# 10” x 30” lathe master electrical problem



## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 6, 2019)

My lathe was working well and then it started jittering when I turned it on, then it would stop. So I took the casing off and got to the motor and wiring. It was a mess and who ever owned it before even made some mods to the wiring. So, I have a wire hanging off the guard switch and I need to know where it goes. It has the question mark on it in the wiring diagram.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 7, 2019)

Do any of you guys have a similar machine you could post the schematic?


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## markba633csi (Mar 7, 2019)

OK I have a couple questions:  Did you draw the diagram or did he?
Secondly,  I follow the guard switch but what does the pushbutton do? It would not function according to the diagram
I see some ratty connections there, have you fixed those yet?
Mark
ps does the relay have any markings on it?  Do you know what was modded compared to the original?


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 7, 2019)

I made the diagram from what I could trace.  The push button I think was another safety switch on the door covering the gear area, the have simply bypassed this switch. Yes there are connections that I would have never made like that, and I plan on cleaning up the wiring as well as color coding everything once I find the correct wiring or schematic.  I wish I could find the original schematic.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 7, 2019)

The only markings on the relay thing I wrote in the diagram, I could not find any other markings on that device. The drum switch is a LW26-20


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 7, 2019)

They also removed the safety stop switch and put n a simple on/off switch.


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## markba633csi (Mar 7, 2019)

OK I follow you.  The safety switch would be wired in such a way as to drop out the relay coil I think. I'll have to study your diagram a bit more and get back to you.  Do you have a multi-meter or some type of continuity tester? 
M


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## markba633csi (Mar 7, 2019)

Also the forward and reverse switch:  is it working now or has it been working with the current wiring? 
If so, is it supposed to shut off the machine if it is switched while running?  I'm trying to understand the intended modes of operation


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 7, 2019)

Yes I have testers, the on and off switch seemed to do nothing when it was working, it was working until I took it apart and that wire came out from something, that is the mystery.  Yes if I switched it to forward it would work in that direction, center it did nothing and reverse it would go the othe direction but keep in mind I would have to stop the motor in order for the direction to change


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## markba633csi (Mar 7, 2019)

So are you referring to switch 1 at the top of the drawing that did nothing?  Need to be specific since there are several switches


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 7, 2019)

Yes, the push button swt 3 was just made into a continuous line.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 7, 2019)

I was thinking my mystery line is coming from neutral, so I was thinking it had to tie back into the drum swt in order to complete the loop.


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## markba633csi (Mar 7, 2019)

No, because the COM terminal of switch 2 comes from neutral according to your sketch so that wouldn't make sense.
I'm a little confused here. How were you turning the machine on and off? By means of the drum switch?  Or by switch 1?

I can't tell you where the mystery wire goes because I don't know the terminal arrangement of the relay.  That may require some detective work on your part.  I'm also not real clear on the pinout of the drum switch as far as the relay coil switching goes.  We really need the truth table for both the relay and the drum switch then we could get somewhere;  you would need to label the wires, pull them all off, and then use the ohmmeter to id the terminals. It's a time consuming job but it's the sure-fire way to do it.
M


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## markba633csi (Mar 7, 2019)

I found this diagram on Ebay but I don't know if it matches your switch: 
I've seen two different styles


"X" means connect


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 7, 2019)

drum switch


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 7, 2019)

That looks like it, except there is no connection on 10 and 8 is connected not 6. 5 is connect to black on the motor. I thought the relay was there as a momentary switch for the start capacitor?


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 7, 2019)

I found the manual which is close to mine


			https://www.northerntool.com/images/downloads/manuals/426417.pdf
		

page 37 and 38 look somewhat like my wiring setup, except they have extra wires coming from the motor


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## markba633csi (Mar 8, 2019)

See if you can find one of the Grizzly lathes that's similar to yours and has a rotary switch- they have wiring diagrams in their manuals


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 8, 2019)

I have been looking all morning I need find out what that relay is, I think it is an overload relay, but it doesn't seem wired correctly.  At this point I am just trying to find a good working schematic and change all of it for simplification. The push button switch is not need as I do not have a cover door.  The safety off switch I would like to relocate near my knee so if my hands where to get caught up in the machine, I can use my knee to shut it down.
I believe the overload relay is needed for the start capacitor.  My knowledge of motors is in low voltage motors not AC, so I am trying to teach myself knew things here.  
Here are some overload relay schematics


