# New Precision Matthews 1022V lathe!



## Popawdon (May 4, 2014)

Well, about 6 weeks ago I was trying to use the Sherline lathe to learn to turn a piece of aluminum stock down to .5 inches and I burned out the stock motor.  I guess taking off 3 mlls at a time was just too much for it.  I was using a new, sharp HSS bit so I don't think I did anything wrong.  I was running about 350 rpm and the curl was coming off really great when the motor just stopped..with a big stink of burned magnet wire.  Took the motor apart and the white stuff around the armature fell out onto my work table.  So much for Sherline.

Since replacing the Sherline would cost $300 estimated, and I might just toast the new motor too, I looked at other lathes I might crater.  I liked the idea of 2 way power feed so I ended up with a Precision Matthews 1022.  I like it...since I rebuilt it.  When the crate came in, I took it out of the crate, called a much younger and stronger young man from across the street and we lifted it up on to my work table.  It sure looked nice (its "clean" but has oil all over it now because I live in Florida) so I could hardly wait to try it out.  Checked the electrical connections for proper voltage, made sure the ground was secure and fired the jewel up!  First thing was to turn down the aforementioned piece of aluminum!  It's swarf now!  Then, the first problem...the tool post stopped moving even though the wheel was spinning!  Tried to contact the seller, no response after three days (still none) so I opened the transport mechanism up to check the gears and found that the shear pin had literally fallen out.  It seems the the nice Chinese folks that make this machine use only ¼ of a pin...saves lots of money..snort..so I put a full length shear pin in and put things back together.  Ran very well except if I turned a cylinder the tail end was about 8 mls smaller than the chuck end.  After thinking about it (yes I was using the steady rest and the follower both) I moved the tail stock away from me about 3 mls and now over 18" I only have about a 1 mil difference.  (actually less than that but sometimes...)  So, because things seemed a little loose, I started taking things apart, cleaning and relubricating them and putting them back together.  Almost everything was loose.  Then, the lead screw nuts fell off on the tail end!  I got the machine stopped before the bearings joined the dirty rags on the floor...  Hadn't thought of that word since basic.  

So, put back together, things seem to be working so its time to to try threading on a lathe!  Turned the aluminum down just a little to smooth the surface and took off the end panel to install the proper gear sets for 20 tip..the first thing I notice was that the running gear set had a pair that was loose..not loose, the bushing bolt was stripped!  So, no worry, the seller will contact me soon!  Nope!  I put the old bolt back in long enough to turn a piece of brass bushing, used my hand taps to thread it, pulled the cross threaded bushing and installed the one I made...up and running again.  So, tomorrow I'm going to have a shot at making a duplicate of the factory bolt to replace my kludged one.  Oh, I forgot, yes, I got up and running and put another piece of aluminum on the lathe just to see how precise I could turn with the PM1022...I am very, very new to machining.  I have to work a while to be a nubie... So, I start the machine, put it in gear, turn 5 mils in both directions, then half way toward the tail end, the machine stopped...there is that word again!  Took the back off, horrible burnt odor@!!@%!%!%!$%@!@^@&  But, the smell is coming from the controller board and not the motor!  I look to see if anything shows having been burnt...nothing, then I lightly push a few components around...the resister they use to match the horsepower of the motor is loose!  One end is making intermittent contact with the board...I soldered it, defeated the interlock and tried the start button...success!  Yes, as I said before, I'm back in service....except, the drive is slipping on the lead screw again and it won't move the tool post!  

But, in all, although I have not really had the chance to do any machining, I now have a pretty good idea of what a lathe is supposed to do...so wish me luck tomorrow.  I really would like to learn how to do threading with a lathe....in fact I'd like to learn anything about using a lathe!:whiteflag:


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## chuckorlando (May 4, 2014)

Ah your learning either way. Sucks it aint what you wanted to learn but good to know all the same. I'm like you and just dive in. I "dont have time" to wait so I just figure it out.

Do you have a set of thread wires and a mic or a thread gage? You will need some way to check as you thread. You could use a test nut, but it's not ideal IMO.

