# Making a longer chuck key



## WobblyHand (Jan 14, 2020)

The chuck key that comes with my mini-lathe is just long enough to do the job, but not long enough to be convenient.  By not long enough, I often bust my knuckles, or manage to hit the dial indicator because the handles are not far enough away from the chuck.  So I'd like to change that.  Handles could be a little longer, but, that's not as important as increasing the body length.  I have 2 chucks, a 3J and a 4J.  The keys are annoyingly too short.

I have some O1 steel in 0.625" diameter for the key and 0.3425" diameter for the handle.  I would turn down the end of the body for the key so that the diameter is about sqrt(2)*key width.  Not sure how to make the key square.  So far, the only idea I have come up with is a collet in a square collet block to grab the stock. That way, one could then just put the collet block in a vise and file the section.  Then rotate the block 90 degrees and file again, etc.  Is there a better approach?  Don't own any collets, nor a collet block, so I'd like to know if there is a better way, so I can minimize my cost, and maximize the likelihood of two properly fitting chuck keys.

Should I attempt to harden the square key afterwards?  They are not that big, only about 0.25" across the flats, for one of them and about 0.3" for the other.


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## brino (Jan 14, 2020)

Okay, so without a mill and without a collet block.......

Could you use the 4-jaw chuck itself for indexing?

Maybe
i) in the lathe, centre the stock in the 4-jaw chuck
ii) do any required reduction in the bar diameter
iii) remove the chuck from the lathe (with the bar still held tight)
iv) put the bar in the bench vise jaws aligning the sides of two opposite horizontal lathe-chuck jaws with the tops of the bench vise jaws
v) file away
vi) rotate in the bench vise for the four flats
Viola!

-brino

I noticed when making mine here: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/just-a-simple-lathe-chuck-key.81492/
that I also had to remove the corners of the square end. The lathe chuck pinion holes did not have square corners.

-brino


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## ErichKeane (Jan 14, 2020)

You could 'face' it square, but just on the bottom.  Put it in the 4 jaw perpendicular to how it usually goes (like this: http://www.mini-lathe.org.uk/turning-square-part-mini-lathe.shtml) and turn 'face' a side flat.  Rotate 90 degrees, repeat,etc.


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## WobblyHand (Jan 14, 2020)

That's an interesting perspective.  Might be interesting balancing the chuck and trying to file.  I'll look into it.

I was expecting someone to try to spend some of my money.  You're not trying hard enough   I'm not adverse to spending some cash on the collet blocks.  I just wasn't sure it would work.


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## WobblyHand (Jan 14, 2020)

ErichKeane said:


> You could 'face' it square, but just on the bottom.  Put it in the 4 jaw perpendicular to how it usually goes (like this: http://www.mini-lathe.org.uk/turning-square-part-mini-lathe.shtml) and turn 'face' a side flat.  Rotate 90 degrees, repeat,etc.


I've seen that before.  Was hoping I could do that squaring on something.  I'll think about it again.  Might be possible...  The chuck size would limit the length of the key.  More to ponder.


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## brino (Jan 14, 2020)

.....following along with @ErichKeane 's great idea, if the shank is too long to be held perpendicular in the chuck, just square a small block using his method and then press it into a hole on the end of the chuck key handle.
(yep, square peg and round hole.....that's the kinda guy I am)



WobblyHand said:


> I was expecting someone to try to spend some of my money. You're not trying hard enough



Sorry to let you down ...... hopefully they don't take away my membership for not upholding the values of the site!

-brino


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## ErichKeane (Jan 14, 2020)

brino said:


> .....following along with @ErichKeane 's great idea, if the shank is too long to be held perpendicular in the chuck, just square a small block using his method and then press it into a hole on the end of the chuck key handle.
> 
> -brino



Thats a really good idea... no reason it has to be one piece!  You could always just do a theaded joint and red loctite it.


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## brino (Jan 14, 2020)

ErichKeane said:


> You could always just do a theaded joint and red loctite it.



Great Idea!

To me that's what makes this site so useful.

Three of us across North America just had a brain storming session (a kinda white board session, but with typing) and came to an elegant solution.

I guess we have to find another project for @WobblyHand that requires the collet block and collets though......

-brino


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## darkzero (Jan 14, 2020)

brino said:


> Sorry to let you down ...... hopefully they don't take away my membership for not upholding the values of the site!



Ooh, you're sooo getting an infraction!


