# The Cons of my new G0755



## ChipsAhoy

I have my new Grizzly G0755 up and running, and I enjoy it very much.  I didn't see much point in listing all the little things that I like about it, so I thought I'd be more helpful and list the bad things I've found so far, and I do hope this helps, this post is not intended to be a "Beat up Grizzly" post.

I found the stand to be a little short, I left it on the pallet which adds about 5.5", and I think another 4 to 6 inches would be better, but I'm afraid to "Stack" up cribbing so will live with it as it is until I can find some 6 - 8" channel to fab up a solid replacement for my wood pallet.  Unlike a knee mill, the table does not travel up and down, so you avoid the risk of putting it a little too high and then later finding that you have to stand on your tip toes to see your work when it is way up.....that is the voice of experience, I did just that thing with a previous machine.

The base is a waste of space, I believe that I'm going to change one or both of the covers into doors for storage, and/or flush pump and liquid storage tank.

During my break-in run I notice oil  weeping up around the four motor mount bolts.  I believe this is due to the lack of a vent for the gear box allowing it to pressurize when it warms up.   I'm in search of a vent to replace the filler plug with.

On the power feed for the table is a 'Rapid Transit' button. The manufacturer has buggered up a pin/plunger, that contacts the micro switch at an angle.  They created the angle buy bending the switch mount bracket beyond 90'.  On my machine, when I pressed the button the first time, the pin/plunger pushed the switch button then went beyond it and stuck there which caused the switch to remain 'made up' even after I released the button.  I fixed it by 'un-bending' the bracket a little. not a good fix to a poor design.  I believe that I'll go to Radioshack and purchase a face mount switch to replace the cheesy lash-up.  I mention this so new owners will be aware and not startled if the table keeps on going.

The machine has a power up for the head, and also comes with a manual crank handle, this of course allows for fine movements that can't accomplished with the motor, provides for manual operation in case of motor failure and aids in movement beyond the stop switches.  If and when one used the manual crank handle, please remove it just as you would a chuck key on a lathe.  Also, look for the bundle of wires that hang down and ride on the three lug "Cable Saw" left behind when you remove the handle.   I took a tapered drinking tumbler and pressed over the boss to protect the wires (and clothing or whatever) from being snagged or sawn.  I had to keep cutting the tumble down until the diameter made a nice friction fit on the boss.

On the same subject, I recommend that after you use the switch to electrically put the head in transit up or down, that the switch be returned to the off position.  If it is left engaged and one manually cranks the head out of micro switch range, the switch will change states and the motor will restart while you still have the crank handle in hand.  (IMO, the machine should have spring loaded buttons that de-energize when released or a spring return to neutral knob, anything that prevents  the operator from doing another function while the head is in transit).

Had a difficult time with making the column perpendicular to the table, turns out they had metal filings left in between the base of the column and the base itself.  

During the break in run of about an hour, my gear box felt barely warm to the touch, not "hot" at all.  It was cooler than the motor.

In spite of what the manual says, there is no light under the head, but it wasn't advertised as such either.

I like this machine and would recommend it to anyone for home/hobby use, not sure how it would hold up to industrial use.

Sry no pics, I guess I've used up my allotted space on the four pic that I've already posted.

Scotty


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## ChipsAhoy

Found another small problem.
  The gib lock handles are about 3/8" too long.  If you aren't careful they will drag across the ways and either snap off or scrape it up.  I got mine jammed and lucky for me no damage.  I took all three off, cut about 1/2" off of each, dressed the cut off ends nice and smooth, problem solved.

Scotty


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## Henrymac

Thanks for your review. I am looking at that machine and also the G0768 8 x 30 knee mill. It looks like they weigh about the same. Intrigued with your take on the hieght. How tall are you? Thanks.


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## tmarks11

Henrymac said:


> I am looking at that machine and also the G0768 8 x 30 knee mill. It looks like they weigh about the same.


If you can swing the price difference, you will be much happier with the knee mill.  Plus, the G0768 is made in Taiwan, which makes a difference.  

The only advantage to the square column bench top are if you ever planned to add cnc to it (harder to do with a knee mill).


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## Henrymac

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I really like the knee mill better anyway.


