# Clausing 8520 Mill in Grand Junction CO



## rock_breaker (Jan 8, 2018)

Son in Law saw this on Colorado Western Slope Craigslist. In the pictures the machine looks great and is priced at $2500. The ad was still there at 8:00 pm Monday Jan 8, 2018
Do these machines have an MT3 taper in the spindle? 
Can this be altered to accept R-8 collets?
If the Spindle head  is rotated how difficult is it to get it perpendicular to the table again?
I have an Enco round column mill/drill and mostly one ended milling cutters, would these work in the 8520?
Can the power feed (x direction) on the Enco be mounted on the 8520.  
The advertised rotation speeds have a wider range especially in higher RPM than the Enco is this an advantage?
Your feedback will help me in deciding to start bargaining.   
Thanks in advance for your feedback
Ray


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## woodchucker (Jan 8, 2018)

rock_breaker said:


> Son in Law saw this on Colorado Western Slope Craigslist. In the pictures the machine looks great and is priced at $2500. The ad was still there at 8:00 pm Monday Jan 8, 2018 That's on the high end around here. So there probably is some wiggle room. If I remember correctly, I paid 1500 and it came with nothing. Right after I bought mine one came up for 1800 with rotary table, with vise, with cutters, then he lowered it to 1500.  Wish I had bought that one instead. It looked in better condition too.
> 
> Do these machines have an MT3 taper in the spindle?  MT2
> Can this be altered to accept R-8 collets? Not enough meat in my opinion to do it.
> ...



See red responses inline.


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## rock_breaker (Jan 8, 2018)

Woodchucker
Thank you for your responses. My early on thinking is that I would have to get a morse taper for each size of end mill ( 5/16 through 5/8 by 16ths) and a 3/4 to mount most of my stuff. In reading your responses I could be trading one set of problems for a different set-- definitely has me thinking.
Thanks again
Ray


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## tertiaryjim (Jan 9, 2018)

That 8520 has been advertized for some time.
Around here they should sell at 1200 or less.
The seller probably wont deal or it would be gone.


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## Bill Gruby (Jan 9, 2018)

Spindle is either MT2 or BS9 Taper. As far as I know it cannot be modified to R8. Tramming the head is not difficult nor is it time consuming. Yes, your cutters will wok up to 1/2 dia. shank. You need adapters to use larger ones.The power feed may need modification. The higher speed range is to your advantage.
 Now the last part, IMHO the 2500 price tag is too high. I would place it at 1800 top end.
 I own an 8520, they are a sweet machine. They are greatly sought after for home shops.

 "Billy G"


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## ConValSam (Jan 9, 2018)

Bill Gruby said:


> Now the last part, IMHO the 2500 price tag is too high. I would place it at 1800 top end.
> I own an 8520, they are a sweet machine. They are greatly sought after for home shops



I am with Bill on both fronts -- I would ad this thought regarding the price.

I have yet to see anyone badmouth the 8520 here or anywhere else; rather, you read glowing reviews, see amazing rebuild threads and hear, "I never new what a real cut was until I first used my 8520."  Of course, there is the occasional snarl about the MT2 collet's inferiority, but few and largely countered with another glowing attribute of these mills.

For those selling an 8520/30, a quick search yields the same info.  Add to that an ebay search and the price points regularly found make sense; we proud, enthusiastic owners have tilted the marketplace.

From my observation, the same can be said for a number of other machines "sought after for home shops."  An incomplete list:
Atlas MF, MFB, MFC horizontal mill
Atlas 7B shaper
Burke Millrite MV, MVN, MVI mill
Rockwell 21-100 mill

There is an MFB currently for sale on Ebay for $2700.  It is in absurdly good shape for its age.  42 people are currently watching (including me.)  I happened to start chasing it when it was on CL near me.  When I called during the 10th hour (including the night!), it was gone.  Selling price then $400.  I am still watching....


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## gasengin (Jan 9, 2018)

In the west, that seems to be the asking range.  I've even seen higher and they usually don't stay on CL long.  This was the mill I initially wanted, but when I saw the price difference between the Clausing and a full size mill, I ended up with a Bridgeport clone (Jet slightly used).


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## jocat54 (Jan 9, 2018)

This mill was on craigslist well over a year ago. I did talk to him via email--he was not interested in any bargaining at the time (actually kind of rude sounding) Maybe ready to move it now?


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## Bob Korves (Jan 9, 2018)

Low offers by email from people who have not looked at the item are not often well received.  Go look at the item, decide what it is worth to you, pay no attention to the asking price, and then if the item is something you want, make an offer, explain how you got there, and stick firm to it.  Be perceived as a serious buyer, not as a tire kicker.  If there is push back. write your offer down on paper with your name, contact information, and a date that the offer expires (perhaps one week?), with an added "or until I find something else."  Hand it to the seller, be courteous and upbeat, shake hands, and walk away.  Wait for the call.  It often works.


