# What is your favorite gas forge and why?



## ome (Jul 10, 2014)

Hi guys,
need some feedback on what your experiences with forge welding and how best to protect the lining and floor from the boiling flux. 
I am looking for a portable gas forge for HT AND TO TRY SOME FORGE WELDING.  
thanks,
jon


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## gredpe3 (Jul 10, 2014)

You should try a hyro carbon as the flux.It burns up instantly and never damages your floor.Any hydro carbon will work ,kerosene,diesel fuel,mineral spirits.
Eddie

P.S. I use hard fire brick coated with ITC.


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## 12bolts (Jul 10, 2014)

Do not use hydrocarbons as a flux.
The purpose of a flux is to help clean the metal, prevent the metal from further oxidation. Depending on what you are forge welding will depend on the flux used. It may be as simple as bicarb soda or HCl, or plain old borax powder, or you may require something more "precise".
Your forge should have some sort of hotface to protect it from the elevated temperatures. Fluxes and molten metal are corrosive, and will etch your forge. Your hotface is basically a consumable, albeit slowly. depending on the temps you are working at, the metals used, the flux employed, and the quality of your refractory will depend on how long it lasts.

Cheers Phil


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## gredpe3 (Jul 10, 2014)

The flux is actually to keep the metal from oxidizing.You clean the metal mechanically prior to the welding.If you ever try it and see how much cleaner and none corrosive it is,you will never use boraxo again.Another plus is when striking the metal at welding temp,molten goo does not shoot out everywhere.High carbon steel is my metal of choice.It works for sure on these.1084/15n20/80crv2/O1/1095
Eddie


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## 12bolts (Jul 10, 2014)

As I stated in my 1st post, fluxing helps prevent oxidation. Mechanical cleaning is a given, as it is in any metal prep for welding. Fluxing is necessary to clean the metal during heating, by chemical means, and to assist in the reduction of oxides, and to some extent, scale formation. I fail to see how a hydrocarbon that will flash instantly on contact with the metal will assist in any fluxing operation.

Cheers Phil


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## ome (Jul 11, 2014)

gredpe3 said:


> The flux is actually to keep the metal from oxidizing.You clean the metal mechanically prior to the welding.If you ever try it and see how much cleaner and none corrosive it is,you will never use boraxo again.Another plus is when striking the metal at welding temp,molten goo does not shoot out everywhere.High carbon steel is my metal of choice.It works for sure on these.1084/15n20/80crv2/O1/1095
> Eddie


Hi Eddie,
Which gas forge would be the easiest to replace the liner. 
I prefer fire brick as a liner , but some say the chile forge has the fire bricks, but the sides are always falling down, no pins or anything to keep them in place. 
Others claim the single burner forges can be grossly underpowered, taking way too long to get to the correct temp, and does not get up to forge welding temp. 
It seems to me one might need two forges, one that is just for knives and HT AND THE other for the messier forge welding, where the lining would be protected and replaced very easily. I do not want to have to spray anything. 
Thanks,
jon


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## gredpe3 (Jul 11, 2014)

I built my own forge body,its actually a recycled sand blast pot.Then add two layers  1 " K-Wool.Hard fire brick to make the bottom flat.Coat the whole inside with ITC-100.I run two Z-burners from Zoeller Forge.I''ve heard a blown burner setup would be ideal for the dual use forge.I have the EvenHeat digital for heatreating.It's just more predicable.
Eddie


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## ericc (Jul 11, 2014)

Hi.  The use of a hydrocarbon as a flux represents a modern improvement to forge welding in a gas forge.  It does work, but I have never tried it.  I have seen it done, though.  There was a very important part left out of the description, though.  Hydrocarbons like WD-40 or kerosene used as flux are often used in conjunction with a "can" keeping most of the oxygen out of the weld.  This can be as simple as a folded tin can around the weld, or as complicated as a stainless steel jacket welded together on the ends.  Make sure to leave a pinhole for the inevitable jet of flame which will flash out of the can as it comes to heat.  As for a can weld, I would highly recommend watching an expert do this before you try it.  The borax method is tried and true, but even that benefits from initial expert guidance.

As for the choice of forge, search the web.  People who do forge welding often discuss the diamondback or chile forges.  Homemade is good, but beginners often just cannot stick with the instructions.


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## gredpe3 (Jul 11, 2014)

When the liquid burns it leaves a carbon jacket on the metal that protects it from oxygen.The can welds I've seen where used with cardboard on the inside to absorb the oxygen.
Eddie)


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