# My New 1340GT



## wrmiller

Received word from Ray that the lathes are being prepped, so put the check in the mail. Check hit this morning, and received the 'Paid in Full' invoice from Ray last night. Just waiting on the tracking number...

:impatient:


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## darkzero

That's awesome, can't wait to see when you get it! :thumbsup2:


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## wrmiller

Not going to try and outdo Mike on his excellent review of his 1340, but I'll post some pics and impressions once I get it. Will be busy trying to figure out this 3ph/VFD wiring stuff for a bit, so don't ask for 'chips' right away. 

EDIT: Does anyone happen to know the shipping weight on this thing?


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## darkzero

No worries Mike. I never get sick of people posting their machines even if I am very familiar with them like my own machines. I don't think of them as reviews. I look at them as one's own personal experience with setup, usage, & mods (if any) so there's something that will always be different. And I'm sure those looking to buy like seeing more than just a review.


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## GA Gyro

wrmiller19 said:


> Not going to try and outdo Mike on his excellent review of his 1340, but I'll post some pics and impressions once I get it. Will be busy trying to figure out this 3ph/VFD wiring stuff for a bit, so don't ask for 'chips' right away.
> 
> EDIT: Does anyone happen to know the shipping weight on this thing?



Yeah, I received an Email from Ray... my check arrived and is in the bank. Awaiting a tracking number.

On the weight... webpage says around 1300# including the stand... the two cabinets come in a separate box.  I would guess... the crate with the lathe is around 1200#~, depending on what accessories are in the crate.


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## GA Gyro

wrmiller19 said:


> Not going to try and outdo Mike on his excellent review of his 1340, but I'll post some pics and impressions once I get it. Will be busy trying to figure out this 3ph/VFD wiring stuff for a bit, so don't ask for 'chips' right away.
> 
> EDIT: Does anyone happen to know the shipping weight on this thing?



Bill.... have you decided how you are going to do the wiring?  As in which controls to add, subtract, modify, etc?  
I am thinking to pretty much copy what Mike did with his... albeit the red stop button will be wired to a different pin on the VFD.. a 'quick stop' feature.  

The only thing different... will be the DRO head and MachTach (probably mount it below the DRO), not sure where to put it on the lathe... thinking out of the top of the rear elec box.... somewhere so when I look up from the chuck, I see the DRO and tach... rather than looking up and to the side.  At this point, I am thinking to put the VFD box on the lower left side (below the belt/gears), with the cooling fan blowing out the back.  
I am open to thoughts on where to put the DRO and tach... if anyone has ideas... :thinking:


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## wrmiller

GA said:


> Yeah, I received an Email from Ray... my check arrived and is in the bank. Awaiting a tracking number.
> 
> On the weight... webpage says around 1300# including the stand... the two cabinets come in a separate box.  I would guess... the crate with the lathe is around 1200#~, depending on what accessories are in the crate.



OK, thanks. Going to be right at what my big mill weighed.


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## GA Gyro

You are welcome...

My 935 weighed in close to 1800#~ in a 48x48x72 tall crate... was a mess to get into the basement.  

I may take the top off the lathe box outside and remove some of the weight... accessories and extra's from the crate.  Will need to get it into the basement through a 36" walk through door, and over an aluminum threshold.  Thinking to probably use two furniture carts (the rectangle frames with 4 heavy castors).  That way, I can 'walk it' along and over the threshold...
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.


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## wrmiller

GA said:


> You are welcome...
> 
> My 935 weighed in close to 1800#~ in a 48x48x72 tall crate... was a mess to get into the basement.
> 
> I may take the top off the lathe box outside and remove some of the weight... accessories and extra's from the crate.  Will need to get it into the basement through a 36" walk through door, and over an aluminum threshold.  Thinking to probably use two furniture carts (the rectangle frames with 4 heavy castors).  That way, I can 'walk it' along and over the threshold...
> Any suggestions would be much appreciated.



Can't help much here John, sorry. But I am impressed that you got that thing down a flight of stairs. My hat off to you Sir! 

 That 1800lbs is one of the main reasons why I didn't get that thing. It's just more thing that I don't want to deal with.


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## GA Gyro

wrmiller19 said:


> Can't help much here John, sorry. But I am impressed that you got that thing down a flight of stairs. My hat off to you Sir!
> 
> That 1800lbs is one of the main reasons why I didn't get that thing. It's just more thing that I don't want to deal with.



THX Bill... however it was not down stairs... the basement is a walk out... the driveway goes down into the back yard.  Years ago, thought about converting the single door to a double door (french door), 5 ft wide.... never did.  

The way to get a knee mill through a walk-thru door, is to remove the X table.  Ray told me to do this... worked fine.  The X table weighs over 100#, it took two of us to heft it back on.


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## mksj

GA said:


> I am open to thoughts on where to put the DRO and tach... if anyone has ideas... :thinking:



The position just below the DRO worked well for me, as I can see the DRO/speed at the same time. There isn't really any room to mount it below where the controls are.  If you do the compact (double decked) build of the MachTach, you can get it to fit in a Hammond 1590B box (cast aluminum and come painted on eBay for $10), but you need to cut the provided standoffs between the boards at least in 1/2, and mill out the enclosure so the the provided acrylic lens sits flush with the housing (i.e. check all the dimensions, heights, including the LED before you solder the boards together). A tight fit.  Otherwise maybe to the side of the DRO. DO NOT ground the cable shield between the pick-up sensor and the MachTach, I spent days trying to figure out why I had erratic readings. When the shielded is grounded, it picks up the VFD noise and counts them as pulses.

Will be interested in getting Bill's thoughts on the PBA chuck, so far, I really like mine. Will probably end up with a Bison combination 4 jaw 8", the Chinese Independent 4 jaw chuck purchased has quite a bit of vibration (out of balance) over 300RPM.


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## wrmiller

GA said:


> Bill.... have you decided how you are going to do the wiring?  As in which controls to add, subtract, modify, etc?
> I am thinking to pretty much copy what Mike did with his... albeit the red stop button will be wired to a different pin on the VFD.. a 'quick stop' feature.
> 
> The only thing different... will be the DRO head and MachTach (probably mount it below the DRO), not sure where to put it on the lathe... thinking out of the top of the rear elec box.... somewhere so when I look up from the chuck, I see the DRO and tach... rather than looking up and to the side.  At this point, I am thinking to put the VFD box on the lower left side (below the belt/gears), with the cooling fan blowing out the back.
> I am open to thoughts on where to put the DRO and tach... if anyone has ideas... :thinking:



No, haven't completely decided yet. But I'm thinking that I'll just use the controls available on the VFD (FWD, REV, JOG, etc.) and call it good to start. The circuit I remember seeing (Mark's?) had the VFDs 24v output sourcing the 'power' LED and the relay with the relay needing most of the available current. I'm thinking I need to leave the 240/24v transformer in there to power the halogen work light. I'll probably get the NEMA cabinet he recommended and just replace the factory electrical box. I 'should' be able to get everything into one box that way.

Won't make any final decisions on what to do until I get the lathe up on its stand and stare at it a bit. 

