# The Little Jet Lathe That Just Might Could



## Bamban (Jun 28, 2016)

For your reading enjoyment here is a little lathe that just might could. Ulma Doctor sourced this jewel from his AO and it is heading to TX soon. This is the Taiwanese made Jet 1024P, a smallish, but stout for its size. There are a couple of broken parts, but nothing of significance, the left change lever and the TS hand wheel.

The spec is pretty decent for a little guy, 7 3/8 bed width is not that far behind some of the current offerings of larger swing, the PM1340GT at 7 1/2 for example.

To start off, here are some pictures of the lathe.














Below shows the  initial evaluation by Mike

*"Here's some more pix of the 1024
i mounted a tenth's indicator on the saddle and swept the x, there was a .0001" dip about 8" from the headstock 
i inspected the cross slide ways, there is still original scraping seen on over 85% of the surfaces
i lubed the spindle pulley bushings,gearing &,oil points
i ran the lathe for about 20 mins both in thread cutting mode as well as fine feed modes.
it sounds like an angel singing, especially when there is no gearbox feed engagement- you can't barely hear it run- it whispers
i did find another minor defect, the PO drilled and tapped 2 holes in the cross slide above the dovetails- for what purpose i don't know.
i may put set screws or allen screws to close them up as swarf could enter- not a big deal
overall the lathe is what i'd call sweet!*

*all the best mike"








*


Followed up with a test bar


*"i made a test bar 
there was a lot of chatter the first time with a pointed bit, so i did it a second time with a rounded tool bit.
near the chuck i got .918" 
an inch + away from the chuck i got .918"
at about 8" from the chuck i got .919"(rounded up)
at the very end, almost 10" away from the chuck, i got .920" with slight chatter
to be fair, i took an extra spring cut on the far end test pad. 
other than that all things were equal during the test sequence, cut dry.
i'll include the test bar with the lathe when i send it.
all in all i'd say very good for an unmounted lathe with nearly 10" of hang out*

*whaddya think?"







*


I honestly believe when I get this lathe going, it will give me years of good service. If you factor in how the taper test was performed, the  lathe unbolted, and sitting on a pile of wood, and get a thou across 8 inches, that is awesome. Mike's initial evaluation was validated by this test.

In preparation for the lathe arrival and installation, I already bought a Hitachi WJ200 VFD, MKSJ's favorite and his recommendation, got a good deal on a 2 HP Marathon Inverter Motor for $125 and local pick up, and lastly, coming is a 50 ohm, 500 Watt break resistor. The VFD control system will have the usual Mark's whiz bang creation. Mark, thank you in advance.


This is the  same lathe featured in this thread.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/how-to-remove-a-3-jaw-chuck.48288/#post-407939


Mike, Thank you so much for finding this jewel and thank for your all your help.


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## Jason Annen (Jun 28, 2016)

I have that exact machine, but mine is from 1984.  I am the 2nd owner, and the only issue I have had is the power switch failed.  I like mine, but it is a light weight machine.  I doubt I will ever sell mine.

Jason


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## Bamban (Jun 28, 2016)

This one will be bolted to a metal stand that weighs about as much as the lathe itself. The intended use is primarly for chambering AR barrels through the headstock.

If anyone has an Aloris AXA QCTP not being used, please send me a PM, I can use it on this project.


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## kvt (Jun 28, 2016)

That looks like it will be a nice one.   And if that is all that is wrong then it is nice.   I would like to find something affordable like that,   Around here all the old ones are about he price I could buy a PM or Grizzly 10 inch for,   I even looked at prices on a couple up in our area, but when a used 10 inch that I know nothing about  compares in price to a new one,   Then I figure that price is a little high.    If you come up with a good deal let me know.  
Again that one looks nice.


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## FOMOGO (Jun 28, 2016)

Looks like a solid little machine. Enjoy, and kudos to Mike for once again helping out another forum member. Mike


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## Ulma Doctor (Jun 28, 2016)

I'm just happy to help out 
doing good stuff, for good people brings me joy.
if this piece of equipment brings you joy, we both won.

i'm especially happy to help a veteran, thank you for your service Nez- 
and thanks for all else who have served .


