# Pictures of the PM-833T



## 7milesup (Jan 19, 2018)

Just thought that i would post some pictures of the 833T mill. I purchased this mill in December and it seems like there just is not many pictures available online of this mill.

So, here ya go.

The mill comes with a small toolbox with a shell mill holder and another R8 holder that has a short taper stub.  It happens to fit my Albrecht chuck that I have for it.
Also in the toolbox was a instruction manual/parts diagram.  Almost unreadable, but Matt does have one on line that is significantly better.


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## 7milesup (Jan 19, 2018)

A couple pictures of the underside of the base castings.  I thought that they looked pretty good compared to some of the castings that come out of China (this mill is from Taiwan in case you are unfamiliar with the 833T).

You can also see the tubing welded around the mounting holes to prevent fluid from dripping down on the storage cabinet that will eventually have a home under the mill.


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## 7milesup (Jan 19, 2018)

Overall, I am quite impressed with the quality of this machine.  The table and ways seem to be very, very nice.  They operate smooth as butta too.


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## 7milesup (Jan 19, 2018)

I took a picture of the oiling button just to show that the paint is not all chipped away from where they inserted the button.  Seems like some care was taken when they assembled the machine.

The machine does come standard with a one shot lube system.


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## 7milesup (Jan 19, 2018)

Haha.  I just figured out that you can do thumbnails or "full' size.  Lol.  Sorry guys for the goofy thread here.


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## 7milesup (Jan 19, 2018)

Shot of the motor and the spindle.  The cap on top is cast iron.  Rather surprised as most that I have seen on other "benchtop" mills are plastic.  At 900+ lbs though, to me this is just at the ragged end of benchtop.

One of the things I have not figured out yet is how to hold the spindle when tightening or loosening the drawbar.  I figured there would be a wrench to fit over the splines or something, but no wrenches came with the mill at all.  So, I know I am a noob, but the only way I can change out collets is to put the mill in the lowest gear and then I can tighten or loosen the drawbar.


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## 7milesup (Jan 19, 2018)

The fine down-feed is via sliding collar that engages the fine feed wheel.  Works quite well.  

Shot of the front too.   Not many "frills" on this machine, but it is a nicely made machine with a lot of HP and room for add-ons, like a DRO, etc.


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## 7milesup (Jan 19, 2018)

Also purchased Matt's 5 inch "high precision" machining vise.


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## 7milesup (Jan 19, 2018)

I also made a stand for mine instead of the purchasing the one Matt sells.  I did this largely because of storage space and wanting/needing to optimize my storage options under the mill.
I most likely will pound together a wooden tool chest out of some crappy wood for storage.  I am thinking 10d nails to hold it together.  

The stand it 2x3x 3/16 tube and 2x2x3/16 tubing.  Tig welded together.  I can weld, but I am not a welder.  Does that make sense? LOL


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## 7milesup (Jan 19, 2018)

I used some clone Caster Master casters.   They were $65 for 4 of them off of Amazon.  They seem to work fine, but they are not a "two finger" push to move the mill around like some have said that the Caster Masters are.


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## 7milesup (Jan 19, 2018)

I used 14 gauge steel to make a chip tray.  Made a template for cutting the corners (which still wasn't quite right) and used an angle grinder and cutoff wheel to make those cuts.  I also scored along my bend line because the brake that I was using was rated for up to 16 gauge, and this 14 gauge was going to need some serious gronk to get it to bend.  I decided to make my life a tad easier with the score line.

I also welded some short pieces of tubing around the mounting holes to make it drip proof.  I plan on using a mister vs flood cooling, but I still wanted to make sure that any liquid would not leak out around the mounting bolts (which are 1/2 dia BTW) and ruin my cabinet underneath.


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## 7milesup (Jan 19, 2018)

Mounting plates for the casters and the stand coming along.

Chose Rustoleum hammered dark bronze for the finish to match the stand I made for my 1022 PM lathe.


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## 7milesup (Jan 19, 2018)

The top two angles that the mill actually gets mounted to are 2-1/2 x 1/2" thick.  Even at 200 amps, my TIG welder could have maybe used a little more oomph, but the job got done.


