# LMS Mill



## larry5061 (Mar 10, 2013)

Well I ordered my LMS mill Friday morning should see it end of next week,  purchased the 3960 solid column with the tooling package.
Any recommendations for set up would be appreciated.  http://lmscnc.com/4722
Thanks in advance


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## Pitchfire (Mar 11, 2013)

Nothing to add on set-up, but congratulations. Should be a great mill.


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## Ruben (Mar 12, 2013)

Congratulations!  That's a fine piece of equipment.  I got one just like a week or so ago, I'm pretty impressed with its power and quietness.

I got the optional speed display with mine, held on with three magnets.  I was really pushing the machine, side milling some cast iron with a 3/4" bit, which caused some pretty heavy vibration, and the speed display slipped, looked like it was soon to fall off.  The metal that the hold magnets grip isn't secured very well, but a couple of pieces of Industrial duty double sided tape from Home Depot fixed that issue!

I also got the power feed kit, which works well, but the cords drag pretty bad on the bench top (both cords come out the bottom of the control/motor assembly).  I went to Home Depot and purchased a 2' x 4' piece of 3/4 MDF (near the plywood section), had them cut off a 12" x 24" piece off one end, and mounted the mill on that.  If I had it to do again, I'd put two pieces under the mill (I think my bench is a bit light, only 1 1/2" thick without the MDF), but this works OK for now.

So far, the mill has been flawless, and I've worked it pretty hard in the short time I've had it.  So far I've fed it aluminum, cast iron, hot rolled steel, and cold rolled steel, and it chewed them all just fine.  The low speed capability is amazing, most of my non drilling work has been in the 550-800 RPM range, and it hold the set speed very well, rarely dropping more than ten RPM.  I do feed it slow, but take pretty big bites.

I doubt you'll have any issues with it, just clean it and go! 

Ruben


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## uberlinuxgeek (Mar 14, 2013)

I love my mill from them, works for everything I need. The only thing for setup I could recommend besides any mods you want to make, is to verify the tramming. I had to shim mine when I got it so everything was squared up. I added DROs from Grizzly to mine to help with setup times and added the air shock kit so I could have more Z axis and less head drop. But that is just what I wanted.


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## larry5061 (Mar 16, 2013)

Ruben said:


> Congratulations!  That's a fine piece of equipment.  I got one just like a week or so ago, I'm pretty impressed with its power and quietness.
> 
> I got the optional speed display with mine, held on with three magnets.  I was really pushing the machine, side milling some cast iron with a 3/4" bit, which caused some pretty heavy vibration, and the speed display slipped, looked like it was soon to fall off.  The metal that the hold magnets grip isn't secured very well, but a couple of pieces of Industrial duty double sided tape from Home Depot fixed that issue!
> 
> ...



Where did you get the tachometer/speed display?
Thank you


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## larry5061 (Mar 16, 2013)

uberlinuxgeek said:


> I love my mill from them, works for everything I need. The only thing for setup I could recommend besides any mods you want to make, is to verify the tramming. I had to shim mine when I got it so everything was squared up. I added DROs from Grizzly to mine to help with setup times and added the air shock kit so I could have more Z axis and less head drop. But that is just what I wanted.



What did you use for shims?
Thank you


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## Tony Wells (Mar 16, 2013)

Just curious, but I've always read that people shim the column or whatever to correct out of square. Why doesn't anyone scrape it square? I'd think it would be more stable than shims.


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## uberlinuxgeek (Mar 17, 2013)

Having done the shim method, I am not sure how easy it would be to scrape since you would be working with both the weight of the column and the head, taking on and off until you hit the right spot. When I used shims I just went to the auto store and grabbed a feeler gauge set and went with that. But you are right it would be more stable if they were not there.


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## Tony Wells (Mar 17, 2013)

I was just thinking that after the error were determined, by shim or however you had to, then the base or foot of the column could be scraped to the same error and do away with any shims. But if this whole thing is caused by flex of the column, then it's going to be inconsistent anyway.


