# Power Hammer Project



## ex_isp

I mentioned in my mini mill thread that I'd soon be building a power hammer.  

Few days back, I got the first part.  a 1.5 HP motor from our own hman!  Was an absolute pleasure meeting and speaking with him!  He showed me how he has his X2 mini mill setup, many of his other tools, some of his unique inventions and we chatted and had a good time for several hours!  Was a good day!

This morn, I went by a LARGE fabrication shop and spoke with them about purchasing drops from them in the steel sizes I will be needing.  Now these folks build skyscrapers!  They have mostly stuff that's WAY bigger than I need or can use, but the foreman walked the yard with me and showed me lots of options.  Sold me what I needed for 12 cents a pound!!!
Screaming deal!
Got:
2 pieces, 8'4" of 8" X 4" 3/8" wall rectangle tube.  40% more steel than I need.  Perfect!
1 piece 4' of 8" X 3"  1/4" wall  rectangle tube.
2 coupons of 3/8" plate to be used for gusseting.

That is most of the expensive stuff I'll need and I it was all definitely priced right for my budget.  Linkages, round bar and misc stuff will be easy to find.  Called all the gas suppliers yesterday looking for a failed test, large O2 or nitrogen cylinder that I could cut the top off and use for the anvil base.  They won't sell due to liabilities.  Their dead bottles all get cut into small pieces.    I'll find a different solution for this.

Here's todays catch with the motor from hman.


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## ex_isp

Update!  Still needed steel for the anvil pedestal.  Was looking for a retired high pressure gas cylinder (O2, nitrogen, helium...) that I could cut the top off of and fill with sand and lead.  Called all the gas suppliers in the Phoenix area and was told "NO"!  If a cylinder fails it's high pressure test, they MUST destroy it.  Can not be resold except in tiny pieces.  Bummer.

Neighbor sold me his Grinder and vice stand for $20!  1/2" thick walled pipe with 8" OD.  PERFECT!      
It's a tad tall at 39" to the top of the lower platform on it, but "have torch, will travel"!  

Now just waiting on the blueprints for the hammer with very little left to pickup.  Things like rod for the linkages, a truck leaf spring, and the like.  Getting there for cheaper and faster than I had hoped for.  The Lord is smiling upon me today and I am thankful!


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## HBilly1022

Nice project and great find on the steel. Too bad about the cylinders.

A while back I was going to make some knives using automotive spring steel, for my first attempt and got a bunch of free springs from a shop that specializes in auto spring work. They couldn't wait to give it away and wanted me to take more. Apparently they have to pay to have it hauled away. Try one of these places for your springs.

Never did get around to making a knife but will someday. I have waaaaay too many hobbies.


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## ex_isp

Auto spring steel (5160) is actually what the ABS recommends for the journeyman test, though many use O1 as a second, and 3 or 4 others closely tied for 3rd and 4th...
5160 makes a great blade and is very forgiving in process.


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## ex_isp

It worked out OK on the cylinder... neighbors solution may even be better as it already has a stable base!

Can't wait to get this thing started and get real progress photos.  

Sad aside... Moved here to Phoenix 10 years ago.  Got the biggest UHaul truck and loaded it to the top, front to back.
Went and got their biggest trailer and packed it full too.  There were 5 or 6 things that I just did not have any room left for,
even in the cab.  Among those things left, was my torch, regulators and my own bottles.  Just can't even begin to say how many
times I've regretted that.


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## brino

I am "watching" this thread.
Thanks for bringing us along for the ride!

-brino


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## Tony Wells

If it turned out you need something heavier walled than the pipe you found, hunt the oilfield for a used up adapter sub or something similar. The threads get messed up and there is a limit to how many times they can recut the connection, so in time they get scrapped. You might even find a non-mag material piece. Super expensive new, but still, when they are problematic, like cracks in the threads or something, they too get scrapped. They will be all sizes and wall thickness can be 2 1/2" and up. A little hard to work with if you aren't tooled up for it, but will be very stable.


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## jpfabricator

To bad your not closer to East Texas, I got a large argon bottle I would let you have for the labor to load it. It has the old style heat plug in the top curve, and the gas company said they didn't even want it in the parking lot, much less on the dock!

