# VFD Setup Question



## TomKro (Jan 11, 2014)

Does anyone have experience setting up a TECO JNEV-101-H1 motor drive with a power feed equipped with a GFI?  

I presently have a Leeson ¾ HP, 200V, 3 phase motor that I’dlike to use to power a Logan 200 lathe. I just realized that the correct 115V input TECO drive requires a 20 amp service.   The TECO on-line brochure indicates these drives don’t like GFI feeds.  

 I happen to have a GFI protected 115V, 20A circuit really close, but concerned the setup changes required to get the motor drive functioning without tripping the breaker might be difficult.  The distributor indicated that certain things can be done to avoid problems, such as changing the carrier frequency, changing the motor/drive grounding, or use of V/Hz mode instead of sensorless vector mode. 

  I know just enough about these drives to be dangerous (and messing around with grounding appears to be heading in that direction), so if anyone has experience with any of these setup adjustments, it would be a big help.      

  The motor drive has not yet been ordered.  If needed, I can install a 20 amp outlet on the main breaker panel, and just use an extension cord untilI get things re-arranged in the basement.   If the setup isn’t overly complex, and if it functions without causing performance troubles, I’d prefer to use the GFI outlet.  

Thanks in advance.  
TomKro


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## John Hasler (Jan 11, 2014)

TomKro said:


> Does anyone have experience setting up a TECO JNEV-101-H1 motor drive with a power feed equipped with a GFI?
> 
> I presently have a Leeson ¾ HP, 200V, 3 phase motor that I’dlike to use to power a Logan 200 lathe. I just realized that the correct 115V input TECO drive requires a 20 amp service.   The TECO on-line brochure indicates these drives don’t like GFI feeds.
> 
> ...



Can't you just pull the GFI breaker and plug in a normal one?  It's going to be hard to get a GFI to tolerate a VFD and GFIs are mostly useless anyway.


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## TomKro (Jan 11, 2014)

John: 

 The GFI happens to be on a 20 amp circuit that feeds an outlet in the garage, another in the basement and a third outlet under the deck, so I'd prefer to keep the GFCI in place.  Hopefully, I'll be re-arranging the power in the next 6 months or so, and I'll have a new feed once I get a new sub-panel in place. 

  I was about to place the order for the motor drive, and figured I'd have a warmer-fuzzier feeling about the purchase if I didn't have to install a new breaker and use a long extension cord.  

Thanks, TomKro


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## rdhem2 (Jan 11, 2014)

If you indeed have a GFI breaker you are pretty much dead in the water.  Of course you could temporarily replace the breaker.  Putting it back when you do your wire upgrade.  GFI receptacles are cheap.  Take out the breaker and install a recp.

If you have a GFI receptacle you can rewire the outlet to bypass the GFI function.  The back of the outlet shows how to reconnect to bypass or else move the recp downstream.  Layout a map of the circuit.  See if you can go from panel to lathe to GFI just by moving things around.

With a buddy to help you can walk the circuit while he flips the breaker on/off so you don't get knocked on your pa-tu-tee.  Remove one of the receps in the circuit and see what is still hot and what is not.  The outside one under the deck is the only one I would worry about.  Indoor ones wired that way because they are considered to be non habitable spaces by code.  If you finish the basement you don't need the GFI's anymore.


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## TomKro (Jan 11, 2014)

Russ - 

  The GFCI wiring is set up with a single circuit breaker.  As I recall, that 20 amp breaker was really pricey.  

  I was under the impression that switching to V/Hz mode could alleviate the problem, but then I'd probably have to determine a whole lot of settings which I really don't know.  I heard that V/Hz mode was tougher on the motor, but wasn't sure if that was only at peak torque or really low speed.  I figured if someone had already played around with it, the changes might go easier.  I couldn't see pestering the vendor for settings info for such a small order. 

  Maybe I'll just go hunt for a breaker and use one of those big #10 extension cords until I get the wiring straightened out.    

Thanks, TomKro


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## Stanshire (Jan 11, 2014)

A while back, on the MEM forum, one of the members had no end to his VFD problems until he traced it to a GFI. New circuit installed. Problems disappeared. He is an EE and tried many things, including V/Hz mode, with no success.


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## TomKro (Jan 11, 2014)

Stanshire:  That's good info to know.  I'll probably save a lot of time with a normal breaker.

  Years ago I was working on a bridge crane installation job that travelled over a big magnetic particle machine.  It had a lot of problems.  
It took a while to figure out that the machine below the crane kept wiping out the memory in the motor drive.  Those things can be touchy.  

Thanks, TomKro.


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## Pmedic828 (Jan 11, 2014)

I don't have an opinion of the GFI for your VFD, but if you go to youtube.com and search for tubalcain or mrpete222.  Put in Machine Shop Tips # and the #'s you need to search for are #138, 139, and 140.  These are brand new videos on setting up a TECO VFD.  Hope this helps!


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## Wireaddict (Jan 12, 2014)

I see 2 options: the best one was already mentioned, run a dedicated non-GFCI 20A circuit to your TECO drive if you have a spare space in your panel & a decent path to run romex, MC cable or conduit between the two.  The other choice is to replace the GFCI breaker with a non-GFCI type & replace the outlet in your basement with a GFCI type & run romex from it to the outlet under your deck & connect the GFCI outlet so that a ground fault either place will trip the basement outlet but won't be affected by the TECO drive power transients.










fci ntype


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## TomKro (Jan 12, 2014)

Wireaddict:  Your suggestion for the re-wiring sure makes sense, but I sort of like the GFCI in the garage because I periodically run extension cords out into the driveway.   I checked downstairs, and I have one slot left in a small subpanel about 20 feet closer.  For the short term, I think I'll add a twist lock receptacle over there, and it will marry up with the big extension cord I use for the emergency generator.  I still have to frame a wall and get a lot of wiring done before I can rearrange things downstairs for the permanent setup.  

Pmedic828:  Those videos were really helpful.  I especially liked the 3rd one which covered the settings.  Setup looks quite easy.  Thanks.   

I still haven't placed the order for the drive yet, as I have a few more issues to resolve: 

a.  Presently, I'm only guessing that the motor is OK.  I was told it came off a lathe, but I haven't ever personally seen a motor nameplate listed as 200 volt, 3 phase.  I've only seen 208 or 208/230 or 240V.   I'm just wondering if there's anything I should be watching out for?

b.  I need to start hunting down a 24 volt mechanically latching switch to use as a secondary stop button.  I not using any magnetic contactors, so it really wouldn't be an e-stop.  From the manual, it looks like dropping out the 24V control will do the trick (when feeding a drum switch for fwd/rev control).  I'm thinking the drum switch on the left side would be good if I get my right hand in trouble, but I'd like a switch on the right side of the machine if I get my left hand in trouble.  I'm guessing coast to stop would be the safest setting without a true e-stop, as I'd sure hate to hang around (wrap around?) for a slow powered ramp to stop if, in the event of a problem.  I still have all 10 fingers, and I hope to keep it that way.  

Many thanks to all for the suggestions. 

TomKro


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