# Some general lathe  questions and some specific ones on a Clausing 5914 lathe



## Alcap (Jan 5, 2020)

I picked up a Clausing 5914 lathe , I've read some things about it , from the internet brochure that model has 2 HP 3 phase motor , this one supposed to have 240v single , I'm going from the fellow who bought it to resell so that needs to be one of the first things to find out that might be a big problem .  First question of many is ,,,. It didn't come with a tailstock just a turret set-up . I would think it should be repeatable so one opening could  be used as a center ?  The brochure  also said it has a headstock internal taper of 4 1/2  MT . That seems to be odd ?  Right now it doesn't have a chuck on it but some kind of an adapter that I thought was for a collet set-up but I'm hoping it's to adapt to a 3MT so I could standard ( to my thinking " ) centers and such . The one faceplate has some kind of shop made holding clamps . Didn't get any dogs to go with them .  It came with a 3 jaw chuck but no extra chuck jaws  , I'll have to look if the jaws are bolted on if not there's going to be another issue .


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## mmcmdl (Jan 5, 2020)

You are correct on the MT 4 1/2 spindle . There is an adapter MT-4 1/2 to MT3 . Spindle is a L00 mount . You could use a center in the turret , you may lose clearance though . Does the turret have a locking mechanism ?  L00 tooling is available but seems to sell quickly .

I wouldn't be concerned about the MT 3 taper in the spindle , just turn up a center in your 3 jaw and be done with it .


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## Alcap (Jan 6, 2020)

The 3 jaw chuck had reversible jaws and 3 wires coming from the conduit are green , red and white so from what people tell me the seller was correct that it's 240v single phase .


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## Alcap (Jan 7, 2020)

What would be the correct way to remove the spindle adapter on the headstock ?  I'm thinking a round wooden dowel from the backside ?  I haven't checked but hope it's to bring the headstock's 4 1/2 MT to 3MT .


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## Rata222 (Jan 7, 2020)

Alcap said:


> What would be the correct way to remove the spindle adapter on the headstock ?  I'm thinking a round wooden dowel from the backside ?  I haven't checked but hope it's to bring the headstock's 4 1/2 MT to 3MT .



Can you post a picture? If the adapter you are trying to remove can be seen projecting from the spindle - it may be a 5C  collet adapter - used with a  collet closer.  Usually there is also a thread protector covering the threads held on by the large nut (the one used to attached the L00 chuck).  When you unscrew the nut to remove the thread protector- it pushes the protector out and will eject the collet adapter.  At least that is how mine works.
Jim


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## Alcap (Jan 7, 2020)

I just went out and took some pictures and I think your right about a 5C collet adapter Might not see in the picture but there’s a small key sticking inside


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## Alcap (Jan 7, 2020)

I see they make a 5C to ER32  adapter   I have already some ER32 collets , I would need to figure out how to that adapter to the one that's on the lathe , maybe too many adapters ?


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## matthewsx (Jan 7, 2020)

You will probably be better off getting some 5C collets, putting an adapter into an adapter is just asking for runout IMHO....

JOhn


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## Rata222 (Jan 7, 2020)

Alcap said:


> I just went out and took some pictures and I think your right about a 5C collet adapter Might not see in the picture but there’s a small key sticking inside


Yes - That looks like a collet adapter.  Since there is no spindle protector to help eject it out - you could maybe rig up a puller (like an internal bearing
puller?)  I personally would try a few light taps to with an aluminum rod from the back first.  But I would not risk hitting it very hard to damage the bearings or head casting.


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## Alcap (Jan 8, 2020)

I think I've seen where someone made a 5c draw bar ( maybe " closer " is correct ? )  , might be a nice project for me .  I wonder if a faceplate ( drive plate ? ) could be put on , and a center installed in a 5c collet ?  That would save me from trying to find a 4 1/2MT to 3MT adapter ,


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## Alcap (Jan 8, 2020)

I did a search about an adapter and someone here said Grizzly sells them so I ordered the 4 1/2 to 3MT adapter and a few other things


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## machPete99 (Jan 8, 2020)

Concur with Rata222 that it is likely the 5c collet adapter and it can be tapped out with a rod from behind.

