# Beveling Pipe Chatter Issues



## Strtspdlx (Jun 2, 2015)

I have and atlas 10x54 lathe I use it a lot to bevel 5" sch40 pipe to practice welding. Recently I've been having chatter issues. I had a 3 jaw chick that was beat that I used to use. Now I have a 4 jaw that's in like new condition. My setup goes as follows. Put pipe in chick dial it in to less then .004. I set the compound to 37.5 degrees and move my tool holder perpendicular to my compound. I've tried it with compound facing forward or reverse with no change. Depending which way I face the compound I use the appropriate cutter that is hss 5% cobalt. Which has always worked fine before. This is one of the shorter pipes at 5.5" length I cannot get it to not chatter. Tried faster, slower, back gears and haven't had any luck. So I tried parting it off 1.5" from the chuck as I figured it was too much unsupported. HOLY COW it parts like butter now!!! So I know my machine is tight because before it would take me atleast an hour to part this constantly stalling the lathe and such. So I believe it is in my setup as I've beveled 10"+ lengths of pipe before no problem. Also I tried on center slightly above and below center with no luck. And please don't ask speeds. I can tell you what belt/pulley arrangements I tried aside from that I'm ignorant so far on calculating all that stuff. Thanks for any help and if there's anything you need to help me let me know. 


Regards-Carlo


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## Kernbigo (Jun 2, 2015)

When you are out that far with your piece use a steady rest, remember you have a small lathe you are working with. Also your spindle bearings could be a little loose


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 2, 2015)

I don't have a steady rest and I don't believe they make one that'll hold something this size. I need to just build my own steady rests they're quite expensive. 


Regards-Carlo


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## chips&more (Jun 2, 2015)

Carlo, are you saying you have put a bevel on a 5” pipe sticking out 10” from the chuck on a 10” lathe? If you can do that, you are very good indeed. As to your problem, what did you change, did you change chucks then have a problem?...Dave.


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## kingmt01 (Jun 2, 2015)

chips&more said:


> Carlo, are you saying you have put a bevel on a 5” pipe sticking out 10” from the chuck on a 10” lathe? If you can do that, you are very good indeed. As to your problem, what did you change, did you change chucks then have a problem?...Dave.


5" pipe on a 10" swing only using 10" +chuck on a 54" bed. What is that so hard?

OP, you may need to center the outside of you part as you adjust the chuck. It would be easy to push the work of the Chuck of your holding it from the inside.


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 2, 2015)

chips&more said:


> Carlo, are you saying you have put a bevel on a 5” pipe sticking out 10” from the chuck on a 10” lathe? If you can do that, you are very good indeed. As to your problem, what did you change, did you change chucks then have a problem?...Dave.



Yeah I changed from a 5" 3 jaw to a 6" 4 jaw I may try the 3 jaw again and see if it helps. I can't think of a reason why it would though. 


Regards-Carlo


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## Tony Wells (Jun 2, 2015)

While some may argue that too much is hanging out of the chuck, and that is possible, only you know whether you have done it before successfully. You mentioned changing to a 4 jaw. Are the jaws the same length, allowing the same or more gripping length on the pipe? Of course, as you probably realize, the more unsupported length you are working with, the more likely you are to experience chatter. A small (very small) tool radius may help some. If you can turn a close fitting plug to fit inside the pipe where you are chucking, you could apply considerable force to hold it. That also may help.


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 2, 2015)

Tony Wells said:


> While some may argue that too much is hanging out of the chuck, and that is possible, only you know whether you have done it before successfully. You mentioned changing to a 4 jaw. Are the jaws the same length, allowing the same or more gripping length on the pipe? Of course, as you probably realize, the more unsupported length you are working with, the more likely you are to experience chatter. A small (very small) tool radius may help some. If you can turn a close fitting plug to fit inside the pipe where you are chucking, you could apply considerable force to hold it. That also may help.


I hadn't thought about that. I did turn a center for the end to support it in initial plunge when parting as before I was having serious issues. Now parting is like cutting butter. So I suppose I need to figure it my chatter. Could I just part it into 1.75" pieces to bevel. Of course I could but what's the fun in that. Also doing it that way I constantly have to flip and indicate the pipe in my way I bevel the end. Part it off and mount the beveled edge against the chuck and I only have to bevel one side after indicating. 


