# Large Wooden Crate



## Jamespvill (May 14, 2014)

Yup, that is in fact a large wooden crate....


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## Ray C (May 14, 2014)

Yep, it's a doozie...  Gee, wonder what it could be?


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## pdentrem (May 14, 2014)

I suspect that is a new owner of a new lathe!
Pierre


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## Thomas Paine (May 14, 2014)

deckel fp4?


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## Leagle (May 14, 2014)

Is that some "Chinese junk" I hear so much about on other forums?


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## Andre (May 14, 2014)

*sob* *tears* *sob* *tears* .....it's what I've always wanted.....a wooden box....*happy tears*


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## wrmiller (May 14, 2014)

Cool...nice box. Now get the dam...er...darn thing open.  )

Bill


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## Jamespvill (May 14, 2014)

It was most certainly a magnificent day in rural central Washington for a giant wooden crate to show up.


And it just so happens to contain one of these! 


A shiny new PM-1440 LB! 


Thanks for not ruining the suspense Ray! By the way, this came unattached to the machine with no screw...I will be returning the entire machine very soon! :lmao: 


Stay tuned for more folks!


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## Andre (May 14, 2014)

Congrats!


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## wrmiller (May 14, 2014)

A large bore? Very nice!

Bill


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## 12bolts (May 15, 2014)

Jamespvill said:


> .....I will be returning the entire machine very soon! ...



I have just sent you a PM with the warranty return address on it. I'll let you know when it is ready for you to pick up again

cheers Phil


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## TOOLMASTER (May 15, 2014)

NICE TUBE CUTTER.


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## Lynrob (May 15, 2014)

Jamespvill said:


> By the way, this came unattached to the machine with no screw...I will be returning the entire machine very soon! :lmao:
> View attachment 76881
> 
> Stay tuned for more folks!



Hey! I think I found your missing screw in the crate my lathe came in!


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## mgalusha (May 15, 2014)

Nice! I almost said something last night about that crate looking exactly like mine, which contained almost exactly the same lathe. 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


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## Jamespvill (May 15, 2014)

I neglected to take many setup pictures because by the time I got around to getting it on the forklift and through the shop door it was dark out. Fortunately there was a full moon! 

Anywho, where she is sitting pretty in her new location. Nobody told me that when you have a lathe with a footbrake and coolant running through the stand, things get a whole lot more exciting!





Thanks for the kind words and offers to take it for warranty repairs! :lmao:

More to come gentlemen!


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## Jamespvill (May 15, 2014)

Got it all setup and ready to make some chips! 



Thus far I am very happy with the lathe, and couldn't be happier. General quality and finish seems superior to my precious green machine. 

The only two gripes I have are that the tailstock is MT4, Apposed to the MT3 that was in listed in the description. All my current tooling is MT3, but this is nothing that a few new drill chuck MT4 arbors and a $15 adapter won't fix! 

Also, And something I need help with is that the chuck turns the opposite direction in which the big red lever is thrown in...What did I mess up this time? I assume it's electrical, but I have no idea how to read electrical diagrams...Anywho, I'm gonna go and try not to make the problem worse.

I'll post a full write-up of the lathe and my experience later this evening.


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## Ray C (May 15, 2014)

Looking good...

I'll find-out about the MT4 vs MT3 issue.  Maybe there is a different ram that can be obtained... Don't know but I'll find-out.  As for the motor, when you push the lever down, it should spin in the normal cutting direction.   If it's not doing that, then the terminal block wiring in the motor is probably reversed.  First, let me know what direction it spins when the lever is pushed down.


Ray


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## mgalusha (May 15, 2014)

My 1440BV has MT4 on the tail stock, MT6 on the spindle and uses a D1-5 camlock. On my case this is as advertised. 

I had to purchase a few MT3-4 sleeves but I was expecting to. The supplied centers and chuck were all MT4. 


