# Is There A "proper" Way To Refinish An Atlas Mill?



## Fairbanks (Aug 13, 2015)

Greetings All,

This might not be the correct forum for this question.  But I thought this would be a good place to start.

Anyway, I have an early (serial #600) Atlas horizontal mill, Model MF.  I have taken it all the way down to nuts, bolts and various parts and have cleaned the heavy grunge off with a power washer.  Normally I like to leave the original "patina" and work out any mechanical issues and then start working with a new (to me) machine.

This little guy needs looks like he needs some extra love and attention, there are a few replacement parts and multiple coats of replacement paint.  This being the case I thought it would be a good candidate for a complete strip and repaint.  It looks like I will have to track a few parts down as I go but since I'm not in a hurry for this machine I want to take the time to do a nice job.

I know that there are a bunch of posts on this topic but was hoping that someone can tell me the best or correct way to strip the paint and then do a nice paint job.

Pictures after I get the process underway......

Thanks in Advance!

Steve


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## AR1911 (Aug 13, 2015)

I use Zep HD degreaser to remove paint and grease from ferrous parts.  5 gallons, use it straight. Alloy parts I use Aircrafy Paint Remover. Rusty parts use Evaporust.  Wire wheel and polish as required. I use aerosol engine paints. 

Let's see some photos!


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## wa5cab (Aug 14, 2015)

Fairbanks,

This is the correct Forum.

I generally agree with AR1911.  Except that I have a bead blast cabinet for small to medium parts.  I use Rustoleum primer and for the early Atlas machines like the MF and MFA, Rustoleum dark machinery gray.  For machines made after about 1950, the lighter machinery gray is close.  The Craftsman machines from the 30's and 40's were different colors depending upon their purchasing agent's whim that year.  Mostly shades of blue or green sometimes with gray mixed in.  No yellows, reds or oranges, though.


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## AR1911 (Aug 14, 2015)

Yep, I also use a blast cabinet, with glass beads.   I also should have mentioned that one of my favorite cleaners is automotive wheel cleaner. It's perfect for removing dried film and old chemicals from original paint, when you don't want to harm the paint. It cleans very well yet is safe for almost all paints and all metals.  Just be sure it says it's safe for all wheel types, including painted wheels


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## mattthemuppet2 (Aug 15, 2015)

stick it in the spooge tank, most of that paint will get blown right off. Then a wire wheel or other chemical methods to get the tougher paint off. Electrolysis is super cheap and very effective, not just for rust. The only issue is with large awkward parts, but I reckon most of an Atlas mill should fit in one of those large plastic tubs. Just make sure no one uses the washing soda for actually washing things - I'll have to lock up the next box


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## kd4gij (Aug 15, 2015)

I agree with wa5cab any thing that fits in the blast cabinet gets blasted .


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## A618fan2 (Aug 16, 2015)

Mine was in a similar  condition.  I decided to strip it down to bare metal and start from scratch.  I don't have access to a sand blaster or I think that's what I'd have done.  I used a chemical stripper (Kleen-Strip I think) and scrapers to remove the paint followed by a paint thinner wash then wire wheel brush followed by paint thinner wipe down.  I used Sherwin Williams industrial primer and alkyd enamel paints.  It's still holding up well after 4 years. A little more of the story is here if you're interested:  http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=108468&p=806110&hilit=atlas+MF#p806110


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