# My Clausing 100 mk 3 Serial#  5396



## WEL0058

I have a Clausing Model 100 mk3 standard lathe which has been in our family since the 1960's.   My father had bought the lathe from a retired machinist and spent many nights make/rebuild parts.  I have had this great lathe for 20 years now.  

I have had visitors ask me a lot of questions when they see this lathe.   It would be great to date this lathe and who the original purchaser was.   There is no data plates other the serial number '5396' stamped into right side of the bed.

I reached yesterday out to Tom McNett at Clausing to see what they had on their records.   He responded today with this response...
>
> Our records show that this is a Model 102 and it shipped to Indus. Elec. On 11/15/46. This is all the info I have on it.  
> Best regards,
>
> Tom McNett
> Technical Service
> Clausing Service Center
> Ph: 800-535-6553
> Email: tmcnett@clausingsc.com

Had responded back to Tom if he had any more information such as a shipping address but he did not..    I assumed  'Indus. Elec' is  'Industrial Electrical' which was hopeless to search on. since any commercial electrical company is listed as  'Industrial Electrical Services'.

We where living in New Jersey at the time my dad purchased the lathe from the previous owner in northern N.J. 

The lathe could hava been originally purchased by electrical company to repair electric motors.  

Bob G.
Madison, VA


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## 34_40

Congrats and welcome aboard.  The lathe looks great.


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## WEL0058

Well I have been collecting part to install a QCGB and replace the standard apron with the newer heavy-duty apron with independent power feed.  The new apron requires a 7/8-8 RH lead screw which I currently do not have.  I do have a spare ‘Standard’ 3/4-8 RH lead screw which can be shorten to use with original apron.  Just need to machine a coupler to the lead screw.

Right now cleaning the lathe and parts then give it a fresh coat of paint.

.


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## WEL0058

Well making progress.  Disassemble the spindle from the head stock and left the back gear assembly in place.  Removed at the paint from the bed. It was literally flaking off to bare metal with the needle scaler.  Wire wheels, prime and paint with Rustulem medium gray paint.  

Going to replace the five bearings in the QCGB with1622-2RS bearings.   The old double shield bearing stiff with old grease. Little bit a puzzle taking it a part. Like  a rubric cube.  

What is the best order in disassembling the gearbox to replace the bearings?

I am replacing the standard apron with the advance apron.  Believe I have one from a 4800 lathe with oil sight gauge on bottom of tail stock side.  The standard carriage saddle holes are off by about  0.030“. Will oblong the saddle bore holes to fit the new apron.


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## WEL0058

Any one have a lead on QCGB gear train cover and a good lead screw?


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## WEL0058

Bought a 7/8” lead screw from a Clausing 5904 lathe on eBay.  Made it fit with a sledge hammer and the torch.

Glad I bought all my parts ten years on eBay.  There is nothing on eBay for Clausing 100/4800 series lathes.  Most of the items for Clausing now are for the 5900 lathes.  Guess they are now being scrapped.

Bought new split nut from Clausing, Bought the cross slide and compound lead screw nuts on eBay. Swapping out the original countershaft sleeve bushings with ball bearings.  Most of the lathe was disassembled, cleaned, painted and reassembled.

Now working on countershaft then electric motor/wiring, paint cabinet exterior.


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## WEL0058

Since most of the lathe is completed, shift my focus on the electrical.  Electric on the lathe consists of 1/2 Hp 1725 rpm 120vac motor, two large contactor and three push button switches.

Is this setup overkill for a 1/2 hp electric motor when I see most of these lathes just using a drum switch?

Down the road, may go VFD setup with 1 or 1-1/2 hp 3 phase motor.    What do you think?


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## 34_40

I think with a threaded on chuck, don't try to run in reverse.  And yes, I think all that gear is way to much - a simple on and off is all that's needed.
My point oh two, ymmv, yada yada yada...  fwiw..


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## wa5cab

I wouldn't exceed 3/4 HP single phase.  If you go with the VFD and don't use a motor actually rated for VFD service, you might want to go with a 1 HP to offset the overheating problem when running it slowly.  

As far as the problems with running in reverse are concerned, you should not do any turning or threading in reverse.  However, if you plan to run a tool post grinder and don't want a face-full of sparks, you will need reverse.  And any operation that uses a draw-bar will be safe.  I have an Atlas 3996 with threaded spindle and have never had any problems with a properly seated chuck coming loose just from starting the machine in reverse, for example when doing a threading operation that required not disengaging the halfnuts for the duration.  So long as I didn't do any actual cutting while in reverse.


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## WEL0058

Thank you Robert,

When I switch chucks,  I give it a good clockwise spin to set the chuck.  Removing the chuck reqires little more effort.  I have done all my work with the lathe turning counter clockwise.   Remember my dad doing some boring and grinding in reverse.

This will be my first VFD project.  Have been reading about VFD for about three years now.  I purchased a new Baldor 3ph 1HP 208-230v - 460/60/3 1750RPM 56 Frame motor a few days ago.    From my understanding running newer motor in VFD 30% to 80% Hz range should not create much heat building up with a larger motor.  I have a AT-1 220V 8A  1Pto3P inverter.    

I have upgraded some components on this lathe to make more threading friendly.  In the process have been tightening up the backlash in the lathe.


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## WEL0058

Another update...  Installed the countershaft/cover using ball bearings instead of bushings so lathe assemble is finished.  Will need to level/adjust/align the lathe when it gets mounted back on the cabinet.

Started work on the cabinet.  Plugging unused holes, weld some more steel in to stiffen it.  Will then paint it.

Plan to replace two light bulbs with LED and use a push button light switch to turn on when door is opened.

How many people actual bolt down/anchor their light lathe to the floor? 

The lathe is currently bolted to two wood runners.  Thinking setting cabinet on rubber stall mats.

Bob G.


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## wa5cab

Only those who spent time aligning it and want it to not need realignment any time soon.


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## 34_40

WEL0058 said:


> Another update...  Installed the countershaft/cover using ball bearings instead of bushings so lathe assemble is finished.  Will need to level/adjust/align the lathe when it gets mounted back on the cabinet.
> 
> *How many people actual bolt down/anchor their light lathe to the floor?*
> 
> The lathe is currently bolted to two wood runners.  Thinking setting cabinet on rubber stall mats.
> Bob G.



