# My Used - Newly Acquired - BANDSAW



## AdvenJack (Dec 13, 2019)

Brand new guy here. Post 1 was in the New Guys section. I'm going to build an open sailboat.
After much research, I concluded that a BANDSAW that can cut wood a tad less than 6" tall, 
would be able to cut planks from typical 2x6 boards of 16 feet length. I'll be making scarf joints 
aplenty! The planks will be 0.25 of an inch thick, 5.5 inches tall, and longest length will be 16".
(I've learned the woodworking term "RESAWING" as a result of my "digging", as opposed to 
"RIPPING" and "CROSS CUTTING".) I'll be using a blade with 3 TPI more or less. I am hoping 
to have someone, or more than one of you all, who knows the DELTA Model 28-195 BANDSAW 
(so-called 10 inch model) to meet me someplace and look over this unit that I recently bought,
finding it on Craig's List. I'll buy lunch for your trouble! Please send a PM to me if you can help.
Thanks very much!  
Jack


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## ezduzit (Dec 13, 2019)

I would not expect much from this saw, certainly not resawing 6" boards.


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## T Bredehoft (Dec 13, 2019)

Check here, sounds like a hobby saw with problems






						Amazon.com: Customer reviews: DELTA 28-195 10-Inch Band Saw with Stand
					

Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for DELTA 28-195 10-Inch Band Saw with Stand at Amazon.com.  Read honest and unbiased product reviews from our users.



					www.amazon.com


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## DavidR8 (Dec 13, 2019)

If I were you I would pass on that saw. 
Find a decent used cast iron 12” or 14” saw.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## C-Bag (Dec 14, 2019)

DavidR8 said:


> If I were you I would pass on that saw.
> Find a decent used cast iron 12” or 14” saw.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


+1

14" is the most common bandsaw because it's been made by so many different makers and they all seem to use the same parts so they are plentiful and CHEAP.


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## NortonDommi (Dec 14, 2019)

First off, Welcome.
                                That was about the crappiest greeting to a new member ever! 
 Those little saws are great for small stuff like trim and cabinetry but I think you will pushing it to destruction with the amount of work you need to do to build a boat.  14" is about the minimum needed and with that comes some power and accuracy.
  Here is a really good site with a lot of good solid information and tips from a master shipwright:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClPa3pmqKwApysaYi7B7Nlg  Well worth a look.
  I wouldn't ditch your new saw either as everything can be made better and the fact that you can move them around easily makes them very useful in any shop.


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## ezduzit (Dec 14, 2019)

NortonDommi said:


> ...I wouldn't ditch your new saw...



Actually now would be the time to get rid of it and start fresh with a tool that is capable of doing the work you are planning. Ask questions first, before buying.


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## Martin W (Dec 14, 2019)

Jack, welcome here.
I don't think there is a person on here who hasn't bought a tool or machine that wasn't quite up to the task.

 I am not sure of the specs on this saw but I am sure you can get use from it. It should cut scarf joints easily and cross cut. A resaw takes a lot of horse power to cut, especially 6" tall. A resaw has an aggressive tooth angle with deep gullets so the wood has a place to go as you cut. Cutting 16' long will be very hard without the blade wandering on a small saw.

I bet there is a millwork or cabinet shop or sawmill in your area that could do this for you to get your pieces and then you take it from there.

Cheers
Martin


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## Eddyde (Dec 14, 2019)

I ran a custom woodworking shop for many years and have a lot of experience resawing lumber on a bandsaw. Sorry to say that machine will not work for what you want to do. At the very least a 14" vintage "Delta" or equivalent (all cast iron) with a minimum 1hp motor (2hp would be ideal). The machine will need to be tuned-up well. I suggest upgrading the blade guides with graphite impregnated phenolic "Cool Blocks" and polyurethane tires for the wheels. use the widest blade the saw will handle, think its ¾" for those machines but 1" would be better. A well designed fence and jig for making the joint will also be necessary.
Alternately you can make that joint with a power hand plane and a jig. Might be a lot easier that way.


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## BGHansen (Dec 14, 2019)

AdvenJack said:


> Brand new guy here. Post 1 was in the New Guys section. I'm going to build an open sailboat.
> After much research, I concluded that a BANDSAW that can cut wood a tad less than 6" tall,
> would be able to cut planks from typical 2x6 boards of 16 feet length. I'll be making scarf joints
> aplenty! The planks will be 0.25 of an inch thick, 5.5 inches tall, and longest length will be 16".
> ...


