# If you need gears... Print them...



## Ray C

I happen to come across this video from Mr. Pete222 (aka Tubal Cain).   



   While I did not watch the entire video, it appears that 3D printed gears are available for the Atlas.

Have at it...

Ray C.


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## john.oliver35

I watched this last night - the Atlas ran pretty well with the printed gears!


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## Ray C

john.oliver35 said:


> I watched this last night - the Atlas ran pretty well with the printed gears!



I'd imagine it improves the sound quite a bit.

At the age of 5 or 6, my dad had me working in his shop and by the time I was 7, I was using the 15x54 LeBlond.  From the age of 22 to roughly 40, I didn't touch anything shop related.   Upon setting-up a garage shop, my starter lathe was an Atlas 618.   It took a good long adjustment phase for me , and the lathe was eventually rebuilt one piece at a time .  I can still hear the sound of those gears rattling away . 


Ray


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## clif

I'm printing a 36 tooth test gear right now.  It's pla, but a good test as to the abilities to print, and how this gear would respond.  It's one of the two gears on the foward reverse lever that seem to wear so much.


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## mattthemuppet2

nice! I have both an Altlas 618 and a 3D printer. I also have a full set of change gears too, but it would be an interesting idea to make up a series of cassettes with the gears premounted to a banjo for the common pitches (18, 20, 32 are ones I'd use a bunch). Not sure I do enough threading to justify the time, but at least the cost of the gears won't be a limiting factor!


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## Ray C

mattthemuppet2 said:


> nice! I have both an Altlas 618 and a 3D printer. I also have a full set of change gears too, but it would be an interesting idea to make up a series of cassettes with the gears premounted to a banjo for the common pitches (18, 20, 32 are ones I'd use a bunch). Not sure I do enough threading to justify the time, but at least the cost of the gears won't be a limiting factor!



Even if the cost of 3D printing were higher than getting scalped on eBay, you'd still be better off.   I remember purchasing a couple replacement parts for the Atlas and upon arrival, discovered they were worn more than the ones on the lathe.  So, of course, that expedited the purchase of a mill -so I could make parts for the lathe...  -Sigh...

Ray


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## mattthemuppet2

yeah, that's always a worry too. Even in ABS with 100% fill the largest gear would still only cost ~30c to print (ignoring the cost of the printer of course). I've been really happy with my 618 - I sometimes wish I had a larger lathe, particularly with a larger spindle bore, but for the most part it's been great.


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## Terrywerm

Ray C said:


> At the age of 5 or 6, my dad had me working in his shop and *by the time I was 7, I was using the 15x54 LeBlond.*



See, I always thought you were spoiled when you were a youngster. Now you admitted it!!


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## clif

Printing done, meshes well with the stock gears, and visually matches the 36 tooth gear on the lathe.  Too cold to do much more right now.

Gear printing, on a hictop ender 2,  and finished gear.  For a $199 printer it doesn't do a bad job.


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## clif

BTW files and info here;

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:143893/#files 

A printable spindle thread protector here;

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2585891


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## Ray C

terrywerm said:


> See, I always thought you were spoiled when you were a youngster. Now you admitted it!!



I'll tell y'a Terry, I was indeed spoiled to have that Lathe.   It was a gear-head (not servo shift) and it could cut!  Naive as I was, I thought everybody's dad had one in their garage.   Funny thing though, in this day/age, if "child services" knew that some kid was using a 4000lb, 10HP machine, the father would be taken away in handcuffs.

Ray


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## jocat54

clif said:


> Printing done, meshes well with the stock gears, and visually matches the 36 tooth gear on the lathe.  Too cold to do much more right now.
> 
> Gear printing, on a hictop ender 2,  and finished gear.  For a $199 printer it doesn't do a bad job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 254572
> View attachment 254571



Clif, What printer do you have?


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## cdhknives

I am really curious as to how many hours of service printed gears like that will give...my tumbler gears are about shot and I have been looking at replacing them.  For the cost of them I am more or less halfway to a low end 3D printer...and I have LOTS of ideas for 3D printing.


