# 32x40 H -- Gas Engine



## BRIAN

I am getting the itch to build another engine, so I have done a doodle of a possible candidate.
A gas engine.



32x40 mm Iron head and bore, fabricated steel crank case, 32cc, water cooled barrel, air cooled head. twin flywheels, splash lube,
Looks like it may be a possibility.
 Brian.


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## BRIAN

*Re: 32x40 H*

A bit more doodleing and we have the section through the head looking like it will work??




Onward and upward. 
Brian.


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## BRIAN

*Re: 32x40 H gass engine*

That's the doodles done now to look for 60x60 iron bar.




Brian.


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## Bill Gruby

*Re: 32x40 H*

I'm here waiting Brian.

 "Billy G"


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## BRIAN

Have orderd material for the barrel --head--liner and piston, now waiting on the postman. the first working drawing for the Barrel is done. This Q Cad is Good.
Brian


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## BRIAN

The lumps of iron have arrived, so it's time to start making CHIPS

Brian.



OOps 2 for the price of one.


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## Rbeckett

Brian,
Your builds are magnificent and I am seriously looking forward to seeing this one, since I was an industrial engine tech in one or more of my past occupations. Are you planning to use a water pump or heat siphon like my small diesel tractor.  It has no water pump but relies on the difference in the heat to move the hotter water to the radiator.  That would save you considerable time and head aches  unless you absolutely must have all the extra goodies like a pump, belt, and radiator.  Please keep you progress coming!!!!

Bob


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## BRIAN

Hi Bob
 This engine will work with a thermo siphon system but I am intending to make a plunger pump driven by a eccentric on the end of the camshaft. I will draw up both systems for the plans / instruction manual, when the time comes.
At the moment I am truing up the stock on the mill, photos to follow.
Brian.


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## BRIAN

Now the chips are flying. 
I don't have a reliable mill vice so I am using my dividing head as a angle block to provide a vertical surface and 3-2-1 blocks to keep things square. this also helps to keep the mill head nearer the table improving the rigidity of the machine.
First job was to square up the material for the cylinder head.





Then mill out the lower part of the head, ready for the serious work later





Then I set up the material for the liner and piston in the lathe, for similar treatment. at the moment I have kept the the piston blank attached, thinking that i may use the liner material as the chucking piece.
the other option is to mount the piston blank on a spigot to do the outside, then remove the spigot, and do the inside,???








We have visitors arriving tomorrow so work will be on hold for a few days.
Now I have to dig out the lathe from all those chip's.

Brian.


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## BRIAN

Back on the engine again, mounted the piston blank on a mandrel, and roughed out the liner.




Then started work on the barrel blank and soon found that what I thought was mill scale was something more serious. It looks as though the casting process has been stopped and restarted, causing a flaw that may run right through the bar. the supplier was contacted an a new piece is in the post with profuse apologies.




So while I wait I have done the diagram for the valve timing.




Now to set about ordering the 10mm alloy plate for the crank case.

Its all go you know.

Brian.


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## BRIAN

The replacement material arrived yesterday, so today I have been up to my ankles in chips.
Ain't life just great, when you are having fun.
Brian.


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## Rapscallion

Looks interesting Brian.

I'll ogle your website too when time permits.
I think it's just wonderful that you share some of your knowledge the way are doing.

:thanks:


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## BRIAN

Hi Rapscallion.
Thanks for your comments.
Feel free to download any of the PDFs on my site, if you need clarification on anything, Just ask, either on this forum or on my site.
Brian.


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## BRIAN

Latest pic, The barrel is coming along nicely next job is to machine the recess for the liner flange.




Plodding on Brian.


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## BRIAN

The liner recess put in.




Then the water jacket space bored out, and a little more milling on the rocker support.




That's all for today Folks

Brian.


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## BRIAN

The OD of the liner was then machined to size.



And fitted in the barrel,



The front plate was bored and marked out using the odd jaw calipers then punched and the marks enlarged. prior to drilling and tapping.




The assembled front plate.




