# Model question



## Baithog (Feb 13, 2014)

What is the basic differences between the 9A and 9C. Is there a 9B? There is a working 9C down near Tampa for $600. There isn't much tooling and the guy sounds a bit cranky in the ad. No quick change gear box. Can I add one? 

It's just me to move it. Is it a really dumb idea to separate the head from the bed, pull the saddle and such so that I can get it in the exploder? I'd probably want to take it apart and inspect, clean, and lube it any way.

I also saw an ad #10 tonight that needed the lead screw replaced. Are them things available?

Larry


----------



## CoopVA (Feb 13, 2014)

The 9A has a gearbox screw cutter and power cross feed.The 9B has screw cutter changewheels and power cross feed.  The 9C has screw cutter changewheels and manual cross feed.  Not sure if you can change a C into an A easily.  It will be hard by your self and you can remove the head and tail stock.  Get the South Bend Bible, How to Run a Lathe, it will help you to disassemble and re assemble properly...  $600 may be a good price if it's in decent condition.  I just recently purchased the complete wick kit and disassembly/reassembly guide from fleabay for my 9A, It's a good deal.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## CoopVA (Feb 13, 2014)

Here's the link to the "restore kit"...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rebuild-Man...842?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2306c81f32


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## fastback (Feb 13, 2014)

Just keep in mind that if you up grade a 9B with a gear box you have a 9A in effect.   If you install a gear box on a 9C you have a modified 9C.  The difference between an A and B is the gear box.  The C does not have a clutch so all of the power feed on the longitudinal is through the split nut so that places a lot of wear on the nut.  


If you think you might upgrade to a gear box then go with the model B or keep looking for a A.  The C is a fine machine, but it has its limitations.


Jut my opinion,


Paul


----------



## Pacer (Feb 13, 2014)

Hold out for an A model... The C is a perfectly nice lathe, but its limitations (fooling with change gears & no power feed) can become frustrating pretty quickly. And $600 is definitely out of the 'gloat' price range.


----------



## Baithog (Feb 13, 2014)

Paul, you gave me a chuckle this morning. The model C may have limitations, but I'm upgrading from a 7X12. I have been fighting that dastardly little thing for half a dozen years. Even a 'C' in poor condition is probably a huge step up. 

I do want a gear box. I don't change my feeds as often as I should because of the manual gears. I'm not sure I need cross feed. I've never had or used a machine with operating cross feed. Is it really that useful?

I looked up 'How To Run A Lathe'. Is the book specific for South Bend, like my 'Lathe Operation' book is for the Atlas that I once owned?

Larry


----------



## CoopVA (Feb 13, 2014)

It's a South Bend book.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## fastback (Feb 13, 2014)

Larry, in my opinion, having a power cross feed is a necessary option. I was not trying to put down the model C, it is a fine machine. I prefer a lathe that has a clutch drive because it take's a lot of wear off the half nuts and the lead screw.  The half nut uses the thread of the lead screw to move the carriage while the clutch mechanism uses the key slot in the lead screw to drive the carriage.  An old machine that uses the half nuts solely for the longitudinal feed will more than likely have more wear on the lead screw.   

If your facing off a large diameter piece of material you'll get a better job and finish with a power cross feed.

If it were me I would be looking for a model B at a minimum, but that's just me. 

Good luck on your search.

Paul


----------



## thenrie (Feb 13, 2014)

Baithog said:


> Paul, you gave me a chuckle this morning. The model C may have limitations, but I'm upgrading from a 7X12. I have been fighting that dastardly little thing for half a dozen years. Even a 'C' in poor condition is probably a huge step up.
> 
> I do want a gear box. I don't change my feeds as often as I should because of the manual gears. I'm not sure I need cross feed. I've never had or used a machine with operating cross feed. Is it really that useful?
> 
> ...



I have read both books. While they are both specific to their name brand lathes, both cover several lathe models. The South Bend book contains a lot more general information about the operation of lathes, such as threading and tool grinding, than the Atlas book. Both are good books, but the South Bend book is better. Look for the newer editions. They started printing it somewhere around 1917 I think. The one I read was a 1956 edition, I believe. I just bought one like it off eBay, to add to my books. Waiting for it to arrive.


----------



## wa5cab (Feb 14, 2014)

If you have an Atlas, get the Atlas book.  If you have a South Bend, get the South Bend book.  Both contain about the same basic information but all of the photos showing actual machines or accessories are of those built by the company that wrote the book (naturally).  And try to get a book printed within say zero to 10 years after your machine was made.  

Robert D.


----------



## martik777 (Feb 14, 2014)

Baithog said:


> I do want a gear box. I don't change my feeds as often as I should because of the manual gears. I'm not sure I need cross feed. I've never had or used a machine with operating cross feed. Is it really that useful?
> Larry



If you add a hand crank to the end of the lead screw, you can achieve "near power feed" finishes without using the gear train. Better yet, add an electric variable speed motor.


----------



## NEL957 (Feb 14, 2014)

martik777 said:


> If you add a hand crank to the end of the lead screw,* you can achieve "near power feed" finishes without using the gear train*. Better yet, add an electric variable speed motor.




There is no way to achieve a great finish with hand feed. There is no way to keep the same pressure in the tool all the way. Like the guy said the upgrade to the "C" model was a great improvement. I have a "A" model 10K. would like to have a larger machine. We all have that bigger in mind and like he said it was the first thing he has seen in a while. YES it can be converted to an "A" or a "B" model, but it is going to cost you a small fortune. South Bend parts are a prize to some sellers. $600.00 is not a good deal on a "C" model, try to talk them down unless it comes with accessories. Sometimes the accessory can make the difference. 
Nelson Collar


----------



## Baithog (Feb 14, 2014)

NEL957 said:


> There is no way to achieve a great finish with hand feed. There is no way to keep the same pressure in the tool all the way. Like the guy said the upgrade to the "C" model was a great improvement. I have a "A" model 10K. would like to have a larger machine. We all have that bigger in mind and like he said it was the first thing he has seen in a while. YES it can be converted to an "A" or a "B" model, but it is going to cost you a small fortune. South Bend parts are a prize to some sellers. $600.00 is not a good deal on a "C" model, try to talk them down unless it comes with accessories. Sometimes the accessory can make the difference.
> Nelson Collar



Nelson, I see you are over near Okahumpka. I'm a little farther West in Inverness. One of the 'C's is on Ebay from a guy in Lutz. In reading his ads for other auctions, I get the feeling that he does not appreciate lower offers. There was an 'A' that was rebuilt in Lakeland, but it looks like I missed it. When I have money there never seems to be what I want, and when I'm short, there's deals everywhere. I'm starting a bathroom renovation tomorrow, so machine hunting will have to wait for a while. When I do get back to looking, I'll go for an 'A' or a 'B' and fit a gear box to it.

There seems to be a number of members in the central Florida area. Do you guys ever socialize. I could sure us some help with how to do things right. I'm totally self taught. Sometimes when I'd be in the model shop making something, I'd look up and find the machine shop guys watching me. They'd say things like, "I never saw anybody do it that way." I could get things made, and get them quicker than we could get a work order through to the shop, but it was never pretty.
--->
As far as the book goes, The "How To Run a Lathe" book available on Amazon has sections on the 13" machines and up, but the TOC doesn't list the 9 and 10 specifically. I will probably get it anyway. You can never have to much information. I found anther book on refurbishing 9's and 10's - "A Guide to Renovating the South Bend Lathe 9"" It seems to be more of what I will need to start out.

Larry


----------