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## texanjohn (Jan 9, 2018)

What Bill says is GOOD,SOUND advice, if the seller does indeed have a sense of reality, then you have a descent chance of walking away with the machine that you want, if not, the seller is wanting more then it’s worth to you.


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## texanjohn (Jan 9, 2018)

BOB not Bill


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## rock_breaker (Jan 9, 2018)

Thanks guys!
I will be back in Grand Junction in early February so may try negotiating an appointment to examine the machine. 
I have read several good comments about the 8520 and also like my Clausing 100 MK3  lathe.


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## jocat54 (Jan 9, 2018)

Bob Korves said:


> Low offers by email from people who have not looked at the item are not often well received.  Go look at the item, decide what it is worth to you, pay no attention to the asking price, and then if the item is something you want, make an offer, explain how you got there, and stick firm to it.  Be perceived as a serious buyer, not as a tire kicker.  If there is push back. write your offer down on paper with your name, contact information, and a date that the offer expires (perhaps one week?), with an added "or until I find something else."  Hand it to the seller, be courteous and upbeat, shake hands, and walk away.  Wait for the call.  It often works.




Just to clarify--never made any offer to him. I believe I did ask if he was firm on his price though.


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## Bob Korves (Jan 9, 2018)

jocat54 said:


> Just to clarify--never made any offer to him. I believe I did ask if he was firm on his price though.


Thanks.  But, no offer, then no chance of a successful deal.  Just saying...  If it was not an item that you wanted to even look at after speaking with the owner, then good, don't waste your time.  If it was still something you might have had interest in at some terms you had in mind, then I think you might have gone and looked at it.  Sometimes things just need to be let go of.  Other times, they need to be pursued to see if an agreement can be reached.  Nothing ventured, nothing gained.  For the whole year that went by, he could have been looking at your offer and phone number.


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## gasengin (Jan 10, 2018)

Bob gives good advise.  If you are interested, talk to him directly (best in person but next best is phone).  Make him any offer.  If he doesn't take it, leave your number.  Those mills have a cult like following, so hard to say if he will come down.  There is one listed at Dillion, MT for $3500.  That's just crazy money!


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## Bill Gruby (Jan 10, 2018)

I am watching this with amusement.  You cannot put a price tag on someones happiness. None of us can. If something is worth only 10.00 to you so be it. It may be worth more than that to someone else. This is their decision to make not ours. I myself have paid more than the face value for something simple because I wanted it. I have seen these mills go for more than 3500.00. Bottom line, there is no telling what someone else will pay.

 "Billy G"


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## Bob Korves (Jan 10, 2018)

Something is only worth what you can get for it -- within an acceptable time period.  The market is the variable, and it changes constantly, especially for arcane items.  There might only be one prospective buyer for a really arcane item, and you should be very sure to attract that one person and make a deal, or be prepared to sit on it longer term.  Or there might be many potential buyers for a desirable and rare item.  Odds of getting a good price for a sale in a short time period increase dramatically with wide exposure, ads with clearly and easily understood photos and descriptions that show the item in its best light, and a calm, reasonable, and attentive demeanor with potential buyers.  Buyers need to understand the art of the deal as well, from the other side of the table.  Don't be your own worst enemy...


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## gasengin (Jan 10, 2018)

This thread has two different sub-threads going that have been mixed together.  Myself included.  One is the value of an 8520, and the other is how to make an offer.  These two dollar figures are not necessarily anywhere close to equal in the overall market.

As far as value, $2500 seems to be in the middle of the range that I've seen listed, but I don't know what the exact sale prices were.  A seller that doesn't "need" to sell, may not feel the need to drop the price.  A motivated seller will drop.  When I started looking for a mill, this was the one I wanted.  I soon realized for me, I could get way more capacity with a Bridgeport style and not pay much, if any, more.  I think $3500 is "crazy money" in comparison to the cost/capability of a Bridgeport style.  I do understand that some people have size and weight restrictions that I do not have.

As far as making the an offer, it is all just talk until a dollar amount is put out there.  The seller always has the option to say no, and that's fine if they do.  Some may get insulted, but that's their problem, not yours.  I've said, "To me it's worth $X. I'd give you that."  That takes of emphasis off their assigned value of the item and puts it on the value to me.  Some times I buy things, some times I don't.  Sometimes they counter and I have the chance to decide, or give them my number if they change their mind.  The key to getting it started is you need to present an offer with a specific dollar value attached.


