# Lanolin and ??? (as rust preventer)



## Uncle Bob (Jun 26, 2018)

Some time ago I saw a thread about a very effective rust preventer made from cooking lanolin and ?????  
I think the ratio was 4:1 or 5:1.   
Anyone remember the carrier?


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## P. Waller (Jun 26, 2018)

Works for sheep.


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## derf (Jun 26, 2018)

Cooking lanolin?????


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## Chuck K (Jun 26, 2018)

Lanolin is used in "eds red".  Equal parts Kerosene, mieral spirits, acetone, atf, and some lanolin for extended rust prevention.


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## ELHEAD (Jun 26, 2018)

Anhydrous lanolin is an option for Ed's Red. ( anhydrous= without water )
Dave


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## warrjon (Jun 27, 2018)

Hi folks, this is my first post.

I live in an area that is WET in winter and everything steel in the shed rusts. I use Lanox, it's $13AUD a can and lasts a couple of years. I spray it into a tin with a rag and then wipe everything down occasionally. No more rust


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## Ropata (Jun 27, 2018)

Here in New Zealand we get it in a tub or spray can. It's derived from our massive sheep industry. I'm told that  somewhere in  Scotland there is a  350 year old iron gate that is completely rust free due to sheep rubbing up against it all the time. I dont now if this is true but what I use it for seems to do great.


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## warrjon (Jun 27, 2018)

Ropata said:


> Here in New Zealand we get it in a tub or spray can. It's derived from our massive sheep industry. I'm told that  somewhere in  Scotland there is a  350 year old iron gate that is completely rust free due to sheep rubbing up against it all the time. I dont now if this is true but what I use it for seems to do great.



Yep, we have a dozen sheep in the backyard and more in the paddock across the road and none of the metal fences have any rust on them. So Lanolin definitely works.....


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## CluelessNewB (Jun 27, 2018)

I use anhydrous lanolin straight from the jar on the turnbuckles for the rigging on my sailboat.  The body of the turnbuckle is bronze and the fittings are stainless.   It works well.   It is also is good for stainless on stainless threaded fittings to prevent galling.  It is rather thick and sticky, a heat gun will soften it.  I would think mineral spirits would be a good option for thinning it.  I bought a 1 lb jar at a pharmacy about 20 years ago, I still have about 90% of it.   A little goes a long way.


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## pacifica (Jun 27, 2018)

'Fluid film'  should be easy to find and is lanolin based. You can buy a spray can at Amazon or Lowes.


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## dbq49 (Jun 27, 2018)

Yes on Practical Machinist they had a formula of 1 part lanolin and 3 parts ISO 68 oil.  That oil is what was 20 weight non detergent oil.  ISO 68 can be found at Northern Tool stores  or oil suppliers by the gallons.  1# of lanolin was $14.00 on ebay.
DBQ49er


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## hman (Jun 27, 2018)

A year or so ago, I got unhappy with the cost of Fluid Film (though it DOES work well!)  Tried dissolving anhydrous lanolin in a series of solvents.  Turpentine turned out to be the best solvent - easily dissolved a goodly amount of lanolin.  Haven't done much with it since then - busy moving out of two houses (and shops!) into a new location, now trying to get everything unpacked and organized.  But as soon as I'm "back in business," I plan to mix up a batch.


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## Richard King 2 (Jun 27, 2018)

OT a bit but GOOP hand cleaner with Lanolin (non abrasive) works super to clean granite surface plates.  I use it to remove bearing blue.


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## HMF (Jul 8, 2018)

There are several threads on that:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/lanolin-and-as-rust-preventer.70896/#post-594499
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/lanolin-and-as-rust-preventer.70896/#post-594493
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/lanolin-and-as-rust-preventer.70896/#post-594448
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/lanolin-and-as-rust-preventer.70896/#post-594350
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/lanolin-and-as-rust-preventer.70896/#post-594302


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## C-Bag (Jul 8, 2018)

Another vote for Fluidfilm. My can has lasted my over two years now. It takes just a little squirt so it lasts me forever.


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## Silverbullet (Jul 8, 2018)

I've made and used eds red for many years. At one point using a gallon a year cleaning high priced trap guns. Those guys are picky to who they trust with a gun that cost over $30,000 dollars plus . A good job and reputation earned I offered and always made more in tips then I charged. I'm a vote for lanolin as a rust preventer.


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## aliva (Jul 10, 2018)

LPS 1


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## Tim9 (Jul 10, 2018)

I mix lanolin with mineral spirits. Turps would work fine also.usually 1 part lanolin 5 parts mineral spirits and I then add a little oil for good measure.


