# Relocating my shop - advice wanted



## kevin (Feb 20, 2017)

In the next couple of months I will be selling my house and moving to a new home 150 miles away. Along with the usual misery of moving all my furniture, etc., I will also be moving the contents of my home shop - 3 lathes, a benchtop mill, workbenches, tooling, grinders, table saw, bandsaw, power tools, garage tools, lumber, raw metal stock, etc.

Some of the stuff is in my basement, so moving that stuff will be fun. At the new house, I'll be moving metal shop stuff into the basement (has a ground level walk in, so that will help), and wood shop stuff into the garage.

No doubt there are others out there who have gone through this before, so I'm asking: What lessons did you learn from relocating your shop? What worked well? What didn't work? Any and all advice welcomed.


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## DougD (Feb 20, 2017)

Unfortunately I have moved and had to reset up my shop too many times. You are lucky it is 150 miles not thousands!
To respond to your questions without a dissertation on the possibilities I need to know more.
Are you moving yourself or a moving company? Are you doing all the packing?
Do you have overlapping times? In other words do you have time to move sections and set up before you have to be totally moved?
Sounds like you are complicating it too by separating/dividing to two shops (yep did that too).
I'd be glad to offer opinions, but at least know you will be between an adventure and nightmare.
doug


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## Groundhog (Feb 20, 2017)

Only thing I learned from a 1,000 mile move is that "I'll never do THAT again!" 

Good help (a musician who moves his Hammond B3 organ weekly), right tools (dollies, jacks, etc.), heavy plywood over any sod/ground.


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## DHarris (Feb 20, 2017)

While not actually for the move itself,  make sure you have all of the AC power, lighting & actual machine layouts finalized before your move - - - that way you only have to move the heavy stuff ONCE - - - wish I'd thought of that on the last move - - -


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## kevin (Feb 20, 2017)

Doug - Good questions, here is my plan so far:

I will hire a moving company to move the household stuff (furniture, etc.). I will probably hire some help to get the heavy stuff out of the basement; I may also have them move the stuff to the new location. I plan to move toolboxes and "loose tools" (which I will pack) myself, as well as tooling and accessories.

The old house and the new house will both be available for a while, so I don't have to move everything at once. I'll be going back and forth a few times while I get the old house ready for sale, so I can take a trailer load each time.

The reason I have two shops is that I do the wood shop stuff in the garage - I don't have a dust collection system so an open garage door is the next best thing to keeping air-born dust levels down. Unfortunately this limits wood working to the warmer months (I'm in Michigan). All the metal shop stuff goes in the basement, so I can work there year-round.


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## CluelessNewB (Feb 20, 2017)

Move what you can yourself.   99.9% of the employees of moving companies don't have a clue about moving machines, expect them to lift machines using crank handles and pulleys.  If you can, do any wiring and painting before you move the equipment in.  Tools are heavy, movers charge by weight, let them handle the light household stuff, move the heavy stuff yourself.  It may be cheaper to buy a used enclosed trailer and use it for several trips, you can typically sell it for what you paid for it.  You can't have too much lighting in your shop.  Have a yard sale before you move.   Have another yard sale after you move .  If you don't need it and you can't sell it donate it (Habitat For Humanity, Goodwill, Salvation Army).


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## brino (Feb 20, 2017)

Yep, I gotta echo the "move the machines yourself" comment above.
I read too many stories here of either incompetent or just unqualified (so called) "moving companies".
Sure the good ones are ensured but all that means you are on still the hook for getting a fair quote, chasing the company, buying the replacement, etc. If that all goes well, then its just a PITA and a big delay.......if it goes wrong then it's much worse.

If you really need to hire a machine move then you need to find an experienced machinery mover, set expectations about weight and top-heaviness, and build crates around the machines thus forcing them to lift it properly.

@Ulma Doctor did a video about building a crate around a lathe(or was it a shaper?).....I'm still trying to find it......will post back when I do....

Good luck with the move.......we all feel your pain!

