# Fire damaged 12x36 import lathe restoration.



## Shawnson (Feb 9, 2021)

I have wanted a lathe forever. Never had enough of a need to buy what I really wanted so I have always put it off. I have never run a lathe before so I figure the rebuild process will teach me a good bit about it. I used to watch Grandpa work in his machine shop all the time as a kid but I was too young to learn then and he is gone now. 

A few weeks ago I scored myself an awesome project. The guy wanted to give it to me for free but I threw him 100 bucks. Basically paid scrap metal price for it. It was involved in a house fire and it needs plenty of love. I was actually the officer that responded to the original house fire call when it happened.

Everything still moves and it was well cared for before the fire. Came with the 3 jaw, 4 jaw, live center and a chuck (may not be salvageable). Some rust doctor, wiring, lube, and paint should have it up and running again soon. I will probably need a fair amount of help along the way so I figured joining here would be a great resource.


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## cathead (Feb 9, 2021)

It looks pretty good meaning not all burned up at least.  Good luck with your
project.  I'm sure it will work out fine for you.


Welcome to HM!


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## FOMOGO (Feb 9, 2021)

Welcome aboard. Definitely looks salvageable. Refurbishing a machine is certainly a great way to become intimately aware it's operation, and capabilities. Cheers, Mike


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## mattthemuppet2 (Feb 9, 2021)

any idea how hot it got? Hot enough to melt anything plastic? If not then you're probably fine, but if so then seals and probably bearings will need to be replaced.


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## Shawnson (Feb 9, 2021)

mattthemuppet2 said:


> any idea how hot it got? Hot enough to melt anything plastic? If not then you're probably fine, but if so then seals and probably bearings will need to be replaced.


It didn't "melt" the front control buttons but it did get hot enough for them to distort to the point they need to be replaced. The hottest area as you can see in the picture was the backside of the chip guard (right next to the electrical control box). Nothing inside the box even looks like it got warm. I am running wire for the outlet for testing. If it ends up needing a motor then so be it.


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## markba633csi (Feb 9, 2021)

Great deal- nobody got hurt in the fire I trust?  The wiring might be melted but that can be dealt with. Hopefully the motor is OK
-Mark


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## Shawnson (Feb 9, 2021)

markba633csi said:


> Great deal- nobody got hurt I trust?  The wiring might be melted but that can be dealt with.
> -Mark


No, everyone got out okay but the house and the shop were a total loss.


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## markba633csi (Feb 9, 2021)

I wouldn't be surprised if it fires (bad pun) right up


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## macardoso (Feb 9, 2021)

Really doesn't look bad. Maybe the only concern would be the motor which is in back where you said it saw the most heat. There is oil/grease, plastics, etc. in there.


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## silence dogood (Feb 9, 2021)

I've done electronic repair for years. Once in a while I came across something that was in a fire.  Check the insulation on the wires.  If the wires show any brown or black, the check for brittleness.  I'd replace.  Do a slight pull on the wire connectors to make sure that they have not got loose.  Just cut off and replace.  Having a can of CRC contact cleaner can help.  As for the motor, keep and eye on it and hope for the best.  Good luck and give us progress reports.


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## Aukai (Feb 9, 2021)

I also hope it did not get a straight stream hose down.


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## Shawnson (Feb 9, 2021)

Update.

Making some progress. I got a lot taken apart and cleaned. I soaked anything I could fit in the buck of Evaporust. I laid paper towels soaked in Evaporust on the ways and anything else I shouldn't fit in the bucket. Ordered some replacement switches and a few other misc parts from Grizzly. Power has been run and I replaced the power cord into the electrical box (it was a bit crispy). but I grabbed the wrong plug for the power cable so it will have to wait a little bit longer.


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## brino (Feb 9, 2021)

Great progress!

-brino


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## Ken226 (Feb 9, 2021)

I recognize it from your post on "the hide".  Looking good.  

Look over the contactors and breakers in the electrical box on the back of the lathe.  There are lots of plastic electrical parts in there.  A whole lot more than the front panel, and they all gotta work too.

Also, the forward reverse switch actuated by the apron power lever has a set of plastic contacts.    It's the box attached to the bottom of the gearbox.   The bottom rod,  below your leadscrew and powerfeed rod controls the contactors inside it.


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## Shawnson (Feb 9, 2021)

Ken226 said:


> I recognize it from your post on "the hide".  Looking good.
> 
> Look over the contactors and breakers in the electrical box on the back of the lathe.  There are lots of plastic electrical parts in there.  A whole lot more than the front panel, and they all gotta work too.
> 
> Also, the forward reverse switch actuated by the apron power lever has a set of plastic contacts.    It's the box attached to the bottom of the gearbox.   The bottom rod,  below your leadscrew and powerfeed rod controls the contactors inside it.


I figured sharing here would be a bit more useful when it comes to having questions answered vs the hide.


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## Shawnson (Feb 9, 2021)

Speaking of questions...

I have been using the Grizzley manual because it seems to be a little better quality than the others. However, I am struggling with something.

