# PM-1236T review



## Ischgl99 (Feb 7, 2022)

This was initially meant to be a 6 month review, but life got in the way and it is now a one year review.  I have had my PM1236T for a year now and thought I would write my experience with it so far for anyone considering this lathe. I already posted about getting it into my basement last year, so the following is after setting it up and using it.

My first impressions were a bit mixed, I bought a Taiwanese lathe expecting it to be better than a Chinese made one, but some of the fits and finish were more Chinese looking. The bed casting was not fully machined like I expected, you can see in this first picture the roughness on the insides of the ways. This doesn’t affect the operation of the lathe, but it does make you take a closer eye to the rest of the machine.







The second problem I discovered was the gear cover was machined off center. You can see in this picture that the hole in the guard is not centered well at all around the spindle. It appears this was not set up properly when having the holes bored since the holes for the mounting studs are not centered in the recesses. There is just enough room to fit a spider without rubbing on the cover, but I will probably open this hole up a bit to give some more room.





This lathe comes with a 3 jaw chuck. I don’t know where the chuck was made since there are not any markings on it, but not impressed with it. The tapered bore for the D1-4 spindle is on the loose side, when loosening the camlocks, the chuck will fall off the spindle if you don’t hold it. My other chucks need a tap with a rubber mallet to break free.  I might take a skim cut one of these days to get it to fit better, but since I don’t use it very much, I might just leave it for now.  I tested the runout of the jaws using an endmill (the only ground item I had that I could chuck) and also with a cylindrical roller bearing inner ring about 80mm bore. The runout was 0.007” with one set of jaws
and 0.005” with the other set. It was repeatable when rotating the end mill and ring, so the runout is in the jaws and not the items being used. I expected better than that from Taiwan, Shars lists their Chinese chucks should have runout less than 0.003”, so I don’t think it unreasonable to have at least that. The serial number on the two sets of jaws was different, the jaws on my Bison chuck match the
serial number of the cuck body, so I called PM to inquire about them not matching. According to them, the serial number are for the jaws and are not meant to match a particular chuck.  That might explain the runout.

Most of what I machine is metric, so I was glad to have a quick change gearbox that cuts so many metric threads with only a few changes in gears.  But, I was very surprised one of the most common thread pitches was not included in the chart.  M12 course thread is 1.75 and it is not in the thread tables at all, and 0.8 used for M5 was not there either, but I usually use dies for threads that size.  I made a table with different gear combinations and found that using 32x40 gear combination gives me both of those threads.

Using the machine is a huge step up from the 9x20 Jet I started out on.   Runout on the spindle barely moves my test indicator and the quality of the cut is excellent considering the size of the lathe.  I have been using mostly carbide tooling and the lathe handles that very well.  I use CCGT and DCGT for the most part and like it a lot.

I don’t have an hour meter on the lathe, so not sure exactly how much it got used before the first oil change, I think it was about 20ish hours, but there was more metal filings in there than I expected.  You can see wells on either side of the lubrication holes for the spindle bearings that catches debris before it gets into the bearings.  There was a good layer in each well, so this highlights the importance of using an oil that does not suspend the metal articles in the oil, but rather will let them settle out.  I opened up the cover again today after about another 30 ish hours of use and there was again a significant amount of metal particles in the collector wells.  I think I might put my vibration analyzer on it and see if I find any gear faults that could be causing wear of the teeth that is not evident with a visual inspection.  









If you want to use collets with a lever closer, you might not be able to get your tool close to the collet.  The switches for forward and reverse are located next to the quick change gearbox and doesn’t allow the carriage to get closer than 2 inches from the spindle nose.  If you use an adapter for the collet in the spindle bore, you would need to extend your part at least 2 inches to make a cut.  A collet chuck will be more suitable for this lathe, or an extended nose collet adapter with the lever collet closer.