-brino

EDIT: it was a lathe, here's a link to the videos:


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## rrjohnso2000 (Feb 20, 2017)

I would add. 

Heavywall small cardboard boxes do a decent job with tools. 

Milk crates are relatively cheap to purchase for some of the heavier/larger items. They stack well and are easy to secure. 

Good luck and start packing up now


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## dennys502 (Feb 20, 2017)

When I bought my mill I bolted it to 4 x 6 lumber that fit between the sides of the trailer. This keeps it from moving around. 
 I used carriage bolts from the bottom up and then strapped it down. 
I used them again when I bought my Lathe.


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## dlane (Feb 20, 2017)

I'm with Groundhog on this one , I recently moved about 200mi , I hired a well known moving co that had a hd (heavy duty) lift gate truck . They charged by volume not weight 
 The movers were basically clueless about moving machines /equipment 
After we got the heavy things in the truck I did all the tie down , braceing , screwed 2x4 into floor around machine bases and braced off walls with more wood then used hd ( heavy duty) ratchet straps to wall rails, The machines / equipment  I tied up were fine . It wasn't cheep but most everything made it ok, I don't plan on ever having to do this again.
Everything went into a ground level shop and I'm still trying to organize things
I used mostly heavy produce boxs and milk crates, HD (Home Depot) boxs are wimpy 
Hope all goes well with your move


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## DougD (Feb 21, 2017)

Well it sounds like you are lucky in that you have time.  As much as you can set up in the new shop (s) before you move in the better.  Believe me setting up a shop moving and stumbling over boxes and not placed machines is terrible!  On any boxes/crates I emphasize label label and detail label!!  Trust me before you are set up you will need something that you will search the boxes for.  That becomes a nightmare.
A lot of what has been said, I can strongly echo. It wouldn't hurt to let the moving company moving your house move the boxes "you pack" of the shop hardware and loose tools (those not in tool cabinet/boxes).  Hire guys to help move the machines and tool boxes/cabinets, but instruct and supervise. As Clueless NewB said, crank handles and pulleys should not be lifting handles.
If you do not own a pallet jack now would be the time to buy a used or new one. Bolt the machines to 4x4's and let the length of the 4x4's account for some of the off balance if needed. These also help to tie down during transport.
If you are renting a truck I strongly recommend renting one with a lift gate.
Anyway it looks like you've got some great input from many of us who have lived through the hassle you are about to have.  The bright side is you get to set up a new shop with the improvements you wished you had when you were in your old shop.   Good luck
Doug


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## Joncooey (Feb 21, 2017)

Might be a wise idea to remove your Hand Wheels, etc. before you move your machines.  They are the first to get broken in a move.


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## Bill Gruby (Feb 21, 2017)

If I were moving that much heavy equipment I would hire a Rigger. You won't have to touch anything, they will do it all.

 "Billy G"


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## dennys502 (Feb 22, 2017)

When transporting a vertical mill it is important to support the head. Bouncing up and down could cause the head to move up or down and possibly break off the teeth on the tilt.


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## Bill Gruby (Feb 22, 2017)

Just rotate the head 180 till the motor is on the bottom and bring the table up with a piece of wood on it  far enough to support the head in that position. support problem solved.

 'Billy G"


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## dennys502 (Feb 22, 2017)

I just bolt a 6 x 6 to the table and bring it up.


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## Bill Gruby (Feb 22, 2017)

Mills are top heavy. The turning of the head will also help to stabilize the load. It can be done either way.

 "Billy G"


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## geoffm (Feb 22, 2017)

When I inherited my father in laws workshop. I made Roll around gantry crane. It was made to be transported and assembled on site. Money well spent as it made everything so much easier. Harbour freight sell one.


