# Found me a nice Jet JVM-836-3



## Chip (Oct 18, 2014)

Look what followed me home...

Made in Taiwan, not too big, not too small, appears to have been used on aluminum exclusively. A used 3/4 knee mill within my start up budget. I'm happy.

Just need to decide on a suitable VFD, add some basic tooling, plug her in, and go!


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## Andre (Oct 19, 2014)

Looks good! Jet mills are a B'port clone but every bit as good from what I've heard. Have fun and be safe unloading it.


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## Chip (Oct 19, 2014)

I used an engine hoist and a pallet jack and got it unloaded without incident, but it took a lot of head scratching and was a royal pain in the butt. Pretty nervous about it the whole way.


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## dave2176 (Oct 19, 2014)

That looks real nice. I have a few Jet woodworking tools. I think they are all top notch machines.
Dave


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## nightowl499 (Oct 19, 2014)

great lookin machine  christmas comes early sometimes


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## Andre (Oct 19, 2014)

Glad you got it down safely, really glad, but that's too much for an engine hoist. No matter how many tons it says on the boom, if one of those bottom casters goes, your whole machine is going down. Move machinery in steps, head/ram/turret, knee/table asbly, main column.

Interesting Y axis DRO slide, it looks round.


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## JimDawson (Oct 19, 2014)

That's a pretty impressive lift.  I have a new respect for a HF engine hoist, that's about 2300# hanging on there.  I guess one of these days I'll have to see what one of them will really take before it fails.

Nice looking mill, glad you got it home safely.


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## zmotorsports (Oct 19, 2014)

Congrats.  Nice looking mill.


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## Chip (Oct 19, 2014)

That's the shot of it just after I pulled the trailer out from underneath. I then positioned the pallet jack between the legs of the hoist and lowered it as slooooooowly as possible. once on the pallet jack I was able to move it around relatively easy. You're right, that's a wise suggestion about taking it apart, but I don't think I have what it takes yet to fully disassemble a knee mill.

According to the manual the JVM-836 is 1.5HP and _only_ weighs 1500lbs.

I believe it is a Newall glass scale DRO. Still works though. Also has a working Mitutoyo Quill DRO add-on.

Right now I have a new X-powerfeed on order along with an R8 collet set and a clamp set.

Any suggestions on the ideal VFD to use?


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## sdunt (Oct 20, 2014)

I have a teco FM-50 on my 1.5 HP RF-30. Love it.. the manuals are not the clearest things. So I blogged the WHOLE setup with programming here: http://monarch14.blogspot.com/2014/03/3-phase-power-in-home-shop.html




Chip said:


> Any suggestions on the ideal VFD to use?


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## coolidge (Oct 20, 2014)

That mill looks in mint condition congrats!


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## Chip (Oct 20, 2014)

sdunt said:


> I have a teco FM-50 on my 1.5 HP RF-30. Love it.. the manuals are not the clearest things. So I blogged the WHOLE setup with programming here: http://monarch14.blogspot.com/2014/03/3-phase-power-in-home-shop.html



That should help a lot.



coolidge said:


> That mill looks in mint condition congrats!



I wouldn't go that far, but it's reasonably close.

The table could use some surface cleanup in my opinion. I saw a utube video where a guy used a stone to clean an old bridgeport up and knock down any high spots. Does anyone know if that is a legit method?


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## coolidge (Oct 20, 2014)

Chip said:


> That should help a lot.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



If you are talking rust get over to Harbor Freight and pick up a product called Evaporust its amazing. It will remove the rust without harming anything else, won't harm paint, plastic, any other type of metal, doesn't contain any acids, petroleum's, or harsh chemicals, its so mild you can pour it down the sink after its used up. Guys use this stuff to refurbish old machinery from the early 1900's all the time. For parts that are too large to dunk in a tub of this they just wet towels with it and cover it with plastic so it doesn't dry out.


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## Andre (Oct 20, 2014)

Chip said:


> According to the manual the JVM-836 is 1.5HP and _only_ weighs 1500lbs.



That can't be right, my smaller M head BP weighs around 1800#. Yours weighs probably 2200-2500#


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## JimDawson (Oct 20, 2014)

Andre said:


> That can't be right, my smaller M head BP weighs around 1800#. Yours weighs probably 2200-2500#



Lighter weight castings.  This is a smaller machine than a full size BP

http://content.jettools.com/assets/manuals/690036_man_EN.pdf

Page 3, about mid page

A 9x42 full size BP clone weighs about 2250.


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## tmarks11 (Oct 20, 2014)

nice score.  All the extras included really sweeten the deal.  

But that picture of the lift with the engine hoist scares the daylights out of me. I don't think HF version of "safety factor" (1.0?  0.95?) is quite the same as what the US considers a "safety factor" (2.0) for overhead rigging and handling equipment.


