# Grizzly G0750G metal lathe preliminary observations



## billooms

I recently received my Grizzly G0570G metal lathe. I've had some issues with it and I've started a new thread with my experiences and observations that I'll update as I go along

The G0750G is a direct descendent of the G4003G -- many of the part numbers are the same. The lathe may appear to be the same as the PM1236, but it is actually quite different. Talking with Mat, he says they are made in different factories. I asked for a copy of the PM1236 manual, but I never received it so I can't tell you all the differences.

When I called Grizzly back in May, they said they were out of stock and had 15 back-orders queued up. Earliest delivery might be in late June. I place my order on May 29 and received an email saying estimated delivery was pushed out to August 29. Then a few days later, I got an email that said it had in fact shipped on 5/31. Go figure! I guess the inventory people aren't connected well with the order desk. 

It arrived in fine condition on 6/10. By the time I got it cleaned up and lifted up on the stand (with an engine hoist) it was a week later. They provided a multi-page listing of machine specs (run-out and such) along with actual measurements on my machine (all of which were well within the limits). It was a nice surprise having the factory measurements on my machine.

Doing the recommended spindle break-in, there was a lot of oil spewing out of a small hole in the headstock cover (apparently an air hole?). At the suggestion of Grizzly tech support, I plugged the hole and continued with the break-in. Then I noticed there was also a lot of oil leaking from the back of the headstock cover onto the electrical panel. I removed the cover and discovered that the inside surface of the cover was not machined flat -- just the rough casting coming in contact with gasket. Furthermore, the cover was warped sufficiently so that it was not seating on the gasket. Grizzly agreed to send a replacement cover and gasket (should be here tomorrow). Note that these parts are the same as the G4003G machine, so this is not due to a design change. Probably just a result of them trying to get the machine out faster. 

After the break-in period, the v-belts were generating excessive amounts of powdered belt material which turned to goo with the grease on the end gears. This was due to the finished surfaces of the pulleys having been painted and rough edges on the pulleys. I cleaned up the pulleys and that should take card of the problem. Grizzly is sending new v-belts. 

One of the cam-lock studs for the faceplate were not threaded all the way -- Grizzly is sending a replacement.

At this point in time, I've not done any actual cutting. Once I get the replacement parts I'll be able to give it a better test drive. I have no complaints about Grizzly customer service through all of this. They've been very helpful. As I mentioned earlier, none of these things seem to be a result of the new design. More likely because of the rush to get machines out to people. 

My biggest disappointment is that you still need to manually change end gears for cutting most common threads. I had thought that with all those knobs on the gear box one would be able to obtain just about any combination. I don't mind having to change an end gear for metric -- that's sort of expected to get the 127 tooth gear into play. With the "standard" end gears, you can only cut 4/8/16/32 and 5/10/20/40 tpi. For any other tpi one must change end gears (8 different ones provided). I don't understand why they put so many combinations on the gear box that don't translate into useful tpi. It's fine for setting various feed rates, but not for thread cutting. If you do a lot of thread cutting, you might consider other options. 

Other annoyances -- the carriage handwheel moves the carriage about 0.665" per revolution. This is a strange number. If you need to move the carriage some precise distance (2.25" for example) you'll need to do some math or else set up a dial indicator to measure the distance. 

The set screw for the graduated dial on the handwheel is very inconvenient -- its on the right when "0" is on the line. It's really hard to get an allen wrench under the cross slide handwheel to tighten it. 

I'll add more comments later in the week as I (hopefully) get to do some cutting.


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## george wilson

Sounds like a real winner! I have had no problems with my 16x40 Grizzly,but it was made in Taiwan and I bought it in 1986. I'd hate to ever have to buy any mainland Chinese machine. I did buy a Chinese Bridgeport type for work due to limited museum money. It was way too high on the front edge of the table. There is supposed to be a little extra height on the front edge of the table to allow for cutting pressure. This was way beyond spec.. I re wrapped it and sent it back to MSC.

Those lathes that have a QC box,but still require a bunch of gear changing to cut all the possible threads are really annoying. I saw a Kent that was really bad in that respect(and others too). I think it's just poor engineering.


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## billooms

Update: The replacement headstock cover came today -- it's the wrong size. Either they sent the wrong part, or else the part number in the manual is incorrect. The part number indicated that it was the same headstock as the 4003G. Now I'm thinking it's really a different design and they didn't update the part number in the manual.

Also, the quick change tool post is defective. It's not a Phase II tool post. One of the pistons is longer than the other and doesn't fully retract so you can't slide a tool holder onto the dovetail. 

We'll see how they handle these problems.


