# New to me Colchester Chipmaster



## samthedog

My previous Lathe was an Emco Maximat V10 and although a very good lathe, was a little worn and too small compared to my mill. I wanted the lathe and mill to compliment each other and be of similar size and weight in order to have them produce similar quality results (all dependent on the operator of course). This lathe is a huge step up as it weighs 4 - 5 times more than the Maximat and has a clutch, mechanical variable speed drive, spindle brake, powered cross feed and camlock chucks. Add to this it's rigidity and it's in an entirely different league to the little Emco. For those interested there are more details here:

http://www.lathes.co.uk/chipmaster/

I saw this lathe advertised in Sweden while on vacation visiting family in Australia. I rang the company and told them I wanted it and assured them I would take it if they held it for me. I periodically rang throughout my holiday to make sure they didn't doubt my intentions to buy the lathe. I arrived home to Norway on a Wednesday and then drove out on the Friday night to Sweden. In total I travelled 1300 km which took 18 hours for the round trip. I was happy to do this since the mechanical condition of the lathe was extremely good. There was no bed wear that I could see and the original precision grinding was still evident on the ways and sliding surfaces. Add to this that it came with a host of accessories, including a full set of change gears and it turned out to be a bargain despite the required travel time and distance.

At this point I am in the process of converting the electrical from 400 volt 3 phase to 230 volt 3 phase. This requires changing the motor to Delta config and replacing the magnetic switch since the no voltage safety and overload protection are not suited for the lower voltage and higher amperage. I have attached some pictures since this machine is hard to find outside of Europe and the UK I figured you may enjoy some photos.

Paul.


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## Metalmann

Wow, she's in great shape. 

Have never seen a Colchester lathe, that wasn't a fantastic machine to set up and run.:man:


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## Tony Wells

Nice machine, especially if you're a SouthPaw. They're good, heavy, accurate machines. You'll be glad you bought it.


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## jumps4

welcome
 you have three posts and already i wish i was you.:lmao::lmao::lmao:
that is a nice lathe
steve


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## Bill Gruby

I ran one of those many years ago. You will like that lathe. That one is in great shape.

 "Billy G" )


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## samthedog

jumps4 said:


> welcome
> you have three posts and already i wish i was you.:lmao::lmao::lmao:
> that is a nice lathe
> steve



Thanks Steve. I am not there yet. I need to get the electrical working before I can set it up properly.

Since moving to Norway I have been lucky with the number of beautiful European and English machines I have come across. 

Having just re-read my initial post I am horrified at the number of spelling mistakes :banghead:

Don't you hate writing things while tired? Anyway, I am ordering a new magnetic switch for the lathe and then I can get it set up properly. I will then have to source a coolant pump and the correct oils for the headstock, variator and clutch. I assurd my wife when I bought it that I wouldn't have to spend any more money on tools... :shush:

Paul.


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## swatson144

samthedog said:


> I assurd my wife when I bought it that I wouldn't have to spend any more money on tools... :shush:
> 
> Paul.



Well you probably won't "have to" any more than she'd have to have another pair of shoes or sparkly baubble. 

Steve


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## oilslick

Nice, Clean and high RPM, what more could you want, very versatile machine. Congrat's)


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## samthedog

Hello rcflier. Congratulations on your lathe. I am quite happy to scan my manual and send you a copy. I will even go one further and take photos of the change gears and the carriage stop so you can either make or source something that can be modified to suit your needs (if you want them).

I had trouble working out what had happened with my machine since it has the newer variator, matrix clutch and motor mount. However, the number is G3444, which means it was produced in 1965. This again does not make sense since the continental gearboxes were meant to be on the newer lathes, and that the older models didn't have induction hardened beds. Also, it has the old style clutch lever. It is a mystery but it is in good shape so I am pretty happy. I am just waiting for the new magnetic switch to arrive so I can get it going again.

I'd love to see some pictures of your machine now that you have cleaned it.

Paul.