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## Ray C

cdhknives said:


> I am really curious as to how many hours of service printed gears like that will give...my tumbler gears are about shot and I have been looking at replacing them.  For the cost of them I am more or less halfway to a low end 3D printer...and I have LOTS of ideas for 3D printing.



LOL:  There was a hidden message in your post.   Enjoy the 3D printer...  Let us know what one you settle on.


Ray


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## ttabbal

If you would rather not buy a printer, I could print a couple gears for people. But don't let that stop you from getting one, they are great tools to have around.  

If you want me to print things, you need to be able to supply STLs. I don't have time to do gear designs from scratch.


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## cdhknives

It is all about justifying it to the 'budget department...'


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## cdhknives

ttabbal said:


> If you would rather not buy a printer, I could print a couple gears for people. But don't let that stop you from getting one, they are great tools to have around.
> 
> If you want me to print things, you need to be able to supply STLs. I don't have time to do gear designs from scratch.



Are the files Clif linked above compatible with your equipment?


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## ttabbal

cdhknives said:


> It is all about justifying it to the 'budget department...'



I know how that goes, all too well.  



cdhknives said:


> Are the files Clif linked above compatible with your equipment?



Yes, I can print those. I just often get people thinking I can print what's in their head. Though I guess a bunch of machinists would understand that better than most.


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## tr7sprint1

clif said:


> BTW files and info here;
> 
> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:143893/#files
> 
> A printable spindle thread protector here;
> 
> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2585891


 

For those that don't have an 3D printer. You might want to check your local UPS store. 

While taking a package to UPS store Lisle, IL a few weeks ago. I noticed that they provided a 3D printing service using ABS plastic, all they needed is an STL file (which the above link provides) to give price of part to print.

I was told by the owner that a few other UPS stores provided this service, but he told he could print and ship.


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## wa5cab

Just so that everyone knows that there ain't no such thing as a free lunch, in general order of decreasing strength and longevity, gears made of various common materials are generally as follows"

Steel
Cast Iron  (in some cases this one can be below Zamak)
Zamak
Machined or molded Delrin or Nylon (I'm not sure of the actual order for these four types)
Printed Delrin with Kevlar reinforcing (I'm told that printers start at around $10K)
Printed Delrin.

Which isn't to say that you shouldn't use printed Delrin.  Just be prepared for more frequent replacements.


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## mattthemuppet2

I think that makes sense. The plus side with a 3D printer is that there's no cost issue and very little effort required for making more, so the longevity issue becomes less of an issue. Obviously a gear stripping during a crucial threading operation would be a major issue, so time will tell how much warning one would get of failure.


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## Dave Paine

There are many types of 3D printer filament.   An inexpensive PLA reel of the typical 1.75mm dia is $15 - 20 / kg.   I looked at some of the stronger materials, may have been some type of reinforced nylon and carbon fibre filled filament, cost of some products were $375/lb or about $875/kg.

Hence the cost may not be as cheap as desired, but can be cheaper than metal, just may not last as long.

I do like the concept of being able to make a replacement part, even if it does not last as long.

I am close to getting a 3D printer, just pondering which model.


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## agfrvf

Anyone want cast A356 change gears. My originals are good but I can print and cast too.


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## agfrvf

Fyi: PLA gets brittle and weak when exposed to moisture. Use ABS.


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## ttabbal

I would suggest Nylon, ABS, or PETG for gears. The filled types aren't really any stronger, they are more for looks. With the possible exception of the type that runs a continuous strand of carbon fiber though the part like the MarkForged. 

Obviously, cutting steel gears out would be better. Casting from printed copies would probably be pretty good as well. I would see something like this as a standby while you get something better. They might hold up reasonably well if the torque loads are low enough, I have several printed gears that have a lot of runtime on them. I'm not sure how much force is really on these gears in that lathe. I know a lot of smaller import lathes use plastic gearing though.


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## clif

> Clif, What printer do you have?



Several;

My first a Anet A6 is undergoing an almost complete rebuild, due to a mother board failure plus the normal upgrades most Chinese prusa i3 clones get.  (Got it off Amazon)

The printer I used for this print was a Hictop Ender 2  (Got this one off ebay) 

I would recommend this as a starter printer for most who are willing to do a relatively simple build.  It took me less than an hour to put it together and get a print started, where as the Anet took over 8 hours.  Be forwarned there is a learning curve here, just as with any new type of machine.

