# TH54 Atlas lathe rebuild/refurb project (pic heavy)



## GoMopar440

This will be a SLOW going project as I have a couple other projects ahead of this one. I got this lathe from a motorcycle shop I worked part-time at in MS when I was stationed over there around 2002. They let me have it for free with all the tooling in the bench under it. They just wanted it out of there to free up that space in the shop. I toted it around with me till I retired from the Navy 2009, and then finally settled down in MT in 2011. I now have a permanent space I can set it up and work on it and built a sturdy bench for it. After that I got around to breaking it down to asses the overall condition. The bed is pretty worn but I'm going to address that issue after I get it back to being functional again. For now I just removed the worst dings on the edges of the ways so they wouldn't bump the saddle around as it travels on the ways.

When I disassembled it I found a few issues that needed attention:
- The upper side gear door had the lower hinge broken off (I had a local shop weld it back together recently)
- The QCGB (added sometime long before I got it) had a broken arm under it (this was fixed at the same time by the same shop that fixed the side door)
- The lead screw support bearing at the far end of the bed fell apart during disassembly (bought a beefy aluminum one with a bronze bushing from Ebay already)
- The electric motor pulley was banged around and will need to be replaced (I'm waiting till I verify that the motor is still good before getting a new pulley)
- The belts are pretty ratty and are long overdue to be replaced (I'm not sure if I want to use those twist belts or not. It depends if I need to take the head pulleys out or not)

I'm sure I'll find more things that need attention as I give the parts a thorough cleaning before repainting.

Today I cleaned up the bed and pedestals to get the years of swarf and congealed lubricants out of all the nooks and crannies. I also pulled the gear rack from the front of the bed and got the teeth and mating surfaces back to spotless condition. The teeth look great on the rack and the bed had zero rust on it. I had given it a thorough initial cleaning after I got it and had been keeping it oiled the entire time I had it, so that seems to have paid off. While the pedestals and rack were off I fixed up all the screw slots by tapping them with a small hammer and then cleaning them up with a file. Only one screw looked like it might give me a problem (it did). After degreasing and then wiping down the bed and pedestals I taped off the areas I didn't want painted. For the paint I picked up some Rust Stop paint from Ace in Medium Grey. So far I have a single coat on the bed and pedestals and let it dry enough for me to put the pedestals back on the bed. After I pulled the tape I then reinstalled the rack. This is where one of the screws that looked iffy gave me a slight problem. As I tightened it down the screw slot peeled away from both sides as it was brought to full torque. The screw is tight, but can't be made any tighter. Luckily the sides of the slot needed to remove the screw are still intact so I should be able to pull it out easily enough when I get a replacement screw. Since it's tight, I'll let it stay in place for now.

Here's the progress so far:











I found a bunch of photos from before the teardown that show what I had to start with, as well as a bunch of the accessories that came with it.














































I'll update this thread whenever I make progress on this project. The goal is to try to get it up and running this summer before I have to go back to school in August. I'm taking classes to get an AAS in Drafting Technology (mostly for the AutoCAD training).


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## GoMopar440

The milling attachment is missing a little wedge pin and the gib IIRC, but it's otherwise complete. I was kind of surprised at how much they go for on Ebay when I finally saw one on there while looking around for Atlas parts. The attachment will get cleaned up, painted and the missing parts replaced or remade as needed. Other than that it'll probably just end up on the wall as a conversation piece since I have the Bridgeport and the X2 to use for my milling jobs.

This lathe will primarily be used for stuff I can't fit on my 7x14 mini-lathe. The small spindle bore is the main limiting factor, but the long bed helps to make up for it. I plan to put an AXA type QCTP on it when I can swing the funds to buy one and some extra tool holders for it.


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## robert1352

This is going to be a great project!! I cant wait for more pictures.


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## ML_Woy

GoMopar440 said:


> The milling attachment is missing a little wedge pin and the gib IIRC, but it's otherwise complete. I was kind of surprised at how much they go for on Ebay when I finally saw one on there while looking around for Atlas parts. The attachment will get cleaned up, painted and the missing parts replaced or remade as needed. Other than that it'll probably just end up on the wall as a conversation piece since I have the Bridgeport and the X2 to use for my milling jobs.
> 
> This lathe will primarily be used for stuff I can't fit on my 7x14 mini-lathe. The small spindle bore is the main limiting factor, but the long bed helps to make up for it. I plan to put an AXA type QCTP on it when I can swing the funds to buy one and some extra tool holders for it.



Looks like a great project and the price was right! I think the best thing about the lathe is the gearbox that was added to it. I upgraded my Craftsman 12" a year ago with a gearbox and it has made a big difference in its' functionality. I also bought a tangential tool holder for use with my quickchange toolpost. A great addition. Did the lathe come with the proper gear cover. I had to change my gear cover when I added my gearbox. I found it on E-Bay. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

M.L.Woy


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## GoMopar440

Yes, the upper and lower gear side covers for the QCGB came with it. Looks like it was a well done and thorough conversion as all the right factory parts appear to be there. 

