# DC Tredmill motor HELP!



## jster1963 (Dec 14, 2012)

Hi guys, 

I know very little about electricity, and know less about how to make this DC tredmill motor work on my lathe.

I only have this motor without a power supply or controller. My goal is to run my mini lathe with variable speed. I have 2 questions.
1: Where can I get a power supply?
2: Where can I get a controller?

Now guys, my wife won't let me go "dumpster diving" for an old tredmill, or get one from Goodwill. I can't have any more "junk". Also, I am don't understand the "lingo" about PWM and the like. (I am trying and have read tons!)

So would you PLEASE explain things to me like you are talking to your 8 yr old son? Thank you in advance.


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## OakRidgeGuy (Dec 14, 2012)

I can't help much either here.. but I do know that once you have it on there .. it will be awesome and your going to love it!


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## DMS (Dec 14, 2012)

PWM is pretty simple when it comes down to it. It's the same principle your furnace works on at home.

In your home, your furnace is either "ON" or "OFF". If that thing is blowing air at 100F, you are quickly going to cook if you leave it on. You're gonna freeze if you leave it of. So what the thermostat does is to turn it "ON" then "OFF". It turns it on until the temp inside gets to what you set the thermostat to, then it turns it off until the temp drops below that.

PWM is basically the same thing. You have a motor and you want to control the speed, and you have a power supply at say, 100volts. If you hook the power supply up directly to the motor, it's gonna take off spinning at high speed (of course, it's going to take it a little while to get to speed, but that's gonna happen really fast, you will barely notice it). If you disconnect the power supply, the motor will coast to a stop. 

So say the motor has a top speed of 1000 RPM. If we connect it to the power supply for 1/10second, it's gonna start moving. Disconnect it for 1/10sec. It'll keep going, but start to slow down. Connect another 1/10sec. Speed up, etc.

At that point, the motor will be moving at about 1/2 it's top speed (because the "ON" and "OFF" times are equal). That's what PWM is "Pulse Width Modulation". You "Modulate" (vary) the width of the pulse (the "ON" time) in relation to the "OFF" time. When the pulse width is 0, the motor is stopped. When the pulse width is 1/5 sec, and the off time is 0sec, then the motor is at 100%.

As far as a controller, you are going to probably want something called an SCR controller. You can usually find these surplus (check out allelectronics.com, or ebay). Ideally, you want to know what voltage that motor is rated for, but I would guess it is around 180VDC. So you can look for a controller rated at that, and at a corresponding current.


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## jster1963 (Dec 14, 2012)

DMS said:


> PWM is pretty simple when it comes down to it. It's the same principle your furnace works on at home.
> 
> In your home, your furnace is either "ON" or "OFF". If that thing is blowing air at 100F, you are quickly going to cook if you leave it on. You're gonna freeze if you leave it of. So what the thermostat does is to turn it "ON" then "OFF". It turns it on until the temp inside gets to what you set the thermostat to, then it turns it off until the temp drops below that.
> 
> ...



THANKS, I really understand that now!  I will check out that site.  I'm hoping I can "plug and play".  I have soldered things before, but I followed very detailed instructions.  It's not something I really understand.  Thanks again and wish me luck......


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## Chucketn (Dec 14, 2012)

*Re: DC Treadmill motor HELP!*

jster1963,
Look on the internet or E-Bay for a KBIC controller, these are probably the best. They require a power resistor based on HP. The seller should allow you to pick the needed resistor. I would go for 1.5 HP resistor, Chinese horses are a bit smaller than everyone else's.
Speed control is by a 5K or 10K pot, don't remember which.  You will need 2 toggle switches, a single pole single throw (AKA SPST) for off and on, and a double pole double throw (AKA DPDT) to make a reversing switch. Wire the end terminals of the DPDT in an x to the opposite end terminals, power + and_ in at the middle terminals and out at either of the end terminals.




Failing a KBIC controller, look for a MC-60 treadmill controller. They are about 4"x5" and mounted on a large aluminum heat sink. These are simple controllers and are controlled with the switches above and a 5K pot for speed. I have one running my X2 mill and one on an arbor with wire wheels.

Chuck


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## Pacer (Dec 14, 2012)

Get on ebay and do a search for "DC motor speed controller" and that will cover many choices -- like this one (that is a good price on one) - they will typically run in the $50 to $100 (and up) range. The under $20-25 range ones require DC input and you will want one that changes AC to DC...

