# Clausing 6307 lathe



## boneyard51 (Jan 24, 2021)

I aquired a Clausing 6307 12 inch lathe some time ago. It sounds like the spindle bearing are rough. Could be another bearing, but sounds like the spindle making the noise. I went to a site quoting bearings for this and other lathes and one bearing was $1200! And I need two, 045-003 and 045-004. I have not removed these bearings so I don’t know their make up or dimensions. But has anyone subituted a common bearing for these” Zero, tolerance “ bearings? Any help will be appreciated!






Bones


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## Martin W (Jan 24, 2021)

Bones
are the bearing #,s Clausing numbers? Or do you know if that is the number etched on the bearing race? I have had good luck cross referencing numbers with other manufacturers. That being said, they are still going to be expensive.
Cheers
Martin


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## boneyard51 (Jan 24, 2021)

Those are the Clausing numbers,  I have not pulled the bearings out to see the numbers.  If the bearings are going to be real expensive, I’ll just change the oil, put in additives and listen to the noise. I just play with my lathe. Once I get the bearing number and or dimensions I‘m good to go as I have a set of cross over number books and a design and dimension book. Back in my productive days I used to change bearings to increase strength, mainly on farm tractor spindles. They broke a lot after the big hay bales came out!







Bones


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## wa5cab (Jan 24, 2021)

If you go to a bearing supplier and give them the cup and cone part numbers, they will probably quote Class 2 and you can expect to pay around $200 for a cup and cone.  Atlas and presumably Clausing supplied Class 3 bearings at least for the spindle and you can expect to pay $300 to $500 for each cup and cone.  If you only pay $100 or less (for one cup and one cone), you are probably getting Class 4 or worse (which Timken claims not even to make) and the bearings will have been made in China, India or elsewhere.


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## Shootymacshootface (Feb 1, 2021)

Hi boneyard51, I have a 6329. It is very similar to your lathe. What oil is supposed to be in these lathes? I know there is gear lube in my gearbox, I put it there. The headstock has the right amount of I don't know what in it. It gets warm rather quickly when run at it's higher speeds.


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## boneyard51 (Feb 2, 2021)

Shootymacshootface said:


> Hi boneyard51, I have a 6329. It is very similar to your lathe. What oil is supposed to be in these lathes? I know there is gear lube in my gearbox, I put it there. The headstock has the right amount of I don't know what in it. It gets warm rather quickly when run at it's higher speeds.


I’m really not sure what oil is recommended. But lathes are just machines! Nothing different than any other gear box. They are all made out of metal.  I would have no problem putting any good quality gear oil in a lathe that has gears only! If it has clutches.... well, you should put what is recommended . Bones


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## Shootymacshootface (Feb 2, 2021)

Since reading your posting, I have been poking around looking at oil that could be used in a lathe headstock. It looks like the choices are, synthetic spindle/turbine oil (expensive), an ISO hydraulic oil (spendy but affordable), or a mineral oil, which is what was originally recommended back in the 50s and 60s. Non detergent of course.
 I will see what is available from Tractor Supply. 
I think what I want is ISO 46 hydraulic oil


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## boneyard51 (Feb 2, 2021)

Shootymacshootface said:


> Since reading your posting, I have been poking around looking at oil that could be used in a lathe headstock. It looks like the choices are, synthetic spindle/turbine oil (expensive), an ISO hydraulic oil (spendy but affordable), or a mineral oil, which is what was originally recommended back in the 50s and 60s. Non detergent of course.
> I will see what is available from Tractor Supply.
> I think what I want is ISO 46 hydraulic oil


Hydraulic oil, has a different job to do! It actually has several jobs to do, one is transferring energy. This is not necessary in a lathe head gear box. Don’t over think it. When I redo my Clausing 6307 I will fill the headstock gear box with 60 weight Harley Davidson oil! Why? Because I have a bunch I don’t need anymore, as I don’t ride my Shovelhead much anymore. Hydraulic oil is not as “ slippery “ as engine oil or gear oil. Use what is best for the gears! Not a compromise!





Bones


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## wa5cab (Feb 3, 2021)

FWIW, ISO 68 is generally considered equivalent to SAE 20.  ISO 46 falls right at the lower end of SAE 20.


