# Just started reconditioning a pretty decent 101.07301 have some questions for the experienced!



## makeparts (Dec 11, 2019)

This 101.07301 looks to be in pretty good shape (Serial No.: 6L 025657).  The gears/threads throughout look to be pretty good, but there are some small chips out of a couple pulley walls on the M6-79 Pulley and Gear with Bushings on the spindle, and a chip out of the M6-80 pulley on the countershaft hanger assembly.  I think these chips are small enough that I could live with these while I get it running, and then replace them later.

I may have a franken-lathe, as it appears the Back Gear Assembly is a 2 collar M6-243X, but it may have been missing the M6-255 washer.  Also, the Spindle Assembly looks like a 1 roller bearing & bushings spindle, even though everything I see shows 2 roller bearings in all the documentation.  Am I on crazy pills here?

The lathe came to me almost fully disassembled, with parts separated into bags. The exception being the headstock:  the spindle & back gears were still installed, and seemed to move pretty well, fairly smoothly.  I have disassembled this, and put into baggies to manage it all, post a soaking in PB Blaster.

I think it's fairly complete, but I shall find out soon.

Again, the Back Gear Assembly looks like the 243X version with TWO M6-253 collars, but did not have the M6-255 washer...seems like it had the space for that washer...

Parts for Countershaft I might like to replace during reconditioning:
M6-109
L2-682 Collar

Parts for Backgear Assembly I might like to replace during reconditioning:
M6-249 Bushings
M6-253 Collars
M6-255 Washer (or at least share what the specs/material is, for this?) This assembly did not have this washer installed when I disassembled it, and put into bags for inventory management.

Spindle Assembly
M6-71 Dust Covers (or is this a generally available item for that bearing?)
M6-72 Dust Covers (or is this a generally available item for that bearing?)
M6-81B Bearing
M6-82B Bearing
M6-258 Bushing
M6-89 Spacer

I might be able to get away with just a full re-assembly, to get it moving again.  What do you all think?
Are these parts available from Clausing, or a 3rd party?  I sent a note to them asking about availability, but thought I would engage with you all as well.

I soaked everything in PB Blaster, and it all looks pretty good, the exception being the one bearing off the spindle seems rough to spin now - that maybe a function of the PB Blaster breaking down the lubrication in the bearing.

The machine is at a siblings, so I will get some pictures later this week and post them, but I really don't remember seeing 2 bearings on the Spindle Assembly, so I am freaked out a little, as Im  clearly losing it, or it isn't a configuration I have the manuals for...

Is there a trick to removing/replacing the bushings in the pulleys/gears, castings?

any other thoughts or recommendations?

thanks in advance.  Im looking forward to the community...


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## wa5cab (Dec 11, 2019)

makeparts,

If your lathe is in fact a 101.07301, then you probably do not have a Frankenlathe.  You are looking at the wrong parts list.  The 101.07301 has two sintered bronze bushings plus a ball thrust bearing on the spindle.  The spindle and headstock casting are different from those on the Atlas 618 and the later 101.21400 that replaced the 07301 in 1957.  The only difference between those latter two after 1957 is the badge and maybe the paint color.  They do both have most of the parts that you list as needed to replace but the 101.07301 doesn't have at least some of them.

Most of the parts are the same between the sleeve bearing and roller bearing models.  The main things that aren't are the countershaft and the spindle assembly and headstock casting.  But some of the parts on both assemblies are the same.

The exact configuration of the countershaft pulley and back gear sub-assemblies varied somewhat over the years, with some cases of the as-found lathes not having exactly what the parts list called for.

You will find one or two versions of the 101.07301 manuals in the Atlas and Craftsman area in Downloads.  Read the instructions for use that you will find up above in the Sticky area before trying to access Downloads.  

Unfortunately, Atlas never did an exploded view parts list for the sleeve bearing machines.


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## makeparts (Dec 11, 2019)

wa5cab said:


> makeparts,
> 
> If your lathe is in fact a 101.07301, then you probably do not have a Frankenlathe.  You are looking at the wrong parts list.  The 101.07301 has two sintered bronze bushings plus a ball thrust bearing on the spindle.  The spindle and headstock casting are different from those on the Atlas 618 and the later 101.21400 that replaced the 07301 in 1957.  The only difference between those latter two after 1957 is the badge and maybe the paint color.  They do both have most of the parts that you list as needed to replace but the 101.07301 doesn't have at least some of them.
> 
> ...


will do thanks wa5cab
I'll post some pics of the headstock items as I had them separated into bags... I had some pics on a tablet during disassembly, but it appears that they were deleted by either me or another user...hopefully I can figure that out with the correct manuals.


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## wa5cab (Dec 12, 2019)

A photo of the headstock casting alone will tell whether it has Timken or sleeve bearings without even looking at the bearings.  The 101.07301 has a single fillister head screw in front of each bearing.  And a slot cut into the front of each bearing cap that the screw can close it up a few thousandths.  Anyone with a 101.07301 should also get a copy of the 1950 Atlas 618 manual for parts identification and location other than ofthe spindle bearings, spindle, thrust bearing and countershaft bracket.  All 101.07301's originally came with the 6" Type 2 countershaft whereas all but the early 618's and all 101.21400's have the Type 3.  The pulley assembly is the same but the countershaft bracket of the Type 2 is much shorter that on the Type 3 and the pulley hanger hangs down instead of sticking up as it did or does on the type 2.


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## makeparts (Dec 12, 2019)

Hey I really appreciate you responding...
here are some pics I was able to get last night.  It is a 07301, and the headstock has the fillister screws in front of the oilers.


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## makeparts (Dec 12, 2019)

here's what came off the spindle.  spindle was a little beat up...


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## makeparts (Dec 12, 2019)

that thrust bearing is a Nice 5774.  Anybody have a current quality replacement?  should I go to RBC?
small ding in the spindle gear that drives the change gears, and the spindle step pulley has had a knock, too.

I'll get into an inventory of the the rest of the machine in the next 3-4 days...it's all in bags.  The seller told me it was complete, but I have not verified.


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## eeler1 (Dec 12, 2019)

Well, you're into it now for sure.  I would normally just clean and lube and then re-assemble and see how it runs before looking for new parts.  Worn parts v. broken or missing parts.  A lot of times you discover what you need while in the process of putting it back together.


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## makeparts (Dec 12, 2019)

The backgear looks ok, but the shaft is a bit beat up...same with the countershaft spindle...
the countershaft pulley has what looks to me like a non-standard pulley, for the motor belt...is that a "4"


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## makeparts (Dec 12, 2019)

eeler1 said:


> Well, you're into it now for sure.  I would normally just clean and lube and then re-assemble and see how it runs before looking for new parts.  Worn parts v. broken or missing parts.  A lot of times you discover what you need while in the process of putting it back together.


lol yeah... the machine was pretty much fully disassembled, except for the headstock, and I figured since I was at this point, I'd get into it all...what lubes are you using?


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## makeparts (Dec 12, 2019)

Here's the ding on that countershaft pulley I couldn't identify.  The countershaft spindle has taken some abuse.  The somewhere along the line, previous owners/operators have converted oiling holes into set screws for some of the pulleys and gears.


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## makeparts (Dec 12, 2019)

I was poking around downloads...the repairs document that lists the bearings for this machine as <I think>:
For all Atlas 612 & 618 and Craftsman 101.21400 lathes:
M6-81B Cone = 07100
M6-81B Cup = 07196
M6-82B Cone = 07079
M6-82B Cup = 07196
All listed on the Clausing drawing as Class 2

since I have a single bearing spindle, would I choose the M6-82B Cup, or Cone, bearing?
is it worth going to an ABEC 3 vs. the 2?


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## wa5cab (Dec 12, 2019)

First thing that I need to caution you about is that the set screw removed from the spindle cone pulley is an oil plug, not a set screw.  There is a discussion of this problem up in the Sticky area, although as written it seems to apply to the 10" and 12".  But it applies equally to both versions of the 6".  Do not under any circumstances force it through until it touches or locks to the spindle.  If you do, first time that you put it into back gear you will probably ruin the spindle.

Second, nothing on the repairs document that you quoted applies to your lathe.  Again, your lathe has sleeve bearings.  The three models listed all have tapered roller bearings and as far as the spindle is concerned have nothing to do with your machine.  The reason that I suggested that you download the 1950 618 parts manual (or if they are uploaded, maybe the 1945 one) is that some of it does apply to your machine.  But not the spindle, spindle bearings or headstock casting.

As an aside, although none of it has anything to do with your sleeve bearing machine, ABEC grades have nothing to do with any tapered roller bearing. They apply to ball bearings and some other types.  The applicable standards  and classes for tapered roller bearings are promulgated by ABMA and ANSI.  And the numbers for one standard are mostly the reverse for the other.  I increasing order of "goodness", the ABMA Classes run 4. 2. 3. 0 and 00.

Back to your photographs, The small 2-step pulley M6-428 is the early 1/2" bore pulley.  If it fits your motor, use it.  The later manuals and parts lists will show M6-429, which is the same pulley except with a 5/8" bore.


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## makeparts (Dec 12, 2019)

wa5cab said:


> First thing that I need to caution you about is that the set screw removed from the spindle cone pulley is an oil plug, not a set screw.  There is a discussion of this problem up in the Sticky area, although as written it seems to apply to the 10" and 12".  But it applies equally to both versions of the 6".  Do not under any circumstances force it through until it touches or locks to the spindle.  If you do, first time that you put it into back gear you will probably ruin the spindle.



