# Clausing 6300 x 12"



## rotormotored

Hi to anyone out there in Clausing lathe land,
I have a 6329, ... don't know the serial number. I'm having a difficult time trying to get mine back together. I took the headstock apart and I'm trying to put my spindle back in. Not having much luck with it. I've tried heating it and I even made a puller to try to pull the bull gear back towards the bearing. There are key ways that have to be lined up, I know. So if anyone out there would like to try, I'd be glad to ship it to you. I do have someone who says they can fix it but I'm willing to let someone who knows what they are doing go for it.
Ed


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## rotormotored

Yeah I was hoping there would be somebody out there who could help me but I guess not. There just isn't that many of these around. I guess I've got my work cut out for me.
Ed


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## Tony Wells

I expect that gear is pressed or shrunk on. If you can't move it with your puller, and you're sure it is up to the task, then it likely is shrunk on. That will require a fair amount of heat, then perhaps your puller will move it.

A quick glance through a few Google hits tells me you aren't the only one with this dilemma.


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## rotormotored

Hey Thanks for your reply Tony,
Yes I've contacted a guy out here in Fullerton, Ca. who does this type of work for a living. I'm thinking of just letting him deal with it. But since it's apart like this, I wonder if it would be unwise to NOT replace the bearing. I want to but I don't think I can afford it right now. I really do need to get this back up and running though, ... decisions, decisions. 
I guess I better start pricing bearings. I'll see if I can find a pic.
Yes, I found some pics for you. I did try to heat it but I guess I couldn't heat it enough. I figured that it wouldn't need that much heat. Just enough to help it expand just a little. I got kind of close to one of the plastic tubes for the oil pump. I didn't ruin the tube but that made it kind of difficult for me. ..... Maybe I was just a little scared that I would damage it. I started to tighten on my puller but it started to bend. If it's going to be thiis puller, it has to be modified again. I can try to take a picture of it ans post it tomorrow. You can tell me what you think.
Ed


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## Tony Wells

Real lathe bearings can be a bit costly, so I'd examine them carefully under magnification if necessary to see if it is warranted. Of course, the argument could be made that now is the best time to replace them if necessary, so it might be a good idea anyway.

Forgive me if I mention the obvious, but have to checked for any burrs or dings in the spindle OD? The gear? Can you get accurate measurements of both pieces to see just how tight they are supposed to be? Could it be that there is a bit of surface contamination on one or both parts?

That will be a nice lathe once you get it going.


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## rotormotored

Hey Tony, you got me thinking ... again,
I thought that maybe, just maybe, I should have another look at it. I'd like to double check to if there any burrs or nicks on that spindle or that bull gear. And, I think I wil have a look at the bearing with a 10x magnifying glass, this time.
I also thought I'd improve on my puller assembly.
I think that you are right about needing much heat on that bull gear. I mean more than what can be applied with a heat gun. 
I tried it with a propane torch the other day but I think that still wans't enough. I think I am going to have to heat it outside of the headstock and then somehow put in place. Then slide the spindle in and then install the puller. It will take about a minute or so to set all that up.
Now as far the puller goes, I have an idea. I'm going to have to add another piece that will have to go under the spindle, then screwed on to the main piece of the puller. I'll have to draw it up.
Anyway here's some pics of my rig.


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## Tony Wells

It may sound extreme, but without gussets, your puller/pusher isn't all that strong. Don't be afraid to put a good bit of tension on it with the puller/pusher, then use a dead blow hammer to give it a little shock pressure (whack it good). Just be sure everything is lined up. Really close fits, or interference fits must be perfectly aligned before advancing along a shaft. A wee bit cocked, and you will start galling and you don't want that.

If you think you can work it quickly enough, put the spindle in the freezer for a couple of hours, and apply heat to the bull gear. Be quick, and you might be surprised at how easy it goes. Also, don't be afraid to take a little ScotchBrite to the shaft, and the inside of the gear. You don't want anything there that might pick up a bit of metal from the other member and start a gall.


