# New Bridgeport Owner - needs help



## SunPro (Dec 8, 2013)

I recently purchased a series 1 mill - approx. 50 years young. The only issue was the fine downfeed with the hand wheel. I've tore it down and the problem hopefully is repaired. I am about to re-assemble but I need HELP with a few issues.

1.) In reassembling the trip mechanism / fine downfeed assembly - what lubricants are recommended? (for part#J-48/item# 103) cam rod, Ball on (part#J-49 / item#104), tryg Handle)

2) I was able to get the part#J-45 / item#121 (Trip Plunger) to move. There were fine chips lodged into the pin, at first I thought it was knurled! I have not been able to remove this pin. How is it removed? Is it pressed in?

3) When I removed (part#J-110 / item# 49) the Feed Reverse Bevel Gear - there was no lubrication. Is this typically lubricated per manual by spindle oil on the "Quill Bearings" 3-10 drops twice daily?

I will try to attach pictures of the trip mechanism to help understand to what I am referring.

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.


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## LEEQ (Dec 9, 2013)

I recommend getting the rebuild book. That should give insight on that stubborn part. Lube also. Lithium or silicone grease would work well on parts on both ends of the trip screw. Ie; ball lever, and trip lever. Also the downfeed engagement lever. I like spray can white lithium. As to the bevel gears I just oiled lightly as proper lube procedure should flood oil over these. I wish I had my book here instead of at the shop, I could be of better help. Good luck


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## SunPro (Dec 9, 2013)

LEEQ said:


> I recommend getting the rebuild book. That should give insight on that stubborn part. Lube also. Lithium or silicone grease would work well on parts on both ends of the trip screw. Ie; ball lever, and trip lever. Also the downfeed engagement lever. I like spray can white lithium. As to the bevel gears I just oiled lightly as proper lube procedure should flood oil over these. I wish I had my book here instead of at the shop, I could be of better help. Good luck



Broke down and ordered the book. I was trying to stick with being a "cheapskate" but I can see where if it saves me from trashing just one part - I'm dollars ahead.

I was debating oiling vs. grease type lubricant worrying that chips + grease equals an abrasive compound. In the tight spots, I would imagine oil could also hold the chips.


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## Bill C. (Dec 9, 2013)

SunPro said:


> I recently purchased a series 1 mill - approx. 50 years young. The only issue was the fine downfeed with the hand wheel. I've tore it down and the problem hopefully is repaired. I am about to re-assemble but I need HELP with a few issues.
> 
> 1.) In reassembling the trip mechanism / fine downfeed assembly - what lubricants are recommended? (for part#J-48/item# 103) cam rod, Ball on (part#J-49 / item#104), tryg Handle)
> 
> ...



The gears look very good for their age.  Likely your machine's previous owner(s) used a air hose to clean the machine. That blows chips everywhere.  Some of the shops I worked in did that.


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## SunPro (Dec 9, 2013)

Bill C. said:


> The gears look very good for their age.  Likely your machine's previous owner(s) used a air hose to clean the machine. That blows chips everywhere.  Some of the shops I worked in did that.



The Mill so far is in great shape for it's age.  The Owner was 95 when he recently passed away. It was in his workshop and most likely used rarely. It likely was pulled from his plastics mold company (still in operation and run by his children). I'm sure he picked the Best!

The table is autographed and I still need to tram it, for a final opinion!


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## LEEQ (Dec 9, 2013)

I'll see what I can see abt question2. First, though, some friendly advice. Bridgeport and others have multiple part numbers for the same thing depending on what they were calling it at the time. I find it helpful to stick with part names and a brief description if you think it necessary.


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## SunPro (Dec 9, 2013)

LEEQ said:


> I'll see what I can see abt question2. First, though, some friendly advice. Bridgeport and others have multiple part numbers for the same thing depending on what they were calling it at the time. I find it helpful to stick with part names and a brief description if you think it necessary.



Being new to a Bridgeport, I thought I was being helpful - especially since I haven't a clue how to properly name the parts. Hopefully the photo's made more sense.


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## LEEQ (Dec 9, 2013)

there is a roll pin in the side of the trip plunger 90 degrees to the notch the end of the cam rod goes in. take everything off the cam rod sleeve and remove the cam rod before removing the roll pin. there is a spring in there also, sparoinnggg. That's what it would sound like if I finessed it out of there. As to the lube, I steered you wrong according to the renovating book. They like Teflon grease for the reverse trip ball lever, the trip lever, and the trip lever pin. I used white lithium and having been back into it later am happy with the results I observed. They like 10 weight oil for the three trip plungers. two down low, and one up high under the ball lever. Good luck

- - - Updated - - -

photos are awesome! I'm not busting your balls and will help as I can. Sounds like you are doing great so far.

- - - Updated - - -

does your source for part numbers not have names?

- - - Updated - - -

Look around, but if you don't find  sheets that list numbers and names, I can scan something in in the next couple days. That stuff  is in the shop and I'm working long days. I haven't had much shop time. I just noticed the book in my truck not where it wasn't supposed to be.


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## LEEQ (Dec 9, 2013)

update some more, the back of the book has the same set of pictures and names/numbers you are working off of. If you need to, I can follow along without going to get anything. I would probably call item 104 the cam rod handle, I have the tryg thing also and would assume it's a mistake.I was in my quill housing not too far back, so I may have insight. If not there are folks around here that can help.


