# New to me: Craftsman 101.27440 lathe.



## Orangecrush

Hello good members, 

I have already posted a thread about my Atlas horizontal milling machine. So I thought I would post a thread about my Craftsman lathe. I bought both of them from a guy off of Craigslist who really didn't know what he had. Needless to say I got both the mill and lathe and a bunch of tooling for a really nice price!!!

So here are a few pictures of the lathe for your enjoyment.


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## Ulma Doctor

Congratulations Orangecrush!
sweet lathe you got there!
the QCGB is a beautiful feature to have.


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## Orangecrush

Hello Ulma,

Yes I really like the lathe and everything that came with the deal. As you can see in the pictures I got most if not all the stuff for it except the milling attachment. But I don't need that because I already have a Grizzly G0704 vertical milling machine and my new Atlas horizontal mill that I got with the lathe.


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## Orangecrush

Orangecrush said:


> Hello good members,
> 
> I have already posted a thread about my Atlas horizontal milling machine. So I thought I would post a thread about my Craftsman lathe. I bought both of them from a guy off of Craigslist who really didn't know what he had. Needless to say I got both the mill and lathe and a bunch of tooling for a really nice price!!!
> 
> So here are a few pictures of the lathe for your enjoyment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 240304
> View attachment 240306
> View attachment 240307



Also if I might add, where is everyone getting there QCTP's? I would assume Shars because they have the best prices?


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## Ulma Doctor

Well you are on your way! Great start!

I got a shars piston AXA set on my Shenwai they work fine
I got a wedge  AXA import post too, that is on the Hercus ARH.
I also have a Hess piston AXA as a backup.
I can interchange toolholders as needed

Take a look at bostar too!


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## Orangecrush

Ulma Doctor said:


> Well you are on your way! Great start!
> 
> I got a shars piston AXA set on my Shenwai they work fine
> I got a wedge  AXA import post too, that is on the Hercus ARH.
> I also have a Hess piston AXA as a backup.
> I can interchange toolholders as needed
> 
> Take a look at bostar too!



Are you talking about the Shars AXA-100 for $160 bucks?


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## Ulma Doctor

Sounds like the one i got


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## Ulma Doctor

here is a set on sale on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shars-6-12-...749473&hash=item4d0f1a6eea:g:2fYAAOSwjVVVtmPg


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## Orangecrush

Hello good members,

Question of the day, now that I have this lathe. I have not done anything to clean it up or do much to it yet. So what should be the first thing I do, start cleaning it or should I do a complete tear down and rebuild like I did with my Atlas horizontal mill?


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## wa5cab

Whatever floats your boat.  It'll look better repainted but it won't run any better.


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## Orangecrush

LoL Robert,

Sounds like something you are dealing with right now ( floating a boat that is)!!! LoL

Anyway, the reason I ask is that I have the lathe just sitting here ever since I bought it. It took a good part of 2 months to get my Atlas horizontal mill rebuilt. And I really don't want to do all that again"if" I don't have to. I've gone over the lathe and it doesn't look like it needs much more than a good cleaning and going through. Like the Atlas horizontal mill, the gears are covered in old grease and saw dust. So obviously all the gears need to be cleaned up and regreased. Then there is the carriage and compound that I need to go through and clean.

So I guess what I am asking is, for those that have been through this process of getting a new (to you) lathe. And it was not quite usable when you got it. What was the first thing you did to get it in working condition? I'm thinking about getting the gears cleaned first, then work on the carriage and compound.

Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you,

Orangecrush


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## wa5cab

Yep.  Or at least for a while, I thought that I might have to!  I have never that I can recall encountered rain falling at that rate.

As I've said before, a new paint job certainly looks nice.  But doesn't usually make the machine run any better.  If you don't want to do a restoration to new right now, I would probably do it in the order Bed & Legs, Headstock, including gears, Tailstock, carriage and lead screw.


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## Orangecrush

Hello Robert,

Yeah, you are probably right. Start with the lathe stand and move up from there. But if I start to clean up the lathe stand, that would mean I would have to take the lathe off the stand I'm guessing. And if you look at the pictures I posted in my first post. You can see that the lathe stand is in no way original, it looks more like a bunch of welded pipe with a couple of plywood boards for the top and bottom. Those plywood boards are 3/4" thick and if anything the top one needs to be replaced with something more stout.

I was thinking about replacing the top board with something like a 1,1/2" to 2" butcher block. Unless someone else here knows of a better idea of what to put for the top piece? Or should I just make a new lathe stand? You can't tell from the pictures, but the lathe stand is not very wide, I'd say it's about 16" to 18" wide. And with all the weight of the lathe, I'm afraid that it might fall over? 

Last night I started to work on the carriage and compound. I kind of want to take off the carriage and get it cleaned up. Because the all the exposed gears (not the spindle) are covered in oil grease and saw dust. So I can only imagine how much crud is in the carriage assembly. Plus (like the mill) it will give me a better idea of the inside workings in the carriage. Right now I can get the feed to work on the Leadscrew, but for some reason the cross feed will not in gauge? So that is something else I need to figure out?


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## Orangecrush

Well, here's a little update on my progress with the Atlas Craftsman Lathe.

I did end up taking off the carriage assembly and gave it a good cleaning. But when I was cleaning the miter gears for the cross slide. I noticed that the one miter gear with the KEY in it was stripped off. So if I want power feed for the cross slide I'll have to buy a new one. But for now I am just going to put it back together until I can find a good miter gear.

Next I took off the QCGB. Man what I mess with all the old grease and saw dust. So I ended up hanging it on my garage door and spraying it with brake cleaner. That kind of worked, but I still need to get into the gears and get them cleaned. There is no way I am going to take it apart with all those gears. But if anyone has been through this process before. Maybe you could chime in and tell me how you cleaned up your QCGB.


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## westerner

Mine too, was very dirty AND very loose from lack of lube. Before disassembling mine, I stared into it while fiddling with the gears until I understood how the power flows thru. Then I took several pics as it came apart.
Note that some gears are keyed to the shaft, while others are not. 
Note the shims/washers in some places to allow a gear on one shaft to run between gears on another shaft. 
The collars and setscrews that locate/ retain shafts and gears have raised burrs on the shafts. Nothing you can do but drive the shafts out, and file the burrs down.
There were ZERO bushings in the housing, shafts running in the cast iron bore. I borrowed a buddie's mill to bore the housing on the output end for oilite bushings. Good thing, too, because the bore was so wallowed out, the gears were meshing WAY OUT on their teeth
At least they are STEEL gears. On assembly, you will stack the gears into the housing, THEN run the shafts thru.
Go for it. It's not too tough, and a picture tells a thousand words. Your lathe will thank you.


