# AXA or BXA Tool Post



## Janderso

I see the AXA is up to a 12" swing and the BXA is 10" and up?
I have a 13, will the AXA work for all my needs?
Struggling to find a tool post set-up I can live with.


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## woodchucker

bigger is always better, more rigid.
you should minimally do a BXA, You might even consider a CXA, since it is 13" up to 18"


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## Dave Paine

The Aloris catalog shows the height of bottom of the tool post (which is top of the compound) to spindle centre is
BXA = 3in
CXA = 3 1/2in

The Southbend spec sheet shows the distance from the top of the compound to the spindle centre is 1 5/8in.

You should be able to work with BXA or CXA, depending on the thickness of your tools.


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## benmychree

The CXA might be the better choice, but on the other hand, the BXA is going to be cheaper, and the holders also cheaper; the 13" SB is not exactly a heavy duty machine ---


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## derf

An AXA will only work if shim it up about 3/8" from the compound. I have a heavy 10" that came with an AXA, and when I got a 13", I wanted to have interchangeable tools so I made a shim spacer that took up the difference in height and used another AXA. That way I could interchange tools without adjusting the individual tools for each lathe. If I only had a 13", I would go with a BXA.


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## Janderso

That's why the Chinese tool post that came with my SB had a square washer under it. I wondered why it was there. I must have an AXA, cheap no name. 
I ordered the Phase 2 BXA. There are some good reviews and some not so good. As long as it works I will live with it. Mine is almost unusable.


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## Ray C

Careful folks:  If just enough is just right, then is too much even better?

A BXA works fine on most modern 14” machines with 3/8, ½ and 5/8” tools.   With some 13” machines, a 5/8” tool and BXA holders cannot be set low enough to function.  ½” tools will just about bottom-out the holder.    With a CXA on a 13” machine, you might be fairly close to limiting yourself to 3/8 tools or worse yet, need to trim down your ½ or 5/8 tools.   I often do machining at friend’s shop on a 16x60 lathe and a CXA fits comfortably.   I personally think CXA is way over-kill for a 13” machine.   I keep envisioning my 325lb uncle who drove around in a 1968 VW beetle.  It literally leaned to the driver side as it went down the road.

Another issue with large QCTPs on smaller machines, is that the drop-down projection of cutter position is very close (or possibly over-hanging) the left-most edge of the carriage.   This can cause really nasty cases of chatter  –even when taking light cuts.  Ideally, the cutting action should take place as close to the center of the carriage as possible.   This puts all the forces straight downward on the carriage.  With all the forces happening on the left side,  the right side lifts up, leading to a chatter condition.  Been there, done that –and scratched my head a good long while to solve that mystery.

Finally, a really large QCTP can create impossibly tight quarters when using the tailstock with a live center.   Most live centers are about 2.25” diameter.   You will not be able to get your cutter close to the workpiece because the QCTP body will hit the body of the live center.  Since you'll be limited to smaller size tooling, you now just shot yourself in the foot.

Summary:  13” machine + CXA is WAY too big.

Ray


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## Eddyde

Janderso said:


> That's why the Chinese tool post that came with my SB had a square washer under it. I wondered why it was there. I must have an AXA, cheap no name.
> I ordered the Phase 2 BXA. There are some good reviews and some not so good. As long as it works I will live with it. Mine is almost unusable.


I have a Phase-2, it works well enough for my and I assume most hobby, maintenance and non-production, shop work. 
The height adjusting screws on the tool holders need good tightening before adjusting and locking the nuts.


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## MrWhoopee

Eddyde said:


> I have a Phase-2, it works well enough for my and I assume most hobby, maintenance and non-production, shop work.
> The height adjusting screws on the tool holders need good tightening before adjusting and locking the nuts.



+1 on that. The screws on all of the tool holders that came with my Bostar AXA needed tightening.


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## middle.road

+1 to what RayC states. a CXA is just too darn big for 13" - Bigger is not always better.
I had a CXA that came with my 14" and I'm sorry you just can't take full advantage of the size tool bits a CXA can handle so there's the first compromise.
The Aloris BXA that I finally scored recently seems to me to be as Goldilocks stated - Just right.
And if you're hampered with budgeting issues a BXA is a lot cheaper to tool up...


