# Stuck center in head stock



## MD-500man (Feb 22, 2014)

Hello everyone. I have a sears/atlas 618 model #101.21400 that I had given to me a couple of years ago, I am in the process of restoring the lathe and have a stuck center in the headstock spindle. I have placed a long punch through the spindle and tapped gently with a dead blow hammer and it just does not want to come out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
           Thanks in advance.    MD


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## Chucketn (Feb 22, 2014)

Penetrating oil, brass round, and big hammer. Be sure to put rags or something over the other end to catch it when it pops out and to protect the ways.

Chuck


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## MD-500man (Feb 22, 2014)

Chucketn:    The big hammer was the trick, after several good pops it came right out. I thank you very much for the reply!!!
                                MD.


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## Chucketn (Feb 22, 2014)

No problem, MD. Been there, done that, got the T-Shirt!

Chuck


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## GK1918 (Feb 22, 2014)

Now ya got it, and every time this is what ya gotta do - me, its a brass rod and a good wack we do this all the time


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## wa5cab (Feb 22, 2014)

One of the first accessories you should make for your machine is a center and adapter remover.  You can use brass if you have it but aluminum works as well and is cheaper.  For a 618, MK2 or the Craftsman equivalents  Use 1" dia. 2-1/2" longer than the spindle.  Turn all but 1-1/2" down to 1/2".  Bevel the three edges slightly.  Most of the time, you shouldn't need to use a hammer.  Just slide it part way into the spindle and use your left wrist to "whap" the center or adapter, catching it with your right hand.  For a 10" or 12", use 1-1/4" dia. 3" longer than the spindle and turn all but 2" down to 3/4".

Robert D.


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## PeteH (Feb 23, 2014)

Finally, don't leave centers -- or any MT fitments like arbors, boring heads, etc. -- in place after the work is done. The closely-fitting surfaces will stick in time.

Pop 'em out, oil-wipe the center/arbor/whatever, wipe out the bore.

Speaking from experience here, removing an arbor that'd been in place for at least 10 years. Took two weeks soaking with Kroil and giving it a gentle tap with a brass hammer every time I walked past the machine. At least I didn't wreck the bearings.


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## MD-500man (Feb 23, 2014)

Thanks again every one!!    Wa5cab I copied your tool directions and hope to be making that tool soon.  I still have to mount my motor and get new belts, I am trying to decide on a quick change tool post. I am considering the little machine shop Item #2486 4 piece set which is aluminum but also the #3048 set which is a five piece set for $30.00 more, although if I am correct it needs a spacer of 3/4 of an inch but since You have to machine your own t-slot that 3/4 inch spacer could be part of the t-slot (all one piece). Work and three training days this week will put the lathe on the backburner for a few days any thoughts on the Quick change tool post, I machine a lot of aluminum and some stainless steel for marine applications..
                                       MD


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## wa5cab (Feb 23, 2014)

I wouldn't personally buy the aluminum one.  And whatever you buy, get two or three additional turning and facing holders.

I think that you mean machine a T-nut.  That will be the case with many of them as there is no universal size.  But you can't make the spacer and T-nut all one piece.  Also, if it needs a spacer, I think I would consider it too small and buy the next larger size.  Just be sure to check that the mounting stud or bolt diameter isn't larger the the width of the T-slot on your compound.  Also, buy one with an inch-size and not metric stud (if you have an Atlas anyway).  Bad idea to mix metric and inch.  Too many sizes where the wrong family wrenches are close enough to go on and loose enough to damage either the wrench or the fastener.

Robert D.


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## francist (Feb 23, 2014)

MD-  you might double check your size expectations, I think the 3048 may be a bit large for your machine. I have the 2486 running on my 618 and it seems to be about right. The 3048 I think is made more for 9" machines (although I will stand to be corrected).

-frank


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## genec (Feb 24, 2014)

check to see if there weren't some chips in there of you could have raised a burr with a boring bar.


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## MD-500man (Feb 25, 2014)

Thanks for all the advice everyone, It is very appreciated. The next few days will be extra long work days at the old salt mine and this means no down time to work on the lathe.  I did say t-slot and did mean t-nut (on an earlier post ), knew what I wanted to say and typed the wrong thing, it happens more and more with this getting older business.
                                    MD


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