# What size arbor press needed to broach 3/16 - 3/8" keyways in gears and pulleys



## ome (Sep 21, 2013)

Hi guys,
what size arbor press would you advise to get for enough room to work with the broach, and be able to develop a feel for when things are heading south. 
Thanks in advance,
jon


----------



## rgray (Sep 21, 2013)

I do quite a bit of broaching. Both square hole and keyway. It would take a large arbor press to have the height to clear...my 3/8 broarch is 9" long about 1/2" of it fits into the hole so if broaching through 1" material you need min 9 1/2 ". That may be more of a concern than the tonage. A press that can accept that lenght will likely have plenty of tonnage.
That said I use nothing but a hammer to drive my broaches.


----------



## Ray C (Sep 21, 2013)

BTW, it helps to mill or drill a hole in the place where the slot will be formed.  Makes life a little easier....

Ray


----------



## ome (Sep 21, 2013)

rgray said:


> I do quite a bit of broaching. Both square hole and keyway. It would take a large arbor press to have the height to clear...my 3/8 broarch is 9" long about 1/2" of it fits into the hole so if broaching through 1" material you need min 9 1/2 ". That may be more of a concern than the tonage. A press that can accept that lenght will likely have plenty of tonnage.
> That said I use nothing but a hammer to drive my broaches.


I have seen the limit of height on all but the big guys that way 300 ibs
i had seen a palmgreen at 70 lbs with 8 in capacity over table. 
The next one up is 12.5 in  and 160lb which is a bit heavy to drag down the basement. 
Enco sells a 12.5 ht cap and is 140lbs
and they sell a ratcheting model for $30 more and is 140lbs
can they be broken diwn into ligjter wt?

thanks
jon


----------



## rgray (Sep 21, 2013)

```
can they be broken diwn into ligjter wt?
```


Even completly taken apart the main casting is going to be most of the weight. I think racheting may cause a total loss of the feel for the broaching procces. I have never tied it that way, maybe someone else can weigh in on that.


----------



## ome (Sep 21, 2013)

Ray C said:


> BTW, it helps to mill or drill a hole in the place where the slot will be formed.  Makes life a little easier....
> 
> Ray


Thanks  Ray, that is a simple but very effectuve tip, thanks fir sharing

jon


----------



## Terrywerm (Sep 21, 2013)

Arbor presses with ratchet handles work just fine, no feel is lost at all, and you gain the advantage of always being able to get the arbor press handle in a "good spot" for optimum leverage and feel. Having done enough arbor press work over the years, I would not purchase one without the ratcheting handle. 

Naturally, this is just my opinion, and others may have different feelings and thoughts on the subject.


----------



## metalman (Sep 21, 2013)

A ratchet type arbor press IMHO has a big advantage. I broach with it all the time. It has good feedback and I like being able to set the handle where I have the best control.


----------



## kd4gij (Sep 21, 2013)

I would just get a 12 to 15 ton shop press You will have plinty of roome and with a hand pump you still get a good feel for what is going on. As long as you keep the broach streight, It is pritty evintless task. I use a 100ton press, push the button and catch the broach so it don't hit the floore.
,


----------



## Ray C (Sep 21, 2013)

I don't believe this was already mentioned but, when driving the broach, it's wise to repeat cycles of applying pressure then releasing tension after every tooth of travel.  This allows you to realign the piece and not risk snapping the broach.  (Trust me on this, I do a fair amount of slot cutting and broaching).


Ray


----------



## ome (Sep 22, 2013)

Ray C said:


> I don't believe this was already mentioned but, when driving the broach, it's wise to repeat cycles of applying pressure then releasing tension after every tooth of travel.  This allows you to realign the piece and not risk snapping the broach.  (Trust me on this, I do a fair amount of slot cutting and broaching).
> 
> 
> Ray


Hi Ray,
thanks, in your opinion , can that be done on a 10 ton shop press?
thanks,
jon


----------



## Ray C (Sep 22, 2013)

Sure!  Crank down for 1 tooth, release the pressure valve, make sure things are still lined up and repeat the process.

Easy shpeasy...

EDIT:  I forgot to mention dark cutting oil.  Don't forget a little of that too.  Makes a huge difference.


Ray



ome said:


> Hi Ray,
> thanks, in your opinion , can that be done on a 10 ton shop press?
> thanks,
> jon


----------



## rgray (Sep 23, 2013)

```
I don't believe this was already mentioned but, when driving the broach, it's wise to repeat cycles of applying pressure then releasing tension after every tooth of travel. This allows you to realign the piece and not risk snapping the broach. (Trust me on this, I do a fair amount of slot cutting and broaching).
```


That would make sence to the lose of "feel" with a ratcheting arbor press.


----------



## Ray C (Sep 23, 2013)

Actually, you can see the broaches bed and they will snap -It's happened to me.  Those are made of tool steel, very hard and brittle.  


Ray



rgray said:


> ```
> I don't believe this was already mentioned but, when driving the broach, it's wise to repeat cycles of applying pressure then releasing tension after every tooth of travel. This allows you to realign the piece and not risk snapping the broach. (Trust me on this, I do a fair amount of slot cutting and broaching).
> ```
> 
> ...


----------

