# Just picked up a BP



## alloy

New here.  Saw a low of good information here so I joined up. I picked up a Bridgeport step pulley this week for $1300.  Got it out of a paper bag company that used it for machine maintenance.  It was very dirty, I looked at the base and remember thinking don't all Bridgeport's have holes in the base to mount then to the floor????  Well it does, just had to get through the 1" of grease and grime to find them.  The plant has a guy that walks around and every four hours lubes every machine in the plant. Didn't matter if it wasn't a constant use machine or not. so that's about 99% of the reason there was so much grime on it.  But on the other hand that's what kept it in such great condition.  

The machine is in great shape, just not wild about the green brushed on paint on it.  The company bought it new in 62 and painted it the same day they got it.  Everything in the plant is green.   I only found a couple of small problems on it.  No bad for a 52 year old machine.  I got it home and have started cleaning it.  Boy what a chore that is. First I bought some Simple Green heavy duty cleaner.  It didn't do squat. I scrubbed for 3 hours with it and just moved the grease around some. Then my girlfriend walked out and tried some Awesome cleaner from Dollar Tree on it.  In 10 mins she did more than I did in three hours and with a $1 bottle of stuff verses a $14 jug of Simple Green. I went and bought 4 bottles of the Awesome stuff. 

I have a lot of the grime knocked off now. I'm working on the base now. My biggest concern is on the base, what can I use to get the oils out of it so it won't leach out and ruin the paint I put on it?   On the smaller parts I'm running them through the hot parts washer at work and then bead blasting them in my cabinet at home.  I picked up a swivel base awhile back at an estate sale for $10. It was under a bench and was so rusty they didn't even bother to price it. I threw it in my bead blaster last night and put some primer and paint on it.  Looks pretty good compared to what it was. Now I'm going to do the same thing to a Kurt vise I have. 

So any ideas anyone has on getting the final prep done on the base would be appreciated.


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## chuckorlando

Nice find. Does the power feed work? I have more or less the same machine. Mine was built in 59. Still cutting just fine for me. My powerfeed is missing the motor unfortunately. That should make you plenty happy man


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## bvd1940

First if you picked up that BP I dont want to get you mad at me:nono:
"So any ideas anyone has on getting the final prep done on the base would be appreciated."
You should skid that BP and ship it to me post haste:roflmao:
I cant find anything like that without at the minimum of 1000 mile drive one way:thinking:
There is a ton of info on all phases of rebuild, repair, CNC conversion on this site and Google, search Bridgeport & start reading.
Good luck
PS I used to live in your town till 95 when I retired from the Camas mill.


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## alloy

Yes it does work.  I had them move the machine and we plugged it in.  It's very quite, I was amazed at how good a condition it was in considering how it looks.

And funny thing you should mention your power feed doesn't work.  I found this on Craigslist last night. Might be just what you need.

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/tls/4550439079.html


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## alloy

Won't get mad t you, just counting myself lucky   But luck is about 95% hard work I've found.  I was on my phone 10 times a day looking for a mill.  It was on 28 minutes before I saw it and I was the second one that called.  The guy at the plant said the other guy is on the way to get it.  I said save my number please just in case.  So.......the day went by and I figured I'd lost it.  Then at 8 the next morning I got a voice mail saying it was mine if I wanted it.  I called him back and said I was on my way.  I could hear the doubt in his voice.  After all one guy flaked on him. He did say there were 4 others in line behind me.  One offered him $1500.  He told him pay the company $1300 and pocket the other $200.  To his credit he was an honest man, and he said I sounded like a nice guy.

I've been reading a lot of the posts on Bridgeport an found some amazing work done by people here. I just haven't found one that specifies what to use for a final prep to get the oils out of the casting.  One I power it up I don' want to have to strip the paint off and redo it.

I'm looking at a VFD to power it.  I talked to Wolf Automation and they have one that has a remote keypad so I can just have the pad at the mill and the VFD on the wall.  But I guess I'd like the more traditional forward, off, reverse switch and one beside it for the speed control. I'm a CNC guy, not an electrician so I'd like to just buy a setup the way I want it an not not have to wire it and maybe blow something up in the process.  

And, this wasn't a 1000 miles from you, was in Canby Oregon..............you need to get on Craigslist more often.  Or were you the guy that offered $1500 for it????  )





bvd1940 said:


> First if you picked up that BP I dont want to get you mad at me:nono:
> "So any ideas anyone has on getting the final prep done on the base would be appreciated."
> You should skid that BP and ship it to me post haste:roflmao:
> I cant find anything like that without at the minimum of 1000 mile drive one way:thinking:
> There is a ton of info on all phases of rebuild, repair, CNC conversion on this site and Google, search Bridgeport & start reading.
> Good luck
> PS I used to live in your town till 95 when I retired from the Camas mill.


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## Andre

My BP is green also.....was green paint hazardous back in the day and they had to get rid of it somehow? I don't know......LOL

Nice machine, good luck on the cleanup.  

This video might help. Skip towards the end. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYxgT2a-1e4


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## chuckorlando

Mine was also green at some point in time ahaha


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## David

Nice mill!  When I rebuilt my 1958, I scrubbed, wiped, scrubbed and wiped some more. In the end, I had to take it down to bare metal to stop the bleed through.  Just not sure if you can paint a base with the oil absorbed filler and make it stick. Good luck!


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## alloy

I think that green was in abundance in the plant where the mill was.  Or they got a great deal on 1000 gallons of green paint 

I'm making some progress, but I've ran out of steam for today, and I have to be up at 4:30 for work tomorrow.

Got a lot done on the base, here are before and after pics.  I'm petty much down to bare metal on the base bottom.  I also did some work on my vise. I can't finish it because the sliding nut is just too greasy to to clean here at home. I will take it to work tomorrow and put it in the hot parts washer.

I bought some high build primer to use on the base.  But I'm going to wait on using it until I get the rest of the machine cleaned up.  All the dirt falls to the bottom and I don't want to have to strip my primer off because it got full of grease.  

I also just found out my power feed motor is 3 phase.  I was afraid of that. I don't really need a power feed as 90% of what I do is modify transmission tail housings and there isn't much milling involved. If someone here has a non power feed x axis lead screw I'll gladly swap my feed and lead screw for a non power lead screw.  Otherwise my power feed is just going to go along for the ride and never be used.


