# Shop made, homemade drill press.



## GoceKU (Jul 14, 2017)

After months looking at drill presses i've decided to build my own from scratch, no sense paying couple hundred euros for a rusty piece of pipe and a head casting, all the quills are damaged beyond repair, i'm still looking and will be doing this build with parts i have laying around, i've started with making the inner shaft of the quill, started with and old mose MT5 to MT4 reduce, it was ding up on the outside but the inner taper is in perfect shape, this will allow me to use all my lathe chucks and taper drill bits, i chunk up the taper in my lathe and turn down and threaded M16, some of you can recognise
	

		
			
		

		
	















	

		
			
		

		
	
 the sliding spindle as a steering wheel column shaft from a VW golf, i don't own a mill so i could not make this part on my own, that's why i'm making like this, welded the two parts together, i'll have couple more parts to make for this part and weld to it before i machine it all at once to insure the spindle will turn straight, this is not the only project i have in the works, ill try to update it daily hope you like it and follow it.


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## bl00 (Jul 14, 2017)

I will be following your progress.  I love shop made tools.


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## tertiaryjim (Jul 15, 2017)

I always enjoy seeing how others solve their DIY projects. 
It's an area where I've mostly been poor at.


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## GoceKU (Jul 15, 2017)

Last night i spent some time on the lathe, first i had to drill out a piece of 32 mm C45 because i could not find a pipe of the appropriate size and from the same 32 mm price i machined an extension for where the pulley will attach, i'm sure it's hard understand what this piece is and what it will do, first picture  explains it good, more to come.


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## GoceKU (Jul 16, 2017)

Today i managed to weld the pieces i machined yesterday, left it to cool down slowly, as last i mounted the shaft in the lathe, and mounted indicator to check and the shaft has moved about 2 mm i'll have to straighten it before i turn it in the lathe.


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## GoceKU (Jul 17, 2017)

Today i run in my first roadblock on this project, i was expecting for the bar to move around when welded but it seems it move about 3 mm on one weld and 2,3 mm in other, i tried with a car jack to straighten it but no success, tomorrow i'll try to straightening it on my press but i don't have much hope, last time i used my press i managed to twist the frame in a pretzel and the bridge in a half moon, more to come.


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## Silverbullet (Jul 17, 2017)

Try heating and quick cooling on the high spots , Keith Fenner style. Ck his YouTube


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## GoceKU (Jul 17, 2017)

I'm subscribed to Keith Fenner, i've seen the demonstration he was giving at the summer bash, not sure that will work on 35mm weld, with 3mm bend.


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## chips&more (Jul 17, 2017)

Are you sure that is the high/low spot of the bend? Your set-up to straighten is clever. But in looking at it closer, I think the weakest part or the first to bend is at the chuck arbor where it is the smallest diameter. Not sure if your live center can take that kind of side thrust/load? To straighten a shaft correctly is an art. Please be safe…Dave


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## GoceKU (Jul 17, 2017)

This setup was only temporary, at first i thought the bend is in the middle on the weakest part, but it turns out different, i appreciate your concern about the live center , dont worry, its russian made heavy duty, i've turned massive shaft on it without problems, and i wasn't putting that much pressure with the jack.


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## Uglydog (Jul 17, 2017)

Great work!!
Have you seen the Gingery books?
They might be helpful should you decide to build other machine tools.

Daryl
MN


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## dlane (Jul 17, 2017)

What did you weld it with ?


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## GoceKU (Jul 18, 2017)

I haven't seen Gingery books, I've welded it with a mig welder, but at the end spot weld all the holes thats why looks like that.


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## GoceKU (Jul 19, 2017)

Today i had very little free time i did managed to marked where are high point and tried strengthening on my destroyed press and it moved, so with some more work i'm confident i'll get it close enough to be able to machine it straight, i attach couple of picture, you can see how the bar managed to move under max pressure, (25t).