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## Downunder Bob (Feb 22, 2017)

kevin said:


> In the next couple of months I will be selling my house and moving to a new home 150 miles away. Along with the usual misery of moving all my furniture, etc., I will also be moving the contents of my home shop - 3 lathes, a benchtop mill, workbenches, tooling, grinders, table saw, bandsaw, power tools, garage tools, lumber, raw metal stock, etc.
> 
> Some of the stuff is in my basement, so moving that stuff will be fun. At the new house, I'll be moving metal shop stuff into the basement (has a ground level walk in, so that will help), and wood shop stuff into the garage.
> 
> No doubt there are others out there who have gone through this before, so I'm asking: What lessons did you learn from relocating your shop? What worked well? What didn't work? Any and all advice welcomed.



I would start by bolting all the machines to suitable timber bearers, renting a shipping container and with a fork truck or pallet trolley, fit all the prepacked machines into the container, You can add extra timbers at this point to help stabilise the top heavy stuff. 

Hire a trucking company, or if you can drive a suitable truck yourself rent the truck, then move all the machines in one go, you can then unpack with a degree of leisure and take the time to set up each machine as you move them into their new locations, during this time the unpacked machines are safe in the container.

Depending on the sizes and quantity of your machines and the size of your container you should consider working out a floor plan of how they will all fit in the container. Check with your local machinery dealer they may have some hints and contacts that will help If you have some space left in the container, you might consider filling it up with some domestic  stuff like fridge, washing machine, freezer etc. Will save some money with the moving company.


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## brino (Feb 22, 2017)

geoffm said:


> I made Roll around gantry crane.



Got any pictures?
Thanks, brino.


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## Kevin J (Feb 22, 2017)

The biggest work in moving is packing and loading. You are in Michigan and going to move 150 miles. I would suggest moving ten times farther to a place where rust  is uncommon and frozen water doesn't fall out of the sky. Once your stuff is packed, the extra drive isn't too much to deal with. Sell your snow blower in Michigan or keep it and your new neighbors will marvel at such an odd device.


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## willthedancer (Feb 22, 2017)

I had a house fire a few years back. I hired a moving company that catered to pianos etc., and they were great. A couple of big Samoan guys. 

Piano movers are careful.

I worked in a medium sized job shop at a time where we moved. We contracted with a specialty machinery moving company. They were great with the HBMs and Planer etc, but a bit cavalier with the lathes. I watched them break the built in coolant pump off of a sweet Lodge and Shipley engine lathe. Sad...

Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk


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## kevin (Feb 22, 2017)

Guys - thanks for all the great comments! Lots of good ideas - I'm taking careful notes.


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## sanddan (Feb 25, 2017)

I might be moving in the next 5 years so will view this thread with much interest.


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## Hax0red (Feb 25, 2017)

Consider yourself lucky. I moved a 6,500lb VMC into a home I've been renting for almost 4 years now and had OK from landlord but not home owner and I am now being forced to move out when my lease ends next month. Worst part is I am on fixed income(was trying to remedy that with machine) due to being disabled. I haven't figured out how I'm going to pay for the move or where it's going.


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## woodchucker (Feb 25, 2017)

Lathes are top heavy too. if you can prep the lathe to be moved by the movers, create out riggers on the bottom. Attach 2x4 or 2x6 bolted securely to avoid tipping.  Also in case of tip, mount 2x4s or 2x6s to under the bed sticking out to protect the crossslide handles and gear handles. That way if it does tip, hopefully your solution protects it. Even if it breaks off for some reason, it will slow the fall, and perhaps save a full crash, and instead bend something, rather than breaking castings.


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 25, 2017)

I take my machines apart and move them in more manageable sized pieces by myself.
Here's a thread I did on moving heavy stuff by myself.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/moving-heavy-machines-by-yourself.53953/


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## dlane (Feb 26, 2017)

Moving vertical mill , rotate head 180 , put wood on table raise table to motor top with some pressure,
Block knee up with wood tight , saves elevation screw and nut.


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## mws (Feb 28, 2017)

On my first move I "lost" a lot of stuff. I learned that everything (toolboxes, toolchests,...) need to be locked or securely taped shut and all the boxes need to be numbered and inventoried.  And movers break things and shrug it off.  They have no clue what's a valuable piece of measurement equipment in a wooden box versus a toilet plunger, it's all just stuff to them.  "Shiny" things will distract them mightily.  

