# PM935-TV Arrives



## catoctin (Sep 16, 2014)

My new mill finally arrived yesterday around 11 AM.  This was a second delivery attempt.  RR tried to deliver on Friday but the driver was concerned his lift gate couldn't handle it and decided to have a second attempt at delivery made with another truck.

I planned to use a gantry crane to lift mine since my mobile base is wider than my HF engine lift.  Matt and I have passed several emails back and forth on the head room for using a chain lift with the crane.  My concern was with having enough room for the lift.  The gantry crane rental yard thought the maximum height for the crane was 5'10".  Turns out it was almost 8'.   

Even with all of the planning, RR threw me a curve ball.  They stuck a second much smaller pallet under PM pallet.  Groan!   I was planning to do the rental today but the second pallet made the mill very unstable.  Given the recent seismic activity we have had in NorCal, I decided to proceed forward with the rental yesterday. 

Here's a set of pictures of the mill resting on the second pallet:





The weight on the mill when using the lift ring is very forward biased.   Ryan commented on this before.  I ran out of head room while trying to  remove the lower pallet.  My HF engine lift allowed me to lift the PM  pallet from the front and remove the extra pallet. 




Finally, I got the pallet removed and planted the original PM pallet on the ground.  Yeah!





Ok...Now it's time for the mobile base.




Done and in the garage!



-Joe


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## zmotorsports (Sep 16, 2014)

Joe, looks great.  Glad to see you got it and everything is ok.  Nice looking setup there.


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## wrmiller (Sep 16, 2014)

Very nice. I really do like that mill.

Bill


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## Stonebriar (Sep 16, 2014)

Congratulations!

That is the same thing the freight company did to me.  The problem is the pallet attached to the mill is made so a pallet jack wont work so they stick it on another pallet.  Matt needs to address this before someone has a mill destroyed.

Rick


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## Smudgemo (Sep 16, 2014)

Man, that took forever, but I think you'll find it worth the wait.  

Early on, check that your collets will fit the spindle and be ready for adjusting the set screws back out a bit.  Mike's got himself a fancy tool it appears, but I just made one out of two pieces of scrap angle-iron and three bolts.  You're welcome to use it if you make the drive, but it's pretty simple to make one.  Just remember there is a set-screw holding the collar in place, and the collar is threaded left-hand.  Sounds like this is a common adjustment need.

Have fun!

-Ryan


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## catoctin (Sep 16, 2014)

The problem is typically they don't stick the best pallet in house under the mill.  It was difficult sliding the pallet out because so many boards had popped loose.


Stonebriar said:


> Congratulations!
> 
> That is the same thing the freight company did to me.  The problem is the pallet attached to the mill is made so a pallet jack wont work so they stick it on another pallet.  Matt needs to address this before someone has a mill destroyed.
> 
> Rick


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## catoctin (Sep 16, 2014)

I really liked using the gantry crane.  All of my kids headed off to college so this was a one man show.  This crane was all aluminum so it was not overwhelming.  



zmotorsports said:


> Joe, looks great.  Glad to see you got it and everything is ok.  Nice looking setup there.


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## catoctin (Sep 16, 2014)

It make you think that it was done on purpose that way requiring the user to do the micro adjustments.  I used a strap wrench on mine.  It's funny Mike said to check other tooling after the adjustment is made.  I made my adjustment based on a collet from Enco.  My PM collets work fine with this adjustment along a drill chuck from Glacern.  However, I did find that an integral shank facemill from Glacern did not.  The facemill did have a nick on the at the top of the key way as if it was bumped in the factory.  This one I will get to later.   



Smudgemo said:


> Man, that took forever, but I think you'll find it worth the wait.
> 
> Early on, check that your collets will fit the spindle and be ready for adjusting the set screws back out a bit.  Mike's got himself a fancy tool it appears, but I just made one out of two pieces of scrap angle-iron and three bolts.  You're welcome to use it if you make the drive, but it's pretty simple to make one.  Just remember there is a set-screw holding the collar in place, and the collar is threaded left-hand.  Sounds like this is a common adjustment need.
> 
> ...


