# Please help decode the welding term acronyms



## graham-xrf (Apr 9, 2020)

In ignorance - I have trouble searching out the newer abbreviations for welding kit.
I only ever used a small stick welder to make my trailer, and it was called a tapped variable core transformer.
That was quite a long time ago.

1) So what is "LIFT"?
2) Is "MMA" another term for a stick welder?
3) What is "IGBT"? In another life, I thought that meant "Insulated Gate Bipolar Transistor"
4) I see MIG / MAG / TIG / FCAW / MMA.
    In one machine, I guess that sounds versatile, but what is "FCAW"?

Lastly - a question about the gas. Argon is inert. It surely works
CO2 is already reacted. It will also stop oxidation somewhat.
So other that it saves on Argon costs, is there any advantage in Argon/CO2 mixtures?


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## SLK001 (Apr 9, 2020)

You'll probably have to provide some context to some of these terms:
FCAW - Flux Core All-position Wire.

MIG - Metal Inert Gas  -  Shielding gas is CO2 , Ar, or the CO2-Ar mixture.

TIG - Tungsten Inert Gas  -  Shielding gas is Helium.

Most modern welding machines use high frequency current.  The IGBT is used to generate the high frequency current (your term is correct).

Some metals will react with the CO2 while molten, thus the need for either the Argon, or Argon-CO2 mixture.  I only weld steel, so CO2 is all I use.  Aluminum MIG requires argon/argon mixture.

I've always called stick welding stick welding.  Recently, I've noticed some manufacturers getting cute and calling it something cute.


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## Lo-Fi (Apr 9, 2020)

Lift usually means "lift start" on cheap TIG machines. You have to short the electrode to the work, then lift away to establish and arc. Proper machines have "HF start", which pulses high frequency to start the arc with no contact. 

MMA: yes

IGBT: yes, correct. Transistor type commonly used in inverter machines. I'm not sure why marketeers have 

Flux Core Arc Welding. Or "gasless mig". It's chuffing horrible - stay away! Cored wire is sometimes used in industry, but quite differently to cheap hobby machines.  

Multi process machines are often less than great at any one process. I have a MIG TIG ARC machine, but the TIG is worse than useless and I ended up buying a separate TIG anyway. 

You actually need the slight reactivity of CO2 in MIG welding: 






Hope that helps


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## graham-xrf (Apr 9, 2020)

@SLK001 and @Lo-Fi  : My thanks to both of you.

"MMA" for "Manual Metal Arc". (Yes - I found it eventually). I can't quite get the motivation for the acronym, other than to sound a bit industry buzzword pretentious. Its like calling a maid a "domestic applications technician".
I will always call it a stick welder!

Thanks too for the steer about not using Flux-Core Arc. I was considering it.

Everyone can find a use in the shop for a nice MIG, but I was attracted to TIG also, especially for aluminium. (er.. aluminum)??

It's a real struggle with the jargon. "Migatronoic Focus Tig 160 DC HP PFC TIG / MMA". It's on a eBay auction, so the owner clearly does not want to keep it. I know what "DC" means, and I can hazard a guess that PFC might be "Power Factor Correction". 
 HP used to mean "Hire Purchase", but in this context , it is definitely something else?

I intend to purchase new, maybe from Amazon. Not sure about anything from eBay any more.


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## Lo-Fi (Apr 9, 2020)

Many of the multi process machines are DC only, which will not weld ali. You need an AC machine for that. I fell into that trap myself. 

Also, when looking at TIG machines, look for one that comes with provision for foot pedal control. Control over amperage and freeing your hand to hold the torch comfortably and precisely is key to getting decent results. 

No idea on HP or PFC in this context, I'm afraid! When looking at welders, I go for brand. R-Tech and Tech-Arc are my go-to in the UK for great kit without spending a fortune. I have a "cheap brand" JAVAC plasma and borrowed a mates Butters TIG welder. I hate both with incredible passion for their epicly poor quality. 

The real difference with MIG machines seems to be the feed roller mechanism. Better machines have larger, smoother motors and more rigid feed assemblies, which all results in smoother, more reliable performance.

I'd recommend weld.com and The Fabrication Series on YouTube to brush up on context, features and why they're important.