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## Ruben (Apr 2, 2013)

larry5061 said:


> Where did you get the tachometer/speed display?
> Thank you


From Little Machine Shop Like: http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3818&category=2 

Makes it easy to set the bit speed correctly.  I found that I was running much too fast with larger end mills if I didn't use it and just went by "sound".  Conversely, with small bits I tended to run too slow.


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## uberlinuxgeek (Apr 3, 2013)

I used automotive shims like they use to set plug gap. Can be gotten at any auto place and they vary in thickness from .0005 to .05 I think


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## wrmiller (Apr 7, 2013)

Just ordered mine, along with the air spring. 

So, how much are you guys having to shim the column?


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## eac67gt (Apr 7, 2013)

We have the same mill. When it just sat on the bench fastened to a 1 1/2 of wood for a stable base I trammed it and shimmed it to correct. Then we got heavy benches from the plant my son was working at and I put 3/4" plywood on top of them to dress them up a bit. We moved the mill to this bench and I fastened it down to the top of the bench. I have bolts that go completely through the top. When I went to re-tram the mill it had changed from old bench to the other. I found that depending on the tightness of each bolt holding the base to the bench it twisted the base causing the squareness to change. My suggestion would be if you fasten it down do so than tram. 

So far the mill has performed flawlessly since we got it. We did install the air spring kit because the spring support that is on it does not do a good job. Also we built a power feed for it which is great for larger parts and smoother milling finish. The other thing is adding DROs to it which you should be able to do for about $120 for all three axis. 
I found binding on the tables at certain locations and needed to lap the dovetail joint and jib which greatly improved the movement in the x and y.
The fine adjustment on the Z can be made smoother, easier to turn by aligning the linkage that comes out to the knob. I added another block on that linkage to keep the linkage in alignment because when you try to fine adjust the linkage tends to want to move out of alignment causing more friction in the rotation.

I have more little tweaks I did but I'll have to think about it.

Did you get a rotary table, 3" chuck for the rotary table and dividing plate for it? You may want to invest in this also.

Let us know how yours works out.

Have a great day!

Ed


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## markknx (Apr 7, 2013)

*wrmiller,*
 I only had to add a few thousand I think that it would change if i took all the mounting bolts out and re tightend them. I believe it is more of a base flex than column to base mounting issue. But to try to tram it from there would take a lot of trial and error.


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## wrmiller (Apr 7, 2013)

Would I be better off bolting this thing to 1/2" plate steel or aluminum instead of wood?


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## markknx (Apr 8, 2013)

I do not think it will matter as long as you have a good thick wood top. I'm on 3/4" hard press shelve board, but it rests across 1/4x2x2 L that the mill is throgh bolted to. I built the stand to fit.


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## eac67gt (Apr 8, 2013)

On our mill what I was trying to point out was, and I guess this is true with any machine, once it is in place to then adjust it. Once it is trammed leave it be. I would however definitely fasten it down. We had ours mounted to a 2' x 2' piece of wood and it would walk across the bench depending what was being milled. I didn't fasten it down but added rubber feet to the board and then it stayed in place. Now since we moved it it is fastened down. Now it is bolted through 3/4" plywood setting on top of a bench that has a 1/4" plate steel top. The top was in rough shape that is why we covered it. :nuts::nuts:





Ed


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## cazclocker (Aug 27, 2013)

I'm fixing to get the same 3960 mill in a couple months, except I'm getting the precision tool package (item #4722).

Couple of questions:

1. Where are you guys getting the "air brake" kit? I'm not seeing it on the LMS website.

2. LMS doesn't seem to sell a stand appropriate for this mill. I want a dedicated stand similar to the base under the PM machines *HERE*. Anyone have recommendations?

3. Lastly, I will probably get a rotary table. How does the LMS rotary table's (not the Tormach) build quality compare with the Sherline?

Thanks in advance...


