# Ghetto Bench Grinder wheel balance method



## Janderso (Jun 19, 2019)

I don’t like how my bench grinder vibrates everything off the bench.
This is cheap and it works very well.
5/8” OD x1/4” ID shielded bearings. I chose double shielded vs sealed due to the friction of the seals.
I am using “D” drill bit, .246”.
	

		
			
		

		
	





	

		
			
		

		
	
The 246 blocks have that patina because they went through the fire.


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## fixit (Jun 19, 2019)

so how do you correct balance, add or remove weight


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## Janderso (Jun 19, 2019)

Well now there lies the rub.
This thread isn’t about how to balance the wheel. I guess the title is misleading.
I am using the , drill little holes in the wheel method.
It works for Don Bailey of Suburban Tools. It also works for me. He said they have been doing it that way for decades on high rpm surface grinder wheels.
There are several different methods on the web, I may try the, teardrop washer method.
I don’t like putting holes in a new wheel.


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## fixit (Jun 19, 2019)

when you drill the wheel how far from the hub do you drill & what size hole


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## Choiliefan (Jun 19, 2019)

I've never heard of this method.
Please expand.


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## Bob Korves (Jun 19, 2019)

fixit said:


> when you drill the wheel how far from the hub do you drill & what size hole


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## Technical Ted (Jun 19, 2019)

Shielded bearings was a good choice. But, grease in the bearing will stiffen them some. I have removed grease from shielded bearings for Stirling engines I have built by letting them soak for a few days in brake cleaner and blowing them out with air. Once the grease is dissolved and removed you'll have a close to friction free bearing. Shields do not seal a bearing like seals do. There is not a tight seal on them so you can actually add/remove grease from them. 

Ted


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## lordbeezer (Jun 19, 2019)

If you're gonna drill do it under the large washer.


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## markba633csi (Jun 19, 2019)

Got a 40 watt laser handy? 
Seriously it seems like you need a grinding wheel to grind the grinding wheel
or add weights- epoxy?


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## Janderso (Jun 19, 2019)

1/4" ceramic drill bit and I use the hammer drill setting. I still ping the wheel before I would mount it.
How deep? Oh maybe 1/4"


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## Janderso (Jun 19, 2019)

Mark, I've thought about adding weight. If you come up with a good, safe way please let us know.
I saw a video of a guy who made a self balancing jig with two thick washers, ball bearings and a groove using a form tool.
Home Shop Machinist, I think.


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## C-Bag (Jun 19, 2019)

Technical Ted said:


> Shielded bearings was a good choice. But, grease in the bearing will stiffen them some. I have removed grease from shielded bearings for Stirling engines I have built by letting them soak for a few days in brake cleaner and blowing them out with air. Once the grease is dissolved and removed you'll have a close to friction free bearing. Shields do not seal a bearing like seals do. There is not a tight seal on them so you can actually add/remove grease from them.
> 
> Ted


This is what I did with the Oneway balancing kit I got. I prefer this to drilling into grinding wheels partially because I get squeamish about disturbing the structure of the wheel and mostly the balance is going to change as the wheel wears. It makes way more sense to just balance through the arbor. This is how Tormach balances their surface grinder wheels. I also used the balance fixture and bearings to balance my tool grinder wheels by drilling into the aluminum arbor than the wheel. One was so off I ended up putting a couple of set screws into the arbor to help balance it. The Oneway is not cheap but very nicely made and if you've ever seen what an exploding wheel does to somebody it will give you pause. NFI yadda yada.


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## fixit (Jun 19, 2019)

Thank you very much


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## Janderso (Jun 20, 2019)

I noticed the Norton wheel I bought had a series of sleeves for different size arbors. They fit tight where the Dewalt wheel was sloppy.
The fit to the arbor could affect vibration. IMHO
After drilling several holes on the heavy side I was able to slowly spin the wheel at any point and it would stop consistently.
Remounted it, very smooth. Wow! what a difference.
I also mounted my 8" Norton green wheel. I got lucky, no vibration.
Now to dress the wheels for an even better fit.


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## homebrewed (Jun 20, 2019)

Here's a link to a page describing two ways to balance a grinding wheel (without drilling holes in it):  balancing grinding wheels  It discusses the automatic-balancing scheme, but it's important to read the entire article because the auto-balancing approach didn't initially work.  The video there doesn't show how to use the teardrop washers, nor does it show how the auto-balance washers perform.  While the machining time for both approaches is claimed to be about the same, if you add in the balancing fixture I think the auto-balance idea comes out ahead.

A wheel that is wobbling would also vibrate, so if vibration still is an issue after a wheel is static-balanced that might be the problem.  I found another web site which mentions that mounting washers on hobbyist-grade grinders are often stamped & are curved or have burs.  This can cause the wheel to be off-kilter and wobble.

I got lucky with the Craftsman 6-inch grinder I found at a garage sale.  It has very little vibration, and a nice coarse/fine wheel combo.


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## Janderso (Jun 20, 2019)

I have had to put the wheel spacers on the lathe or make new ones due to mis-fit or uneven clamping.
I use the guard and I always wear safety glasses and a quality full face shield.
I'm not crazy about holes in the bonded grit but, like Don Bailey says, his dad was a tool maker and he did it this way.
If you guys try out the tear drop washers let us know how it works out.


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