# New Bench Vise  (tool Gloat!)



## Inflight (Apr 1, 2015)

While mowing my front lawn this week, my neighbor came out to say hi and chat a bit.  After a few minutes, he invited me back to his place because he said he had something for me. 
It was a big Wilton combination vise. Quicker than I can post this message, I ran back to my shed an grabbed a rolling cart.  Within the next couple hours, I had stripped all the old chipped paint, degreased the hardened stuff on the inside, got it primed & painted and reassembled.  

Here is the vise cleaned up. Turns out to be a 5" C2 in excellent condition and weighs close to 100lbs. Not bad for totally FREE!!!






Matt


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## kd4gij (Apr 1, 2015)

Nice score. I nead neighbors like that.  And that is a good thing.


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## Tool-in-the-Box (Apr 1, 2015)




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## Ulma Doctor (Apr 1, 2015)

Great Score!!!
you can't even touch old FUBAR Wiltons in these parts for less than $100


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## GA Gyro (Apr 2, 2015)

GREAT score... and the price was right!

Question... I have an old vise (around 65#) that was outside for an extended time before I got it.  
The screw is locked up... 
How does one free it, so they can take it apart and clean it up.

My first thought is to soak it with WD-40 (repeatedly, on a metal pan), until it loosens up.

Any other thoughts?

THX


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## Franko (Apr 2, 2015)

That's a beauty, Matt.


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## chips&more (Apr 2, 2015)

Good for you! they call that style a “Bullet Vise”. I guess because of the shape of the vise at the back end…Good Luck, Dave.


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## kvt (Apr 2, 2015)

Inglight   Great score,   Other people have all the luck.

GA Gyro:  can you get the base off, or is it also frozen up.   One thing you might do is try using heat on the areas you need to loosen, then add penetrating fluid,   I have freed up some stuff that way,  
If the bolt/screw etc is cold and you heat the nut etc it allows the fluid to work in between and start working.   Then you slowly start working it back and forth until you get it free.
or at least that has worked for me before.


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## kd4gij (Apr 2, 2015)

GA Gyro said:


> GREAT score... and the price was right!
> 
> Question... I have an old vise (around 65#) that was outside for an extended time before I got it.
> The screw is locked up...
> ...


  WD-40 won't help. use pb blaster, or a 50/50 mixture of ATF fluid and acidtone.


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## darkzero (Apr 2, 2015)

kd4gij said:


> WD-40 won't help. use pb blaster, or a 50/50 mixture of ATF fluid and acidtone.



Agreed, the only thing I use WD40 for is cleaning, that's what I use to clean my machines. Many people use it for machining aluminum but I haven't tried that yet. I use Kroil for penetrating oil, haven't found anything better. I've heard the ATF/acetone mix works well too, I've been meaning to try it.


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## Billh50 (Apr 2, 2015)

from tests that I have seen 50/50 transmission oil and acetone works better than Kroil. I haven't had anything Kroil didn't fix so I haven't tried it myself.


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## kd4gij (Apr 2, 2015)

Can't get kroil around here so I have never tryed it.


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## intrepid (Apr 2, 2015)

WOW, that's a steal of a deal!


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## darkzero (Apr 2, 2015)

kd4gij said:


> Can't get kroil around here so I have never tryed it.


I buy it directly fron Kano Labs. With their buy one get one free (or of another product) it's well worth it to me. No one sells it locally here either except for Mcmaster & the very few that sell it online are way too expensive.


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## mikey (Apr 2, 2015)

GA Gyro said:


> Question... I have an old vise (around 65#) that was outside for an extended time before I got it.
> The screw is locked up...
> How does one free it, so they can take it apart and clean it up.



What kind of vise is it? Many old vises, especially the good ones like a Parker, have a nut that is fit into a dovetail. The fit can be rather loose and the nut can cock and get jammed, especially if someone had a heavy hand. Quite often, the nut is held into the dovetail with a pin that can be driven out so you can access the nut. You might try this and take a drift and gently tap the nut and work the leadscrew - it might just break it loose. 

If it is rusted in place then penetrating oil might do it but I would just toss it in the electrolytic tank and derust it before trying to work the lead screw loose.


