# What do I need to know about chucks before buying a four-jaw?



## Mauser lover (Sep 3, 2018)

Obviously, I'm a beginner! And this is a very beginner question! 

I'm looking to purchase a four-jaw independent chuck. How do I make sure it will attach to my machine? I've searched this site, as well as spending some time on that other forum where hobby guys are not as welcome... 

I've seen all sorts of advice regarding quality and cost and other stuff, but no information about making sure it fits! 

Now, I'm pretty sure there is a specification on every advertisement for chucks out there, but I'm missing it. What are the specs I need to know, and where can I find instruction on this sort of stuff? 

Short version... What chucks fit my lathe, and how do I tell? 

Thanks for the help!


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## francist (Sep 3, 2018)

There was some pretty good discussion here just last week, might get you started.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/getting-the-proper-chuck-size.72423/

-frank


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## mikey (Sep 3, 2018)

Easy. Look up the spindle specs on your lathe. It will tell you the configuration you need. Budget class lathes usually have a 3 or 4-bolt arrangement (usually with some DIN specification) and some of these also have a locking ring. Others spindles will be threaded with a thread specific to the model you have. Still others will have a camlock spindle, while industrial lathes have their own systems. It really depends on your lathe so which model do you have and maybe we can help you sort it out.


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## RJSakowski (Sep 3, 2018)

What is the make, model, size, etc. of your lathe?  What type of mount is used for mounting your chuck; thread on, D1-3, D1-4, etc.?


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## Mauser lover (Sep 3, 2018)

Uh-huh... It is a Millport 1236. I haven't found much of anything that I was sure was really it. 

I'm afraid my limited understanding and lack of experience is limiting my understanding of what ya'll are saying... I read that other linked thread. I can't reach that shelf! I'm going to need some sort of edumacation so I can reach that high... 

What in the world is D1-3, D1-4? 

I'll try to get a good (okay, decent) picture of what I've got already, and post it up tomorrow... 
What I know at the moment: My three jaw chuck attaches to a faceplate (I think that's what it is called) with three bolts. I have not been able to get the faceplate off. (I'm very determined. I tried once and gave up pretty quickly because I figured I might be doing something I shouldn't.) Should I try to get the faceplate off?


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## Creativechipper (Sep 3, 2018)

Hers some stuff on a D1-4 spindle, its the size of your spindle.

Most likely your trying to get the back plate off vs the face plate.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/d1-4-spindle-chuck-measurement-and-setup.10651/

Just a naming in the d1-4, I think, like  D8 dozer, size of equipment.
http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Lathe_Spindle_Mount.html


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## DAT510 (Sep 3, 2018)

If you could post more pictures of your lathe it would be helpful.  From the few pictures in your earlier post, it's difficult to tell how the face plate is mounted.  As mentioned by another member, your lathe looks like it could be part of the Jet 1024/1236 family of lathes, with the exception the lever in the upper left corner..... If it is part of the Jet family of lathes, then there's a good chance the chuck/face plate is mounted the same (which were threaded on to the spindle).





As it stands, one of your earlier pictures (pasted above) shows the face plate with the chuck removed.  So the style of chuck currently on your lathe appears to be a "plain back" chuck, as it's "plain back" mounts to the flat surface of the face plate.  But pictures will help us determine how the face plate is mount to your chuck.


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## john.oliver35 (Sep 3, 2018)

DAT510 said:


> If you could post more pictures of your lathe it would be helpful.  From the few pictures in your earlier post, it's difficult to tell how the face plate is mounted.  As mentioned by another member, your lathe looks like it could be part of the Jet 1024/1236 family of lathes, with the exception the lever in the upper left corner..... If it is part of the Jet family of lathes, then there's a good chance the chuck/face plate is mounted the same (which were threaded on to the spindle).
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Also, when you post pictures of the lathe headstock/faceplate, please also post a picture of the _back_ of the chuck you just removed!


