# Is lathe milling attachment worth making



## GoceKU (Aug 13, 2017)

I have only a lathe very heavy duty lathe, i've seen couple pictures of lathe milling attachment but don't know is this a useful tool, can i get any accuracy with this attachment ?


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## schor (Aug 13, 2017)

I have a very small lathe, atlas 10" and I had a milling attachment I used quite a few times until I got my mill. On a larger lathe a milling attachment would be even more useful.


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## GoceKU (Aug 13, 2017)

My lathe has some wear, i don't need to do lots of milling, i'll need it most for cutting key ways or milling short slots, will it break milling cutters because of the wear?


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## schor (Aug 13, 2017)

Tighten the gibs and go for it. Wear can be overcome with the right processeses.


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## DaveInMi (Aug 13, 2017)

When I had room only for a Taig lathe in military housing over seas, the milling attachment was all I had room for and I used it.  A dedicated mill works much better if space and finances are available.


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## hman (Aug 13, 2017)

If you want an absolutely inspiring and magnificent example of how useful a milling attachment can be, check out some of Savarin's posts and threads.  Here's the best:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/80mm-long-focal-length-refractor.26212/

... and here's one in which he describes how he made the slide:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/a-vertical-slide-for-a-9x20-lathe.49724/

I just can't say enough about how I admire the kind of work he's been able to do with just his 9x20 lathe and this "attachment."


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## woodchucker (Aug 13, 2017)

GoceKU said:


> My lathe has some wear, i don't need to do lots of milling, i'll need it most for cutting key ways or milling short slots, will it break milling cutters because of the wear?


Perfect use of a milling attachment


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## f350ca (Aug 13, 2017)

I did a lot of work with one before I bought a mill They're great for keyways as you said.

Greg


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## Tozguy (Aug 13, 2017)

On my 12x36 lathe it has been very useful. I recommend a milling attachment.


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## Ulma Doctor (Aug 13, 2017)

i had a milling attachment for my 10" atlas.
my attachment was useful for relatively small work.
a worthy amendment to the arsenal if you don't already have a milling machine 

+1 on Savarin's work, he does top notch work with his set up.
we'd all be proud to have done what he has accomplished.


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## cascao (Aug 14, 2017)

The golden rule when milling in a lathe is to lock the ununsed movements. Good or bad, beautifull or ugly, sometimes doesn't matter if you need the job done. Below an GPS case and mount I've done with a milling attachment. This is my setup:


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## Robert LaLonde (Aug 14, 2017)

> The golden rule when milling in a lathe is to lock the unused movements.



Holds true for milling on a mill too.

One thing that always surprises me is how many people hold the mill in a 3 jaw.  Most 3 jaw chucks really have to much runout for a mill spindle.  If its all you have then... its all you have, but a collet would be best.  Next would be a 4 jaw and dial it in just like you would stock.


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## Charles Spencer (Aug 14, 2017)

GoceKU said:


> I have only a lathe very heavy duty lathe, i've seen couple pictures of lathe milling attachment but don't know is this a useful tool



Well, I think it is better to have some milling capability than no milling capability.  I used a milling attachment for a couple of years until I got a milling machine.  It worked fine for milling t-nuts, cutting keyways and slots, etc.  Of course you have to take it slow but it beats the hell out of filing by hand.

Here's my attachment on an SB 9 milling a t-nut for my quick change tool post:

_Edited to add:_  The cutter is in a collet secured by a drawbar.  You can't see it because of the spindle nose protector.


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## Tozguy (Aug 14, 2017)

Like Bob, I wouldn't use a 3 jaw chuck to hold a milling cutter. This is a MT3 Weldon holder:


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## woodchucker (Aug 14, 2017)

Bob La Londe said:


> Holds true for milling on a mill too.
> 
> One thing that always surprises me is how many people hold the mill in a 3 jaw.  Most 3 jaw chucks really have to much runout for a mill spindle.  If its all you have then... its all you have, but a collet would be best.  Next would be a 4 jaw and dial it in just like you would stock.


but a collet would be best, or an end mill holder


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## GoceKU (Aug 14, 2017)

Is an ER32 collet hold in a 3 jaw chuck better ?


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## Robert LaLonde (Aug 14, 2017)

woochucker said:


> but a collet would be best, or an end mill holder



LOL.  Ok.  Yep.  I agree.


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## Robert LaLonde (Aug 14, 2017)

GoceKU said:


> Is an ER32 collet hold in a 3 jaw chuck better ?



No.  3 jaws are still inherently not perfect.  An ER collet chuck with a taper to match your lathe spindle bore would be pretty good though.


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## tomh (Aug 14, 2017)

Hi
Without going into a long confusing  detail  Go to mrpete222  on youtube and watch his videos on using a milling attachment and how to set it up  using the proper end mill holder and  draw bar assembly. 
This way you will see how it works when using the tooling that was designed for this type of work.  My sheldon lathe had all the attachments for milling on the lathe with it  and it worked very good for what it was designed to do. 
On occasion  if my mill was in use and I needed to cut a slot or mill a simple flat i would do it on the lathe as it is a simple setup. 
Tomh


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## Tozguy (Aug 14, 2017)

GoceKU said:


> I have only a lathe very heavy duty lathe, i've seen couple pictures of lathe milling attachment but don't know is this a useful tool, can i get any accuracy with this attachment ?