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## dlane

When I did a SB heavy 10 QCGB , I took pics , wired tied gear stacks together in order, more pics, 
cleaned Lubed reassembled,


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## Orangecrush

Thank you for the replies guys,

I really don't want to have to take it apart to clean up the QCGB. Mainly because I don't want to mess with the gears. Even though pictures would help me a lot and is a great idea (that is what I did when I rebuilt my Atlas horizontal mill). On my lathe I really just want to get it cleaned up and running again.

So this is what I did last night. I took the QCGB and put it in a plastic container with some mineral spirits. With a brass brush and some picks I was able to get all the gears cleaned up pretty good. Took me about 3 hours to get it clean, but it's done for now. Think all I'm going to do now is paint it and put it aside until I get the rest of the gears cleaned up.

So my next adventure will be to clean up the gears for the forward and reverse tumbler lever. I still need to remove the 9-427 pulley so I can take off the upper and lower gear guard cover. Which is the only way to remove the 9-92A hinge pin.

Any suggestions on the above mentioned would be appreciated.


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## Rob

Clausing still sells the miter gear. The new ones are made with leaded steel. As I recall just over $100 dollars.


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## Orangecrush

Yeah, I was thinking about calling Clausing and see if they still had any leftovers of the keyed miter gear. There is a couple of them on eBay right now and from the pictures they look pretty good. But again they are asking about the same $$$ as Clausing. But for now I'm just going to put the carriage assembly back together. It's a nice option to have but how often do you use the cross slide feed anyways?

Right now I just want to get the lathe cleaned up. Once I'm done with all the cleaning and getting everything dialed in. I'll go back to the miter gear issue and deal with it. Because who knows what I will find that needs to be replaced!!! LoL


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## wa5cab

If you find yourself doing a lot of facing, you will miss not having the power cross feed.  If you do little or none, you won't miss it very often.


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## opus66

Orangecrush said:


> Yeah, I was thinking about calling Clausing and see if they still had any leftovers of the keyed miter gear. There is a couple of them on eBay right now and from the pictures they look pretty good. But again they are asking about the same $$$ as Clausing. But for now I'm just going to put the carriage assembly back together. It's a nice option to have but how often do you use the cross slide feed anyways?
> 
> Right now I just want to get the lathe cleaned up. Once I'm done with all the cleaning and getting everything dialed in. I'll go back to the miter gear issue and deal with it. Because who knows what I will find that needs to be replaced!!! LoL


I actually found a set of half nuts for my 12 inch craftsman yesterday on amazon. I think it was coming from sears parts direct.


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## westerner

Have you guys found www.mymachineshop.net ? sales@mymachineshop.net ? Joel there is parting many craftsman/atlas machines. He has treated me very fairly.


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## westerner

Clausing or Sears has some parts, but you need to be current on your blood pressure meds, AND sitting when you inquire


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## Ulma Doctor

Orangecrush said:


> But for now I'm just going to put the carriage assembly back together. It's a nice option to have but how often do you use the cross slide feed anyways?



i use the crossfeeding feature constantly for facing operations.
you'll have a hard time matching the constant rate of the crossfeed in pertinence to surface finish.
all can be overcome in differing ways, but don't underestimate capability, my friend!
if you keep searching, you'll find parts or a donor machine.


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## westerner

Joel's ebay store has been down for a few months, but the last time I spoke with him, he made no mention of retirement. Does it seem I am running my post count up?


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## Orangecrush

Ulma Doctor said:


> i use the crossfeeding feature constantly for facing operations.
> you'll have a hard time matching the constant rate of the crossfeed in pertinence to surface finish.
> all can be overcome in differing ways, but don't underestimate capability, my friend!
> if you keep searching, you'll find parts or a donor machine.



Ulma Doctor,

You are correct that trying to match the constant rate of the crossfeed by hand to a good finish. Is some what impossible but can be done. I'm still looking for a miter gear for the crossfeed. But so far the only crossfeed miter gears I have seen for sale. The people selling them must think that they are made out of gold with the prices they are asking.

And most of the time you can't just buy the miter gear alone. They sell the whole assembly when I only need the one part. But I'll keep looking, sooner or later one will show up that doesn't cost a arm and a leg.


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## Rob

westerner said:


> Clausing or Sears has some parts, but you need to be current on your blood pressure meds, AND sitting when you inquire



I have found that Clausing's price on most items that I have purchased not that bad.  I purchased new half nuts from them for about $35.  That is about 1/2 what they run for used ones on EBay.  Several other items are also cheaper or the same as EBay, others are a lot more.  It pays to check there prices before purchasing items elsewhere. The parts from Clausing are also new and not used.   Sears also carries new parts for your lathe but there prices are also more than what Clausing charges.


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## Orangecrush

Well, here's a brain twister for you guys.

The motor on my lathe, I can't find out who made the damn thing. The name plate says "International Metal Products" model A-9212 and on the bottom of the name plate it says " Delco Products Div of General Motors Co. Ohio".

But for the life of me I can't find any information on this motor???


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## markba633csi

Might be a replacement. Is it working OK? Not knowing the HP rating isn't all that important as long as it works
Mark S.


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## Orangecrush

Yeah, it works. But it's old and needs a good cleaning. It's rated at 1/3 hp with 1725 rpm so it should be fine for the lathe. I would just like to know a little more about the motor and can't seem to find any information on it.


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## Ulma Doctor

what information on the motor are you looking for??


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## Orangecrush

Not really looking for information on the motor. The motor has all the information on the name plate. What I am looking for is to see if there is any information on the internet about the motor. You would think in this day and age with the world wide web/internet. I would be able to find some sort of information about the motor I have.

But I have looked using International Metal Products (which is the name on the top of the name plate), then, Delco Products Div of General Motors Co. Adding the model number (A-9212), Serial number (D-56), Type (S P), then there is a (P: code), 6.1 amps, 1/3 HP, RPM 1725.

I just wanted to get a little more information about the motor and what it is used for. And being that it is made by one of the above manufacturers. I would have thought that there is at least some information about it on the internet. Or that maybe someone here might know something about this old motor.

