# South Bend 9 C Lathe Restoration



## LX Kid

Did a trade for this South Bend 9 C, "I think", lathe.  It's still riding around with me in the back of my covered truck until I can find a spot for it to rest.  LoL  Looks to be in pretty good shape but is missing the change gears and the small pulley on the motor, which is a GE 1/2 hp with 1/2" shaft.  Trying to find a proper flat belt pulley but have only seen 5/8" bore pulleys.  If I can't find something to fit I'll bore the pulley out and press a bussing in.  I've started a tear down of the motor and the counter shaft assembly for cleaning and painting.  Might be restoration sacrilege but I'm thinking of painting it blue to match my circa 1935 drill press as pictured.


----------



## LX Kid

Is it possible to add a quick change gear box to a 9 C lathe?  So many newbie questions coming!    Right now there is no power switch. I'm going to gut the switch box and put a rotary on/off switch unless I stumble over an affordable reversible 120v motor for cheap.


----------



## FOMOGO

Not a SB owner, but I imagine a QC gearbox could be added. Just a matter of finding one on E-bay, etc.. Color, paint it any color you like, It's your machine. Personally, I like blue. Cheers, Mike


----------



## MontanaLon

The pulley from the motor to the countershaft is actually a 5/8" V belt. It runs fine without the flange on the countershaft pulley if the adjustment is correct. 

That should make a replacement easy to find.

Yes you can add a QCGB but you need to replace the lead screw as well as it will need to be shorter than the current one. Cutting the existing one down from the tailstock end won't really work as it pushes the threaded portion way out in the middle of the bed where you won't be using it much. Up close to the spindle you won't be able to use it at all. If you want to cut it down cut it from the headstock end and then recreate the keyway on the shaft to hold the gear that drives it.


----------



## Latinrascalrg1

Are you sure the current motor isn't reversible?  Just because it wasnt wired to run with a reverse option as it currently sits does not mean you couldn't rewire it to run both direction at the flip of a switch or 2 depending on how you choose to go about wiring things up!


----------



## LX Kid

Ground and line voltage only!   It's a newer long shaft GE motor someone had put on it.  The motor shaft is 1/2" and not the original 5/8" motor shaft.  Maybe MontanaLon is telling me the width of the V belt versus the shaft diameter.

UPDATE 12/22/19:  I ordered a 1/2" V-pulley, should have got the 5/8", but am concerned about the curvature of the counter shaft as they are not flat.  The belt might keep running off.  If I could find a V-grooved counter-shaft drive pulley would be great.  Probably be cost prohibitive for this project though.


----------



## Latinrascalrg1

Is this info based on what you see as it sits or did you go inside to see whats what?  My intent is to try to help you possibly save a small bit of cash, im not trying to TELL you anything about anything Im ASKING to try and help!

Im asking again just to be sure for the simple fact that it is possible to reverse rotation on "Most" electric motors, or at least most of what ive come across in my limited lifetime experience!  Now if you ask, "if you SHOULD use your time and go through the trouble Knowing that the  Negative outcomes that are a POSSIBILITY are not exactly a PROBABILITY" as it would make this project a whole nother scenario to consider! 
If its a motor that uses a set of "Brushes" you are better off buying a new motor because of the way the brushes seat themselves in with the rotor contact surface. Running this motor in the opposite direction to which the Brushes were originally seated makes the motor more susceptible to damage that will Most Probably eventually let out that all powerful yet mysteriously Magical Smoke out


----------



## LX Kid

Sounds like the QCGB is something not in my lathes future!  I guess I should quit asking soo many question or this thread will get too long and no one will want to read and follow it.  I disassembled the motor, cleaned the aluminum ends and painted the case gloss grey.  Paint takes 5-9 hours to cure so I won't be able to reassemble it till tomorrow.


----------



## SLK001

LX Kid said:


> Is it possible to add a quick change gear box to a 9 C lathe?  So many newbie questions coming!    Right now there is no power switch. I'm going to gut the switch box and put a rotary on/off switch unless I stumble over an affordable reversible 120v motor for cheap.



Not so easy.  You would need the gear box, the correct length lead screw and apron as a minimum.  The 9C moves along by engaging the half nut.  Lathes with a QCGB move along by engaging a clutch on the apron, which is propelled by a spline that rides in the groove on the lead screw.  The 9C lead screw doesn't have the groove.


