# Important non machine tools to have?



## Aaron_W (Jan 31, 2018)

As I read threads here, watch videos etc I continue to see misc tools bought up. Since they are general tools and not specific to any machine, they seem to be overlooked in the many I'm buying xyz machine, what should I get with it threads.

Some like sockets and wrenches are likely assumed to be owned by anyone contemplating a more complex tool like a lathe or mill. Others are common tools, but not quite so universal. An example in my case, I find myself looking at a variety of hammers. I have carpentry hammers, not metal working hammers.

Then there are specialty tools, probably nice to have for most, but not critical unless doing work that requires extreme precision or specific techniques. I've been following the various surface plate and lapping plate discussions currently ongoing (I didn't even know what either of these things were a week ago) and these seem to fall into this category. Many of the measuring tools also probably fall into this range. These are tools you tend to buy when you need them.


So if you were starting from scratch to build up a basic kit of general metal working tools for your shop, what are the most important tools you would want to start off with. As I'm sure this could be a long list feel free to shorten to a top 5, 10 or 20 as fits the stamina of your fingers. You are also more than welcome to write a dissertation about the perfect beginners tool kit, you will be guaranteed at least one reader (me).  

And remember non-machine specific, although basic machines you feel should be in any shop that has a lathe (drill press, grinder etc) and machine tools like drill bits used in many machines would be appropriate to include.


Just to get things rolling and to reduce redundancy as I suspect everybody would list these, I'll suggest:

3/8" drive socket and ratchet set, metric and SAE, minimum sizes 1/4" / 6mm through 9/16 / 15mm, more is better

Box end wrenches, same sizes as above

Small 6 foot tape measure

Power drill and drill bits 1/16 to 3/8 (1/32 steps) (those of you in metric land substitute for metric sizes as appropriate)

Asst screw drivers, Phillips and standard

Allen wrench set (1/16-1/4" and 1.5mm - 7mm)


Without this minimum selection of tools, I would not have been able to even assemble most of the toys I've bought so far.


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## chips&more (Jan 31, 2018)

Sorry, I cannot list all the stuff in my garage. It would take me years to list it all.


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## Aaron_W (Jan 31, 2018)

chips&more said:


> Sorry, I cannot list all the stuff in my garage. It would take me years to list it all.



That's why I threw in the top 5, 10, 20 whatever you feel comfortable with. 

What are a couple of your go to tools that you would be lost without that people might not think about when they are starting out.


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## ch2co (Jan 31, 2018)

Coffee pot to make things keep running.  
Beer refrigerator for recovery after long day.


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## Robert LaLonde (Jan 31, 2018)

In this day and age... a fast computer with a fast internet connection.


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## RJSakowski (Jan 31, 2018)

If you plan on doing any machining, you should have the full fractional drill bit set, 1/16 to 1/2 by 1/64ths.  Among other items would be a hack saw and files.  For measuring a caliper capable of reading to .001" or .01mm and a steel rule.  I like the flexible rules reading to 1/50 inch in six inch and 18 inch lengths.  A machinist's square in 8"length, scribes, dividers for layout.  A dial indicator and/or test indicator and stand.  A 0-1" micrometer is useful but not necessary depending on the work you're doing.

This will get you started and the list will grow.


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## Silverbullet (Jan 31, 2018)

There's not enough memory on here or mine to list every tool and machine in my shop. Let alone parts and tooling . It's an accumulated yearly for forty plus years along with inheritance and gifts . But to start you do need a good set of mechanics tools . Wrenches up to at least 1 1/4" sockets the same, ball pein hammers 8oz up to 32oz . Screwdrivers , torx and Allen wrenches pliers , vise grips. C clamps . The list goes on forever but to start this list should help . Get metric counterparts also


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## Nogoingback (Jan 31, 2018)

Here are a few things in no particular order:

Combination square (Starrett or equivalent) .   Couldn't be without one.
Hammers, obviously.   I seem to use my dead blow hammer more than any other so I would include that.
Calipers, dial or electronic plus at least one Indicator.
Drill press.  
Belt sander. Never realized how useful they are until I got one.  Use it all the time.
As far as drills go, I'll go out on a limb and say if I were starting today from scratch I would buy a set of screw machine
drill before I'd buy jobber length.  The only time I need long drills is when I'm drilling 2 x 4's.  Shorter drills are stiffer 
and do a better job.  But of course in the end a set of each would be good.


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## ThunderDog (Jan 31, 2018)

I'm only addressing things that relate to machining.  As other have said, tools are acquired over time.  I assume one owns socket sets, hammers, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.  I consider these basic hand tools that cross-over to a variety of trades.

These are my top five (machinist related,/ultra newbie/what I found useful when I bought my first lathe) tools:
6" Digital caliper  (It doesn't have to be digital.)
Dial indicator
Micrometer
1-2-3 blocks
QUALITY set of drill bits in increments of 64ths.  (I already owned drill bits, but they were butchered from my days working as a plumber and in the construction field.)

