# New 2.2 Vfd For My Mill



## duggined (Apr 15, 2015)

Hi Everyone, I am having a problem connecting my new 2.2 vfd onto my existing 3 phase mill, I have been using my 15hp rpc but really wanted the extra with the variable speed. It has the adjustable speed pulleys but in time I am setting it up for cnc. I just set another vfd and spindle on my 5.5 foot by 8 foot cnc plasma\router table. It worked out great and I wired both the same. My problem is when I plug it in the vfd powers up and when I hit run it sounds like the motor is a turbo spooling up but doesn't turn, I even took the tension off the belt. Any Ideas? more needed info? seems every time I try to move onto the next project my legs are pulled out from under me...lol   Oh the motor is a 2 hp baldor and it has been working great, all the wiring is 12 gage and from VFD to motor is armored and shielded.
Ed


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## duggined (Apr 17, 2015)

well so much for any help here. not one reply in 3 days.


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## JimDawson (Apr 17, 2015)

I missed your post.  It sounds like the parameters are not set correctly.  You don't mention the model of the VFD, but if it's a Hyungan, then check the PD119 parameter.  The factory default setting is suppose to be 150

Also check, that PD141 and PD142 are set to the motor nameplate voltage and current.


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## duggined (Apr 19, 2015)

Thank you Jim, With your help and Jbolts post   http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/huanyang-vfd-wiring-setup-vfd-newbie.34107/ I did det the mill going under vfd power. I still have some errors coming up but working them out slowly.
Ed


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## mksj (Apr 19, 2015)

You do not define the parameters of your system (motor/VFD and set-up), nor the VFD program variables, so it is a bit abstract as to providing any specific assistance. I will assume you have a Huanyang 2.2KW VFD, please provide model number, motor you are driving and desired parameters. If you list how you have set the program parameter file, members can provide more concise information to assist you. This includes additional problems you are having.

Attached is a programing file for a 2.2KW Huanyang VFD driving a 2Hp 3 phase motor, of course the parameter file may be different depending on the VFD and motor model you have.


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## duggined (Apr 20, 2015)

Thank you for your reply. the image is the motor I am using. I set up the specs like jbolt posted. It is now working to a point but when I try and change speeds it will shut down and will not keep running, it goes into I guess a error mode and shows E0 and not sure of the rest, I went out to check but remembered I striped the wiring and putting larger wire on it. I will find out in a couple hours. I keep reading that on the HY VFD that on single phase to wire the 220 to space R and S but in your daig it shows R and T. Will that make a different outcome?  also I see on Jbolt's post that on the 2 screws below the connection strip it shows a ground on each side in the plastic, He said he wired the cable shield but it doesn't show continuity to anything. This is all new to me and any help is appreciated. I will post the error code when I get the unit rewired
Ed


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## Earl (Apr 20, 2015)

It does not make any difference which input pins are used.   The Huanyang vfd's will accept single phase or 3 phase input power.  R, S & T are the inputs to the bridge rectifier.   If you had 3 phase input power you would use all three.  I have a couple of them running my southbend and grizzly lathes.   The HY's are the best bang for the buck in the world of vfd's.   The only real issue with the 2.2 kw units (don't know about the others) is the lack of dynamic braking.  There is information on the net about it.  It is said (on the internet) that just some of the components are missing and all you need to do is to add them.  I have the missing components right here in a drawer but when I opened up the unit to add them I found that there is no place to put them!    At some point,  I will build a circuit board and add the circuitry to make the dynamic brake work on the grizzly 12 x 36.   I just use some dc braking on the southbend, if my memory serves me, it was the parameters around pd031 that needed to be set for that.
I have not been into mine or looked at the book in a year or so but I believe that your EO  error is over voltage.  when you slow down the motor too fast, (as in "spin the potentiometer") the motor becomes a generator and the voltage at the VFD is higher that what the vfd thinks is should be so it errors out and shuts down.  I'll bet if you slow down gradually,  the error will not happen.   (I am assuming that you are using a pot to vary the speed)


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## duggined (Apr 20, 2015)

Hi Earl, Thank you. I believe what you are saying is right about the error but I do not have a pot on this vfd. I bought one with a 3hp spindle for my cnc table and then bought 2 for other machines, namely the mill for one and my 2x72 belt sander I started building in early dec. but than my son had a kidney transplant on dec 15th and I haven't been back to that project since...the time is coming though, I at least got that bench cleaned enough as to see the parts...lol
Now I was thinking I would have to solder a pot on the circuit board but now the more I read Is it true I can put one on using the green set screws behind the cover plate?   Just so much t o learn...lol   The spots are ACM  10V and Vl as in MKSJ's post


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## jbolt (Apr 20, 2015)

duggined said:


> also I see on Jbolt's post that on the 2 screws below the connection strip it shows a ground on each side in the plastic, He said he wired the cable shield but it doesn't show continuity to anything. This is all new to me and any help is appreciated. I will post the error code when I get the unit rewired
> Ed



Ed, After someone suggested I check the two grounding screws for continuity I found that indeed these screws did not have continuity to ground. I moved the main 220vac ground to the same ground lug as the motor (#9) in my photo. I left the motor shield where it was and ran a drain wire from there to a machine chassis ground.

