# My Latest 1340-GT Mods



## marcusp323 (Jan 20, 2017)

Wanted to get a bit more stability than I had with the 4 leg setup, & seeing as how I was going to move the lathe out for a motor swap, (picked up a Marathon Black Max for $65 used ), figured I'd see what I could do. Had a few pieces of 2x2 in 20" lengths, & a couple 55" or so to. Decided to weld the smaller ones to the existing bases & use some feet I already had. That worked out well enough, but thought I might as well fill the big hole with something useful. Picked up the tool box from Home Depot, closest thing I could find that would fit the way I set up the stand. Yup, coulda done things otherwise, but chose not to & make do with what's on hand. Think I spent around $210 for the new tool box including the drawer liner material. Wife even cut that up for me, gotta like that! Drawers are rated at 100lb ea too, there's a bonus. I'm satisfied (for now) & ready to start filling her up. Shoulda took pics along the way, I know, but oh well...............
Mark


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## marcusp323 (Jan 20, 2017)

Before anybody chastises me, no, I don't care about the little bits of rust showing either. Maybe if I decide to go all out next time, I'll bother to clean it.
Mark


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## microshop dinker (Jan 20, 2017)

Nicely crafted, minimalistic and stable!! Surface rust, no problem w/later cleanup.  One-shot oiler on the cabinet end??    Sammy


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## marcusp323 (Jan 20, 2017)

Yup, got that idea from another GT-1340 thread, but can't recall which one. I'm sure somebody will chime in.
Mark


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## tweinke (Jan 20, 2017)

At times functional vs pretty is the perfect answer, especially if it suits you! I have at times put things together" as a "prototype" and ended up satisfied enough to not make a pretty version.


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## TakeDeadAim (Jan 20, 2017)

The only issue I see is that you have reduced your ability to level and "dial in" any taper your lathe may cut by tying the headstock and tail stock leveling jacks into one unit.  

There are two sets of jacks under the head to allow you to make minimal adjustments to the relationship between the centerline of your spindle and the machines ways. 

I had similar stability concerns with my lathe but created three separate jack mount bars that go perpendicular to the axis of the spindle but are not connected to each other.


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## mksj (Jan 21, 2017)

marcusp323 said:


> Yup, got that idea from another GT-1340 thread, but can't recall which one. I'm sure somebody will chime in.


http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/pm1340gt-gearbox-pump-oiler-system.37284/
Makes it much  easier to get uniform oiling, several different variations on how to do it, but you need at least 4 or more oil ports on your distribution manifold and makes sure with 2 pumps that the oil flow gets to all the drip holes (including the the bearing oil hole in the back right). A friend welded up a small drip pan that goes under the gears, which works great.


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## marcusp323 (Jan 21, 2017)

TakeDeadAim said:


> The only issue I see is that you have reduced your ability to level and "dial in" any taper your lathe may cut by tying the headstock and tail stock leveling jacks into one unit.



In regards to this, I leveled the lathe prior to bolting on the pieces that run lengthwise, & the holes have plenty of wiggle room, so that really shouldn't be an issue in this case. I could be wrong, of course. Besides, what else would I mount that tool box on? 
Mark


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## pstemari (Jan 21, 2017)

Are you able to open the drawers on that tool box without the top lid being open? That was a nuisance on my old c'man chest.

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## marcusp323 (Jan 21, 2017)

That turned out to be an easy work-around. Pulled the pins & set them under the notch that would normally drop to lock the drawers. Didn't have to do anything else, the lid still closes fine. Oh, there's enough room left to keep stuff in there too. Right now it's got a bunch of clamps in it, but I'm rearranging the shop, tool boxes, shelves, etc, so we'll see what REALLY ends up in the dark recess of the upper end 
Mark


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