# Boring / Grooving / Threading.



## Xnerd (Dec 3, 2016)

I would like to ensure everybody that I have looked everywhere on the damn internet for this and I cannot find this item anywhere. I have seen a few pictures of this type of boring bar but no real information on are they still available to buy or do you have to find old garage sale items xcetera. I got a couple of these bars with some lathe parts that I bought off of Craigslist. I don't know if these are antiquated or not, they kind of look like they are, but they really really work good either way. I do not know what they are made of but they are stiff as all get-out. I really need some more of these smaller ones though.

If anybody has a few of these to sell, please message me. If anybody knows where you can still buy them let me know.




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## Bob Korves (Dec 3, 2016)

To send pics using Tapatalk you will need to click on the paperclip.


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## FOMOGO (Dec 3, 2016)

Can't help with the boring bar. You can get the pic to appear by clicking on reply, but was wondering if anyone knows how to delete the reply without posting? Thanks, Mike


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## Wreck™Wreck (Dec 3, 2016)

That looks ancient to me and I have been at it for awhile
HSS or carbide tooling?


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## Big Bore Builder (Dec 3, 2016)

Reload your photo, I am seeing a big red X.

I have a lot of old boring bars and I have seen many others over my 55 year machining career, so If I can see your photo I may be able to help.


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## Wreck™Wreck (Dec 3, 2016)

This is the picture


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## Big Bore Builder (Dec 3, 2016)

I have a few like that but without the depth markings.     You can buy them from most suppliers.

Are you interested in the depth markings?     Put them in your self with a sharp V tool in the lathe.   Hand stamp the numbers.

Or, is it the style of the tool bit holding?   

I have several that I made.     A piece of 4140 round stock, drill the holes, square them up with a file.

I will take a few photos and later post.

I control depth with a dial indicator on the lathe bed.  Indicator point on the carriage.


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## Big Bore Builder (Dec 3, 2016)

Photos:

A few of the boring bars in the shop.    Several more are on the machines.





Bits ground for each bar;  small guys on the top row are 1/4" and 3/16".





Top one is a 1" I made from a Thompson linear bearing rail.  Nice alloy and it is case hardened.




Middle is a 3/4" I purchased from Enco.

Bottom is a 3/4" I made from a length of 4140 shafting.

End view:





Square stock drilled for 3/8" and 1/2" bars.    They go in the 4 Way tool post in the background.




They will also take the carbide tipped bars:





And the Holy Grail.     Everede bars that take a triangular bit.   Real easy to grind the bits and the angles are built into the bar.




This Everede set is from the early 1960's.    You know it is quality when the set comes in a wood box!





The shop made 3/4" in action.   Cutting oil grooves in motorcycle con rods.   The jig was handy, I had 30 to do.  Note the dial indicator for depth control.




Boring a sprocket with the shop made 1" bar.


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## Big Bore Builder (Dec 3, 2016)

Check Grizzly:

http://www.grizzly.com/boring-bars


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## 4GSR (Dec 3, 2016)

I have my original set of Everede Boring bars I bought back in 1978, they came in a cardboard box!  
I've added a lot more of them to my collection over the years, too.


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## Xnerd (Dec 3, 2016)

Well the form is still acting up for me but in a different way it's not telling me that there's new posts added and then all at once it'll tell me about all of them. Anyway back to the point yes I like them because of the way the tooling is held in the Square slot. And they were very very stiff I don't know what they're made out of I do have some 4150 in half and one inch that I could use I also have some tool steel that I could use but I really need some real small stuff and I don't know how I would get a square profile hole in something small without having perhaps a broaching tool.

I can make HSS boring and threading tools I just really like these.

I also use a dial indicator for depth so now the death markings are no real added Plus for me. I find that a lot of the old tools are really good I really like them. I have some newborn bars from an aerospace company did I tell you the truth I like the old stuff better

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## Xnerd (Dec 3, 2016)

Bob Korves said:


> To send pics using Tapatalk you will need to click on the paperclip.


I clicked on the image LOL who'd a thought lol you would think that the image icon would post an image LOL 

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## Xnerd (Dec 3, 2016)

Xnerd said:


> I would like to ensure everybody that I have looked everywhere on the damn internet for this and I cannot find this item anywhere. I have seen a few pictures of this type of boring bar but no real information on are they still available to buy or do you have to find old garage sale items xcetera. I got a couple of these bars with some lathe parts that I bought off of Craigslist. I don't know if these are antiquated or not, they kind of look like they are, but they really really work good either way. I do not know what they are made of but they are stiff as all get-out. I really need some more of these smaller ones though.
> 
> If anybody has a few of these to sell, please message me. If anybody knows where you can still buy them let me know.
> 
> ...






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## Xnerd (Dec 3, 2016)

Okay officially hate tap talk I can't edit my post I can't do anything

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## Bob Korves (Dec 3, 2016)

4gsr said:


> I have my original set of Everede Boring bars I bought back in 1978, they came in a cardboard box!
> I've added a lot more of them to my collection over the years, too.