The upper side cover got the lower hinge broken off in one of the many moves I dragged this lathe through, but it's been welded back together already.


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## GoMopar440

Didn't get much of a chance to work on the lathe today. I was fixing the carriage door on the barn to get it where it can swing freely again. All I did get done was to clean up the threading dial and get it spinning again. Whatever was inside of it had hardened up and locked the shaft to the body of the part. I finally got it freed up with a combination of purple power degreaser and brake parts spray by working it back and forth and tapping it up and down. It cleaned up nice but I didn't have my phone with me to get any pics today.


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## GoMopar440

I got a few more parts cleaned up and painted today. Both upper and lower gear train side covers, side cover mount bracket, lead screw end support bushing, faceplate, thread dial and the Atlas lantern wrench. I also gave the bed and feet a second coat of paint while the brush was still wet. The lead screw was also cleaned up and it looks almost like new now. BTW: The cover that was repaired was the lower one, not the upper. The shop did a good job of fixing it and you'll never be able to tell it was ever repaired unless you open the cover since the weld is only visible from the inside.





The hinge pin for the side doors was bent pretty bad at the beginning of the threaded part so I tried to straighten it out. Unfortunately the bend was in the threaded area and it snapped in two before it ever got close to being straight again. I'll just make a new pin on the 7x14 lathe to replace it since it's a very simple part to make. The two broken pieces are all the way to the right in this pic.


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## GoMopar440

Yesterday I made a new hinge pin out of some 3/8" CRS I had in the shop. I used a die for the threads and it came out fine. I did have to move the shaft to the bench vise to keep it from spinning while I was tapping it though. Here it is assembled with the doors on after polishing it up a bit.





Today I worked on the tailstock, getting it all torn down and inspecting for wear as I cleaned up the parts. So far everything in the tailstock assembly looks to be in good shape and perfectly serviceable. After cleaning the main body I took a file to the top surface to remove some hammer marks where someone had been using it as a small anvil.:angry: Once again everything got a coat of paint after all the parts were taped off and hung up for painting.





Tomorrow I'll start on the saddle, apron and cross slide assemblies. I got a little bit of a head start by pulling a couple of handles off the saddle and cleaning them up tonight before calling it a night.


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## schor

Great job so far. I didn't notice it in the post, what type of paint are you using?

I've got a th54 also. But no QC. Mine is in use and is going to be restored over time piece by piece.


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## GoMopar440

jamesjinks said:


> How is the Ace Rust Stop working for you? :thinking:





schor said:


> I didn't notice it in the post, what type of paint are you using?



It's Ace brand (hardware store here in the USA) Rust Stop paint and it's ok for what it is. It would probably go on better with a primer coat under it. The paint color (Medium Grey) on the label looks like an exact match for the original Atlas Grey, but it actually came out more of a light grey, even after a LOT of shaking to get it mixed up well. Without primer it looks like most pieces will need two coats to get even and complete coverage of the parts. If I wait a little while (1/2 hour or so) after applying the first coat I can add the second coat while the first is still tacky. The second coat sticks better and tends to self level that way. I've been using regular bristle brushes to apply the paint.



nine4gmc said:


> looks really nice, how did you clean the chrome up so well?



I start by using Purple Power to degrease the parts first and then address any flaws with files, 3M scrubby pads and sand paper as needed. After that it depends on the part what I do with it next. Usually I will hit it with the wire wheel (usually not on chrome parts though) on my bench grinder and if I really need it to shine up I'll swap over to the buffing wheel on the other side of the grinder. I have been using a grey polishing compound (got it from HF but it's also available at Home Depot/Lowes) on the cotton wheel for all of these parts so far.

Today was I only working on cleaning up and inspecting the saddle and apron parts. It's a bit more involved than the other parts I've done so far so it's taking a bit longer for this assembly. I've got it about 3/4 cleaned up before calling it a night. Some of the internal apron parts were a bit rougher than I liked and some of the parts were hanging up on each other (half nuts, slide and scroll mostly). Those pieces got a full debur job after the normal cleanup. The half nut threads look about 50% washed out so I'll need to get a new set of half nuts for it soon. The miter gear has the internal spline broken off and someone made an interesting field repair for it. It looks sturdy enough to hold up so I'll put that back together as I found it for now. I'll order a new mitre gear when I get the half nuts.








Close up example of the polishing. These parts slide like butter now.)




Here's the mitre gear fix I found. They brazed a key to the collar on the end opposite the teeth.




I may be going just a little bit overboard with the polishing...:whistle:


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## GoMopar440

I'm trying out some Rustoleum brand Self-Etching Primer on the saddle and apron to see if it helps the top coat lay down any better. I'll let you all know how it works out, but so far it seems to be working fairly well. I forgot to get some pics of the parts after I painted over the primer. I also dismantled the cross slide and painted it today as well.


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## TOOLMASTER

lol..




nine4gmc said:


> You're going to need a mirror drip pan to show off her undercarriage:winner:
> View attachment 55598


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## GoMopar440

Ok you got me there. :LOL: But if I did put mirrors under there, I wouldn't get anything done as I'd always be wiping it down. Probably best not to go there... :rofl:

Got an early start on it today, but my back pain keeps my time in the shop limited, so I came back in the house after a couple of hours working out there. At least I had a helper with me today. He made sure the shop rags didn't jump out of the box and get underfoot.




