# Parts Washer Tank



## Kroll (Sep 4, 2014)

Guys over the yrs I have taken apart,scrub,clean several machines from woodworking to metal working over the yrs.Today I pull the trigger on a 40gal parts washing tank(used).You can seat the part in the bottom of tank to soak or seat it on a rack,turn on the pump to wash the part.Its my first time for this type of tool so my question is what solution or chemical do I need to purchase for one of those cleaning tanks that will acturally clean that can be purchase local or over the net?Nothing that I will need to keep the local fire departments Hazmat on standby.Thanks----kroll


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## zmotorsports (Sep 4, 2014)

You want a solvent with a high flash point yet something that won't evaporate very fast.  I use a product called Dyna 143 made by ZEP.  I have also purchased some from my local NAPA parts store but the last time I replaced it in my solvent tank I got a better price on the ZEP because I purchased more than 10 gallons.

Mike.


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## NightWing (Sep 4, 2014)

All is well and good with your solvent tank until it comes time to dispose of the dirty solvent.  It is now regulated waste.  Years back when I had my manufacturing company, regulated waste cost me $180/drum to dispose of.

Possibly the best solution (no pun intended) would be to get a Safety-Kleen service that services your tank every so often.  You will always have cleaner solvent, new filters and whatever the tank needs.  They handle the state manifest from cradle to grave and all the paperwork involved.

I was always very cautious whenever any kind of fluid came into my shop.  Simple household chemicals you use at home and dump down the drain cannot be disposed of the same way in a manufacturing environment.  If you get caught...


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## Shadowdog500 (Sep 4, 2014)

I use PSC1000 from tractor supply.  The stuff works great!!!
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/crownreg;-psc-1000-parts-cleaner-5-gal


Check for coupons, tractor supply always seems to have a $5 or $10 coupon floating around.
http://stcouponcodes.com/tractor-supply-company-coupon-codes/

Chris


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## Shadowdog500 (Sep 4, 2014)

NightWing said:


> All is well and good with your solvent tank until it comes time to dispose of the dirty solvent.  It is now regulated waste.  Years back when I had my manufacturing company, regulated waste cost me $180/drum to dispose of...



Check with your local utilities authority (or whatever it is called in your area).  My county has two household hazardous waste days a year where homeowners can dispose of oddball stuff like this in limited quantities for free.(ours is 25 gallons or 100 lb of hazardous waste)

Chris


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## JimDawson (Sep 4, 2014)

I use paint thinner (mineral spirits) in mine.  I change it out every couple of years or so.  The waste goes into my waste oil tank, which is burned in my waste oil burner over the winter.  The sludge in the recirc tank gets filtered out through a rag, evaporated out, and then goes in the trash.  Maybe a quart of so of sludge per year.


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## Ski (Sep 4, 2014)

I use mineral spirits also but I think there is a difference between paint thinner and mineral spirits. To clean tank ,I drain solvent out into 5 gal buckets. I let them settle and poor it back into the cleaned out tank. I usually end up with 2 gallons of sludge that goes out during hazardous collection in town. Keep the lid closed will help prevent evaporation. Mineral spirits doesn't freeze either which you don't have to sweat about. My tank is a 1962 vintage. Ski


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## Tony Wells (Sep 5, 2014)

I have a Varsol washer, and put about 3 gallons of water in first. Being heavier, it stays on the bottom. The solids that are washed into the barrel settle into the water layer and the solvent stays clean a long time. The pump is suspended just above the water line so only the solvent is recirculated. 

I have used straight mineral spirits, which is common paint thinner, and naptha. Varsol is easier on the hands. Unless you use one of the non-petroleum, green degreasers, yes.....it's a hazmat in most areas and must me dealt with accordingly.


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## zmotorsports (Sep 5, 2014)

NightWing said:


> All is well and good with your solvent tank until it comes time to dispose of the dirty solvent.  It is now regulated waste.  Years back when I had my manufacturing company, regulated waste cost me $180/drum to dispose of.
> 
> Possibly the best solution (no pun intended) would be to get a Safety-Kleen service that services your tank every so often.  You will always have cleaner solvent, new filters and whatever the tank needs.  They handle the state manifest from cradle to grave and all the paperwork involved.
> 
> I was always very cautious whenever any kind of fluid came into my shop.  Simple household chemicals you use at home and dump down the drain cannot be disposed of the same way in a manufacturing environment.  If you get caught...



I forgot to mention this as well.  In my ZEP solvent tank it has a filtration system that I turn on about once a month for a day while I am in the shop working.  It does a great job and I merely have to swap out the filters every 6-8 months and the solvent about everty two years.  I have a local disposal location where I dispose of the old solvent when I switch it over.

It is worth checking in to before pulling the trigger and then a year or so down the road no knowing what to do with a drum/tank full of dirty solvent that you can't get rid of.

Mike.