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## chuckorlando

Dont take any more then you need to down to cast. It gets pretty rough . The guy I got mine from used a grinder on just enough to make me strip the whole deal to cast. Then you gotta play body man


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## alloy

I had no choice on the base to go to bare metal, once I got the grease off there wasn't much paint left.  Just spots of paint that were raised and needed to be knocked down. Most of the original paint was gone.  And yes I will have to get some bondo and work on the bottom of the base.  But I can't spend a ton of time on this, it has to go to work for me soon.

  I'd love to take it completely apart and clean and paint each part individually, but can't.  I've been using a friends mill and my business is taking off.  I just added a new product and it has the potential to increase my sales 90% or more.  I've been modding the parts Friday and Saturday's, but I need to be able to do them here after work, and he closes his shop an hour after I get off work so can't do much during the week.

I wonder if there is some kind of sealer that might help on the base?


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## Bill C.

alloy said:


> New here.  Saw a low of good information here so I joined up. I picked up a Bridgeport step pulley this week for $1300.  Got it out of a paper bag company that used it for machine maintenance.  It was very dirty, I looked at the base and remember thinking don't all Bridgeport's have holes in the base to mount then to the floor????  Well it does, just had to get through the 1" of grease and grime to find them.  The plant has a guy that walks around and every four hours lubes every machine in the plant. Didn't matter if it wasn't a constant use machine or not. so that's about 99% of the reason there was so much grime on it.  But on the other hand that's what kept it in such great condition.
> 
> The machine is in great shape, just not wild about the green brushed on paint on it.  The company bought it new in 62 and painted it the same day they got it.  Everything in the plant is green.   I only found a couple of small problems on it.  No bad for a 52 year old machine.  I got it home and have started cleaning it.  Boy what a chore that is. First I bought some Simple Green heavy duty cleaner.  It didn't do squat. I scrubbed for 3 hours with it and just moved the grease around some. Then my girlfriend walked out and tried some Awesome cleaner from Dollar Tree on it.  In 10 mins she did more than I did in three hours and with a $1 bottle of stuff verses a $14 jug of Simple Green. I went and bought 4 bottles of the Awesome stuff.
> 
> I have a lot of the grime knocked off now. I'm working on the base now. My biggest concern is on the base, what can I use to get the oils out of it so it won't leach out and ruin the paint I put on it?   On the smaller parts I'm running them through the hot parts washer at work and then bead blasting them in my cabinet at home.  I picked up a swivel base awhile back at an estate sale for $10. It was under a bench and was so rusty they didn't even bother to price it. I threw it in my bead blaster last night and put some primer and paint on it.  Looks pretty good compared to what it was. Now I'm going to do the same thing to a Kurt vise I have.
> 
> So any ideas anyone has on getting the final prep done on the base would be appreciated.
> 
> View attachment 79728
> View attachment 79729
> View attachment 79730
> View attachment 79731
> View attachment 79732



You may need a pressure washer to cut the grease.  BP usually are painted a light gray.  Nice find.


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## RandyM

YUP, she's a beauty. Just keep the updates coming. And thank you for posting your find.


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## zmotorsports

Nice find and welcome to the forum.  Keep the pics coming of your restoration.

Mike.


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## alloy

Well I'm not sure if I'd call it a restoration, more like a beatification 

Got a little more done today. Took a few parts in and ran them through  the hot parts washer.  It's a great way to remove the green paint, wish I  could put the entire machine in and clean it that way.

I also found my oil feed line was crushed.  I thought I'd just stop by  Autozone and grab some copper line and a couple of ferrules on my way  home.  Well that was the plan, got there and asked the kid for copper line  like is used in an oil pressure gauge.  He said...............oil gauges  use sending units and not copper line. I asked is there was someone  older there and he said no.  I left and went down the street to a mom  and pop parts store and they asked how much line I needed and how many  ferrules.  Should have went there in the first place. 

I'm not going to get much done this week, I only have after work  tomorrow and Wednesday.  Thursday I'm going to a swap meet in Spokane  for the weekend to try and spread the word about my business.

I am going to try and order a VFD tomorrow.  I really like this one. http://www.electricmotorwholesale.com/9630F-KBAC-24DF.htm


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## drs23

Yea! for access to a hot tank/parts washer. Really makes it a lot less labor intensive.

Boo! for the nasty looking kink in the oil line. Glad you were able to suss replacement line(s).

When you were chatting with Jr. @ AutoZone all I could do was picture the Rock Auto commercial where the kid at the computer says: "Maybe we get it from the warehouse." The incompetence today just slays me.

/rant


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## dave2176

alloy said:


> I asked is there was someone  older there and he said no.  I left and went down the street to a mom  and pop parts store



I get so tired of Jr. at the store telling me how the world works. I love that bumper sticker that says "Hire a teenager while they still know everything." 
Love the machine btw.
Dave


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## alloy

Now at Autozone they ask you what are you working on when you walk in. 

I missed the oppertunity to say........ a Bridgeport. Love to see him try to look that one up on his computer 

Thanks everyone for the nice comments and likes on my thread.


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## alloy

I found this on Ebay.  I read that the seller is very helpful and has really good feedback.  

At first I thought why do I need the K axis readout, but then realized I'm constantly moving the knee up and down doing my trans conversions and the extra readout would be very helpful.

Anyone here us this brand of DRO or have personal experience with this seller?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/231135159329?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


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## drs23

alloy said:


> I found this on Ebay.  I read that the seller is very helpful and has really good feedback.
> 
> At first I thought why do I need the K axis readout, but then realized I'm constantly moving the knee up and down doing my trans conversions and the extra readout would be very helpful.
> 
> Anyone here us this brand of DRO or have personal experience with this seller?
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/231135159329?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT



Alloy,

Yes, I have that exact 4 axis DRO on my Birmingham mill. It's all Tpack says it is and has performed flawlessly. Like any other DRO you're going to have to fab some of your own brackets as well as the chip shield for the Z, but not a biggie really. My machinist buddy laughs at me but I really dig the calculator function. I use it ALL THE TIME! It has all the bells and whistles of the high dollar units and in the hands of a capable operator (not so much me yet) it will do it all. I've mic'd and measured by digital calipers and the numbers are spot on. I believe that coincides with attention to detail on initial installation.

I can highly recommend this product and supplier by personal experience.

