# Mill spindle comes to speed, click, slows down, click, repeat



## dumpsternaut (Nov 14, 2020)

Hello,


I have a motor problem on my mill that I'm hoping is common or straightforward.

I guess I'll do a summary first, then proper intro, specs, and explanation:


    –  The    spindle gets up to maybe about full speed, then <click> slows    down almost like no power, then <click> process starts over.


    –  It's    the type with both a startup and a running capacitor. I don't have    much experience in this area. I'm hoping the <click> is not a  thermal breaker (like it sounds), and instead that maybe it's an internal  relay switching from Startup to Run mode and the capacitor(s) simply need replacing...? Or maybe it is a thermal switch but the heat is  still because of bad caps?

    –  I'll    say this: When it speeds up and <click> and you turn it off...    it still goes <click> anyway, one more time, like a cooled off  thermal strip resetting    even powered off.

The rest of the facts:


I recently acquired one of those somewhat white-label benchtop milling machines (mill drill) called a ZX7025, offered by multiple companies such as Luzhong (mine's used and a little modified, so who knows)  :
type:



pics from mine, actual unit:









It has a 1 hp motor currently wired for 110v. It is quite simple with no brain or complicated wiring harness, seemingly just a power cord, a switch, and a motor with the two capacitors. No electrically adjustable spindle speed, just a static max speed and manual belt pulley placement options.


An honest friend claims it was working fine at first on his 110v wall socket but after sitting it does as described. It does, indeed, have a 110v plug on it.
Here's a better look at the goes-inta:



I really appreciate any insight on the matter. I'd like not to have to buy and install a new motor.

I'll answer any questions I can, will watch for replies, and I look forward to posting a bit about the interesting new woodwind instrument craftsmanship work I plan with the machine, sharing a little of my own ingenuity with things I've come up with.

Thanks much,

Jeff
P.S.  SAFETY  --
While my technical knowledge in this area is fuzzy --
_my *safety* procedures are not fuzzy
I have high voltage vintage radio transmitter experience, so I promise to be aptly careful, discharging caps and I have insulated instruments including a grounded probe with insulated shaft and handle. Thanks again._


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## markba633csi (Nov 14, 2020)

I see that the motor data plate says 220 volt and no mention of 110, although most motors of this type can be wired for either voltage.
So that could be it, or maybe there is an actual problem with the centrifugal switch in the motor, or a capacitor problem.
Really need to verify if it's wired for the correct voltage first. No other wiring data with the machine?
A motor of that size should really be run on 220 anyhow. (240 actually these days) The current draw on 110 would probably trip most common 15 amp breakers, assuming it could be wired for 110;  the problem you describe sounds suspiciously like it's running on half voltage.
-Mark


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## dumpsternaut (Nov 15, 2020)

Thanks for your reply!

You said a motor of this size should really be run on 220v. I suppose it's not out of the question to run it on 220v, as it's not terribly far from it.

I can try to find more wiring data on a ZX7025 but I wouldn't be 100% sure that it was the same anymore. I was wondering if it would throw the breaker but it didn 't here and he said it wasn't at his house (who knows if it's wired correctly though)... threw a mini-breaker on a cheap powerbar at his house, LOL.

Yeah... I did notice the plate didn't mention 110v but I didn't know if that labeling was common for other motors that were okay to re-wire for 110v..?
Now that you mention it, my 3/4 HP planer motor says either or!

While it would have been great to hear,
"It looks wired correctly but is symptomatic of a bad running capacitor",
...there seems no getting around it -- I need to learn more about this motor and its correct wiring options and what they are.

You did mention "the centrifugal switch" -- so is that how a typical 2-capacitor motor decides to switch from "startup" mode to "run mode" -- a certain speed trips a centrifugal switch? That makes me sort of happy because it explains the second click happening even if powered off (when the spindle slows back down it clicks again, with or without power). Doesn't mean it's some kind of overheated thermal breaker. I like that.

He claims it was wired for 110v and was running fine for some time and just started this (even showed me parts me milled), and that is why I wondered if it was the running cap...
like maybe --
"Everything is okay until it gets to speed and clicks but then it slows back down until it re-enters startup mode because the running capacitor is bunk...?"

He wanted to call off the sale and fix it first and I was the one who pressed on to pay and take it, because I can't wait weeks for him to get around to it, or lose it to someone else with nothing like it for reasonable sale ever around here.

I'll learn what I can - thanks for your thoughts!