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## mikey (Jan 15, 2020)

WobblyHand said:


> I was expecting someone to try to spend some of my money.  You're not trying hard enough   I'm not adverse to spending some cash on the collet blocks.  I just wasn't sure it would work.



These guys are just trying to be helpful. I, on the other hand, am going to tease you about being "mill-less". I am going to try to spend your money!

If you buy a mill, hair will suddenly grow on your chest and maybe even the top of your head ... you will be a manly-man!!! When other mill-less guys have issues, you can step up and speak with pity and disdain. You may not ever make parts for NASA but you can tell yourself you could if you wanted to.  Heck, with a mill and a collet block, that wrench is 10 minutes away from being done and if that doesn't make you puff up your chest, I don't know what will. 

I fully expect @darkzero and @higgite to back me up on this. We help each other spend the other guy's money and we are hereby including you!


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## higgite (Jan 15, 2020)

Wobbly,

Everything Mike said is true. Trust me. Would I lie to you?

First, at a minimum, you need collet blocks. Note I said blocks, plural, because as sure as the sun rises in the… uh… East, yeah, the East... you will need to cut a hexagon shape next week and having only a square block when you need a hexagonal one can lead to severe mental anguish and heavy substance abuse. It’s science.

As for the actual productive part of your endeavor, you can do as already mentioned, put the round stock in the square collet block and put the collet block in the vise and file a significant portion of your life away. BUT, as all us veteran hobby machinists know from minutes of past experience, files are only for knocking burrs off the edge of milled chunks of metal. They aren’t for labor intensive tasks such as filing said pieces of metal down to size. For that, as Mike so subtly hinted, the vise holding the collet block should be firmly attached to a mill. Preferably a humongous mill that takes up at least half of your shop space, but at minimum, a bench mill that takes at least two people and/or an engine hoist to lift into place. You definitely have a project that requires you to purchase said mill. Trust me. More science. Note I didn’t say “justifies” a mill, I said “requires” a mill. Justification is for wimps. All us manly-men operate on the requirement principle, no justification needed. Sort of like the "because it's there" philosophy.

Now that that is settled, after you get your new mill (and you know you will) get back to us and we will gleefully help you spend more of your money on tooling than you ever imagined. No, no… no need to thank us. We’re here to help.

Has anybody mentioned a rotary table, yet?

Tom


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## RobertB (Jan 15, 2020)

I would clamp the rod to my tool post and put and end mill in the lathe chuck.

(I'm lying, I would buy the mill, but you could do it that way   )


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## WobblyHand (Jan 15, 2020)

mikey said:


> These guys are just trying to be helpful. I, on the other hand, am going to tease you about being "mill-less". I am going to try to spend your money!



Ok, that's more like it  

Seriously, I'm going to have to wait a bit on a mill.  The will is there... the cash is not.  Been out of a job for a spell, so I've got to keep expenditures down for a while.  Having a mill has been mentioned a few times to my wife.  With me saying that I can't justify it right now.



higgite said:


> As for the actual productive part of your endeavor, you can do as already mentioned, put the round stock in the square collet block and put the collet block in the vise and file a significant portion of your life away. BUT, as all us veteran hobby machinists know from minutes of past experience, files are only for knocking burrs off the edge of milled chunks of metal. They aren’t for labor intensive tasks such as filing said pieces of metal down to size.


Hogging out metal with files does test one's patience!  Apparently patience is in short supply on this board.  Not really sure how on earth one can file the flats flat (4 times).  Collets or not.  No doubt this would be easier on a mill.  

I'm going to play around with the 4 Jaw to see if I can make a decent small key insert.  It's not obvious to me how to guarantee the angles are 90 degrees with a small piece of stock that is smaller than the chuck spindle hole.  Not sure what surface one could reference.


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## ErichKeane (Jan 15, 2020)

WobblyHand said:


> I'm going to play around with the 4 Jaw to see if I can make a decent small key insert.  It's not obvious to me how to guarantee the angles are 90 degrees with a small piece of stock that is smaller than the chuck spindle hole.  Not sure what surface one could reference.



Place a parallel behind your piece and square it up to the face.  For the 0- degree angles, you should be able to index against your chuck jaws.


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## Titanium Knurler (Jan 15, 2020)

WobblyHand,  I feel your pain regarding being mill-less.  I  went for years without a mill and so also had to make do as you are.  I used my old Craftstman drill press as a poor man's mill.   If you have a drill press, a cross slide vice and a square collet chuck, buy yourself your first mill and have at it.  You probably won't get a nice finish but I think  you will at least have the faces square and you can touch them up with a file if needed.


