# Firewood Processor



## f350ca

I heat my house and shop with a wood fired boiler, burn about 20 face cord a year. I buy a load of logs and cut them up by hand, this year my son helped and we were done in 5 days,so not a huge task, but why do it by hand when i could build a machine to do all the grunt work, and Im not getting any younger.
Here's about 2 1/2 years worth of heat.



.
The basic design will handle 8 to 12 foot logs up to say 20 inch in dia. I'll load the logs onto a deck with the tractor, it will feed them one at a time to a chain that will move them in front of a mechanically driven chain saw bar which will cut them to length. Im thinking a mechanical drive over the more common very inefficient hydraulic drive used in the commercial units. The biggest chain saw you can buy might be 8 hp, a wood splitter with an 8 hp engine will split any wood you through at it, so where do the commercial units use up the 40 to 60 hp diesels they run. They may be quicker than mine but mine will be more efficient (think green). Once the block is cut a tilting table will roll it forward to the operator to position it for the best splitting. The commercial units split the block however it falls and produce an abundance of slivers. once split the wood will move to a short conveyor to load it onto a trailer for stacking.
Sounds easy, now we'll see if I can build it.
This project may take a while, I'll update as I go.
Greg


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## f350ca

I rebuilt this old Wisconsin a year or so back with plans of running the processor with it.







It produces 16 god fearing horse power at 26
00 rpm with a 100% duty cycle.
It had seen a hard life on a NewHolland bailer. There was about 20 thou taper in the cylinders, decided to try boring it out on the lathe.


Worked like a charm, couldn't detect any taper or out of round with my dial bore gauge, a final honing brought it into spec for a 30 thou over set of pistons and rings.
The crank runs on tapered roller bearings, the end play on them was still in spec as were the babbit rod bearings. Yes rabbit rod bearings as in Model T Ford, this engine has been around a while.
It needed valve guides which are still available from Wisconsin. The valves and seats were ground and lapped in. The throttle shaft in the carb was badly worn as was the body, it was reamed out oversized and a new throttle plate shaft fabricated.
Runs like new now, waiting for a load.
Interesting point with these engines, both pistons go up and down at the same time to give a power stroke every turn, to do this they have massive counterweights on the crank, and a flywheel that must weigh 30 or 40 pounds. As a result, when you rev it up the twist in the plane of the flywheel is incredible. I had it bolted down to two 4x4s on the shop floor, with the bucket of the tractor holding them down. It would sit there and idle no problem, till you changed the speed, as it revved up it would twist the timbers from under the bucket, then sit there at the new speed. Had to put a rubber mat under the wood to give some friction on the concrete.

Greg

- - - Updated - - -

Built a CNC plasma table last winter and haven't had much chance to play with it. Today decided to learn how to nest parts, while making a sprocket for what I think is called Link Belt Chain. I have the chain from an old sawmill but no mating sprockets.




Parts for a sprocket in kit form.




This will probably be for the conveyor to move the split wood to the trailer.




Greg


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## Rbeckett

I'm all the way impressed. If you use a very large and heavy flywheel on the splitter and a rod with teeth to drive it into the wood at speed it will split a 20 inch log 4 ways in one whack.  If you are interested in something like that look up the old lickety split log splitters and ramp your size up accordingly.  It would cut your work time to about as fast as you could reload the ram and hit it again.  Just watch out for your fingers and other parts of your body because it isn't going to stop if it hits bone...  That old Wisconsin even has the Fairbanks Morse spring loaded ignition system.  Oh those were the days when Gravely tractors used them too.  I could time one in no time flat after a while, but it took a lot of patience at first.  Keep us abreast of the build as it progresses.

Bob


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## xalky

I love these types of projects. A flywheel sounds like the way to go to store up energy.


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## f350ca

Plan on using this feed chain off an old sand truck to advance the log  as its cut into blocks. The links are frozen with rust.




Used a couple of bars and a lot of hammering to fold it up, now its time to let some molasses do its magic.




I'll be back in a couple of weeks with an update.

Greg


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## Bill Gruby

This is amazing.

 "Billy G"


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## toolman_ar

Please do a google search for Bob Cat Wood Splitter.

Reading about your project prompted me to watch this once more.

Picks the log, cuts, then splits.

Great project!

toolman_ar


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## 12bolts

f350ca said:


> I There was about 20 thou taper in the cylinders, decided to try boring it out on the lathe.
> View attachment 83295



I hope you didnt switch the lathe on while you were setting up for this shot. That could get real messy, real fast 

Cheers Phil


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## GarageGuy

Awesome project!  I can't wait to see the build progress.  Keep us updated!

GG


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## f350ca

The cabinets I've been building are just about done so time to get back at this project.
The log being cut will be indexed on a conveyer. Decided to go with #80 roller chain to move it along. This is way heavier than needed but the dimensions are nice to work with 1 inch pitch and the deciding factor 5/16 pins. I'll need bars to grab the log, these parts will replace the side plates at 2 foot intervals. Then crossers can be welded to these. The corners needed to be rounded to clear the next link as it rolls around the sprockets. Set up this jig on the rotary table, it has a shoulder to align the link and a hole for a bolt through one of the holes to locate it.


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## f350ca

Looking back on this thread I realized I had;t given an update on how that chain cleaned up. The molasses did its job, after about 2 months of soaking the chain looked like new, spotless but the pins were still frozen in the links. With enough force the pins would twist off before they'd turn so it got scrapped.
Actually Phil that had the bore centred to be cut, the boring bar is off to the side. Here's a video of boring it.




I've seen videos of those inertia wood splitters Bob, don't think I have the nerve or reflexes to use one though.
Greg


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## mattthemuppet2

crumbs Dangermouse, you don't aim small do you?! Loved the CNC plasma cutting, that must really open up the possibilities of what you can make.