I read that the other day, so yes it concerned me.  So if I understand correctly, the step pulley is not "fastened", per se, but just uses the woodruff key and the bushings for the shaft fit? and the set screw is really to make an "oil resovoir", by capping off the hole once oil is introduced into it? or do I just oil it, and put the set screw aside?



wa5cab said:


> Second, nothing on the repairs document that you quoted applies to your lathe.  Again, your lathe has sleeve bearings.  The three models listed all have tapered roller bearings and as far as the spindle is concerned have nothing to do with your machine.  The reason that I suggested that you download the 1950 618 parts manual (or if they are uploaded, maybe the 1945 one) is that some of it does apply to your machine.  But not the spindle, spindle bearings or headstock casting.



Im a little confused - as you see from the pictures, I pulled a bearing (it's a Nice 5774, which I think is a plain ball thrust bearing) off the spindle (along with the 2 sleeve bearings that are still in the castings), so I do understand it's a single ball bearing 2 sleeve bearing lathe.   Am I wrong about the Nice 5774 - is it a tapered roller, or a hybrid thrust-radial type ball bearing?  I took that bearing to a local Motion Industries location to find me a replacement - the rep I was working with admitted he wasn't a bearing expert, but he thought it was a ball thrust bearing, as well.  They hadn't found anything as of end of the day today, but to be fair, Im a low volume/low spend type of customer, so I don't expect lightning fast service.  But they have been pretty good to me thus far.

I don't see dates on the pdf's, so Im sorry I don't know how to identify the year of manual publication.
Am I correct thinking you are referring to the manual that has the "Picture" (not a blow up diagram) of all the parts, listing a single thrust ball bearing in the headstock assembly as S10F-91? (filename "Craftsman Lathe 6 101-07301.pdf")?  
I also see another pdf that has a single ball thrust bearing listed below the picture as item L2-20 (file named "Craftsman Lathe 6 101-07301 1944-11.pdf".  

I promise you I am trying to do all the legwork, and not expecting to be hand fed here!



wa5cab said:


> As an aside, although none of it has anything to do with your sleeve bearing machine, ABEC grades have nothing to do with any tapered roller bearing. They apply to ball bearings and some other types.  The applicable standards  and classes for tapered roller bearings are promulgated by ABMA and ANSI.  And the numbers for one standard are mostly the reverse for the other.  I increasing order of "goodness", the ABMA Classes run 4. 2. 3. 0 and 00.



Good info - Im not a bearing expert, so the more data the better - I appreciate that!  Did you mean ABMA ratings runs 4 - 3 - 2 - 0 - 00, in order of "better" bearings?  I see 4.2.3.0 and 00 in your post 



wa5cab said:


> Back to your photographs, The small 2-step pulley M6-428 is the early 1/2" bore pulley.  If it fits your motor, use it.  The later manuals and parts lists will show M6-429, which is the same pulley except with a 5/8" bore.



I think that pulley M6-428 came of the outside end of the countershaft assembly, not the motor...


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## makeparts (Dec 12, 2019)

makeparts said:


> I think that pulley M6-428 came of the outside end of the countershaft assembly, not the motor...


you were correct/I was wrong 
that 428 pulley DID come off the motor my bad


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## wa5cab (Dec 13, 2019)

The correct order of the ABMA classes is 4, 2, 3, 0, 00 as I wrote it.  I have no idea why but that's the way that it is.  #3 is better than #2 but #4 is worse.  Timken claims not to make Class 4, which I take to mean that they scrap them instead of selling them.  Or maybe they just sell them to the Chinese who sell them cheap under some other brand.

On the manuals, most of the early ones have one or two large photographs or drawings of most of the parts spread out loose on a table with most parts having the part number written beside them.  Plus a parts list showing part number, description, sometimes price, and sometimes saying how many are required if greater than 1.

You are 2/3 correct about the dates in the file names of the three 101.07301 manuals that I have put into Downloads.  When you have gotten down to the Craftsman Lathe Manuals folder, near the top of the screen click on Sort By Title.  Download the top three PDF's.  The top one does have the date in the title.  The second and third don't.  The top one is from November, 1944 and the title ends in 1944-11.  The date following most titles is the date that the file was uploaded.  The first file has the 101.07301 manual plus some other sheets like the one showing how to set the change gear tooth clearance.  In the back, it has the illustrated parts list style manual on the 101.21400, which is the Craftsman copy of the Atlas 618, both of which have Timken bearings.  But most of the lathe is the same as the 101.07301 and you can see pretty much where everything goes.  If in doubt about a part number, check it in one of the other two.  I've forgotten why I put both of them in Downloads, but I must have had a reason.   Also, a few parts and/or part numbers have changed since 1944 which is the main reason that I said to download all three. For example, the motor pulley part number changed from the 1/2" bore M6-428 to the 5/8" bore M6-429.

Note that all of the titles have a hyphen between 101 and the rest of the model number instead of a period.  This is because some computer operating systems reserve the period as the character between the file name and the extension.  My system is pretty current and will tolerate periods earlier in a file name.  But some of my files date back to the late 1980's and MSDOS.  So I play it safe.  Also, I didn't want to have to remember to edit every Title after uploading the file.


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## makeparts (Dec 13, 2019)

Did some research this am.

All the older Atlas manuals list the thrust bearing as S10F-91, from what I could find.  I spoke to Tom, a tech. at Clausing, and he found they had 1 of these bearings left in inventory, and went to the warehouse and examined it:
STAMPED on the outer race:  INA D-5
O.D. 1.465
I.D .750 TAPER SIDE
I.D. .780 FLAT SIDE
W .560
It looks different than the Nice, but that may or may not be an issue. He also sent a picture, that I've included in this post.

I also spoke to a CS rep. Madge at RBC - she engaged with the
NICE engineering folks (Nice is a part of RBC now) and responded with this:

******
Good morning:  per our NICE engineering group, this bearing was created in 1936.
We do not produce any longer and do not have a replacement.
He suggested you try either INA are Aetna.
Also, an original print is attached
*******
I've attached a copy of the 1936 Nice bearing drawing.  

the S10F-91 Clausing has on hand matches the old Nice 5774 fairly well, regarding inner race taper, except for diameter (~.0275 difference), which I don't think is an issue (am I correct here?), and the width - it's quite a bit wider than the Nice bearing. See picture attached. (and a pic earlier in the thread for the Nice 5774 bearing)

per drawing                       Nice 5774 width: =27/64" = .421875" -> .422"
per Clausing inspection    INA D-5 width:                                       = .560"

thats a .138" difference (9/64")

is there enough play in the spindle to allow that?


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## makeparts (Dec 13, 2019)

also, have some more info on the bushing bearings, if it doesn't exist anywhere in the archives:

L2-14 Spindle bushing left
bronze
$5.87 (Clausing price, as of 13Dec.19)
Dimensions from drawing document within Clausing
OD .878" - .877"
ID   .751" - .752"
W  1.250"

L9-14 Spindle bushing right
bronze
$3.82 (Clausing price, as of 13Dec.19)
Dimensions from Clausing Tech rep. going and measuring inventory items
OD 1.130"
ID   1.000"
W   1.250"


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## makeparts (Dec 19, 2019)

Have had progress since my last post

- de-rusted just about everything that needed it.  I'm done, except maybe a 2nd light de-rusting for some collars/other hardware-really not much left to do, here....evapo-rust works friggin' miracles!
-still need to do degrease the headstock/ways/feet, and give the ways some light love - it looks really good, tho.

The lathe in surprisingly good condition, and quite complete, given it was basically purchased from the PO as parts in bags, except for the headstock. The bags as provided did not 100% match assemblies, so I will have to figure out what goes where .  I've had my hands on just about every part, and here's what I have come up with, for a replacement list, pre re-assembly...(figger I may as well obtain/replace this stuff since I'm doing a full re-assembly).  I might add some collars and other small hardware as I go, but at this point I think the below list is good for the re-assembly

Many thanks to wa5cab for the guidance and clarification provided to get me to this point!.

Compound Rest Assembly
NEEDED (Don't see them anywhere)
1) QTY 2: M6-309, Compound Lock Plunger (the 2 angled set screws press these items against the Compound rest).  The latest price list names this part number as "Pins".
Anyone have any idea what these are made of?  what the specs are?

Headstock Assembly
The right spindle bushing bearing is a bit scored, from PO's, but I'm going to replace all the bearings since I'm in here...
GETTING THESE JUST BECAUSE
1) QTY 1: L2-14, Spindle Bushing, Left
2) QTY 1: L9-14, Spindle Bushing, Right
3) QTY 1: S10F-91 Ball Thrust Bearing

The spindle has been scored a little (see pics above) but Im going to try and file/buff that stuff out and run it, see how it performs before I go any farther down that path. 

As I stated in a previous post, the cone pulley has a chip in the smallest pulley sheave (? is that what you call the wall of the pulley?), and the motor pulley M6-428 also has a chip in the smaller pulley sheave. Also going to try and run these, before considering replacement.

Its missing 2 of the bakelite knobs, but I'll probably just make or mold something - that's pretty far down the list.

NOT SURE
1) My headstock only had 1 back gear washer as put together, but the older manuals seem to show more than that...not sure.  maybe I'll get some and see how/what they fit...
2) The back gear shaft is scored, so I'll see if I can file that out...interestingly enough, I found a complete 2nd used back gear shaft sub-assembly, so I think a PO was perhaps thinking this needs to be replaced, and never got to it.  Except for the scoring on the back gear shaft, the rest of this sub-assembly is in very good shape. (have not looked at the 2nd shaft yet)
3) I was wondering about the cone belt - this looks like a 1/4" belt (I read somewhere I think it's a z-belt?).  I have some belts that came with the machine (2 that look like originals, different lengths, and 1 possible replacement, but it looks like a 1/2" belt, so it appears to me to be incorrect).

