# Sb 10 X 24 Hd Tool Room Lathe Q's



## kennyv (Aug 1, 2015)

Hey Guys how abouts a lil welcome . Some of you guys may already know but recently I had purchased a SB 10x 24 Heavy . Something I always wanted so right now im a happy camper .

First Q can anyone tell me the year by Serial #13832 RKX16 if they know in fact if this model has flame hardened ways ?
Was told X in suffix can mean that but also read X and letters # following mean this model came with other options.

All tooling shown came with lathe . Pics are after she was cleaned up. She runs like a champ ... ways in good shape,  headstock , motor pulleys gears  feeds gear box, gears , gibs   all remarkable . Ran dead  nuts  with collets Tir ..less than .0005 . Motor is smoothe and all engagements , free spinning spindle  back gear all check out good too.  Spindle bearings were  in great shape .  Few nights ago put a few hours in her oilen her/ cleaning up dialing in.. I must say the only thing that sweaks is the Tightness of Main drive belt lol.

The only part that I see I may need to replace NEW is a new brass cross feed screw nut .. other than that cant find any thing to replace . and the only thing I did not look into was engagement feed lever. I dunno if that can be adjusted and haven't dug further anyone know how she engages and what to look for adjust? She goes in SMOOTHE but feels like she can be adjusted for more room or something. Been long time sinceI fixed adjusted ripped a carriage apart > Is there an adjustment for this?

Also do you guys know of a good source to buy that cross feed brass nut . I found one on ebay not sure if this is good deal or a trustworthy source ?
thanks in advance for any help and advice 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191639255504?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


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## wrmiller (Aug 1, 2015)

Nice lathe!


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## aametalmaster (Aug 1, 2015)

Nice find...Bob


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## Silverbullet (Aug 1, 2015)

Good looking machine, cleaned up and ready to get dirty. OR is she gona be ready for a paint job ? Have fun with your new lathe , make some chips. Have any projects lined up . Made any test cuts , great little lathes .


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## the gentleman (Aug 1, 2015)

THAT MY FRIEND IS A FINE MACHINE !!!!!


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## old_dave (Aug 1, 2015)

According to my copy of _Serial Number Reference Book_, serial number 13832R was built in 1963. Flame hardened bed ways are shown as an option in my 1966 SB catalogue.  Maybe it was an option in 1963. My 1979 heavy 10 had flame hardened ways; by then it was standard. It had a plate riveted to the side of the bed at the tailstock end that said "Flame Hardened". Don't know if that was the practice in 1963, assuming this was available as an option.
David


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## old_dave (Aug 1, 2015)

Nice looking lathe by the way with a very nice lot of tooling. I think you are fortunate to have gotten a four jaw chuck along with everything else. That looks like a BXA sized tool post. Is it? You can order a "Serial Number Card" here: http://www.grizzly.com/brands/south-bend-lathe/serialcard. This _may_ include information as to what accessories and options your machine had when originally shipped. Can anyone confirm this?
David


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## kennyv (Aug 1, 2015)

thanks guys  ..1963 ayy  is that a  confirmation ?

well if it is  I don't exspect flame hardened ways else it would boast it say it  no?

someone said X meant  that what I means   however  with   serial # 13832 RKX16
that meant anything after x was option I guess that could meant  anything like accessories  no?

*ok need to ask again anyone have an idea if the light  feel  on feed lever is normal  and if  their is an  adjustment for it  ?*
what it feels like you need  more travel in engagement  throw  or room another words it only moves a fraction  to engage  hope that makes sense ?

Ohh no paint job  as of yet I like the way she looks half bare half painted ...   ..no jobs lined up either besides some shop  tooling  ..I need some ideas of how im gona get some work??????  

 midlife crises ,Job going no where , cut over time  and  a wife goin thru mentalpause


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## kennyv (Aug 1, 2015)

old_dave said:


> Nice looking lathe by the way with a very nice lot of tooling. I think you are fortunate to have gotten a four jaw chuck along with everything else. That looks like a BXA sized tool post. Is it? You can order a "Serial Number Card" here: http://www.grizzly.com/brands/south-bend-lathe/serialcard. This _may_ include information as to what accessories and options your machine had when originally shipped. Can anyone confirm this?
> David



thanks Dave   I am very blessed to have found my  little buddy  .. Its an AXA and I have just received  a bunch of oversized holders for it ..I have about 5- on hand  and  I am going to make a few as well it will give me over 12 tool holders ill be set for everything   .  so what does registration serial  #  get ya   ..? anything special ? If  folks just like to do it to have their name model # some where  well I dunno  maybe cuz  I don't eve  fill out most warrantee cards.  thanks again Dave  for complements shes a nice machine ill say ..I need to confess was going to get a new  10x22 and the Lord lead me to this one instead ...   Boy  im so glad he knows whats best if we would just be patient and trust him . always works out better in the Long run...


