# I Scored Some Nice Tools Today



## Mark_f (Sep 3, 2016)

A friend of mine gave me some brand new Drills made by Cleveland Drill.


	

		
			
		

		
	
 There is a 9/16" , 11/16" , 3/4"

Another friend brought me a tool he did not know what it was. I offered him $100 for it , but he said " I would rather trade". I said "no problem ". I got all this without spend any money!




	

		
			
		

		
	
 It is a small dividing head. It fits my Burke mill perfectly. I can't find any markings as to the make.  It needs disassembled and cleaned.


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## silence dogood (Sep 3, 2016)

mark_f said:


> A friend of mine gave me some brand new Drills made by Cleveland Drill.
> View attachment 135162
> 
> 
> ...


 Mark.  After seeing your fine workmanship,  I can't wait to see what you will do with that dividing head.


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## tweinke (Sep 3, 2016)

Mark, from your writings on here I am sure you take good care of your friends and they also see fit to return to you as they can. That to me is the true definition of friendship! Keep up the good work.


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## brino (Sep 3, 2016)

Nice!
Congrats, Mark.

What was the trade?

Hopefully the insides are clean.

-brino


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## Ulma Doctor (Sep 3, 2016)

nice score Mark!!!
evaporust works great as does electrolytic rust removal!
i can't wait to see the cleaned up dividing head


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## hman (Sep 3, 2016)

Mark, you have some very nice friends.  And I'm sure you're a fantastic friend in return.  Cleveland is a great name for drills.


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## dgehricke (Sep 3, 2016)

Mark,
 Get thy a gallon of Evap-O-Rust for that dividing head,soak overnight and scotch brits the next day.As soon as you find another dividing head let me know.
It looks like an Ellis heres a link to google images < https://images.search.yahoo.com/sea...search.yahoo.com&ei=UTF-8&n=60&x=wrt&y=Search >
Regards
dgehricke


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## Mark_f (Sep 3, 2016)

brino said:


> Nice!
> Congrats, Mark.
> 
> What was the trade?
> ...


Actually he came out on the good end. I gave him one of my precision drill sharpener for the dividing head.

The insides are perfect. Actually, the dividing head may be new. It came from a high school shop where his dad was the teacher and he had no idea what this was so it just laid on a shelf for many years. Upon retirement, his dad kept the dividing head ( along with some other stuff ) and it laid in his basement for years. I cannot see ANY marks or any wear on the worm set or bearing surfaces. I truly think this piece is new and has never been used.


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## Mark_f (Sep 3, 2016)

dgehricke said:


> Mark,
> Get thy a gallon of Evap-O-Rust for that dividing head,soak overnight and scotch brits the next day.As soon as you find another dividing head let me know.
> It looks like an Ellis heres a link to google images < https://images.search.yahoo.com/sea...search.yahoo.com&ei=UTF-8&n=60&x=wrt&y=Search >
> Regards
> dgehricke


I have disassembled the unit and washed it with brake cleaner. Everything washed up really nice. The only rust of significance is on the hole plate. Everything else is just heavy surface rust and polished up nicely.  There is a name on the housing end. I will post some pics tomorrow.


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## Bob Korves (Sep 4, 2016)

Nice score on the dividing head.  I have a very similar one with no maker's mark on it.


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## Billh50 (Sep 4, 2016)

Very nice score Mark ! 


Do your friends need any more friends ?


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## Mark_f (Sep 4, 2016)

The end plate shows the maker's mark once cleaned up.



	

		
			
		

		
	
 I don't believe these gears have ever been turned. Not a scratch on them anywhere. The base doesn't have any scratches at the mounting holes, like it has never been bolted down. The unmarked paint is still there.  The shop teacher didn't know what this was so it laid in the high school shop for years, then his basement for more years. ( doesn't say much for him being a metal shop teacher).



	

		
			
		

		
	
 I washed up all the parts and now will polish, paint , and reassemble.


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## 4GSR (Sep 4, 2016)

The Gulledge Machine works could be the original name to the Ellis brand before a name change.  Go back and see if the guy has the other two index plates hidden down in his basement.  May have gotten over looked when cleaning out.  Just a thought.  Very nice find you have there!!!!


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## Mark_f (Sep 4, 2016)

4gsr said:


> The Gulledge Machine works could be the original name to the Ellis brand before a name change.  Go back and see if the guy has the other two index plates hidden down in his basement.  May have gotten over looked when cleaning out.  Just a thought.  Very nice find you have there!!!!



Unfortunately there is only the one plate , but I can make any I need.


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## Mark_f (Sep 4, 2016)

I cleaned everything and painted the base and body. It works smooth and is great.


	

		
			
		

		
	
 There are some details yet. I have to put the spindle lock in and recondition the sector arms. I also have to make a new pin for the spring loaded  pin the locates the plate.



	

		
			
		

		
	
 I made a new nut for the rear of the spindle as it was missing. I machined a split nut that secures with a 6-32 SHCS. This lets me set the clearance on the spindle for smooth operation with no end play. The main part is done. It is details now.


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## 4GSR (Sep 4, 2016)

Mark,

Someone just sold a Mint Ellis dividing head over on another forum.  It had all of three plates, a six-jaw Buck chuck, 3C collet setup plus a bunch of collets and original tailstock.  Sold for $400!


