# Removing Spindle Gear on Clausing 4800



## mikeyjones (Mar 31, 2021)

Hey guys - 

I need the braintrust here to help me out.  I've been fighting terrible wobble on my chucks so I'm disassembling the spindle to likely replace the bearings and see if my spindle itself is still true.  (This lathe was slightly manhandled while moving so want to check for issues).  

I was able to remove the gear box and quadrant.  

I'm stuck on the spindle gear.  Manual says to hit a block of wood w/ a hammer to move it a bit and then get a gear puller on it.  Well I've done nothing but create splinters by trying that.  

Any input or suggestions would be much appreciated.


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## markba633csi (Mar 31, 2021)

Do you suspect a bent spindle? Have you taken any measurements?  "Terrible wobble" could be caused by several things. Is this a long-standing problem or something that developed suddenly? The more info you can provide the better.
Is it the leftmost spindle gear you are trying to remove? Usually there is a nut or threaded ring to remove first.  Pix would help.
-Mark


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## mikeyjones (Mar 31, 2021)

markba633csi said:


> Do you suspect a bent spindle? Have you taken any measurements?  "Terrible wobble" could be caused by several things. Is this a long-standing problem or something that developed suddenly? The more info you can provide the better.
> Is it the leftmost spindle gear you are trying to remove? Usually there is a nut or threaded ring to remove first.  Pix would help.
> -Mark



Thanks for the reply Mark.  I do suspect a bent spindle or bad bearings, so wanted to give the machine some TLC and replace 60+ yr old parts that have been caked in grease.  

It is the left most gear that sits outside the cast iron housing.  I don't see a nut or threaded ring on this machine and the instructions say to hit with with a block of wood - however unclear that might be.  Uploading a picture - it's the topmost gear in this picture. 

There's not enough room between the gear and the preload collar of the left bearing to get a gear puller on it.


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## markba633csi (Mar 31, 2021)

I can't tell from the picture- are there threads on the spindle just to the left of the gear? As if there was a nut there at one time? I don't see how the gear would stay put if there was no method of retaining it. Most lathes have some kind of threaded collar.  If the gear is a tight press fit it will be a bear to get off without damage.  I have to admit I'm not real familiar with this series.  I see a large nut on the inboard side of the gear which must be for setting the bearing preload. Possibly by loosening that it would push against the gear and help remove it.
In any case, if it's been on there for a long time you may have to apply some heat to help persuade it, along with some penetrating solvent
Also I would clean the area well so you can get a good look at it.  There may be some kind of retaining tab that's buried under the grease


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## mikeyjones (Mar 31, 2021)

markba633csi said:


> I can't tell from the picture- are there threads on the spindle just to the left of the gear? As if there was a nut there at one time? I don't see how the gear would stay put if there was no method of retaining it. Most lathes have some kind of threaded collar.
> In any case, if it's been on there for a long time you may have to apply some heat to help persuade it, along with some penetrating solvent


No threads, and there's a woodruff key holding the gear in position.  But it's a press fit, nothing beyond what you see there.  

Even the manual just mentions hitting it with a block of wood - I've tried and only have succeeded in creating splinters.


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## markba633csi (Mar 31, 2021)

I would review the entire spindle removal procedure.  Unless I'm mistaken, I think the factory means to apply the wood block to the spindle not the gear.
I believe the spindle would come out towards the tailstock and so the bearing preload nut on the inboard side of the gear would need to be loosened and then by tapping the left hand end of the spindle with a wood block the gear would be pushed off as the spindle comes out.  Of course the bull gear and pulley would need to be undone and slid off at the same time, any setscrews loosened, etc.
Probably it would be preferable to make up a puller using a length of threaded rod and some nuts and washers, rather than hammering.  This is the best technique to remove Atlas or any spindle with roller bearings and is easier on the bearings if you intend to reuse them
I would check to see if those bearings are even still available before taking anything apart- I seem to remember some of the early Clausings bearings are NLA, although there may be subs


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## mikeyjones (Apr 1, 2021)

markba633csi said:


> I would review the entire spindle removal procedure.  Unless I'm mistaken, I think the factory means to apply the wood block to the spindle not the gear.
> I believe the spindle would come out towards the tailstock and so the bearing preload nut on the inboard side of the gear would need to be loosened and then by tapping the left hand end of the spindle with a wood block the gear would be pushed off as the spindle comes out.  Of course the bull gear and pulley would need to be undone and slid off at the same time, any setscrews loosened, etc.
> Probably it would be preferable to make up a puller using a length of threaded rod and some nuts and washers, rather than hammering.  This is the best technique to remove Atlas or any spindle with roller bearings and is easier on the bearings if you intend to reuse them
> I would check to see if those bearings are even still available before taking anything apart- I seem to remember some of the early Clausings bearings are NLA, although there may be subs


I’ll try that. I tried before and iirc the preload collar doesn’t have room to be fully loosened with the space available.

regarding bearing availability- I’ve found the cups in precision form. And I think I would be able to reuse some of the parts.


