# Franko's Hf Engine Hoist Mod



## Franko

Every time I've needed to use my HF engine hoist, the support feet weren't wide enough for the task. I decided to make new support feet that would be wide enough to fit around the stands I have my equipment on.




First the plan. I decided on Z legs that would provide a little more then 32" clearance between them.
For the center of the Z, I opted for schedule 40 2.5" pipe with 3/6" wall. I thought the round tube would be less prone to torque than square tube, though a bit more work.
The wheels of the arms will line up pretty close to the original wheel position, as shown with the dotted lines. I was concerned they might want to twist with a load on them. Since they line up, I don't think that will be a problem. If it is, I'll run something across them through the tube. It will have to be removable, as they won't fold up with it in place.
The rest is made with the stock tubing.




First, I marked the cuts on the stock tubing. I used a ruler with the legs mounted.
This pic was posed after the fact. I wedged the legs in the slot to keep them parallel to the angle.




With the legs marked, I made some wooden wedges to hold them in the correct angle in my horizontal band saw. I didn't want to turn the clamp because it is a pain to get it perfectly square again.




To mark the birds mouth notches in the square tube, I cut a 1" section of the pipe for a guide and clamped a straight edge to draw the cutouts for the 8 cuts.




I'll cut birds mouths with my plasma torch. I measured the distance from the edge of the nozzle (3/16") and cut some circles 3/16" larger than the tube in 1/2" MDF for torch guides. That thickness guide holds my nozzle about 1/16" up from the cut, which is perfect. Two circles made 4 guides, in case I burned some up.




After cutting them in half, making guide lines and marking the pieces, I clamped them up for cutting.




I clamped two pieces at a time for cutting the birds mouths.
None of my guides burned up. A little dross and some paint to grind off.




After all the notches were cut, I layed everything out to check to see if they would work.
Everything looks good. Ready to weld!




That's enough for now. I'm half done with the welding. To be continued...


----------



## Ulma Doctor

I LIKE IT!!!
great modification!


----------



## JimDawson

Never thought of using MDF for a torch guide.  Looks like it held up very well!


----------



## brav65

Nice work Franko.  I will keep this in mind for my lift.  I have been pondering a design that would allow for adjusting the legs. I was thinking about a protractor type arrangement with a pin to lock the leg in place.


----------



## Franko

JimDawson said:


> Never thought of using MDF for a torch guide.  Looks like it held up very well!



Oh yeah, it works great, Jim. I've made all kinds of torch guides with MDF and 1/2 plywood, from straight edges to small circles for neat holes to run conduit on my utility trailer, and big radiuses to make a filler mud stop for my trailer fenders.

For my plasma torch, 1/2" holds the tip up from the cut surface 1/16". It seems to cut better held off some.


----------



## Franko

brav65 said:


> Nice work Franko.  I will keep this in mind for my lift.  I have been pondering a design that would allow for adjusting the legs. I was thinking about a protractor type arrangement with a pin to lock the leg in place.



I doubt anyone who's ever used one of them for anything but installing an engine hasn't thought of modifying it, whilst muttering dirty words. I thought about it for months and decided this simple solution would work for my needs.

I considered using nesting tube to make the legs width adjustable, but it's made with metric square tube, which is stupendously expensive in my neck of the woods, and it would have to be DOM tube and still be unlikely to have a close enough fit.


----------



## bpratl

Franko said:


> Oh yeah, it works great, Jim. I've made all kinds of torch guides with MDF and 1/2 plywood, from straight edges to small circles for neat holes to run conduit on my utility trailer, and big radiuses to make a filler mud stop for my trailer fenders.
> For my plasma torch, 1/2" holds the tip up from the cut surface 1/16". It seems to cut better held off some.


Franko, great idea in using MDF as a guide. I purchased a plasma cutter last year and now I have a new method for cutting intrigue parts. Thanks. Bob


----------



## Franko

This morning I finished the welding.
The long legs were clamped with a long pipe clamp and tacked.




A slightly different set-up to clamp the short pieces. I used one of the wood wedges I made to cut them to give flat purchase for the clamp.




After tacking, I MIG welded everything. The welds came out ok for me.
I'm pretty happy with the fillet weld on the right. They aren't my forte.





As an experiment, I tried out the non-automatic helmet. I was supposed to be able to see better with.
As you can see, I couldn't see anything and totally missed the joint and had to make another pass.
I cleverly did this on the bottom where it won't be seen.




