# Cutting 1 inch thick aluminum stock possible with a scroll saw?



## defcon (Nov 18, 2014)

I'm looking to buy a scroll saw and was wondering if anyone has experience in cutting 1 inch thick aluminum stock?

What kind of blades with TPI should I be looking for?


----------



## mzayd3 (Nov 18, 2014)

A scroll saw?  Do you mean bandsaw? Or saws all? Or power hacksaw?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## defcon (Nov 18, 2014)

mzayd3 said:


> A scroll saw?  Do you mean bandsaw? Or saws all? Or power hacksaw?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Scroll saw.

I have a band saw but i need to cut specific shapes inside of the stock.


----------



## JimDawson (Nov 18, 2014)

mzayd3 said:


> A scroll saw?  Do you mean bandsaw? Or saws all? Or power hacksaw?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




This is a scroll saw


----------



## JimDawson (Nov 18, 2014)

defcon said:


> I'm looking to buy a scroll saw and was wondering if anyone has experience in cutting 1 inch thick aluminum stock?
> 
> What kind of blades with TPI should I be looking for?




I would buy an assortment of blades and see what works best.  I would also use WD-40 as a cutting lube just to keep the blade from clogging.


----------



## chuckorlando (Nov 18, 2014)

You sure you dont mean Jig saw?


----------



## 12bolts (Nov 18, 2014)

I have a cheapo scroll saw. Have not tried cutting 1" ally on it, and wouldnt even try. I can bog it down just cutting ply with it if I go too hard.
It looks like you have a mill there? I would be going that route

Cheers Phil


----------



## Bill Gruby (Nov 18, 2014)

I doubt the blades would last very long. There isn't much room to clear the swarf. The blades will heat fast and break very quickly.

 "Billy G"


----------



## Ulma Doctor (Nov 18, 2014)

kerosene/lard oil (bacon grease work well too) mixture is also a cheap alternative to wd40 for sawing aluminum.
out here in california you are lucky to find wd40 for less than $25 a gallon.
kerosene is about 11 bucks a gallon, lard to buy at the store is less than $3 proportionately.
the mixture saves about 10 bucks a gallon, and really adds up if you are doing a lot of sawing.
(bacon grease is a byproduct of breakfast so i don't really consider it as a cost, i use it a home and bring some to work)

i hope the info helps out


----------



## defcon (Nov 18, 2014)

JimDawson said:


> This is a scroll saw




I know thats a scroll saw.

I used a band saw to cut it.

My mini mill will take too long at less than .10 inch depth each pass


----------



## GA Gyro (Nov 18, 2014)

Vertical bandsaw might work... 

Probably would have to get creative with the angles.

I have not tried my new Jet 7x12 combo in vertical yet... probably will figure out an excuse to try it over the holidays when I have more time.


----------



## defcon (Nov 18, 2014)

chuckorlando said:


> You sure you dont mean Jig saw?



Would a jig saw be better?


----------



## chuckorlando (Nov 18, 2014)

I have never used a scroll saw but if I was trying to do what you are, and not use my mill, I just would go to a jig saw before scroll. That could be pure ignorance though. Dont a scroll saw have a continues blade? If so, I would you get into them pocket? And the blades I seen are so small I fear it would twist instead of rounding the cut.

But again, thats just in thinking, not in doing


----------



## defcon (Nov 18, 2014)

i dont mind using a jig saw or a sawzall just to cut a rough shape faster and then do clean up with an end mill


----------



## francist (Nov 18, 2014)

That's gonna be one tough cut for a scroll saw. I would not buy one for that job unless I had actually seen that it can do it first. Way small blades, very few teeth to do the cutting, and the blades twist and bow with any real pressure. 

Would love to be proven wrong, though!

-frank


----------



## JimDawson (Nov 18, 2014)

defcon said:


> *I know thats a scroll saw. *




Yes, I know that you do defcon.)

 My post above was directed to mzayd3 who seemed to not know what a scroll saw is, you can tell by the quote above my text.


