# Craftsman 101.28990 12" Metal Lathe - Refurb



## rhjo51 (Nov 12, 2020)

Hi, I recently purchased a Craftsman Craftsman 101.28990 12" Metal Lathe. SN 107765. I'm guessing mid-lates 70s. It appears to be in good shape but really gunky and tight from old hard grease. Almost looks to be hardened wax. I need to basically disassemble and clean. I want to take the quick change box off to start but I'm having some trouble with removing the lead screw. I opened the half nuts and removed the two bolts from the lead screw right bearing. I figured the lead screw would pull out but it wont. It turns, but wont pull out. I don't want to force anything so looking for some advice.  This lathe appears to be a later one, in addition to the 2 cap screw on the front holding on the QC, there is one cap screw inside the headstock. 

I tried to look under the QC and it's really hard to see but it appears that the end of the lead screw goes through a gear and there is a snap ring holding the gear to the end of the lead screw. I think. if so, I'm guessing I do need to unbolt the QC and the right bearing on the lead screw, then pull the QC to the left and remove the snap ring so I can pull out the lead screw. Can anyone confirm? Thanks


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## wa5cab (Nov 12, 2020)

No!  You do NOT want to attempt to remove that snap ring/Circlip.  

Do you have one of the parts manuals on the 101.28990?  If not, you need to get one or to get the equivalent manual on the Atlas 3996, which is the same machine except for the badge and nameplate.  Both manuals are in the Atlas/Craftsman folder of Downloads.  The 3996 REV 12 one is the cleanest.  However, access to Downloads requires Donor status.  A $10 donation will suffice and is good for one year.  But that will not allow you to sell on the site.  Minimum donation for that is $25 (mainly for historical reasons - the $10 donor level wasn't added until several years later).  Or you can go to Vintage Machinery and find a 101.28990 manual there that you can probably read well enough to see what you are doing.

In any case, armed with one of the parts manuals, you will see that the left end of the lead screw slides into the friction clutch that is the item mounted on the same shaft as the Circlip is on the left end of.  The keyway that runs the length of the leads screw (except for the extreme right end) meshes with a key on one of the friction disks inside of the clutch.  It is probably stuck but proceed as though it isn't, initially.

Normally, if nothing is stuck, the way to remove the lead screw is to run the carriage nearly all of the way to the right end of the lead screw.  Engage the half nuts (you may need to jog the carriage back and forth a little to get them to mesh with the threads on the lead screw).  Remove the two socket head screws (once in a while they may be hex head) that attach the 041-284 Bracket (right bearing assembly mounting plate) to the bed.  Use the traverse hand wheel to extract the lead screw from the clutch.  Once it is out of the clutch, disengage the half nuts and slide lead screw and right bearing assembly to the right until clear of the carriage.

If the lead screw is stuck in the clutch, disassemble the clutch and work the lead screw out of the friction disks.  Be sure to note the order in which the friction disks are installed upon the lead screw.  To disassemble the clutch, refer to the assembly drawing in the manual and unscrew the 127-028 Clutch Cap from the 396-081 Clutch Housing.  Slide the cap to the right and work the friction disks out of the housing.  Only one of the disks has a male key.


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## rhjo51 (Nov 12, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> No!  You do NOT want to attempt to remove that snap ring/Circlip.
> 
> Do you have one of the parts manuals on the 101.28990?  If not, you need to get one or to get the equivalent manual on the Atlas 3996, which is the same machine except for the badge and nameplate.  Both manuals are in the Atlas/Craftsman folder of Downloads.  The 3996 REV 12 one is the cleanest.  However, access to Downloads requires Donor status.  A $10 donation will suffice and is good for one year.  But that will not allow you to sell on the site.  Minimum donation for that is $25 (mainly for historical reasons - the $10 donor level wasn't added until several years later).  Or you can go to Vintage Machinery and find a 101.28990 manual there that you can probably read well enough to see what you are doing.
> 
> ...