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## dumpsternaut (Nov 15, 2020)

hmmm... I found ads for Y90S-6 motors and they say
Three Phase
380V or Any Voltage Between 220-760V
Nothing about 110v so I'm wondering if it's not a good candidate for the 110v single phase re-wiring trick  -- provided they even did so correctly  --  because it seems if they did, and it was drawing enough current to run right, esp. after seeing these specs, it seems it would pop the 15amp breaker as you stated)?

It doesn't strike me as coming to speed fast enough, either. Seems sluggish compared to mills at work.


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## hman (Nov 15, 2020)

The behavior of your motor makes me think that the repeated clicking you hear is the centrifugal switch kicking in (when it slows down) and out (when it's up to speed).  I'd guess that the start winding and capacitor are OK, but there's something fishy about the run winding.  Might possibly be that it wants to be fed 220 instead of 110.  I've had 220 motors where the start winding only gets 110 (because it's connected to the "center tap" of two run windings wired to 220 in series).  If the run winding is expecting 220 and only gets 110, it might have just enough oomph to help the start winding get the motor going, but can't sustain it when the centrifugal switch turns off the start winding, and it's left on its own.

About the only thing i can suggest is for you is to ohm out all the windings, looking for opens.  I'm not by any means a motor expert, so you'll have to wait until one of them posts and gives you a complete answer.  But by then you'll have more information to offer.


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## Z2V (Nov 15, 2020)

dumpsternaut said:


> He claims it was wired for 110v and was running fine for some time and just started this (even showed me parts me milled), and that is why I wondered if it was the running cap...
> like maybe --
> "Everything is okay until it gets to speed and clicks but then it slows back down until it re-enters startup mode because the running capacitor is bunk...?"



This was my thought when I read your first post. Hopefully you have a multimeter, check the caps.


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## addertooth (Nov 15, 2020)

... or it could be a bad "RUN" capacitor.   i.e. your start capacitor starts it spinning (it is good), but once it switches to the FAILED run capacitor, the motor stops applying power.  Then when the RPMs drop below a certain RPM figure, the START capacitor is engaged again... causing the motor to spin back up (to the threshold where the RUN capacitor kicks in).

It could also be bad contacts on the centrifugal switch which connects the RUN capacitor... but testing the capacitor would be the easiest first step.


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## markba633csi (Nov 15, 2020)

It's not reaching a high enough speed to stay running.  It looks like a single voltage motor to me. Also, check the voltage ratings on the two capacitors- If they are both rated at 250 volts or more then it's likely a 240 volt-only motor
I agree with John in post #5 as far as "oomph"
-M


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## dumpsternaut (Nov 15, 2020)

Thank you all for your time and thoughts.
I'm a heck of a lot better off than I was all alone, and this gives me more well-lit paths to pursue.

Ironic side note:
Even though the weight and cumbersomeness of this unit was 150% as much as my wife and I had any business transporting (where there's a will there's a way)...
... the way I hurt my back the same day was actually helping a young firefighter move a big fiberglass motorhome moulding several feet.
So I'm hobbling pretty badly accepting prayers to be in good enough shape to help out my own folks (pushing 90) up the road stay in their home.

Gives me some time to brush up on electrical stuff, though.

In earnest:
Thanks again!


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## Just for fun (Nov 15, 2020)

Maybe look at your planer and see how it is wired.  Maybe the guy that had it rewired his 110v outlet for 220v  I have seen some crazy stuff over the years.


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## dumpsternaut (Nov 15, 2020)

thanks J - I'll mention the planer at bottom...


*update *on the mill*:*


bad start cap for one thing...
...but was it ever good being run on 110v even when it “worked”?

So:
The motor capacitors are:

CD60, 220/265 V.A.C., 150 MFD
(presumably the START cap)
*THIS one tests BAD (meter says 0.F)

- - - -

CBB60 SH, 450 V.A.C., 25 MFD
(presumably the RUN cap)
This tests 23.88 MFD on the outside of within +/- 5% tolerance

* So it's staring to look like the theory of it not having enough oompf and getting to speed?

Question: If it's not getting to speed (and it does seem sluggish starting) then I presume the <click> is not the centrifugal switch successfully tripping but rather, what (?) a thermal breaker (like it sounds) tripping because startup is straining and/or taking too long and causing too much heat?

I still wonder if I should try 220v...but 220v single phase (even though ads for this motor say it's a three phase motor?
It seems like the point of this present arrangement is single phase, right?

I do have single phase available more readily than three at this location (allow electrician to tap in near the water heater instead of near the drier) and I'd have to get help with wiring. I say “single phase” when I really perceive “220v single phase”as two phase, but anyway...