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## mikey (Jan 15, 2020)

Once upon a time, filing rests for the lathe were popular. Search for "filing rest". Heminway kits makes one so you can get the idea.

You can also just find some keystock and epoxy it into the end of a rod, then stick a handle through the rod and you're done. 

Someday, when things are better, buy a mill. There is no rush but know that we are going to rib you about it from time to time!


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## WobblyHand (Jan 15, 2020)

I don't mind the ribbing.  Seems to be in good fun.

That filing rest looks interesting.  Can't tell if it is an assemble it yourself, or a here's some raw stock, fabricate all the parts and put it together.  At 31 pounds Sterling, ($42) it isn't that expensive.  However, $42 is the price of a hex & square collet block with nuts and wrench.

So far @brino 's  suggestion of holding the chuck in a vise is winning.  I tried it.  I cringed doing it, but it would work, as long as I was consistent.  I'll try squaring off some stock as well.  Since it's so small, there isn't much for the chuck to grip.  A 1" piece would be no problem.  A 0.25" piece doesn't have much to hold onto.  I'll try a practice piece or two for  the giggles.  Probably learn something along the way!


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## mikey (Jan 15, 2020)

higgite said:


> Wobbly,
> 
> Everything Mike said is true. Trust me. Would I lie to you?
> 
> ...



Tom, you crack me up! Trust me ... it's science ...


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## David S (Jan 15, 2020)

I don't want to discourage you from buying a mill.  However before I had a mill I made a file guide for my lathe.  My bull gear has 60 index detents so I can index the spindle at 90 degrees.

First pic shows the first attempt and the third shows the addition of some spring steel if I don't have a file with a safe edge.





Set the depth of the flat with the tool holder height adjustment.

David


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## WobblyHand (Jan 15, 2020)

David S said:


> I don't want to discourage you from buying a mill.  However before I had a mill I made a file guide for my lathe.  My bull gear has 60 index detents so I can index the spindle at 90 degrees.
> 
> First pic shows the first attempt and the third shows the addition of some spring steel if I don't have a file with a safe edge.
> View attachment 310738
> ...


  You aren't discouraging me!

That's really clever.  I'm amazed at the enginuity of our board members.  Need to go off scrounging bits and pieces of stock...


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## WobblyHand (Jan 17, 2020)

After thinking about this a bit, I decided to just start doing something.  So what if it's not perfect.  I mean, it's just a tool to make things easier for me.

I turned the O1 body to size.  Drilled the hole for the set screw.  Then I got ready to drill the cross diameter hole for the handle.  Ran into trouble.  Seems to have melted my drills.  Yes, I used cutting oil.  And a smaller pilot drill.  The pilot drill literally made sparks.  I was surprised - never seen that before.  Withdrew the drill and found it had rounded over the edge.  I think the O1 got harder due to the set screw drilling.  Now none of my HSS drills will finish the hole.  The bits won't cut.  

So what kind of drill bit should I get?  Is cobalt good enough?  Or do I need to get a couple of solid carbide drills?  End size hole is to fit 0.3438" O1 rod.


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## brino (Jan 17, 2020)

Do you have the means to anneal it again? (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(metallurgy))
Heat and then cool slowly. I have an old tool box filled with wood fire ashes that a bury things in and leave them overnight.
-brino


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## WobblyHand (Jan 17, 2020)

I have both a plumber's acetylene air torch and an oxy-acetylene rig, so heat is not a problem.  The acetylene air torch will probably be good enough.  I have melted copper (1984F) with that torch before.  I could heat the O1 inside of a makeshift oven made from firebrick.  O1 steel needs to be annealed at 1150F.   Supposedly, 1200F steel is a dull red.  That shouldn't be too difficult.  Might do this tomorrow.  Have to drag in the small torch and a bunch of really cold firebrick.  It's been pretty chilly lately.

Sort of surprised that the O1 hardened up like that.  Can cobalt drills go through hardened O1?  How about carbide?


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## WobblyHand (Jan 18, 2020)

Umm, a thread is useless without pictures so, this is what I have so far.


I center drilled the large end and drilled for a 1/4-20 set screw.  This put some heat into the part.  Then when I side drilled the hole, nothing drilled well.  Well, have to go outside to get the fire bricks before it starts to snow tonight.  I will heat the large end and let it cool slowly.  The center section is 0.500" should I decide to buy some collets.  However, I think I'll just put the 4J in my vise and have at it with a file.


