# Rack for Dewalt tools



## tjb

Here are some pictures of the rack I built for my Dewalt cordless tools.  Kudos to jdedmon91 for the idea.  I noticed in the intro on a couple of his newer videos, in the upper left corner he made some holders for his cordless tools out of PVC pipe.  I started with that idea but because I had some cast acrylic on hand, I decided to modify the idea a little.  The result turned out pretty nicely.  Because of the weight of the 1/2" impact wrench and the angle grinder, I incorporated four gussets for support.  Off to the left, you'll see the chargers mounted on a piece of Hardy board that a friend gave me.  Got room for one more charger.  Better go buy another tool.

Regards,
Terry


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## mmcmdl

Now that is what I need to do . Very nice !


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## tjb

mmcmdl said:


> Now that is what I need to do . Very nice !


Thanks.


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## richl

That is very sexy! I have been wondering what to do with all my 20v dewalt, this would be perfect. Add a few more slots for die grinders, zip bit routers... and maybe a circular saw and that problem is solved... thanks.


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## tjb

richl said:


> That is very sexy! I have been wondering what to do with all my 20v dewalt, this would be perfect. Add a few more slots for die grinders, zip bit routers... and maybe a circular saw and that problem is solved... thanks.


Thanks.  Actually, one of the advantages of designing it this way is how easy it would be to add more slots.  Great minds think alike!

Regards,
Terry


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## rwm

I love it! Did you start with acrylic sheet or was it some kind of channel? Is that just glued up?
Robert


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## tjb

rwm said:


> I love it! Did you start with acrylic sheet or was it some kind of channel? Is that just glued up?
> Robert


Thanks, Robert.

I started with 1/4" cast acrylic sheet and glued it up.  I had very good success on a previous project and had quite a bit left over, so I thought I'd give this a shot.  The back piece is 8" tall; the top is 6" deep (easily big enough for spare batteries or even chargers), and the spacers are 2"-ish (just enough to allow for an easy slide of the tool bases) spaced 3" apart.  The slot openings themselves are 1 5/8" - 1 3/4" (don't remember which I settled on).  The whole rack is just under 22".  The most challenging piece was the slotted support running under the tools.  You can't tell from the photos, but that piece, which holds all seven tools, is a single unit - joined together at the back by 1/2" of stock.  I originally thought to make individual pieces glued up separately, but I realized I could almost as easily mill it as a single unit.  The only complication was that due to the shape, I couldn't use my 6" vise.  I set up a fence on the mill table and took measurements for one slot - beginning to end.  At the end, I reset my DRO to zero and did the next, etc., etc.  The serpentine shape made it a much simpler matter to glue up - and it's sturdier.  The gussets are essentially eyeballed.  The front edge is 6" - give or take, but they're all identical.  I milled a 45 on one side of each, then clamped all four together and milled the other 45; re-clamped all four uniformly in my vise and finished the 6" side; flipped it and did the same on the other side.  I learned from RJSakowski that the bonding agent is not really a 'glue' in the traditional sense.  It actually has a chemical reaction with the acrylic and acts more as a 'weld' than a glue.  Based on my other projects, it seems to be an amazingly strong bond.  As a side note, if you plan on building something similar, keep in mind that 1/4" cast acrylic is not necessarily exactly 0.250".  I'm not sure if this is correct in all cases, but the high quality product I used is actually labeled 0.220" - even though it's advertised as 1/4".  When you have eight pieces in the equation, the cumulative error can be significant.  This is my only experience with buying cast acrylic, so measurements may vary among manufacturers.

This was actually a pretty fun and easy project.  I'm sure most of us routinely deal with the issue of not having enough space to keep all our toys, er, tools, and if there's a square inch of wall space available, it makes sense to utilize it.

Regards,
Terry


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## pontiac428

That is impressive! I normally don't consider plastics as a structural material for shop-made projects, but this is niiice! Too bad it's not for Bosch tools...


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## rwm

I have some rectangular aluminum tube 2" x 6" ...hmmmm

By the way, I personally would not charge Li batteries on or around a wood surface. For my ebike batteries they recommend only charging outdoors or in an ammo container or oven. I may build a dedicated charging station that is fireproof.
To wit- Samsung S7:




R


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## tjb

pontiac428 said:


> That is impressive! I normally don't consider plastics as a structural material for shop-made projects, but this is niiice! Too bad it's not for Bosch tools...


Well, I guess you can't have everything.  I agree: plastics doesn't pass a smell test as 'structural' to me either.  These tools, however, are pretty light.  I wouldn't even think of using plastic on my several electric power tools because they're MUCH heavier.  They're Dewalt as well.  Sorry.

Thanks for the response.

Regards,
Terry


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## tjb

rwm said:


> I have some rectangular aluminum tube 2" x 6" ...hmmmm
> 
> By the way, I personally would not charge Li batteries on or around a wood surface. For my ebike batteries they recommend only charging outdoors or in an ammo container or oven. I may build a dedicated charging station that is fireproof.
> To wit- Samsung S7:
> 
> View attachment 296660
> 
> 
> R


Whoa!!!  I didn't know that!  Been charging mine in and around studded walls for years, but that looks scary.  What would you think about a piece of 16 or 18 gauge sheet metal behind it with 6" or so sides above below and on the sides?  Kinda like a box hanging on its side with no lid?