This is the three phase version and I installed a VFD.  I did not install a speed pot since I wanted to try some different ideas first.  I set it up on the high speed pulley position and added a switch that reduces the motor speed in half.  This gives me all the nameplate speeds at the flip of a switch.  I haven’t found the need to adjust the speeds via a pot yet, so still haven’t installed it.  I also added a fast stop for threading since I do metric and can’t disengage the threading lever.  Since threading is fairly low speed, a 0.5sec deceleration time works fine even with the high inertia of the four jaw chuck.  I have been thinking about adding Mark’s proximity stop idea, I already had a sensor that would work, but I am going to try threading away from the chuck instead and see how I like that.  I will need to creep up on a shoulder for starting the thread, but might be easier in the ling run.  I never installed a jog switch, I like using the forward/reverse lever for that, and since my acceleration time is 5 seconds, it works really well as a jog.  5 seconds is a bit long for the acceleration, so I might get around to changing that to 3 seconds one of these days.  

If you read my post about getting this lathe into my basement, then you saw the wooden stand I built.  I have to admit I am surprised it has worked as well as I hoped.  I expected to need to add additional weight to the stand, but so far have not needed to.  I haven’t turned anything off balance yet, so that might show it’s limitations, but there have been zero modifications to it. 

Overall I am very happy with this lathe and wouldn’t hesitate to recommend this to someone looking for this size lathe.  I lucked out and bought before the big price increases, I’m not sure I would buy it today at current prices and lead times since there is usually something used available in my area.  Even with having to replace spindle bearings, a used one would likely be cheaper, but like with Christmas chocolates, you never know what you are getting until you take a bite.  My only regret with this lathe is not getting it sooner!


----------



## Watchwatch (Feb 7, 2022)

I have the exact same lathe and the exact same “issues”

Really, they are features. The lathe is built to a price point. Cosmetics are rough. Precision is awesome. Far trade off IMHO.

The gear cover spindle hole does bother me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## davidpbest (Feb 7, 2022)

A good review.  Thanks for posting.  I have the 1340GT which is the same machine just scaled up a bit.  Most people think I was nuts to strip down a brand new lathe to bare metal and repaint the machine, upgrading the fasteners and correcting a lot of the small details like the ones you mention.  But the machine itself has performed very well.  Adding a solid tool post greatly enhanced the rigidity.  I ended up making my own ER40 collet chuck to get more stick-out from the spindle nose and be able to get the tooling in close even with the microstop attached to the bed.  Your chuck sounds like a dud to me.  I'm guessing the gearing on your machine is the same as the 1340, in which case the attached threading chart might help.  If it is the same, you will need a 35 tooth gear to cut M4 and M12 accurately.  PM can get that gear from their supplier in Taiwan if needed.


----------



## Ischgl99 (Feb 7, 2022)

Watchwatch said:


> I have the exact same lathe and the exact same “issues”
> 
> Really, they are features. The lathe is built to a price point. Cosmetics are rough. Precision is awesome. Far trade off IMHO.
> 
> ...


Yes, character traits . They don’t affect the operation at all, I would not have been surprised by that with a Chinese made lathe, but expected better out of Taiwan.  

I am perfectly happy with the performance of the lathe, I wish I did this upgrade years ago.


----------



## Ischgl99 (Feb 7, 2022)

davidpbest said:


> A good review.  Thanks for posting.  I have the 1340GT which is the same machine just scaled up a bit.  Most people think I was nuts to strip down a brand new lathe to bare metal and repaint the machine, upgrading the fasteners and correcting a lot of the small details like the ones you mention.  But the machine itself has performed very well.  Adding a solid tool post greatly enhanced the rigidity.  I ended up making my own ER40 collet chuck to get more stick-out from the spindle nose and be able to get the tooling in close even with the microstop attached to the bed.  Your chuck sounds like a dud to me.  I'm guessing the gearing on your machine is the same as the 1340, in which case the attached threading chart might help.  If it is the same, you will need a 35 tooth gear to cut M4 and M12 accurately.  PM can get that gear from their supplier in Taiwan if needed.


I was close to buying the 1340GT, but thought this one was good enough for what I needed, and it saved some money.  I’m wondering if the metal particles I am seeing in the gear case are because the gears are not hardened like on your lathe, or there is a different issue.  I made a spreadsheet and found the 32 tooth gear works for the missing thread pitches.  I don’t think I checked M4, I’ll have to look into that, I usually use dies that small.  I bought the PM ER-40 chuck and it works really well, it has set through and enough projection that the direction switch location does not interfere.  I think I read everything you wrote before buying this and was hoping I didn’t get to the point where I repainted it like you did . 

