# Cutter Recommendation Please



## Subwayrocket (Jul 1, 2016)

I'm looking for a decent face mill 2" and 3"+ . Need the R8 shanks and holders too, or integrated. Not many of them have good reviews from Shars, BHS, Grizzly. I'm Looking for budget stuff that's semi decent, I dont want to wreck a high end tool while learning but I don't want to waste money on complete garbage either. Machine is a PM-940 .  Please post links if possible or part#,  Thanks much !


----------



## Ulma Doctor (Jul 2, 2016)

with a little patience and perseverance, all of the items can be purchased used from swap meets,craigslist, or Ebay- at a discount.
most of the tools nowadays seem to fit into 1 or 2 category.
High End         $$$$
Cheap Junk   

i have purchased and use both as the situation requires.
i know a few that put 3/4" straight shanks on all of their interchangeables, and keep an R8-3/4" collet in the spindle full time- for ease.
i hope the info helps out


----------



## tertiaryjim (Jul 2, 2016)

Some have made their own lathe and milling tools and suggested the best inserts to use.
Lots of posts here if you do a search.


----------



## kd4gij (Jul 3, 2016)

The fly cutter is easy to make. Cheap ones are fine also. It is the tool bit you use that does the work. 5/16 or 3/8 lathe bits. For boring head and face mill watch eBay.
If it is in your budget here is quality face mills at a reasonable price. look at the fm45's
https://www.glacern.com/fm45


----------



## Subwayrocket (Jul 3, 2016)

kd4gij said:


> The fly cutter is easy to make. Cheap ones are fine also. It is the tool bit you use that does the work. 5/16 or 3/8 lathe bits. For boring head and face mill watch eBay.
> If it is in your budget here is quality face mills at a reasonable price. look at the fm45's
> https://www.glacern.com/fm45


 Thanks , and yes that's well within the budget. I've gotten a few recommendations on the Glacern face fills. I use ebay quite a bit in other areas I have experience in, but not mill tooling and accessories. This helps, Thank you !


----------



## ExKenna (Jul 27, 2016)

These are popular and work well: http://www.latheinserts.com/3-45-DEGREE-FACEMILL-FMA02-300-A100-SE12-05.htm

Youtube video review:


----------



## Bamban (Jul 27, 2016)

What is the purpose of the wire he used when clamping the piece? Why not clamp between the 2 jaw faces?


----------



## ExKenna (Jul 27, 2016)

The wire is the ground strap. Keeps the face mill from arcing over and zapping the operator.


----------



## 4GSR (Jul 27, 2016)

I use plumber's lead instead of copper wire. Don't get zap so bad. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## 4GSR (Jul 27, 2016)

Either material keeps the material from crawling out of the vise. It also compensates for any   variations of inaccuracy in the material, too. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## TOOLMASTER (Jul 27, 2016)

not a very solid way to mount it...


----------



## Subwayrocket (Jul 28, 2016)

Thanks much !


----------



## 4GSR (Jul 28, 2016)

TOOLMASTER said:


> not a very solid way to mount it...



You would think that. I've use this method on some fairly good size chunks of steel in a 10" mill vise on a no. 5 mill.   What I do is used a couple layers of plumbers lead sheet from roof caps, put it on the movable side of the vise jaw and tighten.  The strips do not have to be the height of the jaw, just catch the upper 3/8" to 1/2" of the jaw. Of course, on the vise I had you had to use a 2 lb ball peen hammer or lead hammer to bump it down solid against the parallels.  You had to use this arrangement on any piece of material that was not parallel or square with the vise.  If you ever had an issue of the material moving in a mill vise, regardless how tight you make it, this will stop the movement.  The copper wire trick works, too.


----------

