# Logan 11" Lathe



## jackofall

Greetings,

I recently bought a Logan 11 inch lathe.  I bought it on ebay for I think a decent  $500.00 price.
I have not received it yet. I am hoping some one will recognize it as no model number was provided.
My previous experience has been with bench-top models. 
It was advertised as a Logan 11" with a 34" bed. I have been unable to find a model with an 11" swing with a 34" bed.
The lath is equipped with a 1.5 Hp. Baldor motor with a V belt, flat belt drive.
I have a few photos that will hopefully help.

Thanks,

Jackofall


----------



## stevecmo

Jack,

Can you post larger pictures?  It's impossible to see any detail from the pic's you posted.

The only Logan beds in the 34" length (actually 33") were the 9" swing lathes.  The shortest bed on an 11" was 43".

Steve


----------



## Chuck K

Take a look here:

http://www.lathe.com/models.htm


----------



## Mister Ed

I remember that auction, here are your pics and a couple thoughts:







A couple things that stick out to me: 

My Gut is saying 10" ... but I may be wrong
Also guessing that it is 43" not 34" bed length
This lathe originally had cast iron legs and a chip pan that it sat on (note the "5th leg" under the motor carriage).
It is a 1/2 hp motor (which was std on the 10" ... IIRC 3/4hp was on the 11").
Compound looks to have had some repair to it (I see a allen cap screw in one of the pics on Ebay).
Unfortunately, I don't see the other change gears for threading ... non issue if you don't thread a bunch.
It looks to be in pretty nice shape ... it still has the tailstock dauber!!


----------



## jackofall

Greetings,

Thanks for the info.  I sort of suspected the description on ebay was not correct.
I asked for the model number, but he never responded.  I am waiting for overall dimensions in order to have it shipped.
So there will be more when I know more.

Thanks again,

Jackofall


----------



## Mister Ed

Easiest way to tell (once you have it) ... measure the inside spindle diam (inside the gear cover). If it is less than one inch ... 10" Lathe. If greater than 1" ... 11" lathe.

Cpngrats on the lathe. It might take a little doing to get it right ... but that lathe appeared to be in good condition. Probably had low use. Generally, if the dauber on the tailstock is still present ... it  never saw too much use. 

Ed


----------



## Chuck K

Mister Ed said:


> Easiest way to tell (once you have it) ... measure the inside spindle diam (inside the gear cover). If it is less than one inch ... 10" Lathe. If greater than 1" ... 11" lathe.
> 
> Cpngrats on the lathe. It might take a little doing to get it right ... but that lathe appeared to be in good condition. Probably had low use. Generally, if the dauber on the tailstock is still present ... it  never saw too much use.
> 
> Ed




Ed, I have a 10" parts machine that I bought from a scrap yard that still had the dauber in it, but the machine was pretty well used up.  I would agree that the lathe in the pics doesn't look like it has been used in production, but it's  really hard to judge a machine from pics.  The serial # for that machine will be stamped in the end of the bed.  You can look on the Yahoo Logan group and find a number close to yours to get an idea of model and year.  My guess is early 40s 10".

Chuck


----------



## Mister Ed

Chuck K said:


> Ed, I have a 10" parts machine that I bought from a scrap yard that still had the dauber in it ...



LOL, nothing is ever for certain, that's for sure! I have never even seen a genuine Logan dauber in person.


Hey Chuck, do you have an extra lever (the one you squeeze in) for the feed direction lever?


----------



## Redlineman

Hey;

Looks like a pre 1943 200 model to me. 10x24". Horizontal long emblem. Power switch in the front opening. Pipe peg leg. Those are the cues. Looks decent. Not the original motor, which was .5HP.


----------



## bigskybob

Take a look at this YouTube Video by Mr. Pete, I think this is very close to what you have, get her working you will enjoy it alot, I have a 10"  825 with full cabinet, geart machines.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yminOBsjDqg

Bob V.
Big Sky Bob


----------



## Chuck K

Mister Ed said:


> LOL, nothing is ever for certain, that's for sure! I have never even seen a genuine Logan dauber in person.
> 
> 
> Hey Chuck, do you have an extra lever (the one you squeeze in) for the feed direction lever?



Ed, I have two tumbler brackets.  One has a cracked and bent lever.  The other one has the lever broken off.  Apparently they get bumped a lot.

Chuck


----------



## Mister Ed

Chuck K said:


> Ed, I have two tumbler brackets.  One has a cracked and bent lever.  The other one has the lever broken off.  Apparently they get bumped a lot.
> 
> Chuck


That is exactly what happened to mine ... when I was moving the lathe to my place. I made one up, and it works ... just doesn't look like it should.

Thanks for getting back to me Chuck.


----------



## jackofall

Greetings,

I finally got my new "old" Logan lathe.  As some of you thought, it is a 10" model with a 42" bed. It measures 24" between centers, and has a 5" 3 jaw chuck.
I have not been able to locate a definitive model number. The serial number is 13110. 
From the pictures I thought it was a V-belt model, but some one had been using a v belt on the motor and countershaft. One of you guys though that the motor was not original.  The motor pulley is a v belt type. It originally had flat drive belts. 
Overall it looks to be in good shape.
I am planning on taking the headstock down for a good cleaning and lube job.
Are there any special tricks I need to know about dissembling the headstock?
Also I am thinking about using an endless belt between the countershaft and headstock, while I have it down.
Any thoughts or info is appreciated.
I will post some pics when I start.
Well that is all for now.

