# About to order a PM-1022v.. Anyone want to talk me down? LOL



## BellyUpFish

I'm a total novice.  I've never turned anything on a real lathe..

Was all set on a G0602 until someone suggested I take a look at the PM-1022v..

For the $$ over the G0602 if seems well worth it.

Anyone?


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## xalky

I think you'll be very happy with it. No talk down here. 

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk


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## David Kirtley

Here, I will help you out:

Don't buy it.

Go for the 1127VF


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## Smudgemo

If you're anything like me, you won't really know what you want until you actually use it for a while.  If you spend $1,300 for a lathe (just a number I pulled out of my hat) and realize next year you want more features or size (or to get rid of the hobby altogether), will you beat yourself up over selling it for $800 or so?  That's just expecting a sale of 60-70% from new (I personally wouldn't pay more for something used that is still available new.)   If not, buy either one and don't stress over it.  I didn't look at either one, but cross-feed is sure nice to have if either doesn't.

Grizzly has been wonderful for customer service for an issue I had with my mill, and a month ago Quality Machine was helpful and promised me delivery of my new mill by mid-Feb (it's in transit), so I've had good experiences so far from both places.

-Ryan


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## wrmiller

Once you get the basics down, what do you want to do with your lathe? I think if you can answer this, it will give you a better idea of what lathe to get.

Are you looking at that size lathe because you have size constraints (small workspace)? Or is just your sweet spot for what you want to spend?

Both companies have top notch service reputations, and I have bought stuff from both. I recently purchased one of PM's bench mills and can happily report a pleasant experience.

I and everyone else here have their on personal preferences and priorities when purchasing tools. I really think you need to figure out what you're going to do with this lathe so people can be of better assistance.

Bill


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## BellyUpFish

wrmiller19 said:


> Once you get the basics down, what do you want to do with your lathe? I think if you can answer this, it will give you a better idea of what lathe to get.
> 
> Are you looking at that size lathe because you have size constraints (small workspace)? Or is just your sweet spot for what you want to spend?
> 
> Both companies have top notch service reputations, and I have bought stuff from both. I recently purchased one of PM's bench mills and can happily report a pleasant experience.
> 
> I and everyone else here have their on personal preferences and priorities when purchasing tools. I really think you need to figure out what you're going to do with this lathe so people can be of better assistance.
> 
> Bill



I have no real expected use out of the thing..

I mean, I want to make a shift knob for one of my cars and a slide hammer attachment for my vice grips. LOL.  I've been trying to look at projects over the last 6 months or so and say "where would a lathe/mill have come in handy?"  Lots of places.  I think it'll just be one of those things you don't need until you have then you'd be lost with out it.  Like a drill press, 20T press, etc, etc.

I don't see getting into heavy machining and I am a bit size constrained at my house. I could take it to the hangar and go huge, but I'd never use it over there.  I'm planning on buying a lathe in the next couple weeks and a mill this fall, if I don't talk myself into a mill first.

Right off the bat, it seems like a mill might be used more, I could have attempted to use it today.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## David Kirtley

Well, another option is to go down to the 7x or 8x size. Even down to the Sherline or Taig size. Even if I went out and got a big lathe, I wouldn't get rid of my little 7x14. It really is a nice size and a lot of bang for the buck.

Disclaimer:  If I need something large turned, I can take it to work and use full sized machines if needed.


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## BellyUpFish

David Kirtley said:


> Well, another option is to go down to the 7x or 8x size. Even down to the Sherline or Taig size. Even if I went out and got a big lathe, I wouldn't get rid of my little 7x14. It really is a nice size and a lot of bang for the buck.
> 
> Disclaimer:  If I need something large turned, I can take it to work and use full sized machines if needed.