You should double check on the actual installed motor as 5914 originally came with 2HP 3 phase.

The native spindle taper is often referred to as 4.5MT but this is not well standardized so you need to be cautious with replacement adapters. Grizzly sells a 4.5MT/3MT adapter but the outer taper is not the same and you will need to recut it to fit, a tricky operation.  Although I have the (recut) adapter I find myself using a home-made center held in a chuck and touched up after mounting to ensure zero runout.

I also have the 5c adapter and quick release mechanism but I do not have any 5c collets and have not used it. I do have an ER32 collet chuck and collet set which I find quite useful for smaller work. This is mounted on an L00 backplate further machined to fit the chuck. I have done similar with an 8" 4J chuck and was lucky enough to find a decent native 3J L00 chuck. You will need to decide on your priorities here but may likely need to do something similar. The 3J that came with my lathe was junk.

EDIT:
There was some discussion on the "IO" group about parting out a couple of 59XX lathes, maybe you could get a tailstock from someone there. Be prepared for some fitting/alignment as I thought these were custom bored to a given lathe bed.

See:





						clausing-lathe-and-mill@groups.io | Topics
					






					groups.io


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## mmcmdl (Jan 8, 2020)

machPete99 said:


> Although I have the (recut) adapter I find myself using a home-made center held in a chuck and touched up after mounting to ensure zero runout.





mmcmdl said:


> I wouldn't be concerned about the MT 3 taper in the spindle , just turn up a center in your 3 jaw and be done with it .



Not sure why you're so concerned with the MT4 1/2 to 3 .


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## machPete99 (Jan 8, 2020)

mmcmdl said:


> Not sure why you're so concerned with the MT4 1/2 to 3 .



The 4.5MT/3MT sleeve is the old school way to mount a 3MT center for doing between center turning. You typically also need a dog plate or face plate and dogs. Like I said, you can get by just fine using a chuck and home made center.


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## mmcmdl (Jan 8, 2020)

Yep , that's what I told him .


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## chips&more (Jan 8, 2020)

Yep, I’m with you. I have that adapter somewhere??? Never ever needed it. I also can’t remember the last time I turned between centers??? But, everybody has different projects in there Hobby Shop, so… And your pics show an adaptor installed in the nose of the headstock spindle. And that is probably a “L00” headstock spindle nose.


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## Alcap (Jan 8, 2020)

The adapter came out easier then I thought , just stuck a piece of aluminum tube and a slight tap with a hammer and popped off .  machpete99 you said the adapter that I just ordered from Grizzly will need to be machined to fit ?  That stinks !


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## Tim9 (Jan 8, 2020)

machPete99 said:


> Concur with Rata222 that it is likely the 5c collet adapter and it can be tapped out with a rod from behind.
> 
> You should double check on the actual installed motor as 5914 originally came with 2HP 3 phase.
> 
> ...








						Clausing 5900 Lathes - technical details
					

Lathes made by the Clausing Comoany in the USA and branded Fortis and Broadway in the UK



					www.lathes.co.uk
				



Clausing 5900 series models


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## machPete99 (Jan 9, 2020)

The 5900 series manuals and brochures are available in the "files" section of the groups.io site, you will probably want to join so you can access them:





						Log In
					






					groups.io


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## machPete99 (Jan 9, 2020)

On the Grizzly 4.5MT/3MT sleeve try putting some bluing/dykem on it and move it around in the spindle. Likely it only touches on the largest diameter, at least that is what I found. There is enough meat on there to recut it, just have to be careful you don't go too far (and leave opportunity to recheck/recut). You need a way to chuck it too which means having a straight/MT3 adapter or test bar.


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## Tim9 (Jan 10, 2020)

FWIW.... Grizzly sells that adapter. That’s where I got mine from. But it still cost me around 75.00 from Grizzly compared to the average of 125.00 for the ones listed on eBay.
If I knew then what I know now... I would have passed on the adapter. I really haven’t had the need for it and for many operations one can get by their need for mounting between dead centers by just mounting a round rod in their three jaw chuck and then turning a 60 degree point on the round rod.
   Anyway.... if you really need...let me know and I can probably find the part number for the Grizzly adapter.
   Also...as others mentioned.... Groups.io Clausing is a great resource for everything Clausing. The Burke Machine tool Groups.io is great too.