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## WobblyHand (Jan 18, 2020)

Waited too long, it's snowing!  Went outside, found 10 fire bricks and the torch.  I'll wait a bit for the bricks and the acetylene tank to warm a bit. The bricks were 16F (around -9C) when I brought them inside.  I'll build a little brick oven to anneal this tool.  Certainly not going to let a little bit of hard steel get in my way...


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## WobblyHand (Jan 18, 2020)

Deed is done.  Baked the tool at 1200F, give or take.  Picture prior to _torching_.  Got the 0.625" diameter section up to a dull red. Closed up the brick oven and letting it cool down now.  Kind of easy, save for kneeling down onto the concrete floor.  Tomorrow we'll see how soft it is.  Might have to do it again.


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## DavidR8 (Jan 18, 2020)

Is it possible to anneal using a propane torch or is oxy-acetylene necessary?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## WobblyHand (Jan 18, 2020)

Might be ok, with propane, if you have a large enough tip and enough patience.  Better if you use MAPP gas, or acetylene.

I used just a plumber's acetylene air torch, not my oxy/acetylene rig.  The oxy/ace is too big for me to take to the basement!  It's out in an unheated garage.  No fun in that!  The plumbers torch had a tip of about 1/4" ID.  It uses atmospheric air and acetylene.  It took about 4 minutes to get to dull red.  That's because I was heating a good chunk of steel and some of the fire brick beneath it. Oxy/acetylene would have taken about half that time.  At 4 minutes of heating, with oxy, I might have melted the steel.


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## Bi11Hudson (Jan 19, 2020)

Just to throw my 2 cents worth in, actually a quarter now. Inflation, you know~~~~~

I have a couple of chucks from Craftsman. I don't think they're C'man brand, just came with the lathes when I aqcquired them. They need 1/4 inch chuck keys, which _didn't_ come with the machine. So I used a "T" handle from a 1/4 socket set with a 3 inch extension.

Now, for the larger sized one, if I had to deal with the situation, I would use a piece of key stock. Perhaps ground down a tad for a metric chuck. Worst case, bent like an Allen wrench. Best case, let into a bored piece and brazed, perhaps with a sliding "T" handle if I'm feeling ambitious.

It isn't always a matter of throwing money at the problem. If I need to spend money, it gets spent. For me and the way I think, it's more a matter of doing something with almost nothing. As to throwing money, well, I have a couple of lathes, a vertical mill, a horizontal mill, a shaper, ad infinitum ad nauseum. Granted, they are small machines. With a wood framed structure there's only so much weight it will hold. And too, I do small work. But, the tooling is located in three different structures, there's a lot more weight in tooling than in the machines.

Oxy, acet, and the HHO torch are *NOT* stored in the wooden structures. Nobody but a fool would put an Oxy/Acet rig in the basement, even with a concrete floor above. The HHO torch is used inside, but well ventilated. I do have a plumber's torch but it isn't used and isn't connected to anything. Nor is the plumber's lead pot. They run on propane, which is also stored outside.

.


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## Bi11Hudson (Jan 19, 2020)

DavidR8 said:


> Is it possible to anneal using a propane torch or is oxy-acetylene necessary?
> .


.
In the first place, different metals have different annealing temperature. On some, heating in the kitchen stove oven and soaking for a while will do. It all depends on mass, interpreted as size, as to the amount of heat needed. For a large piece, like an entire lathe bed, I think an Acet rig would do the job _faster_.

You would want to get the heat in faster than it would air cool. On smaller stuff like tooling, the kitchen oven would suffice. In between, a propane torch or an HHO torch can harden. If they get hot enough to harden, they surely get hot enough to anneal. To harden, you want it a medium red. To anneal, you want it a light "straw"  color.


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## WobblyHand (Jan 19, 2020)

Bi11Hudson said:


> Oxy, acet, and the HHO torch are *NOT* stored in the wooden structures. Nobody but a fool would put an Oxy/Acet rig in the basement, even with a concrete floor above.


I'll take that as a general warning for people "watching along", rather than a personal admonishment.  I've done numerous minor foolish things in my life, but I'm not a fool. 

I would never use oxy/acet in the basement.  Way too many things can go wrong: from tipping the gas tanks, getting the tanks downstairs, to just plain fire hazard issues.  I have full size tanks for my oxy rig.  It's unwieldy.  Using a plumbers torch, well that's different.  I have a  B-tank, which is transportable by hand.  There is an 8 foot hose between the tank and the torch.  Flame size is smaller, and less hot.  Sure you can burn your house down, especially if you have to solder pipes inside a wall.  Which I have had to do.  (I watched and learned from a professional plumber.)  You have to use common sense and take several precautions.  Like using fire proof shields, having a water sprayer, and a fire extinguisher at hand.  Normally, the plumbers torch is kept out of the house.