I'm a hack in this area and appreciate the help immensely!

P.S. -- reply to user: Just for Fun in Washington --  thanks for the reply -- Well, the only reason I mentioned the planer was as a reference (as in "If a motor is made to work on either, will it say so?"). I noted the A-OK planer's manufacturer's plate said 220v or 110v, whereas the problem mill's plate says just 220v making me wonder if it wasn't meant for 110v no matter how you wire it. Like maybe it requires inordinate current for a typical 15 amp circuit or something. Maybe you meant look at it to see if the mill is wired the same? That might have helped me learn but I do think the planer is a 1-cap deal. I DO wonder if maybe the guy that had the mill might have done was you say and used a 110v plug and outlet to run 220! I wouldn't bet my life against it! Haha...


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## markba633csi (Nov 15, 2020)

Certainly you need a new start cap, but it's still not certain what voltage it's wired for.  Personally, I would study the wires coming out of the motor and try to identify the two run windings and if they are connected in series or parallel.  Series means 220, parallel 110.  If it looks like only one run winding then the motor is a 220 volt only motor for sure.
It looks like there are six wires coming out so that seems to indicate 2 run windings and one start winding.  Need a close-up view though.


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## dumpsternaut (Nov 15, 2020)

Can't thank you enough...
(ordered new caps)
Just ignore this if it seems like a mess but I thought it might help...

I'm truly dyslexic so I'm still working on a schematic for this as we speak, but it appears to me as if:

There are only 3 wire *colors* associated with the motor,
but two groups of the same three colors:

-- two holes in the motor next to each other
-- each hole with its own group of White, Yellow, and Red
(then there are thinner wires below that come in from the power switch and power source in blue, red, and striped yellow/green grounded to chassis)

Here I have removed the capacitors...
*NOTE:* the only wire that looks deceiving is the *White motor wire on the Right side goes into the Bottom Right Post* (not the Middle Right Post with the Red one like it looks, sorry)
but I do label and describe further down




here I label with numbers so I can explain where the wires go since I'm struggling with a real schematic quite yet:




The letters are electrically meaningless (shown for position only) because 3a and 3b are linked to each other with a brass band, just as 4a and 4b
- - - - -
*  150 uf capacitor goes to posts 1 and 2

*  25 uf capacitor goes to posts 1 and 3a
- - - - -
I'm going to call the first group of motor wires X
Red X, Yellow X, White X

and the second group of motor wires Z
Red Z, Yellow Z, White Z
- - - - -

White X wire ---> post 1
Yellow X wire ---> post 3a
Red X wire ---> post 4a
- - - - -

White Z wire ---> post 4b (NOT 3b like it looks, sorry)
Yellow Z wire ---> post 2
Red Z wire ---> post 3b
- - - - -

Here's a pic with the caps in place



Actually it's easier to see wire White Z going to post 4b in this picture

Thanks again and I know the above is bulky and inefficient representation... thanks for bearing with me.


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## Jim F (Nov 15, 2020)

dumpsternaut said:


> Can't thank you enough...
> (ordered new caps)
> Just ignore this if it seems like a mess but I thought it might help...
> 
> ...


This is not the first time wiring issues have been been brought up. Each one seems to be different, also.....


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## Jim F (Nov 16, 2020)

*@markba633csi *will be able to walk you through getting it running, he is awesome with figuring that stuff out.


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## dumpsternaut (Nov 16, 2020)

Sigh...
Well, another update (please note I have depicted wiring more clearly above it that helps Markba633csi or anyone mire, thanks)

It turns out the 150uF capacitor I thought tested bad is probably fine anyway.
I got the new one (with also a new 25 uF on the way) and it also made my meter say "0.F"  
I thought that meant that it was bad since it reads the 25uF capacitor just fine (and is supposed to auto range).
But I dredged another tester out tha, now, indicates all the caps are OK.

So I tried it anyway and pretty much the same result.
Probably will be the same when the 25uF cap arrives, too.
I fancy it stayed running longer and had reached top speed briefly but <click> slows down almost to a stop <click> starts again...

I feel like I should just jam 220v into it and see what happens.
But I should learn more about the circuit and know what I'm doing better.
If I was more of an electrical buff I could have already used what HMAN and Markba said about the windings etc., as a point of departure, and determined if it's improperly being fed 110v and just needs 220v.

I'm going to draw the wiring on paper like a cave man schematic for myself to understand it better.

