# Beginning hobbyist lathe options-first post!!!



## JMhead (Apr 28, 2020)

Guys, been getting my shop in order and now it's time to tool her up. I've been around lathes, mills, etc my entire life but have limited experience actually operating lathes. I understand the tooling side of the hobby can run as deep as your pockets/wife will allow.  Strictly looking at the machine for this post. I'm considering the PM 1236T and also the Grizzly G0750G lathes. I will be turning a few rifle barrels, making farm equipment repairs, and playing in general. I have little expectations in the machine paying for itself. I look at it as a hobby, no more no less. I do however take my hobbies seriously and want to become a capable operator.  Any suggestions /input would be appreciated as I "don't know what I don't know"  Been lurking here for a few days and took the plunge to join, a wealth of knowledge here that can save a beginner like myself many headaches. Thanks for considering!! Saws, Mills, etc to follow!!


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## Tim9 (Apr 28, 2020)

Seems like you’re sold on new...but if I lived in your area...I think I’d check out used equipment dealers. I forget his name but I know there’s a big dealer in Georgia. I see his machines all the time. He’s got some really nice stuff listed quite regularly. Really nice industrial class machines.


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## JMhead (Apr 28, 2020)

I've looked the past month or so mostly on craigslist. I definitely would be interested in a good used lathe or mill, just don't know where to look and kinda skeerd of buying a problem. Also my initial thought is to avoid a 3 phase machine. Maybe I just don't know where to look!!!


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## Mitch Alsup (Apr 28, 2020)

a) check with your power company to see if you are even capable of have 3-phase routed to wherever. Many cities are not in a position to deliver 3-phase (Austin being one of those).

b) in lathe terms (and mill terms) bigger and heavier are better--but so is not having a 6 month project before you can use you 40-year old American iron lathe.

c) The PM 1236 and G4003G are pretty comparable lathes.

d) engine hoist is probably needed to place raised lathe (1200 pounds) on stands.


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## mksj (Apr 28, 2020)

You probably get more bang for your buck looking at the G0776 or G0709.  The G0776 is a bit bigger, and includes a DRO for just a little bit more. Both have pullout chip treys which are really nice. The G0709 has a universal gearbox, so fewer change gears. They all get positive reviews,  both of these seem to have better chucks and a few other items. If I was in the market for a Chinese mainland lathe I probably would give the nod to the G0709, one of the forum member's BGHansen who has one really likes his lathe. You can lookup his posts.








						13" x 40" Gunsmithing Lathe with DRO at Grizzly.com
					

<h1>G0776 13" x 40" Gunsmithing Lathe with DRO</h1> <h2>A precise lathe with a spider mount and DRO.</h2> <p>The G0776 13" x 40" Gunsmithing Lathe with DRO is called a "gunsmithing" lathe because it has features typically not found on standard lathes, such as a "spider" mount system and a large...




					www.grizzly.com
				











						14" x 40" Gunsmithing Gearhead Lathe at Grizzly.com
					

<h1>G0709 14" x 40" Gunsmithing Gearhead Lathe</h1> <h2>An accurate and powerful lathe.</h2> <p>What makes the G0709 14" x 40" Gunsmithing Gearhead Lathe a "gunsmithing" lathe is that it comes with features typically not found on standard lathes, such as the high-precision NSK bearings...




					www.grizzly.com
				




I looked at the G0750G many years ago and ended up with the 1340GT, for me it was more of a quality and finish issue. I had a Chinese mill previously and some experiences with the G4003G and was not happy with the quality. Tough call, the 1236GT is a very capable lathe, more comparable to the G4003G.  Three phase motors on a lathe does produce a better surface finish, but there are a lot of other factors that can also effect this. The larger/heavier lathes seem to have less issues with single phase motors, maybe because of the dampening effect of the mass. On the 1236GT/1340GT I have outlined how to do a basic VFD install which is fairly simple, but still adds $500-600 to the cost. Many of the add-ons, chucks, live centers, QCTP that come with the lathe packages are adequate, but the quality can be lacking. The G0750G, I think I would go up a notch. There is a learning curve, and it is pretty steep when you are starting out. Unless you know what you are looking for with used machines, I suggest you avoid that route unless you want to spend your time repairing and hunting for parts.