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## samthedog

Hello Erik,

I'm not a Norwegian.. Australian actually. I married a Norwegian and have been living here for a while. 

Jeg snakke norsk og kan forstå Dansk :drink2:

For the sake of being polite though I stick to English on the forums. The funny thing about my machine is despite having the serial number G3444 on the bed, headstock and all the other castings, it still has the newer drive components. I didn't check to see if I had the metric leadscrew since I figured it was the continental, it _MUST_ have the metric leadscrew (surely?).

I was considering getting a Multifix too, but the Dixon came with 7 holders so I will see how it does. If you decide to get rid of it, I would be interested in any holders you have. I won't have time until the weekend to measure up the stop but once I do I'll pm you the measurements.

Now having looked at your introduction post... How do you rate the Chippie compared to the Weiler? The Primus was my dream lathe until I came across the Chipmaster. I am just curious if I upgraded, downgraded or just took a side-step )

Paul.


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## samthedog

Are you replacing the variator because it's noisy or because you want the VFD to take that role? My variator is still good so I have not thought to replace it with a VFD (yet). 

I have been looking at the lathe trying to figure out why it's a continental with old serial numbers. I am wondering if it was crated for years and then changed over to metric before being moved out of the factory. I mean even the motor has a plate that says it's year of manufacture is 1964. Unless the information of lathes.co.uk is incorrect I can't really understand how this has occured.

As for the tool post, you can buy the non-original holders here:

http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/Quickchange_Toolpost__Separate_Tool_Holders_.html

If you see how much an original set is going for:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dickson-S...569?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item53eff6c941

I would try hold on to it if I were you and just get Chinese made holders. They are quite cheap and from what I understand are decent enough to do the job.

Now reading your story of how you got the Primus, I thought I was the only one silly enough to drive 18 hours for a lathe :nuts: I guess if you don't have a lot of money, you need to go the extra distance to get a good deal. Getting my Chippie took 2 days of solid driving. 1300 km that took my 18 hours due to the heavy load on the trailer and weather conditions.

Paul.


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## samthedog

Ah, now oils is a hot topic for me with a Colchester Chipmaster. when changing oil on a Chipmaster, the oils have changed over time to the following:

Shell Tellius 15 is now *Shell Morlina 10*

Shell Tellius 33 is now *Shell Tellius 68*

Shell Vitrea 21 changed to *Shell Vitrea 22* or *Shell* *Process Oil P835*

I have asked Tess to look into this and they said that they can source the oil from Shell. Check these guys:

http://www.tess.eu/index.php?option=com_contact&view=category&catid=1&Itemid=7&lang=en

They are located in Denmark and if you tell them the new names for the oil, they should be able to either order it for you, or find one of their distributers.

So you have a copy for yourself, I have attached the pdf for all the shell oils needed for the Colchester Chipmaster and their new designations.

Paul.

Oh, and I am super jealous of your mill. I have a mill that is very rare, but not as pedigree as yours.


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## samthedog

I was originally looking at getting a deckel FP1 as well, or an Aciera F3 which is a very similar machine. All the examples I found here in Norway were too worn to hold decent tolerances. Now.... am I getting the hint that you are interested in "moving on" from your Deckel? I am not sure that I have the ability to help you with that but I would still be interested. I managed to get my mill for a good price, and given it's quality, I am sure could be sold for a decent sum to put towards another machine.... *if * one happened to catch my eye.

My mill is very different in design from a Deckel and more closely resembles a jig-borer:

http://www.lathes.co.uk/mattsson&zetterlund/

The advantage of staying with the mill I have is that it's work envelope is perfectly matched with the Chipmaster's. Both machines are around 550 kg, of the same quality, and, have simillar capacities. Add to that it's small footprint and I have a machine that easily tucks away in a corner, can be used as a mill and heavy duty drill press, and is very accurate but still easy to move about. I am guessing these are the reasons why you wanted the FP1.

