# electrical for the PM1236



## MikeWi (Mar 16, 2013)

I'm getting the workshop ready for the lathe, and while I've done house wiring before, I haven't done any 220V circuits before and don't know what socket to get. :think1: 

Can someone post a pic or a drawing of what the plug looks like? :help:

thanks!


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## Tony Wells (Mar 16, 2013)

Probably most people wire them direct, without a plug, but if you want/need portability and have the lathe easily movable I'd use something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-2621-Locking-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B00002NARX   for the plug

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=2620-IG&section=40369&minisite=10251   for the receptacle.


You should be able to pick them up at Lowe's or Home Depot without a problem. Or something similar. Nothing special except the amperage and voltage rating. And you can always go higher, just not lower. I didn't look up the current demand for the machine, but if you do and find it less than the one I put up (30 amps) you could drop back a bit. Heavier is a little better for long life though.


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## MikeWi (Mar 16, 2013)

Tony Wells said:


> I didn't look up the current demand for the machine, but if you do and find it less than the one I put up (30 amps) you could drop back a bit. Heavier is a little better for long life though.


According to Matt it's 15a but the manufacturer suggests a 20a circuit.  There's two kinds of plugs that can be used for that amperage, hence the confusion, but if it doesn't have a plug in the first place, then it's easy.  Thanks!


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## tripletap3 (Mar 16, 2013)

The PM1236 doesn't come with a plug just bare wires. You will need a common 20amp 220 plug from your favorite hardware store. Looks just like a 110 but with one horizontal blade.


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## GaryK (Mar 16, 2013)

tripletap3 said:


> The PM1236 doesn't come with a plug just bare wires. You will need a common 20amp 220 plug from your favorite hardware store. Looks just like a 110 but with one horizontal blade.



That's the type I used for my lathe and mill.

Gary


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## MikeWi (Mar 16, 2013)

that's what I had thought, but the only outlets I could find at the store were 120v, so they could take the 20A style plug BUT they could also take a 110v (aside from the rating it's self).  After that, just 30A appliance and higher.  I'll just keep looking or just hardwire it with a lockout switch.  I want some way to turn off the power without going to the breaker.


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## darkzero (Mar 16, 2013)

MikeWi said:


> I want some way to turn off the power without going to the breaker.



I used SquareD manual motor starters for both the lathe & mill. Got them for $20 ea on ebay, $120 from Grainger. They're also available with pilot lights but the pilot light on the lathe, DROs, & work lights are good enough for me. Levitron also makes them.


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## MikeWi (Mar 17, 2013)

darkzero said:


> I used SquareD manual motor starters for both the lathe & mill. Got them for $20 ea on ebay, $120 from Grainger.


Thanks!  That looks perfect, I have a bid in on ebay.

One other question; Am I correct in assuming this is a "normal" single phase 220?  As in 2 hot, no neutral, 1 ground or does it require a neutral as well like the heavy appliances do?

Thanks for all the help, I'd like to have the prep work done before it arrives! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## darkzero (Mar 17, 2013)

No problem Mike.. Yes, single phase, 2 hot, 1 ground, no neutral.


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## Dr.Fiero (Mar 17, 2013)

Personally, I'd run 3 wire up to it, then if you decide to use a coolant pump (etc) at a later date, at least you'll have the 120 there as an option.   

For that matter, make sure you don't have any relays or contactors that use 120 already.

Rehashing the plug topic...  If you haven't already got one... Look at range plugs.  They're quite often very cheap (volume sales!), and you can get a plug with a pigtail, and a socket in a combo pack for less than the cost of just an outlet sometimes.

Other bonus is that the plugs usually got a 90* straight down cable to save space.


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## MikeWi (Mar 17, 2013)

Dr.Fiero said:


> For that matter, make sure you don't have any relays or contactors that use 120 already.


Thanks, I already have 110v outlets in the room, I just have to add the 220v.



Dr.Fiero said:


> Rehashing the plug topic...  If you haven't already got one... Look at range plugs.  They're quite often very cheap (volume sales!), and you can get a plug with a pigtail, and a socket in a combo pack for less than the cost of just an outlet sometimes. Other bonus is that the plugs usually got a 90* straight down cable to save space.



I've seen the very ones you're talking about, thanks!


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## Dr.Fiero (Mar 17, 2013)

What I meant was make sure there's no 120V relays inside the control box for the machine.  
Mine has a start/stop button setup that controls a set of contactors - and I'm pretty sure the solenoids are 120 powered (vs the 220 motor).

Of course, I have no idea what yours is.  I'm just saying, for the sake of 1 more wire, it's easier to do it now than adjust it later.


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## darkzero (Mar 17, 2013)

Dr.Fiero said:


> for the sake of 1 more wire, it's easier to do it now than adjust it later.



I agree. If I had to do it over again, I probably would have added the extra wire for my mill at least. But I'm maxed out in my power run (lathe, mill, & air compressor).

But for the PM1236, it doesn't require it. Work light & the coolant pump runs off the lathe. The worklight is 24V & I believe the pump is too but I forget on the pump, I don't use it.


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## MikeWi (Mar 17, 2013)

darkzero said:


> I agree. If I had to do it over again, I probably would have added the extra wire for my mill at least. But I'm maxed out in my power run (lathe, mill, & air compressor).
> 
> But for the PM1236, it doesn't require it. Work light & the coolant pump runs off the lathe. The worklight is 24V & I believe the pump is too but I forget on the pump, I don't use it.


As long as there's a reason I don't have a problem running the 3 wire cable.  I do intend to get the PM45 mill in a few months, so I'll go that way.


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