# Unheated shop rust prevention



## skrewd (Jan 16, 2018)

Hello any miracle products or than grease to prevent sweat rust on machines in unheated shops? Never ending battle I am losing.


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## f350ca (Jan 16, 2018)

Fluid Film https://nlsproducts.ca/shop/products/fluid-film seams to work well. The last time I moved I sprayed all my machines with WD40 thinking it was short term storage in a 20 foot sea container. Within a week or two I started seeing rust. Bought a gallon of this and brushed it on everything. The tools were in storage for a little over a year. Wiped them down with solvent and found no rust at all. Sold me. Has a funny smell, probably the lanolin in it, sure softens your hands.

Greg


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## middle.road (Jan 16, 2018)

Been fighting for over 5 years now in East TN, and keep losing the battle.
I put furniture paste wax on the Table Saws and Drill Press tables and cheap vises and it working pretty well,
metal working tooling not so much. 
WDNich gave me a sample of this (Ballistol) that I've use on 1-2-3 Blocks, Angles, Lathe Chucks, Albrecht Chucks, fine hand tools, ETC. and it is working very well.
-=- LINK -=-


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## Dredb (Jan 16, 2018)

Insulate your shop, seal gaps around doors and windows then use a dehumidifier. If this is not possible then f350ca has the other answer.


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## skrewd (Jan 16, 2018)

Thanks on order, will give it a try.

Can’t seal the barn at this time and the two car garage is my woodworking area even its bonus room has over ten grand in cherry, “I will use eventually “.lol


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## Dredb (Jan 16, 2018)

middle.road, not sure what you mean by furniture paste wax but I have had good results with beeswax furniture polish. Excellent for cast iron and steel. Gives a protective coat (more than one coat may be applied) and makes handles and wheels much more pleasant to touch.
Dredb


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## skrewd (Jan 16, 2018)

I haven’t had success with bees wax, in my case the bees come back to reclaim it, I don’t argue with them.


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## Dredb (Jan 16, 2018)

Can’t seal the barn at this time and the two car garage is my woodworking area even its bonus room has over ten grand in cherry said:
			
		

> One of the guys over here built a shed inside his barn. This was a stone barn in the north of England (damp), it was grade 3 listed (heritage site) so he wasn't allowed to make alterations to the building. Just an idea, worked for him!


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## Dredb (Jan 16, 2018)

skrewd said:


> I haven’t had success with bees wax, in my case the bees come back to reclaim it, I don’t argue with them.



  Yes, there may be a difference in the formulation of wax polishes, paste furniture and car waxes over here contain a high proportion of water, which is not what's needed. The stuff I'm talking about is mostly beeswax with the addition of camphor and not much else, it is not cheap and is intended for antique furniture, really is very good on metal. We usually swap the wax for some sugar so the bees are happy too!
Dredb


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## C-Bag (Jan 16, 2018)

I live on the coast and my shop is un heated and uninsulated. I was talking to a guy who rebuilt machine tools for a living for most of his life. He was the one who told me about Fluid Film. Goofy name, goofy dated looking can, not cheap, but totally amazing stuff! Best of all it's completely non toxic and seems to last forever. And it's available at auto parts stores. It has completely stopped all the rust on all my machines and one can goes a long way. I told my neighbor who has a fishing boat that fishes off the coast here and it's stopped all his rust.


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## kvt (Jan 16, 2018)

CRC makes a spray  on protective coating (SP-400) that I have been using on stuff as a clean it up and it seems to be working good.   I'm cleaning stuff then spray it down.  move on.  So far it has worked.   then just wipe it down when I start working and lightly spray down again afterwards.


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## 7milesup (Jan 16, 2018)

I use Boeshield T-9.  works very well.

>>Linky Here<<


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## Joncooey (Jan 16, 2018)

I feel your pain SKREWD.  Even with the machines covered this is what I had last time it hit -27C (-20F) here on the North shore of Lake Ontario.   I can have the wood-stove going all day and it won't help much with these temps; shop's a bit breezy.  Definitely going to try that Fluid Film idea, F350ca; I've seen it in stores, thanks for the info.  Wouldn't want to put your tongue on that Anvil, eh?


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## Bob Korves (Jan 16, 2018)

The only real answer is to always have the shop temperature above the dew point.  Here that happens pretty much naturally.  In northern and humid climates, you will need to heat above the dew point, or lower the dew point by removing the moisture, or do both.  Rust inhibitors can only do so much for so long, water and rust always win.


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## f350ca (Jan 16, 2018)

All that frost makes me shiver. I luckily heat the shop and house with a wood fired boiler so I don't have those issues in the winter. Summer is another story, the machine shop stays at about 17 C all summer. If I open the big doors on hot humid days the tools are all covered in  literately  a 1/4 inch of water. Wipe and oil time.

Greg


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## skrewd (Jan 16, 2018)

okay orderd Boeshield can which I have used before on my Barrett but I need the spray can version this time. 