I might change the belt position to lower speed for now. It's on top spindle speed. Wonder what will happen on a lower spindle speed. It should be easier for the motor to hit its same, full motor arbor speed faster with less difficulty or load...? Might help indicate what's going on, by what happens with the belt and pulleys set for low spindle speed.


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## hman (Nov 16, 2020)

Might also be worthwhile to test the motor with no load at all (ie, belts removed).


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## dumpsternaut (Nov 16, 2020)

So from everything said *I'm installing 220v in the garage tonight*.
I found I already had actual 220v connectors and big yellow cable and everything from a late buddy.

NOTE: I WILL NOT hold anyone responsible (if the motor fries) for giving me their best guess of if I should change the wiring before trying 220v.
The motor is starting to look expendable since it has no diagrams available. It would save time and tight money if saved.

Whether we can salvage this motor or I must consider the $170 replacement I have my eye on, I'll run 220v either way.
This one below appears to have the right 7/8 shaft (I THINK the pulleys are 7/8" with 3/16" key slot, but measuring assembled is hard... those are the specs unless they're metric and very close)... could the stock motor shaft be metric? I'll disassemble and measure before paying for a motor...








						2 HP Compressor Duty Motor
					

Amazing deals on this 2Hp Compressor Duty Motor at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




					www.harborfreight.com
				



(I like that I could pick this up same day... I'm behind on my work at home manufacturing plan I'm financially dependent upon, hehe, so I can't wait around.

5:00AM -- "time to machine the wooden flutes" (instead of "make the donuts").

*** I just need to figure out if I need to change the wiring on this old motor before trying powering it up with 220v.

*** While it sounds to experts here maybe it was never converted to 110v on one hand, on the other hand my friend showed me parts he machined with 110v before this problem became intermittent then permanent.
Could he be dishonest despite encouraging me to let him fix it before buying? (I couldn't wait or risk losing it)
Or could a 220v-only setup, wired that way and everything, have actually gotten up to speed and operated (somewhat) for a while, when in better shape, with half the voltage it was supposed to get (until it got abused overheating and now suffers too much to do so)?

*** Weird thing is -- it seriously looks like it came with this 110v plug on it from the factory, despite the 220v spec plate. There's no retrofit evident and the power cable goes into the machine deeper into the cast iron machine (to the switch) than I'd have thought these guys would go to the trouble of disassembling just to swap a plug.

I'm off to try crawling thru the attic to run 220v with a freshly hurt back...

As always THANK you


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## dewbane (Nov 17, 2020)

I don't have any useful insights, though I am watching this with some interest. Since I can't help you, I thought I'd entertain you.

When I ran the new circuit for my shop, I told the electrical supply I wanted the biggest, baddest breaker I could run on 110. Now that I think about it, what the heck did I actually end up with? (Looks at panel.) It's a 30A single pole breaker that's fat enough to take up two slots. How does that work? Now that I'm thinking about it, I'm not even sure I installed it correctly the second time, but whatever, it's been working for 15 years at this point, and it trips when I do dumb things like try to take off 0.250" in one pass with my lathe. Did I mention the only electrician I've used since I bought this place is kind of a moron?

Anyway, the first time I installed this thing, I didn't appreciate how double pole breakers work. I just installed this fat single pole breaker somewhere convenient, and I spanned both bus bars. I fired up my shop lights to try out my brand new shiny new circuit (my shop was powered with extension cords previously), and lo, DIXITQUE DEUS FIAT LUX, ET FACTA EST LUX!! (Yeah, I'm kind of a dork. Maybe this is why I never get second dates.)

There was also smoke. And a weird humming noise. And more smoke. Lots and lots of acrid, nasty smoke. What the...? So I got out my handy dandy meter, and poked the prongs into a conveniently located outlet. Just before the meter exploded with an earth-shattering kaboom, I saw the number 220 on the screen.

Yeah. I wired the shop with two hots and no neutral. I blew the ballasts out of a dozen shop lights. I'm lucky I didn't electrocute myself, and burn the whole Commonwealth of Virginia to cinders.

So your whole motor clicking and dying thing, hey, that's nothing in the scheme of things. If I were you, I'd roll the dice and plug that sucker up to the 220V without touching the wiring. It will probably work. But we have established that I am a moron, and you probably shouldn't trust my electrical advice!


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## dumpsternaut (Nov 17, 2020)

dewbane said:


> ...DIXITQUE DEUS FIAT LUX, ET FACTA EST LUX!!


