# Picked up a couple vices at an estate sale.



## ebgb68 (Oct 24, 2014)

I've needed a vice but was torn on what to buy . Today I ran across both of these for sixty bucks. The tilt model had junk written on it so it's fate is certain both the other one works great a little worn but the jaws look great. 
I either did ok or I'm sixty further away from my goal?


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## Brain Coral (Oct 24, 2014)

I think you did very well   Those vices will clean up remakably... I wish that I could find stuff like that around here...

Cheers 

Brian


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## JimDawson (Oct 24, 2014)

Looks like a good buy to me.:thumbzup3:


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## Falcon67 (Oct 24, 2014)

I'd say you made $40~60 over the total purchase just on the 2nd picture depending on the size.


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## ebgb68 (Oct 24, 2014)

The jaw opening is 6 " wide  and it opens up to 6" . There are no markings other than a tag on the side missing . 
I normally don't find any thing good at sales I went to look at a south Bend lathe and that wasn't what I wanted.


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## chuckorlando (Oct 24, 2014)

Take that tilt apart before you discount it. Nice find


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## ebgb68 (Oct 26, 2014)

chuckorlando said:


> Take that tilt apart before you discount it. Nice find


The hex end is twisted so I was digging around for the manufacture is. The only other one I can find is this one on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-ANGLE-VIS...0?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item3ce1558b88
It's probably an import any chance of finding parts ?


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## JimDawson (Oct 26, 2014)

Turn the 6 inch over, and look for a D-6 on the bottom, it could be a Kurt.   The tilt vice could be a Palmgren.


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## pebbleworm (Oct 27, 2014)

I have enough vices... A new vise, that I could use.


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## ebgb68 (Oct 27, 2014)

pebbleworm said:


> I have enough vices... A new vise, that I could use.


I cure my vices with new vises . Spell check caught the " vises" part ☺


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## Mark in Indiana (Oct 27, 2014)

Very good buy. Both will clean up great. The only way that either one would be junk is if they were broken.


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## Andre (Oct 27, 2014)

Don't scrap the tilting vise, surface rust won't hurt a vise....well...because it's a vise. It's probably literally bulletproof. At the very least coat it with oil and put it away in a corner. You'll forget about it, and you or somebody else will find it someday and might like it then. I hate to hear about people scrapping things, a sad end to a tool that may have seen so much use and care.

You can never have too many vises!


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## Bill Gruby (Oct 28, 2014)

The Adj. Angle Vice is no where near as bad as you think. Take it apart and soak the parts in EvapoRust overnight. It will be good as new in the morning. HF has EvapoRust and many of the Big Box stores do also.

 "Billy G"


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## jpfabricator (Oct 28, 2014)

Dont scrap the tilt vice, if you dont want it p.m. me and we can work out a deal!

Jake Parker


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## ebgb68 (Oct 28, 2014)

Thanks guys I soaked it in WD40 right away and last night I gave it a turn. It works !  There is some slop in the handle about a half turn before my eye sees movement. The hex nut you put a wrench on is twisted. 
I've been insulating my barn so I can afford to heat it all winter . When done I plan to work on my mill and both vises .


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## Mark in Indiana (Oct 28, 2014)

ebgb68 said:


> Thanks guys I soaked it in WD40 right away and last night I gave it a turn. It works !  There is some slop in the handle about a half turn before my eye sees movement. The hex nut you put a wrench on is twisted.
> *Something that will work much better than WD40 for freeing rusted parts is a 50/50 mixture of transmission fluid and acetone.*
> 
> I've been insulating my barn so I can afford to heat it all winter . When done I plan to work on my mill and both vises .


*Thanks for this bit of inspiration. I'll try to finish my "play room".*

*I restore vises as a hobby & sideline. Below are pictures of a before & after restoration of  100+ year old Reed bench vise that was my biggest challenge. It had been laying in the dirt, behind a barn for 20+ years. This vise was truely locked up. Now it is a high quality shop centerpiece.

So, please do what you can to save that old arn, you'll be glad you did.


Happy Trails!*


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## Uglydog (Oct 28, 2014)

Great finds!!