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## catoctin (Sep 25, 2014)

Just a brief update on my mill setup.  Still going through the setup on this guy.  I drilled through the 1/4" angle shelf on my mobile base this past weekend to tie down the mill.  It turns out the bolts I purchased from McMaster-Carr were a 1/4" shorter than the advertised 9" length and the mill base is a little higher in the backend.  I got the new 10" bolts in this week and moved the base to an area in my shop where it will be finally located.  Moving this thing around in the garage is like dancing with the Queen Mary.  I needed to move other equipment way out of the way to avoid collisions.  Once this thing is in motion, it tends to stay in motion.  I am very impressed with the US made wheels.  This rig has moved across a pebble driveway and expansion joints in the garage and still look good.  



I went through tramming the head yesterday and tried out Ryan's bearing race method.  It surprised me just how flat these things are.  I rotated the race under the test indicator and saw less than a 10 thousands variation.

There were a few spots on the ways and table top that needed minor rust removal.  It was mostly on the ends outside of where the mill will be normally used but a bit ugly.  I buffed these down and way oil coated the surfaces.  Here's one spot on the end of my table top after rust removal.



My clamp set came in yesterday from Enco and it also got the UPS white glove treatment.  Three of six of the t-slot nuts were missing even though it was double boxed.  It looks like the internal box was shot through the external and then taped up in transit.  Seems like we are batting 1000 with the shipping companies lately.

I plan on doing a vise mount today.


Yup.... this is a 5" Glacern with the oddball 5/8" hex nut.  I noticed others using this vise found an equivalent to the "Quickie" vise handle.  Where did you score it from?
Thanks,
-Joe


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## wrmiller (Sep 25, 2014)

Ah yes...momentum (p = m * v). 

Nice setup by the way.

Bill


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## Falcon67 (Sep 25, 2014)

>I noticed others using this vise found an equivalent to the "Quickie" vise handle.

Can't help with the Glacern specifically, but I bought a use-enco.com #337-9316 on sale.  It didn't fit my 4" vice.  So what I did was find a socket (I think 10mm) that did fit the vice shaft, then bored out the hex part of the quickie handle and pressed in the socket.  Good enough.


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## Smudgemo (Sep 25, 2014)

Yeah, a $5 socket (9/16", I think for my 4" vise) and some scrap.  Plenty of leverage on everything so far.  The store-bought variety are too big, but the idea of boring one out for a properly sized socket is a cool idea.




-Ryan


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## zmotorsports (Sep 25, 2014)

catoctin said:


> Yup.... this is a 5" Glacern with the oddball 5/8" hex nut.  I noticed others using this vise found an equivalent to the "Quickie" vise handle.  Where did you score it from?
> Thanks,
> -Joe



I picked up a "speed handle" from Will, aka Darkzero, a few months ago.  He had some CNC machined and then clear anodized.  They are awesome little handles.  I also fabricated one by taking a cheapy 5/8" wrench with a 1.5" hollow steel ball TIG welded on the end.

By the way, nice choice on the GMT 5" vise.  I love mine.


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## wrmiller (Sep 25, 2014)

zmotorsports said:


> I picked up a "speed handle" from Will, aka Darkzero, a few months ago.  He had some CNC machined and then clear anodized.  They are awesome little handles.  I also fabricated one by taking a cheapy 5/8" wrench with a 1.5" hollow steel ball TIG welded on the end.
> 
> By the way, nice choice on the GMT 5" vise.  I love mine.



Slight hijack guys, but the speed handle you speak of is the one Darkzero is selling in the classified section? Reason I ask is that I too have a 5" vise (was going to be a GMT until I tripped over a 5" Kurt for sale) and would like to get a speed handle for it. The one I have for my 4" vise won't fit.  

Edit: Darkzero has some handles left. I bought a couple.

Bill


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## zmotorsports (Sep 26, 2014)

Here is the speed handle that I got from Will, aka Darkzero.





Here is the one that I made from a 5/8" Carlyle wrench cut down and welded to a hollow steel ball.  I really like this one too as it fits in the palm of my hand nicely.


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## drs23 (Sep 26, 2014)

I really like the ones that Will has in the classifieds but my 6" GMT is 3/4", not 5/8". Haven't seen any for it yet. Still looking though. That huge handle that came with it certainly gets the job done but if I could find something not as large I would hop on it.


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## zmotorsports (Sep 26, 2014)

drs23 said:


> I really like the ones that Will has in the classifieds but my 6" GMT is 3/4", not 5/8". Haven't seen any for it yet. Still looking though. That huge handle that came with it certainly gets the job done but if I could find something not as large I would hop on it.