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## Janderso

I just measured 3.125 to the top of the compound base. I will mount the BXA Phase 2 and check for overall fit.
Thanks


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## Ray C

middle.road said:


> +1 to what RayC states. a CXA is just too darn big for 13" - Bigger is not always better.
> I had a CXA that came with my 14" and I'm sorry you just can't take full advantage of the size tool bits a CXA can handle so there's the first compromise.
> The Aloris BXA that I finally scored recently seems to me to be as Goldilocks stated - Just right.
> And if you're hampered with budgeting issues a BXA is a lot cheaper to tool up...



About 10 years ago, there was an Atlas Lathe Forum that I used to frequently visit.   A new fellow showed-up one day insisting his 10" TH42 lathe needed an 8" chuck because his 5" chuck was totally clapped-out.   We advised him against it...  He had all the answers and told us how he measured the distance between spindle center and top of ways and there was room for it to fit.   He installed it as planned.  One slight problem.  When he mounted a 3/4" diameter rod in the chuck, the jaws were far enough out to hit the ways....

Bigger is not always better.   A 13" lathe needs a BXA at most and an AXA will work just fine too.  


Ray C.

Addendum:  A Hardinge 10EE is a 12.5" swing lathe (if I'm not mistaken).  The YouTube personality named RobRenz (who is probably the most meticulous T&D maker I've ever seen) has a 10EE and uses AXA holders.   -Food for thought.  BTW:  If you want to see the high-end level of manual T&D work, check-out some of RobRenz's videos.


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## MrWhoopee

Ray C said:


> About 10 years ago, there was an Atlas Lathe Forum that I used to frequently visit.   A new fellow showed-up one day insisting his 10" TH42 lathe needed an 8" chuck because his 5" chuck was totally clapped-out.   We advised him against it...  He had all the answers and told us how he measured the distance between spindle center and top of ways and there was room for it to fit.   He installed it as planned.  One slight problem.  When he mounted a 3/4" diameter rod in the chuck, the jaws were far enough out to hit the ways....
> 
> Bigger is not always better.



That's what I tried to tell her.....

This is why I bought a 6 in. 4-jaw for my Heavy 10


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## Janderso

I received my new Phase 2 QCTP Today!!
I took it out of the package and immediately I had concerns. The size is noticeably larger, the finish is very good IMHO and compared to the tool that came with the lathe, (1941 13" single South Bend). I also noticed the base mount is too large to fit in the compound.
I was glad to see the BXA will allow all the quick change tools to mount properly with the correct alignment to center.
All in all I am happy with this purchase.
It looks like I have a small project for the Bridgeport.
Please see the pics.
Thank you for the help. I was going to order an AXA until I read the forum. The BXA is robust and should perform well for me.


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## .LMS.

Ray C said:


> Another issue with large QCTPs on smaller machines, is that the drop-down projection of cutter position is very close (or possibly over-hanging) the left-most edge of the carriage.   This can cause really nasty cases of chatter  –even when taking light cuts.  Ideally, the cutting action should take place as close to the center of the carriage as possible.   This puts all the forces straight downward on the carriage.  With all the forces happening on the left side,  the right side lifts up, leading to a chatter condition.  Been there, done that –and scratched my head a good long while to solve that mystery.
> 
> Ray



Man, this really makes a lot of sense.   As soon as I hit "post reply", I am going to go move how I have mine mounted.   When I was mounting my Phase II, I centered the body on my carriage - it just seemed like a natural choice.   Noob mistake!    Thanks Ray.


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## Ray C

.LMS. said:


> Man, this really makes a lot of sense.   As soon as I hit "post reply", I am going to go move how I have mine mounted.   When I was mounting my Phase II, I centered the body on my carriage - it just seemed like a natural choice.   Noob mistake!    Thanks Ray.



I'm glad it was helpful..

Here you go...  In the 1st picture, the compound is set at the typical 30 degrees and is cranked all the way forward.   Look straight down from my fingertip; it lines-up with the left-most edge of the carriage.  The extended compounded is acting like a leverage arm.  This extreme position can be a source of chatter because the forces pushing down on the left side are trying to lift the right side of the carriage upward.   You will most commonly hear a humming sound that can range in intensity when face cutting.   The problem less frequently happens when doing normal side cuts because, the motive forces being applied to the carriage help overcome the vibration that sets-up when carriage is stationary.



With the compound cranked back, you're in safe territory.  BTW:  I keep a little piece of cardboard, held by magnets, to cover the ways on the compound.  You don't have to crank back all the way like this, it's just for demonstration purposes.  Just move it back enough to stop chatter if the situation ever arises.



Ray C.