Yeh, I think a mini lathe might leave me wanting at some point.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## darkzero

David Kirtley said:


> Here, I will help you out:
> 
> Don't buy it.
> 
> Go for the 1127VF



Agreed but I will talk you up even more, get the PM1127VF-LB! :lmao:  

But seriously, the PM1030V IMHO is a much better purchase over the G0602. Just the fact that the PM has both carriage & cross slide feeds is worth it alone. The PM also lists right & left hand threading. Not sure if that requires having to install an idler gear like on the HF8x14 but it's a great option to have that the G0602 doesn't seem to have. You may not think you'll need to ever cut LH threads but feeding LH may come in handy too. I finish feed LH at times when needed & never needed to cut a LH thread until today.

Don't forget to posts pics when you get it!


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## chuckorlando

I'm a mill guy my self. Guys make awsome stuff on a lathe. But for what I want and do, a mill is the way to go. I even got a wild idea for turning on the mill. But truth is, around here small lathes can be had for as little as 300. You dont find 300 dollar mills. The wife gives me a decent chunk to spend so I'm on a mill. I can find the cheap lathe any day. I enjoy running the lathes, cutting threads, and all that. But I just have tons of ideas that cant be made with no mill





BellyUpFish said:


> I have no real expected use out of the thing..
> 
> I mean, I want to make a shift knob for one of my cars and a slide hammer attachment for my vice grips. LOL.  I've been trying to look at projects over the last 6 months or so and say "where would a lathe/mill have come in handy?"  Lots of places.  I think it'll just be one of those things you don't need until you have then you'd be lost with out it.  Like a drill press, 20T press, etc, etc.
> 
> I don't see getting into heavy machining and I am a bit size constrained at my house. I could take it to the hangar and go huge, but I'd never use it over there.  I'm planning on buying a lathe in the next couple weeks and a mill this fall, if I don't talk myself into a mill first.
> 
> Right off the bat, it seems like a mill might be used more, I could have attempted to use it today.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Ray C

If you ask me, lathes up to 14-40 can still be used to turn small things.  In a ballpark way, lathes between 9" and 14" have the same features, feeds and speeds -just different size chucks.  The breakoff point really seems to be the 15 and 16" units where top speeds take a nose dive because nobody in their right mind spins a chuck that big at high RPMs.  Not only is it not necessary, it's dangerous.

That said, most folks simply don't want the hassle of owning/moving a 14" lathe and believe me, you can do some awesome work on those little 1127's.  My recommendations for specific units are a little different because, I know the machines pretty well.  For all practical purposes, for the work that folks do here there are only 5 specific units that I recommend.  -All of them are good and fine units but, from a hobbyist to serious garage shop kinda operation, there are only 5 units that make economic/functional sense.

Anyhow, let me know if you have specific questions as, I'm pretty familiar with that product line and I help Matt support the machines -especially the "small guy" buyers...


Ray


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## DoogieB

I'm shopping right now for this size of lathe as well.  Here's some things I've found:

First off, it's crazy not to enjoy variable speed control for these small lathes.  So for Grizzly, you want the G0752, the variable speed version of the G0602.  The PM1022V and the G0752 are basically the same price.

The PM1022V is obviously a UTS (inch) version of the Weiss WM250V-F.  Here's the link:

http://www.weiss.com.cn/products_detail/&productId=206.html

It's the same down to the blue paint.  The G0752 seems to be from the same manufacturer, but Grizzly is big enough to get a few changes to make it unique beyond the paint job.  Here's what I've found:

Motor:  The G0752 uses a VFD to control a 3-phase AC motor.  The PM1022V uses a DC motor.

Chuck:  The G0752 uses a threaded chuck.  The PM1022V has something different (bolted?).

Tailstock:  The G0752 has a MT#3 barrel with 2 1/2" travel.  The PM1022V has a MT#2 barrel with 3" travel.

Both lathes use change gears for threading.  You have step-up to the 12" lathes to get a full QC gearbox.

One big difference is the PM1022V has power crossfeed which I assume is powered from a slotted leadscrew.  Another is left and right hand threading support from the factory.  These are two "basic" lathe features that are missing from the G0752.  The PM1022V is the only lathe in this size class that has power crossfeed that I've found.