I have already bought those TE-CO leveling pads that Mike suggested though. These are some stout little buggers... :lmao:


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## GA Gyro

mksj said:


> The position just below the DRO worked well for me, as I can see the DRO/speed at the same time. There isn't really any room to mount it below where the controls are.  If you do the compact (double decked) build of the MachTach, you can get it to fit in a Hammond 1590B box (cast aluminum and come painted on eBay for $10), but you need to cut the provided standoffs between the boards at least in 1/2, and mill out the enclosure so the the provided acrylic lens sits flush with the housing (i.e. check all the dimensions, heights, including the LED before you solder the boards together). A tight fit.  Otherwise maybe to the side of the DRO. DO NOT ground the cable shield between the pick-up sensor and the MachTach, I spent days trying to figure out why I had erratic readings. When the shielded is grounded, it picks up the VFD noise and counts them as pulses.
> 
> Will be interested in getting Bill's thoughts on the PBA chuck, so far, I really like mine. Will probably end up with a Bison combination 4 jaw 8", the Chinese Independent 4 jaw chuck purchased has quite a bit of vibration (out of balance) over 300RPM.
> 
> View attachment 94344



THX Mark...

I have two of the MachTachs coming, both are the 'compact' design (stacked board).  What you show in the pic is probably what I will do with the lathe. And thx for the heads up on the shielded cable for the pickup... that kind of issue is frustrating until it is solved.

On the 935 mill... I am thinking to make a new (and larger) switch box for the left side of the mill head... put the forward reverse, speed pot, emergency stop button, and machtach in the box.  Probably need to do some internal shielding to keep the machtach separated from the other stuff.


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## GA Gyro

wrmiller19 said:


> No, haven't completely decided yet. But I'm thinking that I'll just use the controls available on the VFD (FWD, REV, JOG, etc.) and call it good to start. The circuit I remember seeing (Mark's?) had the VFDs 24v output sourcing the 'power' LED and the relay with the relay needing most of the available current. I'm thinking I need to leave the 240/24v transformer in there to power the halogen work light. I'll probably get the NEMA cabinet he recommended and just replace the factory electrical box. I 'should' be able to get everything into one box that way.
> 
> Won't make any final decisions on what to do until I get the lathe up on its stand and stare at it a bit.
> 
> I have already bought those TE-CO leveling pads that Mike suggested though. These are some stout little buggers... :lmao:



I agree on getting the lathe in the shop, on the stand, and just look at it.  Funny how the ideas just happen when one does that.  
I may need to set up a computer in the shop... will need to post here while I fiddle... LOL  
However... NOT when the machine(s) are running...


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## wrmiller

mksj said:


> The position just below the DRO worked well for me, as I can see the DRO/speed at the same time. There isn't really any room to mount it below where the controls are.  If you do the compact (double decked) build of the MachTach, you can get it to fit in a Hammond 1590B box (cast aluminum and come painted on eBay for $10), but you need to cut the provided standoffs between the boards at least in 1/2, and mill out the enclosure so the the provided acrylic lens sits flush with the housing (i.e. check all the dimensions, heights, including the LED before you solder the boards together). A tight fit.  Otherwise maybe to the side of the DRO. DO NOT ground the cable shield between the pick-up sensor and the MachTach, I spent days trying to figure out why I had erratic readings. When the shielded is grounded, it picks up the VFD noise and counts them as pulses.
> 
> Will be interested in getting Bill's thoughts on the PBA chuck, so far, I really like mine. Will probably end up with a Bison combination 4 jaw 8", the Chinese Independent 4 jaw chuck purchased has quite a bit of vibration (out of balance) over 300RPM.



This is good info, thanks!

I am contemplating popping for a 8" PBA set-tru because I already have a 5" on the little SB and the 6" just doesn't seem like much of a jump in capacity. But it's $300 more than the 6" so I'm going to have to get a little creative in order to do this. Probably means putting off the Dorian for a while. I will pop for a 4-jaw when I find I need it, and it will probably be a Bison as well. Took a year before I found I needed one for my SB and have only used it once. I do mostly roundy round stuff on the lathe. :lmao:

Thanks again for the suggestions.


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## wrmiller

Hey Mark,

That encoder you show: Is that optical?


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## wrmiller

GA said:


> I agree on getting the lathe in the shop, on the stand, and just look at it.  Funny how the ideas just happen when one does that.
> I may need to set up a computer in the shop... will need to post here while I fiddle... LOL
> However... NOT when the machine(s) are running...



I have a iPhone 6 plus for that. :lmao:


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## Smudgemo

GA said:


> You are welcome...
> 
> My 935 weighed in close to 1800#~ in a 48x48x72 tall crate... was a mess to get into the basement.
> 
> I may take the top off the lathe box outside and remove some of the weight... accessories and extra's from the crate.  Will need to get it into the basement through a 36" walk through door, and over an aluminum threshold.  Thinking to probably use two furniture carts (the rectangle frames with 4 heavy castors).  That way, I can 'walk it' along and over the threshold...
> Any suggestions would be much appreciated.



Seems like a portable gantry and a trolley would work nicely to get it in place.  Up, slide, down, reposition, repeat.  
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200356724_200356724 Maybe you can rent one?


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## GA Gyro

Smudgemo said:


> Seems like a portable gantry and a trolley would work nicely to get it in place.  Up, slide, down, reposition, repeat.
> http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200356724_200356724 Maybe you can rent one?



I have a one ton engine hoist... setting the lathe is not the issue.  

The issue is getting the approx 24" x 24" x 72" crate through the 36" wide walk through door... without destroying the aluminum threshold.


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## mksj

Hi Bill,

I started with an optical and machined the cogged aluminum ring for it, but couldn't get a steady rpm. In hindsight it was probably that I was grounding the cable. When I spoke to the MAcTach designer, he said the optical works well, but the height setting given in the manual is critical. Too close or too far, and it will not work. He recommended the black tape and some of the reflective tape at evenly spaced intervals (which was missing on mine). I ended up with the hall sensor and some magnets, very stable readings. If I were to do it again, I would make a round aluminum ring, bore some small holes for the round magnets and glue them in with epoxy. So it was a learning experience.

PBA 8", that a big (bad) boy, really depends on what stock you normally use, otherwise use an 8" independent if infrequent. I did some square stock the other day, so had to switch it out to the independent, but had the vibration issue.  I think a good QCTP makes a world of difference, but it is always a finical dilemma. Just get the QCTP alone if it is the Dorian, not the package. I like most of the Aloris holders better.

On another tangent, these tool cabinets from HF are great for all you tool holders,  etc. I use one on the side of my mill and another for the lathe (you do need to add some wheels on the bottom), they are a good size and height for frequently used items. I also place stuff on the tops that I am actively using (indicators, holders, etc.).  Good price and decent quality, just do not like the shiny red on the new ones. Won't fit most chucks, but I have seen people use square weld tubing platform between the cabinets to make shelves for the chucks and heavy tooling storage (also adds weight to the lathe base). http://www.harborfreight.com/18-in-7-drawer-glossy-red-end-cabinet-for-roller-tool-chest-68785.html

If you mount the VFD in a separate NEMA cabinet like the one noted, I probably would mount it on the back of the splash shield if your lathe is not going against a wall. Otherwise, leave enough cable and mount to a wall. Just did a complete VFD build for another member, this is what we ended up doing, except he is mounting it on the splash shield back at the tail stock end instead of the headstock due to access reasons. I also mounted a 5C collet rack at the tail stock end on the lathe cabinet so I have quick access to the collets. You can also use a DIN steel rail for the the QCTP tool holders if you do not have a side cabinet to put them in. Also didn't like the light mounted at the headstock end, as it can interferes with the DRO when you reposition it (remounted mine more toward the center of the splash field).  Lots of options....., have fun with your new lathes, you will really appreciate them in use. Look forward to your builds and comments.
Mark


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## brav65

GA said:


> You are welcome...
> 
> My 935 weighed in close to 1800#~ in a 48x48x72 tall crate... was a mess to get into the basement.
> 
> I may take the top off the lathe box outside and remove some of the weight... accessories and extra's from the crate.  Will need to get it into the basement through a 36" walk through door, and over an aluminum threshold.  Thinking to probably use two furniture carts (the rectangle frames with 4 heavy castors).  That way, I can 'walk it' along and over the threshold...
> Any suggestions would be much appreciated.




