# My New G0704 Mill



## roadie33 (Jul 19, 2015)

Gunrunner you need to order a set of these for the Z axis hand crank. Bill did you just spit coffee on your monitor? :rofl:

View attachment 253356


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## brav65 (Jul 19, 2015)

Nice machine Mike.  I have the PM-25 and could not be happier.  Congrats!


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## roadie33 (Jul 22, 2015)

Thanks Brooks.
Got everything level and head trammed. 
Chucked up my homemade Flycutter with a carbide insert in a collett and tried it on a piece of 1" Aluminum. It looked like a mirror after one pass.
Made another AXA Tool Holder last night and it turned out great. A whole lot easier than using the milling attachment on the lathe.
The only thing I have a problem with is the Chips flying allover the place.
You know a way to limit that without a lot of fabricating?

Definitely gonna get a power feed for the table. Getting tired of cranking the  wheels on each end.


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## brav65 (Jul 22, 2015)

Try aluminum flashing, get a roll at HD, 10" wide and easy to bend.  Bend a 90* at the bottom and glue some magnets on.


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## Baithog (Jul 22, 2015)

I have the 759 and just love having the DRO's to go with the mill. I moved up from an X2. You're gonna have a lot of fun with the 704.

One of the first modifications I did was to get rid of the mostly useless chip shield the lawyers forced on us. My rotary table and larger parts wouldn't pass it. Chips have a way of migrating, especially if you are milling dry.  I use a mister and it makes the chips sticky enough to stay close to the mill. Keep a broom and shop vac handy so you don't end up with little bits of metal all over the house.

Another thing to keep an eye out for is the X-axis table locks hitting your vice. They snap off pretty easy.


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## roadie33 (Jul 22, 2015)

Thanks Brooks, I'll give that a try.

Larry, Already found that out. 
Snapped off the right one last night. Going to have to fab up some for all of them out of Aluminum as I'll probably need them also.
I'll have to check on a mister, if their not to costly.


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## brav65 (Jul 22, 2015)

roadie33 said:


> Thanks Brooks, I'll give that a try.
> 
> Larry, Already found that out.
> Snapped off the right one last night. Going to have to fab up some for all of them out of Aluminum as I'll probably need them also.
> I'll have to check on a mister, if their not to costly.



Take a look at the Noga mini mister.  I just watched a video review and it looks like a really nice little unit.  There are separate adjustments for air and fluid.


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## roadie33 (Jul 22, 2015)

Thanks Brooks
I took a look at the Noga. 
Looks to be a good system but a little pricey for what's there.

I remember someone else on here posted about this system and I'll give it a try. For the price I can afford several for the price of one Noga.
http://www.banggood.com/Mist-Coolan...t-For-CNC-Lathe-Milling-Machine-p-976517.html


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## dave2176 (Jul 22, 2015)

Nice mill. Don't forget pictures of your projects.
Dave


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## hman (Jul 25, 2015)

Baithog said:


> One of the first modifications I did was to get rid of the mostly useless chip shield the lawyers forced on us. My rotary table and larger parts wouldn't pass it.


My X2 mini-mill came with a rigid chip shield, and it had pretty much the same problem(s).  I replaced it with a piece of clear vinyl sheet (about .045 or .060" thick) attached to a random chunk of aluminum bar.  It's flexible enough to be deflected by fixturing or parts, but thick enough to stop flying chips.  Gets dirty from coolants/chips sometimes, but it's easy to wipe off.  Maybe you can adapt the idea for use with your mill.


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## roadie33 (Jul 25, 2015)

I was thinking of doing that on the sides and back since it already has the front one. Have to see if Home Depot or Lowes has some of that thick clear plastic.

Thanks John.


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## roadie33 (Jul 29, 2015)

First actual project piece.
Sure was a lot easier on the mill than it was on the lathe using the milling attachment.
Drilling all of the holes on the mill was easier than the Drill press too. Lined up perfectly. 
Need to get one of those tapping heads so I can do it all on the mill.
Now I have to make some more of the height stop wheels on the lathe.


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## GSWayne (Aug 3, 2015)

I have had good luck tapping with my G0704 without a tapping head.  I just run it at the lowest speed and keep my hand near the stop button.


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## kd4gij (Aug 3, 2015)

Congrats on the new mill I have had mine about 5 years I guess. Adding the power feed was my first mod. Counting turns got old real quick Then came the igaging scales. Never ends.


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## roadie33 (Aug 4, 2015)

I was looking at the Grizzly X- Axis power feed and will have to wait to build up funds to get it.
I was looking at  http://www.migration.g0704.com/G0704_dvdrom.html and thinking about buying his plans for the G0704.
I'll have to look at getting a DRO setup sometime also.


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## brav65 (Aug 4, 2015)

roadie33 said:


> I was looking at the Grizzly X- Axis power feed and will have to wait to build up funds to get it.
> I was looking at  http://www.migration.g0704.com/G0704_dvdrom.html and thinking about buying his plans for the G0704.
> I'll have to look at getting a DRO setup sometime also.



Hey Mike, I got the Hoss plans when I had a G0704 on order, but ended up with a PM-25. They are very detailed with lots of great information.  You don't need them for the power feed or DRO install.

I have a DRO Pros and am very happy with it.  At $700 they are not cheap, but make beginners much mor confident.  For a lower cost option check out 

http://www.yuriystoys.com

For a lower cost option. I have purchased all the parts for a DRO on my lathe, but not put it together yet.


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## roadie33 (Aug 4, 2015)

Thanks Brooks,
but DRO Pros is way out of my price range. That is ridiculous, they want just as much for a 3 axis setup than I paid for the whole mill.
I believe I'll stick with piecing together my own setup. 
Plenty of iGaging setups online that are 1/10th of the cost for what they want and everyone seems to be happy with them.
I was looking to get Hoss's plans for the belt drive conversion.


