# Help me spend some money please



## killswitch505 (May 27, 2017)

okay guys i want to make some 3"x3" V-blocks ranging in length. Please forgive my ignorance as I'm learning as I go and don't want to waste any money on the wrong tooling. From the research I've done looks like HSS silting saw is the best way to go about this. I'm thinking 4" x 1/8"? so I'm  looking at the good ol grizzly catalog. the arbor I'm seeing is a step up 1/2-1" seems like it could be pretty versatile being able handle a range of saws but From what I'm seeing most saws have a 1" arbor. would it be better to just get a 1" arbor?


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## woodchucker (May 27, 2017)

I would use some roughing end mills and create the v, set the block at 45, or tilt your head to 45, then use the end mill to cut it out.  The slitting saw would not necessarily be accurate.
After roughing to shape finish with a 2,3 or 4 flute end mill.

That's what I would do.


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## Bob Korves (May 27, 2017)

What kind of mill will you be doing it on, and what kind of low speeds does it have?


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## killswitch505 (May 27, 2017)

It's an enco 105-1145 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




it has a high and a low each having a high medium and low speed I can't find much info on the machine


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## killswitch505 (May 27, 2017)

Woodchucker thank you for the reply that was my initial thought. I other than this forum and YouTube I don't really have anyone's brain to pick. Heck I don't even know  terminology of what I'm trying to do half the time to google how to do it.


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## darkzero (May 27, 2017)

In regards to the slitting saw arbor, I'm personally not a fan of those stepped arbors. I would recommend just getting a 1" arbor or make your own. 1" hole is pretty common & is what I usually by, cover most all of my needs.

Arbors are not hard to make (if you have a lathe). Commercially available ones are pretty expensive, hardened & ground, and even the expensive ones will still have noticeable radial runout (not really that important though but axial runout is) . 

I have an import 1" arbor but I got it for cheap on ebay. It's been working fine for me but I'm still planning on making some more of my own in the future.


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## Bob Korves (May 28, 2017)

I cannot find a manual online either, or speeds information.  Slitting saws can get really cranky if they are not turning the right speed and advancing the correct feed for the cutter diameter and the number of teeth.  It can get ugly quickly, and having some numbers to get in the ballpark from the beginning usually makes the job go smoother.  Dodging flying pieces of saw blades and workpiece is not really a lot of fun for most of us...

Edit: If nothing else, get a non contact tachometer from eBay direct from China for under $10.  They work great!


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## Silverbullet (May 28, 2017)

Your mills head will tilt to 45degrees , I'd use endmills like woodpecker said , ruff it out close to your depth , then switch out to a fly cutter . If you don't have one it's a good project for later. Now if you have one set your mill on its slowest speed do your finish cuts with that . When you've done both sides , you should do half of the 45 then do the other. After there done , set your v block flat in the vise and mill a small slot in the bottom of your v , about 1/8" or close to it about 1/16 " deep. If you plan on making clamps then turn onto each side and cut 1/4" x 1/8 deep. If your making clamps ill need your sizes when done.
If you have a vertical bandsaw you can cut the ruff out of the v on that. About the best I can do to help here.
Your mill is a rongfu 40 made in Thailand look at grizzly line up for one copy like yours they carry and download a pdf free.  Also I should have said start with squared metal which a fly cutter is designed for ease of.


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## Superburban (May 28, 2017)

Google rung fu 40, RF-40, ect. Your mill is just a renamed Rung fu 40. a rung fu 45 is the same head, but on a square column base. Find several different brands, and see what the speeds are. There is also 12 speed versions floating around, they are the same head, but with a 2 speed motor on the top. I think Grizzly even has a version, that you can get the manual for.


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## darkzero (May 28, 2017)

The spindle speeds should be listed on the face plate to the left of the depth stop/scale. Is it unlegible?


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## darkzero (May 28, 2017)

Found a pic and of all places here on H-M. Speeds should be hopefully be some what similar. A bit different than my PM45 with similar head.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/attachments/dscf2958-jpg.96769/


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## killswitch505 (May 28, 2017)

Shoot thanks a lot y'all!!!! I will be going the end mill direction.


