# My Favorite Tap Handle...



## Ray C (Jan 18, 2014)

All,

Here's a photo of my favorite tap handle.  I made this over 40 years ago at roughly the age of 12 or 13 and it's a regularly used tool in my shop.  The V-blocks are wearing out because the metal is not hardened at all. 




I've been meaning to re-make this tool for a long time and I felt like celebrating a little today because, yesterday was the official end of my old job and today, I officially got the approvals, permits and filings to start my own consulting company.  I'm thinking of making that tap handle the official logo.  -We'll see.

Anyhow, without further delay, we'll kick-off this fun little project and as always, I'll toss-in some tidbits of information along the way.

Here's a 3D model and two drawings with dimensions needed to make this.  If anyone can't see/read the dimensions, just contact me offline and I'll send you better drawings.  For some reason, the PDFs I make of drawings are very large and I don't want to eat-up all of Nelson's disk space...







Fist, let's talk about material selection...  The original is made of mild steel and believe it or not, the threads are wearing-out a bit -and as mentioned the v-blocks are worn to the point they won't hold a tap too well.  There's also been times when turning a bigger-size tap, I felt the arms on this thing were going to bend a little too much.  Given all this, we'll make it out of either 1045 or 4140 and, we'll heat treat it to Rockwell 45 C or so.  Remember now, untreated 1045 or 4140 is not much stronger at all than plain-Jane 1018 or 1020.  At Rockwell 45, it will have about twice the tensile and yield strength as unhardened metal would.

It turns out, the scrap pile has a small block of 1050, just the perfect size for the v-block and there's plenty of 4140 rod laying around too.  -We're set for metal...

I'm using a 1" dia, two-point carbide insert cutter to shave the block down to dimensions.  I'm going to leave things about 5 thou oversized and it will be ground to size after heat treating.  




In this picture I want to point-out what is the sign of a well-trammed mill.  That piece had just one single pass taken over the top.  The DoC was about 30 thou.  Notice that you can see two circular patterns.  This means that the leading edge of the inserts were cutting AND the trailing edge of the inserts were cutting as well.  If the mill were not trammed properly then, the cutting edges would not be perfectly flat with respect to the piece and you would only see one circular pattern in one direction.   Hope that made sense... Let me know if you need a better explanation.




The parts are so simple (as you can see in the drawing) I'm not going to describe how to drill the holes etc...  Suffice it to say that by now, you can drill the holes and tap for 5/16-18.




What I will describe is now to cut the square notch...  Here, a 45 degree square is set in the bed of the vise and the pieces are held and clamped at a 45[SUP]o[/SUP] angle.  Also notice the red layout ink has a line scribed at the half-way point on the block.




To make the notch perfectly centered, you cut it in two steps.  First, position the very edge of the cutter right on the scribed line until it just makes contact.  For the first cut, move the table into the cut by a known amount -in this case, just a little under 1/8" and make a pass (x direction) across the blocks.  Next, keep everything the same position but, lower the cutter (z direction) the same amount as you moved it in the first cut.  Make the cut.  When you check the position, you'll see it's perfectly centered.

If you want, you can repeat this process on the backside of the blocks but next time around, you can make a different sized notch.  For really small taps, you can use the small notches -or you can flip the blocks around and use the bigger notches for bigger sized taps.  -That's up to you, I'm not going to bother with that little detail but, I have seen folks do this...




OK, that's it for now...    We'll finish making the handles tomorrow and we'll do the heat treating on Sunday.


Ray

EDITED to fix a typo.


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## JOEZ (Jan 18, 2014)

I have my Grandpa's tap handle that is similar to your's.
I like that design it's now on my project list.
Thanks for posting it.


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## Chucketn (Jan 18, 2014)

Thanks for posting the tap handle, Ray. It's now on my to-do list!

Chuck


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## blacksmithden (Jan 18, 2014)

I've never seen that particular design before. Very nice...it's on my to do list now as well. Thanks Ray.


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## Ray C (Jan 18, 2014)

Well alright then... We are chillin' like a villain with a gold tooth fillin'...

Knocked-out three sets of these; one for me, another for me and one for my buddy Frank whose been eyeing mine for the past 15 years.

Here's a few action shots...

Since there's nothing critical about these, I don't bother to use the calipers or micrometers too much.  I set all the radii by touching off on the piece with the parting tool then, digging-in to the desired depth.  After that, I grab whatever lathe bit is handy and carve-away the tall spots.




To set the taper, I just marked off the distances from the drawing (where my fingers are pointing) then, put a cheap DI in the tool holder and adjusted the angle until it gave me a depth reading of 0.063" (taken from the drawing) over a distance of 2".  The taper is cut with compound in about 3 passes.  -Easy Shpeasy...





Knurling...  See, I'm actually using that knurl tool we made a while back.  It works fine!




-And here's a set of parts.  I'm going to use George's suggestion of packing the holes with steel wool.   OK, will check back in a while.  The parts are warming-up in the oven on their way to 1550F.




