# My first milling machine, Atlas MFB. Getting ready to restore, although maybe it doesn't need it?



## kilohertz (Feb 26, 2022)

A friend of mine is moving and he is selling all of his machinery and tooling so I went there this past week with an empty truck and a fistful of dollars and spent about $2,000. One of the key items was this little, which I knew nothing about until I started reading about it here, the more I read the more intrigued I became. I managed to get it out of the truck with the Bobcat and son is coming to help me get into the shop today. I forgot to check the model but I'm pretty sure it's the MFC. I'll attach a few pics then some more after I get it into the shop. I know it has the original motor and it came with a fair bit of tooling which I will post pics of as well, as some of it is new to me.

More later.

Cheers


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## matthewsx (Feb 26, 2022)

I’d lube it up and see how it runs. Pretty rare to find one with the belt covers intact, post up more pictures once you have it in the shop.

I’m sure the experts will be here soon with real advise.

John


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## wa5cab (Feb 26, 2022)

Assuming for the moment that it is all original, it is not an MFC as although it is missing the Overarm Guard which the M*C does not have.   But it has the earlier Overarm Support found on the M*B and back.  I think that were it one of MH, MHA or MHB that the vertical position lever would be visible.  Beyond that, you show no photos of the left side which would show whether it was an M1* or an MF* (manual or power cross feed).  And you will have to remove the spindle belt guard in order to tell whether it is an unlettered, A or B model  Which would have 4, 3 or 2 groove cone pulleys respectively. 

So add some photos of the left side and of the spindle and counter shaft pulleys. and we will then be able to ID it.

Also, it should have a nameplate on the left side which would have the original model and serial number.


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## jwmay (Feb 26, 2022)

Congratulations! I don't know what it is precisely, but do tell us what you think of it. I'd hold off on restoration work until you've spent some time with it. But that's because most of my regretful behavior occurred while I was brand new to this hobby. Some of those decisions couldn't be reversed later, when I learned I hadn't quite made the best decision about this or that.


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## Janderso (Feb 26, 2022)

Hey that’s sweet.
Nice score man.
Keep the pics coming.


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## cross thread (Feb 26, 2022)

Nice , looks like all it needs is a clean up . Check out the Marvin head . Or there is a guy that sells one just like the Marvin but not as cool .









						NEW ATLAS MILLING MACHINE VERTICAL MILLING HEAD WITH R8 SPINDLE
					

MyMachineShop.Net offers machinist tools and tooling with a specialty in Atlas Craftsman Lathes ans Milling Machines. Starrett, Mitutoyo and other fine tools. Atlas lathe parts and Accessories especially for the Home Shop Machinist and industry. Many parts not listed from my large inventory...



					www.mymachineshop.net
				



Also check this out . http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlasmiller/index.html


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## kilohertz (Feb 26, 2022)

Thanks guys!

I didn't get a chance to take any more pics today as I was busy moving the rest of the work benches drill press and such, but I did get it moved to my workbench and found it is an MFB, remember this is all new to me and I just thought it looked like and MFC from the few pics I have looked at. I'll have time tomorrow to take some closeup pics and post them here and go thru a few more things on it. I know there are a few loose/cracked controls, the dial/knobs that you move the table with, all repairable though. It probably just needs a good cleaning and re-lube. I looked under the covers and its lubed but seems dirty looking, like it hasn't been serviced in years. 

More tomorrow.

Cheers


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## kilohertz (Feb 26, 2022)

Ok you asked for pictures, so I'll give you pictures. I had a few minutes while dinner was cooking so I went out to the shop and snapped some pics.

Let me know what you think. After looking at the pics, maybe it's not as dirty as I thought. I do see some chipped teeth on the edge of some gears, probably not too detrimental.

Thanks everyone for the warm welcome.

Cheers


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## wa5cab (Feb 27, 2022)

Looks pretty clean.  Probably made in late 1945.  The only things that I see obviously missing are the overarm guard and the right table feed handwheel.  And a little bit to fix there.


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## JPMacG (Feb 27, 2022)

Very nice!  It has an intact backgear handle.  It is unusual to find a backgear handle that is not broken.  And it has the auto-feed kickout.  They are usually missing.


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## ConValSam (Feb 27, 2022)

Super nice score! Have fun with it.


