# 1952-53 10



## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 15, 2010)

Lets try this again 
This is my new South Bend 10" Tool Room Lathe (1952-53)
Serial No. 4236RKL11
Model No. CL8187A
4ft. Bed 
Came with a 3phase 3/4 hp motor but i am swithching it to single phase 1hp

This is what it looked like the day i brought it home! Since it was produced in 1952-53 it appears to have been painted about 3-4 times... the last being the pale green, which obviously didnt hold up too welll! My plan is to tear the lathe down section by section and completely strip it and restore the lathe and make it shine again. wish me luck!


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## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 15, 2010)

The first thing I did when i got the lathe home was to break it down into its major assemblies. I am starting my restoration from the ground up... Just a side note: this is my first lathe restoration so i dont know how many posts i will have that will be a "professional" "how to" because this is my first time.. but at least i can show you my progress and hopefully if there are any questions on anything i did i can show you more pics or answer with more info!

So here is the progression of the base... first pics show what it looked like when i got it home! you can see the layers of paint, grease and oils. After removing the doors, countershaft assembly and motor the entire base was stripped inside and out. I use CitruStrip to remove all the paint, filler and grease. It is my new favorite product!!! purchased at Home Depot. 

The inside of the base was then painted with 3 coats of Sherwin Williams Industrial enamel (Iron Ore gray)... next i moved on to the outside of the base. The outside was also stripped with the CitrusStrip down to the bare metal.

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## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 15, 2010)

After the outside was stripped i then apllied a coat of filler to smooth out the casting and grinder marks(pic 1). I used MetalGlaze (by Evercoat). the goal wasnt to make the panels smooth and straight like you would see on a hot rod! just to even everything out and remove the rough texture of the castings. so far so good! 

After the filler was applied and sanded it came time for 3 coats of paint (Iron Ore Gray from SW). I did use a brush to apply the paint as i dont have the room to spray anything! So brushing is the most practical for me.... So after 3 coats of paint it started to look really good but i was bothered by the brush marks in the finish (pic 2and 3). I can be "anal" when it comes to things like that! so I decided to wet sand the entire base to remove the brush marks and smooth out the paint. i wasnt looking for a smooth, perfect finish like on a car so i decided to then apply a coat of paint with an Ultra Smooth Foam Roller... yes, i used a roller! typically i would not use a roller on things like this but it gave me the look i was going for!!! I ended up with a "slight orange peel" finish. It really evened out the base and it almost has a factory appearance. (pic 3 is a closeup of the final roller coat and you can see the subtle "orange peal effect). 

later you will see a better overall pic of the base (with no brush marks! )


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## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 15, 2010)

On to the Counter Shaft Assembly.... 
 So after the base was finished and the paint cures... i broke down the CS assembly (pic1-2)! I know they recommend leaving the pullies on the shaft because of the taper pin... but if you have to change the bearings then it has to come appart! since i have the entire lathe broken down in pieces I decided that i was going to replace the bearings now, rather than have one fail and have to do it again later 
One of my bearings had a slight "gritty" feeling so i couldnt just ignore it! 

Anyways, the CS was broken down and the paint/ grease was removed (pic 3-4). All the pulleys were removed and cleaned as well (pic5-6). Ready for finishing.


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## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 15, 2010)

The next Pics show you some of the CounterShaft Assembly parts after they have been painted (pic1)... this picture also shows you the most accurate color of the paint (Iron Ore Gray from SW). it is a couple shades lighter than black...

At the same time as the CS parts are drying i began to strip the old finishes on the Belt Tensioner parts (pic2). In this picture you can see most of the parts before they were stripped. and refinished.


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## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 15, 2010)

This past week end i got the Underdrive (Counter Shaft) back together! (pic 1-3)
 My friend that i purchased the lathe from helped me press the bearings back on the shaft and we made a new taper pin to replace the old one on the large pulley. We ended up just drilling a new (larger) hole through the pulley and shaft (together) and then used a tapered reamer and then installed a new taper pin. 

Oh yay... i also found a new motor on craigslist to replace the old 3 phase 3/4hp motor that was on the lathe when i purchased it. the new motor is single phase 1hp and i purchased it for $35.00 on CL. It's a different shade of gray but i am not going to worry about that!! but believe me i thought about repainting it!!! LOL! ;D


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## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 15, 2010)

After reinstalling the Underdrive components the base is nearly complete! 
I found the easiest way to reinstall the assembly was through the bottom of the base (base laying on its back). i just used wood blocks to shim the assembly in position then drove the CS pins through the base. I also found it easier if i removed the motor to reinstall the underdrive then once eveything was in place and all the set screws were tight mounted the motor.

All i have left on the base is to complete the doors!


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## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 15, 2010)

Here are the close ups of the Tensioner Parts i finished this past weekend as well....
every nut, bolt and fastener was clean and polished... i typically would use the CitrusStrip to remove all the old paint and grease, then use a steel or brass wire wheel on my dremel to polish everything. they handle on the tensioner i ended up chucking it up in my drillpress and sanding it up to 400 grit.... i had to get creative since i dont have another lathe to finish parts!! (you need a lathe to fix a lathe sometimes  ). 

