# my new toy



## gmaxed

hello all.This is my new to me toy!!!!!!
	

		
			
		

		
	





	

		
			
		

		
	
                                                                  sorry having problems with pic's.Anyway it's a 5914,seral #503xxxx.It has a few things that need to be repaired but I've already had it running and used it to make a few parts to fix it's self.I'm in the process of taking it apart for both cleaning and getting it to the house.It's at the shop I work at right now.


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## righto88

That is a nice look "new toy" I am sure you will enjoy it once it is home.


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## Chuck K

Nice....It looks like my 5904 with vs....i'm jealous!:lmao:


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## fastback

Yes, that is a nice looking "toy", Good luck.


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## GK1918

I should say, no toy, thats the real deal.  gray paint perhaps???????


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## gmaxed

I was thinking ford gray but not sure just yet.


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## GK1918

A caution on Ford gray,  there are two.  I bought some from trac. supply I painted my hood oh boy.
It looked more white than gray.  Ford gray is kind of strange I dont know if it has blue or green in it.
I have been using Dk Rustoleum gray then I tried Rustoleum painters choice dk grey that stuff dries
quick real strong and is a good match, its semi gloss and touchup is a snap.


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## gmaxed

thanks for the warning.I'll have to see about the paint, right now getting it apart and home is the job.After that it's a mater of taking it the rest of the way apart and cleaning to find anything else that's broken or worn that needs fixed.


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## Tamper84

Looks great!!!

Chris


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## Ulma Doctor

nice lathe!


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## PurpLev

sweet. love seeing this clausings pop up lately


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## the gentleman

what a beauty


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## gmaxed

well I findly got the lathe apart and some of the pieces home.I got both bases and the bed here at the house so I can get started cleaning and striping for the new paint.I'll try and post some pic's later.


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## Chuck K

It's just hearsay until we see pics.:LOL:


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## gmaxed

I've been working on getting the paint off the bed and bases and still taking apart the other pieces.I'm having problems getting the quick-change gear box apart.I have one or two gears that have teeth missing which is no big deal to fix but I need to get it apart.Any advise?


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## Chuck K

Look for snap rings....


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## architard

If you need to replace cone gears you're going to have to pull the entire gear box apart. Take out the tumbler shaft first. There is a collar on the inside that has a roll pin you need to punch out first. Then take out the dog clutch shaft. Make good notes and take photos of the orientation and order of  the dog gears. The dog clutch slide, rides on a key that is really hard to get out. You need to get all the splines lined up so that the key is between them so you can lift the one side out. There is one snap ring on the dog gear clutch.  You may need a press to press some of these shafts out. Finally take out the cone gear shaft. There is a snap ring on that shaft as well. Looking towards the lathe the gear on the left side is integral to that shaft, so there is only one way to press that shaft out. This is by no means comprehensive step my step, just the few key points I'd point out since I've recently had to take apart my entire gear box. 

If you need to replace gears I'd suggest buying standard gears and boring/broaching them as needed. If you order from Clausing they will cost and arm and a leg. They are pretty typical spur gears with a 14.5 degree pressure angle. 

I had to replace the integral gear on the cone gear shaft and so I ordered a 16 tooth gear from McMaster Carr, machined it to fit, machined off the worn one and pressed on the new one. Saved my about $100 over buying one from Clausing. And that's exactly the sort of project that I got this lathe for!

Let us know how you make out.


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## Chuck K

If you have the manual, there is a very good breakdown of the entire gearbox.  With that it should be real easy for you.  I just had mine apart and I didn't have to press anything.  I did use a brass drift to tap one of the shafts out.  As Kent said the shaft with the key is kind of a pia, but you'll figure it out.  Good luck.

Chuck


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## gmaxed

I did findly get the cluch dog shaft out and now working on the cone gear shaft.I've been trying to work on it at the shop because I have all the tool there that I need just finding the time to do it is the hard part.The shop in an hours drive from my house and with gas prices being so high I hate to drive in on the weekends so I do what I can when I can get away with it.lol.Thanks for all the help I'm sure I'll need more as this goes on.


