# My Logan 820 Lathe Journey



## wachuko

I might be jinxing myself... but could not wait to share...

So I always wanted a vintage looking small lathe, those that have read my threads are probably tired of reading this from me time and time again... but everything I would find would be snatched before I could even see it or asking price was way more than I could pay...

Initially I was looking for an Atlas lathe as that was all I knew, besides the South Bend lathes, that had the look I wanted... but back in December 2021, when I was looking at used larger lathes, I ran into a Logan lathe with turret setup (Feedback on buying Logan 7500 lathe)... that got me to join the Yahoo group where the owner of Logan (Scott Logan) is active and learn more about them.  A turret lathe was not something I wanted so I let that go and ended up with the Grizzly G0709 that I have now...but the bug for one of these old lathes never went away.

Then, a few months back, I ran into a few threads on small Logan lathes (200 and 820s) ... man, those threads screwed me up badly... so the search was back on...  And I know I said I was done looking and that I would keep the HF 9x20... but who the heck I was kidding!  Saw this one a couple of hours away from me and reached out to the owner...

Anywho... photos.  I plan to pick it up Sunday...  I tried to go today, but it is a busy day at work... I think that this thing weights around 5-600lbs... so I need to take someone with me to help me load it... I still have not ruled out trying to get it today...

Logan Metal Lathe, Model 820, Swing Over Bed 10½", Swing Cross Slide 7", Distance Between Centers 24










Serial number dates the lathe at around 1945...




Current owner


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## C-Bag

I too have that curious(to me) attraction to Logan's. They don't come up as often as SB's or Atlas. I have a weakness for Emco's too. 

Your Logan certainly tick all the boxes for me. Looks like it just needs a cleaning. How's the wear?


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## wachuko

C-Bag said:


> I too have that curious(to me) attraction to Logan's. They don't come up as often as SB's or Atlas. I have a weakness for Emco's too.
> 
> Your Logan certainly tick all the boxes for me. Looks like it just needs a cleaning. How's the wear?


I will let you know in about 5 hours... heading out to pick it up.


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## wachuko

Well… it is mine… Photo with previous owner, John Irvin.  He bought the lathe 25 years ago as a retirement gift for himself.  

He worked at the St. Pete Times for about 32 years.  Started as a plant engineer and retired as Operation Director.






Took as much apart as we could manage and loaded to the trailer… off we went from St. Petersburg to Orlando…


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## wachuko

But first… a quick stop at Ybor City to eat something…




Lucky to be able to get my cousin to come along to help load and unload it...




Fuel stop and off we go again… I miss my truck… had to use my son’s car for pulling the trailer…


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## wachuko

It was 1:30am by the time we were done unloading, returning the trailer, etc.

A few photos... I hope I can remember how to put this all back together... there is a lot to clean... 

He got a new belt back in 2020






I guess now I do not have to make a stop...lol...



I forgot to ask about the reason for the yellow paint on the chuck...  


Yeah, lots and lots of cleaning needed...





Face plate, belt cover is underneath... not sure what that rectangle piece is... 


Like I said... took it apart to make it easier to load...







Motor support






All gears look to be in excellent shape...




More stuff... tool  post, cutters, keys...







That is all for now... heading to Ocala... working on this lathe will have to wait... I just wanted to get it home ASAP!


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## wachuko

True story...




I guess, once this one is done... I should consider selling the HF 9"x20"...  The Delta wood lathe, I should sell it as well if I do not develop a thing for working with wood... but it just looks like art...


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## C-Bag

We have very different approaches. I have a total aversion to taking stuff apart in the field. I would have taken my folding engine hoist and separated the table from lathe and put it on the floor of the trailer, then the table, then the hoist in the trailer. I’m a use it and if it ain’t broke maybe I’ll clean it, maybe I’ll just use it as is kinda guy. Lazy I guess.


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## wachuko

C-Bag said:


> We have very different approaches. I have a total aversion to taking stuff apart in the field. I would have taken my folding engine hoist and separated the table from lathe and put it on the floor of the trailer, then the table, then the hoist in the trailer. I’m a use it and if it ain’t broke maybe I’ll clean it, maybe I’ll just use it as is kinda guy. Lazy I guess.


I don't think it is laziness on your part... like you said, different approaches...

I enjoy the process of cleaning it and making it look a bit better... part of my enjoyment and helps me getting to know the internals of the lathe better…


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## rabler

Three lathes is the perfect number.  Because sometimes you need a lathe to fix a lathe.  And a spare.


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## Aukai

I saw the steady rest, but here is another one.








						Logan Lathe Steady Rest With Bearings - $150 (Northern Nevada)
					

https://reno.craigslist.org/tls/d/reno-logan-lathe-steady-rest-with/7509382285.html




					www.hobby-machinist.com


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## C-Bag

I thought putting bearings on the fingers was a bad idea?


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## Aukai

I thought I saw that somewhere too, but don't remember why.


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## wachuko

Okay... spent time today putting most of it together... easy peasy...




Found the serial number... which places the lathe at around 1945...


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## wachuko

More photos...

























I bought the owners manual but can’t seem to be able to download, email sent to Logan…

The leather belt is fairly new (I have the receipt from 2020). 

Motor is not original…or at least the pulley is not... as it is running with a v-pulley on the motor and flat on the top... 




Also, it runs only in one direction…does not matter if the switch is in forward or reverse…
















So a lot of cleaning and sorting out the wiring…


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## wachuko

6" 3-jaw chuck, 8" 4-jaw, 6" face plate


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## Aaron_W

I think you will be happy with your new lathe. There is some spirited debate on whether a Logan is better than a South Bend, but they are certainly a step above Atlas. 

Scott Logan is an amazing resource for these lathes and from my understanding the main reason there is still support is simply because they have the Logan family name on them. All the real money came from some widget invented for elevators. 

Not cheap but you can still get almost any part needed to keep a Logan running from Logan actuator which is not often the case for very vintage machines.


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## wachuko

Well... goes to show you that I know nothing about these lathes... Double pulley is there and it is the correct setup... v-belt pulley in the bottom and the top pulley is flat.  I just found it weird that the top pulley was not a v-pulley as well...


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## wachuko

Aaron_W said:


> I think you will be happy with your new lathe. There is some spirited debate on whether a Logan is better than a South Bend, but they are certainly a step above Atlas.
> 
> Scott Logan is an amazing resource for these lathes and from my understanding the main reason there is still support is simply because they have the Logan family name on them. All the real money came from some widget invented for elevators.
> 
> Not cheap but you can still get almost any part needed to keep a Logan running from Logan actuator which is not often the case for very vintage machines.


@Aaron_W you have no idea how excited I am to have been able to find this lathe... specially for the price.  I am really looking forward to using it.  But first I need to make it look good first.  I am shallow like that, so  

I have been reading threads in the yahoo groups... and watching videos, and looking at the parts diagram, and going over the lathe with the diagrams to check what is what...

I did had an exchange with Scott Logan when I was looking at that turret lathe (I did not know at the time what that was...)...

I want to make sure that I inspect everything to determine if anything needs replacing so that I can get the parts as soon as possible...

Looks like, so far, all I need to do is wire the lathe properly... that is it.  Maybe, as I take it apart to clean, recondition and paint, I might find something needing attention...

Anyway, I just finished installing the belt cover, hinges, lever, etc.  Belt tensioning working fine.

Wiring next to get it running again... it was partially hardwired at the previous owner's garage... so we had to cut the wiring to get it out.  I want to have it with normal plug so it can be easily disconnected.  At some point I need to move it to Ocala.


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## Steve-F

Love those table legs!! Congratulations!


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## Jim F

wachuko said:


> Well... goes to show you that I know nothing about these lathes... Double pulley is there and it is the correct setup... v-belt pulley in the bottom and the top pulley is flat.  I just found it weird that the top pulley was not a v-pulley as well...
> 
> View attachment 414179


That is the way SB did it.


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## Just for fun

Congratulations Jaime,  Looks like a cool lathe!


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## wachuko

Steve-F said:


> Love those table legs!! Congratulations!





Just for fun said:


> Congratulations Jaime,  Looks like a cool lathe!



Thank you!

Now to decide what color to paint it... I like the color I used for the Walker-Turner tools... might go with that since I got a case of paint left... 







And still trying to figure out what this part is... might be from something else, but it has the same color as the lathe...


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## CluelessNewB

I like that color you used on the WT900.

The mystery part may be part of the cross slide from a Logan 830 Hand Screw Machine:


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## deakin

wachuko said:


> The Delta wood lathe, I should sell it as well if I do not develop a thing for working with wood... but it just looks like art...


my brother has a 4k ft wood shop. his wood lathe has been sitting in a corner for many years - unused


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## wachuko

deakin said:


> my brother has a 4k ft wood shop. his wood lathe has been sitting in a corner for many years - unused


I talked it over with my wife... I thought she was going to have a fit when I arrived home with another lathe (two in less than a week)... but I told her that I was done... finally found what I was looking for with this Logan.  No more buying lathes, mills, etc.

To my surprise, she was fine... told me that she did not wanted me to get rid of stuff that gave me joy... I even mentioned the possibility of selling the wood lathe after it was done and her response was "but how are you going to make me the bowls that that I want?"  So I guess the wood lathe is staying... 

No pressure even in getting rid of the 9x20 lathe...   so I was stressing for nothing...  Life is good...


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## wachuko

Since I will take it apart to clean and paint... figured I would refresh a few things... like replacing both headstock bearings... I was not prepared for what one of these costs... yikes.  Several threads in the subject, so not planning to make another one... I will reference just one:









						Replacement For Logan Headstock Double Row Bearing
					

After weeks of research and a dozen conversations with bearing manufacturers I came up to a brick wall on finding a "correct" bearing for the Logan Lathes.  There are several bearings that will in fact fit dimension wise, however the key design parameter is the fact that the original bearings...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




I was able to buy a new 77507 New Departure single row ball bearing (Part number 0670) for 25.00 shipped, but the other one, a double bearing (Part number 0671), is quite expensive at US$318.00








__





						Ball Bearing
					





					store.lathe.com
				







So does not look like I will be replacing that one... if it ever fails then I will fork over the money to Scott for a replacement...

Chuck is pretty stuck... ordered a strap wrench to try and free it...





I will also need a QCTP for it... wondering if I should stick with they style I have in the other lathes or give a  Multifix Quick Change Tool Post a try...


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## Aaron_W

wachuko said:


> Well... goes to show you that I know nothing about these lathes... Double pulley is there and it is the correct setup... v-belt pulley in the bottom and the top pulley is flat.  I just found it weird that the top pulley was not a v-pulley as well...
> 
> View attachment 414179



I bought a South Bend 9" pulley set up to use with my 8-1/2" Rivett which uses flat belts. I thought I was going to have to convert the motor to flat belt when I found out SB did the same v- belt to flat belt set up saving me some hassle.



wachuko said:


> I talked it over with my wife... I thought she was going to have a fit when I arrived home with another lathe (two in less than a week)... but I told her that I was done... finally found what I was looking for with this Logan.  No more buying lathes, mills, etc.
> 
> To my surprise, she was fine... told me that she did not wanted me to get rid of stuff that gave me joy... I even mentioned the possibility of selling the wood lathe after it was done and her response was "but how are you going to make me the bowls that that I want?"  So I guess the wood lathe is staying...
> 
> No pressure even in getting rid of the 9x20 lathe...   so I was stressing for nothing...  Life is good...



My wife is the same. She did veto setting up the Rivett lathe in the living room (it is a very classy looking lathe), but as long as it stays in the basement she doesn't care what I get as long as I'm happy.


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## T. J.

That bluish color on your drill press appears to be pretty close to the original Logan color. Looks sharp!

Your mystery part appears to be a cross slide. I’m not sure it’s for the Logan though. I’ve not seen that T slot configuration before. The Logan “production” cross slides that I’m familiar with have the T slots like on the illustration in CluelessNewB’s post above. They would either be lever actuated, as in the illustration, or have a nut for use with the standard cross slide screw.


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## wachuko

I have a questions for those familiar with this lathe... This is what my apron looks like... Look at the clutch knob... it looks like nothing that I have seen in the videos or manual... ????


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## wachuko

T. J. said:


> That bluish color on your drill press appears to be pretty close to the original Logan color. Looks sharp!
> 
> Your mystery part appears to be a cross slide. I’m not sure it’s for the Logan though. I’ve not seen that T slot configuration before. The Logan “production” cross slides that I’m familiar with have the T slots like on the illustration in CluelessNewB’s post above. They would either be lever actuated, as in the illustration, or have a nut for use with the standard cross slide screw.


Thank you.

I will post it on the Logan Yahoo group to see if I get confirmation... will report back.

It does have a nut... I will take better photos and measure it to add to the description...


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## phubbman

Nice catch.  Last fall I brought home a ‘47 model of the Montgomery Ward badged Logan 10” lathe (similar, but simpler than yours).  Like you I was super excited to get it home, taken apart, cleaned up, lubed, adjusted, and in use.  It was a big improvement over my previous Atlas 6” machine.

about the flat belt and flat jack shaft pulley for the v-belt - most likely done to provide some slip in the event of a crash or too aggressive cutting on a smallish machine.  It won’t plow through like a big heavy gear head lathe, but I’ve never had any problems with it slipping while machining any projects.

about the quick change tool post, if you go with the common Aloris style, AXA is the size you will want.  I prefer the wedge type over the piston type.  The cheapest knock offs are hit and miss when it comes to fit and finish.  I picked up a Shars (Asian, but decent quality) and have been very happy with it.  It’s accurately made with good finish and smooth action.  I recommend getting 8 or 10 101 tool holders and a couple of the 102 holders, along with the parting tool holder and the boring bar holder.  When buying the holders themselves, generic brands fit and work just fine.  If you want to do any knurling, I recommend a scissors type or something similar in order to minimize the lateral pressure wear on the lathe’s brass compound and carriage cross slide nuts.  

Have fun with it.  Looking forward to your progress.  
paulh


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## wachuko

wachuko said:


> I have a questions for those familiar with this lathe... This is what my apron looks like... Look at the clutch knob... it looks like nothing that I have seen in the videos or manual... ????
> 
> View attachment 414252


Got a response on this from Scott Logan via the Yahoo group... that is an aftermarket part... not something Logan provided.  And most parts to restoring it to looking original, are not available from Logan...  Correction: These parts are available, just not on the website… a call to Logan is needed to place an order…



> Re: Logan 820 - Clutch knob is different​
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scott Logan
> 12:31pm #43079
> That is not a Logan clutch lever.
> 
> In the past, other manufacturers made accessories for various lathes, including Logan lathes. This is one such instance.
> 
> It **SHOULD** operate by lifting the lever to engage the clutch. Of course, the selector lever above it must be in the down position (for Z axis feed) or in the up position (for x axis feed). The selector lever is placed in the middle position, as shown, for threading using the half nuts.



Was able to get a complete clutch assembly from Ebay...  If I ever want to get it back to looking stock.




The only thing I will need to source are the two small springs... seller calls out that these would need to be replaced...


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## wachuko

phubbman said:


> Nice catch.  Last fall I brought home a ‘47 model of the Montgomery Ward badged Logan 10” lathe (similar, but simpler than yours).  Like you I was super excited to get it home, taken apart, cleaned up, lubed, adjusted, and in use.  It was a big improvement over my previous Atlas 6” machine.
> 
> about the flat belt and flat jack shaft pulley for the v-belt - most likely done to provide some slip in the event of a crash or too aggressive cutting on a smallish machine.  It won’t plow through like a big heavy gear head lathe, but I’ve never had any problems with it slipping while machining any projects.
> 
> about the quick change tool post, if you go with the common Aloris style, AXA is the size you will want.  I prefer the wedge type over the piston type.  The cheapest knock offs are hit and miss when it comes to fit and finish.  I picked up a Shars (Asian, but decent quality) and have been very happy with it.  It’s accurately made with good finish and smooth action.  I recommend getting 8 or 10 101 tool holders and a couple of the 102 holders, along with the parting tool holder and the boring bar holder.  When buying the holders themselves, generic brands fit and work just fine.  If you want to do any knurling, I recommend a scissors type or something similar in order to minimize the lateral pressure wear on the lathe’s brass compound and carriage cross slide nuts.
> 
> Have fun with it.  Looking forward to your progress.
> paulh



Thanks Paulh.   I should stick with the Aloris styled QCTP... that is what I have on the other lathes...  I have an AXA on the 9"x20" .  It just that the Multifix Quick Change Tool Post look so cool... but yeah... most likely will end up with the same setup that I have in the 9x20


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## wachuko

Ordered a few parts from Logan Actuator Company store...

LP-1692 - Carriage Parts: Felt Wiper Set  - 1
Q22-00634 - Headstock: Rubber Bumper  - 2
LP-1269 - Headstock: Rubber Bushing  - 2
Q19-02343 - Tailstock and Turret Parts: Oil Hole Cover  - 4
Q19-00626 - Tailstock and Turret Parts: Ball Oiler - 2
LP-1206 - Spring (LA-519) - 2


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## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> I talked it over with my wife... I thought she was going to have a fit when I arrived home with another lathe (two in less than a week)... but I told her that I was done... finally found what I was looking for with this Logan.  No more buying lathes, mills, etc.
> 
> To my surprise, she was fine... told me that she did not wanted me to get rid of stuff that gave me joy... I even mentioned the possibility of selling the wood lathe after it was done and her response was "but how are you going to make me the bowls that that I want?"  So I guess the wood lathe is staying...
> 
> No pressure even in getting rid of the 9x20 lathe...   so I was stressing for nothing...  Life is good...


