# Adult Drawbar For My Pm25-mv



## lcorley (Nov 18, 2015)

I don't like the little 8mm square drawbar top on my PM25-MV.  I decided to make a replacement with a 3/4 hex, just like the big boys. I got a piece of 1/2" CRS rod and threaded it on the bottom for 7/16-20. I threaded the top 1/2-13 and used a coupling nut from Home Depot. So far, so good.  Here's a couple of pix.










regards,
Leon


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## coolidge (Nov 18, 2015)

I thought this thread would have more scantly clad women


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## brav65 (Nov 18, 2015)

coolidge said:


> I thought this thread would have more scantly clad women


 Or at least some scantily clad machines


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## Silverbullet (Nov 19, 2015)

Well he could put a brass piece in the coupling nut and have it as a knocker. Turn it and thread it screw it in , a 3/4"  x 1" long should make it. The coupling nut won't get destroyed to easily either.


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## compsurge (Nov 19, 2015)

Another one of those "so simple I should have thought of it" threads!

Did you put threadlocker on the coupling side?


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## lpeedin (Nov 19, 2015)

I was thinking the same thing about thread locker.  Or cross drilling the whole assembly and tapping in a roll pin.


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## wrmiller (Nov 19, 2015)

Nice. Did something similar to my mill where I used 4140 all-thread, a coupling nut, and made a new spacer/washer to accurately center the drawbar. Used thread locker on the coupling nut.


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## wawoodman (Nov 19, 2015)

wrmiller said:


> Nice. Did something similar to my mill where I used 4140 all-thread, a coupling nut, and made a new spacer/washer to accurately center the drawbar. Used thread locker on the coupling nut.



So this makes me think. The drawbar on my Rockler is wobbly when loose. Is it supposed to be centered in the top of the spindle? Should the drawbar be in some kind of a bushing at the top?


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## wrmiller (Nov 19, 2015)

My original drawbar was wobbly in it's original flat bushing at the top of the spindle, which pretty much guaranteed the drawbar wasn't centered when tightened. With the original six-speed gearhead design, I don't think this was much of a big deal. But when I converted to belt-drive and VFD I am now capable of 5k plus spindle rpm so having things centered became a bit more important to me. So I made a flat-topped bushing that 'just' clears the spindle ID and drawbar OD. Noticeably smoother at higher spindle rpms.


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## lcorley (Nov 19, 2015)

I planned on using locktite to hold the coupling nut but I couldn't find my tube of it.  So, for now, I'm just relying on having the coupling nut tight enough that it doesn't back out.
I have some 1/8" roll pins, but I'd have to use the old drawbar to hold the drill chuck in while I drilled for them.  Seems kind of like a step backwards (or at least sideways)

regards,
Leon


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## wawoodman (Nov 19, 2015)

wrmiller said:


> My original drawbar was wobbly in it's original flat bushing at the top of the spindle, which pretty much guaranteed the drawbar wasn't centered when tightened. With the original six-speed gearhead design, I don't think this was much of a big deal. But when I converted to belt-drive and VFD I am now capable of 5k plus spindle rpm so having things centered became a bit more important to me. So I made a flat-topped bushing that 'just' clears the spindle ID and drawbar OD. Noticeably smoother at higher spindle rpms.



Thanks. I may give that a try.


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## T Bredehoft (Nov 19, 2015)

Yes...it is an adult draw bar.  I'll have to whip something like that up myself.  Now if we could come up with a spindle lock instead of that flat stamped C wrench.


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## wildo (Dec 7, 2015)

T Bredehoft said:


> Now if we could come up with a spindle lock instead of that flat stamped C wrench.



I was watching a video on the Grizzly Go759 (which I understand to be near-identical to the PM-25MV) and the guy mentioned a Priest Tools spindle brake. Looks likely that it would fit the PM-25MV just fine. I'd link to it, but I need three posts to add links. (new here.)

http://www.priesttools.com/?product=spindle-brake-weiss-bf20-grizzly-g0704


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