# 1939 SOUTH BEND 11  111B  IOR



## Ulma Doctor (Mar 16, 2013)

*1939 SOUTH BEND 11  111B  IQR*

I recently acquired a south bend 11. i just picked it up this morning! i'm so stoked!!!!
i haven't slept much since wednesday ,out of sheer excitement.
i have read everything i could get my hands on about the new arrival, here's what i have ascertained until now...
South Bent 11 Catalog# 111B 5' bed serial number 105014 IQR  
D.W.W. is stamped as well, i have not found out what that is yet. i suspect that it may be a naval inspector or code?
it was produced in 1939. it has a MT2 tailstock ram, i haven't removed the chuck to find the spindle thread or id taper.

She looks like a challenge to put back together.... i have done stupider things.
 she looks like shes been knocked around a bit. i see the beauty hidden inside and have the will to breathe life back into her. 
should i attempt it? probably not. will i get her running? most definitely.....:nuts:
i'm the guy that will go and find a way do the stuff everyone says can't be done, sometimes for spite, most times for the challenge.

With that being said, i introduce you to Henrietta...My first South Bend Lathe.
Thanks for reading!















the serial number should read 105014 IQR, the numbers were very hard to read. i found a similar serial # that would support the finding .

Coming soon.....CHAPTER 2!


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## Chainsaw Driver (Mar 17, 2013)

Very cool, please keep us posted.


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## road (Mar 17, 2013)

nice  !   keep us in the loop on the build ....


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## woodtickgreg (Mar 17, 2013)

Very cool, it looks a lot like a 10L. If you are going to restore it I would highly recommend the rebuild manual for a heavy ten off of ebay. even though your model is not covered specifically it is very simaler to a heavy ten and a lot of the info will apply. It will show you how to get things apart without causing damage.


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## Taz (Mar 17, 2013)

Very cool, welcome to the group Henrietta!  I see the beauty under the surface too, I think it's sticking out of that mass that used to be the compound though... Yooouuch!  That will be a very nice lathe when you're done, very cool size too.


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## fastback (Mar 17, 2013)

I also am looking forward to seeing this lathe come back to life.  Looks a lot like my 1942, 10L.  I think this is a great find.


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## Tamper84 (Mar 17, 2013)

Wow very nice!!!! Looks good!!!! Can't wait to see the next chapter. 

Chris


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## ScrapMetal (Mar 17, 2013)

My 11" is from '39 as well.  If you are missing any things/need measurements/etc. I may be able to help answer questions specific to the 11" SB.

I do expect to see plenty of pics as you are bringing it back into use.

Now the fun begins,

-Ron


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## Ulma Doctor (Mar 17, 2013)

ScrapMetal said:


> My 11" is from '39 as well.  If you are missing any things/need measurements/etc. I may be able to help answer questions specific to the 11" SB.
> 
> I do expect to see plenty of pics as you are bringing it back into use.
> 
> ...


thanks ron,
i'll be taking you up on the offer, very soon i imagine)


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## george wilson (Mar 20, 2013)

Ulma,I had posted a post that seems to have disappeared. These old SB lathes may have spindle bearings that are just cast iron machined from the solid headstock casting. Put a block of wood near the chuck and with a crow bar,see if the chuck can be lifted up. The museum I worked at had a SB of this vintage which would not cut metal. When asked to check it out,I found the chuck would lift up about 1/8",so worn were the spindle bearings. And,nothing could be done about it. Later,SB started to use replaceable bronze bearings. I hope your lathe checks out O.K.. Keep those bearings well oiled whenever you use the lathe.

The only cure if the bearings are worn out would be a line boring of the bearings to make them round again,and at the correct height to line up with the tail stock. Then,a new spindle would have to be made with its bearing surfaces enlarged to fit the bored out headstock bearings. Best to just look for a new headstock if this proves to be the case. Good luck,your friend,George.


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## Ulma Doctor (Mar 20, 2013)

thank you george,
i was able to read your last post before it disappeared...
i also commented back, if the lost posts show back up this will be redundant, but here we go...
i put a 1" rod in the chuck and gave a good push and pull on it there was no noticeable end play, i affixed a DI to the spindle flange and gave an up down on the rod, the deflection on the spindle was less than .002", very good i thought...
i had posted pictures of the spindle journals and the caps, all were in very good shape.
i will be sure to repost the pictures if they remain lost..
thanks for the continued interest in my project)


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## george wilson (Mar 20, 2013)

Count yourself very lucky,Ulma. There are pickoff shims to make small adjustments in your headstock bearings. From the looks of the lathe,I was leary that it might have had a lot of use,and maybe not proper maintenance. Those cast iron bearings can last many,many years IF they are properly oiled. And,that means every time you use the lathe. I've forgotten the setup on those old SB lathes. There may be a little oil reservoir under the bearings,with an oil cup to add oil into. They may have wicks that carry the oil up to the bearings. Those wicks need to be replaced because over the years they can get clogged with dried out crud,and will not carry the oil to the bearings. That would be VERY BAD. Be sure to unscrew the oilers,remove the spindle,or whatever you have to do to remove the old wicks and replace them with felt. Sorry I can't be more specific,but it has been many years since I looked at the old model SB lathe like you have. Be scrupulously clean when re assembling the spindle. Get nothing on those bearing surfaces.