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## rolleikin (May 29, 2017)

killswitch505 said:


> okay guys i want to make some 3"x3" V-blocks ranging in length. Please forgive my ignorance as I'm learning as I go and don't want to waste any money on the wrong tooling. From the research I've done looks like HSS silting saw is the best way to go about this. I'm thinking 4" x 1/8"? so I'm  looking at the good ol grizzly catalog. the arbor I'm seeing is a step up 1/2-1" seems like it could be pretty versatile being able handle a range of saws but From what I'm seeing most saws have a 1" arbor. would it be better to just get a 1" arbor?


You are approaching it all wrong. Slitting saws are not the solution to making deep cuts like you are contemplating. Cut your block to size, set it up to 45 degrees in a jig and mill your v using an end mill. Flip it on the other side and mill the second side of the v.  Use a slitting saw to make your relief cut at the bottom of the v. Then figure a way to harden your block. Finally, surface grind it to final size. 
Andrei

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Tapatalk


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## markba633csi (May 29, 2017)

I'm with Silverbullet; rough the v with a bandsaw then mill it to size.  Slitting saws are not good for cutting out large chunks of material. 
Mark S.


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## Bob Korves (May 29, 2017)

rolleikin said:


> You are approaching it all wrong. Slitting saws are not the solution to making deep cuts like you are contemplating. Cut your block to size, set it up to 45 degrees in a jig and mill your v using an end mill. Flip it on the other side and mill the second side of the v.  Use a slitting saw to make your relief cut at the bottom of the v. Then figure a way to harden your block. Finally, surface grind it to final size.
> Andrei
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Tapatalk


That is the way I would do it!


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## kd4gij (May 30, 2017)

I say buy the slitting saws. Never pass up an opportunity to buy new tools. Then use the endmills to cut the V blocks. or buy cheap V blocks on eBay.






 I always like spending someone else's money.


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## chips&more (May 30, 2017)

Don’t get me wrong. I totally understand the pride and satisfaction of making stuff. But when you can get the blocks like in the link below. Sometimes you gotta re-think things out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-CAST-IRON...087075?hash=item25d688ea63:g:E0EAAOSwNSxVZ5pP


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## Bob Korves (May 30, 2017)

chips&more said:


> Don’t get me wrong. I totally understand the pride and satisfaction of making stuff. But when you can get the blocks like in the link below. Sometimes you gotta re-think things out.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-CAST-IRON...087075?hash=item25d688ea63:g:E0EAAOSwNSxVZ5pP


Yes.  You cannot buy the metal for that price...


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## killswitch505 (Jun 2, 2017)

Thanks guys for pointing me in the right direction!!! I will more than likely pick up a set of V bocks to use as a jig to mill the V in the couple of fixtures I'm needing to build a Remington 700 action jig and a bolt jig. Main purpose is to just get some build time on my machine.


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## rolleikin (Jun 2, 2017)

Bob Korves said:


> Yes.  You cannot buy the metal for that price...


The price of steel is about 10 cent per pound. This is if you buy lots of tons, straight from the mill. In China, the price is about 50 cents per pound for small scale manufacturers. What we pay here at retail is terribly expensive, by comparison. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Tapatalk


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## GL (Sep 11, 2017)

One advantage to building your own v-block for a rifle action is you can make it the length you need, which makes aligning things easier.   If you make the v off center, you can clamp it to the table on the "wide" side, aligned to the machine.  The action can be clamped to the block from the table on the "narrow " side, and therefore to the machine-and be repositioned if required.  In this case one may be better than two. 

The tilt the head 45 degree method is best.  And best if you tilt left/right with the direction of cut into the column - less deflection than along the length of the table.  The slot at the bottom of a v-block is to hold square stock - you probably don't care for a rifle action.  As suggested by others, if you need the bottom clearance, add it with a small diameter end mill.

On the other hand...special tooling is better for special jobs. Buying v- blocks gives you flexibility for other jobs later. In your case it might be to support the action on one end, the installed barrel (with shims to correct the height difference) on the other end to drill a hole for a front sight.  All depends on how often you do an operation, plus the whole coolness factor thing. Of course, since I'm spending your money-do both.


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## killswitch505 (Sep 11, 2017)

GL, thanks for the advice. I'd like to make the V block for long and short actions. Also would like to make it so I can add a jig to mill a bolt release. Got a lot of ideas rolling around up here now I need to find the time to actually do the work.


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