Using a plumbers acetylene torch in a _non-confined_ space is fine, with a relatively small tip.  Heating a chunk of steel that's sitting in a fire brick enclosure on a concrete floor is about as safe as you can be with fire.  The cone of the flame was only 1/2" long and the rest of the flame was entirely inside the fire brick enclosure.  The heating time was a whopping 4 minutes, no worry about using up all the oxygen.  Fire precautions were taken.  Life is risky, machining is certainly risky.  So is fire.  If one does the right things, you can minimize the risk and accomplish your goals.

Now, as for making things a different way - that's ok.  It's why I am on this forum, to interact and learn new things.  I thought about an insert.  Generally, I don't like two piece units.  My experience is that the pieces have an inexplicable desire to become unattached.  _*Brazing an insert is a good idea*_.  Thanks for mentioning it.  (Have the torch!)  If this current project goes further south, I may take that approach.  I'll want to put in something a bit more sturdy than keystock.  The keystock I have is kind of soft. Not sure if one can heat treat the keystock to toughen it, just haven't researched it yet.


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## WobblyHand (Jan 19, 2020)

FYI, this is the flame I was talking about.  The torch is a Prest-o-Lite.  I got it from my Grandfather.  Apparently one can still get a complete (clone) setup on the order of $120, including the regulator.  Prestolite is now owned by ESAB, no idea what an actual Prest-o-Lite system costs.  You need to supply the acetylene tank.  Once you have used a system like this, you will never go back to a Bernzomatic burner directly mounted on a small propane bottle.  This flame is much hotter (than propane), and helps you get work done significantly faster.  You can use the torch in any position.  The next paragraph is really important.

*Acetylene requires proper handling, if you are going to use it, you should read about it, and follow the recommended instructions.  Failure to follow the instructions could result in serious injury or death.*  This includes always keeping the tank upright, and not using the acetylene at too high a rate for the tank.  Acetylene has the highest explosive limit range of flammable gases.  That means, mixtures between 2.5% and 100% acetylene in air will burn.  It can be quite dangerous, especially if there is a leak.  Leak check often!  With all that said, it's hot, and it works (heats) fast.

The ID of this tip is about 0.16". I've got larger tips, but this is the one I used.  The metal key at the top of the picture has a square hole punched out to fit a 1/8" stem to turn on and off the B-tank.  (Kind of a scale for the drawing.)  The tip of the inner cone is the hottest part of the flame.  Also the flame extends about 10-12 inches or so. It can catch things on fire, if you are not careful.  @Bi11Hudson is right, acetylene is dangerous, but it's manageable.  The flame is nearly silent on a Prestolite, so once it's lit, it's straight to business.  When you are done, you turn if off, and it makes a pop.  When I was heating the workpiece, the entire flame was inside the "oven".  You can see the shadow of the workpiece on the fire brick, that's where I concentrated the flame.  In a minute I'll show you the  workpiece, but I have to go get it.  (and take a picture!)


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## WobblyHand (Jan 19, 2020)

The annealed part.  I concentrated the heat on the right most 1" of the part.  The part is 6" long.  If you look carefully, there is a bright ring around the edge of the hole.  That's where I turned a drill by hand to see if it could scratch the steel now.  I also was able to scratch the steel using the edge of my calipers.  Hopefully it's now soft enough to drill again.  I'll find out soon!


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## brino (Jan 19, 2020)

WobblyHand said:


> The keystock I have is kind of soft. Not sure if one can heat treat the keystock to toughen it, just haven't researched it yet.



That really depends on the carbon content.....which is unlikely to be specified.
You could run some tests however.....
....and you could case hardened it.

Personally I bet the (untreated, unhardened, normal state) key-stock would be fine for the square drive tip of a lathe chuck wrench.
It's not something you'd use a hammer or gorilla grip on.

-brino


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## WobblyHand (Jan 19, 2020)

Maybe I'm being mislead by the ceramic belts I have.  That keystock melted like butter when I was grinding lathe bit models.  It's not case hardened, at least what I have.  There was no resistance at all.  Files and hacksaws cut it with ease.  HSS offered some resistance on the grinder.

You are probably right for the keystock.  I don't have any intention of gorilla grip, but stuff can happen in the heat of frustration.  

