# What size screws do you stock up on?



## Ken from ontario (May 7, 2017)

You must have some preference when choosing screws even though the type of projects dictates (to an extend) what type of fasteners ought to be used but when you must have a few sizes and types that you use the most.

I'm  just curious what others stock up on when they go shopping for  screws and why socket head cap screws are always the favorite by so many.

I always have 10-32"x 3/4"and 1/4"-20,,x2" and some 3/8"-16 mostly socket head cap screws and  some flat and button cap screws  handy, like to have some stainless steel but usually don't buy them unless I need them.


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## David S (May 7, 2017)

Most of my work is in imperial so keep a stock of everything from 0-80, 1-72,.....on up to 1/2" coarse and fine.  A number are socket heads, but have all sorts of heads.  Also a crude assortment of smaller metric fasteners.

Oh and I tend to stock the longest size with full thread, and then cut down as required.

David


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## woodchucker (May 7, 2017)

You have to realize some of the people here work on monster size projects, some not so big, and others micro.
So the answers will vary.
I have 2-56 to 1/2-13
most in steel zinc coated and  black oxide on most of the smaller and upto  5/16.
a box or 2 of 1/4-20 in SS socket.   So head shape varies. Most are machine , socket, a small amount are flat head. And many are cap . Lengths are all over the place, *most *under 1" until the larger size. But of course I stock longer ins the smaller just in case, just not as many.
Same with wood screws all over the place. I have lucked out at some garage and estate sales and bought new boxes for pennies on the dollar.


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## Cobra (May 7, 2017)

Have a fair stock of both IMP and Metric built by sourcing at least a few extra of every size that I need for projects through the years.
Never seem to have all the sizes that I need so the stockpile continues to grow.
Most I would buy locally but McMaster-Carr still gets business from Canada but it means that you fill orders with extras to take full advantage of the horrendous shipping charges to get them across the border to the Great White North.


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## JimDawson (May 7, 2017)

I only stock what I need to buy..........But, if I need only one, I buy a box.  That way I have them for the next project.  I have a pretty good stock of 10-24 through 1/2-20 socket head screws in standard, flathead, and button head.  I rarely use fine thread, so those are normally purchased by only what I need for the job.  I am also using more metric, so that stock is increasing.  In hex head, I only buy grade 8, and the same in washers and nuts.  I also keep a pretty good stock of smaller machine screws 6-32 to 10-24.

As to why socket head screws, it's what you find in most machine assemblies and industrial stuff.  Besides, I think it looks more professional.   But that is just my opinion.


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## CluelessNewB (May 7, 2017)

I have a fairly good selection of 6-32, 8-32, 10-32, 10-24, 1/4-20 and 5/16-18 mostly stainless that I have accumulated from working on my boats over the years.
I have some smaller screws most of which has been salvaged from stuff 4-40, 2-56 etc,  and odds and ends of larger stuff up to about 5/8".   I do have a decent selection of metric screws and nuts running  from 4mm - 8mm, these are leftovers from one of my my Dad's businesses,  he imported some power equipment from Germany in the late 1960's and early 1970's with JLO engines.       I also have a rather large selection of wood screws, these also came from my Dad, I believe he purchased these as a large lot at an auction.


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## Silverbullet (May 7, 2017)

Bins and more bins , drawers too. All kinds and sizes from eye glass screws to over an inch . All lengths , types , and materials. Plus nuts washers and lock washers in several types. Grades up to eight . One thing I will not accept the need to wait for hardware to be shipped . I pride my self for quick turn around on jobs. In my opinion it's not right to hold up a job for $2.00 in bolts.


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## Ken from ontario (May 7, 2017)

You all reminded me to order some metric screws,just ordered  some  M3, M5, M6,of various lengths,they are handy to have when repairing  Chinese machines.