I have what appears to be the original as supplied counter shaft assembly, so If I use the recommended mounting specs, I'll have to figure out which belt...

What's the best way to determine belt size/type/length - do they make those adjustable belts in 1/4"?  I'm not very knowledgeable regarding pulley/belt power transmission, so any advice here would be terrific.

I'll post some pictures in the next few days...the paint isn't perfect, but I love the patina, so I'm going to leave the aesthetics as is...I think it looks great as is!


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## makeparts (Dec 19, 2019)

oh forgot to add, I'll probably get the nylon patch Allen set screw to replace the slotted set screw that was driven down and scored the spindle...time to break out the thread gauges


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## wa5cab (Dec 19, 2019)

The nylon patch set screw is about the only fix for the spindle cone pulley problem other than replacement.

The belts are 3/8".  Strangely, no one with apparently original belts has ever reported the rest of the belt industry part numbers for the 101.07301.  For the 618 with bench mounted motor, we have motor belt as 3L210 and spindle belt as 3L350.  But almost all 618's still in existence have a different countershaft bracket.  The safest thing to do would be to buy a pair of them from Clausing.  

They do make link belts for 3/8" pulleys but anyone who tries to restart that argument will be treated harshly.  'way more than enough space has already been wasted on it.

As far as measuring for the required belts, the usual method is to mount the countershaft bracket per the drawing.  Position the belt tensioner at the middle of its actual adjustment range, and wrap a 3/8" wide preferably cloth tape measure around either of the two middle pulley grooves.  Round off to the nearest inch, and buy one that length.  Note that the industry belt part number is standardized as a 3 (for 3/8" wide, the letter "L", and a 3-digit number with is the belt length in tenths of an inch.  So the 3L350 previously mentioned is 35.0"long.  The belts used on all of the Atlas machines except for two of the four on the 12" cabinet models are known as fractional horse power belts, or FHP.


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## wa5cab (Dec 19, 2019)

I forgot to add that the two beveled lock pins for the compound swivel and the milling attachment are or were the last time that I asked still available from Clausing.  I did do a drawing of the 10-309 some years ago from ones out of my 3996.  That drawing is in Downloads.  But I never did the M6-309 as I don;t have an original to go by.  However, one could probably just scale the 10-309 down by the ratio of .250/.3125 except for the bevel angle of 60 deg.


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## makeparts (Dec 19, 2019)

wa5cab said:


> The nylon patch set screw is about the only fix for the spindle cone pulley problem other than replacement.
> 
> The belts are 3/8".  Strangely, no one with apparently original belts has ever reported the rest of the belt industry part numbers for the 101.07301.  For the 618 with bench mounted motor, we have motor belt as 3L210 and spindle belt as 3L350.  But almost all 618's still in existence have a different countershaft bracket.  The safest thing to do would be to buy a pair of them from Clausing.
> 
> ...



Wow wa5cab you are prolific on this board!  I super appreciate you sharing your obviously deep knowledge - it's a huge help in getting this machine back in operation.

I checked the set screws for the cone pulley and the bull gear (spindle back gear).  I forgot to take pictures/write it down, so unless I have messed it up:
cone pulley oil reservoir set screw - 3/16"" long, #10x32tpi slotted head cone bottom set screw
bull gear oil reservoir set screw - 1/8" long, #8x32 tpi slotted head cone bottom set screw
bull gear pin spring/ball retaining set screw - 1/8" long, #8x32 tpi slotted head cone bottom set screw 
I'll take another look this weekend when Im not tired, and correct the above if I got it wrong.

I'll measure the 2 what must be 3/8" belts that I have...if there are any legible #'s or letters, I'll share them along with the lengths, but if memory serves me, there isn't anything there to be read.

If I get the 2 Clausing belts, does that imply that the motor is mounted under/closer to the lathe?  I've seen a ton of pics with all imaginable orientations, but all the catalog pics show it mounted like this. 

It didn't come with the original motor, but an unused 1/2 hp. motor, circa 2004-2005.  It's a Chicago Electric Power Tools motor, which is a Harbor Freight brand.  At least it is an unused motor, that spins smoothly when power applied.

115VAC, 60Hz, single phase, 5amp no load, 7.5amp peak, 1725 rpm, 5/8" shaft, fan cooled, NEMA 48
Facing the shaft, it is counterclockwise rotation, but is specified as reversible. (Four poles, centrifugal switch, capacitor start)

Question here:  If an electric motor like this one is "specified" as reversible, does that imply the start and run windings are the same capacity, or are the start windings much lighter, and the motor is only reversible for short periods?  The motor manual schematic seems to imply this, with different sized (# of coils) winding symbols), but on another page it talks about wiring for reverse direction operation, without warning about this, such as I have seen with other motors.

Looking at the lathe, and mounting the motor so that it's counterclockwise rotation is used for normal lathe operations, I think I need to mount the motor "outside" the lathe (to the left of the headstock/countershaft). I would prefer to mount it to the "inside" of the headstock/countershaft (to the right of the headstock/countershaft)... can anyone that knows about reversible electric motors weigh in here? ...am I on crazy pills here?

It came with a 110V fwd-rev toggle switch, but I found a 110V Cole-Hersee fwd-rev drum switch, and I'd rather use that since it's better ergonomics.

From old pics, a NEMA 48 seems to be bigger than the original motors that came with the lathe, so I guess it just remains to be seen how I can mount it.


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## makeparts (Dec 19, 2019)

wa5cab said:


> I forgot to add that the two beveled lock pins for the compound swivel and the milling attachment are or were the last time that I asked still available from Clausing.  I did do a drawing of the 10-309 some years ago from ones out of my 3996.  That drawing is in Downloads.  But I never did the M6-309 as I don;t have an original to go by.  However, one could probably just scale the 10-309 down by the ratio of .250/.3125 except for the bevel angle of 60 deg.



lol I found the beveled lock pins in another baggy, when I stopped by the lathe today, to check the set screw sizes.  Im going to layout ALL parts, by sub-assembly, to finalize the inventory, and ensure I don't keep finding parts I didn't know I had (and vice versa discover more missing items)...that will be an impressive picture, all layed-out on the table. 

I'll measure the pins and share that here for reference, if you like.


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## makeparts (Dec 19, 2019)

makeparts said:


> Wow wa5cab you are prolific on this board!  I super appreciate you sharing your obviously deep knowledge - it's a huge help in getting this machine back in operation.
> 
> I checked the set screws for the cone pulley and the bull gear (spindle back gear).  I forgot to take pictures/write it down, so unless I have messed it up:
> cone pulley oil reservoir set screw - 3/16"" long, #10x32tpi slotted head cone bottom set screw
> ...


was just thinking...is there any reason I can't move the countershaft so that the outer motor pulley is on the other side?...that would allow me to mount the motor under the countershaft, taking up less acreage overall...


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## wa5cab (Dec 20, 2019)

To take your last question first, you might be able to put the large 2-groove pulley on the right end and turn the motor around but that buy's you nothing.  The motor diameter won't change if you turn it around and the large pulley may get in the way of the belt tension lever.  But the only thing that you need to do to reverse the motor rotation if you are not using the drum switch is to reverse the connections to the two Start winding leads or terminals.  So leave the large pulley on the left end of the counter shaft.

Before I forget it, the set screw in the bull gear is a set screw, not an oil plug.  After you have everything back on the spindle with the spindle in the headstock (don't forget the spindle belt), one of the last things that you do is slide the bull gear up against the pulley and tighten the bull gear set screw against the spindle.  Then you check the end float (axial movement) of the pulley.  It should be around 0.002" to 0.004".  This is with the collar to the left of the small spindle gear hard up against the shoulder in the spindle.

The NEMA frame size specifies the mounting hole pattern and location and the motor shaft diameter.  48 has a 1/2" shaft and 56 has a 5/8" one.  It does not determine the motor diameter.  

I have to leave now.  Back later.


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## makeparts (Dec 22, 2019)

re: the motor orientation - it's about saving some bench real estate, nothing else - it means the lathe can be left-justified to the end of the bench, rather than a foot inward, because of the motor needing to be out there.  If I read your post correctly, you are stating I can just wire the reversible motor to run in the direction needed, based on the chosen orientation?


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## makeparts (Dec 22, 2019)

well, we have had some progress over the last week or so

we have had a chance to de-grease/de-rust almost everything
still need to get hands on the 
a) tailstock
b) lead screw
c) some accessories (4" 4 jaw, 6" 3 jaw chucks, follower rest).  

The ways are in good shape I think, but there is some surface oxidation in a couple spots - any thoughts on our current process, with reference to cleaning up the ways?
1) degrease
2) spray w/ PB Blaster or Kroil until next step
3) wipe down & use some evapo-rust
4) neutralize with H2O, then towel dry
5) spray with PB Blaster to keep an oil film on until we start the re-assembly

I was going to layout each sub-assembly, similar to how the sub-assembly pictures are layed-out, so that people could see this for a sleeve bearing lathe, for future reference.

Also, looking in another folder, I found an original manual with the part diagram (not blown up subassemblies, but the parts layed out image for earlier lathes) and part list - Im going to try and find a 1200dpi scanner, to try and share a really good copy that can be used to identify part numbers when zooming in.