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## old_dave (Aug 1, 2015)

Look here: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1617/3463.pdf

About page 11 of the PDF has instructions for adjusting the clutch lever for the feeds.
I don't know what all you get with the serial card. I'm hoping someone here has done it and can tell us.
David


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## kennyv (Aug 2, 2015)

old_dave said:


> Look here: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1617/3463.pdf
> 
> About page 11 of the PDF has instructions for adjusting the clutch lever for the feeds.
> I don't know what all you get with the serial card. I'm hoping someone here has done it and can tell us.
> David


thank you ill look into it.

 Also do any  you guys know of a good source to buy that cross feed brass nut . I found one on ebay not sure if this is good deal or a trustworthy source ?
thanks in advance for any help and advice 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191639255504?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


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## DoogieB (Aug 3, 2015)

Most of the time the screw is worn out as well.  Check the backlash at the edges of travel and compare with the middle.


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## kennyv (Aug 5, 2015)

DoogieB said:


> Most of the time the screw is worn out as well.  Check the backlash at the edges of travel and compare with the middle.



thanks ill check it out afta I get the  new nut .... where  is good  resource to order up brass nut ?


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## DoogieB (Aug 5, 2015)

Unless you buy the nut and screw as a pair, you have no guarantee that you will get a good, precision fit.  I have a 10K not a 10L, so I'm not sure sure who is providing parts or screw rebuilds for your lathe.  Ebay or google...

How much backlash is in the crossfeed?


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## kennyv (Aug 6, 2015)

DoogieB said:


> Unless you buy the nut and screw as a pair, you have no guarantee that you will get a good, precision fit.  I have a 10K not a 10L, so I'm not sure sure who is providing parts or screw rebuilds for your lathe.  Ebay or google...
> 
> How much backlash is in the crossfeed?


 there is noticble  back lash only in cross feed  .. that's why I am replacing.  Kinda don't have to measure .. can feel it dialing back  out afta feeding in. I believe  A new one will  perform  juts fine . Worked on  many machines that had +.020 +.030 or more  back lash and still turned jobs out to +- .0005 ...  Now I don't mean to sound like smart a... but  JMHO the nut is made to wear that is why you replace the nut and or can adjust them as well . CNC machines use ball screws and still have  back lash compensation in the programs as well as tool length/ tool daim compensations for tool wear . I am not an expert by any means  however backlash is no different than learning to read and use  you measuring instruments . If ya already know and experienced this than you are aware ..if not than perhaps  ya may have  learned something  that comes with working knowledge of the equipment you  may work on.


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## aametalmaster (Aug 6, 2015)

http://millermachineandfabrication.com/products.html#southbend has nuts, shafts, spindle bushings and other parts...Bob


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## DoogieB (Aug 6, 2015)

Yeah, I know about how to deal with backlash and how SB's crossfeed setup works, but I see I'm wasting my time here.  Good luck!


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## kennyv (Aug 6, 2015)

DoogieB said:


> Yeah, I know about how to deal with backlash and how SB's crossfeed setup works, but I see I'm wasting my time here.  Good luck!




thanks
I know im not too good at typing or articulation maybe I should have explained it in detail . hec I furgot about the matching pitch tooo . ..


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## kennyv (Aug 6, 2015)

aametalmaster said:


> http://millermachineandfabrication.com/products.html#southbend has nuts, shafts, spindle bushings and other parts...Bob


thanks bob  .. I see pretty much  same price as the nut job guy  on e bay ... ya think both of these guys are making  their own and marketing them?
 if so  so why didn't we think of that first ?