Hello W5Acab, many thinks for your detailed explanation - very helpful! I do have the 101.28990 Manual from Vintage Machinery but it wasn't clear to on how to proceed. I'll try your instructions and see what happens. I likely have to disassemble the clutch as the Lathe is pretty gooed up - not rusted - from sitting. Thanks again.


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## rhjo51 (Nov 12, 2020)

BINGO! I ran out to the workshop at lunchtime and I was able to remove the lead screw using the method you described. Many thanks!


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## wa5cab (Nov 12, 2020)

OK.  Glad to hear that it worked.

One additional point that I forgot to mention is that as the machine is at least 38-1/2 years old and your description doesn't mention any damage that would have been caused by a crash, you should perform the slip clutch calibration.  Use a nonmetallic strap wrench both to loosen and tighten the  clutch cap and also to rotate the lead screw several turns with the cap tightened by hand before you start the actual setting procedure.  This is to clean off the friction surfaces.


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## rhjo51 (Nov 12, 2020)

Good idea. I Will do that when I put it back together. I appreciate the help as I dig into this refurb. I may have more questions coming.... Thanks!


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## rhjo51 (Nov 13, 2020)

Today's adventures - I removed the lead screw and the apron. The saddle was tight and moving slow but I didn't force anything. When I took the apron off, I saw that the traverse gear case was broken with one of the 3 screws and nut missing. I wondered if that was something I did but the screw and nut were missing when I removed it. I think that happened a while ago. Everything else in the apron was good including the half nuts. Now to locate a new transverse gear case. Anybody have one or know where I can get it? Thanks - Jim


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## wa5cab (Nov 15, 2020)

Last that I heard, Clausing still had some.  Not cheap, though.


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## rhjo51 (Nov 15, 2020)

Thanks. I doubt I could repair this somehow.


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## rhjo51 (Nov 16, 2020)

Hi - I changed the title of my post as I got past the original problem but have questions as I work though this refurb. I hope that is not against protocol. I had some questions about removing the headstock. I can see the two cap head screws on the left side, and see that there will be a clamp under the right side. Any easy way to get to the clamp bolt? Lift up the bed? I also wanted to ask about the back gear lock pin, is mime in or out? I think out, but it's frozen and wont move. The spindle back gear-bullgear? is not free wheeling.


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## mickri (Nov 16, 2020)

It is in the out position.  Try using PBBlaster on it to free it up.

You might be able to braze the broken part.  No harm in trying since it is already broken.  Red Beard Opps had the same problem on his lathe and repaired it.  https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/introduction-new-atlas-lathe-owner.86760/page-2.  Go to post #44


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## rhjo51 (Nov 16, 2020)

Thanks Mickri, I thought it was in the out position. I wonder why it's not free wheeling since the pin is out? I'll soak it some more, can I tap it in to loosen? I'm noodling on some ideas to fix the transvers gear case. Thanks!


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## Nogoingback (Nov 16, 2020)

Have you looked on ebay for the part you need?


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## mickri (Nov 16, 2020)

Is the back gear engaged?  If it is the gear won't freewheel.  Takes a fair amount of force to turn the gear when the back gear is engaged on my lathe.

Also the hole and the pin have to be lined to be able to push that pin in. Otherwise it will only move a little bit.  Disengage the back gear.  Then move the pulley with light pressure on the pin.  When the hole and the pin are lined up the pin will slip into place.  Also there are two holes in the pulley 180 degrees apart that the pin can slip into on my lathe.


