# Possible To Convert Metric Mitutoyo Height Gauge To Imperial?



## Techie1961

I got a great deal on four Mitutoyo height gauges and jumped at them a bit too quickly. I assumed (I know what assuming can do) that if they were electronic, they could easily be switched from metric to imperial at the touch of a button. Unfortunately, they cannot. So, is it possible to convert the leftmost one and second from the right one with a new board or parts from Mitutoyo? I suspect that for some of them at least, they use the same basic parts.


----------



## wawoodman

Have you contacted Mitutoyo?


----------



## Techie1961

wawoodman said:


> Have you contacted Mitutoyo?


Not yet as I figured they would be shut down for the holidays. Come next week, I will give them a shout. I kind of expect a response where they say "I need a part number and model" and then "that's a metric height gauge" and then silence.


----------



## great white

I usually buy my stuff when I find good stuff at a good price.I either work in the scale the instruments have or just keep a calculator handy to convert if needed.


----------



## kd4gij

What is the model # of the 2 gauges ?


----------



## 4GSR

Mitutoyo does not provide parts for most of the older height gages, if they are too old.  I have a older Mitutoyo height gage with the dial face that needs replacing, no parts available. Same goes with their electronic stuff, too.  But it's worth a try.


----------



## David VanNorman

If they are eaqual in quality just get the one you like based on price an convert the numbers.


----------



## turnitupper

IMPERIAL?
Is that the system where 1000 Cubits=1 hogshead?
I think there's a reference to it on the Rosetta Stone.
John.


----------



## middle.road

The LA warehouse has more stock, especially older than does Aurora - supposedly. 
But as Ken said, they never seem to have what you need if it is older...


----------



## Holescreek

Both of the Mitutoyos should swing both ways with a push of a button.  Can you take a photo of the two of them close upon the buttons?  If by some fluke they have non-standard boards I might be able to locate ones that do both.


----------



## Andre

turnitupper said:


> IMPERIAL?
> Is that the system where 1000 Cubits=1 hogshead?
> I think there's a reference to it on the Rosetta Stone.
> John.



I think if a Cubit was adequate to build pyramids, ones we should note still mystify scientists to this day, I think it's okay to use in the home shop


----------



## RJSakowski

A cubit is a half a yard and a hogshead is 63 gallons so I think you better have another look at the Rosetta stone. 

An interesting bit if trivia: 1 cm/min equals 1.002 furlongs/fortnight in case you are inclined to specify your feed rates in that manner.


----------



## turnitupper

RJSakowski said:


> A cubit is a half a yard and a hogshead is 63 gallons so I think you better have another look at the Rosetta stone.
> 
> An interesting bit if trivia: 1 cm/min equals 1.002 furlongs/fortnight in case you are inclined to specify your feed rates in that manner.


Just a Jolly Jape RJ, at the antiquated Imperial system.
If you must be pedantic a Cubit is variable and a Hogshead is 63 US gallons. 52.5 Imperial gallons, 238.5 litres, 1/4 tun or 6 Firkins, not including variables.
Glad this is in the metrology sections as metrology and metre come from the same Greek word metron (measure).
Talk about a hijacked thread.
John.


----------



## extropic

Maybe Holescreek can help you get where you want to be. In the alternative, my first thought was to resell them then buy what you want.


----------



## Wreck™Wreck

A calculator
Exactly 25.4 MM to one inch as per the NIST in 1959. If you cannot deal with simple multiplication and division then buy a new tool that is scaled in inches. 
A $6.00 calculator from Target is much cheaper.

http://www.nist.gov/pml/wmd/metric/length.cfm


----------



## Techie1961

Wreck™Wreck said:


> A calculator
> Exactly 25.4 MM to one inch as per the NIST in 1959. If you cannot deal with simple multiplication and division then buy a new tool that is scaled in inches.
> A $6.00 calculator from Target is much cheaper.
> 
> http://www.nist.gov/pml/wmd/metric/length.cfm


And I thought this was a friendly site.


----------



## Techie1961

Sorry for the delay in getting the model numbers. One was in the shop and every time I was in there, something shiny caught my attention. One is a 192-613 and the other is a 192-601. Both are strictly metric and as others have pointed out, I can always sell them and buy what I need which I might do.