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## Bamban (Jun 28, 2016)

Mike,

I am certain it would be pure pleasure to run this lathe. I have a couple of Shilen Select Match barrels waiting to be chambered, these would be the likely candidates to be chambered on this lathe.

nez


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## dlane (Jun 28, 2016)

Practice x3 on somthing else first


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## george wilson (Jul 5, 2016)

That model was my first GOOD lathe. I wish I still had it. The only thing I ever replaced was the motor starting switch.


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## Bamban (Jul 5, 2016)

george wilson said:


> That model was my first GOOD lathe. I wish I still had it. The only thing I ever replaced was the motor starting switch.



Thank you for posting, George.

Another poster on the thread mentioned about the power switch, and the seller of this lathe in his description he also mentioned about the switch. If that is all that gone bad with these little lathes I say, they are pretty well made. 

I've done over a couple of dozen barrels on my ACER 1236 with good runout on the chambers, will see what this Baby Jet can do. I set aside a couple of Shilen Select Match barrels to do on it. Will do them once I get it aligned, and checked out.


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## george wilson (Jul 5, 2016)

My Jet belt drive would turn some steel so smooth,it looked nickel plated! (may have been leaded steel) I can't get that with my gear head 16". I can with my Hardinge belt drive HLVH,fortunately.!!


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## Ulma Doctor (Jul 10, 2016)

here is the shipping crate being built! Part 1


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## Bamban (Jul 10, 2016)

Mike,

That is so solidly built it can even hold a Bridgeport with ease. Must not be your first rodeo.

Nez


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## Ulma Doctor (Jul 10, 2016)

thanks Nez,
i made a few crates over the years, I just never filmed the procedure before.


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## kvt (Jul 10, 2016)

That looks like it will survive a shipping company better than most I have seen.   Looks nice.


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## Ulma Doctor (Jul 10, 2016)

and part's 2-5, for your pleasure....


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## brino (Jul 10, 2016)

No wonder Mike gets so much done, look how fast he moves!
-brino


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## Bamban (Jul 10, 2016)

I have been getting parts for the Baby Jet, here is what I acquired so far based on Mark's recommendation

2 HP Black Max motor
Hitachi VFD
Brake resistor


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## Ulma Doctor (Jul 16, 2016)




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## Bamban (Jul 16, 2016)

Mike, looks real good, maybe much better packing that what the Baby Jet deserves.


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## pdentrem (Jul 17, 2016)

Take any packing you can get. We sent out a set of rolls for a small rolling mill, in a well constructed heavy box. The box was used to ship a similar set from across the country to us. UPS crushed the box shipping it 100 miles. It arrived totally split open and the rolls missing. How can one not see two 40 pound 18" by 6" steel rolls flying around either at the depot or in the trunk?


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## Ulma Doctor (Jul 17, 2016)




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## jpfabricator (Jul 17, 2016)

Build the top angled to a point. The steeper the better so no forklift driver stackers stuff on top.



Sent from somwhere in east Texas by Jake!


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## Bamban (Jul 17, 2016)

Mike,

That looks great. I am getting the garage ready.

Thank you.

nez


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## Bamban (Jul 25, 2016)

The work is about to begin.

The lathe came in today, the crate survived the trip halfway across the US. Thanks to Mike for the superbly constructed crate. 

Here are some pictures.


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## Ulma Doctor (Jul 25, 2016)

i'm happy the lil jet made it there in one piece!
i hope it's not too difficult to remove the lathe from it's crate


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## Bamban (Jul 26, 2016)

Ulma Doctor said:


> i'm happy the lil jet made it there in one piece!
> i hope it's not too difficult to remove the lathe from it's crate



The lathe should be on the stand NLT Thursday.


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## kvt (Jul 26, 2016)

That looks pretty good,   even has the pan,   Now you can adjust where on the stand to mount it.   and have a bigger tray on it as well.


