# ER-32 Collet Chuck Wanted for MicroMark 7X16 Mini Lathe



## devils4ever (Apr 12, 2020)

As the title suggests, I'm looking at getting a ER-32 collet chuck for my Micro Mark 7X16 mini lathe.

I was planning on getting this from Little Machine Shop since I know they sell decent quality and I know it would fit. This is the one I was thinking about. However, just as I was about to place the order, they had to shutdown due to COVID-19.

So, can any suggest where else I could get one? I see a bunch of these for sale on eBay listed as 80 mm. Would these work? Good quality?

Also, what set of collets should I get?


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## mickri (Apr 12, 2020)

You can make one.  That's what I did.  Halligan142 on you tube has a series of videos on how to make one.  Beall Tool Company makes them.  http://www.bealltool.com/products/turning/colletchuck.php


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## .LMS. (Apr 12, 2020)

I have one from Beall and it works well with my lathe.


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## higgite (Apr 12, 2020)

mickri said:


> You can make one.  That's what I did.  Halligan142 on you tube has a series of videos on how to make one.  Beall Tool Company makes them.  http://www.bealltool.com/products/turning/colletchuck.php





.LMS. said:


> I have one from Beall and it works well with my lathe.


I believe the Beall chucks require a threaded spindle, which OP’s lathe doesn’t have.

devils4ever,
If you do get one similar to the LMS that you linked, I suggest that you make sure it has at least one hole on the perimeter for a tommy bar to assist in tightening and loosening the collet nut, similar to the one pictured here.


Three equally spaced holes around the rim are even more convenient, but one will suffice. The LMS chuck may have one, but it’s not obvious in their web photo.

Tom


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## royesses (Apr 12, 2020)

higgite said:


> I believe the Beall chucks require a threaded spindle, which OP’s lathe doesn’t have.
> 
> devils4ever,
> If you do get one similar to the LMS that you linked, I suggest that you make sure it has at least one hole on the perimeter for a tommy bar to assist in tightening and loosening the collet nut, similar to the one pictured here.
> ...


The LMS one has no holes for a Tommy bar. I drilled 3 holes in mine. It is a quality chuck that LMS sells. 

Roy


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## devils4ever (Apr 12, 2020)

Yeah, I'd prefer not making one. I'd rather just buy a decent one. I have enough projects!


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## mikey (Apr 12, 2020)

devils4ever said:


> Also, what set of collets should I get?


 
For work holding on the lathe, just get a cheap set of import collets. Good enough for lathe work. The mill is another story ... there, spend money on a good set from Techniks. Try not to mix collets between the lathe and mill. Save your accurate collets for the precision tool shanks of your milling cutters.


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## devils4ever (Apr 12, 2020)

Eventually, I want to get a hex block and square block for the mill to use with the collets. I already have R8 collets for the end mills. Do I need both?


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## mikey (Apr 12, 2020)

Only if you wish to use ER collets on the mill. Speaking for just myself, I feel ER collets are the best choice for a hobby mill. They are about the most accurate affordable option, in my opinion. A good ER chuck/nut/collet system will run very near the accuracy of your spindle and will damp vibration better than most other tool holders. This leads to better accuracy, finishes and tool life. And that longer tool life can significantly reduce costs over time. 

There are R8 collets (Hardinge, Crawford, Lydex) that can match an ER collet for accuracy but they are expensive, and they don't dampen vibration as well. Import R8 collets will not come close to a good R8 or ER set up. I have and like Crawford R8 collets and they're really accurate but I still prefer an ER set up. Again, that's just me.

As for separate collet sets for the lathe and mill, it is my feeling that collets retain their accuracy best when clamping near their nominal range. If we stretch them out or over-collapse them, which happens when working on lathe work pieces, they may lose some of their accuracy. For this reason, I have separate sets and use the cheap ones on the lathe.


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## devils4ever (Apr 13, 2020)

mikey: I'm a little confused. How would an ER-32 collet attach to my PM25 mill? It would have to be a R8 shank, correct?


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## mikey (Apr 13, 2020)

You would require an ER32 chuck with an integral R8 shank. Glacern sells a very good one for just $99.00. They now carry an ER40 chuck, too. 

