# Enco (RF30) 110v wiring



## tcweb (Sep 14, 2018)

I'm sorry for posting, there must be dozens of posts on this topic, but I think I've found them all, and they don't apply to my mill.

I have a new (to me) enco mill drill.  About 600lbs of coolness, and was able to move the motor jumpers to get it to run on 110v.  
The ONLY issue is that the forward/reverse drum switch is backwards.  I figured it would be easy - locate the capacitor/start winding, reverse the leads, and I'd be good.

Not so easy, apparently - my drum switch has 12 contacts, and without taking everything apart, there's no way I can map it out.  

I'm hoping someone has an earlier enco mill/drill that uses the same reversing drum switch and 2HP Chinese motor.  (4L-90-4, I believe)

I'll attach the pics that I have.


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## tcweb (Sep 14, 2018)

I will take more pictures, and provide any additional details that may be needed.  I'd like to document this well enough for someone else coming along who has the same or similar setup.

Lastly, my assumption is that reversing the blue and brown wires at the motor terminal block may accomplish what I'm looking to do... (those are the terminal blocks marked Z1W1, Z2W2).  But since this config may have been wired wrong by a previous owner, I don't want to risk making changes until I'm a bit more confident.


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## Norseman C.B. (Sep 14, 2018)

Personally I prefer 220v as it has less draw on the power source
and more efficiency for use, MORE POWER MAN !!!!................


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## tcweb (Sep 14, 2018)

I can't be sure that someone didn't bungle up the wiring before I got it...it may run backwards at 220v as well.


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## markba633csi (Sep 15, 2018)

Swap the Z1 and Z2 that should do it.  
Norseman is correct, 220 volt is more efficient and your switches last longer
Mark


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## tcweb (Sep 15, 2018)

Thanks, I will try it.  I wish I could use 220v, but my garage is detached from the house, and is only wired for 110v.


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## tcweb (Sep 15, 2018)

Sure enough, swapping the blue and brown wires above changed the direction of the motor, so now forward and reverse match the drum switch labels.


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## Turnerb08 (May 11, 2021)

I know this is an old post but I'm not sure how to make a new one...I was wondering if anyone had a wiring diagram of this exact machine. I bought one just like this but the guy said the switch was bad, he started taking it apart and it fell all to pieces and he couldn't get it back together so I have no idea what wires went where on the switch...I have a new switch but can't seem to find anyone who can figure out how to wire it up...I appreciate any help I can get


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## tcweb (May 12, 2021)

See if the picture of the drum switch (above in this post) helps.  Not sure if you have the same factory wiring (colors, etc).

-Tom


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## markba633csi (May 12, 2021)

Hi Turner, can you post some pictures of your hardware?  Closeups of the motor and switch terminals would help
Did you buy the new switch yourself or was it included with the machine? Do you have a multimeter available?
-Mark


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## Turnerb08 (May 12, 2021)

Yes that's how mine is on the motor just don't know where to put the wires on the switch



tcweb said:


> See if the picture of the drum switch (above in this post) helps.  Not sure if you have the same factory wiring (colors, etc).
> 
> -Tom


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## Turnerb08 (May 12, 2021)

Y


markba633csi said:


> Hi Turner, can you post some pictures of your hardware?  Closeups of the motor and switch terminals would help
> Did you buy the new switch yourself or was it included with the machine? Do you have a multimeter available?
> -Mark


I bought the switch myself...I couldn't find an exact replacement of course..yes I have a multimeter...the switch may not work the same as the old one I'm not sure and have no way of finding out since it's in 100 pieces and seem to be several missing


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## Turnerb08 (May 12, 2021)

Y


markba633csi said:


> Hi Turner, can you post some pictures of your hardware?  Closeups of the motor and switch terminals would help
> Did you buy the new switch yourself or was it included with the machine? Do you have a multimeter available?
> -Mark


I bought the switch myself...I couldn't find an exact replacement of course..yes I have a multimeter...the switch may not work the same as the old one I'm not sure and have no way of finding out since it's in 100 pieces and seem to be several missing...


markba633csi said:


> Hi Turner, can you post some pictures of your hardware?  Closeups of the motor and switch terminals would help
> Did you buy the new switch yourself or was it included with the machine? Do you have a multimeter available?
> -Mark


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## markba633csi (May 12, 2021)

OK what you need to do then is "ring out" the switch using your ohmmeter.  You put the switch on one of the positions and see what connects to what. Then you put it to the other position and do the same. 
Make a chart of what you find and then we can hook it up.
-Mark
If any of that is unfamiliar just give a shout


