# Headstock Alignment On Colchester



## Kroll

Guys updating all me post on all my Colchester issues so I though I would start another so that we can focus on headstock alignment.This needs to be done cause I completely took the headstock apart and to get the bed done.There are 4 bolts that hold the head down on the bed which are hard to get to with an allen wrench.Then on the end of the head stock I will need to remove the swing arm and what ever else to get to the adjustment screws.This I feel is going to be very tedious,and difficult to do.So I will need to read the manual several times,ask for some guidance along the way.Wanting get this done before summer cause its hard to do with sweat in my eyes,just plain hot in my little shop during the summer.Any youtubes,websites,articles????Getting very close,thanks guys---------------kroll


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## Holt

I for sure will be watching, it's a thing I never tried myself, but would be good to know how to do.


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## Kroll

Problems is one of the many things that makes this forum so fantastic,we all work through problems with each others help.I will take some pics and post as I go,its going to be a learning experience----kroll


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## Badge171

From my Clausing / Colchester 8000 series manual 
 Headstock alignments . insert 2" diameter steel bar in chuck. Do not support.
2. Take roughing cut. take light finishing cut over the 6" length.
3. Micrometer readings taken both ends.
4. Lathe power off, idler gear, swing frame clamp nut off.
5.Slacken 4 headstock securing screws.
6. Adjust the set over pad to pivot headstock. Small adjustments only are necessary . On your test piece if point A is chuck side, and point B is tail stock side then. As a guide ,with a dial indicator set against point B of the test piece it will be necessary to swing the headstock approximately  2  1/2 times the difference in micrometer readings between point A and point B  ( Take your readings at both ends of your test piece. Use point B for your adjustment gauge. ) 
7. Tighten the headstock securing screws swing frame, refit idler gear repeat and test cut . REPEAT AND REPEAT AND REPEAT.

Good Luck hope it helps 
Frank


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## Kroll

Thank you Frank,I was wondering how to go about lining it up.Going to print this up and put it with the lathe,but I am going to wait till it cools off alittle so that I won't sweat all over the lathe.Yes sir this info is a big help,looking forward to my first project on my new to me lathe-----kroll


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## Kroll

Dang here it is nice and cool this weekend so I start reading Franks post on how to do the  alignment see I need a piece of bar stock.Well it wont be this weekend so I'll place a small order and wait alittle longer.Guys getting excited about this and reading the all the new post here in this section


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## Kiwi

.From the uk lathe site 
 On Student and Master lathes the headstock pivots on a dowel, fitted to the back corner nearer the tailstock and can, as a consequence, be adjusted. At the left-hand end of the headstock, sitting between the bedways is a block with pointed-end Allen screws that can be used, by slackening one and tightening the other, to swing the headstock slightly. Before doing this the holding down bolts, which have a little clearance round their holes, should be slackened but not loosened completely. An accurate test bar will needed (it fits directly into the headstock spindle), together with a high-quality DTI used to assess the alignment. Alternatively, test cuts can be taken between minute amounts of adjustment with the holding-down bolts fully tightened, of course.


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## Kroll

Thanks kiwi,I do remember the block and adjustment screws.But I was  wondering how to handle the 4 bolts that holds down the headstock which are not easy to get to,but now I know thank you for passing on that information.I'm just afew days away from starting back on my lathe and want to get the headstock aligned.


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## malmac

This is the page out of a current Triumph 2000 manual - thought the diagrams might be helpful.

Cheers


Mal


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## mcostello

I am getting to do the same on My 8000 series Colchester. The adjustments do not seem to help at all. Where ever I move the headstock to, the mismeasurement seems to follow. I cannot seem to make it better, just move it around. Suspect a bearing problem, end play is taken up with more threads left, spindle doe not tighten up any more. Bearing never gets warm, I can push the same piece of steel .001-.002 with My bare hand. No way should I be able to do that, not a gorilla.


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## malmac

I am certainly not experienced with that situation - but I agree it does not sound good.


