# Another buggy



## AGCB97 (Mar 11, 2017)

I've started building another large project. This will be a small tractor/large ATV.

4 years ago I built a ATV side by side from scratch. It used a 1980 Renault Lecar engine and trany that I bought new. When it had gone through the family and no one else wanted to drive it, after sitting a few years, I stripped out as much usable stuff as I thought I might someday need before giving the scrap to a teen to haul to the iron yard and make a little money. My plan always was to build some sort of toy with the engine and whatever. Didn't think it would take 30 years to get started!
From this                                                                                  To this    in 12 weeks




The fact is, I like to build things and some of them are large. In 1995 I built my 1st airplane, A Kolb Firestar 2. This was a construction kit and took about one year to complete. I flew that for over 450 hours.

The next winter after completing it I was bored and decided to build another airplane. I put a lot of time into researching the various possibilities. I wanted a plane that I could keep at home and take off from my own runway. This would save much in hanger fees and also make flying on the spur of the moment possible like I had done with my ultralight. I decided to buy plans for an all metal Zenith 601HD and build it from scratch. That was a fun project and I learned much that I never would have w/o that project. That took me nearly 12 years to complete. I first flew it in 2007. It had a 100 HP continental aircraft engine and would cruise about 100 MPH. It was slightly too fast for landing at my home strip (50' between road and tall trees and 1100' long). I would not fly anyone out of there with me and had to meet my passengers at the local airport. I only put about 75 hours on it before selling.




Then my wife wanted to finish learning to fly and I thought I could get her a little more experience with a small plane like my 1st ultralight. Plus I missed the great view. Together we built a Kolb Mark 3 from used and new parts which were picked up at various places around the country or shipped from further places. That one was finished in 2009 and I only flew it about 12 hours before gradually loosing interest in flying. I sold it also.



So although I've been building on this new buggy for about 10 months, I've been taking some pictures and hope to start a project thread here if anyone is interested in following my progress.

I enjoy looking at others projects and get lots of ideas that way.

It's great to read on this forum and others of kindred spirits building anything small or large.

Thanks for your time

Aaron


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## Terrywerm (Mar 11, 2017)

Wow, when you start a project, you start a PROJECT!


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## brino (Mar 11, 2017)

AGCB97 said:


> I've been taking some pictures and hope to start a project thread here if anyone is interested in following my progress.



Yes please, Aaron!
-brino


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## AGCB97 (Mar 12, 2017)

For many years I've wanted to learn a few more things that I've never done before. These include making among others

a center articulated vehicle (CAV)

something hydraulic using pumps, motors and cylinders

building tracks
The buggy that is being built now was to accomplish numbers 1 & 3 of these goals. Every time I look at hydraulics they just seem to be so expensive and since I don't know how or where to start I've opted out so far.

During the winter of 15/16 I began thinking and engineering in my head to build a CAV that would have 4 tracks. It would be used as a toy to get to some of the ice fishing spots that in the later part of some winters become unaccessable by 4WD SUV due to deep snow. It would also be used for some light duty skidding and to mount my 48” snow blower on and maybe a blade and might have a small dump box (2 or 3 wheel borrows size).

But the MAIN purpose for it is just to have the joy of building it!

When I built my side by side I did it as cheap as possible and although it works great even after 4 years with no problems, it probably would not fetch too much money if I decided to sell it. Having used the engine/trany, steering rack, steering column, heater assembly, WS wipers and a few other things 
from the Lecar I still had $2000 in to it. The steel for the frame alone was $600. And when getting close to finish the piddle things really add up fast. For what I have in it, compared to say a Polaris Ranger, which is what I sort of patterned it after (A friend bought one for $15,000), my own design fits my usage better! I have a automotive heater (toasty warm in sub zero temperatures), safety glass windshield with windshield wipers, removable doors and 4 stroke auto engine reliability and quietness plus a 4 speed transmission instead of a belt torque converter.

Although I have most of the material to build the tracks for this new buggy (48 snowmobile bogie wheels, 32 Harbor Freight 10” OD pneumatic wheels and a roll of 12” wide belting), I decided to make it usable sooner by putting wheels on it first and possibly making the wheels and tracks interchangeable but only after getting it moving 1st.

PREPARING TO BUILD

I began looking for a front wheel drive car and was thinking of placing the engine sideways with shafts then coming out both forward and rearward. I then would have looked for 2 identical rear axels for the front and rear, turning one of them upside down to reverse the drive direction. BUT in my quest for an engine I asked a friend of mine and he had a 1985 Subaru wagon that was 4 wheel drive and even had low range. Perfect and nothing else to look for.