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## rock_breaker (Jan 11, 2018)

Gasengin, Bill & Bob,
Thanks for your input, by being 200 miles from the machine my  approach will be to negotiate a meeting date if it is still on the market in early February. I believe a face to face meeting and inspection are crucial. From there the guidelines Bob has set forth will be followed. I am not sure if the seller is aware of this website but their description of the machine makes me think they would be a third person involved in the transaction. Not a critical thing to me in any case, if I our prices don't coincide then obviously there is no deal.
Not having seen one of these machines makes me wonder if I can use the tooling I have for my Enco 105 Mill/Drill  on the Clausing 8520. Several responses have been made mostly favorable and they are appreciated. The requesting price is at the upper range of my budget, but perhaps the sale of the Enco would ease that. How well does the 8520 handle a boring head to make a 1.75" dia hole is the type of questions running through my mind. On the Enco I try to keep it running as smoothly as I can so my DOC and feed rate are normally less than those listed in the books. Much of my work is in steel.
I understand the quill travel is 3" but am not sure of the distance from the quill to the top of a lowered table.
Thanks for all of your help.
Ray


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## Bill Gruby (Jan 11, 2018)

Boring a 1.75 hole will be no problem. I have bored 4.200 with mine with nary a groan.  Good luck.

 "Billy G"


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## Bob Korves (Jan 11, 2018)

rock_breaker said:


> Gasengin, Bill & Bob,
> Thanks for your input, by being 200 miles from the machine my  approach will be to negotiate a meeting date if it is still on the market in early February. I believe a face to face meeting and inspection are crucial. From there the guidelines Bob has set forth will be followed. I am not sure if the seller is aware of this website but their description of the machine makes me think they would be a third person involved in the transaction. Not a critical thing to me in any case, if I our prices don't coincide then obviously there is no deal.
> Not having seen one of these machines makes me wonder if I can use the tooling I have for my Enco 105 Mill/Drill  on the Clausing 8520. Several responses have been made mostly favorable and they are appreciated. The requesting price is at the upper range of my budget, but perhaps the sale of the Enco would ease that. How well does the 8520 handle a boring head to make a 1.75" dia hole is the type of questions running through my mind. On the Enco I try to keep it running as smoothly as I can so my DOC and feed rate are normally less than those listed in the books. Much of my work is in steel.
> I understand the quill travel is 3" but am not sure of the distance from the quill to the top of a lowered table.
> ...


I try to be honest and straightforward with any seller, and when I am the seller.  People can tell if you are feeding them a line, and will hold back.  If you are honest and earnest, look 'em in the eyes and tell them how you see the possible transaction being closed in a favorable way to both parties, then they pay attention.  It is also at this point where you can see clearly whether they are being honest and straightforward.  This is where solid deals are made in short order, or where you become pretty sure it is hopeless.  It helps a lot if you really do not "need" something.  As hobbyists, we never do, if you think about it rationally.  Don't get all caught up in a frenzy and do dumb things.  Make the deal easily understandable with clear benefits to both parties.  We want both sides of the transaction to walk away happy.  I do not care if anybody I have bought or sold something from/to reads about it on H-M or on a billboard.


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## Winch_Warrior (Jan 2, 2022)

Found this old thread and thought I would give my .02 because it was my Clausing 8520 that I sold a few years ago that evidently caused a little discussion on here. I appreciate the solid advice from Bob Korves about buying and selling and being straightforward with sellers. In my opinion,  Bob is "Spot On" about "Low offers by email from people who have not looked at the item are not often well received."
That is exactly what happened more than once on the sale of this Clausing, and yes, those offers were not well recieved.

I caught more than one person feeding me a line of BS about the purchase of this machine and had a couple make an appointment and never showed up. No phone call, No integrity in my book.

I have another Clausing mill that I have been thinking about selling in the near future in phenominal condition, just as the one I sold a few years ago. There is a following for these machines just because they can be torn down and moved with two or three guys without heavy equipment and they run on any household 110 volt.   

These 8520, 8525 and 8530 Clausings here in the west usually bring top dollar if they are in really good condition and the seller isn't in a hurry to sell. Which would be my position on these mills.

Anyway, I realize this thread is four years old, but I thought it might shed some light on the next Clausing mill for sale here in Grand Junction, Colorado and if someone might be interested.

Great Forum and Happy New Year!


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## rock_breaker (Jan 2, 2022)

@Winch_Warrior .
Thanks for the "heads up". I am basically window shopping at this time. The interest in Clausing stems from the Lathe I currently own, I like it. I also have 2 mill drills with R-8 collets and I believe the Clausings are MT3 so changing over is a factor. 

I have an upcoming appointment with Urological Associates in Grand Junction in May? and if things haven't changed a great deal perhaps I can make an appointment at that time.


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