# Help wiring a Dayton motor SB9A



## Shackelford R (Jun 11, 2021)

Ok so I need a little help the South bend 9A that followed me home was overhauled not painted (although I should have but no space, I installed a South bend switch and got away from the floppy pole with a switch. I found 1 black wire taped off and the Green wire (Ground or Neutral) coming from the outlet wire, there are 6 black wires coming out of the motor. Also there are multiple wires in the wire nuts some have 3. I just want it wired properly. I wired the barrel switch as it came apart same with outlet plug, I replaced both the 6 conductor wire and the wire to the wall. I used very heavy gauge wire for both (what I could get). I will try to include pics and sorry for the terminology I am no electrician. How is this suppose to be wired correctly? It did run before.


----------



## markba633csi (Jun 11, 2021)

Hi, let me peruse your pictures and I'll post back
Do you want to wire it up with the drum switch or without?  In either case, we need to identify the leads. Do you have a multimeter available?
Have you examined the motor leads closely? It looks like the numbers were printed on the wires and some may still be visible.
If you can make out any that would help.
-Mark


----------



## Shackelford R (Jun 12, 2021)

Yes I want to wire in the drum switch I already wired it in just like the old one but I am not sure if its's technically  correct but it did work (meaning old switched when it was plugged in). I do have a multi meter, and only 3 are marked and sort of legible. The yellow wire nut on the left of back of the motor going to pink wire one is marked T2. the taped up wire is labeled P2 and the yellow wire nut right side bottom that comes from the power cord is labeled T4 I think its hard to read. Thanks for your time Mark.


----------



## markba633csi (Jun 12, 2021)

OK Is there a diagram of the drum switch contacts? Usually it's inside the cover
I can't quite piece it together from the photos, we will need to do a couple tests with your meter to be certain
I think it would be faster and more efficient to just disconnect everything and start from scratch.  Keep track of the taped wire labeled P2, put a masking tape label on it- disconnect all the other 6 motor wires.
1) Put your meter on ohms and start probing pairs of wires starting with P2. There should be one other wire (and only one other) that gives continuity, that will be P1.
Find it and label it clearly.
2) Then, find two other pairs that each give a steady low resistance reading, less than 10 ohms each pair.  Label them pair a and pair b. These are the two run windings. If you can see any numbering on the wires themselves then make more legible masking tape labels for those.
3) Now, you should have one last pair that gives a low reading then climbs toward infinite ohms.  Reverse the test leads, the reading should repeat
That is your start leg T5 and T8.  Label them, doesn't matter which is which.
Let me know when you get to this point, or if any of this is confusing

-Mark


----------



## Shackelford R (Jun 12, 2021)

It ran fine, essentially I'm installing new wires and questioning the way it was wired. I'm guessing if I wire it in same way and fix ground it will be good. But there are 7 wires coming out of the motor, is the 7th one that is taped up the ground or should I ground to case?


----------



## Shackelford R (Jun 12, 2021)

If it was 6 wires coming out of the motor I would just find the pairs and make sure they are correct but the 7th wire confuses me.


----------



## markba633csi (Jun 12, 2021)

Well, if the taped up wire is P2 and is not connected then it is not wired correctly and the thermal overload is bypassed. I would recommend tracing out the wires to be sure but it's up to you
-M


----------



## Shackelford R (Jun 12, 2021)

Yeah I need to trace all wires, I might do that this evening. and try to figure it out the ordered pairs for hi and low.


----------



## Shackelford R (Jun 12, 2021)

Just traced all the wires coming out of the motor and found another marking.  P2 was taped up, Pink,T3, and an unmarked were tired together with a yellow wire nut. Nothing at the black wire going to wall outlet. All I figured out so far. Its weird to me I remember in a 6 wire there would be 3 pairs but since this is 7 I'm kind of lost. 

T4 Green to T3 2.25 Ohms
Gray to P2 .12 Ohms
Pink to Gray 2.30 Ohms 
Pink to P2 2.30 Ohms 

Correct me if I'm wrong but my P2, Pink and gray are 1 coil with the overload?
T4 and T3 are the other coil?
So the Black from the wall outlet and T8are the capacitor but even when I reverse my meter Leeds I beeps for a second than nothing.


