# Enco 12x36 Lathe Rebuild (Picture Heavy!)



## macardoso (Apr 9, 2018)

Hi All, I recently purchased an Enco110-2033 gap bed lathe from a industrial surplus business for around $1100. It's more than some have spent on a lathe like this, but it was available nearby my house and in beautiful condition under the significant amount of grime that had coated it.  This post will follow the process of inspecting a piece of equipment, picking it up (on a budget!), cleaning it, bringing it into a house, and setting it up for operation.  I welcome any questions or comments on this (re)build as I go along.


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## Dave Paine (Apr 9, 2018)

We love to see pictures of cleaning, restoration, etc.

Did the lathe come with any tooling or accessories?

Is this a belt drive or gear head lathe.   I have a Grizzly G9249 belt drive which is 12x37.


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## macardoso (Apr 9, 2018)

Chapter 1: The Find

An industrial surplus company nearby my house lists their equipment online and I had been following them to see if I could find a lathe. I couldn't justify a new lathe at this time and even for $2000, you can only get a 10x22 from Precision Matthews and that doesn't cover shipping and accessories. Don't get me wrong, I'd love a new lathe and I do love the look of the PM machines.  One day, my soon to be lathe was listed for $1800 and shortly after was reduced to $1100.  I went out to look at it with the usual tools (tenths indicator, rubber mallet, wrenches and such) and was pleasantly surprised at the condition the machine was in.  


It was very dirty and built in '94, but the grime gave way to beautiful ways with nearly non-existent wear, a spindle with .0001-2" runout at the spindle taper, and gears with a full compliment of teeth (a rare feat in some used lathes!). Even without a 4 jaw chuck, faceplate, or change gears, I felt it was too good of a deal to pass up so I bought it!

Pictures of the lathe as I found it:











(Are the bedways growing hair?!)









Stay tuned for Chapter 2!

Ps: If anyone knows an easy way to rotate pictures when putting them in the post, please let me know!  I'm new to this forum.


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## macardoso (Apr 9, 2018)

Chapter 2: No spare parts you say?

I quickly realized that this lathe was more machine than I had worked with in the past, and having a solid supplier for spare parts and manuals was going to be important. I called up Enco (now MSC... ugh.) and was quickly informed that they discontinued the lathe in '99 and don't have spare parts. They were kind enough to provide an old manual with no useful information in it. As I browsed the forums, I learned that this was a popular lathe from China/Taiwan in the late 80's and early 90's. 

Fortunately, many companies sold this lathe with varying paint colors, and our good friend Grizzly offered it under the name G9249 12x36 Gap Bed Lathe.  Grizzly produces some amazing manuals for all their machines and has a good selection of spare parts available. I contacted Grizzly and was able to purchase the three missing metric change gears which should arrive in mid-June. 

This lathe can swing a 12" part over the bed (18.88" over the gap) and 6.5" over the cross-slide. It has a 1.5 HP motor (220V 1P) with 12 speeds (50-1200 rpm) by changing v-belts and engaging a back gear).  Max length is somewhere around 36" depending on the tailstock and centers. It has power feed and power cross feed, reversible feed and threading (left-hand), and separate leadscrew and feed rods. The spindle is 2.25 x 8 TPI, a relatively common spindle attachment, with a 1.57" bore.

Thanks to their manual, I have been able to figure out most of the mysteries of this machine! Just a fair warning, even though this lathe is the "same" as the G9249, there have been several issues which I have run into which I will explain later (hint, my tailstock was not an MT3).

Here are some pictures of the name plates, one of which show the required change gears to achieve metric threading:







Up Next: Chapter 3: Getting it home... you need it down the basement?


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## macardoso (Apr 9, 2018)

Dave, The lathe came with a 6" 3 jaw scroll chuck, a 4 way tool post, a live center (which was missing by the time I picked up the lathe) and a random drill chuck and big 2" shell mill which had fallen into the casting and I didn't know about until I got the lathe home. I purchased a 8" 4 jaw chuck, Quick Change Tool Post, live and dead centers, drill chuck, and the missing change gears. I'm still debating about buying the steady and follow rests from grizzly for $200 for the pair.

Lots of content to come, just have to find time to write it all up!


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## DAT510 (Apr 9, 2018)

Welcome to H-M,
Looks like your lathe is part of the Jet 1024/1236 family of lathes. Under the downloads section you'll find a number of manuals, in the Jet section, for the different brands the lathes were marketed under (Jet, LAM, Grizzly, etc.). Each of the manuals has different bits of info not necessarily covered in the others. Each lathe varied slightly in their specs, as you noticed with your tail stock. 

For my Jet 1024, combining parts from each manual, I was able to piece together a manual that matched the specific specs of my lathe. (For example, my 1024 has a less common 2"-8tpi spindle). 

As mentioned Grizzly can be a possible source for parts. I was missing the metric threading gears, I took a gamble and ordered a set from grizzly, they were a correct fit. 

There's a decent following of H-M members with the Jet family of lathes. 

I look forward to following your progress.


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## ezduzit (Apr 9, 2018)

macardoso said:


> ...debating about buying the steady and follow rests from grizzly for $200 for the pair...



Seems like a bargain.


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## macardoso (Apr 9, 2018)

Chapter 3: Getting it home... you need it down the basement?

Unfortunately I do not drive anything with a tow hitch, and was trying to avoid crazy expenses to move the lathe 5 miles (one shipping company quoted me $400), so I was at the mercy of a kind coworker to help me get it home.  We chose a chilly NE Ohio afternoon at the end of March to pick up the lathe.

I don't have an exact weight figure for the machine, but it is somewhere in the 700-1100 lbs range based on Grizzly's manual (minus the missing accessories). In order to handle the weight, I picked up a 1 ton engine hoist from Harbor Freight for around $140 on sale (This will be important soon!)

When we arrived, this beauty was outside waiting for me!




Unfortunately it was almost an hour and a half before a forklift driver came to load it.  Now many of you will cringe at the upcoming pictures, but I assure you we spent over an hour rigging the lathe and it was not moving at all! We managed getting it loaded sideways on the back-end of a F150 and didn't even bottom out the shocks.








Now the challenge was to get it off the truck without a forklift.  I encourage anyone who needs to move equipment to seriously think through every possible situation, and half backup plans for when things don't go according to plan. Heavy equipment doesn't like rinky-dink rigging, and loves the smell of gravity.

My personal situation is that I need the machine down the basement in a split level house.  There is a detached garage, which we chose to use for unloading the lathe, but it is not insulated and doesn't have power.  I had plenty of people telling me that what I wanted was impossible and I should just set up a generator or buy a smaller lathe, but after planning it out, I was confident I could safety move the machine in and out of the house as needed.

We drove the 5 (pothole riddled) miles to my house and backed the lathe up to the garage. After all the considerations I made, I missed one: the lathe didn't fit under the garage door! So I jumped on the rear bumper of the car, pushed the door up, and just squeezed under (rubbing the weather stripping as we went!).



To get the lathe off the truck, we rigged the bed to my shiny new engine hoist. Unfortunately the engine hoist was too short unless it was at the 500 pound setting, so we decided to continue very carefully (I was kicking myself for not buying the 2 ton hoist).




We spent an hour trying to get it off the truck, before we thought of unbolting the lathe from the base (duh). After that it was smooth sailing.



(That's my coworker, not me. Thanks J.)

That's all for right now, look for Chapter 4: "Man this thing is dirty"

Ps: The boats are whitewater kayaks.


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## macardoso (Apr 9, 2018)

DAT510, Thanks for the info. I have 5 or 6 different manuals, but Grizzly had the best out of all of them. I agree each has some unique info. I will have to check my spindle when I get home.  I already bought a new 2.25" x 8 TPI chuck so I hope it's correct. 

Ezduzit, it is definitely a bargain, but the wallet is hurting from all the expenses of the machine so it may have to wait a few months.  Someone told me to expect to double the cost of any smaller machine in tooling and equipment (oil, moving expenses, missing parts, etc.). I also own a Grizzly G0704 mill, which might make a guest appearance later on, and I found this to be accurate.


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## Dave Paine (Apr 9, 2018)

Nice pictures of getting the lathe home.

Your ENCO looks almost identical to my Grizzly.  My Grizzly has a 2 step pulley on the motor so in theory I can get about the same speeds as yours.   Changing the motor pulley belt at the motor is a pain, so I normally leave this in the "A" position and use the lower 3 speeds.   One day I would love to upgrade to VFD and 3 phase motor.   Just need the funds.




You may notice a small block above the ON/OFF lever on the carriage.  A better view.   My way to avoid the "brown-stain-in-the-underwear" when the lever goes through the detent and the motor goes from FORWARD to REVERSE.    It is always scary.

I made this block of wood notched to fit on the bracket.   A rare earth magnet and the thread dial to hold this in place.   Now I cannot accidentally go into reverse.   I remove this block only when threading.


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## macardoso (Apr 9, 2018)

Chapter 4: Man this thing is dirty

So now that the lathe was in the garage the fun could begin. Each night after work and cooking dinner, I would venture out with a headlamp and plastic tub to strip parts from the machine and carry them down the basement. I could only stand the cold for so long, so half of the time I would be cleaning parts in the basement.




(The big 2x4 was used to loosen the chuck)

Each part was meticulously cleaned and coated in a thin coat of oil to prevent rust. Each part was labeled with a number matching the grizzly parts list.  Fortunately I only have 2 bolts which I failed to label, but they are big and I have confidence that they will identify themselves as I reassemble the lathe. 

For reference, the basement was pretty and clean before this whole thing started (and before the mill and the rest of my tools arrived).





I don't have too many pictures of the actual cleaning, but you get the idea. I went through 8 rolls of paper towels, 2 bottles of rubbing alcohol, a bottle of citrus de-greaser, a jug of dawn dish soap, and a quart of engine oil. I found the rubbing alcohol to be the best for cleaning the sludge from the parts as it readily mixes with grease and oil and dries quickly (it does eat through the paint on the basement floor though). The citrus de-greaser worked well for some of the parts like the leadscrew which could be soaked overnight in a PVC pipe filled with the stuff, but wasn't great for general cleaning.  I have read elsewhere that the citrus stuff will bleach the paint and etch metals, but I found it to be very mild and did not find any issues with its use.