As one very friendly gentleman pointed out, the factor is exactly 25.4 (which I have been aware of for over 45 years since Canada converted) but I don't really feel like converting every time I want to do a layout. During my toolmaker days, we did all of our work in inches despite the conversion since our customers were the big automakers back then and we dealt with mostly Americans. Most Canadians were tough to make the change also as you can imagine.

I am too old now to go with metric only and as a matter of fact, it is almost impossible to buy metric steel here. All of it is 1/4" x 1", 1" x 3", etc. Thanks for all of your help on this and the hijacking was fun to watch, so no offence taken.


----------



## Wreck™Wreck

Techie1961 said:


> And I thought this was a friendly site.



What exactly do you find unfriendly? 

Advising someone that a simple conversion between inch and millimeters may be done with an inexpensive calculator, this you consider offensive or otherwise unfriendly? Please elaborate.


----------



## Techie1961

Wreck™Wreck said:


> What exactly do you find unfriendly?
> 
> Advising someone that a simple conversion between inch and millimeters may be done with an inexpensive calculator, this you consider offensive or otherwise unfriendly? Please elaborate.


 I don't think anyone wouldn't see "If you cannot deal with simple multiplication and division then buy a new tool..." as being a bit condescending. Maybe you didn't intend it that way but it was in my opinion.


----------



## Wreck™Wreck

Techie1961 said:


> I don't think anyone wouldn't see "If you cannot deal with simple multiplication and division then buy a new tool..." as being a bit condescending. Maybe you didn't intend it that way but it was in my opinion.



Touche, I should have written "if one dislikes translating a metric tool to inch dimensions" then buy an inch measuring tool.

I am a bit jaded however as I have worked in a machine shop for the last 30 years. As absurd as this may sound current practice often has 20 year old part drawings, (parts that we have made for 20 years or more) which are in inches are often dimensioned in millimeters, a bore that was .500 +.001-.000 is now  12.70 +.025 -.00 MM. I spend some part of my days translating inch based part dimensions into inches. This may be an ISO thing or engineers have decided that the metric system is better suited for this purpose, I personally prefer the SI system. However I am not going to buy another $10,000.00 worth of tools when a $6.00 calculator does an excellent job.


----------



## Holescreek

Techie1961 said:


> Sorry for the delay in getting the model numbers. One was in the shop and every time I was in there, something shiny caught my attention. One is a 192-613 and the other is a 192-601. Both are strictly metric and as others have pointed out, I can always sell them and buy what I need which I might do.


 
I'd still like to see a pic of the faces, one thing I've seen over many years of repairing gauges is that most companies don't design their electronic gauges to only do one thing, it's not cost effective. Often times there is a way to switch them even if internally. Other times a button sequence will do the trick.


----------



## Techie1961

Holescreek said:


> I'd still like to see a pic of the faces, one thing I've seen over many years of repairing gauges is that most companies don't design their electronic gauges to only do one thing, it's not cost effective. Often times there is a way to switch them even if internally. Other times a button sequence will do the trick.


That would be amazing if possible. It has been a rough three years after three back surgeries and money is very tight right now for buying a new one.


----------



## Holescreek

Mixed news. The part number of the circuit board in the 192-601 is exactly the same as the part number of the board in the 192-605 which is "in/mm"  What that tells me is that  your cover is just missing the button right between the "PRE" and "ON/OFF" buttons.  So technically (if you're adventurous) you can make the unit switchable with a couple of holes and a paper clip if you were so inclined.    That height gauge came out in 1981 and there are no new parts available for it.

The 192-613 circuit board is one number different from it's in/mm relative so it may not be capable of changing.  If it was, you'd get a change by pressing the bottom right button. I'd guess they didn't put the capability on the chip set though.


----------



## Techie1961

Holescreek said:


> View attachment 118894
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mixed news. The part number of the circuit board in the 192-601 is exactly the same as the part number of the board in the 192-605 which is "in/mm"  What that tells me is that  your cover is just missing the button right between the "PRE" and "ON/OFF" buttons.  So technically (if you're adventurous) you can make the unit switchable with a couple of holes and a paper clip if you were so inclined.    That height gauge came out in 1981 and there are no new parts available for it.
> 
> The 192-613 circuit board is one number different from it's in/mm relative so it may not be capable of changing.  If it was, you'd get a change by pressing the bottom right button. I'd guess they didn't put the capability on the chip set though.