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## kilohertz (Feb 27, 2022)

Thank you everyone, I appreciate your input, I am learning a lot. Found all the manuals for it and will start reading today and take it for a test spin this afternoon.

I have a few questions, what is the preferred lube these days for spindle, backgear shaft etc.?  1945 was a long time ago and lubricants have changed. I think 20W was mentioned somewhere, can't recall. I use AW32 or 46 on my Hercus lathe spindle and slides.

The cracked hand wheel, the crack looks older but we bumped the handle when moving it and I have the missing little piece that came out. I assume this is pot metal or similar un-weldable material, could this be a job for JB Weld or similar?

Thanks again for all of your help.

Cheers


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## NCjeeper (Feb 27, 2022)

Nice find. Looks to be in nice shape other than the minor things which can be easily fixed.


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## JPMacG (Feb 27, 2022)

The preferred lube is 20W non-detergent oil.  That can be hard to find.  Try your local hardware store.   The handle is die cast Zamac.  I don't know if Zamac is weldable.  It has a low melting temperature.  Used Atlas handles can be found on Ebay.  The same handle was used on some Atlas lathes, which are more common.   Another option is to buy a new handle from McMaster-Carr or your equivalent in Canada and machine it to fit.


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## matthewsx (Feb 27, 2022)

This is what I use for oil, it’s iso 68 hydraulic oil and something similar should be available at your local auto supply. 




			https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/vp-racing-lubricants-ultra-j20a-plus-utility-tractor-fluid-5-gal-vp2040114
		


Try not to overthink it, this is a pretty undemanding application for oil and having plenty is more important than having a specific kind.

John


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## kilohertz (Feb 27, 2022)

matthewsx said:


> This is what I use for oil, it’s iso 68 hydraulic oil and something similar should be available at your local auto supply.  John



Thanks John,

I have 7 pieces of heavy equipment here, all with hydraulics so I have 20L pails in the shop.  That's pretty much what I use in my lathes except I use 46, I have it loaded in my squirt can so will continue to use that. As you mention, not critical.

Cheers


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## Janderso (Feb 27, 2022)

kilohertz said:


> Thanks guys!
> 
> I didn't get a chance to take any more pics today as I was busy moving the rest of the work benches drill press and such, but I did get it moved to my workbench and found it is an MFB, remember this is all new to me and I just thought it looked like and MFC from the few pics I have looked at. I'll have time tomorrow to take some closeup pics and post them here and go thru a few more things on it. I know there are a few loose/cracked controls, the dial/knobs that you move the table with, all repairable though. It probably just needs a good cleaning and re-lube. I looked under the covers and its lubed but seems dirty looking, like it hasn't been serviced in years.
> 
> ...


You’ve been a member for four years.
Don’t be bashful, we would love to hear more about your shop, your projects and more about you.
Cheers mate,
Jeff


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## kilohertz (Mar 1, 2022)

Today I made time to have a good look at the MFB and found a few things of concern. I powered it up and it seemed to run fine, but noisy, found 2 pulleys loose, tightened and better now. I tried various speeds on the motor pulleys and found it won't start up on the highest speed, even with coaxing. If it really has Timken spindle bearings, they need cleaning, very grumbly and possibly too tight. I need to read the manual to find out how to service them. Also the knee axis is VERY stiff, not sure if it's the ways or the lead screw nut...I made a few videos to let you hear the sounds it's making.

Look forward to your thoughts.

cheers

Noisy MFB

More noisy MFB

MFB running

back gear pin play??


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## ub27Rocks (Mar 1, 2022)

Looks decent.
Push oil through all the lube locations, and check that the spindle bearings are adjusted properly. It is unlikely to have been used much.

BTW, the LH table and vertical feed handles/wheel are swapped which will contribute to struggle when raising the knee.

The noisy sounds are from the longitudinal feed mechanism/gear train (at back of machine). There is a 3 position level that should be in mid detent when not using the auto feed. At some point it is worth removing that whole assembly (only 3 bolts IIRC) and cleaning/regreasing what is in there. Also gives you access to the spindle preload nut at the same time.