When you start making her those "trinkets" and you go out shopping and she sees something that she likes.. you go, "oh yeah, i can make that.. but i need such and such to do it with!"


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## wachuko

Yeah… this color is going to work just fine…


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## wachuko

Okay... details on the mystery piece...

Dimensions: 1-5/8"x4-3/8"x12-1/8"
Setup to be place instead of the carriage/cross slide.  Has adjusters for the gib and a nut to be able to move in and out once installed...


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## Steve-F

Sure looks like a cross slide widget of a sort:<)


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## wachuko

Steve-F said:


> Sure looks like a cross slide widget of a sort:<)


Yes.  Most likely made by a previous owner as I can't match it to a factory accessory.


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## Just for fun

Looks like it could come in handy for something.  You should call the guy you bought it from and ask him what it is or what it was for.


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## wachuko

Cleaning between breaks…

Why will someone paint a knurled knob!!??  Clean and polished but there is still paint left to remove…


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## wachuko

Using this duplicate post to add some progress…




Almost done…




But I thought those fingers needed to be brass so the would not damage/mark the workpiece… These are steel…


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## WhyW8

One pair of sexy legs, and one not so sexy pair --- its going to look great when you get all cleaned and painted


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## wachuko

This one is done…







And finished cleaning the paint off of this…


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## matthewsx

wachuko said:


> Okay... details on the mystery piece...
> 
> Dimensions: 1-5/8"x4-3/8"x12-1/8"
> Setup to be place instead of the carriage/cross slide.  Has adjusters for the gib and a nut to be able to move in and out once installed...
> 
> View attachment 414363
> View attachment 414364
> 
> View attachment 414369
> 
> View attachment 414365
> 
> View attachment 414366
> 
> View attachment 414367
> 
> View attachment 414368


Put it on there and see if it becomes obvious.


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## matthewsx

BTW, paint? just use what you have on hand if it looks good that's a bonus.

Love the old iron too, my Seneca Falls Star is kinda like industrial art. I also have a v-belt driving a reversing jackshaft which drives the flat belt to the spindle. You will want to change the motor out for a 3-phase with VFD....

Don't loose any lantern post tools that came with it, they are nice for the occasional job where a QCTP won't quite fit.

Three (metal) lathes sounds about right, especially if you have two houses, now I need to find another one  

John


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## wachuko

@matthewsx , once a workshop is built in the backyard of the new house we will move from our current house… all lathes will be in the same house  

Yes, paint I had stored away.  When I got paint for the drill press, with how scarce spray paint is, I bought a case of them… so plenty spray in hand to finish this lathe.

I will leave it as is with the current motor… I want to move the belt for changing speeds… doubt I will get tired of that… just love the mechanical aspect/experience of this old machine…

Lantern post, yes Sir, I have to try using it!!


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## matthewsx

You can still change belts if you have variable speed. But you can’t get between speeds with single phase….

Will you have a separate workshop for wood?


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## wachuko

matthewsx said:


> You can still change belts if you have variable speed. But you can’t get between speeds with single phase….
> 
> Will you have a separate workshop for wood?


Ahhhh true… I just did not wanted to alter the looks of the lathe…well… looks like I will I do a VFD after all… All of you are just bad influence!    

It was never my intention to work on wood…so no separate shop for it… Good thing that Delta lathe has casters…it will be rolled outside when I want to use it…


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## deakin

fingers should be cast iron.  pretty common


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## wachuko

deakin said:


> fingers should be cast iron.  pretty common


Ohh... took it out again to look closer at it.  You are correct... cast iron.  Good to know.


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## mattthemuppet2

Love the new lathe, it'll be a beauty when you're done!

Another option for variable speed is a DC motor, like off a treadmill. So far over been able to do pretty much everything I want on my sb9 with just one belt ratio, though I will be making a 3 sheave counter shaft pulley soon I hope


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## wachuko

Okay... Tailstock almost done...






The color is not an exact match to the original... but it is similar enough...










Working on the handle and wheel next...


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## Jim F

That dauber would stand out better if it was polished brass.


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## wachuko

Jim F said:


> That dauber would stand out better if it was polished brass.


At first I thought that it was brass and you were calling out that I should have not painted it... so I stripped all paint to discover that it is not brass...

And now I get it... you were suggesting that I make one out of brass... got it.

For now I stripped the paint and polished it.   Making one out of brass will be my first brass project.   Cool!




Tailstock is done... I did not have the time to polish, to a mirror finish, the handwheel... will do that at a later time.


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## wachuko

Strap wrench arrived and was able to remove the chuck... that was easy...

Placed a hex bar in the chuck, strap wrench on the flat head pulley in the headstock, 11/16" wrench on the hex bar and it came loose without a fight.







Union Manufacturing U-770 6" three-jaw chuck.  All extra jaws were missing... eventually I would like to get a new chuck for this lathe...


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## Jim F

My SB9 has a steel plug, also.
Have a drawing to make a brass dauber, once I am allowed back in the shop.


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## wachuko

I am guessing that the previous owner painted the chuck and the switch cover yellow because of his eye sight... to help him see those better... Can't think of why else he would do that.

Removed all the yellow from the chuck.  Removed the switch, stripped all the paint and gave it a new coat... was able to get all of the paint of the emblem as well...

I seem to have misplace some spacers that the previous owner had between the motor base and the motor stand base... I will need to figure out the correct thickness to make those... that or figure out the length of a new belt to keep the motor without spacers.  Either way, I should be able to get it running again next week...

As mentioned, I will need to go over the wiring... When I tested at the previous owner garage, the lathe was spinning forward whether I had it in FWD or REV... Today I took a quick look and all wires are connected, nothing was loose... So I need to get the diagram and validate that is wired correctly...

Photos...

Before:




After:











More of the anvil blue showing up little by little...


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## Shiseiji

wachuko said:


> More photos...
> View attachment 414155
> 
> 
> View attachment 414154
> 
> 
> View attachment 414156
> 
> View attachment 414157
> 
> 
> View attachment 414158
> 
> 
> View attachment 414159
> 
> 
> View attachment 414160
> 
> View attachment 414161
> 
> View attachment 414162
> 
> 
> 
> I bought the owners manual but can’t seem to be able to download, email sent to Logan…
> 
> The leather belt is fairly new (I have the receipt from 2020).
> 
> Motor is not original…or at least the pulley is not... as it is running with a v-pulley on the motor and flat on the top...
> 
> View attachment 414170
> 
> 
> Also, it runs only in one direction…does not matter if the switch is in forward or reverse…
> 
> View attachment 414166
> 
> 
> View attachment 414165
> 
> View attachment 414167
> 
> 
> View attachment 414163
> 
> View attachment 414164
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a lot of cleaning and sorting out the wiring…


Vee to flat is original. The 1820 is when the change was made.


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## Shiseiji

First, big congrats! FWIW, these lathes operated for decades in production shops working with the speeds provided and HHS. IMHI Don't get too wrapped. When my VFD died  and I just started to use the pulleys I didn't notice anything. What I've found to be my best investment is a set of HHS  tangental tool holders. Super easy to grind and easy lap on a diamond  stick keeps them sharp. I'm personally just not big on carbide. To use it "well" it needs to be sharpened and that means a diamond wheel. The tangental holders can be found in the Home Machinist, the magazine,  store or get them straight from Gary in Australia. His IG is well worth a look and you can see the tools in use on YouTube.   Much better than the $ I  spent on the VFD. 

The switch will depend on what wires you find under the motor cover. The manual shows how to wire it up. Because of how the neutral is wired in these switches, it's possible it was set to be single setting to comply with current code.  Given the history of who you purchased it from, I'd consider that likely. I think I've read only one person concerned about the switch in the ??8 years I had my Logan on many different forums. If you do go the VFD route, you can't use the switch for reverse without basically building a new switch inside the cover.

 I suspect the after market cross slide held a grinder. The tapped holes for moving the motor based on the size of the work. Could also hold a milling attachment much more rigidly than the compound.


----------



## wachuko

Shiseiji said:


> First, big congrats! FWIW, these lathes operated for decades in production shops working with the speeds provided and HHS. IMHI Don't get too wrapped. When my VFD died  and I just started to use the pulleys I didn't notice anything. What I've found to be my best investment is a set of HHS  tangental tool holders. Super easy to grind and easy lap on a diamond  stick keeps them sharp. I'm personally just not big on carbide. To use it "well" it needs to be sharpened and that means a diamond wheel. The tangental holders can be found in the Home Machinist, the magazine,  store or get them straight from Gary in Australia. His IG is well worth a look and you can see the tools in use on YouTube.   Much better than the $ I  spent on the VFD.
> 
> The switch will depend on what wires you find under the motor cover. The manual shows how to wire it up. Because of how the neutral is wired in these switches, it's possible it was set to be single setting to comply with current code.  Given the history of who you purchased it from, I'd consider that likely. I think I've read only one person concerned about the switch in the ??8 years I had my Logan on many different forums. If you do go the VFD route, you can't use the switch for reverse without basically building a new switch inside the cover.
> 
> I suspect the after market cross slide held a grinder. The tapped holes for moving the motor based on the size of the work. Could also hold a milling attachment much more rigidly than the compound.



On the motor wiring, I will check... I doubt I would want to use reverse, but would be nice to have it working as it should.




Heading to Ocala after work, so I will not be able to do anything today.  I did snap a few photos before heading out.  When I said there was a need for lots, and lots of cleaning, I was not joking... I need to get new bolts and washers to secure the motor to the base.  Belt that came with it is a Goodyear 84480 (48")... I thought this was supposed to use a 49" belt.  It was working with this one, so I will install it for now and order a new one... 




Just nasty...









When I place the motor on the belt (no bolts)... The motor bracket is supposed to be hinged at one side with a bolt and nut adjustment that raises or lowers it, to provide increase or decrease tension on the v-belt... It was too dirty for me to even test that before heading out to work, lol. 

Next week I will take this section apart, pressure wash it and then strip and paint.


----------



## Jim F

Reverse is necessary to have.
If you are going to do metric threading, need reverse.
At work, they use reverse when threading anything, just leave the half-nuts engaged.


----------



## matthewsx

Lots of schools painted stuff yellow.


----------



## wachuko

Jim F said:


> Reverse is necessary to have.
> If you are going to do metric threading, need reverse.
> At work, they use reverse when threading anything, just leave the half-nuts engaged.



Good to know.  I thought it was not recommended on chucks that are screwed on without locks.



matthewsx said:


> Lots of schools painted stuff yellow.



Ahh... learned something new.


----------



## Jim F

wachuko said:


> Good to know. * I thought it was not recommended on chucks that are screwed on without locks.
> *
> 
> 
> Ahh... learned something new.


When you are threading, reverse is not cutting, just returning to the beginning.


----------



## matthewsx

And going slow....


----------



## Shiseiji

Jim F said:


> Reverse is necessary to have.
> If you are going to do metric threading, need reverse.
> At work, they use reverse when threading anything, just leave the half-nuts engaged.


----------



## Shiseiji

Are you sure those lathes have screw on chunks? That's a common technique on lathes with a cam lock that won't unscrew when the thread has to go to a shoulder.


----------



## Shiseiji

Regarding re-mounting the motor. Not something you have to be overly concerned with, but I made do with my 820 on a wide  bench for a while the infamous "previous owner" (PO) put the lathe on . Getting to the motor bolts was a royal PIA. I have a small mill and made some tee nuts that fit the underside of motor shelf. Made a huge difference. If you consider replacing the motor, pay close attention to where a start cap may be on the motor, or if there is a wiring bulge, proper term is escaping me at the moment, on the case. They can make mounting some motors impossible. A fluid resistant wire housing from a home improvement center looks good IMHO, and is easy to keep clean.


----------



## wachuko

Shiseiji said:


> Regarding re-mounting the motor. Not something you have to be overly concerned with, but I made do with my 820 on a wide  bench for a while the infamous "previous owner" (PO) put the lathe on . Getting to the motor bolts was a royal PIA. I have a small mill and made some tee nuts that fit the underside of motor shelf. Made a huge difference. If you consider replacing the motor, pay close attention to where a start cap may be on the motor, or if there is a wiring bulge, proper term is escaping me at the moment, on the case. They can make mounting some motors impossible. A fluid resistant wire housing from a home improvement center looks good IMHO, and is easy to keep clean.


Motor is fine… General Electric 60Hz, 115Volts, 1/2 HP… si luckily I don’t have to buy a new one.  I did run it before putting it on the trailer..  my mistake was not taking photos before I took it out…. But that does not matter now… I will figure out correct setup/install and do so…

I just need to install back after I clean and paint the base/stand.

In Ocala until Saturday night… so not able to do anything until then…

On another topic… against all logic and common sense… looking into a PWT Multifix tool post system… asked Peter for a quote for:

1 - System A Tool Post
10 - AD1675 Holders
1 - AV75 round adapter for squares holder
2 - AH1675 Holder
1 - AT2075L Parting Tool Holder with 26mm blade holder and carbide cutters
4 - Spare bolts for each parts of tools


----------



## Jim F

Shiseiji said:


> Are you sure those lathes have screw on chunks? That's a common technique on lathes with a cam lock that won't unscrew when the thread has to go to a shoulder.


The ones at work are cam locks.

My SB9 has a screw on chuck. I have started using the same technique at home.
You are not cutting in reverse, merely returning to start another cut.
Was I not clear ?


----------



## Shiseiji

Well, I can be dense, so it may have been the receiver. I have read of people trying to thread in reverse, the only success being the chuck removal. I spun mine loose once, honestly can't remember what I was doing that I thought I needed reverse for.   Fortunately I was exercising a lot if caution and going quite slow so didn't spin it off. Better to learn this way than the school of hard knocks which can be expensive.


----------



## Shiseiji

Jim F said:


> When you are threading, reverse is not cutting, just returning to the beginning.


Jim, I missed this one. Sorry. That is one advantage to a VFD, the ability to stop really fast and then reverse without disengaging the half nuts. Sans VFD, I got educated by nice people here in the board to run the lathe as slow as possible and disengage the half nuts. Of course then the operator also gets to play with the threading dial.  On the endless list is a spindle crank for hand threading to a shoulder. One day . . .


----------



## Shiseiji

wachuko said:


> Motor is fine… General Electric 60Hz, 115Volts, 1/2 HP… si luckily I don’t have to buy a new one.  I did run it before putting it on the trailer..  my mistake was not taking photos before I took it out…. But that does not matter now… I will figure out correct setup/install and do so…
> 
> I just need to install back after I clean and paint the base/stand.
> 
> In Ocala until Saturday night… so not able to do anything until then…
> 
> On another topic… against all logic and common sense… looking into a PWT Multifix tool post system… asked Peter for a quote for:
> 
> 1 - System A Tool Post
> 10 - AD1675 Holders
> 1 - AV75 round adapter for squares holder
> 2 - AH1675 Holder
> 1 - AT2075L Parting Tool Holder with 26mm blade holder and carbide cutters
> 4 - Spare bolts for each parts of tools


Hmmmmm, personally, I think I'd rather have the tangential tool holders and a fancy self centering chuck. I read that as nice as they are, it's still necessary to adjust them on the compound. When you are knocking out a bunch and time is money, makes sense for tooling. I try to go with a balance of |Good|Quick|Cheap| you can have any two. Seriously no other tooling or some good indicators, maybe a surface plate, DRO, $ for a Clausing 8535 mill that is worth the :30 seconds it takes to adjust the Alorus clone?  The Clausing's are a great size to complement the 820. Just saying . . . 

Might want to both read up on the carbide vs. HHS opinions and what speeds and pressure are being used to make carbide work on a lathe designed for HHS. I've seen a lot of people use them just fine. But I've spent far less on HHS and, better yet, Crobalt ( can't get the whole url to paste, look under products. https://www.eccentricengineering.com.au ). It's a cast product  50% Cobalt and other "stuff". Leaves more for Porsche parts  And no "ah crap" because I just knocked the tip off my last insert.


----------



## Ben17484

Nice looking lathe and nice resto project 

I’m currently painting and tidying up my new to me 1953 smart and brown SAB. I’ve chosen Reseeda Green for my new colour. I wish I’d have read this thread first as I’d probably have chosen the colour you’re using!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jim F

Shiseiji said:


> Jim, I missed this one. Sorry. That is one advantage to a VFD, the ability to stop really fast and then reverse without disengaging the half nuts. Sans VFD, *I got educated by nice people here in the board to run the lathe as slow as possible and disengage the half nuts*. Of course then the operator also gets to play with the threading dial.  On the endless list is a spindle crank for hand threading to a shoulder. One day . . .


Threading metric with a Imperial machine, that does not work, half nuts need to stay engaged during the entire threading process.

At work, they leave the half nut engaged to prevent missing the mark.


----------



## wachuko

Ben17484 said:


> Nice looking lathe and nice resto project
> 
> I’m currently painting and tidying up my new to me 1953 smart and brown SAB. I’ve chosen Reseeda Green for my new colour. I wish I’d have read this thread first as I’d probably have chosen the colour you’re using!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You should have no regrets.  That green looks great.  Following your progress as well.


