# I Made A Mag Dial Indicator On My Atlas 618 For My Atlas 618



## jster1963 (Apr 4, 2015)

Hey guys,
I turned some aluminum cans into a magnetic dial indicator holder.  I'm so proud of it and it's really useful.  If you want to watch me make it, you can check out my Journey to Journeyman video on youtube.  Be gentle guys I'm a novice.......
http://youtu.be/XPfuuUj8TxI


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## wa5cab (Apr 4, 2015)

That looks quite well done.


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## JR49 (Apr 5, 2015)

Jster1963,    I've watched all your "journey to journeyman" videos, and love how you always admit  your mistakes. I feel like we are learning this stuff together. As far as making this great looking tool with your melted aluminum cans, well, after watching your video about melting alum. I have been collecting parts for a "forge".   Am still looking for a good "container" to melt the alum. in, without having any burn-throughs like you had, (once again thanks for being man enough to show  your mistakes, so others can learn from them) I was thinking some kind of cast iron pot. Any advise on a proper and durable container? Thanks, and great looking tool, JR49


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## jster1963 (Apr 5, 2015)

*wa5cab:*  Thank you and it really works well.

*JR49:*  Thank you very much!  Sometimes it is hard to post the mistakes, especially the silly one.  But just like you said, maybe someone else can learn from it.  As far as a container for melting the aluminum, If you can find a cast iron pot, use it.  I have been looking for a good cast iron pot myself.  I'm using a stainless steel pot from Target.  It feels like 3/16" thick.  I just made a kiln with my sons and I hope to be melting again soon.  Thanks again and good luck with yours......


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## itsme_Bernie (Apr 5, 2015)

Awesome Jester!!  And isn't it exciting to go from recycled metal to your own new part!!   That's fantastic!  Inspiring!! 

Bernie 


Bernie


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## mattthemuppet2 (Apr 5, 2015)

that is pretty darn cool!


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## ogberi (Apr 6, 2015)

Molten aluminum will dissolve stainless steel, so beware of that.  It slowly degrades steel, but I found scaling of the steel to be a worse problem.  My old crucible is a piece of 3" pipe, with a chunk of 1/4" thick steel welded to the bottom.  I have some parts I want to cast, but need to make a bigger crucible.  I have some 4" pipe that I can cut down, but need to lop off another chunk of plate with an angle grinder & cutoff wheel for the bottom.  That should let me get about 8-9 lbs melted at a time.

I have been using cheap fireclay crucibles, but the prices have skyrocketed.  I'll stick with steel pipe crucibles, and save the fireclay ones for brass/bronze and cast iron.


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## JR49 (Apr 6, 2015)

ogberi said:


> I found scaling of the steel to be a worse problem



Ogberi, Could you elaborate on this? I have access to steel  pipe and could weld a plate on bottom, but what do I do about this "scaling" ?  Thanks JR49


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## ogberi (Apr 6, 2015)

The steel 'scales', or basically rusts in big flat sheets from the intense heating/cooling cycles.  This eventually wears down the thickness of the crucible walls, but mine are around 1/4" thick or so (I believe it's schedule 40 pipe).  On the outside, the scale isn't so much of an issue, but on the inside it can pollute your melt a little.  I tend to heat the crucible empty to good red-orange heat, then lay it on it's side in the sand pit and scrape out the worst of the scale with my skimming tool.  Then it's back into the furnace and it gets charged with aluminum.   It takes more fuel to get the crucibles up to temperature, but it decreases melt time on subsequent melts.  I generally try to pour at least 4-5 crucibles (2-4 hours worth of foundry work) if I'm going to fire it up.  Takes more propane for the first melt than the subsequent melts, so it's more fuel-economical. 

On my 3" crucible I welded short (3/4" long, 1/2" diameter) 'lugs' to the top on the sides for a lifting/pouring shank to get ahold of, and a ring at the base so I can tilt the crucible via a handle with a small hook at the end.   For the larger crucible, I'll probably use two rings on the top to lift, and a third at the bottom to tip the crucible.    

The steel crucibles will rust like crazy.  The heating/cooling cycles, plus the scale, flux and degassing chemicals.  Molten aluminum dissolves steel very slowly, so you do pollute your melt a little bit, but I've never noticed any drastic changes in the aluminum's machineability  or properties.  Eventually, the crucibles will get to a point where they are unsafe to use.  Toss 'em, and make new ones. I've got maybe 70-80 melts on my steel pipe crucible, and it's still good to go. 

I prefer to keep my aluminums separated by three different types.  The first is cast aluminum, cylinder heads, transmission housings, alternator housings, etc.  These are generally sand-cast parts and the aluminum has a high silicon content that helps it flow better and take up more detail.   

The next is die-cast aluminum.  Hard drive housings (I'm a network and systems admin, I get dead drives by the metric ton...), some car parts, etc.  Die cast aluminum parts generally have very finely finished surfaces, completely unlike a sand cast part.  Typically very smooth surface, thin parting lines (if any), and numerous small cast features.  Die cast aluminum is lower in Silicon than sand cast aluminum, as the dies are filled by hydraulic pressure vs hydrostatic pressure.  

The last is extruded aluminum.  Most aluminum bar stock is extruded aluminum.  If it machines well, it should cast decently, although tossing in some good high silicon cast aluminum helps it fill fine details.   Ladders, aluminum channel,  heatsinks, etc.  Any aluminum I can't readily identify goes into this bucket.  It isn't bad, and still makes decent castings, but I prefer good cast aluminum for castings that have thin sections or lots of detail.  

