# New guys here with a stupid question.



## GreggC (Mar 3, 2017)

Hey guys,
My name is Gregg,
The last time I worked on a lath was in high school 35 years ago so Im a complete
beginner, hopefully you guys can put up with me until I get some time under my belt,
unfortunately for you guys that'll mean some beginner questions.
I just purchased a Shop Fox M1049 off of Amazon,
I did not come with the tool bit holder so I purchased the recommended 3/8"
Tool bit holder, when I face the bit is not in the center of the work piece.
I suspect I purchased the incorrect tool holder ??
Help !!


----------



## David S (Mar 3, 2017)

Gregg, first and foremost welcome to our forum.  I am not familiar with your lathe.  It could help; if you could post a picture of your lathe and the tooling that you are using.

David


----------



## GreggC (Mar 3, 2017)

Hey David,
Thanks for the reply,


----------



## BFHammer (Mar 3, 2017)

Good question & welcome aboard!

I stumbled across this thread that I think will answer your question

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/how-to-adjust-tool-height-on-a-lathe.43595

Am sure others more experienced than me will be along with some good advice as well.

Mark


----------



## Wreck™Wreck (Mar 3, 2017)

You are not facing a part held that far from the chuck are you?

To answer your question however, place a part in the chuck and face across it and then shim the tool until the nub disappears, this may take a good deal of time. This is the only way to set a facing tool to 0 or parting tool to 0.

Also do not expect brazed carbide tools to repeat, an expensive insert tool will do so after an insert change and are worth the money.


----------



## markba633csi (Mar 3, 2017)

Yeah Gregg you have to add spacers or shims under the tool holder to bring it up.  Quick change holders are nice because you can set 'em on center very quickly, but they cost more. 
Mark S.


----------



## bcliff8 (Mar 3, 2017)

Hey Greg, 
That is the same as I have. But a different brand. What I did was to add a shim of sheet metal underneath the tool. Next time you buy tool bits add a strong 1/8 to the size of bit. I buy a lot of my tooling at Harbor Freight. Really cheep there. Also there is a yahoo group that specializes in this lathe. The group is 9X20lathe. Let me know if I can be of any help.   Bill


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GreggC (Mar 3, 2017)

Wreck™Wreck said:


> You are not facing a part held that far from the chuck are you?
> 
> No Sir,
> I move it out in the hope of getting a better pic, I faced it with 2" protruding front the chuck..





markba633csi said:


> Yeah Gregg you have to add spacers or shims under the tool holder to bring it up.  Quick change holders are nice because you can set 'em on center very quickly, but they cost more.
> Mark S.



Quick change tool holder, I dont ming buying one of those,
Any recommendations ??


----------



## jamby (Mar 3, 2017)

Greg
  One of the most important requirements of cutting material in a lathe is to have the tool tip on center line of the lathe,  e.g. same as the point of the tail stock center.   Another big thing is to keep your tooling in as close as possible for rigidity.  Meaning its a good idea to bring your insert tool back until you have three screws on it. 
  Now if the material you turning won't go back further in the chuck you might want to try using your steady rest to support the stock.  Best to get a good book (amazon, ebay) on how to operate a lathe for some of the most fundamental set ups.

Jim


----------



## tweinke (Mar 3, 2017)

Automotive feeler gauges are your friend to set tool height plus all the suggestions above


----------



## JR49 (Mar 3, 2017)

One other thing, Gregg, We have a saying here,  "there are no stupid questions".  As a fairly new hobby machinist myself, I just love reading all the "beginner questions".  It helps my 67 year old brain keep fresh on the basics, so keep them coming,   JR49


----------



## GreggC (Mar 3, 2017)

Thank for the help today guys,
The feeler gauge shims did the trick.
My search for a quick change tool post will start tomorrow.


----------



## intjonmiller (Mar 4, 2017)

Wreck" data-source="post: 465327"
	class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">
	
		
WreckWreck said:



			You are not facing a part held that far from the chuck are you?

To answer your question however, place a part in the chuck and face across it and then shim the tool until the nub disappears, this may take a good deal of time. This is the only way to set a facing tool to 0 or parting tool to 0.