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## makeparts (Dec 22, 2019)

there is 1 item I cannot identify, and a few parts I don't think are part of the lathe, but not being a real machinist, I have a long list of unknown unknowns :|

the "few parts" are a brass 90deg. fitting bracket, with 2 brass wing nuts, and another larger allow wing nut with an attached rubber? washer on the mating surface.


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## makeparts (Dec 22, 2019)

Also, there were what looked like fiber or paper washers, very thin.  They were dried out, cracking, and if they are important, in need of replacement.

One was floating free in a bag of parts (the bag for the parts for the left end of the lead screw), and another in a bag with a single part - it was looped over the non-externally threaded end (on compound gear side) of the Tumbler bracket stud (M6-47).

Where does these get installed?  was one a spare?  do they go on either side of the stud? 
is this an item that can be sourced at mcmaster-carr or someplace??


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## RobertB (Dec 22, 2019)

They both appear to be indicator holders, the brass one possibly home made.


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## makeparts (Dec 22, 2019)

I took a closer look at the belts - I don't think they are original, but I don't really know.  Brought them to an auto-parts store, and put them on a belt measuring tool.

What I assume is the motor-countershaft (smaller) belt is a Gates Trueflex l230 (there is some wear, but I can see the word Gates, most of the word Trueflex, top of the L, and most of the 230).  The belt measuring tool says it is a ~222 belt.  Does "11" imply 3/8".  I don't know much about them, and the kids at the autoparts store didn't either.

The larger belt (countershaft-headstock?) is also a Gates Trueflex L310. This belt doesn't have painted lettering - they are embossed/stamped into the top of the belt.  The measuring tool shows this belt to be a ~297 belt.

do belts shrink over time?  does the measuring tool have the capacity to measure l belts, or is this causing erroneous readings?
Taking a look, and chatting with the autoparts guys, we <think> these belts could be used to get it moving again. The smaller belt is almost round, and not much wear...the longer belt does have a smaller bend in memory, but not as bad as other new belts I have seen.


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## makeparts (Dec 22, 2019)

RobertB said:


> They both appear to be indicator holders, the brass one possibly home made.


ah yes that is possible.  don't articulate, but that seems like a good bet.


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## RobertB (Dec 22, 2019)

makeparts said:


> What I assume is the motor-countershaft (smaller) belt is a Gates Trueflex l230 (there is some wear, but I can see the word Gates, most of the word Trueflex, top of the L, and most of the 230).  The belt measuring tool says it is a ~222 belt.  Does "11" imply 3/8".  I don't know much about them, and the kids at the autoparts store didn't either.
> 
> The larger belt (countershaft-headstock?) is also a Gates Trueflex L310. This belt doesn't have painted lettering - they are embossed/stamped into the top of the belt.  The measuring tool shows this belt to be a ~297 belt.



The belt appears in the 13/15 range on the tool so that is where you should read the length, at the 13/15 line on the gauge window. You also need to put a lot of tension on the belt, particularly with older stiffer belt

With a bench mounted motor and bench mounted counter shaft belt length is not critical as you can position each to adjust.


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## wa5cab (Dec 22, 2019)

I don't know what the brass bracket is but it isn't a part of the basic lathe.  The steel bar with rod sticking out of one end could just be a straight edge, with the rod for a handle.  Although what you would use it for with the lathe I don't know.

If the paper washers fit the M6-250 back gear shaft, they are probably the M6-255 Washer.  Which serve as shims.  They would go between the collars and the back gear assembly.  The 1950 618 parts list shows two of them, one at either end of the back gear and calls them Fiber Washer.  The 1945 version only shows one and calls it a Washer.  If you haven't already done it, download the 1945 and the 1950 618 manuals from Downloads.  The 1945 version includes the lathe and countershaft mounting drawing.  And shows the motor mounted up next to the countershaft bracket with the pulleys on the left end.  However, although I cannot find it in your photo, your countershaft bracket is probably much shorter than the Type 3 shown in those two parts manuals.  So after bolting down the lathe bed, temporarily position the countershaft where the 618 and 101.21400 drawings call for and make sure that the belts all fit before drilling the holes.


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## RobertB (Dec 22, 2019)

wa5cab said:


> I don't know what the brass bracket is but it isn't a part of the basic lathe.  The steel bar with rod sticking out of one end could just be a straight edge, with the rod for a handle.  Although what you would use it for with the lathe I don't know.



It's an indicator holder for a lantern/rocker style tool post. This is the Starrett version:


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## wa5cab (Dec 22, 2019)

OK.  Now I recognize it.  I even have one!


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## phubbman (Dec 23, 2019)

makeparts said:


> there is 1 item I cannot identify, and a few parts I don't think are part of the lathe, but not being a real machinist, I have a long list of unknown unknowns :|
> 
> the "few parts" are a brass 90deg. fitting bracket, with 2 brass wing nuts, and another larger allow wing nut with an attached rubber? washer on the mating surface.



Both of those parts look like hardware for holding test or dial indicators.  The steel piece looks like it mounts in the lantern tool post holder.  The round rod is to attach the indicator to.  The brass piece with the wing nuts looks like it slides over the round rod on the other tool post mounted piece to attach the indicator at a 90 degree angle.  Neither is technically part of the lathe, but you'll use both regularly.
paulh


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## makeparts (Dec 24, 2019)

RobertB said:


> The belt appears in the 13/15 range on the tool so that is where you should read the length, at the 13/15 line on the gauge window. You also need to put a lot of tension on the belt, particularly with older stiffer belt
> 
> With a bench mounted motor and bench mounted counter shaft belt length is not critical as you can position each to adjust.


ah I see thanks Robert

I have the manuals with the motor locating holes, which I'll use as a reference/alignment, but yeah, I'll be able to fit them to the belts


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## makeparts (Dec 24, 2019)

I had a few minutes this am, so I drew up a 3D model of the M6-309 pin.  Its in a parametric modeling tool, so when I get a chance to get the best measurements I can, I'll update dimensions and push 2d drawings (and the 3D model file, if anyone is interested).


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## makeparts (Dec 24, 2019)

After reviewing the responses here, and much additional pouring over manuals with the table of parts I have, I think I have a decent list of items to order. Not much to get it spinning, but Im missing a number of tailstock internals, and some other bits and pieces not crucial, but want to haves...

to get the lathe running, I'm going to replace the 2 sleeve and 1 thrust spindle bearings.  in my email request to the nice lady at Clausing, I've added 4 of the M6-255 fiber/paper shim washers, so I will have them if needed.

going thru all the parts, I <think> Im missing one of the M6-165 gear spacers, but Im not sure what is the M6-165, and what is the M6-33 bushing.  attached is a pic of these parts, marked with the items Im not sure about. Believe I have them laid out as the 33 bushings are with the tumbler gears, and the 165 spacers I have (2 of 3) are with the stack of gears...am I on target here?





all the responses are hugely appreciated - I hope to be able to contribute more after I get the lathe running, and become familiar with it, to help the community


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## makeparts (Dec 24, 2019)

wa5cab said:


> I don't know what the brass bracket is but it isn't a part of the basic lathe.  The steel bar with rod sticking out of one end could just be a straight edge, with the rod for a handle.  Although what you would use it for with the lathe I don't know.
> 
> If the paper washers fit the M6-250 back gear shaft, they are probably the M6-255 Washer.  Which serve as shims.  They would go between the collars and the back gear assembly.  The 1950 618 parts list shows two of them, one at either end of the back gear and calls them Fiber Washer.  The 1945 version only shows one and calls it a Washer.  If you haven't already done it, download the 1945 and the 1950 618 manuals from Downloads.  The 1945 version includes the lathe and countershaft mounting drawing.  And shows the motor mounted up next to the countershaft bracket with the pulleys on the left end.  However, although I cannot find it in your photo, your countershaft bracket is probably much shorter than the Type 3 shown in those two parts manuals.  So after bolting down the lathe bed, temporarily position the countershaft where the 618 and 101.21400 drawings call for and make sure that the belts all fit before drilling the holes.



I've highlighted the countershaft assembly parts in the attached picture, if that helps (extreme right side of image).  Im not going to get a chance to go near it until Friday/Saturday, so I don't know which specific part number it is.


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## makeparts (Dec 24, 2019)

I have a line on a decent, unchipped Spindle Cone Pulley, but Im not sure what matters:

Im told they are the same between Mk1 and Mk2 lathes, and perhaps only the bushings are different?  
If this is the case, how hard is it to replace them?  I know these pulleys are relatively delicate - is it worth it to try a bushing replacement, if needed?


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## wa5cab (Dec 25, 2019)

M6-165 is a steel gear spacer.  It has the same double-keyed bore as do all of the change gears.  Two originally came with the machine.  One is always used on the left end of the lead screw, so that the single gear used there can be positioned in either the back (B) or front (F) position in order to mesh with the previous gear.  One is used in place of a gear whenever an actual gear is not needed in either the B or F position.

The two parts circled in red might be M6-33 Tumbler Gear Bushing.

The casting at the bottom of the light blue encircled area is L9-20A Countershaft Bracket.  I do not see the M6-21 Countershaft Hanger in your photos.

The spindle or cone pulley is not the same on the so-called (Clausing didn't AFAIK call the various 6" machines by anything except their model numbers) MK1 or MK2.  For one thing, the MK1's used 3/8"  belts and the MK2's used 1/4".  For another, the MK2's did not achieve back gear operation in the same way as the MK1's.


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## RobertB (Dec 25, 2019)

wa5cab said:


> I do not see the M6-21 Countershaft Hanger in your photos.



