# Drill Bit Sharpening Jig Plans



## Elmo

Does anyone know where I can find plans or a book for building a drill sharpening jig? I did some searching on this site but didn't find anything. I must not be using the right terms.
  Elmo


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## Dan_S

Are you talking about for use with a bench grinder?


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## Elmo

Yes that is what I am looking for. Btw I was stationed ar Chanute AFB in 1969 for tech school. Electronic tech for Hound Dog missles.
 Elmo


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## Dan_S

Check out John's page, he has a lot of info on the subject.
http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/DrillSharp.html


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## middle.road

Dan_S said:


> Check out John's page, he has a lot of info on the subject.
> http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/DrillSharp.html


Wow, that is one serious write-up about drill sharpening.
Thanks for sharing it.


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## Andre

Although it's not homemade, those cheap pot metal jigs work pretty well with a little bit of practice.


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## kd4gij

I like my drill doctor. It works pretty good and isn't to pricy.


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## brino

I just spent a half an hour looking for an article I had read recently about drill bit sharpening. I did not find it! 

Anyway, from my (known faulty) memory, they compared a Drill Doctor against the older "side of the grinding wheel" type like this:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32965&cat=1,43072,43086

The reviewer started out believing the Drill Doctor would do a better job, but then by the end of the review was leaning toward the grinding guide.

I have never used either one of those so cannot add my voice.

I too would be interested in seeing plans.......but there is no way I could make one for less than the link above......and I am sure they could be had cheaper...that was just a vendor that I knew carried it.

-brino


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## Dan_S

Hemingway has a kit available.
http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/The_Potts_Drill_Grinding_Jig.html


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## Elmo

Thanks for the link, that jig looks interesting. I probably will get one to try.
Grizzely sells one that looks to be the same.
Elmo


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## Terrywerm

If you are interested in building one from scratch, Harold Hall describes a sharpening setup in his book "Tool and Cutter Sharpening" which is part of the Workshop Practice Series. The book includes plans for the components and is available for about $20 online, maybe less if you search a little. I have not built or tried his setup, but I have looked at the book in some detail and it looks like a nice system, just about perfect for a hobby machinist such as ourselves.


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## Bill Gruby

There is one in this in, "Milling For Home Machinists' also by Harold Hall. I have an extra copy if you would like it Elmo?

"Billy G"


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## Elmo

Ye


Bill Gruby said:


> There is one in this in, "Milling For Home Machinists' also by Harold Hall. I have an extra copy if you would like it Elmo?
> 
> "Billy G"




Yes I would like to have it. Let me know.
  Elmo


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## joshua43214

brino said:


> I just spent a half an hour looking for an article I had read recently about drill bit sharpening. I did not find it!
> 
> Anyway, from my (known faulty) memory, they compared a Drill Doctor against the older "side of the grinding wheel" type like this:
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32965&cat=1,43072,43086
> 
> The reviewer started out believing the Drill Doctor would do a better job, but then by the end of the review was leaning toward the grinding guide.
> 
> I have never used either one of those so cannot add my voice.
> 
> I too would be interested in seeing plans.......but there is no way I could make one for less than the link above......and I am sure they could be had cheaper...that was just a vendor that I knew carried it.
> 
> -brino



You could not find it because it is a video, unless he has a blog page as well.




Worth the time to watch, he gives it a fair shake and gets an unexpected result.

In short, the Drill Doctor is not especially good. I know I can free hand grind drills much better than a Drill Doctor and I suck and grinding drills.
My only issue with grinding jigs is they use the side of the wheel. I would invest in one of those mini bench grinders with a cup wheel from Horror Fright to go with it. Just attach it all to a board and stow it under the bench when not in use. You might have to get new wheels, but the Chinese diamond wheels are surprisingly good and cost almost nothing - I would go that route for cheap wheels rather than Chinese silicon carbide. A Norton wheel will prolly cost as much as the grinder...

Best thing is really to just learn to freehand it. I can get mine razor sharp and all, they just do not make a perfectly even chip on both flutes.
Search for That lazy Machinist on YouTube, he does a an excellent tutorial on drill grinding.

-Josh


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## brino

joshua43214 said:


> You could not find it because it is a video, unless he has a blog page as well.