Holescreek you're awesome! I pulled the cover off the 601 unit and like you show in the photo, it has the in/mm button on it. I opened the hole through the cover and was about to try it but the movement wasn't acting nice. I pulled it apart and the clock spring on the one gear was kind of messed up. I did my best to straighten and recoil it and suspect that it's purpose in life is to remove backlash. I'm trying to clean up the rack teeth and gears and will try it out tomorrow.







Do you think that the 192-613 inch equivalent board is still available? It looks like a fairly simple board. If it isn't, I'm going to try to get the 601 unit in nice condition and keep it and sell the other as a mm unit.

Thanks again!


----------



## Holescreek

Edit:  I didn't see that you were able to re-coil the spring, there's a teensy bit of hope that you can still use it. The procedure for setting the proper tension is not complicated but is very hard to describe and I'm getting ready to leave work. It isn't just a matter of putting it back in the gauge. Without presetting the tension the gauge won't repeat when you change directions.


----------



## turnitupper

Techie1961, 
In the two photos of the gears, it seems they are transposed in the different shots. I have never had a height gauge apart, so I do'nt know if it would matter.
Pretty good job rewinding that spring as I have tried it a couple of times but usually end up bouncing the devices off the floor and into the bin.
Best of luck with the repair.
John.


----------



## Techie1961

Holescreek said:


> Edit:  I didn't see that you were able to re-coil the spring, there's a teensy bit of hope that you can still use it. The procedure for setting the proper tension is not complicated but is very hard to describe and I'm getting ready to leave work. It isn't just a matter of putting it back in the gauge. Without presetting the tension the gauge won't repeat when you change directions.


Thanks HolesCreek, I got it back together and it seems nice and smooth as well. I had to fudge the batteries for a test but it works! For the clock spring, I put about a half wind on it and since it's only for backlash, I think it will be alright. I truly appreciate the help and was exactly what I needed. Now if I can get a new board cheap for the 613, I'll be thrilled. I'll probably fix it up and sell it though as a metric unit.

While I had the 613 apart, I found a lot of debris in the cavity where the movement is. There is a brass leaf spring with steel backing that applies resistance to the mechanism so that it doesn't slide down on its own. It had worn through the brass and was rubbing on the steel spring. I cleaned it all out and will make up a new brass slider and polish the rod. Should make a great metric height gauge if I can't get a board.

The 601 now converts to inch at the press of the button. It's a bit submerged but I'll likely make a small plastic button to raise it up a bit. The battery cover is missing and unless I can find a new one, I'll have to make one from aluminum and work out the battery contacts underneath it.







turnitupper said:


> Techie1961,
> In the two photos of the gears, it seems they are transposed in the different shots. I have never had a height gauge apart, so I do'nt know if it would matter.
> Pretty good job rewinding that spring as I have tried it a couple of times but usually end up bouncing the devices off the floor and into the bin.
> Best of luck with the repair.
> John.


Thanks Turnitupper, I don't think that it matters at all since it is just for backlash. It works great but time will tell.


----------



## Holescreek

I'm off for the weekend and don't have any parts here to use for pics but maybe I can describe the reassembly of the encoder.  Believe it or not it involves an unbent paper clip!

When you flip the encoder over check out the stampings on the top disc. The bottom disc is the same but does not rotate (IIRC). Do not damage the notches around the outer edges. About midway into the disc you'll notice a stamped arrow and a little hole the same diameter as the paper clip.  
(1) Rotate the small hole (on the top disc) to the 3 o'clock position and insert the paper clip so the top disc can't rotate.
(2) Place the encoder (with paper clip) into the gauge body with the gears toward the rack but keep the encoder pulled away from the rack initially. Rotate the encoder clockwise so only the bottom gear (with the spring) makes contact with the rack.  
Here's the second most tricky part - you may want to practice it a couple of times.
(3) With only the lower gear engaged on the rack, push on the bottom of the body of the gauge to raise is about 1/4"~3/8".  This rotates the lower gear to wind the spring.  If you did it right you can hear the spring unwind when you pull the gear away from the rack.
(4) Assuming the spring winding went well do #3 again but leave the lower gear engaged with the rack whole you rotate the encoder counter-clockwise to engage the top gear with the rack too.  Once in place install the 3 screws and remove the paper clip.