I had to wait for snow to go and frost to come out of the ground (the wheels were sunk in the ground and frozen there). Finally got it home with the help of his backhoe and my trailer (all the brakes were locked up too. Been sitting there for who knows how many years). I did start it before I even moved it to make sure it was OK. Brought a battery and poured some gas in the carb. STARTED RIGHT UP.

I removed the engine/trany assembly  and some other stuff before putting it out in the snow for the winter. I want to make use of as much as I can from the car so as not to have to buy it.

STARTING TO BUILD

I started by what I call floor engineering. I block up the engine on the floor at the ground clearance that I want and then with a chalk marker draw lines on the floor to simulate the size of the frame and make measurements to obtain an idea of size.



Then I build a mock up wooden frame to check out how things will be before I start cutting metal.






I saw right off the bat that the original u-joint at the rear trany output was not going to work for the sharp angle I was expecting it to be at during full turn. After thinking about how I might add a center support with an additional u-joint and not coming up with a satisfactory solution, I came upon the idea of replacing that u-joint with a front axel constant velocity joint like a front wheel drive car has at the wheel. Perusing EBAY yielded a new complete Ford front axel for $50.

I cut and machined the slip yoke of the Subaru driveshaft and cut off the axel stub from the axle and welded them together. Here the yoke is being turned on my 1920 Springfield Ideal Lathe.



The finished joint



Now it was time to begin building the engine part (front) of the frame. I had decided on using 2"x 3"  14 gauge tubing for the frame This was all TIG welded with a recently purchased AHP Alpha TIG 200 welder. Compared to welding aluminum, steel is a piece of cake with TIG and no slag or sparks to clean off..






Thanks for looking! Much more to come.

Aaron


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## Dave Smith (Mar 12, 2017)

Aaron----wow our dream projects are almost identical----I have been saving parts for a center articulated 4 wheel drive utility vehicle that will have a snowblower--a loader--a boom ---a blade---and lots of hydraulics and pneumatics---a downright handy shop and yard buddy----wish we lived closer to work on them together and share supplies-----I have been saving a Fiat 600 motor and tranny for over 40 years---a 92 Suzuki 16 valve 4cyl motor and parts for about 15 years and some John Deere 2-cyl LUC  motors for 7 years--------I've got all the metal I need, so I better get started on something this year before I forget my plans----will be watching your progress with much enthusiasm---Dave


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## brino (Mar 12, 2017)

Outstanding write up, with a great set of pictures!
Aaron, thanks! It is really appreciated.

-brino


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## AGCB97 (Mar 13, 2017)

TOOLING UP

When I started planning to build this thing a year ago, I thought about how I was going to be able to fabricate some of the stuff. I had always wanted a lathe since I took machine shop in high school but it was never a priority expenditure. I had been a mechanic for 30 years (auto, truck, motorcycle and 6x6) and in 96 switched to self employed builder/carpenter. So for those trades I had all the tools and equipment and a nice wood shop & mechanic shop.

I started looking for a lathe not really knowing what I wanted but found one on Craigslist in Lower Michigan and began a conversation with the seller. Seems he was sort of buying/selling machinery on the side and in talking to him about a Atlas lathe that he had, found out he also had other stuff!

To make a long story short, I became interested in a Johnson band saw and Bridgeport mill that he had. I ended up buying the lathe and band saw from him but found a better, newer mill not too far away. So on that trip (in-laws live near Pontiac, 500 miles from me) I came home with an overloaded trailer with 3 machines. I soon decided that the Atlas lathe was too small for what I wanted to do and was back to perusing Craigslist.

In August my cousin Ted who has a nice heavy equipment trailer and 1 ton truck helped me get a 1920 Springfield Ideal Lathe (over 2 tons) home from western Wisconsin. Now this is what I wanted! It came very well equipped with much tooling and in good condition. Ted also has a heavy loader so was able to lift it off the trailer and put it into my shop.



We don't have a Harbor Freight around here so I always have a list when I get to the bigger cities. I've picked up a 20 ton shop press, 4” grinders, belt/disk sander and other things. I would not buy Harbor Freight tools to make my living with but for limited use by a DIY they fit the bill and budget if you watch and research them first.

The TIG welder had been purchased not long before all this began.

The mechanic shop has turned into a machine shop and I wish it were bigger (I've never heard anyone say their shop is too big but there might be such a crass fellow out there somewhere!). I've told my wife that I'm done building buildings. But possibly an addition???  I do have a surface grinder due to arrive in April and it will completely fill the shop.

So not all this equipment is necessary to build the buggy but I've found that I like doing machining very much!