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## Tozguy (Apr 9, 2020)

That video is interesting. I especially like the exhaust hood, not something all hobbyists will bother with but it should be the first thing to put in any welding budget.


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## RYAN S (Apr 9, 2020)

SLK001 said:


> You'll probably have to provide some context to some of these terms:
> FCAW - Flux Core All-position Wire.
> 
> MIG - Metal Inert Gas  -  Shielding gas is CO2 , Ar, or the CO2-Ar mixture.
> ...




For TIG, helium is not the only shielding gas, argon is widely used and easier/cheaper to get.


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## Lo-Fi (Apr 9, 2020)

Tozguy said:


> That video is interesting. I especially like the exhaust hood, not something all hobbyists will bother with but it should be the first thing to put in any welding budget.



Especially given the link between welding fumes and cancer made recently. Even something to pull the fumes away from you and keep a fresh air supply is better than nothing. I don't think ad hobbyists we need worry about full air fed masks and suchlike, but a few sensible precautions are definitely worthwhile if you're doing a lot of welding.


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## MrWhoopee (Apr 9, 2020)

Argon/CO2 is not an option for TIG welding. 

"Carbon dioxide (*CO2*) is actually an active gas. It causes oxidation, especially around tungsten (which is the electrode in a *TIG* welder). ... So, in short, *TIG* welding needs pure *argon* to protect the tungsten electrode, and MIG welding works best on a 75%/25% *argon*/carbon dioxide mix to get good weld penetration and flow. "









						Can You Use Argon CO2 Mix for TIG Welding? | Make it From Metal
					

Usually, TIG welding is done with pure argon as a shielding gas and an argon-CO2 gas is used for MIG. However, with a massive rise…




					makeitfrommetal.com


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## graham-xrf (Apr 9, 2020)

While on this subject, I take it that one of those electronic instant-darkening mask/helmet items is a given.


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## Lo-Fi (Apr 9, 2020)

Yes, but get something decent from the get-go. Good thread "welding helmet for my son" ongoing at the moment


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## SLK001 (Apr 9, 2020)

I disagree with spending big money on an electronic helmet, especially as a hobbiest.  My helmet is a $39 Harbor Freight special and other than the batteries only lasting 10 years (and no easy way to replace them), it has served me well.  I use it for both MIG and stick welding.


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## Lo-Fi (Apr 9, 2020)

SLK001 said:


> I disagree with spending big money on an electronic helmet, especially as a hobbiest.  My helmet is a $39 Harbor Freight special and other than the batteries only lasting 10 years (and no easy way to replace them), it has served me well.  I use it for both MIG and stick welding.



Respectfully, I disagree. If I'd had a decent hood when I'd started out, I'm convinced I'd have had an easier time learning. Seeing the pool is half the battle. I've probably spent >£600 on hoods in the past 20 years, with the majority in the past five years. The best £200 I've spent of that has been the Lincoln by a long stretch. Visibility is king, right behind safety.


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## Tozguy (Apr 9, 2020)

Lo-Fi said:


> Especially given the link between welding fumes and cancer made recently. Even something to pull the fumes away from you and keep a fresh air supply is better than nothing. I don't think ad hobbyists we need worry about full air fed masks and suchlike, but a few sensible precautions are definitely worthwhile if you're doing a lot of welding.


The concept of 'not doing enough welding' to mean it is OK to breath a few fumes is what will get a hobbyist into trouble. The danger of welding fumes has been acknowledged and proven for a long time now. Hobbyists are usually concentrating 100% on the puddle and don't realize how much fumes they are breathing. Even if someone welds for only a few days a year it is easy enough to rig up a fan that blows the fumes away from the welder. I implore any new welder, hobbyist or otherwise, to make good ventilation a basic part of their equipment.


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## Skierdude (Apr 9, 2020)

[


graham-xrf said:


> While on this subject, I take it that one of those electronic instant-darkening mask/helmet items is a given.


If you plan to weld with TIG you often weld at quite low amperage for thinner materials. Check that the auto darkening helmet will work correctly. Some of the cheaper helmets are not reliable at low amperage.