Did you finish up the Mule? I must have missed the end of that project..


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## Reeltor

Getting back to the flywheel log splitters, DR is making them (search drlogsplitter on Google).  I'm wondering if a homemade one can be fabricated up.  There are a number of YouTube videos for both the flywheel type splitters and homemade firewood processors for ideas.


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## f350ca

The 14 tooth #80 sprockets I ordered came in, need weld in hubs that will centre the sprocket between two side rails, so the off the shelf ones wouldn't work. 
The shaper doesn't get used often but its nice to have for things like this.



The sprocket pressed on its new hub, one more to go.




The cabinets I've been working on are done so hopefully will get some more time to work on this now.

Greg


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## uncle harry

f350ca said:


> I rebuilt this old Wisconsin a year or so back with plans of running the processor with it.
> 
> View attachment 83293
> 
> 
> View attachment 83294
> 
> 
> It produces 16 god fearing horse power at 26
> 00 rpm with a 100% duty cycle.
> It had seen a hard life on a NewHolland bailer. There was about 20 thou taper in the cylinders, decided to try boring it out on the lathe.
> View attachment 83295
> 
> Worked like a charm, couldn't detect any taper or out of round with my dial bore gauge, a final honing brought it into spec for a 30 thou over set of pistons and rings.
> The crank runs on tapered roller bearings, the end play on them was still in spec as were the babbit rod bearings. Yes rabbit rod bearings as in Model T Ford, this engine has been around a while.
> It needed valve guides which are still available from Wisconsin. The valves and seats were ground and lapped in. The throttle shaft in the carb was badly worn as was the body, it was reamed out oversized and a new throttle plate shaft fabricated.
> Runs like new now, waiting for a load.
> Interesting point with these engines, both pistons go up and down at the same time to give a power stroke every turn, to do this they have massive counterweights on the crank, and a flywheel that must weigh 30 or 40 pounds. As a result, when you rev it up the twist in the plane of the flywheel is incredible. I had it bolted down to two 4x4s on the shop floor, with the bucket of the tractor holding them down. It would sit there and idle no problem, till you changed the speed, as it revved up it would twist the timbers from under the bucket, then sit there at the new speed. Had to put a rubber mat under the wood to give some friction on the concrete.
> 
> Greg
> 
> - - - Updated - - -
> 
> Built a CNC plasma table last winter and haven't had much chance to play with it. Today decided to learn how to nest parts, while making a sprocket for what I think is called Link Belt Chain. I have the chain from an old sawmill but no mating sprockets.
> 
> View attachment 83298
> 
> 
> Parts for a sprocket in kit form.
> 
> View attachment 83300
> 
> 
> This will probably be for the conveyor to move the split wood to the trailer.
> 
> View attachment 83301
> 
> 
> Greg



Super restoration on the Wisconsin. Yes the earlier models were good vibrators. The design was revised in later models to be alternate firing with a balanced crank. The revised design, when used on large cement haulers for unloading had to have a counterweight  added to the system to restore the vibration. The original design helped vibrate the cement for unloading.


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## f350ca

Welded up the sprockets for the drag chain. Cheated a bit, used a motorized chuck I rigged up, has a DC gear head motor and  a variable power supply, dial in your speed and let it weld.




Had to cut these out holding the plasma torch by hand, how archaic. 




My friend has been storing this mag based drill here for years. I don't use it often but it sure is handy when the parts are too big to go on the mill.




Greg


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## hermetic

Hi all, nice looking project, and you did a real good job on the engine rebuild!
Can I ask about the shaper job cutting the keyway, did you  cut on the forward stroke as normal, or did you lock the clapper box off and cut on the back stroke? I ask because I have always cut keyways in the lathe with a boring bar in the toolpost, using the traverse as a mandraulic shaper. Then I bought an old book on sharpening shaper tools, which told me that when cutting keyways, it was best to lock the clapper box and cut on the backstroke, but annoyingly, didn't say WHY this was best. Anyone have any ideas?
Phil
UK


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## hermetic

Meant to add the fact that I now have an Alba 1A shaper!


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## f350ca

Hi Phil, I cut them on the forward stroke. Read the same somewhere, don't recall a reason either. On my little Logan there is no easy way to lock the clapper. When i grind the cutter I don't give it a lot of rake or bottom clearance, seams to reduce chatter, but as a result I need to keep an allen wrench in that set screw on the end of the bar to add down force by hand or it will try and ride up during the cut. Cause and effect I guess.

Greg


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## hermetic

Yes! Agreed, when I read this I wracked my brain and could not come up with a reason why back stroke cutting would be better. Using the lathe was actually a lot easier than I thought it would be, I used a sturdy boring bar about 3/4" diameter, and ground the cutting tool virtually as you describe, it took longer to set it all up than it actually did to cut the key. I was building a winch to lift the front end of  cars for suspended towing, I used a selection of gears from an Ariel Arrow motorcycle gearbox, and it worked very well! Incidentally, there is no way to lock the clapper on most shapers afaIk, the book I read suggested drilling and tapping the edges of the clapper box and bolting a strap across the clapper. I can understand why you would do it for an undercut like an dovetail for a topslide/crosslide etc, as in that case the tool would drag on the backstroke, but cutting a key that way made no sense, unless anyone else can come up with a reason.
Phil


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## f350ca

Phil, without pictures the winch never happened.  
I've cut more dovetails than keyways with the shaper, but its been a while. Think I swung the clapper box to an angle between the two sides to let it clear. Guess the memory is the first thing to go.



Greg


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## hermetic

Pictures..............I wish, I built it in the 1970's, actually I may have one somwhere, but it will be a "hard copy"
Phil


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## f350ca

The roller chain arrived today, with it in hand I could check my calculations for spacing between the shafts. Made up the tensioners and cut the beds to length.


