# My Version of a King Way Alignment Tool



## ThunderDog (Jan 9, 2018)

First, if this thread is deemed double posting on the forum please feel free to take it down as I'm sharing my restoration process of my Sheldon lathe and the images below are there, too.  I wanted to share progress of my take on the King Way Alignment Tool.  I have never seen one in person, nor have I had any training in measurement of machine tools or scraping.  It's all part of wanting to learn.

Ok, with that out of the way I have a question for the level/vial setup.
 I've seen pics of this tool showing an attachment that has the level attached to a block secured to the crossbar.  I'm wondering if it is possible to create a block that still slides along the crossbar, but has a channel or method to simply place a machinists level onto it.  Thus, avoiding the expense of having to buy a vial that is permanently attached to the tool.  I suppose a concern may be that the machinist level could move if not secured, right?  Anyway, just thinking out loud.  If that should be avoided, I'm looking to buy a level from Geier-Bluhm.   Also, according to the drawings that I've found the ball side still needs a cup.


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## 4GSR (Jan 9, 2018)

Yeah, you need some kind of washer.  Doesn't have to be conical to match the ball, but with a 45 degree chamfer on the edge and polished real good to smooth out any tool marks, so the ball moves around on it okay.

Nice job so far.  Remember, the levels they use on them is very accurate, like 0.0005" in 10".


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## 4GSR (Jan 9, 2018)

I suggest we change the title to something generic.  The words "King Way" may be trademarked by Richard and I don't want to do something here that would cause conflict.  IF you have something in mind tell me and I'll change it.  Say we call it the Thunder Dog alignment jig?

Ken


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## benmychree (Jan 9, 2018)

I have a KingWay alignment tool that I built using some extra parts that I bought from Richard and completed myself; Would you like some pics. of the level part?  The levels, both cross and long axis are adjustable for zero.    BTW, the part that contacts the vee way is radiused where it contacts the way surface.


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## ThunderDog (Jan 9, 2018)

4gsr said:


> I suggest we change the title to something generic.  The words "King Way" may be trademarked by Richard and I don't want to do something here that would cause conflict.  IF you have something in mind tell me and I'll change it.  Say we call it the Thunder Dog alignment jig?
> 
> Ken


How about just calling it an alignment tool?  I definitely don't want to cause any trouble so name it whatever you wish and I sincerely apologize for that.


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## benmychree (Jan 9, 2018)

No need to change or feel badly about my post; it is a KingWay.


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## 4GSR (Jan 9, 2018)

ThunderDog said:


> How about just calling it an alignment tool?  I definitely don't want to cause any trouble so name it whatever you wish and I sincerely apologize for that.


How about the changed title now?


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## benmychree (Jan 9, 2018)

here are pictures showing my Kingway alignment tool with the level vial arrangement.  This before the second level vial was installed and the castings were wrinkle finish painted.


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## ThunderDog (Jan 9, 2018)

benmychree said:


> here are pictures showing my Kingway alignment tool with the level vial arrangement.  This before the second level vial was installed and the castings were wrinkle finish painted.


Very helpful, thanks for sharing.


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## benmychree (Jan 9, 2018)

ThunderDog said:


> Very helpful, thanks for sharing.


I could take pics of more details if you need them.


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## Mr Mike (Jan 10, 2018)

Good thread, ill be watching.... Nice work on the tool so far.


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## Bob Korves (Jan 10, 2018)

ThunderDog said:


> I'm wondering if it is possible to create a block that still slides along the crossbar, but has a channel or method to simply place a machinists level onto it. Thus, avoiding the expense of having to buy a vial that is permanently attached to the tool.


I would be concerned that the alignment jig could pretty easily be bumped, and your level(s) bounced off the floor or the lathe.  The permanent mounting is classy, but dedicated.  It might also be possible to make some hold down clamps to hold the levels to the bracket temporarily, that would be safer for the levels.  Even a bungee cord might be a low tech solution.


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## benmychree (Jan 10, 2018)

A requirement for the cross level is that it needs to be adjustable; a machinist's level would not satisfy that requirement, and ordinary machinist's levels have only .005" per ft. graduations, when .0005" per ft. is the requirement.  The .005" PF level would have very little, if any value for alignment purposes; I use one to rough level a machine, then go on to the .0005" level for final leveling.


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## benmychree (Jan 10, 2018)

Here are some close up details on the Kingway fixture, especially showing the mounting and adjustment provisions for the level vials; note that the stationary end is mounted solidly to a plate which pivots on a pin through the protective housing, the adjustable end has a fine threaded adjustment that acts against a spring under the end plug of the vial housing. pic. #1 shows the unit in the box. The shoe that the ball on the left side of pic. 2 is made of Delrin.
pic. #4 shows the two vials and housings mounted together; I take it apart to store it in the box to take up less room.
Pic. #5 shows the spring under the vial end plug and its adjusting knob.
#6 shows the level housing removed from the cross level housing. There is a washer on the knob shaft to hold the long level away from the cross housing so that it can be smoothly adjusted.
#7 shows the same part from another angle.
#8 shows the swivel and rod that attaches a dial indicator to the unit; all the swivels used are Brown & Sharpe products and were found on e bay. They lock up quite rigidly "like a rock".

Rich King tells me that there were 3 sizes of the Kingway fixture, HK 100 with 3/8" rods, HK 200 with 3/4" rods and HK 300 with 1-1/4 diameter rods; the one I am showing is the HK 200.  For most of us, the HK 100 would likely be the best choice.


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## astjp2 (Feb 2, 2018)

You can use a carbide cutter for the end of the ball, I have one that came out of a large Ingersoll ball end mill, it is like an inch in diameter and really smooth.  
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
  It does not have to be perfectly round, just flat with a hole in it.


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