# Old fart needs help/advise (again)



## pandreasen (Jun 27, 2020)

Some years ago, I bought a precision Jacobs chuck (#JKP-130-J33 Old style black/satin)
Well I never really used it so I stored it well for later use. NOW, I find that Jacobs recommends CLOSING the jaws before either disassembling it or whatever. Well I left it cranked wide open. CANNOT move jaws. Period! I soaked it in kerosene (Jacobs recommendation) for a few weeks and got so I could unscrew the the front sleeve portion, but can't take it apart as the jaws WILL NOT MOVE! Not sure why or what to try next. The most surprising thing is that Jacobs still sells that model (now all pretty satin finish) for just under $300. A LOT less than I paid several years ago. When I asked them if I could send it back and pay to have it rebuilt, I was told (unbelievably) that Jacobs does NOT REPAIR THEIR PRODUCTS SUCH AS CHUCKS! I would just have to replace it! Seriously! I couldn't believe it so I called again and got someone else telling me the same thing! They have a technical paper on disassembly (in closed position) of a WORKING chuck for rebuilding, but zip for help or even advise (other than soaking it) in repairing it.
Does any member (or alien, or ...) know how to get this sucker apart? I hate & can't afford to just throw away several hundred dollars of unused equipment. Military retirement only goes so far!


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## Lo-Fi (Jun 27, 2020)

Did you leave it completely open? If not, have you tried using a hammer and brass drift or similar to try and shift the jaws a little? Anything to break the dried up oily gunk that's no doubt glued it all together. _Gentle_ heat may also help. Though having said that, I'm not 100% sure it's vital to have the jaws closed to disassemble. Have you tried drifting the outer case off yet as it is? Hopefully someone who's disassembled one more recently than me will chime in with an answer on that. 

 I'm sure you'll get it moving.


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## markba633csi (Jun 27, 2020)

I'm sure some soaking and heat will get it loose,  give it some time.  Liquid Wrench be very, very good to me
-Mark


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## mikey (Jun 27, 2020)

I just looked at the Jacobs paper on disassembling this chuck and it looks suspiciously like an Albrecht design. My suggestion is to remove the knurled collar at the back, then make a fixture to hold the body in a vise so you can use a strap wrench on the knurled hood of the chuck, the part you grab when using it. It should be a right hand thread. If you can break that hood loose then you should be able to get it apart, regardless of the position of the screws. The only thing I can think of that would require you to have the jaws closed would be the position of the leadscrew in the threaded inner body but even then I think if you can break the hood loose, this would allow you to get those jaws freed up enough to move them.


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## extropic (Jun 28, 2020)

I had the same situation recently with a NOS (very old) 1/4" Jacobs. Couldn't budge it (as received). I soaked it in mineral spirits solvent for a few days which allowed me to key crank it a little. More soaking, then squirts of aerosol brake cleaner to remove residue. If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, it shouldn't take long if you put the chuck in a jar of solvent placed in the ultrasonic.


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## bobl (Jul 6, 2020)

pandreasen said:


> Some years ago, I bought a precision Jacobs chuck (#JKP-130-J33 Old style black/satin)
> Well I never really used it so I stored it well for later use. NOW, I find that Jacobs recommends CLOSING the jaws before either disassembling it or whatever. Well I left it cranked wide open. CANNOT move jaws. Period! I soaked it in kerosene (Jacobs recommendation) for a few weeks and got so I could unscrew the the front sleeve portion, but can't take it apart as the jaws WILL NOT MOVE! Not sure why or what to try next. The most surprising thing is that Jacobs still sells that model (now all pretty satin finish) for just under $300. A LOT less than I paid several years ago. When I asked them if I could send it back and pay to have it rebuilt, I was told (unbelievably) that Jacobs does NOT REPAIR THEIR PRODUCTS SUCH AS CHUCKS! I would just have to replace it! Seriously! I couldn't believe it so I called again and got someone else telling me the same thing! They have a technical paper on disassembly (in closed position) of a WORKING chuck for rebuilding, but zip for help or even advise (other than soaking it) in repairing it.
> Does any member (or alien, or ...) know how to get this sucker apart? I hate & can't afford to just throw away several hundred dollars of unused equipment. Military retirement only goes so far!
> 
> View attachment 328932