----------



## LX Kid

I appreciate all the help and suggestions given by all.  Brushless motor.  Here's couple of pics.  So can this be wired for forward and reverse?  3 & 6 were jumpered.  Is that why the jumper to use only one direction?  Is connecting red and black wires one direction and yellow and black the other direction?

Starting to like the Gloss Grey over the blue for this lathe.  Pics for comparison.


----------



## LX Kid

Why won't this darn thing come apart????   What am I missing in disassembly?   Removed all the gib screws and gib!   Seemed to me that it ought to just unscrew off!  On my Grizzly lathe all needs to be done is keep turning adjustment handle and it comes right off. "No one said I had to be smart, just willing!"   Hope that I can get the saddle and compound-slide apart, degreased and painted tomorrow.  "But wouldn't you just know that it's 60% chance of rain and I have to work on it outdoors."

I also re-assembled the motor after painting it yesterday.   Looks and runs good.

Spent all day removing assemblies from the lathe so I would be able to get the lathe out of my truck.   Did a lot of cleaning and degreasing to ready parts for painting.   Hopefully tomorrow I'll degrease and paint the lathe bed.

UPDATE:  Just saw a YouBoob video and it shows a spanner nut on the end.  To me I thought it was a part of the casting.  I'll give it another try tomorrow.  (It's raining!  Drat!)


----------



## Latinrascalrg1

I cant say for sure based on the pics you posted but Yes I Do believe that you are correct with the different wire combinations running in different directions.  Was that drum switch wired in and do you have the rest of the pieces to put it together?


----------



## LX Kid

As I mentioned above I've already re-assembled the motor and it runs fine.  Question is can it be reverse wired thru the switch so it turns counterclockwise?


----------



## Surprman

Have fun with the rebuild!  Don’t worry about what others might think about the paint color - use a good quality industrial paint of whatever color you like (it will not devalue the machine - in 50 years if  you are done with it, the next owner can strip and repaint as needed!  I painted mine two shades of light green and the only person whose opinion matters (me) thinks it looks great.  Also - while I’m sure the QCGB would be nice if you are doing production work, changing the gears is not that big of a deal for a hobbyist. Go on eBay and buy the full gear set for your future turning/threading needs (also buy the spare two gears to mate together to enable you to (very closely) approximate metric threads.

You will love that lathe when it is finished!

Rick


----------



## LX Kid

I'm really liking the color of the battleship grey lathe vs. the blue or light grey paint that I already have.  Gonna use a rattle can for painting so it has to come in an available color.   Here's also a pic of two test colors I painted.


----------



## DavidR8

Not that votes matter (because it’s your lathe) but I’d go grey over the blue. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LX Kid

Yes I think the blue is a little "blinding" and and am leaning towards the darker grey as in the first pic.  The lighter grey in the second pic would show a lot of dirt, grease etc.

I didn't realize that the counter shaft assembly, before I bought it, was not attached to the main lathe as a single unit.  Don't know how or where I'm going to set this up in my small 10'x15' shop.  I had planned on putting it on a roll around cart but how to install the counter shaft assembly is going to be a problem.  ( Kinda like buying a big boat and having no yard to park it in!  LoL )  Having a smaller DC motor I could move the CS-assembly closer to the lathe.  Pictured is an example of what I'm talking about.


----------



## LX Kid

I'm having a heck of a time trying to get the cross-slide screw lock nut off.  I think it takes a spanner wrench, which I don't have, and have tried vice grips to no avail.  Letting it sit in PB Blaster in the tread/oil hole.  Short of using a torch anyone have any "tricks" for me to try?

Found a change gear set on eBay yesterday so I jumped on it for $119 shipped.  I also ordered a dial gage install kit for $37 shipped.


----------



## LX Kid

Had a good day working on the lathe.  Got everything cleaned and painted except the headstock and saddle assembly.  The lathe bed was a nightmare!!!!  80 years of grease and muck.   Now to go on and do the tricky work on the saddle and headstock.  Decided just to go with the grey with black legs.


----------



## francist

Looking forward to seeing it back together. I can’t say I’ve ever seen one with the feet in a different colour before. At least not by design, anyway. Looking good so far.

-frank


----------



## SLK001

LX Kid said:


> Had a good day working on the lathe.  Got everything cleaned and painted except the headstock and saddle assembly.  The lathe bed was a nightmare!!!!  80 years of grease and muck.   Now to go on and do the tricky work on the saddle and headstock.  Decided just to go with the grey with black legs.