Sent from somwhere in east Texas by Jake!


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## ex_isp

Tony Wells said:


> If it turned out you need something heavier walled than the pipe you found, hunt the oilfield for a used up adapter sub or something similar. The threads get messed up and there is a limit to how many times they can recut the connection, so in time they get scrapped. You might even find a non-mag material piece. Super expensive new, but still, when they are problematic, like cracks in the threads or something, they too get scrapped. They will be all sizes and wall thickness can be 2 1/2" and up. A little hard to work with if you aren't tooled up for it, but will be very stable.



Nickel-monel drill collars in 8" dia would certainly do the job without needing to add mass to a hollow tube in the form of sand and lead!  Wish it was available here!  I think though, that the pipe I got will suffice... it's very stout!


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## ex_isp

jpfabricator said:


> To bad your not closer to East Texas, I got a large argon bottle I would let you have for the labor to load it. It has the old style heat plug in the top curve, and the gas company said they didn't even want it in the parking lot, much less on the dock!
> 
> Sent from somwhere in east Texas by Jake!



I know those old bottles!  That would also be perfect!  I'd let ya ship it to me and I'd say a very hearty thanks!


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## jpfabricator

I would send it COD  

Sent from somwhere in east Texas by Jake!


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## ex_isp

Thanks JP!  I knew you were a buddy!  LOL


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## ex_isp

Re-acquired and torch setup today.  Drove to Payson, Az and got O2 and acetylene regulators with hose,
$100.  Went by the gas supplier on the way home and had them test the setup.  Torch SPEWED O2 even with 
the vales closed.  The valves (2) were $40 ea or they could send it for a whole rebuild for about $50.  The rebuild made sense
so I'll have it back in a week.  Just in time for the blueprints to get here.

More as it comes.


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## ex_isp

Shop called today and the cutting torch has all new parts in it.  Ready to rock.  Called the place with the power hammer plans to insure they had received my check... they have.
(I had to check this as I shipped a knife form Phoenix to somewhere in PA on the 7th of this month.  It's STILL sitting in Denver!)

Anyway, likely that I'll have the plans very soon and be able to start detailing the build.  I am SO looking forward to it!


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## ex_isp

Finally moving on this one!  First step is the anvil post.  Acknowledged formula says the anvil should weigh at least 10 time what the hammer does.  Anvil post is 8" dia, 3/8" wall pipe that I will fill with lead wheel weights and sand.
Used to be a vise and grinder stand.  I've cut off the top piece (shelf) and ground off the excess weld material so it's flat.  I failed to get an original photo, so I've propped the cut off piece up with my rebar chipping hammer to show before and after.  The 1" piece of steel on the lower shelf will remain for added strength and as a place to mount interchangeable dies.


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## hman

As for filler materials for the pipe, you might want to consider packing it as tightly as possible with lengths of rebar, then filling the spaces with sand.  Or you could melt the wheel weights and pour the melt into the spaces for a more solid fill (might have to heat the rebar a bit, to keep the lead from solidifying before it got all the way down).  The reason I mention rebar is that it's ABSOLUTELY FREE!  Just go out on the day after the election.  There'll be a brazilian political signs all over the place, required by law to be removed soon after the election.  And here in AZ's clay soil, they're all supported by 5' to 6' lengths of rebar. 

I've always considered political signs fair game after an election, and figure I'm doing all those candidates a favor!  I've talked with a police officer, and he pretty much said he'd have no problem seeing somebody removing the signs.

I carry a pair of Vise-grips, clamp them on the rebar, and use them to rotate and lift.  The corrugated plastic material of the signs themselves is also useful.


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## Tony Wells

A pair of pipe wrenches @ 180° is what I use


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## ex_isp

The rebar is a good suggestion!  But John, I don't know anyone in Brazil...     LOL


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## ex_isp

Today, picked up a 30" piece of cold rolled 1 1/8" round stock that will serve as the crank axle and for the axle for the leaf spring at the top of this contraption that not only moves the hammer but also 
absorbs lots of the shock, helping to prevent the machine from tearing itself apart.  Went to another fellows house over in Scottsdale that has built a hammer.  His machine is tearing apart all the welds
and getting stress cracks in the steel in many places.  Hammer is set too tight.  Unless at full speed, the hammer and anvil should just "kiss", rather than do full force smacks.