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## 7milesup (Jan 19, 2018)

Oops.  Not sure how these guys sneaked in there. 
Dark one is ours.  The other two are our daughter and future son-in-law's.   The one on the right was a rescue dog.  Man I love that little guy.  I think he was abused, but now all he wants is to be petted and loved.


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## 7milesup (Jan 19, 2018)

Here you can see the tubing around the mounting holes.  This picture was taken while I was getting the mill on the stand.  Had to get creative to get the engine hoist in a position so that I could get the mill centered on the stand.


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## 7milesup (Jan 19, 2018)

Some shots of completed setup.  Actually, have the tool storage to do yet, so it is not 100% done.  The tool cabinet will probably take me a while to build.  I was going to run over to the sawmill today but completely forgot until it was too late.  Grrrrr.

Last picture is the mill's first project which is a mixing block for the coolant and air.  Got the plans from one of our members on here.


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## wrmiller (Jan 19, 2018)

In the coming years, you are going to appreciate that one-shot oiler. 

The quality/fit/finish on that mill appears to be very nice. Should last for years.

I would suggest sending Matt/tech support a email asking if/how other customers solved the spindle lock problem. I managed to find a wrench that fit over the spline from someone here IIRC. If you write down the dimensions I bet someone here has one of those laser/water gizmos that cut plate metal. They could whip you one out in no time. 

And a big thanks for all the pics. Love 'em.


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## mikey (Jan 20, 2018)

Nice mill, Neil!

Wonder if the Luminar spindle wrench will fit your spindle: https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4803


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## rwm (Jan 20, 2018)

That looks like a very nice machine. I have had my eye on one. Great work on the stand. Please keep this thread updated with your review of this tool.
Robert


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## jocat54 (Jan 20, 2018)

7milesup said:


> Shot of the motor and the spindle.  The cap on top is cast iron.  Rather surprised as most that I have seen on other "benchtop" mills are plastic.  At 900+ lbs though, to me this is just at the ragged end of benchtop.
> 
> One of the things I have not figured out yet is how to hold the spindle when tightening or loosening the drawbar.  I figured there would be a wrench to fit over the splines or something, but no wrenches came with the mill at all.  So, I know I am a noob, but the only way I can change out collets is to put the mill in the lowest gear and then I can tighten or loosen the drawbar.



With that nice mill make yourself one


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## 7milesup (Jan 20, 2018)

mikey said:


> Nice mill, Neil!
> 
> Wonder if the Luminar spindle wrench will fit your spindle: https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4803





jocat54 said:


> With that nice mill make yourself one



Thanks for that link Mikey.  

Yeah Jocat, I think that is an excellent idea.  I do find it interesting that no wrenches were included at all, not that I need more chinese wrenches, but a specialty tool for that spindle would have been nice.


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## 81husky (Jan 20, 2018)

Looks great, thank you for posting the pictures.


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## petertha (Jan 20, 2018)

Nice mill. Looks like a modernized improvement of the RF-45 platform. I'm not sure how PM sells/integrates the X-axis power feed unit for this particular mill, but if its the typical Align/clone type that clamps on the table pocket, I think that design leaves something to be desired. This how I remedied mine. After a couple months now I can say its never run better & stays that way.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/rf-45-mill-power-feed-mount-improvement.64766/#post-538501


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## 7milesup (Jan 20, 2018)

petertha said:


> Nice mill. Looks like a modernized improvement of the RF-45 platform. I'm not sure how PM sells/integrates the X-axis power feed unit for this particular mill, but if its the typical Align/clone type that clamps on the table pocket, I think that design leaves something to be desired. This how I remedied mine. After a couple months now I can say its never run better & stays that way.
> 
> https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/rf-45-mill-power-feed-mount-improvement.64766/#post-538501



Very nice upgrade on your mill Petertha.  

I have not decided what I am going to regarding power feed or CNC.  I would really like to make it a CNC mill, but that would require a significant outlay and the finance department might get cranky(er).  I have limited knowledge at this point on the consensus between stepper motors vs. servo.  I know that if I want to maintain manual function of the mill that servo motors have an advantage there, along with their continous feedback to the driver.  I also am considering a DRO and power feeds, but if I go that route, then making it a CNC mill would be pushed way back on the timeline due to $$.


