# Missing and Broken Gears for Lathe



## BruceNorEast (Sep 7, 2013)

My lathe has a broken worm-wheel gear for the power feed, and is also missing a gear and a shaft inside the apron.

It's a Jet 1024P (10") lathe, made in Taiwan in the 1980s (I think). I got it used from a factory that was closing, no information is available from the source. The manufacturer does not have any information, but I did find a couple of PDFs for the manual searching online - neither is exactly my machine, but close in most areas except the apron.

I'm not terribly worried about the brass worm wheel gear; fixing or replacing / making a replacement isn't too bad when you have the original part in hand. But the missing parts have been a show stopper. Best I can tell, it was some kind of idler gear and shaft (mounted between the lower shaft that's connected to the worm, and the clutch power feed gears - notice the space and hole in this area in the attached photos).

The parts diagrams from the manuals I've looked at don't show this assembly. It appears that the worm wheel gear shaft on mine is mounted much lower than others, resulting in a large gap - where an idler probably existed.

One thing that's really confused me here is that all of the other shafts have substantial support on both ends, yet the idler is supported on one end only without any shoulder from the casting (the casting wall is at its thinnest in this area). It appears like a design flaw on my model, that the other manuals show corrected (by moving all the worm parts up so the drive gear contacts the clutch gear).

I'd appreciate hearing anything helpful that you may think of.
Bruce.


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## Richard King (Sep 7, 2013)

You should also post a few pictures of the complete lathe as there were so many styles made and exact copies but sold by several companies.  You might get lucky if the design is the same.  Attach some more pictures.  It looks like it's the power transfer gear that runs the cross feed or saddle feed from the worm wheel on the outside of the saddle right?    Rich


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## RayMJr (Sep 7, 2013)

A close up of the plate on the end of the apron might provide a clue or two.

The apron may have been a transplant from a different, but similar machine.

I am not getting enough detail of the operation from the pictures, but have you considered that everything is there, just not assembled correctly?

Ray


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## swatson144 (Sep 7, 2013)

On the outside it appears very similar to my jet 1236 and it's 1024 cousin (share the same manual). Mine was made 6/83 and has a different feed selector lever, that I suspect came later than yours with mechanical lockout to prevent engaging both the feed and half nuts at the same time. I'm thinking yours is earlier and mine came from modified castings. Yours has more gears than I recall in mine.




I have been searching for dis-assembled pics of mine but no luck finding them. I may not have taken any. 

The manual for mine is in the downloads of this forum.

Steve


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## BruceNorEast (Sep 7, 2013)

Hey Guys, thanks for the quick response.

Richard, there must have been a transfer or idler gear that went between the worm wheel shaft and the power feed gear shaft. If you looks at photo "ApronGears" (the second of the new images), it's looking from the headstock side down into the apron. The first/large gear on the left is on the shaft that drives the carriage. The large gear on the top-right drives the crossfeed. The gear next to that is the clutch gear; center is neutral, it's currently in the carriage drive position - engaged with the leftmost gear which is also engaged with the large gear on the left. *But the drive gear, shown at the bottom is too far from the clutch gear above to do anything, it just spins freely.* The drive gear is on a shaft that comes out the back of the apron and has the worm wheel on it.

Ray, I've attached more photos, but I'm not sure if they'll help much. It does not look like there are parts from different machines here, everything lines up - there's just a missing object between the worm-wheel-shaft drive gear (on the bottom) and the clutch gear above it at the top. The worm gear rides a slotted shaft and is held in place by a plate that mounts to the bottom of the apron. It looks like other models have this attached to the back. This increases the distance between the shafts, apparently requiring an idler. There's no way that the existing shafts and gears go anyplace else than where they are, it's simply that something is missing. My guess is that someone crashed it, and the idler assembly came loose inside, possibly binding up when attempting to move the carriage manually - so someone took it out and left it that way.

Steve, at first glance it does seem similar to your lathe. But you have three shafts where I have only two, and the spacing between them on mine seems larger. The upper half-nut threading shaft is about halfway up the back of my apron, while the slotted power feed shaft is right about at the bottom. I don't think yours needs an idler like mine does, to bridge the extra distance/gap between gears.

