# Mt2 - Tang Or No Tang?



## Banjo5 (Dec 31, 2015)

Hi folks:

Happy New Year!

Would like feedback on two questions-

I'm looking to buy a keyless chuck to fit the tailstock of my Atlas 10F. I found one on e-bay,  http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-32-5-8-3J...K-JT3-2MT-TANGED-TANG-ARBOR-MT2-/131609744055 ,  but it has a tang on the insert. I've always wondered why some inserts have a tang and some don't, and are they interchangeable?  I'm guessing the purpose of the tang is to keep the insert from spinning, but which do I need - tang or no tang for my Atlas?

Second - I'm just beginning to shop for this tool. Is this one from all industrial tool supply reasonably decent quality, or is it junk? How is all industrial to deal with? I don't need a lot of extreme precision right now, but I'd rather spend the money to get good value, and something I can grow into if I need more precision to hopefully build models later. I can't see my budget going for one like an Albrecht for hobbying.

Thanks,
 BANJO5


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## brino (Dec 31, 2015)

...as for tang vs. no-tang:

the tang is also useful to eject the arbour. On a drill press, you'd use a taper into a little window to eject it.

On my lathe tailstock I have had to machine some little plugs for the back end of some arbours in order for them to be ejected when the ram is retracted.
I try to make them a tight fit, some I lock-tite in place.

Be careful about putting one in without a plan for removal, they do tend to lock in easily.

-brino

Edit: here's a reference to removing one from a drill press, the tang is just visible thru the little spindle window.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/article/3425/How_to_Remove_and_Reinstall_a_Drill_Press_Chuck.html


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## Banjo5 (Dec 31, 2015)

thanks BRINO.

After seeing your reply, I remembered that my drill press has a tang taper, and it looks like MT2(CRAFTSMAN, 1HP). I've got it out with the taper bar, and will try it in my ATLAS.

BANJO5


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## RJSakowski (Dec 31, 2015)

I have cut my tangs off my Morse taper adapters in order to get more travel from the tailstock feed.  If you cut yours off, you should be careful not to cut too much as the adapter will not eject before the tailstock lead screw reaches the end of its travel.  I would look at the quill position when the arbor is ejected and at how much further you retract the tailstock quill.  That will tell you how much to cut off.  If you do cut off too much, you can always drill and insert a button in the end of the adapter to build up the length.  A drop of super glue or LocTite will be sufficient to hold the button in place.


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## Ulma Doctor (Dec 31, 2015)

you'll have more trouble ejecting short taper MT2 tooling than the long taper or tanged tooling for that matter.
when i'm using the short MT2, 
like Brino & RJ, i'll add a small cylinder of brass, aluminum, or mild steel behind the tool to facilitate easy ejection- but i haven't attached an extension with glue, it free floats


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## stupoty (Dec 31, 2015)

I use the mt3 drill chuck that came with my mill for drilling in the lathe, it had an m12 drawbar thread and no tang, i use a bit too of all thread with a rough ground domed end to make it eject (after removing it the first time it got stuck) makes the ejection adjustable too.  I have had the tangless drill chuck spin from time to time which is always annoying.

Stuart


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## Banjo5 (Dec 31, 2015)

Thanks everyone for the replies.

I tried my MT2 (with a tang) from drill press in the lathe, and it does fit. So I have something to use until I can get another one shipped. I see  the tang pushing the taper out earlier than non-tang tapers, as you've all said.

BANJO 5


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## atunguyd (Dec 31, 2015)

I could only find MT2 arbours with tangs and as RJSakowski said they do reduce your tailstock travel. My solution was to cut it off then drill and tap the rear of the arbour and put a grub screw in there. You can then adjust the grub screw so that your tail stock ejects the arbour exactly where you want it. 

Sent from my SM-N920C using Tapatalk


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## kd4gij (Dec 31, 2015)

The atlas tailstock isn't set up for a tang. You can use a tang arbor but you lose some travel. I have a couple arbors That had tangs an I cut the tang off for more travel. My drill press also has an 2mt taper and uses the tang.


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## wa5cab (Jan 3, 2016)

Just a word of warning.  If you cut off the tang off of a standard 2MT tanged drill chuck arbor almost flush with the small end of the taper, it should eject with the scale on the tailstock ram just under 1/2".  And don't make the mistake of slapping the chuck into your drill press spindle.  If you do, you will most probably spend 15 to 30 minutes trying to balance something like a 1/4" hex nut on the end of the arbor and trying to get the fid in and tight against both the nut and top of the quill slot without knocking the nut out the far side of the slot where it disappear under something on the floor.


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## brino (Jan 3, 2016)

Ulma Doctor said:


> but i haven't attached an extension with glue, it free floats



Originally I only had them free-float......but after the second or third time of forgetting it and not being able to eject them easily they got lock-tite!
Your mileage will vary with your ability to remember this little detail.
-brino


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## lowinohio (Feb 29, 2016)

This thread isn't too old, so I thought I'd post something about the tailstock and a morse taper tang.  I've owned a Craftsman "Commercial" 12"x36" metal lathe for over 30 years.  It's been a great addition to the shop and has paid for itself many times over.  At least that's what I tell my wife.  My only complaint, other than I'd like to have something with a little more mass, is the occasional spinning of the arbor in the tailstock when boring.  I have a selection of drills with morse taper shanks that I like to use, plus the drill chuck, but unfortunately the tailstock does not have a lock for the tang.  I've decided that it's time to do something about it.  It's apart, I've marked the location of the tang, etc., and now I'm trying to decide how to accomplish this.  I think I have two options.  One would be to drill and put a pin next to the tang.  The other is to drill and tap each side for set screws.  I think I like the pin option better, but thought I'd post this to hear if anyone else has come up with a better method to lock the tang, or has done one of these.   
Thanks!


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## Mondo (Mar 1, 2016)

If your 2MT drill arbor is turning in the tailstock ram when drilling on the lathe then there is debris or burrs on the male taper or inside the female taper.  It may be time for a thorough cleaning and honing the inside of the female taper and similar treatment to the male taper.  Once cleaned, honed, and cleaned again be certain there is no oil in or on the tapers.  Put the arbor in and seat it with a deft rap with a brass mallet or block of wood and small hammer.  Just be sure the chuck jaws are fully retracted into the body of the chuck before hitting it.  Once properly seated and pressure is applied while drilling that taper should not turn.  That's the nature of the taper - the greater the drilling pressure the greater the resistance against turning.

Spiral_Chips


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## lowinohio (Mar 1, 2016)

I know the tailstock taper isn't as perfect as it should be.  I usually try to clean all tapers, collets, etc., before inserting.  I can feel imperfections in the tailstock taper that have always been there.  For the most part, spinning isn't an issue, but when it does I can envision more damage to the taper.  I have a #2mt reamer and have considered cleaning it up.  Maybe I'll do that first to see how things improve.  I have yet to get the courage to drill and pin the ram, but I do like the idea of a pin in there. 

thanks for the reply.


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## lowinohio (Mar 1, 2016)

OK Spiral_Chips, you talked me into cleaning up the taper before I get drastic and start drilling!  I ran a reamer into the ram lightly just to smooth things out.  I'll wait until the next need to drill to see how things work.  It was an easy first pass.   thanks


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