That very question was asked in this forum recently..  All the replies said no, no-one could say they bolted their mill or lathe to the floor. But many others have their opinion as well.


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## WEL0058

I used to have a lot of vibration when turning with carbides since doubling the rpms.  Finally isolated to the old rubber v belts - replaced with link belts  - what a difference.   Next step was going to anchor the lathe to the floor.

I notice that also most home shops usually have everything on casters or bolt to pallets.  With the cabinet with storing all tooling inside, it is very heavy.  I would say the tooling was 2 to 3 times the weight of the cabinet Made of 1/8” sheeting.

I have no problem anchoring the cabinet to the concrete floor but after 15 years in my shop still relocating equipment.


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## WEL0058

Contacted Tom McNett at Clausing to see for availability or drawings - no longer available and no drawings:

DL-281-S  Motor Dual Pulley (1-3/4" & 5") 5/8" Bore 

Q-536 Gear Train Cover

These two items are not show stoppers.

For the Dual pulley, can stack two single-groove cast iron pulleys back to back.

If any one has the lathe with the QCGB and could traceout/draw dimensions of the cover would save some time.  What to make a replica as close as the original by welding/grind steel together.


Bob G.


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## wa5cab

Your idea as to how to fix the cover problem is probably doable.  However, two single step pulleys will be much too long.  I believe that the availability of Atlas parts is much better than the equivalent Clausing parts.  The 10-428 Motor pulley is a little smaller than what you quoted at 1.930" and 4.390".  The distance between grooves is 0.625".  And to get the belt to fit properly in both grooves would  probably require changing both two-step pulleys.  The 2-step countershaft pulley 9-427 diameters are roughly 7.5" and 9".  And the ID is 0.750".


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## WEL0058

Thanks Robert for the heads up on the Atlas pulleys. 

It is possible to turn a new pulley but probable needs to be balanced.   Would the pulley dimension be based on pulley OD or inside ID of the belt?

Here are the two motors side by side.   Still a lot of work To do on the cabinet.


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## wa5cab

Light Duty or Fractional Horse Power (FHP) and Multiple V-Belt belts are both specified by the length or circumference of the outside of the belt, not the inside.  Machinery's Handbook gives the recommended pulley groove dimensions.  The angle specified as between the two sides of the "V" or between the radial plane and either side of the "V" varies directly with the pulley OD, running between 30 and 38 degrees or between 15 and 19 degrees.


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## 34_40

WEL0058 said:


> If any one has the lathe with the QCGB and could traceout/draw dimensions of the cover would save some time.  What to make a replica as close as the original by welding/grind steel together.
> Bob G.



I'd gladly help out if I can,  But I cannot picture which cover you're after.


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## WEL0058

Here it is...      Yeah I could fab this total from scratch with trial and error fitting it.  But having some basic dimension would help.  
This is on a low priority right now.


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## Janderso

WEL0058 said:


> Bought new split nut from Clausing


I bet that was pricey. I think I would feel better having new parts for that item.
Your Clausing is looking really good. Lots of work i bet


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## 34_40

WEL0058 said:


> Here it is...      Yeah I could fab this total from scratch with trial and error fitting it.  But having some basic dimension would help.
> This is on a low priority right now.
> 
> 
> View attachment 339121


 Ahhh OKAY.   Let me see what we can do in making a readable print that shows basic dimensions and then we can fine tune it to what you'll need. Have you tried finding one used?  I'm sure you've looked but I have'ta ask. LOL..


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## wa5cab

Have you tried calling Clausing and first determine whether or not they still stock the part or not.  If they do, you can buy it or not, but don;t bother asking for the drawing.  If they don't still have the part, then ask whether they have the drawing.  If they do, they will probably email you either a TIF or a PDF scan of it.


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## 34_40

How about if you started with something like this?  









						10" logan Lathe,Gears Cover/Latch Bracket - tools - by owner - sale
					

I Have 10" Logan Lathe Gear's Cover And Gear Cover Latch Bracket In Casting Primed $35 For Both



					southcoast.craigslist.org


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## WEL0058

Janderso said:


> I bet that was pricey. I think I would feel better having new parts for that item.
> Your Clausing is looking really good. Lots of work i bet



Split nuts was pricey but money well spent.  With the new apron, will only use it for thread cutting.   Yes a lot of work but 20 years of things I wanted to do.  Spent a lot of time right now working on the cabinet.


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## WEL0058

wa5cab said:


> Have you tried calling Clausing and first determine whether or not they still stock the part or not.  If they do, you can buy it or not, but don;t bother asking for the drawing.  If they don't still have the part, then ask whether they have the drawing.  If they do, they will probably email you either a TIF or a PDF scan of it.



I was hoping that Clausing had a drawing but  Tom said it was NLA and he could not find a drawing.    I have seen some else online who fabricate one and you could not tell any difference from original.   Focus right now getting cabinet done and painted.


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## WEL0058

34_40 said:


> Ahhh OKAY.   Let me see what we can do in making a readable print that shows basic dimensions and then we can fine tune it to what you'll need. Have you tried finding one used?  I'm sure you've looked but I have'ta ask. LOL..



Would appreciate.  Just asking if anyone has this lathe with QCGB to trace out the cover and a few dimensions would help.   Also though about reusing the back halve of the original cover and build off that.  Some thing unique.


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## WEL0058

As I was saying focus on the cabinet while I have day light and have been working on the electrical when dark in the shop.  

The cabinet is almost ready to paint.  Would have loved to sand blast/epoxy primer the cabinet but spending to much time on this project.

Well have the electrical all worked out and test on my bench last night.   Using my $50 1 HP Baldor 3Ph 1750 rpm motor with my first VFD.  Made an offer on eBay for XinShuang Yuan "XSY-AT1-1500S"  (3HP 8A 1.5KW 220V VFD Single To 3 Phase).   The inverter defaults close enough to work right out of the box.


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## 34_40

WEL0058 said:


> Would appreciate.  Just asking if anyone has this lathe with QCGB to trace out the cover and a few dimensions would help.   Also though about reusing the back halve of the original cover and build off that.  Some thing unique.



You said you were in no hurry so I haven't started..  just let me know when you're ready to go.I am also going to ask you another question.. In my "parlance" the quick change gearbox is mounted on the lower left front of the lathe.  But I am understanding that you wish to replicate the cover on the end / far left, where the tumbler change gears are. 

