# Craftsman 101.07301 Spindle bushing replacement



## Z2V (Jun 7, 2017)

Hello 
My first lathe so everything is new to me. I picked up this lathe a few weeks ago. It appears to need spindle bushings in a bad way. I tried tightening down on the top screws but without much luck. 
New bushings will be here tomorrow from Clausing, thanks Robert for pointing me there. They were about half of what Sears wanted.
So, I'm sure others here have changed these before. I'm just asking if there is anything I need to look out for? Looks pretty straightforward, remove adjusting collar and spindle gear from the end. I assume there are some set screws on the spindle pulleys and then slide the spindle out to the right. Am I headed in the right direction? Is there anything special to R&R of the bushings? Do I need to soak the new bushings in oil first before installing?
One other thing, removing the three jaw chuck. I chucked up the short end of a 1/2" Allen wrench and locked in the back gear. I gave the Allen a few sharp blows with a hammer but all I got was the back gear kept jumping out. Just hit it harder? They are RH thread ?
Forgive me for all the questions all at once.
Any and all replies, tips, pointers, or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
TIA
Jeff


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## westsailpat (Jun 8, 2017)

Hi Jeff , I had my spindle out about a year ago (just to clean and inspect) I remember watching some youtube vids before I did it . There are some things you have to watch for ,but no big deal . I think you are headed in the right direction , just take it slow and watch for stuff falling on the ground . As far as the new bushings , from the pictures I have seen they lack a oil hole and the saw cut (one thing I'm thinking about is maybe a shallow oil groove on the ID) I would use oil on the assembly for sure and maybe a bit of a break in time . 
Your chuck is stuck  , bummer ! Yes RH thd.  I would be very careful with the back gear pin , I would try to lock it up some other way and use some kind of penetrating oil .


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## Z2V (Jun 8, 2017)

Hello Mark
If all else fails I guess I can leave the chuck on to change bushings. I might have a better chance getting it off with it out anyway. In the pic is this a nut or is it part of the chuck? Kinda looks like a jam nut. I squirt a little Kroil on it every time I go out there.
Thanks for the input.


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## Z2V (Jun 8, 2017)

Yes, that is a nut. It holds the chuck together. The chuck came right off with one smack of the hammer.  Love that Kroil!


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## wa5cab (Jun 8, 2017)

Good job.  It is OK to lock the spindle by engaging back gear without pulling the direct drive pin under normal circumstances.  That is, in fact, how the MOLO says to do it.  But if one or two sharp pulls with the chuck's T-handle wrench or Tommy Bar does not break the chuck loose, you have a stuck chuck.  Never use the back gears to free a stuck chuck. 

Probably the safest way to remove a stuck chuck (assuming that the lathe is anchored to its stand) is to remove the M6-32 threaded collar and spindle gear from the left end of the spindle.  This uncovers a Woodruff key.  Buy two new keys.  Make a locking wrench out of a suitable length of 3/4" or 1" flat bar.  Bore a hole in one end that is a slip fit over the end of the spindle.  Broach a keyway in the hole.  Install one of the new keys.  Slide the wrench on the end of the spindle to center up the key.  Pad the edge of the bench with a piece of 1x4 to protect the bench.  Remove the chuck.  Remove the wrench and replace the key with the other new one.  Reinstall the gear and collar and adjust the spindle end float. Store the wrench in case you ever need it again.

On one of your other questions, there is one set screw in the hub of the bull gear over the Woodruff key (the bull gear is the largest of the three gears on the spindle - and don't confuse this screw with the one on the OD of the gear - that one holds the spring and detent ball for the direct drive pin).  And either one or two in the M6-32 adjusting collar.  There is NO set screw in the pulley.  The one there that looks like a set screw is actually an oil hole plug.  Read the screed on this subject in the Sticky area at the top of this Forum.


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## Z2V (Jun 8, 2017)

Thank you Robert


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## wazzabie (Aug 6, 2022)

Z2V said:


> Hello Mark
> If all else fails I guess I can leave the chuck on to change bushings. I might have a better chance getting it off with it out anyway. In the pic is this a nut or is it part of the chuck? Kinda looks like a jam nut. I squirt a little Kroil on it every time I go out there.
> Thanks for the input.
> 
> ...


I have this same chuck on my 101.07301 lathe.  Would this have been the original chuck with the lathe?  Does this chuck have no backplate?


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## wa5cab (Aug 7, 2022)

It could be or have been the original chuck bought at the same time as the lathe as it was one of the 3-jaw chucks available from Sears in the early years.  And if memory serves, probably the least expensive one.  But wherever it came from, all of the spindle chucks that either Atlas or Sears sold were purchased separately from the lathe.

If by Back Plate you mean something purchased separate from the chuck and then bolted to the back of the chuck to provide  threads to fit those on the spindle, no.  This part with the 1"-8 internal threads "is" the back plate.  It came with the chuck.  If you wanted to use this chuck on a 618, you would have to remove the part with the 1"-8 threads, purchase the similar spare part with 1"-10 threads from the chuck manufacturer and install it on the chuck..  And hope for the best on run-out.


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