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## talvare (Apr 28, 2020)

JMhead said:


> Also my initial thought is to avoid a 3 phase machine.



Personally, I would prefer 3 phase. There is much more selection of industrial quality machinery with 3 phase power. It's really not a big deal to power up three phase machinery in a home shop. Many guys here have 3 phase equipment powered with VFD's or RPC's (variable frequency drives or rotary phase converters).  Just some food for thought.

Ted


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## erikmannie (Apr 28, 2020)

If I were in your shoes, I would choose the Precision Matthews machine that fit my needs & budget. That is what I did, and it worked very nicely for me. I especially like my DRO.


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## JMhead (Apr 28, 2020)

mksj said:


> You probably get more bang for your buck looking at the G0776 or G0709.  The G0776 is a bit bigger, and includes a DRO for just a little bit more. Both have pullout chip treys which are really nice. The G0709 has a universal gearbox, so fewer change gears. They all get positive reviews,  both of these seem to have better chucks and a few other items. If I was in the market for a Chinese mainland lathe I probably would give the nod to the G0709, one of the forum member's BGHansen who has one really likes his lathe. You can lookup his posts.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



As I understand it, the Grizzly lathes both the 4003G and the G0750G are both Chinese whereas the PM1236T is a Taiwanese model. Is the PM1236T a good candidate to change to VFD at a later date or is it an easier install prior to setting it up? I have no doubt that it's a better mousetrap just may need to get up and running and focus immediate purchases on tooling. Having said that I can absorb the extra cost if it makes more sense to go ahead and do it up front. I have a skid steer with forks that will handle over 2500lbs so I'm not overly concerned with lifting, I realize lifting it and mounting it are two different things and see where it could require a little patience. Which machine in the PM or Grizzly lineup would you point me towards if going new? Thanks


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## JMhead (Apr 28, 2020)

erikmannie said:


> If I were in your shoes, I would choose the Precision Matthews machine that fit my needs & budget. That is what I did, and it worked very nicely for me. I especially like my DRO.



Mind if I ask which model you chose/why and what you primarily machine?


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## JMhead (Apr 28, 2020)

Taiwan lathes are better, and cost more. Bigger is better, and cost more!!! I suppose one could solve this problem by buying a big Taiwan lathe but unfortunately I can't justify the $$$  Where is the balance, a Taiwan 1236 or maybe a Chinese 13/14- 40. Not trying to muddy the waters just trying to get opinions from you guys.


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## T Bredehoft (Apr 28, 2020)

Just a suggestsoin, PM lathes    with a T as a suffix were made in Tiwan,  without the T, China, there are those who will tell you a PM lathe made in China is noticabvle better than most other brands made in China. Matt (PM)  specifies tolerances and holds to them.


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## JMhead (Apr 28, 2020)

PM 1440BV with DRO.   Chinese but bigger, heavier and Variable speed ?? Thoughts on this model from PM?


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## Aaron_W (Apr 28, 2020)

There are easy and fairly inexpensive ways to deal with 3 phase. I don't like electrical work and I was able to install a VFD on my 3 phase mill. There are many people on this site who can walk you through a VFD or phase converter set up.

Many people avoid 3 phase because they don't understand it so you can often get a lower price on what is technically a better machine just because people are scared of "3 phase". The money you save will most likely be more than the cost of the VFD or converter.