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## f350ca

Picked up some bronze for the shaft bushings on the conveyer. I've heard of silver solder, with the price they're as they must be adding gold to bronze now




Bored the bushings and made up the shafts today.





Greg


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## f350ca

Made a simple jig to hole the parts of the grousers together while welding.




The same jig worked to hold them on the plasma table to cut its teeth.




Assembled the side rails then as expected had to scrape the bronze bearings after bolting them up to the weldament.




Greg


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## f350ca

Have built most of the clamp that will hold the log while its being cut. Looks a little sinister.



The plasma table I built about a year ago is incredible for fabricating these parts.




Greg


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## JimDawson

Those jaws look like they could chew a car in half.


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## f350ca

Have the metal work on the log bunk pretty much wrapped up. Will bolt hardwood planks to the angle irons to guide the log.







Greg


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## f350ca

Tackled the splitter next. Used a 3 inch bore cylinder, with a two stage pump it will generate 10 1/2 tons force. The 30 inch stroke will allow me to cut longer wood to suit the boiler.




Next step is the chainsaw.




This is the spindle that will drive the sprocket with the centre shaft. The middle mandrel will be mounted solid and the bar will pivot on the outer section.






All the lathe work is completed, still need to do some drilling and threading for the sprocket and bar mounts.




Greg


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## f350ca

Have the saw pretty much wrapped up.
This is the tensioner mechanism that the bar mounts to.



With the bar in place.




Bar clamp and sprocket mounted.




Next step was the chain oiler.
It is hydraulically activated with the down force cylinder for the bar, the spring returns the piston when the hydraulic line is dumped to the tank.




Assembled.




Greg


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## f350ca

Had put this project on the back burner over the summer. 
The next step is probably a frame to mount all the components to. Was given some 6 x 6 I-beam that would have worked but a friend had this frame that he was going to use for a saw mill. Two one ton truck frames mated together. Its currently 25 feet long, I'll be shortening it to maybe 16 for the processor.



Nice to get it home before winter strikes.

Greg


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## Andy Rafferty

This is something I will watch with great interest. Great Job on the engine I have had two of the same model one had a distributor on it, I quickly found a mag and converted it. Good lick on the build and keep the pics coming


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## brino

f350ca said:


> My friend has been storing this mag based drill here for years. I don't use it often but it sure is handy when the parts are too big to go on the mill.



I need more friends like that! 
-brino


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## f350ca

I have three of the them Andy, think they could all be rebuilt if needed. Another friend has a four cylinder one, he said I could have if this one doesn't have the oomph to run the processor but I expect it will. 
Its a fairly symbiotic friendship brino, things seam to get passed back and forth quite often. It was the owner of the drill that supplied the frame Im going to use. I see we're virtually neighbours, if your ever over this way drop in for a coffee.

Greg


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## f350ca

Fabricated an axle for it to ride on. Machined the ends of a 3/4 ton rear axle to press into a length of 3 inch shed 40 pipe. Cutting the housing down with a live 3 jaw chuck in the tail stock.




Pulled the ends into the pipe with an 8 foot length of threaded rod and welded them in. 






Now to clean up the bearings and reassemble the hubs. 
Should make a good stout axle when I need to bounce this thing through the bush.

Greg


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## brino

Greg,

Thanks for all the great pictures.
It is coming along very well.
It is going to be an absolute beast!

-brino


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## f350ca

After a lot of cutting and grinding on the side rails we have a sub frame to mount parts to.



Oh the rails aren't as curved as the camera portray's them.

Greg


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## FOMOGO

Really nice build Greg, looking forward to seeing it in action. Seems like you have pretty much everything you need tool wise to get the job done in short order, and obviously the talent. The only thing missing is some of that shiny ceramic tile or checkerboard race deck stuff to spiff up the floor.  Cheers, Mike


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## dirty tools

Last summer I help my nephew cut, split transfer and them the wood  then store 2 cords of fire wood.
That was a lot or work.
We was thinking of  getting a log splitter to make it a lot easer.


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## f350ca

Thanks Mike, I have a really hard time keeping the house some what shinny let alone the shop. 


Greg


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## f350ca

It all looked good on paper but it was sure good to tack the assemblies together and see them fit.


 The simulated smoke flavoured log aka garbage can is 19 inches in dia so it will cut a 24 inch log as planned. 
A couple more parts to mount then I can start laying out the drive train.

Thanks for watching
Greg


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## Bill Gruby

Garbage cans are too long are they. LOL  Nice work.


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## f350ca

I need a transfer case of sorts to drive two pumps that won't take a side load and the clutch for the saw. 
The roughed out bearing mounts, these will get welded into the case then line bored in the mill.



The case is welded up, I have it sitting on 3 points on the mill so as not to twist it while the bolt surface is being milled flat.




Next step is to line the cover up and drill for bolts and tapered alignment pins, then line bore the bearing bosses. 
Thanks for watching.

Greg


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## FOMOGO

Nice job on the transfer case. Chain or belt drive? Mike


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## f350ca

Thanks Mike, #40 roller chain, with a 24 and 30 tooth sprocket. The engine runs at 2800 rpm this will step the clutch up to 3600. A belt drive from there will spin the chainsaw sprocket at 7400 rpm to get the 7000 fpm Oregon wants for this chain.

Greg


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## f350ca

Building the pump mounts now. There will be a LoveJoy coupling between the box and each pump.







Greg


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## f350ca

Well it looks like we'll need to find another project for the Wisconsin engine.
BIG gloat here,
A chap I do some work for is rebuilding a 1928 Chev. He brought the spindles over for me to replace the king pin bushings, when he asked how much I told him I only charge for work related stuff. This morning he landed in the yard with this genset. Figured I needed a diesel for the processor. Its a Kubota D600 3 cylinder 14 hp. He said it ran perfect, but has been sitting in a shed for about 20 years.