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## rotormotored

Thanks again for all these great pointers, 
I think I will really give it an honest and well planned effort this time. Today I broke it down some more and then about it somemore. Do I really need to take the headstock off the bedways? This is my dilemma right now. I'm beginning to think that I might as well because I want to paint it .... then I thought I should start making plans to completely go through it .... but am I getting ahead of myself.
Question: If you were going to install the spindle like I am, would you do it with the headstock on the bed or off??? It seems to me that it would be easier to leave it on ... or maybe you have experience doing something similar. Once I have the headstock all put back together, I can still remove as one piece and paint it then ... Right?
My apologies for seeming like I'm all over the place but I guess I just need to take one step at a time .....

Yes you are right about my puller/pusher not being strong enough. I saw it flex and then when I loosened it, it went back to it's normal shape. As far as gussets are concerned, I do need to find a way to fab something up and fit it into a small space. I do have a couple of ideas.
But first things first. I do need to get that spindle and bull gear out and I need to inspect the bearing under magnification then decide if I'll be buying a new bearing .... Then we'll see.
Thanks again for sharing your expertise with me sir. I hope you would mind too much if I'm contacting you here as I go. I'll take plenty of pictures so as to document this whole experience .


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## rotormotored

Well I've had a closer look at my spindle bearing and it looks pitted to me. These pictures are not The greatest but I think anyone who looks at it can tell. I'll post the pics and you all can weigh in and tell me what you think. I still have the bearing on the spindle because I don't have an arbor press tall enough to press it off. 
I found a long piece of scrap aluminum approximately 3/8 thick and cut out a section just wide enough to wrap around the O.D. of the spindle so it sits on the inner race of the bearing. I'll have to hunt down a friend of mine who has a good size hydraulic press and see if he'll let me use it.
I hope some you do will give me some input on this. I think there will be a general consensus on this decision to replace the bearing.


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## Tony Wells

If it were mine, I'd replace the bearings. That roughness will eventually show up in your finishes. Take your time, find a press suitable and do the job right. It won't be easy, but it will be worth it.


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## rotormotored

Yes I think your right Tony.
Thank you again.


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## FarFar

My 9 inch Boxford lathe got a set of stock standard bearings for X mas.
One Swedish and one Chinese .
Turning was neither better or worse than the fifty year old high precision Timken that would have cost more than 300 dollars to replace.
Standard to day is better than exceptional fifty years ago(for bearings)

Regards

Niels


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## rotormotored

So Standard bearings are just as good as Timkin bearings but less expensive?


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## Tony Wells

Timken is just a brand name, as is SKF, Fafnir, and a couple of others. The price difference should be mainly in the grading of the bearings, as far as fit. High precision bearings, as are expected in machine tools do typically cost quite a bit more. Depending on what type of work you want to do, it may not be worth it. As long as you can afford it, get the precision bearings. Otherwise, do the best you can.


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## FarFar

Hello Rotormotored

Sorry for being unclear.
My experience is that a SKF and a Chinese bearing are at least as good as fifty year old Timkens of special lathe grade (and VERY expensive if buying new to day.)


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## rotormotored

Interesting, I will have to shop around and compare. I'll keep you all posted.
Ed


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## rotormotored

* Clausing 6300 x 12" Teardown *

Hi everybody, Well I was on here and typed a in a decent play by play along with pics. But alas, I think I may have overwhelmed the server and it wouldn't let me post it. Maybe it just took me too long and it logged me off, .. don't know.
Anyway, I thought I'd just try post again but this time bit by bit.
Here goes: Well I managed to make a realization that "Yes" there is another tapered roller bearing that is located on the aft end of the spindle. I managed not to see it mostly because as I was attempting to reinstall my spindle, I had left all the gears/ oil pump/collars etc. in place by running a piece of safety wire through them all. So as not to forget where they belong and in proper order. In doing so, I left in a spacer at the left side or aft end of the spindle, if you will. When I decided that this was now going to be a complete tear down, inspection and rebuild/restoration, I all those above mentioned items out of the headstock housing. And to my shock and amusement, there was that "Other Bearing" that for some reason eluded me before.
So with that said, here are some pics for you. You guys can probably tell what my next plan of action will be.