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## cmantunes (May 7, 2017)

Ken from ontario said:


> You must have some preference when choosing screw



Everything between M4 and M14, many different sizes and mostly socket head screws. Occasionally use M16 or more. Imperials I use on a case by case basis when I am absolutely unable to use metric.


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## GLCarlson (May 7, 2017)

Usethe right size for a given application. ALWAYS purchase at least a box (100 or more). In ten years, the answer to "what do you keep" is "all of them".

The only issue is storage.


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## savarin (May 7, 2017)

3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10mm various lengths, all stainless both cap screws and button heads with some c/sunk, I only buy inferial when required which is not very often.


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## Ken from ontario (May 7, 2017)

Alright,the reason I ask about the size/type of screws is a bit deeper , but let's keep it simple so I understand.you see I know many of you design and fabricate parts/ tools etc , so when you design some part from scratch , how do you determine what type of screw to use, or whether to use socket , button  or flat head  cap screws(or any other  type of screws), I can imagine how the length is determined but what formula do you use for the thickness and type of the screw? or how many screws, what the location ? corners ? center? both?
 I do understand bolt come in variety of strength, and are used based on the amount of stress they would be under but could you  use more weaker screws opposed to a few but more heavy duty  ones? i.e, 10 pcs  of 1/4"-20  opposed  to 4 X 3/8"-16?
I ask because right now I use what I have in stock but I'm a hobbyist, how do the pros choose their screws?


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## 4GSR (May 7, 2017)

Ken from ontario said:


> ......................
> I ask because right now I use what I have in stock but I'm a hobbyist, how do the pros choose their screws?


Most of them buy them by the box full or by the pound as they need them or as the job calls for.  The left overs go to the big bin to dig thru when you are looking for one or two of a given size.  Not many keep assortments of assorted sizes to have on hand.

I've made or bought assortment boxes for most sizes up to 5/8"  Anything bigger than that is bought as needed.  I do have left overs in sizes up to 1".  Flat heads, hex heads, I buy them as needed, even though I've built up a good stock of sizes of them over the years.


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## Bob Korves (May 7, 2017)

Ken from ontario said:


> Alright,the reason I ask about the size/type of screws is a bit deeper , but let's keep it simple so I understand.you see I know many of you design and fabricate parts/ tools etc , so when you design some part from scratch , how do you determine what type of screw to use, or whether to use socket , button  or flat head  cap screws(or any other  type of screws), I can imagine how the length is determined but what formula do you use for the thickness and type of the screw? or how many screws, what the location ? corners ? center? both?
> I do understand bolt come in variety of strength, and are used based on the amount of stress they would be under but could you  use more weaker screws opposed to a few but more heavy duty  ones? i.e, 10 pcs  of 1/4"-20  opposed  to 4 X 3/8"-16?
> I ask because right now I use what I have in stock but I'm a hobbyist, how do the pros choose their screws?


I tend to base my designs on what I have on hand.  If what I have does not make sense for the job, then I buy what I think is best for it.  I have lots of coffee cans full of sorted misc. fasteners, cutoffs, and other leftovers, so I can almost always get by with what I have.  I also buy lots of fasteners for cheap at yard, garage, estate, and other sales.  They are often about 10 pounds for a dollar, when you can find them, and no trip to the store or waiting for mail order...  Disclaimer, I am not a pro, not by a long shot.  I am a hobby machinist.


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## Ken from ontario (May 7, 2017)

4gsr said:


> Most of them buy them by the box full or by the pound as they need them or as the job calls for.  The left overs go to the big bin to dig thru when you are looking for one or two of a given size.  Not many keep assortments of assorted sizes to have on hand.
> 
> I've made or bought assortment boxes for most sizes up to 5/8"  Anything bigger than that is bought as needed.  I do have left overs in sizes up to 1".  Flat heads, hex heads, I buy them as needed, even though I've built up a good stock of sizes of them over the years.


