# Weslo Treadmill Motor



## OrangeAlpine (Jan 13, 2013)

Got one with power supply.  A hefty, 1000 watt brute with permantent magnet.  Model 030006.  The person I got it from said it stopped working, so I have no idea of the condition.  

First things first, it rotates very smoothly and quietly in one direction.  Reverse rotation seems smooth, but has a strange noise.  A light clicking sound.  The data plate says nothing about rotation.  I'm wanting it for lathe use, so reverse rotation is a must.  Is a reversible motor?

Bill


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## OrangeAlpine (Jan 13, 2013)

Have learned a few things.  The strange sound is one of the brushes, so I'm going to assume it is trivial.

The motor stopped running because a brush lead came unsoldered.   It now runs on 12v. DC.  Now to wire up the controller.

The motor and controller came with enough wire and leads identifed that the only issue (I think) is the pot, which is MIA.  There are six board terminals, two 110 (L1-L2), two DC (A- and A+), and two two marked SW.  The L2 lead has a pigtail.   Would it make sense that the L2 pigtail connects to the center terminal on the pot and the other two pot terminals go to SW?  Just a WAG on my part, but seems logical.  I will have to buy a pot, any suggestions?  Will prolly have to get it at Radio Shack.

Bill


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## Chucketn (Jan 13, 2013)

Bill, 

Can you post a picture of the controller? The pot connections are usually labled H, W, and L. H for High, W for wiper, and L for Low. A 5K linear taper pot should do the job.

Chuck


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## OrangeAlpine (Jan 13, 2013)

Sure.




Bill


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## Chucketn (Jan 14, 2013)

Bill, I think I have a controller like that from a treadmill I got off of Freecycle. I'll dig it out and see if I can remember how the pot connected to it.

Chuck


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## OrangeAlpine (Jan 14, 2013)

Thanks Chuck.  Need to mention that I noticed three other terminals, P1,P2, and P3, located at the bottom of the photo.

Bill


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## Pacer (Jan 14, 2013)

The 'L' terminals are for the 110v conx - only! I dont know off hand what the CW terms are for. The 'P' terms are almost certainly for the pot conx, and a Radio Shack pot will do nicely. The ''A' terms are for the motor, if it runs in reverse, switch them.


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## OrangeAlpine (Jan 14, 2013)

Thanks Pacer.  Pot 1, Pot 2, Pot 3. A real Duh! moment.  Sometimes it helps to just stop and think.

Bill


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## Chucketn (Jan 14, 2013)

Bill, pot 2 will be the wiper. Do you know how to wire a DPDT switch to reverse the motor? If not, I have a diagram.
Do you still need me to dig out my board?

Chuck


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## OrangeAlpine (Jan 14, 2013)

Thanks Chuck, I think I'm good to go.  

I'm going to replace the motor on my lathe, a 12" Enco.  It currently is wired for 220 with apron start-stop-reverse.  Any idea how to incorporate that into the new setup?  I haven't dug into it yet, so have no idea of the feasibility.

Bill


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## Chucketn (Jan 14, 2013)

Bill,
I have no Idea what the switch configuration is on your machine. To make a reversing switch for a DC motor, you need a DPDT switch, or a Double Pole, Double Throw Switch. This switch will have 6 terminals 3 for one pole, 3 for the other. The center of each pair of 3 is the input. One set of the outer contacts are the output. The outer contacts are wired in a x to reverse polarity of the input. I have attached a couple of pictures to help explain.

If the reverse switch on your machine works like these, you can use it. If not, just add the DPDT.
Any questions, just ask.

Chuck


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## OrangeAlpine (Jan 14, 2013)

The motor does not run with the wiring setup discussed so far.  Makes no difference how I cycle the ON-OFF switch and pot.  No go.  So I checked the SW terminals.  There is either 114v. DC or 242V. AC present.  What are the chances "SW" stands for "Switch"?  That would make two switches and one pot in the circuit.  Safety switch, so I can just jumper it??

