# granite dresser tops for a surface plate or for lapping?



## strantor (Jan 17, 2015)

I found a great deal on some granite top furniture; $60 for dressers with smooth granite tops. Went and had a look. The granite is in superb condition but the wood part is mildewed. I don't care about the wood. I would cut it up for fire wood. But I'm wondering if these granite plates made for furniture are made flat enough and straight enough to be an acceptable surface plate. They are only 1/2" thick but at this price i could afford 4, stacked together gives me a plate 2" thick, 36"x48" for $240. That's less than half the price of a b-grade, bottom of the barrel shars 36x48 surface plate. But would i be making a $240 mistake and then spending an additional $500+ on a REAL surface plate?

If the answer is "yes, it should work fine", then could i get away with less than 4 plates? How many would it take to get something that won't flex or sag?


----------



## Ebel440 (Jan 17, 2015)

I started to measure a 12" granite floor tile and I stopped when I got around .015 out of flat I'm sure it was much worse but I didn't keep going. It looked flat though. So unless you can inspect it somewhere you will never know how flat it is. I wouldn't spend my money on it plus with that thin material you have the problem of mounting it so it won't sag or change with the surface under it.


----------



## 18w (Jan 17, 2015)

Save your money. Ask yourself what tolerances do I want to work to and how big of a surface plate do I need. A 3'x4' surface plate would be on my wish list if I had the room but a 18"x24" has served my needs. A lapping surface and a inspection surface are two different animals. If you are lapping something like the sole of a wood plane for example, get yourself a thick piece of glass. If you have the luxury of space often times you can find a good deal on the larger plates on craiglist or auctions as most hobbyists don't have the room or want to deal with the weight.


Regards
Darrell


----------



## Uglydog (Jan 17, 2015)

Properly supported it would make a great bench and work space.
You aren't going to rebuild engines on her, but much of the work we do it'd be great.
Easy clean up. More durable than wood, and less expensive than steel.

Daryl
MN



strantor said:


> I found a great deal on some granite top furniture; $60 for dressers with smooth granite tops. Went and had a look. The granite is in superb condition but the wood part is mildewed. I don't care about the wood. I would cut it up for fire wood. But I'm wondering if these granite plates made for furniture are made flat enough and straight enough to be an acceptable surface plate. They are only 1/2" thick but at this price i could afford 4, stacked together gives me a plate 2" thick, 36"x48" for $240. That's less than half the price of a b-grade, bottom of the barrel shars 36x48 surface plate. But would i be making a $240 mistake and then spending an additional $500+ on a REAL surface plate?
> 
> If the answer is "yes, it should work fine", then could i get away with less than 4 plates? How many would it take to get something that won't flex or sag?


----------



## T Bredehoft (Jan 17, 2015)

Before you continue with the dresser tops, verify that they are granite, not marble, the usual stone for these. Granite's base mineral is quartz, as hard as glass, or harder, Marble's base mineral is calcite, softer than the dentine in teeth, another calcite mineral.


----------



## f350ca (Jan 17, 2015)

I wouldn't expect the top of a dresser to be particularly flat, but on stacking them. 4 layers of 1/2 inch thick sheets is 4 times stiffer than one layer as expected but a 2 inch thick sheet is 64 times stiffer. For bending the moment of inertia increases with the cube of the thickness.

Greg


----------



## Alan Douglas (Jan 17, 2015)

Even if the top is flat, the underside might not be.  If the centers don't touch, there's no extra rigidity from having more than one piece.  Or they might rock on each other.


----------



## kd4gij (Jan 17, 2015)

I use a 2'x2'x1" granite counter top. it is the higher grade not home depot. It is as flat as I can check. For hobby work it is fine. If you can find some does high end homes and officees you can get drops cheap. Mine was free.


----------



## yendor (Jan 18, 2015)

Check with a local Granite supplier of Kitchen Counters.

The cutouts from sinks can usually be had either very cheap or sometimes for free.

While they are clearly NOT surface plate grade material if you have nothing at the present they are great temporary solution until you can afford something better.


----------



## Oversight13 (Jan 19, 2015)

strantor said:


> I found a great deal on some granite top furniture; $60 for dressers with smooth granite tops. Went and had a look. The granite is in superb condition but the wood part is mildewed. I don't care about the wood. I would cut it up for fire wood. But I'm wondering if these granite plates made for furniture are made flat enough and straight enough to be an acceptable surface plate. They are only 1/2" thick but at this price i could afford 4, stacked together gives me a plate 2" thick, 36"x48" for $240. That's less than half the price of a b-grade, bottom of the barrel shars 36x48 surface plate. But would i be making a $240 mistake and then spending an additional $500+ on a REAL surface plate?
> 
> If the answer is "yes, it should work fine", then could i get away with less than 4 plates? How many would it take to get something that won't flex or sag?