Welcome to the forum!  You might get away with resawing 6" boards with that saw but it'll be really slow going.  I have a similar Craftsman 12" band saw and resawed maybe 200 linear feet of red oak boards between 4"-5" wide.  Did the typical "L" stick for a fence; clamped the "L" so the upright leg was set 1/2 the 3/4" oak board thickness from the blade.  I used a 1/2" wide 4-tooth blade.  Had to be really careful not to stall the saw as mine has either a 1/3 or 1/2 HP motor.  Resawing is probably the hardest operation on a wood cutting band saw.  I was patient and got it to work, then ran the rough surface through a planer to clean it up.  

Honestly, I know it's blowing away a lot of wood, but it would save you a lot of time to just plane the boards down to thickness.  Of course, depends on your budget.  If you have the time, try the resawing which will probably take you at least 30 minutes for a 16' board.  Or run it through a planer at (my planer's speed) of 12 feet per minute to get them to size.  

Our local specialty woodworking store (Johnson's Lumber in Charlotte, MI; www.theworkbench.com) does custom mill work.  Resawing fee is 5x from planing ($0.35 per board foot vs. $0.07 for 1000 BF).  If I'm doing the math correctly, they'd charge $0.42/board foot to resaw and plane 1000 BF of lumber or $420.  Don't know how much lumber your boat will need, but having a meaty, beefy professional set of machines doing the work for you might be a better option.  Again, depends on your budget, if your time is free and you have plenty of it, there is a lot to say being able to point out to sailors on your boat that you milled all of the wood yourself.

Bruce


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## mickri (Dec 14, 2019)

Welcome to the forum.  Lots of friendly people on here willing to share their experiences and offer advice.  Don't be afraid to ask any question no matter how simple it may seem to be.

  If you don't have a copy of the owners manual here is a link to the manual.  https://www.manualslib.com/manual/735970/Delta-28-195.html 

  What boat are you planning to build?

While this saw may not be the best for what you want to do it is what you have.  I think your biggest problem will be keeping a 16' long board aligned with the saw blade.  Since you will be scarfing the joints anyway you might want to consider using 8' boards.  I have had problems in the past cutting long stock on my radial arm saw and on a table saw.  To over come this I replaced the table on my radial arm saw with a piece 3/4" plywood 8' long.  Really made a difference in being able to control the cut on long stock.  You will need a fence.  A 1x4 on edge should be high enough.  And you will need to make something to keep the board against the fence as you make the cut.  Has to be adjustable because the width of the board will change with each cut.  I did a quick search and didn't find a long table for a band saw.  I did find a bunch of long tables for a miter saw.  You could adapt these ideas for a band saw table.  https://www.guidepatterns.com/diy-miter-saw-table-plans.php

 Post some picture of your setup so people can offer suggestions.  Have fun with your project.


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## f350ca (Dec 14, 2019)

I do some resawing, mostly making book matched panels for cabinet doors. I've lately been using 8 tpi 1/2 inch wide blades. Find they give a beter finish to the cut that requires less planing and seam to cut straighter. The finer set wastes less wood too.The down side is they cut slower, a lot slower tan a 4 tpi 1 inch wide blade but culled a lot more panels where the blade wandered. Im using an 18 inch general saw with a 3 hp motor so power isn't an issue.

Greg


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## Reddinr (Dec 14, 2019)

Welcome to Sawmill Cree..., whoops sorry.  I mean welcome to Hobby Machinist!    I think there are a number of us "cross-overs" here that do both woodworking and machining.  Resist the urge to break out your micrometer to assure you got that last 1/64" off the wood thickness.    I agree with the folks above that it might be a challenge to resaw your boards using that saw, but not impossible.  The long boards will be tougher even.

Years ago I read about a technique used to overcome the drift of a band-saw blade when resawing using a fence.  I have used it ever since and it seems to work well.  Different blades drift one way or the other which may be due to asymmetrical sharpening.  The technique is to run a squared-up piece of wood through the blade following a pencil line that bisects the board thickness.  Follow the line closely and stop halfway through the cut.  The board should now be at the angle at which you need to place the fence.  It might be a degree or three left or right of square to the table.  If you change blades, repeat.

Also, use the widest and sharpest blade you can.  Resawing with a dull blade is very frustrating.


