# Just bought a 10F28



## 56FordGuy (Feb 13, 2013)

I bought this lathe yesterday, got it mounted back on the stand and moved into my shop today. Still a bit to do before I can use it, I need to move it into a permanent spot, level it and wire an outlet. It came with a 3 and 4 jaw chuck, faceplate, drill for the tailstock, change gears, and a box full of tooling. There are two long, threaded rods that look like feed screws, but are shorter than the one on the lathe. Not sure what those are for.

I found the model 10F28 on the inside of the door covering the gears. I can't locate a data tag anywhere on the machine. Is there any way to determine the age of this thing? Not that it matters, I'm just curious. It has oil cups for the bearings in the head. Should there be a felt piece inside the oil cups, or does the oil just run straight down into the bearings?

Thanks for any help. I'm looking forward to learning on this thing.


----------



## psychodelicdan (Feb 13, 2013)

I only got the very top of the picture but it looks like my craftsman atlas going by the cover and color


Master of unfinished projects


----------



## wa5cab (Feb 13, 2013)

56fordguy?,

If you can't find a nameplate there, you can probably spot the screw holes where it once was.  10" model numbers for the F series were usually one or two letters and two digits.  The letters could be H or V for horizontal or vertical countershaft (yours is horizontal) sometimes preceded by T for Timken (meaning a roller bearing instead of babbit bearing headstock), or QC meaning that it had a quick change gear box (yours does not).  Following the letter(s) would be 36, 42, 48 or 54, the bed length in inches, which correspond to 18, 24, 30 or 36" between centers.  For example, TH-54 or QC-42.  The earlier 10D as nearly as I can tell used a 4-digit number, for example 1042.  At least in the catalogs.  Most nameplates that I've seen photographs of have a hyphen between the letter(s) and the digits.  Which isn't shown that way in the catalogs.

The only way to date the machine short of having the original paperwork, and only if it is a Timken headstock, is to remove the spindle and check the dates engraved into the bearings.  You can easily determine whether it has roller (Timken) or babbit bearings by looking at the headstock on either side of the bearing oil cups (which should have a felt plug inside).  if you see two bolt heads and s split line where the bearing cap separates from the headstock, it's babbit.  If it is smooth (and there is a sheet meter cover where the spindle sticks out of the headstock) it's Timken.  Check also whether the diameter of the leadscrew is 5/8" or 3/4".  The latter is later.  My current best guess is from 1939 on, which is also about when the power cross feed appeared.  Production of the 10" probably ceased around 1957 (my current guess).  The angle and resolution of the photo doesn't show whether your machine had power cross feed or not.  If it does, there will be a steel knob below the cross feed crank and shaft.

If the two long threades rods look like shorter versions of the lead screw on the side of the lathe, they are lead screws for shorter bed machines.  Otherwise, I couldn't guess.

Robert D.


----------



## wa5cab (Feb 13, 2013)

dan,

No, it's a 10" because it has large feet (so not a 9") and a FWD-REV gear box on the left end of the lead screw. Your Craftsman (if made by Atlas) will be a 12" or 6" with tumbler type FWD-REV lever up on the left end of the headstock.

See new thread "psychodelicdan's Craftsman 12 in.".

Robert D.


----------



## VSAncona (Feb 14, 2013)

It's hard to make out from the photo, but it looks like yours is a babbitt bearing model. (I think I can just make out one of the bearing caps.) And the bed looks like either a 48" or 54". With the horizontal countershaft, that would make your lathe a model H-48 or H-54, depending on the bed length.

I also noticed the base that it's sitting on. Those cast iron legs are actually from a Delta wood lathe, but they sure go well with the lines of the Atlas lathe.

I hope you enjoy your new acquisition.


----------



## 56FordGuy (Feb 14, 2013)

I really appreciate the information. It is a babbit bearing model, and I'll check the lead screw size. 

Is that the power cross feed knob in this photo?


----------



## wa5cab (Feb 14, 2013)

Yes, the power cross feed knob is clearly visible in your most recent photo.  To engage, you pull it out smartly.

Robert D.


----------



## 56FordGuy (Feb 17, 2013)

A friend with machining experience came out yesterday, we got the lathe moved into position, leveled and anchored. It runs well, but there's some significant play in the half nut for the power feed. I found replacement parts online, but I want to disassemble it before I order anything. Most of the small issues with the lathe so far have been loose bolts, lack of lubrication, or just the build up of gunk. It may just be that there are some bolts loose that hold the half nut in place. 

The two shorter lead screws (partially visible in the second photo) are for a different lathe. Not only are they too short for this one, but they lack the slot in the side. 

What do I need to look for as I acquire tooling for this machine? I want to get a live center, and a quick change tool post. I think the tailstock is an MT2 taper, but want to make sure before I order anything. 

Thanks!


----------



## pdentrem (Feb 17, 2013)

The play in the half nuts will likely be difficult to remove, reduce yes but never gone. Clausings is the source for your NOS parts and auction sites for parts that are not available from Clausings.

As for tooling, HSS tool bits are best for finish but you do have to sharpen them vs carbide which are tougher but brittle and not user sharpenable without special tools. Look for a AXA Phase II or clone tool post and tool holders. They are sized for 1/2" tools. I switched to wedge from piston type but either one is OK. I switch because my original piston type was a poor quality and the tools would rock on first contact with the metal. For a center get 2, one dead center, either plain or carbide tipped and a good live/rotating center. The tail stock has a #2 MT socket.
Pierre


----------



## pdentrem (Feb 17, 2013)

Robert
Have you seen any Atlas/Craftsman lathe with the two piece carriage, ie apron held by the two bolts, that did not have power crossfeed? I have not as of yet. Just curious.
Pierre


----------



## Dranreb (Feb 17, 2013)

56FordGuy said:


> It has oil cups for the bearings in the head. Should there be a felt piece inside the oil cups, or does the oil just run straight down into the bearings?



Both of mine had no felts, doesn't seem right, I have not found an answer to your question either, I just keep squirting oil in which is a bit wasteful...

Nice looking lathe you have there, you'll enjoy getting to know it's foibles 

Bernard


----------



## wa5cab (Feb 18, 2013)

Bernard,

All of the common Atlas 9", 10" and 12" lathes use two 9-204 Oil Cups, with felt plugs.  You can get the plugs pre-cut from Clausing.  For about the same price, you can probably buy a 6" x 6" sheet of 1/2" thick felt but you will have to make a plug cutter to make the plugs.  And burn gas to go get the felt.  I used the term "common" because Atlas probably made the 12" lathes that Sears advertised in the late 30's as wood lathes convertable to metal working lathes.  But I have never seen any of them nor any information on them outside of the catalogs and don't know what their model numbers are.

Pierre,

No.  I just did a parts list comparison of the 10" and 12" pre-war "common" models, and only the 101.07403 and the 3/4" lead screw 10F have two-piece 10F carriages.

56fordguy,

Believe it or not, the cheapest place I've seen to buy new half nuts is from Clausing.  This of course flies in the face of 70 years general experience with factory versus aftermarket parts in general.  

Robert D.


----------