The answer is that granite made for furniture/kitchens isn't nearly flat enough for even toolroom work. If you're strapped for cash, but are willing to drive, check out CraigsList for surface plates. Try to get a mid-grade (A, inspection) plate and a decent stand, preferably something with a calibration sticker on it, even if the cal is 20 years old. Your work will never be better than your base inspection plate. I managed to buy a 48"x72" inspection-grade plate for $450, with a stand, from a flea market, of all places. The unit weighed 4500 pounds, but it cost me more to move it than I paid for the rock. If you're close to major cities, it helps a lot. (I'm not close.)


----------



## TNDave (Jan 19, 2015)

I have the sink cutout from my kitchen I use.  It certainly is not inspection, or even toolroom grade, but close enough for most of the work I do.  I put an indicator on a surface gauge and ran it all over the plate, at different spacings of the indicator to the gauge base, and worst reading I got anywhere was less than 0.001".  I think that is pretty good for most hobby shop work.  I would like a better 18X24 one day (If I had room, a 24X36), but for now this is many, many times better than nothing!

I at one time was a design engineer for a company that built stone cutting and finishing equipment, and the way they work makes 35MM granite sheets pretty darned flat! Especially in any 24X24 area.

I would not expect 1/2" stuff to be very flat though.


----------



## ariscats (Jan 27, 2015)

TNDave said:


> I have the sink cutout from my kitchen I use.  It certainly is not inspection, or even toolroom grade, but close enough for most of the work I do.  I put an indicator on a surface gauge and ran it all over the plate, at different spacings of the indicator to the gauge base, and worst reading I got anywhere was less than 0.001".  I think that is pretty good for most hobby shop work.  I would like a better 18X24 one day (If I had room, a 24X36), but for now this is many, many times better than nothing!
> 
> I at one time was a design engineer for a company that built stone cutting and finishing equipment, and the way they work makes 35MM granite sheets pretty darned flat! Especially in any 24X24 area.
> 
> I would not expect 1/2" stuff to be very flat though.



It happened that i got a kitchen countertop about 45x45 cm 25mm thick,for 7 Euros.Mounted it on the  Airy points (3 insert adjustable
feet).Then the great question.How flat it really is.I had no means to verify it so i built a flatness assessment or measuring instrument
which i called an "epipedometro", a planes measurer.The epipedometro verified a maximum deviation from a true plane of+- 3μm. This
Is enough for me.It also happens that I am bedridden because of a foolish decision to ride standing on a wheeled office chair that resulted
in the inevitable fall.If there is any interest on the instrument,give me three or four days to stand up again and i will try to publish some
description an some pictures.
Ariscats


----------



## Bill Gruby (Jan 27, 2015)

You have my attention. I would love to see this instrument.

 "Billy G"


----------



## JimDawson (Jan 27, 2015)

I would be very interested in seeing it also.


----------



## David S (Jan 27, 2015)

That's three of us.

David


----------



## kd4gij (Jan 27, 2015)

Make it 4 I would like to see it also.


----------



## sgisler (Jan 27, 2015)

+1


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lornie McCullough (Jan 29, 2015)

+1..... Commenting to make sure I don't miss it when it gets posted.

Lornie


----------



## bpratl (Jan 29, 2015)

I have a 1.5" thick granite sink cut out, that is used to support my wife's plants, I think I'm going to check it out when she's not looking.


----------



## ariscats (Feb 11, 2015)

About ten days ago I promised a description of an instrument i made.
There was some response.So now i am again on my feet after a bad fall,
i proceed with some pictures and description.First the pictures.
View attachment 94711
View attachment 94710
View attachment 94713
View attachment 94712

              Pic 1                        Pic2                           Pic3                            Pic4

Picture 1 is the slab.It is a piece of Brasilian (i am told) granite.Also picture 2 is
the same slab with a Mahr 1μm comparator dial which was used for the calibra
tion, for scaling. Picture 3 is the underside with the 3 adjustable feet for the leveling.
The feet are 3 M10 inserts in 10mm holes drilled with an SD type hammer drill and
glued with Araldite two component epoxy.The 3 points are Airy points so the 
flexing of the slab is minimized.Picture 4 is one of the feet.Sorry for bad focus.Macro 
function of the camera was forgotten apparently.All pictures are reduced in size.

