# DIY OD Grinder fixture, For the surface grinder- maybe



## Janderso (May 22, 2022)

Hill Top machine has two videos out on his idea for this handy gadget.
Tin Barn Time also made one.

Using a cheap spin indexer and a small motor is the starting point.
This motor is a 220v gear motor. It has a high speed of around 360 RPM. It's high torque so I should be able to seed it up without any problem.
I don't like the idea of using the spin indexer as is without coming up with simple bronze or ball bearings. Of course an oring would be needed to keep out the swarf on both ends.
A 5C platform is a great way to start.

I'll be watching Hilltop Machine and meanwhile, I'll get working on this.
I need to make a base that will hold the indexer and motor off the magnet far enough to give me some work area for at least 5-6" of stock.
See pic.
A long way to go


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## mmcmdl (May 22, 2022)

Hey ! That's one of OUR guys isn't it ? Like right down I 81 ?


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## jwmelvin (May 22, 2022)

I thought OD grinding should spin a part with a reference surface against the OD (not a bearing-defined center), so calling this an OD grinder isn’t right. Robin Renzetti did an OD grinding fixture. 

This punch/cylindrical grinder is a good idea though. I am also interested in making one, after spinning by had a few times. I don’t see why you’d want such a high rpm though, by an order of magnitude.


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## jwmelvin (May 22, 2022)

Do these spindexers not have bearings? My unihead, which I’ve been using for cylindrical grinding, definitely does. I guess I need to disassemble one of my spindexers.


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## woodchucker (May 22, 2022)

I have used my spindexer without a motor, hand cranking. I don't use it enough to worry about a bearing surface. It's cast iron, I use the lock hole to keep squirting oil in, and the spindle already had a layer of oil before I start..
if you are going to use it often, I would think you need to cut a channel for oil .


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## Janderso (May 22, 2022)

jwmelvin said:


> I thought OD grinding should spin a part with a reference surface against the OD (not a bearing-defined center), so calling this an OD grinder isn’t right. Robin Renzetti did an OD grinding fixture.
> 
> This punch/cylindrical grinder is a good idea though. I am also interested in making one, after spinning by had a few times. I don’t see why you’d want such a high rpm though, by an order of magnitude.


You are correct, this would be my version of an OD grinding fixture.
Lots to be considered and corrected. The datum of the spin indexer has to be co-planer or parallel with the table, the base has to be ground for easy set up to get it 90 degrees to the wheel, etc..


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## Janderso (May 22, 2022)

jwmelvin said:


> Do these spindexers not have bearings? My unihead, which I’ve been using for cylindrical grinding, definitely does. I guess I need to disassemble one of my spindexers.


No bearings in these jippo models. Just a slip fit. The tube is pretty hard, the indexer ID is just cast iron.


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## woodchucker (May 22, 2022)

Jeff, most grades of cast iron have enough graphite to be a lubricant. My lathe has a cast iron bearing.
Your quill goes up and down in a cast iron bearing.
The only thing lacking is a lubrication channel.


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## mmcmdl (May 22, 2022)

My spindexer traveled south . I can't remember if it had bearings or not , but I don't think they do .


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## Janderso (May 22, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> Jeff, most grades of cast iron have enough graphite to be a lubricant. My lathe has a cast iron bearing.
> Your quill goes up and down in a cast iron bearing.
> The only thing lacking is a lubrication channel.


Good point about the cast iron bearings. In this case the bore needs to be tightened up. I haven't measured yet but there is too much play between the tube and the bore.
I'm thinking oring grooves and bronze inserts. I can machine the bore enough to fabricate some bushes. What, maybe .001" clearance?? Have to use way oil so there has to be some room there.


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## jbobb1 (May 22, 2022)

The clearance really depends on the diameters you're working with. General rule of thumb is .001 per inch of diameter but wanting best accuracy and you're not running at a high speed, you could tighten that up a bit. Maybe .0006 - .0007 per inch


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## Janderso (May 22, 2022)

On a positive note, I have .0002" over 4" parallel to the surface plate with a ground rod!!


