# Southbend 9A switch help needed.



## cederholm (Feb 27, 2018)

Hi guys, I'm in the final stages of restoring a 1945 Southbend 9A and my switch is missing the spring that hold the lever center when not in use. Can someone provide a few photos of what that spring looks like and how it attaches so I can make a new one?




Here are a few before and after pics - hope the purists don't freak on the color. 






Thanks for the help,
Carl


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## Ulma Doctor (Feb 27, 2018)

Hi Carl,
do you know the manufacturer of the switch?
I have a drum switch that is similar, i'll take some pictures after dinner and post them


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## cederholm (Feb 27, 2018)

Ulma Doctor said:


> Hi Carl,
> do you know the manufacturer of the switch?
> I have a drum switch that is similar, i'll take some pictures after dinner and post them



Hi, it’s a Lindell. Thanks for the help!

- Carl



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## Cooter Brown (Feb 27, 2018)

You need a volt meter.....


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## markba633csi (Feb 27, 2018)

Looks like a two piece affair like this:  detent arm and spring
Those contacts look pretty bad though, any plans to refurbish them? Might want to solder some strips of copper in the eroded areas


Mark


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## cederholm (Feb 27, 2018)

Cooter Brown said:


> You need a volt meter.....



I have a volt meter - how does that help a missing spring? 

The switch works fine, but the lever doesn’t snap in the off position when not in use. 


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## Cooter Brown (Feb 27, 2018)

cederholm said:


> I have a volt meter - how does that help a missing spring?
> 
> The switch works fine, but the lever doesn’t snap in the off position when not in use.
> 
> ...




and I need to learn how to read.......


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## cederholm (Feb 27, 2018)

markba633csi said:


> Looks like a two piece affair like this: detent arm and spring
> Those contacts look pretty bad though, any plans to refurbish them? Might want to solder some strips of copper in the eroded areas
> View attachment 260016
> 
> Mark



Thanks Mark, very helpful. And yeah, those contacts are pretty rough - your suggestion sounds like a good one.

- Carl


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## markba633csi (Feb 27, 2018)

Hi Carl, I would guess that motor is currently wired for 115 volts?  If the motor can run 230 volt I'd highly recommend it- runs cooler, more efficient, and the switch contacts last much longer (half the current) 
Mark


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## Ulma Doctor (Feb 27, 2018)

Hi Carl
sorry for the delay 
my drum switch is a cutler hammer- 



i don't know if the images will help,  but here they are


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## Ulma Doctor (Feb 27, 2018)

it appears that you have a small lug on the left side of your drum switch.
it may have been used to anchor a spring

that switch has had (tens of ) thousands of throws and still functions.
they just don't make quality like that anymore


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## cederholm (Feb 28, 2018)

markba633csi said:


> Hi Carl, I would guess that motor is currently wired for 115 volts? If the motor can run 230 volt I'd highly recommend it- runs cooler, more efficient, and the switch contacts last much longer (half the current)
> Mark



Hi Mark,

I need to look at the plate on the motor. It’s a old tank of a GE motor. If it can handle 230v would it be wired the same as 115? And yes, it is 115v now.

Also, to your previous post, what shape were those conductors originally? If I’m going to solder some copper on I’d like to match the original. 

Thanks!



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## cederholm (Feb 28, 2018)

Ulma Doctor said:


> Hi Carl
> sorry for the delay
> my drum switch is a cutler hammer-
> View attachment 260025
> ...



It should be very helpful - thank you for posting!

- Carl


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## cederholm (Feb 28, 2018)

Cooter Brown said:


> cederholm said:
> 
> 
> > I have a volt meter - how does that help a missing spring?
> ...



I’m often guilty of the same thing! Thought I missed something...

Cheers,
Carl


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## BROCKWOOD (Feb 28, 2018)

The green circles indicate where a spring could be mounted to keep the handle in neutral. The blue circle points out a cam position / detent that would also aid in a positive neutral resting place - if only a cam follower were present. I take it this is a reversing switch?


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## cederholm (Feb 28, 2018)

BROCKWOOD said:


> The green circles indicate where a spring could be mounted to keep the handle in neutral. The blue circle points out a cam position / detent that would also aid in a positive neutral resting place - if only a cam follower were present. I take it this is a reversing switch?



You pics don’t appear for me - I hope it’s just my phone and will look on the computer when I get home tonight. 

Yes, it is a reversing switch.

Thanks
Carl


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## jakes_66 (Feb 28, 2018)

It looks like you're missing some parts of the detent mechanism in addition to the spring.  Here are some photos I found, very similar to those I've seen before.  Hope these help:

The detent bracket with roller:



The detent spring:



This switch might not be the same exact model as yours, but should give you an idea of how they commonly work.