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## Billh50 (Apr 2, 2015)

I got mine at a heating supply store. Only place that has it around here that I could find. I know many years ago it was only carried by industrial supply places.


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## pineyfolks (Apr 2, 2015)

That's a great vise. I use mine all the time and like that they open to  about 6"


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## Cactus Farmer (Apr 2, 2015)

darkzero said:


> I buy it directly fron Kano Labs. With their buy one get one free (or of another product) it's well worth it to me. No one sells it locally here either except for Mcmaster & the very few that sell it online are way too expensive.


 
+1 on Kroil.  You order direct with some geat people. They included a small I
oil can in my order and it has a lable that says "Kroiler". I, too, have heard of the Auto tranmission fluid and acetone but I've got a 1/2 gallon of Kroil left to use first.  I can't toot the horn of this company enough! An American product that does all is says it does and more. There are people who shoot the old caliber guns with lead bullets and black powder and they say Kroil will get under the lead in a badly fouled barrel and you can just brush it out. I use my special bullet lube,rendered sheep butt fat, bee's wax and a pinch of toe of newt and eye of frog, so, I don't get leading in my shooting stick.

If I ever figure out how to post pictures, I'll send a picture or two of my old home made rifle.
It has some nice wood. I made everything except the front sight inserts and the rear sight.


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## kd4gij (Apr 2, 2015)

darkzero said:


> I buy it directly fron Kano Labs. With their buy one get one free (or of another product) it's well worth it to me. No one sells it locally here either except for Mcmaster & the very few that sell it online are way too expensive.


 

  I did fill out a form on Kano Labs websit about a year or so ago was suposed to get a free sample of kroil and 1 outher product you could choose any 2 of there products. Never got anything. PB works for most of what need if not just break out the blue wrench.


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## JimDawson (Apr 2, 2015)

Thanks Billh50. 

OK, I'm convinced.  I had a really stiff steering select valve on my big forklift.  I have sprayed the heck out of it with WD-40 and worked it with a cheater pipe every time I got on the machine.  It kinda worked, at least I could move it without the cheater with a lot of effort.  Based on the acetone ATF mix mentioned here, I just tried it.  I don't have any ATF on the shelf, but I do have some Marvel Mystery Oil.  So I mixed up a small batch.  I'm amazed, 5 minutes and it works just like new.  It really works.


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## kvt (Apr 2, 2015)

I have never used Kroil,  but have used the ATF mix, and also use the PB Blaster  and they work.   WD40, I have used for killing a few squeaks and cleaning things up, and have used it while machining some aluminum.   I always try to use some type of penetrating oil on rusty stuff.   If that does not work then I go for a little heat then more Penetrating oil.


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## Billh50 (Apr 2, 2015)

from the tests I found online for the atf/acetone mix vs others it took about 1/2 the torque to loosen rusted bolts than it did Kroil. And Kroil was rated #2 on the list. I will have to see if I can find one of those tests.


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## Billh50 (Apr 2, 2015)

here's one test
_The "test" was using a Baldwin compressometer set on 1200-pound scale 
> to determine the load required to move a "dowel pin" on 6 identical > setups._

_Oil used_________________Avg load(Lbs)to move pin______price/oz_
HomeBrew 50-50, ATF&Acetone______53___________________$0.10
_ Kano Kroil_______________________106__________________$0.75
Liquid Wrench____________________127__________________$0.21
PB Blaster_______________________214__________________$0.35 
WD-40____________________________238__________________$0.25
none_____________________________516__________________$0.00_


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## JimDawson (Apr 2, 2015)

Billh50 said:


> here's one test
> _The "test" was using a Baldwin compressometer set on 1200-pound scale
> > to determine the load required to move a "dowel pin" on 6 identical > setups._
> 
> ...




Hmmm, I wonder how ATF/Acetone would work for tapping fluid


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## darkzero (Apr 2, 2015)

Yup I've seen those same tests too. Still I prefer to use aerosol as it's more convenient for me. Even though I have plenty of containers for dispensing, refillable air sprayers, ATF, & acetone in the garage. 

AeroKroil hasn't failed me yet so I'm good. PB Blaster has failed me before but at least it's best product off the shelf around here that's readily available.

Does the acetone dry up quick in the mix? That's the only concern I had mixing up fair amount of batches.


