# Fun Floating Drill Press Vise



## Janderso

I watched Mr. Pete's series on this very handy tool he made.
I'm going to get this one done pretty quick. I need it.
I used the 7X12 Jet horizontal band saw in the vertical position for the first time to cut the approx. 13 degree bevel for the jaws.
I am going to use 9/16" 18 tpi instead of 1/2" ready rod. My version is a bit longer than his.
The 1/2" low carbon rod and the ready rod and tap should be in today from McMaster. I should make good progress this weekend. It's suppose to be a stormy weekend.
I have a heated shop.
Can you think of a better weekend?


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## Latinrascalrg1

Thats a pretty niffty looking Vise.   I sure could use something like that for my drill press! 
With all the different types and styles as well as the different names and categories for a vise I do however have  2 questions about the style you made......You call yours a "Floating" vise, what does that mean? And what about this type of vise is considered the "Floating" part?
Thanks


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## Cadillac

The whole vise floats on the table and the long rod that aligns the two jaws "not shown in the pictures"is to be put against the vertical column of drill press to counter the vice and part from being thrown across the room when the drill bites into the part.


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## Janderso

This is a different style but it pivots inwards/outwards and swings to where you need it. Then you lock it down at the corner hold down for the drilling/tapping operation.
The beauty of these is that they are so quick and easy. In the High Schools they would be considered a safety vise.


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## Bob Korves

They are copies of this one:








						Wahlstrom Float Lock Drill Press Vises
					

Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.




					www.penntoolco.com
				




which are highly regarded by many.  They are also quite pricey.  I have never seen one in person, but they are highly touted.


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## Janderso

Just for grins and giggles I checked them out on Ebay. The original 1950's AMF auction "Buy Now" price was $195 if I recall.
The ad I saw on Mr. Pete's video showed the hand crank version for $9.95. In 1955 that was pricey no?
He said the High School had the slip fit style. = More money.


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## f350ca

Was at a yard sale one time, didn't realize what they were called but a bench top drill press had one on it. Bought the press and vice for I think $50. They're incredibly handy.


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## Janderso

You got the good one. Much quicker to clamp the part.
I don't know why I decided to go with the 9/16 fine thread. I'll be cranking til Sunday


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## Cooter Brown

Janderso said:


> Just for grins and giggles I checked them out on Ebay. The original 1950's AMF auction "Buy Now" price was $195 if I recall.
> The ad I saw on Mr. Pete's video showed the hand crank version for $9.95. In 1955 that was pricey no?
> He said the High School had the slip fit style. = More money.



You could get $100 worth of stuff in 1955 with $10..... lol


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## f350ca

This one doesn't have the fast movement, the thread is pretty fine on this one too.

Greg


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## Janderso

f350ca said:


> This one doesn't have the fast movement, the thread is pretty fine on this one too.
> 
> Greg


Oh, I saw the single round stock and assumed it slid to a desired point and the thread lever would make the last bit of torque.
That unit is a different beast, yet similar.


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## f350ca

Similar but different, think that ring on the other one you posted disengages the nut to let the jaw slide.

Greg


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## Hawkeye

I made mine with a 9/16" hex shaft. I can use a hand crank, wrench or slip a socket into a drill or driver to move as fast or slowly as I want.

You're going to love it. Mine hasn't left the drill press since I made it.


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## Janderso

So far so good. It’s raining and windy, love it,
This is the first time I made and used a form tool for the radius. Came out great.
I’m going to cut the taper and mill the corresponding piece to this part.


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## pdentrem

If you use a nut on the end of the all thread, you could use a power driver to quickly open and close the vice. Use a wrench for the final tighting.


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## Illinoyance

f350ca said:


> Was at a yard sale one time, didn't realize what they were called but a bench top drill press had one on it. Bought the press and vice for I think $50. They're incredibly handy.
> View attachment 307306


I have a shop made fise similar to that.  I purchased it from a retired toolmaker for little more than beer money.  I bought it 55 years ago.


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## Janderso

pdentrem said:


> If you use a nut on the end of the all thread, you could use a power driver to quickly open and close the vice. Use a wrench for the final tighting.



Oh now you tell me!


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## Bob Korves

Nice looking part, Jeff!


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## Janderso

I’m done for today.


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## Janderso

Bob Korves said:


> Nice looking part, Jeff!


Thanks Bob, the 5/8 end mill I used was very dull. It got the job done though.
This project has stretched me a bit, I love every minute of it.


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## Jubil

Looks good to me. Great work.
Thought about building one myself, but I guess I should get the drill press first, don't you think?

Chuck


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## Janderso

Build it, and it will come.


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## Janderso

Almost done.
Need to make the clamping device for the table, drill and pin the 1/2” rod at both ends, sand, debur etc.
This was a rainy weekend project. I’m having a blast.
Off to do some Xmas shopping with my bride.


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## Janderso

A bit more work, I had to peen the roll pins. A bit too loose. I am not concerned about the Finish, it’s a drill press vise.
It’s gonna slide on the table with swarf and oil.
It locks up nice and seems to operate very smooth. I am glad I chose fine thread (9/16 - 18 tpi).
Clamp is next.


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## Janderso

There is a challenge to the clamp or base lock.
According to Mr. Pete's video, when the vise is clamped by the table lock, it puts downward pressure on the floating vise.
The height and angle is pretty important.
I'm trying to come up with a plan for using my surface grinder to put a slight angle on the bottom piece to force downward pressure.
Those of you familiar with this vise know what I mean.
I found this Tom Lipton pic, it shows a different style vise but also shows the clamp at the back right corner.


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## pdentrem

You could mill a hollowed area between the two ends of the clamp block and have the inboard end a few thousand shorter to make it pull the vise down to the table. I also use feeler gauge strips to set the draft I need on carbon molds for our continuous caster. Naturally the carbon is not magnetic, so I use steel blocks to hold it in position on the SG table with the gauge strip at exit end to grind in the taper.
Pierre


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## Janderso

Mr. Pete drilled then cut in the band the block in two.
I’m thinking of using two pieces of stock, clamp them together on the mill and putting a 1 degree angle against one jaw?
Drilling the 1/2” hole then surface grinding off a bit in one of the centers to get the clamping teeter affect.
The height of the hole to the table is a bit fussy.


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## Janderso

Got it done.
Works great. Mr. Pete was talking about the downward pressure when the pivot block is tightened.
I put a .012” feeler gauge under one the bottom piece and ran it through the surface grinder. It turned out very well.
You need a teeter totter affect between the two blocks for clamping, I took .010 off the top block.
I will use this all the time.
The comparison between the two, one showing a scalloped affect. I dressed the wheel, what a difference!


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