# Need Some Help With Newly Acquired Atlas Lathe



## Anthony G (Jul 2, 2015)

Hello everyone. Nice to be part of your group.  I just bought my first home lathe, an Atlas, and am trying to find out some info on it.  The deal was right. Here's what I do know. It is a 10" with a 42" bed and it has Timken bearings in the headstock. I don't know the model number or serial number. There is no plate on the end of the lathe.  There is a LIGHTLY stamped number on the right front way: TV9603S. When I Google TV9603S I get no relevant results, so I don't know what this number is. I've been over the rest of it and cannot find any other relevant numbers, only some casting and/or specific part numbers and such. There's a raised "942" number on the inside of the bed casting between two ribs and a stamped "C" between two other ribs. I'd like to find out the tailstock spindle taper (which I believe may be a 2MT) and the headstock taper (possibly a 3MT) to get started so I can get some needed tooling for it. Also, I'd like to know what type of oil to use in the oilers for the bearings. I need to get a drill chuck w/ arbor for the tailstock and would like to get a set of collets (suggestions on best type appreciated) with closer. It came with a 3-jaw chuck, 2 four-jaw chucks, a face plate, numerous dogs, a complete set of change gears. It has the lantern style tool holder with a couple holders. I'd like to get a QC tool holder for it. I'd also like to get a steady rest for it someday, too.  I think this is enough to start. Help identifying this lathe would be greatly appreciated.  If any other info is needed, just ask.  Thanks for any help.


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## Kernbigo (Jul 2, 2015)

The model number should be at bed far end next to the lead screw support


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## Rangemaster1 (Jul 2, 2015)

For oil, look in the "Machine Accessories" forum.  The thread "Of Machine Oilers and Oil" may be some help.


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## plus1hdcp (Jul 2, 2015)

Congrats on the lathe!  I just purchased my lathe this past weekend.  I will be watching this thread to see what those more knowledgeable suggest.  I do believe 20W oil is recommended (non detergent).  Again, congrats.


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## brino (Jul 2, 2015)

Hi Anthony,

Welcome to the site!

Congrats on the nice looking lathe.

You say it likely has a MT-3 taper headstock spindle, that can be used with collets like this:
http://www.busybeetools.com/products/collet-set-mt3-11-pc.html
those are closed/tightened with a threaded rod used as a draw bar.

However, if the lathe has a threaded spindle nose, I have found these collet systems extremely useful:
http://www.bealltool.com/products/turning/colletchuck.php

The benefit over the Morse taper ones is:
1) they allow you to hold long work up to the size of the spindle thru-bore, as you do not have a draw bar limiting work depth, and
2) they release the work when you loosen the nut. With the collets that go inside the spindle bore you need to pound the draw-bar to drive the tapers apart

-brino

EDIT: those Beall sets are standard ER-32 collets, so you can get other sizes, metric, square, etc. ones too.


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## pdentrem (Jul 2, 2015)

The TV stands for Timken bearings and Vertical countershaft. The numbers are the serial number. 
What you have is a 10X24" lathe. You are correct on MT3 for the spindle and MT2 for the tailstock.
Pierre


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## Round in circles (Jul 2, 2015)

You may find that the tail stock bears a number on the front left end or at the rear end & if your very lucky this will also match both chucks , the chuck jaws as well as the face plate .
 My Sphere  lathe appears to be an Atlas lathe made in the USA in parts as it , "looks very Atlas "  & uses a lot of the same parts and was finished off in the UK around 1943  so it might be unique in this aspect


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## wa5cab (Jul 2, 2015)

In addition, your model number is TV42.  942C is the bed part number. The Serial Number is 9603.  Pierre explained the TV.  No one knows what the S meant.  

The correct oil to use is SAE 20 ND (AKA ISO 68) on everything except the gear teeth.  There you use a moderately tacky grease.  Some have recommended motorcycle chain oil.  And a few other things.  I have always used Lubriplate lithium based grease.


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## Anthony G (Jul 2, 2015)

Thanks to everyone for replying.

Kernbigo..................Thanks for the info, and although I understand that's where it should be, I have been over the lathe high and low and cannot find anything. The only number I did find was the TV9603S number, which I don't know whether is a Model or Serial number or neither.