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## Mikebr5 (Jul 19, 2017)

I love homemade tools. Bravo. 
Do as Michelangelo- Envision the straight shaft inside that bent one and keep removing steel until the straight part appears!


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## schor (Jul 19, 2017)

ok, I'll follow this one. Do you really think you can make a drill press cheaper that just buying a vintage one and replacing bushings/bearings? Or is this just more of a challenge and journey?


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## GoceKU (Jul 20, 2017)

Steve S, i live in a small country our infrastructure is very different, here we do not have very old machines, probably late 60's the oldest and the old timers who own them price them like they are made of gold, i've been looking for an affordable one for more than 7 months and all i've found is absolutely destroyed, robbed from the vital parts pieces of scrap wich ware still couple of hundred euros, decided to give it a go, i do like a good challenge, and making complicated parts with only a lathe, welder and grinder, should be challenging.


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## rrjohnso2000 (Jul 20, 2017)

Just returned from a trip abroad. Inginuity is the mother of invention. Made several repairs without the "proper" tools/parts, you work with what is available. 

GoceKU you seem to be well tooled up. I have no doubt success will be reached, this will be fun to watch. I realize it will be tough and frustrating for you but I'm sure a lot of us will enjoy your build

I would love to know what comes next before you attempt, maybe we could offer some alternative solutions. Best of luck


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## GoceKU (Jul 20, 2017)

Thank you Ralph, saying Ingenuity is the mother of invention is very true, here is a link of one of my automotive project, not suited for this forum but you can see what i've had to go thru to convert an all wheel drive to rear wheel drive and my Ingenuity.
http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index...l-drive-conversion-north-south-engine/&page=1


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## GoceKU (Jul 20, 2017)

Today i managed to straighten the shaft to about 1 mm rondout, should be straight enafth to be able to turn it down on the lathe the the final bearing size, i did mount it and tried to cut the high spots on the weld, but because of the slip joint is flexing so i'll use my study rest and will take light cuts.


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## tq60 (Jul 20, 2017)

It will move as the weld is cut so watch it.

Another way to straighten is how auto cams and cranks are done and not with a press.

You place between centers and find low spot. 

Next get SMALL hammer and a chizel and get ready as this seems backwards....Ww did this in an engine shop and brain fights it....

Place low spot UP... Or high spot down whatever makes sense and take chizel and place on top of shaft in middle of weld and a few gentle taps and rotate shaft a bit to form an arc.

Your brain thinks taping towards bend will bend more but the chizel relieves stresses and that side gets wider thus shaft moves TOWARDS the chizel.

This was done on bent cams and welded cranks to straighten before grinding.

Bending by force will move a bunch when machined and bending by stress relief also moves but not as much.

It does take time and be gentle

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk


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## GoceKU (Jul 21, 2017)

Lately i've had very little free time but i've managed to spend some time on the lathe and managed to turn down the weld, took it slow and steady, 80 RPM 0,5 mm cut, i'm getting lot of taper, probably because of the slip joint and have to adjust my study rest to make it straight but run out of time for today.


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## GoceKU (Jul 22, 2017)

Today i continued machining the shaft, i removed the taper by adjusting the study rest, then i had to move the study rest behind the tool post then i machined the other weld also cut down the taper to clean up the discoloration from welding, when the shaft cooled down the back bearing journals shrank and became slip fit and i wanted them press fit, so i did aggressive Knurling now is back to size, now i need to find couple of securing clips and cut groves for them, its cumming along slowly.


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## GoceKU (Jul 23, 2017)

I'm planning to run 6006 bearings, on this build, they are readily available and good size, i had couple of 6006 no name bearings but wanted to use good quality bearings, so i bought those KBS made in kentucky USA bearings, i prefer made in germany bearings, but i was assured those are top quality, now i can measure and plan where to cut the securing clip grooves, also today i bought this belt pulley with this heavy duty support bearing, i may use it if i can cut some of the belt groves smaller so i can have two belts and more gears.