As for the variator in the Chippie... I am trying to keep the machine as original as possible. Variators are still in use in industrial machines so there are advantages to using them. You just need to know their quirks and how to use them in order to reduce wear. I will be draining mine and rinsing it with kerosene and then filling with clean oil to ensure it's all ok. When I heard my lathe run the variator was quiet through the different speed ranges so I hope I got a good one.

Paul.


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## samthedog

I have finally gotten to a stage where I think I have all the machines I need. Although I would love a Deckel or Aciera, the Jungner is ok as a mill and will only ever be doing light work. I wanted to keep the limit at about 1/2 a ton in order to move the machines about easily. I am not certain how long we will be living in Norway so I have always bought my machines with the view that they need to be compact in order to transport them. I figured with my high lift pallet truck, I could load the machines myself into the shipping container if we ever move.

My next purchase will be a decent sharpener so I can sharpen end mills myself. I had a chance to get a nice one identical to yours but it fell through. At this point though I would be happy to get the oil I need for the Chipmaster. I may have to order from the UK as I am having problems with TESS here in Norway. The terrible service in Norway is beyond belief. I have been to several stores and rang many more and the answer has always been the same, "we can't be bothered to help you for such small amounts of oil... try someone else".

Paul.


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## samthedog

Ha!! I actually am in that position since my neighbour works in a prototyping lab where they throw out their end mills and cutting tools after each use. He and I have an arrangement. 

The reason I have been looking at a sharpener is so if I end up moving I can resharpen my own tools. I need to draw the line as the space in my garage is quickly running out and I am starting to feel slightly claustraphobic :bitingnails:

I have actually begun thinning out the tools I have and only keeping those I know I will have an immediate use for. The problem is that my workshop is both a woodworking and metalworking shop so I have half dedicated to each type of work. I am not quite finished in getting things tidied up. When I am I will post some pictures in order to show my situation.

Paul.


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## samthedog

There's no such thing as highjacking this thread ) It was only a show and tell thread anyway. I was initially looking at an Emco Star combination woodworkers kit. I ended up buying an Inca bandsaw, Inca planer thicknesser and a Lini tablesaw. These take up quite a lot of room but have paid for themselves. 

When I was insulating my garage the planks used for the inner walls were of random thickness so they were put through the thicknesser. It left an exceptional finish on the wood and solved the problem I had. 

My workshop used to be uninsulated but everything started rusting. My weekends were mainly used for rust control and given how cold it gets here, I couldn't use the machines for fear of breaking gears or belts since it was often -10 to -19 degrees Celcius.





The insulation and light paint made a huge difference on the light in the workshop. I since added 8 3 phase power points and about 14 single phase power double outletsm plus 8 double flourescent lights to keep it well lit. I have also added a security system since moving my metal work machines as well. It's nearly at a stage where I am happy with it. I just need to tile the floor and get rubber garage door seals to seal it up a little better. With the heater it hovers around 8 - 10 degrees C. With better seals it would mean lest electricity needed and money in my pocket.

Paul.


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## Starlight Tools

Paul

The Chippie was always my dream lathe.  Been drooling over it for 30 years now, but never found one available for sale in my area.  I went with the Gosan 1440V which is made in Taiwan by the company that makes the newer import Colchesters..

I just nixxed the Dickson QCTP and went with the Dorian V30TC, BXA sized with through coolant, locks so much better IMHO.

Walter


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## samthedog

Starlight Tools said:


> Paul
> 
> The Chippie was always my dream lathe.  Been drooling over it for 30 years now, but never found one available for sale in my area.  I went with the Gosan 1440V which is made in Taiwan by the company that makes the newer import Colchesters..
> 
> I just nixxed the Dickson QCTP and went with the Dorian V30TC, BXA sized with through coolant, locks so much better IMHO.
> 
> Walter



G'day Walter. I was dreaming of a Weiler Primus or an Emco V13. I didn't ever expect a Chipmaster to fall in to my lap however I have been biding my time and I did work a great deal to get the money needed to buy the little beast. I started with a crashed Emco V10 and sold it on, making a tidy profit. It took a lot of time to get it fixed up but in the end it came up looking good. I have added some picks since they tell the story of how I started on the road to my Chippie. How are you liking Gosan? They look very nice and if made to the specs of Colchesters like the Triumph, then it would have be decent.


