# My first lathe



## Litshoot (Apr 4, 2021)

So just pick up my first lathe still havemt even gotten. A place for it yet.  Going to need some love and some setup. Maybe restore in the future but I like the look and patena.  
      Now for the questions, im looking for some good places to learn how to better operate this machine. Perhaps some good youtubers to follow, currently watched blondihacks, some tot, and searching still. 
       For a bench is a thick wood bench(2x4,6,8,10s) or am I better welding up a heavy metal table have some 2x4x1/8 steel tube, and can cover in 1/8 or 1/4 if better plate.  
      What's some good things to go through before turning it on, planning on scotch brite and cleaning the ways, wiping and cleaning all I can and coating them with way oil, what oil do I use for the bearing on headstock and screw drives. I've heard bearing grease for the gears.  
       With that serial number any idea of when it's made, by other machines numbers I'm guessing 1927-1929. Are there other markings I should find to identify the build.  
        I want a 4 jaw and a steady rest. Been thinking of building the rest, but is there a good source for these parts that would be cheaper or easier. Have heard possibly heavy 10 parts.  
       Sorry for the large range of beginner questions. I looked for "sticky" section but didn't find any direct answers. Thanks and hopefully itll be running soon, bought some scrap delrin to start on as a soft open style start.  
Seth


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## Nogoingback (Apr 4, 2021)

Congrats on your new lathe!  It looks like a nice machine.  You're right that a good place to start is cleaning and 
lubrication. Mobil sells Velocite Spindle Oil in various grades.  Someone else can chime in on exactly which 
would be appropriate for your machine.  I use open gear grease on my geartrain, though some folks avoid grease
because can pick up chips.  As long as my cover is closed, I haven't found that to be a problem.

If you're looking for videos online, the vids by Tubalcain are a good place to start.  He's a former high school shop 
teacher so his explanations are thorough, if somewhat long winded.  He has a huge number of videos:


			MACHINE SHOP TIPS
		


A good basic reference is a book published by South Bend called "How To Run A Lathe", which was published for 
years.  You can buy it here:  https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/Bo...+To+Run+A+Lathe&cm_sp=snippet-_-srp1-_-title2

Lots of small lathes have been bolted to sturdy wooden benches over the years, but if you can weld, a purpose built stand
would be ideal.  A number of folks build them around a tool box that sits under the lathe. 

If you want to buy a steady rest, have a look at eBay.  There are chucks available there as well, though a lot of them are
worn out, so you need to be picky.  Of course there are new chucks available as well in a variety of prices!  You probably
should  budget for a quick change tool post setup as well.   There are many to choose from but typically they come in 2 flavors:
American (expensive) and Chinese (much less expensive).  My preference is for the Chinese stuff sold by All Industrial
on eBay.  They're nicely made and well finished, and the price is very good.


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## benmychree (Apr 4, 2021)

The serial number would indicate somewhere between 1925 and 1927, likely 1926.  !925 starts with 28714, 1027 starts with 3600.  Find a copy of "How to Run a Lathe" by South Bend Lathe Works, an older copy would relate more to your lathe than a newer copy.


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## Litshoot (Apr 4, 2021)

Thanks,  i planned to purpose build either bench and have shelves or something under. Wasnt sure if wood would actually absorbs vibrations and help steady and quiet the machine
Seth


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## benmychree (Apr 4, 2021)

I avoid grease on open gears, especially change gears, you will know why when you have to handle the gears when changing them for threading or feed changes.  A small amount of oil applied occasionally will suffice.


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## benmychree (Apr 4, 2021)

Litshoot said:


> Thanks,  i planned to purpose build either bench and have shelves or something under. Wasnt sure if wood would actually absorbs vibrations and help steady and quiet the machine
> Seth


I think that wood will absorb vibration and noise better than steel.  I built a bench for both a work surface and lathe platform;  I used 4 X 12 for the top.


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## Litshoot (Apr 4, 2021)

benmychree said:


> I think that wood will absorb vibration and noise better than steel.  I built a bench for both a work surface and lathe platform;  I used 4 X 12 for the top.