I'm assuming that it was made back in the 40's or 50's. Because there is no information about a company called International Metal Products, except for a company that makes products specializing in precision metal stamping.


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## Ulma Doctor

it was most likely produced for Delco under license.
1/3 hp general purpose motors are commonly used in fans, pumps, and conveyors.
look for oiling holes, that may be indicative of age too
a lot of early motors had oilers with spring loaded caps


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## Orangecrush

I'll have to take some pictures of it so you can get a better idea of what I am talking about. But the motor does have a couple of holes on each side that look like they could be for oiling? For now I'm going to call it the mystery motor from hell. Because I can't find any information on it and right now it looks like hell. LoL

I took it off the mounting bracket, so I can clean it up a bit. But that is the kind of information I'm looking for, the oilers if that is what they are. Wiring is another issue I would like to know about. It is currently wired, but I need to replace the wiring because it is so old that it's starting to come apart. And I want to find out if I can wire it up with a forward and reverse switch.

With no information to go by, I don't know to mess anything up. And I really want to take it apart and check out just how dirty it is inside.


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## Ulma Doctor

another indication of age is the insulation on the wires.
if it has what appears to be cloth insulation, there is not much you can do with the motor- it poses an electrical and fire hazzard
if the wiring is more modern, you may be able to replace sections up to the windings- but you may want to inspect the varnish on the windings and wiring
if it is brittle and coming off, that is another indication of a faulty motor.
if you can take a picture or 2 of the beast as it is wired, we may be able to wire up a directional control circuit for the motor.

if the motor is under power now you could run it without a belt and check performance by a quick plug in.

motors are not rocket science to disassemble.
discharge start/run capacitors, if equipped
remove the pulley from the shaft
mark the endcaps in relation to the center winding housing
remove the long endcap bolts
gently tap the endcaps off, being careful to be gentle on any wiring encountered
the rotor can then be removed from the winding housing
inspect and reverse operation to reassemble


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## Orangecrush

Thank you Ulma Doctor / Mike,

You have been very helpful. I'm going to take my time and go over everything with this motor. Like I said before, it runs fine (nice and quiet) but I want to clean it up a bit. Before I put it back on the lathe because I am already working on cleaning up the lathe and I might as well clean it while I'm at it.

Funny thing is the motor for my Atlas horizontal milling machine. It has a Craftsman motor on it and I bought both of them from the same person who said that these machines came from a guy who was into gunsmithing.


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## Orangecrush

Hello Mike,

Well, last night I decided to take apart the motor so I can start to clean it. I tried to blow it out with my air compressor, but that really didn't do anything. The inside of the motor is covered in old grease and saw dust and blowing in out just isn't going to do the job.

You are right about the motor having a couple of places to oil the bearings. There are 2 holes on the end caps (1each) that you can put oil in. And when I looked inside the end caps you can see what looks like felt that helps to distribute the oil over the bearings. And the bearings are not bearings but what look to be Oilite bushings in the end caps. Also, the motor is not a capacitor start motor, if that makes any difference?

Anyway, last night I started to clean up the end caps with mineral spirits. That worked pretty good for them, but how I want to clean the stator and windings. I'm not sure what kind of damage might result from using mineral spirits on the stator and the windings? I watched a couple of videos on YouTube about people rebuilding AC motors. But they don't show how they cleaned them before putting them back together.

Like I said before, I don't know much about these motors. And I don't want to do any damage to it by cleaning it up before I put it back on the lathe.

So what are your thoughts on how I should go about cleaning the motor?


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## Orangecrush

Oh yeah, 

Here are a couple of pictures of the motor.


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## wa5cab

Steve,

Mineral spirits, Varsol, Stoddard Solvent, etc. wont hurt the coils or armature.  I'd wear surgical gloves, though, as it will dry your skin out by leaching the oils out of it.  I would also make a sketch showing how it was connected and then remove the external wiring.  Personally, being familiar with the insides of motors, I would remove the pulley and disassemble the motor.  And probably replace the bearings or bushings, whichever it has.  But if you've never had one apart, you might not want to make this one your maiden voyage.


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## Ulma Doctor

Orangecrush said:


> Hello Mike,
> You are right about the motor having a couple of places to oil the bearings. There are 2 holes on the end caps (1each) that you can put oil in. And when I looked inside the end caps you can see what looks like felt that helps to distribute the oil over the bearings. And the bearings are not bearings but what look to be Oilite bushings in the end caps. Also, the motor is not a capacitor start motor, if that makes any difference?
> Like I said before, I don't know much about these motors. And I don't want to do any damage to it by cleaning it up before I put it back on the lathe.
> So what are your thoughts on how I should go about cleaning the motor?



SAE 20 wt oil is recommended for the motor.
it was common for old motors to have bushings instead of roller bearings until the 50's 
the capacitor start would include another assembly internal to the motor, a centrifugal start switch.
but since your motor is not equipped, that will mean a simpler disassemble for you!

turpentine, mineral spirits, kerosene, can be used to clean the motor and parts
use caution all 3 are flammable
you may wish to do the cleaning phase outdoors or in a very well ventilated space  
use compressed air to dry thoroughly before reassembly


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## Orangecrush

Thank you Robert and Mike for getting back to me.

One of the things I noticed about this motor is. That the armature has what looks to be some sort of spring on the shaft. It looks like this spring has some sort of weight that when the motor turns. The weight moves outwards and when the motor slows down the spring push's the weight back down. But for the life of me I have know idea what it does? Maybe for balance?

And yes, last night I used some mineral spirits to clean up the end caps and the armature and it worked fantastic. I waited on the stator and windings until I heard back from you guys about the cleaning with mineral spirits. But it sounds like mineral spirits will work fine and not damage anything. So tonight I'll get the stator and windings nice and clean.

After that I think I am pretty much done with the motor. I already painted the motor mount and the clamps that hold the motor to the mount. I just need to get some new wire before I put everything back together. The wire that was on the motor is wasted and needed to be replaced anyway. So I might have to buy a heavy gauge extension cord and sacrifice it to the motor. LoL

I want to thank both of you guys for all your help. I would have never got this far without the help of good people like you!!!

Hey Mike, now that I think about it. I wonder if the spring with the weight on it is what you are talking about? With the centrifugal start switch for a capacitor start?


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## Ulma Doctor

the weight and the assembly you are referring to may just be the start winding switch.
the weights act on centrifugal force to open the switch when it is somewhere over 3/4 of rated motor speed
when the switch opens, the start windings drop out of the motor's run circuit.


