# Which 3 Jaw Chuck and collet chuck for incoming PM1340GT



## Serpico1985 (Jan 8, 2021)

I am new to lathes.  I purchased a PM1340GT that should be here in early March.  It's a single phase that will be used for gunsmithing.  I've been using a mill for a year now and am still new to machining but learning.

When I purchased the lathe I got the Precision Matthews brand high precision 4 jaw lathe chuck that will ship with it.  In talking with the other gunsmiths who are guiding me I know that I need a 3 jaw chuck and a collet chuck.  I'm trying to figure out the best bang for my buck on these items.  I'm not incapable of spending some money (I'm not on a tight "Chinese only" type budget) but I don't want to burn money needlessly.  I know the 3 jaw will get used the most along with the collet chuck for what I need to do with them.  

I've looked at Buck adjust-tru 3 jaw chucks and lordy are they expensive.  The 8" 3 jaw with a D1-4 back plate is around $1700-$1800 new.  I thought about trying to find a used one on ebay with no back plate and combining that with a new D1-4 back plate but it's hard for me to tell if the used condition is satisfactory or not.  I've seen them on ebay for anywhere from $200 to $700.  The $200 ones look rough.  The $600-$700 look much better but I'm not %100 sure they are what they say they are as I'm unfamiliar with the markings on the older buck chucks.  

As far as collet chucks go I'm all ears.  Don't know much about them.  I've seen the Chinese ones that are around $150 to a bison brand that are around $460 with no back plate.  Any advise would be appreciated.

Thank you.


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## davidpbest (Jan 8, 2021)

I have a PM1340 outfitted with a Chandox 3J, with Adust-Tru and 2-piece jaws.  It was supplied by PM, made in Taiwan and an outstanding chuck.   I also have a Bison 3J, Adjust-Tru with 2-piece jaws and it's also a great chuck.   I'm not sure if PM is still importing the Chandox, but the Bison I have and can recommend is _*shown here*_. I don't think you need a Bison quality D1-4 mount.


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## Dan_S (Jan 8, 2021)

For a goode middle ground, take a look at Bison chucks, for a little cheaper Gator.

Lots of places sell Bison , so you need to shop around as prices can be all over the place.

Plain back (model # is actually 7-800-0800)








						Bison 3-Jaw Self-Centering Scroll Chuck, Plain Back #3205, 8" Diameter - 7-800-0800
					

Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.




					www.penntoolco.com
				





Integrated D1-4 mount








						Bison 3-Jaw Lathe Chuck Self Centering "D-1" Camlock Mount, 8" Diameter D1-4 - 803-0834
					

Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.




					www.penntoolco.com
				




Plain back set true








						Bison 3-Jaw 2Pc. Set-Tru Scroll Chuck Hard Reversible Jaw 8" Dia. - 7-866-0800
					

Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.




					www.penntoolco.com
				




If you want to splurge, you could get a set true 6 jaw. This is why you need to shop around, the same chuck but a $400 price difference.








						Bison 6-Jaw 2Pc. Set-Tru Scroll Chuck Hard Reversible Jaw 8" Dia. - 7-868-0800
					

Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.




					www.penntoolco.com
				





			8" BISON  6 Jaw SET-TRU Chuck Forged Steel 7-868-0800
		



I wouldn't get a collet chuck personally. I'd go with the collet closer you can get directly from Quality Machine Tools.


			https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1340gt-5clever/
		



A chuck  is less rigid as it projects out from the spindle face more.
A chuck is usually less accurate as its a more complicated piece of technology.
A chuck is more fiddly/time consuming  to use than a lever closer.

The only potential benefit of a collet chuck in my opinion is if you get a set true one. They are more expensive, still less rigid and fiddly, but can make up for poor quality collets (within reason.)


