# BXA tool holder with <5/8" HSS bits.



## 6literZ (Dec 30, 2014)

I recently ordered a lathe, I am now looking for tooling. 

Carbide seems nice with the indexable tool holders typically holding the inserts at the specific angle for the type of cut. 
(Such as these in a set http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...IGQAw&tbm=isch&client=safari&ved=0CB4QMygBMAE
)

My question is how do you do the same thing with HSS bits, without using any additional type of holder, especially with anything less than 5/8 HSS. I want to use less than 5/8 for ease of grinding because I'm just learning.  It seems like the quick change tool post would be really close to the chuck with any size HSS bit in the tool holder. 

Ive read books on lathe tooling, they're just outdated and use the lantern style holder.


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## dave2176 (Dec 30, 2014)

You can easily fit smaller bits in those quick change holders. Get yourself a bunch of extra holders so you don't have to readjust when you want to change a bit out. Just pop its dedicated holder on the tool post and press on.

Dave


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## 18w (Dec 30, 2014)

With quick change holders you are free to use smaller size bits like1/4, 3/8,and 1/2 ect. you just tighten the allen set screws down on top of the tool bit. Most everyone does that. There are a million opinions on HSS and insert tooling. Suggest you use the search function and look up insert tooling and HSS tooling. Make sure you have your favorite beverage and lots of time.:lmao:  Regarding the closeness of the tool holder to the chuck...yes that can be troublesome and that is where larger, ie., stiffer tools are helpful as you can angle and stick them out further from the holder. What kind of lathe are you getting? That also enters in to the equation.

Cheers
Darrell


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## 6literZ (Dec 30, 2014)

I ordered the grizzly g4003g 12x36 lathe.


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## Wreck™Wreck (Dec 30, 2014)

Set a carriage stop so that you can't hit the chuck, even if you try.


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## Karl_T (Dec 31, 2014)

If you own a mill, i suggest making your own toolholders. Make a batch of a dozen or even more. Its REALLY HANDY to have all the tools you'll ever need all set to go.

Karl


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## 6literZ (Jan 1, 2015)

I'd like to thank everyone for their input. I haven't physically held any of the tooling like the BXA tool holder or HSS blanks (in a while) and wanted to make sure everything would work together. I believe now I have a better understanding of the tooling and what I should expect. 

I also found a neat write up during my search for internal threading tools that Id like to share. I was a bit stuck on finding a decent tool for internal threads on small diameters such as 1/2"ID and wanted to steer clear of carbides due to the lack of speeds available on a hobby machine. HSS boring bars seemed doable, but alas I stumbled upon a nifty tool idea made from using tool steel (drill rod blank) and using a lathe to complete your own cutting tool. How awesome!

http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=3523.0


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## Round in circles (Jan 1, 2015)

6literZ said:


> I'd like to thank everyone for their input. I haven't physically held any of the tooling like the BXA tool holder or HSS blanks (in a while) and wanted to make sure everything would work together. I believe now I have a better understanding of the tooling and what I should expect.
> 
> I also found a neat write up during my search for internal threading tools that Id like to share. I was a bit stuck on finding a decent tool for internal threads on small diameters such as 1/2"ID and wanted to steer clear of carbides due to the lack of speeds available on a hobby machine. HSS boring bars seemed doable, but alas I stumbled upon a nifty tool idea made from using tool steel (drill rod blank) and using a lathe to complete your own cutting tool. How awesome!
> 
> http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=3523.0



I like this thread especially the madmodder link .
 I've read it through and wonder if you can use square bar high carbon steel to turn it to form four cutting faces at the same angle on just on bar and then step back the bar to make the waisted shank,  harden & temper it in an engineering manner 

Could you use a simple case hardened mild steel , on a finished turned up / milled cutter form , as the hardening penetrates to about 3 thou if done correctly  ??? 
My reason for saying this is that mild steel is cheap, machines easily and is usually available , even in the big box DIY stores in 1/4 ", 1/2 " & 3/4 " sizes 


This square bar idea would enable use of the cutter in the vast majority of tool posts , if you wanted to run long internal threads make a simple extension bar by end drilling a bigger square bar ( mild steel  even )  so the cutter's square  shank will fit then tap a couple of securing grub screws in on one face . 

Once you get over a certain size  just use a long square medium steel bar & end drill one end so you can thread the end bore and fit a quality grub or machine screw . Run a round through hole at an 90 degrees angle make two machine grub screw holes ( at the end bored end ) to take a size of square tool steel bar so that you can insert and clamp  in place your own home  ground cutting tip.  No need to take much of the corners at all .
Grind your tip and check it is at the right angle when fitted in the bar for these bigger threads /groves .


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## dave2176 (Jan 1, 2015)

For internal threading I use left hand carbide tools and start inside at the end of the thread. You can use higher speeds that way with carbide by threading out instead of in. This one from Grizzly does well for larger threads http://www.grizzly.com/products/Internal-Threading-Boring-Bar-5-8-Shank-Left-hand/H8300. 16ER AG60 inserts have a very wide range. Something like 8-32 tpi. I bought smaller ones on Ebay that were Carmex brand. Very nice. Shars and Ebay are good places to by the inserts.

Dave


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## epanzella (Jan 1, 2015)

6literZ said:


> I ordered the grizzly g4003g 12x36 lathe.



Ooooh, you gonna be a happy man. Luv mine. Don't worry about tool clearance. First off, you can grind the HSS to any angle you want. Secondly, there are two working faces to the piston type QCTP that comes with the G4003G and they're 90 degrees from each other. When you combine that with the fact that the whole tool post swivels 360 degrees there are so many combinations that you can always get it to work. Interference with the live center and tailstock is more common than headstock interference but still can be worked around easily. I use 5/16 and 3/8 bits. The 5/16 are easier to grind while the 3/8 are more ridged if the job requires more tool stickout. I get my tool holders from CDCO for $10 each (the ones with the groove). You can never have too many. Good luck.


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