# 5/8 Straight Boring Head Shanks (7/8-20)



## SmokeWalker (Jul 25, 2015)

Can anyone help me find this cheaper than here?

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/94042991

Scouring Ebay turned up positively nothing, and with 1/2" straight shanks available at under $15, MSC's 45 seems a little nuts. 

Any help?


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## JimDawson (Jul 25, 2015)

Here is a 3/4 shank alternative for $16

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=947699&PMAKA=220-1118


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## SmokeWalker (Jul 25, 2015)

JimDawson said:


> Here is a 3/4 shank alternative for $16
> 
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=947699&PMAKA=220-1118


Is saw that. My machine only takes 5/8 tooling!


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## Tony Wells (Jul 25, 2015)

Turn it down


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## SmokeWalker (Jul 25, 2015)

How do I turn hardened steel with my 7x?


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## JimDawson (Jul 25, 2015)

Normally the shanks are not that hard.  Is it possible that a 1/2'' shank would work for you?  It sounds like your machine would not overpower it.  Normally boring takes very little power because you take pretty light cuts.


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## Tony Wells (Jul 25, 2015)

I doubt it's hardened too high. On the Enco page, one user mentioned that he cut his off because it was too long. You'll find that there likely are center holes on both ends, so holding it true should be no problem. I would imagine though, that you would need carbide. While not very hard, they're not exactly soft either. But they are machinable.


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## 4GSR (Jul 25, 2015)

I've machined down a few over the years.  They are heat treated but machinable.


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## chips&more (Jul 25, 2015)

Why not just make the whole thing, easy project to do…Good Luck, Dave.


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## 4GSR (Jul 25, 2015)

chips&more said:


> Why not just make the whole thing, easy project to do…Good Luck, Dave.



I have made a few over the years, too!.


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## kd4gij (Jul 25, 2015)

If you look close, I think you will find one hiding in a pice of round stock in the pile. You will just need to chuck it up in the lathe and cut away every thing that doesn't look like the arbor you need. I find all sorts of things that way.


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## SmokeWalker (Jul 25, 2015)

kd4gij said:


> If you look close, I think you will find one hiding in a pice of round stock in the pile. You will just need to chuck it up in the lathe and cut away every thing that doesn't look like the arbor you need. I find all sorts of things that way.


Thanks, Michelangelo.


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## GK1918 (Jul 26, 2015)

Takes 1/2 hour to machine one and maybe half of that is finding the stock in the junk pile.lol  you can do it!!!!!


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## Uglydog (Jul 26, 2015)

Very easy to make, if you have a lathe, and if you know how to thread.

Smoke Walker, if you have a lathe, but are new to threading, there are people here that will walk you through it. If it is your first time, you may end up with a few pieces of precision scrap. Consider them trophies. And hang them on the wall. 

Please let us know should you decide to thread this yourself and want some help. There might even be a HM in the Chicago are who might be willing/able to give you hands on mentorship.

Daryl
MN


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## SmokeWalker (Jul 26, 2015)

Uglydog said:


> Very easy to make, if you have a lathe, and if you know how to thread.
> 
> Smoke Walker, if you have a lathe, but are new to threading, there are people here that will walk you through it. If it is your first time, you may end up with a few pieces of precision scrap. Consider them trophies. And hang them on the wall.
> 
> ...





GK1918 said:


> Takes 1/2 hour to machine one and maybe half of that is finding the stock in the junk pile.lol  you can do it!!!!!





chips&more said:


> Why not just make the whole thing, easy project to do…Good Luck, Dave.