I think it's just nested in the top of the bracket


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## wa5cab (Dec 25, 2019)

Well, it could be.  Never having seen one of the brackets, and only having a side view small scale line drawing of the bracket and the hanger, I don't really know what they should look like at 90 degrees from the plane of the parts outline drawings in the very brief 101.07301 manuals.


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## makeparts (Dec 26, 2019)

wa5cab said:


> Well, it could be.  Never having seen one of the brackets, and only having a side view small scale line drawing of the bracket and the hanger, I don't really know what they should look like at 90 degrees from the plane of the parts outline drawings in the very brief 101.07301 manuals.


I'm going to swing by there later today or tomorrow, so I'll post some close ups of the countershaft assembly stuff, articulate it a bit to see angles, etc.


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## wa5cab (Dec 26, 2019)

OK.


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## makeparts (Dec 27, 2019)

haven't been able to swing by the machine yet, but my brother was able to snap a picture for me
L9-20A, and M6-21.

I'll get some better ones this weekend.


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## wa5cab (Dec 27, 2019)

OK.  That's seven (counting the two shaft collars as two and the two countershaft spindle bushings as two) countershaft parts accounted for.


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## makeparts (Dec 30, 2019)

here's some more pics of the countershaft


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## makeparts (Dec 30, 2019)

here's a drawing for the M6-309 pins. I did the 3d model in Alibre, and can export it if anybody wants the 3d model (*STL*, *STEP*, *SAT*, *IGES*, *Parasolid*, *DWG*, *DXF)*

I think the important dimensions are probably the diameter and angle of the end cut.  

The chamfer and radius are good for strain/stress relief, and can probably vary.  I estimated the radius based on setting the radius-ed end using the overall length of pin, and the start of the radius, but it came out fairly similar to the real parts. 

The length is probably something that can vary slightly as well, given the pins are pressed in by a set screw.


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## makeparts (Dec 30, 2019)

STATUS UPDATE:  I ordered the parts needed for final assembly from Clausing and other sources last week, and only need to get some small hardware like the nylon patch set screw(s).

Just have to de-grease/de-rust the lead screw, and maybe touch up some other parts, and I want to give the ways some light love.

I moved the lathe to my shop this weekend, so hopefully it will be ready for mounting and assembly starting some time this coming weekend.


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## makeparts (Dec 30, 2019)

One question for the experienced:  I've read a bunch of threads on using Felts for the oiler cups on the headstock, and have some questions, especially since opinions are rather variable on this topic, from what I can see...

1) do I need to drill holes through the sleeve bearings, after they've been inserted?  if so, how big a hole, and what's a good way to lock the bearing into place while drilling?

2) I think I would be diligent about oil/lubrication, so the best I can see is if that is true, I don't need to put felts into the oil cup holes.  

3) if felts truly are recommended, should they extend all the way down to the sleeve bearing, or hold at some height off the bearing?


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## Voda2000 (Dec 30, 2019)

Thanks for the pin drawing. I am missing some from my milling attachment.

I’m interested to hear about the felts too. Right now I don’t have any and I am missing one of the Gits caps.


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## RobertB (Dec 30, 2019)

The bushings are oilite so no hole is needed, the oil will seep into them. Just top the oil cups up as needed. Felts are also not needed. 
You can get oil cups from McMaster https://www.mcmaster.com/oilers and many other places (I think even Amazon carries them)


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## makeparts (Dec 30, 2019)

Voda2000 said:


> Thanks for the pin drawing. I am missing some from my milling attachment.
> 
> I’m interested to hear about the felts too. Right now I don’t have any and I am missing one of the Gits caps.


sure Voda tryna give back to the community. 

I've been using Alibre Design for 8+ years, and am trying to learn MecSoft's Visual Cad/Cam...

If anyone needs other parts on the 101.07301 lathe modeled, and are not in a rush, I'd be willing to consider a request.


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## makeparts (Dec 30, 2019)

RobertB said:


> The bushings are oilite so no hole is needed, the oil will seep into them. Just top the oil cups up as needed. Felts are also not needed.
> You can get oil cups from McMaster https://www.mcmaster.com/oilers and many other places (I think even Amazon carries them)


Thank you Robert!
<goes off to reseach 'oilite'>


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## wa5cab (Dec 31, 2019)

"Oilite" is from the name of the first company to make porous bronze bushings.  Like other trade names, it has become synonymous with the bushing type, regardless of who made them.  The generic name is "Sintered Bronze".

Felt plugs weren't added by Atlas until just after the 101.07301 went out of production.  But I would recommend using them as they will reduce oil slinging and tend to protect the bushings if you forget to top up the oil before starting the motor one morning.  They are relatively low density felt about the diameter of the large end of the cup and of a thickness such that after installing them and filling them with oil, they come right to the top of the cups.  It is not necessary that they have two diameters and continue through the small end of the cup.  You can buy felt sheet and the proper diameter arch punch but arch punches aren't cheap and the minimum amount of felt sheet that you can buy will be enough to make about a bzillion of them.  Clausing still sells them but you need to be needing more than just a few felts or the shipping will cost much more than the felts.  They use UPS, who have a 1 lb minimum charge.


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## makeparts (Dec 31, 2019)

wa5cab said:


> "Oilite" is from the name of the first company to make porous bronze bushings.  Like other trade names, it has become synonymous with the bushing type, regardless of who made them.  The generic name is "Sintered Bronze".
> 
> Felt plugs weren't added by Atlas until just after the 101.07301 went out of production.  But I would recommend using them as they will reduce oil slinging and tend to protect the bushings if you forget to top up the oil before starting the motor one morning.  They are relatively low density felt about the diameter of the large end of the cup and of a thickness such that after installing them and filling them with oil, they come right to the top of the cups.  It is not necessary that they have two diameters and continue through the small end of the cup.  You can buy felt sheet and the proper diameter arch punch but arch punches aren't cheap and the minimum amount of felt sheet that you can buy will be enough to make about a bzillion of them.  Clausing still sells them but you need to be needing more than just a few felts or the shipping will cost much more than the felts.  They use UPS, who have a 1 lb minimum charge.


how about the cord McMasterCarr sells?  the F1?









						McMaster-Carr
					

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




					www.mcmaster.com


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## yendor (Dec 31, 2019)

The realy cheap version of the Felt Plugs for the headstock is to use DREMEL Buffing Wheels they fit perfect. 
The one that are screw fit to the manderls.
They have a TINY Hole in the middle where the screw on Mandrel fits but as soon as you add oil it swells up and that hole goes away.


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## wa5cab (Dec 31, 2019)

No, definitely not F1.  Not as bad as my first try at it years ago before I learned that Clausing still sold a lot of parts for my 3996 but not much better.  If you are going to buy a sheet of felt and an arch punch set, of what McMaster offers, maybe F13 but more likely F26.  F1 is so dense that it will not hold much oil and it will take an appreciable length of time for oil put on one side to soak through to the other.

The Dremel buffing wheels might work OK but I have never tried them.  Looking at them, I think that it would take 2 or 3 per oil cup.


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## makeparts (Dec 31, 2019)

wa5cab said:


> No, definitely not F1.  Not as bad as my first try at it years ago before I learned that Clausing still sold a lot of parts for my 3996 but not much better.  If you are going to buy a sheet of felt and an arch punch set, of what McMaster offers, maybe F13 but more likely F26.  F1 is so dense that it will not hold much oil and it will take an appreciable length of time for oil put on one side to soak through to the other.
> 
> The Dremel buffing wheels might work OK but I have never tried them.  Looking at them, I think that it would take 2 or 3 per oil cup.


how about the hollow paper/fabric or leather punches?  I think they are usually smooth blade circular cutters, but they could be slit at a few spots around the circumverence, to cut felt, maybe?


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## makeparts (Dec 31, 2019)

how's this for lubrication:
1) Vactra 2 for the ways etc.
2) DTE heavy medium ISO68 for the sleeve bearings/spindle
3) I found a place that sells 10oz. tubes of Carter Open Gear lube for the change gears

I've done a lot of research, and this seems to be the best I can come up with...am I on crazy pills here?


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## wa5cab (Jan 1, 2020)

Sounds pretty good, except that when I get around to finding some, I am going to try some Lubriplate Gear Shield on the change gears.  

And the DTE would be OK as a substitute for SAE 20 for everything other than the ways, dovetails and open gears.


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## makeparts (Jan 2, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> Sounds pretty good, except that when I get around to finding some, I am going to try some Lubriplate Gear Shield on the change gears.
> 
> And the DTE would be OK as a substitute for SAE 20 for everything other than the ways, dovetails and open gears.


so as I was at an auto parts store for another reason yesterday, I wandered over to the oil/grease section, and a grizzled automechanic veteran came to help me... we discussed machine lubrication, what I was looking for, and he seemed to know a bit about it

we found that the store (AdvanceAuto/Carquest) has proprietary brand versions of the 3 items (and more) for what I was proposing to use on my lathe.  and they had, in stock, 5 gallon buckets, 1 gal containers, and 1 qt. containers, all for pretty low prices... the pictures aren't very good...the grease picture is cutoff, but along the top row the very far left grease for 8.99, and the next lower level on a hanger was another type of open gear lube for 7.79 in a green container.  I don't think any of them contained any detergents...not 100% sure though.

The 8.99 open gear lube that was NGLI2, moly based
an oil that is an ISO68
several weights of hybraulic oil (SAE20)


I don't know much about them, as the labels weren't very complete, but I suppose, in a pinch, these could be used if it was urgent...


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## makeparts (Jan 2, 2020)

The parts from Clausing arrived today, so hopefully this weekend is productive.  I have to get back to work on Monday, so I wanted to try and at least get it mounted, re-assembled and levelled.

