# Another 9" Barn Find



## rodm717 (Nov 20, 2021)

Just picked this up and doing initial assessment. This one has sat and somewhat comparable to the 1928 I have done previously.
First thing I do is spray everything down liberally with PB Blaster to start working the rust and loosening anything that may be stuck.
By the serial, it would appear to be a 1941 or 1942. The floor mount motor and jackshaft assembly is rare. Right now the headstock, tailstock, backgear, ect. is not freely moving. Nor is the compound. I do have the gear cover as well.
I will be breaking down, cleaning, and rebuilding everything that is required. New felt and cord is needed throughout. Have not decided if i will blast and paint.


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## benmychree (Nov 20, 2021)

Pretty ugly!


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## rodm717 (Nov 20, 2021)

Lol. For now. I also didnt mention it has the original legs that alone go for more than what i paid.


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## rodm717 (Nov 20, 2021)

For now. I would refer you to the 1928 i did. This is after the derusting and cleaning. Granted the paint was a lot more intact.


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## matthewsx (Nov 20, 2021)

Looks like a worthy project....

John


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## brino (Nov 20, 2021)

It does look like lots of work......but apparently you've done it before!

Would love to follow your progress here.

-brino


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## Nogoingback (Nov 20, 2021)

rodm717 said:


> Lol. For now. I also didnt mention it has the original legs that alone go for more than what i paid.


The taper attachment is probably worth something as well.


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## benmychree (Nov 20, 2021)

Yes, there is definitely value there, what did you have to pay?


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## mattthemuppet2 (Nov 20, 2021)

Very cool, that'll keep you busy for a bit  I have a 1928 wide 9 just like that and love it to bits. It'll be pretty neat to have both, especially with that taper attachment


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## rodm717 (Nov 20, 2021)

Thanks guys. Unfortunately I let the 1928 go to pay it forward and fund other projects. I do still have my first Southbend, a 1936 Workshop C in great shape I use often among others.
I paid the same as the 1928, albeit 4 years later, $400.
I'd rather buy a project and enjoy the rebuild than paying a couple $k for a machine someone else did.


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## benmychree (Nov 20, 2021)

I have a bunch of old literature on SB and have never seen any reference to a "wide 9"; explain please.  $400, makes me appreciate the deal I got on my Monarch Jr. 9" lathe, with tooling, on floor legs for $250 (the asking price), it was a little rusty but cleaned up perfectly, nothing on it showed any wear except for the half nut and one broken gear tooth on the cone pulley for back gear, it even had its original overhead countershaft.  I made new cast iron steady and follow rests and faceplate and dog plate for it


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## lordbeezer (Nov 20, 2021)

Electrolysis bath will remove the rust. Works great for me.


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## rodm717 (Nov 20, 2021)

Wide 9 refers to the earlier beds/ways being slightly wider or further apart than the lathes after 1930 or so. It's not in the literature. Just a term that has been used.
Just like "A". Although it had the same functionality as later "A" models, gearbox, geared lateral and cross feed, Southbend didn't use that terminology at that time either.  There is not a lot of literature on Southbends prior to the 30's
Workshop models. Luckily when i initially posted about that lathe,  another forum member sent me some literature they had.
Sounds like you lucked out. Although we are in the Southbend forum, not Monarch



@lordbeezer  I have seen and read about it, but have not tried it. I usually use stainless steel wool or fine scotch bright. Which admittedly takes a lot more work and can't possibly reach some places the electrolysis does.
I really don't like the idea of removing and trying to reseat the headstock correctly. I haven't done it and may be making more about than it is though.


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## RandyWilson (Nov 21, 2021)

Many of us use the "New Posts" function. This allows us to read every new post made, without regard to the specific subforum. This sometimes leads to a bit of miscommunication when information is left out of a post because it is defined by the subforum. I suspect the OP thinks John purposely left the Monarch sub-group and wandered into the South Bend sub-group to troll. That is not the case.


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## woodchucker (Nov 21, 2021)

rodm717 said:


> Wide 9 refers to the earlier beds/ways being slightly wider or further apart than the lathes after 1930 or so. It's not in the literature. Just a term that has been used.
> Just like "A". Although it had the same functionality as later "A" models, gearbox, geared lateral and cross feed, Southbend didn't use that terminology at that time either.  There is not a lot of literature on Southbends prior to the 30's
> Workshop models. Luckily when i initially posted about that lathe,  another forum member sent me some literature they had.
> Sounds like you lucked out. Although we are in the Southbend forum, not Monarch
> ...


you need to remove the headstock, it's not an option. it's easy to remove on the SB lathes.
the Headstock rides on a V way. There are 2 bolts underneath and that's it.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Nov 21, 2021)

Yes, the pre-1930 SB 9 and 10 inch lathes used the same bed, carriage and apron, but with different headstocks, tailstocks and probably cross slide/ compound. That makes the 1928 9" lathe bed about an inch wider than the  9" workshop lathes that came out just after.

I thought the comment about buying a monarch in better condition for less money came across as a bit snarky and unnecessary too. Maybe not intended that way, but you have to be careful how you express something online as it can easily be misinterpreted.


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## Crazy Cat (Nov 21, 2021)

Congratulations on your find! It will definitely keep you busy for a while, and learning, theres nothing better than bringing an old machine back to life. I am certain that they have souls.