The collection of parts quickly grew and It started to consume the basement floor (I don't own workbenches yet).









Some of the larger and dirtier items were cleaned in the garage whenever it was nice enough to do so.

The apron was partially disassembled for cleaning and flushed with lightweight oil. When I dumped this oil into my oil tub, several roll pins fell out. I carefully checked all the shafts in the gearbox and they all had their pins, so these must have fallen in during factory assembly and sat there until now. Free pins! (I needed one of these later after destroying a different one). It's much cleaner and shiner now!




The quick change gearbox was fairly dirt free, but did not spin smoothly at all. I could barely spin the input shaft with all my strength.  As I began cleaning it with a toothbrush, an incredible amount of grit and dirt started sloughing off. After 4 hours of cleaning and flushing with light oil, the gearbox spins smooth as silk and the input shaft can be turned between two fingers.  I did replace the bearing on the keyed shaft which the arms are mounted to as they were blown (Open bearings in an open gearbox? Who thought that was a good idea?). I am impressed by the oiling system in this lathe, each bushing in the gearbox has a feed tube from an oil reservoir.

That's all for now. Stay tuned for Chapter 5: Hope the stairs can take it


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## macardoso (Apr 9, 2018)

Dave, thanks for that idea! Definitely going to do something similar. I heard rumors that the motor cannot be thrown in reverse as it is still spinning down or it will continue to run forward.  Very jealous of your setup and tooling! DRO will definitely be needed in the future.


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## ezduzit (Apr 9, 2018)

For cleaning use denatured alcohol and S100 motorcycle wheel cleaner.


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## ACHiPo (Apr 9, 2018)

Great write up!  Congrats!


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## macardoso (Apr 9, 2018)

Chapter 5: The stairs say.... UGHHHH

So at this point just about everything was clean and I was able to grab a buddy to help move the base casting.  I'd estimate it weighs around 250lbs or so and is awkwardly long. We planned everything out and got to work. The casting was lifted up on the engine hoist and rolled down the driveway to the side door of the house. We took the door off and built a crude ramp from 2x4's to slide the lathe down on.  I drilled a small hole through the riser on one of the steps leading into the house to run some rope to a friction system chained to the floor joists.






The plan was to ease the lathe onto the ramp manually and use belay devices to carefully let rope out and ease the lathe down the ramp.  Belay devices are used in rock climbing for holding the rope for a climber and to arrest a fall. They are rated for several thousand pounds of shock loading and I had no concerns using them (we used two for redundancy).


(Not me again! Thanks A. for the help!)






No more pictures from this point on, but the casting was lowered to the bottom where the engine hoist lifted it up and over to its final resting place

With some careful planning and reinforcement of the stairs, the move went without issues.

Up next: Chapter 6: Where did I put that one bolt? - part 1


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## macardoso (Apr 9, 2018)

Chapter 6: Why do these things have so many parts?

With everything downstairs and cleaned, reassembly and alignment can take place. As we head into this chapter, understand that this is where things are right now, and I won't have another 6 chapters for tomorrow, but I'll keep this thread up to date as best as I can.

The headstock was lifted onto the bedways first, and I installed a Fenner (off brand Fenner) link V-belt between the motor and countershaft. I will test this out and replace the other belt too if I like it.


The back gear was adjusted to fully engage and everything was greased.

As an aside, if anyone has some advice on how to properly load a grease gun, please let me know. I probably wasted 4 hours trying to get it running, and even still I get 5-10 pumps and then it hits and air bubble and I have to spend another 20 minutes priming it. I'm going crazy. For grease I prefer Loctite ViperLube synthetic grease. It is odorless, clear, and forms long strings as it runs between the gears which really helps make sure it fully coats everything. It is rated as a high performance bearing and gear grease, and can be used in food product machines.

Next the quick change gearbox and change gears were installed and lubed. During greasing, one fitting snapped off at the threads. I ordered what I think to be the correct replacement and I will have to come up with a way to extract the other half from the hole. (You can see the missing one on the reverse tumbler gear just under the spindle.




The carriage was installed and the gib tightened. Its amazing that a feather touch to the gib adjustment screws can make it so tight that it will not move. Once my way oil (Mobil Vactra 2) arrives, I'm sure this will be less of an issue.







Next the apron and feed rod were installed. Since the feed-rod bracket was removed for cleaning, it needed to be aligned (if I had to do it again, I would not remove this part). It was particularly a pain because the part couldn't be reached by an Allen key when the apron was bolted on.  My procedure was, move the carriage to the end of travel, loosen but not remove the carriage bolts and gently snug the bracket.  Run the carriage back and forth along the travel, and the feed-rod will push the bracket into alignment. Then move the carriage all the way to the end of travel, drop it down again very carefully as to not change the bracket alignment and snug up the screws. This was repeated until the feed-rod spun smoothly across the full range of travel.




And this is where things stand as of last night. I will continue to post updates as I have them.

Here is a picture of the el-cheapo QCTP I bought off ebay (Bostar AXA).


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## Dave Paine (Apr 9, 2018)

Thanks for all the pictures and the story to get your lathe in the basement and cleaned up.   I recently helped someone move a Sheldon 12in lathe into his basement so appreciate the effort.

I forgot to say before, welcome to the forum.

You will enjoy using the lathe when re-assembled.   Taking it apart to clean will soon feel to be worth the effort.


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## FOMOGO (Apr 9, 2018)

"When I was a boy" we used to tuck that lathe bed under an arm and carry it down the stairs. Just kidding, nice job, and a good write up. Cheers, Mike


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## macardoso (Apr 10, 2018)

Chapter 6 Continued...

Didn't have too long to work last night but I do have a few updates.   Got lucky with the spindle and the 2.25" x 8 TPI chuck fit without issue. Remeasured the bore now that is nice and clean and I'm seeing .00015" runout along the entirety of the MT5 taper, .0015 axial runout on the nose of the spindle (this should be easy to cleanup), and about .0001 or so of endplay when I push as hard as I can against the ends of the spindle.  I assume with a threaded chuck this really means nothing since it will only seat on the threads, but oh well.  I'll have to clean those up really nice.






Next I assembled the leadscrew and spindle lever.  This was fairly painless except that I forgot to put the bearing shroud on the leadscrew before I installed everything else so it all had to come apart again (I can almost hear my dad telling me to slow down). I had used some masking tape to hold the bolts in the bearing block that supports the screws at the tailstock end, and it ripped off all the paint under it when I peeled it off.  I may repaint some parts down the road.







(OK so you cant really see the missing paint in the photo, I'll have to get a better shot)

The biggest pain point was installing the spindle lever. There is nothing to retain it at the headstock end except for a bore, so it can easily back out of the hole without you noticing and fall off the roller arms of the micro-switches. When I pushed it back in, I bent one of the arms of the switch slightly.  I was able to straighten it back out, but the clicking of the switch is not very reliable.  I may order a spare from grizzly ($16 each), or better yet find a whole new brand or style of switch.  I don't like the configuration on this lathe. Furthermore, the whole lever seems to be tensioned by a setscrew on the bearing block located near the tailstock. This seems a little hokey, and an 1/8 turn of the screw takes the lever from falling due to gravity to completely locked.  I would much rather have a nice ball and spring detent system seen in many other places around the lathe.

As you can see in the above pictures, I did install the cross slide and adjust the gib. It moves very smoothly (although a little tight) with around .003-.004" backlash. I could easily adjust this out, but so far, that small amount of play is fine and I don't want to wear out the screw.




It might be hard to see here, but the cross slide only has +/- 45 degrees of markings on it, and my compound slide only has a single line on the side (reads 0 when the compound is parallel to the ways). This is going to make it very annoying to set angles beyond 45 degrees.  Is this what your lathes look like as well? I might have to carefully scribe a second line on the compound to read 0 when the slide is perpendicular to the ways.

Finally, both the cross slide and carriage hand wheels rub slightly when spun, and I'm pretty sure it is the vernier ring rubbing the casting. I'll have to blue it up to see where the transfer is and lightly sand the parts down for a better fit.






Still waiting on the spindle oil, so I can't run it in yet.

Questions for you guys:
1) What kind of paint is used on machine tools and where can you buy it?  I know there are some more and less toxic varieties and I'd like to stick with something that can be rolled on if possible.
2) What is the trick for adjusting the spindle lever such that it is easy to use, but is not a risk of falling down (especially when in the up position)?
3) Has anyone tried alternative spindle lever designs?
4) What does your lathe look like as far as the angle markings on the compound slide?
5) What is the cheapest decent quality (oxymoron I know!) DRO one can find for a lathe? 

Cheers,

Mike


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## Dave Paine (Apr 10, 2018)

Many options for paint.   Take a look at YouTube videos like Keith Rucker, Halligan142 for example.  They have done a number of restorations including painting.

I think you may need to replace the springs in the spindle lever, especially the one which pushes the lever into the "OFF" detent position.  May need a stiffer spring(s).

My spindle lever feels fine so no need to consider redesign.

The markings on my compound slide stop at 55 deg, so worthless for threading.  Why they did not go to 60 deg is a mystery.

My solution was to cut a piece of wood at the desired angle, insert a rare earth magnet, and use this to set the angle for the compound for threading.




There are a number of threads on the forum about DRO recommendations.  As you mentioned cheap and decent quality may not go together.

Yuriy's TouchDRO is perhaps the cheapest.   Uses Android phone/tablet for display.

I have a Shooting Star CBX on my mill which is an inexpensive unit.

You need to decide on the type of scale.   Glass scales have to be purchased at the correct length.   I have glass scales on my Grizzly lathe.   Works well.

The scale on the carriage is on the right so it covers the carriage lock.


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## middle.road (Apr 10, 2018)

Dave Paine said:


> Nice pictures of getting the lathe home.
> 
> Your ENCO looks almost identical to my Grizzly.  My Grizzly has a 2 step pulley on the motor so in theory I can get about the same speeds as yours.   Changing the motor pulley belt at the motor is a pain, so I normally leave this in the "A" position and use the lower 3 speeds.   One day I would love to upgrade to VFD and 3 phase motor.   Just need the funds.
> 
> ...