Aside from that. I rearranged my shop a few years after my last move and discovered that making a simple scale model of the shop was excellent in planning the new layout. Using paper rectangles allowing for major tool dimensions was surprisingly accurate.  Still have a problem with the space shrinking slowly. Every place I've lived seems to have that problem.


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## Bill Gruby (Feb 28, 2017)

dlane said:


> Moving vertical mill , rotate head 180 , put wood on table raise table to motor top with some pressure,
> Block knee up with wood tight , saves elevation screw and nut.




 There is nothing like a good echo. Please heed this one. Disaster strikes at any time. Vertical Mills ARE TOP HEAVY.

 "Billy G"


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## dlane (Feb 28, 2017)

Also , my roll around tool boxs were left full of tools " in the real heavy drawers I removed things to lighten them up some, and packed that stuff separately " and the whole roll around was shrinkwraped twice, saved a lot of packing and unpacking.
Two foot shrinkwrap is your friend when moving, keeps things together, protects surfaces, everything got shrinkwraped, machines ,carts full of stuff, big metal desk full of stuff, drill presses , grinders, benches with things still on them ,welders , O/A tank cart, evan the boxs got it.
again everything got shrinkwraped that stuff works.
When I hired the movers I told them to bring lots of extra rolls of shrinkwrap, I still have 3extra rolls
The movers were three guys loading , a tweeker and two from south of border, no English , just two came to unload the next day at new place.
I told the driver to go slow around the on and off ramps , I think he did , as every thing made it ok.                    Sorry for the dots


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## 4GSR (Feb 28, 2017)

Last time I moved my shop equipment, I had access to some nice shipping crates made of plywood with reinforced corners and edges.  They were mounted on 4x4 runners so it made it nice for a fork truck to pickup.  They had covers that were screwed in place with drywall screws. Size was roughly 4 foot square x about 30" deep.  Loaded up four of them with tools and stuff.  Your stuff was packed out of sight out of mind.  Loaded up quickly on the trailer with forklift along with the machinery and other equipment.  The few tool boxes I had I moved them myself.  

I'll be doing this again later this year.  Don't have access to the shipping crates used last time but to some that will do for the move.  I'll probably make crates to put my tool boxes in for my upcoming move. Ken


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## dlane (Feb 28, 2017)

Shrink wrap works good
 Put some 2x4 /plywood in between stuff that matters and wrap it tight x2


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## kevin (Jun 17, 2017)

I'm posting this as a follow up to my original question. I've completed the move I talked about (but still unpacking!), and I thought I would post a summary as to what worked and what didn't. Hopefully I will never have to move my shop again, but maybe this will help someone else. Since the whole thing is rather long (and because I want to be able to edit it later based on any additional suggestions), I have posted it to my website at the link below. I hope people will find this helpful both now and in the future, and I look forward to comments:

https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/miscellaneous-projects/my-workshop-s


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## dlane (Jun 17, 2017)

Yup I'm still finding house stuff in the shop and shop stuff in the house, guess movers couldn't read .


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## hman (Jun 17, 2017)

Many thanks to all of you!  Before the end of the year, my wife and I will be buying a new house (with shop space) in the phoenix area, then consolidating two households (including two machine shops), one of which is in Oregon.  And as fate would have it, of course, by far the larger shop is in Oregon.  Oh, joy!