I started peeling all the tape off the newly painted parts and putting the small parts back onto the bigger ones.




I used some red waterproof grease on the sliding surfaces during reassembly.




Since I plan on mounting an AXA type QCTP to the slide, I went ahead and face milled the top of the compound rest on the Bridgeport. I only took a cleanup cut of .003-.005 more once I hit original narrow flat area around the slot so I wouldn't weaken the slide too much.




Got the compound rest screw reassembled, but still need to get the gib and adjuster screws reinstalled. 




This is where I had to call it quits for a while. If I feel up to it I may try to get back out to the shop later on today or tonight.


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## woodtickgreg

Wow, glad I found this one. Your doing a great job and she looks better than new, it will be fun to watch.


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## ddushane

Looking good MoparMan! You doing a great job!

Dwayne


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## Old Iron

Great job on the Lathe its looking like a better than new one kepp up the good work.

Paul


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## GoMopar440

Glad you are liking the thread so far. I'm hoping that documenting this project will help out others with similar lathes.

Today I got the saddle, apron and cross slide reassembled and adjusted to fit the gibs and ways. I put in a little resistance on the gibs to take up slack from previous wear, but not enough to make it difficult to move. The fit is about as close as I'm willing to make it since the gibs are all steel and not brass or bronze.




After the saddle assembly was set I started cleaning up a few small loose parts like the lantern tool post and some tool holders. I also cleaned up the spare set jaws for the 3-Jaw chuck which led to me starting on the chuck itself. It's a bit stiff so I cleaned up the outside and pulled the jaws off it to get those cleaned up as well. I need to find my impact driver to get the screws off the back plate before I can get it apart to clean the scroll. One nice thing I found while cleaning it was under the crud I found the Atlas name (in cursive script) with the number "67" above it. There was also the part number and "Made in USA" stamped on the face.




I went ahead and grabbed the 4-jaw to begin cleaning it up next. Three of the four jaws were locked up almost solid so I got some PB Blaster on it to start soaking into the threads. The jaw that was able to move gave me a little bit of an issue with the chuck key. The key was made for the 3-Jaw, but was a little too fat to fit the 4-Jaw without binding against the underside of the jaw. I took the key over to my 7x14 lathe and turned a 1/2" long shoulder just above the tip that was about .050 smaller than the original diameter, When I tested it with the jaw and screw, it now just barely clears without binding. The tip is a little smaller than needed for the 4-jaw, but it works for now. I'll make a couple of new keys for both chucks before I start using them on any parts. After the PB Blaster had some time to work it's magic, I was able to remove the other jaws one at a time. The jaws and adjuster screws all got the wire wheel treatment and came out looking fairly decent. The body of the chuck wasn't too bad under the shallow surface rust and grime and looks to be in good condition overall. The face was marked similar to the other chuck with "Atlas - Kalamazoo Mich", "Made in USA" and an Atlas part number. There was also another number stamped on it, "8-47", but I'm not sure what that one is for.


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## wa5cab

GOMOPAR,

I hope, when you finish the overhaul, that it doesn't look so good that you are afraid to use it.  :thumbsup:

One comment I'll make, though, has nothing to do with the work you have been doing.  Although they could if both sets were fitted to the chuck, chucks don't normally come with spare jaws.  If you have two sets of jaws that look alike, one set likely came with your chuck and at least when new was accurate WRT centering.  The other set, although if made for the same model chuck will fit fine, can be expected to have much more runout even if they have no wear.  At the factory (at least a decent factory) the jaws that ship with a 3-jaw chuck are fitted to the chuck by grinding (same process you can use to restore accuracy to worn jaws).  

If the two sets of jaws don't look alike, then probably one is the "normal" set, good for parts OD or ID up to about two-thirds the chuck diameter.  The other is for larger parts with diameters up to about the chuck diameter.  Or to put it another way, good 3-jaw chucks with one piece jaws come with two sets of jaws, one for smaller and one for larger diameter work pieces.  They are often erroneously called OD and ID jaws.

Independant jaw chucks, like most 4-jaw ones, only come with one set of jaws which can be turned around so as to handle the same diameter range.

Robert D.

***I also cleaned up the spare set jaws for the 3-Jaw chuck***


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## GoMopar440

The jaws are only different in that one set steps down to the inside and the other steps down towards the outside. Both sets of jaws are number stamped (1, 2 or 3) so the jaws are only aligned when placed in the matching numbered slot on the chuck body. The stamps all match perfectly in both size and font, so I wouldn't be surprised to find that both sets are probably original to this chuck. The 3-jaw chuck I got for my 7x14 lathe is similar in that it also came with two sets of jaws. One set for ID work and the other for OD work. BTW: I understand what you mean about the jaw nomenclature, but it's hard to break the habit of calling them ID and OD jaws. That's what my instructors always called them in Machinery Repairman (MR) "A" school where I first learned machining many years ago.