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## Chipper5783 (Apr 29, 2020)

You are on a very slippery slope - "for just a few more $$, you can get . . . . . more."  Unless you are really focused on small items, then I (as most folks here) recommend getting the larger machine (subject to space and ability to manage weight and power).  Granted, bigger is not always better - there are limits.  For general mucking around, turning stuff - a 16" lathe would not be "too big", going to 18 or even 20" swing, while still fine for making 1/8" pins may get to be a pain.  The 14" lathe is not going to be "too big".  That is a very useful size machine.  The 1236T that you mentioned is probably a very nice machine - what I don't really like is the speed range - the bottom end at 90rpm is too fast if you have something large enough to take the gap out, and 1600rpm is a little slow for a small item (though I hardly ever run over 1000rpm, so not a show stopper).  Of course a VFD will fix both those issues - but why not start with a machine that is better set up to start with.

Personally, I like 1440BV speed range better, and it is already variable.  The 2" spindle bore would be a big step up over the 1.56" of your other option.  The carriage, toolpost mount and tailstock don't look very robust.  The 1440HD is much more robust, but the long headstock may be a show stopper for you (and doesn't have a 2" spindle bore).  How long do you need between centers?  40" is a useful size, but consider your needs and whether you are going to needs something longer.  Remember 40" is the absolute maximum, when you add a lathe chuck, or add a drill chuck in the tailstock it eats up those 40" - in practical terms you will lose about 10" of useful bed in tooling.

I think you are taking the right approach to ask people their opinion (you'll get plenty of that here).  So my opinion is that you should look at the features more than the brand sticker.

There is no "ideal" lathe - or any other machine for that matter.  If you do end up taking this hobby seriously, you'll end up with a quite a few machines and the reason is because certain machines work better for certain tasks.  My first lathe was a 15", 30 years later I got an 11" and I'd love to get a 20-22" swing machine.  I do general mucking around machining - I use the 15" lathe way, way, way more than the 11" (and the 11" is a well tooled, top quality piece of old English iron that is in excellent condition, compared to the 15" that is also well tooled /in good condition offshore knock off).

I suggest you pour as much cash as you can manage into the basic machine (whether you lean more towards larger or towards higher quality depends on your needs) - because those are things that you can't fix later.  Addons, such as tooling, DRO, VFD etc you can sort out as you wish or "need".  Wanting a bigger spindle bore, a larger swing etc is very hard to do much about.

Let us know how you make out.  David


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## Dabbler (Apr 29, 2020)

There's another dimension that makes a big difference.   How fast do you 'need' to start making chips?  Instant gratification tends to increase risk and costs a lot more.  I bought my first 12X37 lathe in 1980, for just over 2K$.  I used it for nearly 40 years before buying a 1440, used, out of frustration.  Not a great deal at just over 4K$.  Last year I bought my ultimate lathe, a 15X60 LeBlond, showroom condition, with 2k$ of tooling, for less than the other lathes combined.  It took patience, and having the money set aside to pounce.

Used doesn't have to be wrecked.  Used can be showroom condition.  Showroom lathes can be crap.   There is an element of risk in any purchase.  - Buying a lathe to later upgrade is also fairly costly and stressful.  I've been there with both lathes and mills.

What do I recommend?  What you plan to do with your lathe will dictate what you should buy. If you can't afford it, you have to save more.  If you have a thriving used market in your area, or have good social skills, you can promote friendships with machine shop owners - you can get a great lathe that way.  getting a good used lathe will save a lot of money, but takes even more patience and skill to get a really good one.  You might find one of our senior members in your area and pick their brain.

I'm done turning barrels, but my experience is that a 12X36 lathe is too small and light to work on barrels effectively.  -I know it CAN be done. but it isn't an enjoyable way to work on chambers and crowns.  I'll never -ever- contour a barrel blank after rifling (again).  The times I've tried it - the accuracy was complete garbage, a waste of money.  All my target barrels are cut rifled after profiling,  Then I cut the threads, crown and chamber.  Those operations can be done on a 12X36 -if- your through hole on your spindle is large enough, or your barrel is short enough.


