# Cutting Thick Sheet Metal



## rwm (Apr 15, 2020)

So how do you cut thickish sheet metal? Anything 1/8 or thicker I cut easily with the bandsaw. Anything thin I cut with shears. What do you do about .050 stainless??? That easily destroys my bandsaw blade. I cannot cut it with shears. An angle grinder is painful. What is the best solution? (Do not say laser)
I was looking at a Pexto shear that is rated for 16g mild steel?  Enlighten me!
Robert


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## Janderso (Apr 15, 2020)

Plasma cutter with a guide. Unless you have a sheet metal shear.


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## rwm (Apr 15, 2020)

I have Plaz. Not sharp enough, smooth enough, edge for precise fabrication. I am talking about precision cuts.
Robert


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## savarin (Apr 15, 2020)

I use my 4" angle grinder with 1mm blade for stainless to cut everything, poor little beast really gets a bashing.
Good ear protectors and its easy to get straight even cuts, but I wouldnt call them exactly precision cuts.


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## Cadillac (Apr 15, 2020)

I use my bandsaw for everything to get me to a scribe line than mill for a precise edge. I do have and use a plasma cutter but usual only use for circles,arcs or when I have long lengths that are usually welded. Or the well saw for bar stock. My go to tool though is a angle grinder with a 6" cutoff wheel.


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## matthewsx (Apr 15, 2020)

How big is your shop?

Big shears, iron workers, etc. all do what you're after. If your space and/or budget is limited and you can't upgrade then maybe look into friction blades for your bandsaw if it runs fast enough. Otherwise it's a 4" cutoff wheel and a whole lot of flap wheel work to get up to your layout lines.

John


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## GL (Apr 15, 2020)

It seems most of the bases have been covered. Angle grinder, Band saw, shear, plasma (high def CNC is better), laser.  Cold chisel and hammer not mentioned yet, or skill saw with blade reversed or gas torch.  None I would consider to be “precision” , more fabrication, level cutting with post processing required.  This seems to beg the question, how precise are you wanting to get, and why do you need it for sheet metal?  Most CNC tools, laser, plasma, turret punch are at best +/-0.005 with plasma +/-0.010 on thin stuff - kerf will be more than that on thicker material.  That covers most of the processes I’m familiar with, most are well beyond “hobby” level for most.  Maybe someone else knows some more and can get you where you are trying to get to.


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## matthewsx (Apr 15, 2020)

If you have the budget.









						OMAX MicroMAX Abrasive Waterjet | OMAX Waterjet
					

The OMAX MicroMAX waterjet water jet cutter is your solution for ultra-precision abrasive waterjet machining. The most precise waterjet in the world.




					www.omax.com
				




or maybe there's a shop in town that has one and will do your job on the side.

John


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## benmychree (Apr 15, 2020)

Yes, water jet ----


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## RYAN S (Apr 15, 2020)

What about the Evolution circular saw for metal. The one I have works well, I haven’t tried it on anything that thin though. Might be worth a look.
Ryan


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## FOMOGO (Apr 15, 2020)

I just use carbide circular saw blades in my worm drive. This video shows it pretty well. 



  and here is one source for blades https://benchmarkabrasives.com/    Mike


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## M.T. Pockets (Apr 16, 2020)

What size stock you cutting and is it strait lines? For smaller stuff that gauge Ill flip it vertical up against a piece of wood and cut it on the bandsaw.


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## DAT510 (Apr 16, 2020)

I’ve had good results on thicker sheet metal with a nibbler and a guide for straight cuts.


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## Aukai (Apr 16, 2020)

I have the Morse Metal Devil









						Morse Metal Devil NXT® 7
					

M.K. Morse 7 Metal Devil NXT® Circular Saw 1009601560 Watts | 120V | 60Hz | 13Amp | 3800 RPM |20mm Arbor




					www.aaabrasives.com
				




I have these also









						KD-440 | Kett Tool Company |  Shears
					

KD-440. Kett Tool Company has been producing high quality  Shears for professionals since 1940. Discover what you can cut with Kett!




					www.kett-tool.com


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## AGCB97 (Apr 16, 2020)

I've used my Milwaukee 6852-20  (18 GA steel)
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Metalworking/Shears-and-Nibblers/6852-20
on 18 gauge stainless quite a bit but it has to be at just the right tool angle to the material and it's not that easy. It does make a nice clean cut but only slight curves. I used it lots when I used to do construction, roof metal and aluminum flashing. For cutting the SS recently, I purchased a new cutting head which worked much better that the old (15+ years) dull one.
Looks like the 2636-20
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Metalworking/Shears-and-Nibblers/2636-20
would do the job better.