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## Rich V (Jan 8, 2021)

Serpico1985 said:


> I am new to lathes.  I purchased a PM1340GT that should be here in early March.  It's a single phase that will be used for gunsmithing.  I've been using a mill for a year now and am still new to machining but learning.
> 
> When I purchased the lathe I got the Precision Matthews brand high precision 4 jaw lathe chuck that will ship with it.  In talking with the other gunsmiths who are guiding me I know that I need a 3 jaw chuck and a collet chuck.  I'm trying to figure out the best bang for my buck on these items.  I'm not incapable of spending some money (I'm not on a tight "Chinese only" type budget) but I don't want to burn money needlessly.  I know the 3 jaw will get used the most along with the collet chuck for what I need to do with them.
> 
> ...


I purchased the 8" Gator 6 jaw set true chuck for my PM1340 and I'm very satisfied with the chuck.

http://gatorchucksonline.com/Scroll...pb-series-6-jaw-153-semi-steel/1-153-0800.htm
This chuck gets used for 99% of my work.

Instead of buying a separate collet chuck I went with an ER32 collet holder that I chuck up in the 6 jaw. 
https://www.maritool.com/Tool-Holde...STRAIGHT-SHANK-COLLET-CHUCK/product_info.html
This gives me the equivalent of a set true collet chuck for a fraction of the cost plus no need to switch out chucks. Some will say this is a less rigid setup and that is true but considering the small size stock you put into a collet it doesn't matter much. If you are doing a lot of repetitive small part work in a collet this setup will be slow compared to a true collet chuck but I'm a hobbiest so not really a problem for me.


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## tjb (Jan 8, 2021)

I would consider trolling ebay for a "New-Open Box" chuck with the specs you consider necessary.  I recently bought a Pratt-Burnerd - Made in England 6" 4-jaw independent scroll chuck in that category and paid a fraction of the cost for a brand new one.  The chuck came in the original box with original styrofoam packaging and cosmolene and had clearly never been used on a lathe.  It was exactly what I was looking for except for the backing plate - I modified one I had to fit my lathe.  The only downside was it did not have the original chuck key.  So I made two - a nice exercise anyway.

I did a quick search on ebay and found this - might not be at all what you're looking for but just an illustration that there's stuff out there:









						Display Model Bison Poland 8" 3-Jaw Scroll Lathe Chuck. 2pc Jaws. A5 A1-5 Mount.  | eBay
					

Display Bison Poland 8" 3-Jaw Scroll Lathe Chuck. 2pc Jaws. A5 A1-5 Mount. $1108 Premium European quality. Box May be different than the one shown •3-Jaw Direct Mounting Lathe Chucks •American Standard . 2-Pc. Jaws Please See additional Pictures Below the Description.



					www.ebay.com
				




That chuck lists for over $1,300 on MSC's website:


			https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/08598088
		


Regards,
Terry


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## tjb (Jan 8, 2021)

P


tjb said:


> I would consider trolling ebay for a "New-Open Box" chuck with the specs you consider necessary.  I recently bought a Pratt-Burnerd - Made in England 6" 4-jaw independent scroll chuck in that category and paid a fraction of the cost for a brand new one.  The chuck came in the original box with original styrofoam packaging and cosmolene and had clearly never been used on a lathe.  It was exactly what I was looking for except for the backing plate - I modified one I had to fit my lathe.  The only downside was it did not have the original chuck key.  So I made two - a nice exercise anyway.
> 
> I did a quick search on ebay and found this - might not be at all what you're looking for but just an illustration that there's stuff out there:
> 
> ...


P.S.:  It's also been my experience that vendors with "New - Open Box" merchandise will negotiate - sometimes, substantially.


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## mksj (Jan 8, 2021)

The Chandox set-true type chuck is probably the most cost effective, and can be either an upgrade to the PEP package or purchased separately if in stock at QMT/PM. The Buck chucks are quite expensive for what you get, there are equal or better quality chucks for less. The Gator chucks are Chinese copies of the the Bison, many of the parts are interchangeable but the workmanship on the chuck is better with the Bison, but it varies and you can read others review of these chucks. Bison chuck is not much more. TMX use to be a distributor for Bison, but split off and has their own line of chucks manufactured in Poland. They are slightly less expensive than the Bison, a few people that have purchased the TMX noted some small issues but they worked well otherwise. The  Pratt Burnerd America 3 Jaw Setrite Chuck, 6 or 8" is also a very good chuck and is what I use.  QMT/PM sells Bison/TMX so worth inquiring on pricing if you go that route. A Set-True type of chuck uses an adjustable back plate that the chuck can be centered for minimum TIR. This is helpful if you need to center the work piece and if you are doing repetitive tasks that the part is removed and then rechucked. In most cases the repeatability is better than 0.0005" but will also vary on the size of the piece you are holding.