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## rotormotored

Hi Bill, I'll get those dememsions for you here in a couple of hours. I am open to "other" options.
Ed


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## rotormotored

Hey Bill,
Here are my bearing dimensions. I hope this will give you enough info.
I'm not sure about the O.D. because I measured at the roller cage O.D. I tried to measure the actual O.D. with the roller and that came out to 3.210" at it's widest. The only difference between the two is the I.D. The front is 1.934" and the rear is 1.875". The cone/ cup is the same P/N 362 A(TIMKEN).
Please let me know if more info is needed.
Ed


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## Tony Wells

Generally, a tapered bearing can be spec'd with the bore size for the shaft, the OD of the outer race, and the thickness.

A number usually can be cross referenced to any make that has a substitute.


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## rotormotored

Hey there Tony,
Well then that should be enough info for Bill. I brought the bearings home with me just in case he needed more info.
Thanks Tony. That's good information.
Ed


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## rotormotored

*Clausing 6300 x 12" tear down*

Well here I am again to pick up where I left off on my telling of this experience.
Once it was decided that this machine would be gone through and restored, I then figured that I had better get the headstock off. The thing that was kind of making it difficult was that the gear guard plate and having drive gear and idler gear still installed. I was able to very gently pry them off then remove the oil seals that were behind them. Once I had these items removed I probably could have just pushed the head stock towards the tail stock so that the 2 bolts could then be wrenched out. But I was still going to have remove the gear guard at some point so I continued at that.


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## rotormotored

Yes I will keep my fingers crossed and I will be eagerly awaiting your messege.
Ed


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## rotormotored

I live in Bermuda Dunes about 30 miles east of Palm Springs. Between Palm Desert and Indio, right off of I-10. It's just down the mountain from you. I'd gladly drive up to buy them from you.


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## rotormotored

Ye Sir, you are correct. I don't think I would drive to connecticut for some bearings. I guess I did read you wrong. My apologies. But it would be very cool to meet with you and enjoy some coffee and some good machining conversation. I'm sure I could learn something. I like to give tours of my work place to friends and family and I especially like it when the kids can come and look at the helicopter I work on. Maybe when in the neighborhood you might be interested and can come by also.
And yes I would need the bearings sooner then that. I'll be looking for your message in the morning.
Thanks, Ed


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## rotormotored

I much appreciate the effort Bill. Thanks anyway. Have fun.
Ed


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## Grandtools

I wouldn't be afraid to use standard bearings in that lathe. Unless you are doing super precision work and running high spindle speeds they should work fine. I just may have another option for you though,, I have parted out a 6300 Clausing and if,, (BIG IF) the bearings are still there AND they are in good shape, I may have bearings for you. It's been a few years since I tore that lathe apart and just not sure what's left. It's at another building I have and I probably won't be there for a few days, but I can check if you still need them.


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## rotormotored

I'll hope for the best with that big if. I'd like to know if you have the whole head stock. Even if it's in pieces. I think standard bearings should be fine. I'll try to give them a call this week if I can. I won't be in my normal working enviroment and I'll have look like working and that makes it difficult to spend time on the phone but I'll see what I can find out. I found a dealer ( Impact Bearings) that sells Timkens and for the same part number, they have normal bearings and "High precision" bearings for $311.00 for the front and $233.63 for the rear. I forgot to ask about the cup/cones so I don't know how much that would be total. The regular bearings ( same P/N ) were about $50.00 or $70.00. I don't think the lathe had the high precision bearings installed. I wonder if the regulars would be good enough.
I'm probably looking at about $700.00 roughly. If I can cut that by half and still get good quality bearings, then I think that will do.
But like I said, I'm interested in that headstock if you got it and I'd like to see pictures of it.
So YES, Mr, Grandtools I'm interested.