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## GoceKU (Jul 24, 2017)

Today i managed to find couple of securing clips, unfortunately i only find the round wire type, but they should work, i decided to place the bearings at 270 mm apart, and 80 mm apart on the upper spindle, hand grounded an HSS tool to make the grooves radius to match the securing clips i'm having hard time finding pipe with an 55 mm or smaller inner bore, and machining one from a solid piece is too costly, i found one piece right size but its rusty and has many welds , i may try to machine it and see if it cleans up well enough to be used.


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## GoceKU (Jul 25, 2017)

Today i decided to try cleaning the pipe i had, i had no luck finding a new of the right size, started with a brazed cutter but was getting lot of tool pressure, so i switched to a carbide insert tool, cut down half way thru the welds, but had to go, i had couple of things to do, i may be back in the machine shop to finish this pipe.


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## Mikebr5 (Jul 25, 2017)

This is going to be a beastly and beautiful tool Goce. Beastly as in tough. 
Good work, and thank you for letting us follow along your build.


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## GoceKU (Jul 25, 2017)

Quick little update, i spent some more time on this pipe and managed to clean it up, i know before i begin, i'll need to weld up couple spots, now i'm at 60,6 mm so after welding i'll have some material to make it smooth and straight at a round number of 60 mm, i'll do the welding tomorrow and i'll update then.


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## GoceKU (Jul 26, 2017)

This morning i managed to weld up the rusted areas, on the pipe, took couple of photos, this is the same way i fix worn down shafts, the pipe was really thin in one area, this piece of pipe came out of an rear axle from a first gen mazda rx7.


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## GoceKU (Jul 26, 2017)

The work continues, it took some time but i managed to turn down the weld, there are couple of holes, but is much better than before and the surface is good enough for slip fit, tomorrow i need to cut the bearing slots and their retaining groves and come up with some way to make or find a gear rack.


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## GoceKU (Jul 27, 2017)

Today i spend all my free time driving steel place to steel place even visited couple of scrap yards, and finding pipe with 60 mm inside is difficult, i bought this exhaust pipe and this mercedes ML400 driveshaft, it was little expensive but should fit, the bigger pipe is 3 coll 89 mm i bought it for the column, i need to figure out some thing for the work table, i don't have a mill to mill T Nut slots and can't find a factory one, any ideas?


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## bl00 (Jul 27, 2017)

How about something like this.  Wide strips on top of narrow strips bolted to the flat piece on the bottom.


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## savarin (Jul 27, 2017)

B100, can you show more pics of the shaper please.


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## bl00 (Jul 27, 2017)

http://fennetic.net/machines/shaper_modifications.html

It's not mine.  I was google image searching for similarly built mill table that I had seen before.  I couldn't find the one I was looking for, but this one had the same concept.


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## GoceKU (Jul 28, 2017)

It's an interesting, cool concept of making T slots, but it must be milled at the end to have it flat and straight, i was thinking a dual table design, to rotate between square and detent rotary round table (dividing head) on the other side, because of that i'll have to make the raising and lowering of the table be on a rack and pinion, which will key the table mount, so i'll have to make the head swing left to right, to be able to do off center drilling.


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## GoceKU (Jul 28, 2017)

Today i've been busy but did managed to cut, clean up the pipes i bought yesterday, and take couple of measurements, the silver pipe seams to be much harder material, some type of stainless steel or titanium, and is at 60 mm and is smooth inside, no weld rage but doesn't fit over the pipe i've machined, will try cleaning the inside with flap wheel, and is the piece i'll most likely use, the black driveshaft  pipe is 59 mm inside and has big weld rage, this is the backup plan.


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## GoceKU (Jul 28, 2017)

I was surprised why the pipe won't slide when i had 0.3 mm clearance i did not wanted to dirty up my flapper wheel so i decided to try and wash the pipe and was pleasantly surprised it wash out like new, smooth as glass, and after washing fits over the pipe i machined earlier, it has a little dent in the middle i need to push out or cut, what a difference little carbon made in the fit, and how smooth this pipe is was a surprise to me.