Am I understanding this correctly?  You want the end cover over the gears  left end?


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## WEL0058

34_40 said:


> You said you were in no hurry so I haven't started..  just let me know when you're ready to go.I am also going to ask you another question.. In my "parlance" the quick change gearbox is mounted on the lower left front of the lathe.  But I am understanding that you wish to replicate the cover on the end / far left, where the tumbler change gears are.
> 
> Am I understanding this correctly?  You want the end cover over the gears  left end?



I assume you have same lathe.  You are correct that I am in no hurry to fab the gear train cover.  Just what to get the lathe back  together so I can move on and wrap some other projects.

Have a Cub Cadet garden tractor converting to power steering and finish up the 10 x 16 deck replacement.  Waiting on new aluminum railing which should be two weeks.

Took some picture this evening...

Any one using a XinShuang Yuan "XSY-AT1-1500S" VFD?


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## 34_40

I have a Model 108 Clausing.    I am the second owner of this one.   When the HL Bouton of Bourne Massachusetts factory was closing to move to Wareham , MA   my friend who was their machinist saved this one from the scrapper to get it to me.


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## 34_40

I also have a couple Cub Cadets,  a model 73 and a 169.   The 73 was my FIL's  he bought it new in 1970.  I got it when he passed.
The 169 I bought some 5 years ago.  Started a rebuild/restore.   I don't have a good pic of the 73, but here's the 169.


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## WEL0058

Being a diesel guy, I have two CCC 782D with the D600 Kubota engine.  One is for mowing and the other is for everything else.  I love these small Kubota diesels.  Have six Kubota engines powering different equipment.

See your 169 is ready for snow duty.  Is that the 42” blower.  I have the QA42 only used it once in ten years.  May be you can send some snow my way this year.  ;<)

Bob G


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## 34_40

Yep, we have orange equipment all over the farm.  Good stuff there!
And yes the 169 is setup for snow duty.  42" snow thrower but we haven't had but 1 good snow a few years back!  
But that's alright..  I like throwing the snow around but I don't like being cold anymore!  LOL...  so if we are getting any snow, I'll try my hardest to make sure you get it all!LOL


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## WEL0058

Another update.

Finally finished working on the lathe cabinet and all painting completed.  Now working on installing two LED fixture into cabinet.  Going the fab a door closure switch to turn the light on when the cabinet door is opened.

Also have finished programing and testing the XSY-AT1 1.5KW VFD on test bench.  Will be keeping the lathe’s Allen-Bradley push button switches and add two more for jogging.  Also adding a five-turn 10K ohm potentiometer for remote speed control.  Also looking to see if can setup a speed sensor on the lathe spindle.  Not a lot of room.  Will see.

Attached listed of VFD parameter changes to help any one out setting up an AT VDF.

This link at ‘mycncuk.com’ was helpful.

Next will be mounting a used 12x14” enclosure on side of the cabinet for 15a breaker and VFD.  Be so glad when the lathe is mated back on the cabinet...

Bob G


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## WEL0058

Well another update.  This a great point in the project - seeing all the final components coming together again. 

Rolled the cabinet to the location where it will be anchored to the floor.  Rough leveled the cabinet and rolled the back six feet.  Hoisted the lathe onto cabinet, mount the 3 phase motor, installed the VFD enclosure.

Now working on wiring everything back up.

Question:  What type of armor flexing tubing is this?  I have only seen/used FMC ”Greenfield” style metal tubing.  I have only seen this style on this lathe.  Is tubing and fittings still available today?

I still have not decide the final layout of the Start/Stop, Forward/Reverse, Jog AB 800T switches. 

Does any one have an opinion which prefer switch layouts?   The first photo ‘Reverse-Forward-Stop’ was how the switches where original arranged.  This is the only lathe I have ever used. 

Thanks, Bob G.


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## wa5cab

Personally, none of the above.  I would go with:

FORWARD.......STOP.......REVERSE
JOG FWD.............................JOG  REV

For reference, I am right handed.  Most of my vehicles have been left hand drive but for around 20 years, one Land Rover was RHD and the other two were LHD.


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## WEL0058

I can see your point.    Is your lathe controls on tether or fixed?   On this lathe, the controls are fixed in the original location on left under the headstock.

This was my fathers lathe which just had holes drill into the cabinet.  All the wiring where exposed inside.   It also had two 110v AC receptacles with exposed wiring using lamp ripcord.  Not sure if my dad wired this way or this was done by previous owner.    

I got shocked reaching into back corner once and vowed to fix it.    I just welded in an 8x8 junction box for lighting and controls with EMT extending into the enclosure.  

I know the rural delivery drivers love RHD.  Any of your LR diesel?

Thank you for the response, Bob G.


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## wa5cab

Bob,

First, last night (actually this morning) I quit and went to bed right after writing the above and without proof reading it, and forgot that the text editor that this site uses doesn't believe in double spaces or multiple spaces so it soft deleted all but one in each case so destroying the intent, which was to have the JOG REV button straight under the REVERSE button, not as it was shown after saving.  So I replaced the spaces with periods as place holders. If If you treat the periods as though they were spaces, it now pretty much looks right.

I have an Atlas 3996 (bought new in 1981 and currently the newest one known to exist).  I have never seen any need on it for the JOG feature so the motor switch is a lever operated drum switch mounted up under the edge of the drip pan so as to avoid risk of someone accidentally hitting it.  UP is FWD, DOWN is REV and CENTER is OFF.  And the switch is of the mechanically more complex type that cannot be changed from FWD straight to REV without pausing in  the OFF position.  However, I am (or was before getting "retired") an EE and during my 30+ years in the Oil Patch did both Electrical and Electronic design or was responsible for same.

Over the past 51 years, I have always owned at least one LR, two of which were Series IIA 2.25L Diesels.  I finally succumbed to having more comfort and the current daily driver is a 5.0L Petrol Disco 4.


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## WEL0058

Robert,

I was able to picture what you where describing in the original post.  I added the 'Jog' switches since feature is already designed into the VFD and $20 for the two additional AB switches.  Have seen the 'Jog' function mostly being used during tapping operations.  Another thing about using the VFD, you can program the ramping up and ramping down of the spindle.  During testing going between forward and reverse, the VFD is now set to smoothly slowly down, pause and smoothly change direct and ramp up.  