Threading aint all that hard. The lathe does the hard work you just have to check it's work. ahahah

Good Luck brother


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## Popawdon (May 5, 2014)

chuckorlando said:


> Ah your learning either way. Sucks it aint what you wanted to learn but good to know all the same. I'm like you and just dive in. I "dont have time" to wait so I just figure it out.
> 
> Do you have a set of thread wires and a mic or a thread gage? You will need some way to check as you thread. You could use a test nut, but it's not ideal IMO.
> 
> ...


Thread wires? Have a mic...thread gauge?  Have test nuts...  Also have the internet so I'll know what I don't know soon...(impossible, right?)  Headed for the shop now.  Tell Momma the chips are on the way...


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## BellyUpFish (Jan 29, 2016)

Did you ever get this thing sorted out or hear from PM on your issues?

I'm ordering either this or the G0752 very soon..


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## tmarks11 (Jan 29, 2016)

Since the OP posted only three times here, and the last post was 17 months ago, I don't think you will be getting an answer from him.

If you are considering the G0752, then it is a no brainer to buy the PM1022V/1030V instead (similar price but with power cross feed).  If I were you, I would spring for the 1030 over the 1022.  Once you throw a chuck in the tailstock, 22" center-to-center gets kind of small.

Matt has an excellent reputation here (don't let the OP unsupported pithy comments concern you), and I would not hesitate to buy from him.  Be advised that Matt doesn't typically stock his merchandise, and some low-volume items (which the 1022/1030 definitely are), you will be waiting a few months for it to arrive.  If you order from Grizzly, you will get it next week.  Also you might consider the G0602 (1022 without variable speed).

Here are some more active threads you might look at, and maybe inquire of the owners for an updated review:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/pm-1022-v.38156/
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/joining-the-pm-club.37187/
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/about-to-order-a-pm-1022v-anyone-want-to-talk-me-down-lol.20728/


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## BellyUpFish (Jan 29, 2016)

Thanks. I'll follow one of them. One of them is mine from a while back.


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## tmarks11 (Jan 30, 2016)

BellyUpFish said:


> One of them is mine from a while back.


and so the circle of life closes....


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## 7milesup (Feb 1, 2016)

I purchased a PM1022 lathe a few months ago.  Matt was superb in answering my questions both before the sale and after.  Heck, I called him on a Friday just to talk to him a little bit about why I should choose his lathe over a Grizzly, and I ended up buying it over the phone.  First time I made a large purchase (large for me anyhow) without talking to the wife first.  Holy crap, what was I thinking.
Anyhow, I am pretty happy with the lathe.  There are a few things that I did not like and slowly correcting some of them.  First was the pivot point for the safety shield.  I ended up milling some oilite bearings and a new shaft for that part and it works sweet now.  Cost me about $7 in materials and it gave me an opportunity to play with my new toy.  Also took the headstock gearbox cover off because it was leaking oil, and this allowed me to clean out the bottom of the gearbox (the Chinese are terrible about cleaning stuff up before shipping), take out the sight gauge and re-gasket that and put new oil in the thing.  Would like to do the same thing to the apron but have not had the time yet.
I have never operated an older lathe like a South Bend or Hardinge, but I would imagine that they will run much smoother than the PM.  However, I could not find a used lathe that either was not 1.) junk or 2.) apparently made of solid gold.  I figure this lathe will be great to learn on and will certainly fulfill my needs for now.  Heck, there are many guys out there that make some really nice stuff on a Harbor  Freight mini lathe.
Oh, one of the reasons I chose PM was the 3 year warranty vs. Grizzly's 1 year, along with the fact that I thought Matt was a really honest nice guy to work with.


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## BellyUpFish (Feb 1, 2016)

Pretty sure I'm going to put a deposit on one this week.


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## lpeedin (Feb 2, 2016)

I'm sure the guys here will back me up on this:  The worst part of the decision to buy from Matt is the wait for the machine to arrive if it is not in stock.  However, once you get the call and it arrives at your door step, the wait is instantly forgotten as you are immediately overcome with the "kid on Christmas morning" feeling.  It is almost magical as you go from eager anticipation to feeling like your life is complete... Well, maybe not to that extent, but the wait really is forgotten once you have the machine in your possession!!


