# SB Rehab/Restoration



## Kroll

Afternoon guys,well this weekend I started providing my labor for pay restoring a 10L SB that is going to help fund my Clausing.I started disassembling the lathe on Friday and I think that someone may have started before me cause all the screws,gears,etc came apart very easy,no problems what so ever,then took apart the taper attachment down to the last taper pin.

Started with the tailstock,layed it out on some cardboard and procided taking it apart,then the head removing the spindle and backgear,again all very easy.Layed it out in order on a piece of cardboard,then work on the bed.Guys I use some of that Purple Power cleaner and it works great letting it soak for afew hrs.

I have one of those cheap power washers so I use it to remove the cleaner and grease,shavens,then a bird flew over and add bird poop to the list.
Guys I wanted to remove the chip pan cause it was full of gunk,but I be dang that thing was welded in several place which took a good part of 4hrs to remove it,then apply the cleaner and use a scrub brush then the power washer.
Today I spent time putting some primer on the tailstock,taper attachment,bed.I just use a brush cause I did not want to thin the primer down to spray.This will be the first coat of primer which I will sand down alittle then spray the sec coat trying to even it out some.

- - - Updated - - -

Ran out of room in the first post,so here is one more pic which is it for today cause I'm tired as heck,it was a good weekend got alot done.Guys I did purchase the book with all the wick material,that book is fantastic so thanks for the suggestions and thanks for looking---kroll


- - - Updated - - -

Ran out of room in the first post,so here is one more pic which is it for today cause I'm tired as heck,it was a good weekend got alot done.Guys I did purchase the book with all the wick material,that book is fantastic so thanks for the suggestions and thanks for looking---kroll


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## Topstrap

Will be following this thread as you progress. Just got my own 10L and hopefully someday to do the same to it. Everyone says they are pretty easy to disassemble and restore but always intimidating when you attempt something for the first time.

Looking forward to pictures and commentary.

Topstrap


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## cbtrek

I will also be following your restoration. I really enjoy seeing them look like new again, ready for many more years of parts Made In America!


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## ScrapMetal

I've just got to ask, what is that doohickey sitting between the apron and the threading dial?  Something like a Trav-a-dial maybe?

I look forward to watching this one come together.

-Ron


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## woodtickgreg

Subscribed! I'll be watching this one as well.:thumbsup:


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## Kroll

Guys here's a pic of what I tried to post yesterday but keep messing it up,showing alittle primering using a brush.Having to fill several pin holes in the casting,doing the bed is kinda hard due to the hard spots.

Ron,I really don't know what it is other than a dial to let you know how far in/out you more the carriage.There is a wheel that rides up again the ways,but I don't know what the hand dial is for.Maybe someone will let us know,its well made and pretty nice just waiting for me to clean it up some.

Thanks for looking,if any advice please let me know----kroll


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## ScrapMetal

Yep, that's a Trav-a-Dial.  Kind of a fore-runner to the DRO.  I think you can still find parts for them if they are needed - http://www.buytrak.com/home.php?cat=6 or on e-bay.  Cool little device.

-Ron


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## Kernbigo

What are you using to clean the parts and the casting ? Also what kind of paint is it a rattle can and what color?


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## Bill C.

ScrapMetal said:


> I've just got to ask, what is that doohickey sitting between the apron and the threading dial?  Something like a Trav-a-dial maybe?
> 
> I look forward to watching this one come together.
> 
> -Ron



It turned out to be a dial indicator in a later photo.  He is going to have a nice looking machine when he finishes.


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## Pacer

As mentioned that is indeed a 'Travadial' or 'Trav-A-Dial' (you see it both ways) They are a _great_ accessory. My first "real" lathe (a 12x36) I installed one on it and immediately fell in love with it. Like a regular dial indicator, you rotate the bezel to zero and the knob to zero, turn the apron wheel and it starts reading off the travel. When properly set up (not unlike a DRO) it is dead on accurate.

I moved to another lathe letting my travadial go when I sold the lathe. On the new lathe I added a DRO but I still miss the travadial! 

Travadials were/are mounted on many machines that had movement - X & Y on mills, surface grinders. etc.

Used ones on ebay are still quite pricy or Id be tempted to add one to my lathe.

Kroll, when/if you reinstall it on the SB, it will need to be calibrated/adjusted similar to a DRO to be accurate.


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## Kroll

Happy Thanksgiving,mine don't start till tonight so in the meantime I thought I would work on the cabinet.Dang its hard getting to the rust,peeling paint on the inside of the cabinet and corners using my wire wheel.Mostly just surface rust but on the tubing where it was in contact with the floor there is some pitting but I guess alittle bondo will handle that.Any tricks on cleaning the inside and keeping rust from coming back till the paint,or rust inhibitor to help block the rust from coming back???Its setting by the garage door cause thats where my little welder is so tomorrow I will work on plugging the holes and do some more grinding w/wire wheel.----kroll
Sorry about the pics being that way,one day I will figure this out


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## Kroll

Guys,since joining here I have ask questions but never provided answers to other questions other than my opinion and not from experience.Its about to change, Kernbigo ask acouple of questions and its nice to give an answer.But first today I plug the holes using 16ga metal then weld it with the mig,I'm no welder but thats why there's bondo.

kernbigo to answer your question I use this product,its powerful so use the vinyl gloves.I pour it in a container then bout 1/4-1/2 water.Most of the time I will mix up afew plastic containers and let the parts soak over night.In most cases it will remove the paint,then I will use a small wire brush to get into the corners and just go over the parts.Lowes and HD carrys it but HD only has it in 2.5gals I buy the 5gals.


Now for yrs and I say about 20 machines later(woodworking) I have this product and it is very good and not to expensive bout 30 gal,but that was up until now.


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## Kroll

While I love this paint even over time it will still scratch alittle and I know that over time it gets harder and that is great.
But,since I'm restoring this SB for the owner who also purchase my Atlas/Sears lathe and my 1950's BS which he also wanted them to match the SB's color.So he purchase the paint and I had mention that I like sW's paint so I though he was buying the same paint that I always use but he came with a paint that is awhole lot better.To me it looks as close to epoxy paint without it being epoxy paint,now it does cost more bout 50-60 gal but it is a DTM paint but I like to use primer anyway,it just adds thickness.

Guys I know it cost more but dang after hrs of doing all this work I want the paint to look as good and be as good as can be.Myself I will use up the paint that I have on hand to do maybe inside of metal cabinets and afew other things but that will be all.After its gone,from now own I will use the Sher-kem.
OK heres acouple of pics that I use the new paint on which going by the sheet thin it down 10-20% spraying only has to be above 60*.

Guys thanks for letting me share-----kroll


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## Walt

Kroll said:


> Any tricks on cleaning the inside and keeping rust from coming back till the paint,or rust inhibitor to help block the rust from coming back???



For inside the tubes:

http://kk.org/cooltools/archives/3778

Walt


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## Chainsaw Driver

Great looking work, I'm looking forward to watching your progress.  I really appreciate all the photos.