I have to make a space for a "o" ring between the barrel and the front plate to seal the liner. I am undecided whether to machine a square recess or just put a 45° edge on the barrel as some motor cycles have on the case to barrel joint. suggestions anyone??

Brian


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## 12bolts

Nice work Brian.
re the o ring, are you referring to sealing a wet liner. I think with the low pressure in your cooling system a positive pressure on the o ring via a 45* chamfer would help seal it better.

Cheers Phil


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## BRIAN

HI Phil
 Yes The "o" ring is the seal between the Barrel and both the liner and the plate it stops water escaping from the cooling system and oil from the crank case. the top of the liner is sealed by a paper gasket under the top flange. I will order the ring And fit it by trial and hopefully no error. the 45° chamfer as you say has a positive inward pressure.
 Thanks. Brian.


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## BRIAN

Transfer drilled the head and barrel, now I have the threads in the barrel I can locate the liner without the head and finish bore it on the mill. Just waiting for the "o" ring that will fix the liner in place.





Brian.


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## BRIAN

The next operation was to cut the bevel at the base of the cylinder to take a temporary "o" ring. so I can assemble the cylinder assembly .





The assembly was then mounted on the mill for boring to its final size.
I was only able to take small cuts due to the tool flexing, necessitating many cuts at the same setting to work out the taper. Boy am I glad I converted the Z to power feed.








Having now got the liner to size,the piston blank O.D. was turned then lapped to fit the liner.
Must remember to order the rings.







Now I have to get the tooling together to machine the head, the Valve guide --seat--port--assembly port,and its thread, all have to be machined at one setting, so once started it's no going back.

For now I will continue with the parts of the crank case.

Brian.


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## jumps4

Really nice work Brian
can I ask who you purchased your cast iron from and how much it was?  Is there a type that is the best for a sleeve and rings and the types your using? I have been considering doing a gas engine next. 
steve


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## BRIAN

Hi Steve.
The iron I am using for this project is known as Meehanite it has excellent strength and stability. and in bar form is continuously cast keeping it free from gas bubbles and hard spots. it is also used to cast things like brake drums that have to be stable under harsh conditions. 

The company that I got mine from is  South West Steam Miniature Engineering   They advertise on E Bay. so you can see the price per inch. but remember the company is in England so post is a very big consideration, the post to Sicily was almost the same as the cost of the metal.

I understand that Durabar in the USA is a good grade of iron and easy to work.

My only other comment is that its dirty,Black dust everywhere and almost impossible to get clean after. 
 I will be glad when I have finished the iron parts. A workshop Vac is a must, I use a vac that was made to clean stove grates so it tolerates the odd hot chip in it's metal lined tube.

 Best Regards Brian.
I forgot, the rings I am using are from a weed cutter or chain saw also advertised on E Bay.


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## jumps4

thank you for your reply
I didn't notice you were located in Sicily...    
I have seen a lot of nice model engine stuff from England but the post has kept me from ordering.
steve


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## Rapscallion

It's looking real good Brian. Very interesting.


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## BRIAN

As its the sailing season the shop takes a back seat until the madness goes away.
But I do get a little done when I am at home At the last count I had a small pile of parts including the base and side plate blanks.


 So having a little spare time I pushed on with the side plates.

The pair of plates where squared up on the mill and using my newly acquired wiggler the point for the main bearings was found and a pilot hole drilled.



 The hole was then opened out to take the main bearings.


Great care on the last cuts.but I now have a matched pair of side plates.

Brian.


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## BRIAN

Now if we stack the pile differently it looks as though one day it possibly may make a engine??




 Onward and upward.
Brian




.


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## Harv

Very nice Brian, great thread.


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## BRIAN

Having returned from the boat for a few days the lure of the shop was just to great, so iv'e done a little on the head --drilling the guides --valve ports -- and assembly ports, all having to be concentric with each other.




Then the combustion chamber was roughed out, ready for some very careful milling.









Slowly  slowly..

Brian.