I installed the legs to see if they work. It seems to be okie dokie. Nothing left to do but paint them.




Here it is with the legs in the stowed position.
Oops. The bad weld is showing. Looks like I'll have to grind some before painting.




Phase one of the hoist mod is done but for the painting.
Phase two will be a knob for the jack screw. To be continued...


----------



## planeflyer21

Looking good!


----------



## Ed ke6bnl

That is on my todo list sooner than later.   I can't lift machinery with the silly V shape. Very nicely done.


----------



## Ed ke6bnl

I tacked on a small 3/8 socket to the jack and use a ratchet with a handle long enough to control the lowering.


----------



## jeff_g1137

Hi
Are you going to do a Max test lift on it


----------



## Bill C.

Looks good, consider spraying a little paint inside the tubes or adding caps to the end of them.


----------



## Franko

Ed ke6bnl said:


> I tacked on a small 3/8 socket to the jack and use a ratchet with a handle long enough to control the lowering.



Not a bad idea, Ed. I'd be concerned with ruining a seal welding on that stub. The plan is just a knob that I can use on both my shop press and the hoist. I saw a cool one that was made with a round faucet handle.



jeff_g1137 said:


> Hi
> Are you going to do a Max test lift on it



Jeff, I don't have anything heavy enough to do a max lift test. I'm pretty confident with the welding, and each one is welded on all 4 sides. I put my weight on the hook and didn't see any movement or torquing to cause concern.



Bill C. said:


> Looks good, consider spraying a little paint inside the tubes or adding caps to the end of them.



Ed, the schedule 40 tube is painted (or whatever that black coating is) on the inside. I sprayed in as far as it would go when I painted the cut ends.


----------



## Franko

Phase 2 is done (I hope). We'll see how the brass holds up.

I used an old chem lab faucet stem from my plumbing scraps. I cut off the washer part and trimmed down the water flow adjusting threads. Then, drilled a hole and milled some slots.

My jack valve wrench. Cost, $0. It took about an hour to make.
It seems to work well.


----------



## Ed ke6bnl

Fancy, good job


----------



## hman

Fantastic!!!


----------



## Franko

Thanks, Ed, John.
And, thanks to all who've looked, liked and commented.

I'm not sure what phase 3 will be. Probably some sort of organizer to keep my lifting straps and 800# ratcheting tie down that I use to balance the loads. Maybe a waterproof stuff sack and hanging hardware. And probably a stowage hook or ring for the pump valve wrench.

I have an idea for more compact long-term stowage, using a couple big hooks to hang the legs more compactly against the boom.


----------



## Firestopper

Nice work Franko!


----------



## Whyemier

Nice work.  Now I have something else to aspire to.  Man You guys comeup with ideas I gotta do  but don't have time to. Dang!


----------



## hman

Franko said:


> I'm not sure what phase 3 will be.


Here are a couple changes I made to my own engine hoist.  The first is very simple - spray paint white around the holes in the arm, so they're easier to see and align with the "master" hole:


Secondly, find a good, forged eyebolt and install it in the end of the arm opposite the chain.  This is handy if you need just a skosh more height.  I added a chunk of ¼" steel below the nut to spread the load a bit.  Cross drill the end of the stud and add some kind of safety wire or clip, so it won't unscrew.  Flip the arm as needed to use one or the other.


----------



## Franko

I like that, John. I just shortened the chain and hook to two links on mine. I like the eye-bolt because you can rotate it to adjust the alignment on what you are lifting.


----------



## markknx

Franko Nice work on the hoist. Great Idea just be careful on heavy picks as now you have added a twist factor to the load on the support feet. probably not an issue just thought I would throw it in there.


----------



## Franko

markknx said:


> Franko Nice work on the hoist. Great Idea just be careful on heavy picks as now you have added a twist factor to the load on the support feet. probably not an issue just thought I would throw it in there.



There doesn't seem to be much twist, Mark. I was concerned about that. The geometry is pretty close to stock. The wheels are just a couple inches wider than the line from the angled mounts. I'll be watching that the next heavy thing I lift. If they seem to be twisting, I can clamp a bar across the legs either through or under the tube section of the legs. I left them open for just that eventuality.