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## f350ca

Got the alternator off the engine. Spinning the flywheel by hand indicated no compression at first. After a few revolutions I started to get compression on one cylinder. Expecting stuck valves.



Greg


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## f350ca

The valves seam to be moving fine so Im guessing the rings are stuck. I pilled the glow plugs and have been soaking the cylinders with an ATF and Acetone mix.
As the engine marinates Im back at the transfer case.
This is the driven shaft, it will spin the one hydraulic pump and the electric clutch.
I need to cut a keyway down the 1:4 taper, any suggestions as to how to hold it in the mill?


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## mattthemuppet2

in v blocks attached to an angle plate? It'll be a bit of a flexi flier but it might work..


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## f350ca

I'd forgotten I'd made this tooling plate for another project, then never used it. Worked like a charm, sort of a sine plate with the machinist jack at the one end to adjust the angle.




The finished product.




Greg


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## mattthemuppet2

sweet! As I like to say of myself, even a blind squirrel finds a nut every so often  Cool clamps and jacks too, I'll remember that for when I need it.


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## FOMOGO

Great score on the Kabota Greg, even if you have to tear it down to free it up, and a nice solution on the keyway. That good karma does come back around. Mike


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## f350ca

You may have heard the sigh of relief I made when a test assembly showed the shafts were the correct length and the couplings fit in the pump mounts.







A very relieved Greg


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## f350ca

made the chain tensioner today. Had a piece of ultra high density polyethylene, there's a 3/8 bolt behind it to adjust the tension.




Greg


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## extropic

Just bumped into this thread and caught up.
Add me to your list of admirers.
Great project and thanks for keeping us posted.
Can't wait to see it in action.


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## f350ca

Built the cradle mount for the gearbox, crossmember and engine beds.




Greg


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## f350ca

Been a while since I posted any updates, things progress slowly at this stage.
Made up the drive shaft.



Started on the log stop and framing for the area that will handle the cut blocks and split wood.




Greg


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## f350ca

Started on the stop that set the length of blocks I cut. The actual stop will be attached to this sliding bar. When the advancing log contacts, it will slide along and open a valve to dump the hydraulic fluid feeding the motor on the conveyor and in theory stop the log at the length I want.
This was the longest keyway I've ever cut, the collar that the arm will be mounted to will have set screws that can slide in the keyway as you adjust the length of block but keep it indexed. As the saw comes down a cam will rotate the shaft and lift the arm out of the way.




Just finished cutting the keyway in this collar on the shaper. And it even fit.




Greg


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## Deerslayer

Great looking work.
 I have built a few splitters but never a processor. I believe I read a 3" cylinder with 10.5 tons of force for splitting? I can't see that being effective particularly if your gonna run a 6 or 8 way wedge? We run a 4" cylinder at 3000 psi and it struggled occasionally with the four way on difficult wood.  Just my thoughts, you have obviously thought this out its evident by your nice work.


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## f350ca

Deerslayer said:


> Great looking work.
> I have built a few splitters but never a processor. I believe I read a 3" cylinder with 10.5 tons of force for splitting? I can't see that being effective particularly if your gonna run a 6 or 8 way wedge? We run a 4" cylinder at 3000 psi and it struggled occasionally with the four way on difficult wood.  Just my thoughts, you have obviously thought this out its evident by your nice work.


Thanks,
Its only going to have a single wedge, the wood I get varies a lot in size, some only needs a single split, some 6 or 8. The single wedge is slower but in the end I get wood the size I want. The splitter Im using now has a 3 inch cylinder but its fed off a single stage pump on the tractor at 1800 psi. It runs out of push from time to time, so Im hoping the two stage pump will give it the ump I need.

Greg


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## f350ca

Have the log stop pretty much wrapped up.
I needed a valve to dump the fluid feeding the advance motor when the log hit the stop. I had a couple of sections from a stackable valve but no manifolds. Since the manifold will only be at tank pressure I made them out of aluminum.



As the log advances it hits the arm which slides the shaft along compressing the spring and opening the valve. The spring also counter balances the arm to bring it back down.




As the saw comes down a quick acting cam lifts the arm out of the way.


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## brino

Greg, if you ever sell tickets to watch this thing run I'll be first in line to buy one! 

I really appreciate all the pictures and the thought that went into the design.

-brino


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## f350ca

Doubt if ticket revenue would pay for the fuel during the demo, and this engine apparently only burns a liter per hour. lol
Drop over some time and I'll give you the 5 cent tour.

Greg


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## SpecialEd

Very nice work!


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## f350ca

Once you get the shaper set up multiple keyways are quick. Can cut one in probably under a minute. The first one though I had the stroke speed slow to see how it was going, took too big a bite and it snapped the 1/4 cutter without even mowning.



These are the sprockets for the drag chains on top of the log bunks. Cut them on the plasma cutter. Now ready for welding.




These are the bunks the logs will feed from. Number 60 roller chain will be on top to drag the logs along. Folding extensions will go out to the side. Its starting to outgrow the shop.




Thanks for watching.
Greg


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## Grumpy Gator

_Greg,_
_What ever happened to the Aligator build ?_
_   *G*_


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## f350ca

The alligator went on hold for the winter but we should be back at it soon, if it ever warms up here. I need to get the paddle wheels assembled but the processor is taking up pretty much all my shop space.

Greg


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## Grumpy Gator

_OK  
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 I'll wait till the snow melts up there._
_*G*_


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## f350ca

grumpygator said:


> _OK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 126222
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll wait till the snow melts up there._
> _*G*_
> 
> View attachment 126221


This year I wouldn't be holding your breath, the fools are forecasting -19C Monday might.

