# Bridgeport Power Feed 6f Motor Mount Question



## expressline99

Hi guys, I'm about to remount the motor on my power feed to the gearbox. At some point someone told me using a bit of RTV is recommended for the area around the mounting flange. Just where the mating surfaces are and in the two reset screw holes. But I forget what type of RTV. It was either red or blue. One was said to get into the gearbox  and one not so much... any ideas?

Also, there appears to be a recessed area around the base of the shaft for a large o-ring? This is the area just before the first rise in height from the mounting plate. Looks to be about 2-3/4" ? I can't find any diagrams that show an o-ring there and I assume using the RTV will take care of this anyway.

Thanks,
Paul


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## chips&more

Hi Paul, make sure you carefully clean all the carbon dust out of the motor. And check the front and back bearings. I typically see bad or dirty bearings. And RTV around the flange should be just fine. Maybe those rubber sealing washers would be a good idea for the mounting bolts? The motor will self-align when you install it. The housing cover on the other side of the motor side gets a gasket. Glad to hear you are using the genuine Bridgeport feed. I think the other feeds are crap. Good Luck…Dave.


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## Bob Korves

I would use anaerobic gasket sealer instead of RTV anywhere there is a decent fit.  It does not harden unless confined in a small space, and any excess dissolves in the oil.  RTV has ruined many a machine, and lots of automotive engines.  If you do use RTV on machine parts, remember you aren't caulking your house...


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## expressline99

chips&more said:


> Hi Paul, make sure you carefully clean all the carbon dust out of the motor. And check the front and back bearings. I typically see bad or dirty bearings. And RTV around the flange should be just fine. Maybe those rubber sealing washers would be a good idea for the mounting bolts? The motor will self-align when you install it. The housing cover on the other side of the motor side gets a gasket. Glad to hear you are using the genuine Bridgeport feed. I think the other feeds are crap. Good Luck…Dave.



Hey Dave, the reason I took the whole thing off started with the "magic smoke" the motor was giving off. When I took it apart the inside of the motor had oil residue everywhere. I cleaned it out and while I was at it replaced the brush holders, brushes and caps. The bearing on the output side of the shaft had a odd dragging feeling to it when spun with my fingers so I replaced it. The other side seemed just fine. 

I just put in a new light and new fuse holder on the front panel. Still need to clean out everything in the gearbox it has either really old oil or blackened grease here and there...other than that the inside was dry when I got it. I wonder how long it's been since it's had oil... I have a new gasket for the front cover where the oil sight glass is. 

****Note for anyone taking off the front cover where the oil level is... there is a detent pin that is spring loaded. It is seated in the front cover and will spring out. Nice and easy to lose. Anyway this pin and spring push against the "clutch detent cam". It stops the clutch from going to far in either direction as you shift it.  

I'll have to take a picture of the o-ring recess that I see on the motor flange. 

Now that I've been reading on RTV vs anaerobic gasket sealer I think I've got to go back to the auto part store tomorrow.  I like the idea that the extra will dissolve in the oil. I assume when hardened that it's oil resistant?


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## Rick_B

I'm in the middle of the same project Pasul so I have some of the same questions.  I completely disassembled all the pieces and parts on mine and there was a lot of red material at the sealing joints - it peeled right off so I'm not sure what it was.  I also purchased some new parts including the front cover gasket.  What is your plan for installing that gasket?  Does it go on dry or would you use some type of light oil coating or gasket adhesive?

Regarding your O ring question - mine actually has two O rings on the shaft side of the motor - I have not seen them on any of the parts lists I have but there is not too much information available on the motor that I have found.  I'll try to get some pictures later today.

I've read that the weak point of this feeder is oil leaks into the electronics but I am concerned about the mtor mounting flange as well

Rick


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## Rick_B

So here's the pictures of the O rings on my motor - not sure  if they are original or previous owner added.

This is the outside face of the bearing retainer on the shaft end of the motor




This is the inside face of what I am calling a seal plate - also on the shaft end of the motor




When installed - these O rings appear to butt up to each other - not sure if they are helping, hurting or have no effect

Rick


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## expressline99

Hey Rick, 
I had to go out and take the plate off the end of my motor to see this. Mine doesn't have an o-ring there. But it looks like it should have one. 
The one I was talking about (I think) goes where I'm pointing in the attached picture. 

On the gasket I will probably just put a light film of the gearbox oil on it and both mating surfaces. I don't plan on using any type of gasket adhesive. Unless someone else has input on that?

I also replaced the shaft seal in the gearbox last night. Mine was completely chewed up in there. I believe you are right about the electronics getting oiled but the shaft seal 
should handle that. Overfilling the gearbox is another problem I read about.


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## Rick_B

That looks like a good place for an O ring Paul.  I also got a new shaft seal.  I'm having trouble getting the clutch shaft to go through the bottom bushing - it goes about halfway so I ordered a new bushing to eliminate that variable.  I'm hoping the shaft isn't bent.

I'm assuming (but don't know for sure) that the oil level should be about half way up the sight glass?

Do you have any concerns about oil leaks around the bearing shaft seats in the gearbox housing - I'm tlking about the drive shaft inboard and outboard bearings?

Rick


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## expressline99

Rick_B said:


> That looks like a good place for an O ring Paul.  I also got a new shaft seal.  I'm having trouble getting the clutch shaft to go through the bottom bushing - it goes about halfway so I ordered a new bushing to eliminate that variable.  I'm hoping the shaft isn't bent.
> 
> I'm assuming (but don't know for sure) that the oil level should be about half way up the sight glass?
> 
> Do you have any concerns about oil leaks around the bearing shaft seats in the gearbox housing - I'm tlking about the drive shaft inboard and outboard bearings?
> 
> Rick


My clutch shaft was bent at the top just below the handle. So it didn't interfere with the bushings. But I took the bend out somewhat by putting it in a vise and using a piece of square tubing. It's really soft metal. Bends easy. I didn't have to do that where it enters a bushing though. Might have to replace it. 

My sight glass still has the marks on it and it appears to be half way up. So the oil level will be really low. By the looks of it it maybe just below the edge of the drive shaft bearings. I don't think it will leak. Mine doesn't seem to have leaked before but its been many years since it's seen oil.


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## expressline99

Hey Rick after messing around at the auto parts store today. I bought several o-rings and managed to get anaerobic gasket sealer (o'reilly's 51813) was $5.99 for a tiny tube. I bought the two they had considering they both contain less than an oz.. they didn't have the larger tubes. As well, I had to go to two different stores apparently only some carry it. Anyhow, after all this I couldn't find an o ring to work on the larger diameter and I'm unhappy with how far out the collar is pushed out on the motor where you have yours.  So on both the motor flange and the collar I'll be using the sealer I bought without the rings. Hopefully that will workout.


