# Reversible motor runs fine one way, blow circuit breaker in reverse.



## silence dogood (Apr 30, 2021)

I have a Lathemaster 8x14 about 10 years old.  The magnetic on/off switch started chattering, then only start but would not run.  Traced the problem to a loose clamped on lug.  Replace and still had some chattering when turned on.  And just for grins tried to run it in reverse.  Blew house breaker. I don't use the reverse much but it did work before. Traced problem to a couple of contacts in the forward/ reverse switch.  Both contacts measured about 20 ohms when it should be zero.  Not good,  Before ordering anything traced the wiring and made a schematic.  The guy that wired this thing must be totally color blind and get his kicks out of staring at bowls of cooked ramen.  Example. the hot wire on the power cord is black, good.  Then it is connected to a GREEN wire, then red, then white.  The neutral on the power cord is white, good, then brown (huh).  I won't even describe the mag switch and all the circuit loops.  By the way the mag switch has no nomenclature of any sort.  So started from scratch,  Replaced both the mag switch and the forward/reverse switch with common standard mag switch and drum  switch and made the wiring simple.  Works great, except that it still blows breakers on reverse.  The motor has a start and run caps.  Can that be the problem and if so why?  I know that motor caps are really two caps in one.  Could one be shorted? They don't measure that way. Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Mark


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## rabler (Apr 30, 2021)

One thought would be to check and make sure the switch itself, or the wire from the switch to the motor is not doing something weird, like shorting to ground.  You  could test that with an ohmmeter, with the lathe unplugged from power.  At the motor, with the switch connected, both forward and reverse wires should read the same resistance to neutral (they may take a few seconds for the capacitors to charge to whatever tiny voltage your ohmeter applies before the reading settles).   Both should read infinite resistance to ground. 

Note that at least one convention I've seen is that on a reversible motor, the BLACK wire is neutral, white and red are for forward and reverse.  In that case if you hooked up neutral to white, and are switching between black and red for F/R, that could explain the problem.  I know this contradicts the home wiring standards but in DC, red is positive and black is zero/ground (as in a car battery/jumper cable).  So standards aren't universal ...


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## markba633csi (Apr 30, 2021)

Can you power the motor directly to the line bypassing the lathe switching to verify the motor itself is ok? If it runs in one direction I think the motor itself is probably not the issue- see below however
I suspect the switching is the culprit.  Does it trip the breaker even with the motor disconnected? Rabler's advice is sound.
Post some pics if you can
-Mark
We had a recent member who had the exact same problem. The culprit? One of the cap terminals was shorting to the cover such that in one direction the terminal was cold and the motor ran and in the other direction it was hot and tripped the breaker.
A variation on this would be if one of the caps had an internal short from one terminal to the metal case.


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## silence dogood (Apr 30, 2021)

Thanks guys.  I'll check again.  Here is more info that should have been there.  The motor is 3/4 hp. Start cap 40uf 250v.  Run cap 20uf  450v.  Motor draws 8.8 amps which is about right.  5 wire3 come out of the motor.  U1 and U2 should be the run coil.  W2Z2 and V2 should be the start/run caps and start coil.  And of course ground. And they seem to measure that way.  This problem happened before I replaced the mag switch and drum switch.  This is why I suspect the motor.  However, being human(I think) I'll recheck the wiring.  I do have and extra 20uf cap, so I'll try that.  Besides the caps, could the centrifugal switch work one way but not the other way?  I've worked on electronics for decades and know a little about motors, but this one problem does not show up on the net and I never have come a cross anything like it.  First chance that I get, I'll try to get some pictures and schematics to show you.  Mark


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## silence dogood (Apr 30, 2021)

Forgot to tell you  110v single phase motor.


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## silence dogood (May 1, 2021)

Spent some time checking the wiring. It's good.  Then did a resistance check, everything fine until tested the V1 lead to the drum switch.  Turns out the V1 lead coming out of the motor case is shorted to the motor ground. May have to pull the motor and take it apart.  This is not good.  Went back and read the past comments.  Mark, I hope that you are right.  Really hate to spring for a new motor.  Anyway, thanks for the help guys.  I'm done for the night and deal with it tomorrow.


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## markba633csi (May 1, 2021)

OK. Hopefully it's not a shorted motor winding, but it does happen sometimes.  Make sure to test just the windings, all caps disconnected
If the V1 line is part of the start circuit there's still a slight chance the short may be at the centrifugal switch and could be fixed
-M
There's also a last resort which is to change the connections so that the shorted end stays cold.  We can explore that if necessary, later.


