# Good milling vise rec needed



## cmv (Aug 13, 2013)

Need a recommendation for a good milling vise.  I have a used but nice  shape Kurt D675 but it's just simply too large for my table.  I can  mount it, but on a mill the size of a G3102 I lose way too much Y  travel.  The back of the vise hits the column before I can get the tool  over the work a lot of times.  I can mount it sideways for some things  & do that whenever possible.

I also have the cheapie milling  vise that came with the machine that's a good size for it, but it  behaves like a cheap import vise & really lifts the work as it  clamps.  Setups take forever.

Mine is a different brand, but exact same thing as this.  My table is slightly larger at 6 5/8 x 29:



I  really like the Kurt & want to find something that works every bit  as well, but smaller.  I don't think Kurt makes one, but _someone_  has to.  I'm all for cheaping out on tooling, but not for a vise - not  worth saving a few bucks on something I have to fight with nonstop.  I  sit work on parallels, tighten vise, give a whack with a deadblow,  tighten a touch more & I'm ready to go with the Kurt.  A dial  indicator shows it flat all the way across.  It's literally 15 min of  tinkering to get to that same point with the cheapie vise.  The Kurt  also HOLDS the work solidly.  With the cheapie vise, the parallel  against the movable jaw will work lose at some point - enough that it  can freely slide out.   

What are some good brands to look for?


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## Ray C (Aug 13, 2013)

I'm very happy with this vise from Precision Matthews.  It's not a "CNC" vise but, it's very well made.  Most folks laugh at units with swivel attachments but, this one is dead-on and I leave it in place at all times.  I also use the swivel quite a bit and really like the feature.  The rear jaw and jaw support block are dead-on parallel with the bed.  The sides are, as you can see, rough cast.  Also, with any vise, it's usually not a good idea to tram off the sliding part of the jaw -that's asking for trouble.   As for CNC vises, they are indeed a good idea but, my procedure is to put a parallel or square etc in the jaws and tram off that.  -No excuses -that's the gold standard that I've learned to use and trust.

Anyhow, here's a write-up of the vise.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/16529-Precision-Matthews-PM45-Tram-and-a-New-Vise

BTW:  For the table you have, a 4" vise is probably the way to to.  My table is about the same size and use 4" vises.

Ray


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## DMS (Aug 13, 2013)

I have a 5" Glacern, and am very pleased with it. I believe they also make a 4". The 5" is just the right size (IMHO) for my Bridgeport clone, and I can still lift it without damaging important hardware (like my back).


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## Smudgemo (Aug 13, 2013)

I've got a 4" Glacern vise on my benchtop mill that I'm very happy with.  You might want a larger version for your mill, but the quality seems to be pretty nice.


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## george wilson (Aug 14, 2013)

You should get a lighter vise for that machine. The heavy 6" vise is too large,as yoiu mention. It is last too heavy for that smaller table,and will cause wear of the sliding surfaces and their mates just from excessive weight. A 4" vise would be better.


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## RWL (Aug 14, 2013)

I have a 5" Van Norman milling vise with a swivel base I'd be interested in swapping.  It's about half the size of my 6" Kurt clone.
If interested, we could exchange photos and dimensions via email.
geolane at ptd dot net


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## PurpLev (Aug 15, 2013)

I also have a 4" Glacern (on my bench mill 6x18 ) and it is a fantastic vise -very solid, and machining is great on it. I think that or maximum a 5" would fit your work envelope just great.


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## cmv (Aug 15, 2013)

This?

http://www.glacern.com/gsv_440


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## PurpLev (Aug 15, 2013)

cmv said:


> This?
> 
> http://www.glacern.com/gsv_440




yes here is sizing reference on my SX3 to give you a visual aid in terms of proportion:


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