One thing that must not be good for accuracy is overhang. My first DIY milling set up was this 



But I felt that there could be less flex and less stress on the cross slide by switching the angle plate to this


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## GoceKU (Aug 14, 2017)

That angle iron seems very thin, my thought is to make it to lock in, in my quick change tool post, i'll get couple of pictures but my tools post it big.


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## Charles Spencer (Aug 14, 2017)

Tozguy said:


> One thing that must not be good for accuracy is overhang.



I thought so too.  Your approach is rather clever.  I like it.  My own idea was to add mass and balance to increase stability.  So I added a large overhang on the back of the attachment.


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## Tozguy (Aug 15, 2017)

GoceKU said:


> That angle iron seems very thin, my thought is to make it to lock in, in my quick change tool post, i'll get couple of pictures but my tools post it big.



The angle iron is .325'' thick at the angle. To hedge against flexibility, the angle (12'' long) is almost the full length of the cross slide. Also, as you can see here in the finished version, there is a rest block to locate the compound when mounting it. It supports the compound during operation such that the bending moment on the angle iron is reduced or maybe eliminated (maybe) )  




This is the angle plate and compound just sitting on the cross slide with no fasteners in place. 




Once the compound was lined up square in both planes using shims under the angle plate, it was bedded with marine epoxy. 




Now it is easy to reinstall it without loosing the alignment.


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## cascao (Aug 15, 2017)

The only time a 3 jaw chuck can be used efficiently for milling is with a fly cutter. (but a four jaw chuck still have more gripping power)


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## Alan H. (Aug 15, 2017)

Not to trying to be a naysayer but most every time I ever tried to build a tool from scratch I ended up spending way more money than I imagined.   To make matter worse, they generally ended up with marginal capability as well.    

Make sure that your expenditure to get you there is not going to be a big percentage of what you could get a small mill for.    A benchtop mill will likely far exceed what you will achieve with a gizmo on a lathe.


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## GoceKU (Aug 15, 2017)

I appreciate the advice Alen, i'm in macedonia, here prices are very different and availability of machines is not good, i've recently bought an old shaper head with 2 axes, that i plan to modify in an milling attachment.


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## epanzella (Aug 15, 2017)

I built my milling attachment from a purchased angle plate and my existing compound rest. An attachment will never be a milling machine but I've built lots of parts on mine. I mounted a 3/4 steel plate on my compound that has a field of 3/8x16 holes. I can clamp just about anything including a milling vice for keyways and such. I milled a slot in the bottom of the plate and pressed in some 3/8 key stock. When mounting the vice I just slide it down on top of the keystock "curb" and it's already lined up.  Time spent going from turning to milling is the biggest downside for me.


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## GoceKU (Aug 15, 2017)

Here is what i have in mind, to modify this head, you can see i has ways in two directions, if i had a mill this will be a couple of hours work but using only hand tools and a lathe it will take some planning.


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## Ulma Doctor (Aug 15, 2017)

i look forward to see what you come up with!


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## GoceKU (Aug 16, 2017)

I hate beginning a new project before i finish the last, but having the ability to mill slots on the lathe will help me finish that project, so i took this head apart, and SilverBullet was correct is from an wood copy lathe, the inside was full of wood chips and not an single metal chip, it had a spring pushing from the bottom against the cam, the threads are M16x2 standard tread, so i may make a new screw to eliminate the cam, the dave tails are not worn, it's at an angle so its not going to be easy, i need 20mm to make the slot for may tool post and i only have it at the bottom, i need to add material upstream, i need to do a spark test to see is it cast steel or cast iron if i can weld it, it will be much easier, more to come.


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## f350ca (Aug 16, 2017)

Like your work bench, from the surface up it looks just like mine.

Greg


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## GoceKU (Aug 16, 2017)

This workbench is in my big garage, and with the amount of work in short time i do is hard to keep it clean, but here are pictures when i build it.


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## GoceKU (Sep 2, 2017)

Today i had some time so i continued on this project, i totally abused my 4" angle grinder by cutting the excess material but i was successful also i'm confident it is steel and i can weld to it, more to come.


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## AlFiallos (Sep 3, 2017)

GoceKU said:


> I have only a lathe very heavy duty lathe, i've seen couple pictures of lathe milling attachment but don't know is this a useful tool, can i get any accuracy with this attachment ?


Hi.  For what it's worth, I have a Harbor Freight 8x12 mini-lathe.  I needed to cut key ways in a powered wheelchair axel shaft.  My homemade milling attachement worked to perfection.  I believe that you can get acceptalbe results milling with your lathe.  Just my experience.


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## GoceKU (Sep 4, 2017)

I've decided to try it, there no going back now, only problem is i'm pretty busy so progress on this project will be slow.