Wow don't have wood that thick for it, could probably RIP it down and stack it sideways.  Or buy a bunch of 2x4s and do the same. Did it make a change ornyou never ran yours off the wood bench. Did you bolt it down or have it sitting on top.


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## benmychree (Apr 4, 2021)

Small lathes need to be bolted down.  Note that yours has 2 pads under the headstock and one centered on the tailstock end, so that it will not twist the bed when bolted down. An old friend told me a story of when he was working in a shop and was working on a small lathe on floor legs that was not bolted to the floor and was driven by overhead countershaft from a lineshaft; he went to shift the belt while the machine was running, which is customary, the belt fell off the upper pulley and got tangled up in the clutch next to the pulley and started winding up the belt and drawing the lathe up to the countershaft, when the belt finally broke, the lathe came crashing down to the floor, breaking the legs and whatever else ---  courtesy of Harold (Shorty) Muller, long since passed.
Yes, I did bolt it down to the bench.


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## silverhawk (Apr 4, 2021)

My 22YB, serial no 47049, was first sold in January of 1930.  With a serial number that much lower, I think benmychree is right - look between 1925 and 1927.

As a model 22, you should know that current 9" accessories will not fit.  The 22 is also referred to as a "junior", or even a "wide 9".  The bed is closer to a heavy 10 lathe than the 9" "toolroom" lathes that are so prevalent.  They transitioned from the "wide 9" lathe bed starting in the mid 1930's, and by 1940, South Bend had sold all of the old stock for the wide variety.

Your spindle thread will be a 1-1/2"-8 - so once you have things cleaned up, mounted on a stand, and oiled, look for a backplate to match that and also match a chuck you want to look at.  I'd suggest nothing bigger than a 5" chuck, the little 3" I have is awesome.  The chuck back plate should be the first thing you machine.  Your inside-spindle is a 3/4" through-hole, but it will accept a morse taper 3 accessory.  The tailstock will be a morse taper 2, so if you need a drill chuck for the tailstock or a live center, that's what you'll be looking for.

For accessories, you will see them come up once in a while.  Take your time, and enjoy the learning curve of picking up what you need.  There are plenty of resources here who can help.  My discovery for the junior started http://www.silverhawk.net/2015/11/new-south-bend-9x19-lathe.html, including the date/time of purchase through South Bend's current owner.


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## benmychree (Apr 4, 2021)

silverhawk said:


> My 22YB, serial no 47049, was first sold in January of 1930.  With a serial number that much lower, I think benmychree is right - look between 1925 and 1927.
> 
> As a model 22, you should know that current 9" accessories will not fit.  The 22 is also referred to as a "junior", or even a "wide 9".  The bed is closer to a heavy 10 lathe than the 9" "toolroom" lathes that are so prevalent.  They transitioned from the "wide 9" lathe bed starting in the mid 1930's, and by 1940, South Bend had sold all of the old stock for the wide variety.
> 
> ...


My serial number information comes from "Metalworking Machinery Serial Number Reference Book" C 1959, 1963 revision, published by the Industrial Publishing Corporation.  About all used machinery dealers had them.  Most of the years are sequential, why the gap of 1926 is not known.


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## bill70j (Apr 4, 2021)

Litshoot said:


> Wow don't have wood that thick for it, could probably RIP it down and stack it sideways.  Or buy a bunch of 2x4s and do the same. Did it make a change ornyou never ran yours off the wood bench. Did you bolt it down or have it sitting on top.


Welcome Litshoot!

Atlas used to sell hardwood benches for their lathes.  An example is shown in this document which is filed in the Downloads section of this site.

I used the Atlas bench design as a starting point for the one under my 10" Atlas lathe.  It is bolted to the concrete floor and has a top that is a lamination of 2x4's on their sides - just as you suggested.   Also, I included 1/4" thick steel pads to fit under the lathe bed feet which makes leveling the machine a lot easier and long lasting.

Good luck with your new machine - and we look forward to pictures as you get it mounted and make some chips!!

Bill


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## Just for fun (Apr 4, 2021)

Congratulations on the new lathe! 

