# Alexander 2CGD Cutter Grinder



## Martinez (Mar 28, 2022)

There’s always a reason people join particular forums, and mine is probably no different from anyone else. I’m a long term fully paid up Shedhead. If it’s not bikes n cars, it’s anything that needs fixing around the house. 
So after spotting a 2CGD ( no idea what the D is for ) at a bargain price I’ve jumped in feet first. In the past week I’ve discovered via the Web just how useful these little grinders are. But bargain price meant there were a few bits missing. A couple of them I can still buy online, but I’ll need a mortgage !
So the only other option is to make them myself. 
It’s not too bad, most of it’s there and in very good condition, but I’m missing the 1. collet nut/quill, 2. the ring in front of that, and 3. the ring marked in degrees in front of that one. Also, 4. the indexing ring with the red dot in it that fits under the latter. 
I’ve been searching for information on these parts but not much information available apart from some pictures of 1 & 4. 



	

		
			
		

		
	
But can’t find anything on the 2 rings. Think I can make the 2 parts pictured, but I’ve got no information on what degrees are marked on ring 3 or how it operates.
Any help greatly appreciated, meanwhile I’ll be watching another video on grinding


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## C-Bag (Mar 28, 2022)

The D is for D bit grinder. D bits are used for engraving mostly. Several of us here have the Chinese Deckel clones and use them . I don’t do D bits, i use mine to sharpen regular end mills. I think the Alexander is a lot like the Deckel. I wonder if it would be cheaper and easier to buy one of the Deckel clone heads off eBay? Last I saw they were around $175?


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## Martinez (Mar 28, 2022)

$175 ? Not in UK they’re not. I’d rather keep the original part which is in good condition and replace the missing parts. There’s always the chance of used parts coming up on Fleabay, but won’t hold my breath. 
On a positive note, after watching yet another YouTube video I can see that the Chinese copies have 360 deg graduations marked on the top ring, so think I’ll just go with that. Not sure how n what purpose the other ring serves, does it just lock the graduated ring in place ?


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## C-Bag (Mar 28, 2022)

Oh, my bad,  they want £135 for a grinding head like I mentioned. There are also several complete Clarkson and other tool and cutter grinders for around £450.









						Multifunction Milling cutter collets Grinder Universal Grinding Sharpener Tool   | eBay
					

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					www.ebay.co.uk


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## pontiac428 (Mar 28, 2022)

The Alexander is much nicer than the eastern import that I own.  If it were me, I'd be inclined to make the missing parts for the head... IF and only IF the collet system were already in my hands.  In other words, I wouldn't bother with anything other than a 5C head unless I was sitting on a full set of Deckel collets or whatever weird standard that the older Deckel, Alexander, and Gorton grinders use.

While the import heads don't have the nice fit and feel the older units do, they do the job and use available collets.  Retrofit would only require matching the head clamp diameter to the feed bar.


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## Martinez (Mar 29, 2022)

pontiac428 said:


> The Alexander is much nicer than the eastern import that I own.  If it were me, I'd be inclined to make the missing parts for the head... IF and only IF the collet system were already in my hands.  In other words, I wouldn't bother with anything other than a 5C head unless I was sitting on a full set of Deckel collets or whatever weird standard that the older Deckel, Alexander, and Gorton grinders use.
> 
> While the import heads don't have the nice fit and feel the older units do, they do the job and use available collets.  Retrofit would only require matching the head clamp diameter to the feed bar.


The collets are U2 and really are a matter of waiting for them to come up on eBay, although the Chinese still make a version of the grinder with U2 collets and U2 collets are available new made in China. I agree the Alexander is very well made so would rather keep as much of it as possible. The only parts on mine that appear worn or damaged are the diamond dresser and the main shaft. The dresser I’ve stripped and found it only really needs a clean and the main shaft has yet to be removed, but looks to have some corrosion. I found corrosion in a few parts I removed and 2 minutes with a wire brush and some oil has pretty much fixed that.
Im going to need to plan how I make the indexing ring, but holding it down to mill it looks to be the biggest problem to overcome.


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## Martinez (Mar 29, 2022)

here’s what I’ve got


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## Martinez (Mar 30, 2022)

Here’s a diagram showing the head unit 
	

		
			
		

		
	



just my luck that the bits I really need to see are the least clear. I’ve also watched couple of videos of similar grinders being refurbished, but none of them show what I really need to see clearly. Looks like I’ll have to draw it out myself and make something that works. Whilst watching Blondihacks she did mention that the indexing ring is made of cast iron, so that’s a start at least. Trying to decide between aluminium and steel for the 2 outer rings and as the ring at the back has a thread in it I think that’ll need to be steel. If I make the ring at the front from ally it’ll be easier to machine the degree marks, all 360 of them
can anyone advise the purpose of the threaded ring at the back ? Is it just a locking ring ?
I note the back ring is listed as ‘lock ring’ so what does it lock ?


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## Martinez (Mar 31, 2022)

My research continues via YouTube. Found this guy 



 who’s rebuilt a Deckel SO which looks to be almost identical to my Alexander 2cgd. Very useful but doesn’t show everything I need to know. 
I’ve removed the head unit and partially stripped it down. For an old machine the only real issues seem to be crud built up between parts and a small amount of rust. I’ve ordered some rust eating stuff and I’ll be further stripping the rest of it once I’ve got everything I need. 
I’ve got to learn a few new skills. Turning inside fine threads on my lathe is one of them, so I bought a cheap boring tool to practice. 
Let’s see how that one pans out. For the collet nut/quill things get even more tricky. The threads on the collets are 20 x 2mm, but they’ve got a backwards rake to them. Not sure if my cheap indexing tool will cut this. So a bit of practice needed. 
After warm weather for past 2 weeks, the temperature has plummeted today so the idea of going down the workshop isn’t one I fancy. Perhaps I can just do a bit in the ‘house workshop’ ? Or dining room as my Mrs keeps calling it. 
Time to put another log on the fire


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## brino (Mar 31, 2022)

Martinez said:


> I’ve removed the head unit and partially stripped it down. For an old machine the only real issues seem to be crud built up between parts and a small amount of rust. I’ve ordered some rust eating stuff and I’ll be further stripping the rest of it once I’ve got everything I need.


I have repeatedly found that taking lots of pictures when stripping down something for the first time to be an invaluable aid to reassembly.

Brian


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## ub27Rocks (Mar 31, 2022)

FYI, the D is for Decimal, the machine also came in metric. Quality-wise the Alexander is on par with Deckel, rumoured to have been made under license originally. And much more than 'just a d-bit' grinder.
the thread is called a buttress thread. the attached photo shows specs on the thread. changes are you already have a 55dg cutting tools for BS threads 
I have a 2CGD, can you PM me and I will get photos, dimensions of what you need.
I buy U2/E355 collets from AliExpress, excellent quality.


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## Martinez (Mar 31, 2022)

I knew there’d be someone on here with one, and I’ll certainly take up your offer  and now I know the meaning of the mystery D
I’ve managed to get the entire thing apart once I’d got past these 2 locking rings


it took me a while, then I realised that this part is actually the micrometer adjuster part, so winding it in allowed me to grip the outer ring with grips and then a sharp tap on the inner ring and it came loose. Note the corrosion here. The rotation stop hidden inside the unit body was held in with with a set screw, so that bit actually came apart easily. These parts also appear to be phosphor bronze


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