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## Bob Korves

The 51813 anaerobic sealer is Permatex brand (once a parts guy, always a parts guy) and needs to be confined to within a fifteen thousandths (.015") or less to harden.  Let it set up for a day or so at 70 degrees F., much longer in the cold before putting oil in the case.  Bigger gaps also take longer to set up...


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## expressline99

Bob Korves said:


> The 51813 anaerobic sealer is Permatex brand (once a parts guy, always a parts guy) and needs to be confined to within a fifteen thousandths (.015") or less to harden.  Let it set up for a day or so at 70 degrees F., much longer in the cold before putting oil in the case.  Bigger gaps also take longer to set up...



OK tomorrow I'll be cleaning up the surfaces and getting it put back together. I guess I'll just bring the entire assembly into the house to cure before reattaching to the mill. Wonder how that will go with the wife. I'll have to find a place near a radiator to keep it toasty for the next day or two. Thanks Bob I appreciate the help on the anaerobic sealer. A couple of the parts guys didn't know what I was talking about but tried hard to help. Once I got to the store that had it several non-millennial guys knew exactly what it was. 

Paul


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## Bob Korves

Anaerobic merely means that it works in the absence of air.  The squeeze tubes are actually porous so it does not set up in the tube.


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## expressline99

Well just for testing I wired the motor back up before putting it all together. It did not respond to feed control until I turned it up a bit. Once it moved I turned it up a bit more and sure enough it blew the fuse. So I'm at a loss as to why.


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## expressline99

So I've gone back to this and took the circuit board out. Cleaned it thoroughly with contact cleaner as suggested. I also spent a couple of hours going through the resistors on the board. De soldering, testing and re-soldering. I've found a couple that are out of tolerance so I will replace those.  On those odd bullet/tapered (diodes?) any ideas on what i can replace them with? I haven't gotten as far as figuring out how to test them or even what else to test on the board. I'd like to test and replace everything on the board that needs it. Any pointers? I have the diagrams and I am too much of an amateur to read much of it.  

And another side note for anyone deciding to do this make sure you have a solder sucker(spring loaded kind is what I have). They work great and are cheap. Tin the end of your soldering iron each time before de-soldering. Makes it a ton easier and don't linger when heating up the solder on the board you can lift your pads/traces. Those solder wicks are terrible.


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## expressline99

Today I found a capacitor that had a broken leg. I can't imagine that it would have worked at all with that disconnected so I'm not totally sure that was like that before I started working on it. 

Anyone have any idea what Watts the resistors are on that board? They all appear to be 1/2 watt but I'm not certain.  I am however certain that Radio Shack doesn't have any of my needed resistors and the capacitors they had were 35 volt instead of 25v so that won't work either. Looks like I'll be ordering online. Bummer.

All the diodes seem to be OK I checked those today. Also pulled the motor apart again and cleaned it more thoroughly with the contact cleaner. The commutator was dinged up and worn unevenly. So I put it on the Logan and turned it down a few hairs and then cleaned it up with some 600 grit sand paper. 

Tomorrow the other capacitors (get to try the new tester I got at the shack for this.) Also get to check the Pots and the two transformers if I can figure it out.  After that all that is left I think is the micro switches that control the direction of feed. Oh and the pot for the speed control.  All a good learning experience.


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## Bob Korves

expressline99 said:


> Today I found a capacitor that had a broken leg. I can't imagine that it would have worked at all with that disconnected so I'm not totally sure that was like that before I started working on it.
> 
> Anyone have any idea what Watts the resistors are on that board? They all appear to be 1/2 watt but I'm not certain.  I am however certain that Radio Shack doesn't have any of my needed resistors and the capacitors they had were 35 volt instead of 25v so that won't work either. Looks like I'll be ordering online. Bummer.
> 
> All the diodes seem to be OK I checked those today. Also pulled the motor apart again and cleaned it more thoroughly with the contact cleaner. The commutator was dinged up and worn unevenly. So I put it on the Logan and turned it down a few hairs and then cleaned it up with some 600 grit sand paper.
> 
> Tomorrow the other capacitors (get to try the new tester I got at the shack for this.) Also get to check the Pots and the two transformers if I can figure it out.  After that all that is left I think is the micro switches that control the direction of feed. Oh and the pot for the speed control.  All a good learning experience.


Wattage on the resistors does not matter as long as you go with the same or higher rating and they can physically fit.  The higher voltage rating for a capacitor is a good thing, can handle higher transient peaks.  Again, don't go lower, make sure it will fit where it needs to go.


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## chips&more

Bob Korves said:


> Wattage on the resistors does not matter as long as you go with the same or higher rating and they can physically fit.  The higher voltage rating for a capacitor is a good thing, can handle higher transient peaks.  Again, don't go lower, make sure it will fit where it needs to go.


I would focus more on getting a cap with a higher temp rating.  The ones with the higher temp rating typically last longer . And yes, of course, make sure it has the correct working voltage…Dave.


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## chips&more

NOTE: Electrolytic capacitors are polarity sensitive! They go in the circuit in one direction only!


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## Bob Korves

chips&more said:


> NOTE: Electrolytic capacitors are polarity sensitive! They go in the circuit in one direction only!


They have a strange stripe down one side that has what looks like "O"s along it with "-"s inside the Os.  The dashes are actually minuses, the negative connection side of the capacitor.


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## mksj

Electrolytic capacitors have a finite life span (usually 7-10 years), even if not used. The live span is decreased with both heat and operating them near their maximum voltage ratings. The specification (measured capacitance) on electrolytic capacitors can be very wide, so something like -20 to +50% of their rated uF value. Using the standard multi-meter to check capacitor value is of minimal value, unless the capacitor is completely dead.  Replacing an electrolytic you do not need the exact same uF value, anything close is fine and getting something rated for the same or higher voltage is fine, they should be 105C or higher temperature rated.  Newer capacitors are significantly better than those used in past years, so given the age of the drive you are best replacing them. Most electrolytics are polar as others have indicated, there ia a + and - end, the - is connected to the shell, the plus you can see some insulation between it and the outer shell. There are also non-polar electrolytic capacitorss, that do not have a polarity orientation.  Newer diodes usually work or fail, so if they check OK I would just leave them.

You might consider buying the replacements parts through an online vendor like Mouser Electronics, a wider selection, fresh stock and probably cheaper even with shipping.