Almost forgot; when I first purchased my unit the "K" scale and reader was on backorder and wasn't expected for several months. I didn't throw a hissy or anything and a few days later, it shows up, he'd gotten it from a competitor (different brand markings, same thing) in order to take care of me. After he'd credited me for having not received it. When he saw it had been signed for, he rebilled. 

Could not be more pleased.

Hope that helps.

Dale


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## JimDawson

I find that having the K readout is very helpful in setups and tends to speed up the process quite a bit.  I don't know anything about the that vendor.


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## alloy

I use my coaxx indicator a lot and I'm always lowering the knee to use it, then coming back up so I can keep the quill retracted as far as possible for rigidity. So I think it would be a time saver for me.

I did find a thread here about the same DRO with someone asking about it, but there was no follow up on whether he bought it or not. I did post to that thread asking if he did get it, but no response yet. I did see someone asking that if he did get it do a write up about the install. I just may do that if I end up going with that unit. 

I also found the eBay vendors web page and buying it directly from him saves $20, and that just means I can buy more stuff for the mill


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## Millalot

alloy said:


> I use my coaxx indicator a lot and I'm always lowering the knee to use it, then coming back up so I can keep the quill retracted as far as possible for rigidity. So I think it would be a time saver for me.
> 
> I did find a thread here about the same DRO with someone asking about it, but there was no follow up on whether he bought it or not. I did post to that thread asking if he did get it, but no response yet. I did see someone asking that if he did get it do a write up about the install. I just may do that if I end up going with that unit.
> 
> I also found the eBay vendors web page and buying it directly from him saves $20, and that just means I can buy more stuff for the mill



That is a good buy for a 4 scale readout, It looks like the generic Chinese readout, I have a similar one ordered from China the quality is excellent for the price.
The dealer looks to be good one his postage to Australia is only $52 which is very fair.
The quill scale is awkward to install as he said regarding the size of same I am fitting an Mitutoyo thin capacitive scale on my mill with separate readout, but the readout on the scale is perfectly adequate if so desired.


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## alloy

Dale, thanks for the pm. No I didn't see your post, I'm on my phone now and the entire thread isn't loading for me. I borrowed my girlfriends computer and now I see it. 

I'm glad you're happy with the DRO. Based in your and Millsalot's recommendation I just ordered the DROp directly from TPAC. 

Did you do a post on your install?  I would be very interested in seeing it if you did.


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## alloy

Well finally got home today and after talking to over a hundred people about my conversions I needed to get away and unwind.  So I spent a few hours cleaning and sanding and decided to put a little paint on the ram.  Seems like I've been cleaning and sanding forever and I wanted to see at least some paint on it.  Guess I needed some instant gratification to keep me going and just get rid on some of the ugly green.


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## drs23

Progress is progress. What's done is looking good. Keep it up!

Got your TPac DRO ordered yet?


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## alloy

Yes I did get the DRO ordered. Got a ship notification for it and a link for tracking but the link is bad. Also got a ship notice on the Hatachi VFD. Should be here either Friday or Monday. Hopefully it will be Friday, I would like to get power to it as soon as I can. I need to make the Z axis scale mount. I can do it at my friends shop, but it would be so much easier to do it at home. 

Another member here has generously offered to help me wire it up with the switches like I want. It's a bit of a drive to him, but it's worth it knowing it will be done safely and correctly. 

I took some pics of the Z axis scale mounts on our Bridgeport here at work that has a Acu-rite on it. Looks like the scale is longer than needed just like the one I bought. So I'm going to try and pattern my mounts on what they did. I'm sure I will have to customize the mounts to the different brand of scale and to put my own custom touch on it, but at least I have a good idea where to start. 

Boy I hate being at work now, rather be home playing with my toy instead of reading and correcting programs and making parts for someone else


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## alloy

Millalot said:


> The dealer looks to be good one his postage to Australia is only $52 which is very fair.



I just looked at the Fed-X tracking info and it says my package is 30lbs.  So $52 to Australia is way under his cost.  I ship transmissions housings to Australia that are 12 lbs and it's between $125 and $135.  

For my shipment there is no way he can ship 30lbs to me for $10.  So He's not out to make his last dollar off us. Nice to find somone like that. They are few and far between these days.

I really look forward to getting this unit.  I've told several at work about it and they are very interested in seeing it.

Anyone know if I can get a new one of these tags?  My goal is to get rid of every trace of green and red paint on the machine, and I tried gently using 
acetone to get the green off the plate, but it just faded the black and didn't touch the green.  I've searched a little trying to find it, but so far no luck.

.


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## RandyM

alloy said:


> Anyone know if I can get a new one of these tags?  My goal is to get rid of every trace of green and red paint on the machine, and I tried gently using
> acetone to get the green off the plate, but it just faded the black and didn't touch the green.  I've searched a little trying to find it, but so far no luck.
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 80185



I think that tag is a tough one to find new. But, there is good news, you can restore it your self. These tags have raised text and you can restore it just like the factory makes them. Here is how you do it.

1) Strip all of the paint off of the tag with a stripper or as in your case acetone will work just fine.
2) Spray the tag with your choice of black and let it dry throuoghly. Be sure to keep the paint coverage as light as possible but yet get full coverage.
3) Be absolutely sure the paint is dry. Now with very fine grit (1000+) using a flat hard surface as backing for the sandpaper sand the high spots off.
4) Good as new.
The worst that will happen is it may take you a couple of tries to get it right.

Good luck.


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## alloy

Thanks for the tip.  I will give it a try a little later.  The paint on the tag will bug me until I do something about it.

A few toys came in, and picked up a couple of handy little gadgets also.   I got the quick adjust feed handle and fast quill adjust nut from a  guy closing out his shop.  I traded him my parts and took them off his  mill and put mine on.  He said the mill wouldn't sell for any less with  my regular stuff on it.  Got them for $20 and two trips there and back.   Not sure why he sold them to me like that, but why ask why???  Guess he  needed the $20.

My VFD and DRO came in yesterday and today.  I thought the VFD would be  bigger for some reason.  The DRO is impressive. The feel on the buttons  is just like the expensive Acu-Rite at work.  And the scales have  armored cables and aluminum guards that go over them to protect them.  I  haven't unpacked it all yet,  but it's hard to believe the quality for  $575. The readout has a nice clear plastic cover to keep it clean, and  there is an assortment of universal style mounting brackets also.