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## Orangecrush

I knew you would know what that spring and weight were for!!! LoL

This is one of the reasons I would like to know more about this motor. But as you can see in the picture above of the motor name plate. You can barely read what the heck it says. But from what you are saying the motor could be as old as the early 50's or maybe older?


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## Glenn Brooks

Regarding  your motor - it seems to be quite old - from the 1940's or 50's perhaps.  I wonder if it is indeed a replacement motor.  Usually metal lathe motors are designed with completely enclosed cases - to keep chips from getting inside the works and litterly cutting the internal wiring to shreds. This motor has enuf holes in the case to admit a whirlwind.  Clearly for ventilation.  I wonder, did you find a lot of chips and scarf when you cracked the case?

Glenn


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## Orangecrush

Hello Glenn,

Actually I didn't find much for chips in the motor when I cracked it open. It was more like old grease and saw dust from the guy who owned it before me. I have looked over everything inside the motor and it looks pretty good. Just dirty from not being maintained and cleaned. The motor ran fine when I bought the lathe (nice and smooth) so I figured I could still use it.

Glenn, looking at your signature. It looks like you have quite a few machines in your shop.


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## Ulma Doctor

+1 on what Glenn said!
the old motors were not the model of efficiency as we know it today.
they were made with different goals in mind, but were well made nonetheless.
they were made for longevity.
part of the longevity was the reduction of the winding temperatures, by perforating the motor case.
unfortunately, this creates it's own hazards- namely the introduction of swarf into the motor
bad things can happen brother when that occurs.
if you are gonna use the motor, you might want to devise a shield that stands off the motor 1/2" or more that allows for air but not swarf!!!
screen door size mesh screen and cable ties or hose clamps may be helpful


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## Orangecrush

I'll take some more pictures tonight of the motor. So you can see what the inside looks like before I put it back together. Maybe we can get a better understanding of what I am dealing with?

And about the motor, I don't know where the guy who I bought the mill and lathe from got the motor for the lathe. Both were used by a old gunsmith guy who died and handed them down to the son, and the son didn't want them.

The Atlas horizontal milling machine I have. The motor on it is a more modern Craftsman with capacitor start.

Oh yeah almost forgot to mention. I have watched a couple of videos about AC motors on YouTube. Where people use a volt meter to measure the resistance of the motor. From my understanding of the videos, the less resistance the better. Like 8 ohms or less. So that is something I want to do when I get it back together.


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## Ulma Doctor

Orangecrush said:


> I'll take some more pictures tonight of the motor. So you can see what the inside looks like before I put it back together. Maybe we can get a better understanding of what I am dealing with?


excellent!


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## Orangecrush

Hey Mike,

I like the idea of using something to prevent future swarf from getting inside the motor housing. Definitely going to make something like your idea with what I have laying around.


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## Glenn Brooks

Sounds like the original owner used the lathe a lot for wood working.  Even South Bend marketed their '20's lathes as dual purpose wood and metal machines.

 You could easily wrap a solid sheet of thin sheet metal - even tin foil around the motor - with some 1" or 2" standoffs like giant lagging on steam engine boilers, to keep out unwanted chips.  Then set up a small low voltage computer fan to carry away any heat residue.  Keeping the motor cool and chip free.

BTW. A sure fire way to tell if the motor has any service life left is to inspect the armature. If the  grooves on the armature are worn to near smooth the motor is shot - won't last long, as the armature soon won't be able to generate the necessary electric field to function properly.  At least this is what I've been told.  (I am no professional electrician, by any stretch.) but this simple inspection seems to be pretty valid for the old motors I've had go bad. Might be something to consider.

Glenn


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## wa5cab

Yes, you very definitely do not want metal chips or dust getting into anything electrical.  Either immediately or eventually, it will definitely let the magic smoke out.

A voltmeter is only useful for measuring or indicating the presence of voltage.  The instrument used for measuring resistance and indicating continuity is called an ohmmeter.  And an electrical instrument for measuring current is called an ammeter.  And there are a bzillion types of each.

Whether or not less (resistance) is better or not "just depends".  If you know, for example, that one of the run windings should have a resistance of 8 ohms, and you only measure 4, or measure essentially 0, that is very definitely NOT good.  On the other hand, if you had say a 1/2 HP and a 1 HP motor and measured the DC resistance of one of the start windings in each, you would certainly expect to get a lower reading from the 1HP motor.  But on the other hand, if you got a reading of 0 ohms in either motor, that is very definitely NOT good.


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## Orangecrush

Okay guys,

I promise you some pictures of the motor before I paint it and put it back together. I was able to get the stator and windings as clean as I could with mineral spirits and a good scrubbing. May not look the best but that is as far as I am going to go with cleaning.

Now you can see what I have going on this motor.


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## Orangecrush

And if you see double imagines of the pictures. I don't know why that happened?

But now you can see what the motor looks like. On the armature you can see that spring and weight I was talking about. And speaking of the armature, Glenn you said something about if is smooth and with no grooves left on it. That is is pretty much wasted, well you can clearly see that it is smooth.

So I guess at this point. The only thing to do is paint it and put it back together. See how well it works for now until I can get a new motor. I was really hoping that I could use this motor, just because of the uniqueness of it. But from what Glenn is saying about the armature having no grooves (and it is smooth) then it probably is wasted.


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## Orangecrush

wa5cab said:


> Yes, you very definitely do not want metal chips or dust getting into anything electrical.  Either immediately or eventually, it will definitely let the magic smoke out.
> 
> A voltmeter is only useful for measuring or indicating the presence of voltage.  The instrument used for measuring resistance and indicating continuity is called an ohmmeter.  And an electrical instrument for measuring current is called an ammeter.  And there are a bzillion types of each.
> 
> Whether or not less (resistance) is better or not "just depends".  If you know, for example, that one of the run windings should have a resistance of 8 ohms, and you only measure 4, or measure essentially 0, that is very definitely NOT good.  On the other hand, if you had say a 1/2 HP and a 1 HP motor and measured the DC resistance of one of the start windings in each, you would certainly expect to get a lower reading from the 1HP motor.  But on the other hand, if you got a reading of 0 ohms in either motor, that is very definitely NOT good.




Yes Robert, that is what I meant to say. A volt ohm meter to measure the resistance of the motor. But I'll have to do that after I put it back together (something I should have done before I took it apart) to see if it worth all the trouble I put into it.