As far as collet chucks there are too general schools/preferences, one is for a 5C collet type and the other is an ER40 type. The pros and cons of each type have been extensively discussed, the 5C has less holding power and collet clamping range, but works better (in my opinion) for short or small pieces and also can be used with stock other than round with the appropriate collet. Since it has a very small clamping range, I advise using a 1/64th collet set available through QMT/or other vendors. An ER40 system has a wider clamping range but needs to hold the stock through the collet, technically they have a collapsible range of 1 MM but in my experience the accuracy suffers at the clamping extremes, so I recommend getting the collet set in imperial vs. metric if you go that route. Shar's usually stocks a D1-4 ER-40 set-true style chuck that many HM members have used with good results (you can do a search), alternative is a Set-True style 5C. I use the latter in a Bison chuck and it works very well, my understanding is that QMT/PM now stock a less expensive version set-true type 5C chuck in addition they can source the Bison/TMX. I also find the Small Tools Inc. carries a wide range of chucks and typically have very good pricing.








						Bison 5" 5C Super Precision Collet Chuck Set Tru Mount 7-862-0505
					

Bison 5" 5C Super Precision Collet Chuck Set Tru Mount 7-862-0505




					www.smalltools.com
				








						5" ER40 Zero Set Fine Adjustment Collet Chuck
					

Shars Tool




					www.shars.com
				




If you plan to do gunsmithing, you may consider going 3 phase for the 1340GT with a VFD, typically you will get better surface finish, soft start, rapid braking and variable speed on the fly. You can do a basic VFD install for around $600 inclusive of the VFD (WJ200-015SF available through QMT or other online vendors ). 








						WJ200-015SF
					






					www.driveswarehouse.com


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## Serpico1985 (Jan 8, 2021)

Davidpbest
Dan_S
Rich V
tjb
mksj

Thank y'all very much for the information!  I didn't realize that PM sold stuff that wasn't listed on their website.  I called them and they are going to email their prices for Bison and TMX 8" 3 jaw D1-4 chucks.

Also the sales rep said that they were coming out with their own 5c collet chuck in the next month.  I think they will price quote that as well.

Y'all have given me a lot to chew over.  Thank you.

Zack


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## Aukai (Jan 8, 2021)

You may be able to get a 3ph 1340GT now if any are left from the shipment that just came in. It was recommended above, it's a little more effort to set up, but you do get more benefits.


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## Serpico1985 (Jan 8, 2021)

The ship has sailed on the single phase.  I have a single phase mill and I got a spot in my shop pre-wired for another single phase machine.  Thank you though.


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## xr650rRider (Jan 8, 2021)

The VFD converts single phase to 3 phase.


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## mksj (Jan 8, 2021)

In single phase motors one can see pulsations in the work surface where in 3 phase the the pulsations are reduce in amplitude and phase because there are 3 phase operating on the motor at any one time each staggered by 120 degrees. Some machines like lathes and surface grinders these can show up as surface finish striations with an even repetitive pattern. It seems to be quite variable for even the same model, some individuals seem to have more issues than others, and some have none or very little. Three phase motors can have their speed varied and do not need start or run capacitors, so are not limited as to the number and frequency of start cycles per hour. With a single phase motor that uses a start capacitor, it can fail with too frequent start/stop cycles and also the motor starter switch will eventually fail.