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## woowoo

Absolutely fascinating and a great inspiration!  Thanks for sharing!
Mark


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## BRIAN

With all the main milling jobs done, I now have to make a valve seat cutter to cut the seats.
I am going to have to think about this one, so I will continue with other parts until I find the answer.




Brian.


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## BRIAN

In preparation for cutting the valve seats it is necessary to spot face the area to remove the radius at the top corner of the combustion chamber and provide flat face for the seat to be cut.
As I do not have a long series end mill of this size. I made a tool to do the job by turning down a piece of bar to fit the bore of the port that allows the valves to be fitted / removed, then cut down a dremmel cutting disk to the size required and fitted it to the end of this arbor.




Gentle use of the mill gave good results.  

On to the next problem.   Brian


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## BRIAN

As the spot facing was a success I thought a similar approach for the valve seats was worth a try, so I made another holder and fitted a 90 degree countersink in the end and ground off the tips of the cutter.




the result was a fine 1mm wide valve seat,




not very clear in the photo .

Brian


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## BRIAN

Returning to the barrel, the next job is to finish the rocker arm supports, so it's back to the mill to cut the support's in line with the valve guides.




Then mount the job in my poor old angle vice and set the angle for the sides.




side #2 




Barrel and head assembly.





 Slowly slowly.

Brian


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## BRIAN

The next job of assembling the crank case was one I had been worrying about, it involves drilling 44 holes for the screws and they all have to line up, No room for error!!!
After think in about this for a long while I finally decided to to trust the I Gauges on the mill and do it all by finding the edge and using the
 X Y coordinates from the drawing.
It felt very strange Drilling holes without marking out?
The first part was the base plate.





Then the sides.





Assembly of the first parts,




Checking the alignment of the cylinder to crank case,




It all fitted perfectly, this has given me great faith in the I Gauges. 


Brian


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## BRIAN

A little more work on the cylinder head.




Nearly time to order more material.

Brian.


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## BRIAN

While waiting for material I decided to have a go at the water pump, originally the idea was to make a plunger pump operated by a eccentric on the camshaft but I have changed in favor of a Archimedes screw pump fitted under the cylinder, belt driven from the camshaft 1-1 ratio.




Cutting the 2mm pitch thread.




Drilling the housing




The parts so far.

Slowly Slowly.

Brian.


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## Torbo

This is realy impressive!


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## BRIAN

Thanks Torbo  there is a long way to go yet.

Brian.


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## BRIAN

I have acquired some stainless steel that just may be suitable for the valves.
so I have made one to see if it looks OK.




Parting off the embryo valve.




after tidying up it looks good




It fits well Just needs to be bought to length when i have the rockers and cam  made,

Now I have to make the other one.   

Brian.


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## BRIAN

Now I have the valves in place the and the holes for the base plug are no longer needed as a guide. They can get the threads cut to take the 
base plugs. and spot face to locate the washers.




Next job is to make the plugs. so I am in the process of hacking down a scrap stainless shaft to use.

This is making the 7x12 work for it's living.




Then it will be screwcutting the thread, and milling the Hex. 

Onwards and Upwards.   Brian.


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## BRIAN

Single pointing the thread 1/2" x 16 TPI. for a close fit.




Next the Hex.

brian


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## BRIAN

Got it done at last

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Now for the other one

Brian


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## BRIAN

The time has come to sort out the drawing for the crankshaft and turn the doodle of the general arrangement into a working set of drawings, also the order of work to be able to assemble it.



It looks like it may fit!!

The crank is below the cylinder center line on this engine to give better torque, smoother slow running, less piston slap,
etc. offsetting the crank gives a greater rotational effort, the crank moves over the normal 180° on the power and inlet stroke's  in consequence the exhaust and compression strokes have less angular crank rotation.   
This is known as Desax . It is also used in 2 stroke engines to vary the port timing, offsetting the piston pin is also done for the same reason.

Brian.


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## BRIAN

While i ponder the problem of fixing the flywheels, I am pushing on with the connecting rod.
 First a blank of the correct width but over length was cut, then fitted on the mill to drill the holes for the big end screws.




this was then cut off to make the end cap.