Bonus:
Calculator (Yes, this is basic and obvious.  I now have a couple old cheap ones stuck to my garage cabinets with double sided tape.  So handy to know where it is when I need it.)
A good quality printout of a drill chart/tap chart with conversions.  (Stuck to the cabinet door beside that calculator.)
Adjustable Wrench  (Yes, this is basic.  But, I use it almost EVERY SINGLE TIME I'm working.)


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## wrmiller (Jan 31, 2018)

I currently have in my 'shop':

Air Compressor
Parts Washer
Two 40" Craftsman toolboxes full of hand tools (too many to list here)
A Foredom flex-shaft hand grinder (sturdier version of a Dremel)
A small blast cabinet full of medium glass beads.
A 3-piece Kennedy tool box with measuring stuff (DIs, DTIs, calipers, mics, gauge blocks, pin gauges, etc., etc..) and lathe/mill specific tooling (too many to list here)
A 72" hand work bench
A iMac computer hooked to my WiFi (the one I'm typing on...)
Coffee pot
A 6 1/2 x 10" metal cutting bandsaw (Griz G4030)
Two grinders with various wheels
Two granite plates

Still to get:

Larger blast cabinet
AC/DC TIG welder w/accessories
A small combo sheet metal brake/shear

It's not a lot, but I manage.


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## ThunderDog (Jan 31, 2018)

wrmiller said:


> I currently have in my 'shop':
> 
> Air Compressor
> Parts Washer
> ...



 Sounds like you're barely surviving.


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## wrmiller (Jan 31, 2018)

ThunderDog said:


> Sounds like you're barely surviving.



Hey, I got blindsided/laid off into early retirement. I gotta have something to do with my days.


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## mikey (Jan 31, 2018)

Aaron, I'll contribute but how about at the end of this thread you compile a summary and see if the mods will make it a sticky. This comes up often enough that it should be one.

*Safety Glasses and hearing protection.*

*Marking out*: 

Magnifiers as required. This is more important than you might realize, even for young guys with young eyes.
layout dye (a Sharpie is a good substitute)
a sharp scribe (I prefer the Starrett 70A steel scribe so I can sharpen it easily; the 70AX and BX are carbide but harder to sharpen).
sharp prick and center punches and know how to use them. 
Hermaphrodite calipers are useful, as is a dial caliper that you don't mind abusing for layout work. 
A height guage for more precise layout is useful but for general use a small surface gauge is often handy; I use a beautiful Starrett 56B with a 6" Starrett scale often. Use these tools on a surface plate as they are intended.
An optical center punch can be useful but parallax makes it difficult to be accurate; skill with a sharp prick punch is usually just as accurate as an optical punch. 
You need a small brass hammer to hit punches with - make your own. 
You should also have a good, hardened combination square and an accurate protractor (I like the old style Starrett C493B).
*Lathe*

Good light - LED is cool, bright. I like the Aurora from Woodturner's Wonders. Light makes you safer and more accurate.
Wrenches and hex keys tailored to your lathe. I have these tools dedicated for use with the lathe so I don't have to go find the set they came with when I need them.
Dedicated indicator holders for use with the 4 jaw chuck or checking run out. Make these.
Lathe tool height gauge - make one that is on the exact center height of your lathe. One of the most used and useful tools in your shop. I also use it to align my threading tools; I butt one end of the gauge to the chuck and the other end to the side of my accurately ground tool and the 60 degree tip is quickly set. I abhor using a fishtail for this job.
A small tray to contain all the tools in use at the lathe. Stupid? No, not really.
Good turning tools and whatever it takes to keep them sharp - grinders, hones, etc.
Calculator - get a solar powered one so the thing works every time you use it, which is often.
Thread micrometers or 3-wire set, dial calipers/mics, a stainless or brass brush and compressed air are all needed for thread cutting.
*A really, really good first aid kit, and know how to use every item in it. Keep this stocked at all times.*
*Mill*

Same thing - specific wrenches and stuff you need for the mill, light, etc.
Good dial and dial test indicators and holders as required. 
Small dead blow hammer to position vise and work pieces. I like the Wiha 18oz.
Spindle wrench from Luminar if it suits and a drawbar wrench.
A good clamping set to lock stuff down to the table, rotary table, etc.
A small 1" screwless vise that will hold small work pieces. It goes in your milling vise and can be angled as required. Mine has a V in the jaw to hold small round work.
Angle block set - import is fine.
Tilting angle table is really useful. I much prefer using this over an angle block set so the work piece is clamped solidly and square in the vise while its surface is cut at an angle. You will botch up fewer jobs with this table. The Sherline tilting table will hold the rotary table and allow you to do stuff that is not usually possible.
Square and Hex collet block set - very useful for simple indexing jobs on round stuff. 
*General*

Screwdrivers - buy JIS (Japan International Standard) screw drivers and bits - they do not cam out. You can buy good ones from Vessel Tools and others. The tool bit sets from Chapman are good, too.
Hex Drivers - I suggest Bondhus - more precise, sized more accurately and tough as hell.
Pliers - try the NWS pliers from Lee Valley Tools. You might not think pliers are important but they are.
Precision Tweezers - very handy for many jobs, including pulling splinters out of your hands on a near daily basis.
Torque wrenches and torque screwdrivers if you don't have them. The best are from Precision Instruments and Sturtevant-Richmont. SR makes a really nice little inch-pound screwdriver torque wrench that is useful.
Fire extinguisers
That's what comes off the top of my head and I'm sure I missed a bunch. The most important item is the first aid kit. If you can, keep a cell phone on your person when working in the shop; if you go down or are caught in a machine you need to get help.