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## Grandtools

The headstock is there, but it's taken apart. I think I sold some gears out of it,, I just can't recall if the bearings and spindle are still there as I know I took it all apart.


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## rotormotored

Well, see what you got and please let me know.
Thanks, Ed


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## rotormotored

Hi again, I guess it was removing that cradle lock handle assembly with those two gears, the 35t as it's called in the parts breakdown, and the sliding gear that was preventing me from removing the gear guard plate so I could then gain access to the mounting bolts and finally remove my headstock. The gears came off fairly easy with a little prying persuasion and the same for the Handel. I was afraid I would really screw this up and the spring inside the handle would go flying and I'd be in trouble but I just kept prying a little more and it popped right off and the spring stayed in place, whew. It looks the said items are the only things this side of the gear guard plate for the gear box. We'll see what happens once I go to reassemble this machine.
Well let me not forget the over riding clutch assembly inside the cradle lock handle and it came off as one assembly-thankfully.


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## Grandtools

Ok, I finally got to it, and yes, I do have the bearings. So, if you still need them, let me know.


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## rotormotored

Hi, So you have that head stock for a 6300 clausing? I'll probably end up getting new bearings anyway but yes I am interested in the rest of the headstock and the bearings that you have.
What are you asking for it?
Where are you located?
Ed


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## Grandtools

It's apart and the bull gear and maybe a few other parts are gone. The spindle, bearings and feed drive gears are there. I'm located near Pittsburgh Pa.


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## rotormotored

Would it be possible for you to send some pictures? I'd like to see thses parts.
Ed


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## JB Enterprise

Hey grandtools don't want to hijack the thread but I just purchased a 6307 clausing and i need the chart that tells what thread and feed i am cutting it is jus tan empty glass were you cen see the red selector , and if you could explain how the drive works it has a 4 groov sheav conecting the motor to the drive unit and it has a handle that sticks out of the front of the cabinet with a chart that says push in pull out 1=4 different speeds and is ver confusing. any helpwould be great 

Justin Bowerman
JB Enterprise
07 FFL in Central CA.


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## Grandtools

I can't help re the speed change question as mine was a variable speed drive, and all those parts are gone anyway. As far as the feed chart, mine is there, but I don't want to sell it seperate from the feedbox.


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## rotormotored

Hey JB, I have the chart on paper for this lathe. I don't know if it's the same for yours but if you can use it, I can take a picture of it and post it here. Maybe that will help. The chart that is painted onto the clear plastic cover of the gear box has rubbed off on mine also.

Hey Grandtools, still here waiting on some pics and prices from you.

Ed


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## Grandtools

As far as pictures, that won't be until my next trip to the warehouse. I thought you were just looking for bearings, so I took those out and brought them here. Didn't think you wanted anything besides the bearings until you asked about the whole thing a few days ago. As far as price, I'll have to look at exactly how much is there. If you want the whole headstock, keep in mind its pretty heavy, so shipping wont be cheap.


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## JB Enterprise

That would b great

Justin Bowerman
JB Enterprise
07 FFL in CEN CAL


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## rotormotored

Hey JB, Here's a couple of pics I took just this morning. I hope this will helps. I'm thinking that your gearbox should be very similar to mine if not the same thing. It's a pic of the blue print I'm guessing so that it can be remade. I think it would be nice to have all that information engraved on that piece of plexiglass or whatever it is. That's what I'm intending for mine anyway.
If it isn't right then you can call clausing and ask them to send you a blue print. If you don't want to do that, let me know if you want me to make a copy and send it to you. I think your in central California, right? Your not that far away.
Ed


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## rotormotored

Hey GrandTools,
So what do you want for the bearings anyway?
Maybe it would be easier to ship the headstock piece by piece, @#@#@# Just kidding.
Ed


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## Grandtools

Ok, finally getting back with you here. I got tied up in a big project the past few weeks and didn't have much time, sorry. Anyway, I cleaned up the bearings and they look really good for used bearings. I want $35 for the set. As far as the headstock goes, most of it is there. The spindle is out, the chuck retaining nut is gone, the bull gear is there, the feed drive gears are there, along with the shifter, the drive pulley/gear. It looks like a few parts aren't there as I sold a few things from it a year or so ago. If you are interested in something specific we can check exactly what is there or not. That head is really heavy, I didn't weigh it, but guessing its 100# or so, making shipping a real killer. Just posting this &amp; the pics to give you an idea of whats left.