Don't worry about it being a garage queen. It's only going to look this good until the first chips start to fly. It will be used regularly as a working machine like it was intended. Granted I'll be more inclined to _keep it cleaned up_ after using it because of all the effort that's going into now. All in all that's a good thing. :thumbzup:


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## woodtickgreg

GoMopar440 said:


> Don't worry about it being a garage queen. It's only going to look this good until the first chips start to fly. It will be used regularly as a working machine like it was intended. Granted I'll be more inclined to _keep it cleaned up_ after using it because of all the effort that's going into now. All in all that's a good thing. :thumbzup:



I feel the same way about the restore I did on my south bend heavy ten, I made it nice but I did also intend to use it. And like you said, keeping it clean will be easier too. She's looking really good and I am enjoying watching your progress and following along.


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## wa5cab

OK.  Funny thing is that although I've heard the two sets of jaws referred to as ID and OD for years, I never knew which set was called which.  

Robert D. AKA Gunner


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## GoMopar440

Got a little more done with both of the chucks today. The 4-Jaw got another round of cleaning to get the rest of the deep crud off the back side and rinsed off with carb cleaner before getting a coat of paint (back side only).




As far as the two sets of jaws for the 3-Jaw, here's a few close up pics to show the details better. Each set is lined up in order, #1, #2, #3 and I tried to get them aligned so you can see the way the teeth are staggered for the scroll. The pointy ends of the jaws are meant to point to the center on both sets. The flatter outside ends (opposite the points) are where the numbers are stamped.













I was able to get the chuck screws out fairly easily by using a cordless hammer drill and a correctly fitting screwdriver bit. The front and back came apart in halves easily enough, but the scroll needed a bit of persuasion (hammer and a punch) to finally come out of the chuck body. The inside was fairly clean, but the scroll plate was a little buggered up on the gear teeth side. A little time with a fine file knocked the rough edges down. The tops of the scroll had a few burrs that were also smoothed over with the file as well.  The wire wheel smoothed everything out on both sides of the scroll ring afterwards. I polished the key gear surfaces that ride in the chuck body and cleaned up a few teeth on it as well. The body was then cleaned and degreased with carb cleaner and I used some red waterproof grease on the sliding contact points between the scroll and the chuck body as well as on the gear teeth. The scroll ring went back on easier than it came off, but it was still a close fit.




When I put the six screws back in and tightened it down the chuck was smoother, with minimal backlash in the key gear to the scroll ring teeth. The chuck body got a little fine tuning with a file just on the outer edges of the openings for the jaws where there were a couple of small dents that were hindering the jaws. I tried each set of jaws on the chuck and they appear to be timed well. All three jaws meet in the center of the chuck simultaneously on both sets of jaws. Along with my initial observations of the parts, this leads me to believe that both sets of jaws are most likely original to this chuck. I can't get a way to measure for runout until the lathe is back together and I can mount the chuck up to check it.


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## Mach2009

I joined this forum because I ran across this thread.  I bought one of these lathes, and started taring it down for a full restoration.  I'm just enough behind your progress that I can use it as a guide.  Thanks for all the information you are offering.  The motor on mine was seized up.  I took it apart, and after cleaning the rust out of it I can't remember how to put it back together.  Staying tuned here, to see if you will have to take yours apart too.  Maybe then I can put mine back together the right way.  Thanks again


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## GoMopar440

I'm glad this project is helping others with their own lathes. I'll try to keep it going with notes and pictures of the process as best as I can. If there's anything anyone needs any details on just throw the question out there and I'll answer it as best as I can.

The motor on this lathe was disconnected sometime before I got it. I was told that the old machinist that was using it wanted to use the motor for a project of some kind. However it never got further than him disconnecting it from the lathe before he passed away. I'm not sure if the pulley was broken before or after I got it, but either way it will have to be replaced before I can get this lathe up and running. The power cord is very old and the outer insulation is cracked through to the wires every couple of inches. I'll need to replace the power cord as well as the pulley before using it.


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## Stephen Tegner

Your rebuild looks fantastic! Its great inspiration for when I finally get mine and start the restoration.)


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## Stephen Tegner

I notice that the Atlas chuck only has one tightening lug, this is strange and something I have never seen this before. I presume it works just as well as having the three tightening lugs?


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## GoMopar440

I didn't get out to the shop today long enough to do anything useful. I did however try plugging in the motor and seeing if it would even spin up. I did get it to spin, but it usually required a little help to get the shaft turning. I'm not sure if the power cord is putting too much resistance on the incoming voltage, the starting capacitor is getting weak or some other problem. Either way the motor will need a tune up, a new power cord and new pulley before it's ready to be put back into service.

- - - Updated - - -



Stephen Tegner said:


> I notice that the Atlas chuck only has one tightening lug, this is strange and something I have never seen this before. I presume it works just as well as having the three tightening lugs?