The Grizzley manual shows a sight glass for the oil level on the carriage but mine does not have one. I need to know how much to put in after draining but nowhere can I find a listed quantity for the carriage. Does anybody know?


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## Ken226 (Feb 9, 2021)

Shawnson said:


> Speaking of questions...
> 
> I have been using the Grizzley manual because it seems to be a little better quality than the others. However, I am struggling with something.
> 
> The Grizzley manual shows a sight glass for the oil level on the carriage but mine does not have one. I need to know how much to put in after draining but nowhere can I find a listed quantity for the carriage. Does anybody know?



Precision Mathews sells a very similar model.   Appears almost identical except that it is a newer model and has a different quick change gearbox.

They list it's apron oil capacity as 1/2 quart.

From the PM1236 manual:




precisionmatthews.com › PM...PDF
Model PM-1236 Lathe - Precision Matthews


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## Ken226 (Feb 9, 2021)

Also, Shop Fox sold the same model as yours (the m1112).

The shop Fox manual:


			https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.northerntool.com/images/downloads/manuals/426420.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj0y5XZ993uAhUDpp4KHRjlD8wQFjADegQIGBAB&usg=AOvVaw0la5BHk2-PpM1T_tS3Xogp
		


The Precision Mathews PM-1236 manual:


			https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.precisionmatthews.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/PM-1236-v4-1-2017-indd.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj0y5XZ993uAhUDpp4KHRjlD8wQFjAEegQICxAB&usg=AOvVaw37uodxFCWiP0B4yC7avOsR
		


Adding a sight glass is a common mod.  I added one to the 12x36 I used to own.  Actually, 2.  Mine needed one on the headstock too.    Had a forum member measure the location relative to the lower right corner of the apron.   Drilled and tapped a hole with a 1/2  npt pipe thread tap, and used a 7$ sight glass from Amazon




			https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K8BJ2YL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_8QM4MVXZBJGV72GV5EPH


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## Shawnson (Feb 9, 2021)

That is awesome. Thank you very much for that. 1/2 quart and a sight glass mod it is then. Fortunately my headstock has a sight glass already.


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## markba633csi (Feb 9, 2021)

Well, if it didn't have flame hardened ways you have 'em now!  heh  
-M


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## Shootymacshootface (Feb 9, 2021)

Nice score, that should be a sweet machine when you are done. 
I know that springs don't do well in a fire. Fortunately there aren't many on a lathe.
 Just something to look out for.


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## Ken226 (Feb 9, 2021)

Shootymacshootface said:


> Nice score, that should be a sweet machine when you are done.
> I know that springs don't do well in a fire. Fortunately there aren't many on a lathe.
> Just something to look out for.



Very good point I hadn't considered.

The 3 springs in the spindle that hold the d1-4 cam detents in the cam grooves would be very important.

I actually just replaced the springs, and detents both on my Birmingham 13x40, with parts from the grizzly g4002 manual. Ordered for $9 from grizzly.  Mine had lost the clicky feel. The springs were smooshed.

If one of those fail!  A d1-4 cam pin on a ballistic trajectory that happens to intersect with a cabeza could create some excitement in the shop.   And perhaps the need of a band-aid.

That would leave a pop-knot on the nugget, big enough for a calf to suck on!


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## Shawnson (Feb 10, 2021)

More progress.

Got everything put back together. I don't like how far the gib on the compound is sticking out. I only have about 2 threads engaged on the rear screw adjustment and it seems too tight.

Now for the exciting news. It powers on and runs fine. I only ran it for about a minute because I have not changed the fluids yet. All of the power feeds run in all directions as well. The motor may still fail in the future or even the near future but I can deal with that if and when it happens. I think if it does, I may do a VFD conversion instead of just replacing it. Spindle seems to have right at or maybe just a bit less than .001 runout from what I measure but I don't have a tenths indicator.

You can see the stick out of the gib screw here. Any thoughts on this?
Kinda sucks the angle markings on the compound wiped right off when I was cleaning. I may have to laser engrave a new plate and mount it on there.











The Evaporust left a little black discoloration on the ways but the rust is gone and they are smooth as glass to the touch.


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## Shawnson (Feb 10, 2021)

BTW
Evaportust Gel is absolute garbage. Leaves a sticky, chalky, bubblegum residue on everything and it is a pain in the butt to clean off. The soaked paper towels work WAY nicer.


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## Ken226 (Feb 10, 2021)

The length of gibs can be adjusted with a few bandsaw cuts if needed.

Adjust the gib first to the correct amount of tightness first, then decide if/ how much it needs shortened.    You can take off enough to get rid of the protrusion, while leaving enough to accommodate future wear.

And if that happens to be the small end of the gib, even better.  Won't effect future adjustments unless they invent a way lube that allows for negative wear.

From your pics, it looks like the compound rest gib is sticking out.  The cross slide, not so much.

BTW, those chinese toolholder/knurling combo tools suck sooo bad.  Every one ive used had so much runout in the knurling wheels that I could see my whole compound flexing in rythm to the spindle.    If you plan do do even occasional knurling, get a new scissor type tool, then immediately discard the import knurls and buy some US Made Reed or AccuTrak knurls on ebay.