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## Mark_f (Sep 5, 2016)

4gsr said:


> Mark,
> 
> Someone just sold a Mint Ellis dividing head over on another forum.  It had all of three plates, a six-jaw Buck chuck, 3C collet setup plus a bunch of collets and original tailstock.  Sold for $400!


Wow! A lot of money but worth it.

 I am figuring out the taper in the spindle. I think it is a #4 morse taper. A number 3 fits really loose. I will mak a ER 40 holder for mine. The spindle thread is 1 3/4-8. All my stuff is      1 1/2-8 . I have two dividing heads now. This one and the one I built. This one is smaller than the one I built.


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## DoogieB (Sep 5, 2016)

According to the docs online, if it's like an Ellis head it might have a #9 B&S taper.


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## Mark_f (Sep 5, 2016)

DoogieB said:


> According to the docs online, if it's like an Ellis head it might have a #9 B&S taper.


Although it is not an Ellis, it is very similar to one. I checked and it does have a B&S  #9 taper


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## Mark_f (Sep 5, 2016)

I turned a B&S 9 taper on some stock to make a 3C collet adapter.


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## chips&more (Sep 5, 2016)

4gsr said:


> Mark,
> 
> Someone just sold a Mint Ellis dividing head over on another forum.  It had all of three plates, a six-jaw Buck chuck, 3C collet setup plus a bunch of collets and original tailstock.  Sold for $400!


IMHO that was a bargain! The Buck chuck alone is worth big bucks.


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## Subwayrocket (Sep 6, 2016)

mark_f said:


> I cleaned everything and painted the base and body. It works smooth and is great.
> QUOTE]
> There's nothing more satisfying than taking something that's gona rust away or end up in a scrap yard ....spend some time on it, make it look like new again and give it a new life.   Looks great Mark  ! ! !


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## FLguy (Sep 6, 2016)

I marvel at how quickly and very professionally you get some thing done!


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## Mark_f (Sep 6, 2016)

FLguy said:


> I marvel at how quickly and very professionally you get some thing done!


Oh .... I still have a little more to do. The dividing head is basically done. I still have the sector arms to clean up and the plate to clean up.  I am making a 3c collet adapter and a drive dog plate. I also have to make the spring loaded index pin. The original is not in great shape. But it will be done soon.


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## Mark_f (Sep 7, 2016)

One accessory that is commonly needed on a dividing head is a dog drive bar that will accept a center. I decided to make one today. I turned a B&S #9 taper on a piece of cold roll bar stock. This is a copy of one of my collets.


	

		
			
		

		
	
 You can see the taper is 4" long. The front 2" are to size to fit the spindle . The rear 2" are .005" under size. This allows the front portion of the collet to provide the register. There is no need for a 4" register surface. This also makes it easier to make because my tail stock travel is 2 1/8".  The front nose in front of the 1 1/2" diameter collar is exactly 1" in diameter. The cross bar with the notches in the outer ends will press on here to provide the ability to turn a drive dog.



	

		
			
		

		
	
 The rear of the piece is drilled and tapped 1/2"-13 for the drawbar. A 7/16" hole is drilled all the way through to allow a bar to knock out a center .



	

		
			
		

		
	
 The compound is set to the angle for a number 2 morse taper. A hole slightly smaller than the small end of the morse taper was drilled 3" deep. Then a rough taper is turned to about .005" to .010" under finish size.



	

		
			
		

		
	
 A # 2 morse taper roughing reamer was used to get the taper to size. You will notice the reamer is turned by hand. These are HAND reamers. They cannot be run under power because they may dig in and something will bust. It only took about five minutes to hand ream the taper to size.


	

		
			
		

		
	
 Next a finish reamer is used ( BY HAND) to polish the taper. This only takes a couple minutes, you are only polishing the finish , not changing the size.


	

		
			
		

		
	
 This is the finished #2 morse taper. The reamer gave a very smooth finish.



	

		
			
		

		
	
 This is the piece with a dead center and in the dividing head. Next I will make a draw bar and the cross bar for the drive dog.



	

		
			
		

		
	
 Now, a little bit about the reamers. Yes, they are Chinese and they work excellent when used properly. I believe the cost of the pair of reamers was about $13 on eBay.

I have heard guys trying to ream a morse taper and having a nightmare doing it. They are doing it wrong. These are hand reamers and you cannot run them in a straight hole because they will dig in and jam or break. You must turn a proper taper and ream it to size. The reamer has full cutting edge contact in the tapered hole and will not jam when you turn it. Also DO NOT try to turn it backwards to remove the reamer. It will jam and leave marks in your finish. To remove the reamer , simply pull it out.

It only took me 5 to 10 minutes to finish the bored hole to a perfect number 2 morse taper.


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## Mark_f (Sep 8, 2016)

I finished my MT 2 adapter. This will allow me to use my MT 2 tooling in this dividing head. I can put a dead center in it and with a cross bar use a drive dog. I can use my drill chuck or any other MT 2 tool. I made a draw bar with a fluted aluminum knob.






	

		
			
		

		
	
 It works great. You can also see the 3C collet adapter. I still have to make a draw bar for it. 
Next is recondition the sector arms and the hole plate.


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## Whyemier (Sep 9, 2016)

Since no one else said it:  Great score!  The one I've been hoping to make.  DANG!!


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## Mark_f (Sep 10, 2016)

The little dividing head is now complete. It came out perfect.




I need to start making some wood cases for my "precision" tooling.


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