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## Janderso (May 24, 2022)

More progress today.
The spindle datum is within .0002” over 4”. This is coplanar to the ground base. That’s a good thing.
The ends however were rough as a cob and not ground with much attention to detail.
I set the part on an angle plate, dialed it in and dressed the one side on the SG.
I flipped it around and cleaned up the other side.
I also cleaned up the sides by putting it in the vise, indicated equal to the spindle cavity, flipped it using parallels.
Now I have a clean, straight casting to work with.
Stay tuned.


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## Janderso (May 26, 2022)

Well shoot.
I thought I had a face plate for my lathe but all I could find was a drive plate.
I found some on Ebay but it would be close to $450 for something I would rarely use.
I need to make a relief and oring groove on both sides in the bore.
This could be done on the mill, I guess that's where we are going from here. Never cut an oring groove in the mill 
I machined off the indexing part of the casting. Used the rotary table and a roughing end mill. Uneventful.
Then I went over to the 2X48 belt sander to clean it up.


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## mmcmdl (May 26, 2022)

This is when a facing head comes in handy Jeff .  Internal snap ring grooves etc .


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## woodchucker (May 26, 2022)

Janderso said:


> Well shoot.
> I thought I had a face plate for my lathe but all I could find was a drive plate.
> I found some on Ebay but it would be close to $450 for something I would rarely use.
> I need to make a relief and oring groove on both sides in the bore.
> ...


Won't a drive plate work?
I assume a drive plate is a face plate with a cut out for the dog leg?
I have used mine to attach things too. Do you feel the cut out might make it less rigid?


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## Janderso (May 26, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> Won't a drive plate work?
> I assume a drive plate is a face plate with a cut out for the dog leg?
> I have used mine to attach things too. Do you feel the cut out might make it less rigid?


You need to fasten the part ot a plate. Oh, wait. I see what you are saying. I won't have access to machine the ID unless I am just not understanding the set up..
Maybe we can get Dave to explain a "facing head"?


mmcmdl said:


> This is when a facing head comes in handy Jeff .  Internal snap ring grooves etc .


Dave,
Is that one of those boring heads that you hold while it moves outward?
It can be used for facing and boring?? Goes on the mill?


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## Janderso (May 26, 2022)

Dave,
What about an expanding 5C collet?
I like it!!
Machine to the right size, Bob's your uncle 
Or, is this too much weight for this application?


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## mmcmdl (May 26, 2022)

Janderso said:


> Dave,
> Is that one of those boring heads that you hold while it moves outward?
> It can be used for facing and boring?? Goes on the mill?


Yes , yes and yes ! And the expanding collet would work also . Just so it doesn't let go when grooving .


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## Janderso (May 26, 2022)

mmcmdl said:


> Yes , yes and yes ! And the expanding collet would work also . Just so it doesn't let go when grooving .


I'll wear my motorcycle helmet.
I don't have a lot of confidence in these Chinesium expanding mandrels. 
But, we'll move forward. 

Thanks man


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## Janderso (May 26, 2022)

Janderso said:


> I'll wear my motorcycle helmet.
> I don't have a lot of confidence in these Chinesium expanding mandrels.
> But, we'll move forward.
> 
> Thanks man


It works.
The spin index runs concentric!!
I think I'll run it around 140. If I take it easy I should be ok. Sharp HSS is the idea.
Now to do the math and work out the bushings, the oring specs etc.
This is the fun part


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## Cadillac (May 26, 2022)

Why not mount to a faceplate and cut the grooves on the lathe. Grind yourself a grooving tool. Should be a nice little job. 
 Although a boring and facing head would easy the job.


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## Janderso (May 27, 2022)

Cadillac said:


> Why not mount to a faceplate and cut the grooves on the lathe. Grind yourself a grooving tool. Should be a nice little job.
> Although a boring and facing head would easy the job.


I don’t have a face plate.


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## Janderso (May 27, 2022)

I changed direction.
I’m boring it on the mill.
I can use my coaxial indicator to dial in each side and the plate makes it much mor predictable and stable.