Bill


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## OrangeAlpine (Jan 15, 2013)

I decided to risk letting out the magic smoke and switched across the "SW" terminals.  Nada.  Here is where things stand:

Tested continuity of the AC power cord, okay.
Tested continuity of "SW" switch, okay.
Tested pot, 0-5,000 across center tap lead and each end tap lead.  Center tap hooked to P2 on the board.
Motor will run on 12v.

Ideas?

Bill


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## OrangeAlpine (Jan 16, 2013)

Removed the PCB from the aluminum mounting plate and gave it a pretty good examination.  Whatever happened, it was was a quiet death.  No signs of overheating or mechanical damage.  That treadmill lead a pretty easy life, I'm guessing the board design has a weakness.  RIP

Bill


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## OrangeAlpine (Jan 17, 2013)

Found a relay on the circuit board, it had a lot of resistance across the contacts, so I replaced it with a jumper.  No effect.  I decided to play with the pot wiring.  The stupid thing will work in ANY configuration as long as the wiper does not go to P2!  Figure that one out.  But all is not well.  The motor seems to get a blast of DC that continues until it gets up to speed, then it coasts.  The controller governs speed by shooting DC to it.  Results in very uneven speed control.  I'm going to reinstall the relay and see what effect that has.  This treadmill belonged to my Father and he complained that it was very uneven at low speeds, sometimes coming to a stop.  He changed motor pulleys, running the motor faster, which helped.  So I don't have very high hopes for this controller.  I think it is mostly a POS design.

Bill


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## OrangeAlpine (Jan 17, 2013)

The relay helped.  RPM variations dropped, but were still not acceptable.  So I swapped the P1-P2 leads.  The rpm's become more stable, but still had on-off type of control.  Further lead swapping gave a combination that yielded a steady speed.  But when a load was applied, the on-off control reappeared after a few seconds.    

Looks like junk to me.

Bill


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## Tony Wells (Jan 17, 2013)

Most treadmill installations I have seen use some sort of feedback to provide a tachometer signal that governs the motor speed. If that is lost, a variation or runaway will occur in the motor speed.


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 30, 2015)

Question, For your D/C motor set ups, for you DPDT switches for reverse, are you guys just using a regular DPDT switch say from radio shack, 
rated at around 20 Amps at 120V,  or are you using some type of heavy duty D/C rated DPDT switch?
and if using about a 20 amp @ 120 Volt switch, are they holding up OK?
I am turning off My power before changing direction. 
thanks,


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## jumps4 (Mar 30, 2015)

On a similar project I purchased these switches to turn off power when reversing the motor
Steve


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 30, 2015)

jumps4 said:


> On a similar project I purchased these switches to turn off power when reversing the motor
> Steve
> View attachment 98628


Turns off power in center position?
I got one from Radio shack, 
It is this one here.                        http://www.radioshack.com/dpdt-20-amp-flip-switch/2750710.html#.VRlyX-FTmSo
I am turning off power before changing direction.


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## great white (Mar 30, 2015)

mrbreezeet1 said:


> Turns off power in center position?
> I got one from Radio shack,
> It is this one here.                        http://www.radioshack.com/dpdt-20-amp-flip-switch/2750710.html#.VRlyX-FTmSo
> I am turning off power before changing direction.


It should in center position. Its how they are made. Ie: on/off/on


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 30, 2015)

Yes, It will stop the motor in the center position.
I guess my thing is, is the switch heavy enough, as I read switches are not rated the same for DC as they are for AC. 
(The radio Shack switch is said to be "Rated 20 amps at 12VDC"
(http://www.radioshack.com/dpdt-20-amp-flip-switch/2750710.html#.VRlyX-FTmSo)
Also was thinking of getting a few of these switches. Wondering if there heavy enough?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291254787833?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Also, there is this one, already has the X jumpers built into it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160140769301?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

And, also, I am not using the inhibit terminals of my board, (KBIC-120)
So I am wondering if it is safe to switch my reverse switch while the power switch (in series with L1) is on, or if I do need to turn my power off,
Or is it enough to just dial my speed Pot down to Zero, reverse my direction, then dial back up to speed?
I know some guys here are saying they "reverse on the fly" But the manual (KBIC) has a warning about this.


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