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## kennyv (Aug 10, 2015)

Been busy workin getting shop in order getting my girders back together, seems I have to fix this to fix that modify this to get that going . All WIP . Making ready for the New mill to arrive . Soon ill be at 100% . Gota get the refurnished band saw back together too...lol.. 
Moved my lathe into position last week still have to drop down the leveling mounts to be official.y in place . However yesterday was “Rock and Roll”

Spend time first time with my new lathe on Sunday. Turned a few things one spacer for girder and had to bore out some hardened washers to fit an arbor . No pics unless I have to post them . Ok I have some great news. Man I am one happy camper with this lathe . In the last few weeks been getting all my tooling together ,now all the maintenance has been done as well. Yesterday before I did my work I decided to redial in the spindle bushings . Took everything apart cleaned and reassembled . Than I proceeded to check for runnout as I started to assemble . Took readings prior and after the adjustments . After reassembly and adjustments she was . “Dead Nuts” , “Spot on” as Sr. used to say “ _BULOVA “ and ill say she is “****” No spindle run out . None Nata That puppy is running so smooth the indicator needle is barely vibrating. Than I proceeded to do fulcrum test and got about . 0005 run out . Im ok with that for now. Jmho no reason to make things too tight and create excessive ware. _

_ To date I have never dialed in south bends spindle bearings. Not sure what is proper protocol. Right now I still have one .002 on each mounting bolt . On the procedure for adjusting it say you can remove one shim from one side . But id like to hear from one of you SB owners before going any further . _


_ If anyone knows what proper protocol is please explain in better detail thanks allot _

_Kenny V_

_._


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## kennyv (Aug 16, 2015)

Been busy as hec at work only spent a little time in garage however turned out a few small lathe projects that I needed to get other machines up and running .. all I hav to say is this lathe is top shelf all I attempt to do the lathe does what its supposed to do .. Btw after I dialed her in can not find anything to fix .. Adjusted the brass bearing shims on spindle no need to buy a new spindle .Did a full head bearing adjustment less than .0002 TIR now .

, the lathe is smooth very ez to work on ... Its been a dream to finially have a functional lathe in my home .One happy camper thanks so much guys


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## comstock-friend (Aug 21, 2015)

kennyv said:


> _To date I have never dialed in south bends spindle bearings. Not sure what is proper protocol. Right now I still have one .002 on each mounting bolt . On the procedure for adjusting it say you can remove one shim from one side . But id like to hear from one of you SB owners before going any further . _
> 
> _ If anyone knows what proper protocol is please explain in better detail thanks allot _
> 
> _Kenny V._



South Bend H-4 Bulletin, starting page 15 in the stickies above:

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/some-useful-sb-bulletins.28640/

John


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## kennyv (Sep 17, 2015)

thanks guys... very happy with the lathe so far the only thing I needed to replace  is the cross fed nut. all else was adjustments  now  in perfect working order
  had a few Q's  for ya south bend owners .
I have a type L head stock the only accessories that  didn't come with lathe was  spindle sleeve dead headstock center. .  right now I am looking to purchase one . From what I see in the  assembly drawings  its optional  to  use  either the MT2 or MT3 on this model   depending on the bushing  you get .

*does anyone know what size the large taper is on the spindle itself is ?  is it MT4??*


*Q#2
***** also any tip******* on how you guys go about taking off the nose cone / chuck/ face plates  when they are  stubborn?*
I been putting a rubber wedge and putting in back gear but don't like to do that if I can avoid it . Is there a spot to wedge a block of wood that is better off  and avoid damaging back gear teeth  ?


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## T Bredehoft (Sep 17, 2015)

Engagement Clutch?  is that he third from the right on the saddle?  hold straight out and turn clockwise  one rev, check for adjustment, repeat until good.  nobrainer.


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## dlane (Sep 17, 2015)

If I recall correctly lift test should be between .0007--.001 ,end play the same.  Should be in stickies ,If u pull spindle prob should get new capillary felt oilers , eBay has them
Nice Heavy 10 L by the way


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## kennyv (Sep 17, 2015)

thanks  everything is working fine/ dialed in. This  was my original post all original q's answered
Todays post I had asked

*Q#1*
*does anyone know what size is the large taper in the spindle  is to purchasing  a spindle sleeve for a dead center 
'
Q#2
***** also any tip on *******  how you guys go about taking  off   stubborn nose cone / chuck/ face plates  without putting in back gear ? Thanks *


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## Andre (Sep 17, 2015)

Large spindle taper is a 4.5 MT is I'm correct, proprietary to South Bend. Look on eBay. 