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## jclouden (Feb 2, 2016)

I picked up a PM1030V from Matt some months ago and am very happy with it.  I had a few minor issues (oil leak from loose oil view port, cracked fuse holder) but in general the lathe is capable of better work than I am.  I just placed my order with Matt for a PM727M and am looking forward to adding to my machining capabilities.

Jon


Sent from my SM-T700 using Tapatalk


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## BellyUpFish (Feb 10, 2016)

jclouden said:


> I picked up a PM1030V from Matt some months ago and am very happy with it.  I had a few minor issues (oil leak from loose oil view port, cracked fuse holder) but in general the lathe is capable of better work than I am.  I just placed my order with Matt for a PM727M and am looking forward to adding to my machining capabilities.
> 
> Jon
> 
> ...




Put a deposit on one today.


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## tmarks11 (Feb 10, 2016)

congrats.  Now it is time to be patient.   Did PM give you a delivery time frame?


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## BellyUpFish (Feb 10, 2016)

tmarks11 said:


> congrats.  Now it is time to be patient.   Did PM give you a delivery time frame?



He's got 1030's in stock, but I'm in the middle of building a house and am living in an apartment, so I've got no where to put it.

Hopefully less than 6 months. 

Researching one of these for it now..

http://www.eccentricengineering.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=2&Itemid


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## 7milesup (Feb 12, 2016)

BellyUpFish said:


> He's got 1030's in stock, but I'm in the middle of building a house and am living in an apartment, so I've got no where to put it.
> 
> Hopefully less than 6 months.
> 
> ...



Whoa!  That is cool.  I am new to machining (obviously) and that looks darn awful ingenious.  Has anyone tried that and does it really work as good as advertised.  Wonder what the limitations are.


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## BellyUpFish (Feb 12, 2016)

Supposedly it's pretty sweet.  All the guys I've talked to who use them love them. Use them for 99% of their work.

The biggest detractor I've read is many of the "purists" don't approve it for the beginner, because it's pretty much cheating, especially with regard to the skills needed to grind a tool.

I'm a hobby machinist and have been using carbide tips and think I'll be switching to one of these, and most likely won't ever learn to grind a tool properly, but I'm ok with that.


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## 7milesup (Feb 12, 2016)

BellyUpFish said:


> Supposedly it's pretty sweet.  All the guys I've talked to who use them love them. Use them for 99% of their work.
> 
> The biggest detractor I've read is many of the "purists" don't approve it for the beginner, because it's pretty much cheating, especially with regard to the skills needed to grind a tool.
> 
> I'm a hobby machinist and have been using carbide tips and think I'll be switching to one of these, and most likely won't ever learn to grind a tool properly, but I'm ok with that.




As a woodworker of 30 years or so, the debate has raged about hand cut dovetails vs. machine cut.  I think I only cut dovetails by hand once.  I am a hobby machinist also, so grinding a tool may be useful but I am working alone with only the interweb for guidance, so I am OK with going the "easy" route too.


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## tmarks11 (Feb 12, 2016)

interwebs will teach you all you need to know about grinding tool bits.  It is not hard.

Here is a great video from a guy who was my instructor at a technical school:






He has 4 video of grinding different types of tool bits.  Get some key stock to practice, and once you get the technique down go to HSS.  It should only take an hour to perfect your technique.


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## 7milesup (Feb 12, 2016)

tmarks11 said:


> interwebs will teach you all you need to know about grinding tool bits.  It is not hard.
> 
> Here is a great video from a guy who was my instructor at a technical school:
> 
> ...



Thank you for that link.  Always willing to learn  

Also as a side note.  I was having an issue with my lathe that I could not figure out so I made a call out to PM in Pittsburgh for some advice.   It was about 10 minutes to 5 and Matt answered the call.  He answered my question, which it turned out was a complete mistake on my part, and I was good to go.
So, in regards to the OP, I think that was all hogwash.


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