# Atlas 10F lathe?  What have I purchased?!!



## Atlas2start (Jun 3, 2021)

Today I purchased what I believe is an Atlas 10F model lathe.  It has the QC gearbox, but I don't think it is original to this lathe.  I don't even know if it works with this lathe.  The part numbers that I found seem to match up to an Atlas 10F, but there is no badging anywhere that I have found so far.  No serial number plates on either end of the bed.  I do not believe that the chuck is an Atlas either.  On a positive note, all the gears look good...so far.  Also, the previous owner spray painted over everything.  In short, it needs work.  I paid $500 for this.  Even in the state that it is in, I think I got a deal.   What can you guys tell me about this mess?

Thankyou

Fred


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## jwmay (Jun 3, 2021)

Yep it's an Atlas. But as for the specifics related to what you've got there, I believe someone will be along shortly who can enlighten you.  I will say that oven cleaner is a good paint remover.  You do have some to remove.


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## rwm (Jun 3, 2021)

I have never seen the back of a chuck painted!


Robert


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## markba633csi (Jun 3, 2021)

You will have to see if you can install the gearbox and leadscrew as it is, it may not fit up but you have a lathe now so hopefully it can make parts for itself
Certainly not an Atlas gearbox but looks like a good one
-Mark


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## pdentrem (Jun 3, 2021)

The box could be correct! Not Atlas but aftermarket accessory available back in the day.
Check the link.
 Pierre





						Western Aircraft Tool Co. Lathe Gearbox. New-All Screwcutting Gearbox. O'Brian screwcutting gearbox
					

Western Aircraft Tool Co.



					www.lathes.co.uk


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## Atlas2start (Jun 4, 2021)

pdentrem said:


> The box could be correct! Not Atlas but aftermarket accessory available back in the day.
> Check the link.
> Pierre
> 
> ...


Wow!  That certainly looks like the box that came with the lathe.  Thanks for the link


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## kcoffield (Jun 4, 2021)

Atlas2start said:


> It has the QC gearbox, but I don't think it is original to this lathe


I have the same QCGB. 









						New Caretaker of Two 12” Craftsman Lathes
					

Hi all, first post here. I’m the new caretaker of two 12” Craftsman lathes, one with a 42” bed and the other 54”. Though they recently came into my possession they are well known to me. The 42 is model 101.07403 number SN 16014 and the 54 is model 101.07403 SN 22500. The only place I’ve found...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




It was an aftermarket offering marketed under New-All, O'Brien, and several others.




I have some additional links and info if you need them.

Best,
Kelly


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## vtcnc (Jun 8, 2021)

Looks like the spindle taper needs some close inspection and care,

Make sure you clear the spray paint from the apron ball oilers,

Hard to tell until you set it up but the half nuts look chewed up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bill70j (Jun 8, 2021)

Fred:

I think you got a good deal, assuming you can get it cleaned up and back together, to include fitting the QCGB,  without spending much money. This also assumes you're building it for your use and you're not planning on flipping it.

Plus, If you get into it and find it is going to cost you a lot, you can sell it for parts (in particular the QCGB) and recoup your investment.

A couple of observations:

Agree with Bryon that the spindle bore looks suspicious.  Take a close look - and if that bit of embedded metal can be ground down you can probably then hand ream the bore to like-new.  If not, that could be a problem
The chuck might be an Atlas.  That bit of script looks like it may say "atlas."  Even if it is, you may need to grind the jaws in place based on its age
The front and back of the apron look all original, including the traverse gear case.  That's a good sign.  But if that gear case is cracked, as many are, you will be out significant $$ to replace it
This looks like an interesting project.  Please keep us informed as you progress, to include many pic's!!

Good Luck,  Bill


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## Atlas2start (Jun 8, 2021)

bill70j said:


> Fred:
> 
> I think you got a good deal, assuming you can get it cleaned up and back together, to include fitting the QCGB,  without spending much money. This also assumes you're building it for your use and you're not planning on flipping it.
> 
> ...


