# Enco 110-0820 In need of TLC



## Ajroberts2020 (Jan 11, 2020)

Hello all fist post, hopefully many more to come.

I have been sitting on a used (broken) Enco 110-0820, with base, that my friend couldn't afford to fix at the time and I picked it up for free. I have all the parts that I know are broken (I bought them from Enco almost 7 years ago). After moving 1/2 way across the US. I now have a little time and a tiny amount of money to try and repair this thing.

I have found the manual enco-110-0820.pdf (this link is just one of the same document I have found everywhere)

Here are my questions along with pictures.

1, What bolts are used to mount the lathe to the base?

2, I got grease for the ways, and the lubrication guide in the manual shows several places to Grease/Oil, but what lubricants are these? I've read that you shouldn't use Automotive Oil.

3, I have used steel wool and automotive oil to remove most of the rust. Is there something better to use to keep it from rusting again? I was planning on using paste wax like I use on my woodworking machines.

4. Does anyone have a better description of how to correctly wire this thing? I would like the ground to be connected if possible.

Once I get it running. I plan on learning to cut threads (I hear the ladies love to hear this from guys). I won't ask questions about this till I get the thing working.


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## Silverbullet (Jan 11, 2020)

Way oil for the lathe , no grease . A tacky gear oil on the exposed gears and oil in the gits oilers . Don't think it needs special mounting bolts from bed to cabinet. Yes the lathe should be ground , is it three phase or straight 110 - 220 volt single phase. Either way add a ground if non supplied on the machine. Wax works but lanolin n mineral spirits works for rust . Oily rags do to just don't pile them up .  Get a copy of Manuel or comparative model to find all oil sites n lube point.  Good luck with her .


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## middle.road (Jan 11, 2020)

To save some $$$, just grab some ISO46 or ISO68 hydraulic oil to use on the ways, from Tractor Supply or Rural King, etc.
It's not a spanking new machine and ISOxx would be fine.
Hydraulic oil is non-detergent and that is what you want on a machine tool.
Stay away from vehicle motor oils and lubes.
No grease, it attracts swarf and chips and that causes problems.

Going to need to see some picts of that busted cross-slide and perhaps the spares you purchased if you can.
Looks to be in pretty good shape over all.


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## Ajroberts2020 (Jan 12, 2020)

Thank you both for information. I found this Booklet on Lathes and have been reading it tonight. I do know lots of this stuff, just blowing off 30 years of dust. The FAQ section asks one of the same question I did, and yet doesn't really answer it.

Here is the Link to the Manual in Engrish that I have found all over the place. Lathe Manual

*Quoting the 1st linked document "*Lathe Mounting What size bolts should be used for mounting my lathe to my workbench surface. 12mm Diameter x whatever length is necessary to go through your surface. Washers and locking type nuts are recommended. Tighten the headstock side only (not excessively) and just snug the tailstock side so as not to warp the bed and twist the ways*"*

It does seem to be 12mm of some kind. I tried 12mm-1.25, 12mm-1.5 and 12mm-1.75 bolts. The 12mm-1.5 bolts seem to go in the best but still seem to bind up in less than 3 turns.

It's a single phase machine, I am going to replace the wiring to the condenser with a 4-wire hookup and ground the ground to the frame. I'm a little on the paranoid side.

Related to the Lubrication question.... How much (hydraulic) oil do I put in these little cups?


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## middle.road (Jan 12, 2020)

Those oil caps might just be 'straight-through' drippers where they don't really fill up, they just drip oil onto the change gears.
I don't see any type of wicking in the parts diagrams.

Can the threaded holes be chased with a m12x1.5 tap?


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## Ajroberts2020 (Jan 14, 2020)

When I read this, I was on my way to buy metric Taps, got a whole set for $19 at Harbor Freight... Chasing the threads worked.

I picked up some kerosene to use as a cleaning agent and some ISO68 hydraulic Oil too.