----------



## wachuko

Shiseiji said:


> Hmmmmm, personally, I think I'd rather have the tangential tool holders and a fancy self centering chuck. I read that as nice as they are, it's still necessary to adjust them on the compound. When you are knocking out a bunch and time is money, makes sense for tooling. I try to go with a balance of |Good|Quick|Cheap| you can have any two. Seriously no other tooling or some good indicators, maybe a surface plate, DRO, $ for a Clausing 8535 mill that is worth the :30 seconds it takes to adjust the Alorus clone?  The Clausing's are a great size to complement the 820. Just saying . . .
> 
> Might want to both read up on the carbide vs. HHS opinions and what speeds and pressure are being used to make carbide work on a lathe designed for HHS. I've seen a lot of people use them just fine. But I've spent far less on HHS and, better yet, Crobalt ( can't get the whole url to paste, look under products. https://www.eccentricengineering.com.au ). It's a cast product 50% Cobalt and other "stuff". Leaves more for Porsche parts  And no "ah crap" because I just knocked the tip off my last insert.



Oh man, you touched on several points...  I do appreciate your feedback, thank you.

Funny that you mentioned the tangential tool holders... I ordered the diamond tool holder yesterday... from Gary at Eccentric Engineering.  I was not aware of the Crobalt cutters... I just sent him an email to see if he can drop a few of those in the recent order, to try them out.  It is close to 11pm in Australia, I do hope he sees it in time before shipping the other order.  This way, I can least save a few $ in shipping costs... I ordered it in 1/2"... maybe I should have order it in 3/8" size... oh, well, if it is too big for this lathe, I can always use it in the bigger lathe and order a smaller one for the 820.

Keep in mind, these tools are for just hobby use... I am not going to be making any money with them...   I do have milling machines (mill 1, mill 2) and two other lathes (thing 1, thing 2)... Had I found this lathe before the others... maybe, just maybe, this would had been my only lathe... well, can't lie, that big G0709 is so nice to use... and the HF 9x20 was very inexpensive to acquire... as you can tell, I have attachment issues  

I have a surface plate and building my toolbox as I learned from the folks here... 

I do want a nice chuck for this lathe... but I have to say... the factory chuck, I like how thin it is.  Does not stick out that much.  Something that will happen with almost everything that I find... all the ones I have seen so far, require a backplate.  Making the stick out so much more than the stock unit... 

On the toolpost.  I have the Aloris clones on the other two lathes.  I just find the design of the Multifix too cool to pass up... I would like to give it a try.  I will have to make a T-nut like what Abom79 made... so it is all one flat surface...  I think that it would look great on the 820...   I know, I know... some of you guys might be going like "Dude! it is not about looks!"...   






Anyway... that was a long reply...lol...


----------



## wachuko

Shiseiji said:


> Regarding re-mounting the motor. Not something you have to be overly concerned with, but I made do with my 820 on a wide  bench for a while the infamous "previous owner" (PO) put the lathe on . Getting to the motor bolts was a royal PIA. *I have a small mill and made some tee nuts that fit the underside of motor shelf. Made a huge difference. *If you consider replacing the motor, pay close attention to where a start cap may be on the motor, or if there is a wiring bulge, proper term is escaping me at the moment, on the case. They can make mounting some motors impossible. A fluid resistant wire housing from a home improvement center looks good IMHO, and is easy to keep clean.


I missed that comment... I will try to do that as well.   Thank you.


----------



## wachuko

Just making a list of what I want to eventually get for this lathe:


Follow rest - it was missing.
PWT Multifix A System tool post... I just have the hots for this... no logical reason... an Aloris clone would be just fine and much, much cheaper... *- Ordered!*
Long point MT2 tapered live center.  Just want a new one for when the lathe is done. *- Ordered an inexpensive one for now... Installed!*
MT2 tapered drill chuck.  Just want a new one for when the lathe is done.
A good 6" chuck... my desire is a combination 4-jaw Bison... my wallet says "heck no!!"...  so maybe will look for an used Bison...
An old, period correct for this lathe, industrial lamp/light... *- Ordered and installed!*
Taper attachment
3AT or 5C collect setup... unsure which one to go with... there is a Bison with integrated 1-1/2"x8tpi... but that goes for almost US$900.00!!
There is a cool ER32 collect chuck on eBay... compact and fairly inexpensive... and I can use the ER32 collects that I already have...
I need to fight the urge to change the compound rest top... it has a nick on both front corners... not a big deal... but guess what I see every time I look at the compound rest...  I just want to take advantage that the company is still in business and selling all these parts... *- Fixed the original one...*


----------



## Shiseiji

Jim F said:


> Threading metric with a Imperial machine, that does not work, half nuts need to stay engaged during the entire threading process.
> 
> At work, they leave the half nut engaged to prevent missing the mark.


Yep. That's how most people do it.


----------



## Shiseiji

wachuko said:


> Oh man, you touched on several points...  I do appreciate your feedback, thank you.
> 
> Funny that you mentioned the tangential tool holders... I ordered the diamond tool holder yesterday... from Gary at Eccentric Engineering.  I was not aware of the Crobalt cutters... I just sent him an email to see if he can drop a few of those in the recent order, to try them out.  It is close to 11pm in Australia, I do hope he sees it in time before shipping the other order.  This way, I can least save a few $ in shipping costs... I ordered it in 1/2"... maybe I should have order it in 3/8" size... oh, well, if it is too big for this lathe, I can always use it in the bigger lathe and order a smaller one for the 820.
> 
> Keep in mind, these tools are for just hobby use... I am not going to be making any money with them...   I do have milling machines (mill 1, mill 2) and two other lathes (thing 1, thing 2)... Had I found this lathe before the others... maybe, just maybe, this would had been my only lathe... well, can't lie, that big G0709 is so nice to use... and the HF 9x20 was very inexpensive to acquire... as you can tell, I have attachment issues
> 
> I have a surface plate and building my toolbox as I learned from the folks here...
> 
> I do want a nice chuck for this lathe... but I have to say... the factory chuck, I like how thin it is.  Does not stick out that much.  Something that will happen with almost everything that I find... all the ones I have seen so far, require a backplate.  Making the stick out so much more than the stock unit...
> 
> On the toolpost.  I have the Aloris clones on the other two lathes.  I just find the design of the Multifix too cool to pass up... I would like to give it a try.  I will have to make a T-nut like what Abom79 made... so it is all one flat surface...  I think that it would look great on the 820...   I know, I know... some of you guys might be going like "Dude! it is not about looks!"...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway... that was a long reply...lol...


 'nuff said. Gary is a good guy, I did the same thing on one of my orders and he caught it and adjusted the order.  I'm pretty sure I have the 3/8" on the AXA clone. IMHO the tangential tool holders are brilliant. One day I'll get my State College cross slide finished and be able to use the back side cut off tool. Comment on the thin chuck. My friend Winky (Mark) did some cut off experimenting he posted to YouTube on cut off and chatter that makes the thinner chuck interesting. That said I've read other articles that give a different technique I haven't been able to try. Babble babble . . .


----------



## Shiseiji

wachuko said:


> Just making a list of what I want to eventually get for this lathe:
> 
> 
> Follow rest - it was missing.
> PWT Multifix A System tool post... I just have the hots for this... no logical reason... an Aloris clone would be just fine and much, much cheaper...
> Long point MT2 tapered live center.  Just want a new one for when the lathe is done.
> MT2 tapered drill chuck.  Just one a new one for when the lathe is done.
> A good 6" chuck... my desire is a combination 4-jaw Bison... my wallet says "heck no!!"...  so maybe look for an used Bison...
> An old, period correct for this lathe, industrial lamp/light...
> Taper attachment
> I need to fight the urge to change the compound rest top... it has a nick on both front corners... not a big deal... but guess what I see every time I look at the compound rest...  I just want to take advantage that the company is still in business and selling all these parts...
> 
> View attachment 414668
> 
> 
> View attachment 414671


Forgot, the compounds are pretty common on eBay, Anthill farm ( IIRC) manages to come up with a lot of Logan parts and everything I've purchased from him was in good shape as advertised. eBay follower rest prices, IMHO, are high enough I decided to just get a new one from Scott. 

R


----------



## wachuko

Shiseiji said:


> Forgot, the compounds are pretty common on eBay, Anthill farm ( IIRC) manages to come up with a lot of Logan parts and everything I've purchased from him was in good shape as advertised. eBay follower rest prices, IMHO, are high enough I decided to just get a new one from Scott.
> 
> R


I will keep an eye on EBay…so far, the two I have seen there, are in worse shape than mine.


----------



## wachuko

Shiseiji said:


> 'nuff said. Gary is a good guy, I did the same thing on one of my orders and he caught it and adjusted the order.  I'm pretty sure I have the 3/8" on the AXA clone. IMHO the tangential tool holders are brilliant. One day I'll get my State College cross slide finished and be able to use the back side cut off tool. Comment on the thin chuck. My friend Winky (Mark) did some cut off experimenting he posted to YouTube on cut off and chatter that makes the thinner chuck interesting. That said I've read other articles that give a different technique I haven't been able to try. Babble babble . . .


Great video and article


----------



## Shiseiji

wachuko said:


> Great video and article


Mark's another one of the really good ones. He often posts on the Groups.io board Scott moderates. After a discussion on finishes he emailed me and offered some inserts he likes. I had some extra Acme screw I thought he might like to make an extended cross slide screw for his larger dials and wouldn't accept it even as a "maybe some day." High on my "I'm a gunna." list is fitting a set of Hardinge dials I got a great deal on.


----------



## wachuko

A few things came in today…

Original clutch assembly…




Felt, rubber bushings, rubber feet…spare oilers




Could not resist… fingers with bearings…






And I stripped the paint off the knob and polished it… will be painting the cover next…




Oh… and measuring the stock chuck…


----------



## Shiseiji

Where is the spindle registration with the chuck removed? Looks like it's 2" out from the bearings. Mine is almost flush with the bearing cap. Interesting.


----------



## wachuko

Shiseiji said:


> Where is the spindle registration with the chuck removed? Looks like it's 2" out from the bearings. Mine is almost flush with the bearing cap. Interesting.


Yeah… I do wonder if the chuck on Mark’s lathe is 5” or 6”.   I was looking on EBay for one and the 5” chucks where closer to the spindle…


----------



## wachuko

Order placed for a new compound rest top…




And also ordered a new gear selection plate…

And the last order today was with Peter for a PeWeTools Multifix tool post system…

I will wait a few months for the follow rest…

These expenses will require that I sell the 9”x20”… I really overspent on stuff today…


----------



## wachuko

The other leg painted


----------



## wachuko

Shiseiji said:


> Where is the spindle registration with the chuck removed? Looks like it's 2" out from the bearings. Mine is almost flush with the bearing cap. Interesting.


I don’t think I answered your question…


----------



## wachuko

A few more photos




I just noticed that paint run… I will redo this cover tomorrow


----------



## wachuko

Rinse and repeat... stripped the gears cover again and repainted it, again... luckily, no paint runs this time...




Started to disassemble the quick change gear area...  this is how it looked before...




Baby steps... stripped the knobs... these should not be painted...




Removed gear plate... I could not remove the drive screws... no technique I tried worked... ended up grinding them until the plate came loose...   I will have to punch location and drill new holes to install the new one.




So much to clean... for now I will just leave the photos here...










So much to clean... will be doing this after work...


----------



## wachuko

More cleaning... doing it in stages... the layers of oil mixed with sawdust, metal, grease, etc....










Also installed shorter bolts on the legs... previous owner had the lathe over a bench... so the left leg was taller... got shorter bolts and got it leveled.




And remember these?  




Took them apart and into the parts washer…




Now looking better...


----------



## wachuko

I had ordered a compound rest from Logan but turns out it is not an exact match.  Scott reached out before sending to let me know that the Compound Top I ordered is used AFTER S/N 50843 and mine is S/N 28907.

So I will be using the one I have.  I removed it... will make the T-Slot in preparation for the Multifix system install...







Could not stand looking at the corners... so J-B Weld it is...


----------



## wachuko

Looking better now... still need to file the top... waiting until tomorrow to let the JB-Weld harden more...


----------



## wachuko

Additional photos… Don’t judge the madness… there is no order to how I am doing this…


----------



## Just for fun

Looks great so far!


----------



## wachuko

Some progress...














Rubber inserts installed...


----------



## Just for fun

Your machine is looking great!


----------



## wachuko

Just for fun said:


> Your machine is looking great!


Thank you! 

As you can see, still lots to clean... In the last two photos you can see that I cleaned the pulleys, for the leather belt, with acetone.  Then used fine sandpaper to clean them further, then acetone again...  I envy those rebuilds that I have seen where the pulley surface looks nicely polished, but no way I can get them like that... at this point I just want them clean, free of any oil, so the leather belt grips nicely...

I now need to clean the gears in there as well...

Trying to do all this with minimal disassembly... The lathe was running tight, I do not want to mess with any alignment issues by taking something apart...


----------



## wachuko




----------



## wachuko

I ordered a new plate... The before photo is deceiving... you can't see anything under normal light... reason why I ordered a new one...






I went ahead and took the time to lightly sand, with 2000 sandpaper, the original one...  Much better.  I can definitely see it now clearly.  So I can reuse if needed...


----------



## Steve-F

Puuuurdy!!


----------



## wachuko

Steve-F said:


> Puuuurdy!!


Looks like I will use the original one.  I did not notice that the one I ordered is not an exact match.

I did not read the description... 






			LP-1785B
		


"Nameplate for Quick Change Gearbox
Brass Nameplate, etched and paint filled, drilled for attaching to Gearbox
Used on 10", 11" and 2900 Series 12" Lathes *after S/N 67839*
Stud Gears are 36T and 72T"

Oh well... it will make for a beautiful wall decoration...


----------



## wachuko

Motor housing mount/isolators replaced...


----------



## wachuko

Old lamp arrived... could not resist installing right away.  Installed one of those rubber LED light bulbs that look old school but are shock resistant... 

I will remove to paint to match... but man!  I like it!!

Paint on the motor housing/mount is not even dry and I am installing stuff on it ... I feel like a frigging little kid... 












Mounted using existing threaded holes in the motor mount/housing


----------



## WhyW8

Looks great... Love the lamp


----------



## wachuko

I waste so much time assembling parts only to look at them in place… I confess to sitting and staring into projects and just daydreaming…

Anyway, all this needs to come out to recondition… motor, pulley, etc.








Getting there...


----------



## Shiseiji

wachuko said:


> I don’t think I answered your question…


Same as mine, bad eyes. Thanks!


----------



## Ben17484

wachuko said:


> Old lamp arrived... could not resist installing right away. Installed one of those rubber LED light bulbs that look old school but are shock resistant...
> 
> I will remove to paint to match... but man! I like it!!
> 
> Paint on the motor housing/mount is not even dry and I am installing stuff on it ... I feel like a frigging little kid...
> 
> 
> View attachment 415358
> 
> 
> View attachment 415359
> 
> View attachment 415360
> 
> View attachment 415361
> 
> 
> Mounted using existing threaded holes in the motor mount/housing
> 
> View attachment 415362



This is looking fantastic - great job! 

(Love the Porsche in the background - what’s the story on that?)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ben17484

wachuko said:


> I ordered a new plate... The before photo is deceiving... you can't see anything under normal light... reason why I ordered a new one...
> 
> View attachment 415332
> 
> View attachment 415333
> 
> 
> I went ahead and took the time to lightly sand, with 2000 sandpaper, the original one... Much better. I can definitely see it now clearly. So I can reuse if needed...
> 
> View attachment 415334



I can’t remember where I saw it, but I saw someone fix uo their data plate by spraying the whole thing with black paint and then sanding over the top to reveal the numbers in their brass colour. As the number are slightly raised they sand down without hitting the black paint underneath (Does that make sense?)


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----------



## Aukai

Ditto for looking great!!


----------



## wachuko

Ben17484 said:


> This is looking fantastic - great job!
> 
> (Love the Porsche in the background - what’s the story on that?)
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you  

Full story on the Porsche is here:  https://www.912bbs.org/forum/threads/my-1967-912-build-thread.44462/


----------



## wachuko

Ben17484 said:


> I can’t remember where I saw it, but I saw someone fix uo their data plate by spraying the whole thing with black paint and then sanding over the top to reveal the numbers in their brass colour. As the number are slightly raised they sand down without hitting the black paint underneath (Does that make sense?)
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That is what I did minus painting.... the only painted area needing attention is the red one... but I will leave it alone... as mentioned, the enemy of good is better... not going to risk to mess it up...


----------



## Ben17484

I’ve just re-read this thread and might have missed it, but did you say what the colour was? I may be wanting a new colour for my lathe  I’m not sure I’m feeling the green I chose for my lathe. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wachuko

Ben17484 said:


> I’ve just re-read this thread and might have missed it, but did you say what the colour was? I may be wanting a new colour for my lathe  I’m not sure I’m feeling the green I chose for my lathe.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Here you go:  Krylon Anvil Gray




I bought it both in spray cans and a quart... thinking both would match... but the one in the can is a slightly different shade... So I have be stuck using the spray for everything.  Makes it a challenge in some tight spaces... So I would spray into a brush to then reach those areas and avoid having different shades of Anvil Gray in the lathe.  I hope that makes sense...


----------



## wachuko

I want to make this for my lathe... placing here for future reference...

Part 1






Part 2


----------



## wachuko

Something else that I want for this lathe is one of those cool looking 3C/3AT collet drawbars with the wooden handwheel...