I've got paint on the head finally.  And I pulled the cover off the top  of the spindle motor.  The cover is more than just a cover, it's a  bearing retainer also.  I wanted to see what it was because I'm thinking  of putting an electric fan on top of the motor so when I have the speed  dialed down with the VFD I will still have some cooling on the motor.   But the way it's set up I'm not sure how I'm going to be able to do  that.  I'm still thinking about it, haven't given up on that idea just  yet.

Well got to get back to it. It's not getting done with me sitting here on this computer.


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## chips&more

Yes, the machine tags are sometimes an easy restoration. But to get them off is another story. Most of the time they are attached with drive screw fasteners/twist rivets. And those things are not intended to be removable. If you are not careful you can damage the tag in your removal process. I have tried a Dremel with an abrasive disc, worked kinda OK. But lately have found TIG welding a piece of metal on top of the rivet head so you can grab it better works the best for me. This is TIG welding small stuff, you may what to practice first! And try and remove the fastener just after you have welded the thing so it’s all nice and hot. And yes, with this technique, the paint will burn in your welding areas, so keep that in mind...Good Luck.


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## alloy

My welding skills are at best pathetic, so I may just have to live with it.  I will try a q tip and see if I can get some of the green off the tag.

Go more paint on it today.  The head is painted now along with the ram.  Now I'm working on the column and base. I need to get some filler to fill the deep grinding makes on the base. 



Dale, 

What did you do for the Z axis scale mounts?  I'd love to see what you came up with.  I don't need to reinvent the wheel, so if you happen to have pics of your install that would be very helpful and give me a starting point.


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## frostheave

View attachment 79731
View attachment 79732

	

		
			
		

		
	
[/QUOTE]

Hi alloy,

You are doing a great job!  I have to ask about your Kurt swivel base.  It was SO rusty before.  How in the heck did you get it SO clean?  You did a really amazing job!  The divisions and numbers are SO clear.  Can you share any of your secrets?  Thanks, Bob.


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## alloy

I used my glass bead cabinet.  It was a siphon feed sandblaster, but I added a Harbor Fright pressure blaster and converted it to a pressure blaster.  

Works pretty well.  You have to stop and refill the pressure pot, but it's way faster than when it was  siphon feed setup.


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## hvontres

What size motor does your machine have? I wound up putting a 1.5 KW hitachi on my J2 and it works great  Let me know if you need any help with programing or hooking it up. I went for a three-wire setup with Jog button for tapping and it works pretty good. One thing I HIGHLY reccomend is a braking resistor. I put one on mine after a couple of months and went from waiting ~30-40s for the spindle to stop down to 4-5s. The resistor will help keep the DC voltage inside the drive from getting too high during deceleration.

Another cool thing about the three wire setup is the ability to reverse the spindle just by changing the switch. The drive decelerates to a stop and then reverses, also great for tapping.


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## alloy

It has a 1 hp motor, 4.2 amps.  I got this VFD off Ebay and the description says is comes with the braking resistor installed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331047068188?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


rdhem2 (Russ) kindly offered to help me wire it up.  I bought a new rotary switch and picked up a potentiometer from Radio Shack, and Russ has a E-Stop switch.  I've never needed to use an E-Stop on a manual, but it sure couldn't hurt to have it.

So is there a different braking resistor that I can put in the VFD, or is the one in it going to be able to slow the motor down?  I will probably need help with programming after I get it up and running.  For now I just want to finish the sanding and painting and get power to it and start making my Z axis scale mounts.  I'm s tired of sanding, but another day or so and it will be done. I got some bondo last night at Walmart to try and fill the deep grinding marks on the base.  I don't need much, just a skim coat.

Does anyone know how to get the knee shaft handle out? I pulled the handle off it, but the shaft turns just a little then stops. I'd like to be able to get it out and sand around the handle before painting.

I found this write up on a rebuild, it helps, but noting on removing the locking shaft.  Not found of the yellow in the pics, not as bad as the green on mine, but the color sure grabs your attention 

http://neme-s.org/Shaper Books/bridgeport_j1_head_2_0_01 Rebuild.pdf


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## JimDawson

The installed breaking resistor should do the job.  It really depends on how fast you want to stop the motor.  I think I have mine set for about 2 seconds.  If you set the decel too low, it will trip the drive out no matter what resistor you use, and the resistor value is limited by the amount of power the breaking transistors will take.

When deceling the motor becomes a generator, and dumps power back to the DC bus on the VFD.  The breaking transistors will only handle so much power, and when the DC bus voltage goes too high, the drive will trip out to save it's self, and the motor will then coast to a stop.


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## frostheave

alloy said:


> I used my glass bead cabinet.  It was a siphon feed sandblaster, but I added a Harbor Fright pressure blaster and converted it to a pressure blaster.
> 
> Works pretty well.  You have to stop and refill the pressure pot, but it's way faster than when it was  siphon feed setup.



Thanks for the info alloy.  I looked at the pressure blasters on the HF website.  They are sized from 20 lb. to 110 lb.  I guess the advantage of the larger ones is less time spent refilling.  They look like a good way to go.  Did you use any special blast media or just regular glass beads?  Do you use a certain grit for everything or switch depending on the job at hand?  Thanks!

Bob


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## alloy

I goth the 80lb unit at HF. At the time I didn't want the 110lb one, but now I wish I'd have gotten it.  One word of advise, DO NOT get the HF blast cabinet.  It's the biggest piece of junk I've ever seen. I spent two days putting it together and trying to seal it up from leaking.  And All I got for my efforts was something that even when converted to a pressure blast setup was terrible.  The light is a joke, the vent setup sucks all your media out with the vacuum.  I finally (and thankfully) got $75 out of it.  Good riddens.  I picked up a commercial siphon cabinet and gave it a try. Even with my 18 cubic foot two stage compressor it was painfully slow. So I took the foot pedal off, ran my hose from my HF pressure pot and never looked back.  I'm very happy with how it performs.  

Her are pics of the glass beads I use. As I understand they aren't the finest grade, just a middle grade that cuts faster and gives a much nicer finish than the fine ones I was using.  One some of the small prts like handles and nuts, bolt head I'm using a wire wheel on my bench grinder.  Works pretty fast.  You can see on the handle how it takes it off. I did this handle in about 2-3 minutes. I could have blasted them, but that would have taken much longer.