Can understand mounting drum switch under the chip pan if not a full cabinet.  
Looked up the Atlas 3996 lathe.  Watch a demo off the lathe on YT.   Can see some of the Clausing influence in the Atlas lathe.  They definitely kept the Atlas gearbox.

Used to watch the British  'Junkyard War' and was impressed what one can do with an old Land Rover.   Definitely a beast of a machine.

By the way I am left handed for most things.  So far I lean to first layout.  I like the [Stop] switch being the closest.


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## wa5cab

OK.  If you are used to haviing the STOP button at the right end, then do it that way.  My way was the generic way, generally best for the general public.  Just put the JOG REV switch under the REVERSE button.

The Atlas 3900 Series (less the 6" 3950) did come out after Atlas bought Clausing.  The only major change from the previous models besides a general increase of weight was moving the tailstock lock from the front to the rear of the tailstock.  A lot of owners dislike that but it never bothered me.  The only other change of significance was that they kept the Atlas part numbers of all parts carried over from the previous models, which was good.  But all new parts, starting with the bed, got Clausing type part numbers, which was decidedly bad.  Clausing's part numbering system was one of the poorest I have seen.


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## WEL0058

Well have everything wired except the cabinet light switch.  Great to be able to spin up the lathe again...

I have a 15A breaker inside the enclosed plus a DPDT  selector master switch to turn on the VFD.  Have read that it is suggested to also install fast acting fuse between the CB and the inverter.  Is it necessary and any recommended fuse holder and fuses?

Got the two LED lights from Lowe’s.


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## Machine Shop Mike

WEL0058 said:


> Well making progress.  Disassemble the spindle from the head stock and left the back gear assembly in place.  Removed at the paint from the bed. It was literally flaking off to bare metal with the needle scaler.  Wire wheels, prime and paint with Rustulem medium gray paint.
> 
> Going to replace the five bearings in the QCGB with1622-2RS bearings.   The old double shield bearing stiff with old grease. Little bit a puzzle taking it a part. Like  a rubric cube.
> 
> What is the best order in disassembling the gearbox to replace the bearings?
> 
> I am replacing the standard apron with the advance apron.  Believe I have one from a 4800 lathe with oil sight gauge on bottom of tail stock side.  The standard carriage saddle holes are off by about  0.030“. Will oblong the saddle bore holes to fit the new apron.


Sir :  I have just got a clausing lathe 100 series mk-a and i would like to do the same thing as you on changing the apron over to a QCGB. Do you know of any available parts and advice? Thank you for your time> Mike


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## WEL0058

Machine Shop Mike said:


> Sir :  I have just got a clausing lathe 100 series mk-a and i would like to do the same thing as you on changing the apron over to a QCGB. Do you know of any available parts and advice? Thank you for your time> Mike



Hi Mike,  Love Missoula - My wife use to live in Helena Still have alot of friends in MT.

I was collecting parts on eBay 10-15 years ago.   As you probably notice, Model 100 parts are scarce now.  Do you have a serial# and any photos?

My lathe was the last revision 'Mk 3' before Atlas bought them out.  The Atlas version is 4800 series.  I have found small difference with some of the parts.  My lathe was original the 'Simplified' version.   Now it is mostly the advance version minus the hand clutch on the headstock and the carriage lead screw.  Had to grind a little bit of carriage casting to get the advance apron to mate to the carriage.

These are great small lathes to use.  Would like to see photos of your lathe.

Bob G.


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## WEL0058

Finish mounting a SPDT Momentary two position toggle switch to turn on the cabinet led lights when the door is opened.  Used a  Stihl oil container as a shield around the switch.  Pop rivet a piece of aluminum angle to push the toggle switch handle.


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## WEL0058

I bought an iGauge Absolute DRO 36” and 12” scales about five years ago.  Never got around to install it.  Good time to mount the scales before moving the cabinet to its final position.

Some one had posted about using magnets to temporary hold scales in place.  I collect the rare earth magnets out old hard disk drives.  Use heat gun to loosen the adhesive holding magnet to its bracket.  Ready to drill/tap two 1/4”  holes at the end of the carriage.  The bracket will attach the scale reader.   Will have the bed scales finished on the next post.

Been quiet around here lately...


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## Machine Shop Mike

Bob:
Do you know if a apron off of a clausing 4804 will fit on a clausing 100 series mk3a lathe?
Thank you for your time.
Mike


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## Machine Shop Mike

WEL0058 said:


> Hi Mike,  Love Missoula - My wife use to live in Helena Still have alot of friends in MT.
> 
> I was collecting parts on eBay 10-15 years ago.   As you probably notice, Model 100 parts are scarce now.  Do you have a serial# and any photos?
> 
> My lathe was the last revision 'Mk 3' before Atlas bought them out.  The Atlas version is 4800 series.  I have found small difference with some of the parts.  My lathe was original the 'Simplified' version.   Now it is mostly the advance version minus the hand clutch on the headstock and the carriage lead screw.  Had to grind a little bit of carriage casting to get the advance apron to mate to the carriage.
> 
> These are great small lathes to use.  Would like to see photos of your lathe.
> 
> Bob G.


Bob :
I found a apron and lead screw off a clausing 4804 lathe. Do you think it will fit?
Thank
Mike


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## WEL0058

Machine Shop Mike said:


> Bob :
> I found a apron and lead screw off a clausing 4804 lathe. Do you think it will fit?
> Thank
> Mike



Hi Mike,  

The QCGB and the advance apron I installed on my lathe was definitely from a Atlas-Clausing 4808 lathe.   The gearbox fit perfectly.  The apron was not exact bolt in.  Had to grind about 1/8" carriage casting where the apron mounted and two apron holes where off by 0.030" enough that I filed the carriage holes in order to bolt .    The other difference between the two lathes is the lead screw diameter.  The  100 is 3/4" and  4808 is 7/8" The thread pitch is the same. 




Are you referring to the lathe in the picture?  If so, I going to say the lathe really is a Clausing 100 Mk3.   Visit this website to see the differences.


Good history regarding Clausing lathes everyone refers to.






These lathes can usually be dated by getting the lathe serial number stamped in the lathe bed by the tailstock in photo above. 

A call or email to  Tom McNett" TMcNett@clausingsc.com at Clausing help identify the year was made or sold.

I also notice that all major component had a unique stamping#  so you can tell if the headstock, apron, carriage, bed, tailstock, etc was swapped out from another lathe.   This may because these components may have been fitted during assembly.