Bill,
I have a friend that is looking for one of these, so I am going to refurbish it for him.  If he does not want it, then it might end up getting flipped.  But I was really just looking for a refurb project to putter on.  This one looks like it will be fun.  
Overall, it is really in good shape, it looks worse than it is.  The only downside is the lack of accessories.

Fred


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## wa5cab (Jun 11, 2021)

Relatively complete 3/8" bed Atlas built lathes are relatively cheap compared to the competition (except for the QCGB's).  However, the same generally isn't true of most accessories.  Although Atlas built most of the accessories that they sold, they didn't build chucks or collets and collet closers.  One other thing that may not be obvious to most newbies is that a complete 3-jaw chuck with one-piece jaws should have two sets of three jaws.  Whereas most 4-jaw chucks have reversible jaws, most 3-jaw ones don't (and the few that do don't tend to last very long).  So one thing to always check before buying a 3-jaw chuck with solid jaws is that it comes with both sets of jaws.  Many don't because the other set got separated from the chuck and lost.  You can't just go out and buy another set because the jaws have to be matched to the chuck.


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## pdentrem (Jun 11, 2021)

I bought a new 3 jaw for exactly that reason. I bought a 5” Bison with 2 piece jaws to solve the problem.
Pierre


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## Atlas2start (Jun 14, 2021)

wa5cab said:


> Relatively complete 3/8" bed Atlas built lathes are relatively cheap compared to the competition (except for the QCGB's).  However, the same generally isn't true of most accessories.  Although Atlas built most of the accessories that they sold, they didn't build chucks or collets and collet closers.  One other thing that may not be obvious to most newbies is that a complete 3-jaw chuck with one-piece jaws should have two sets of three jaws.  Whereas most 4-jaw chucks have reversible jaws, most 3-jaw ones don't (and the few that do don't tend to last very long).  So one thing to always check before buying a 3-jaw chuck with solid jaws is that it comes with both sets of jaws.  Many don't because the other set got separated from the chuck and lost.  You can't just go out and buy another set because the jaws have to be matched to the chuck.


Robert,
Thankyou for that bit of information, I did not know that they were matched. Now I am going to have to see if all of my 3 jaw chucks are complete or not.

Fred


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## wa5cab (Jun 15, 2021)

OK.  Note that this only applies to solid jaw chucks.  Chucks (regardless of how many jaws) with 2-piece jaws have "n" master jaws that aren't reversed or reversible and "n" jaws bolted onto the tops of the masters that can be reversed.  The top jaws are supposedly all identical so it does not matter which master jaw you bolt them to.  Some top jaws are made of aluminum, brass, softer steel, etc. and can be installed and then machined in place for various purposes.


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## Atlas2start (Jun 27, 2021)

Update!
I replaced the broken foot, and cleaned and painted the the feet and rails.


and I found the Serial number


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## Atlas2start (Jun 27, 2021)

After that, I started working on the Apron, and ran into some issues.  The gear box, which at first looked good, turned out to have a broken foot.
The scroll and lever appear to have been JB Welded together, so I removed those as well.  
Some of the Gib screws had been replaced with allen head screws. and finally, 
the tool post slide had been broken and poorly repaired.


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## wa5cab (Jun 27, 2021)

I don't think that I commented on this earlier, but Atlas did not make chucks.  They bought them from 2 or 3 different specialty houses.

Also, the lathe itself was made between 1938 and 1942.  That is based on the fact that from sometime in 1942 on, the headstock casting had a rectangular hole that was covered by a rectangular motor switch mounting plate.  Yours has a hole in the casting for mounting the switch and  an oval shaped flat aria for an oval switch position indicator plate.  Plus it has the serial number stamped into the right end of the front way that was replaced by a rectangular model and serial number plate riveted to the right end of the bed.  Yours would originally have had a model number plate riveted to the rear of the bed.


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## MikeInOr (Jun 28, 2021)

I have an Atlas 12" and I have been looking for an affordable quick change box for it for 20 years.  I gave up and bought a South Bend that already had a quick change box.  You might possibly get almost $500 for the quick change box by itself on ebay.  In other words I think you did just fine with your purchase considering the quick change box came with it.