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## woodchucker (May 27, 2022)

Janderso said:


> I changed direction.
> I’m boring it on the mill.
> I can use my coaxial indicator to dial in each side and the plate makes it much mor predictable and stable.


Jeff, lock in the base more like you did with the toe clamps. I think you need more, just in case... It's always better that it NOT move unintentionally.
Edit: capture it in all directions N,E,S,W


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## jwmelvin (May 27, 2022)

I like that setup a lot more than the expanding arbor. Using a boring head or a key seat cutter?


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## wachuko (May 28, 2022)

Janderso said:


> I changed direction.
> I’m boring it on the mill.
> I can use my coaxial indicator to dial in each side and the plate makes it much mor predictable and stable.


At least we got to see the video of it rotating on the lathe …that looked cool and dangerous, hehehe

Following!!!


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## mmcmdl (May 28, 2022)

Change your clamping method Jeff . Stack the heel blocks up and clamp on the boss and 180 degrees on the round part . ( pull it down tight ) . If you ever want to try out a boring/facing head , let me know .


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## Janderso (May 28, 2022)

mmcmdl said:


> Change your clamping method Jeff . Stack the heel blocks up and clamp on the boss and 180 degrees on the round part . ( pull it down tight ) . If you ever want to try out a boring/facing head , let me know .


You think this will move?
I forgot to add paper between the clamped bar and the part.
I’ll work on it Dave, wink.

I have a lot of thinking to do on my design. I am feeling pretty good about it.

Cheers mate.


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## Janderso (May 28, 2022)

mmcmdl said:


> Change your clamping method Jeff . Stack the heel blocks up and clamp on the boss and 180 degrees on the round part . ( pull it down tight ) . If you ever want to try out a boring/facing head , let me know .


Dave,
Is this better?

Maybe one more stack between the toe clamps?


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## DavidR8 (May 28, 2022)

What's the purpose of the paper Jeff?


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## woodchucker (May 28, 2022)

It lowers the ability to slip. The paper adds a little bite (friction).  metal to metal sometimes has the slide potential.  Nice idea Jeff.


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## DavidR8 (May 28, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> It lowers the ability to slip. The paper adds a little bite (friction). metal to metal sometimes has the slide potential. Nice idea Jeff.



That makes sense. Like putting plywood on a pallet jack before setting a machine on it.


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## mmcmdl (May 28, 2022)

Janderso said:


> Dave,
> Is this better?


Much more bettery !


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## Janderso (May 28, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> It lowers the ability to slip. The paper adds a little bite (friction).  metal to metal sometimes has the slide potential.  Nice idea Jeff.


What he said.... 
You learn these things a long the way.


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## Janderso (May 28, 2022)

jwmelvin said:


> I like that setup a lot more than the expanding arbor. Using a boring head or a key seat cutter?


I’m going to bore it.
Stay tuned for my design. Don’t point and giggle when you see it. Be gentle.


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## jwmelvin (May 28, 2022)

Janderso said:


> I’m going to bore it.
> Stay tuned for my design. Don’t point and giggle when you see it. Be gentle.



Oh I didn’t look closely enough. I thought you were making an ID groove, so you might use a rotary table with a key seat cutter or a single point cutter in the boring head. With the piece fixed on the mill table, I guess you can bore and press in an insert to leave a glove gap?


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## Janderso (May 28, 2022)

This is not adequate but this is what I have. I don’t do anything like cad or fusion etc.
I’m still not sure what to do about the oring or sealing method.
I did notice there is a groove in the spindle. I can make it work but I can’t visualize it until I cut the bore fir the bushings.
Then I can put it together, figure out my next move before I machine the brass.
I will have a method to add lubrication and it will be shielded from grit.
One step at a time.
The bushing will be .625 wide and .200” thick. I am going to allow .001” clearance between the spindle and the bushings. As it is now there is probably.005”. Way too much!