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## davidh

billooms said:


> Other annoyances -- the carriage handwheel moves the carriage about 0.665" per revolution. This is a strange number. If you need to move the carriage some precise distance (2.25" for example) you'll need to do some math or else set up a dial indicator to measure the distance.
> 
> The set screw for the graduated dial on the handwheel is very inconvenient -- its on the right when "0" is on the line. It's really hard to get an allen wrench under the cross slide handwheel to tighten it.
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> 
> so i'd betcha a 36" dro like I mounted on my atlas would mount on the back of your too.  then you can forget  a lot of the figuring on that level anyway. . ..   :  just sayin, and I have a bunch of them left.......
> (a shameless sales plug by me)
> 
> davidh


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## billooms

I agree. A DRO would be best. I'll wait until I get this thing running and cutting before I make any modifications or additions to it.


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## george wilson

Not that I need another lathe,but you are really discouraging me from getting another Grizzly!! My current 16x40 was made in Taiwan,and has been fine,but 1986 was when it was made,and I think things might have been better back then.


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## Rbeckett

I would hock my soul for some good old American Iron... I have decided I really want a new mill, but unfortaunately I am going to have to take what I can afford which will be much less than I would really like to have.  Oh well, better to have a little less than none at all....

Bob
EDIT..
I would hock my soul for just about any machine right now too.  Didn't mean to cast any dispersions on Asian stuff, especially since all of mine came from Asia through Harbor Freight for the most part.  I would be especially thankful for an "issue" free machine of whatever brand I manage to get.  Sorry for not being completely clear in the above post and misleading anybody.


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## Ray C

Bob,

While I love traditionalism, my soul wants me to get one of these in 1440 variable speed or, if I should win the lottery a 1640 variable version.

http://www.machinetoolonline.com/PM1660G.html

As far as new production manual lathes are concerned, this is about as good as they come.  Pro-line stuff, 100%.

As for you and I... wherever our souls go when our bodies are done using them, I hope they each get the kind of equipment they want and don't have to worry about such worldly issues as being able to afford them...

Ray






Rbeckett said:


> I would hock my soul for some good old American Iron... I have decided I really want a new mill, but unfortaunately I am going to have to take what I can afford which will be much less than I would really like to have. Oh well, better to have a little less than none at all....
> 
> Bob


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## billooms

Wednesday update: The gasket and v-belts arrived yesterday and they were also the wrong parts. Grizzly agrees that their part numbers for the new G0750G must be incorrect and they are trying to sort out which are the correct part numbers (and then see if they can find the parts). The manual shows the parts are the same as used on the G4003G, but that is clearly not the case.

They are shipping a new quick change tool post out today.

They claim that this new machine is made in an ISO9001 certified factory. I'm wondering.


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## epanzella

There seems to be some "new machine" bugs with the 750G. I don't know if I just got lucky but my G4003G that I bought a few months ago was near perfect. The setscrew on the motor pulley was loose and one of the cam studs on my 3 jaw needed to be turned in 2 more turns for a full lockup. Other than than that, it was good to go.


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## wankle

how is the G4003G in regards to treading? Is there a lot of gear changes too?





epanzella said:


> There seems to be some "new machine" bugs with the 750G. I don't know if I just got lucky but my G4003G that I bought a few months ago was near perfect. The setscrew on the motor pulley was loose and one of the cam studs on my 3 jaw needed to be turned in 2 more turns for a full lockup. Other than than that, it was good to go.


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## epanzella

wankle said:


> how is the G4003G in regards to treading? Is there a lot of gear changes too?


For SAE threading there's no gear changes at all from 4 to 112 TPI. For metric threads, there are some gear changes, but not that many as there's only 6 change gears. I think each gear setup does about a third of the pitches. I'm just going by the owners manual and threading chart on the machine. I've only cut SAE threads to date.


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## billooms

If I have to send this machine back (still a possibility) I think I'll get a 4003G instead. All these gear changes for SAE threads is bad.


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## metalmole

Man, sorry to hear your troubles with the lathe, I have a 4003 I have had for 9 years and its been a very good little machine, only had to replace a motor starter on it in all those years, it has paid for itself many times over. It sounds crazy that you would need to change gears for standard threads, that would be a deal breaker for me. Sounds like Grizzly got lazy and didn't do the research on this new model they are selling....sounds like they have a fair amount of bugs to get worked out.....I think the Chinese are like others, some plants make good machines and some make whatever they can get out the door....I would like to know how many different companies in China are making lathes for Grizzly


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## epanzella

It's strange that the 750G needs gear changes for SAE threading when the transmission has 4 knobs on it. You would think that would be enough control to make gear changes unnecessary. The PM 1236 transmission looks similar with 4 knobs and even though I don't have one I haven't heard anyone complaining about gear changes.  Is it possible the manual is wrong?