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## Billh50 (Apr 2, 2015)

I haven't had a chance to test the mix yet. So far Kroil has worked. Although it did come close to trying once when I still had a hard time loosening a bolt. But it did come out with the Kroil. I know Kroil has worked for me when PB did not. So I have been using Kroil since.


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## GA Gyro (Apr 3, 2015)

In defense of WS-40...

A month or so ago... the 'donut' gasket on one side of the engine in my service van... started leaking... offensively loud leak.

Ran the van up on a set of ramps, crawled under it with a 1/2 impact, the nuts on the studs would NOT budge.  After some choice discussion with the nuts... LOL... got out the can of WD-40 and soaked the nuts/studs... then soaked them again in about an hour.  Then an hour later... tried again: Nuts came right off... replaced the donuts... both sides... better to use the setup and resolve the issue now, than have to do it in the middle of the summer when I am too busy to stop.


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## John Hasler (Apr 3, 2015)

GA Gyro said:


> In defense of WS-40...
> 
> A month or so ago... the 'donut' gasket on one side of the engine in my service van... started leaking... offensively loud leak.
> 
> Ran the fan up on a set of ramps, crawled under it with a 1/2 impact, the nuts on the studs would NOT budge.  After some choice discussion with the nuts... LOL... got out the can of WD-40 and soaked the nuts/studs... then soaked them again in about an hour.  Then an hour later... tried again: Nuts came right off... replaced the donuts... both sides... better to use the setup and resolve the issue now, than have to do it in the middle of the summer when I am too busy to stop.


Wd-40 isn't the magic that the marketing people would have you believe but it does work.  As far as I can tell it's just light oil in a low-viscosity solvent that carries the oil into small spaces and then evaporates.  Nothing you couldn't mix up yourself, but the spray cans are convenient.


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## GA Gyro (Apr 3, 2015)

Yeah... one can find better products... however the convenience of a spray can... or in my case a manual spray can and a gallon extra, it is convenient.  
And it does work nicely as cutting oil for AL.


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## Billh50 (Apr 3, 2015)

All these penetrants work. Just some work better than others in different circumstances. Some work under all conditions while others only work under certain conditions. Personally I found Kroil to work every time I need it too.


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## John Hasler (Apr 3, 2015)

JimDawson said:


> Hmmm, I wonder how ATF/Acetone would work for tapping fluid


Not well.  For a penetrant you want something that initially has a low viscosity so that it will seep into small spaces but which contains a solvent that will evaporate and leave the higher viscosity lubricating oil behind.  For tapping you want an extreme pressure lubricant.


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## John Hasler (Apr 3, 2015)

darkzero said:


> Yup I've seen those same tests too. Still I prefer to use aerosol as it's more convenient for me. Even though I have plenty of containers for dispensing, refillable air sprayers, ATF, & acetone in the garage.
> 
> AeroKroil hasn't failed me yet so I'm good. PB Blaster has failed me before but at least it's best product off the shelf around here that's readily available.
> 
> Does the acetone dry up quick in the mix? That's the only concern I had mixing up fair amount of batches.


I think that you would have to keep it sealed air-tight.


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## atlas ten (Apr 4, 2015)

I got a mixture not listed here. I came up with myself. Used it on  rust frozen in cylinders of a 2 cyl snowmobile engine. Equal parts atf, brake fluid and  diesel fuel.  Both brake fluid and diesel are hygroscopic and absorb remaining moisture. 
Jack


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## Firestopper (Apr 4, 2015)

Excellant!
I think Karma is on your side brother.
Nice color choice too.


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## Inflight (Apr 4, 2015)

firestopper said:


> Excellant!
> I think Karma is on your side brother.
> Nice color choice too.



Thanks!
Paint is a mix of Rust-oleum Silver hammered paint mixed with their Hunter Green. 


Matt


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## Quatroclick (Apr 4, 2015)

I am jealous.  I just spent the last hour beating an old rusty Reed vice apart.  It will need some welding and machining done before I can use it.  I might try the Rust-Oleum silver hammered when I get it finished though....  Looks great!


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## toolman_ar (Apr 17, 2015)

What brand and color paint is that you used...

I tried to find something close to the original Wilton Green, when I did mine


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