# Need to extend 220 line



## Blackhawk (Aug 9, 2013)

Rebuilding a hot tub and ordered a spa pack from spa guts. Definatly  not a drop in but close. Need to extend electrical 12 inches, not solid core wire, and electrician wants from 2 to 4 hundred. Any suggestions on how to do it

lanham


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## marwynne (Aug 9, 2013)

Put a splice box on the end of the wire.   Make a good connection using split bolt connectors and tape with rubber tape and then 3m 33+.
Use the same type and wire size.  Do not go smaller.   Should not cost 10 dollars.  

x Electrician Retired. 

Marwynne.


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## Tony Wells (Aug 9, 2013)

Definitely in a box, preferably something safe around water if it is on the tub end, with a good gasket. Here, those split bolts have earned a trade name, Kearney, I believe one of the manufacturers. So if you have to go to a supply house, they may know them as that also. And no offense to Marwynne, but I'd use Super 88. :whistle:


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## Kennyd (Aug 9, 2013)

How far is the total run?
Is it in conduit?
What size wire?
What kind of wire is it (copper, AL)

If it was less than 50' or so, and in conduit I would probably just run a new line. Splices should be considered a last resort IMHO. 
If it's in conduit, maybe you can pull the cable out of the feeder panel so the other end reaches comfortably, the add the splice box near the panel so you dont have a splice/box at the hot tub.


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## DaveD (Aug 10, 2013)

You can get everything you need, including the split bolts at your local Borg.
Sort of a simple PITA job as long as you are comfortable doing electrical work.

Answering the previously asked questions along with a few pictures of the current situation and the new spa wiring will go a long way in getting a more specific answer you can feel comfortable executing.

The estimate you got doesn't surprise me. Figuring they probably get $75/hour and they uplift material costs by 100%.


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## marwynne (Aug 10, 2013)

Tommy Wells , you sound like a retired electrician ?    If so where did you work .  I called them Kearneys until I was corrected by a young electrician .  He said that Kearney was a brand name and I should call them split bolt connectors.  hahah  That was 10 years ago just before I retired.   There is 1 mill difference in the 33 and the 88 by 3m.   I used the 33 because it stretched better over the rubber and added one layer.   Either of them would work at the voltage level.  The most important was using the rubber tape over the Kearney.  It will vulcanize and keep any water and stray chlorine out of the splice.

See ya

Marwynne)


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## Blackhawk (Aug 11, 2013)

Here is what I am dealing with, my guess is  after it comes out of the box it's maybe 10 feet to the spa


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## Blackhawk (Aug 11, 2013)

Quick update,

was not able to pull it because of the tape, cut it off and now I can pull it .

what wire do you suggest I replace it with?

thanks 
lanham


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## Tony Wells (Aug 11, 2013)

If the current demands are the same as the old one, and that is the correct wire size, then simply look at the markings on that wire to see what gauge it is and since you pulled it out, get a good measurement for length. Look up "ampacity" charts to make sure the wire is correct. The longer the run, the larger the wire will need to be to avoid unacceptable voltage drop. Adding a foot shouldn't change things, provided it was right to begin with. 

If you can't find any charts, tell us the amperage requirement for the unit, and I'm sure there are a few of us with that information. I hope that if you pulled all of the wire out, you pulled in something to pull the new wire in with, or at least have a fish tape long enough to reach. 

That wire appears to be type THHN, a common wire available at Lowe's and Home Depot. If you are going to a supply house anyway, then you might want to check prices and see what they get for it. Some don't mind "retail" customers, some do. Copper isn't cheap, so don't guess at the length. A little short and you get to buy it again. But, no need to go crazy and buy a spool either, unless you need it for the shop.:thinking:

Pulling that wire any real distance won't be all that easy, as it can be a bit stiff, and after unspooling can be a little prone to tangle laying out. Some people tape it into a bundle, but you won't see that done much by electricians. Get some wire lube. It will make a world of difference, especially if the conduit is at all tight, or there are bends. It will not only make it easy to pull, but protect the wire from scraping and chafing in any bends by reducing the tension required to pull. Makes things hard to get a grip on though, so don't get it all over your hands. Washes off the hands easily, and can be left on the wire. Best to get someone to help guide the wire into the conduit on the end you are feeding into. Pull all 4 at one time. That means careful cutting to length.


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## icore3user (Aug 11, 2013)

what amperage will be needed for the spa guts, usually there will be a nameplate of the control box stating max breaker size, that's how you figure you wire size,
BTW your disconnect should be a new  GFCI disconnect unless you have a 2 pole GFCI breaker feeding the spa ( they sell them at bog box store for spas ) by code. Most spas are 50 amps ( since it's the combination of the motor plus heater elements )
and thus require #6 wire, and #6 ground require by manufacturer / code. You also need a convenience  out ( GFCI ) no closer than 5 feet but max 10 feet from the unit. You should also extend the broken pipe  ( via seal tight ) into the spa and not have the wires free air as they should be protected until they enter the wiring compartment.

- Al


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## Tony Wells (Aug 11, 2013)

marwynne said:


> Tommy Wells , you sound like a retired electrician ?    If so where did you work .  I called them Kearneys until I was corrected by a young electrician .  He said that Kearney was a brand name and I should call them split bolt connectors.  hahah  That was 10 years ago just before I retired.   There is 1 mill difference in the 33 and the 88 by 3m.   I used the 33 because it stretched better over the rubber and added one layer.   Either of them would work at the voltage level.  The most important was using the rubber tape over the Kearney.  It will vulcanize and keep any water and stray chlorine out of the splice.
> 
> See ya
> 
> Marwynne)



Marwynne,
 no, not a retired electrician, but have worked the work along with a lot of other things over the years. I am also on a volunteer construction crew where I do it also, on occasion (3-4 times a year). I've done several complete shops where it was legal outside city limits here where all you have to do is satisfy the insurance company and the utility. Never had a problem there. I've just always called them Kearneys. Learned from some old-school guys who were electricians, and good friends. Those still with us I still work with sometimes.

I was only ribbing about the 33 vs 88. I don't use the 88 unless there is good reason. Some of my "helpers" over the years have used it out of my stock for taping a fish. Burns me up, that stuff isn't cheap tape. I keep cheap tape ($.39/roll) for that. I too use rubber tape under splices. Flip it after the first wrap too.


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## icore3user (Aug 11, 2013)

I use 3m temflex for pulling, the good stuff for split bolts, rubber and cambric tape ( cambric, rubber, then electrical tape ), but sometimes I just use Polaris connectors if the need arises.

- Al


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