# New Logan 820 (to me)



## D. Kent (Jul 13, 2022)

Just wanted to write the forum hello. I purchased and brought home an 820, in disassembled pieces (I took apart). She was absolutely neglected from a cleanliness perspective, granted the last former owner had it for 20 years and rarely used it, but given the SN indicates 1941, she's seen a lot more use the other 60 years. From my limited machining experience, the ways look to be in ok shape, a flat and indicator will tell the truth, but just trying to get cleaned up enough to be respectable to put back together, clean, and properly lubricated. All the gears look to be in good shape.
As I begin to clean up and tell myself this isn't going to be a restoration project, I have some basic questions.

When I took the motor mount assembly apart, it's apparent to me the support "peg" leg should be secured to the floor (previous owner had nothing secured). I note there are holes in the feet of the legs and I'm curious what you guys may have used to secure your machines to the floor, if anything? At least an anchor bolt on the peg leg? Some red heads to snug up to keep from walking or falling over during a shaker?

Another question is if any of you have found a good source for a rear (back) splash shield? I suppose I could put something on my garage wall behind the lathe to help keep it easy to clean, like a thin sheet of stainless or plastic screwed into the drywall. Just looking for tried and true ideas.  

I just pressure washed the single light grey coat of paint layer off the chip pan and legs. The original gunmetal looking blue paint / coating is pretty well adhered, but could use an overcoat- especially the chip pan. From what I've read the Benjamin Moore industrial enamel in black seal is good match? My challenge is when to call it on making pretty and concentrate on just cleaning up to get an accurate test of how well she runs. Yes, I did hear it spin up, but we didn't load it up.  The amount of chip I found bound up in the apron and carriage was appalling. Hopefully, not indicative of the wear in the ways, but I shall see.

The machine has just about everything it came with, including the draw bar and collets. Looking forward to putting back together and checking as I go. Just received a black crutch foot boot to use use between the peg leg and the motor bracket.


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## wachuko (Jul 13, 2022)

Congratulations!

Photos coming soon?


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## tmenyc (Jul 15, 2022)

congratulations from another 820 owner! Got mine almost four years ago and still haven't gotten to pretty. It's a wonderful machine, enjoy it!
Tim


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## wachuko (Jul 15, 2022)

Please, please take photos from every angle and share... looks like I just bought one as well... but it is in dire need of much, much, and I mean, much tender loving care... 

I need all the help that I can get.... and wife does not know it... I am going to be in deep, deep doo-doo...


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## wachuko (Jul 15, 2022)

Shut up @matthewsx , just shut up...


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## matthewsx (Jul 15, 2022)

Sorry....

I'm sure it'll be fine. Just take her out for a nice dinner.

John


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## matthewsx (Jul 15, 2022)

The wife, not the lathe of course....


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jul 15, 2022)

Pics are essential!

For a backsplash an oil drip tray from an auto parts store with some appropriate bends and support would work well. I made mine from a large sheet of alu I found at the scrapyard 



#wachuko, that's one of my favorite quotes from that movie!


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## WhyW8 (Jul 15, 2022)

My "peg leg" on my 11" is not secured to the floor, just the weight of the motor assemble holding it.  Have not experienced any movement.  I used a small section of aluminum sheeting as a backsplash, attached to the wall at the topside and just resting on the chip tray on the bottom.


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## IamNotImportant (Jul 15, 2022)

wachuko said:


> Congratulations!
> 
> Photos coming soon?
> 
> View attachment 413603


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## wachuko (Jul 15, 2022)

IamNotImportant said:


> View attachment 413851


Here you go...  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/my-logan-820-lathe-journey.100944/

I did not want to hi-jack the OP's thread...


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## Shiseiji (Jul 15, 2022)

Best not to secure the Peg leg, or the lathe, so you can more easily adjust out bed twist/"leveling." If you do, you will be shimming between the bed and the pan/whatever to level it. Much easier IMHO to use machine pads or make your own with threaded rod. 

Rom


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## D. Kent (Jul 19, 2022)

Thank you for the welcome messages and responses to my couple of questions. My time is limited to work on putting back together, will be a slow process. Pressure worked OK on the adding paint, but I think I'll end up wire wheeling down the legs and pan to clean up for a nice smooth finish. I did pick up a quart of the Baby Black Seal oil enamel paint last Friday.

I've looking around for a rear splash / chip pan, but haven't found much in terms of easy cut and bolt in options. Worst case scenario, it will be some thin sheet over drywall in my garage, but would rather keep the chips in the pan as much as possible. Yeah, I could see how an auto drip pan could work too.

