# Brake pipe flaring tools



## NormBourne (Nov 28, 2013)

I bought a Double Brake Pipe Flaring tool, it's performance  leaves much to be desired.

The answer of course is to build my own, any ideas how to proceed guys.....?

Many thanks,

Norm.


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## DAN_IN_MN (Nov 28, 2013)

NormBourne said:


> I bought a Double Brake Pipe Flaring tool, *it's performance  leaves much to be desired.*
> 
> The answer of course is to build my own, any ideas how to proceed guys.....?
> 
> ...



What problems are you having with it?


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## Rbeckett (Nov 28, 2013)

A good quality double flaring tool is usually pretty spendy for a decent one.  I bought the complete system from MATCO that does single, double, springtight and bubble and the ste up was just about 250 dollars way back then.  Make absolutely sure you are doing it correctly because a loss of brake pressure while braking can lead to a catastrophic event.  The average master cylinder is applying about 3000 PSI to the brake fluid and a leak is a really bad thing to happen when the system is under pressure... Especially with a car equipped with ABS... Please be extremely carefull when you proceed.

Bob


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## pdentrem (Nov 28, 2013)

My bet is that the rack that holds the tube allows for the tube to slip. This is a common issue with the cheaper grade of tool. Second is the flare insert is either undersized with allows for it to cock and produce a poor malformed flare, or is rough and becomes hard to remove after the flare is formed. 
I and the rest of the mechanics at the garage I worked at, gave up on the cheap flare kits and long ago spent the money on quality. Whether Mactools, Snap-on etc, you do get what you pay for.
If the problem is the first item then you can file/grind some metal off the rack surface to allow them to closer more tightly, but you may get more distortion of the tube due to the reduced space around the tube.
The second problem is harder to fix, but with a lathe, new inserts can be made.
Pierre

BTW stainless tubing is even harder to manipulate than plain steel tube.


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## NormBourne (Nov 28, 2013)

DAN_IN_MN said:


> What problems are you having with it?



I am having a great deal of trouble in using the tool, in that I am having trouble in keeping it square, and consequently the resultant flare is deformed 8 times out of 10.


I am now confronted with the 3/16 former in which the pin is bent.....!!


In the manufacture of the tool, no consideration has been given in ensuring that the screwed, 
C-shaped clamp component,  sits square  against the pipe clamp, owing to the fact that the mating surfaces, have not been finished and are direct from the casting mould.


Further, the 3/16 former's  pin appears to be too small to suit the inner diameter of 3/16 tubing,
which tends to exacerbate the problem of deformation, and misalignment etc.


I would be interested in your comments/suggestions.

Admittedly, it was cheap at $30 but you expect it to perform nevertheless.

The USA supplier refuses to accept any responsibility as does the manufacturer.


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## NormBourne (Nov 28, 2013)

pdentrem said:


> My bet is that the rack that holds the tube allows for the tube to slip. This is a common issue with the cheaper grade of tool. Second is the flare insert is either undersized with allows for it to cock and produce a poor malformed flare, or is rough and becomes hard to remove after the flare is formed.
> I and the rest of the mechanics at the garage I worked at, gave up on the cheap flare kits and long ago spent the money on quality. Whether Mactools, Snap-on etc, you do get what you pay for.
> If the problem is the first item then you can file/grind some metal off the rack surface to allow them to closer more tightly, but you may get more distortion of the tube due to the reduced space around the tube.
> The second problem is harder to fix, but with a lathe, new inserts can be made.
> ...



There is absolutely no problem with the rack, there is no way the tube is slipping..!


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## pdentrem (Nov 28, 2013)

NormBourne said:


> I am having a great deal of trouble in using the tool, in that I am having trouble in keeping it square, and consequently the resultant flare is deformed 8 times out of 10.
> 
> 
> I am now confronted with the 3/16 former in which the pin is bent.....!!
> ...



Ouch, I have had the broken pin version. Sounds like some hand fitting will have to be done. PITA!

Can you clamp the C-clamp in a vise so that all the torque is applied only to the screw? This helps prevent some of the misalignment as the clamp shifts otherwise.
Pierre

- - - Updated - - -



NormBourne said:


> There is absolutely no problem with the rack, there is no way the tube is slipping..!




That is good. I see that it is the clamp and insert that is causing the issues.
Pierre


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## NormBourne (Jan 24, 2014)

Well guys, I had a go at building one from scratch, what a disaster..!! 

