# Arbor stuck in tail stock



## Braeden P (Aug 17, 2021)

Working on my lathe and I went to take the chuck out but it’s stuck, so I get a wedge… the chuck comes off but the arbor is stuck probably the little bit of moisture caused rust when I was in Colorado and I put on some wd-40 and used vice grips with rubber to not mar the surface.

Ways that would not work

A pinch from behind: the whole assembly is not able to be taken apart due to a part that has stripped screws and drilling them out would break it and a new one would need to be made.

Buying a new one: I only have 20 bucks and I don’t want a cheap one that could be out of spec I want a good one and all of the good ones are over 25 bucks.

Retract the quill: the shank was cut short and has no tang

If anyone has a way please say because I spent an hour with no luck.


----------



## Braeden P (Aug 17, 2021)

Pictures


----------



## Lo-Fi (Aug 17, 2021)

Put back in the lathe, drill and tap the end of the Jacobs taper. Use is as a jacking screw with a plate washer and piece of pipe against the front tailstock quill. Drilling and tapping it won't affect its operation afterwards if you go for something small, maybe 1/4".


----------



## C-Bag (Aug 17, 2021)

Do you have a picklefork used to break tie rods apart? It might fit between the quill and the back lip of the arbor. I don’t think you should worry about that arbor because if the tang is cut off, as you can see it’s impossible to remove and you need a new one.


----------



## darkzero (Aug 17, 2021)

If you fully extend the TS ram to the point where it comes off the handwheel screw, will the ram not slide out of the tail stock? It should, at least the lathes I've used did. With the ram out you should be able to punch out the arbor from the back.

If not then I would do what Lo-Fi suggested, same concept as this.

You can save that arbor & reuse it. Just drill & tap the "tang" side to install a bolt or set screw to make up for the length needed to properly eject it. They even sell screw on tangs but those cost money that you don't need to spend on one anyway.


----------



## benmychree (Aug 17, 2021)

What darkzero said.


----------



## Braeden P (Aug 17, 2021)

It does not come off because hardinge had to make it over complicated I will find a picture soon.


----------



## Braeden P (Aug 17, 2021)

Page 36 part 29 is the nut on mine since the manual is for the later version not mine!



			http://www.babinmachine.com/PDF/Hardinge%20DSM-DV59-PL-12A.pdf
		


The only way to remove it is from the front.


----------



## rwm (Aug 17, 2021)

Remove parts 28 and 29 should get it out? No?
Robert


----------



## matthewsx (Aug 17, 2021)

I like @Lo-Fi ’s method if you can’t tear it apart for some reason. Of course if something is keeping you from doing as designed you should probably fix that issue too.


----------



## SLK001 (Aug 18, 2021)

If you extend the spindle all the way out, you should be able to pull it the rest of the way out (once it is beyond the screw threads).


----------



## RandyWilson (Aug 18, 2021)

There is wisdom in your sig.   Catch a dull cold chisel on the step behind the Jacobs taper and give it a mighty thwack. Try to position the chisel as close to horizontal as you can get, somewhere around 30-45 degrees. You want the force vectors to be mostly outward, but with a good dose of downward at the same time.   

 This is similar to separating a stubborn automotive ball joint taper. hitting straight parallel to the taper won't do it. You need a bit of rocking motion in your aggression.


----------



## Braeden P (Aug 18, 2021)

rwm said:


> Remove parts 28 and 29 should get it out? No?
> Robert


I would have to remove the lead screw which is not possible.


----------



## matthewsx (Aug 18, 2021)

Braeden P said:


> I would have to remove the lead screw which is not possible.


If it was manufactured it definitely can come apart, just how many parts is probably the question. Anything is possible but this may not be desirable for the reasons stated above.

I still like the drill & tap method listed above but the cold chisel may work as well.

Protect your ways, and be patient on figuring this one out. You'll get it

John


----------



## rwm (Aug 18, 2021)

Braeden P said:


> I would have to remove the lead screw which is not possible.