I have plans to build a solid toolpost, your writeup about that is very convincing.  I don’t use the compound that often, and most of what I do use it for can be replaced with a different toolholder, so I think once I get through a busy period with work, that it will be time to get that done.

Regarding the chuck, I felt it was a dud too, but I called PM to ask about what tolerances it should meet and the guy I talked to deflected and said a 3 jaw is not meant for tight tolerances.  I was an engineer in a previous life and products are made to a tolerance, they either meet it or they don’t.  I paid for a Taiwanese lathe and I expect Taiwanese tolerances, not Chinese.  I didn’t push it, I have more important things to do, and I prefer using a 4 jaw anyways, but a part of me feels ripped off, part of the reason I bought this over the 1340GT was the included chuck.  Another thing that rubs me the wrong way is several of their products are not marked with the country of manufacture as required by law.  If a machine is advertised as made in Taiwan, I want to make sure everything I purchased was manufactured there.  My wife is from China and we visit often, but for political reasons, I am not buying from them whenever possible, so the country of manufacture is important to me.


----------



## Magnett (Feb 8, 2022)

Thank you Ischgl for the write up.  I am debating whether I should buy the 1236 with upgraded the chucks, add an ER40 collet closer or just by the 1236T.  I am just not sure how much more "practical quality" I would be getting with an 1236T for extra cost.


----------



## mksj (Feb 8, 2022)

Good review and points of discussion.

Everything is to a price point, my 1340GT and also my ERL-1340 have unfinished areas similar to what you are showing. It also seems like the belt cover spindle hole is off on every single 1236T/1340GT. If you add a spider, it usually requires boring the belt cover hole. Another person mentioned he just used a file on his 1340GT belt cover. I do not recall an issue with casting/metal filings on my 1340GT when I did the oil changes, it is recommended to do one after the first 20-30 hours. I have added neodymium magnets to my drain plugs which help to catch most of ferrous particles, there may be some QC/gear braek in difference between the 1236T and the 1340GT. Having seen what comes out of the oil on some of the Chinese machines, it has been much worse.

The chucks typically provided with this cost level of machines, are are often from mainland China unless you upgrade, I feel there are better options and worth spending a bit more. The chucks provided on the SunMaster lathes like the ERL, RML, TL (depends on the supplier)  are Taiwanese, spec is usually a TIR of 0.002" or better. When I purchased my 1340GT PEP in 2014 it came with a Chinese chucks, the TIR on the 3J was similar to yours. One became a door stop and the other went on my rotary table.  There is both TIR and skew issues with the grinding of the jaws, as well as repeatability and the variance holding different size stock. If you do turning where you are not going to cutoff the part after turning, I would recommend investing in a decent Set-Tru type of chuck. The PM 8" Taiwanese 4J independent chuck that I subsequently received, was a significant improvement over the mainland Chinese 4J  that came with my 1340GT. Add a decent collet chuck, and you will have a lot of material holding options.

Belt cover before and after boring for my spider.





ERL-1340 bed machining marks on the inside of the ways.





Drain plugs with added Neodymium magnets, I drilled a hole and then set the magnet in with metal epoxy. I did this for all 3 drain plugs,


----------



## Just for fun (Feb 8, 2022)

Nice report on the 1236T,  Thank you.


----------



## Ischgl99 (Feb 8, 2022)

Magnett said:


> Thank you Ischgl for the write up.  I am debating whether I should buy the 1236 with upgraded the chucks, add an ER40 collet closer or just by the 1236T.  I am just not sure how much more "practical quality" I would be getting with an 1236T for extra cost.


I haven’t used the Chinese version of this lathe, but I usually regret buying Chinese if there is an alternative.  The quality of the products just isn’t there and you usually need to spend time doing what the factory should have done.  I did a review of the PM 5c collet chuck last week and the issues with that are typical of what you get out of China.  

The cosmetic issues I brought up have no bearing on the use of the lathe, it’s just not what I usually see from Taiwanese products.  The quality of everything that matters, excluding the three jaw chuck, is excellent and I would recommend spending the extra money on the 1236T if you could.