EDIT:  BTW, this problem will get worse when using oversized toolposts.   A CXA on a 12 or 13" lathe will keep the cutting edge almost an inch further forward than a BXA.


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## Janderso

I used the Bridgeport to machine the base to fit proper. I mounted the new holder and adjusted the elevation for correct cutting tool vertical alignment.
I had the clocking right but now that I loosened the jaws to inspect for debris and properly clean and oil the qctp I need to find the sweet spot. I’m tired. I’m going inside.
Pics tomorrow.


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## Janderso

I am very impressed with this Phase 2. Please consider I am very inexperienced with these. I used the old style about 30+ years ago. Very clean, not the usual dirty poor casting and finishing. This overseas product is acceptable considering it's about 75% less than that other domestic QCTP.
(The pic of the tool touching the spindle center line is just for measurement purposes)
My first real project on the Bridgeport.


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## Nogoingback

I bought my Phase II a couple of years ago and have been completely satisfied with it.  One thing I found though is that they 
didn't clean or lube mine very well.  After taking it apart, a session in the solvent tank and some lube, it worked much better.


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## Janderso

Did you struggle with clocking on the release lever? When I first installed it before I cleaned and oiled it, the clocking was perfect. Last night before I gave up I was struggling with getting the right position.
I'll work on that this evening.
I am looking forward to making some chips with this new tool post. This one allows for tightening the retaining nut and the tool tightening lever stiil moves!
My old one did not allow for this simple feature. It's going in the scrap heap.
Oh, should I replace the set screws that hold the cutting tools? I read somewhere they use sub standard set screws but I don't know if Phase 2 applies.
Thanks for the help!
Jeff


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## Nogoingback

When I re-assembled mine I remember spending some time figuring that out before I got it right.
 It's been a while, and I don't remember the details so I can't give you any particular advice other than
to keep at it.  You'll get it. 

I know folks have said the screws are no good, though I'm not sure why.  I'd skip it: you can always replace
them later if you think you need to.


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## Janderso

I figured it out after a nights rest. I just backed off so the jaws released, turned 180 degrees and drew the jaws back in. Perfect. Having one of these QCTP that works correctly is a wonder to behold. That and 12L14 makes me look like I know what I am doing


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## middle.road

Ray C said:


> ...trimmed...
> Another issue with large QCTPs on smaller machines, is that the drop-down projection of cutter position is very close (or possibly over-hanging) the left-most edge of the carriage.   This can cause really nasty cases of chatter  –even when taking light cuts.  Ideally, the cutting action should take place as close to the center of the carriage as possible.   This puts all the forces straight downward on the carriage.  With all the forces happening on the left side,  the right side lifts up, leading to a chatter condition.  Been there, done that –and scratched my head a good long while to solve that mystery.
> ........
> Ray


I knew I read something about this recently...
Finally got the 'new to me' BXA mounted this week. First cut was a couple of nights ago. And I've got chatter. 
WTH?!?!? It's an Aloris for crying out loud. OK stand back, analyze this, has to be operator error. No luck. 
I've been irritated the last two days. Ready to put the AXA back on. 
Now I see. Anyone wanna place a bet that it's hanging to the left? Guess where I'm headed after I post?
Owe Ray a crafted high quality adult beverage for sure.


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## Ray C

middle.road said:


> I knew I read something about this recently...
> Finally got the 'new to me' BXA mounted this week. First cut was a couple of nights ago. And I've got chatter.
> WTH?!?!? It's an Aloris for crying out loud. OK stand back, analyze this, has to be operator error. No luck.
> I've been irritated the last two days. Ready to put the AXA back on.
> Now I see. Anyone wanna place a bet that it's hanging to the left? Guess where I'm headed after I post?
> Owe Ray a crafted high quality adult beverage for sure.



Let's hold off on the liquid salute till after the technique gives good results...

Appreciate the offer nonetheless.

Ray


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## Bamban

The technique works, check out the pictures

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...combination-chuck-is-alive.68493/#post-573414


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## Ray C

middle.road said:


> I knew I read something about this recently...
> Finally got the 'new to me' BXA mounted this week. First cut was a couple of nights ago. And I've got chatter.
> WTH?!?!? It's an Aloris for crying out loud. OK stand back, analyze this, has to be operator error. No luck.
> I've been irritated the last two days. Ready to put the AXA back on.
> Now I see. Anyone wanna place a bet that it's hanging to the left? Guess where I'm headed after I post?
> Owe Ray a crafted high quality adult beverage for sure.




Well Dan, did things improve?   Did you get the vibration under control?