Thanks Ken, thank you all for your comments so far.
I like the assortment boxes idea, the thing is, I don't have many screws left to finish any project and need to start a small collection of some screws, I also try my best to stay away from cheap screws that strip/snap under normal use so the assortment boxes available here may not be such good bargain, I have used the imported HoloKrome and have been happy with them so far but the no name brands, I'm not sure..


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## tertiaryjim (May 8, 2017)

I watch for any screws and bolts that can be had cheep. Not cheep stock but purchased on the cheep.
When I have to pay full price I will get extras if they are a very useful size or not expensive.
But I do live in a remote area and anything purchased locally is very expensive.
I use what I have on hand whenever possible but try to use a fastener appropriate for the job.


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## gr8legs (May 8, 2017)

I'm not a pro, I'm a software/firmware person who makes prototypes and limited run pre-production stuff. And this is not a list of what I use, it is a cautionary tale.

First of all and most importantly, DO NOT DO AS I DO!

For a long time whenever I needed hardware bits I'd buy a 100-piece box of whatever it was (6-32 x 0.5" PHP machine screws f''r instance) and ensconce it into its own little drawer. Sometimes the bulk of the screws or whatever was more than a drawer would hold so I put the remainder into a backup storage location.

Of course, after a while the little 'working' drawer emptied and I forgot that I had the backup remainder stashed away - and bought another box of whatever it was and repeated the process. So now I had two partial packages of excess hardware parts secreted away. And the process repeated. Again and again.

It worsened even more when I was at my hardware supplier's place and couldn't remember for sure what I had on hand and what I needed - and of course there was always something on sale or closeout - so the hardware assortment grew a bit more.

And worsened a bit more when I got 'orphan' screws, nuts and bolts. I didn't want to mix slotted and Phillips screws, so each got a drawer. And 'regular' hex nuts and Kep nuts.

And I also did the math and realized that 1,000 of a part at my supplier cost less than ten boxes of 100. So I started buying by the thousand.

Which wouldn't have been so bad if I had a system to remember what I had lots of and what I was almost out of. I didn't have a system. But I did have a lot of screws. And nuts. And washers. And lockwashers - internal, external and split. Plus the Kep Nuts. eek!

It is a terrible addiction. Do not go that way, yonder lurks hardware madness.

If you are starting out, buy a box of 100 of what you need, give it a logical home in a drawer and label the drawer. They are cheaper by the 100 and small stuff is pretty inexpensive and you will build up a useful supply. Keep related parts together - 6-32 with 6-32, 1/4"-20 with 1/4"-20. Resist the urge to allow opposites to attract. Put the remainder in a labeled container - bag, box, jar,  and make a list of what you have and where it is. Post the list on the wall. Pick a nice big spot to put your overflow parts and label it clearly. When you think you have run out of a part because the 'working' drawer is nearing empty - check your list and see if you bought extras - or just check your backup stock FIRST before buying more.

I wish I had done that 30 years ago. I would not now have multiple drawers of the same part scattered around my rather smallish shop area. When I get some spare time I am going to organize my nuts and bolts. Or maybe just go nuts - that seems easier at this point.

Stu.

Photos are some of my 'working' drawers, plus some 'spares' and some of the 'backup' stock. Yikes!


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## JimDawson (May 8, 2017)

Ken from ontario said:


> how do you determine what type of screw to use, or whether to use socket , button or flat head cap screws(or any other type of screws)



I use socket heads when I want to counterbore to have the head flush with the surface, many times for appearance, but sometimes for clearance.  Flat heads get used if flush heads are required for clearance or to just clean up the lines of the part and lateral location is needed.  Button heads get used for appearance or where a little larger head is needed for spreading out the load on the compressed surface, also work well for attaching sheet metal pieces (guarding for instance) to an assembly where you have extra large holes in the sheet metal for ease of installation.



Ken from ontario said:


> what formula do you use for the thickness and type of the screw?