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## GoceKU (Jul 30, 2017)

Have you heard of Murphy's law, i've been looking for drill press with a good quill with no success, today i visited an tools market and in between all the china crap i spotted this new spindle with an morse 2 taper and B16 chuck, almost identical part i made last week about 50% smaller and missing the upper drive part, it was at a good price so i bought it, i'm interested how is the drive spline called, i've seen it before on other machinery i've put the last picture with a gear with the same drive spline only bigger.


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## brino (Jul 30, 2017)

GoceKU said:


> it was at a good price so i bought it



Goce,

Those are words to live by. 
If you don't use it for this project it will come in useful for another one at a later time, and you'll have it on hand.

Honestly, reading this thread and seeing the pieces of steel that you are having to work with makes me feel two ways:
1) lucky....................for both the used equipment dealers and the machine-tool parts places around that have decent prices, and
2) a little guilty..........I may have pieces of steel tube in my steel recycle bin that are better than your raw stock.

I wish I could send you some steel tube at a reasonably shipping cost!

But from what I've seen, you will be able to produce a very functional tool from pieces of scrap metal.
I commend your attitude and approach to making the best parts you can from the stock at hand.

I respect your fortitude!
-brino


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## jim18655 (Jul 30, 2017)

I'm impressed with the build. He's only one step above pouring his own steel.


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## GoceKU (Jul 31, 2017)

rrjohnso2000 said:


> I would love to know what comes next before you attempt, maybe we could offer some alternative solutions. Best of luck



I appreciate any suggestion, so next i want to start on the base for the drill press, to mount the pipe then move back to the quill so the work won't be monotonous, for the base i plan to use this 100 x 60 x 8 mm pipe is extremely heavy and should not flex, i plan to put thick gussets, in the last three photos i've mock it up with papir the in the front i plan to put that aluminium pedal for emergency brake, i'll install a switch that will cut power to the motor and a motorcycle brake cylinder and a disk brake on the last pulley, now the question is where do i place the pipe, all the way back, in the middle or in front of the base pipes?


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## GoceKU (Aug 3, 2017)

This morning i had couple of hours free so i started on the base, took me close to an hour to make couple of cuts with my 4" grinder on this thick tubing, then i chamfer the edges and welded them at 45 degrees, after that i need to figure out something about the gear racks i need a long one for the work table, and a smaller one for the quill, and after calling all the gear and bearing dealers i know, i know i'm on my own to make one, unfortunately i do not own a mill or a shaper, so i turn to cars, i dig out couple of old flywheels and remove the starter rings, did little straightening on the bench vice, then i took them to my destroyed shop press i got them semi straight they would take couple of hours more to get them truly straight but i run out of time, this is fairly cheap way to have gear racks.


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## Mark_f (Aug 3, 2017)

I find this project amazing. It is amazing what this craftsman is doing with so little and repurposing materials. It makes me very thankful to live in a country where so much is available to us so easily. I wonder how many of us would have the fortitude to scavenge and go through the trouble to repurpose materials that sone of these guys in other countries must do because nothing is readily available.
I find GoceKU an amazing and talented craftsman.


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## Hellkell (Aug 3, 2017)

VERY creative!


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## Hellkell (Aug 3, 2017)

I would have thought the ring gear would have cracked. Did you have to heat it up to soften it first?


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## GoceKU (Aug 3, 2017)

Thank you Mark, i don't want people to think we don't have steel available, some stuff may be harder to find, i do like a good challenge and some things are me challenging myself.


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## GoceKU (Aug 3, 2017)

Hellkell said:


> I would have thought the ring gear would have cracked. Did you have to heat it up to soften it first?


Some are harder than others, no one crack till now, no heating slowly on the press.


