# Drill Press Dolly - Need some ideas



## dlinderm (Feb 15, 2013)

Hi all-

So, I'm finding that my drill press is getting a little cramped in its current location, but the space if perfect for storing it.  I'm thinking about building a rolling platform for it, and need some thoughts.  Its not a terribly heavy DP, craftsman cast iron, about 6 feet tall.  The problem I see is that its going to be top heavy if i merely bolt it to a plywood that has casters mounted to it.  On the other hand, I don't have the space to double the footprint of the base.

Then i started to think about welding casters on the existing base, and have a tip-to-roll kind of setup, but i don't want to end up under this thing one day...

Any ideas?

Dave


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## pineyfolks (Feb 15, 2013)

Low profile and hard to tip.


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## TDHofstetter (Feb 20, 2013)

I LIKE that Oliver stand!

My shop a couple of places ago was a bit cramped, so I built a wooden rolling platform for my DP. I kept it low, but made it a little extra-wide to help keep it from falling over when it was moved... and it never felt unstable. I also helped things a bit by adding a lidded storage box above the DP's base - I kept all sorts of accessories (not all drill-related) in that box, which pushed the center of gravity quite a distance lower, making the DP more stable.

That Oliver makes for a nice LOW, WIDE rolling base; it wouldn't be hard to make one very much like it, using inline roller-skate wheels and angle iron. Bolt the DP right to it.


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## GK1918 (Feb 21, 2013)

Lets see If I can even explain this one.  I know what you want to do.  My case a different approach.
This is an attempt for a 3000lb mill.   I came upon a new box (free) of weight lifting weights I guess?
I chose 3) eight inch diameter with a one inch center.  The mill base already has four holes to lag to
the floor.  I tapped the four holes for one inch bolts and Im going over the top with some heavy
maybe I beam, with the cast iron wheels attached to that.  Then tighten the two bolts which should
lift the mill, I only want 1/4 " off the floor.  Now the rear will be just one wheel .  I picture not a caster
but straight and to turn with lets say a steering wheel.  Sometime when the weather gets good my
son starts on the new shop which we setteled on 15 x 35 added on the rear of this shop.  So the 
mills journy will be 50 feet into its new home.  Raised up just enough to roll. I remember way back
cars like that were called underslung suspension.  I can move it alright but the mill is 7' plus my
loader bucket is 5' plus the mill hanging, thats 12 feet which means I gotta take all the lights down,
my ceiling is 16 feet.


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## xalky (Feb 21, 2013)

dlinderm said:


> Hi all-
> 
> So, I'm finding that my drill press is getting a little cramped in its current location, but the space if perfect for storing it.  I'm thinking about building a rolling platform for it, and need some thoughts.  Its not a terribly heavy DP, craftsman cast iron, about 6 feet tall.  The problem I see is that its going to be top heavy if i merely bolt it to a plywood that has casters mounted to it.  On the other hand, I don't have the space to double the footprint of the base.
> 
> ...


I'm having the exact same issue. Mine is your standard 12spd belt driven, top heavy model too. What makes matters even worse is that the weight seems to be at the top rear area which makes it difficult to move around safely. Occasionally i need to slide it out to drill longer items. An overhead crane would work much better than wheels. I'll be watching this thread and pondering.


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## TDHofstetter (Feb 21, 2013)

GK1918... can't you start lifting one corner with a pinch bar, just enough to get it off the floor a quarter-inch or so? You can then walk it higher & higher till you can get some pipes under it. Once it's on pipes, you can move it anywhere by hand - no bucket loader needed.

That's how we moved my knee mill around when it arrived on the back of a (platform) tow truck... and how I've relocated it afterwards.


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## Taz (Feb 21, 2013)

It would be a but of a project, but...

You could mount some very small castors (maybe ball castors?), to a steel plate just undersized to your base interior.  4 large diameter vertical guide pins at the corners of the base (downward on the inside) with holes in the plate to match, and two horizontal rods front and back of the inside of the base, with an offset cam at each corner.  I bet you could cram all that inside, with the plate below the cam, to get it 1/4in off the ground.  That shouldn't leave you too much tipping room but give you enough to roll it on a hard surface.  Apart from the steel for the cams, and the lever to activate, I see less than $30 worth of materials there.  

Might be more trouble than you want to go through but it would sure be cool!  If its hard to visualize I can scratch out a drawing.


Chad


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## JohnAspinall (Feb 22, 2013)

*Cheap 'n' Dirty Drill Press Mobility*

Here's my solution to drill press mobility.  The drill press is attached/removed from the two "half-dollies" in two separate steps.
It takes advantage of what the original poster already pointed out - that the d.p. is rather top-heavy.




As you may be able to tell, this was done when all I had was woodworking equipment.  These days I would probably weld a more compact version,
but the design has been working for 15 years or so.


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## GK1918 (Feb 25, 2013)

TDHofstetter said:


> GK1918... can't you start lifting one corner with a pinch bar, just enough to get it off the floor a quarter-inch or so? You can then walk it higher & higher till you can get some pipes under it. Once it's on pipes, you can move it anywhere by hand - no bucket loader needed.
> 
> That's how we moved my knee mill around when it arrived on the back of a (platform) tow truck... and how I've relocated it afterwards.



Correct I will use pipes for its finale journy.  However we have to move it a good 55ft first then the
loader will walk it around the outside of the shop to the rear which my boys are building a 15x35
extention on the rear.  All machinery will reside there.  Way easier to heat I may even put  AC too.
Its just that a machine shop and a repair shop dont mix well.


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