# Best bang for buck  metal lathe .. price range $1,200-$2,000



## customchris

I really don't want to make the wrong choice when buy my first lathe 

* I need it to turn a 16"x 1" 1/2  aluminum round bar
* I would like 1" 1/2 bore ( would make life easier but not a must)
* I only have 220v to my shop
* My limit is 2,000 for lathe, tooling and ex...
* need to be able to do production with it

I want any suggestion on lathes you guys may have Thanks so much for your guys help. I have till next month to find one to buy..  I have been looking at grizzly but open to anything


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## Mark in Indiana

I won't go into brands, but I suggest the following:
1. Look up craigslist ads in your area and surrounding larger cities to see what the "market" says what a lathe should go for. EBay is a good reference but I think it's spread out too far to be accurate.
2. Find some used equipment dealers around you. You may have to travel some, but those guys have a wealth of knowledge.
3. Before you go out, look up some YouTube videos on what to look for when buying a lathe.
4. Keep in mind that tooling can cost more than the initial purchase of your lathe. If you have to pay a little more for a turn key deal, go for it.
5. Be patient! The economy is still in the tank and a lot of guys need to unload their toys...but bad times won't last forever.


Good luck.


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## customchris

I did find this Clausing Lathe for $1000 But not knowing much about metal Lathes I don't want junk that I have to restore. I just want it to work and I don't want a project.
 I don't Have alot of money I need this to work out right.



http://images.craigslist.org/00v0v_bgrNthIfmOC_600x450.jpg
Here is all the add say '' Geared head , tool post holder, coolant pump and it every thing works ''

This one also
http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/4816835958.html


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## chuckorlando

Well if it works well, you wont buy anything half that good for 3-4k let alone 1-2


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## Ebel440

A lathe that size will most likely be three phase that means you need to figure in converting your 220 with the price your looking to spend


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## compsurge

I assume 16" x 1-1/2" is length x diameter? Lathes are measured in swing x length, so your measurements would make quite the difference 

Are you gunsmithing?

The South Bend Heavy 10 (10L) is a 1-3/8" center bore, so that's likely out. I got mine fully outfitted (tooling galore, chucks, collet set, etc.) in your price range.

If you find a three phase 220V motor, you can run a 220V VFD inline to run the lathe on single phase 220V. 3 phase motors run very, very smooth and are a great thing on a lathe (surface finish improvements and easy variable speed to name a few). A good VFD would be easy to find under $250-350. Consider a lathe with a 220V three phase motor a "win". Wiring is easy and there are plenty of YouTube videos available.

The Clausing you posted could be a nice one. If the gears look in good shape and it doesn't have any appreciable wear, it's likely a steal as long as it was maintained. Don't be put off by bed wear if you find it, it doesn't have as much an effect as you might expect. It looks like it could be a Clausing Colchester 13x40 based on a (very) quick eBay search. Sometimes, machine "looseness" is exactly that - it's loose. Check for tightness of gibs, cross slide leadscrew nut, etc.


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## 18w

I ran one of those for a number of years. 7 1/2 hp. 3ph. so you would need  about a 10 hp rotary phase converter. Large spindle bore, about 2 1/2 in.IIRC. D1-6 camloc chuck. And very expensive almost unobtanium Gamet spindle bearings. Make sure you have this machine inspected by a knowledgeable person. That is a really low price for this model of Clausing. Tooling starts to get spendy when you get into this size and quality of machine. A very capable machine. You said production so if you expound a little maybe some one here may have some suggestions for the type and size machine you need.

Regards
Darrell


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## stupoty

What sort of production were you thinking of? Lots of repeat parts or one of/repair type stuff?

Stuart


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## customchris

I just want to be able to make these tool handles over and over .. Thats It I just want to make the handles and sell them ... they are wood turning handles  I really only want to spend 1500 but I could go 2000 if I have to.


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## Ebel440

It's going to take a lot of work to make those on a lathe like that due to the taper.


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## compsurge

Have you gotten it quoted from a CNC shop to see what the cost would be in comparison?


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## chuckorlando

Well most any lathe can turn that. If your open to used, go look at the one you posted. If not then the 10x22 or 11x26 griz or a pm 10x22 but I dont see any prices on their machines.


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## 18w

If that is your only use then get a quote from a cnc shop as mentioned previously. Other option is a lathe with a duplicating attachment. Depends on if this is for enjoyment or profit. If you are trying to make those for profit and are expecting to make huge amounts cnc is the only way to go for this project.


Darrell


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## chuckorlando

Why cant you do it in two opps? Off set the tail stock to turn the taper then do the rest? Or make it in 3 pieces. I might be missing the scale. They look little to me


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## 18w

Chuck, two tapers, one long and one short, steps with shoulders and hole bored in the end. ( looks like to me any way) Yes it could be done, manually... at a profit...no way. Too many different setups.

