# Temco part number help



## Rangerjoe2 (Apr 6, 2013)

Guys,

i need a little help...Monday I'm picking up my new 13x40 south bend lathe.  I'm looking to power up the 1 1/2 hp 3 phase motor with this http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/products/Variable_Frequency_Drives/C10007.html

it seems pretty straight forward on the installation but I need some part descriptions so I can add a separate on off forward rev switch, a speed pot, and a disconnect.  It will be powered from a dedicated 240 20 amp breaker.

any help you can provide would be great.

joe


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## Ulma Doctor (Apr 6, 2013)

hi joe,
the VFD looks pretty cool. i down loaded the manual and took a look through it.
it looks pretty easy to install, the diagrams in the manual are good.
you may need some switches and a potentiometer . other than that, it should be a cake walk.
have you considered the mounting yet?


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## Rangerjoe2 (Apr 6, 2013)

Ulma,

My plan is to wire it in an enclosure.  I've read that if the enclosure is at least 4 times the size of the vfd then no additional cooling fan is needed, but I'm thinking I would still mount a fan.  I'm going to mount the controls on the lathe in a handy spot.  

I have an idea of what controls etc. I need but just wanted some conformation.  What type of disconnect will I need to sever the 240 volt input side from the vfd?   Also, what type of drum switch do i need for start stop for rev?  I believe I'll need a 5k linear speed pot as well.  What size wire can I use for the switches?

these are just some if the things I'm trying to figure out.  Can't wait to get it up and running.


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## Ulma Doctor (Apr 7, 2013)

My plan is to wire it in an enclosure.  I've read that if the enclosure is at least 4 times the size of the vfd then no additional cooling fan is needed, but I'm thinking I would still mount a fan.  I'm going to mount the controls on the lathe in a handy spot. 

                 i agree i would also mount a fan, a cooler VFD is a happy VFD!

I have an idea of what controls etc. I need but just wanted some conformation.  What type of disconnect will I need to sever the 240 volt input side from the vfd?   Also, what type of drum switch do i need for start stop for rev?  I believe I'll need a 5k linear speed pot as well.  What size wire can I use for the switches?

these are just some if the things I'm trying to figure out.  Can't wait to get it up and running.[/QUOTE]

you can do you disconnect many ways. i'm partial to twist lock plugs myself. all my 240v stuff has them on them.
a 3 pole switch can be made to change motor direction a drum switch is often used, but i would not recommend trying to reverse directions as the machine is operating, motor damage could occur! damage could also occur to the vfd in some cases as well.
the VFD will have a control panel with controls on it. some VFD allow you to change direction at the control panel, eliminating the need for a drum switch, you may wish to consider that...

A 5k is pretty common for the speed control pot, i would avoid extremely inexpensive ones, but they will work for a while.
your control wiring in regards to your vfd can be pretty light gauge, as not much current goes through control circuits as a rule of thumb 18 gauge multi strand is more than adequate up to 15 ft in length for controls.
as for the 220v supply wire i would also recommend stranded wire, 12 gauge would be best, 14 gauge is sufficient under that i have seen done but don't recommend for safety purposes. this is for copper wire .
romex can be used safely, i don't like it but it is wire and will do the job as well.
 i would not use romex for controls anytime anywhere. for supply it is sufficient, but in controls it often is difficult to maneuver due to it's rigidity.

i'm happy to help out lmk if there are more questions!


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## twstoerzinger (Apr 7, 2013)

Hello Joe,
A couple of comments in addition to Ulma's.

You need a safety disconnect on the power lead feeding the drive. It needs to be close to the drive, say 6 or 8 feet. It's purpose is to allow you to remove power from the drive when doing maintenance work. I leave mine disconnected when not in use - especially during thunderstorm season. As Ulma suggests, this can be as simple as a twist-type plug and socket which can be had from a good hardware store. You can also install a small NEMA 1 safety disconnect - looks like a small fuse box with a switch handle on the side. The advantage of the box type disconnect is that you can get it with fuse holders to install fuses to protect the drive. The circuit breaker protects the wiring from the main panel to the disconnect, and the disconnect fuses can be smaller (or faster) to protect the drive. In your case, you say that you will have a dedicated circuit so you may be able to count the circuit breaker as protection for the drive. If you want to look at safety disconnect boxes, you can see them at the typical home improvement store. I bought one a while back for a 3 hp drive. The cost was $30. I think you will find that the cost of the twist lock plug and socket ends up being about the same.

Skip the power rotary reversing switch and use the reverse feature in the drive. The drive power output is supposed to be directly wired to the motor with no intermediate switches or disconnects. 

I recommend the Start Forward / Start Reverse / Center Off configuration  for a lathe. You install a low voltage (24 V)  3 position switch for  Forward /  Stop / Reverse where it is handy to the operator. Install the  Speed pot at this same location. The drive is designed to be controlled in this way.