Now that you mention it, I believe it's probably the only one like that (single lug) I've ever come across before. I'd prefer to have three lugs on the chuck for balancing if nothing else. If I had to guess, I'd say it's probably a cost cutting measure designed in to save a few bucks. These aren't very high speed lathes AFAIK so the balance issue wouldn't be as severe as on a high speed machine.


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## Stephen Tegner

Yes I was thinking about the balance of the lathe, also if the one cog gets worn it might be problematic, the lathe I am getting has the babbit bearings so slow speeds are not an issue.

- - - Updated - - -



Stephen Tegner said:


> Yes I was thinking about the balance of the lathe, also if the one cog gets worn it might be problematic, the lathe I am getting has the babbit bearings so slow speeds are not an issue.



That should read balance of the CHUCK, idiot that I am.


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## GoMopar440

I didn't like the feel of the QCGB shifting when I tried moving the levers after I had it off the lathe, so I already knew it was going to get a full teardown. The levers felt sticky but overly loose and kind of jerky when they did move. After looking it over carefully, I started loosening all the locking grub screws and then pulled it all apart. Some of the parts needed to come out first to get out of the way before others could be removed. I'm sure there's a "Best" way to disassemble it, but I just took my time and kept at it till I had it all apart. The last bit to come off was the data plate on the front. To remove that I tapped the little screw rivets (not sure of the exact name for them) from the inside to raise them up a bit. Then I carefully grabbed under the heads with a pair of side cutting pliers, and gently wiggled them out. 

The shaft ends all look like they were run without oil for a while at the ends where they ride in the bushings. The bushings didn't have any oil holes in them coming from the oil cups. I'm not sure if that was an oversight when someone may have replaced the bushings in the past, or the wear filled the holes with metal flakes. Either way, it looks like I'll need to get all new shafts and bushings to get this unit back up to 100% condition. 

I'm considering reassembling it as is for now until I can find (and afford) the needed replacement parts. I'll definitely have to open up or drill the oil holes in the bushings first though.

My phone was on the charger in the house so I didn't get any pics today.


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## wa5cab

It is also possible that the bushing are made of sintered bronze.  One trade-name is Oilite.  These are porous, and wouldn't need an oil hole aligned with the oil supply hole in the QC body casting.  I meant to call Clausing last week and ask about that but forgot.

Robert D.


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## GoMopar440

The 4th of July holiday and a boat load of honey-do's have been keeping me off this project for a little bit, but I'm going to be getting back into it very shortly.

I'm familiar with Oilite bronze as I've used it to make bushings before. These bushings don't seem to have the same sort of fuzzy feel to them as Oilite, and the wear looks like what I'd expect to see on brass or regular bronze. I'd like to get some Oilite to remake all the bushings, but it's not going to happen soon due to lack of funds right now. For now I'll have to put it back together as is till I can get some material to make new bushings with. I'll also be on the lookout for some new shafts for the QCGB as well. If I cant find any shafts I'll probably turn down the ends and shrink fit some oversized sleeves onto them and turn them back down to the original sizes. I'll be sure to drill the oil holes through the bushings so I can keep the wear from getting any worse than it is right now.


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## GoMopar440

Today I cleaned the QCGB housing shell up a bit more till it was ready for paint. I decided to not paint the area under the levers as it just gets scratched up when the locking pins drag across it. Instead I polished that area from the bottom of the label tag to the notched lip at the bottom front edge and all the way across from side to side. I taped off the polished area and plugged the shaft holes to keep the paint out of the bushings. I used the self etching primer first and let it dry while I worked on some other parts.





Next I was cleaning up the motor and tried to pull the pulley off the shaft. It was stuck on pretty well so I sprayed it with PB Blaster to loosen it up. The larger pulley wasn't useable any more so I decided to cut it off and just clean up the smaller pulley for now. I took an angle grinder with a thin 4" cut off wheel and started slicing the inside of the larger pulley all the way around till it finally came apart. I left enough material all the way around so I could clean it up on the little lathe. The heat from cutting the pulley helped the PB work the pulley hub loose from the shaft. Once I had it off it only took a couple of minutes to get the pulley cleaned up on the lathe.





The motor and mounting base got cleaned up next and the base got a coat of primer as well.





After the primer had dried I painted the QCGB housing and the motor mounting base. While the paint was drying I cleaned and polished the QCGB chart plate that goes on the front. I ended up removing the red paint in the process, but that's fine with me since I'm not a fan of the color red anyway. After the paint was dry I pulled the tape and plugs off and remounted the front plate onto the QCGB housing. I just tapped the screw rivets back into place (not hard enough to dimple the plate) and they all went back in place nice and tight. I hung one of the front levers in place to show what I'm doing with those (yup, more polishing).





And that's where I left off for tonight.


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## woodtickgreg

Making good progress! I did the same thing with my gear box and polished the flat area too. Looking good, I am enjoying watching your progress. Keep the pics coming.


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## GoMopar440

The cleaning seems to have unexpectedly done the motor some good. Now it starts up every time with no help needed to get it started. :allgood:

The V-belt groove in the small pulley is worn down to a U shape. It'll probably work for now, but it's just another thing added to the ever growing "need to replace" list.