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## Alcap (Jan 10, 2020)

Tim9 , I have the adapter ordered and should be coming soon , others mentioned just chucking a center in the 3 jaw . I guess between getting old and not doing this sort of work for 40 years I'm finding I'm a little forgetful . When I was in HS taking Machine Shop at the votech they had a paid position 2-4 nights a week handing out tools form the tool crib for the adult night class . I learned a lot from that teacher . He had his students do all their between center work using a 3 jaw and center in it  . I wish I could remember everything lol . I'm thinking about mounting the faceplate and on the inside it's tapered to the  front edge . If I take a few cuts to have internal diameter that has a width of say 1/8" so I could put a locating sleeves on to register different fixtures , 4 jaw chuck ect that might be anther project .


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## Rata222 (Jan 10, 2020)

Alcap said:


> others mentioned just chucking a center in the 3 jaw .



Alcap... I believe what they are saying is put a piece of round bar in the 3 jaw  and turn a 60°  point - then you know it runs true with your spindle.
 And your not alone... I am the age I have to acknowledge that  I forget a LOT these days also.   Funny... years ago, as my dad got older - he would ask me how to do something-and  I remember thinking that it was odd because he was the one that taught me how to do it.
Getting older - but having Fun!


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## machPete99 (Jan 10, 2020)

Make yourself something like the pic below. No critical dimensions other than the 60* included angle.
The step in in the diameter keeps it from moving into the chuck in use.
Ideally you should use something durable like 4140-PH but can be whatever is on hand.
Stick it in any chuck and touch up the angle so it is perfectly concentric and you are ready to rock.


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## macardoso (Jan 10, 2020)

A single phase motor on a lathe will usually have 5 wires coming from it (1 is ground). This allows you to wire it to reversing contactors. If you truly have a single phase non-reversible motor, it should be good to get you started, but you should plan on the expense of replacing it in the future. Not being able to reverse the lathe is limiting IMO. 

Tailstock turret probably isn't a bad thing, and perhaps it could be valuable in its own right if you ever need to do repetitive work like making bushings. Owners may still have the original tailstock stashed somewhere.

If you can post pictures we might be able to provide a little more insight on the lathe.


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## Alcap (Jan 10, 2020)

The fellow I bought it from bought it from a machine shop and he said it didn’t come with a tail stock The three wires I saw where sticking out of metal conduit guessing from a junction box


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## Alcap (Jan 12, 2020)

Got the lathe where I think it’s best Owners manual said to use the special feet under the adjusting screws but I didn’t get them Does anyone know what I should use ?


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## Alcap (Jan 12, 2020)

The temperatures warmed up the whole garage is sweating my hand tools in my boxes are soaked . On the plus side I mopped the floor to get the water off so it's looking cleaner then before .


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## mmcmdl (Jan 12, 2020)

67 down here right now . Floors were soaked in here at work and I'm afraid to see what I find in the garage in a few hours . I don't think I have feet other than the leveling bolts but I'll check when I get home . You could just machine up some aluminum "feet" . You planning on lagging it down ?


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## Alcap (Jan 12, 2020)

In the owners manual it said it didn't need to be mounted so I'll try it without first The leveling feet are hollow so a stud or lag can go through once it's leveled . Another item I'll see if I can borrow , a machinist level . Hope to start cleaning it up and checking the drive system this week .


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## Timwalker (Jan 12, 2020)

Alcap said:


> Got the lathe where I think it’s best Owners manual said to use the special feet under the adjusting screws but I didn’t get them Does anyone know what I should use ?



Mine came with the pads for leveling (well 3 and a half of them anyway).  They are just some steel plate (3/16 I think) with a hole in it to capture the reduced end of the leveling bolts (did you get these?).  Attached to the underside of the steel plate is some hard rubber (maybe fiber reinforced?).  I was missing one of the rubber pieces so I just went ahead and replaced them all with some new stuff (not reinforced, but has held up ok for the past few months of use).