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## rotormotored

how much for the bearings and the spindle?
Ed


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## Grandtools

$100 for both the bearings and spindle,,, plus shipping cost.


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## rotormotored

*Bearings*

Hey Grandtools, 
I apolgize for not getting back to you sooner. I was confused on exactly how to use this website because of the changes.
I'll take those bearings and I'll hold off on that spindle for now. I may just get that from you later. 
Just let me know where to send the money.
Ed


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## rotormotored

*Pics*

Are all the pics I posted gone?
Ed


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## Grandtools

Yeah, the new format is confusing, this is the first time I've been here since the change. It would be best for you to contact me at: lathemill@juno.com to complete the bearing deal.  Doug


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## rotormotored

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Ok, Finally got my bearings!!!
I am in the the middle of trying to deal with an issue at work (my real job) and so when I can figure out what is going on, I am planning to start putting this head stock back together. In order to do this, there a couple of issue's to attend to.
I'll have to refurbish the spindle chuck nut and that's another issue all together. The nut has several holes which are used for the spanner and these holes are in pretty bad shape. I'd like to fill these hole by welding them then remachining the holes. I think this a viable alternative to spending more than $400.00 for a brand new nut from Clausing.
And of course, I must clean and inspect my spindle for trueness.
So I'll see what else comes up.
Ed


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## Tony Wells

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Welding will probably distort that nut unless you pre and post heat it. Likely to even then, but much less. Can you just cold plug them and drill holes between the old locations?


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## rotormotored

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Hey Tony,
What do you mean by cold plugging the holes?
Drilling holes sounds like a good doable alternative but I have a piece of steel that can be machined and I was thingking of making a whole new spindle nut all together. I'm thinking I can do it.
I think it sure would look a whole lot better.
 Then getting it heat treated ... would heat treating be necessary? I'm thinking that it may not be necessary because I don't think there's really that much torque on it ...
Your thoughts on this would be MUCH appreciated. I'll send some pics tomorrow and maybe you can tell me what you think.
Thanks
Ed


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## Tony Wells

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

By cold plugging I meant drilling/reaming the existing holes to a close size, then pressing lightly plugs into the holes. You could then turn them flush and they should not show much at all. Then put a new set of holes out of position from the old ones.

Making a new nut is OK, but depending on the material, you may not want to harden it. If you have pre-hardended 4140, for example, it should be fine as is. A ring will tend to distort from the quench, so it's a little guesswork to make sure the things is round enough to use. If you have annealed stock, it won't machine all that clean, and it will grow or shrink and distort. If you go that route, leave stock for finish machining. The nut doesn't have to be so hard you can't cut it, so no need to shoot for some exotic tool steel.


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## rotormotored

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Hi again Tony,
I found a piece of round stock just big enough to machine it down to the right dimensions but, .... I don't know what it is. 
So if it's just a piece of annealed stock like you mentioned, I'll have to leave that O.D. slightly larger so I can try to cut it smooth and leave it with some kind of finnish surface, right?
At the same time I'll see if I can locate some 4140 somewhere ... would 4130 work?
Ed


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## Tony Wells

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

4130 will be fine. Here's a chart of the main characteristics of 4130:

http://www.suppliersonline.com/propertypages/4130.asp

I've uses tons of it, mostly because of it's weldability advantage over 4140/42/45. Easier to process than those. If you're sure it's annealed, I'd get it Q & T up to the high 30's to low 40's Rc, and it sill be stable and still machinable. Unless you have an aversion to just doing a little polishing after heat treat, the OD can be either skim cut, or polished afterwards. If you want maximum strength out of it, 

