# I want to raise height of my lathe



## waverly (Apr 4, 2019)

I'm getting ready to start construction of my new shop. I'm 6'2" and would like to raise my lathe up 3"-4". If I have my concrete guy build up the floor 3-4 inches is that acceptable, or a waste of money. My plan is to pour the raised area at the same time as slab for the shop. I'm trying to alleviate bending over so much to see. My eyes are not what they used to be. For the record it is a Matthews 13x40GT and it's on the factory stand.

Thanks for any advice, input, etc.

Waverly


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## ThinWoodsman (Apr 4, 2019)

I know the feeling - same height and it feels like all the machines were designed for someone a foot shorter than me. I ended up putting a stool near each machine which I use during the long hunched-over setup operations.

Sounds like a good plan, with one small caveat: it may complicate getting the machine to its location (can't just use a bunch of rollers if the floor rises). Might want to stick rebar uprights in the corners, or even a rebar grid at the height of the rest of the floor. Somebody with more construction experience than me should advise though


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## f350ca (Apr 4, 2019)

I've been wanting to raise my larger lathe, its wide and find it hard on the back bending over to see in a bore. Planned on making heavy steel or preferably cast iron spacers. Wouldn't recommend pouring a raised pad, though it would work what if you change out lathes or decide to move it.

Greg


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## BenW (Apr 4, 2019)

I recently raised my 13*something up 3-4" and don't regret it one bit. Not having to constantly lean over the lathe is a big plus. I didn't pour a new floor but the existing one was old, rough and out of level so I poured two rectangular slabs to match the lathe base and bolted the base down, then I leveled the bed with shims. 

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk


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## RJSakowski (Apr 4, 2019)

I would suggest a number of 4"x8"x16" concrete blocks from the DIY, strategically placed and bedded in mortar.  They will provide solid support and can easilyt be removed if necessary in the future.  I have also used concrete blocks set with mortar to make a perimeter and filled the interior with concrete.  A fairly easy DIY project.


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## NCjeeper (Apr 4, 2019)

I raised my 16x54" Monarch up 3". I put steel rounds underneath each lathe foot.


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## BFHammer (Apr 4, 2019)

I’m the same height and I raised my PM1236 by about 5” by adding some simple supports made from 3x3 square tube and adjustable pads.
Just the right height now and I can rearrange the shop one day if need be.


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## benmychree (Apr 4, 2019)

On my 19" Regal, I raised it 4" using square tubing similar to the post above, but it did not have cabinet legs, only single feet at each end, I bolted them to the floor with a thickness of roofing felt under each bolting point, then shimmed for level/alignment on top, under each foot.  I did 4" because I was using duck boards to stand on, 2 thicknesses if 1" finished lumber, so the actual raise was about 1 1/2", enough to avoid much stooping over for my 5'-9 1/2" height.  Since I moved the lathe home after retireing, I removed the spacers since I now use rubber mats that are only about 1/2" thick.


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## 7milesup (Apr 4, 2019)

I would not pour concrete as a lift for your lathe.  If you, or the next person wants to move stuff around, now you have this big chunk of concrete sticking up.  not good.


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## benmychree (Apr 4, 2019)

If concrete were used and poured on top of cured concrete, it could be broken up rather easily later on, that being said, I think the square tube approach is the best one, as I earlier posted.


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## kb58 (Apr 4, 2019)

I'd use the opportunity to add wheels and feet.


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## benmychree (Apr 4, 2019)

I f one does not care about machine alignment or cutting unintended tapers, that would be a good idea.


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## jbolt (Apr 4, 2019)

PM-1440GT raised 6". I am 6'1" and it is the perfect height for me. Good rule of thumb is to have the cross travel dial at elbow height. These were made from 2" x 1/4" angle and 2" x 3/8" strap, what I had on hand.


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## mikey (Apr 4, 2019)

benmychree said:


> I f one does not care about machine alignment or cutting unintended tapers, that would be a good idea.



I don't know, John. With the leveling casters you find today, wheels and a level lathe are not incompatible. A Carrymaster SLC-600 caster will support 600# per caster and raise the lathe up 4". It will allow for easy mobility if needed but will also provide a solid base that is easily leveled. If the lathe just needs to be raised then the steel bases that the guys showed is ideal. If the lathe must be mobile from time to time then I would consider Carrymaster casters myself.


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## benmychree (Apr 4, 2019)

If God had intended casters to be applied to a lathe, he (or she) would have created them as such!


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## mikey (Apr 4, 2019)

benmychree said:


> If God had intended casters to be applied to a lathe, he (or she) would have created them as such!


True 'dat!


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## Dabbler (Apr 5, 2019)

My good friend recieved a 16" X 60" lathe (brand new) from a supplier here.  It was _waay_ too low.  So he fabricated 6 'feet' out of 4"X4" tubing, each 4" long, with a 1/2" plate welded on top.  he then raised the lathe up and placed one each under each levelling screw / foot.  Solid as a rock.  Easily moved if the lathe needs relocating.  Strong enough for a 3800# lathe.