Ray


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## Ray C (Jan 18, 2014)

Here we go...  Just need to break the edges on the v-blocks.  I was shooting for Rockwell 47 C and the control piece came out to ...(drum roll please)...  RC 47.

I walked over to my buddy Frank and gave him one.  He just loves the old one I had so I thought this would be a nice gift.  He immediately asked "what do I owe you for it?".   Silly guy...  All my close friends get stuff for free but, it did have me wondering, how much is this this thing worth?  When you think about it, there really is no place you can buy hand-crafted tools anymore...  Anyhow, there's another thread floating around were someone wants inspiration to build and sell stuff...  Here you go, make a bunch of these and let me know how much you get for them...  LOL...







Hope you enjoyed the little project...  I'm sure you'll see this tap handle in action in upcoming projects...  See you then...


Ray


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## valleyboy101 (Jan 18, 2014)

Hi Ray,
Nice work.  Unlike yourself I have a tap handle that I've had since 77 and hate it.  I like the design of yours and as soon as I get my Cromwell lathe in shape I'll make one.  If I was buying one with the nice knurling and hardened jaws $50.00 wouldn't be a problem.
Michael


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## Ray C (Jan 18, 2014)

*!*

If you and the other folks decide to make one of your own, I can all but guarantee you'll love it.  It has a really nice balance and feel to it.  I'll never forget the first time my friend Frank needed to use it.  It was many, many years ago long before I started-up the garage shop and he had no idea I knew a little bit about machining.  Anyhow, he returned it a couple days after borrowing it and the first words out of his mouth were:  Where did you get that?  I want one!  As a Chief Engineer on transport ships, Frank appreciates good tools...

Anyhow, I got the design from my father -and I have no idea if he designed it or someone else did.  I made the original one by myself and I remember my father showing me how to calculate diameters for knurling.  I remember being in the 5th grade when I made it.  I brought it to school for science class and the teacher didn't believe I made it myself and made a big stink.  My dad went down there and set them straight...   These days, a parent would get thrown in jail for letting a 5th grader run a 15x54 Leblond out in the garage...  Fact is, I'd been doing that since I was about 9 -and my father's biggest concern was "Did you clean the machine and sweep up?".


Ray




valleyboy101 said:


> Hi Ray,
> Nice work.  Unlike yourself I have a tap handle that I've had since 77 and hate it.  I like the design of yours and as soon as I get my Cromwell lathe in shape I'll make one.  If I was buying one with the nice knurling and hardened jaws $50.00 wouldn't be a problem.
> Michael


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## burtonbr (Jan 18, 2014)

Wow!! Thanks for posting your project, I've not ever had a decent holder that I liked. That one looks like it will work better that any I've had, and looks like a good project for a beginner like me to tackle and learn. I need to find your thread on the knurling tool, as I don't have one yet, everything else looks manageable even for me.

really nice, thanks !


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## Ray C (Jan 18, 2014)

If anyone decides to make this and does not have the ability to heat treat it, just send me a PM and I'll take care of it for you.  All I ask is you pay postage and make a small donation to this site.

Also, please tell me what metal you make it out of and try to stick with either 1040-50 or 4140-50.  I really don't like messing around with pack carburizing mild steel like 1018-20.  -Way too messy and smokes-up the shop...


EDIT:  Here is the thread that has the plans for the clamp-type knurl tool.  I see that I forgot to post the 2D drawings so, I'll put those up tomorrow.  Remind me if I forget...

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...ool-Project-(clamp-type)?highlight=knurl+tool

Ray


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## hman (Jan 19, 2014)

I've had this one (store bought ... no idea exactly where or when, no brand markings on it) for a goodly number of years.  It's definitely been very useful.  The threads are 1/4-20, and the handle will handle taps up to 3/8".

PS - I put the the tape on the handles because the knurling is sharp enough to hurt.  Guess I oughta sand it down a bit one of these days ...

PPS - Stores more compactly if you unscrew one of the handles.  Or you can thread it into the "back" of the body to keep the whole thing together.


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## Skippyman (Jan 20, 2014)

Great post and great info.  thanks for posting this.  How did you clean the parts after the heat treating?  What is the packing with steel wool all about?

Thanks Again,
Skip


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## Ray C (Jan 20, 2014)

Parts are cleaned with a sand-blaster which gives it a nice matte/pearly finish if you use ground glass.

Plugging the holes will prevent cracking of the parts during the quench.   When you dunk a very hot part, all the thin areas will cool (therefore contract) at a much faster rate than the thicker cross-sections.   By stuffing the holes, the quenching solution cannot come into contact with the bore of the hole and thus, it cannot carry the heat away -and thus, the thin section cools at a rate more in-line with the thicker cross sections.  This way, uneven tensions do not build-up and cause cracking...

I can all but guarantee that if that part were just dunked as-is, the thinnest cross section would have cracked.

This is the first time I've ever tried packing with steel wool.  In times prior, I just plugged it with a bolt or shaft.  The steel wool worked just fine!  -And I owe George Wilson a "thank you" for that little trick.