Researching what would fit...  Asked a fellow forum member for the dimensions of the one that came with his lathe... to see if I can find something on eBay.  I need the dimensions to avoid buying something that ends up not working because it is too short...




This is what I know so far:

1. The headstock bore in my lathe accommodates 3/4" stock
2. Headstock length from border to border, where threads end, is 12-3/4" long
3. Headstock has MT3, so the adapter needs to be 3C to MT3
4. 1-1/2" x 8 TPI.  I ordered a spindle thread protector from ebay...




I have not done any threading... I do not have the skills at this time to do so.  So making threads on a piece of stock, is not an option at the moment.

Since last night I was able to research the following...

1. If I was to make one, LittleMachineShop has one already threaded in 18" long.  I would just have to cut to length.  Comes with 3C collet closer for 3MT spindle lathes.  Cutting to length, that I can do... Link: Universal Collect Closer . But it does not have the cool looking wooden handwheel... would have to make one and adapt it..  They also have 3C collets... so I could get it all from them.

2. There are a few on eBay, but without the correct length, I risk getting one that would not work (too short).


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> I have not done any threading... I do not have the skills at this time to do so.


_Yes, you do have the skills to do so._  Just try it.  

/startcheerleading
It is not as hard as you are making it (in your mind) to be.  Chuck up a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe and try it.  If you eff up on the pvc, you have lost pennies.  And try again, and again.  Won't take long to figure it out.  Once you get it on pvc, try it on aluminum.  Then the world is your oyster.  Seriously, it's not difficult.  Make sure your tool height is correct, and your compound angle is ok.  Many issues with threading are related to those two issues.  You have already done much harder stuff as evidenced by your own posts.  
/endcheerleading


----------



## BGHansen

Having collets is a nice option; better centering when removing/re-chucking on the lathe, and less marring on soft materials.  I attached a thread where I did some adapting to install a 5-C closer on my Grizzly lathe.  I had to cut the draw tube to length and recut the internal threads for the collet.

Cutting threads can be a bit over-whelming when you haven't done it before.  But, I'd recommend jumping in and adding it to your skill-set.  Start with external threading on some PVC tubing or similar.  Once you get a few reps under your belt it'll go like second nature.

Bruce










						5-c Collet Closer Installation To A G0709
					

Santa brought me an early present this year, a 5-C lever style collet closer for my Grizzly G0709 lathe!  Grizzly does not sell a collet closer specifically for the G0709, but they do sell one for a 14 x 40 lathe (model H5948).  The price is right at $270.  The regular price is $450 so these are...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## WhyW8

wachuko said:


> I want to make this for my lathe... placing here for future reference...
> 
> Part 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part 2


This project is on my list as well.


----------



## Ben17484

You definitely can to single point threading. I say this, because if I can d on it, anyone can 

Others have mentioned PVC, I practiced on brass (because I had some and it’s a soft metal). I just figured out the thread I needed, tried it out, if it didn’t work, turned down the failed threads and then started again. Eventually when I figured it out on the brass (proper gears Installed, correct depth etc etc) I did the thread on the real part. 

Abom79 on YouTube has some great videos on this. I’d recommend them. 


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----------



## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> _Yes, you do have the skills to do so._  Just try it.
> 
> /startcheerleading
> It is not as hard as you are making it (in your mind) to be.  Chuck up a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe and try it.  If you eff up on the pvc, you have lost pennies.  And try again, and again.  Won't take long to figure it out.  Once you get it on pvc, try it on aluminum.  Then the world is your oyster.  Seriously, it's not difficult.  Make sure your tool height is correct, and your compound angle is ok.  Many issues with threading are related to those two issues.  You have already done much harder stuff as evidenced by your own posts.
> /endcheerleading





BGHansen said:


> Having collets is a nice option; better centering when removing/re-chucking on the lathe, and less marring on soft materials.  I attached a thread where I did some adapting to install a 5-C closer on my Grizzly lathe.  I had to cut the draw tube to length and recut the internal threads for the collet.
> 
> Cutting threads can be a bit over-whelming when you haven't done it before.  But, I'd recommend jumping in and adding it to your skill-set.  Start with external threading on some PVC tubing or similar.  Once you get a few reps under your belt it'll go like second nature.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5-c Collet Closer Installation To A G0709
> 
> 
> Santa brought me an early present this year, a 5-C lever style collet closer for my Grizzly G0709 lathe!  Grizzly does not sell a collet closer specifically for the G0709, but they do sell one for a 14 x 40 lathe (model H5948).  The price is right at $270.  The regular price is $450 so these are...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hobby-machinist.com





Ben17484 said:


> You definitely can to single point threading. I say this, because if I can d on it, anyone can
> 
> Others have mentioned PVC, I practiced on brass (because I had some and it’s a soft metal). I just figured out the thread I needed, tried it out, if it didn’t work, turned down the failed threads and then started again. Eventually when I figured it out on the brass (proper gears Installed, correct depth etc etc) I did the thread on the real part.
> 
> Abom79 on YouTube has some great videos on this. I’d recommend them.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Guys, I truly appreciate your words of encouragement.  I will get there... but I will not start with this project.  I would really prefer to find one made...

I have overcome the fear of using a boring bar, making radius cuts, etc.  I turned down the backplate for my 4-jaw chuck for the 9"x20" (but it was already threaded! ), made a new handle for that lathe as well. That floating locking vise project got me to push out the fear of a few things I wanted to learn...  But threading is still not something I want to tackle right at this moment...   I will soon.  I got the PVC pipes in different diameters, got all the tools I need to do the threading... so soon I will give it a try.  But I really do not want to try it with this...

I was looking at an Atlas drawbar that is in Ebay... but after the seller sent me dimensions, it is too short... the length from the border to the where the taper starts is 9-1/2"










If I can't find another drawbar with the wooden handwheel, I will just order the one from LittleMachineShop Universal Collect Closer and cut to length... and see about making my own wooden handwheel...


----------



## Ben17484

wachuko said:


> Guys, I truly appreciate your words of encouragement. I will get there... but I will not start with this project. I would really prefer to find one made...
> 
> I have overcome the fear of using a boring bar, making radius cuts, etc. I turned down the backplate for my 4-jaw chuck for the 9"x20" (but it was already threaded! ), made a new handle for that lathe as well. That floating locking vise project got me to push out the fear of a few things I wanted to learn... But threading is still not something I want to tackle right at this moment... I will soon. I got the PVC pipes in different diameters, got all the tools I need to do the threading... so soon I will give it a try. But I really do not want to try it with this...
> 
> I was looking at an Atlas drawbar that is in Ebay... but after the seller sent me dimensions, it is too short... the length from the border to the where the taper starts is 9-1/2"
> 
> View attachment 415978
> 
> 
> View attachment 415984
> 
> 
> View attachment 415985
> 
> 
> If I can't find another drawbar with the wooden handwheel, I will just order the one from LittleMachineShop Universal Collect Closer and cut to length... and see about making my own wooden handwheel...



Totally get it. There’s no rush. 

I got a draw bar and collets with my lathe, but no collet closer, so I think I’ll have to make one. I’ll keep an eye out for photos (hint hint  ) of what yours looks like so I can copy it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wachuko

I gave up looking for one... plus the asking prices, for the used drawbars I found, were ridiculous...  I ordered the one from Little Machine Shop with a 3C collet set...

Placing this video here for future reference:


----------



## wachuko

Some more progress…

Motor pulley painted




The shaft on the drive pulley was in pretty bad shape… I ordered a new 3/4”x12” shaft from McMaster








Took it all apart, cleaned and painted…

Removing the shaft was a PITA… I will have to eat my word with the little 1-Ton arbor press… sucker has been extremely useful… I did have to cut the shaft as close as I could… besides the grooves it was also slightly bent…

That in the photo is just a 3/4” round stock I have… not good to use for a shaft…




New shaft should be here Thursday so I can put it all back together next week…


----------



## Aaron_W

wachuko said:


> 3. Headstock has MT3, so the adapter needs to be 3C to MT3
> 
> 
> 1. If I was to make one, LittleMachineShop has one already threaded in 18" long.  I would just have to cut to length.  Comes with 3C collet closer for 3MT spindle lathes.  Cutting to length, that I can do... Link: Universal Collect Closer . But it does not have the cool looking wooden handwheel... would have to make one and adapt it..  They also have 3C collets... so I could get it all from them.



Before you buy anything verify that your spindle is actually a true MT3. My lathe is an 11" with a 1" bore and has what I thought was an MT4, but it is an odd ball, close but not quite an MT4. This may not be an issue on real Logans as mine is from the Powermatic / Logan era.  

As far as the wooden handle, if only you had a classic Delta wood lathe to turn that on...


----------



## wachuko

Aaron_W said:


> Before you buy anything verify that your spindle is actually a true MT3. My lathe is an 11" with a 1" bore and has what I thought was an MT4, but it is an odd ball, close but not quite an MT4. This may not be an issue on real Logans as mine is from the Powermatic / Logan era.
> 
> As far as the wooden handle, if only you had a classic Delta wood lathe to turn that on...


I did check, indeed it is an MT3 

And yeah, if only I had one of those old Delta wood lathes!   I guess I found it’s first project!

That one is almost done… I mean, it is ready to be used, but I want to finish painting the tailstock and holder (cross slide??). And I found the correct pulley to replace the one that is missing one step…just need to drill and ream to 3/4”


----------



## wachuko

Belt cover now in place... and looking at the photo... I think I will remove again and completely strip the paint... I only did a clean up and light sanding... should have taken it down to the metal like I did with the other stuff... carp... 




I need to make the clip that holds the door closed... mine broke when removing it... 




Temporary install while I wait for the shaft ordered... I just wanted the parts off the bench...


----------



## Just for fun

I have done the same thing, including completely removing the paint and repainting.


----------



## Aukai

If you have the time you can strip it, the first photo looks nice. If someone comes in the shop and starts bending over to give it a close inspection, kick'em in the slats to distract them.


----------



## wachuko

Aukai said:


> If you have the time you can strip it, the first photo looks nice. If someone comes in the shop and starts bending over to give it a close inspection, kick'em in the slats to distract them.



I already took it out and started to get the paint off...  It was really bothering me as it is a huge part that I see as I walk into the garage... 




I also had order some material to make the t-nut for the compound... material arrived, cut to size for machining...  taking it with me to Ocala to use the Wells-Index (just so much easier than doing this on the G0704)...


----------



## wachuko

I will have some fun with it.... ordered an 8" tin sign... Could not find the one I wanted... so this one will do for now...  The ones that I liked were only available in 12" and those would not fit in the available space...


----------



## Aukai

~ meh okay I guess


----------



## wachuko

Aukai said:


> ~ meh okay I guess



The door had a warning label so I was looking for something funny with a "Do not open" , "Do not get in here... " , "Restricted Area"... but it needed to be round and max 8" in diameter...  

I am still looking...


----------



## Aukai

It is your machine, so whatever you like.


----------



## wachuko

Aukai said:


> It is your machine, so whatever you like.


I just want to be different... like everyone else...


----------



## wachuko

Spring latch broke on me... and for the life of me, I can't find where I placed the broken pieces...

Was able to find a photo of someone else that did the same... so making one.

Photo of what someone did... not original... but close to what the original looks like...




Started to bend the material... but I should wait until I have the door painted and mounted before I make  the next bend...


----------



## wachuko

Done… was faster to finish this and avoid the risk of misplacing the tiny screws…


----------



## wachuko

Width is done... now to make the T...  well, by now I mean tomorrow...  Good night!


----------



## wachuko

The shame, the shame, the shame...  but I will share it anyway...   So I secure this stock in the vise... I get the largest cutter I have, 3/4" 4-flute end mill... I am saying in my mind... I have a Wells-Index... this puppy is going to eat this like there is no mañana...  So I go for a single cut of all the material that needs to be removed...  And to top it off, I start cutting in the wrong direction... yeah, climb milling instead of conventional... So the end mill digs into the side of the part and the machine stops... I hit the E-Stop.... and I am just going "you stupid F****!!!"  You had to try to do this in one pass instead of several cuts, and on top of that, you forget the proper direction to cut it from"  Arrggggghhhh....   

But wait... it gets better... You would think that I would have checked to see if the vise moved with all this... But nooooooo...  Instead I removed the 4-flute end mill, well, because in the process I broke one of the flutes... Install a new one and continue the work...

A complete mess... I figure all this is wrong when I remove the part and test fit it to the compound... goodness... 

So I swallow my pride, after finding it, and proceed to fix the vise....




Then to square the cuts on the top...




And mill the length to correct dimension..




Now, I do not have any more material here... all that is back in Orlando... so I just continue to try to at least square the cuts made...   All goes well from this point on but the top of the T-Nut ends up smaller than in needs to be... duh! 





So now I am thinking... do I leave it as is?  Do I redo the part?  Not sure what to do...  It was going so well until I got greedy trying to remove material... what a dumba***....


----------



## Aukai

Looks pretty tight in the slide....


----------



## wachuko

Aukai said:


> Looks pretty tight in the slide....


Yes, perfect fit there... 

So this gap should not be an issue?




I will need to drill, tap, counterbore for two 1/4" - 20 bolts to secure it to the compound....  then drill a hole in the center and tap for a bolt for the PWT Multifix toolpost... 

Basically what Abom79 did...


----------



## Just for fun

Well bummer, I would probably leave it though.


----------



## Gnpenning

wachuko said:


> Width is done... now to make the T...  well, by now I mean tomorrow...  Good night!
> 
> View attachment 416147
> View attachment 416148


What is the correct grade of steel for this?


----------



## Aaron_W

wachuko said:


> Yes, perfect fit there...
> 
> So this gap should not be an issue?
> 
> View attachment 416263
> 
> 
> I will need to drill, tap, counterbore for two 1/4" - 20 bolts to secure it to the compound....  then drill a hole in the center and tap for a bolt for the PWT Multifix toolpost...
> 
> Basically what Abom79 did...



Regarding the gap, it seems like if nothing else it will become a trap for chips. I could be wrong, but I was under the impression that the fit at the top of the T slot was more critical than the bottom. It's probably not that big a deal, but it would bug me.


----------



## wachuko

Aaron_W said:


> Regarding the gap, it seems like if nothing else it will become a trap for chips. I could be wrong, but I was under the impression that the fit at the top of the T slot was more critical than the bottom. It's probably not that big a deal, but it would bug me.


It is bugging me as well… I will cut another piece and start again…



Gnpenning said:


> What is the correct grade of steel for this?


I do not know… I am using 1018 CR…. Someone that knows can chime in…


----------



## wachuko

Just for fun said:


> Well bummer, I would probably leave it though.


Thought about just leaving it… but best to just make another one… will see if this can be turned into T-Nuts for the milling machine.

Sucks, but lesson learned…


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Looks fine to me, I wouldn't worry about it. The two critical dimensions are the bottom width and the height. The bottom has to fully engage the T and the height has to be lower than the top of the compound. The rest doesn't matter 

I'd also recommend not drilling and tapping the compound. There's no need as the tool post won't move around once the tool post bolt is tightened and you'll potentially weaken the compound.


----------



## wachuko

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Looks fine to me, I wouldn't worry about it. The two critical dimensions are the bottom width and the height. The bottom has to fully engage the T and the height has to be lower than the top of the compound. The rest doesn't matter
> 
> I'd also recommend not drilling and tapping the compound. There's no need as the tool post won't move around once the tool post bolt is tightened and you'll potentially weaken the compound.



Thank you for calling that out.  I will avoid any changes to the compound. ...

I keep going back and forth on making another one or not... I am with @Aaron_W that it will be a place for chips to fall in... maybe I can fill that with something and still use it... 

The PWT Multifix should be here Monday today!  I need that to figure out what bolt to use for the install... so looks like I am done in the garage for this trip...

In Ocala until Saturday night...  doing the lawn and moving a few things

Will keep you all posted... Thank you!!!


----------



## BGHansen

wachuko said:


> Yes, perfect fit there...
> 
> So this gap should not be an issue?


No issue at all. The load is on the "wings", not the center area. If the "wings" were cut too thin I'd be worried about them flexing letting the nut bottom out in the middle; you'd lose clamping at that point.  But you're fine.

I was running a routine on my Bridgeport CNC years ago, cutting stainless with a 1/4" end mill.  My BP has an ancient control on it, no control on the motor.  I didn't have coolant on the mill either (do now).  I'd start the routine, sit at the work bench doing other stuff while it was running, and glance up to see if the routine was finished.  In the middle of a part it sounded "funny".  Looked over and saw an orange end mill plowing on through.  Quick hit the E-stop, waited for things to cool down and threw the "dowel pin" in the spindle in the trash.  Stuff happens, it's how we learn.  

Thanks for posting!

Bruce


----------



## Steve-F

wachuko said:


> Thought about just leaving it… but best to just make another one… will see if this can be turned into T-Nuts for the milling machine.
> 
> Sucks, but lesson learned…


No biggy, welcome to the club:<) It will work just fine! I could write for days to account for my blunders


----------



## mattthemuppet2

wachuko said:


> Thank you for calling that out.  I will avoid any changes to the compound. ...
> 
> I keep going back and forth on making another one or not... I am with @Aaron_W that it will be a place for chips to fall in... maybe I can fill that with something and still use it...
> 
> The PWT Multifix should be here Monday today!  I need that to figure out what bolt to use for the install... so looks like I am done in the garage for this trip...
> 
> In Ocala until Saturday night...  doing the lawn and moving a few things
> 
> Will keep you all posted... Thank you!!!


hopefully chips will be all over that lathe soon, getting in all kinds of places  I wouldn't worry about it, it'll be just fine. To be honest I'm learning that a little less precision can sometimes be a good thing - if precision isn't needed then you save a lot of time and effort with a slightly looser fit.