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## AdvenJack (Dec 14, 2019)

I'm very happy to have received all this feedback! Retired, and 59 years old, 
I have plenty of time daily to work through my project. I've watched some videos 
of guys doing resawing with hand tools only. Slow going? Yes. Did the job get 
done? Yes. So I figured, perhaps in error, with this 10 inch saw I should be able 
to make the resew cuts at least as fast I I could do them by hand, BUT NOT WORK 
THAT HARD. I'll be factoring in all the info that you've collectively offered above.
Which boat am I building? Undecided at this second. I intend to cut planks of cheap 
wood initially, and learn the various skills required, before I invest in plans. I've time
to slowly move forward.


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## francist (Dec 14, 2019)

Yup, if you’ve got the time and the desire you can do lots of things. Maybe not the fastest way, but a way nonetheless.

This is what’s left of a particularly handsome slab of curled and quilted Western maple I bought from a dealer when I was more into woodwork. It came to me as about four feet long and just over 2” thick, and not including the wane on the edges it’s in the neighbourhood of 17” wide. Believe it or not I resawed this slab, by hand using a 6-point Disston rip saw, into two 1” thick slabs each 17” wide and 4 feet long. I think it took me about a week of evenings and I sharpened my saw about three times before I got done, but I did it.







So good luck with your project! You can get there if you want it bad enough.

-frank


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## C-Bag (Dec 15, 2019)

AdvenJack said:


> I'm very happy to have received all this feedback! Retired, and 59 years old,
> I have plenty of time daily to work through my project. I've watched some videos
> of guys doing resawing with hand tools only. Slow going? Yes. Did the job get
> done? Yes. So I figured, perhaps in error, with this 10 inch saw I should be able
> ...


I'm so glad you took it how I meant it and how I think most of us meant it. I'm one who doesn't have unlimited resources and some time to invest in something that I can fix up. But what I appreciated about your first post is you told us what your goal is. So few do and without info it's close to impossible to be helpful. 

 As you can see we have a really deep bench in football parlance here and they can steer you towards the minimum needed equipment if you ask before you leap. All of us love to help each other buy more tools. And everybody has to start somewhere.


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## mickri (Dec 15, 2019)

Using 1/4" thick planks 16' long to build a boat indicates to me that you are thinking of a dinghy with a 14' foot length over all give or take.  Before I got into this machining hobby I was heavily involved with racing sailboats and then went cruising for 7 years.  Have done lots of boat repair and even made a 10' stitch and glue dinghy.




I made it out of 1/4" plywood with epoxy to hold everything together.  I started with Sam Devlin's plans which I modified to be a hard chine deep V hull to handle the nasty chop that builds up in most anchorages when the wind comes up.  You might want to consider making your boat out of plywood.  Obtaining straight grain clear 2x6x16' lumber is going to be very expensive.  And you will lose a lot of the wood when resawing.  Very few dinghies are made out lumber these days due to the high cost of the lumber.  Most are now made out of plywood.  The primary exception to this are strip planked canoes and kayaks made from 3/8" strips of cedar.

Building a boat is a fun project.  Keep us posted on your progress.


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## AdvenJack (Dec 15, 2019)

_Good News For All: _I've now seen guys on videos using a table saw to do portions of the resawing work on every board! Start with 
my basic "learning" board. (2x6 and 16 feet long, so it's true height is 5.5 inches) On a table saw make a full, 16' length, kerf cut, 
2 inches deep, into one of the 1.5" wide edges.Then flip the board, and into the opposite 1.5" edge, make a second kerf cut 2 inches 
deep, directly aligned with the first kerf cut. The result will be, that ONLY the center portion of the board remains to be cut with the 
little Delta *10 inch bandsaw, and the thickness of that remaining wood is just 1.5", the same as any typical rip cut or cross cut!! Hooray! 

_To mickri__:_ You're right about the "dinghy"! Ultimately, the end result length may be longer than 14 feet by scarfing two planks end
to end. It may turn out that I scarf 8 footers to the 16 footers, and with the bending wind up losing 4-7 feet of length, resulting in a
boat of no more than 20 feet. It'll still be totally OPEN, (deckless) so pretty much a long "dinghy"! On YOUTUBE, if you type ROGER
BARNES in the search box, you see a British guy doing what I hope to do, with his "Cruising Dinghy" of about 15 feet. I'm over 6'1"
and over 250 pounds, so I want just a few more feet of length than ROGER has. In the video clip Roger is not LIVING FULL TIME in
his DINGHY; he camps out in it! ROGER BARNES ON YOUTUBE
The thickness of the planks might need to be increased to the point that, by starting with a board 1.5 inches thick, I resaw twice,
producing 3 planks of equal thickness, about 0.4 of an inch thick, (1 centimeter thick).