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## Jim F (Feb 3, 2021)

boneyard51 said:


> Hydraulic oil, has a different job to do! It actually has several jobs to do, one is transferring energy. This is not necessary in a lathe head gear box. Don’t over think it. When I redo my Clausing 6307 I will fill the headstock gear box with 60 weight Harley Davidson oil! Why? Because I have a bunch I don’t need anymore, as I don’t ride my Shovelhead much anymore. Hydraulic oil is not as “ slippery “ as engine oil or gear oil. Use what is best for the gears! Not a compromise!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Engine oil is not a good thing to use .........


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## boneyard51 (Feb 3, 2021)

Jim F said:


> Engine oil is not a good thing to use .........


Why is that! Back in the sixties Case tractor recommended it for the gear boxes in their tractors at 100 horsepower.




Bones


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## Jim F (Feb 3, 2021)

boneyard51 said:


> Why is that! Back in the sixties Case tractor recommended it for the gear boxes in their tractors at 100 horsepower.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Engine oil is engineered to hold particulates.


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## Dabbler (Feb 4, 2021)

@boneyard51 Hydraulic oil is engineered to protect hydraulic pumps and provide lubrication.  Leblond lathes use the same hydraulic oil  to lube the gears as to shift them.  BTW weight of the oil has never equated to lubricity. 

I have had to research this extensively, along with getting the best advice from lube specialists.  The reason for heavy oil in older vehicles' gear boxes is to provide stiction which is now done by modern additives.  In the 60s that was the best they had.

Hydraulic oil deteriorates less quickly in shear as in gear pumps than motor oils,  which as Jim F suggests are engineered with surfactants to keep the particulates suspended so that they can be carried to the filter.* Use whatever you like*, as any oil is better than nothing.  The surfactants reduce the useful life of the oil.

One last interesting point:  surfactants make the oil more hydrophylic, that is, to absorb water.  Not the best for a lathe gear box with long intervals for oil changes.  * If you use motor oil, remember to change it regularly.*

After all that checking, I use ISO 68 hydraulic oil in all my machine tools gearboxes, aprons and gear heads.


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## boneyard51 (Feb 4, 2021)

Dabbler said:


> @boneyard51 Hydraulic oil is engineered to protect hydraulic pumps and provide lubrication.  Leblond lathes use the same hydraulic oil  to lube the gears as to shift them.  BTW weight of the oil has never equated to lubricity.
> 
> I have had to research this extensively, along with getting the best advice from lube specialists.  The reason for heavy oil in older vehicles' gear boxes is to provide stiction which is now done by modern additives.  In the 60s that was the best they had.
> 
> ...


I do agree that oils have changed from the old days, some of these changes in my mind, are not improvements!  But a couple of things, lathes are nothing special, they are just a gear box, some with clutches some not, just like the automotive transmissions. I do understand stand that engine oil is designed to to be changed, but that is mainly due to the fact it is contaminated by the combustion process, not present in the lathe gear box. Also the demands on the oil in an engine can be extreme, one thing is the oil is under pressure and is driven through either a gear or vane pump millions of times between oil changes, and it survives this!  If you get the motor oil designEd for flat tappet cams, it has the extreme pressure additive.  You cannot clump all engine oils together anymore due to the large variety and major changes in them, especially recently. What type of oil to use where has been long argued and conclusions usually differ between folks and even large companies for  the same application.
But like you said, any is better than none! Any seeing what comes out of some old lathes, I figure they would be happy with any new clean oil! Lol 






Bones


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## Dabbler (Feb 5, 2021)

One last comment:  Extreme pressure additives, if they contain sulphur, will erode your brass/bronze parts commonly found in the headstock of a lathe.  All the best!


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## Shootymacshootface (Feb 5, 2021)

I just finished up a lathe project with brand new ISO 68 hydraulic oil in my headstock. I would honestly say that it is 50% quieter and the spindle bearing that always gets warm at higher speeds did not get warmer than anything else.
My owners manual says to put 80w hypoid gear oil in the other gear boxes, so I wont make any changes there. 
I don't know what it had for oil in it, but it was dark and smelly.


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## wa5cab (Feb 8, 2021)

Or more correctly, High Detergent engine oil should be avoided.  Straight SAE graded oil is OK if the proper weight.  If Harley 60 wt is HD, for engines, it will contain detergents or additives that among other things, absorb moisture from the atmosphere.  In an IC engine, this is good as it keeps the engine from rusting when it cools off and is boiled out the tailpipe the next time that you run the engine.  But in a lathe, the gear box won't ever get hot enough to get rid of the trapped water.


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## machPete99 (Feb 14, 2021)

For the 5900 series headstock Mobil DTE25 is recommended, and DTE26 for the apron.
There can be gotten on ebay in smaller quantities.


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