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## eac67gt (Aug 27, 2013)

Air brake are you talking about the air spring on column?
This is the one we did.
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2258&category=

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## eac67gt (Aug 27, 2013)

For a stand this would probably work good 
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=2879248&PMAKA=208-8111


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## eac67gt (Aug 27, 2013)

For rotary table we got the lms 
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1810&category=
You will probably want a chuck if you don't already have one. We had the 3" chuck from our mini lathe. It works great for this app.
Also you may want tail stock and dividing plate. This would be a good overall kit
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3131&category=


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## cazclocker (Aug 27, 2013)

eac67gt said:


> Air brake are you talking about the air spring on column?
> This is the one we did.
> http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2258&category=
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 4



I have no idea what he's talking about. I was asking about the "air brake" mentioned by wrmiller in message #12.



eac67gt said:


> For a stand this would probably work good
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=2879248&PMAKA=208-8111
> 
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 4



Now yer talkin'! Thanks...



eac67gt said:


> For rotary table we got the lms
> http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1810&category=
> You will probably want a chuck if you don't already have one. We had the 3" chuck from our mini lathe. It works great for this app.
> Also you may want tail stock and dividing plate. This would be a good overall kit
> ...



Again, right on the mark! Thanks so much. I gather that you don't have too many regrets about your purchase. Happy, happy, happy (I'm thinking Duck Dynasty) !! :thumbsup:.


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## eac67gt (Aug 27, 2013)

In message#12 he says air spring and this is the spring to replace the spring that currently supports column head from factory. It was a great upgrade. The spring provided from factory poorly supports head. It was an easy upgrade to do and well worth it.

The mill is actually my son's but I use it more than he does and it was a great buy. As with any machine you will find things that won't suit but that is part of the fun. Rebuilding or designing fixes to suit your needs is the name of the game. Show me a machinist that hasn't modified a machine and I'll show you a 100% honest politician. Won't happen. 
I know you will live the machine and lms is great to work with. I talked with Chris, the owner of lms, at cabin fever and he knows his stuff.
If you need more help or have questions feel free to ask or pm me.
Ed

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## wrmiller (Aug 27, 2013)

I have the air spring on my mill and like it. I think the little 3" milling vise is too small, but I will be making some larger soft jaws out of aluminum so it will do for now until I can get a 4".

My DroPros DRO will be here this week in time to play this holiday weekend.  

All in all I've been pretty happy with mine. I had to shim about 5 thou on my column. No, I don't know how to scrape.


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## eac67gt (Aug 27, 2013)

The 3" my son bought for this machine is definitely to small. Most of our flat stock is 4". 
I have .006" under one corner. I did find, as I pointed out in this thread, that tightness of the bolts holding the base to my bench top changed the column. I went to 2 bolts in front and this helped. Also I found it important to use the torque wrench on column bolts. When tightening by hand I was tightening them to different levels causing tramming to be off. This is probably an obvious thing to do but I am a little slow.
Ed

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## eac67gt (Aug 27, 2013)

For the table/stand I listed from Enco, this might help with purchase. Don't miss this exclusive email-only double offer! From now through Friday, use both promo codes: DIS827 and SHP827 for an additional *15% off** and *free UPS ground shipping* on your web order of $149 or more (excluding machinery).


Ed


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## cazclocker (Aug 27, 2013)

eac67gt said:


> In message#12 he says air spring and this is the spring to replace the spring that currently supports column head from factory. It was a great upgrade. The spring provided from factory poorly supports head. It was an easy upgrade to do and well worth it.
> *...snip...*
> If you need more help or have questions feel free to ask or pm me.
> Ed
> ...