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## Ray C

Yes, the 1236 does require some gear changes.  There are (I think) six change gears.  They all can do certain ranges of threads by changing the lower knobs on the gearbox but, some gear changes are needed when you go outside that range.  It's all printed on the gear chart.

All lathes that have the same gearbox type as the 1236 will work this way.  As a matter of fact, this is one of the cost differentiators for lathes.  If you want a fully "automatic transmission" it takes more gears and there's more to assemble -and thus, pushes you into the next price-range of a lathe.

...

All factories in China and Taiwan offer machines by what options you want and what quality control measures and re-work the distributor is willing to pay for.  Stuff that doesn't make the top grade gets sold at lower prices to other distributors.


Ray





epanzella said:


> It's strange that the 750G needs gear changes for SAE threading when the transmission has 4 knobs on it. You would think that would be enough control to make gear changes unnecessary. The PM 1236 transmission looks similar with 4 knobs and even though I don't have one I haven't heard anyone complaining about gear changes.  Is it possible the manual is wrong?


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## epanzella

Ray C said:


> Yes, the 1236 does require some gear changes.  There are (I think) six change gears.  They all can do certain ranges of threads by changing the lower knobs on the gearbox but, some gear changes are needed when you go outside that range.  It's all printed on the gear chart.
> 
> All lathes that have the same gearbox type as the 1236 will work this way.  As a matter of fact, this is one of the cost differentiators for lathes.  If you want a fully "automatic transmission" it takes more gears and there's more to assemble -and thus, pushes you into the next price-range of a lathe.
> 
> ...
> 
> All factories in China and Taiwan offer machines by what options you want and what quality control measures and re-work the distributor is willing to pay for.  Stuff that doesn't make the top grade gets sold at lower prices to other distributors.
> 
> 
> Ray


Didn't know that, Ray, thanks for the update. I guess it's no big deal as I've never heard a bad word about the PM 1236.
Ed P


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## Ray C

And one more thing...  There are only about 5-6 basic styles of lathe bed and gearbox among the "modern" machines and this is true of lathes, mills and similar equipment.  There are a smaller number of foundries in China and Taiwan who produce the raw castings.  From there, there are a few more manufacturers who purchase the raw castings, do the heat treating, grinding and final assembly.  You'll find that the beds among say a 36" lathe is the same as what's used on many brands.  The differences are the selection of knobs (fancy vs. basic) and other basic options such as spindle bore diameter, variable speed options, paint job, etched numbers instead of labels etc...  From there, a US distributor gets to pick the quality level which includes the level and consistency of heat treating, quality in closeness of grinding specifications and quality of leadscrew.  Think about a 1911 pistol...  The pattern is made by many and the parts are (with a little fit and finish) interchangeable.  You can buy custom parts or generic stuff that fits every frame.  It's pretty-much the same deal with this kind of equipment...

The quality that ends-up in the customer's hands depends on what the importer pays the factory to produce and how much of a relationship they have with the manufacturer to ensure good quality.  Some US distributors check each and every machine before they go on the truck.  Others don't and play the numbers game that some flaws will go undetected by less experienced users.

Also keep in mind there are "light industrial" lines of equipment and "pro-quality".  Pro-quality stuff will weigh a little more, the gears in the gearbox will be heavier duty, you'll have chromed leadscrews, better scraping under the carriage, higher rockwell on the hardened parts, balanced internal gears, wider roller bearings or three or four bearing on the spindle instead of two, higher horsepower motors, pressurized oil systems instead of splash distribution etc.  This pushes you about up about 30% - 50% more in price.

Both types of machines are only as good as the operator and both cut well.  The main difference is what you need/want. Toyotas have always been good enough for me and a Mercedes would only interest me if I were a wealthy traveling salesman who drove the Autobahn every day...


Ray


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## Chipbuff

Boy, for once impatience has paid off. I was "jonesin" for a G0750G when the whole back order thing came about. They told me Nov.-Dec. 2013 for delivery. Since I had sold my Logan I could not remain idle for that period of time. I decided (or they did for me) to go ahead and get the G4003G. Great decision I was forced into. I have had it about 2 months now and have not had a single issue. Every thing arrived very promptly, was packaged securely with no damage and assembled quickly and easily (cleaning every thing as I went).

I had some fringe comming off of the drive belts and did the same thing as mentioned. Cleaned the pulleys and adjusted the belt alignment and tension and problem solved. I will look into the new information on the lube holes that are not exposed.