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## Dave Paine (Jan 31, 2018)

ThunderDog said:


> QUALITY set of drill bits in increments of 64ths.  (I already owned drill bits, but they were butchered from my days working as a plumber and in the construction field.)
> 
> Bonus:
> Calculator (Yes, this is basic and obvious.  I now have a couple old cheap ones stuck to my garage cabinets with double sided tape.  So handy to know where it is when I need it.)
> A good quality printout of a drill chart/tap chart with conversions.  (Stuck to the cabinet door beside that calculator.)



I purchased a cheap 115 drill bit set.   This was a bad decision.   Some of the drill bits were not sized correctly.   I ended up getting a decent quality 115 drill bit set, so the other now gathers dust.

I also find a calculator very useful in the shop.    I purchased an HP 32S "scientific" calculator several decades ago.     I now keep this in the shop.   I use it often.  It is not solar powered, but the battery is going strong after many years.   I wonder how many folks can still remember how to operate an HP calculator with RPN (Reverse Polish Notation).

I recently got a drill/tap chart.   It is mounted on a door, not next to the calculator, but in easy view.

I would add to a list a good and quiet shop vac.   I have a Fein shop vac I purchased at least a decade ago.   Fein and Festool make quiet vacs.   Sadly my model is no longer made.   Fein now only sell a smaller model.   I will not be happy if mine dies since I will not be able to replace it.


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## ttabbal (Jan 31, 2018)

@mikey  ... You mean I shouldn't use a 5lb mini-sledge to hit punches with?!?!? It makes such nice deep punches though!!  

You guys are making my wallet cry out in terror with all the tools I'm going to be looking for. 

I've got a simple scribe, but I think I will make a sharper one as an early project when I get the lathe set up. Maybe like the one ClickSpring shows in one of his videos. Easy, but useful. 

For drill presses... Clamps, and vise grips. Having the metal part grab in the bit and start spinning and/or flying randomly around the shop is not a fun experience. Don't do it. Or so I'm told, I wouldn't do that.... *wanders off trying to look innocent*


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## Eddyde (Jan 31, 2018)

Aron, It would be helpful to know what kind of projects and what size machines you'll be working on? Some of your choices seem a little small, but if you are only going to build small items that may be fine.


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## FOMOGO (Jan 31, 2018)

I will add a few of the more subjective items. Good tunes, a sense of humor, and a sense of irony. Mike


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## mikey (Jan 31, 2018)

ttabbal said:


> @mikey  ... You mean I shouldn't use a 5lb mini-sledge to hit punches with?!?!? It makes such nice deep punches though!!
> 
> You guys are making my wallet cry out in terror with all the tools I'm going to be looking for.
> 
> ...



I have a little brass headed hammer that is only used for punch marks. The head is mounted on a stainless steel shaft that inserts at a 5 degree angle; this allows the head to come down square on the end of the punch so I don't push the point off my lines. It has a beautiful Tiger Koa handle made to fit my right hand. Works good, and certainly gooder than a 5# sledge when marking out!

Have you seen the Kreg Bench Clamps? Pretty nice. They auto-adjust for height and you can adjust the clamping pressure. I made T-nuts to fit them that fit the T-track on my drill press table and the clamps are easily positioned. Having the clamps there means I usually use them, which is safer for me: https://www.kregtool.com/store/c29/bench-clamps/p390/3-bench-clamp/


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## Cooter Brown (Jan 31, 2018)

A Brain


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## whitmore (Jan 31, 2018)

Aaron_W said:


> I continue to see misc tools bought up. Since they are general tools and not specific to any machine, they seem to be overlooked.



I once remarked that my swiss army knife (super tinker, if it  matters) was useful, but what I really
wanted was a swiss army stick.   All the sizes, shapes, colors, ready to flip out and use...

bamboo chopstick - for probing (whittle end to best shape)
kebab skewer - for fine probing
toothpick -for grease application
Popsicle stick - for epoxy prep and application
slats- yardstick, paint stirrers
shim wedges - singles to steady rounds in vise, pairs for adjustable parallels
shim wedges - scraper
2x4 scrap - soft vise jaw
2x4 scrap - drill press table saver
2x4 scrap - shim stock for coarse work
tongue depressor - shim stock for fine work
4x4 block - customizable pencil/scribe/scale/forcep stand
endgrain butcher block - gasket/shim/pattern cutting substrate


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## Wreck™Wreck (Jan 31, 2018)

Hammers are special, one does not use a claw hammer in a milling machine equipped with a direct read out as this will cause the electronics to fail in disgust, only a "brass machinist hammer" with an exquisitely knurled handle will work, the machine will know the difference.