						1340gt surface finish problem
					

O.K. guys, and gals, I've tried every speed/feed combo, every carbide insert I have, every HSS tool I have, I've even put  vibration isolation pads between the stand and the floor...nothing seems to work.  Here's what I get...   Please excuse my photography skills.  You can not only SEE the...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




Three phase can be generated from a single phase power source and the two most common methods that provide full power to the motor is a rotary phase converter (RPC) and a variable frequency drive (VFD). An RPC generates the 3rd leg through the use of another 3 phase motor to generate the 3rd leg and capacitors to balance the voltage between legs, they are considered plug and play in that you do not need any modifications to the machine it is running and can run multiple machines. It produces a fixed frequency output, 60Hz in the US. RPC's are heavy (big), consumer power when running and also can be a bit noisy. A VFD electronically generates a 3 phase output by taking the single phase power converting it to DC power and then chopping the DC into many smaller segments (PWM) to simulate smooth sinusoidal wave. This works acceptably with motors because the coils act as inductors and smooth the PWM, but this does not work well with other electronics. So the VFD output needs to be directly connected to the motor, no contactors or switches. VFD's also have what is called sensorless vector control which is a form of feedback from the motor to the VFD, so that the VFD can very accurately control the motor speed and performance parameters. It can control not only speed, but also acceleration and rapid braking. VFD's are very compact and minimal weight. A VFD has low voltage inputs that control most of its functions, typically these operate at 24VDC and a few milliamps. VFD's for the most part are machine/motor specific, and need to be programmed for each application.

VFD's allow adjusting the motor speed on the fly, and typically have fairly flat torque curves but the Hp drops off in a linear fashion below the motor base speed of 60Hz. It is not a direct substitute  for a gearbox, but the stock 1340GT motor works very well in the 20-90Hz speed range. If taking very deep or heavy cuts then one would want to gear down the spindle speed and do the fine adjust with the VFD. Many turning, drilling and boring functions can be very speed sensitive, so like my larger MT drills I use in the tailstock will have a sweet spot for drilling in a material and too fast will result in chatter.

The downside of the VFD is that you need to directly wire its output to the motor and cannot use the stock motor run controls, it requires wiring in the low voltage inputs and maintaining the same safety interlocks that the machine originally had, and adding other controls say for speed control, braking rate, jogging direction, etc. Installing a VFD requires some basic understanding of electricity and control systems, and there are numerous different ways to install them. One "relatively basic/simple" method is outlined in this thread and I believe Precision Mathews also has a similar document that they can provide:








						Pm1340gt Lathe Basic Vfd Control Conversion Using The Stock Control Board And Switches
					

Many individuals buy the PM1340GT lathe as a 3 phase machine with the intent to convert it over to a VFD system, the usual VFD that is used is the Hitachi WJ200-015SF. Unfortunately the conversion often requires a somewhat complex and costly conversion process to optimize many of the VFD...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




I would do some reading up on RPC's and VFD's and see if they fits into your plan or not. As mentioned the 1340GT is a great lathe, many people do go 3 phase route because it affords them more control and surface finish.


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## davidpbest (Jan 9, 2021)

Serpico1985 said:


> Davidpbest
> Dan_S
> Rich V
> tjb
> ...


An 8" 3J Bison is a huge chuck for the 1340GT.  I am very happy with my 6" 3J.  I did however go with 8" 4J.  I'd be interested to hear what the PM pricing on the Bison.  Mark makes noteworthy comments in his post about 3-phase benefits.


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## Logan Novice (Jan 9, 2021)

Rich V said:


> I purchased the 8" Gator 6 jaw set true chuck for my PM1340 and I'm very satisfied with the chuck.
> 
> http://gatorchucksonline.com/Scroll...pb-series-6-jaw-153-semi-steel/1-153-0800.htm
> This chuck gets used for 99% of my work.
> ...


That's the route I'd take.


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## Watchwatch (Jan 9, 2021)

I’ve been extremely satisfied with my 6” TMX 6 jaw chuck. With a little bit of fiddling, all my work has easily dialed into to .0005 TIR. 

I use the PM 8” 4 jaw (rarely) for larger work on my 1236T.