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## expressline99

I will certainly buy from that vendor for what I can. Today I took all four of the pots off of the board. I found one that was all over the place while being tested. The cheapest I can find is $25.00 for that one. I have no idea how to cross the part number over to another one that will fit. There are only 4 of the electrolytics so I'll replace all of them. It's pretty easy.  Trolling around on the internet it seems the general consensus is to leave all of the "red" (polyester?) capacitors alone.  

Are the lugs on the circuit board resistors? 

Do I need to test the two transformers on the board? 

I'm going to replace the limit switches on the forward and reverse.


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## mksj

The pots sometimes get dirty and that causes them to be erratic, but it can also get worn out or the wiper tension has gone. There are some electronic spray cleaner lubricants for pots, you could try that first. Only use a cleaner specific for electronics. The pots are pretty standard, so you need the same value, wattage needs to be the same or higher, you need to know if the pot is linear or log, linear will show 1/2 the total resistance at 50%. Standard through hole mounting pots can be purchased on eBay or Mouser at around $10-12. Leave the polyester caps alone, they rarely go. Transformers should either work or not work in this type of application, I would leave them alone. If powering up you have no power, then check the voltages. If you are looking for a specific component, take a picture and indicate any number on the part and we can point you to a source.

Resistors are usually leaded wires, no ferules. Older boards used ferules to through connect or as standoffs. I normally do not pull everything off a board to check values unless there is a problem or something appears burnt. Unless you have a desoldering device  or station, you can damage the traces on the board. I do replace the electrolytics with older equipment. Resistors can vary a bit, they usually do not need to be exact values in this application. Some equipment give voltage checks at different points on a board.


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## expressline99

I tested the speed control pot on the front and it only varies between 605 and 608 ohm.  It's rated at 500 ohm.
I took it apart and it has a wiper that is made up of several tines that are bent at a 90 degree angle. Almost like a claw dragging. Doesn't look that dirty. 

It's a Clarostat made in the usa. Numbers on the back are: CM41655 and 19-8015  with 500 ohms. Shaft diameter of .247 length is .477 past the threads. (lol) Supposed to measure pot shafts to the thousands right?

One thing I didn't mention is I did get contact cleaner from home depot that seems to work great.


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## chips&more

You are very inquisitive! That can be a good thing or a bad thing. I applaud your dive in attitude! But a little caution can save you money. That pot that you just opened up was probably OK. And it was a “sealed” type potentiometer. Radio Shack will not have that replacement.


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## mksj

It is OK to open these types of pots, they are not hermetically sealed or molded. I assume it is a 500 Ohm linear pot, they are often +/-10% unless it is a precision pot. Manufactures often use their own model numbers and often have custom values/specifications built. Depending on the application, you can often parallel or serially add a fixed resistor to adjust the pot value (pad), this is not an issue if it is set to a fixed value as part of the calibration setup as opposed to a panel speed range dial. The pot is fairly common, in harsh environments I do look for sealed pots (often military surplus) or sometimes wire wound, the latter usually work even if contaminate with oil.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clarostat-potentiometer-500-Ohm-model-53C3-500-S-/322365816902
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualkey53C3500
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-ALLEN-BRADLEY-500-OHM-LINEAR-2WATT-AB-POTS-/262751775766


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## expressline99

chips&more said:


> You are very inquisitive! That can be a good thing or a bad thing. I applaud your dive in attitude! But a little caution can save you money. That pot that you just opened up was probably OK. And it was a “sealed” type potentiometer. Radio Shack will not have that replacement.



Thank you that's a wonderful complement. I can get OCD in some odd ways. 
Interestingly enough I took the one off of the circuit board... the one that was going all over the place on the resistance. That one I also carefully pried up the tabs and it was filthy inside. I believe it had gotten soaked in oil like most of the components. I cleaned it up put it back together and viola! That one is back to being nice and balanced between contacts.  As well as adjustable like it's meant to be. So all the pots on the board are functioning and remounted. 

Last night I placed an order through mouser for the bad resistors and 4 replacement caps for the old electrolytics. 

What readings should I get ohm wise on that 500 ohm pot for controlling speed?


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## expressline99

mksj said:


> It is OK to open these types of pots, they are not hermetically sealed or molded. I assume it is a 500 Ohm linear pot, they are often +/-10% unless it is a precision pot. Manufactures often use their own model numbers and often have custom values/specifications built. Depending on the application, you can often parallel or serially add a fixed resistor to adjust the pot value (pad), this is not an issue if it is set to a fixed value as part of the calibration setup as opposed to a panel speed range dial. The pot is fairly common, in harsh environments I do look for sealed pots (often military surplus) or sometimes wire wound, the latter usually work even if contaminate with oil.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clarostat-potentiometer-500-Ohm-model-53C3-500-S-/322365816902
> http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualkey53C3500
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-ALLEN-BRADLEY-500-OHM-LINEAR-2WATT-AB-POTS-/262751775766



I also added to my order last night this one:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=380C1500virtualkey67810000virtualkey785-380C1500

Will that work?


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## chips&more

If you are changing the resistors that I’m thinking about? Then they went bad/smoked because your forward-reverse switches are bad. You will need two new micro switches. Don’t bother trying to clean them, BER, just buy new ones. And the trimers on the board only get turned when you tune the board to the motor, after that, they are torque sealed. And it really doesn’t mean that much in your end result of the whole shebang working.  If you think that was the problem with the feed not working, it was not. And I’m not saying it wasn’t a problem, just not the one that killed your Power Feed.


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## mksj

expressline99 said:


> I also added to my order last night this one:
> http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=380C1500virtualkey67810000virtualkey785-380C1500


Honeywell makes good pot. Yes, that one will work well, a few $ more but they are industrial rated and will last much longer.


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## expressline99

chips&more said:


> If you are changing the resistors that I’m thinking about? Then they went bad/smoked because your forward-reverse switches are bad. You will need two new micro switches. Don’t bother trying to clean them, BER, just buy new ones. And the trimers on the board only get turned when you tune the board to the motor, after that, they are torque sealed. And it really doesn’t mean that much in your end result of the whole shebang working.  If you think that was the problem with the feed not working, it was not. And I’m not saying it wasn’t a problem, just not the one that killed your Power Feed.



Two new switches ordered. If I'm lucky I'll get to do some testing this week once parts get in. 

There were 4 resistors that were waaay out of tolerance.  The bad ones were rated at 18k, 27k, 300k and 2.7 million. 