Bob g.


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## Machine Shop Mike

Machine Shop Mike said:


> Bob :
> I found a apron and lead screw off a clausing 4804 lathe. Do you think it will fit?
> Thank
> Mike





WEL0058 said:


> Hi Mike,
> 
> The QCGB and the advance apron I installed on my lathe was definitely from a Atlas-Clausing 4808 lathe.   The gearbox fit perfectly.  The apron was not exact bolt in.  Had to grind about 1/8" carriage casting where the apron mounted and two apron holes where off by 0.030" enough that I filed the carriage holes in order to bolt .    The other difference between the two lathes is the lead screw diameter.  The  100 is 3/4" and  4808 is 7/8" The thread pitch is the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you referring to the lathe in the picture?  If so, I going to say the lathe really is a Clausing 100 Mk3.   Visit this website to see the differences.
> 
> 
> Good history regarding Clausing lathes everyone refers to.
> 
> View attachment 345228
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These lathes can usually be dated by getting the lathe serial number stamped in the lathe bed by the tailstock in photo above.
> 
> A call or email to  Tom McNett" TMcNett@clausingsc.com at Clausing help identify the year was made or sold.
> 
> I also notice that all major component had a unique stamping#  so you can tell if the headstock, apron, carriage, bed, tailstock, etc was swapped out from another lathe.   This may because these components may have been fitted during assembly.
> 
> Bob g.


Bob:
Thank you for all the info and your help is greatly  appreciated.
Thank you for all your time.
Mike


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## WEL0058

Machine Shop Mike said:


> Bob:
> Thank you for all the info and your help is greatly  appreciated.
> Thank you for all your time.
> Mike



Mike,  Duh, guess the picture of the lathe you posted is 'your' lathe.  I did not catch it in your avatar.  I am going to say the gearbox on the 100 is the same on 4808.  I know the output shaft is the same diameter.    Main thing you want is getting the lead screw with the apron.

Do you have the gear train cover for your lathe?

Did you get the serial# off your lathe?  Curious to see about what year.   While cleaning up my lathe I though I saw some OD paint as first layer.  I used a needle scaler on my bed and all the paint just flaked off.

Bob.


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## Machine Shop Mike

WEL0058 said:


> Mike,  Duh, guess the picture of the lathe you posted is 'your' lathe.  I did not catch it in your avatar.  I am going to say the gearbox on the 100 is the same on 4808.  I know the output shaft is the same diameter.    Main thing you want is getting the lead screw with the apron.
> 
> Do you have the gear train cover for your lathe?
> 
> Did you get the serial# off your lathe?  Curious to see about what year.   While cleaning up my lathe I though I saw some OD paint as first layer.  I used a needle scaler on my bed and all the paint just flaked off.
> 
> Bob.


Bob:
I sent tom a e-mail and asked for info on the lathe serial number. the number stamped on the end of the lathe is 2348   QG*.
His e-mail came back  (out of office the week of the 23rd).
Thanks
Mike


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## Machine Shop Mike

Machine Shop Mike said:


> Bob:
> I sent tom a e-mail and asked for info on the lathe serial number. the number stamped on the end of the lathe is 2348   QG*.
> His e-mail came back  (out of office the week of the 23rd).
> Thanks
> Mike


Bob:
Yes I do have a gear box cover, I had it off for cleaning.
I don't have a drive belt guard. It would be nice to have it.
Thanks 
Mike


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## WEL0058

Mike,
I have seen people running lathe without the gear cover - accident waiting to happen.  The factory belt guard was extremely rare.  Only seen one Clausing 100 with a factory belt guard.  I plan to fab a belt guard cover.  

Newer 4808 had a motor mount attached to the lathe bed.  The motor tucks under the headstock cover and had a belt guard.  

If you know any one with a gear train cover, I am interested to purchase.

Bob G.


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## WEL0058

Wow another month flies by.  Been busy installing new railing on the new deck.

Lathe wise, have been working on the Yuriy‘s TouchDRO on the bench.  Bought the TouchDRO kit which requires some assembling...  Could not find the original iGaging double male USB mini-B cable.  Reworking another USB mini-B cable to work.  Still not getting the carriage scale working.  The crossfeed iGaging scale was plug and play.  When both scales are working and mount, they will require calibration using a 1-2-3 block to measure a 3.000” travel.

Bob G.


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## Bubba350

well0058 What a great thread.  I just inherited a Clausing 100.  I contacted Tom McNett and mine was purchased 5/02/1945.  I want to upgrade to 3 phase with a VFD.  I look forward to seeing your progress

Bubba


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## WEL0058

Hi Bubba - Welcome. Aboard

Great to have another Clausing 100 owner.  Did Tom have info who originally purchased your lathe?
Welcome to post photo of your lathe.  Nothing like lathe porn...

After you do your first VFD,  it is a simple process to use a 3-phase motor.  Biggest thing is knowing the VFD parameter settings.  I decided to do VFD on the cheap with a China AT1 inverter.  Post# 35 has photo of my parameters and link to a UK site regarding using the AT1 inverter.

Other main brand inverter mfg offer good documentation and support.  The next VFD may be my drill press.


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## Bubba350

Tom did not have who purchased it just when. Mine is S/N: 3985.  I will most likely go with a similar vfd I like the ability to jog,  also the kbac ones are getting expensive.  I bought one a couple years ago for a 2x72 belt grinder I built a couple years ago.

Bubba


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## WEL0058

Thank you Bubba posting photo of your lathe.

Well got two hours in this night.  One end of carriage scale mount is done.   Next mounting scale at the tail stock end and fab a cover for the scale.


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## WEL0058

Well got a chance to spend this weekend to  work on the lathe.  Shout out to Mike from Missoula, MT for hooking me up with a gear cover.  Got the X axis scale for the carriage travel finally mount and calibrated, test the X axis DRO, test the DRO for any EMI interferes from the VFD (unshielded PCB next to VFD - no problems noted) and installed the new gear cover.  Now working on the X-Axis scale cover then can move lathe to final location.

Bob G.


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## WEL0058

Scale cover done.  Ready to roll lathe to permanent location then level lathe.


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## 34_40

Not sure how I missed all the posts...  seems like I missed the past 6 months or so.  I thought this thread had gone cold but nope, your all here.
A lot of nice work showing in those posts too!  Good Job.