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## The Landshark (Sep 5, 2014)

I've been using diesel in mine for years, it removes oil and dirt fine, mostly motorbike engines going in it,
When it gets too dirty i filter it into the tractor fuel tank, it doesnt seem to mind, the sludge goes off with the old oil filters when they start building up


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## sd624 (Sep 5, 2014)

+1 one on diesel.


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## Kroll (Sep 5, 2014)

Thanks guys for the responses to my question.I see that there is lots of choices on cleaning fluids for parts washers.I also like the ideal of diesel fuel.But the guy I purchase this from has three or had three of these parts washers and like Tony couple others he only use Varsol,he also said that it can be purchase from auto parts houses but I google varsol but no place pop up that sales varsol.Any ideals on where to check?


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## davidh (Sep 5, 2014)

Kroll said:


> Thanks guys for the responses to my question.I see that there is lots of choices on cleaning fluids for parts



have you considered LPS products ?   i have used this in my tool repair business for many years, non flamable and the stuff that gets into it actually settles out.  i think its LPS-1 oiless lubricant by actual name.


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## Kroll (Sep 5, 2014)

LPS added to the choice list and it sounds very good.I did find out that my parts washer will hold 45gals of cleaner and it has a hand held sprayer and a continuous flow flexible hose.But in the bottom of the tank is a steel tubing that goes across the width of tank with a hole every 3".Which I have no ideal what its for but maybe just for circulation
David,5gals of LPS-----259.00 which is in line with some of the other products for parts washer


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## BigSpike (Sep 26, 2014)

I have used Gunk S-C Super Concentrate degreaser for over 45 years
http://www.amazon.com/Gunk-SC3-Super-Concentrate-Degreaser/dp/B000ABIDJE
get it from NAPA or Amazon
mixes with no2 diesel and works very well
after cleaning parts can be blown dry or if washed off with water, the degreaser removes the diesel residue
1 gal makes 6-21 gallons depending on mix
your 45 gal wash tank will cost something like 43 gal diesel at $4/gal = $172 + 2 gal of concentrate at $36 = 72
for a total of $244 
there is the added bonus of longevity of the mix, my current parts washer was filled about 2.5 years ago & still cleans fine.


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## zmotorsports (Sep 26, 2014)

Kroll said:


> LPS added to the choice list and it sounds very good.I did find out that my parts washer will hold 45gals of cleaner and it has a hand held sprayer and a continuous flow flexible hose.But in the bottom of the tank is a steel tubing that goes across the width of tank with a hole every 3".Which I have no ideal what its for but maybe just for circulation
> David,5gals of LPS-----259.00 which is in line with some of the other products for parts washer



That is a nice size solvent tank.  The largest parts I fit into mine, or try to rather, are a transmission case.  Generally I wash from one end then flip it end for end and wash the other as it won't quite lie down in my ZEP tank.  

The last couple transmission I have done I just took to a local shop and they hot tanked them for me for $25.00.  Thought that was worth it.


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## Kroll (Sep 26, 2014)

Well guys I pick up afew gals of varsol,but I want to try and keep it clean if possible so zmotorsport do you have any picks of your filtering system?I sure would like to add that to my tank.Haven't put the varsol in yet,waiting for my next project.Guys thanks again for the suggestions


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## zmotorsports (Sep 26, 2014)

Kroll said:


> Well guys I pick up afew gals of varsol,but I want to try and keep it clean if possible so zmotorsport do you have any picks of your filtering system?I sure would like to add that to my tank.Haven't put the varsol in yet,waiting for my next project.Guys thanks again for the suggestions



I will get a couple of pictures of it while out in the shop working tomorrow.


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## Sandia (Sep 26, 2014)

Kroll said:


> Thanks guys for the responses to my question.I see that there is lots of choices on cleaning fluids for parts washers.I also like the ideal of diesel fuel.But the guy I purchase this from has three or had three of these parts washers and like Tony couple others he only use Varsol,he also said that it can be purchase from auto parts houses but I google varsol but no place pop up that sales varsol.Any ideals on where to check?



Kroll, I buy varsol from local fuel/oil bulk distributors. Last time I purchased 10 gal. it was up around $12.00 gallon. I was told Exxon in Houston is the only manufacturer. Going to change to something else, that is crazy. Lose a lot to evaporation, too expensive for that.....
Bob


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## GarageGuy (Sep 26, 2014)

The Landshark said:


> I've been using diesel in mine for years, it removes oil and dirt fine, mostly motorbike engines going in it,
> When it gets too dirty i filter it into the tractor fuel tank, it doesnt seem to mind, the sludge goes off with the old oil filters when they start building up



I was thinking along the same lines, only kerosene instead of diesel.  The sediment falls out after sitting for a day or two, and the kerosene on top can easily be burned in a shop heater.  The sludge can be burned in a small can, and what little ash is left over can be disposed of safely.  It is also relatively safe like diesel fuel as a solvent.