I do have the bore coplanar with the base and both ends standing on the surface plate are within .001”. In other words, I’ve been careful with each step. I’m really trying to not screw it up.


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## Janderso (May 28, 2022)

That was easy.
Came out as expected. Surprise 
The finish is great, a little chatter but not an issue at all.

I have some planning to do for the next step.


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## DavidR8 (May 28, 2022)

Nicely done Jeff!


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## Janderso (May 29, 2022)

What a lazy day! The weather is perfect.
Spent a little time in the shop. I got the first side done.
Note to self. When you have a .001” fit, it will shrink the ID a bit.
I’ll have to lap the last .0006” or so to get that smooth perfect fit that I had when I fit the spindle to the bushing in the lathe.
Tomorrow I’ll finish this part of the project. I know fitting bushings is machinists class 101. It’s still a bit finicky.
Oh and the other thing I thought while I’m chewing up this beautiful brass, trepan. Next time….


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## NCjeeper (May 29, 2022)

Looking good. I need to get back on mine. I may have to do some of your mods if you end up liking them.


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## Janderso (May 30, 2022)

NCjeeper said:


> Looking good. I need to get back on mine. I may have to do some of your mods if you end up liking them.


I’m struggling with a way to deter grinding dust from entering the bore.
I’m leaning toward felt vs. o-rings. I think the felt ring would be an easier option.
If I choose the o-ring, I would cut a groove into the brass allowing for 20% compression.
See why the felt on both ends is the easier solution??


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## Janderso (May 30, 2022)

NCjeeper said:


> Looking good. I need to get back on mine. I may have to do some of your mods if you end up liking them.


I should mention, I saw a video where someone used 3D printed pulleys and an oring drive. The oring was cut to length from a roll and super glued!
I have a couple buddies with 3D printers and they know CAD! Not me


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## f350ca (May 30, 2022)

Janderso said:


> I’m struggling with a way to deter grinding dust from entering the bore.
> I’m leaning toward felt vs. o-rings. I think the felt ring would be an easier option.
> If I choose the o-ring, I would cut a groove into the brass allowing for 20% compression.
> See why the felt on both ends is the easier solution??


Air ?
I built this grinder for my thickness planer blades. The holder slides on linear ball bearings. Can't see it in the photo but I apply a couple of psi air into the housing. There are no mechanical seals, the slight air flow keeps the grit out. Been working great for a few years now. 
Need a beter grinder motor on it though, that Chinese piece of junk has no power and runs screaming hot.



Greg


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## wachuko (May 30, 2022)

^^ very cool setup!


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## Janderso (May 30, 2022)

f350ca said:


> Air ?
> I built this grinder for my thickness planer blades. The holder slides on linear ball bearings. Can't see it in the photo but I apply a couple of psi air into the housing. There are no mechanical seals, the slight air flow keeps the grit out. Been working great for a few years now.
> Need a beter grinder motor on it though, that Chinese piece of junk has no power and runs screaming hot.
> View attachment 408328
> ...


Air, why not?
Very cool


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## FOMOGO (May 30, 2022)

Love the planner blade sharpener setup. Have been considering something similar, if I ever get done working on the shop. Have been getting by with touching them up by hand with a 1000grit diamond stone. Mike



f350ca said:


> Air ?
> I built this grinder for my thickness planer blades.


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## NCjeeper (May 30, 2022)

Janderso said:


> I’m struggling with a way to deter grinding dust from entering the bore.


For as little as I will end up using mine, I am not sure if dust getting into the bore will be an issue. I can always wipe it out after I use it.


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## Just for fun (May 30, 2022)

Looking good Jeff,

Following along and learning!


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## ACHiPo (May 30, 2022)

Janderso said:


> I’m struggling with a way to deter grinding dust from entering the bore.
> I’m leaning toward felt vs. o-rings. I think the felt ring would be an easier option.
> If I choose the o-ring, I would cut a groove into the brass allowing for 20% compression.
> See why the felt on both ends is the easier solution??