Regards-Carlo


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## chips&more (Jun 2, 2015)

If I was to do this job. I would make two plugs to fit each end of the pipe. One plug would have a center in it for tailstock support. The other plug would go in the other end of the pipe and prevent the chuck jaws from distorting the pipe and have the pipe come loose from the chuck. Maybe put a step on the plugs so the plugs catch on the ends of the pipe. I would use a sharp pointed tool bit. Any kind of radius adds to the tool pressure which can cause your chatter. If you have any high density plastic, I think even that would work for the material to make your plugs. I have a 14” lathe, and I could not just put a 5” pipe sticking out 10” and bevel the end. Without first adding support or something. The pipe would fly out of the chuck jaws at first contact with the tool bit. I could not apply proper clamping pressure because the pipe would continue to crush/distort…Dave.


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## higgite (Jun 2, 2015)

Carlo,

You say you parted the 5" pipe okay 1-1/2" from the chuck. Did you try beveling that short piece to see if you have chatter like you do with 10" overhang?

Tom


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## pineyfolks (Jun 2, 2015)

We did many of those when I was in school for the welding class. If I remember correctly we didn't cut the chamfer to a point. We left a small step about 1/8"x 1/8 so when they butt up there was a 1/4" flat at the root of the weld. They may do it different now days.


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 3, 2015)

pineyfolks said:


> We did many of those when I was in school for the welding class. If I remember correctly we didn't cut the chamfer to a point. We left a small step about 1/8"x 1/8 so when they butt up there was a 1/4" flat at the root of the weld. They may do it different now days.


I do mine slightly smaller something like .050. But I also run a very small gap and higher amperage 


Regards-Carlo


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 3, 2015)

higgite said:


> Carlo,
> 
> You say you parted the 5" pipe okay 1-1/2" from the chuck. Did you try beveling that short piece to see if you have chatter like you do with 10" overhang?
> 
> Tom


No I didn't. I'n going to assume it will for the moment. Right now I don't have time
To check because the transmission in my truck went on me. As soon as I repair that I'll be back to machining. Well that's if I don't have to machine any parts for the transmission. 


Regards-Carlo


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## stevemetsch (Jun 4, 2015)

I have the same lathe and was getting chatter on cutting a 4" disk from a steel plate by trepanning. I tightened down all of the gibs, sharpened my cutoff tool and chatter was gone. 
Give it a try. Why it worked before doesn't matter as long as you get it done.


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 6, 2015)

I'm not having problems parting. I realized after a few times that for parting unless you're feeding pretty consistent and have a pretty good amount of pressure on the tool it works fine. Not enough pressure and it chatters and wanders and won't part anything correctly. 
As for the beveling here's another question. I'm trying to put a 37.5* bevel on the pipe if I set my compound to 37.5* would I be getting the correct bevel or should I be setting it to  52.5*?


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## Tony Wells (Jun 6, 2015)

Depends on two things. Angle from face or centerline? Where is your datum (index) mark on the compound? This is why I like 45°......Doesn't matter.


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 6, 2015)

Tony Wells said:


> Depends on two things. Angle from face or centerline? Where is your datum (index) mark on the compound? This is why I like 45°......Doesn't matter.



I'm not all that educated. The angle I'm referring to is off the face. They want a 60* included angle to weld the pipe together. My index mark is beneath the compound on the cross slide and 0* is a mark on compound. I tried measuring 37.5* and I have a bit of a gap like I should have more of an angle. 


Regards-Carlo


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## Tony Wells (Jun 7, 2015)

OK, 60° included means 30° _from the face_ of the pipe end. With your compound perpendicular to the lathe ways (parallel with the face of the pipe), look at your degree markings and swivel the compound 30° from that position. It will be either marked at 0° or 90°, so you will end up at either 60° if it is 90° on the face, or 30° if it is 90° on the face.

Hope that isn't more confusing.


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 7, 2015)

Tony Wells said:


> OK, 60° included means 30° _from the face_ of the pipe end. With your compound perpendicular to the lathe ways (parallel with the face of the pipe), look at your degree markings and swivel the compound 30° from that position. It will be either marked at 0° or 90°, so you will end up at either 60° if it is 90° on the face, or 30° if it is 90° on the face.
> 
> Hope that isn't more confusing.



Yeah that confused the heck out of me ha. 
	

		
			
		

		
	






Regards-Carlo


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## Tony Wells (Jun 7, 2015)

Your compound should be set at 30° to achieve a 60° included angle between the two pieces of pipe. You are cranking the compound to make the cut, right?


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 7, 2015)

Yep i move the compound to cut. I have it at 37.5* to cheat a bit as 30* is a bit narrow. The tests specify a 60* included angle so soon I'll have to change it up and get used to it. But as far the setup pictured I am correct?


Regards-Carlo


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## Tony Wells (Jun 7, 2015)

Correct. At 30° you are right, it will be a bit harder to get the root pass in, but them's the breaks.  Your setup is fine.


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