# Mill dolly. Has anyone tried one?



## Flightmap (Mar 14, 2014)

I am interested in putting a knee mill on a dolly that I can move in my shop.  It will be against a wall and I wanted to be able to clean behind it or possibly access the back for maintenance.

has any one done this?

does anyone have pictures or drawings of a cam operated castor system?

has anyone used a pallet dolly with through-holes for leveling feet?


----------



## rmack898 (Mar 14, 2014)

I use a narrow pallet jack. 
Everything in my shop is on a base with fork pockets to make it easy to move anytime with the pallet jack.


----------



## jamie76x (Mar 14, 2014)

Be very careful when putting wheels on machines, they tend to fall over. Also it can make them chatter and cut out of alignment (lathe).

I agree with the above post, If you must move them I would make solid sturdy skids for them that a pallet jack can slip under to move them when needed.


----------



## GK1918 (Mar 14, 2014)

Also been on my mind a long time.  I'm swaying for a cam set up with cast iron wheels,  just enough for clearance,  I gotta come up with
a pretty robust idea I'm in the 3,000 + lb class.  The cam set up will be a simple over center device.  My reason Is a 50ft move into a
new addition this summer (I hope)   
sam


----------



## Senna (Mar 14, 2014)

The best devices I've seen to move heavy equipment are the ones which rest the machine on it's base as intended. These have a frame of sorts which bolts to the TOP or SIDES of the machine base. The contraption to then move the machine straddles the base but when raised contacts the frame thingy and lifts the machine an inch or two.
Roll the machine to where you want it, drop it back on the floor and then store the lifting device out of the way until the next time you need it.

All that said, my machines are up on blocks or feet which allow me to use my pallet jack to move them around. Works well.


----------



## GK1918 (Mar 14, 2014)

Yes Ken does boat travel lift's ring a bell, 100 ton  yatch moved with only straps,  only an inch from the ground


----------



## Flightmap (Mar 14, 2014)

GK1918 said:


> Also been on my mind a long time.  I'm swaying for a cam set up with cast iron wheels,  just enough for clearance,  I gotta come up with
> a pretty robust idea I'm in the 3,000 + lb class.  The cam set up will be a simple over center device.  My reason Is a 50ft move into a
> new addition this summer (I hope)
> sam


This is exactly what I want to do.  Didn't want to limit or filter any of the responses.

the boat idea is a good one, but yhe cam idea is the direction I want to go

anyone have a set of plans?  Especially the cam design!


----------



## Senna (Mar 14, 2014)

Flightmap said:


> This is exactly what I want to do.  Didn't want to limit or filter any of the responses.
> 
> the boat idea is a good one, but yhe cam idea is the direction I want to go
> 
> anyone have a set of plans?  Especially the cam design!



I'd be thinking overcenter stop toggle bars rather than cams which I think would introduce a lot of friction.


----------



## stevet (Mar 14, 2014)

This sounds like what you're looking for. http://www.freewebs.com/leftfieldengineering/myprojects.htm  Check under "my projects" about half way down.

Stevet


----------



## jmhoying (Mar 14, 2014)

I made a moving dolly for my mill that has removable wheels.  I wasn't planning moving it often and didn't want to raise the overall height of the mill up much.  I used 4"x4"x1/4" angle iron under the short lengths of the base.  On the ends, I welded 30"x 1 1/2" x 1/4" strips that overlap each other (one coming from the front large angle, one coming from the back)  Two 1/4" bolts hold these arms together and keep the large angle in place and squared up.  I welded 3/4" shafts (for the axles) on the front and rear face of the large angle iron, each protruding about 3" to the outside of the cart.  These shafts are located about 2 1/2" from the floor, so with a 6" wheel, there is 1/2" clearance.   When I want to put the wheels on the mill, I just use a decent sized pry bar and raise the corner enough to slip a wheel on. I have a hole in the end of the shaft to secure the wheel with a cotter key.  This may not be convenient enough for the original poster, but it only takes a few minutes to put the wheels on.  Having the wheels at the far corners of the mill makes it very stable.

These are the wheels that I use.



I bought a larger lot of them and have 8 left on eBay. (search for "Fairbanks 236 wheel")

Jack
Fort Loramie


----------



## sped35 (Mar 15, 2014)

I am also in the pallet jack group. I'm 6'2" and I like the extra height after I put the risers under my equipment.


----------



## Mac1 (Mar 16, 2014)

This may not be exactly what you want, but the idea will work with most devices you want to move.  You just need to build it strong enough.  I have used it on a tablesaw, jointer and cabinet. The one pictured is all wood and cheap castors and works very good.
This is also my first post, hope the attachment right.


----------



## Terrywerm (Mar 16, 2014)

I have not yet used one, but am considering it, and I must admit that I like Mac1's pics.  Since my Clausing 8520 is under 1000 lbs, I should be able to make something similar with steel tubing quite easily.


----------



## smallfly (Mar 16, 2014)

wellllll---i knew i had seen a mill dolly in here somewhere before---go to this link--http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=4022---and you will find good pictures of a b.p. mill dolly.http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=4022---enjoy re  steve  in  mt.


----------



## rebush (Mar 17, 2014)

I have my Millrite up on wheels. Welded a frame out of 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 thick wall angle iron. Welded 5 inch steel wheels to the bottom. My neighbor has a fork lift picked it up and put the new base under it. Bought 1/2 thick anti-vibration pads from McMaster-Carr keeps it from rolling and self levels the mill. When I need to move it I use the floor jack lift just enough to clear the pads and I can push it around the shop by myself. The other plus is it is now at a very comfortable working height. Roger


----------



## jmhoying (Mar 19, 2014)

I took a few photos of the dolly (moving cart?) that I described earlier in this thread.  This version isn't really meant for leaving on the mill, but just for moving it when needed.  I mainly used it to move the mill from the far back of a machine shop to the loading area.  One person can easily push a 1 ton mill.  And if you have gravel or rough concrete, you can lay down angle iron rails for the V-groove wheels to roll on.  To install, I raise one end of the mill with a pry bar and slip half the cart under it, then repeat with the other side. Then bolt the side together, raise the corners to slip the wheels on and you are good to go.


5"x3" angle iron ends


Ugly welds, but they hold!


6" cast iron wheels (I have two extra sets if anyone needs some)

Jack
Fort Loramie, Ohio


----------



## GK1918 (Mar 19, 2014)

Lots of good ideas floating.  What if? with Jacks idea (above)  the four base holes were tapped, and ever so slowly one by one, bolts are
tightened lifting the mill evenly and Jack's idea slipped in there and bolted up.  Myself its the quick and easy not a nasa machined thing.
You only need a little clearance on a concrete floor and if a wheel or something crokes it wont go far like 3/16 inch.  Then when moved,
suppose these four bolts aid in leveling? I should think?  For me,  my four holes are like 3/4 I have taps for that, that should lift
3000lb or + only a shave of the floor.  Then remove this (jig) put in the corner for who knows when......or never again.
golden rule;;;;; moving and rigging the heavy's  keep it low to the ground.  
samuel


----------



## ML_Woy (Apr 3, 2014)

Here is a picture of a dolly I built about a  year ago with casters and it has worked real well. It is simple and effective




M.L.Woy


----------