Tell me you didn't just paint around the labels.  The screw pins are just driven in - there are holes in the back where you can drive them out.


----------



## LX Kid

SLK001 said:


> Tell me you didn't just paint around the labels.  The screw pins are just driven in - there are holes in the back where you can drive them out.


Ok I won't tell you that.   Just looked and your correct!  There are little holes in the back to drive them out.  I won't tell if you don't.  LoL  Tomorrow I'll attack the compound-slide again to see if I can get that darn screw lock-nut off so I can remove the compound off the cross-slide.  Then I'm sure I'll have the same problem with the cross-slide screw lock-nut.

I may wind up machining a flat pulley if the v-pulley doesn't work out if the belt runs off the flat counter-shaft pulley.  I can't find a flat pulley that has a 1/2" shaft bore.  They all seem to be 5/8".


----------



## LX Kid

Here's a pic of my shop 3-In-one Chinese lathe.  I've had it for about five years and really runs well after getting all the casting sand and tramming it.  Guess I could try putting a smaller pulley on the drive motor but then I guess that's another post in the Asian Forum.  I'll save that for another day.  Now your probably wondering why I'm doing this South Bend restoration.  I guess it was just something to do when your retired and needing a project.   No, I don't have anywhere to put it when I'm done.   Maybe in the den!  LoL


----------



## Chuck K

LX Kid said:


> I'm having a heck of a time trying to get the cross-slide screw lock nut off.  I think it takes a spanner wrench, which I don't have, and have tried vice grips to no avail.  Letting it sit in PB Blaster in the tread/oil hole.  Short of using a torch anyone have any "tricks" for me to try?
> 
> You could always do it the way everybody else seems to do it.  Get a hammer and punch and break it loose with a sharp whack.  That will of course ruin the hole that the spanner should fit in.  You can mill it to clean it up....or you can buy a spanner and remove it correctly.


----------



## LX Kid

I used, Chuck K's, suggested hammer whack and it did come loose.  83 years of grit and grime in the threads!  This morning I disassembled the saddle and cross-slide and who would of known how many pieces there were.  I hope someone was watching the way this thing came apart!  LoL  I "was" going to paint everything but it started sprinkling and temp dropped so maybe tomorrow.  The two pins that hold the compound in were seized up with grime and wouldn't budge but persistence and PB Blaster prevailed.


----------



## Surprman

Didn’t catch this in your earlier posts, but don’t worry about the V belt slipping off.  I have been using the same (original to me) V-belt pulley on the motor since I restored it.  The flat, narrow, inner section of the V-belt rides just fine on the flat countershaft pulley.  I’ve never had mine shift, much less fall off.
Rick


----------



## Surprman

.... also, while you are buying stuff on eBay, pick up the 4 oil set for sale.  They will last a long time and it is worth having it ready as soon as you are ready to start  making chips.  (Later in you will need to buy the “C” oil in bulk to refill the bottle since you use that oil for most areas.)


----------



## LX Kid

Started putting the bed together with everything that is finished so I don't have parts laying around everywhere.   This is the begining of South Bend's "Blackfoot Work Shop" 9 C lathe.  The hand wheels, counter-shaft drive pulley and clamp nut handle are going to be black as well as the feet.  After painting the saddle and compound slide I'll let it dry 24 hours for paint to harden and then assemble.  In the mean time I'll start working on the head stock assembly.  Can't believe almost all the oil holes were plugged up but I guess this lathe hasn't been used in a "loooong" time!


----------



## brino

It's looking very good!

How do the half-nuts look close-up?

-brino


----------



## LX Kid

brino said:


> It's looking very good!
> 
> How do the half-nuts look close-up?
> 
> -brino


They really look hardly worn, to me, but I'm no expert.  They were full of hard gunk and dirt as well as the lead screw.  Do they look worn to you or are they ok?   Tonight I just couldn't wait to get the parts primed and painted so I did.  Now I'll be able to reassemble the saddle and the compound in the morning.


----------



## brino

LX Kid said:


> Do they look worn to you or are they ok?



They look great from here!
-brino

btw, I really like that grey paint!


----------



## MontanaLon

They look to be in fantastic shape. Being full of crud likely means they were kept oiled while it was in use.


----------



## LX Kid

MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!