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## AGCB97 (Apr 16, 2020)

That Kett that AUKAI mentioned looks OK too but from what I can see, it does not have a rotatable head. I always keep the head on my Milwaukee rotated so the handle is upside down and the cord does not get in the way.
Aaron


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## Aukai (Apr 16, 2020)

There are nibblers too that go around corners, but the shards/swarf are the devil with two prong horns.


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## brino (Apr 16, 2020)

In my shop I _try_ to have multiple ways to do most cuts, and then test and find the way that work best for the particular job at hand.

Much depends on the size and shape, as well as material.......

For this question, I would consider these and find what works best:
1) metal bandsaw (I'd buy a high-quality blade and ration its use for stainless only)
2) hand shear (like this)



3) metal chop saw (like this)




-brino


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## Cadillac (Apr 16, 2020)

I have two nibblers can cut 16g but that’s about the max and it’s pushing it. Bought second hand. You could buy a plasma cutter for the price of a nibbler new rated at thicker gauges.


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## BGHansen (Apr 16, 2020)

+1 on Bruno's bench shear for stock 1/8" and thinner. Got mine from Woodward Fab for $100.

Bruce


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## RJSakowski (Apr 16, 2020)

There is a shear called a Beverly shear that is essentially a bench mounted version of a pair of tin snips.  It will cut heavier heet metal with ease and can cut curves as well as straight.  As with all shears, there will be a slight deformity at the edge but if the shear is well adjusted, the deformity isn't too bad.




__





						Beverly Shear
					

Beverly Shear Mfg. was established in 1931 in Illinois. They currently occupy the oldest building in Chicago, IL.  Beverly throatless shears are ideal all-purpose metal cutting tools because they allow any desired cut in heavy gauges, yet handle lighter metals without distortion.  Uniquie...




					www.elitemetaltools.com


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## FOMOGO (Apr 16, 2020)

Used for cutting metal roofing and sheet aluminum up to 1/8" in straight lines or mild curves. Did it for years using standard plywood blades run backwards before carbide was in common use back in the day. I believe the new metal specific saws run at a lower rpm. Like most things, there is a learning curve associated with getting good results. Mike


M.T. Pockets said:


> What size stock you cutting and is it strait lines? For smaller stuff that gauge Ill flip it vertical up against a piece of wood and cut it on the bandsaw.


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## rwm (Apr 16, 2020)

I have a metal cutting bandsaw that works great on aluminum of all thicknesses and thicker steel. I also have a table saw set to cut aluminum.  When I cut stainless between 20 and 14 gauge I invariably rip teeth off the blade and ruin it. I am using a Lenox Dimaster II at 14 tpi. I have tried multiple speeds.
I would like to be able to make square cuts in material up to 12". I am thinking about a stomp shear although many are rated for only 16 gauge mild steel. That bench shear that Brino showed my be good although a little short. I would be afraid to go after sheet metal like this with a circular saw, no? I like the Kett shears also.
Thanks Guys!


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## Aukai (Apr 16, 2020)

I'm not sure what gauge they used for my garage beam, but I ripped the entire length with the metal circular saw. For the short runs you need to use the guide because you cannot see the blade, and the line.


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## Cadillac (Apr 16, 2020)

I also have a 36" stomp shear rated to 16g. It works really good for thin gauges 18 and up.16g full width you need a 400lb gorilla to jump on it. 12" wouldn't be a problem. Now if it has air cylinders hooked to the step it might be more powerful.


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## hman (Apr 17, 2020)

+1 on the plate shear (brino) for straight cuts.  Got one and like using it.  +1 on the Beverly shear (RJ) for curved cuts.  Plan to get one soon.








						Manual Shear at Grizzly.com
					

<h1>Grizzly T26867 Manual Shear</h1> <p>The T26867 Manual Shear is capable of cutting smooth curves into sheet metal up to 2mm thick.</p> <p>With a "throatless" frame design, this shear allows for unlimited material width.</p> <p>The ratcheting handle and two circular blades provide excellent...




					www.grizzly.com
				











						4 in. Mountable Throatless Shear
					

Amazing deals on this Throatless Shear  at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




					www.harborfreight.com
				







__





						Throatless Sheet Metal Hand Shear
					

Throatless Sheet Metal Hand Shear, Baileigh Throatless Sheet Metal Hand Shear, Woodward Fab Throatless Sheet Metal Hand Shear, Sheet Metal Hand Shear



					www.southern-tool.com


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## Aukai (Apr 17, 2020)

I did a job with an old school grandpa type he drilled a hole through the front of a machete, mounted it on a wood frame with an angle bracket, and cut roofing iron to size with it. I remember being amazed at how little effort it took.


