# Clough42 Electronic Lead Screw



## RickRay (Feb 5, 2020)

I thought members would be interested in my implementation of Clough42's ELS.
Hardware:
The spindle has a 40 M1.5 tooth pinion so I made a 40 tooth 1.5 gear out of polypropylene from a domestic breadboard and drive it via a metal idler on the banjo of the lathe with a suitable bushing and spacer pined to the fabricated gear to align the gear set. I bent up a s.steel bracket from !.5 mm material and attached the Encoder to the banjo using one of the banjo T nuts.
The hybrid stepper is nested in the space under the spindle with a s.steel bracket bent to the correct offset to align the pulleys and secured with M4 screws The belt is T5/16 2:! ratio. The bracket for the stepper has slotted attachments so it can be moved laterally  to adjust belt tension. The installation feels vey secure and is quiet running. I enclose a couple of photo's to give you a visual picture.


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## RJSakowski (Feb 5, 2020)

RickRay said:


> View attachment 312716
> View attachment 312717
> 
> 
> ...


A similar approach to what I did. I also mounted the hybrid steppunder the spindle.  I use 2:1 reduction on the stepper drive but by using the internal gear box gears.  What size stepper did you use and what driver?


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## RickRay (Feb 5, 2020)

RJSakowski said:


> A similar approach to what I did. I also mounted the hybrid steppunder the spindle.  I use 2:1 reduction on the stepper drive but by using the internal gear box gears.  What size stepper did you use and what driver?


Hi, 2.2 NM stepper nema 23, Stepperone CL57y driver. I have cut a M1.5 10mm thread with no issues. Image does not do it justice, it is much better 
than 
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
the commercial thread.


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## RJSakowski (Feb 5, 2020)

Welcome to the group!

I am using the StepperOnline CL57T driver and  a NEMA24, 4.2 N-m hybrid stepper. also from StepperOnline.  There is a fairly active discussion going on here: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/electronic-lead-screw.76101/


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## RickRay (Feb 6, 2020)

I do not have a 3D printer so could not follow James's technique for the control panel. Herewith is my solution in pictures. It required careful measurement and layout. After 2 trial runs on scrap and a final attempt at the enclosure I had a result I was mostly satisfied with. I turned the some buttons from brass and made very thin nuts from 3mm standard nuts to retain the buttons and add some surface area to press on the switches and also account for any misalignment (mistakes). To gain sufficient bearing area for the button spindles I mounted them on a  3mm steel strip and drilled the holes a smidge over 3mm to allow them to return under the influence of the board's switch. I did try making small return springs but it only  made the switching inconsistent. Hope this helps.


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## RJSakowski (Feb 6, 2020)

I just machined "top hat" buttons from Delrin.  They are trapped between the panel and the pcb.  I replaced the LED's with new, using the longer leads to bring them up to  the level of the seven segment display.  Many ways to skin the cat.


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## kb58 (Feb 6, 2020)

I considered swapping in green 7-segment LEDs, but worry about lifting the copper traces.


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## kb58 (Feb 6, 2020)

Where are you guys getting the red filter material for the display?


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## RJSakowski (Feb 6, 2020)

I used to make timers for equestrian events and used red seven segment displays so I have a limited amount of that material left over from olden days.  You might try some craft shops.   If you have a plastic distributor in your area, you might see if they have some scrap material.  Otherwise, I bought some a couple of years ago on eBay.  You can get some for as little as $5. incl. shipping


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## RickRay (Feb 6, 2020)

I have tried working with the board but found the solder uncooperative even with flux! I am not using any red diffuser and do not mind the look.


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## ttabbal (Feb 6, 2020)

I used red translucent packing tape! 




I suspect the solder is lead free. It needs heat. I found adding a little bit of lead solder helped desoldering quite a bit as well.


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## RJSakowski (Feb 6, 2020)

lead free solders are more difficult to use than the old 63/37 electronic solder but it is still manageable.  In more than fifty years of electronic soldering, IMO the biggest factor is getting a quality solder to begin with.  Solders sold in hardware stores and the like are often poor quality, made from reclaimed metals and tend to oxidize quickly, making for poor quality joints.  I still use the older solder because of the lower melting point and I am not bound by RoHS rules.  A second factor is having the right flux.  Even in name brand solders, the flux varies quite a bit in activity. I am not sure what you have available in Oz but here I use either Ersin or Kester solder.  I currently use Kester 44 Rosin Core.  I used to use Ersin Multicore or Savbit solder.
Third, use the right temperature and enough iron to do the job.  I usually work with a 50 watt iron at 300ºC.  The iron should have a tip appropriate to the task at hand.  Finally, use the right diameter of solder for the job.  For fin work, sub mm.  For heavier work, 2 -3 mm.


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## RJSakowski (Feb 6, 2020)

deleted, double post


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## Boswell (Feb 6, 2020)

I use RED polycarbonate or Plexi that I get as drops from a local Plastic supplier. It generally works GREAT as a lense for RED 7-Seg LEDs.


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