John,

the he guys that move safes use large aluminum plates and just roll right over the threshold.  I am not sure if you could rent them or not.   I just had a very large safe moved for a customer up one flight of stairs and through two doors.  They used a hand truck with little hooks on a chain with an a
electric motor.  The hooks caught on the stair tred and lifted the hand truck up.  Very slick set up.  I asked the guy where he got it and he said he made it.


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## mksj

GA said:


> I have a one ton engine hoist... setting the lathe is not the issue.
> 
> The issue is getting the approx 24" x 24" x 72" crate through the 36" wide walk through door... without destroying the aluminum threshold.



Heavy 3/4" plywood ramp, maybe 2 layers. Cut up some wood 2" round dowels to go under it. Still do not thing it is going to work, mine was on a pallet which was partially destroyed. You might pull it from the shipping crate and make some mini dollies to role it on, kind of what they put under car wheels.. My 1 ton engine hoist didn't really have enough reach to get the lathe from the headstock end.


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## wrmiller

Wow...thanks Mark. More stuff to buy! :rofl:

Seriously, thanks. I really like that little tool box. :thinking:

As for the lathe, it will likely sit about 2-2.5' from the wall or I may come perpendicular from the wall and out onto the floor. I may make a mockup out of cardboard to see how this will all work. How long is your lathe?


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## GA Gyro

brav65 said:


> John,
> 
> the he guys that move safes use large aluminum plates and just roll right over the threshold.  I am not sure if you could rent them or not.   I just had a very large safe moved for a customer up one flight of stairs and through two doors.  They used a hand truck with little hooks on a chain with an a
> electric motor.  The hooks caught on the stair tred and lifted the hand truck up.  Very slick set up.  I asked the guy where he got it and he said he made it.





mksj said:


> Heavy 3/4" plywood ramp, maybe 2 layers. Cut up some wood 2" round dowels to go under it. Still do not thing it is going to work, mine was on a pallet which was partially destroyed. You might pull it from the shipping crate and make some mini dollies to role it on, kind of what they put under car wheels.. My 1 ton engine hoist didn't really have enough reach to get the lathe from the headstock end.



THX, this is close to what I had in mind... make two gradual ramps to go up 1.5", and then back down 1.5".  Then use a couple of furniture dollies (rectangle with 4 castors).  I have two that are used to move piano's, they are rated at 1000# each.  
The other thing I will need is 'A few good men'...


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## mksj

Well all sounds good. Lathe drip pan is ~18x70" plus some room to remove the pulley cover. Two feet behind the lathe should be fine to access a VFD/control box. I also ended up buying a 5/8" Jergens 2 Ton Hoist Ring and a long 5/8" bolt that mounts between two plates for further lifting (this is also in the manual). Even though the lathe is "relatively" lite weight, it was awkward to move. Luckily I had my wife "supervising" when lifting it and setting it on the cabinets (be sure to put some sealant around the drip pan bolt holes before setting the lathe down). Sorry Bill, the hobby is a money pit. I have probably spent at least twice what I thought I would spend, and I still have a few more big ticket items. Now a bigger mill would be really nice.


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## mksj

Any news on the arrival of your machines?

I updated a possible wiring diagram for the PM1340GT conversion to VFD which includes 2 braking algorithms. It requires the VFD input 4 programmed for 2 step deceleration. Under normal use it defaults to 2 step braking, something like 4+1 seconds unless power to input 4 is interrupted. I use 1 second single step braking with a braking resistor, as I prefer not to have the lathe spinning for 5+ seconds when stopping. In reality it takes 2 seconds to stop at the slower speeds depending on the chuck mass. You can also add a manual switch to choose between the two different braking options.

Updated Schematic, Added Green Ground wire to negative terminal of the relay (stupid me).




View attachment PM1340GT lathe VFD Schematic rev 2.pdf


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## wrmiller

Matt told me Monday that I should have a tracking number "soon".   :lmao:

I'm sure the guys are working hard on getting these prepped and out the door. But patience isn't my strong suit. :whistle:

I probably should start ordering some parts like the relay, relay socket, enclosure, etc. And I'll print out this new schematic and look it over. Thanks Mark.

Edit: Actually I said I was going to wait until I received the lathe before I started ordering parts...  *sigh* :rofl:


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## wrmiller

Hey Mark,

Where does the braking resistor tie in on this schematic? Is it a 50 ohm/500w or a 100 ohm/500w? Thanks.


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## mksj

Hi Bill,

Braking resistor for this model varies on application so anything between 50-100 ohms should work fine, and a resistor dissipation between 200-500W should work because the duty cycle is so short. It mostly keeps the VFD from tripping and going into an error message mode. The encapsulated ones with leads work well, just screw them to the VFD terminals and mount the resistor to a metal surface.
Some specs: http://www.hitachi-america.us/suppo...port/Selection Chart_Jan 2013_ROC revised.pdf

This is what I used on a recent build for someone else ($20 - 300W 70 Ohms): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solder-Lug-...654?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51c6041a6e

It is not in the schematic, the schematic is only the control circuit. Download this file, it gives the specifics on other connections: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87276&d=1415299403


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## Dan_S

wrmiller19 said:


> But patience isn't my strong suit. :whistle:
> 
> I probably should start ordering some parts like the relay, relay socket, enclosure, etc. And I'll print out this new schematic and look it over.



I'm the same way, and since I have at least another 2 months till my mill to arrives, I've been ordering all kinds of tooling to keep my self from going crazy.


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## wrmiller

Two months?!? I'd shoot myself. :lmao: (just kidding dude...)

Matt (bless his heart) has had to deal with me before when I bought my PM25, so I consider it a privilege that he was willing to sell me another machine. So I'm trying to be good and not pester him to death. )




Dan_S said:


> I'm the same way, and since I have at least another 2 months till my mill to arrives, I've been ordering all kinds of tooling to keep my self from going crazy.


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## mksj

Bill and John,

I just reloaded the schematic information, it was missing the negative (0 V) connection to the relay negative coil terminal (A2). Sorry guys, must be old age setting in. Normally, I like to build it myself and check everything out. But really should be fairly basic with regard to the relay connections. You probably want to keep the 24VAC transformer and fuse for powering the light, this requires 240V to the transformer. You can connect the 24VAC to terminals 11 and 12, connect the light power to these. You need a power disconnect for the 240V, and should use fuses in each leg or a 30A supplemental dual breaker. In a recent build, I used a SquareD MG17447 which I picked up at a reasonable price (definitely not list). There are lot of ways to do the install, just remember with 240V, there is no second chances.

If you run into any issues, send me a PM either with an email or number and I can try to assist. I recommend that when you start adjusting the WJ200 parameters that you use a computer to program the changes. It is possible to send you a VFD file, but I had issues trying to download the file from my PC, vs. directly programing the VFD with the PC attached.