RangeMaster1..........thanks for that info. I will check that out just as soon as I'm finished responding.

plus1hdcp................thanks for info on the 20W. I will be checking on that when I check out the thread that Rangemaster1 suggested.

brino.............I like that little Beall collet chuck. ER style is definitely in the running. I would rather find a reasonably priced 5C holder, though, since there are more options. The biggest thing right now is finding out what the tailstock taper is, which starts with finding out what lathe model I have. And I'm not 100% sure that the spindle taper is MT3. Nor am I sure that the tailstock is MT2.

pdentrem...............All great info. Thank you for confirming the spindle tapers and clarifying the TV number that is stamped on the front way. But, how did you arrive at 24" for the length? I measured the bed at 42"? Or, was that a typo?

Round In Circles...........I will inspect the tailstock more carefully and report back if I find (or don't find) any numbers. Thanks

wa5cab.........thank you. I ran it last night for a short time. I wanted to make sure the lead screw, the carriage, crossfeed, etc worked properly. The PO wasn't using the power feed. I had to install one gear, not sure what it's called (maybe "bull gear" or "drive gear"?) in order to power the screw. Everything seemed to work fine. I did liberally coat the gears with a grease I have on hand as they were completely dry. I had to clean them first. Now, knowing the right oil to use, I can lubricate the other critical points and feel better about running it. Thank you again for the great info. Is there any way by chance that you can ascertain the year of the lathe knowing it is a TV42 with a serial of 9603? I would just like to know, if it is possible to know.

Thanks to everyone again for the great info. I'm checking around right now for a drill chuck(s) and corresponding arbors for the tailstock. That is certainly first on my list. Next is probably a QCTP. Then maybe the collet chuck or closer and some collets. Who knows after that. Someday, in the distant future, I may fully restore the lathe. But that's off in the distance.

Another question I have is there any info/literature available for my lathe? I looked around a little on here, but didn't really find any.


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## Anthony G (Jul 2, 2015)

macernst said:


> hi this is my first post.
> i dont want to confuse anybody about what the s means, and dont want to take over this thread. i will start a new one about my new to me 9 inch lathe, yes nine. it has the serial number 4416 s. maybe it means the overhead drive. i mean drive on top of the spindle.
> excuse please my english, i am german.
> ernst
> ...


That's a really interesting looking Atlas. I like the guarding. What part of Germany are you from? My grandparents (mother's parents) were from Blankenese (spelling?). I have been there twice, but I was much younger.


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## Anthony G (Jul 2, 2015)

On a related note, I just came across a 5", 5C collet chuck at a website called Little Machine Shop. I can't post any links to it, yet, since I'm still new here and need 5 posts before I can. Has anyone had any experience fitting this collet chuck to their Atlas lathe? How much work is involved? Is the quality good? It's about $225+, which is a lot more reasonable than a Bison or something like that.


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## plus1hdcp (Jul 2, 2015)

Anthony,

I am in the same boat as you in looking for material.  I found out from wa5cab, who is extremely knowledgeable, that we need 30 posts to be able to view the information in the download stickies at the top of this sub forum.  I contacted Clausing Company and they sent me a copy of Atlas 10F - Series Parts rev 1.  This is a solid start on documentation with schematics but I believe the downloads section has rev 2.  Also refer to the Atlas MOLO sub forum, I found the version of the Manual of Lathe Operations which would be most applicable to my TH42 (again thanks to wa5cab).

Good luck


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## Anthony G (Jul 2, 2015)

plus1hdcp said:


> Anthony,
> 
> I am in the same boat as you in looking for material.  I found out from wa5cab, who is extremely knowledgeable, that we need 30 posts to be able to view the information in the download stickies at the top of this sub forum.  I contacted Clausing Company and they sent me a copy of Atlas 10F - Series Parts rev 1.  This is a solid start on documentation with schematics but I believe the downloads section has rev 2.  Also refer to the Atlas MOLO sub forum, I found the version of the Manual of Lathe Operations which would be most applicable to my TH42 (again thanks to wa5cab).
> 
> Good luck



Hey plus.................Clausing sent you an electronic copy I assume? Or was it paper/hard copy? Was there a cost for it? Not sure what the Atlas "MOLO" subforum is? Where is that located?


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## plus1hdcp (Jul 3, 2015)

Anthony G said:


> Hey plus.................Clausing sent you an electronic copy I assume? Or was it paper/hard copy? Was there a cost for it? Not sure what the Atlas "MOLO" subforum is? Where is that located?



