# Removing Taper Pin From SB 10L Wide-Range Gear Box



## silverhawk (Apr 22, 2019)

Has anyone struggled with the taper pin removal on the tumbler shaft for the quick change gear box of a South Bend heavy 10?  It's a wide-range gear box, and I've bent two 3/32" punches trying to drive it out.  Right now I'm concerned I'm driving it the wrong direction, but the "book" that was written on restoration and the youtube videos tell me I'm doing it right.  Are there secrets to removing the pin?


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## benmychree (Apr 22, 2019)

You have one chance with taper pins; you have to whack the hell out of the small end one good whack, if you keep pecking away at it, you peen it and expand the diameter so that it cannot be driven out, the only thing to be done then is to CAREFULLY align the assembly and drill the pin out, then upon reassembly, ream the hole out to the next size larger taper pin; been there, done that.


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## silverhawk (Apr 22, 2019)

Good to know.  With where the pin was when I got the gear box, I think someone peened it over before it ever came (it wasn't completely in place, and the other end was bent around it).

Your answer does tell me I may have to drill it out.  Since I have part of it out, I might put some vice grips on there and see if I can pry it from the other end.  I'm really hoping I don't have to drill it out.  Thanks for the response!  Never thought that they'd peen over.  I learned something today.


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## silverhawk (Apr 23, 2019)

Not enough to bite on with the vise grips.





I'm going to have to drill it out.  Thanks, Benmychree!  You've given me hope!


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## Ulma Doctor (Apr 23, 2019)

as a point of information,

i have had success with grinding the buggered end off the taper pin and swing from behind the ear on a tapered punch that has an end roughly the same diameter as the cross section of the pin.
gently heating the area with propane or a heat gun will aid in the expansion of the metals, giving you a better shot at removal.
you can always drill and ream as @benmychree stated, but i have only had to drill few out.

 i usually scare taper pins out with a couple heavy handed whacks.


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## benmychree (Apr 23, 2019)

silverhawk said:


> Good to know.  With where the pin was when I got the gear box, I think someone peened it over before it ever came (it wasn't completely in place, and the other end was bent around it).
> 
> Your answer does tell me I may have to drill it out.  Since I have part of it out, I might put some vice grips on there and see if I can pry it from the other end.  I'm really hoping I don't have to drill it out.  Thanks for the response!  Never thought that they'd peen over.  I learned something today.


They not only peen over, but they swell up in the hole.


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## Richard King 2 (Apr 23, 2019)

If I were you I would drill down though the set screw and pin start with a good grade drill not harbor freight .  Many times the put the set screw in the small end to help hold it in.  You may want to use a air grinder with a cut off wheel and cut the smashed end off.   Then unscrew the set screw and drive out the pin.  One important thing is to place the tumbler casting on something solid before hitting the pin with a punch a bit smaller then the pin / Then replace the pin with a new one.   Be sure to tell us how it comes out.   If the hole is buggered up, you may have to buy a tapered reamer and ream it a bit bigger.


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## silverhawk (Apr 23, 2019)

Ulma Doctor said:


> as a point of information,
> 
> i have had success with grinding the buggered end off the taper pin and swing from behind the ear on a tapered punch that has an end roughly the same diameter as the cross section of the pin.
> gently heating the area with propane or a heat gun will aid in the expansion of the metals, giving you a better shot at removal.
> ...



Wow!  This was a perfect technique!  I was worried I'd crack the cast iron if I got it too hot too quickly, so I took my time and warmed the entire area before heating up that final spot.  Since I had my broken punches, I used those as spacers to reach down to where the previous owner had buggered it up, and (as reluctant as I was to give it a solid whack, I caved and hit it with the bigger hammer) she came loose.














Drove it out, and got the tumbler apart without having to drill (the drill wouldn't even fit because the chuck was interfering with the casing, so this was the perfect way to go).


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## silverhawk (Apr 23, 2019)

Richard King 2 said:


> If I were you I would drill down though the set screw and pin start with a good grade drill not harbor freight .  Many times the put the set screw in the small end to help hold it in.  You may want to use a air grinder with a cut off wheel and cut the smashed end off.   Then unscrew the set screw and drive out the pin.  One important thing is to place the tumbler casting on something solid before hitting the pin with a punch a bit smaller then the pin / Then replace the pin with a new one.   Be sure to tell us how it comes out.   If the hole is buggered up, you may have to buy a tapered reamer and ream it a bit bigger.



The last time I drilled a hole with a harbor freight drill bit, I broke the bit and still hadn't scratched the aluminum.  Good bits are worth their price.


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## markba633csi (Apr 24, 2019)

Perfect!  You are now a member of the expert pin pusher-outer club


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