I don't have a box at all, Ken, but I have the Everede bars, a set from 3/8 to 1", and an Everede bar holder for a lantern tool post.  Also a bunch of bits, both HSS and carbide, and an Everede bit grinding fixture.  You can't machine anything using a box (but, yes, I love the old boxes, too!)

Look here:  http://everede.net/documents/2014_everede_product_catalog_web.pdf 
Boring bars: page 63, I have set 200-C
Engine lathe boring bar holder:  Pages 67 and 68
Bits: page 69, HSS and carbide
Grinding blocks:  Page 71, mine is nicer than any of those, and multi functional.

These are very nice boring bars!


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## mikey (Dec 4, 2016)

Another option is the Circle Machine QCMI series of carbide bars. They come in 3/8", 1/2" and 5/8" diameters. They will accept boring, grooving and threading inserts. The carbide bar helps to hold pretty tight threading tolerances and the bar bores like silk.


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## Xnerd (Dec 4, 2016)

mikey said:


> Another option is the Circle Machine QCMI series of carbide bars. They come in 3/8", 1/2" and 5/8" diameters. They will accept boring, grooving and threading inserts. The carbide bar helps to hold pretty tight threading tolerances and the bar bores like silk.


I basically have a lot of boring bar options I have some of those Cheapo pre-made carbide ones there are other crap and I hate. I got a bunch of bars from Aerospace. I get them because they have such high control because they're military-spec that if something gets obsolete it by engineering they can't use it anymore have to get it out of the building so they threw it away or let the guys take them home.

For some reason I just really like using these old ones they just feel solid. I have a really old boring bar holder too I just love it it's so stiff I mean you can not budge it looks like this
	

		
			
		

		
	




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## benmychree (Dec 5, 2016)

Big Bore Builder said:


> Photos:
> 
> A few of the boring bars in the shop.    Several more are on the machines.
> 
> ...


One thing that most folks do not know is that there is virtually no difference in ridigity between hard and soft steel, alloy or carbon types; all steels have the same modulus of elasticity, or very nearly so; the only way to increase ridigidity is to either use a material with a higher modulus or to increase the diameter of the bar, which has a large effect; a 1 -1/4" bar has 5 time the rigidity as a 1" diameter, or to reduce overhang; about the largest ratio of overhang for efficient work is 5 or 6 to one, dia. VS overhang.  As to boring bars, my all time favorite when it comes to HSS is the line of  Bokum tools, with solid (integral) shanks and the screw on types; they are made in lead, flat bottom, threading, chamfering and grooving styles from tiny to BIG, they are form relieved and all are sharpened by grinding ONLY the  top surface of the tool.


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## Mutt (Dec 6, 2016)

Big Bore Builder said:


> Photos:
> 
> A few of the boring bars in the shop.    Several more are on the machines.
> 
> ...


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## Mutt (Dec 6, 2016)

OOps. don't know what happened here. 

Ben,

 What brand lathe is that and how do you set up a sprocket, so the center hole runs true to the o.d. of the teeth?


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## benmychree (Dec 6, 2016)

I did not post any pictures of a lathe, and where did the discussion of boring sprockets come from?  As to boring sprockets, one must, of course line up to the pitch diameter of the teeth, which should be the same and concentric with the OD of the teeth; many times this is not so easy with, especially a plate type sprocket with no hub; if it has a hup, the hub is likely concentric with the PD and OD of the sprocket, and likely if the sprocket has an existing bore, it can be used to indicate in the sprocket in the lathe chuck.  Chucking the OD of a sprocket can be problematic, such as with a plate sprocket with no hub, but this can be accomplished by making a "pot chuck", a ring that has a shoulder in the ID and fits closely on the sprocket OD and is machined concentric in the chuck it is to be held in; after machining it, it is split with a saw cut on one side and acts as a collet to chuck a sprocket without damaging the teeth.


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## Big Bore Builder (Dec 7, 2016)

Mutt said:


> OOps. don't know what happened here.
> 
> Ben,
> 
> What brand lathe is that and how do you set up a sprocket, so the center hole runs true to the o.d. of the teeth?



Real simple.

When sprockets are manufactured the center hole, or pilot hole, is the main index for the tooth milling.

Simply put, the blank, with center hole (called pilot bore by machinists} fits over the arbor in the milling fixture that the teeth are milled in.

So the teeth and pitch diameter are true to the pilot bore.

When machining a sprocket to a larger bore, as shown in my photo, the pilot bore and the face of the sprocket are indicated true to the lathe.

Now the pitch diameter is true to the lathe centerline.

Look close and you can see copper strips between the jaws and the sprocket teeth.

Machine away!

The lathe is a 14x40 Jet Gear Head that I purchased new in 1981.  It has been a good machine, I have many thousands of hours on it.


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## Chipper5783 (Dec 8, 2016)

benmychree said:


> As to boring bars, my all time favorite when it comes to HSS is the line of  Bokum tools, with solid (integral) shanks and the screw on types; they are made in lead, flat bottom, threading, chamfering and grooving styles from tiny to BIG, they are form relieved and all are sharpened by grinding ONLY the  top surface of the tool.



Where can you get Bokum tooling?  Are Ifanger and Hufnagel interchangeable with Bokum?


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