The cap blank was then trimmed to the correct length and the surface of the rod blank trimmed.




The thread's were cut 4mm and the two parts reunited, then mounted on the mill, and the edge finder used to locate the center of the hole for the big end bearing.




Using  the slot drills in 4 stages the hole was opened out to 16mm. BUT when I measured the hole it was 15.5  Crap new Chinky slot drill *****x? 





Luckily I had not moved  the X Y so I changed to the boring head to finish the hole to size. 








Now I have to change the set up to do the remaining operations. another lesson learnt.

Brian


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## Micke S

Impressive and inspiring work, thanks Brian for sharing :thumbsup2:


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## BRIAN

Thanks Micke it's nice to know someone is enjoying my work.

Brian.


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## BRIAN

Getting further on with the con rod after drilling the small end The rotary table was set up with a pin to locate the small end and the radius milled.




After altering the set up the shoulders of the big end were shaped by first milling out the area then using the boring head to get to the final size.




Having got the two ends done the sides can be taken to size.





Now it just needs a clean up and the bronze big end bush made.




Will soon have to order more material, but I am trying to get all I require in one go to limit postage costs.

Brian.


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## 12bolts

BRIAN said:


> Thanks Micke it's nice to know someone is enjoying my work.
> 
> Brian.



Oh theres more than 1 enjoying your work Brian...........
I am very impressed with this!

cheers Phil


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## jumps4

I have been following along since the start
nice work.
steve


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## BRIAN

When I cut the material for the rod I had a small piece left over Just right for the intermediate gear, so I made a gear cutter and dashed off a quick gear. it seems to mate with the lathe gears ok so we will see when I make the other two.




So that's another job to do.

Brian.


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## BRIAN

So off we go again --cut the blank--put on mill -- cut the teeth-- 60 this time.




To prove the gear I used my Depthing tool that is used for setting clock gears, and the pair ran perfectly.
the camshaft gear will be crossed out with 5 spokes at a later date. 
so now I only have the crankshaft gear to make.




The home made cutter seems to work just fine.

Brian.


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## BRIAN

And this is it

 .
	

		
			
		

		
	





Now we have a full set! not bad for a home made cutter that cost about 5 c and took 1 hr to make.




Brian.


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## JimDawson

Very impressive, looks like a good fit up.  I've never tried making gears, I've always have been fascinated by the process.


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## catoctin

Hey Brian,
Very cool work.  I am real new to using a mill and very interested in how things get done.  Your milling of the rocker arm supports on the angle vice peaked my interest.  How did you round the tops?  I guessed you moved the mill over the center line and rolled the vice to 90 degrees.

Thanks,
-Joe


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## BRIAN

Hi Joe 
I am afraid my solution was very low tech. I rounded the tops on my 1" belt sander by hand  Quick and easy solution.

Brian.


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## catoctin

Thanks Brain
-Joe


BRIAN said:


> Hi Joe
> I am afraid my solution was very low tech. I rounded the tops on my 1" belt sander by hand  Quick and easy solution.
> 
> Brian.


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## BRIAN

I have placed the order for the remaining materials for the crank ETC and await delivery, this can be quite a time in Sicily.

So I am pushing on with cam shaft. the design was originally to have bronze rockers with a flat follower on the cam, but I can foresee problems with the inertia of these reatively large rockers against light valve springs so yet another design change is in order. 
The rockers are now alloy with roller followers, but this means I must change the cam profile because the flat follower initially lifts at its tip. but the roller lifts from the base circle, sacrificing a few degrees, it also take longer to close the valve clearance.
To try and put some figures to these problems I cut a test cam to a profile that seemed right then built a test rig to test the lift angle with a roller so I am now able to correct the profile.





Coming together slowly

Brian.


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## BRIAN

Just 3° on the angle and 2mm on the roller diameter and I have the figures I want.

NOW what next needs fiddling with.

Brian.