As far as material to use to print gears. PLA the easiest to print is the most brittle and weakest, however oil doesn't degrade it.  ABS I would NOT recommend because of the problems with both warping and need to exhaust the fumes, PETG is better here, but Nylon is even better.

IF you want to learn a bit more four people with u-tube channels I could recommend are;

Thomas Sanladerer:

Makers Muse

3D Maker Noob

3D Printing Nerd

I know even more u-tube channels to waste time on, however most everything I know I learned from these people and a couple others.


One last thing, I am waiting for the Prusa MK3 from Prusa Research, because I want a better printer to work with, and Josef Prusa is the originator of the I3 design, the chinese are so fond of cloning. Should arrive at the end of the month.


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## clif

BTW this is the future;

Iro3D desktop Metal 3D printer

It basically "prints" the sand and metal in a sort of open top mold that is fused in a furnace.


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## easttex

clif said:


> BTW this is the future;
> 
> Iro3D desktop Metal 3D printer
> 
> It basically "prints" the sand and metal in a sort of open top mold that is fused in a furnace.


That's actually pretty clever. You'll still need a furnace to fire the crucible in and need final finish (like a lot of castings) but overall, I'd say it's a fairly novel approach. 

With the right metal powder and a furnace that's hot enough, you'd certainly get your gears out of it.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## francist

Most if not all Zamak alloys have a pretty low melting point, like just over 700 F. I've often wondered why nobody seems to be casting new gears out of it or some of the other more desirable parts for the Atlas machines. 

Maybe not enough demand? Maybe still enough originals around to not make it worthwhile? I've not done any die casting specifically but have been involved with quite a few sand and / or lost wax casting, seems like Zamak would be a fair candidate for either of those processes on a small scale. Or is there a fundamental flaw in my thinking somewhere?

-frank


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## clif

The zinc in the casting might be difficult to control in an open casting set up like we do in sand casting.  Same reason I try to avoid casting brass, and use bronze instead if I can.

BTW for those with a Atlas 618/craftsman 6"  or craftsman 109 lathe gears are here;

http://www.yeggi.com/q/atlas+618/


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## wa5cab

I don't know enough about the process to know how necessary it is nor what the pressure involved is.  But the machine shown in the photograph in most of the MOLO's operates at what I would guess is a fairly high pressure.


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## 7milesup

clif said:


> As far as material to use to print gears. PLA the easiest to print is the most brittle and weakest, however oil doesn't degrade it.  ABS I would NOT recommend because of the problems with both warping and need to exhaust the fumes, PETG is better here, but Nylon is even better.
> 
> IF you want to learn a bit more four people with u-tube channels I could recommend are;
> 
> Thomas Sanladerer:
> 
> Makers Muse
> 
> 3D Maker Noob
> 
> 3D Printing Nerd
> 
> One last thing, I am waiting for the Prusa MK3 from Prusa Research, because I want a better printer to work with, and Josef Prusa is the originator of the I3 design, the chinese are so fond of cloning. Should arrive at the end of the month.




I purchased a Prusa MK2 from Josef in November, about 2 weeks before he announced the Mk3.  I will have to say, I love that printer.  Mine has been pretty much flawless, plus you get the support via online chat or email from Prusa Research.  Just can't say enough good things about the Prusa.   I am tired of the Chinese copying everything, and I chose to support Josef Prusa.  Yes, it cost some money, but most good things do. 

Also, the Creality CR-10 would be on my list of printers to try if you want to go inexpensive.  You can also get it pre-built, but then you are looking at a fair amount of money.  Creality CR-10 Pre-Built

I have printed numerous items from PETG and I am surprised at how strong they are.


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## cdhknives

Just to compare, what is the expected cost to have the following gears printed:

9-101-20A 20-T gear for feed screw tumbler
9-101-24A 24-T gear for feed screw tumbler
9-100-32 Spindle gear

I got a quote from Clausing this morning (1/18/2018) and new replacements are in stock for $42.76, $42.92, and $31.68.  I figure I would have to get at least 2 of each in a better quality Nylon or better at this price to make it worthwhile...