Take off a .001" shim,no more. You don't want the bearings too tight,or they will overheat and bind when the machine warms up. This could have disastrous results,so when you do get the machine running for a while,turn it off and check how easily the chuck can be rotated. Of it is snug at all,add a .001" shim.

Those shims are likely stacked,very thin shim stock,"glued" together. Be sure you are peeling off only 1 layer. Measure the layer you peel off to make sure it is only .001" thick.

Every time you use the lathe,put a little oil in the oil cups. It will leak out around the spindle as the rotation carries the oil up to the spindle. Bridgeport milling machines also have a "total loss" oiling system even today.

P.S.: Be sure to regularly oil the rotating parts behind the apron. They are open to the air,and do not run in oil baths. Sooner or later,a shaft or gear WILL gall and break or wring off the shaft if never oiled. I wish you had a manual to show you where to oil these parts. You could easily get one from Tony Griffiths Engineering. Google him. I went to see him,and have bought manuals he reprints. Excellent job he does. But,might cost about $100.00+,depending on the size of the manual.

The older Myford lathes had plain cast iron bearings. I've seen them fitted with largish glass oil fillers atop their spindle bearing caps. You can let a little oil in easily with the little lever they have,and you can see the oil inside the glass to be sure they aren't empty. They look pretty cool,I think. I don't know if they came that way,or were modified by owners. Not sure if the Myfords have the built in reservoirs like the SB lathes.

ALWAYS check the spindle to see if it's getting hot,even after you have initially,just in case the oil isn't getting the bearings oiled. The consequences are severe if those bearings get worn.


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## Ulma Doctor (Mar 20, 2013)

thank you george for your wisdom,
i have a lubrication chart i was able to dig up.
i was surprised when i pulled the caps off, there was still liquid oil in the journals and liquid oil in the cups.
here's the journals


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## Ulma Doctor (Mar 20, 2013)

i got the motor out of Henrietta, the motor is spinning very rough...



she will get a 2hp 3 phase motor upgrade!


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## ScrapMetal (Mar 20, 2013)

Ulma Doctor said:


> i got the motor out of Henrietta, the motor is spinning very rough...
> View attachment 50084
> 
> 
> she will get a 2hp 3 phase motor upgrade!



Be sure and check your shaft/pulley inner diameter.  The original motor on my 11" has a 3/4" shaft.  The Baldor 1.5 hp 3-phase I'm replacing it with has a 7/8" shaft.  I've found a small pulley with a 7/8" ID but it is slightly larger and doesn't have quite the same profile as my old belt.  If I can't get it to run with the belt I may have to turn a new pulley from scratch.

Oh, and the new motor is rated at 1800, combine that with a slightly larger pulley and the lathe will be turning a bit faster than advertised.  Not sure if I'm okay with that or not.

-Ron


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## Ulma Doctor (Mar 20, 2013)

i just put the motor om the bench, pulled out the old wiring that was just barely insulated....:scared:
i set the motor on end and gave her a spin....a bunch dirt clods came out of the motor, then it rotated free as a bird:shocked:
this got me to thinking, which is usually not a good thing.....
i layed the motor down, wired the motor for single phase 115v, hooked up my pigtail and put the juice to her.
to my amazement she spit out 2 more smaller dirt clods and ran quiet and smooth as can be.
i put some 10wt in the oil caps that still had liquid oil in them and let her run for about 5 minutes on the bench.
i was figuring if i was going to see a smoke show it would happen in the first five minutes. it ran very nicely.
i'm thinking to reconsider replacing the motor.

 let's leave her heart in her, as it were.


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## Ulma Doctor (Mar 20, 2013)

Genltemen, Ladies...

i have made an error in determining the year of manufacture for my south bend 11.
a recent search led me to an invaluable website:

SBL Serial Number File

i found my lathes predeceasing serial number was manufactured in 1940,as well as it's later counterpart was manufactured in november of 1940.
 through osmosis i have been proven wrong in my estimation of the year of manufacture...:madebooboo:


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## Ulma Doctor (Mar 22, 2013)

due to unforeseeable conditions, this will be the last posting in regards to this project.

feel free to private message me for updates and pictures.
thanks for you intrest


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