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## Creativechipper (Sep 3, 2018)

It must be common for us new metal lathe people to be confused on getting a new chuck to fit.
 I figured in the paper manual of my lathe it would give a size that relates to a size listed with chucks. But it appears to be a little more complicated and like all things has multiple ways of getting the same results.
 I found this thread helpful...https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/lathe-chuck-mounts.7598/
 Thank god for all the helpful knowledgeable people on this forum who can give us some good direction.  Thanks


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## RJSakowski (Sep 3, 2018)

This may help in understanding various chuck mounting  schemes.
http://www.usshoptools.com/NEW_WEB_2012/current_catalog_pdfs/mm_level_3_pdfs/101060_21.pdf


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## BaronJ (Sep 4, 2018)

Hi Guys,

Looks like a threaded onto the spindle backplate.  Can't see the front of it to determine if it has a register.  You could use the diameter of the backplate as a guide for the chuck diameter.


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## Mauser lover (Sep 4, 2018)

Okay, short on time, so I'll just post the pics and come back when I can... 

Is it polite to post the whole picture, or am I supposed to do thumbnails? I did full pics this time... And why did some of them double and not all of them?!? Oh well...


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## DAT510 (Sep 4, 2018)

From the pictures it does appear to be a screw on face plate.  Below are the instructions for the Grizzly G9246 lathe which appears to be similar to yours...  the full manual can be found here:  https://www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/categories/jet-except-grinders.636/

As it is not the exact manual for your lathe, please use caution, as the instructions may not be correct for your lathe, and are presented as potential guidance for removing your face plate.  

Btw, Grizzly manual shows spindle clamps that need to be removed....On many of the earlier lathes like my Jet 1024, there were no spindle clamps. 

Hope this helped.


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## BaronJ (Sep 4, 2018)

Hi Guys,

Yes it does look like a screw on back plate and a six inch chuck.
I would reassemble your chuck and unscrew the whole lot.  I hope you marked the position of which stud went where.

Then you need to find the right back plate for your spindle.  I would buy one that is suitably machined so that it will just screw straight on.
After that you will need to get the chuck that you want that is the right size.
Your existing back plate is for a six inch chuck.  If you are buying a four jaw you might want to go to eight inch, so you would need an eight inch back plate.

I'll leave it at that for now because there is more to be done.


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## Mauser lover (Sep 5, 2018)

So... It seems that I've got three options...

1. Get a chuck that threads directly to my spindle.
2. Get a chuck that fits onto my existing backplate (maybe a bad idea, maybe impossible?)
3. Get a chuck with separate backplate that threads onto my spindle. 

With options one and three, it doesn't matter if I am getting a plain back or a D1-4 or whatever other style, right? I just have to get the right thread size? 

Option two, all I need to do is get a chuck that fits a "plain back" backplate? (Assuming it is the same diameter, which looks to be 6.5 inches? Is that a 6 inch chuck if it is 6.5 inches diameter?)

Bad ideas? Which one is best? Which one is cheapest? I was actually looking at getting an eight or ten inch chuck already, so I'm guessing option two is already out. 

Thanks for the help.


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## mikey (Sep 5, 2018)

You have a threaded spindle so forget camlock chucks or any other kind of chuck. The only thing that will fit is either a chuck with an internal thread that matches your spindle or a back plate that is threaded to match your spindle. Along with the thread is the register, a shoulder or taper that the chuck or back plate must also match. The thread only allows the chuck or plate to spin on. What holds it concentric to the spindle is the register. The register is a physical feature of your spindle, behind the threaded section.

So, take the existing back plate off your lathe and measure the spindle thread. You need the OD and the thread per inch so you can identify the spindle thread. Once you know that, you need to figure out what spindle standard it fits. If that is an asian lathe then it is likely that it is a DIN standard. This standard will specify both the spindle size, threads per inch and the size of the register. Once you sort out that DIN standard then you can search for a chuck that will fit that standard. 

Your options are to find a chuck threaded to the DIN standards of your spindle or you can try to find a back plate that fits your spindle and mount a plain back chuck to it.


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## BaronJ (Sep 6, 2018)

Hi Guys,

I suspect Mauser will have a hard time finding a chuck with a threaded back (Narrow Body Chuck) to fit his spindle !

As far as buying a bigger chuck is concerned, as long as the jaws when stuck out don't hit the bed thats fine.  Even so I wouldn't fit a chuck any bigger than the one that the manufacturer would have supplied with the lathe, particularly with a screw spindle.


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## mikey (Sep 6, 2018)

BaronJ said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I suspect Mauser will have a hard time finding a chuck with a threaded back (Narrow Body Chuck) to fit his spindle !
> 
> As far as buying a bigger chuck is concerned, as long as the jaws when stuck out don't hit the bed thats fine.  Even so I wouldn't fit a chuck any bigger than the one that the manufacturer would have supplied with the lathe, particularly with a screw spindle.



