# How portable is a 7x16 lathe?



## twigg (Feb 22, 2021)

Hi all, sorry my first post is such an oddball question.

I work out of borrowed space. My landlord lets me use his work space provided I don't cause problems, so all my tools need to be portable. I store my tools up a flight of spiral stairs. In short, my first lathe needs to be light enough for a single person to lift up stairs. I'm guessing 60lbs is the max I can lift in one trip safely. 

I was reading about the micromark and littlemachineshop 7x16 lathes, and see that they're about 90lbs. How much weight could be removed? I imagine I can make a separate trip for the tailstock and chuck, which I'm guessing would together be about 15-20lbs. Can the carriage also be easily removed?

And lastly, how much of a pain will it be to re-align the lathe after disassembly and reassembly? More than 30 minutes of fiddling?

If you have other suggestions that don't involve a 7x16 lathe, I'm totally open minded here. Just trying to figure out what could work and what won't work before I make any decisions.

Thanks!


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## DavidR8 (Feb 22, 2021)

I used to have a 7x lathe and while it was not something that I wanted to move around a lot, it was definitely ‘portable’. 
I think you’ll want to bolt it to a sturdy base so that it’s easier to pick up. 
Maybe a piece of 3/4” plywood?


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## mickri (Feb 22, 2021)

I would mount it on a thick piece of plywood like DavidR8 said and have a handcart that you attach it to.  Then you are only lifting it one step at a time going up the stairs.  Better yet might be a portable stand like you can buy for a miter saw.  Something like this. https://www.harborfreight.com/400-lb-universal-mobile-folding-miter-saw-stand-62750.html


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## Flyinfool (Feb 22, 2021)

I had a small late like that for a while, It lived in a HD canvase duffel bag. The guy I sold it to used it on top of the wife's washer / dryer set, So it was back in the duffel bag IMMEDIATELY after each use. AND don't dare loose a chip into the laundry.


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## Bi11Hudson (Feb 22, 2021)

Having used a 7X14(essentially the same machine) a few years back, I frequently handled it with one hand. Not tackling stairs, just moving it around the shop. The spiral stairs will limit you on the size of a handtruck. The saw stand might work or you could use a lighter luggage carrier. Tailstock and chuck would be no problem to reinstall. But with a handtruck there would be no disassembly. Yiu could even leave WIP in the chuck. The machine is one step away from a lightweight.

.


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## twigg (Feb 22, 2021)

Thanks again all!

I'm leaning towards a plywood base because of the fewer variables and less bouncing the machine around, but I like both ideas! I think if I'm careful to watch the center of mass, I can rest the plywood base on the handrail and slide it up (staircase is all steel, not worried about hurting it). It's only my landlord's truck down below, no pressure!  I figure if I try that and it doesn't work or feels too sketchy, I'll go for the portable base / handtruck.


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## hman (Feb 23, 2021)

I haven't owned a 7" lathe ... but a big chunk of weight on any lathe is the motor.  You might be able to dismount/remount the motor, along with the chuck and tailstock.  Maybe even dismount the compound from the cross slide?

PS - a warm and hearty welcome to the forum!


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## Ty955 (Feb 23, 2021)

I own a LMS 7X16 lathe and even removing the tailstock, carriage and chuck still would leave you with a heavy and unbalanced machine. I occasionally move my 7X16 within my garage but only for a few feet, it's a lot heavier than you think and difficult to grip and carry.


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## tghsmith (Feb 23, 2021)

what type of work are you planning on?


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## mikey (Feb 23, 2021)

A Sherline long bed lathe only weighs 35#. Something to consider.


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## tghsmith (Feb 23, 2021)

I just took a look at my 7 x 16 (LMS 7350) to even think about "stairs"  tailstock and chuck removed are a must, chip shield and bottom tray so you might get a better grip.. tool holder, compound and handwheels, not much weight but easily damaged.. if it was a once a month thing I might think about it, but the chances of damaging the lathe or myself would point in the "no" direction..  I've seen some incredible things made on  Sherlines, unimats and other lathes..


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## Aaron_W (Feb 23, 2021)

A 7x16 weighs about 90lbs, I don't see losing 1/3 of the weight in a way that makes sense every time you want to use it.

A couple of options, most involving a smaller lathe.

A 7x10 is half the length ( in reality these are 7x8 lathes) so both lighter and less awkward to move, less length but maintains the swing. A Sherline, Taig, Unimat or Proxxon are all much more portable and offer more precision at the cost of size.

Is there any possibility, you could store the lathe out of the way in the workshop instead of carrying it upstairs?


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## Flyinfool (Feb 23, 2021)

If you do have to carry it upstairs after every use, Find a way to mount good handles to it. A proper grip and balanced weight will feel a lot lighter than something hard to hold and or unbalanced. That is why the duffel bag worked well, good handles for a comfortable grip and all weight is below the grip for good balance.


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## twigg (Feb 23, 2021)

Thanks again for the replies! Definitely rethinking things once again. I really appreciate all the feedback!!



tghsmith said:


> what type of work are you planning on?