I decided I am going to go with a brushed finish on parts like the handles instead of the Polished/ Mirror finish.


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## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 15, 2010)

*Re: 1952-53 10" Tool Room Restoration*

Jim B: 
sounds like we are using the same rollers! they work really well! the drill press looks really great!

I will be working on the legs this weekend and i will post the results probably on monday!


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## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 18, 2010)

Update on progress this past week and weekend!

First off are the doors... i managed to strip and refinish all the doors for the base! so now the base is completed and i can move on 
I have attached images of the doors before and after they were stripped and cleaned down to bare metal.


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## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 18, 2010)

The base is now complete!! 
To finish off the base the doors were finished with 3 coats of paint front and back. All the hardware was refinished, except the bolts that hold the side doors... i replace them since the original bolts had been chewed up pretty badly! The star knob on the front door was also refinished. I used my Dremel and sanded it smooth removing all the old grinder and casting marks. It also got a brushed finish to match the other hardware and handles. 

I know i kinda glazed over this alittle ... if there are any questions please let me know... my processes usually remain the same as far a refinishing


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## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 18, 2010)

The worst part about this past weekend was that it took me 3 days to strip the Bed and Ways!! :-\
I know there are probably easier ways to strip the bed but i am just working with the tools i have!
Typical to evey Bed out there it was covered in grease, oil , chips, and 4 coats of old paint! I stripped the entire thing using the CitrusStrip, which usually i can do in 1 or 2 coats but this thing took 3-4 in some spots! I still have to go back over the entire thing and scrub it with metal cleaner then the plan is to add some filler and smooth the casting and then paint! 

I dont know if i ever want to do this part again! But it will be worth it in the end!


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## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 25, 2010)

So this past weekend i started to paint the bed so as the paint dried i got some other things accomplished! 
One of those things was the Chip Tray.... Originally i had stripped all the paint and grease on both sides and was going to paint it, then i decided i didnt want to paint the top side of the tray but i couldnt figure out how to remove the E-Coat (black finish)! So i ended up having the entire Chip Tray sandblasted... so much for the time stripping all the paint 

I think it turned out really well! After having it sandblasted i sanded the profile off the surfaces on the top because i didnt want the texture left from the blasting... then i took one of those grinding discs meant to remove paint and rust (red fiber disc) and went over the top and sides to give the tray a more polished look. I figure that if i ever do get any small rust spots it will be easy to just hit it with the disc again. my plan is to spray the bare metal with a "top saver" to prevent rust... same as i do with all my tools in the shop that have cast iron tops. 

The fourth pic is the final results... i couldnt resist mocking it up to see what it will look like! i still need to finish painting the bed to get it all bolted together.


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## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 25, 2010)

As the paint dried on the bed and the chip tray i tore into the QCGB. attached are the pictures of what it looked like before i started....
i will follow this post with the results of the cleaning!


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## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 25, 2010)

here are the results of cleaning the gear box... 
i removed all the gears, stripped the paint, and cleaned the casting preparing it for paint. you may notice the JB Weld where the rivets hold the brass plate on... i managed to remove 3 of the 4 rivets but the 4th one broke off and it is impossible to drill out! so i am just going to move the plate down slightly and redrill the holes... 

The last picture shows all the gear box parts ready for reasembly or ready for paint.


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## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 25, 2010)

*Re: 1952-53 10" Tool Room Restoration*

alot of elbow grease makes the parts shine!! 
all the shafts are good and tight, there really isnt any sign of significant wear... i dont see a need to refurb or adjust them at this point! the good news is when i purchased the lathe and brought it home... it was full of oil! i know alot of times you find lathes that have been dry for a while or never oiled. this one had oil dripping out as i removed parts, so i know that it was well lubed so there is no scoring or anything like that! yay! 

i have looked into replacing all the bearings even the needle bearings in the tumblers.... just because i have everything apart and it would be easier to do now, plus i like new shiny parts (less i have to clean) ! But after cleaning everything up i dont think i am going to at this moment. i think i have found a source for all the bearings i may need if i decide to replace them


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## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 25, 2010)

*Re: 1952-53 10" Tool Room Restoration*

One thing i wish i had was a shopping list for all the QCGB Felts and Oils wicks to rebuild mine... i have found alot of posts on the web and forums discussing it but there is no real agreement on what you need! 
I typically order from McMaster so part numbers would be great!
i Know i need:
F1 felt 1/8" thick (keyways)
What size should i use for the round wicks? F1 1/8" round?
some say F10 for the keyways?

any help would be appreciated! thanks!