----------



## AirWolf

Really a great idea!! I am envious of all you guys that do such wonderful fabrication jobs. I'm just a beginner in this hobby but hopefully someday will be able to do just a bit of what you guys seem to do so easily. 

I do download all your photos so please keep them coming on all your projects!


----------



## Pontiac Freak

My suggestion would to add a air jack.  I added one to mine years ago and have worn out 2 sets of casters on it since I use it so much!  http://www.harborfreight.com/8-ton-long-ram-air-hydraulic-jack-94562.html


----------



## zmotorsports

Nice job Franko.  It turned out great and well thought out.

Mike.


----------



## sanddan

hman,

Be very carefull with your eye bolt mod as that is much less strong than the factory design. The load is only supported by the lower face of the tube, about 1/8" thick material, and could tear out with enough load. The cracks would start at the tube opening at each lower corner and then follow the corners. With the factory design the bolt is in double shear, which is good, and is supported by both sides of the tube. Any failure (other than the bolt or chain) would require the bolt to tear through the tube in the middle of that section. I have this same hoist and I have seen the lift arm flex under load enough to see a curve in it. The eye bolt mod should work fine for a few hundred lbs but not for the rated load. I will be using mine to remove the motor on my mill and I plan on adding an extension tube to the lift arm to increase the lift height but the motor is under 100 lbs so not too concerned. Capping the end of the tube would add strength but it still would not be as strong. It all depends on what you are lifting.

Dan


----------



## Franko

Pontiac Freak said:


> My suggestion would to add a air jack.  I added one to mine years ago and have worn out 2 sets of casters on it since I use it so much!  http://www.harborfreight.com/8-ton-long-ram-air-hydraulic-jack-94562.html



I don't expect to use the hoist very often, Pontiac Freak. It it were something I use more than once a month, I might consider it. The longest jack is from folded to up. I can just pull it by hand to about perpendicular.



zmotorsports said:


> Nice job Franko.  It turned out great and well thought out.
> Mike.



Thanks, Mike


----------



## hman

sanddan said:


> hman,
> 
> Be very carefull with your eye bolt mod as that is much less strong than the factory design. The load is only supported by the lower face of the tube, about 1/8" thick material, and could tear out with enough load. The cracks would start at the tube opening at each lower corner and then follow the corners. With the factory design the bolt is in double shear, which is good, and is supported by both sides of the tube. Any failure (other than the bolt or chain) would require the bolt to tear through the tube in the middle of that section. I have this same hoist and I have seen the lift arm flex under load enough to see a curve in it. The eye bolt mod should work fine for a few hundred lbs but not for the rated load. I will be using mine to remove the motor on my mill and I plan on adding an extension tube to the lift arm to increase the lift height but the motor is under 100 lbs so not too concerned. Capping the end of the tube would add strength but it still would not be as strong. It all depends on what you are lifting.
> 
> Dan



Thanks, Dan.  Hadn't thought of that aspect of the design.  Fortunately, I'm extremely conservative in my use of the hoist - NEVER had anything bend!  But I'll continue to keep an eye on the end of the arm.


----------



## markknx

One more thought on eye bolts, they hate side loads. By that I mean the load rating drops quick as the load added moves out of line with the eye bolt. Yes I do not seem using this hoist to drag much in a side load (front, back or side). However as the lift arm lifts the load shifts to the back of the bolt. These drops in load rating can be fond in charts from the manufacture and probably generic charts. As long as you stay within those ranges you should be fine. As far as the tube ripping that can be solved by adding a sleeve to the end of the tube (inside or out)
Mark


----------



## Primitive_Pete

Having moved the mill around the shop with m hf lift I can tell it sux on so many levels your mod is a great improvement. Nested toobs would've been a great option.


----------



## Franko

Primitive_Pete said:


> Having moved the mill around the shop with m hf lift I can tell it six on so many levels your mod is a great improvement. Nested toobs would've been a great option.



Thanks, Pete. The choice not to use nested tubes was economic. I opted to re-purpose the existing legs. The cat. 40 pipe was the only thing I could find that would fit and was affordable.

As I mentioned earlier, the tubing this hoist is made of is metric, which is stupendously expensive in these parts.


----------



## Bamban

Franko,

With the wider stance is there enough boom extension and load capacity to pick up a Bridgeport a few inches, enough to slide Unisorb  leveling pads in?

Nice work, btw.

Thank you.