I pulled the drum switch apart and cleaned up the internal contacts as well as the outer shell and switch handle. The switch handle and name plate got polished and everything else was painted black. The only black paint I had was flat. Gloss would have been better IMHO, but this is good enough for me. 




I painted the motor, support arm and drum switch housing with the same flat black paint. After it dried I bolted it back onto the motor plate and reassembled the drum switch.





One more sub assembly finished, and just a couple more to go before I can get it all back together and up and running.


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## aforsman

I've really enjoyed seeing your pics.  I'm currently restoring my grandfather's TH54 - it looks like you're a little bit ahead of me.  I had to scrap the pulley on my motor after I got a little overzealous with the gear puller when I tried to remove it.  Before I realized what was happening, the flange of the larger pulley tore out.  I tried to bend it back in and braze it, but this Zamak stuff doesn't cooperate very well when it comes to repairs.  I ended up finding a used one on Ebay for a decent price.  It has a larger diameter (5/8") than my motor (1/2"), so I made a sleeve bushing for it on my 7x14 lathe.  You mentioned being stationed in Mississippi in one of your posts.  Since I live in MS, I was just wondering where you were stationed.

Allen


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## GoMopar440

I'll most likely have to keep an eye on ebay for a pulley when I get ready to fire it up. 

The house needed a bit of attention on some fairly major projects so that slowed me down for a while. Now the project is currently back on hold since I started with the fall semester of college again. At least I'll have some time to gather some more parts for when I get back to work on it over the winter break.

I was stationed on Naval Station Pascagoula, MS at SIMA (Shore Intermediate Maintenance Activity) working in the machine shop there from 2000 to 2003.


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## aforsman

Go figure.  I was born and raised in Pascagoula.  I live a little over an hour away now near Picayune.  That navy base you were stationed at was built on an island made from all the dredgings from the channel.  When I was a kid it was simply called "the mud lump".

I took vacation this week and I'm cleaning and painting all of the cast iron pieces.  My lathe was passed down to me from my grandfather (in Pascagoula) before he passed away a few years back.  I remember being fascinated with it when I was a kid.  I was talking to my grandmother on the phone last night and mentioned that I was working on the lathe again and she informed me that my grandfather obtained it from his father, so it would actually make it my great grandfather's lathe.  I found the date engraved into the bearing race when I removed the spindle - 12/23/42.  Pretty cool.  I plan on posting some pics of mine when I'm done.


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## wa5cab

aforsman,

Please post the model number and serial number with the bearing date (or dates, if the two are not the same).

Robert D.


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## aforsman

Model TH54
Serial #041945
Bearing/race #1 - 12/23/42
Bearing/race #2 - 12/29/42


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## wa5cab

Thanks.

Robert D.


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## aforsman

Robert,

If you don't mind me asking, what is the significance of having that info - do you have some kind of database you're putting it into for historical purposes?  Also, I didn't notice until reassembly that there was a "3" etched on one side and an "8" on the other.  Do you know what these represent?  

Thanks,
Allen


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## wa5cab

Allen,

I was plugging them into a database on Yahoo which wasn't too badly designed. However, the new Yahoo Database version, unlike the Files, appears to be basically unusable. Fortunately, I had downloaded the information before their big change. So I still have the data, plus that from several other places. Unfortunately, very few records actually have verifiable or believable dates.

As to what it's useful for, realistically the only two things are dating machines without pulling the spindle and dating model changes. One of the several questions a new owner (of an old lathe) always seems to ask is when their machine was built or sold. Unlike several of the other manufacturers, Clausing has lost all production records on both the Atlas and the early (before about 1980) Clausing machines. So they are no help.

I haven't thought of an explanation for the "3" or the "8".  If I come up with a possibility, I'll let you know.  If there was only one number, we might guess that it ID'd the inspector.  My best guess on the meaning of the dates is that they are receipt inspection dates, probably done by Atlas/Clausing as Timken doesn't seem to have been doing that on their other production.  There have been reported cases whether the two dates were up to nearly a year apart.

Robert D.


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## aforsman

Very interesting - thanks.  I was guessing that the other numbers may have represented the person who machined it or a quality inspector.


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## maxfli1707

I noticed the change of dates were very far apart on one of the three of the 12" 54's at the shop here . I actually have to take apart the head stock again tomorrow of the newest find to check on an out of line bearing in the race . Can post what the the numbers are or even better pic them for the thread .


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## drs23

Bump to see how this project is coming along. Very impressed with the progress so far.


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## GoMopar440

It's temporarily on hold till the fall semester is over. I'm going to be picking up some Oilite bronze to fix the bushings in the QCGB when I start up on it again over the winter break.


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## Phonnold

Tagging this thread so that I can use it as a reference.  I am about to start the same process on a TH42 that I have recently picked up.  One question that comes to mind would be along the lines of there being anything that you wish you would have done different yet?  The pictures that you have listed so far show some amazing work but it seems like there is always something we wish we could have done differently, hind sight being 20/20 and all.  Do you have anything that stands out to you up to this point in the rebuild?