If not, let me know the status and we can try and work it out.   

Ray


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## middle.road

Ray C said:


> Well Dan, did things improve?   Did you get the vibration under control?
> 
> If not, let me know the status and we can try and work it out.
> 
> Ray


Thanks Ray!
I went out into the shop Thursday night, and yep it was a bit to the left, I adjusted it to the right and moved the compound back about a 1/2" from flush.
Then the phone rang and I was tied up the rest of the night and Friday.
The plan is to get into the shop this afternoon and make some test cuts.
I've got the compound at 45°.
I'll get some picts taken.


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## Ray C

middle.road said:


> Thanks Ray!
> I went out into the shop Thursday night, and yep it was a bit to the left, I adjusted it to the right and moved the compound back about a 1/2" from flush.
> Then the phone rang and I was tied up the rest of the night and Friday.
> The plan is to get into the shop this afternoon and make some test cuts.
> I've got the compound at 45°.
> I'll get some picts taken.



FWIW:  I usually leave my compound at 30 degrees.   Your lathe (and personal preferences) may be different but, on my lathe, it does not get in the way of the tailstock as much.    Also, if your compound holds the QCTP with a large T-nut that can be slid from side-to-side, try to keep it somewhat centered.  You can move it around a little of course but, pushing more than 1/2 way off center causes a different set of problems.


Ray


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## middle.road

Ray C said:


> FWIW:  I usually leave my compound at 30 degrees.   Your lathe (and personal preferences) may be different but, on my lathe, it does not get in the way of the tailstock as much.    Also, if your compound holds the QCTP with a large T-nut that can be slid from side-to-side, try to keep it somewhat centered.  You can move it around a little of course but, pushing more than 1/2 way off center causes a different set of problems.
> 
> Ray


Noob question for clarification. 'A' or 'B'? 
I'm Assuming 'A'. But you know what happens when you assume. 
About to attempt (for the Third time today) to get out in the shop. Been in it four times already but that was to grab some tools to help the neighbor with his RV - which is spouting water all over the place. And it's 44° here today, -BLECH-


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## Ray C

middle.road said:


> Noob question for clarification. 'A' or 'B'?
> I'm Assuming 'A'. But you know what happens when you assume.
> About to attempt (for the Third time today) to get out in the shop. Been in it four times already but that was to grab some tools to help the neighbor with his RV - which is spouting water all over the place. And it's 44° here today, -BLECH-
> View attachment 264387



I personally tend to leave it at position A unless there's some other reason not to.   -Not saying that's the correct way based on some mechanical reasoning...  On my lathe, it gives good clearance for the tailstock and the corner of the leading edge is not protruding steeply into the chuck.

Ray


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## middle.road

Quick run - _no_ chatter*!* Compound is still at 45°. I didn't change the angle because the one hold-down nut is still a concern.
I may attempt to rework that tonight. May not succeed but it's good to have hope. - hehe
Tried it on a piece of 1" DIA. round and a hunk of 1" DIA. Tube.
Attached picture is of the solid round.
The grooves marked in red were the cuts I made a couple of days ago.
And I'm feeling that if I get it rotated to 30° it's be even better.


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## Ray C

middle.road said:


> Quick run - _no_ chatter*!* Compound is still at 45°. I didn't change the angle because the one hold-down nut is still a concern.
> I may attempt to rework that tonight. May not succeed but it's good to have hope. - hehe
> Tried it on a piece of 1" DIA. round and a hunk of 1" DIA. Tube.
> Attached picture is of the solid round.
> The grooves marked in red were the cuts I made a couple of days ago.
> And I'm feeling that if I get it rotated to 30° it's be even better.



If you were extending the piece from inside the spindle as you made test cuts then, problem solved.   If you had that long piece sticking-out as you made test cuts and if it was not supported with center from the tailstock then, you will always get chatter as you make cuts further away from the jaws.   That's a fact of life.

Anyhow, glad you finally got into the shop today.

Ray


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## middle.road

Oh yeah, had it close in and moved it out as I was making cuts, so not more than an inch to 1-1/2".
On the tube, I even had the live center engaged before and it still chattered. 
And as you've mentioned before, I believe that I need to go over my gibs.


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## Ray C

middle.road said:


> Oh yeah, had it close in and moved it out as I was making cuts, so not more than an inch to 1-1/2".
> On the tube, I even had the live center engaged before and it still chattered.
> And as you've mentioned before, I believe that I need to go over my gibs.



