# Mini Mill Power Feed For The Table



## lpeedin

Here's a link to another short video from my little shop. I'll be doing a detail video on all the parts once I get the project completely finished. I'll also do a video on wiring the motor control & using an old computer power supply as a power source. Hope you enjoy this quickie. 









Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Bamban

nicely done


----------



## brav65

I like it !


----------



## David VanNorman

I like it too.


----------



## easttex

Very clever

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


----------



## T Bredehoft

Nice clutch, why didn't I think of that.


----------



## Terrywerm

Very nice design, similar to something that I have been thinking about making for my Clausing 8520 mill. I will be looking forward to seeing more of the details on your project!


----------



## T Bredehoft

How do I make/get the female hex? Perhaps 6 flat bottomed set screws?

_Edit_: change fat to flat


----------



## David VanNorman

It looks like a 3/8 or 1/2 " deep socket . It is being driven by a square drive. I'm most likely wrong.


----------



## Terrywerm

I was also thinking that it was a deep well socket, so maybe you're not so wrong after all.


----------



## lpeedin

Yes, it's just a 9/16" deep socket. If I had it to do over I'd use a larger socket. The drive shaft has to be able to slide into the socket. I was able to drill this one out part the way, but had to do a lot of filing to get it to where the square shaft would pass through. Hopefully I'll get the detail video done tomorrow. I tore it down today & powder coated what shows & made a cover & clutch slide so I don't have to stick my fingers in it. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## MarkB

Good work!


----------



## David VanNorman

Nice job make me thinks I'll make something like it . I like the socket clutch its simple and it works.


----------



## Brentb1

I really enjoyed your video as you are very detailed and explained everything in a way that even someone that knows nothing about machining "me" can understand. I have a very similar mill "LMS 3990" and after seeing your video I am going to tackle this asap.


----------



## lpeedin

Brentb1 said:


> I really enjoyed your video as you are very detailed and explained everything in a way that even someone that knows nothing about machining "me" can understand. I have a very similar mill "LMS 3990" and after seeing your video I am going to tackle this asap.



Thanks for the compliments. I hope to get a couple more videos posted tomorrow on the power supply & motor control for the mill power feed. 

Upcoming videos will include a series on making a full set of archery stabilizers & mounts. Even those not interested in archery will hopefully enjoy the machining which will include everything from boring on the lathe to using a rotary table on the mill. 




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## cmonster6

I'm building one similar to this using the same motor


----------



## tincture500

Like the design. Would like a few close-up pics of the drive engagement  system and any experience improvements you would make if you did it again


----------



## lpeedin

tincture500 said:


> Like the design. Would like a few close-up pics of the drive engagement  system and any experience improvements you would make if you did it again


 
Did you watch the 2nd video linked in this thread? In it I do a break down explanation of the entire setup. The only thing I'd do different (which I plan to change tomorrow) is that the drive engagement knob (shown in 2nd video) need to be on the side instead of the top. I have to be careful now when I use the spin indexer to be sure its handle is clear of the knob. 

Other than that, I wouldn't change a thing - I am loving it & use it practically every time the table needs moving more than a few inches. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## tincture500

Any concern as to the feed not stopping ( get distracted ). May be a limit switch?    Yes. I did watch both videos. Great work. Got the drive today awaiting the wiring info on the next video .  awaiting the PWM speed controller. Thanks again. Tom


----------



## lpeedin

tincture500 said:


> Any concern as to the feed not stopping ( get distracted ). May be a limit switch?    Yes. I did watch both videos. Great work. Got the drive today awaiting the wiring info on the next video .  awaiting the PWM speed controller. Thanks again. Tom



Yep - I've got all the material purchased & ready to add some limit switches. Wiring them in will be quite simple, the biggest issue is where to mount them. I'll be making a follow up to my wiring video to show how to incorporate the limit switches so that if one is triggered the other will still have power. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Zoltan

I used that same motor to make the power feed on my table. I wrote it up with some pictures here:
http://benchtopmachineshop.blogspot.com/2014/06/mill-power-feed.html

Since I wrote that blog entry I've moved the control box to the top left of the column, mounted the power supply to the back of the column with magnets, and made a small cover to keep chips off the motor's shaft.