I was the original post response on the Power Punch. That can be found a most NAPA stores and many transmission and differential repair facilities. I worked for Chev. as a master certified tech. for 13-1/2 years. I was specialized in undercarriage work doing auto.trans, manual trans, differentials and transfer cases. I used this product extensively then and still do. You may try shaking up the bottle some before installing especially if you use only half of it at a time. There will be as stated a darkening of the sight glasses, but the level can still be monitored easily. I am happy this has worked out for those who have given it a try. I know it has always worked for my needs.

Good luck with the G0750G. I hope you can resolve the issues, but if not I would not hesitate on the G4003G. There are not any threading issues with mine, although I do stay within common sizes.


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## billooms

Update on progress: Grizzly people have been very cooperative and want to resolve the problems. They agree that the headstock on the 0750 is different than the 4003, and that the part numbers listed in the manual are wrong. They are working to update their database with correct part numbers. In the meantime, they've initiated a high priority request for a new headstock cover from the factory as they don't have one in stock here in the US. This may take up to 2-1/2 weeks (worst case) they say. I'll continue to call them every few days for progress report.


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## george wilson

I had a Sharp brand lathe in the shop at work. It is one of the best Taiwan brands. Sharp never succeeded in identifying their own product. I think I ended up making the parts I needed. The lathe was exactly the same model that MSC sells as the "Prince" lathe. I can nearly guarantee that the Prince's parts would not have fit my Sharp. Even though Asian machines can look identical,they are most usually different inside.

I hope Grizzly gets it together. They have always given me good service. But,the last 2 lathes I bought from them were in 1986. They didn't have as many different models back then.


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## kd4gij

Can you sylicon the cover so you can use it till thay get the right parts. Hit them up for a cift card or store credit for the hassels.


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## Ray C

Yeah... I'd be inclined to just seal the existing lid or make one out of some scrap sheet metal.  This way, you can start using the darn thing already.  I don't think they'll even ask for the old lid -they'd be wasting money to process an RMA and pick-up the shipping.  Whatever you do, unless you really like the taste of oil, don't run that machine w/o the lid...


Ray





kd4gij said:


> Can you sylicon the cover so you can use it till thay get the right parts. Hit them up for a cift card or store credit for the hassels.


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## billooms

I bought some silicone-based gasket sealant from NAPA and I'm going to give that a try. I'm thinking that should hold up for a while.

I've had more oil on the floor in the last few weeks than in the preceding 10 years.

For those of you with a 4003 or other similar gear head lathe -- with that drain plug on the side, how do you drain the oil without causing a total mess?

When this is over, I'll definitely hit them up for a credit or major discount (maybe on a Bison 5C chuck).


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## Ray C

Not sure about your particular setup but, I have a drip/chip pan.  When I set the lathe down, I slathered both sides of the drain pan at the mating areas with silocone sealer.

When its time to drain the oil, I unscrew the plug and watch it drain into the chip pan. The chip pan has a few low spots and one of these days, I'll insert some mini-plugs in there but for now, the clean-up is not horrendous.

Ray





billooms said:


> I bought some silicone-based gasket sealant from NAPA and I'm going to give that a try. I'm thinking that should hold up for a while.
> 
> I've had more oil on the floor in the last few weeks than in the preceding 10 years.
> 
> For those of you with a 4003 or other similar gear head lathe -- with that drain plug on the side, how do you drain the oil without causing a total mess?
> 
> When this is over, I'll definitely hit them up for a credit or major discount (maybe on a Bison 5C chuck).


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## drs23

billooms said:


> I bought some silicone-based gasket sealant from NAPA and I'm going to give that a try. I'm thinking that should hold up for a while.
> 
> I've had more oil on the floor in the last few weeks than in the preceding 10 years.
> 
> For those of you with a 4003 or other similar gear head lathe -- *with that drain plug on the side, how do you drain the oil without causing a total mess?*
> 
> When this is over, I'll definitely hit them up for a credit or major discount (maybe on a Bison 5C chuck).



Credit for this idea goes to raross61:




> Here are some things that might help you I have had mine for 2 or so years now. Here are the things other people told me and I came up with on my own. The machine needed quite a bit of cleaning both on the inside and out! Be careful when you clean the outside painted surfaces, the paint was pretty fresh on mine, and will come off if you are not really careful! I put a 3/8" 45 deg, pipe nipple on the headstock gearbox





> drain right out of the gate! When you get it you will see what I mean, it is hard to get a funnel under there while draining! I have a HF suction tank and I used that last time to drain it and vacuum particles out of the gear case. I am using AW 68 hydraulic oil in both my headstock, and apron with good luck. Some guys are running AW 100 in the headstock, and AW 68 in the apron, in Oregon the temperatures are pretty mild here 9 month's out of the year. I also added a large, about 3" round magnet to the RH lower corner of the headstock gearcase. I think one off the HF welding magnet, or there cheap SS parts tray. I also used epoxy to glue a small magnet, from a pin type screwdriver, to the appron drain plug.