*http://tinyurl.com/c9onx3s*

Thats a nice motor youve got, most of them has a flywheel pulley taking a grooved belt and can be a bit of a pain to adapt, but youve already got a conventional V belt...


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## jster1963 (Dec 14, 2012)

*Re: DC Treadmill motor HELP!*



chucketn said:


> jster1963,
> Look on the internet or E-Bay for a KBIC controller, these are probably the best. They require a power resistor based on HP. The seller should allow you to pick the needed resistor. I would go for 1.5 HP resistor, Chinese horses are a bit smaller than everyone else's.
> Speed control is by a 5K or 10K pot, don't remember which. You will need 2 toggle switches, a single pole single throw (AKA SPST) for off and on, and a double pole double throw (AKA DPDT) to make a reversing switch. Wire the end terminals of the DPDT in an x to the opposite end terminals, power + and_ in at the middle terminals and out at either of the end terminals.
> 
> ...



Thank you very much!  You are over my head on a few things.  I will start the research tonite.  I'll keep you posted.  Thanks again......


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## jster1963 (Dec 14, 2012)

Pacer said:


> Get on ebay and do a search for "DC motor speed controller" and that will cover many choices -- like this one (that is a good price on one) - they will typically run in the $50 to $100 (and up) range. The under $20-25 range ones require DC input and you will want one that changes AC to DC...
> 
> *http://tinyurl.com/c9onx3s*
> 
> Thats a nice motor youve got, most of them has a flywheel pulley taking a grooved belt and can be a bit of a pain to adapt, but youve already got a conventional V belt...



Thank you so much!  This stuff is a little over my head, so I'll research this starting tonite.  Thanks again.....


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## outsider347 (Dec 14, 2012)

This is what I did & it works great on my drillpress...

For Free
or
maybe 50.00,   find a used treadmill on CL

save the motor, the controller, speed control potentiometer & knob, & all the connecting wire's to make it work. Save the belt & cut it up to line your tool drawers. I saved the usable metal for future metal projects. scrap the rest( pretty good $$$ for scrap metal)

like I said, you can do this for free or maybe 50 bucks & your time of course

fun proj


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## amuller (Dec 16, 2012)

A couple of things to keep in mind:

That motor looks like it's intended to have an external fan on the brush end.  You will need some sort of airflow for continuous use.  If you have the fan that likely came with it, use it and put a shroud around it.

Open permanent magnet motors can be a problem around tools if metal chips get into them--chips will stick to the stator magnets and eventually jam things up.  So try to protect the motor from that.

The label doesn't seem to say anything about rpm.  Hopefully you can dig up some specs online.

Good luck with the motor!


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## Kernbigo (Dec 16, 2012)

use the threadmill controller if it is a m60 they work great, that is the reson you use the m60 contoller because to find one on ebay to carry enough amp would cost a great deal (example danfoss) etc


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## rgray (Dec 16, 2012)

That is a very powerfull treadmill motor and very thirsty for amps.
I would save that for a project requiring more power and pick up an entire used treadmill for less than the motor controller will cost you to run that motor.
Then you have all the electrics you need and all you have to do is rearange them and shorten or lenghten wiring alreay existing.
The 90 volt motors work well 9.5 amp and 4000 rpm capable and sealed. Rated 1.5 hp.


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## dirtyjim (Dec 16, 2012)

i've used a couple of dayton controllers like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dayton-DC-S...521?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d7903c89
mine has the reverse switch built in but its not hard to wire one up.


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## jster1963 (Dec 17, 2012)

Thank you everyone for the replys. I really appreciate the information!

*Amuller:* I think a fan was on there. I have to find another one. Also, I never thought about chips getting in the motor. I will DEF protect that now. As far as speed, I hope to vary it.

*Kernbigo:* I have seen the m60 refered to many times. I'll look it up and see if it will work for my motor.

*Rgray:* I thought this was a powerful motor. However, everyone says to think that it is about half of the rated HP because it came from overseas. I may use it for another project, but I've had it sitting aroung for 5 years collecting dust, so it will be nice to see it used for something. Also, I'm not sure if I'll have another project I will need it for.

*Dirtyjim:* I will look at the Dayton.

Now the $64K question. Does the controller change the voltage from AC to DC? Yes, I am that "dum" on electricity.

Thanks again guys........


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## Chucketn (Dec 17, 2012)

jster1963. 
Yes, most dc motor controllers contain the circuitry to convert AC to DC. The MC-60 controller I reffer to definitly does. As I recycled a Freecycle treadmill motor and controller, I re-used the power cord and the circuit breaker type power switch, and the control panel wiring. I only had to add the potentiometer, and the reversing switch. I used a piece of aluminum plate to mount the switches, put the pot. in the origional mill control box. I mounted the plate to the side of the origional control box.
I will provide pictures if you need them.
Do you have a Freecycle group in your area?