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## rhjo51 (Nov 16, 2020)

I checked ebay and there are some transverse gear cases there but pricey - half as much as I paid for the lathe and tooling! But at least there is an option there. This lathe is really gooed and parts are just about frozen. This is the motor under version and I see the back gear lever is tight and frozen. I think I'll have to remove the headstock to get in from underneath and see if I can get things moving. Any easy way to remove the headstock from the bed? Turn it on it's side? Thanks for all your help, I appreciate it. - Jim


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## mickri (Nov 16, 2020)

I don't think that you need to take the head stock off to start with.  Do you have the manual for your lathe?  If not here is a link where you can download a copy from Vintage Machinery.  http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/6137.pdf.  I would start by saturating all of the lubrication points with PB Blaster, WD40 or whatever is your favorite.  Carb or brake cleaner might also help.  CAVEAT.  After doing this be sure to properly lubricate the lathe before using it.  The proper lubricant is a 30 wt oil that is no longer available.  The modern equivalent is AW46 or AW68 hydraulic oil.  Most places want to sell it in 5 gallon pails.  I was able to get 1 gallon of AW46 at O'Riely's.  A lifetime supply.

You will also want to grease the gears once everything is freed up.  I just use whatever I have on hand.  But some greases will collect chips and swarf.  Robert will chime in here on the proper grease to use.

I have the same lathe as you do except mine is the bench top model.


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## wa5cab (Nov 16, 2020)

First, I would only remove the headstock from the bed as a last resort.

The main requirement on the grease for the open gears is that it should be rated for high temperature operation, at least 300 degrees F.  The original factory recommended grease hasn't been made since shortly after the French company Total bought the maker.

Also, there is actually no such thing as a 30 wt grease and never has been.  The proper oil to use where oil is specified is SAE 20, not SAE 30.  The ISO equivalent is ISO 68 if you have trouble finding SAE 20 ND.  It may be described as hydraulic or circulating oil.  Do not use multi-viscosity motor oil, not because it is multi-viscosity so much as because it will contain an additive that absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and never gets hot enough to blow it out the tailpipe as it does in an engine application.  Also, oil described as "way oil" is OK to use on the ways and the carriage and tail stock gibs.  It will stay on or cling to the vertical surfaces of the ways better that straight SAE 20.

The bull gear is not free wheeling for the simple reason that it is locked in place on the spindle by a Woodruff key and a set screw.  The pulley on the spindle is free wheeling relative to the spindle if the Direct Drive pin is pulled out.  And what looks like a set screw in the (in the case of a cabinet model lathe) 2-groove pulley is actually an oil plug.  It MUST NOT touch the spindle when tightened.  This is an unfortunately fairly common error that too many new owners make.

On the subject of manuals and parts lists, there are several in our Downloads module.  Along with drawings with which to make some of the NLA parts.  But access to Downloads requires Donor status (and reading the instructions for use).  The best manual on the late 12" happens to be the one on the Atlas 3996, which differs from the 101.28990 only in having Atlas on the badge and nameplate instead of Craftsman.  It is a pet peeve of mine that very few people who have a scanner have even a clue as to how to operate it.  One of these days I may find the time to clean up one of the Craftsman manuals and correct several minor errors in it.


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## bill70j (Nov 16, 2020)

rhjo51 said:


> a new transverse gear case. Anybody have one or know where I can get it? Thanks - Jim


Jim:

There is a seller on Ebay who  machines  a good copy of the traverse gear case 10F-11 or you can still buy one from Clausing, though it's a lightweight one much like the original.

Also, if you are interested in making one, I have as-built Fusion 360 drawings, which I can email to you.  Just PM me.  Lastly, I have one left over out of a lot that I machined out of CRS to include a brass bushing, which is available for sale.  It looks like the Fusion rendering shown below.