----------



## wachuko

Here is the end mill I damaged... 







And this one I damaged last week because I wanted to get close to the part... well, got to close and broke one of the flutes... amazing the things these end mills can cut, but yet at the same time, they are brittle... 






Well, I will use the t-nut as is... drilled and tap two 1/4-20 for using two set screws.  Nothing drilled or modified on the compound. 

Center hole is so I have a guide, when I get to Orlando, on where the Multifix will be.  That will need to be drilled and tap for whatever size the PWT requires...


----------



## Steve-F

They are still good for side cutting:<)


----------



## wachuko

Steve-F said:


> They are still good for side cutting:<)


They are!  I am not getting rid of them, hehehehe... dual purpose use... side cutting and reminder of past mistakes, lol.


----------



## Just for fun

Here is the T Nut from my tool post, factory PM stuff.





I should have a taken a second photo, I guess this one doesn't really show it that well.

Tim


----------



## wachuko

Just for fun said:


> Here is the T Nut from my tool post, factory PM stuff.
> 
> 
> View attachment 416358
> 
> 
> I should have a taken a second photo, I guess this one doesn't really show it that well.
> 
> Tim


Tim,

Yeah, I should be good  

In other news, a few goodies arrived


----------



## wachuko

Removed the apron.  Glad to see it was free of chips.






How can I determine if the half-nut is fine or in need of replacement…


----------



## wachuko

Top spacer modified.  T-nut is done.  Threaded for 1/2”-13 and Multifix installed.


----------



## Ben17484

That’s a nice looking tool post! I don’t know much about these multi fix qctp (other than Anon79 uses them), what’s the advantage of these over the seemingly more common AXA style of tool post?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wachuko

Ben17484 said:


> That’s a nice looking tool post! I don’t know much about these multi fix qctp (other than Anon79 uses them), what’s the advantage of these over the seemingly more common AXA style of tool post?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I do not know about advantages over the other one.  I have those in the other lathe and I should have stayed with the same style to be  able to share holders…

This was a case of me wanting to try this style… want vs need…

I do know of one disadvantage, making holders for the Aloris-style holder is a heck of a lot easier…. 

Only one advantage that I know of… once you fix this one in place, no need to loosen the main post.  You can turn the angle much easier.

But again, my reason was that it looked cool and I wanted it for my special lathe… So hardly a valid or justifiable reason at all…


----------



## wachuko

More progress… ordering half-nut just to replace and forget about it… apron is easy to remove to replace when it arrives…






All for now…wife is calling…


----------



## Ben17484

wachuko said:


> I do not know about advantages over the other one. I have those in the other lathe and I should have stayed with the same style to be able to share holders…
> 
> This was a case of me wanting to try this style… want vs need…
> 
> I do know of one disadvantage, making holders for the Aloris-style holder is a heck of a lot easier….
> 
> Only one advantage that I know of… once you fix this one in place, no need to loosen the main post. You can turn the angle much easier.
> 
> But again, my reason was that it looked cool and I wanted it for my special lathe… So hardly a valid or justifiable reason at all…



Sounds like a good enough reason to me. I think they look really cool and I’ve definitely bought things out of want rather than need a lot in my life time! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wachuko

Order place for half-nut, half-nut pin, and also took the opportunity to order the missing follow rest as well... 

I think that I am done ordering parts for my lathe...


----------



## wachuko

Shaft installed as well as drive belt…






I also replaced the legs bolts…


----------



## wachuko

Got a second lamp with a different shade… Now to decide which one to install…


----------



## Jim F

Are you sure the flat belt is correct ?
Smooth/fur side should be to the pulleys.


----------



## wachuko

Jim F said:


> Are you sure the flat belt is correct ?
> Smooth/fur side should be to the pulleys.


Jim,

Yes, fur side is to the pulleys.  Let me share a photo...


----------



## wachuko

This lathe is less noisy than the 9" x 20"... I like it!  Short video because I could not resist to give it a go!


----------



## Steve-F

Sweet!!!


----------



## Just for fun

That's cool, Good Job Man!


----------



## wachuko

Someone called out that the handles were not supposed to be painted, but polished... 

One fixed... one more to go...


----------



## wachuko

Before





After




And cleaned the thread dial... this beauty is made out of brass... I do not have the heart to paint it...


----------



## WhyW8

I agree --- leave it natural


----------



## wachuko

WhyW8 said:


> I agree --- leave it natural


Natural it is!


----------



## wachuko

ER32 Collet Chuck arrived...







I just need to machine the backplate...


----------



## great white

Is that a 911 in the background?


----------



## wachuko

great white said:


> Is that a 911 in the background?


1967 Porsche 912 - My Build Thread


----------



## wachuko

Almost done with the apron…


----------



## WhyW8

looks great - now get the backing plate turned and start making those threads


----------



## wachuko

WhyW8 said:


> look great - now get the backing plate turned and start making those threads



For the ER32?  Yes, all I have to do is to machine the registration on the backplate and it should be good to go.

Also, the 3C collet drawbar arrives Wednesday... that one will need to be cut to size.  So I have a few projects to keep me busy with this lathe.

Trying to see if I can start making chips with it before the end of the week.


----------



## wachuko

wachuko said:


> Order place for half-nut, half-nut pin, and also took the opportunity to order the missing follow rest as well...
> 
> I think that I am done ordering parts for my lathe...


@matthewsx I meant parts for repair or missing stock factory accessories like the follow rest….

We all know that I will continue buying tooling, gadgets, and whatchamacallits!!


----------



## wachuko

So much for waiting until the end of the week… 

I made chips!!!


----------



## wachuko

It was way too late for me to write about it...  Now, somewhat awake, and with a shoot of espresso in my body...

So I could not wait to test it... not something I should have done without going over everything first... you see, I forgot to tighten the set screws in the rear pulley... so the lathe was not coming up to speed... pretty sure I have nice grooves in that new and shiny shaft that I installed...

Then I realized that the apron was not adjusted in the back.  I had loosen those when I removed the apron.  Easy fix.

Also forgot to install the ways felt/wipers...  I will do that today.

Initial cuts had a very rough finish no matter what I tried... then I realized the cutter needed replacing, duh... flipped around the carbide insert and everything started looking a lot better.

This 1945 piece of machinery feels and works so great.  Everything is tight and smooth... very happy with it...

Today I will try to finish the ER32 collect.


----------



## wachuko

Machined the backplate.  Does not show well on the photo, but it came out very nice...




Threads on the backplate to the spindle is nice and tight.  No play.  That was welcomed.

Threads for the bolts that hold the chuck - M8-1.25.   I will need to run a thread chaser/cleaner.  Bolts would bind half way in.  But the chuck fits perfectly... 




Bolts (3 M8-1.25 x 20mm) best to get quality ones.  I am discarding these.

Of course, I do not have an M8-1.25 chaser or tap... so will have to wait for a quick trip to the local hardware store to get one and finish this project... Once I do that I can put it all together and measure runout.


----------



## wachuko

Looks like I am not going to have time to get out to do a quick run to the hardware store... Amazon it is... bolts, taps, and bearings will be here tomorrow...

Bearings... yeah... I installed the clutch lever and went to give it a try, the one that activates the cross slide feed... This one:




One of the bearings shattered... 




3/6" ID, 1/2" OD - turns out these are the same size as the bearings used on routers... so I ordered a few to keep as spares for the lathe and the wood-working routers.

And removed the original part from the assembly I found in eBay...  So everything is still functional.  I have to say, I am so glad I had the spare assembly so I could see how it works.  Installing that knob correctly was a royal PITA...


----------



## wachuko

Door stripped and painted... much better now...




Also installed the nameplate for the quick gear change...


----------



## Steve-F

Waaaay Better!!!


----------



## WhyW8

Steve-F said:


> Waaaay Better!!!


agreed...  

I do not want my old Logan to see any of these pictures, she'll cry NEGLECT!


----------



## wachuko

Getting closer… figured I can use it as is and install the half-nut later… it is not that the one there is bad, I just wanted to replace it and forget about it…. The desire to start using it won over.  I will save the new half-but to install at a later date…


----------



## wachuko

I need to figure out a setup for a toolbox under it to hold everything that pertains to this lathe…Something I can roll in and out..

Limitation is height.  Has to fit under 28” H x 36”W.  I might need to build a cart to place an intermediate box on it…

I like what this guy did… drawers would be better…One downside, no ability to move it out…plus concerned it might be too much weight for the table…


----------



## Just for fun

wachuko said:


> Getting closer… figured I can use it as is and install the half-nut later… it is not that the one there is bad, I just wanted to replace it and forget about it…. The desire to start using it won over.  I will save the new half-but to install at a later date…
> 
> View attachment 416765



Beautiful !!


----------



## wachuko

Just held with a magnet for now…




ER32 chuck done 




3C Collet setup in progress


----------



## wachuko

3C collet done!




Scribed a mark to make it easy to orient the slot on the collet when inserting... and applied some red paint.  Now, looking at the photo, I should have done the line also on the face of the adapter... not always will the mark be visible... obviously I did not think that one through... Easy fix.


----------



## wachuko

The bearings arrived and was able to fix the aftermarket clutch engagement for the Logan 820. I installed the stock knob... so I will save this assembly for any future need...




Got lazy... no way I was removing the switch and motor again just to paint the harness... placed a wire loom cover over... Done!





Follow rest and half-nut should be here tomorrow...


----------



## wachuko

Follow Rest arrived.  Just need to get two 5/16" x 2" hex cap screws... and paint it to match, of course...






Half-nuts also arrived... and just realized that I only ordered one of the pins... good grief...  hopefully the ones in the lathe are in good condition and I can reuse them.


----------



## wachuko

Fixed... now I can see the mark even if the top mark is facing down...


----------



## wachuko

Got the materials and casters to make the cart for the toolbox... going with 2" metal casters that should hold the weight well.  Trade-off is that these casters have no brakes... I do not think that will be a big deal.  I can always insert something in them to keep them from moving.

And forgot to place photos of the lamp here...




After completing the wiring... all done...





And used the wood lathe for the first time, to make the wood handwheel for the 3C collet drawbar...  it was an impulse... I was planning on using some exotic wood as my first project for this... well... we are at the house in Ocala and were working on another raised planter... some treated 2x6 scraps were laying around...  So I rolled the Delta lathe outside and gave it a try...

Funny, because I started with a 5-1/2"x5-1/2" square and quickly realized, after chunks of wood were flying by me, that I needed to cut as much as I could with the circular saw BEFORE using the lathe...  after getting close to the circumference with the saw, then I went back to the lathe... much much much smoother to work it...  orientation of the wood grain also played a part... had to flip it around as well....   It was a great learning experience...

Need to apply some wood stain, build a center hub for it and install it!


----------



## Just for fun

Looks like you're building yourself kind of a museum piece.  Looks very nice!


----------



## wachuko

Just for fun said:


> Looks like you're building yourself kind of a museum piece.  Looks very nice!


Thank you, but far from making it a museum piece   … this puppy will get used a lot!!

I have decided to sell the HF 9”x20” as soon as I am done.   Two lathes will be more than enough for this newbie.


----------



## Jimsehr

The rectangular part in your pics is a production cross slide. It makes it easy to put a tool on the front and backside of the lathe. It is easy to change from the standard cross slide to the production slide. Many people say production slides are less apt to chatter then the standard compound slide. I started machining in 1953 with a new Logan that was set up with the production slide. And I still prefer it to the standard slide. I didn’t see the gib for the production slide in the pic.


----------



## Jimsehr

wachuko said:


> Thank you.
> 
> I will post it on the Logan Yahoo group to see if I get confirmation... will report back.
> 
> It does have a nut... I will take better photos and measure it to add to the description...


Logan made 2 production cross slides 1 had a lever and the other used the cross slide screw. Both had a hard stop you could use if wanted.


----------



## Jimsehr

wachuko said:


> Using this duplicate post to add some progress…
> 
> View attachment 414412
> 
> 
> Almost done…
> 
> View attachment 414413
> 
> 
> But I thought those fingers needed to be brass so the would not damage/mark the workpiece… These are steel…


You can insert brass tips if you want. Also use roller bearings if you want . Some people don’t like the roller bearings because chips can get under them and mark parts. But you can build a chip shield out of cardboard to stop that.


----------



## wachuko

Jimsehr said:


> The rectangular part in your pics is a production cross slide. It makes it easy to put a tool on the front and backside of the lathe. It is easy to change from the standard cross slide to the production slide. Many people say production slides are less apt to chatter then the standard compound slide. I started machining in 1953 with a new Logan that was set up with the production slide. And I still prefer it to the standard slide. I didn’t see the gib for the production slide in the pic.


I will look for the gib in the other stuff the previous owner gave me… but I think that the gib is missing…


----------



## wachuko

Took a video for a fellow forum member... and sharing here so folks can see that I applied the decal.  It is official.  Please meet Roxanne!


----------



## wachuko

Painted to match the follow rest and also got a new stainless steel tray for it…


----------



## Ben17484

wachuko said:


> Painted to match the follow rest and also got a new stainless steel tray for it…
> 
> View attachment 417854



The lathe is looking really good 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wachuko

And finally made the base with caster for the toolbox... After thinking and trying different approaches, a simple 1/2" piece of plywood, with casters bolted to it, did the trick...


----------



## Aukai

I really like how that all turned out.  
If you put your SS chip tray across the long way could you fit another one beside it? I drill a lot of long stock, and the chips would miss your tray.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

aww man, I'm jealous - you get a NEW cookie tray for a chip pan. I only get the old beat up ones the wife is throwing out


----------



## wachuko

mattthemuppet2 said:


> aww man, I'm jealous - you get a NEW cookie tray for a chip pan. I only get the old beat up ones the wife is throwing out



I had saved it from when I bought them for the 9x20... they did not sell one... package came with two... I hid the second one before the wife could claim it, hehehehehe...



Aukai said:


> I really like how that all turned out.
> If you put your SS chip tray across the long way could you fit another one beside it? I drill a lot of long stock, and the chips would miss your tray.



As mentioned, I already had this one... I did try to find a longer one.  The space in there can accommodate a 30" long tray... This one is only 19-1/2" long.  I could try to find a smaller one to fill the rest.


----------



## Aukai

Length of the SS cross ways under the bed is what I'm wondering if it would fit another tray.


----------



## wachuko

Aukai said:


> Length of the SS cross ways under the bed is what I'm wondering if it would fit another tray.


Gotcha… the lathe tray is not that wide to turn it in that direction… I will measure when I get home

Edit: 17” x 30”


----------



## wachuko

Installed the drawer pads, bolted the plywood with the casters to the base, painted the border just to make it look like it belongs there... Done!




Now let's make some chips!!


----------



## francist

But it’ll get _dirrrty…._ 

Seriously, that’s one nice looking machine. I always like the looks of Logan lathes, and the matching paint on the cabinet is a really nice touch. 

-frank


----------



## Jimsehr

wachuko said:


> More photos...
> View attachment 414155
> 
> 
> View attachment 414154
> 
> 
> View attachment 414156
> 
> View attachment 414157
> 
> 
> View attachment 414158
> 
> 
> View attachment 414159
> 
> 
> View attachment 414160
> 
> View attachment 414161
> 
> View attachment 414162
> 
> 
> 
> I bought the owners manual but can’t seem to be able to download, email sent to Logan…
> 
> The leather belt is fairly new (I have the receipt from 2020).
> 
> Motor is not original…or at least the pulley is not... as it is running with a v-pulley on the motor and flat on the top...
> 
> View attachment 414170
> 
> 
> Also, it runs only in one direction…does not matter if the switch is in forward or reverse…
> 
> View attachment 414166
> 
> 
> View attachment 414165
> 
> View attachment 414167
> 
> 
> View attachment 414163
> 
> View attachment 414164
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a lot of cleaning and sorting out the wiring…


Logan lathes came with a flat pulley on top and a v on the bottom.

I have heard that placing a piece of old style black electrical tape completely around the flat belt pulley makes it less likely to slip. Gives it more traction?


----------



## phubbman

Nice!!!
one more post with side by side before and after pics?


----------



## Bi11Hudson

That machine looks too pretty to use. It should be in a museum somewhere.


----------



## wachuko

phubbman said:


> Nice!!!
> one more post with side by side before and after pics?




Like this?





The part that I am so grateful for is that everything was working fine and tight... All that I did was mostly cosmetic...   Cleaning and paint... 




Oh, and I ended moving the switch to its stock location...










Only things replaced or added:

New Ways Felts
New Half Nuts
Purchased missing Follow Rest and Clutch Knob
PWT Tool Post
New Live Center
New 3C Collect Setup
New ER32 Setup
Added a Vintage Lamp
Removed all outlet boxes installed by prior owners.  Pretty sure I will be adding one of those back...



Bi11Hudson said:


> That machine looks too pretty to use. It should be in a museum somewhere.



I will add a Museum sign to my garage... How is that? hahahahahaha... It will get used.  I want this one to be my primary lathe and just use the G0709 for anything this cannot tackle...   There is a great and unmeasurable feeling that I get from using vintage tools... I really like it.