Most were small cosmetic items... The bearings were what I was waiting for, to start reassembly.  The sleeve bearings are good matches.  Glad Im replacing them...the old right one is pretty scored up.

The thrust bearing is a question, for me though.  The front and rear bores seem to be the same for both bearings, but I didn't want to use a digital caliper to check, and risk scoring a race.  Im waiting for a replacement telescoping bore gauge to check it (just so happens the one that needed replacing covers the IDs of the front and rear races).  Should be here tomorrow or Sat.

The thickness is dramatically different.  More than I thought it would be. 

But this is the bearing the Clausing tech said was the right item, as a replacement for the Nice 5774 thrust bearing that I have.  He even sent me a pic that Clausing labelled for the bearing (S10F on edge pic attached).

anybody have any thoughts?


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## makeparts (Jan 2, 2020)

The other part that was interesting was the M6-255 shim fiber/paper washer.  It's the same material as the ones I found in the baggies.

There were no shim washers for the backgear shaft, but there was 1 different fiber washer floating in a baggie, and and a 2nd that was located on the larger diameter unthreaded portion of the lead screw Fwd./Rev. Lever Stud.  So I think a PO had put 2 paper shims on the Lever stud also.  They aren't usable, as 1 was torn, and both are very dried out and brittle.

anyone ever heard of shim washers at this location?


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## wa5cab (Jan 3, 2020)

First, if you look at the progression of the illustrated or exploded view drawing over the years from 1945 to 1976, you will find that the earlier ones tend not to show all of the commercial parts (like screws and pins) that are actually present.  And in general, the assemblies seem to vary a little over the years.  I and a member of another list who happened to have several 618 headstocks to use for reference came to the conclusion that the 1950 dated manual, at least for the back gears, was the closest one to how the majority of them were assembled.  I redrew a few parts so that they actually looked like they would fit where he said that they had to go.  And to the best of my knowledge, the 1950 version that is in Downloads and in Files on the A-C Group on groups.io is the nearest to being like the majority of actual 618's and 101.21400's, and excepting the headstock. spindle and spindle bearings, and countershaft bracket, 101.07301's.

The 1976 version introduces another washer, 932-004 (2 req'd but only one shown), there is only one M6-253 Collar drawn like it fits the shaft and not the eccentrics, and the M6-255 (only one shown) is drawn as though it fits over the left eccentric.


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## makeparts (Jan 4, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> First, if you look at the progression of the illustrated or exploded view drawing over the years from 1945 to 1976, you will find that the earlier ones tend not to show all of the commercial parts (like screws and pins) that are actually present.  And in general, the assemblies seem to vary a little over the years.  I and a member of another list who happened to have several 618 headstocks to use for reference came to the conclusion that the 1950 dated manual, at least for the back gears, was the closest one to how the majority of them were assembled.  I redrew a few parts so that they actually looked like they would fit where he said that they had to go.  And to the best of my knowledge, the 1950 version that is in Downloads and in Files on the A-C Group on groups.io is the nearest to being like the majority of actual 618's and 101.21400's, and excepting the headstock. spindle and spindle bearings, and countershaft bracket, 101.07301's.
> 
> The 1976 version introduces another washer, 932-004 (2 req'd but only one shown), there is only one M6-253 Collar drawn like it fits the shaft and not the eccentrics, and the M6-255 (only one shown) is drawn as though it fits over the left eccentric.


copy that thanks for the info.

Im going to enlist my brother and try and get the lathe, counter shaft and motor mounted today... after that, it will hopefully go pretty quickly, for re-assembly.

Im going to wait until I have time to "tune it up", by making sure all the parts are fit/set/aligned/clearance'd properly in the coming weeks, but this is the milestone I was targeting for thru Sunday.  I'll have to do some research, and re-read the documentation, see if there is any guidance as to how to do all that.  

are there any gotcha's or rules of thumb?  (I haven't done any searching for this, so if there are threads on this don't flame too hard!)

again, appreciate the engagement from you all.


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## chippermat (Jan 4, 2020)

This is how I have mine mounted (I didn't like the factory tensioner, so fashioned my own).


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## chippermat (Jan 4, 2020)

In case you haven't seen the factory setup, this is it (image gleaned off the internet)


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## makeparts (Jan 4, 2020)

chippermat said:


> This is how I have mine mounted (I didn't like the factory tensioner, so fashioned my own).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes I thinks thats my countershaft
I have L9-20A, and M6-21

would it be possible to see pictures of your tensioning setup from other angles?


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## makeparts (Jan 4, 2020)

my help to mount the lathe had to reshedule for tomorrow, so I spent 2 hours separating the column and base on a rusty 15" Delta drill press.

man I can't wait to get back to making stuff. that was 2 hours of ice in the column, heat to the base, kroil, and hard work...


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## chippermat (Jan 4, 2020)

I can't really fault the factory tensioner, but this works a lot better for me. I put it together with a part l got off ebay from a larger Atlas lathe.


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## makeparts (Jan 5, 2020)

chippermat said:


> I can't really fault the factory tensioner, but this works a lot better for me. I put it together with a part l got off ebay from a larger Atlas lathe.


gotta love mechanical advantage

what did you mount the pivot to?


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## chippermat (Jan 5, 2020)

drilled and tapped a 3/8 hole in the side of the head stock casting. Might seem thin there, but I made a bushing with a flange on it to spread the load out.


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## makeparts (Jan 15, 2020)

things often don't go as planned/scheduled, do they?  had some delays, but I can say it's rewarding, to take a pile of rusty parts, and try to turn it into something that works, and is reasonably precise.

here are pics of some progress I've had so far this week.

got the tailstock and carriage/compound rest assemblies all cleaned/de-greased/de-rusted/oiled up.  then got them assembled and put onto the lathe last few nights.  Same for a milling attachment and draw-bar/collet set I picked up from an honest stranger on the interwebs.

I figured before I mount the lathe, I'll get it all together, so that it's ready to be leveled in it's ready-to-run state.

ever forward!


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## makeparts (Jan 16, 2020)

spent another couple hours, and got a little farther. worked on the tumbler gear, and lead screw assemblies and because I wanted to see them, mounted the gear guard and headstock belt guard covers.  Also test fit the countershaft assembly.  Im not sure which orientation I want to place the motor/countershaft, but it's a start!

that gear lube is every bit as gooey and sticky as I thought it would be.  thank god for disposable rubber gloves.


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## makeparts (Jan 16, 2020)

one question I've got for you 618/101 owners - on the underside of the carriage, in the front on the apron, we have the half-nut engage/disengage lever.  On the underside of the apron below that lever (actually, the half-nut cam (M6-38)), is a hole for a 3/16" ball (p/n: 9-210), pressed in by a small spring (9-61).  These are to provide detents for the lever at each end of travel, I surmise. 

The hole they go up into is threaded, and I'm missing that item.  is it a set screw? some type of round head/fillister head screw?   and what are the dimensions?
#10-24 x 1/2"? 1/4"-20 x 3/8"


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## makeparts (Jan 16, 2020)

The only thing left, before mounting/leveling, is the headstock.  

I have the new sleeve and thrust bearings for the spindle, and found a replacement for the spindle cone pulley that is in very good shape.  and I have the sleeves for that as well.  interesting that it appears the largest sheave is about 3/32" diameter smaller than the original...

I've purposely not checked any clearance/fitment issues, as the new INA D-5 bearing from Clausing is significantly thicker than the original Nice 5774 bearing (see earlier post in the thread).

that way, I had the rest of it done, and any problems don't sit in my head...not much room in there as it is...


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## chippermat (Jan 16, 2020)

makeparts said:


> one question I've got for you 618/101 owners - on the underside of the carriage, in the front on the apron, we have the half-nut engage/disengage lever.  On the underside of the apron below that lever (actually, the half-nut cam (M6-38)), is a hole for a 3/16" ball (p/n: 9-210), pressed in by a small spring (9-61).  These are to provide detents for the lever at each end of travel, I surmise.
> 
> The hole they go up into is threaded, and I'm missing that item.  is it a set screw? some type of round head/fillister head screw?   and what are the dimensions?
> #10-24 x 1/2"? 1/4"-20 x 3/8"


Yes, [a 3/16" ball and] really short spring and screw, 1/4-20 IIRC


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## chippermat (Jan 16, 2020)

makeparts said:


> that gear lube is every bit as gooey and sticky as I thought it would be.  thank god for disposable rubber gloves.


 I have no doubt someone will be along shortly to point out that grease on the change gears will trap chips and "swarf" and thusly wear out the gears. Though I don't know what they'll recommend using. I just slather them liberally with 20wt.


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## wa5cab (Jan 16, 2020)

I have never actually seen one of the 6" carriages taken apart but according to the 3950 parts list (first one that shows the screw), the screw is 1/4"-20 x 3/16" Headless Cup Point.  It doesn't say slotted or Allen but Atlas would probably have used a slotted.  However, Allen will work as well.

Also, Atlas always recommended grease for any of the open gearing.  And SAE 20 everywhere else.  Oil also holds swarf.  And so long as you don't normally operate the machine with the gear or belt covers open, swarf won't get into the gears.


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## makeparts (Jan 17, 2020)

I've got a 1/4"-20 × 3/16" stainless headless screw in there now.  And wouldn't you know it, I found what looks like a 1/4"-20 × 3/32" slotted headless screw that i thought was smaller...and nothing else is missing a screw.

so that's what they must have had holding the half-nut engagement lever cam detent spring & ball.  woof that's a mouthful.

I've going to keep the grease on the open gears until I find a strong reason not to, but I understand the concern.