I got some primer on the column today, still have to do the bodywork on the base, get the knee sanded and primed.  Then comes the power feed and motor. That's not going to be much fun.  I'd like to take it off all together, but from what I read the lead screw is longer for this type of power feed. I will have no power to it, it's also 3 phase and it's just not worth it to me to buy a VFD for the feed unit.


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## drs23

Dan,

Here are the photos of my Z install we were PMing about.

Top view:





Corner profile:





Top corner:





Blurry side view:





And my temporary swarf shield (need to find time to make a real one):





Here's a top and bottom of the K (quill):









I just installed the K and am having issues getting it to repeatedly return to Zero. Installer error I'm sure but I installed the rest of them and they repeat very well. Kinda stumped on this one.

Dale


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## alloy

Thanks for the pics.  They really help. Do you happen to have one from the other side of the Z axis scale?  I'm curious to see how you hooked it to the quill.

It will be later this week before I start installing my DRO.  I will do X, Y, and K first, and use the mill and the digital to make the Z axis mounts.  I will let you know if I have a problem with K.  I have to finish the paint on it first before I  get involved with anything else on it.

Tomorrow I'm driving to Yakima to see Russ and get my VFD set up.  That will pretty much take my entire up day tomorrow, but it's worth it to have it set up safely and how I want the switches.


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## drs23

alloy said:


> Thanks for the pics.  They really help. Do you happen to have one from the other side of the Z axis scale?  I'm curious to see how you hooked it to the quill.
> 
> It will be later this week before I start installing my DRO.  I will do X, Y, and K first, and use the mill and the digital to make the Z axis mounts.  I will let you know if I have a problem with K.  I have to finish the paint on it first before I  get involved with anything else on it.
> 
> Tomorrow I'm driving to Yakima to see Russ and get my VFD set up.  That will pretty much take my entire up day tomorrow, but it's worth it to have it set up safely and how I want the switches.



I can get them Monday. I was stealthy enough to sneak away from Baby Girl's BD party before everyone started showing up but I think they'd miss the cook about now. ;^)


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## alloy

Any time you get them is fine.  I really appreciate all the help every one has been to me here.

Besides, a baby girl's Bday party is waaaaay more important than any old Bridgeport is )


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## alloy

Well I just had to change direction on on my project.  I found this.  The casting is cracked where the Y axis lock handle goes.  I use the the locks all the time when I do my transmissio mods.  I can't see any other way to fix this other than pulling the table and saddle off and having it welded up. If I leave it, it will eventually break right in the middle of a job and them I'm screwed. So...............here we go. I guess I roll the tool box over and start taking things apart.

But on the bright side it will make cleaning and painting the saddle much easier once it's off :-(


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## alloy

Well the table and saddle wasn't that hard to get off.  I was surprised how clean it was under the table.

I did find an old repair on the X axis lead screw adjusting bolt.  Looks like a good repair.

I know nothing about welding cast iron.  Anyone give me any advise on how this will need to be welded?


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## JimDawson

There is a shop in Clackamas that can do this.  I have had him weld up stamping die parts, seems to do a good job.  I'll have to get back to you on the name, I need to ask the shop that I do some tool & die work for, I didn't deal with the guy directly.  I won't be able to check until Monday.


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## JimDawson

alloy said:


> Thanks for the pics.  They really help. Do you happen to have one from the other side of the Z axis scale?  I'm curious to see how you hooked it to the quill.
> 
> It will be later this week before I start installing my DRO.  I will do X, Y, and K first, and use the mill and the digital to make the Z axis mounts.  I will let you know if I have a problem with K.  I have to finish the paint on it first before I  get involved with anything else on it.
> 
> Tomorrow I'm driving to Yakima to see Russ and get my VFD set up.  That will pretty much take my entire up day tomorrow, but it's worth it to have it set up safely and how I want the switches.




Here is what I did for my z scale connection to the reader head.  I just built a new quill stop.  My system is completely different than yours but the same principal still applies.  I would also try to move the scale up as high on the head as possible, just to get it out of the way.
  If your interested in seeing more:  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=21060&p=183002&viewfull=1#post183002


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## alloy

JimDawson said:


> There is a shop in Clackamas that can do this.  I  have had him weld up stamping die parts, seems to do a good job.  I'll  have to get back to you on the name, I need to ask the shop that I do  some tool & die work for, I didn't deal with the guy directly.  I  won't be able to check until Monday.



I would really appreciate the name of the place. We have parts welded at work, bu I  think they go to Bend to this one shop that does our fly away parts.  





JimDawson said:


> Here is what I did for my z  scale connection to the reader head.  I just built a new quill stop.  My  system is completely different than yours but the same principal still  applies.  I would also try to move the scale up as high on the head as  possible, just to get it out of the way.
> If your interested in seeing more:  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=21060&p=183002&viewfull=1#post183002
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's some amazing work you do.  I never thought of making a new  quill stop.  I had envisioned a part that partially wraps around the  quill stop and is bolted to it.  Kind of like this one.
Click to expand...


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## JimDawson

Thank you.  Either way would work fine.  Interestingly, I didn't even think about how to attach the reader to the existing quill stop, I just designed a new one to do what I wanted.


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## JimDawson

Another idea on your Y-axis lock.  I might be tempted to mill out the existing broken material and then make a steel plug that could be brazed in with nickle bronze.  I think that would be much stronger than the original material.  From your posts, I take it that you have access to a machine shop.  If needed we could do it in my mill.


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## frostheave

View attachment 80580


Thanks for the blasting info alloy.  It will be a great help.  Thanks also for the heads up on the HF blast cabinet.  HF sure is hit and miss, depending on what one needs!  Also, good luck on the y-axis lock repair.  I tend to agree with Jim's repair suggestion of the brazed plug.  Very strong and a relatively easy solution.

Bob


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## chuckorlando

I have both the hf pressure pot and the larger cab. Both work just fine for me. The hose in the cab sucks. It likes to kink or collapse. Other then that mine works pretty well. If it's something really tough I use the PP. It just seems to have a bit more kick. But it is a super mess. I run straight play ground sand out doors when using it because of material loss. Full white suit and head gear and a respirator. It's a fricking mess in the open with no vac to pull the dust


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## alloy

JimDawson said:


> Another idea on your Y-axis lock.  I might be tempted to mill out the existing broken material and then make a steel plug that could be brazed in with nickle bronze.  I think that would be much stronger than the original material.  From your posts, I take it that you have access to a machine shop.  If needed we could do it in my mill.