Combination wrenches that have Bridgeport forged into the body are superior to those without such markings, while it is true that most any common hand tool will work those that are specific to machine work uniformly cost more yet make the user feel better about their choice.

Hope this helps


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## Ray C (Jan 31, 2018)

Hand files.  Machinist,  jeweler and riffler types.


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## jcp (Jan 31, 2018)

Many of the jobs I do in the home shop (and did in the job shop I spent 31 yrs. in) could not have been accomplished without the oxy/acy torch and an electric (mig, tig or arc) welder.


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## MikeInOr (Jan 31, 2018)

Aaron_W said:


> Just to get things rolling and to reduce redundancy as I suspect everybody would list these, I'll suggest:
> 
> 3/8" drive socket and ratchet set, metric and SAE, minimum sizes 1/4" / 6mm through 9/16 / 15mm, more is better
> Box end wrenches, same sizes as above
> ...



Glaring items I see missing from your list:
Decent safety glasses that are good enough that you will actually wear them!
Square, machinist or an accurate combination square.
Calipers
Dial indicator - and holder
Center Transfer punch set
Punch set
Brass punches - for knocking metal around without maring
Brass hammer
Dead blow hammer
Clamps
Parallel set - I have 1/8" set and doing ok so far.
Pliers, Needle Nose pliers, wire cutters, wire strippers, flush cutting wire cutters, crimp tool.
Multi-meter
Big box of disposable rags
Files
Vise Grips
Hex bit set - HF selles a big set with the security bits in them which is really handy when you have an odd fastener that you don't have a driver for.
Precision / Jewelers screw driver set
Bench vise
Hacksaw - saw can be cheap but don't cheap out on hacksaw blades!
Crow bar
Hand drill

For some of these (Punches, hammers, some clamps or even screw drivers) harbor freight works fine.  Tools that have joints or move like pliers, wire cutters, clamps, wrenches I feel it is best to buy Husky / Channel lock / other decent quality brands or better.  HF can make some really crappy pliers that are miserable to use.  I think for calipers and a square it is worth it to buy a top name tool because they get used so much and it is hard to maintain accuracy with some lower end of tools.


I am sure many members have been acquiring tools all their lives and just have these tools... But for someone just starting out I can see how a list of basic tools would be useful.  Garage sales / estate sales are often a good place to find good tools at reasonable prices.

A Come-A-Long and a hand truck can come in awfully handy.  An angle grinder is close to a required tool for me, so is a bench grinder.


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## Ben Nevis (Jan 31, 2018)

A 4 1/2" angle grinder (or two or three) is extremely handy. I have three of them, one with a cut off wheel, one with a grinding wheel, and one with a sanding disc. Saves having to change wheels.


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## Ulma Doctor (Jan 31, 2018)

if i were going to make a basic kit for a hobbyist shop it would at least include these items- sorry if they are redundant to other posts
in no specific order...
6" and/or 8" dial calipers
Files
Hacksaw
dividers- straight and hermaphrodite
micrometers- up to 4" minimum, 6" if you have the resources
Combination Wrenches- 1/4" to 1" and 5mm to 24mm
Socket Set 3/8 drive 12point 1/4'-1" and 5mm to 24mm
Screwdriver Set- Phillips, Straight, TORX, (mini drivers too!)
Allen Wrenches -imperial and metric
Plier Set- needle nose, lineman's pliers, slip joint pliers, wire cutters, VISE GRIPS
Snap ring Pliers
Drill
Imperial drill bits #60 to 1/2", A-Z
Hammers- a Soft Faced, a Brass, a 32oz Deadblow ball peen, a 4lb lil' friend too
Punches and Chisels
Feeler Gauges
Taps and Dies


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## Aaron_W (Jan 31, 2018)

Thank you, seems like people are starting to get the idea. This came about because of little things I am running across. Seeing a youtuber grab a fairly basic tool, and I'm thinking, so that is what that is for, or that is so much easier than how I do it without that tool. Often a fairly low cost item available at almost any hardware store if you know to look for it.

I am very new to this so almost daily I'm finding out about something new that I didn't even know I didn't know. Last night I "discovered" the fish tail gauge, not expensive but apparently kind of handy to have around.

This morning I searched for threads on general recommended shop tools, but what I mostly found were "I'm getting ready to buy / just bought xyz machine what tooling should I get" threads, and those for the most part center around lathe / mill specific tooling, endmills, center drills etc. Some measuring devices are generally mentioned as they are such an important factor with those tools, but very little on things like screw drivers, thread gauges, punches, and other misc tools that are probably assumed to be in possession of somebody buying a lathe or mill.

Sure the list could be huge, but certainly there are a dozen or two tools that are at least very nice to have if not must have tools regardless of the kind of machining projects you do.

I went with 1/4"-9/16" (and metric counter part) sockets / wrenches because those are the sizes I have frequently found useful in general. Sure I have larger sockets for specific purposes, but they don't get used all that much. I'd guess 3/8", 1/2" and 9/16" (plus the corresponding metric sizes) alone account for close to 75% of my lifetime socket needs.