Thanks Ed! I truly appreciate your willingness to help. But, I still don't know what an air spring is. I gather it's something you fabricated for yourself.




wrmiller19 said:


> I have the air spring on my mill and like it. I think the little 3" milling vise is too small, but I will be making some larger soft jaws out of aluminum so it will do for now until I can get a 4".
> 
> My DroPros DRO will be here this week in time to play this holiday weekend.
> 
> All in all I've been pretty happy with mine. I had to shim about 5 thou on my column. No, I don't know how to scrape.



wrmiller, please see my comment above. I still don't know what an air spring is, what it looks like, or if it was something you purchased or fabricated for yourself. It may be that I'll just take delivery of my machine and let experience tell me...!)



eac67gt said:


> The 3" my son bought for this machine is definitely to small. Most of our flat stock is 4".
> I have .006" under one corner. I did find, as I pointed out in this thread, that tightness of the bolts holding the base to my bench top changed the column. I went to 2 bolts in front and this helped. Also I found it important to use the torque wrench on column bolts. When tightening by hand I was tightening them to different levels causing tramming to be off. This is probably an obvious thing to do but I am a little slow.
> Ed
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 4



Ahh...using a torque wrench makes sense. Luckily I have one already that should be just perfect.



eac67gt said:


> For the table/stand I listed from Enco, this might help with purchase. Don't miss this exclusive email-only double offer! From now through Friday, use both promo codes: DIS827 and SHP827 for an additional *15% off** and *free UPS ground shipping* on your web order of $149 or more (excluding machinery).
> 
> 
> Ed



YOWZA! Nothing like gettin' a few bucks off from a purchase...I got that email from Enco, but as usual I just deleted it... Enco's codes are very nice, sometimes.


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## eac67gt (Aug 27, 2013)

The air spring for the mill you want to get is this one http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4005&category=

Now as far as where it is here is a pic of ours. 
	

		
			
		

		
	



It is the black rod coming up out of the column in back and then attaches to mill head supporting it where ever you position it.
It replaces the torsion spring that is mounted on side of column to support head.
An air spring is a piston and cylinder that will hold a weight of a preset value at a certain position.
Here is the link to the instructions on installing it. http://littlemachineshop.com/Instructions/AirSpringKitHitorque.pdf

 Here is the link to manual for mill. If you go to page 29, parts diagram, and look at parts 61 through 72, this is what would be replaced.
Also on page 11 there is a good picture of it. It is the round black thing with arm sticking out from it. This is the spring enclosure and supporting arm to head that you would be removing and replacing with air spring.


I buy a lot from Enco but like most vendors you need to watch the prices.....shop around.

Ed


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## Walt (Aug 27, 2013)

cazclocker said:


> Thanks Ed! I truly appreciate your willingness to help. But, I still don't know what an air spring is. I gather it's something you fabricated for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



The air spring is a device to take up the backlash for the z-axis gear mechanism. In order to cut into a work piece, the motor head has to be screwed down the support column. Because there is friction holding the motor head, it tends to hang up until the backlash is taken up. That makes it hard to track the depth of cut. Even worse, the friction holding the head will give way unpredictably, dropping the end mill into the work piece deeper than intended. If you're lucky, no harm done. If not, pieces may go flying.

Walt


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## cazclocker (Aug 27, 2013)

eac67gt said:


> The air spring for the mill you want to get is this one http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4005&category=
> 
> Now as far as where it is here is a pic of ours.
> 
> ...



Thank you Ed! I see it now - I didn't find it because it was buried under "Kits" and then "Conversion Kits". I'm adding that to my order tomorrow morning. Pics coming when I get the whole shebang set up and plugged in!


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## eac67gt (Aug 27, 2013)

I may be missing it but in the precision tool package they show a drill chuck but no arbor for it. I didn't see it listed either. It would be kind of silly if they didn't include this but you might want to check unless you already have it on your list.

Ed


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## wrmiller (Aug 27, 2013)

The mill comes with an R8/33j arbor.


