# G4003g - remove top of headstock housing?



## dsymes (Apr 26, 2019)

I’m getting ready to add ISO32 oil and the go through the break-in procedure for my G4003g lathe.  I don’t see anything about removing the top of the headstock housing to examine the inside of the headstock for metal particles and flush them out with mineral spirits after the break-in sequence.  Am also considering putting a couple of magnets in to collect metal particles.

Is removing the top of the headstock housing to do this a good idea?  Does it have a gasket?  Any suggestions?

Also, I’ve been looking for oilers with rubber or plastic nozzles as recommended by Grizzly for the ball-oiler ports.  I like the Goldenrod oilers, but they have the small metal tips that Grizzly seems to be warning about.  What do you folks do?

Thanks,
 Douglas


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## darkzero (Apr 26, 2019)

You can if you want to but I didn't bother, not yet anyway. I just ran a break in procedure, then drained & filled. I change the oil after every winter & the oil comes of clean. For me a I could probably be fine doing it every 2 yrs. Luckily on my lathe I didn't have all kinds of nasty question crap come out like some of the stories you hear. The headstock cover does have a gasket, well my PM1236 does anyway. You don't need to use a gasket, RTV/gasket maker will work just fine. I'm using gray RTV on my mill's gear head cover.

As for oilers Goldenrod does have spouts that fit the ball oilers. This is the type that works on them. https://www.dutton-lainson.com/proddetail.php?prod=301167

This is the the type you should not use on the ball oilers, well not for the size the lathe uses. https://www.dutton-lainson.com/proddetail.php?prod=301017

What Grizzly is warning against is you shouldn't use a tip that has too sharp or a point. The tip should just only depress the ball slightly & the hole should seal on the angle of the tip. If the tip is too sharp it will depress the ball in too far which will over compress the spring & in many case the ball will get stuck down.

I do have Goldenrod with the appropiate tips but I don't use them for the ball oilers. I use those "high pressure" oilers. Mine are just inexpensive $3 plastic ones, I like them cause they're clear & they can pump a lot of pressure. I've had metals one & every single one I had leaked. Of course there are nice high dollar ones like Reilang or you can search for old Eagle oilers but I'm perfectly fine with what I'm using. I bought 6 of the clear plastic ones thinking they wouldn't last long but surprisingly I haven't had one leak or fail yet, been using them for years now.


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## Superburban (Apr 26, 2019)

I removed mine after the break in procedure, and found lots of metal filings inside. I do wish I had opened it up prior to compare it to. I think magnets are a super idea, I have five in mine, and they still collect metal dust. Even though it does not have much hours on it, I still remove the cover every so often, to remove/ clean/ replace the magnets. 

I would recommend taking a look, and adding magnets. Will not hurt anything, do not even need to replace the gasket. If nothing else, you will get a starting point as far as any metal bits in the bottom.


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## jmanatee (Apr 27, 2019)

Not sure if the G4003g is the same as the G4003 but the top of the G4003 casting has channels that let oil flow to the spindle bearings,  You should make sure those are clear and clean.


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## raven7usa (Apr 27, 2019)

Mine had some metal filings when new. cleaned them out and put magnets in the corners then added the oil.


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## Mitch Alsup (May 3, 2019)

I removed and reattached the top of the headstock on my 4003G lathe with no problems found inside or after almost 2 years of use.

Use the nerves in your hand when untorquing the bolts so you can get them back to where they want to be afterwards.


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## dsymes (May 3, 2019)

I should probably report that I had no problem removing and replacing the cover of the headstock.  There was a tiny amount of metal filings in the corner near the drain which I removed with a paper towel.  I will take it off again to drain the oil after breaking using a siphon/pump, both to see what resulted from break-in and also to avoid making a mess.  Can anyone confirm that the plug is 3/8 NPT (part #1116 in manual, purchased 10/2018).  I would like to replace the drain plug with a valve.  Any suggestions?


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## Cadillac (May 3, 2019)

Hard pipe the drain plug. Elbow coming out that converts to a compression line. Use bendable copper like for fridge water line. Put a ball valve on end of tube when it’s where to your likings.


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## Bob Korves (May 3, 2019)

dsymes said:


> I should probably report that I had no problem removing and replacing the cover of the headstock.  There was a tiny amount of metal filings in the corner near the drain which I removed with a paper towel.  I will take it off again to drain the oil after breaking using a siphon/pump, both to see what resulted from break-in and also to avoid making a mess.  Can anyone confirm that the plug is 3/8 NPT (part #1116 in manual, purchased 10/2018).  I would like to replace the drain plug with a valve.  Any suggestions?


Be careful with pipe fittings on import machines.  Sometimes they are BSP instead of NPT.  Don't force things if the thread does not start easily for several revolutions.








						Explanation of common threads including BSP & NPT
					

Explanation and measurement of common thread standards including BSP and NPT and the difference between them.




					www.valvesonline.com.au


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## westerner (May 3, 2019)

Superburban said:


> I removed mine after the break in procedure, and found lots of metal filings inside. I do wish I had opened it up prior to compare it to. I think magnets are a super idea, I have five in mine, and they still collect metal dust. Even though it does not have much hours on it, I still remove the cover every so often, to remove/ clean/ replace the magnets.
> 
> I would recommend taking a look, and adding magnets. Will not hurt anything, do not even need to replace the gasket. If nothing else, you will get a starting point as far as any metal bits in the bottom.


I have a Birmingham GH1236, which I believe is the same lathe, ish. It had very few hours on it when I bought it, and not long after that, I pulled the top cover to inspect. There is a gasket, sealing only the splash of oil thrown around by the gears. Darn sure was some sparkly stuff, tho. Drained, flushed, and refilled. No leaks around the gasket I reused. No silicone or any other sealant other than the gasket. I put a couple of magnets in there, and will revisit the gearcase when I feel the time is right. The sparkly stuff will settle to the bottom, and wont get stirred up too much when the machine is running, I believe. They did NOT want to flow out when I drained the gearcase. I had to agitate/scrub/coerce them out with the flush.


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## darkzero (May 4, 2019)

dsymes said:


> I should probably report that I had no problem removing and replacing the cover of the headstock.  There was a tiny amount of metal filings in the corner near the drain which I removed with a paper towel.  I will take it off again to drain the oil after breaking using a siphon/pump, both to see what resulted from break-in and also to avoid making a mess.  Can anyone confirm that the plug is 3/8 NPT (part #1116 in manual, purchased 10/2018).  I would like to replace the drain plug with a valve.  Any suggestions?



The parts catalog for the G4003g does say that it is 3/8" NPT but I would meaure your drain plug just to be sure. Irrelevent but I have a PM1236 & it does not use pipe threads for any of the drain plugs. I personally don't like using valves in place of drain plugs but that's just my preference. My foot brake arm is in the way & wouldn't allow it anyway.

A ball valve would work but Fumoto does make their valves in 3/8" NPT. Nicer than a standard ball valve IMO, compact with built in nipple.






						F110N | Fumoto® Engine Oil Drain Valves
					

Vehicle Search Results | Fumoto USA Oil Drain Valves




					www.fumotousa.com


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