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## wa5cab

OK.


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## Orangecrush

Well,

Not sure what happened to this thread with all the help I was getting. But tonight is the night that I put the motor back together. I was wondering if Mike or Glenn ever saw the pictures above with the armature and it being smooth. I'm not sure if it was ever smooth in the first place, because it doesn't look like it ever had grooves in it. Unless they are talking about the windings, that have grooves on the inside? Guess I'll never know until one of them decides to respond back to this thread. But if they are talking about the grooves in the windings, they are nice and clean and after a good cleaning they look like new.

Anyway, tomorrow I will send some pictures of the motor when it is assembled. Still need to get a sacrificial extension cord and wire it up to the motor to see if it will run like it used to.

Thanks again for everyone's help.


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## wa5cab

I think maybe that the new software version that was installed over the weekend may have decreased participation a bit.  For one thing, we've discovered that anyone using any of the later versions of IE can start a thread but can't reply to it or any other thread.  Same is apparently true about Conversations.  Or they could all just be off doing something else.

Anyway, I'm not an electrician, either.  I'm an electrical and electronics engineer.  And I have no idea what these grooves are that were mentioned earlier.  In any case, with single phase AC motors other than Universal (AC/DC), the things that you look for are general condition of the housing or main body of the motor, condition of the end bells, condition of the windings and the wire coming out of them, general condition of the armature, condition of the bearing journals on both ends of the armature, condition of the bearings, whether they are sleeve, ball or roller, and if so equipped, condition of the centrifugal switch.  

The photographs aren't large or close-up enough for me to be able to say that everything appears OK.  But I don't see anything obviously wrong.  So run an electricial leakage test between the two or three stater windings and the housing.  Best way to do this is with a Megohmmeter or Megger.  But you aren't likely to have one of those.  So use an ohmmeter on its highest scale.  Connect one lead to the housing.  In turn, connect the other lead to each of the wires coming out of the stater windings.  The ammeter meter needle shouldn't move and stay moved.  

If you are going to repaint the motor, do it now.

If that's all OK, reassemble the motor and if possible, test run it before putting it back on the lathe.


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## Orangecrush

Hey Robert,

The motor is cleaned up and painted. I put it back together last night and now all I need is the sacrificial extension cord. Once I get that then I will put a switch on and give it a bench test before I go putting back on the lathe.

Oh yeah almost forgot to ask you. Now that I have the lathe stand welded up. And I know this is a personal preference type of thing. But what color should I paint the lathe stand? Right now I have just about everything painted dark grey gloss or smoke gray gloss. But I want to change it up a bit with the stand, so I'm thinking maybe dark blue gloss?


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## wa5cab

Well, to paraphrase Henry Ford, people may paint their machines any color that they like, so long as it's gray.    Seriously, I've never lived with any equipment that wasn't either black, gray or green.  So I don't know how that combination would "wear".


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## Orangecrush

Well, I have plenty of gray paint. So I might as well paint it gray like the rest of the lathe. When I rebuilt the Atlas horizontal mill. I ended up painting the stand with truck bed liner paint in black. Still not really sure if I like that or not yet. But I don't want to go that route with the lathe stand. And thought that maybe doing something different might be cool. And I agree with you about the machines they were either green or gray. In fact the walls of the machine shop that I worked in were green on the bottom and white about 4 feet up. And the manager of the shop would wear puke green pants with a white shirt. Back then most of us were in our 20's and would do all kinds of stupid stuff and the manager would blend in with the walls. Next thing you know someone is doing something they shouldn't and the manager would catch them in the act. Busted!!! LoL

Oh yeah, that spring thingy on the armature I was wondering about. Apparently it rides against the metal plate on the end piece and it has a taper on it. When the spring gets far enough up on the tapered metal plate, I guess it does something I'm not quite sure about yet?


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## Orangecrush

Just a FYI about the motor for my lathe.

As most of you know, I have been working on the AC motor that was on my lathe when I bought it. Cleaned it up and painted it over the past few days. Asked a bunch of questions about the motor and was worried that it might not work after everything I have done.

While, last night I finally got a very nice AC cord and connected it to the motor. Plugged in the motor and BAM, I'm only kidding, it ran smooth, almost like it was brand new, Ide say it purrs like a kitten!!! So all my worrying about the motor and it not being able to ever run again was for nothing, I'm happy to say!!!

Thank you everyone for all your helpful information.


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## wa5cab

That sounds good.


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## Orangecrush

Hello good members,

It's been a while since I posted on my progress with my Atlas Craftsman 27440 Lathe. But I have cleaned it up and painted it. So now I am ready to put it back together and I have a question to those that might know this. On the carriage cross feed, there is a Scroll (L6-38) and a Plunger (L6-265). The Plunger is what keeps the cross slide feed from going into gear when you have the leadscrew engaged. The Scroll is the part that engages the leadscrew when you push the handle down on the right of the apron.

What I need to know is, if you have ever looked at the Scroll on your Lathe? The reason I ask is that on my Lathe the Scroll is round and can not drop the Plunger down. Because of this the cross feed knob will not pull out to use the cross feed. What I need to know is if the Scroll on your Lathe has either a flat area or some type of hole. So that the Plunger can drop down and let you pull the cross feed knob. 

If anyone might know what I am talking about. Please let me know it would be truly appreciate.


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## Rob

On some models the interlock was not present.  Not sure but I think that the Craftsman's had it and the Atlas did not but not sure on that.  There is a flat that is milled on the ones that have it.  I purchased one off EBay once and it did not have the flat so I was able to cut it using my milling attachment.  I will try and get you a picture of it later today.  You can remove the plunger and use it that way until you either mill the slot or get a new one.


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## Orangecrush

Hello Rob and thank you for getting back to me. 

Yes if you could, please take a picture of the Scroll you have. I would like to see how the flat is milled on it. So I can do the same thing to my Scroll.


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## Rob

OK, here are some pictures of my broken scroll.


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## Orangecrush

Ah yes. I can see what you are talking about with the flat. Thank you for providing the dimensions. I think I slap my Scroll on my mill and cut the flat.


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## Rob

Just make sure to get the rotation correct.  That is the purpose to the last pic.


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## Orangecrush

Yes Rob, I noticed the oration of the flat on the round part of the Scroll. Not sure if it would be better to just see if I can find one on ebay. Or try and cut the flat on the one I have.


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## Rob

I would price one from Clausing before purchasing one on eBay.