I do have a lathe!
And if there is anyone in Chicago who can help and is up for a trip to the far northwest side (!), I might be game. Send me a PM. I have a lot of work to do in the next few weeks, and

Even if I just reduced the diameter of one of the 3/4" ones, this seems like a job that should probably be done between centers, so I'd need to get a lathe dog, which I don't have.
I have done non-precision threading before, but for this I'd need to do an accurate 60º thread, and while in principle I should be fine, I'm a little nervous since I've got some projects that need to get finished ASAP, and I want to avoid losing any time if I can help it. 
Also, I've never ground a 60º cutting tool. I have a fish gauge, and I imagine I could work it out, but the cost/benefit analysis makes me wonder if it would be more productive and efficient to just shell out the money and buy the part ready made.


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## JimDawson (Jul 26, 2015)

SmokeWalker said:


> Even if I just reduced the diameter of one of the 3/4" ones, this seems like a job that should probably be done between centers, so I'd need to get a lathe dog, which I don't have.



Consider that the boring head shank does not need to be an absolute precision job.  The head is offset anyway to bore a hole.  The most important is that the face of the flange is true to the shank so the head doesn't wobble.  Chucking on the shank and facing the flange is all you need there.  The shank needs to be on-size and not tapered for a good fit in the holder.  The threaded end only needs to be a pretty good fit, this is done by test fitting as you are threading.  It is not important that the threads are exactly concentric with the shank, unless your lathe chuck is in really bad shape, it's close enough.


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## SmokeWalker (Jul 26, 2015)

JimDawson said:


> Consider that the boring head shank does not need to be an absolute precision job.  The head is offset anyway to bore a hole.  The most important is that the face of the flange is true to the shank so the head doesn't wobble.  Chucking on the shank and facing the flange is all you need there.  The shank needs to be on-size and not tapered for a good fit in the holder.  The threaded end only needs to be a pretty good fit, this is done by test fitting as you are threading.  It is not important that the threads are exactly concentric with the shank, unless your lathe chuck is in really bad shape, it's close enough.


Right!
This makes the turning down of the 3/4" sound much more manageable. What do you think about just chucking the flange in my 3 jaw (I'd use a 4 jaw independent, but I don't have one) and turning down the end of the shank to 5/8"?


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## Tony Wells (Jul 26, 2015)

That would be just fine.


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## SmokeWalker (Jul 26, 2015)

Tony Wells said:


> Turn it down





Tony Wells said:


> That would be just fine.



You win. 
I'll see what my little lathe can do!


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## Uglydog (Jul 26, 2015)

Please keep us posted on progress!
Mount the trophies on the wall. 
When you get frustrated years from now you can look up at them and think about how far you've come. 

Daryl
MN


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## hman (Jul 26, 2015)

I read that a 3/4" shank would be too large for your machine.  Would a 1/2" straight shank work?
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4824&category=


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## Uglydog (Jul 28, 2015)

Not sure if you have anything reads on threading.
There are many good ones available.
Here is one.
http://neme-s.org/Shaper Books/Tapers and tThreading.pdf

Daryl
MN


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## lewistoole (Jul 28, 2015)

If you don't feel confident enough to create one, Victor Machinery on line sells 1/2", 3/4" and 1" arbors in 7/8" X  20 tpi   for $16 ea.


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## SmokeWalker (Jul 28, 2015)

hman said:


> I read that a 3/4" shank would be too large for your machine.  Would a 1/2" straight shank work?
> http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4824&category=





lewistoole said:


> If you don't feel confident enough to create one, Victor Machinery on line sells 1/2", 3/4" and 1" arbors in 7/8" X  20 tpi   for $16 ea.





Uglydog said:


> Not sure if you have anything reads on threading.
> There are many good ones available.
> Here is one.
> http://neme-s.org/Shaper Books/Tapers and tThreading.pdf
> ...



I bought the 3/4" shank, and I think I'll turn it down. I'm pretty excited, honestly.


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## SmokeWalker (Jul 30, 2015)

Uglydog said:


> Not sure if you have anything reads on threading.
> There are many good ones available.
> Here is one.
> http://neme-s.org/Shaper Books/Tapers and tThreading.pdf
> ...


Well that was a good read. Thank you very much!


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