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## randyjaco (Jul 11, 2018)

PB Blaster's "Corrosion Stop" does the job for me. And I live on the Texas gulf coast. It is cheap and easy to apply. 

Randy


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## Tim9 (Jun 18, 2019)

Uncle Bob said:


> Some time ago I saw a thread about a very effective rust preventer made from cooking lanolin and ?????
> I think the ratio was 4:1 or 5:1.
> Anyone remember the carrier?


Bob...I was looking over my “notes” on my phone and stumbled upon the recipe. FWIW... I’ve been just mixing raw lanolin I bought on Ebay and cutting it with mineral spirits.
   Anyway... here’s the recipe.

Fluid film
The original formula is (by volume) 3 Lanolin, 3 Mineral oil and 7 Mineral Spirits [paint thinner]
The formula was available on the MSDS before the current owners bought FF.

There is a superior formula that offers better flow in cold. FF does not offer that.


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## Bob Korves (Jun 18, 2019)

Ed's Red is a formula designed for cleaning rifle bores.  Many like it for that use.  Users have found that it has other uses as well.

My formula, which was designed for protection of machines, tools, and whatever else from rusting and other surface deterioration, for use in machine shops, has the following formula:

1 part lanolin
5 parts mineral spirits
1 part ATF (automatic transmission fluid)

Heat the lanolin gently and carefully (to not start a fire) until it is completely melted and clear.  (Edit: Move it well away from the heat source,) then add the mineral spirits and stir until until completely blended, and finally add the ATF and mix well.  The components stay mixed and stable in my climate.

It is quite thin, and can be easily applied to a thin wet coat with an old toothbrush, Q-tip, corner of a rag, fingers, or whatever.  When the solvents in the mineral spirits evaporate out, it will leave a very thin and reasonably hard coating that is transparent and is only slightly noticeable to the touch.  I live in sunny California where we do not get much freezing weather, but we do get a fair amount of rain at times.  The year around average humidity is pretty dry.  This recipe works, never a problem if it stays on.  If you rub or wash it off, it will be gone.  Water does not dissolve it, just beads up on the surface.
(Edit:  Keep this solution in an air tight container or the mineral spirits will dry away, leaving a thick mix of half lanolin, half ATF.)


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## middle.road (Sep 21, 2019)

Bob Korves said:


> Ed's Red is a formula designed for cleaning rifle bores.  Many like it for that use.  Users have found that it has other uses as well.
> 
> My formula, which was designed for protection of machines, tools, and whatever else from rusting and other surface deterioration, for use in machine shops, has the following formula:
> 
> ...


Question, how do you measure the lanolin?
Is it by solid or after it's melted?

Have had some lanolin for a couple of months now. Got to do something for the equipment in the shop.
This Rust Removal is a constant task and I grow weary of it.
Paste was was doing the job, but it fails if not constantly applied.
I haven't had much shop time the last several months and items have gone to rust.

Thx.


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## Tinkertoy1941 (Sep 21, 2019)

The formula I recently seen on this site was more complicated than any of the above and involved heating some of the materials in the recipe.
I copied the in and had it in a WORD format trying to figure out where to save it.
And as usual I did not save it in a timely fashion and we had a power outage with a tree falling on the power company line.
End of story and I would sure like to recover the one I forgot to save!!


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## tech610 (Sep 21, 2019)

pacifica said:


> 'Fluid film'  should be easy to find and is lanolin based. You can buy a spray can at Amazon or Lowes.


Yes, "Fluid Film" is what I use.


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## francist (Sep 21, 2019)

Tinkertoy1941 said:


> I would sure like to recover the one I forgot to save!!



Perhaps this was it? Posted in POTD a couple weeks ago (post #2084) by pontiac428 









						2019 POTD Thread Archive
					

No word for thank you, but you'd still wish the cat would paws right meow and tail you a thank you. I mean, you did great work kitten busy fur the feline! (Sorry for the puns, I'll shut up now. I think it's a brilliant use of the tools for the unintended.)   It's ok, Silverhawk. You reply has...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




-frank


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## middle.road (Sep 21, 2019)

From @*pontiac428 *'s Post -Here-. Thanks to @*francist*.



pontiac428 said:


> Like many, I live where humidity levels ensure a perpetual battle with surface rust.  After living for so long in Nevada, this is a bit of a novel concept to me.  This post is my result with home brewed lanolin-based rust preservative.
> 
> The recipe:
> Weigh out 100g anhydrous lanolin and 100g Johnson's paste wax into a container.  Heat in microwave to soften and liquify, mix well.  Add 10 ml of (pick one: naptha, odorless mineral spirits, stoddard solvent) and 10 ml Sea Foam (good source of glycol ethers, can use brake fluid or penetrating oil; penetrant is stinky and brake fluid softens paint, so Sea Foam is my choice).  Mix well and let solidify.  Apply to surface with a piece of chamois and buff.
> ...