My be trying WD40 or liquid wrench cold be little rust got in good luck 


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk


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## bobl (Jul 6, 2020)

pandreasen said:


> Some years ago, I bought a precision Jacobs chuck (#JKP-130-J33 Old style black/satin)
> Well I never really used it so I stored it well for later use. NOW, I find that Jacobs recommends CLOSING the jaws before either disassembling it or whatever. Well I left it cranked wide open. CANNOT move jaws. Period! I soaked it in kerosene (Jacobs recommendation) for a few weeks and got so I could unscrew the the front sleeve portion, but can't take it apart as the jaws WILL NOT MOVE! Not sure why or what to try next. The most surprising thing is that Jacobs still sells that model (now all pretty satin finish) for just under $300. A LOT less than I paid several years ago. When I asked them if I could send it back and pay to have it rebuilt, I was told (unbelievably) that Jacobs does NOT REPAIR THEIR PRODUCTS SUCH AS CHUCKS! I would just have to replace it! Seriously! I couldn't believe it so I called again and got someone else telling me the same thing! They have a technical paper on disassembly (in closed position) of a WORKING chuck for rebuilding, but zip for help or even advise (other than soaking it) in repairing it.
> Does any member (or alien, or ...) know how to get this sucker apart? I hate & can't afford to just throw away several hundred dollars of unused equipment. Military retirement only goes so far!
> 
> View attachment 328932



My be trying WD40 or liquid wrench cold be little rust got in good luck 


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk


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## middle.road (Jul 7, 2020)

mineral spirits, or liquid wrench oughta do it. 
I've had a few brought back doing it that way.
Had one 3/8" Albrecht that must have been sitting for a long time before I got it. Wouldn't budge.
Dropped in some mineral spirits for a week and it came out functioning.


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## Saguaro Slim (Jul 8, 2020)

Kroil (pricey and stinky) 
Homebrew 50% acetone / 50% ATF


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## NortonDommi (Jul 8, 2020)

I make my own penetrating fluid of a 1:1:1 mix of Kerosene: ATF: Diesel and I have an old deep fryer full of it that smaller seized items go into.  I heat up to around 140 -160 degrees C,(284 - 320 degrees F),for an hour or so then turn off and let cool overnight.
The auto-ignition temperature of Kerosene is 295 C or 563 F  so even going up to 200 degrees is O.K. but it pays to keep hardening and temper in mind.  https://www.safetystoragecentre.co.uk/advice/Auto-Ignition-Temperature-5.html
Amazing how many things I've recovered. Old dried oil and grease really can only be shifted with heat or much brute force.
The heating and soaking in a solvent that is also a lubricant dissolves the old deposits and allows a lubricant layer to coat the parts.
Kerosene or Diesel straight gently heated works great to but Kerosene works best.
Nice looking chuck I hope you save it.


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## Tozguy (Jul 8, 2020)

Norton's post reminds me of how we used to clean engine parts in a pot of melted paraffin wax. Way back then paraffin wax was commonly used for sealing up preserves and sold in bricks just about everywhere. 
Those were in the days before so many modern miracle penetrating oils (that don't work) were marketed.
I have also seen a video on how to free a wheel lug nut using a melted candle. 
Enough reminiscing, time for a nap!


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## pandreasen (Jul 9, 2020)

Soaked almost 2 weeks in kerosene (which factory recommened as what they use) NO go.
Soaked another week in Mineral Spirits (HATE that stuff, you cannot get it all off). No go.
Soaked almost another week in Kroil (one of MY old favs). No go.
I can get the lower face to unscrew, but the jaws and rod never budge. I BROKE a good (OLD Craftsman) channel locks on it!
Now have it shut into a jar of penetrating fluid!