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## silence dogood (May 1, 2021)

Found the problem. The wire, I know t's green.  It is NOT a ground wire. It is part of V1 and connected to the one side of the caps. It looks like that it was cut by the centrifugal switch. You can even see the extra piece of insulation at the bottom of the picture. So when the motor was running one way, the wire was neutral, not good. But not enough current, if any to cause problems.  Reverse it and now the wire is hot. Bambo, blown breaker. Now, I got to figger the best way to repair this since the wire itself has been cut half way through.  Thanks for all the comments, they have really helped.


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## RJSakowski (May 1, 2021)

A butt splice should do the trick.  

Another way is to cut the wire and slip heat shrink tubing on.  Then strip about 1/2 -3/4" of insulation.  Flare the strands iut slightly and slide one wire into contact with the other .  Compress the strands to a small diameter and solder the joint.   Slide the heat shrink over the joint and shrink the tubing. I will sometimes double up on the tubing or wrap the joint with electrical tape before sliding the tubing over the joint for added insulation.  You will lose about a 1/2" of length in the wire.


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## markba633csi (May 1, 2021)

Yay, another one bites the dust. Very similar situation to the other member's problem I mentioned earlier.
That doesn't really look green to me, more like a bluish-aqua
-Mark


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## jwmelvin (May 1, 2021)

One of those heat-shrink solder sleeves would work well for that.


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## markba633csi (May 2, 2021)

I'll leave it up to you on how to repair it,  if lots of strands are cut you'll need to do some surgery, brain salad and otherwise
-M


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## silence dogood (May 3, 2021)

Success!  Held my head just the right angle and found two screws that held the centrifugal switch.  The rotor came right out leaving me plenty of room to work with.  Used RJ's suggestion of using a butt splice, crimping it and then slide a heat shrink over it.  Real careful putting the cover back on the housing since I think the wire originally was pinched.  And after a while from vibration. it shorted.   Two things that I'm grateful.   Good thing for a three wire  with ground. Other wise a hot lathe.  Can't tell you guys how much that I appreciate the suggestions you gave.


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## Dlb21964 (May 10, 2022)

silence dogood said:


> I have a Lathemaster 8x14 about 10 years old.  The magnetic on/off switch started chattering, then only start but would not run.  Traced the problem to a loose clamped on lug.  Replace and still had some chattering when turned on.  And just for grins tried to run it in reverse.  Blew house breaker. I don't use the reverse much but it did work before. Traced problem to a couple of contacts in the forward/ reverse switch.  Both contacts measured about 20 ohms when it should be zero.  Not good,  Before ordering anything traced the wiring and made a schematic.  The guy that wired this thing must be totally color blind and get his kicks out of staring at bowls of cooked ramen.  Example. the hot wire on the power cord is black, good.  Then it is connected to a GREEN wire, then red, then white.  The neutral on the power cord is white, good, then brown (huh).  I won't even describe the mag switch and all the circuit loops.  By the way the mag switch has no nomenclature of any sort.  So started from scratch,  Replaced both the mag switch and the forward/reverse switch with common standard mag switch and drum  switch and made the wiring simple.  Works great, except that it still blows breakers on reverse.  The motor has a start and run caps.  Can that be the problem and if so why?  I know that motor caps are really two caps in one.  Could one be shorted? They don't measure that way. Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Mark


I hate to bring this back from the dead, especially as my first post…but my Lathemaster lathe is having roughly the same issue, except mine starts and runs one direction but as soon as you flip the switch in reverse it pops near the switch and trips my breaker. 
I read thru your testing process but unfortunately while I know my way around a meter, I don’t know what the motor “caps” are. I’m hoping it’s a raw wire somewhere similar to your issue, but if you or anyone else can explain in a little more detail the areas or caps ( location) to test I’d really appreciate it. I’m also going to need to check the switch too obviously- but at least I can replace that cheaply if that’s the problem. It appears to me to be more switch related since it will run beautifully one direction. 
The lathe has been solid and really doesn’t have much usage on it and I’m surprised it even has this issue.

Thanks in advance!