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## 7milesup

That seems very expensive for a 3D printed part.  Heck, maybe I should start doing this.  If you have a 3D drawing or STL file I could take a look for you.


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## cdhknives

The prices I posted are replacement metal parts which should be the equal of Zamak originals.  Use those prices as comparison when deciding if printed plastic gears are really worth buying.  They are NOT 3D printed plastic!  I do not know if they are new old stock or modern manufacture, but they are from the company that bought Atlas decades ago.


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## ttabbal

There's a thingiverse link above with the files. Based on the sizes, I wouldn't expect more than $10/ea in nylon, depending on exactly how much filament is needed, as nylon can be on the more expensive side. It's also kind of a pain to print for a lot of people. So things to consider. I do think it's probably one of the best available filaments for this though. 

I also like the idea of doing a cast replacement, but I don't have a foundry running so I can't comment on the costs there.


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## larry4406

I thought it was pretty cool of Mr Pete to intentionally increase the radial depth of cut until the lathe locked up (stopped spinning) as the belt slipped; no broken gear teeth on the 100% filled gear. 

He also printed gears of different fill % and showed how the teeth snapped via pliers abuse to qualitatively show the strength of the teeth. 

I could see getting a 3D printer in the future but doubt I would be a sufficient CAD monkey to create the model and driver files.


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## 7milesup

One other thought about these gears and 3D printing.  If you want stronger gears (as far as teeth are concerned) and a much quieter running machine would be to use helical gears.  I realize all would have to be changed but for someone that is missing a number of gears, that might be a viable option too.   The guy I work with has a plug-in for gear making on Solidworks.


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## wa5cab

cdhknives said:


> The prices I posted are replacement metal parts which should be the equal of Zamak originals.  Use those prices as comparison when deciding if printed plastic gears are really worth buying.  They are NOT 3D printed plastic!  I do not know if they are new old stock or modern manufacture, but they are from the company that bought Atlas decades ago.



First a minor correction - Clausing didn't buy Atlas.  During the period late 1949 early 1950, Atlas bought Clausing.  There are essentially no records or information surviving but it appears that in about the mid 1960's, former Clausing employees got the upper hand and changed the company name to Clausing.  They also forced the Atlas contingent to change their part numbering system to the Clausing version.  Fortunately, it was only applied to new parts, not existing ones.  Unfortunately, it was applied to revisions of existing parts.  

Back to the subject at hand, the current Clausing prices on gears reflect current or recent manufacturing costs.  The gears (and half nuts) are relatively new, not NOS.  The price of the change gears is competitive with Boston if you include the cost of tooling and labor to modify the Boston blanks so that they can be used.


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## Ripdog38

Anyone print a Backgear? M6-241?


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## wa5cab

I doubt that it would last more than a few weeks.  Plastic isn't strong enough for the set screw, the Woodruff key, or the direct drive pin, spring and set screw.  And the index holes would be easily damaged.


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## coherent

I use some PLA in my 3D printer that is pretty strong stuff. You can print it with any price range printer and when the part is done you can aneal it on a baking sheet in your oven. Its high temp resistant also. There are a number of new high strength filaments out there and the list is growing. I was just reading about a carbon fiber filament that is supposed to be really strong. Do a search for high strength filaments and you'll be surprised what's out there.

I've had my printer for a little over a year. Import clone of a dual extruder FlashForge Creator by a China company called Qidi. I beleive I only paid about 600 for it through Amazon and although they have gone up a little, they have upgraded models now. I'm happy with it. There are plenty of other companies making 3D printers now which has kept prices reasonably low so lots of choices. Tons of aftermarket parts and filaments available and the field is still growing. Once you have one, it's amazing all the little plastics do dads and parts you can make. Then you can tell your wife... "look dear, I made a new window screen frame corner, it only cost me $650".  But seriously, they do come in handy and hey, who doesn't want a new toy.. err tool?