I was reading on the Practical Machinist site some thoughts on if machines should be bolted / secured to the floor. There was one post that was the kicker for me: the manufacturer didn't put holes in the legs for no reason. I'm thinking some 1/2" threaded anchors with a means to level each. Will have to rent a roto hammer drill when the time comes to drill the 4 holes + 1 for the peg. Trick will be picking where it will sit for a few decades, but I guess I have some time to give that thought while I start with the legs and pan.

Luckily, I found the 220V feed to my soon to be removed hot tub and can easily put in a receptacle to use the 220V 1Ph to 220V 3Ph inverter that came with lathe.

The photo isn't great and from the previous owner's shop. I just noted the gaping open rectangular space on the operator side of the headstock. Some photos of 820's have the cut out, some don't. Might this be to access the pin on the bull gear? Seemed easy enough from the 12 O'Clock position by opening the top cover, but not sure.  The additional "Delta Equipment Agency" name tag makes me wonder about its roots. Maybe a retailer from 1941?


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## Jim F (Jul 19, 2022)

Isn't that hole for the original switch ?


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## wachuko (Jul 19, 2022)

Jim F said:


> Isn't that hole for the original switch ?


Switch was in a different location...




EDIT: Oh... I see... Could be then...


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## wachuko (Jul 19, 2022)

D. Kent said:


> ...
> 
> When I took the motor mount assembly apart, it's apparent to me the support "peg" leg should be secured to the floor (previous owner had nothing secured). I note there are holes in the feet of the legs and I'm curious what you guys may have used to secure your machines to the floor, if anything? At least an anchor bolt on the peg leg? Some red heads to snug up to keep from walking or falling over during a shaker?
> ...
> ...



Would love to see the drawbar/collect setup.  What size collects?  The bore is 3/4”

Can you share a photo of your motor support leg?  Mine is a straight pipe and has an L-bracket at the bottom with a bolt through it...  But what I see from Logan's catalog is a nicer looking support with a flange at the bottom with four holes...


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## WhyW8 (Jul 19, 2022)

That "peg leg" in Figure 1 above looks just like the one on my 11"


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## Shiseiji (Jul 20, 2022)

Jim F said:


> Isn't that hole for the original switch ?


Yes. My observation is it that it's not seen on later lathes, even prior to the 1820 vee belt change over. I suspect it was quickly determined to be an unnecessary expense for the casting, and the reversing switch made more sense for production shops. Just an opinion.


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## Shiseiji (Jul 20, 2022)

Oh and great score in the collets! The original are 3AT, not impossible to find. Not like trying to find collets for a Hardinge  2VB. A current eBay buy it now is $265 for 5. 3C have a slightly different thread and they are 3/8" shorter.  The thread isn't enough to matter, obviously a longer drawbar is needed. If Wacho doesn't respond I'll give him a shout. 

Ron


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## Shiseiji (Jul 20, 2022)

D. Kent said:


> Thank you for the welcome messages and responses to my couple of questions. My time is limited to work on putting back together, will be a slow process. Pressure worked OK on the adding paint, but I think I'll end up wire wheeling down the legs and pan to clean up for a nice smooth finish. I did pick up a quart of the Baby Black Seal oil enamel paint last Friday.
> 
> I've looking around for a rear splash / chip pan, but haven't found much in terms of easy cut and bolt in options. Worst case scenario, it will be some thin sheet over drywall in my garage, but would rather keep the chips in the pan as much as possible. Yeah, I could see how an auto drip pan could work too.
> 
> ...


My 10EE has holes too. The manufacturer states they are for leveling pads. Many old shops had wood floors, and they turned out parts that won WWII. Shimming between a bed and "whatever" to level the bed is a PIA. Adjusting a pad? Two open end wrenches. If you do bolt to the floor, I suggest threaded rod so you can adjust washers on nuts and not between the bed and pan. Just my $.02

Ron


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## Shiseiji (Jul 20, 2022)

Oh geez am I stupid or what? Can I beg off on oral surgery and now solid proof I need to just shut up because I obviously didn't lock on what you had written?  Sorry. The intent was good.  I'm going to go crawl under a rock and try to sleep this off. 

Ron


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## wachuko (Jul 24, 2022)

Photos from the Logan group.  Someone just bought one…




And there is the toggle switch


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## D. Kent (Jul 30, 2022)

I finally had a few minutes to continue cleaning up the legs and pan, and check out the draw bar / collets. I have to write, they didn't clean up the legs castings all that closely.