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## markba633csi (Mar 8, 2019)

Apparently you have a single capacitor motor, all the new Grizzly lathes in that size range have dual capacitor motors and a different relay system.
The third picture you posted there in #19 I believe represents how your machine should be wired, except your relay is 3 pole not 4.  Two poles are for power and the third would be for the latching function.
The relay should close and latch when the motor runs. The motor has a centrifugal switch inside which drops out the start cap when it gets up to speed.
The relay should drop out if any of the following happens:
1)The guard switch(s) opens
2)The rotary switch is moved
3) Stop button pushed

Does your machine have/had a push to start switch?  For all the above to work it requires a momentary start power switch, normally open


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 8, 2019)

Ok that is helpful but my motor does have 2 caps, a run and a start cap.  The relay has 8 positions but only 6 are being used, Looking again at my drawing is it possible I have the load and neutral lines backwards?


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 8, 2019)

Here are some pics of them


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## markba633csi (Mar 8, 2019)

OK you do have a dual cap motor.  Four leads coming out + ground.
So what's the story with your start switch?  Was it originally a push button and was replaced with a toggle? That would explain a lot
There should be both a start and a stop button on your machine


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 8, 2019)

Yes I believe it had an emergency stop and yes I think they removed it and put the on/off toggle switch in its place


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## markba633csi (Mar 8, 2019)

If you want to put it back to factory, you will need a momentary start button (normally open) and a momentary stop button (normally closed)
I suspect the relay latch function is not even working now the way it's kludged


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 8, 2019)

That is what I was wondering about, if the overload relay was even working? I have been looking at schematics of all these over machines from 120v to 230v and many just wire directly into the drum switch, for some reason they put the drum after the relay.  Could that be because they were worried that the drum switch could not handle the current? did they change the wiring on the motor? 
something like this


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 8, 2019)

Yes at this point I would like to just rewire it back to its original configuration, and I would like to set build the knee stop in as well.  I am starting to re-draw the schematic, but I do not quite under stand how the overload relay works in the circuit.


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## markba633csi (Mar 8, 2019)

OK understood.  The relay (or contactor) serves two functions here:  First, it does the heavy lifting as far as switching the motor current on and off (the reversing switch is normally not switched while power is applied) and second, it has a dedicated contact which latches the relay on until either the stop button or one of the safety switches opens, then it unlatches and stays off until restarted again.  The relay also has a set of thermal elements which open the circuit if the motor is overloaded.  I'm not sure if your relay has that, it's built-in and sometimes hard to tell.  
The previous owner must have had a switch fail and was unable to get a replacement hence the toggle switch.  
When you flip the power switch off does the motor turn off?  Is it just giving an on/off action?  None of your safety switches are wired in now, correct?


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 8, 2019)

no none are wired in, I agree that that the relay may not have the thermal overload.  Is it possible its just a contractor??? I have been reading most of the day about the motors and relays etc... I did take a pic of my motor and it is .75 HP RPM of 1680. Having a better understanding of the relay we will call it and looking at the CKT it appears the unit was turned on by the Drum Swt. I still have no idea where the mystery wire went.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 8, 2019)

Looking at it again SWT 1 would have had to be in the ON position to energize the coil on the relay.  Once the coil was energized the guard swt would need to be closed so the neutral would be connected ( to what I don't know) could it have been just sitting touching the chassis which would have gone to Ground? But that would put a ground condition on connector 7 and 3 of the drum Swt, and on U1 of the Motor.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 8, 2019)

I am thinking my drum swt might be like this


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## markba633csi (Mar 8, 2019)

Yes, we really don't know for sure. So you should remove all the wires from it (label them first) and check with your continuity meter.  See if it matches that one or the one I posted.  Then we can make some sense of it


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 8, 2019)

Good idea, I will do that and post up what I find


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## markba633csi (Mar 8, 2019)

Good, I can draw up a circuit diagram for you in a matter of minutes once we know the pinouts of your hardware


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 9, 2019)

Here is what I have from the continuty check on the drum switch, keep in mind there was a jumper on 3 and 7.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 9, 2019)

I re-drew the current schematic with the conductivity of the drum, I drew only 2 positions of the switch because I am not sure which direction they are.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 9, 2019)

You will notice that white wire V1 stays in position 2, and changes on 1and 3.  the blue wire W2Z2 changes between 5 and 7 and stays on 8. I took the push button switch out of the Ckt.