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## Alcap (Jan 12, 2020)

Thanks Timwalker !  I did get the screws but no pads .  I'll remove one screw to see how big a locating hole should did the hole go through the plate and reset on the shoulder of the screw ?


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## Timwalker (Jan 12, 2020)

Alcap said:


> Thanks Timwalker !  I did get the screws but no pads .  I'll remove one screw to see how big a locating hole should did the hole go through the plate and reset on the shoulder of the screw ?



Yes, just a simple through hole in the steel plate.  I don't remember there being a hole in the original rubber, and didn't have any issue with the new ones being solid.


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## Alcap (Jan 12, 2020)

Spent a little time cleaning it and the turret before putting it on


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## Alcap (Jan 13, 2020)

This might amuse some , after cleaning the top side I unbolted the side cover   was spinning Vari-drive by hand and moved the handle on the front thinking it was a mechanical  Forward/Neutral/Reverse , kept spinning the chuck the same direction . Crap , the transmission is stuck in Forward , then it dawned on me the that lever I was moving ran a shaft to the electrical motor control switch


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## Alcap (Jan 13, 2020)

Here’s one of the leveling adjusters it looks like it rode on the bottom edge Not sure then what size hole to make on the pad Also does anyone recognize this other item it was in the lathe drawer


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## macardoso (Jan 13, 2020)

Machine leveling feet are ideal here, and will help dampen vibrations. They're not the cheapest, but Grizzly Industrial had the best prices last time I looked.









						Leveling Feet - 3" 1600 lb. Capacity at Grizzly.com
					

For the ultimate in heavy machine stabilization, these mounts feature easy setting, fast leveling, and vibration and noise reduction. Large rubber foot pads distribute weight evenly and long mounting studs provide a wide range of leveling adjustment. Sold each. 1600 lb. capacity. Stud size...




					www.grizzly.com
				




When I put feet like this on my lathe, I had to put spreader bars to widen the footprint of the lathe. It was so top heavy.


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## machPete99 (Jan 13, 2020)

See pics for original leveling foot configuration and usage.
The nose of the adjusting screw goes through a metal plate and is retained by a circlip.
There is a rubber pad on the bottom of the plate, with a hole in the middle to clear the adjusting screw.
The adjuster screw has a bore through it to permit attaching the lathe to the floor.
These are from the manual that you can get on groups.io.


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## Alcap (Jan 13, 2020)

machPete  I saw the pictures you posted in a manual but couldn't understand but your explanation is great . From looking at just this adjuster I took off   it was sitting right on the lower edge instead of where it's supposed to


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## Alcap (Jan 14, 2020)

I found some mounting pads at work from a obsolete equipment so I'll try making my own . If they come out OK I'll level it with a level I have and a friend who works in a machine shop said he would come over with a accurate one to dial it in .


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## machPete99 (Jan 14, 2020)

The steel part of the original leveling pad is 2.5" square by 0.25" thick.
The rubber layer under that is about 0.50" thick, sale outer dimensions.
Hopefully you have the screw pieces, otherwise may need to make some up.
These are really needed to get the lathe properly leveled out.
I (and the PO) have never mounted it to the floor, don't see that as being mandatory.

mp


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## Alcap (Jan 15, 2020)

Only spent a few minutes last night checking this out , it does have a single phase  1 1/2 HP motor , the bracket that the clutch/brake handle rides back and forth on a square shaft is worn pretty good , it hits the chip tray when in the " Brake " position , guessing there's an adjustment but the slop in the bracket is way too much , I think I'll remove it , braze and just file it for a better fit . So far I'm happy with my buy , that might good to poop quick  if there's driveline and bearing issues


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## Alcap (Jan 18, 2020)

Since my lathe didn't come with a tailstock . Does anyone know how accurate the turret will be ,or should be , as far as being centered each time it's indexed ?   Could a morse taper adapter be made so a center installed , though there would still be an issue with locking the turret the correct depth I think


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## mmcmdl (Jan 18, 2020)

You may have to shim the turret but it could be done . Is it the correct height ?