----------



## defcon (Nov 18, 2014)

francist said:


> That's gonna be one tough cut for a scroll saw. I would not buy one for that job unless I had actually seen that it can do it first. Way small blades, very few teeth to do the cutting, and the blades twist and bow with any real pressure.
> 
> Would love to be proven wrong, though!
> 
> -frank



i plan to drill on all corners/angles which would make it easier to navigate

again it doesnt have to be clean.  just faster than doing multiple passes on a mini mill with its limitations


----------



## lugnard (Nov 18, 2014)

Just thinking about this...could you make a custom blade to fit the scroll saw from a hack-saw blade. Possible to grind one down thinner and make it fit in the holder. Might work but again I would find someone with a saw and play around before purchasing a new scroll saw. Could work if you are just making straight cuts.

Harry


----------



## mzayd3 (Nov 18, 2014)

I know what a scroll saw is, I have one.  I was making sure we were on the same page.  If you have to, use the most coarse blade you can find.  Good luck!


----------



## road (Nov 18, 2014)

I have used my scroll saw for alu stuff but nothing more than 1/4 " thick .  a project that thick would take forever even  if you can keep the blade from breaking. Not to mention it makes a mess of the scroll saw with the WD-40. 

  I did these on a scroll = pic below. 

my suggestion would be to keep up with the drilling holes then use a scroll to cut the larger pieces then finally mill it out.


----------



## kd4gij (Nov 18, 2014)

I would do that on my G0704 but not like you think. Lay it out drill one 1/2" hole in one coner. Then us a 1/2" end mill and plunge cut it moving over 25 to 50 thou at a time. You will be surpized how fas it will go.


----------



## defcon (Nov 18, 2014)

road said:


> I have used my scroll saw for alu stuff but nothing more than 1/4 " thick .  a project that thick would take forever even  if you can keep the blade from breaking. Not to mention it makes a mess of the scroll saw with the WD-40.
> 
> I did these on a scroll = pic below.
> 
> my suggestion would be to keep up with the drilling holes then use a scroll to cut the larger pieces then finally mill it out.



got it.  ok no more scroll saw

sawzall a better solution?


----------



## kd4gij (Nov 18, 2014)

A sawsall might be a little hard to controll. And finding a blade nerrow enough a little tuff. A sabor saw would work with the right blade.




  Give plunge cutting on the mill shot I use left hand on the quile qnd right hand on the table crank 3/8" or 1/2" endmill and WD 40 about 3 to 5 minuts for each cut out. I cutshapes and slots that way all the time.


----------



## Dave Smith (Nov 18, 2014)

a drill bit is the most efficient cutting tool ----make a row of drilled holes around the perimeter and then I would use a saber saw mounted on a table with a coarse blade to cut between the holes-----then use the mill to finish the walls-----I do have a couple of large powermatic and delta scroll saws that may be able to cut 1" thick aluminum but I have not tried them yet---I'm sure the small scroll saws would fail---another possible option maybe no one thought of is a shaper--after drilling a large center hole to start with----it could really do the corners sharp and the cutting smooth-----how about it ---active shaper owners ---would a shaper do a good job?--:thinking:--Dave


----------



## defcon (Nov 18, 2014)

Dave Smith said:


> a drill bit is the most efficient cutting tool ----make a row of drilled holes around the perimeter and then I would use a saber saw mounted on a table with a coarse blade to cut between the holes-----then use the mill to finish the walls----



i like that idea


----------



## stupoty (Nov 19, 2014)

lugnard said:


> Just thinking about this...could you make a custom blade to fit the scroll saw from a hack-saw blade. Possible to grind one down thinner and make it fit in the holder. Might work but again I would find someone with a saw and play around before purchasing a new scroll saw. Could work if you are just making straight cuts.
> 
> Harry




If your drilling the start and end holes maybe just a hack saw, or is it not a one off?

stuart


----------



## Fabrickator (Nov 19, 2014)

I would use my LMS Mini Mill w/ a 3-flute roughing cutter and eat through that like butter @ .100" per pass no problem.