View attachment 94714
View attachment 94717
View attachment 94715
View attachment 94716

        Pict 5                        Pic 6                      Pic 7                               Pic 8
Picture 5 is the instrument.
It consists of Two aluminum trapezoidal sides separated and held by a piece of 25mmx32cm
angle Iron,and 2 round rods from an old printer.The one,12mm diameter, supports the
carriage with the dial indicator and a vertical adjustment slide mechanism.The other,10 mm dia
simply restrains the carriage assembly from rotating.Pic 6 is a side left view.
There is a mechanism consisting of a handle riding on top of the iron angle, a steel string with 
tightening spring and 2 rollers for moving the carriage with the least disturbance possible.
See Pic.7 top view.On the top there is a graduated ruler for the position of the carriage.
The total horizontal measuring span of the instrument is 27 cm.
On the bottom of the trapezoidal sides are 2 "ears". The left  carries 2 M6 screws and the right
one M6 screw for zeroing the instrument.
Pic 8 is a detail of the carriage.You can see a small arm that carries the sensing polished carbide
(or black diamond probably) directly under the center of the 12mm rod and also an adjusting
knob for the vertical position of the dial indicator,so the instrument can accommodate a range
of dial indicators,a very useful feature.





       Pic9                                   Pic 10                      Pic 11                          Pic12bad slab


             Pic13
The sequence of mesurment  is as follows.FIRST (Pic9) we zero left using the M6 screws.
Then we zero right (pic 10) using the single M5 screw. We repeat left and check.Rezero
if needed.The we move the slide by the handle and check deviation on dial indicator noting the 
distance of the slide by the graduated ruler on top.Pic 11 shows the indication at the middle of
the slab. There is a sagging of about two microns.I used a 10 micron dial indicator for this de
monstration But the actual calibration was made with  an 1μm dial comparator by Mahr and an
1μm microcator by KRIN Kirov (russian).Pic 12 shows another slab of black granite that is mediocre
with a sag of 30μm at the center.Of course is a matter of luck to find the perfect slab,I was probably
lucky.Pic 13 shows the worst case measurment (diagonal) of my slab.It is about 4μm max.Note
that  1μm is 0.04 tenths!!
There are many tests you can make with the EPIPEDOMETRO.In another thread i will describe how
I verified the straightness of the rods an any other questions that may arise,if i can.
Thank you for subscribing.
Ariscats


----------



## ariscats (Feb 11, 2015)

It looks that Pics 1 to 4 did not load, probably because of size restriction I 
try again





         Pic 1                           Pic2                                 Pic3                          Pic4



            Pic5

Hope it works


----------



## ariscats (Feb 11, 2015)

Pic6                             Pic7                     Pic8

So i hope all pictures are loaded
Thanks again
Ariscats


----------



## RJSakowski (Feb 11, 2015)

An interesting instrument.  It looks well thought out and well made. As I understand it, you zero your indicator at either support and traverse in a linear path from one support to the other, looking for any deviation.  Then you would move your gage to a different location and repeat the process.  Continuing this until you have surveyed the entire surface.  What kind of clearance do you have on your linear rail bearings and how does it affect the measurement process?  I will be interested in the follow up on determining the straightness of the rails.  

  Best regards,

  [FONT=&quot]Bob[/FONT]


----------



## Round in circles (Feb 11, 2015)

Alan Douglas said:


> Even if the top is flat, the underside might not be.  If the centers don't touch, there's no extra rigidity from having more than one piece.  Or they might rock on each other.



Not if you bed & bond them together with a very thin scrape coat of flexible rubberized floor cement . If the top one is out bond some " Plate "  glass on it,  Plate glass is the stuff big shop windows are made from , it is usually very flat if the size is 24 x 24 inches or so .

When it gets warmer I hope to be bedding /bonding  a 1/2" or more thick plate glass top on a / precast fine concrete pavement/sidewalk  slab that's 2 x2 foot square  x 2" thick


----------



## Round in circles (Feb 11, 2015)

ariscats said:


> It happened that i got a kitchen countertop about 45x45 cm 25mm thick,for 7 Euros.Mounted it on the  Airy points (3 insert adjustable
> feet).Then the great question.How flat it really is.I had no means to verify it so i built a flatness assessment or measuring instrument
> which i called an "epipedometro", a planes measurer.The epipedometro verified a maximum deviation from a true plane of+- 3μm. This
> Is enough for me.It also happens that I am bedridden because of a foolish decision to ride standing on a wheeled office chair that resulted
> ...