Yes I do have access to manual machines, but it's hit and miss.  I run VMC's all day, and engineering always has a hot new project they are working on with the manual machines.  I had been thinking about a solution that involved machining only since I have no welding equipment, but really didn't come up with anything.

I do like your idea of making it stronger. I don't think welding up the casting will never make it as strong as it was originally. What plug material will be compatible with the nickle bronze rod?


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## JimDawson

alloy said:


> .
> 
> I do like your idea of making it stronger. I don't think welding up the casting will never make it as strong as it was originally. What plug material will be compatible with the nickle bronze rod?




Just about any steel would work fine, 1018 maybe?  Stay away from the leaded steels like 10L12


EDIT:

Another idea that doesn't require any welding is to make a plug as I described above, but rather than welding it in, extend it a bit deeper and thread the casting.  Then just screw the plug in and secure with some red Locktite.  This assumes there there is enough meat in the casting to do this.


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## alloy

I thought about the plug idea but there isn't much material in that area to do that.

I was thinking mill out an area like I've marked in the pic, and bolt a plate in and the plate and bolts would take the load and not the casting.  

If I do it right and use a little filler and cover up the bolt heads and parting line you will never see it.


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## JimDawson

Great idea.  I like it.


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## alloy

Well got a little done this week.  Hard to do much getting up at 4:30 and working 10 hour days.  I'm beat after work.

Go  some paint on the head and ram.  Yes.............I know the motor is  still green. Will work on that this weekend. Tomorrow I will work on  fixing the crack in the saddle.  I will try and post pics of that.


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## JimDawson

Wow, that's starting to look like a Bridgeport again, rather than a Leprechaun.:thumbzup3:

BTW, it turned out that the shop I was going to recommend for the welding doesn't do cast iron, but I think you have a much better idea anyway.


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## alloy

Everyone I talked to said they needed to heat up the casting to weld it, and I don't want to try and remove the oil lines and try to replace them. The pressed in fittings in the table nut don't look like they were made to be removed. And I've not seen anything anywhere on replacing the lines. And I really think the way I am going to do it is much stronger than any repair could ever be, and cheaper also. And if I ever need to replace the repair plate it's easy to duplicate.


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## alloy

Got the saddle repaired today.  Made the plate and bolted it on and  used some dye and a scribe to get the rough outline and milled away as  much as I could.  Then I bolted the plate back on and used a die grinder  and my belt sander to get  it to match the profile of the saddle. I  used a transfer punch in the table lock rod hole to get my location to  drill and tap the hole for the lock handle.  

Came out pretty well I  think. Hopefully if someone else has the same problem this will help them.


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## frostheave

View attachment 80903


That looks like a great repair Alloy.  Probably stronger than original.  Nicely done!

Bob


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## zmotorsports

Fantastic looking repair there.  That should hold up very well.

Mike.


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## drs23

Great repair Dan, very impressive. Shouldn't have to be concerned about that issue ever again. Really nice work, Sir.


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## alloy

Thanks everyone. Your comments keep me going 

I had a "request" to post more pics.  So, here is the base of the machine before, and now.  I think when I'm done I will text pics to the guy I bought it from.

I was hoping to get the table back on today but am running out of time. My GF gets home soon and she says she feels like a Bridgeport widow. So have to spend some time with her tonight. Take her to dinner at our favorite restaurant. 

All I have left to sand and paint is the motor and the power feed.  Saved the best (wost) parts for last.................

There is a guy locally selling a table and lead screw. He said he's willing to sell the screw for $100.  I know I need a bearing bracket but not sure what else to take the power feed off.  It's 3 phase and I'm not planning to buy another VFD to power it.


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## drs23

alloy said:


> Thanks everyone. You comments keep me going
> 
> I had a "request" to post more pics.  So, here is the base of the machine before, and now.  I think when I'm done I will text pics to the guy I bought it from.
> 
> I was hoping to get the table back on today but am running out of time. My GF gets home soon and she says she feels like a Bridgeport widow. So have to spend some time with her tonight. Take her to dinner at our favorite restaurant.
> 
> All I have left to sand and paint is the motor and the power feed.  Saved the best (wost) parts for last.................
> 
> There is a guy locally selling a table and lead screw. He said he's willing to sell the screw for $100.  I know I need a bearing bracket but not sure what else to take the power feed off.  It's 3 phase and I'm not planning to buy another VFD to power it.
> 
> View attachment 80936
> View attachment 80937



What a difference! Looking Great!


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## alloy

Got more done.  The cleaning and painting is finally done. A little touch up here and there, but glad it's finished.  The power feed was a chore to get in all the nooks and crannies.





Started installing the DRO. Got Y and X scales installed.  Started off with the first pic for my Y bracket, and the second pic is the finished part. The brackets that came with the DRO are useless. It was easier to make my own.  






I used bolts and large washers in the drain holes to temporarily clamp the X axis scale on place.  I'm glad I did, turns out I had the scale up too far.  I used a transfer punch to get my hole location to mount the reader head and this is where I was.  Had to move the scale down even with the bottom of the table so the bolt holes wouldn't break into the way surface on the saddle. You can see my two punch marks if you look closely.







After reading about power feeds I decided to just leave mine on and I bought a VFD for it off Ebay for $92 shipped. I was reading the PDF manual and I'm lost.  I guess I'll deal with that when the time comes. 



 I should get the other VFD hooked up and have the motor running this week some time.  I've started looking at the K axis scale mount. That's my next project after I get spindle power.


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## JimDawson

Looking good.  If you need some VFD help, I'll be happy to lend a hand.


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## Kroll

What an awesome thread alloy,and awesome responses from the members.I want to bookmark this thread cause I would like to do some of the same things your doing such as the VFD and the DRO which is kinda in my budget(depending on side work) to my BP which is still in the corner waiting.Love this thread,keep it coming----kroll


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## alloy

Thank you Kroll. I'm pretty surprised at the response I've gotten. I've even gotten PM's asking for more pics I've also made some awesome friends because of this thread. Many have offered help and I sincerely appreciate it. I hope I have the opportunity to give back to others here. But I do wonder what I will talk about when I'm done with this project? 

I will answer your PM later. I'm at work and can only write short responses.