----------



## Holescreek

Good work on the first one.  You're all set to go into business!  I have no idea what parts are available to you in Canada but I can occasionally get battery covers. BTW, I priced replacement boards and they were over $350 from Mitutoyo.


----------



## turnitupper

Techie1961 said:


> I'll likely make a small plastic button to raise it up a bit.


Buy that $6 calculator previously mentioned and use one of the buttons from it or an old remote control or anything that has a similar sized button.
John.


----------



## Techie1961

Holescreek said:


> Good work on the first one.  You're all set to go into business!  I have no idea what parts are available to you in Canada but I can occasionally get battery covers. BTW, I priced replacement boards and they were over $350 from Mitutoyo.


Thanks for the information on indexing the tensioning gear. As for the price of the new board. Wow! And I suspect that they'll have them until they toss them at their last inventory when the accountants give them the go ahead. And they wonder why people purchase cheap stuff. Sheesh! 



turnitupper said:


> Buy that $6 calculator previously mentioned and use one of the buttons from it or an old remote control or anything that has a similar sized button.
> John.


Not a bad idea. I'll have a look around. Thanks!


----------



## Holescreek

Your old -601 was from their "precision" line of gauges.  We still have a few of it's cousins (-605's) working in the plant I work in today.  Original price was somewhere around $1600 new in 1981. They are still considered better that the current crop of cheap height gauges available today.


----------



## Techie1961

Holescreek said:


> Your old -601 was from their "precision" line of gauges.  We still have a few of it's cousins (-605's) working in the plant I work in today.  Original price was somewhere around $1600 new in 1981. They are still considered better that the current crop of cheap height gauges available today.


Wow! That's a ton of money especially from that era. I think I have a nice little gauge now and plan on keeping it for a long time. Today I made a battery cover for it so other than a new scriber and scriber clamp, it's ready for action. The 613 will be going on Kijiji in a couple days.


----------



## Techie1961

Holescreek said:


> Your old -601 was from their "precision" line of gauges.  We still have a few of it's cousins (-605's) working in the plant I work in today.  Original price was somewhere around $1600 new in 1981. They are still considered better that the current crop of cheap height gauges available today.


So it looks like I have a really good gauge for my little personal shop. That's great. One thing I'd like to ask; when I turn the 601 on, it always comes up in mm mode, do you think the jumper (J1 in the photo) is what sets it to start in inch mode?


----------



## Holescreek

I have no idea. The company I work for only works in metric so no one has ever had an issue with startup!


----------



## Techie1961

Holescreek said:


> I have no idea. The company I work for only works in metric so no one has ever had an issue with startup!


Do you know if your gauges start in mms? I noticed that the photo of the board you posted shows J1 soldered and mine is open.


----------



## Holescreek

Techie1961 said:


> Do you know if your gauges start in mms? I noticed that the photo of the board you posted shows J1 soldered and mine is open.


 
I'd need to locate which machine line has one of the 605's on their gauge table  and check. It's been too long since I've used one to remember.  Typically I never see them until they need repairs.  For some reason I think they turn on in whatever mode they were in when they were shut off.

You could always short across the terminals and see for yourself.


----------



## Techie1961

Holescreek said:


> I'd need to locate which machine line has one of the 605's on their gauge table  and check. It's been too long since I've used one to remember.  Typically I never see them until they need repairs.  For some reason I think they turn on in whatever mode they were in when they were shut off.
> 
> You could always short across the terminals and see for yourself.


Thanks Holescreek. I'm going to try that tomorrow when I'm in the shop. I suspect that it enables the ability to hold the last setting whereas open, it goes to metric each time.


----------



## Techie1961

Took me a a little longer than "tomorrow" but I soldered up the J1 jumper and it now starts in inches each time which is good by me.


----------



## Holescreek

Good to know!


----------



## GreatOldOne

Techie1961 said:


> Took me a a little longer than "tomorrow" but I soldered up the J1 jumper and it now starts in inches each time which is good by me.



Thanks for this... My height gauge always started in inches, and I prefer metric. Unsoldering this jumper on mine has sorted it out.


----------