----------



## Ischgl99 (Feb 8, 2022)

mksj said:


> Good review and points of discussion.
> 
> Everything is to a price point, my 1340GT and also my ERL-1340 have unfinished areas similar to what you are showing. It also seems like the belt cover spindle hole is off on every single 1236T/1340GT. If you add a spider, it usually requires boring the belt cover hole. Another person mentioned he just used a file on his 1340GT belt cover. I do not recall an issue with casting/metal filings on my 1340GT when I did the oil changes, it is recommended to do one after the first 20-30 hours. I have added neodymium magnets to my drain plugs which help to catch most of ferrous particles, there may be some QC/gear braek in difference between the 1236T and the 1340GT. Having seen what comes out of the oil on some of the Chinese machines, it has been much worse.
> 
> ...


Thank you for that additional information, I was not aware that the spindle hole in the gear cover and the unmachined portion of the bed ways is normal.  Makes you wonder why they haven’t at least fixed the offset hole problem if all the lathes have it.  I did add a spider, but mine just clears the hole and I didn’t need to bore the hole any larger, but if I make a spider or add a lever collet closer that is any bigger, it will need to be bored larger.

After seeing more metal particles in the gearbox, I want to change the oil and add magnets like you suggested.  I should have done that with the first oil change, but didn’t have any suitable magnets on hand.  I might also add a drain cock so the oil doesn’t spill all over when draining the oil, but I don’t like adding additional failure points, even if the risk is low. 

I neglected to write that I did buy the four jaw chuck when I purchased this lathe.  The lathe came with the chuck I wrote about, but the 4J is additional, I didn’t see an option to upgrade the 3J chuck when I purchased.  The 4J is from Taiwan and excellent quality.  It was almost too tight when I got it and a little difficult dialing something in, but after a couple weeks of use it was a joy to use and I can now dial parts in quick enough that it’s not worth switching to the 3J if it’s not on the lathe.  Part of the reason I bought this lathe over the 1340GT was the included chuck, that lathe does not come with chucks now.  Had I known it was Chinese, I might have spent the extra for the 1340GT since I have a Bison 5” 3J from my previous lathe and only would have needed to buy a D1-4 backplate.  I planned on using the PM 6” 3J on my rotary table and use the Bison on the lathe instead, but I just bought a NOS Vertex dividing head that needed a chuck and my 5” Bison was perfect for that, even had the screw on backplate already.  It’s a BS-0 size, so I don’t think the 6” chuck will work on that, but I haven’t tried that yet to verify.

Over the past year I bought the PM ER-40 collet chuck and the 5c chuck from PM.  For smaller stock, I love the ER-40 chuck, so accurate and fast after dialing it in.  That is my first choice for any first ops up to its collet size limits.  I use the 5c for second ops mostly, but if it’s on the lathe and the stock fits, I use that.  At this point, the 3J is more of a door stop, but it will be handy for hex stock until I get hex collets for the 5c.


----------



## xr650rRider (Feb 8, 2022)

One thing worth experimenting with on your 3 jaw (any chuck other than 4 jaw) is try it in all the D1-4 positions.  Test runout and then rotate 120 degrees to next position on pins and test again.  Every chuck I've tried, there is 1 sweet spot.  My 3 jaw that came with PM-1340GT is right at .0015" runout for 1 position.  Mark the spindle and mark the chuck and always install in same spot.


----------



## Ischgl99 (Feb 8, 2022)

xr650rRider said:


> One thing worth experimenting with on your 3 jaw (any chuck other than 4 jaw) is try it in all the D1-4 positions.  Test runout and then rotate 120 degrees to next position on pins and test again.  Every chuck I've tried, there is 1 sweet spot.  My 3 jaw that came with PM-1340GT is right at .0015" runout for 1 position.  Mark the spindle and mark the chuck and always install in same spot.


I tried that, there was no significant difference in runout.  The position of the high point is different as well between the two sets of jaws, so I even if I move the chuck body on the backplate to try and reduce the runout, it would most likely make it worse.


----------



## Ischgl99 (Feb 8, 2022)

While cleaning out the metal particles in the gearbox settling wells for the bearings, I decided to take a closer look at the gears to see if I could find something that could be causing the issue.  One of the gears on the input shaft is showing wear the others do not.  The gear on the right is the one, you can see a wear pattern only 2/3 across the tooth.  This is the gear cluster for the 1-2-3 lever. 






There is a lot of play in the lever in each position, enough that the gears might not be fully in mesh, see video.





Your browser is not able to display this video.