I hope you guys are going to help me rebuild the top end. It's quite noisy.


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## chips&more

Nope, it was not any of those resistors. Good Job.


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## expressline99

chips&more said:


> Nope, it was not any of those resistors. Good Job.


Well the bad ones are coming out. I went through every single one on the board by de-soldering one leg on each. Making sure that I put a sharpie "dot" next to 
each as I tested them.  The resistors that were bad I bent the leg over that I had de-soldered which should make quick work when I get the replacements. 

This board, control panel, and switch setup should be in fantastic shape once I'm done learning!


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## chips&more

Most of the components on that board are not value sensitive. What I mean is, if the reading you get is out of tolerance to the posted value on the component, then chances are it’s OK. You should be looking for something that is dead, no longer any good and not just out of tolerance. I would not de-solder all those resistors and other things. All those 1/2 watt resistors are the last thing on the planet that would fail on that board. What is more likely to happen is damage to the copper circuit paths from all the de-soldering. Good Luck…Dave


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## expressline99

Hey Dave, I was lucky and very careful about de-soldering I tinned and cleaned the tip of the iron every time. So no excessive heat or lingering if it didn't flow right away. I won't  de-solder almost everything next time. But it's hard for me to not get excited and jump right in. 

I came home today to find all my electronic goodies! It's like second Christmas!  The only thing I'm disappointed in is the pot. The shaft is way too long. I'll have to dremel it to length.  So I've got my new caps, switches, pot, and resistors. Hopefully I can do some dry runs...sans gearbox this weekend or perhaps tomorrow.  I am thoroughly jazzed about all the parts.


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## expressline99

OK, on the motor direction switches are they adjusted to their "neutral" position? This being when the direction control handle is in neutral position.

I assume this is correct? So that the any contacts marked "NC" are closed and the "NO"s are open?


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## expressline99

Does anyone have an expanded diagram of the boehm 4640. Apparently I've got "spring" type disk and flat washer that go in some position on the non-output end of the shaft (I think) under the spring clip. I've forgotten how they go back in.

Yesterday after putting this back together and hand spinning the motor it would go in one direction but spinning backwards would cause it to catch and drag on something. I assume it was an electrical line. Or perhaps the missing spring washer. So I'm going to put the spring washer in between the two flat washers I think it fits between and put it back in. If It binds up again I'm at a loss since the output side bearing was replace.  It's possible that I'm not getting the armature lined up on the bearings properly?   Guess I will try again tomorrow. 
Paul


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## Rick_B

Hey Paul - don't know if you got by the preload washer issues or not - see below for what mine looked like on the output end





Maybe you can help with an issue I am having regarding orientation of the clutch shaft - see next post

Thanks
Rick


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## Rick_B

So I've been pretty distracted with a variety of things going on and this is the first chance I have had to get back to this power feed.  I've got the majority of the main housing re-assembled but have a question on the orientation of the clutch shaft.  The clutch shaft has a woodruff key slot for the handle that I believe faces the back of the unit (assuming the access door with the sight glass is the front).  This results in the drive pin hole on the clutch shaft facing the front to back.  Also - at the other end - the narrow ridge faces front (this is the switch actuation end of the clutch shaft).  I believe the cam detent faces the front and the large "V" that rides on the clutch arm detent roller faces right.  Here's a few pictures of how I think the clutch shaft is assembled.  I'm hoping someone can confirm this.

Top (handle) end




Bottom (switch actuation end)




Thanks
Rick


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## expressline99

Hey Rick, That's exactly how mine is assembled.

I've got mine assembled up to being able to test the wiring. The motor is detached from the gear housing. However, the Motor is still acting up and blowing fuses. I did get the motor to spin up but once moving the speed control wouldn't slow it down or change it's speed. Then blown fuse.  I'm getting close to sending this in to someone that can handle the board and trouble shoot it and the wiring. I can't see that I'm any closer than I was when I started. 


Paul


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## Rick_B

Thanks for the verification Paul - wish I could help you with the electrical side but you've already exceeded my knowledge and skills in that area.

Mine was working fine before I started playing with it - hopefully I won't introduce any issues 

Rick


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## expressline99

I appreciate the good thoughts Rick.  I'm sure yours will be good to go. 

So should I be figuring out how to measure the output of power from the board to the motor while turning the new pot I put on there? 

Anyone have any idea what to test next?   Before I throw $500 more at fixing this part. Probably without any direction I will start throwing money at it. Because I'm getting worn out on what should be something simple and my patience can only go so far. >insert grumbling here then ignore it< 

To recap current problem: I turn the on switch on. Pilot light turns on. I switch into gear and turn the pot. The motor doesn't start moving until I'm up to probably 25% 30% of speed. Once it starts turning the pot has no effect on speed and will not stop the motor from turning even if turned all the way down. If you turn the pot all the way up or somewhere near full speed it blows the fuse.  Note the motor is not mounted to the gear box so there is no load on it. 

Thanks, Paul


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## expressline99

OK so quick question as I'm still slowly messing with this. Whenever I get a few minutes. I've got a guide for things to test on the motor. Can someone clarify on testing the resistance on several points of the armature. If I understand it correctly it's tested by probing each brush while mounted..(cover screw taken out of course)... Looking for 1 ohm across. Then turning it to a different spot and doing the same. Will this accomplish the 180 degree offset between contacts on the armature? Or should I just take the thing apart for this testing? 

I checked the field winding's and they aren't shorted to the casing so I assume the insulator/shellac/varnish(whatever that coating is) is still OK. Also I get close to the 500 ohm reading across the winding's (lead to lead). This with everything else pulled from the center casing. 

Everything I see says motor is OK...

Still grinding at this until it's further exhausted.

Paul


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## expressline99

This is the last time I put this motor together....I'm not going to do it again. Today.  I've spent time messing with the switches and I've determined that they are adjusted fine. But I was getting odd readings with the wiring hooked up. So it might be wiring. I think the previous owner did some adjustment wiring.... So I will be rewiring next. I hope that is the end of it. 
Paul


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## expressline99

OK so after making sure all wires are properly attached to the switches. I'm getting proper ohm readings at idle position and if the wires are disconnected from the switch terminals. If either plunger is depressed the opposite switch has a reading of 552 ohms +/-  all direction I read state it should either be Zero or infinite depending on position and never anything else. Does this mean my field windings are trash? See the picture. The motor field is connected to the Yellow and white wires to the left. (Also the board is detached while checking resistance.)


