# Lathe Oiler Rebuild Advise Request



## Uglydog (Aug 30, 2016)

The auto oiler on the WWII era  lathe I'm rebuilding was dropped at some point damaging the apron and the auto oiler assembly. Many of the parts are missing, including the rack driven spur gear and the eccentric which pumps the OEM Bijur pump shown in the pic. This Bijur pump still works well when the plunger is pressed. However, I need to make the mechanism which presses the plunger. 

Near as I can tell these mechanical oilers came in two configurations. One was driven off the rack when the saddle traversed the length of the bed. Thus, if short work was being turned nothing got oiled. Alternatively, the other design was a hand crank. Thus, if the operator didn't occasionally spin the crank nothing got oiled. 

Regardless, of which I make, and install both will need an eccentric to push and release the plunger. 
I'm hoping for advise on a several things. 
A. First looking for advise on the design of the eccentric. The options which I envision are: 
1) A wafer of Round stock with an offset hole to accommodate a drive shaft. 
2) A ellipse.
3) A cam. Basically an ellipse with more of a point.

I think option 1) might be the easiest to make. However, I'm wondering if there are benefits to the 2) & #3 as they would release faster. But, I'm not sure if that is a benefit. If it is determined I should make 2) or 3), then I'll be looking for advise on how to make them.

B. Given my original description of features/benefits in the opening lines above, I'm leaning toward the hand crank, and am wondering if anyone has strong opinions one way or the other. I believe that once I get the eccentric figured out, both of these design options are very doable.

Thanks for any/all advise!!
No that is not my braze work holding the apron together. 

Daryl
MN


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## cathead (Sep 2, 2016)

A cam would have better pumping action.  How about taking an old scrap camshaft and cutting off a lobe?  I would guess
one could use a grinder to take off the hard surface and then use a hack saw or metal band saw to excise your part.


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## Randall Marx (Sep 2, 2016)

Many of the old mechanical fuel pumps I have seen were driven by another version of your first option. They used a circular eccentric to drive the pump arm. Those worked for many years and would likely work for as long as you need also.


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## 4GSR (Sep 2, 2016)

My Lodge & Shipley has the same oil pump in the apron.  It also has a shaft that sticks thru the apron to the operators side where there is a lever mounted to the shaft for hand operation of the oil pump. I agree too using a cam to operate the pump.

You could buy one of those electric pumps to take the place of the old mechanical pump like I did on my lathe.  Of course, it's only set up to lubricate the ways.  Still use the mechanical pump to lubricate the apron.

EDIT: Here's some pictures of the one on my L & S lathe.


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## Uglydog (Sep 4, 2016)

Sorry about the delayed response.
My wife and I went to a threshing show: http://www.rollag.com/
4gsr, I sure hope you didn't tear her down to hlp me with my oiler.
I'll do some trial/error work tomorrow 9/5 and report back.

I had intended to keep this 16" Boye for a very long time.
Good or Bad, I stumbled on a Clausing Colchester 15inch, mint condition at an extremely hot price.
When I get the Boye running I'll need to sell her to make space.
I never imagined me having me a machine newer than 1960!

Daryl
MN


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## 4GSR (Sep 4, 2016)

Daryl,

Don't worry, those pictures were taken in 2008 when I first started the rebuild of the L & S.

Ken


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