I knew it was a bit loose since I got the lathe, but not really knowing how it should operate, didn’t know if that was normal or not and didn’t pay too much attention to it other than making sure it was in the right spot.  Seeing how much the gears move with the cover off, that looks much more than should be normal, but someone can correct me if I am wrong about that.  I took the handle off to check and see what might be causing it to not lock into the proper position and it looks like everything is there, but there were two steel balls under the spring and not one as is shown in the manual.  I did tighten the set screw quite a bit to add more force onto the spring before removing the handle, but that did not help.

The steel balls ride in a series of dimples for each of the three lever positions.  The dimples are 4.3mm deep for a 6mm ball.  That seems a lot deeper than necessary and I am wondering if the second ball was added to compensate for that.  Anyways, my investigation so far hasn’t come across a way to lock the handle in position better.


----------



## Ischgl99 (Feb 11, 2022)

A change I made to the lathe is the lubrication of the Norton gearbox.  The gauze that comes from the factory is not much more than a screen that lets the oil flow through quickly and not really doing much.  The first few holes got almost all of the oil.  I decided to try some felt as wicks to slow the oil flow.  McMaster-Carr had some round felt cord, of course not the 5mm I needed, so I bought 1/4” and 3/16” to see which would work.  I made a test fixture with the wicks in the same size hole as the gearbox and let the oil flow through.  It dripped through over the course of hours and I think it will work better than the fast flow rate with the gauze.

The 1/4” felt wouldn’t fit in the holes, and the 3/16” is a bit loose, so I split one end into quarters and spread it out to act as a stop so it would not fall through.  I did not put a wick in the two bearing locations in the back since oil does not flow through there and needs to be drawn down as the shafts spin.  I pumped a bit of oil in there, enough to cover the bottom of the chamber and let it soak.  The flow rate is low enough that most of the oil stays on the gears and does not drip off as much.  I will be watching this to make sure I am not starving the gears of oil, but so far it looks like it is going to work and all the gears are now getting oil instead of just the first few before.


----------



## Navy Chief (Feb 12, 2022)

Ischgl99 said:


> A change I made to the lathe is the lubrication of the Norton gearbox. The gauze that comes from the factory is not much more than a screen that lets the oil flow through quickly and not really doing much. The first few holes got almost all of the oil. I decided to try some felt as wicks to slow the oil flow. McMaster-Carr had some round felt cord, of course not the 5mm I needed, so I bought 1/4” and 3/16” to see which would work. I made a test fixture with the wicks in the same size hole as the gearbox and let the oil flow through. It dripped through over the course of hours and I think it will work better than the fast flow rate with the gauze.
> 
> The 1/4” felt wouldn’t fit in the holes, and the 3/16” is a bit loose, so I split one end into quarters and spread it out to act as a stop so it would not fall through. I did not put a wick in the two bearing locations in the back since oil does not flow through there and needs to be drawn down as the shafts spin. I pumped a bit of oil in there, enough to cover the bottom of the chamber and let it soak. The flow rate is low enough that most of the oil stays on the gears and does not drip off as much. I will be watching this to make sure I am not starving the gears of oil, but so far it looks like it is going to work and all the gears are now getting oil instead of just the first few before.
> 
> View attachment 395988


Good solution to the problem, I have been considering something similar for a different lathe with the same problem. Had not considered round felt, I was thinking about replacing the gauze with a felt pad to slow it down ..

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ischgl99 (Feb 12, 2022)

Navy Chief said:


> Good solution to the problem, I have been considering something similar for a different lathe with the same problem. Had not considered round felt, I was thinking about replacing the gauze with a felt pad to slow it down ..
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


Thanks, I was thinking flat felt as well at first, but was making an order for mcmaster Carr and saw they had the round, so I went with that.  I think I had to buy in increments of 5 feet, so now I have several lifetimes supply left lol.  If you want any, send me a pm with your address and I can cut some for you.


----------



## davidpbest (Feb 12, 2022)

Several of use have implemented one shot oiler systems for our lathes with Norton gearboxes.   In case you haven't seen these, here are some threads that illustrate what a few of us have done.