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## expressline99

Could it possibly be a transistor? I put it all together today to test again. Same result. Nothing happens until I start turning the speed control up. Then it runs up I believe to full speed..if you turn the pot back down to zero nothing changes it keeps running. Then blows the fuse after a short while. The 500 +/- ohm resistance above must just be coming from the field windings from all simple deduction.


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## expressline99

Well I gave up and mailed the board into a dealer. I was getting no where on my own. >Insert personal failure and let down here<


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## expressline99

LOL so the board is fine. I either fixed it or it was already OK... So I mailed in the motor today. Gotta love it. If they tell me the motor is fine...then there isn't much left but the wiring above or the on/off switch or the fast travel button. I almost hope it's the motor just so I can move on to the next part of the rebuild.


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## expressline99

So I found out today that the armature is shorted out. So I get to buy a new one...an extra $300 plus install. I'm letting them install it just so it comes back to me working and adjusted to the board. I thought I tested it out properly but I guess I didn't understand it as well as I thought I did.


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## expressline99

I didn't realize I started this in February. Anyhow, I did get the motor and the board back months ago. What I'm looking at now is why I can't get the motor to respond aside from occasionally when I go back to neutral position. I've looked at the micro switches until I'm seeing stars! I've tried loosening them and just holding one closed while the other is open and I get nothing still (except occasionally when I release a switch I get a motor bump). Not burning fuses anymore...motor was rebuilt so that's not it and board was tested by them as well.  Irritating at best!

Paul


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## Bob Korves

Test the micro switches while you operate them with the plungers.  The switch plungers (not so much the micro switches themselves) get full of crud and sticky, and don't return to the full closed position.  No switch contact, no motor run.


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## dlane

Where did you send it for repair ?. If it went to Fresno Ca. ******machine repair ,authorized servo dealer west cost, beware they tried not refunding me $265. For a new servo PF, after trying a off shore powerfeed that didn't work. They'll try to get over on you


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## expressline99

Bob Korves said:


> Test the micro switches while you operate them with the plungers.  The switch plungers (not so much the micro switches themselves) get full of crud and sticky, and don't return to the full closed position.  No switch contact, no motor run.



I pulled them out and apparently I had changed them so they are new. Both close and open the NC and NO circuits as they are supposed to. 


dlane said:


> Where did you send it for repair ?. If it went to Fresno Ca. ******machine repair ,authorized servo dealer west cost, beware they tried not refunding me $265. For a new servo PF, after trying a off shore powerfeed that didn't work. They'll try to get over on you



I sent to icai in Florida.  I only sent them the board...which they said tested fine. Then I sent the motor and they repaired it...that set of repairs and shipping was over $500 
The gear housing I did not send in. So now its probably my fault somewhere. 

Paul


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## Silverbullet

Just a shot in the dark. Are you using the right line voltage??? 110 - 220 single phase or three phase. Shorted wire who knows , sounds weird .


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## expressline99

Silverbullet said:


> Just a shot in the dark. Are you using the right line voltage??? 110 - 220 single phase or three phase. Shorted wire who knows , sounds weird .



Yeah it's 110 single. Diagram even shows. The motor is a DC of course. I'm pretty close to sending the entire thing in again except this time with gearbox and all.

Paul


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## expressline99

OK I got resolution. After breaking a lot of wires and re-soldering new connections. I determined that the new speed control pot had two wires reversed...oddly enough It apparently doesn't "twist" in the same direction. Doesn't make much sense that it wouldn't work the way it was but.. It works now except the knob runs reverse of what the feed IPM should be....so lowest position on the panel is the fastest feed rate.  Anyway, it will run. 

The next problem I encountered was not getting the gear to engage in reverse. There is a cam lever with a roller on it that pushes the gear in and out of engagement. It's not immediately obvious that the cam on the end is adjustable. However, it's mounted in a slot. Loosening the nut on the bottom allows for this to be moved in and out as needed. It took me several tries to align it correctly.   Also having the socket head screw that mounts the "cam arm" not completely tight helps with the amount of movement needed to engage the gears.  

Thank goodness I'll be able to finally mount this power feed. 

Paul


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## chips&more

A potentiometer (pot) typically has three connections. One is the wiper and the other two are each end of the total resistance of the pots spec. If you have a direction problem with the pot in operation. Try reversing the two resistance connections. These are typically the two outside connections. The one in the middle of all three is probably the wiper. If not sure, easy enough to find out with an ohm meter…Dave


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## expressline99

chips&more said:


> A potentiometer (pot) typically has three connections. One is the wiper and the other two are each end of the total resistance of the pots spec. If you have a direction problem with the pot in operation. Try reversing the two resistance connections. These are typically the two outside connections. The one in the middle of all three is probably the wiper. If not sure, easy enough to find out with an ohm meter…Dave



I can try again. But when the outer two were reversed before it wasn't moving at all. Except for the occasional bump when turning to neutral on the switches.

Paul


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## chips&more

expressline99 said:


> I can try again. But when the outer two were reversed before it wasn't moving at all. Except for the occasional bump when turning to neutral on the switches.
> 
> Paul


Paul, take the pot out of the circuit and check with an ohm meter, make sure it’s good. Even if new, still check it...Dave


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## chips&more

expressline99 said:


> I can try again. But when the outer two were reversed before it wasn't moving at all. Except for the occasional bump when turning to neutral on the switches.
> 
> Paul


That sounds like a bad pot?


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## Bob Korves

chips&more said:


> That sounds like a bad pot?


Or something else in the circuit is not correct...


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## chips&more

Also! Do not let both micro-switches turn on at the same time! Bad things will happen! I realize that this kinda event is unlikely. But, a Murphy can happen if not careful. This can even happen with dirty/oily switches that do not make a mechanical contact but rather a resistive contact from dirty switches...Dave


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## expressline99

chips&more said:


> That sounds like a bad pot?



I'll go pull it maybe got messed up somehow. I believe it was a honeywell so it's not a cheap one.

Paul


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## expressline99

chips&more said:


> Also! Do not let both micro-switches turn on at the same time! Bad things will happen! I realize that this kinda event is unlikely. But, a Murphy can happen if not careful. This can even happen with dirty/oily switches that do not make a mechanical contact but rather a resistive contact from dirty switches...Dave



Brand new micro-switches and I tested them with a multi-meter to insure they were set just right without power prior to connecting. So those are in good shape and wiring is right where it should be. 

Paul


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## expressline99

Bob Korves said:


> Or something else in the circuit is not correct...



Supposedly when I sent it in it test just fine on their board tester?