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## Bamban (Jul 27, 2016)

I am afraid the project will be delayed. I am in a severe Asthma attack that even little physical effort triggers wheezing and coughing. My nebulizer is getting a workout as well as my emergency lifeline inhaler. It sucks, but it is what it is, just soldier on.


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## kvt (Jul 27, 2016)

Sorry to hear about your Asthma,   hope it gets better soon,  It did seem like it was bothering you a bit on Sunday.
My work put on hold as well,   Wife is in hospital, she may get out in a day or two more,   Then I might get to work on things again.

Again take care,


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## Ulma Doctor (Jul 27, 2016)

sorry to hear you folks are having troubles. i hope everybody feels better soon.

all the best,
mike


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## Bamban (Jul 30, 2016)

Finally got well enough to restart the work on the Baby Jet. The lathe is not not torqued down to the stand yet, still doing a few things before I do that. Next order of business is to replace the the stock motor with a 2 HP Marathon Black Max. 

Doing some sweeping with the DTS, the lathe is every bit in good shape as Mike Mike descrIves it, if not better. Now discernable wear on the V ways. I took the level to both extremes of the ways and compared the reading in the middle and in the general area where most lathes are used, no significant  between all readings. 

The only things I need to replace or repair is the right side gear change lever. The outer barrel that to release and engage the gear is missing. I will most likely machine 2 units for symmetry. The TS crank is busted, the indicator dial is missing. I am not sure if the crank is one piece or 2 pieces pressed together. Their may be of a challenge. I will take the "buy" option if I can find one. 

Mark started on the VFD system, to give him some ideas on how long to make the interconnect cables, I mocked the installations of the different boxes.  

The orange boxes on top a vertical post is the HS control control box, the other one below the stand top plate is the Directional control box .

The VFD is on the top right side back splash. It will be mounted in free air, I just need to mount it to a metal angle iron that will provide some top sheld over the fan

The external 12V supply is shown behind
the VFD,  final configuration, the power supply will move closer to the pump side and the Logic control Box  will be installed between them. The Logic. Control Box right up next to the VFD wil be 
,

See the progress in pictures


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## kvt (Jul 30, 2016)

Glad you are feeling better.   That looks good,   No pics on mine yet,  But finished up a bunch on the table this morning.   Then got it set on the table,  Not as far along as yours,  but still on the table.  
Wife is out of hospital, ruptured Appendix,   One doctor said it looked like she had swallowed a fire cracker that lodged in her appendix before exploding.    
So I am still pretty far behind where we thought I should be by this time.   I'm hoping to post something and be working by next weekend.  
Also found I had lost 2 knobs on the way home, and a few other things vibrated lose. But still in good shape.


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## Ulma Doctor (Jul 30, 2016)

Hi nez,
i'm happy that you are happy with the 1024P
the stand looks great- how did you come about it?

as far as the TS handwheel-on my shenwai, the  handwheel is an aluminum casting, one piece -bored,keyed.


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## Bamban (Jul 30, 2016)

The stand used to have a sheetmetal top, had it replaced with a 1/2 inch steel plate and had the wheels added and I added the hockey puck adjusters. 

This one appears to be one piece or pressed together 2 pieces, the dial ring is not there either, but may not even worry about the dials, a DRO is easy to install. The wheel is another story, have to figure out a way to remediate it.

It's coming along, cleaning from the TS side working towards the HS. Slowly, to the limits of my bad shoulder can take.


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## kvt (Jul 30, 2016)

nez,   Is that the same back splash,  or  is it the angle,   It looks higher than it use to be.   for some reason.


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## Bamban (Jul 30, 2016)

Same one, just the angle


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## pebbleworm (Jul 31, 2016)

I am drawing a blank on what an "AO" is... Otherwise a neat little machine and a darn nice crate!


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## Bamban (Jul 31, 2016)

AO, area of operation.


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## Tony Wells (Jul 31, 2016)

I had the 36" variant of that lathe a few years ago. The only thing I didn't like about it was an easy fix. The thread dial is tucked in a bit close, so a simple spacer block was made. I moved it out 3/4". Decent lathe. Yours looks very good.


