# old enco



## norm (Mar 18, 2011)

well I finaly broke my old lathe caled enco about some parts.  they said its to old you need to update to a newer one.  it is a 91 model 110-1340 and I was abusing it and broke the topslide on the compoundrest. so I asked if I had a newer lathe would they have the part for it ?  turnedout no would be 6 to 8 weeks 
from china.  I looked at the parts list of the grizzly 4016 looked the same and the had a top slide in stock.  ordered it done some drilling and tapping back to good as new.  thanks to zigeuner post gave me a good place to start looking .


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## Starlight Tools (Mar 18, 2011)

The big problem with import machines is that each tool is individually fitted, so depending on how high the worker was as to whether the holes were drilled up hill or down. As each was fitted, the dimensions could vary from machine to machine making interchangabilty almost impossible. 

Also the factory will order a batch of an item and when it is used up, they order another batch, but no telling if it is from the same source or ?, it could be that company b undercut company a this time so they got the order and there are often changes to the machines from one serial number to the next. It is almost as bad as when the war effort was trying to crank out machine tools and using whatever they could to come up with something they could call a machine. The Frankenlathe was not uncommon, right out of the factory!

Also many of the older import machines came from Taiwan, but only the best companies survived the switch from Taiwan to China, so any machines that are from the older plants, well parts just ain't there no more, nor are often the specs and drawings.

Now we get to China, they were in such a hurry to crank out machines to sell, they did not care how good they were. It is often impossible for me to track down parts. I am dealing with a Chinese welder right now and the part does not show up on the parts list. And calls to the factory have so far been coming up empty handed. What is worse is that the client removed the part and it went missing, so all I have is a hole that a part fits to and no way to identify it. 

When I was importing tools, the owner of the company would order our spare parts at the time we ordered the machines, hoping we got in enough to cover what was needed for the future and knowing full well that that may be the last time we would be able to get those parts. Also a few machines were set aside for "parts robbing"

Now Norm, I am glad you managed to find a part at Grizzly that fit. That is one company that seems to at least try to provide a level of customer service, and they have grown because of it.

Walter


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## Zigeuner (Mar 19, 2011)

Enco has a warehouse in Atlanta, GA where they keep their parts so it's a matter of persevence on the telephone. 

The present Enco 110-1352 is very similar to the earlier 110-1340 machines that Norm and I have. The Grizzly G4016 13-1/2 X 40 is also quite similar. Thus, many of the parts from either of those machines could probably be made to fit the earlier 110-1340. 

I'm sure there would be minor variations even with the same part number since they are made at all different times. Things like gibs and T-slots for QCTP's would no doubt have to be fitted. The parts are out there, though. 

I'm glad that Norm was able to get what he needed from Grizzly.


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## joesmith (Aug 27, 2011)

I acquired an enco 110-1340 2 weeks ago. I bought it from a Craigs list add for $600. I used your posting on the internet re the Grizzly 4016 to obtain threading charts and other info. A previous owner had removed the plate on the QC and installed a dial indicator mounting bracket. Most of the plates are too faded to read. Do you know a source for an original manual? In a few days I will start a new topic with qics and more details. I think this old lathe is going to be a winner..


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## Zigeuner (Aug 27, 2011)

joesmith link=topic=1353.msg23506#msg23506 date=1314491412 said:
			
		

> I acquired an enco 110-1340 2 weeks ago. I bought it from a Craigs list add for $600. I used your posting on the internet re the Grizzly 4016 to obtain threading charts and other info. A previous owner had removed the plate on the QC and installed a dial indicator mounting bracket. Most of the plates are too faded to read. Do you know a source for an original manual? In a few days I will start a new topic with qics and more details. I think this old lathe is going to be a winner..



As I may have said, the 110-1340 is apparently identical to the Grizzly G4016. They call the G4016 a "13-1/2 X 40". It looks identical. I don't know where they got the other half inch. LOL. 

Here are the links again from the G4016. 

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g4016_m.pdf

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g4016_m.pdf

http://www.grizzly.com/products/g4016/parts

Also, here is another machine that is very similar to the 110-1340 - the 110-1351. 
http://www.use-enco.com/Machinery/110-1351.pdf

The manual is on the Enco site. You can also call them to see if they can locate a manual for you. 

Good luck with your machine.


