# Stuck Chuck...



## jduncan (Oct 2, 2012)

Howdy,

I have a 13" with a stuck chuck.  I guess it sat at the vocation school I purchased it from for too long.  I have tried a bar with a rubber mallet to no avail.  Since this chuck is mounted on a faceplate, can I just remove the chuck from it so I can get at the spindle nose?

Here is the chuck:




It attaches from the back with allen head screws.  I'm not used to handling this sized equipment and this being my only chuck, don't want to break it!  The other chuck that came with my machine is for a 14".


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## 12bolts (Oct 2, 2012)

Penetrating oil (various people here have their own ideas about formulas and brands) and perhaps a little bit of heat. Let the oil soak for a few days. Lock the spindle. I use a hardwood timber across the jaws for leverage. I would leave the chuck on the faceplate untill you get the chuck off the spindle. Dont hammer on the chuck key or use it for leverage for that matter.
Good luck. Is this going to be a rebuild? Oh and make sure you post up pics of the rest of the lathe.

Cheers Phil


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## jduncan (Oct 2, 2012)

A partial rebuild, depending on what I find as I go through the most needy areas first.  If I can get it loose I doubt I will remove it from the plate.  Wouldn't that upset the alignment?


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## Bill Gruby (Oct 2, 2012)

Need another picture where the chuck mounts to the spindle. It looks it but are you sure it screws to the spindle?

 "Billy G"  :thinking:


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## Rbeckett (Oct 2, 2012)

Is thiis the same lathe you were talking about in the other thread?  I would consult the owners manual first if available.  Then the co. website and confirm that it is supposed to thread.  Since it has a drive plate it may not.  Don't know enuff bout that brand to speak inteligently really.  Just be very carefull beating on anything with a hammer.  You could do more damage than good if you go about it wrong.  Is it supposed to be a left or right hand thread is also another consideration.  As far as removing the chuck from the face plate, I would just make sure and mark it so I got everything back into the same holes that they were originally in.  Once you get that going, you should Mike out the chuck, faceplate and rest of the machine so you have baseline measurements early on and can compare them over time to guage any wear that may occur.  Just my opinion, but thats how I would pursue the issue.
Bob


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## 7HC (Oct 2, 2012)

jduncan said:


> Howdy,
> 
> I have a 13" with a stuck chuck.  I guess it sat at the vocation school I purchased it from for too long.  I have tried a bar with a rubber mallet to no avail.  Since this chuck is mounted on a faceplate, can I just remove the chuck from it so I can get at the spindle nose?



I can't help you, but I'm sure someone else will be able to if you post some pics of the whole lathe, and specifically some of the headstock and the area at the rear of the chuck.


M


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## jduncan (Oct 2, 2012)

It is definitely threaded.  Specs call it 2 1/4x 8.  I put penetrant on it last night so we'll see.  I'll take more photos tomorrow.


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## Old Iron (Oct 2, 2012)

It is a 2 1/4x 8 tpi same as mine, When I got it there was a face plate stuck on it but it was easer to get off than a stuck chuck.

The only stuck chuck I've taken off was on my ATW 20 X 60 I cut a wedge out of oak and jammed it under the bull gear so I could use force to get it off.

However I don't think we can do that on these south bends.

Paul


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## AR1911 (Oct 3, 2012)

Lock it in backgear
Clamp a 4-ft length of pipe in the jaws such that it hangs out horizontally from the front of the lathe
Hang a bucket on the pipe.
Fill the bucket with heavy scrap.
Go to bed.

If the bucket isn't on the floor the next day, spray more penetrant, then tap around it with a hammer.
Careful application of heat is also useful - heat gun, even an electric hotplate under the chuck. Anything to break the mechanical grip of chuck to spindle so that penetrant can enter.
Check back the next day.


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## jduncan (Oct 3, 2012)

I'll try the bucket method and more Kroil.  Thanks for the suggestion!


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## jduncan (Oct 3, 2012)

I am happy to say that the chuck came loose easily today, after a day or so of soaking in Kroil.  The threads were dirty but I am taking care of that issue.

Thanks for all the suggestions!