Good to see all the things that can go wrong, NOW, before I experience them.  That way, I can build around these potential problems.


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## ex_isp

Welding question...
Frame for the hammer is primarily 4" X 8" X 3/8" wall.  My mig is on the light side for welding this kind of steel so I'm going to borrow the Lincoln buzz box from a 
neighbor.  *60 series rod or 70 series rod?  *should I be going for shear tensile strength or slightly more ductility here?  My thought is 70 series will be slightly more prone to cracking due to the impact related nature of this machine and so 60 series might be advised.

Comments and thoughts?


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## ex_isp

7018 will be the rod.
Today, received the pillow block bearings for the jackshaft, descaled the rod and test fit the bearings.  Getting closer as more pieces show up.

Timken bearings wee $187 ea. while the Asian counter parts were $17.  As much as I hated it, finances forced me to
buy the Asian version.  Got 4 (one extra set).  They come with grease nipples so keeping them wet should make them last a LONG time as the shaft and bearing are 3 times the spec'ed size.  This is one heavy shaft for it's load!  Me likey!


Also built wood base to absorb shock (to save the concrete and dampen noise).  48" X 36", held together with 4 3/8ths" all thread rods drawn down with the air impact.




Will be made totally flat with belt sander for the steel base plate this whole contraption will be welded to.



Next will be female ended ball joint linkage ends (thanks Jim Dawson!) and some 3/4" all thread, (lefty and righty threads for the turnbuckle).


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## ex_isp

Update on welding.  Talked to a trained SeaBees welder tonight (my nephew).  He said, "due to the stress' and impact in the nature of this machine, I would start with a 6011 root pass (deeper penetration) and follow up with filler and cap passes of 7018.  Love it... don't know why it didn't occur to me but that's where training and experience come into play!


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## hman

Suggestion ...
Release the tension on the rods holding the base 2x4s together, place the "finished" machine on top, then re-tighten the rods.  This should get you at least some ways down the path of evenness and flatness.  Then take the machine off and have at it with a belt sander.

You might even want to put a layer of acoustic ceiling tile either between the machine and the wood, or the wood and the floor (or both?)  If nothing else, this might make it just a bit quieter (and lead to fewer complaints from your neighbors)


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## ex_isp

Excellent suggestion John!


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## ex_isp

Really had to fight making orders for final parts today... decided since I am hybridizing the plans for this, I better ponder all the angles.  IE, do I want to drill lubrication points in the pipe pieces that act as pivots, or go with pins that have zerks on the end...?  Threaded rod with turnbuckles or solid rod with hollow pipe in the middle?   Next day or two I'll also acquire spring steel for the top, and get everything at the same time be it ordered or picked up.


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## ex_isp

Sorry for not posting to this thread for a bit but it hasn't gone dead.  Got some orders in (WhooPeeee!) and have been working on cash generation!  Haven't made much progress on this since last post but will be active again soon!
Bunch of guys over this Sat for a knife making demo... will hit them up for some input on a couple of issues.  And still looking for a piece of 1/2" plate (~3' X 4') that I can afford.

Original woodbase construction I used large washers on the all thread to squeeze the 2X4s together... washers sucked right through the wood when I drew it up tight with the impact wrench.  Fixed that today.
Piece of 3 ft by 1/4"  by 2" mild steel strap.  Cut my own 2" X 2" washers, drilled them in the mill and put them under the nuts.  It's TIGHT now!   Have 3 knives to make and ship, then should be able to get progress going again.

More as it comes!

Chris


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## ex_isp

Finally got the anvil post cut to height today and the edges mostly beveled in preparation to weld.  6" piece cut out near the top so the thing will be the right working height.  Rough layout on the base, though the stell plate it will all be welded to in not there yet.  Also still need spare tire and it's bearings, the circular plate that will serve as the crank throw, the connecting rod and leaf spring for the top.  Except for the base plate (heavy) the rest will be inexpensive.

On the top of the post will be a 1" thick plate welded to it.  I'll drill and tap holes in it so I can have interchangeable dies for flat (shaping/squaring) or rounded for drawing out to length.