An alternative is to use the Tormach TTS system. It is a modified R8 collet that holds various tools, including ER chucks of various sizes, end mill holders and so on. The tools are all Chinese tools but of fairly good quality. If you need to change tools often, it is a good system at a hobby guy level of cost.


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## ThinWoodsman (Apr 13, 2020)

Do a search on ebay or amazon for "er-32 collet chuck 100mm".
I have the same lathe. Do not buy the collet chuck with the MT shank such as Micromark sells - you'd need to fabricate an M12 (if memory serves) drawbar to use it. Be sure to get one like this that bolts to the spindle.


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## devils4ever (Apr 13, 2020)

I have the 3" (80mm) chuck on there now. Will a 100mm one fit?


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## ThinWoodsman (Apr 13, 2020)

Just checked the diameter of the one I bought a few months back, and you know, you're right - it's 80mm not 100mm. But there's a link to the 80mm on that ebay page for the 100mm.


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## devils4ever (May 11, 2020)

I see that LMS is back. So, I plan on ordering a collet chuck for my mini lathe.

However, after seeing a few videos on youtube, I see I can get a 5C collet chuck that fits my mini lathe. The 5C collets handle larger diameter stock. ER-32 maximum size is 13/16" vs 1-1/8" for 5C. This seems very attractive. So, now I'm thinking of getting this instead.

The only downside to the 5C collet chuck that I see is that it is more expensive, is longer reducing the stock length I can turn, and it requires a backing plate.

Thoughts?


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## higgite (May 11, 2020)

I have an 4” ER32 chuck for my bench lathe. Wishing to be able to hold larger stock with collets, I bought a 4” 5C chuck, some 5C collets in the 25/32” to 1-1/8” range and a 5C to ER32 adapter so I could continue to use my set of ER32 collets for 3/4” and smaller stock. I occasionally turn stock larger than 3/4” but have yet to turn anything larger than 1”, except for a couple of backplates, but those are out of the realm of collets anyway. Given my history of usage and 20/20 hindsight, I wish I had been savvy enough to have bought an ER40 chuck and collets instead of ER32 the first place and forgone the 5C chuck altogether. It would have served my needs just as well. And saved me a ton of money. Just some food for thought.

Tom


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## devils4ever (May 11, 2020)

I don't think the 4" ER-40 collet chuck will fit my mini lathe.


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## Ken from ontario (May 11, 2020)

It should, if I were you I would check out LMS , they have a list of compatible lathes :








						ER-40 Collet Chuck for Lathe | Small Collet Chuck
					

This versatile ER-40 collet chuck easily mounts on the lathe spindle and ranges in size from 1/8" to 1." Order the small collet chuck for your lathe machine.




					littlemachineshop.com
				



*This product works with lathes with a 100 mm flange chuck mount* .


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## Aaron_W (May 11, 2020)

devils4ever said:


> I see that LMS is back. So, I plan on ordering a collet chuck for my mini lathe.
> 
> However, after seeing a few videos on youtube, I see I can get a 5C collet chuck that fits my mini lathe. The 5C collets handle larger diameter stock. ER-32 maximum size is 13/16" vs 1-1/8" for 5C. This seems very attractive. So, now I'm thinking of getting this instead.
> 
> ...



You will need a lot more 5C collets, as much as 4x because they have a very narrow clamping range. A full set of 5C is by 64ths, ER by 16ths. 5C are also bigger which is trivial on a larger lathe but with only 16" could be an issue.

I haven't used 5C but I understand they don't clamp as well if the part doesn't extend the full length of the collet.

There used to be specific uses for 5C not available with ER, but now with ER collet blocks and spin indexers I haven't found a need for them.


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## devils4ever (May 11, 2020)

Sounds like the ER-32 system is the way to go.


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## mikey (May 11, 2020)

On a lathe, as you've been advised, ER-40 might be even better if you can fit the chuck.


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## devils4ever (May 11, 2020)

I don't see LMS selling a ER-40 chuck that fits my mini lathe. Am I missing it?


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## mikey (May 11, 2020)

Will the chuck that Ken suggested fit your lathe?


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## devils4ever (May 11, 2020)

No. It's not listed for my lathe.