Hehe...
you let there be light
but it was _not_ good

Well... I have beautifully (for me) run 220v, off of my dedicated hot water heater circuit, thru the attic, having created a junction before the heater on/off switch, so I can run the mill with the heater temporarily switched off, since I think maybe it draws about 20 amps out of the available 30 all by itself.

Whatever happens, thanks to everyone for all their time.
Yeah I think it's just time to give it a try. ...but I'm going to shower the fiberglass insulation off my man-boobs first and say a prayer for Deus ex Machina to ...salvum me machina?

I am going to clean her up and name her, but wanted to get her working first


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## Just for fun (Nov 17, 2020)

I'm not sure that's a good idea!   After what you said about your friend using it on 110 volts, I'm guessing something else is wrong.

Tim


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## dewbane (Nov 17, 2020)

dumpsternaut said:


> Hehe...
> you let there be light
> but it was _not_ good


Heh heh heh.


> Well... I have beautifully (for me) run 220v, off of my dedicated hot water heater circuit, thru the attic, having created a junction before the heater on/off switch, so I can run the mill with the heater temporarily switched off....


That's why I think I will run 220V off my dryer instead. I definitely have control of when the dryer is running. I can just not run it when I have something plugged into the 220V outlet I plan to add. I have several machines that could benefit from the juice, but I will probably feed it to my CULUS MAXIMUS (big ass) American-made Industrial Air compressor. Which I run exclusively to power a blow gun. Because you need a 220V 30 gallon 1 hp industrial compressor to run a blow gun.



> Yeah I think it's just time to give it a try. ...but I'm going to shower the fiberglass insulation off my man-boobs first and say a prayer for Deus ex Machina to ...salvum me machina?


The other guy is probably right about waiting. The other other guy supposedly had the thing running on 110, and if you plug it into 220, you might let the smoke out. I advised you to do just that, but I'm an idiot!

Hey, either way, BONA FORTUNA!


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## dumpsternaut (Nov 17, 2020)

Just for fun said:


> I'm not sure that's a good idea!   After what you said about your friend using it on 110 volts, I'm guessing something else is wrong.
> 
> Tim


Thanks Tim... you could be right but...
Well, I'm looking at it this way:
1) I'm already perilously behind on my at-home manufacturing project and I've been farting around for days now. 
2) There are no diagrams available for this motor and I'm not a guru enough to ohm out the windings and know what's going on
3) The capacitors are ok
4) If there's an internal problem in the motor I likely just need to go get that new motor my eye is on and maybe fix this one later for something
5) It was, indeed, starting up way sluggishly compared to machines at work or even my drill press, it's labeled 220v (no mention of 110), and two of the guys here were saying it seems like half voltage symptoms.

Ima go hit ON...

OMGoodness it's WORKING...
It did not stop! It just started nicely and kept running quietly!
O.O
I wish I could gauge the rpms... honestly it seems like a milling machine going its fastest (in top belt/pully speed) that doesn't go as fast as a Bridgeport at work all out. 

OMWord I think it's simply working.

***** Could it have been running for a while on 110v (unhappily and sluggishly) with a couple guys who didn't know any better, and then it just finally got a little too cooked to do so, but will still run on full power?
I suppose there's also the option of a career fireman not being honest with me... he's a little odd but... this part is confusing.

By God (praise God) it just seems like it's running beautifully to me.
Not like something straining on double voltage in my opinion.
I'll normally run it in a slower mode...

Oh wow...
again *THANK YOU everyone* for your insights, thoughts, and attention.


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## dumpsternaut (Nov 17, 2020)

dewbane said:


> The other guy is probably right about waiting. The other other guy supposedly had the thing running on 110, and if you plug it into 220, you might let the smoke out. I advised you to do just that, but I'm an idiot!



Thanks... you guys are right that is prudent _(_*lol*, let the smoke out), but this motor was quickly whizzing me off and becoming expendable with no data on it.

I'm hoping it isn't seeming okay but about to burn up, but honestly it seems normal to me now.
It was starting up wayyy slow on 110v.
But I'm wondering if it was barely getting up to speed and "working" for novice Mike a few times on 110v and he made some planed aluminum bits-- is that possible on 110v even truly meant for 220? Or should it not have run under any circumstances?
He said it did the start/stop with him a couple times but then worked after that, and so he wrongly thought it was his power bar. The guy before him, no I don't trust. Mike didn't use it a lot but claims it ran indefinitely for a while on 110v...?

BOY it seems like it's working perfectly right now on 220v!