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## rwm (Jan 20, 2018)

I can't believe the 833 does not have an option for a DRO. Are you planning on one?
R


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## 7milesup (Jan 20, 2018)

rwm said:


> I can't believe the 833 does not have an option for a DRO. Are you planning on one?
> R



I actually didn't even notice that there was not an option for a DRO. I would either add a DRO soon, or if I do a CNC conversion there's no sense in adding a DRO.   I'm leaning towards a DRO because I don't see the finance department approving the outlay for a CNC. If I go that route i will pick one up from AliExpress.


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## Firestopper (Jan 20, 2018)

Congratulations on you new machine. Nice work on the stand too.


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## blue_luke (Jan 21, 2018)

Great pics! 
I have actually just ordered a DRO on ebay, with US/CAN exchange rate it will be about 400$CAN, or about 300US
The scales needed are 600mm (X), 450mm (Z) and 300 mm (Y)
I welded the base yesterday and I must say, I am jealous when I look at your welds! Mines looks more like the surface of the moon! The grinder is my friend LOL!  But I am new to welding, I bought my Miller last summer and this base is my second welding project. The welding tab
le was my first!

I am going back to my workplace to continue dismantling the machine and I still have to set my little shop in the basement this week!

My problem is the machine arrived 2 weeks earlier than I expected... 

And yes, everything is silky smooth on this machine, I concur with 7milesup that good attention to details was given on this machine.
Luc


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## rwm (Jan 21, 2018)

I believe this would make and awesome CNC machine! Blue-luke- what specific DRO did you order?
Robert


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## Alan H. (Jan 21, 2018)

Neil, That is a very nice mill.   Thanks for posting all the photos and ideas for a well built stand.  This will help others turn loose of some of their cash! 

The mill looks like the typical Precision Matthews sourced Taiwanese equipment in terms of quality and finish.


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## blue_luke (Jan 21, 2018)

rwm said:


> I believe this would make and awesome CNC machine! Blue-luke- what specific DRO did you order?


An Ebay store in China. There are many and here is a few pointers: 
- If you can spring for a bit more $$, the 'Sino' brand is very good but quite a bit more expensive. About 1 1/2 times more
- Watch more than just the price! Some at first looks more expensive but includes standard shipping, one was only 245$ but charged 145$ for standard shipping!, even more for DHL/FEDEX/UPS
- Albeit taking quite long, I never had problems with standard shipping from China, but do get a tracking number.
- For a 3 axis you will pay about 300$ US +/- 40$
- Some are sold with certain scales lenght only, of course you want to get the proper scales for your machine!
- when specifying the scale lenght, remember that usually it is the travel length that is specified, the module itself is about 6 inches (150mm) longer than the travel
- most of the mounting kits and brackets supplied are so-so and you will end up probably making your own as every machine is different and need adaptations...
- Throw the supplied screws and nuts in the garbage!
- The one I just ordered looks exactly the same as the one (2 axis) I have on my PM-25 which I bought used and installed in 2012. No problems whatsoever so  I figured that buying the same type would at least save me the pain of learning and using different user's interface as I know all the basic functions already.
- These have many many functions, including a calculator mode! I prefer to do all my calculations either in my head or on a pocket calculator for one, and really, on a mill the only functions I found really handy are : bolt circle pattern, sets of hole position, absolute and relative measurements.
That's it!
- I find very convenient to switch from imperial to metric at a press of a button!
- All those user's interface use nice big bright digital displays, but the layout of the whole thing is a bit fuzzy and cluttered. Not to a point where it becomes akward but there is a certain adaptation to make in your brain.

I don't know if it's proper to post this here, but here is the link to the one I bought. I have no affiliation whatsoever with the vendor, in fact it's even the first time I deal with him. So when you buy, from him or another one, before commiting the plastic money, get in touch with them and specify what size of sclaes you need. Up to 1,000mm (1 meter or about 40 inches) the price is the same for any combination of sclae lenghts.
So I wrote to him, specifying my needs, and he replied (verbatim) "OK, just pay" !!! I strive to be polite, but this was awfully straight to the point! 