I admit it - there is some element of overdoing it.  However, I really dislike doing things over again, might as well do them right first, even if it takes a little longer.  In any case, I have 2 keys to make.  I have 2 chucks, and two short knuckle-buster keys.  Of course they are different sized!  My mind is open on the construction of the second one.  Maybe I'll braze the tip in.


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## brino (Jan 19, 2020)

WobblyHand said:


> It's not case hardened, at least what I have.



Right, sorry, I meant it as "you have the option of case-hardening it!"

I went back and edited my post #34

from:


brino said:


> ....and it could be case hardened.



to:


brino said:


> ....and you could case hardened it.



-brino


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## WobblyHand (Jan 19, 2020)

brino said:


> Right, sorry, I meant it as "you have the option of case-hardening it!"
> 
> I went back and edited my post #34
> 
> ...


That makes more sense.   Never tried case hardening, although I've read about it long ago, in the context of antique firearms. How does one do it nowadays?  It does sound like case hardening might be good.  

Would one case harden the square bit and then braze it to the handle?


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## WobblyHand (Jan 21, 2020)

Didn't heat it up enough.  HSS drill bit isn't touching it.  I think I misread the annealing temperature.  Dull red isn't hot enough. It's more like bright red nearly orange.  1450F is recommended according to Hudson Tool Steel.  It has to be hotter than the demagnetization temperature.  Have to try again.  This time, I'll do things a little different.  1) Go hotter and test with a magnet  2) Stay at temperature longer, I didn't let it sit at temp long enough.  Need to be at temperature for a little over 1/2 hour  3) Put piece in vermiculite so it will cool off slower.  Sigh, the things you do to recover when you mess up.  Still, in a bizarre way it's kind of fun.


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## GrayTech (Jan 26, 2020)

I probably would have extended the body of the existing short key with a tube. You could always just grind the square end to a pretty good fit.


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## WobblyHand (Aug 10, 2020)

After letting this sit around for 7 months now, decided to look at this again.  This piece of steel was sitting around saying, "Do something!"  This time I was a lot better prepared.  What that means, if you can't guess by now, is cash was spent on this machining malady in the intervening interval.  Bought a mill.  Bought and made some tooling, etc. 

Consequently, what followed was pretty easy for me...  Used a square collet block in my mill, positioned by a mill stop that I recently built.  Milled off the flats with a carbide end mill.  Flipped the piece around and drilled out the hole for the handle with a 11/32" carbide drill.  Pulled out the piece and chucked it in my lathe.  Center drilled and drilled for a 1/4-20 set screw to secure the handle. Tapped in the handle and screwed in the set screw.  The flea-bay carbide drill was slightly undersized, so I had to vigorously tap the handle home, with my machinist hammer that I had made 3 weeks ago.  Filed some edges and test fit.  Perfect fit in the chuck. Sometimes the blind gopher gets the nut!

So here's the first one.  You can see the original short one next to it.  Learned a lot along the way.


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## WobblyHand (Aug 23, 2020)

Well, been using my wrench a while and I rather like it.  The length is good, and the arms are long enough to tighten the chuck without lots of force.  Thought I'd do one for my 3 jaw chuck.  The original wrench was ridiculously short, with short arms and sleeves on the arms which always slipped.  Had enough of that! 

This one took a few hours.  That's because, 1) I knew what I needed to do, 2) had all the stock, and 3) had all the miscellaneous tooling and stuff that I had to make previously.  No drama.  Easy!  Used a 1/4-20 1/4" long set screw to retain the handle.  5/8" O1 turned down to 1/2".  Last section on the right turned down to 10mm.  Used a mill and a square collect block to remove 1mm from each face of the 10mm.  Resultant key size 8mm.  Since I didn't have a 5/8" 5C collet, I poked about in my tool bench and found a 16mm 5C collet.  Well that's within 0.005", that should hold.  Grabbed the 5/8" in the 16mm collet and used an 11/32" carbide center cutting end mill to drill through the hole.  Used the end mill rather than a drill.  The previous time I used a 11/32" drill, which was undersized.  That was a pain.  This time the end mill cut just a touch over, and the 11/32" O1 rod fit nicely.  The hole came out pretty nice, although there is a tiny chip on the entry hole.  Only a machinist would notice.  The metal fractured there.





No more busted knuckles.  Happy that this was just a straight forward simple job, rather than a long drawn out affair.  Needed a simple machining project to get back in the saddle.  Like it in white, but maybe I'll blue it.


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## mikey (Aug 23, 2020)

Looks good, and I understood everything you said. You're doing great!


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