						One shot lubricator PM1340GT quick change gears (photo heavy)
					

I installed a “one-shot” lubricator for the quick change gears on my PM1340GT lathe.  Others have done this upgrade as well and mine is just another example of how it can be done.  A couple of my buddies that have plowed this ground before were extremely helpful in sharing their insights with...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				












						Pm1340gt Gearbox Pump Oiler System
					

The PM1340GT  is very nicely built, works very well, and I have very few bones to pick with its features and overall quality. One area that did concern me when I was revising the front control switches, was the oiler system for the open Norton style gearbox. The current system (which is probably...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				












						Single-Shot Oiler for PM1340 Lathe
					

I decided to replace the factory supplied oil distribution drip tray.   Click on photo for descriptions.




					www.flickr.com


----------



## Ischgl99 (Feb 12, 2022)

davidpbest said:


> Several of use have implemented one shot oiler systems for our lathes with Norton gearboxes.   In case you haven't seen these, here are some threads that illustrate what a few of us have done.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the links, I did see those and was about to make one, then decided to keep it simple and see how this works.  I have an endoscope that attaches to my smart phone, so I am going to see if I can tell how well the gears are getting lubricated with the felt and if I need to make something like you did.  One thing I want to do is a drip tray like yours to help reduce the mess under the gearbox.


----------



## davidpbest (Feb 12, 2022)

I will say from experience that it's really important get oil to the end of that drip pan at the end closest to the chuck - that last weep hole drips oil down into an area that feeds oil to the bronze bushing that the feed shaft rotates in.  On my 1340, there was some over-spray at the factory that got into that hole and then down into the bushing, and it caused the feed rod to lock up solid, which in turn caused the change gears to strip and break teeth.  That experience is what lead me to the single-shot oiler implementation.  

This is the weep hole I'm referring to - make sure it's clear and you get oil into that end of the drip tray:






That hole feeds oil down into a copper tube that delivers oil to the bronze bushing at the end of the feed shaft.


----------



## Ischgl99 (Feb 12, 2022)

Yes, I recall you mentioning that before, but it’s always good to get a reminder.  I left wicks out of that hole and the other one that feeds a bushing so that there should always be some oil in those holes to lubricate the bushings.  When I put oil in the tray, I do 3-4 pumps and that leaves enough to cover then entire bottom and refill those holes and enough for the gear drips.  Time will tell if my solution works, but it appears so far that everything is getting sufficient lubrication. 

Based on your experience, I’m tempted to remove the shaft for those bushings to make sure they are clear and not blocked like your were.


----------



## Ischgl99 (Feb 13, 2022)

I wanted to see if I could reduce the play in the gear lever so the gears would stay in the desired location as I mentioned earluer.  Since the detents were drilled so deep, the lever body was contacting the backside of the plunger ball since it was deeper than the radius, resulting in the large amount of play causing the gears to not be in the right spot.   I couldn’t find any specs on how deep detents should be, I’m estimating roughly half the radius would be a good start.  I like simple solutions before trying something more complicated, so instead of filling the detent and redrilling, I decided to make a “bullet” plunger and see if that would work.  I made a piece the diameter of the threaded hole and then rounded the end where it contacts the detent.  It reduced the play about in half, but still has more than I would like.  

I contacted PM about the loose gear lever to see if they had come across the issue and see if they had any suggestions.  I found out these detents are hand drilled at the factory, which explains why they could be so deep.  I guess that is for alignment issues, I would have thought they would be drilled while the hole for the gear lever shaft was drilled.  I emailed with Mike at PM and he suggested partially filling the detent slot to get the right depth where the ball will work, but I don’t think I would be able to get the depth consistent, so if I decide to do that, I will fill completely and then drill detent holes the right depth.  For now, I am going to try my bullet and see how it works out, it might be good enough, or I might be updating this post at some point in the future.


----------



## riveter (Aug 10, 2022)

xr650rRider said:


> One thing worth experimenting with on your 3 jaw (any chuck other than 4 jaw) is try it in all the D1-4 positions.  Test runout and then rotate 120 degrees to next position on pins and test again.  Every chuck I've tried, there is 1 sweet spot.  My 3 jaw that came with PM-1340GT is right at .0015" runout for 1 position.  Mark the spindle and mark the chuck and always install in same spot.


That's great advice and I will surely do it. I had been thinking about getting a better 3 jaw chuck, but if it I can get it to run true I use it.


----------

