# Will Pick Up Pm 1340 Gt Monday 07/20/15



## oldhank60 (Jul 19, 2015)

1340gt has arrived, got notice and have set 7/20 for date to go pick  it up, been a long wait, as luck is with me I just happen to be on 2 week vacation so I am off work and will have time to get it set up.


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## wrmiller (Jul 19, 2015)

Perfect timing.


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## oldhank60 (Jul 20, 2015)

Lathe is at shop,    I transfer it from truck to trailer so I can get into shop, should be up and running a  few weeks,  what is best for cleaning lathe?    I have not open crate are there leveling pads included or do I need to order a set?


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## tmarks11 (Jul 20, 2015)

congrats.  Pics or didn't happen.  

I like citrus degreaser (DEP brand?).  Buy it by the gallon and decant it to a pump bottle.  Smells good, cuts the cosmoline, doesn't leave an oily mess. Some people like WD-40, but the citrus stuff works better at cleaning (just not so well at lubricating, but why settle for a solution that only does a half way decent job lubricating and a half-way decent job of cleaning?).

After cleaning, wipe down all the non-painted surface with way oil (Mobile Vactra 2 or something similar) to keep them from rusting.  Yes, if you used WD40 you could skip this step, but I don't trust WD40 to keep the rust gremlins away.


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## T Bredehoft (Jul 20, 2015)

And remember WD 40 is a Water Dis-placer, not a lubricant.


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## tmarks11 (Jul 20, 2015)

T Bredehoft said:


> And remember WD 40 is a Water Dis-placer, not a lubricant.


Careful, the WD40 apologists will descend upon you like a flock of locusts any moment now for maligning their wonderful do-everything product.

Although, to be accurate, it actually is a lubricant.  Just not a very good one.  WD40 has 40 purposes (not really), a jack of all trades and a master of none.  It Cleans! It lubricates! It removes chewing gum! It walks the dog!

I prefer a lubricant that isn't designed to evaporate and leave a sticky mess behind.  I oil my ways with Vactra 2, and a week later, there is still a nice coat of oil that wipes off easily with a towel.


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## brav65 (Jul 20, 2015)

tmarks11 said:


> Careful, the WD40 apologists will descend upon you like a flock of locusts any moment now for maligning their wonderful do-everything product.
> 
> Although, to be accurate, it actually is a lubricant.  Just not a very good one.  WD40 has 40 purposes (not really), a jack of all trades and a master of none.  It Cleans! It lubricates! It removes chewing gum! It walks the dog!
> 
> I prefer a lubricant that isn't designed to evaporate and leave a sticky mess behind.  I oil my ways with Vactra 2, and a week later, there is still a nice coat of oil that wipes off easily with a towel.



It was not 40 uses, but the 40th attempt at the formulation that they were trying to create for the Aerospace industry for a product to displace water in the electrical systems on planes.  I believe that there are over 2,000 documented uses for WD40!


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## tmarks11 (Jul 20, 2015)

as I said, (Not Really).

2000 documented uses doesn't really mean much.  When you look at the list, a majority of those uses are  "lubricates XXX" or "cleans XXX off of YYY".

Yes, it is 25% oil, and 60% solvent.  It lubricates and dissolves stuff.  

To OP: post some pictures and get your thread back on the track!


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## brav65 (Jul 21, 2015)

tmarks11 said:


> as I said, (Not Really).
> 
> 2000 documented uses doesn't really mean much.  When you look at the list, a majority of those uses are  "lubricates XXX" or "cleans XXX off of YYY".
> 
> ...




I am sorry if I offended you. I happen to know because my sister lives in Seattle and my nephew told me the story.


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## tmarks11 (Jul 21, 2015)

brav65 said:


> I am sorry if I offended you.


No worries, not offended. I just find the whole WD40 thing humorous.


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## Silverbullet (Jul 22, 2015)

Facts don't lie , wd40 is fair as lube but don't trust it to prevent rust!! I've had people bring there firearms stored with a spray of the greatest water displacer ever. Not a rust preventer, I don't trust it except to help dry out metal when wet. I'll stick with real oil. Does a good job on fish bait too. Some of the old guys I fished with use to spray there bait with it . Yes it does clean well on metal even helps take stickers off items.