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## Jamespvill (May 15, 2014)

Ray C said:


> Looking good...
> 
> I'll find-out about the MT4 vs MT3 issue.  Maybe there is a different ram that can be obtained... Don't know but I'll find-out.  As for the motor, when you push the lever down, it should spin in the normal cutting direction.   If it's not doing that, then the terminal block wiring in the motor is probably reversed.  First, let me know what direction it spins when the lever is pushed down.
> 
> ...



The MT4 vs MT3 Is really no issue at all, just means I need to invest in a whole $25 worth of adapters, no big deal!

When I push the lever down it spins in reverse, or clockwise. I have to pull the lever up to get it to spin counter-clockwise and cut.


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## Ray C (May 15, 2014)

Jamespvill said:


> The MT4 vs MT3 Is really no issue at all, just means I need to invest in a whole $25 worth of adapters, no big deal!
> 
> When I push the lever down it spins in reverse, or clockwise. I have to pull the lever up to get it to spin counter-clockwise and cut.



The easiest way to fix that is to follow the wires from the switch on the op-rod that go into the electrical panel and swap the two switch wires.  It's a two-way switch and there are three wires.  One is either black or grey for the neutral wire.  Switch the position of the other two wires on the terminal panel. 


Ray


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## 12bolts (May 15, 2014)

MT 4 in the tailstock is probably better. Yes you may need a couple of MT3-4 sleeves but its much easier to bush tooling up rather than down. Gets awkward trying to get a MT4-3 to suit.

Cheers Phil


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## Jamespvill (May 15, 2014)

Ray C said:


> The easiest way to fix that is to follow the wires from the switch on the op-rod that go into the electrical panel and swap the two switch wires.  It's a two-way switch and there are three wires.  One is either black or grey for the neutral wire.  Switch the position of the other two wires on the terminal panel.
> 
> 
> Ray



Got it swapped around, now its working like a champ. I felt like I was defusing a bomb...cut the red one! Thanks Ray!


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## Jamespvill (May 15, 2014)

12bolts said:


> MT 4 in the tailstock is probably better. Yes you may need a couple of MT3-4 sleeves but its much easier to bush tooling up rather than down. Gets awkward trying to get a MT4-3 to suit.
> 
> Cheers Phil



I figure MT4 is more rigid anyways. Now my question is do I attempt to knock the MT3 arbor out of my drill chuck and get an MT4 arbor for it or do I just use a bushing? I've heard horror stories about how hard it is to get Jacob tapers out.

I just smacked the arbor and taper together days before the lathe got here and it has never been used if that makes any difference.


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## JimDawson (May 15, 2014)

Jamespvill said:


> I figure MT4 is more rigid anyways. Now my question is do I attempt to knock the MT3 arbor out of my drill chuck and get an MT4 arbor for it or do I just use a bushing? I've heard horror stories about how hard it is to get Jacob tapers out.
> 
> I just smacked the arbor and taper together days before the lathe got here and it has never been used if that makes any difference.



Get a set of chuck removal wedges.  It will come right off.  May as well order them at the same time you order the MT4 to MT3 bushings.  The bushings should work just fine also,  I have always had a MT3 to MT2 on my tailstock chuck. Have never taken it off.


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## AlanR (May 15, 2014)

Jamespvill said:


> I've heard horror stories about how hard it is to get Jacob tapers out.


Some drill chucks have a thru hole, just use a punch or a piece of stock to knock it out. Have a look.


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## coolidge (May 16, 2014)

Ray C said:


> The easiest way to fix that is to follow the wires from the switch on the op-rod that go into the electrical panel and swap the two switch wires.  It's a two-way switch and there are three wires.  One is either black or grey for the neutral wire.  Switch the position of the other two wires on the terminal panel.
> 
> 
> Ray



That's funny my brother who's been a machinist for like 25 years complained because my G4003G wasn't wired for down = reverse.


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## Jamespvill (May 16, 2014)

JimDawson said:


> Get a set of chuck removal wedges.  It will come right off.  May as well order them at the same time you order the MT4 to MT3 bushings.  The bushings should work just fine also,  I have always had a MT3 to MT2 on my tailstock chuck. Have never taken it off.