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## WEL0058

34_40 said:


> Not sure how I missed all the posts...  seems like I missed the past 6 months or so.  I thought this thread had gone cold but nope, your all here.
> A lot of nice work showing in those posts too!  Good Job.



Well this project has been going for eight months.  Another milestone,  bolted the cabinet to the floor tonight.  Started out just a fast paint job but mission creeped in. 

Yeah hate threads that go cold.  I am guilty of a few projects not getting completed. Will see this thread to point with lathe running again then just update the thread doing cross slide scale, DRO mount and spindle tachometer.

Need to complete my previous project putting power steering on my mowing Cub.

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=57307

By the revisiting this thread the photo of your snowblower Cub, is that a Farmall B in far left corner?

HaHa my mowing Farmall B was first incomplete project when dating my wife 20 years ago.

Bob G.


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## 34_40

WEL0058 said:


> Well this project has been going for eight months.  Another milestone,  bolted the cabinet to the floor tonight.  Started out just a fast paint job but mission creeped in.
> 
> Yeah hate threads that go cold.  I am guilty of a few projects not getting completed. Will see this thread to point with lathe running again then just update the thread doing cross slide scale, DRO mount and spindle tachometer.
> 
> Need to complete my previous project putting power steering on my mowing Cub.
> 
> https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=57307
> 
> By the revisiting this thread the photo of your snowblower Cub, is that a Farmall B in far left corner?
> 
> HaHa my mowing Farmall B was first incomplete project when dating my wife 20 years ago.
> 
> Bob G.


I had been reading this thread earlier and I never got any updates it seems.  So I was surprised to trip over and see all the progress. And very nice looking progress as well.  Glad you got the cover, it would've been a bear to make one.   I didn't know that cub website was still going! I thought they died off...  I must live in a cave! LOL...    That Farmall is a "47" A,  next to it are a 169 & 73 Cub Cadets..   all in various states of completion.. LOL


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## WEL0058

Glad you came back.  Hard to keep up with all the threads.  For the Cubs, I mainly use IHCudCadet and OnlyCubCadet.   I was trying hard to see if your Farmall was an A or a B.  Could not determine if it had a wide front end. Is your A still running?  I grew up in New Jersey with Farmall M’s.  We bought our 1941 Farmall BN back in 1982 and I drove it home 40 mile on a beautiful Saturday afternoon.  My brother followed with the pickup truck...

What project you are working on?  It starting warm up here no freezing at night.  See how long that will last.


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## 34_40

WEL0058 said:


> Glad you came back.  Hard to keep up with all the threads.  For the Cubs, I mainly use IHCudCadet and OnlyCubCadet.   I was trying hard to see if your Farmall was an A or a B.  Could not determine if it had a wide front end. Is your A still running?  I grew up in New Jersey with Farmall M’s.  We bought our 1941 Farmall BN back in 1982 and I drove it home 40 mile on a beautiful Saturday afternoon.  My brother followed with the pickup truck...
> 
> What project you are working on?  It starting warm up here no freezing at night.  See how long that will last.


I have been on the IHcubcadet site since the beginning, when it was simply a bulletin board.  Went through all the dramas too.  But I am still there and never went anwhere else.  The "A" is a wide front and yes, it runs, good too!  We had a Cub for a # of years and then sold it to someone on the other side of town,  so I drove it over, clear fall day,  "brisk" I guess would be the word to describe it.  Was quite a ride  LOL.   Projects that need finishing?  The 169,  it just won't start easily.  Need to discover why.. and tune it up.  I've been thinking it's getting time to retire so that means selling off the cubs and some other "stuff"..  we'll see.


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## WEL0058

Hi 34_40,  Do you have a first name and are you still ‘Just a beginner’?  ( ;<)

Are you referring to the ‘IH Registry’ meltdown crash?  A lot of the members never found their way home.  I missed Ken from Nova Scotia.

Now in the process leveling the cabinet and lathe bed.

Bob G.


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## 34_40

WEL0058 said:


> Hi 34_40,  Do you have a first name and are you still ‘Just a beginner’?  ( ;<)
> 
> Are you referring to the ‘IH Registry’ meltdown crash?  A lot of the members never found their way home.  I missed Ken from Nova Scotia.
> 
> Now in the process leveling the cabinet and lathe bed.
> 
> Bob G.


I'll always be a beginner! LOL  and my name is Mike Frade.   IH Registry, yes, it is one of those ordeals..  it was never really a "home" for me but I did like to keep up with a lot of the members who had been "across the street"  prior.    You are doing some wonderful work on this lathe, maybe after I retire I'll do the same to mine... or.. maybe not! LOL


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## WEL0058

Mike, As you noticed this project is still going - I am still working for at least another four years. 

Spent this weekend ‘leveling’ the lathe bed.   Being this cabinet is semi rigid, bolted it to the uneven concrete floor.  The cabinet is now rock solid.  In the past I was not fussy with the lathe being leveled when the cabinet was bolted to the wood skids.  Would just shim it keep it from rocking...

The plan is the level the lathe with my Starrett 98-6 level then final tune doing the ‘collet to collet’ test.

Doing all the shimming at the headstock / tailstock.  The  back headstock mount was the highest elevation.  Started leveling doing headstock / headstock align then will level to the tailstock end.  Had to shim front headstock about 0.155” to level. To level the front tailstock mount to the headstock would require about 0.250” shim to level. 

Did some reading on some machining forums.  With the lathe,  the critical relationship is the front way being perfectly parallel to the rear way.  If the bed is twisted, the ways are not in parallel to each other.  Some suggest not to use the top of the vee ways to level. Since it is likely not perfectly leveled since top may not perfectly machined and wear in the vee ways.  Suggestions to measure off the flat ways using 123 blocks.  Other suggest using the carriage crossslide way  to place the level and just crank carriage back and forth since the tool bit will be mounted here.

So this is what I am doing now since will not require minimum amount of shims.  For real thin shims possible using aluminum foil .001”, yogurt cover foil .004” , aluminum duct tape .005 ,  aluminum flashing .011”.  Made several 1/8” thick shims using 1-3/4” hole saw and drilling out 1/4” pilot hole with 3/8” bit.  Also using large fender washers  .064” thick for shims.


