# Another VFD Question -Fluxmaster 50



## Richard White (richardsrelics) (Oct 23, 2018)

I know the answer to this one, as I got the same error... On 2 separate and completely different VFD's.   Going out on a limb but guessing you have the belt set for the highest speed per the instructions?  That would be the lowest option vertically on your pulley setup.  Try one step higher, and see what happens..


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## Janderso (Oct 23, 2018)

I'll take a look, Thanks


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## Briney Eye (Oct 23, 2018)

Are you putting the output of the VFD through the drum switch to the motor?  Just checking, because the VFD must be wired directly to the motor.


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## Janderso (Oct 23, 2018)

The output from the VFD is going directly to the motor. 
I'll have to look at the wiring as to how the switch is wired.
Keep thinking, that's the stuff.
Thanks


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## TheArsonSmith (Oct 23, 2018)

I got that when I hooked up my bridgeport 2hp motor, the error was i think something to do with Over Current A???? and increasing the decel time fixed it.  I think mine is now set to like 15 seconds.

edit: guess i didn't finish your entire post, have you tried increasing both accel and decel time?


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## Z2V (Oct 23, 2018)

If I were in your shoes I would try increasing Acceleration time as @TheArsonSmith mentioned


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## Briney Eye (Oct 23, 2018)

What's the model number of your FM50?  Is it an FM50-101-C rated for 1hp, running on 110VAC single phase, or a 201-OC running from 220VAC single phase?  Have you verified that the nameplate values from the motor have been set correctly in the VFD?


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## Janderso (Oct 23, 2018)

It's an FM-50 but there are different sub-models. I have the one rated up to 3 HP I believe.
Regarding the decel time, I'll try it.
Thanks guys!!


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## mksj (Oct 23, 2018)

I would set F18 to 150%, change F5 to 5 which is used for high torque startup. I am not sure that an inline or clamp style current meter will show an accurate reading with a PWM signal, nor will it capture the short term current. As others have noted makes sure the motor is directly wired to the VFD, that the VFD input power (assume single phase) is connected to terminals L1 and L2. Also check the input voltage is correct (120 vs. 240), so you might indicate the model number and maybe some pictures of the connections. I assume the drum switch is connected to the low voltage VFD inputs, you may want to replace it as the contacts are not made for low current/voltage signals used on the inputs.

Would be helpful to see the motor nameplate/ratings, it maybe that the VFD is at the limit of it's output current or some of the components (buss capacitors) may have degraded and not able to provide full current.


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## Janderso (Oct 23, 2018)

Z2V said:


> If I were in your shoes I would try increasing Acceleration time as @TheArsonSmith mentioned





Briney Eye said:


> What's the model number of your FM50?  Is it an FM50-101-C rated for 1hp, running on 110VAC single phase, or a 201-OC running from 220VAC single phase?  Have you verified that the nameplate values from the motor have been set correctly in the VFD?



Increasing the accel time, more than 5 seconds?
I have the accel and decel at 5 seconds. I may have a conflict with the coast and stated decel time. I'll play with those commands.
I think this problem is a simple one.


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## Janderso (Oct 23, 2018)

mksj said:


> I would set F18 to 150%, change F5 to 5 which is used for high torque startup. I am not sure that an inline or clamp style current meter will show an accurate reading with a PWM signal, nor will it capture the short term current. As others have noted makes sure the motor is directly wired to the VFD, that the VFD input power (assume single phase) is connected to terminals L1 and L2. Also check the input voltage is correct (120 vs. 240), so you might indicate the model number and maybe some pictures of the connections. I assume the drum switch is connected to the low voltage VFD inputs, you may want to replace it as the contacts are not made for low current/voltage signals used on the inputs.



OK, I'll try all of it.
Let's hope.
THANK YOU!!!!!


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## Janderso (Oct 23, 2018)

Here are f ew pics of the wiring.
I do see the drum switch is on the 12v set up.
The red yellow black wires go to the hz or speed control. The blue green white wires go to the forward reverse drum switch.
I guess I could change the function keys to use the vfd to power up the mill. Forward only though.


