# Atlas Super Power Motor Rebuild Referrals Needed



## Strtspdlx (Apr 4, 2015)

Well I put it all together ran it for about 35 min now the motor puts a heavy load on my circuit and pops the breaker. I have a feeling it has to do with the wiring of it as it's mostly all cracked and dry rotted. I tried to shrink wrap it to keep it going but I'm not sure it helped. Anyway I'd like to rebuild it but I'm not very confident in doing so as I'm having serious issues getting it apart and the colors of the wires are completely gone so I can't tell what's supposed to go were. It does have a voltage chart on the cover plate to switch from 110/220 or as it refers too high voltage and low voltage. If anyone can refer me to a motor rebuilder or give me insight on how it comes apart and possibly a wiring diagram of sorts I'd appreciate it. I can replace the wires and such I just don't have a good starting point electrically because I can't tell what's what now and I can't get the rear cover off mainly because I fear breaking something. 


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## wa5cab (Apr 4, 2015)

Strtspdlx,

Please set up your Signature.  The above is much to much trouble to spell.

You need to find a local motor rewind shop and take your motor to them.  They can also check the motor for internal shorts in the three windings.  

If I had the motor on the bench here, I could probably write instructions on how to rewire it.  Or just rewire it.  But I wouldn't even attempt to do it remotely.  Too much chance of your ending up as a crispy critter.


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## Strtspdlx (Apr 5, 2015)

wa5cab said:


> Strtspdlx,
> 
> Please set up your Signature.  The above is much to much trouble to spell.
> 
> ...



I couldn't find any local rewind shops from a Google search or from people I know who've had them rebuilt. All that had them rebuilt said they had to mail to manufacturer for repair. I was hoping someone knew of a very reputable shop I could mail mine too for repair. 

Also I use Tapatalk for browsing several forums and I'm not sure there's an option to setup a signature. I suppose remembering to post my name at the end of the post would help

Thanks-Carlo 


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## wa5cab (Apr 5, 2015)

Carlo,

First, Signature is a feature of Xenforo, not your browser.  I am totally unfamiliar with Tapatalk.  If I had to depend upon Safari, I wouldn't be here.    If it has the equivalent of a mouse pointer, go to the top right of almost any screen and hover the pointer over your User ID.  This should bring up a dropdown.  Slide down and to the left and click on Signature.

Back to the motor, if the flexible wires with which you configure it for voltage and run direction were in good condition, we could probably figure out how to tell you how to hook it up.  But my understanding is that at a minimum, the flexible leads coming out of the motor are in bad condition and need to be replaced.  And there may be other problems.  If I were looking for a place here in Houston, I would start with the Yellow Pages, but a lot of people these days don't have real telephone service and won't have the book.  If no one here pipes up with a local suggestion up there, a quick search turned up Main Line Electric at (856) 848-1312.  They are probably a supply house, or an electrical contractor.  But whomever answers the phone there, or one of the salespersons, should be able to point you to a motor repair shop.


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## Strtspdlx (Apr 5, 2015)

Alright I appreciate it a lot. To say the least it needs help. 
	

		
			
		

		
	



I'd love to keep it as I want to try to stay as original on this machine as possible but it's looking less and less like that's going to be a possibility. 


Regards-Carlo


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## wa5cab (Apr 5, 2015)

Yep.  I would be hesitant to use it looking like that, too.


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## yendor (Apr 5, 2015)

My distributor out of Harrisburg, PA uses an Amish guy to rewind and rewire motors for the food machines he services.
I'll get their contact info and post it. They are out in the Lancaster area.


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## Strtspdlx (Apr 5, 2015)

yendor said:


> My distributor out of Harrisburg, PA uses an Amish guy to rewind and rewire motors for the food machines he services.
> I'll get their contact info and post it. They are out in the Lancaster area.



I appreciate it. My mother in-law goes out that way once a month to visit her mother in York and buy furniture from the Amish. If I'm lucky I may be able to get her to drop it off for me.