Forget the Scroll Saw.  Forget all that drilling, just make a plunge cut and go.  If you have many to make and want them super accurate, find someone with a water jet.


----------



## David Kirtley (Nov 19, 2014)

You *could* do it but it would take forever. The biggest problem is chip evacuation. The stroke is too short. It would actually be faster to do it by hand. If I *had* to saw it out, I would use my small bow saw (12" blade) or make a longer one and use a small bandsaw blade to make a blade for it :


----------



## defcon (Nov 19, 2014)

stupoty said:


> If your drilling the start and end holes maybe just a hack saw, or is it not a one off?
> 
> stuart




its a one off.

wouldnt a sawzall/reciprocating saw be faster?


----------



## defcon (Nov 19, 2014)

Fabrickator said:


> I would use my LMS Mini Mill w/ a 3-flute roughing cutter and eat through that like butter @ .100" per pass no problem.
> 
> Forget the Scroll Saw.  Forget all that drilling, just make a plunge cut and go.  If you have many to make and want them super accurate, find someone with a water jet.



i only have 2 and 4 flute end mills that i bought from LMS as a kit.

ill look up a 3 flute roughing cutter.  do you have a specific size of that roughing cutter or an exact link to the site i can purchase?


it doesnt have to be accurate.  just close enough


----------



## defcon (Nov 19, 2014)

David Kirtley said:


> You *could* do it but it would take forever. The biggest problem is chip evacuation. The stroke is too short. It would actually be faster to do it by hand. If I *had* to saw it out, I would use my small bow saw (12" blade) or make a longer one and use a small bandsaw blade to make a blade for it :
> 
> View attachment 88085



i thought sawing by hand would take longer?


----------



## GA Gyro (Nov 19, 2014)

defcon said:


> its a one off.
> 
> wouldnt a sawzall/reciprocating saw be faster?



Using a sawzall to cut heavy metal is both time consuming and tiring.... AND... the cut tends to become wavy... in multiple axis/planes... which will require lots of milling to clean up... so one is back where one started with time... ondering:

If it were me.... I would take this as a learning experience on the specific operation you need to do.... doing it on a mill.  Seems the way we collect tooling... is when we need them... ) 

When I get in a situation where I need to learn a new way to do things... after it is done... I have learned a bunch; and next time I can do it better.  Few (if any) do it the best way the first time... that is an ego trip I have fallen for too many times... thankfully I have learned better... :thumbsup2:

Remember... Pictures, or it did not happen... :lmao:
Then we can all learn something new... which for me is as much fun as the finished item :allgood:


----------



## Fabrickator (Nov 19, 2014)

The roughing cutters I bought from Enco are 3 & 4 Flute 5/8".  It's a good all-around size for quick material removal on a small machine.  Figure your radius size and get a roughing and finishing mill (all in one pass).


----------



## defcon (Nov 19, 2014)

Fabrickator said:


> The roughing cutters I bought from Enco are 3 & 4 Flute 5/8".  It's a good all-around size for quick material removal on a small machine.  Figure your radius size and get a roughing and finishing mill (all in one pass).



Course or fine roughing end mill?

nm i just purchased a course 3 flute
Roughing High Speed Steel End Mill, 1/4" Mill Diameter, 3/8" Shank Diameter, 5/8" Length of Cut


----------



## defcon (Nov 19, 2014)

Can I just drill a hole and stick this 5/8 roughing end mill at full depth and cut away .10" at a time?


----------



## george wilson (Nov 19, 2014)

The machine pictured on the last page is a scroll saw,or jig saw. The hand held power tool that everyone calls a jig saw is a saber saw,or a bayonet saw.

I certainly would not try cutting metal of much thickness with the old,classic Delta scroll saw from the 40's-50's-60's.. It had pot metal guts that would very easily tear up. They wanted $275.00 for the part that made the vertical shaft reciprocate because it was a "HISTORIC PART". A young friend of mine bought a Delta that had broken that way. I showed him how to make a new part from solid steel. It wasn't hard to do,and will last forever. I have bought one of those old Deltas. Wonder when I'll be making that part?

