# I Need To Replace The Wiring On My Lathe Motor



## John_Dennis (Nov 19, 2015)

I just got my Logan 10 out of storage and noticed that the wires have become too brittle to use.  The motor has gotten splashed with a little oil and coolant over the years and the markings are now obscured or non existent.

I need to label the Cutler Hamer Drum switch terminals so I can re-wire it properly.  After I label the drum switch, I may need to post a photo of the labeled switch for help reverse engineering the wiring If the motor wires are not marked.

The power supply cord to the switch is Black/Red/Green

The two cords going from the switch to the motor are Black/Red/White/green  and Black/White

D is Neutral
E is Hot/L1
A and F are jumpered

I would appreciate any wisdom you have.

John


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## Ulma Doctor (Nov 20, 2015)

if you are just replacing the wires to the switch and then from the switch to the motor,
simply clip of the wire near the switch so that you can identify which color went where, and remove the cable.
remove and install the new cables one at a time and the job should be a slam dunk!


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## John_Dennis (Nov 20, 2015)

that is my hope, but the insulation on the motor side looks bad.  I expect I will have to disassemble the motor to repair the insulation on the motor leads.  I suspect that I might loose track of something along the way.  I was hoping to have a diagram to refer back to.


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## John Hasler (Nov 20, 2015)

John_Dennis said:


> that is my hope, but the insulation on the motor side looks bad.  I expect I will have to disassemble the motor to repair the insulation on the motor leads.  I suspect that I might loose track of something along the way.  I was hoping to have a diagram to refer back to.


Make your own diagram as you go along.  It doesn't have to look like one from the manufacturer as long as you can make sense of it.  Also tag each wire with a bit of tape with a code on it.  Take lots of photos.


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## British Steel (Nov 20, 2015)

What they said... For the motor's internal wires' conections to the windings, use a high melting point solder if possible and high-temperature insulated wires, it can get hot in there, and a nice touch is the braided-fibre sleeving sold for behind low-voltage halogen ceiling lamps, very heat and abrasion resistant. I've only found it in red though!
As a motor's subject to vibration, use stranded wire not solid-core, if it looks like being expensive gettting so may colours you can get numbered slip-on sleeves from an industrial electrical supplier and use those instead of multiple colours for identification.

Dave H. (the other one)


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## Ulma Doctor (Nov 20, 2015)

another tidbit...
3m makes printed wire identification stickers that will stay on for 10 years or better


i use them a lot!


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## John_Dennis (Nov 20, 2015)

I found this write-up with helpful diagrams that covers a few drum switch scenarios.     http://bridgeport.askmisterscience.com/indignities.htm


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## TOOLMASTER (Nov 21, 2015)

if they are not shorted and everything works how about using liquid tape.


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## A618fan2 (Nov 22, 2015)

but Not sure of your model I found this over on practical machinist site: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...athe-start-finish-progress-300932/index2.html


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## John_Dennis (Nov 25, 2015)

After disassembling the motor, I found that the bearings were worn so I decided it wasn't worth the effort.  The overly complicated wiring was caused by the PO running every wire in the motor to the switch. 

Thanks for the help.

John


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