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## Alcap (Jan 18, 2020)

Haven't checked but was more concerned if once the turret was all adjusted to being centered to the headstock will it stay the way after indexing a few times ?


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## mmcmdl (Jan 18, 2020)

It should stay centered once centered .


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## mmcmdl (Jan 18, 2020)

We often had to use cigarette pack plastic shimming the turrets on the Hardinge lathes . If I remember , it's .001 thick .


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## Alcap (Jan 27, 2020)

I think I lost a post or two this past week , anyway . Powered up the lathe on 110v , everything seems to work , I'll be switching it over to 220V but wanted to make  sure it functioned first . I see the vari-drive belt is very stiff and memory so that needs  to be changed , I'm sure the way those pulleys moved around is way more then a new belt would . Didn't notice until the other day that the are no dials on the carriage my little lathe does but I can't remember if the ones I used years ago did  or not !


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## machPete99 (Jan 27, 2020)

Oil info (repost)...

Oils (per cross reference on originals)
Headstock: Mobil DTE 24 (some recommend  DTE25 for quieter running, I plan to change over to DTE25...)
Carriage: Mobil DTE 26
Ways, open gears: Mobil Vactra #2
	

		
			
		

		
	





There is no "dial" for carriage movement. You will want to machine yourself a clamp block for a dial indicator, or see recent post on cheap DRO.
The clamp block milling is slightly tricky due to clausings 70 degree vees on the bed.


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## Alcap (Jan 28, 2020)

I want to replace the vari-drive belt before I run it any longer , it's very stiff ( ok it's 40*f in the garage and I'm stiff too ) and has a memory so it's making the pulleys move around more then I think they should . I see Gates belt 1930V400 listed for the 5900 series , prices for no name about half but is there a good-better- best as far as how well they work ?  I'm getting excited , pretty soon will be able to try it out


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## machPete99 (Jan 28, 2020)

Gates are usually good belts. I don't have the vari (reeves) drive anymore so cannot comment on belt requirements:








						Clausing 5914 VFD
					

I did this a while back, but figured I'd post the info for others that might be interested.  This setup completely replaces the original Reeves drive and countershaft arrangement. The motor is the original Doerr 2HP 3PH unit. I am using the stock cogged belt size/length, but have fitted the...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


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## mmcmdl (Jan 28, 2020)

I may have an extra stop for the 5900 series , gotta look around . I opted for a travel dial instead of a DRO .


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## Alcap (Jan 28, 2020)

Mine came with some kind of a rotary style stop Maybe I can add an indicator like you have Would someone use measuring rods between the stops and carriage? I bought some tools from my wife’s uncle and there were 1/4” rods 6-11” which I thought were mic standards but he said something about measuring rods and I just agreed with him because I had no idea what he was talking about lol


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## machPete99 (Jan 28, 2020)

That "turret stop" would get used in conjunction wiht the turret tailstock, index both at same time, so correct stop is in play for given operation.


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## Alcap (Feb 10, 2020)

The lathe is rewired now for 220v , glad I had to because some of the original wires going to the motor were a cloth covered , and the insulation was degrading too . Installed a new Vari-drive belt and I believe the motor should be closer to the countershaft , ( doesn't ride high enough on the top pulley when in slowest speed . The manual says that the motor bracket is doweled and bolted but haven't tried to verify . If it is how would it be adjusted other then shimming the motor up ?


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## SLK001 (Feb 10, 2020)

Alcap said:


> What would be the correct way to remove the spindle adapter on the headstock ?  I'm thinking a round wooden dowel from the backside ?  I haven't checked but hope it's to bring the headstock's 4 1/2 MT to 3MT .



What's in the spindle is a 5C adapter.  To knock it out (it's just the taper that's holding it in), the wooden dowel would work (get an oak, or some other hardwood dowel), of you can use what's called a "knock-out bar".  On my lathe, my KO bar is a steel shaft with a head made of brass.  You just slide it in the end of the spindle and use the momentum to knock out the adapter.  The force required is roughly equal to the force required to knock out a center in the tail stock.