Thanks Josh!
That was indeed what I remember. I go thru so many magazines and websites on all this fun stuff I guess it starts to get confused.....but jeez I thought it was in print......I'm must be losing it......

My small bench grinder is used exclusively for drill bit sharpening. It has a simple v-groove in the rest to help maintain the proper point angle and works for a good range of drill-bit sizes. I typically use the outer circumference of the wheel for the cutting lip, but add the secondary facets on the side of the wheel.

One question, why don't you like using the side of the wheel? Is it because you cannot really dress it flat then use it without eventually wearing the wheel into a funny shape?

Thanks!
-brino

EDIT: forgot one thing...to get the two lips the same length I use my calipers (grind, check, grind, check). I don't care about the actual lengths, just that they are equal. Then when doing the secondary facets, again get them equal.


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## Doubleeboy

The video maker seemed to be a newbie at using a Drill Doctor.  After using one for years, I find its strength is the little bits like 5/32" to 5/16".   Anything larger than 5/16" is pretty easy to free hand with grinder with a bit of practice.  The Drill Doctor excels at the smaller bits in my opinion.

cheers
michael


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## Bill C.

joshua43214 said:


> You could not find it because it is a video, unless he has a blog page as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worth the time to watch, he gives it a fair shake and gets an unexpected result.
> 
> In short, the Drill Doctor is not especially good. I know I can free hand grind drills much better than a Drill Doctor and I suck and grinding drills.
> My only issue with grinding jigs is they use the side of the wheel. I would invest in one of those mini bench grinders with a cup wheel from Horror Fright to go with it. Just attach it all to a board and stow it under the bench when not in use. You might have to get new wheels, but the Chinese diamond wheels are surprisingly good and cost almost nothing - I would go that route for cheap wheels rather than Chinese silicon carbide. A Norton wheel will prolly cost as much as the grinder...
> 
> Best thing is really to just learn to freehand it. I can get mine razor sharp and all, they just do not make a perfectly even chip on both flutes.
> Search for That lazy Machinist on YouTube, he does a an excellent tutorial on drill grinding.
> 
> -Josh



I agree with you about the wheel.  That is the wrong type of wheel.  Need a thick cup or face wheel. Those wheels are designed for that type of grinding.


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## joshua43214

brino said:


> One question, why don't you like using the side of the wheel? Is it because you cannot really dress it flat then use it without eventually wearing the wheel into a funny shape?



Regular wheels are not intended to be used on the side. They have a bad habit of exploding when this is done. Trust me, an exploding grinding wheel has a really big pucker factor. You kind of stand there for a moment waiting, hoping you are not in shock and there is no pain. Then you have to go sit for a while, and reconsider your life choices.

Like most folks, I grind on the side of the wheel on occasion, but if I was going to set up a jig for it, I would use a cup wheel instead. Either way, I use an 8" grinder, and I rarely find the concave cut to be a problem with tool grinding. Drills are one of the cutters that will have the most problems with a hollow grind though, it will cause the drill to grab the work and pull it up the drill when you exit the cut, or pull the backlash out of the quill when starting the cut - this will be especially bad on soft material. Reducing the lead angle a bit will cause the tip to rub a bit behind the cutting edge and help reduce the tendency of the drill from wanting to screw itself into the material. You might try this if you experience grabbing on exit, or a small chatter when pecking - the chatter can be really bad because it contributes a great deal to the bit wandering.

Like I said, I kinda suck at grinding drills. They are always nice and sharp and look really good, but they rarely make a chips of even size from each cutting face. A well ground drill will make chips of even width and thickness.

-Josh


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## royesses

Doubleeboy said:


> The video maker seemed to be a newbie at using a Drill Doctor.  After using one for years, I find its strength is the little bits like 5/32" to 5/16".   Anything larger than 5/16" is pretty easy to free hand with grinder with a bit of practice.  The Drill Doctor excels at the smaller bits in my opinion.
> 
> cheers
> michael


I agree. The drill doctor like any consumer grade tool requires some learning to get the most out of. Setting the bit in the chuck is very critical and also how you turn the chuck requires a sort of rhythm. I've had the DD500SP tradesman(the tall green one) since 2003 and find it does an excellent job. If I don't get two equal swarfs it means I screwed up. I have used it to sharpen drill bits from 5/64" to 1/2'. Practice is the key. Before I used to hand grind all my bits, but as I got older my eyes and hand coordination became  less acute. The DD fixes my oldtimers disease. I still hand grind the larger drill bits, but I may pick up another general tools  grinding jig and try it out again. Just my opinion.
Roy