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## SunPro (Dec 10, 2013)

LEEQ said:


> there is a roll pin in the side of the trip plunger 90 degrees to the notch the end of the cam rod goes in. take everything off the cam rod sleeve and remove the cam rod before removing the roll pin. there is a spring in there also, sparoinnggg. That's what it would sound like if I finessed it out of there. As to the lube, I steered you wrong according to the renovating book. They like Teflon grease for the reverse trip ball lever, the trip lever, and the trip lever pin. I used white lithium and having been back into it later am happy with the results I observed. They like 10 weight oil for the three trip plungers. two down low, and one up high under the ball lever. Good luck
> 
> - - - Updated - - -
> photos are awesome! I'm not busting your balls and will help as I can. Sounds like you are doing great so far.
> ...





*
 Diagram to facilitate our discussion. 

 I have removed the Cam Rod & Trip Handle from the Cam Rod Sleeve. (including removal of roll pin 117 & pin 102)
 The feed trip plunger including pin #119 appears to be held in by only the "Trip Plunger Bushing"
 I insert a 1/8" punch thru the top hole of the cam rod sleeve (next to the number 118)
**Gently tapping, I was able to get the Feed Trip Plunger to move up and down against the pressure of the Feed Trip Plunger spring.
 However, the whole assemble seems firmly held by the Trip Plunger Bushing. The Pin #119 that rides on the Cam Rod is retained entirely by the Cam Rod Sleeve.
 I would like to remove the Feed Trip Plunger for cleaning, but hesitate driving the punch with enough force to remove the Trip Plunger Bushing. I am willing to leave the assembly in, now that it is working, rather than damage the spring and/or plunger.*

*We Bridgeport newbies appreciate guidance! I'm working at formatting questions in a traditional manner. All of the sudden, it seemed difficult to write coherent thought that could be understood.*

*Actually - I was using the names on my part number source. My new source uses more common part names. *

*Replies are Appreciated!*


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## LEEQ (Dec 10, 2013)

Ok, I couldn't resist. I tore mine down. Once you are as far along as you are, cam rod out of plunger, slip a long pin down the hole in the top of the block and drive the plunger down. It should move about a quarter inch before the bushing pops out. Not a lot of force necessary there. I removed the pin from mine, and can see no reason to do so other than to avoid bending it with the pin used for driving. A little extra care should avoid the need. If you decide to anyway, rotate the plunger 90 degrees and drive the pin down into the cavity the cam rod normally resides in.


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## SunPro (Dec 10, 2013)

LEEQ said:


> Ok, I couldn't resist. I tore mine down. Once you are as far along as you are, cam rod out of plunger, slip a long pin down the hole in the top of the block and drive the plunger down. It should move about a quarter inch before the bushing pops out. Not a lot of force necessary there. I removed the pin from mine, and can see no reason to do so other than to avoid bending it with the pin used for driving. A little extra care should avoid the need. If you decide to anyway, rotate the plunger 90 degrees and drive the pin down into the cavity the cam rod normally resides in.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



*Now I see why you are a Bronze member and I, swarf!  You go above and beyond the call of duty.

Thanks for the help - I'll give her a go!*


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## LEEQ (Dec 11, 2013)

I'm glad I can help. I have received so much help here. I want to be a part of passing that along. Me having a different little name than you just means I've asked more questions, run off at the mouth more, or some combination thereof. Good luck, Lee


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## xalky (Dec 12, 2013)

SunPro, your Bridgeport looks to be in excellent shape. Internally, the parts look brand new.)


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## SunPro (Dec 12, 2013)

LEEQ said:


> Ok, I couldn't resist. I tore mine down. Once you are as far along as you are, cam rod out of plunger, slip a long pin down the hole in the top of the block and drive the plunger down. It should move about a quarter inch before the bushing pops out. Not a lot of force necessary there. I removed the pin from mine, and can see no reason to do so other than to avoid bending it with the pin used for driving. A little extra care should avoid the need. If you decide to anyway, rotate the plunger 90 degrees and drive the pin down into the cavity the cam rod normally resides in.



Never did get the plunger out. End may be nicked - so since it worked, I decided to save $70 if I accidently trashed it!
Thanks for all the advice.

- - - Updated - - -



xalky said:


> SunPro, your Bridgeport looks to be in excellent shape. Internally, the parts look brand new.)



The Power Feed Transmission Engagement Lever was removed from the Bport head when I bought it. The gears may have not been used for a long time!

I've oiled up the cups and ran it through a few cycles with the Power Feed Engaged. Curious to see if it is getting any lubrication. I'll know as soon as I tear it down again.


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## Rbeckett (Dec 13, 2013)

I would be willing to bet the old fellow who had that machine wore out several oil can in his life time.  Old machinists were almost maniacal about oiling and lube and would often engage in protracted battles among themselves as to which particular brand of lube was the best.  My grandfather was the chief Electrician and engineer for Island Creek Coal way back many years ago and they used to gather at Poppaws and debate all kinds of esoteric machinists issues.  Much Bourbon whiskey flowed and the conversations sometimes got pretty loud, but the old guys were passionate about their skills and trades.  I even knew an "Oiler" from an old steam locomotive who's job was to go around at every stop and refill all of the oil cups all over the place.  The Chief Logan is still in a park in WVA  exactly as it was parked many decades ago.  So there is a lot to be said for being thorough and consistent with your oiling and lube ritual.  Avoid the compressed air like a bad social disease and use plenty of good quality lube as specified in your manual and you will be very happy with the next 50 or so years that Bridgy gives you in trouble free service...Your kids and Grand kids will appreciate it too, if they follow your interests and hobbies as they get older.  Good luck and enjoy the excellent machine and I hope that you find al of the help you need to keep it going right here among friends.

Bob


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