Agreed. I would think an 8" chuck would be about the max, and even at that I suspect 90% of the work that can be done on a 12" lathe could be done with a 6" chuck. It isn't just about what the swing will fit; it is also about what the spindle bearings were designed to handle.


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## Mauser lover (Sep 6, 2018)

mikey said:


> Agreed. I would think an 8" chuck would be about the max, and even at that I suspect 90% of the work that can be done on a 12" lathe could be done with a 6" chuck. It isn't just about what the swing will fit; it is also about what the spindle bearings were designed to handle.



How dare you?! Talking me into cheaper tools!? I came here because I thought everyone here was in the business (or hobby) of talking everyone into more expensive tools! 

Really though... Thanks for that suggestion on the sizing, and the help so far with all my questions. It seems that these size lathes generally ship with a six inch three-jaw and an eight inch four-jaw and a twelve inch faceplate (as far as tooling for holding workpieces go). I only got this six (ish) inch three-jaw when I purchase it, but I'd guess that it should be able to handle an eight inch four-jaw chuck. 

I'm going to be short of time for the next couple of months, but I'll try to pull that backplate off this weekend and have a look at the spindle and see whats going on back there...


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## BaronJ (Sep 6, 2018)

If you have a good look at your faceplate you will be able to get all the information you need for a backplate.  There is no difference apart from size.


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## Mauser lover (Sep 6, 2018)

I didn't get a faceplate with the lathe. Unfortunately. Fortunately... I did realize this when purchasing it...


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## mikey (Sep 7, 2018)

Mauser lover said:


> How dare you?! Talking me into cheaper tools!? I came here because I thought everyone here was in the business (or hobby) of talking everyone into more expensive tools!
> 
> Really though... Thanks for that suggestion on the sizing, and the help so far with all my questions. It seems that these size lathes generally ship with a six inch three-jaw and an eight inch four-jaw and a twelve inch faceplate (as far as tooling for holding workpieces go). I only got this six (ish) inch three-jaw when I purchase it, but I'd guess that it should be able to handle an eight inch four-jaw chuck.
> 
> I'm going to be short of time for the next couple of months, but I'll try to pull that backplate off this weekend and have a look at the spindle and see whats going on back there...



Oh, just hang around us for awhile and give us an opportunity. We will definitely help you spend your money - it is our solemn responsibility to do so! However, most of us will try to help you do so wisely and that was my intent here. Here is an excerpt from Logan Actuator on sizing chucks for their lathes: http://www.lathe.com/faq/#_Toc95180284

_*What is the right size chuck for this lathe?*_
_*2.13..      Logan supplied a 5” 3-jaw chuck and a 6” 4-jaw chuck for their 10” lathes.  Logan supplied a 6” 3-jaw chuck and a 6” 4-jaw chuck for their 11” lathes.  Larger chucks were available, but they are impractical on these lathes because the jaws would hit the bed when the chucks were opened.  Larger chucks are also heavier, so they put a strain on the spindle and spindle bearings.  In general, use the smallest possible quality chuck for the job.*_

I always thought this to be wise advice. I own an Emco 11" lathe and while I could easily fit an 8" 4 jaw chuck on it, I prefer a 6.5". I don't do huge work pieces that would require an 8" chuck and given that the max safe operating work piece weight for my spindle is 99# when held by the chuck alone or 176# with tailstock support, I don't see that I would benefit from that large a chuck.

My point is that you should think carefully when choosing tooling for your lathe. If you have a need for a large chuck and your spindle and bearings can handle the weight (the combined weight of the chuck and the work piece) then go for it. However, if you are choosing a chuck based on what will fit or that you think you might need it "someday" then hmmm, think twice. In over 30 years on a hobby lathe I have never needed to turn a work piece that would require an 8" chuck. Obviously, your needs and the needs of others will vary but just be clear on Need vs Want.


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## Mauser lover (Sep 7, 2018)

Must..... Build.... Cannon!

Joking, but it is good to hear that perspective every now and then! I don't have any solid specs on what my spindle/bearing will take, so it is as much a guess at this point as anything else, as far as my part goes.