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## Kroll

Thanks Mal that does help me,I had to kinda pull off the alignment cause I had to make repairs to my Tee nut for the QCTP.Which I ask for some help and receive lots of ideals and people willing to make me a new one.
So maybe this weekend I will install the post and make couple trial cuts-----kroll
BeepBeep I have heard that bearings for these lathes are very expensive


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## Kroll

Good afternoon guys,well I made some progress checking my headstock alignment.My first problem is my cheap calipers only go .001 so reading directions I need something that will read .0001 I proceeded anyway just for see how close I am.Another thing that I learned alittle was rpms.I started out at 350 rpm turn the OD then check but the finish was kinda rough.So I increase to the next setting which was 475 rpm made the cut but no cigar on the finish,check the OD and both ends are the same.Repeat,repeat,repeat then I got to 900 rpm which having a piece of steel stick out 8-10" was making me alittle nervous but the finish was alot better.And the OD was the same(3 digits .001) at both ends so I don't have much faith in me being lucky so I don't know what I did wrong.And if I may pass this additional info on to the newbies is don't wear a white tee shirt when turning HA.Guys here's a pic of the piece so please comment let me know what you see wrong so that I can learn and correct whats wrong.Getting excited----kroll--- Well guys I made another pass which made a good cleaner cut,so proud of my first piece for the first time on my lathe.But I also found that it turned a taper,the chuck end is about .004 larger than the end towards the tail stock.So I think I am going to kinda take things apart and make an adjustment.


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## Kroll

Well guys today was a very good day finishing up on the alighnment.It took me several hrs today just to get it adjusted .004 to where it was the same at both ends.I would make a slight adjustment,but the lathe back together then turn the OD and check.Did that about 3 times then I over shot it had to start adjusting the other way *RATS*.You know just turning the adjustment screws very little made a difference of few thous.Guys I am going to call this part of the project a success,very happy with the results.But I did discover that I have alittle oil leak so I will need to try and fix that with some softer gasket material but that's another story.Thanks for following along----kroll


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## JR49

Kroll said:


> And the OD was the same(3 digits .001) at both ends so I don't have much faith in me being lucky so I don't know what I did wrong.



     Kroll,  looking at the pic of your chucked round bar makes me doubt your test results also.  It looks to me that you have the bar  held by only a small portion of the jaws.  Why wouldn't you use the entire length of the jaws for a much stronger hold ? Between the short hold with the jaws on what looks like a good sized bar (what is the dia.?) plus the shims you used to protect it from the jaws, I think that combination makes for a weak grip on the bar, and the possibility that the bar could shift.  HOWEVER, please keep in mind Kroll, that like you, I am a novice at all this also, but this post will bring your thread up to the front page so maybe one of the experienced members will see it and tell me I'm wrong.  One other thing,  I'm saying this based on your pic, and my old eyes.  If you did in fact have the bar up tight against the face of the chuck, for full jaw grip, then forget everything I've said.  Happy Thanksgiving,  JR49


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## Kroll

Thanks for your input JR,no need for any type of forgiveness that is what I am wanting to hear.You are right the bar is kinda proud of the base of these jaws which I am ordering another set of soft jaws.Reason for not being flush with the bottom the previous owner turned the inside of the jaws for two different sizes of OD's I guess,the bar here is 2.5 dia.The bar is on the bottom lip of the jaws,I also question if the bar was supported enough but I have to say it turned nicely.No shims were use,me not know how much to take off with each pass I just took .005 with each pass so not pushing my luck.JR thanks for your input.----kroll


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## qjaybird

Badge171 said:


> From my Clausing / Colchester 8000 series manual
> Headstock alignments . insert 2" diameter steel bar in chuck. Do not support.
> 2. Take roughing cut. take light finishing cut over the 6" length.
> 3. Micrometer readings taken both ends.
> 4. Lathe power off, idler gear, swing frame clamp nut off.
> 5.Slacken 4 headstock securing screws.
> 6. Adjust the set over pad to pivot headstock. Small adjustments only are necessary . On your test piece if point A is chuck side, and point B is tail stock side then. As a guide ,with a dial indicator set against point B of the test piece it will be necessary to swing the headstock approximately  2  1/2 times the difference in micrometer readings between point A and point B  ( Take your readings at both ends of your test piece. Use point B for your adjustment gauge. )
> 7. Tighten the headstock securing screws swing frame, refit idler gear repeat and test cut . REPEAT AND REPEAT AND REPEAT.
> 
> Good Luck hope it helps
> Frank


Trying the same thing on my nephew's 600 series and can turn straight but facing is out .012. Any suggestions?


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## cascao

It's good practice to check bed twist first to avoid interference in headstock alignment.
There the Rollie's dad's method to check headstock alignment. It is good because you can fix headstock vertically too.


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## Richard King 2

There are several ways to do it.  They all work.  This is the way I have been doing it and teach my classes to do it.


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