----------



## Franko

Bamban, there is about 32" between the legs. The legs extend about 16" beyond the longest extension of the boom. At that extension, it is rated at 500 pounds. I don't know the dimensions of a Bridgeport mill.

My mill base is high enough off the floor that I can use a floor jack to make foot adjustments on my Carrymasters.

If you can't get a hoist over the mill, you might try a crowbar and cribbing to tilt it back enough to install the leveling feet.


----------



## markknx

Yes on the crow bar. another way would be wedges. I love wedges for short lifts.


----------



## Primitive_Pete

Franko said:


> Thanks, Pete. The choice not to use nested tubes was economic. I opted to re-purpose the existing legs. The cat. 40 pipe was the only thing I could find that would fit and was affordable.
> 
> As I mentioned earlier, the tubing this hoist is made of is metric, which is stupendously expensive in these parts.


yeah it is here too, as is everything else... I was lamenting the fact that the price of metric tubes wouldn't be worth effort. I hadn't even thought about them being metric.


----------



## Franko

Pete, I have cogitated about a way to reduce the size (footpring) of the hoist when stored, which it is, most of the time. If I wanted to reduce the width, I could make some hangers to mount on the boom support. The legs could be detached from the chanels and hung on those hangers.

Or, I could drill pivot holes perpendicular to the existing pivot holes and fold them up with the zig zag front to back, decreasing the width.


----------



## Primitive_Pete

Frank what about add in plates to the smaller tube to build size match the hole. It needed not be perfect .


----------



## Franko

I thought of that, but the better solution was to widen the stance of the legs.


----------



## Bamban

Franko,

Thank you.


----------



## kingmt01

Wow this looks good. I use mine for other purposes then intended also. One of these days I might get around to coping this idea.


----------



## Franko

Thanks, Kingmt.


----------



## StevSmar

Nice modifications to the engine hoist! It will make it a lot easier for moving machinery with.


----------



## epanzella

Thanks Franko, that's a great mod. I just modified my hoist for more capacity to pick my mill up high enough to get it on the table but those legs get in the way.   They prevent me from putting the mill in the center of the table no matter what I do.  I hope you don't mind if I copy your idea, it's a perfect solution.


----------



## Franko

Thanks, epanzella. Feel free to copy and improve.


----------



## epanzella

Franko said:


> Thanks, epanzella. Feel free to copy and improve.


Thanks for sharing. I'll do pretty much the same thing you did but since I have a bunch of 3" x 3" x 3/16" angle on hand I'll weld it into a square tube and use that instead of the round.


----------



## epanzella

Got the welding done today. I started to TIG it for neatness but I'm too slow with that thing. Out came the stick welder and full speed ahead! Welding the angle together to make a tube worked out fine. All that's left is a spritz of paint and it's Mill(er) time! Thanks again for sharing Franko!


----------



## epanzella

BTW this is the mill table I couldn't get the legs around so Franko's idea came along at the perfect time. I had the Harbor Freight 1 ton model hoist and to clear my mill table I needed the boom extended all the way but then the capacity is only 500 lbs and the  mill weighs at least  few hundred more than that. I took my dial calipers and tape measure to HF to check out the differences on the 2 ton model. The only differences  were that the outer boom was 6 inches longer to leave less of the inner boom unsupported and of course it used an 8 ton jack insted of the 3 ton jack.  I extended the outer boom along with the support bridge and changed out the jack with the OEM part# from the 2 ton model.


----------



## Franko

Looks good, epanzella. Happy lifting.


----------



## Just for fun

Franko said:


> This morning I finished the welding.
> The long legs were clamped with a long pipe clamp and tacked.
> 
> View attachment 113271
> 
> 
> A slightly different set-up to clamp the short pieces. I used one of the wood wedges I made to cut them to give flat purchase for the clamp.
> 
> View attachment 113272
> 
> 
> After tacking, I MIG welded everything. The welds came out ok for me.
> I'm pretty happy with the fillet weld on the right. They aren't my forte.
> 
> View attachment 113273
> View attachment 113274
> 
> 
> As an experiment, I tried out the non-automatic helmet. I was supposed to be able to see better with.
> As you can see, I couldn't see anything and totally missed the joint and had to make another pass.
> I cleverly did this on the bottom where it won't be seen.
> 
> View attachment 113275
> 
> 
> I installed the legs to see if they work. It seems to be okie dokie. Nothing left to do but paint them.
> 
> View attachment 113276
> 
> 
> Here it is with the legs in the stowed position.
> Oops. The bad weld is showing. Looks like I'll have to grind some before painting.
> 
> View attachment 113277
> 
> 
> Phase one of the hoist mod is done but for the painting.
> Phase two will be a knob for the jack screw. To be continued...