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## ChipsAhoy

I'm 5/10" and skrinking...
The power light has quit, it blinked a half dozen times and now won't come on, (machine still works fine) I like the light  to function as I power down completely at the end of the day and without the light, I'm apt to miss it.

Way covers in the back are nice, but needs way wipes in the front. I wish I'd thought of it before I started using it.  Easy to make some but on the right side is the BIG gib screw, gonna take some doing to work around it.

I've owned several mills and this is by far is still my favorite... hobby size... machine.  My jets slowest speed (belt change) was 240 rpm, this grizzly slows down to 90 rpm with a flip lever on the gearbox, much nicer for the HSS fly cutter.

Scotty


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## ChipsAhoy

The gear box has two selectors, one for the 3 speeds and one for high/low range.  One or the other needs a Neutral position.  If I ever have a need to get into the box I'll see if an indent can be easily added.  It sure helps when tapping.  I can find a space between gears, but it takes some goofing around sometimes.

Scotty


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## GarageWrench

Hey Scotty, Question for ya, when your table is at full Y- , where is the center of your quill in relation to the table? I just read a post on another site about a guy with a PM 932M, and he said with his table in full Y- (out towards him) the quill was in the center of his table, if he cantileverd his table out more the cutter would reach the inside edge of the table but he was worried about the rigedity of the table at that point. The reason I ask is I am looking to purchase a G0755 or a PM 932M and I am in comparison research at the moment. 

Buck


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## ChipsAhoy

With the table all the way towards me, the quill is right over the rearmost "T" slot, about 1  3/8" from the rear edge.  Of course with the table all the way back the quill is off the table about 1  1/2.
Scotty


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## ChipsAhoy

Now, the speed selectors on the gearbox have three positions 1,2 &3, and two ranges, High and Low.  When I put the selector into HI and the speed selector in 3 (fastest) The motor starts and runs but runs very very slow, like a 3 phase motor 'single phasing.  Runs fine in hi/2,  hi/3 is the only problem.  I intend to call grizzly support, but of course, she's out of warranty.  I suspect the motor (china's finest).   If it is bad and I have to purchase a new one, I will purchase a 3 phase and get a TECO controller.  That will let me run it on 220 and give me, amongst other things, infinite variable speeds.   
..... or it could be a start/run capacitor? 

Side note, just finally purchased a 12 X 36 Atlas yesterday, seems tight, but haven't had a chance to hug it and rub it or name it.

Scotty


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## dave2176

My G0755 has always needed 20 or 30 minutes to warm up before I can use H2 or H3. Worse in cold weather. If that isn't it maybe the start capacitor? Bearings aren't too tight are they? 
Dave


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## ChipsAhoy

Well, I'll scrutinize the bearings a bit.  I have held the spanner nut on the top while trying to loosen the draw bar. Perhaps I've over tightened it. Sound possible? I need to go out to the shop and stare at it for a bit and see if that makes sense.
When your is 'cold' does it run super slow?
I did suspect the start capacitor, only be cause I dunno exactly what a start capacitor does and my problem seems to be on start up!
Hows that for troubleshooting technique?

Thx for the tips
Scotty


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## tmarks11

ChipsAhoy said:


> Well, I'll scrutinize the bearings a bit.  I have held the spanner nut on the top while trying to loosen the draw bar. Perhaps I've over tightened it. Sound possible?


No.  The drawbar doesn't apply tension to the spindle bearings.  It just applies tension to the top and bottom of the spindle tube, and the bearings run outside of that tube.

Problem should not be the starting capacitor, or the centrifugal switch, as it runs fine in the other gears.  If the start capacitor were blown, it would not start at all (just sit there and hum at you like an angry bee).  If the centrifugal switch were not opening, the motor would never run at full speed (and get very hot). 

This sounds like a mechanical issue, maybe an idler gear set for the higher has a bad bearing.  Did it used to work correct?