Bill


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## rhjo51 (Nov 16, 2020)

Hello Gentlemen, thanks to you all for your comments for my education. I am well experienced in referbing old wood working machinery but this is my first foray in a metal lathe. I am a newbie here but learning and enjoying it a lot, so thanks again. Great information on the oils, and I will pursue the atlas manual - I have the craftsman 101.28990 manual from vintage machinery. Bill, thanks for the information on the copies on eBay, I’ll take a look. - Jim


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## rhjo51 (Nov 18, 2020)

I had some time today and spent some of it cleaning the QC. It's in good shape but I saw that the change gears on the quadrant were frozen. Specifically the gear sleeves were stuck inside the bushings. I was able to tap our the sleeves and they are fine now but the gears are tightly frozen on the bushings. I can see from the parts diagram that they are free from the gears but you never know so, for this model from the 70s, are the gears supposed to be free and sliding on the bushings - or not. I don't want to break them so thought I'd ask here. Boy are they on there tight... Thanks


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## mickri (Nov 18, 2020)

My bushings and gears were the same.  Stuck together.  I originally thought that they were some how bonded together.  Particularly the two 48 tooth gears.  After soaking with PB Blaster and WD40 the bushing slid out.  These gears are not very strong.  Be careful trying to get the bushing out.  If you should happen to break a gear the gears are available on Ebay.

If you need to cut metric threads you can replace the two 48 tooth gears with a 52 tooth and a 44 tooth gear.  Or it might be a 54/42 gear combo.  My memory fails me at times.  There are articles in the documents about doing this.  There are also threads that discuss making this modification.  I did it to my lathe.


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## rhjo51 (Nov 19, 2020)

Thanks Mickri, looks like more soaking is in order. Thanks!


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## kcoffield (Nov 19, 2020)

rhjo51 said:


> I checked ebay and there are some transverse gear cases there but pricey - half as much as I paid for the lathe and tooling!


Congrats on the purchase. That is a great buy for that lathe with tooling, even if it does need a little TLC. The broken traverse gear case is easily solved. You may have already removed it, but I noticed the locking clamp/bolt was missing on the carriage.


rhjo51 said:


> Thanks Mickri, looks like more soaking is in order. Thanks!


Not sure how long the lathe sat before you purchased it, but it's clear from the photos the previous owner didn't believe in oiling because it's _*very*_ dry, thus why many things are stuck. I'd go to the manual lube chart and get oil everywhere it should be, but I'd be inclined to do some disassembly and cleaning if there is any rust because it's a abrasive. If you're not comfortable with that then penetrating fluid, and then lots of flushing to clear the debris, and lot's of oil afterward because all the penetrating fluid will dramatically dilute any new lube. Sounds like so far, it's the bull gear pin, the back gear engagement mechanism, and change gear bushings. I'd also buy new felts and wipers for the ways, and also wicks for the oiling cups. They're inexpensive and can collect crud, even though the previous owner may have never used them. This eBay seller sent a laminated oiling chart with my purchase.....which is pretty handy.









						Felt Wiper Way Set Atlas Craftsman Metal Lathe 10 /12 Commercial USA FAST SHIP  | eBay
					

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for  Felt Wiper Way Set Atlas Craftsman Metal Lathe 10 /12 Commercial USA FAST SHIP at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



					www.ebay.com
				




Best,
Kelly


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## rhjo51 (Nov 19, 2020)

kcoffield said:


> Not sure how long the lathe sat before you purchased it, but it's clear from the photos the previous owner didn't believe in oiling because it's _*very*_ dry, thus why many things are stuck. I'd go to the manual lube chart and get oil everywhere it should be, but I'd be inclined to do some disassembly and cleaning if there is any rust because it's a abrasive. If you're not comfortable with that then penetrating fluid, and then lots of flushing to clear the debris, and lot's of oil afterward because all the penetrating fluid will dramatically dilute any new lube. Sounds like so far, it's the bull gear pin, the back gear engagement mechanism, and change gear bushings. I'd also buy new felts and wipers for the ways, and also wicks for the oiling cups. They're inexpensive and can collect crud, even though the previous owner may have never used them. This eBay seller sent a laminated oiling chart with my purchase.....which is pretty handy.