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## Alphawolf45

It is a monumental task to pull one all down and clean ,prepare and re-paint.. Got to be terrible ugly before I will do it.. But its a good opportunity to fix bushings. loose shafts ,seals, wicks.


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## Kroll

Afternoon guys,today was a good day to work off some of those extra helpings of ham/turkey.Been working on the cabinet preping it for primer over a 3 day span putting the finishing touches all day friday and most of the day today.First I move it into the spray booth(outdoors) then gave it a good rub down with xylene then just let it seat for bout 1hr.This is the first coat of maybe 3,we'll see how it goes after 2 then see if 3rd will be needed.2rd coat won't come till Monday afternoon,have to wait 48hrs till the next coat can be applyed.Dang talk about the first coat showing all the faults and afew runs to go with it.I fudge alittle on the side where the drawers are,I just could not remove all the paint so I remove all that was loose then sand by hand and a block using 80grit.Pics for entertainment,thanks for looking----kroll


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## stevecmo

Kroll,

Looking good!  I certainly relate to all the work you are putting into this refurb.  I know the owner will be grateful.  Keep the progress pic's coming!

Steve


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## drs23

Kroll that's looking great. I think you'll make the owner proud. Great job!


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## Kroll

Afternoon,for me it was a good afternoon cause I was able to get afew things done.Sunday afternoon since the Texans loss again I went out and wire wheeled the chip pan of all the rust and some of the paint then put a coat of primer on it.

Guys removing the chip pan was a pain,welded in several places and couple I could not get to with my die grinder w/cutoff wheel.So on the sides I had to cut the 1/4 banding strip right at the legs so that I could get it off.But as you can see it lined back up perfectly.Weld it up then use the grinder to smooth it out.



Clean up the welds then apply a coat of primer,on Wednesday if the weather is good I plan on putting the final coat (I hope) of primer on the cabinet and miscellaneous parts.We'll see,thanks for looking----kroll


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## Kroll

This afternoon work schedule was short due to mosquitos,boy are they bad but I hope that I applied the last coat of primer on these parts.I do have the bed done but have yet to start on the carriage nor the QCGB.Saving these till last cause what I have now is taking up the whole shop.Due to the weather forcast its going to be bad for the next 7 days.So I may be taking a break till then,anyway here couple of pics and thanks for looking---kroll


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## cuseguy

I don't envy you, having done this dance more than a few times! I admit I enjoy doing it, but my wife and family maybe not so much, as I tend to  disappear for days. I just finished one, so my recollections are fresh. 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


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## Kroll

I'm starting to feel the pain and lots of hrs,not near the 100 hr mark yet.I'm still gun hole and its looking pretty good so far,but then again I'm only in the primer stages right now.Keep looking for the white flag----kroll


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## cuseguy

Kroll said:


> I'm starting to feel the pain and lots of hrs,not near the 100 hr mark yet.I'm still gun hole and its looking pretty good so far,but then again I'm only in the primer stages right now.Keep looking for the white flag----kroll



Nah, I don't see you waving a white flag. It's coming nicely. The good thing is that you'll take what you learn and do an even better job when you get your own. Every machine seems to have little secrets that you learn along the way. But your work looks pretty top-notch already.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


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## Kroll

Afternoon guys,its been awhile but today was a fantastic day for painting the cabinet and afew parts so I loaded them in my outdoor paint booth.As you can see in the pics I have the cabinet upside down and I hope that I was able to do a good painting job but I really won't know till I get it right side up.Why upside down you ask,good question as most knows that the motor mounting parts plus the motor I think weights more than the rest of the lathe.Those parts are a beast,so I am going to try and put all that togeather and set it in place bolt it down.I don't know what size the motor is(maybe 1hp) but it has the size of a 5hp and maybe weights more,so I will set it in place and bolt it down to the motor mounting plate.Hope the milk crates hold up to the weight,but I am going to use the hoist to lift it up then seat it down on something soft so it won't scratch and see if I can lay it over on the back side then hopefully set it upright.(Wishful thinking)Once upright then I may need to apply a good second coat.I do have the rolled edge of the chip pan tape off cause the owner want the top side of the chip pan to be blue as the doors and drawers.Anyway thanks guys and please critque this so that all can learn something---kroll


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## Kroll

Morning guys,hope all had a good safe Christmas I did cause my kids and grand kids had a good Merry Christmas.Well I started back on the lathe and wanted to finish up on the motor mount section and get the motor mounted and line up with the pulleys while I have it upside down.Question:The motor pulley(duel)and the pulley(also duel)that drives the flat belt to the spindle is also setup for a flat belt but its about 3/4 wide belt so can I just take a serpentine belt and use it?The pulley on the motor has sides but the bigger pulley for the spindle is just flat.
Now looking at the pics of the motor one of the feet has broken off back I guess some time ago and it has been working so I am going to give it a try to see if it will work for me.More pics to come cause I have afew days off,Yahoooooo.Thanks for any help or suggestions---kroll


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## cuseguy

I mounted my motor and the mounting carriage with the stand upside-down also. Let gravity do the work for you
The broken motor mount  should be okay as long as the other 3 are intact.  Not ideal, but I agree that I would try to work with it since it seemed to be fine in the past. Many of us use serpentine belts to the headstock and I see no reason you can't use one from the drive pulley to the motor pulley, as long as the width is comparable. 
I actually have to do some belt work today on my 1984 10L that is at my business. I generally use the stitch method of joining my serpentine by using 30lb test fishing line. The line itself never fails but eventually the stitching rips through the belt, generally about every 6 months. But I hate hearing the "click-click" noise from gator clips or from the thickness of skivved belts touching the inside of the headstock. Some people have success with gluing serpentine belts, but I have tried it in every way possible and it never seems to hold up. But then again, I put alot of hours on my 10L cutting T316 stainless. My home machine, the '79 Heavy 10, that I just restored, uses the same belt method but should hold up better since it gets easier use, making aluminum and delrin prototypes. Every belt option for the undermount SB's has some drawbacks, it seems. 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


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## Kroll

Guys I just took a closer look at the pulley that goes on the motor and it looks like it has a taper.At the base of the pulley its 3/8 wide,at the top of the pulley its 5/8 wide which at the base of the pulley its not much for a flat serpentine belt.So if this takes a V-belt how does it stay on the drive pulley(Tks Cuseguy) or what kind of belt goes on it that will work??----kroll


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## cuseguy

They take a standard v-belt. Looking at both of mine, they appear to be the same. Unfortunately the writing is worn off both and I can't give you the brand or #. It appears to be 32-36 inches long and is 5/8" width on the fat side of the v. I have also run one of the adjustable link belts on my old 10k that had the same pulleys that you have and that worked really well. Harbor Freight sells one for under $20. Here is the v-belt and few of the left over links from the link belt. 
	