I remove my chucks, faceplates, and spindle nose fitting by engaging the back gear, it shouldn't hurt anything unless you really jam something on there. You can unscrew your spindle nose pullet/thread protector using a pin spanner or 3.5" oil filter ratchet wrench. Get one of the self tightening steel band ones

On your machine it looks like someone tried to pry up one of the bearing caps without removing the expamder screws, especially on the rear bearing. make sure your expanders aren't pulling through the sleeve when tightening them. 

If you pull the spindle, flush the oil pots/reserviors and either clean the existing wicks or get new ones. Make sure the springs aren't broken and the wicks are not only wicking oil but is contacting the spindle itself. Since the expanders stick with the spindle on removal, you have to line the hole in the bottom of the sleeves with the wick when putting the spindle back. There is a trick to doing that but I forget it at the moment. 

If the carriage ways above the QCGB (where the carriage can't reach) have scrape marks, you have a soft bed. If they are ground, you have a hardened bed.


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## dlane (Sep 19, 2015)

I noticed a rope looking seal in front of the large bearing , is that original or a add on , mine dosn't have that. But a good idea. Do others have that ?.
Thanks
'


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## Andre (Sep 19, 2015)

dlane said:


> I noticed a rope looking seal in front of the large bearing , is that original or a add on , mine dosn't have that. But a good idea. Do others have that ?.
> Thanks
> '


That is not original.


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## compsurge (Sep 21, 2015)

kennyv said:


> thanks guys... very happy with the lathe so far the only thing I needed to replace  is the cross fed nut. all else was adjustments  now  in perfect working order
> had a few Q's  for ya south bend owners .
> I have a type L head stock the only accessories that  didn't come with lathe was  spindle sleeve dead headstock center. .  right now I am looking to purchase one . From what I see in the  assembly drawings  its optional  to  use  either the MT2 or MT3 on this model   depending on the bushing  you get .
> 
> ...



Make sure your spindle and chuck threads are clean before installing. You can put the lathe in back gear and use a shaft in the chuck jaws to break it loose. I don't make many changes, but I keep my threads clean and put a little WD-40 and wipe them down before and after install. I find it takes a minimal force to remove the chuck.

As for the collet holder, use a dowel/broom handle/drawbar and lightly tap it through the spindle bore to break the taper.

I also noticed in your photos you checked spindle runout using the thread protector? You may want to test using the spindle bore, as this is what matters when it comes to runout. Any exterior surface does not affect the alignment of work.

Did you perform a lift test as per the South Bend manual?


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## kennyv (Sep 21, 2015)

Andre said:


> Large spindle taper is a 4.5 MT is I'm correct, proprietary to South Bend. Look on eBay.
> 
> On your machine it looks like someone tried to pry up one of the bearing caps without removing the expamder screws, especially on the rear bearing. make sure your expanders aren't pulling through the sleeve when tightening them.


not sure i see what you saw .. can ya explain ?



> If you pull the spindle, flush the oil pots/reserviors and either clean the existing wicks or get new ones. Make sure the springs aren't broken and the wicks are not only wicking oil but is contacting the spindle itself. Since the expanders stick with the spindle on removal, you have to line the hole in the bottom of the sleeves with the wick when putting the spindle back. There is a trick to doing that but I forget it at the moment.








Now  i did not  plan on anytime soon pulling spindle  everything is running nice and smooth from what i read saw and tested no need to add take away and shims for the spindle bearings. Note  after i readjusted them correctly there is zero runout .

What id like to ask follow up to something you mentioned bout the wicks and filler cups  how can i make sure the spindle bearings are getting properly lubricated ? thanks


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## kennyv (Sep 21, 2015)

compsurge said:


> I also noticed in your photos you checked spindle runout using the thread protector? You may want to test using the spindle bore, as this is what matters when it comes to runout. Any exterior surface does not affect the alignment of work.
> 
> Did you perform a lift test as per the South Bend manual?



  Btw  I checked TIR every which way inside diam   spindle bore ect.......she is dead nutz zero after readjustment .
Na didn't do a SB test at the time  (recently read about that one tho ) However  I did a test an ole timer gave me  ( fulcrum test under heavy load)  here is exert from my original post

_ Took readings prior and after the adjustments . After reassembly and adjustments she was . �Dead Nuts� , �Spot on� as Sr. used to say � BULOVA � and ill say she is �****� No spindle run out . None Nata That puppy is running so smooth the indicator needle is barely vibrating. Than I proceeded to do fulcrum test and got about . 0005 run out . Im ok with that for now. Jmho no reason to make things too tight and create excessive ware. _


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## Andre (Sep 21, 2015)

On SB bronze sleeve bearings, there is a bearing cap then the brass expanders. If you don't remove the screws holding the expanders before lifting the bearing cap the brass wedge expanders will pull through the sleeve. It's not supposed to pull straight up, it's meant to slide out the side. If everything is working fine your in the clear.