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## Cfurnitureguy (Oct 25, 2010)

*Re: 1952-53 10" Tool Room Restoration*

yeah i guess i will just order a bunch of felts and cut to fit! probably the best approach for me!
i would rather do that than clean the originals anyways... some were missing anyways


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## Cfurnitureguy (Nov 4, 2010)

I have been out of town for work so progress has slowed down the past week... but i finally got the bed painted!! 
I started out stripping and cleaning the entire bed down to bare metal. then a coat of filler to smooth out the casting. 3 coats of iron ore gray paint on the outside and a slightly lighter color between the ways. 
in the pics its hard to see the contrast so i have attached an image that shows the iron ore gray on the right and the custom color i made on the left as a reference. 

For the lighter color i purchased a can of the Rustoleum "aluminum " color paint and mixed it with the Iron Ore Gray i used on the entire lathe. The result is a lighter color and also adds a slight metallic appearance... its hard to see in the photos but the color looks really good! i will try to get better images later!


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## Cfurnitureguy (Nov 8, 2010)

QCGB COMPLETED! FOR NOW 
I managed to finish up the QCGB this past weekend. It took me about 4 hours to get everything reinstalled. that was taking my time and making new felts for all the oil passages and wicks. After driving in the last pin i stood up from my bench and i was finished!!! OH WAIT! i forgot to put the thread screw bearing back in !! After a few curse words i managed to get the christmas tree gears off the shaft far enough to press the bearing back in and then reinstall the gears without having to take the entire thing appart again... so make it 4.5 hrs! 

anyways, i got the gear box finished and hung back on the bed and everything turns as it should.I did manage to scar up the paint with the tumbler already!! i am not sure if i am going to leave it like that of repaint it and cover it with something (plastic film/metal)? I am going to order a new brass plate from JKull to replace the old one. and i have to get new oilers for the top of GB. Other than that everything runs smooth and quiet!! definitely functions better now than it did when i bought the lathe! The tumblers slide across the shaft with no effort whats so ever!! Enjoy!


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## Cfurnitureguy (Nov 8, 2010)

Here are a few pics of the overall lathe progress so far.. .. Also attached is a better image of the lighter "metallic" gray color i created for between the bed ways (i posted earlier).


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## Cfurnitureguy (Nov 18, 2010)

Thanks to JKull!!! 
Last night i mounted the new brass plate on my QCGB. I ordered 3 new plates (gearbox, lube chart and bearing adjustment chart) from JKull and they great! i cant wait to get the other 2 mounted but i have to finish restoring the headstock first. These plates are the icing on the cake 
thanks agian JKull!!! great products!!!


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## aread (Dec 2, 2010)

*Re: 1952-53 10" Tool Room Restoration*

Really great job!!!


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## HSS (Dec 4, 2010)

*Re: 1952-53 10" Tool Room Restoration*

Beautiful job of restoring. Who is JKull that you got your plates from. I would like to have new plates for my single tumbler 13.
Good job restoring and recounting.

Pat


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## HMF (Dec 4, 2010)

*Re: 1952-53 10" Tool Room Restoration*

JKull is Jim Kull, and he can be reached through PM magazine- wish I had his email address for you, but I dont.

Check out this thread in our South Bend forum:

http://hobby-machinist.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=94.0;attach=873

It shows how Jim does it!


Enjoy!


Nelson


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## Cfurnitureguy (Dec 6, 2010)

*Re: 1952-53 10" Tool Room Restoration*

thanks for the comments everyone!! 

HSS: Jim's email address is: jimkull@consolidated.net 

the link that Nelson posted is a restoration... i purchased new plates from him (just an FYI)... 


I havent been able to get much work done on my lathe lately because of the weather and the holidays... but i should have some updates soon!!


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## Cfurnitureguy (Dec 15, 2010)

Here are a few pics of the headstock before and during the tear down. i followed the tear down procedure and had no issuse. currently the parts are all stripped to bare metal and ready to be repainted but i dont have any photos of them yet... as soon as i get them i will post the progress!


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## Cfurnitureguy (Dec 15, 2010)

here is an update of the progress i have made on the headstock.... i forgot to take a pic of the casting after it was stripped and before i painted it! but you can see the before and after in the pics below. 

The headstock casting was broken down, cleaned and stripped and then painted. 

I purchased new git cups and capillary oilers from Ted so those will be installed when i get the spindle finished. 

I also had to make a new brass tube of the oil passage, the original one was pressed down in the hole and i couldnt get it out without destroying it... so i just whipped up a new one.


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## Cfurnitureguy (Dec 15, 2010)

i also finished up the Reverse Gear Assembly.... 
For the Headstock Assembly i tried the much talked about carb cleaner method for the first time and i love it! I got a 5 gallon bucket full of carb cleaner and just drop the parts in and 1-2 days later presto clean parts! Much better than degreasing, stripping the paint, scrubing and repainting!

the pics below show the before and after of the entire assembly. i also replaced the wicks in the gears before reassembly.


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## Cfurnitureguy (Dec 15, 2010)

here are the headstock covers.... i used the same carb cleaner method to strip them down. the only other thing i did to them was to wipe them down with a scouring pad and mineral spirits. that carb cleaner does a really good job! 

also you will notice i got a replacement bull gear cover from Ted to replace my broken one. 

now i just need to get them painted!


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