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## Smithdoor

I just use a 6" grinder and hand grind all my drill bits
I do have a new drill doctor still in the box with the VCR tape. My father In law gave to me.
I have found some shops will not hire any that can not hand sharpen drill bits.
It is not hard to teach  any to hand sharpen drill bits take about 10 min

Dave


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## samthedog

Doubleeboy said:


> The video maker seemed to be a newbie at using a Drill Doctor.  After using one for years, I find its strength is the little bits like 5/32" to 5/16".   Anything larger than 5/16" is pretty easy to free hand with grinder with a bit of practice.  The Drill Doctor excels at the smaller bits in my opinion.
> 
> cheers
> michael



I have had no luck with the Drill Doctor at all. I bought the 750x and have carefully followed the instructions with little success. The tolerances between the chuck and the body are too lose. Even with very careful use the results were hit and miss.

A useful looking grinder is the SRD type:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/SRD-TDR-DRILL-GRINDER-SHARPENER-DG-80M-/201453614895?nav=SEARCH

I can't see that the chuck would be hard to make and the cup wheels are readily available in CBN so they will have a decent service life. People who use these seem to be very happy with their performance, especially for smaller bits which other sharpening systems struggle with.

Paul.


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## planeflyer21

Smithdoor said:


> I just use a 6" grinder and hand grind all my drill bits
> I do have a new drill doctor still in the box with the VCR tape. My father In law gave to me.
> I have found some shops will not hire any that can not hand sharpen drill bits.
> It is not hard to teach  any to hand sharpen drill bits take about 10 min
> 
> Dave



I would agree with that.  Took our instructor at the college about 20 minutes to teach 11 of us out of a dozen students.  We were given 1/2"x4"long bits and told "Watch, just like this."

The one exception got his sharp but the bit was about 2 1/2" long afterwards.


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## kwoodhands

brino said:


> I just spent a half an hour looking for an article I had read recently about drill bit sharpening. I did not find it!
> 
> Anyway, from my (known faulty) memory, they compared a Drill Doctor against the older "side of the grinding wheel" type like this:
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32965&cat=1,43072,43086
> 
> The reviewer started out believing the Drill Doctor would do a better job, but then by the end of the review was leaning toward the grinding guide.
> 
> I have never used either one of those so cannot add my voice.
> 
> I too would be interested in seeing plans.......but there is no way I could make one for less than the link above......and I am sure they could be had cheaper...that was just a vendor that I knew carried it.
> 
> -brino



I started with the side grind type ,poor results.Not blaming the tool,maybe it was me. I then bought the 350 Drill Doctor which is the least expensive one.Been using it about 8 years,replaced the stone once.I screwed up a couple of drills while getting the hang of it when I first bought it.Sometimes I have to hand grind a bit more relief after initial grinding with the Drill Doctor.There is another type of jig that uses the front of the wheel,haven't used it but a friend has and switched to the Drill Doctor after trying mine.

mike


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## Hidyn

Dan_S said:


> Check out John's page, he has a lot of info on the subject.
> http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/DrillSharp.html



Thank you very much for posting this, this will keep me busy for a while!


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## P T Schram

I foolishly walked into my second or third semester Machine Tool Technology class in 1990 or 1991 and told the instructor that my main reason for attending that semester was to learn to grind drill bits and lathe bits.

Wrong thing to say. I spent the rest of the semester sharpening everyone's drill and lathe bits. I learned how to do it!

Now that said, if I'm "on", I'm "ON". If not, I end up with a lot of screw-machine length bits. I have one of the side-of-the-wheel jigs, a Drill Doctor (of which I sell many from the tool truck as I know how to sharpen  drill bita. I tuck a Drill Doctor under my arm and a pocketful of dull drill bits and teach guys to sharpen bits), and recently scored a Darex industrial production drill bit sharpener (when I met the fourth generation CEO of Darex and told him I had one, he was astounded that any individual would have one in their home shop).

My go-to sharpener is the side-of-the-wheel jig, then the big time Darex. The Drill Doctor is a good tool but I've moved beyond it now.