Post #100 of this thread has my final vfd/motor settings.
Jay


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## mksj (Apr 20, 2015)

So you I assume you have a HY02D223B (2.2Kw) model. Which can be wired as single or three phase input. As mentioned the power input (single phase 240V) can be wired to any of the two terminals (RST). The speed pot is wired to the terminals indicated, there is no need to solder or pull anything apart. The basic connection diagram specifies a speed pot of 10K (although probably anything from 2-10K is fine, wire wound and at least 2W) connected to the ACM (0 V), VI (Pot wiper) and VR (+10V) terminals.

Terminal P and Pr are for a braking resistor. At least on the model above, it does not indicate the need for a braking module (which would include additional circuity including a  switching transistor and braking resistor), nor is this indicated on the basic connection diagram. I did set up one of these VFDs (2.2KW version), and if I recall I used a 300W 70 Ohm braking resistor (anything in the 50-100 ohm and at least 250W should be OK). You can buy one off of eBay, for $20-30, they are in a sealed aluminum housing with high temperature wire leads. There are a number of posts indicating the failure of Huanyang VFD's from too aggressive braking without a braking resistor. An over voltage spike/error code is very common with too aggressive braking, especially when a braking resistor is not used. This is particularly true in machines that have a lot of rotating mass, like lathes. Routers and smaller mills, it is less problematic. Without a braking resistor, I would start with a 5 second acceleration and 5 second deceleration times.

So it is important to know circumstances of exactly when the error code occurs, what did you press/change and what happens, if the error code occurs when there is a sudden deceleration or when stopping, then most likely this is an over voltage situation. The motor will usually free wheel to a stop. Increase the braking time (seconds) and see if this changes anything. If so , you need a braking resistor. Once installed, decrease the braking time (using the maximum speed/mass of the system) until the error occurs, and then back off 1 or 2 seconds. I have a program function on my VFD to dynamically change the braking time (1 stage vs. 2 stage braking), so I can switch to a longer braking time if I run at high speeds with a big chuck. Works very well.

Please make sure that you have set the VFD motor parameters to your motor shown, Voltage should be 230V, amperage 6.4A,  RPM 1725, poles = 4. I would configure your VFD similar to the parameters in the PDF file previously posted, this is closer to your operating parameters, just update the motor parameters. Make sure PD006-PD011 are set per the table. Change PD015 Decel Time 1 to 5 seconds for now. Make sure your motor is wired for LOW VOLTAGE (4, 5, 6 connected; line is 3, 9, U connected together; 8, 2, V connected together; and 7, 1, W  connected together). U, V, W are in no particular order at the motor, and must be connected directly to your VFD terminals. You should also have a ground lead connected at both ends.

Let us know how it goes.


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## Earl (Apr 20, 2015)

My HY vfd's are about 2 and 4 years old.  When I had one of them  apart,  I found that there was nothing connected to one of the Brake Resistor terminals!  There was a very small trace that terminated in a hole just above one of  the screw terminals -   It was either P or R don't remember which one.    Nothing on the other side of the board either.  That made it clear as to why the brake circuit did not work.      My heat sink encased resistor (70 ohm, 300 watt)  came from Ebay.    I believe it was in the $30 dollar range as well.  Somewhere in my archives,  I have the schematic of the power driver board.  If I can find it in the next few days,  I will post it here.  It shows the components missing from most of the HY vfds.   I also have the device numbers for the missing IGBT and opto isolater if anyone is interested.