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## joesmith (Aug 27, 2011)

thanks I printed several pages of the 110-1351 manual and will check the change gear settings. I have printed most of the Grizzly 4016 manual and it has the info I really needed. I still have a lot of cleaning, painting and "turng" to do.  tomorrow I will level again using my 15" Lufkin(early Starrett). Then I will try cutting a 1 1/2" bar for 4 Inches and mike the ends. I expect it to be within .00005" which is fine for the type work I usually do. I have a newer 13x40 I bought new that is dead on and a 10" hvy 10 SB that aslo cuts dead on for close jobs. I consider this oldEnco a fun project to get it back as close as I can. I seem to enjoy setting up these old machines. 
Joe


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## Zigeuner (Aug 27, 2011)

joesmith link=topic=1353.msg23510#msg23510 date=1314496752 said:
			
		

> thanks I printed several pages of the 110-1351 manual and will check the change gear settings. I have printed most of the Grizzly 4016 manual and it has the info I really needed. I still have a lot of cleaning, painting and "turng" to do. tomorrow I will level again using my 15" Lufkin(early Starrett). Then I will try cutting a 1 1/2" bar for 4 Inches and mike the ends. I expect it to be within .00005" which is fine for the type work I usually do. I have a newer 13x40 I bought new that is dead on and a 10" hvy 10 SB that aslo cuts dead on for close jobs. I consider this oldEnco a fun project to get it back as close as I can. I seem to enjoy setting up these old machines.
> Joe



Hi, 
They are a good lathe, but you may be optimistic regarding that number.......00005. Are you sure that you didn't add an extra zero by mistake? Somewhere I have the original inspection sheet from my machine. It's in metric numbers but I don't believe any of the numbers were that for to the right of the decimal, inch or metric. 

One of the few machines I heard of that can do that sort of work would be the Monarch 10EE. A neighbor of mine who is a professional machinist has one in his shop a mile from my house. That's a nice machine. It's the only other lathe I would really like to have. I saw one in the same warehouse the day that I bought my Webb Mill. It was in nice shape but the broker wanted $4K for it. A little too rich for me at the time. I was also lugging home the Webb which weights 3,500 #. I don't think I could have hauled another 4,000 pounds. LOL. 

Did you get the steady and follow rests with it? Also, there should be 8 change gears that go with the machine. I've done a few metric threads on mine and I recall that I changed a couple of gears for a friend once so that we could chase a large metric thread on the end of a Japanese hydraulic ram. 

Mine had a lantern toolpost on it when it came. I changed that for a Phase II QCTP and a set of BXA holders before I ever used the machine. I also added a keyless 1/8" to 5/8" chuck for the tailstock. 

It has been an excellent machine, far better than I am. I'm a .001 sort of a guy. With me, if it looks good, it is good. 90% of what I do is for various motorcycles. .+/1 001 does it for me. LOL. 

Let us know how it works out for you.


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## Tony Wells (Aug 27, 2011)

You won't get a half tenth out of a lathe. There wouldn't be so many grinders out there if you could.


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## joesmith (Aug 27, 2011)

sorry, I hit 1 too many zeros. I'll report back what I get. I'm talking about a single cut. No way this old lathe could match the precision of a good 10EE or many of the other high dollar lathes. But close to a.001 is better than I need for most of my jobs. I'm just an old hobbist. I got the 3 and 4 jaw chucks, a noname BX wedge toolpost and a good tailstock chuck--no steady, follower or faceplate.
It had all the extra gears per the Grizzly manual and 4 others I don't see where to use. They appeared to never have been unwrapped.


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## joesmith (Aug 27, 2011)

I found 7 extra gears 30, 36, 42, 50, 51, 60, 66 I will recheck tomorrow to see which one I'm missing.


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## Zigeuner (Aug 28, 2011)

joesmith link=topic=1353.msg23517#msg23517 date=1314502444 said:
			
		

> sorry, I hit 1 too many zeros. I'll report back what I get. I'm talking about a single cut. No way this old lathe could match the precision of a good 10EE or many of the other high dollar lathes. But close to a.001 is better than I need for most of my jobs. I'm just an old hobbist. I got the 3 and 4 jaw chucks, a noname BX wedge toolpost and a good tailstock chuck--no steady, follower or faceplate.
> It had all the extra gears per the Grizzly manual and 4 others I don't see where to use. They appeared to never have been unwrapped.



You will be fine with that machine. It's a good, solid lathe. Mine is a 1994 model. It's got all that I need. I was using it today to make four 2" wheels for my Crafstman motorcycle lift. It had 3" wheels and it was too high to slide under my Harley-Davidson Dyna. I found some nice 2" X 2" steel round drops from a steel yard and narrowed them and reamed them for ouilite busihings. All is well now and the bike is up on the lift. The 1/2" lowering job did the trick. I got them all within .001 width and that's that. The old Enco came through again!

I used the machine so much since I bought it that I wore the original chuck a bit. I cleaned the jaws up a couple of times but a couple of years ago I bought a new chuck from Enco. It has reversible jaws which are nice. The original chuck has change jaws which came with the machine to reverse. I use the original chuck with my 6" rotary table sometimes now. 

My lathe has a 2 hp Chinese motor that's been very good. The only repairs to the lathe so far have been two new drive belts (they are dual side by side. I presuime yours is the same) and a burned out power light. I couldn't find a replacement neon bulb since it was an oddball so I replaced the light unit with a red indicator from a switch that I had. Otherwise, it's all been good. 

As I mentioined earlier before you posted, I finally raised my lathe bed 3" with some steel risers. There wasn't emough room under there to clear out the swarf. I also wanted it a bit higher. It's easy to do. I also added a two-axis SINO DRO about a year ago. It works great! 