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## Billh50

I know the older Drill Doctor did not work well for me. But then it could have been me also. A friend did give me a newer model that I haven't tried yet. The older model seemed to have a very flimsy chuck to hold the drill. The fingers in the check seemed to go sideways if you tightened the chuck enough so the drill wiuld not slip back.


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## Mark_f

I have read many opinions on drill sharpening. The most and best info I ever read was from John at gadget builder.com. That being said and this is MY OPINION, after forty years of machining I find it is impossible to hand grind a drill and get it right. Many can do it and come close, but you can never hold the two sides exactly the same. I have used many drill grinders over the years. I throw the cheap cast one that uses the side of the wheel away. It will work but is total hit and miss. I have a really nice big commercial drill grinder but it takes an hour to set up and then you have to change settings for every size. A great machine but intended for grinding batches of drills the same size. I never do that so it just sits. Last year I built the grinder on gadgetbuilder.com and love it. It is easy to setup and use and works great. It makes as close to a perfect drill bit as I have seen  yet. I grind all new drill bits I get on it before I use them. I also feel four facet ground bits work a whole lot better than the conical grind.
THIS IS MY OPINION on drill grinding.


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## Billh50

I have the plans for that one. Just don't have the proper machines to make the thing. With my drill press miller it would take me too long a time to make. From all that I have read about that sharpener it does a perfect job every time.


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## Dan_S

mark_f said:


> I grind all new drill bits I get on it before I use them. I also feel four facet ground bits work a whole lot better than the conical grind.
> THIS IS MY OPINION on drill grinding.



Mark,

If you get the chance try out these bits, they are 135 degree 4 facet split point bits, you can get them from enco individually. They cut through everything like a hot knife through butter.
http://shop.triumphtwistdrill.com/Product/viewitem/?Style=T1HD


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## Mark_f

Dan_S said:


> Mark,
> 
> If you get the chance try out these bits, they are 135 degree 4 facet split point bits, you can get them from enco individually. They cut through everything like a hot knife through butter.
> http://shop.triumphtwistdrill.com/Product/viewitem/?Style=T1HD
> View attachment 114679



Those look great. This is how  grind my bits. Even new ones I find are off as much as .005" off center. I regrind them to 4 facets, right on center and they drill with a lot less effort, really close to on size and no walking.
Even inexpensive bits work good when properly ground.

I will order these when I get replacements.


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## Mark_f

Billh50 said:


> I have the plans for that one. Just don't have the proper machines to make the thing. With my drill press miller it would take me too long a time to make. From all that I have read about that sharpener it does a perfect job every time.



As soon as I catch up a few projects already started, I am going to build another one but a little larger that will accept the ER20 collets and also 5C collets so I can also do large drills.

 Actually there is not that much milling to building it. I had no mill when I made mine . I used my lathe and drill press. The small amount of milling was done on my lathe.


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## Billh50

I don't have the milling attachment for my mini-lathe. But maybe I will look the plans over again.


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## Mark_f

I was just  trying to remember because I know I did not have a mill when I built mine, and I don't think there really was much milling at all. I cut most of the parts with the saw and smooth them up with a file and square and polish them by rubbing them on sandpaper sitting on my granite bkock. Most of the work as I remember was turning, sawing, and drilling. I uses a file a lot for finish work. I can't remember anything I had to Mill on that grinder. That's not to say that there are a few operations a Mail would make it easier


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## Mark_f

I will be starting a new thread soon on this because I will be building another drill grinder that will use both ER 20 collets and 5C collets so to be able to sharpen drills up to 1" in diameter. I plan to use several features from other build variations of the drill grinder. I hope to start soon. I am still in the planning stage right now.


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## Elmo

mark_f said:


> I will be starting a new thread soon on this because I will be building another drill grinder that will use both ER 20 collets and 5C collets so to be able to sharpen drills up to 1" in diameter. I plan to use several features from other build variations of the drill grinder. I hope to start soon. I am still in the planning stage right now.


I will be following your new thread.
  Elmo


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## plus1hdcp

Elmo said:


> I will be following your new thread.
> Elmo



I too will be on the lookout for this thread


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## Dan_S

I understand how to grind a 4 facet drill, it's practically dummy proof, but how do you grind a split point? Are you essentially bringing the edge of the wheel right up to the center, but not passing over it?