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## gmaxed

I got a little more paint striped tonight.Hope to be able to spray some paint later this week if it warms up.I'm starting to look for a 4-jaw chuck but haven't desided between an 8" or 10".My 3-jaw is an 8".Any ideas??


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## Chuck K

I don't know the sizes of clausing lathes by the model numbers...I was assuming yours was a 10" swing, but the more I look at the pics I'm thinking its bigger than that.  Bigger isn't always better when your buying a chuck.  Don't get one so big that you can't open the jaws up without hitting the bed or cross slide.  If it's a 10" lathe I wouldn't want anything bigger than an 8" chuck.   If it has a larger swing then maybe a 10" chuck would be good choice.

Chuck


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## architard

When purchasing chucks for my lathe I had found that the general rule of thumb is half your swing for a 3 jaw and half your swing + 1 inch for a 4 jaw. Since you have a 12" swing I believe your 3 jaw is a bit oversized. I wouldn't go any bigger than 8 for the 4 jaw. However I have no idea where these rules come from, I'm sure someone smarter than me has a better reasoning for it. I tend to do follow the advice of older machinists.


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## Uncle Buck

Chuck K said:


> I don't know the sizes of clausing lathes by the model numbers...I was assuming yours was a 10" swing, but the more I look at the pics I'm thinking its bigger than that.  Bigger isn't always better when your buying a chuck.  Don't get one so big that you can't open the jaws up without hitting the bed or cross slide.  If it's a 10" lathe I wouldn't want anything bigger than an 8" chuck.   If it has a larger swing then maybe a 10" chuck would be good choice.
> 
> Chuck





architard said:


> When purchasing chucks for my lathe I had found that the general rule of thumb is half your swing for a 3 jaw and half your swing + 1 inch for a 4 jaw. Since you have a 12" swing I believe your 3 jaw is a bit oversized. I wouldn't go any bigger than 8 for the 4 jaw. However I have no idea where these rules come from, I'm sure someone smarter than me has a better reasoning for it. I tend to do follow the advice of older machinists.



In looking at the pictures it does appear that the machine might be a bit "over chucked" I agree with the statements of thee guys. Something worth checking anyway. Congratulations on the new machine though, I am jealous!


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## gmaxed

thanks for the advice.The lathe is a 12"x36" and the 3-jaw is what came on the lathe.


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## gmaxed

I've said this before and now saying it again I HATE FORDS.I started painting today and my paint looks bed sheet white!The lable on the can and even the paint in the can looks light gray but on the bed it's as white as it can get.So it's back to the store tomorrow for more paint.:angry:


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## Clausing

Being a proud owner of a Clausing 4914 I am interested in additonal pictures of your progress.
In my efforts to replace the spindle bearings on my lathe, I found the manual to be a huge help. It was however a bit short of the how to's of dismantling the gear box. The most amazing part of the process was that the bearings were available at NAPA Auto Parts!

I would like to know more about your chuck search, as my lathe only came with a 3 jaw and some of the items on my project list will require the 4 jaw tolerances.

Nice lathe.


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## Chuck K

I don't mean to derail this thread, but......

"The most amazing part of the process was that the bearings were available at NAPA Auto Parts!"

I hope you got precision bearings.  I found in the past that I could get a bearing with the same number for about 40.00 (I didn't try NAPA, but I'm confident they could have got it for me) but when you get the precision bearing with the same number the price jumped up to about 250.00.  I don't know if I could have gotten the precision bearing through NAPA....but it's possible.

We need to see pics of the paint progress.  I'm not sure if I'm following the "Ford" thing, but I'm thinking you were using a ford gray that looked a little too light.

Chuck


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## gmaxed

here are some pic's so far.As you can see the paint on the bed looks white.The other pieces are primed and ready to be painted.the motor base still needs striped but the weather here changed before I could work on it.


