# SBL 9" headstock woes



## Chatter-Knot (Oct 22, 2014)

Hi all - am new to the forum. I just bought a 9" x 48" 1936 SBL model C as a bucket list item - haven't used a metal lathe since high school 45 years ago, but remember it fondly. I have on several occasions over the years wished I had a lathe for some job or other, and now I do. First thing I did was tear it apart to clean it up and repaint it, and I found a moderately scored and galled spindle and headstock bearings (yuk!). I bought a very nice replacement spindle on eBay but am trying to figure out how to clean up the headstock bearing surfaces (no sleeves - just milled iron). I talked to over a dozen local machine shops yesterday and none of them would touch it. I'm hoping some of the collective wisdom out there will rub off and I'll figure out what to do next. Any ideas would be much appreciated! Thanks.


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## lugnard (Oct 22, 2014)

Chances are it's not as bad as it seems. If the original spindle had bits of metal stuck to it you could carefully file them off with a fine file. Don't use emery cloth or the like as it will get imbedded into the soft bearing surface. The headstock bearings probably are fine with some grooves. Just think of them as oil lands!! Some close up pictures would be helpful as well.

I would carefully slide the replacment spindle in without the cone pully and bull gear and see how it spins. If it is tight then further attention is needed. Top oiler or side? My 405 is a top oiler and loves plenty of the stuff. Keep it well lubed and most likely it will be fine but I'm sure others will chime in. Good luck

Harry


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## Halligan142 (Oct 22, 2014)

Run your finger inside each spindle bearing.  If you feel any super high or pointy areas that hang up on your finger very gently stone them smooth.  The spindle rides on a film of oil and never really touches the bearing area once oiled properly.  You can run these lathes with a spindle bearing that looks like swiss cheese and the only noticable side effect is increased oil consumption.  Also make sure your bearing clearance is on the smaller side of the tolerance. Pictures would help in getting a better idea also.


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## GK1918 (Oct 23, 2014)

Machine shops won't touch it?????  I've ran into that with engine cam bearings.  Its the highs not the lows.  Just a cyl. fine stone hone takes care of that, just enough to knock
the highs off.  and I mean fine stone like 000 grade


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## Chatter-Knot (Oct 23, 2014)

My thanks to both of you - will try that and report out!


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## janvanruth (Oct 23, 2014)

As said above just clean up the spindle a bit  and leave the cast iron bearings alone.
Dont put the new spindle in the headstock as things might just get worse because it is not worn in on those bearings.
Just adjust the clearance by taking out the appropriate shims if necessary  and use it and see what it does.
If it doesnt run hot or has too much runout just run it and give it all the oil it wants.

On one of my 9a's the big headstock bearing looks like new, takes no oil but tends to run hot, while the smaller bearing  has some scoring drinks a lot of oil but never gets hot. Its the big one i am worried about not the small one.....


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## Chatter-Knot (Oct 25, 2014)

New spindle is supposed to come today - but am still worried about the bearings.  Here's a pic of the chuck-side bearing after a gentle hand turned honing - still looks pretty
 bad to me...  Also included a shot of the spindle damage.  Thoughts?  Thanks.


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## Hutch (Oct 25, 2014)

If it was me, I would sleeve it. Line bore and make some bearings for it.


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## CoopVA (Oct 25, 2014)

Chatter-Knot said:


> New spindle is supposed to come today - but am still worried about the bearings.  Here's a pic of the chuck-side bearing after a gentle hand turned honing - still looks pretty
> bad to me...  Also included a shot of the spindle damage.  Thoughts?  Thanks.
> 
> 
> ...



That looks like one of mine...  I'm not going to use it, as the other one I have is in good shape.  Halligan and GK have the right idea...


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