# Clausing Model 100 mk3a (methinks)



## rogerrabbit

Hi All,
I know I haven't posted in a while (keep getting the reminder when I log in).. but here is a new lathe I picked up over the weekend.. I believe its a Clausing 100 mk3a (serial number plate on the tailstock was not there).. I checked a few of the other posts with pics and it looks identical except for the change gear cover.. mine has the power switch attached, looks original but who knows.

found on CL, actual unit was in the back of a motorcycle repair shop.. he said he bought it a few years ago but never did anything with it.

so far the issues are:
1. main gear (bull gear?) is missing teeth, been checking out the repair options in the forum.
2. the other gear (back gear?) is also missing teeth..
3. chuck is stuck.  This method seems to be the best bet:http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/how-remove-stuck-chuck-tutorial-165028/  (hope its ok to link other sites?)
4. jacobs chuck is also stuck, I will try to remove by taking the tailstock wheel off and try to punch it out from that end.

couple of questions (yes I am a newbie for machining/lathes)
1.  The lathe is running clockwise when viewed from the tailstock end.. this seems to be backwards from what i have seen on youtube videos.. i checked the motor, seems to be reversable (its  a 3/4 hp HF unit), but is there any reason why someone would hook it up backwards?
2.  the pics of similar lathes show a clutch lever.. i didnt see one (discovered this today, so I will look more when I get home).. the back gear seems to be working in its place??
3. The 2 really rusted pieces are a steady rest and I am not sure about the other.. follower rest? I want to research how to use them, just not sure what to look for.
4. The big wheel attachment, what is that called? 

Thanks in advance,
-- Roger





Front and back view



apron and stuck chuck


	

		
			
		

		
	
 only plate on the lathe



the broken gears (still runs though)


accessories.. this and a coffee can full.. will post pics soon.




rests and i dont know what..


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## PurpLev

sweet find... I recently started to really like clausing machines (I wonder why). the rusty parts are a follow rest-  and a taper attachment that connects to the bed+carriage for turning tapers- those are nice accessories to have.

the lathe should definitely be turning CCW during normal operation - it's probably that a previous owner connected the power cable in reverse - not a biggy - just swap the power cable to re-reverse it back to normal. depending on what this lathe was used for - it might have made more sense to run it in reverse (maybe it was setup for a specific job). I wouldn't think about it too much and just reverse the power cable back to normal though. 

not sure about the clutch. nor familiar with this model. maybe someone else can chime in


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## rogerrabbit

taper attachment, awesome...  so I will be able to make my own b &S #9 for the burke mill!


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## PurpLev

rogerrabbit said:


> taper attachment, awesome...  so I will be able to make my own b &S #9 for the burke mill!




UGH!  My bad.... didn't look closely enough - I think it's a follow rest... sorry.... is it about the same size as the steady rest just a tad bit smaller?


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## rogerrabbit

update: I got the jacobs chuck off..
looks like there is a hole where the clutch is supposed to go, but seems the whole mechanism is gone?

attached are some more pics of the mystery jig.. it has slots for 2 cutters, 1 on each rod (bottom one is visible in the pic).  if I pull out a retaining pin, then the mechanism pivots a bit.. some kind of boring bar perhaps?


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## Newmetalmark

Looks like an earlier version of an MK3, your (missing) shift handle looks like it was on the right; MK3a was moved to the left.
The best overview is on Tony's sitey-http://www.lathes.co.uk/clausing/index.html- , you should be able to narrow down what features you have there.
The mystery attachment looks like its for boring, does the capstan (spoked) wheel fit anywhere on it, or are there gears/a rack/screw drive in it/ on it?
It looks like you're missing a handle on the apron also, can't tell if that's a handle or a push button from the pics.
Judging from the way the drive is set up, your clutch may be MIA
This is a pic of my Model 110 MK3a (100 series) as I found it; it's (still) in storage right now waiting for a resto. It has a model 200 apron that was used on later models.
I have a manual that I got from Clausing for free, you can PM me with your e-mail and I'll send you a copy if you want


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## Newmetalmark

Hmmm, can't see the pic- I'll try again a little later.


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## rogerrabbit

yes, the wheel is off pic on the right, it attaches to a rack that moves the one of the cutters in/out (the upper one in the pic).

re: missing handle.. there is a push button, looks to be 3 position, if I push it all the way in then the wheel moves the cross slide, if all the way out then it moves the apron.  

thanks.


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## Newmetalmark

Think I got it now-


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## Newmetalmark

Sorry, clicked submit instead of preview-

Anyway 
 The attachment is almost definitely for repetitive(or any other) boring and turning then, pretty cool too. Since it pivots, you can cut tapers too.

The three positions of the button on the apron should be (1)crossslide and (2)apron movement, which you know, the third
"neutral" position would be when you use the half nuts to thread ( I think). Best way to check, while in neutral, is to set the quickchange gearbox and sliding gear to cut the coarsest thread possible and then engage the halfnuts while turning the headstock by hand and see if the carriage moves. if  it does, viola! it works.


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## rogerrabbit

Updates:
I got the lathe to spin CCW finally.. did the standard red/black wire switch (took 3 tries as I overthought it and ended up switching all 4 wires.. doh! ended up with it spinning CW as before).

