# Where would I find a lathe nose protector



## astjp2 (Mar 22, 2019)

I am looking for a 2-1/4x8 nose protector.  Ebay prices are outrageous! I need it to remove the 5c collet adapter on my lathe before I get it stuck permanently.  Thanks Tim


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## mmcmdl (Mar 22, 2019)

Why not make one ?


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## Chuck K (Mar 22, 2019)

astjp2 said:


> I am looking for a 2-1/4x8 nose protector.  Ebay prices are outrageous! I need it to remove the 5c collet adapter on my lathe before I get it stuck permanently.  Thanks Tim


They aren't real hard to make.  I guess it's just a question of what your time is worth. I personally like making things like that rather than purchasing them.  As far as removing the adapter goes,  you can tap it out with a bar.  They usually have a relief on the back end so even if you dinged up the end of it a little it wouldn't hurt it.  You could put a brass end on the bar just in case.


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## Chuck K (Mar 22, 2019)

What he said...lol


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## darkzero (Mar 23, 2019)

I would make one too, pretty easy.... assuming you have a proper tool & your lathe is setup for threading.

Mr Pete posted a 2 part video on making one.












Oh, looks like he 3d printed one too. Had no idea he got a 3d printer.


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## astjp2 (Mar 23, 2019)

Yeah, I dont have the ability to internally thread, my lathe is not even up and running yet.  I am still in the process of getting the collet closer installed.  This lathe is going to be just used to make bushing and spacers from what I am expecting.  I did put on a QCTP but it only has one 3 jaw chuck, I have not found a 4 jaw yet and not sure if I need it with collets for now.  Maybe someday I can sell a kidney to get a good DRO...


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## darkzero (Mar 23, 2019)

In that case I was going to suggest getting a 2-1/4 x 8 nut & modify it. But in that size new they're like $40. Considering that, $50 for an original nose protector is not far off priced. Perhaps post a request in the "can you make something for me" section? 

Not sure what lathe you have....








						NOSE PIECE REMOVER FOR 5-C COLLETS ON A HEAVY 10 SOUTH BEND LATHE 2 1/4"-8  | eBay
					

<p>Used. MADE FROM SOLID ROUND 6061 ALUMINUM. THESE FIT THE HEAVY 10" SOUTH BEND LATHES AND OTHERS WITH THE 2 1/4-8 THREADED SPINDLE. THEY ARE USED TO TAKE OUT THE 5-C COLLET NOSE PIECE FROM THE SPINDLE.</p><p>May have some marks on out side surface from being used.</p>



					www.ebay.com
				












						NOSE PIECE REMOVER FOR 5-C COLLETS ON A HEAVY 10 SOUTH BEND LATHE 2 1/4"-8  | eBay
					

Used. MADE FROM SOLID ROUND 6061 ALUMINUM. THESE FIT THE HEAVY 10" SOUTH BEND LATHES AND OTHERS WITH THE 2 1/4-8 THREADED SPINDLE. THEY ARE USED TO TAKE OUT THE 5-C COLLET NOSE PIECE FROM THE SPINDLE. May have some marks on out side surface from being used.



					www.ebay.com
				












						BOSTAR  5C Collet Lathe Chuck Closer With Semi-finished Adp.2-1/4" x 8 Thread   | eBay
					

BOSTAR  5C  Collet Chuck With Semi-finished Back Plate 2-1/4" x 8 Thread Mounting. Can Use Any Size 5C Collet From 1/16 through 1-1/8". The mounting holes already drilled and tapped. Scroll and Pinion Design just like 3-Jaw Chuck, Operated With Chuck Kay.



					www.ebay.com
				




Could also find a used adapter or a dog plate like this & turn it down. Would be such a waste though.








						5 1/2" x 2 1/4" x 8" Dog Plate                               D-0473  | eBay
					

Make sure you note on BOL BEFORE the driver leaves.



					www.ebay.com


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## mmcmdl (Mar 23, 2019)

Slap a piece of PVC pipe on it until you get 'er up and running .


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## projectnut (Mar 23, 2019)

A nose protector isn't designed to aid in the removal of a collet adaptor.  As the name implies it's to protect the threads on the nose from damage.  This is the type of tool used to remove the adaptor.









						South Bend Lathe reproduction Knock out bar for collet removal  | eBay
					

This is an Alisam Engineering reproduction of the South Bend Lathe Co.'s knock out bar / knockout bar. Used for easy removal of collets within the spindle of your South bend, (or most any), lathe. The knurled handled, 18" steel bar has a SOFT BRASS end, (three sizes of the brass part to choose...



					www.ebay.com
				




You slide it through the spindle tube, butt it against the adaptor, then tap it lightly with a dead blow hammer.