While you have to put-up with annoying change gears, the G0752 has excellent threading capabilities with full metric support (coarse and fine) for sizes M1.6-M30.  Full support for UTS (coarse and fine) for sizes #1-1".

For the next part, I'm assuming the PM1022V and PM1127VF have the same thread coverage.

The PM1022V has the same annoying change gears, but for some reason thread coverage isn't as complete as the G0752.  UTS is good, with coarse and fine support for sizes #3-1".  Metric support is more spotty, with support for M3-M24 but missing M4 (.7), M5 (.8) and M12 (1.75).   This kinda sucks because one of the major strengths of buying a import lathe is for good metric support that is missing in the classic USA iron.

And, oh yeah, one's blue and one's green.


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## tripletap3

Good research Doogie. Just to add my 2 cents from what I have seen. The power cross feed is worth its weight in gold as far as a feature. I lived without it for years and now that I have it I cant imagine doing with out it. Also don't get hung up on the list of threads that are shown on the list unless you know there is a weird pitch you need for a specific project. Real fine threads (60+) are a waste of space on the chart and are unpractical to cut on this type of lathe anyway. Besides thread pitch is based on gear math and most machines of the same mfg. or design include the same gears.  Gear changes are a pain but you have to go quite a bit larger and or more $$ than a 12" lathe before you can get away from all gear changing if you want to do metric and standard.

BTW . Metric 30? I am not sure what kind of part would have a metric 30 pitch but I cant help to think it wont fit in a 10" lathe if it did.


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## wrmiller

BellyUpFish said:


> I have no real expected use out of the thing..
> 
> I mean, I want to make a shift knob for one of my cars and a slide hammer attachment for my vice grips. LOL.  I've been trying to look at projects over the last 6 months or so and say "where would a lathe/mill have come in handy?"  Lots of places.  I think it'll just be one of those things you don't need until you have then you'd be lost with out it.  Like a drill press, 20T press, etc, etc.
> 
> I don't see getting into heavy machining and I am a bit size constrained at my house. I could take it to the hangar and go huge, but I'd never use it over there.  I'm planning on buying a lathe in the next couple weeks and a mill this fall, if I don't talk myself into a mill first.
> 
> Right off the bat, it seems like a mill might be used more, I could have attempted to use it today.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



If I had known about PM before I bought my lathe, I would have seriously looked at the 1127 large bore. I don't know if I would have gotten it, as its size would have taken space away from other tools/machines I have in my little space. No one makes my ideal lathe in a size I can handle, but this one comes closer than some.

Bill


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## Ray C

tripletap3 said:


> Good research Doogie. Just to add my 2 cents from what I have seen. The power cross feed is worth its weight in gold as far as a feature. I lived without it for years and now that I have it I cant imagine doing with out it. Also don't get hung up on the list of threads that are shown on the list unless you know there is a weird pitch you need for a specific project. Real fine threads (60+) are a waste of space on the chart and are unpractical to cut on this type of lathe anyway. Besides thread pitch is based on gear math and most machines of the same mfg. or design include the same gears.  Gear changes are a pain but you have to go quite a bit larger and or more $$ than a 12" lathe before you can get away from all gear changing if you want to do metric and standard.



Something else to know...  It's not accurate to say that all machines that look the same are coming from Weiss and being sold by different distributors.  -That is not always the case, trust me on that...  Weiss is not the only game in China and there are many factories making what looks like the same thing!

Also, be careful about slicing and dicing every specification out of the spec sheets.  Most of the time, the spec sheets have errors due to being out-of-date (or improperly translated).  In about an hour or two, I'm set to talk with Matt about the actual specs on that machine.