I hope that makes my intent clearer, I'm not expecting a full inventory of tool chests from a lifetime of collecting tools, or a list of highly specialized tools needed for making kerosene lamp widgets. Just a list of tools you use frequently in your projects that you wouldn't want to do without, at least those relating to machining.




mikey said:


> Aaron, I'll contribute but how about at the end of this thread you compile a summary and see if the mods will make it a sticky. This comes up often enough that it should be one.



I can do that. Unless the posts lock themselves after a time (some forums do), I can edit it right into the first post to make it easy to find.



MikeInOr said:


> Glaring items I see missing from your list:



Was just meant as an ice breaker. I was just thinking of the tools I initially used while setting up the lathe and mill.



Ulma Doctor said:


> if i were going to make a basic kit for a hobbyist shop it would at least include these items- sorry if they are redundant to other posts



No need to apologize, I can edit redundant tools when I compile the list.


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## jrkorman (Jan 31, 2018)

A pair of walkie-talkies - or similar - if the need or situation was bad enough, just keying the mic would bring help!


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## gr8legs (Jan 31, 2018)

It's getting tough to find items not already listed:

Swarf Brushes
Squeeze bottles for lubricants & coolant
Paper towel dispenser and towels
Waterless hand lcleaner
Flux brushes
Tongue depressors for applying grease or mixing epoxies
Number punches (letters too, eventually)
Utility knife or three
Magnetic & claw-style reach / pick up tools
Rubber or vinyl etc. gloves 
Shop shoes
a few 'Radio' chassis punches
'Laser' thermometer
Extension cords
Offset screwdrivers
Duct tape
Wheel dresser when you get a bench grinder
Whetstone or two
Hemostats (surgical tweezers)
nut starter
Soldering iron & appropriate solder
Propane torch
Nut Buster (sometimes they work 
Thread chaser
Electric Engraver


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## bfd (Feb 1, 2018)

I would be lost without my battery powered drill, impact, grinder and bandsaw bill


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## MikeInOr (Feb 1, 2018)

Aaron_W said:


> Was just meant as an ice breaker. I was just thinking of the tools I initially used while setting up the lathe and mill.


I meant Glaring... in the sense that I couldn't imagine being able to get anything done without what I consider essentials...  I wasn't trying to make a jab at you.

We all start somewhere and I think for the most of us this is a life long quest.  I am fortunate in that I have some really nice tools... but I also have a fair amount of harbor freight tools.  Some tools that I use a lot it is worth it to me to splurge on quality tools.  Some tools I only use a couple times and a cheap tool will allow me to get done what I want to get done.  Some tools like my HF center punch set, brass punches and hammers are as good as any for my purposes and have served me well for a very long time with considerable use... it is pretty hard to mess up a cylindercal brass bar.  Some tools I went cheap and have regretted doing so.  My budget tool budget is limited like I imagine most members are... I wish I had someone guiding me on what would probably be worth paying a premium for and where to cut corners when I started out.


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## ebolton (Feb 1, 2018)

I have one of the same, though I don't keep it in my shop. It's a shame they don't make a good scientific RPN calculator anymore. HP put out some sort of commemerative calculator a few years ago that I bought and use at work. It's about twice as big as the HP11 and a fourth as heavy. It feels cheap, not like the rugged HP calculators of the old days. I put that 11C through the ringer. Froze the LCD display solid a bunch of times, and it's always worked after thawing. Overheated it a few times, too, and it's always come back.

Now, I mostly use an HP calculator emulator on my Android phone around the house or shop.

-Ed



Dave Paine said:


> ...
> I also find a calculator very useful in the shop.    I purchased an HP 11C "scientific" calculator several decades ago.     I now keep this in the shop.   I use it often.  It is not solar powered, but the battery is going strong after many years.   I wonder how many folks can still remember how to operate an HP calculator with RPL (Reverse Polish Logic).
> 
> ...


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## Ray C (Feb 1, 2018)

ebolton said:


> I have one of the same, though I don't keep it in my shop. It's a shame they don't make a good scientific RPN calculator anymore. HP put out some sort of commemerative calculator a few years ago that I bought and use at work. It's about twice as big as the HP11 and a fourth as heavy. It feels cheap, not like the rugged HP calculators of the old days. I put that 11C through the ringer. Froze the LCD display solid a bunch of times, and it's always worked after thawing. Overheated it a few times, too, and it's always come back.
> 
> Now, I mostly use an HP calculator emulator on my Android phone around the house or shop.
> 
> -Ed



Your days of wanting an HP are over:  https://www.amazon.com/SwissMicros-DM15L/dp/B01DYUKK2K.  Check-out the Swissmicro website, they have other models as well.

I still have the original 15C purchased the first year they were available (82).   Works fine but, is a little worse for the wear.   Upon discovering this clone, I took a chance and guess what?  It's just fine!  Functionally identical and after 10 minutes, you'll forget it's not the real thing.

Also, I have an original HP 33C also purchased the first year the were available (80) while earning my first degree (physics and applied math).  After a couple years, some of the segments in the LED started to go bad.   It still works today with the same glitches it had 38 years ago.   HP still makes the 35S (about $50) which is an excellent substitute for the old 33C.   I have several of these around and is my main shop calculator.

