# A crazy thought and potential project.



## Squatchhhammer (Apr 13, 2014)

I was looking around for machines and looking at a couple of resources for said companies of the machines, I want to try something probably incredibly costly and time consuming but I am a person that likes to tinker. I am also someone that likes big and involved projects. The idea I had was to try to make at least a bench lathe from scratch. From cast parts to machining most of the components that I can. Granted this will cost more than purchasing one from the cheap asian imports but with a better chance of higher quality. Maybe if everything goes well, I might look into making full size machines to say "yes I built my own machines to work on". I want to look at what I would need, NOT how impossible it would be. I understand this is a HUGE project to do but I would like to see the results of it.


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## K\Harnish (Apr 13, 2014)

Go for it! Other than some money and time, what do you have to lose?
Maybe 10 years from now, there will be a forum category for those of lucky enough to own one of the new Squatchhhammer lathes!


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## LJP (Apr 13, 2014)

If you Google "The Gingery Lathe" you will find everything you need. David Gingery has a series of books that begins with how to build a backyard foundry, then cast the parts, and build a lathe. Many people have done it. The learning experience would be invaluable. 
Search YouTube as well.
Good luck, great project!
Larry


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## DMS (Apr 13, 2014)

I'd recommend getting your hands on the Gingery lathe book. Even if you don't plan on building one to his designs, he has a very thorough description of methods for building a machine with very minimal tools. To me, the two hardest things are going to be building a spindle that runs true, and ways that are straight. Both are doable with care, each is a project in it's own right. 

last but not least, there is a very long thread over an CNCZone about "polymer concrete", otherwise known as "epoxy granite" or "mineral castings". Basically the mass of the machine is cast from an epoxy/quartz mixture, and then mechanical parts are bolted on (like linear slides instead of ways). Last time I read through, there were a couple people that had actually produced working mills, don't recall any lathes, but in practice,  a lathe is simpler.


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## Terrywerm (Apr 13, 2014)

The Gingery lathe would be excellent, though I cannot say that from my own experience. I do have some of the other Gingery books however, and they are all excellent projects, well thought out, and well written.

I saw something quite a few years back where someone built a lathe from scrap. I do not recall how they built the bed, but the headstock and tailstock were built from truck engine pistons. They published a how to book about it. Does anyone else remember that?? 

I also saw something in the last couple of years where a fellow used some engine blocks to build a milling machine and created a website covering the build. I'll dig around and see if I can find it.

UPDATE:   Found the milling machine, actually they call it a 'multi-machine' as it can be used as a mill or a lathe. Details about it can be found at www.opensourcemachine.org.


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## Charley Davidson (Apr 13, 2014)

New forum member Gadget has built a Gingery shaper & it is awesome, he has some online videos of it in motion.


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## CluelessNewB (Apr 13, 2014)

You can poke around this link for a few different home-made lathe projects.  

http://opensourcemachinetools.org/how-to-documentsarticles/


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## cjtoombs (Apr 13, 2014)

Squatch, There is currently conversation on another forum, I'm not sure I can mention it by name but it focuses on metal casting.  They have a volunteer to cast the Gingery lathe parts in cast iron, but they are looking for a volunteer to machine and finish it.  I think that would meet their needs as well as yours, and give you a much more robust lathe than a standard Gingery machine.  Depending on what machining capability you have or can get right now, I can recommend some things that would greatly improve the stiffness of the lathe bed, if you decide to go the Gingery route.  Whatever you decide, enjoy, and I think I speak for most of the folks on here, we would love to see the progress.


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## Squatchhhammer (Apr 14, 2014)

That is something I was looking into. Also I was wondering if High carbon steel would work just as well for rigidity vs cast iron. On top of that, I am looking into what paint to use. I've seen people use Sherwin-Williams metal paint but I was also wondering what paint did the beaten metal look. I've seen some machines with it and I would like to use that style of paint.


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## Mike Cole (Apr 14, 2014)

Hi
Have you looked at the www.lathes.co.uk website, they appear to have details on 8 different home build lathes. 
I would do a large amount of reading before i started anything.There have also been stuff in the UK model enginering mags, ME and MEW and prob EiM.