We can talk for days about all the differences of these machines but, let me get right to the point.  The 1127VF is fine for most folks who want a small and full-featured lathe.  If you need the large bore, I would skip the "LB" version of the 1127 and go right to the PM1236.  After that comes the 1340GT which is a sweet, sweet lathe with an auto gearbox.  My next favorite is the 1440HD which is what I have my eye on now.  Outstanding lathe for the price.  If you want a Cadillac 14" lathe, then look at the RML "V" version lathes.  If you want a 16 to 22" lathe, I would recommend the "Modern" brand that Matt carries but is not listed on his website.  That is a brand he sells to the "big boys".

There you have it, my picks:

112VF  (Perfect machine. Full featured for the guy with limited workspace).
PM1236  (No nonsense, damn good lathe that I use every day).
PM1340GT  (Full-featured, Sweet Lathe.  Artisan's lathe, well finished).
PM1440HD  (Best rugged 14" machine out there that cuts precise too).
1440RML-V  (Cadillac at Pontiac prices).
16-22" Modern Brand:  Equivalent to old-time Leblond at 1/2 the price.  -Way beyond hobby-class.

You can buy whatever machine you want from whatever vendor you're comfortable with but, these size-class machines are the backbone of the folks here.  Of course, I am not talking about the ultra-mini units...

Hope that saves someone a lot of hassle...  -And I reiterate:  Not all machines that look the same are coming from the same factory!

Ray


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## tripletap3

Ray, I agree with that 100% and I have beet that drum numerous times here. There are numerous factories making the same design as (most) machine tool designs are freely shared in China and importers like to protect their sources.  I was using the example information that was posted of both machines being Weiss or Weiss copies.


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## Ray C

tripletap3 said:


> Ray, I agree with that 100% and I have beet that drum numerous times here. There are numerous factories making the same design as (most) machine tool designs are freely shared in China and importers like to protect their sources.  I was using the example information that was posted of both machines being Weiss or Weiss copies.



No worries...  And just as I thought, those machines are not both Weiss and there are a couple factories making that pattern machine.  Matt is checking into the issue of the specific threading capabilities.  Standby for that.  All I can say is that nobody has called him to complain about it's lack of threading ability.  To some extent, this situation is similar to how some folks will say that lathe ABC is better than lathe XYZ because ABC can do 211 TPI and XYZ cannot.  -Pure poppycock...  Nobody in their right mind uses these kinds of lathes to make threads finer than about 48 to 56 TPI -and even then, you need a carbide sewing needle to do it...  Similarly, making really coarse threads on a light machine doesn't make too much sense.  


Ray


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## BellyUpFish

Wow.. All good stuff.. 

I really think the 10x22 will get me by.. 

Just need to suss out what to get first.


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## burtonbr

This is a great discussion n the differences of the different models, keep it going .

 I've been following all the discussions comparing the different lathe models and features lately too, thinking that I would order one soon too, finally sold an old '78 shovelhead I've been wanting out of my garage :thumbsup: ,  so have some extra cash now just gotta decide.
All the features and comparing specs are confusing me a bit. Does the PM 10" and PM1127 Have gears to change for different threading or is that a advantage of the PM1127 that the threads are changed by changing levers ?


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## Ray C

The 10 and 11" units have change gears.

LOL:  Matt thinks I'm crazy for not liking the 10" unit but, I really like lathes that have a separate feedrod and leadscrew.  Once you get used to that, it's hard not to have it.


Ray







burtonbr said:


> This is a great discussion n the differences of the different models, keep it going .
> 
> I've been following all the discussions comparing the different lathe models and features lately too, thinking that I would order one soon too, finally sold an old '78 shovelhead I've been wanting out of my garage :thumbsup: ,  so have some extra cash now just gotta decide.
> All the features and comparing specs are confusing me a bit. Does the PM 10" and PM1127 Have gears to change for different threading or is that a advantage of the PM1127 that the threads are changed by changing levers ?


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## k1pyp

Hello everyone.   I recently joined this forum and this is my first post and may be I can post something useful since I got a PM1022V a few days ago (I am in the process of cleaning the machine.)  I never used a lathe before and did a lot researching and decided on either Grizzly G0602 or PM1022V.   I also looked into to PM1127 but decided against it because it was too heavy and too big for my small garage.  