----------



## LX Kid

This evening I was putting the compound slide back together and noticed the only way it could fit is with the degrees pointing toward the rear of the lathe.  "Is this correct?"  I spent two hours trying it forwards and backwards and it will only fit one way!  Can post a pic in a little bit if this doesn't make sense.


----------



## SLK001

The compound slide should be able to rotate 360º.  If it can't, you're doing something wrong.  Look at the shoes that fit into the dovetail.


----------



## LX Kid

SLK001 said:


> The compound slide should be able to rotate 360º.  If it can't, you're doing something wrong.  Look at the shoes that fit into the dovetail.


Yes it does rotaye 360 but the degree marks ate at the rear of the compound.


----------



## brino

LX Kid said:


> This evening I was putting the compound slide back together and noticed the only way it could fit is with the degrees pointing toward the rear of the lathe. "Is this correct?" I spent two hours trying it forwards and backwards and it will only fit one way! Can post a pic in a little bit if this doesn't make sense.



Yes that is correct.
Here's how mine looks, Southbend 9" ~1939 model 309-R with taper attachment.

Front:



Back:



-brino


----------



## LX Kid

Thanks Brino!  Well I'm down to the last piece of the equipment.  The head stock.  I just finished tearing it down and will clean, degrease and paint tomorrow.   I will then make a 3/4" plywood top to put on my roll around cart as seen in one of my earlier pics.  Getting close to plugging this sucker in and making some useless chips!  LoL
     Could you share a couple pics of your taper attachment?   I'd like to have one but they have been running $400-$600 as what I have observed on the internet.  Right now that's just not do-able.


----------



## LX Kid

Depending on how this South Bend machines, I may decide to keep it and sell my Grizzly G9729 3-in-one lathe.  I've never even used the mill/drill on it as I have a Grizzly 1hp mill that I use.  I just don't have the space for two lathes.  This SB will have to sit on the back patio until I decide to keep or sell.  The SB would be more practical for me even though it's a smaller swing.  I have ordered a change gear set and should be here next week as well as a live center for the tailstock.


----------



## SLK001

LX Kid said:


> Yes it does rotaye 360 but the degree marks ate at the rear of the compound.



That's where they always have been.


----------



## SLK001

Also, that area where the 0 index mark is stamped should not be painted.  It is a precision surface.


----------



## LX Kid

SLK001 said:


> Also, that area where the 0 index mark is stamped should not be painted.  It is a precision surface.


Good point.  I'll clean the paint off.  Thanks


----------



## graham-xrf

The usual single phase induction motor uses a special sort of AC capacitor to make the artificial "live" for the other winding. Reversal is by swapping which gets the real live with which gets the supply via capacitor.

Are you fully OK with the motor type, how to connect for reverse, full torque, inbuilt centrifugal spring switches, earth connection safety via your house RCD (Residual Current Device), etc?

I only say this because it has to be right, especially if it was previously powered by generator, and grounded one end of the supply. You do not expect that the ground is connected to anything other than the metal frame, and that the power wires do not share that ground.

You want that in the case of loose swarf or chips contamination into the motor, or even stray wetness, or any kind of earth leakage or burnup, the house RCD will detect the leak, trip out - and save your life!


----------



## LX Kid

Got a little problem.  I've got everything ready for headstock re-assembly "but" in the bottom of my cleaning pan I found two little tiny brass pieces that I don't know where they fell out of.  Does anyone know where they go????


----------



## MontanaLon

One on left looks like shoe to back gear adjustment screw.


----------



## LX Kid

MontanaLon said:


> One on left looks like shoe to back gear adjustment screw.


Uhhh, where exactly would the gear adjustment  be located??  I just layed the headstock on the lays for the picture.  Still some more gears and parts to install.


----------



## SLK001

He means the BACK GEARS.  Those are the gears that engage using the handle behind the flat belt pulleys.


----------



## MontanaLon

LX Kid said:


> Uhhh, where exactly would the gear adjustment  be located??  I just layed the headstock on the lays for the picture.


At the little gear end of back gear shaft. It goes under the screw that goes through part of headstock the back gear shaft rides in.


----------



## LX Kid

MontanaLon said:


> At the little gear end of back gear shaft. It goes under the screw that goes through part of headstock the back gear shaft rides in.


 I think I know where you mean.  There is a special tapered set screw in there now that engages into the handle so it doesn't throw too far.  I'll take a pic of it tomorrow.  How about that other tiny brass piece?  Could it be it fits under the set screw of the compound degree retaining set screw?


