# Wiring a H10 for forward and reverse



## HMF (Feb 20, 2017)

I'm reprinting the question and answer from the Yahoo Group for those who need help with this (without having to join "that group")

I would like to know how to wire my SBL Heavy 10 to run in in reverse as well as forward and I would like to know how for both 110V and 220V.

I have a SBL Heavy 10, a Baldor BL3507, 0.75 HP, 1725RPM, 1PH, 60HZ,Brake, 3428LC motor and a Koino Kun Hung 205 switch.  See photos below.

I appreciate greatly any help.
Thanks,
xxxxxxxxxxxx

Photo of switch currently incorrectly wired.  Goes forward in both forward and reverse positions of the switch.







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Looks to me that the the photo of the switch is upside down from diagram of the switch.

The two cross-connected sets of contacts should reverse the starting winding. That is what the motor tag is talking about when it says "TO REV ROT INTERCHANGE #5 AND #8"

The single set of contacts with the end-to-end jumper (which has nothing connected to it) turns the run winding on-and off.

The way it is wired it I would expect it to behave how you describe. Your current connection switches both hot and neutral, currently considered good practice - and for the high voltage connection mandatory. It could be that the previous owner internationally sacrificed reversibility to switch both hots (high voltage) or hot and neutral (low voltage).

So far I haven't been actually helpful. It will take me a few minutes with a pad to work this out. Somebody probably already has it worked out. If they don't pipe up I'll work it out.

Dan, that's my favorite kind of drum switch, triple pole, double throw with jumpers. We can generally make it drive almost anything, including three phase if we are willing to move the jumpers around. I've got a few wiring diagrams around here, I'll look through them and get back with you.

xxxxxx


Ok xxxxxxxx, I've attached two images- one for 110V and one for 220V.

The 110V wiring is more complex, because you have to bring both legs of the start winding (T5 and T8) out to the switch. You will also have to add a small jumper from terminal 1 to 4 in your drawing.




With 220V, we only have to bring one of T5 or T8 out to the switch. Here, the jumper modifications are more complex, however. You have to add a small jumper from terminal 3 to 6, and remove the crossed jumpers on the lower half of the switch. Replace them with a jumper that is a mirror image of the upper one. Then you only need three wires plus ground from the motor to the switch.




Note that there are other ways to wire for 220 that will not require you to change the jumpers.

I generally prefer 220, as its fewer, thinner conductors than 110. But, then you have to tweak the switch more. No other difference, really.

​Hope some of you can use this.


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