I haven't even used the one that came with my vise.  It's sitting on the shelf collecting dust.  I know they work but they are just so cumbersome and "clunky" feeling.


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## darkzero (Sep 26, 2014)

Congrats on the new mill!




drs23 said:


> I really like the ones that Will has in the classifieds but my 6" GMT is 3/4", not 5/8". Haven't seen any for it yet. Still looking though. That huge handle that came with it certainly gets the job done but if I could find something not as large I would hop on it.



There a few offered for the 6", 3/4" hex. 3/4" handles are commonly found but the 5/8" handles were pretty much non existant & is why I persued on getting them.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=337-9317&PMPXNO=28666373&PARTPG=INLMK3

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=337-9316&PMPXNO=28666367&PARTPG=INLMK3

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VISE-HANDLE...5?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item4621211e81

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPEED-VISE-...9?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item4acf33bad3

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPI-Quickie...381?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a8cf1225d

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPI-Quickie...3?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item338d275331


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## drs23 (Sep 26, 2014)

darkzero said:


> Congrats on the new mill!
> 
> There a few offered for the 6", 3/4" hex. 3/4" handles are commonly found but the 5/8" handles were pretty much non existant & is why I persued on getting them.
> 
> ...



Geeze, guess I should have looked a little harder. ;^) Now for the next Enco sale w/shipping that doesn't have a $149 minimum purchase. Gonna put it in my cart right now.

Thanks fellas!


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## zmotorsports (Sep 26, 2014)

drs23 said:


> Geeze, guess I should have looked a little harder. ;^) Now for the next Enco sale w/shipping that doesn't have a $149 minimum purchase. Gonna put it in my cart right now.
> 
> Thanks fellas!



What?  Wait, you have actually been able to get away from Enco for less than $149.00?:whistle:


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## catoctin (Nov 18, 2014)

I have had my mill now for close to two months and have been making changes to my machining area as I go.  The first thing I needed to work on is lighting.  The two car garage stall where my "toys" reside has 6 four bulb fixtures in the ceiling.  The problem is my ceiling is 12' tall and the actual light intensity on the mill is ok but not great for close work.  I didn't order the halogen light with the machine because my area just gets too hot. in the summer.  My preference was LED lighting so I prototyped a couple of floor standing LED lights.





I picked up two PAR38 LED spot light bulbs from Costco for around $15 dollars each and cobbled this together with some outdoor fixtures, EMT tubing, and outdoor receptacle boxes.  The stands are 14" x 14" double stacked pieces of scrap plywood with galanized plumbing flanges bolted on.   The only change I have done so far is cut the height on the rear light by roughly 9 inches.  Each of the bulbs puts out 950 lumens of cool light.  The color temperature seems to be right where halogen is.  I eventually rebuild the setup out of aluminum but it's good enough for now.  The nice thing is I can use the fixture elsewhere in the garage if required.

I started out cleaning up around the mill with an old Lowes mini shop vac. The filter was always clogging up with chips and oil.  Several folks have used Oneida Dust Deputies and have been very happy with them so I decided to try one.  Most folks think the home cyclone vacuums are a new thing but they have been used for years in industry.  So I decided to build my "chiperator"  for cleaning up in the shop area.



I built a plywood platform with casters to hold the setup.  The 10 gallon metal dust deputy sits on the 3/4" plywood base and is held in place by a second layer of plywood with a hole cut in it.  I purchased a Rigid 1450 shop vac as a vacuum source.  The shop vac is mounted on a plywood box to reduce the number of bends on the vacuum hose to the Dust Deputy.  The box also functions as a storage area for the vacuum hose.  I mounted the shop vac to the box using the screw holes for mounting the feet to the vac.  This thing works great.   Almost all of the oil and chip debris ends up in the can.  The only things that seem to make it back to the vacuum are sheets of paper and an occasional shop towel.

-Joe


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## zmotorsports (Nov 18, 2014)

Lookin' good Joe.


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## GA Gyro (Nov 18, 2014)

I like the way the mill sits in your stand... gives it a wider stance... probably more stable.

I also like that vacuum... probably will have to make something like that in due time.

THX for posting, appreciate it!