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## Alcap (Feb 19, 2020)

Making a little headway ,  after making  the spacers and plates I leveled it with a supposedly good level , I'll use it a little and in a few weeks have a friend come over with a machinist level to get it correct .  Next I'm taking the 3 jaw apart for cleaning , it will only move a little before binding up I'm guessing chips inside causing the issue , I have the chuck on the bench , it is the type that bolts through the face with 3  3/8" allen bolts into a backplate , its stuck tight so installed longer bolts with the back plate up , tried tapping through the spindle hole on a very small area of the chuck with a brass punch , not making too good , I'll try making a driver to catch the little lip that's showing . I'll need to figure out a way to lock the turret  out when I want to put a center in , Not sure how much it would take , could just a small bungee or weight on the on of the turret handles be enough ?


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## Alcap (Feb 22, 2020)

The chuck got cleaned out today but now I have another problem , when I locked the spindle to tighten the chuck by turn the knob counterclockwise to engage backgear now I can't return to direct drive . I tried rocking the spindle back and forth , spun the spindle around a few turns in each direction, the backgear/direct pin goes in and out but just can't turn the knob !  I tried posting this question on the Yahoo Clausing group site but it hasn't been posted because it's my first post I think ,                                                                                                                                                                        Edit:  Problem found , apparently there's a " Backgear/Direct  Lockout"  safety feature and the motor direction lever  which goes through the head to the drum switch behind the headstock  has some type of detent or something even though the motor wasn't on the direction lever was slightly towards REVERSE and once I move it straight up the backgear knob moved very easily


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## Tim9 (Feb 23, 2020)

Pull the cover off and pump oil in all the lubrication points. You can lubricate them through the access points on the shown chart.


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## Tim9 (Feb 23, 2020)

Forgot to add that once you lube it up, turn the sliding gear by  hand. That’s that knurled rod about 1-1/2” in diameter which also has an oil lube point right non the front of it. It can’t be seen on that pic above but it’s right below the hand wheel on the spindle. I find that by turning that sliding gear, the back gear knob and the change gears are easily set.
And.... I see you’ve got it. Anyway I obviously thought you had a different issue. That said....turning the sliding gear is what I have found makes my old Clausing easier to engage the gears when switching modes.


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## Alcap (Mar 29, 2020)

I had to figure out how to lock the turret , this might not be the best choice but drilled and tapped a 5/16-18 hole to push against the gibb , it seems like it will work . If anyone knows what that tool holder on the right would be used for ?


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## Seedtick (Mar 29, 2020)

The tool on the right is just a drill/reamer holder that you can align to the center of the spindle. You can flip the top clamp over to increase the capacity of the holder.
Greg


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## Alcap (Apr 1, 2020)

I had a piece of  1 1/4" plate steel that was band sawed into something like a hexagon .Mostly for practice and to have something for a future project .  There's quite a bit of backlash in the crosslide  would that cause the handwheel to back off even on .030 cuts ?  On my little lathe there's a set-screw to lock the crosslide but not on the Clausing  .  I'm thinking maybe drill the crosslide and tap it like I did with the turret  Any other suggestions ?


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## machPete99 (Apr 1, 2020)

Some of the "backlash" may just be play in the thrust bearing behind the handle. Loosen the allen set screw on the collar behind the handle and tighten the handle retaining nut to remove any play (but not too tight), then tighten the set screw back up.


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## Alcap (Apr 1, 2020)

This lathe has taper gibs is there any harm doing what I did to the turret ?


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## machPete99 (Apr 1, 2020)

I am not sure if I would do that to my lathe, but my Rockwell mill has tapered gibs with knobs for locking that push up against the gibs. On the Rockwell there is a short piece of rod in front of the screw that is faced at the same angle as the gib so it applies somewhat  even pressure and does not rotate into the gib.

You could also just screw the tapered gib in tighter. (and Loosen a bit if using it).


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## Alcap (Apr 1, 2020)

Anyone know what this is ?      https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Clausin...163741308826?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10


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## mmcmdl (Oct 29, 2021)

That's a split nut scroll assembly for the apron Alcap . What its used for ?  I still have the 5917 and am tooling it up , so still following all 5900 posts .


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