Just ordered a set, thanks for the info. I didn't even know those existed!


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## Jamespvill (May 16, 2014)

coolidge said:


> That's funny my brother who's been a machinist for like 25 years complained because my G4003G wasn't wired for down = reverse.



Haha! I remember reading in a book somewhere...It may have been Tom Lipton's Sink or Swim, that it's important to keep things up to the "standard" otherwise you might find yourself crashing a machine when fumbling with a machine that your not familiar with.


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## Ray C (May 16, 2014)

coolidge said:


> That's funny my brother who's been a machinist for like 25 years complained because my G4003G wasn't wired for down = reverse.



I've always been confused by this and don't know if there is any standard.  My theory (and the way my machines are setup) is to have the handle mimic the rotation of the chuck from the perspective of standing in front of it.  The chuck spins from the top, toward you then, down which is the same motion as when pushing the handle down to start the chuck for normal cutting.

I'll try to find-out if there is a standard convention -but if there is and if it's different from what I have, I probably won't change mine as I'll no-doubt burn-up a couple inserts trying to cut backward.


Ray


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## Marco Bernardini (May 16, 2014)

Ray C said:


> I've always been confused by this and don't know if there is any standard.  My theory (and the way my machines are setup) is to have the handle mimic the rotation of the chuck from the perspective of standing in front of it.  The chuck spins from the top, toward you then, down which is the same motion as when pushing the handle down to start the chuck for normal cutting.
> 
> I'll try to find-out if there is a standard convention -but if there is and if it's different from what I have, I probably won't change mine as I'll no-doubt burn-up a couple inserts trying to cut backward.
> 
> ...



If I get it correctly, the lathe chuck turn in the same sense of the drill press chuck: clockwise if you look at it from the top of the drill (or from behind the motor of the lathe), counterclockwise if you look at it from the (dangerous) point of view of the piece, below the chuck. The latter is the same view you can have from a lathe tailstock.
And this has a sense: how it would be possible to swap the drill bits between different machines, otherwise?


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## coolidge (May 16, 2014)

Ray C said:


> I've always been confused by this and don't know if there is any standard.  My theory (and the way my machines are setup) is to have the handle mimic the rotation of the chuck from the perspective of standing in front of it.  The chuck spins from the top, toward you then, down which is the same motion as when pushing the handle down to start the chuck for normal cutting.
> 
> I'll try to find-out if there is a standard convention -but if there is and if it's different from what I have, I probably won't change mine as I'll no-doubt burn-up a couple inserts trying to cut backward.
> 
> ...



I agree the handle should match the rotation of the chuck, that is intuitive imo so I'm quite happy with the way it was wired. One thing I do find annoying is the feed direction. Set one direction the carriage feeds right to left but I have to switch the feed direction the other way to face. While annoying I do see how that might save me from crashing into a part so maybe that's why.


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## Jamespvill (May 16, 2014)

Since I'm already complaining about things going the opposite direction I tell them too, then I guess Id better add that the lead screw lever is also backwards. When I throw it in the "left" position my carriage goes right, and vice-versa. I'd assume this is a gearing issues but once again, am not _quite_​ sure where to start.


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## Jamespvill (May 16, 2014)

coolidge said:


> I agree the handle should match the rotation of the chuck, that is intuitive imo so I'm quite happy with the way it was wired. One thing I do find annoying is the feed direction. Set one direction the carriage feeds right to left but I have to switch the feed direction the other way to face. While annoying I do see how that might save me from crashing into a part so maybe that's why.


 
I was always under the impression that was so you could feed left to turn the outside and then when your reach your shoulder, touch off and feed away (towards you) all in one gear setting...Image a sideways "L". Or feed right, then touch off the face of the part and feed inwards...At least that's how I used my 4003G.


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## mgalusha (May 16, 2014)

Jamespvill said:


> Since I'm already complaining about things going the opposite direction I tell them too, then I guess Id better add that the lead screw lever is also backwards. When I throw it in the "left" position my carriage goes right, and vice-versa. I'd assume this is a gearing issues but once again, am not _quite_​ sure where to start.