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## Leagle

I have had this machine for several months now.  I have had so much fun with it that I have not posted anything in a while.  This is a great machine and you will love it.  The only problems that I had had with it are due to the loose nut behind the controls.  When I first received it, I had to ask a lot of really dumb questions.  Both Ray and the folks at PM were incredibly patient and very understanding.  Kudos to Ray for not putting a hit out on me.


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## fastback

Glad to hear that the lathe is coming.  I hope it is worth the wait. Looking forward to your review.  Make sure you put some towels on it before doing anything to protect it from the drools.  Good luck on the new machine.

Paul


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## GA Gyro

fastback said:


> Glad to hear that the lathe is coming.  I hope it is worth the wait. Looking forward to your review.  *Make sure you put some towels on it before doing anything to protect it from the drools.*  Good luck on the new machine.
> 
> Paul



Already been through that with the PM935... THX for the heads up... LOL 
On a side note... am looking around this new forum, trying to find all the emoticons... where did they hide them.  Found the smiley faces... still trying to find the other ones.


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## GA Gyro

Leagle said:


> I have had this machine for several months now.  I have had so much fun with it that I have not posted anything in a while.  This is a great machine and you will love it.  The only problems that I had had with it are due to the loose nut behind the controls.  When I first received it, I had to ask a lot of really dumb questions.  Both Ray and the folks at PM were incredibly patient and very understanding.  Kudos to Ray for not putting a hit out on me.



Loose nut behind the controls... 

I am assuming this is behind the electric controls???  Was this covered in a forum post? 
Would like to see a picture of this if available, to check the nut when setting up and cleaning... THX


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## marcusp323

Sure he's referring to the operator, John, but maybe he'll send you some "selfies"!!!


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## wrmiller




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## FOMOGO

To get over the threshold just use several 3' lengths of 2" pvc pipe on either side of the threshold and just roll it in. Mike


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## darkzero

GA Gyro said:


> On a side note... am looking around this new forum, trying to find all the emoticons... where did they hide them.  Found the smiley faces... still trying to find the other ones.


Smiley sets have not been uploaded yet. Last I heard Nelson was getting an error when trying to load the emoticons we used to have.


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## GA Gyro

marcusp323 said:


> Sure he's referring to the operator, John, but maybe he'll send you some "selfies"!!!



There is not doubt there will be a 'loose nut' behind the controls of my 1340 for a while...
Missed that one completely... (insert pic of slapping forehead... hey leadership team... where are the emoticoms...  )


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## GA Gyro

darkzero said:


> Smiley sets have not been uploaded yet. Last I heard Nelson was getting an error when trying to load the emoticons we used to have.



THX!

I did not use a lot of them... however a couple on the basic page were fun:
LMAO
ROFLMAO
THUMBSUP
VICTORY
WAGGING FINGER
SORRY
UPS GUY
PANIC
HAPPY
THINKING
ETC

THX to all the folks that put in the hard work for the upgrade... still figuring out the new forum... it looks nice!
John


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## GA Gyro

FOMOGO said:


> To get over the threshold just use several 3' lengths of 2" pvc pipe on either side of the threshold and just roll it in. Mike



That may well be the easy way to do it... and I just happen to have a bunch of SC40 2" PVC around.  I figure 6 pieces (min 4 at one time) should be enough to support around 1200#.  

THX!


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## wrmiller

You guys waiting for your 1340s: Has anyone heard anything yet? I know the weather is bad, and that I'm probably dead last on the list but man this is getting tough...


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## GA Gyro

I have Emailed with Matt to add a few things to the order... as of Tuesday they have not shipped.  
I suspect any day now... however with the weather as it is... the freight carriers (last fall it was UPS ground for my PM935), may be holding it up.  

I am guessing sometime next week (last week of Feb) for delivery to me (last fall took 4 days from Pittsburgh in good weather).  Maybe if Matt can get them out by Friday... they can 'travel' over the weekend.  
Thankfully, mine is going to one of my supply houses... as I have two heating and AC system changes to do next week. 
Probably get the mgr at the supply house to bring it to me at the end of the day.  

Then the fun begins... 
*Build the stand and paint it
*Mount the cabinets on the stand and the lathe on the cabinets
*Wire the VFD including a cabinet
*Mount the DRO head (not sure where that will go yet)
*Cleaning
*Adjusting
*Compensating for the nut behind the controls... 
(And along the way mount the toolbox under and between the cabinets... I am thinking to build a small platform on the stand, rather than hang it from something below the chip pan).
Then the REAL fun begins... 
MAKING CHIPS 
(Now where is that icon of dancing around happy... LOL)


----------



## wrmiller

Thanks.


----------



## marcusp323

Got my tracking # from Nicole this morning, now the REAL waiting begins!!!


----------



## GA Gyro

Waaahhhh...

I want a tracking number... 

In due time, I am sure.

Good for you Marcus!


----------



## Ulma Doctor

can't wait to see the new 1340!!!


----------



## wrmiller

(picture of Bill checking his email every 10 min...)


----------



## tmarks11

GA Gyro said:


> Then the fun begins...
> *Build the stand and paint it


Easy solution: just bolt it to the floor and call it done!



GA Gyro said:


> (And along the way mount the toolbox under and between the cabinets... I am thinking to build a small platform on the stand, rather than hang it from something below the chip pan).


Just a word of warning: good way to fill your toolbox up with chips... they can get in everywhere...  I find it more convenient to keep my tools in a 26" roll around tool chest with a plywood top to use as a work surface.  It can get stored out of the way when I am not using the lathe.


----------



## GA Gyro

tmarks11 said:


> Easy solution: just bolt it to the floor and call it done!
> 
> 
> Just a word of warning: good way to fill your toolbox up with chips... they can get in everywhere...  I find it more convenient to keep my tools in a 26" roll around tool chest with a plywood top to use as a work surface.  It can get stored out of the way when I am not using the lathe.



THX for the thoughts... 
The reason to build the stand is two-fold:
One is I am a tall guy... want the work level a bit higher.
The other is portability... the lathe stand is designed with removable 'outriggers' (similar to a large mobile crane)... so I can raise and roll the lathe when necessary.  There is a move in my future... not gonna live in a house with two flights of stairs to the bedroom into retirement... 

As to the tool-box under the lathe... space is a premium.  You are not the first to mention the potential for chips in the box... I think I have a possible way to keep that down... we will see.  The plan is to build a platform (probably wood) on the stand, and set the box on the platform (under the chip pan in the middle).  THX for the input.


----------



## coolidge

tmarks11 said:


> Easy solution: just bolt it to the floor and call it done!
> 
> 
> Just a word of warning: good way to fill your toolbox up with chips... they can get in everywhere...  I find it more convenient to keep my tools in a 26" roll around tool chest with a plywood top to use as a work surface.  It can get stored out of the way when I am not using the lathe.



Agree, Costco sells a large stainless roll around chest with a hardwood top at a very reasonable price, about $400.


----------



## coolidge

Bill I visit your thread daily in anticipation of giving you the 'congrats on your new lathe' post...I'm going away again with a :-( see you tomorrow.


----------



## wrmiller

coolidge said:


> Bill I visit your thread daily in anticipation of giving you the 'congrats on your new lathe' post...I'm going away again with a :-( see you tomorrow.



No one is more anxious than I, but I do appreciate the thought. Maybe next week.