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## Chip (Oct 20, 2014)

Turns out FactoryMation has a remote warehouse in town. Had to pay sales tax, but I now have a Teco 7300CV ready to go. )


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## Andre (Oct 20, 2014)

JimDawson said:


> Lighter weight castings.  This is a smaller machine than a full size BP
> 
> http://content.jettools.com/assets/manuals/690036_man_EN.pdf
> 
> ...



Thank you for the correction. On a first look it seemed like a larger machine than it was. 

A funny story, a friends BP is sitting on some chips or something, I can rock it back and forth on the floor a little! Nothing to worry about safety wise but it was kinda funny.


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## lens42 (Oct 21, 2014)

I have the Enco version of that machine. They are a very cute alternative if you don't have room for a BP. The only negative is the fairly small Z range (under 14").

For VFD, I put a Hitachi WJ200 on mine. Works a treat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Rbeckett (Oct 21, 2014)

I just cant imagine a machine in the pristine condition your is in.  That is a once in a lifetime finf for what you got.  Even if it smaller than a bridgy or lighter you would never get one in great or pristine condition so that you could just plug it in and go to it.  So I think you did extremely well and you should be glad you spent the money once instead of twice over time if you ever chose to  rebuild a worn machine.  It isn't like they are short term projects when you open the can of worms it is hiding.   So get that puppy ready and fire 'er up.  make a couple of quick and easy projects and post up your pics.  We are all waiting to see how smooth you say it really is,

Bob


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## lens42 (Oct 21, 2014)

I've seen three of these 8x32 mini BP clones over the years and they were all in pretty nice shape. I think the story is that these were too small for pro shops and were mostly purchased by HSMs with money. Hence many are well cared for.


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## Chip (Oct 23, 2014)

Thanks for all the kind words. Things were going so smooth on the install that something was bound to go south. Funny how that happens.

My recent snag is trying to install a grounding rod outside my garage. I've tried a half dozen locations in my preferred area to drive it in but I keep getting hung up on rocks or tree roots. Once I got it over 5 feet deep before it jammed up. That was a real bear to pull out. hew:

I'm going to try again today maybe driving it at an angle or using a water drill method I saw on utube. Wish me luck.

_"Honey, wheres the ibuprofen?"_


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## Chip (Oct 23, 2014)

lens42 said:


> I have the Enco version of that machine. They are a very cute alternative if you don't have room for a BP. The only negative is the fairly small Z range (under 14").



Hopefully someday I can come across a 4" riser for it and improve that situation. The one that Grizzly used to carry (H8107) is discontinued.


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## Chip (Oct 23, 2014)

I installed my VFD today. Turns out that there was a panel on the back of the base to allow access to an internal coolant pump. This seemed like an ideal location for a remote mount of the main box. As you might notice in the picture, I mounted the mill to a pair of 2x6  timbers. This way I can roll my pallet jack underneath and move it around if  necessary.



Here's the VFD remote. Right now it is just ziptie'd to the DRO. I need to make a bracket for it and then it should be good to go. I wired it up to the drum switch so that I could run both the HI and LO speed configurations of the two speed motor. I read that you can fry a VFD by disconnecting it from a running motor, so to make sure that doesn't happen I removed the control knob that goes to the drum switch. Now if I want to go from HI speed to LO I have to unplug the VFD, wait for it to fully power off, find the control knob for the drum switch and use it to change motor speeds, then plug the VFD back in and go. I tested it and it works just fine.


Now I just need to get some collets and such, and also read up on the nuances of the VFD. For instance, I am not sure why the analog knob doesn't seem to be active.


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## JimDawson (Oct 23, 2014)

Nice clean install.  I like the timbers under it, makes life a bit easier.

I do have a couple of comments.  The VFD is installed upside down which may interfere with the cooling air flow.  The fans normally blow from bottom to top.  This leads me to the next issue.  The picture below is my electrical outlet on the back of my mill, it's about 3 ft off the floor, and the top of it is covered with aluminium chips.  The VFD won't like chips.  I would install a shield over the top, but not so close that it would interfere with the air flow.


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## zmotorsports (Oct 23, 2014)

I agree with Jim but I would go one step further and mount it in some kind of an enclosure.  I mounted mine in a large NEMA 1 enclosure to ward off swarf.

Nice looking mill, very clean and appears to be in great condition.


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## markknx (Oct 23, 2014)

Chip said:


> Hopefully someday I can come across a 4" riser for it and improve that situation. The one that Grizzly used to carry (H8107) is discontinued.


One of the hobby machining mags just ran a article on building a riser block for a mill. see if you can find that andmake your own.  Mark


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## sdunt (Oct 24, 2014)

Now that you've that ONE grounding rod installed. Ah, the latest codes call for TWO rods a foot apart.. ... 