Paul


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## expressline99

Tested pot it's fine. Now it's back to doing nothing no matter how I wire the pot.  It did start once when  I turned it on wired the original way...but now nothing. The light is on of course because the fuse isn't blowing.  Totally bummed now. 

Paul


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## Bob Korves

chips&more said:


> Also! Do not let both micro-switches turn on at the same time! Bad things will happen! I realize that this kinda event is unlikely. But, a Murphy can happen if not careful. This can even happen with dirty/oily switches that do not make a mechanical contact but rather a resistive contact from dirty switches...Dave


It is easy to happen if one of the switches is wired backwards...


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## Bob Korves

expressline99 said:


> Supposedly when I sent it in it test just fine on their board tester?
> 
> Paul


You only sent in the board.  Other parts of the circuit can be at fault.


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## expressline99

Bob Korves said:


> You only sent in the board.  Other parts of the circuit can be at fault.



What's horrible is that there just isn't much too it after the board. I've got new micro-switches. Which I've taken out and tested to insure they work properly. Then set the switches to not over run each other on the direction handle...neutral and so forth. The fuse holder is new. The light is new. The pot is new. I thoroughly tested the pot today. It works fine. I even tried testing it in the balanced state. About 250 ohms each side. Very Even.   The motor is basically brand new inside except for the field windings. But that was done professionally. I don't think that would be wrong.   Power switch works or the light wouldn't work. Wiring wise it's all exactly as diagrams show me. Down to the pin on the harness everything connects to.    

Tomorrow I'll go over every wire in the harness and check for faults there. Grounded and/or no continuity from ends to pins.  Beyond that I'm back to it being an expensive mystery.  If I can't find it I'll have to call Wayne at icai and ask him what he thinks. Maybe it will be obvious to him.

Know anyone that is great at electronics? 

Paul


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## Bob Korves

expressline99 said:


> What's horrible is that there just isn't much too it after the board. I've got new micro-switches. Which I've taken out and tested to insure they work properly. Then set the switches to not over run each other on the direction handle...neutral and so forth. The fuse holder is new. The light is new. The pot is new. I thoroughly tested the pot today. It works fine. I even tried testing it in the balanced state. About 250 ohms each side. Very Even.   The motor is basically brand new inside except for the field windings. But that was done professionally. I don't think that would be wrong.   Power switch works or the light wouldn't work. Wiring wise it's all exactly as diagrams show me. Down to the pin on the harness everything connects to.
> 
> Tomorrow I'll go over every wire in the harness and check for faults there. Grounded and/or no continuity from ends to pins.  Beyond that I'm back to it being an expensive mystery.  If I can't find it I'll have to call Wayne at icai and ask him what he thinks. Maybe it will be obvious to him.
> 
> Know anyone that is great at electronics?
> 
> Paul


Paul, my thought in my post was not so much about the components, but more about the wiring.  Really, it is the composite of all the components and wiring together as a system.  I am certainly no electrical or electronic genius.  When I tear down electrical wiring, I make a schematic of how it was, and what color wires went to which terminals.  I label the connections if they are not already.  That way I can put it back the way it was before I started on it.  Yes, there may be mistakes, even multiple ones, from the previous owner(s) or builder.  The next step is to understand the wiring, what does each wire do, how is it activated or deactivated, and how does everything work together to do what it is supposed to do.  Lots of people get overwhelmed by a bunch of different colored wires with no big signs for what each one is and does, seeing the total with glazed eyes.  My rule on troubleshooting anything is that I must first understand clearly in my mind exactly how it all works.  After that it is a matter of testing things to make sure they are doing what they are supposed to do, and fixing the things that are not correct.  We cannot understand why it does not work until we understand how it should work.


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## chips&more

expressline99 said:


> What's horrible is that there just isn't much too it after the board. I've got new micro-switches. Which I've taken out and tested to insure they work properly. Then set the switches to not over run each other on the direction handle...neutral and so forth. The fuse holder is new. The light is new. The pot is new. I thoroughly tested the pot today. It works fine. I even tried testing it in the balanced state. About 250 ohms each side. Very Even.   The motor is basically brand new inside except for the field windings. But that was done professionally. I don't think that would be wrong.   Power switch works or the light wouldn't work. Wiring wise it's all exactly as diagrams show me. Down to the pin on the harness everything connects to.
> 
> Tomorrow I'll go over every wire in the harness and check for faults there. Grounded and/or no continuity from ends to pins.  Beyond that I'm back to it being an expensive mystery.  If I can't find it I'll have to call Wayne at icai and ask him what he thinks. Maybe it will be obvious to him.
> 
> Know anyone that is great at electronics?
> 
> Paul


Are you saying you have a linear pot? My memory tells me that pot should have a logarithmic taper resistance. Was there anything wrong with the original pot? I would use the original pot if nothing is wrong with it and it is just used, a used pot is fine by me. The original pot was also sealed. That kind of pot with mentioned characteristics, design and made in the USA is kinda hard to find today and $. Use the original whenever possible.


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## mksj

In motor speed applications the pots are commonly linear, it is just acting as a voltage divider. The pot is specified as a 2W 500 ohm, Honeywell make decent pots. It could be that the leads to the pot are wired incorrectly. You should be able to check voltages to the motor (90VDC) and the field coil (100VDC), you could do this with the motor disconnected. If you are not getting voltage, then you need work backwards, check the voltage at the control board terminals and then to/after direction switches. 

http://www.atechfabrication.com/information/Bridgeport_Feed_Controller.htm


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## expressline99

chips&more said:


> Are you saying you have a linear pot? My memory tells me that pot should have a logarithmic taper resistance. Was there anything wrong with the original pot? I would use the original pot if nothing is wrong with it and it is just used, a used pot if fine by me. The original pot was also sealed. That kind of pot with mentioned characteristics, design and made in the USA is kinda hard to find today and $. Use the original whenever possible.



The one that was original one got opened/cleaned/destroyed months back. Little did I know. The pot I see online for this is $41.00 so maybe that's the difference? It needs a taper resistance pot? This one for sure is linear I just checked. It's a honeywell 380c1500. 



Bob Korves said:


> Paul, my thought in my post was not so much about the components, but more about the wiring.  Really, it is the composite of all the components and wiring together as a system.  I am certainly no electrical or electronic genius.  When I tear down electrical wiring, I make a schematic of how it was, and what color wires went to which terminals.  I label the connections if they are not already.  That way I can put it back the way it was before I started on it.  Yes, there may be mistakes, even multiple ones, from the previous owner(s) or builder.  The next step is to understand the wiring, what does each wire do, how is it activated or deactivated, and how does everything work together to do what it is supposed to do.  Lots of people get overwhelmed by a bunch of different colored wires with no big signs for what each one is and does, seeing the total with glazed eyes.  My rule on troubleshooting anything is that I must first understand clearly in my mind exactly how it all works.  After that it is a matter of testing things to make sure they are doing what they are supposed to do, and fixing the things that are not correct.  We cannot understand why it does not work until we understand how it should work.