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## Lo-Fi (Apr 9, 2020)

Tozguy said:


> The concept of 'not doing enough welding' to mean it is OK to breath a few fumes is what will get a hobbyist into trouble. The danger of welding fumes has been acknowledged and proven for a long time now. Hobbyists are usually concentrating 100% on the puddle and don't realize how much fumes they are breathing. Even if someone welds for only a few days a year it is easy enough to rig up a fan that blows the fumes away from the welder. I implore any new welder, hobbyist or otherwise, to make good ventilation a basic part of their equipment.



I can't disagree. If I'd known when I started out, it would certainly have informed my choices. 



Skierdude said:


> If you plan to weld with TIG you often weld at quite low amperage for thinner materials. Check that the auto darkening helmet will work correctly. Some of the cheaper helmets are not reliable at low amperage.



Yes. This. Lower amperage has definitely been a problem with the lower cost hoods.


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## MrWhoopee (Apr 9, 2020)

SLK001 said:


> I disagree with spending big money on an electronic helmet, especially as a hobbiest.  My helmet is a $39 Harbor Freight special and other than the batteries only lasting 10 years (and no easy way to replace them), it has served me well.  I use it for both MIG and stick welding.



I agree. I spent about half that much for mine on Amazon. I've done a fair amount of welding with it, including aluminum (aluminium?) TIG at 150 amps. Never a flash burn, no problems seeing the puddle. It's in its third year, battery still good. I did have to modify it to accept a 2x cheater lens.


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## aliva (Apr 9, 2020)

Stick welding is also known as *SMAW* *S*hielded, *M*etal,* A*rc *W*eld


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## SLK001 (Apr 9, 2020)

Forget the auto-darkening helmet.  Everyone should learn to weld with a #10 shade - just like I did!


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## MrWhoopee (Apr 9, 2020)

SLK001 said:


> Forget the auto-darkening helmet.  Everyone should learn to weld with a #10 shade - just like I did!



I still nod my head as I hit the pedal, even though the hood is already down.

The proper name for TIG welding is *G*as *T*ungsten *A*rc *W*elding = *GTAW*


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## General Zod (Apr 11, 2020)

Lo-Fi said:


> Many of the multi process machines are DC only, which will not weld ali. You need an AC machine for that. I fell into that trap myself.



You need AC for_  TIG welding_ aluminum.  You can MIG weld aluminum using DC (DCEP to be specific), as that is how spool guns work.  Some MIG welders even have the capability to forego the use of a spool gun and instead use a dedicated MIG gun for aluminum with a carbon graphite liner with specially programmed synergic programs with excellent results



graham-xrf said:


> Thanks too for the steer about not using Flux-Core Arc. I was considering it.



Sometimes FCAW-S (self-shielded flux core wire, typically E71T-GS or E71T-11) is advantageous if working outside and using a SMAW (stick welder) is not available or suitable.  There is also *gas-shielded flux core wire (FCAW-G)*, classification E70T-1/E71T-1 typically, that uses either 100% CO2 or mixed 75/25 Ar/CO2 (suffix 1C or 1C/1M) that work great for indoor MIG welding, or even outdoors if you can avoid air breezes.  This flux-cored wire requires shielding gas, and the slag system works to support the molten weld puddle in out-of-position welding and allows strong and ductile welds just like E7018 stick electrodes, except in a cored wire form from a large spool.  It's like a E7018 stick electrode turned outside-in.  It is also referred to as "dual shield", but that is technically a trademarked name from Esab.


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## graham-xrf (Apr 11, 2020)

So this is a 2-pronged "best-of-both-worlds" approach where you have the external gas shield, and also the slag cover protection all-in-1
 (I think)?
When I last did stick welding, I always had to "imagine" where the puddle was under the slag. I considered the weld very good if the slag peeled up as a slightly curled strip all by itself. I was thinking the "in gas" welds let you see the weld, sans any slag cover, and that be a "good thing".


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## General Zod (Apr 11, 2020)

graham-xrf said:


> So this is a 2-pronged "best-of-both-worlds" approach where you have the external gas shield, and also the slag cover protection all-in-1
> (I think)?
> When I last did stick welding, I always had to "imagine" where the puddle was under the slag. I considered the weld very good if the slag peeled up as a slightly curled strip all by itself. I was thinking the "in gas" welds let you see the weld, sans any slagould  cover, and that be a "good thing".