I don't really try to engineer the loads in most cases.  Many times the screw diameter is dictated by existing mount holes in whatever you are attaching or attaching to.  Much of the determination is done just drawing on experience, and partly what you have on the shelf.  Just being around machinery for many years gives you a pretty good idea of what works and common engineering practices.

As far as screw positioning on an assembly, do you use 2, 4, 6 or more?  That is sometimes a tough question.  It's really a matter of partly appearance, and partly function.  Sometimes 2 would do, but you use 3 or 4 anyway because it looks better and more symmetrical.  For instance, if you have a square part that you are attaching, you would want a screw in each corner, just because.

I hope this kinda answers some of your questions.


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## bfd (May 8, 2017)

I have a hardware store 3 minutes away that has an excellent supply of bolts nuts and screws so I try not to stock any just buy what I need plus some extras I mostly buy stainless as things in my shop rust rapidly stainless doesn't rust. bill


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## cathead (May 8, 2017)

I have collected and saved hardware from disassembly of machinery and electronic equipment.  For small hardware I have labeled
bins for nuts, bolts, washers,  My larger bolt collection is less organized and is kept in several trays that one can paw
through to find the needed hardware.  I do keep washers and nuts in large jars so they are somewhat organized.  I have
other containers for sheet metal screws and Torx wood screws and lag screws.   Basically I know what I have and where
it is.  Occasionally I will have a specific need requiring a trip to the hardware store but not very often.  Some of my bolts are rusty.
It's amazing how well they clean up on a wire wheel(diamonds in the ruff).

View media item 94595
This is an old photo and the wire wheel now has a guard on it for my protection.


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## Franko (May 8, 2017)

I keep lots of 100 in plastic drawers and divided boxes of basic imperial sizes. 6-32 through 10-32 in both flat and pan Phillips head from short up to 1.5", purchasing longer ones as needed. Same for sheet metal screws. I have smaller assortments of stainless in the same sizes, usually purchased as needed with a few spares for the shop.

Plastic mixed bins hold allen heads in the same basic sizes — and the same for 1/4-20 5/8-18 and 3/8-16. In those sizes, if I need 20 or more for a project, I'll get a box of 100.

I started accumulating metric machine screws when I resumed working on motorcycles. I purchased a few set boxes of various metric sizes and head types.

If I'm working on something that already has metric, I use metric and try not to mix them with imperial.


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## Ken from ontario (May 8, 2017)

Thank you all for your comments, the purpose for starting this thread was to compare how I approach projects and the related fasteners to those of you who have been doing this longer and it looks like I'm not doing it any different than most of you, in fact in many ways it is similar to choosing fasteners for woodworking,I think Jim Dawson explained it best :
_


JimDawson said:



			I don't really try to engineer the loads in most cases.  Many times the screw diameter is dictated by existing mount holes in whatever you are attaching or attaching to.  Much of the determination is done just drawing on experience, and partly what you have on the shelf.  Just being around machinery for many years gives you a pretty good idea of what works and common engineering practices.
		
Click to expand...

_I somehow know what fasteners should or would work although I don't have the vast amount of experience as some of you but I do  alright  it seems, just needed to hear it from the rest .a couple of things I learned  that surprised me a little , one was the fact that most of you use metric fasteners almost as regularly as imperial , the other was the use of stainless steel fasteners seems to be common at least for some , I admit I never buy them because I never found them necessary , the black oxide  finish on these fasteners seem to do alright in my shop to avoid rust since (for me)that's  the main reasons to buy them  but I'm now going to stock up on some just  to have around ,they are more pleasing to the eye but not to your wallet.

Stu, very organized system you have, very impressive yet simple and functional. what you got there will last for 3 lifetimes  in my shop lol.