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## mikey (Sep 7, 2018)

Don't take it too seriously. Most 12" lathes come with an 8" 4 jaw chuck. The spindle should be able to handle it.


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## Mauser lover (Sep 8, 2018)

Okay, got the chuck off, the major diameter of the threads on the spindle LOOKS to be 2 1/4 inches in diameter with my highly calibrated Stanley tape measure. I am pretty sure eight threads per inch is correct though, unless there is some metric equivalent that is SOOOO close... Here's a pic in case it helps... or not. 

I was putting off buying another caliper, 'cause I've got one already, it is just three thousand miles away! Moving three quarters of the way across the USA one pickup load at a time has its disadvantages... I've got one coming now anyway, because I don't like living without something akin to precision measuring instruments.


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## DAT510 (Sep 8, 2018)

You're lucky,  2-1/4" x 8 tpi is one of the more common sizes for screw on chuck back plates & face plates.  Much easier than the 2" x 8 tpi of my Jet 1024.  

Watch eBay.  They come up quite often.  

Also Shars and others have them on the shelf.  http://www.shars.com/products/workholding/lathe-chuck-adapter-back-plates?mounting=2-1/4+-+8

I'm guessing you could probably purchase a chuck and back plate as a set from Shars.


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## Mauser lover (Sep 9, 2018)

Sounds good. Would it be good practice to make my own backplate? Or not worth it?


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## SubtleHustle (Sep 9, 2018)

They are ALL crazy! No matter how sane one seems, she will turn out to be a headache....oh wait, you said "chucks", not  "chicks"... in that case, I agree with Mikey, except I only use a 6", and so far I haven't needed anything bigger.


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## BaronJ (Sep 10, 2018)

Mauser lover said:


> Sounds good. Would it be good practice to make my own backplate? Or not worth it?



I would buy a nice cast iron or steel back plate and get on with fitting your new chuck.


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## Mauser lover (Sep 10, 2018)

Alrighty... It's going to be a while before I pick up a chuck though, probably. Either a really good deal has to come along on the fleabay, or my tool fund needs to get replenished enough to purchase a decent deal or a brand new one. The trouble with being into machining as a "hobby" is that the funds put into it have to be justifiable at the time! That and I'm just slow. 

Thanks for the help all!


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## BaronJ (Sep 10, 2018)

Hi Mauser,

I'm retired and I agree with you about funds.  You might have noticed that I mention that I pick up bits and pieces from scrap yards, thrown out junk etc.  In fact anything that could be re used.  It helps economise the pennies. 

Didn't you mention that you had a faceplate !  Well if so you already have something that can be utilised to hold odd shaped workpieces.
Basically a large chuck.  Now you just have to be creative.  But do so with safety in mind !


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## Mauser lover (Sep 10, 2018)

No, my mention of a faceplate was a slip of the tongue, er... fingers. I meant to say backplate. The ONLY thing I have to hold workpieces is a six inch three-jaw chuck, with its matching backplate. 

Although, now that you mention it, I could just get a faceplate and make do until I really NEED the four-jaw... I'll keep my eyeballs peeled...


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## macardoso (Sep 10, 2018)

I have the Enco version of that lathe.  It is a 2.25x8 TPI spindle (double check yours with calipers tho).  Check out small tools in Euclid OH (They have an ebay page). Their China brand "SAVON" 8" 4 Jaw chuck came with a backplate for under $150. I've been pleased with it. 

Not seeing the 8" right now, but here is the 6". 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SAVON-6-4-...224731?hash=item282332d11b:g:rU8AAOSw44BYEhui


Also if you want some info on your lathe (and my struggles) here is a little read:

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/enco-12x36-lathe-rebuild-picture-heavy.68660/#post-574827

Edit: I use my 4 jaw at least 75% of the time. It is a worthwhile investment, maybe second to a Quick Change Tool Post (QCTP).


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## Mauser lover (Sep 10, 2018)

Actually... that looks pretty good! 
But.... whats this? From the ebay page, "IMPORTANT: The adapter pilot needs machined to our specifications." 

What are they talking about? What needs to be machined, and whose specifications? I think I'm going to bookmark them!

Hey, you got your lathe without four-jaw or faceplate too! Yours looks pretty significantly different than mine, at least in the ancillary bits. Mine doesn't have nearly the gearbox yours has! Also, if I remember correctly, my spindle bore is something like a quarter inch bigger (which is what kinda sold me on this particular lathe, when I saw how big it is. Aftermarket modification? Bad engineering? Dunno, but it's big.). Mine is not a gap-bed like yours or the Grizzly, either.