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## Downunder Bob (Apr 29, 2020)

3ph v 1ph. I personally don't think it's very important., My own lathe is a 1216 from Taiwan, similar to the 12XX T range from PM. I could of got it with a 3 ph motor but chose not too,. BTW I have 3 ph available in my shop, I just didn't see the point The 1.5 HP single ph motor is quite strong enough for me, It is after all a hobby machine, Of course in an industrial capacity a 3ph machine might be better. 

I have seen many people on this and other forums decry single phase machines for poor finish. Now I have been around machines all my life, I trained as a Fitter & Turner/Tool Maker in the early 60's and I have never seen this poor single phase finish that some speak of.  for my money I would definitely go the taiwanese machine no matter what brand.


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## JMhead (Apr 29, 2020)

Thanks for all the replies. You guys have educated me vastly on the buying process. It makes good sense to me to buy as much base machine as I think I’ll ever need with the option to add features later such as DRO, tooling etc.  Understanding totally the slippery slope of for a few dollars more......  I am after all a beginning hobbyist but I don’t want to learn under handicapped conditions. Keep the suggestions coming, all are very much appreciated.


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## macardoso (Apr 29, 2020)

If you are talking hobby work, then understand that you don't need all the accessories and tooling from the get go. A 3 jaw chuck, 4 jaw chuck, toolpost, live center, and some measuring tools will get you 50% of the way there with very little cost.

I have a 12x36 and have been very pleased with its size and rigidity for the hobby work that I do. I don't think you'd go wrong with one. If I were to want to work on auto or farm equipment, I would want bigger. The integral chip pan lets you use coolant which is nice. A heavy cast iron base is another big plus as it helps with rigidity and leveling the lathe. Mine is flimsy sheet metal and I hate it.

DRO is not explicitly necessary but nice to have. You should probably learn to make accurate parts before you get a DRO because just having the number in front of you doesn't replace intuition on backlash, deflection, etc. that you pick up by running it without the DRO.


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## mksj (Apr 29, 2020)

Surface finish issues with single phase motor lathes is more common than you think, it may not be an issue for some, and some models seem to more predisposed to issues. One reason why gunsmiths historically preferred an all belt drive as opposed to a gear head design. As I indicated, the motor pulsations show up on the work surface, by increasing the mass of the drive system and using flexible motor mounts seems to improve the problem. One reason why I suggested a heavier lathe, this appears to be less of a problem and there are other features that are desirable.








						1340gt surface finish problem
					

O.K. guys, and gals, I've tried every speed/feed combo, every carbide insert I have, every HSS tool I have, I've even put  vibration isolation pads between the stand and the floor...nothing seems to work.  Here's what I get...   Please excuse my photography skills.  You can not only SEE the...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				











						Surface Finish Issues On 12x36 (long Post) + Kb Electronics Vfd Install
					

I have a couple of problems, and I now submit them to the group.  I shall attempt to thoroughly explain the problem and my methodology.  Please be patient.  First, the obligatory disclosure:  I have not contacted Matt, or QMT.  I am not upset.  I am not PO'd.  I just want to get it fixed...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				











						G4003g Motor Vibration Surface Finish Issues Fixed!!
					

Issue: The surface finish when the lathe was new was pretty decent, but quickly deteriorated as the lathe broke in to the point that this is what it looked like after about 15 hours run time. Yikes, this was at 70 rpm about .002 per revolution. It was less severe at 220 rpm but still very poor...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




You are a hobbyist, but buy once, cry once. I started out looking at 1228/1236 lathes, I ended up with a 1340GT and lather upgraded to a heavier lathe. A 1236-1440 range uses more common D1-4 or 5 chuck mounts, MT3 tailstock and usually BXA tooling, these are more common sizes and by careful purchasing you can get some good deals.  Start out at whatever level you are comfortable and can budget, you can add/upgrade components as you get more experience.