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## Punisher 67

Just chiming in - Very nice tidy work.


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## BRIAN

Next little job was to make the wheel that will take the magnet to pulse the ignition. it matches the timing gear for the camshaft but without teeth, and fits at the opposite end of the cam.




Milling out the crossing.






Now I have to do the crossing out on the cam gear to match.

Slowly slowly.

Brian.


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## BRIAN

Just had to get the cam wheel crossed out to make the set complete. Later I will file the spokes oval to give a more vintage look.




Now what's next?

Brian


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## BRIAN

Hooray Hooray, it arrived today. 
The Material I have been waiting for, Now I can get on with crank E T C.
all I need now is shop time.


Brian


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## BRIAN

Started turning down the stock to workable blanks.




Then I will clean the lathe so I can see what I am doing.??





Slowly Slowly.


Brian.


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## Micke S

Thank you for sharing, I get many good tips from this.


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## Dranreb

Don't know how I missed this thread, excellent work and write up Brian, I've learned a lot...:thumbzup:


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## BRIAN

OK  so now we have the two blanks for the webs of the crank, the next job was to Loctite them together, return to the lathe and skim the surface then drill a hole in the centre.





Now transfer them to the mill and bore the centre to size.




All looks ok.




 Now you just may be wondering why I did not do that while I had them in the lathe, well now I just have to move the table 20mm towards me and bore the hole for the crank pin. all done and no marking out.
That's a job for tomorrow.

Brian


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## BRIAN

To continue.
Using the DRO I now moved the table rearwards 20mm and changed the boring head for a chuck. and used the centre drill to mark the position of the crank pin.




Then drilled out 1mm smaller than the size required, changed back to the boring head and opened out the hole.




all looks OK so on to the Main shaft tomorrow.




Keep looking, don't forget you are allowed to ask questions???

Brian.


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## BRIAN

Now as it is essential to keep all the machining of the main shaft concentric, the job is being done between centres. this allows the work to be removed for measuring or turned end for end without loosing the concentricity.

First end being turned




Turn it over to machine the other end.




The shaft is now .25mm oversize on all dimensions, so after cleaning the lathe, so I can see what I am doing I will bring it to its final size, apart from the location for the fly wheels I have not yet made up my mind as to how I am going to fix them yet.




Brian.


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## BRIAN

A little further on, the Journals for the main bearings and fittings for the crank webs are to size.




Slowly Slowly.   Brian.


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## BRIAN

Well it all fits together,  Just the location for the flywheels and screw thread the ends 1/2-20.
then it will have to wait until the bronze bearing is made for the big end so I can balance the assembly prior to final assembly.




Brian.


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## BRIAN

I decided to continue with the flywheels so I can ensure that all is OK before screw cutting the main shaft.

The first problem was to get the 5" diameter blank onto the lathe. no way will any of my chucks take that diameter???

So we drill a hole in the centre and mount it on the rotary table and mill a recess that will fit on the little 4 jaw with the outside jaws locating on the inner edge.







Yep  Now we are really making Chips.





Brian.


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## BRIAN

Now it's on to the rotary table to Mill out the spokes . first dill out the corner holes then it's a game of join the dots.




After reducing the 2.7 kg blank to a mere .77 kg we have a fly wheel,





Then a quick shuffle of the parts to get a quick idea what it may look like?





Now I need another for the other side.


Plod, Plod,  

Brian.


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## BRIAN

Pushing on,  the second flywheel is finished as I did not include any photos of the "Join the dots" milling operation I took a couple this time.








Now we have two.








Brian.


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## BRIAN

Just could not resist putting the crank in to see how it all fits.

The pile of parts as it now stands.







Brian.


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## BRIAN

I have made a start on the Big end bearing, After taking the corners off the piece of bronze  I split it in half with the slitting saw.




Then soldered the parts back together




Turned the out side to the largest diameter (the flange) then bored the inside to the bearing diameter.





That's it for today.

Brian.