Good looking modification Franko!  So after 5 years how's it holding up?  I see there has been some concern about sturdiness.  I wonder if adding another set of casters on the legs just in front of the pipes/extensions would add to the strength.


----------



## Tmate

I have a Bluebird 1,200 lb hoist with a very long boom and only one hook position.  The legs of the hoist are straight and 37" apart on the inside.
The only problem with lifting my incoming 2,000 lb Bridgeport mill off the pallet is the lifting capacity.  The frame and boom are sufficiently sturdy (American made - 1/4" wall).

I made some calculations based on measurements of other hoists with multiple hook locations.  The amount of increase in lifting capacity from a relatively small decrease in boom length is remarkable.

If I move my hook location only 15" inward, the lifting capacity is theoretically tripled.   Although it has a 3 ton jack, it should be enough for 2,000 lbs.  I would through bolt a 5/8" industrial lifting eye to accommodate the hook.  I should still have enough height given the 99" maximum hook height with the stock configuration.

Is there anything I'm overlooking?


----------



## hman

PLEASE re-check your math.  If you get 3 tons (6000 lbs) at 13 3/4", by my calculation you'd get the following distance vs. capacity results:

13 3/4" (1 "distance unit") ... 6000/1 = 6000 lbs
27 1/2" (2 "distance units") ... 6000/2 = 3000 lbs
40 1/4" (3 "distance units") ... 6000/3 = 2000 lbs
54" (4 "distance units") ... 6000/4 = 1500 lbs

Be careful out there!!! (per the desk sergeant in Hill Street Blues)


----------



## Just for fun

I don't know if what your planning is a good idea.  Even if moving the hook back to gain some on the boom, the area I have circled doesn't look very strong.

Tim


----------



## wrat

Tmate said:


> If I move my hook location only 15" inward, the lifting capacity is theoretically tripled.


Uh, yeah, I'm not seeing that.  I'm seeing that to provide equivalent margin on a 2,000 pound load, you must move the hook in to the 27inch distance (27.528) from the cylinder attach - another 3 inches inward from what you're proposing.
And, even though this is basic static truss method, you'll notice the arm swings, but gravity never does.  So depending on the position of the arm, the exact loads will change, with the most egregious position being exactly horizontal, of course.
Now sure, if this is legit 1/4" wall thickness, you're probably just fine (assuming no heat damage and over-stress conditions in the life of this rental piece).
And that's just the main lifting arm.  Who knows about the hydraulics, eh?
Still, at the risk of being trodden on by the Safety Monitors, I might remind you if it says it's "1200 pound" rating, it means it can do that all day, every day, full travel, in any conditions and still be safe by a comfortable margin.
You, on the other hand, want to bring one machine to the ground at a speed less than a free fall.  The dynamics of that scenario may be complex, but in some quick calculations, I'd bet you'll do fine.
IOW, if you get the machine all harnessed up, and use this lift to raise it off the pallet, even a half inch; then pull the pallet out and lower the thing; you'll get away with it (not as now, but after moving the hook).  Even if you're lowering it onto 1 inch pipes to move it with, you're still talking what... 4 whole inches of descent?  No sweat.
Now, if you're taking this off the back of a truck, or maybe even a trailer, the price of a rented forklift might be cheap.  But off of a pallet already on the ground?  I think you got it.


----------



## Tmate

I didn't calculate the capacity figures.  I imported the above right photo into a cad program and measured the distances between the various attachment holes on the boom.  Any errors in the labeling of the different boom holes are replicated in my figures.

The photo of the Bluebird hoist is one I copied from the Internet.  My own hoist was new when I got it and has only been used a half dozen times, so wear/stress shouldn't be an issue.

I appreciate all your input.  I think I'll know if this will work by the time I lift the mill 1/2" or so.


----------



## epanzella

I aree with the concerns of JUST FOR FUN in post #54. I've never seen a hoist just rely on the torsional rigidity of a single cross piece. On my hoist the upright is supported in three places, two of them in tension. If you hoist looks like the one in the picture the circled area  is the weakest link and it should be reinforced.