Enjoy...  

Ray

PS:  Take a chance on the SwissMicro if you liked the original 15C.  I think you'll be surprised/pleased.


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## eeler1 (Feb 1, 2018)

broom, pan and brush 

nitrile gloves 

kbc, msc, mcmaster/carr catalogues


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## EmilioG (Feb 1, 2018)

This is how it all starts.   If you love tools the way most of here do, soon you'll find yourself buying more tools then you'll ever need.
Seriously, I would buy quality tools that will last and not frustrate you later.  

If buying used, do your research and ask lot's  of questions. Be careful with Ebay. Do price comparisons. Che k often for prevailing prices and discounts.  Lots of tooling prices go up and down like the stock market.
Members here are very knowledgeable.  There will be quite a few choices for every single item you want to buy., so I would consider
quality, value, condition and price.  I buy a lot of older, vintage USA and European tools. Lot's of NOS tools around.  Google is your friend.
Have fun. 
 I'll add one or two useful items to the list:  Starrett screw pitch gages. The # 474 and 156M
Mitutoyo telescoping gages, Etalon Micrometers. 
Have fun and good luck.


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## umahunter (Feb 1, 2018)

Get the harbor  freight  4x6 bandsaw and join the yahoo group for it to get it cutting good add a good bimetal blade I use mine constantly there's tons of mods to make it into a great machine the best thing is you can cut stock in the middle of the night if you want and not bother anyone


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## umahunter (Feb 1, 2018)

Another good thing is a good set of caliper be careful on ebay there lots of Chinese knockoffs I get all my stuff at msi viking gauge they have legitimate products at the best prices I've found I got my mititoyo 6 inch digital calipers for 99 bucks and also got a great pair of mitutoyo digital micrometers on sale at at great price I also just got a best test indicator on sale for 45 bucks


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## dpb (Feb 1, 2018)

My RPL HP calculator died many years ago.  However,  Vicinno makes an iPhone app that exactly mimics a 15C.  I use it every day.


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## Chuck K (Feb 1, 2018)

Pedestal grinder with wire wheel on one end and a deburring wheel on the other end. Far and away the most often used tool in my shop.


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## richl (Feb 1, 2018)

If it was not mentioned, my samsung tablet, my samsung smart-ass phone ( I use it for a Hotspot in the garage)
I do lots of searches, video watching and general machinist reading in the shop.


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## NortonDommi (Feb 2, 2018)

Basically you can never have enough tools or a big enough shed .
I have 1,2 & 4 oz ballpein hammers that I use a lot, favorite socket set is 1/4" & 3/8" Metrinch with extra extensions. One of those sets of 100 1/4" drive does everything sets with Torx, security etc tips. Top quality pin punches are a must as are a selection of pliers and I only trust genuine Channellock slip jaws.
Inside & outside calipers and 6" verynears and some good scales.
Everything listed above. As per usual *mikey *has pretty much nailed it.
One thing I use a lot is a 6" Brass wire brush on the polisher, not as aggressive as the steel wire on a grinder so can be used to clean rust off Chrome, clean threads etc and much general light cleaning, use the steel wire brush mainly for deburring. Especially good for sheetmetal edges.


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## 2volts (Feb 2, 2018)

Noga type deburring tool
Good quality bastard/second cut files (flat & half round)
Dead blow hammer
A bag of rags
Some bins for swarf


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## David S (Feb 2, 2018)

If I were starting out again and looking for a hacksaw I would go for the high tension kind.  Only recently switched to high tension and threw the other one out.  Awesome difference for me.

David


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## owl (Feb 2, 2018)

Add to the above list a variety of chemicals, acidulated copper sulfate solution for fine marking on steel, acetone and alcohol for cleaning, acid pickle, sodium hydroxide for aluminum, something to smoke parts with (mineral spirits lamp or carbide come to mind) lapping compound, shellac to hold small parts, superglue, etc.


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## Dave Paine (Feb 2, 2018)

David S said:


> If I were starting out again and looking for a hacksaw I would go for the high tension kind.  Only recently switched to high tension and threw the other one out.  Awesome difference for me.



First time reading of the name "high tension hacksaw".    My hacksaw is decades old.   I do have a screw which tensions the blade.   I do not want to hijack this thread, but I am interested in what makes a high tension hacksaw different than others.


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## David S (Feb 2, 2018)

Hi Dave,
Most of the entry hacksaws have a wing nut kind of tensioner to hold the blade, but the blade often deflects as you use it and the cut can be less than straight.  With a high tension version there is a long handle type of deal that you can crank around about 12 times to put a lot of tension on the blade, so that it "sings" when you pluck it.

David


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## mikey (Feb 2, 2018)

@Dave Paine, I'm with David - buy a high tension hacksaw. They have a much heavier duty frame with a blade tensioning system that allows far more tension to be put on the blade. That keeps the blade taut and straight in the cut, which helps it to cut more effectively. I have three of these things, one Starrett and two Lenox saws, and I prefer the Lenox version. Each of my saws has a different tooth count so I can switch saws depending on the thickness of the material; all are Lenox bi-metal blades. Coupled with some wax stick lubricant, these saws cut really well and certainly better than the old type you're describing. They are worth their moderate cost.