I am not insulted by this, His English, albeit sketchy and heavily googled up, is surely better than my Chinese!! ha ha


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## 7milesup (Jan 21, 2018)

Blue Luke.... Your link to the DRO you bought did not work, or you forgot.  

The more I think about this, the more I am inclined to just order a DRO for this machine to get me going.  One of our members, Bob Korves, recommended one that he got from AliExpress.  
Here is a link to it.   
DRO system. Siton Technology Store  Seems like a great deal, although I will upgrade the scales to 1um instead of 5um, I think.  Would it be worth it (+$18 extra per scale) to upgrade the scales?


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## petertha (Jan 21, 2018)

A DRO will make your milling experience SO much more enjoyable. And speaking from personal noob experience, more accurate & fewer errors.
I wish the low cost DRO systems available today were around 15 years ago. 

Not sure what it has for Z axis but if its anything like my RF-45, you can make up brackets to suit & integrate an encoder into a 3-axis DRO display box. Or go for the digital vernier style.

Does that mill have a power down feed?


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## 7milesup (Jan 21, 2018)

petertha said:


> Does that mill have a power down feed?



No, it does not have a power down feed.  
You bring up an excellent point though for me.  Where is the typical Z axis mount done?  Is it attached to the quill or the vertical column?  I am assuming that based on Blue Luke's earlier comment in this thread about lengths of scales that it would be installed on the column.


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## petertha (Jan 21, 2018)

DRO doesn't do you much good on the column of these type mills. That's kind of a rough positioning. You want it on the quill, that's the fine feed for actual milling or drilling depth control. Your layout is somewhat similar to mine, that's why I showed my arrangement as example. Your choice scales will dictate where brackets & mounts can & cannot go. I didn't want to drill holes into the oil bath head so this is what I came up with. I'd give Matt a call for ideas. maybe he has done one already, or surely he must be contemplating others outfitting theirs.


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## Kiwi Canuck (Jan 21, 2018)

7milesup said:


> Blue Luke.... Your link to the DRO you bought did not work, or you forgot.
> 
> The more I think about this, the more I am inclined to just order a DRO for this machine to get me going.  One of our members, Bob Korves, recommended one that he got from AliExpress.
> Here is a link to it.
> DRO system. Siton Technology Store  Seems like a great deal, although I will upgrade the scales to 1um instead of 5um, I think.  Would it be worth it (+$18 extra per scale) to upgrade the scales?



Check with Matt at QMT, he probably can give feedback on the scale resolution that would be best for the 833T.

I think 5um would be OK, that's what I have for my mill, IIRC Matt recommended the 1um for the lathe cross slide only.

Nice job on the stand.

David.


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## Bob Korves (Jan 22, 2018)

Higher resolution scales are never really a bad thing, but on the garden variety mills that we hobbyists have, we are not going to see real gains in overall accuracy with the work we turn out because we have .001 mm scales.  Our machines, while they are pretty amazing, are just not that accurate and repeatable.  The real issue is that seeing the higher resolution digital numbers makes us think we can get closer, and spend extra time and effort chasing rainbows.

Cross slides of good lathes and the down feed on surface grinders, if they are actually doing high tolerance work, is where high resolution scales are really useful -- IMO.


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## 7milesup (Jan 22, 2018)

Just got off of the phone with Matt (love his customer service!).  He installs the DRO's on the head of the machine for the Z axis.  If I want one on the quill, he suggested something simple like an igauging type of system.  He also said 5um would be fine, just as Bob ^^ did.  So, just need to figure out exactly how long of scales I need and get it ordered.


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## wrmiller (Jan 22, 2018)

On my PM25 and 9x40 bench mills, I had the Z-axis scale on the head. Works very well if you know how to use it. 

Added a digital scale on the quill for drilling which was the only time the quill was extended beyond a 1/4" or so.


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## Bob Korves (Jan 23, 2018)

7milesup said:


> Just got off of the phone with Matt (love his customer service!).  He installs the DRO's on the head of the machine for the Z axis.  If I want one on the quill, he suggested something simple like an igauging type of system.  He also said 5um would be fine, just as Bob ^^ did.  So, just need to figure out exactly how long of scales I need and get it ordered.