Also, I actually thought about making mine out of 1/4" plate aluminum that I've got lying around, but I had one problem:  I STINK at TIG welding.  Made a good pass or two on steel, but all I've ever managed to do on aluminum is melt it into glob.  Someday, I'll come up with a project to practice on, but those tight inside corners were unquestionably beyond my skill level.  I would think aluminum tubing would be great because of the rounded corners.  If you try it, I'd love to see some pictures.

Regards,
Terry


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## rwm

Sheet metal would definitely help. Maybe some concrete board too? I don't mean to be alarmist; the chances are likely small but you never know. The ebike guys say they have only ever heard of fires when charging or if the battery was physically damaged.
Robert


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## hman

I like the design of your drill rack.  And last night, I was browsing Craigslist and found this similar one offered for sale:








						DRILL CADDY TOOL HOLDER
					

DRILL CADDY MADE FROM 3/4" PLYWOOD HOLDS UP TO 5 DRILLS - MOUNTED ON WALL SIX SOCKET ELECTRICAL EXTENSION AVAILABLE FOR $10.00 (NOT INCLUDED) PIC SHOWES 2 DRILLS HELD (NOT INCLUDED) SHELF ABOVE WILL...



					tucson.craigslist.org
				




Anyway, I know how to take a hint ... so I'm now in the process of building one for my own workbench.  Thanks for the concept!


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## richl

I priced the plastic, I can buy 1/2" Baltic birch cabinet grade plywood 4'x8' more affordably. Am I missing something?


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## mmcmdl

If I get the time tomorrow , I may just break out the saws and whip something similar to your rack . Perhaps that would help me in being able to locate all the BOTs laying everywhere .


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## tjb

hman said:


> I like the design of your drill rack.  And last night, I was browsing Craigslist and found this similar one offered for sale:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DRILL CADDY TOOL HOLDER
> 
> 
> DRILL CADDY MADE FROM 3/4" PLYWOOD HOLDS UP TO 5 DRILLS - MOUNTED ON WALL SIX SOCKET ELECTRICAL EXTENSION AVAILABLE FOR $10.00 (NOT INCLUDED) PIC SHOWES 2 DRILLS HELD (NOT INCLUDED) SHELF ABOVE WILL...
> 
> 
> 
> tucson.craigslist.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I know how to take a hint ... so I'm now in the process of building one for my own workbench.  Thanks for the concept!


Thanks, John.  I actually thought about adding a section above the shelf on mine to mount the chargers.  But since I already had those mounted, I decided to leave it alone.  Like Yogi says, "If it ain't broke, don't break it."  Also, I originally planned to hang the tools from the tool end instead of the handle, but it didn't take long to figure out they would be more balanced hanging from the handle, it took less material, and tool identification was a non-issue.

P.S.:  Wouldn't take twenty bucks for mine.

Regards,
Terry


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## tjb

richl said:


> I priced the plastic, I can buy 1/2" Baltic birch cabinet grade plywood 4'x8' more affordably. Am I missing something?


No, you're not missing anything.  The plastic is definitely going to cost more than cabinet grade plywood.  I already had the plastic in my shop, so for me, it was a no-brainer.  I have to say though, given the way it turned out, I think I like it better made out of the plastic anyway.  It's more compact, and it'll probably last thirty or more years where you'll probably only get twenty out of the plywood.

I had to buy some plastic for a larger project, and I'm actually glad I had a fair amount left over.  I've already found all kinds of uses for the extra (draw liners, small machine parts holders, etc.), and it's very easy to work with.  Another option that will work very nicely is what jdedmon91 used: PVC pipe with slots cut out to slide the tools into.  Not sure how he mounted them to his wall, but it certainly looks like it would work.  If he's following this thread, maybe he could offer a comment?

Regards,
Terry


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## tjb

mmcmdl said:


> If I get the time tomorrow , I may just break out the saws and whip something similar to your rack . Perhaps that would help me in being able to locate all the BOTs laying everywhere .


If you do, post some pix.  Would love to see how yours turn out.

Regards,
Terry


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## mmcmdl

tjb said:


> If you do, post some pix. Would love to see how yours turn out.



No you wouldn't , really .  You'd see the mess around it .


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## tjb

richl said:


> I priced the plastic, I can buy 1/2" Baltic birch cabinet grade plywood 4'x8' more affordably. Am I missing something?


P.S.:  Don't know where you're pricing the plastic, but I got mine off ebay.  Much cheaper that way.  If you decide to use the plastic (cast acrylic) make sure you get the right kind of solvent.  There are several types, and they don't all work the same.  If you want more info, I can get it for you tomorrow.

Regards,
Terry


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## tjb

mmcmdl said:


> No you wouldn't , really .  You'd see the mess around it .


That may be the best part!  A messy shop means it's being used for its intended purpose.  (You shoulda seen mine before I cleaned up for the pix!)