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## markba633csi (Apr 1, 2021)

You might need to buy a very thin large open end wrench for that bearing preload nut- they are available. Looks like about a 1-1/2"
-M


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## mikeyjones (Apr 1, 2021)

markba633csi said:


> You might need to buy a very thin large open end wrench for that bearing preload nut- they are available. Looks like about a 1-1/2"
> -M


I think what you're referring to in the picture is actually the dust cover for the bearings.  That opening slides right over the gear.  And it's 2 1/8" FYI.  

The bearing preload nut needs a spanner key to turn.


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## markba633csi (Apr 1, 2021)

Ah OK.  See I told you I was not an expert on those 
So the hex I'm seeing in this picture is just a dust cover? I'm not sure I follow.  What about that washer-like thingy between the hex and the gear?
Can the dust cover be removed first and then the gear?  If the cover can be removed to gain more space I would try that, but give a good cleaning first.


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## ab_al (Apr 4, 2021)

Big circular feature plus big hex are cast iron dust cover that can be unscrewed and slid over the gear. Actual preloading nut is inside.  I do not remember exactly how did I pull out the gear but it wasn't easy. I tried to fab some wedges but given the width of metal I had on hands it did not work - but it would if one has like 3.5 in 1/8 in thick steel bar. I think that banging on the back end (with some wood or using plastic mallet) did work at the end.
I do have pics of disassembled spindle (mine is Clausing 100 mk3) but not on this computer right now.


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## Tim9 (Apr 6, 2021)

That spindle looks a lot like a South Bend. Probably pretty much the same design. I'd remove the nut....get a piece of pipe for a sleeve....And use some all thread to press it off.  Mark the position of the bearing if its a roller bearing.


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## guero_gordo (Apr 6, 2021)

I'm reading it to say tap the gear with a block until there's clearance to get a puller on it. That angle isn't great for directing force axially. Perhaps a Jacobs wedge set or just some wood shims in opposition








						Atlas-Clausing-4800-Instructions Parts-02
					

User Manual:   Atlas-Clausing-4800-InstructionsParts-02 Clausing == Clausing Lathe And Mill == Clausing Lathes




					usermanual.wiki


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## john.k (Apr 12, 2021)

If you think the spindle is bent ,have you put a dial gauge on it in various places and rotated?.....If you think the bearings are loose,then a dial gauge on the chuck mount will show movement by using a bar through the spindle bore .....The large nut seems a simple removal for a truck hub bearing nut spanner............Ive made lots of truck hub nut spanners with no more than an oxy torch and a welder.


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## wa5cab (Apr 13, 2021)

@guero_gordo,​
You don't tap on the gear itself.  You drive the shaft through the gear.


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## guero_gordo (Apr 13, 2021)

wa5cab said:


> @guero_gordo,​
> You don't tap on the gear itself.  You drive the shaft through the gear.


You may be right about that, but I didn't read it wrong ;-)


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## wa5cab (Apr 14, 2021)

Yes, I realize that.  But going back and looking at the blowup of the photo of the left end of the spindle from the beginning of this thread, it would be impossible to literally do what the factory instructions say and achieve anything.  However, looking at the blowup also reveals that the large hex nut has to be turned several threads CCW (hopefully at least the threads are RH) before you can drive the spindle much through the gear.  And the large nut has to be completely removed  from the spindle before the spindle can be removed from the headstock.

It is not possible from the photo to tell how much of a gap there is between the nut and the gear.  But it might be possible to move the gear enough to allow the insertion of a pair of wedges similar to the Jacobs arbor removal ones but you will probably have to make them as I don't know of any made that are large enough.

So as I wrote earlier, assuming that you are not going to make the large wedges, add that before beating on the left end of the spindle with the hammer hitting a hardwood block, you must unscrew the large hex nut until it at least contacts the face  of the gear, and as you drift the spindle through the gear, continue to unscrew the hex nut.  And don't forget before you start, to loosen any set screws elsewhere in components so locked to the spindle (if there looks like there is one in the cone pulley, there isn't - that will be an oil hole plug).  And take care of the Woodruff key that keeps the bull gear from turning on the spindle.

Actually, were I doing it, I would use a piece of All-Thread to make a custom puller, as swinging a hammer is too tiresome  at my age.  I would also cheat and use the hollow piston cylinder from the hydraulic Green Lee knock-out punch set that I have had since before most of you were born.  But the All-Thread and nuts alone will work OK.


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## guero_gordo (Apr 30, 2021)

Probably long since fixed, but it occurs to me now that sum'n like this might work, homegrown or otherwise. "bearing splitter" new one on me


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## Tim9 (May 2, 2021)

Here….check out this link. All you need is some all-thread rod and some spacers. This is a South bend but the theory works for anything like a spindle which has a center hole.
around the 9:00 mark is where he’s getting to the actual point.


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## mikeyjones (May 2, 2021)

Tim9 said:


> Here….check out this link. All you need is some all-thread rod and some spacers. This is a South bend but the theory works for anything like a spindle which has a center hole.
> around the 9:00 mark is where he’s getting to the actual point.



This won't work for mine because the bearing preload nut doesn't fit over the gear.  So I can't get it fully loosened.


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## wa5cab (May 3, 2021)

Mikey,

With the headstock fully assembled (DL-230 Take-Up Nut tightened against the inner race of the DL-232-S Bearing), how much space is there between the DL-230 and the DL-239 Spindle Gear?


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