Greg


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## mattthemuppet2

as the Gingerbread Man says "you're a monster"


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## uncle harry

f350ca said:


> Have the log stop pretty much wrapped up.
> I needed a valve to dump the fluid feeding the advance motor when the log hit the stop. I had a couple of sections from a stackable valve but no manifolds. Since the manifold will only be at tank pressure I made them out of aluminum.
> 
> 
> 
> As the log advances it hits the arm which slides the shaft along compressing the spring and opening the valve. The spring also counter balances the arm to bring it back down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As the saw comes down a quick acting cam lifts the arm out of the way.



Aluminum is used to make high pressure manifolds DO8 size (1") hydraulic valves.  If your threads are deep enough you should have no problem.


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## f350ca

Been doing lots of little bits that aren't worth posting. Wiring the engine, building throttle and shut down linkages etc.
With a box of fittings in hand we started running pipe today. Takes a while to get your head around where they need to run to avoid the next one and what direction to make the bend (yah had to cut a couple of bends off) . One end is flared but the ends at the valve had to be silver soldered on, the valve is too small for the flare nuts to clear each other.




Greg


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## Bill Gruby

That thing is going to be a hydraulic nightmare if it starts to loose pressure anywhere Greg.

 "Billy G"


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## uncle harry

Bill Gruby said:


> That thing is going to be a hydraulic nightmare if it starts to loose pressure anywhere Greg.
> 
> "Billy G"



Why ?


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## Martin W

Greg,
Your processor is awesome! Very professional, the hydraulics look factory made. 
Martin


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## FOMOGO

I love it, about the only thing I use firewood for anymore is the fire pit but that's so cool I may have build one anyway. Mike


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## f350ca

Starting to look like a pot of spaghetti, have 100 feet of tubing ran so far.




Greg


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## brino

just the oil volume of that tubing is significant!


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## Billh51

brino said:


> just the oil volume of that tubing is significant!


Just looked at this build and had to start at the beginning and read it through. Wow, nice build. I have built several splitters over the years but nothing on this scale. Can't wait to see more progress and nice work man.


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## f350ca

The 6 spool control valve was too small for the 5/8th lines but thought I could get away with silver soldering adaptors with smaller hex's but still too tight. 
Made spacers to stager the nuts and give room for the wrench. The Hardinge really shines when internal threading to a shoulder, the male threads were easy with the O-ring groove at the bottom. The female end needed a 12 deg taper for the O-ring to seat.



The spacers installed and my nuts tight.




The steel lines are finally done, now to make up some hoses to the cylinders.


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## uncle harry

f350ca said:


> The 6 spool control valve was too small for the 5/8th lines but thought I could get away with silver soldering adaptors with smaller hex's but still too tight.
> Made spacers to stager the nuts and give room for the wrench. The Hardinge really shines when internal threading to a shoulder, the male threads were easy with the O-ring groove at the bottom. The female end needed a 12 deg taper for the O-ring to seat.
> 
> 
> 
> The spacers installed and my nuts tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The steel lines are finally done, now to make up some hoses to the cylinders.



I am assuming that you made the adapters with a Hardinge lathe.  They are still very usable & "programmable" masterpieces of pre-cnc technology.  I'm wondering, looking at the valve if it's flow characteristics prescribed 3/8" tubing considering wrench clearances.   I like your use of tubing over just hoses. They are good for  dissipating heat.


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## Bill Gruby

It was said in jest.
 "Billy G"


uncle harry said:


> Why ?


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## f350ca

Your right Harry, the valve was designed for smaller tubing and the pump feeding it is only 2 gal/min, but I had the 5/8 tubing. Probably could have ignored the reservoir and just relied on the tubing volume. As a note the plumbing used up 120 feet of tubing with a few pieces less than 2 feet long left over. Actually had to tig weld two pieces together to finish the last 4 foot run. Did I mention this project was on a tight budget.

Greg


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## extropic

The project may be on  tight budget , however, it's experiencing an abundance of admirable execution.

Can't wait to see it make little ones from big ones.


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## f350ca

Been at it doing small things that don't show like making up hoses and wiring the engine.The last couple of days got a few things done.

Built the chain guard for the saw.




Started the grating around the splitter.




And the stops to separate the logs on the bunks.




Greg


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## JimDawson

That is quite a machine.  Looking good!


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## f350ca

Made the engine cover.



And a custom grill with my initials.




Greg


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## Martin W

You do very nice work. Keep it up. Thank you.
Martin W


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## f350ca

Thanks Martin
Looks like the end is in sight. Think the next step will be getting the axle under it to get it mobile. Need to get it outdoors where there's room to build the log bunks.

Greg


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## Martin W

Hi Greg,
May I ask where you sourced your chain bar and hydraulic drive motor for it? I've been keeping an eye on kijiji for a used hydraulic motor. What type of hydraulic pump are you using? I have an old payloader that I was going to use as a donor for hydraulics and the engine. Been thinking of making a quick attach system to hook up to the payloader?
Cheers
Martin


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## Martin W

I just went back thru all the posts and I didn't realize you fabricated the saw!  Nice work. What type of hydraulic motor runs it?
Thanks
Martin W


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## Reuben Bailey

f350ca said:


> .
> The basic design will handle 8 to 12 foot logs up to say 20 inch in dia. I'll load the logs onto a deck with the tractor, it will feed them one at a time to a chain that will move them in front of a mechanically driven chain saw bar which will cut them to length. Im thinking a mechanical drive over the more common very inefficient hydraulic drive used in the commercial units. The biggest chain saw you can buy might be 8 hp, a wood splitter with an 8 hp engine will split any wood you through at it, so where do the commercial units use up the 40 to 60 hp diesels they run. They may be quicker than mine but mine will be more efficient (think green). Once the block is cut a tilting table will roll it forward to the operator to position it for the best splitting. The commercial units split the block however it falls and produce an abundance of slivers. once split the wood will move to a short conveyor to load it onto a trailer for stacking.
> Sounds easy, now we'll see if I can build it.
> This project may take a while, I'll update as I go.
> Greg



Martin, in the first post (quoted here) Greg mentions that he is using a mechanical drive rather than a hydraulic...