GG


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## davidh (Sep 27, 2014)

Kroll said:


> David,5gals of LPS-----259.00 which is in line with some of the other products for parts washer



the last time i bought a 5 gal container it was about the same price. . . .  i filtered it constantly using a large 10 mil (i think) replacement unit as in hydraulics filter.  it still needed to be de-gooped about every year,  drain it out slowly or thru the filter and scoop the goop from the low spots in the tank. . .


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## Kroll (Sep 28, 2014)

I pick up 5gal container for 46.00,they did not have it in stock but had it at their distribution center.Took couple days,but while the startup cost is kinda high by my standards,with motorsport filtering system hoping it will last a good while.I did price check mineral spirits and it was bout the same cost as varsol.Varsol and mineral spirits I think is bout the same thing so really don't know what the difference is.What I was after is parts that come out of the tank let dry then ready for paint without having to do anything extra to the part.Why varsol???Well the previous owner had three of these tanks,owner of some kind of hot rod shop and it was what he used.He said he had tried other products but went back to the varsol.
In the past(I will still use) Purple Power degreaser,and it works great and will remove paint.But would rinse the part off very well,dry the part using air hose put in the sun but I would still get flash rust.


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## Tony Wells (Sep 29, 2014)

Also, if memory serves, there is a popular solvent for this called "Stoddard" solvent. High flash point and not too harsh. I think generically it was called safety solvent. Might have a look at that also.


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## toolman_ar (Oct 4, 2014)

I will second the Tractor Supply fluid.

Cleans very well and last time I purchased it was about $40 for 5 gal.

toolman_ar


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## zmotorsports (Oct 7, 2014)

Kroll said:


> zmotorsport do you have any picks of your filtering system?I sure would like to add that to my tank.



Kroll, sorry for the delay, been busy as hell at work and at the shop lately and forgot about this until last night when I was using the solvent tank.

Here is an overview of the ZEP recycling solvent tank.  The barrell is a 30-gallon drum that the tank sits on.  There is also a large filter that ZEP calls a "combo filter" that resides in the drum and the pump sits just outside of it.  As the solvent is drained from the washing tank to the drum it enters the middle of the "combo filter" and then moves to the outside, between the drum and the filter, where the pump is located.



Inside of the washing tank.  The horsehair mat and expanded metal I installed, again as another filtering media to prevent the large stuff from entering the drum.  There is another filter under the square metal cover to the right.



ZEP calls this the "sandbag filter".  It is merely a bag of sand type media to filter the solvent.  Originally it was designed to disconnect the brush from the hose and just connect the hose to the fitting at the top of the sandbag filter.  I chose to put a ball-valve at the point where the solvent enters the washing tank to switch from the hose/brush to the sandbag filter(can be seen in above picture).  I will generally run this filtering system once a month for a full-day while I am in the shop working such as a Saturday.  This is the only filter that you actually have to "activate", all others are filtered as the solvent is flowing normally.  One "sandbag filter" will last about a year in my tank.



Here is the last filter on the tank.  It is part #5110 and that is all I know it by and reference it by.  It is a yarn style that resides inside the housing.  The solvent flows from the pump in the drum through this filter and then up to the backside of the washing tank where it enters and can then go either through the hose or through the "sandbag filter".  There is also a gate valve on the exit port of the filter housing to control flow through the hose.  This is how I know when my filter (5110) is starting to get restrictive, when I have to open the valve all the way up and the flow is decreasing I know it is time to change the 5110 filter.  I generally change about two of these a year.



Not filter related but I fabricated a small shelf that hangs on the side of the tank to set my parts on once cleaned.  I put an absorbent pad down and change it out as it gets gross looking.



I also want to mention that I am anal about what goes into my solvent tank.  At work it bugs the living crap out of me to see what the guys throw into the solvent tank.  They will drop a gearbox coated with a half an inch of grease/dirt right into the tank to clean it.

I do NOT do that at my home shop.  I always scrape the heavy coated stuff off prior to putting the part into the solvent tank for cleaning.  This is probably why I only have to change my solvent out every several years or so.

I hope that helps you visualize the ZEP filtering sytem.

Also for reference I have added a link to the ZEP Dyna Clean tank/basin.
http://www.zepequipment.com/products/category/parts_washers/solvent_pw#!prettyPhoto

I also use the ZEP Dyna 143 solvent as I get a pretty good deal on it as it is the same stuff we use at work and they sell it to me at the same cost.


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## Kroll (Oct 8, 2014)

*AWESOME* Mike,thank you for taking the time to post pics and give a discription.I went to the link and pick the manual found the parts numbers for the inline filters.So tomorrow I will call ZEP and see what that will cost me.Seeing the system maybe a fuel filter or diesel/water seperator will work just as well.With the cost of cleaner it will pay off to pre clean like you do then run it through the filter system.-----kroll


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