# Igaging Dro



## chuckorlando (Feb 26, 2014)

I have seen these kits a few times. I was wondering just how accurate they were? Has anyone checked them against a decent indicator?

They seem like a nice little deal for basic movement reading


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## Charley Davidson (Feb 26, 2014)

I put a 24" scale on my Mitutoyo height gauge that had the dial indicator broken. I compared it to another height gauge I have and it was spot on & repeated. I have since removed it and installed it on my Bridgeport & am in the process of mounting them on the remaining axis' today. 
So far they get 2 thumbs up

Charley


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## chuckorlando (Feb 26, 2014)

Sweet. I was hoping to hear that.


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## rgray (Feb 26, 2014)

chuckorlando said:


> I have seen these kits a few times. I was wondering just how accurate they were? Has anyone checked them against a decent indicator?
> 
> They seem like a nice little deal for basic movement reading



They can be helpfull. I have the accupro on my lathe. I had an igaging also But like the accupro better. The display turns off on the igaging and I have to keep turning it back on...the accupro stays on once turned on so I just have to buy more batteries when I forget to turn it off (accually batteries last a long time)(get them off ebay cheap).
They are pretty much reference only then use the marks on your wheels. I have the glass scales on my mill and these are nothing like those.
Got mine from Dave (on this site) find his add in the classifieds(best price I found)
If you're gonna use coolant you're gonna need a shield to keep them dry. Once wet they just start counting continuously....wipe down..apply wd-40 and they will work again after a few min.


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## davidh (Feb 26, 2014)

rgray;
If you're gonna use coolant you're gonna need a shield to keep them dry. Once wet they just start counting continuously....wipe down..apply wd-40 and they will work again after a few min.[/QUOTE said:
			
		

> good information to share. thanks very much. . .


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## Ray C (Feb 26, 2014)

I got a set of these from DavidH on my lathe.  Perfect for my needs.  I made them to be quickly removable if things ever really need to get messy.  Indeed, if they get wet the sensor goes whacky but, comes back to life once you blow and air dry them.  This would be unacceptable in most cases but I'm willing to deal with it.  If I had to take a guess, they're only accurate +/- 2 to 3 thou over their full length.  The scales flex quite a bit and that introduces error.  When I run the compound or carriage to a position and back, it's usually off a few thou...  It's still fine for 95% of everything I need to do on a lathe.  When I really want something dead on, I pull out the big guns (good quality mics and calipers).

I think these are a great alternative for people on a tight budget or for folks with machines where DRO is overkill.  I am glad DavidH is taking care of us with good prices and decent quality.  I like doing business with someone that has skin in the game.


Ray


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## rgray (Feb 26, 2014)

Ray C said:


> If I had to take a guess, they're only accurate +/- 2 to 3 thou over their full length.  The scales flex quite a bit and that introduces error.  When I run the compound or carriage to a position and back, it's usually off a few thou..
> Ray




I noticed a little flexing and figured that was introducing some error. I thought of mounting them by drilling a hole in the end of the bar, and attaching to a post that had a some kind of ecentric that would pull tension on the bar. 
Might be over kill, but may cut the error.
Hardened stainless is tough to drill, but I managed it on a set of calipers once with a carbide bit.


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## FanMan (Feb 26, 2014)

I haven't checked mine with an indicator but they're spot on with the marks on the wheels.  If they're a couple thou off over 24" who cares, I don't make parts that big anyway.  They're more accurate this this amateur machinist is or likely ever will be.


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## Ray C (Feb 26, 2014)

rgray said:


> I noticed a little flexing and figured that was introducing some error. I thought of mounting them by drilling a hole in the end of the bar, and attaching to a post that had a some kind of ecentric that would pull tension on the bar.
> Might be over kill, but may cut the error.
> Hardened stainless is tough to drill, but I managed it on a set of calipers once with a carbide bit.



Hope you didn't get the wrong impression... I'm not knocking these units at all.  They are fine for a lot of people for a lot of things.  Their stated accuracy is (depending on what literature you read) +/- 0.001".  I think that's how accurate the tracking head can operate but speaks nothing about the method of mounting and flex.  Since I have a set of these and have looked things over carefully, they seem to work within +/- 2 or 3 thou for most things.  -And for most things, that's good enough.

Higher end DROs have stated accuracy of 0.0002 or 0.0001" inch.  That's a joke really.  For all practical purposes, no lathe or mill that anyone here can afford is going to produce finished quality in those tolerance ranges.  In cases where things are really critical a homeshop machinist will only need to get within +/- 0.0005".  For all my general purpose work, I aspire to keep things within +/- 0.00075 (or better).  If you practice long enough, you'll find it's not hard to do.  On rare occasion I really need something to be -0.0000, +0.0003 and in such cases, I rely on DRO to get me close but use the mics to finish off...