Greg, this is quite a piece of work! Awesome! I think, though, that your definition and mine of "tight budget" might vary just a bit... *chuckle* Again, nice work!


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## f350ca

Hi Martin, as Reuben said the saw is belt driven through an electric clutch. I was planning on going with a serpentine belt but was given a new clutch with a single A section V belt drive. Think it will carry the load, if not an upgrade to serpentine or twin V belts won't be too tough.
Reuben, think we will get it operating for about 5% of the cost of a small commercial one. Thats a fair cost under run.
Thanks for looking.

Greg


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## Martin W

Thanks
I missed that part. He is doing a fine job with the build. I guess I just assumed it would be hydraulic driven.
Cheers
Martin W


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## Reuben Bailey

Yeah, I'd say that is a comparatively low budget... *chuckle* *grin* I was thinking more in absolute terms, I guess... Keep up the excellent work and the pictures of it.


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## f350ca

Installed the axle and moved it outside today. Then the shop got cleaned, the first time since January










Greg


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## davidh

wow !  thats a serious machine.   nice job.


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## f350ca

IT LIVES






Greg


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## brino

What a BEAST!
I can't wait to see it handle some bigger stuff.

Nice work and thanks for documenting the build so well. I know it takes extra effort and discipline.

-brino


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## rwm

Spectacular! What a machine! Keep the video coming.
R


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## Billh51

Nice progress on the wood prosesser . Looks like will handle anything you want to run through it. Should be a nice machine when all done and painted up. Great craftsmanship, keep up the nice work.


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## valleyboy101

The wood processor has seen some serious progress.  It will greatly reduce the sweat quotient for a cord of wood.
Michael


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## f350ca

Been a while since I updated or for that matter got to work on this project.
In my defence, the machine shop stays in the 60's all summer, well insulated and shaded. We've been getting 90 deg weather with high humidity for the last month. If I open the big doors to get this out all my machines are instantly covered in condensation when the warm wet air comes in.
Enough excuses.
The next step was to build a live deck to feed the logs. It will fold out beside the machine with #90 roller chain on top of the bunks to skid the logs along.
I found 24 inches of 1 3/8 4 tpi acme rod, believe it was levelling scaffolding. I threaded a 4 inch section which I later cut in 3 for the bottom of the legs.



Since I couldn't get the machine outside I built the deck in the folded position. Was quite a job getting the bunks all level and square before welding in hopes that they unfold properly when I get it outside. Had to build a double pinned hinge to get 180 degree rotation for folding.



Now I need to get it outside to add a small channel to the top of the bunks for a chain guide and install the drag chains.

Greg


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## Rick Berk

Thanks for the update, I would like to do some real world testing on that for a week or so. How in the world will you ever get it painted?


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## f350ca

Painting is going to be a serious job Rick. I usually disassemble everything to get paint on all the surfaces but this time there's too many parts to even think about it, let alone fine enough space too spread the parts out. It will get a good degreasing and pressure washing then start spraying. I can put it up on the car hoist to get the underside, that will help.
Got it outside today to verify the hinge system on the log deck worked .



Greg


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## Groundhog

I wonder how many thousands of hay bales I had to pick up and stack during my high school summers. Most produced by one of those evil Wisconsin motors - and no matter how hard I prayed the sucker would never break.


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## uncle harry

Groundhog said:


> I wonder how many thousands of hay bales I had to pick up and stack during my high school summers. Most produced by one of those evil Wisconsin motors - and no matter how hard I prayed the sucker would never break.



Yup, before stellite valves they were nasty buggers. And vapor lock  !  Masters of the art of vapor locking.


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## Rick Berk

uncle harry said:


> Yup, before stellite valves they were nasty buggers. And vapor lock  !  Masters of the art of vapor locking.


Explain to me how stellite valves prevent vapor locking. I'm at a complete loss as to correlation.


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## uncle harry

Rick Berk said:


> Explain to me how stellite valves prevent vapor locking. I'm at a complete loss as to correlation.





Rick Berk said:


> Explain to me how stellite valves prevent vapor locking. I'm at a complete loss as to correlation.



Nothing that I can think of.  Just two unrelated maladies of the earlier Wisconsin engines.  Pre-stellite valves would fail often.


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## Martin W

Yup we had one on an Allis Chalmers combine. Had a hand crank. When cold you could put it on the compression stroke and she would start on a 1/2 a crank. When it was hot we would have to start it with a flat belt and pulley off the tractor. Man I hated that machine 
Martin W


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## Silverbullet

Now here's a build , you out did yourself . Great job . You have an extremely nice shop , good things come from home shops like yours. I have the same mag drill , it came from a rental business , he wasn't able to rent it for a reason I've never encountered all the times I used it. They said the mag let go when it was used , the price was right free. Pays to be a good neighbor to them. I've been thinking of building a hydraulic bender . Another project on my list. 
Did you use the diesel or the wisse? I thought I saw the diesel in the frame.


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## f350ca

Thanks, seam to spend more time in the shop than the house so it should be nice. lol The drill belongs to a buddy, recall him saying the magnet has let go on him too, but its never failed me. With the torque they develop it wouldn't be pretty if it did let go.
Went with the diesel, they're both about the same rated horse power, expect the Kubota to be a lot more economical to run.
Made supports for the log deck to fold on today and started on a reservoir for the chain oil.
Close to paint time.

Greg


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## strantor

I have that same mag drill too, and it has let go on me; got the scar and busted motor housing to prove it.