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## markba633csi (Mar 9, 2019)

I'm going to redraw it here and study it for a bit- are you totally sure about the continuity of pins 9, 10, 11, and 12? You double checked?
That rotary switch is an odd one for sure
You'll notice there's a wire on pin 11 but nothing on 9, 10 or 12.  I think that's a clue- it's going nowhere


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 9, 2019)

yes, I did it a few times, I found the manufacture for the drum switch and they still make them out of china, but they do not make the one I have for this lathe, they LOP and Y with Delta not a rev, 0, and For.


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## markba633csi (Mar 9, 2019)

I believe your mystery wire, from guard switch goes to pin 12 of the rotary switch.  However, when the guard switch is installed, which contacts are closed when the guard is in place?  You need a normally closed contact there for this to work.
And your power switch #1 needs to be a momentary push button, normally open
For the moment, add that wire, then flip the power switch on then off, the motor should run until you move the guard switch, then it should stop. But you may have to hold the guard switch closed depending on how the lathe operates it mechanically
You also would need to add a stop button, (normally closed) in series with the same wire you are adding
You follow all that?


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## markba633csi (Mar 9, 2019)

In other words, the guard switch may be using the com and the normally open contact if the switch is pushed closed by the guard when it's down. Then lifting the guard opens the circuit, drops out the relay and stops the motor.
Be careful testing, don't let it short out or shock you


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 9, 2019)

Yes I got it, the guard witch can but setup either normally open or normally closed.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 9, 2019)

Yes I think that is the correct operation


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 9, 2019)

I am off to find some switches


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 9, 2019)

This should work with the on off toggle correct ?


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 10, 2019)

I made a mistake the pins 1 and 5 on the drum switch had a jumper also


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 11, 2019)

Here is my switch idea, momentary on/off to the right and on/off toggle with the aircraft emergency paddle on it.


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## markba633csi (Mar 11, 2019)

Yep the button should work


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 11, 2019)

its only rated for 6Amps will it be ok to use


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 13, 2019)

Would this switch work better


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## markba633csi (Mar 13, 2019)

6 amp should be fine since the relay does the hard work
M


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 13, 2019)

Ok


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## Truefire (Mar 14, 2019)

Kungfo did you ever get your machine running? 

You didn't specify, but I may have missed it, is the source feeding your lathe 120v or 240v-- the source coming into to your machine?  I'd start out by eliminating two simple facets of the equation first.  We are probably 98% certain it's not an incoming power issue...but put a meter on the incoming wires...verify as a process and move to the motor.  Bypass all the other components and wire straight through a known 'good working switch' straight to the motor to ensure the motor is working.  This will tell dispell any thought about one of the windings having popped or gone bad internally.  The manner you desribed your machine's behavior and noise sounds to me like a capacitor or winding issue but then again it could be a contact on a relay that was spotting and intermittently receiving continuity. 

However, we'd like to ensure the motor runs apart from all the other components first.  Handle this leg of the equation and if we determine the motor is in good spirits we can move back to the control components and relays.  It just sounds to me like it could be a motor or capacitor issue...that intermittency and noise you described.  I'd eliminate the motor as being a possibility and then move from there.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 14, 2019)

Not, yet I am still trying to figure it out, source is 120v.  It’s funny you suggest that because I was going head that direction. I have been studying this schematic I made and many others my question is “why is the relay/contactor needed?” Why couldn’t I just do away with it and some of the other safety measure and just wire direct to an on off switch?