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## Aaron_W (May 11, 2020)

There are more accessories for ER32 than the other sizes, so unless you strictly want to use the collets in the lathe, you may find yourself getting a set anyway. ER32 are also typically cheaper so having a set of ER32 up to 3/4" if you later find an ER40 you can just buy the larger sizes and use your ER32 for 3/4" and below.

I like LMS but their collet prices aren't that great. I bought Techniks ER32 collets from All Industrial for about the same price as LMS' unbranded collets. I found the same thing with Beall, whose unbranded collets are substantially more expensive. You can get sets of cheap unbranded ER32 collets on ebay for $3-5 / collet if on a tight budget. 

LMS has MT to 3/4-16 adapters allowing the use of Taig and Sherline tooling. It is too bad they don't have a plate type adapter for the 7" and 8" mini-lathes allowing the use of accessories for 3/4", 1" and 1-1/2" threaded spindles which would open up a bunch of options for you.


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## higgite (May 11, 2020)

devils4ever said:


> I don't think the 4" ER-40 collet chuck will fit my mini lathe.


My bad. When you said you had found a 5C chuck to fit your mini lathe, my brain defaulted to 4”. I had a heck of a time finding a 4” 5C chuck and I paid through the nose for it. Most are 5” and larger. Where did you find a 3” (80mm) one?

If, as you say, you would have to make a backplate for the 3” 5C chuck, you might be able to make or buy a backplate to adapt the 4” ER40 to your 80mm spindle flange, if you wanted to go that route. LMS sells a 4” chuck to 3” spindle adapter that is compatible with your lathe. 








						Adapter, 4" Lathe Chuck 1692
					

Lathe Chuck Backplate Adapters 1692 Compatible with 4" 3- or 4-Jaw Lathe Chucks on Mini Lathes; Use with Chucks with a 72 mm Registration Recess Diame...




					littlemachineshop.com
				




Tom


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## devils4ever (May 11, 2020)

It's strange that I can mount the ER-32 collet chuck and the 5C collet chuck on my mini lathe, but not the ER-40. I do plan on getting the square and hex blocks eventually. 

LMS sells the 5" 5C collet chuck (#3047) with an adapter plate (#2347) to mount on it on my mini lathe.

So, the Techniks ER-32 collets are preferred over the LMS ones? No problem, I can get the chuck from LMS and the collets from All Industrial.


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## Aaron_W (May 11, 2020)

devils4ever said:


> It's strange that I can mount the ER-32 collet chuck and the 5C collet chuck on my mini lathe, but not the ER-40. I do plan on getting the square and hex blocks eventually.
> 
> LMS sells the 5" 5C collet chuck (#3047) with an adapter plate (#2347) to mount on it on my mini lathe.
> 
> So, the Techniks ER-32 collets are preferred over the LMS ones? No problem, I can get the chuck from LMS and the collets from All Industrial.



Techniks assure a maximum of 0.002" run out on their precision collets, the unbranded LMS and Beall collets give no qualifier to their quality. I have some of the Beall collets and they are good, as I expect the LMS are as well but when Techniks stands behind their quality with stated standards why pay the same amount for collets with no stated standards. All Industrial is also in So Cal and offers free shipping on most items with a $75 order. Like LMS they have some cheaper brands and name brands. They also currently have a buy 3 get one free sale on ER collets right now. https://allindustrial.com/


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## mikey (May 11, 2020)

More like 0.0002" tir ...


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## Aaron_W (May 11, 2020)

mikey said:


> More like 0.0002" tir ...



Whoops


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## devils4ever (May 12, 2020)

Okay, I ordered the collet chuck from LMS and the collets from All Industrial. Thanks all!!!


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## devils4ever (May 19, 2020)

mikey said:


> Only if you wish to use ER collets on the mill. Speaking for just myself, I feel ER collets are the best choice for a hobby mill. They are about the most accurate affordable option, in my opinion. A good ER chuck/nut/collet system will run very near the accuracy of your spindle and will damp vibration better than most other tool holders. This leads to better accuracy, finishes and tool life. And that longer tool life can significantly reduce costs over time.