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## dave2176

ChipsAhoy said:


> Well, I'll scrutinize the bearings a bit.  I have held the spanner nut on the top while trying to loosen the draw bar. Perhaps I've over tightened it. Sound possible? I need to go out to the shop and stare at it for a bit and see if that makes sense.
> When your is 'cold' does it run super slow?
> I did suspect the start capacitor, only be cause I dunno exactly what a start capacitor does and my problem seems to be on start up!
> Hows that for troubleshooting technique?
> 
> Thx for the tips
> Scotty



When cold, 70* for instance my mill will not start in H2 or H3. It spins very slowly and will never get off the start mode. It runs fine in the lower gears as well as H1. Once it gets 10 minutes runtime H2 works great but it needs 20-30 minutes for H3 then all is well. I've read many posts across the internet that talk about mills needing a warm up before going to work. Have you tried a warm up period?
Dave


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## ChipsAhoy

tmarks11
  I had the quill cranked down and locked, in a hurry and not thinking, I put my wrench on the top of the drawbar and of course it just free wheeled back and forth.  I grabbed a spanner and tugged on the spanner jamb nut while holding the draw bar, when it turned I suddenly realized what I had done.  I believe that I returned the spanner nut back to where it was.  Never showed any symptoms... until now, so thinking perhaps I tightened it and failed to put it back proper.  Since my last post I played with it a bit and it is not too tight after all.

Dave.
I have some out of town errands to run, but I will run it for awhile, then try it in H/3 when I get back .  If that is the problem... well what is the problem?  Chin-wa motor?  Either way I'll respond with what I have found.
Thx guys
Scotty


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## tmarks11

ChipsAhoy said:


> I grabbed a spanner and tugged on the spanner jamb nut while holding the draw bar, when it turned I suddenly realized what I had done.  I believe that I returned the spanner nut back to where it was.


Still not going to damage the spindle bearings doing that.


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## ChipsAhoy

tmarks11 said:


> Still not going to damage the spindle bearings doing that.


Nope, didn't figure that I had damaged them,... did think that perhaps I'd over tightened them.

Scotty


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## tmarks11

ChipsAhoy said:


> tmarks11
> I grabbed a spanner and tugged on the spanner jamb nut while holding the draw bar, when it turned I suddenly realized what I had done.  I believe that I returned the spanner nut back to where it was.


So looking at the drawing on the following page, what part number was the "spanner jam nut" that you turned?

http://cdn2.grizzly.com/partslists/g0755_pl.pdf


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## ChipsAhoy

Not sure where you're going with this, There is only one spanner nut in this drawing  #68, and we've already surmised that isn't likely the problem.
Or have you got a theory that might help solve the problem?

Scotty


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## tmarks11

Asked because I was wondering if we were talking about the same nut once I looked at the diagram.  We were not.

That nut sets the bearing preload for the spindle, and if it is too tight would cause excessive heat at high speeds (and if too loose would give too much run-out of the spindle).

If you could run it in H3 before you tightened that jam nut, and now you can't, I would consider adjusting it.  Usually, manufacturers specify a torque setting to set the pre-load very precisely, but a quick google of "RF45 spindle preload" (of which your mill is a variant) shows that there is no real torque spec.  I would try loosening it maybe 1/16-1/32 of a turn, seeing if it helps, then maybe loosen it again incrementally.  There should be a lock washer under it that bends up to prevent it from being messed with.

some good pictures here:
http://www.metalworkingfun.com/showthread.php?tid=405


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## dave2176

Scotty, 
I received my mill in the fall two years ago when the weather was already cooling. Because it wouldn't start in the higher gears after breakin then without warm up first I just accepted it as a characteristic of the mill and have never tried it in the heat of summer when ambient temp reached 100+. I always warm it up first and too cold to test it now. The mill runs great otherwise, only hits 76 decibels at full speed, power is excellent, I couldn't be happier. I guess what I'm saying is are you sure something is wrong before you head down a path of replacing parts that may not gain anything. Maybe the motors are a little short on their horsepower claim and a brand name motor would start right up but I'll let it be for now.  
Dave


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## jpooch00

just my opinion, but for my money "chips under the column" and all the other negative stuff  that you and some others listed are definitely deal-breakers for me.

Screw that!  I would have sent it back as defective.  They don't care about QC, they don't get my money - simple as that.

I'll spend a little more for true quality any day!!


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## JR49

jpooch00 said:


> Screw that! I would have sent it back as defective. They don't care about QC, they don't get my money - simple as that.


 
Hey jpooch00, based on the  comments you made today on the 2 threads, one about the PM932M-pdf, and the other about the G0755, I hope you are a wealthy man, and are planning on spending 15,000 PLUS on a mill.  For the record, I've had my PM932M-PDF for over a year now and have been very happy  with it.  I even checked inside the gear head as well as other spots, and could not find a speck of grit anywhere.  Good luck with your search,  JR49


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## jpooch00

Nope, I'm not "wealthy" in any sense of the word.   That's mainly why I don't spend money on large purchases unless they have actual value.

