# Adjustable Blade Reamers Set



## Swerdk (Nov 11, 2015)

Anybody have input on quality of these.  Enco sells set imported- chuck /straight flute.  $100

Are they worth it or should i just stick with regular chucking reamer set? 




I just make hobby engines and really could use some tighter tolerances


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ulma Doctor (Nov 11, 2015)

i don't have any experience with the Enco adjustables,
but i do have a large array of both adjustable and chucking reamers.
i use the adjustable ones mainly in the field, to cut down on the number of reamers i need to take- the adjustables are nice for that.
but you give up a little convenience in the process, you'll need to adjust for every different bore .
you may wish to give up a little ease of use for having just a few adjustables to cover a large range of bore sizes, if you are not doing a lot reaming

i use the chucking reamers mostly in the shop, usually under powered application.
very convenient and accurate, but you will need a large number of them if you do a lot of different sized bores.

i wish the happiest of machining to you!


----------



## Kernbigo (Nov 11, 2015)

don't buy the straight ,buy the spiral the straight chatter


----------



## Kernbigo (Nov 11, 2015)

don't buy the straight ,buy the spiral the straight chatter


----------



## 4GSR (Nov 11, 2015)

Kernbigo said:


> don't buy the straight ,buy the spiral the straight chatter



I've never had any problems with a straight bladed reamer chattering.  I've used lots over the years, too!

Don't get me wrong, I do like the spiral fluted one's too.  Cost and availability is an issue at times too.


----------



## randyjaco (Nov 11, 2015)

I have the straight ones from Enco. They work fine for me.
Randy


----------



## 4GSR (Nov 11, 2015)

I like the adjustable blade reamers for cleaning out holes and when assembling things where a shaft may be having troubles aligning itself up with a bushing.  Especially with some of the mis-matched hole boring jobs I've done in the past.


----------



## Uglydog (Nov 11, 2015)

I've got a growing collection of used ones. They end up being a mishmash of sizes.
However, also far cheaper than purchasing new. 
There are lots of sizes. Adjustable covers the spectrum. Which is handy.
I prefer the simplicity of the chucking reamers. 

Most importantly:
Drill the hole as absolutely close to size as you are able without being oversized. 
Consider getting fractional, letter, number drills. Possibly metric as well...
Run the correct speeds, with lots of cutting fluid/oil.
And don't run them backward in the hole.
Store them carefully. Protect the edges.

Daryl
MN


----------



## 4GSR (Nov 11, 2015)

Uglydog said:


> Most importantly:
> Drill the hole as absolutely close to size as you are able without being oversized.
> Consider getting fractional, letter, number drills. Possibly metric as well...
> Run the correct speeds, with lots of cutting fluid/oil.
> ...



I agree 100% with Daryl


----------



## Swerdk (Nov 11, 2015)

Thank you guys I appreciate it.  Today I found out first hand that a 1/2 in drill bit does not drill 1/2 inch.  Grrrrrr.  Hence the need for reamers.   I am having a real hard time figuring out proper drill speed on a lathe.  I see milling speeds but get confused.  I.e. 1/2 inch has bit into 1" brass. And 5/16 drill bit into 1210 steel. - what is the drill speeds -- throw me another bone


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## royesses (Nov 12, 2015)

I too have the straight Enco reamers. They are not the best quality, but they do the job. I used to use a high quality set for rebuilding diesel starters. The bushings used to come under sized and required reaming. Check the resources forum for Enco coupons if you decide to purchase them.


----------



## Uglydog (Nov 12, 2015)

Swerdk,
Do you know how to hand sharpen twist drills.
Sometimes drills, especially lower priced ones, need to be resharpened in order to get them to drill to size.
Does this make sense?
Do you have a drill gage?
If not, a posting here at HM asking if anyone has an extra for sale might be worthwhile.
I only have one, as I sent my extra to a HM member about a year ago.  
Hand sharpening drills is a skill worth learning. You may already have it.

Daryl
MN


----------



## Swerdk (Nov 12, 2015)

Funny- i put it on my christmas list a couple of weeks ago- lets see what the wifey does


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uglydog (Nov 12, 2015)

They come in a number of different formats.
All work. It seems to me that some are easier to use that others. 
I hope you were specific and requested the one attached by a string to a Cincinnati Tool and Cutter grinder! 

Daryl
MN


----------



## mattthemuppet2 (Nov 12, 2015)

and I still use it and appreciate it frequently Darryl!


----------



## tertiaryjim (Nov 14, 2015)

I learned to hand sharpen bits at age 15 and continued to improve my technique over the next 40 years. 
If the grind properly centers the flutes you can drill a tad undersized, 0.005" to 0.010", and the use the final drill size like a reamer.
Low speed and high feed.
With quality bits in good condition, superior finish and size control can be obtained.
Bits with worn or chipped flutes won't work and this technique can be hard on bits.
Be careful as the bits can try to auger in. Don't want much backlash in the tailstock and the lock could be used for drag.
Remove the bit while it's still rotating.
Still not as good as reaming but have sometimes been very surprised how nice the holes can be.
Even perfectly sharpened, drills may walk a bit so the parts to be pinned should be drilled in position.
Practice parts would prove the obtained size and quality for you to judge.
Still, a reamer is best.


----------



## Charles Spencer (Nov 14, 2015)

Swerdk said:


> I am having a real hard time figuring out proper drill speed on a lathe.  I see milling speeds but get confused.  I.e. 1/2 inch has bit into 1" brass. And 5/16 drill bit into 1210 steel. - what is the drill speeds -- throw me another bone



This is from Irwin:

http://www.irwin.com/uploads/documents/11_Decimal_Equivalents_Guide.pdf


----------



## Swerdk (Nov 14, 2015)

Thank you Charles. That proved very useful


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## george wilson (Nov 15, 2015)

Drills can often be warped. They will leave spiral scratches in the holes they drill or "ream". I recommend only the use of reamers for reaming for that reason. If you are lucky enough to have truly STRAIGHT drills,you may get away with using them for reaming. But,I think you will still not get the smoothness of a truly reamed hole.

I have used the Enco adjustable reamer set,and they did work fine for me. I only use them for large size holes over 1",for which I might not have non adjustable reamers.

Strangely enough,the last time I used a large one,it was to ream the larger size wooden tubes of BAG PIPES that a friend owns! The reamers worked fine for that.


----------



## chips&more (Nov 15, 2015)

Kernbigo said:


> don't buy the straight ,buy the spiral the straight chatter


If it’s a decent quality straight flute reamer you will notice that the flutes are not equally spaced about their circumference. For this reason it helps reduce or eliminate chatter. I do not have any chatter problems with reaming. When shopping for straight flute reamers, I would look for this feature…Good Luck, Dave.


----------



## Uglydog (Nov 15, 2015)

Swerdk,
The above link is great!
Did you get clarity on speeds and feeds? Clarity is a different thing.
Drills, Reamers, End Mills etc. 
Not difficult. But, I clearly remember a whirl of confusion for a long time about how this worked.
Please advise!

Daryl
MN


----------