Thanks again for looking
Aaron


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## FOMOGO (Mar 13, 2017)

Well, I guess between Aaron and Dave, we better stock up on the popcorn. Should be fun following along. When I was in the Netherlands last year I saw several very cool, small articulating 4-wheel drive units that they used in the old metro areas, where access was limited. I'll see if I can find some pics. Mike


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## FOMOGO (Mar 13, 2017)

Here you go.  Aaron, pretty country up by you, had a girlfriend from Iron Mnt. and used to go up there from time to time back in the 70's. Seems I recall they had some issues with old mines collapsing and sections of road disappearing around that time. Cheers, Mike


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## AGCB97 (Mar 13, 2017)

FOMOGO said:


> back in the 70's. Seems I recall they had some issues with old mines collapsing and sections of road disappearing around that time. Cheers, Mike
> View attachment 228544



Yes, the main highway fell in once but I it was before then cause I didn't see it or was too young. I graduated in 70.

That looks much smaller than my buggy will.

Aaron


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## AGCB97 (Mar 14, 2017)

REAR FRAME SECTION AND PIVOTS

Before starting to build the rear frame, some thought went in to the steering pivot and how it would affect the length of the drive shaft. I had to determine the exact apex of the CV joint when at angle and make sure the apex and steering pivot were both at the same point vertically. If they were different the slip yoke would move too much on the trany output spline and could either bottom out in the trany or come off the spline.



I wanted all the wheels to stay on the ground no matter how uneven the ground was. So in addition to the steering pivot there is a (for lack of a better or proper word) twist pivot. On a log skidder or loader this is done by pivoting one of the axles. Here the whole rear frame is pivoted. In an aircraft this would be called roll.









I was planning to build the pivots from scratch and had purchased material to do that but found that at the price these pillow block bearings can be had on EBAY I'd be wasting my time building them.




SPINDLES AND DRIVE AXELS 

I'm trying to use as much stuff from the car as I can to keep the cost down but one thing that was unusable were the spindles. There's just too many lugs and weird shapes to be able to figure a way to fasten them in place. So I decided to turn new ones on the lathe. I had 2 pieces of heavy wall mechanical tubing, I bought one more and one I turned from a piece of solid stock.






All that boring boring (pun intended) gave me an excuse to make a large boring bar that would gladly take a heavy cut and speed up the operation . See thread on this forum large boring bar

I purchased new sealed ball bearings. The back of the spindle has a welded on shoulder and the bearings are held in by an insert with 3 set screws. Front and rear are built the same but the rear are slightly smaller.






The original wheels and hubs had a 4 hole bolt pattern but the wheels that I wanted to use (from a previous truck I owned with near new grippy tread tires) had 5 hole bolt pattern. So I rebored the hubs on the mill using the DRO bolt circle function. 1/2" fine thread grade 8 bolts were used for studs






and they were welded on the back side of hubs.



There will be a sprocket and chain reduction at each wheel. I have no need to go fast but must be able to go slow for the snow blower. 11 and 28 tooth sprockets and #50 chain.












These pictures were taken before bracing was added to support members and the plan is for even more.

Thanks for looking
Aaron


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## brino (Mar 14, 2017)

Was it Ford that said to event you need an imagination and a good scrap pile? (very paraphrased I am sure!)

Aaron, it looks like you have both.
Thanks for sharing the build!

-brino


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## AGCB97 (Mar 16, 2017)

MOTOR MOUNTS AND FRAME FLEX ISSUE

The motor mounts were fabricated from 1-1/2" square tube and sized/designed with the engine blocked on the floor.



I had to use some shock absorber grommets to replace the original cushions at the trany that were rotten or torn because most replacement parts for a 32 year old vehicle are not available.



You may notice in many pictures that there are overly long bolts and no lock nuts or washers. This is because the engine and anything else that's removable has yet to be removed so that I can do the finish welding on the underside of the frame and other hard to get at places. This has been done at least twice so far and will probably be done at least 2 more times. The last time I found that I could no longer lift the frames onto a table by hand so a winch was attached in place of where a chain block sometimes hangs from the ceiling so the parts could be lifted onto the table or stood upright on the floor. The winch was far faster than the chain hoist



As I was afraid of when I started to choose steel for the frame, (see thread on this forum Steel design ) there is a lot of up/down pressure on the steering pivot which causes the rear member of the front frame to flex (actually twist). This is probably the most highly stressed area of all the frame. It was not noticeable until I clamped a 4 foot piece of bar vertically on it and then loaded some weight in the area. Then it could be measured. The cure was to add bracing from the 2x6" channel that mounts the pillow blocks, tying them to the frame side rails, both sides top and bottom. No more flex seen!