Regards,


----------



## Chuck K

On that machine you should have a v-belt pulley on the motor running up to a flat belt pulley on the countershaft....I got the impression from your last post that you thought it should have matched pulleys top and bottom.  I'm guessing it's set up that way because it's easier to slip the belt between steps to change speed.  The endless belt for the spindle drive is absolutely the way to go.  If your lucky enough you can find an automotive serpentine belt that is the exact length you need.  You can also buy the endless belt from Scott Logan.  It's rather pricey but it is a very nice belt.  Good luck with your new lathe.

Chuck


----------



## Terrywerm

You can use a serpentine belt for the spindle drive in place of a leather flat belt. My Logan 200  has a NAPA Micro-V AT belt on it, number 25-080400.  It works great, but you have to remove the spindle to change the belt. Luckily, belt replacement is seldom required, and they last a long time.


----------



## stevecmo

Serpentine belt is definitely the way to go.  Here's a link to the one I used:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/1053/=ppi6mo

#9003K114 - Ten ribs, 40.5" outside circle (OC).  Works like a charm.  You can probably find it cheaper at an auto parts store as Terry said, but I don't know if they have them that wide or not.

Hope that helps.

Steve


----------



## jackofall

Thanks for the Help,

As I look a little deeper the spindle bearings are a little clunky feeling.
I suspect that this machine was found somewhere that it had not been used in a long time and the bearings have rusted spots in the races. I am planning, as I previously mentioned, to tear down the head anyway.  So I guess adding a serpentine belt won't be a problem.
 Some of the remaining electrical components were very old.  The electrical disconnect panel had the old screw in fuses.  The plug in is one of those old ones that were used before they started using the polarized ones now that have one of the terminals larger than the other. The drum switch is missing it's guts, so I will replace it or use something else.  I don't plan to run it in reverse so using another type switch may be an option.
The protolog on the belts show my ignorance, the drive belt on the motor is a v-belt, the motor pulley had been changed at some point.  The motor pulley is a single groove.  The flat belt goes from the counter wheels to the spindle.
I had to look at some pictures to get the drive system straight in my head.
It is great having people who are willing to help with the information that is relevant to my machine.

I guess the only thing left is to get my hands dirty, and hopefully I will be able to move to the next level in my machine work.

So thanks to all.

Regards,


----------



## Redlineman

Hey Jack;

The back gear shaft can be a little tricky to get out, but the main spindle is fairly straight forward. You might as well do it all and make sure it is all right. Give a shout if you get hung up. Although I blew it down over a year ago, I've got mine temporarily reassembled just to check the fit of everything right now, so it is somewhat fresh in my mind. 

Waiting to get my poly v belt to button things up for good. I'm planning on using a 6-rid 40" (K060400). I figure that will grip far better than about the same width original flat belt, so 6 should be plenty. A 8 rib that short (K080400) is not commonly available except industrial supply outlets, most likely. A 6 that short is not either, come to find out. None of the auto stores carry one around here. 

Hopefully your nose bearing is just gummed up. The correct one is pretty pricey, and Logan is the only place you can get it! The back bearing is thankfully generic.


----------



## Terrywerm

Just a heads up on the use of ribbed serpentine belts.  I have an eight rib, and it grips much better than a leather flat belt. If I overdid things with the leather belt, it was the first thing to slip. If I overdo it with the serpentine belt, the v-belt on the primary drive is the first to slip.


----------



## Redlineman

terrywerm said:


> Just a heads up on the use of ribbed serpentine belts.  I have an eight rib, and it grips much better than a leather flat belt. If I overdid things with the leather belt, it was the first thing to slip. If I overdo it with the serpentine belt, the v-belt on the primary drive is the first to slip.


Indeed;

A good point, and exactly why I reasoned that the 6-rib was more than sufficient, and would offer a touch of "clutch" safety.


----------



## jackofall

Hi,

I have placed an order with McMaster Carr for the snake belt. I am hoping that the bearings are salvageable.  Time will tell!

Thanks All,

Jack


----------



## jackofall

*Re: Logan 11" Lathe, Headstock Teardown*

Greetings and Salutations,

I have begun the tear-down, and have a few questions.
1) Can I use gear oil in the bearings,you know the kind used in manual transmissions and differentials, or is there a special oil for them?  
2) What is the procedure to remove the back gears from the case? 
3) What direction does the retainer screw off the spindle? I am speaking of the double bearing retainer that  has two holes for a spanner wrench. Clock-wise or counter clock-wise?

I removed the spindle and checked the bearing. It was very rough, but with a washout using mineral spirits and acetone, it was almost a miracle. The bearing is as slick as a baby's you know what.
I cleaned the accumulated gunk from the rear bearing,gear change side, and that it too is smooth.  I believe they are the original bearings, the rear one is a "New Departure #3206" which was a good old GM division.
The double roller ID is hidden by the retainer and the step on the front end of the spindle.

That is all for now.

Thanks,

Jackofall


----------