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## Serpico1985 (Jan 9, 2021)

mksj,

I appreciate  your thorough response!  I have read that other thread about surface finish issues.  I get what your saying about getting a 3ph machine and adding a VFD.  I did not realize that I could use single phase with the VFD/3ph lathe though.  It certainly sounds like it is the best option.  The problem I'm running into is that I know even less about electricity than I do lathes!  Haha.  I'm apprehensive about doing it, assuming I could switch out my order for a 3ph machine with PM, because I would be at the mercy of my electrician as to what he would charge to do this.  And I'd have to buy a VFD from someone as you mention.  

Can you advise the cost of buying a "VFD kit" so to speak?  Or whatever extra parts I would need to re-wire the stock parts?  I will contact my electrician and discuss this with him and see what he says.  

Thank you again.


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## Serpico1985 (Jan 9, 2021)

I can go with a 6" chuck if it makes more sense.  I guess I just assumed 8" since that was the size of the 4 jaw from PM.


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## Serpico1985 (Jan 9, 2021)

Also,

I wanted to clarify about one of my posts in this thread that was deleted.  I was contacted by a moderator who explained that they received complaints about the meme I posted of a guy in a business suit saying "explain it to me like I'm 8 years old".  I didn't mean to offend anyone by that.  I was trying to make fun of myself for my lack of knowledge in the arena.  The meme is from a show called "The Office".  The guy in the picture is a loveable moron.  We share some commonality.  No harm intended.  Thank y'all for your assistance!


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## Aukai (Jan 9, 2021)

All I know about electricity is don't let the smoke out, and if your the ground, it's not a comfortable feeling. I have an electrician friend who did wiring for my garage on standby for the VFD at friend pricing. Mark has a list for everything needed, some assembly required, and I got the VFD from PM for my 1340, EBay might be cheaper.


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## Logan Novice (Jan 9, 2021)

Serpico1985 said:


> I can go with a 6" chuck if it makes more sense.  I guess ............


Just to make sure there's non confusion, my remarks endorsing the 6" *jaw*, not the six inch chuck. It's that six jaw security that impresses me most for gun smithing.


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## mksj (Jan 10, 2021)

No offense on the picture, I thought it was a bit of humor, but then I may not know what it relates too. We all start out at that level and then learn along the way.

To do a basic VFD install for this lathe will run around $600-700 inclusive of the VFD (WJ200-15SF), enclosure, braking resistor, power switch and wiring. Time to build out the VFD enclosure and program the VFD, figure 6-8 hours for the basics. It is  straight forward wiring, but if one is not familiar with electrical wiring then takes longer and definitely have an electrician check everything before powering it up. It takes time to go through everything and get a grasp on what to do, after you have done one it gets much quicker. You could also look for a used RPC, but I feel the VFD is a better option for the 1340GT due to the rapid controlled braking. Most of what you need is detailed in the enclosure document at the end of the thread for the 1340GT basic install.

As far as chucks, they all have their strength and drawbacks. A 6J scroll is often the last chuck one gets, it has the least amount of holding power and also if your stock is not perfectly round, the jaw pressure will be uneven. I guess one could always remove three of the Jaws. They are also a bit more challenging when it come to cleaning out the swarf. I would agree with David Best, and a few others that the bigger 8" scroll type chuck is a bit cumbersome and heavy. I probably would go with a 6.3" (160mm) 3J scroll and their D1-4 direct mount 8" 4J independent which will give you a lot of flexibility and cost wise is about the same as if you purchased a single 6J 8". But it is all a matter of preference. I do use an 8" Bison combination chuck which is a scroll+independent and at 85+ lbs is a bit of a beast, I have 6 chucks.

I initially tried an ER-40 holder in my chuck, but never worked that well so I made my own ER40 Set-True chuck (this was before the Shar's ER40 Zero-Set was available).  When I am using collets, often my hands are very near or almost touching the chuck, I wouldn't want to have my hands anywhere near a collet holder in a jawed chuck, much safer a dedicated collet chuck which is smooth. The Shar's ER40 Zero-Set is relatively inexpensive, about $250 with a back plate. As I indicated QMT/PM was suppose to be stocking a similar 5C Set-True type for around the same price, so either one would be a good option for round stock under 1".