I was just going by the post by the OP.  IMO, the value just isn't there - at least with the machine that he got.  What I saw in his pics and read in his post indicates to me that the builders had no pride whatsoever in their workmanship and the QC at the factory is near-zero.

As a career certified aircraft mechanic and maintenance/repair inspector, I have no tolerance or respect at all for those failings.

No problem paying for true quality, BIG problem paying for what he described and the pics he included.

Best wishes,

JP


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## ChipsAhoy

The latest:
  I was running the x axis power feed on the table, and I had pushed a cart along side the machine.  I allowed the table to run up over the cart where the handle on the hand wheel caught an item on the cart causing a nylon gear in the power feed to strip. Entirely my fault, so glad the power feeds have a sacrificial part, and it has easy access to replace....HOWEVER, 
I have been searching for a replacement gear with little success.  Shars has a gear that looks like it, $15.00, but it specifies that the drive whole is tapered, my gear is not.  
I did get a reply from Danny B at Grizzly. They do not have it in stock, 6 to 8 weeks out, with shipping... over $50.00. They sell the complete unit, new, with attachments for $199.95.  They want over 25% of complete new unit  cost for one nylon part!  Not happening!  
The power feed is an Asong  brand,  one of Grizzlys part numbers for the unit is PT 24824.  They also use AS-235. I do really like the square column mill, but... with support like that.
I'm out, no more Grizzly stuff for me.  
In my search for this part I've read of other failures on this drive.  I will purchase a better brand and drop this one in the trash.


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## The_Apprentice

> I'm out, no more Grizzly stuff for me.



Sorry to hear that mate. But somewhere else out there, someone is saying the exact same comment this moment about a similar clone... and no doubt wishes they had gone with Grizzly instead.


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## cjtoombs

Chips, you might try getting that gear 3D printed.  Might still be costly, though.


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## Cobra

ChipsAhoy said:


> The latest:
> I was running the x axis power feed on the table, and I had pushed a cart along side the machine.  I allowed the table to run up over the cart where the handle on the hand wheel caught an item on the cart causing a nylon gear in the power feed to strip. Entirely my fault, so glad the power feeds have a sacrificial part, and it has easy access to replace....HOWEVER,
> I have been searching for a replacement gear with little success.  Shars has a gear that looks like it, $15.00, but it specifies that the drive whole is tapered, my gear is not.
> I did get a reply from Danny B at Grizzly. They do not have it in stock, 6 to 8 weeks out, with shipping... over $50.00. They sell the complete unit, new, with attachments for $199.95.  They want over 25% of complete new unit  cost for one nylon part!  Not happening!
> The power feed is an Asong  brand,  one of Grizzlys part numbers for the unit is PT 24824.  They also use AS-235. I do really like the square column mill, but... with support like that.
> I'm out, no more Grizzly stuff for me.
> In my search for this part I've read of other failures on this drive.  I will purchase a better brand and drop this one in the trash.




Check with CDCO.  They carry replacement gear.


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## ChipsAhoy

Priced having one made and one printed.... back to cheaper to buy a new powerfeed.
CDCO, is a good find, thanks for the hint.  At your suggestion I went to their site and front and center is my very powerfeed.  I didn't redily see how to order parts, but I sent them an email, should hear back soon.... I hope.
I'll keep you informed.
Thx
Scotty


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## Robert LaLonde

tmarks11 said:


> If you can swing the price difference, you will be much happier with the knee mill.  Plus, the G0768 is made in Taiwan, which makes a difference.
> 
> The only advantage to the square column bench top are if you ever planned to add cnc to it (harder to do with a knee mill).



Am I the only one to notice the G0768 is a lathe?
http://www.grizzly.com/products/8-x-16-Variable-Speed-Lathe/G0768


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## ChipsAhoy

I have the gear on order now thru CDCO.  Price is a little high, shipping is exactly double the USPS flat rate, but still half the price of Grizzly, who don't even have it in  stock.
Thank You COBRA!
Scotty


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## Cobra

Glad it worked Scotty.  He has always done well by me.
Jim


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