In its annealed stated, I wouldn't use it for a spindle nut. Tensile and yield are too low. Hardness as annealed is around 197 Brinnell, with an ultimate tensile of 97,200 PSI. That's pretty low for a machine part. Of course, these properties give it a high elongation, and a high Reduction of Area. Useful for some things, but not for this. It's generally not practical to HT a single piece due to minimum furnace charges, but if you have a batch of the same material going over to the heat treaters, then by all means, get this done up to the high 30's. It will be machinable, but the tensile and yield will be just right.You might rough it out, leaving .100 all over, then finish it out after Q&T.


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## rotormotored

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Hey Tony,
That's a whole lotta metalurgy jargon that I am just not familier with ... yet. You knowlege on this subject is impressive. 
I did manage to find a piece of 4130 from an old school machinist who I have had the pleasure of meeting a couple of months ago. I don't think there are many guys like this around here anymore. I found him hidden in some small obscure shop just off interstate 10.

So I gather that from the data you have sent me, annealing will not be necessary if I am to use this piece of 4130 for this spindle nut....
Also, here are some pics of the nut, the material that I WAS going to use and the piece of 4130. This guy who gave it to me wrote "4130" on it so he would know what he had if he needed it in the future.
The thickness of this piece is almost exactly the same at one piont but I'll have to cut off approx. 1.5" of the O.D. I'll have to be careful on with the thickness when I go to face it. I just trying to plan this so I don't waist this piece.


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## rotormotored

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

I don't know what happened but my pics did not post. 
I'll try again later.
Ed


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## Tony Wells

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Well, annealing won't be necessary if the piece of material is a standard off the shelf quench and temper. It will be machinable, and strong enough. If, on the other hand, it is bought annealed, it really should be heat treated before you machine it.

Please note that I recommended Rc30 + when I gave the other hardness reference in Brinnell. Generally, the Brinnell scale, although it overlaps the lower end of the Rockwell C scale, is given for annealed and low end hardness readings/specifications in carbon and alloy steels.

Here's a handy chart, worth saving, of the many of the common scales and how they compare and cross in some cases.

http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-hardness.htm


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## rotormotored

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Hey Tony, 
Here those pics.
I think that I just going to assume it is off the self temper and quench. I'll make an attempt to machine this piece into what I need. I'm going to have to bet that this piece of 4130 will do. I just don't know anything about the shelf quench and temper. I must admit that I am a little confused because I would have thought that it would need to be heat treated after the machining process. But I guess I have much to learn yet.
I'll have a look at those charts and see if I can make heads or tails out of them anyway. I might just learn something.
The amount of information you have given me is somewhat overwhelming but I am much appreciative fot it.
Ed


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## rotormotored

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Another question,
I was already going to try to start machining this previously discussed piece of 4130 for my new spindle nut. I noticed that it is an extremley uneven piece. 
I mean it's out-of-round and it has been cut with a saw so it's very obviously uneven on that end also.
I mounted it in my 8 inch 4 jaw chuck and just trying to eyeball it so I can get it in the ball park then start cutting to get it round.
But then I thought about it, would it be better to find the center (as best I can) and drill a whole, then make mandrel then machine it round.
I have enough room for it. The piece is at least an inch over sized O.D. It's the height that is very close.
But once I have it drilled and mandreled, I can then hold it then machine down the O.D.
I think that would be a better plan ....don't you?
Ed


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## Old Iron

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Its to bad that your so far away cause I have a head out in my carport that seems to be good, Doesn't look like its ever been opened.

Paul


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## rotormotored

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Hey Paul, 
Do mean a head stock?
A head stock for this type of lathe?
Ed


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## Old Iron

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*



rotormotored said:


> Hey Paul,
> Do mean a head stock?
> A head stock for this type of lathe?
> Ed




Yes I'll try and get a picture later.