Darrell


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## customchris

chuckorlando said:


> Why cant you do it in two opps? Off set the tail stock to turn the taper then do the rest? Or make it in 3 pieces. I might be missing the scale. They look little to me


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## compsurge

That looks very nice! I have some custom holders to make for my dad (he wants some unique offsets for doing interior carving).

One question that is more for my edification: how does the aluminum handle perform under use? Does it get slippery with sweat or is it a rougher surface finish that allows for a good grip?


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## customchris

I have not had any problems with it slipping .. I think it works like a waxed floor its smooth but not really slippery. I love mine a alot of my subscribers want one so I am going to make them and sell them for about 50 bucks a piece .. Most I have seen are $75.  I think I will have about 14 bucks in aluminum. If I can do it in hour I can make a profit.


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## 18w

Chris, if you can make a profit making them in a hour you should be happy to know that with practice you can make them much faster. It is all in how you choose the steps to machine them. Do not think in terms of doing one at a time from start to finish. Do all of the pieces one step at a time. Since you will have a little wiggle room in your tolerances re chucking the parts won't be a issue. For example face and drill all of the parts in one batch, things like that. Remember a cnc shop could make these in about 3 minutes once programed. Still a thought to maximize profit. On the other hand buy yourself a lathe and  who knows you might come up with some other prototype of some kind as well. Didn't mean to discourage you, just wanted to give you some options and if you get a lathe you will be addicted.

Good luck
Darrell


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## Ebel440

I agree it's easy enough to make but not cost effective to be doing it that way unless they sell for a small fortune. How long would it take to do  everything vs what can you sell it for? Plus the material cost, I would guess you may have about 10$ each for that.


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## chuckorlando

I think a tracer attachment or cnc is the way to go at 50 bucks


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## darkzero

With your $2000 limit for the lathe & tooling, I think you'll definitely have to find something used & maybe then you still may not make that budget unless with minimal tooling. And with the 1-1/2" spindle bore & 220V requirements, you'll need to look at 12x & larger lathes. Most lathes smaller than that are 110V.

So your shop doesn't have 110V at all? That would be strange. I'm assuming you just don't have any more 110V outlets available?


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## customchris

darkzero said:


> With your $2000 limit for the lathe & tooling, I think you'll definitely have to find something used & maybe then you still may not make that budget unless with minimal tooling. And with the 1-1/2" spindle bore & 220V requirements, you'll need to look at 12x & larger lathes. Most lathes smaller than that are 110V.
> 
> So your shop doesn't have 110V at all? That would be strange. I'm assuming you just don't have any more 110V outlets available?




Ha ha ha I have the 110v outlets I just can't get any higher then 220v  I have a wood lathe now that is 110.. as for the spindle bore I just thought I could drill the tool shaft hole easier If I could put the stock back in the spindle and not have to us a steady rest. It probably would not take anymore time to use the steady rest ..  I am really looking at the g0572 but I am not shure I need the variable speed .. I could save about $450 if I got the G0602..  [h=1][/h]


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## compsurge

I am by far not an expert on the lathe, but it might be possible to chuck a drill in a collet on the head and use that to drill into your handle. You'd have to have a secure setup to do so - possibly some milling attachment with a vise. Anyone know if that is that possible or is it a bad idea?

One thing I noted on the G0752 is that according to the tech spec for it, it is a [the correct part is a Delta VFD - not a Toshiba Inverter as listed] with a 3 phase 1hp motor (http://cdn0.grizzly.com/specsheets/g0752_ds.pdf). One future option could be a CNC outfit for it, but you've already identified a possible shortcoming with the spindle bore. For a little more, you could get the G9972Z which is 11"x26", but it still has a 1" spindle bore. The PM-1127-VF has a 1-1/2" spindle bore. 

Have you gotten more information about that Craigslist $1000 lathe yet? That might be the ticket if it's a diamond in the rough. Maybe they don't know what it is and just need it gone!


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## customchris

compsurge said:


> I am by far not an expert on the lathe, but it might be possible to chuck a drill in a collet on the head and use that to drill into your handle. You'd have to have a secure setup to do so - possibly some milling attachment with a vise. Anyone know if that is that possible or is it a bad idea?
> 
> One thing I noted on the G0752 is that according to the tech spec for it, it is a [the correct part is a Delta VFD - not a Toshiba Inverter as listed] with a 3 phase 1hp motor (http://cdn0.grizzly.com/specsheets/g0752_ds.pdf). One future option could be a CNC outfit for it, but you've already identified a possible shortcoming with the spindle bore. For a little more, you could get the G9972Z which is 11"x26", but it still has a 1" spindle bore. The PM-1127-VF has a 1-1/2" spindle bore.
> 
> Have you gotten more information about that Craigslist $1000 lathe yet? That might be the ticket if it's a diamond in the rough. Maybe they don't know what it is and just need it gone!