Bison 5C chuck.


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## davidpbest (Jan 10, 2021)

Serpico1985 said:


> mksj,
> 
> I appreciate  your thorough response!  I have read that other thread about surface finish issues.  I get what your saying about getting a 3ph machine and adding a VFD.  I did not realize that I could use single phase with the VFD/3ph lathe though.  It certainly sounds like it is the best option.  The problem I'm running into is that I know even less about electricity than I do lathes!  Haha.  I'm apprehensive about doing it, assuming I could switch out my order for a 3ph machine with PM, because I would be at the mercy of my electrician as to what he would charge to do this.  And I'd have to buy a VFD from someone as you mention.
> 
> ...


You don't want an electrician.  You want Mark Jacobs to build you a VFD control system.  DM Mark - super guy - he is mksj BTW.


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## davidpbest (Jan 10, 2021)

I agree with Mark - putting an ER40 collet chuck into a 3J scroll chuck is asking for an accident.  It can compound TIR issues as well.  Mark's comments about ER versus 5C are all valid, but for various reasons I standardized on ER40 and have ER40 Set-True collet chuck for the lathe (which _*I also made*_), ER40 R-8 for the mill spindle and rotary table, ER40 MT3 collet chuck for the lathe tailstock, and of course the ER40 square and hexagon collet blocks. You can cover the entire 0-1" range with 26 metric ER40 collets, but it takes 64 of the 5C collets to cover the same range. We all have our preferences. LOL The Bison 5C would be the way to go IMO if you wanted 5C collets.


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## Rifleman1384 (Jan 10, 2021)

Serpico, Welcome, I have been reading and keeping up with this thread since I am on the same road as you just a turn or two and a straight away ahead of you. 

First of all you are in the right place for your new hobby (addiction), the folks here are VERY helpful and willing to share what has worked for them and this in it self will save you headaches and $$ overtime but their knowledge will also cost you $$ because you will get to where you want to be in the end faster. Read, read, read the threads here and ask lots of questions, that is what I have been doing. 

PM can get you the VFD if that is the route you want (need ,should) go. My VFD will ship with the machine. My only prior experience with one was installing one on my Bridgeport Mill, intimating at first YES. It's not that complicated really. The system that most here use and what I am in process of getting and will use is the one designed by Mark (mksj) here. One of my concerns was would it effect the warranty on my new still in route machine to convert the system over. Per Matt at PM absolutely will not effect the warranty they provide. Please read the threads about the system and the additional flexibility it will give you, I too have much to learn but the additional control and safety will be helpful in my journey and I felt using this system was where I wanted to be in the end anyway.  

On the chucks. Per Matt at PM they have a "High Precision 5-C Adjustable Collet Chuck" I have one included in my order, it will come with the correct D backing plate for my machine. If you call PM to inquire John (sales) may not know much about it. When I called to check status of everything on my order and get newest (third) arrival date he stated that Matt was handling them direct. When I ordered I did speak with Matt since I had a few specific questions before I took the plunge and added it. I did ask about an upgraded chuck and was told nothing above what they have listed was available but now I have seen they seem to be able to provide some of the popular brands you are hearing about. If you get the PM 3 and or 4 jaw just make sure the thru hole in the chuck will not take away from the spindle bore that you have. Their 4 jaw chuck thru hole is slightly smaller than the spindle bore of the machine I have ordered, while their 3 jaw chuck is supposed to be fine in that regard. I looked a LOT and even started a thread here asking about chucks similar to this one and received a lot of very good advise. I decided and went with a Bison 4 Jaw, found it on EBAY listed as NIB. It came from Canada and was expensive but even with the shipping and cost of the chuck I got a forged 4 Jaw for just under half price and it is butter smooth. 

Many here will tell you tooling will cost as much as your machine, some will be under and some will be over that, in the end I think I that is a very reasonable figure. Go slow do your research (that's been half the fun for me) tooling can be bought over time once you have some basics to get started. Lots of folks seem happy with less expensive items and some seem to try and buy the best, I have been trying to purchase quality tooling as I am going along, it spreads out the cost (pain) somewhat. I hope this helps a little.
Steve


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## Kiwi Canuck (Jan 10, 2021)

Welcome to the HM forum, you have been given some great advice here regarding chucks and also the 3 phase motor option and installation of a VFD.