		
			
		

		
	




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


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## cuseguy

I'm running to NAPA right now to grab the serp belt for my 10L, since mine is now too short to restitch. I'll see if they know a belt # comparable to this v-belt. 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


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## cuseguy

NAPA said my v-belt is a Browning Super Grip B41. 41 being the length in inches.  I only have the single speed motor pulley on both of my 10L's though. So not sure of the length you would need with the 2 speed pulley. 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


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## Kroll

Guys yesterday afternoon the paint was drying so I decided to make a cover for the motor junction box,the original is MIA.The motor being alittle handycap since its a 3 footer and not 4 I just could not let it go necked with wires expose,so what do I have to lose other than time.
I found me apiece of 16ga metal,took some measurements of the cast iron back plate cut the metal to size allowing 3/16 over hang all the way around to bend over for a lip.Guys I'm sorry I can't keep a straight face.I watch "This Old House"and Tom Silva hollers out Cut off 3/16,it sounds so dramatic.Well the lip end up being what it is but its close to 3/16 or maybe its 1/4.

Guys I did luck off cause the lip that I bent using my torch and a piece of angle iron as a back plate in the vise work pretty good.

Using my bandsaw to cut out the parts for the cover and my die grinder with a cut off wheel to cut out the center piece except one end which I bent it up with the help of my torch.Then using the little mig welder,I spot the pieces in and tack them in place.The flap that I had left I heated it and then bent it over the side pieces then tack them in place.

Since my welding looks like a dirt dobber done it,I use the grinder to clean up the welds then check for holes and weld again.I will take my sanding disc and clean it up,then paint.Thanks for looking----kroll


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## Kroll

Spent the last few days assembling the motor mount and installing and wiring the motor just like it was when taken apart.Today was a successful day till I gave the motor a try in rev using the drum switch.Not knowing if it work in the past or any history on its previous life if it was wired for 110v or 220v and no motor plate on how to wire the motor.Guys I wired it for 110v cause the cord cap was 110v but that don't mean there wasn't some rigging going on,who knows??All I know is reguardless the position of the drum switch the rotation is the same.Now I'm wondering if the motor may have been wired for 220v with the wrong cord cap,way its wired right now the motor draws 10.3 amps @ 110v which seems high even for this monster size motor.The motor does run smooth and quit and feeling of the motor around the bushings its just as cool as air temp after bout 15 mins run time.Guys I'm at a guessing point on this motor and I don't want to burn it up wiring it for 220v just to see,so any ideals??? I'm sure this is the same motor as other lathe of this period w/drum switch,anyone have a diagram so that I can compare???Thanks guys---kroll


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## cuseguy

It shouldn't matter whether you wire it at 110v or 220v, as long as the motor is single-phase. Most can be wired at either voltage. 10 amps is in the range of what a 1hp motor should draw...I think. It's a common issue to not be able to get the motor to reverse right off the bat. Been there...done that! There are threads all over the place about it, but every motor is different.
 I have a good diagram for the basic 8-wire motor to drum switch configuration, that I attached as a jpeg. If it is too small to read, pm me and I'll email it. It might help, it might not.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


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## Kroll

Thank you Cuseguy,is #5,#8 the capacitor?I took the leads apart this morning and they are lable #1-#4 then two yellow wires which go to the capacitor maybe through the centrifugal switch,I think---kroll


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## cuseguy

Honestly this is not my field of expertise! Your guess is as good as mine. An electrician friend made this out for me, back when I had the same issue that you have, and it has worked for me ever since. 
It looks to me like T2 and T3 are your start windings, so aren't those the cap wires?  I could be wrong as I said though.  That's why I use VFD's now....so much easier!

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


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## cuseguy

Or are the capacitors T1 and T4?


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## cuseguy

We need someone that actually knows what they are doing


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## joebiplane

cuseguy said:


> We need someone that actually knows what they are doing



You guys always want to take the "Challange" out of it

" Ifit were easy Women and children could do it"


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## Kroll

I only add to the confusion,this is one area I hate asking questions cause I have a hard time understanding,but the diagram makes sense.Later this morning,I'm going to ohm the motor windings and see what is what.The yellow wires are not number so I though it made no difference which terminals #4 or #7,when I had the cover off of the cap the wires were also yellow:whiteflag:


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## cuseguy

My advice is to use the diagram as your basis and play around. Not great advice as sparks and smoke are no fun, but those old motors are tough and can withstand quite a bit of abuse. You'll know when you have it right

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


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## Kroll

Its Sunday and the skys are blue,after receiving some help on how to wire the drum switch I just could not understand on how to make it work.After doing some googling and reading about running it in reverse taking a chance of the chuck unscrewing I decided to say "the heck with the drum switch" and I feel good now.I did install a toggle switch that is rated for the motor and it has a heater in it so thats a good thing.So after running the motor alittle upside down I took my hoist and flip it over without the cabinet crashing and dang it looks good.Yes I ran the motor again for about 15mins and its nice and quit and smooth,but when I turn it off I can hear the centrifical switch drop out.Since I started this project its been upside down from the beginning after stripping the paint,so the chip pan has been necked since I started so I had to sand it down again then clean with thinner and apply a layer of primer.Thats it for today,I'm a happy camper now I think I will just do some shop cleaning.Thanks for looking----kroll


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## woodtickgreg

The black and blue colors look great, I really like that. Glad you got the motor sorted out.


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## Kroll

Thanks,its a color that kinda grows on ya.Question on carriage stop,I took it apart to clean,lub and paint but I be dang I can't remember where the little pin thats next to the brass goes.I can't seem to find a cut sheet for this stop,any ideals or directions??Thanks ----kroll


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## Kroll

Happy New Yrs guys,today was a pretty good day for me and the SB.I devoted all day just on the headstock cleaning up and installing the spindle and the back gear.All went very well cause I took my time taking it apart and marking the brass shims which brings me to a question.I did install new felts with springs and oil everything down with spindle oil being careful putting the shims in the right place(so I thought).I do not have the spindle play adjusted yet(wait till its on the bed) but I do have the ring snug alittle which the spindle does not spin freely like the cone pulley.Will this loosen up some when I start to run it,or is there something else wrong?Guys before I started this project the spindle did spin good,so it was working.Now I'm second guessing myself thinking maybe I have a shim in the wrong place.That would be on the front cause one of the shims come loose from the bundle,maybe I have one in the wrong spot.Dang----kroll


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## cuseguy

Kroll said:


> Happy New Yrs guys,todas a pretty good day for me and the SB.I devoted all day just on the headstock cleaning up and installing the spindle and the back gear.All went very well cause I took my time taking it apart and marking the brass shims which brings me to a question.I did install new felts with springs and oil everything down with spindle oil being careful putting the shims in the right place(so I thought).I do not have the spindle play adjusted yet(wait till its on the bed) but I do have the ring snug alittle which the spindle does not spin freely like the cone pulley.Will this loosen up some when I start to run it,or is there something else wrong?Guys before I started this project the spindle did spin good,so it was working.Now I'm second guessing myself thinking maybe I have a shim in the wrong place.That would be on the front cause one of the shims come loose from the bundle,maybe I have one in the wrong spot.Dang----kroll


Start by backing off the take-up  collar (the ring) a hair and see if that frees it up. My guess is that it will. If not, we'll move on to step 2.