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## pandreasen (Jul 9, 2020)

Ah, Norton...
After a "sort of accident" someone (Might have been me, but not admitting it) almost burned down daughters garage (I live with her, only one that can stand me I think) by accidentally igniting a MAPGAS bottle with a broken outlet. It was spewing out nicely! (Uh, and I have a nervous habit of clicking things... like the spark ignitor I was holding... (I mean SOMEONE was holding!! Yeah, nothing even warm allowed on property if I am near it. (Good thing she doesn't know what a 2200 deg. heat treat oven looks like! Heheh)


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## NortonDommi (Jul 9, 2020)

pandreasen said:


> Ah, Norton...
> After a "sort of accident" someone (Might have been me, but not admitting it) almost burned down daughters garage (I live with her, only one that can stand me I think) by accidentally igniting a MAPGAS bottle with a broken outlet. It was spewing out nicely! (Uh, and I have a nervous habit of clicking things... like the spark ignitor I was holding... (I mean SOMEONE was holding!! Yeah, nothing even warm allowed on property if I am near it. (Good thing she doesn't know what a 2200 deg. heat treat oven looks like! Heheh)


I have a 'friend' who is a pyromaniac, he has set fire to my back lawn  a couple of times, near 3 acres of another friends farm and a few other things I am aware of.  Thankfully he has moved up South to the big island and it is snowing where he is today plus he has a woman that keeps him on a very tight leash around flammable objects.

  I like the old deep frier because you can dial in a temperature and leave it.  Epoxy a stop if you are worried about exceeding the auto-ignition point and it is safer than boiling a kettle.

P.S.  Never admit nuffin! Especially to one of the master class.


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## mikey (Jul 9, 2020)

NortonDommi said:


> Thankfully he has moved up South to the big island ...



I just gotta' ask ... he moved UP South? I know you're down under but isn't South, South, as in DOWN? Excuse me if I'm being stupid, Norton; it's sort of a permanent affliction for me.


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## NortonDommi (Jul 9, 2020)

mikey said:


> I just gotta' ask ... he moved UP South? I know you're down under but isn't South, South, as in DOWN? Excuse me if I'm being stupid, Norton; it's sort of a permanent affliction for me.


No you are not being stupid, it goes like this:
Everybody has gotten into the habit of saying "Up North" and "Down South" because all the most commonly used languages come from people who evolved in the Northern Hemisphere. 'Up' being to the closest Magnetic Pole which is the Northern one.
Living on the other side of the equator my closet Magnetic Pole is the Southern one so South is 'up' to me and North is 'down'.
Great way to confuse people after a few beers aye?

'Up' & 'Down' being subjective terms since we are sitting on a little ball of rock with a molten Iron core floating around in a really, really big space we know virtually nothing about. For some reason I am now thinking of the Rocky Horror Picture Show? ? ?

BTW I'm nearly on top of the world. Already in Penguin territory.


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## brino (Jul 9, 2020)

....and hey, if the red needle on my compass is really a North magnetic pole, isn't it really pointing South?!?!

-brino


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## NortonDommi (Jul 9, 2020)

The outer edge of the needle is a magnetic South pole so it point towards the Earths Magnetic North Pole no matter where you are unless you are in Alaska and a couple of other places.


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## Tozguy (Jul 9, 2020)

When you are at the north pole you can't go north, east or west. When you are at the south pole you can't go south, east or west.


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## NortonDommi (Jul 9, 2020)

When the Magnetic Poles flip,(they are well overdue to do so),we will all need to go on an orientation course.


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## brino (Jul 9, 2020)

NortonDommi said:


> When the Magnetic Poles flip,(they are well overdue to do so),we will all need to go on an orientation course.



.........but how do we find the class?
-brino


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## NortonDommi (Jul 10, 2020)

brino said:


> .........but how do we find the class?
> -brino


Pass... Your compass - she be no good.


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## Tozguy (Jul 10, 2020)

Keep fresh batteries in both your GPS (and your spare GPS) just in case the poles switch before we are ready.


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## extropic (Jul 10, 2020)

I think the "up" and "down" thing has nothing to do with which pole you're nearest to. It's because of the convention of putting North at the top of a MAP. Undoubtedly, the convention results from influences of explorers and Empires based in the Northern Hemisphere, but still the international convention, AFAIK.
I doubt that the countries downunder produce maps with the southern extreme at the top of the sheet, but maybe.