Oh I'm not overwhelmed by the wires. Back when I worked for a sub contracting company for the phone company. I got sent once to find 2 wires in a building that had 2 million coming into it. This was in San Jose. I think the building was #1 1st street? Or something like that. Anyway, the building used to be the phone company way back. So figure a wall 6ft high 50ft long full of 66 blocks. Fed by 1200 wire cable bundles. I was so overwhelmed by that I sat down on the floor and just stared but I found the wires! That's been ages ago.

If it's a log pot and this one is a linear that's got to be it!

Paul


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## expressline99

mksj said:


> In motor speed applications the pots are commonly linear, it is just acting as a voltage divider. The pot is specified as a 2W 500 ohm, Honeywell make decent pots. It could be that the leads to the pot are wired incorrectly. You should be able to check voltages to the motor (90VDC) and the field coil (100VDC), you could do this with the motor disconnected. If you are not getting voltage, then you need work backwards, check the voltage at the control board terminals and then to/after direction switches.
> 
> http://www.atechfabrication.com/information/Bridgeport_Feed_Controller.htm



That's the diagram I've printed and have been using. I'll have to spend some time checking voltages later today. I will do this. 
Paul


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## chips&more

I will trust my memory and still say the pot is logarithmic. Find the actual 6F schematic and or original pot to find out. That schematic you just referenced is too generic. Yes, I know it is a Bridgeport schematic but not in the detail you want. You want the actual schematic of the 6F circuit and its parts list.


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## chips&more

My memory was correct. Please look at the pic below of the Bridgeport 6F parts list and #11632618.


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## expressline99

chips&more said:


> My memory was correct. Please look at the pic below of the Bridgeport 6F parts list and #11632618.
> View attachment 242696



OK I ordered one two day air delivery. I hope this ends it. 

Paul


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## Jeffers

I went down this rabbit hole for a while and got very frustrated. Circuit design has been very much improved now. I replaced components and fiddled and tweaked like you before doing the following as done by Atech:
http://www.atechfabrication.com/information/Bridgeport_Feed_Controller.htm

This is an excellent fix and is working flawlessly, I bought a miniatik board on eBay second hand and sold my Bridgeport board for parts at the same price, new micro switches off eBay and some relays too, the repair only cost me about $40.
It works great!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Jeffers

I went down this rabbit hole! Do this instead:
http://www.atechfabrication.com/information/Bridgeport_Feed_Controller.htm


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## chips&more

I personally see no need to do that kind of mod on the 6F. The 8F has some factory changes. I guess the best was the lever direction mechanism change on the 8F. Anyway, if a few problems are taken care of correctly, both 6F & 8F are the best feed IMHO…Dave


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## mksj

Checked the manual for the 6F, you are correct that the speed pot is specified as a log taper as opposed to linear, although I did read in another thread that there where some variations in the power feeds as to some using linear vs. log taper. The idea with a log is that you have better low speed control with a log, as opposed to linear. You should be able to determine the type used by the range on the speed scale (log would have closer spacing at the higher end).  A 500 ohm log/audio taper pot in a sealed version is very uncommon. Another thing to consider is that often manufactures specify custom tapers for their pots, so I do a lot of audio tube tester repairs and many of the pots have unusual tapers/steps making them unobtainable. 
They do sell replacements for$23. In either case, whether linear or log, it should make no difference as to the drive working, just the speed at a given dial position.
http://www.icai-online.com/6f-b-c-front-panel-housing/
http://www.ebay.com/itm/500-OHM-LOG...TENTIOMETER-LONG-SHAFT-53C1-NOS-/232472291144


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## expressline99

mksj said:


> Checked the manual for the 6F, you are correct that the speed pot is specified as a log taper as opposed to linear, although I did read in another thread that there where some variations in the power feeds as to some using linear vs. log taper. The idea with a log is that you have better low speed control with a log, as opposed to linear. You should be able to determine the type used by the range on the speed scale (log would have closer spacing at the higher end).  A 500 ohm log/audio taper pot in a sealed version is very uncommon. Another thing to consider is that often manufactures specify custom tapers for their pots, so I do a lot of audio tube tester repairs and many of the pots have unusual tapers/steps making them unobtainable.
> They do sell replacements for$23. In either case, whether linear or log, it should make no difference as to the drive working, just the speed at a given dial position.
> http://www.icai-online.com/6f-b-c-front-panel-housing/
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/500-OHM-LOG...TENTIOMETER-LONG-SHAFT-53C1-NOS-/232472291144



I bought the icai replacement. Will be here tomorrow. So if that isn't going to fix anything I'm still in the dark.   

Seriously going to crate the entire motor/gearbox/controller as one unit and send it back in. 

Paul


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## expressline99

Well that was a strike. I think I need another diagram. I'm still getting that bump from the motor just when go to return it to neutral position...just before it gets to it's neutral position...and not every time. As well, just from Left to center position... Perhaps that generic drawing I was using has the wrong wiring layout? Not sure how to verify it. Is there a different diagram in that book with the part numbers...

(edit) I found that manual copy and am trying to search it...

Paul


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## expressline99

mksj said:


> In motor speed applications the pots are commonly linear, it is just acting as a voltage divider. The pot is specified as a 2W 500 ohm, Honeywell make decent pots. It could be that the leads to the pot are wired incorrectly. You should be able to check voltages to the motor (90VDC) and the field coil (100VDC), you could do this with the motor disconnected. If you are not getting voltage, then you need work backwards, check the voltage at the control board terminals and then to/after direction switches.
> 
> http://www.atechfabrication.com/information/Bridgeport_Feed_Controller.htm



Ok I tested these with the motor disconnected. I assume to check I was supposed to go from each feed wire to ground. If this is right then my voltages are wrong.
I got in the "neutral" switch position 57 volts for the field wires. 69-67 volts on each of the motor armature wires.  In the engaged position...going either right or left I got 80 volts on the field wires and still 67 to 72 volts on the motor armature wires. 

Paul


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## mksj

Motor voltage would be measured between the poles of the motor,  1 (203) and 2 (204) for the armature, and 8 (210) and 3 (205) for the field coil. Make sure the speed pot is maximum, I believe the the voltage to the motor armature should decrease when decreasing the pot.