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## alloy

It's alive!!!  I have power now   Thanks to some awesome people here   other wise I'd have never got the VFD figured out.  Russ, Jim,  Henry,Dale and more. If I've forgotten to mention you I apologize. I've  gotten many PM's and starting to forget who all I've talked to. I also  got to meet two really great people from here, Russ and Jim. Amazing   people both of them.  Thank you all so much for your help.  I'm not done  yet, but I have X and Y axis readouts, and power to the spindle.  

I drove over to Jim's yesterday to get some help with the small VFD for  the power feed.  He got it set up and it kept saying over current.  But I  ran the power feed when I looked at the mill???  So after more checking  he found one leg of the windings shorted out. I have no idea how it  ran.  We did find something odd in the on/off switch that had been added  to the feed.  One hot leg had the ground wire going to it, and it ran  that way.  I looked at that before I got there and decided I'll just  take the entire feed with me.  I'm glad I did.  So now I'm going to find  out what it might cost to have the motor rewound.  But in the mean time  I'll just put it on and use the mill without it.  

I still have the K and Z axis scales to put on.  I made Y axis table  stop today and put on. I didn't want to crush my scale by moving  the  table back to far.

Here is my stop.


And the control panel for the spindle.  I have an extra space up on the left. Not sure what to fill that space with 



And the odd wiring on the feed shutoff.  You can see on the left where  there are two wires to one terminal. One is the ground, the other a hot  lead. 


Here is the temporary home of the VFD.  




Everyone here has been fantastic to me.  If I can be of any help to anyone don't hesitate to ask


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## JimDawson

Your pictures didn't come through.

Happy to hear you have it running. :thumbsup:

Now we need pictures with chips flying


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## alloy

I think I just fixed that.  

Chips will fly soon. They would tonight, but my GF is dragging me to Bonneville tonight for some family thing.  Hope she isn't reading this forum :nervous:


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## alloy

Before


And now



Still need to get the K and Z axis scales mounted, but compared to what I've already done that will be a piece of cake


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## zmotorsports

That turned out very nice.  Congrats and kudos on a job well done.

Mike.


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## drs23

Good job Dan. Looks great. Well done and your efforts are apparent, that's for sure.


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## Millalot

alloy said:


> Got the saddle repaired today.  Made the plate and bolted it on and  used some dye and a scribe to get the rough outline and milled away as  much as I could.  Then I bolted the plate back on and used a die grinder  and my belt sander to get  it to match the profile of the saddle. I  used a transfer punch in the table lock rod hole to get my location to  drill and tap the hole for the lock handle.
> 
> Came out pretty well I  think. Hopefully if someone else has the same problem this will help them.
> 
> View attachment 80901
> View attachment 80902
> View attachment 80903



You have made a neat fit good job.
I have one small reservation it would have possibly been better if you had radiused the inside corner rather than the 90 deg finish in regards to crack propagation.
But I am being a bit picky and I hope it will serve you well.


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## alloy

Made  my first chips this weekend with the old girl.  Worked on he Z axis  scale mounts.  Got a lot done.  But I have a new problem.  My GF walked  up to me with an aluminum chip and said she picked it out of her foot.   Hmm.....................keep the GF or the Bridgeport.  Tough decision.   Have to think on that one a bit 

I decided to mount the  bottom of the Z scale even with the bottom of the housing to keep it out of harms way. This moved  the scale up a ways, but  everything worked out well.  I used 3/8" material  for the mounts. I wanted to keep the scale as close to the housing as possible. At work our BP with an Acu-rite the Z scale sits out at least an inch or more from the housing. It gets in the way at times.  I'm now working on the bracket to attach the scale reader head to the quill stop.  Almost done with it. I'll post pics later when  I'm finished.

I started working on my K axis scale install but  discovered I have about 16 3/4" of knee travel and the scale I got has 16.  I  really didn't want to try and make a stop to limit my travel on the  knee.  So I contacted TPAC tools and he' sending me a 20" scale. I have to say this guy is awesome. I sent him an email to him about it and in less than 5 mins he replied.  Great customer service.


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## alloy

Got my Z axis scale brackets done. I'm happy with how they came out.

Here is what I started with for the mount that goes on the quill stop.  And then the final product.

The bottom of the scale is even with the bottom of the housing out of harms way.  All I have left to do is dial the scale in.  I will tackle that this weekend.


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## JimDawson

That's a nice looking install.  Nice job on the quill adapter.


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## CoopVA

Looks great!  Fantastic job restoring it!



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## alloy

Thanks guys. I've enjoyed this project very much. 

Tomorrow the mill will start paying for itself. In the next week I have. $1000 worth of work coming in to put on it. I've got over $3000 in it, so nice to have some cash coming back from my investment. 

Funny, after doing this mill I keep looking for more deals. Like I really need more machines.


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## alloy

Been working on the K axis scale install and took vacation this week and finally got it done. K was the most challenging to install with the tapered and contoured base where the scale needs to be mounted.   I thought about trying to use some kind of shims to get the mounting bar to get it vertical and square and there was just no way I could see to do that.  So I settled on using a piece of 1/2" X 1 1/2" CRS and used 10/24 set screws as jack screws to get the bar vertical and square. I tried using the 3/8" aluminum mounting bar that came with the scale, but it just wasn't rigid enough.  The bar was also bowed about .009 out of the box anyway.  

Now the first thing you will probably see in this post is the pic of the case of beer.  I can explain.  I had an idea for a chip shield and since I don't have any sheet metal tools I called around getting some prices.  The first place was a $70 minimum. The next place was $15 and a 50 mile round trip. The third place the guy said bring me a case of Corona and it's yours.  So I said ok, what the price really.  He said I'm thirsty, that's the price.  So I grabbed a case and drove about 5 mins and I walked in with the beer, he handed me the part, I shook his hand and left.  I have to say that's the first time I've ever actually paid for anything with beer.
 :beerdrinkers:

Here are some pics.


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## JimDawson

Looks like a very clean install, came out nice.  You're going to love that K axis.  Now you need to make some money with it.


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## alloy

I've already made money with it.  So far about $1000 which is about a third of what I have in it.


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## alloy

I got tired of looking at the ugly motor adjustment "handle" so I made my own.  I found them on Ebay for $20, but this one cost me $4.79.

I found a ball at Ace hardware but the ball had a 5/16" thread in it.  So I got a 5/16" grade 2 bolt and cut it off and put some 1/4"x20 threads on one end.  Looks better than it did.