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## francist (Sep 21, 2019)

Thanks Dan, I don’t know why my link didn’t link so well this time, it’s worked before!

-f


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## Tinkertoy1941 (Sep 22, 2019)

Thanks everyone I have copied and pasted and SAVED this so I know where it is!!


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## Downunder Bob (Sep 22, 2019)

warrjon said:


> Hi folks, this is my first post.
> 
> I live in an area that is WET in winter and everything steel in the shed rusts. I use Lanox, it's $13AUD a can and lasts a couple of years. I spray it into a tin with a rag and then wipe everything down occasionally. No more rust



Yes Lanox MX4 is the best rust prevention I've ever seen. Widely used in the marine industry. I use it in my shop, and never seen any rust in over 3 years


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## middle.road (Sep 22, 2019)

francist said:


> Thanks Dan, I don’t know why my link didn’t link so well this time, it’s worked before!
> 
> -f


Your link worked fine, I posted it as a quote just so that we'd have all the recipes in one thread.

Putting Seafoam in it sounds interesting as does the addition of Paste Wax.
I'm steering clear of using turpentine just because it messes with my breathing.
I only have a small block of lanolin.
I just checked and I've got a couple of cans of Seafoam handy.
I think I'll split the lanolin and try two different recipes.
I'll have to use a hot plate out in the shop, with my luck something would go awry using the microwave.
I will have to try to sneak Honey's small scale out to the shop.


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## pontiac428 (Sep 23, 2019)

Don't worry, lanolin melts at the same temperature as butter.  You just need to liquify it to get it to mix well with the paste wax (the purpose of which is to leave a protective barrier) the solvent (determines final consistency) and the wetting agent/penetrant (that's where the glycol ether comes in).  You can blend to taste.  My recipe has a consistency like soft shoe polish (for those in the know, more like Parade Gloss than regular Kiwi...).  That lets me scoop and smear with a chamois, spread on the work, then lightly buff.  I wouldn't make more than 200g in a batch (do proportions by weight).  Again like butter, it solidifies at room temp.  Buy chamoix at amazon, you'll thank me.  It is what was meant used to spread this sauce on tools and equipment.

If a body wanted a liquid similar to the Lanox stuff, I would say naptha (VM&P) has the best wetting properties of the solvents.  Mineral spirits have much less odor, so I went that route, but if making a thin formula using 40 ml per 200g  of lan/wax would get you there.  You should be able to tweak proportions all day and still have a good result.

Don't bother with ATF.  It's just long chain aliphatic oil.  There is nothing in ATF to enhance this formula.  Brake fluid, on paper, would be excellent, but it destroys paint.  Same ingredients are in penetrating oil and Sea Foam, which do not (for some reason) destroy paint.  So be knowledgeable of your substitutions.

It's crazy how I put that stuff on a lightly surface rusted chuck, and weeks later the rust is gone and no more is starting.  I have started the long task of buttering up tool holders, fly cutters, my rotary table and divider, my lathe bed...  Haven't hit my mill table or column yet, that'll be my coup de gras if it comes clean.  I'll post that when I finish what's on the mill table now and turn over the fixtures.


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## middle.road (Sep 25, 2019)

One application I thought of since it is making rust disappear, would be on the columns of drill presses and the like.
Mine are miserable so they are going to get coated for sure.
Can't wait to get it on the mills either.


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## Bob Korves (Sep 25, 2019)

middle.road said:


> I'm steering clear of using turpentine just because it messes with my breathing.


You could use mineral spirits, naptha, kerosene, or any other petroleum based solvent.  Some are much better for your health if you are working in an enclosed space.  They will evaporate at different rates and leave varying amounts of oily residue when dry.


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## pontiac428 (Sep 25, 2019)

middle.road said:


> One application I thought of since it is making rust disappear, would be on the columns of drill presses and the like.
> Mine are miserable so they are going to get coated for sure.
> Can't wait to get it on the mills either.