The virtue of that old saw is: The blade goes straight up and straight down. All these rocking beam type new scroll saws,including the expensive Hegners,go back and forth,sanding and messing up the edges of small parts you are trying to make.

I had a Hegner. It was miserable to put blades on. I got it cheap,and sold it when I got the Delta.

This is a machine I seldom use. I got it for kids to be taught on. At least it won't cut their fingers off like a bandsaw.


----------



## Round in circles (Nov 19, 2014)

If push came to shove I'd make a set of 3/4 high density fibre board masks and clamp /screw everything down on a table top  with a  sacrificial  board underneath . 
Wood screw everything together put lots of locating /fixing screws & strips of wood around the outer sides of the aluminium to stop things moving in the mask and countersink all the screw heads in the top surfaces . 

Then screw 3 inch or so wide by 1/2 inch thick wooden guide strips  on to guide my 1800 watt 240 volt  Bosch plunge router as I used a 1/2 or 1/4 inch parallel tungsten carbide router bit and take 1/8 of an inch or less of aluminium out on on each pass.
 All you have to remember is to allow for the difference from the outer edge of the guide plate to the edge of the cutter when setting up the guide strips . 


Yes you do need eyes & ears safety protection and gloves but it is not as difficult or dangerous as one might first imagine when using a heavy weight double handed  high speed router.


----------



## road (Nov 19, 2014)

defcon said:


> i only have 2 and 4 flute end mills that i bought from LMS as a kit.
> 
> ill look up a 3 flute roughing cutter.  do you have a specific size of that roughing cutter or an exact link to the site i can purchase?
> 
> ...





We are machinists.  this is not part of our collective thought process....   does not compute


----------



## Fabrickator (Nov 19, 2014)

defcon said:


> Course or fine roughing end mill?
> 
> nm i just purchased a course 3 flute
> Roughing High Speed Steel End Mill, 1/4" Mill Diameter, 3/8" Shank Diameter, 5/8" Length of Cut



You'll have to see what your machine will handle, but start slow and easy.  Being 1/4", it probably won't be able to plow through the whole depth in pass. You should be able to knock off .100" increments and follow up with a cleanup around the perimeter.


----------



## chuckorlando (Nov 19, 2014)

Speak for your self. I do everything perfect the first time. I needed a ugly mark in a fresh bore today so I ran the boring bar right into the back of the hole. I got my ugly mark and learned the bar apparently was cheap from the bent shank and broke carbide. AHAHAHAHA





GA said:


> Using a sawzall to cut heavy metal is both time consuming and tiring.... AND... the cut tends to become wavy... in multiple axis/planes... which will require lots of milling to clean up... so one is back where one started with time... ondering:
> 
> If it were me.... I would take this as a learning experience on the specific operation you need to do.... doing it on a mill.  Seems the way we collect tooling... is when we need them... )
> 
> ...


----------



## David Kirtley (Nov 19, 2014)

defcon said:


> i thought sawing by hand would take longer?



It would take a while by hand but the reciprocating action of the scroll saw is so short, you would have to keep pulling out to clear chips. There is just no place for them to go.  Even a high end scroll saw like an Excaliber only has a stroke length of 3/4". That means about 1/4" of teeth would never leave the material you are cutting. It would be especially bad with aluminum.

Cutting a piece like that by hand would be an exercise in patience. Cutting a piece that thick with a scroll saw would require divine intervention.


