# Yet Another Atlas Mill Thread - The Clueless Mfc



## CluelessNewB (Apr 27, 2016)

Rather than hijack one of the other Atlas Mill threads I decided it would be best to start my own.  

I have had this mill since late last summer but I haven't had much time to work on it.   I had started dis-assembly a few months ago but today I finally removed the main casting from the floor cabinet and started prep for painting.  Here are a few pictures of the floor cabinet which I believe is Atlas No. 9050 that was used for both the Atlas mill and the shaper.   Does anyone know what the large threaded hole in the top is for?  I didn't actually measure it but it appears to be about 3/4" in diameter.  It may be pipe thread.  It sort of looks like a pipe coupling welded under the top of the table.  I believe it is original since the paint all matches.   

I plan to use Rustoleum "Dark Machine Gray" since it is an ok but not perfect match to the original.


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## wa5cab (Apr 27, 2016)

Rich,

The threaded hole is for a coolant drain line.  In the 30's and 40's, Atlas made and sold a couple of coolant supplies that sat on the shelf below the lathes or mills.  The base and A-model mills did not have the cutout and removable plate on the back of the M1-1 Housing (column) for the built-in pump/reservoir.  That came out with the B model.


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## Rob (Apr 28, 2016)

Spiral_Chips said:


> One of those cabinets is offered now on E-Bay....  for $599.99 US!!!  I think some of these scrappers are trying to fund their retirement accounts, not just make a quick buck.
> 
> Spiral_Chips



Let's see if it sells.  A lot of the items for sale now just keep getting relisted the price is so outrages.


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## CluelessNewB (Apr 28, 2016)

I'm pleading the 5th because if I admit what I paid for the whole mill with stand, kick out and vise I could be arrested for theft,  but I will say it was less than what they are asking for that stand!


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## Green Frog (Apr 28, 2016)

I've previously stated that since the main body of the mill is "John Deere green" I kinda wish they had painted the original cabinet the same color instead of trim yellow, but at least I HAVE the original cabinet.  . Now if I can finish the over arm support bracket that came with it and get the knee working right...


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## CluelessNewB (Apr 28, 2016)

I do like the green.  The eyes and nose remind me a bit of "Kilroy Was Here". 

My knee was rather stiff also.   I just kept working it and spraying with Kroil and eventually got it free enough to get it apart.  I'm not sure what the previous owner used for cutting fluid but it solidified into something the consistency of roofing cement.  Mineral spirits does soften it but it takes a while.


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## rwm (Apr 28, 2016)

Rustoleum Dark Machine Gray is nice. You may also consider "Machinery Gray" from Ace Hardware. It is a little darker and I like it for tools.
Robert


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## 34_40 (Apr 30, 2016)

It's good the hear you got a good deal C.N.B....   I paid a bunch but I did get things like the rotary table and vice...   And, OH....


jk, jk...  and thanks for your help.


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## CluelessNewB (Sep 29, 2016)

View attachment 136784
View attachment 136785


View attachment 136788


With summer winding down I have finally been able to spend a bit more time in the shop.   I have been cleaning and painting over the past few days.   I still have a few more parts to clean up an paint.  It will probably be a few weeks before I will get much more time in the shop.

FYI the paint is Rustoleum Dark Machine Gray, yes it's boring and yes it's not really anything like the original...  Sorry for the sideways pictures but they look fine on my computer.


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## Fairbanks (Sep 29, 2016)

Very nice.  I'm working on an MFB and repainting with the machine gray.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## wa5cab (Sep 29, 2016)

Give the new Dark Machinery Gray 70+ years and it will most likely look like the 70 year old paint does today.  Of course, the 140 year old paint still may not match the now 70 year old.    It all looks very good, of course.

I'm going to write a separate thread on the rotated photos subject.


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## 34_40 (Sep 29, 2016)

Even sideways... it looks great!


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## CluelessNewB (Dec 2, 2016)

A bit more progress:


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## VSAncona (Dec 2, 2016)

That's looking great. Nice job.