Ray





Skippyman said:


> Great post and great info.  thanks for posting this.  How did you clean the parts after the heat treating?  What is the packing with steel wool all about?
> 
> Thanks Again,
> Skip


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## hman (Jan 30, 2014)

I was just browsing through eBay tonight, and found a similar tap handle.  The seller thinks it's homemade.  

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LONG-HANDLE...057?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2589039fc9

As of right now (1:26AM Mountain time, Jan 30) it's still at the zero-bid "basement" price of $0.99.  

Happy bidding!


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## Dranreb (Jan 30, 2014)

Nice work Ray, and I'm definitely going to attempt making one as nice because mine came with some junk and is pretty worn.

Just gotta get a good knurler and learn how to use it, any chance of a how to on that part of the job? The thought of that long knurl does scare me a bit! 

Bernard

OOPs, just seen your Knurler link, don't know how I missed it..


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## hdskip (Jan 30, 2014)

Ray,
  Nice job on this post. Great pics good description.
     Gary


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## Ray C (Jan 30, 2014)

Dranreb said:


> Nice work Ray, and I'm definitely going to attempt making one as nice because mine came with some junk and is pretty worn.
> 
> Just gotta get a good knurler and learn how to use it, any chance of a how to on that part of the job? The thought of that long knurl does scare me a bit!
> 
> Bernard



Sure, I can show the knurling.  There are some videos on YouTube but, everyone has their own technique and I haven't seen anyone do it the way I do so, what the heck, I'll show a better description.  Gimme a couple days... and send a reminder if I forget.


Ray


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## chuckorlando (Jan 30, 2014)

Nice work and plans. Thanks for taking the time


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## Dranreb (Jan 30, 2014)

Ray C said:


> Sure, I can show the knurling.  There are some videos on YouTube but, everyone has their own technique and I haven't seen anyone do it the way I do so, what the heck, I'll show a better description.  Gimme a couple days... and send a reminder if I forget.
> Ray



That would be great Ray, I've watched a couple but not too much the wiser really, it seems that a lot of practice is needed to get perfect at it...anic:

Bernard


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## Redmech (Feb 16, 2014)

Great project. Enjoyed the build along.


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## Terrywerm (Feb 16, 2014)

Years ago, tap handles all looked like this one, not the more modern style that we are all accustomed to. I personally do not like the modern type, as they always loosen up.  I used to have one like Ray's, made it in high school, but over the years it disappeared somehow. I put making a pair of these on my to-do list, one small and one large, but haven't gotten around to making them yet. 

Those of you that have never used this type of tap handle will quickly understand why it is Ray's favorite once you have the chance to use one. 

Thanks for posting, Ray!


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## hman (Mar 4, 2014)

I was in an Ace hardware store today, and saw a similar tap handle.  Takes taps from 0 to 1/2".  

It's the Irwin/Hanson 21596:
http://www.gradyshardware.com/Irwin-Industrial-Offset-Tap-Hdl-012/M/B001D1DTW6.htm - $5.72 + $3.18 shipping.  I forgot to note Ace's price.




Best wishes!


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## gjmontll (Mar 13, 2014)

Note that handle's size capacity is just as it says: "handles 0 - 1/2" is thread size and not the size of the tap's shank. This has fooled me as I've been looking around for a tap wrench that can handle bigger sizes. In my case, seeking one to handle a 5/8'" and some large reamers (up to 7/8"). I settled for getting a socket wrench tee handle and some 12-point sockets that fit my taps' and reamers'square shanks. 
Maybe I'll machine my own big version of the "Ace style" shown below.

     Greg



hman said:


> I was in an Ace hardware store today, and saw a similar tap handle.  Takes taps from 0 to 1/2".
> 
> It's the Irwin/Hanson 21596:
> http://www.gradyshardware.com/Irwin-Industrial-Offset-Tap-Hdl-012/M/B001D1DTW6.htm - $5.72 + $3.18 shipping.  I forgot to note Ace's price.
> ...


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## AmericanMachinist (Jan 17, 2021)

Thank you for sharing this!   I've been considering building a tap handle like this for a while and after building the "Cam-Jack Knurler", now feel capable of taking this one on.

I don't have ability to heat treat, so I'll likely construct out of 1018.  I hope that'll last me quite a while.  

I'll probably start with one that does 1/4" to 1/2" range taps, and then one for larger taps.   Two sizes of "v" per tool.

It may be overkill, but has anyone considered a rounded relief in the bottom of the V to reduce the stress riser?    Probably not necessary.


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## hman (Jan 17, 2021)

I wouldn't think it would be necessary, nor would heat treatment.  Shucks, if a 1/2" tap is THAT hard to turn, you've got other things to worry about


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## AmericanMachinist (Jan 17, 2021)

Thanks!  Thats what I'd have expected too.

I'd like to make a couple larger turn up to say 1" and 1-1/2" taps.


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