----------



## Dave Smith (Nov 20, 2014)

francist said:


> That's gonna be one tough cut for a scroll saw. I would not buy one for that job unless I had actually seen that it can do it first. Way small blades, very few teeth to do the cutting, and the blades twist and bow with any real pressure.
> 
> Would love to be proven wrong, though!
> 
> -frank



well Frank and others of us-----I went to my other shop where my powermatic scroll saw is and grabbed a 1" thick bar of aluminum and raised the height to 1" and just using the wood blade that was in the saw---It --to my surprise cut the bar with no trouble to the blade and could cut the 1 1/2" bar in less than a minute using no fluids--just dry---a good straight cut also---------------------I was totally surprised, as probably the rest of everyone is------now we know, and I will include pics to show it happened-----Dave-----I guess we all learn what certain tools are capable of if we give them an honest try---I would use my band saws for cutting thick aluminum--but I know now that my scroll saw can cut inside of an area that my band saw cannot without cutting the blade and welding it.--now I will try my mounted saber saw and see how that cuts 1" thick aluminum----but not until my weather gets above freezing----please comment on this if you are just as surprised as me---Dave


----------



## David Kirtley (Nov 20, 2014)

Thanks for actually testing it! One more trick to be able to draw on. I wouldn't have expected it to work at all. I always found the blades to load up too much even for thicker wood. Quite possibly it could be my technique that sucks.


----------



## JimDawson (Nov 20, 2014)

Dave Smith said:


> well Frank and others of us-----I went to my other shop where my powermatic scroll saw is and grabbed a 1" thick bar of aluminum and raised the height to 1" and just using the wood blade that was in the saw---It --to my surprise cut the bar with no trouble to the blade and could cut the 1 1/2" bar in less than a minute using no fluids--just dry---a good straight cut also---------------------I was totally surprised, as probably the rest of everyone is------now we know, and I will include pics to show it happened-----Dave-----I guess we all learn what certain tools are capable of if we give them an honest try---I would use my band saws for cutting thick aluminum--but I know now that my scroll saw can cut inside of an area that my band saw cannot without cutting the blade and welding it.--now I will try my mounted saber saw and see how that cuts 1" thick aluminum----but not until my weather gets above freezing----please comment on this if you are just as surprised as me---Dave



Dave, now you went and done it.  I'm going to have to go buy a new tool.  I don't have a scroll saw, looks like I need one.)  Besides, one can never have too many tools:whistle:


----------



## John Hasler (Nov 20, 2014)

JimDawson said:


> Dave, now you went and done it.  I'm going to have to go buy a new tool.  I don't have a scroll saw, looks like I need one.)  Besides, one can never have too many tools:whistle:



I have one that I bought cheap at a yard sale but have never used.  Now I'll have to get it out of the barn and try it.  That means figuring out where in the shop to put it...


----------



## Dave Smith (Nov 20, 2014)

remember that my scroll saw is large and a small scroll saw would be totally different results


----------



## ericc (Nov 20, 2014)

I suspect that a combination of chain drill and scroll saw pecking would work.  I may try this out soon, since a neighbor of mine got sick and dropped his high end scroll saw off in my front yard.  I told him that I did not want it, but he said that he was too tired to put it back on his truck.  I tried it out once on a piece of wood, and something must have been wrong, since it would not cut, but the above picture gives me hope.

If I had to do this job, and it was under duress, I would use a huge drill followed by an assortment of chisels over an acorn table.  If it had to be nice, and it wasn't in a rush,  I have friends with CNC waterjet and plasma.  That is the right tool for the job.


----------



## John Hasler (Nov 20, 2014)

Dave Smith said:


> remember that my scroll saw is large and a small scroll saw would be totally different results



I certainly wouldn't expect my scroll saw to handle 1" aluminum, but then I don't have any anyhow.


----------



## defcon (Nov 21, 2014)

ericc said:


> I suspect that a combination of chain drill and scroll saw pecking would work.  I may try this out soon, since a neighbor of mine got sick and dropped his high end scroll saw off in my front yard.  I told him that I did not want it, but he said that he was too tired to put it back on his truck.  I tried it out once on a piece of wood, and something must have been wrong, since it would not cut, but the above picture gives me hope.
> 
> If I had to do this job, and it was under duress, I would use a huge drill followed by an assortment of chisels over an acorn table.  If it had to be nice, and it wasn't in a rush,  I have friends with CNC waterjet and plasma.  That is the right tool for the job.