----------



## tmarks11

coolidge said:


> Agree, Costco sells a large stainless roll around chest with a hardwood top at a very reasonable price, about $400.


I am a big fan of the Harbor Freight 26" chest.  It has 8 shallow drawers, which is ideal for storing machinist tooling. The bottom drawers are big enough to put 6" lathe chucks in. These chests are far superior to the Craftsman variety... I have two 26" craftsman ball-bearing chests in my garage next to this one, and it puts them to shame.  Thicker steel, sturdier construction, rolled edges to the sheet metal.  At a cheaper price.  The top chest is very deep, and again is ideal for storing endmills, DTI, etc.

I am not a HF fan, but one of my friends had one of these chests and raved about it.  Once I saw it, I understood why.  Get it on sale with a coupon for $330 (with the 8 drawer topper):

http://www.harborfreight.com/tool-s...er-glossy-red-roller-cabinet-combo-67831.html


----------



## wrmiller

So I've pretty much decided on the first upgrades/enhancements for the new lathe:

Pratt Burnerd Setrite 3-jaw, 8"
Dorian 5-piece QCTP set BXA
DroPros EL400 magnetic 2-axis DRO
Shars 7 piece indexable turning set, 3/4"

That should get me started.


----------



## GA Gyro

That should keep you busy for a while Bill...

I will be occupied with the stand and wiring for a few weeks... then I have some lathe work to do.  
Both for my Gyro, and for a couple of paying customers... Thankfully they waited for me... hope it stays like that as I build a business making custom parts.


----------



## brav65

Nice selections, business must be good!


----------



## wrmiller

Waiting on a check from Morgan Stanley...


----------



## GA Gyro

wrmiller19 said:


> Waiting on a check from Morgan Stanley...


Mine come from Chas Schwab... well they are electronically moved from there...  
Thankfully, there should be a stream of them adequate to allow me to (modestly) exist and play in the shop when I retire.  

Now if the lathe's would just ship... I suspect Monday or Tuesday we will get some tracking numbers...
I heard Matt had a power outage and negative F temps last week... that may be part of the slow progress.  If it gets to Atlanta by the end of February, I will be good... have a VERY busy week this week with heating calls and furnace replacements.


----------



## wrmiller

No "stream" for me. Just part of a small stock option from work. 

Next week would be a big no-no for me. We got a bunch of snow last night and the high today is supposed to be a whole 19 degrees. Then snow in the middle of this next week. I may need a couple of weeks for this shi...er...stuff to clear.

This ol' boy from Tucson isn't liking this Winter nonsense.


----------



## brav65

Bill I hate to tell you, but it is partly sunny and 75 degrees here in Phoenix.  I am probably going to have to wear jeans in the shop today to keep the chill at bay


----------



## wrmiller

There's one in every crowd... 

With any luck I'll be back down there in about 3 years.


----------



## GA Gyro

wrmiller19 said:


> No "stream" for me. Just part of a small stock option from work.
> 
> Next week would be a big no-no for me. We got a bunch of snow last night and the high today is supposed to be a whole 19 degrees. Then snow in the middle of this next week. I may need a couple of weeks for this shi...er...stuff to clear.
> 
> *This ol' boy from Tucson isn't liking this Winter nonsense.*



That makes two of us...

I grew up in Houston TX... rarely gets below 30D F.
Thankfully in our cold snap here in Atlanta last week, we did not have enough snow or ice (at least I missed it) to mess with traffic or life...
But my area is not set up for temps below 20-ish... and we just almost touched single digits twice.

If I get a tracking number, I will let you know and you can call Matt and ask him to hold off for a few days.


----------



## coolidge

wrmiller19 said:


> So I've pretty much decided on the first upgrades/enhancements for the new lathe:
> 
> Pratt Burnerd Setrite 3-jaw, 8"
> Dorian 5-piece QCTP set BXA
> DroPros EL400 magnetic 2-axis DRO
> Shars 7 piece indexable turning set, 3/4"
> 
> That should get me started.



Bill do you have a chop saw? If so you may want to pick up the metal cutting blade DroPro's recommend for trimming the scales to length. Also check out my old G4003G thread on that install, I had to manufacture a long reach drill and tap for the cross feed install.


----------



## coolidge

wrmiller19 said:


> There's one in every crowd...
> 
> With any luck I'll be back down there in about 3 years.



Don't you have to pay personal property tax on your machines in AZ? I was looking at real estate in other states this weekend and that's one thing that turned me off on AZ.


----------



## brav65

We have a sales tax, but I am not familiar with a personal property tax on Machines.  I will have to ask my accountant.


----------



## coolidge

Non-commercial "household goods" are exempt, but is machinery for hobby use considered household goods. Residential is one of the four classifications of personal property, commercial, industrial, agricultural, residential. Machinery is listed as taxable personal property. Its not clear if machinery for hobby use would be taxable based on what I read.

I see they also basically steal the trade in value of your vehicle taxing you for a percentage of its value every year.


----------



## wrmiller

coolidge said:


> Bill do you have a chop saw? If so you may want to pick up the metal cutting blade DroPro's recommend for trimming the scales to length. Also check out my old G4003G thread on that install, I had to manufacture a long reach drill and tap for the cross feed install.



I have a small/cheap chop saw I use for golf shafts. I planned on watching DroPro's video on cutting these things before doing anything anyway, so I'll check on the blade they recommend. Matt says they get the 8x40 scales for their DRO installs on the 1340s, and DroPros offers a 8x40 size in the EL400 series. I may not have to cut them, but we'll see.


----------



## wrmiller

coolidge said:


> Non-commercial "household goods" are exempt, but is machinery for hobby use considered household goods. Residential is one of the four classifications of personal property, commercial, industrial, agricultural, residential. Machinery is listed as taxable personal property. Its not clear if machinery for hobby use would be taxable based on what I read.



My machines were not classified as taxable. Now if I were to go buy a $15k CNC they probably would tax that. IF they knew about it.


----------



## mksj

The world is being taxed to death.


----------



## tmarks11

wrmiller19 said:


> So I've pretty much decided on the first upgrades/enhancements for the new lathe:
> ...Shars 7 piece indexable turning set, 3/4"


You sure those will fit in your tool post?

Are you getting it with a QCTP from PM?  If not, you need to add a QCTP to your shopping list (the wedge type, not the piston type).  A must have.

Usually, the BXA size is what fits on a 13x40 lathe.  And the normal BXA tool holders only fit 5/8" tools.


----------



## wrmiller

Dorian BXA tool holders are 5/8" to 1"

But...having said that, I have to make sure I can get a 3/4" holder on centerline. That will be the test BEFORE I buy the set. Otherwise it will be the 5/8" set.


----------



## mksj

I already made the mistake of having of purchasing some Dorian BXA oversize holders, they do not work with 5/8" tooling without a 0.300" spacer underneath them, might work with 3/4, should work with 1" tooling. Problem is the adjustment range with the larger holder. All my turning tools are 5/8" so far and they are in Aloris BXA-1 or 2  holders, will probably get a 1" cut off and use one of my oversized Dorian holders. 5/8" works just fine.


----------



## wrmiller

Ok. Griz site doesn't say they are oversize, just that AXA is 3/8-3/4 and BXA is 5/8-1. How much adjustment range do you have on the Dorian BXA? Thanks.


----------



## mksj

Adjustment range varies with type of holder, standard Aloris BXA 5/8" holders have ~0.9", Dorian BXA 1" oversize ~0.37".


