# Paint question... or lack there of



## 8mpg (Sep 12, 2018)

So Im refinishing my Bridgeport and starting to wish I never went down this path...but theres no turning back. I have used Citristrip a few times on the paint and lots of paint is coming off but I believe its the factory primer that is a bare. Theres about 5 layers of paint on this machine. I have now resorted to a grinder and wire cup wheel and its going fairly well. I was all set of painting it with Rustoleum enamel but now its down to bare steel (cast iron).. I kinda like it the way it is. 

Anyone ever just clear coat over the bare cast iron/steel?


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## Cadillac (Sep 12, 2018)

Id look into automotive clears  they have uv protectant and very durable to scratch and chemicals. You don't want it to turn urine yellow in acouple months.  Most other clears are not gonna be as durable.


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## Logan 400 (Sep 12, 2018)

I was prepping my Logan 400 to repaint. When I got the grease, oil, and dirt off there was good paint on most of it so I clear coated it to keep its character.
I also stripped a 6" vice and clear coated bare cast iron. The clear enhances the cast iron. I like the look.
Jay


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## 8mpg (Sep 12, 2018)

I just found out that Rustoleum in the can clear is an enamel and can go over bare metal. I think Im going to give it a try


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## Bob Korves (Sep 12, 2018)

8mpg said:


> I just found out that Rustoleum in the can clear is an enamel and can go over bare metal. I think Im going to give it a try


Yes, that works.  You can spray it or brush it.  On older machines and when I want to do the painting where then machine is currently located in the shop, I more and more tend to brush it on,  not thinned.  If you brush it on, never going back over paint that has been brushed out for more than a minute or two, get away from it and don't go back to it until and unless it it is dry, the brush marks will be barely visible.  Work out the path you will take in advance so you never need to put fresh brush marks over partly cured paint.  Brushed on paint looks correct to me on older machines.

Spraying also works well with Rustoleum, either spray cans or thinned from a paint can and applied with a spray gun.   There is, of course, more prep work, masking work, and cleanup work when spraying paint, but if you just cannot stand brush marks...

Either way, if you get all the old oil and dirt and grime off the surface and rough it up a bit, the Rustoleum liquid paint works very well and holds up well in service.  I recommend Rustoleum Smoke Gray for any machine...


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## TakeDeadAim (Sep 23, 2018)

If your going to go through all the trouble of masking it to spray, Id go one step further and apply a 2K automotive grade clear.  It has both the UV protection and resistance to oils and solvents.  Enamels work OK but are not what the old machine tool enamels of years past were.  Most current rebuild shops are using automotive grade paints for that reason.


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## pontiac428 (Sep 28, 2018)

Here's a second for using 2K clear.  About 3 years ago I had two pallets worth of car parts galvanized, and wanted to add an extra layer to preserve the look of the gold finish, since galvy is an ablative finish (yeah, it was for show).  I painted everything clear, thinking that might extend the life a few years.  Anyway,  years later, and I don't even have chips in the clear coat of the undercarriage parts.  2K automotive clear coat is tough stuff, far tougher than I expected.  No bubbles, no chips, no yellowing.  I wouldn't hesitate to paint machinery with it if you like the look of bare iron.


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## 8mpg (Sep 29, 2018)

I went ahead and just painted it.


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