# My Logan lathe needs a stand,what do you recommend?



## AirBornOne (Dec 1, 2012)

Greetings Hobby Machinists,
 I've been lurking around for a while and now it's time to get my lathe setup.
 My original idea was to mount the lathe to a 3/8" steel plate and set it upon a tanker desk.
 I have the plate nearly ready minus a few motor mount holes but I've decided to use the desk as a desk.
 So what should it be,massive timber construction or svelt steel tubing (perhaps rectangular)?
 The lathe will have a regular home location and should'nt need to be moved around (I think  ).
 Thanks for any input you may have.
 Jay
P.S. Oh sure,now I see the lathe mounting threads in the other forums (Doh!)


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## 7HC (Dec 1, 2012)

AirBornOne said:


> Greetings Hobby Machinists,
> I've been lurking around for a while and now it's time to get my lathe setup.
> My original idea was to mount the lathe to a 3/8" steel plate and set it upon a tanker desk.
> I have the plate nearly ready minus a few motor mount holes but I've decided to use the desk as a desk.
> ...



It needs to be sitting on something as rigid and stable as possible.
A stand built from heavy rectangular or square steel tubing with that 3/8" plate on top would be good.

While wood can be built solidly, it can also distort with changes in temperature and humidity.


M


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## stan2778 (Dec 2, 2012)

I have a Logan 820 that came with a broken leg. Since hopefully within a year I will have a new larger shop and will be moving mine. I built a wooden table for mine. I was also in a hurry to get it running!
I do like the steel tray, but you will need some kind of edge on it so the tools, oil, coolant and swarf stay on there. Mine is plywood and 4x4's with allthread going all the way through the 4x's. nuts above and below the legs for leveling. ( don't forget that! ) What model Logan? Good Luck! I love my Logan.

Stan
http://www.toolfools.com/forum


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## TIB (Dec 2, 2012)

stan2778 said:


> I have a Logan 820 that came with a broken leg. Since hopefully within a year I will have a new larger shop and will be moving mine. I built a wooden table for mine. I was also in a hurry to get it running!
> I do like the steel tray, but you will need some kind of edge on it so the tools, oil, coolant and swarf stay on there. Mine is plywood and 4x4's with allthread going all the way through the 4x's. nuts above and below the legs for leveling. ( don't forget that! ) What model Logan? Good Luck! I love my Logan.
> 
> Stan
> http://www.toolfools.com/forum





7HC said:


> It needs to be sitting on something as rigid and stable as possible.
> A stand built from heavy rectangular or square steel tubing with that 3/8" plate on top would be good.
> 
> While wood can be built solidly, it can also distort with changes in temperature and humidity.
> ...



In my humble opinion itshould be built heavy, strong and to the point of over kill that is unless youare going to be moving it around. I have seldom regretted something built verystrong, but have often lamented under building something like a table.

TIB


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## Ray C (Dec 2, 2012)

I've found that smaller lathes (200 lbs or less) will do OK on sturdily built wooden structures.  Anything above that is better off with solidly built metal benches.  Normally, I don't like to grossly over-build except for my lathes and mills.  In the legs, build-in a provision to install neoprene leveling mounts (see link).  You won't regret it.  I once had a problem on both my lathe and surface grinder with a come-and-go weird surface pattern in the finish.  Installed pads like these and never had a problem after that.

EDIT:  BTW:  Divide your lathe and bench weight by 4 (assuming 4 legs on the bench) and get mounts based on that number.  They're sold in various weight ranges.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MASON-Machine-Leveling-Mount-2LVN6?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1


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## Ray C (Dec 2, 2012)

Yeah... you're right...  Probably should have thought that through before I posted :thinking:.




sssfox said:


> That's not always exactly true.  Most of the lathes out there are significantly heavier on the head end.


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## Tony Wells (Dec 2, 2012)

If I knew (or was pretty sure) that the location was more or less permanent, I'd build a steel a steel frame of 3-4" square tubing and a flat steel top, but form up about 4" and pour concrete. It is self leveling if you mix a little on the soupy side, and would go a long way towards vibration damping.


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## Bill Gruby (Dec 3, 2012)

Levelers are rated by gross machine weight. If the machine weighs 800 lbs. that is the size I would get. That way you are good to go at all positions.