Chuck


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## rgray (Dec 17, 2012)

Yes the motor controller changes ac to dc for the motor and voltage is varied for speed control.
I don't feel the hp ratings are over rated at all on these dc motors they have a ton of power.
They do turn faster than most ac motors so gearing must be considered.
I started out witha 7x10 mini lathe and the motor on that is smaller than a coke can but there was no shortage of power.
I took the wifes old treadmill and turned it into a sander. used an old dual 8" wheeled belt driven sander. I left the flywheel on and drove the sander with a timming belt from the oposite end of the motor. I geared it 1:1 it is a very nice addition to the shop. Can go very slow or very fast with the 4000rpm cap
	

		
			
		

		
	

View attachment 43867

	

		
			
		

		
	
ability of the motor.


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## Pacer (Dec 17, 2012)

I have used motors virtually identical to that one in some 10 installations so I have a good bit of experience with them...



> I think a fan was on there. I have to find another one. Also, I never thought about chips getting in the motor.



Dont put a lot of effort right off on a fan, I have never had a problem with heat build up - after install just lay your hand on the motor occasionally and check, if you should get heat, then work to correct it. For chip protection I use that thin foam thats in packages tie wrapped around the open areas.



> However, everyone says to think that it is about half of the rated HP be



This is pretty much true, also the rpm is often a good bit more than shown (this can be a prob in some cases)



> Does the controller change the voltage from AC to DC? Yes, I am that "dum" on electricity.



Yes, you might do a more specific search on ebay for something like "treadmill speed controller" - there are so many of those little controllers that control DC in and DC out - you need AC in. You should get one for under $100 - There are several on this ebay page...

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...read+mill+motor+controller&_sacat=0&_from=R40


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## twstoerzinger (Dec 17, 2012)

A quick Google search says that the motor is out of a Nordictrack C2000 treadmill. 
The search also turned up a users manual for the treadmill:
http://dl.owneriq.net/8/8ae0a493-cace-467c-be6f-a1f0b91c3baa.pdf
Not sure the manual helps much except to confirm that Nordictrack expects to run the treadmill from a typical wall outlet, so the AC draw is probably less than 15 amps. Also means the motor is most likely a 90 Volt motor. The 120 volt AC power from the outlet ends up at about 90 volts (max) after being converted to DC. The DC drive varies the voltage from 90 V on down to control motor speed and torque.

One hitch might be the rated speed. DC motors are designed to achieve a rated speed at their rated voltage. The quickest way to determine this might be to hook the motor up to someone's 90 V drive (with nothing connected to the shaft) and use a hand tach to check the speed at 90 V. Then you will know what type belt ratio to design for your machine.

I am guessing that a 90 V DC drive sized for 1 HP would do the job. Most drives have a setting so you can limit the maximum current so as not to burn out the drive if the motor calls for more currant than the drive can deliver.

There are probably only two terminals on the motor - both going to the armature. If there are more, they might be for a hi temp switch or something like that. You will have to figure out which is which. One way to confirm the armature terminals is to use a voltmeter set for DC. When the meter is connected to the armature terminals, you will be able to generate a little voltage by turning the shaft by hand. (Only works on a permanent magnet motor which this is).

So - a standard 90V DC controller as mentioned in the other posts might be what is needed.
Terry S.


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## jster1963 (Dec 19, 2012)

THANK YOU SO MUCH for the info guys!  I will be using this motor for a mini lathe (Atlas 618).  It usually uses an AC motor and the speed is varied by changing the belt to a different pully. I will experiment with the speed by changing the speed of the motor, AND the pullys.  I'll use the pully that works best with the motor torque and speed.

*Chucketn:* Thank you.  However, I have never heard of "freecycle".  Also, I may need a pic.  I'll let you know.

*Rgray:*  Thank you.  Great looking sander!  Nice job.  I plan to use the best pully/motor speed combo for my lathe.

*Pacer:*  Thank you.  I'm going to take that advice.  I don't think I'll be driving the motor that hard.  I think I will use an enclosure for chip protection.

*Twstoezinger:*  Thank you.  You are SO rite!  I still have that tredmill, and use it  It was under warranty and the "fix it guy" brought a motor just in case.  He changed the motor "just because" and let me keep the old motor.  (Nothing was wrong with the motor.  He adjusted something.)  I'll look for that kind of controller.

