# Installing "z" axis power feed question



## drs23 (Apr 30, 2014)

Hi guys-N-gals,

This unit walked in the door earlier this week:





I'm in the process of installing it and it's my first power feed installation and have a question.

There's a gap of .102" between the housing of the power feed and the casting of the mill:





Should I turn this part down to close the gap? :





Is seems like a lot larger gap than was there with the dial originally and seems like chips would make their way into the bearings if left like this.

Would this be one of the "modifications perhaps needed" referred in the destructions?

Thanks,

Dale


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## deezldub (May 1, 2014)

Dale,
I'd just run a bead of RTV around that gap if everything bolts up fine.

Todd


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## xalky (May 1, 2014)

deezldub said:


> Dale,
> I'd just run a bead of RTV around that gap if everything bolts up fine.
> 
> Todd


I'd second that!

I have that same power feed on my bridgeport knee. The gap on mine is only about .040". If everything else bolts up fine, leave it alone and caulk it.


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## george wilson (May 2, 2014)

I would not go altering any parts unless you have a very careful understanding of possible consequences.

Is there really a gap,or is the "gap" just where the blue steel ring mates up to the power feed unit? What if the power feed fails,and you have to return the mill to its former configuration,with the altered part?

I haven't applied a power feed to my mill. Just advising caution doing alterations.


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## smallfly (May 3, 2014)

just a side note--in the case of a bp  mill --if u remove that black--retaining ring holding the brg in place --the shaft and brg assem will slide out of mill.  now the unshielded  brg.  which u have shown can be replaced with sealed brg.  sooooo  then why worry about a gap  or  swarth gettin down in the . the brg. is sealed and lubed.  just sayinn.  my $  .02  .  hope this helps.  re  steve  in  mt.


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## drs23 (May 3, 2014)

Thanks for the replies fellows. I went  back and checked it out in more detail. Upon disassembly I was able to determine it's machined surface to machined surface so there's no way debris can get in there.

Guess I just panicked Willy-Nilly on my first install.

It's all done now and working perfectly. Not so much "getting my crank on" now. 

I like it!


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## bfd (Jan 5, 2017)

I would probably make a shim to mate up flush piece if 10 gauge sheet metal would be about right maybe 12 gauge. bill


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