You asked about switch part numbers. There are probably lower cost places to buy these than McMaster Carr, but let me use a MC part to get you the idea. You typically buy these as an operator (knob or handle) and a separate contact kit. You are going to run the control voltage at 28 V as supplied by the drive itself.
Here is a MC number for the 3 position, maintained operator 9209K581. 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-selector-pilot-switches/=m7tumm
Here's the contactor kit for the back: 9209K136.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-selector-pilot-switches/=m7u06v
This combination gives you a 3 position switch similar to the old drum switch: Rev / Stop / Forward. A detente holds it in the last position that you set it. 

Perhaps another member has a good source for switches like these.

The other thing you might consider adding is an E-Stop switch. My Clausing lathe has a prominent clutch handle that is used to stop the spindle in a panic. IIRC the Southbend does not have this. The E-Stop switch is simply a mushroom head push-button that breaks the low-volt run signal to the drive. In a panic, you don't have to find the 3 position switch and figure out which way to move it. Here's an example from MC: 9209K13 (in red)
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-selector-pilot-switches/=m7u3km
Again, you buy a SPST NC contactor kit for the back.

The switches and pot need to go in a small control panel, I mean like 6" by 6". You can buy a pre-fab, or for low voltage you can make one up out of sheet metal and pop rivets.

Terry S.


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## Rangerjoe2 (Apr 7, 2013)

Terry,

Thanks Terry!  That's the info I was looking for!  I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions.

Joe


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## Rangerjoe2 (Apr 7, 2013)

Terry,

The estop gets wired between the on off switch and the vfd correct?


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## twstoerzinger (Apr 7, 2013)

Joe,
Some of these smaller drives have special terminals for the E-Stop. In looking through the manual, I don't see this for the 7 amp drive you have selected.
So, for this case, the E-Stop breaks the circuit between the Start contact and the Stop contact and the ground - when you use the Run Forward / Stop / Run Reverse setup.

At this point I have to stop and ask if you want the Southbend to even run in reverse? 
This is a question best directed to other Southbend owners. 
I think some of these lathes have threaded spindles that can release a chuck or a back plate if accelerated in reverse.
If it turns out that you do not want reverse, then use one of the configurations for Forward Run Only.

If it turns out that reverse is appropriate, there are about 4 ways to get it. All of these little drives can be configured to run in a couple of dozen ways. The drive you have selected can be programed for remote Start - Stop in about 4 different ways. You get to pick. As I said below, my personal favorite is the Run Forward / Stop / Run Reverse, just because it ends up feeling like a traditional high voltage drum reversing switch. 
For a detail of how to connect and program this mode, see Option 6 on page 6 of the CFW10 Accessories Connection and Programming Guide. It shows the low volt connections and how to program the appropriate parameters.
The E-Stop switch would be wired in place of the jumper between Term 2 and Term 3. The E-Stop button needs to be "maintained contact" meaning that it stays depressed when you hit it. You have to pull it back out to re-enable the drive. Check the E-stop switch I referenced below - I'm not sure that I referenced a maintained contact switch. If you use a "momentary contact" switch here, the drive will re-start as soon as you release the E-Stop button. The maintained contact E-Stop also has the feature that if you or someone bumps it during operation (stopping the lathe), it is easy to confirm what stopped the drive since the E-stop will remain depressed.

The 7 amp drive is also capable of adding a dynamic braking feature. In this mode, the drive injects DC power into the motor so that the motor acts like a generator and dissipates power into a braking resistor to quickly decelerate the motor in an E-Stop condition. I'm not sure that you want to try to use this feature (at least not to start out). It requires some more components: contactor, braking resistor, thermal relay, etc. Plus, some of my EE friends who work with VFD's on a daily basis say that the dynamic braking feature can damage the insulation on an older motor.

Don't be frightened off by all of the parameters that have to be set up (there are 100 or so). Many of them remain in the factory default setting. As you go through the manual a couple of times, the way these guys think becomes more obvious and the set up is not so daunting. The manual covers the configuration about 3 times: once in a overview mode, second in a quick reference mode, and third in a detailed mode. Read through all three before you panic. A lot of the members on the forum have set up several different brands of drives. If you get stuck - start a thread and ask a question.

I don't want to steer you away from the Temco drive, but you might also consider the Westinghouse Teco "Compact Micro AC Drive." I bought one from Wolf Automation in Chicago, about the same price as the Temco, maybe even $20 lower cost. I found Wolf Automation to be very helpful. Their main customers are industrial types, but the application engineer I spoke with was well informed with home shop applications and had several good recommendations. Nothing wrong with Temco, just saying that I had a good experience with Wolf Automation  (and they speak good Mid-West English). http://www.wolfautomation.com/produ...to-3hp-single-or-3-phase-brteco-evjnev-series

Terry S.


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## Rangerjoe2 (Apr 7, 2013)

They,

I do want my lathe to run in reverse.  It has a camloc spindle.  I know the estop type your talking about, I had one on my grizzly lathe.  I'll look up the info.  I imagine I need the same type of contact kit, the spst nc?

ill look into the drive your using.  I picked the temco because the manual was really easy to understand and they have a number of YouTube videos on setting up their drives.  I've heard their customer service people are very helpful as well.  

When I get closer to the wiring phase ill post a diagram with part numbers and descriptions for review.

Joe


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