So, has the vibration improved somewhat? 

Ray


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## middle.road

Ray C said:


> So, has the vibration improved somewhat?
> 
> Ray


Much better! A tad of noise when I tried out the tube but it was very minor compared to first run a couple of days ago.
No noise at all on the solid round, and I didn't even have the live center engaged.
So it does definitely improve performance.
I just noticed that I need to post a 'straight-on' shot of the carriage. It strikes me as rather light on the head side.
I need to redo the hold-down nuts for the compound and then I'm going to rotate it to 30° and try that out also.


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## MrWhoopee

middle.road said:


> Noob question for clarification. 'A' or 'B'?
> I'm Assuming 'A'. But you know what happens when you assume.
> About to attempt (for the Third time today) to get out in the shop. Been in it four times already but that was to grab some tools to help the neighbor with his RV - which is spouting water all over the place. And it's 44° here today, -BLECH-
> View attachment 264387


Rotation of the compound seems to fall into three schools of thought. Harry taught us to leave it at  29.5 deg. from 90 (position A) for purposes of threading. School #2 likes to leave it parallel to the axis of the lathe to allow precision movement along the x axis without a DRO or indicator. School #3 just doesn't care and leaves it wherever.


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## middle.road

I'm going to try out the 30° - once I can trust my nuts.
The 29.5° system, seems to me, to hark back to lantern post days.
Joe Pies's upside down and straight on and away from the headstock is working out much better for me. YMMV.


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## Baja_Dude

Greetings, I have a Precision Matthews 1236T lathe and am looking for the best QCTP for that machine. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.


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## MikeInOr

Baja_Dude said:


> Greetings, I have a Precision Matthews 1236T lathe and am looking for the best QCTP for that machine. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.


I have a BXA tool post from Shars on my SB 13.  I am very pleased with it.  It should work well on your PM 12".


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## matthewsx

BXA

Best depends on your budget.


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## davidpbest

Baja_Dude said:


> Greetings, I have a Precision Matthews 1236T lathe and am looking for the best QCTP for that machine. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.


I run a Dorian BXA tool post on my PM-1340GT and am very happy with it.  Should fit your 1236 just fine.  The Dorian is certainly a long term investment, but the repeatability of tool position is outstanding.  So if you're thinking of using the tool offset library function on the DRO, repeatability is an important factor.  DM me if you have questions on this.


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## Just for fun

I have the BXA setup from Precision Matthews on my 1236T and it seems to be pretty nice.  Take that with a grain of salt though as I am new to machining and don't have anything to compare it to.  But I can recognize high quality products and for the money I am happy with what I have.


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## Baja_Dude

Thank you both, this has been very helpful!


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## StevSmar

I wish I’d known about Multifix tool holders before I purchased my (knock off) BXA. Not having to swivel the holder body around seems like it would be very helpful.


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## Baja_Dude

StevSmar, do you have a link to that site?


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## Baja_Dude

matthewsx said:


> BXA
> 
> Best depends on your budget.


You are correct on the budget point, but the old adage of 'buy once, cry once' will apply here since the tool post affects almost every aspect of the lathe.


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## StevSmar

Baja_Dude said:


> StevSmar, do you have a link to that site?


Here’s a video on Abom79 fitting a multifix to his lathe:





I did find an actual Swiss made one (apparently) from here:
https://www.penntoolco.com/swiss-multiquick-40-position-quick-change-tool-holder-for-all-lathes/


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## Baja_Dude

StevSmar said:


> Here’s a video on Abom79 fitting a multifix to his lathe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did find an actual Swiss made one (apparently) from here:
> https://www.penntoolco.com/swiss-multiquick-40-position-quick-change-tool-holder-for-all-lathes/


Thanks StevSmar, very informative!


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## StevSmar

Baja_Dude said:


> Thanks StevSmar, very informative!


Of course the Swiss made ones are a bit out of my price range.

Here’s a Chinese one:
http://www.createtool.com/list.asp?cid=33

And a German made one that Stephan G is using:https://www.top-maschinen.de/maschi...zeuge/multifix-schnellwechselstahlhalter.html
Which he talks about to the end of this video:





I also found this link on the Model Engineers forum where different vendors are discussed:
https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=168996&p=2

(As you can tell, if I had my time again I’d probably go the Multifix route, though I need to stick with my BXA since there are other things I’d like such as a rotary table etc. etc. etc.)


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## Christianstark

Old thread, new question.

Has anyone else had an issue with getting a boring bar high enough with a BXA on a PM1340GT? 