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## roadie33 (Nov 1, 2015)

Bought a used Grizzly T23010 Power feed for my G0704 on Ebay for $180 and installed it today.
Installation was a bit of a pain as I had to use a regular hex key to screw in the cap screws to the table.
1/4 turn at a time and not in the easiest place to access. Got both tightened down and then had to mark, drill and tap the holes for the limiting switch on the front. Got it all mounted and plugged it in. 
That thing will sure be a relief to cranking on the hand wheels.
It works great and can be unlocked to still use the hand wheel on the right end.
When I get around to adding a DRO, I'll have to mount the scale on the back of the table.


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## wrmiller (Nov 1, 2015)

Very nice. I didn't install the limit switch as I had already installed my dro scale on the front of the table so as not to take up any of the limited Y-axis travel. Lots of ways to do this though. My Griz power feed has worked flawlessly on my PM25. You will definitely enjoy not having to crank that X-axis handle on long cuts.


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## roadie33 (Mar 16, 2016)

Was using my mill tonight and stripped out the plastic gear on top that the motor gear turns.
Good thing I already had the belt drive pulleys done and just waiting for a good time to install.
I guess that means I'll have to do it now since I need the mill to finish a project.
Got most of it taken apart tonight and just need to get the intermediate gears out and then put the new motor plate and pulleys on.
Hopefully I'll get to it tomorrow night.


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## roadie33 (Mar 17, 2016)

Got the Belt Drive installed and tested. Runs very quiet compared to the geared drive.
I was even able to keep the speed sensor where it was mounted.
And it will go up to 3500 RPM. I'll need to make a new pulley for the motor as I had to install it upside down to get it to work. The sizes of the pulleys are backwards to what I wanted. The 2 smaller size are on the bottom now. At least it will run now so I can finish the other project tomorrow and make a new pulley this weekend. I'll need to make a guard to cover everything next.


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## roadie33 (Aug 15, 2016)

I changed the belt drive to one that uses the Hi / Lo gears instead of direct to the spindle.
The only problem is that in order to run the spindle the right direction, I have to set the Forward / Reverse switch to Reverse. That slows the spindle speed down to half what it will now run in Forward. 4200 compared to 2100 in reverse.
What I would like to know is if anyone knows if the stock motors can be changed to run the opposite direction?


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## roadie33 (Aug 18, 2016)

I didn't get any answers to my previous question so I'll ask again.
Does anyone know how to rewire the G0704 Forward/Reverse switch to get the stock motor to run the opposite way?

The reason is with the switch in reverse, the motor only runs at half the speed.


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## ogberi (Aug 18, 2016)

If its a plain Dc motor, you could probably get away with swapping the two motor leads at the output of the speed control. If its a three phase brushless, I'd have to defer to someone else more knowlegable.. One thing am not sure about with that motor is if the brushes are set at an angle or offset so it has a preferred direction. It will run in either direction, but running it in it's non-preferred direction may wear the brushes faster.


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## coherent (Aug 18, 2016)

Reversing the motor leads should. I investigated this in the past when looking into controlling the speed via mach3 and from what I remember from the KBIC 125 manual (which is essentially the same speed controller board) the (DC) motor is connected to the PCB terminals A+ and A- and if what you have is opposite of the desired rotation, simply reverse the wiring of A+ and A- with each other. This is in essence just swapping the motor leads anyway and since the manual said this reversed the motor it should work.

That being the case you should be able to wire a simple switch to reverse the connections and then depending on which way your (added and stock) switches were be able to obtain max speed in either direction.

I got sidetracked and moved on to another mods, and it's been a while since I looked but there may also be a pot on the board to adjust the max reverse.  If not then I imagine that either on the board or inline there is 5k or so resistor/resistance built in when the switch is in reverse on the G0704 circuity so it limits the speed in reverse (from what I remember it simply uses a 10k pot for the speed adjustment I think). Seems logical but this is from memory and I didn't check for or locate where the differences in signal resistance/voltage were originating and exactly how much the difference is, but it should be easy to investigate further. Remove the resistance and it should operate the same speeds in either direction.

I've had no need to mod/change my reverse speed max and haven't tried so will include a standard disclaimer... don't blame me if anything I mention screws anything up but hope this helps a little.


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## roadie33 (Aug 18, 2016)

coherent,
Thanks, I'll look at the board and see if I can find A+ and A- and trace them out to make sure. 
If they do, I'll swap them and see if that works.


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## JimDawson (Aug 18, 2016)

roadie33 said:


> Does anyone know how to rewire the G0704 Forward/Reverse switch to get the stock motor to run the opposite way?



What kind of motor is it?  Brushed DC, 3 phase induction, Brushless DC, single phase induction?


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## roadie33 (Aug 18, 2016)

Jim,
It is the original DC motor.
I did as coherent said and swapped the A+ with the A- and it works like it should now. Forward is forward and Reverse is reverse. I also found the Max pot and adjusted it to Max at 3200 RPM. It was doing 4500.
Not doing CNC yet, so I don't need that high of speed.
All is good now.
New Belt drive system is quieter than the other way and plus I have a Hi and Lo gear now.
Thanks Guys.


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## Charles Spencer (Aug 18, 2016)

roadie33 said:


> did as coherent said and swapped the A+ with the A- and it works like it should now.



Congratulations.  Don't you love it when a plan works out right?


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## roadie33 (Aug 18, 2016)

Sure does. Makes the end of the day seem so much better when things work out.


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## coherent (Aug 19, 2016)

Glad you got it fixed.


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## roadie33 (Aug 19, 2016)

Thanks for the help coherent.


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