# 7x10 CNC conversion



## Blackhawk (Jan 12, 2013)

Getting around to converting my 7x10, need a little help if possible? 

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/4hIaNVtVXS4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

http://youtu.be/4hIaNVtVXS4

thanks

lanham


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## Blackhawk (Jan 13, 2013)

Found the problem, it was a issue with Mach, will post another video later.  I still can't figure out how embed videos

lanham


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## Blackhawk (Jan 13, 2013)

Got it running now time to tune

lanham


http://youtu.be/Xq6jh-Y52DA


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Xq6jh-Y52DA?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


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## jumps4 (Jan 15, 2013)

lanham
to embed the videos in you post . on the screen when your posting there is a menu at the top under where title goes
on row 2 the right side there is an icon that looks like film, click on it and the video url goes in there.
that will make a nice little lathe, I have been working on my 9x20 but i'm still not finished 
steve


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## jumps4 (Jan 15, 2013)

here is a helpful tip:
i found this on the mach site. to calibrate the axis's for your lathe start mach3 in mill mode and use the axis calibration in the settings screen there.
check and set your backlash compensation first
then go to the motor tuning screen in mill do a calabration and write down what it set the motors to.
take that and then start machturn and use those numbers in the lathe motor tuning.
it works really well
to keep from messing up your mill settings for the zx45. clone mach3mill in the startup list, name the clone test and use it for testing the lathe with a mill screen
steve


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## Blackhawk (Jan 11, 2014)

[video]http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yVbTJrbLSWc[/video]

just can't figure this out, any ideas

lanham


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## jumps4 (Jan 11, 2014)

If you still have my number call
if not pm me and i'll give you the number
it's an easy fix by phone

steve


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## awander (Jan 11, 2014)

Your 7x10 profile seems to be using the Mach3Mill screen and moving the axes correctly(though both are backwards-Z should go positive as it moves away from the headstock, while X should go positive as it moves toward you(away from the lathe centerline), while the mach3turn profile is using the correct Mach3turn screens, but moving the wrong axes.

I see that you do have the same port/pin set for the axes in both profiles, which seems to indicate that one of them is corrupted, but it would be helpful to know which DRO on the mach screen changes when the axes move in each setup. It is possible that Mach is working perfectly but that there is something wrong in your pendant setup-how is that pendant attached? Is it USB, serial, or another method?

Why are you using 2 different profiles? Pick one of them, and get it to work correctly. Do you know how to load a screenset?&nbsp;Since your 7x10 profile is moving the correct axes, I would just load the mach3turn screen set in that profile, and call it a day.

Andy


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## jumps4 (Jan 11, 2014)

the pentant has to be setup for each profile you go into. setting it in mill did not set it in turn.
go to the hotkeys screen and set it up then reverse your direction settings in motor inputs by checking or unchecking the dir box to make the axis move negative when you request a negative move.
steve


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## Blackhawk (May 11, 2014)

Having another problem if anyone can help me out[video=youtube_share;qQBKslbP6h8]http://youtu.be/qQBKslbP6h8[/video]


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## jumps4 (May 11, 2014)

hi
look at the pic on the screen it shows you starting at "0" and working out on the depth. notice the light blue is half of the material diameter.
x start is the diameter of the stock to be threaded 3/8 .375 (if your in diameter mode and you should use diameter mode the mach3 screen says the mode upper left)
x end equals the diameter of the stock minus the thread depth times 2
z 0 start should be the right end of your stock
z end is in minus like -1.000 if your going to thread 1 inch
tool change should be a positive z away from the end of your material like 1.000 or 1 inch to the right of the end of the stock
and x tool change should also be positive out away from your stock. in this case 1.0 is larger than the stock diameter of .375 and that should be safely clear of the stock.
there should also be another setting I think its "clearance or lead " and it is the distance out in front of the end of the stock to start the thread cycle so all the play has been taken up and spindle speed is settled in. it's normally about a tenth of and inch.


steve


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## Blackhawk (May 12, 2014)

Got it 
thanks steve
ill give it a shot a little later

lanham


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## Blackhawk (May 13, 2014)

Steve,

i made the changes and its doing the same thing,


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## Blackhawk (May 13, 2014)

Never mind, I think I figured it out

lanham


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## Blackhawk (May 14, 2014)

[video=youtube_share;NTr6iV_dClU]http://youtu.be/NTr6iV_dClU[/video]This is getting frustrating


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## Blackhawk (May 14, 2014)

This is getting so frustrating, any ideas?


[video=youtube_share;Df9Sb5_bacc]http://youtu.be/Df9Sb5_bacc[/video]

lanham


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## jumps4 (May 15, 2014)

Z axis has to move fast enough to keep up with the rpm
the over feed rate warning means that the z axis cannot travel fast enough to thread at the rpm the spindle is turning. set the x and z velocity as fast as it will move without loosing steps in motor tuning. when threading I take .002 max per pass and 3 spring passes. you need an older version of mach3 to thread the latest version wont work. they are writing mach4 because of these problems and others but mach3 older versions work better. I'm not in the shop I'll see what version I finally got working.
steve


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## Jfong (May 19, 2014)

Did you get your threading to work?  I watched your last video and noticed your pitch was set at .440. You didn't say what type of thread you wanted to make but that setting seems awfully large.


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## Don B (May 19, 2014)

Blackhawk said:


> This is getting so frustrating, any ideas?



Very interesting thread, I hope you get things sorted out, one question please, am I understanding correctly that your using the motor that came with the lathe and there is a pickup of sorts to read the RPM for timing purposes..?:thinking:


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