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## dlane (Jun 17, 2017)

Well now the fun starts


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## scwhite (Jun 17, 2017)

bobshobby said:


> I would start by bolting all the machines to suitable timber bearers, renting a shipping container and with a fork truck or pallet trolley, fit all the prepacked machines into the container, You can add extra timbers at this point to help stabilise the top heavy stuff.
> 
> Hire a trucking company, or if you can drive a suitable truck yourself rent the truck, then move all the machines in one go, you can then unpack with a degree of leisure and take the time to set up each machine as you move them into their new locations, during this time the unpacked machines are safe in the container.
> 
> Depending on the sizes and quantity of your machines and the size of your container you should consider working out a floor plan of how they will all fit in the container. Check with your local machinery dealer they may have some hints and contacts that will help If you have some space left in the container, you might consider filling it up with some domestic  stuff like fridge, washing machine, freezer etc. Will save some money with the moving company.


I really like your ideas about the moving container .
  They are dry and strong .
       You can buy them cheap $3000. 
        And then if you have room on your property 
You now have a good storage building .


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## bollie7 (Jun 20, 2017)

Kevin. Thanks for doing the write up of your moving experience and sharing it with others. Very informative.
regards
peter


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## Downunder Bob (Jun 21, 2017)

bollie7 said:


> Kevin. Thanks for doing the write up of your moving experience and sharing it with others. Very informative.
> regards
> peter



Yes very useful information, I hope I never have to move my shop, but it will come in handy if the occasion ever arises.


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## hman (Jul 30, 2017)

Well, the time has come to move my (larger of 2) shop from Oregon to "somewhere" in the Phoenix area.  We'll buy a house with shop space after I've sold my Oregon house, then move my wife's house (and my smaller shop).

MANY, MANY thanks to all of you who've made suggestions about how to go about moving machine tools!!!!

I decided that, rather than depending on a crew of tweakers or off-the-street lowlifes to load heavy/fragile machines into a moving van, I'd rent a PODS container, load it myself, have it shipped to AZ, and stored until we have a new house.

Progress to date:  Disassembled my RF-30 mill and 12x24 lathe from their respective stands, etc.  Removed the motors to reduce weight.  Made a pair of 24 x 48 x 1 ½" (doubled ¾" ply) bases with attached 2x4 rails.  Lag screwed the machines to these.  Used an engine hoist to place them partially inside the PODS atop ¾" pipe rollers.  Rolled them inside, levered them up with the tongue of a 2-wheel dolly to remove the rollers.  Securely screwed both platforms to the floor.









I then upended the mill table (visible in the background of the first mill picture), added plywood plates on the open sides, and used the resulting "box" to hold a great bunch of rod and bar stock.  Being paranoid, I later unloaded the stock, added a sheet of plywood to reinforce the PODS floor, and reloaded it all (and then some).


Next day I loaded in my 14" wood cutting bandsaw and two roll-arounds.  Still need to load the lathe stand plus several boxes of lathe and mill parts.  I don't plan to load the PODS any higher than about halfway up.  No sense taking chances.


Note that the black (HF) cart is loaded with the drawer faces against the wall.  The gray one has handles on the drawers, so I loaded it facing out.  But it has provision for a lock bar running down the faces of the drawers, so no problem with opening.

By the way ... working slowly and carefully, I've been able to do all of this by myself, using just the engine hoist, the rollers, some hand tools, and a saw.  My wife did help when it came time to remove the rollers from under the platforms.  I wouldn't want to move a Bridgeport by myself, but now feel pretty confident about moving/manipulating medium-sized tools.

More fun to follow ...


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## Downunder Bob (Jul 30, 2017)

hman said:


> Well, the time has come to move my (larger of 2) shop from Oregon to "somewhere" in the Phoenix area.  We'll buy a house with shop space after I've sold my Oregon house, then move my wife's house (and my smaller shop).
> 
> MANY, MANY thanks to all of you who've made suggestions about how to go about moving machine tools!!!!
> 
> ...


Looks like you've got it pretty much under control. I dread the thought of having to move, and if our future plans hold good we wont ever have too. Still if it ever comes up , there is plenty of help and advice here.


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## coffmajt (Jul 30, 2017)

kevin said:


> Doug - Good questions, here is my plan so far:
> 
> I will hire a moving company to move the household stuff (furniture, etc.). I will probably hire some help to get the heavy stuff out of the basement; I may also have them move the stuff to the new location. I plan to move toolboxes and "loose tools" (which I will pack) myself, as well as tooling and accessories.
> 
> ...