Jeff,
How fancy do you wanna get?  An air purged labyrinth oughta keep grit outta there.
Evan
PS I just read f350’s post.  Great minds…


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## mmcmdl (May 30, 2022)

f350ca said:


> I built this grinder for my thickness planer blades. The holder slides on linear ball bearings.


That's pretty cool . I always wanted to make up a taper set-up for a lathe with one of the rodless cylinders I have down the basement . I think it could be done quite easily  .


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## Janderso (May 30, 2022)

NCjeeper said:


> For as little as I will end up using mine, I am not sure if dust getting into the bore will be an issue. I can always wipe it out after I use it.


You started me down this road. I’m leaning on simple. I have a lot more to do.
Eh, when it’s done it will sit on my shelf waiting for a project


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## Janderso (May 30, 2022)

mmcmdl said:


> That's pretty cool . I always wanted to make up a taper set-up for a lathe with one of the rodless cylinders I have down the basement . I think it could be done quite easily  .


No time like the present……


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## Janderso (May 30, 2022)

ACHiPo said:


> Jeff,
> How fancy do you wanna get?  An air purged labyrinth oughta keep grit outta there.
> Evan
> PS I just read f350’s post.  Great minds…


I’d like it to work well and produce accurate parts. Having the ability to reduce a part by a few thousandths with a ground finish will be pretty darn cool in a home shop.


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## mmcmdl (May 30, 2022)

Janderso said:


> No time like the present……


I actually pulled the pecker head off the BP late last night . Still wired 440 . I might rewire it today and hook it up to the VFD this evening .


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## jwmelvin (May 30, 2022)

Yea with this fixture it seems like you could disassemble and clean it each time pretty quickly and easily. 

For my mag chuck I put two seals on the handle shaft. One is a double-x ring in the bore and then an o-ring on the flange face.


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## Janderso (May 31, 2022)

jwmelvin said:


> Yea with this fixture it seems like you could disassemble and clean it each time pretty quickly and easily.
> 
> For my mag chuck I put two seals on the handle shaft. One is a double-x ring in the bore and then an o-ring on the flange face.


Once I attach the collar for preload, add the pulley and mount a knob or handle it may take a bit to remove the spindle for cleaning.
I’ll need to keep that in mind during the build.
A proper seal would be sweet.


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## jwmelvin (May 31, 2022)

Janderso said:


> Once I attach the collar for preload, add the pulley and mount a knob or handle it may take a bit to remove the spindle for cleaning.
> I’ll need to keep that in mind during the build.
> A proper seal would be sweet.


Good point. Do you have enough radial thickness in the bushing to put a thin double-x ring? I used a nominal 3/32" section, which required an 0.090" deep groove for the 0.103" seal. They come in 1/16" section, which would only require a 0.063" deep groove, up to 1.5" ID.


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## Janderso (May 31, 2022)

jwmelvin said:


> Good point. Do you have enough radial thickness in the bushing to put a thin double-x ring? I used a nominal 3/32" section, which required an 0.090" deep groove for the 0.103" seal. They come in 1/16" section, which would only require a 0.063" deep groove, up to 1.5" ID.


Ah, I’ll have to look that up. I don’t know what a double x ring is.

Yes, I ordered a couple. Thanks!


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## jwmelvin (May 31, 2022)

Janderso said:


> Ah, I’ll have to look that up. I don’t know what a double x ring is.


Here's the McMaster page. I just came across them looking for an o-ring to use. I had heard of x-rings, which are an evolution of o-rings, and these are a further evolution. They seem great.


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## Janderso (May 31, 2022)

jwmelvin said:


> Here's the McMaster page. I just came across them looking for an o-ring to use. I had heard of x-rings, which are an evolution of o-rings, and these are a further evolution. They seem great.


My dimensions need to be,
ID 1.773
OD 1.976

Do I have wiggle room? Do they stretch?
I think .125” thick would be fine.


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## jwmelvin (May 31, 2022)

Janderso said:


> Do I have wiggle room? Do they stretch?
> I think .125” thick would be fine.