I did the same thing after he suggested it and it's a MUCH cleaner way to get the job done.

Dale


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## Ray C

Oh, forgot to mention... when I drain the large/main gearbox, I remove the lid and use a pump siphon.  They're simple devices (about 5 bucks) sold in the kerosene heater section of the hardware store.   I use them for all kinds of things.  It drains it pretty much dry and I wipe out the bottom with a rag.  The threading gearbox only holds a pint which is not a big chore to clean out of the pan...  Anyhow, I like to pull the lid off once a year for a visual inspection and check the magnet.

Ray


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## billooms

Thanks for the good ideas on draining the gearbox.


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## Gr8fullAmerican

Got my G0750G about 6 weeks ago but was only able to get it set up and the break in procedure done before having to leave town for over a month.  Anyway, got back cut a test bar and was right on.  Initially I  had a lot of noise coming from the drive belts and a lot of belt debris like previously mentioned.  Adjusted the belts , cleaned it up, and the racket went away.  The only problem I had, not being a professional machinist, was that I didn't notice the protractor for the compound zeroes parallel to the spindle, not perpendicular, so I set the compound zero mark to 29.5 degrees.  After watching these bizarre looking threads form I spent a few hours googling , cutting, scratching head, repeat.... then I found it! The protractor needed to be set toward the 60 degree mark not the intuitive 30.  I changed the compound, picked up the threads, straightened it all out and threaded my part right on!  I did not have any issues with leaks, gear, headstock, etc..  The only problem I had was the faceplate casting that had a large crack/casting flaw through its centerline.  I called Grizzly and had a replacement within a week.  Have bought a lot of Grizzly tools over the years and have found customer service and quality to be excellent.  Barring any major failures in the future I believe that I will be very satisfied.with this lathe.


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## billooms

Friday update: Grizzly says they now have a replacement headstock cover and will send it out on Monday. They say the new cover is plastic! I'm not sure why they changed from a metal cover to plastic. I'll make another post when I receive it.


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## Gr8fullAmerican

Put some ground stock in my 4 jaw, dialed it in within .0005, made a 2" cut about 3" from chuck.  Checked it with calipers and found it was .005 out toward the chuck. Decided to switch out 4 jaw, loosened d1-5 camlocks and chuck dropped free when I loosened the last one. Now every other chuck I have used required a little encouragement to let go of the spindle.  The 4 jaw obviously didn't mate properly to the spindle nose.  Called Grizzly and they are sending me out a new 4 jaw. Hopefully the new chuck will mount tight and right!


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## Richard King

I know many of you think you can't afford Taiwan built machines as most are better quality now then the Chinese machines.   Many new machine factories being built in China are joint ventures with some Taiwan and Japanese builders because the labor rate is less.  The last time I was there some Taiwan companies are exploring building plants in Viet Nam and Burma (not the name anymore).  I think many of you guys who have older Taiwan imports know the quality.  I know several machine importers who have good machines, but as Tom Dou of Acra told me his machines are more expensive then Grizzly.  I said in another thread that Grizzly has to have some good machines as they have been in business for a long time.
30 years ago my company was a repair station for Jet.  The customer got the service free of charge.  They would call us now and then to go and repair a machine.  The customer never had to do any major work as it seems you have to do.   I also would get a call from MSC and do work for them. The same deal, free of charge to the customer.  Once I recall a machine was so bad I recommended they replace it.  Doesn't Grizzly offer this, to send a pro out to fix it for you, or just replace this lemon?  Or do they expect the buyer to do the repairs?  If they do send them a bill for your labor.   Here are a few other companies you may want to look at next time you want a better quality machine and  better repair service.
http://www.acramachinery.com/ http://www.kentusa.com/ http://www.aceronline.net/acergroup/dealers.htm http://jettools-online.com/?gclid=CPWbwu_XwLgCFUhgMgodmhIANw http://www.mscdirect.com/


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## epanzella

One guy with Grizzly problems doesn't mean much. One guy (like myself) that has had zero problems and had his G4003G exceed his expectations in every way doesn't mean much either. I would luv to know how many G0750G/G4003G's are out there and who is the exception and who is the rule.


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## Gr8fullAmerican

Well said Epanzella, as I have posted previously I have been buying Grizzly products for over 20 years and have always found them to be of good quality and excellent customer service providers.  I would be surprised if any piece of equipment with the complexity of these lathes didn't have minor issues once in a while.  My post was intended only to see if others have experienced similar issues.  Grizzly sent me out a new chuck immediately, along with an apology for any inconvenience. I would not hesitate to buy any Grizzly products, I only wish I had the money and room to buy more equipment from them.