STEERING AND PEDALS

Much thought went in to choosing and designing the steering. Once the front and rear frames were connected together, a protractor and chalk lines on the floor again gave an idea of how much angle would be needed to make a turn tight enough to turn around in ABOUT a 16' wide roadway. That seemed like a sharp enough turn to go around trees in our swamp if it gets used for skidding. there was also the concern about the rear wheels running into the front wheels on a tight turn but that proved not to be a problem.

Next was how to make it turn. I knew it could be done with hydraulics but that added a bunch of expense and complexity to it. I wanted to stay away from that if possible. I decided to try a pickup truck steering gear and so that no pump would be needed, I searched for a manual one. They are available on EBAY but I called my local auto salvage and they had a Ford truck manual gear. He said it fit all size trucks (Ranger and full size) for many years. It was even cheaper than EBAY. I think these kind of places are hurting now days because the bulk of their sales is in older body repair parts. Hardly anyone buys used engine and running gear parts anymore. Much unlike when I was fixing cars 20-40 years ago.



It took a lot of trial and error to get it to turn far enough without hitting some frame part or going too far over travel where the arm would not pull it back to neutral position by itself. The gear did not have enough travel to go all the way both sides so a counter arm to increase the travel distance was necessary.






I purchased rod end bearings and turned and threaded links on the lathe.



In order to solve 2 problems at once...

1. lack of power steering

2. making the column shaft and the gear shaft work together (alignment wise)

A chain and sprocket reduction was added.



The steering column from the car was shortened and a bushing made for the tube. Then the shaft was turned and a key slot cut in it. (NOTE Anywhere there are u-joints including all the axle shafts they are woodruf keyed with 3/16 x 7/8" woodruf keys). A short shaft was made to go between the u-joint and the sprocket. A flange bearing was added underneath. As it is right now the lock to lock steering wheel travel is 16 turns. If that proves to be awkward the ratio can be easily changed with the sprockets. If it seems too slow a spinner may be all that's needed.

I definitely wanted to use the steering column from the car with all those switches and controls because it would save having to buy. Some switches will be re-purposed.

The pedal bracket with all three pedals from the car worked perfectly mounted on a piece of 2" channel and the steering column was fastened to it. The pedals were bent apart to accommodate big booted feet.






The brake master cylinder from the car will be used and to start with it will be installed less the vacuum assist. That could be added easily if needed.

THE FUTURE

Just a few more posts and you will be caught up to the present time. New stuff will come much slower then!

I also have some trips scheduled for the near future and a knee replacement in May. That will really slow down the project!
Hope you enjoy and maybe get ideas. I also appreciate any suggestions and comments or pics of stuff you have done.

Thanks
Aaron


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## FOMOGO (Mar 16, 2017)

Coming along very Nicely Aaron. Looking forward to future installments, and hope all goes well with the surgery. Cheers Mike


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## FOMOGO (Mar 16, 2017)

multiple post


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## FOMOGO (Mar 16, 2017)

multiple post


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## brino (Mar 17, 2017)

AGCB97 said:


> Much thought went in to choosing and designing the steering.



That is obvious. Very ingenious re-purposing of parts you have going!

How much planning went into the winch electrical connections? 
(just kidding, we all do things in a rush sometimes!)

-brino


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## Silverbullet (Mar 17, 2017)

Looks good, I have a dream vehicle for me a tracked power wheelchair . They sell them but not at a price a real disabled person can afford. Or a four wheel drive one to fit a big man not a three ft midget. I've even got several power chairs and scooters to use. The part that worries me is the controller for four wheel drive. Tracks will be easier then 4x4 , I think.
So yes others have fairly large projects. A dozen years ago or so I built a tilting log splitter with old parts and motor . It only had to run at an idle to split the toughest wood, if you sped it up it built to much pressure and would blow the fittings or hoses. Powerfully built the hydraulic pump came from a dump truck. It's still splitting wood to this day same motor and all. Ill be watching for tips on my future builds . Thanks


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## AGCB97 (Mar 21, 2017)

Silverbullet said:


> I have a dream vehicle for me a tracked power wheelchair .I've even got several power chairs and scooters to use. The part that worries me is the controller for four wheel drive.



Do you have any plans in your head or elsewhere for this project? Pics of something similar? What kind of terrain would you use it on?

