# New/old lathe motor swap options



## GarageGuy (Apr 15, 2014)

I just bought a second Logan Lathe last week.  This one is a Model 820, and has a 220v 3ph 3/4hp motor.  The lathe has forward and reverse, which is one of the primary reasons I bought it.  Here is my question:  Can I replace the motor with a 115v single phase 1hp motor?  The drum switch should still allow for reversing the motor since most AC motors are reversible, correct?

I have one 220v 50a outlet in my garage, and my air compressor, 2 welders, and powder coat oven all need it.  I'm constantly plugging and unplugging machines into that one outlet.  It would make my life easier if this lathe used 115v like my other Logan does.  I don't need variable speeds.  My old lathe does just fine with the exceptions of reverse and quick change gears.

Thank you for your input and ideas,

GG


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## CluelessNewB (Apr 15, 2014)

Most but not all single phase motors are reversible.  You probably could use that reversing switch.  

Or you could go with a VFD and use the 3 phase motor you have.  The TECO JNEV 101-H1 VFD is 115V input 220 3 phase out, it's good for up to 4.2 amps, plenty for that motor.  It would add variable speed which the single phase motor wouldn't have.  You could probably use the reversing switch with the VFD but it would get wired to the low voltage control inputs of the VFD NOT between the motor and the VFD!

Since the Logan 820 has a threaded spindle, be careful with reverse!    

Here is one place that has the Teco JNEV 101-H for $131 + shipping.  

http://dealerselectric.com/item.asp?cID=0&PID=4705

I have a Teco VFD using the original 3 phase motor on my 820.


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## rdhem2 (Apr 16, 2014)

The CluelessNewBe is just full of good ideas.  Stole all my thunder.  Just don't know why you didn't just reverse the original lathe, unless it was the reason to the wife why you *NEEDED* a second lathe!  Then, clever move.


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## GarageGuy (Apr 16, 2014)

What I really wanted was a machine with a quick change gear box.  Doing manual feeds because you're turning a piece down to thread, and don't want to change gears every 15 minutes sucks.  You're right, I could have probably bought a drum switch and reversed the motor on my other Logan.  The price was right on the "new" one though.  That's my story, and I'm s-s-s-sticking to it!  :whistle:

GG


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## Wireaddict (Apr 17, 2014)

Just make sure that the drum switch contacts are rated at 125% of the motor full load current.


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## stevecmo (Apr 17, 2014)

I agree with Clueless.  Unless you have a single phase motor sitting around, you'll probably spend as much or more for a new motor as you will for the VFD set up.  The VFD will give you the variable speed plus can give soft start/stop which may be beneficial if you are going to run in reverse with the threaded spindle.

Steve


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## LEEQ (Apr 17, 2014)

With the dealers electric page I got my teco jnev for what every one else was charging and a 3 phase 1hp motor was included in the price! What a bargain. I would go with the 220v input. If you can wire up motors you can add a 220v breaker, space permitting. You could also wire more outlets onto the circuit and use only one at a time, though a 50amp breaker wouldn't do much for your lathe. Just some thoughts. Either way, 110 or 220, that is a great solution and a great bargain website!


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## GarageGuy (Apr 21, 2014)

*Re: Update*

I mounted the new motor in the lathe today, and I'm in the process of wiring the drum switch.  The first try didn't work.  I did a Google search on "wiring a Baldor electric motor to a Furnas drum switch", and got results on another machine shop site.  When I wired it up the way it was shown, no damage, but no joy either.  It is wired for low voltage (115), and the Furnas drum switch is a Style R 1143.  Here is what I have:







This is how it is wired now:

Drum terminals
1 - 2
3 - 4
5 - 6
as you face the front of the switch.

Switch terminal #1 to motor lead 5 (start winding)
Switch terminal #2 to motor leads 2, 4, and neutral (white) L2
Switch terminal #3 empty
Switch terminal #4 to motor lead 8 (start winding)
Switch terminal #5 to motor leads 1, 3
Switch terminal #6 to power in (black) L1

This motor has (6) wires numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 8.  Some Baldors have a wire 9, but this one doesn't and I'm not sure what the difference is.  The wiring diagram I used showed the 9 wire going to my empty switch terminal #3. 

