# Advice for collet chucks - G0602



## gun410 (Jul 25, 2019)

Hello, I'm new to the thread and also semi new to machining. About a month ago i bought a G0602 new from grizzly since then i have accumulated a decent amount of tooling but I still only have the stock 3 and 4 jaw chucks. I looked at 6 jaw chucks but they are expensive and a collet chuck seems like it would be pretty nice to have. My lathe still isnt leveled and the tailstock isn't aligned but that because my setup is the lathe sitting on a tool cabinet with roller wheels so there isn't a point of leveling because the lathe moves on the rollers and the leveling would constantly get thrown off ( don't have a machinist level either). So the chucks im looking at is the 5c collet chuck or a er40 chuck. I'm leaning towards the 5c chuck but I'm looking for advice.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ER40-5-SET...dj-0-0005-TIR-1-3-4-8-Back-Plate/333062311281


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## gun410 (Jul 25, 2019)

These are the 2 ones i have found with a threaded backing plate fitting my lathe (1 3/4-8).








						BOSTAR  5C Collet Lathe Chuck With Semi-finished Adp. 1-3/4" x 8  Thread.  | eBay
					

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for BOSTAR  5C Collet Lathe Chuck With Semi-finished Adp. 1-3/4" x 8  Thread. at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



					www.ebay.com


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## keeena (Jul 25, 2019)

I have the Shars ER40 chuck + backplate which is what you linked to. I was able to get the chuck to about 0.0003" run out and use it often. If you go with the Shars you will have to do some minor clean-up. The collet nut threads were rough out of the box. Some light emery and a small triangular file cleaned it up perfect. I'd recommend ditching the included collet nut and buying a ball bearing style nut instead.

You'll get debate about which one is better. They both hold round bits and have pros/cons. From what I've gathered:

ER40 collets have a wider range (per collet) thus fewer collets needed over a given range. A bit more time to change because no quick closure mechanism. I read somewhere that ER40 clamps on the entire length more evenly due to geometry and being slit from both sides, but take that with a grain of salt.
5C is the traditional collet style for lathes - you'll find these more widely available as well as other fixturing (spindexers, for instance). You also get the potential benefit of quick closures (faster to swap) as well as machinable collets if holding odd or non-round stock. The range of each collet is limited (1/64" I think?)...means more than 2x number of collets needed for the typical range (1/8" - 1").

I stumbled on a nice quality ER40 collet set at a liquidator for short money, so that's why I ended up with this system for the moment. I don't think you could go wrong with either one as long as you understand options & limitations.


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## fitterman1 (Jul 25, 2019)

Hi, i have both but prefer ER40 because of the ranging of each individual collet.
The choice is yours.
Cheers alby


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## hman (Jul 25, 2019)

One possible factor to consider - 5C collets are available for square and hexagonal materials, as well as round.  If you anticipate turning such materials, you may well want to go with 5C.  Otherwise, I'll agree with the previous posters about the utility of ERs.


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## mickri (Jul 25, 2019)

Nice lathe.

Another thing to consider is with an ER40 chuck long pieces of stock will fit in the spindle bore.  Can't do this with 5C collets.  And with MT4 and MT3 adapters for the headstock and tailstock you can use the ER40 collets in both the headstock and tailstock.  Can't use 5C collets on the tailstock.   If you should get a mill or a mill/drill some day you will be able to get an R8 adapter to use your ER40 collets on the mill.  Can't do this with 5C collets.  For these reasons and more I went with ER32 collets.

My craftsman lathe came with a set of 3C collets.  I have never used them.  But then I am a newbie to this machining hobby and there will probably come a time when I do use the 3C collets.

If you go with the ER40 collets buy at least 2 or 3 extra collet nuts.  With the extra nuts you can have different size collets already to go without having to change the collet when you change tooling.  I have found this to be a real time saver on some projects.

What people are really talking about when leveling a lathe is eliminating twist in the lathe bed.  It would be nice if the lathe is level to the floor.  But what you are really wanting is to eliminate twist in the bed of the lathe.  Doesn't really matter if the lathe isn't level to the floor.  I would beef up the top of you tool cabinet with at least one or better yet two pieces of 3/4 plywood glued and screwed together and to the top of the cabinet..  You might be able to check for twist with an inexpensive laser.  Mount the laser as far outboard as you can on the carriage.  With the carriage right up to the headstock make a mark where the laser dot is.  Now move the carriage all the way to the end of the bed and check to see if the dot has moved.  I have never done this and is just an idea that I thought of sitting here.  My lathe isn't level to the floor but the bed doesn't have any twist.

A good newbie project is to make a collet chuck for the headstock.  I did this.  Here is a link to my thread on making an ER collet chuck.  https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/no-excuse-not-to-make-an-er32-chuck-for-the-lathe.73804/  Halligan142 has a series of videos on making an ER collet chuck.