Okay, I've been thinking about this and now I get it. I see the advantages of using an ER-32 collet chuck on the mill. I won't have to keep changing collets when changing end mill sizes and/or drilling. They come in 1/32" increments which is useful when power tapping since I'm having trouble holding taps in the drill chuck and R8 collets because the tap diameters aren't standardized. I think the ER-32 collets would solve this. Plus, they have a lower runout.

So, I'm expecting my ER-32 lathe collet chuck from LMS today. I already received the Techniks collet set from All Industrial. Very nice looking set. 

I might have to order an ER-32 collet chuck with R8 shank now! Any recommendations? LMS has one on sale? Do I need a higher end one? Shars?


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## Aaron_W (May 19, 2020)

I've found everything I've gotten from LMS is pretty good quality, they seem to avoid the bottom of the barrel import stuff. The only reason I suggested the other collets is because theirs are priced the same as name brand collets.

From what I've read the quality of the collets is much more important than the collet chuck used. I would think the LMS R8 collet chuck is good enough.


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## Ken from ontario (May 19, 2020)

I have had this R8 collet chuck for 3 years now and the main reason for choosing this chuck over hundreds of other similar looking ones is , it was highly recommended for it's quality and also for Glacern's customer service, if I had to buy another, I would order the same one, here's where I found mine:





						Glacern Machine Tools - ER Collet Chucks
					

Glacern Machine Tools manufacturers CNC Machine Vises, Precision Tool Holders, and Indexable Milling Cutters for vertical and horizontal cnc milling machines.




					www.glacern.com


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## devils4ever (May 19, 2020)

The Glacern one looks really well made, but I don't see TIR listed. 

Do you know what it is?


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## Ken from ontario (May 19, 2020)

The last time I checked was when I bought it and to be honest my method of checking was not accurate (up to a machine shop standard) but IIRC, it was just around 0.0006" (0.0160 mm) which was more than acceptable for my hobby use.  used a 1/4" Technik collet and a3" drill rod.


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## mikey (May 19, 2020)

devils4ever said:


> Okay, I've been thinking about this and now I get it. I see the advantages of using an ER-32 collet chuck on the mill. I won't have to keep changing collets when changing end mill sizes and/or drilling. They come in 1/32" increments which is useful when power tapping since I'm having trouble holding taps in the drill chuck and R8 collets because the tap diameters aren't standardized. I think the ER-32 collets would solve this. Plus, they have a lower runout.
> 
> So, I'm expecting my ER-32 lathe collet chuck from LMS today. I already received the Techniks collet set from All Industrial. Very nice looking set.
> 
> I might have to order an ER-32 collet chuck with R8 shank now! Any recommendations? LMS has one on sale? Do I need a higher end one? Shars?



I would echo what @Ken from ontario said - the Glacern ER chuck is very nice and at a decent price. They spec <0.0001" TIR at the taper so it is as accurate as your spindle. I would not go for a cheap ER chuck for the mill. Your cutters will only be as accurate as the spindle and chuck combined; a cheap chuck will not be a wise choice. There are better ER chucks to be sure but not at the prices Glacern charges.

I wanted to re-emphasize that you should probably save your Techniks collets for the mill and use generic import collets on the lathe. The reason for this is that lathe work pieces may not be close to the stated size of the collet. These collets will collapse down about 0.040" so they will grab the work but this will eventually affect their accuracy. A collet grabs best and most accurately when the thing it is grabbing is close to its stated size. It is better to use cheap collets in the lathe to give you maximum usability and save your Techniks collets for when you need their accuracy. I follow my own advice and have separate ER32 and ER40 Techniks and import sets for the lathe and mill.


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## ThinWoodsman (May 19, 2020)

devils4ever said:


> Okay, I've been thinking about this and now I get it. I see the advantages of using an ER-32 collet chuck on the mill. I won't have to keep changing collets when changing end mill sizes and/or drilling. They come in 1/32" increments which is useful when power tapping since I'm having trouble holding taps in the drill chuck and R8 collets because the tap diameters aren't standardized. I think the ER-32 collets would solve this. Plus, they have a lower runout.



One of the first things I bought for the Bridgeport was an ER collet chuck.
Now, I rarely use it. I found it too fiddly, and with the R8s I can line up a bunch of tools in collets ready for swap-out. I don't find fumbling around with the ER nut to be an improvement over working the drawbar (which is about eye-level for me, meaning the ER collet requires a stoop).


