stand-off from the lathe bed. It was mounted with 2, !/4-20 SHCS through slots. The slots allowed vertical adjustment of the tail stock end support. The top part, which carried the bushing, was made from a piece of 2"X1/4" aluminum flat stock. It was mounted to the stand-off with #10-24 SHCS through slots that allowed for horizontal adjustment. My suspicion was that the headstock support bushing was not bored absolutely parallel to the bed ways. It doesn't take much error over 3 feet to cause binding on close fit bushings. I was correct. 

The deviation from Jim's design meant that the trip linkage didn't fit as designed. I considered putting the linkage on the drive side of the control rod support, but belts and pulleys were in the way. To put it on the headstock side of the control rod support required an odd double offset shape to fit. I milled it from a 3 3/4" piece of 1" square CRS. I kept the length of the control rod arm as specified, but modified the length of the link to fit. It was interesting to turn the ferrules on the half disassembled lathe. The clutch mechanism drove the lead screw nicely.

The mechanism works in static and dynamic trial. I have the slot in the splash guard and the stop blocks to fabricate. I have a small micrometer head in the "might be useful some day" box. I wonder if that would be overkill for a fine adjuster?


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## JimSchroeder (Apr 4, 2015)

Very nice Larry.  Looks like you are on the final leg to threading Nirvana.  I used two shorter pieces of drill rod and used a coupler that is underneath the head stock to join them together.  If you have everything lined up correctly the effort needed to move from forward or reverse to neutral is very small, a few ounces.

Mark, start by making the gears, something to wet your appetite so to speak.  For most the making of gears is what they find intimidating.  Start with the Acetal gears, easy to machine and they will give you a good understanding of what is involved.  Once you finish the gears then make the dog clutch disc and axle.  Once that is done is your more than half way home.

Jim


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## Baithog (Apr 5, 2015)

I have spent the last 2 days trying to fabricate the hinge for the trip lever. I'd sure like to know how Jim made those half round sticky-up parts of the hinge. I tried doing a radius with my DRO, but that wasn't very successful. Tomorrow I will bite the bullet and buy a hinge from the hardware outlet. It won't look as pretty as one fabricated from billet, but it will at least work.

Since I'm a very impatient guy, I clamped a block of metal to the cross slide and tested the setup under power. IT WORKS!

The clutch mechanism has really quieted down. I had hoped that that would happen after a bit of run-in, and it was gratifying that it did. Currently the clutch makes some 'ding, ding. ding' noise after it releases, but I think that will go away once I make the detent grooves. I put a dial indicator on the bed to get an idea how consistent the trip was:
toward headstock      away
0.4942                        0.153
0.495                          0.153
0.494                          0.153
0.494                          0.1555
0.494                           0.159 

So tomorrow I will make new stop blocks and the hinged trip lever. Then it all comes apart to have a bth, visit the sandpaper bench, and get some paint. More pictures and video to follow.


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## markknx (Apr 5, 2015)

Pretty darn good going to the headstock, But it seems like you are losing something coming back. But it most likely is something seating in or a bur wearing of. Just that .006 in the last 2 runs would make me keep an eye out. Not A lot and on the back swing. I doubt it will be a big deal. Really nice job. can't wait for the video!
Mark


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## JimSchroeder (Apr 6, 2015)

Hello Larry, the objective is make a trip arm that is repeatable in that there is very little if any slack in the joint.  That is why I milled this from a solid piece.  I performed the rounding by clamping the part to my rotary table.  If you center the table and zero the dials or DRO's and then locate the part on the table using a center finder you will be able to mill the radius using a 0.125 end mill.  After centering everything then back the table off until you just start clipping the corners and then proceed in until you have finished the radius.  The idea hear is too end up with a trip arm that does not bind.  The holes for the pin are pre-drilled and are used to locate the part while on the table.  Repeatablility should be in the 5-10 thousands range.  Here are a couple of photos and a drawing to help clarify my comments.





I hope this helps.  Your work looks very good, I am anxious to hear your experiences when used for threading.

Jim


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## Baithog (Apr 13, 2015)

I do believe that I am done. The trip rod, linkage, blocks, and trip lever are installed. I painted some of the exposed parts with Grizzly supplied touch-up paint, and sprayed tractor paint on a few of the hidden parts. The chip shield is notched and installed, as is the change gear door.

Pictures of the completed setup.




A video was requested. I had to use my smart phone to shoot it. Holding the phone while operating the lathe is cumbersome, but you can get the idea. The file is huge, so moderators may need to remove it if space becomes a problem....... Well I guess not. It will not upload mpeg4 files.

As a consolation prize, this is the result of the machining that was in the video.


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## markknx (Apr 14, 2015)

nice job Larry! how is it working? seems to have gone well on the first part. You could always stick the video on youtube and just post the link here. Just a thought. thanks for sharing this build with us.
Mark


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## JimSchroeder (Apr 14, 2015)

Congratulations Larry, very nice.  Your next project should be a variable speed arrangement, variable speed coupled with the threading clutch puts you in Nirvana.  You can now use your threading dial as a paper weight, it no longer serves a purpose.

Jim


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## Baithog (Apr 14, 2015)

Thanks for doing all the heavy lifting for this project. The hardest part is the design.

Not sure if you saw my message yet, but don't do it!!! The clutch works fine in reverse. The trip mechanism does not. The results could be spectacular if you aren't quick on the E-stop button. I did it without thinking about the geometry of the linkage. I fortunately had my finger on the button.

For anyone else inclined to build this - *DO NOT USE THE TRIP MECHANISM WITH THE LATHE MOTOR IN REVERSE!*


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## NEL957 (Apr 26, 2015)

Larry
That project come from a book I believe it is from:I think this is the book, could you confirm that 
*Shop Wisdom of Philip Duclos*
* I think this is the book with this project in it, could you confirm that for me. *
*Thanks *
*Nelson Collar*


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## Baithog (Apr 26, 2015)

I don't know about that book. The idea of using a dog clutch has been done before. This version was designed by Jim for the Grizzly G0602 10X22 lathe. It is in the magazine 'Home Shop Machinist" in the January/February and May/June issues. As Jim says in the article, the clutch can be fit to other lathes with possibly some modifications.


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## NEL957 (Apr 27, 2015)

Larry
Thanks for replying, I seen it in one of the old Bedside Reader Collections  and do not know which one. At $42 a piece it hard to buy them all on my little budget. I have the drawings from Graham Meek Designs for the South Bend Lathe. Not the greatest with drawings and a little help would be nice to make it. 
Larry thanks for all.


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