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## silence dogood (May 11, 2022)

Sounds like you have the same problem that I did. You may have to take apart the motor and check the wiring as you can see in the pictures earlier.  I should have but did not write a follow up. My bad, did not think something like this would come up again. The short had burnt the contacts of both the drum switch and the mag on/off switch. When I start to turn on the motor, the switch would chatter and then the motor would run fine either direction. Whoever wired the lathe must have been colored blind and previously worked in a noodle factory. Could not find any info on the mag switch. So completely rewired it with a different drum switch and mag on/off switch. She now starts and purrs like a kitten.  Give me a couple of days and I will show some pictures and a wiring schematic. Mark


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## Dlb21964 (May 11, 2022)

silence dogood said:


> Sounds like you have the same problem that I did. You may have to take apart the motor and check the wiring as you can see in the pictures earlier.  I should have but did not write a follow up. My bad, did not think something like this would come up again. The short had burnt the contacts of both the drum switch and the mag on/off switch. When I start to turn on the motor, the switch would chatter and then the motor would run fine either direction. Whoever wired the lathe must have been colored blind and previously worked in a noodle factory. Could not find any info on the mag switch. So completely rewired it with a different drum switch and mag on/off switch. She now starts and purrs like a kitten.  Give me a couple of days and I will show some pictures and a wiring schematic. Mark


Thanks so much. I really appreciate it. I’m going to pull the switch today and do a visual check on it at least. See if anything looks burnt or shorted.


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## Dlb21964 (May 11, 2022)

Switch visually looks good. Actually found the exact replacement on Amazon just in case it ends up testing bad.


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## markba633csi (May 12, 2022)

I edited this post since I had some doubts about the validity of the test.  
The best way to isolate the problem would be to (with power plug pulled) disconnect the motor wires and tape them, then plug the unit in and switch
to reverse; no breaker trip should occur which would point to the motor being at fault


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## Dlb21964 (May 12, 2022)

markba633csi said:


> A test you could perform would be to reverse the power plug after you have run it in forward but before you switch it to reverse.  If it now runs in reverse but blows in forward then that points to the problem being at/in the motor like dogoods was
> -M
> ps with today's 3-prong plugs you would need an adapter with two narrow prongs to do the test


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## markba633csi (May 12, 2022)

Be cautious buying import switches of that type- I have seen several variations of internal contact arrangements.  Most styles could be made to work but may not be a "drop in" replacement without some detective work and rearranging of wires
Check for a contact diagram when buying online


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## silence dogood (May 13, 2022)

Do you have the 9" Lathemaster? Mine is the 8x14. The on/off switch, the drum, and the wiring is different from mine. Even the wires are white not black although there are other colors. I would recommend not to do the reverse wire short test. The test may tell you what you need to know. The trouble is that there is so much current going through the switches that you may burn the switch contacts. I believe that is why the switch would chatter when you turn the lathe on even after you rectify the main problem. End up replacing both switches because some of the contacts measured over 20 ohms when close. They should measure close to zero. Marba633csi has a good point about the import switches of that type. I replaced mine with a standard drum switch. Modified it so it would fit in the original place. This switch can handle up to a three-horse motor and was much simpler to wire. As for testing the motor. Since you have already opened it up. There should be five wires coming out of the motor. Hopefully, the color code should be the same as mine. Green is ground. U1 and U2 are black and white and are the run winding. V1 and W2/Z2 are the run winding. If you take an ohmmeter to the green and the other lead to any of the four other wires, they should measure open or infinity. If one of the wires measure any kind of short to the green or the metal ground, there is your problem. Most likely, it will be V1 or W2/Z2. You will have to take the motor apart and find the open insulated wire that is causing the short. Good luck, Mark.


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## Dlb21964 (May 13, 2022)

silence dogood said:


> Do you have the 9" Lathemaster? Mine is the 8x14. The on/off switch, the drum, and the wiring is different from mine. Even the wires are white not black although there are other colors. I would recommend not to do the reverse wire short test. The test may tell you what you need to know. The trouble is that there is so much current going through the switches that you may burn the switch contacts. I believe that is why the switch would chatter when you turn the lathe on even after you rectify the main problem. End up replacing both switches because some of the contacts measured over 20 ohms when close. They should measure close to zero. Marba633csi has a good point about the import switches of that type. I replaced mine with a standard drum switch. Modified it so it would fit in the original place. This switch can handle up to a three-horse motor and was much simpler to wire. As for testing the motor. Since you have already opened it up. There should be five wires coming out of the motor. Hopefully, the color code should be the same as mine. Green is ground. U1 and U2 are black and white and are the run winding. V1 and W2/Z2 are the run winding. If you take an ohmmeter to the green and the other lead to any of the four other wires, they should measure open or infinity. If one of the wires measure any kind of short to the green or the metal ground, there is your problem. Most likely, it will be V1 or W2/Z2. You will have to take the motor apart and find the open insulated wire that is causing the short. Good luck, Mark.