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## markba633csi

What about aluminum Robert? Where does 6061-T6 fall on the scale I wonder?
Mark


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## clif

Just for reference

Tensile Yield Strength 

Zamac  30,200 psi

Aluminum 6061-T6    40000 psi  

PLA 9500 psi

ABS 4,300 psi  

Nylon 5,800 psi

Polycarbonate  10,000 psi 

PVC 6,500 psi

1018 steel  63800 psi

12L14 steel 78300 psi


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## Round in circles

easttex said:


> That's actually pretty clever. You'll still need a furnace to fire the crucible in and need final finish (like a lot of castings) but overall, I'd say it's a fairly novel approach.
> 
> With the right metal powder and a furnace that's hot enough, you'd certainly get your gears out of it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk



I suspect that using an induction ring & a slow speed  lifiting motor device to move the coil instead of a furnace to bring thing up to fusing temperatures will be much easier


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## Round in circles

clif said:


> Just for reference
> 
> Tensile Yield Strength
> 
> Zamac  30,200 psi
> 
> Aluminum 6061-T6    40000 psi
> 
> PLA 9500 psi
> 
> ABS 4,300 psi
> 
> Nylon 5,800 psi
> 
> Polycarbonate  10,000 psi
> 
> PVC 6,500 psi
> 
> 1018 steel  63800 psi
> 
> 12L14 steel 78300 psi



  Have you got shear figures for them all for the same thicknesses rather than tensile strength ? 

 The meshing of the teeth on the plastic gears appears to show two faces incontact all the time , so shear strength will be high . One thing that's crossed my mind is that  you might keep the web of the gears holow  honey combed but make the teeth and a few mm of their  feet roots solid .  That would allow a lot of wear & shear strength .

 Dear Santa Clause ,
If I'm good can I have a decent 3D printer ?


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## clif

Round in circles said:


> Have you got shear figures for them all for the same thicknesses rather than tensile strength ?



No I looked up the tensile strength, because that was easy; most data sheets had it.


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## Wxm88

Cool. I am actually in need for some threading gears. Can you guys make some recommendation on what 3D printer to get? I don't know much about the 3D printer at all.


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## Dave Paine

Wxm88 said:


> Cool. I am actually in need for some threading gears. Can you guys make some recommendation on what 3D printer to get? I don't know much about the 3D printer at all.



I happen to have purchased a Creality CR10S printer this week.   An updated model of the one MrPete222 has.   It is easy to assemble and is working. 

I am finding there is a lot of learning curve to how to tweak the settings in the slicing software.    This software converts the STL CAD files into GCode for the printer.   One part printed but back quality.    I ran the same part through different slicer software and got an incomplete print, inside wall was not solid.

The 3D printers are often made in China, like mine.    Instructions were minimal.   The software on the SD card was corrupt, and likely is still be copied as corrupt.

Whatever printer you get, check for community forums before you purchase.    You will get better support from such a forum more than the manufacturer.

I can see having a lot of fun with this once I get over the learning curve.


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## Dave Paine

I just came across on Thingiverse this for SB lathe, metric change gear.

It should be possible to scale this for e.g. a 10in lathe.

SB metric change gear for 9in lathe


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## FarmDad

My Creality 10S should be here Monday and the price of gears from Clausing  is what pushed me over the edge .  I figure I can print a LOT of replacements  not to mention other stuff  and come out ahead . 

Thanks to the OP for this thread because it honestly hadn't ocured to me  to buy a printer to play with until I saw it   LOL .


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## Wxm88

FarmDad said:


> My Creality 10S should be here Monday and the price of gears from Clausing  is what pushed me over the edge .  I figure I can print a LOT of replacements  not to mention other stuff  and come out ahead .
> 
> Thanks to the OP for this thread because it honestly hadn't ocured to me  to buy a printer to play with until I saw it   LOL .


 I am on the same boat. Please keep us updated on the Creality.


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## FarmDad

It arrived yesterday .  Assembly was straightforward as long as you paid attention to the axis labels on the  cableing. The unlabeled cable goes on the " string sensor limit switch "  . The included instructions are worthless  so head to Youtube for unboxing and assembly videos.  As far as that topic goes about the best and most understandable I found was  by this fella  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC55pmMthdArS4MV1x9FT9nQ  I did not get the table trammed yet ( They say level the table , but you need to think of it like tramming a mill using a piece of paper to set the gap between the print head and print surface  at least on the corners and center  ) . Not sure how much time to mess with it I will have now until next week .