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## BaronJ (Sep 10, 2018)

Hi Mauser,

Yes you will have to machine the faceplate to suit the chuck !  There is a recess in the back of the chuck that the faceplate will have to be machined to suit.  This recess locates the chuck concentrically and determines the accuracy.  Though for an independent four jaw is not as critical as it is for the three jaw self centering chuck.


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## macardoso (Sep 10, 2018)

Mauser lover said:


> Actually... that looks pretty good!
> But.... whats this? From the ebay page, "IMPORTANT: The adapter pilot needs machined to our specifications."
> 
> What are they talking about? What needs to be machined, and whose specifications? I think I'm going to bookmark them!
> ...



For the first part, the face a pilot diameter (the little nub sticking out on the front) are left slightly oversize so you can take a truing pass with your lathe once seated on the spindle.   I also found that the internal diameter on my backplate was a touch small. The process is, mount the backplate backwards on your spindle (thread it on) and bore the internal diameter +.0005 over the diameter behind the threads on your spindle.  Take it off, clean the threads really well, then thread it on the correct way (make sure it fully seats on the shoulder of the spindle). Then take a skim cut all the way across the face (use the power cross slide) and turn the pilot to -.0002 to -.0005 of the chuck mating feature.  then bolt your chuck on.  It isn't hard and eliminates axial runout.  You should do this with any threaded spindle attachment.

It looked at first glance to be similar to mine, sorry that I didn't catch that it was significantly different.


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## Mauser lover (Sep 10, 2018)

Thanks for the explanation on that. 

I've had several people tell me it is similar to something else, but they always end up being a little bit different. And some of the stuff seems like it could be just an older model (lack of a gap bed, metric thread, maybe just an older production run?). Who knows at this point! I've gotten quite a bit of good information from those "similar" lathes' manuals though. So, it's always good to read through their manuals and at least get an idea of what's going on.


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## BaronJ (Sep 10, 2018)

All the face plates I've seen that have been finished to suit a particular lathe spindle have already been machined to suit the register.
Are you saying that even though they are threaded, you still have to machine them to suit your machine register ?


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## Mauser lover (Sep 10, 2018)

Waaay over my head! Whats a register?


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## BaronJ (Sep 10, 2018)

Sorry that question was directed to Macardoso.

We both posted at the same time.


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## BaronJ (Sep 10, 2018)

Mauser lover said:


> Waaay over my head! Whats a register?


 It is the smooth area behind the threads.


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## macardoso (Sep 11, 2018)

BaronJ said:


> All the face plates I've seen that have been finished to suit a particular lathe spindle have already been machined to suit the register.
> Are you saying that even though they are threaded, you still have to machine them to suit your machine register ?



I got one that the register was undersized 10 thou, took a week to figure out why it wouldn't thread on the spindle. I just bored it to the correct size.  If they are correct from the factory, great! One less step.

This might have just been a one-off issue?


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## BaronJ (Sep 11, 2018)

Hi Macardoso,

You had me bothered there   I've just bought a new 125 mm chuck back plate, it came on Monday, I've not unpacked it yet.
If I have to start machining the register on a new stainless steel one, I'm not going to be happy !  They are dear enough as it is.

I'll report back on this one...


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## MrWhoopee (Sep 13, 2018)

Here's a pretty good deal on a 160mm 4-jaw independent chuck. 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Four-Jaw-I...017736?hash=item23a873d0c8:g:-hQAAOSwpaZbfhxF
It doesn't state that it's a Sanou, but the K72-160 part number is a Sanou number.
I bought one of these for my SB Heavy 10L, which also has a 2-1/4 - 8 spindle nose. It's a nicely made chuck, though the jaws were very tight and required quite a bit of lapping (320 grit wet-or-dry  on a flat plate) to make them move without both hands on the chuck wrench.
It doesn't come with the threaded backing plate, that will have to be purchased separately.


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## BaronJ (Sep 13, 2018)

BaronJ said:


> Hi Macardoso,
> 
> You had me bothered there   I've just bought a new 125 mm chuck back plate, it came on Monday, I've not unpacked it yet.
> If I have to start machining the register on a new steel one, I'm not going to be happy !  They are dear enough as it is.
> ...