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## JMhead (Apr 29, 2020)

Starting to agree with buy once cry once and get a PM 1440GT and not have any regrets. You guys are much help


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## Janderso (Apr 29, 2020)

Welcome JMhead, I think you will find a bunch of great people are members of this forum.
You said you will be tinkering around with farm repairs and a little gunsmithing.
Dabler said it, a 12x36 is too small. You like the idea of the PM 1440GT. From everything I've seen and heard those are very nice lathes.
It's hard to know what you will do with your lathe once you get more experienced and gain confidence.
For farm repairs a 14X40 may also be too small. Only you will know what you will be working on.
I settled on a 15X50 and find it to be a good fit for me. I wouldn't want to go with anything smaller. The associated tooling is more expensive with the larger lathes though.
What ever you choose, if you buy a used machine, get the help from an experienced operator to qualify the purchase for quality, wear, damage, operating features etc.
My 2 cents.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Apr 29, 2020)

if you're willing to travel, which you probably will need to (lovely area, but rural), here are some examples of what pops up in that kind of class








						18" x 80" cc JET engine lathe - tools - by owner - sale
					

Sale is Pending. I have a JET (Taiwan built) 18" x 80"cc gap bed engine lathe. It runs, feeds and...



					charlotte.craigslist.org
				











						Clausing Colchester Metal Lathe with Taper Attachment and Tooling -...
					

For Sale Clausing Colchester Lathe 15"x 50"VERY GOOD Condition! NEW IN 1988 Lathe has just been...



					charlotte.craigslist.org
				











						Clausing Lathe - tools - by owner - sale
					

Clausing Metal Lathe. Think it is a 12 or 13 x 50. Currently wired for single phase, but original...



					greenville.craigslist.org
				











						Clausing Colchester 15" x 50" Engine Lathe with Newall C80 DRO -...
					

General Info: Stock #: CD-200108 Location: Stone Mountain, GA Brand: Clausing Colchester Approx....



					atlanta.craigslist.org
				











						2007 BIRMINGHAM LATHE YCL-1660 - tools - by owner - sale
					

2007 BIRMINGHAM 16" x 60" Geared Head Gap Bed Lathe, Model YCL-1660, 7.5 HP Motor (220/440V-3ph),...



					atlanta.craigslist.org
				











						Cincinnati Metal Lathe - tools - by owner - sale
					

13" geared head metal lathe (toolroom lathe), 3 hp., 13" swing, 36" between centers, 10" 3 jaw...



					charlotte.craigslist.org
				




for anything that includes working on farm stuff (repairs and maintenance I'm guessing), a 13-14" lathe would be the way to go, and at that size mass is king. From a quick look at the PM site, the 14" lathes are around 1800-2000lbs. An older American or Japanese lathe will typically be around 3000lbs or more for that size. Harder to move, but not a major sea change and it's something you'll hopefully be doing only once.

There are a couple of used machine tool dealers in your near abroad, might be worth checking in with them to see what they have. 

One big plus about private sellers however is that you're likely to get alot more tooling with the lathe, and the cost of that tooling adds up real quick!


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## kb58 (Apr 29, 2020)

talvare said:


> Personally, I would prefer 3 phase. There is much more selection of industrial quality machinery with 3 phase power. It's really not a big deal to power up three phase machinery in a home shop. Many guys here have 3 phase equipment powered with VFD's or RPC's (variable frequency drives or rotary phase converters).  Just some food for thought.
> 
> Ted


Many shops offloading these things are run by older guys who don't know about the modern solid state 3-phase converters, and neither do many typical buyers. Because of this, demand for 3-phase equipment without a phase converter is less, harder to sell, and as a result, you tend to get more for your money. I'm still tickled that I was able to get my Takisawa for the price I did, and even after adding the VFD, it's a lot of machine for the money. No regrets.


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## JMhead (Apr 29, 2020)

I think a 1440 is a good place to settle for my needs. I don’t mind skipping on a job that may be to big periodically. I’m  using the 80/20 approach and I think 80% or more of my projects will fit nicely in a 1440. Question is, should I size for the wheelhouse of my desired work or for outlier?


