# MIG progress



## Boswell (Jul 5, 2020)

First, this forum and Welding Tips and Tricks gave me the confidence along with some good product tips to invest in a Hobart 210MVP and all the other stuff I need. My first project was a vertical stock rack. Welds are reasonably solid but pretty ugly. My second project is a welding table. Here are a couple of pictures.


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## mikey (Jul 5, 2020)

When I was learning to Mig weld, the hardest part was seeing the puddle well enough to stay on line. A good helmet helped with that. The second hardest was finding the right setting to ensure adequate penetration. You can have a nice bead on top with very little penetration and that's no good. It just takes practice and it looks like you're off to a good start!


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## DavidR8 (Jul 5, 2020)

That’s a good looking table @Boswell!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## NCjeeper (Jul 5, 2020)

Looks like the weld is just sitting there. Maybe turn down the wire speed so you are not moving so fast and staying alittle longer so you can get the weld penetration you need. If that doesnt work well enough increase the amps or voltage depending on the machine settings.


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## Aukai (Jul 5, 2020)

Your in the ball park, I'm still learning too, looks like it needs to be a little warmer(I think) so the caterpillar lays a little flatter, and it starts to blend in with the base metal at the edges without under cutting. We'll see what the other pro welders have to say in addition to above...


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## Lo-Fi (Jul 6, 2020)

Welds tend to want to sit on top like that and not wet in if you've not cleaned the mill scale off. Take a flap disc to the areas you want to weld and get some bright shiny metal up, then degrease with acetone or isopropyl. You've got good technique already - you'll put down some great welds with a bit of finesse in the prep. As said, maybe a tiny smidge more voltage or lower wire speed too. Nice job for first attempts, though!


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## Old Mud (Jul 6, 2020)

I think that looks dam good for first try. Yes you could try little more heat and or down on wire feed. You may want to try minor adjustments on your gas also. Try small angle changes etc. Try anything but try to remember what you have changed. Even write it down to rember. The rest is practice. Oh and as mentioned, Clean. Good hood, you have to see well. One thing to try is planting your arm/arms whenever you can for stability. Being comfortable is most important. Get your hands in a comfortable position along with your body and even your feet. Lean on whatever is available.  Rest your arms or arm and practice moving for your bead without pulling the trigger. just as you would practicing a putt. Speed, angle and body position really helps.

disclaimer, no i don't golf !!


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## Boswell (Jul 6, 2020)

Thanks all for the great feedback. Youtube is great but nothing beats direct feedback from observations.  When I decided to learn to weld, I had no idea that 90% of the work would not be welding   but cutting, cleaning, preparation, cleanup, painting ....  I have mostly worked in Aluminum before this and Just moving all the steel around is work.


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## brino (Jul 6, 2020)

That is going to be one great welding table!
It should weigh a ton.

I almost always do some practice welds on the same material before doing any real welding.....it helps me find the best machine settings and remember technique if it's been a while, or if switching from TIG to MIG.

-brino


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## Janderso (Jul 6, 2020)

Looks great Boswell.
As others have said, your speed and settings make all the difference. 
I try to get the settings down first with scraps of the same material I'm going to weld. 
You are well on your way, that table has good clamping opportunities and if you need to replace a panel for any reason-easy peasy.


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## Boswell (Jul 6, 2020)

I can't take credit for the table design. I looked at hundreds of pictures on google and picked one that was a mix of sturdy, functional and within my skills to build.

I plan to paint all but the top surface to prevent rust. What do people do to prevent rust on the top surface? I don't have a large rust problem where I am but eventually any untreated surface will rust. I am just assuming that wiping down with oil is not advisable on a welding table.


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## Old Mud (Jul 7, 2020)

Boswell said:


> I plan to paint all but the top surface to prevent rust. What do people do to prevent rust on the top surface? I don't have a large rust problem where I am but eventually any untreated surface will rust. I am just assuming that wiping down with oil is not advisable on a welding table.



   Use it a LOT !!


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## NCjeeper (Jul 7, 2020)

Boswell said:


> What do people do to prevent rust on the top surface?


I use a scotch brite wheel on my angle grinder and WD 40 on mine. Usually only have to do this about twice a year.


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## General Zod (Jul 10, 2020)

Welds are look cold as evidenced by the sharp toe angle to the base metal.  Part of it might have been settings, and part of it will have been not cleaning the millscale off.  Millscale is an oxide (of iron), and when there all the deoxidizers in the filler metal have been depleted "eating up" what ever oxides they could, the remaining oxides have no where to go and stay mixed-in within the puddle and they make it sluggish because they increase the surface tension of the weld puddle (reduced "fluidity"); this causes the puddle to not want to wash out on the toes/edges and behaves more like a bead of water on a waxed car (as a visual example).  Always practice on scrap first!    Even then, I doubt they will break unless they are severely stressed with a very large load.


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## Boswell (Jul 10, 2020)

When I welded the frame, I took great care to use a flap wheel to clean the mating surfaces to bright metal. When moved to the surface 1x3 tubes, I got lazy and only degreased them. I have four more to attache this weekend and will use the flap wheel on the surfaces. When I decided I wanted to learn to weld, I had no idea that 80% of the work would be cleaning and surface prep instead of actual welding.


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## Aukai (Jul 10, 2020)

I grind clean, and wipe with lacquer thinner. 
Do not use Brakleen red to prep it gets into cracks, stays wet, and when heated the smoke has a nerve agent in it. (it's on the can)


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## NCjeeper (Jul 10, 2020)

Yep green can is non-chlorinated.


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## General Zod (Jul 10, 2020)

Aukai said:


> I grind clean, and wipe with lacquer thinner.
> Do not use Brakleen red to prep it gets into cracks, stays wet, and when heated the smoke has a nerve agent in it. (it's on the can)


only chlorinated brakleen is deadly. non-chlorinated is safe as long as it evaporates. Not sure which can the red is though.


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## Aukai (Jul 10, 2020)

Green is non chlorinated, red is dangerous. When they get into a joint it takes a bit for them to evaporate.


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## General Zod (Jul 10, 2020)

Aukai said:


> Green is non chlorinated, red is dangerous. When they get into a joint it takes a bit for them to evaporate.



Got it.  When possible, I wipe with acetone to remove oil/grease, then I get rid of millscale before ever assembling a joint.


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