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## GoceKU (Aug 4, 2017)

Today i spent a lot of time in the big garage looking for gears, strengthening the gear rack for the quill, then i went to the machine shop and continued machining the quill pipe, first i installed and set up the study rest, and cut the first bearing seat and retainer grove the i install the bearing to help the pipe from collapsing in the chuck and flip the pipe around, then cut the outside to meat the rest of the OD than i measure and set the distances between the bearings cut the second seat and retaining grove, then i scraped two lines to help me position the gear rack, more to come.


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## GoceKU (Aug 5, 2017)

Today i did little of both machining and welding, you've may seen this piece in previous photos, yesterday i welded little on it, it has a big enough lip to register, but i wanted to add little more to be sure it registers flat to the flywheel, the flywheel is from an peugeot 405 an i've chosen it because is the flattest one i've got, removed the starter ring and welded the shaft to it on both sides also welded the bolt holes as well i plan to use this piece as a rotating work table on the drill press, i need to remove about 10 mm of the face to make it flat and the shaft is over sized so i can cut it down to size and make it run thru with the face, then i place and welded the gear rack to the quill, both pieces were clean so it welded much better, than i began working on the base, first clean up the welds from yesterday and welded the two legs together at the back then from the front, then i cut and weld a piece of flat bar in the front, i'll have a pedal there, also i welded up the fronts of the tubes, i'm thinking should i fill those tubes with sand or concrete to add weight for stability ?


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## GoceKU (Aug 6, 2017)

Today i started machining the modifying the flywheel in to a work table, started by changing the chuck jaws for the outside ones, because the shaft is old it already had centered hole but because i weld it, it wasn't centered, so i redrilled it with a big centre drill, then i setup the live center to make the setup riget the shaft wasn't too much out of round, i took it easy, 80 rpm and took 0,5 mm cuts, because the keyway didn't want to grab the insert and make a mess, i need to take couple more cuts but wanted to check how parallel is the flywheel running and it clean up with only few tens cut, i run out of time for today, i will continue tomorrow.


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## savarin (Aug 6, 2017)

I cant wait to see the finished machine.
I love this build.


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## GoceKU (Aug 7, 2017)

This morning i had some free time so i managed to finish the shaft to size, also drill and tap the end, now is ready to be turn around and the face cut flat, may do one more update tonight if i do any more machining.


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## GoceKU (Aug 7, 2017)

I managed to do little more machining on this flywheel, i did finish the outside diameter, it had a step for the starter gear, i made a two passes on the face but i quickly find out the fly wheel is cast iron and not cast seel, i did a spark test before i weld it, it welded normally, if i known i wouldn't use it, i run out time tonight also my insert chipped, tomorrow i'll change the carbide insert and continue.


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## GoceKU (Aug 8, 2017)

Today i continued with machining the work table, started with light cuts to allow the new insert and machine to come up to temperature, it turn out good, i'm thinking maybe i should cut circles at 50 mm increments to help with aligning the parts for drilling, also whale it was turning i oiled it to prevent it from flash rusting, tonight Real Madrid vs Man United are playing in the city next to me, so i'll be there watching.


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## GoceKU (Aug 9, 2017)

Today i decided to make the spring loaded detents for the rotary work table i did not take many pictures then machining them but i can tell you they took me couple of hours on the lathe, i drill and cut the channels by hand with a grinder, it's hard to explain what will they do but it will become clear once i put it together.


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## GoceKU (Aug 10, 2017)

Today i continued working on the drill table, started again with a scrap piece of axle housing first i cut the ends flat then clean the outside so my study rest can roll on it, then i bore out the inside 55 mm lower side is bored much more deep for the index plates, i'm using 6006 bearings , i do love my study rest, it's so sturdy i can take 0,1 mm cuts and ti measures exactly 0,1 mm the accuracy of this lathe even after 45 years of hard use is unbelievable.