John


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## catoctin (Feb 5, 2015)

Well I finally got around to finishing my power drawbar for my PM-935.  I spent several months reviewing the various designs that are out there and eventually ran across a Joe Vicar's version from 2006.  It is a pretty simple design.  The plans are available for $15 and are a good starting point.  Here's what the final top assembly looks like:



The top assembly contains only three machined pieces and contains no external springs.  I deviated from the plan by creating a full round bottom plate.  The bottom plate started as a square 3/4" piece of 6160 aluminum.  All holes were drilled prior to the rounding operation on a rotary table.


I cut down the front side of the plate to 1/4" in case I ever need to access the drawbar with a wrench.  



Another place I deviated from the original design was adding bronze bushings on the impact wrench plate.  These were pressed in and bored out to .51 " The original design used a hole in the aluminum bored out to .53".  The plate was also increased from 1/4" to 1/2".  


I spent a significant amount measuring and remeasuring changes to the HF impact wrench since the 2006 design was created.  Since my design does not allow for adjustment, I needed to also get the center of the wrench dimensioned.

My activation button started out as a 1" square aluminum bar.



to be continued........


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## catoctin (Feb 5, 2015)

For simplicity, I milled in an "I" for on and an "O" for off on the activator lever.



The completed lever on the mounting plate is shown in the photo below:



I spent a lot of time thinking about where to mount the control assembly.  I wanted to get it close to the brake lever in order to work the lever and brake with the same hand.  Two of the four vent panel M5 mount screws seemed like the best mount points.



My mounting bracket started out as a 3/4" thick piece of aluminum.  A clearance slot 1/4" deep was cut on the bottom of the bracket to clear the contour of the head.


The two 1/2" contact feet were blued to eyeball skim a 2 degree profile.  It's hard to tell from the photo but the bracket is tilted 2 degrees in the vice.  The final bracket with the profile is depicted below:




The final fitment on the mill head looks like the following:



continued.....


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## catoctin (Feb 5, 2015)

Just a few more photos and comments.  Here's a few more shots on top of the mill  including the air piston that contains the recovery spring:



And a few shots of my helper:




Gotta love those father-daughter projects.  

I was really surprised that the gas piston spring had enough umph to pull the impact wrench up but it does.  My setup still needs a little more cleanup.  My shop has 1/2" copper pipe running on the perimeter for compressed air.  There is a tap for the mill but it isn't in use yet.  I plan to add a regulator and oiler on the side of the mill for the drawbar, compressed air gun, and a synthetic oil mister.  

The biggest pain in completing this project was finding a decent HF butterfly impact wrench.  I bought two at a HF store in Tracy, CA and returned them for bad air leaks on the swivel.  Another sample was taken at a HF in Fremont, CA.  It leaked too.  I finally bought two at the store in Hayward, CA and they didn't leak.  We have a winner!  Many of the other Asian importers also have the sample problem from what I have seen on the web.


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## zmotorsports (Feb 5, 2015)

Look awesome Joe.  Great job and great to see you have a helper out there in the shop.  Treasure those times.

As far as the HF butterfly, I too had to go through a couple before getting one that was worth the crap.  Just another reason I hate HF.

Mike.


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## Chip (Feb 5, 2015)

She needs a hair net or something.


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## catoctin (Feb 5, 2015)

Chip said:


> She needs a hair net or something.



I busted her a few times for that along with her Formula-SAE racing team professor at college.  There is a story of a college girl at the University of Michigan that got her neck broke by a drill press.  Guys with long hair need to watch that too.


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## GA Gyro (Feb 5, 2015)

What she is doing in the picture is not 'that' dangerous... however...

We know sooner or later she will lean into the work... and that beautiful hair may cause a painful accident.  

Better if she understands and develops the habit sooner than later.


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## catoctin (Feb 6, 2015)

Thanks Mike.  I find it hard to knock HF because of their prices.  However, you can't use their stuff for anything critical. Those butterfly wrenches are on sale this month for $14 for "Inside Track Club" members.  I bought one of their 20 ton presses for $150 in December.  The funny thing is they got great reviews on the original and then they imported a cost reduced version.  The original had a bolted top cross member, fixed jack, and a gusseted stand.  Well they are now MIG welding the top cross member on,  the jack free floats, and the gussets are gone.  That's ok.  I planned to and build a welded on "H" frame from 3" x 4" with wheels to roll it around.  The floating jack seems fine and would have probably of welded the top member anyway.  I picked up one of their 7x12 metal cutting band saws in July with pretty low expectations.  The first one had very obvious shipping damage.  The main pulley shaft was bent at a 20 degree angle.  I bought it from one of their stores so the freight delivery guys are off the hook.  They replaced it no questions asked.  The second one cuts straight and I still haven't managed to wear out the blade yet.  Their welding clamps are a bargain.  Not exactly Besseys but that's ok.  Close enough.  I would never buy machinery from them or a TIG/MIG welder.  That's where to spend your money when precision is important.  Going back to the press.  I can't tell you how many bearings my dad and I pressed in with bar and threaded stock.  At $150, I think my dad would have sprung for one of their presses.