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## cuseguy

You only want that collar hand tight and then backed off  a few degrees until it spins freely. Then lock it down. 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


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## Kroll

Thanks,I did not know that on the lock ring.I will give that a try and report back tomorrow so hopefully will not need step #2.
Its nice to have help,thanks guys---kroll


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## wa5cab

Kroll,

Shouldn't you have installed the drive belt before assembling the headstock?  

Robert D.


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## cuseguy

No, he's fine. All Heavy 10's are under cabinet mounted drives and the belt is routed through a hole on each side of the headstock. Therefore they require a joined belt. 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


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## Kroll

I did do that on the Atlas,which I had to take all apart.But on this lathe its a flat belt and its has metal loops then slide a pin through the loops or stitch I guess.---kroll


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## Kroll

Robert heres a pic of the splice for the flat belt,I have heard that the problem with this type of splice is it makes a clicking noise which I can't say cause I have never heard one before.

This afternoon I work on the spindle and it does not spin real freely but it is smooth.I did back off on the spindle lock ring some and it did help,I also check the shims and their in the right place none missing.Should both sides on the front be shim the same,one side measures .023 other reads .028?
After missing around with spindle getting it the best it can be,I started putting some of the gears together installing the felt and some spindle oil,but the oil holes where just the right size to get a q-tip in to clean it out.

Thanks for looking---kroll


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## cuseguy

You could loosen the spindle up some more by tightening the bearing expanders that are underneath the hex plugs on the headstock. I would probably do that in your final adjustment of the spindle. Just like the collar, there is a fine line between too tight and too loose.  

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


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## wa5cab

Kroll & Cuseguy,

OK.  I must have missed the beginning of this thread and thought I remembered Kroll telling me he was going to be working on a 9" for someone else.  I couldn't pass the aircraft identification test on SB headstocks.  

Robert D.


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## cuseguy

Thats good stuff Robert! Kroll, I wanted to mention that you don't need to worry that the shims aren't the same height. They rarely are. Put it back together the way it came and then adjust it all up at the end. It'll be fine. 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


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## woodtickgreg

When I did the headstock bearings and shims on my 10L I kept the shim packs even as best as possible within.001" front to rear. A lift test is the way to go to set the clearance. I can run mine all day and the bearings never even get warm. Correct clearance is critical for proper oiling.


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## Kroll

Thanks guys I'm going to wait till I get the headstock mounted on the lathe then put the finishing touches on it and give the spindle lift test.Robert I may have said it was a 9",I start so many projects I do get confuse then something else comes along like this SB lathe.All my own stuff has come to a halt till I get past the SB.---kroll


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## mattthemuppet2

not much to offer for the rest of the thread other than that you're doing great work, but for the carriage stop, the small brass pin goes down the barrel of the threaded lock. To do a better job of explaining it - the threaded dohickey that you tighten down to lock the stop in place once you've got the distance dialed in? It goes in the hole that the threaded dohickey goes in. It's what screws against the graduated dial to lock it in place.

I found one once in a dumpster and took it apart to clean and grease it before selling it.

Keep up the good work!


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## Kroll

Another good day but I was alittle nervous at first.After learning that the pin that holds a gear in place is installed off center I was able to drive it out and then remove all gears in the QCGB.I have to say that someone before me also gave it a try which they were using a punch that has a point and made several attempts buggering the gear alittle.The gear also looks as if it had been hitting something cause it has a small grove cut into it all the way around.Just an FYI,the two pins that I remove from the QCGB were not taper for some reason,maybe due to the small dia of the gears and teeth.
*Drive Screw*:Guys I am ordering some of those Oil hole covers from McMaster-Carr and I want to order some stainless drive screws for the index plate,but how do you tell what size a person needs?Guys thanks for the help---kroll


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## Kroll

For once the weather is fantastic so I thought I would do alittle more painting.So I started with the chip pan,then went on to the saddle and couple other parts.Guys I been putting off the apron cause its alittle intimidating but its the last piece and it needs cleaning and painting.Looking at the 2rd,3rd pics of the apron I guess its not to bad and really all the handles came off pretty easy.Going by the SB book next I remove the trough and only afew shavings.In pic #4 I use a wood door wedge or wood shim to block the cross-feed gear to try and knock out the very small offset pin and I be dang,no problem.Now reading the book and being alittle nervous I read that the star gear is held on with a left hand thread screw,boy I'm glad that I read the book cause I had no ideal.As you can see in #5 pic.I move on and remove the other gears and labeling left/right so that all can go back togeather.Finally in #6pic is the apron butt naked ready for cleaning.Finally pic is of the clutch which I did not take it completely apart,yet!!!!
Tomorrow I'm going to try and seat the bed on the cabinet and get it bolted down so that I can really do some assembling.Thanks for looking----kroll
Sorry my pics did not come out right


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## Kroll

Morning guys,well this morning started out being monumental(big word for me)cause I mounted the bed and it feels good.But not without an issue,I set the bed in place put the bolts thou the holes at the headstock end but the tailstock end was off alittle.So I had to raise that end of the bed and turn the bed footing around and it was closer,so all is good so far.Now I can start mounting headstock which will free up some rm in the shop.As Phil Robertson says *HAPPY,HAPPY,HAPPY:thumbsup:*


----------



## cuseguy

Wow, it is going to really pop with the Blue and the Black! I'm seeing it now....

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


----------



## Kroll

Guys about noon I started to put the QCGB back together so that I could get it mounted then install the headstock but guess what?If there was a football game between me and the press on gear,the game would be over at half time.I dread the little offset pin that has yet to be installed.Its 6pm here and I still haven't got the shaft all the way on but its getting close.I wish I did not paint the box till I had all the gears and shafts mounted cause its scratch up all to heck.I'm tired so for today I'm throwing in the towel for now---kroll


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## woodtickgreg

What I learned when I was doing my gear box was to take your time, remove any and all burrs from the gears and shafts. I used small files for the insides of things and the mighty wire wheel for the outsides of things. I assembled it on my lap mostly as that was a soft surface that didn't scratch it, LOL. That offset pin is really not a big deal now that you got it off and understand how it works. I found that some small brass blocks and small hard wood blocks to keep the gears from rolling while you tap the pins in really help. Other than tapping the pins in, force should not be needed. Patience my friend.


----------



## Kroll

Wise words Woodtick,I hope tomorrow I will be posting pics of a complete QCGB that will only need painting----kroll


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## stonehands

Kroll, did you notice that the inside of the gearbox was only primed by South Bend? I don't think they could put one together without scratching up the paint! After having to re-finish the first two- a single tumbler and a wide range- I now take the cowards way out and prime the box, then tape off the gear set after assembly and then spray the finish coats. If I touch up a paint job, I'll see those spots for the rest of my life even if no one else can. Like Greg said, the only thing you need on those gearboxes is patience. Good luck with the project.