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## markba633csi (Mar 14, 2019)

You essentially had that with the toggle- no stop button or guard switch.  But it's not as safe.  The relay does the high current switching and overload protection and latching function so if you eliminate that you need heavier duty switches which cost.
Keep it stock is my recommendation- start button, stop button, guard switch, the whole banana
Mark
ps post 40 and 41 should have everything you need to get back on the air- let me know if you are still puzzled


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 14, 2019)

I agree with you, but let me run this idea past you first, since this has become basically a restoration project now. What if I used 2 relays like a 700-cf220 Allen Bradley, one for forward and one for reverse?


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## Truefire (Mar 14, 2019)

I'd still disconnect the main power coming into the machine and wire directly to the motor through a manual switch, you know to be in good working order, to test the motor and remove it from the equation as a potential host.  That would squelch any concern regarding the 'jittering' behavior and remove both the motor and it's capacitors from the equation....if found to be in good working order.   Considering the machine is wired at 120V, most likely your amperage is only going to be around 12-15 amps, depending on hp, so just ensure your switch that you use to test is rated for upwards of of 15-20 amps and you'll be fine.  Bypassing this to test the motor isn't going to hurt anything.

And as others have stated, the relay is simply there so that you can have a safety margin built into the operation factor of the machine....namely the guard switch.

That said I believe your issue here is simply a broken neutral connection on the control circuit.

Once you've tested the motor-- I noticed in your latest schematic #36 that the past owner or someone has the control portion of the relay (A1 and A2) not wired conventionally.  A1 is usually always the terminal for your hot and A2 is for your nuetral connection in a single phase situation.  Someone has that wired backwards here and is using A1 as the nuetral connection and A2 for the hot.  Considering this case, that loose wire coming from your guard switch would have to go to A1 at your relay in order to complete the control circuit.  Namely, the neutral side of the circuit.  At this point, there is no neutral connectivity there at the A1 terminal, in order to complete the neutral circuit.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 14, 2019)

I think you are right on all accounts, I have not had to test it this week so far I am hopefully going to get to it tomorrow or this weekend


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 14, 2019)

I just got back from an electrical supply house and the guy there said the same thing about the neutral on the guard switch, he thought that loose wire needs to go to twelve, A1 and A2 I wrote those backwards on the diagram you are right on those also. Thanks for all your help, I will test the motor by itself and report back what I find.


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## Truefire (Mar 14, 2019)

Ok, you're saying you just wrote in 'A1' and 'A2' backwards, correct?  And yes, it does appear that landing that wire on #12 would indeed complete that neutral portion of the circuit. (( #12 on -Position 2- switch that is (schematic drawing #36)).

Keep us posted.  This is a very simple repair, sometimes the forest of wires prevent one from seeing the tree.  Processes of elimination is the best course of action.  Don't worry we'll get it and have that machine up and running again.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 14, 2019)

Yes aaa wrote it backwards I looked again after you wrote that, and I have it backwards.  Simple repair not now, I have it all torn apart and I am re-doing all the the bad connections and cleaning up the wiring. I will re-write the schematic once i have it back together for others if they have similar problem. Thanks again for your imput it has been very helpful.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 14, 2019)

Here is the original wiring diagram with changes and corrections


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## Truefire (Mar 14, 2019)

Yes, not a bad idea at all- putting a schematic up here for others.  And for clarification sake and for those which follow, A1 and A2 terminals are always the control function side of a relay.  They are used to receive a voltage input from a switch, remote switch, etc; and used to pull the coil in.  

For single phase relays:  
A1 - for Hot 
A2 - for Neutral


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 14, 2019)

thanks, you are awesome!
i hope to be making chips this weekend.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 18, 2019)

I did not get to it as I had liked, had to do honey do lists this weekend, plus I had a 7x10 mini lathe in pieces I had to put back together.  It has been in a box for 10 years, I got it all together except one screw.  Still working on cleaning up the lathe master as it was covered in grease and oil, then I will get to re-wiring.


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## Truefire (Mar 20, 2019)

Gotcha Kungfo...sounds like you're having all grades of fun.  Have fun man.  Keep us posted on that wiring.  chris


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 20, 2019)

I had a little time last night to put more wires together I tested the motor and it is fine,, so I have started putting back together.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 21, 2019)

I have proof of life, it’s alive!
I wired to the last schematic however the switch when I turn it off, does not turn it off, only the drum switch in the 0 position stops it.  I didn’t try the guard switch.  It runs forward, off, reverse.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 21, 2019)

next i would like to wire up the yellow stop switch i bought, i only wired it in the original setup to see if it worked.  I am driving call me please not sure exactly how to wire the safety switch in, could you guys help?