Was the chair ride fueled with Greek brandy ???  
If so I commiserate with you , for in my younger days I once woke up on camel thorn bush after my engine spent the afternoon getting fueled up on the popular local brand .


----------



## ariscats (Feb 11, 2015)

Yes Bob.You understood it well.After scanning a line noting indications,lets say,every 2 cm you move 
the instrument parallel to itself for 2 cm and repeat till you cover all the surface of the slab,
without rezeroing at the ends.Very quickly you have a matrix of measurments that is actually
a map of the surface with a "gain" on the Z axis of about 10.000 to 1(1cm to 1μm). It is very easy
and fast.To my opinion it is very important for an assessment of the quality of the surface, to have
a smooth transition from one point to another than the absolute peak of the deviations.As for your
other question,as i have mentioned,the carriage is an aluminum casting with an inserted bronze sli
ding bearing probably oilite type (permanent lubrication) but very fine and dense.The rod is stainless
steel precision ground.I did not made these components,they came from an old printer,as I noted
before,but i verified the precision of the group.To make clear how i did it,i will need to take some photos
but now is half past midnight in Greece it is snowing temp 2deg below zero(Celsius) and the
Eurogroup is in session to decide about the future of my country in the European Union.


 
 	 		 			:angry::talktogod:  		So allow me to take these Pictures tomorrow .Thank you for your nice comments.I will be back with more.
 Ariscats


----------



## ariscats (Feb 11, 2015)

For "Round in circles"
 The famous Greek poison is called OUZO and is renowned the world over.Unfortunately the fall
was because of a completely dump bad evaluation.


 	 		 			:angry:  		Any way everything is ok now except some aches here and there.

Thank you
Ariscats


----------



## Wreck™Wreck (Feb 11, 2015)

ariscats said:


> For "Round in circles"
> The famous Greek poison is called OUZO and is renowned the world over.Unfortunately the fall
> was because of a completely dump bad evaluation.
> 
> ...


I prefer Pastis (-: Bad things may happen either way


----------



## ariscats (Feb 12, 2015)

Wreck™Wreck said:


> I prefer Pastis (-: Bad things may happen either way



Have you been in Greece?
Ariscats


----------



## savarin (Feb 12, 2015)

If you can get 3 slabs of granite off cuts you could use the 3 face method to grind them flat using water and carborundum grit.
A on B, B on C, C on A and so on.
A simple test for flatness could be a triangle of aluminium with a steel ball on each corner and a dial gauge mounted in the centre.
Heres two I made earlier



Admittedly I use them for measuring the depth of curvature when grinding mirrors but they work very well for flatness.
If anyone is interested I can dig out the formulae to work out how deep (sagitta) is from the measurements.


----------



## ariscats (Feb 16, 2015)

Fig 1 1µm Comparator by IZMERON 

 The method for verifying the epipedometro using the facilities available,
including instruments and knowledge, is as follows.
Using a 1μm resolution dial comparator,mounted on a height gauge by an adapter i made



Fig 2 Dial ind on height comparator

I measured  the sagitta (bending) at the center and at intervals of 2cm along the length of the rod.This
is another rod for the demonstration. 
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 Fig 3 Measuring the straightness

The rod is supported on V blocks.The measurement was taken by rotating carefully the rod and noting the max deviation.
First measurements showed a sagitta of 4μm that is a deviation of 2μm from straightness. It may seem brutal,
but i bent the rod by hand pressure, mounted on the V blocks using soft pads in the V and very easily,after only 2 attempts
there was no sensible movement of the dial comparator needle,all along the length.The measurement is rather difficult.
Temp was 20o C but the slightest vibration from passing cars affects it though my cave is on concrete floor.
I will continue,if there is any interest.
Ariscats


----------



## savarin (Feb 16, 2015)

Yes please I am very interested.
I know what you mean regarding vibration as that and air currents both disturb my readings.


----------



## ariscats (Feb 17, 2015)

For savarin. Because the shop has central heating and is well insulated including double glass panels in the windows,
the remaining problem of vibrations is confronted by taking measurements late after midnight when traffic is
sparse.Any way taking measurements at 1μm level is very difficult with mechanical only means outside a metro
logy lab.Mind you,a micron is 0.04 tenths.But even a ten times uncertainty is enough for me.This is a hobby shop
after all.Probably my past training as a physicist has something to do with my love for precise measurements.
More photos will follow if you like so.
Ariscats


----------



## savarin (Feb 17, 2015)

I use the spherometers to get close then change over to Foucault and Ronchi tests.
Thats when I use a cloth tunnel to stop the air currents. Both those tests show the differing air temperatures as black waves wafting across the glass
More photos are always welcome.