It is possible to install both head and knee scales and have them be additive, where you can move the knee up for part of the feed and run the quill down for the other part, with the readout summing both motions.  There is a black box available to do that, and some systems might have that capability built in.  Here is an example:
https://www.sra-measurement.com/m-dro-linear-encoder-summing-interface.html
Edit: for that unit both scales need to be quadrature...


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## 7milesup (Jan 23, 2018)

That looks like a neat solution Bob.  However, now that you bring that up, why not a 4 axis DRO?  From the same place you bought yours, here is one that is $426, about $200 more than the one you purchased.  4 Axis DRO from AliExpress  If I went with that box (encoder) and had to buy another scale, it would be about $200 more.  Of course, with the encoder box, you get a nice clean number for the Z in one spot with the math already done.

Speaking of DRO's, the longer I look at those on Wilson's site, the more confused I get.  They all seem to be about the same except for the price.  What is the difference between Easson, Sino, Rational, SNS, etc?  

Also, have you guys seen this controller?  I talked to Matt about it the other day.  I am quite intrigued.  Masso CNC  (looks like their site is undergoing maintenance so it is rather messed up at the moment).


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## Bob Korves (Jan 23, 2018)

7milesup said:


> Speaking of DRO's, the longer I look at those on Wilson's site, the more confused I get.


Apparently, some buyers only look at the item price and consider shipping and ignore other fees as just part of doing business.  Others want the best total price, delivered on their doorstep.  So I think what the vendors are doing is selling the same product with pricing packages that appeal to all parts of the spectrum.  If you get confused by all the choices and miss the best deal or make a mental mistake and click on the wrong one, all the better for them.  I learned how to deal with that sort of marketing in about third grade.  Many others did not...


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## 7milesup (Jan 23, 2018)

Bob Korves said:


> Apparently, some buyers only look at the item price and consider shipping and ignore other fees as just part of doing business.



Yeah, I'm not like that.  I was referencing the one store, not multiple stores.  If you notice, Wilson has multiple brand of DROs within his store.  That is what I was questioning.  I realize that the Easson 12C has a nice LCD display that sets it apart, but beyond that, it looks like they all do about the same thing.


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## mksj (Jan 23, 2018)

A 4th axis glass scale on the spindle of a bench top mill is challenging to install and can take up a lot of space. The most common spindle DRO is a the battery operated type, they come in a vertical format, are easily mounted and inexpensive. Also be aware that the head Z Axis is usually locked when milling, otherwise you will get some angular nod forward in particular as the gibs wear. If you are looking for a DRO to just give you coordinates as in X, Y and Z then they all will do that. There is a difference in the layout of the controls, easy of access functions/menus and having an instruction manual that you can actually understand. The graphical displays allows easier use of bolt circle, drilling linear arrays, profiling and other functions. Some people use these functions, others do not. I find them helpful, much more on the mill vs. my lathe.  There can be other annoying issues with the less expensive DROs such as noise filtering of the inputs, often you will see the last digit flickering or with a 1 micron scale the display will give you 5 decimal places which can be annoying. A 1 micron scale on a mill is not needed, nor beneficial. Summation of the head and the spindle, never needed it when I had my bench top mill, did just fine with a 2 axis DRO, the mill came with an installed battery operated spindle DRO. If you go with a 3 axis DRO head, I would put the 3rd scale on the column.


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## Bob Korves (Jan 23, 2018)

7milesup said:


> I was referencing the one store, not multiple stores.


So was I.  
I can sell you a bolt for $3, a nut for 2, a washer for 2, and shipping for 2.
Or, I can sell you a bolt for $3, a nut for 3 a washer for 3, and free shipping.
Or, I can sell you the whole package for $9.
All in different looking ads from the same seller, who is not paying for the ads, just a percentage of sales.
Yes, he is competing against himself, and he wins whichever way you go.

In the case of Wilson's DRO's, the totals do NOT add up to the same price, and it pays YOU to look at all the ads, do the math and pick the best deal.


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## Kiwi Canuck (Jan 23, 2018)

Neil, I went with Easson as it's a known brand and that's what I wanted, and I figured it would also have better resale value if I was going to upgrade later to magnetic scales like the EL400 or EL700..

