# Pm25mv Tramming Aids



## Dman1114 (Oct 11, 2015)

i was wondering if anyone had some pictures of what they cam up with for tramming aids for the head.

The right ride wont be an issue, but on the other side it seems kinda tight and the control box maybe in the way.....

anyone have any advice...

Thinking bout maybe putting the control box out on a mount arm so there is more room???


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## kd4gij (Oct 11, 2015)

I did a mod that is on the  G0704.com website. From a gal machinechick. I will find the link for you.

 ok I can't find her post. I  will get a picture of mine. I have the G0704 but it is the same machine.


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## kd4gij (Oct 11, 2015)

Here is a pic of the left side.


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## kd4gij (Oct 11, 2015)

And here is the print.


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## T Bredehoft (Oct 11, 2015)

That is a great Idea.  Why couldn't I have thought of that. (Banging head against wall)


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## Dman1114 (Oct 11, 2015)

I did find them .....   now that leads me to why i was asking for a pic of the left side....

Here is what mine looks like.

Im gonna pull it apart and C what needs extending in order to put out on an arm or relocate it so i have more room


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## T Bredehoft (Oct 12, 2015)

On mine, I'll be able to drill and tap the block with the dovetails in it, mount the adjustment and use a screw with a hex head to adjust the tramming. I'm starting to cast about looking for some small steel.

Oh. that heat sink is removable. Take out the four screws, unplug the wires and your good to go, all but run the machine.


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## Dman1114 (Oct 12, 2015)

well looks like have plenty of room now.....

Now i just gotta make the Tramming aids......


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## wrmiller (Oct 12, 2015)

Very nice! Tramming aids were  one of the first things I did to my PM25. Of course I've never had use for them after the original tram, but hey, you never know.


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## GeeClark (Oct 14, 2015)

Those tramming aids are easy to make and easy to use.  I've got them on my PM25.  I did not bother with the lock nut on the adjustment screw Tension is maintained by the screw on the opposite side (kind of like centering on a 4 jaw).  
Regards,
Gary


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## kd4gij (Oct 14, 2015)

If you look at mine and the size, they should fit above that heat sink.


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## compsurge (Oct 15, 2015)

Could you put two on the right side (one above the axis of rotation and one below)? I would think it would have the same effect.


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## Dman1114 (Oct 15, 2015)

All done now.....      since i spaced out the control box now theres plenty of room.


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## T Bredehoft (Oct 18, 2015)

kd4gij said:


> And here is the print.



New question, is the part that's tapped solid cast iron, or is it hollow?  If hollow, how thick are the walls? Did you use NF screws?

One above and one below the pivot point puts them less than  three inches apart. The pivot is only 1 1/2 inches above the bottom.


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## T Bredehoft (Oct 19, 2015)

I installed mine today, .450 in from the corner he iron is solid, I didn't have short 1/4 20 screws, 7/8 was the shortest I could find so I tappet it that deep.  I did have to take the heat sink off to drill the tap hole, though. 'Twas fun climbing up on the counter to drill and tap the holes, at my advanced age, too. Well, getting down was even harder.


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## kd4gij (Oct 19, 2015)

T Bredehoft said:


> New question, is the part that's tapped solid cast iron, or is it hollow?  If hollow, how thick are the walls? Did you use NF screws?
> 
> One above and one below the pivot point puts them less than  three inches apart. The pivot is only 1 1/2 inches above the bottom.




  I used 1/2" long m4 Because I had them. And mine was solid where there at.


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## Dman1114 (Oct 19, 2015)

I used 1",  1/4 -28 screws so i drilled in all of 3/4"   no issues its solid. 

ONce i spaced  out the control box  i didn't have to remove the heat sink.... I was able to drill it with my sioux drill....   when i tapped it i used a long extension just to get my hand out of the way.


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## T Bredehoft (Oct 19, 2015)

Yeah, I had to use a pulley tap.


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