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## Kroll

Good morning guys,I'm having a good morning cause I'm off the rest of the week and I also had a good afternoon.Or you ready for the score???? *kroll 6* *Gear Box 0*,yahoo I was able to get it put together except the tumbler lever cause I was mentally gave out.I had no brass on hand so I tried using oak for doing the press on gear but no luck.So I though I would share how I did figure out the press on gear and doing the pin,like woodtick said it was not hard but improvising was needed.(I don't know if the pics will come out in order but heck)
I had some small angle iron that I cut two pieces 5/8 wide and using the bench grinder I made sure that all edges where square.I believe the iron was 1" so I put both pieces around the shaft and using electrical tape to hold it in place.I drove the shaft till it bottom out with the press on gear and it work great,but I did have to made another seat alittle wider to make sure.Now how to hold the dog gear in place to install the pin?Will again no brass so I took a 3/8 bolt and I had a square nut on hand so I prop it to catch the gear teeth and adjusted the nut to where the height was just right,and my luck continues.Stonehands,your right about the paint
Note: Guys this work for me,if I had some brass I would gave it a try first just to aid in not damaging the gears.
Thanks for looking----kroll


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## gmcken

Very good work on the restoration.  I think I would repair the foot that is broken due to being easier to fix now since it is upside down.  Just my thought;  having restored several SB's.  Keep up the good work!


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## Thoro

Looks good Kroll.  Improvisation is fun.  I know the feeling of getting stuck in a project with a known solution, but not having the proper gear or material, so you make do! It's looking really good.  Are you using rustoleum paint too? (sorry if one of your posts already said what kind.) If so, in a spray can or quart/gallon?  And do you spray any or do you brush it on?


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## Kroll

Thoro(thank you) its SW's Sher-Kem paint very high gloss( has a glass finish to it) which can work against you cause it shows all the little imperfections on sheet metal but cast iron its good.Myself in the past I normally use the type of paint that is being sent to you,but it scratches easy.This is the first time I have ever use the Sher-kem paint but it does chip if struck hard.I guess all paint has alittle problem---kroll


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## Thoro

Kroll said:


> Thoro(thank you) its SW's Sher-Kem paint very high gloss( has a glass finish to it) which can work against you cause it shows all the little imperfections on sheet metal but cast iron its good.Myself in the past I normally use the type of paint that is being sent to you,but it scratches easy.This is the first time I have ever use the Sher-kem paint but it does chip if struck hard.I guess all paint has alittle problem---kroll



I see. Well, hopefully the paint I am getting won't be unsuitable....


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## Kroll

Guys being off this week I am able to get some things done to the lathe like putting the money coat of paint on the cabinet.I wish I would have put just alittle more thinner with the paint cause it has alittle orange peel it will pass.Next I move on to the saddle getting it put together and I have to say that installing those little pins in the dial was a pain,but complete.Next if I choose to except this mission(music from Mission Impossible in the background) will be the apron,I will have to read the book some more to make sure I install the felt in all the right places.So far so good----kroll


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## Thoro

Lookin good!

 I'm almost ready to start paining my carriage and compound.  Is your apron just primed on the front?  what was your method for cleaning inside the apron?  Did it have a bunch of built up oil and chips crud?


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## Kroll

Thank you,it is only primed on the front.When I took it apart there was no paint on the back side so I'm going to go bare,like someone else said here at the site the oil will keep it from rusting.Over the last few yrs I have been using a degreaser sold at Lowes in 5gal container call Zep Degreaser(vinyl gloves is necessary),it is very stout,will remove grease and paint if you leave it setting over night,I remove the part wash it down with clean water then blow it off then spray it with WD 40 till I get ready to paint which then I use thinner to clean again.
The apron really was not that cake up with shaving or grease other than in the corners,it came clean pretty easy.Thanks for looking---kroll


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## Kroll

Guys I feel alittle guilty,while ya'll are at work and I'm home working on the lathe. I was going to try and snick by the clutch assembly without cleaning but my conscience got the best of me and I'm glad.Looking at the assemble the outside was clean but when I started to take it apart it was full of gunk and the plates(lobed) were stuck together.So that was a close call,and another thing,idler gear there is three small holes for oil,those holes were solid with gunk so no oil was passing through those holes.Just some little things I though I would share with others.Thanks for looking----kroll


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## Kroll

I'm confuse,going by the book since this is a 10L lathe I should have 4 lobed 3 splines.But I have 4/4 and the stack finishes with a spline but the book shows finishing with a lobed.I have it lined up in the pic the way I took it apart,does this look and sound right?????Maybe since this lathe is a 1942 model its alittle different and this one has no thrust bearing like the book shows---kroll


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## Kroll

Guys I think I may have found another problem from the factory.Since starting the apron all was going good install the felt with the horseshoe shape around the clutch even out the ends.Going by the book move on to the other gears and felt and I'm moving on with a smile on my face saying to myself "I know what I'm doing" *WRONG! *I went to install the bushings and the worm gear and slip the felt through the bushing but guess what??? There  is no groove or channel  in the bushings for the felt so how in the heck does this thing get oil?Keep in mind that this has been like this since 1942,the bushings does show alittle wear and the middle threads on the worm gear is thinner than the others.
Now awhile back someone here said that evey yr SB would change their design so maybe this is one of them,am I panicking over nothing????-----kroll


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## Pacer

From what I've seen of your pics your 1942 Heavy 10 seems to be just like my 1944 Heavy 10 - and I found the book to really be more a "guide" than a verbatim step by step. It was about 3 yrs ago when I did mine but I seem to recall the apron was one of the (several) areas that it didnt follow. The 4 & 4 discs sounds familiar, but I cant remember on the wicks.

You sure doin good though....


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## Thoro

Here's mine.  First one to go in is lobed, last one is splined.  sorry, the pic is a bit dark, took it with my phone, and thought it would have been better than that.

I concur with Pacer.  I have found the book to be a good guideline, as far order of events in assembly and disassembly, but you have to assimilate some things as you go along.