I strongly recommend you consider the VFD installation, and it's probably not too late to make a change in your order to a 3phase motor.

Before I did mine, I did have some wiring knowledge so it was not too difficult to make the decision to go that route, you just need common sense and someone familiar with machine and control wiring to review your work before powering the system up.

I used my 16 year old son to program the VFD based on Mark Jacobs detailed programming guide and he was also able to find an error in my install that caused the system to not run, so it just requires the desire and time to get it done. 

The functionality of the lathe with the variable speed and the fast braking is amazing, worth the effort for sure.

Just because someone is an electrician does not qualify them for this work, many have never worked on motor controls, let alone VFD's  but they can be a good resource for installing the wiring up to the VFD enclosure.

You could always ask Mark Jacobs if he's willing to build the system for you, he has built a few systems for others here.

BTW here is a link to my journey into these machines, delivery of the machines start on page 10 and the VFD install starts page 12








						New Member From Langley Bc Ready To Start Lathe & Mill Shopping
					

I found this forum by following Mike from ZMotorsports on another forum. He has a very nice review of both of his PM machines and I have been looking to get into outfitting my shop/garage with a few machines, so here I am.  I am a bit overwhelmed with all the options available but I believe I...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


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## davidpbest (Jan 10, 2021)

Kiwi Canuck said:


> Just because someone is an electrician does not qualify them for this work, many have never worked on motor controls, let alone VFD's  but they can be a good resource for installing the wiring up to the VFD enclosure.



Well said.  Totally concur.


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## Dan_S (Jan 10, 2021)

I don't know why it is, but generally when machines come with chucks the three jaw is usually a size or two smaller than the Four jaw.


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## Serpico1985 (Jan 10, 2021)

Ok. Ok.  I'm sold.  I'm going to call PM tomorrow and see about switching my order to a 3 phase.  It may take longer to get it running vs the single phase but with so many of y'all saying its the way to go I'd be crazy not to.  

I'll worry about chucks later, this will eat up all the chuck money I assume.  But I have taken your suggestions to heart.  

I'm still unclear on a few things but at this point they are just details.  Seems like it would be awesome if PM would offer this from the factory, a 3 phase set up with VFD.  I never got the price list for the chucks.  When I call tomorrow I'll make sure to get that info and post it.

Thanks, and I'm sure I'll be bothering y'all some more.


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## wrmiller (Jan 11, 2021)

Rich V said:


> I purchased the 8" Gator 6 jaw set true chuck for my PM1340 and I'm very satisfied with the chuck.
> 
> http://gatorchucksonline.com/Scroll...pb-series-6-jaw-153-semi-steel/1-153-0800.htm
> This chuck gets used for 99% of my work.
> ...



I also run a 8" (actually 8 1/4") 3-jaw on my 1340GT. A 8" 4-jaw and 5" collet chuck are also occasionally used when needed, but the 3-jaw spends the most time on the lathe.


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## Larry$ (Jan 11, 2021)

When I ordered my 1440 from PM I ordered their collet chuck at the same time. Turned out to be a very nice chuck. It is the "Set-true" type. I got their set of 5C collets (by 32s) at the same time. I've checked them by setting up with gage pins and the runout has been minimal. If you are doing something that has to be as close to dead on as possible you can use the adjusting screws much like a 4 jaw.  If you change collets a lot the lever type would be the ticket. Not sure how they work with long stock held in the bore. Only once was I doing something that I needed to change collets a lot. I made a tool for my battery driver that worked OK. I've used my collet chuck far more than I thought I would. I have a 3/4" square and several smaller ones by 64ths and the internal stop. Unlike jaw chucks they don't damage the work.


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## Dan_S (Jan 11, 2021)

Larry$ said:


> Not sure how they work with long stock held in the bore.



The draw tube and lever are hollow, so the stock passes right through!


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