# New Qctp Hits Top Slide On My New Th54.



## 38Bill (Jul 7, 2015)

So I'm new at all this stuff but I just got done tearing down my new/old  TH54 and I'm getting it back together again. I purchased a Aloris type quick change tool post and I find that it slightly sticks out past the machined flat on the top of the tool post slide and hits the rounded top so it wont fit tight. I dont have a mill so I was wondering if a flat spacer just thick enough to get the qctp mounted high enough to clear the top of the tps would work. I dont know if by using a spacer it would screw up the quality of the cutting. Thanks.


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## kd4gij (Jul 7, 2015)

You can file it flat, use an angle grindre, or belt sander. I isn't that hard. Lots of folks on here have done that without a mill.


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## schor (Jul 7, 2015)

File will work. I used my drill press to mill mine out. Nor recommended but it worked.






Most of the time.


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## savarin (Jul 7, 2015)

schor said:


> File will work. I used my drill press to mill mine out. Nor recommended but it worked.
> 
> Most of the time.



When the tiny asian drill press was my only stand alone power tool I often used it for milling aluminium.
That chuck used to go spinning off into the void so often I epoxied it in place.
Its still there 20 years later and still works but I dont use it for milling any more.
If I ever have to remove the chuck I will throw away the drill and get a better one.


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## 38Bill (Jul 7, 2015)

I was thinking about filing it but I have a halfway decent belt/disc sander that I think I will try first. I just didnt want to start messing the old girl up if I didnt have to. The qctp will be a great addition. Thanks.


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## cdhknives (Jul 7, 2015)

I filed mine...twice because I was a bit short the first try and the corner of the QCTP still hit.  15 minutes max with good sharp files, start with a rough double cut and switch to a fine single cut when close to complete.  Search back...lots of threads about this conversion.

I have and use (in my knifemaking hobby) the heck out of a good belt grinder.  It is NOT the tool for this.  You want to keep the existing flats on the top of the compound flat and true.  Power sanding/grinding is going to be very hard to get the required flatness without taking off metal where you don't want...


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## wa5cab (Jul 7, 2015)

The hump on the back of the compound slide on the 10" is always a problem for both turret and QC tool posts.  None of the 12" have the problem.  

I would not use a belt sander unless the belt is only about 1" wide (usually called a strip sander).  And I would not use a disk sander.  You do NOT want to touch the existing machine flats.  If you happen to have a milling attachment, you can use that.  The compound slide and upper swivel will fit on the pintle of the milling attachment in place of the vise.  If you do not have a mill, milling attachment or strip sander, the only other safe way is a file.


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## Rob (Jul 8, 2015)

When I mill the top of mine I used the milling attachment as posted earlier.


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## wa5cab (Jul 8, 2015)

Rob,

OK.  Probably the problem with doing it the "easy" way is that unless someone is lucky enough to get a milling attachment when they bought their lathe, they don't acquire one until long after they've acquired a QCTP.  

BTW, you really need to go back and remove some more from the top of you compound slide.  You should be able to rotate your QCTP through 360 deg.  The correct way to position the QC for most operations is with the front parallel to the lathe axis.  As yours is sitting, you cannot use a boring bar or parting tool.  And cutters for both turning and facing will not be in the correct angular position.  It is fairly common to position the compound at 30 degrees (mine sits that way most of the time.  But to do so, you must still be able to position the the TP parallel/perpendicular to the axis.

BTW, I notice from your photo that you have a small boring table on your carriage.  I've only ever seen two of those come up for sale, and got outbid on both of them.


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## Rob (Jul 8, 2015)

wa5cab said:


> Rob,
> 
> OK.  Probably the problem with doing it the "easy" way is that unless someone is lucky enough to get a milling attachment when they bought their lathe, they don't acquire one until long after they've acquired a QCTP.
> 
> BTW, you really need to go back and remove some more from the top of you compound slide.  You should be able to rotate your QCTP through 360 deg.  The correct way to position the QC for most operations is with the front parallel to the lathe axis.  As yours is sitting, you cannot use a boring bar or parting tool.  And cutters for both turning and facing will not be in the correct angular position.  It is fairly common to position the compound at 30 degrees (mine sits that way most of the time.  But to do so, you must still be able to position the the TP parallel/perpendicular to the axis.



The first picture is the before I milled.  Did not have a after picture on me when I posted.



wa5cab said:


> Rob,
> 
> BTW, I notice from your photo that you have a small boring table on your carriage.  I've only ever seen two of those come up for sale, and got outbid on both of them.



I obtained my TSlot cross slide here.  http://www.statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/A-11.html  A couple of the problems with this cross slide is that it raises the compound and you can't easily set your compound at a angle.  My lathe is a 12".  I solved both problems by using a 10" compound and then making a raised button that I was able to mark the degrees on.  It is a big improvement on the lathe.  I notice that things are a lot more stable with it.


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## 38Bill (Jul 8, 2015)

OK so its a done deal. I used an air powered hack saw to rough cut and then touched up with a file. Oiled the flat top of the compound, laid the flat of the saw blade on it and cut away. It worked really well and didnt leave a single mark on the finished top. I knew I wanted to pivot the qctp so I cut far enough back to clear.  I also filed slightly deeper than the top so there would be clearance for any small junk that could interfere with the tool post when it is turned. This also allowed me to paint the work. Thanks for the help.


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## Rob (Jul 8, 2015)

Nice job.


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## stevemetsch (Jul 8, 2015)

Just use a spacer. A hardware store 1/8" thick one will do. If you are worried about flatness turn and bore one from brass or cold rolled steel sheet. Don't go crazy with your micrometer either, it is just a washer. I have used it for years.


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## wa5cab (Jul 9, 2015)

Nice work, Bill.


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## GoMopar440 (Mar 19, 2016)

I took the flat area on mine out quite a bit further because the top of the casting had been used as an anvil by one (or more) of the previous owner(s). I needed to take it down about .005 from the area over the T-slot to get all the dents and dings out. I continued milling it at that depth over towards the handle end until the worst of the hammer marks were removed. Now there's plenty of room for any QCTP or any other fixture I might want or need to mount up there.


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## wa5cab (Mar 21, 2016)

That's an operation that ought to be done to all Atlas 10" compound slides.  Too bad you didn't do it before the shiny new paint job.


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