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## markba633csi (May 13, 2021)

I didn't see that other posting- is this the diagram for the switch you have?
If so, we are already there.  The R1 and R2 go to the motor run windings, black and white (the strapped terminals)
The S1 and S2 go to the motor start leg, blue and brown. (swap if necessary for proper rotation)
The 120 volt power goes to the R and T
You need to attach several jumper wires (6 total) as shown between the various switch terminals
Ground wire is not shown but there should be one- tie to a screw on the motor case
-M


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## Turnerb08 (May 13, 2021)

Y


markba633csi said:


> Hi Turner, can you post some pictures of your hardware?  Closeups of the motor and switch terminals would help
> Did you buy the new switch yourself or was it included with the machine? Do you have a multimeter available?
> -Mark


I bought the switch myself...I couldn't find an exact replacement of course..yes I have a multimeter...the switch may not work the same as the old one I'm not sure and have no way of finding out since it's in 100 pieces and seem to be several missing...


markba633csi said:


> Hi Turner, can you post some pictures of your hardware?  Closeups of the motor and switch terminals would help
> Did you buy the new switch yourself or was it included with the machine? Do you have a multimeter available?
> -Mark





markba633csi said:


> OK what you need to do then is "ring out" the switch using your ohmmeter.  You put the switch on one of the positions and see what connects to what. Then you put it to the other position and do the same.
> Make a chart of what you find and then we can hook it up.
> -Mark
> If any of that is unfamiliar just give a shout





markba633csi said:


> I didn't see that other posting- is this the diagram for the switch you have?
> If so, we are already there.  The R1 and R2 go to the motor run windings, black and white (the strapped terminals)
> The S1 and S2 go to the motor start leg, blue and brown. (swap if necessary for proper rotation)
> The 120 volt power goes to the R and T
> ...


Yes sir that's what I have I'm fixing to give it a try...the switch came with little metal jumpers on it, the old switch Used 5 jumper wires and two of them where connected with the black wire coming from the motor


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## Turnerb08 (May 13, 2021)

Turnerb08 said:


> Y
> 
> I bought the switch myself...I couldn't find an exact replacement of course..yes I have a multimeter...the switch may not work the same as the old one I'm not sure and have no way of finding out since it's in 100 pieces and seem to be several missing...
> 
> ...


Awesome it works...what is the deal with the yellow wire is it only used in 220 or something?


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## Turnerb08 (May 13, 2021)

Turnerb08 said:


> Y
> 
> I bought the switch myself...I couldn't find an exact replacement of course..yes I have a multimeter...the switch may not work the same as the old one I'm not sure and have no way of finding out since it's in 100 pieces and seem to be several missing...
> 
> ...





markba633csi said:


> I didn't see that other posting- is this the diagram for the switch you have?
> If so, we are already there.  The R1 and R2 go to the motor run windings, black and white (the strapped terminals)
> The S1 and S2 go to the motor start leg, blue and brown. (swap if necessary for proper rotation)
> The 120 volt power goes to the R and T
> ...


Thank you mark it worked...can you tell me what the yellow wire is for?


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## markba633csi (May 13, 2021)

Let me take a look, as you said it's probably an extra
Yes it's an extra one maybe for an accessory or light,  just tape it up and ignore it
Glad you got it working!


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## Turnerb08 (May 13, 2021)

markba633csi said:


> Let me take a look, as you said it's probably an extra
> Yes it's an extra one maybe for an accessory or light,  just tape it up and ignore it
> Glad you got it working!


10 4...Do you have any idea where I could find the depth gauge assembly this is all I have of it


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## Turnerb08 (May 13, 2021)

markba633csi said:


> Let me take a look, as you said it's probably an extra
> Yes it's an extra one maybe for an accessory or light,  just tape it up and ignore it
> Glad you got it working!


Thanks man I really appreciate it


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## markba633csi (May 13, 2021)

You're very welcome 
Depth gauge- Ebay maybe?
-M


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## Turnerb08 (May 13, 2021)

markba633csi said:


> You're very welcome
> Depth gauge- Ebay maybe?
> -M


I haven't seen very many parts for these things anywhere on the internet...may just have to make my own, be more anyway


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## markba633csi (May 13, 2021)

What about putting one of those digital gizmos on it?  Electronic depth gauge
I think they are cheap


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## Turnerb08 (May 13, 2021)

markba633csi said:


> What about putting one of those digital gizmos on it?  Electronic depth gauge
> I think they are cheap


Yep I have found one of those...might give that a try


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