Thanks for this info. My lathe is the 8 x 14, had it since about 2005. 

I went ahead and ordered a new F-R switch, simply because it’s cheap and easy to replace. I will take the motor apart when I get some time, probably over the weekend.


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## markba633csi (May 13, 2022)

Make careful notes about switch wiring when you go to replace- save many headaches


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## Dlb21964 (May 13, 2022)

markba633csi said:


> Make careful notes about switch wiring when you go to replace- save many headaches


Oh absolutely. I’ve made that mistake one too many times.


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## markba633csi (May 13, 2022)

BTW "caps" is slang for capacitors, those cylinder shaped things with two terminals or wires coming out- they come in all shapes and sizes 
and are found in many products besides motors


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## Dlb21964 (May 13, 2022)

markba633csi said:


> BTW "caps" is slang for capacitors, those cylinder shaped things with two terminals or wires coming out- they come in all shapes and sizes
> and are found in many products besides motors


I appreciate your help, and everyone else’s help with chasing down this gremlin. I’ll update the thread when I get the switch and take the motor off.


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## Dlb21964 (May 13, 2022)

silence dogood said:


> Do you have the 9" Lathemaster? Mine is the 8x14. The on/off switch, the drum, and the wiring is different from mine. Even the wires are white not black although there are other colors. I would recommend not to do the reverse wire short test. The test may tell you what you need to know. The trouble is that there is so much current going through the switches that you may burn the switch contacts. I believe that is why the switch would chatter when you turn the lathe on even after you rectify the main problem. End up replacing both switches because some of the contacts measured over 20 ohms when close. They should measure close to zero. Marba633csi has a good point about the import switches of that type. I replaced mine with a standard drum switch. Modified it so it would fit in the original place. This switch can handle up to a three-horse motor and was much simpler to wire. As for testing the motor. Since you have already opened it up. There should be five wires coming out of the motor. Hopefully, the color code should be the same as mine. Green is ground. U1 and U2 are black and white and are the run winding. V1 and W2/Z2 are the run winding. If you take an ohmmeter to the green and the other lead to any of the four other wires, they should measure open or infinity. If one of the wires measure any kind of short to the green or the metal ground, there is your problem. Most likely, it will be V1 or W2/Z2. You will have to take the motor apart and find the open insulated wire that is causing the short. Good luck, Mark.


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## silence dogood (May 13, 2022)

I got my lathe in 2009, so there must had been a change. The on/off switch and drum switch are on separate places instead of one panel like yours.  The color code to the motor seems to be the same.  Yellow with green stripe is ground. Black and white wires should be run winding. Red and blue should be start winding. The start winding is the one that flips for the reverse. Inside the motor the sorta green wire which was connected to the red or blue (can't remember which) was pinched and caused the short.  Hope this helps.


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## Dlb21964 (May 13, 2022)

silence dogood said:


> I got my lathe in 2009, so there must had been a change. The on/off switch and drum switch are on separate places instead of one panel like yours.  The color code to the motor seems to be the same.  Yellow with green stripe is ground. Black and white wires should be run winding. Red and blue should be start winding. The start winding is the one that flips for the reverse. Inside the motor the sorta green wire which was connected to the red or blue (can't remember which) was pinched and caused the short.  Hope this helps.



So I’m setting my meter on 200 ohms, holding my black probe against the green striped wire, and taking the red probe against each of the remaining 4 wires, correct?

If the wires are good, I should get “I” (infinity) on each wire? Any other reading than that means there’s a short in that wire?


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## silence dogood (May 14, 2022)

Yes. You got it. If there is a short, I have a hunch that it will most likely be the red or blue wire. Then you will have to take apart the motor. If you have not done anything like this. First make a mark across the cover and the case. That's so when you put it back together, both pieces will line up. Taking pictures will help a lot. Remove the case screws. Carefully pry apart. The centrifugal switch is the hard part. If you look inside just right, you will see two screws that hold a plastic plate called a centrifugal switch. Inside the wires are a different color. Mine were a blueish green as shown in the previous photo on comment no, 8. This will give you more room to fix the bare spot on the wire. While you are about it, look for any burnt spots and sniff for any burnt smells. Hopefully there won't be any. After repairing the wire, carefully put it back together making sure that no wires get pinched. Spin it by hand to make sure that nothing is interfering with the rotor.  Test again to make sure that there are no shorts. After this you should be good to go. Good luck my friend.