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## hman

Don't know if you can still find one, but years ago, I went to a junkyard and extracted a front wheel spindle assembly from a Chrysler "K" car. It included the wheel mount with studs, a very good set of bearings, and the spindle, which ended in a flat, square plate.  Very easy to mount.


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## ex_isp

Yeppers!  That's exactly the kind of thing I'll be looking for this week!

Here's one...  The connecting rod providing linkage between the hammer spring (up top) and the "crank throw" on the bottom.  I'm thinking I could probably use a piece of heavy wall black pipe for this.  Something available at just about any hardware store.  Maybe 3/4"... maybe even 1/2" to save weight on this part that has to change direction a lot.  Whudya think?  As opposed to large all thread with turnbuckle... Pipe might be lighter and stronger...?


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## hman

OK!  You might even want use a couple tees on the ends of the pipe to connect it to whatever.  (You can stop by and use my lathe to bore out the threads if needed.)  Just be sure to get the right length of pipe.  Note that Home Depot and other stores have pipe cutting/threading machines, so you can get whatever length you need.


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## ex_isp

As always, thanks John!  Aluminum round came in last night about 5pm.  That's for the driven side of the clutch/tire assembly so I'll contact you in a couple days... end of the week maybe to think about that.

Cheers!

Chris


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## ex_isp

hman found and contributed a bunch of rebar to the project.  Cut them up and stuffed them in the post, to be followed up with sand.  Bought a bag of "playground sand" to dump in there but I guess today, it all
comes wet.  So it been drying on a couple of garbage bags, getting turned every couple hours.  It's getting there but still a touch damp.


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## ex_isp

I think I'll want to thread these on the inside of the pipe with machine thread.  That way, I can have my adjustment for length up at the top and bottom rather than
flipping around in the middle where more flex is likely to occur.  Still thinking about how I want to connect the linkage between the crank plate and the spring at the top.


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## ex_isp

hman said:


> OK!  You might even want use a couple tees on the ends of the pipe to connect it to whatever.  (You can stop by and use my lathe to bore out the threads if needed.)  Just be sure to get the right length of pipe.  Note that Home Depot and other stores have pipe cutting/threading machines, so you can get whatever length you need.



That piece of linkage will be one of the last pieces I install.  Since I am not fully building by plans, I'll build that linkage once everything else is in place.


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## ex_isp

Got the anvil finished today.  Nearby construction manager gave me all the 3 and 4 ft pieces I could fit in the post.  Still added sand
although only used about 1/2 of it.  

Put the post back together with the aforementioned 6011 root, ground clean, 7018 filler and cap.  Both ground clean before overlay.
Cap was big wide sweeping bead an inch wide and burned in well.  All 3 passes at 115 amps AC.  First two were burned in almost to the point of under-cutting..  almost.
3/8th" thick tube.


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## ex_isp

Picked up steel yesterday.  Boy did I pick up steel yesterday.  2ea 4' X 8' X 1/2" plate at ~640 lbs each.  What a job getting them out of this yard and onto the trailer!
Rented the trailer for 4 hrs... that didn't work out so I took it back today and paid for the day (only $10 more).  Had to cut it to be able to set it on the trailer.

So, here's the cut and mostly in place base (wood on bottom the steel).  Had to get this "floor plate" to weld the vertical pieces to.  Should be more progress now.
I'll likely dowel the steel to the wood base plate to keep it from moving around.


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## ex_isp

Here it is two days later and my hands still hurt from handling 300+ lb half sheets.  Arthur is hurting
in previously unknown places!    Got the anvil stand just tacked to the top plate and decided it needs to be forward about 4 to 5 inches.
I'm going to grind those tacks off, layout all the pieces on the plate, then I can see heights for pillow block mounts
as I'll have to weld those on with plate.  I have plenty of steel now!     Start again tomorrow after two
days for the hands to rest!  lol


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## ex_isp

More done finally!!!  Cut off the initial tacks on the anvil post and slid it forward about 7 inches.  That leaves me more room on the platform for other parts to weld or bolt to.  
Today, got the center post cut, layed out and welded in place.  I really need more room.  Crap scattered around so I can barely walk in here.  That will change as some of these
parts begin to move onto the project platform.