I wish I had friends with CNC waterjet and plasma.

I'm not using a scroll saw anymore.  I just bought the 3 flute 5/8 roughing end mill and clean it up after drilling holes around the permimeter.  

Can't wait to try this tomorrow.  I'll take some updated pics of the stock 

Thanks everyone for talking me out of it.


----------



## francist (Nov 21, 2014)

Wow, I am surprised indeed! And good on you Dave for putting it the test -- thanks for that :thumbsup:

I guess we all know now what scroll saw to keep an eye out for now, too. Sweet, thanks Dave.

-frank


----------



## kd4gij (Nov 21, 2014)

Dave Smith said:


> well Frank and others of us-----I went to my other shop where my powermatic scroll saw is and grabbed a 1" thick bar of aluminum and raised the height to 1" and just using the wood blade that was in the saw---It --to my surprise cut the bar with no trouble to the blade and could cut the 1 1/2" bar in less than a minute using no fluids--just dry---a good straight cut also---------------------I was totally surprised, as probably the rest of everyone is------now we know, and I will include pics to show it happened-----Dave-----I guess we all learn what certain tools are capable of if we give them an honest try---I would use my band saws for cutting thick aluminum--but I know now that my scroll saw can cut inside of an area that my band saw cannot without cutting the blade and welding it.--now I will try my mounted saber saw and see how that cuts 1" thick aluminum----but not until my weather gets above freezing----please comment on this if you are just as surprised as me---Dave
> 
> View attachment 88108
> View attachment 88109
> View attachment 88110






  Can you make a vidio cutting a shape on the saw.


----------



## defcon (Nov 21, 2014)

kd4gij said:


> Can you make a vidio cutting a shape on the saw.



id like to see some different cutting degrees or polygon shapes


----------



## Dave Smith (Nov 22, 2014)

kd4gij said:


> Can you make a vidio cutting a shape on the saw.



No---first off I don't do videos and I don't have three or four hands to hold the product and the camera----I don't think I said you could cut other than mostly straight or slightly curved cuts in 1" thick aluminum---just that my saw could cut thick aluminum between drilled holes---yes it could cut inside sharp angles that a milling cutter can't----I really don't think I will ever be needing to cut intricate cut outs in thick aluminum---but if I ever do I will be glad to show you how it looks---just knowing that my powermatic did dry cut it ok and didn't hurt the blade at all impressed me.--by the way scroll saw blades are a lot cheaper than bandsaw blades and milling cutters----I do have lathes and milling machines and shapers so I know that each has limits also---it makes it easier to know what capabilities each machine in our shops can help us in our projects---I think I answered the question asked by the title of this thread----Yes it is possible---------Dave


----------



## francist (Nov 22, 2014)

Dave - just wondering if it's not too much trouble, what blade is your "normal wood blade"? Zooming in on the pic as much as I can it looks like maybe a 1/4" x 6tpi?  Or...?

I once tried to run a mini hacksaw blade in the the little Homecraft scroll saw with dismal results, but now this has got my gears going again and I'm thinking of trying again. Might save the little Homecraft from a conversion to die-filer death if it works. 

-frank


----------



## Dave Smith (Nov 22, 2014)

francist said:


> Dave - just wondering if it's not too much trouble, what blade is your "normal wood blade"? Zooming in on the pic as much as I can it looks like maybe a 1/4" x 6tpi?  Or...?
> 
> I once tried to run a mini hacksaw blade in the the little Homecraft scroll saw with dismal results, but now this has got my gears going again and I'm thinking of trying again. Might save the little Homecraft from a conversion to die-filer death if it works.
> 
> -frank