The other units will work as well but I've seen a few reviews for Sino that were not as favorable as the Easson.

Warranty and returns are a problem when dealing with China, so better to buy the best when buying from Aliexpress/ Siton..

They can DHL stuff for $30-$40 to us and for me to return for exchange/warranty via DHL it's over $200 or about $30-$50 for parcel post without tracking which could take 3 months or more.

I took a gamble and bought from Aliexpress, but would buy from QMT if I order another set just because of the challenges I had with ordering a GS11 and trying to exchange it for a GS31 scale.

After 6 months of back and forward messages with Wilson he finally allowed me to send it back but took 2 more messages to get his address to send it to and still awaiting for an invoice to pay the $30 shipping up charge for the exchange on the GS31 scale.

In the mean while Matt from QMT stepped up and will send me a GS30 scale which will work for my application for no charge, so I'll just hold onto the GS11 scale until I can find a home for it.

That was so unexpected and just shows why he's earned the respect and loyalty he has on this site.


David.


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## 7milesup (Jan 23, 2018)

Kiwi Canuck said:


> Neil, I went with Easson as it's a known brand and that's what I wanted, and I figured it would also have better resale value if I was going to upgrade later to magnetic scales like the EL400 or EL700..
> 
> The other units will work as well but I've seen a few reviews for Sino that were not as favorable as the Easson.
> 
> ...



David:
Thank you for the insight.  Just what I was looking for.


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## Silverbullet (Jan 23, 2018)

I think your gonna love the way you built the stand. It'll be super stable. I don't think those flimsy sheet metal stands are worth even having , make them cast or heavy steel. Nice machine , I see they only used one bolt on the oiler manifold , I'd drill and tap the other one if it were mine. No I wasn't nit picking things like that jump out at me. I like the stand very much. Great job building it.
The wainscoting on the walls is a super idea too.


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## blue_luke (Jan 29, 2018)

Hello all, a bit of time since my last post... Here goes...
- The place where I ordered my DRO: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/162359087225  And Like I said, this is the first time I deal with him.
- just got a phone from DHL and it seems that the package is at the local depot! That was fast! And I've paid for standard delivery! Just about a week!
- 5um resolution on the glass scales is perfectly adequate in my opinion. Like a few have said here, it's nice to see those 2 last digits on the display moves when you breathe or if the dog wag his tail, but honestly, if you can get consistently .0005 precision on those machines, you are a master machinist possessed by 'the force' ! Much more experienced than me for sure!
- Yes i will put the Z axis scale on the column/head... not on the quill. My reasoning is that the 'Z' crank is so smooth on the PM833t, and of course because of the weight of the head, backlash is about nil, I have decided  not to use the quill lever for milling operation. Of course the quill is very handy for drilling operation
- It is a realy good idea to buy a DRO from Matt if you live in the states, his price are very fair and the quality is there. The reason why I did not buy from him is that as a Canadian, I get hit quite hard with taxes and accises on that sort of things! Not the machines though.
- A little bit of advice to my fellow Canadians, Machines are almost always duty free, you pay federal taxes and sometimes provincial or HST depending where you live. The same goes with tooling such as vises, drill chucks arbors and the likes. But anything electronic such as DROs, variable speed drive, PLCs and that sort of thing will be taxed, and something shockingly heavily!! In these cases, you are better off with a Canadian reseller, or import directly from China, because you will not pay the duty twice or so...

Cheers, Luc


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## 7milesup (Feb 3, 2018)

One of the  first things I decided to do to my mill was add a light to the spindle so I can see what im doing.  I find that the older I get the more light I need. 

I ordered a 90mm OD angel eye LED from Superbrightleds. Super bright LEDs cool white angel eye. I probably could have found something cheaper on eBay but this had the LED driver attached to the wires. 

I had a 12v wall wart switching power supply here already and 5.5 mm X 2.1 mm 12 volt plug and a switch. All I needed was an enclosure for all the pieces. Since I have a 3D printer I drew the design up in Fusion 360 and printed out a switch enclosure and cover for it. That was attached to the mill with 3M VHB tape. I did make provisions for bolt mounting but just decided to use a tape for now.
The angel eye and lens were attached to the spindle (non-rotating part of course) with a genrerous amount of E6000 adhesive.  The wire  is protected with a wire loom and heat shrink tubing on both ends.