Unfortunately I don't have the history of the lathe, so who knows how long it sat. I'm guessing a long time. The PO got it to use for wood turning but never did. Came with wood turning rests and tools. Yes, very dry it is with little rust. As you suggested it needs a lot of oiling but I' not in a hurry to use it so I am dissasembling most of the components to clean and lube. I hope I can free up the bull gear pin and engagement without removing the head stock - we'll see. Great suggestions on the wipers and wicks - will do. Thanks for your help. - Jim


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## rhjo51 (Nov 19, 2020)

kcoffield said:


> Congrats on the purchase. That is a great buy for that lathe with tooling, even if it does need a little TLC. The broken traverse gear case is easily solved. You may have already removed it, but I noticed the locking clamp/bolt was missing on the carriage.


You have a good eye! The locking clamp bolt was missing but should be easy to replace. Thanks


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## kcoffield (Nov 19, 2020)

rhjo51 said:


> The PO got it to use for wood turning but never did.



That explains a lot. Wood and metal working machines don't play well together for just that reason.

Take care,
Kelly


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## rhjo51 (Nov 21, 2020)

I was able to free up the back gear lever and can now engage it or not. However I found that when not engaged, I can move the spindle by hand. When engaged (Not sure if I got this backward), I cannot move the spindle. It looks like the lock pin is frozen in the out position. I removed the set screw that is in the outside face of the bull gear and am soaking things. So, why does the spindle not moving when the back gears are engaged? Thank you - Jim


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## mickri (Nov 21, 2020)

My best guess is that the back gear shaft is frozen.  There is a plug directly under the spindle.  It covers the end of the back gear shaft and is a lubrication point.  The manual for your lathe states to clean with kerosene and then lubricate. Have you removed it and sprayed PB Blaster/WD40 on the shaft.  No lube point on the other end that I know of other than on the top of the spindle shaft.

Look on page 15 of your manual.  When you engage the back gears the back gears move up to engage the spindle gear and the bull gear.  The back gears shaft has an inner shaft controlled by the back gear lever.  Parts 59 and 61.  I think that those two shafts are stuck together.  There appears to be a hole in part 59 that may be a lube point for the inner shaft part 61.


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## wa5cab (Nov 21, 2020)

The lubrication point for the back gears on the late Atlas/Craftsman 12" is through a ball detent oiler located under the chuck and spindle in the lower right face of the headstock.  It should be covered (hidden) by a plated steel springy hole plug.  The ball detent oiler requires a squirt can type oil pump (same as for the half-nut lever on the carriage apron) with a truncated conical tip..

I do believe that the direct drive pin in the side of the bull gear is in the OUT position.  However, there are only two spots on the face of the bull gear where you can move the direct drive pin to the "In" or direct drive positions.  Once you (if necessary) free up the pin, I strongly recommend that you mark the two spots on the pulley where the two holes are located.  I marked the positions on my 3996 40 years ago, with a center punch.

However, you will find that it is close to impossible to rotate the spindle by hand if the back gears are engaged.  Especially if the motor belt is tight.  Because of the gear ratio (about 6:1) when you try to rotate the spindle with back gears engaged, you are trying to rotate the motor at several hundred or a few thousand RPM.  Which you cannot easily do by hand.

What set screw did you remove?  There is no set screw on the 12" as there is on the 6" for the spring and ball-end detent pin.  Just an open hole, because the spring and pin go in the hole first.  Then the direct drive pin.


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## rhjo51 (Nov 21, 2020)

The set screw I'm referring to is the one for the spindle back gear. Figure it would not hurt to get some oil in there. With the set screw out I can move the gear side to side a bit. The lock pin wont move. I can see that 180 degrees from the lock pin there is a hole between the back gear and the pulley in which I think is the "reverse lever plunger". that doesn't move either. Not sure what this plunger does. I did oil the back gears through that oil point down below. The back gear shaft is not frozen. If I cannot turn the spindle by hand when engaged maybe it's ok, but regardless, that lock pin wont move. Thanks