----------



## Ben17484

wachuko said:


> Like this?
> 
> View attachment 418145
> 
> 
> 
> The part that I am so grateful for is that everything was working fine and tight... All that I did was mostly cosmetic... Cleaning and paint...
> 
> View attachment 418146
> 
> 
> Oh, and I ended moving the switch to its stock location...
> 
> View attachment 418147
> 
> 
> View attachment 418148
> 
> 
> View attachment 418149
> 
> 
> Only things replaced or added:
> 
> New Ways Felts
> New Half Nuts
> Purchased missing Follow Rest and Clutch Knob
> PWT Tool Post
> New Live Center
> New 3C Collect Setup
> New ER32 Setup
> Added a Vintage Lamp
> Removed all outlet boxes installed by prior owners. Pretty sure I will be adding one of those back...
> 
> 
> 
> I will add a Museum sign to my garage... How is that? hahahahahaha... It will get used. I want this one to be my primary lathe and just use the G0709 for anything this cannot tackle... There is a great and unmeasurable feeling that I get from using vintage tools... I really like it.



Amazing transformation. Well done. I’m looking forward to seeing some posts of it in action!

Are you planning on a DRO?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wachuko

Ben17484 said:


> Amazing transformation. Well done. I’m looking forward to seeing some posts of it in action!
> 
> Are you planning on a DRO?



Thank you for the kind words.  I will be installing a DRO on the G0709 first... not sure if I will do the same with this one... 

Still no action photos... I thought I was done but found out that the previous owners, seeing the zerk fittings, used grease instead of way oil... 




Since I wanted to replace the half-nut, everything needed to come out again.  So took out the zerk fittings, cleaned all the grease.  Replaced the half-nut... installed new zerk fittings.






Half-nut assembly out...










Comparing new versus the ones I am replacing... 










New ones installed and ready to drop in place...






Pins were in excellent shape. 



Now installed in place...






Ordered this to push way oil in there... Push N Lube Pump for Zerk - for now I just oiled the ways and inserted oil in the holes before installing the fittings.




New zerk fittings in place...


----------



## T. J.

Jimsehr said:


> Logan lathes came with a flat pulley on top and a v on the bottom.
> 
> I have heard that placing a piece of old style black electrical tape completely around the flat belt pulley makes it less likely to slip. Gives it more traction?


In my experience, the flat belt from the countershaft to the spindle slips before the V-belt does.


----------



## wachuko

Finishing a few small tasks...   but I think that I will be needing a four-jaws chuck... 

Painted, to match, the back of the faceplate... it had been painted gray...




I took apart the 4-jaws chuck.  Cleaned it... removed the paint applied by previous owners...  and painted the back to match.  








When I started to assemble I noticed this:




The threads for the jaws bolts are in bad shape...


----------



## wachuko

Some of the tools that came with the lathe... need to clean them up...




This one I have no idea what it is for????


----------



## great white

wachuko said:


> Some of the tools that came with the lathe... need to clean them up...
> 
> View attachment 418400
> 
> 
> This one I have no idea what it is for????
> 
> View attachment 418397
> 
> View attachment 418398
> 
> View attachment 418399


Kinda looks like:



			Bison Live Center MT#2 Centers Lathe Interchangeable
		


I also seem to recall reading somewhere female centers were used for holding things that have a point or things that can’t have a centering hole drilled in them (like a motor armature, etc).


----------



## wachuko

great white said:


> Kinda looks like:
> 
> 
> 
> Bison Live Center MT#2 Centers Lathe Interchangeable
> 
> 
> 
> I also seem to recall reading somewhere female centers were used for holding things that have a point or things that can’t have a centering hole drilled in them (like a motor armature, etc).


Thank you.  Looks like I found something I did not know that I needed.  The one in the link is more than I want to spend, but I see less expensive alternatives.  Cool!


----------



## Jimsehr

Also called cup center. Can be handy .


----------



## wachuko

Jimsehr said:


> Also called cup center. Can be handy .



I will get one of those inexpensive kits that have interchangeable tips.  I wanted something that I could use on pipes/tubing... so seeing that there is a set that covers different applications, I will go with that.

And to consolidate the stuff I have been getting for the lathe...

Got a few solid carbide small boring bars... just to practice... found those on eBay.








15amp multiple outlet.  Same one I have on the HF9x20.  I will fix this one to the side of the toolbox.

Was able to find new old stock (NOS) chucks... US$190.00 each... came out to US$505.00 for both with shipping and taxes included.  Got them from HH Roberts out of Canada.  Wanted chucks with integrated/integral threaded setups in the hopes that these do not protrude more than the stock units... 

New (NOS) 5” 3-jaw Bison 2-piece jaw chuck with integral threaded 1-1/2”x8 tpi mount
New (NOS) 6” 4-jaw Atlas chuck with integral threaded 1-1/2”x8 tpi mount - stock one that I have is 8"... but 6" will do just fine.  If I need to work something larger I can always take it over to the Grizzly lathe... 




Used Buck 5" 6-jaw chuck.  Well, two in fact... I just need to make a backplate for one of them.  Thanks to @mattthemuppet2




ER32 collet set - 1/16"-3/4"
Cheap Türlen Test Dial Indicator 7 Jewels High Precision 0.0005" - I break these so often that is not even funny... this is my 3rd or 4th... I have a better one that I am always afraid to take out of its case...
30X Jewelers Loupe




Pending stuff:


DRO - I have some iGaging iP54 Electronic Digital Scales that I never used for the G0704... and since I went CNC with that one, I will not need them.  Also, I still have the TouchDRO box I made... and the tablet is around here somewhere... Will see if I can repurpose those and do something similar to what Matt did ( Link to his setup ).
Redo the wooden wheel for the ER32 collet drawbar.  The one I made was just to practice.  Now I want to make it out of some better wood...
Need chuck keys for the Jacobs drill chucks... those were missing.  But I am not close to the lathe.  Will order those when I am in Orlando and can measure the size.
Need to make the gib for that extra cross slide
MT2 tapered drill chuck. Just want a new one for when the lathe is done.  But pretty sure that I will better off restoring the Jacobs chuck that came with the lathe
< this one left blank on purpose for future entry >


----------



## Jimsehr

Now all you need is an inside collet. For holding on the bores of parts.
Rex Walters made a nice one for his 10 inch Logan check it out.
Search this site.


----------



## wachuko

Jimsehr said:


> Now all you need is an inside collet. For holding on the bores of parts.
> Rex Walters made a nice one for his 10 inch Logan check it out.
> Search this site.


Sweet!  









						Grabbing on the inside
					

My friend @jimsehr showed me something a while back that rocked my world. Jim's got a few years on me, and I've learned to pay attention when old-timers take the time to show you something.  How many parts have you made that looked something like this:    Now, how many parts have you made that...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## wachuko

Placing this here for future reference when I tackle the DRO install... Simple install.  I like it... and able to use what I have.  Only deviation from what he did is that I will try to keep the original cover on the cross slide... will see if that is possible.  Oh, and use the stuff I built from Yuriy's schematics (TouchDRO)


Funny how fast time just goes by... I built this back in September of 2015!!! All this time it has been sitting on a shelf in my office...


----------



## wachuko

Working on the Poor’s Man DRO…. 

Held in place with double face tape for now…just making sure all fits before drill and tap…




The bracket is bolted to the back of the reader… everything is looking good.


----------



## wachuko

Fixed the bracket... sharper edge now and slotted the holes for allowing adjustment...








Now that I know where it will end... I can trim the bracket and avoid it from extending... not that I have to...




Now to drill and tap for the end holders of the scale...


----------



## wachuko

Talk about great packing for shipping these heavy items.  Great job there @mattthemuppet2 !!










Yes, those tubes are bolted to the wood... I am telling you... this was not going anywhere!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Awesome! I'm glad they got there safe and sound


----------



## Ben17484

wachuko said:


> Fixed the bracket... sharper edge now and slotted the holes for allowing adjustment...
> 
> View attachment 418933
> 
> View attachment 418934
> 
> View attachment 418935
> 
> 
> Now that I know where it will end... I can trim the bracket and avoid it from extending... not that I have to...
> 
> View attachment 418936
> 
> 
> Now to drill and tap for the end holders of the scale...
> 
> View attachment 418938



Nice! I’ve been doing the same to my lathe today. Same iGaging and touchDRO package. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wachuko

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Awesome! I'm glad they got there safe and sound


Thanks again.  I went ahead and ordered a backplate... hoping I have to do minimal work on it to make it work...  Only dimension that I do not like is the thickness... it reads overall 1.10" but the schematic shows that it is only the larger diameter section... I sure hope that is incorrectly stated in the schematic and it is not that thick... Sure hopes it is overall 1" and not 1-3/4"


----------



## wachuko

Ben17484 said:


> Nice! I’ve been doing the same to my lathe today. Same iGaging and touchDRO package.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Share photos!!


----------



## Ben17484

wachuko said:


> Share photos!!



Yeah, I’ll add them to my build thread when I’m a bit further through. I’ve been adding the same to my mill as well. Shouldn’t be too long before theyre both done and ready to post about on here 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WhyW8

wachuko said:


> Thanks again.  I went ahead and ordered a backplate... hoping I have to do minimal work on it to make it work...  Only dimension that I do not like is the thickness... it reads overall 1.10" but the schematic shows that it is only the larger diameter section... I sure hope that is incorrectly stated in the schematic and it is not that thick... Sure hopes it is overall 1" and not 1-3/4"
> 
> View attachment 418968
> 
> 
> View attachment 418967


You can always turn the thickness down...  On my old Atlas I did not want all the added distance, so I removed the registration boss and turn the backing plate thickness down, then turned a new registration boss.  -- no need to have all the mass sticking out any further than necessary.


----------



## wachuko

WhyW8 said:


> You can always turn the thickness down...  On my old Atlas I did not want all the added distance, so I removed the registration boss and turn the backing plate thickness down, then turned a new registration boss.  -- no need to have all the mass sticking out any further than necessary.


Thank you! Good to know.  I will share photos when it arrives... if indeed it is almost 2" wide, I will do just that...

On other news... more progress on the DRO install... drill and tap 2-56 on the end of the scale for the bracket...  










On to the compound... These are small holes... I think I will remove the compound to drill it instead of trying to do it in place...


----------



## BGHansen

Congrats on the 2-56 tapping! Big pucker factor on stuff that small, especially when you feel a little resistance. 

Bruce


----------



## Bi11Hudson

As an aside, I do a great deal of 2-56 tapping, albeit usually in soft metal. For small taps, 4-40 and smaller, I normally use a "pin vise" instead of a tap wrench. The pin vise has several advantages, the first is that it can be chucked in the drill press vise to start true and then reverted to hand use. Then there is the pin vise chuck that doesn't tighten as much as one would like. It will slip if too much torque is applied. Frustrating but a good safety limit. It can be tightened if you think you can get by with just a little more oommph. Or require rethinking the process if you're that paranoid. And, most importantly, it is driven with no extension. Using just your fingers, the available torque is somewhat limited. I rarely break a 2-56 tap, or M2X.4, but have several on hand for when I do.

During the (rare) times I use a small tap in steel, I usually drill the next size larger hole than recommended. It does weaken the hole some small amount, but in most of my work the screw serves to bind two pieces that are not under extreme tension. But I'm building models, not machines. It can make a difference, I just use a larger screw.

.


----------



## wachuko

BGHansen said:


> Congrats on the 2-56 tapping! Big pucker factor on stuff that small, especially when you feel a little resistance.
> 
> Bruce


Well... I did break one on the second tap... had to order 4 more to make sure I had enough spares for the rest of the threads I need to do... . I have two more left...



Bi11Hudson said:


> As an aside, I do a great deal of 2-56 tapping, albeit usually in soft metal. For small taps, 4-40 and smaller, I normally use a "pin vise" instead of a tap wrench. The pin vise has several advantages, the first is that it can be chucked in the drill press vise to start true and then reverted to hand use. Then there is the pin vise chuck that doesn't tighten as much as one would like. It will slip if too much torque is applied. Frustrating but a good safety limit. It can be tightened if you think you can get by with just a little more oommph. Or require rethinking the process if you're that paranoid. And, most importantly, it is driven with no extension. Using just your fingers, the available torque is somewhat limited. I rarely break a 2-56 tap, or M2X.4, but have several on hand for when I do.
> 
> During the (rare) times I use a small tap in steel, I usually drill the next size larger hole than recommended. It does weaken the hole some small amount, but in most of my work the screw serves to bind two pieces that are not under extreme tension. But I'm building models, not machines. It can make a difference, I just use a larger screw.
> 
> .


I was not aware of what a pin vise was... now I know... I will get one next time I order something from Amazon...

Starrett Pin Vise


----------



## wachuko

A few more photos of the progress with the DRO install..

One axis done...  and I say one because I can't seem to find consensus in my searches as to which on is Z or Y, or X...  For the display I am just displaying this one as Y-axis... 








Now working on the pending one... X-axis??  Z?? 

This is why I needed to make those 2-56 threads...




Now I drill two holes... center punch on the lathe... thread those holes on the lathe with a 2-56 tap... taps should be here tomorrow...



Made a bracket for the reader... already painted to match and holes to mount the reader are done.  To secure to the lathe, there was a 3/8 threaded hole already there... tempted to drill and tap a second hole, but will hold off... looks like one bolt is enough to hold the bracket.  There is not much force from the sliding back and forth...





And the good thing of all this is that I should be able to use the factory cover... does not seem to be any interference with the DRO... I forgot to take a photo with the cover on...

I still need to cut the scale.  Does not need to be as long. I will do that last...


----------



## Bi11Hudson

The Starrett is a very nice pin vise, I have several. But for a tap wrench, I prefer a type put out by X-acto. Micro-Mark is a little expensive: https://www.micromark.com/mini-hand...MI3ejJkof1-QIVEmpvBB3dNwuBEAAYASAAEgKKoPD_BwE

An alternative like I have found at eBay and have several of:
https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Pin-Vise/IF145-156?o=1&pk_campaign={US|Shopping|MiscTools}&pk_source=google&pk_medium=cpc&pk_kwd=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx9WD94f1-QIVMRTUAR0oDAEvEAQYBiABEgL8OfD_BwE

A much better price, and more usable as pressure down is more easily applied for drilling.

It should be noted that the "lighter" or "cheaper" versions usually have 4 jaw collets. 3 jaw collets are fine for drilling but the 4 jaw works better as a tap wrench.

.


----------



## wachuko

Bi11Hudson said:


> The Starrett is a very nice pin vise, I have several. But for a tap wrench, I prefer a type put out by X-acto. Micro-Mark is a little expensive: https://www.micromark.com/mini-hand...MI3ejJkof1-QIVEmpvBB3dNwuBEAAYASAAEgKKoPD_BwE
> 
> An alternative like I have found at eBay and have several of:
> https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Pin-Vise/IF145-156?o=1&pk_campaign={US|Shopping|MiscTools}&pk_source=google&pk_medium=cpc&pk_kwd=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx9WD94f1-QIVMRTUAR0oDAEvEAQYBiABEgL8OfD_BwE
> 
> A much better price, and more usable as pressure down is more easily applied for drilling.
> 
> .


Could not find the X-acto ones… all links showed as discontinued…

I did find the ones from eBay, I think…









						Set of 2  Pin Vices Double End Pin & Swivel Head Pin Vise 4" Hand Tool (2 Piece)  | eBay
					

Pin Vise Body: Made of Brass. - A swivel head pin vise with 2 double end reversible collets/chucks made of steel. - Vise Body: Made of Brass. The range of the chuck/collets is 1.0 - 3.0mm (3/64" - 1/8").



					www.ebay.com


----------



## mattthemuppet2

for small taps I use a 1/4" jacobs chuck on a straight arbor, plenty of feel.

DRO install is looking good! That scale fits perfectly in there. I seem to remember needing to mill a little bit out on my Atlas 618, but it's still working just fine after many years.


----------



## wachuko

mattthemuppet2 said:


> ...
> 
> DRO install is looking good! That scale fits perfectly in there. I seem to remember needing to mill a little bit out on my Atlas 618, but it's still working just fine after many years.


Yes!  Pleasantly surprise of how easy, so far, the install has been...

Cover fits and there are no issues with the scale and reader...






Painted the 3-D printed cover for the electronics...   Installed on the back leg.  Only painted the cover, you can see some of the base (blue) showing in this photo since not all three axis are needed...






Multiple outlet attached with double face tape to the toolbox


----------



## BGHansen

I didn't see a reply or may have missed it. The Z-axis is parallel to the spindle axis. That's the longitudinal feed on a lathe.


----------



## wachuko

BGHansen said:


> I didn't see a reply or may have missed it. The Z-axis is parallel to the spindle axis. That's the longitudinal feed on a lathe.


Thank you. Will move it from Y to Z


----------



## wachuko

Moved the cable.  All good now.  




Also cut to length the X-axis scale and trimmed the end of the scale bracket.  Removed the mounting tab.





Made the holes in the front bracket and center punched on the lathe... just need to make those two holes and tap... 






Just waiting for the taps to arrive today so I can finish this task.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

wachuko said:


> Yes!  Pleasantly surprise of how easy, so far, the install has been...
> 
> Cover fits and there are no issues with the scale and reader...
> 
> View attachment 419055


that looks really slick, lovely work!