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## wrmiller (Feb 3, 2018)

That was one of the first mods I did to my mill. Oh, and FYI, the 'needing more light' thingie doesn't get any better the older you get.


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## MarkM (May 31, 2018)

7milesup thanks for taking the time for all the pictures and your thoughts.  The most detail I have seen for this machine.   I keep coming back to it.  Do I get the 833t and be done with it or get a smaller rf and hold out for a knee mill down the rd. I wish our dollar wasn t so bad!  May be the one .  Again thanks for your pics!


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## Silverbullet (May 31, 2018)

I like it , about what I planned to do using one of the magnifying lamps they sell . You know the China cheapism.


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## navadel (May 14, 2021)

Good day, I have ordered a 833tv with an anticipated ship date of mid June. I will be building my own stand. I just got off the phone with PM and they could not answer my question and suggested I check with you folks. I am after the measurement from the bottom of the machine (where it sits on the stand) to the top of the table. Thanks


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## 7milesup (May 14, 2021)

It is 10-1/8" from the base of the mill to the top of the X-Y table.


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## navadel (May 14, 2021)

7milesup said:


> It is 10-1/8" from the base of the mill to the top of the X-Y table.


Thank you very much, that's exactly what I needed. According to PM's site Height of Table Working Surface, mounted on optional stand* 39-1/2″*. The stand states it is 35"tall. With your measurements that would put the working surface at 45-1/8".  When I talked to PM this afternoon they agreed that the measurements did not make sense but could not offer confirmation.


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## 7milesup (May 15, 2021)

Here is a couple more pictures.  
My stand is about 36.5" from floor to chip tray. From floor to top of table is 46.75"  I am 6ft tall. It is about right. I would not go any taller personally.


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## navadel (May 16, 2021)

7milesup said:


> Here is a couple more pictures.
> My stand is about 36.5" from floor to chip tray. From floor to top of table is 46.75"  I am 6ft tall. It is about right. I would not go any taller personally.





7milesup said:


> Here is a couple more pictures.
> My stand is about 36.5" from floor to chip tray. From floor to top of table is 46.75"  I am 6ft tall. It is about right. I would not go any taller personally.


7milesup. Thank you for the picts, I am dong everything I can in advance to be ready for delivery. Lots of homework and reading on this machine.  This site has been a tremendous help!!!!


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## navadel (May 23, 2021)

I have another question. How much room is required from the back of the machine to the wall?  In some photos it looks as if the back is flat top to bottom. In the online manual it appears there is a box attached to the back of the mill?


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## 7milesup (May 23, 2021)

Mine does not have a box.  It could go tight up against the wall.

EDIT:  If you are looking at the owners manual and see the box on there, you will also notice that that was only on machines shipped before 2017.


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## navadel (May 23, 2021)

Once again thanks you sir!!


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## navadel (Jul 19, 2021)

At last my 833 will be delivered tomorrow!! Question regarding the included 10x100mm mounting hardware. Is the headwear stainless? Also what is the depth of the bottom mounting plate, from where the bolt rest's to the to of the chip tray?
Thanks guys..


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## zjtr10 (Jul 19, 2021)

Congratulations!
speaking from experience be sure you carefully inspect all SIX sides before signing the delivery paperwork.

I was shorter than the box my 1054 came in and I checked the 4 sides no problems. 
signed the paperwork and the driver left.

Moved it Inside and started opening the crate. When I had 1 side removed I could see something heavy had been placed on top of my crate crushing the roof in. No damage was done but it P.O.’d me that the driver was in the trailer when the forklift lowered the crate to ground level and could clearly see the roof damage but didn’t say anything.


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## navadel (Jul 19, 2021)

zjtr10 said:


> Congratulations!
> speaking from experience be sure you carefully inspect all SIX sides before signing the delivery paperwork.
> 
> I was shorter than the box my 1054 came in and I checked the 4 sides no problems.
> ...


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## navadel (Jul 19, 2021)

Great advice, I will be sure to look it over carefully.


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