-Joe



zmotorsports said:


> Look awesome Joe.  Great job and great to see you have a helper out there in the shop.  Treasure those times.
> 
> As far as the HF butterfly, I too had to go through a couple before getting one that was worth the crap.  Just another reason I hate HF.
> 
> Mike.


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## zmotorsports (Feb 6, 2015)

catoctin said:


> Thanks Mike.  I find it hard to knock HF because of their prices.  However, you can't use their stuff for anything critical. Those butterfly wrenches are on sale this month for $14 for "Inside Track Club" members.  I bought one of their 20 ton presses for $150 in December.  The funny thing is they got great reviews on the original and then they imported a cost reduced version.  The original had a bolted top cross member, fixed jack, and a gusseted stand.  Well they are now MIG welding the top cross member on,  the jack free floats, and the gussets are gone.  That's ok.  I planned to and build a welded on "H" frame from 3" x 4" with wheels to roll it around.  The floating jack seems fine and would have probably of welded the top member anyway.  I picked up one of their 7x12 metal cutting band saws in July with pretty low expectations.  The first one had very obvious shipping damage.  The main pulley shaft was bent at a 20 degree angle.  I bought it from one of their stores so the freight delivery guys are off the hook.  They replaced it no questions asked.  The second one cuts straight and I still haven't managed to wear out the blade yet.  Their welding clamps are a bargain.  Not exactly Besseys but that's ok.  Close enough.  I would never buy machinery from them or a TIG/MIG welder.  That's where to spend your money when precision is important.  Going back to the press.  I can't tell you how many bearings my dad and I pressed in with bar and threaded stock.  At $150, I think my dad would have sprung for one of their presses.
> 
> -Joe



I agree Joe, those HF butterfly guns are pretty cheap, it is just a crap shoot on getting a good one.  I recently sold my original power drawbar to a forum member and before I shipped it off to him and took the receipt and ran down to exchange the butterfly with a new one for him.  Then installed it and tested it prior to boxing it up and shipping it.  The one I originally had on it was leaking pretty bad, it worked well but it was leaking internally and seemed to be exhausting more than it should.  The 90-day warranty was about up so I just ran down and exchanged it.  I felt better about it having a fresh one on the drawbar.

I had one of their hydraulic presses about 20+years ago.  Although it worked I was not impressed with it, probably because I was used to high quality Nugier 20-ton press at the maintenance shop I was working in.  I was doing a lot of transmissions, gearboxes, motorcycle engines/transmissions at the time and just wasn't impressed with it.  My company bought a new air over hydraulic 30-ton press one year and offered the Nugier to the employees through a silent bid process.  I won the bid, brought it home, cleaned it, reconditioned/re-sealed it and it has been a very heavily used piece of equipment and quite a welcomed addition to my shop.  I gave my brother my HF one and he still has it in his home shop.

I almost bought one of the HF 4x6 horizontal bandsaws about a year ago after reading a lot of very high reviews of it after some "tweaking".  I just couldn't bring myself to do it.  I ended up keeping my eyes open and found a well used mid-90's Taiwan made Jet 7x12 for a few hundred dollars and cleaned it up.  It has been working well and much nicer than the abrasive chop saw I had been using for the previous 20+ years.  It is nice to not have to move the motorcycles out of the shop just to avoid flying sparks from the chop saw.  I am looking to upgrade it to a miter style someday but haven't fixated on a brand yet.

Mike.


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## catoctin (Feb 6, 2015)

Mike,
Can't wait to see your next power drawbar.  I am assuming you sold the one you posted on your PM-935 thread.