I'm hoping to head up to Penn. in the snow tomorrow to check out the cabin fever expo, so I'm on hold until Sunday.  

My target milestone is to have the headstock assembled and hopefully the lathe mounted and leveled before I go to bed on Sunday.


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## makeparts (Jan 19, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> I have never actually seen one of the 6" carriages taken apart but according to the 3950 parts list (first one that shows the screw), the screw is 1/4"-20 x 3/16" Headless Cup Point.  It doesn't say slotted or Allen but Atlas would probably have used a slotted.  However, Allen will work as well.
> 
> Also, Atlas always recommended grease for any of the open gearing.  And SAE 20 everywhere else.  Oil also holds swarf.  And so long as you don't normally operate the machine with the gear or belt covers open, swarf won't get into the gears.


I'm missing the grove pin for the countershaft rocker shaft.  Specifically, the pin NOT at the handle end (which appears to be shorter and smaller in diameter.  I've looked through a lot of manuals, can't find what Im looking for.

I was thinking about trying different size drills or transfer punches, to try and estimate what a good diameter would be...

anybody have any suggestions?


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## RobertB (Jan 19, 2020)

Nothing special, it's just a cotter pin.


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## makeparts (Jan 19, 2020)

RobertB said:


> Nothing special, it's just a cotter pin.
> 
> View attachment 311109


oh duh makes sense 
lol where did you find that picture?


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## RobertB (Jan 19, 2020)

makeparts said:


> oh duh makes sense
> lol where did you find that picture?



It's in the 1976 manual http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/51/3440.pdf
I don't think any of the earlier manuals actually ever showed the pin.


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## makeparts (Jan 20, 2020)

RobertB said:


> It's in the 1976 manual http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/51/3440.pdf
> I don't think any of the earlier manuals actually ever showed the pin.


I really appreciate you doing that, Robert.


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## makeparts (Jan 20, 2020)

Ok folks, I hit a wall tonight.

Spent about 4 hours cleaning, and trying to fit the head stock and spindle parts for assembly.  no joy. I was stumped.

took my time, lightly filed the burrs I found on the spindle (set screw damage from both bull and cone spindle pulley, the 2 keyways, and general abuse by some heavy handed PO) using a very light file, and some 400 grit, also very lightly), and checked the fit using the original sleeve bearings.

Installed the new headstock sleeve bearings into the headstock, which went pretty smoothly.

Then I installed new sleeve bearings for the new cone pulley I found (an M6-79, which I think was new old stock from somewhere, or lightly used.  it still has casting marks/seams in the pulley sheaves). Oiled them with spindle oil, and pushed them in with wood/small hammer and some by hand.  

I couldn't get this new spindle pulley with new sleeve bearings to fit on the spindle, although I didn't try very hard.  It seemed to me that the spindle is going to be as tight a press fit as the cone pulley was, for it's sleeve bearings installed.  the cone spindle pulley that came with the lathe seems to match the new pulley, but upon measuring, it is about 0.01" longer (end of gear to end of largest sheave). but the cone pulley sleeves pressed in about as I would have expected.  nice and snug, but moved when tapped with a dowel/wood, and small hammer.

I didn't want to address that problem at the time, as I wanted to go through the entire process of fitting everything, so I grabbed the original spindle pulley.  It slid on right up the shoulder of the bull gear diameter, possibly looser than I would want, but it would probably work fine.

I got the bull gear to slide on, and pressed the key into the keyway, and that all seemed to fit ok.  Same as the original cone spindle pulley - it was possibly looser than I expected, but it would move on the shaft, and I didn't really feel any considerable play.

Got the new thrust bearing, and pushed that on.  Rather snug fit, but it went on.

I then tried to go through the process of fitting it all together in the headstock, and for the life of me, the combination of the new bearing, new cone spindle pulley, and bull gear, barely fit into the headstock.  Forget about space to move the bull gear.  It has less than ~0.05" before it hits the indexing pin in the headstock.

The new INA D-5 bearing Clausing supplied is significantly thicker than the Nice 5774 that came with the lathe. So, I grabbed that bearing, and tried a test fit.

It's still way to tight, in my opinion.  No room in the headstock.  For sure there is no way I can get the bull gear key into it's keyway.

I checked the sleeve bearings - maybe they were protruding past the casting into the headstock space?...maybe .03-.05" for the left sleeve.  I remedied that with some gentle whacks on a dowel.  But it's still much too tight to get the bull gear key in (see pictures attached).

Also, the spindle is not fully inserted into the headstock, but that may be the issue of pressing the spindle into the inner race in the thrust bearing.

Either I've done something incredibly wrong or stupid, or maybe there is a version of the spindle pulley that is not as thick?  I probably spent too much time with it, and am rather tired.  But I made sure to stay patient and not rush or force anything... that said, I'm at a total loss as to what might be happening.

The picture below shows the orig. Nice thrust bearing, cone spindle pulley and bull gear all pushed as far over the left as possible.  With the indexing pin all the way out, it's still almost touching.

Ideas and suggestions are massively welcome here!


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## makeparts (Jan 20, 2020)

I sat down after dinner today, and looked at the headstock for about 10 minutes, and did a bunch of thought exercises... that cleared my head, and I was able to get the headstock assembled.

Major Milestone! 

For me, never having owned a lathe, and taking baggies/buckets of rusty parts, and turning it back into a hopefully soon-to-be-working machine is very rewarding.  I hope I didn't f*&^k anything up too badly in the process.

1) I pushed the left sleeve bearing into the headstock (outward away from center of headstock) by about 0.05"
2) I took my time and was able to rock the bull gear woodruff key into position. I have no idea how I made that happen, but Im glad I remembered to put the belt on, because I don't look forward to that process again soon.  Although by typing this, it's probably now assured...

It still seems like clearances are too tight, but I think everything functions properly with the back gears.  I don't believe the replacement S10F-91 will work, even though Clausing assured me it will.  There just isn't enough space, IMO.  it's super tight, without the additional thickness of the replacement bearing.

I found that the bull(back) gear pin detent ball (M6-214) is missing, and the spring (M6-257) is jammed down into the hole pretty good.  Im going to need a dental tool to get that out, probably. Anybody know the size of it?  is it a 1/8" steel ball?

The headstock indexing pin (L9-42) is a bit worn, and even then is very close to the bull gear.  I guess my question here is, how far to the right away from the spindle pulley does the bull (back) gear need to be, in order for it to be considered safely disengaged? (the below pics show the back gear in both engaged and disengaged positions)




Is this far enough away to be considered safely disengaged?



At the Cabin Fever Expo, in the consignment sales section, I found a full M6-20BX countershaft assembly, and grabbed it.  This will allow me to mount the motor inboard of the countershaft bracket, since it's a NEMA 48, and the little L9-20A is too small to get that motor underneath it without a platform that I didn't want to build.  You can see both side by side, in one of the attached pics, for scale.


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## chippermat (Jan 31, 2020)

I would use the original thrust bearing and cone pulley. Push the bull gear to the left and tighten its set scew. Looks to me like it will work fine.


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## chippermat (Jan 31, 2020)

Those clearances look identical to mine.


makeparts said:


> The picture below shows the orig. Nice thrust bearing, cone spindle pulley and bull gear all pushed as far over the left as possible.  With the indexing pin all the way out, it's still almost touching.
> 
> View attachment 311200


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## chippermat (Jan 31, 2020)

Oh, do you think the bull gear slides left to engage the cone pulley and right to disengage it? Actually the set screw locks the bull gear to the spindle shaft, and the bull gear doesn't move. (Edit to add: from what I understand; I haven't been able to figure out the set screw on mine..long story. Nonetheless, the bull gear is stationary on the shaft)

What locks the bull gear to the cone pulley to "engage" it, is the pin M6-256. Move the pin to the left to lock the bull gear to the cone pulley, for direct drive. Move the pin to the right to unlock the bull gear from the cone pulley, for using the back gears.



makeparts said:


> I found that the bull(back) gear pin detent ball (M6-214) is missing, and the spring (M6-257) is jammed down into the hole pretty good. Im going to need a dental tool to get that out, probably. Anybody know the size of it? is it a 1/8" steel ball?


Yes it is a 1/8" steel ball.


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## phubbman (Feb 3, 2020)

You found the countershaft assembly at a consignment sale?  You're living right, my friend.


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## makeparts (Feb 11, 2020)

chippermat said:


> Oh, do you think the bull gear slides left to engage the cone pulley and right to disengage it? Actually the set screw locks the bull gear to the spindle shaft, and the bull gear doesn't move. (Edit to add: from what I understand; I haven't been able to figure out the set screw on mine..long story. Nonetheless, the bull gear is stationary on the shaft)
> 
> What locks the bull gear to the cone pulley to "engage" it, is the pin M6-256. Move the pin to the left to lock the bull gear to the cone pulley, for direct drive. Move the pin to the right to unlock the bull gear from the cone pulley, for using the back gears.
> 
> Yes it is a 1/8" steel ball.


so, yeah, I thought the bull gear is what slides back and forth to engage the back gears.  are you saying I leave the spindle and cone pulley set in position, and only use the 256 pin to engage/disengage?  does the spindle cone pulley sit up against the thrust bearing? and how much clearance between the spindle cone pulley and the bull/back gear? like 1/32" or something?

I haven't had any further progress with the lathe, as I've been pretty busy with life and other projects.  Im hoping to get back to it in a week or two.