  I made a similar one out of scraps of aluminum rod.  The ID of my spindle tube is slightly over 1 3/8" so I used a short piece of 1 3/8 rod with the end turned down to nest inside the adaptor.  The other end is bored and threaded for 1/2" rod (you can use a tap)..  I threaded a piece of 1/2" rod (you can use a die) then screwed the 2 pieces together.  It doesn't take much force to remove the adaptor from the spindle nose.  Just a light tap with a dead blow hammer.


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## CluelessNewB (Mar 23, 2019)

You can start with a plain nut.   That is what I did for my Logan with 1-1/2 8 thread (was about $6 a few years ago) 

Here is a 2-1/4  8 for $15.50 at McMaster Carr: 

https://www.mcmaster.com/90521a050


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## astjp2 (Mar 23, 2019)

CluelessNewB said:


> You can start with a plain nut.   That is what I did for my Logan with 1-1/2 8 thread (was about $6 a few years ago)
> 
> Here is a 2-1/4  8 for $15.50 at McMaster Carr:
> 
> https://www.mcmaster.com/90521a050


Will it fit in a collet?  oh and I dont have 220 power to the lathe yet.


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## CluelessNewB (Mar 23, 2019)

astjp2 said:


> Will it fit in a collet?  oh and I dont have 220 power to the lathe yet.



You don't need to put it in a collet.   Just thread it on the spindle and turn it right there in place.     

Sorry but you do need power!


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## benmychree (Mar 23, 2019)

I would disagree that the nose protector is there only to protect the threads (from what?)  If that were so, there would be little need for the spanner hole or slot on them.  I made one for my 9" Monarch and use it to remove the collet nose, a knockout bar, which I also made for it is used to knock out the dead center and it's taper sleeve, the small diameter nose first knocks out the center, then if desired, the larger diameter knocks out the sleeve.


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## benmychree (Mar 23, 2019)

For any lathe or dividing head that I may be liable to make spindle accessories, such as chuck backplates, face and driving plates, and the subject at hand, the "thread protector", or whatever, I always make a thread plug gage to exactly the same size as the spindle threads, verified by a 3 wire measurement or thread micrometer, when doing the threading, I use the gage to fit the threads to the degree of clearance desired.  Once made, It is ready for the next job.   Making plug gages does not need to take a lot of time, and adds much in the way of precision fit for threads that are not standard in the strict sense of the word, as in coarse and fine series.  In Machinery's Handbook there is tabular data of all the "special" thread series with pitch diameters, so the gage you make can be truly made to the standard.


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## projectnut (Mar 23, 2019)

The nose protector on both my lathes (Seneca Falls Star # 20 and Sheldon MW-56-P) will in no way aid in the removal of a collet adaptor.  The Sheldon uses 5C collets exclusively, while the Seneca Falls machine originally came with 2S collets and an adaptor similar to the one used for the 5C collets on the Sheldon.  In both cases the collet adaptor fits tightly in the spindle taper, and is further drawn in by tightening the collet drawbar against the collet. 

The Seneca Falls machine also has a MLA-21 (5C) collet chuck sold by Andy Lofquist at State College Central:
http://statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/MLA21.html

This collet chuck doesn't require an additional nose protector, or a tool to remove the collets

The nose protector is only there to keep debris from the spindle threads and protect them in the event of a crash.  The nose protector on the Sheldon also secures the L00 spindle nut and prevents it from rattling around and damaging the spindle threads when the collet adaptor is installed.

The nose protectors on both machines can be totally disengaged from the spindle threads and barely come in contact with the collet adaptor.  In no way will they provide enough force to disengage the adaptor from the spindle taper.  Both machines require a collet adaptor removal tool similar to the one I linked to in my previous post to disengage the adaptor from the spindle.


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## Chuck K (Mar 23, 2019)

. The nose protector on the Sheldon also secures the L00 spindle nut and prevents it from rattling around and damaging the spindle threads when the collet adaptor is installed.



I made a 5c adapter and draw tube for my Hendey.  I need to make an L00 nose protector like yours before I can use the collets.  Too many projects, too little time.


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## Bobby Bailey (Mar 23, 2019)

For a cheap, easy, non-marring collet knock out bar I used a somewhere near 3' length of pine closet rod. The kind you get at a lumber yard/home repair place to hang clothes on in the closet.
It works perfect on a Southbend heavy 10, just insert it and use like a slide hammer. One moderate tap with the left hand and catch the collet and or collet adapter in the right hand.
It stays leaned up against the cabinet.