----------



## 18w (Feb 17, 2015)

This thread has gone from some one finding a old broken down piece of furniture with a granite top to black waves wafting across glass and spherometers. Only on a hobbyist machinist forum.  Just kidding guys....ariscats that is a very interesting measurement system. I may have missed something but  is there deflection or sag and how do you allow for it when checking a surface.

Regards
Darrell


----------



## ariscats (Feb 18, 2015)

For Darrell .Thank you for your words and the kidding.It is normal,to my opinion, for friendly conversations to drift
around a little bit. Any way if there is a problem i will ask for the moderators to relocate, as appropriate.I did not
wanted to cannibalize the thread but there were some people subscribed to this, probably curious about the
epipedometro so i thought that this was the way for them to follow the discussion. As for the sagging now:




The bolt noted and the other one on the other side,are loosened just a bit an then using a punch as lever the rod is rotated slowly and the indicator
observed,verifying any Sag.If there is one(never observed to this day) you turn the rod only 90 degrees and verify against previous measurements.
Any suggestions for something better will be highly appreciated.
Thanks again.
Ariscats


----------



## ariscats (Feb 18, 2015)

To savarin. See some photos of a self referencing measurements conceptually close to spherometer ones.
	

		
			
		

		
	



using the height indicator.This is a photo on the cender of the slab.
	

		
			
		

		
	



and this one on the left side.It is 4 μm indicated(that is 0.16 tenths higher. 



this is the right side almost 2μm lower . Sorry for bad picture. Now just for a demo i measured a straight ruler class 2 accuracy 320 mm long
and the results are as follows:
	

		
			
		

		
	



Center


Left  13 μm deviation.


right, 25 μm deviation That is enough proof,to me, that the instrument measures something,at least.
In many years ago i attemptent to grind a mirror but i did not poses the required insistence to finish the job.
For the time I use a 115 mm Newtonian for occasional observation of planets mainly,from my balcony in city
Light pollution.Mainly for educating the young generation to the Mysteries of the heavens.At  the time both
Jupiter and Saturn are visible from my place early in the evenings.
Greetings
Ariscats


----------



## 18w (Feb 18, 2015)

Aricats, thank you for the pics and explanation. When I first looked at your measuring device it appeared longer than I believe it actually is. Hence my question about sag. It seemed the weight of the indicator and its mount could induce some sag when moved to the center of the rod. Obviously the clever way the mount is moved removing any external hand pressure takes away another variable. Very nicely done.
I really hope you saw my attempt to have a little fun at you and savarin's expense was just that.... good friendly fun. Nothing wrong with it being in this thread as far as I am concerned. 


Regards
Darrell


----------



## savarin (Feb 18, 2015)

No offense here mate, I just thought it was an exclamation of wonderment at how far this thread had spread.
As a lifelong digressor I'm used to going off at a tangent.
But continuing in the same vein we have traveled, when we measure optical flats for "flatness" we use another flat of known flatness and compare the interference bands they produce under monochromatic light. I have never done this. Yet.


----------



## ariscats (Feb 19, 2015)

to 18W No offense taken ,so no apologies needed Darrell.Hope that explanation was enough.Hope to see your Projects soon.
Ariscats


----------



## ariscats (Feb 19, 2015)

Savarin it happens that i have a good interest for optomechanical measuring devices.May be we have to open a 
new thread for discussing these.I am a little confused with the new software and i don't know how to open.So you are burdened with 
this difficult task taking the opportunity to present your projects,including photos of course.
Waiting impatiently
Ariscats


----------



## MARVIN GARDENS (Mar 9, 2015)

My knowledge level is minimal so please keep that in mind.  I went the Craigslist route and bought a Starrett 24" x 36" x 6" "A" Grade with Starrett table for $400.  It required ten hours of driving to get it home.  I purchased mine from an electronics design company.  The engineer I spoke to said that when the company formed, the lead engineer they hired insisted they buy the plate.  The engineer went on to say that they never purchased any other measuring equipment as they used CAD and sent the designs out for prototype work.  It was certified about eight years ago.  I couldn't see any marks or blemishes on the plate.  A friend has a mold shop nearby so I stopped by on the way home where he checked it out and said that with the measurements he could do, the plate did seem to be unused.