One thing for sure you won't have to worry about electronics going bad.


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## Ulma Doctor (Apr 4, 2021)

welcome to the forum!
i wish i started on a lathe that cool!
you'll have years of fun making stuff, so get to it!!!


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## brino (Apr 4, 2021)

@Litshoot 

Hi Seth, 

That is a great looking lathe you have there. Congratulations.

Welcome to the group!

-brino


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## markba633csi (Apr 4, 2021)

Nice old Southie, you'll have fun with that
-Mark


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## Lastwagen (Apr 5, 2021)

Seth, 
Welcome to the group. I also run a SB 9” Junior, 1929 vintage. Here’s a good tip for restoring an old vintage SB lathe: clean it, but do not, do not remove any of the old paint. I know, the temptation is to scour it down to clean metal, but the machine was originally coated with japanning to protect the metal. It’s better and longer lasting than paint. 

Think of it as a coating, which in that era, before plastics, it was the most durable, flexible coating used in manufacturing. Ask Henry Ford, he used it on everything! 

You can’t buy japanning today, some do mix it from old recipes. A lot of toxic chemicals go into it so you have to know what you’re doing to make it. 

To restore the places where the japanning is gone, just spot clean, and then overcoat with a black satin spray paint for an authentic look. I learned that technique from Keith Rucker over on Vintage Machinery website. 

I enjoy running my SB in the shop, learning as I go. That flat belt drive has been very forgiving! But be careful and get yourself a copy of HTRAL , it’s a great book of knowledge!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Litshoot (Apr 5, 2021)

So your saying restoration wise, acetone on scotch brite to clean and knock off anything loose for paint prep then flat black?


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## Litshoot (Apr 5, 2021)

So odd questions I found 3 versions of htral by south bend a 24th edition, 41st edition and 42 edition.  All are reproduction, and 42nd is longest and newest(1942), but would the 1924, or 1941(doubtful) be better options for my specific lathe. It's a 40 dollar difference


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## brino (Apr 6, 2021)

Litshoot said:


> It's a 40 dollar difference



If you are comfortable with PDF versions there are several in our downloads area.
You do need to be a contributing member to download, but it is cost effective.
Silver membership at $10/year will get you no ads, full use of downloads, and some other benefits, see here:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...p-levels-permissions-and-site-features.81683/

In fact, there are 10 pages of "stuff" for South Bend lathes in our downloads area.

Here are the three versions just listed on page 1:
SB How to Run a Lathe for Beginners - 1914 15th Edition
SB How To Run a Lathe - 1966 27th Edition (56).pdf
SB How to Run a Lathe - 1914 3rd Edition.pdf

-brino


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## Litshoot (Apr 6, 2021)

brino said:


> no ads


thats a pretty solid reason to be a member. the 43rd edition( think theyre using date as edition) is 6 dollars new or 5 used shipped, just curious if the early version might be better to understand my early lathe. the 1914 printing is supposed to cover 1906-1930. and other 2 are slightly longer and covering later years.


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## craptain (Apr 6, 2021)

Don't worry about which edition. Any one of them will give you the basics and that's what you need right now. Most important is learning how to maintain and set up the lathe. Then you can turn to YouTube. Tubalcain is very good because he taught at high school level. Another favorite of mine is The Lazy Machinist. He also used to teach, but in Canada. I actually prefer him to Tubalcain because he doesn't ramble on and get off subject so much. 
Good luck. 

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk


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## Lastwagen (Apr 7, 2021)

I would opt for the book. Any edition will suffice. The book is just handy to have at your fingertips, nothing to tie you to reading it at a viewer.... I guess I’m just old school, right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jwmelvin (Apr 7, 2021)

[mention]Litshoot [/mention] can you send me a PM with your address? I’ll send you a copy. I believe I have one for you.


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## Winegrower (Apr 7, 2021)

Congratulations on your first lathe.   It won’t be your last.


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## Litshoot (Apr 7, 2021)

Winegrower said:


> Congratulations on your first lathe.   It won’t be your last.


Thats what im afraid of, i need a mill next. well take it slow.
Seth


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