If by "this" you mean FCAW-G, then I would say that it is a great option, but it doesn't come without it's own set of drawbacks/compromises.  Disadvantages include many wires susceptible to moisture-entrapment that seeks out to penetrate the flux in the middle of the wire, leading to issues like porosity or "worm-tracks".   They must be kept away from moisture in the air - even regular humidity in the air will do-them-in in a few weeks if not careful.   There is also the removal of the slag itself; not particularly difficult as it comes off similar to E7018 where it can lift-off by itself, or otherwise is easily chipped off, but none the less it is there, where as with normal solid-wire MIG and C25 gas there is no such clean-up to attend to.    Also, FCAW-G wire is meant to be ran at high amperages, since it's benefits of high-deposition and deep penetration require a high-energy electric arc (referred to as spray-transfer, or spray-like transfer).  So even for a thin wire like 0.035", you need to be up into the 190-230A range to take advantage of it's capabilities and to avoid the production of large amounts of spatter.  It doesn't run all that well below 130A or so - you end up with a lot of large spatter BB's to clean up afterwards.  Essentially useless for thin metals 1/8" thick and thinner.  As for seeing the weld puddle with solid-wire MIG without having to deal with slag, yes that is an inherent advantage of it.  But at the same time, slag does not  necessarily have to imply "limited visibility" of the weld puddle.  When everything _as a whole_ is not set up properly, from the welder to the the _weldor_, then it can potentially become an issue.  But set-up correctly, a slag-bearing weld procedure can be just as easy as one without.  It surely depends on experience and prior knowledge, trial-and-error, knowing proper welding operating parameters and not just half-a*@'ing things, etc, etc.

On stick welding, if you had to imagine where the puddle was under the slag, that's because either you weren't using enough amperage to have the arc pressure (as in literally, the electric arc produces a pressure against the weld pool) work for you and push the slag back past the weld puddle, or there were other issues in technique such as incorrect electrode angle, travel speed, and/or arc length.  Different electrodes have different-behaving slag systems and require different operating parameters to properly run and manage the molten weld puddle.  E6013 for example, has a very thick, runny, fluid slag that will creep up on your weld puddle if you're not careful with the above aforementioned attributes.  Then that is when the distinction between the molten weld puddle and the slag begins to deteriorate and potentially ruins the weld bead if you get slap entrapment.


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## graham-xrf (Apr 11, 2020)

General Zod said:


> On stick welding, if you had to imagine where the puddle was under the slag, that's because either you weren't using enough amperage to have the arc pressure (as in literally, the electric arc produces a pressure against the weld pool) work for you and push the slag back past the weld puddle, or there were other issues in technique such as incorrect electrode angle, travel speed, and/or arc length.


My thanks General.
Clearly expert - and that I never knew this, I think, was probably all about the relatively feeble 90A-100Amps the little welder could deliver. Variable core transformers can make a high start voltage that collapses to something else when the current gets going. I never noticed being able to use the pressure of the coating gasses to push the slag back. You can bet that when I do shell out on the welder, it will be one that can do better!


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## General Zod (Apr 11, 2020)

General Zod said:


> My thanks General.
> Clearly expert - and that I never knew this, I think, was probably all about the relatively feeble 90A-100Amps the little welder could deliver. Variable core transformers can make a high start voltage that collapses to something else when the current gets going. I never noticed being able to use the pressure of the coating gasses to push the slag back. You can bet that when I do shell out on the welder, it will be one that can do better!



Would you believe that I'm a home-hobbyist?   Both in machining & welding.  Don't that fool you though, as the hamster wheel turns quite fast (in multiple dimensions) in the ol' noggin. 

Oh and I think you mis-understood about the pressure thing.  The coating-gasses are _not _what produce pressure on the molten weld puddle & slag -  it is the molten droplets being propelled from the electrode as the arc melts/consumes the electrode.   The higher the amperage, the more "force" the droplets "smash" into the molten weld puddle, helping keep the slag at bay.


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