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## Aaron_W (Feb 2, 2018)

On the safety side of things, I've added a smoke detector to the basement. I'm careful, but like the added piece of mind just in case something got going after I went upstairs. It is located where we can hear it upstairs unless it is really noisy.



mikey said:


> You need a small brass hammer to hit punches with - make your own.





Do you have a link to a good description of making one of these, or even what makes for a good brass hammer? Not that it would be particularly hard to make a hammer (weighted head on a stick), but it could be hard to make a good hammer.


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## Aukai (Feb 2, 2018)

A couple of things that I'm glad I have:
Transfer punch set
A good quality tap & die set not the box store type
Thread chaser set
Buy the cheap milling bits before you get the expensive ones, you'll learn the sounds, and vibrations, so the expensive ones live.
I bought a baton magnet for swarf that gets used a lot.


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## David S (Feb 2, 2018)

Aaron, I work on clock repair stuff and made a small brass hammer, from an inexpensive set of buck store screw drivers.  The shaft was perfect Ø for a metric thread with a die.  For the ball, made a counter bore and trapped a steel ball bearing.





David


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## Redmech (Feb 2, 2018)

This book can be purchased used in like new condition for about 4-8$ on eBay or amazon. Absolute best purchase you can make at this time for less than 10$ and will teach you a lot. 


And basically any hand or measuring tools you think you need, you do need. I buy lots of my tools used. So much New is import and cost more than great older USA made tools.


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## mikey (Feb 2, 2018)

Aaron_W said:


> Do you have a link to a good description of making one of these, or even what makes for a good brass hammer? Not that it would be particularly hard to make a hammer (weighted head on a stick), but it could be hard to make a good hammer.



No, its not hard to make a little brass hammer. I'll show you mine and why it is made the way it is but its nothing special. The first pic shows the position the hammer is used in.




The head is just a piece of 3/4" OD X 1.5" long Brass. The shaft is stainless steel with a slot cut into the head end; a set screw (blue loc-tited) locks into the slot so the head won't go flying off.




The shaft is epoxied into the wood handle and extends about 2" into the wood. Note that the hole for the shaft is drilled in the handle at a 5 degree angle. This is because without it, my anatomy causes the flat of the head to hit the end of the punch at an angle that can push the tip of the punch off line. The angle of the shaft corrects this and the head of the hammer hits dead flat on the end of the punch. I use the side shown in the first pic to hit the prick punch to establish my initial hole, then I use the other end of the hammer to whack the center punch. Since the center punch can't drift it doesn't matter much how I hit it.




Too bad my lighting and photo doesn't do the wood justice. In real life, you would see iridescent lines in the Tiger Koa wood. It is shaped to fit my hand. I grip the hammer with my last three fingers and guide with my thumb and forefinger. This lets me hit exactly where I am looking and I can deliver that initial light tap to the prick punch I am going for without thinking about it. 

I only use this hammer for marking out drill locations but I do this often enough that I needed a good, light hammer. This works for me.


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## Aaron_W (Feb 2, 2018)

Dave, Mikey thanks for the hammers. That is more or less what I was imagining, but thought there might be more to it.

Another project added to my list. How does anyone makes stuff, it seems like most are too busy making tools to actually make anything.


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## mikey (Feb 2, 2018)

Redmech said:


> This book can be purchased used in like new condition for about 4-8$ on eBay or amazon. Absolute best purchase you can make at this time for less than 10$ and will teach you a lot.
> 
> 
> And basically any hand or measuring tools you think you need, you do need. I buy lots of my tools used. So much New is import and cost more than great older USA made tools.
> View attachment 256543



I like how you set up your shot! The mics and tool box are a nice setting for the book.


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## Taborclock (Feb 2, 2018)

Wood stove, coffee pot, stuff my grandfather left me......mostly, his knowledge.....he was a tool and die man..


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## Dave Paine (Feb 3, 2018)

After getting my metal lathe I had to get tooling and a lot of the items mentioned in above posts.   I soon realised I did not have anywhere to store the items.

Over time I have purchased tool chests for storage.   This one is 33in wide.   Designed to be on top of another chest.   I picked this up as floor model for $100 at Home Depot.  I disabled the mechanism which prevents the drawers from opening if the top is open since the way I am using this the top is normally open and it will not tip.   This is mounted on a piece of 3/4in ply and the casters screwed through the plywood into the bottom of the chest.  In my cramped shop I need to move this around so I made a handle out of a piece of maple dowel screwed onto the front.   Works well when I need to move this around.




It is amazing how quick we can run out of storage space.   I waited for the Black Friday sales this past Thanksgiving and got this 46in workbench at Home Depot for $200.  I replaced the original casters with swivel locking casters like the one on the 33in chest.  I like this workbench and happy that it is not - yet - full.