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## GoceKU (Aug 10, 2017)

This night i had some free time so i started on the dividing plates, started with 60 mm piece of 4140 i drill it out to 29 mm, and need to bore it out to 30 mm, then i cut down the outside diameter to 54 mm i left 1 mm clearance, tomorrow i'll continue, the simplest way to explain i'm making this dividing table like tumblers on a safe lock.


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## GoceKU (Aug 12, 2017)

Today i had very little free time to spend so i spend it wisely, first i press in the bearings in the work table housing so i can measure how wide to make the dividing plates, after that i got back to the machine shop and started by boring the inside diameter to final dimension, the boring bar i was using did not reach to the bottom of the bore so when i flip it around, had to go back and bore the last 12 mm, then i parted the plates at 21 mm wide now i need mark and cut the dividing groves, more to come.


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## GoceKU (Aug 12, 2017)

Quick little update, i mark and center drilled all 3 plates, and drill starter hole, and tried drilling to size on one, i used one clamp to hold them, i don't have a drill press vice, more to come.


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## GoceKU (Aug 19, 2017)

Last couple of weeks i've been extremely busy so much so i've been getting only 3h sleep every day, but finally today had an hour free, so i continue on the work table, chuck it up and cut couple of lines at 100 mm and every 50 mm bigger, i use a dial indicator to measure them and they are very accurate, than i drill and tap the center co be able to tread in a bolt in the chuck and use it to set the head in the centre of the table, then i changed the chuck jaws and took couple thousands to make it slide fit instead of press fit, then i testfit the housing and in the last picture you can see where the cam plates will go, more to come.


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## GoceKU (Aug 21, 2017)

Today i spend some time welding on the base for the drill press, i'm using thick solid pieces for strength, and plan to use that i beam at the back, i welded until i run out of shielding gas, i'll exchange the gas bottle tonight so i'll have it ready for whenever i have free time to continue.


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## GoceKU (Aug 22, 2017)

Today i continued with welding and murphy's law struct, my welder run out or welding wire but i did managed to finish one side and make some progress on the other, also cut and clean up the I beam for the back of the base, i'm considering filling up the pipe with concrete because is the tiniest part of this construction at 4 mm wall thickness, tomorrow i'll buy new roll of wire and continue welding, more to come.


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## GoceKU (Aug 24, 2017)

Today started with a thought i'll do little machining and little welding but the machining took me lately half a day, first i switched my chuck jaws and install my study rest it had an small center hole but was off center, i drill a big one and removed the study rest, then i mounted the 40kg piece by hand then i began making cuts and quickly found that is hard as hell probably is AR500 and being double interrupted cut mean i have to slow it down to 63 RPM and increase the feed it totally destroyed two cutting edges on the old insert then i changed it for a new sandvik and by the time i was done i used 3 cutting edges on it, on the last pictures you can see on the left i started to cut on step for the belt pulley, i need to have the pulleys ready to continue with mounting the head motor and other pieces.


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## GoceKU (Aug 26, 2017)

Today i continued with machining on the pulleys, first i finish the left side then i used the newly acquired cutter to finish the right side, then i needed to part off the excess, i don't know exactly what this material is, i'm assuming is AR500 but the HSS cutting tool won't even scratch it, so i had to use my carbide insert tool and in the start it chartered excessively but was able to go deep enough where i could drill the end and get the end part off, then i faced this side so i can chuck it flat later, than i measured and marked where to part it off next, and parted it i'll leave the other side for parting off later because i may need to leave more material for one more belt grove, then i removed the study rest and the part from the chuck i need to clean the the lathe my chip pan is getting full, more to come.


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## GoceKU (Aug 27, 2017)

Today i continued with machining the first pulley first i face it off and started drilling it, this material is incredibly hard i've destroyed 3-4 drill bits but i managed to drill it out to 29mm and will finish with a boring bar tomorrow, i had to slow the lathe down to 12,5 rpm for the 29mm drill the AR500 is some hard staff.