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## Janderso (Oct 23, 2018)

Mr. MKSJ, we may have a winner.
I bypassed the drum switch. It works! Every time!
You may be on to something with the low voltage drum switch.
If I need to run in reverse, I just hit function key dial up to F04 and change command direction. Back gears is the only time I would use it=not that often.
Thank you all!!
MKSJ, I owe you one dood.


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## mksj (Oct 24, 2018)

Sounds good. I did notice what appears to be a white neutral wire attached to L3/N terminal, this is not used on the 240VAC input single phase model. You can very easily put a small box on the mill head to house a speed pot and a direction switch and if desired an E-Stop (breaks the 12V to the run F/R). Below is a 3 way direction switch, you would use the two NO switch blocks for 2 wire input (F/R) control (F03 = 0), they also sell some inexpensive ones on eBay. External speed pot resistance is rather vague in the manual, you can use a 5K or 10K linear potentiometer 1W or 2W, not really critical as to the value and wattage. I typically use better quality wire wound or plastic film type, and/or mill spec. pots. Cheaper ones can fail and also cause the speed to bounce around because of poor contact of the wiper. I often use the ETI, Spectrol or Clarostat pots, example below of a 1 turn and also a 3 turn that works well.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-Claros...ometer-10K-ohm-2-watts-1-4-shaft/122052157454
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-ETI-MW22B-3-5K-5-1W-3-Turn-Wirewound-Potentiometers/201057249723

Switch GCX1320-22   https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...a-_Non-Illuminated/Non-Illuminated/GCX1320-22
Legend E22NS50  https://www.automationdirect.com/ad..._Pushbutton_Accessories/Legend_Plates/E22NS50


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## Richard White (richardsrelics) (Oct 24, 2018)

Now what you will find is the keypad on the VFD controller will fail if you use your mill with any frequency....I have replaced mine at work twice.. But as a toolmaker I use my mill a bunch at work... at home, not so much.  The key pad still works, it is the plastic covering that fails, and the little button behind it also breaks. I "invented" a workaround.. Someday I might post a picture..


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## Janderso (Oct 24, 2018)

Wouldn’t it be easier to replace the drum switch?
What drum switch/voltage should I look for?
MKJS, you overestimate my electrical abilities. It may be easy to you, to me it would not go well.
Richard, I see what you mean about the eventual VFD control failing.


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## Cadillac (Oct 24, 2018)

A switch similar to this


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## Janderso (Oct 24, 2018)

Awesome.


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## Briney Eye (Oct 24, 2018)

Janderso said:


> Wouldn’t it be easier to replace the drum switch?
> What drum switch/voltage should I look for?
> MKJS, you overestimate my electrical abilities. It may be easy to you, to me it would not go well.
> Richard, I see what you mean about the eventual VFD control failing.



Alpinetech (Taiwan) makes high-quality 22mm switches, and you can get them from Amazon.  I used them on my little mill with a Fuji VFD (illuminated power switch, three-position FWD-OFF-REV, and ESTOP):


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## mksj (Oct 24, 2018)

See attached diagram for the connections to the speed pot and a 3 way switch. Use the existing wires and connect as shown, check the wire color coding at the VFD and the switch end. About $30-40 in parts, they do sell these with a housing but about 3X the price and needs to be connected differently (not worth the $$ in my book). https://www.wolfautomation.com/products/panel-shop/pushbutton-enclosure-kit-4-button-assembled-11887


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## Technical Ted (Oct 24, 2018)

Those switches above are nice. I just used a simple double throw, single pole toggle switch.

Ted


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## markba633csi (Oct 24, 2018)

It's possible your drum switch wiring was picking up interference, but anyhow those big old switches are not ideal for low voltage/low current use, they can have high contact resistance which can give squirrelly results


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## Janderso (Oct 25, 2018)

Well I am thrilled we found it.
I used it last night. Turned it on and off half a dozen times.
No problem.


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