Can anyone explain how to wire this correctly with forward and reverse?  Thank you!

GG


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## Halligan142 (Apr 21, 2014)

Could you post or draw out the switch contacts in the three switch positions.  Should be on the inside cover of the switch.


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## GarageGuy (Apr 21, 2014)

Here are the internal connections of the drum switch:




Thank you!

GG


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## Halligan142 (Apr 22, 2014)

Here you go.


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## GarageGuy (Apr 22, 2014)

Thank you, I'll give it a try right away!

GG


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## GarageGuy (Apr 22, 2014)

OK, here is how it worked:

Off - the motor hummed, but didn't turn when I plugged in the cord.

Forward - The motor ran forward when I had the switch on forward, then plugged in the cord.

Reverse - The motor ran in reverse when I had the switch in reverse, then plugged the cord in.

When I put the switch in forward, then plugged it in it runs forward, then I switched to off and the motor continued to run forward.  Then I switched to reverse (still on the fly), and nothing changed, it still ran forward.  No bad sounds, or anything.

I jumpered L1 on the top left and lower left terminals.  There is no wire at all going to the lower right terminal.

Better than my last configuration, but something is still not quite right.

GG


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## Halligan142 (Apr 22, 2014)

You need the power to be coming in on the lower right terminal then a jumper from the lower left to upper left. You're basically using the bottom set of terminals as a switch and the other 4 do your switching.  By putting power directly to the upper left terminal that bottom set of contacts is basically jumped out and you have power to the motor all the time.  Also motors like this are not instantly reversible.  You have to let them slow down at least until you here the click and drag of the centrifical switch closing before you switch it to reverse.  It's the start winding that gives the motor the kick in each direction.


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## GarageGuy (Apr 22, 2014)

I jumpered the bottom right terminal to L1, and still the same result as above.  At this time, terminals 1, 5, and 6 on the drum switch have L1 connected.  In the off position, I still get a hum from the motor when I plug it in.  It doesn't rotate in either direction, just hums.  When placed in either the forward or reverse positions, *then* plugged in, the motor rotates the correct direction, but will not stop when the switch is moved to the off position.

I've been looking around on line, and was curious.  This switch originally controlled a 3 phase 220v motor, and now I'm asking it to switch a single phase 115v motor.  I've seen a number of different drum switch internal connection configurations out there.  Is it possible that this is just the wrong switch for this task?  Just wondering.  Thanks!

GG


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## Halligan142 (Apr 22, 2014)

Just to clarify you should have L1 (power from plug) hooked up only to the lower right contact of the switch.  It should go nowhere else.  The jumper from the lower left contact to the upper left contact is a separate wire between just those two terminals and should not be hooked into L1 at any point.  Hope that helps.  Basically those bottom contacts are functioning just like a regular light switch breaking power to the main winding.  If all three terminals (1,5,6) are hooked directly together to L1 that switch gets jumped out and you have power to your main winding all the time.  As long as those bottom two contacts break when in the off position, which they should, then you're ok.


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## GarageGuy (Apr 22, 2014)

OK, I did do that wrong.  I connected it to #1, then jumpered it to #5 and #6.  I'll go change it and give it another try.  Thanks!

GG


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## GarageGuy (Apr 22, 2014)

WORKS PERFECTLY NOW!  Thank you for your help Halligan!  It was operator error, like usual.  Once I moved L1 to the lower right terminal, all was right with the world.

GG


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## Halligan142 (Apr 22, 2014)

:allgood: Glad you got it running and glad I could help.


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## Xnerd (Aug 11, 2016)

Oh good grief I think this is going to help me I have the same switch and a new Leeson motor
I just uploaded the wiring diagram can anyone tell me if the there's much of a difference it doesn't seem so. It's up for the 5 and 8 being flip flop


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## Xnerd (Aug 12, 2016)

My problem is I have P1 and P2 that are throwing me off I also T2 so I kinda don't know what to do from here it seems like a very similar setup to the Baldor motor that the guys got up above except for I would have to include P1 at the bottom yeah right terminal? And pm top right?


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