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## NortonDommi (Jul 10, 2020)

extropic said:


> I think the "up" and "down" thing has nothing to do with which pole you're nearest to. It's because of the convention of putting North at the top of a MAP. Undoubtedly, the convention results from influences of explorers and Empires based in the Northern Hemisphere, but still the international convention, AFAIK.
> I doubt that the countries downunder produce maps with the southern extreme at the top of the sheet, but maybe.


Our maps have North at the top of the map but as you would know, on the ground you always adjust your compass for magnetic deviation and orientate your map to the terrain.
To use modern terminology 'Up' and 'Down' are just social constructs and when I speak 'My Truth' I say 'Up' is away from the Equator no matter which hemisphere you are in with regard to the poles.  'Up' in relation to everyday activities is away from the center of Earth. Anyway that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
As said, it is a good way to start arguments/debates over a beer. We up here on top of the world are doing just mighty fine thanks.


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## Tozguy (Jul 10, 2020)

Just wondering if you fellas up south living with the penguins get to see southern lights on a clear night. Us folk up north living close to the seals get to see some spectacular shows in the sky called the Northern Lights which apparently are generated by the magnetism of the poles. Hoping Savarin can shed some more light on this.


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## hman (Jul 10, 2020)

Hmmmm ... I always thought "up" was what pointed away from the center of the earth. 
But then again, if you get a globe and put a little stick figure on New Zeland, its head will be definitely be oriented more toward the south pole than toward the north.


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## pandreasen (Jul 10, 2020)

Heck, I caint even folla this conversation! I am still trying ta fugure out why you would shrimp on a poor little thin girl like "Barbi"!


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## NortonDommi (Jul 10, 2020)

Tozguy said:


> Just wondering if you fellas up south living with the penguins get to see southern lights on a clear night


We have penguins, seals, common dolphins, Orca and a few species of whale in the harbor but are too close to the Equator in North Island for the Southern Lights but they are visible on occasion from about 1/2 way up South Island. They don't occur as often as the Northern Lights nor are they as spectacular.


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## Tozguy (Jul 10, 2020)

Idle talk while we wait for your chuck to soak. When the fellas who live close to pineapple farms show up it really gets weierd.


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## NortonDommi (Jul 11, 2020)

Tozguy said:


> Idle talk while we wait for your chuck to soak. When the fellas who live close to pineapple farms show up it really gets weierd.


Peanut farmers are also a big worry.  I wonder how Chuck is doing?


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## Downunder Bob (Jul 11, 2020)

Living in Adelaide on the south coast of Australia Approx 35 deg south we very rarely get to see the southern lights but I do remember one occasion some years ago, when we were treated to a magnificent display, just after sunset as the sky was darkening. It was every bit as good as any I've seen elsewhere, but it was the only time I've seen them this far north.


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## pandreasen (Jul 30, 2020)

Well, the chuck has been "soaking" in kerosene for over a month total. I did finally get the outer "cone" unscrewed (and scratched up), but it won't come off, and nothing else moves. I asked Jacobs about repair, but was already told they won't do it.
GREAT looking apperweight! Really impressive until it rolls off the desk onto someones toes! Oh well, sometime the bear gets you. Looks like it was just the bears turn.


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## Lo-Fi (Jul 31, 2020)

Hit it harder? Nothing to lose! Could try warming the kero up a little, help it soak out the solid grease? A sealed metal container dumped in a bucket of hot water might do the trick. Even leaving it with the sun beating down on it all day might be enough


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## Masterjuggler (Jul 31, 2020)

Might somehow be rusted inside, in which case you could get some evaporust or distilled white vinegar after brake cleaning the kerosene out of it and let it soak for a few days. I'd probably try evaporust first because it's much more gentle. If you can't take it apart afterward, at least the evaporust leaves a rust-preventative coating, unlike the vinegar which would just rust it from the inside out if left in. I did have to soak an ebay chuck in vinegar to be able to take it apart though, it was frozen shut.


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## westerner (Jul 31, 2020)

Lo-Fi said:


> Nothing to lose!


This is how I roll!
If you cannot coax it into cooperation, then beat it into submission!


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## Downunder Bob (Aug 2, 2020)

If you haven't fixed it, you didn't use a big enough hammer


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