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## oldhank60 (Jul 30, 2015)

no photos to post, lathe is on stands, which was a fun adventure,   make sure when you are setting lathe on stand that tail stock is lock in position,  everything was going fine, then for some unknown reason it went off balance, gear head end down, tail up, I grabbed to correct and had tail stock slide down on to hand, didn't feel good but no damage.

What leveling pads are 1340 GT owners using ,  QMT did not have any in stock so I will have to order on line..  just not sure which size to get, should I  over kill it on weight size limit rating?


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## zmotorsports (Jul 30, 2015)

I am using TECO leveling feet on my 1340GT.

Mike.


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## mksj (Jul 30, 2015)

Put these on after my other ones failed:  MASON Neoprene Leveling Mount, 500 lb load, 3-1/2 Diameter - 4C978. They work well and are reasonable on ePay depending on the vendor. Enco and Grizzly also have similar models. Recommend using at least the 500Lb rated ones to maintain stability/minimal deflection, you need 4. I check my machine regularly for any change in level and have stiffened the base. Alternatively others use hard mounting feet.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Machine-Mount-1-1-2-800-lb-Capacity/G7158
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=5832297&PMAKA=325-6611


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## wrmiller (Jul 30, 2015)

I copied Mike and put the TECOs on mine. No problems so far.


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## Doubleeboy (Jul 30, 2015)

I know I have said this before, but I will repeat again, use Mason feet under a lathe with caution, they move, they shrink, the lathe will most likely not stay level very long.   I tried for 2 years to believe they would level my lathe, finally quit and made rigid leveling pads with bolts and indented iron discs.   I truly believe Mason pads are made for leveling conveyors and outfeed tables, not precision machinery.   I am sure someone out there is happy with them under their lathe but it sure as heck isn't me.  I don't mean to come off as an arrogant expert but I have been setting up machinery for some time now and you could not give me a set of Mason feet to use for a lathe, mill, surface grinder, shaper.  As an aside I know a guy now retired who set up precision lathes that he sold with nothing but bolts and indented steel pads, said all the synthetic padded mounts compressed over time.   When you install half a dozen 10ee or HLVH and refuse to use Mason feet that says something to me.  When I told him my tale he just nodded like he had been there long before.

michael


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## zmotorsports (Jul 31, 2015)

Doubleeboy said:


> I know I have said this before, but I will repeat again, use Mason feet under a lathe with caution, they move, they shrink, the lathe will most likely not stay level very long.   I tried for 2 years to believe they would level my lathe, finally quit and made rigid leveling pads with bolts and indented iron discs.   I truly believe Mason pads are made for leveling conveyors and outfeed tables, not precision machinery.   I am sure someone out there is happy with them under their lathe but it sure as heck isn't me.  I don't mean to come off as an arrogant expert but I have been setting up machinery for some time now and you could not give me a set of Mason feet to use for a lathe, mill, surface grinder, shaper.  As an aside I know a guy now retired who set up precision lathes that he sold with nothing but bolts and indented steel pads, said all the synthetic padded mounts compressed over time.   When you install half a dozen 10ee or HLVH and refuse to use Mason feet that says something to me.  When I told him my tale he just nodded like he had been there long before.
> 
> michael



This was the main reason I went with the TECO leveling feet.  I was going to use the Mason mounts on my equipment with the thinking it may absorb some of the vibrations but after reading on here someone posted about having the chase the level over time so I went with the TECO at home just like we use at work.

Mike.


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## mksj (Jul 31, 2015)

Have used the Mason on my mill with no change over the years, and have not seen any appreciable change on the lathe over the last 6 months. but will look into solid mounts for the lathe. I have read comments in both camps on this issue, and the better isolation feet can tun up to 1K per set and are specific for the type of machine/application.


