# New Sherline Lathe Cutting Tool Recommendations Needed.



## heliyardsale (Nov 30, 2015)

Greetings everyone,
I just took delivery of a new Sherline 4400C lathe with a DRO and would I'd like some advice in purchasing indexable cutters for my new lathe. I have a larger craftsman/atlas that I've used HHS cutters with but I'd like to start using indexable cutters on the Sherline if possible. Can anyone recommend a nice set that will work with the standard Sherline holder?

Thanks in advance for your advice..


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## heliyardsale (Nov 30, 2015)

Found these for 19.99 C2 probably junk. Input?


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## kvt (Nov 30, 2015)

check Ebay I think that is where I got my set,   I have used them for some things, but often go back to the HSS,   Mine is a 1/4 set and them fit the Sherline tool holders.   I have both Rocker style and the old hard style.  But looking at getting a quick change at some point as I often have to change bits often for different cuts on some pieces .


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## kvt (Nov 30, 2015)

Thinking about it,  those HF ones are low cost and should give you a starting point to test with.   Then if you like them go for better ones after that.


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## mikey (Dec 2, 2015)

heliyardsale said:


> Greetings everyone,
> I just took delivery of a new Sherline 4400C lathe with a DRO and would I'd like some advice in purchasing indexable cutters for my new lathe. I have a larger craftsman/atlas that I've used HHS cutters with but I'd like to start using indexable cutters on the Sherline if possible. Can anyone recommend a nice set that will work with the standard Sherline holder?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your advice..



I own and have used the triangular insert cutters of the type you showed, an AR Warner set with HSS and carbide inserts, an SCLCR holder with CCMT and CCGT inserts and brazed high quality carbide tools and all work on a Sherline lathe. In a head to head test, my HSS cutters will outperform all of them, hands down, so I almost never use them on the Sherline anymore. 

My advice - buy a QCTP and use 3/8" HSS tooling instead of 1/4". You will rough more deeply, size more accurately, finish much finer, chatter less and save money with HSS. The Sherline lathe responds very well to tool geometry intended to reduce cutting forces. 

If you insist on carbide, I would go with the SCLCR/L tool holders that takes CCMT/CCGT inserts. Forget the triangular insert tools - they are an old design and do not work as well as the positive geometry CCMT and CCGT inserts.


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## kvt (Dec 2, 2015)

I'm still learning on grinding HSS so not all of mine come out real clean.    Plus I have 1/4 HSS still,   Still looking at a QTCP,  Which ones do you recommend.


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## mikey (Dec 2, 2015)

kvt said:


> I'm still learning on grinding HSS so not all of mine come out real clean.    Plus I have 1/4 HSS still,   Still looking at a QTCP,  Which ones do you recommend.



Ken, I wish I had kept some of my early attempts at tool grinding so I could show you what they looked like - they were pretty bad! I doubt you could do worse, trust me. What helped me the most was to use mild steel keystock instead of tool bits until I learned to control my hands and tool angles. I think I must have gone through 4 feet of the stuff but eventually I understood what I was supposed to be doing. You might be much further along than I was but by the time I switched back to HSS I could grind any shape at any angle I wanted and they came out looking rather good, at least to my eye, and worked quite well. You will find that 3/8" stock is much easier to grind and control than 1/4". Anyway, just a suggestion.

Probably the best post out there is the Aloris' MA Miniature post but that one costs almost $400.00. It will fit the Sherline lathe. I do not know if tool holders from A2Z or asian makers will fit it but I suspect they do. If so, this is a very viable option.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-4pc-Alo...819163?hash=item4199f49c9b:g:XXEAAOSwPe1T4mOU

Even Sherline makes a QCTP but theirs is also expensive. I don't know how the tool holders are wedged or tightened so you'll have to check. Dorian also got into the act with the Dorian MD-15 but that one is even more expensive than the Aloris.

All others are aluminum bodied piston-style posts. There used to be an outfit called TS Engineering (now out of business) that made a post that pulled the holder against the body of the post and it was much more rigid than the piston type. That is the one I use.