Now that thar is an obvious solution. Wish I'd thought of it - about (5) years ago.
Just added this mod to my 'To-Do' list...
There have been times where mine does go into reverse, not quite sure how it does that though.


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## macardoso (Apr 10, 2018)

Dave, I like your magnetic wood blocks for everything! I'll have to do something similar.  I got to thinking that it would be pretty slick to install an absolute encoder inside the compound slide to read the angle back in high resolution.

Now that you mention it, I cleaned that tension spring and did not reinstall it tightly. I'll look at it tonight.

Is there any reason that the threading dial should not be left in contact with the leadscrew all the time?


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## Dave Paine (Apr 10, 2018)

macardoso said:


> Is there any reason that the threading dial should not be left in contact with the leadscrew all the time?



There was a forum thread on this topic some months ago.   A good subject to start the proverbial bar fight.

Some folks like to keep it engaged with the lead screw, some like to not have it engaged.   

I am in the latter camp.   I prefer not to have the wear on the thread dial when not in use.  I know that my leadscrew is only rotating when I have the carriage in threading mode and the clutch engaged so the threading dial is only moving with the carriage.


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## spitfire_er (Apr 11, 2018)

Would you be able to do me a favor and count your back gear teeth? Mine are broken on the small gear and I count 58/21. I was hoping to get a new gear from grizzly for a G9249, but they list 58/24. If I can get that fixed on my Enco 110-2034, I'm golden. I really don't want to try and do a braze and file job on those spiral gears. 

If you are wondering about paint, I've done several machines that have held up extremely well and I was given the process by a professional machine rebuilder. You can also check out my youtube channel, I restored a South Bend Heavy 10 a couple years ago and the paint on that thing held up great.  "Precision Machine Shed" on youtube.


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## macardoso (Apr 12, 2018)

Spitfire_er, I will definitely do that after work today. Brazing wouldn't be fun at all (well the filing to shape part at least).

OK, that South Bend 10L is a seriously great restoration job. Beyond my skill level right now for sure. If you don't mind sharing, what does a scraping job like that cost (ballpark)? 

We will have to chat about some gunsmithing once I get this up and running. I have some projects in mind.


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## macardoso (Apr 12, 2018)

Chapter 6 Part 3:

So progress has been a tad bit slower, but I managed to finish up the mechanical assembly of the cross slide and tailstock.



The compound slide nut is an interesting design. By leaving a set screw loose, the nut is free to pivot and can self align to the leadscrew. After extending the compound slide to the rear, I tightened up this screw and it runs smoothly without binding.






Here is a shot of the mechanics behind the compound slide travel.




Begin Rant: Seriously who puts the two most used features of the compound slide (slide lock and rotation lock) ON TOP OF EACHOTHER? You have to pull out the slide lock to change the angle of the compound.  That's going to need to be replaced with a set screw or something.
Correction, it became clear to me that I'm an idiot and the compound lock only blocks the rotation bolt when the compound slide is in one position and I can just slide it out of the way. Duh! 






Final beauty shot of the finished compound slide.




Next I began work on the tailstock. This didn't take long as I did not fully disassemble it. The factory painted over several seams between the parts and I did not want to have to repaint. The slight rust stain on the nose of the tailstock and on the rear right bedway are the only two spots, and do not impair functionality. I'm pretty pleased with that.




The Enco version of this lathe does not have a graduated handwheel for the tailstock which limits it's usefulness in my mind. Grizzly's tailstock does come with the collar, but it might be a totally different design than mine.  This part may need to be fabricated, but that wont be bad at all with a CNC 4th axis.  All the locks were tightened up and the travel is very smooth.  You can see my new keyless drill chuck from Shars in the picture.




I finally found where my two extra bolts went: the headstock cover hinges!








The rubber wipers were in great shape and I reattached them. The assembly is complete!




There are still a handful of things that need to be attached (The switch plate, a new rubber pad for the top of the headstock, tool post, etc.) but the mechanical assembly is complete for the most part.

The spindle is grossly out of alignment to the ways (wonder why that is ), so I'll need to tackle that soon!

In the next week or two keep an eye out for:

Tooling and workholding
Lifting the lathe onto the stand
Spindle bearing run-in, belt adjustment, gear adjustment, etc.
Electrical rebuild
Bed leveling, spindle alignment, tailstock alignment
Test cutting and more!
Until then, Cheers! - Mike


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## spitfire_er (Apr 12, 2018)

macardoso said:


> Spitfire_er, I will definitely do that after work today. Brazing wouldn't be fun at all (well the filing to shape part at least).
> 
> OK, that South Bend 10L is a seriously great restoration job. Beyond my skill level right now for sure. If you don't mind sharing, what does a scraping job like that cost (ballpark)?
> We will have to chat about some gunsmithing once I get this up and running. I have some projects in mind.



A re-grind and flake job like mine was close to $2k, but he did basically everything on the machine to bring everything back into spec. 

I'm always open to questions, just let me know.

As for the gear, the grizzly manual states 58/24, but in their website for parts it states 58/21. I ordered a new one last night. Was about $120 with shipping. I figure that's worth it vs. my time trying to fix it with brazing and files.


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## macardoso (Apr 12, 2018)

spitfire_er said:


> As for the gear, the grizzly manual states 58/24, but in their website for parts it states 58/21. I ordered a new one last night. Was about $120 with shipping. I figure that's worth it vs. my time trying to fix it with brazing and files



Awesome! I'll still count mine to make sure but it sounds like you have the correct one. That's totally worth it.


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## Dave Paine (Apr 12, 2018)

macardoso said:


> The Enco version of this lathe does not have a graduated handwheel for the tailstock which limits it's usefulness in my mind. Grizzly's tailstock does come with the collar, but it might be a totally different design than mine.  This part may need to be fabricated, but that wont be bad at all with a CNC 4th axis.



I read a post sometime last year where a person stated they had never used the dial on the end of their tailstock.

I use mine often when drilling on the lathe.  I only use the scale on the front of the quill as a guide for how much to advance the quill before inserting drill chuck or live centre, which have different depths in the MT3 taper.

I use the dial to get close to my drill depth before checking with depth gauge, then may reset to 0 to make final pass before re-checking.




I will be interested in future pictures of a project to add a dial to your ENCO lathe.  For reference, this is a picture of my tailstock quill handle removed.

The handle has a normal keyway slot.   The shaft has a hole for a round key, looks like a small piece of rod.


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## Silverbullet (Apr 12, 2018)

Looks to me you did real well buying this lathe, I'd say great deal. Enjoying your clean up and adventures into machine life. YUPP it gets in and you love it. I'm an old machinist and my pads full of machine pictures of all kinds . Even my instogram and pinterest a few of guns the only true love of mine after family.
I think I'd make some stop to prevent instant reverse , strong spring in one direction may work. Good machinery enamel paint will work well. Also even tho you found the gear wouldn't be good learning experience to repair the old gear , I like pushing myself to try the tuff,,pita,, jobs just to do it. And since your new HI AND WELCOME TO THE SITE. Where no question is wrong.


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## macardoso (Apr 12, 2018)

Dave Paine said:


> I will be interested in future pictures of a project to add a dial to your ENCO lathe. For reference, this is a picture of my tailstock quill handle removed.



Dave, thank you very much for the pictures, they will become very helpful when I go to make that ring. I'll post lots of pictures about it.

Silverbullet, I've already got the machinery bug! I'm hoping to get everything set up and start seriously looking for some jobs within the next month or two.  There will definitely be some tweaks to the machine but overall I am very pleased with it.  I have the tools and instruments to do a nice alignment job, so if I can cut some nice parts soon I will be very pleased.


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## macardoso (Apr 12, 2018)

I forgot to mention above, but here are the oils that I bought for the machine:




They were the recommended ones from Grizzly. The DTE (McMaster 2158K15) is in the spindle bearings, apron, ball oilers, and anywhere else that needs a little oil. The Vactra No. 2 (McMaster 2158K21) is on all the ways, screws, gear rack, and in the tailstock.  Even though they are both ISO 68, they behave very differently. I'm not sure I know oils well enough to describe it, but the Vactra is more "sticky".

To use the oil, I bought one of these bottles (McMaster 1902T127):



It easily depresses the ball oilers and gets into small places. I also have a habit of using way to much oil, so the tiny needle keeps me under control.

I didn't think it through, but I should have bought more of those bottles.  Next time I order from McMaster I will get another.



(The darker one is the Vactra)

I also ordered some ball oilers grease fittings to replace the one I broke.  They are M6x1 if anyone needs a replacement.


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## macardoso (Apr 12, 2018)

macardoso said:


> Awesome! I'll still count mine to make sure but it sounds like you have the correct one. That's totally worth it.



58/21 just counted.  Looks like you’re in luck!


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## macardoso (Apr 13, 2018)

Chapter 7: Tooling and Measurement instruments

I think that now would be a good time for a discussion of lathe tooling and measuring instruments. I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts and maybe I'll learn about some stuff I never knew of. What do you consider to be an essential package of tooling for a lathe or mill? 

To start off, here is the 3 jaw scroll chuck that came on the machine.  I'm sure it is of Asian decent, but if anyone knows the logo, please tell me.




(I know its dirty, I'll take care of it!)

I purchased a 4 jaw independent chuck from Small Tools in Euclid, OH. I went to pick it up in person and was blown away by their customer service. They even opened the crate to clean the chuck for me. On top of that, the chuck seems to be well made and was very inexpensive.






Do you oil or grease a lathe chuck?

I purchased a MT2 and MT3 dead centers, an MT2 live center, and a MT5 to MT3 adapter (which needs some small modifications) from Shars. I really like buying from Shars. My personal opinion is they are a step up in quality from most things on Ebay and still quite affordable.





Here is the beater drill chuck that I found in the casting near the tailstock.  I doubt I'll ever use it. Also as random 1" shank endmill?







And the new keyless one from Shars. I own several chucks but this one has the best fit and finish by far.  I have to test the runout, but it feels really nice.