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## countryguy

I just want to see more VIDEO of this thing chewing wood!  With 14 face-cord in my shed now for winter, each stick done by my 2 hands,  I just love that thing!


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## f350ca

Will get a video as soon as its operating. Picked up the small channel for the chain guides on the bunks yesterday. Now have to weld all that upside down, can't open the deck in the shop, and can't get the welder  out to where I can open the deck.
I cut 20 some face cords each year.

Greg


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## Martin W

Hi Greg
Do you sell wood too or 20 cord to burn? I had a wood stove in my house but half the rooms were cold. I burned 8 cord a year. Now I have a boiler and every room is warm and I burn 12-15 face cord. It's a lot of work , but I enjoy being in the bush.
By the way I think your processor is awesome!
Martin W


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## f350ca

I have a boiler as well Martin. Heat the house and the shop with about 20 face cord a year. Installed radiant heat everywhere, nice to have warm toes in January.

Greg


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## uncle harry

f350ca said:


> I have a boiler as well Martin. Heat the house and the shop with about 20 face cord a year. Installed radiant heat everywhere, nice to have warm toes in January.
> 
> Greg



I live near a friend & business guy who heats his very large shop and another sizable out building with a wood burning boiler. He feeds the burner with a fork lift that has 6 ft long "tongs" that will place 2 1/2 ft. dia. & larger logs in the 'stove'.  He gets his wood for free & delivered.  It's a win-win situation. Local tree services truck full logs there to save labor and disposal costs. The "cool" part of it is most of the heat is "in-slab" hot water. I've been helping him with the design of a semi-automatic sawmill so that in future he can process lumber with the good stuff.  ..... And, I hope this isn't hijacking the thread but maybe parallel to it.


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## f350ca

Threads are for discussion Harry, carry on. The boiler I have is a high efficiency unit that meets EPA standards for some states. It uses a down draft system through a refractory reburn chamber. They claim it gasifies the wood then reburns the gases at 1800 deg F. When its running all you see are heat waves off the stack or water vapour if its real cold. 10 years and I've never cleaned the chimney so I guess it works. BUT it needs well seasoned wood to work well.
I put inslab heating in the machine shop but it didn't work out. The building seams to be too well insulated if thats possible, if we get a few really cold days the floor temp would increase to compensate, then we get mild weather and the slab would take a week to cool down and I was in my underwear trying to work. I installed an overhead rad heater with a fan to warm the air when you open the big doors. Thats all that heats the shop now and it might come on twice a day in cold weather. Amazingly the floor stays about 65 F according to the infrared temp gun.
The cabinet shop and house have radiant heat using pex pipe attached to the floor joists, it works great. Without the thermal mass the outdoor temperature swings go un noticed,


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## countryguy

I had to laugh as I thought out our little 22" stove pipe wood burner (glass door) and about 7 fans (that fall over w/ dogs and cats) and make so much noise, they drive you NUTS by January...  Just to push it all around our large 2 story place...  
I think if they work that well f350, I should check into a unit like yours!  May as well heat efficiently when I work so hard for the wood?


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## f350ca

Been there, the first winter in this old house that had no insulation I went around with boots on as the floors were so cold.

Here's a link to the company i got the boiler from.
http://www.alternateheatingsystems.com/wood-gun.html

Been pretty much trouble free for 10 years now.

Greg


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## f350ca

Got the oiler for the chain saw working so it was time for a proper test. 
The log deck still needed the chain on the centre bunk, once it was installed the logs feed properly.
The chute the log drops into still needs planking to centre the log when it rolls in.
The feed chain on the log chute is too slow, will have to change the ratio on the drive chain to sort that out.
The saw works great, I was worried the single belt drive would slip but that isn't an issue at all. In fact I managed to clamp the log too tight and bound the saw, it will stall the engine.
The cut block hangs up on the saw guard as it rolls over to the splitter. Not sure there is much I can do about that. Not a huge issue, think I can live with it.
The splitter is great. Fast and powerful. As you can see 30 inch long oak blocks are pretty much a joke for it.
All in all I'm pleased.
Couple of little things to finish up and we should be painting it latter
this week.






Thanks for watching,

Greg


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## JimDawson

Sure beats the heck out of a chain saw and a splitting maul.    Great job!


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## uncle harry

f350ca said:


> Got the oiler for the chain saw working so it was time for a proper test.
> The log deck still needed the chain on the centre bunk, once it was installed the logs feed properly.
> The chute the log drops into still needs planking to centre the log when it rolls in.
> The feed chain on the log chute is too slow, will have to change the ratio on the drive chain to sort that out.
> The saw works great, I was worried the single belt drive would slip but that isn't an issue at all. In fact I managed to clamp the log too tight and bound the saw, it will stall the engine.
> The cut block hangs up on the saw guard as it rolls over to the splitter. Not sure there is much I can do about that. Not a huge issue, think I can live with it.
> The splitter is great. Fast and powerful. As you can see 30 inch long oak blocks are pretty much a joke for it.
> All in all I'm pleased.
> Couple of little things to finish up and we should be painting it latter
> this week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Greg



A video is worth a million words.  A suggestion for the chainsaw guard problem might be to add a pivot at the back of the guard to raise it enough to clear the exiting logs when the saw is retracted. I didn't back review your thread to grasp how you are engaging the saw to the engine.  If you are using an electric clutch you could provide safety by using a limit switche to activate the clutch once the guard is down. The guard pivot cylinder could be piped parallel with the saw  pivot cylinder thus eliminating the need for another valve.      Edit: I re-reviewed the entire thread & noticed another simpler way to control pivoting the guard.  You might consider tying a guard pivoting cylinder with the log clamp.  Again parallel piping would lift the guard while clamping the log.


