# Questions on a Used Millermatic 135



## Smudgemo

I've decided to step into a more modern time and pick up a used MIG welder, but I thought I'd ask for an opinion first.  I'm going to go look at a Millermatic 135 this weekend that is supposed to have very little use and in perfect working order, but I've only done some gas welding and lots of brazing.  I don't know much about MIG yet.  Any worries buying this unit used?  

I get the Lincoln/Hobart/Miller part and the limits of 120V equipment, but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything else.  I don't know if a gas regulator is included, but there is no bottle or stand as far as I know.  The asking price if $400, and I'd like to figure I'll lose very little if I ever decide to upgrade for whatever reason.  Let's assume this unit (which will surely do more than my aircraft torch) has enough power for my needs.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Ryan


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## davidh

I wish I could be more help but. . . for that price there should be a regulator and small argon/co2 bottle too. . . it dues seem a bit on the high side.

on a similar note, I used to sell 110v. 130 amp welders made in Italy and sold by Mac Tool .   the master distributor was Astro Pneumatic from sunny L.A. and sold with their Logo also  they were and still are great small machines.  they would do a great 3/16" fillet weld on mild steel, using the 75/25 mix of gas and .023 wire.  I've witnessed guys putting some pretty big trailer hitches on trucks with them.  I think the Miller would do the same thing.  pushing the torch away from you rather than pulling it along will give you good penetration.  I've stiched body metal together on the lower settings.  

I also just asked my very knowlegable brother whom works for airgas and knows millers insided and out.  his comments were very incouraging.  the welder is a great little machine,  very little problems ever.  however, $400 is a bit over the top unless it has a regulator.  a small bottle would make the deal quite Christian according to him.....
hope this helps.


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## DMS

$400 seems a good price. Hopefully he will have it in working shape and you can run some beads with it. I'm guessing he doesn't have tanks, or was renting them. The welder should have come with a regulator set new, but it may be lost to time. It shouldn't be too difficult or expensive to replace. You will need a tank, and a regulator if you want to do true MIG welding, but this welder should do FCAW without gas (you will need flux core wire, and the appropriately sized tips for it, flux core wire tends to be larger in diameter than solid wire).

The other thing I noticed is that the manual doesn't have any mention of welding aluminum, so if you plan on doing that, you may consider a different model. Also keep in mind you will want some safety gear if you don't already have it (gloves, helmet). I would also recommend a pair of mig welding pliers. This machine should do up to 3/16" steel in a single pass, which should be decent.

As far as a stand, I recommend it has a good first welding project. I build mine out of 1" angle iron and some square tubing. Good to practice your welds, and get something useful out of the deal.


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## Smudgemo

Thanks.  That's the sort of information I was hoping for.  I think the different opinions on price might be at least partially attributed to Bay Area vs. northern WI (Go Pack!) cost of living.  I thought the regulator might have been a standard accessory and will consider accordingly, although I'm not much of a wheeler-dealer.  I also don't think I'll ever bother with AL, so that won't matter.  I'd just like to tackle some of the stuff I do in the garage with something better than an aircraft torch.


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## bptactical

Bounce over to the forums on Millers website and do a search on the 135. Age of the machine is critical, you want to make sure parts are available. One thing that plagues smaller machines are the drive gears for the feed rollers, they usually are plastic and can fail.

Do not buy it unless you try it! Try it at various amperages and feed speeds. Too low of amps and or wire feed speed and the wire will burn back to the tip or "drops" of filler are deposited as weld, giving it the "Pigeon Poop" effect. Too much feed speed and it won't weld, it will just shoot wire out in a snarl.
Adjust the machine settings to where the arc is steady and it makes a clean sizzling sound, similar to bacon frying.
Take a couple of scrap pieces of metal with you like 1/8" thick. I would start with 70 amps or so and set your wirefeed in the middle of the range as a starting point. Leave the wirespeed alone at first and set the amps to where you get a bead that has decent form, too cold and pigeon poop, too hot and it will burn through. After you get the hang of it you can use the wire speed to fine tune it.
Ask the owner what amps and wirespeed he used.
Don't be afraid to ask him to run a couple of beads with it if you are too nervous


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## Smudgemo

Thanks, BP.  Not nervous, just haven't ever done it.  I asked him to be ready to show me it works, so I'll take some prepped scrap.


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## DaveD

Keep in mind the duty cycle of those smaller machines is probably in the 20% range at the high end.
i personally would not trust that machine ( or any machine in that category) to do quality 'structural' welds on something like 'heavy duty trailer hitches'.
Just not enough oomph!

Nice little machine for 1/8" and under though.