----------



## wrmiller

Looks like if I want the Dorian I just buy the tool post and buy Aloris #2s. Or I could just buy the Aloris set and be done with it. Thanks.


----------



## coolidge

(sigh)...(drums fingers on desk)...(not seeing any new lathe pictures Coolidge wanders off)


----------



## frostheave

Will made a nice post with Dorian holder info.  See it here:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/upgrading-to-a-qctp-advice-please.26610/#post-234322


----------



## wrmiller

Thanks! Read that quite a while back, but forgot about it. (where's the 'thanks' button?)


----------



## wrmiller

Well, Matt told me yesterday that this latest batch of 1340s are done and shipping, and that mine will ship soon. We're getting hammered right now with snow. Been going on since last weekend, and is forcasted off and on through next Wed. Warmer and sunny is predicted for next Thur and Friday. Keeping fingers crossed.

I mentioned before that I have a fairly steep driveway, well last night it really hit home when I pulled into the driveway (Jeep now sits outside since I started moving things around for the lathe) and after I got out it decided to slide down the driveway and into the street. With the trans in Park and the parking brake on. Pulled back into the driveway, and it did it again. Really weird to watch. So it spent the night last night on the street. Fortunately, the driveway was clear this evening. No clue about tomorrow...


----------



## GA Gyro

Yeah, mine shipped earlier this week... had a tracking number early Wednesday morning.  As of Thursday afternoon, had not arrived at the supply house that is receiving it for me.  We had un-seasonably cold and icy/snowy weather last week and this week... however it looks like it is clearing up.  I need to call UPSground in the morning and see if it is gonna deliver Friday or next week.


----------



## wrmiller

I put a deposit on the very last one available, so mine will likely be the last out the door...

Good to hear about yours though!


----------



## GA Gyro

THX Bill... In a week or so... we all will have our lathe's and be busy as beavers getting them set up.  

Then the REAL fun begins... making chips!

Hey... we need a 'making chips' icon... LOL


----------



## marcusp323

Got a call from the shipping company (was supposed to arrive Wed the 25th, but.........), Delivery scheduled for the 4th now, but it's a tangible date anyway!


----------



## GA Gyro

Just looked up the tracking number online... the package is in 'North Atlanta center'... which means about 5 miles away.  
It will be delivered to the dock of a supply house... so it 'should' get there today... we will see.

Gonna be a BUSY weekend... I suspect all I am gonna get done is get the crates into the basement this evening.
I have a shooting competition Saturday (quarterly thing with HVAC/R guys, won it in Oct).  
And a milling project (prototype) to work on all day Sunday.

If I can get the crate inside and opened... I think that will be a good start.

So far, no HVAC/R system changes next week, so if the weather is good, may get some work done on the stand.


----------



## zmotorsports

Sorry, I missed this thread.  Been busy as hell lately and haven't been on the forum much.

Glad to hear you guys are near to getting your lathes, sounds like some sooner than others but close none the same.  I am excited to see you receive them and get them all setup and making chips.

Congrats.

Mike.


----------



## wrmiller

Last I talked to Matt, they were waiting(?) on a motor for me as the one they had was all dented (but he said the box was perfect, not sure how that could happen). But then said they could ship it UPS and I'd have it in a matter of days. So I really don't know what's going on just yet. Weather is going to be crap through Wed next week anyway.

I did order my PB chuck and DRO last night, so I felt pretty good about that.


----------



## wrmiller

Just talked to Matt on the phone: It appears that the company that Matt buys these 3 phase motors from has no idea when one for me might show up. First it was late Feb. Now it's end of March. But Matt told me he has one of the factory 3 phase motors and that he'd issue me a refund/credit for the difference. I figure if that motor is good enough for Mike and others here, it's OK in my book. I told him to throw a couple extra BXA #2s in the box and we'd call it good. 

Oh...and the horse has left the barn. Matt says he should have a tracking # for me later today.


----------



## brav65

Show us the pictures when it comes or else buddy, capische?


----------



## zmotorsports

Bill, I think you will be happy with the factory optioned 3-phase motor.  I have no issues with mine nor do I see any reason why I would in the future.  What made the most difference on my lathe was just replacing the belt with a higher quality one.

Mike.


----------



## wrmiller

zmotorsports said:


> Bill, I think you will be happy with the factory optioned 3-phase motor.  I have no issues with mine nor do I see any reason why I would in the future.  What made the most difference on my lathe was just replacing the belt with a higher quality one.
> 
> Mike.



Yea, I have the number for that belt written down somewhere. Guess I should go buy one.


----------



## mksj

The factory 3 phase motor seem to work fine with the WJ200. The only caveat is to set the VFD frequency to at least to 12KHz, otherwise the motor wine is worse than a cat in heat. When I was looking at other possible motor options, the Leeson metric motor (which is commonly used) body was too long; it measures 10.8" vs stock which is 10". The space behind the stock motor blower cover to splash shield is ~3/4". Only 2HP motor that had a short body, was something along the lines of a Marathon E467 TENV type, it has a 9 1/4" body with a 145T frame.

Belts:
Ended up getting some Gates Tri-Power V-Belts, both BX24 and BX25. Needed both sizes, as I did not have enough adjustment range with one belt depending on the pulley range used. Probably some metric length in between the two, also varies by brand and V configuration.  Been very happy with the belts so far, they are cogged and grip well. A lot less debris flying off the gates than the stock belt. 
ww.royalsupply.com/store/pc/Gates-BX24-Tri-Power-V-Belt-9013-2024-1095p36411.htm
http://www.royalsupply.com/store/pc/Gates-BX25-Tri-Power-V-Belt-9013-2025-1095p36412.htm


----------



## coolidge

wrmiller19 said:


> Just talked to Matt on the phone: It appears that the company that Matt buys these 3 phase motors from has no idea when one for me might show up. First it was late Feb. Now it's end of March. But Matt told me he has one of the factory 3 phase motors and that he'd issue me a refund/credit for the difference. I figure if that motor is good enough for Mike and others here, it's OK in my book. I told him to throw a couple extra BXA #2s in the box and we'd call it good.
> 
> Oh...and the horse has left the barn. Matt says he should have a tracking # for me later today.



Congrats!


----------



## wrmiller

Thanks guys. I have even begun stocking up on some of the larger stuff I've been needing.


----------



## GA Gyro

Well... my lathe is here... yet it is not here.... LOL

It made it to the supply house early this afternoon... however I had a couple of issues finishing a job... and was not done until around 6-ish.  The supply house will be open in the morning... so I have to decide if I am gonna go to the shoot-off, or get my lathe.  I have a boatload of stuff I need to do around the house... and tomorrow is the last day until next Saturday it will not be raining... I am seriously considering letting the shoot-off go.

If I get the lathe... will attempt to post a few pics of the box in the basement, hopefully opened.

Bill... The factory motor in the PM935 mill 3HP 3PH is fine... you will probably be fine with the factory motor.  I am figuring about 2-3 years give or take... before any issues with the factory motor... then get a good one.  That works for me.

Does anyone know if the 935 and the 1340 come from the same factory in Taiwan?  Curious???

BTW Bill... I like your collection of 'essentials'...


----------



## coolidge

wrmiller19 said:


> Thanks guys. I have even begun stocking up on some of the larger stuff I've been needing.



I don't see any stainless wth?