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## markba633csi (Mar 21, 2019)

Refer back to post 40 and 41, all safety switches would go in series with the "mystery wire" you originally asked about- let us know if you're not clear on this
Mark


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 21, 2019)

I will do that, I am doing some research on it, right now it is clear as mud, but I will draw up the schematic and incorporate the new switch, and see what you think. it will have to be tomorrow though.
Thanks again for your input


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## Truefire (Mar 22, 2019)

Cool news.  I'm following from sideline...I think too much converse might just make for a confusion.  All of us can't handle this, so I'll let mark.  I will say this, if your normal operational switch will not turn the unit off, then somewhere you are losing your control circuit from that switch perhaps to the control side of the relay.  Remember -A1 and A2 that I spoke of earlier?


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 22, 2019)

Ok I am working on the schematic


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 22, 2019)

Ok here is what I have so far, I am not sure where to wire A,B,C,D,and E. B and C where connected to the on/off switch so I took it out as I want to put the new on/off NVR switch.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 23, 2019)

I redrew the CKT again made some changes, does this look correct? Do I need A and B?


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 23, 2019)

It just seems A or B need to be tied into hot and neutral respectively, as a keep redrawing this circuit it seems they really did not do anything. However I don’t quite understand the single phase control circuit. Here is another schematic redraw.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 23, 2019)

in the original setup that on off just acted as a switched jumper or bypass, if it is in the off state and the guard switch is turned then the motor will not run.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 27, 2019)

I stepped away a few days to work on modifying a QCTP for my master lathe and today it hit why couldn't I just connect A and B together and it all should be good to go, correct?


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## Truefire (Mar 28, 2019)

I noticed a discrepancy in your schematics:
(1)  -  (74) you had the Neutral wire leaving the bar, striking the contact and then heading over to the switches.
        - Now in (75) you have the hot striking the contact and heading to the switches.  
      could you clarify and validate which?

(2) You need to verify your control circuitry.  You drawing has both the neutral wire and your hot going up through your switches.  It can't be this way unless there's something unique about those switches that i'm not familiar with.  Usually use just the hot to break through control switches but you can use the nuetral wire to do, you'd just have to stay consistent with either one, going all the way through the control circuit.  One or the other.  I'd use the hot wire though just because it's easier to troubleshoot and you can grab a reading off a contact terminal on a switch to ground (anywhere on your machine housing).  So just verify that nuetral wire you have drawn in on the right side of your control circuit on (top right of (75))

(3)  Yes you'd need that A wire..that's your nuetral wire which completes the control circuit to A2 on your relay and makes the electromagnetic contact pull in because of coil.  I don't think however that it needs to go up through anything other than just be terminated on A2 from your power supply entry point, which appears you have a terminal strip there.  

A2 is typically wired for the nuetral and A1 for the Hot wire, verify your setup/ compared to your drawing.

So the way the control circuit works is, to have a complete circuit (one end of the coil -found inside your relay-  is bonded to the nuetral whereas the other end is just sitting there idle awaiting for the hot to strike A1, which is the other end of the coil, thereby pulling in the contact. 

The hot wire should go through an off switch first (which are Normally Closed) _-You do have momentary simple push button on and off switches, correct? -- 
then the hot leaves the off switch and goes through the Normally Open (On) switch.  There is usually a set of auxillary holding contacts on the side of most motor control contactors, which continue to hold the control circuit complete, until the OFF switch is hit.  I'm trying to determine based off your drawing how your setup does that after the ON switch is hit.


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## Truefire (Mar 28, 2019)

One other thing, for clarity sake, please indeed do verify that the control hot is indeed going to A1 of the relay?  Hot


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 28, 2019)

In 74 and 75 the neutral is going to the same point I just switched the load and neutral side around on the incoming input.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 28, 2019)

In picture 74 the load is jumper to A1 and in 75 the load is still going to A1 but it first is traveling through the switches.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 28, 2019)

The schematic in 76 is a cleaner version of 75


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Mar 28, 2019)

The on/off switch I want to use is the one pictured in post 50, it appears to have a relay and came with no wiring information at all, so I went online and I copied other wiring schemes using this switch.


