# Grinder And Cut Off Saw For Use With Small Metal Working Projects?



## Aaron_W (Nov 23, 2016)

I recently got a Sherline 4400 lathe and am now looking for some supporting tools to go along with it.

Prior to getting the lathe I had already been working with small diameter aluminum and brass rod, tubing, other  shapes of typically 1/4" >. I've got a little Harbor Freight chop saw about 2" steel blade which has been fine for cutting this small stock.

With the lathe I'm moving into larger stuff 1/4" - 1" to start with, and 1/2" is really pushing the limits of the little saw. 1/8" brass already works it pretty hard, so almost any brass I'd be using with the lathe will challenge it.

I'd like the capability of going as large as 2" dia at some point although I'm not expecting to do a lot of work that large, so need a saw more appropriate for the work.


So first question

I saw an inexpensive ($90) 7 1/4" Ryobi compound miter saw at Home Depot that seems like it might fit the bill if equipped with a non-ferrous metal blade. I notice they make two non-ferrous blades in this size a steel 68 tooth ($11), and a carbide 56 tooth ($42). I generally avoid cheap Chinese tools but I have actually had good luck with Ryobi tools as long as I treat them like the lightweight tools that they are. Sears (Craftsman) has a similar sliding compound miter saw for $112, but these days I expect Craftsman power tools are probably Chinese made as well and I don't really need the sliding feature. 

I do have a 14" compound miter saw I use for home repair projects, but a 14" non-ferrous metal costs as much as the smaller saw with a blade and takes up a lot more room at the bench. I like the idea of a smaller saw dedicated for my hobby stuff leaving the larger saw for the big stuff. 

Unless somebody has a good argument against the 7 1/4" I'm mostly wondering about the $11 high speed steel blade vs the $42 carbide. I'm thinking the steel blade is probably fine for the relatively light (and occasional) use of a hobbyist, the carbide being more appropriate for daily use. Again mostly looking at aluminum and occasionally brass. 

Obviously carbide will last longer, but I have read some comments stating that high speed steel tooling is actually preferable when working with aluminum on small lathes. I don't know if that thinking would also apply to a saw blade.  


Second question

I'm looking for a grinder to sharpen high speed steel lathe tooling. I'm thinking a 6" bench grinder should be adequate but other than having an adjustable tool rest not really sure what to look for. I've been around grinders pretty much my whole life but kind of take them for granted.  


Thanks and hope I'm asking in the right spot.


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## Hawkeye (Nov 23, 2016)

The scary thing is that it sounds like you plan to use a wood-cutting machine to cut metal. If you look into what they refer to as "cold saws", you'll see that they run at a much lower RPM. Wood speeds will destroy a metal saw blade and put you at risk for some high-speed bullets flying at you. Check out a portable bandsaw at Harbor freight. They are made for metal and you will find that you get a lot of use from them.

For the record, a wood-cutting bandsaw will eat a metal-cutting blade in about one second flat. It needs to run a lot slower as well.


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## hman (Nov 24, 2016)

Danger, Will Robinson!!!  Yes, you can cut aluminum on a table saw with a carbide blade.  I've done it.  The key is to feed slowly and *very* controllably.  There's no way you can get that kind of control with a chop saw (ie, miter saw, compound or otherwise).  It's almost impossible to keep it from digging in, with disastrous consequences.

If you're just cutting brass and aluminum up to 1" diameter, a good hacksaw is your least expensive _good_ option.  

Meanwhile I'd say to haunt Craigslist in search of a decent used 4x6 bandsaw.  You can probably get one for less than $120.

HF also has a handheld bandsaw on sale 11/24 ONLY, $99.  Normally $140.  Here's a screen shot of the ad you'll see if you go to http://www.harborfreight.com


Finally, there's the HF 4x6 bandsaw, which you can get new for about $210 with a 20% off coupon.

Whatever you decide on, BE SAFE!


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## DSaul (Nov 24, 2016)

A chop saw with a non-ferrous cutting blade will work fine for what you want to cut.  The non-ferrous blades are made for this purpose and have the appropriate hook angle and clearance to cut aluminum and brass in a chop saw or table saw designed to cut wood.  I use one on a regular basis to cut aluminum extrusions that are much larger than what you plan to cut.