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## strantor

f350ca said:


> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Greg


I played the video to see the machine in action, but before long I was having more fun watching you operate it. You are beaming with satisfaction over your creation, and I would be also. Congrats. Truly awesome work!


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## Ulma Doctor

very nice work, it work great!


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## Martin W

Great job, works very well. Congratulations. I'm kind of sad to see it finished I always look on here to see what you have done to it next. I really enjoyed this thread.
Cheers
Martin


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## f350ca

Thanks Martin, I'll be happy to see it finished and my pile of logs reduced to something a little more usable. Weather permitting I'll be painting it tomorrow. Took the engine and a few pieces off today and degreased and pressure washed it.
Then have to track down some reasonably priced white oak to line the bunks. Sawed some elm last fall but as too often happens it turned into pretzels this summer.

Greg


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## Martin W

Too bad ash isn't more weatherable to use on the bunk . There is tons to saw up.


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## rwm

That is great! So cool to see it in action!
What if you remove the last foot of the blade guard? You could also consider a 4 way splitter. That's what the larger units have. That should be easy to add.  
This would be really cool if you added sensing switches and the whole thing could run automatically but I guess that would add a whole other level of complexity.
All in all, amazing work!
Robert


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## f350ca

The Emerald Ash Bore hasn't hit here YET. I have an ash swamp behind the shop, guess it will soon be a field. Should be a year or two of firewood though.

Greg


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## f350ca

The guard is more of a chain catcher Robert. By Oregon's specs its running at 8000 fpm. Really want that bottom part in case it ever broke coming out of the log. 
If I automated it I might get fat and lazy, plus I'd make myself redundant.

Greg


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## rwm

Oh yes. I didn't consider the chain breaking. By all means leave it. Is there another work around? I guess you could advance the log 4" before tilting the table?
R


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## f350ca

Painted it yesterday, was the worst thing I've ever painted, (as expected).  Put it up on the car hoist and sprayed a gallon of paint on the underside and internal parts. At that point I had 1/2 a gallon on me. Then moved it outside and opened up the log deck. Used almost the second gallon.
The supplier was to have the paint here Tuesday, missed the truck, got the paint to me Wednesday but forgot the catalyst. Got that at 11:30 yesterday and finished at eight o'clock last night.




Greg


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## uncle harry

f350ca said:


> Painted it yesterday, was the worst thing I've ever painted, (as expected).  Put it up on the car hoist and sprayed a gallon of paint on the underside and internal parts. At that point I had 1/2 a gallon on me. Then moved it outside and opened up the log deck. Used almost the second gallon.
> The supplier was to have the paint here Tuesday, missed the truck, got the paint to me Wednesday but forgot the catalyst. Got that at 11:30 yesterday and finished at eight o'clock last night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> f350ca said:
> 
> 
> 
> Painted it yesterday, was the worst thing I've ever painted, (as expected).  Put it up on the car hoist and sprayed a gallon of paint on the underside and internal parts. At that point I had 1/2 a gallon on me. Then moved it outside and opened up the log deck. Used almost the second gallon.
> The supplier was to have the paint here Tuesday, missed the truck, got the paint to me Wednesday but forgot the catalyst. Got that at 11:30 yesterday and finished at eight o'clock last night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greg
Click to expand...


I finally was able to download your photo. I like the color; it'll go well with "bark brown" and "sawdust cream".   I totally appreciate your struggles in painting her.


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## JimDawson

Here's the photo  Looking good!


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## brino

uncle harry said:


> I like the color; it'll go well with "bark brown" and "sawdust cream".



I don't know.....dark green? 
You might lose it in the woods! 

Just kidding of course Greg. I often wish I had the sticktoitiveness to actually disassemble and paint then reassemble things. Usually for me it's just get it working and use it.
You should get many years use of that machine.

-brino


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## f350ca

Thanks Jim, sometimes the photos show and sometimes they don't, but if I wait they sometimes show up latter.
I like to totally dismantle before painting but this would have been a nightmare. Not to mention where I'd spread and hang all the parts to paint.
Then there's some projects like the backhoe that just never did get painted.
Greg


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## f350ca

Just bolted down some Elm planks for the log chute.
Still need to change the ratio on the feed chain drive and its done.



Greg


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## uncle harry

f350ca said:


> Just bolted down some Elm planks for the log chute.
> Still need to change the ratio on the feed chain drive and its done.
> 
> 
> 
> Greg



Time to start wearin' off some of that new paint !


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## rwm

Looking great! They will never see it from the air during a bombing run.
Robert


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## valleyboy101

Hi Greg
The firewood proceessor sure turned out great, and you don't even have to bend over to operate it.  The saw certainly makes a quick cut. 
Michael


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## f350ca

Monday was Beta testing day. Cut about a cord and had a failure on the saw actuator. The arm that the cylinder pushes to swing the bar failed. I thought the cylinder was bottoming out at the top of the stroke but apparently the arm was hitting the frame.




The parts supplier was close and we came up with rev A, the failed part was 1/2 plate, made a new ring pout of 3/4 and added a 1/2 inch to the wall. Then welded the old arm on.




Made the ring from my stock of mystery metal, might have been wear plate, what a bugger to drill.

Greg


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## f350ca

Bit of an update. 
I've cut and stacked about 8 face cord with 5 hours showing on the hour meter. Not super fast but minimal labour involved aside from stacking it.
Handling a load of logs with the chainsaw and tractor mounted splitter would take me 5 hard days work. With the processor probably 2 relatively easy days to cut and stack it.

Thanks for watching

Greg


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## Silverbullet

Do the trees tremble when they see you coming with the wood monster in tow. 
Great to see things work after all the work you put into building it .


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## Cobra

Great job on a great project.
Here's another version.




__ https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=2061836617375560


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## f350ca

That one looks pretty slick.

Greg


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