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## Orangecrush

Hello again Rob,

I guess what I don't understand is, why on my Lathe did they put a round Scroll in. The reason I ask is that my Lathe has all the components for the cross slide feed. But when I got it to my shop and started taking it apart to clean it up and paint it. I noticed that the miter gear for the cross slide that should have a internal KEY inside was missing (the internal key not the miter gear it's self). So I ended up finding one (keyed miter gear) on eBay to replace the old one.

It wasn't until I started to put the carriage assembly back together that I found the issue with the Plunger and Scroll. Unless for some reason Atlas or maybe Craftsman decided not to make the 24770 lathe with the cross feed. But left the pull knob and subassemblies for the cross feed intact. I don't know it doesn't make any sense to me why they would leave out the Scroll with the flat and the miter gear without the key inside? Unless it was for some type of safety thing?

Another thing I think is kind of weird. All the Scrolls on eBay are the round type?

What do you think?


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## Rob

First I know that not all the lathes had this interlock,  I know that my Craftsman has it and I know that some of the 10" Atlas ones do not.  As with any interlock it is a safety thing but not sure if it is needed.  I don't see myself engaging the cross slide feed at the same time as the carriage feed but without it it can be done.

Now as to why I am just guessing but I can see someone replacing a broken one with one purchased off EBay or some other place rather than getting one from Clausing.  I know when I have contacted Clausing they want my lathe model #. When I purchased the one that I milled the flat in I did not realize about the interlock until I was attempting to install the scroll.  As I recall I see more on EBay without the flat spot than with it.

As I mentioned you could just remove the plunger and use the scroll until you either obtained another one or got around to milling the flat on this one or not at all.


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## Orangecrush

Well, what I ended up doing is. And I kind of regret this, but I ended up cutting the very end off the Plunger. The reason I did that over removing the whole thing. Is that I would of had to remove the cross feed knob which is held in place with a small pin. And I didn't have a drive pin small enough to get that little pin out.

But like I said I kinda regret it, because now the Plunger does not push up against the Scroll. Because of this the Scroll does not move the half nuts away from the Leadscrew enough. And I have to use a rubber band to keep the lever up so that the half nuts don't interfere with the Leadscrew.

I gotta go back and look at everything again, because I think it just might be the spring that holds the Plunger. When I tried to remove the Plunger the first time I took off the spring to see if I could get the Plunger out. But of course the Plunger is to long to remove without removing the cross feed knob. So it could be just the spring for the Plunger that is giving me the problem. I already tried to adjust the little spring with the ball that is used for adjusting the half nut lever. But that didn't do any good.

Also, when I bought the Lathe. The guy who sold it to me also sold me a old Atlas horizontal milling machine. Both machines came with a bunch of tooling. Which is nice because you never have enough tooling. LoL And before I bought the mill and lathe, I bought a Grizzly G0704 and it also came with a bunch of tooling and a very nice vise. But what I am looking for now is a small vise for the Atlas horizontal mill. So if you know of anyone who might have a small machine vise they want to sell. Please let me know.

If you don't mind me asking, what Lathe do you have? I assume that it is a Craftsman, but what model is it?

Anyway, thank you Rob for all your help. It is truly appreciated.


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## larry4406

My 101.27440 has the power cross feed and it works. No clue what the scroll piece on mine looks like.


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## Orangecrush

Hello Larry,

Thank you for your reply to this post. I don't know of any other people who have the 27440 Craftsman Lathe then you and me right now. At least no one has commented on having one other than you so far on this post.

I would like to ask you a few questions about your 24770 Craftsman Lathe, if that is okay with you. If you have read any of this post then you know what I have been going through. I bought the Craftsman 24770 Lathe and a Atlas horizontal mill from a guy on Craigslist. I really didn't know much about the Lathe when I bought it. Other than what the guy who sold it to me had to say. Which was that the lathe and mill was owned by a old gunsmith guy. So I thought that they would probably be in good condition, or in somewhat good condition.

But when I got them back to my shop it was a whole nother story. I have already rebuilt the Atlas horizontal milling machine and it runs great. But the Lathe, was covered in old grease and saw dust and at the time I couldn't tell how bad it was. Since then I have taken everything apart and clean and painted the Lathe. Now I am putting it back together and finding problems here and there with it. Not show stoppers, but things that need attention before I can start cutting parts.

As I mentioned above, the miter gear for the cross feed was missing the internal key. And the Scroll didn't have the flat area for the Plunger to drop into. Which leads me to believe that my 24770 Lathe was not intended to have a working power cross feed? I have already bought a keyed miter gear and fixed the Scroll/ Plunger issue. So I now have power cross feed.

But one thing I am not sure about is the bed ways. When I first got the Lathe I didn't notice the wear on the bed ways. Until I started putting the carriage assembly back on the bed ways. I'm not sure if I should stone the bed ways or just leave them alone.

Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated.


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## Rob

I also have a 24770 as well as a Atlas Mill and Atlas Shaper.  And yes it should have power cross feed.


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## larry4406

Orangecrush - I have not taken my lathe apart, so I am afraid I am not much help.  I have also not put it to use due to other projects.

I see Rob has one and has posted the parts list and manual.


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## larry4406

Orangecrush

maybe this link and pictures there will help,  The site has pictures of the various parts in the apron,
http://www.mymachineshop.net/product_p/10007.htm


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## markba633csi

Hi Orangecrush: most Atlas/Craftsman lathes this old will have some wear in the bedways. Usually it doesn't cause a big problem. You might have difficulty turning longish shafts to a precise diameter without some taper showing up.  But even a really worn lathe can still make good parts if you are aware of the wear and compensate for it. 
Mark S.


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## Orangecrush

Thank you everyone for getting back to me,

First off, Rob thank you for the PDF file. I think I might have the same version that I downloaded here a couple days ago. But what I would really like to see is some pictures of your Atlas horizontal mill and the Atlas Shaper!!! I just got done rebuilding my Atlas horizontal mill and would like to compare the one you have to mine.

And as far as the cross feed and my concern about it. It seems to work fine when I turn the Leadscrew by hand. I am now in the process of putting the rest of the gears on the Lathe. Next will be the pulley assembly on the back. And about the wear on the bed ways, I guess I'm not really concerned about it right now. I'll have to see how the Lathe cuts before I do anything to repair it. Like I said in my post above, I took a stone to the bed ways to knock off any sharp edges.