Aaron


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## Silverbullet (Mar 21, 2017)

AGCB97 said:


> Do you have any plans in your head or elsewhere for this project? Pics of something similar? What kind of terrain would you use it on?
> 
> Aaron


Some would depend on the motor drive I could use. I have two large from a wrangler scooter with low hours on them . And I have a power wheelchair set the same . The scooter is fast which i like . I found some link chain that has angle pieces every few links. Think it's for conveyor belts. Looks about size fifty chain. 
I thought about making a frame for the tracks and adapt it to a power chair frame with the scooter motors . But the tracks have me puzzled. I know rollers are needed and drive sprockets . They need to be able to travel in sand and brush . That or make it four whee drive. The scooter drive wheels mount right to the motors if the four of those could work together it would be as good as tracks. I'd need some heavier front end too. I don't know I see them on YouTube and nothing to it for them to make so I figure I can too. But my project list just to get my shop up and running is tops for me now. Going back to the pain doctor next Tuesday see what he says about all the side affects I've been having no fun. If he wants to do another epidural I'm making sure I get a full bottle of saline before I leave, ended up in the er from the last one. They sell them but I'm unable to even think that way.  Someday ill do it.


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## AGCB97 (Mar 22, 2017)

If this was 4 wheel, would it be Ackerman type steering or something else?

With 2 different kinds of motor drive wheels, I can see how it might be a challenge to make them work together unless they had some sort of feedback that could be monitored by a controller. I don't know how they are controlled in the factory units.

Tracks for off road would have to be unaffected by all the clutter they could pick up or be able to plow on regardless.  Wheels seem simpler.

Aaron


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## Silverbullet (Mar 24, 2017)

I saw simple build with the frame two motor four wheels. Driven by chains to two wheels and one motor per side . Using the joystick to control the turns like the wheelchair . Solid axles with oversized tires.
Also saw a power chair with tracks mounted over the motor and chain drive to tracks. YouTube has a lot of them . Plus some are sold from $8,000.00 on up .
No reason anyone who lives on $1,000.00 a month can't afford one right. 
Ill build one someday I've got three machines given to me to do what I want with use sell or give away.


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## AGCB97 (Nov 3, 2019)

I'm about to get back to this project and hope the thread is OK to continue.
I know it's 2 1/2 years old but things happen and I've been busy.

So it took me more than a day just to clear the clutter off of it the other day. It has been sitting in the middle of the shop all the time and SOMEHOW was a good place to set things on. On Friday I took the 1/2s apart and tipped them over or up so I could see/get at and finish welding all joints that were not completed before. Yesterday I put them back together with the floor, seat and steering column temporarily set in place so I could begin laying out the shape of the cab (which is where I was in March of 2017 just before my knee replacement).

Next post I'll update a few pics. I do plan to have this done before winters end!

Thanks for looking
Aaron


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## Old Mud (Nov 3, 2019)

Well i'll be watching Aaron. Most older folks know and understand "Things happen". Even after a year or two you're doing well to be able to pick up where you left off. Carry on !!


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## AGCB97 (Nov 5, 2019)

Yesterday I laid out a cab frame shape with wood furring strips. Requisites were it must be able to fit under a standard 7' garage door lintel, good visibility immediately in front of wheels, proper head clearance and keep front glass to a reasonable size.

Had a bunch of 3/4" x 16 gauge SS sqaure tubing that had never found a use so decided to build it with that. Also found a roll of SS wire for my MIG.

Cut 6 of the 10 tubes using  a new angle finder https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N65SSWN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which worked great and set the band saw angle with it.

Thanks for looking, Aaron


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## C-Bag (Nov 5, 2019)

AGCB97 said:


> I'm about to get back to this project and hope the thread is OK to continue.
> I know it's 2 1/2 years old but things happen and I've been busy.
> 
> So it took me more than a day just to clear the clutter off of it the other day. It has been sitting in the middle of the shop all the time and SOMEHOW was a good place to set things on. On Friday I took the 1/2s apart and tipped them over or up so I could see/get at and finish welding all joints that were not completed before. Yesterday I put them back together with the floor, seat and steering column temporarily set in place so I could begin laying out the shape of the cab (which is where I was in March of 2017 just before my knee replacement).
> ...


I just came on to this and I'm glad you are getting back to it. I have similar background and would rather reuse or adapt rather than reinventing the wheel too. I also appreciate your tendency towards simple and rugged like with the truck steering box for articulation. I also admire your drive and energy. I can only seem to complete much smaller projects. I have a feeling it has to do with your winters as I see other guys talk about doing big projects in the winter. 

Good job and carry on.