Frank--I think you are about right on the blade description, and next time I go to my other shop I will measure it----my other shop is 40 miles away and there is no heat in the shop----I am lots like you in finding more uses for each piece of equip--especially when I have many duplicates and sizes---I  know I have at least 8 scroll saws but don't have a die filer made yet----I do have a couple pneumatic hand die filers so maybe those will satisfy all my filing needs-----my trouble is my head is so full of-- tools I can make or modify-- that I have to have an organized shop to store them all---I moved 4 years ago and haven't got 220 or even good 110 to my new shops here yet---but I have a lot of big machines that require 220 and plenty of 110----I'm sure that there are other members also that can relate to the situation that I am in--all I know is that I miss using my big air compressor, my big mills, my big drill presses, and especially my arc welder.---I have thought  a lot about how handy it would be to make a vertical scroll saw that could use many different blades and have strokes of 6-12 inches with plenty of power---it could be made cheap with supplies I already have----I wish I had another HM member close to work on projects with----Dave


----------



## defcon (Nov 23, 2014)

Some progress.

No scroll saw was used.

Ended up using a 3/8 roughing end mill and did about 15 passes for each line.  Took me about 45 minutes just for this polygon.  

I was going about .10" to .15" in depth.

Still need to clean up the inside and make things straight.

I'll have some time to do the other square side on the left.


----------



## Ianagos (Nov 25, 2014)

Hey there may be a reason and I may look like an idiot but why are you removing all that material when you could just cut the shape out leaving tabs or some material at the bottom so you could just pick out the block saving tons of material wear and time. I'm also not sure on your mill but I can take 1/2 depth cuts with full width 1/2 2flute endmill and get spectacular finishes. But that's on my lathe being used as a mill and my lathe is a big boy and I could probably push that endmill to its limits without phasing the machine.


----------



## defcon (Nov 26, 2014)

Ianagos said:


> Hey there may be a reason and I may look like an idiot but why are you removing all that material when you could just cut the shape out leaving tabs or some material at the bottom so you could just pick out the block saving tons of material wear and time. I'm also not sure on your mill but I can take 1/2 depth cuts with full width 1/2 2flute endmill and get spectacular finishes. But that's on my lathe being used as a mill and my lathe is a big boy and I could probably push that endmill to its limits without phasing the machine.



Do you have a pic for reference on leaving tabs and picking out the block?

Im having trouble visualizing it.

My mini mill has a limitation and can cut only .10" to .15" in depth.  I tried 1/2 inch and i got vibration and chatter


----------



## Ianagos (Nov 26, 2014)

Well I can try and draw it but I'm not too great but it's something done on cncs running several parts from solid piece.  Tried but couldn't upload picture because was to much mb.  Just like soda caps are held by little tabs before you break them off this is the same theory.


----------



## defcon (Nov 26, 2014)

Ianagos said:


> Well I can try and draw it but I'm not too great but it's something done on cncs running several parts from solid piece.  Tried but couldn't upload picture because was to much mb.  Just like soda caps are held by little tabs before you break them off this is the same theory.



ive seen something similar on youtube where they had tabs on the outside.  not sure how it would look like for shapes/slots inside of the stock


----------



## francist (Nov 26, 2014)

I think what he's getting at is instead of drilling/milling away all the stuff in the very centre, just go around the edges. Leave a couple gaps not milled away (maybe opposite each other) to hold the centre chunk in place until the very end, then nip it out. You'd end up with a squarish shaped puck as waste, not everything in chips.

-frank


----------



## defcon (Nov 26, 2014)

francist said:


> I think what he's getting at is instead of drilling/milling away all the stuff in the very centre, just go around the edges. Leave a couple gaps not milled away (maybe opposite each other) to hold the centre chunk in place until the very end, then nip it out. You'd end up with a squarish shaped puck as waste, not everything in chips.
> 
> -frank



ah yup.  im doing that now after a couple of guys mentioned it.

im no longer drill in the center of the trunk.

thanks!


----------



## Ianagos (Nov 26, 2014)

Just cut all the way but leave .010 from reaching the bottom of the piece. Then when you are done you can simply push the piece out because .01 of aluminum is nothing. Theis will be the easiest


----------