I wasn’t thinking out side the box, I cover everything in plastic. Was going to double cover with a tarp but an building inside a building, why didn’t I consider that. Far easier, quick and when I make another “man cavern”, I can make it a tack room.


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## skrewd (Jan 16, 2018)

Did Amazon today and The Home Depot tomorrow, thanks great suggestions, I am using them all, sprays ,two walls and a door, insulation, tyvex roll, space heater. This will work, thanks again.


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## ConValSam (Jan 17, 2018)

f350ca said:


> Fluid Film https://nlsproducts.ca/shop/products/fluid-film seams to work well



+1 to Greg: I use it all the time.

Also LPS 3 is well regarded across the interwebs... I have not used this LPS product much, but can heartily endorse LPS 1 for more temporary lubrication and moisture eradication.


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## EmilioG (Jan 18, 2018)

Dow Corning Molykote Rust Prevention Film is the longest lasting product I've used to date.  Fluid Film needs to be reapplied every year or so, depending on use. ( I use it on the underside of my cars, NY winters and all).  It smells terrible for a few weeks.  A dehumidifier will also go a long way at keeping rust at bay. Small hand tools? I keep them wrapped in Zero Rust CorTec Vci paper.  Works great.  Machines; A bit more difficult, where you can't really get to all parts of the machine.  Without a temp/Humidity controlled room, the rust battle gets very difficult. Meticulous maintenance and cleaning/oiling may be your only bet.  There's a great book called "
*Rust: The Longest War *
by Jonathan Waldman  (Author)


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## Bob Korves (Jan 18, 2018)

I bought some Armor type MPI VPI paper on eBay and put it in with many of my tools.  It works.  Make sure the grade of VPI you get is appropriate for the material and conditions you are working with.  The Armor VCI paper is also coated on both sides.
http://armorvci.net/wrap35.htm
https://www.armorvci.com/wp-content/uploads/ARMOR-WRAP-MPI-60-Product-Data-Sheet.pdf
The 30G that is currently being sold on eBay is also good for ferrous metals:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-BIG-she...139963?hash=item4b2be7837b:g:kSEAAOSwaLhZe5yL
https://www.armorvci.com/wp-content/uploads/ARMOR-WRAP-30G-Product-Data-Sheet.pdf
Store the VPI in an air tight container so it is still good when you need it.


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## brasssmanget (Jan 18, 2018)

For what it's worth, Fluidfilm spray has worked very well for me here in WI - it does get below 15 degrees in my shop quite often during the winter months.....sometimes below (-) 0 for a few days at a time....


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## C-Bag (Jan 18, 2018)

As a small manufacturer I have parts laser cut and then have to store them until I powdercoat them. So I can't just squirt stuff down because it's too hard to clean for powdercoating. I thought about the paper wrapping and while looking into it found this https://www.theruststore.com/Bull-Frog-Rust-Blocker-Strips-P23C22.aspx

These are used by local fisherman to keep their tackle from rusting from the salt water. So I bought a couple of packs and also found a good sized plastic storage box with a nice seal at Target. The Bullfrog strips are like foam with a sticky back so you can stick them on the lid of a tackle box. You don't want to have your pieces you are trying to keep from corroding resting on the strips, so I stick them high inside the box where pieces don't rest on them. This has totally stopped my rust problem which has sped things up for me because before this I spent more time cleaning up the pieces than powdercoating! I have left some stuff for months in the box and they look like I just put them in there. And best of all it leaves nothing on the pieces that imped the powdercoat from sticking.


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## skrewd (Jan 18, 2018)

The rust store, that site should just about cover it.

Now if the mail would finally deliver in this five inch snow, my old firebird had no trouble in this but her “new jeep does “, I should loan her my cj7,lol


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## rwm (Jan 18, 2018)

Fluid film works great and last a long time. Unfortunately your tools smell like wet sheep...
Robert


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## skrewd (Jan 18, 2018)

Is that like wet dog? Is it musty like mildew? Rust is my enemy, I could make a few passes with sulfur cutting oil on the lathe to perfume up the shop.


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## juiceclone (Jan 19, 2018)

dehumidifier .. more than one if the shop is large enough. I have mine on a timer to run at night into morning.  They actually add a little heat to the air too.  If U get the moisture in the air down low enough, the rust problem will disappear.      Unless u leave doors open, then ...oh well.... smelling like wet dog is in your future.... :>)


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## KBeitz (Sep 14, 2018)

I use a product called Slip-it. It works great on my cast iron table saw. It's kinda like a wax...
You put it on with a brush and it drys. You can;t see or feel if when you finished. No more rust problem.


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## AJ (Sep 15, 2018)

Mobil Vactra 2 and thin plastic layed on the bed and ways..Kept things rust free all winter and this incredibly humid summer !


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## pineyfolks (Sep 15, 2018)

I've used most of the spray lubricants and rust preventive coatings but the best thing I did was install 2 large ceiling fans that run continuously in my shop. Keeping the air moving makes it harder to condense on my equipment during large temperature changes.