Paul


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## Tony Wells

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Ed, if I were tackling that job, I'd chuck the od, as you have done, then machine the ID complete, threads and all. Face that end as part of the operation. Bore through at finished size. Then make a threaded "spud", a facsimile of the spindle you want to fit. Measure the thread with wires, and make the spud identical to it. In fact, you could make the spud first, and use it as a thread for the nut. Now chuck the spud and screw the new nut onto it for finishing the OD and back face. Take the spud, with the nut screwed tight on it over to the mill and put the spanner holes in it, along with the beauty slots if you want them. You're done when you get the nut off the spud.


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## Old Iron

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*



	

		
			
		

		
	
Well heres what i have, Never got around to getting the rest so it prolly was scraped.

I'm keeping the spindle thread protector.


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## rotormotored

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Hey Tony,
That's sounds like a good plan of attack for this chapter of my lathe rebuild. But I'll tell you what, I know a guy who has a hardness tester and I know he'll let me test this piece of 4130. I think that should be my first move because my concern is that I do this job right.
So I'll see if I can get this piece over to him later today or tomorrow. And I'll take a pic of the reading and then you can make a recomendation. Because I don't think there's any way to tell wether this piece is off the shelf Q & T'ed. And after all we talking about hardness, aren't we?
 Meanwhile, I can start maching the spud.
The other concern I have is that I don't know how squarely I can mount it in the chuck. It seems to be deformed at the O.D. 
I tried turning it and it was pretty wobbly. But I guess from your advice you think I should face it then machine the bore first then cut down the O.D.
Ed


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## rotormotored

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Hi All,
I wonder why this website keeps getting hacked ....
Anyay, I did put this piece of 4130 on a Rockwell Phase ii hardness tester after a few tries we were able to come to an average of 50 on the B scale.
So if I 'm reading that chart that Tony sent me, I guess we're looking at the approximate tensile strength of no more than 73,000 psi.
I'm not sure if I am figuring this correctly.
Ed


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## Tony Wells

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Offhand, I'd say that bar is not Q&T. Here is a chart on 4130:

http://asm.matweb.com/search/SpecificMaterial.asp?bassnum=m4130r

And here is a bit of research into metallurgy of low alloy steels. Maybe you can catch a bit of info there. It's more than you really need to know, but knowledge is a good thing.

http://www.tppinfo.com/defect_analysis/yield_strength.html

In my judgement, that piece is not recommended for making the nut you need. The problem is getting it heat treated. Most treaters have a minimum for a furnace run that will probably be more than you want to pay. Maybe you could hold out for a more suitable piece, unless you have a friend in the ht business.


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## rotormotored

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Hey Tony,
I know that you are now the head hancho here at hobby-machinist so I was wondering if your new resposibilities prohibit you from answering questions.
I am really enjoyng the exchange we are having and as a result, I have had to do some researching and soul searching on this whole heat treating process.
So, my question today is probably a dumb one but, what the heck, here goes:
When I see the Rc behind a number, are you reffering to the Rochwell hardness tester "C" scale? I think I already know the answer to this but I am just in need of confirmation on this.
And what whould be the recommended range of hardness for my perticular application? .... I just thought of something ...
I'll take my old spindle nut to my friends shop and put it on the Rockwell hardness tester.  DUH! ...
I understand if you choose not to answer my question.
Ed


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## Tony Wells

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Ed, part of being Head Honcho means I'm not prohibited from ANYTHING! Certainly not from answering questions. That's why I joined here in the first place.

Yes, Rc means Rockwell hardness scale "C". If you search a little online about metal hardness and measuring it, there is quite a bit....more than you will need for this particular project. There are reasons behind each of the different scales, but that's a long story.