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## BGHansen (Apr 29, 2020)

+1 on the G0709 lathe for a 14 x 40.  I've had mine for 5 years and have been very happy with it.  Like mentioned by many above and on many posts here, it depends on your projects, budget and space available.  No epiphany here, but you can do small work on a large lathe but not the converse.  For a mill, I'd favor a knee or square column style.  I had a Grizzly round column mill and did some decent work, but HATED having to relocate X and Y when I had to move the head up and down.  Just my preference.

I did a little Craig's List "creeping" in your area and frankly looks a little dry at this time though I did find these "bargains":








Didn't see any lathes, but there's maybe a decent mill South of Birmingham.  Chevalier knee mill for $1000.  However, I shy away from ads where the seller has the machine staged outside.  Kind of like what's your expectation if you meet a gal and she didn't bother showering or putting on any make up.

Good luck with the hunt!

Bruce









						Milling machine - tools - by owner - sale
					

Milling machine it is 3 ph is the reason I am saling $1000.00 abo



					montgomery.craigslist.org


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## mksj (Apr 29, 2020)

I would look at what you think you will be doing with the lathe and work on a size that fits yours needs. I still believe that for a first lathe that a 1340-1440 would be a better fit and size, vs. going really big and heavy. Going bigger, you do not want to have to use a crane to switch out chucks and the tooling costs go up significantly.  Big 3 phase motors (above 3 Hp) the cost of installing a VFD go up significantly and you are more relegated to using a RPC.

A suggestion based on a balance of cost/size and given you may be interested in larger projects would be to look at the QMT 1440GS, 1440BV or Grizzly G0709.  The 1440GS, 1440BV have a short spindle with a 2" spindle bore which is a selling point for this size lathe.  The 1440GS has a cast iron base, 1440GS/1440BV are ~1800lbs, G0709 is 1550lbs, they all are going to be very stable and I doubt you will have any issues going single phase or VFD with the BV. The 1440GT is a big step up in cost, you need to decide what you can afford and leave a margin for tooling/materials. Below are a few previous posts on similar discussions and also some information on how one would do a VFD install if you choose that route on the QMT GT 3 phase models. You need to factor if you want to go turnkey or spend some time building out a system.

Google "site:www.hobby-machinist.com pm-1440gs"
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/pm1340gt-vs-pm1440bv.57342/#post-471727








						Pm1340gt Lathe Basic Vfd Control Conversion Using The Stock Control Board And Switches
					

Many individuals buy the PM1340GT lathe as a 3 phase machine with the intent to convert it over to a VFD system, the usual VFD that is used is the Hitachi WJ200-015SF. Unfortunately the conversion often requires a somewhat complex and costly conversion process to optimize many of the VFD...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				











						PM-1440GT Basic Wiring Changes for using the Contactors to switch the VFD inputs
					

I previously outlined the use of new contactors to use to switch the VFD inputs when doing a basic 3 phase VFD lathe conversion, this retains the same functions (and interlocks) as the stock lathe and should operate the same. The VFD adds speed control, and acceleration deceleration control. In...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


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## Tim9 (Apr 29, 2020)

Well...my bad. I found the dealer I was thinking about but all of his machines cost more than the PM1236. In all honesty, PM seems to have nice machines.

FWIW, the dealer is in Stone Mountain Georgia.....where ever the hell that is compared to you I have no clue.
But....he’s got a beautiful Clausing Cholchester ....except I’m not sure I’d want the hassle of the hydraulic tracer. Just wouldn’t need a tracer that much for all that extra to go wrong.