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## Dlb21964 (May 14, 2022)

silence dogood said:


> Yes. You got it. If there is a short, I have a hunch that it will most likely be the red or blue wire. Then you will have to take apart the motor. If you have not done anything like this. First make a mark across the cover and the case. That's so when you put it back together, both pieces will line up. Taking pictures will help a lot. Remove the case screws. Carefully pry apart. The centrifugal switch is the hard part. If you look inside just right, you will see two screws that hold a plastic plate called a centrifugal switch. Inside the wires are a different color. Mine were a blueish green as shown in the previous photo on comment no, 8. This will give you more room to fix the bare spot on the wire. While you are about it, look for any burnt spots and sniff for any burnt smells. Hopefully there won't be any. After repairing the wire, carefully put it back together making sure that no wires get pinched. Spin it by hand to make sure that nothing is interfering with the rotor.  Test again to make sure that there are no shorts. After this you should be good to go. Good luck my friend.


Thank you very much for all your detailed help and explanations.


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## Dlb21964 (Jun 2, 2022)

Hate to bring this to life again, thought I had the problem solved but apparently not. 
Found a loose connection on the yellow/green striped wire and was like HA, got it. Nope. 

I tested the wires as described above, I’m not getting any resistance across the motor harness leads. Motor runs like a champ in FW speed. I am still waiting on the new F/R switch so I can rule any switch issues out. 

Question…is there a way to hook the motor up directly to power to check it in FW and Reverse- bypassing any switches?


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## Dlb21964 (Jun 4, 2022)

@markba633csi   can you tell me how to check my resistance from the terminals on my electric motor?

I have a Z1 and Z2, and a U1 and U2. 

I’m still trying to track down my breaker tripping issue. Could the capacitors be a problem? To my eyes everything looks good. No chafed wires or anything.


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## markba633csi (Jun 4, 2022)

You checked all the motor wires with respect to ground with your meter? No continuity to ground noted on any of them?


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## Dlb21964 (Jun 4, 2022)

markba633csi said:


> You checked all the motor wires with respect to ground with your meter? No continuity to ground noted on any of them?


Correct. I placed my probe on the ground wire in the bottom left corner and the red probe on each of the 4 individual terminals. Also checked each wire from harness connections to terminals to make sure there were no broken wires. 

I’m starting to wonder if the magnetic on/off safety switch is the culprit.


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## markba633csi (Jun 4, 2022)

OK.  Capacitors unlikely to be the problem.  I think it might be a good idea to disconnect the motor and see if the breaker still trips
If the problem is similar to Dogoods then the motor may not show a short when stopped


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## Dlb21964 (Jun 4, 2022)

markba633csi said:


> OK.  Capacitors unlikely to be the problem.  I think it might be a good idea to disconnect the motor and see if the breaker still trips
> If the problem is similar to Dogoods then the motor may not show a short when stopped


So am I just disconnecting the feeds from the motor only, leaving the rest of the power feeds going to the start/stop switch and F/R switch hooked up?


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## markba633csi (Jun 4, 2022)

Before you do that, you might try doing the resistance tests again, but spin the motor by hand as you do it.  The short may only appear at a certain rotational position of the centrifugal switch as it brushes against the damaged wire inside


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## Dlb21964 (Jun 4, 2022)

markba633csi said:


> Before you do that, you might try doing the resistance tests again, but spin the motor by hand as you do it.  The short may only appear at a certain rotational position of the centrifugal switch as it brushes against the damaged


Duplicate


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## Dlb21964 (Jun 4, 2022)

markba633csi said:


> Before you do that, you might try doing the resistance tests again, but spin the motor by hand as you do it.  The short may only appear at a certain rotational position of the centrifugal switch as it brushes against the damaged wire inside


No issues with continuity spinning the motor by hand. However breaker does not trip when turning the F/R switch with motor disconnected. I have a good 120v coming in to switches. 

I’m wondering now if it’s a wiring issue where the wires from the motor are crossed somewhere.


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## Dlb21964 (Jun 4, 2022)

Also just for reference here are the diagrams for the switches. Since everything works except when trying to reverse the motor, maybe the reverse (L) wire is hooked up incorrectly.