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## Starlight Tools

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/844-Gosan-1440V-Metal-Lathe?highlight=GOSAN

Paul 

Here is the info on the Gosan.  I got it new about 3 years ago.  I tried once too often to stuff too large a work piece into the Logan 9x28 I had and got frustrated, so I leased this one.  It has been a real nice machine, fit and finish is definitely better than Chinese, electrics are good quality and the the lathe came with a VFD and DRO already installed.  It has a really good speed range and I find the size is just right, big enough to do the job, but not too large to be bulky.  Even doing really small work is good with it.  This factory is one of the "better"  Taiwanese manufacturer's of lathes and has been making the Colchester brand of lathes for a while now according to the supplier I got the lathe from.  Even had some Whitworth threaded bolts mixed in with the metric bolts on it.  LOL 

It came with the Dickson Holder and I found it to not hold as well as I preferred and the holders were not all that easy to get a hold of.  The supplier of the lathe was willing to bring them in for me, but at a price.  I went with the Dorian and now I can use the BXA holders, or the Dorian holders if I want the Through Coolant Feature.  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/844-Gosan-1440V-Metal-Lathe?highlight=GOSAN 

Walter


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## samthedog

Hello Walter. I checked out the links and your pictures. That lathe is impressive in it's fit and finish and the long list of features. I mean with one shot lubrication, forced spray lubrication in the headstock, oil bath apron etc...  I have not seen many other lathes with such a comprehensive list. Can I ask the price of the model you have....? I was looking at a badly mistreated Colchester Triumph 2000 that was similar to yours but it was priced at close to 4000 USD and needed serious electrical work. Your looks very similar and if they can be had for a reasonable price IF I ever was to upgrade again I would strongly consider a Gosan.

Paul.

Oh, and thanks for putting me onto Footmaster Castors. I will be getting a set for my lathe and mill )

Paul.


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## Starlight Tools

$14,500 CDN dollars plus $2060.00 CDN Dollars for the 2 Axis Acu-Rite 200S DRO Factory Installed.  Taxes extra and since they were shipping me the B&S #13 Freight prepaid, they added the lathe for no extra shipping charges.  The best featuture was that the lathe was in stock for immeadiate shipping.  It weighs 1650 Lbs and since I can not get a forklift into my shop, It was still within the weight capacity of my engine hoist.

The company I dealt with basicly deals with Industry.  They do not go after the home hobbyist market so all the machines they sell are industrial grade. 

My second and third choices at the time were the New SouthBend 14x40 but it was just shy of $20,000 CDN, weighed 3500 lbs and was still vapourware. (Will be out soon, but not sure when) and the Kent USA 14x40 lathe which is a misnomer as it is Taiwan made as well and about the same price and weight as the SB.

I sold the Logan 9x28 as a package for $2500 CDN so that paid for the DRO.

Glad you like the idea of the FootMaster Castors, they are under most of my stuff and will be under more when I can order another batch.

Walter


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## samthedog

Well I have an update...

I have found a supplier for the oil. *Shell Tellus 15* became *Shell Morlina 10*, then became *Morlina S2 BL *(Viscosity 10).

I could not order less than 20 litres so I will be well stocked for quite a few years. This is the ONLY oil that should be used with the Variator according to Kopp who manufacture them. I have also ordered 20 litres of Shell Tellus S22. 

This means I will now have a total of 60 litres of oil for the lathe sitting in the workshop. The good thing I guess is that the oils can also be used with my mill so I don't have to order seperate oil for each machine. I now also have the wiring mapped out so I will be changing things over this weekend and the oil should arrive next week. Things are starting to look up hew:

Paul.


