# Pedastel Drill mill conversion



## NormBourne (Dec 1, 2013)

Hi  guys,



 I want to use my drill as a milling machine, I'm only talking light plastics  and maybe ai bit of ally from time to time.

The first step would be to dismantle the quill. The thing I have concerns about is drilling the main shaft in terms  of strength etc.

Has anyone  achieved this conversion with success...?

Norm.


----------



## railfancwb (Dec 1, 2013)

A basic "conversion" aka adaptation would involve purchase of an X/Y table or vise. Clamp that on the drill press table such that the table movements are to/from the column and left/right  in front of the column. Small milling cutters can be clamped in the regular chuck, but side pressure from heavy cuts will tend to throw them out - at you. 

A more complex refinement would be to build a nest of three ball/roller bearing assemblies around the chuck and clamped to the column to absorb most side thrusts to protect the spindle and its bearings. This nest would resemble a lathe steady rest such as http://bit.ly/1eDsYvH

Most drill press spindles have heavy racks cut into one side, leaving too little material for boring a through hole of useful size.


----------



## NormBourne (Dec 1, 2013)

railfancwb said:


> A basic "conversion" aka adaptation would involve purchase of an X/Y table or vise. Clamp that on the drill press table such that the table movements are to/from the column and left/right  in front of the column. Small milling cutters can be clamped in the regular chuck, but side pressure from heavy cuts will tend to throw them out - at you.
> 
> A more complex refinement would be to build a nest of three ball/roller bearing assemblies around the chuck and clamped to the column to absorb most side thrusts to protect the spindle and its bearings. This nest would resemble a lathe steady rest such as http://bit.ly/1eDsYvH
> 
> Most drill press spindles have heavy racks cut into one side, leaving too little material for boring a through hole of useful size.



Actually I do have the X-Y table, and yes I've achieved some minor jobs, as you say the prob is it drops out from the taper.

I don't think the thro bolt down the middle  of th e quill would need to be that big, considering that all it has to do is to hold the taper in.

Hving said that I am mindful of what you say regarding lack of material.

I think the answer is to do a major bit of grovelling and buy myself a miller..! After all Xms is coming on.

Thanks mate.

Norm.


----------



## itsme_Bernie (Dec 1, 2013)

Your willingness to do all that work shows that you Deserve to have some type of mill! 

You can find inexpensive mills Norm.  REALLY inexpensive.  Compared to all the work you will do to modify your drill press, you can get a ReALLy ugly milling machine, ChEap, and spend the time and effort getting it going, if any work is necessary.  I am quite confident saying that the ugliest, worst example of a mill you can find, will make a better cut than your drill press will after all your work.

Keep your eyes peeled for whatever turns up locally for you (where in the world is that, by the way?), and spend that time making it fit in your shop and getting it to run reasonably well.  

Really- by the time you spend money and time on the drill, you can find the ugly mill.  Just don't be picky about what.  How are you for space? 

We only tell you this because even accomplishing what you are considering, you still won't achieve terribly nice cuts.  You are correct about the drawbar- it wouldn't take much of a sizeable drawbar to make the taper hold.  The main issues after that are the style bearing that is in drill presses, and the quill length and fit.


Bernie


----------



## NormBourne (Dec 2, 2013)

itsme_Bernie said:


> Your willingness to do all that work shows that you Deserve to have some type of mill!
> 
> You can find inexpensive mills Norm.  REALLY inexpensive.  Compared to all the work you will do to modify your drill press, you can get a ReALLy ugly milling machine, ChEap, and spend the time and effort getting it going, if any work is necessary.  I am quite confident saying that the ugliest, worst example of a mill you can find, will make a better cut than your drill press will after all your work.
> 
> ...



Hi Bernie,
thanks for the encouragement, you are talking sense..! However where I live, Townsville,  North Queensland, Australia, opportunities are limited.

But I am keeping my eyes peeled.

Thanks again,

Norm


----------



## toag (Dec 2, 2013)

I would look for a horizontal mill.  they are very cheap, and snubbed by most.  Kent-owens, Nichols, Barker (love my barker), us machine tool, hardinge.  on the british side adcock and shipley, viceroy etc.  these are in the 3000-700 lb, and are stout, and can make cuts most 500 lb verticals would faint trying.