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## rock_breaker (Sep 5, 2017)

I inherited a milling attachment for my Clausing MK3 and have used it on many  occasions. Works really well to make hexagon shapes. Used keyway cutters as cutting tools. It led to my acquiring a mill drill, and never got into making complex shapes. Lite cuts and plan your project should lead to an excellent tool. 
Have a good day
Ray

P. S. If made accurately you should get acceptable results.


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## GoceKU (Sep 6, 2017)

Ray, i appreciate the advice, tell me which cutters are you using and how are you holding them ?


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## epanzella (Sep 6, 2017)

I make mild steel holders for my most used end mills. The setscrew locks onto the endmill flat and the soft steel allows me to use a 3 or 4 jaw chuck to hold them.


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## q20v (Sep 6, 2017)

My setup uses 5C collets to hold the end mill (in conjunction with a draw bar). Holding small stock in the QCTP works well. I have a milling attachment but haven't used it yet.

Roughing end mill with some 1/2" brass. Just testing out the new setup.



3/4" 4-flute end mill for milling little flats on some replica valve spindles I'm working on.



Using the QCTP was ideal for this application because I could quickly pull the tool holder and bring it to the work bench, reset the work piece in a new orientation, drop it back on the tool post and mill the next flat. I had 80 flats to machine


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## GoceKU (Sep 6, 2017)

Two very different solutions of holding end mills in a lathe i like the collets solution better but knowing my spindle has an morse 6 taper, i won't be able to found an collet holder, and making one takes lots of time and effort, plus my lathe is very close to the wall and i'll have to install the draw bar from outside mu garage thru the hole in the wall.


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## British Steel (Sep 6, 2017)

Just a suggestion for those milling (as I did before the mill came along) with a slide on an angle plate: Bring the tailstock up behind as additional support, it'll make it surprisingly more rigid and give a way better surface finish!

Dave H. (the other one)


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## HomeMetalMan (Sep 8, 2017)

I think GoceKU that you may be reassured regarding the abilities of a lathe mounted milling head, especially on the larger lathe you have, by viewing my web pages showing a quite large stationary steam engine being made using my milling head on a Myford lathe. This can be seen at http://www.homews.co.uk/page177.html

Details for making the milling head are at http://www.homews.co.uk/page158.html which also has a link on that page to a video I made showing the milling head being used.
Harold


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## GoceKU (Sep 10, 2017)

I need to buy couple of end mill cutters, in the pictures i've seen all are 4 flute cutters, is there a reason for this or could i use 2 flute, 6 flute or even a shell mill cutter ?


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## GoceKU (Sep 10, 2017)

In the meanwhile i had this insert cutter head, and decided to make a shank for it, started with 45 mm peace of 4150 which had some surface rust, first i made a clean up cut than i cut down to the cutter size and then down to the 16 mm boss for the cuter, than i drilled and threaded it for M8, than i cut it off, i need to drill two 8 mm holes and install two pins to locate the cutter.


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## GoceKU (Sep 13, 2017)

Today i decided to chuck up a end mill that i bought recently and try milling steel in the tool holder, i was afraid of chatter, but it all went smooth, first cut was 0,3 mm, second cut was 0,5 mm and last cut was 1 mm depth, that is an 14 mm two flute end mill and run it at 400 rpm and hand feed it i like the results, this give me motivation to keep going.


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## benmychree (Sep 13, 2017)

q20v said:


> My setup uses 5C collets to hold the end mill (in conjunction with a draw bar). Holding small stock in the QCTP works well. I have a milling attachment but haven't used it yet.
> 
> Roughing end mill with some 1/2" brass. Just testing out the new setup.
> View attachment 241137
> ...


You should make a "thread protector" for the spindle nose, they are also used to eject the taper/collet adaptor from the spindle, drill a couple of opposite holes on the OD, and use a pin spanner to screw it off which pulls the taper adaptor out of the spindle.  One came with my 19" Regal Leblond and I made one for my 9" Monarch: it is easier to remove the adaptor than using a knockout bar from the end and does no (possible) damage to the adaptor.


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## rock_breaker (Sep 15, 2017)

Nice going GoceKU !
IMHO keeping the machine running as smoothly as possible is very important. Several methods of work holding have been put forth, again I think stability is key. My keyway cutters are about .75 inches in diameter with six 1/8" wide cutting edges on them. The keyway cutters were held in the lathe chuck with the spindle driven in back-gear.
The round work piece (it was short) held in the milling attachment parallel to the ways. With the work lowered enough to provide the amount to be removed I was able to rotate the whole work holding assembly 60`   then slowly cut the flats with the cross feed.
There was a recent article in the Home Shop Machinist Magazine about calculating proper sizes of round stock to get flats for typical wrench sizes. 
Enjoy your machine work.
Ray


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## q20v (Sep 27, 2017)

> You should make a "thread protector" for the spindle nose, they are also used to eject the taper/collet adaptor from the spindle, drill a couple of opposite holes on the OD, and use a pin spanner to screw it off which pulls the taper adaptor out of the spindle. One came with my 19" Regal Leblond and I made one for my 9" Monarch: it is easier to remove the adaptor than using a knockout bar from the end and does no (possible) damage to the adaptor.



Great idea, thanks! I've been using a knockout bar to remove the adaptor but don't like doing it that way.


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