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## eac67gt (Aug 27, 2013)

Ok cool. Nothing sucks like getting new toy and can't use it. 
There is no doubt like any hobby our profession you never have everything you need. My wife always says well didn't you just buy one of those....yeah but this one is different and I really needed it. Sounds good anyway.
Ed

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## wrmiller (Aug 27, 2013)

If I remember Chris' comments correctly, he was not impressed with the quality of the chuck offerings that came with the mill or something like that, and didn't want his company's (LMS) associated with such.

Or something like that.  

I'm paraphrasing of course.


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## cazclocker (Aug 27, 2013)

eac67gt said:


> I may be missing it but in the precision tool package they show a drill chuck but no arbor for it. I didn't see it listed either. It would be kind of silly if they didn't include this but you might want to check unless you already have it on your list.
> 
> Ed



Uh-oh...anic:



wrmiller19 said:


> The mill comes with an R8/33j arbor.



Whew! 



wrmiller19 said:


> If I remember Chris' comments correctly, he was not impressed with the quality of the chuck offerings that came with the mill or something like that, and didn't want his company's (LMS) associated with such.
> 
> Or something like that.
> 
> I'm paraphrasing of course.



I'm sure I'll get a couple of Jacobs chucks at least - maybe something better too. Like an Albrecht. :drinkingbeer:


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## engelbob (Sep 1, 2013)

Man, you guys are fun to watch.  I have the LMS mini-lathe and have been considering their mini-mill.  I think you have made up my mind and I'll be ordering one in the near future.  I now have a list of the accessories to buy and look forward to getting it up and running.  I'll be watching for your posts in the future to help me along. 


Thanks guys!


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## cazclocker (Sep 1, 2013)

OK, I've got my wish list finished. My choice of milling machine came down to the PM-25MV and the Little Machine Shop 3960 HiTorque Mini-Mill. There's no way for me to personally examine either machine, so my choice landed with LMS because of the superb customer service and backup. I have a good friend in Oregon who tells me LMS has been a regular exhibitor at the GEARS show for many years. Plus, they've answered all my questions over the phone, and been friendly and knowledgeable every time. In short, if I buy a LMS package, I can reasonably feel that I won't be hung out to dry when the inevitable questions come up.

So here's what I'm going to purchase:

1. *HiTorque Mini Mill, solid column, with precision tooling package, part #4722*
2. *Rotary Table Package, part #3131*
3. *Air Spring Conversion Kit, part #4005*
4. *Tachometer, part #3818*
5. *Shim Stock Assortment, 0.0005" to 0.005", part #4304*

The air spring conversion kit is something I wouldn't have known about if it wasn't for you guys here! Thanks to you! Ditto on the rotary table package.

The only variation on the above items I'm going to ask for is a substitution on the drill chuck.  The #4722 package comes with a #1212 1/2" drill chuck that sells alone for $10.95. I plan to ask LMS to please substitute their #3153 1/2" drill chuck, and leave out the set of parallels since I already have the same set that comes with the #4722 package. That way I'll get a better chuck and I won't end up with a duplicate set of parallels.

I was going to add the *milling machine stand sold by Enco* and others, but some of the reviews say it's somewhat flimsy and lightweight. So I'm just going to build my own. The Enco stand is only 27" high, too - I'm going to make mine 30" high since I'm 6'2" - I suspect mine will be stronger and heavier, besides being a bit taller! :drinkingbeer:


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## wrmiller (Sep 1, 2013)

I don't have the rotary table, nor the tach, but otherwise we have the same machine. It's a good little machine, although I wish I could go back and get the PM-25. I could use a slightly larger work envelope, and I don't like the rack and pinion on the Z axis. And from what I've heard here, I think PM gives good pre and post sale support. I'd still be buying stuff from LMS though.  

As I am currently going through the process of fitting a 3-axis DRO-Pro, I will be keeping this for the short-term. One reason for the DRO is to help me deal with all the slop in the Z-axis, although I've thought about trying to shim the rack to deal with some of the slop. All in all though, it's been a pretty good little machine to this point.