I have limited equipment so it had to be fabricated. Materials to hand, two bits of 20mm brass round silvered soldered to 20mm X12mm key steel were used, the bottom piece cut to accommodate the tube clamp etc.

Alas the silver solder gave way, I should have used steel round and welded. But welding for me is a problem, in that I have a Defibrillator in my chest which is sensitive to electromagnetic radiation. 

So I suppose I will have to bite the bullet and buy an upmarket tool.

Anyway guys, many thanks for your advice and interest.

Norm.


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## daveyscrap (Jan 24, 2014)

The best tool I have found is easy and cheap it is sold by all tool guys  it is a inline flaring tool  if you look up Matco tools it is part number dft161 it will give you a idea how it works. I have tried hydraulic types and manual flaring tools and they always leave a lot to be desired and here in road salt and rust country I replace brake lines at least 3 times a week on customers cars and trucks hope this helps ! Dave


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## Walltoddj (Jan 24, 2014)

This is one at Eastwood Tools about $250 and they just came out with a new set of dies.


http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

Todd


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## 70 chevelle (Jan 24, 2014)

Are you using a tubing cutter to cut the tube ?  If so you need to debur the inside of the tubing. Just for comparison cut the tubing with a band saw or hacksaw and you will see what the true inner diameter of the tubing is compared to the lip the tubing cutter leaves. The tubing cutter also work hardens the tubing making it much harder for a successful flare. Your best chance for clean flares everytime is using a bandsaw followed by a clean up with a fine file. Please do yourself and the person next to you on the road a favor and practice till you get it right. Also, not deburring the inside of tubing can cause a tear along the sealing surface that is very hard to see and cause seeping under pressure. Hope this helps.


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## NormBourne (Feb 9, 2014)

70 chevelle said:


> Are you using a tubing cutter to cut the tube ?  If so you need to debur the inside of the tubing. Just for comparison cut the tubing with a band saw or hacksaw and you will see what the true inner diameter of the tubing is compared to the lip the tubing cutter leaves. The tubing cutter also work hardens the tubing making it much harder for a successful flare. Your best chance for clean flares everytime is using a bandsaw followed by a clean up with a fine file. Please do yourself and the person next to you on the road a favor and practice till you get it right. Also, not deburring the inside of tubing can cause a tear along the sealing surface that is very hard to see and cause seeping under pressure. Hope this helps.



For goodness sake mate, please give me credit for the ability to use tools and above all the ability to be able to read.....!

Of course I de-bur and chamfer the end of the pipe before flaring, it is as I say, the quality of the tool as purchased that is the problem.....!

Norm.


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## 70 chevelle (Feb 9, 2014)

I'm not trying to offend your abilities. Just trying to help.


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## astjp2 (Feb 9, 2014)

NormBourne said:


> For goodness sake mate, please give me credit for the ability to use tools and above all the ability to be able to read.....!
> 
> Of course I de-bur and chamfer the end of the pipe before flaring, it is as I say, the quality of the tool as purchased that is the problem.....!
> 
> Norm.



I may have missed it, but what are you using for lube?  Also, brakes run about 1000 psi give or take...tim


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## NormBourne (Feb 10, 2014)

astjp2 said:


> I may have missed it, but what are you using for lube?  Also, brakes run about 1000 psi give or take...tim



If you are talking about lube used whilst flaring I use brake fluid, anything else could possibly contaminate the system...!


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## astjp2 (Feb 10, 2014)

Use a good oil and then wash out the oil with some acetone or MEK.  Soap and water if you are real worried.  Tim


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## NormBourne (Feb 10, 2014)

70 chevelle said:


> I'm not trying to offend your abilities. Just trying to help.



Fair enough mate, no offence taken,     Take care,

Norm.


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## "Mike" (Feb 10, 2014)

I flared a lot of brake tubing and have used some really low rent tools and good ones too.  Get a good one-it's worth it.  Mike.


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## NormBourne (Mar 9, 2015)

Ok lads,   This is the good oil.  I've just bought off EBay, a tool for $85-00 which is modelled on the Sykes pickavant unit, 

it's an absolute cracker, the only disadvantage is that it only copes with 3/16 pipe but it is compact, and fo r me, it's perfect in that my involvement is with 3/16 pipe only..!

On vehicle flares are no problem.

Norm.


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