Mike


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## Flammable_Solid (Apr 14, 2014)

Squatchhhammer said:


> That is something I was looking into. Also I was wondering if High carbon steel would work just as well for rigidity vs cast iron. On top of that, I am looking into what paint to use. I've seen people use Sherwin-Williams metal paint but I was also wondering what paint did the beaten metal look. I've seen some machines with it and I would like to use that style of paint.




Cast iron is a lot easier to produce than steel.  Manufacturers use it for the excellent dimensional stability and the vibration damping of the flake graphite structure.


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## John Hasler (Apr 14, 2014)

Squatchhhammer said:


> That is something I was looking into. Also I was wondering if High carbon steel would work just as well for rigidity vs cast iron. On top of that, I am looking into what paint to use. I've seen people use Sherwin-Williams metal paint but I was also wondering what paint did the beaten metal look. I've seen some machines with it and I would like to use that style of paint.



To be radical, have you considered concrete?  Magnetite concrete with steel fiber (i.e., chopped up steel wire) is very dense and rigid and provides better vibration damping than cast iron.


Is the paint you are looking for "hammertone"?


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## cjtoombs (Apr 14, 2014)

Squatchhhammer said:


> That is something I was looking into. Also I was wondering if High carbon steel would work just as well for rigidity vs cast iron. On top of that, I am looking into what paint to use. I've seen people use Sherwin-Williams metal paint but I was also wondering what paint did the beaten metal look. I've seen some machines with it and I would like to use that style of paint.



Steel varies very little in stiffness (Modulus of Elasticity) from low carbon up through the expensive alloys, so I wouldn't bother with high carbon steel, just go with 1018 or A36. Steel gives you about twice the stiffness of cast iron and about 3 times the stiffness of aluminum. I think the main reason it is not used for machine bases more is just cost of fabrication, and also the fact that you need at least one cast iron surface on sliding members (steel on steel has problems). I think a steel tube based gingery machine would be quite stiff, but getting it flat may be dificult. I have never tried scraping steel, but I hear that it is dificult.


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## DMS (Apr 14, 2014)

Scraping steel is... unsatisfying. It also makes a pretty horrible bearing surface (at least mild steel does). If you go with a steel structure, I would recommend linear rails rather than box, V, or dovetail ways.

Course, you could go steel and coat them with turcite...


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## cjtoombs (Apr 14, 2014)

Everyone on the CNC forums loves the linear rails for building machines.  They do it for the low friction, so they can get really high movement rates on the machines using small steppers and cheap drivers.  Never mind that the machine can't cut at anywhere near those rates.  I think that the hydrodynamic bearing (traditional V, square or dovetail ways) bring some definite advantages to the table.  They are low cost.  They provide better coupling of the structural elements of the machine to dampen vibration.  They are strong.  Even with a bad crash, you are very unlikely to damage a way, more likely the head of the machine will come apart.  Their performance in dirty environment is on par or better than the linear rails, they both need protection.  As far as using steel, I think using steel on one side with something else on the other, such as turcite (or one of it's competitors) or cast iron would work out fine.  Even the aluminum on steel that the Gingery machines use seems to work well, for what those are.  Steel on steel for sliding surfaces is just a bad idea.


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## Squatchhhammer (Apr 15, 2014)

Interesting, I thought steel on steel would be fine since any bearings I had used, I.E. ball, flat, needle, etc., had steel surfaces all around and just need lubrication to keep them running true and seizing. On top of that, since steel used more often I thought it would be cheaper to get a casting done instead of iron. I thought they only used iron on most brakes to have them wear out faster and make the consumer pay more. I wish I had a machinists handbook ( I know its the machinery handbook but I only heard of it in machining) to look up the information I will need. 

So on top of that, if steel is used for the main structure but then cast iron was used for most of the "bearing" surfaces like the ways and the spindle. 

Also would actual bearing assemblies would make a better spindle assembly than bushings, or would that not work as well and cause more slop within the cuts?



John Hasler said:


> To be radical, have you considered concrete?   Magnetite concrete with steel fiber (i.e., chopped up steel wire) is  very dense and rigid and provides better vibration damping than cast  iron.
> 
> 
> Is the paint you are looking for "hammertone"?




YES IT IS!!! Thank you very much. I couldn't find exactly what it was called, but I want to paint every machine I will own in that style. I love the look of it on different machines I have seen before, and I will have to get some when doing a restoration project if I'm lucky. I was looking to do a restoration project as a way to study how a machine was designed and built, since I'm more hands on. Also if I'm lucky, I might hook engineering student from a near by University; MSU or Michigan State University, to look into doing a project of that sort.