Hi Macardoso,  Guys,

Well I've unpacked my new one and it fits like a glove.  No machining of registers here.




I,m happy with this.  Those rust stains will vanish when I machine it.


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## macardoso (Sep 14, 2018)

BaronJ said:


> Hi Macardoso,  Guys,
> 
> Well I've unpacked my new one and it fits like a glove.  No machining of registers here.
> 
> ...




Boy that is a pretty backplate!


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## aliva (Sep 14, 2018)

I just posted a 4 jaw on the for sale board. It might work for you


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## Mauser lover (Sep 15, 2018)

Had a look at it, and it sure looks nice, but it is out of my price range for now. Thanks though!


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## Dabbler (Sep 15, 2018)

Mauser lover, you are on the right track.  Until you get more used to accurate turning and threading, it is best to buy off-the-shelf.  (besides it is faster to get up and going).  Even if it   is costly, you won't regret it.  A 4 jaw chuck is basic equipment after all!


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## Dabbler (Sep 16, 2018)

Have a look at this video and it's part 2.  I think it will help.






This one is also pretty good


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## Mauser lover (Dec 1, 2018)

Picked up a (well-loved, by all appearances. Looks pretty good, used, but taken care of) Skinner four-jaw six inch off the fleabay! Hopefully everything works out well when I get it! 

Comes with a backplate that should fit. If I understand correctly, I'll have to screw the backplate onto the spindle and machine it so everything is concentric/true and then put the chuck on, right?


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## DAT510 (Dec 1, 2018)

If the backing plate has already been fitted to  the chuck and the backing plate has the correct diameter, treads and register for your spindle, I'd just screw the hole assembly on and check the chuck for trueness, before machining anything.  

If the backing plate and chuck have never been mated to each other before, then yes, most likely you will need to go through a truing and alignment process.  

I was fortunate with a screw-on backing plate/chuck assembly I picked up, that it aligned almost dead on when I first screwed it to my spindle.  All it took was some fine adjustment of the chuck to the backing plate, and I had it holding less than 0.001" run out.


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## BtoVin83 (Dec 1, 2018)

This picture may help. V threads are typically non-centering hence the register on the lathe spindle to keep it centered. You do not want to alter it because then all the chucks will need to be altered to fit. Machine or polish out the bore on the backing plate so that it fits snug, any play will allow it to not center correctly. (this is more important on self centering chucks, i.e. the part). You may encounter both types of backing plates, one (A) will have to have the register machined in it or the other (B) may need to be trimmed to match your chuck. The closer the fit the better off you are. The other reason not to alter the spindle register or the chuck internal register is than the backing plate becomes sacrificial and is easier to replace. Making a proper backing plate for a beginner is quite an undertaking. Hope this helps


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## Mauser lover (Dec 2, 2018)

Okey doke, the backplate is already attached to the chuck (at least the pics on the fleabay showed it that way), and the threads are supposed to match. If they don't actually match my machine, I'll have to get a new backplate and make it fit the chuck, but I have great hopes and expectations (whatever that's worth). We'll see in a week or so! Well, I'll see it in a week or so, but I probably won't have time to jump right on it and see if it is perfect. 

And no, absolutely nothing on the spindle is getting touched with anything more abrasive than a toothbrush. 

I was thinking I would be cutting a couple thousandths off the register on the backplate just to make sure it is concentric. If the runout is not bad, I'm not even going to worry about it for now. It's an import lathe from the '80s. I'm not going to be doing any REAL high precision work on it.


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## BtoVin83 (Dec 2, 2018)

It's a good idea to use antiseize on the spindle register as this fit is usually really close, you don't want to seize the backing plate on the spindle. The fit needs to be tight for two reasons. one to center the plate and the other is to transfer the moment (load) to the portion of the spindle beyond the threads other wise the spindle can develop cracks at the last thread.


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## BaronJ (Dec 3, 2018)

Hi Mauser,

I don't use anything other than oil on my lathe spindle register and threads.  It is very important to keep those areas completely clean.
I use a fresh clean paper towel and a toothbrush first on the threads of both the spindle and the chuck backplate, then liberally oil them both. Screw the chuck on and then wipe off the excess oil.  If you don't wipe afterwards you will get an oil bath from the thrown off spray.


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