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## drivermark (Sep 15, 2018)

I've had pretty good luck using chainsaw bar oil, I spread it on pretty thick with a cheapo chip brush after wiping every thing down with a WD40 soaked rag to displace any moisture. I'm sure there are better ways but this works for me. I'm located in NW Oregon so it does get a bit damp here.


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## tweinke (Sep 16, 2018)

Along with the rust preventative products a ceiling fan in my shop made a huge difference for me.


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## JPigg55 (Sep 16, 2018)

tweinke said:


> Along with the rust preventative products a ceiling fan in my shop made a huge difference for me.


This is the recommendation I'd make. Not a complete prevention, but the air flow helps prevent condensation of moisture on things.
I insulated my shop, but still run a small fan and haven't had hardly any rust issues except where the  airflow can't get to like under my milling vise and under the saddle of my lathe. I try and keep a light coating of oil in these areas where possible.


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## psgflier (Sep 16, 2018)

Dehumidifiers only work if there is heat, if the area is unheated they won't work. Moisture gets trapped and condenses under plastic so creates more problem than it solves. I've tried all the different oils and sprays, the only thing that consistently works is paralketone, it's like cosmoline. you can get it from aircraft supply outfits like Aircraft Spruce or WagAero, It can be brushed on straight or mixed with paint thinner and spayed on. I use it on my floatplane which is operated in salt water exclusively.  It's messy and a pain to remove, but it works.
I built covers from cardboard with wood frames to cover each of my tools and put in a ceramic 50 watt heater that fits in a standard light socket. Used to use 100 watt light bulbs but you cann't get them anymore and the heaters last a lot longer. Just need to keep the temp of the tool above ambient air temp so the moisture in the air doesn't condense on the tool. I can just take the cover off and the tool is ready to go without having to clean the gunk from it.  60% humidity is dry here.


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## gasengin (Sep 18, 2018)

In an unheated shop, do no cover the equipment.  When the moisture condenses on the equipment, the moisture is held around the equipment by the cover and make the problem much worse.  Now if you were to put a heat source under the cover like psgflier recommends, that should work great.


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## Doubleeboy (Sep 18, 2018)

pineyfolks said:


> I've used most of the spray lubricants and rust preventive coatings but the best thing I did was install 2 large ceiling fans that run continuously in my shop. Keeping the air moving makes it harder to condense on my equipment during large temperature changes.



Yup,  ceiling, or floor fans, anything that keeps the air moving will dramatically reduce  rusting IME.  Even in an unheated, leaky shop with wild temp swings air movement will make a large difference.


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## Janderso (Sep 18, 2018)

Rust, what is that?
One beautiful thing about California.
That Ontario place looks really cold.


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## Tozguy (Sep 19, 2018)

Another vote here for dehumidifier and good ventilation in a climate controlled shop. Outside the shop Fluid Film or other auto rust prevention products like Rust Check, etc. The creamy stuff is especially good in trailer wiring connectors to prevent corrosion.


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## SamI (Sep 19, 2018)

gasengin said:


> Now if you were to put a heat source under the cover like psgflier recommends, that should work great.



That's how I get around the rust problem on my lathe.  A tarpaulin over the machine and a small 40W tubular heater mounted on a block of wood resting on the ways.  Costs next to nothing to run and keeps my machine nice and warm.  It also acts as a nice hand warmer when i'm using the lathe in winter!

I also stick some silica gel in the tool chest which does a good job of keeping the spanners, screwdrivers etc. rust free.  If I've got the furnace on at around 100 deg C I can then dry the silica gel periodically.


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## Ken from ontario (Sep 19, 2018)

I have an unheated shop in Ontario and use electric heaters mostly , I do have one  propane heater with a blower but it only goes on for 10 minutes to get the chill out ,any longer than that it will create a lot of moisture on metal surfaces so 10 min. intervals is the only way I know to keep the moisture in check.
During the night I set up a small electric heater on a timer that goes on /off hourly. it blows hot air around the shop and keeps the place around 60°F all night. I have no rust  on any of the metal surfaces and the once a year wax goes a long way to keep the tools rust free.


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## BGHansen (Sep 19, 2018)

My shop is mostly unheated, have a 30K BTU propane heater that heats up my 32' x 40' shop about 30 F above ambient in 45 minutes but only run it in a pinch.  I have 2 ceiling fans that turn 24/7/365 as mentioned above, keep the air moving.  I spray down most iron with LPS1 as I picked up over 5 gallons of it at an auction years ago.  LPS3 would work better, but I'm pretty rust free with just air movement and LPS1.  

I also have a plastic Folgers can with way oil and a paint brush.  Really slather it on the lathe beds, chucks, compound, etc. and mill tables.  I use Johnson's paste wax on my cast iron table saw.  I always dread spring when the cold mornings give me a wet floor in the shop from condensation, but knock on wood, tools are rust free.

Bruce


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## pontiac428 (Sep 19, 2018)

Camphor blocks in the tool chest work as a fumigant and antioxidant, AKA Zerust.


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