I don't think I'd want to stretch it that much, but the bigger issue is that you'd have a tough time getting it assembled; you need the seal in the OD groove, and then push the shaft through, expanding the seal. With your dimensions, finding a seal seems difficult. Maybe the positive-pressure setup is a nice way to do it, accepting that an air line will be a little cumbersome.


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## Janderso (May 31, 2022)

jwmelvin said:


> I don't think I'd want to stretch it that much, but the bigger issue is that you'd have a tough time getting it assembled; you need the seal in the OD groove, and then push the shaft through, expanding the seal. With your dimensions, finding a seal seems difficult. Maybe the positive-pressure setup is a nice way to do it, accepting that an air line will be a little cumbersome.


You have a good grasp of my situation.
 I may play around with felt and a delrin retainer??
I don't know. I may just move on and get back to it later. Much to do yet.


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## jwmelvin (May 31, 2022)

What about a face seal? You can use an o- or c-ring like that. Edit: I see that the spindle doesn’t have much room for that. Maybe just a thin shield on the shoulder of the spindle (large washer) would cover the joint enough. 

Felt seems better than nothing but will trap grit and wear the shaft; at least that would be my concern. Though, if behind a shield, I imagine it would basically last a home shop forever without maintenance.


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## Janderso (May 31, 2022)

jwmelvin said:


> What about a face seal? You can use an o- or c-ring like that. Edit: I see that the spindle doesn’t have much room for that. Maybe just a thin shield on the shoulder of the spindle (large washer) would cover the joint enough.
> 
> Felt seems better than nothing but will trap grit and wear the shaft; at least that would be my concern. Though, if behind a shield, I imagine it would basically last a home shop forever without maintenance.


I agree, simple seems the way to go and you nailed it. This will serve me well for many years.


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## Ischgl99 (Jun 1, 2022)

Janderso said:


> My dimensions need to be,
> ID 1.773
> OD 1.976
> 
> ...


That’s 45mm ID, so it would be easy to find something in a metric size that will fit the shaft.  The OD is small for most seals of that shaft size, so you might need to use an o-ring.  McMaster doesn’t have the double x rings in metric, but you could get x ring cord stock and make exactly what you need.


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## jwmelvin (Jun 1, 2022)

Ischgl99 said:


> That’s 45mm ID, so it would be easy to find something in a metric size that will fit the shaft.



Goodness, seems so obvious now! Thanks for the guidance. This definitely seems like the easy button. I’d use a simple o-ring and not worry about possible benefits from an x-ring.


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## Ischgl99 (Jun 1, 2022)

jwmelvin said:


> Goodness, seems so obvious now! Thanks for the guidance. This definitely seems like the easy button. I’d use a simple o-ring and not worry about possible benefits from an x-ring.


I worked for German companies and with metric machines most of my career and got accustomed to seeing oddball imperial dimensions when someone converted a metric part to imperial, so any time I see inch dimensions that don’t fit a fractional size, I automatically check and see if it comes out to a whole number of millimeters.


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## Janderso (Jun 2, 2022)

Ischgl99 said:


> I worked for German companies and with metric machines most of my career and got accustomed to seeing oddball imperial dimensions when someone converted a metric part to imperial, so any time I see inch dimensions that don’t fit a fractional size, I automatically check and see if it comes out to a whole number of millimeters.


I don’t know why I fight the metric system. It’s so simple.
When a dimension says .5 or 6 x 28 mil. I have no idea what dimension that is.
But, if it’s a hex on a bolt, 7/16 or 12mm etc. is easy to understand as this comes from experience.
Old habits and all.


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## FOMOGO (Jun 2, 2022)

I see in the McMaster catalog that the also have a double x o-ring. Have always been a fan of triple XXX myself. Mike


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## Ischgl99 (Jun 2, 2022)

Janderso said:


> I don’t know why I fight the metric system. It’s so simple.
> When a dimension says .5 or 6 x 28 mil. I have no idea what dimension that is.
> But, if it’s a hex on a bolt, 7/16 or 12mm etc. is easy to understand as this comes from experience.
> Old habits and all.