Please note that the view from the back that shows the missing parts mounting hole is deceiving; it may seem that the distance between the gears is slight, but these gears are not aligned vertically - the bottom one is driven from the broken worm wheel seen in the foreground, but the upper gear is the crossfeed drive gear. The clutch gear that is aligned vertically can not be seen in this shot. Also note the interlock lever (that prevents the power feed from being moved out of neutral when the half-nuts are engaged) is partially blocking the hole, so any external support can only go up part of the way to allow the interlock lever free movement. This added to the confusion when I was trying to figure out what's missing, thinking maybe a plastic plug went there. But there's no getting around the need for an idler to transfer the power from the lower gear to the upper, unless maybe it was a belt? As lousy as it is (in my mind anyway), it had to have been an idler with a press fit shaft going into that hole, unsupported on the other end. Yuck!

Bruce.


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## swatson144 (Sep 7, 2013)

BruceNorEast said:


> Hey Guys, thanks for the quick response.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Bruce, that 3rd shaft is the fwd/off/rev switch rod since mine is the "S" model. It pretty much just passes behind the apron. Anyhow the lead screw and slotted shaft are ~ 2 1/4" CL to CL


Steve

- - - Updated - - -

oh, the link to the manual I mentioned is  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/vbdownloads.php?do=download&downloadid=241   if you didn't find it already.

Steve


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## Gerard (Sep 7, 2013)

Hello Bruce

I have the same problem with my lathe. Friday I was at work and suddenly my cross slide remained stationary. All the teeth of the worm gear were worn away. Today I phoned my supplier for a replacement part. He promised me that I would receive a new part at the end of the week. What we can do is, I measure the new worm gear and compare it with the size of your worm gear. When that is the same there is no problem to get a replacement part for your lathe.

My email address is gemonds@scarlet.be

I hope it will succeed  
Gerard


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## BruceNorEast (Sep 7, 2013)

swatson144 said:


> Bruce, that 3rd shaft is the fwd/off/rev switch rod since mine is the "S" model. It pretty much just passes behind the apron. Anyhow the lead screw and slotted shaft are ~ 2 1/4" CL to CL
> 
> Steve
> 
> ...



*Hi Steve*, thanks for the link and info, I do appreciate your efforts. 

I seem to be too new here to access the manual (lacking permission to the downloads section), but I'll keep trying.

Did a quick look with a ruler, mine is very close to 3" CL to CL.

*Any thoughts on how to create a replacement gear without the original*? (with just the two remaining gears that it should connect with to go by) As you can see in the images, it's difficult to measure between the gears inside the apron. I'll measure the distance between centers of the two remaining shafts and then remove them to measure the gears.



*Hello Gerard*, thank you for your kind offer to help with a replacement worm wheel gear. 

But my main problem is not the damaged brass worm wheel, but rather the missing gear and shaft inside the apron. 

And please note that I am just guessing that's what's missing based on  nothing more than inspecting the remaining apron assembly - I could be  way off.

Good luck to you!
Bruce.


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## RayMJr (Sep 8, 2013)

Hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks to me like the gear on the worm wheel shaft is different pitch than the clutch gear, which would mean that the idler would be compound (2 gears sandwiched together) gear.


Ray


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## Gerard (Sep 8, 2013)

Hi Bruce

I think the missing gear will not be a problem and I think I can help you. I have a lot of experience whit gears and making gears.
Have a look on the project "shaper" on my site

http://home.scarlet.be/mini-draaien-frezen

I have some drawings of the apron but I can't attaches them in this message. Can you send me your private e-mail
address so I can send them to you, or can you explain how I can attaches pictures in this message.

Because it is a machine that is made in Taiwan I suppose it is made in metric sizes. Then, the gears are also metric gears. 
First you must determine the module of the gears. You do this by dividing the outside diameter of a gear by 
the number of teeth + 2. You obtain a number 1 or 1.25 or 1.5. I think in this case it will not be greater. 
Measure the distance between centers of the two shafts. Then it is possible to  calculate the number of teeth of the 
missing gear, no problem. 
Once you have received the drawings we can easily correspond about it and tell you what you have to do.

Sorry for my linguistic blunders. I'm normally Dutch speaking.  

Gerard


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## Gerard (Sep 8, 2013)

Hi Bruce

I have found how to add attachment in this message. 

attached some drawings of a similar apron.

So far I can see on your pictures the shaft D with gear is missing.
Let me know the following information, preferably in millimeters.
Center distance of axes C and D
Center distance of axes E and D
Outer diameter and the number of teeth of gear E (3) 
or the outer diameter and the number of teeth of gear C (34)

If you can give me this information, I can calculate for you how many teeth the gear D (9) must have.