Unless you are very well heeled and can go for an Aloris, your best bet is the A2Z set from LMS. These are the typical piston-type post. They work and many guys say you can't tell the difference between a piston and a wedge-style post but I can (I have one of these piston-type posts, too). The wedge holds much more securely, especially when you're taking a really heavy cut or when you have a boring bar at max extension. Unfortunately, there is little choice except for the Aloris MA. For the money, the A2Z is probably your best bet.

If you plan to stay with the Sherline for a long time then maybe the Aloris post might be worth a look. Had I known I would still be using my Sherline 20+ years later, and had the Aloris MA been available, I would have bought it without a second thought. The tool bit is the interface between the work and your intentions; it must be held solidly. For my money, today, that would be the Aloris post.


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## kvt (Dec 2, 2015)

Thanks for the information.   I have been looking at the A2z on for a while,   Also thanks for the information on 3/8 HSS,  I may try your key stock idea and try to cut some,  H have made some specialized bits out of drill rod,  and made special holders to hold them in the standard Sherline holders.   Was doing some fine work on some real thing stuff for the wife.   (she does lace and needed things made)   The stuff  ALum kept breaking off with the large tools, so used 1/8 drill rod to make the tools was able to do it.  Think of turning Alum around 1/16 in thick,  inch and 1/2 long with a 1/4 inch head on one end and 1/4 inch contoured shaft on the other.


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## heliyardsale (Dec 2, 2015)

Mikey, 
Thanks for your help! Much appreciated.


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## heliyardsale (Dec 2, 2015)

Kvt, 
Thank you for you help!


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## mikey (Dec 2, 2015)

kvt said:


> Thanks for the information.   I have been looking at the A2z on for a while,   Also thanks for the information on 3/8 HSS,  I may try your key stock idea and try to cut some,  H have made some specialized bits out of drill rod,  and made special holders to hold them in the standard Sherline holders.   Was doing some fine work on some real thing stuff for the wife.   (she does lace and needed things made)   The stuff  ALum kept breaking off with the large tools, so used 1/8 drill rod to make the tools was able to do it.  Think of turning Alum around 1/16 in thick,  inch and 1/2 long with a 1/4 inch head on one end and 1/4 inch contoured shaft on the other.



Try a knife tool for the thin stuff - works pretty good.


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## mikey (Dec 2, 2015)

heliyardsale said:


> Mikey,
> Thanks for your help! Much appreciated.


 
Yup, you're welcome.


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## mikey (Dec 3, 2015)

I totally forgot to add that a QCTP on a Sherline lathe will tend to spin in use; not always but all of mine did at some point. This is probably due to the tiny T-nut used on this lathe - it does not allow adequate pressure to fully lock down the post. I was not the only one with this problem; many others also complained of it. The fix was to cut a shallow bore into the bottom of the post, leaving an intact rim of about 1/4". I didn't want to modify my post so I attached a 1/4" thick brass spacer to the bottom of my posts with countersunk flat head screws and bored the brass piece instead of the post itself. This mod allows for very heavy cuts without the post spinning. 

If you run into the spinning thing with your post, give this one a try. Since doing this I have not had the post spin once.


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## tomw (Dec 3, 2015)

Mike,

Could you post a photo of your modification? I am having a hard time visualizing what you did. 

I made some longer t-nuts that allow me to crank down a bit harder on the tool post securing bolt. This seems to have helped me.

Cheers,

Tom


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## mikey (Dec 3, 2015)

This was a common issue. Many guys think the problem arises due to distortion of the T-slot by the nut. Here is one guy's take on it that will give you an idea of what I meant:

http://www.borisbrooks.com/shop/qctp.htm

On mine, I screwed a 1/4" thick brass plate on the bottom of my tool post with 2 flat head countersunk screws and cut a relief in that instead of the base. The process is otherwise the same. I made the base plate then took it off and chucked it in the 4 jaw and cut the relief, then screwed it back on. Hasn't slipped yet.


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## tomw (Dec 4, 2015)

Thanks. I understand now.


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