----------



## wrat

epanzella said:


> If you hoist looks like the one in the picture the circled area  is the weakest link and it should be reinforced.


Alternately, if all you're gonna do is lift it up and set it down without a pallet underneath, and not move it around, you needn't fab and weld on your hoist.
You can just stick a couple of 2x4s under the joint in question and those blocks will transfer the load to the ground.  If it matters at all.

If you wish to suspend the machine and move it around with that hoist, I think all the concerns expressed thus far are entirely valid.


----------



## hman

wrat said:


> You can just stick a couple of 2x4s under the joint in question and those blocks will transfer the load to the ground.  If it matters at all.


I think the hazard with that joint is the torsion, not the straight downward force.  Just as a first approximation, assume the  hook is attached to the horizontal bar at the 48" point, or 4 ft.  With a load of 2000 lbs hanging from the hook, the torsion on the weld joint will be something like 4 * 2000  = 8000 foot lbs.  That's a scary large number to be held by just a couple of weld joints!

If you look at the picture, you'll see that where the legs attach to the lower cross bar, there are a couple of triangular gussets welded in ... and there are two such weldments, so each is carrying just half of the torsional load.  The joint at the mast does not appear to be reinforced at all.


----------



## Tmate

Here's a better view of the joint in question.


----------



## hman

Looks a lot better than it did in the earlier photos.  Just be safe!


----------



## wrat

hman said:


> With a load of 2000 lbs hanging from the hook, the torsion on the weld joint will be something like 4 * 2000  = 8000 foot lbs.  That's a scary large number to be held by just a couple of weld joints!


Hmm... not seeing it.
The arm and hydraulics are all suspended by pin joints, not welds.  So you really don't get to say something as simple as 8K ft-lbf moment and shiver in fear.  In fact, the arm will be pointed upward at a pretty steep angle, to get on top of the machine (and pallet) so you get to work up a full truss load diagram first, then declare reactions.  Which is also why I think just blocking the back end will far more than suffice if it's even needed at all.
And I'm taking at face value a 1/4" wall thickness on a 2" square tube which, while inefficient to be held in bending (or torsion), it will take a lot - I mean big scary numbers - well before failure.
My prediction is twofold:
1. The hydraulics will give out first if it's an overload condition.  Simply because in our litigious society, the tubing is doubtless over-engineered for all possible conditions.
2. In the time we discuss it, he'll probably already have it unloaded and wonder what all the hubbub is about.

Also wanna reiterate that this is for a one-off operation of raising maybe a half-inch and lowering the depth of a pallet after yanking the pallet, not moving the machine.  HUGE loads occur when a hoist like this starts moving across the floor.  Every crack in the concrete is a 2 or 3 g multiplier, which is what the original designers (and lawyers) already knew.  So for use as a general hoist, yes, I totally agree with you and everyone else about the myriad concerns.  No contest.  I'll be as scared as anyone.  But for this singular operation, I'm sure it'll not only go smooth, but if something starts getting wonky, he can abort the mission and just leave it on the pallet.
 .


----------



## Tmate

Now that I see the mill and my engine hoist side by side, there's no way I'm going to try to lift it with that hoist.  I guess I will have to get inventive with a toe jack, some blocks, and a reciprocal saw.


----------



## wrat

Tmate said:


> Now that I see the mill and my engine hoist side by side, there's no way I'm going to try to lift it with that hoist.  I guess I will have to get inventive with a toe jack, some blocks, and a reciprocal saw.



Smart thinking.  Good judgment.


----------



## hman

Hmmmm ... wild and crazy idea ...

Move the two cars away from the car hoist.  Raise it, empty, to about where it is now.  Lay a stout beam across it.  Use a pallet jack (or pipe rollers) to position the mill under the hoist.  Rig lifting slings.  Lift it just enough to hold the pallet above the floor.  Remove pallet.  Attach stout bars, equipped with adjustable feet, across the bottom of the mill.  Adjust the feet to raise the bars high enough for the pallet jack.  Set the mill on the ground.  Use the pallet jack to move the mill into position.  Lower the feet as much as possible while leveling the mill.

See post #51 at:   https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/base-feet-for-a-bridgeport.1362/page-6  That's how I did it on my knee mill. 
These are the leveling feet I bought:   https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/1560   Part number 6111K191


----------