If you have a lathe, i would mill with the lathe before the drill press.  You don';t even need a milling attachment, just remove the compound, bolt a talbe to the crossfeed and you got a mill with alot of z travel, some x travel, and y travel made up by shim stock.  and after a week of that you'll really be looking for a mill)


----------



## itsme_Bernie (Dec 2, 2013)

Ok, so let's revisit your original idea.  As I see it, with the work you are considering, the worst case scenario is that you have a REALLY nice drill press!  I use an X-Y table on mine anyway, so that is nice to have.

The issue of most concern was the issue for which you were already finding a remedy- the drawbar to hold your taper tools.  Safety first!  Again, worst case scenario- nice to have...

When it comes to the milling forces, and the quality cut you will get with the bearings and quill you have, you will have to just see.

Maybe while you have it all apart, you can put tapered roller bearings in there?  Timkens?  Then you can preload the bearings, and solve most of the issues of the varying forces from milling different materials with different cutters.  I would imagine it would be pretty easy to find equivalent size bearings that will fit in there.  Again, worst case is you have some SWEET  bearings in your drill press!  Just don't ever sell it after souping it up like this hah hah.
I think this part of the project would be less involved than the cool drawbar modification you want to do.

The next thing is the quill fit.  If you feel that the quill, when locked, is pretty sturdy, that is done.  If not, chip away at that.  You will want the quill as retracted as possible of course.

The last thing would be to reinforce the table, or stabilize it somehow.  Even propping it up with a jack, or a block.  I don't know the diameter of your main column.

Do you have any pics of to the setup as it is?  And as Toag asked, do you have a lathe of any kind?


Bernie


----------



## David S (Dec 2, 2013)

Norm I have done what you are considering.  About three years ago when I started repairing old clocks full time I needed a mill but didn't have any more room in my small shop.  I have a very heavy JET bench mounted drill press that I got years ago.  It was made in Japan.

I bought an xy table from busy bee.  You will find that you have to be able to lock the x and y axis, so I removed one gib screw and replaced it with a longer one with a handle.  It provides a quick lock.  My DP has a table that is raised and lowered by a hand crank rack and pinion system.  Although I try to avoid it, sometimes you have to raise or lower the table during your set up and I would lose register.  So I took two large gear hose clamps and clamped the rack to the column.  Now when ever I adjust the elevation I pull the table to the left while locking the collar.  Works very well..but it is not a knee mill for sure.   Next you will need to provide so sort of method to be able to lower the quill (Z) gradually and lock it, so I had to make a mode to do that.  I also added a DRO to the quill.

This DP has a column that is over 3" diameter and the quill is almost 2".  Most of my milling is small projects in aluminum and brass.  Take light cuts, use conventional milling and avoid climbing, and be patient.

Oh as a last thought.. regarding holding the chuck into the spindle.  Years ago when I was drilling large hole in some angle steel the chuck would fall off the taper.  I needed to get the job done, so I think I took some loctite sleeve retainer and put some on the taper and smacked it home and loaded up the feed arms overnight to keep pressure on it.  Well it has never come off since.  Now as I think back, this may not have been my smartest move, but I did what I had to do at the time, and it has never come off in the three years that I have been milling with it.  And yes I do hold end mills in the three jaw chuck.. another no no.

I have made many parts and tools that I am proud of.

David


----------



## pineyfolks (Dec 2, 2013)

If you get an X Y table, a mag drill might make a donor spindle as some already have Z travel with dovetail ways.


----------



## 12bolts (Dec 2, 2013)

NormBourne said:


> ....However where I live, Townsville,  North Queensland, Australia, opportunities are limited........
> 
> Norm



Hi Norm,
I am just a bit up the road from you. I have a mill, and I regularly get down to Tvl so I could praps do a pick up and drop off. Or you are welcome to drop by sometime.

Cheers Phil


----------



## NormBourne (Dec 14, 2013)

12bolts said:


> Hi Norm,
> I am just a bit up the road from you. I have a mill, and I regularly get down to Tvl so I could praps do a pick up and drop off. Or you are welcome to drop by sometime.
> 
> Cheers Phil


Hi Phil,

Thank you for the offer, very much appreciated, if have the need, I'll certainly be in touch.

Thanks again mate,

Norm.


----------