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## toolroom (Nov 24, 2016)

Aaron, hman had a good idea for an inexpensive saw. I purchased one from Harbor Freight years ago and disassembled it to attach a 1 1/8" angle iron to hold it in a bench vice and fashioned a table onto the plate. Being without much space to work in, this has worked great over the years, and the blades can be found in most hardware stores bi metal, and vari tooth.


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## toolroom (Nov 24, 2016)

Forgot to mention, that the speeds are variable. I have cut 4'x4" Aluminum on it... yeah, it takes awhile but sure beats a hacksaw.
Pictures of my shop are in Machine manufacturers, under Smithy, (my humble shop) and can be enlarged.


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## royesses (Nov 24, 2016)

Little Machine Has a small benchtop bandsaw with rotating vise for $249.00:
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4829


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## Ulma Doctor (Nov 25, 2016)

My wood cutting delta 10" chop saw with a carbide tipped blade and cutting wax has cut hundreds of feet of aluminum extrusions and rod.

Your idea of using the 7 1/4" chop saw and a nonferrous blade will work for your purposes.  
For aluminum check out Diablo carbide tipped blades somewhere around 40 tooth. They are pretty good blades that don't break the bank
Just be ready to use lubricating wax or the aluminum may stick to the carbide during operation


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## kd4gij (Nov 25, 2016)

The key is the op sounds like he want's to cut steel also.


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## Aaron_W (Nov 25, 2016)

No, mainly aluminum, and possibly some brass on occasion.

It looks like I have some thinking to do on a saw. A bandsaw is twice the price but that is better than I thought with most I've seen running more in the $400-500 range. It also dawned on me that I have a sawzall, so I have options beyond a hacksaw until I make a decision.


So how about the bench grinder for sharpening bits, anything special to look for? Any reason to get one larger than 6" dia?


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## mikey (Nov 26, 2016)

Hey Aaron, I also own a Sherline lathe and I would agree with hman that a 4X6 bandsaw is a good tool to consider. I own a Jet 5X6 and find it one of the most used tools in my shop. While the Diablo blades will cut sheet aluminum amazingly well, you will probably be cutting round stock and for that, a 4X6 is one of the best options available to you. Why? Once tuned, it will cut the ends of your work piece pretty straight; mine cuts within 0.002" of dead straight and this saves money and time. It will cut almost any material I use in my shop and the blades last for years if the saw is tuned and used properly. Plus, there is no muscle involved and I really like that. Try cutting a 2" dia. piece of aluminum with a hacksaw and see how tired you get. 

Those small portable bandsaws with the stand are okay but you will also need to cut with the saw vertical; a 4X6 is a good choice for that, too. I'm not disagreeing with everyone here. Their recommendations are solid. I just wanted to suggest that a horizontal/vertical bandsaw would be my best recommendation.

As for a bench grinder, I suggest you go with an 8" grinder. The wheels are more readily available than the 6", CBN wheels are also more readily available and the curvature of the wheel will leave less of a concave on your tools so the edge is generally stronger. I prefer a belt sander myself for grinding lathe tools but a good bench grinder with CBN wheels would be a good option as well. Check this guy out:

http://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/rikon-grinders

The Sherline lathe is an outstanding small precision lathe and when you learn to grind good tools it will surpass your expectations. Good luck!


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## jjtgrinder (Nov 26, 2016)

I agree with the post from TOOLROOM, I'll add the I've bought many high quality tools in pawn shops (Milwaukee Port-A-Band) for less than the price of a harbor freight tool.


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## Aaron_W (Dec 4, 2016)

Thank you, the cost and size difference 6-8" is fairy minimal but I couldn't find much either way on preference. Things like the curve on ground tools and availability of wheels are worthwhile to me so I'll find myself a nice 8" .


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## Nogoingback (Dec 20, 2016)

I have a 10" table saw blade made for non ferrous metal that I've used for about the last 5 years.  It works just fine as long as it's sharp and you 
feed slowly.  I've cut quite a bit of aluminum on it.


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