I would recommend a Penske rental truck with a one ton lift gate plus a pallet Jack for your heavy machines. If you have a shop crane you can lift each one enough for get a pallet underneath, then moving is real easy providing you have hard surfaces to move over. Good luck. Jack


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## woodtickgreg (Jul 30, 2017)

You and I are a lot alike in the fact that we like to do things ourselves. I believe that if you want it done right do it yourself. I would not feel comfortable having people that know nothing about my machines moving them.


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## hman (Jul 30, 2017)

bobshobby said:


> Looks like you've got it pretty much under control. I dread the thought of having to move, and if our future plans hold good we wont ever have too. Still if it ever comes up , there is plenty of help and advice here.


+1 on the help and advise.  Thanks again to all!  And for you, best wishes toward not ever having to move.  Even if nothing is lost or damaged, it's sure to be a huge productivity disruption for at least several months.



coffmajt said:


> I would recommend a Penske rental truck with a one ton lift gate plus a pallet Jack for your heavy machines. If you have a shop crane you can lift each one enough for get a pallet underneath, then moving is real easy providing you have hard surfaces to move over. Good luck. Jack


I'd have liked doing that for my move to AZ, but I plan to be driving my pickumup truck, loaded with last-minute stuff, as well as the gas cylinders that movers consider a no-no.  I do plan to do this when moving my AZ shop across town!



woodtickgreg said:


> You and I are a lot alike in the fact that we like to do things ourselves. I believe that if you want it done right do it yourself. I would not feel comfortable having people that know nothing about my machines moving them.


I've seen entirely too many posts here about inexperienced movers!  That said, I still have a table saw and chop saw here - need to do some finish carpentry in the house before I sell.  But these are pretty light tools, and easy to move.


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## kevin (Jul 30, 2017)

Looks like you are the right track. What is the load limit on those PODS. If I were you, I would double up on those ratcheting straps - it's cheap insurance (think about the consequences if something gets loose and starts moving around).

One more suggestion: Stuff newspaper, plastic bags, or whatever you have on hand into your tool drawers to help keep things from shifting around. IF you don;t have some way to lock/fasten drawers closed, you can wrap plastic wrap around your tool boxes.

Please let us know how things worked out when you get to the other end of the move.


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## 4GSR (Jul 30, 2017)

I hope the plywood pads your machines are bolted to, are screwed down to the floor of the pod with lots of screws.  Your bandsaw doesn't look very secured.  All it takes is one time of the truck driver having to lock his brakes, and everything in the pod gets rearranged!


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## hman (Jul 30, 2017)

kevin said:


> Looks like you are the right track. What is the load limit on those PODS. If I were you, I would double up on those ratcheting straps - it's cheap insurance (think about the consequences if something gets loose and starts moving around).


PODS says the weight capacity of the 7' unit I got is 5200 lbs.  Estimating 500-800 lbs for the mill, the same for the lathe, maybe 500 lbs of steel stock, <200 lbs for the band saw, and a WAG of <300 lbs for miscellaneous crap, that comes out to a worst case total of 2600 lbs, well under their max capacity limit.  I've doubled up on several of the straps, and I’ve given thought to where things might shift to if cast adrift. 

I’d covered much of my garage floor with those 2’ square jigsaw-interlocking ½" foam panels.  Took them all up before moving the tools, and they’re now being used as cushioning/padding between the items in the box - again, just in case something moves unexpectedly.  I'd also used ¾" plywood panels at the mill and lathe to hold setup tools.  These have been placed between the machines and the outer walls.



kevin said:


> One more suggestion: Stuff newspaper, plastic bags, or whatever you have on hand into your tool drawers to help keep things from shifting around. IF you don;t have some way to lock/fasten drawers closed, you can wrap plastic wrap around your tool boxes.
> 
> Please let us know how things worked out when you get to the other end of the move.