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## samthedog

Hello Erik,

When it arrives I will get back to you as to how much it costs with freight. I am not in it to make money so I will find the cheapest alternative and tell you what it actually costs with no extra charges.

Paul.


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## jshaugjord

Hi guys,
My name is Jan Sverre, and I live quite close to the Australian up here in Norway, in Drammen. I have also aquired a Chippie, a metric model. Mind you, not in the same condition as the one from AB Industrimaskiner in Stockholm he bought (yes, I have been there a few times.. and can couch for the "mileage" to get there..), but it's coming along nicely. I have also moved through some different pieces of machinery, and having just departed with my Aciera F3 (round-head) and my Schaublin 102-VM/53, can vouch that the F3 is a very nice machine. So is the Schaublin of course, and though I am happy with my new find (mechanical variable speed up to 3K (I have "always" used VFD's so maybe I "have" to swop, but I will give the Klopp a chance), quick change gearbox, auto cross-feed, hard bed, large through hole etc.), I find they have cut corners abit in production as opposed to the Swiss (the Schaublin had a cast cabinet, swarf bed and a cabinet each side.. thick cast iron), as opposed to the steel plate built up Englishmans foundation. As may be evident from the picture I took in the "barn" it stood (halfway buried in snow and mud) was quite dirty, and somewhat rusty, especially the cabinet. (It was 20 below zero, and my friend depicted had a hard time keeping warm, so loaned my "workshop" jacket.. we just shifted all we could get loose, tailstock, accessories etc, and I came back 2 weeks later for the lathe itself). I cleaned off all the dirt from inside the cabinet, and voila, one of the bed welds just fell off.. Oopps, maybe I now have a chance to get the TIG/MMA/plasma welder from Stahlwerk I soo want (and now need), and use the time needed to complete the weldment.. or should I just pour in some Hammerite seal? Apart from this, it is an exciting (though tiring) period of refurb..

PS! Can I ask where you got hold of the variator oil? From a UK supplier?
PS! I have also evaluated the M&Z (Jungner) VF-600.. I saw one recently in South Sweden, and have also evaluated the one at (our) Stockholm dealer (did you see the Wahl mill there?)

Kind rgds
Jan Sverre
+4792036935
	

		
			
		

		
	

View attachment 44844
View attachment 44845


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## jshaugjord

Oh.. my first (and not last) blunder.. pictured is the lathe on arrival in garage.. here are the "as found" pictures
	

		
			
		

		
	

View attachment 44864

	

		
			
		

		
	
.
Yes, add a few spelling mistakes.. must be my keyboard ..ha.

View attachment 44862


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## jshaugjord

Hi Erik,

You're right.. wrong assumption on my part re, metric/inch.. Well, whatever, so the search begins for conversion changewheels.. (again)

I have access to some VFD's, yes. I'd say 2 hp would do, but I'll give the variator a chance anyway.

First I have to repaint the old lady, after the clean-up is done, and possibly re-weld.. it is going to be some weeks.

Cheers
Jan Sverre


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## samthedog

Hello Jan Sverre, congratulations on your purchase. I have ordered the oil from these guys:

http://www.gulesider.no/firma/olje-og-energi-senteret-shell-oljesenter:p10000939003

They had the Shell Tellus S22 in stock, but the Shell Morlina S2 BL10 as required by Kopp:

http://www.allspeeds.co.uk/wp-content/files_mf/whichoilshouldiuse79.pdf

is still on back order. They will contact me tomorrow about it's availability. They tried to sell me a different oil for the variator that had the same viscosity but I refused as Kopp are very clear in which oil must be used.

As for the Jungner VF600, it seems to be a good machine. It is more of an accurate and heavy drill press since it is quite a simple machine but is well suited to milling. It's simplicity means it is easy to repair bu compared to a Deckel or Aciera, it is very basic. You are more than welcome to stop by and have a look at my machines if you like. I am only 1/2 an hour away. Jeg kan også snakke Norsk, så du trenger ikke å være flau 

MVH,

Paul.


