# Chris's Pm1236



## 1cjk (Mar 10, 2016)

I started a thread earlier on ordering a PM1236 and deiced to put everything about my lathe in one spot titled, Chris's PM1236.
I have had it a little over a month now and couldn't be happier with my decision. I was looking at two smaller PM models and decided to wait on the 1236. Here are some up the upgrades or mods I have done to mine.

1. The first thing was leveling feet with a riser base. The lathe was a little low and I was having to bend over. With this addition the center of the spindle is now 47.5" from the floor. I'm 6'1" and find that this height is much more comfortable and I do not have to bend over at all.

2. I added a tool holder rack to the back of the splash guard and it is more convenient to see and access witch tooling I need. I made a bracket for the chuck key witch I look at first before starting the lathe. If its not in its spot I assume I left it in the chuck and don't start up till its in its spot(safety first). The holders for the tools are made from 2"x2" aluminum angle cut and smoothed on the edges to fit the holders. The drill chuck/live center holder are made from aluminum plate with collars to fit and protect the shanks. I plan on powder coating all of these things later.

3. I did not like the way my dials adjusted. The springs under them were tight and it was hard to adjust them without moving the handles. I took them apart and tried to flatten the spring out some then they were way to loose. I decided to scrap the springs and make thumb knobs and I like this way of adjusting them much better.

4. I had some knobs that I took off of a Peterbilt's airbrake dump valves and added it to my QCTP. This is not really an upgrade but was more for fun.

5. I have a vinyl plotter and made a Precision Matthews decal to dress up the base a little.

6. I found the red rack that has the WD-40 and oil can in it at Harbor Freight. It also holds the different size allen wrenches that are needed. It is magnetic and is very convenient and doesn't get in the way.

7. I made a way protector for the front of the carriage to protect the ways from all the chips piling up on them. It is made from this rubber floor mat stuff I found a Sam's Wholesale.

8. I added the "poor man's"dro to the tailstock.

9. The shaft in my tailstock had a lot of twist in it. I took it apart and the little key that keeps it from rotating was poorly made. I turned a new one and milled the sides down to fit better in the keyway on the bottom of the shaft.

That's all I can think of at the moment and just wanted to share these things with everybody. I have found a lot of good information on here and thought these things could help others out. Thanks all.


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## wawoodman (Mar 10, 2016)

Very nicely done. Now let's see some chips!


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## 1cjk (Mar 10, 2016)

Here's an overall shot and a little hammer and hand deburring tool I made on it.


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## petertha (Mar 10, 2016)

I like that rubber mat idea a lot. How is the metal strip held to the carriage?
When you say the tailstock shaft, do you mean the quill or whatever the term is that holds the MT arbor tools? That had rotational slop?


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## 1cjk (Mar 10, 2016)

I made an aluminum bracket that bolts into where the follow rest goes. I like that material because of the ribs in it. It holds the chips in place so they don't just slide in between the ways. They also help guide them to the back of the chip pan when you brush them off.

 I meant quill. I don't why I kept referring to it as the shaft. Yes the quill had rotational slop.


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## 1cjk (Mar 10, 2016)

I  also meant to mention that the way cover  extends far enough forward to help keep chips from landing on the lead screw too.


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## 1cjk (Mar 10, 2016)

I also added a carriage lock as others have.


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## JayBob (Mar 11, 2016)

Very nice!  Would you mind posting a link to the carriage lock you used?


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## 1cjk (Mar 11, 2016)

This is the link for the ajustable lever for the carriage lock.  http://www.mcmaster.com/#6848K72


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## Bamban (Mar 11, 2016)

Nicely done.


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## petertha (Mar 11, 2016)

Is the carriage clamping mechanism on your PM lathe similar to this? (my lathe). Was the topside originally a nut? Just curious, my (hex nut) requires a bit of futzing sometimes to get the tightening initiated. Sometimes the lower clamp will just rotate with the tightening motion. Seems like it needs just bit of lateral force on the nut simultaneous to tightening, or if the carriage is displaced just a bit & then it 'engages'. The pic shows it has some sort of eccentric shape on the shoe. I haven't removed it. but suspect the issue is in there somewhere. Bu maybe your handle mod, once set up, limits the clock rotation to a narrower angle to either 'free' or 'clamp'?


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## petertha (Mar 11, 2016)

1cjk said:


> Yes the quill had rotational slop.


Interesting. Reason I asked: my tailstock el-cheapo DRO woody mock-up - I was concerned that hard mounting the plate & vernier to the quill might bugger up the vernier if it sees any twisting motion. I also have a bit of rotational slop like when a drill bit engages the material. So I've been testing this assembly with kind of a convoluted slider pin concept in the quill plate to allow for rotation. You've inspired me to investigate & eliminate rotation, its likely the same issue.


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## 1cjk (Mar 11, 2016)

petertha said:


> Is the carriage clamping mechanism on your PM lathe similar to this? (my lathe). Was the topside originally a nut? Just curious, my (hex nut) requires a bit of futzing sometimes to get the tightening initiated. Sometimes the lower clamp will just rotate with the tightening motion. Seems like it needs just bit of lateral force on the nut simultaneous to tightening, or if the carriage is displaced just a bit & then it 'engages'. The pic shows it has some sort of eccentric shape on the shoe. I haven't removed it. but suspect the issue is in there somewhere. Bu maybe your handle mod, once set up, limits the clock rotation to a narrower angle to either 'free' or 'clamp'?
> 
> View attachment 124465


No mine has the bolt going through to some sort of threaded plate. I just pulled the bolt out and matched the size 
lever to the bolt. McMaster carries a nut version. 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#control-handles/=11hyydy


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## 1cjk (Mar 11, 2016)

petertha said:


> Interesting. Reason I asked: my tailstock el-cheapo DRO woody mock-up - I was concerned that hard mounting the plate & vernier to the quill might bugger up the vernier if it sees any twisting motion. I also have a bit of rotational slop like when a drill bit engages the material. So I've been testing this assembly with kind of a convoluted slider pin concept in the quill plate to allow for rotation. You've inspired me to investigate & eliminate rotation, its likely the same issue.
> 
> View attachment 124466


That is the reason I replaced mine. There was to much twist to mount the scale with out it moving and binding up. I milled the sides of the new pin   about .001-.002 wider than honed it down on a stone for a perfect fit. There was also a little burr in the key way and I took 1000 grit paper folded to fit and smoothed any high spots in the key way. Now it's silky smooth and zero slop.


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## Guv (Mar 30, 2016)

Well done!!


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