----------



## LX Kid

graham-xrf said:


> The usual single phase induction motor uses a special sort of AC capacitor to make the artificial "live" for the other winding. Reversal is by swapping which gets the real live with which gets the supply via capacitor.
> 
> Are you fully OK with the motor type, how to connect for reverse, full torque, inbuilt centrifugal spring switches, earth connection safety via your house RCD (Residual Current Device), etc?
> 
> I only say this because it has to be right, especially if it was previously powered by generator, and grounded one end of the supply. You do not expect that the ground is connected to anything other than the metal frame, and that the power wires do not share that ground.
> 
> You want that in the case of loose swarf or chips contamination into the motor, or even stray wetness, or any kind of earth leakage or burnup, the house RCD will detect the leak, trip out - and save your life!



Pretty sure Blk & Red is one direction and Blk and Yel the other direction.  I'm going to gut the switch assembly can and put a double pole double throw toggle switch in it's place.


----------



## graham-xrf

LX Kid said:


> Pretty sure Blk & Red is one direction and Blk and Yel the other direction.  I'm going to gut the switch assembly can and put a double pole double throw toggle switch in it's place.


 A switch for a lathe electric motor is not like a switch for a light bulb, or hair drier.
There is a reason the original switch (picture 20191220_160737) is built like it is.
The square-rod cam switch with robust terminals is what it takes to survive the attempts to switch on AND, off, with the switch _off_ action being the more difficult for the switch.

I did not really want to get so expansive, but I think we need to say this stuff. You cannot be casual about the switching!

*What really happens*
When the motor is running, it is also generating it's own voltage in opposition to the mains supply connected to it, and the house power supply is the winner! The motor rolls forward, and the real volts that drives it is the difference between the supply volts, and the motor-generated volts, which is also known as "back-emf". When you switch off, the back emf arc that happens as the switch contacts part can splat them into a pitted mess!

When you switch on, the motor is momentarily stalled, with no back emf being generated. The forward current surge is several times the normal current. The only thing limiting it is the (low) resistance of the copper coils, and briefly, their inductance. The inductance limits the transient current, but works against you when you switch off, as the stored (magnetic) energy comes out. In some motors, the switch-on surge can be 10x or 15x the rated current, which is why industrial-use trip-switches have grades which allow a surge for a limited number of milliseconds.

If you just switch off, you have to wait for the lathe to roll to a halt by friction, or use some kind of brake. Some switching arrangements change over from supply to resistive load, which takes a pulse of heat as it (electrically) brakes the motion. These can come to a speedy stop. Don't be tempted to switch away from power  into a short-circuit load.The sudden stop can break things! Choosing the right dump resistor can let you have the motor roll to a sweet stop.

Some motors have more centrifugal switching built into them, which takes care of the run-up, and run-down. They switch out of the way when the motor gets to a threshold speed. These can sometimes mess up attempts to use a VFD unless you knew everything about your motor from the beginning.

A traditional way, (other than using mighty contacts), is to use a small relay contactor, which is built to take it, and to go further, using a two push-button scheme for a latching relay stop-start, with the stop pushbutton in series with a big red emergency stop knob. Ready-wired versions of these are easy to find on eBay, Amazon, etc..

*Solid State Switching*
Given the very low cost, and the effectiveness, I like to use solid-state semiconductor switching. You can get a 280Volt 40A relay for less than 10 bucks. This banishes all sparking, arcing, and they cannot wear out. With one of these, you _can_ use a light-duty switch like the one you posted the picture of. That switch would be used to operate the control input terminals of the SSR, (usually numbered 3, and 4) The main motor current goes through the output terminals (usually numbered 1, and 2). The neutral is not switched, except at the main isolator switch upstream, which you should have.
These isolators also do not cost the Earth, and a favourite style is a "rotate through 90°" type, but you can use what you like

Here --> LINK

Select with care. AC throughput uses TRIAC semiconductors, which can be controlled by either low voltage (3V to 36V DC) OR low voltage (4V to 36C AC, often 24V AC) OR by full mains voltage (like 97VAC through 280VAC). To take 1/2HP energy out of a house supply, a norm in USA is two 110V or 120V live lines with a common neutral, intended for higher energy stuff like cookers, etc.