And if jpfab ends up not wanting it, I'm in line.
Please

Daryl
MN


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## ebgb68 (Oct 28, 2014)

Mark in Indiana said:


> *Thanks for this bit of inspiration. I'll try to finish my "play room".*
> 
> *I restore vises as a hobby & sideline. Below are pictures of a before & after restoration of  100+ year old Reed bench vise that was my biggest challenge. It had been laying in the dirt, behind a barn for 20+ years. This vise was truely locked up. Now it is a high quality shop centerpiece.
> 
> ...



Very nice hard to believe they are the same vise very nice work ! I will try your mix to free up the base and swivel. What do you use for the clean up process ? I wouldn't think wire brush would be ideal for the machine surfaces ?
I'm a ways off from starting on them but it don't hurt to plan ahead .


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## george wilson (Oct 28, 2014)

I bought a tilting vise like that one made in Asia many years ago from Wholesale Tool. I just treated it like a set of castings,and took a light truing cut over the pertinent surfaces. There are gib screws you can adjust to reset for the little bit you take off. I still have it. It is not the most rigid pattern of tilting vise. Just take lighter cuts with it and it will do well.


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## Mark in Indiana (Oct 29, 2014)

ebgb68 said:


> Very nice hard to believe they are the same vise very nice work ! I will try your mix to free up the base and swivel. What do you use for the clean up process ? I wouldn't think wire brush would be ideal for the machine surfaces ?
> I'm a ways off from starting on them but it don't hurt to plan ahead .



  The most important thing to restoring a vise...like any other piece of equipment is extreme patience. It took a couple of months to do the restoration that I pictured above. Mainly because of the risk of damaging components. 
  After I separated all of the components, I used a braided wire cup wheel on an air sander and a braided wire wheel on a bench grinder to remove the rust. The bare metal details were polished with Scotch-Brite pad disks mounted to a small air grinder. 
  Painting, detailing, & clear coating, I'm sure that you know the drill. 

Your vises don't look in that bad shape. I would guess that it would take a couple of weeks to restore. A lot of time to wait for the paint to dry.

I've said this in other vise related posts, check out "vises of garage journal" to get some great information. 

Vise restoration is an addiction.


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## tractorman44 (Oct 30, 2014)

Mark in Indiana said:


> *Thanks for this bit of inspiration. I'll try to finish my "play room".*
> 
> *I restore vises as a hobby & sideline. Below are pictures of a before & after restoration of  100+ year old Reed bench vise that was my biggest challenge. It had been laying in the dirt, behind a barn for 20+ years. This vise was truely locked up. Now it is a high quality shop centerpiece.
> 
> ...




Great job on the old timer Mark !!  I don't restore them, but I do add them to the pile when stumbled upon cheaply at an auction or yard sale.  Most recent was a huge (by my standards) blacksmiths vice.  $6.00 isn't going to break me.  It too was stuck solidly and took a lot of effort to free up.  I don't know what their proper name is, but we had one in our blacksmith shop when I was a kid.  Yep, I have that one too and it currently serves as my welding vice.  Dad always said it was old when he was a kid and he was born in 1909.  I do not know how to "date" them either.


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## Mark in Indiana (Nov 1, 2014)

tractorman44 said:


> Great job on the old timer Mark !! I don't restore them, but I do add them to the pile when stumbled upon cheaply at an auction or yard sale. Most recent was a huge (by my standards) blacksmiths vice. $6.00 isn't going to break me. It too was stuck solidly and took a lot of effort to free up. I don't know what their proper name is, but we had one in our blacksmith shop when I was a kid. Yep, I have that one too and it currently serves as my welding vice. Dad always said it was old when he was a kid and he was born in 1909. I do not know how to "date" them either.




Thank you for your kind words. Unfortunatelly, vintage vises are extremly under valued. Although blacksmith vises are out of my area, you got a great deal at 6$. I mostly see them go for around 100$


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## 4GSR (Nov 2, 2014)

The Kurt looking vise was made by Yuasa under license by Kurt back around 1978-1980 something.  I have one of them dad bought back in 1980. Still in nice shape.  I've since replaced it with a newer D-60 Kurt vise.

The tilting vise looks like a Enco brand they sold way back then.  Not positive on that, though.

Both a nice find.


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## Earl (Nov 5, 2014)

ebgb68 said:


> I've needed a vice but was torn on what to buy . Today I ran across both of these for sixty bucks. The tilt model had junk written on it so it's fate is certain both the other one works great a little worn but the jaws look great.
> I either did ok or I'm sixty further away from my goal?



I think your tilt vise in an Enco.


