# Southbend - What's it worth?



## BKS1957 (Feb 16, 2014)

I have a chance to bid on this 13" southbend, any opinions what it is worth? Thanks.:banghead:


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## Thoro (Feb 16, 2014)

Do you know the catalogue number and serial. Basically, what's the swing and the length of the bed?  What's it sitting on top of. What tooling does it come with?   How's the wear on the bed?


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## rafe (Feb 16, 2014)

It's all about condition and tooling ...there are plenty of sources online for an educated appraisel. I bought my 141/2 from a guy that restored cars at his homeshop and trusted him right off the bat. I've had it about a year and it's been more than I expected....It came with a LOT of great tooling and accesories and it was close enough for me to go get it on my trailer, plus I saw it in action...  .If I were going to purchase one at auction I would bid way below what they are going for, unless I knew it to be in good shape. Tooling,repairs and transportation will add up pretty quickly....is it a local auction? or online? The 13" lathe is a good one, can you repair it yourself? The ways decent (THAT is important unless you can scrape them yourself expensive!) At auction unless I could inspect it thoroughly, I think I'd stay below scrap price.
That's just my opinion and that way if you had a junker you could at least sell the parts off....


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## bvd1940 (Feb 16, 2014)

rafe said:


> It's all about condition and tooling ...there are plenty of sources online for an educated appraisel. I bought my 141/2 from a guy that restored cars at his homeshop and trusted him right off the bat. I've had it about a year and it's been more than I expected....It came with a LOT of great tooling and accesories and it was close enough for me to go get it on my trailer, plus I saw it in action...  .If I were going to purchase one at auction I would bid way below what they are going for, unless I knew it to be in good shape. Tooling,repairs and transportation will add up pretty quickly....is it a local auction? or online? The 13" lathe is a good one, can you repair it yourself? The ways decent (THAT is important unless you can scrape them yourself expensive!) At auction unless I could inspect it thoroughly, I think I'd stay below scrap price.
> That's just my opinion and that way if you had a junker you could at least sell the parts off....



What he said:thinking: unless $ dont mean nuttin to you:roflmao:


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## BKS1957 (Feb 16, 2014)

The one thing I'm seeing about the Southbends is that they are all over the board as far as price. I'm sure it is all about the condition. I do plan on going to the school tomorrow to inspect it closer. The school isn't far from the company I work for so picking it up shouldn't be to much of a problem. I do work as a machinist and have the ability to repair it myself. Thanks for the input.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Feb 16, 2014)

In average condition probably around $1500 without tooling, perhaps less, as lathes larger than the 10" home hobby sweet spot are usually less valuable. In really good condition with lots of tooling (4 jaw, tool holders, drill chuck and centers, steady rest etc), perhaps $2500-3000. If you don't have a lot of competition you might get lucky and get it for a grand! Let us know how how you get on. (BTW, the above is more from a few months of searching Craig's list over the US for a few months rather than any personal experience!)


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## george wilson (Feb 17, 2014)

The lathe in the picture is an EARLY one. Easy to spot since it has the lever on top of the QC gearbox. Those early ones have NO inserted bearings in their spindles. The bearings were machined directly out of the cast iron . If they are worn,they cannot be exchanged for new ones.

I was asked to see why a S.B. of similar vintage would no longer do work. I found I could put a crow bar under the chuck and lift it 1/8" !!! The lathe was just worn smack out.

That lathe looks like it was not taken care of. Probably not oiled before every use,and probably you should pass it up. put a lever under the chuck and see if it will move up and down.

Then,the bed could also be worn out. If there is a  little vertical ridge atop the V way in front,that shows bad wear. The lathe will not turn true cylinders and will probably not face flat either.


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## rafe (Feb 17, 2014)

Looks like my 1947 and most likely from around that era, they were intended to run pretty much 24/7 all three shifts and with proper care they did and still do,
mine looked as rough as that but turned out it was in very nice shape,and will function well longer than I will I believe that the bearings are Bronze and are adjusted with shims. My main concern would be the ways, if they are not too bad you can still get great accuracy. Research the south bend on yahoo groups it will help with your decision .....I am really happy I have the 14 1/2 I do use it a lot ......It's locomotive....My headstock tested within specification with a 1" bar chucked in it
protruding one foot and a dial indicator on the chuck. about 75 ft pounds out at the end of the bar straight up, you should see at least .001 I believe and any more than .002ish needs a shim removed....too tight needs a shim as it needs room for the oil that suspends the spindle ...the test for the rear bearing is the same. You are most likely going to have a slight ridge up near the headstock on the ways, you can work around it if it's not too bad


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 17, 2014)

My 49 10L has bronze bearings as well. I am not sure what year they went to bronze bearings.


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## fastback (Feb 18, 2014)

My 42 has the cast iron bearing surface.  It's still nice an tight and meets the spec.

Paul


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## rafe (Feb 18, 2014)

I was reading my manual again and the specs are a two foot bar  and .0007 -.001 .....sorry about that..
Might be able to date it with the serial numbers on the far right inner way
Let us know how you make out and what comes with it


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## george wilson (Feb 18, 2014)

Better do some research and see when they went to bronze bearings. In the unloved shape that lathe is in,I'd be very careful.


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