----------



## RCWorks

I based mine on a 300 in/oz stepper, that means that my first axis is CNC ready.


----------



## Sk8ter

excellent job


----------



## budbroruss

lpeedin said:


> Here's a link to another short video from my little shop. I'll be doing a detail video on all the parts once I get the project completely finished. I'll also do a video on wiring the motor control & using an old computer power supply as a power source. Hope you enjoy this quickie.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Nice Job!


----------



## CarlosA

I will be watching this .. the micromark power feed does not work as expected. The slowest speed is too fast for slitting, or gear cutting, and it stalls very easily. I really didn`t want my mini mill to be a project, since I have some real projects that need to be done - but this is one I have to commit to.


----------



## RCWorks

Mine right now is at near 0 to 3.5 inches per minute.

I need to step up the speed on the controller and go to 10 thread per inch leadscrews. that would over double me current speed.

I figure on pulse rate alone I can go up to 5 IMP, anything I can get out of pulse rate will double on the leadscrew change.


----------



## CarlosA

Update...

I upgraded to the .050 lead screws and the power feed works much better. I assume its because the motor can run at a higher RPM while giving me the slow speed I wanted with the geared down screws.


----------



## JamesSX2_7

Hello,

I wanted a power feed for my Mill too, and was most inspired by lpeedin's solution.
I did go a little different, using a 24V straight geared motor.
You can see the internals here (old photo - no engagement lever):





The internals are a deep socket (9/16ths), with a sliding hex and "screwdriver tip" to engage the table screw.
A large washer and pin provides a "slip ring" to pull and push the sliding part.

The finished product:




Have yet to finish the electronic end stops.

I've created a short video of it running:





James.


----------



## David VanNorman

That is nice neat job. You can be proud.


----------



## JamesSX2_7

Hi David,
Thanks. I am also quite happy with how it turned out.
Hopefully the end stops work well also. Bit concerned here as I am using magnetic sensors and steel chips/swarf may interfere. I can always go back to switches if needed.
I'll update when I finally get around to finishing it.
James.


----------



## higgite

Good job, James. I wish I had your skills and patience. I popped for the power feed with clutch from LMS. I'm quite happy with it, but wish it had a rapid traverse button. That is on my to do list.

ETA: Also, good job by lspeedin. I forgot that he started this thread.

Tom


----------



## lpeedin

Great job James!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## JamesSX2_7

Hello,
Though I might give a brief update.
I have now fitted "end stops" to the power feed.
On someone elses suggestion, I used magnetic sensors (Hall effect sensors).
I have mounted these in a plastic box on the saddle, and have moveable magnets on the table.






I have placed the magnets in a plastic rod (white pieces), but have now bought some aluminium for a better finish.
The steel blocks are held with a bolt, which can be loosened and slid along to where required.
Seems to work very well, and is repeatable to within 0.02mm.
It is impossible to set accurately though, as the sliding action is not too smooth.

Big question is: will these work properly when covered in lots of steel chips?
Haven't really used it enough yet to find out.

It it works OK, I definitely like it better than having some sort of contact.

James.


----------



## David VanNorman

I like what you have done. Years ago I worked with mag operated switches. These was little contacts in a glass tube . They worked quite well. Hope you have good success with your set up.


----------



## JamesSX2_7

Hello,
David, the contacts in glass tube are called reed switches. These were the "original" magnetic switch.
Hall effect sensors are the electronic replacement. They are more sensitive and can switch bigger loads.

I gave the end stops a bit of a work out yesterday.
As I expected, lots of chips stuck to the magnets - but they kept operating.
Forgot to check change in accuracy when covered with chips (concentrating on work!), but they DID stop the chuck hitting the tie downs in a tight setup.

Other interesting side effect: when needed, I can hand crank PAST the magnet, and use power feed to continue on.
I found this useful where I wanted to move well away from the cutter for measuring and adjusting the tie downs.
Cannot easily do this with a mechanical switch.

James.


----------