Heavy rust should probably be worked on with some steel wool and wiped with a rag and solvent before applying lanolin. I am looking forward to doing the same with my column mill and drill presses. My mill was stored for many years and needs a good cleaning first.


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## middle.road (Sep 26, 2019)

pontiac428 said:


> Heavy rust should probably be worked on with some steel wool and wiped with a rag and solvent before applying lanolin. I am looking forward to doing the same with my column mill and drill presses. My mill was stored for many years and needs a good cleaning first.


Yeah, most definitely. I've been putting it off this 'season' so far. My old floor model DP doesn't have a rack & pinion type table mechanism so I have to manhandle it. It needs a good rubdown. 
Now at least when I knock in down, this will treat it so I won't have to do it next year.

Snuck Honey's scale out to the shop and of course one of the 'AAA's had leaked.
Had to repair it before I could use it. Don't it figure?
I've got ~250g worth of Lanolin to use.


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## vtcnc (Oct 17, 2019)

Bob Korves said:


> Ed's Red is a formula designed for cleaning rifle bores.  Many like it for that use.  Users have found that it has other uses as well.
> 
> My formula, which was designed for protection of machines, tools, and whatever else from rusting and other surface deterioration, for use in machine shops, has the following formula:
> 
> ...


I'm curious it sounds like all of these uses are for rust prevention of what I would call non-moving surfaces - mill tables, drill press columns, cast iron saw tables. What about ways? Is this applicable for things like lathe ways that have dynamic loading? Or is it too sticky and attracts dust debris and interfere with operation of the machine? Am I understanding this application wrong? Is lanolin best used just for storage purposes?


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## pontiac428 (Oct 17, 2019)

I use my formula on ways and it doesn't get sticky or anything like that.  If you wanted to mix some lanolin with way oil and a little bit of solvent to thin it out, it should still work to fight/reverse rust.  Even something like 1 part lanolin to 4 parts oil, skip the paste wax.


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## ThinWoodsman (Oct 18, 2019)

vtcnc said:


> I'm curious it sounds like all of these uses are for rust prevention of what I would call non-moving surfaces - mill tables, drill press columns, cast iron saw tables. What about ways? Is this applicable for things like lathe ways that have dynamic loading? Or is it too sticky and attracts dust debris and interfere with operation of the machine? Am I understanding this application wrong? Is lanolin best used just for storage purposes?



I was worried about that when I first tried Bob Korves' modified Ed's Red, as my previous experience with lanolin products (fluid film, lps, etc) showed that they all left a sticky redsidue. The Ed's Red mixture does not. I still use way oil, but I do not worry about the Ed's Red getting onto bearing surfaces.


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## Bob Korves (Oct 30, 2019)

After my Ed's Red formula knockoff dries, it is completely unnoticeable on the parts or tools.  It is a thin coating due to the large amount of solvent in the formula.  I may try reducing the solvent level for usage where it is more about heavy duty rust proofing than about a tool that looks and feels nice.  WRT rust, if it is not all removed before putting a rust inhibitor on, it will mostly only help the remaining pristine surfaces.  The rusty surfaces will likely continue getting more rusty.  We must keep moisture and air away, rusty surfaces leave passages where air and water can continue to make cantact with the steel, causing more rust.


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## Chips O'Toole (Nov 13, 2019)

The formula I found was about a pound of lanolin to a gallon of mineral spirits. The up side is that the mineral spirits evaporates, leaving a nice coat of lanolin that isn't slippery or wet. The down side is that if you put it in a spray bottle, as the mineral spirits evaporates, the bottle collapses.


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## Video_man (Nov 13, 2019)

Not to burden with yet another formula, but I've been inspired by this thread to try my own recipe.  It works pretty well :  In a double boiler (to control temperature) mix (by volume) three parts beeswax, two parts anhydrous lanolin (tip: it's gooey, leave in the fridge a while and it solidifies) , one part way oil (with tackifier).  Remove from heat to avoid any chance of spillage of flammable material and add one part gum spirits of turpentine (said to be best solvent for beeswax, which doesn't like mineral spirits) and one-half part DOT3 brake fluid (for the glycol ethers recommended by Pontiac428, earlier).  Let cool and then thin with more turpentine to suit your purpose.    Applied to metal surfaces (thin application is all you need) it solidifies as it dries (a day or two) and then you can gently wipe any excess off.  Makes a non-sticky, polished and pleasant coating.  Also worked wonders on the dried-out wooden handles of an antique bench plane I tried it on.  I have not had this long enough to report it's long-term rust proofing but the coating left seems to be quite durable.