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## Bamban (Jul 31, 2016)

Tony Wells said:


> I had the 36" variant of that lathe a few years ago. The only thing I didn't like about it was an easy fix. The thread dial is tucked in a bit close, so a simple spacer block was made. I moved it out 3/4". Decent lathe. Yours looks very good.



Tony,

Thank you. May I borrow your idea to move the  thread dial away from the apron, 3/4 as you said should be enough.


Nez


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## Tony Wells (Jul 31, 2016)

It was simply a flat aluminum piece milled to the same profile as the thread dial housing. A single bolt holds it on. Very straightforward. I never painted it, but after a while I never even noticed it was there. Sure made me less nervous about threading though.

I didn't want to lose any -Z- axis travel, or as little as possible, so I added only a minimum. That's the first thing to hit the outboard bearing support as you travel right.


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## Bamban (Jul 31, 2016)

Got the stock motor out. In comparison to the Black Max motor, the new replacement, diameter wise and length wise all looks good. The electrical motor connection protective cover of the Black Max motor needs to be modified before I can install the motor.

Pictures attached.


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## kvt (Jul 31, 2016)

I thought you were going to mount it underneath,   The black max also looks to be a bit bigger around from the pics.  Is that going to pose a problem as I know the motors are pretty tight where mounted.


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## Bamban (Jul 31, 2016)

The diameter is not the problem, this machine is framed out differently from yours. The problem is the motor cable connecting housing, it hits the vertical frame of the pulleys the motor drives. I think, I say, I think, because it was rather late last night when I quit that I may miss something, that it is remove the little box and fab a cover for it and swing the motor cables towards the back into abother box, it just might work. Another option is to route the motor cables like the one in yours with protective cover on the cable entry into the housing.

I will try to mock the placement in the cubby hole the motor goes it, but will have to wait for one of my buddies to come over. After injuring my left shoulder, coupled with already injured right, I am sort of worthless right now.


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## mksj (Jul 31, 2016)

Interesting variant on the Blackmax motor, the newer ones have aluminum fining, the BlueMax is heavier like yours and all cast steel. The motor is a surprisingly close size and fit to the stock one for twice the Hp, but then the TENV motors tend to be shorter overall. The BlackMax motor diameter looks a little bigger which is expected. If a few fins need trimming a bit to fit, it  wouldn't be an issue for such light duty.  On the electrical box, if I recall you had a similar issue on your last baby lathe that was retrofitted with a WEG motor. So either mill a low profile box, or you could consider getting a low profile Hammond die cast box, bore a hole in the bottom for the motor wires and mount to the motor. Probably look a lot better than the stock electrical box and no warning stickers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hammond-Manufacturing-1590YBK-92-X-92-X-42MM-BLACK-ALUM-BOX-/390974034312

You might check with Jet on the Tailstock parts, I would dial scale and mount a DRO on the tailstock.


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## kvt (Jul 31, 2016)

Ok,  what did you do to our left shoulder.   I will try to get some pics   Have everything wired up except putting the plug on the end of the cable.   Wired everything and figured safety wise just not put the plug on until everything was ready.   Still have to do the leveling feet (hockey pucks)  Then do the leveling of the lathe itself .


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## Bamban (Jul 31, 2016)

Mark,

As always, we all welcome your thoughts and suggestions on projects in this forum. The hammond box might just be the better option, unless I can talk one of my buddies to run the mill for me and make a low profile box like I did for the previous lathe.

Here are a couple of pictures with BM motor in the hole, showing the belt system in run mode mode (belt tensioned) and the other in service mode.


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## Bamban (Jul 31, 2016)

Ken,

Your lathe is looking good.

On the left shoulder, since my right one is in pain all the time, I began to rely a lot on the left, then I made a bad twisting action as I picked up a metal plate and sharp pain shot to the top of the shoulder. Getting old is not for sissies. We may get wiser with old age, but sometimes we forget we are not young any longer and do some dumb stuff. Just another inconvenience.