- - - Updated - - -



Kroll said:


> Guys I think I may have found another problem from the factory.Since starting the apron all was going good install the felt with the horseshoe shape around the clutch even out the ends.Going by the book move on to the other gears and felt and I'm moving on with a smile on my face saying to myself "I know what I'm doing" *WRONG! *I went to install the bushings and the worm gear and slip the felt through the bushing but guess what??? There  is no groove or channel  in the bushings for the felt so how in the heck does this thing get oil?Keep in mind that this has been like this since 1942,the bushings does show alittle wear and the middle threads on the worm gear is thinner than the others.
> Now awhile back someone here ethat evey yr SB would change their design so maybe this is one of them,am I panicking over nothing????-----kroll



That seems really odd...Mine had all the keys cut for wicks....seems to me that there should definitely be one there.  You may just have to move on without wicking that portion and perhaps grease that side, cross your fingers and assume it's been that way for 70 years, so what's another 70 gonna hurt it? lol


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## Kroll

Thanks guys I was wondering about the book,I think its maybe more for the newer ones I guess.Thanks Thoro,I feel better knowing that the lobes and splines are the same as your.
Guys one more thing for today,I am in need of the key for the lead screw,mine has a shoulder on it and it fits loose in the worm gear and the lead screw.If someone has an extra or a link or know of someone who is willing to sell,I'm all ears.Done for today---kroll


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## Thoro

Kroll said:


> Thanks guys I was wondering about the book,I think its maybe more for the newer ones I guess.Thanks Thoro,I feel better knowing that the lobes and splines are the same as your.
> Guys one more thing for today,I am in need of the key for the lead screw,mine has a shoulder on it and it fits loose in the worm gear and the lead screw.If someone has an extra or a link or know of someone who is willing to sell,I'm all ears.Done for today---kroll



Mine showed signs of wear too, but I figure it will just have a tiny bit of backlash when changing directions of feed, which shouldn't hurt it any....

Looks like an easy part to make if you have a mill.  Even with a file, it'd be a pretty pretty simple, just take more time.


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## Kroll

I can buy some key stock,and just take an angle grinder then touch it up on the bench grinder.I did not think of that,thanks Thoro----kroll


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## Kroll

Good afternoon guys,well its the end of my short at home vacation but it was productive.I feel I was able to get alot done to the lathe and also find some problems.On those problems I have been provided some helpful information on the worm bushings and waiting for a responce from an individual who may have parts such as the worm and worm gear so keeping my fingers cross.If not I guess I will be calling griz and a foolish banker(humor)What I'm really happy about I was able to put some parts on the lathe and off the bench,table saw and other flat places.What I have left is finish the gear box,installing it then the headstock which I have to make some shims so thats a hurdle for me.Maybe sometimes next week I will have those replacement parts so I can finish up the apron and maybe install it on the weekend.But I do still have a ton of loose ends that needs to be dealt with and some of those mystery left over parts.If there is one area that I need to improve on is being organize.I start out saying to myself I will remember that but over couple mos my mind goes blank.
Now I have a question,here in the south humidity is a problem.I can't afford to treat the shop nor my carport.As you can see in the pic the underdrive pulley already has alittle surface rust,I just clean it on Friday.So how do ya'll handle something like this,I can't wax it like I do my woodworking tools so what is the best way?Thanks for looking---kroll


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## woodtickgreg

If that lathe is going to run a serpentine belt then a coat of wax like you use on your wood working machines is ok, you can't oil it, so you have to put something on it. Don't permanently install the gearbox or head stock until you get the apron done. I suppose you could instal the apron from the tail stock end. I hung the apron and then slide the lead screw and gearbox on. I did it this way so I could get the nuts for the lead screw tight before mounting the gear box. Whatever works I guess. I still really like the colors of this one. Maybe when I restore my wells band saw I will do black and blue as well.


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## Thoro

It's looking awesome!


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## Kroll

Thanks,I know that serpentine belt would be better but the leather belt is still very good so for now going to give it a try and see what it does with a load on it.----kroll


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## Kroll

Thanks Woodtick,I never gave it any thought on dealing with the lead screw trying to slide that very heavy apron on.I think I will just wait till I get it done.----kroll


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## Kroll

Morning guys,well its 35* this morning so I guess I can handle cold weather(don't laugh I have good hearing)so I am now starting on the drawers and the two piece door.I went to add the washing soda and it landed on top of a sheet of ice(who says it don't get cold here except people from Alaska thats for globel warming).Anyway since all sides needs to be derusted(is that a real word?)I though I would use the electrolysis method.I use this method several times on some of my woodworking machines just to do a good job of cleaning in all those very small cracks that have awhole lot of rust.So pulled out my tub,expanded metal,charger and washing soda.As you can see in the pic I have couple small pieces of angle iron to seat in the bottom to raise the drawer up off the bottom so it would also get clean.

- - - Updated - - -

Now guys I seat the drawer in the tub on the angle iron and I need to add alittle more water,after doing so I took a water temp to see what it is and before I take the drawer out I will check the water temp again just for grins.Couple of pics of the drawers before cleaning.The last one is my Junk Yard Guard,she works for chicken feed.Don't mess with Tinkerbell---Little humor


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## Kroll

Boy was it a long day at "The House of Restoration",my goal was to finish up with the priming but the electrolysis tank took alittle longer so the very last piece of metal is still cooking in the tank.But I did start yesterday cleaning the drawers using the tank letting them soak for the most part of the day.I did have to use the torch on the drawer slides to straighten the edge they were all bent in the same area.On the drawer fronts the corners needed to be heated so that they could be bent out to straighten up nice and flat.Next was acouple of coats of primer even on the bottom side.Next I started working on both halves of the door.Bout noon time I put one half of the door in the tank and let it seat till 5pm took it out and clean it up,apply couple coats of primer.But its almost dark now so the other half is now in the tank and my spray gun use the dekup system so the paint will be alright till tomorrow which will be the very last piece to be primer of this very long adventure.Heres afew random pics of yesterdays work and todays.Thanks for looking----kroll


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## Kroll

Afternoon guys,well I haven't through in the towel yet.But I am waiting on some gears for the apron to come in.The worm and worm gear are just to bad to take a chance and use them,so moving on to other things like this fantastic collet set.Took some evapo-rust and place bout 10 collets in tupperware bowl we'll see what they look like tomorrow---kroll


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## Thoro

How is your progress coming along?


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## Kroll

Good afternoon guys,here where I'm at the bad weather has left Tx for now so it is fantastic outside this past weekend and till next weekend.I also have almost finish repairing my sewer lines(covering them up)so I though I would work on the lathe alittle.Finish painting both halfs of the door and the inside/outside drawers.Mounting the front half and installing the hinge pins then putting the back half on.Before the door was spot welded but I went back with rivets then just touch them up with paint and it kinda looks nice.Now today or maybe the rest of the week will be spent trying to get the apron together,which I had to replace the worm,worm gear,and the worm bushings.These bushings are new and they have the channel for the wick but they have no pin to keep them from spinning in the apron.So going to try and figure up a game plan for that without messing this all up.Anyway sorry took so long to post some progress but it is moving,thanks for looking and any comments on how you would drill pins through the bushing and into the apron,I'm all ears----kroll


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## itsme_Bernie

Wow!  That is beautiful!  Nice color scheme! 