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## GoMopar440

Maybe some X-ray glasses so I could have seen some of the worn out bits before taking it apart. LOL.

But seriously, it's going about how I expected for a machine of it's type and age. Nothing really stands out as being completely unexpected so far as I can recall.


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## aforsman

> it seems like there is always something we wish we could have done  differently, hind sight being 20/20 and all.  Do you have anything that  stands out to you up to this point in the rebuild?



I just completed my TH54 a few weeks ago and I have a few observations:

1) Take LOTS of pictures before you tear anything apart.  Each major piece has several sub-assemblies and putting all that stuff back together can result in a lot of head-scratching if there is more than a few days between disassembly and reassembly.  Detailed pics of each assembled piece REALLY helps when you're putting it all back together.  When you're on a roll tearing stuff apart, it can be really tempting not to stop and take pics along the way, especially when your hands are coated with dirt and grease, but do the best you can (get help from wife, kid, etc. if available).

2) Put a box of quart size ziploc bags and a sharpie on the bench and use them to keep track of various small parts as you take them off.

3) I had almost no rust, but TONS of caked on grease.  I tried a lot of different solvents along the way (starting fluid, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, mineral spirits, engine degreaser, purple power, oven cleaner).  For overall heavy degreasing, I found the oven cleaner to be the most effective and cost efficient with the least amount of work required - just have to use it in an open area because of the fumes.  For lighter grease on large parts, soaking with purple power and scrubbing with a wire brush worked well.  The carb and brake cleaners work great for spot cleaning in hard-to-reach areas, but I used them sparingly due to the fumes and cost.  I have a small electric pressure washer which was also a life-saver for rinsing the large pieces after soaking in oven cleaner/purple power.  Mineral spirits seemed to work well for soaking small parts (mainly nuts/bolts) overnight.  Just fill a mason jar with mineral spirits and drop the parts in.  Use a magnet for easy retrieval from the mineral spirits.

4) Take some overall before/after pics and post them when you're done so we can share your success with you.

Have fun!!!

Allen


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## woodtickgreg

+1 on the ziplocks and sharpie. When I did my lathe I bagged and tagged everything, it made it much easier to clean parts in sub assemblies and re assemble. That's great advise, pics too!


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## wa5cab

aforsman,

This is a little late to be replying to this, but I think that if you look again at your serial number you will find that it is actually 04194S, not 5.  A five digit serial number is much too high for 1942, but I didn't catch it at the time.

Also. maxfli1707, if you still have the serial numbers and dates off of the three Craftsman 12x36's you mentioned, could you either post them or send them to me in a PM?

Robert D.



aforsman said:


> Model TH54
> Serial #041945
> Bearing/race #1 - 12/23/42
> Bearing/race #2 - 12/29/42


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## jster1963

Great job!


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## aforsman

> This is a little late to be replying to this, but I think that if you  look again at your serial number you will find that it is actually  04194S, not 5.  A five digit serial number is much too high for 1942,  but I didn't catch it at the time.



Robert,

Thanks for the info.  I guess that's a good indication I've hit middle age - 5's and S's look just alike now )

Allen


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## ddushane

Very Very Sweet!


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## george wilson

a lathe milling attachment is useful for milling the groove for the extractor on gun barrels,even if you have a milling machine. Easier than tilting the head 90 degrees,or mounting a 90 degree attachment.(Well,maybe.)


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## wa5cab

Additional data collected over the past 6 months (including three nearby examples, only one of which ended in "5" or "S") cause me to conditionally change my statement about the "5" in your serial number being an "S".  It appears more likely that you had it right to begin with.  I'll continue collecting examples.  Maybe one day we will know for certain.

Robert D.



aforsman said:


> Model TH54
> Serial #041945
> Bearing/race #1 - 12/23/42
> Bearing/race #2 - 12/29/42


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## Round in circles

I've thoroughly enjoyed the thread so far guys,
 One tip I can give you all  is that when you have wheels & pulley's or anything made of alloy metals on steel shafts that is tight to take off is to enclose the area/item  in a thick walled cardboard box and light up a 100 watt mains bulb in the enclosed box for eight or more hours so the gentle heat can expand all parts .

Then after switching off the lamp 8 or more hours later squirt in your free off stuff in the joint area and gently start wriggling the part you want to come off and tapping it  with a block of wood .  Don't use pullers or start braying with a hammer  as though you want to kill it for that's what you'll surely do .

Don't use gas  or oxy /acet torches to heat the alloy for your likely to melt it , gentle heat dissipated through out is what does the trick almost every time . It's how we used to put steel gudgeon pins in or pull them out ..those pins  join the crankshaft  connecting rod to the engines pistons in days of yore before circlips became the norm.

 The bigger the item your working with the longer the heating period required , remember aluminium & zinc alloy coefficients of linear expansion are greater than steel so you in effect expand the joint apart .

Sometimes for big casings like cast iron or alloy gear boxes we used live steam to heat wooden  or steel box  enclosure for four or five hours . Occasionally you can boil up a part in clean plain water in a steel drum/bucket out on the BBQ if you have big side burners . The use your freeing oils etc. after you have pulled the hot part out of the water .