For me, the main advantage of PM1022 V over G0602 are:

-Power cross feed
-Variable speed DC motor
-Half nut is not used for powerfeed.  There is a key cut into to the lead screw for driving a worm gear for both longitudinal and cross feed.  From what I can tell, G0602 uses the half nut for both powerfeed and threading.

The main advantage of G0602 is that there is more threading option.  PM1022V only has 18 imperial and 8 metric threading capability (although the spec indicates 21 imperial and 18 metric which are wrong).

Paul


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## mattthemuppet2

the PM1022/ 30 is a lovely looking lathe and the PM1030 would be on my list if I was in the market. Another one to check out is the DROPRO's Seig SC8. Similar size and features from what I can tell, although I haven't looked into it too deeply. Breze on here and homeshopmachinist likes his alot:
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/th...Sieg-SC8-lathe-I-now-have-one?highlight=Breze


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## k1pyp

mattthemuppet said:


> the PM1022/ 30 is a lovely looking lathe and the PM1030 would be on my list if I was in the market. Another one to check out is the DROPRO's Seig SC8. Similar size and features from what I can tell, although I haven't looked into it too deeply. Breze on here and homeshopmachinist likes his alot:
> http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/th...Sieg-SC8-lathe-I-now-have-one?highlight=Breze



I think Sieg SC8 (size is 11x30)  is closer in size to PM1127.


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## Dan_S

Ray C said:


> The 10 and 11" units have change gears.
> 
> LOL:  Matt thinks I'm crazy for not liking the 10" unit but, I really like lathes that have a separate feedrod and leadscrew.  Once you get used to that, it's hard not to have it.
> 
> 
> Ray



what the 3rd rod on the pm 12x36 for?


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## darkzero

Dan_S said:


> what the 3rd rod on the pm 12x36 for?



Spindle power, forward & reverse.


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## Dan_S

darkzero said:


> Spindle power, forward & reverse.



So you can trun the spindle on and off and reverse direction from the carriage?


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## darkzero

Dan_S said:


> So you can trun the spindle on and off and reverse direction from the carriage?



Yes, that is how most of the larger import lathes are operated, mostly 12x & up. There is also a jog button on the headstock/faceplate.


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## mattthemuppet2

k1pyp said:


> I think Sieg SC8 (size is 11x30)  is closer in size to PM1127.



you're right, it is. just had the 2 stuck together in my mind for some reason!


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## NoobCanuk

My 1030v  just arrived today.  If you want my opinion the 1030v is huge.  And the colors are awesome.   Personally I think it is worth the wait.  I haven't gotten it out of the crate yet but it is a lot bigger than I expected. And that isn't mentioning the stuff it comes with.

I got the QCTP  with mine plus a live center and keyless chuck.  The pics were taken a few minutes ago out in my garage.  So I haven't had time to really look it over but I can tell you it is huge.


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## jdsc

Out of the crate yet? Interested in your thoughts and impressions.


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## BellyUpFish

NoobCanuk said:


> My 1030v  just arrived today.  If you want my opinion the 1030v is huge.  And the colors are awesome.   Personally I think it is worth the wait.  I haven't gotten it out of the crate yet but it is a lot bigger than I expected. And that isn't mentioning the stuff it comes with.
> 
> I got the QCTP  with mine plus a live center and keyless chuck.  The pics were taken a few minutes ago out in my garage.  So I haven't had time to really look it over but I can tell you it is huge.
> 
> View attachment 113138
> View attachment 113139



So.. What do you think of it?