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## markba633csi (Feb 28, 2018)

Hi Carl, there are some differences when wiring for 230 volts, we can help you with that if you decide to
Post a pic of the motor nameplate if possible
Mark


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## brino (Feb 28, 2018)

cederholm said:


> Here are a few before and after pics - hope the purists don't freak on the color.



I think that cream colour look very sharp! Nice job.
-brino


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 28, 2018)

I'm with Brino, i like the color. If it was me and looking at the condition of that switch I would replace it, my 10L also has the cutter hammer switch.


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## cederholm (Feb 28, 2018)

markba633csi said:


> Hi Carl, there are some differences when wiring for 230 volts, we can help you with that if you decide to
> Post a pic of the motor nameplate if possible
> Mark



Okay, here is the plate Mark.


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## cederholm (Feb 28, 2018)

Okay, now that I'm home and can see these pics I get what you guys are saying - very very helpful! Looks like I need to build a cam follower. 

I'll keep you guys posted!

Thanks all,
 Carl




BROCKWOOD said:


> The green circles indicate where a spring could be mounted to keep the handle in neutral. The blue circle points out a cam position / detent that would also aid in a positive neutral resting place - if only a cam follower were present. I take it this is a reversing switch?





jakes_66 said:


> It looks like you're missing some parts of the detent mechanism in addition to the spring.  Here are some photos I found, very similar to those I've seen before.  Hope these help:
> 
> The detent bracket with roller:
> View attachment 260065
> ...


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## woodchucker (Feb 28, 2018)

That motor only has a 115 v rating. But do you see a wiring diagram on the end plate under a cover or the box?
if may show that it can be wired for 220.
My 9A is wired for 115 and is fine. 220 is cooler running and less amps, but if it can't be don't sweat it.


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## ericc (Feb 28, 2018)

Here's a picture which will suggest a way to refurbish your contacts.  It worked for me.
Uh-oh, attachment is not working.


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## markba633csi (Feb 28, 2018)

Looks like your motor is 115v only Carl.  
I've seen other South Bend lathes with 115 volt only GE motors, original equipment for sure
Mark


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## cederholm (Mar 1, 2018)

ericc said:


> Here's a picture which will suggest a way to refurbish your contacts. It worked for me.
> Uh-oh, attachment is not working.



Hi Eric, if you’re still having trouble posting your pic would you mind emailing it to me? Very interested. Please send it to carl (at) cederholminc (dot) com

Please disregard if you did manage to post and I’m not seeing it on my phone. 

Thanks,
Carl


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## cederholm (Mar 1, 2018)

woodchucker said:


> That motor only has a 115 v rating. But do you see a wiring diagram on the end plate under a cover or the box?
> if may show that it can be wired for 220.
> My 9A is wired for 115 and is fine. 220 is cooler running and less amps, but if it can't be don't sweat it.



I’ll look, thanks for the advice!

Thanks,
Carl


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## cederholm (Mar 1, 2018)

markba633csi said:


> Looks like your motor is 115v only Carl.
> I've seen other South Bend lathes with 115 volt only GE motors, original equipment for sure
> Mark



I love that it’s original and the build quality is fantastic. It weighs a ton, but oh well.

Speaking of original, did Southbend sell wooden benches with their lathes as on option? Under the horrible, sloppy green paint job (which was done by a drunk monkey on morphine) I found the original gray paint. Both the lathe and bench were painted with the same grey.


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## ericc (Mar 1, 2018)

Hi.  It seems that my browser was flaky.  Here is the picture on the anvil of my vise.  I hope it is self explanatory.  That is a piece of junk copper tube which I found in the street on a walk.  The pipe was sawed off, opened, and slipped over the burnt contact.  It then was soldered with nice strong silver bearing solder.  I think I used acid flux, so it might eventually corrode and lose contact  .  But, then, I use my lathe too much, so it will probably just self clean and keep working.


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## cederholm (Mar 1, 2018)

ericc said:


> Hi. It seems that my browser was flaky. Here is the picture on the anvil of my vise. I hope it is self explanatory. That is a piece of junk copper tube which I found in the street on a walk. The pipe was sawed off, opened, and slipped over the burnt contact. It then was soldered with nice strong silver bearing solder. I think I used acid flux, so it might eventually corrode and lose contact  . But, then, I use my lathe too much, so it will probably just self clean and keep working.



Silver bearing solder?? Sounds like black magic, tell me more.




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