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## AGCB97 (Nov 10, 2019)

I've completed the cab frame in 4 days among interruptions. With all the bracing and gussets it is very ridged even with 3/4" thin SS tubing. I laid out all the parts on a table with correct angles and measurements, tacked one side of first one and checked it on the buggy floor for fit and then clamped the other side on top of it and completed welding
all joints. 



Once it was bolted to floor, all bracing was added after sqauring.



It is bolted to the floor so can be removed without cutting anything.



The firewall was also fit so some of the things, like heater, WS wiper etc. can be attached to it and cable/wire access holes can be drilled. A trial shape of the engine cowl is drawn on it.

Tentative list of priority items to do:
   construct heater
   weld brake disks and mount master cylinder
   locate WS wiper motor on firewall
   construct doors
   pre-fit roof sheeting
   sort out engine wiring and hoses


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## DangerZone (Nov 12, 2019)

Slightly off topic. What precautions if any do you personally take when welding stainless? I've been searching for a clear answer, but not finding a clear answer. Some people make allusions to a mask, but I still can't figure out what exactly I should look into.

I'm really enjoying this thread. Can't wait to see the finished product!


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## AGCB97 (Nov 12, 2019)

I just use general common sense. If I see or smell smoke or dust or fumes or farts for that matter I don't stick my head in it and inhale. I sometimes wear things like respirators but more often eye, ear and hand protection. And not having a boss I take breaks outside often.





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I remember my dad saying he heard dimes cause cancer. They ground them up a fed them to rats to prove it. They died!
Aaron


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## tjb (Nov 12, 2019)

brino said:


> Yes please, Aaron!
> -brino


DItto.


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## hman (Nov 13, 2019)

AGCB97 said:


> I remember my dad saying he heard dimes cause cancer. They ground them up a fed them to rats to prove it. They died!
> Aaron


Yabbut - I'd bet they had rich blood when they went


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## AGCB97 (Nov 16, 2019)

Since my last post the heater has been completed. I purchased a new heater core off EBAY and built a housing for it. In the previous buggy the heater was mounted on the floor between the seats so no easy way to get defrost on the windshield. This box has 2 defrost outlets and large heat outlet to the floor. The fan is on engine side of firewall and will have a intake on top of engine cowl with a screen and cover protecting it.

Thanks for looking
Aaron


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## AGCB97 (Nov 18, 2019)

Got started (actually restarted see https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/tacks-cracking.56795/#post-467455)  a few days ago  on the brakes. Been thinking about this since then (2+ years ago) and decided to braze the disks. I 1st put the clamped assembly in the wood furnace for about 2 hours and then used the torch to heat it a little more once I got it to the shop. It seemed to work very good and after slow cooling it was put in the lathe to check runout of the disk. It was very little, plenty good for a <20 MPH vehicle.







Then it was on to boring out the other disk. It was first cut out close to size with the plasma cutter then fasted to the big face plate. I haven't used that for a while so took extra time to make sure it would stay put. Probably way out of balance but at ~1 RPM that was not an issue.



So now it's on to building caliper mounts.
Thanks for your interest.
Aaron


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## AGCB97 (Nov 20, 2019)

Couple days working on caliper mounts among interruptions ( the coolant pump on the band saw stopped working so I had one that came off another machine that was put on. It was way too high volume and pressure so had to put in a  restrictor in the line on Monday. Today that stopped working so I got the original and took it apart for cleaning and now it's back on working good). 

There will be brakes on the front axel only and those are on the CV joint bell at the trany. So I fashioned a link from the top of the trany. If necessary another support can be added to the other end. These calipers are dual piston, one on each side of the disk







Got out the master cylinder and fount it was badly corroded and unusable so have one coming from EBAY for Tuesday. Tomorrow I'll start trying to figure out the engine wiring and hoses.
Thanks for looking.
Aaron


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## AGCB97 (Dec 4, 2019)

Just an update for the past 2 weeks. Pics and more info will follow soon.
In figuring out the ignition wiring I was able to start the engine but it would not continue to run without squirting gas in carb so assumed the carb was gunked up from sitting for20+ years.  Just a good look at the carb made me decide to replace it with a new and much simpler one.  Wouldn't you agree?




So I looked online for a single barrel that looked right and fit the price constraints (I.E. cheap). I found a beauty from a Nissan of some kind (EDIT it's for a VW bug) on EBAY. Will need to make an adapter plate and a different throttle lever.

