# Fixing A Transfer Punch or Transferring it to the trash



## Pmedic828 (Nov 24, 2014)

I thought that I had posted this yesterday, but could not find it in any listings.  Anyway.... I purchased a horrible freight transfer punch about a year ago when 1st getting my machine.  Needing so many things and not knowing where to purchase things, I thought that I would purchase a cheap set of transfer punches.  However, after using these punches for 3 separate times and flattening the little point on these punches after 1 hit on 3 different punches, I think that I purchased lead punches instead.  
As the points flatten, they will not make an index mark on the steel and looking at the end of the punch, they now resemble pin punches with distortion on the tip - 
Could I mount these punches, drill an appropriate hole in them and cut a piece of drill bit or HSS rod, grind a point on them, and then use locktite to secure them in the punch bodies - is this a good idea ondering:ondering: or will it not work.


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## Beone (Nov 24, 2014)

Try recutting the tips and heat treating. Bring to a full red and quench. Temper if you want


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## owl (Nov 24, 2014)

Take them back for a new set, Harbor Freight claims to have a lifetime warranty on hand tools.  Maybe the next set will have better heat treatment.


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## Uglydog (Nov 24, 2014)

owl said:


> Take them back for a new set, Harbor Freight claims to have a lifetime warranty on hand tools.  Maybe the next set will have better heat treatment.



Agreed.
Unless you were using a 20pound maul to set the hole.

Daryl
MN


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## JimDawson (Nov 24, 2014)

I think I would go buy a good set of transfer punches, and use the HF junk for pin punches or something.  I have a couple of sets of HF transfer punches, but mine seem to work OK.  I probably bought them about 10 or so years ago, and don't use them that much and then mostly in aluminum.


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## darkzero (Nov 24, 2014)

I also have this HF set that I purchased back when I was a mechanic. I've been wanting a quality set but the HF ones have been holding up fine for me. I use them on aluminum, brass, mild steel, & cast iron, haven't flattened one of the pojnts yet but then again I don't bang on them hard. If I need a deeper center punch (rarely do) I use a dedicated center punch.


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## Mark_f (Nov 24, 2014)

I have a set of those cheap HF transfer punches and they work fine. I don't hit them too hard. Use them to mark the spot and use a center punch if I need a bigger divot. 


Mark Frazier


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## Terrywerm (Nov 24, 2014)

I have a set from HF and a set from Enco. The HF set seems to be somewhat inferior to the Enco set, but neither of them is fancy by any means. A few of the punches in the HF set have dulled, but I always try to use that set first. I figure they can be used as pin punches once the tips are shot, as somebody else mentioned already. 

As already mentioned, transfer punches are only meant to transfer a light mark, more like a prickpunch. You then enlarge the mark with a regular center punch.


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## tractorman44 (Nov 27, 2014)

Some of the punches in my set haven't flattened a bit whereas others flattened with little more than a tap with a small hammer on mild steel.  That leads me to believe their tempering process is hit or miss at best.  I've gotten bits and pieces and a number of multiples in some sizes at yard sales and auctions, most of which seem to be of very good quality.  Of course a few are trashed.


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## brav65 (Nov 27, 2014)

I have the HF set and have used them mostly on aluminum.  As mentioned above some of the punches are fine and other flatten with only a light tap.  I am hoping Santa brings a nice set for Christmas!


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## Bill C. (Nov 27, 2014)

Pmedic828 said:


> I thought that I had posted this yesterday, but could not find it in any listings.  Anyway.... I purchased a horrible freight transfer punch about a year ago when 1st getting my machine.  Needing so many things and not knowing where to purchase things, I thought that I would purchase a cheap set of transfer punches.  However, after using these punches for 3 separate times and flattening the little point on these punches after 1 hit on 3 different punches, I think that I purchased lead punches instead.
> As the points flatten, they will not make an index mark on the steel and looking at the end of the punch, they now resemble pin punches with distortion on the tip -
> Could I mount these punches, drill an appropriate hole in them and cut a piece of drill bit or HSS rod, grind a point on them, and then use locktite to secure them in the punch bodies - is this a good idea ondering:ondering: or will it not work.



One thing I was taught about using transfer punches is to tap on the lightly then spin the punch a quarter of a turn and tap them again.  I used mine to transfer hole locations from die sections to a die set.  I don't remember what brand they are, it been over 20 years ago.

I would take the set back and exchange them.  Might try the old file trick and see if you can cut a notch in the shaft to see if they were case hardened. 

Good luck,


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## Rbeckett (Nov 28, 2014)

The drill and set a new pin idea works for me.  I would use some good old tig tungs that are too short to burn and get a good point on it. face and drill the face of the TP and drive it home with red or green Loctite.  Money saver and  fun shop project too!!!!!!

Bob


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## Dave Smith (Nov 28, 2014)

a small tap-rotate-tap lightly again --then use a center punch to tap harder---when your transfer punch is dull then just put it in the lathe and make another middle point with a lathe bit---should never need to buy a new one---unless some one uses a big hammer using it for a regular punch and bends the shaft( I have seen this in shops)--------------HF transfer punches work fine if used correctly and can be repointed on the lathe like all others when dull----Dave


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## Wireaddict (Dec 2, 2014)

I also bought a set of HF transfer punches about 8 years ago & have used them quite a bit with no problems.  I'd say you got a set that hadn't been hardened or not tempered properly.  I use mine mostly on steel & strike them firmly with a 1 pound copper hammer then restrike the divot with a center punch & the same hammer.  As soft as your punches seem to be you shouldn't have much trouble either drilling the ends & inserting new points or turning the ends of the punches.


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