Best wishes and good luck

Gerard


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## comstock-friend (Sep 8, 2013)

Bruce,

I have an ENCO 1236 about like Steve's. I ordered a Asian Lathe 1024 / 1236 Manual from Ozark Woodworkers:

http://www.ozarkwoodworker.com/10-x-24-12-x-36-Metal-Lathe-Manual-JetEncoGrizzlyMSCAsian_p_764.html 

Nicely copied, but not very close to my lathe but very much like yours. Data in the manual is pretty light, and the drawings don't have part names except for the screws and pins and things you know what they are anyway. But, it appears your shaft and gears may be on the drawings. (The drawings are a mystery, they appear to be drawn wrong way around, half nut lever on left hand side, carriage traverse on the right, with the threading dial also on the right, maybe an OK artist with no mechanical sense...) I think your shaft and gears are bubbles 48 to 52. Bubble 48 is Jet p/n 3005, 51 is p/n 3006 and 52 is p/n 3004.

John Friend


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## BruceNorEast (Sep 9, 2013)

Sorry for the delayed response guys...

*Gerard*, That apron diagram is the closest I have seen - and it is the first to actually show an idler assembly! Unfortunately it is still not how my apron is constructed; in that diagram the location to mount the idler it is off to the side vertically (not between the upper and lower shafts), and also has a strengthening shoulder and holes for mounting screws to hold the idler shaft in place. On mine, the hole is vertically centered between the lower and upper shafts. Also, there is no shoulder or holes for mounting/securing the shaft.

But I really appreciate your efforts to help me, thank you! Also, I visited your site and love your shop and projects, very nice work!


*John*, thank you for your post. I am amazed at how many different arrangements there are for the apron on these units. That one, like most, does not have an idler.

If you look at this image, through the idler mounting hole you can see the lower gear that drives the idler. The gear that seems to be just above that is actually the crossfeed gear - it is up against the front of the apron, it is not lined up vertically with the driving gear on the worm wheel shaft seen at the bottom. If you look hard, you can just see the tips of the gear on the upper shaft that is lined up vertically with the bottom gear - this is the clutch gear that needs to be driven. So the idler is just a little bit smaller than the hole.


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## Gerard (Sep 9, 2013)

Hi Bruce

Thank you for the kind words about my site and projects.

I can imagine that your apron is not identical with the drawings I have sent you. As far as I can understand your explanation, it is indeed an idle gear that you miss.
Can you measure the center distance of the driven shaft to the center distance of the axis of the idle gear wheel and the diameter and number of teeth of the driven gear. or the above information from the input shaft. With this information the idle gear can be  calculated. How you make the shaft and locking them is not the most important case. It's just a matter of bridging the driving (input) gear and the driven gear with an idle gear. Is this correct. When so, send me the above information and I calculate for you the dimensions of that idle gear.

Gerard


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## Gerard (Sep 9, 2013)

Hi Bruce

Can you make a picture so I can see where the idle shaft must be fixed? On your pictures I can not see an other place as where the hole is in the backside, where the shaft can be placed. 

Thanks
Gerard


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## BruceNorEast (Sep 9, 2013)

Hi Gerard, thank you again for taking your time to help. Please do not feel any pressure or lose any sleep for me, this is just a hobby machine - there are no important jobs that must be completed here.

Please see the gear information below - the idler gear goes in the middle. This sketch is from behind the apron looking in, the same view as my previous image of the apron back with text markup, the bottom shaft has the broken worm wheel outside and the 32-tooth 1.885" O.D. drive gear inside. Note that my measurements are rough, and are in inches, the machine internally may be metric (it was made in Taiwan). The apron hole dimensions are given but not really important here.
Bruce.


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## TOOLMASTER (Sep 10, 2013)

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/vbdownloads.php?do=download&downloadid=229

this it?


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## Gerard (Sep 10, 2013)

Hello Bruce

Your drawing of the gears is fine. It is even more than I expected. The dimensions are fairly accurate so I could make the calculations easily. The center distance of the two shafts to the idle shaft  should be of course,the same, because the two gears both have 32 teeth.

Attached a drawing with on the left side your measurements and my calculations on the right side. I've also recalculated the dimensions in mm. (mm = inch x 25.4). The gears have a module of 1.5, which I already expected. The missing gear has 18 teeth. I hope that you could have enough information to make a new gear. I think the dimensions of the shaft can not be a problem.  