 I wouldn't recommend using the oven in the kitchen as the heat source as most of the time it will be either be too cold or too hot  and dry as well as stinking out the homestead and like as not causing a fire .


 The tip of taking pictures is good , in this digital age we can take 10,000 pics for almost nothing .  It is also worth while to take several pictures of an item from different angles before , during and after and as you take them apart then scribble a greasy picture number referenced note in pencil on a pad of stapled up scrap paper as to what each shot actually is and what your trying to concentrate upon. Pencils write on greasy paper fairly well .

 There is nothing more amusing than trying to find a home for the last piece in the Ziploc bag  after eight months of rest time once you have almost fully assembled the item from 67 other bits , only to find that you never realized you hadn't got a picture of it  and which would have been part No five in your photographic sequences as you took things apart .     Guess how I know?

 This is especially important with screws which are same thread & diameter  but of different lengths .
You can also use a cardboard box side with a drawing plan and make holes where each bolt came out of then slip the bolt in the nominated hole .  In my time I've often come across casings where the bolt has popped through because it was not the correct bolt for the hole ..made me wonder where the shorter bold was and what problem that had cause by being in the wrong hole . I've also had numerous occasions  cases where I have had to depth gauge each blind hole to find the correct bolt length for the cast iron & alloy casings because someone dumped all of the removed couple of hundred nuts , bolts & washers in a bag & I've had to finish their job many weeks /months later or asi n one case about 18 years later.


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## Strtspdlx

For disassembly I tend to lay everything out in order I remove it. snap a picture throw it in a bag. I have good memory for parts though so I rarely ever do it. But if I'm unsure I'll lay it out and snap a picture


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## caveBob

GoMopar440 said:


> It's temporarily on hold till the fall semester is over. I'm going to be picking up some Oilite bronze to fix the bushings in the QCGB when I start up on it again over the winter break.



FWIW, I ordered plastic bushings to replace the original bronze bearings on my QCGB:

Igus iglide bushings
http://www.igus.com/iglide?C=US&L=en

iglide® vs. bronze bushings
http://www.igus.com/wpck/6410/plastic_bushings

iglide® plastic bushings: product selection tool
http://www.igus.com/wpck/7174/productoverview_iglidur

I have them ready now, in the box waiting for me to get back to "that project", but curious if anyone here has experience with them?


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## GoMopar440

I'm back in the land of the living... mostly. I had to have a second back surgery on Nov 12 and have just recently been cleared to start physical therapy. Now I'm just waiting for the VA to authorize the PT visits first before I can begin. 

I started working on the X2 CNC conversion project a little bit already. I want to finish that before I start working on the Atlas again. I haven't been able to work for quite a while due to my back issues, so money has been pretty tight around here lately. As a result I can only work on one project at a time until my financial situation improves. :/

For the bushings in the QCGB I still need to pick up the Oilite to make the bushings from. The QCGB shafts will be turned down at the worn ends and then I plan on making some interference fit sleeves to repair the areas that ride in the bushings.


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## Rob

[QUOTE="GoMopar440, post: 287846, member: 973]
For the bushings in the QCGB I still need to pick up the Oilite to make the bushings from. The QCGB shafts will be turned down at the worn ends and then I plan on making some interference fit sleeves to repair the areas that ride in the bushings.[/QUOTE]

The bushings are standard bushings that you should be able to get at the local hardware store. Should be easier and cheaper than making them.


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## MDof2

Any pics or updates to the finish of the rebuild? I just picked one up myself, so found this thread a great inspiration for my project. 
Thanks for sharing and posting.


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## GoMopar440

Honestly I haven't touched this project much since I had my second back surgery, another double disk laminectomy (sp?) in Nov 2014. I've got a total of four disks removed and fused now. The recovery process has been a lot slower than I would have hoped.

One of the biggest hold ups is the condition of the internals on the QCGB. There was a broken cast part that I was able to get rewelded but the bushings for the shafts inside the box have substantial wear with corresponding wear on the gear shafts themselves. This machine was likely run without oil for far too long in it's previous life before I got it. I'm hoping to get back into restoring it once the weather warms up. It'd be nice to finally be able to use this thing.

I still have to finish converting my HF mini mill over to CNC as well. It's about 80% done right now and has also been sitting since my surgery. At least I have a full size Bridgeport mill (all manual w/a Mintoyo (sp?) 2 axis DRO) and a 7"x14" Micro Mark mini lathe to help me make the parts I need for these projects. The A2Z QCTP on the mini lathe is reaching it's limitations though and I really need to get something quite a bit more solid for it.


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## MDof2

Thanks for the updates on it. Best of luck in the continued recovery. 
I'll keep watching the thread. Perhaps one day, you'll get back in the shop and tinker with it some more.


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## pontiac428

I'm using my first post on this board to thank you for the work you've posted so far.  Your project is what brought me here.  I'm also a vet who had a ruined back, things have been going well for me in that department since '09 when the VA sprung for my robot parts.  Anyway, best of luck and I hope you get back to your Atlas project!


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