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## makeparts (Feb 11, 2020)

phubbman said:


> You found the countershaft assembly at a consignment sale?  You're living right, my friend.


lol yeah I guess so.  It was at the Cabin Fever Expo, in the consignment sales section - basically a machinist consignment sale

I was surprised when I saw it, as I wanted one to fit my larger than OEM motor...it had the M6 part numbers, and I basically carried it around to check the rest of the sales items, as I thought maybe there were other 618/101 parts.  

The sleeve bearings were worn so bad there was a 1/16" gap, at least, between the shaft and the sleeve - the sleeve closest to the motor pulley was worn in a teardrop shape!  But the rest of the assembly was all there, and in really good shape (minus 2 set screws). Some folks were selling entire machines, in various but mostly functional states, but hell, I just restored one...


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## wa5cab (Feb 11, 2020)

Makeparts,

Sounds as though a previous owner didn't believe in ever oiling anything.  If you have time, maybe after you have rebuilt the countershaft assembly but before you have started trying to install it, could you take a photograph of it looking at it from the tailstock end but as though you were standing in front of the tailstock, so that it shows part of the front surfaces just a little?

Assuming that it is the first countershaft revisions (second version) the bracket should be L9-20A and the hanger assembly (includes the cone pulley) should stick up above the bracket instead of hanging down like the third version.


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## wa5cab (Feb 11, 2020)

makeparts said:


> so, yeah, I thought the bull gear is what slides back and forth to engage the back gears.  are you saying I leave the spindle and cone pulley set in position, and only use the 256 pin to engage/disengage?  does the spindle cone pulley sit up against the thrust bearing? and how much clearance between the spindle cone pulley and the bull/back gear? like 1/32" or something?
> 
> I haven't had any further progress with the lathe, as I've been pretty busy with life and other projects.  I'm hoping to get back to it in a week or two.



No, the bull gear is fixed on the spindle.  The small spindle gear (sold and numbered as though it were a part of the cone pulley) apparently sits up against the thrust bearing.  Assuming that all else is the same as on the 618 (except for the absence of a collar with set screws between the bearing and gear), the clearance between the bearing and gear should be 0.003" to 0.005".  Apparently, that clearance is set by loosening the set screw in the bull gear and sliding the bull gear towards the pulley.  And unlike with all of the roller bearing headstocks except the 6" MK2, you can actually use a feeler gauge to set it.  Slide a 0.003" feeler gauge down between the small gear and the thrust bearing, hold the bull gear against the pulley, tighten the set screw, and confirm that the clearance is less than 0.006"


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## makeparts (Feb 12, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> No, the bull gear is fixed on the spindle.  The small spindle gear (sold and numbered as though it were a part of the cone pulley) apparently sits up against the thrust bearing.  Assuming that all else is the same as on the 618 (except for the absence of a collar with set screws between the bearing and gear), the clearance between the bearing and gear should be 0.003" to 0.005".  Apparently, that clearance is set by loosening the set screw in the bull gear and sliding the bull gear towards the pulley.  And unlike with all of the roller bearing headstocks except the 6" MK2, you can actually use a feeler gauge to set it.  Slide a 0.003" feeler gauge down between the small gear and the thrust bearing, hold the bull gear against the pulley, tighten the set screw, and confirm that the clearance is less than 0.006"


on my lathe the spindle gear IS part of the cone pulley...but this clears up a LOT for me thank you! I'll post some pics of the countershaft shortly.


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## wa5cab (Feb 12, 2020)

OK.

While you have your camera out, take a top view photo of the headstock on the 101.07301 showing spindle and back gears with everything installed except the belt guard.  I have never come across such a photo.  It would clearly show that there isn't any sleeve bearing equivalent to the M6-89 collar. Also, something to show if possible how the fixed and rotating parts of the thrust bearing are forced to be fixed and rotating, if there is any such thing.


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## wa5cab (Feb 12, 2020)

Also, thanks for confirming that on the 6", the spindle cone pulley and small spindle gear are one piece.  That isn't the case on the 10" and all of the 12".  So it wasn't clear on the 6" whether the pulley and gear were actually cast as one piece or that you just couldn't buy the separate parts..


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## makeparts (Feb 12, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> Makeparts,
> 
> Sounds as though a previous owner didn't believe in ever oiling anything.  If you have time, maybe after you have rebuilt the countershaft assembly but before you have started trying to install it, could you take a photograph of it looking at it from the tailstock end but as though you were standing in front of the tailstock, so that it shows part of the front surfaces just a little?
> 
> Assuming that it is the first countershaft revisions (second version) the bracket should be L9-20A and the hanger assembly (includes the cone pulley) should stick up above the bracket instead of hanging down like the third version.


I must have perhaps a newer version, as it's part numbers M6-20B, and M6-21...I think this is the one that hangs down, if Im not mistaken.


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## makeparts (Feb 12, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> OK.
> 
> While you have your camera out, take a top view photo of the headstock on the 101.07301 showing spindle and back gears with everything installed except the belt guard.  I have never come across such a photo.  It would clearly show that there isn't any sleeve bearing equivalent to the M6-89 collar. Also, something to show if possible how the fixed and rotating parts of the thrust bearing are forced to be fixed and rotating, if there is any such thing.


I'll get the downfacing headstock image in a bit - here are some pics of the bearing...
the rotating race protrudes from the body, with a smaller race OD, on the side of the bearing with a bevel in the outer casing. this faces the tailstock.
the stationary race that sits against the left inner face of the headstock has a larger OD, and the casing doesn't have the same pronounced bevel, and also protrudes slightly from the outer casing.

you can see the rotating race in the pic with the 2 bearings, and the stationary race is in the other pic, with the single bearing shown on it's edge

(the races have slightly different ID's which I think are meant to provide the thrust on the spindle?).  If you look earlier in the thread, the NICE bearing drawings from Clausing show this detail.


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## makeparts (Feb 12, 2020)

here's a headstock pic looking straight down.  note, I haven't set the .003 clearance on the bull/back gear yet, tho


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## wa5cab (Feb 12, 2020)

Yes, that is the third version, shipped with most 618's but for some unknown reason, not with the 101.07301.  The hanger assemblies are the same.  And the third version seems to be much easier to find than the second shorter version.  It will work fine with the 101.07301, and we have the bench-mounted installation instructions for it.  The only maybe disadvantage is that a larger diameter motor may fit under the 2nd version but I'm not certain of that.


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## makeparts (Feb 12, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> Yes, that is the third version, shipped with most 618's but for some unknown reason, not with the 101.07301.  The hanger assemblies are the same.  And the third version seems to be much easier to find than the second shorter version.  It will work fine with the 101.07301, and we have the bench-mounted installation instructions for it.  The only maybe disadvantage is that a larger diameter motor may fit under the 2nd version but I'm not certain of that.


I did some playing around to mock it up - I think I can make it work with my larger motor.  I would have preferred the other version but that's ok...


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## wa5cab (Feb 12, 2020)

I can see an M6-253 Collar to the right of the back gear.  Is there another one to the left of it?  And are there two M6-255 Fiber Washers, one at either end of the back gear, or only one as some of the parts drawings show?


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## makeparts (Feb 13, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> I can see an M6-253 Collar to the right of the back gear.  Is there another one to the left of it?  And are there two M6-255 Fiber Washers, one at either end of the back gear, or only one as some of the parts drawings show?


Yes, there is an M6-253 collar on the back gear shaft, at the left end, inside the headstock.  I also added 2 of the 4 M5-255 fiber washers I purchased at the left end for spacing, but I may move 1 of them - put it at the right end...I haven't really played with the final positioning of the headstock parts yet.  I'll add another top down pic of the headstock, taken more to the change gears end, to show that stuff, later today if I can.


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## wa5cab (Feb 14, 2020)

OK.  Thanks.  Or maybe two photos, one slightly to the right and one slightly to the left of center.

The back gear assembly as far as I can tell, and most of the rest of the lathe outside of the headstock and the countershaft bracket is exactly the same as the 618.  Exceptions that I know of so far are the countershaft bracket, for some unknown reason the lead screw, and a few other parts around and about.  If you look in downloads, and get the 101.07301 parts manual and the 1920 dated 628 manual and compare them, you will see what I mean.  If the part number on the Craftsman list begins with an "L" and a digit, it is somehow different.  If it begins with M6, it is the same.

Which reminds me, if you or anyone else has occasion to have the lead screw off of either a 618 or a 101.07301, measure the LOA and the length from the left end to the left face of the collar and report it here.

Back to the back gears, it would appear that the correct location for the two M6-255 Fiber Washers is on on each end of the gear, between the collar and the gear.


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## chippermat (Feb 19, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> OK.  Thanks.  Or maybe two photos, one slightly to the right and one slightly to the left of center.
> 
> Which reminds me, if you or anyone else has occasion to have the lead screw off of either a 618 or a 101.07301, measure the LOA and the length from the left end to the left face of the collar and report it here.


Maybe these will help. Just used a tape measure on the lead screw.


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## wa5cab (Feb 19, 2020)

Thanks.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Feb 19, 2020)

doing a great job! I rebuilt one of those before I got my 618. The thrust bearing can be rebuilt - I carefully pried the dust shield off of mine, flushed out the old grease and repacked it. Felt just fine to me, though I'm doubting you'd want to push the spindle out a second time 

For setting the bull gear to spindle pulley gap, a piece of printer paper does the trick, that's about 4 thou give or take. Then rotate the spindle pulley without the bull gear pin engaged to check for any rubbing. There are 4 spots in the spindle pulley the pin can go in, make sure it's all the way in or it can damage the pulley.

I like my 618 a great deal and would have been more than happy to have the 301 instead if the 618 hadn't of shown up for a good price.


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