Regards


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## tjb

hman said:


> I like the design of your drill rack.  And last night, I was browsing Craigslist and found this similar one offered for sale:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DRILL CADDY TOOL HOLDER
> 
> 
> DRILL CADDY MADE FROM 3/4" PLYWOOD HOLDS UP TO 5 DRILLS - MOUNTED ON WALL SIX SOCKET ELECTRICAL EXTENSION AVAILABLE FOR $10.00 (NOT INCLUDED) PIC SHOWES 2 DRILLS HELD (NOT INCLUDED) SHELF ABOVE WILL...
> 
> 
> 
> tucson.craigslist.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I know how to take a hint ... so I'm now in the process of building one for my own workbench.  Thanks for the concept!


John,

Send us some pix when you're done.

Regards,
Terry


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## hman

Terry, your wish is my command.  I built the workbench and shelf last October.  Added the charging station just  couple months ago.  Your drill holder rack design fit right in!  Thanks again for the idea.


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## tjb

hman said:


> Terry, your wish is my command.  I built the workbench and shelf last October.  Added the charging station just  couple months ago.  Your drill holder rack design fit right in!  Thanks again for the idea.
> View attachment 296689
> View attachment 296690


Oh, wow!  Very, very nice.  I love the beveled edges.  Beautiful work!

richl, there's a visual for you on using good quality plywood instead of plastic.  Just as practical and looks great, too.

Thanks for sharing, John.

Regards,
Terry


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## hman

Thanks for the kind words, Terry.  I used some plywood I had on hand.  Strangely enough, even here in Arid-zona, the (lengthwise) half sheet had gained a strong resemblance to a potato chip over a couple months.  I'd even had it clamped down on the rack during storage!  It was fighting me all the way when I had it on the table saw.  Fortunately, the curvature was easier to handle once I had it cut down to final size and used drywall screws at all joints.

I do have some Corian offcuts and leftovers (½" thick, acrylic) that I get cheap at a building materials outlet store.  Considered using it, but I wanted a ½" radius roundover.  You need at least 1/8" thicker material to guide the bearing at the end of the router bit, so the ½" wouldn't have worked.  My favorite use for the Corian lately is as an easy-to-machine material for prototyping/test cuts on my little CNC mill.


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## tjb

hman said:


> Thanks for the kind words, Terry.  I used some plywood I had on hand.  Strangely enough, even here in Arid-zona, the (lengthwise) half sheet had gained a strong resemblance to a potato chip over a couple months.  I'd even had it clamped down on the rack during storage!  It was fighting me all the way when I had it on the table saw.  Fortunately, the curvature was easier to handle once I had it cut down to final size and used drywall screws at all joints.
> 
> I do have some Corian offcuts and leftovers (½" thick, acrylic) that I get cheap at a building materials outlet store.  Considered using it, but I wanted a ½" radius roundover.  You need at least 1/8" thicker material to guide the bearing at the end of the router bit, so the ½" wouldn't have worked.  My favorite use for the Corian lately is as an easy-to-machine material for prototyping/test cuts on my little CNC mill.


It definitely turned out fine.  I was wondering how you joined the pieces together.  Drywall screws is a great idea.

Regards,
Terry


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## jdedmon91

Thanks for the shout out. Mine are simple compared to yours. All I did was use drain pipe drill holes and cut notches. Guys woodworkers use this system all the time. I have one with a back for the cordless ratchet two mor
To store heat guns. Really love the brackets those are awesome and neater than mine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tjb

jdedmon91 said:


> Thanks for the shout out. Mine are simple compared to yours. All I did was use drain pipe drill holes and cut notches. Guys woodworkers use this system all the time. I have one with a back for the cordless ratchet two mor
> To store heat guns. Really love the brackets those are awesome and neater than mine
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the compliments.  The rack turned out nice, but I would have never thought of even trying it if I had not seen the ones you made out of drain pipe.  In fact, if I had some PVC in my shop, I probably STILL wouldn't have thought of it.  Like they say, necessity is the mother of invention - the plastic was there, and I needed a rack, so there you go.

Thanks again.

Regards,
Terry


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## Be_Zero_Be

Those home made ones are really nice - great job.
I was about to make one but I found this commercial one at the Grizzly tent sale.
It fits perfectly on the end of my stand up back bench




.


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## tjb

Be_Zero_Be said:


> Those home made ones are really nice - great job.
> I was about to make one but I found this commercial one at the Grizzly tent sale.
> It fits perfectly on the end of my stand up back bench
> 
> 
> View attachment 296756
> 
> .


I KNEW I should have patented that Friday!  That's nice.  Had no idea there was a commercial one available.  That one looks like light-gauge steel.  Right/wrong?

Regards,
Terry


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## Be_Zero_Be

It’s powder coated. 
.065 overall thickness. 
It’s quite sturdy.


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## tjb

Be_Zero_Be said:


> It’s powder coated.
> .065 overall thickness.
> It’s quite sturdy.


0.065 makes it 16 gauge.  That is pretty sturdy.  Nice find.


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