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## cazclocker (Sep 1, 2013)

wrmiller19 said:


> I don't have the rotary table, nor the tach, but otherwise we have the same machine. It's a good little machine, although I wish I could go back and get the PM-25. I could use a slightly larger work envelope, and I don't like the rack and pinion on the Z axis. And from what I've heard here, I think PM gives good pre and post sale support. I'd still be buying stuff from LMS though.
> 
> As I am currently going through the process of fitting a 3-axis DRO-Pro, I will be keeping this for the short-term. One reason for the DRO is to help me deal with all the slop in the Z-axis, although I've thought about trying to shim the rack to deal with some of the slop. All in all though, it's been a pretty good little machine to this point.



wrmiller, what don't you like about the rack & pinion? I'm just curious - I'm not married to LMS yet, and I could get the PM machine for roughly the same $$$ as the LMS package (PM says their shipping is free - can that be right? You mean they'll put a machine on a truck in Pennsylvania and drive all the way to Arizona, and then drive back - all for NOTHING?).

Another thing that attracted me to the LMS 3690 mill is that the head has about 10" drop, and the PM machine has about 2" of quill drop. Apparently they work completely differently - the PM's quill drops from the spindle while the head remains stationary, while the LMS machine's entire head drops while the quill remains stationary. Are you saying the Z axis rack/pinion yields some sort of undesirable action?

The 3-axis DRO pro looks pretty nice. Hope you like it.


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## wrmiller (Sep 2, 2013)

Hey Doug,

First off, this is just MY opinion, OK? Both configurations will work, obviously, but I'm not real happy with this mechanism on the LMS. As to the reason why:

When I first was learning at my friends gunsmithing business, he had BP clone. I was taught (and became accustomed to) bringing the table close to the cutter with the knee crank, touching the cutter to the work surface by bringing the quil down and locking it, setting the Z zero on the knee dial (he only had a two-axis DRO) and then bumping the Z handle down to clear the cutter from the work. This set my Z-axis reference, or zero. I'm sure the machinists here would describe a different way, but this worked well, and quickly, for the bulk of the machining we did in the shop.

My first little mill like this was back in 2000 and I bought it from a guy who advertised in the Home Shop Machinist. He basically took the cheap Chinese mill and modified it with a R-8 spindle (not available back then), class 7 bearings, a quill that went about 1.5", and a leadscrew for the Z axis very similar to the one on the PM machines. Add the solid column, and inch leadscrews and it was quite the little machine. He put so much work in this thing that he wasn't making much money on each one, and he still had to compete with the HF crowd that figured price was everything, even if the machine wasn't the same...  

Anyway, the transition from the big mill to this little one was very minimal, with the primary difference being where the Z-axis knob was located.

Now I have this LMS machine that has no qilll and the slop on the Z-axis fine feed knob is about a full turn or more. Couple that with the lack of feel on the knob/rack-and-pinion interface, and I am not quite sure when the head actually starts to move. Which is why I bought the DRO, so I can better track the absolute movement of the Z-axis regardless of how much slop is in the mechanism. A rather expensive fix  you might say, but I like having a readout instead of trying to count handle turns anyway. As I have said before, I'm not a machinist, I just like using some of their machines to make things.  

The PM-25 has almost the exact configuration, albeit in a larger package, as the mill I had years ago. I didn't get it because I was afraid of the extra weight and my ability to manhandle it around by myself without any lifts or other mechanical assistance. I goofed, because I managed to muscle around my 300 lb South Bend without too much trouble (minor muscle pulls and my hip complaining doesn't count). Oh well, lesson learned.

With the air spring, the LMS mill has over 10" of Z-axis travel. The PM has 13", and the quill. The PM has more Y-axis travel too, which I will have to work around on the LMS machine. And a Z-axis leadscrew w/quill. I thought about trying to modify the LMS mill to approximate the one I had years ago, but if I disassemble my LMS mill, I have nothing to make the mods with... 