For your spindle nut, the original could be pretty hard. Some steels retain their toughness even though they are hard. Your 4130 is capable of a great compromise between hard and tough. It's difficult to alloy a steel that will allow both. The nut you are making should be high 30's to mid 40's Rc, In my opinion. That's still machinable, with a little patience and good tooling. If you felt like it needed to be harder, it wouldn't hurt it, but I would never recommend that 4130 be used in that way in the 50's. Bad spot in the compromise. Plus difficult to machine with common tooling.

Measuring the old nut is a good idea, but don't be surprised or disheartened if it is harder than you can practically work your new piece. Plus it's not impossible (thought unlikely I think) that it would be case hardened. You won't usually see that where there is the possibility of people hitting a part with a hammer or something. Just stick with 30-40 range, as above, and you'll have a perfectly serviceable nut.


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## rotormotored

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Well, it does machine very well as it is in it's current state.
I wonder what that means.


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## rotormotored

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Well this what my spud will mimic.
Probably another dumb question but does it matter what type of material I use for this.
I have a chunck of steel in mind and I don't know what kind of steel it is but I'm thinking that it really doesn't matter for the spud, right?
Ed


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## Tony Wells

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

It won't make much difference, other than how it machines. If it's hard, it won't be easy, but if it's not too hard, it will do just fine.


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## rotormotored

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Hey Rick, 
That sounds like a good idea. I'll try and chuck it in the morning and see if my 8 inch chuck will hold that back plate. That will eliminate that whole making of the spud procedure. I am trying to give it a nice finish and of course I want to be as true as I can possibly get it. I think I can get it to within .001".

On another note, my heavy 10 seams to have a the slippery belt problem ... again. So that will slow me down a until I can either replace the belt or clean it up again. I'm using the heavy 10 to do all this work and so now I'm noticing that I am not able to make heavy cuts because the the belt keeps slipping.
So today I decided to move forward on the rest of the Clausing. I want to continue to tear it down and strip the old paint off and then repaint it. I have the bedways with the apron and saddle still mounted on it so I disassembled that today.
I guess next I want to remove the bedways off the table top. There are the 4 bolts for securing it to the table aswell as for leveling, I suppose.
Is there anything I need to be aware of as I remove this from the table.
Ed


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## rotormotored

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

So anyway, back to the making of my spindle nut.
My apologies for the major delay in keeping this thread going but, you guys know how it is. I guess I'm one of those guys who just takes on more amore projects and then some of them get neglected and/or forgotten. 
So now I've come to the point where I begin to machine the internal threads of my spindle nut. I'm guessing that first I must determine what thread pitch or how many threads per inch I have so I can set up my lathe gear box. Right?
I also bought a thread wire set so I can determine exactly how many threads per inch I'm looking at.
So is that why I need to do the 3 wire measuring method? 
I guess I'm a little confused about this 3 wire method and what it is for exactly.
Please feel free to educate me.
Ed


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## joe kozak

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*



rotormotored said:


> Hey JB, Here's a couple of pics I took just this morning. I hope this will helps. I'm thinking that your gearbox should be very similar to mine if not the same thing. It's a pic of the blue print I'm guessing so that it can be remade. I think it would be nice to have all that information engraved on that piece of plexiglass or whatever it is. That's what I'm intending for mine anyway.
> If it isn't right then you can call clausing and ask them to send you a blue print. If you don't want to do that, let me know if you want me to make a copy and send it to you. I think your in central California, right? Your not that far away.
> Ed



 is there anywhere else at all that I can get these pictures from because my phone just is refusing to let me download them......    better living through overly controlled information I suppose   also I have a model 200 clausing pre atlas. serial number 243 I believe I am assuming that the gear ratios are probably the same in my quick change as yours...?


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## wa5cab

*Re: Clausing 6300 x 12"*

Ed,

The 3-wire method is for measuring pitch diameter, not pitch.  For pitch you need a pitch gauge, which looks something like a short piece of bandsaw blade with no tooth set.  I hope that you got the set of tables with the wires.  

Actually, you'd probably be better off calling Clausing and asking them for the specs on your spindle threads.  They still have some tech support for the older Clausing and Atlas lathes.

Robert D.


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