# flux core (returned)



## SE18 (May 21, 2012)

Got a MIG/fluxcore. Been wanting to weld for years. Damn thing way to difficult to use. Spattered everywhere and a big gob flew back into the tip, permanently clogging it and preventing the wire from feeding. Returned it to the store. A friend who welds with stick and oxyacetyline tried it and didn't have any better result (he never used MIG or flux). 

At least I got a 220 outlet wired for it in the garage (but have no use for the outlet now). 

Is my experience typical?

I'm thinking stick or oxyacetyline would've been better. The MIG can only do 1/4", not recommended to use outdoors; the face mask darkens so much it's hard to see where you're welding, the spatter I mentioned. And, lastly to do 1/4 or 3/8 you need the co/argon tank dealy. So if you're going to have a tank, might as well be oxyacetyline?

Dave


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## jgedde (May 21, 2012)

Spatter with flux core is normal.  It's nowhere near as bad with gas shielding and non-flux wire.

As far as the gob, that's from technique or incorrect polarity setting.  Sounds like you had the wire feed rate set too low.

MIG is fairly easy, but it does require some practice....

Don't give up.

John


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## Tom Griffin (May 21, 2012)

Your choice of welder is highly dependent on what you intend to do with it. 

MIG works very well on light gauge metals and is the welder of choice for automotive sheet metal work; not with the flux coated wire though, you need a gas shield set-up for the best performance. Also, an auto darkening helmet makes it much easier to see when MIG welding.

Oxy-acetylene is good for light welding and especially good for welding tubing structures. It's also great to have around the shop for heating things up to make them easier to remove, exhaust work is a good example. It is also good for brazing and silver soldering. 

A stick welder would be a good choice for welding heavier and/or rusty metal. They work great for welding on architectural shapes like angle and channel.

Then there is TIG which is wonderful for welding just about any metal including stainless and aluminum, even gold if you are so inclined.

I have all four types in my shop and use them all pretty equally except for the stick welder which rarely gets touched.

Tom


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## Hawkeye (May 21, 2012)

As Tom pointed out, the settings matter, including polarity (Polarity for flux-core is opposite that for solid wire & gas). With a good welder, the settings shown in the chart that comes with it will be a good starting point. Most of my welding still uses the recommended settings. I use flux-core without gas exclusively, even though I have the gas bottle connected to the welder. It's just easier to turn on, use and shut down - my preference.

An experienced welder who has never learned MIG is an inexperienced welder (on MIG). Might actually be harder for him to learn because he will want to use the methods that have worked well for him for years. Starting from scratch, with nothing to unlearn, MIG is the easiest welding method to learn, if you're willing to follow the instructions. There are books and web sites that can help with the process.

I wouldn't want to be without my MIG/flux-core setup.


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## brt (May 21, 2012)

Hawkeye said:


> As Tom pointed out, the settings matter, including polarity (Polarity for flux-core is opposite that for solid wire & gas). With a good welder, the settings shown in the chart that comes with it will be a good starting point. Most of my welding still uses the recommended settings. I use flux-core without gas exclusively, even though I have the gas bottle connected to the welder. It's just easier to turn on, use and shut down - my preference.
> 
> An experienced welder who has never learned MIG is an inexperienced welder (on MIG). Might actually be harder for him to learn because he will want to use the methods that have worked well for him for years. Starting from scratch, with nothing to unlearn, MIG is the easiest welding method to learn, if you're willing to follow the instructions. There are books and web sites that can help with the process.
> 
> I wouldn't want to be without my MIG/flux-core setup.



I have a TIG/Stick/Plasma set up (http://www.everlastgenerators.com/PowerPro-256-3909-pd.html) + one of their auto-dark helmets, and am happy as could be. Use both stick (for fast rough steel-only welds) and TIG (for everything else). Haven't used the plazma cutter yet - but it looks pretty cool, too.

But I'm also thinking of getting a smallish MIG welder, just to round it out. I'm looking at this one: http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welders-175-amp-mig-welder-w-spool-gun.html
What do you folks think?


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## jumps4 (May 24, 2012)

I bought a roll of flux core wire some time back just to try
I'm glad i read this I didnt know to reverse the polarity for flux core
steve


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## Tenn (May 29, 2012)

I've always wanted a MIG welder and wondered about the flux core for simplicity. Does it make much difference if it's 110 V or 220 V ? Not sure I even know what I'm talking about as far as the 220 V ? The little 110V  plug in the wall anywhere one has appealed to my sense of simplicity. 

Any users that could give some input on what's a good one VS what NOT to buy ??


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## Hawkeye (May 29, 2012)

Chris,

As with any tooling, get the best you can afford. I started with a little Italian AC fluxcore unit that cost $80 new. Not many settings available, but it did get me started.

When I changed to a Hobart Handler 140, it was instant joy. It cost a lot more than the first one, but it was worth every penny. It is still a 120 volt welder, but uses a 20 amp supply for the heavier settings. Light work can be done with any 15 amp outlet. If you will often be welding 1/4" or thicker steel, consider a 240 volt unit. If 1/4" or heavier will be rare, 120 volt may be all you need.

Whyemier,

My manual says to use DCEN (DC Electrode Negative) for fluxcore and DCEP (DC Electrode Positive) for solid wire.


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## Tenn (May 30, 2012)

Thanks Hawkeye 
Good point on get the best you can afford !
Be a bit before I can "afford" anything but medical bills right now :headscratch: hew:


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## SE18 (May 30, 2012)

sorry, been away so haven't looked here.

the model was a Harbor Freight

They said that pretty soon they'll charge 33% restock fee for any tool that has been used

I got it returned right before the policy went into effect

At least I have a 220V wired in the garage now

Maybe I'll take some classes or something

Dave


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## nicky (May 30, 2012)

Hi guys. I started with a free $80.00 flux core welder too. It belonged to my son in law. Well when I started working on my 56 Studebaker I found it wouldn't weld thin metal like body steel. I too bought the Hobart 140 and love it. It came with flux core wire but had all the gas equipment with it. I bought a roll of the thinest wire for the machine and a bottle of gas. It took a bit of getting used to. Played with a couple of pieces of tin on the bench and seemed to get the hang of it. The first floor pan I made was for the drivers feet. The worst spot to try to weld, under the dash and under the steering column. I did not clean the old floor first and struggled quite a bit to keep the weld going/and keep from burning through. We slowly got the hang of it although that first weld did leave a lot to be desired. Did a lot of grinding. Once I had the body off the frame and onto the rotisserie I sand blasted the bottom and re-welded it from the bottom. What a difference it makes when the metal is spotless. You can see that weld below and in the thread for the 56 Studebaker restoration. So that was a lesson hard learned. So besides the right settings a spotless metal is just as important. That Hobart is a nice machine. 
For heavy metals I still use my old Lincoln stick welder the most. You can weld through rust and all kinds of junk with 6013.
Nick


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