Drawer contents are indeed padded, and (thanks to dlane's earlier post) I'd bought some stretch wrap.  Made use of it in several places (mainly around tool boxes).  As I'd mentioned previously, one of the roll-arounds is faced to the wall, so the drawers can't open.  The other has a stop bar across the drawer fronts.

I finished loading the box last night.  Today I'll take a bunch more "cya" photos, verify the contents inventory, etc.  Tomorrow I'll call the PODS people and send it on its way.  It'll be in storage (hopefully in dry AZ) for a couple of months - we have yet to buy a new house there.  If anything "interesting" happens between now and then, I'll be sure to post.


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## hman (Jul 31, 2017)

4gsr said:


> I hope the plywood pads your machines are bolted to, are screwed down to the floor of the pod with lots of screws.


Used about 9 to 12 high quality #10 screws for each.


4gsr said:


> Your bandsaw doesn't look very secured.  All it takes is one time of the truck driver having to lock his brakes, and everything in the pod gets rearranged!


Used two separate lengths of nylon "ribbon" (parachute ribbon?).  Plus, the other contents are packed in pretty solidly and will prevent it from moving very far.  Admittedly, the upper section is not secured.  But as nearly all the weight (ie, the motor) is in the base, I doubt the saw will be able to fall over.

I've used some pretty good (nearly new) straps and lots of that nylon ribbon rope.  My only concern right now id the possibility of pulling the screw eyes out of the 2x4 framing inside the box.  But I drilled undersized pilot holes into very sound looking wood and screwed them in pretty far.  I have high hopes I did it right.

PS - Thanks for your concern!  All comments are indeed welcome.

Another PS - I gave the lathe ways and mill table a good spraying with Fluid Film to prevent surface rust (just in case the PODS people store the box in Oregon instead of in AZ).


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## 4GSR (Jul 31, 2017)

You need a bunch of those VCI duce bags they pack with CNC machines that come from Japan to hang in your pod.  I think I still have a dozen of them stashed in every cabinet in the shop.  They never go bad.  They dry out during the dry seasons and do their job during the wet seasons.


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## dlane (Jul 31, 2017)

Hopefully they don't mind holes in the framework of the pod.


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## hman (Aug 1, 2017)

I asked the delivery driver about fastenings.  He told me it would be OK to add screw eyes to the internal 2x4 and 4x4 vertical frames.  There were already some screw eyes in there.  I didn't put any holes in the walls.  The only holes I didn't get specific authorization for are the holes I made when I screwed the platforms to the floor of the box.  Maybe they won't notice them  

PS to Ken - The box will be picked up Tuesday (8/1).  The PODS people told me that it would be dispatched to the Mesa, AZ warehouse on 8/2 and arrive about a week later.  Don't know if the Mesa storage will be indoors or out, but I hope the box will miss the occasional "monsoon" rain storm.  Dessicant packs are indeed a great idea nonetheless.  Wish I'd had time to get some.  Ah, well...


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## dlane (Aug 1, 2017)

When I rented a Ryder truck in AR headed to cali I put holes in the wood side braces to build a second floor in the truck , wood dough worked good for the holes


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## GoceKU (Aug 1, 2017)

I used Tow truck, flatbed to move my 3 ton lathe city to city and i was very impressed by his professionalism, the tow truck driver instructed the forklift operator what to do how to do it, how to load him, then he removed all loose doors and tie down the lathe with many chains and straps and wrap his winch cable around it, the person was on his game, a true pro, unloading it was much more difficult, my street it tight and steep, i hire and 3 tone forklift that did not have enough power to lift and move the lathe, after couple of tries the operators managed to lift the lathe little of the flat bed, the tow truck driver drove from under the lathe and attach his tow cable to the back of the forklift, half way in my driveway the forklift started tipping and if the tow cable wasn't there i would have an mess on my hands.


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## hman (Aug 1, 2017)

Very scary process!  Glad to hear it turned out well.