There is no need for a wire wound pot.  Both of my units run a 99 cent,  half watt, 5k linear pot.    I didn;t have any linear pots in my junk drawer so I got mine from Radio Shack  (may they rest in peace)


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## duggined (Apr 22, 2015)

Hi Earl, Thanks for the info...I am trying to figure out how  to wire the pot to the VFD, I know where to connect ON the vfd  (Vl  10V and ACM)  I am just not sure which of the 3 go where on the pot switch....taking this little steps at a time.  Soon hopefully I will be able to run my other setup on my cnc off Mach3
Ed


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## mksj (Apr 23, 2015)

My experience with cheap pots is that they fail, get noisy or can develop dead spots over time. I deal with this all the time with electronic gear, and have repaired/replaced quite a few. Different type/construction pots suit different needs.  Any decent pot will work, but many inexpensive pots are poorly sealed/subject to contamination, and have poor tactile feel, but you get what you pay for. The connections to the pot are ACM (0 V), VI (Pot wiper) and VR (+10V) terminals as outlined in the previously attached PDF file, as well as the other connections. Looking at the pot there are 3 connections, holding the pot with the shaft toward you and the 3 connection terminals at the bottom; the left terminal is ACM (0V low side), the center is VI (pot wiper which varies the voltage), and the right terminal is VR (+10V, or high side).


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## duggined (Apr 23, 2015)

Thank you Mksj, That answer is just what I was looking for. You always have the answers and I couldn't ask for more. The Pots I am using are from a delay on operate controller made by SenSitrol and seem like well made pots, well as far as I know but I don't seem to know much about this sort of stuff. I went though your VFD parameter file which was very helpful. It is still coming up with a error but it only does it when I lower the speed and when it gets to 120 hz it is fine but when I start to slow it down that is when it slowly stops and then the eoun error comes up.
I will try the pot in the morning and maybe that will help.
Ed


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## duggined (Apr 27, 2015)

Well I am now back to working on my mills VFD, Had to completely tear down my cnc Z axis, had about 1/8th of a inch slop in the up and down and my X axis  kept stopping at the same place at full speed going left that would cause the router to keep moving to the left step by step...Put springs on x and cured that problem, the z was more involved and still a work in progress but better. Anyway I got my VFD working without coming up with a error when I would change speeds but still can not make the Pot work for speed control, PD001 and PD002 I have tried each a 0,1, and 2 not wont start the spindle at all if both are not on 0, also made sure the VI and VR jumper was right, well tried both to be sure, I also tried 2 different pot switches and same result. Cant wait to be back making things again instead of just fixing. My son is feeling so much better after having a kidney transplant in Dec. that he wants to start milling 80% lowers for AR15's...We have done one but was having problems with speed at the time.  Thanks again for all the help so far. I hope someday I will be the one helping others.
Ed


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## mksj (Apr 27, 2015)

Please provide the model number or a picture of the nameplate on your VFD so others can align comments with the correct manual. You might post a picture of the input terminals to confirm wiring.


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## duggined (Apr 27, 2015)

Thanks for posting so quickly MKSJ, Here are the photos, I also showed the Pot with wire color and in the same position as you posted last week, Might be hard to make out in the photo of the pot but should show the wire colors are in the same places you posted last week. I have to say the new apple 6 plus camera takes great photos....just so darn large...lol
Ed


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## coolidge (Apr 27, 2015)

That wiring looks iffy in particular that black wire.


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## duggined (Apr 27, 2015)

Iffy as in not connected? I seen that also and they are all in tight. I did try something since posting this morning, The readout on the VFD that came with my 3 hp spindle and vfd does have the dial so I put it on the mill I am working on and although it did work it was very slow speed on the max setting...hopefully that might help ideas too...worth a try...lol


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## duggined (Apr 27, 2015)

Ok I did get the speed working using a THIRD Pot but does work now...sounds weird but I think it is just the pully setup to change speeds which came on the mill...I will be taking all that off soon to run smoother...



     that is a u-tube showing it'
Ed


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## mksj (Apr 27, 2015)

Interesting about the different pots and problems. Agree, sounds more like belt/pulley noise and possibly bearings. Looks like it has a variable speed pulley set-up. I would run the motor at something between 30-90 Hz, no lower than 20Hz. You get more cogging, poor performance and overheating problems below this range, and above 90Hz, it starts to not sound so good. It may be possible to tweak some of the VFD parameters to get some further improvement. Probably easiest for you to post the changes you have made, or the program variables. If you need the default set of commands, PM me and I can send them to you if that makes it easier.


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## duggined (Apr 27, 2015)

about the pots, would you think very old ones would have more problems?  these are from the 70's....I have some newer ones.  The problem I am having is it seems the motor cant keep up when I turn the dial like a time delay then all of a sudden it will take off and speed way up...Just so much to learn but thanks to people like you guys I will be past  the head scratching in no time...lol  I will go back and try and remember what all I changed as I went and write them all down or at least make a entire list and compare the different numbers.  The default you mentioned are those the ones in the manual?


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## John Hasler (Apr 27, 2015)

duggined said:


> about the pots, would you think very old ones would have more problems?  these are from the 70's....I have some newer ones.


I use good quality pots from the 70s frequently.  As long as they aren't worn out it doesn't matter when they were made.


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