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## mickri (Nov 21, 2020)

If belts are not loose, loosen the belts so everything can spin without trying to spin the motor. If the back gear is not engaged will the bull gear spin? And will the spindle spin?  They should spin independent of each other since the lock pin is in the out position.  When you engage the back gear and with the belts loose you should be able to easily spin the spindle and the bull gear should spin at a much reduced rate compared to the spindle.  If you can't spin the spindle with the back gears engaged then the back gears are probably frozen on their shaft.  I just checked this on my lathe.  With the belt loose and the back gear engaged I could easily spin the spindle and the bull gear spun at a reduced rate.


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## rhjo51 (Nov 21, 2020)

Thanks I’ll try this in the morning. I appreciate your help. - Jim


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## wa5cab (Nov 22, 2020)

Well, there is an easy way to answer the question of whether or or not the back gear bushings are stuck to the back gear shaft.  First remove the oil plug from the 2-groove spindle pulley.  Squirt a good bit of oil into the hole and then reinstall the plug.  With the back gears disengaged, start and run the motor for a few seconds.  Stop the motor, engage the back gears and re-start the motor.

The set screw that bears on the Woodruff key is for setting the position of the bull gear relative to the 2-groove pulley.  Rotate the bull gear to bring the set screw to 12"00 o'clock.  Slide the gear toward the pulley, hold the gear in position and tighten the set screw.  Slide the pulley back and forth.  The pulley should have approximately 0.003" to 0.005" of end-float.  Assuming zero spindle end float.

Take a photo showing the direct drive pin.  And this hole for the mysterious "reverse lever plunger".


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## rhjo51 (Nov 22, 2020)

Alright some more investigative work. Cold in the workshop today... I removed the motor dive belts. With the back gears engaged, I cannot move the spindle. 

With the back gear dis-engaged, both the spindle and the lower back gear assembly spin freely on their own. 

I removed the oil screw from the spindle pulley and oiled it good. I was mistaken in my previous post, the reverse lever plunger is not 180 degrees from the lock pin, it's inline with it. I think it's the #15/16 in the diagram and you can see what I am referring to in the photo- it's between the spindle gear and pulley, there is an indent there. per haps the lock pin is out - but not all the way? With the With the spindle pulley lock screw out, I can move the gear and pulley aprt a little but not enough to free anything up.

I am reluctant to put the belts on an run the motor with the back gear engaged - wont that damage something if it's locked up?  Thanks


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## mickri (Nov 22, 2020)

Do not run the motor until we get everything sorted out.  Do the spindle pulley and the bull gear spin together with the back gear disengage?  If they do then the lock pin is not all the way out.  I measured my lathe.  With the lock pin all the way out the pin sticks out .725" from the boss it fits in on the bull gear.  Your lathe may be different because the bull gear on your lathe is different from the bull gear on my lathe.  But comparing the parts diagram for your lathe to my lathe both have the same parts with the same part numbers. 

 Is the indent in image 1249 inline with the lock pin?  If it is I would squirt some PB Blaster on it.

What you are pointing to in image 1248 I believe is #11 in the parts diagram.  This is the oil screw.  It should not be tightened down to the spindle.  The pulley has to be able to spin independently from the spindle. 

Have you tried lightly tapping on the lock pin?  Have you tried gripping the lock pin with vise grips and either trying to twist the lock pin or pull it out or push it in?


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## rhjo51 (Nov 22, 2020)

Yes the spindle pulley and bull gear spin together when the back gear is disengaged. The indent is inline with the lock pin. I removed the oil screw to add oil and it is not tightened to the spindle. I’m soaking everything with penetrant and will try tapping and twisting the lock pin, I really haven’t tried that yet. Thanks


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## wa5cab (Nov 22, 2020)

First, let me say that all of the parts with which we are dealing except for the spindle pulley were used on all 10" and 12: lathes made by Atlas.  And the right end of the pulley with the two direct drive holes is the same on all of those machines.  Also, I have remarked before that Atlas almost never (until the purchase of Clausing polluted their part numbering system) assigned a new part number to an existing part that was used on a later machine.  The part descriptions or names that are bothering people because they makes no sense, numbers 15 and 16, were first used on the 9" lathe as the detent for the reversing lever on the lead screw drive gear box.