If the motor is a 240V version, then you need to switch BOTH the lives, and be very careful, and fully knowledgeable about exactly how the motor is to be wired up. Again, I could not know sufficient details from the pictures, so I just guess. With a single phase motor, it should be easy enough.
Conveniently, you could get a SSR for a 3-phase, and just use two of the switches, ignoring the third. Don't be shy about using a 40A or 60A SSR relay for a motor that might take only 2A or 3A when running. If you do use a relay contactor, you would choose one with the right kW rating for AC motor use. Likely, even the lowest rated would be more than your lathe motor needs.

If you want to, you can use a small, low power latching relay, with "stop" and "start" buttons, so long as there is the SSR on the end if it all, doing the main current switching. You can also get kit where everything is solid state, including the latching and stop functions.

From UK - but I am sure you can find others.

Here is an isolation switch -->  LINK#2
OR           --> LINK#3
You don't use it to stop and start the lathe! You can find others, but the types with the ready-made enclosure box cost a few bucks more.

*Getting fancy*
These days you can find semiconductor controlled "soft-start" switches. My woodworking chop-saw comes with that feature built in, but you can get separate kit that does this. It gets over the violent jerk start, and the high surge current.

For a small lathe, with (say) a 1/2HP motor, you do not need mighty industrial type contactors, but I think you perhaps do need a little more than the small duty switch you proposed to use, especially compared to the one that was there originally.

Get a picture of the motor rating label. It can help. Remember that a 1400W hair drier does not need a heavy duty switch, because the heaters are resistive, They do not store magnetic energy. A 700W squirrel-cage induction motor is a different situation altogether.


----------



## LX Kid

The motor is a GE model 5KH47DR440, 8.6 Amp, 1/2 hp, 115v, Class B motor.  My new switch is 20 amp rated.   Power should be about 989 watt..  Being it has a long shaft I'm thinking it was probably for a home air/heating air handler fan.


----------



## graham-xrf

LX Kid said:


> The motor is a GE model 5KH47DR440, 8.6 Amp, 1/2 hp, 115v, Class B motor.  My new switch is 20 amp rated.   Power should be about 989 watt..  Being it has a long shaft I'm thinking it was probably for a home air/heating air handler fan.


OK - the 989 was 115 x 8.6. There should be a power factor value, also known as cos(φ), which might have a value around 0.8 or 0.85.
Mechanical motor power is Vx I x cos(φ).
A robust 20A switch should be OK, if rated for use with an AC motor, or "inductive loads"  then it will have the symbols on it. Nominally 370W to 400W is what it has to deliver without the contacts overheating, but do check. Stuff that connects to motors is not the same as stuff that connects resistive loads. The motor is switched repeatedly, and often.

I could not discover the full detail on the motor, and I have to quit now anyway. Good luck with the lathe. I have to admire the color scheme design, with black accents. Looking real smart!


----------



## LX Kid

So nobody knows for sure where these brass parts go??   Maybe the smaller one goes under the set screw on the compound?


----------



## LX Kid

Used a 3/4" x 24"x 48" plywood to put under the lathe as well as a drip pan to go under the lathe as well.  The cut-outs are to fit handle of my roll-around cart.  Used primer stain blocker and painted it semi-gloss grey.


----------



## LX Kid

LX Kid said:


> So nobody knows for sure where these brass parts go??   Maybe the smaller one goes under the set screw on the compound?


I was watching YouBoob of restoration of a 9A model and the larger brass plug goes on the bottom left, as facing from rear, of the back gear.  There is also supposed to be a spring but I didn't find one when I took it apart.


LX Kid said:


> I think I know where you mean.  There is a special tapered set screw in there now that engages into the handle so it doesn't throw too far.  I'll take a pic of it tomorrow.  How about that other tiny brass piece?  Could it be it fits under the set screw of the compound degree retaining set screw?


Thanks!  You were correct about the larger brass one going in the back gear tension adjuster.  Supposed to be a spring also but was missing.


----------



## LX Kid

Finished gutting the switch box and installing a toggle switch.  The motor runs @ 1775 rpm.   Where can I buy new threading data plates?  My change gear set came in the mail yesterday.  I don't know what that 30 tooth top gear fits but it came with the gear set.


----------



## LX Kid

Rainey days are slowing me down!  I have to work outside in mostly open space.  Pretty soon I'm  going to have to decide to either sell my Grizzly G9729 or sell the South Bend 9C.  I don't have space for both.  The Grizzly is large 31" with a mill/drill  that I never even use because I have a Grizzly milling machine.  It really works well.  It takes up a lot of room, especially overhead, in my small 10x15 shop.