Clausing sent me the electronic copy (PDF) at no cost. It is Rev 1 dated 1966 and looks to be the same copy that I was provided from a member on this forum.


History Of The Atlas Molo And Version Selection Chart (with Files Attached)

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/thre...on-selection-chart-with-files-attached.24714/

There are a copy of subtle differences in the MOLO depending upon your gear setup and the link above will help you decide the best for your machine.  I suggest you do your research and ask one of the more knowledgeable members to make sure you are on the right track.  From what I have seen, you can expect to spend upwards of 30-50 dollars for one of these.


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## Anthony G (Jul 3, 2015)

Thanks for the info plus1hdcp.


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## wa5cab (Jul 3, 2015)

All,

I wouldn't pay more that about $40 plus shipping for any copy of the MOLO other than a bona fide 1st Edition, which doesn't cover the 10F anyway.  There were just too many of them printed.  If anyone needs to find a MOLO and doesn't yet have access to Downloads, send me a PM with your email address and I will send you the two documents on it that will help you pick the right one (out of the total of approximately 33 editions that boil down to 9 actually different versions.

On the subject of getting PDF's of manuals or drawings from Clausing, there was a day or two ago a copy of a message from Jolene at Clausing posted on the Yahoo main Atlas Group.  It says that "Management" has decided to only supply hard copies sent through regular mail, and not for free.  If I can locate the message, I will post a copy here.


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## wa5cab (Jul 3, 2015)

Plus,

The June, 1966 10F parts list isn't Rev 1, even if Clausing called it that.  The actual Bulletin number is 10L-6.  So it was at least their Rev 5.    I have been using Rev and a number on the TIF and PDF copies of the 1966 edition to identify corrections and additions that I have been making.  Mainly adding things like missing screws, correcting drawings so that they look like the actual part, etc.  It suddenly dawned on me a few months ago that over the past couple of years, I had made corrections, additions, etc. to the document.  And there was no easy way to ID which version one was looking at.  That's when I started putting a revision number and date on the front cover and on the page with the change.  I am currently at Rev 3 but haven't yet changed out the copy in Downloads.


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## wa5cab (Jul 3, 2015)

Anthony G said:


> On a related note, I just came across a 5", 5C collet chuck at a website called Little Machine Shop. I can't post any links to it, yet, since I'm still new here and need 5 posts before I can. Has anyone had any experience fitting this collet chuck to their Atlas lathe? How much work is involved? Is the quality good? It's about $225+, which is a lot more reasonable than a Bison or something like that.



Anthony,

To use a 5C collet chuck, you have to have some 5C collets.  Each one covers a narrow diameter range of maybe about 0.030", or about +/- 1/64".  The 5C collet will cover up to a maximum of 1-1/16" diameter.  But to cover the range of 1/16" to 1-1/16", you need a set of about 64 collets.  Plus a collet chuck.  Unless you have specific need for collets to hold repeat work in, you'd be much better off initially putting your money into a better than average 3-jaw chuck and a good 4-jaw chuck.  If you ever have need of a collet for holding repeat work and the diameter is under 3/4" and the length is short, a 3MT collet and drawbar would be much cheaper.  If you need to hold longer work but 1/2" diameter or smaller, 3AT or 3C collets would probably be cheaper.  

I actually happen to have all of the above, but I'm something of a tool junkie and I have a 3-1/2 decade head start on you.


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## pdentrem (Jul 3, 2015)

Anthony G said:


> Thanks to everyone for replying.
> 
> 
> pdentrem...............All great info. Thank you for confirming the spindle tapers and clarifying the TV number that is stamped on the front way. But, how did you arrive at 24" for the length? I measured the bed at 42"? Or, was that a typo?



I was just referring  to the working size of the lathe. The 24" is the approximately maximum available distance between the centers. The 942 that is cast in the bed will be in other sizes 948 or 954 for example. The last 2 digits is the length of the bed in inches but the CtoC distance is 18" less than the bed. Atlas made 18, 24, 30 and 36" CtoC lathes which the 24 and 36" appear to be the most common. My current lathe has a CtoC of 40" but the bed length is approx. 68"

I have the same Atlas lathe pictured posted on my website, in the machining section. pierresplace.ca I sold the Atlas after about 20 years to finance the purchase of my current lathe which is a clone of the Jet BDB-1340A.