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## Grandpop (Apr 17, 2020)

I usually use my jig saw, sometimes with a piece of hard board as a guide. Quick pass on the belt sander and looks good enough.


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## rwm (Apr 17, 2020)

Great information guys! I think I will order the plate shear. I will make an infeed table for it to facilitate clamping. I will come back and post some pics and results!
Robert


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## hman (Apr 17, 2020)

Here's my infeed clamp/stock support for a "pick it up and use it on a table" shear:



... and here's an even nicer one for a bench mounted shear, created by a friend in Phoenix:


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## Ulma Doctor (Apr 18, 2020)

i bought some nibblers and powered shears- they both have their advantages


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## Aukai (Apr 18, 2020)

The swarf from the nibblers is bad news if found by your feet....


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## savarin (Apr 18, 2020)

Aukai said:


> The swarf from the nibblers is bad news if found by your feet....


As I found out the hard way, and they stick in your clothes and attack at inconvenient moments.
Detestable little critters


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## Old Mud (Apr 19, 2020)

Any good 7 1/4" circular saw of 12 or more amps and the right blade will work.


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## Dave Smith (Apr 19, 2020)

I have a vintage Hammond Ben Franklin BF-10 cutting saw ---Dave


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## rwm (Apr 22, 2020)

Old Mud said:


> Any good 7 1/4" circular saw of 12 or more amps and the right blade will work.


Really? I would think the thinner stainless (like 20 gauge) would get caught by a tooth and do who know's what!? Can a circular saw safely cut this?
Robert


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## rwm (Apr 22, 2020)

delete this. Site error


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## stupoty (Apr 22, 2020)

brino said:


> In my shop I _try_ to have multiple ways to do most cuts, and then test and find the way that work best for the particular job at hand.
> 
> Much depends on the size and shape, as well as material.......
> 
> ...


I have a 12" bench shear , it's amazing for sheet upto maybe 2mm thick , can do 3mm (1/8th) but doesn't like it much.

Everyone should have a bench shear


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## Old Mud (Apr 22, 2020)

rwm said:


> Really? I would think the thinner stainless (like 20 gauge) would get caught by a tooth and do who know's what!? Can a circular saw safely cut this?
> Robert



  Robert i thought you asked for "Thickish" 1/8" and more ? No i would not cut anything thinner than 1/8" with a circular saw.  Also forgot to mention, Depth of cut is critical with a circular saw.


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## jwmelvin (Apr 22, 2020)

Old Mud said:


> Also forgot to mention, Depth of cut is critical with a circular saw.



What’s the proper depth of cut? Just barely breaking through the thickness?


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## kb58 (Apr 22, 2020)

Yeah the nibbler, electric or air powered, is the spawn of satin when it comes to cutting stainless sheet. It creates thousands of razor sharp tiny crescents that shoot everywhere. The powered shear is much better in that regard, but I've had mixed results with the Harbor Freight versions, go figure.


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## Old Mud (Apr 22, 2020)

jwmelvin said:


> What’s the proper depth of cut? Just barely breaking through the thickness?


 Yes just breaking the surface.


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## ARC-170 (May 1, 2020)

I cut some cold-rolled 16 Ga steel with a metal cutting blade on a 7-1/4" circular saw. I had a large 24" x 96" pc that needed a 6" x 8" notch cut out of it. I set the blade for VERY shallow and had to make about 5 passes before I cut thru the piece. It got hot and discolored, but it cut a neat line. I wore gloves, safety glasses, ear protection, a mask and long sleeves. Sparks went everywhere. 

I only needed this once, but if I was doing this on a regular basis I think I'd get a metal-cutting saw and blade.


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## MrWhoopee (May 1, 2020)

I didn't see any mention of friction sawing. Put an old blade on the bandsaw BACKWARDS. Run it as fast as the saw will go, cut in vertical mode. I've never tried it on a 4x6, works a charm on a Do-All.


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## rwm (May 2, 2020)

When you say "backwards". Do you mean with the teeth pointing up, or with the back of the blade against the material?
Robert


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## BGHansen (May 2, 2020)

rwm said:


> When you say "backwards". Do you mean with the teeth pointing up, or with the back of the blade against the material?
> Robert


The hardware store recommended using a 200 tooth circular saw blade to cut aluminum siding when I was doing a remodel years ago. Basically like running a standard end mill CCW.

Bruce


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## MrWhoopee (May 2, 2020)

rwm said:


> When you say "backwards". Do you mean with the teeth pointing up, or with the back of the blade against the material?
> Robert



Teeth pointing "up".  I've cut a file this way.

Thinking about it for a moment, a wood cutting bandsaw might be useful for this.


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