Let us know how you like your machine when you get it cleaned up. 

P.S. Enco is still selling a similar machine for almost the same price. The newer one has 18 speeds (Mine goes from 70 to 2100 with 8 speeeds which is all I have ever needed)


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## joesmith (Aug 29, 2011)

8 gears were mentioned in the previous 110-1340 post. I inventoried my tool box and found 8-- 30, 36, 42, 50, 51, 60, 66.

I matched the metric plate on the lathe to the G4006 manual and there is a match. Only the 30 tooth gear is listed on the metric plate. The grizzly g4016 parts list shows only 1 change gear in the inventory. Where are the other 7 gears used?
As soon as I can I will make test cuts to verify the thread charts I can use.

I ran into a few minor problems I must fix before I can try cutting. The lathe is runs thru all speed and is reasonably quiet. I ran several gear selections and all seems ok. I am still anxious to see how much of a taper the lathe cuts after it is leveled.
To me that is a very important alignment test. It has been difficult to work in the garage more than a few hrs each morning. It was 104 at 8 pm last night and is 105 now.


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## Zigeuner (Aug 29, 2011)

joesmith link=topic=1353.msg23668#msg23668 date=1314649718 said:
			
		

> 8 gears were mentioned in the previous 110-1340 post. I inventoried my tool box and found 8-- 30, 36, 42, 50, 51, 60, 66.
> 
> I matched the metric plate on the lathe to the G4006 manual and there is a match. Only the 30 tooth gear is listed on the metric plate. The grizzly g4016 parts list shows only 1 change gear in the inventory. Where are the other 7 gears used?
> As soon as I can I will make test cuts to verify the thread charts I can use.
> ...



I really don't know what all of those gears might be used for. I'm sure that they are addressed in the manual. I have to look for mine. LOL. I only cut Inch threads. If you do metric, the manuals you have tell you to change two gears and then it will go metric, assuming that you have an English lead screw. Of course I'm sure that you know you don't disconnect the drive when you do metric threads. You shut off, back up, tighten up and then cut again until you are done. 

Is your lathe an 8 speed? The newer ones are 16 speed. I always wondered whether they did that with a two speed motor. The 8 speed headstock is built like a tank. The gears are enormous~!

As to cutting witout a taper, there is a scale on the back of the tailstock. You can move the two set screws (one on each side of the tailstock) to line it up. I did that with mine and it will cut without a taper. 

Good luck!


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## joesmith (Sep 3, 2011)

I haven"t been able to find a manual.  The Grizzly G4016 manual metric threading chart matches the plate on my change gear box. The G4016 manual indicates that only 1 extra gear was supplied (30t) which is substituted for a 40t for the metric setup. I will verify this in the next few days by making test cuts. I still have some cleaning and painting to do.

My lathe is a 2hp 8 speed. I also have a 13x40 I purchased new from WT Tool about 6 yrs ago. It haS 18 SPEEDS. 9 speeds from 60 to 1150 on the first pulley step and 90-1800 on the second pulley step. It has a single belt to the motor.

I have made a few test cuts bt want to do some more tuning before I run it seriously. So far I like how it runs. It is reasonably quiet in all gear settings. The on off lever is backwards from my WT machine. This will cause some confusion.

I will try to raise my lathe 3 inches also. It is too low--about 3" lower than my wt machine. 

My reference to cutting a taper was as a test that the lathe is level. I refer to making a light cut on a piece of steel 1" or greater for 3 or 4" close to the headstock without supported the stockn with the tailstock center. Mike at each end of the cut. A taper indicates that the lathe is not level or that bed wear is causing the taper. My first try showed +.002" taper. This is not good. I need to improve this. 

Thanks for the comments. Joe Smithj


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## Zigeuner (Sep 4, 2011)

There is another cause of taper. The tailstock could be misaligned with the headstock. There is an adjustment on the tailstock on the 13X40 but you know that. 

It's intertesting how they get 18 speeds on the newer ones. It's an 8 speed with step pulleys. I never needed any more speeds than the basic eight. I wouldn't care to change belts. Mine has two belts side by side on same sized pulleys.


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## joesmith (Sep 4, 2011)

I agree, I have never changed the belt on my newer 13x40&gt; The 9 slower speeds meet my needs.
Joe


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## Zigeuner (Sep 4, 2011)

joesmith link=topic=1353.msg24351#msg24351 date=1315160018 said:
			
		

> I agree, I have never changed the belt on my newer 13x40&gt; The 9 slower speeds meet my needs.
> Joe



I guess that the 18 speed specification is just a sales gimmick. Mine goes from 70 rpm (great for threading) to 2000 (nice for polishing, but rather scary. LOL) If you take the cover off of the gearbox, you will see that it is very robust looking inside. The gears are quite large. It holds a gallon of oil, but changing it is really a waste of time and money because it always looks very clean. 

It has a dual range on the gear levers. It's actually a four speed gearbox with a dual geared range for each speed. Nice.


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