_To francist__:_ Your post about hand resawing that nice wood that you obtained, is certainly an example of PERSEVERANCE !!! 

_To C-Bag:_ (originally by you: "I'm so glad you took it how I meant it and how I think most of us meant it....") Thank you.  In the past
I've participated on other forums, based on a number of different interests that come and go in my brain, on no predictable sched-
ule.  With that experience I've learned that when we type out posts, they don't always perfectly communicate what we are hoping
to communicate. No inflection in voice is heard of course, and English can have multiple meanings to someone reading, and at times,
even when heard! [_example:_ *John punched Bill in the face. Then he hit him with a hammer.* So, did Bill _retaliate_ against John, by hit-
ting John with a hammer? Or, did John _continue_ his attack on Bill, by hitting Bill with a hammer after punching Bill?] Even though there
is a grammar rule telling us who swung the hammer in the statement in bold, and so, who was hit with the hammer, most of us are not
"English Majors". (Me included! I was never a teacher either, as honorable as that profession is!) "The _witness_", who gave the above
answer in bold, may _not_ know that grammar rule; and as a result, he may _not_ have said, what he intended to communicate! The people
on the jury may not know the grammar rule; the judge, and the lawyers may not know the grammar rule. I _guarantee,_ that if a guy was
"on the witness stand", and he was asked what he saw, and he answered exactly as I typed out in bold above, the questioning lawyer
would immediately ask the witness to point at, and or name the man who swung the hammer; and, to point at, and or name the man,
who was hit with the hammer; because the answer, (in bold above) won't make the facts clear to the jury, nor to anyone else! (And *NO !*
I am *NOT* a lawyer! Praise BE !  Though I _had to_ work somewhat closely with them during my career.)


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## mickri (Dec 15, 2019)

Tad Roberts, a NA in British Columbia, has two nice open sail boats that might interest you.  https://www.tadroberts.ca/services/small-boats/sail-and-oar/ratty and https://www.tadroberts.ca/services/small-boats/sail-and-oar/tern.  No charge for the plans for his Tern design.


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## AdvenJack (Dec 16, 2019)

MICKRI: Those sure are attractive designs! I've not yet mentioned that I hope to be at 1 foot draft, boards up,
and I hope to be able to construct a round aft section. [ Laugh all you want to!  ]


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## cathead (Dec 16, 2019)

Wow!  Nice derriere on that boat.....


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## AdvenJack (Dec 16, 2019)

Yes! I am smitten with the curvy transoms as opposed to the wide & flat ones...


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## mickri (Dec 17, 2019)

The boat in the picture is a North Sea 27 designed by Lyle Hess and made out of fiberglass. It is very heavy for its length with deep draft.  Virtually impossible to build that transom out of wood.  Boats with curvy transoms are commonly called double enders and suffer significant performance losses compared to boats with straighter/flatter runs aft.  Without going into boring detail sailboats have a maximum speed in most conditions of 1.34 times the square root of the length of the waterline.  For easy math a boat with a 25' LWL has a theoretical top speed of 6.7 knots.  Because of the curve of the transom on a double ender the effective waterline is shorter than the actual waterline resulting in a lower speed potential.  A long flat run aft does just the opposite.  The longer flat run basically tricks the water into thinking the boat has a longer waterline giving a higher speed potential.

How do I know this stuff.  In college I thought about studying to be a naval architect.  After engaging in an extensive self study I decided to plug along with my degree in real estate.   Boat design can be fascinating if that's what interests you.  In pre computer days the calculations were extremely tedious and time consuming.


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## ezduzit (Dec 17, 2019)

mickri said:


> Boats with curvy transoms are commonly called double enders and suffer significant performance losses compared to boats with straighter/flatter runs aft...



Simply not so.

My last sailboat was a production version of a famous racer which won the prestigious Sydney-Hobart race 3-years in a row; that is overall winner, not corrected time. That boat was called Freya, a double-ender.


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## mickri (Dec 17, 2019)

Freya 39's are great, comfortable boats.  But a lot has changed in boat design in the last 50 years.  The Sydney Hobart race crosses the Tasmania Sea.  One of the nastiest stretches of ocean anywhere in the world.  Often the winning boat is more about surviving  the nasty conditions than speed.  The current nine time winner of the Sydney Hobart is Wild Oaks XI.  No money was spared in the design and construction of Wild Oats XI  If a double ender was the shape of speed Wild Oats would have had a double ender transom. Here is a picture of its transom.