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## Mark_f

Dan_S said:


> I understand how to grind a 4 facet drill, it's practically dummy proof, but how do you grind a split point? Are you essentially bringing the edge of the wheel right up to the center, but not passing over it?


Essentially yes. The split point is a little tricky. It takes some practice. It is not as easy as the shepenining. I am still plying with it and trying to make it more fool proof.


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## arvidj

mark_f said:


> I will be starting a new thread soon on this because I will be building another drill grinder that will use both ER 20 collets and 5C collets so to be able to sharpen drills up to 1" in diameter. I plan to use several features from other build variations of the drill grinder. I hope to start soon. I am still in the planning stage right now.



Add me to the list of followers for this project as soon as it becomes available.

I have both the old and the new versions of the 750 Drill Doctor. I put their very coarse stone in the old one and use it for bits that need serious clean up before I move them to the new version which has their finest stone. I've been very pleased with the results of this set up but am now ready to move up to the next level of drill sharpening.


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## Terrywerm

I have been eyeing Mr. Moran's 4/6 facet powered sharpener for some time also. I currently have an Atlas 2915 drill grinding jig that I have not yet used. It is very similar to the Delta unit that is shown on the gadgetbuilder site and is really only a fancier version of the cheap General jig. I obtained at a very low price on eBay a few years back, thinking that it might be a great jig, but I am not impressed. It is in brand new condition, which is nice, as none of the parts are missing. One of my previous employers had a Darex M5 drill sharpener, and I used it quite a bit. It did a fine job, but would be a bit expensive for my home shop, not to mention that they are no longer made or sold.

As for the powered sharpener that you built, Mark, I don't see a set of plans offered anywhere. So, either I missed something or else I am completely daft (a very real possibility ). I will certainly be following along on your new thread covering the construction of your new sharpener.


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## Billh50

I know it took about a month before I found both issues of the Home Shop Machinist that had the plans. But after emailing the publisher about finding one of the issues they located one for me.


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## Terrywerm

I see!  I am not a subscriber to HSM, though I have considered it a few times. I may just have to inquire about purchasing the appropriate back issues and trying a one year subscription while I am at it. I checked out their article index and found that the two issues are Jan-Feb 2012  and Mar-Apr 2012 (for those that might be interested).

ON EDIT:  Bad news fellas:  The Jan-Feb 2012 issue is no longer available on the back issues page. It must have been a popular issue!


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## Mark_f

terrywerm said:


> I have been eyeing Mr. Moran's 4/6 facet powered sharpener for some time also. I currently have an Atlas 2915 drill grinding jig that I have not yet used. It is very similar to the Delta unit that is shown on the gadgetbuilder site and is really only a fancier version of the cheap General jig. I obtained at a very low price on eBay a few years back, thinking that it might be a great jig, but I am not impressed. It is in brand new condition, which is nice, as none of the parts are missing. One of my previous employers had a Darex M5 drill sharpener, and I used it quite a bit. It did a fine job, but would be a bit expensive for my home shop, not to mention that they are no longer made or sold.
> 
> As for the powered sharpener that you built, Mark, I don't see a set of plans offered anywhere. So, either I missed something or else I am completely daft (a very real possibility ). I will certainly be following along on your new thread covering the construction of your new sharpener.



I figured about eighty percent of the sharpener out from the photos and info on John Moran's website. I kindly asked him for the little missing information and he sent it to me.
   As for this next one I am going to build, I am looking at a few options. I can follow John's plan fairly close with changes. Or, I can change a lot by using several features from the variations of the different builds that are pictured on his site. The latter is looking good, because a friend gave me an old Enco X Y table that is tight but needs cleaned up. The reason for using the table is I can make a grinder that is a combination of John's drill sharpener and a Cuttermaster clone T&C grinder. In other words, it will sharpen drills every bit as good as the drill grinder I built, but I can also put the air bearing on the table and sharpen end mills. If my fantasy works , this will replace the drill sharpener and the Bonnele grinder and be easier to build than either one of them were.  Ahhhh.... Time will tell. I am gathering materials right now.