For now, I've been interested in custom propane burners for forges and hand torches. One day I'd like to try model steam engines, but I haven't thought at all about which plans I would follow. In the immediate future, the biggest parts I have in mind are (1) a stainless burner nozzle that's 1" OD x 1-1/2" long with a tapered ID starting at 0.724" and tapering up to 0.849 (it's a 1-1/2" length of stainless 3/4" schedule 80 pipe with a 1:12 internal taper), and (2) drilling a 25/64 hole on the center of a 1/4" black iron plumbing tee (see picture below, I'm talking about the hole in the plumbing tee where the brass fitting threads in).
View attachment 356867


The sherline and taig lathes are also on my shortlist, I just wasn't confident that they'd be able to handle the operations I described above. I have also looked at listings in my area, but all I've found are pricey 109s and a Hardinge cataract with the lever cross-slide and turret that I didn't think would be able to do what I want unless I found a compound for it and looks like it'd still be a bear to lift.

Do you think I'm asking for too much in too small a lathe?

I hear you on the possibility of damaging the lathe when moving it repeatedly.




Aaron_W said:


> Is there any possibility, you could store the lathe out of the way in the workshop instead of carrying it upstairs?


Unfortunately no. It's just one of the rules I got to follow using someone else's space.

Edit: I forgot I don't have full permissions yet and it looks like my picture doesn't come through. If you google "frosty tee burner", you'll find pictures of a larger version of what I meant to post. Just to give you an idea of where the hole is on the tee. The ones you'll see probably have 1" x 3/4" black iron tees, mine's a 1/4" x 1/4". On such a small burner, the accuracy of that drilled hole (how concentric it is relative to the rest of the burner) matters a lot. I ran into a wall of how accurate I could center that hole using a drill press after weeks of experimentation.


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## Aaron_W (Feb 25, 2021)

twigg said:


> Thanks again for the replies! Definitely rethinking things once again. I really appreciate all the feedback!!
> 
> 
> For now, I've been interested in custom propane burners for forges and hand torches. One day I'd like to try model steam engines, but I haven't thought at all about which plans I would follow. In the immediate future, the biggest parts I have in mind are (1) a stainless burner nozzle that's 1" OD x 1-1/2" long with a tapered ID starting at 0.724" and tapering up to 0.849 (it's a 1-1/2" length of stainless 3/4" schedule 80 pipe with a 1:12 internal taper), and (2) drilling a 25/64 hole on the center of a 1/4" black iron plumbing tee (see picture below, I'm talking about the hole in the plumbing tee where the brass fitting threads in).
> ...




Size wise your burner project could be done with a Sherline, Taig or 7x lathe, stainless would be the bigger issue. I've seen people make parts from stainless and titanium with a Sherline, but it can be challenging. Taig and Sherline are capable of better accuracy than the 7" lathes.


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## tghsmith (Feb 25, 2021)

an expert modeler on model engine maker  just machined a block for a compound steam engine from a section of 2.5" diameter by 3" long 303 stainless stock,, mainly using a sherline lathe and mill...


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## mikey (Feb 25, 2021)

Aaron_W said:


> Size wise your burner project could be done with a Sherline, Taig or 7x lathe, stainless would be the bigger issue. I've seen people make parts from stainless and titanium with a Sherline, but it can be challenging. Taig and Sherline are capable of better accuracy than the 7" lathes.



303 on a Sherline is easy. 304 is harder on any machine. 316 is a bear even on a big machine. I turn stainless prop shaft all the time on a Sherline lathe and have no issues with my HSS tools. You are limited primarily with the work envelope on a Sherline lathe, not so much the material.


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## ShagDog (Feb 25, 2021)

I find that my Taig lathe and Taig mill are very capable of accuracy and cutting various materials within reasonable size limits. The lathe weight is light. however, the mill is around the same weight as a mini lathe, if my recollection is correct.


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## twigg (Feb 25, 2021)

Thanks again!

All right, I'm sold on a sherline or taig. 

Yeah, I've never had a pleasant experience with stainless. My plan B is to make that part (flame nozzle) out of black iron pipe and make extras so it can be a consumable.


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## mikey (Feb 25, 2021)

Just be very clear on your work envelope.


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## twigg (Mar 15, 2021)

Just a final update on this. My taig lathe arrived today. It's the perfect weight for my lifting ability and the conditions. I got it upstairs with no issue, even in a foot of snow. And it turned my first part accurately to within 0.0005" (the resolution on my cheapo calipers, for what that's worth) on my first time running a lathe in years. I'm a happy camper  The part is an arbor that I can put in a 1/2" collet and screw a 1/4" NPT fitting onto.




P.S. Ignore what I was doing with the toolpost in the last picture, that's not how I had it set up for turning. I just used it like that at the end to very gently debur the ID after parting. 
P.P.S. I have a micrometer, but I wasn't gonna make another trip in the snow to fetch it for a simple part like this.


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## Superburban (Mar 15, 2021)

You done good, welcome to the club. The endless money hole club. Soon you will be watching Craigs list for more machines and tools.


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## DavidR8 (Mar 15, 2021)

Well done!


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## ShagDog (Mar 15, 2021)

Congratulations. You will enjoy the Taig lathe. I know I enjoy mine.


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## rogerd (Mar 31, 2022)

You might be able to mount a couple of these on it or a plywood base. I have used these for items that  are awkward to handle.


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## Gnpenning (Mar 31, 2022)

Nice. 

Is there any way you can put in a small crane type of lift?  Unistrut with a trolley as an example, you aren't lifting that much weight.  Many options for lifting.


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## ErichKeane (Mar 31, 2022)

I'd be tempted to try to have it in a 'steamer trunk' on wheels kinda thing. Perhaps big enough wheels to go up the stairs, but you could carry more weight presumably and save trips (and box in the lathe in a way that protected it).


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## wachuko (Mar 31, 2022)

Congratulations!!!


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## wachuko (Mar 31, 2022)

What TAIG lathe model did you end up going with?


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