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## 34_40 (Dec 3, 2016)

one word.......   *WOW!*


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## CluelessNewB (Dec 23, 2016)

Getting close.  I need to do a bit more tweeking of the gib adjustments.  I also want to install a light.   The two switches are on/off (white) and hi/low speed (black).


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## JPMacG (Dec 23, 2016)

Beautiful!   I think I can smell the fresh paint through my computer screen.


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## 34_40 (Dec 23, 2016)

Times 2! That's almost a piece of jewelry.  to nice to use..


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## CluelessNewB (Dec 28, 2016)

No new pictures but yesterday I actually made my first chips.  I did spend about 2 hours getting the gibs adjusted.  The Z axis was the most troublesome.  I used a 1/4 x 3" horizontal cutter on the arbor to square up some mystery metal sticky aluminum.  I was rather happy with the performance.   My next attempt will be using an end mill in the holder.  The only  MT2 holder I have is 1/2" and only 1 end mill that fits.


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## wa5cab (Dec 28, 2016)

Atlas sold a set of reducing bushings to hold 7/16", 3/8", 5/16" and 1/4" dia. shank cutters.  You could look for a set of those.  But they didn't offer 3/16" and 1/8".  You could look for a set of those, although they are moderately expensive.  Or you could buy a 1/16" to 1/2" set of 2MT collets.  There is an outfit in Hong Kong who sell a set that is good quality.  I have it and the 3MT set.

Whatever you do, if you do buy any of the reducing bushings do NOT attempt to use a Weldon style (those with a set-screw flat ground on the shank) milling cutter in them.  You will end up unable to remove the bushing and the cutter from the holder.


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## CluelessNewB (Dec 28, 2016)

Given the limited work envelope of the Atlas Mill the MT2 collets might be the best option.       Import MT2 holders are available also but the minimum size that I found was 3/16" and they appear a bit bulky.


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## 34_40 (Dec 29, 2016)

wa5cab said:


> Or you could buy a 1/16" to 1/2" set of 2MT collets.  There is an outfit in Hong Kong who sell a set that is good quality.  I have it and the 3MT set.



Can you expand on that info? What is the outfit specifically?  Were they expensive?


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## wa5cab (Dec 30, 2016)

Well, they no longer seem to have an Imperial 2MT set listed.  Only in 3MT.  But you might write them and inquire.  Maybe they still have a few sets left.  I bought both of my sets from them on eBay I think (and subsequently a few other things direct).  As best I recall, the 2MT set (which is smaller as it can only go up to 1/2") cost $40-something.    http://www.ctctools.biz/collet-sets-1/


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## 34_40 (Dec 30, 2016)

Thanks


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## CluelessNewB (Jan 21, 2017)

These pictures were taken a couple of weeks ago.   The finishing touches, Dazor light and a cover to keep sawdust off.


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## VSAncona (Jan 21, 2017)

That turned out great. Having gone through one of these machines myself, I can appreciate the amount of work you had to put in.


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## 34_40 (Jan 21, 2017)

That's just beautiful CNB!


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## Silverbullet (Jan 22, 2017)

Looks better then NEW , The gray paint just fits machinery , I did read you have two speeds on your motor or is the black switch for reverse?  I'm going back and re-read that part. Just wanted to say you've done a great job on the rebuild. Also the cover is a great idea , I'm making covers for all of mine after I get them set up in my shop, I'm going to buy cheap moving blankets from HF between $5 +$7 each. I have heavy duty sewing machines for leather they can handle the job easy. Plus the quilting pattern sewn in gives strength. Thanks for sharing my atlas needs a couple parts but ill make the guard and the handle for the table. These finished builds inspire me to keep moving even being in a wheelchair I can do it all.


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## A618fan2 (Jan 23, 2017)

VSAncona said:


> That turned out great. Having gone through one of these machines myself, I can appreciate the amount of work you had to put in.



+1 on that.  Lotta parts go into that little machine - nice work!

John


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