# New dial for Atlas 10F



## Grinderman (Mar 22, 2021)

The dials on this lathe have annoyed me from day one, from the microscopic graduations to the set screw in the middle of the zero hash mark. You can buy new dials from Tallgrass tools but they're kind of pricey. I figured I have two hands and a lathe, I can make one. I watched   a few videos and pretty much followed mrpetes plan of action.
I used a 100 tooth saw blade for the index and a 60 degree brazed carbide threading tool for the scribe. I have a heavy duty Starrett magnetic base that I used with half an old 6" scale for the pawl.
I made a jig like mrpetes for stamping the numbers. My number set is 1/8" and they are 5/16" square. After boring the hole for the dial, I cut a slot that was 7/16" wide centered on the hole. I then had to make (2) 1/16" shims and (1) 1/8" shim the length of the stamps. The zero gets a 1/16" shim on either side and the double numbers get the 1/8" shim on one side, then the other which gives you a nice distance between numbers. I made a practice dial because different numbers require different force to produce a good impression. Stamping flat numbers on a curved surface is an interesting process. I made all the parts on the lathe as I don't have a mill yet.
It was a lot of work making everything but it was worth it because you use the dials every time you use the lathe and my eyes probably won't be improving as I get older.
One other thing is there is no need for a fancy 3 position carriage stop for scribing the hash marks. I did all the tens, then the fives and then the ones. It's kind of a sanity check also. If you end up where you started you know the nothing has moved and you can move on to the next step. The dials are both 1/2" thick, 1.700 diameter. The inner dial has a 1" hole bored in it with a 6-32 set screw. The outer dial has 3/8" hole bored with a 8-32 counterbored hole for the knurled knob. The hash marks are .250 long for the tens, .150 for the fives and .100 for the ones.


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## Janderso (Mar 22, 2021)

Absolutely beautiful work.
I've often pondered making up an indexing ring.
Using a 100 tooth saw blade is brilliant.
Well done sir.


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## Grinderman (Mar 22, 2021)

Not my idea on the saw blade but it worked really well, total cost for the project was probably $15.


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## bob the builder (Mar 22, 2021)

Very creative!  I had the same problem on my South Bend mini 9.  The original dial was only 13/16" diameter & the graduations were too close for my old eyes to see well.  I made a new dial that is 3" diameter, printed out new graduations & glued the paper to the dial.  It worked well but I had to replace the paper every 10 yrs.  What a hassle, right?  Once I added a 4th axis to my CNC, I was able to cut the graduations on the dial & it's MUCH nicer.  I'll post a link to the video once I meet the new member requirements.


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## bob the builder (Mar 22, 2021)

OK, got my 3 posts in.  Here's a link to the video mentioned in the above post:


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## Manual Mac (Mar 22, 2021)

Very skilled job Grinderman.
Good idea with the sawblade.
I read an article many yrs ago where the author used change gears & a detent on his SB9 like you did with the sawblade for simple indexing.


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## DavidR8 (Mar 22, 2021)

That’s is really outstanding work!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mattthemuppet2 (Mar 22, 2021)

I agree, beautiful work!


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## jcp (Mar 22, 2021)

Very nice dials....especially the stamping. What did you use to blacken the markings?


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## Grinderman (Mar 22, 2021)

Thanks for the kind words guys. I had some Rust-oleum appliance epoxy spray paint on the shelf. I've found this to be a pretty durable paint in the past. I sprayed the whole dial and let it dry overnight, then mounted the dial on a shaft and sanded off the paint with some 600 paper wet. We'll see how it holds up over time. I did scribe the lines a little deep (.015) to allow for a little sanding.


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## Tinkertoy1941 (Mar 22, 2021)

How do we save this post for future reference?


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## WesPete66 (Mar 23, 2021)

Tinkertoy1941 said:


> How do we save this post for future reference?


You could click on the "Watch" button to tag this conversation.  Then later, click on the "Watched" button at the top of the page to find it amongst your watched topics.


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## kcoffield (Mar 23, 2021)

Nice crisp details. Well done. Think that's the second time I've seen the saw blade indexing method.....first was with a 200t blade.....very resourceful.

Best,
Kelly


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## mickri (Mar 23, 2021)

I am planning to make a dial for the tailstock on my lathe which I will need to have 100 segments.  When I made a micrometer reamer stop I used Sketchup to divide a circle into 25 segments.  Printed this out and used a plastic lid with a nail in the center to hold it.  This got inserted into the spider on the lathe spindle.  I used a dial indicator on a magnetic base as a pointer.  Crude but works.  I can divide a circle into however many segments I might need with Sketchup.  I made the lines different lengths so it is easy to know how long to scribe each line.  




Here the 25, 50 & 100 segment drawings from Sketchup.


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## wa5cab (Mar 23, 2021)

I have no recollection as to his Ebay User ID but there was once someone selling a retrofit-able tailstock dial similar to what you are talking about.  It only took a few minutes to install and has been on my 3996 for at least five years and probably more..


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## Grinderman (Apr 6, 2021)

While I was in a dial making mood I thought I would make another one for the compound. I have an aftermarket steel compound because my stock cast iron one cracked. I had to make a new back plate with recessed bolts because of the size of the dial. These were easily the best mods I've done for my lathe, so nice to read the dials without magnification.


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## Janderso (Apr 6, 2021)

Grinderman said:


> While I was in a dial making mood I thought I would make another one for the compound. I have an aftermarket steel compound because my stock cast iron one cracked. I had to make a new back plate with recessed bolts because of the size of the dial. These were easily the best mods I've done for my lathe, so nice to read the dials without magnification.


That is just so cool!!


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## chuckwrench (Dec 31, 2021)

I am definitely going to have to make this one of my projects as my old eyes are struggling to see the stock graduations on my 10F. Great work by the way.


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## Grinderman (Dec 31, 2021)

You won't regret time spent on this mod. Easily one of the best improvements I've done to my lathe. The Rust-oleum appliance epoxy black paint is holding up really well for darkening the graduations.


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## pdentrem (Dec 31, 2021)

I did the same a few years ago. It is documented in a post about making a new top slide for the Atlas. Made things a lot easier!
Pierre


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## wa5cab (Jan 2, 2022)

The final versions of the Atlas and Craftsman 12" lathes had larger dials on the cross feed and compound Feed screws.  It is possible to retrofit them to the older machines but the dials are not the only parts that have to be changed.


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## jwmay (Jan 2, 2022)

Grinderman said:


> I have an aftermarket steel compound


I know I'm very late to the party here, but would you mind posting a couple more pictures of your steel compound and tell us a little about it? My compound is brazed, and I'm  going to make or buy a replacement as well.


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## Grinderman (Jan 2, 2022)

My original compound cracked at the tee slot and I've seen a few others do the same so I decided to go to the aftermarket steel version. They aren't  exactly cheap but I won't ever be replacing it again. It was purchased from Joel at mymachineshop. I think I paid $175 but I see they are $189 now. You use your existing gib and screws. I added the larger dial and end plate to mine but the stock components bolt right up. I also added a lock in place of one of the gib screws along with a couple of oil holes on top for the screw. It's really a solid piece, no regrets buying it.


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