Here is a drawing of the current hull of Wild Oats XI.




For comparison here is a picture of a Freya 39 hull.  Sorry for the fuzzy picture.  It was the best that I could find in a quick search.




The most recent trends in the quest for speed are foils that literally lift the hull out of the water.






Sorry to hijack this thread.


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## NortonDommi (Dec 17, 2019)

Very sorry to annoy you Mickri but New Zealand is retaining the America Cup.


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## mickri (Dec 17, 2019)

No annoyance. If my memory serves me correctly the majority of the crew members on any of the Americas Cup boats no matter what nation the boat is from have been from New Zealand.  You guys down under have some of the best sailors in the world bar none.


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## AdvenJack (Dec 17, 2019)

MICKRI: I'm in agreement that the fastest hull design at this point, is what you are presenting.
I must confess that speed is one of the aspects that's only clumped into the _middle_ group of my list,
as far as importance goes. I'm thinking that wood/lapstrake is not the best choice for the primary
material and construction method if speed is the number one desired aspect. But I'm going the
wood/lapstrake path. And yes, it's all true what you said about the "ocean voyage capable" Nor'Sea
27 footer. Except, I've seen with my own eyes some very rounded aft sections that have been built
with wood - lapstrake construction. AND THEY MELT ME. I've not seen the boat below in person,
but WOW! I guess I'm taking a "Starry Eyed" route on this boat build, with heavy influence coming
from the traditional Scandinavian sailboats. 
EZDUZIT:  Regarding FREYA 39 It looks like it could go to war against the ocean... and survive!
And I mean that in the Most *FLATTERING* WAY !!! 
NORTON DOMMI: I consistently hear ALL GOOD THINGS about New Zealand. I'm sure I'd enjoy myself there!!!


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## mickri (Dec 17, 2019)

That is one beautiful boat.  Looks like a Dutch design.  Have you been to the wooden boat forum?  Lots of good info there on building wooden boats.  Put your ideas and wants up on the wooden boat forum and they will keep you headed in the right direction.

Have fun with your build.


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## Eddyde (Dec 17, 2019)

AdvenJack said:


> I've now seen guys on videos using a table saw to do portions of the resawing work on every board! Start with
> my basic "learning" board. (2x6 and 16 feet long, so it's true height is 5.5 inches) On a table saw make a full, 16' length, kerf cut,
> 2 inches deep, into one of the 1.5" wide edges.Then flip the board, and into the opposite 1.5" edge, make a second kerf cut 2 inches
> deep, directly aligned with the first kerf cut. The result will be, that ONLY the center portion of the board remains to be cut with the
> little Delta *10 inch bandsaw, and the thickness of that remaining wood is just 1.5", the same as any typical rip cut or cross cut!! Hooray!



If you have a 10" table saw, the blade should make it to the center of the board, thus you wouldn't even need the bandsaw. If the table saw lacks sufficient horsepower to do it in 2 passes you could go 3 or 4 passes. The finish might even be good enough to not need planing or very little. A good sharp blade designed for ripping is your friend. I have re-sawed many a board like this, it's reasonably safe if done competently. Also get a couple of roller stands (HF has decent ones for cheap) they make feeding 16' stock a breeze.


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## AdvenJack (Dec 19, 2019)

MICKRI: The wooden boat forum will be at the beginning of my to-do list tomorrow! 
I appreciate your whole collection of posts.

EDDYDE: Your info about the 10" table saw is Excellent. Do you know if thin, kerfing 
blades are readily obtainable in that diameter?


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## Eddyde (Dec 19, 2019)

AdvenJack said:


> EDDYDE: Your info about the 10" table saw is Excellent. Do you know if thin, kerfing
> blades are readily obtainable in that diameter?



You can get 10" diameter thin kerf blades but that may not be the best choice for resewing. Thin kerf blades are more prone to heat warping and resewing generates a lot of heat. What you definitely want is a ripping blade, with less teeth that a regular blade. Shop around and see what's out there but stay away from the big box store, blister pack, cheap-o blades. A good quality blade makes all the difference. What kind of wood are you going to be resewing?


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## bpimm (Dec 19, 2019)

Something I haven't seen mentioned yet is to resaw 16' material takes a 32'+ space to work in.


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