I also just did a write up on the DRO install  in the metrology forum.  Don't laugh too hard at it ok????


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## drs23

alloy said:


> I got tired of looking at the ugly motor adjustment "handle" so I made my own.  I found them on Ebay for $20, but this one cost me $4.79.
> 
> I found a ball at Ace hardware but the ball had a 5/16" thread in it.  So I got a 5/16" grade 2 bolt and cut it off and put some 1/4"x20 threads on one end.  Looks better than it did.
> 
> I also just did a write up on the DRO install  in the metrology forum.  Don't laugh too hard at it ok????



Good job. Looks "factory fresh"!


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## Falcon67

This kind of post is very encouraging to one that hopes to make B-port return to life someday.  Very nicely done.  As a hot rod guy that mods and sells some small trans fittings, I'm interested in what you're doing with trans tail housings.  Not to compete, just curious what others are doing. Currently trying to find a good "business case" for the lathe I already bought.  Hoping I run across something in the performance area.


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## alloy

You can click on the link in my post to see my web site.  It's tells about what I do. I'm glad I'm encouraging you.  All it takes is a lot of hard work.............and some bucks.  

I decided it was time to move the mill back to where it's going to live for the next how many years.  My GF said how are your going to move a 2000lb machine with no forklift.  I said easy, with this pry bar and 4 pieces of pipe.  Took about a half hour and moved it about 15 ft into place.  Now I just have to mount the VFD and get the cables on the DRO routed and the excess tied up and I'm pretty much set. I have dedicated the left tool box to mill tooling and the other one has my standard tools.




Now there is an empty spot in the middle of the garage.  My GF asked what I'm looking at, I said a new project to go there


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## Falcon67

>You can click on the link in my post to see my web site.
Duh'Oh!  Nice, I see the need there.  

Always "room" for another project here too.  Time...well, I'll have to get back to you on that.  Bucks is bucks, but the choices are not that great really.  I can get a new china mill like a Turn Pro, assuming Enco sends me yet another 30% anything coupon, for right at 5K.  Or, maybe I hunt a decent BP in the 2500~3500 range and spiff it up.  Maybe out the same $, so it's a kind of pick your battles thing.  The used machine is only luck of the draw and waiting with cash in hand for the right machine.  The new machine worry: is it a good one or was it built on China Friday.  A new $18K BP is not in the budget ever, so like Babs the Chicken said "Are those the only choices?"


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## drs23

alloy said:


> You can click on the link in my post to see my web site.  It's tells about what I do. I'm glad I'm encouraging you.  All it takes is a lot of hard work.............and some bucks.
> 
> I decided it was time to move the mill back to where it's going to live for the next how many years.  My GF said how are your going to move a 2000lb machine with no forklift.  I said easy, with this pry bar and 4 pieces of pipe.  Took about a half hour and moved it about 15 ft into place.  Now I just have to mount the VFD and get the cables on the DRO routed and the excess tied up and I'm pretty much set. I have dedicatd the left tool box to mill tooling and the other one has my standard tools.
> 
> 
> Now there is an empty spot in the middle of the garage.  My GF asked what I'm looking at, I said a new project to go there



I bet you get in the habit pretty quickly of keeping those boxes closed up. They'll be the most excellent chip collectors! :biggrin:

What are ya eyeballing for the empty spot?


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## alloy

I considered a new mill, but it would also be Chinese.  I found a Wells  Index for $3k and was interested in that, but it was bare, no digital or  power feed.  So I kept looking on Craigslist.  I had my phone set to  tools and milling machine as a search on my browser so all I had to do  was hit refresh and anything new would pop up.  I looked many times a  day until I found this one. 

I have about $3k in this, well  probably more...........and so many trips to the hardware store I can't  even begin to count the trips.  But it's American iron and I can pretty  much get any part I need for it. Parts availability was a big thing for  me.  I've bought Chinese stuff before and here were no parts available.   I have a Harbor Freight pressure blaster and the nozzle nut wore out.   They have a parts manual online and list all the parts and give part  numbers, but when I called they told me no parts are available for it. I  asked why they have the parts manual and he didn't answer, told me to  look on Ebay for parts.  Not very good customer service as far as I'm  concerned.  I had to go elsewhere for parts.  Northern Tool had a nice  dead-man gun with replaceable parts.

Yes I know the boxes and good chip collectors, but there was so much unused space behind the mill putting the boxes there freed up other much needed space elsewhere. I have two more boxes like that, so with moving them I can bring my bandsaw out of the corner so I can actually use it.


Now I have my search on my phone set for lathe, and might look or a Tig welder.  I really have no use for a Tig, but Ive always wanted to learn to use one.  I will be bored without a project to work on.  Might even be fun to find another mill to work on and turn for a "small" profit. I figure I'm make about a $1 per hour for my time on it


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## Falcon67

I forgot to mention the parts availability - A BP looks like a Mustang, you can buy just about every part you'd need to fix one.  That is a huge plus to a used BP.  

$1 hr?  Well - that's a better return than I usually get bracket racin' LOL.  Don't forget your write down/deductions on materials and equipment


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## alloy

Yeah maybe a $1 an hour if I'm lucky.  But that empty spot on the floor is calling to me 

I have to say I'm happy I held out for a Bridgeport.  Like someone else said in another thread in 30 years a Bridgeport will still be making chips, maybe not for me but it will for someone.  Try that with a Chinese mill much less try to get parts for one then. Mine is 52 years old and I can get pretty much anything I need for it.

I do save receipts for a deduction in my business.  I'm wondering about that grocery store receipt for the case of Corona I used to pay for my sheet metal cover for K axis.  That one might be a tough one to get by my accountant.

I never made any money bracket racing. I usually won if I didn't break something but we didn't do it for money back then.


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## Falcon67

Lol if you read the rules bartering is a taxable transaction.  Right.  I've won enough this year to pay for the new lathe so not bad for running on the spare motor.


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## alloy

Well the saga of the BP is at a close. (for me at least)I sold it last night for $3000.  Paid $1300 for it, and put about $1k in it.

I've had it for just over 2 years and ran about $12k of work across it.   Now someone else can enjoy it.  He's replacing a Sherline.  I hope he doesn't hurt himself with it.

Long live the Bridgeport!!!!!!


----------