----------



## LX Kid

Question about the back gear.  Are the tapered pins designed to shear off if bull gear is left engaged?  Reason I ask is because I put steel roll pins instead of the too long 2" tapered pins that someone had used.


----------



## SLK001

LX Kid said:


> Question about the back gear.  Are the tapered pins designed to shear off if bull gear is left engaged?  Reason I ask is because I put steel roll pins instead of the too long 2" tapered pins that someone had used.



No.  If the tapered pins are too long, you could always trim them off.  Roll pins would require that the hole be drilled the same size the entire length.


----------



## LX Kid

SLK001 said:


> No.  If the tapered pins are too long, you could always trim them off.  Roll pins would require that the hole be drilled the same size the entire length.


Nope.  The roll pins tapped snugly right in.  I notice the tapered pins are soft metal and I figured they would sheer off instead of damaging a gear.  The tapered pins are not proper as they only go in about half way.


----------



## LX Kid

My South Bend 9C "Blue Wheel" 1945 lathe.  All I'm waiting for is my motor drive pulley so I can align and install the motor.  I might have to order a shorter counter-shaft belt because I'm going to be a little closer to the lathe bed when motor installed.  I'm going to pull that motor mount bracket off and paint it.  I didn't notice until I saw the picture of it.


----------



## LX Kid

Today is a day of bad luck or should I bad stupidity!   Found a v-pulley, that I didn't know I had, and was trying to put it on the motor's shaft.  Well it was a little tight so I thought I would take a rubber mallet and force it on.  "Weeeeell" after beating it into submission the motor doesn't work!  So tomorrow I take the motor apart and do some field coil testing.  Being over anxious causes bad moves. "DUMBER THAN DIRT!" I probably bugard the centrifical switch.


----------



## LX Kid

I fixed the motor centrifigul switch and works as it should now.  The plastic shaft part of it was cracked.  Welded/melted it up and works just fine.  All I have to do tomorrow is wire in the switch to the motor and I should be done except for that pesky little tiny brass piece that no one knows where it belongs.

UPDATE:  1/1/20   I had to order a 2" shorter flat belt because the one I have, 50", rubs on top of the motor.


----------



## LX Kid

Wired in the motor to the switch , added on a threat counter and did a "first cut."  Really cuts nice.  Took care of some rattling noise makers. Once I get my new shorter flat belt I'll be able to tighten it.  As is it's only the counter-shaft assembly puts tension on the belt because the turn buckle is beyond it's limits to tighten the flat belt.


----------



## LX Kid

I can't figure out how to tighten the flat belt!  When lengthening the turnbuckle all it does is push the release handle forward.  Am I missing a part that will enable the release handle not to move and tighten the belt.  I made a spring apparatus to pull back on the counter-balance assembly to tighten the belt.  Before all I could cut was .005" and now with the spring I can cut .020" without belt slippage.  Gotta find a better spring but it was all I could find at the moment.


----------



## DavidR8

This is what a factory 9A horizontal drive looks like.


----------



## LX Kid

My release handle will "flop" all the way down to the back of the lathe bed!   Is there a handle stop that I might be missing?


----------



## DavidR8

What does the handle look like on yours?


----------



## LX Kid

Your pic is too dark to see what's going on.  Can you use your flash?  Here's a pic of mine and I don't see any stop.  Looks like I'll have to machine out a handle pin cause there's too much play in it.


----------



## DavidR8




----------



## LX Kid

"Maybe" I'm missing something inside the handle that is letting it flop down.   If that's the case I could drill and tap the top of the rod pivot so it not drop down.  Even at that though the handle would be pushed upward and not tighten belt.  Have to play around with it cause I really don't want the spring that I added.


----------



## LX Kid

Ohhhhhhhhhh!  I see said the blind man!!!   That makes sense!  I'll give that a try and get back with an update.  Thanks!


----------



## DavidR8

This is how the rod should be attached to the handle. 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

So that when it’s tensioned it does this.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LX Kid

Yeaaaaaaa!  I had the turnbuckle turned around the wrong way.  I switched ends and "shazam" the belt tightens like it should.  Thank you Brino very much for the help.  " No one said I had to be smart just willing!"  How much belt deflection is recommended?


