# Making A Silk Purse, Out Of  A Sows Ear



## Waterlooboy2hp (May 19, 2015)

About 4, or 5 weeks ago, I bought one of the Harbor Freight, 6" chop saws. In theory, it would be over kill for the two jobs, that I had in mind for it.  I got a 5 3/8" Carbide tipped saw blade, that was made to cut soft metals, like the 5/8" Aluminum hex stock I needed to cut.



First thing I noticed, was that the vise jaws flexed and rose up, when tightened. Also, the motor and blade assembly would wiggle from side to side, on its pivot points.  I made a few cuts anyway and found out that the blade was not 90 degrees vertical to the base.  I could not return the saw to the store, because I had already drilled a hole in the side of the base, for an adjustable stop.

Ok, the option to return the saw was out. Let me take a look at those pivot bushings. They did not look so bad, but the holes in the base tabs for them to ride in, had a problem. One hole was higher up than the other. It caused the saw assembly to lean to one side.

First thought I had, was to just make new bushings and off-set the center hole in them to the maximum I could get. The cam action, would allow me adjust each side of the pivot shaft up, or down. The max adjustment was not quite enough. Chalk that one up to experience.

Ok, now it is time to make a whole new base, with my specs and solve all the problems, at the same time. This is what the original pressed sheet metal base looks like.




I looked around in my scrap iron pile and found a cast iron piece of the main frame from an old Acme reciprocating cut off saw, that I scrapped some years ago. (I had used the cast iron legs off it, to replace the sheet metal ones on my 1996 AMC 4x6 horizontal band saw).

This is what I came up with, after more. or less copying the basic cut-outs and holes, into the new base.





The stationary vise jaw is made from a right angle piece, that I cut off the base casting. The original thin jaw is fastened to it, in order to give me the scale , with the angle readings. The removable brass pin in the lower Rt. corner, sets the jaw back exactly 90 degrees to the blade.

The original front sliding jaw, just has a piece of 1/2" steel bar fastened to it, as you can see in the above photos. You can also see the 2 rails I added to make up for the step in the casting. They only come into play, when cutting a 45 degree angle, where the jaw has to be slid way back.




I made removable pillow type blocks, to hold 1/2" wide Brass pivot bushings, where the motor assemble hooks to the base. Here is a bottom view and one from the top. I also pinned the plastic housing, to the pivot axle. You can see where I shimmed the block on the left, with a .012 shim, to square the blade up to the base.





I made my adjustable stop, so that I can keep the screw finger tight for the part length. I can then back the screw out, prior to making a cut, so the part does not jam between the stop and blade. Then just turn the screw in against the jam nuts to set the length of the next piece. 





As there is no quick way to add rubber feet, to the new base, I figured, why not just bolt the old base to the new cast iron one. So I did.  -----John


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## Franko (May 19, 2015)

Great project, John. A small saw like that can be a very handy tool. I got a very similar saw at Northern Tools. It works well as it came. It came with a composite blade. It's quick and easy to pull out for cutting small rod and bar stock.


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## brav65 (May 19, 2015)

That looks great. All you have to do now is replace the motor, motor housing, arbor, power cord, trigger switch... and she will be perfect (tongue in cheek)!


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## kvt (May 19, 2015)

Looks great,   you even found a use for the old base,  at least the rubber feet on it were good for something rather the rest of it was or not.


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## Waterlooboy2hp (May 19, 2015)

That looks great. All you have to do now is replace the motor, motor housing, arbor, power cord, trigger switch... and she will be perfect (tongue in cheek)!

==============================
Guess I was just asking for that one, being it is from Harbor Freight.
The profit I make from cutting 5 pieces, will pay for the cost of the saw. I have already made 30 and that was before I redesigned things. It is pretty much a throw away saw, if the motor gives out.  I can just buy a new one and swap it onto my base.

I have been using an 18v HF drill for 10 years. When they stopped making the batteries for it, I developed an adaptor to be able to used the new style battery case on the old style drill, instead of having to rebuild the old type battery.

Here is a photo of both the old (NLA) and newer design. --- John




This is the newer battery, with my adaptor. The newer battery releases from the adaptor, the same way it would from a newer drill. ----- John


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## brino (May 19, 2015)

Hey John,

Good work.
Two proofs in one thread that you have the knack for design (or re-design ); first the chop saw, then the battery packs.
Thanks for sharing.

-brino


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## Ulma Doctor (May 19, 2015)

Amazing Work on the Saw!!!!
Excellent use of resources

You Da Man, Waterlooboy!!!


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## kvt (May 20, 2015)

See that is the diff,  the old drill,  10 years,  the new chop saw,  10 Min,   profit they made from it  old maybe 10 cents,   new 90 percent.    Well maybe not quite those numbers but still,  old was provide a good product cheap,   new provide the cheapest product you can,  get by with and sell if for the most profit you can.  I know,  but that is the way it seems it is going.   By the way,  Love your adapter for the battery by the way.


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## Old Iron (May 23, 2015)

Nice work on the saw I got one of those about 6 years ago and I haven't had any trouble with it yet. As you say the vise lifts the work up but for what I got it for it ready doesn't matter. I also have one of the 4 1/2 grinders I've had for over 10 years and its been running with one of the brush caps missing for at least 5 of those years. Juess I just got louky.

Paul


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