						Clausing Colchester C 13" x 36" Engine Lathe w/ Hydraulic Tracer Attachment - The Equipment Hub
					

Visit here to learn more about this Clausing Colchester C 13" x 36" Engine Lathe w/ Hydraulic Tracer Attachment for sale. Contact us today for additional details.




					www.theequipmenthub.com
				












						Clausing Colchester 15" x 50" Engine Lathe with Newall C80 DRO - The Equipment Hub
					

Visit here to learn more about this Clausing Colchester 15" x 50" Engine Lathe with Newall C80 DRO for sale. Contact us today for additional details.




					www.theequipmenthub.com
				




But....7500 is a lot for a hobbyist. Still, the second link is one hell of a nice machine. But one had better have a decent slab for that. Not sure many homeowners garages are set up for 4000.00 machines....unless you live in an area where there’s bedrock a few feet down.


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## epanzella (Apr 29, 2020)

I have the Grizzly G4003G gunsmith lathe for 6 years. I've built 2 rifles on it along with many other projects and I'm very happy with it.


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## JMhead (Apr 29, 2020)

All the PM 1440 machines Other than the GT are around 3 months away from shipping. The PM1440GT Price tag would be cutting my tooling budget somewhat. The Grizzly 0709 has some good reviews by some of you current owners so that’s a real option at this point. I’m not totally against waiting a few months on the right machine but if the same quality/performance is available now in the 0709 why wait.


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## epanzella (Apr 29, 2020)

Be aware that the lathes with the enclosed gearboxs need gear changes for the range of common inch threads and feeds. The ones with the open Norton  gearbox (4002-3 series) will do 4 to 112 TPI with no gear changes. Even these machines, however, need some gear changes for metric.  I don't know if this matters to you but it was a game changer for me.


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## BGHansen (Apr 29, 2020)

epanzella said:


> Be aware that the lathes with the enclosed gearboxs need gear changes for the range of common inch threads and feeds. The ones with the open Norton  gearbox (4002-3 series) will do 4 to 112 TPI with no gear changes. Even these machines, however, need some gear changes for metric.  I don't know if this matters to you but it was a game changer for me.


That's one of the pluses of the universal gear box in the G0709. There are no additional change gears to fiddle with.  The full range does require a gear swap on the quadrant for around >13 tpi as opposed to <13 tpi. One knob changes between English and Metric which was one of the selling points for me. I think it's the G0750 from Grizzly that has a really bad qcgb for gear changes. Pretty much have to fiddle with change gears in the quadrant when going between commons like 13, 16, 18 and 20.  I'd pass on that lathe for that reason. 

Bruce


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## JMhead (Apr 29, 2020)

BGHansen said:


> That's one of the pluses of the universal gear box in the G0709. There are no additional change gears to fiddle with.  The full range does require a gear swap on the quadrant for around >13 tpi as opposed to <13 tpi. One knob changes between English and Metric which was one of the selling points for me. I think it's the G0750 from Grizzly that has a really bad qcgb for gear changes. Pretty much have to fiddle with change gears in the quadrant when going between commons like 13, 16, 18 and 20.  I'd pass on that lathe for that reason.
> 
> Bruce


Bruce, how do you mainly use your G0709? Is your setup single phase , have you modified anything from original?


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## BGHansen (Apr 29, 2020)

Mine is a stock single phase. I changed the clutch-style micrometer dial to a knurled thumbscrew on the cross feed. I added a DRO, caliper type tail stock read out, and a taper attachment. I mainly putter, fix stuff around the house. I reproduce parts for old Erector sets which mainly is brass, sheet metal and some stainless. I've turned a fair amount of drill rod to make custom punches and dies too. Not to much that couldn't be done on a 12 x 24 lathe.

Bruce


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## JMhead (Apr 30, 2020)

erikmannie said:


> If I were in your shoes, I would choose the Precision Matthews machine that fit my needs & budget. That is what I did, and it worked very nicely for me. I especially like my DRO.


Mind if I ask which machine you went with?


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## erikmannie (May 2, 2020)

JMhead said:


> Mind if I ask which machine you went with?



PM-1030V with factory DRO. I am 100% happy with it, but I wish that I could have afforded to buy a larger machine. I did not have the money.


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