Also been working on exhaust piping and fit the new brake master cylinder. Pics and more to come.
Thanks for looking
Aaron


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## GoceKU (Dec 4, 2019)

Aron, i truly enjoy reading this thread and seeing all the pictures, this is something i've done in the past. About the brakes, i've had problems with inboard brake disk, bolted to the inner joint on cars, i've had diff bearings fail on me, striped the splines on the inner joint, brake the case of the diff, i'm sure you'll be using much less horsepower than me and slower speeds, but keep an eye on it. Here is a link of my buggy : http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/3386-peugeot-xud9-homemade-tug-loader/#comments


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## AGCB97 (Dec 4, 2019)

Today I worked on the carb adapter. Was surprised to find that the carb didn't have a normal flange on the bottom but was threaded to accept bolts from the bottom. That required making a 2 piece adapter with multiple countersunk bolts.







These are made from linen micarta that I had on hand. They still need a little trimming and prettying up and one more gasket to be made.

Now doesn't this look a lot nicer than the pic in post #35?



Also the throttle lever from the old carb fit perfect w/o work!!




Thanks
Aaron


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## uncle harry (Dec 6, 2019)

FOMOGO said:


> Well, I guess between Aaron and Dave, we better stock up on the popcorn. Should be fun following along. When I was in the Netherlands last year I saw several very cool, small articulating 4-wheel drive units that they used in the old metro areas, where access was limited. I'll see if I can find some pics. Mike



Hey, next time you get back to Big Bend let me show you the articulated loader that I built bout 45 years ago. She is powered by a Wisconsin VG4-D 37 brake hp engine driving a pump for the loader hydraulics, another for the power steering and a variable vol piston pump for the 4-wheel drive  power.


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## AGCB97 (Dec 6, 2019)

I had started on the exhaust system last week but received the rest of the parts and it is now complete. I made new flanges and welded them to 90 degree elbows. 




Then with everything held or clamped in place and while laying on a creeper tacked it together. Found I had to raise the engine off the mounts about 2" to remove the pipe. (when I worked as a auto mechanic a long time ago, we used to bad mouth the engineers that designed things that needed to have so many things removed to get at others) In order to raise the engine I had to remove the starter and the clutch cable bracket.




all joints were then welded on the table. When I went to reinstall it on the engine found that it had warped a little and the flanges were now 1/4" too close together. After thinking for about 15 minutes how I might spread them, came up with the idea of using the shop press in an unconventional way but it worked great after a few tries to get the right amount of stretch after spring back.








So yesterday  the mufflers were received and installed. Yes that's a "S" on the muffler. I want this to be very quiet so as to not bother neighbors or anyone. A similar thing was done with Buggy 1 with so much success that I had to install a tach so I knew how fast the engine was spinning.






A tail pipe spout will complete the job.

I also yesterday put implement attach holes in the front frame. They are a tube welded on both sides so that bolts will not crush the frame. The receiver can also be seen and there is one on rear frame also




Today the painting of the frame was started.




Thanks for looking
Aaron


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## FOMOGO (Dec 6, 2019)

May be a while before I get back up your way, but I'd love to see your rig. Cheers, Mike



uncle harry said:


> Hey, next time you get back to Big Bend let me show you the articulated loader that I built bout 45 years ago. She is powered by a Wisconsin VG4-D 37 brake hp engine driving a pump for the loader hydraulics, another for the power steering and a variable vol piston pump for the 4-wheel drive power.


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## AGCB97 (Dec 14, 2019)

GoceKU said:


> Here is a link of my buggy : http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/3386-peugeot-xud9-homemade-tug-loader/#comments


Quite a project! Where are you in the process now? 
Aaron


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## GoceKU (Dec 14, 2019)

AGCB97 said:


> Quite a project! Where are you in the process now?
> Aaron



I got a rolling frame, but then i changed jobs and free time was non existent, so after looking at it for couple of months i decided to give up on it, not enough time in the day. I cut up the frame and used up what material i could savage. The little niva took its place year later.


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## AGCB97 (Jan 17, 2020)

Well, I've been progressing on multiple fronts. Spent more than a week doing most of the wiring. Have the engine pretty much done and under dash with fuse panel and some light control switches.

To begin with it seemed daunting to get everything ordered and fused. I drew 5 or 6 diagrams, each one a little less messy and with less wires crossed over. Lots of scribbled over 'better ideas'.



I started with a MAXI fuse at the starter connection to battery and then to under dash where there are 2 main relays controlled by the key switch. One powers the main engine circuits, the other various power outlets and wires at remote locations. There is also a horn relay with the 2 others.




The key controls lots of things directly in the run position and a few in the accessory position.


No matter what I tried, I could not get those 2 pics to rotate right!

I used some semi truck cable that I had on hand. It is 7 conductor 14 gauge with a very heavy duty rubber sheath. There are 3 of these cables run through the firewall and one to the back of the vehicle for lighting.