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## Truefire (Apr 6, 2019)

Kungfo-- hey bud.  Sorry to have left you standing.  I received notification in my email several days ago when you posted the most recents.   I read them at that time and gave thought.  I accidentally forgot to get back up with you that evening.  I've been bouncing around between a couple of different things and had an ongoing pressing electrical project that I had to complete.

That switch in #50 would work just fine.  Its just a double pole, single throw so it would indeed work in your scenario, given your two separate safety loops.

I did notice how your switch loops in drawings 74 and 75- had been flip flopped on different sides of the page.  I caught it.  

Now then. The design logic behind using the double pole for the main switch is simply to break the hot through one side of the switch and the nuetral through the other side.  It's a way the manufacture decided to build a third safety layer into the control circuits.  It doesn't necessarily have to be this way but that's the foundational wiring schematic here, so just stick with that and it will be fine.  Maybe use some white tape on all your neutrals near terminations, just to signify to you they are indeed nuetral wires...just so you'll know when you take the cover off five years from now. 

From your relay-- 5A needs to go to your neutral there at your incoming power feed.  That would complete the circuit for neutral portion of the circuit.  Only thing I can envision 6B to be, is for feeding a small lamp bulb or LED that lights up when all guards are in place and satisfied to the point that it pulls the relay in, at which point a lamp might light signifying that your 'good to go'.  Perhaps the past owner had such an arrangment.  Other than that, I can't see anywhere, where it would actually be needed in order for the control circuitry to work and pull the relay in.  Perhaps, just cap it off with a small wire nut for now.

All looks well now....just keep your hot going through -one side- of the #50 type switch and your nuetral going through -one side- and you'll be sitting on green then.


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## markba633csi (Apr 6, 2019)

Hmm It looks like the on/off switch you chose is actually duplicating the function you had already with the original relay.
The original circuit used a simple single pole, normally open switch I believe.  You don't/didn't need the relay latching function of the new switch,  just a momentary contact.
Looks like Truefire has a good handle on it though, so I'm going to let him finish helping


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## Truefire (Apr 6, 2019)

With this relay setup a single momentary contact switch wouldn't work for this situation I don't believe.  Momentary contact would be broken as soon as the switch is not being depressed, which would cause the relay to dropped out immediately.  I don't see any holding contacts (auxiliary contacts) at the relay.


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## markba633csi (Apr 6, 2019)

No his original configuration was a latching one- refer to post #1, the only thing needed to fix was to connect a wire from the ? to pin 12 of the drum switch and change the on/off toggle back to a single pole NO momentary. That's it.
Mark


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Apr 6, 2019)

Mark it does run now with it being attached to pin 12, Truerfire thanks for looking back on it, I was thinking this would work I have started making a mock up board with an attached to motor I can play around with.  I will try my new schematic on the mock up and then when I have it working correctly I will transfer it to my machine.  I did want to add a light to signal it is working so I might just add one there, thanks.


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Apr 6, 2019)

I found my box of relays and I had some Siemens I might add to the mock up board to think about changing this setup to 3 phase at some point.


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## Truefire (Apr 7, 2019)

Cool news Kungfo!!


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Apr 8, 2019)

thanks


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## darkzero (Apr 20, 2019)

I posted in your other thread but it looks like you've been looking for the original manual? I still had it in my PC (I used to have a HF 8x14 but purchased a number of parts from Bob/LM).

The manual is not very detailed though (manual is the same for both the LM 8x14 & 9x30) but at least it has something on schematics. HF 8x14 manual doesn't cover any electrical. The 9x30 is pretty much the same as the 8x14 so wiring should be the same, just physical size is different. All made by Eagle Industries IIRC. http://www.cneagle.com


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## KUNGFOMATIC (Apr 20, 2019)

Thanks again for posting this, I was hoping it would be more thorough in details. Trying to find information on it has been a daunting task. I was also hoping to dimensions of the change gear bracket.


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