Regards-Carlo


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## Strtspdlx (Apr 5, 2015)

Well I got it apart. Damaged the start capacitor insulation. Not to happy about that as it was in pristine shape. Testing the windings and it seems I have a short start winding had continuity but constantly climbing. Wire labeled "2" and opposing wire had continuity but steady climbing. And just about every wire had continuity. I'm not very smart with motors but I'd think I'd have atleast one seperate circuit?  If anyone has some insight let me know. 
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
thats the bottom of the reactor maybe it's a date stop? Who knows 


Regards-Carlo


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## wa5cab (Apr 6, 2015)

I didn't mean that you needed to pull the windings out of the motor housing.

If it is a 110/220 capacitor start motor, normally the start winding is 110 only.  So there would be two run windings and one start winding.  For a total of six wires coming out, not counting any coming from the switch or capacitor.   Each winding should have two wires (one pair).  There should be continuity between the two wires of each pair, and infinite resistance between wires from different pairs.  The two run windings should have approximately the same resistance.  The start winding should be a lower.value.  But whatever they are, the resistance values should all be constant.


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## JimDawson (Apr 6, 2015)

Is the capacitor still in the circuit?  That would explain why the reading is changing.  Normally I would expect the windings to hold a steady reading.


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## Strtspdlx (Apr 6, 2015)

Nope I desoldered the one wire from the start capacitor to remove the reactor. The start winding had a good value. All the others were fluctuating. I'll retest them again tonight so I can give approximate values. And the start capacitor tested good. As in set meter to ohms/continuity test two leads reading should rise and fall. Switch leads reading should rise and fall again. 


Regards-Carlo


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## Strtspdlx (Apr 6, 2015)

Sim going to attempt to post some videos here just for fun and to show how I tested 













Regards-Carlo


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## markba633csi (Nov 15, 2016)

Carlo: Make sure your meter connections are good.  The windings might still be OK, but you need to check and double check your connections. Sounds like the cap is good (at least your rising and falling test sounds OK, and that's the best test if you don't have a capacitance meter). 
Usually,  for 120 volt, you have two bundles of three wires each.  The power connects to those. Pretty simple. 
Like Jim D. said, you want steady ohm readings and no shorts or leakage to ground (the motor frame).  
Mark S.


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## wa5cab (Nov 16, 2016)

markba633csi said:


> Usually,  for 120 volt, you have two bundles of three wires each.  The power connects to those.
> Mark S.



To clarify, in a 120 VAC single phase motor that does not have a terminal strip or spade terminals. two bundles of three wires would include the two line wires.  Two bundles of three wires PLUS the two line wires would be found in a 120/240 VAC motor connected for 120 VAC.

And as another general comment, if you can still find one, an analog multimeter is generally superior to a digital one for this sort of work.


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## CluelessNewB (Nov 16, 2016)

That motor was made by Kingston-Conley.   They made many of the Atlas and Walker Turner motors.  Identifying the wire colors can sometimes be a challenge.  Here are some diagrams from a Walker Turner version that might help.   They are nice motors worth fixing.


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## Silverbullet (Nov 16, 2016)

If you still want the motor repair business. Williar electric  it's in Gibbsboro , NJ. Ck the Camden county yellow pages. I've dealt with them for many years always good repairs and prices.


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## Wierd Harold (Nov 16, 2016)

I agree , Williar  has been around forever. I think they use to be in Laural Springs.
HWF


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## Silverbullet (Nov 16, 2016)

Wierd Harold said:


> I agree , Williar  has been around forever. I think they use to be in Laural Springs.
> HWF


He is right on the border edge. this side of the rail road tracks. pretty sure but no matter there still there as far as I know. so it's a matter of post office.  trying to find it the first times always the hardest.  Off the beaten path so to speak. I need a starter for a ge motor guess ill be seeing them.


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