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## TomS (Jul 31, 2015)

Doubleeboy said:


> I know I have said this before, but I will repeat again, use Mason feet under a lathe with caution, they move, they shrink, the lathe will most likely not stay level very long.   I tried for 2 years to believe they would level my lathe, finally quit and made rigid leveling pads with bolts and indented iron discs.   I truly believe Mason pads are made for leveling conveyors and outfeed tables, not precision machinery.   I am sure someone out there is happy with them under their lathe but it sure as heck isn't me.  I don't mean to come off as an arrogant expert but I have been setting up machinery for some time now and you could not give me a set of Mason feet to use for a lathe, mill, surface grinder, shaper.  As an aside I know a guy now retired who set up precision lathes that he sold with nothing but bolts and indented steel pads, said all the synthetic padded mounts compressed over time.   When you install half a dozen 10ee or HLVH and refuse to use Mason feet that says something to me.  When I told him my tale he just nodded like he had been there long before.
> 
> michael



Had the same experience with Mason pads on my lathe.  Spent more time leveling than machining.  Changed to solid feet and haven't needed to relevel since.  I do have Mason feet on my two mills (because I had them) but leveling isn't as critical as a lathe.

Tom S


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## Rich V (Aug 1, 2015)

I used these from McMaster -Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6111K183
They have a thin synthetic pad to give a none skid grip but don't compress. Be aware that the threaded holes on the 1340 are not 1/2 13 but metric (M12 x 1.75?). I was able to run a 1/2 13 tap thru the metric thread and get a clean threaded hole. Not much of a difference between this size metric vs AS thread.


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## oldhank60 (Aug 1, 2015)

zmotorsports said:


> I am using TECO leveling feet on my 1340GT.
> 
> Mike.


Mike did you use metric or American thread,  I look at the threaded hole figure its metric and then the extra non threaded hole next to it.  I could re tap hole if needed

Hank


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## oldhank60 (Aug 2, 2015)

I ordered the Te  co brand  1/2-13  thread,   I will drill a 1/4 hole in bottom of each pad and install short pin to hold metal plates I need to put under leveling foot.  I hate it when you start to adjust foot only to have plate turn and go out from under leveling pad.  

Hank


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## wrmiller (Aug 2, 2015)

Interestingly, I did not rethread my 1340GT stands. Honestly, I didn't even consider that they might be different, (and Mike didn't warn me that they were). 

Edit: I used the same one Mike used, as described in his setup thread.


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## zmotorsports (Aug 3, 2015)

I can't remember if I used 1/2"-13 threaded leveling feet or 5/8"-11.  I am fairly certain I used 1/2" because don't remember drilling the holes in the cabinets out at all.

Mike.


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## RIO (Dec 4, 2015)

Mike/Mark/Bill:
I just got these from Enco:  http://www.use-enco.com/1/1/40403-studded-pivotal-stud-mount-leveling-pads-mounts-990-2060.html
They look like duplicates of the TECO version you are using, 1/2-13 threads, BUT...  they thread extremely hard.  I stopped.  I'm convinced RICH V is right, they must be metric.  I supposed I could just cram them through, but I think I'll go buy a 1/2-13 tap and do what RICH did.
Do you guys remember having to re-tap the holes?

OH, BY THE WAY, I GOT MY LATHE!!

Lafe


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## AirWolf (Dec 4, 2015)

RIO said:


> Mike/Mark/Bill:
> I just got these from Enco:  http://www.use-enco.com/1/1/40403-studded-pivotal-stud-mount-leveling-pads-mounts-990-2060.html
> They look like duplicates of the TECO version you are using, 1/2-13 threads, BUT...  they thread extremely hard.  I stopped.  I'm convinced RICH V is right, they must be metric.  I supposed I could just cram them through, but I think I'll go buy a 1/2-13 tap and do what RICH did.
> Do you guys remember having to re-tap the holes?
> ...



YES - Run a tap through the threaded holes in the lathe - paint buildup is probably your problem


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## wrmiller (Dec 4, 2015)

I didn't have to use a tap, my TECOs screwed right in. But maybe I just got lucky?


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## Rich V (Dec 4, 2015)

Told you so.

Run the tap and all will be good. Enjoy your new lathe!


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## RIO (Dec 5, 2015)

Went to TSC and picked up a 1/2-13 tap, ran it through the foot-pad holes, then they threaded fine by hand.  It definitely cut more than paint.


Thanks boys.

View attachment IMG_20151204_215745322.jpg


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