 

I emailed the guy but nothing yet on that lathe


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## drom68

Something to think about, currently you have one piece you want to make.  In a few months to a year you will have other ideas and pieces to make.  Look beyond the current requirement and find a lathe that will work for you in the long run.  It is addicting and you can make money with a lathe.


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## rbertalotto

Perfect project for a copy lathe or CNC. There is no way you can turn a real profit at $50 each. Material cost, replaceable tooling, wear and tear and labor will eat anything close to a profit.

But a fellow with a CNC in his garage, and the want to make a few $$ might be possible.

I was turning out these 17HMR bore guides on my manual lathe. Took me about 3 minutes each turning out a quantity of 12. About a half hours work. If I simply want to realize $30 an hour for my time, that puts them at about $1.50 for time, materials, replaceables.....I put it out to bid on the Practical Machinist Forum and I have an order of 100 coming in a day or two for $1.17 each! But even better than that, I had a Technical High School shop teacher call me and he would like to do it as a CNC shop project! $36 for materials (100) and no cost for labor! 36 cents each.....Kids get a win, teacher gets a low tolerance repeatable project, and I get a great price!


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## wnec65

customchris said:


> I did find this Clausing Lathe for $1000 But not knowing much about metal Lathes I don't want junk that I have to restore. I just want it to work and I don't want a project.
> I don't Have alot of money I need this to work out right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I was in business I owned 2 Clausing Colchester lathes, they were considered the Cadillac of lathes at the time. Five years ago I sold my 13 inch for $2500. Down sized in retirement and couldn't take it with me.  If I had the room I would still own it.


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## dave2176

For cutting the long taper check out Bill's catfish reaper http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...e-Catfish-Reaper-quot/page3?highlight=catfish about post 88. His idea should make it pretty simple to nibble away at the aluminum to quickly achieve the taper desired.

Question on those high HP Clausings. What is the power draw for one of those? Is 7-1/2 HP about 25 amps per leg on 220 or would it be the rating of the 10 HP rotary phase converter? Just seems like a lot of electricity cost with those.

Dave


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## customchris

dave2176 said:


> For cutting the long taper check out Bill's catfish reaper http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...e-Catfish-Reaper-quot/page3?highlight=catfish about post 88. His idea should make it pretty simple to nibble away at the aluminum to quickly achieve the taper desired.
> 
> Question on those high HP Clausings. What is the power draw for one of those? Is 7-1/2 HP about 25 amps per leg on 220 or would it be the rating of the 10 HP rotary phase converter? Just seems like a lot of electricity cost with those.
> 
> Dave




That would work great Thanks For that. That way will cut down on the time to make them a lot ..
I would have no way to move that big of a lathe.. it is about 1 ton I think..  plus I just don't need one that big for what I am using it for.. It is a good price tho


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## visenfile

Continued pursuit on ebay and craigslist suggests a threshold of $2K for a running US lathe stripped, and the same for used Chinese.  I have not touched any of these, but have looked at hundreds of ads. Here in Portland half way decent- appearing Chinese are snapped up for $2K (list price-at least they disappear from the ads).  And Atlas-Sears range from $1500-$3000 .  Most disappear.  I want a good, 13-40 minimum tooled lathe for $2500; ain't gonna happen for me.  But I wish you the best.


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## dave2176

customchris said:


> That would work great Thanks For that. That way will cut down on the time to make them a lot ..



I think I would set them up to do some steps in batches as well. For instance after cutting a batch to length, set the lathe to drill common bore diameters in groups. Being a wood turner you are probably aware of a pin chuck used by pen turners. I think I would try mounting a pin chuck I made in a MT collet mounted in the spindle. Slide the bore of the handle over the pin chuck and bring the live center up to support the end. If you used the turret tool post on a lathe like the G0602 you should be able to mount 4 tools and rotate it to quickly switch tools. Haven't decided if 4 tools would be enough to do the job. A QCTP would also be useful if the budget supports it.

(An expanding mandrel would work well in place of the pin chuck too.)

Dave


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## AR1911

I think I would be looking for a lathe with a taper attachment.
For the short, steep taper a hand-ground form tool might work. It could probably be made so that it could cut the long taper as well, doing most of the length in one setup.


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## compsurge

You can also make a taper attachment if the saddle will allow for it.


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## customchris

do you know of anyone making a taper attachment on the g0602  with pics or video


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## compsurge

I wasn't able to find any in a quick search. I don't know if the back chip guard would interfere, but taper attachments are very simple devices.

Here's some examples:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ceD8U-TgOH0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edZ8nmc6Vy4​
Basically two attachment points and a straight shaft with a bushing that is attached to the leadscrew on the cross slide


A tracer is a big difference. It works similarly, but it follows a contour and needs constant force (typically hydraulic) to press the cross slide against the trace shape. Keith Fenner has several videos of using a tracer attachment on his lathe on his YouTube channel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6d57HgTUm0


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