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## expressline99

mksj said:


> Motor voltage would be measured between the poles of the motor,  1 (203) and 2 (204) for the armature, and 8 (210) and 3 (205) for the field coil. Make sure the speed pot is maximum, I believe the the voltage to the motor armature should decrease when decreasing the pot.



OK on 203 to 204 in neutral I get a wild moving -90 to -170 mV. On 210 and 205 I get Zero at neutral and 170 volts engaged.

Edit: Also for wiring I'm referring to the BP_Mill_Series1_manual.pdf pages 124 and 125

Paul


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## mksj

So it sounds like you are getting voltage, the fluctuation in voltage on 203-204 is because it is rectified but not filtered DC. I would expect the armature voltage to decrease when the speed knob is decreased. So if you are getting voltage to the motor, the drive should be working.  I have not worked on these type of drives so I am making some assumptions on how I believe they operate. Maybe if you can give some specifics as to what the drive is actually doing and what is not working.


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## expressline99

mksj said:


> So it sounds like you are getting voltage, the fluctuation in voltage on 203-204 is because it is rectified but not filtered DC. I would expect the armature voltage to decrease when the speed knob is decreased. So if you are getting voltage to the motor, the drive should be working.  I have not worked on these type of drives so I am making some assumptions on how I believe they operate. Maybe if you can give some specifics as to what the drive is actually doing and what is not working.



All I can get out of it is a little bit of motor movement when switching back from "Left" position to neutral position. That's about all I can explain? The motor was repaired and had the commutator replaced by icai and they tested the board.  Maybe it's the wire harness from the motor. Could be crossed inside I can't tell because the colors are different in the cord. But they are grouped and each set of two has at least one matching color. One would think that they connected the white wire to the white wire etc. The the default remaining wire of the group should go to the other connection...  

These are the wires from the motor.


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## mksj

I am a bit of a loss as to further suggestions without having hands on evaluation. It could also be a polarity issue of the wiring. If I suspect a wiring issue, I will sometimes make up a new wiring harness, but having not seen one of these I am a bit in the dark.  My suggestion at this point would be to call Icai and they should be able to give you better directions as to testing/evaluations.


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## chips&more

The motor should have 5 wires coming out of it. One for ground, two for field and two for armature. Take out a brush. With your ohm meter find the two wires with resistance. Sorry, can’t remember what it should be? ~400? Mark the wires "field". Put the brush back in. Then two more wires will have resistance "arm". ~7? The last wire should be ground to the motor case. ~0. The other wires should have infinity to case ground. Again sorry, I cannot recall the typical found resistance. But hopefully you get the idea of what kinda resistance range you want to look for…Good Luck, Dave.


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## expressline99

chips&more said:


> The motor should have 5 wires coming out of it. One for ground, two for field and two for armature. Take out a brush. With your ohm meter find the two wires with resistance. Sorry, can’t remember what it should be? ~400? Mark the wires "field". Put the brush back in. Then two more wires will have resistance "arm". ~7? The last wire should be ground to the motor case. ~0. The other wires should have infinity to case ground. Again sorry, I cannot recall the typical found resistance. But hopefully you get the idea of what kinda resistance range you want to look for…Good Luck, Dave.



OK I did this just now. The field wires are reading 583. The to arm wires are reading 1.7 to 2 ohms.  There isn't a 5th wire. I assume its just grounded inside the motor. The entire enclosure is grounded by the incoming power ground to a screw.  

Paul


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## expressline99

So the resolution to this was to replace the board with an upgrade kit. Specifically this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/REPLACEMENT...FOR-6F-POWER-FEED-BRIDGEPORT-NEW/292135009361

The switches were fine. I replaced the pot with the one that came in the kit (so now I have a log pot and a standard pot as extras).  All of my wiring was fine. The motor was fine. But I had to mill the hole for the bolt holding the lever cam. This would be the one that is at the end by the forward/reverse switch lever. By making the bolt hole a oblong slot I was able to adjust the cam properly allowing the engagement of the gears. For whatever reason it wouldn't do it like it was supposed to. I also installed a stiffer spring to make a more positive gear mesh.  It seems to work well. The speed control as well as forward/reverse and fast traverse. All that's left is to install the assembly on the mill. There are a few pictures. I'll post them later.

Paul


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## expressline99

Sooo I ran the table too far and stripped the bevel gear. Add another $200.00 to my repair. I ordered and have received the gear. So I get to tear it all down again. Oh the Joy.   

What I'm getting at here is that I need to make something that will trip the lever at end of travel.  This unit doesn't have the remote handle or rod assembly. Just the short handle for forward and reverse.... I don't want to do this again.

Paul


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## Jeffers

expressline99 said:


> Sooo I ran the table too far and stripped the bevel gear. Add another $200.00 to my repair. I ordered and have received the gear. So I get to tear it all down again. Oh the Joy.
> 
> What I'm getting at here is that I need to make something that will trip the lever at end of travel.  This unit doesn't have the remote handle or rod assembly. Just the short handle for forward and reverse.... I don't want to do this again.
> 
> Paul


Paul, that’s too bad, I started with 3A fuses in mine until I sorted out the issues, blew about 5 fuses, it would be a good idea to have a low amp resettable breaker that tripped instead of crashing a gear. I have a stop control rod I am most likely not going to use if you are interested. Just pay for shipping and whatever you think it is worth or send me a piece of tooling you don’t want in exchange. If you need a picture of it let me know, might be easier/ cheaper to make your own though.
Jon


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## expressline99

Jeffers said:


> Paul, that’s too bad, I started with 3A fuses in mine until I sorted out the issues, blew about 5 fuses, it would be a good idea to have a low amp resettable breaker that tripped instead of crashing a gear. I have a stop control rod I am most likely not going to use if you are interested. Just pay for shipping and whatever you think it is worth or send me a piece of tooling you don’t want in exchange. If you need a picture of it let me know, might be easier/ cheaper to make your own though.
> Jon



Good idea on the re-settable breaker. I might have to do that. Let me think about the rod assembly. I might just do end of travel switches to kill the power on the power feed motor.  As usual I'm probably going to make it more complicated than needed.

Paul


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## markba633csi

Express: I feel your pain as I have been reading this thread- in the future (and for others in this same boat) if you need electrical/electronic help
please try posting in the electrical section of the site first;  Like me there are several retired electronics engineers on the forum who would be happy to help, and you may get a faster response posting there since I tend to check that section much more frequently than the machine-specific forums.
Ciao,
Mark S.


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