I started working with the metric system shortly after graduating from college, so I am more used to that than imperial.  I find the metric system far easier than imperial for reverse engineering something, the nominal dimensions are almost always a whole mm.  The ISO tolerances make figuring out what bearing fits to use, shaft sizes for couplings, etc. very simple.


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## Janderso (Jun 2, 2022)

Ischgl99 said:


> I started working with the metric system shortly after graduating from college, so I am more used to that than imperial.  I find the metric system far easier than imperial for reverse engineering something, the nominal dimensions are almost always a whole mm.  The ISO tolerances make figuring out what bearing fits to use, shaft sizes for couplings, etc. very simple.


I noticed even on older machine tools the bearings often are standard metric sizes.
Shocking.


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## Ischgl99 (Jun 2, 2022)

Janderso said:


> I noticed even on older machine tools the bearings often are standard metric sizes.
> Shocking.


I think a lot of that came from the dominance of European companies making ball bearings, and they don't make much in inch sizes.  The founders of FAG Bearings developed the rolling machine that made balls a uniform size and roundness and started the widescale manufacturing of ball bearings.  Being German, they only made metric sizes.  Timken pretty much had the tapered roller bearing market cornered, so if something had tapered rollers, it was likely inch based.  Now there is plenty of competition with metric tapered roller bearings, so that seems to be changing to metric sizes as well.

I have a Burke Millrite and it uses inch tapers on the bottom of the spindle, but the upper ball bearings are metric I believe.


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## Janderso (Jun 2, 2022)

Made some progress today. I finished the bore. The spindle is smooth and has no wiggle as before.
I struggled with a way to keep the grit out of the front bushing. I think this will work just fine 

It's time to start working on mounting the spin indexer and the motor to a plate then figuring out the pulleys etc.


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## Janderso (Jun 5, 2022)

Made some progress today.
I’m making the pulleys. 
The tubes will be shorted to allow for maximum work capacity.
The 1/4” plate sucks up real tight when the magnet is applied.
By George, I think I’m going to pull this off.


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## Janderso (Jun 6, 2022)

Check out the quality on this jippo production spin indexer.
Thus is a kit, I’m fixing it as I go along but, come on.


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## jwmelvin (Jun 6, 2022)

Janderso said:


> Check out the quality on this jippo production spin indexer.
> Thus is a kit, I’m fixing it as I go along but, come on.


Wow. It's hard, right, so you can't just turn it true?


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## NCjeeper (Jun 6, 2022)

Looking good Jeff. I need to get back to working on mine.


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## Janderso (Jun 6, 2022)

jwmelvin said:


> Wow. It's hard, right, so you can't just turn it true?


It’s very manageable with carbide. I cleaned it up.
This piece is pinned then soldered I think.
I could clean up one side then touch up the other and it would move on me.
I cleaned up the side that matters most.

I should add, the spindle and the 5C collet closing tube have been shortened. I used a carbide cut off tool, blue chips

Making progress.


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## Janderso (Jun 7, 2022)

Made one of the o-ring pulleys this morning.
I see most of these fixtures use oring drives. I hope it doesn't slip.
If it does, back to the flat belt plan

Thanks to Jim Sehr for helping me with the form tool


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## Janderso (Jun 7, 2022)

NCjeeper said:


> Looking good Jeff. I need to get back to working on mine.


Hey buddy,
I see you went with the flat belts. Probably a good idea. I had the material to make the oring type pulley but I couldn't figure out how to make the flat cog pulley. I'm afraid it's going to slip.
I guess if I take .0002 - .0003" at a time I may be OK.
Where did you find the pulleys? The belt?

Thanks, Jeff


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## NCjeeper (Jun 7, 2022)

Hey Jeff. Ironic I started working on mine again. Working on adapting motor #3. But what a pain this has been. I got the pulleys and belt from McMaster-Carr. I went with 1/2 wide belt.


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## Janderso (Jun 9, 2022)

I am working on the pulleys. 
Bit by bit , it’s coming along.


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