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## devils4ever (May 20, 2020)

Got my ER-32 collet chuck mounted on my mini lathe.

A few quick measurements and the runout is about 0.001" which is coming from the lathe spindle, not the chuck or collets. I'm impressed.

Well, I'm going to give it a try. I ordered the Glacern ER32 collet chuck with R8 spindle.

So, for a cheap set of collets for the lathe, I'll try eBay?


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## Ken from ontario (May 20, 2020)

devils4ever said:


> Got my ER-32 collet chuck mounted on my mini lathe.
> 
> A few quick measurements and* the runout is about 0.001" *which is coming from the lathe spindle, not the chuck or collets. I'm impressed.
> 
> ...




It would be a good idea to mark the holes/chuck so next time when you re install that chuck, it'll go in the same holes and will give you the same runout, I've done that to all my chucks.
I bought my "less expensive" collets from this seller, have no regrets, I also have heard good reviews on ACCUSIZE which is a Canadian based vendor but their stuff is more expensive and slightly above average.









						10PC CAT40 ER32 COLLET CHUCK TURE 20000 RPM IN TENTH NEW  | eBay
					

10PC CAT40 ER32 Collet Chuck. 10PCCAT40 ER32 Collet Chuck New. Gage or projection length of ER32 chuck is 2.75 ". Accuracy in Tenth. Accuracy in Tenth ,0.0001". Fully ground flange and V-groove — easy on tool changers for less spindle and.



					www.ebay.com
				









						AccusizeTools - 18 Pcs ER32 Collet Set 3/32'' to 25/32'' in Fitted Strong Box, 0223-0880: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
					

AccusizeTools - 18 Pcs ER32 Collet Set 3/32'' to 25/32'' in Fitted Strong Box, 0223-0880: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



					www.amazon.com


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## higgite (May 20, 2020)

Ken from ontario said:


> It would be a good idea to mark the holes/chuck so next time when you re install that chuck, it'll go in the same holes and will give you the same runout, I've done that to all my chucks.


Devil,
Before you witness mark the chuck and the spindle, you might also try different hole-to-hole combinations to see if one of the three possiblities gives you less runout. It makes a difference for my collet chuck on my lathe.

Tom


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## devils4ever (May 20, 2020)

Okay, I'll check that.

Here's a cheap set on Amazon that looks decent. Anyone have this set?


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## Ken from ontario (May 20, 2020)

devils4ever said:


> Okay, I'll check that.
> 
> Here's a cheap set on Amazon that looks decent. Anyone have this set?


That is the same eBay seller I linked, I have one of their set and as I mentioned the collets are acceptable for work holding but I'd use the Techniks for tool holding on my mill. I just wished I had ordered the set with the most collets(by 1/32" not 1/16"), and metric/inch so it would cover all the in-between sizes.
Most of what I know about good collets and what to look for came from a very reliable source(Mikey) so I would check with him and follow his advice.


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## mikey (May 21, 2020)

devils4ever said:


> Okay, I'll check that.
> 
> Here's a cheap set on Amazon that looks decent. Anyone have this set?



I don't own that exact set but buying it on Amazon is a good idea because of their return policy. For the lathe, a set like you linked to is a good idea. It will allow you to grab whatever you want up to 3/4" OD. Again, save the Techniks collets for the mill.


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## devils4ever (May 21, 2020)

Thanks, mikey. 

Yes, this Amazon set looks good and is about half the price of the Techniks I bought. I'll use those on the mill and the Amazon set on the lathe. The 25 piece set goes to 13/16" which is good also. Runout is supposed to be 3 or 4 tenths.


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## devils4ever (May 24, 2020)

So, my LMS chuck has no holes for tightening the collar. I can see this is needed. I can drill a hole on the perimeter, but is the steel hardened? What size? Depth? What goes in it? A straight rod? Or, a curved one like the one for the collar?


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## jaek (May 24, 2020)

I made a wrench for this out of a 1/4”x1” piece of flat bar and a handle. My chuck has socket head cap screws inserted from the front holding it on, so the bar has a hole that fits over the head of a screw close to one side. The side of the bar wedges against the body of the chuck pretty nicely. Will take a picture once I get home.