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## EmilioG (May 8, 2017)

I keep at least a few of almost every type and size of fastener imaginable.  Even if it's just to have a few samples for reference.
When I started building and repairing, I went through a crash course on fasteners.  There was so much to learn, including countersinking, grades,torque, material and tolerances, etc...  I had no idea there was so much to learn about fasteners.  Almost every time I went to replace a fastener, I didn't have the right one, so I started collecting screws, bolts, washers, nuts, ...in metric and imperial.  At least several of each.  I couldn't believe how much some fasteners cost.  I always found a good deal on Ebay or Msc.  Fastenal is too expensive.  BoltDepot will sell one or a thousand.

I quickly noticed the difference between cheap and a superior fasteners. My favs became Holo Krome, Unbrako, camcar and Spax.  Some fasteners on vintage tools and machines are difficult to source, so I keep whatever strange or rare one I find or remove from something.
I even have extra, Albrecht machine screws, which are proprietary to their chucks.  I don't have millions of screws, just several plastic bins with a wide assortment.


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## mcostello (May 8, 2017)

All of them.


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## RandyWilson (May 8, 2017)

I was blessed/cursed to have an early mentor that REALLY knew fastening hardware.  I agree with Emilio, except I stock very few fasteners; usually just left-overs. I prefer to let the design determine that hardware rather than compromising the design to work around the existing stock. Within reason, of course. I prefer metric, but for high stress parts I go to Mil spec (SAE ratings are a joke). This is a military town, so most anything I need is available just up the street. The problem is, the US military is STILL imperial.


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## David S (May 8, 2017)

Just about every threaded fastener that I have are all organized in this set of drawers.  The 0-80 and 1-72 are in small plastic zip locks in the 2-56 drawer.  I also have a 6 quart basket of extra large and weird fasteners.  During busy times in the shop I am using fasteners daily and can't stand searching through containers of mixed fasteners.



David


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## cathead (May 8, 2017)

If I spent all my time categorizing and sorting, that is all I would get done.  I prefer forward progress
so my slightly unorganized stuff can remain as is.  I know where to look if I need to find it.  Kudos to all you organized guys!
It just isn't me.  If I spent  a lot of  time looking for stuff I know is around somewhere I would tend to be more organized.  
I have several sheds and lots of "stuff" and I know what I have.  That's good enough for me...


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## Old junk (May 8, 2017)

I keep metric from 4mm upto 14mm imperial 1/4 to 1/2 I'm in auto repair as a living and hobby,also fix anything and everything so I also have numerous drawers and pails of fasteners of all kinds that come with 30 years of projects.i hate to stop in the middle of something to run out for something.but it happens.......always a nickel holding up a dollar


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## markba633csi (May 9, 2017)

I dislike certain sizes with a passion;  6-32 for example and 1/4-20.  Those two I try to avoid.  They strip, they shear off, more that other sizes in my experience.  And industry uses them everywhere.  Aack!  8-32 and 10-32 are fine.  1/4-28 I like too.  Metrics are all good.  I like fine threads in steel and coarse threads in aluminum.         Did you know an 8-36 is nearly identical to a metric 4mm?  Just a hair larger IIRC. 
I don't have a good system for storage, so I try not to keep too many fasteners on hand.  Life is too short to sort.  You dig?
Mark S.


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## NCjeeper (May 9, 2017)

I stock grade 5 and grade 8 hex head from 1/4 to 3/4 in lengths from 1" thru about 4".


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## Bob Korves (May 9, 2017)

markba633csi said:


> I dislike certain sizes with a passion; 6-32 for example and 1/4-20.


6-32 is the worst, it has a large thread percentage of the total diameter, a great recipe for snapping taps.