 "Billy G" :thinking:


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## Ray C (Dec 3, 2012)

If you're fitting the levelers to a factory bench, check the size holes it has.  My new machine is something like 1200lbs and the bench is a few hundred.  I was looking at levelers in the 1500 lb range and they had 3/4" bolts.  My machine was on-order at the time so I called and found-out the bench was pre-drilled for 1/2 bolts -so I'm glad I didn't pay 450 bucks for something that wouldn't fit.  Even better, at the time I called, I arranged to buy the levelers a lot cheaper than what I could get them for.

In any event, levelers are good for reasons more than just leveling.

BTW:  The B&S #2 grinder has 5/8" threaded holes in the base and the selection of available levelers was limited.  I made my own easily enough.  If you go on eBay, look up equipment vibration pad.  The black rubber ones are good, come in many different sizes, and I found-out they're rated for 50lbs/sqin.  Just make a metal plate with a retaining divot in the top for the threaded rod and place it on the pad.  -Done!  Works great and cost < 20 bucks for all 4.  Too bad I paid $100 for the other ones...


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## FarFar (Dec 4, 2012)

Hello 

My Boxford (Southbend clone) got 150 kg of granite for X-mas and behaves miles better afterwards

Kind regards 

Farfar


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## Allan (Dec 5, 2012)

I bought some steel tubing and had the local high school welding shop where I used to work build a table for me. I also had it powder coated "safety yellow" which is a UV protected colour so that welding in the vicinity won't cause it to go chalky. 

I built it a bit wide-I wanted it to be stable but the motor almost hit against it but with metal (or granite!) spacers it could be lifted up anyway.

The chip tray was sealed with silicone around the bolt holes to keep oil from dripping underneath. Rough leveling is done with the bolts and lock nuts that screw into nuts welded into the 4 legs. Final leveling is done with the lathe mounting bolts.

My plan is to put birch plywood around the sides (and possibly the doors). That is why there are gussets with holes in the corners. Likewise a metal or plywood shelf will go underneath (Tony has me thinking that I should pour a concrete one; guess I could have done a concrete top!). I want to put one of those big red mechanics tool boxes underneath for tool storage. I may have to take the lid off so I can put chucks on the top without having to wrestle with the lid and chuck at the same time.

If you so desire, I can post the drawings. 
Happy turning. 

Al


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## Tony Wells (Dec 5, 2012)

Nice of you to give the school guys a little project. I remember when we would get projects in to work on. Was better than just "exercises" out of the books. Looks pretty good!


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## Allan (Dec 6, 2012)

Actually it was a little bit of a girl who built it. She did a good job. Every thing was nice and square with minimal clean up required. I'm not set up to weld anymore. Still waiting to finish my shop but way leads on to way...

Al


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## Allan (Dec 6, 2012)

Also,
I covered the entire top with a piece of galvanized sheet so that chips & oil etc don't go down the back. Can't find the picture but you get the idea.


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## The Liberal Arts Garage (May 29, 2015)

7HC said:


> It needs to be sitting on something as rigid and stable as possible.
> A stand built from heavy rectangular or square steel tubing with that 3/8" plate on top would be good.
> 
> While wood can be built solidly, it can also distort with changes in temperature and humidity.
> ...





AirBornOne said:


> Greetings Hobby Machinists,
> I've been lurking around for a while and now it's time to get my lathe setup.
> My original idea was to mount the lathe to a 3/8" steel plate and set it upon a tanker desk.
> I have the plate nearly ready minus a few motor mount holes but I've decided to use the desk as a desk.
> ...


Answer : Both.  Nice, sturdy, well - aged hardwood top 1 1/2" or more,
An elegant set of legs with levellers and a sturdy, low wood shelf to tie the legs.
This is the classic  arrangement - works, looks elegant.........BLJHB


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## eeler1 (May 29, 2015)

My little Logan 9B is mounted on steel sheet, 3/16" thick, spot welded to a metal frame at the four corner posts.  Problem was, it was like a big drum, not sturdy at all.  If you use sheet steel, just make sure it's got cross bracing and tack welded all over.  Yup, rigid is good.


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