# How do you Setup a Taig 4 Jaws Chuck?



## oskar (Jul 17, 2018)

This is the first time I tried to use the Taig 4 jaws chuck but the center tool I have mounted wobbles a bit. If I remember this chuck was described as self centering but it’s very awkward to turn the chuck plates to secure a tool. Is there a procedure to use this chuck the first time?

And what is the purpose of the 2 holes on the exterior face of each jaw?

Nicolas


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## Mitch Alsup (Jul 17, 2018)

You need to put a dial indicator on the part being held in the jaws and then adjust each jaw so that the part becomes coaxial with the spindle.

https://littlemachineshop.com/images/gallery/PDF/Centering4-JawChuck.pdf

A 4 jaw chuck can be used to hold a part off center so that things like crankshafts can be machined.
They can also be used to take an already round part, center it perfectly, and then machine another coaxial feature on the part.


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## markba633csi (Jul 17, 2018)

Aren't those holes the screws holding the jaws to the face?  I assumed they are replaceable jaws
mark


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## mikey (Jul 17, 2018)

I think that is a 4 jaw scroll Chuck. If so, the holes on the rim are for Tommy bars that allow you to tighten the Chuck. Put the stock in place and put a rod in each hole. Then move the Rods in opposite directions to tighten or loosen


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## oskar (Jul 17, 2018)

Thanks for the help folks

Yes the holes on each jaw are for holding the jaws to the face

The holes you see on the perimeter of the 2 plates of the chuck are to use 2 little bars which came with the chuck to open / close the jaws. So I don’t think I can adjust each jaw independently. The link you provided Mich is for a different type of chuck


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## oskar (Jul 17, 2018)

Thanks Mike

I know how to use the Tommy bars but I was asking how I can adjust the jaws to keep the stock in place and in the center. I don’t see how this can be done since I can’t adjust the jaws independently


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## Hidyn (Jul 17, 2018)

I came in here all ready to tell you about adjusting the other type of 4 jaw... I forgot that they made that type.

How bad does it wobble?

Have you managed to disassemble the whole works and clean it?

If it's clean and secured to the lathe, and your tool is cylindrical and not tapered, maybe you need to take a light cut on the inside of the jaws to true them up?

You might need to put a small coin or something in the back to give the jaws something to bite on, I've never actually done it, I just know it's something that is often done.


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## francist (Jul 17, 2018)

Apparently truing the insides of the soft jaws is not uncommon for the Taig chucks. I found several videos or web pages all presenting the same solution to minimize the runout. I just searched "truing Taig chuck jaws" and wound up with multiple hits on the same topic.

Seems a shame to have to do that though, as it will pretty much dictate the jaws stay in that orientation unless you want to true them every time you change them. I guess you could number them like regular scroll jaws, that might work. On the other hand, I guess that is the very nature of the "soft jaws" as opposed to hard ones.

-frank


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## mikey (Jul 17, 2018)

oskar said:


> Thanks Mike
> 
> I know how to use the Tommy bars but I was asking how I can adjust the jaws to keep the stock in place and in the center. I don’t see how this can be done since I can’t adjust the jaws independently



You can't without boring/truing the jaws; it's a scroll Chuck. Will a Sherline 4 jaw independent chuck fit? Same spindle thread but the register is different. I know some guys have used Sherline Chuck's on Taig stuff.


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## oskar (Jul 18, 2018)

I didn’t use a dial indicator yet because the wobble is noticeable right away although it’s minimal. I removed one jaw and there is grease behind it so next step is to mark the jaws location and clean it.

I have seen how they put a coin truing the inside of the jaws and perhaps I have to do this but first I will have to get a boring tool which I have none and never used one either. It’s not a job I would like to do since never used a lathe before. I was hoping to try the lathe first with some easy tasks to get the hang of it and then go to more difficult tasks.

However I think it’s not a type of a chuck I like because I find the Tommy bars very inconvenient to use. Is any other type of chuck recommended for this headstock besides Sherline?


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## francist (Jul 18, 2018)

I'm seeing a 4-jaw independant listed at Lee Valley Tools (item "G" in the photo below). That's somewhat more mainstream and may be a bit more to your liking? Didn't check on the cost.

-frank


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## P. Waller (Jul 18, 2018)

They look like soft jaws, if so turn them in place to the desired diameter.


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## Hidyn (Jul 18, 2018)

oskar said:


> I was hoping to try the lathe first with some easy tasks to get the hang of it and then go to more difficult tasks.




You can still use the scroll Chuck, just realise that until it's square, you won't be able to turn anything coaxial to the part inside the Chuck.

The work will still turn true and cylindrical, you will just need to remove a little more material at the start. 

It's all good! 

Although I do love a 4 jaw independent Chuck. They take more time to dial in, however I enjoy the process.