Edited to add ..

Once I get it squirting plastic as it should  one of the first things I will print is one of the dial indicator holders  on thingieverse ( same site as the gears ) that can be found by searching for  CR-10 . That should make keeping it in tram a lot easier .


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## 4GSR

Here's a guy selling replacement gears for South Bends, Sheldons, Atlas, Logan lathes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/REPLACEMEN...584799?hash=item3d4494741f:g:qW4AAOSwTM5YxfPZ

I bought two from him recently and I will say they are nice.  He doesn't say what material they are made of, seems to be fairly tough.


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## Dave Paine

FarmDad said:


> Once I get it squirting plastic as it should  one of the first things I will print is one of the dial indicator holders  on thingieverse ( same site as the gears ) that can be found by searching for  CR-10 . That should make keeping it in tram a lot easier .



The instructions are not worth much.   It is good that there are many YouTube videos for this printer.

MyFordBoy has a dial indicator support for the CR10 printer.    I printed this.    I had to drill out the hole for the indicator shaft since my indicators seem to have slightly larger shaft diameter than his, but this was easy.

Dial indicator for CR10

The springs on the adjustment screws are easy to push, so using the paper level method will give inconsistent results.    The dial indicator will not push the screws much.   I found just touching the screw knob would move the bed, so need a light touch.

If your SD card is like mine, the Cura software file is corrupt.    I downloaded from the latest beta version from the parent, Ultimaker site, but this would not work due to a Microsoft dll being missing for Visual Studio.   I could not get the dll since it is part of an upgrade and I need who knows how many other upgrades before this would work.

I went to the Slic3r site and downloaded Slic3r which I am now using.   Works well.   It does not show the estimated print time.

Slic3r site

I also downloaded IdeaMaker but I was not able to tweak the settings to get some prints to work.

I have found the slicer software settings make a BIG difference to the print, and to the time required to print.   There will be some learning curve with any slicer software.

If you want to get estimated print time when using Slic3r, drag and drop the STL file into this site.

GCode site


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## Dave Paine

Some of my first prints in case this helps others.

I read about using blue masking tape on the glass to help the print stick to the bed while printing.   This is a cheap roll of blue masking tape from a flea market.

This was an initial print with very few tweaks in the Slic3r software.




It did stick, too well.   I had a difficult time getting this off the bed.   I later read I should have used some denatured alcohol to dissolve the adhesive under the tape.

I then switched to 3M brand blue painters tape.   This has much better adhesive.   Sticks to the glass for printing but easy to remove afterwards.

Second attempt on the left, first attempt on the right.   Some of the cheap tape fused to the bottom.

The tan/orange marks on the left are from the 3M printing on the tape.   I now wipe the tape to remove the print on the tape.




A toolholder for a dial indicator for my AXA QCTP.    First attempt on the right.   The bottom warped during printing.

After some reading I tweaked the slicing software.   I now add a skirt to help hold the print to the bed.   This also helps when the nozzle first begins a print.   Often some stringy pieces.   These are then in the skirt and not the print.




You may need to have the slicing software generate support material for the gear surfaces.

The filament tends to sag on horizontal runs.   This happened in the dial indicator holder for the CR-10.    I did not click on the generate support material option so the horizontal part which holds the indicator has some separation.   Still works for my needs, but if I did this again I would include support material.

If I were making the change gears, I would not want the risk of the body of the gear not being solid.


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## ttabbal

Running a printer is a bit of an art... 

For the skirt/brim, some slicers have an option to offset it from the part, so you print an outline a few mm away from the part to prime the nozzle and such. Unless you need the extra adhesion to the bed, it is a nice option to use. Makes cleanup on the parts go a bit faster. 

For most things, 20% infill is plenty. For gears and such, do 100%, but make sure your extrusion rate is calibrated properly or you get weird artifacts and off size prints. 

Overhangs over about 45 degrees need support. 