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## rzbill (May 9, 2017)

Ken from ontario said:


> Alright,the reason I ask about the size/type of screws is a bit deeper , but let's keep it simple so I understand.you see I know many of you design and fabricate parts/ tools etc , so when you design some part from scratch , how do you determine what type of screw to use, or whether to use socket , button  or flat head  cap screws(or any other  type of screws), I can imagine how the length is determined but what formula do you use for the thickness and type of the screw? or how many screws, what the location ? corners ? center? both?
> I do understand bolt come in variety of strength, and are used based on the amount of stress they would be under but could you  use more weaker screws opposed to a few but more heavy duty  ones? i.e, 10 pcs  of 1/4"-20  opposed  to 4 X 3/8"-16?
> I ask because right now I use what I have in stock but I'm a hobbyist, how do the pros choose their screws?



As a Mech and Aero Engineer, I would hazard a guess that only a small percentage of bolt patterns and bolt selections are actually engineered based on loads.Instead many are designed by "TLAR method" (meaning That Looks About Right).  I am including everything ever built in that statement. Certainly, there are cases that demand careful design such as pressure vessels and some places on aircraft but its a waste to spend a lot of effort to design a sheet metal cover attachment.  In order to get a complete understanding of bolted systems, there are a number of physics and materials calculations that need to be learned.  However, you may be able to find some books or reference material on the web with somewhat 'canned' answers for sample situations.


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## cathead (May 9, 2017)

markba633csi said:


> I dislike certain sizes with a passion;  6-32 for example and 1/4-20.  Those two I try to avoid.  They strip, they shear off, more that other sizes in my experience.  And industry uses them everywhere.  Aack!  8-32 and 10-32 are fine.  1/4-28 I like too.  Metrics are all good.  I like fine threads in steel and coarse threads in aluminum.         Did you know an 8-36 is nearly identical to a metric 4mm?  Just a hair larger IIRC.
> I don't have a good system for storage, so I try not to keep too many fasteners on hand.  Life is too short to sort.  You dig?
> Mark S.




Yes, Mark, I dig(mostly in my parts bin).  Not to be disagreeable but I kinda like 1/4 x 20.  On small screws and nuts, I usually
locate the bolt I want and then look in the nuts bin for a "fitting" nut.  If I want pairs or more of matching hardware, well, that takes
a little longer.  On the small bolts and nuts, I'm sure it is a mix of imperial and metric.  Sometimes a magnifying glass helps
on real small stuff or maybe even two pairs of 3.0 reading glasses for small parts or electronic circuit board soldering!  It's
also handy to sharpen tiny drill bits or look at the cutting edge on end mills or lathe tooling when fine tuning an edge.  
Yesterday, I was reefing on a bolt that holds on the front wheel on a riding lawn mower.  It turned out to be 5/16 x 18
and left hand thread. Is was on the left side of the mower.  How sinister is that?  It's on an older mower.  On something
new, the wheel is probably held on with a cheap springy washer like thing and covered up with a chrome plated plastic
pretty looking widgit.  That's where the disdain comes in for me.  What else is cheap on the machine? Probably everything!
One thing I don't like is when they make a casting and there is just bearly enough meat on the aluminum casting for the threads 
making it almost impossible to thread the hole to the next bigger size...Now, that's disdain, probably metric to boot!
Most of the world is metric but we in the states get to enjoy a mix of metric and imperial and have to lug around TWO sets
of toolage cuz you never know what you might need!  Gotta love Crescent wrenches and Vise Grips...


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## carlquib (May 9, 2017)

I have a lot of different fasteners, mostly imperial because most of the equipment I work on uses that system. I have bolt bins set up by size, each horizontal row is a given size then as you go across from right to left the fasteners increase in length by either 1/4" or half inch increments depending on size. Size ranges from 0-80 through 1 1/8". Various types of washers and nuts are on the right side. My biggest problem is having an employee grab several handfuls of something and then put away what is left over incorrectly. : SIGH: In the winter during our slow season someone usually gets to resort the bins. I also keep several fastener black books around, plus several catalogs, McMaster, fastenal, and Tacoma screw. It is very useful to occasionally thumb through these just so you know what is available.
My problem today is more and more metric fasteners, so I need to get set up for that, but a good selection from 4mm up to 25mm in all the different thread pitches is a lot of bolts.  