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## Mitch Alsup (Jul 18, 2018)

The trick to getting tight tolerances on the Taig is to put something round (like a dime) behind the jaws so there is equal tension on each jaw before skimming the nose of the jaw.


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## oskar (Jul 18, 2018)

Thanks Frank, I'm looking at this item and I may go for it, about $120 with taxes/ shipping

I was unable to take appart my chuck because it has at the back a circ clip 1.75" diameter and my circ clip tool does not open so much. Anyway I also noticed that the jaws were not screwed in fully and after cleaning the jaws and screw them properly now the wobble is not noticable and my dial meter shows a variance of 0-10 thousands. Not the best but much better than before


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## vtcnc (Jul 18, 2018)

I have the 4 jaw scroll chuck for the Taig. You can grind a small bit to true up the jaws and you will be fine. I found that after truing, you can snug the jaws up on your work piece and then get it to run with little to no runout. The Taig's are nice little machines and you can do close work if you take your time with them. You said you haven't used a lathe much. Truing up the jaws will get you more familiar with the lathe operations. Also check your chuck jaws to make sure they are seated properly. I found that the soft jaws can get a little marred up if you change them frequently and this can lead to them not going back on 100% square.


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## oskar (Jul 19, 2018)

vtcnc said:


> I have the 4 jaw scroll chuck for the Taig. You can grind a small bit to true up the jaws and you will be fine. I found that after truing, you can snug the jaws up on your work piece and then get it to run with little to no runout. The Taig's are nice little machines and you can do close work if you take your time with them. You said you haven't used a lathe much. Truing up the jaws will get you more familiar with the lathe operations. Also check your chuck jaws to make sure they are seated properly. I found that the soft jaws can get a little marred up if you change them frequently and this can lead to them not going back on 100% square.



Thank you Bryan
I have used the lathe along with the compound slide (which I converted to a milling slide) to mill some slots in aluminum but I never used the lathe yet for any other purpose. I have some 1/4” square HSS stock and I will make a boring bar and do try to fix the jaws.

I contemplate to get the 4 independently adjusted chuck part #1030 or the 3 scroll type jaws part #1050. Do you have any experience with either one to share? If you had to buy one which one would you say is the most versatile? 

Nicolas


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## vtcnc (Jul 19, 2018)

To say that one is more versatile than the other is a matter of opinion. 3 jaw scroll chucks are simple to use for round stock or hex stock. 4 jaw scrolls are great for turning square stock (provided you are happy with their accuracy - topic of this thread) A 4 jaw independent chuck as already mentioned is for entirely different purposes - like off center holding.

I also have the two chucks you mention for my Taig. They also fit my 109 which is nice. All of them have their own value in terms of how useful they are to you. One of the things about machining I love is the infinite number of tooling ideas available to us.

I sent you a PM - I have a PDF document that I can share with you on chuck restoration - let me know if you would like to take a look.


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## oskar (Jul 19, 2018)

I understand Bryan what you say and I think I will go for the 3 jaw scroll chuck for now.

I also got the PDF document you sent, much appreciated. Lots of useful information in there which I will print and study.

Thanks again
Nicolas


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## P. Waller (Jul 20, 2018)

A 4 Jaw independent chuck is the only way that work such as this can be done in a lathe. The bore is off center in one plane.

This job is drill 1.125" thru 8" then bore each end 1.181" 1.182" X 1.594" deep, the bores have to be concentric within .002". This took me roughly 1 hour of set up per part and 10 minutes of actual machining, this is extremely tedious work..

*If you do mostly round work an adjustable 3 Jaw scroll chuck is the way to go. Turn the jaws in place and have at it.*

If indeed you are unfortunate enough that your employer hands you all of the off center lathe work you are screwed, 4 jaw independent chucks are useful when needed.





You may also do things like this using different top jaws milled to suit the work.


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## Chip Hacket (Jul 22, 2018)

Nicolas, below is my setup for truing the 3 jaw scroll chuck.  The Taig tool holders are really hard to beat.  They are only a few dollars and can be modified to fit just about any application.  I should have insert a washer in the chuck here for completeness.


The Sherline chucks thread right up as well.  However you will need a washer because the thread gutter on the spindle is a little deep.




The independent 4 jaw chuck is of course better than any scroll chuck if you need to get spot on.  I use the Tubalcain 2 key method.




Below is the 1040 collet system.  Each one is only about $5 and they work really well for holding small work accurately.  There is a blank included for you to custom cut for your needs.  I would probably go with the ER16 if I were to buy again because more sizes are available.  May still yet.



I recommend Nick Carter  http://www.cartertools.com/ for all you're Taig needs.  He is outstanding to work with and his web site is definitely comprehensive.  I live on the east coast and he lives on the west.  I would rather pay extra shipping and buy from Nick.  He's not really a salesman.  He's a gadgeteer.


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