Also, Rob I know you have a 27440 Craftsman Lathe. But if anyone else has one (including you Rob) please post some pictures. I would love to see what you have done to your Lathe!!!

I'll take some pictures tonight, so you guys can see my progress.

Thanks again everyone, I really appreciate your help!!!


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## Rob

I will post some more pictures later but here is the best upgrade I made to my lathe. A T slotted cross slide from http://www.statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/A-11.html


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## Orangecrush

Hey Rob,

Thanks for getting back to me.

That is one thing I want to get after I have the Lathe running. Is a QCTP, I know that Shars sells the AXA and heard that it will fit on my Lathe. Right now I have a bunch of the old style (Rocker tool post) tool holders. And when I bought the lathe and mill they both came with a bunch of tooling. Some of the stuff for the Lathe I'm not even sure about what they are used for. Because like I said, the guy who owned the lathe and mill supposed to be a gunsmith. So there is some weird looking tooling.

I also have the dilemma of which motor I want to put on the Lathe. The motor that was on the mill is a Craftsman 1/2hp at 1725rpm. And the one that was on the lathe is a 1/3hp at 1725rpm. But the old 1/3hp motor is really old and the 1/2hp motor has a forward and reverse switch on it. Don't ask me why they put a forward and reverse switch on the mill, because it doesn't make sense to have one on the mill.

But I am thinking about putting the 1/2hp motor on the Lathe. Do you think that is to much HP for the Lathe?

Also, here is a couple of pictures of the Atlas mill.
	

		
			
		

		
	





And of the Lathe before I started working on it 
	

		
			
		

		
	




Some of the tooling.


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## JPMacG

I think 1/2 hp would be just about perfect for the lathe.   And I agree with you about the QCTP.   My lathe came with a rocker and I hated it.  I installed the AXA and am very happy.


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## Orangecrush

Hello Jon,

Yeah, I haven't even tried to use the old style Rocker tool post yet. But I can imagine that they are a nightmare to setup, at least the first time. LoL Only reason I want to try out the rocker tool post. Is that I have a bunch of tooling for it that came with the Lathe when I bought it. And I know some of those QCTP can get expensive. Where did you get the AXA at?


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## Bamban

Orangecrush said:


> Where did you get the AXA at?




Import models from Shars, sometimes their eBay pricing is lower than direct purchase from them. All industrial is another supplier of import models. I buy my Aloris directly from them when they have sales promotion.


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## Orangecrush

Here are some pictures of my progress with the Lathe.


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## JPMacG

I purchased my AXA from CDCO Machinery Co.  It is branded "Bostar".   It is the wedge type.

By the way, my lathe has an Atlas 1/2 HP 1725 RPM motor.  I think it is the original motor that was installed when the lathe was new.  My MFC mill has a 1/3 HP Dunlap motor.  I suspect that motor is not the original but 1/3 HP seems to be standard for the MFC.

I found the lantern tool post to be harder to set up and less rigid than the AXA.  I never did get the lantern cutoff tool to work for a deep cut.  I still have the lantern tooling for some possible future need,  People with more experience than me say that the lantern system works OK if you know how to use it and spend the time to shim the cutter holder properly.


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## wa5cab

Steve,

By the 1950's, the 1/2 HP motor was the recommended size for both the 10" and the 12" Atlas built ways.

The reason that your keyed mitre gear that runs on the lead screw did not have a key in it is because it broke off, probably due to a crash.  Atlas never made and Sears never sold a 101.27440 (or 101.27430 or 101.07403) that did not have a working power cross feed.  That was a big selling point for them when the 101.07403 first came out.  None of the earlier machines had it, nor did the 101.07383, whose production overlapped the 101.07403 by about 5 or 6 years.


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## wa5cab

Back to the interlock between power cross and traverse feed, the only three Atlas built machines that ever had it were the 101.07403, 101.27430 and 101.27440.  Neither the Atlas 10F (including the QC) nor any of the later 1/2" bed machines have it.  So any time spent trying to turn a 10D-38 into an L6-38 is, in my opinion, time wasted.  If the machine is turning a part by running the carriage toward the headstock (which is normal) and you engage power crossfeed, the carriage will move toward the operator, not dig the cutter in deeper.  It won't be a good pass but it won't hurt anything, either.  Normally, if you turn a part to diameter and then need to face off the end, you have to stop the motor, switch the tumbler to the other position, and restart the motor.

However, everyone is free to do as they wish.


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## Orangecrush

First off, thank you everyone for replying to this post.

Did anyone happen to look at the pictures I posted on my last post? I was wondering if I have everything in the correct place? Not so much the carriage assembly, but the gears and pulleys. I'm pretty sure I have everything where it is supposed to be, and I don't have any left over parts laying around. LoL

Okay let's start with Jon's reply about the QCTP. Once I get the Lathe back together again. The only thing I have to try out the Lathe and it's cutting ability is the rocker style tool post. So I'll be messing around with that until I can get something better. Plus I already have just about every cutting attachment that goes with the rocker tool post. I have heard that the AXA wedge type QCTP work really well with these old Atlas Craftsman Lathe's. And I have looked at a few places that sell them. Shars seems to have a good price on their AXA, so I might go with what they have.

And on a parting note Jon, if or when you have time. Please take some pictures of your Atlas horizontal mill and Atlas Lathe. I would love to see what your machines look like compared to mine.

Next is good old Robert, and if you don't know Robert. He is a plethora of information on these mills and lathes!!! This guy has helped me out quite a few times with my mill and lathe. And always goes above and beyond to help me with my questions.

Okay enough about Robert, let's get back to the Q&A. LoL About the motor issue with 1/2hp versus 1/3hp since I already have the 1/2hp motor wired up with a forward and reverse switch. I'm going to put that one on the Lathe, that is after I take it off the mill. The old 1/3hp motor will end up on the mill. Plus the 1/2hp motor is a capacitor start motor and the 1/3hp is really old and will probably be a good match for the mill. And there is no reason to have a forward and reverse switch on the mill that I know of?

Now let's get into the miter gear issue. Though it looked as if the miter gear might have sheared off at one point. I've looked at it quite a few times and to me. I just don't see any obvious area inside the miter gear were the internal key might have sheared off? And another thing that is kind of strange, is that the Scroll does not have the flat area for the Plunger to go into for the cross feed? 

Just seems to me that "if" the Scroll did have a flat area. Then it would make sense that the miter gear might have sheared off at one point because of something in the carriage assembly being locked up. Or like Robert is saying, that maybe someone crashed the carriage assembly into the chuck.