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## GoceKU (Sep 2, 2017)

Today i took a full day to work in the big garage to catch up on some of my projects, most of the time i spent welding the base of the drill press, i did managed to weld it fully and close the pipe, and installed a cable sleeve now is ready to be filled with concrete, i'm considering filling the base pipes as well, other thing i finished is drilled and cut the cams for the work table, i still need to check them for final size and grind accordingly, more to come.


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## GoceKU (Sep 3, 2017)

Had an hour to spare so i did some more machining on the pulley, try boring it with a smaller brazed bar with no success the bar isn't regret enfant, then i switched to my insert tool boring bar, after one pass the AR500 material absolutely destroyed the insert, so i changed it for an sandvik one and finish the bore, then i changed the jaws and chucked it and cut and relief to register the fly wheel i plan to use for the slowest speed, i made it so perfect that hold the fly wheel to the pulley on the 1 mm lip by itself, more to come.


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## GoceKU (Sep 16, 2017)

I've been spending less and less time on my projects, basically because i've got a third job after hours trying to make money when i'm young has left me with no free time, but today i had to prime couple of metal pieces so i quickly premered the drill press base, it's only premer gray but i rely like the way it looks, so i like some advice do i paint it green like my lathe or black or just clear it in the gray.


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## bmac2 (Sep 16, 2017)

The green to match your lathe would be fine but I vote for the gray. It’s got a nice industrial look to it.  

I’m really enjoying this build. I work with so many people that can’t change a lightbulb without their smart phones.


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## Silverbullet (Sep 17, 2017)

Coming together , something to be proud of for sure . The big chunk of steel is that Jack hammer bit from a back hoe. I have one that broken out in the shop looks like it. Good hunk of steel isn't it .


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## GoceKU (Sep 17, 2017)

Silverbullet said:


> Coming together , something to be proud of for sure . The big chunk of steel is that Jack hammer bit from a back hoe. I have one that broken out in the shop looks like it. Good hunk of steel isn't it .


Yes it's from an digger jackhammer used for leveling down houses, its quite hard stuff, HSS doesn't cut it at all.


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## GoceKU (Sep 25, 2017)

It's been over a week since i've done any work on this project, getting ready for winter and my jobs are keeping me really busy, but today thought i had half an hour to spare so i started on the column clamps for the table and a limiting clamp, i used some thick wall tubing, and need to weld some square stock at the ends to be able to clamp, i'm debating should i use screws with handles, or should i use alen bolts and have a alen key near by ?


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## GoceKU (Jan 8, 2018)

Today i was in the garage welding so i did some work on this project also, first thing i did is to find a piece to weld to the slave i made last time, i did lots of graining on the edges to get decent penetration and welded it on, then i moved on the drill table holder, i welded all three detents, then i moved to another project, more to come.


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## Bi11Hudson (Mar 24, 2018)

*Nothing of value to contribute* but know that I highly approve. To build a viable machine of any type and do it essentially from nothing but scrap is the mark of a true "artificer". 

I would like to pass on a chuckle if I may..... (This can be deleted if you find it offensive) I had the pleasure to work with an older electronics repairman in a steel mill for several years. He was a first generation Puerto Rican and very good at his job. Also a good friend to me personally. He referred to a mill file as a *Puerto Rican milling machine*. I found the reference amusing once he put it in perspective. In his home city, young men did what was necessary to keep an automotive engine running. They didn't have access to machine tools but got the job done anyway. For this, I complement them no end.

And to you, Sir, I also complement for *building what you need with what you can lay your hands on*. And would volunteer some parts if it were a smaller project. That big, though, I'll just have to watch and comment. I realize I found this a little late but still find it worthy of comment.