As for the QCTP, I used a Phase II in AXA size the next size up BXA is too big. You will likely have to machine a little bit of the hump off the top slide to clear the corners of the toolpost.
Pierre


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## spongerich (Jul 4, 2015)

IMHO, the first investment to make would be a QCTP.  Aloris or Dorian if money is no object.    I had a Phase II on my South Bend for a number of years and was extremely happy with it.    Use the money you save for a 3C collet set.


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## wa5cab (Jul 4, 2015)

Or 3AT.  I just bought another closer adapter to find out whether the sticking problem I always have with the 3C is the closer or the collet design.


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## Anthony G (Jul 5, 2015)

Thanks for all the responses. Regarding the collet chuck, I haven't finalized a decision. In one of my jobs, all we used were 5C collets. I know the size range of each collett is smaller, but the 5C are plentiful and I would most likely only purchase on an as needed basis. The chucks are more costly, but the collets are much less expensive. Honestly, I think the costs all work out to about the same regarding the total costs for 3C, 3AT, 5C, etc. sets. Another plus on the 5C is that since they are so common, there are more used sets available for sale. Like I said, though, I haven't decided yet.I also like the option of having larger size collets available (up to 1-1/16) if the need arises. 

I'm still looking for a good deal on a drill chuck and arbor. Aren't the new Jacob chucks all import now? I don't know if I can justify paying those prices for an import chuck, but I don't want to pay an arm and a leg for American made either.

I went on eBay looking at MOLOs. None of the ads for the ones I saw mentioned anything about what revision number they were.

Regarding an earlier post, I looked all over the tailstock with a headset magnifier for numbers, but found none.

A QCTP would be nice. Asnice as they are, I don't think an Aloris is needed. I'm not outfitting a Harrison lathe here nor am I running production. I'll probably settle for used or an import.


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## wa5cab (Jul 6, 2015)

Anthony,

OK on the collets.  But I would buy a good 3-jaw first.

My understanding is that someone bought Jacobs and closed the US manufacturing plants.  I wouldn't buy a new Jacobs chuck.  You can find good used ones on eBay if you are patient.  I've bought several.

The version numbers shown in the documents that I wrote are of my own creation.  Atlas did not mark anything printed before 1955 in any way that identifies what it is.  From 1955 on, you have the year and edition number.  Prior to that, you just have to know what questions to ask, and ask them.  The average eBay seller of a MOLO wouldn't recognize a lathe if it fell on him.  As I tried to explain earlier, If the edition that you need is one of those identified only by Copyright 1937, odds are exactly 100% that the seller is clueless.  You will have to ask the right questions and have a cooperative seller (most will be) in order to find the one you need.  There is one on eBay at the moment that is for the early Craftsman 12".  I have questions in on a second one.


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## plus1hdcp (Jul 7, 2015)

Taking the advice from wa5cab, I am patiently searching local second hand book stores for a MOLO.  Who knows when one might show up.  I must confess the act of being patient is tough but I have so much to learn that taking baby steps will most likely be beneficial.


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## wa5cab (Jul 7, 2015)

If you don't turn up anything locally, set up a search on eBay for Manual of Lathe Operations 1937.  Then be prepared to send a question each time one turns up asking what is in Part 7 - Threading.  The second current possibility on eBay turned out to be one of the 37V2/3's (nothing in Part 7).  The seller pulled the ad and is looking to see whether or not they have the loose supplement before re-listing it.


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## Anthony G (Jul 7, 2015)

wa5cab said:


> Anthony,
> 
> The version numbers shown in the documents that I wrote are of my own creation.  Atlas did not mark anything printed before 1955 in any way that identifies what it is.  From 1955 on, you have the year and edition number.  Prior to that, you just have to know what questions to ask, and ask them.  The average eBay seller of a MOLO wouldn't recognize a lathe if it fell on him.  As I tried to explain earlier, If the edition that you need is one of those identified only by Copyright 1937, odds are exactly 100% that the seller is clueless.  You will have to ask the right questions and have a cooperative seller (most will be) in order to find the one you need.  There is one on eBay at the moment that is for the early Craftsman 12".  I have questions in on a second one.