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## wawoodman (Feb 3, 2018)

First aid kit, with tweezers and magnifying glass! DAMHIKT


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## rock_breaker (Feb 3, 2018)

If a machinists level is listed I missed it.  I believe a relatively accurate level is used early in the game with machine shop equipment. 
Have a good day
Ray


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## TakeDeadAim (Feb 3, 2018)

Some things all shops need, some have been listed, some not.
Good bench vise
Good hack saw, yes their are crappy ones!  Lenox and Sandivik are the two I have.
Set of various files, different sizes, shapes and types
Clamps, any kind you can find and as many as you can afford
Sharpie type markers
Small mirror, one on a stick helps
Good flashlight, ( I like the new smaller ones that you can adjust the light output)
Good carbide scriber for layout
Set of Starrett or similar center punches
Starrett pin punches, (Ive owned other brands, love the quality of Starrett)
File card
Number drill set
Spill proof containers, one WD40, one Rapid Tap, one Way oil
Acid brushes, Chip brushes
Good set of allen wrenches, SAE and Metric
Course, Med, Fine diamond hones for tool bits
3" and 6" Starrett dividers
Noga type rotary debur tool
Triangle scraper
4 oz & 8 oz ball pein hammers
Small dead blow ball pein hammer
8oz interchangeable head hammer
12" combination square set
6" scale (I like inch/metric black ones) and I bet I have 6 in the shop, one always in my apron pocket

I could go on but in terms of tools I use all the time that maybe one would not consider "machinist tools" these would be on my list of got to have. Many of these items are things that were on the list when I started my apprenticeship or were things I found myself borrowing often so I got my own very early on.  I remember those days, getting paid on Thursday and either saving some $ for a tool or going and getting tools.  It was an exciting time.  I think Ive bored my wife several times when she has asked, "whats that ?" and she got a story of when I bought it and why I had to have it 40 years ago.


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## Aaron_W (Feb 10, 2018)

I'm going to start compiling the suggestions, so time to add your 2 cents if you haven't already.


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## Downunder Bob (Oct 30, 2018)

From my perspective I think the two most important tools I have are an inquiring mind, and the ability to think outside the box, it helps to find new ways to do things, especially when I don't have the desired tool to do something.


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## rock_breaker (Oct 30, 2018)

Along Downunder Bob's line, I dislike the word "can't" especially when it is known that someone has not even made an effort to accomplish the task at hand. When I was in the Portland Quarry "wait" was synonymous with "stop production" which was directly opposite of our assignment.  Are books classified as a tools? Out here in the machinist's lost frontier they are extremely valuable.
Have a good day
Ray


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## conibear (Oct 30, 2018)

An anvil and a dozen different size ball/cross peens


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## Reddinr (Oct 30, 2018)

Large Stilison / pipe wrench to move immovable objects
Strap wrench
Vice grips, various sizes
Wire stripper / cutters
Good quality electrical tape
Soldering iron
Digital multi-meter
Flash light
Magnetic fisher-outer thing
Small scraps of paper towel to make due until you can find a band-aid


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## Aaron_W (Oct 30, 2018)

I forgot about this. I still need to finish compiling a list to sticky.


As far as my original intent, it wasn't so much an everything needed list, more a basic, hard to get along without list of tools for a beginner. 


When I got my lathe, I kind of assumed I just needed the lathe and its special fittings and a way to accurately measure things. 
I quickly found there were other tools that made life easier. Luckily I already had a fairly good assortment of tools on hand, but have bought a lot of duplicates so I don't have to raid the general tool box. Some were obvious (wrenches) some not so much (hammers).


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## Cadillac (Oct 30, 2018)

I don’t know if anyone said it but it will take time and ALOT of money. You will see as with the lathe. You buy the lathe and it opens up a new department of tooling you I need. Start welding buy a welder than grinders and cutting tools and clamps on and on. For some it’s a sickness. I’ve been suffering from it since I was a child. Fourty years later I have a three car garage filled to the brim for every trade their is practically. I couldn’t tell you what to get it’s all second nature to me to go to the garage and have whatever to do the job.
  Only advice I can give you is buy quality the first time. Wait till you have the money for the good one, you’ve waited this long. And take care of your tools that’s what make you capable to do the job. A friend of mine if you need a tool go outside and look on the ground. He leaves everything where he was working. Leaves a  wooden level outside after setting acouple fence post. Then wonders why it’s got a bow in it.  Good luck!


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## T Bredehoft (Oct 30, 2018)

Thirty plus years of professional life have supplied me with almost all the pieces necessary for a hobby shop. The one thing I often miss is an electric metal saw. I understand the HF unit is acceptible, once spruced up, but I''m out of space.


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## bpimm (Oct 30, 2018)

Cooter Brown said:


> A Brain


Damn thats what I've been missing!


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## Mitch Alsup (Oct 30, 2018)

Cooter Brown said:


> A Brain



Do you happen to have the SKU number at McMaster-Carr for that?


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## Cooter Brown (Oct 30, 2018)

A friend that can pick up a Boyar Schultz 612 off a pallet and set it on the ground with his meat hooks.....


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