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## ebgb68 (Nov 5, 2014)

That sure looks like it ?





Earl said:


> I think your tilt vise in an Enco.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## MELDONMECH (Nov 11, 2014)

ebgb68 said:


> I've needed a vice but was torn on what to buy . Today I ran across both of these for sixty bucks. The tilt model had junk written on it so it's fate is certain both the other one works great a little worn but the jaws look great.
> I either did ok or I'm sixty further away from my goal?



Looks like you got a good buy there, both look like they have great potential, just need a bit of TLC.  Cheers David


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## ebgb68 (Feb 16, 2015)

I tore into the tilt vise today wasn't too bad . The tilt locking bolt is stripped and the wedge block is missing. really the only other issue is the hex shaft . The worm gear is nice and tight really it looks like it wasn't used much.
I'm really lost on how to fix the hole thats stripped out ? The base is cast iron so it cant be welded maybe a helicoil ? I plan to heat up the hex part and straighten it.


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## ebgb68 (Feb 16, 2015)

I thought for a minute clear coating this


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## Uglydog (Feb 17, 2015)

Is there enough casting all around the hole that would allow you to tap/turn a larger size?
Possibly even using the same pitch, just a larger diameter.
I've also heard of machine tool rebuilders using moglice. Rumor is that there are multiple similar products available.
I haven't done it, don't know if this is an appropriate application.
Here is a link: http://www.moglice.com/
At the very least their Moglice Handbook is an interesting read.
I'd try the larger diameter, same pitch first, stay with acme or whatever it is. 

Daryl
MN


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## ebgb68 (Feb 17, 2015)

Uglydog said:


> Is there enough casting all around the hole that would allow you to tap/turn a larger size?
> Possibly even using the same pitch, just a larger diameter.
> I've also heard of machine tool rebuilders using moglice. Rumor is that there are multiple similar products available.
> I haven't done it, don't know if this is an appropriate application.
> ...


Thank you for the link I will have to check to see if it can be tapped ? I was tired last night but today I'm ready.  I was thinking if I turn down a nut to look like a top hat and bore the base so it slips in from the bottom ? I would think an odd shape like hex with epoxy would do it ?


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## gi_984 (Feb 17, 2015)

I agree with JimDawson, turn the vise over and let us know what it says on the casting.  I had an old Kurt D60 that was missing the data plate, paint, and stickers.  The only way I was able to ID it for sure was the casting information on the bottom.  With a rebuild kit from Enco ($20) ,sandblasting, new paint, and some time on the surface grinder for the base and jaws it works like new!  If it is a Yuasa or similar clone you should still be able to take it apart and give it a good cleaning.


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## Uglydog (Feb 17, 2015)

gi_984 said:


> With a rebuild kit from Enco ($20) ,sandblasting, new paint, and some time on the surface grinder for the base and jaws it works like new!



I didn't know rebuild kits were available. I'll check in to this.
Thank you,

Daryl
MN


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## Chipper5783 (Feb 17, 2015)

Vises be vices?
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/wicked-cool-vises-i-just-got-on-ebay.30991/#post-265019


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## ebgb68 (Feb 18, 2015)

Chipper5783 said:


> Vises be vices?
> http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/wicked-cool-vises-i-just-got-on-ebay.30991/#post-265019


Once its finished I will post pictures. I'm becoming a vise junkie


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## ebgb68 (Mar 1, 2015)

Worked on the tilt vise today got a lot done. The stripped hole is the next project could use some direction. After blasting I noticed a hair line crack where the repair or attempted repair was done. I was planning a t nut  set up in the hole do you think I should have the crack welded ? It doesn't look like a crack from tightening most likely from the repair job.
Thanks Ed


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## compsurge (Mar 3, 2015)

You may want to look into drilling the crack at the end to stop propagation. I wouldn't weld it unless you are prepared to deal with the imparted stress and geometry change will occur afterward.


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## ebgb68 (Mar 3, 2015)

I went to a professional for help my gunsmith. We are going to drill to stop that crack them drill and tap the stripped hole larger. The plan is to run a bolt in and loctite/pin it then drill the smaller size hole in the middle and tap. It will look like a pipe bushing in there. I dont have the tooling to do it and having a mentor show me the ropes is priceless .


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## hdskip (Mar 4, 2015)

Wilton makes a tilt vise like that. I have a Wilton /Double tilt in my shop.