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## samthedog

I have a complete set of changewheels for my Chippie :thumbzup:

I have been thinking about speaking to an engineering shop and seeing how much they could reproduce them for. I can see a bit of a market for them. The main challenge is cutting the keyways into the gears. If I had gear stock and a shaper I would make these myself.

Paul.


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## citizen kane

I also have the problem of missing gears on my Chipmaster Continental so I spent some time in the garage today making some alloy splined bosses. The bosses are twice as thick as a gear, 50mm OD with a 30mm diameter shoulder cut to the same thickness as a gear. I can then buy these http://www.hpcgears.com/newpdf/spurgears_14dp.pdf and bore the centre out, all I need to do is put a few drive pins in and I'm done.


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## samthedog

Erik, the extra gears opens up your options. I was very lucky to have a full set included but to my understanding they are very difficult to find. This would explain why Citizen Kane made those excellent boss sets (good work BTW!!). There are a large number of Chippies out there with owners who would love a set of wheels, wether for the collection factor or to use. It would be a nice little money spinner I'm sure.

Paul.

PS. I am still waiting on the oil. In typical Norwegian service-midedness, I have been promised that my order has been placed and then had all manner of delays for all manner of reasons. Now I am told it was actually never sent to the supplier in the first place... *sigh*

Paul.


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## jshaugjord

Hi guys,

Just back from London, hence the delay..

Re. gears for the Chipmaster, I see from the manual that even the gears in the standard config for the inch version allows some metric threads. As I understand, there are extra gears allowing a further number of threads to be cut.. Are they the same as available from rdgtools in the UK?
http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/Gears_for_Colchester_Bantam_Chipmaster_Lathe_.html

Thanks for the hints on where to source oils!

Also, thanks for the invitation.. don't be surprised if I turn up in Hvittingfoss!

Kind rgds
Jan Sverre


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## jshaugjord

Hi again guys,

I have asked RDG Tools about the information on their webpage for change gears for the Chipmaster. Response as follows:

hi there

very sorry we don't do any 6 spline gears and there are two different models of the chipmaster one is 6 spline and the other is 8 spline i dont think he is going to develop any sorry you would have to hunt down second hand gears i  think as nobody does them.

regards  chris
The _WWW.RDGTOOLS.CO.UK_ (http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/)


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## samthedog

I have received the oil today! I will start to organize the O rings and seals needed to stop the leaks. I want to be able to add oil and not have to keep topping up and mopping oil off the floor. I was planning on taking photos of the process of changing seals. I figure most Chipmaster owners will have the same problems.

Have any of you guys made replacements for the way wipers? I was going to order some neoprene sheet and make a pattern to start producing them. I heard Colchester sells a set for $370 USD :nuts:

Paul.


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## samthedog

The leaks are around the clutch shaft itself. There is usually a drop of oil at any one time on the bottom of the clutch and there is a pool of oil in the bottom of the hinged cover.

I think the solution is to take the clutch shaft out, and replace the O rings. I think I will replace all the seals and O rings if I am going to do the clutch. I am suspecting that there is also a leak from the back of the spindle. I have considered just leaving it as is but it will bug me if I know it's leaking oil. I may as well give it an overhaul and get everything fixed properly.

Paul.


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## samthedog

Ah OK. I have noticed that there is a grease nipple above the clutch shaft that is designed to form a barrier to stop the oil leaking out. I will try adding more grease first before I take the clutch apart. I will also be removing the headstock completely if I overhaul the clutch and spindle seals. It's a heck of a lot easier doing this on a clean desk than on the lathe.

Paul.


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## samthedog

I have finally sorted out the electrics of my lathe and it seems to be running well. I have changed the voltage successfully from 400 volts to 230 volts. I went through the speed range on the variator and it works very well. It is smooth and makes little to no noise )

The next step will be fixing the oil leak from the clutch shaft. I will try to follow this process with pictures and specifications of the o rings and seals used so others can use this as a guide. It seems these leaks are a common issue with Chippies.

Paul.


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