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## rodm717 (Nov 21, 2021)

If I misinterpreted his comments, I apologize. It is hard to read intent on forums
I never said the lathe was a diamond in rough or some fantastic deal. But, around here these just aren't found like they used to be. I would rather resurrect something than part it. Its about the utility and usefulness of the machine to me.


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## woodchucker (Nov 21, 2021)

These guys here for the most part are pretty nice.
But lets face it, we all make mistakes, either in writing or in reading.

I have many times not liked what I wrote  the first time. I intended on saying one thing, but when I read it even I went... NOOOOO that's not how I meant it.  Especially when trying to be expedient in replying, or lazy.   If someone is gunning you'll know it. Otherwise assume it was not intentional...


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## Dabbler (Nov 21, 2021)

very  nice barn find!  Please post pictures of your progress - many members are afraid to buy a rusty lathe, and don't know what potential lies underneath the surface.

M<y friend bought a Clausinmg 2500 Tool and Die lathe that was out in the rain for over 2 years.  After a large rebuild he has a spectacular lathe!


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## Dabbler (Nov 21, 2021)

I should add for those following this thread.  Things were said.  Inappropriate things, both in attack and defense.  All of the comments were inappropriate - and were deleted.  Please, guys, if someone says anything inflammatory or disparaging -report the comment and the mods will fix it.  It's *our* job.


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## rodm717 (Nov 23, 2021)

I made a little progress while boring some sprockets for work and allowing tools to cool.
I've primarily used 0000 steel wool quite a bit until something demands a slightly aggressive treatment, in the past, and will be doing the same here. Usually fine 3m scotchright and a brass wire wheel on a die grinder or drill.  After soaking everything in PB Blaster and a bit of arm grease, seems promising. Still alot more work.
Loosened the headstock bolts a bit and a couple careful taps with a rubber mallet, the spindle is free and I was able to confirm movement in the gear train with gearbox and lead screw. While carefully spinning slowly by hand, I topped off oil in headstock oil gits and sprayed some more penetrant on all moving contact points. Everything is free, except the compound from cosslide and tailstock. Compound moves, but haven't separated it from cross yet. Note that I did tighten headstock bolts as soon as the spindle let loose to minimize any contaminants  scoring the spindle and bearing races.
 I will be pulling spindle and replacing the spring oilers and cleaning spindle and bearing races. Hopefully this holiday weekend.


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## woodchucker (Nov 23, 2021)

what size chuck is that? looks big in the last set of pics.


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## woodchucker (Nov 23, 2021)

BTW lookup SWELLS on ebay, he sells a rebuild kit. contains all the felts and a rebuild book (very good)  .


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## rodm717 (Nov 23, 2021)

woodchucker said:


> what size chuck is that? looks big in the last set of pics.


Not sure. It reminds me a big Emco style chuck. Lol.





woodchucker said:


> BTW lookup SWELLS on ebay, he sells a rebuild kit. contains all the felts and a rebuild book (very good)  .


Yep, already ordered a kit and have two different rebuild books on this. A solid recommendation .


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## extropic (Nov 23, 2021)

@rodm717 

That's a pretty nice barn find nd the parts seem to e cleaning up pretty well.

I haven't followed and of your previous threads but, after seeing this one, I'm convinced you're going to return the lathe to good working order.

I have to say that your instance on the manual (steel wool & Scotchbrite) rust removal could be considered masochistic rather than therapeutic. LOL
To each his own.


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## rodm717 (Nov 23, 2021)

extropic said:


> @rodm717
> 
> That's a pretty nice barn find nd the parts seem to e cleaning up pretty well.
> 
> ...


I know, can't please everyone. Question is to the lathe or me. Lol. 
Keep in mind there are at least 5-6 varying degrees of abrasion with scotchbright across multiple manufacturers. If it extends above the base material, it needs removed. 
  I'll also utilize evaporust, but sometimes you need to get a little aggressive. Just depends on your idea and degree of aggressive. Same as tolerance goes.. 001" vs. .0001" or finer. I'm not even going to touch RA.


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## extropic (Nov 23, 2021)

rodm717 said:


> I know, can't please everyone. Question is to the lathe or me. Lol.
> Keep in mind there are at least 5-6 varying degrees of abrasion with scotchbright across multiple manufacturers. If it extends above the base material, it needs removed.
> I'll also utilize evaporust, but sometimes you need to get a little aggressive. Just depends on your idea and degree of aggressive. Same as tolerance goes.. 001" vs. .0001" or finer. I'm not even going to touch RA.



I was referring to the amount of work (damage to you) involved. just to think about it makes my hands feel like cramping.

A definition of masochistic is "(in general use) enjoying an activity that appears to be painful or tedious".


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## rodm717 (Nov 24, 2021)

I received the felt and oil spring kit today from Ilion Industrial Services. Ebay.
I'll also need to purchase a new belt once I figure out if I am able and willing to install original jackshaft. It would be pretty cool though. As I have not seen one installed with an original floor mount.
Hoping to make some more progress over the holiday.
Hope everyone has a wonderful Thanksgiving!


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## CRSinTN (Jan 3, 2022)

That taper attachment would have made that a deal for me. Great find, and it looks like you're doing a great job!


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