Also do not expect brazed carbide tools to repeat, an expensive insert tool will do so after an insert change and are worth the money.
		
Click to expand...

He said he's a beginner. No need for the condescending tone. And that is clearly inserted carbide he's using, not brazed carbide.


----------



## Tozguy (Mar 4, 2017)

Hi Gregg, welcome aboard.
Nice looking lathe, many hours of fun waiting for you right there.
Hope you enjoy the shopping for a QCTP. 
Just so you know there are shim kits for what you are using now.
http://www.busybeetools.com/products/shims-metal.html
Mike


----------



## GreggC (Mar 4, 2017)

Tozguy said:


> Hi Gregg, welcome aboard.
> Nice looking lathe, many hours of fun waiting for you right there.
> Hope you enjoy the shopping for a QCTP.
> Just so you know there are shim kits for what you are using now.
> ...



Thanks Mike,
Just ordered !!


----------



## Tozguy (Mar 4, 2017)

Do you mean you ordered a QCTP or a shim kit? 
Was gonna say that there is some discussion about QCTP over here.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/whats-the-differance-tool-post-styles-piston-or-wedge.56439/


----------



## GreggC (Mar 4, 2017)

Tozguy said:


> Do you mean you ordered a QCTP or a shim kit?
> Was gonna say that there is some discussion about QCTP over here.
> http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/whats-the-differance-tool-post-styles-piston-or-wedge.56439/



I ordered the shim kit.
Still searching the web learning / looking for a QCTP,
Looks like Harbor Freight has one that is a bolt one.


----------



## GreggC (Mar 4, 2017)

The selection of QCTP seems endless,
I'd like to purchase something I can bolt on.


----------



## Dorn (Mar 4, 2017)

Wreck™Wreck said:


> You are not facing a part held that far from the chuck are you?
> 
> To answer your question however, place a part in the chuck and face across it and then shim the tool until the nub disappears, this may take a good deal of time. This is the only way to set a facing tool to 0 or parting tool to 0. ...
> .



Actually there are lots of ways to set the tool height.  By far my favorite method is shown in this youtube video:





{Probably a better method yet is to make a height setting gauge for your lathe, but I never
seem to get around to it.}

DORN


----------



## Tozguy (Mar 4, 2017)

Usually the QCTP comes with a mounting bolt and a T nut blank that needs to be milled to fit the slot in the compound of the specific lathe in question. 
Not having a mill at the time, I just turned a bolt to fit the existing T nut and mounted the QCTP just as well. Later with the possibility to mill the T nut blank I reverted to using the mounting bolt  that came with the QCTP. Please let me know if you would like more details. 
Your compound looks different than mine. How does the current tool holder mount to the compound?


----------



## Tozguy (Mar 4, 2017)

My computer is stuttering.


----------



## Tozguy (Mar 4, 2017)

Photo above goes with text that follows.


----------



## Tozguy (Mar 4, 2017)

Tool height setting gauge doesn't have to be complicated. This is my quick en dirty one that has earned its keep many times over. The underside of the SS bolt head was faced square. Obviously the bolt must not protrude beyond the bottom nut.
View attachment 227825


The tool is raised until it just barely lifts and tilts the bolt. To set the gauge to start with do a facing job and adjusting the tool height until there is no nub to speak of. Then adjust the gauge to the tool.


----------



## Tozguy (Mar 4, 2017)

GreggC said:


> The selection of QCTP seems endless,
> I'd like to purchase something I can bolt on.



Is this like yours?
 2100 × 1400 - amazon.com


----------



## GreggC (Mar 4, 2017)

Yep,
Thats it.


----------



## savarin (Mar 4, 2017)

I went down the same route your on, I made a spacer to fit the original tool post bolt and although it worked it didnt solve the chatter problem.
I replaced the centre bolt with one of the correct size.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/the-9x20-mods-thread.30050/
I now use a plinth instead of the compound and the lathe is way more rigid.
I only had a few more weeks experience than you when I started this so its not difficult.


----------



## Wreck™Wreck (Mar 4, 2017)

intjonmiller said:


> He said he's a beginner. No need for the condescending tone. And that is clearly inserted carbide he's using, not brazed carbide.