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## HMF

I moved this to the Grizzly area with a redirect. Great observations.


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## Ray C

The days of such customized repair service are gone as far as the small shop and hobbyist is concerned. There are 2 basic modes of operation in that regard. 1) Some distributors sell to the higher-end customer and require an annual service contract ranging from 5 to 15% of sales cost. Sometimes, they will require "factory authorized" setup of the machine.  Without the service contract, -no warranty beyond 90 days.  2) As in the links below, most of those machines are well over 40-50% higher in price over what big retail distrubutors are charging. The prices are higher to offset any defects they may need to eat and to pay for their 1st or 2nd party technical support.   BTW, the best overall lathe mentioned below that's close to our price range are the Kent brand. A 1440 is running about $13,000 to $16,000 depending on how configured. Also, it is the identical lathe to the Precision Matthews RML series of pro-line equipment but at a lower cost due to low overhead. Same-lathe, same company, same quality controls -but about 20% less than other retailers.

The last mode of operation is quite simple: Play the numbers game, sell the minimum quality you can get away with, do little to no QC inspection and ship e'm as fast as you can.   Some machines are born OK and some not.  The customer is the first person doing QC checks and most first-time buyers don't know what they're looking for. If there's a problem, they're quick to respond to the "squeeky wheels". In general, they make-out like bandits as few people catch the real problems and only complain about a bent piece of sheet metal or quibble over a bottle of touch-up paint. A rare few actually catch the real problems.


Ray




Richard King said:


> I know many of you think you can't afford Taiwan built machines as most are better quality now then the Chinese machines. Many new machine factories being built in China are joint ventures with some Taiwan and Japanese builders because the labor rate is less. The last time I was there some Taiwan companies are exploring building plants in Viet Nam and Burma (not the name anymore). I think many of you guys who have older Taiwan imports know the quality. I know several machine importers who have good machines, but as Tom Dou of Acra told me his machines are more expensive then Grizzly. I said in another thread that Grizzly has to have some good machines as they have been in business for a long time.
> 30 years ago my company was a repair station for Jet. The customer got the service free of charge. They would call us now and then to go and repair a machine. The customer never had to do any major work as it seems you have to do. I also would get a call from MSC and do work for them. The same deal, free of charge to the customer. Once I recall a machine was so bad I recommended they replace it. Doesn't Grizzly offer this, to send a pro out to fix it for you, or just replace this lemon? Or do they expect the buyer to do the repairs? If they do send them a bill for your labor. Here are a few other companies you may want to look at next time you want a better quality machine and better repair service.
> http://www.acramachinery.com/ http://www.kentusa.com/ http://www.aceronline.net/acergroup/dealers.htm http://jettools-online.com/?gclid=CPWbwu_XwLgCFUhgMgodmhIANw http://www.mscdirect.com/


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## billooms

Update: I received the new headstock cover and gasket on Monday and they appeared to be the correct parts and the right size. It turns out the new lid is in fact the same heavy black material as the old one (I had mistakenly thought the old lid was metal because of the weight). The new lid also had a small hole in the side the same as the original one (a vent hole?). I don't know why others haven't noticed the problem with oil coming out of this small hole. I plugged it with a tapered wooden plug. The new lid is flat and smooth on the bottom (unlike the old one which was warped and rough). I put the new lid on with a layer of silicone-based gasket sealer on the cover side of the gasket and let it cure overnight.

On Tuesday I ran the machine for a while and it seemed OK. However, about an hour later there was a small dribble of oil on the backside again (in the back of the electrical panel). I took everything apart and cleaned everything. I wiped the metal surface with lacquer thinner to remove any trace of oil and put a layer of silicone-based gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket this time (making sure there was some squeeze-out along all edges). 

Today, I've been just letting it run for a few hours and it seems OK. We'll give it a few more days to see if the gasket holds up.

A few additional issues: The spider screws are too long and hit the cover for all but the smallest material. After taking some measurements with small stock and large stock, my conclusion is that there is no single length of socket cap screw that will accommodate material sizes from small to 1.5" diameter. One would need M10-1.5 x 30 screws for small material and M10-1.5 x 20 screws for larger material. I was unable to find anyone who sells brass-tipped socket cap screws in metric (neither McMaster-Carr or MSC have them). However, I believe it would work to use a set screw instead of a socket cap screw. Without the space for a cap, I believe 32mm length should work for a wide range of material (MSC #64828445). I'll order some and try it (Grizzly agreed to gift certificate me to cover the amount). 

The pulley on the motor won't stay tight  and the key started coming out (similar to what people with the 4003G have reported). I drilled/tapped a hole for another more substantial set screw on the key side (the other one was just a small pointed set screw on the opposite side). I added loc-tite to both setscrews. We'll give it a few more days to see if this fix holds up.