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## 34_40

WEL0058 said:


> Mike, As you noticed this project is still going - I am still working for at least another four years.  *I keep saying the same thing.. Just 1 more year, 3 times!*
> 
> The plan is the level the lathe with my Starrett 98-6 level then final tune doing the ‘collet to collet’ test.
> 
> Doing all the shimming at the headstock / tailstock.  The  back headstock mount was the highest elevation.  Started leveling doing headstock / headstock align then will level to the tailstock end.  Had to shim front headstock about 0.155” to level. To level the front tailstock mount to the headstock would require about 0.250” shim to level.
> 
> So this is what I am doing now since will not require minimum amount of shims.  For real thin shims possible using aluminum foil .001”, yogurt cover foil .004” , aluminum duct tape .005 ,  aluminum flashing .011”.  Made several 1/8” thick shims using 1-3/4” hole saw and drilling out 1/4” pilot hole with 3/8” bit.  Also using large fender washers  .064” thick for shims. *I've done some reading on leveling but I don't remember anyone mentioning shimming the headstock separately.. or am I mis-reading this?   *


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## WEL0058

Mike sorry for confusion.  I was referring end of lathe bed mounts - headstock end / tailstock end.


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## 34_40

okay, thanks for clearing that up!  At my age I am easily confused!  rotflmao!!  HAHAHA


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## WEL0058

Well did not get much done this weekend.   This mill followed me home on Saturday.  Been looking for a ‘A1S’ style milling machine for a year now.  A week ago this mill was only posted on CL for 27 minutes when I found it.  Contacted the seller immediately and she agree to give me first shot.  The mill is a 1979 Select Machine Tool model 1/2V 7x30” knee mill made in Taiwan With a lot of tooling.

Bought a HF 1T shop crane and a HF 8T air/hydraulic jack. Modified with five foot 2” x 3/16” square tubing the extend the reach and height. Lock all the travels and check for backlash with very little movement.  Lead screws are adjustable split nuts.  Forgot to take any pictures moving it.


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## Weldingrod1

You know what we have to say about a score like that!!!

Looks a lot like my Rockwell, but with three pulleys. Is it a knee mill?

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## WEL0058

Yes it is a knee mill.  I heard the Taiwan  A1S design is based on Clausing 8520 and Rockwell 100 design.  Some people call these mills (Husky VOS-A1S, Enco 100-5100 / 100-5200, Grizzly 1004/1008/0728-0731, HF 40939, Jet JVM-830 & 836, etc) Clausing 8520 clones.  These mills are still being produced...

Here is a better view after I unloaded.


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## 34_40

SCORE!   That is great!  With tooling to boot!  Good for you. Looks to be in good shape.
Now the tunnel really opens up for you to fall in.  What's next DRO?  LOL.
Ask me how I know!


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## 34_40

Not sure why my computer seems to put up multiples of my posts..  sorry


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## WEL0058

34_40 said:


> SCORE!   That is great!  With tooling to boot!  Good for you. Looks to be in good shape.
> Now the tunnel really opens up for you to fall in.  What's next DRO?  LOL.
> Ask me how I know!


Hi Mike,

A DRO would be on the short list after getting the mill cleaned up and back together.  Perfect opportunity using the mill to machine the brackets for DRO.    No more cave man mill with grinders, hand files and table saws.

I am moving this post to my new thread over in the  ASIAN LATHES & MILLS - My ‘new’ Select 1/2V Milling Machine

Bob G.


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## 34_40

I've been doing a bunch or research suddenly on DRO's... my .."uncle"...   sent me some monies!  LOL


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## WEL0058

Another update finish doing basic leveling today.

Leveling using a Starrett 98 6” level. Not getting consisting reading vee way to vee way with a flat to flat way (using 123 blocks) reading.  Used the tailstock base as a sled to get the bed trued.  Followed up with level shimmed on carriage at headstock and traveled down to the tailstock with bubble in same position several times.

Calling this good enough. Possible level might drift after using the lathe - will recheck later on.  So now good enough to do the two-collar test.  In process now reassembling rest of the lathe.


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## 34_40

I'm digging your attention to detail.  "Leveling" is something I really should do but, I've never worked to a very high level of accuracy.  And now thinking about it,  I haven't done many long projects / parts that would show much drift from misalignment.


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## WEL0058

Thanks Mike,

Well I want to see how much improvement tighten up and making things more rigid will be.  The way the lathe was setup before, was getting about 0.003“ taper along 6” shaft.  The lathe was not leveled and on a wood skid.

Tailstock back together but getting binding with my crossfeed lead screw.  Once get this resolve will be able to make some chip.


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## 34_40

WEL0058 said:


> Thanks Mike,
> 
> Well I want to see how much improvement tighten up and making things more rigid will be.  The way the lathe was setup before, was getting about 0.003“ taper along 6” shaft.  The lathe was not leveled and on a wood skid.
> 
> Tailstock back together but getting binding with my crossfeed lead screw.  Once get this resolve will be able to make some chip.


I'm waiting for that day.  You've done such a fine job so far, I'd like to see what kind of precision you can get out of the ol' girl.


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## WEL0058

_Hi Stefan The gear Q_-540-S is 0.500 thick imperial.  Photos of geartrain


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## toosix

Thanks Bob, that is going to help a lot.


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## WEL0058

Stephan - How you are making out on your lathe?

Well it has been a while since last post.   Left off with my cross slide screw bent is several places beside it had wear in the middle could feel with new nut.   Was going to try to turn ACME threads and make a new screw.   Look at this project really need a follower to keep the threading operation from defecting the shaft. 

Checked in with Tom at Clausing but no longer have the 100 Mk3 cross slide screw but they still produce the cross slide screw Part# Q-352 for the 4800 series and several other models.  For $189 for a new screw, gear and nut, that price did not seem that bad consider the extra tooling and labor.  Looking at the other  Clausing parts manuals, the saddle, cross slide and compound share the same parts with the 200, 6300, 5300 and several other lathes.   The 5900 is a different animal...    Will follow up more pictures this week.


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## WEL0058

Well just merging my other thread into here...

Replacing my Clausing 100 mk3 cross slide screw. Was going to try turning a new cross slide screw but did not have a follower.

Tom McNett at Clausing said the crossslide screw no longer available. Decided to retro the 4800 series cross slide screw part# Q-352 on my lathe. Ordered the Q-352 from Clausing for $189. There was a 2 to 3 week lead time. Received the screw which also include the nut and gear.