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## Bamban (Jul 31, 2016)

Well, got the low profile wiring cover almost done. Just screwed on one bolt to the existing hole, will have to drill and tap a new hole on the motor side, 1/4 x 20. Using the rubber seal that came with the motor the cover should seal well. Staring relief for the wiring will be a screwed on to the Delrin block. Will use the existing terminal strip, but moved it on the upper side of the vertical piece to give more range on wiring.

To finish the motor install I still have the drill new holes through the motor base and the mounting plate, the old holes do not line up well when I position the motor to fit and motor pulley aligned to the driven pulley. Instead of dual pulley I will just use a smaller one and as Mark suggested I will just drive the VFD at higher Frequency. The motor is an overkill for this Baby Jet, but can't have enough HP sometimes. Most likely belt will slip before the motor bogs down.


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## Bamban (Aug 1, 2016)

Made small progress today. Milled off the QCTP T plate to fit the compound and installed the QCTP. Bolted the motor to the mounting plate. That was rather a pain, a shooting buddy did a great job in manhandling that 96 pound gorilla of a motor. Cleaned the 3J that came with the lathe.

Once I got the 3J all cleaned up and out together, I installed my Pacific Tool And Gauge Test Bar and swept it. Looking good. I will add the video once I get it on you tube.


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## Bamban (Aug 1, 2016)

Have y'all seen a chuck with this brand. This what came with Baby Jet 1024.


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## Bamban (Aug 28, 2016)

It has been awhile since I updated the thread. Progress has been slow, but we're getting there. I did not take the lathe down to component level, most of the works is limited to scrubbing the old crud off. The Baby Jet cleaned up nicely.






The lathe is getting the whole enchilada with the VFD, including a proximity sensor.. The wiring and control box was designed and built by Mark. Thanks, bud, appreciate all the help. The lathe being so short, if I were to use a front spider, the proximity sensor and it associated hardware just would not fit between the headstock and the carriage. Mark is redesigning the mounting block. Y'all will like it when you the innovative design. In the meantime, I worked on the VFD system in between doing barrel work on the ACER.

The bottom unistrut houses the incoming power and the wiring from the VFD to the motor. The other unistruts is where the signal cables are routed through.













Next steps:
Mount the directional control box to the front unistrut that is mounted horizontally between the legs.
Mount the proximity sensor ,
Terminate the wiring
Program the VFD
Drill and tap the chuck back palte for set screw to help prevent the chuck from unscrewing itself


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## Bamban (Sep 2, 2016)

Finally managed to finish the wiring on the Baby Jet 1024. All checked well. 

Many Thanks to Mark J and Mike W for all their help on this project. I think this little lathe will serve me well for the years to come.


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## Bamban (Sep 2, 2016)

Last and final update.

Leveled the stand and shimmed the bed feet the best I could. Not perfect, but it should work for now, there is no discernable bed twist. Made a pass on my aluminum test piece to see how the taper is across the 8 inch long aluminum. Pretty for government work. Pictures tell the tale. 

Shimming the bed feet was George Wilson's advise. Thanks, George.

I believe this little green lathe could produce some nice projects. It will be dedicated lathe for chambering AR15 aervice rifle competition barrels .

Thanks to Mark J and Mike W for all their help.


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## duanedr (Nov 27, 2016)

I have the same lathe and while I'm certainly not an expert , it definitely punches above it's weight.  The VFD motor upgrade is coming although it might happen on my mill first.  Would love your plans/parts list if you have them. Great buy and enjoy!


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## Bamban (Nov 27, 2016)

The parts for the control boxes were provided by our own, MKSJ. Not only he provided the parts, he wired the logic control box, the directional control, and the spindle speed control box.  Mark might chime in with wiring diagram and parts list.

I sourced the 2 HP 3P motor, it is a Marathon Black Max. 

All I had to do was lay out the wiring and integrate the boxes.


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## DAT510 (Nov 27, 2016)

Great Thread.  I too am the happy owner of a Jet-1024 Lathe.   I like your VFD upgrade.  I may have to consider that in the future.