----------



## markba633csi (Jun 12, 2021)

Grey might be P1 and the reading is somewhat high. It may be the thermal is faulty and the previous owner bypassed it on purpose.
I would say at this point if it seems to be working then call it good, button it up and make chips. I thought perhaps it wasn't working at all.
Was there a contact diagram in the switch cover? I was curious about that. There are two basic styles of drum switch, not sure which flavor you have there
It would help explain the hookup if we could see that
Yes T3 and T4 are one run winding,
P1 and T2 are the other one.  Not sure if P1 is grey or pink.
Your meter beep is correct, the beep is the low resistance then it climbs.  With a needle meter you see a swing low then high
-M
Remember though you won't get valid tests if some wires are still wirenutted together- they have to be separated to make hide or hare of it


----------



## Shackelford R (Jun 13, 2021)

There is no wiring diagram on either the South Bend Switch or the Dayton I took off. 

Is there a way to test the thermal protection? Maybe resistance between P1 and P2 or?

I did separate all wires after I labeled and took notes of what went where. 

Someone on another forum gave me a diagram. I've been using it to figure out what's what. 

I am sure now that the gray wire is P1 and the Pink is T2.

Testing T8 to black which looks like T5 is the Beep to OL (out of limits).

I hope this makes sense Thank you for your time mark.


----------



## markba633csi (Jun 13, 2021)

Good you got the motor diagram.  P1 to P2 should be very low resistance like less than a couple ohms
So on your original hookup did T5 and T8 go to the middle two drum switch terminals?  
3 and 4 on this diagram:
This is what I call a "hockey stick" switch


----------



## markba633csi (Jun 13, 2021)

If your switch is the standard "hockey stick" type as above, then this is how it should connect:


----------



## Shackelford R (Jun 13, 2021)

I get .12 ohms at P1 and P2

The middle of the switch were T8 orange or tan pic kind of sucks and P2 pink.

T5 is the unmarked and went to the power cord if I have my notes correct.


----------



## Shackelford R (Jun 15, 2021)

Got it wired up per diagram but it hums real low but spins if I turn pullies by hand it will spin slow. I'm guessing its wired for 220V?


----------



## Shackelford R (Jun 15, 2021)

Double post.


----------



## Shackelford R (Jun 17, 2021)

I found a way to test the protection switch according to what I read online I checked resistance of P1 and P2 and its suppose to go to 0 Ohms and it did not so I am going to sat its bad, which would explain the way it was wired. So now I am trying to bypass it. I wish I still had the pictures of the way it was in the motor but they did not save on my phone.


----------



## Shackelford R (Jun 18, 2021)

I'm still not having any luck. It spins but slow in one direction and faster in the other, I always here a pop before it gets to full speed (I figure this is the TP) and if its slow I can stop it by hand and if I give it a barely a tiny turn of the pulley it will spin in the opposite direction.


----------



## Shackelford R (Jun 21, 2021)

Ok, so I am not much further I have tested the TP with heat it tested good it lost continuity when it got hot.  it seams to be ok in one direction but not another but also spins both ways if I stop it with my hand in forward, but in reverse it speeds up until it clicks or pops than it stops. I disconnected the TP or tried too but same issue. 
 Here is a diagram of where I currently am. I will try again tomorrow. If it helps the switch is a South Bend Furnas R4.


----------



## kajungizmo (Jun 26, 2021)

Hi!
I was following your thread, as i am in a similar situation. I bought an old SB 9C. When i got it the drum switch had been tampered with. Wiring was a total hack job and the motor only turned in one direction. I got mine sorted and running in both directions... for about 3 cycles. Then it quit. I took the motor apart and found the centrifugal switch just plain wore out. 
Did you ever get yours running up to speed in both directions?

Kirk


----------



## Shackelford R (Jun 28, 2021)

I id but not correctly. I am still working through it, But I did find out the switch is not the double L but a diffrent style when I did a continuity check to compare switches.


----------



## Shackelford R (Jun 29, 2021)

Ok, so I was looking at the different diagrams today and think I found a way that will work but I wanted more opinions before I hooked it up, and if I still think its the Thermal protection I will bypass it. I have also included the continuity diagram of my switch.  Any input will be apricated. First pic is the continuity test of the switch it is not the double L and the second one is what I think will work.


----------



## markba633csi (Jul 2, 2021)

OK I see the problem, you have a 3-phase reversing switch which requires a different hookup
I'll post another sketch
-M
Give this a try:


----------



## Shackelford R (Jul 2, 2021)

That did the trick I hope this thread helps someone else I cant thank the people who helped me enough.


----------