Bill Hudson​


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## GoceKU (Mar 24, 2018)

Thank you Bill, i fully understand what you mean, my situation ain't like that, i appreciate a good challenge and before i started my third job i had some free time so i started a bunch of projects to challenge myself, i do some work on all of them but now i have very little free time, in fact i average 3-4 hours sleep during the week, no worries i'll be back to do some work on the base early next month.

late last night i did some work on the chop saw i'm building, link: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/shop-build-beast-of-a-chop-saw.66035/

Goce​


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## GoceKU (Jul 1, 2018)

This build got sidetracked little because of 6-70 hours overtime a week i've been working for the last few mounts, but today i may have bought a piece that would save me lots of time and make this build much simpler, i bought this MT2 DUSS DUAX 4 speed drill 1250W, i spent lots of time, money and materials on building my own spindle and pulleys which i'll keep and maybe put them together for a second head for this drill press when i have more time and need, i always intended for this build to have the capability to run low speed high torque for larger holes and i may end up buying a bench top drill press for the smaller stuff.


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## Joe in Oz (Jul 11, 2018)

That Duss drill is a brilliant drill! Worth a fortune!
I have one and use it a lot attached to a magnetic stand. NOTHING will stop it.
Oh, mine is a similar model to yours from the early 1970s. Duss still has EVERY part as spares!!!! (I contacted them)


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## GoceKU (Jul 11, 2018)

Joe in Oz said:


> That Duss drill is a brilliant drill! Worth a fortune!
> I have one and use it a lot attached to a magnetic stand. NOTHING will stop it.
> Oh, mine is a similar model to yours from the early 1970s. Duss still has EVERY part as spares!!!! (I contacted them)



I have only good experience with german tools particularly Duss, i've never had one fail on me, i found this brochure for my drill , surprising how expensive it is, i'll keep my eye open for more on the tool market.


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## brino (Jul 11, 2018)

So wait, how did we make the jump from "Duax" to "Duss"?
Is it a language thing, or regional knowledge?
Or you guys just know your tools?

Thanks for any clarifications!
-brino


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## GoceKU (Jul 12, 2018)

Duss is the manufacture, Duax is the model, the drill has both names on it, my label is little dirty, here is another one from the net you can more clearly see the DUSS in red.


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## brino (Jul 12, 2018)

GoceKU said:


> Duss is the manufacture, Duax is the model



Thanks Goce!


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## KBeitz (Jul 25, 2018)

Guess i live in a different world. I have over 20 drill presses and I see around one a week that come in to our local junkyard. If you was closer I would give you one.


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## Superburban (Jul 25, 2018)

If he was closer, I would trade him a drill press for that hand drill.


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## GoceKU (Aug 3, 2018)

KBeitz said:


> and I see around one a week that come in to our local junkyard



It's a very different story here, my country is very young and machinery is hard to come by, the old machinist that own them, price them like they are made of gold, we have tool/flea market that some old machines are imported from germany and are sold but drill presses because of their size are not brought.


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## Ridjobradi (Nov 30, 2018)

GoceKU - Dober Dan moi prejatel. How are your projects going? I hope that you are well.

I used to live in Kumanovo.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## GoceKU (Nov 30, 2018)

Добар ден пријателе, I have a bunch of projects but they all have been put on hold because of Little 4x4 i'm fixing up plus i'm working one full time job and one more halftime so not much time for free activities.
I'm posting some of the ting i'm doing on the "PROJECT OF THE DAY" thread, Link: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...-in-your-shop-today.67833/page-30#post-626613


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## vtcnc (Dec 8, 2020)

@GoceKU - any updates on this machine build? Looked like you were so close to the finish line!


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## GoceKU (Dec 9, 2020)

Bryan, I have couple automotive projects ahead of it but i do plan to finish it.


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## vtcnc (Dec 9, 2020)

GoceKU said:


> Bryan, I have couple automotive projects ahead of it but i do plan to finish it.


I've been working on some of my projects and while my small 10" benchtop drill press is "OK", I can't help but feel the itch to get a larger floor drill press with lower speeds, more power, more throat, etc. Then I started looking and am kind of fixated on gear head drill presses. I stumbled into your thread and was wondering where you are at with it - so looking forward to seeing your build completed and what kind of results you get.

Thanks!


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