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## ebgb68 (Mar 6, 2015)

Getting closer to a complete vise. The bushing idea worked great now time for more paint!


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## 4GSR (Mar 6, 2015)

gi_984 said:


> I agree with JimDawson, turn the vise over let us know what it says on the casting.  I had an old Kurt D60 that was missing the data plate, paint, and stickers.  The only way I was able to ID it for sure was the casting information on the bottom.  .....  If it is a Yuasa or similar clone you should still be able to take it apart and give it a good cleaning.



It is very obvious to me that it is a Yuasa brand vise they sold many years ago.  I have one.  It doesn't have  the "D-6" cast on the bottom.  I also have the Kurt D60 vise too.  Side by side they are identical. Dimensionally, they are darn close!  The only thing that is obvious, the back jaw of each vise are not in line with  each other when "keyed" to the table slot.  The heights of each are exact.  The replaceable jaws are interchangeable with each other.  As for the internal parts, screw, nut, thrust bearings, etc. I don't know.  Even if they were not, it would be very easy to use Kurt replacement parts on this vise.  As I said before, it was built under license from Kurt, by Yuasa.


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## ebgb68 (Mar 6, 2015)

Thank you 4gsr for the help.  Once the tilt vise is done I'm starting on the regular vise. I have it trammed in and dont want to move it till another vise is ready. I'm really wondering what if has for marking underneath.


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## 4GSR (Mar 8, 2015)

ebgb68 said:


> Thank you 4gsr for the help.  Once the tilt vise is done I'm starting on the regular vise. I have it trammed in and dont want to move it till another vise is ready. I'm really wondering what if has for marking underneath.



ebgb68,

I'll take and flip mine over if I get a chance today and verify what's on bottom.  I'll take a picture and post.
Ken


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## ebgb68 (Mar 9, 2015)

Got it back together I.forgot how big and heavy this one was. I still need to fix the bent end just haven't figured out how to tackle that yet.


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## gi_984 (Mar 10, 2015)

Looking good.  Yes, I'd like to see the bottom of the Yuasa also.  Good to know how to ID one if one of us come across one for sale in the future.  This is what a bottom of a Kurt D60 looks like.  I ground the jaws, and the bottom then top of the vise.  Only had to take a few thousands off total.  Put it back together with a Kurt rebuild kit.  Put some fresh oil on it and it feels and indicates in like new.


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## gi_984 (Nov 20, 2017)

I rebuilt a Kurt D675 right after the D60.  Would like to stick both of them on the Okamoto at the same time and grind to match.  But they don't quite fit on the magnet at the same time.  Will be getting a used 8 inch Kurt for the new mill.  Plan on rebuilding and grinding same as the other two.


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## Scruffy (Nov 21, 2017)

I’ve got a yuasa that needs to come off the mill . If I can remember i’ll Flip it over and take a pic.
Thanks ron


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## Silverbullet (Nov 21, 2017)

You did well and on the repair also. I was going to suggest the same thing or a thread sert, or helicoil repair. But ya did the same as the thread serts with your bolt and redrill an tap. I like the hammered gray paint . Good job , a little heat and you can bend the crank part back.


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## tq60 (Nov 21, 2017)

Look closely at the fit and finish of mating part.

If the hole in mating part is rough cast you can clean it up and drill tap stripped hole to next larger size maybe fine thread.

Thread insert maybe but simple re thread is simple fix that could im] rove fit and finish when done


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## Scruffy (Jan 22, 2018)

Here’s the bottom of a yuasa


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## tcweb (Oct 30, 2018)

Question:  I picked up an older (but not in bad shape) D60, and I'm looking at the D60 rebuild kit available from Kurt.  My D60 uses a collar to retain the screw, but the D60 kit ships with a spring retainer.   Also, the D60 kit ships with 3 thrust washers, and I only see two on the vise.  Is the 3rd one supposed to go between the casting and the front retaining collar?    Sadly, the D60 is the ONLY vise kurt doesn't have the exploded diagram on their website!  Any insight would be appreciated!


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## tcweb (Oct 30, 2018)

Kurt may have answered my question.  They told me that the latest of the D60 series (D60A) did away with the collar, and moved to the retaining spring.   Still need to know if I'll need that 3rd thrust washer.

-Tom


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## KBeitz (Dec 2, 2018)

Weld it with a nickle cold weld rod...


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