Mickri is generally correct.  The direct drive pin is in the out or back gear position.  It will not move to the direct drive position unless the spindle pulley is rotated to one of the two positions that align a hole in the pulley with the direct drive pin.  Loosen the set screw #6 and slide the bull gear towards the tail stock.  That should uncover enough of the right end of the pulley for you to find the two holes.  It will also uncover the radial hole that parts 15 and 16 are in.  Clean out that hole and fill it with penetrating oil.  Twist the direct drive pin CW and CCW and when it starts moving, align it with either of the two holes in the pulley and push it into the hole.  Permanently mark the OD of the pulley so that in the future you can find the hole blind.

I almost forgot to add that the direct drive pin #18 as drawn is upside down.  I assume that is because if drawn as it would actually be when installed, it would look like just a straight pin.


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## Jim F (Nov 22, 2020)

If you can find an auto repair shop that uses BG products close by.
Get a can of BG In-Force.
Best penetrant on the market.


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## wa5cab (Nov 22, 2020)

How does it compare to Kroil?


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## Jim F (Nov 22, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> How does it compare to Kroil?


I have not found anything better.
It also does not flare up like others when spayed on a hot surface.
Worked at Ford dealers for 18 yrs., only thing I use now.


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## rhjo51 (Nov 22, 2020)

I have the set screw for the spindle pulley out and can move the pulley a little to the right - maybe an 1/16“, but that’s it. The pulley and spindle gear are locked together. I’ve been spraying penetrating oil form a few dats now. tomorrow I’ll see if I can loosen the lock pin somehow, perhaps it’s not all the way out. Thanks - jim


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## rhjo51 (Nov 23, 2020)

Not sure but I'm thinking maybe the spindle pulley is frozen - it's not the bull gear. And the back gear assembly is not frozen. I'm going to continue to use penetrating oil around the pulley and in the pulley oil hole, then put the motor belts on and with the back gears disengaged, turn it on. Maybe that will help free up the pulley. Thoughts? Thanks.


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## mickri (Nov 23, 2020)

The pulley on my lathe moves about 1/16" back and forth on the spindle.  It doesn't matter if the lock pin is in or out.  So it doesn't appear that the pulley is frozen.  I am thinking more and more that the problem is the lock pin.  I would focus on freeing up the lock pin.  Time to start lightly tapping on the lock pin and trying to twist it.  With the pin all the way in on my lathe it is .400 from the pin boss on the bull gear to the end of the pin.  With the pin all the way out it is .725.  Have you tried heating the lock pin with a heat gun/hair dryer.  That may melt the gunk that is keeping the lock pin from moving.

Before running the lathe measure how far the pin is sticking out.  If the pin is most of the way out and only barely into the pulley you might damage the pin and or the pulley by running the lathe.


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## rhjo51 (Nov 23, 2020)

Hello Mickri, thanks for the advice. I'll measure the lock pin. I also have a heat gun and will try it on the lock pin then some tapping and twisting.  Thanks again.


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## rhjo51 (Nov 23, 2020)

SUCCESS! More penetrant and a good pull on the pin did nothing. I then used my heat gun and after a few minutes was able to turn the pin ever so slightly. More heat and penetrant and I was able to pull the in out - came out a good quarter inch. With the pin out the pulley and bull gear spin independently and I was able to engage or disengage the back gear. I was able to locate both pin holes in the pulley and will mark. I'm continuing to use penetrant on the pin and can sometime pull it in and out with my fingers - success! Thank you folks for your help - I appreciate it.