----------



## wrmiller

Cheaper stuff first...(sheesh...always critics)


----------



## wrmiller

Sorry, double post (stupid Java)


----------



## coolidge

Gunrunner you need to order a set of these for the Z axis hand crank. Bill did you just spit coffee on your monitor? :rofl:

View attachment 253356


----------



## wrmiller

We can certainly do some comparisons. Although I don't think you can convince me to turn my 1.5" TGP sticks as those are destined for a tool and cutter grinder project.

Unless you want to send me those samples...ROFLMAO.


----------



## GA Gyro

Got my lathe home, uncrated, and went through all the accessories.  
The documentation with the lathe is better than with the 935 mill... leads me to think they may come from a different factory.
I am impressed with this machine... even though all I have done is take the crate off (lathe is still on the base of the crate).  
The norton gearbox will do lots of SAE size threads without gear changes... and the two odd gears to do metric came in the tool-box.  
Lots of accessories came with it... all I need now are some cutting tools.  
Matt did forget to mount the QCTP... however that will not take long.  
And as I requested, Matt mounted the scales for the DRO, yet did not mount the head.  He did not mount the worklight either... not sure where I am gonna put that yet.
One of these days/evenings, I need to set up a work area and assemble the two MachTach's... one for each machine.  Then find appropriate boxes and set them up. 

Back on the lathe: unpacked the two base cabinets, stood them up and set the chip pan on top and aligned the holes.  Then measured and cut out the pieces of metal for the stand.  The stand will feature the same 'outriggers' I designed for the PM935 mill... they can be attached to move the machine, or removed and stored.  The machine(s) also have screw feet for leveling.  
I need to do some milling on some of the pieces of the stand, then weld them up, clean them, and paint them.  The base is painted something that looks like dark Navy grey... I am thinking to sand it and paint it my adopted shop color:  Rustoleum 'Royal Blue' (brushed on, not rattle can).  And I have a modification for the wheels of my Jet 7x12 bandsaw... it has two sets of axle wheels (no swivel castors)... so moving it other than in a straight line is kinda rough on the back (pick up one end and turn it).  I made a short piece of 2x2x1/8 tubing with 2 castors welded on, need to clean it and paint it also, then attach it to the bandsaw. 
Hope to get the stand done by next weekend, then I can get started on the electrical.  

Hope the rest of you get your lathe's soon... All the receive/clean/set up threads will be fun to read... I will start one soon when I get some pics and figure out how to upload them.


----------



## wrmiller

Good to hear John. 

Tracking number estimates next Friday the 6th, but that may not account for the transfer to a liftgate truck. I'll create a setup thread once I have it in my garage.


----------



## marcusp323

Mine arrived today. Haven't uncrated it yet though. Unfortunately overworked my back this past Sunday with 2 moving jobs (me & my volunteering with out any thought.......). 
Will have to be gentle with self & THINK about how to proceed rather than just use force to move this heavy thing around. On a positive note, managed to get the crate onto a couple moving dollies for the short trip into the shop. Couple pics just for tease.


----------



## darkzero

Congrats on the delivery. Not sure if Bill minds but you guys taking delivery of these should really start your own threads on your own deliveries. It will help keep things organized & specific to your own setups & experiences.


----------



## wrmiller

Naw, I don't mind. Other than I haven't received mine yet. 5 days and it has only managed to get from PA to IL.


----------



## GA Gyro

THX Bill... I suspect each of us will start a new machine thread... these posts are more 'YEAH, it got here' posts.

Weather must be a factor... mine took the usual 4 days to get from PA to GA... it went via a transfer station in SC.


----------



## coolidge

First I was like oh man Bill got his new lathe, then I was like


----------



## wrmiller

coolidge said:


> First I was like oh man Bill got his new lathe, then I was like



Eventually. I hope. It's been sitting in a distribution center in IL for two days now.


----------



## coolidge

wrmiller19 said:


> Eventually. I hope. It's been sitting in a distribution center in IL for two days now.



Been there done that brother, its annoying having to wait for them to fill a trailer.


----------



## raven7usa

If Bill had ordered a bigger lathe, the trailer would be full by now.


----------



## brav65

I think your right maybe he should cancel and get a 14x40!


----------



## wrmiller

I have a host of friends...  

EDIT: Just checked and RoadRunner has my lathe on it's way to Denver.


----------



## wrmiller

So the PBA showed up and I thought I'd post a quick pic.







That's quite the big boy. And I've never seen a grease fitting on a chuck before, but then I've never owned a Pratt before.






Stuck the t-handle in and gave it a couple of turns. Wow. Very smooth, almost like a hydraulic dampened mechanism. Not used to this high-end stuff. Oh, and those ground surfaces on the jaws? Razor sharp. Need to be careful around these.


----------



## tmarks11

Awesome.

Make sure you read the manual.  My Bison 5C chuck has a grease nipple.... and the directions tell you to oil it. You have to modify a grease gun or buy a speciality pressurized oiler.

I am going to try using this one, and will let you all know if it works:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1JBS1Q/

I bet you the PBA is the same way.


----------



## darkzero

wrmiller19 said:


> So the PBA showed up



That's a very nice chuck, congrats! As I have said before, Pratt Burnerd is my top favorite choice, too bad I couldn't afford one at the time.


----------



## GA Gyro

Marcus...

Sorry your ways are damaged... I would bring that to Matt's attention... and as noted get a few freebees from him.
Also... it will let Matt know he needs to keep a tighter leash on the guys in the shop.

Next time I talk to Matt, I am gonna rib him about the cabinets being painted dark grey... they should be 'Precision Matthews blue'...


----------



## wrmiller

I like the blue idea!


----------



## GA Gyro

THX Bill...

My shop colors are Rustoleum Royal Blue and Almond White... both oil base, applied with a brush.  

I am gonna start a thread titled:

PM935/1340 owners questions/issues

Since some of us have purchased that combo of machines, I am thinking to make the thread a place to go and look for solutions to issues.  

Of course the thread is open to all PM owners... just thought it would be a good place for specific to model issues.  

BTW: MODS... where do I go to start a group for the same?  
THX


----------



## darkzero

Groups are not available yet but it's on the list to do.


----------



## GA Gyro

darkzero said:


> Groups are not available yet but it's on the list to do.



THX...

Figured it would be a cool group... since a lot of us have purchased the combo.

Will check back in a while.

John


----------



## wrmiller

tmarks11 said:


> Awesome.
> 
> Make sure you read the manual.  My Bison 5C chuck has a grease nipple.... and the directions tell you to oil it. You have to modify a grease gun or buy a speciality pressurized oiler.
> 
> I am going to try using this one, and will let you all know if it works:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1JBS1Q/
> 
> I bet you the PBA is the same way.



FYI, the PBA manual recommends using their lubricant only of course, but it is grease. PB160Z. Comes in a tube that fits standard grease guns. Just ordered some from Griz.


----------



## wrmiller

As of this morning, the lathe was off-loaded somewhere here in Denver (about 30 miles away). Will probably take a few days for them to notify the local delivery CO, lay out a delivery route, call and schedule a delivery date and time, and whatever else they need to do. I may see it by the end of the week. But hey, at least it's in the neighborhood!


----------



## brav65

Bill you are being incredibly patient. I am getting antsy waiting to see your usually stellar set up threads on the new lathe. Hang in there brother!


----------



## wrmiller

brav65 said:


> Bill you are being incredibly patient. I am getting antsy waiting to see your usually stellar set up threads on the new lathe. Hang in there brother!



