# Mounting a bench lathe



## Alcap (Apr 26, 2019)

This is my first post so just want to thank everyone here for such a great web site !  I bought my first lathe a few weeks ago , Chinese one that appears to be the Smithy AT300 but with no milling head , just a plate where the head would sit .  Right now I have it sitting on a home made wooden bench that was used for a AMT wood lathe . I plan on putting together a steel one from some kind of electrical equipment , made from 2x2 angle , it has to be shortened in width to fit my very small basement shop , but it will still be 24" x 42"  when done .  Not sure how what I'll use for a top yet but I do have a large galv. pan that was sold as a drip pan under vehicles .  I didn't see any mounting holes under the tailstock end so I would think neither at the headstock . The Smithy manual said you could use the carrying bars on each corner to hold it down , which I might do .   Anyway the bottom of the lathe looks to be just cast , should I try some epoxy to smoothen it when mounting or semi hard plastic ?   Open for suggestions , thanks Al


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## markba633csi (Apr 26, 2019)

Hi Al, you see no mounting holes at all?  Are there protrusions or lugs? I haven't examined the bottom of a Smithy but hard to believe they didn't provide some way of fastening it
Mark
ps I wouldn't worry too much about the finish underneath, you may have to use shims to level it though


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## hman (Apr 26, 2019)

As far as a base for the lathe is concerned, I've had good success with a double thickness of ¾" MDF, glued together with whatever wood glue you like.  You can use a ¼" or ⅛" roundover bit in a router to smooth the edges, then give it a coat of shellac, varnish or paint to prevent spills from soaking in.  Be aware that the "end grain" of the MDF is tremendously thirsty, and might well take a couple of coats.

I've used automotive-style drip pans for a couple of tools.  Really like them!  They're inexpensive, and if you wish, you can seal around the base of the tool with silicone or caulk to keep fluids/oil/swarf from crawling under the tool or seeping down through the mounting bolt holes - once you figure out where to put them


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## markba633csi (Apr 26, 2019)

Just to add to the knowledge base: MDF= medium density fiberboard


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## Alcap (Apr 26, 2019)

i will look again under the lathe to see if there's any threaded holes . I reworked the steel stand today ,because I need to take it in sections to get it in the basement I cut it to width then  borrowed a hydraulic punch to put 1/2" holes through the steel  will use bolts to put it back together , also will need painting before a top and drawers/shelf installed , the mdf could be 4x thickness  from a 4x8 sheet . Have to see what Home Depot carries .


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## mickri (Apr 26, 2019)

Get an old metal desk.  They are often dirt cheap to free and will have drawers, leveling feet and a top that is usually impervious to oil.   There are several threads on here that talk about the virtues of using a metal desk for a bench top lathe.


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## hman (Apr 27, 2019)

mickri said:


> Get an old metal desk.  They are often dirt cheap to free and will have drawers, leveling feet and a top that is usually impervious to oil.   There are several threads on here that talk about the virtues of using a metal desk for a bench top lathe.


I'll agree in a general way.  Steel desks are indeed nice and sturdy.  But the height of a desk is a bit low for a machine tool.  However, you can add a bit of height with a relatively modest platform of steel or lumber (2x boards on edge, for instance) below.


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## Alcap (Apr 27, 2019)

Using a steel desk would have saved a lot of work but my workshop is tiny . 24" deep and 48" wide would be the limit . The metal stand I found fit my space , being 6" shorter at 42" and now cut down to 24" wide . I never thought about height so I'll need to see if that will need some kind of blocks or risers .


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## wildo (Apr 27, 2019)

I’m not sure where you are located, but in my area a sheet of 3/4” mdf is up to $55. Personally, I’d spend $100 more and get a hard maple benchtop from Grizzly. I have these tops throughout my shop and the are very nice. Definitely more rigid than mdf, and also won’t absorb the inevitable oil spills like mdf will.









						1-1/2" Maple Butcher Block Countertop 48" W x 25" D at Grizzly.com
					

<h1>H9688 1-1/2" Maple Butcher Block Countertop 48" W x 25" D</h1> <h2>Add a classic looking maple countertop to any 25" deep cabinet.</h2> <p>Made in the USA, the H9688 1-1/2" Maple Butcher Block Countertop is made of hard maple and coated with a Durakryl finish.  <p>This finish leaves the...




					www.grizzly.com


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## wildo (Apr 27, 2019)




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## ThinWoodsman (Apr 27, 2019)

That is a textbook case of machinery infestation.

Folks, this is what happens if you allow even _one drill press _into a room.


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## projectnut (Apr 27, 2019)

Here's another idea if you want a stand alone machine with a chip pan.  This one has 3" square tube legs with a 3/4 x 6
	

		
			
		

		
	




	

		
			
		

		
	
" pad on each end for mounting the legs.  The chip pan slides out for cleaning.  There's a tie bar between the front legs and another between the rear.  They also hold the shelf.


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## Alcap (Apr 29, 2019)

Very nice shops posted , mine looks  nothing like those but I sure wish it did , anyway , slid the lathe off the edge of the bench to see if I missed threaded mounting holes underneath but non there .  In the Smithy manual that is similar they mention using the carrying handles to hold it down , I did notice underneath was machined the whole length not just pads at either end , though not sure  how flat it is , would it be wise  when I do mount it to have it supported on the complete bottom ?   Maybe start by raising the ends with steel enough to see how the relationship the bed is to the bench top and shim it between ?   Hope the weather warms up and we have a few dry days    I want to clean and paint the steel before bring it into the shop


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## mikey (Apr 29, 2019)

I would flip the lathe over and drill/tap for leveling bolts at the front and rear edges of the bed on each end, and also drill and tap a center hole on each end to lock the lathe down once you have it leveled with your leveling bolts. 