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## rhjo51 (Nov 23, 2020)

I didn’t have time today but now that things are freed up, I was planning on hooking up the belts and running the lathe with and with out the back gears engaged. The QV and lead screw are off. I used a lot of penetrant so plan to oil every thing real good for a few minutes, oil again, run again. Should I grease the teeth of all the gears first and if so with what? Assume I should run it at low speed at first. Seem reasonable? Any advise? Thanks


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## mickri (Nov 23, 2020)

You definitely want to grease and lubricate everything before running the lathe.  Robert will chime in with the proper grease to use.  I use whatever I have handy.  The preferred modern oil is AW-68 weight hydraulic oil.  Hard to find in quantities smaller than 5 gallons.  I use AW-46 hydraulic oil which is still within the spec range.  Bought a gallon at O'Reilys for under $20.  Lifetime supply.


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## rhjo51 (Dec 7, 2020)

I had an opportunity to run the lathe after a good oiling and greasing - ran great in direct drive and back gears. The lathe came with a 6" 3 jaw Craftsman chuck which I removed. It's in great shape but tight so I want to disassemble it to clean it however I can't seem to get it apart. Tried soaking it in kerosene and also tried a lot of penetrating oil with no luck. Any ideas or tricks on taking this apart? There's nothing to even tap on to seperate. Thanks for your help.


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## Jim F (Dec 7, 2020)

It takes some beating with a plastic hammer.


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## mickri (Dec 7, 2020)

Post a picture of the chuck.


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## rhjo51 (Dec 7, 2020)

Here's some pics. AFAIK it's the original Craftsman chuck purchased with the lathe. I have the box and the other set of jaws. I tried whacking it around the edge with a plastic hammer - nothing. Tried a little heat too - nothing. Thanks


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## Jim F (Dec 7, 2020)

It separates in the at the line through the pinion centers.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Dec 7, 2020)

use a wooden dowel (brass also works) held against the scroll and smack it with a mallet. Go around each jaw position in turn and keep smacking until it separates. Just make sure all possible screws are removed first!


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## mickri (Dec 7, 2020)

Your chuck is identical to mine.  I used a wood block in the center of the chuck and smacked it with a hammer.  A 1 1/2" wood dowel is best because it will make contact all the way around. The backing plate is a very tight, precise fit.  If you don't have a 1 1/2" dowel and have to hit around the edges of the thread you will need to use lighter taps to keep the backing plate from cocking as it comes out.


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## rhjo51 (Dec 7, 2020)

Good news - I got it apart. The dowel wouldn’t budge it but some low heat and a brass punch working around the threads did the trick.thanks!


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## Jim F (Dec 7, 2020)

My 3 jaw is a Cushman,also, though a little different.
Was caked with dried oil and grit.
Had to grind the jaws,also, .020 bell mouth.
I think it might be original to the 1947 SB 9.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Dec 7, 2020)

rhjo51 said:


> Good news - I got it apart. The dowel wouldn’t budge it but some low heat and a brass punch working around the threads did the trick.thanks!


awesome!


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## rhjo51 (Apr 1, 2021)

Hello all, I finally found some time to start putting the lathe back together after cleaning all the components over the winter. I have some questions on where the rubber bushings go - I don’t remember from when I disassembled it. I checked the owners manual but the parts schematic is not clear. This is the under carriage model. Do the rubber washer bushings go between the tray and the legs/cabinet or between the rail legs and the tray? Wasn’t clear to me. Thanks for your help. - Jim


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## wa5cab (Apr 2, 2021)

The drawing isn't completely clear as it does show the rubber seal as below the pan but also shows the nut and lockwasher with it (above the leg).  But mine purchased new had the seals in between the pan and the top of the cabinet and leg.  This generally makes sense as if they were between the bed legs and the pan, they would cause difficulty with inserting or removing shims.


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## rhjo51 (Apr 2, 2021)

Great, thanks for letting me know. - Jim


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