I have one more question.  I've read that a Harbor Freight router speed control would work.  Is that true?  If so, do I have to "mod" it?

Thanks again guys.......jj


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## rgray (Dec 19, 2012)

I'm thinking no on that one. As is runs AC/DC motors. I use a little speed control like that on my electric die grinder and it works great.
You have a straight DC motor so I think it will just eat that control.
If it did work _I'd be second in line to get one cause the controlers (for DC motor) that I've been watching on ebay have been selling upwards of $100.00 used.
_
Someone with more electrical know how than me will answer hopefully.

not sure how I got italics there...typo....typo


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## Chucketn (Dec 19, 2012)

jster1963, I sent you a PM. Don't hesitate to ask what you need to know...
Chuck


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## nightowl499 (Dec 30, 2012)

just the info ive been searching for,  now im ready to go
thanks


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## jster1963 (Dec 31, 2012)

nightowl499 said:


> just the info ive been searching for, now im ready to go
> thanks



These guys have helped me greatly!  I have my motor mounted and my controller (mc-60) is on the way.  The other options were a little too costly for me.  I'll let everyone know when I'm up and running......


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## jster1963 (Jan 4, 2013)

HEEEEELLLLLLP!!!  I got my MC60 controller today and hooked it up.  I connected a 10k pot, AC in, and tested DC out.  DC out is zero.  With the pot connected, the red lights (2 of them) turn bright and dim, but no DC voltage out.  Am I missing something?  The guy I bought it from says he doesn't know how to do anything but connect them to treadmills.  I'm not sure it's working correctly.

Please let me know if I'm doing something wrong.  Thank you........


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## Chucketn (Jan 4, 2013)

If you have it hooked up correctly, there will be no output untill the pot is turned to zero and back up. Like the speed control ont the mini-lathes, a safety feature. Also, I used a 5k pot on my setup. I can take a picture of my setup if you need it. I have 2 connected up at the moment.

Chuck


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## jster1963 (Jan 4, 2013)

chucketn said:


> If you have it hooked up correctly, there will be no output untill the pot is turned to zero and back up. Like the speed control ont the mini-lathes, a safety feature. Also, I used a 5k pot on my setup. I can take a picture of my setup if you need it. I have 2 connected up at the moment.
> 
> Chuck



Thank you Chuck! I think I have it hooked up correctly. Here is a photo. The pot has the center connector connected to the top one on the board. I didn't connect the motor, because I used my multimeter to test the voltage. It still reads .02vDC even going from 0 and back up. I'm at a loss........


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## jster1963 (Jan 4, 2013)

I lied guys.  It's a 5k pot.....


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## Chucketn (Jan 5, 2013)

The wiper of the pot goes to the terminal labled W, which on mine is the middle terminal. I will plug up my spare and take some measurements for you.
One thing to check is the solder connections and leads of the big white power resistor. It may have been overheated in it's previous life.

I have uploaded pictures of my MC-60's here"

http://s571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/MC-60 motor controller/

Chuck

edited to correct spelling


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## OrangeAlpine (Jan 5, 2013)

Just a little off topic, but would one of these power a one hp motor?  Ebay item, looks to good to be true.

Item number: 160938437797  Sorry, can't seem to create a link.

The seller has a lot of interesting stuff for sale, but between their Chinglish and my stupidity, I don't really understand much.

Bill


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## jumps4 (Jan 5, 2013)

OrangeAlpine said:


> Just a little off topic, but would one of these power a one hp motor?  Ebay item, looks to good to be true.
> 
> Item number: 160938437797  Sorry, can't seem to create a link.
> 
> ...


 hi bill
I would have to know the amperage of your motor and voltage to say for sure.
this unit has to be powered by 6v to 90v dc it will not work on ac input (110) so you would have to have a dc power supply for it, then it controls the output speed. at 1000 watts it would control most 1hp dc motors
steve


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## OrangeAlpine (Jan 5, 2013)

jumps4 said:


> hi bill
> I would have to know the amperage of your motor and voltage to say for sure.
> this unit has to be powered by 6v to 90v dc it will not work on ac input (110) so you would have to have a dc power supply for it, then it controls the output speed. at 1000 watts it would control most 1hp dc motors
> steve



Thanks Steve.

The motor is not readily accessible, being at my sons house, about 50 miles away.  I do know it is a quality 3/4 hp DC treadmill motor.  I floated the 1hp as a safety factor.  