I wired the a 220V 3 wire outlet to a 20 AMP Breaker in my sub-panel. After looking into the electronics on the machine, it looks like there are 2 hots and a ground (I almost wired the outlet for a neutral instead of a ground). I have attached some pictures and the manual page, if anyone knows if this is wired wrong. The breaker blows every time, after about 3 to 10 seconds (and the machine is really noisy).

Thanks again for all the help.


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## markba633csi (Jan 14, 2020)

Sounds like it's actually wired for 120v- did it come with a 240v plug?  
Assuming the switch wiring is correct (which is not certain) I would try it on 120 volts first.  
Tip: mark the switch wire locations with masking tape labels so you'll have a record of how it was originally wired, in case you have to dig into the rat's nest


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## RobertB (Jan 14, 2020)

I would take the cover off of the motor terminal box and see if there is a connection diagram in there showing 120 vs 240 wiring connections to confirm which way it is wired.


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## markba633csi (Jan 14, 2020)

Not sure I follow you when you said "replace the wiring to the condenser with 4-wire hookup"  
I assume you are referring to the motor start capacitor?  
Mark


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## Ajroberts2020 (Jan 14, 2020)

markba633csi said:


> Not sure I follow you when you said "replace the wiring to the condenser with 4-wire hookup"
> I assume you are referring to the motor start capacitor?
> Mark



Yes, I missed that, when I first looked at this, it looked like the machine needed a Common wire, But I have since realized it doesn't. The 3 Wire solution will work just fine. 

I'm getting closer, just taking more parts off than I wanted to. I made the assumption that the way I got it was correctly wired for 220v as the plug end was obviously 220v.


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## RobertB (Jan 14, 2020)

Those jumpers look (at least for the majority of dual voltage motors) like they are set for 120v. Usually the primary windings are U1-U2 and V1-V2. Those jumpers are paralleling those windings. You could take the jumpers off and take resistance measurements to confirm they are the winding terminals. The wiring diagram for 110v also shows U1 to V1 and U2 to V2 always connected with either rotation direction.


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## Ajroberts2020 (Jan 17, 2020)

Right now, I took one of the hots and made it a neutral just to test. (I didn't have any 110v plugs at the time). I've been told that it might be dangerous if I chose the wrong hot to make a neutral. Also, if I want the motor to work cooler, I should run it at 220v, so any suggestion on how I change the motor to be correct for 220v? 

Even if I just leave it the way it is I need to test to see if it works. I am going to make a chuck key for the 3-jaw vise tomorrow morning so that I can put it on and see how accurate this thing is. If I can cut any kind of thread I will keep it and probably eventually upgrade it.


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## RobertB (Jan 17, 2020)

1. As you have found, never assume that anything wired by someone else is wired correctly. Just because someone used a 220v plug on the cord doesn't mean he wired his outlet 220v. He may have just wanted a twist lock plug used what he had available.

2. On a 3/4 hp motor switching to 220v will make virtually no difference in the motors operating temperature.
More information is needed before we can conclusively give an answer on how to switch it to 220v, the motor winding terminals would need to be confirmed as well as the reversing switch internal connection pattern. Again, not really anything to be gained by switching anyway.

3. On a machine that can be also be wired 220v, when wired for 110v it does not matter which line is hot or neutral.


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## markba633csi (Jan 17, 2020)

At 3/4 HP it's a toss up as to power.  1 HP or more is best on 240v, mainly to avoid overheating the supply lines in your house/garage and/or tripping a breaker. There might be a slight temp reduction of the motor itself, only as a result of less voltage drop in the supply lines therefore more voltage available at the motor making it operate slightly more efficiently.  The switch may last longer with less current also.
Also, you don't "make a neutral" from a hot.  If you mean that you are deriving 120v from the 240 input plug/cord then you take either of the two incoming hot leads and the neutral giving 120v between them, plus the ground to the chassis making a 3-wire connection.
It shouldn't matter which of the two hot leads you choose, unless there is something unusual about the way your house breakers are configured (for example, a 240 volt outlet where only one of the two hots is run through a breaker and the other one not, or breakers of two different ratings for the two hots)
-mark


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