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## brino

Great build, thanks for sharing it!
You have definitely gone vertical with this last step forward. It's starting to show how massive this thing will be......I LOVE it!
This is one of those that the neighbours may be surprised about.



ex_isp said:


> I really need more room. Crap scattered around so I can barely walk in here.


I think that is an eternal issue........

I notice a little "clutter" about. Please do be careful with the rugs and cardboard boxes with the welding in the vicinity.
I understand we all work with what we have, but play safe....I want to see this finished and operational........safely!

-brino


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## ex_isp

Point well taken and stated Brino!
Wed, I picked up a rear wheel hub/bearing and tire/rim from a VW Jetta.  Next is to weld the axle shaft into the hub.  The other end of the axle is where the crankshaft plate will mount.  That plate will have a center hole (for the axle) and an offset hole (3") that will make the connecting rod go up and down, pushing the leaf spring up and down, operating the hammer.  Got a 3 leaf spring (97 dodge truck) and removed the center spring.  Reversed the small spring and sucked them down tight with all thread rod.  While still held with the all thread, I stuck the assembled (now flat) spring in my big vise, added a large c-clamp to the top so I could take the all thread out and install the grade 8 bolt and washers that will hold that spring together in operation.  The reason for turning the small leaf around was specifically to straighten the assembly.  Still need to make the connecting rod throws which will be sched 80 black steel pipe with grade 8 3/4" bolts through them.   All rotating points will either be tapped for grease zerks or simply drilled for oil holes if clearance doesn't allow for a zerk, or the attachment of a grease gun.

Should have another photo or two tomorrow.


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## ex_isp

Additionally, I can say that most fires in blacksmith shops are not started by the forge, but by sparks from either grinding or hammering the hot steel.
Again Brino, a good tip for all to remember!  I like your thinking and powers of observation!


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## brino

ex_isp,

I am glad my comment was taken in the spirit it was intended....not as nag or a shot, but as an "I care!"

It reminded me of this:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/goofs-blunders-you-should-avoid.49036/page-9#post-437658
one of my personal encounters with welding sparks.....

-brino


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## ex_isp

Taken exactly as intended bud!  And it's something I'm constantly aware of.  Fire extinguisher on hand.


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## ex_isp

Couple more parts made... getting closer (FINALLY!).   Got the clutch/contact-wheel/drive-thingy done with the help of hman and his lathe.  Flatfaced both ends of the shaft (3" aluminum round stock), bored a hole for the motor shaft and turned it to diameter.  I decided that I wasn't comfortable with the strength of the aluminum for the set screw that secures the key so I punched a hole in the side and ran a threaded steel insert down the hole.  Have two set screws so the outer one will lock the inner one.



Also bored a 1" hole in the other end that will receive a bearing to support and stabilize this contraption.

Made the top pivot that allows the leaf spring to move.  Pipe is sched 80 steel, gas pipe.  Oil hole in side of pipe.



Then ground out sides where the axle supports come up.


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## ex_isp

Minus the support ears being cut and welded on, this is what the spring assembly will look like.  Spring was 3 leaf off a Dodge pickup.  Took the center leaf out and turned over the bottom leaf... that made the spring pretty flat.
All grade 8 hardware here.


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## ex_isp

Sorry no updates this week as I've been dealing with a sick pup.  My 12 yr old boy just developed Myasthenia Gravis that has paralyzed his throat and left him unable to keep food or water down.   I built an incline ramp 4' X 4' and put his bed on it so he doesn't slide off.  It has a rise of 1' in 4' of run.  This allows gravity to carry the food past his stomach so he can keep it down.  It's working and bought him a while longer in comfort but is taking 45 mins to an hour after very small feedings, 5 times a day.  He is remaining comfortable and able to keep his food down.

The condition has resulted in "megaesophagus".  See here: http://www.vetstreet.com/care/megaesophagus


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## ex_isp

Still no new work done here though I have a couple pieces being fabbed that should be ready soon.  
My son (pup-12 yrs)  is still with us though he's having a rough time of it.  His last day with us will
be this Thurs afternoon when he will join our Maker.  Will be back on project full force after that.
Thanks to all for comments and patience thus far on the hammer thread!