BTW: Grizzly says they have about 30 of these 0750Gs in the field so far.


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## Ray C

Just about every geared head lathe I know of, has a vent hole somewhere.  It's absolutely necessary to have one as pressure increases when it warms up and it will force the fluids out somewhere.  I'm not familiar with your model but, I don't think you should plug-up that hole.  Make some kind of baffle.  On my lathe, the top cover has an oil fill plug and disguised in that plug are some tiny holes... -Maybe do the same thing.  You cold also get a "fish tank aerator" which is just one of those stones connected to the air line of a fish tank to make bubbles.  Drill a hole in the lid and stick an aerator in there.  I've seen this done on more than one lathe.




billooms said:


> Update: I received the new headstock cover and gasket on Monday and they appeared to be the correct parts and the right size. It turns out the new lid is in fact the same heavy black material as the old one (I had mistakenly thought the old lid was metal because of the weight). The new lid also had a small hole in the side the same as the original one (a vent hole?). I don't know why others haven't noticed the problem with oil coming out of this small hole. I plugged it with a tapered wooden plug. The new lid is flat and smooth on the bottom (unlike the old one which was warped and rough). I put the new lid on with a layer of silicone-based gasket sealer on the cover side of the gasket and let it cure overnight.
> 
> On Tuesday I ran the machine for a while and it seemed OK. However, about an hour later there was a small dribble of oil on the backside again (in the back of the electrical panel). I took everything apart and cleaned everything. I wiped the metal surface with lacquer thinner to remove any trace of oil and put a layer of silicone-based gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket this time (making sure there was some squeeze-out along all edges).
> 
> .


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## billooms

Ray C said:


> Just about every geared head lathe I know of, has a vent hole somewhere.  It's absolutely necessary to have one as pressure increases when it warms up and it will force the fluids out somewhere.



Thanks for the comment. I agree that some vent makes sense, but I was losing about 4 ounces of oil in 10 minutes of time coming out of the hole the way they have it. I don't know why others are not seeing this problem with this lathe. I like your aerator solution.


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## epanzella

billooms said:


> Thanks for the comment. I agree that some vent makes sense, but I was losing about 4 ounces of oil in 10 minutes of time coming out of the hole the way they have it. I don't know why others are not seeing this problem with this lathe. I like your aerator solution.


I don't seem to have a vent hole in the cover of my G4003G. There is a threaded hole in the edge of the cover a few inches from where you show your vent hole but it's a blind hole and doesn't go thru. My machine doesn't leak anywhere as far as I can tell.


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## billooms

epanzella said:


> I don't seem to have a vent hole in the cover of my G4003G.



Yeah, I noticed that. They sent me a cover for the 4003 originally and as you say there was no obvious air vent hole. It could be somewhere else in the headstock?


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## Al_T

I just took delivery of my G0750G yesterday. It is not off of the pallet yet but I can assure you that mine does not have a vent hole in either long side of the the lid. Short side of the lid I cannot say. I will not get a chance to get it set up for a week or two but will keep you updated. 

Alan


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## Ray C

If you don't have a vent, drill a small hole in the oil filler plug and glue in a piece of felt in the allen hex.  You really do need a vent somewhere otherwise, the temperature rise will increase pressure and blow oil past the knob seals.  Also, here's the one on the 45 mill.  It's the oil cap with a T-connection with a plastic tube long enough to prevent swarf from getting in.  Sometimes they ship these things with a breather stone instead of a tube -whatever... doesn't make a difference.  Both these machines came this way.  Also, if you can get a magnet from the inside of an old hard disk drive, they work great if you put them inside the gearbox to collect any burrs that wear off the gears.  After the first couple oil changes and a year's use, there won't be anything to stick to the magnet.





Ray


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## epanzella

billooms said:


> Yeah, I noticed that. They sent me a cover for the 4003 originally and as you say there was no obvious air vent hole. It could be somewhere else in the headstock?


I looked over the headstock pretty good. If there's a vent it has to be under something like the electrical panel as I didn't do any disassembly. I looked at the oil fill as well and couldn't see any holes.
Ed P


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## billooms

Al_T said:


> I just took delivery of my G0750G yesterday. It is not off of the pallet yet but I can assure you that mine does not have a vent hole in either long side of the the lid.
> Alan



Interesting that your cover is different. Keep us informed as you get it set up.


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## Gr8fullAmerican

billooms said:


> Thanks for the comment. I agree that some vent makes sense, but I was losing about 4 ounces of oil in 10 minutes of time coming out of the hole the way they have it. I don't know why others are not seeing this problem with this lathe. I like your aerator solution.