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## Mark_f

terrywerm said:


> I see!  I am not a subscriber to HSM, though I have considered it a few times. I may just have to inquire about purchasing the appropriate back issues and trying a one year subscription while I am at it. I checked out their article index and found that the two issues are Jan-Feb 2012  and Mar-Apr 2012 (for those that might be interested).
> 
> ON EDIT:  Bad news fellas:  The Jan-Feb 2012 issue is no longer available on the back issues page. It must have been a popular issue!


Yes..... John' article on his drill sharpener made those two issues extremely sought after.
    I believe, but will probably check with Mr Moran, but I think my new version of a combination grinder will be different enough to completely document the build with prints and not infringe on his proprietary design.


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## Bill Gruby

Go to "larrytheprinter" on ebay.  If he can't get the back issues, no one can. Much cheaper than HSM.
 "Billy G"


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## rgray

Bill Gruby said:


> Go to "larrytheprinter" on ebay. If he can't get the back issues, no one can



Just checked that and didn't come up on ebay for me. I copy pasted so I know I didn't typo it. ???


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## Dan_S

mark_f said:


> Essentially yes. The split point is a little tricky. It takes some practice. It is not as easy as the shepenining. I am still plying with it and trying to make it more fool proof.



I might have to try my hand at designing a grinder, now that i understand how it's supposed to work.


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## Elmo

As for the powered sharpener that you built, Mark, I don't see a set of plans offered anywhere. So, either I missed something or else I am completely daft (a very real possibility ). I will certainly be following along on your new thread covering the construction of your new sharpener.

 Me either!
  Elmo


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## wawoodman

Remember, as soon as you invent a foolproof anything, they will come up with a better fool.

But I'll be watching the thread, too!


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## Bill Gruby

Sorry bout that, try this seller. larry-the-printer , my bad.

 "Billy G"


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## Billh50

terrywerm said:


> I see!  I am not a subscriber to HSM, though I have considered it a few times. I may just have to inquire about purchasing the appropriate back issues and trying a one year subscription while I am at it. I checked out their article index and found that the two issues are Jan-Feb 2012  and Mar-Apr 2012 (for those that might be interested).
> 
> ON EDIT:  Bad news fellas:  The Jan-Feb 2012 issue is no longer available on the back issues page. It must have been a popular issue!



That was why it took the publisher a month to locate the first issue for me. I was surprised they bothered for just 1 issue. I had given up when I got an email from her that she found one for me. Just charged the normal price for the issue also.


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## Getaway

I am also in the process of building the four facet drill grinder that Gadget Builder designed.  I got the plans from a back issue I got from HSM and xerox copy of the 1st article also obtained from HSM.  let me know if  you would like help obtaining a copy of these plans.


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## EmilioG

The Tormek drill sharpening accessory for their grinder looks pretty good and you can use it for other sharpening needs. Looks versatile although a bit pricey. Looks very well made. I think it's from Sweden.


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## Elmo

Getaway said:


> I am also in the process of building the four facet drill grinder that Gadget Builder designed.  I got the plans from a back issue I got from HSM and xerox copy of the 1st article also obtained from HSM.  let me know if  you would like help obtaining a copy of these plans.



That old be very helpful.
 Elmp


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## middle.road

I've got a large stack of HSM's from pre-2000 going back to the 1980's - if that's any help.


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## Getaway

Hi Brian,  I got the Mar/Apr 2012 issue of HSM from the publisher Village Press Inc (1-800-447-7367).  It has the part 2 of the article.  The Jan/Feb issue is not available but they sent me a xerox copy of the part 1 article.  If you can not get the articles from them, I will mail you a copy.  Just let me know.


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## MikeWi

We had talked about this in Mark's cutter/grinder build:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/tool-and-cutter-grinder-build.30945/page-22#post-297279

"I emailed John and he was happy to send me a copy of all the plans, the original article and photos! He does NOT want this distributed by anyone else, as he wants to maintain control of revisions, etc. Very nice gentleman and got back to me right away ."

That's John at gadgetbuilder.com.  Nice guy.


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## brino

Hi Mike, Gadgetbuilder and everyone!

I am the "Brian" that PM'ed member "Getaway" about the plans. I only asked his secret for getting both parts since part 2 does not appear on their back issues page. He made it clear that Village Press (the HSM publisher) themselves sent him a photocopy of part 2 with his order of the issue for part 1. I am going the same route.

To be clear, we are NOT trying to violate any copyright!

-brino


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