Here is the lathe's original 4 way tool post with some sort of parting blade holder. Not sure what it's for but it looks nice.







I currently have this indexable boring bar I usually use for the boring head on my mill. It uses TCMT inserts. I also have  set of cheap brazed carbide boring bars for odd jobs.



My favorite tool for steel is my no name fraken-WNMG holder. I had a past employer who gave me a small tub of inserts (some completely used, some almost new) so I have a lifetime supply of WNMG inserts.



My favorite all around indexable tool is my SCLCR which uses CCMT or CCGX inserts.  Trying out a CCGX (aluminum) for the first time.





For single point threading I have a MTVOR holder. Don't love this style as much as the flat threading inserts, but it gets the job done.



And finally for parting I picked up a basic HSS blade to fit my new toolholder.



Not pictured are an assortment of drills, reamers, endmills, and anything else one might need for a milling machine.

Since this got a little long, I'll follow up with a separate post about metrology instruments.

Cheers! -Mike


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## macardoso (Apr 13, 2018)

Quick update from yesterday.

I lifted the lathe back onto some wood blocks (with no small amount of effort with the engine hoist) so I could fit the hoist under it.







After that I performed a rough alignment of the headstock to the bedways using a 3' piece of aluminum








This was just to improve the pulley alignment and make sure I wasn't damaging the change gears due to misalignment. I got it down to ~.0005 over 24", however this will change once the lathe is on the stand and I level the bed. I'll use a more precision method at that point.

I wired up the motor for direct connection to the outlet. I had some significant issues with the wiring and I'm pretty sure the wiring diagram on the lathe is wrong.  I followed the motor name plate and it works great, but this diagram would have caused a line to line short. Glad I double checked. I'll have to investigate more into the matter. (Z1 and V2 are connected at the motor with a factory installed jumper)



I let the spindle bearings run in for about 2 hours while ramping up the speed.  The oil level dropped in the sight glasses so I believe there are internal cavities that were empty that filled with oil as I ran it in.  I added oil until the sight glasses were half full when the machine was running. The bearings never got above 90*F or so, so I'm very pleased.  One issue is that the motor is surging slightly during operation. It is an audible change in pitch, maybe 20-30 rpm. Not sure what is causing that at this time.  My second issue is that the motor pulley is misaligned by 1/4-1/2" from the countershaft. I haven't found a way to successfully fix this yet. It isn't significant, but the belt rubs slightly against the flange and creates a little noise that might not otherwise be there.

As the belt ran in, the tension continuously dropped.  At this point the motor bracket is fully extended, so I will need to remove a link from the belt. Otherwise I am very happy with the link belt.




I also successfully extracted and replaced the broken grease fitting


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## macardoso (Apr 16, 2018)

Beginning Chapter 7: Setup and Alignment

Over the weekend I managed to get the stand cleaned up and brought down the basement. 

I purchased some 300lb leveling feet to use with the lathe from MSC. I spent a long time trying to find reasonably priced leveling pads and MSC came in at $1.89 a piece. 




I installed 4 of these into the holes on the stand and lifted the lathe over them with the engine hoist. 








I still have to screw down the center panel between the two cabinet boxes, but I'm finding the lathe very unstable and easily rocked back and forth (even after adjusting the feet). I fear that the cabinet may be too banged up to properly support the lathe. I will tinker with it some more, but I may need to add some square tubing to spread the feet out beyond the cabinets (front to back) or fabricate a new stand all together (sadly I haven't learned to weld yet).

I used a generic construction level to get the lathe roughly flat, then brought in my new master precision level to start the leveling of the bed.  This was more to get a feel for the process, as screwing in that center segment will certainly distort the stand. 




Plenty more to come on this matter. I'll also try to throw in a discussion on metrology instruments when I have time.


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## Dave Paine (Apr 16, 2018)

macardoso said:


> I still have to screw down the center panel between the two cabinet boxes, but I'm finding the lathe very unstable and easily rocked back and forth (even after adjusting the feet). I fear that the cabinet may be too banged up to properly support the lathe. I will tinker with it some more, but I may need to add some square tubing to spread the feet out beyond the cabinets (front to back) or fabricate a new stand all together (sadly I haven't learned to weld yet).



My Grizzly stand is likely very similar if not identical.   It is also not deep enough front-to-back.  The location of the bolt holes within the cabinet makes things worse.

If you look back at the picture of my lathe in post #10 you will see I am not using the centre panel.   This does not seem to add any stability.

I leveled the lathe with the 4 bolts in the outside holes.   I then have 4 feet with rubber bottoms hand tighened in the 4 inside holes.   This is just to help the stand stability side-to-side.  Not taking any load.

I used one of the holes for the centre panel and used a piece of aluminium bar attached to a right angle bracket which is screwed into a stud on the wall behind the lathe.   This helps the front-to-back stability.   I need to make a better bar but for the moment this helps a lot.   I think if you come up with some way to attach a support bar to the wall behind your lathe it will improve your front-to-back stability.


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## macardoso (Apr 16, 2018)

Dave Paine said:


> I used one of the holes for the centre panel and used a piece of aluminium bar attached to a right angle bracket which is screwed into a stud on the wall behind the lathe. This helps the front-to-back stability. I need to make a better bar but for the moment this helps a lot. I think if you come up with some way to attach a support bar to the wall behind your lathe it will improve your front-to-back stability.



Dave, thanks for the idea! If you get a chance to share some pictures which show the feet or bracket I'd really appreciate it!


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## macardoso (Apr 16, 2018)

OK so here is a quick discussion on measurement instruments.

My first job (internship) I worked as a technician in a metrology lab which worked on high precision gears. I got to use equipment on a daily basis which I would never be able to afford for my personal use and I became well versed in the use of various measurement instruments.

As far as these tools in the home shop go, buy what you need as far as your tolerances go, and then choose extra tools to make measurement jobs faster and easier. I could write a whole page on the various tools and tricks to measure difficult features, but I'll try to keep it short here. 

Basically if you're trying to hit +/- .005", calipers are great for pretty much everything, if you're aiming  +/- .0001", your instrument choice will be more difficult (and expensive!).

The basic rundown of instrument precision is that you double the resolution.  On digital calipers the resolution is typically 0.0005", meaning you can count on them to measure 0.001" (if you qualify them against standards regularly). On mechanical devices you can estimate one division between the smallest marking. So on a micrometer which has a vernier tenths grating, you can estimate down to .00005 thus giving your quality micrometer a precision of .0001". Again these measurements only count if you qualify them against standards, and if you are in a commercial setting, have those standards qualified by a calibration and qualification service. So your rusty old vernier caliper will not be measuring rocket nozzles.

In my home shop I have collected many measurement tools some new, most used from various sources. I will share the ones I use the most and the ones I rarely touch.

My favorite tool is my Mitutoyo Digimatic calipers. They are your standard run of the mill electronic calipers, but have a nice fit and finish, and have outlasted several other pairs with no end in sight.




In the sad event that those die, I have a no-name mechanical dial caliper which never seems to be short on batteries .




Second most used is my Mitutoyo absolute micrometer.  This was a gradutation gift from my dad.




For tool presetting (CNC) and general measurement, I use this shars brand 8" height gauge. Unfortunately my only granite surface plate right now is a 6x8" one from Tormach designed for tool presetting. Hope to pick up an 18x24" at some point.




For more precision work, I have a 0-6" micrometer set.  Most of these are mismatched but I do have a set of standards with calibration certificates. I use these standards to qualify most of my tools.




My favorite indicator is my Fowler X-Test Swiss Type. It lost a tip to a keyway a year ago and I finally located the correct replacement tip. Glad to have it back.




During that year, I picked up a Shars .0005" indicator for something like $30. It works like a charm, but I do miss the swivel stem and double range of the Swiss indicator (Shars sells one of those too). I recently picked up a Noga style base from... you guessed it... Shars.




For measuring bores, I use a Mitutoyo 155-903 set of telescoping bore gages.  These are a must have.  For smaller bores I recommend either split tip style bore gauges or gauge pins.




For measuring depths of internal features or some external features, I have a Starret 0-6" depth micrometer. If you've ever tried to use the back of your calipers to measure depths and found it very frustrating, you need a set of these.






Less often used but very accurate is a Federal .0001" dial indicator. It is old, but runs very true. Really only used for tramming or measuring runout.




New for the lathe are a set of thread measuring wires, metric and imperial theard gauges, and a master precision level.






(honestly this is so sensitive you'll want to pull your hair out)

Finally one last pin micrometer, it is pretty beat up but I trust it for +/- .001" and has saved me on some small and difficult to reach parts.




I didn't take pictures of the various setup and layout blocks that I use, but having a number of decent quality 1-2-3 blocks, v blocks, and angle plates is a must.  I also have a high precision cylindrical square for tramming my mill.  I'm sure I forgot others but these are the main ones.

Not shown are a few sticks of a very tough green wax we used in the lab.  Not sure what the material is, but we used it for checking inaccessible internal features. Heat it up, stick it on, let it cool then measure.

It is a never ending collection, but the more ways you can measure your part and machine, the more confident you can be as a machinist.

-Mike


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## Dave Paine (Apr 16, 2018)

macardoso said:


> Dave, thanks for the idea! If you get a chance to share some pictures which show the feet or bracket I'd really appreciate it!



Nice set of measuring devices.   You have a lot more than I have, so you win.   LOL

I prefer the mechanical-digital-tumbler design of micrometer.   Easy to read the numbers and no batteries.

The "temporary" bracket under the stand.   I will eventually replace with a more robust version and have a bar on either side of the stand.

This is not meant to prevent the lathe from tipping over, just to reduce front-to-back motion during operation.  




 I have tool holders on a shelf mounted on the backsplash.    This does not rock as much now as it did before I installed the bracket.

I purchased 8 of these "tapped neoprene mounts" from ENCO before they were closed down.   You can purchase the mount and stud separately.  The thought was to reduce vibration to the floor.   These cost more than your feet, something like $8.