----------



## DavidR8

No problem.
Apparently 1/2" of deflection near the headstock pulley is correct tension.


btw that was me helping


----------



## LX Kid

My apology sir!  Thank you so much for your help!  I've gotten a lot of help and advice here and sometimes an old fart get mixed up.  ( Most of the time.)  LoL   Thanks again for pulling my bacon out of the fire.


----------



## LX Kid

After the receipt of my new shorter flat belt, I'm thinking this restoration is a done deal!  My next project is a SB 9 A which should be here next week from Illinois.  It was the 9A model that I really wanted because of the change gearbox, the taper attachment and powered cross feed.  This 9C gave me a first time taste of what's to come as I believe the 9A is going to be a lot more challenging.  The 9A has no counter-shaft assembly and is powered by 1/2" belt pulley's attached to the motor and the spindle (looks welded to spindle).  I'll be in pretty deep on this one so I'll have to keep it. (And really want to anyway!)


----------



## DavidR8

LX Kid said:


> After the receipt of my new shorter flat belt, I'm thinking this restoration is a done deal!  My next project is a SB 9 A which should be here next week from Illinois.  It was the 9A model that I really wanted because of the change gearbox, the taper attachment and powered cross feed.  This 9C gave me a first time taste of what's to come as I believe the 9A is going to be a lot more challenging.  The 9A has no counter-shaft assembly and is powered by 1/2" belt pulley's attached to the motor and the spindle (looks welded to spindle).  I'll be in pretty deep on this one so I'll have to keep it. (And really want to anyway!)


Interesting way to drive it. Lots of additional strain on the spindle bearings not to mention the loss of spindle bore. 
Are you getting a good deal?


----------



## LX Kid

Noooo!   A fool is soon parted with his money.   $1350 shipped.   But just think of all the fun I'll have restoring it no matter how much it cost me.  If any one sees a good deal on a spindle and counter shaft assembly please let me know.   Thanks


----------



## DavidR8

LX Kid said:


> Noooo!   A fool is soon parted with his money.   $1350 shipped.   But just think of all the fun I'll have restoring it no matter how much it cost me.  If any one sees a good deal on a spindle and counter shaft assembly please let me know.   Thanks


I'm not sure if that's a good price or not.
Here's a spindle for you.





						South Bend 9 Lathe Headstock Spindle 1 1 2 x 8 TPI PRISTINE for sale | eBay
					

Find great deals on eBay for South Bend 9 Lathe Headstock Spindle 1 1 2 x 8 TPI PRISTINE. Shop with confidence.



					www.ebay.ca


----------



## SLK001

You can take your counter shaft assy from your 9C and put it on your new 9A - they should be almost identical.  Also with the spindle, depending on the year of each.  That should get it up and running as soon as possible.


----------



## LX Kid

But I have to sell the 9C to afford the 9A.  After I sell the 9C, might take a while, I'll sell my Grizzly G9729, 3-In -One lathe.  I have a stand alone mill and don't need the larger Grizzly lathe.


----------



## LX Kid

Yes, I have seen several on eBay but had better wait until the lathe arrives to see what I'm dealing with.   Suppose to be here in a week to 10 days.  It just shipped today.


----------



## LX Kid

SLK001 said:


> You can take your counter shaft assy from your 9C and put it on your new 9A - they should be almost identical.  Also with the spindle, depending on the year of each.  That should get it up and running as soon as possible.



You've got me re-thinking about parts salvaging.  I may just swap out whatever parts I need and and sell the 9C cheap or sell the individual parts from it.  Hopefully the spindles would be the same.   Instead of continuing discussion of my 9A, I'll open a new posting thread.  Thanks for the idea.


----------



## LX Kid

Done!  Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions and help.


----------



## LX Kid

Had to sell my 9C to fund my next 9A project.  Gotta say that she was a sweet running lathe.   That said I really wanted a 9A because the one I bought had a QCGB and a taper  attachment assembly.


----------



## Cheeseheadkeith

Cool resto. Just read the whole thing. Can’t wait to see your 9a. I’m working on building a table for my 9a then I’ll be doing the same


----------



## LX Kid

Cheeseheadkeith said:


> Cool resto. Just read the whole thing. Can’t wait to see your 9a. I’m working on building a table for my 9a then I’ll be doing the same


I've already completed my SB 9A.  The post can be seen at below link.  It was a nightmare because I was cheated by the seller.  But it really runs well even at the high cost of the restoration.  Lots of new parts.  I also added a quick change tool post and micrometer stop.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/south-bend-9a-restoration-happening-w-pics.81520/


----------