Bernie


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## Kroll

Afternoon guys,its been awhile since last post due to OT at work.Well this weekend I got after it finishing up on the apron but what give me hell was the dovetail gib.I got the half nut all put together but it was so tight just would not move.I had to shim the gib out by .005 so that the half nut can be open/close.I took it apart several times checking for something or what I did wrong so started adjusting by .002,002,001.This problem took up a good part of the morning(any ideals on what I did wrong?).Next I pickup another pair of worm bushings,worm,worm gear.Problem with the worm bushings was no pin to keep them from rotating.Using my drill press I drill a 3/32 hole for a harden pin but it could only be bout 1/16 long. I finish up on the bushing and they came out pretty nice and snug.After that I install the worm collar on the right side and the drive pin as well so issues yet.Next I install the left side and line it up with the hole in the worm but it was just to loose,bout 1/8 play side to side.So I rotate the collar about 1/2 turn,mark the collar then drill it out on the press.Guys I screw it back on the worm and I be dang it line up with the original hole in the worm so I install the pin,yahoo and now the worm only has just alittle side to side play maybe 32th.Well I'm feeling good so now to put this thing together,install the apron,lead screw on the gear box then install this section.I then rotate the lead screw but it was just alittle tight in one spot.So far so good so I move on to the head stock the the reverse gear and the gear train.I install the belt,and adjusted the tension rod just about all the way up. I smile then took some pics for you guys,took me a sip of tea seat down and took a well deserve break.Now I wanted to flip the switch and play with the power feed but I figure I will check all gears on the box and rotate it by hand.Well guys it would rotate maybe a turn and a half and hit a spot where it was diffcult to rotate.But I was able to get it pass it and easy again till got to about the same spot.Again I though it was just stiff figure it would work loose,*but it did not*.Guys its just diffcult with each rotation and its not getting loose.My smile was short lived,I'm guess that one of the shafts may be bent either by me when installing the pins(I had the shafts supported) or bent from the beginning or its the one that I replace.I don't know,I remove the reverse gear and left the big gear on the QCGB and its still hard.Lesson learned,before I start to take something like a lathe apart check to see what actually works,I should have tried the qcgb to see if it was smooth and I should have check the half nut lever.Boy I have made some mistakes on this,so add about couple more weeks.Now something for my headache---kroll


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## Kroll

Today was some what of a good day.This morning after some coffee I started taking the lathe apart so that I could remove the QCGB cause I was thinking that was where my problem is.After bout 1/2hr I had it setting on my bench with the lead screw still attach and I put the drive gear on.Started turning it by hand and it turn pretty easy,all look good at this point.So I put this back together on the lathe,but sliding it through the apron and the worm was alittle tough so using some oil down the channel of the lead screw it slide right on.Next item was the gear train, the two gears(one that slides) wiggles at lease 1/8 maybe more so heres another problem area and same thing for the mating gear.
Now after putting this all back together and having the reverse gear engage I could turn the drive gear by hand,while not easy but it turns.So I engage the back gear and turn it on,guys it took off running,maybe more noise than it should but it runs.Now for the embarrassing part,I forgot to check the spindle cause I had remember that I needed to add some shims.For testing purposes I loosen the cap screws just to see if it would run.So next week I will be making some shims.Another problem solve is the half nut gib,by itself it was just to tight to open/close so I put some shims under the gib.But while reading woodtickgregs restoration project I read where he took a file and just remove some high spots on his gib so maybe thats what my problem is.So next week I will take it apart and just check it out.
For the moment the hew:smile has returned----kroll


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## Kroll

Guys I am getting so close to the point that all I have left is putting the finishing touches on the lathe.I am finish with shimming the spindle,all I had to add was .002 to the front.Its not perfect but very,very close.I change speeds with the belt,change the gear box,engage the half nut,use the power feed in both directions,all works.Doing alittle touching up with the paint,install some of the badges and mounted the backgear covers.I will place one more small order with McMaster-Carr for some SS screws,drive rivets or screw rivets(?) and couple of SS lock screw for the dials.Nothing worthy of pics yet but I hope by next week it will be 100% finish and I will post some pics of the finish lathe.The real test will be when it makes some shavings.Hope I did not jix myself----)


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## Duey C

With all the attention you've paid that sweet lathe, there is no way you've jinxed yourself or that lathe.


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## Kernbigo

One thing i did that may help is torque the spindle bolts that way you can control the lift on the spindle that you are after, use a good torque wrench


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## Thoro

Kernbigo said:


> One thing i did that may help is torque the spindle bolts that way you can control the lift on the spindle that you are after, use a good torque wrench



That confirms the theory I came up with as I have been thinking through how best to go about reinstalling my spindle when I get to it.


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## Kroll

I like the torque ideal,but what lbs per sq in. would be good?Tks----kroll


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## Kernbigo

*spindle bearings*

The hole idea is to come up with the recommended lift ( or clearance) you have to shim it to get close. Than you can vary the torque to get the lift you want. Mine requires .0007-.001 clearance on the bearings, i ended with .0007 on the rear bearing with 20# torque and .0008 on the front with 25# torque. It takes some time to come up with the write shim i used plastic in different combinations. I think it was around .025 shim.


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## Kroll

Good morning guys,well the weather here is not fantastic but I guess alittle better than you guys getting hammered with snow so I'm not going to cry.My little order come in from McMaster-Carr consisted of SS bolts and nuts which I use to give the lathe alittle flash and since the humidity is so bad here,maybe alittle less rusting.Which really makes the lathe finish as far as putting it back together but still need to made some good accurate shavings.
Guys awhile back I ask about how those that have the cabinet style lathe w/three drawers how you organize them so that a person can find something without tossing.I use 16ga metal which is all I had.Using a knockout set to punch holes for the collets which took awhole lot of time.So when I got to the right size hole which was a 2" I broke out the impack which made it alot easier.The holes and not perfect so I'll keep the drawer close when guest comes over.LOL!So I spent the last few days making a tray that will hold all the collets and something that will also hold the 4 different bottles of oil,so here pics of what I come up with.Problem with the tray and having all these collets,it takes up the whole drawer.But its just laying in there on top of a piece of rubber foam that is oil resistance(quite) the tray can be removed.Guys I bet I have a good whole day into this collet tray and still have to paint it.But its made to fit and I think it well worth the extra day.
Now the tray for the oil I was thinking of mounting it underneath the lathe between the motor mounting and the drawers.But now I'm thinking maybe mounting it on the side of the cabinet(outside) so where would you mount it?
My goal was to have this finish by the weekend but its looking like another week then I will say 
*"**Complete"* and post some pics of the finish product.Enjoy, and guys thanks for looking----kroll


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## Thoro

That is really nice man. Can you make a rough drawing of the dimensions an what not for both of those? I personally would put the oil caddy under the lathe in that useless space between the drive and drawers. On mine, I think I am going to put an expanded meta shelf or two in there


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## woodtickgreg

I would want the oil caddy on the outside, if it's easy to get to then it will be used. I like my oil in my face as a reminder to oil the machine before I even turn it on.


