# Wiring help on Dayton gear reduction motor.



## ridgeway (Aug 20, 2014)

I have this Dayton gear reduction motor I want to wire for 110v.  I pictured the wiring diagram and the electrical box that is attached to the motor.  

According to the diagram, do I simply wire nut the white, red and purple to the common and the other three to the hot power wire?  Seems like an awful lot of wires just to wire nut all together?  I will probably use an old computer power cable for power.  The ground lead, I can handle, lol.

I also want to wire in a two prong toggle switch that is rated for 110v.  Do I simply break the hot lead with the switch?  

As you can tell, I'm no electrician, lol.


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## JimDawson (Aug 20, 2014)

It sounds like you have it.  Just make sure the switch is rated for the at least the motor current (amps)


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## ridgeway (Aug 20, 2014)

Thanks Jim.  I got it wired up and worked fine.  The amp draw is 0.62 according the the specs.  The toggle switch I had here is rated at 4 amp and seemed pretty cheap when I operated it.  Went to Radio Shack and got one there, much nicer quality.  Just need to source a strain relief fitting and get my power cord situated.  

After that, I need to make a case holder driver and I will be set.  

BTW, this motor is a case turner for my rifle cases so I can neck turn and clean.   Sure will beat using a drill after I get it all finished.


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## JimDawson (Aug 20, 2014)

My pleasure.  Please post some pictures of your project.


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## ridgeway (Aug 20, 2014)

This is what I have so far...just need to make the arbor for the shell holder.


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## rdhem2 (Aug 21, 2014)

You are on the right track with your project.  Please also watch what wire you use for line voltage wiring.  Most computer type wire is not rated for line voltage and insulation breakdown comes with many nasty sneaky suprises included.  Type SJ cord is cheap and tailor made for projects like this, also of a standard diameter to fit readily available termination fittings.  Nothing a $5 cord pigtail won't handle.

Love your project as I have been down this road many times before.  What rpm are you getting for the final output?  How does your shellholder attach to the drive shaft?  I notice the WILSON box on your bench.  Are you a benchrester?  I do what you are doing with a battery operated drill or a Walker Turner radial arm drill press I have fitted a vari drive to.  Coupled with a Forester vertical case holder and various RCBS 3 in 1 trimer/cutters and other Wilson trimmers makes the set up pretty sweet, fast and accurate.  Nothing more boring than trimming a thousand round batch of brass.

Ever been to Wilson's shop up in Cashmeire WA?  Only about 70 miles from here, really great people and nice shop.  They still run a small portion of the shop you can see from the sales counter from a old overhead shaft drive.  Still turn out quality work on 100+ year old machines.  First class outfit.  Years ago I got to meet grandpa Wilson who started the business and was a World Class Rifle Shooter back in the 30's and 40's. He shot with Harland Eaton, Bob Love, and Phil Salzman.  All local shooters making up the local team that went back to Perry for years.  Loved to hear his stories as he hobbled around the shop.  I was honored to meet him and shake his hand.  They make their money from machining parts for Boeing Aircraft and run the reloading gear as a sideline service for shooters.  That is why their first class product is so cheap for what you get.  Great folks, can't say enough!     )


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## ridgeway (Aug 21, 2014)

Russ...pretty interesting shop.  Unfortunately, I've never been there...i'm on the east coast.

The final drive RPM is 181.  The shell holder is threaded inside for 7/8-32.  I will make the threaded arbor to accept the shell holder and use set screws to secure it to the 5/15" shaft.  This will primarily be used to neck turn 6mm BR cases to fireform Dasher cases. 

I do shoot shoot benchrest...1000 yard BR.  I'm pretty deep into it and it gets a lot of attention.  

The Wilson box is a 6mm seater blank...when i get around to it, I will make a seater die.  

Case trimming, I don't really do volume stuff.  When I do trim, I use a Wilson trimmer.  I pretty much shoot one caliber, which is a 6mm Dasher.  I don't hunt much if any anymore...so my hunting stuff gets very little attention.  Pistol stuff, I have a Dillon 550 for that.  Case attention is pretty nill for pistol stuff.  Shotgun stuff, got a MEC to load target stuff.  I'll shoot trap or 5 stand when 1000 yard comps are over.


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## ridgeway (Aug 21, 2014)

Got the arbor made.  I made a large pinch collar to hold the arbor while I tighten the shell holder.  The motor spins pretty easy and could not get the case tight enough without it.  I may chuck the collar up in my indexer and mill some flutes around the circumference for grip.  It's pretty smooth right now.  Just need to finalize the wiring yet.  The strain grommet that came was way too large to fit the power cord I have.  I may need to take a trip to Home Depot or somewhere to find one.

Overall, turned out pretty darn nice and should work like a charm.


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## middle.road (Aug 21, 2014)

ridgeway said:


> I have this Dayton gear reduction motor I want to wire for 110v.  I pictured the wiring diagram and the electrical box that is attached to the motor.



Suggestion: do yourself a favor and crack the case on the gears and verify that they are lubed properly. (if possible) Years I go I designed some simple 
assembly fixtures using almost the same type of gear motor from grainger. In a week - out of six, four of them failed, autopsy showed poor lube in the housing
on the gears.


_Dan


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## ridgeway (Aug 21, 2014)

Will do Dan...


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