> After that, I started working on the Apron, and ran into some issues. The gear box, which at first looked good, turned out to have a broken foot.
> The scroll and lever appear to have been JB Welded together, so I removed those as well.
> Some of the Gib screws had been replaced with allen head screws. and finally,
> the tool post slide had been broken and poorly repaired.



I should have read the whole thread first.  It kind of sounds like the previous owner might have been trying to hide some of the problems with a paint job?


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## Atlas2start (Jun 28, 2021)

MikeInOr said:


> I have an Atlas 12" and I have been looking for an affordable quick change box for it for 20 years.  I gave up and bought a South Bend that already had a quick change box.  You might possibly get almost $500 for the quick change box by itself on ebay.  In other words I think you did just fine with your purchase considering the quick change box came with it.
> 
> 
> 
> I should have read the whole thread first.  It kind of sounds like the previous owner might have been trying to hide some of the problems with a paint job?


The individual that I purchased the lathe from was on FB market place, and spoke very poor english.  I don't think he knew about half the issues that I have run across.  I just wish he hadn't painted over everything.  Of course, the after pictures will be more dramatic because he did paint over everything.  lol


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## jwmay (Jun 28, 2021)

MikeInOr said:


> You might possibly get almost $500 for the quick change box by itself on ebay.


Paid more than that for mine. But I don't have 20 year patience, and I've got too much of my own blood, sweat and tears in my Atlas to cast it off for a different one. Lol


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## Atlas2start (Jun 29, 2021)

Just cleaned up the the split nuts that came with the lathe, and they look better than I thought they would.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jun 29, 2021)

I'm sorry to burst your bubble, but those nuts are pretty much gone  They might still work and it wouldn't hurt to try, but I'd suggest looking for replacements.


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## Atlas2start (Jun 29, 2021)

mattthemuppet2 said:


> I'm sorry to burst your bubble, but those nuts are pretty much gone  They might still work and it wouldn't hurt to try, but I'd suggest looking for replacements.


The new ones from Clausing arrived today, already installed them.   But thanks for the headsup, I will pitch the old ones.


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## wa5cab (Jun 30, 2021)

The two original half-nuts had two things wrong with them.  One is that the one on the right was 100% worn out (the flat surface originally on the ID of the threads was completely gone).  The other reason is that the wear pattern on the left one indicates that it was either not a mirror image of the right one or that the problem was the scroll or guide.  My guess would be that the two were each made in a different (non matching) set of dies or that the scroll and/or guide  were not made to print.  Safest thing to do is to also replace the scroll and guide.  By the time that there is enough wear to determine the culprit, it will be too late if the culprit turns out to have been the guide or scroll.


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## Atlas2start (Jul 5, 2021)

wa5cab said:


> The two original half-nuts had two things wrong with them.  One is that the one on the right was 100% worn out (the flat surface originally on the ID of the threads was completely gone).  The other reason is that the wear pattern on the left one indicates that it was either not a mirror image of the right one or that the problem was the scroll or guide.  My guess would be that the two were each made in a different (non matching) set of dies or that the scroll and/or guide  were not made to print.  Safest thing to do is to also replace the scroll and guide.  By the time that there is enough wear to determine the culprit, it will be too late if the culprit turns out to have been the guide or scroll.


I replaced the half-nuts and the scroll, but not the guide.


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## Atlas2start (Jul 5, 2021)

Finished the tailstock and the New-All gear changer.  Nothing major was wrong with them, other than the old grease and the paint all over everything.

Fred


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## wa5cab (Jul 5, 2021)

Atlas2start said:


> I replaced the half-nuts and the scroll, but not the guide.


Well, the guide is the least likely to have been the source.


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## Smudgemo (Aug 10, 2021)

Geez, someone really went nuts with the paint.  Hopefully that means zero prep and easier to remove.
Looking good.  I like seeing refurb threads for machine tools.


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