How may one go about asking a simple question that is not condescending?

Dear Sir, are you trying to accomplish your goal as pictured, if so my experience leads me to believe that this will not achieve the desired results, I could be wrong however therefor employ any method that you have at hand.
Better?


----------



## GreggC (Mar 4, 2017)

Wreck™Wreck said:


> How may one go about asking a simple question that is not condescending?
> 
> Dear Sir, are you trying to accomplish your goal as pictured, if so my experience leads me to believe that this will not achieve the desired results, I could be wrong however therefor employ any method that you have at hand.
> Better?



No offense taken,
I moderate RZRFORUMS.NET with 95k members,
I see all kind of comments helping all kinds of people / problems.
I appreciated the comment.


----------



## tq60 (Mar 4, 2017)

You are making tool height too complicated.

First search for old school books from old shop classes as they have good stuff.

Second the atlas or craftsman manuals put the SB ones to shame as they had much good stuff.

Back to tool height...

Just get your pocket rule or a short chunk of steel strapping (does not really matter) and hold it vertical between your tool and the work.

Gently (more so with carbide as it can break) bring the carriage closer to the work until it just touches.

When it is touching the rule on one side and holding it against the work the elevation of the tool  in relation to the point it contacts the work will cause it to be at some angle other than vertical.

Lean towards you too low and away to high and dead center will be straight up.

BTW we like the way post 21 shows as it is simple and clever but requires a suitable surface to work that our old iron does not have.



Your tool us one size too small for your lathe so consider next larger size but look for machinery dealers as many have the "used parts area" where they sell used items.

This allows yiu to try different things for cheap.

Our last trip we got some obsolete holders for 5 bucks a pop and the carbide inserts for free out of the see what is in it box.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk


----------



## intjonmiller (Mar 4, 2017)

Wreck" data-source="post: 465450"
	class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">
	
		
WreckWreck said:



			How may one go about asking a simple question that is not condescending?

Dear Sir, are you trying to accomplish your goal as pictured, if so my experience leads me to believe that this will not achieve the desired results, I could be wrong however therefor employ any method that you have at hand.
Better?
		
Click to expand...

Try just explaining the problem with that scenario. The way you said it here is truly abrasive. Only slightly paraphrased: "You aren't actually doing it that dumb way, are you?"


----------



## RJSakowski (Mar 4, 2017)

Add to the methods for setting tool height, this little gage. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/370592279135?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

In testing, I found it capable of detecting a height difference of .001".


----------



## carlquib (Mar 4, 2017)

I'm partial to the wedge type tool holders. More repeatable and stable in my experience,
since it pulls the holder in instead of pushing it out. 

Hello, my name is Brian and I'm a toolaholic


----------



## T Bredehoft (Mar 5, 2017)

One more thought on shimming the tool. (I haven't seen this here, so put it out as a suggestion) 
Shim the four tool block.  If all your tools are 3/8 inch, and you are an eighth low, put an eighth shim under the four tool  holder. One shim, one time, instead of every time you use a tool. 
Of course, if you have different sized tools, this won't work.


----------



## stupoty (Mar 5, 2017)

Wreck™Wreck said:


> You are not facing a part held that far from the chuck are you?
> 
> To answer your question however, place a part in the chuck and face across it and then shim the tool until the nub disappears, this may take a good deal of time. This is the only way to set a facing tool to 0 or parting tool to 0.
> 
> Also do not expect brazed carbide tools to repeat, an expensive insert tool will do so after an insert change and are worth the money.



Thats a very good safety point from wreck , if you are facing that far out from the chuck a fixed steady should be used, if you don't have a fixed steady then a lot of caution should be used along with very light cuts and maybe a face shield  

The best would be to insert into the spindle for facing and pull it out for putting a center hole in it.  But if the work is to big then you have to steady rests etc.

Stuart


----------



## markba633csi (Mar 6, 2017)

On the QCTPs many people say the "wedge" type post grips better than the "plunger" type.  Early Aloris posts were all plunger type but I think the wedge type has been proven to give a more positive grip with the low-cost units.  Your mileage of course, may vary. 
Mark S.


----------