If I let the smoke out I'll go buy the new motor with the nice wiring diagram! Hee...
Wheeeee!


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## dewbane (Nov 17, 2020)

dumpsternaut said:


> BOY it seems like it's working perfectly right now on 220v!


That's right. Safety protocols? You don't need no steeking safety protocols if you're prepared to buy a real motor that actually has a verifiable pedigree. Like the great Earnest P. Whorl once said, parts is parts, and motors is motors.


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## dumpsternaut (Nov 17, 2020)

I heard that debane. And according to Earnest he's immensely over-educated, which offsets his being over-dressed.

Whee.. hehe...
She does kinda seem like she's truckin'... but I'm sure I'd be able to see if she was going like over 5 or 6 thousand RPM (is that what would happen on double AC voltage, double speed like AC?)

It truly seems like a similar speed as my drill press (and now starts up with similar zeal).

Now, my drill press says top speed is 3500, whereas the generic plate on the mill states top speed 2600...

...but part of the whole info. problem has been this is a generic, “white label” mill that India, China, US, and God knows who else have been putting all kinds of different motors on (never the same one twice).

But, so, if the plate was referring to top speed is 2600 RPM with an 1100 RMP motor (like it mentions), but this was actually a 1800 RPM motor (common for 1HP, including my hypothetical replacement) then would that be about right, doing maybe 3500 instead of 2600.

I'm not going to be running a lot. Just a precision operation, maybe a half hour a week run time tops.

*I don't want to burn up my spindle*, so I'll slow it down until I get my seasoned machinist ex-boss over here to help judge the RPM's...

But I_ think_ it's not as fast as the Bridgeport I've seen go 4500. I'll bet she's doing 3500 (spindle speed, and of course surface speed increases with diameter). And the motor looks like one doing 1800 if I had to guess. Not over 3000 or something.


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## Just for fun (Nov 17, 2020)

Congratulations! 

I got thinking about it,  and I believe that if the motor was wired for 110v and you applied 220v you would just blow a circuit breaker.  

As far as the mill working on 110v and having enough power to mill anything is a mystery.

Tim


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## macardoso (Nov 17, 2020)

You can't safely overvoltage an AC motor in hopes of gaining additional speed (If I understood your intentions correctly). The frequency is what determines the rotation speed, along with the way the motor is wound.

If variable speed is needed, the motor can be replaced by an inverter duty 3 phase motor and a VFD. VFD's are able to be found with single phase 240V input up to 3-5HP. The VFD changes the *frequency* of the output thus giving you speed control.


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## markba633csi (Nov 17, 2020)

Yay, good deal.  Glad you got it.   A good rule is " don't believe anything you hear, and only half of what you see"
Be safe
-Mark


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## RJSakowski (Nov 17, 2020)

Chinese motor identification is an enigma.  A "Y" motor should be a three phase motor but a three phase motor doesn't have start and run capacitors.  The correct designation should be "YCL" for a motor with start and run capacitors.  the 90 apparently corresponds to power class.  Not sure about the "S".  The "6" refers to the number of poles and 6 poles would be correct for a 1140 rpm motor.


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## hman (Nov 17, 2020)

@dumpsternaut - you can get a not-too-expensive ($40) tachometer at Harbor Freight.  I have a previous model from them, and it's worked well for me.








						Digital Photo Sensor Tachometer
					

Amazing deals on this Digital Photo Sensor Tachometer at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




					www.harborfreight.com


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## dumpsternaut (Nov 19, 2020)

Thanks to all who helped, I learned a lot!
Even coming back to check and seeing the model letter designation and about the $40 tachometer. I thought if I drew a line on the spindle something should be able to tell me.

I can't wait to post some cool-looking wooden flutes made 100% on the home machines!



macardoso said:


> You can't safely overvoltage an AC motor in hopes of gaining additional speed (If I understood your intentions correctly). The frequency is what determines the rotation speed, along with the way the motor is wound.
> 
> If variable speed is needed, the motor can be replaced by an inverter duty 3 phase motor and a VFD. VFD's are able to be found with single phase 240V input up to 3-5HP. The VFD changes the *frequency* of the output thus giving you speed control.



Thanks Macardoso -- this is informative! In this particular case this was a message in a rather wordt thread (my bad) about diagnosing a sluggish machine supposedly wired for 110v. It started working fine on 220v and I was just hoping I had not hooked 220v to a motor (or circuit wired for for) 110v, watching it run faster than intended and about to burn up my spindle or something. Luckily it appears it was always meant for 220v and is now happy!


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