# starrett 98 level not level



## boringbar (Apr 8, 2012)

I have a Starrett 98 8" level I want to use for, what else, levelling my lathe and it performs exceedingly well. I also have a 98-6" level in need of help, it will not level. In the past, to test levels, I'd do so rotating them 180. This one will level in 1 direction but is quite far out when rotated. I would like to adjust it, it has the screws for this but what to adjust, it's level unidirectional. Would the glass be defective, all else looks well cared for. Thank you for your help.BB


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## Redirish (Apr 8, 2012)

I would suggest sending it to Starrett. I have seen this before, actually on a 98-6, I believe the vial was ground wrong.:thinking:


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## boringbar (Apr 8, 2012)

Thank you Irish, methinks you're right. I hope I can find a return address in Canada.


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## Redirish (Apr 8, 2012)

Starrett Company of Canada, 1244 Kamato Rd. Mississauga, ON, L4W 1Y1. Phone, 905-624-2750.


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## boringbar (Apr 8, 2012)

Wow, thanks RedIrish, you got that info faster than I did. Mind you I've been doing Easter stuff all day. That address is only about 15 min from where I work, again thanks for the help.BB


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## boringbar (Apr 9, 2012)

Thanks guys, I'm going to call Starrett to see how much they want for the vial replacement. Lucky for me I can get there after work to save on the shipping costs. I'll let you know how it goes. Again, thanks.


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## Old Iron (Apr 9, 2012)

Just throwing this in.

How to level a Starrett or any other kind of adjustable level. Take a framing square and lay it on a flat surface the surface doesn't need to be level.

 Fix the square so it won't move and if your doing a 12 Level you can set it on 12" and 12" Marks. Make sure you make the square so when you turn it 180 that it sets in the same place.

Then you adjust it until it reads the same both ways and your level will be level.

Paul


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## Redirish (Apr 10, 2012)

That only works if the vial is accurate. Been there, done that. I've replaced several vials on Starrett levels after some ham-fisted idiot dropped them, and have found one with a defective vial that could not be adjusted. You are right on about putting the level in the same position, I use a felt tip marker on the surface plate.


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## Old Iron (Apr 10, 2012)

I only put that up because I figured some of the new guys mite not know about it. Anyhow I've had some bad vials to.

Paul


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## boringbar (Apr 10, 2012)

I called Starrett today and found that a replacement "plug&glass"(?, the easiest way to fix it) will cost me about $67. That's 1/2 the cost of a new one. I didn't drop, smack, kick or throw it, I'm very careful with good stuff. Last time I used one the guy I was working with thought I was being a "smarty pants" by wiping the base each time I took a reading. He thought I was overdoing it.  No matter, somehow it must have gotten smacked. Glad it wasn't my 8"er.  Thanks for all the input, nice to have the help.


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## Starlight Tools (Apr 11, 2012)

If it is a defective vial, I would be politely checking to see if there is any way they would warranty it.

Walter


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## boringbar (Apr 12, 2012)

When I called Starrett I was my usual "Mr Nice Guy", very courteous.  I explained the problem and said I though it was a "quality" issue, not an abuse problem.  She gave me the number of the repair plug/vial I'd have to purchase. I politely again tried to let her know the level was manufactured with this defect but all she would do was give me the part # and price. She also let me know the repair items were about 1/2 the cost of a new level. I guess all those years at the "Attila the Hun Charm School"didn't pay off and were a total waste of time and effort. Except of course for the riding a horse, shooting a bow and pillaging but that doesn't go over well on a job resume. Thanks, you guys are full of helpful stuff.


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## rmsflorida (Apr 21, 2012)

*New stuff is not like the Old Starret*

Starret farms out a lot of the produt manufacturing to 3rd. world countrys..
Big diffrence in the Old Starret and the NEW "JUNK" they make now..
It's all greed for the dollar..

Robbie


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## PurpLev (May 5, 2012)

*Re: statarrett 98 level not level*

Have you tried to level the level using adjusting bolt?


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## boringbar (May 6, 2012)

Yes, yes and yes. First thing I do is the "flip" test with a level, to be sure it's correct. It didn't pass this so I spent about an hour, or more, trying to adjust the level with the adjustment screws. Thanks for thinking about this though, sometimes we forget to try the simplest things first.


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## PurpLev (May 6, 2012)

boringbar said:


> Yes, yes and yes. First thing I do is the "flip" test with a level, to be sure it's correct. It didn't pass this so I spent about an hour, or more, trying to adjust the level with the adjustment screws. Thanks for thinking about this though, sometimes we forget to try the simplest things first.



heh... yeah, didn't see any reference to it being done, so figured I'd raise the question to make sure this is not a "DOH" moment 

Cheers


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## boringbar (May 6, 2012)

I've had a pile of "DOH" moments so I always appreciate it when someone give me a reminder. Thanks.


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## Toolmaker51 (Jan 16, 2020)

Reversing the level 180° is a test for repeatability; not true level.
Without working the calibration screws myself, it would be hard telling whether base, vial,  or mount were at fault. The first method I use are matching feeler gauges, Jo blocks, reamer blanks [anything accurate] just at the ends. Then I pass a .001 smaller along the gap underneath.
This leads to a note about machine leveling. On a long bed to table, I start with a 2', 4' to 8' box beam level, dependent on space, another at 90°. Each are perched on _matching_ 'supports' like 1-2-3's to bridge obstructions. This makes reading movement as it nears level, not 'twist'; very common in lathes. Then the good levels come out. Once I know the pitch of leveling screws [vertical movement per full turn] and distance between the supports, it simplifies estimates how far 3 of the corners need adjustment. I say 3 corners, not how many screws there are.  Paint a stripe on the locknut, making incremental changes less of a guess.
One more helper; a pair of wedges; hardwood, aluminum, or bandsawn steel. The angle is shallow enough to fit between floor and machine base. Often trying to make final adjustments, too much compensation is made. OK. Before backing off, slip the wedge in; then back off the  screw it will be carrying far less weight. Wedge can be tapped/ wiggled out as the screw just re-contacts the floor, it will be lower than before, just slightly.


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