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## kilohertz (Mar 1, 2022)

I have watched a youtube video on how to dismantle the machine and I have a question regarding the removal of the arbor and morse taper unit. I have loosened the drawbar and gently tapped the end of it but the shaft isn't budging. How hard can this be hit without doing damage? I am using a wood block and small hammer.  Also, what is the best way to remove the drive dog, the 2 slot arbor driver unit. It has a hole for a wrench but I don't have the wrench, it looks like many people have used a round punch to loosen it. Can I use the back gear to keep it from rotating or is that asking for trouble.  Or the bull gear and it's pin?

Appreciate the help.

Cheers


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## kilohertz (Mar 1, 2022)

Well I got the arbor / drawbar out, used a little piece of exhaust pipe that JUST fit over the arbor driver pins and landed on the collar, used a couple of washers and one of the arbor spacers and the arbor nut and engaged the back gear and held the pulley with my hand and cranked a half turn or so then popped the drawbar with a brass hammer and she popped right off.

I have dismantled the table and removed the knee and think I found the source of grumbliness, the helix gears which translate the handwheel to the vertical shaft, are a little rough, one has a some small steel bits ground into the teeth so I'm going to use a fine tip polishing stone on the Dremel to try to remove them. The axial gears, the shaft within a shaft are nice and clean, greased them and reassembled.

I still need to find a way to get the arbor driver off, maybe it would be best to wait until I get the spindle out??

Any ideas on best way to remove the arbor driver?

Thanks again for the help.

Cheers


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## kilohertz (Mar 1, 2022)

Lots more updates.

I got the spindle out, races look well abused, I'm going to replace both bearings...the left inner seal was missing which explains all the oil in the bottom of the machine. I need to find a replacement seal, internet search he we come.  Also, the bull gear set screw was missing which explains why the gear was wondering around and coming out of lock, chased the threads and it seems to be 1/4-20. All the little details will work out as I proceed.

Cheers


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## wa5cab (Mar 6, 2022)

First, there are no seals on any Timken bearing on any Atlas built machine.  There should be a dust cover pressed into the headstock casting on each side of each tapered roller bearing.  The insides of every Atlas headstock should have a liberal coating of SAE 20 or ISO 68 slung onto it.  Plus the gear teeth should show evidence of having a coating of high temperature grease.

The arbor driver is probably thoroughly stuck.  You can try two leather strap wrenches but I would be surprised if that broke it loose.  Whatever you do, DON'T touch the spindle itself with any steel tool.  I would suggest making a split clamp of two pieces of 3/4" thick aluminum flat bar.  It should fit where the rear smaller cone normally resides.  Grab that, with the spindle installed, in a large bench vise.  Make another tool that fits the two drive pins on the arbor driver.  The other end if this tool should preferably fit either a large 6-point socket or have a square hole to directly fit the output of a large air impact gun.  Dry ice on the spindle and heat on the arbor driver will also help.


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## kilohertz (Mar 6, 2022)

Another update...I managed to get the arbor driver off with very little effort.  I put the spindle in the chuck of my lathe, grabbing it where the bull gear would sit, ran it at low speed with a propane torch flame warming the driver collar, stopped it and tapped it with a round punch in the hole meant for that and it popped free, easy peasy (and lucky).

I decided to reuse the Timken bearings after cleaning them and I have installed the spindle and set the bearings, it runs really smooth now and is much quieter, no rumble or grumble anymore. I also found that the bronze oilite bushings on the cone pulley on the spindle are worn and there is some play on the shaft. I will deal that later, hopefully new bushings are still available.

Planning on reassembling the rest of it today, shouldn't be too difficult. I found a suitable replacement for the missing inner shield, it worked perfectly..

Thanks again for the guidance.

Cheers


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## wa5cab (Mar 6, 2022)

...  also found that the bronze oilite bushings on the cone pulley on the spindle are worn and there is some play on the shaft. I will deal that later, hopefully new bushings are still available.

If you found the sintered bronze bushings in the cone pulley were worn, then most likely those in a similar location on the countershaft probably are as well.  And should also be replaced.  They are a little smaller than the ones on the spindle but subjected to the same loads.  If I recall correctly, only a few years ago, Clausing Industrial still had some of the bushings in stock but not all of them.  The spindle bushings are the same as on the 6" lathes and we don't have the drawings.  So probably those are the ones that they still had.


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