For every digit in the 4th decimal place to the right (i.e. 0.0005 vs 0.0004 vs 0.0003...), it takes about 10-20 minutes more setup time and double checking before you make the cut.  In the 0.0004 and below range, you need your thermometer and expansion tables handy.

Moral of the story, for folks with vintage machines or hobby-class stuff who are drilling holes in aluminum, those Igaging DROs are fine 90% of your work.  If you're making precision parts or doing gunsmith work, use good DROs, Mics and Calipers etc...

Ray


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## chuckorlando (Feb 26, 2014)

I was thinking of a set for my little lathe. I cant see paying more for dro's then I paid for the whole machine. In school we have some nice fancy dro's and I would not rely on them to get me to the number. But if it can get me close enough reliably to start mic'ing the work, thats all I need. I hate counting handles when your not even close. And if you ever bumbed the zero dial or forgot where you were at counting, dro makes things a little easier.

Thanks for taking the time


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## kizmit99 (Feb 26, 2014)

I mounted a set of the AccuRemote scales to my G0402 mill and I swear they seem to have about .003 of "backlash".  Approaching a position from one direction, they seem to 'return to zero' pretty well, approach from the other direction and they're "off" by about 3 thousandths.  I mounted them using PVC in an attempt to ensure I had no possibility of a current ground loop (I'm also using Yuriy's Android based DRO).  I'm not convinced the backlash isn't introduced by the PVC mounting blocks, so I'm currently rebuilding them in aluminum.

As most folks have already said, don't expect them to be perfect, don't expect them to be nearly as accurate as a "real" DRO (discalimer: I have no experience with a "real" DRO to compare) and you won't be disappointed.  For what they are, and the price point, these scales seem to be a winner.


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## fastback (Feb 26, 2014)

On my lathe I set up a dial indicator at the cross slide and find that this does the job just fine.  In fact, I use the cheap indicators from HF, they are also rated at +/- .001.  I always use a mike to check for the final dimension. 

 On my tailstock I use a 4-inch digital caliper.  This set up works well unless I need to turn between centers.  It gets in the way of the cutting tool.  I don't have one of those square tail stocks mine is 1942 round Southbend.  At some point I'll need to design something a little better so it does not get in the way.  Very happy with he digital setup. 

I do have one of David's 6 inch direct read DRO's on my mill and I like it.  This was a recent addition.  Mine is the AccuRemote.  I think its just a tad more accurate than the Ingaging DRO.  

Paul


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## bladehunter (Feb 26, 2014)

I used to have that problem on just one axis on my mill (well one read head). 
I replaced the original cables with heavier shieded type cables.
I cleaned and I scrubbed and it was still having a "reset" problem, twas driving me totally insane.

I built Yuri's DRO based on the Arduino, I used a 3.3v nano, and (insert bad word here) me if it was still happening.

What did the trick for me was putting a 100n cap across the +Ve and Gnd (as per Yuri's circuit) fixed the problem and has been right as rain ever since.

If you have the skill it may be just a case of opening the read head and (if there is room) soldering a 100n cap across the +Ve and Gnd.

I know the iGaging scales aren't there with glass scales but I feel for my skill level they are doing just fine ATM and making life a lot easier.

Yuri's Android\Arduino\Igaging setup is a winner :thumbsup: . Unfornately I haven't got a Android tablet but did manage to install Android 4.0 on an Acer netbook. Works great apart from not having a touchscreen. Bluetooth is definitely much better way to connect than USB (well for me). 
Hope this helps
Rob


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## Hawkeye (Feb 26, 2014)

I have iGaging DROs on two mills and two lathes. They help me get close, but I always check final sizes with calipers or micrometers anyway. They're absolutely necessary on the big Storebro lathe. The feed screws are metric.

Pretty good bang for the buck.


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## GK1918 (Feb 27, 2014)

Call it the test of time.  Not one problem, same batterys , I have even left it on once.  I think these are more accurite than the dials, although
they both read the same.  Since day one my epoxied scales have'nt moved a bit.   My very first test after the epoxy cured was a six bolt hole
I just touched off a center drill just macking a dot, measured with dividers it was right on the money.  I also bought the longest scales off Davidh, cause
mine is a 10 x 54, next I'm putting one on the knee.  The display could be a little larger and back lit, but I'm not complaining.  The more I think of
dials, is how good my eyes place it, how acurite did they stamp the tick marks.  If one can get say  .0015 on the dial your better than me, but I now
can with these dros.  So they were payed for the first day in use, and now almost a year same batterys - I got no complaints even it they take a dump.
for that price
sam


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