This sounds like a very difficult endeavor. I can see some big money being potentially wasted while trying to acquire a MOLO that actually corresponds to my lathe. 

Is there any (better) potential of getting a MOLO from Clausing, even if one has to pay for a hard copy from them? I really don't care whether or not it is an original. Reproduction is fine with me.


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## plus1hdcp (Jul 7, 2015)

Anthony,

PM me your email address as I can provide you a temporary fix until you can find a hard copy of the MOLO


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## Anthony G (Jul 7, 2015)

plus1hdcp said:


> Taking the advice from wa5cab, I am patiently searching local second hand book stores for a MOLO.  Who knows when one might show up.  I must confess the act of being patient is tough but I have so much to learn that taking baby steps will most likely be beneficial.



That would be the definition of patience. Is there any chance that one could have ended up in a library? Probably not I would assume. I guess I can't understand under what circumstances a library would end up with a manual to a lathe.


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## Anthony G (Jul 7, 2015)

wa5cab said:


> If you don't turn up anything locally, set up a search on eBay for Manual of Lathe Operations 1937.  Then be prepared to send a question each time one turns up asking what is in Part 7 - Threading.  The second current possibility on eBay turned out to be one of the 37V2/3's (nothing in Part 7).  The seller pulled the ad and is looking to see whether or not they have the loose supplement before re-listing it.



Thanks for that information. I will be keeping my eye out. I wish the guy I bought it from would have had some literature. Sure would have made things easier. I did ask him.

BTW, I'm still debating about the collets. Weighing the pluses and minuses of each type, that kind of thing. I totally understand the points you made in regard to the non-5C types and I really do appreciate the advice.


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## Anthony G (Jul 7, 2015)

wa5cab said:


> Anthony,
> 
> My understanding is that someone bought Jacobs and closed the US manufacturing plants.  I wouldn't buy a new Jacobs chuck.  You can find good used ones on eBay if you are patient.  I've bought several.



Even their Super Chucks? Weren't the models with an "N" in the model # the USA made ones? I can't recall the specific models at the moment.


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## wa5cab (Jul 8, 2015)

Anthony G said:


> This sounds like a very difficult endeavor. I can see some big money being potentially wasted while trying to acquire a MOLO that actually corresponds to my lathe.
> 
> Is there any (better) potential of getting a MOLO from Clausing, even if one has to pay for a hard copy from them? I really don't care whether or not it is an original. Reproduction is fine with me.



Anthony,

Time, yes or at least maybe (you may get lucky quickly).  But if you end up with two or three wrong editions, it's probably your fault.  You don't either bid or buy unless the seller properly answers all of your questions.

Clausing currently sells the 33rd edition.  For whatever reason, neither they nor Atlas ever sold earlier versions.  Ozark Woodworker sells good quality reprints of each of the major versions.  But their prices are at the high end of the usual price range for originals.  You are correct that it is easy to tie up a fair chunk of change.  When I was doing the research from which I wrote the version history and crib sheet, I bought about 20 volumes.  Early on before I learned what questions to ask and what versions there had been, I ended up with multiple copies of a couple of versions.  And now I know that there is one earlier version that no copies of have yet surfaced.  Just wish that I knew what color the covers was.

And for the benefit of anyone needing a MOLO who hasn't read the entire thread, the version numbers are my own creation.  They will mean nothing to Sellers.


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## jeep534 (Jul 8, 2015)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atlas-Lathe...332?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c9da390a4


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## Galane (Jul 8, 2015)

Another good resource for Atlas and Craftsman lathes is this Yahoo group. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/atlas_craftsman/conversations/messages


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## wa5cab (Jul 9, 2015)

Apparently (although the seller wasn't smart enough to add that information to his ad), the spiral-bound reprint with the black covers sold by Kerrymark is a copy of 37V4.


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## plus1hdcp (Jul 9, 2015)

wa5cab said:


> Apparently (although the seller wasn't smart enough to add that information to his ad), the spiral-bound reprint with the black covers sold by Kerrymark is a copy of 37V4.



Robert,

I examined the MOLO History Revision Document and compared that to the advertisement on eBay and could not figure out what version was being offered.  What tipped you off to the 37v4?


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## JimDawson (Jul 9, 2015)

Any idea what an original MOLO is worth?