I live in farm county, black top soil down many feet, so doing two was easy. Its a major overkill in my opinion..



Chip said:


> My recent snag is trying to install a grounding rod outside my garage.
> _"Honey, wheres the ibuprofen?"_


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## Chip (Oct 24, 2014)

Thanks for the words of wisdom. Looks like I've got some more tinkering to do.


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## Falcon67 (Oct 24, 2014)

Looks good - except that VFD needs to be up high, not low.  Swarf will kill it.  And if you box it in, it needs airflow.


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## Chip (Oct 25, 2014)

Here's the version 2.0 install where I addressed the concerns. I flipped it upright, and installed a chip deflector over the top. I think the camera angle makes everything look closer to the floor than it actually is. There is actually 14" clearance from the bottom of the VFD to the floor. I plan to try this setup and keep an eye out for problems and consider an enclosure if necessary. I want to keep the VFD attached to the mill because of the relatively tight location I had to place it. (still want to be able to park my car in the garage. )) This way if I have a large workpiece, I can use my pallet jack and the 13' power cord to bring the mill out to the open garage floor temporarily. Please excuse the Rube Goldberg looking conduit standpipe, I wanted to retain the mill's original flex conduit going to the motor for aesthetic reasons so I needed to address the flex cable being too short to reach the VFD when mounted upright.


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## JimDawson (Oct 25, 2014)

That's better!  I don't think that conduit will quite meet code, but it will work just fine.:whistle:

Keep an eye on the chips.


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## lens42 (Oct 30, 2014)

I would still get a box. I've done a few VFD installs and I've always been able to find either an old alarm, sprinkler controller, or electrical box. I like to mount the VFD with the face poking through the front, but everything else inside. It takes some measuring and careful cutting, but that's what you got the mill for, right? Also, I'll usually drill holes and puts screens in the top and bottom for air so if there are already a few holes, it's no problem.


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## Mark in Indiana (Nov 2, 2014)

Chip said:


> Look what followed me home...
> 
> Made in Taiwan, not too big, not too small, appears to have been used on aluminum exclusively. A used 3/4 knee mill within my start up budget. I'm happy.
> 
> ...



Looks Great! I use a JTM4VS at work. I wish it had the DRO & table feed.


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## Mister Ed (Dec 26, 2014)

Chip said:


> Right now I have a new X-powerfeed on order ....



Chip - Which power feed did you go with? Any issues bolting it up? I am in the market for one, just not sure if std Bridgeport size will fit or not.

I bought my 8x36 earlier last summer. Way better than my ole mill drill.)


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## Chip (Dec 29, 2014)

Mister Ed said:


> Chip - Which power feed did you go with? Any issues bolting it up? I am in the market for one, just not sure if std Bridgeport size will fit or not.
> 
> I bought my 8x36 earlier last summer. Way better than my ole mill drill.)



I bought the cheapest Bridgeport power feed at Enco and it bolted right on.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=31229690&PMAKA=404-3045

However, this replaced a broken import power feed from the previous owner, and this one is essentially it's clone in design. I could not tell you if the previous owner had needed to do any mods to get the original one to fit.


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## Mister Ed (Dec 29, 2014)

Thanks Chip. It was the end cap that I was wondering about bolting up.


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## Chip (Jan 1, 2015)

The cast aluminum bracket that mounts to the table was an exact fit.


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## Mister Ed (Jan 12, 2015)

Chip said:


> The cast aluminum bracket that mounts to the table was an exact fit.



Hey Chip -
If you have an extra bracket/endplate I would be interested in it. I bought the Enco powerfeed and it sure appears to be too wide. I don't know, maybe they changed the bolt pattern on the mill ... mine is an '03 version.

Ed


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## Chip (Jan 14, 2015)

This is the one I took off. If you think it will help you let me know. I should have it around somewhere.


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## Mister Ed (Jan 14, 2015)

Thanks Chip. If you can find it kicking around, we can at least compare some measurements and go from there. I did not strip my mill handle down yet (too honking cold up here), but just from holding the powerfeed endplate up its too wide.

Jet also may have changed around the end plate/bolt pattern ... but I see nothing in the parts books about that. However, when I look at the power feed they offer for a new mill ... it is the same feed for any of the mills, so maybe they did make a change at some point.


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## Mister Ed (Jan 17, 2015)

Not trying to hijack Chips thread, but just an update on the discussions Chip and I were having regarding the end plate for the power feed (someone may Google this someday). We also exchanged a couple IMs, and I finally tore into my right side. Once the end plate was off, low and behold I discovered an extra set of drilled & tapped holes that are spaced correctly for standard size mill endplate (6" OC I believe).

So, if you are installing a power feed on a JVM 836, the standard Bridgeport size does fit ... the holes for the larger end plate are already there. I spent hours searching on the net ... it took 10 minutes to get the end plate off to realize it would work.


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