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## BRIAN

The problem now was to turn surface that mates with the connecting rod, this has to be a really good fit in the rod so it will not turn, a small locating pin will be fitted but the bearing must not rely on it ,
This has the added problem that when it is to size, I have to unsolder and clean up the joint so some small allowance must be made.










Ready for final fitting to the crank.


Brian.


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## BRIAN

The oil feed for the big end on this engine Is going to be a little different , I doubt if the idea is new  but it's new to me.

A drip feed oiler will supply oil to the outer side of the crank web where centrifugal force will spin it into the collecting ring and the pass it into the big end.









Hopefully this will give better lube than the usual big end oil cup without having to stop the engine and be less messy than splash feed.

We will see.  

Brian


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## BRIAN

The fiddly jobs today, Fitting the pins to the con rod bearings and balancing the crank.

Only the threads to retain the fly wheels and the key way's on the main shaft to do and the crank can be assembled, 
Boy will that be a relief.




Brian.


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## 12bolts

Did you just static balance the crank? I cant see any dimples in it, It must have been close.

Cheers Phil


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## BRIAN

Hi Phil
The crank / rod assy was balanced between centres statically and the oval areas milled out to get it right.
 I did not make through holes as I want a clean look on the outside of the webs.  And I did not want to interfere with the oil collector ring.
Brian.


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## BRIAN

Hi all 
Having returned from Christmas in Scotland, with two 1/2" X 20 nuts. it's time to thread the ends of the crank shaft.
In the picture of the set up you can see that I use  a dial gauge to measure the depth of cut, so I don't rely on the dials
just set the gauge to zero when the tool touches the work.




Then on to the mill to cut the keyways for the flywheel and timing gear.




The second full keyway is because,  in the future I want to drive a V belt from inside the rear flywheel.




Next job is to cut the keyways in the flywheels.


Brian.


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## blay127

incredible work! thanks for sharing with us!


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## 12bolts

BRIAN said:


> ....In the picture of the set up you can see that I use  a dial gauge to measure the depth of cut, so I don't rely on the dials
> just set the gauge to zero when the tool touches the work.
> View attachment 91509


Thats a neat trick, I havent seen that before! Such a simple idea too.

Cheers Phil


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## BRIAN

Decided to go for broke and Loctite the crank together, first the pin was  secured in one web ensuring the oil hole was in the correct position.




Next this web was secured on the shaft, with a tube to hold it firmly against the flange.




Then the final part was fitted in the same way.




This will now be put to one side until tomorrow, when I have to think about pinning them together with drill rod.

And that was quite enough nail biting for the day

Brian.


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## BRIAN

Last stages
Drill and pin the joints. then mill out the centre.




Test crank between centres , run out at the main bearing locations .01 mm-- Say .0005" I am more than happy with that.




Done job, just need to fit the rod and recheck the static balance.




Now for a sit down in front of the fire with a glass of wine.

Brian.


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## xalky

Awesome project thread!  Great skills and great documentation. I completely missed this thread too....how the heck did that happen? :noidea:

Pretty impressive from the designing to execution!

Marcel


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## BRIAN

Thanks Marcel.
I seem to have come a long way from that first "doodle",
Just could not resist doing a quick  assembly just to see how it all fits so far, all the clearances. seem to be just fine .so the next part will be the cam shaft. 




Brian.


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## jumps4

I have been following your thread from my email notices and your moving right along. nice work, at the rate your going it will be popping soon.
Steve


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## BRIAN

jumps4 said:


> I have been following your thread from my email notices and your moving right along. nice work, at the rate your going it will be popping soon.
> Steve



Don't hold your breath Steve there is a long way to go yet.
Thanks for the encouragement it helps to know someone is looking, as you well know.
By the way how did it go with the museum and the sugar mill? did it all pan out OK.