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## NoobCanuk

I made the mistake of thinking a tiny Asian guys idea of snug is the same as mine.  So while tightening up some bolts on it I stripped them.  I talked to Matt and he has a replacement for the qctp being shipped to me no problems and no charge.   The other bolt I stripped I can't remember the name for it but it was a small T bolt to hold the cross slide down.  I told Matt I would replace that myself so I could upgrade it to a higher grade bolt.  I just got the bill for it.... ouch.  But when I was using it the machine was solid and cut the scrap metal I found at work like butter.  It is a nice machine and actually quite a lot quieter than I was expecting. I don't have much tooling for it yet as my budget is very tight. But I'd honestly say I think the machine is a huge step up from a mini lathe like I see in princess auto (they sell a 7 X 14 ).  I am brand new to machining so can't honestly compare it to other lathes, but my advice would be to lightly snug the bolts down when you first get it.  I didn't have mine long before I stripped the bolts so I ordered a few spares for the T bolts.  You really don't want to know how much a simple bolt costs to get machined up where I live... most expensive bolts I hope to ever buy in my life lol.  I went to all the bolt stores I have in town and nobody would even give me a suggestion on where to get them other than go to a machine shop and have them built.  One shop said I'd need to order a min of 100 for them to build them for me.

So my opinion so far is the overall machine is really nice but some of the bolts need to be upgraded.   I will likely try my hand at machining a few spare tool post bolts when I get it back up and running again to be safe.  But the finish on the machine and build is really nice.  Only part that came dinged up was the chip tray.  One of the bolts holding it in place came undone so it bounced around in transit and got a few scratches I can live with.  The one big drawback I don't like about the machine though is the no stand with it.  Until I can save up the money to get a solid stand welded up mine is on a wooden bench.

Sorry I can't give you a great writeup like some guys can, but my experience in machining is extremely limited so I don't have much to compare this machine to.  Personally I am happy with it from the time I did get to spend on it though.

Oh yeah the one thing I found to be a minor pain in the neck though was those above mentioned t bolts and the nuts used to tighten them.  When the cross slide is swung straight so it is directly above the nuts, you need a really thin wrench to snug down the cross slide at your desired angle.  I got lucky and had a special wrench for my drill press that fit the nuts and is only a couple mm thick so it fit perfectly.   But I guess in order to fit a qctp onto a lathe this size it had to  lowered and certain spaces had to be reduced.   That was probably my only complaint so far.

I am learning to change gears to cut different threads and it took me a while to get the hang of it plus I did make a custom punch jto get the center ring out of the gears because they are super tight.  But it is a lot easier to swap gears now and I think I am getting the right gears in the correct places now lol.  Took me a while before I realized I had the gears in the wrong orders.  But I think I got that oops corrected finally.


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## planeflyer21

NoobCanuk said:


> I made the mistake of thinking a tiny Asian guys idea of snug is the same as mine.  So while tightening up some bolts on it I stripped them.



Been there, done that.  Only took me a couple of snapped off bolt heads and several hours with easy outs (on more than one occasion) to realize snug was usually just fine.


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## tmarks11

k1pyp said:


> -Half nut is not used for powerfeed.  There is a key cut into to the lead screw for driving a worm gear for both longitudinal and cross feed.  From what I can tell, G0602 uses the half nut for both powerfeed and threading.


That is a huge plus.


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## NoobCanuk

I finally got to check the new bolts and they fit perfectly.   The original ones that hold the cross slide in place we're actually pretty sloppy so I figured I'd get the new ones to fit a bit better.  They slide into the slots with enough room I can oil them up but snugly so they don't flop around.  The originals I had to use a screwdriver to lift them up in the slots when I loosened the nuts to dismantle the carriage to clean and oil it up.  These ones I absolutely love since I don't have to do that now.

But now I am just left waiting for the tool post bolt to arrive.  I'm guessing it should arrive any day now and then I'll be back up and running.

The first pic should be the one showing the original bolt beside one of the new ones.  The second pic shows just how tight the clearance is for the wrench to tighten down the cross slide when changing angles.