I had to bore some 5/8 holes, and all I have is a 1/2 drill, and then a 3/4. I have a 3/8 boring bar, but when I put that in a 200 series holder, I am still not on center after raising the holder as high as it will go. For my boring bar holder, I have to raise it all the way to the top to get my bar to the correct height, and that only takes 1/2 and 3/4 bars. Is this just because I am on the edge of a size change?

I know I could shim the 3/8 bar, but I’d rather not. Maybe take 1/4 off the top?

Second, I really have to crank the holder down to make it so it does not want to turn with heavier cuts like parting steel or knurling. Any pointers on making the base more secure on the cross slide?


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## davidpbest

Christianstark said:


> Old thread, new question.
> 
> Has anyone else had an issue with getting a boring bar high enough with a BXA on a PM1340GT?
> 
> I had to bore some 5/8 holes, and all I have is a 1/2 drill, and then a 3/4. I have a 3/8 boring bar, but when I put that in a 200 series holder, I am still not on center after raising the holder as high as it will go. For my boring bar holder, I have to raise it all the way to the top to get my bar to the correct height. Is this just because I am on the edge of a size change?
> 
> I know I could shim the 3/8 bar, but I’d rather not. Maybe take 1/4 off the top?


Suggestion:  make an elevation fixture rather than shim or modify the holder.  See attached (this is for an Aloris #71 parting tool but works just the same for a boring bar QC toolholder).


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## benmychree

Perhaps make a spacer under the tool post.


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## MrWhoopee

Rotation of the TP while knurling is a very common problem with a bump knurling tool. If you can generate that much pressure while parting you're a braver man than I.


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## Christianstark

I part using power feed. Even tool steels cut well like that but I had the tool post turn on me once. The tool post that came with the lathe had a pin that would prevent that, but the bxa is just held down by a single through bolt. I repurposed the handle and bolt that came with the lathe. Maybe I should make a new bolt and handle with finer threads and or a longer handle to improve my mechanical advantage.


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## Just for fun

What tool holder do you have?  I have the PM quick change tool holder; it's been a while since I looked at it but if I remember correctly the hold down bolt is larger than the stock unit.  You are not bottoming out on the large T-nut that's in the compound are you?


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## Christianstark

Just for fun said:


> What tool holder do you have?  I have the PM quick change tool holder; it's been a while since I looked at it but if I remember correctly the hold down bolt is larger than the stock unit.  You are not bottoming out on the large T-nut that's in the compound are you?



It’s a Bostar BXA. I cut the T to be just below the level of the compound.


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## Ben A Gonna

Hello All
I realize  I'm late to the tool post party.  Getting a 15 in South bend ready for paint, and would appreciate your suggestions,  or thoughts as to what , or which  QCTP, to use on this old lathe. Reading some of the earlier posts, you all seem to have been there done that.  My experience  is with the old rocker style post and the old L/H. R/H  and straight tool holders.

Thank you.


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## Dabbler

@Ben A Gonna I still use my American Rocker tool post from time to time.  75% of the time I use my 4-way tool posts.  So much that I have purchased 4-way tool posts for my lathe that didn't have one (I have 3 lathes, 12X37", 14X40" and a 15X60").

But I also own Aloris-style QCTP for all my lathes (a genuine one for the big lathe), and a Dixon tool post for my 15" lathe.

You can do good work with HSS on your rocker, so I wouldn't be in a rush.  I am arranging a borrow of every type and size tool post to see which ones are more or less rigid, and what the repeatability of the various types are.  I am recovering from a bad auto accident and then Covid, so things have... slowed down.

I'm working towards making my initial findings available by spring.


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## Ben A Gonna

Thanks Dabbler
Sorry to hear about the auto accident,  and the covid, that crap was no fun. Have used the older tooling for years, and dont have to be in a hurry,  just wanted to update a few things,  maybe make things more simple. 

Best wishes .


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## Eyerelief

I have an Aloris CXA wedge type on my 16”.  I couldn’t be happier. Lots of CXA size holders can be had at great prices on eBay if you are patient 
As @Dabbler noted, plenty of good work can be done with a rocker as well.


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## Downunder Bob

I use a BXA QCTP on my 12" lathe. It's the right size, I have not found a tool that has a height problem so it's perfect for me.


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## benmychree

I'd say CXA, AXA would be too small.


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## Ben A Gonna

I think CXA covers 13 to 18 in .  But I have not looked lately. 
Thanks guys


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