I watched eBay and Craigslist for about two years before running across this ad.  I must have been lucky that day because they said I called within ten minutes of the ad going up.  I was thinking of going the countertop route but kept hoping I would run across a real plate that I could afford.    Time wasn't a big factor for me as I am still gathering equipment from a list I started two years ago when I decided I wanted to start a machinist hobby in my garage.

Regards.

Bob


----------



## ariscats (Mar 9, 2015)

MARVIN GARDENS said:


> My knowledge level is minimal so please keep that in mind.  I went the Craigslist route and bought a Starrett 24" x 36" x 6" "A" Grade with Starrett table for $400.  It required ten hours of driving to get it home.  I purchased mine from an electronics design company.  The engineer I spoke to said that when the company formed, the lead engineer they hired insisted they buy the plate.  The engineer went on to say that they never purchased any other measuring equipment as they used CAD and sent the designs out for prototype work.  It was certified about eight years ago.  I couldn't see any marks or blemishes on the plate.  A friend has a mold shop nearby so I stopped by on the way home where he checked it out and said that with the measurements he could do, the plate did seem to be unused.
> 
> I watched eBay and Craigslist for about two years before running across this ad.  I must have been lucky that day because they said I called within ten minutes of the ad going up.  I was thinking of going the countertop route but kept hoping I would run across a real plate that I could afford.    Time wasn't a big factor for me as I am still gathering equipment from a list I started two years ago when I decided I wanted to start a machinist hobby in my garage.
> 
> ...


Well done Marvin.I was driven to the counter top solution because in Greece a good plate is absurdly expensive,probably because of the weight.Have fun
with your's.
Ariscats


----------



## savarin (Mar 9, 2015)

ariscats said:


> Savarin it happens that i have a good interest for optomechanical measuring devices.May be we have to open a
> new thread for discussing these.I am a little confused with the new software and i don't know how to open.So you are burdened with
> this difficult task taking the opportunity to present your projects,including photos of course.
> Waiting impatiently
> Ariscats




Hi Ariscats,
My current project is here  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/80mm-long-focal-length-refractor.26212/
but I never made the lenses.
The next one will be the 12" binoscope where I will grind and polish the glass and will show the equipment in that blog when I start it.
What I find so astounding is that a simple measuring system made with a couple of really cheap overflow store micrometers and some scrap can measure such tiny amounts. The magnet holds the razor blade or Ronchi screen, the wheel holds 6 different coloured led's, (I wondered how different wavelengths would affect the readings) the two stages are controlled with the micrometers and the peep hole/screen plate moves up and down via a long thread.


I may build a Bath interferometer to test the 12" mirrors but as I am polishing to spherical then flexing to final shape its not really needed as a simple null for the sphere should be sufficient.


----------



## ariscats (Mar 9, 2015)

savarin said:


> Hi Ariscats,
> My current project is here  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/80mm-long-focal-length-refractor.26212/
> but I never made the lenses.
> The next one will be the 12" binoscope where I will grind and polish the glass and will show the equipment in that blog when I start it.
> ...


I went through your project with great interest.The tensioning elements in the tripod ringed a small bell in my memory.Are you building boats too?
Ariscats


----------



## roadie33 (Mar 9, 2015)

I was at an Auction 2 weeks ago and they had an inspection plate they were trying to auction off.
I believe it was 8" thick 36" x 48" on a very sturdy steel stand.
The owner said it was .0005 accurate and weighed 1200 lbs.
I could have got it for $50 but had no way to move it as it had to be out by end of day.


----------



## ariscats (Mar 9, 2015)

roadie33 said:


> I was at an Auction 2 weeks ago and they had an inspection plate they were trying to auction off.
> I believe it was 8" thick 36" x 48" on a very sturdy steel stand.
> The owner said it was .0005 accurate and weighed 1200 lbs.
> I could have got it for $50 but had no way to move it as it had to be out by end of day.


Can you send it to Greece By Airmail Parcel Post and i will send to you $50 LOL


----------



## roadie33 (Mar 9, 2015)

Sure thing ariscats, LOL
I know the Auctioneer as he did my father's auction and he kept trying to get me to bid on it because he knew I work with wood and metal in my shop.
I told him I would take it if he could get it loaded into the back of my truck. I could get it unloaded no problem at the house.
Needless to say, it did not sell. Even at the ridiculous low $50 bid.


----------