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## lpeedin

Man, I would have machine you a couple of new nuts for the cost of postage.  I have the 1127VF-LB and my cross slide and compound look just like yours, but that doesn't mean they are exactly alike.  While I didn't strip out any bolts, I did make new t-bolts that were wider and would have more grab area in the slots.  This made me feel better.  

I do suggest one mod to your machine, if you are comfortable with it.  I took my tool post / compound off of the cross slide table and took everything apart to clean and lube it.  When I had it apart, I remove the lock down ring plate that holds the compound in place.  I didn't like the simple two bolt lock-down and felt it lacked much needed rigidity.  I drilled 4 more holes in the piece, out near each corner.  This provided a 4-bolt lock down which seems to be much more rigid.   Just so you know, my lock down ring plate (not sure what to call it. it is the light gray piece in your photo with the cut out to see the angle markings on the compound) actually cracked right in the middle over the cut out for the angle markings.  The design of that piece causes the part to bend significantly when it is tightened down.  You can see the bend in your photos.  I have not experienced any issue at all with the crack present and have not felt the need to change it.  However, I have been interested in machining another one out of low carbon steel instead of cast iron, like it is made out of.  I believe the steel would handle the bending stress better than the cast iron did.


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## lpeedin

Here are a few pictures of the crack in the lock down ring plate as well as the completed mod and then a pic of one of the hold down t-bolts I made.


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## BellyUpFish

Putting my deposit on the 1030 tomorrow hopefully.


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## NoobCanuk

Yeah, I never looked at that ring that closely.   I will definitely take a look tomorrow and see if mine has the same problem.   Thanks for the advice I am really tempted to try the exact same idea as you on making 4 bolt holes to hold it down as well.  I'm glad I ordered 5 bolts now (mind you 5 was the minimum order lol).

Sadly the post office here stuck it to me again.  I got an email from Matt asking if he had my correct address since my tool post bolt was returned to sender. The post office has done that to me twice now that I know of.  For some reason my address doesn't exist at my local post office some days.  But at least I know that eventually I'll get the bolt, just have to wait for the right mailman to deliver it I guess. 

And my buddy almost had a stroke when he heard what those tiny bolts cost.  $30 each plus tax.  And that was the cash price.  But the guy said they are a grade 8 bolt now so they should be plenty strong.  

The one alteration I am seriously wanting to do to my qctp though is to build a new bolt that would stick up through the top of the tool post and have a nice big nut on top of the post to hold it down.  The current design is the bolt stops inside the tool post and a hollow threaded tube with a nut on the top screws down onto the bolt inside the tool post.  I think it makes the tool post look a lot cleaner this way, but I think it is a lot weaker that way compared to a heavy bolts with a beefy nut on top of the post.  Just my opinion and I don't think it could hurt to try something different.  I should get a picture to show you what I mean, but I assume most of these qctp's are pretty much the same.


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## wrmiller

One of the cool things about having machines like this is that you can use the machine to make modifications to suit your personal preferences. Have fun.


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## BellyUpFish

Well, I should have my PM1030V in a month or so.  It's supposed to be delivered to PM in a week or so and if my new shop is finished by then, I'll take delivery shortly there after!


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## koba49

BellyUpFish said:


> Well, I should have my PM1030V in a month or so.  It's supposed to be delivered to PM in a week or so and if my new shop is finished by then, I'll take delivery shortly there after!


when did you order the lathe, I ordered a PM 1229vf in march, Mat said the shipment may in a little early like arriving last week or this week, but if they are in the same shipment it looks like his first delivery quote was right, with things getting there in a week or two.


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## BellyUpFish

koba49 said:


> when did you order the lathe, I ordered a PM 1229vf in march, Mat said the shipment may in a little early like arriving last week or this week, but if they are in the same shipment it looks like his first delivery quote was right, with things getting there in a week or two.



I ordered it back in February.  I'm building a house and told them to put me on a later shipment, he had a 1030 on the floor at the time, but was preparing to start this house and didn't want to move it.

Garage doors go on my shop tomorrow, so the timing is perfect.


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