I'm not being patient, I'm just a realist. And I realize that there isn't anything I can do except sit on my hands and say Bad Words at Roadrunner Trucking and whomever else has held this thing up. 

As for a setup thread: Because this setup involves lots of pieces, e.g., set up stand and lathe, motor change, install VFD, rewire machine, install DRO etc., that what I'm thinking is that this will take many weekends to complete. So I will take lots of pics of the progress and then when I've got the big stuff done I will then start a thread. Otherwise there could be days (weeks?) between significant updates and that's no fun at all to follow. Or maybe I'll start a little earlier like when I have the machine up on the stand and start the rewiring/VFD install. We'll see.


----------



## GA Gyro

wrmiller19 said:


> I'm not being patient, I'm just a realist. And I realize that there isn't anything I can do except sit on my hands and say Bad Words at Roadrunner Trucking and whomever else has held this thing up.
> 
> As for a setup thread: Because this setup involves lots of pieces, e.g., set up stand and lathe, motor change, install VFD, rewire machine, install DRO etc., that what I'm thinking is that this will take many weekends to complete. So I will take lots of pics of the progress and then when I've got the big stuff done I will then start a thread. Otherwise there could be days (weeks?) between significant updates and that's no fun at all to follow. Or maybe I'll start a little earlier like when I have the machine up on the stand and start the rewiring/VFD install. We'll see.



Agree with you Bill on the set up thread.  I just completed the first coat of paint on the stand... all cut out, welded, ground, etc.  When the lathe is on the stand... will start a thread and start posting.  I need to get my ducks in a row on the wiring...


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## coolidge

Take your time Bill, savor it no need to be in a rush. I see so many people rushing these days, instead why not take it slow and enjoy it.


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## brav65

coolidge said:


> Take your time Bill, savor it no need to be in a rush. I see so many people rushing these days, instead why not take it slow and enjoy it.


Excellent advice!  I spent two months setting up my mill.  I took most of it apart to learn how it worked.  I find it very relaxing.  I can spend hours messing around in the shop, with little to show for my efforts except greasy fingers.  Of course I am really new to all of this stuff.


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## GA Gyro

coolidge said:


> Take your time Bill, savor it no need to be in a rush. I see so many people rushing these days, instead why not take it slow and enjoy it.



It seems I am taking this approach... by default.  Soo many things getting in the way... so little time... 

Hope to at least have it on the stand by the weekend, and maybe cleaned up... just the elec to go. 

Decided to add a 'crane' arm to the stand... easier to describe with pictures than words... probably in a week I will have some pics.


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## wrmiller

Whoot! Just got off the phone and my lathe is scheduled to show up at my house before 3PM tomorrow. The fun will begin this weekend!


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## Ken_Shea

I know you are looking forward to tomorrow !


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## brav65

Awesome!  Looking forward to seeing you get her set up.


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## coolidge

Congrats Bill!!


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## Smudgemo

I'd suggest a new thread to kick off the delivery tomorrow.  I'm looking forward to lots of photos as this lathe is still on my short list of things to buy.

-Ryan


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## GA Gyro

wrmiller19 said:


> Whoot! Just got off the phone and my lathe is scheduled to show up at my house before 3PM tomorrow. The fun will begin this weekend!



Congrats Bill!  
You will like what you get... 

I have my stand all welded up... being painted.  Added a feature that is easier shown in a pic than described with words.


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## GA Gyro

Smudgemo said:


> I'd suggest a new thread to kick off the delivery tomorrow.  I'm looking forward to lots of photos as this lathe is still on my short list of things to buy.
> 
> -Ryan



IMO, if the capabilities and price are within your guidelines... the PM1340GT is definitely a short list choice.


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## coolidge

Today is the big day, let the countdown begin!


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## wrmiller

Well, it's finally here. Different delivery co though as the driver offered to back up into the driveway and only had to move the late about 10' or so with an electric pallet jack to get it in the garage. I and my engineer just stood there drinking coffee and watching. Too cool. 

Still tipped the driver though.

The crate had loose boards on it, one of the stand boxes suffered some damage and there are some scratches on the stand but no biggie. However, the 3-phase motor that I bought was left loose (it didn't even have a shipping label on it with my name) and sitting on top of the lathe crate. But somewhere during the trip it got launched into something solid and crushed one corner of the fan cage. I can't see if there is any damage to the motor or the fan but will try to take the fan cover off and assess. I've already sent a pic to Matt and asked if the fan and cover from the single phase will work. I couldn't see refusing the motor just so Matt can have a boat anchor sitting on his desk. I'll wait to see what he suggests.

Other than that, the lathe looks undamaged. There was no chuck on the bed, but there is a box with a picture of a chuck on it sitting on the floor of the lathe's crate. Should be the four-jaw. I will take pics tonight when I get home. I've got a nice weekend coming up so it's lathe cleaning on Saturday and Golf on Sunday. 

I'm thinking I should get it up on it's stand first so I don't have to crawl around on my hands and knees doing the motor/electrical, so that will likely be the first Big Step.


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## wrmiller

Question for those with this or similar lathes: What's the best way of rigging this for hoisting with a 2T shop hoist? I assume I will be coming in with the hoist at the headstock end as that is the heaviest but not having done this before I'm not sure where to run the lifting straps (other than inside the drive and leadscrews...)


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## coolidge

I'll let others chime in who own this lathe, but one tip in addition to the main lifting straps I use some additional ratchet straps to keep it from tilting left/right forward/back, these come in handy once you lift it as you can use the ratchet straps to ratchet it level for lowering onto the stand.


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## mksj

Bill,
See lifting, only use headstock and tailstock for balance. Now use a D ring.


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## GA Gyro

wrmiller19 said:


> Question for those with this or similar lathes: What's the best way of rigging this for hoisting with a 2T shop hoist? I assume I will be coming in with the hoist at the headstock end as that is the heaviest but not having done this before I'm not sure where to run the lifting straps (other than inside the drive and leadscrews...)



Bill,

I have not raised mine yet... however I have read a few threads on this and seen a few pics.  
The balance point is an inch or two from the headstock, under the ways... It is VERY important, when rigging the sling (preferred to use strap style support), to arrange so the strap does NOT apply pressure to the lead-screw or any of the bars/screws along the front of the way... which control the carriage.  Some folks have put a board under the ways to spread the straps, some folks ran the strap between the frame and the lead screws... Regardless, be sure not to apply pressure to the screws/bars.  
Personally, my plan is to put the main sling against the headstock under the ways, and a second strap towards the tailstock end.  That way, I have some control over the angle it hangs.  
If I get it on the stand... will take pics along the way.

Hope this helps.


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## GA Gyro

mksj said:


> Bill,
> See lifting, only use headstock and tailstock for balance. Now use a D ring.
> View attachment 97604



That is an excellent idea Mark... I had not thought of putting a strap through the spindle. That would be positive support of the heavy part, with control of the other parts.  I like the total 3 straps... lots of control!

THX for posting the pic, just at the right time!

Appreciate it!


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## tmarks11

I am not sure I would want to put abnormal stress on the spindle by loading it with a strap.  It might not damage it, but why risk it?  

The spindle and the bearings are probably one of the most critical components on the lathe, and not built as beefy as the rest.  Since the COG of the lathe is close to the headstock, that strap would end up supporting a good amount of weight.


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## wrmiller

I've started a new thread to talk about the setup of my lathe.


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