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


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## markba633csi (May 9, 2017)

What really bugs me is when fasteners are under specd.  Like when they use one size too small to save money.
Just like Cathead said: what else are they cheaping out on?  BTW the word for left in Italian is "Sinistro"
I like 1/4-20 more than I like 6-32.  I like 1/4-28 more than 1/4-20.
According to my Pocket Ref there were more than 15 different 1/4" thread pitches made.
They say you should throw out stuff if you haven't used it for a couple years. Heck I have fasteners from like 40 years ago that I still can't find an excuse to throw out, probably because I still find uses for em from time to time LOL
MS


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## RandyWilson (May 9, 2017)

"TLAR". I agree fully, with the caveat that you need to know what to look for.  Threaded sections of the fastener at the joint shear plane is one of my major peeves.  Material choice is another.  You could always tell the noobs at the race track. They were the ones up late trying to drill out broken off loctite'd grade 8 bolts they thought would make a dandy upgrade for the flywheel.


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## grantj (May 9, 2017)

Depends on what your projects will be.
In general, it would be worthwhile to buy a screw assortment of both imperial and metric just to have on hand. (Mostly for repairs.)

I'm in the US, but I use mostly metric stuff since that's what is used at work. (Our products ship primarily internationally). 
M3x0.5 is probably my most used screw, its a decent size/strength ratio for the size of projects I work on. I only go smaller if I'm forced to by available material thickness. The imperial equivalent would be 4-40.
I use M6x1.0 for the heavier stuff. M8 is about the biggest I've ever felt was needed. 

Plan things out though, its nice if you only need a few tools to get into something for a repair job.
Also if there is going to be adjustable feature(s), try to make it so they can all be adjusted using the same tool. 



rzbill said:


> As a Mech and Aero Engineer, I would hazard a guess that only a small percentage of bolt patterns and bolt selections are actually engineered based on loads.Instead many are designed by "TLAR method" (meaning That Looks About Right).  I am including everything ever built in that statement.


This is accurate. I haven't seen an review for a bolt pattern since college. A little over-kill on bolt size doesn't cost that much more and it never got anyone fired.


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## ddickey (May 9, 2017)

I only have access to Menards. Junk bolts. I bought a couple 3/8-24 for my tool holders and they the hex is metric size. That just seems wrong.


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## BGHansen (May 9, 2017)

I have socket head cap screws, set screws, flat head cap screws and button head cap screws in sizes from 4-40 up to 3/8 - 16.  Have a small selection of M3, M4, M5, M6, M8 and M10 cap screws and set screws also.  Also lots of grade 2 hardware store bolts in 1/4-20 up to 1/2-13.  Everything is actually organized, somewhat.  I use wall-hanger tubs from HF for the hardware store stuff, still need to label the bins.  The rest is in labeled bins in a couple of the multi-drawer plastic organizers.  Unfortunately, they're only sorted by thread, not length or head style so the drawers get dumped and sorted if I need something specific.  Have my over flow of 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" cap screws in 1-gallon Ziploc bags.

Bruce


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## Charles Spencer (May 9, 2017)

I use Allen cap screws if they are going to be adjusted or removed regularly, flat head screws where it needs to be flat, and cap screws otherwise, ideally.

I started by keeping various types of fasteners in coffee cans.  Boxes with extras were kept on the shelf and packages hung on a peg board.  Then I was lucky enough to find one of the metal drawer units made for that purpose.  Also, some smaller units with plastic drawers.  And a stack of plastic boxes with dividers.  It usually gets me close enough that I can find what I need fairly quickly.

If I need a few screws I go to Klem's, a local place.  They charge too much but they do usually have whatever I need.  If I need a bunch then I order from Albany County Fasteners online.