What was Smithy thinking? Oh wait, they weren't thinking.


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## Alcap (Apr 29, 2019)

I slid  the lathe off the edge of the old bench to see if there were any flat areas to drill but doesn't see like it at least at the tailstock . I guess I could make some kind clamp at the lift handles Pictured with them pushed in and pulled out


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## matthewsx (Apr 29, 2019)

Is it moving around when you are running it? You might not need to hold it down at all, it's unlikely that you'll gain more accuracy by bolting it down. if you need to hold it down you could drill and tap the ends and use some angle steel.

John


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## ThinWoodsman (Apr 29, 2019)

Ubolts!

So do those lift handles come off? I figure you can run a bolt through them into the upright of some angle iron, then bolt the angle iron to the bench. Sure, it's not as secure as bolting the base directly, but it should improve things for very low time/money investment.


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## tweinke (Apr 30, 2019)

You should get a look at the underside of the bed. my shoptask 3 in 1 has threaded holes for hold down bolts or studs


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## mikey (Apr 30, 2019)

Looking at that arrangement, I think I would make four aluminum blocks with a horizontal hole to pass a bolt that locks the block to the side of the bed and a vertical hole to lock the block to the bench. 



matthewsx said:


> Is it moving around when you are running it? You might not need to hold it down at all, it's unlikely that you'll gain more accuracy by bolting it down. if you need to hold it down you could drill and tap the ends and use some angle steel.
> 
> John



I wonder what would happen if he happened to turn a big piece that was odd shaped and caused an imbalance. Do you think that would set up enough vibration so the lathe could move? I dunno', John, I think I would solidly mount the lathe ...

And besides, if it does move around even a little bit then his ways may move too - Taper City, no?


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## Alcap (Apr 30, 2019)

Having a block with a hole the size of the lifting handles should  work ! , Since I don't have the new bench finished I'll make one out of wood to see how it will fits  and any changes before making ones for the new bench .  One of the reasons that I want to mount this correctly is even though this is just a bench lathe the bed was designed as a milling table ( might not have every been good at milling I don't know )  but I purchased an angle plate , making a collet set-up for the headstock so I can do light milling/drill ,  Here's my intro , I wish I could remember more from those days lol 



			https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/hello-from-bangor-pa.77769/


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## matthewsx (Apr 30, 2019)

mikey said:


> Looking at that arrangement, I think I would make four aluminum blocks with a horizontal hole to pass a bolt that locks the block to the side of the bed and a vertical hole to lock the block to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





matthewsx said:


> you could drill and tap the ends and use some angle steel.



I vote for simple. 



ThinWoodsman said:


> Ubolts!
> 
> So do those lift handles come off? I figure you can run a bolt through them into the upright of some angle iron, then bolt the angle iron to the bench. Sure, it's not as secure as bolting the base directly, but it should improve things for very low time/money investment.



Cheers,

John


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## stupoty (Apr 30, 2019)

mikey said:


> I wonder what would happen if he happened to turn a big piece that was odd shaped and caused an imbalance. Do you think that would set up enough vibration so the lathe could move? I dunno', John, I think I would solidly mount the lathe ...




I was offset turning on my 9x20 once and set the spindle to an rpm that was too high , definetly glad it was bolted down 

Stu


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## Alcap (May 4, 2019)

This bench got really put on hold .  I was planning on retiring in 3 years , take a year to see where we would setting down , our house isn't bad , good neighbors but the traffic since we build it 35 years going is just too much , the noise is so bad you can't talk while the trucks/motorcyles ect go by . There was a nice older raised ranch across a creek from my son and DIL that the husband died last year and mother was going to moving in a nursing home .  We approached the daughter saying we would like to make an offer , She took our name and a few months later we saw someone moving in . We figured someone in their family or close friend bought it . Well  today we got a call asking if we still were interstuded , apparently a family move a few things in while the mother was still living there  and was helping her our . We walked around made a offer and she called back accepting it !  So now my whole plans are changing . I'll be figuring out where/how I'm going to set up my shop . There's a shed about the size of a one car garage , a oversize block 2 car garage with about 1/2 of that as a second floor .


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## hman (May 4, 2019)

OK!  Yer on the way to a much nicer shop space, that you can lay out and organize ahead of time.  Best wishes on the move, as well as the sale of your current house.


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## matthewsx (May 6, 2019)

Alcap said:


> This bench got really put on hold .  I was planning on retiring in 3 years , take a year to see where we would setting down , our house isn't bad , good neighbors but the traffic since we build it 35 years going is just too much , the noise is so bad you can't talk while the trucks/motorcyles ect go by . There was a nice older raised ranch across a creek from my son and DIL that the husband died last year and mother was going to moving in a nursing home .  We approached the daughter saying we would like to make an offer , She took our name and a few months later we saw someone moving in . We figured someone in their family or close friend bought it . Well  today we got a call asking if we still were interstuded , apparently a family move a few things in while the mother was still living there  and was helping her our . We walked around made a offer and she called back accepting it !  So now my whole plans are changing . I'll be figuring out where/how I'm going to set up my shop . There's a shed about the size of a one car garage , a oversize block 2 car garage with about 1/2 of that as a second floor .



Sounds like you're well on your way to the shop you really want. I have a small shop with a benchtop Seneca Falls lathe, I'd really like a floor mounted model though. As has been pointed out here many times, you can do good work on a small machine but not large work. Knowing what I know now I would have sold my bench lathe and bought a similar sized floor unit with modern bearings, chuck mounting, and a quick change gearbox. If you don't have a lot invested in tooling you will be dollars ahead to buy something more capable of doing nice work.


Cheers,

John


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