# Cerakote my gearbox and cover to match.



## Ken226 (Dec 13, 2021)

I have an 8 year old pint of Cerakote in a not-popular color (cobalt)  that's been getting chunky.   

The castings in these import lathes  are pretty bad when it comes to flatness, squareness, etc.  I've been bulling them a few at a time, stripping the epoxy paint, milling them square and flat, then cerakoting and reinstalling them.

Today I did the the gearbox and cover,  to match the control panel, headstock cover, gear change knobs and headstock knobs/levers.   I've been mixing the cerakote with acetone and straining the chunks out, but it's been working.

I know, totally unnecessary cosmetic work. But I've been short on projects lately.


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## Ken226 (Dec 16, 2021)

I've been off for 2 weeks burning some use-or-lose vacation time.   With no projects to do,  boredom has been kicking in.  

I beadblasted and cerakoted my handwheels today.     

I always hated those cheesy little foil tags that had the index mark.  I tore them off and engraved the marks.





Unfortunately the Tag rivets on the cross slide wheel weren't centered.  I had to choose between centering my engraved mark on true center,  or centered between the rivers.   I opted for true center,  which makes it look a little off compared to the rivets.


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## Navy Chief (Dec 19, 2021)

May be totally unnecessary but I think they look great!

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


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## Ken226 (Dec 21, 2021)

This morning I went out and did the powerfeed gearbox,  half nut lever, apron power lever/hanger and the leascrew/feed-rod bearing block. 

The carriage power lever hanger and lead screw bearing block were pretty roughly cast.   It took a bit of work to mill everything flat and square.






The rectangular depression I milled in the right facing face of the hanger was just to get rid of pits in the casting.  I tried to make it look like it's supposed to be there.





I tried to follow the contour of the radius in the bearing block with multiple stepped passes from a 1/2" ball mill.  It worked, but the transitions between passes are visible.





Im out of that old bottle of cobalt cerakote.  I thinned the chunkiness out with acetone, and it sprayed on nicely.  2-1/2 hours @ 250f and it seems just as hard as new cerakote.   We shall see, how it holds up with time.


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## rabler (Dec 21, 2021)

Any advice on getting started doing cerakote?


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## Ken226 (Dec 21, 2021)

rabler said:


> Any advice on getting started doing cerakote?



Sure!  It's pretty easy.  Like painting,  the results are proportional to the prep work.

At a minimum,  you'll need clean, dry compressed air with a pressure regulator,  an airbrush,  an oven and a blast cabinet, gloves and a respirator.

You must have clean, dry, blasted surface for proper adhesion/durability of Cerakote.   I use the 90 mesh garnet media that comes in 5 gallon buckets from tractor supply.

After blasting the part with 90 mesh garnet,  I wipe it down thoroughly with mineral spirits, and let it dry.

Mix the cerakote and catalyst at the ratio recommended in the manual,  pour it through a strainer, just to make sure there no debris got in,  then spray it onto the part with your airbrush.  It doesn't take much, just enough to fully cover the part.  A second light coat if your worried about coverage.

A pint seems to last me several years.  A 32cc airbrush bottle will coat an entire rifle.

   32:1 cerakote/ catalyst ratio gives a matte finish,  24:1 satin and 16:1 semi gloss.


For the oven, most guys buy a used 2nd had kitchen oven to put in the shop, since cerakote fumes would suck in the house.

I hang the parts in the oven with hooks made from old coat hangers. 250f for 2 and a half hours.

I used to cerakote lots of rifles,  so a kitchen type oven wasn't big enough to hang barrelled receivers in.  I built my oven from a propane cabinet smoker, with 5000 watt dryer heating element, a pid/thermocouple temp and time controller.


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## Ken226 (Dec 21, 2021)

Also,

I've used dozens of airbrushes.  From 10$ harbor freight up to hundreds for Devilbiss, Pasgt, etc.   

By far, my favorites are these:









						3/4 Oz. Quick-Change Airbrush Kit, 7 Piece
					

Amazing deals on this 7Pc 3/4 Oz Quick-Change Airbrush Kit at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




					www.harborfreight.com
				




 Cleanup a breeze because you can just chuck the cup in the garbage!  No cerakote ever touches the gun, so it'll last indefinitely!  
     If you just feel like cleaning and re-using them,  you can!  Be warned,  they'll only hold up to acetone for about an hour before the plastic cup melts.
  And they spray awesome!  Shockingly good for the price.  I by about 5 at a time when I go to harbor freight.



Editing to add:  I almost forgot to mention,  for mixing the cerakote and catalyst in the correct ratio,  I like to buy bags of cheap plastic syringes from the local drug store.   

I always wonder what the old ladies in the drug store are thinking when I pick up a bag!  They're graduated in CC's, and a good size for the little airbrush cups.


When you buy cerakote,  it comes with the catalyst.