Cool that you found a suitable backplate for the 6 jaw too, I wouldn't have thought the adjust tru style were so readily available.


----------



## wachuko

SOAB!!!!! 




My inner me1 talk:  "Don't worry Wachuko... you only needed one bolt for this... "




My inner  me2 talk: "But now they will think less of me... I was doing so well... just needed to be patient with small increments on the turns... but I got too confident and wanted to do it faster.... What will they think of me!?  That I could not even handle those small 2-56 threads... the shame..   But wait!!   I know what to do... nobody will ever find out!  Buuuaahahahhahaa"





My inner me1 talk: " Don't do it man!  Have you no shame!!?"

My inner me2 talk: 




My inner me1 talk: "You are dead to me!"
My inner me2 talk: "Ah, just shut up... nobody will know..."


----------



## wachuko

Backplate, for the 6-jaw chuck, arrived...  email sent to the seller as the one that arrived only has 3 threaded holes on it instead of 6 shown in the listing...




Not really a big deal as I can make the rest... but waiting to hear from the seller before I work on it... All I have to do is reduce the center enough to make the zero set adjustable bolts work...


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> SOAB!!!!!
> 
> View attachment 419206
> 
> 
> My inner me1 talk:  "Don't worry Wachuko... you only needed one bolt for this... "
> 
> View attachment 419207
> 
> 
> My inner  me2 talk: "But now they will think less of me... I was doing so well... just needed to be patient with small increments on the turns... but I got too confident and wanted to do it faster.... What will they think of me!?  That I could not even handle those small 2-56 threads... the shame..   But wait!!   I know what to do... nobody will ever find out!  Buuuaahahahhahaa"
> 
> 
> View attachment 419208
> 
> 
> My inner me1 talk: " Don't do it man!  Have you no shame!!?"
> 
> My inner me2 talk:
> 
> View attachment 419209
> 
> 
> My inner me1 talk: "You are dead to me!"
> My inner me2 talk: "Ah, just shut up... nobody will know..."
> 
> View attachment 419210


Now you know how I feel on my lathe.  Similar goof.  My fix is a bit more difficult, though.  It's more an injury to pride than anything.  It should be fine.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

oh man, snapped tap or snapped bolt?


----------



## mattthemuppet2

should be easy enough to fix if you're so inclined - take the cross slide off, mount it upright in the mill and very carefully center a 4 flute centercutting carbide endmill in the hole. Use a slow downfeed and peck and you'll get it out just fine. Pick out the rest of the tap with a small pick and the threads you already cut should be intact. 

I've done it several times. it's a bit nervewracking but if you take your time you'll be fine.


----------



## wachuko

mattthemuppet2 said:


> should be easy enough to fix if you're so inclined - take the cross slide off, mount it upright in the mill and very carefully center a 4 flute centercutting carbide endmill in the hole. Use a slow downfeed and peck and you'll get it out just fine. Pick out the rest of the tap with a small pick and the threads you already cut should be intact.
> 
> I've done it several times. it's a bit nervewracking but if you take your time you'll be fine.





mattthemuppet2 said:


> oh man, snapped tap or snapped bolt?


Tap

But not sure what you are talking about… as you can see from the photo, I was able to install the bolt……….


----------



## mattthemuppet2

he he he! As my Dad would say, a blind man would be glad to see it


----------



## BGHansen

Running 2-56 taps reminds me of a line used by concrete contractors:  There are two types of concrete; concrete that has cracked and concrete that hasn't cracked yet.  If you do a lot of 2-56 tapping, you will break a tap!  I had a project with 6 holes tapped 2-56 about 1/2" deep.  It took over an hour to tap the holes as the part had about 10 hours of work in it before getting to the tapping job and I was SUPER paranoid about breaking a tap.  Run the tap in a turn or maybe two, then back it out to clean out the chips.  I even went to making a special tip for my compressor blow gun using a syringe needle to clear out the chips.  Yeah, I was using a spiral-pointed tap in blind holes instead of a spiral-flute tap.

A couple of things you may consider in the future to help with the anxiety (at least it worked for me).  Threaded fasteners are made for securing, not locating.  Pins are made for locating, not securing.  Sure, you can use screws to locate, but pins do a better job.  Same for securing with a press-fit pin, it works, but you can't beat a good screw!     

I'd have done 2 dowel pins in the bracket to locate the bracket and one tapped hole to secure the bracket.  Or, maybe one dowel pin for the 4-way locator and use a screw as a 2-way locator and securing device.  You'd be less likely to snap a drill bit than a tap; just lessens your chance of a problem having to thread 1 hole instead of 2.

Congrats on a great save!  If anyone notices it, they're probably up to no good.  I'd heard it multiple times from the Toolmakers at my former workplace:  The sign of a good machinist is how well he/she can hide their F-ups.

Just in case you haven't seen them, spiral-flute taps are great for blind holes as they drive the chip up and out of the hole like a drill bit.  Spiral-point taps are better for through-holes as they drive the chip down.

Great looking lathe, you should be proud!

Bruce


Spiral-flute tap for blind holes


Spiral-point tap for through holes


----------



## wachuko

BGHansen said:


> Running 2-56 taps reminds me of a line used by concrete contractors:  There are two types of concrete; concrete that has cracked and concrete that hasn't cracked yet.  If you do a lot of 2-56 tapping, you will break a tap!  I had a project with 6 holes tapped 2-56 about 1/2" deep.  It took over an hour to tap the holes as the part had about 10 hours of work in it before getting to the tapping job and I was SUPER paranoid about breaking a tap.  Run the tap in a turn or maybe two, then back it out to clean out the chips.  I even went to making a special tip for my compressor blow gun using a syringe needle to clear out the chips.  Yeah, I was using a spiral-pointed tap in blind holes instead of a spiral-flute tap.
> 
> A couple of things you may consider in the future to help with the anxiety (at least it worked for me).  Threaded fasteners are made for securing, not locating.  Pins are made for locating, not securing.  Sure, you can use screws to locate, but pins do a better job.  Same for securing with a press-fit pin, it works, but you can't beat a good screw!
> 
> I'd have done 2 dowel pins in the bracket to locate the bracket and one tapped hole to secure the bracket.  Or, maybe one dowel pin for the 4-way locator and use a screw as a 2-way locator and securing device.  You'd be less likely to snap a drill bit than a tap; just lessens your chance of a problem having to thread 1 hole instead of 2.
> 
> Congrats on a great save!  If anyone notices it, they're probably up to no good.  I'd heard it multiple times from the Toolmakers at my former workplace:  The sign of a good machinist is how well he/she can hide their F-ups.
> 
> Just in case you haven't seen them, spiral-flute taps are great for blind holes as they drive the chip up and out of the hole like a drill bit.  Spiral-point taps are better for through-holes as they drive the chip down.
> 
> Great looking lathe, you should be proud!
> 
> Bruce
> 
> 
> Spiral-flute tap for blind holes
> View attachment 419291
> 
> Spiral-point tap for through holes
> View attachment 419292


Yeah... I got the second tap on your reply... not the spiral flute tap...  I will get some spiral flute taps.    I did what you described for the first thread... then, on the second one, I got greedy... thinking I got it down... instead of following what I did in the first one, take it slow, one or two turns at a time, getting the tap out cleaning and going at it again... so there is nobody to blame but me.

Wish I could say, live and learn... but I know my impatience will get the best of me again in the future...


----------



## mattthemuppet2

for the smaller sizes spiral point taps are better if tapping by hand as spiral point are always stronger than spiral flute. Although they push the taps down into the hole you can simply drill deeper than your desired tap depth giving the chips somewhere to go. Sometimes I tap most of a blind hole with a spiral point, blow out the chips with compressed air and then finish with a spiral flute. Once you get above 10-32, it doesn't make much difference.


----------



## wachuko

Okay, with the scales installed and working... figured I would find out what RPM sensor works with TouchDRO and add that as well...  To avoid having to add an additional display...

Looking again at the gear setup, there seems to be enough space for a magnet and the sensor/reader... with the wiring going out the back and avoiding issues with gears chewing up the wiring... yeah, I think this can be done... let me go read of what sensors I can use with what I have...

I am working from old photos... the switch is now on its stock location... so there is even more space in that area.  The angle bracket is not there... maybe, even if it is a long bracket, I can reuse the thread holes for installing the sensor...


----------



## wachuko

NOS chucks arrived!  Atlas chuck was in its original box and wax paper with all the cosmoline from the factory…. WD-40 to the rescue… but still need to take it apart to clean.  This was just for the photos…







The Bison chuck is massive!!! this one also came in its original packaging…but there was no cosmoline… the photo is as it came out of the plastic bag it was in…

I think the 4-jaw Atlas will be used more…6-jaw will be used more often than the Bison as well…


----------



## Shiseiji

Vices are nice!

R


----------



## wachuko

Shiseiji said:


> Vices are nice!
> 
> R


Yes, specially that Atlas… thin like the originals…

On the Bison,  I need to figure out how to machine the back register… it is way larger that it needs to be…


----------



## Shiseiji

I looked back to see if you mentioned your tacho sensor, sorry if I missed it. I mounted mine under the cover using a bracket similar to an alternator/generator arm. My sensor is optical, I painted the very end of the spindle just before it leaves the headstock and added a line. I've read of lots of lathe owners super gluing a magnet to the spindle for a magnetic pick-up, but I have awful luck with supergule, regardless of the quality of the product. 

Ron


----------



## Shiseiji

Shiseiji said:


> Vices are nice!
> 
> R


I have contracted Covid, so please chalk up any more stupid than usual remarks, "vise" vs. chuck, to fatigue. On antiviras, other than tired am recovering well.


----------



## wachuko

Shiseiji said:


> I looked back to see if you mentioned your tacho sensor, sorry if I missed it. I mounted mine under the cover using a bracket similar to an alternator/generator arm. My sensor is optical, I painted the very end of the spindle just before it leaves the headstock and added a line. I've read of lots of lathe owners super gluing a magnet to the spindle for a magnetic pick-up, but I have awful luck with supergule, regardless of the quality of the product.
> 
> Ron


I am still trying to find a Hall effect sensor to connect to the TouchDRO…. I might just take the easy path and use the same one I used for the 9x20 with its own display…. I would love to use this type of sensor as it seems to be better protected from the elements…


----------



## Shiseiji

wachuko said:


> Yes, specially that Atlas… thin like the originals…
> 
> On the Bison,  I need to figure out how to machine the back register… it is way larger that it needs to be…
> 
> View attachment 419801
> 
> View attachment 419802


Did you see the recent comments on spindle registers on Scott's forum?  He has a table on his site listing the more common spindle lengths and register widths, but not SB which is close but will bottom out on the spindle nose before contacting the register. Meaning be cautious how much you remove. I'm pretty sure the Buck chuck that came with my 820 is bottoming out, need to confirm one way or the other once I have the lathe set back up.


----------



## wachuko

Shiseiji said:


> I have contracted Covid, so please chalk up any more stupid than usual remarks, "vise" vs. chuck, to fatigue. On antiviras, other than tired am recovering well.


No worries.  I understood what you meant.

Hope you feel better soon.

I am here recovering from dental surgery and just pushing through the pain with some Advil because I do not like how Percocet makes me feel…. Only thing that I can do is take photos and plan the next mods for when I can get back in the garage


----------



## wachuko

Shiseiji said:


> Did you see the recent comments on spindle registers on Scott's forum?  He has a table on his site listing the more common spindle lengths and register widths, but not SB which is close but will bottom out on the spindle nose before contacting the register. Meaning be cautious how much you remove. I'm pretty sure the Buck chuck that came with my 820 is bottoming out, need to confirm one way or the other once I have the lathe set back up.


I have the originals to compare to.  I can measure how much to take out… my concern is how to make the modification without messing up the chuck…


----------



## Shiseiji

wachuko said:


> I am still trying to find a Hall effect sensor to connect to the TouchDRO…. I might just take the easy path and use the same one I used for the 9x20 with its own display…. I would love to use this type of sensor as it seems to be better protected from the elements…
> 
> View attachment 419803



View attachment 419803

	

		
			
		

		
	
I stumbled across this tach when I was doing a project with an old Shop Smith project. What's nice is you can flip it to sf


wachuko said:


> No worries.  I understood what you meant.
> 
> Hope you feel better soon.
> 
> I am here recovering from dental surgery and just pushing through the pain with some Advil because I do not like how Percocet makes me feel…. Only things I can do is take photos and plan the next mods for when I can get back in the garage


Thanks. I have had too much dental, and get you 100%.


----------



## Shiseiji

wachuko said:


> I have the originals to compare to.  I can measure how much to take out… my concern is how to make the modification without messing up the chuck…


Unless it would radically change the overhang, myself if you have contact to the register it's good. 

Ron


----------



## Shiseiji

wachuko said:


> I am still trying to find a Hall effect sensor to connect to the TouchDRO…. I might just take the easy path and use the same one I used for the 9x20 with its own display…. I would love to use this type of sensor as it seems to be better protected from the elements…
> 
> View attachment 419803


Take a look at this: http://www.mkctools.com/tachulator.htm I had this from a ShopSmith project, and put it on the Logan when I had the VFD mounted. The sfm is nice.



There is also an open source tacho, formally commercial. IIRC, it's posted to thingverse. Electronics are not my thing so I haven't pursued it. I can dig it up if anyone is interested.

Ron


----------



## wachuko

Shiseiji said:


> Take a look at this: http://www.mkctools.com/tachulator.htm I had this from a ShopSmith project, and put it on the Logan when I had the VFD mounted. The sfm is nice.
> View attachment 419807
> 
> 
> There is also an open source tacho, formally commercial. IIRC, it's posted to thingverse. Electronics are not my thing so I haven't pursued it. I can dig it up if anyone is interested.
> 
> Ron


I have that link… first I will see if there is something already available that will just plug into the Arduino that I am using for the scales.


----------



## phubbman

To machine the register on that chuck (if you really want to go there), if you have a piece of hard rod an inch or more in diameter, you could mount it in your 4 jaw chuck with about 2 or 2-1/2” extending out.  Mount the three jaw to the rod (register surface facing the tailstock) and adjust the 4 jaw chuck (and possible using some light brass mallet taps) indicating against the register surface until it reads flat.  Then you could face off the register surface, reducing its overall length.  I would go easy with fairly light passes, even though it is cast iron.  

Or you could just use it as-is.


----------



## wachuko

phubbman said:


> To machine the register on that chuck (if you really want to go there), if you have a piece of hard rod an inch or more in diameter, you could mount it in your 4 jaw chuck with about 2 or 2-1/2” extending out.  Mount the three jaw to the rod (register surface facing the tailstock) and adjust the 4 jaw chuck (and possible using some light brass mallet taps) indicating against the register surface until it reads flat.  Then you could face off the register surface, reducing its overall length.  I would go easy with fairly light passes, even though it is cast iron.
> 
> Or you could just use it as-is.



I will give that a try.

I just want to get this massive chuck closer to the spindle.  Not comfortable with it sticking out so much.  So every little bit helps and I can get it, I think, a 1/4" closer by machining that side...


----------



## Shiseiji

wachuko said:


> I will give that a try.
> 
> I just want to get this massive chuck closer to the spindle.  Not comfortable with it sticking out so much.  So every little bit helps and I can get it, I think, a 1/4" closer by machining that side...


I've seen a research paper on chatter claiming distance from the headstock was immaterial. Friend Winky on YouTube reduced his significantly by reducing the chuck overhang. Pick your source. 

Ron


----------



## Shiseiji

wachuko said:


> I am still trying to find a Hall effect sensor to connect to the TouchDRO…. I might just take the easy path and use the same one I used for the 9x20 with its own display…. I would love to use this type of sensor as it seems to be better protected from the elements…


Just remembered. I replaced a eBike motor Hall sensor with one from Amazon. The actual sensor is small, would easily fit in a shop made holder. 
This is the sensor from the MK Tools kit, I didn't do anything to protect it. Never had a problem.


----------



## phubbman

wachuko said:


> I will give that a try.
> 
> I just want to get this massive chuck closer to the spindle.  Not comfortable with it sticking out so much.  So every little bit helps and I can get it, I think, a 1/4" closer by machining that side...


it‘s what I did to the backplate I recently installed on a 6” chuck for my Logan. It turned out just fine.  After shortening the stub (for the same reasons you mentioned) I mounted the back plate on the spindle and took a light cut across its face to ensure the register surface and mounting surface were co planer


----------



## wachuko

Backplate almost done… I just need to drill and tap the three missing holes…




I need a longer cable for the tablet…  I want to be able to place the tablet on the belt cover... cable ordered.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Nice! Looks like it belongs there


----------



## wachuko

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Nice! Looks like it belongs there


Yes!  Looks like the perfect size for this lathe.  Thanks again.

I need to get used to the DRO... but even more than that, to learn and think about what I read from the dials or the DRO and what that means in terms of the amount of cutting that I am doing.  

I only needed to remove a very small amount for the chuck to fit the backplate.  So I was taking very small cuts... it did not click for me why I was taking a 0.020 inch cut and seeing a decrease of 0.040 inch...  Silly, even stupid of me... geez... Think Jaime! Think!! You are cutting a circle... not a flat surface!  Oh well, I did hit the mark thanks to making small cuts and measuring after every cut... Only after finishing that it clicked on me what I was seeing...  yeah, I am a slow learner...