When I saw the controller I was struck by the cost and simplicity of the unit.  I think I now understand why.  Requires DC input (not a huge negative and has no feedback circuitry, (big negative).

Correct me if I'm wrong, please!

Bill


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## jumps4 (Jan 5, 2013)

3/4hp is about 550watts so that size controller would work fine
most dc speed controls dont have feedback, the original controller on the treadmill probably did though. i used the original treadmill control on a lathe once and it worked well. it had a magnetic pickup on a pulley and would adjust speed under a changing load. but instead of reading out rpm it read out mph and calories burned  lol
steve


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## jumps4 (Jan 5, 2013)

you might want to check out this thread on a 3/4hp new dc motor before investing in a controller for a used motor
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...an-untapped-source?p=88898&posted=1#post88898
steve


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## jster1963 (Jan 6, 2013)

chucketn said:


> The wiper of the pot goes to the terminal labled W, which on mine is the middle terminal. I will plug up my spare and take some measurements for you.
> One thing to check is the solder connections and leads of the big white power resistor. It may have been overheated in it's previous life.
> 
> I have uploaded pictures of my MC-60's here"
> ...



Thank you so much Chuck!  I think I have the pot hooked up wrong.  I am out of town, but get home tomorrow (Monday).  I see from your pic that my wiper in connected to to wrong spot.  When I get home, I'll connected it to the right place and let you know.  You have been a HUGE help.  Thanks again......


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## jster1963 (Jan 7, 2013)

CHUCK'S THE MAN!  CHUCK'S THE MAN!!!  Thank you so much Chuck!  It was the pot hooked up wrong.  This was my first time hooking one up, and I got it wrong in every combo that is possible.  I got home early this morning and could not wait to try it.  It still took me hooking it up twice before I got it right.  Now I'm in business!

Thanks again Chuck, I couldn't have done it without you.  When I get everything painted this spring, I'll post pix and a youtube vid.


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## Chucketn (Jan 7, 2013)

*Re: DC Treadmill motor HELP!*

Good news, jster1963! I saw the connections in the picture you posted and thought that had to be it.
I have tried to defeat the 'soft start' feature of the MC-60 controller, that requires the pot be turned all the way to zero and back to about 30% before it starts to run, but have decided it's a good safety feature.
Keep us posted on your progress.

Chuck


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## jumps4 (Jan 7, 2013)

hi chuck
i have 3 of these controllers and have been looking for just your fix thanks
can you post a wiring diagram of the connections so i can test them out?
steve


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## Chucketn (Jan 7, 2013)

*Re: DC Treadmill motor HELP!*

Jumps4,
I don't have a bonifide schematic, per say. I found a reverse engineered hand drawn schematic on the web. I do have a couple of pictures, though,

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/MC-60 motor controller/spare2.jpg

I just observed what went to where when I stripped out the treadmill.
The black and white wires are the AC input. On my mill, I used the power cord and circuit breaker from the donor treadmill, with some of the other wires to connect them. I mounted the circuit breaker in an aluminum panel to mount on my lathe. The red and black are to the motor via a double pole double throw toggle switch for reverse if needed (did not use on the mill). At the bottom of the picture are the 3 terminals for the 5k pot. H= high, W=wiper, L=low. Connect the wiper of the pot to W, One end of the pot resistance to H and the other to L. On a pot, the center lead of the 3 is the wiper. That is where jster1963 went wrong. He had the wiper connected to H IIRC.  If the speed pot seems to work in reverse to convention, Clockwise slower, ccw faster, reverse the H and L connections.
I just took the spare controller back to the cold garage, but I can bring it back and take more pictures if necessary.
Some folks have even re-used the slider control from the donor treadmill console to control the speed. 
Notice the white connector on the red and black wires. Same connector used in older computers for hard drives and CD-Rom power connectors. The motor from one treadmill just happened to have that connector on it.
What application are you going to ues your controller/motor for?
Any other questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Chuck


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## jumps4 (Jan 7, 2013)

thank you again chuck its clear now on the pot
i was thinking maybe my old sears drill press it is too fast for metal even with 1750 motor and 4 step pulleys, i didnt do it before because i'd have to have used the electronic display/control to set speeds and it would look bad. 
steve


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## jster1963 (Jan 17, 2013)

*Re: DC Treadmill motor HELP!*



chucketn said:


> Good news, jster1963! I saw the connections in the picture you posted and thought that had to be it.
> I have tried to defeat the 'soft start' feature of the MC-60 controller, that requires the pot be turned all the way to zero and back to about 30% before it starts to run, but have decided it's a good safety feature.
> Keep us posted on your progress.
> 
> Chuck



Chuck, I hate to bother you again, but I have 2 more questions for you. 1. Do you know how to hook up the blue thermal wires? 2. If I switch from a 5k to a 10k pot, what will that do? I'm just trying to get a finer adjustment.