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## TOOLMASTER

run away, don't walk


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## Charley Davidson

A Miller 135 was used to weld the roof raise on my tour bus a few years ago, the well qualified welders doing the welding were skeptical but soon became believers. It is a great little machine and when I bought my mig that was what I was looking for but ended up with a MM140 for $400
which was a great deal. I do think the price is a bit steep but not a real deal breaker if it at least has the regulator, a bottle would make the deal fairly reasonable. They are great little welders but I have out grown mine but intend to keep it for sheet metal work. You would have to do a lot of continuous welding to worry about the duty cycle as I've had mine for 4 years and never bumped the duty cycle. All said you may want to search a bit more or get him down $50 or $75


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## kevinpg

speaking on the abilities of the little welders. i welded the receiver on my pickup after bought it new in late 99. pulled a 35 foot travel trailer. welds have held fine and i still own the truck.  have a different welder now, still 110v but a lincoln 140 that I got for 200 used with regulator.

the real issue is, what are you welding and will the duty cycle work for you. these are not 100%duty cycle welders, in this voltage and price point, they are 20% typically, so think about 12 minutes continuous welding an hour.  that is a bit unless you are very organized and thought out.  Now, unless  you are planning to make the world's greatest BBQ out of 30" .380 or .500 wall pipe or turning pro, you will likely never need more welder than the MM. my father was a Journeyman pipe welder and He used a lincoln s.a.200 pipeliner special.  if you are planning heavy duty (for home) welding, you will want 220v wire or crackerbox and maybe even a used gas model so your electric bill won't enhance the sticker shock.  i actually run my 140 off a portable genset if I have much welding to do.  oh, unless you need a big hand grinder, I would at least 2 of the 4.5" inch grinders, one for grinding disk and the other for your wire wheel.  I have three, one with grinding disk, one with wire wheel and the other is either a cup brush or cut-off wheel.  good luck, 400 seems high, check craigslist and other online resources, like claz.org to see what they are going for locally.  i would love a plasma cutter but they are not as versatile as a torch and i have other purshases more pressing.  good luck!

one other thing about 'quality welds' and trusting these little welders, a quality weld is a product of the right preparation, proper heat settings, environment (wind is you enemy, along with contaminants and a hundred other things) and using the correct welding filler alloy. if the manufacturer such as lincoln or Miller claim the welder is appropriate formthe sizes and types of metal you are joining, then it is safe to say that poor outcomes are directly related to poor technique.  if you are welding something where failure could cause injury and you are not certain of your skill or the abilities of the welder, then hire a pro.  nothing, not vanity or dollars is worth getting someone hurt. on the other hand, proper technique and preparation should result in good results.  now, i have watched a bunch of these car and bike fabrication shows where the workers tack, and sometimes seem to run a bead without protection is a disservice.  i bought an auto darkening hood at HF of all places and with concern, tried it. it worked like a charm.  do not be macho and risk your eyes, please.  when I was an apprentice, there were times it was near impossible to avoid a corneal burn, that is a misery I wish on no one.  i stopped pipelining in 84 but I still recall the nights in pain with burns and trying to sleep.  I guess they think there is something macho about always showing folks welding without protection, if you cannot see, you are just guessing at the weld.


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## kevinpg

aluminum welding was mentioned.  you will need to purchase the aluminum gun, miller and lincoln both make one for these.  aluminum spool is on the gun as the alloy is too soft to push from the welder, some guns may pull the wire.  additionally, you will have to use gas sheilding so the regulator is a must.  

it can be done.  also note that lincoln and miller produce rod to weld cast iron but the process is specialized. I remember dad attempting it once when he owned a welding shop.  i used the rosebud torch to try and keep the cast heated all over so it didn't crack and craze.  if you dont have the part heated, stress cracking will happen. after he welded it, we buried it in sand to keep air away and slow coolin.  pulled it out after a day.

this is stick welding and if you try to repair a cast iron crack, be certain to drill a hole at each end of the crack to stop it or be prepared to use a lot of rod.


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## bptactical

Corneal burns suck. Nothing like waking up at 3am feeling like Pismo beach dumped all its sand in your eyes.
The bad thing-each time you do get a burn it is easier and easier to get.
Sliced raw potatoes on the eyes work believe it or not to ease it a bit.


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## Hawkeye

I've used a Hobart Handler 140 for quite a while now. I have a tank and regulator, but prefer to use flux-core for the convenience of it. No gas to set and drain for every little tacking job. Sure, there's more cleanup, but that never bothered me.

Up here, as Shawn can attest, $400 is a good price. Mine was pushing $600 new without the tank. 

You will want to have a 20 amp circuit available for when you're welding at maximum settings. For 1/8" stock, a 15 amp circuit usually works fine. And get an auto-darkening helmet. One good way to keep Pismo beach out of your eyes.

Aluminum sucks heat away really fast, so you won't be welding very thick aluminum with a 135. If that's a priority for you, wait and get at least a 180 in 240 volt.

Your first welds will look like mine were, but within an hour, you'll be feeling pretty good about your progress.


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