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## HSS (Oct 3, 2012)

John, that isn't a face plate, that is the back side of the scroll and the allen cap screws hold it together. Try tightening a length of 2X4 lumber across the jaws, spray penetrating spray into the threads where possible and spin the chuck backward by hand letting the board hit the bed on the backside. Thats how I loosen the chucks on my 13" Southbend.
Pat


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## jduncan (Oct 3, 2012)

HSS, we were posting at the same time!  LOL.  I got it loose, thankfully.


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## HSS (Oct 4, 2012)

Glad to hear it John. I tore my four jaw down a couple of years ago to clean it up and just recently put it back together. My 3 jaw went back together soon after I tore it down for cleaning. I've gotten where I like my 4 jaw better cause the jaws on the 3 jaw are bell mouthed. I dont have a toolpost grinder.......yet.

Pat


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## jduncan (Oct 5, 2012)

I need to get a four jaw eventually.  The one I got in the deal is a "4210" and so fits a larger lathe.


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## petersenonmain (Jan 20, 2013)

Kroil oil is an excellent penetrating oil and it will stand a fair amount of heat and it has a tendency to wick into the threads when heat is applied.  The problem is normally a stuck chuck is in a mechanical bind between the spindle nose and the back plate and if you try to take it off while hot it doesn't work.  When I have had this problem I put a 2X6 across the ways and a 2X4 as a post to go against the jaw on the back side of the chuck then I used a strap wrench (don't use a chain wrench unless you have a whole lot of cushioning) on the biggest pulley and went to the back side with as big a leaver as I can find and pull like the devil.  I have never found a chuck that I could not get off.   That is of course if it is a screw on chuck.  South Bend did make some cam lock lathes but I assume that you have already looked at that.


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## jduncan (Jan 20, 2013)

Kroil is super good stuff for sure.  In the time since I got it loose, I've had the chuck on and off several times with no problems.  I make sure to put oil on the threads and make sure there are no chips hiding in the threads.  Welcome to the forum!!


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## Splat (Feb 5, 2013)

Check my thread *here*. My chuck was frozen bad and after much reading and asking around I found a method on another site (IIRC). No broken back gears using this method either. This method's considered by many as possibly the best, safest method for removing a frozen chuck. Good luck with it. You'll get it.


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## HMF (Feb 21, 2013)

Another method I just read about:

Lathe chuck removal    Stuck chuck removal


I have a method of removing the chuck that has worked for me every time, without fail.  Furthermore, it cannot hurt the back gears, or anything else for that matter.  Here it is:


1)  Open the chuck jaws so there is an inch, or somewhat more, of jaw protruding from the chuck body.  Don't allow the jaws to have more than half their length protruding.  
2)  Rotate the chuck so that a jaw on the far side of the chuck sticks out horizontally.
3)  Measure the distance from the bottom of the jaw to the top of the ways. 
4)  Take a sturdy hardwood block---2" X 4" will do--and cut it to the length that you measured in step 3. You will only need to make one block for as long as you have the lathe.  Save it for future use.
5)  Stand the block next to the chuck , vertically, on the lathe's far side ways. 
6)  Rotate the chuck as far as you can toward you without a jaw knocking the block off.
7)  Now, in the reverse direction, spin the chuck by hand as hard and as fast as you can so that a protruding jaw slams down on the block.  The inertia of the spindle will tend to loosen the threads. 
8)  Repeat 6 & 7 a couple of times.
9)  If the chuck has not freed up, yet, rotate the chuck to let the next jaw and slam it against the block.  Repeat.
10) Continue working around the chuck from jaw to jaw as long as needed and eventually you'll "walk" it loose in the same manner that a heavy cut walked--or worked--the threads tight in the first place.  


It takes longer to explain it than it does to do it.  Unless the threads are rusted stuck; or, seized from dried oil and grease, it will come off.  After getting a stubborn chuck off for the very first time, subsequent removals should be relatively easy.  


I've encountered lathes that have set unused for 50 years.  Everywhere, the grease and oil had hardened and set up almost like LocTite.  I had no choice but to use heat until the metal was just barely too hot to touch; but, it was enough to soften the crud.    


I have never used the back gears to remove a chuck and I've never broken a back gear tooth; but, I've owned a whole lot of lathes that had broken teeth when I bought them.


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