I couldn't tell from the picts if you ever got the TS handle and indicator dial you needed.  Grizzly's  G9249 is, as far as I've been able to tell, identical to the Jet-1024, with the exception its a 12x37.  I was missing some of the threading gears on my lathe and ordered a set from Grizzly and they fit perfectly.

Though Grizzly doesn't see the lathe any more.  They still sell parts for it.  Here's a link.  http://www.grizzly.com/products/g9249/parts

Chris


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## Bamban (Nov 28, 2016)

DAT510 said:


> Great Thread.  I too am the happy owner of a Jet-1024 Lathe.   I like your VFD upgrade.  I may have to consider that in the future.
> 
> I couldn't tell from the picts if you ever got the TS handle and indicator dial you needed.  Grizzly's  G9249 is, as far as I've been able to tell, identical to the Jet-1024, with the exception its a 12x37.  I was missing some of the threading gears on my lathe and ordered a set from Grizzly and they fit perfectly.
> 
> ...



Chris,

Thank you for the tip, that will be handy in the future.

I bought a crank from the UK, and it has a dial in Imperial. It came in with 10mm inner bore, bored it out to 12 to fit the TS.

A friend of mine built a wood try for my tool holders, it is indeed quite handy.

Next upgrade would be the newly designed  Proximity sensor from Mark. Over the winter I will remove the pulley system and remount the motor to where it will connect directly to the spindle pulleys. The new mount would havebits legs welded to the base top plate and actual motor plate wpuld be elevated at the same height as the current pulley that drives the spindle pulley.

So far I chambered close to a dozen AR barrels on this little jewel.


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## Subwayrocket (Nov 28, 2016)

Nice little lathe . Never see anything good up here in northeast PA ...tired iron for top dollar


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## Bamban (Nov 28, 2016)

Subwayrocket said:


> Nice little lathe . Never see anything good up here in northeast PA ...tired iron for top dollar



In my neck of the woods the prices are ridiculous. Ulma Doctor found mine in the Sacramento, CA area. He crated and shipped it to me.


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## Subwayrocket (Nov 28, 2016)

Yep , they want 2 and 3 grand for old tired iron around here ... ridiculous, who would pay that . I've gotta start watching that auction place in Connecticut


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## kvt (Nov 28, 2016)

If anyone finds a steady rest for one of these,   Please let me know,


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## Ulma Doctor (Nov 28, 2016)

kvt said:


> If anyone finds a steady rest for one of these,   Please let me know,


i'll keep an eye peel'd for you guys


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## Bamban (Nov 29, 2016)

Subwayrocket said:


> Yep , they want 2 and 3 grand for old tired iron around here ... ridiculous, who would pay that . I've gotta start watching that auction place in Connecticut



Overpriced like this one?    http://easttexas.craigslist.org/tls/5887013479.html


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## kvt (Nov 29, 2016)

That price even looks good compared to some around here.  I could go buy a new lathe for what some want for used around here also.


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## DAT510 (Nov 29, 2016)

Speaking of Rests..... Does anyone have a Follow Rest for the 1024 they could post some pictures of?  If possible, could you include the measurements between the Mounting Holes and from Center Line of the Mounting Holes to the  "Lathe Center" of the Follow Rest?
Mine was missing when I got my lathe, and I've been watching eBay for one to replace it.  I've taken the same measurements on my lathe, and I just like to confirm them and see what the factory Follow Rest looks like.

Thanks in advance,

Chris


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## Bamban (Mar 18, 2017)

[

Just sharing the latest mod on this awesome lathe. The comvetional proximity sensor mount on the V ways is too large to fit between the quick change gear box and the apron, our very own VFD guru, Mark Jacobs, designed and machined a mount that mounts on a flat rail that is bolted to the catch pan. The plate that triggers the sensor is held in place with magnets on the right side of the apron. The sensor system has a fail safe feature, a micro switch that is in series with sensor. Either one will disable the control voltage to the spindle control logic board. Fine tuning for precise stoppage is controlled by a micrometer head sliding the sensor mount, while the course adjustment is acconished by moving the entire assembly along the flat rail and locked down by a the screw.