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## Shawnson (Feb 10, 2021)

Ken226 said:


> The length of gibs can be adjusted with a few bandsaw cuts if needed.
> 
> Adjust the gib first to the correct amount of tightness first, then decide if/ how much it needs shortened.    You can take off enough to get rid of the protrusion, while leaving enough to accommodate future wear.
> 
> ...


The protruding end is the large end of the gib. I said cross slide in the first part but I meant compound. Thanks for pointing that out.


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## Ken226 (Feb 10, 2021)

So, is this lathe getting some new paint?

After some sanding,  It would look pretty great in a couple coats of something like this:


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## Aukai (Feb 10, 2021)

Pretty good return on investment you got there.  Maybe we should alert the arson investigation team


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## Shawnson (Feb 10, 2021)

Ken226 said:


> So, is this lathe getting some new paint?
> 
> After some sanding,  It would look pretty great in a couple coats of something like this:



I am on the fence with this idea. While I really do want to paint it I know the prep work that will go into it to make it look the way I want is going to be quite involved. I could probably get it most of the way there with taping parts off and hitting it with a brush but it won't be right. Everything on this thing has oil and contamination. I am afraid if I half-ass it, it's just gonna flake and peal.


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## Ken226 (Feb 10, 2021)

Shawnson said:


> I am on the fence with this idea. While I really do want to paint it I know the prep work that will go into it to make it look the way I want is going to be quite involved. I could probably get it most of the way there with taping parts off and hitting it with a brush but it won't be right. Everything on this thing has oil and contamination. I am afraid if I half-ass it, it's just gonna flake and peal.



If you do decide to go all-out,   it looks like you can even get the cosmetic stuff from grizzly.

For example, grizzly shows the headstock front panel in-stock part#  P40021103,  for about 40$.   Of course, I can't be certain it's a perfect fit.

Edited to add:

Sorry, p40021103 is for the older g4002.

P40031103 is for the G4003 12x36 lathe.  Looks like an even closer match.
https://www.grizzly.com/parts/grizzly-name-plate/p40031103


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## aliva (Feb 10, 2021)

That looks identical to my King Canada 12x36. Here's the manuals



			http://files.kingcanada.com/catalog/products/servicemanualxm/KC-1236ML%20service%20manual.pdf
		



			http://files.kingcanada.com/catalog/products/instructionmanualxm/KC-1236ML%20manual-eng.pdf


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## Shawnson (Feb 14, 2021)

The first chips were made last night.


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## Ken226 (Feb 14, 2021)

Very nice!   Make anything cool?, Or just chips?

Here's an idea for a first project.  @slodat  made a lever to replace the nut on his toolpost.  

I made mine around 10 years ago.  It's one of those little conveniences, that once you've had, you'll never be without again. Kinda like owning a lathe 









						First lathe project: QCTP lock nut lever handle
					

Started on my first lathe project last night. Not sure exactly what to call it... I’m making a lever handled nut for the top of the quick change tool post. It replaces the nut on top with a lever similar to the one already there for the wedge.     This is an example of what I’m making.     I cut...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


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## macardoso (Feb 14, 2021)

Shawnson said:


> The first chips were made last night.


Pics or it didn’t happen


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## 7milesup (Feb 14, 2021)

Dodge Destroyer Gray or Massey Furgeson gray are some of my favorite gray colors.


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## Ken226 (Feb 14, 2021)

7milesup said:


> Dodge Destroyer Gray or Massey Furgeson gray are some of my favorite gray colors.



My lathe's base pedestals, chip pan, drawer and center panel have been at APC powder coating in Bellingham for 4 weeks getting some Cardinal Gray powder coat.   

Last I talked to them, they have it blasted and coated with zinc epoxy primer powder.  I should have it back this week.


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## Shawnson (Feb 14, 2021)

Ken226 said:


> Very nice!   Make anything cool?, Or just chips?
> 
> Here's an idea for a first project.  @slodat  made a lever to replace the nut on his toolpost.
> 
> ...


 Nothing cool. Just grabbed an old 3/4 socket and did some turning and facing. Need to build up some tooling. I have a few HSS blanks I salvaged from my Gradpa's shop but I need to actually grind them into something useful.


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## Shawnson (Feb 14, 2021)

Ken226 said:


> My lathe's base pedestals, chip pan, drawer and center panel have been at APC powder coating in Bellingham for 4 weeks getting some Cardinal Gray powder coat.
> 
> Last I talked to them, they have it blasted and coated with zinc epoxy primer powder.  I should have it back this week.


I have similar taste. My F-150 is the same Gray color.


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## Dabbler (Feb 14, 2021)

Really nice work  on this lathe! 

Back when I only had a small lathe, I almost got a fire damaged lathe from a friend, but the insurance company insisted on picking it up and taking it to the metal recycler.  The replacement cost on the lathe was 15K$, so they wanted to ensure the old one was gone.  

Even if your bearings are a little damaged or out, you can still use it to good effect until you want to fork out the $ for their replacements!

Nice work all around!


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