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## jbolt (Apr 5, 2019)

mikey said:


> I don't know, John. With the leveling casters you find today, wheels and a level lathe are not incompatible. A Carrymaster SLC-600 caster will support 600# per caster and raise the lathe up 4". It will allow for easy mobility if needed but will also provide a solid base that is easily leveled. If the lathe just needs to be raised then the steel bases that the guys showed is ideal. If the lathe must be mobile from time to time then I would consider Carrymaster casters myself.


I have those on my 1400# mill. The adjusters are a PITA to get to and use (you need to jack up the machine to get the weight off the pad to adjust it), the wheels are too small to roll well for the weight and the pads are too soft for precision leveling of a lathe as they compress over time. Last time I moved my mill I used a toe jack to lift it and put the caster/feet on machine skates. Took 1/10 the time.


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## mikey (Apr 5, 2019)

jbolt said:


> I have those on my 1400# mill. The adjusters are a PITA to get to and use (you need to jack up the machine to get the weight off the pad to adjust it), the wheels are too small to roll well for the weight and the pads are too soft for precision leveling of a lathe as they compress over time. Last time I moved my mill I used a toe jack to lift it and put the caster/feet on machine skates. Took 1/10 the time.




Odd. I have the SLC-300's under my 800# mill and can roll it around with one finger, then level them in about one minute with very little effort.


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## Cooter Brown (Apr 5, 2019)

benmychree said:


> If God had intended casters to be applied to a lathe, he (or she) would have created them as such!



I have a south bend heavy 10 on casters lulz..... I bought it like that....


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## Titanium Knurler (Apr 5, 2019)

Waverly, I have a 1236-T and am the same height.  This was my solution:

















It has been solid, mobile and easily adjustable.   If interested search for thread “Setting-up the PM 1236-T” here on H-M and look at posts 20 through 32 for details.  Good luck.


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## fixit (Apr 5, 2019)

My 9X20 has been on 2 4 X 4 laid on the floor for 8 years. Works well for me I'm 6' 4" tall & 76 years old


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## Firstgear (Apr 5, 2019)

or you could go the other way and put a 4" or whatever pit in front of the lathe.....I had a pit put in the floor of the inner shop to put a midrise lift in it.  When the time comes, probably after I am dead, the floor can be filled in and easily add concrete.


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## RJSakowski (Apr 5, 2019)

If lathes were built like the proverbial brick s**thouse, they wouldn't need to be leveled but the nature of the beast is that they flex and when they flex, the bed can twist.  Proper leveling of a lathe requires a machinists level and the adjustments are measured in thousandths.  The adjustment is usually verified by the two collar test or using Rollie's Dad's Method.

The problem with a lathe on casters is that every time the lathe is moved, it must be re-leveled. The very best of floors will have imperfections.  Masons and carpenters don't work to thousandths.  Even a slight move can mess up a lathe's alignment.  For this reason, my lathe is stationary.

I get that there are circumstances where a machine must be mobile.  Not everybody has an ideal shop layout.  But if the machine needs to be moved, as John said above, one must deal with the possibility that misalignment will occur and turnings will have tapers or that releveling is necessary.


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## kb58 (Apr 5, 2019)

mikey said:


> I don't know, John. With the leveling casters you find today, wheels and a level lathe are not incompatible. A Carrymaster SLC-600 caster will support 600# per caster and raise the lathe up 4". It will allow for easy mobility if needed but will also provide a solid base that is easily leveled. If the lathe just needs to be raised then the steel bases that the guys showed is ideal. If the lathe must be mobile from time to time then I would consider Carrymaster casters myself.


I was suggesting having both and can't see how having screw-down feet could possibly be worse than the stand's own feet.


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## Bamban (Apr 5, 2019)

Here is a cheapie approach. 4 inch OD aluminum 2 inches thick, 4 pieces on eBay cheap. 5/8 bolts. Threaded the holes in SBL13 accordingly.


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## Tozguy (Apr 5, 2019)

Bamban, looks smart, simple and straightforward, not cheapie to me.


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## Tozguy (Apr 6, 2019)

This is cheapie, but it works!


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## waverly (Apr 10, 2019)

I'd like to thank everyone for opinions, advice, etc.

What I've decided to do is this. I'm going to have my concrete guy pour an H shaped 4" high pad to put the lathe on. It's H shaped to give my size 13 foot clearance. It's a blank canvas right now, but I should finally have permits this week. Hopefully construction will begin in the next few weeks.

Once again once again thanks to all.

Regards, Waverly


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## kb58 (Apr 11, 2019)

Permits... sheez, especially for something that's non (building) structural sitting on an existing floor. Going off-topic, reminds me of our Planning Department, who say you need a permit to replace a sink fixture or toilet. Right...

Back on topic, I went with a raised and wheeled stand, because being able to move around 1-2000 lb stuff was important to me.


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