Brian


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## jumps4

The museum  in Homosassa finally got back to me and declined because their museum is so small.
 They suggested that I contact The management at Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park, and see if they were interested in putting it in their waiting area. Since then I have not gone up there and it is sitting under a sheet in a corner of my shop close to finished but not installed in the cabinet yet. I have no idea what I'm going to do with it yet, I'll probably put it on ebay, I don't have room for it in my home either. 
Steve


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## BRIAN

OK so its back to work
Looking around I found I had to many half finished job so I got into clearing  up some of them.
The intermediate timing gear did not have a shaft so one was made and the gear planted.
 the side plates had to be milled out to take the bearing retainer plates that I had not made yet??


So that had to be done.

Also the piston was not finished the blank had been made early on and lapped to the cylinder
 but I kept making excuses to my self that I had not ordered the rings. so it was put to one side ( I still haven't ordered them ) "Do other's do this" ,
So find the blank and drill the wrist pin hole.



Turn the inside of the skirt.




Then mill out the recess for the small end,




Now fit it all together to see how it fits,







That looks Better.


Brian.


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## BRIAN

Next step is the blank for the cam shaft.
Turned between centres so I can return it to the lathe after the cams are cut and reduce the shaft to fit the bearings
and the timing gear etc.




Next step will be on to the mill,with the rotary table, but its to cold at the moment for my brain to get up to working temperature for this job.

Brian.


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## BRIAN

Hi ho Hi ho  on to the mill we go, remove the 240° to form the base circle and we have a camshaft.








Slowly slowly    Brian.


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## BRIAN

A few more photo's showing the cam sub assy in the rough. two drip oilers will be mounted between the can shaft supports on the flat plate to lube the cyl and big end.










Keeping going  Brian.


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## BRIAN

The next problem was fixing the sub assy to the crank case with the correct gear alignment. a bit of a fiddle with a transfer punch and it was done. 






The oilers arrived in the post so that gave me the next job drill and tap 1/4 x 40 and in they go pipework to follow.




Almost forgot the cam gear and the ignition timing wheel had to be drilled to take the grub screws for location during timing operations, final fixing will be by a end cap and screw.




I have made a start on the carburettor It's taken a long time on the CAD to get this so it looks as if it's going to work.

So I have started cutting metal by making the throttle body.



Brian


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## BRIAN

Today has been a big day the valve retainers and pins made and the valves fitted.




The rockers made and fitted .











The rockers are going to be T beam in section and tapered toward the valve end so I have a little tidying to do but today it looks like an engine for the first time. 
waiting for the plug and gasket material, then I can see what the compression is like.
Still a lot to do.

Brian


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## BRIAN

Limited time in the shop today just to cold.

made progress on the carburettor.




Brian.


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## BRIAN

Short time in a very cold shop today.
Managed to drill the jet holes for idle and main ,and make the venturi , this involved making a form tool to cut the internal shape.   Hope for a better day tomorrow..




Brian.


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## BRIAN

Made the mixture controls today and started on the outer end plate.
Did a quick fit up to see how it all goes.




Coming along.---Brian.


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## BRIAN

The carb is getting nearer to a working item just the throttle leaver to do, still awaiting the diaphragm and valve for the gas demand valve.




Started on the feed system that takes oil from the drip feed into the big end. lots of head scratching to get this right.




The spark plug arrived today,  How's this for a little darling.





Its moving on..Brian.


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## 12bolts

Shouldnt you be using an inside mic to set the gap? 


BRIAN said:


> The spark plug arrived today,  How's this for a little darling.
> View attachment 94556



Cheers Phil


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## wrmiller

Very nice Brian. Enjoying the read.


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## itsme_Bernie

I am loving this thread!!  

Bernie


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## BRIAN

Been away in the shop making a new camshaft?  I put a protractor on the engine to prove the valve timing,  and it's a good job I did the opening periods where OK  but the overlap was far to wide so I had to adjust the drawing and make a new camshaft. all is now just fine.  The parts have arrived from J Howell for the gas demand valve. but I need a 3/8 x24 tap and that's not easy in Sicily, so I have had to order one.  meanwhile I can get on with the machining, the thread can be the last job.

  Brian


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## cjtoombs

This is a great build thread and you are making great progress.  Keep up the good work, as I am looking forward to seeing it.


