# stuck chuck



## porthos (Nov 27, 2017)

i have a 10-l with a bison 3 jaw that i bought new. had it off maybe 10 times. usually with not much effort. not this time!!!!!!!!! what i thought would make it easy, is the use of a impact wrench that i borrowed from a friend. no go!! why the impact wrench dosen't work is that my compressor is probably too small.  what i need to do is lock the spindle from moving slightly. how do i do that?? i won't engage any gears; because as tight as this is, i probably would lose some gear teeth. perhaps with the spindle locked; i can use a large breaker bar on the .875 hex stock that is in the chuck for use with the impact gun.  can't believe that the chuck is this stuck. i have a small cheap strap wrench that helps a little; but spindle still slips. going to the hdw. store later to look for a heavy strap wrench. if they have none; will order online. oh, and before anyone asks, yes i am turning in the right direction (left).


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## Dave Paine (Nov 27, 2017)

I had difficulty getting my chuck off my Southbend Heavy 10.   Like you mentioned, I had read about not using back gear.   I have a lot of wood working clamps.   I was able to use a clamp to grip on one of the headstock pulleys with the clamp bar to rest against the headstock casting.   It slipped a little but I was able to get the chuck off.   I had a bar mounted across the face between the chuck jaws for leverage.

Good luck.  I know the frustration.


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## RJSakowski (Nov 27, 2017)

Plumbers use internal pipe wrenches to remove close nipples from fittings.  One used at the back end of the spindle should provide you with enough torque to break the chuck loose.https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Internal-Pipe-Wrench-Set-HDX150/204218626


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## RJSakowski (Nov 27, 2017)

For larger sizes: https://www.mcmaster.com/#internal-pipe-wrenches/=1afstwm
Remember that the sizes given are for pipe sizes. 3/4" pipe = .824" i.d., 1" pipe = 1.049" i.d., 1-1/4" pipe =1.380" i.d., 1-1/2" = 1.610" i.d.


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## Dave Paine (Nov 27, 2017)

Thanks for the internal pipe wrench suggestion.   I will get a set to have on-hand.   I have on occasion wanted to remove chromed pipe without damaging the chrome.


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## RandyWilson (Nov 27, 2017)

The impact is not a good idea. Since you already have the hex stock, use the lathes inertia. With a breaker bar, start turning the lathe backwards, then snatch it forward.


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## woodchucker (Nov 27, 2017)

RandyWilson said:


> The impact is not a good idea. Since you already have the hex stock, use the lathes inertia. With a breaker bar, start turning the lathe backwards, then snatch it forward.


NOOOO, that is sure to break a gear.


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## RJSakowski (Nov 27, 2017)

The problem with using inertia, or an impact wrench, for that matter, is that most of the mass is in the chuck. The spindle itself has very little mass and because if its small diameter, its moment of inertia is even less important.


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## tq60 (Nov 27, 2017)

Simple steps.

Bake sure NOT in back gear.

Gear train off.

Get a chunk if 2 X 4 2 ft long.

The biggest hammer you can find and a helper.

Chuck needs to have something in it and snug and magic will happen. 

Observe the flat in the hole for chuck wrench as it needs to be parallel to ways

Now rotate chuck to where the chuck wrench is straight out in front.

Place the chuck wrench into the hole.

Have the helper hold the 2 X 4 across the chuck key snug to the chuck.

Smack it with the hammer GENTLY.

small hammer you need speed nut large hammer has more energy so gentle smack usually will do it.

Rotate and repeat with 1 or 2 smacks on each hole and it should come loose.

Last time you installed it you may not have seated it and it seated while using.

We usually give the last 1/4 turn a rapid spin and that seats it and removal not to bad.


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## Technical Ted (Nov 27, 2017)

Here's a video from our YouTube friend Mr. Pete on removing a stuck chuck.






Good luck,
Ted


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## RandyWilson (Nov 27, 2017)

At least on my 14 1/2, there is still a considerable amount of inertia in the motor, belt cones and geartrain.


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## woodchucker (Nov 27, 2017)

tq60 said:


> Simple steps.
> 
> Bake sure NOT in back gear.
> 
> ...



Nooooo. The hex he had in the jaws was better than this recommendation. The hex in the jaws is a natural action for the chuck, banging on it like you are suggesting is a good way to break the casting, or the pinion gear which has a journal that rides in the casting.  Either could break.


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## Tozguy (Nov 27, 2017)

Seems to me that if the jaws are removed and a close fitting steel bar is slipped into one of the vacated jaw slots that we could smack or torque on that more safely than by wrenching on the jaws or by smacking the chuck key.
My first choice for holding the spindle would be a heavy duty strap wrench, the very best one I could find at any price.


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## porthos (Nov 27, 2017)

well, just ordered a $65.00 strap wrench. that means that i'll probably get it off before the wrench arrives. thats ok it'll be worth it


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## Bob Korves (Nov 27, 2017)

This is probably not the time to say it, but I am sure glad my lathe has a D1-4 camlock spindle.  OHOH, I do have a dividing head with a 1-3/4"-8 spindle, and I played hell getting the chuck off after I bought the used dividing head.  So I do feel your pain...


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## Tony Pisano (Nov 27, 2017)

woodchucker said:


> NOOOO, that is sure to break a gear.


We used this method often in the shop, and it often works. You aren't putting the machine in back gears, the spindle is free turning so there is no chance of damaging anything.


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## tq60 (Nov 27, 2017)

woodchucker said:


> Nooooo. The hex he had in the jaws was better than this recommendation. The hex in the jaws is a natural action for the chuck, banging on it like you are suggesting is a good way to break the casting, or the pinion gear which has a journal that rides in the casting.  Either could break.


Having the jaws closed on something makes the chuck a solid piece.

This method is not mine as we read it someplace.

The impact of the hammer is against the side of the scroll spindle which should be against the side of its hole.

a different version was to back out the jaws to where one was protruding outside of the chuck and either with brass hammer or large mallet smack it there but we prefer using the chuck key.

The force is then in the proper place and in the proper direction to jar it loose.

And the amount of applied force is not that much compared to operation of the machine.

The hex in the chuck is in the center where leverage is not good resulting in much more force to be applied to get it busted loose.


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## mikey (Nov 28, 2017)

Would two strap wrenches work? One on the belt positions, one big one on the chuck ...


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## woodchucker (Nov 28, 2017)

Tony Pisano said:


> We used this method often in the shop, and it often works. You aren't putting the machine in back gears, the spindle is free turning so there is no chance of damaging anything.


You assume he does not have a gear head.


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## Tony Pisano (Nov 28, 2017)

woodchucker said:


> You assume he does not have a gear head.


No assumptions. My original comment was on freeing the chuck with out putting in back gears, and without pounding on anything.  Either with the chuck wrench, or a pc of stock between jaws, and  by hand a quick clockwise motion and quick reversal in direction, the chuck would often come off


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## rock_breaker (Dec 4, 2017)

I don't like to use a lot of force in these occasions but I use penetrating oil and light tapping with a hammer. Takes a long time on occasion but it will work.


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