You need it to stick, but not too much.. Level the bed and adjust the starting height properly. 

For most materials, a PEI sheet is a really good option. I bought mine from these guys. http://catalog.cshyde.com/viewitems/3d-printing-materials/ultem-pei  I went with a 20mil. If you need a size not listed, email them. They can make custom sizes. I like it far better than tape, hairspray, etc.. 

The settings in your slicer program are a bit of a rabbit hole. You can tinker almost endlessly with them to dial in settings. Don't go too nuts, unless you're making a lot of the same part. 

I like this test part when setting up a new filament ... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1023717  It prints fast, but tests a lot of little things. Then I use pliers and bend them to test inter-layer bonds. If it falls apart all along layer lines, increase print temp. Helps to make sure you get a good solid print. Even changing colors, this can make a difference. 

Handy lathe print for AXA toolposts.. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1396510

Hope some of it helps.


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## strantor

Around 2013 I had the idea to print a gear for my leadscrew so that I could cut a specific metric thread. Worked out the math given my QC gearbox ratios in each position to find a position where I could get the pitch by making a single new gear of reasonable dimensions. I did not want to print a set of change gears; I just wanted to cut a single metric pitch, one time.

So I used sketchup with the involute gear plugin, punched in # of teeth, and boom. Done. Printed in Taulman Nylon645. It worked great, and I've actually used it several more times over the years and it's still holding up.

I would be cautious though, about printing an entire geartrain. Especially out of nylon, since it has some give. It might be enough give that the cumulative error (flex) of the gears would cause problems if threading.


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## FarmDad

Ran off a few things for the household by just opening them in cura and saving the file to the sd .  Some things printed great , others just made a rats nest  with no bed adhesion at all starting and then minimal a few circles of the head in . Bed is trammed and some files print nicely so I am sure it is something i am missing in cura .  Its going to be a learning curve on this thing  for sure .


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## Firestopper

This new machine came with a plastic/nylon sacrificial  safety gear. It's a 1640 TE with 5 hp motor so solid plastic is a good choice.


Paco


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## Wxm88

I am leaning towards the Creality CR-10s. It is about $600 at Amazon. Before ordering one, any suggestion or regrets for those who have using it?


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## Dave Paine

Wxm88 said:


> I am leaning towards the Creality CR-10s. It is about $600 at Amazon. Before ordering one, any suggestion or regrets for those who have using it?



I have been using my Creality CR-10S for less than 2 weeks, but having a lot of fun.  No regrets on this purchase.

As mentioned in earlier posts, easy to assemble, but the instructions are not of much use.   YouTube videos are more useful.

The printer comes with everything to begin 3D printing, including a small roll of white PLA.    I would get some other rolls of decent brands of PLA in whatever colours you prefer.   Look for the good reviews on Amazon.

The Cura software on my SD card was corrupt so I downloaded Slic3r which I am now using.  A lot of settings to tweak in any slicing software to improve print quality.   I am using a Skirt to assist in preventing warping.  This breaks off easily.

I am having good results with 3M blue "Walls and Floors" painters tape.   My prints adhere to the tape but the tape can be easily removed from both the glass and the print.


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## AtlasSphere

Great thread - following with interest


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## Dave Paine

For those purchasing or considering purchasing the CR10 or CR10S to print change gears and other useful items, some of my experience for my first couple of weeks using the printer.

You will need to tramm the print head with a feeler gauge or piece of paper initially, but eventually a dial indicator holder for the printer head is recommended to be printed to allow using dial indicator for easier and more consistent tramming.

The springs under the bed are not strong so it is easy to flex the springs when using feeler gauge, heck even just touching the knobs when using a dial indicator needs a light touch.

I cannot find the Thingiverse page.   I saved the STL file but not the link.   Another Thingiverse link which should work.

CR10 dial indicator holder

I recommend the filament guide, especially for CR-10S users since the filament sensor is not screwed in place, only slide over a bracket.   The guide takes the strain of the filament and relieves the strain on the filament sensor.
Filament guide

The extruder does not have a knob to push the filament when needed, or to pull when wanting to remove filament from the hot end.     Easier to pull the filament than to push, but a knob is better for both.   Creality should have included a knob.   At least easy to print this one.
Filament knob

It is useful to make test prints to tweak the slicer software.   This test print will allow tweaking bridging (printing non-supported horizontal surfaces) and to tweak retraction settings to minimize stringing.  This takes about 20mins to print on my CR10S so easy to print, take a look, tweak the slicing software and reprint.

