# Install a VFD on a Grizzly G0602 10x22 Lathe ?



## HMF (Jul 15, 2011)

Has anyone installed a VFD on a Grizzly G0602 10x22? If so, can they show us how they did it?

Thanks,


Nelson


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## November X-ray (Jul 15, 2011)

Although I do not have a Grizzly G0602, I do have a G4000 and a G6672, both with VFD's. Actually all I did was replace the original motor with a same frame 3 phase 1HP and wall mounted the VFD controller. I eventually plan to install remote controlling, but the wall is easily within reach and works great for now so I may never get around too it.


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## November X-ray (Jul 15, 2011)

Oops, I mean a G9972!


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## HMF (Jul 15, 2011)

November X-ray link=topic=2765.msg18893#msg18893 date=1310752662 said:
			
		

> Although I do not have a Grizzly G0602, I do have a G4000 and a G6672, both with VFD's. Actually all I did was replace the original motor with a same frame 3 phase 1HP and wall mounted the VFD controller. I eventually plan to install remote controlling, but the wall is easily within reach and works great for now so I may never get around too it.




When you get a chance can you please show us some photos of the VFD, enclosure and wiring? Thanks!


Nelson


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## HMF (Jul 15, 2011)

That is a good link, except that there are no clear close-ups of the enclosure wiring, which is what I am anxious to see, if anyone has the chance to take some enclosure close-ups.

Thanks.

Nelson


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## jeremy0203 (Aug 5, 2011)

yes mine is converted. used a direct replacement D80 frame lesson motor and teco vfd. as mine is converted to CNC i did not incorporate any of the stock wiring. i have the 3 wires coming from the wall outlet to the VFD and then the 4 wire cable coming from the VFD to the motor. that is really all that is to it for doing it like that.


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## HMF (Aug 5, 2011)

I posted some photos onto Ed's post- if anyone wants to comment on what is going on in the photos.

There is a HUGE enclosure- inside is the VFD and various wires.

Personally, I would like my VFD open for air flow.

Second, I would like to know what all those wires on terminal strips are for. Seems a LOT of wires considering the VFD provides speed and forward and reverse. Third, the original panel on the lathe was drilled with a scroll saw to add more dials and/or buttons. I would like to know what was added and why.

Can your friend Henry perhaps ID the items in the box and on the panel.

I need this "idiot proofed" for me.

Nelson


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## jeremy0203 (Aug 5, 2011)

all the wires he has in there arent actually required. i believe he just pulled the electrical components out of the back of the lathe and put them in the box to make wiring easier. the front is a tachometer so he can tell how fast the spindle is moving along with knobs to adjust the speed and i think one changes the mode it reads in.

but as i said you can completely get rid of all the stock electronics with the VFD install. This of course will get rid of things like your estop, which in my case wasnt necessary as i have one wired into my cnc driver that kills the power.


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## HMF (Aug 6, 2011)

He is an electrical engineer? No wonder he can do this stuff. I am not that great interpreting schematics- bought a book, but it didn't help that much.


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## HMF (Aug 6, 2011)

In the upper left are the 220 one phase lines coming in, but I don't understand what device is being used. Looks like one 110V lead is being used for on/off and the other for something else. Also don't understand what the relays are for. UGH!

Here are the deszigner's comments:

"This design includes the original magnetic contactor except I moved it to the external box with the VFD. It uses all original switches except that the direction switch is now low voltage. The tachometer is optional. The schematic shows the cable breaks between the lathe and the control box. I used connectors for these breaks but this is optional. The control box is an off the shelf item from the Home Depot electrical isle. I included a fan which probably was not necessary which is why it is not shown on the schematic."


"I added connectors for my low voltage and 110V cables so I can disconnect the new control box from the lathe."

"The box contains the VFD, the original contactor, a terminal strip, a wall wart for the tachometer, and the optional fan. The fan blows air up through the VFD and out a passive vent on the top of the box."

Nelson


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## Highpower (Aug 6, 2011)

Allthumbz link=topic=2765.msg21125#msg21125 date=1312653088 said:
			
		

> Here are the deszigner's comments:
> 
> "The box contains the VFD, the original contactor, a terminal strip, a wall wart for the tachometer, and the optional fan. The fan blows air up through the VFD and out a passive vent on the top of the box."
> 
> Nelson


His set-up is very similar to what I did on my lathe. The only thing I would have changed in _this_ case, is that I would have moved the passive vent on top of the box to the other side. Anything that might fall into that vent (coolant, swarf, oil, etc.) will drop straight down into the VFD housing itself. Not a good thing to have happen.


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## MGP (Jun 26, 2012)

jeremy0203 said:


> yes mine is converted. used a direct replacement D80 frame lesson motor and teco vfd. as mine is converted to CNC i did not incorporate any of the stock wiring. i have the 3 wires coming from the wall outlet to the VFD and then the 4 wire cable coming from the VFD to the motor. that is really all that is to it for doing it like that.



Im looking at doing the same thing. Did you buy a kit for the CNC or build it yourself? Thanks Mike


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## Que (Jul 1, 2012)

any more info on this? where best to find the parts needed for the convert, simple wire drawing for dummies like me?


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## AR1911 (Jul 2, 2012)

I just bought a couple of Mitsubishi E520 VFDs to test some 3-phase equipment I recently acquired. Since the equipment probably won't sty, I wanted a quick hookup, non-permanent.

It's really pretty simple.

The application was 220V 1-ph in, 220V 3-ph out.
There are input terminals, output terminals, and ground points.

I bought a 9-ft extension 220 cord from Home Depot for $11, cut off the female end, stripped the 2 power leads and the ground.  I soldered terminals to the ends of each to make hookup more secure.
To the input side you attached the two power leads, then attached the ground to the green ground screws. On these it was on the aluminum heatsink/chassis, just below the terminals.

On the output side, you would normally attach the power cable from the 3-ph machine's motor. 
You have a ground lead and 3 power leads. The ground attaches as above. The other 3 go to any of the 3 output terminals.

On setup, the default is usually 60-hz. Usually you don't have to do anything else on setup.

To turn it on, you press RUN. To turn it off, you press STOP
To vary the speed, you adjust the HZ: lower the value to slow it down, increase it to speed it up. If the motor is rated at 1725 at 60-HZ, you can run it well in excess of that if you go much over 60 HZ, so be careful with this.

The VFD has a small keyboard to change various functions, such as soft start, braking, and reverse. 
There are also a separate set of terminals to attach remote start/stop switch and speed (HZ) rheostat.

It was a pretty short learning curve for me. Had my machines running pretty quickly.  I'm sold.


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