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## Beez

Beautiful project!
I love how chunky and industrial looking its proportions are.
Chris


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## BRIAN

Thank you for your comments  much appreciated.
At home in Sicily  the weather is awful, for the last three days we have had,  Roads washed away , Retaining walls falling down and bridges closed, I think the view out of my library  window says it all.




The workshop is freezing cold but I have managed to get a few jobs done, the top water fitting  and the exhaust stub are made  but I have not yet drilled the head for the exhaust flange screws, a transfer punch job I think,
 the stub was made from hot rolled steel from my local blacksmith, I cant find a supplier of good material locally.
Turning the stub produced a terrible finish so the finishing cut was taken with a shear tool to get a good finish.











Here is how it looks so far  note it's on my desk not in the shop, just to keep warm.!!!







Slowly   slowly   Brian.Test


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## Bill Gruby

Brian;
  Is the thread on that plug 1/4-32? I have taps for that thread if you need one. All model engine glow plugs are 1/4-32. I use them a lot.

"Billy G"


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## BRIAN

Hi Bill.
Thanks for the offer, but I managed to get a three tap set from the UK. I am not leaving the plug in the motor while it is being worked on for fear of it getting damaged.  
Apart from hold up's due to weather, and post  things are moving along , perhaps another three weeks will see  it ready for it's first test .
Thanks for looking Brian.


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## BRIAN

The advance / retard  mechanism is now in place,  eventually the throttle will be mounted alongside.
 the tap I have been waiting fore arrived today so I can now get on with the gas demand valve , the last part required.




Getting near now  Brian.


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## BRIAN

I think tomorrow will bee the big day for a test without rings, just to see if a piston lapped to the bore works, just for fun,
Video camera has arrived so we are all set????



Keep fingers crossed.        Brian.


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## BRIAN

At last I have a running engine. it seems a long way from the first doodles a year ago to hearing it run today.
the carb is a little erratic. but otherwise all is well, I have made a short video, all I have to do now is find out how to up load it.



Talk about old dogs and new tricks I struggle with the changes but we get there eventually.

Brian.


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## 18w

Very nice work Brian. Can't wait to hear it run.

Darrell


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## BRIAN

I have put it on you tube http://youtu.be/FtX0KFoT5hE  see if it works.


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## Bill Gruby

That was cool Brian.

 "Billy G"


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## BRIAN

Thanks Bill, the mixture needs attention and the best timing found . but it seems to run just fine.

Brian .


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## BRIAN

I hope this works.



 will soon know.


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## BRIAN

Have worked all day tidying the drawings and making the notes for the plans book.
 Thank you to Nels for the info on down loading video it works a treat.

Brian.


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## BRIAN

Today was taken up fitting the piston rings, now I have to make a cover for the crank case and paint the raw cast iron barrel and head.
	

		
			
		

		
	




Lots more work to do.

Brian.


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## jumps4

Your motor sounded good
Nice work 
Steve


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## BRIAN

Thanks Steve
In the video it is running without a silencer I expect the slow running and throttle response to improve when the exhaust gets a little back pressure, the vale overlap is calculated with this in mind, so I still have work to do.  also the drawings all have to be tidied up There will be about 60 of them Plus the workshop notes to do .
Keeping at it.      Brian.


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## BRIAN

At last I have the engine complete with its piston rings fitted and running, I have taken a video 
and will try to master the editing soon. the plans and build notes are finished so that's a relief,
 A few photo's of the beast.


.
	

		
			
		

		
	













It's been a long haul  and my thanks' to all of you that gave likes and thanks and encouragement  it helps a lot .


Brian.


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## BRIAN

Going to try another video upload. Keep fingers crossed.


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## BRIAN

Got it wrong again try.


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## BRIAN

The end of an era the engine and tools will leave the shop tomorrow for Scotland to be a surprise present for our 8 year old grand son
I will miss it but I hope I am investing in the future .






Brian.


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## jumps4

What a great gift Brian.
sounds good and looks good 
Steve


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