My favorite places to get machine screws and bolts are yard sales and the dump.  If they have some rust on them I clean them up in a mix of detergent motor oil and milling swarf in a rock tumbler.  A bolt sizer usually makes sorting them fairly easy.


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## Rockytime (May 9, 2017)

I agree with David S. I do not like looking for screws. I have 00-90 and up from when I was repairing model railroad engines. I have many small assorted screws for clock repair all sorted in plastic divided boxes. In hex head I have from 5-40 and up for building small engines. For clock case repair I also have a large selection of wood screws all sorted in individual divided plastic boxes. I also like to purchase in lots of 100 most purchases coming from eBay. I do have a problem purchasing slotted wood screws. Most nowadays they are phillip heads and antique clocks did not have phillip head screws so sometimes it is hard to keep things original when repairing cases.


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## markba633csi (May 9, 2017)

That's another fastener I dislike- slotted wood screws. Ugg.  Only tangle with 'em when I absolutely have to
Mark S.


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## David S (May 9, 2017)

markba633csi said:


> That's another fastener I dislike- slotted wood screws. Ugg.  Only tangle with 'em when I absolutely have to
> Mark S.



Certainly agree Mark.  However unfortunately I have many speciality fasteners that have slots.  I curse them and use them.

David


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## rzbill (May 9, 2017)

markba633csi said:


> According to my Pocket Ref there were more than 15 different 1/4" thread pitches made.



12-24 screws get pitched out of my shop as soon as they appear!



RandyWilson said:


> Threaded sections of the fastener at the joint shear plane is one of my major peeves.



Yep. But I wish that rule did not cause washers under every nut. Does on AN hardware anyway.



carlquib said:


> My biggest problem is having an employee grab several handfuls of something and then put away what is left over incorrectly. : SIGH:



Right. I get a nervous tic and want to strangle something (somebody??) when I find that in the bins.


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## Rockytime (May 9, 2017)

Slotted screws are a pain but when restoring something it is important to keep it original or it is not a restoration.


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## Bob Korves (May 9, 2017)

rzbill said:


> 12-24 screws get pitched out of my shop as soon as they appear!


Why?  They are needed to repair old stuff...


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## 4GSR (May 9, 2017)

rzbill said:


> 12-24 screws get pitched out of my shop as soon as they appear!.


I have a special place for 12-24 and 12-28 screws and it's not the trash can! They get stored in a plastic container and kept in a sacred place where I can find them when needed.  They are getting hard to find!  
And yes, Bob is right, if you do any machine repair, they are a lifesaver!  Now those Metric screws, well I would love to trash them, I find more and more times where I need one or two.  Ken


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## rzbill (May 10, 2017)

Why?
I have never owned anything that needed 12-24s or 12-28 for that matter.  Don't expect to.  I understand and agree with the restoration argument.  It just does not apply to me even though I do have some classic equipment.


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## RandyM (May 10, 2017)

Rockytime said:


> Slotted screws are a pain but when restoring something it is important to *keep it original or it is not a restoration*.



Rocky,

Don't confuse Originality with Restoration, they are two completely different things. If you replace a part on an assembly with an accurate duplicate the assembly is restored, but no longer original. Something can only be original if it has never been replaced. Something can be restored and contain replacement items, but it is no longer original. Now, you can replace parts on an assembly with another original part and maintain originality.


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## 4GSR (May 10, 2017)

rzbill said:


> Why?
> I have never owned anything that needed 12-24s or 12-28 for that matter.  Don't expect to.  I understand and agree with the restoration argument.  It just does not apply to me even though I do have some classic equipment.


When you run across them, send them to either me or Bob, we'll take them off your hands. That way you don't have to worry about them.


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## Bob Korves (May 10, 2017)

4gsr said:


> When you run across them, send them to either me or Bob, we'll take them off your hands. That way you don't have to worry about them.


I use them for other things as well, and I have several each taps and dies for them as well.  Yes, send them to me and I will not have to make them from bar stock!  8^)


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