I chambered over 2 dozens AR15 barrels on this lathe since I had it running, the latest being a batch of 16 Shilen Select Match for our Junior Shooters. This 1024 has been the dedicated one just for chambering, contouring is done on the 1236.

At one time I had the plan to install a 3 axis DRO, but I settled on dial travel indicators. I find these to be more practical to use, watching the needle is much easier than watching numbers fly around.

Here is a picture how the lathe looks now, the 2 videos are samplestill of the sensor capability.















Maybe the last mod on the 1024 is a dial indicator mount like I have 1236 to monitor the tool post instead of the cross slide. For threading  I prefer to monitor the tool post instead of just reading the compound slide dials. Right now is just use a magnetic base indicator holder. As you can see in the other picture I have contoured with the 1024, but with its short bed, I have to chuck up and indicate twice


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## rickontheroad (Jul 11, 2017)

Bamban said:


> For your reading enjoyment here is a little lathe that just might could. Ulma Doctor sourced this jewel from his AO and it is heading to TX soon. This is the Taiwanese made Jet 1024P, a smallish, but stout for its size. There are a couple of broken parts, but nothing of significance, the left change lever and the TS hand wheel.
> 
> The spec is pretty decent for a little guy, 7 3/8 bed width is not that far behind some of the current offerings of larger swing, the PM1340GT at 7 1/2 for example.
> 
> ...


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## rickontheroad (Jul 11, 2017)

Thanks for the operators manual on the jet 1024p. I have been trying to find one for a long time.


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## kvt (Jul 11, 2017)

BamBan  can you send me a copy of the Manual you have ,   this one is a PY vice the P,   a bit newer I think,   Cleaning it up, as some areas still had the original Cosmoline on it and the Skirt had original grease on the gears,   Hardened and ground ways,   that I can still see the grind marks.   but  still have not found a manual on it.


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## DAT510 (Jul 12, 2017)

Jet 1024/1236 manuals can be found here.  No PY specific manual. But the Grizzly manual for their version of the lathe may be the closest as they made until a few years ago. 

http://hobby-machinist.com/resources/categories/jet.636/


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## george wilson (Jul 12, 2017)

THAT JET 1024 is EXACTLY what I had back in the early 70's. Not my FIRST lathe,but my first DECENT lathe! Actually,I was machining in 1959,but I did not have my own lathe till I graduated and had money. I made guitars and other stringed instruments for years before I got my first lathe,and set up a small machine shop of my own.

I was making the patterns (30 of them!) for an 18th. C. fire engine we made in the museum. The 1024 was the only lathe I had. I EEKED through some of the castings that would BARELY swing in the lathe.

I had to MAKE a new steady rest for mine,to turn threads on the hose couplings. They had dogs sticking out on each side. The original steady rest was too small to fit over the dogs. So,I made a pattern for a steady rest that would swing them 5"-6" ? hole in it. We cast it out of BRONZE!. A thing of beauty all finished all over. I still have it,but I hate to sell it,even though it won't fit my 16" lathe! Or not any other lathe save the 1024. It does have many hours of work in it. And,I'm looking to get another 1024,as my Hardinge HLVH only cuts 27 threads. The Jet had a full range of cutting plus metric gears.

I used it for 2 or 3 years,and a LOT. I barely rubbed the grinding marks off the bed. Still perfectly accurate,and GREAT finishes. Some steel turnings looked nickel plated right off the lathe,from the smoother-than-gear head BELT drive. The V ways looked as if they had been ground with a fine cup wheel. Perfectly accurate!

Wholesale tool sells a 12" version of that lathe. But MINE was Taiwan. The WT is CHINESE. You pay more for a new Taiwan lathe these days. They are WORTH MORE!


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## Bamban (Jul 12, 2017)

That is a great endorsement on these little jewels coming from you. 

I tightened the spindle bearing a little on this one, since then all the finished chambers on the barrels I cranked from it dialed in at or near zero with a long reach Interapid. Ever since I acquired this, the 1236 has not seen any AT 15 chambering job.


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