The lathe stand had been modified by welding plates on the bottom which are tapped for 1/2in x 13 tpi threads.   A good size.   I then found out that the mounts were designed to use the nut to raise or lower the machine.   Since my plates are threaded and fixed, the neoprene would need to rotate as I tweak the height.   Not good.

I used the as-purchased arrangement in the 4 outer bolt locations, a 1/2inx13 tpi hex head bolt with a taper machined on the end and a tapered hole in a piece of steel to spread the load.    This is a picture of the right side stand.


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## macardoso (Apr 16, 2018)

Dave Paine said:


> The "temporary" bracket under the stand. I will eventually replace with a more robust version and have a bar on either side of the stand.



I do like that setup a lot.  I'll have to see what I can set up tonight!  My G0704 was top heavy too until I bolted it to that black 2x3' steel plate you see in the picture. Weighs about 180lbs.  She doesn't move anymore.  It was free to me so long as I picked it up and moved it. Oh the good old college days.


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## Jeff Michel (Apr 16, 2018)

Pretty nice lathe, most of the stuff I see at HGR is pretty well whipped. I have the exact lathe, though discontinued, Grizzly offered the identical lathe up till about five years ago. I believe they still offer parts.


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## macardoso (Apr 16, 2018)

Jeff Michel said:


> Pretty nice lathe, most of the stuff I see at HGR is pretty well whipped. I have the exact lathe, though discontinued, Grizzly offered the identical lathe up till about five years ago. I believe they still offer parts.



Jeff, I had been looking for a while and almost everything they have is either 10,000 pounds or beat to all h*ll.  This was a lucky find.  I didn’t mind the amount I paid because it was available right when I wanted it, and I can return it if anything was wrong.  Plus it was 5 miles away. But HGR is expensive generally. 

I already bought some parts from Grizzly and will probably need others in the future. It seems like it is going to turn out to be a nice machine.


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## Jeff Michel (Apr 17, 2018)

I see you picked up a chuck from Small Tools. Their in the process of clearing out a everything so the owner "Bill" is really dealing right now. They were supposed to have moved around the first of the year, well they still have a bunch of stuff. If you need anything oddball, ask the mechanic in back, Ed knows where everything is hidden, he's very helpful. If you haven't and get a chance, check out McKean Machinery in Brookpark, John Brand is the owner and is a great guy on stilts. He's pretty good with his prices, especially the small change stuff that hobbyists are wanting.


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## macardoso (Apr 19, 2018)

Lathe Update time!

I am getting pretty close to finishing her up, but there are still a few details to be hammered out.

To begin, I purchased some 36" steel U channel and added another 4 outside feet. This seriously increased the stability and I'm pretty sure I can't tip it over anymore, but there is still a slight bit of wobble as the bar flexes.  I should have gotten 1/4" wall or better yet just a solid 3/8" bar.  I might change that out in the future.  It is a bit of a toe stubbing hazard, but I'm ok with that to have a stable machine.







I picked up the hardware to bolt the lathe to the wall, but I'm just waiting on getting the electrical panel done before I do that.

I removed all the switches from the front of the lathe and found them to be unusuable (plus who wants dirty old switches?).  I replaced them with what I had on hand (an Allen Bradley toggle switch, CNC4PC Estop button, and an Allen Bradley push button) and I am very pleased.  I replaced the oil soaked cable with some new high quality shielded robotics cables and put in some new cordgrips.








Notice I swapped out the light for a selector switch?  This will be a "Reverse Enable" switch. Basically the lathe will ignore the reverse position on the power lever unless this switch is turned on.  I can put a light for power indication on top of the electric panel.

I won't post the pictures for the electrical enclosure just yet, but expect a short write up on that in the next few days.  I'm holding off on the alignment until I am ready to bolt the lathe to the wall.


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## macardoso (Apr 19, 2018)

Jeff Michel said:


> I see you picked up a chuck from Small Tools. Their in the process of clearing out a everything so the owner "Bill" is really dealing right now. They were supposed to have moved around the first of the year, well they still have a bunch of stuff. If you need anything oddball, ask the mechanic in back, Ed knows where everything is hidden, he's very helpful. If you haven't and get a chance, check out McKean Machinery in Brookpark, John Brand is the owner and is a great guy on stilts. He's pretty good with his prices, especially the small change stuff that hobbyists are wanting.


 Jeff, I haven't seen McKean Machinery yet, but it looks like they mostly have big equipment. Do they also have smaller tooling and such?  I'll have to check them out.


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## Jeff Michel (Apr 28, 2018)

Sorry for the slow reply, got sent out of town for a couple weeks. Short answer is yes. McKean handles equipment of all sizes and they have a modest assortment of small stuff, tooling/chucks/cutters/dividing heads stuff like that. They don't bother putting small stuff on their websight and the  inventory changes all the time, they price it to sell.


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## macardoso (May 18, 2018)

Hi again all, sorry for not updating this for the past few weeks.  Work got very busy and haven't had a chance to post pictures.  I am hoping to get some stuff out in the next week!

Quick question for you all.  The 6 inch chuck that came on the lathe threads all the way on until the mount hits the back of the spindle nose. My new 8" chuck (with a 2.25x8" backplate) threads on 3-4 turns and stops but there is still an inch or so before it bottoms out. It seems plenty rigid, but the mounting concerns me.  Could the back plate be wrong? Would my spindle be something other than 2.25"x8?   My 8TPI thread gage matches perfectly.

Perhaps related... I cut the back plate mounted to the spindle.  I measured .0002" axial runout on the face (all the way to the outside edge) and .0003" radial runout on the pilot diameter.  Once I mount the chuck I am seeing .004" of axial runout (which seems very excessive).   The threads on the spindle and backplate are clean and have no burrs.  I noticed yesterday that the chuck has a almost invisible gap between it and the backplate. Maybe there are burrs on the back of the chuck?


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## Dave Paine (May 18, 2018)

Your chucks and faceplate(s) should screw all the way to the register at the headstock end of the spindle threads.   If your spindle has the same thread as mine, it is 2 1/4in x 8 tpi, same as my SB Heavy 10.

The new backplate sounds like the threaded hole is not deep enough.   The chuck should fit against the backplate with zero gap.


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## macardoso (May 19, 2018)

Dave Paine said:


> Your chucks and faceplate(s) should screw all the way to the register at the headstock end of the spindle threads.   If your spindle has the same thread as mine, it is 2 1/4in x 8 tpi, same as my SB Heavy 10.
> 
> The new backplate sounds like the threaded hole is not deep enough.   The chuck should fit against the backplate with zero gap.



I'll have to use my new thread wires to check the spindle dimensions.  I really really hope the threads are 2.25x8!

The backplate is threaded through, so it is just binding on the threads.


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## macardoso (May 24, 2018)

OK, so spindle measured 2.2633 over .0717 wires so its right on the money if not a touch small.  Took the backplate back to Small Tools and they offered to exchange it. They didn't have another in stock so they said they would re-tap the hole and gauge it.  Again, it is nice shop run by very helpful people. I'll be going to them again if I need anything!


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## macardoso (Jul 2, 2018)

Quick update again. The 8" backplate ended up having the pilot diameter bored 10 thou' undersized. I bored it correctly to size and now everything looks great! Once again, a million thanks to Small Tools Inc. for helping me figure out the issue!

The electrical panel has been completed for a while and works great. A pair of contactors control the FWD/REV control. I ended up swapping out all the switches for AB hardware.

I started a new project of machining servo motor mounts for my CNC mill. The stock was 4"x4"x18" weighing 40-50lbs. I parted off several chunks (effectively parting a 5.5" diameter bar, what a pain!) and squared them using the 4 jaw on the lathe.  I have 8 pounds of chips laying on the floor. This lathe is a workhorse, and I can remove probably 5 times the amount of material compared to my mill.



This guy was a 2.25x8tpi thread lap. I thought the threads were slightly undersized on my backplate so I was getting ready to lap it.  It will be saved for the future if needed.  Good practice for threading.


Big chunk of aluminum!







(There are the fully installed leveling feet)





Until next time, Cheers!


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## tweinke (Jul 2, 2018)

Good to hear you have the bugs worked out.


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## familyguy (Aug 28, 2018)

Looks like you've put a lot of effort into that lathe - good work - I'm sure you will do well with it.
I have exactly the same lathe right down to the colour, sold in Australia as a Heerless mine I think was purchased around 1983, for me it has been great (hobby work only), I have though fitted a 3 ph motor and VFD. I mounted the mains on/off, jog button,  fwd/rev switch and speed control on the small sub panel near the gear change levers, the original stop start is still works as stop start only.  In setting up the VFD and 3 ph motor I did away with the 2 step motor pulley and fitted a link type belt from the counter shaft to headstock, mostly I use the vfd speed control  rather than shift the belt.

There is another mod that I found useful you may want to do - the lead screw half-nut lever mounted on the apron has a spring loaded pivoting lockout bar that prevents power feed from being applied when screw cutting, if you have looked at the rear of the apron you will know what I mean, older lathes made in the 70's and earlier did not have this lockout mechanism and I thought why do you need it -  who would engage power feed while screw cutting anyway ? 

The issue here is that the spring is working against the half-nut lever trying to return to its rest position, I noticed on a few occasions while screw cutting that the half-nut lever seemed to be working its way back up, so I always had my hand on it. On removing the apron to investigate the cause of this and seeing the lockout mechanism my immediate thought was to remove it altogether as it did really look like a crudely made after thought and in any case who would engage power feed while screw cutting anyway ? On looking at it more closely I realised the same could be done with out the spring by redesigning the pivoting metal bar, it did take me 2 goes as on the first attempt I was a but too eager with the file but the second one worked a treat. I don't have any photos unfortunately - but if I'm sure if you have a look you'll see how it can be done.


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## macardoso (Sep 10, 2018)

macardoso said:


> I contacted Grizzly and was able to purchase the three missing metric change gears which should arrive in mid-June.



As an update, I ordered the spare change gears at the end of March, I still have not gotten them.  I call every month and get the same answer that the shipment is delayed.


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## macardoso (Oct 2, 2018)

familyguy said:


> The issue here is that the spring is working against the half-nut lever trying to return to its rest position, I noticed on a few occasions while screw cutting that the half-nut lever seemed to be working its way back up, so I always had my hand on it.