I don't recommend melting pop cans or aluminum swarf, though.  Pop cans are fairly pure aluminum, and the resulting castings can be softer than expected.   It's also dangerous as heck.  If there's *any* liquid left in the cans, it can cause a steam explosion that will splatter molten aluminum everywhere.  Also, the cans are thin, and oxidize a lot unless you shove them under the surface, which can cause the above scenario.   Swarf is much the same - It's so thin it oxidizes more than it melts, the oils and whatnot cause more dross, and the burning oils in the melt increase the hydrogen content, causing porosity in the castings.  The swarf can be compressed into a block, but I'm still leery of a boiling-liquid explosion sending molten aluminum everywhere.   

Lastly, don't try to use a steel crucible for brass/bronze or cast iron.  The brass/bronze will do a wonderful job of brazing itself to the crucible, and I don't trust the mechanical strength of the steel crucible at cast iron temperatures.   Cast iron, brass, and bronze are about 3x as heavy as aluminum.  So a #10 crucible (10 pounds of aluminum), weighs around 30-ish pounds when full of cast iron.  At the end of a 4' pouring shank, that's a considerable amount of weight.  And trust me, 4' is barely long enough.  Cast iron is nearly white hot, and the radiant heat it throws off is *insane!*  

Sorry for the long post, but I just enjoy sharing what I know about foundry work.  It's enjoyable in itself, and greatly expands the possibilities for a hobby machinist with a limited budget.    Feel free to ask more questions, and I'll try to get some pics of my equipment in the next day or so. 

Thanks!


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## jster1963 (Apr 7, 2015)

itsme_Bernie said:


> Awesome Jester!!  And isn't it exciting to go from recycled metal to your own new part!!   That's fantastic!  Inspiring!!
> 
> Bernie
> 
> ...


Thank you very much Berine!  It's fun too......


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## jster1963 (Apr 7, 2015)

*Matt C:*  Thank you so much!  It was fun to do too.....

*ogberi:*  Thank you for the comment and the very useful information!  I don't do a lot of casting.  I just wanted to try melting aluminum in a home made furnace, and I was shocked that it worked.  I just made a small furnace and will try melting more cans.  I totally understand that it is not the best way to get aluminum,  but I like being able to take trash and turn it into something.  Also, I will probably melt 2 times a year.  If I can find some thick walled pipe, I would like to make a crucible like yours.  I will post it if I do.  Thanks again......


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## ICanBreakIt (Apr 29, 2015)

Hey guys, here is a site for casting equipment that you might find useful.   Also, avoid heating galvanized pipe as it can releases deadly gas. 

http://www.budgetcastingsupply.com/Aluminum-Flux-and-Degasser-s/1827.htm


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## Ed of all trades (Jun 13, 2015)

Jster Great video, thanks, 
do you like your milling attachment enough that you would buy one.  The ones on Ebay are going for around $300 and I would still need collets and a closer.  I guess that is how the end mills are held. would like your input.  I have an Atlas 618 that I am trying to get up and going,
                                                                                                                                                                           thanks Ed


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## David S (Jun 13, 2015)

Ed while we wait for Jster to reply, and btw I miss his videos, I can share my experience.

I have a 618 that I got years ago, and finally decided to get the milling attachment.  My assessment is that it good for light milling - I normally work with aluminum and brass - all your gibbs have to be tight.  However it does have a fairly small work envelop.  For what I was doing at the time it was better than a file and hacksaw.  Against what everyone one will advise I did hold the milling cutters in my jacobs three jaw chuck without issue.

I have since converted my JET drill press to a mill and it is far superior to the Atlas milling attachment IMHO.  When this packs it in or doesn't meet my needs I will step up to a small "real" mill.  And I hold all my milling cutter up to 13mm in the provided three jaw chuck.

David


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## Ed of all trades (Jun 13, 2015)

Thanks David,  With the money involved I am beginning to think that I should get a small or mini mill of some kind.


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## jster1963 (Jun 14, 2015)

Ed of all trades said:


> Jster Great video, thanks,
> do you like your milling attachment enough that you would buy one.  The ones on Ebay are going for around $300 and I would still need collets and a closer.  I guess that is how the end mills are held. would like your input.  I have an Atlas 618 that I am trying to get up and going,
> thanks Ed


Ed, David S is right!  I got the milling attachment with another lathe.  The entire lathe with the milling attachment was $350, so it was a  "no brainer" to buy.  I just bought it for the milling attachment and change gears.  I gave the lathe (which is in EXCELLENT condition) to my brother.  The envelope is small and you have to make very light cuts.  I plan to get a mill when I can.  I will post a Journey To Journeyman video soon and use the mill quite a bit.  You can kinda see the envelope.  Anyway, thank you very much and if you can get one cheap, do it........


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## Ed of all trades (Jun 15, 2015)

Thanks Jster, Just trying to figure this thing out. I want a shop with big equipment and all the extras but I am trying to take the baby steps that I can. Just don't want to take a step that won't help.


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## basildoug10 (Jul 28, 2015)

jster1963 said:


> View attachment 98939
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> 
> Hey guys,
> ...


Hi jster, a really interesting post, I enjoyed it very much, it reminds me of all the mistakes that I make. I am relatively new to machining but I am really getting into it with all the info that you guys post. It is a wealth of information. Thank you. Regards Basil


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## jster1963 (Aug 4, 2015)

Basil:  Thank you very much!  This place has be such a wealth of information for me too.  I'm making mistakes, but I am learning and having a ball.   I'm trying to get my mistakes to be less and less;-)  Thanks again.......


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## Fairbanks (Aug 5, 2015)

Just watched the video.  Great Job!!


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## jster1963 (Aug 5, 2015)

*Fairbanks*: Thank you very much!


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## utterstan (Jan 12, 2016)

I love your videos thanks for making them.


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## jster1963 (Jan 13, 2016)

utterstan said:


> I love your videos thanks for making them.


Thank you very much!


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