Use an acid/vapor rated respirator.  Cerakote has some bad stuff in it!

3M 6503QL Rugged Comfort Quick Latch Half Facepiece Reusable Respirator, Large & 3M Organic Vapor/Acid Gas Cartridge/Filter 60923, P100 Respiratory Protection (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CSMFSDG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_GH9HSXP97J6WB04X2Z16


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## Magnett (Dec 22, 2021)

Ken226 said:


> Sure!  It's pretty easy.  Like painting,  the results are proportional to the prep work.
> 
> At a minimum,  you'll need clean, dry compressed air with a pressure regulator,  an airbrush,  an oven and a blast cabinet, gloves and a respirator.
> 
> ...


Ken,
Will the 90 mesh garnet media work on picatinny rails or is it too abrasive?  Would you use a different temp to cure cerakote on aluminum than what you would use on steel?

Mike


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## Ken226 (Dec 22, 2021)

Magnett said:


> Ken,
> Will the 90 mesh garnet media work on picatinny rails or is it too abrasive?  Would you use a different temp to cure cerakote on aluminum than what you would use on steel?
> 
> Mike



For anodized aluminum,  I'd skip blasting altogether.   Unless it's that glossy type of anodizing,  like on maglight.  

For mil-spec hard anodizing, like on lower receivers. It doesn't need blasted,  just cleaned.


For bare aluminum, the garnet will still work fine if you reduce the air pressure.  I've used in with good results blasting at 60psi.   It leaves a surface texture similar to aluminum oxide.  

I've went as low as about 30psi on anodized parts when I wanted to remove paint and keep the anodizing.  

 I've also used the 100 mesh crushed glass from tractor supply.  It's not as aggressive as garnet, but doesn't last as long and produces more dust. It works fine though.

120 aluminum oxide would be best,  but it's harder to find and more expensive. 

  I've found that the 90 mesh garnet will work for pretty much anything, if you adjust the pressure for the material.  Grab a scrap of similar material,  blast it and adjust untill you have the results you want.


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## woodchucker (Dec 22, 2021)

Ken226 said:


> Also,
> 
> I've used dozens of airbrushes.  From 10$ harbor freight up to hundreds for Devilbiss, Pasgt, etc.
> 
> ...


help me out here.. syringes? with or with out needles. I can use some with those thick needles I use them for gluing, and other non piercing things... oiling ..

what do they look like, what are they called?


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## Ken226 (Dec 22, 2021)

woodchucker said:


> help me out here.. syringes? with or with out needles. I can use some with those thick needles I use them for gluing, and other non piercing things... oiling ..
> 
> what do they look like, what are they called?



They didn't come with needles.  Looked just like these though.   


Care Touch 10ml Syringe with Luer Slip Tip - 100 Sterile Syringes – No Needle Great for Dispensing Oral Medicine and Home Care https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JJYDFHM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VSASWGY9CHD4PKH0NSST


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## woodchucker (Dec 22, 2021)

Thanks.


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## Ken226 (Dec 22, 2021)

Magnett said:


> Ken,
> Will the 90 mesh garnet media work on picatinny rails or is it too abrasive?  Would you use a different temp to cure cerakote on aluminum than what you would use on steel?
> 
> Mike



Sorry, forgot to answer your other question.

Use the same temp on aluminum as with steel. 250f for 2-1/2 hours.

Cerakote makes an air-cure version that is good for plastics and anything you don't want to bake.  Not quite as durable as the bake on stuff, but still pretty good.  

 I've used it on rifle scopes before.


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## Magnett (Dec 22, 2021)

Ken226 said:


> Sorry, forgot to answer your other question.
> 
> Use the same temp on aluminum as with steel. 250f for 2-1/2 hours.
> 
> ...


Ken,  thank you for taking the time to reply.  I appreciate it.  Merry Christmas!


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## FOMOGO (Dec 22, 2021)

For syringe, try farm & ranch stores. May be bigger than human size, but more readily available. Mike


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## Ken226 (Dec 22, 2021)

FOMOGO said:


> For syringe, try farm & ranch stores. May be bigger than human size, but more readily available. Mike



Bigger would be better.  It takes 3 fills of my 10cc syringes to fill my air brush cup.   A 30cc syringe would be perfect.    

30cc of Cerakote and 2cc of catalyst gets me the perfect satin color with colors like tungsten, burnt bronze and cobalt.


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## rabler (Dec 23, 2021)

Having horses, this is my goto source for large syringes.  They stock several different brands with different sizes.








						Monoject Luer Slip Syringes, Boxes - Jeffers Pet | Pet Supplies, Horse Supplies, Farm Supplies & Pharmacy
					

Monoject Luer Slip Syringes are disposable with easy-to-read graduations. NOTE: These are the syringes only! Boxes.




					www.jefferspet.com


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