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## middle.road (May 2, 2020)

*GADS* I just can't seem to win against rust around here at all.
Need to get off my arse and make up my batch of lanolin today.

Been re-arranging the shop and have been totally re-doing the contents of the drawers in my budget Vidmars.
Can not come up with a 'proper' drawer liner.
I had some of the large size cushioned drawer liner material in several and if any metal was resting on it, it has stained in an ugly spotted pattern.
I had cardboard in one drawer and thought that might work better so I re-did (15) or so drawers with cardboard.
And *then *I went to clean out a drawer that has cardboard and that had parallels and such in it and discovered that fails also...
I've got some thin rubber membrane, but I'm not sure if that would do any better.
Perhaps seal the drawers and do an oil bath in them?   

These were laying flat on the cardboard. Haven't used them in over a year more than likely.
Sickened me when I went to pull them out.


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## pontiac428 (May 2, 2020)

@middle.road, what a bummer!  Lanolin mix will do well, but I'm thinking using VCI paper as drawer liners is a logical next step for you.  VCI vapor stays trapped in drawers, so while not ideal like a ziploc, it should last a while and it's cheap.


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## brino (May 2, 2020)

You can also get foam that it impregnated with rust preventitive, like this:
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...0-anti-corrosion-10-inch-x-10-inch-foam-sheet

Not cheap, but so far are working for me.

-brino

EDIT: they also have wipes: 
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/workshop/tool-maintenance/75489-vpci-tool-wipe

and little puck like emitters:
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/workshop/tool-maintenance/59367-anti-corrosion-emitters


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## Pierre52 (May 2, 2020)

Rather than messing with home brews, I use a couple of Rattle Can products.  The first is CRC Lanocote which as the name suggests is a lanolin spray.  It works well but leaves a noticeable residue on the surface.

The second is a Bostik product that was called Top Cote but is now called Glide Coat
https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220...ywords=bostik+glidecoat&qid=1588449528&sr=8-1
This stuff is the bees knees as far as I am concerned and works outstandingly well on an cast iron machinery surfaces.  Simply spray it on lightly wait a few seconds for it to go cloudy and then rub it with a soft cloth.  As the Product Data sheet says it:

Eliminates “hang-ups” on sliding surfaces.
Protects all tools and equipment from rust.
Up to 30% slicker than paste wax.
Prevents rust 5 times (5x) longer than paste wax or silicone.
Easier and quicker to apply than paste wax.
Lasts three times (3x) longer than paste wax.
Contains no silicone or petroleum oil.
Will not stain wood or interfere with glues or finishes.
Perfect for table saw beds, drill presses,
lathes, planers, band saws, miters, panel saws, and all hand tools.
Environmentally safer aerosol, no CFC’s or ODC's


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## Silverbullet (May 2, 2020)

For exposed metal i use gear oil or chainsaw bar oil in the mix. Your application id use it with marvel mystery oil. For liner id use flannel and spray it with mystery oil. And id lay one on top if not used daily . Even then i may if any rust pops up.


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## Aaron_W (May 2, 2020)

I made up a batch of the lanolin, mineral spirits and ATF recipe that Bob K gave. Really easy to make and pretty cheap, I've got about 1/2 gallon made up, at a total cost of about $30 ($12 for the lanolin, $4 for a quart of ATF and around $15 for a gallon of mineral spirits, and I have at least 1/2 gallon of mineral spirits left over). 
I bought 2 empty metal 1 qt paint cans, split my 8oz of lanolin between them, then set the paint can in a pan of hot water for a couple minutes to melt the lanolin, then added 20oz of mineral spirits and 4 oz of ATF, put on the lid a swished it around. It is easily applied with a brush.

Brushed on, after about 24 hours it just leaves a very light oily residue. From the can it is thin enough to easily get into cracks and crevices. 

I didn't have much of a rust problem to start with, so I can't say how it works in an area where rust is a serious problem.


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## rwm (May 2, 2020)

I have one other recommendation. Fresh step crystals kitty liter in a small paper envelope. It is super cheap and will absorb water to keep the humidity low. I store all my stuff with it.
Robert


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## Downunder Bob (May 3, 2020)

For my money I continue to use Lanox MX4, comes in a pressure spray can or a 0.5Lt. manual squirt bottle, 4 Lt bottle and larger drums I find any thing I squirt it on stays protected, for many months even stuff I store outside. 

On lathe bed ways It wipes of quite easily and then, just lube as normal.I also use it's companion product Inox MX3. Sort of like a WD40 or CRC only much much better Much easier than trying to make your own. 