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## Chuck K

Yep...looks closer to white than gray.  Are you spraying it or brushing it?  If your spraying, the benny moore urethane alkyd lays out really nice and they can tint it anyway you want it.  I've been brushing rustoleum on a few machines and it lays out really nice.  The only problem I have with rustoleum is the limited color selection.  I haven't had real good luck with it when they tint it.  It just doesn't seem to lay out as well.  I'm not real swift with a brush though...so it might be user error.:thinking:

Chuck


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## gmaxed

I did brush this paint on.It's tractor supply paint.This time I went to ace and had them mix the color I wanted and I'll be spraying the paint this time.I'll post some pic's when I get a chance to get some done.


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## Chuck K

If your using the "rust stop" ace paint, I think it's supposed to be their version of rustoleum.  I pesonally think it loses something when they add tint to it.  In any event the alkyds need to be sprayed with a very light tack coat, followed by a nice even coat as soon as the tack coat drys enough that it doesn't pull of when touched lightly with your finger.  I'm probably telling you what you already know, but if not, it will save you some headaches.

Chuck


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## gmaxed

Thanks for the advice Chuck.I'm use to spraying auto paint but not the oil based stuff like this.
	

		
			
		

		
	




	

		
			
		

		
	
here are some pic's of the paint job I did on the boat I built.This was done with an airbrush.


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## Chuck K

The oil will really look nice if you get it thinned just right....but there's a real fine line between flowing out like you want and running.  I made the mistake of going past the critical recoat time once and had it lift.  What a mess.  I had to wipe it back down to the primer with thinner soaked rags.  I was glad that I used a good epoxy primer.  It dried hard as nails and the thinner didn't even touch it. I was topcoating with benny moore paint when that happened to me.  I don't know if the ace brand has a critical recoat time like that but some of the alkyds do.

Chuck


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## gmaxed

Well I finely got to spray paint tonight.Here's what it looks like now.
	

		
			
		

		
	





	

		
			
		

		
	
It still looks white in the pic"s but it' truely light gray.:whistle:


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## Chuck K

Looks like you made a lot of progress.  It's hard to tell from the pics.....how did it lay out for you? I've never sprayed the ace brand.  I'm guessing if you got it thinned just right it probably flowed out real nice.  The south bend I just picked up could use a complete paint job like that, but I don't know if I have the ambition.  The paint isn't peeling off and it doesn't have any weird colors on it...so I think I'll just go with the "patina" look...lol.  Keep the pics coming.

Chuck


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## gmaxed

The paint layed out very well and covered realy nice.I should have add that the paint is rustoleum and not a ace brand.sorry I forgot to put that in last time).I hope to get the chip pan striped and painted today but as the temp. outside has droped I don't know if I can paint or not.


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## gmaxed

findly starting to get some peices back together.
	

		
			
		

		
	





	

		
			
		

		
	
anyone know how to remove the main shaft from a 5914?


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## Tamper84

Wow nice progress!!! Can I send you my lathe??? Lol. 

Are you talking about the spindle you are trying to remove?

Chris


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## gmaxed

I'm trying to get the main spindle shaft out but the two gears that are still on it won't move.When I called clausing today they told me to hit the outboard end of the shaft with a board and 3# hammer.Anyother ideas?


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## Chuck K

I used the bfm technique like clausing suggested.  I have read where other people have fashioned a puller out of ready bolt and washers to give an even pull on the spindle.  It really shouldn't come out extremely hard once you get it moving.  If you have a parts manual, check for keys in the gears.  The bullgear almost certainly has one.  The gear behind it might also.  You may have to move that gear back and remove the key before you push the spindle through the bullgear.

Chuck


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## gmaxed

well it took awhile but I got the gear head apart.I had to take it to the shop and use the press.
I'm glad I did because the problem was the keys in shaft were sheared off.I'm going to have to make a new back gear shaft as it"s a mess,the ends were the gears go on are both really bad.hope to get some more pic's soon.


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## jmhoying

You're doing a very nice job with it!  My 5914 isn't in quite as many parts as yours, but close.  I'm using "Machinery Gray" Rustoleum on the majority of the lathe, and a lighter gray on the cross-slide and tailstock.

Jack
Fort Loramie, Ohio


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