Thanks in advance......jster 
ps. I love the variable speed motor!!!


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## jumps4 (Jan 17, 2013)

on mine the blue wires were a thermal limit and they were in series with the incoming power to shut down if there is an overtemp .
steve


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## Chucketn (Jan 18, 2013)

Seve is correct on the blue wires. Should be wired in series with the power in to the motor. Not sure on the effect of a 10k pot vs a 5k. I measured the pot on the control panel from the treadmill. I actually use the origional slider pot until I got to Radio Shack to get a rotary. Probably wouldn't hurt to try it.
I removed the thermal switch and blue wires from my motors.

Chuck


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## Kernbigo (Jan 18, 2013)

break the wiper wire on the pot to put your machine start & stop switch in that way you come back to the same speed you left the pot at


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## Chucketn (Jan 18, 2013)

Re-starting at the same spped depends on the controller. Treadmills by design, like the SEIG lathes and mills, are set up to soft start. In other words, speed control must be returned to zero and then advanced to start the motor. Imagine someone climbing on to a treadmill after you finish running on it and it takes off at your last speed! Wham! They get flung across the room, or flipped onto their face!

Chuck


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## Kernbigo (Jan 18, 2013)

you are not on a treadmill anymore it is used on a machine trust me it will work like that, you still have the soft start but the speed is where you left it on the pot so you don't have to find the speed setting all over again


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## jster1963 (Jan 19, 2013)

Thank you guys!  I will give that a try.  You have all been SOOO helpful.  Thank you again.......


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## dwdw47 (Feb 5, 2013)

At low speeds if you get a hum from the motor and it feels rough add a choke coil  in one of the leads to the motor and some times a small cap an AC motor run cap if you put it close to the motor.
These will take the lows away and add a ramp to smooth the current.
Just 2 Cents
dwdw47


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## jster1963 (Feb 6, 2013)

dwdw47 said:


> At low speeds if you get a hum from the motor and it feels rough add a choke coil in one of the leads to the motor and some times a small cap an AC motor run cap if you put it close to the motor.
> These will take the lows away and add a ramp to smooth the current.
> Just 2 Cents
> dwdw47



Thank you so much for the info.  I do have that problem.  Now I have to show my ignorance....what's a choke coil and where do I get one?  Also, do I use both the choke coil and a start cap? 

 I wish I had this info a week ago, cuz I just bought a new motor.  I still have this old motor too, but I couldn't get the low end to work smoothly. So I got a new sewing machine motor that jumps4 showed on his lathe.  It is so smooth and quiet.  I can't wait to get it mounted.

If I can figure out the choke coil and cap, I will use this on another project.  Thanks again........


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## dwdw47 (Feb 8, 2013)

The choke coil is easy enough to make your self. There is a couple different ways of making one If you have a 24 volt transformer that the output it should have a 15 amp output. Just use that in series with one of the wire going to the motor. Just tape off the 120 volt wires (primary). You may want to try a resistor across the 120v side.
Second way is a little crude but works, wind about 50-80 turns of 14 or 12 gage insulated wire (solid is easier to get flat layers around a 1.25" or 1.5" diameter rod about 3-4" long then make a steel box frame (1/4" or larger in thickness) around the rod making sure you leave a 1/32 gap at one end of the round stock and same thing install in series with one of the leads going to the motor.
The capacitor can't be a motor start only a motor run and put it across the output of your power supply.Use a high value cap 40+ Mfd, if you feel the cap get warm put a 10 ohm 50 watt resistor in series with one lead at the cap.
These are crude work around. I have found nice chokes on the treadmills.
dwdw47




jster1963 said:


> Thank you so much for the info.  I do have that problem.  Now I have to show my ignorance....what's a choke coil and where do I get one?  Also, do I use both the choke coil and a start cap?
> 
> I wish I had this info a week ago, cuz I just bought a new motor.  I still have this old motor too, but I couldn't get the low end to work smoothly. So I got a new sewing machine motor that jumps4 showed on his lathe.  It is so smooth and quiet.  I can't wait to get it mounted.
> 
> If I can figure out the choke coil and cap, I will use this on another project.  Thanks again........


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