 Buyers remorse? Probably. More like not completely thinking this through before I jumped. I will eventually get the PM machine, and maybe relegate the LMS to precision drill press duty.  

But keep in mind, this is just me. Others have and like the little LMS machine, and it does pretty decent work for me. It's just not quite what I want for the work I want to do or how I do it. I'm just expressing my experience. Not trying to influence your decision.

Bill




cazclocker said:


> wrmiller, what don't you like about the rack & pinion? I'm just curious - I'm not married to LMS yet, and I could get the PM machine for roughly the same $$$ as the LMS package (PM says their shipping is free - can that be right? You mean they'll put a machine on a truck in Pennsylvania and drive all the way to Arizona, and then drive back - all for NOTHING?).
> 
> Another thing that attracted me to the LMS 3690 mill is that the head has about 10" drop, and the PM machine has about 2" of quill drop. Apparently they work completely differently - the PM's quill drops from the spindle while the head remains stationary, while the LMS machine's entire head drops while the quill remains stationary. Are you saying the Z axis rack/pinion yields some sort of undesirable action?
> 
> The 3-axis DRO pro looks pretty nice. Hope you like it.


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## eac67gt (Sep 2, 2013)

As Bill has said there are some things that are more desirable on the PM. I think you will find on any machine that there are things more desirable. 
On the LMS mill we have, like the one you listed, I have found things that did not sit me. I have made many modifications. 
I never did metal machining before my son bought this mill. I have good engineering and mechanical skills to redesign things to suit my needs.
This is one point I think I am trying to point out. On most machines you will find things that don't suit and you will modify. That is part of the fun.
If I had the choice and it was my money I would be buying a nice knee mill.
The bottom line is you need to know your budget, needs, future needs, space available and do lots of research. You have seemed to done most of this. Now you make a purchase and live with it. Easier said then done for sure because there always be that what if and like computers that new model you wish you waited for. (boy I can babble) 
I haven't seen any points made by members here that seem misleading or incorrect but then once again I am not a pro.
Good luck on your purchase and most importantly have fun.

Have a great day!
Ed

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## Trek (Apr 9, 2014)

wrmiller19 said:


> Hey Doug,
> 
> First off, this is just MY opinion, OK? Both configurations will work, obviously, but I'm not real happy with this mechanism on the LMS. As to the reason why:
> 
> ...




Im still setting mine up when I have the time getting the DRO Y axis is the last thing Im working on. I agree 1000% about the Z axis fine feed and its terrible. I did add a 12" Shars magnetic scale with the remote readout I stuck to the plate above the operation box. I also upgraded the accordian cover on Y axis which costs me a little movemen each way but I dont think its a big deal at this point. I had not heard  of the PM machines before I bought this or I probably would have done so. But Im still happy with the LMS and if anyone has or knows how to add a quill function for even just an inch or two of travel Id be interested. I still have to add a X power feed when I can find the coin later on this summer. For now its getting to be shooting season and the 3 Gun stuff moves up to the top of priorities. I also still have to add the tach kit I got from a guy who makes them with the LED 7 segment lights and a extra cable to hook up the reversing switch at macpod. I have a couple things I had to do for my Akdal mags and a other minor couple things but now I can slow down and just enjoy playing with the mill. Its a hobby unto itself and a very zen kind of hobby. 
And one more thing. I did add the air spring kit. And while it works in a manor of speaking there is a lot of flex. 
When I get it all done I will post a before and after pic.  That may be a week or so with what else I have on my plate.


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## wrmiller (Apr 9, 2014)

Once my air spring was properly adjusted, it doesn't flex at all and works well.

Bill


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## eac67gt (Apr 10, 2014)

Is the air spring from lms? What exactly is flexing? Just curious.
Ours is a lms and I don't have any sort of problem with it. 
It works great but when trying to use it more like a drill press I didn't like the resistance of bringing head back up quickly.
Other than that it works great and got rid of that arm that supported the head. In somethings the arm would get in the way.

Ed

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