Hmm, I'm 95% sure mine is the opposite, left on the lead screw lever is carriage left, crossfeed in and the lathes sure look essentially the same. I just dug up one of the pictures from the day it arrived, the image shows feed left when the lever is left and other than looking when i get home I'm sure that is correct. Very odd that yours is the opposite.


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## Ray C (May 16, 2014)

mgalusha said:


> Hmm, I'm 95% sure mine is the opposite, left on the lead screw lever is carriage left, crossfeed in and the lathes sure look essentially the same. I just dug up one of the pictures from the day it arrived, the image shows feed left when the lever is left and other than looking when i get home I'm sure that is correct. Very odd that yours is the opposite.
> 
> View attachment 77041




Hi Mike...

They are different model lathes.  ELV vs BV.  They have different gearboxes all-together.  Different speed ranges etc...


Ray


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## mgalusha (May 16, 2014)

Yes indeed, that is why I said essentially the same. 


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## tmarks11 (May 20, 2014)

Ray C said:


> I've always been confused by this and don't know if there is any standard.



There is no standard.  Lodge and Shipley set up theirs in UP=FWD, others set it up different. Ask 5 machinists, and 2 of them will say one way, and 3 will say the other. Many times, shops will have machines from different manufacturers that have spindle direction controls opposite.  Go figure.

I am of the opinion that UP=FWD is right, but that is just because it is what I am used to.  Not because it is right. But I would probably modify any lathe that did not meet that "standard".


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## Sandia (May 21, 2014)

Ray C said:


> I've always been confused by this and don't know if there is any standard.  My theory (and the way my machines are setup) is to have the handle mimic the rotation of the chuck from the perspective of standing in front of it.  The chuck spins from the top, toward you then, down which is the same motion as when pushing the handle down to start the chuck for normal cutting.
> 
> I'll try to find-out if there is a standard convention -but if there is and if it's different from what I have, I probably won't change mine as I'll no-doubt burn-up a couple inserts trying to cut backward.
> 
> ...




Ray, for whatever its worth, The Acer `4X40 I presently own, down the chuck rotates toward me, up is reverse. The Jet 13X40 I had prior was just the opposite. Maybe there is no set protocol.

Bob


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## Jamespvill (May 22, 2014)

How odd...I would think that there would be a set standard. Too many carbide inserts meet their ends when the machines is thrown in reverse with the bit still touching.

Oh well, I suppose that toilet flush rotation doesn't even have a standard... :lmao:


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## zmotorsports (May 22, 2014)

Sandia said:


> Ray, for whatever its worth, The Acer `4X40 I presently own, down the chuck rotates toward me, up is reverse. The Jet 13X40 I had prior was just the opposite. Maybe there is no set protocol.
> 
> Bob



That is weird.  I thought there was a standard myself because every lathe I have used (I have only used a few separate ones) has had the drum switch where down on the lever rotated the spindle towards the operator (conventional turning) and up on the switch lever turns the spindle away from the operator (reverse).

Our Jet 1336 is that way at work so it appears that even among Jet themselves there is no standard.

Mike.


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## Jamespvill (May 22, 2014)

zmotorsports said:


> That is weird.  I thought there was a standard myself because every lathe I have used (I have only used a few separate ones) has had the drum switch where down on the lever rotated the spindle towards the operator (conventional turning) and up on the switch lever turns the spindle away from the operator (reverse).
> 
> Our Jet 1336 is that way at work so it appears that even among Jet themselves there is no standard.
> 
> Mike.



That just makes me wonder if wires are getting mixed up ALOT...Heck, If this PM would have been been my first machine then I would have assumed that Up=Forward, Down=Reverse.


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## tmarks11 (May 24, 2014)

Jamespvill said:


> Too many carbide inserts meet their ends when the machines is thrown in reverse with the bit still touching.



You should never start (or stop) the lathe with the bit in contact with the workpiece.  Even if with the correct rotation, you are stilling asking to chip the insert.  And when you start the lathe, than you can tell you guessed wrong....


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