# Building a table for a lathe



## HMF

Hey Guys

Did you build a lathe bench for your lathe?
Did you use a plan?
Are there any advantages to a wooden bench top (2" inches thick)? 
If you used a steel top, then are there any recommended top thicknesses? 

Thank you! 


Nelson


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## AR1911

Like anything else, mass is key.
Wood is the least choice. I currently have a 4-ft SB on a wooden bench, but I'm looking for a slab of steel to put between bench and lathe. 1/2x12"x 40 should do it.

My favorite lathe bench came with a cobbled Atlas 10". It's a 4-ft piece of heavy 16" C-channel, on a base of 3" heavy-wall square tubing.
The Atlas is gone, I kept the bench.

I'll be building one of concrete soon. In fact, if the above-mentioned chunk of 1/2 steel doesn't turn up soon, I'll pour a slab on top of that wood.


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## Pacer

Its probably a given that metal is better for a lathe stand, especially when getting into around a 10' and larger - but... you do what you can with whatcha got!

I built this stand about 4 yrs ago for delivery of my new Birmingham 12x36, it was derived from some unknown apparatus won by my friend at an Air Force base auction - stainless steel tanks, loads of wiring/electrics, probably cost us taxpayers a gazillion dollars. Any way, after my buddy stripped the stainless and most of the electrics off, he gave me the frame. After doing some cutting/trimming/shortening, etc, I ended up with this, except for adding 3 pieces of 2x2x3/8" angle welded in to fit the lathes mounting bolts.



I added a piece of 3/4" plywood on top to make a table top area - it doesnt perform any support function - got the lathe mounted, painted it and moved it into its new spot 



Built the cabinet/drawer modules - the far left is for short specific cut-offs, brass aluminum, cast iron, etc, the middle is for chucks, etc, and the drawers speak for themselves...



This is it today with my South Bend and with many more 'extras' gathered around for convience


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## AR1911

Pacer, that's a really nice bench!

I always have my out out for cast-off/surplus items that can be used for machine stands.
I've not found anything that good.


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## TRX

When I built my lathe bench I mounted the lathe close to the front edge, with the carriage handwheel sticking past the front edge.  I did it so I wouldn't have to bend forward when measuring diameters, etc. since my back doesn't appreciate that sort of thing any more.  It worked out well.  Re-leveling the lathe is on my to-do list; I plan to mount the lathe all the way to the front edge while I'm doing it.


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## Ray C

Hi Nelson...  You might want to take a look at this thread:  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/10957-YALB-(Yet-Another-Lathe-Bench)

Yes, I'm working from a plan which simply is:  Make a solid, heavy bench that doesn't budge.  If you've ever used a BIG lathe, it's like the difference between a 747 and a single-prop island hopper -and I'm pretty well convinced that a solid bench goes a long way toward that 747 feel.  I've got a PM 1236 lathe that weighs a hair over 1000 lbs and it stands to reason it needs to be sitting on a bench that weighs about 1/3 (or more) the weight of the machine.  I'm still working on the bench and so far, it's weight is about 300 lbs.  When I put shelves and load them up, that will add another 500 lbs or so.  -Nothing satisfies like beef!

Ray


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## jpfabricator

I scored a sheet of 3/16 steel that was 2'x5'. I bought a fire wood rack that was 2"x2"x1/4" and choped it up for the legs. I used 2 pieces of 1.5"x2"x1/4" tubing to make stechers that run from front to back legs on each side. Then for support and ridgidness I welded a piece of 4" channel iorn to the leg "hoops". The lathe is bolted to the chanel iorn and the top, now since I have the lathe in its finall resting spot I will level it and bolt it to the floor via some 1/4" feet/tabs. I am in the process of mounting some steel drawers from a tool box with a craterd case (the drawers survived) if the table, after being bolted to the floor, and loaded with tools still feels to light, I will drill each of the 6 leg tops and fill them with brick mortar.


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## JohnAspinall

I compromised between wood and metal.  Built a wooden bench, but "floated" a piece of 10" C-channel on it, for bolting the lathe down.
Theory is that the C-channel is hefty and non-moving enough to serve as a rigid base, but the wooden bench was easier for me (at the time, at least)
to knock together with drawers for storage, and might even have some vibration-dampening ability.




 - John


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## Randy_m

From my little bit of experience, bolting your lathe stand to a concrete floor, also in theory adds mass. It becomes part of the base.


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## OrangeAlpine

My "bench" was made with 4 X 6 legs with 3/4" plywood panels on three sides and the bottom.  The front is open for storage.  There is no top.  1 1/2" angle iron was bolted across the legs and the lathe is bolted to the angle iron.

Bill


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## TRX

I've seen several pictures of concrete lathe benches.   Just a few notes:

Your forms need to be strong.  Concrete is heavy, and thin plywood will bulge.  You need a fair amount of external reinforcement on your mold to keep things in alignment

Casting some sections of I-beam or channel into the top, pre-drilled to accept your lathe's mounting bolts, is a good idea.

You can grind/sand things smooth and paint with epoxy if you want.

Casting threaded inserts in for leveling feet is a good idea.

You need to provide clearance for forklift blades or pallet jacks.  These suckers can be heavy.

If you intend to move it around with a pinch bar, you need to provide for an angle iron perimeter (or tray) to pry against.

Rebar and wire mesh are still needed.

Sacked concrete is expensive, and you need to move along rapidly, perhaps with a rented mixer, if you want to finish before it starts to set up.  If you have a trailer, you can haul the form down and have a concrete contractor fill it.  With some negotiation, it might be very cheap.

The booms or hoses the contractors use move a lot of concrete and tend to dribble when shut off.  Put a tarp or sheet plastic under the mold to keep the trailer from getting concreted.

 There's no technical reason you couldn't haul the form in the back of a pickup truck, except concrete boom operation isn't exactly a precision thing... it would be a good idea to scope out the nearest water hose or car wash if needed.


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## kolob10

I recently built a table for my 13x40 lathe using 2" (1/8 wall) square tubing with cross bracing. Welded with a MIG making two passes. Used 3/8" sheet to make a mounting plate for head stock and tail stock areas. Haven't closed in the base yet but plan on adding shelves and closing in with sheet metal. Purchased the leveling feet at Grainger and the tubing as drops at a metal shop. I think I have about $110 in it.


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## vtcnc

I know this is an older thread but has anyone ever located the Atlas bulletin detailing the construction of a concrete bench? I remember reading about this bulletin, but have never actually located it.


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