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Some DROs have a radius vs diameter function, where you can change it to read the change in diameter of the part. I just do the math in my head


----------



## wachuko

First time using this transfer punch set.  Worked great.







Holes and threads done...








And went the lazy route and got an rpm display with sensor... will place it all on the belt cover.


----------



## Aaron_W

Transfer punch, and they are handy. I have a set that screws in as well to mark the corresponding holes for threaded things.


----------



## wachuko

Aaron_W said:


> Transfer punch, and they are handy. I have a set that screws in as well to mark the corresponding holes for threaded things.


Transfer punch! Previous post corrected.

I have a set of the ones that screw in...In just one size.  I used those on another project based on a recommendation here in the forum!  Luckily, this backplate had three threaded holes and it was easier to just use the transfer punch for marking the other holes needed.


----------



## Aukai

I just bought a Spellman set of blind hole spotters, I'm hoping I have enough sizes. The transfer punch sets seem to have a little wobble to them, and it makes me nervous about how much that effects the hole location.


----------



## Ben17484

wachuko said:


> First time using this transfer punch set. Worked great.
> 
> View attachment 421581
> 
> 
> View attachment 421582
> 
> 
> Holes and threads done...
> 
> View attachment 421577
> 
> View attachment 421578
> 
> View attachment 421579
> 
> 
> And went the lazy route and got an rpm display with sensor... will place it all on the belt cover.
> 
> View attachment 421580



Nice job. Very cool 

That’s a cool looking vice on your drill press. Is there a name for that type of vice? I’ve got a pretty crappy drill press and I find it a nightmare getting a vice on there that works well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wachuko

Ben17484 said:


> Nice job. Very cool
> 
> That’s a cool looking vice on your drill press. Is there a name for that type of vice? I’ve got a pretty crappy drill press and I find it a nightmare getting a vice on there that works well.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Float lock vise.  You can buy it or make one… I made that one with plans shared by Mr. Pete…

Give me a moment and I will share video and plans link…


----------



## wachuko

@Ben17484 - here you go:

Mr. Pete's



			https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6HIFled82YXs81CUkvQ7nq-ysUdVPsi_
		


Also including the link to Blondihacks as she made it with a different handle and also shared a mistake that was made in the plans... plus she made the ACME threaded rod... where Mr. Pete (and me) used an already made threaded rod...






Attached are the plans...


----------



## Ben17484

wachuko said:


> @Ben17484 - here you go:
> 
> Mr. Pete's
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6HIFled82YXs81CUkvQ7nq-ysUdVPsi_
> 
> 
> 
> Also including the link to Blondihacks as she made it with a different handle and also shared a mistake that was made in the plans... plus she made the ACME threaded rod... where Mr. Pete (and me) used an already made threaded rod...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attached are the plans...



Amazing - thanks @wachuko

I’ll add this to my (ever growing!) list of projects. Looks very useful 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## wachuko

Installed the Eccentric Engineering diamond cutter… just playing around with some scrap that I have…


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## wachuko

What happens when I don’t think things through, lol

Here I made a bracket for the RPM sensor… kind of proud of how it turned out… that is, until I tried to close the gear cover… hahahahhaha









Back to the drawing table…


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## WhyW8

Glad to see I'm not the only one that makes these kinds of mod's - perfection by trial


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## Steve-F

Jaime, How are you holding up in the hurricane, is it affecting where you are?


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## wachuko

Steve-F said:


> Jaime, How are you holding up in the hurricane, is it affecting where you are?


Steve, thank you for asking.  We were fortunate that in Orlando there was very little damage.  In our case, we never lost power and no damage in this area.  All is well.  But lots of flash flooding going around... we will stay put for the next few days until all settles down. 

The other side of the storm will be impacting us all day, but now it is just a tropical storm.  Still, lots of water coming down and still some strong winds that it is impacting workers that are helping with restoring power to those impacted.

Can't say the same for Naples, Fort Myers, Sanable, etc... that south-west part of Florida really suffered... very sad situation there...


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## Steve-F




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## wachuko

Second backplate arrived.  Machined, mounted, and zeroed in…




And yes, this chuck came with a backplate… There was no need for this… I just wanted both to look the same…

Also ordered 12 - 1/4”-20 bolts to replace those in there… these are the ones that secure the chuck to the backplate…

Seeing different colored bolt heads was messing with me    Kind of silly, because the workbench is a mess but that does not bother me, lol…


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## Shiseiji

Looking good Jamie! Glad to hear the weather passed you by. I worked in Defense Support of Civil Authority '02 -'05. Weather events are often devastating and life changing.


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## wachuko

A pending task is rewiring the switch so that reverse works... but I keep asking myself, and now to all of you, should I do that??  

This is a screw-in chuck setup... no way to lock it in place.  Will I ever need the chuck to go in reverse and risk unscrewing itself?  Should I just leave it as it is now.  

Specially knowing that I have the G0709 lathe with the D1-5 system...


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## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> A pending task is rewiring the switch so that reverse works... but I keep asking myself, and now to all of you, should I do that??
> 
> This is a screw-in chuck setup... no way to lock it in place.  Will I ever need the chuck to go in reverse and risk unscrewing itself?  Should I just leave it as it is now.
> 
> Specially knowing that I have the G0709 lathe with the D1-5 system...


Does your chuck have any clamps to the spindle?  My G0752Z has clamps from the back plate that grab a groove ring in the spindle.  I can and have turned threads in reverse.  I made the back plate of my ER-40 chuck that way. ( Inside threads made in reverse.)  If there are clamps you should be mostly protected.  With no clamps you are probably ok.  Depends on how tightly the back plate locks up.  When I have removed the back plate it has always been a bit tough to get it to start to unscrew.  Never had the clamps actually be needed, but perhaps that's just luck.


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## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> Does your chuck have any clamps to the spindle?  My G0752Z has clamps from the back plate that grab a groove ring in the spindle.  I can and have turned threads in reverse.  I made the back plate of my ER-40 chuck that way. ( Inside threads made in reverse.)  If there are clamps you should be mostly protected.  With no clamps you are probably ok.  Depends on how tightly the back plate locks up.  When I have removed the back plate it has always been a bit tough to get it to start to unscrew.  Never had the clamps actually be needed, but perhaps that's just luck.



My 9"x20" has that clamp... but this Logan does not.  That is why I am reluctant to correct the switch to enable Reverse...


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## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> My 9"x20" has that clamp... but this Logan does not.  That is why I am reluctant to correct the switch to enable Reverse...
> 
> View attachment 422182


Biggest question is about the lockup of the back plate to the spindle.  If it locks up tight, you are probably good.  If you can loosen the seated back plate and spin it off by hand, then yeah, I wouldn't run it in reverse very often.  My back plates lock up tight to the spindle.  They are tough to remove.  In a pinch I'd forgo the clamps.  A "loose lock up", no way I'd do that.  If your back plates don't lock up, they are usable, but they really should lock up so they register correctly to spindle.  At least that's my understanding.


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## WhyW8

Having reverse might be handy when you are using collets in your spindle attachment..


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## Jimsehr

matthewsx said:


> Put it on there and see if it becomes obvious.





wachuko said:


> Okay... details on the mystery piece...
> 
> Dimensions: 1-5/8"x4-3/8"x12-1/8"
> Setup to be place instead of the carriage/cross slide.  Has adjusters for the gib and a nut to be able to move in and out once installed...
> 
> View attachment 414363
> View attachment 414364
> 
> View attachment 414369
> 
> View attachment 414365
> 
> View attachment 414366
> 
> View attachment 414367
> 
> View attachment 414368


Looks like a production cross slide that is home made. I started production machining in 1953 on a brand new 11 inch Logan with production slide and 6 position turret. I now own 3 11 inch Logans and use production slide most of the time. I have a couple spare production slides one fits a 11 inch Logan and one fits a I think 12 inch Logan. Logan made 2 types of production slides one is operated using the lathe cross slide nut and the other type had it’s own base With a handle and once set only went from front to back on the lathe it had a stop in each direction. I think the production slide fit both the 10 and 11 inch lathes. I have been told that production slides are more ridgit thus less chatter?
I’m posting pics of slide with front and back tool posts. 

Also posting pic of rubberflex collet closer that collets stock from 1/16 dia too 1 and 1/16 dia. material. With the 10 inch machine you can only hold short pieces of stock but with the 11 machine stock can go thru spindle. 
 Jimsehr


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## Jimsehr

With collets I don’t worry about threading in reverse.


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## wachuko

Thank you for sharing the information and photos!! Cool!


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## Bi11Hudson

wachuko said:


> A pending task is rewiring the switch so that reverse works... but I keep asking myself, and now to all of you, should I do that??
> 
> This is a screw-in chuck setup... no way to lock it in place.  Will I ever need the chuck to go in reverse and risk unscrewing itself?  Should I just leave it as it is now.
> 
> Specially knowing that I have the G0709 lathe with the D1-5 system...


When you *do need* reverse, rare as it may be, is when you realize that you should have done it when . . . I am not a machinist as such, but winding small solenoid coils does come up occasionally. With the machine in reverse, I can easily watch how the wire lays on its' spool. There are other situations where torque isn't very high and reverse makes work easier. Rare, but they do come up occasionally. My machine has a screw on chuck (both of 'em) but I avoid doing cutting and the like. Neither machine (Grizzly or C'man) has the latching clamp to prevent unscrewing. I may make one, if I ever face hard machining. I don't anticipate any such coming up, but what the future holds. . . 

.


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## Jimsehr

Aaron_W said:


> Before you buy anything verify that your spindle is actually a true MT3. My lathe is an 11" with a 1" bore and has what I thought was an MT4, but it is an odd ball, close but not quite an MT4. This may not be an issue on real Logans as mine is from the Powermatic / Logan era.
> 
> As far as the wooden handle, if only you had a classic Delta wood lathe to turn that on...


11 inch Logans have 2 different spindle tapers. Logan site can tell you the one you need by serial number. If you don’t find it call Scott Logan. Some have a Morse taper some have a Logan taper.


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## Jimsehr

wachuko said:


> The shame, the shame, the shame...  but I will share it anyway...   So I secure this stock in the vise... I get the largest cutter I have, 3/4" 4-flute end mill... I am saying in my mind... I have a Wells-Index... this puppy is going to eat this like there is no mañana...  So I go for a single cut of all the material that needs to be removed...  And to top it off, I start cutting in the wrong direction... yeah, climb milling instead of conventional... So the end mill digs into the side of the part and the machine stops... I hit the E-Stop.... and I am just going "you stupid F****!!!"  You had to try to do this in one pass instead of several cuts, and on top of that, you forget the proper direction to cut it from"  Arrggggghhhh....
> 
> But wait... it gets better... You would think that I would have checked to see if the vise moved with all this... But nooooooo...  Instead I removed the 4-flute end mill, well, because in the process I broke one of the flutes... Install a new one and continue the work...
> 
> A complete mess... I figure all this is wrong when I remove the part and test fit it to the compound... goodness...
> 
> So I swallow my pride, after finding it, and proceed to fix the vise....
> 
> View attachment 416248
> 
> 
> Then to square the cuts on the top...
> 
> View attachment 416250
> 
> 
> And mill the length to correct dimension..
> 
> View attachment 416251
> 
> 
> Now, I do not have any more material here... all that is back in Orlando... so I just continue to try to at least square the cuts made...   All goes well from this point on but the top of the T-Nut ends up smaller than in needs to be... duh!
> 
> 
> View attachment 416249
> 
> 
> So now I am thinking... do I leave it as is?  Do I redo the part?  Not sure what to do...  It was going so well until I got greedy trying to remove material... what a dumba***....
> 
> View attachment 416253


WARNING ! The top of t-nut should be a little below surface of Logan part. If not l
have seen tool post move under cutting pressure. Can be dangerous if tool breaks. I would make it about 1/32 below lathe surface. This is after the t-nut is lifted up by the tool post bolt.


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## wa5cab

The only time that I can think of when you will have to have reverse working on your spindle is using a tool post grinder on the OD of a part..  If you don't have a tool post grinder, I don't think that you really need reverse working.


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## Jimsehr

One time reverse is nice is if you are power tapping and you have to back the tap out.
jimsehr


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## Jimsehr

It’s nice to use reverse when power tapping.


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## wachuko

Keeping the updates here... 

RPM display




Longer power cable to the TouchDRO screen so I can place it on top of the belt cover.




Was able to find a spot where the sensor can be installed without interfering with anything... Held in place with 3M VHB double face tape for now... will pour just a bit of JB-Weld to play it safe...  Gears door closes without issues.  




All wiring neatly tucked away... will replace those with black nylon tie-wraps later...




Everything secured with 3M VHB double face tape... so I can raise and lower the belt cover without issues or anything falling off... 






Set screw on the wrench to avoid it falling off...


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## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> Keeping the updates here...
> 
> RPM display
> 
> View attachment 423040
> 
> 
> Longer power cable to the TouchDRO screen so I can place it on top of the belt cover.
> 
> View attachment 423038
> 
> 
> Was able to find a spot where the sensor can be installed without interfering with anything... Held in place with 3M VHB double face tape for now... will pour just a bit of JB-Weld to play it safe...  Gears door closes without issues.
> 
> View attachment 423042
> 
> 
> All wiring neatly tucked away... will replace those with black nylon tie-wraps later...
> 
> View attachment 423043
> 
> 
> Everything secured with 3M VHB double face tape... so I can raise and lower the belt cover without issues or anything falling off...
> 
> View attachment 423044
> 
> View attachment 423045
> 
> 
> Set screw on the wrench to avoid it falling off...
> 
> View attachment 423039


can you tell me more about the tablet you are using and the mount it is on?


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## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> can you tell me more about the tablet you are using and the mount it is on?


Tablet is so old that I doubt is still for sale… but I will check.

Tablet mount - link


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## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> Tablet is so old that I doubt is still for sale… but I will check.
> 
> Tablet mount - link


link won't open for me, i presume it is on amazon, what is the name of it and i will look it up thanks sir


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## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> link won't open for me, i presume it is on amazon, what is the name of it and i will look it up thanks sir


Oh… yes Amazon… let me know if this helps…





And I could not find the tablet…at the time it was the most inexpensive android tablet that I could find…


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## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> Oh… yes Amazon… let me know if this helps…
> 
> View attachment 423084
> 
> 
> 
> And I could not find the tablet…at the time it was the most inexpensive android tablet that I could find…


awesome thanks, was thinking about going the TouchDRO route on the lathe


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## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> Oh… yes Amazon… let me know if this helps…
> 
> View attachment 423084
> 
> 
> 
> And I could not find the tablet…at the time it was the most inexpensive android tablet that I could find…


which scales did you end up using?


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## phubbman

I put a reversing switch on mine.  I have only used it when cutting metric threads (can’t disengage the half nuts, so you reverse the motor to move the carriage back to position to start the next cut). It’s running at the slowest speed without any load.  The chuck won’t unscrew from the spindle in those circumstances.  

the other option would be to hand crank the spindle in reverse to move the carriage back, but reversing the motor is much more convenient


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## wachuko

phubbman said:


> I put a reversing switch on mine.  I have only used it when cutting metric threads (can’t disengage the half nuts, so you reverse the motor to move the carriage back to position to start the next cut). It’s running at the slowest speed without any load.  The chuck won’t unscrew from the spindle in those circumstances.
> 
> the other option would be to hand crank the spindle in reverse to move the carriage back, but reversing the motor is much more convenient


I think that this alone will make me want it working in both directions...   Thank you.  I will need to figure out how to wire it correctly.


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## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> which scales did you end up using?


Sorry for the delayed response...

I had these since 2015 when I bought them to do the install on the G0704 milling machine... So there might be better alternatives today.  Best to check Yuriy's website for updated recommendations.

I never did install them on that mill since I went with a CNC conversion (that I have not finished).... So just used what I had...  Used the 24" without modifications... that was enough to cover the travel...   But the 12" I had to cut to size...

iGaging 12" Magnetic Remote Digital Readout - cut to 11-1/2" - the bar actually measures 16"...
iGaging 24" Magnetic Remote Digital Readout - used as is without modifications... the bar actually measures 28-1/2"
iGaging 24" Magnetic Remote Digital Readout - still have it for whatever other project comes along


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## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> Sorry for the delayed response...
> 
> I had these since 2015 when I bought them to do the install on the G0704 milling machine... So there might be better alternatives today.  Best to check Yuriy's website for updated recommendations.
> 
> I never did install them on that mill since I went with a CNC conversion (that I have not finished).... So just used what I had...  Used the 24" without modifications... that was enough to cover the travel...   But the 12" I had to cut to size...
> 
> iGaging 12" Magnetic Remote Digital Readout - cut to 11-1/2" - the bar actually measures 16"...
> iGaging 24" Magnetic Remote Digital Readout - used as is without modifications... the bar actually measures 28-1/2"
> iGaging 24" Magnetic Remote Digital Readout - still have it for whatever other project comes along


yeah, he says they will work, but he gets more complaints from ppl that are using that style, then the glass or magnetic


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## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> yeah, he says they will work, but he gets more complaints from ppl that are using that style, then the glass or magnetic



I did not wanted these to go to waste... plus I had everything working with them since back in 2015 I also built the arduino controller... 

You have the advantage of 7 years of development and more options


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## wachuko

New bolts on the 6-jaw chucks...




And just for fun, a video testing the tachometer/RPM display...


----------