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## mikey (May 24, 2020)

devils4ever said:


> So, my LMS chuck has no holes for tightening the collar. I can see this is needed. I can drill a hole on the perimeter, but is the steel hardened? What size? Depth? What goes in it? A straight rod? Or, a curved one like the one for the collar?



My ER40 chuck has three equally spaced holes around the periphery of the chuck. They go in about 1/2" deep and I use a straight rod turned to fit the hole to hold the chuck steady as I tighten the ER nut. 

Test your chuck with a file to see if it is hardened. I suspect it won't be and you can just drill it. If it is hardened then you would need to use a carbide die drill to make the hole(s).


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## royesses (May 24, 2020)

The LMS chuck is not hardened. I drilled 3  3/8" holes in mine for Tommy bar use. You can just use a straight Tommy bar or a pin spanner if you choose.


Roy


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## jaek (May 24, 2020)

Here are the pics - the welds are crappy but it works great.


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## devils4ever (May 25, 2020)

If I drill a 3/8" hole, do I need to drill 3 to keep it balanced? Or, will 1 hole not throw it out of whack?


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## Aaron_W (May 25, 2020)

My Beall chuck just has 2, one on each side. Well 4 actually 2 on the body 2 on the nose piece.

Another option on your chuck, you could use a strap wrench. The rubber strap type are cheap, work well and won't mark the chuck surface.


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## royesses (May 25, 2020)

Drilling one hole may or may not cause it to be out of balance. Look at the spindle flange bolt hole pattern, there will be a spot that has more holes. Mount the chuck with the hole opposite this area and try it. If it is not vibrating you can leave just on hole. If it vibrates a lot then drill a hole 180° from the original.

Roy


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## mikey (May 25, 2020)

What Roy said.


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## higgite (May 25, 2020)

devils4ever said:


> If I drill a 3/8" hole, do I need to drill 3 to keep it balanced? Or, will 1 hole not throw it out of whack?


To keep things balanced, I would just drill 3 holes equidistant between the 3 mounting holes. Easy enough to measure and mark. If you’re going to drill one or two, you may as well drill three and not worry about balancing the spindle flange. If the chuck doesn’t throw the spindle out of balance with no holes, it won’t with three equally spaced holes either. Three holes around the chuck are a lot less aggravating than having to spin the chuck around to find the hole every time, too.

I’m in the camp that just uses a straight tommy bar stuck in one of the holes. The one I use is about 6” long which gives me plenty of leverage to tighten the nut with both hands. To loosen it, I hold the tommy bar against the front edge of the lathe bed and pull on the wrench. Saves from from banging knuckles in close quarters. Did I mention that I'm clumsy?

Tom


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## devils4ever (May 25, 2020)

I drilled one hole so far. I drilled it 1/64" less than 3/8" since most round stock is not exactly sized. I turned down the end of a 3/8" round to fit the hole more precisely.

I don't see/feel any vibrations, but maybe I'll drill 3 holes to be sure.


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## devils4ever (May 26, 2020)

Well, I guess I got lucky on the first hole. The second two are giving me *real *problems. I was able to drill a 1/4" pilot hole using a spotting drill. But, when I tried to enlarge them using some HSS drills, they wouldn't go in. I get lots of smoke. 

Could it have hardened? Why was my first hole no issue?

What next? Get some carbide drill bits?


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## royesses (May 26, 2020)

Smoke =heat, possibly work hardened. Are the drills good quality? I used cobalt drills on mine but I don't think that is what makes yours not work. A carbide drill will do the job but may be expensive. I had no indication at all of work hardening on my chuck. Drilled center holes with lathe center drill, pilot drill and then full size without any problems.

Roy


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## devils4ever (May 27, 2020)

The smoke might have been the cutting fluid. I'm not sure. The drills are good quality, HSS, and USA made that I've had for decades, but looking at some of them they need to be sharpened or replaced. However, I used the same ones on the first hole without issue.

Maybe, a carbide end mill will do the job?