Do you mean zero runout or zero flex in the spindle? There should be around .0012" flex in the spindle, enough for a theoretical .0006" constant oil film around the spindle. If it doesn't flex at all, you need to loosen the bearing caps a little. You test flex by inserting a broomstick into the spindle, then 12" out from the spindle nose pull up with 75 pounds of pressure. With your dial indicator on the spindle nose, it should read .0012" or so. Do the same for the rear bearing, then snug up your thrust bearing.


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## Andre (Sep 21, 2015)

I just saw your second post, if you have .0005" flex in the spindle things are too tight. If you meant .005" flex, the you need to tighten things down.

Tightening the bearing cap might sound like it will receive excess wear, but you need a tighter clearance than that to get your *Perfect* hydrostatic oil film. In a perfect world, bronze bearings when properly lubricated and adjusted never wear when running, only on startup/rundown. Same with babbitt. In the real world you won't get everything perfect, but the closet you get the better.

Too tight or too loose bearing cap prevents the ideal hydrostatic film from taking place, and causes wear. From what I understand, .0012" flex using SB's test is ideal.


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## kennyv (Sep 23, 2015)

Andre said:


> Do you mean zero runout or zero flex in the spindle? There should be around .0012" flex in the spindle, enough for a theoretical .0006" constant oil film around the spindle. If it doesn't flex at all, you need to loosen the bearing caps a little. You test flex by inserting a broomstick into the spindle, then 12" out from the spindle nose pull up with 75 pounds of pressure. With your dial indicator on the spindle nose, it should read .0012" or so. Do the same for the rear bearing, then snug up your thrust bearing.


Too tight or too loose bearing cap prevents the ideal hydrostatic film from taking place, and causes wear. From what I understand, .0012" flex using SB's test is ideal.[/QUOTE]

 thanks for details  yea I meant  zero  spindle run out , and . 0005 run out with fulcrum test
  test with block of wood  and that is with 4' crow bar with bout  #75-125 lbs    yes I did read about SB broom stick method  after I performed dialing in and fulcrum  test . my guess ill have  darn near close  .0012 total run out and ill be fine wheres shes at  to have  ideal hydrostatic film

 the thing I had in question was the oiler cups  for spindle  I though you were referring to  the whicking .
One Q I have is how do you know if you do have  proper whicking in the oiler cups  is ther any way to tell if the spindle bearings are getting  properly lubricated ? thanks


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## Andre (Sep 23, 2015)

The oiler cups lead to a large internal reservoir, then there are spring loaded wicks inside the reservoir that push against the bottom of the spindle. Remove the top bearing cap, expander, and center felt block. Turning the spindle by hand you should see a constant oil film around the spindle, if it is not wet all the time when spinning by hand something is not right. 

With the bearing caps on and adjusted,  the spindle should still turn freely by hand.


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## kennyv (Sep 24, 2015)

THANKS  i  think i may  want to take all apart clean and re adjust  to have a piece of mind that my oiler holes are clear and the spindle bearings are getting properly lubricated .

 i do have a further Q if ya dont mind  thanks  

 i am confident the spindle is running true however  i noticed last night  in a drilling op that  i may have end play on the spindle shaft. . How much end play is acceptable once the spindle bearings are running true?



according to the maintain procedure i am using this (scroll down to 4-5-65)  SB 10 heavy lathe 
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1617/3463.pdf


 it is saying to have 3/8 circular measurement B/T the take up nut and thrust bearing  Can you please explain little better the adjustment procedure  and what is correct end play  thanks 

also once i have this all apart  cleaned ect....... will i be able to re use put back the spring loaded wicks?

thanks so much Andre i appreciate  sharing your knowledge.  Again i guess if i  go through the trouble of  taking apart , checking readjusting and maintaining ill have peace of mind on my  brand new used  machine.