Good luck with that
Gerard


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## Richard King (Sep 10, 2013)

I am so proud of you guys helping each other.  It is so amazing how people 1/2 around the globe can be friends and help the way you are doing.  We really are a family and a bunch of friends.   Thanks Everyone, you're the best!!!  :goodjob:          Rich


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## BruceNorEast (Sep 10, 2013)

Richard, Gerard has been terrific!!! (I just worry that he isn't sleeping)

Thank you so much Gerard, I really appreciate all of your help, your time, and great advice - I was very discouraged about the power feed, figuring it would never work for that machine, but you've given me hope and confidence!

Thank you my friend.

PS: And thanks to all of you hobby machinists and pro's who chimed in, you all really are great people.
Bruce.


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## BruceNorEast (Sep 10, 2013)

Note for posterity: The OD of the lower gear shown is incorrect; it was actually 2.00", just like the top gear - exactly as Gerard determined inductively. 

I had accidentally measured the adjacent gears O.D. and noted that smaller value. Fortunately I did not make that mistake when counting teeth.
Bruce.


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## DAT510 (Dec 6, 2016)

Hi Bruce.

Did you every repair your power feed?  I recently acquired a Jet-1024P.  Today making some parts, I tried to engage the power feed and nothing.  I haven't pulled it apart yet, but you posting has been helpful.

Chris


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## seasicksteve (Jan 6, 2017)

BruceNorEast said:


> Sorry for the delayed response guys...
> 
> *Gerard*, That apron diagram is the closest I have seen - and it is the first to actually show an idler assembly! Unfortunately it is still not how my apron is constructed; in that diagram the location to mount the idler it is off to the side vertically (not between the upper and lower shafts), and also has a strengthening shoulder and holes for mounting screws to hold the idler shaft in place. On mine, the hole is vertically centered between the lower and upper shafts. Also, there is no shoulder or holes for mounting/securing the shaft.
> 
> ...



Going to try to resurrect this thread. I need to source the worm wheel that is pictured for my 1024p lathe. I could probably use the worm gear as well. Does anybody have a manual that lists the PNs? Are parts still available if so where do I look? Any help would be appreciated


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## kvt (Jan 6, 2017)

No but one that may help is the http://www.grizzly.com/products/g9249/parts that someone posted on somewhere in the forum.  It is not a 10x24 but parts work for some of them   I have a Taiwan made 10X24 and have got a couple of parts that fit.


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## DAT510 (Jan 7, 2017)

Hi seasicksteve,

As Ken mentioned above, the Grizzly G9249 is the closest lathe to the Jet 1024P, where parts are still available.  I've purchased some threading gears for my 1024 and are spot on.  Based on your post, it looks like you might be trying to repair your Power Feed?  I'm in the same boat, with my recently acquired Jet 1024.  It appears a common issue with the 1024, I suspect because the lathe doesn't have an auto-stop and the carriage crashed under power.

In the download section you will find a number of manuals I've loaded for versions of the 1024/1236 lathes under some of their different manufactured names.
Here's the link:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/categories/jet.636/

So far, I've found two different versions of the 1024.  

Early versions (1970's ?) have the Half Nut lever on the Left Side of Carriage.  (The Lam-350BH manual covers this one)

Later versions (1980's+) have the Half Nut Lever on the Right Side of the Carriage. (The Tida, Grizzly and Jet Manuals posted cover this model).

The Grizzly sells the worm gear and other gears, I have not had my carriage apart yet.  But looking at parts drawings, and other postings (http://www.yuriystoys.com/2013/02/jet-1024p-lathe-apron-cleaning.html) Jet appeared to use tapered pins to hold the gears on.  The Grizzly G9249 Part Drawings, look to show a keyed gear and shaft with an axial bolt keeping the gear from sliding off the shaft.

One question I've had..... Is it possible to upgrade to the G9249 type shaft and gears?  I've considered purchasing the shaft P/N 339, as it's the cheapest part, to see if it will fit, and if so then purchase the gears.

Hope this helps,

Chris


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## seasicksteve (Jan 7, 2017)

My apron is the same as the one in post 13 by Bruce, the brass worm wheel is what is failing almost the same as the one pictured sans missing teeth. The model I have has a drive shaft and a lead screw. The drive shaft powers the feeds on the apron via a worm that interfaces with the worm gear shown in the post. The worm is captivated in a bracket that bolts onto the bottom of the apron and the drive shaft runs through the center of the worm and is keyed together. It is not the same as the one pictured in Yuris posts, that is the model that only has the lead screw to thread and drive the apron it also has the worm bracket bolted to the back of the apron not the bottom. I will review the resources you have linked and see if I can find something that will work. I hope I ca find something


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