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## wa5cab (Jul 9, 2015)

plus1hdcp said:


> Robert,
> 
> I examined the MOLO History Revision Document and compared that to the advertisement on eBay and could not figure out what version was being offered.  What tipped you off to the 37v4?


Erik,

They don't seem to show up today but yesterday when I looked at the ad (probably through some eBay glitch), a lot of questions and answers showed up down near the bottom.  I think what was showing up were all recent questions the seller had been asked, because only two of them applied to the MOLO.  But his answer to one of them was that on the first page of Part 7 - Threading it mentioned the Atlas F-Series Ten Inch.  Of course it might also be a scan of the 37V2/3 plus a scan of the 10F Threading supplement.



JimDawson said:


> Any idea what an original MOLO is worth?



Jim,

Typical prices over the past 18 months or so have been $25 to $40 plus shipping.  I bought quite a few versions.  The least that I paid was $12.81 and the most near $50.  But if I hadn't been in a hurry to get all of the key editions so that I could finish writing the Molo Content History, I wouldn't have paid that much.


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## larryr (Jul 15, 2015)

Anthony G said:


> Hello everyone. Nice to be part of your group.  I just bought my first home lathe, an Atlas, and am trying to find out some info on it.  The deal was right. Here's what I do know. It is a 10" with a 42" bed and it has Timken bearings in the headstock. I don't know the model number or serial number. There is no plate on the end of the lathe.  There is a LIGHTLY stamped number on the right front way: TV9603S. When I Google TV9603S I get no relevant results, so I don't know what this number is. I've been over the rest of it and cannot find any other relevant numbers, only some casting and/or specific part numbers and such. There's a raised "942" number on the inside of the bed casting between two ribs and a stamped "C" between two other ribs. I'd like to find out the tailstock spindle taper (which I believe may be a 2MT) and the headstock taper (possibly a 3MT) to get started so I can get some needed tooling for it. Also, I'd like to know what type of oil to use in the oilers for the bearings. I need to get a drill chuck w/ arbor for the tailstock and would like to get a set of collets (suggestions on best type appreciated) with closer. It came with a 3-jaw chuck, 2 four-jaw chucks, a face plate, numerous dogs, a complete set of change gears. It has the lantern style tool holder with a couple holders. I'd like to get a QC tool holder for it. I'd also like to get a steady rest for it someday, too.  I think this is enough to start. Help identifying this lathe would be greatly appreciated.  If any other info is needed, just ask.  Thanks for any help.
> 
> View attachment 106636
> View attachment 106637
> ...


i had the 12 inch version of this lathe some time ago. it served me well. there is a lot of info out there on atlas lathes. there are companies still supplying parts for them, check home shop machinist mag. vintage machinery.org has a pdf parts list on this. my lathe was 3mt in the headstock and 2mt in the tailstock. looks like you have a good inventory of change gears. the most popular is the 96 tooth and this was usually the first to break. charts for speeds and feeds and threading should be on the inside of the back cover. unless you have a very specific need for a collet chuck i would purchase a qc toolpost first, once you use one you will never go back. check out cdco machinery. collets in this machine wont be much more accurate than a good three jaw and not as accurate as a four jaw chuck. a steady rest is handy on a lathe of this size as you only have a 3/4 hole in the spindle. atlas published a great operators manual for this lathe. you used to be able to get from sears as well as repair parts. i'm sure with a little research you could probably find a copy. this should be a good little machine to learn on . check out all the machinists videos on utube. there is a lot of good info and these guys are always willing to answer your questions. best of luck.


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## wa5cab (Jul 15, 2015)

Larry,

Minor point but Anthony's machine is a TV42, which is a 10F.  It doesn't use a 96T gear.  Only up to 64T.  The 10D and back did use the 96T.  And the first 6 Craftsman models did.  So your 12" must have been one of those.

Also, Clausing (used to be Atlas) still sells some new parts for the Atlas built lathes and are usually cheaper than Sears (at least if they stock the part).  Clausing still sells copies of the Atls Manual of Lathe Operation.  But it is the 33rd edition copyright 1988.  Almost all of the tables are still the same but any machine specific drawings or photos will cover the final 12" version.  

Fortunately, used copies of the early version that best match the TV42 are available pretty often on eBay, and for around the same price as Atlas currently charges.  There is a sticky post at the top of this forum that partially addresses this and there are two .DOC files in Downloads with more details.


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