Replacing my 100 mk3 crossslide with a crossslide from a Clausing 200 lathe. It is the same casting as the 4800 but does not have the recess milled for the taper attachment or chip guard. Have already rough milled a 0.750 x 0.125” recess.

Need to know the following:

1. Recess width

2. Recess depth

3. Distance between two screw holes

4. Distance between screw hole and edge of recess

5. Assume holes are 1/4 UNC threads

Appreciate any information,

Bob G.

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## WEL0058

Well I reached out to Tom McNett and he came through with two drawings. The 4800/6300 cross slide part# is DL-458 and the cross slide shield# Q-560.

I see the Q-560 in the parts diagram but not sure how it fits in. Will make one from the drawing see how it goes.


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## WEL0058

Purchased a Clausing 200 cross slide.  Milled a 2.5” x 0.060” between the dove tail for the chip shield and notch top rear of slide for chip guard. 

Made the chip shield out of 10 5/8 x 2 1/2” 16 gauge stainless steel.  Used the mill with center bit to scratch the shield layout.   Used cobalt drill bit to drill the inside corners.  Used 1mm thick abrasive disk for the straight cuts.  The layup took three times longer that the time it took to cut out.

Made the chip guard from 3-1/2 x 6 x 1/4” cold roll steel.  Drilled two 1/4” holes and counter sink with 1/2” 82 degree zero-flute counter bore bit for the flat head screws.


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## WEL0058

Ready test fit the and see how going to mount the 6” iGaging Absolute DRO to back side of the cross slide.


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## WEL0058

Well finally got the iGaging scale mounted to the crossslide.  I can now paint the casting and do final assembling.  My new (to me) milling machine was put to good use milling flat surfaces to mount chip guard, shield and making brackets.  
The hardest thing was drilling 1/8” hole at the end of of the shorten 12” scale. Many hours drill/sharping cobalt M42 drill bits.   Was looking at ordering a carbide endmill.  Ending up using a 1/8” tungsten carbide cutting bit from Lowes on my DreMel tool.  Five minutes job was done.


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## seagiant

Hi,
        Thought I would show mine.

I have had it about 10 years now and does what I need but not a Machinist just have fun fixing Reloading Presses and light Gunsmithing.

Seem to use it all the time for one thing or another.

I paid $1500 for it which was more than I wanted to pay but was a Friend I bought it from and he had rewired the motor and built a stout bench for it.

Was gifted an Dorian AXA Toolpost and run carbide most of the time, love those Timkin Bearings, she will spin!


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## 34_40

OOOoo that is nice!  Good to hear it's working too. I've got a 108 Clausing but mine doesn't have the clutch setup.  Don't use mine daily (or even monthly LOL)  but it works when I need it to.


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## seagiant

Hi,
        The Clutch/Brake, does not work on mine either...

I just lay my hand on the chuck to stop it and never a problem.

Just cut back and recrowned a pistol barrel after boring a jig to hold the barrel.

Would love to have a new PM 13" Lathe but too much $$$ and too late in the game now!

Does what I need and happy to have it!


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## 34_40

That is so cool! Don't see to many of these ol' girls "doin' stuff" in pictures.  Thanks for sharing them.


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## WEL0058

Hi SG,

You got a great lathe there.  How much wear was on your lathe?  Never done any gunsmithing.  How hard is the barrel?

Hi Mike - How are doing?

Been a while since working on my lathe.  Help another member who had an early 100 with only the basic apron and no powered cross feed.  One of his apron gears broken/stripped.   Sold him old standard apron with matching saddle and compound to get him going again.

Well I ran into a problem with saddle Q-350.  It has more wear in the vee way than originally thought  ( 0.030 - 0.040”).   Most of the wear is at the left front vee way.  With everything assembled (saddle, apron, lead screw) was getting bind by headstock and excessive clearance with the traversing rack/pinion.

Will need to remill the vee way so insert can be installed.  I do not know if I am up to this task or be easier to out source the work.

Bob G.


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## seagiant

Hi,
        My Lathe is not to bad on wear as it was in storage for years, and was always owned by Hobbyist from the story I got.

It does not leave a perfect finish from cutting with the feed, but still looking into that.

Might just be the wear and nothing I can do but is not that bad just not as good as a new modern lathe.

Here are a few pics of a tightening block I made for a old Rock Island Vice.

Was trying to repair the swivel function and it works pretty good now.

As you can see, I'm just self taught, so always learning as I go, but enjoy myself, anyway!

I also have a BP Mill so that helps also.


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## 34_40

Hi Bob G., nice to see you here once again.  And helping another fella out too. NICE!.   Sorry to learn of your issue tho.  I'm not sure what a good way to fix this might be.  have the ways ground?  bring it back to parrallel?     Seagiant, I've got some bits that leave a poor finish and others that cut like a diamond.  I find a lot of it is in the grind and I don't play to much with carbide.. Some..not a lot tho'.


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## WEL0058

seagiant said:


> My Lathe is not to bad on wear as it was in storage for years, and was always owned by Hobbyist from the story I got.
> It does not leave a perfect finish from cutting with the feed, but still looking into that.
> Might just be the wear and nothing I can do but is not that bad just not as good as a new modern lathe.


Short of ground finish, I use crocus cloth at high speed to smooth out the high spots.


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## WEL0058

34_40 said:


> Hi Bob G., nice to see you here once again.  And helping another fella out too. NICE!.   Sorry to learn of your issue tho.  I'm not sure what a good way to fix this might be.  have the ways ground?  bring it back to parrallel?     Seagiant, I've got some bits that leave a poor finish and others that cut like a diamond.  I find a lot of it is in the grind and I don't play to much with carbide.. Some..not a lot tho'.


Mike,  My ways have some wear but mostly nicks which had stoned out the high spots.   I did not realize how much wear was in the saddle v ways.   Need to raise the saddle backup to the original position so everything is back into proper relation. 

From what I have read, the proper way to raise the saddle is to machine the saddle’s vee way so inserts can be epoxied in.  Common inserts are made of Turcite B, Rulon, Delrin AF.  There is also a product called Moglice which is putty resin which placed into the v-way and saddle is placed onto the lathe bed to form the new v-way.  Still have to mill out the existing v-way since the Mollice thickness needs to be at least 0.040” thick.  You also need to make brackets to precisely hold the the saddle up while the putty hardens in 24 hours.

Bob G.


----------