Another good beginner project is to make a Norman style QCTP.  Lots of members on the forum have done this.  I made one.  https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/tool-post-holder.69487/  You can buy QCTPs.  What gets expensive real quick is the tool holders.  You can never have enough tool holders.  I originally made 7 tool holders.  It is not enough.  Having to change the tooling in a tool holder defeats the purpose of having a QCTP.

Have fun with your lathe.  Don't be afraid to ask any questions.  The people on here who really know what they are doing will keep you pointed in the right direction.


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## gun410 (Jul 26, 2019)

Before i was leaning towards the 5c because its for work holding not tool holding but the er40 has a tru adjust backplate that is attracting me. 
Will there be a ton of machining for the backplate? I don't have a mill so i have to go with a backplate with the holes already drilled.
Making a Norman QCTP would be fun with a mill but i already have a wedge style QCTP.


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## mickri (Jul 26, 2019)

You don't need a mill to make an ER40 collet chuck for the headstock.  Everything is turned on the lathe.  You need about a 3" long piece of round stock of sufficient OD diameter for the ER40  threads and the threads for the headstock.  I used a piece of 2" round stock.  The threads on the headstock of my lathe are 1 1/2" x 8tpi' The steps I used to make my ER32 collet chuck were

1.  Bore a 1" hole all the way through the round stock.
2.  Enlarge the hole you just bored on one end to the correct ID diameter to cut a thread to match the threads on the headstock.  The threads can be a lose fit because you want the chuck to seat up against the headstock and not on the threads.
3.  Mount the round stock on the headstock.
4.  Bore the end to the same taper as the ER collets.  The taper was 8 degrees for my ER32 collets.  I think the ER40 collets have the same 8 degree taper.  You will need to verify the taper on the ER40 collets.
5.  Turn the outside down to the correct OD for the ER40 threads and cut the threads.  I believe the threads are 1.5mm.
6.  Drill 3 or 4 holes equally spaced around the chuck for a collet nut wrench or file/grind two flats for a big open end wrench.

Your are done.  You collet chuck will look like this.


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## gun410 (Jul 26, 2019)

mickri said:


> You don't need a mill to make an ER40 collet chuck for the headstock.  Everything is turned on the lathe.  You need about a 3" long piece of round stock of sufficient OD diameter for the ER40  threads and the threads for the headstock.  I used a piece of 2" round stock.  The threads on the headstock of my lathe are 1 1/2" x 8tpi' The steps I used to make my ER32 collet chuck were
> 
> 1.  Bore a 1" hole all the way through the round stock.
> 2.  Enlarge the hole you just bored on one end to the correct ID diameter to cut a thread to match the threads on the headstock.  The threads can be a lose fit because you want the chuck to seat up against the headstock and not on the threads.
> ...


I know i don't need a mill for the er40 chuck but the one on ebay has a tru adjust so it will be very accurate. And i'm not sure that i could get something that accurate and with my experience and lathe not being leveled that wont help either.


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## mickri (Jul 26, 2019)

I am just a newbie at this too.  In the picture that I had posted I had just finished testing for runout and the dial indicator didn't even move.  You could also contact Bealltool to see if they one that will fit you lathe.  http://www.bealltool.com/products/turning/colletchuck.php  No machining required for their collet chucks


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## gun410 (Jul 27, 2019)

Thanks ill check it out. I'm about to make some muzzle breaks on my g0602 10x22 i cant find anywhere what speeds feeds carbide could anyone help me here?


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## gun410 (Jul 27, 2019)

gun410 said:


> Thanks ill check it out. I'm about to make some muzzle breaks on my g0602 10x22 i cant find anywhere what speeds feeds carbide could anyone help me here?


This is talking about my  1.125" Dia 17-4 ph SS round stock^


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## keeena (Jul 29, 2019)

Saw the bumps in the thread and wanted to post a source for my earlier comment about work holding range: 




Keep in mind that JP is showing what happens when you go a outside of the size designed for a single 5C collet. This means your work needs to be very close match to the chosen collet.

Video is a good one in general (as are many of JP's vids).


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## keeena (Jul 29, 2019)

gun410 said:


> ...the er40 has a tru adjust backplate that is attracting me. Will there be a ton of machining for the backplate? I don't have a mill so i have to go with a backplate with the holes already drilled....



Machining the Shars BP to work with the ER40 is pretty easy. Before touching the boss I turned the face of the BP as this will be where the chuck will sit. Mine had the slightest bit of deviation when mounted to my spindle, so a light facing ensured the setup was true to the spindle. Mark the BP so it can be re-installed in the same position in the future.

From my notes the BP boss was 0.106" larger in diameter vs. the chuck. They say to turn it to 0.010" clearance and you'll eventually use the chuck's screw system to true the chuck in. Face the BP boss to ~0.070" clearance from the chuck.


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