Chris


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## T Bredehoft

If there are no pets in Heaven, I'm not going.


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## ex_isp

John 3:16  "For God so loved the world that he gave his one and only Son, that whoever believes in him shall not perish but have eternal life."
He didn't say man, he said the world.  That would include man, dogs, cats, ants, plants...

Not to get all evangelical or anything, but this brings me comfort.

Anyone remember Twilight Zone episode 84, "The Hunt"?


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## ch2co

ex_isp   I remember that (and quite a few other) Twilight Zones. That is a good one. thanks for the memories.
Sorry to hear about your friend. It's never an easy thing to go through. I have been fortunate to have had two canine
friends that lasted for over 18 years each. Its been 15 years since the last one left us, and hardly a day goes by that
I don't think about some aspect or event that brings her close to me again. 

CHuck the grumpy old guy

PS     ex_isp  ?? not an internet service provider any more??


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## ex_isp

You called it right with internet service provider.  Some have asked "illinois state police"?
Was back in the dialup days.  Did hosting, secure/spamfree email, and support in 50 states.  Had more
phone numbers than MSN and AOL combined.... at one time.  Painted myself into a corner when I set the biz up.  Wanted to be the ISP that I thought all the other turds SHOULD be.  Was open 7 days/wk, 9 til 9.
Lost my life, my mind, and almost my wife.  Was one man show for about 7 years.  DSL and cable hit
too soon after startup and I didn't yet have the customer base/income to expand.  Growth dropped off
to a trickle then started to decline so I sold the customer base and moved to AZ.
Have kept the domain all these years... FastWires.net.  Put a page back up just last week.  See if somebody wants
to buy it...  I won't use it again and it hasn't cost much to keep it alive these years.  I know if I had let it expire,
I'd have seen it online the NEXT DAY for $5000!  Figure I can get $750 for it quick and easy.


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## Tony Wells

I remember switching from dialup to ISDN. WOW that was fast! But of course, that's obsolete now. But out here in the sticks where I live, I still don't have true broadband. I am on a WISP, and I refuse to go satellite. Maybe someday something better will come along, but it's all I can do now. And no, I'm not going 4G either.


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## FOMOGO

Sorry to hear about your buddy. Mike


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## ch2co

Tony wrote "I remember switching from dialup to ISDN"
I remember when we tied my PDP 8e computer onto a dial up 300 baud acoustic coupler and communicated over the phone lines using a teletype machine. No stinkin' video screen or nothin.  First played ZORK on this set up, after hours of course. 
But then I also remember having to rub two sticks together to light a fire and send smoke signals. That was in my younger days when I was tryin' to impress all the girls. 

CHuck the grumpy old guy


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## ex_isp

Yesterday and today, got some more done... AND orders for 7 knives!!!!  BIG SMILE!!!  Needed some cash flow badly!
Here's a couple more photos.

Hammer guide post... again, 6011 root with 7018 filler/cap.



Hub tacks to make it solid with the jackshaft



 Hub adaptor


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## ex_isp

Assembled shaft (minus the tire) and the spring assembly mounted on top of the machine.


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## ex_isp

All built parts mounted


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## eric chilton

what happen to the rest of the build ?


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## higgite

That's a good question, Eric, but the OP was last seen here 2 years ago according to his profile. 

Tom


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## eric chilton

i was following along so i can see how he made his ...i was thinking about making one for my shop..... and another for the welding supply guy that wants to start making knives ........well maybe life got in the way? ill check back later to see if he post more ...i hope nothing happen to him.........seems like a nice guy ............


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## Latinrascalrg1

Wow, i was excited to see a finished machine!  I hope the OP is ok and was able to finish the project and just got too busy with the knife orders to post up how things came out!

Is there anyone still here who may have some first hand Knowledge  with this hammer project?   More specifically (maybe the OP stated and I just missed it) Does anyone know if the OP packed the entire frame with sand/rebar/lead or was that specifically just for the Anvil portion?  If not would packing the entire frame be beneficial or would it just make it harder to move because  of the weight?  Im sorta thinking that packing the entire frame would have a noise dampening effect but I've zero experience with one of these machines!


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