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## Grinderman (May 27, 2020)

Aaron_W said:


> My Beall chuck just has 2, one on each side. Well 4 actually 2 on the body 2 on the nose piece.
> 
> Another option on your chuck, you could use a strap wrench. The rubber strap type are cheap, work well and won't mark the chuck surface.


Have you been satisfied with the Beall chuck? I just ordered one along with some Techniks collets.


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## Aaron_W (May 27, 2020)

Grinderman said:


> Have you been satisfied with the Beall chuck? I just ordered one along with some Techniks collets.



Yes, I like them. I actually have 3, one for the Sherline lathe and mill, and 2 for my bigger lathe (ER32 and ER50).


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## royesses (May 27, 2020)

devils4ever said:


> The smoke might have been the cutting fluid. I'm not sure. The drills are good quality, HSS, and USA made that I've had for decades, but looking at some of them they need to be sharpened or replaced. However, I used the same ones on the first hole without issue.
> 
> Maybe, a carbide end mill will do the job?



Carbide end mill or drill will do it. 

Roy


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## devils4ever (May 28, 2020)

I bought and used a carbide 23/64" end mill on the collet chuck to finish/fix those last two holes that gave me trouble. It cut through like butter! Plus, I get flat bottomed holes.

I guess I need to replace or sharpen my drill bits. Looking at them more closely, I can see issues that I never noticed before. I ordered some replacements in the smaller sizes, but the larger ones are $$$. It's probably cheaper to buy a set! So, is it worth getting a sharpener? I tried doing it by hand it and didn't work out so well!


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## Ken from ontario (May 28, 2020)

So far I have resisted the temptation to buy a Drill Doctor, I do okay sharpening my own bits although lately I've been thinking more and more about buying a DD due to my old age and worsening eye sight. from what I hear some really love their DD and some hate it , I tend to agree with those who think it's worth the cost and the time to learn how to do it properly so I guess one of these days I'll get one and find our for myself.


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## devils4ever (May 28, 2020)

Yeah, the Drill Doctor does look interesting and a lot people either love it or hate it! It's priced right and takes little space unlike industrial machines. I notice from pictures that the grind seems a little rough and is not as polished as factory bits.

I could definitely save some $$$ by not buying new bits.

mikey loves it, so it makes me want to try it.


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## mikey (May 28, 2020)

devils4ever said:


> Yeah, the Drill Doctor does look interesting and a lot people either love it or hate it! It's priced right and takes little space unlike industrial machines. I notice from pictures that the grind seems a little rough and is not as polished as factory bits.
> 
> I could definitely save some $$$ by not buying new bits.
> 
> mikey loves it, so it makes me want to try it.



Before I bought a DD, I did everything by hand and I was fairly good at it. The problem for me was consistency (plus I'm getting older so seeing clearly is an issue) with smaller bits. It is critical for the geometry to be even on both sides and a machine does this more consistently, faster and easier than doing it freehand. A DD is not a high end drill sharpener but it does what I need it to do at a price that is not bad. Just understand that it is not a Darex or Cuttermaster grinder.


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## royesses (May 28, 2020)

I have 2 drill doctors. When my eyesight started to get bad I stopped hand sharpening. I have great luck with the DD. My favorite is the old 500/750 pro classic, the green vertical one. When you first get it you may become discouraged but persistence pays. Like any machine tool you develop procedures to work with the machine that make the machine work at its best. I am still learning the 750X model. I still hand sharpen large drills and the drills my son breaks with his brute force approach to everything.

Roy


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## Grinderman (Jun 1, 2020)

Aaron_W said:


> Yes, I like them. I actually have 3, one for the Sherline lathe and mill, and 2 for my bigger lathe (ER32 and ER50).


Just got the Beall chuck and checked the runout. At the collet bore it’s .0025. Adding the .0005 from the spindle, I get about .003 at the tool. Beall says this is within their tolerance, not mine. Did you find similar results with the chucks you bought?


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## Aaron_W (Jun 2, 2020)

Grinderman said:


> Just got the Beall chuck and checked the runout. At the collet bore it’s .0025. Adding the .0005 from the spindle, I get about .003 at the tool. Beall says this is within their tolerance, not mine. Did you find similar results with the chucks you bought?



I measured mine when I first got it a couple of years ago so don't remember specifically. I can check mine and get back to you, but that sounds high.


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