Kind regards
Kenny V


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## dlane (Sep 24, 2015)

When I refurbished my heavy ten I replaced all the felt wicks in machine. You can get just the
spindle wicks on eBay they are not expensive, mine were pretty crusty. I would flush out the reservoir
While your at it for piece of mind. I was able to turn oil cup cw just enough to remove top plug for cleaning and wire insertion to hold down wick during reassembly and then turn back up, it dosn't leek.
I set my end play to .001, but I upgraded to outboard roller bearings.
Hope this helps


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## kennyv (Oct 5, 2015)

Hey Guys  did some maint on my lathe over the weekend  adjusted the clutch for carriage feed/ cross feed . Re- adjusted the take up nut correctly no more end play in spindle .

I already had adjusted my spindle bearings however want to take all apart again to make sure she is oiling correctly . that i will  next  before i do any projects on the lathe . Thanks all again for your help . THANKS ANDRE  ....... Makes allot of sense in the info u had shared .  next ill re adjust  spindle bearings again  this time i  will  check/ make sure the bearing are getting constant oil film . If not guess ill remove spindle and change the capillary oilers .


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## kennyv (Oct 12, 2015)

Hey guys quick update , first id like to thank you for all the help . Spent some time re adjusting spindle bearings this time making sure the bearing were getting sufficient oil. And now of course ideal hydrostatic film from taking place upon the bearing and spindle.
Btw just acquired the lathe a few months back upon bringing home did take F/R spindle bearings caps apart once cleaned and flushed oil tubes. She seemed to work fine w/ front rear spindle test ( as per SB recommendation) with in .0015-.002 . However I suspected something wasn't right bc the front bearing was getting warm. So last week I took her all apart again to re inspect re adjust. Well I got myself in lil trouble after taking apart re cleaning everything as I was not able to get spindle to turn freely without a drag now . Note : (This time I did nothing) Did not take any shims out /add change O boy spent some time installing/ re installing bearing caps,cleaning everything . Note : ( Yes each time removing expander screws before bearing cap screws ) . AND opposite order for reinstalling. Long story short had to remove the spindle assembly . Yea had to peek too, ; ) wanted to inspect spindle bearing surfaces,see what shape the oilers were in.

Well upon inspection noticed spindle was remarkable , the rear oilier was fine but the front side was smutzed a bit , lil goopy prob from siting so long . . Here is what I did to get out of trouble. Cleaned the top of felt a bit ,expanded the spring some. Flushed out all oil tubes breathers ect .

Cleaned EVERY THING upon re Assembly . This time re installed spindle F/R bearing caps with better luck . However Took 2-3 attempts to get spindle to move freely upon adjustments . Finally had success by lifting up gently on spindle bearing as I hand tighten tightened the screws . Check /re check.

Than proceeded to snug bearing caps , check spindle to rotate without drag. When I was able to torque tight while spindle freely rotated . believed I had bearings in proper position . Than I was able to properly adjust bearing expander screws . Re checked spindle run out F/R readjusted to be within .001-.002 and  bata bing all set.  As far as shim did NOTHING on the large bearing however took a .001 shim out of rear w/ about .0025-.003 .lift test ( ill leave it that way for now) than readjusted take up nut and was done .
This ordeal was fun, It all makes sense now after going though the process/ learning about how the south bend bearings are properly adjusted. Now I see these bearings are very well designed . At first I did not like em . After first adjustment I liked em But. than than after having issues didn't like em. In the end the entire process /adjustments maintenance I see in fact they they are an excellent design . A little tedious tho , but when ya have it right you get good results . I think now ill be ok ill see how she performs next week or so. In the near future  I ll get new felt oilers rinse and repeat again. Hopefully ill be ok with these bearings for some time before needing to replace em. Thanks again for all your help.


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## kennyv (Dec 6, 2015)

I have a 1963 SB heavy 10 tool room lathe. It has everything for it less the taper attachment . Now I may have available a taper attach  that come off a 13" Southbend   and was looking  to mybe retrofit  for my lathe . I took a look at it and the only downfall is its bigger.
 Do ya think it will be too big or wont  matter ?  the way height for clamp are a bit larger but don't se why I cant modiphy  to accommodate.  Now I know the bolt holes for mounting will be spaced wider but dont see why i cant modipy that either. I can pick it up cheap  .

First do you think I will fit the machine well  w/ retrofit ( lager size)  Or not worth the troubles? Thanks in advance


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