-Joe



zmotorsports said:


> I agree Joe, those HF butterfly guns are pretty cheap, it is just a crap shoot on getting a good one.  I recently sold my original power drawbar to a forum member and before I shipped it off to him and took the receipt and ran down to exchange the butterfly with a new one for him.  Then installed it and tested it prior to boxing it up and shipping it.  The one I originally had on it was leaking pretty bad, it worked well but it was leaking internally and seemed to be exhausting more than it should.  The 90-day warranty was about up so I just ran down and exchanged it.  I felt better about it having a fresh one on the drawbar.
> 
> I had one of their hydraulic presses about 20+years ago.  Although it worked I was not impressed with it, probably because I was used to high quality Nugier 20-ton press at the maintenance shop I was working in.  I was doing a lot of transmissions, gearboxes, motorcycle engines/transmissions at the time and just wasn't impressed with it.  My company bought a new air over hydraulic 30-ton press one year and offered the Nugier to the employees through a silent bid process.  I won the bid, brought it home, cleaned it, reconditioned/re-sealed it and it has been a very heavily used piece of equipment and quite a welcomed addition to my shop.  I gave my brother my HF one and he still has it in his home shop.
> 
> ...


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## wildo (Jan 21, 2016)

catoctin said:


> I started out cleaning up around the mill with an old Lowes mini shop vac. The filter was always clogging up with chips and oil.  Several folks have used Oneida Dust Deputies and have been very happy with them so I decided to try one.  Most folks think the home cyclone vacuums are a new thing but they have been used for years in industry.  So I decided to build my "chiperator"  for cleaning up in the shop area.
> 
> ...
> 
> This thing works great.   Almost all of the oil and chip debris ends up in the can.  The only things that seem to make it back to the vacuum are sheets of paper and an occasional shop towel.




I realize this is an old thread. I was doing a forum search for "cyclone" and found this thread. The Oneida website does state that the Dust Deputy can be used for "Metal Scraps and Shavings" but I wondered how well it worked once those metal scraps were covered in cutting oil and all clumped together. In fact, I was wondering this about cyclone systems in general and trying to research it.

You posted about your Dust Deputy more than a year ago now. Still using it? Still like it? Would you say that a bigger, dedicated cyclone dust collection system might be money well spent? Or does a simple shop vac with the Dust Deputy more than suffice?


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## catoctin (Jan 27, 2016)

wildo said:


> I realize this is an old thread. I was doing a forum search for "cyclone" and found this thread. The Oneida website does state that the Dust Deputy can be used for "Metal Scraps and Shavings" but I wondered how well it worked once those metal scraps were covered in cutting oil and all clumped together. In fact, I was wondering this about cyclone systems in general and trying to research it.
> 
> You posted about your Dust Deputy more than a year ago now. Still using it? Still like it? Would you say that a bigger, dedicated cyclone dust collection system might be money well spent? Or does a simple shop vac with the Dust Deputy more than suffice?



Sorry for the late reply.  I still use my setup and it stills works well with a few caveats along the lines of your questions.  My unit is the all metal setup.  The hose leading to Oneida gets a little heavy after extended use.  I am assuming oily chips are finding their way into the vacuum tube corrugation rings.   The other issue I had just recently was with long skinny chips of aluminum.  These tended to ball up and block the inlet.  This actually happened a little over a week ago for the first time.  Other than that my unit works great.  The big Rigid shop vac works great with the unit and makes cleanup a snap.  The nice thing is the vacuum stays relatively clean.  Every now and then I vacuum up a blue paper shop towel.  These will make it back to the vacuum.

One side note.  Cyclone separators in general work pretty well.  They pretty much work like Dyson vacuum cleaners by using a cyclone flow to strip particles out of the air flow.  This prevents the clogging a the shop vac's filter and helps to maintain air flow.   I bought an HF media blast cabinet and did the Tacoma upgrade to it.  Mike from Tacoma requests that the side port on the cabinet be the inlet and the rear port be the outlet.  Both ports are covered with shrouds to prevent good media from getting out of the cabinet.  I have a plastic Dust Deputy with Fein Hepa vacuum connected to the outlet.  It pretty much keeps the media dust out of the vacuum.


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## wildo (Jan 27, 2016)

Thanks for the response, catoctin. Sounds like I was thinking around the right lines. Glad to know that a standard shop vac will likely be plenty strong for my application and no need to spend the big bucks on a dedicated (and power consuming) cyclone system. Thanks again!


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