I purchased  a 12 position fuse panel and took it apart to cut the main feed bus into 3 sections that could be fed individually.



Took me about 1/2 day to figure out how to make the WS wiper work and park with a DPDT toggle switch. I remembered doing this same thing about 30-40 years ago.



Also took a good stretch of time to figure out how the multi function switch in the steering column worked and decode the wires.

So until all the exterior lights are installed I'll take a break from electrical.

Thanks for your interest
Aaron


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## brino (Jan 18, 2020)

Aaron,

I always find that drawings like that help me ......twice.
First when putting things together is goes much faster and there is much less re-doing things.
Second, a few years down the line when I need to troubleshoot something.

My problem is keeping those drawing organized and accessable.
I waste too much time re-drawing things when I cannot find the original......and that really slows down the repairs.

-brino


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## Silverbullet (Jan 20, 2020)

Flying thru this build after starting . I ended up with punctured lung at that last pain Dr visit so I'm kinda still fighting my way back to even think about my wheelchair build. So glad to see this beautiful build going on . And I really haven't been on here very much , losing hope sucks.


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## AGCB97 (Feb 4, 2020)

I really wanted to make my own door latches. The doors came out so nice and sturdy that I thought DIY latches would set them off nicely.

I used the same stainless tubing as the cab frame and doors. Milled a sliding latch to fit inside and a cable to unlock.



I milled 4 knobs out of Mycarta and used a slitting saw to make a 1/8" groove half way around with a hole for a cable barrel.



The knobs are on a 3/8" through shaft.

This is the finished product and I'm happy with them. I did spend a lot of time designing and building them though!






They are Shoe Goo'd to the skin with a SS 'U' strap for extra strength.

Getting down to the end of the road soon. Today I plumbed the radiator and filled with coolant. Only 1 leak (a clamp).

Next week I should install the rest of the clear Lexan panels and remainder of outside lights.

Only hold up I see is 6 feet of snow outside the overhead door where it slid off the metal roof.

Thanks for looking
Aaron


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## AGCB97 (Feb 28, 2020)

I was looking at the previous post  (on February 4th) It's now February 28th, 


AGCB97 said:


> Next week I should install the rest of the clear Lexan panels and remainder of outside lights.


and realized that those things are still not 100% completed. It always amazes me how much more time things take that what is thought they would before starting. Although I have worked some on other things also.
Aaron


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## AGCB97 (Mar 27, 2020)

A few more picture updates. I need to get a SS bowl to glue over the brake master cylinder and then the bonnet will be complete. The rectangle cover on the right side is the heater air inlet. Also will install a radiator protector grill.

The plow and blower undercarriage is mostly done but not installed yet. It will be a 'drive on' type with only the need to install keeper pins and hook up the lift chain after driving on. Also connect hoses for blade turn.

The fenders turned out nice. Used the homebuilt slip roll to bend the upper section and the new circle cutter guide to cut the vertical inside piece. These are mainly to keep the mud off the chains and underbody.  Just need to add a little bracing yet. I'm almost out of the 18 gauge SS sheet that has come in handy for the cab etc. but have a piece saved for the plow blade. That will be a summer project as it is not needed till next snow season.

The 12 volt hydraulic unit, valve etc. mounted under the drivers seat are ready to be plumbed to the front cylinders.

Just a little more snow to melt before I can get it out of the shop for testing. Been sprinkling ashes on the snow to help it melt faster!


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## AGCB97 (Apr 10, 2020)

About a week ago I could wait no longer and chiseled out the door opening. See previous post picture.



So the 1st test was done and I was partly surprised by the feeling of the steering having never operated a center articulated vehicle. You could say slightly disappointed. But over the next few days and a little more experience the biggest problem seemed to be the slowness of the steering. It was designed with 16 turns lock to lock of the steering wheel to gain power advantage for not having power steering.

The cure was to add a spinner made from nylon I believe. It's what was lying around.



A radiator protector grill was added which dresses up the front nicely.



Also have been working on the plow and blower 'drive on undercarriage'. It only has to be slightly lined up and guides itself to engagement perfectly. A drop-in pin on each side secures it




So the next project is to build the snow plow. I've drawn a full scale cross section of the blade with push and 'blade trip' sections on the rolling weld table. Kind of a blueprint.
Today , cut the plow blade ribs with plasma



Thanks for looking!
Aaron


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## AGCB97 (Apr 14, 2020)

A couple of 'test' pics. There's not too much of the exterior that will change yet so here are some pics of that first outing.
Thanks for looking.
Aaron


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