Mine does the same thing. I think it may be less about the lockout and more about the nut riding up the 55 degree wall of the screw thread. I was taught to always keep light pressure on the halfnut lever while threading (probably more to keep you from taking your hand off of it).  Maybe the detent can be adjusted to be tighter?


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## Downwindtracker2 (Oct 27, 2018)

On my '92 BusyBee version the spindle nose is 60mm x 8tpi. That's right 60mm. There is a European 60mm standard spindle, so the 8tpi is odd part.


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## familyguy (Nov 20, 2018)

macardoso said:


> Mine does the same thing. I think it may be less about the lockout and more about the nut riding up the 55 degree wall of the screw thread. I was taught to always keep light pressure on the halfnut lever while threading (probably more to keep you from taking your hand off of it). Maybe the detent can be adjusted to be tighter?



I initially thought that my half nuts had worn from not being fully engaged while screw cutting, on pulling the apron off I was pleasantly surprised to find them in excellent condition, I also found that as you suspect the detent was not very deep so I gave it a few extra thou, if you do ever remove the apron you will see what I mean about the spring being set up to pull the half nut lever out of engagment


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## macardoso (Apr 24, 2020)

I had some content I wanted to share about this lathe and I figured that I might as well resurrect one of my first ever posts on HM. I've had this lathe about 2 years now and I just use it a ton. I've gotten very comfortable with it and have made some extremely accurate parts, sometimes down to tenths on the diameter.

I do have a major complaint though. Features along the Z (length) of the part were coming out significantly out of location when I used the carriage handwheel markings. I think there could be something damaged or wrong with the rack and pinon drive, perhaps from me using the lathe as a light duty arbor press for broaching 5mm and 1/8" keyways. 

I decided to invest in a DRO rather than tearing down the lathe since I would also get a lot of additional benefit from the DRO (and tearing down the apron is a real chore). I looked at DRO PROs but found their pricing to be a bit too high for my taste. At the recommendation of a few on this site, I ended up buying a DRO from AliExpress.

The seller was YGLILGEN Official Store and I bought the "NEW 3 Axis LCD Dro Set Digital Readout System Display and 3 PCS 5U Linear Optical Ruler Dimension 50-1000 for Lathe Mill Machine"  (LINK HERE)

This was my first time buying from AliExpress and I was quite skeptical, however the DRO was 1/4 of the price of the equivalent product from DRO PROs. I spoke with the seller over many days (12 hour time difference) and was able to build a custom package of 2 scales (with the cross slide being a 1 micron slim profile scale) and a 3 axis display. I figured I'd buy the 3 axis unit in case I wanted to add a tailstock DRO, compound angle DRO, spindle angle DRO, or RPM display later on.

Total price was $230 including shipping and it arrived about 2.5 weeks after payment. It was well packaged and had no damage. It did include a fairly good English user manual. The display is moderately large and came with a bright LCD screen and large easy to read numbers. I liked this unit because the menus are graphical context menus rather than a million buttons like other DROs. It came with some basic hardware to mount it, as well as a heavy duty plastic film cover.




I opted to mount it to the back of the headstock (unfortunately right in the path of the chuck spray!). I broke 3 drills trying to drill and tap the casting. Not fun!




The scales arrived in a separate box about 3 days after the display. The read head rides on the glass strip using bearings and some kind of spring suspension system. There are rubber wipers to seal out chips and dust (the full size scale has two layers of wipers while the slim only has 1). The red plastic piece seems to support the read head and will be removed after installation. The scales came with some mounting hardware and thin extruded aluminum drip covers as well.







I started with the install of the carriage (Z) axis DRO. Unfortunately I had to remove the motor to make enough room to hand drill the casting.




The scale was lifted on some standoffs and indicated true within a tenth over the length.




Here is the aluminum guard over the top.




To be continued...


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## macardoso (Apr 24, 2020)

It was important to be to be able to retain the use of the carriage and cross slide locks, so this added a ton of complexity and time to the installation. My lathe uses these wing screws for the axis locks. They take up too much room so I created my own low profile version.




This consisted of a 304 stainless "hub" which was tapped to accept an M5 screw. The screw was glued in place with some Loctite green. I then cut the length of the screw to a precision value to the screw head did not protrude beyond 0.25" from the surface. I cross drilled the entire assembly to add a handle, then filed it to clean it up.




Here is the new lock installed.




I then placed the entire cross slide onto my G0704 to drill some mounting holes for riser plates.




These plates lift the scale away from the cross slide so the lock can be used.




Here is a mockup of the final assembly with the lock sticking out.




I also added a plate on the carriage to mount the read head. Thanks to the casting being unfinished, I had to machine, file and sand this piece into a angled mess to get the exterior surface sitting flat.




Due to the proximity to the ways and the length from the end of the bed, I was forced to drill the tapped mounting holes with this aircraft extension drill (which had the rigidity of a wet noodle). Drilling the two holes, opening them to size by hand, and tapping them took 3 hours and a lot of swearing.




I also wanted to make sure I could use the carriage lock. On my lathe this is a stud which protrudes out of the top of the carriage and is pulled upwards by tightening a hex nut. I replaced the hex nut with a slim 0.2" "nut" made from 440 stainless.




To clear some of the mounting features on the cross slide, the nut was machined into a tear drop shape on my CNC.




And a cross hole drilled and tapped on the small lobe of the tear drop to accept a handle.




Here is the piece installed. The threaded handle will be replaced by something prettier when I can go to the store next.




The stud was hacksawed off in-situ.




And cleaned up with a file.




With the scale installed, you can see why I had to be so careful with the vertical height.




At this point the cross slide install is done. The locks don't let me get as much clamping force on the axes as they did before, however it is nice to be able to snug them up on heavier cuts.

To be continued...


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## Janderso (Apr 24, 2020)

Lots of work and looking really good.


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## macardoso (Apr 24, 2020)

For the carriage DRO, I did a lot of hand designing of the parts as I went. This plate became the mount between the scale read head and the plate on the carriage.




This larger plate had the slots cut on the CNC. It connects the carriage to the scale.




The 30 thou relief on the back avoided a ridge in the casting.




The carriage scale attached. I screwed up some measurements which forced me to mount some stuff upside down and shim it, however the install turned out perfectly fine! I could go correct it, but I don't think it is necessary.







With this scale mounted I figured out my issue with machining longer parts. The carriage handwheel accumulates about 15 thou of error (extra travel) per rev (0.7") or about 0.021" error per inch. On a 10 inch part, this would put the tool out of position by almost a quarter inch! Not good! The DRO will solve that problem for me and had a lot of great features like a tool table, and a radius cutting function.

I'm very happy with this product, but the install was a tremendous amount of work.


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## DavidR8 (Apr 24, 2020)

You did an excellent job!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jamby (Apr 30, 2020)

Macardoso
  Nice work that's far more then I did with my Enco 110-2034 lathe.  I am interested in the specs on your electric drive motor. One of your first posts gave me that info.   The guy I bought mine from had to replace the motor because of the lathe being dropped and I don't have anything showing what it came with.
Thanks
Jim


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## macardoso (Apr 30, 2020)

It is a standard 220V single phase reversible (4 wire) motor. I used a pair of 4 pole interlocked contactors to handle the reversal.

It is mounted on a cast iron bracket bolted to the lathe bed. The motor sits on a plate. The plate is hinged to the bracket to create variable center distance to the counter shaft above.

If I had to buy a new motor, I'd buy a 3 phase motor and VFD. I do get surface finish issues from the single phase.


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## jamby (Apr 30, 2020)

Thanks  

That helps.

Jim


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## jamby (Apr 30, 2020)

Macardoso

Well they were close when the got the replacement motor.  Its a Smith+Jones 67842 2hp 1 ph 1800 rpm dual capacitor Nema 145.   So my rpms will be a bit faster then the chart but acceptable.  Not sure what the 2 hp will do but okay.




The motor hasn't been a problem but the motor shaft and pulley were not aligned causing me to re-bore and make a bushing to get it running true.  But now its the motor belt that's introducing a shake into the machine.  So I'll replace that too.  Only other major problem was the feed shaft was in a bind with the worm gear and for that I had to drop the apron and by trial and error get the worm mount lined up.  Now you can get the carriage moving and push it down the ways.
It seems like a good machine and will work for me but its a world of difference from the Lablond, gisholt, monarch,  and axelson lathes I ran years ago.

Jim


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## jamby (Apr 30, 2020)

deleted duplicate


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## macardoso (Apr 30, 2020)

Sounds like you have a bit of work to fix her up but she should run well!

I can only compare to the bigger 14” class lathes we had at school (and I NEVER took a hard cut), but I’m very pleased with this lathe. I can do some small work and bigger stuff when needed. Been using it a lot on the steam engine I am building and I trust myself within a couple of tenths on it.


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## macardoso (Apr 30, 2020)

I ended up switching to a fender style link belt.  I’ve been very happy with it.  Pretty easy to install too.


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## Mikesweb (May 4, 2020)

New lathe user question. I have an Enco 110-2031 and the spring loaded pin in the bull gear that lets you direct connect to the step pulley pops right back out when the motor starts moving. Have you encountered anything like this? there is only like a 32nd of an inch maybe between the step pulley and bull gear, so I cannot see much. I can hear and feel it snap into place when I line up the pin and the indicator line on the pulley. But it never stays in place.


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## macardoso (May 4, 2020)

Mikesweb said:


> New lathe user question. I have an Enco 110-2031 and the spring loaded pin in the bull gear that lets you direct connect to the step pulley pops right back out when the motor starts moving. Have you encountered anything like this? there is only like a 32nd of an inch maybe between the step pulley and bull gear, so I cannot see much. I can hear and feel it snap into place when I line up the pin and the indicator line on the pulley. But it never stays in place.



Mine snaps firmly into the bull gear  pulley with perhaps 1/4" of engagement or more. The fit once it is in the hole is very snug with no discernible play. It is possible that the hole on the bull gear pulley has crud in it, or most likely, someone turned the lathe on with the pin not in the hole and sheared the tip of the pin off.