Bridge test


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## clif

Dave Paine said:


> I cannot find the Thingiverse page.



Use the *Yeggi *website and search for dial indicator,

it will show up, along with many other neat items.

I like yeggi because it searches all the 3d websites not just thingiverse.


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## Dave Paine

Thanks for the reminder.   I may have found it from Yeggi.  It is a useful site to find 3D items.


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## coherent

I've owned a 3d printer for quite a while now and not long after I bought it I went ahead and purchased Simplify3d. Great slicer software. Immediately saw a big improvement in print quality and the ability to tweak just about anything very simply is nice. In fact,  I'm printing out some DIN rail cable management clips right now. Once you have one you realize how handy it is to print simple custom  "thingies" when needed.


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## Wxm88

So what is the dimension when setup. I have very limited space in my garage,.


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## Dave Paine

Wxm88 said:


> So what is the dimension when setup. I have very limited space in my garage,.



If you mean the Creality CR10S, my footprint is about 30in w x 24in deep.

If you needed less width you could make a stand for the base with the power supply underneath and get the width down to 20+ in.   You would need to mount the filament somewhere.   I have seen spool holders which mount on the top of the frame.   I would prefer not to mount in this location, the weight may magnify the vibration.


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## ericc

I just tried some PLA gears for my South Bend that were printed at the library.  One was printed at 100% fill and the other at 20% fill.  Both worked fine.  I glued a washer to the one with lower fill, since although the teeth were strong, the body of the gear was flexing under slight pressure.  I was able to cut an 8tpi thread, even with the bit catching and the belt slipping.  The gears look fine.  The torque was high enough so I couldn't turn the chuck by hand.


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## jdeitch

ttabbal said:


> If you would rather not buy a printer, I could print a couple gears for people. But don't let that stop you from getting one, they are great tools to have around.
> 
> If you want me to print things, you need to be able to supply STLs. I don't have time to do gear designs from scratch.


I would gladly pay you to print me one each 64 & 32 tooth gears at 100% fill so that I could cut my feed rate in half.  Please let me know.  Thanks!


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## ttabbal

jdeitch said:


> I would gladly pay you to print me one each 64 & 32 tooth gears at 100% fill so that I could cut my feed rate in half.  Please let me know.  Thanks!



For Atlas 10? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:143893/#files

If those are the ones you want, yes, I can print them.


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## jdeitch

ttabbal said:


> For Atlas 10? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:143893/#files
> 
> If those are the ones you want, yes, I can print them.



Yes, assuming the Atlas 10 & 12 use the same gears. I will attempt to confirm fitment.


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## FarmDad

Just as a FYI  I printed off a few gears  for the atlas 10  and the center hole came out a smidge small . Was easy enough to fit but they were not quite perfect in that demention .  Outer size and tooth pitch looked perfect though when held up to what they are replacing .  Could be something I did wrong in the slicer program but I thought I would throw it out  here . Specifically it was the 40 tooth double key and the compound gears .


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## wa5cab

FWIW, there are two of all of the change gears except for the 96T.  For the 10" up through 10D (10E has no gears but if you add them, you have a 10D), both the face width and the hub width are 3/8".  The same gears are used on 101.07360 through 101.07401.  The part numbers are 9-101-20 through 9-101-96, where the last two digits are the tooth count. 

On the 10F (including the QC models) and on 101.07362 on, the face width is still 3/8" but the hub width is increased to 1/2".  And the part numbers are 9-101-20A through 9-101-64A (there is no 96T gear).  The latter gears were used in all subsequent production up through 1981.  

Bushings and studs follow the same convention.  The shorter ones have no suffix letter and the longer ones have suffix "A".

On the other subject (cutting the feed rate in half), the 48T and 24T will do the same thing, are a better fit and should cost less maybe.


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