# Built a mill for less than $50 in just a few hours



## SE18 (Feb 3, 2013)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2Qqb5Au_tI

The brown paper bag material kept the end mill from slipping. One of the set screws that holds the steel button in the crossslide was a PITA to reach. I may need to make a longer allen wrench.

This is a temporary mill btw until I can make or buy a better one. But it seems to be working.

The video, which I made a few minutes ago, is actually the first time I tried out the mill


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## Jeff in Pa (Feb 3, 2013)

Looks pretty good. One suggestion, bring the endmill in closer to the chuck to reduce deflection.  It will make a difference when cutting metal.


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## SE18 (Feb 3, 2013)

Thanks for the tip, Jeff. I've never done this before so it was pretty cool. 

Before cutting steel to replace the wood parts you see, I thought I'd just make a mockup with wood to see how the dimensions play out (clearance etc). But now I'm thinking to leave the wood there until I find a reason to switch it out.

One concern I had is with the 4" drill press vise. Machinist vises seem to be pretty pricey, but if I find the drill press vise isn't up to task, then I'll exchange that out. But I'll take a wait and see approach.


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## jtrain (Feb 3, 2013)

You got the general idea at this stage using wood, and it is looking reeeallly good. John


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## Daver (Feb 3, 2013)

Just asking... But why not just mount the vise to the angle block? Wouldn't that be more rigid? Or is it a clearance / position issue?


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## SE18 (Feb 3, 2013)

the vice's slots were wider than the angle's and I didn't know if I wanted to keep this arrangement


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## Jimw (Feb 3, 2013)

Thnks for the video.I like it. I am betting the pine will have to much give for steel. Might be able to make small passes in aluminum.


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## SE18 (Feb 4, 2013)

you're right. It worked with wood and alum but not steel. 

Also, the machine button that fits into the crossslide hole (dovetail circle, 60 degrees, held by 2 set screws and angled pins), isn't enough to hold steel and keep it from turning. I may need to make some "ears" to go around and grab the carriage. 

I'd be interested to hear any solutions if any of you ran into something similar.

Dave


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## rgray (Feb 4, 2013)

I made an attachment that bolted to my crossslide on my 12x36 asian lathe.
It was homemade angle block and vise attached.  It was still flexable enough to chatter if not cutting with most of the cutting force directed down.
In your video if you were cutting from the opposite side more of the cutting force would be in the down direction.
This was most noticable when milling the end of something...ie mill accross the top as opposed to milling accross the bottom where the cutter would try to lift the work piece causing chatter.

I didn't use my compounds mounting. I drilled my crossslide just past where the crossslide nut is attatched and used a 5/8 fine thread stud for mounting.
Some sort of mill attachment for up and down movement is needed could be as simple as a t slot to allow the vise to slide.

I never inproved mine to that point cause I ended up with a good deal on a bridgeport mill.


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## SE18 (Feb 4, 2013)

at this point I'm disinclined to drill any holes in my crossslide.

I did discover a steady rest but this rest prevents chatter in a vertical direction. The only movement I experienced was in rotational movement caused by the lack of firm grip of the machine button where it mates inside the crossslide.

Anyway, here's the steady rest to which I'm referring. 

http://books.google.com/books?id=ot...e&q=popular mechanics mill attachment&f=false

you can see why that mill needed support as it uses the compound on which to mount the mill, creating too many layers that must be steadied. I'm thinking simpler is better with fewer parts to jiggle.

If at all possible, I may try to redesign a similar steady rest that would secure my angle plate to some point on the carriage or perhaps even under the bedways or maybe to the table itself using a rail on either side of the lathe.

Dave


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