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## markba633csi (Jun 4, 2022)

Didn't this machine work properly before?  Wires don't just reconnect themselves 
The problem seems to be clearly in the motor regardless- you've just proven it
I think you should open it up- what say guys?


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## Dlb21964 (Jun 4, 2022)

markba633csi said:


> Didn't this machine work properly before?  Wires don't just reconnect themselves
> The problem seems to be clearly in the motor regardless- you've just proven it
> I think you should open it up- what say guys?


I actually don’t think the reverse ever worked.  I have had this machine for years-I haven’t used it in at least 12-13 years, got into other hobbies and it sat in my shop. Memory is foggy so I can’t say 100% it didn’t work, but with how things are testing out I’m going to say it didn’t. 
Regardless the forward running part is great. 

I’ve already opened up the motor about an hour ago. No dice. Everything looks great inside. No burnt smells, no pinched or skinned wires. Very perplexing.


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## markba633csi (Jun 5, 2022)

Ah OK, now we are getting to the crux of the biscuit- you should have mentioned that before (like in your first post)
More info is always better
I guess the next step is-  I'm not sure..  Have to cogitate on it for a bit
I'm going to take another look at the motor's terminal board- something looked fishy to me
I suspect we may be dealing with a factory screwup that you never noticed

Yes, post 33 I see what looks like vertical straps across pairs of terminals- If those are indeed metal straps that's your problem
They shouldn't be there
-M


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## Dlb21964 (Jun 5, 2022)

markba633csi said:


> Ah OK, now we are getting to the crux of the biscuit- you should have mentioned that before (like in your first post)
> More info is always better
> I guess the next step is-  I'm not sure..  Have to cogitate on it for a bit
> I'm going to take another look at the motor's terminal board- something looked fishy to me
> ...


Really?? Ok interesting. 

First of all THANKS for sticking with me on this- I can’t thank you enough. 

Second, here are some more pics. I honestly ( in my limited knowledge) can’t see or find anything wrong with this motor.


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## Dlb21964 (Jun 5, 2022)

Mark- YOU ARE THE MAN!!

I removed both metal bridges and the motor is running F/R without any issues! 

Thank you so much!!!

Only question now is did both bridges need removed? I’m assuming it doesn’t matter since the motor looks to be running fine but before I put it all back together I want to make sure.


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## markba633csi (Jun 5, 2022)

Obviously a factory screwup that went unnoticed and undetected until now- My best guess
Yes both straps come off.  I thought I saw something weird about a dozen posts back but couldn't believe my eyes, so to speak
You realize you will be ruining your perfect record of never using reverse on this lathe- it could have earth-shattering consequences


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## Dlb21964 (Jun 5, 2022)

markba633csi said:


> Obviously a factory screwup that went unnoticed and undetected until now- My best guess
> Yes both straps come off
> You realize you will ruining your perfect record of never using reverse on this lathe- it could have earth-shattering consequences


LOL. 

Well….after bugging everyone and being persistent- I learned a LOT. It was more my OCD and knowing it had to be something simple. 

Thanks again for all your help.


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## markba633csi (Jun 5, 2022)

Did you buy this lathe new?  Then it certainly was a factory mistake.  If one lives long enough one will see just about everything at least once
With the straps there were effectively only two wires to the motor.  It takes four to reverse an ac motor (sometimes 3 is enough on 240 volts)


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## Dlb21964 (Jun 5, 2022)

markba633csi said:


> Did you buy this lathe new?  Then it certainly was a factory mistake.  If one lives long enough one will see just about everything at least once
> With the straps there were effectively only two wires to the motor.  It takes four to reverse an ac motor (sometimes 3 is enough on 240 volts)


Yes sir it was new. But also my first lathe. Didn’t know much about any of it. 

I repowdercoated it, and she’s ready to go.


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## silence dogood (Jun 5, 2022)

Would have replied earlier, but just got back showing my grandson on how to operate a wood lathe. As soon as I saw the picture with the two jumpers, knew something was wrong. Just to make sure, went back and checked on my lathe. No jumpers, weird that yours did. Kudos to you Mark for catching it.


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## markba633csi (Jun 5, 2022)

Thanks Dog
Nice job on the powdercoating, I like it
I wanted to buy one of those machines badly when they first came out
I think they were built to a higher standard than a lot of other imports


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