You can use the Grizzly G9249 (nearly identical lathe) exploded parts diagram to look how this pin assembles. It wouldn't be complicated to fabricate a new one or order a replacement from Grizzly. I am concerned that doing so might require pulling the spindle which is a headache that I have not attempted.


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## Mikesweb (May 4, 2020)

macardoso said:


> Mine snaps firmly into the bull gear with perhaps 1/4" of engagement or more. The fit once it is in the hole is very snug with no discernible play. It is possible that the hole on the bull gear has crud in it, or most likely, someone turned the lathe on with the pin not in the hole and sheared the tip of the pin off.
> 
> You can use the Grizzly G9249 (nearly identical lathe) exploded parts diagram to look how this pin assembles. It wouldn't be complicated to fabricate a new one or order a replacement from Grizzly. I am concerned that doing so might require pulling the spindle which is a headache that I have not attempted.


Thanks for the info, sounds like you're probly right. Do you think there's any chance I won't have to take the whole spindle, pulley and gear assembly off the lathe to replace the part?


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## macardoso (May 4, 2020)

From a quick look at the exploded parts diagram...

Parts 119, 122, & 123 make up the pin. 123 looks to thread into 119 and squeezes the spring 122 between them. From this point of view, it looks to be like the locking pin (123) must be removed from the bull gear on the side facing the pulley. I hate to say it, but it kind of looks like pulling the spindle might be required to access that.

Spindle repair is totally doable, but get the right tools, make a very clean workspace, and plan ahead with a written procedure.

I could also be wrong and it is possible to remove it from the front of the bull gear without pulling the spindle.


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## Mikesweb (May 4, 2020)

macardoso said:


> View attachment 323240
> 
> 
> From a quick look at the exploded parts diagram...
> ...



Where would I get a hold of a written procedure?


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## macardoso (May 4, 2020)

Mikesweb said:


> Where would I get a hold of a written procedure?



You write it 

No seriously, just look at your lathe and the exploded parts diagrams, figure out which parts are going to come off, which might spill oil or send a spring flying, then write it all down.

This way you know which tools you need and have a plan of action. 

If you do pull the spindle, it might be a nice time to replace the spindle belt too. You can’t get a new one in without removing the spindle or putting in a link belt.

I’m happy to chat with you to come up with a plan here. Shouldn’t be too bad.


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## Mikesweb (May 5, 2020)

macardoso said:


> You write it
> 
> No seriously, just look at your lathe and the exploded parts diagrams, figure out which parts are going to come off, which might spill oil or send a spring flying, then write it all down.
> 
> ...


You also mentioned the proper tools, what special tools do you recommend?


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## macardoso (May 5, 2020)

Mikesweb said:


> You also mentioned the proper tools, what special tools do you recommend?



Hmmmmm Let me think

(2) Spanner wrenches that fit the spindle jam nuts
Wood blocking for the bed ways when the spindle comes out
Flat blade or scraper to remove spindle bearing sight glasses
Cup or tray (I used aluminum foil) to catch spindle oil from sight glass holes
Metric allen wrench to remove the spindle front cover and gasket (104 & 105)
Dead blow or lead hammer to gently tap spindle to remove
Perhaps a fixture with a threaded rod and pull plates to apply force to the spindle to remove rather than whacking it with a hammer
Spare belt 
Dial indicator and mount (tenths preferable to measure TIR and endplay)
Mobil DTE ISO 68 spindle bearing oil and funnel
Gear puller kit if required
Rough steps in my mind... (Remember I've never done this) TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES AT EVERY STEP. This is a super helpful habit because inevitably you'll not know to look for something during disassembly and you'll have a picture to save you. This is important for parts which need to go on a particular way. 

Remove chuck and clean bedways 
Measure spindle TIR inside the spindle on the MT5 taper and write it down.
Clean a large area of work bench. I like to tape masking paper down to create a very clean work area
Use spanner wrenches to remove spindle jam nut
Remove spindle oil sights and drain oil
Remove spindle front cover and gasket
Remove spindle gear (use gear puller if needed)
Remove spindle rear cover
Use long threaded rod and plates to pull the spindle out the front
Carefully remove rear bearing with gloves and place in clean plastic bag
Slowly pull the spindle forward removing components one at a time from the headstock and placing in labeled plastic bags
Don't loose keys 106 & 107
Remove spindle entirely. Leave front bearing in place. Cover in Saran wrap.
Remove belt from headstock if desired
Repair locking pin. If you don't have another lathe or a mill to fabricate a replacement then buy one ahead of time from Grizzly.
Clean all parts and headstock thoroughly with degreaser or isopropal (rubbing) alcohol. Oil generously with Mobil DTE. Make sure to use lint free wipes on the bearings since any fibers can cause runout and bearing wear.
Begin reassembly in reverse order
Triple check that you have installed everything and it is in the correct order. The pulley should spin freely on the spindle and the bull gear should not.
Install the rear bearing. It might require some sort of pull plate fixture to press back onto the spindle shaft. I would think it would be a firm sliding fit but I don't know. Don't go too tight.
Install spindle gear. This too may require a pull plate fixture
Install locknut #1. Adjust to lightly snug. Measure spindle TIR and endplay.
Adjust locknut #1 to bring endplay to .0001" or so. The spindle should be rigid but still able to be turned easily by hand. You probably don't want it loose enough to spin freely. This can be adjusted later
Install locknut #2 and use both wrenches to firmly jam them together
Install front cover and gasket.
Fill to sight level with oil
Run in spindle. It should reach a steady state temp that is slightly warm to the touch. It should not get hot. If it does, back off on the jam nuts.


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## macardoso (May 5, 2020)

Further inspection indicates that the front bearing is in fact an angular contact ball bearing. The rear is a tapered roller bearing. This might mean that the bearing is a firm sliding fit in the front housing of the headstock and a press fit on the shaft. I wouldn't remove this from the shaft.

Both bearings will be directional. Make sure you get them back in the correct way.

Be gentle with the bearings. Replacing them will cost you $100.

Here is the manual:



			https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g9249_m.pdf
		


Here is the grizzly spare parts site. I got my missing change gears from here:









						Parts
					

Grizzly Industrial, Inc. is a national retail and internet company providing a wide variety of high-quality woodworking and metalworking machinery, power tools, hand tools and accessories.  By selling directly to end users we provide the best quality products at the best price to professionals...




					www.grizzly.com


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## jamby (May 7, 2020)

Macardoso
I added one of the link belts to the motor on my lathe and it sure smoothed it out.  Also with the new jones+smith I had to move the capacitors to a box on the back of the head stock because with them on the motor it couldn't be lifted high enough to easly switch the belt on the pulleys.  Found a small bucket that fit the back of the motor so it got hacked up until it slide up around the motor hopefully keeping swarf out ot the motor.
I am still looking at building a chip guard but so far its still a plan.
Jim


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## macardoso (May 8, 2020)

jamby said:


> Macardoso
> I added one of the link belts to the motor on my lathe and it sure smoothed it out.  Also with the new jones+smith I had to move the capacitors to a box on the back of the head stock because with them on the motor it couldn't be lifted high enough to easly switch the belt on the pulleys.  Found a small bucket that fit the back of the motor so it got hacked up until it slide up around the motor hopefully keeping swarf out ot the motor.
> I am still looking at building a chip guard but so far its still a plan.
> Jim



Those link belts are great! Honestly they are the only way I’ll replace the belt inside the headstock when my current one goes. They’re pricy but totally worth it.


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## Mikesweb (Jun 8, 2020)

macardoso said:


> Those link belts are great! Honestly they are the only way I’ll replace the belt inside the headstock when my current one goes. They’re pricy but totally worth it.


What size belt did you buy and from what vendor?


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## jamby (Jun 9, 2020)

Mikesweb
  I bought mine off ebay because of price and I bought the 4 foot one. It came quickly and ended a vibration problem cause by the original stretched one.
Not sure which vendor it was but it was the green one.

Jim


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## macardoso (Jun 9, 2020)

Mikesweb said:


> What size belt did you buy and from what vendor?











						ACCU-Link Size B  5/8 x 5 Feet Adjustable V Belt Adjustable Link Belt Jason    B  | eBay
					

Jason's Accu-Link adjustable v-belt is the ideal temporary. You are purchasing 5 feet of Type B 5/8" wide Accu-Link V-Belt. rubber v-belts. Office hours are M-F 9:00-4:00.



					www.ebay.com
				




Pretty sure this is the one I got (or equivalent).


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## jknc (Jun 10, 2020)

macardoso said:


> Pretty sure this is the one I got (or equivalent).



If you happen to be close to a harbor freight - they stock something very similiar - sku  43771


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## macardoso (Jun 10, 2020)

FYI, these belts stretch considerably as they run in. You'll likely need to remove a link or two after a week of use.


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## macardoso (Jul 9, 2020)

Got a quick paid job on the lathe last night. Simple shaft adapter machined from 1.25" bar stock. EDIT: Made 4 of them. Took me about an hour.






I really got to push the lathe on this one. Using the DRO SDM function, I could quickly change tools without remeasuring which was awesome. I used a CCMT32.52 to rough in the profile with 20-30 thou remaining on all faces. I then came back with a CCGT32.50 to finish all the faces to size, a SCGT to add chamfers, and finally parting it off and facing the back side to length. Took me just over an hour to do all 4. First one took most of the time to dial in the measurements.

Roughing was done at 410 RPM, 0.0073in/rev power feed, and a hefty 0.200" radial DOC. That put the cut at 1.98 HP using 25.3 ft/lbs of torque at the spindle. This is actually a bit beyond the capacity of the motor, so I'm guessing the motor slowed enough to pull the power consumption right to its maximum. Pretty amazing to watch it do work like this


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## jamby (Jul 12, 2020)

macardoso
  Did you use the same holder for both inserts?  and what holder.
Jim


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## macardoso (Jul 12, 2020)

jamby said:


> macardoso
> Did you use the same holder for both inserts?  and what holder.
> Jim



I have 2 holders for the CCMT inserts since I use them so much. I believe it is the 1/2” SCLCR tool from Shars.