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## hman (Aug 2, 2017)

OK, folks.  It's not my machine or anything I built, but just for fun and giggles, here's a series of photos that show the "Podzilla" PODS loader in action.  It's a separate self-powered unit that's carried on the truck to do one thing - unload and load the PODS units.  I forgot to take pictures when my box was delivered, but decided to take a few today, when the box was picked up.  Enjoy!

Back truck up to box


Start gas motor (hydraulic pump) on Podzilla


Raise the frame by extending the wheeled legs, widen the frame to clear, drive it "over" the box


Lower the frame by raising the legs, so the lift chains can be attached to the box


Attach chains, start to lift the box


Lift it high enough to allow the truck to back under it


Back the truck up underneath the box


Lower the box onto the truck, lift the wheels the rest of the way up


Release the box from Podzilla, tie it down to the truck bed


All tied down and ready to go!


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## Ken from ontario (Aug 2, 2017)

Wow, what a great system , no need for a fork lift, all done with chains and a hydraulic pump.
Thanks for the pics.


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## brino (Aug 2, 2017)

Hi John,
The first picture looked a little tight with the trees, but I guess they drop it there the same way.
So if they're able to place it, they are able to load it. Neat system
Thanks for posting!
-brino


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## hman (Aug 3, 2017)

I do have quite a few trees around the house.  It's hard to see in the photos, but the concrete apron in front of the garage (shop) is about 20 ft wide (2 car garage width) and approximately as long, with a nearly straight shot down the rest of the driveway.

PODS specifies 12 foot clearance all around the box for the landing zone.  But even at its widest, the Podzilla was only about 10 feet total width (1 ½ feet or so to either side of the 7 foot wide box).  Maybe a bit more needed to steer it into place.  Anyway, as you said, if they can land it, they can pick it up.  It was definitely a lot of fun to watch!


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## 4GSR (Aug 3, 2017)

If you don't mind me asking, what is the cost to rent the containers? Is the rental weekly, monthly?  And do they charge by the mile for transporting from point A to point B?  Do they have larger containers available to rent, too?

Yeah, I know, I could go the their website and look, too.


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## RandyM (Aug 3, 2017)

4gsr said:


> If you don't mind me asking, what is the cost to rent the containers? Is the rental weekly, monthly?  And do they charge by the mile for transporting from point A to point B?  Do they have larger containers available to rent, too?
> 
> Yeah, I know, *I could go the their website* and look, too.



I'll help ya Ken.

https://www.pods.com/


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## hman (Aug 3, 2017)

4gsr said:


> If you don't mind me asking, what is the cost to rent the containers? Is the rental weekly, monthly?  And do they charge by the mile for transporting from point A to point B?  Do they have larger containers available to rent, too?
> 
> Yeah, I know, I could go the their website and look, too.


PODS has 7x7 foot, 8x12 foot and 8x16 foot containers, all 8' tall.  The 12 footer is not available for long distance moves.

Down payment was $567, broken down into $317 delivery fee (might be based on mileage), $140 first month's rent, and $100 first month's insurance.  Transportation to the Mesa warehouse will be $1485 (mileage only, as far as I can tell).  Monthly storage will be $140 plus $50 insurance.  Delivery in the Phoenix area will be $168.  Taxes not included.  Insurance coverage is $10K, but does not cover damage due to shifting contents (obviously my responsibility to load and secure stuff).  Weight limits are hard to find on the website, but I saw somewhere that it's 4400 lbs. for any size box.


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## 4GSR (Aug 3, 2017)

Yeah, the weight limit is a deal breaker.  I could put my whole shop into a 8 x 16 foot container.  But the weight would be somewhere north of 15,000 lbs. I may look into it when I get ready to make the move.  It would be a intrastate move and under 400 miles.  Pricing is not that bad for your move, provided what you take in account if you had to move the equipment on your own and get it there safely and pay for storage on the receiving end in a "store it as your own risk" facility.  Thanks for the info.  Ken


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