# Removing a Jacobs Chuck



## papermaker (Mar 23, 2013)

I just bought a 1/2" Jacobs chuck that is on a #2 morse taper. I want to remove the #2 morse taper to put the chuck on a #1 morse taper. How do you get it off?


----------



## Splat (Mar 23, 2013)

Most are either friction fit, screwed in, or permanently attached to the chuck. Do you have the make and model of the chuck?


----------



## Halligan142 (Mar 23, 2013)

Look around the base of the chuck.  Usually it will have markings that will tell you what it is.  Either thread size I.E. 3/8 x 24 or taper size I.E. JT-33 or JT-2.  If it's a Jacobs taper they are press fit and you'll need these to get it off http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRI...re=ItemDetail-_-ResultListing-_-SearchResults


----------



## Keith (Mar 23, 2013)

If the chuck is on a Jacobs taper in the chuck, it is easy. You grab the arbor is a vise between soft jaws. The arbor should be about flush with the top of the vise jaws. Take a block of wood and lay it on the jaws with one edge up against the chuck. With one had loosely hold the chuck, and with other hand take a good stout hammer and give the block of wood a good solid biff. The chuck will be driven off the taper. Be sure to catch it so it doesn't hit the floor.

Keith


----------



## papermaker (Mar 23, 2013)

I'm having trouble picturing what you're saying.


----------



## Artpro (Mar 23, 2013)

Hi. Most, if not all chucks mounted on Morse taper shanks have "Jacobs" a taper on the chuck end. Try the 
U-shaped wedge/pickle fork routine. In order to have something to wedge against, do it while it's mounted in the machine spindle. You may have to use additional spacers. Then again, it might have threads inside the chuck, in which case, it's also best to disassemble while mounted in a machine spindle.
Check out this site.  http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/archive/index.php/t-15768.html
Art


----------



## Tony Wells (Mar 23, 2013)

Before investing a lot of time and effort, make sure you can get the proper MT-1 arbor to fit the JT in the back of the chuck, if indeed it is a JT. Otherwise, you may end up re-machining the JT to fit the chuck. Or possibly the wiser course would be to find another chuck already set up with the proper size MT.

Just food for thought.


----------



## Taz (Mar 23, 2013)

In the case where there isn't enough of a shoulder on the arbor to get the u-shaped wedges up against, Jacob's recommends drilling a hole through the arbor near the chuck to create a fixed point to wedge against.



I have 2 chucks and one arbor I've had to do this with, but jacobs hasn't steered me wrong yet!

Full details on removing all kinds of Jacobs chucks here.

http://www.jacobschuck.com/drill-chuck-install.asp


----------



## papermaker (Mar 23, 2013)

Taz said:


> In the case where there isn't enough of a shoulder on the arbor to get the u-shaped wedges up against, Jacob's recommends drilling a hole through the arbor near the chuck to create a fixed point to wedge against.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I looked on there website and there is good tips for getting it off! Thanks for steering me in the right direction.


----------



## Kevin45 (Mar 23, 2013)

Some of the 1/2" chucks already have a hole in them from the factory. You can open up a bench vise just enough to let the arbor fit between the jaws, double up a shop rag so the chucks can rest on it on top of the vise jaws, then use a 3/16" punch through the chuck and rap it a few good times. The punch will have to be smaller than a 1/4" because IIRC, the thru hole is right at a 1/4"


----------



## papermaker (Mar 23, 2013)

Success!!! I bored though the inside of the chuck body with a 5/16" drill. Then i put the morse taper though the hole in my anvil with the chuck resting on top and used a long punch and a 3# sledge hammer. WHACK! Out came the morse taper. Thanks for all of the tips! 
Hopefully the guy next to me at Liberty Tools that bought the bigger Jacobs chuck sees this post and does the same thing.
Again thanks you all for the tips


----------