Okay, now that I have talked about the above mentioned. Let's get into Robert's last post about the interlock between the power cross feed and the traverse feed. So I guess what you are saying is, that when you pull the knob for the power cross feed. That the cross feed will go in the opposite direction coming back instead of going forward when you are facing off a part. Did I get that right? I'm not sure of the 10D-38 you speak of, only the L6-38 which is the Scroll (which in the PDF looks to be round). So if you could, please entertain us with your knowledge of the L6-38 and where I can find it.

Thanks again guys for all your help. It is truly appreciated!!!


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## Rob

You can watch EBay for a used one but make sure that you see the flat on it or you can give Clausing a call and purchase a new one.  Another option is to give Sears a call and pay a premium price.  They usually have a pretty good markup at Sears vs Clausing.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/pa...127440&categoryName=Lathe&brandName=CRAFTSMAN

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/10127440/0247/0728000.html

Another option is to mill the flat in the one you have.


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## wa5cab

L6-38 was only used on three models, 101.07403, 101.27430 and 101.27440.  The 3996 (final 12" model built) uses 10D-38.  If you look at the parts lists for 101.07383 back to at least 101.07381, you will see 10D-38.  The reason that the flat isn't visible on the drawing of L6-38 is that it would be hidden by the disk on the inner end of the scroll.  But why your machine has 10D-38 in it instead of L6-38, I have no idea.  As you discovered, without the flat, you can never engage the cross feed with the plunger installed.  It's even possible that an unscrupulous PO installed the wrong scroll so that a buyer couldn't engage power cross feed and discover that it did not work.  As to why the sheared off key left no sign, if it happened long enough ago, it could be worn smooth.

Yes, if the tumbler is set to run the carriage toward the headstock, it will back the cross slide out toward the operator untill the cross feed screw backs out of the nut.  As I said some time ago, the later 12" machines do not have the interlock.  My guess is that whomever was at Sears in 1939 who insisted on the interlock had probably either retired, gotten fired, or died by 1957 when the new 12" was being designed.


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## Orangecrush

Hello everyone and thank you for replying to this post, again. LoL

Robert, I got the feeling that you are probably correct about the miter gear. I remember telling you in one of our PM's, that when I was taking the carriage assembly apart. That I noticed the miter gear (10F-83) was stuck and did not move. And I mentioned it to you because I couldn't get it out to clean it. We ended up figuring it out and I was able to remove the stuck miter gear and clean it. And now it is working fine. But that was most likely the problem, and because of it being stuck it probably snapped the internal key in the (10F-82A) miter gear a long time ago.

As for the Scroll, I decided not to mill a flat on the round area for the Plunger to drop into. Though I really didn't want to cut the end off the Plunger. It was easier than trying to remove the Plunger from the apron. Because I would have had to remove the pull knob for the cross feed and I didn't have a drive pin small enough to punch out the little pin that holds the knob. I just thought it would be easier to cut the end off the Plunger. And yes I kind of regret it now, but I can always make a new one when I get the Lathe running. LoL

And the reason I have a (10D-38) instead of the (L6-38). Who knows at this point with the Lathe being so old. One thing I did find was a old receipt from back in the 70's. Whoever owned the Lathe at one point bought new half nuts (10F-12) and a (10F-36) cross feed slide screw and a (10F-19) carriage slide nut. Now I know that the (10F-12) half nuts need replacing every once in awhile, so that is a good thing. But what has me wondering is the purchase of the (10F-36) which is the AMCE screw for the carriage cross feed. The other part, the (10F-19) would be a replacement nut for the (10F-36) cross feed screw. So something must have happened that might have been pretty bad or they just wore out to have them replaced? Again, who knows what might have happened that long ago.


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## wa5cab

True.  Although I have seen people replace the cross feed screw and nut and then complain that that didn't fix the backlash problem at least in part because they didn't understand the system.  Any time that you think that the screw and/or nut need replacing, you should first crank the cross slide nut off of the screw and measure the screw and crank end float.  This should be about .001 to .003".  Then pull the cross slide back against the end of the screw and crank it back to the area in which it usually runs.  Then measure the backlash using the dial on the screw.  anything under 0.010" is OK.  New parts would not improve it significantly.  Plus as a practical matter, if you get used to the practice of never approaching the position for OD turning or threading by turning the crank CCW, backlash doesn't affect accuracy anyway.  It's just annoying.

Also, the half nuts don't wear out that fast, unless maybe if you are only using the machine for grinding.  I bought my 3996 in January, 1981 and although I already bought a replacement set, I haven't yet changed them.


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## Orangecrush

Hey Robert,

Now that you mention it, when I bought the mill and lathe. I got several cigar boxes full of miscellaneous tooling. But in particular was a couple of boxes of grinding wheels. That at the time I didn't know what the previous owner had been using them for. Now you got me wondering if the previous owner was using the lathe for grinding on something? I was told by the person who sold me the mill and lathe that the previous owner was a old gunsmith. And I don't know anything about gunsmithing, so it kind of makes me wonder what the guy would need grinding wheels for?

Maybe someone can enlighten me on this gunsmithing and why the use of grinding wheels?

And about the replacement parts for the carriage assembly. I didn't realize that the parts on the receipt I found were to the cross slide. I looked at the receipt a couple of times and knew about the half nuts that they ordered. And just figured that the screw and nut were just that, a screw and nut. Until last night when I was looking over the receipt again and looking at the PDF file. Figured I would see what this screw and nut really were and where they went. To my surprise they went to the cross slide!!! And Robert, you are correct that the cross slide on my Lathe does not have any backlash. 

And the half nuts, yes they look brand new. Like they have never been used before. I thought it was kind of weird that the whole Lathe was covered in grease and saw dust. But the half nuts were completely clean with no wear on them when I started taking the lathe apart.

And on a parting note, I finally got the Lathe together last night!!! Now I don't have the motor on yet, but I might get that done tonight. After I get the motor on then I need to start thinking about getting a link belt. I already know what you guys are going to say about link belts. But I have a couple on my Atlas horizontal milling machine. And so far I don't see any unusual wear on the pulley system. But then I only have about 8 to 10 hours of run time on the mill. LoL

Thanks again everyone for all your help, it is truly appreciated!!!


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## Orangecrush

Good evening everyone, 

Thought I would post a couple of pictures of my progress.


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