I did finally get the chuck off after 2 weeks of messing with it.. the suggestion of making a clamp to hold the spindle didnt work at all.. the aluminum just ended scraping on the spindle (no harm to the spindle, but didnt work).. ended up taking a big honkin pliers and holding the spindle right in front of the bull gear.. There was a narrow place to clamp a plier and another big plier to grab the backing plate.. Would not recommend this unless you are absolutely desperate, though.

another problem I found was that the tailstock didnt tighten. turned out to be a missing groov pin holding the collet to the tailstock screw(?).. my solution was to find an appropriately sized bolt, tap the hole in the collet.  then I inserted the bolt and tightened so I could cut the bolt at the edge of the collet.  Cut just a little bit to mark the spot, then pulled out the bolt and cut the rest.. after that I cut a slot in the end so I could use a screwdriver to insert into the collet.. a little bit of filing after and everything seems to work.. 

thanks,
Roger


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## rock_breaker

There was a clutch assemly on the lathe, on mine (I inherited it from my Dad) it was replaced by a 3 step  "V" pulley on a jack-shaft with a 10 inch pulley powered by "V" belt from the motor. 

Since my Dad was an electrician I am unsure about the reversing switch being on the lathe when he got it used. My switch is excactly where yours is located.  

The hole in the gear cover allows you to lubricate lead screw bushing. Again my Dad put a piece of 1/4" copper tubing in the bushing hole and bent the tubing so the upper end protruded just above the gear cover. The shape is an offset of  about 3/8" pipe lenth is about 2-1/2" He kept a machine screw in the upper end of the tubing to prevent swarf from entering.

There may be a serial number in the ways on the operator side where your tail-stock is shown in the picture. 

The one thing I don't like is the small adjustment dials, now that I am  over 3/4 of a century old they are even harder to read. 

There is an oil reservoir of sorts in the carriage gear box with an outsde filler cup near the push/pull carriage feed/cross-feed lever  

The machine will do just about anything you ask of it, it just needs some TLC. 

Good luck and enjoy

Ray


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## rogerrabbit

thanks.. any chance of pics of the setup? I cant visualize it.

on another note: here are some pics of a set of drawers I made to hold the accessories: top one is a 2 inch drawer for measuring tools, the bottom is ~4.5 inch for other stuff. They are made from some pallet wood I had sitting around, not the best stuff in the world, but seems to work.


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## rock_breaker

Roger

I am not to handy with the pictures but will try to elaborate since I took my gear cover off to day.

The hole I am speaking of would be directly behind the switch and possibly up a couple of inches. On my machine the point to be oiled can be seen through the hole but directlly below it. The bushing is on the quick change gear box as opposed to the lead screw thread-- my mistake.

 Not knowing how well versed you are with lathes in general I would like to remind you of the 4 lubrication points in the spindle shaft area.  On my lathe each bearing on the spindle shaft has a phillips head screw to remove prior to lubrication. There is an oil cup on the back-gear shaft and a screw in the middle pulley flat that must be removed so oil can reach the bushings the pulley runs on.

The drawers are a good idea. You may find yourself putting in dividers at some point. I also have drawers under my lathe;  I forget to close them fully so I get to clean up swarf. I inherited an old metal above the counter-top kitchen  cabinet which I mounted above my lathe, it sure is handy for often used tools. 

The face of your carriage looks bare as compared to mine. Mine has the carriage movement wheel, the push/pull knob, a star shaped hand wheel (about 2 inches diameter) that activates each function when tightened, a lever to engage the half-nuts and a lever on the cross feed. 

My guess about the "big wheel attachment" may be a face plate that screws onto the spindle shaft. It may have a threaded hole probably 1-1/2 X 8 TPI 

I will see about getting some help on the pictures.

Have a good day.

Ray


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## rogerrabbit

Ironman said:


> Roger
> ...
> Not knowing how well versed you are with lathes in general I would like to remind you of the 4 lubrication points in the spindle shaft area.  On my lathe each bearing on the spindle shaft has a phillips head screw to remove prior to lubrication. There is an oil cup on the back-gear shaft and a screw in the middle pulley flat that must be removed so oil can reach the bushings the pulley runs on.
> 
> ...



Thanks Ray, I think I found 3 of them, 2 are on top of the spindle bearings, I put some 3-in-1 oil in them for now.  I see another one on the smallest pulley on the spindle (after scraping some dirt), dont see a screw on that one though.  is the oil cup on the frame, if so then I think I found that one too.


re: mystery big wheel attachment. I looked at it in detail again.. found a patent number on it.. sure enough, google search found it: http://www.datamp.org/patents/displayPatent.php?pn=2224531&id=42440 it is an internal groove cutter / keyway cutter. interesting description, be something to check out.'

thanks,
Roger


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## rock_breaker

I don't think the back-gears are oiled through the frame however it might do it. On my lathe there is a lever operated bracket that  holds the back gear eather in mesh with the gears on the spindle or swings them out of the way when the locking clamp on the bull gear is tightenend to turn the spindle at high speeds. The back-gears run on a shaft in that bracket. There might only be a hole in the area between the gears.  

That internal key cutter is a great attachment. It is a tool that is not frequently used but when you need it it is worth it's weight in gold. I just finished filing a keyway (the hard way) after drilling a hole in a pulley.  Thanks for bringing it to light.

Time to hit the sack, have a good one.

Ray


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## 34_40

So Roger Rabbit.. any updates?


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