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## Kroll

*Correction:1" hole* not 2" I'm sorry first I use a 1/2 knockout then a 1" knockout.I had to use the 1/2KO due to the bolt size of the 1" KO.
If I learn anything I hope its how to take notes and pics on how something goes back together even if its a yr later and post correctly.One day someone will read my posting and maybe drive to Tx and kick my butt due to my errors so I have better improve.
Now,guys I have taken the thread dial apart for a good cleaning which at first I was just going to do the outside but change my mind and a good thing.It was dragging just a tad so I pulled the dial out and on the bottom side where a bevel is was a thick layer of dirt.And in the housing was a thick layer of dirt,I guess the bevel was made just for that as a relief.Now it did have alittle oil on the shaft so is just any oil OK are does it need to be something special?Guessing it needs to be on the thin side cause there is one of those ball type places for the oil.
Thor on the tray for the collets which I measure one of those cast aluminum trays and just copy it which came out to be 1.750 (1 3/4,I got to start thinking in .001) grid.Using the 1"KO the collet seats just a tad deeper than the cast aluminum but its doable.And it seats up 3.750,but wait till I get it in the drawer with all the collets seating in it giving it a good field test.Today doing more of the accessories cleaning and paint,dang its taking alot of time----kroll
Thor,I like the ideal of a slide out shelve.Wish I would have built one


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## uncle harry

I use a HF step drill with the largest step that fits the larger drive screw in my GB knockout punch set.  That way it's easier to align the holes & on small enough sheet metal parts I can use the drill press to make the pilot holes.


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## Kroll

Uncle Harry,do you have a link to that step drill?I think I know what your talking about but not sure,I would love to have one for the reason that your talking about.---kroll


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## uncle harry

Kroll said:


> Uncle Harry,do you have a link to that step drill?I think I know what your talking about but not sure,I would love to have one for the reason that your talking about.---kroll




I got most of my step drills from Harbor Freight. (WE have 2 stores in the Milwaukee, WI area).  MSC, McMaster-Carr etc should also be good sources.


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## Thoro

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piec...eed-steel-step-drills-96275.html#.Ux2YHvldWFI


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## uncle harry

Thoro said:


> http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piec...eed-steel-step-drills-96275.html#.Ux2YHvldWFI


 

Thanks for adding the HF site Thoro,  I recently "updated" to windows 8.1 from XP & it's kickin' my arse.  Sooner or later I hope to get with the delightful features of this beast so that I can post pics & do other useful deeds.


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## Kroll

Tag team effort,now I see what ya'll are talking bout.Same here Uncle,my computer says its not supported so I can't post using imageshack which I could before and my computer won't let me download Java for some reason.I'm not a computer person----kroll


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## Kroll

Well I'm going to tell off on myself,not real happy with the way the collet tray turned out.As you can see in the pic the very back roll is repeat collets but where I located the two sleeves(whatever their called)you have to pull the drawer out(sad face).If I had a do over I would mount a collet rack on the side but I figure there it would rattle alot.Guys I am happy with the tray for the oils,which I was going to mount it on the outside but I may come up with something else for that side.On the bottom drawer is the 3/4 jaw chucks which will also have the T-handles for the chucks and put the extra set of jaws there also(still to much wasted space).The red you see(wanted blue) is 1/4 thick that the chuck rest on,then 1/2 black and 1/2 blue to match.What I like about this foam is its oil resistance,oil will not harm it and the foam will help keep things quit.The top drawer I want to make a tray to mount in the drawer but will be size to slide to the back of the drawer so to gain access to the bottom of the drawer.Maybe the tray will be for small cutting tools and carbide bits. Any ideals for the top drawer?????Still doing some tuneup on the lathe,found some grease for the spindle cone and the back gear.I have to say that adjusting the back gear was a job,going back/forth then adjusting the tenison on the BG.Was working till I kick in the half nut so made more adjustments.Anyway at a stopping point for today,thanks for looking and any comments good or bad----kroll


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## uncle harry

Maybe make a blue cover for the back to hide it & don't tell anyone about the oops. Oops, I guess you already told us !


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## Kroll

Guys I am on the downhill side of the lathe,for the most part I have ran it through it,made afew shavings,change gears and speeds.Dang on the higher speeds it hauls tail and don't have to make two trips.Today I am making the accessory tray that mounts on the back side of the lathe,I guess for the drill chucks,live/dead centers,etc.The one you see in the pic is what I think is original to the lathe,but its missing afew small chunks of wood or should I say plywood so I decided to make another.Again its alot of work,someone on the outside looking in may not realize the amount of work that goes into something as simple as this,but heres pics of what it takes to make it.Minus the painting,I hope that most have enjoyed the entertainment of this project----kroll


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## Kroll

*Re: SB Rehab/Restoration(Pic Heavy)*

Today is a day of celebration,I have cross the finish line,complete the 10K marathorn,went the distance,you get the point.Guys it has been a journey,most exciting but had some close calls which acouple remains to be tested,I think it was Pacer that said to replace all the drive gears which I will at a later date cause they are showing some wear and it makes for some excess noise.I have to say that something like this will make a man cry at times but give some satisfaction.To all thank you for your help and advice and Woodtick thank you for your very informative post of your restoration project,which I keep going back to it and reading several times,I guess as much as the book.Others thank you som much for the links,advice and where to locate parts.Guys all there is here is more pics of the finish product and the last pic is my next project which the funds from it will help me purchase so good tooling and indicators as needed,enjoy and thanks---kroll


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## woodtickgreg

Bravo! You done good my friend, very good indeed. I have enjoyed watching your progress and work on this lathe. Makes me feel really good that my rebuild still inspires people and that they learn from it, thank you for sharing that with me. I like the color so much on this that I think when I redo my band saw I think I'm gonna do something like that, I like the black and blue. So I am guessing that the next project is a mill? be sure to alert me where you post that so I can follow it too. Great job, thanks for sharing with us all.


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## uncle harry

*Re: SB Rehab/Restoration(Pic Heavy)*



Kroll said:


> Today is a day of celebration,I have cross the finish line,complete the 10K marathorn,went the distance,you get the point.Guys it has been a journey,most exciting but had some close calls which acouple remains to be tested,I think it was Pacer that said to replace all the drive gears which I will at a later date cause they are showing some wear and it makes for some excess noise.I have to say that something like this will make a man cry at times but give some satisfaction.To all thank you for your help and advice and Woodtick thank you for your very informative post of your restoration project,which I keep going back to it and reading several times,I guess as much as the book.Others thank you som much for the links,advice and where to locate parts.Guys all there is here is more pics of the finish product and the last pic is my next project which the funds from it will help me purchase so good tooling and indicators as needed,enjoy and thanks---kroll




For those of us who remember getting gold stars on our  report cards, this is a classic candidate !  Many GOLD stars to you, sir !


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## Kroll

Thanks guys,thanks for being a big part of this project.Woodtick is the base of a Lux mill which I will be posting over in the restoration project section(I think).Looking in the pic I see areas that needs some touching up but thats OK and Uncle Harry it took me this many yrs to receive my first gold star so thank you)


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## Dave Smith

Very-Very nice on your restoration--I think you could just turn the collect rack 180 degrees in your drawer and then your adapters would be in the front and easy to pull out---good job---Dave


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