						1/2" RH SCLC Small Screw Lock Positive Insert Tool Holder
					

Shars Tool




					www.shars.com


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## Papa Charlie (Jul 30, 2020)

Nice work on your lathe. Just went through you entire thread. I have the Grizzly G9249 which is almost exactly like yours. I just ordered a DRO for my unit. Saves having to deal with backlash.

On the Cross Slide, did you use the cover for the scale or because it is upside down, did you not put it on.  I haven't received my DRO yet but it appears to be the same scales, with a slightly different display. DRO

I assume you entered the different tools into the tool list on the DRO to make switching easier. ON other lathes I have used that function, I have found it necessary to monitor the inserts to ensure I account for wear and if I move the quick change tool post, I generally reset the tools in the DRO.

On the subject of replacing the single phase motor with a three phase. Have you looked into that? I would be concerned with finding one that would fit into the tight space I have on my Grizzly. Just wondering if you have already done the research and what you found?


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## macardoso (Jul 31, 2020)

Papa Charlie said:


> Nice work on your lathe. Just went through you entire thread. I have the Grizzly G9249 which is almost exactly like yours. I just ordered a DRO for my unit. Saves having to deal with backlash.
> 
> On the Cross Slide, did you use the cover for the scale or because it is upside down, did you not put it on.  I haven't received my DRO yet but it appears to be the same scales, with a slightly different display. DRO
> 
> ...



I have the cover for the cross slide but haven't installed it yet due to pure laziness. I will have to cut a hole in the top for the cross slide lock so I'm not sure how much it will do. 

This DRO doesn't have a tool table, but it has SubDatum Memory (SDM). This is sort of like work offsets in CNC, but on a lathe it is perfect for tracking tools. Just remember which SDM# goes with which tool. You would absolutely have to account for insert wear and I NEVER move my toolpost, even before the DRO.

I have not looked into the motor personally. I don't expect to have much trouble though. 3 phase motors tend to be smaller for the same HP, although I do expect I will need to adjust the mounting locations. You can always move the motor further back on the lathe and use a longer belt. Also your 3 phase motor won't have capacitors sticking off the top so it can be a larger diameter without hitting anything.


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## Papa Charlie (Jul 31, 2020)

Thanks for the reply. Thoroughly enjoyed reading your thread. 

Your on post where you took on a paying job. Do you get much small job type work in? I plan to retire in a couple of years and at that time will be moving and hope to have a real area to set up my shop. Right now all my tools are in storage, so sadly I am living (Machining) vicariously through others. But still updating and adding to my tools in preparation. My hope is to do some small jobs to help with the funds and keep me busy. 

Thanks again for the reply.
Patrick


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## macardoso (Jul 31, 2020)

Papa Charlie said:


> Thanks for the reply. Thoroughly enjoyed reading your thread.
> 
> Your on post where you took on a paying job. Do you get much small job type work in? I plan to retire in a couple of years and at that time will be moving and hope to have a real area to set up my shop. Right now all my tools are in storage, so sadly I am living (Machining) vicariously through others. But still updating and adding to my tools in preparation. My hope is to do some small jobs to help with the funds and keep me busy.
> 
> ...



Patrick,

I don't do much job shop work. It has all been word of mouth between friends and coworkers. I've done maybe a dozen different jobs over the last 5-6 years. I do not advertise and I don't go looking for work. I really enjoy doing the jobs, getting a little spending money for more shop tools, and most importantly getting to take part in my friend's projects. I already work a full time job, so I am selective on taking hobby jobs that are fun and don't seem like work.

I have done a few freelance engineering jobs too which has been a blast. My favorite was helping a guy get setup to do injection molding in China (I still get a million marketing emails from China though ).

If you need a project to keep you busy, I recommend picking up a steam engine kit. I could care less about engines, but I have loved every minute of working on the one I am doing. very challenging but rewarding!

-Mike


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## BMLLC (Aug 8, 2020)

Just picked up a Grizzly G9249 that needs some TLC, so this thread has been amazing.  

Mine came with a replacement Baldor L1322T motor that was mounted by someone who shouldn't have been mounting it.  The motor belt was attached to the first position for the spindle belt on the idler pulley.  To make things worse, one of the two bolts that attaches the motor mount to the motor base plate was missing along the tensioning bolt, leaving the motor just flopping around keeping tension on the belt only by its own weight.  Bought it for decent money because guy selling it admitted it "had a little noise coming from the headstock."

The Baldor only has a single pulley installed on the motor shaft instead of the factory two step pulley needed to properly switch between "A" and "B" settings for the spindle speed.  I'd like to keep the Baldor on the machine, but need to source a two step pulley for it.  

I was wondering if anyone would be willing to measure the key size and the diameter of their motor shaft along with the diameters of the two steps on their motor pulley?  This would help out tremendously on figuring out which route I should go.  Thanks in advance - Owen


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## Papa Charlie (Aug 8, 2020)

Owen, 
I measure the motor form my G9249 above.
Have you gone to Grizzly's website. You can download the manual and spec sheet for the lathe. Also, Grizzly's technical support can provide you with a great deal of information about any  parts that you may need. 
Unfortunately, the motor pulleys are not readily accessable for measuring on the G9249, at least mine which has a bolted on shield that is not easily removed or I would take additional measurements for you.


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## BMLLC (Aug 15, 2020)

Thanks Patrick, I do have a copy of the manual. 

I went ahead and just ordered a replacement motor pulley from Grizzly, but the pulley I received was not a stepped pulley.  It is a dual pulley with two belt sections, but both belt sections are the same size (2.25" OD).  

I don't believe this is the right pulley and have been hesitant to install it, as I do not see how this one would change the motor speed and tension the motor belt properly when changing between the two stepped belt sections for the motor belt on the idler pulley.

I have an email in to Grizzly's tech support, but can anyone confirm if these lathes used a stepped motor pulley with two different diameters???

It looks like from one of Mike's pictures on page 1 of this thread that his motor pulley has two different diameters.  This is also what the spindle speed configuration chart and the parts diagram appear to depict.  It's completely possible that I'm just not seeing/understanding this properly though!

Any help from owner's with original parts would be greatly appreciated!


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## mkelly (Aug 15, 2020)

BMLLC said:


> Thanks Patrick, I do have a copy of the manual.
> 
> I went ahead and just ordered a replacement motor pulley from Grizzly, but the pulley I received was not a stepped pulley.  It is a dual pulley with two belt sections, but both belt sections are the same size (2.25" OD).
> 
> ...


I’m right there with you. I ordered a pulley from grizzly expecting it to be stepped but received a dual groove. Somethings not right as shown in this picture in my thread: 











						Adventures in my new-to-me Enco Lathe
					

Following up on my intro post here: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/my-first-new-to-me-lathe.85003/  I'd been searching craigslist for a while for a decent lathe frame and this 1980 Enco 92030 popped up for $600 and jumped at the opportunity. Included a fair bit of parts, 3 jaw, 4 jaw...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




I just really hope grizzly acknolwedges something is wrong, because it makes no sense for them to send a dual row - single size pulley


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## jamby (Aug 15, 2020)

In my copy of the owners manual for the G9249 it show a stepped pulley on the motor.  Part no. P9249080  on page 69 pic is on p68.
Don't know if that's what you ordered.

Jim


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## BMLLC (Aug 15, 2020)

mkelly - I just found your thread before checking back over on this one...I'll post over on yours as it looks like we are going through similar issues!


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## Mississippi333 (Sep 10, 2020)

BMLLC said:


> mkelly - I just found your thread before checking back over on this one...I'll post over on yours as it looks like we are going through similar issues!


I'm headed home. Do you guys still need the measurements on the pulley? Mine still has the original and it's off so its easily accessible.


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## mkelly (Sep 12, 2020)

Mississippi333 said:


> I'm headed home. Do you guys still need the measurements on the pulley? Mine still has the original and it's off so its easily accessible.


I took some guesses based on the pulley from grizzly. I still don't understand which orientation the pulleys are in because the math doesn't make sense for the RPM, but otherwise swapping belts would be a complete pain needing to re-tension. edit: I realized that actually buying more belt and swapping to a shorter one when needed would be easy enough.

How'd I do?



Check out the work my machinist did:








						Adventures in my new-to-me Enco Lathe
					

Dual voltage motors, while they are capable of running on two voltages rarely have any torque in the lower voltage and end up putting a real strain on the motor and the electrical circuit. You will be much happier if you go with 220V single phase.




					www.hobby-machinist.com


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## Mississippi333 (Nov 30, 2020)

mkelly said:


> I took some guesses based on the pulley from grizzly. I still don't understand which orientation the pulleys are in because the math doesn't make sense for the RPM, but otherwise swapping belts would be a complete pain needing to re-tension. edit: I realized that actually buying more belt and swapping to a shorter one when needed would be easy enough.
> 
> How'd I do?
> View attachment 336638
> ...


If it's not too late I'd be more than happy to donate my pulley to your cause just help me figure out shipping. The whole motor if you want it. Doesnt look like pulley has ever been off. I just moved out a brand new Hytrol conveyor system at work and was given everything so I installed the motor and VFD on my lathe. Your welcome to motor, pulley, contactors, enclosure etc. I've been helped before and dont mind a bit to provide boxes/crate whatever. Just depends on how much your willing to spend S&H sir. I'll check back soon to see if your interested. To everyone, have a great evening fellas/fellarettes.


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## Mikesweb (Dec 26, 2020)

Mississippi333 said:


> If it's not too late I'd be more than happy to donate my pulley to your cause just help me figure out shipping. The whole motor if you want it. Doesnt look like pulley has ever been off. I just moved out a brand new Hytrol conveyor system at work and was given everything so I installed the motor and VFD on my lathe. Your welcome to motor, pulley, contactors, enclosure etc. I've been helped before and dont mind a bit to provide boxes/crate whatever. Just depends on how much your willing to spend S&H sir. I'll check back soon to see if your interested. To everyone, have a great evening fellas/fellarettes.


I want to go the VFD route w mine, how did it go? What all did you remove?


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## Gnpenning (Dec 26, 2020)

I would be interested in what you did as well and how it's working out.


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