Checked both sides of my cover, no vent hole on mine either. I wonder if the fill plug allows enough air to escape to accommodate what thermal expansion there may be?  I do not recall any hole on the back side of the cover but then again I wasn't looking for one either. Interesting about the number of units in the field, I would have thought that number would be much higher.


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## epanzella

I wonder if a vent is even required. There's as much airspace as oil in the headstock and it seems to me any expansion by the oil when heated could be accommodated by the air compressing with minimal pressure increase. Has anyone asked Grizzly about the vent issue?
Ed P


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## Al_T

Well, 

I had a chance to do a bit of cleanup on mine today. Overall so far It looks pretty good. Machine work looks good. I pulled the top cover and the headstock was fairly clean internally. The top cover is a type of plastic. Reminds me of a phonalic, pretty heavy, rigid material and there is no vent in the cover and no visible vent in the headstock. It did have a reasonably sharp edge on the motor pulley, which I corrected. It will be a couple of weeks till I get mine up and going but will keep everyone informed as I go.


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## billooms

billooms said:


> The spider screws are too long and hit the cover for all but the smallest material. After taking some measurements with small stock and large stock, my conclusion is that there is no single length of socket cap screw that will accommodate material sizes from small to 1.5" diameter. One would need M10-1.5 x 30 screws for small material and M10-1.5 x 20 screws for larger material. I was unable to find anyone who sells brass-tipped socket cap screws in metric (neither McMaster-Carr or MSC have them). However, I believe it would work to use a set screw instead of a socket cap screw. Without the space for a cap, I believe 32mm length should work for a wide range of material (MSC #64828445). I'll order some and try it.



The MSC set screws arrived and they work fine. Grizzly will only reimburse the cost of the screws -- not the shipping and sales tax. 

For all the grief I've been through, I asked for a discount on the Bison 5C Collet chuck -- they wouldn't do it.


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## rebush

Billooms: Hopefully you've had your lathe up and running for awhile now, wondering what your opinions are about its machining capabilities and precision. Will probably be buying a new lathe in Sept. Trying to decide between the 0750 and the 4003. Thanks Roger


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## billooms

rebush said:


> Billooms: Hopefully you've had your lathe up and running for awhile now, wondering what your opinions are about its machining capabilities and precision. Will probably be buying a new lathe in Sept. Trying to decide between the 0750 and the 4003. Thanks Roger



I'm very happy with the precision and capabilities now that I'm over the initial "fix the problems" mode. If I had to do it again, I would seriously consider the 4003 just because it's been around longer, has the bugs worked out, and parts are readily available. Also, you don't have to change end gears on the 4003 for doing standard US threads. On the 0750, you have to change end gears a lot when doing various threads. On the other hand, I like the enclosed gear box on the 0750 (I also do wood turning in my shop and there's a lot of wood dust floating around to get in any open gears).


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## bptactical

With the economy being such as it is there are far too many QUALITY machines available to even imagine buying a headache.
Not to mention I would have one helluva time ever having faith in the accuracy and repeatability with the aggravation it has given you.
Bummer deal.

Make a sheet metal baffle for the oil vent, what you are getting is likely splash from the gears spinning. The aquarium airstone idea is a good one.


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## Ray C

Not sure if I mentioned this but, you can drill a small hole inside the allen hex  of the fill plug on the top of the unit (smallest hole you can drill will do fine) and glue a larger piece of felt in the hex area.  Works fine...


Ray



bptactical said:


> With the economy being such as it is there are far too many QUALITY machines available to even imagine buying a headache.
> Not to mention I would have one helluva time ever having faith in the accuracy and repeatability with the aggravation it has given you.
> Bummer deal.
> 
> Make a sheet metal baffle for the oil vent, what you are getting is likely splash from the gears spinning. The aquarium airstone idea is a good one.


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## epanzella

bptactical said:


> With the economy being such as it is there are far too many QUALITY machines available to even imagine buying a headache.
> Not to mention I would have one helluva time ever having faith in the accuracy and repeatability with the aggravation it has given you.
> Bummer deal.
> 
> Make a sheet metal baffle for the oil vent, what you are getting is likely splash from the gears spinning. The aquarium airstone idea is a good one.



" there is no vent in the cover and no visible vent in the headstock"
There's no vent.


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## dave2176

Billooms, are you the same woodturner I see at the Utah Woodturning Symposium? I'm the Dave that does turned bat house ornaments as works in the gallery.
At any rate I'm glad your problems are resolved. I recently acquired a g4003g that I just love. The deciding factor was the gear changes required on the g0750g for US threads.

Dave

Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk 4


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## billooms

dave2176 said:


> Billooms, are you the same woodturner I see at the Utah Woodturning Symposium?



Yep, that's me.


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