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## wachuko (Jul 30, 2022)

That drawbar with the collet set…so cool, just so cool…


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## D. Kent (Aug 10, 2022)

I've been tearing into the headstock to get an accurate accounting of its condition. She's definitely seen some wear and tear, but as the previous owner indicated, the bearings are fresh. One thing I noted is that the take-up nut on the main bearing was loose and off the threads. Logan has some for sale, but the price is formidable. Any insight to a spanner nut that works (for either take-up nut), that would be a straight replacement?..or insight into the Logan replacements? Are they any different than the original to tighten?
The punch and hammer approach seems crude, but I suppose with some blue lock tight would work as it originally did. Insight into how far past hand tight is considered sufficient preload on the newer replacement bearings?
...onward to the back gears.


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## wachuko (Aug 10, 2022)

Thank you for the update.  Can't wait to see more photos.  We like photos


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## wachuko (Aug 12, 2022)

@D. Kent - Can you share a photo of the Follow Rest that came with your lathe?


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## D. Kent (Aug 14, 2022)

wachuko said:


> @D. Kent - Can you share a photo of the Follow Rest that came with your lathe?


She looks pretty well used; an item that will be toward the end of the list of cleaning.


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## D. Kent (Aug 14, 2022)

Prior to paint....I ended up settling on feet, for now. They've arrived. The 28T back gear was pretty sharp and both the bushings to ends of the shaft were sloppy. I found the back gear lock pin on the underside of the lever, where it should be. It looks pretty worn.


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## TomKro (Aug 18, 2022)

As to your main bearing take up nut, I have an old Logan 200 spindle that was seriously abused.  I set it aside with the thought of checking out the main bearing, just in case it was still usable (bearing still on spindle).  

The Logan 200 take up nut looks like it has a 1-3/8 inch x 18 TPI internal thread.  Outside diameter is about 2-1/4 inch.  If by some chance the your machine uses the same nut, let me know.  

TomKro


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## D. Kent (Aug 30, 2022)

TomKro said:


> As to your main bearing take up nut, I have an old Logan 200 spindle that was seriously abused.  I set it aside with the thought of checking out the main bearing, just in case it was still usable (bearing still on spindle).
> 
> The Logan 200 take up nut looks like it has a 1-3/8 inch x 18 TPI internal thread.  Outside diameter is about 2-1/4 inch.  If by some chance the your machine uses the same nut, let me know.
> 
> TomKro


Thanks TomKro. I'll check it out. I think I can re-use what I have, but would be very interested if an off the shelf spanner nut worked in the originals place.


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## D. Kent (Aug 30, 2022)

Minor update, received a box of back gear replacement goodies from Logan. I'm replacing the eccentric shaft bushings and the 28T back gear. The old gear was fairly worn looking. The left hand bushing fits the eccentric fairly well, with a slip fit. The right hand (front) has a bit more slop, but less than the original bushing.  

Question: I'm replacing the "latch" key that holds the latch out to engage the back gears and keep them engaged. Mine is so worn the former owner didn't even know it was there and had a work around magnet to wedge the latch in the pulled out position. Has anyone attempted to replace? The pivot pin appears it presses through from one side? I'm wondering how the spring is kept in place. I think mine has been long since gone.


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## TomKro (Sep 7, 2022)

Here's an old thread that includes a sketch of the key:









						Logan 820 Latch Key repair and question
					

Grandpa's old Logan lathe had a little wooden block to keep the back gears engaged, wired to the shifter rack so it wouldn't get lost. The key was missing and I wondered what goes there, so I finally got around to figuring it out. How does the key get lost on these? You find them on fleabay...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




I have not disassembled one myself, but it appears the pin goes through the shaft.  The latch itself appears to hold the spring in place.  

TomKro


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## D. Kent (Sep 8, 2022)

Thanks for the raising the old thread. I was able to gently tap out the pin. Check out the replacement versus the old one that looks pretty worn. What I can't figure out is what keeps the spring from popping out. I was hoping to see a blind hole in the curved groove that would seat the spring, but no such luck.


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## Shiseiji (Sep 8, 2022)

Spring is held in simply by the catch. 

Ron


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## D. Kent (Oct 7, 2022)

Short update as things are slow going until I finish more retaining wall this Fall. I wasn't really happy with the fit up of the backgear Eccentric shaft and oil-less bearings. So, I ordered replacements- what a world of difference in free play, especially in the right hand bearing. This seems consistent with the heavy wear on the smaller 28T gear.


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