I have a few friends who use both on fishing boats both commercial and private. Another friend who runs a marine service center for commercial and private fishing boats, he uses it in the workshop and actually gives a bottle to each customer.

The products are available in the US at least in the SE corner.

*Candan Industries USA LLC*

Green Cove Springs, FL, USA

PS I have no connection with this business, just trying to be helpful.

Downunder Bob.


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## tjb (May 3, 2020)

Fluid Film works great.  I bought one can over two years ago and am only just now getting close to empty.  A little expensive but easy to use - and amortized over 2+ years, to me it's worth it.

Regards


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## ThinWoodsman (May 3, 2020)

pontiac428 said:


> @middle.road, what a bummer!  Lanolin mix will do well, but I'm thinking using VCI paper as drawer liners is a logical next step for you.  VCI vapor stays trapped in drawers, so while not ideal like a ziploc, it should last a while and it's cheap.



I bought a roll of VCI paper (pricey at $40 a roll, but not much more than a couple cans of LPS) before I got a dehimidifier for the shop. At first, I was just wrapping things up before I put them in a drawer or a box, but soon I just covered the bottom of each drawer with it, because that roll is huge.

And yeah, it works well - at least in the sense that nothing in the VCI paper gets rust, unlike the stuff that touches a silica dessicant packet. I haven't done a controlled experiment, though, and the shop now has a dehumidifier, so I'm not ready to declare it a cure-all.


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## Aaron_W (May 3, 2020)

Downunder Bob said:


> Much easier than trying to make your own.




Excuse me sir, but I think you are on the wrong website. We have people here who make their own bolts just because they can.


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## Bob Korves (May 3, 2020)

ThinWoodsman said:


> I bought a roll of VCI paper (pricey at $40 a roll, but not much more than a couple cans of LPS) before I got a dehimidifier for the shop. At first, I was just wrapping things up before I put them in a drawer or a box, but soon I just covered the bottom of each drawer with it, because that roll is huge.
> 
> And yeah, it works well - at least in the sense that nothing in the VCI paper gets rust, unlike the stuff that touches a silica dessicant packet. I haven't done a controlled experiment, though, and the shop now has a dehumidifier, so I'm not ready to declare it a cure-all.


VCI paper works well for items held in confined spaces.  Be careful what type VCI paper you get, it is made for many different applications and will not work well or at all if you are using it to preserve a material it was not designed for.


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## Downunder Bob (May 3, 2020)

Aaron W. Yes of course they do but some of us also like to take a short cut sometimes.. Sometimes the bought item is better than what we can make in our shops, and sometimes we are so busy that we need to buy some things. I don't see many people making their own drill bits or milling cutters. Some use indexable carbide inserts because they don't know how to grind their own HSS tools or can't be bothered. 

For instance I find it hard to justify using inserts for single point screw cutting in a hobby situation. HSS is the much better way to go. But many prefer it because they don't feel confident in grinding their own tools.


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## Chips O'Toole (May 3, 2020)

I fell for the flubbery rubber drawer liner that looks woven but isn't. It eats certain types of plastic. It's worthless. You put your plastic item in the drawer, and a month later you take it out, and the solvents in the liner have eaten a pattern into it.

I found clear shelf liner at Lowe's, very cheap. I think it was 30 feet for $12. I'm using it in my Harbor Freight tool cart. It's fantastic. Unlike black liners, it doesn't turn the whole tray dark. You can actually see small items resting in the tray.

I was thinking of using something like burlap for drawers. Seems like it would be superior to any synthetic.


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## joebiplane (May 5, 2020)

Uncle Bob said:


> Some time ago I saw a thread about a very effective rust preventer made from cooking lanolin and ?????
> I think the ratio was 4:1 or 5:1.
> Anyone remember the carrier?


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## joebiplane (May 5, 2020)

Hey Uncle Bob.....     I saw a similar article  and it was   BEE'S Wax and lanolin oil   I don't remember the mixing ratios  But if any one does I would love to have it..... I have both  products on a shelf   that I would like mixing instructions for.


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## deakin (May 5, 2020)

auto machining we use rustlick. iron is iron it think


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## hman (May 5, 2020)

I didn't write down who posted it (my apologies to the original poster!), but I did write his formula down:  3 parts lanolin, 3 parts mineral oil, 7 parts mineral spirits.  Melt the lanolin, then stir in the other ingredients.

There's also a mix called "Ed's Red," consisting of 1 part lanolin, 5 parts mineral spirits, 1 part ATF.


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