In looking at the diagram, 28 and 29 are listed as a screw and spindle key. They appear to enter the outside of the tailstock casting. I assume this prevents the spindle from rotating and may also prevent you from pulling the spindle out after backing off of the leadscrew? Do I have this incorrect? If so, what is preventing you from unscrewing the spindle completely from the leadscrew?
C Bag's idea of a pickle fork (or drill chuck wedge) is also a great idea.
Robert


----------



## Braeden P (Aug 18, 2021)

To make one thing clear I can not take it apart without ruining a part so I will try to get it from the front


----------



## lordbeezer (Aug 18, 2021)

ReInstall drill chuck with loctite. When cured use wedge.


----------



## SLK001 (Aug 21, 2021)

Apparently, removing the tailstock spindle by running it all the way out of the threads, then pulling it out the rest of the way doesn't work.  What
stops the spindle from being removed like this?


----------



## Weldingrod1 (Aug 21, 2021)

Ok, so here's my Hardinge... I actually had this stuck, so very apropos!

The screwdriver/chisel method worked very well.

I posed a picture with chuck removal wedges: the pickle fork method is similar.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			











Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## Weldingrod1 (Aug 21, 2021)

Hardinge tailstocks are supposed to have a slug floating between the ejector pin and the tooling. They fall out :-( I need to male a fresh one. 0.56" diameter is. Ok. Maybe 1/2" long?
Anything you have that is short tanged or gets stuck you should -fix- once you know about it. You wont regret the time! Even a superglued nut helps...
When I buy Morse collets I put a SHCS in the back for an ejector. I'm going to drill and tap the half center you saw in the last post. In addition to replacing the #$%^ slug that went walkabout...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## Mgdoug3 (Aug 22, 2021)

What about drilling a hole into the arbor bit? Put a drill in your chuck. Drill a hole big enough that you can slide a bolt through and have it act like an ejector pin?

My cheap MT2 tail stock tool didn't wouldn't eject themselves. I had what happened to you once but got it out by removing the barrel which you can't do. To prevent them from happening again, I drill and tapped the holders and used an Allen socket bolt to be used as an exactor.


----------



## Weldingrod1 (Aug 22, 2021)

Btw, that half center? Tail end was hard as #$%^! Fried a drill bit :-(
Went with the superglue and flange nut route.
And got my slug replaced..

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## reh (Aug 22, 2021)

I just had a similar problem with my Atlas 10F, with the MT2 Jacobs chuck really jammed in.  I used #6 Jacobs wedges between the ram and the ridge on the Jacobs taper.  I had my ram out of the tailstock so was easier to handle, but hold a hammer against one wedge and gently tap the other wedge till it pops out.


----------



## rwm (Aug 25, 2021)

Any luck with this?
R


----------



## Illinoyance (Aug 25, 2021)

I had the same problem with some tools failing to eject from the tailstock.  I made a new screw for the tailstock about 1/4" longer than th original.


----------



## Braeden P (Aug 26, 2021)

rwm said:


> Any luck with this?
> R


Not yet


----------



## Dabbler (Aug 26, 2021)

@Braeden P , the wedges and spacer is the most gentle way to remove the arbour.  I have been there.  On the Hardinge I dissassembled the quill only comes out the front - but Hardinge made [very] sic _every_ model different, so I can't help you there.


----------



## Braeden P (Aug 30, 2021)

Cold chisel worked after 15 minutes! Was rusted in place. I got a jacobs 0-1/2 inch chuck with the tang for the great price of $0.50


----------



## woodchucker (Aug 30, 2021)

sure it comes out.   Like RWM said. that should just pull out (part #19 ). Then put it in a press or vise and push it out using a rod, pin punch, whatever. That's an easy fix. Heat will also help break it loose. put part #19 it in the chuck and rotatate and heat it. It should expand before the taper.


----------