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## Tozguy (Mar 24, 2019)

Not sure if this relates to your dilenma but I made a puller for the MT5 to MT3 sleeve that gets stuck in the spindle. I did not like to hammer out the sleeve with a long punch through the spindle bore. This puller will pop out the stuck sleeve without putting any stress on the spindle bearings.
It is made up from common materials available at most hardware stores. The length of broomstick was laying around the shop.


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## ThinWoodsman (Mar 24, 2019)

Bobby Bailey said:


> For a cheap, easy, non-marring collet knock out bar I used a somewhere near 3' length of pine closet rod. The kind you get at a lumber yard/home repair place to hang clothes on in the closet.
> It works perfect on a Southbend heavy 10, just insert it and use like a slide hammer. One moderate tap with the left hand and catch the collet and or collet adapter in the right hand.



Same. Well, mine is an oak dowel, I think 1 1/4". Might make a brass cap for the end, as there is a bit of rattle-room in the 1 3/8" spindle bore. Does its job though.


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## Tozguy (Mar 24, 2019)

Bobby Bailey said:


> One moderate tap with the left hand and catch the collet and or collet adapter in the right hand.



This is important, if you don't catch it it can do a job on the ways. It can really fly.


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## darkzero (Mar 24, 2019)

Bobby Bailey said:


> For a cheap, easy, non-marring collet knock out bar I used a somewhere near 3' length of pine closet rod. The kind you get at a lumber yard/home repair place to hang clothes on in the closet.
> It works perfect on a Southbend heavy 10, just insert it and use like a slide hammer. One moderate tap with the left hand and catch the collet and or collet adapter in the right hand.
> It stays leaned up against the cabinet.





ThinWoodsman said:


> Same. Well, mine is an oak dowel, I think 1 1/4". Might make a brass cap for the end, as there is a bit of rattle-room in the 1 3/8" spindle bore. Does its job though.



Good idea. I've been using a 3ft piece of aluminum round bar that I have laying around. I've been meaning to make me one out of a piece of mild steel rod or aluminum tubing & a brass slug for the tip as that's what I have on hand.

I just went a picked me me up a 1-1/4" oak dowel. My spindle bore is just over 1.5" & they had poplar in 1.5" but the oak seemed denser. I like the wood idea, much lighter, cheaper, & I'd rather save the metal for other projects. I think I'll leave one end flat & put a radius on the other end. Thanks!


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## ericc (Mar 25, 2019)

How hard do you plan to bang the spindle threads before you eventually find the correct thread protector?  If you are super careful, you might be able to get away with something quick and easy.  I made a thread gauge for my spindle to test some replacement threading gears.  I sprayed mold release on it and placed it in a temporary mold.  I then warmed everything up with a propane torch and stuffed some melted chips from an HDPE milk jug in.  When everything cooled, I unscrewed the finished thread protector.  It is quite strong, but it would not withstand a blow from a good sized hammer, or dropping the lathe on the spindle nose.  I don't plan to do this, however.


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## Jimsehr (Mar 25, 2019)

astjp2 said:


> I am looking for a 2-1/4x8 nose protector.  Ebay prices are outrageous! I need it to remove the 5c collet adapter on my lathe before I get it stuck permanently.  Thanks Tim


Zoro has one for about 21 bucks


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## PMartin (Mar 25, 2019)

On my 10 inch Logan I used a piece of brass that was large enough to tap the adapter out. It was a short piece about 3 inches long. I turned one end down a bit and then threaded it so it would thread into the drawbar. When I am ready to remove the adapter I remove the collet and pull out the drawbar. Then I thread the brass piece into the drawbar and slide it into the spindle. A little tap with my left hand is all it takes to knock the adapter out of the spindle.  For the thread protector I just made my own. It was the first thing I ever made with internal threads but I had a good teacher looking over my shoulder too.


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## astjp2 (Mar 28, 2019)

Jimsehr said:


> Zoro has one for about 21 bucks


Link? I looked and didnt find it under lathe noze, lathe protector, lathe 2-1/4


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## Jimsehr (Mar 28, 2019)

FMW fasteners has a 2 1/4 8 nut for $11.97. Grainger has the nut for $16,43. 
Zoro has nut for $21 bucks,
Put nut on spindle and turn od and you have your nose protector. 
Jimsehr


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