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## f350ca (Apr 15, 2014)

The bearings you are familiar with are designed to roll not slide, steel on steel sliding surfaces are not great. With the exception of cast iron you usually want one material harder than the other for sliding surfaces to prevent galling,
Hardened steel is used on the bed of Hardinge lathes with the mating carriage being cast iron on the early models and I believe a teflon sheet on the newer ones,
Greg


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## DMS (Apr 15, 2014)

Mild steel is never (hardly ever?) used as a bearing surface. It's far too soft. When steel is used, it is usually hardened, and used in conjunction with a plain bearing made of a softer material such as brass, bronze, or babbitt. 

Lots of older lathes used plain bearings to great effect. They have some benefits, buy you will notice that nobody makes new lathes with plain bearings (to my knowledge), and there is probably a reason for that. A lot of it likely has to do with cost (lots of adjustment needed to get plain bearings working "just right"). Plain bearings also tend to have a lower top speed, but if you are not running at 6k RPM, it's probably not an issue. 

Regarding the use of steel in machine tools, try this experiment. Take the handle of a screwdriver and tap it against a bar of steel. You will hear a distinct "ring", like a tuning fork. Now try the same think with a piece of cast iron. You will hear a dull "dunk" sound. CI is much better at absorbing vibration than steel. Something to keep in mind.


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## Squatchhhammer (Apr 15, 2014)

I was trying to find Timken bearing prices for their super precision bearings, but there's a problem with that. Every site I went to had a "you must sign up to get a quote" just to roughly see a price. So I went on ebay, and what I had found out there for any price is that I might be looking at a 500 USD to a 1000+ USD price tag PER BEARING!! So probably back to using bushings. I was hoping to make it more precise and modular for the test piece, but seeing the price what bearings are, I now understand the reason why the manufactures went with bushings.


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## cjtoombs (Apr 15, 2014)

Try VXB.  They carry NSK angular contact ball bearings in ABEC 7, which are what are used on modern machine spindles.  Depending on the size, they are quite a bit cheaper than what you are finding on Timkens.  They still aren't cheap, just not quite that high.  Also, the quality of the bearings, from a runnout perspective, matters much less if you finish the spindle while it is running in those bearings.


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## DMS (Apr 15, 2014)

That sounds very high for precision tapered rollers (unless you are specifying a huge spindle bore). For something around 12" swing size, and a 3/4 hole through spindle, I would expect closer to $150 per bearing. You should be able to get a matched set of ABEC-7 angular contact bearings for under $300 (name brand). 

Keep in mind total cost, if you go with bronze bushings, you are going to want to harden the shaft, which means grinding afterwards. Unless you have the facilities to do this yourself, that is going to add to the total cost of the spindle assembly, and likely put you back to where you would be with AC or tapered rollers.


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## Rbeckett (Apr 15, 2014)

Squatchhhammer said:


> I was looking around for machines and looking at a couple of resources for said companies of the machines, I want to try something probably incredibly costly and time consuming but I am a person that likes to tinker. I am also someone that likes big and involved projects. The idea I had was to try to make at least a bench lathe from scratch. From cast parts to machining most of the components that I can. Granted this will cost more than purchasing one from the cheap asian imports but with a better chance of higher quality. Maybe if everything goes well, I might look into making full size machines to say "yes I built my own machines to work on". I want to look at what I would need, NOT how impossible it would be. I understand this is a HUGE project to do but I would like to see the results of it.



There is a site on Yahoo groups that will give you a ton of help doing exactly what you are looking to do.  I say go for it and learn all you can and have a great time doing it.  It is possible and fairly easy to build a lathe and milling machine.  The site is : https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Multimachine-Concrete-Machine-Tools/info.  They have been developing many ways to skin that cat and can help you out if you need it.

Bob


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## Squatchhhammer (Apr 16, 2014)

DMS said:


> That sounds very high for precision tapered rollers (unless you are specifying a huge spindle bore). For something around 12" swing size, and a 3/4 hole through spindle, I would expect closer to $150 per bearing. You should be able to get a matched set of ABEC-7 angular contact bearings for under $300 (name brand).
> 
> Keep in mind total cost, if you go with bronze bushings, you are going to want to harden the shaft, which means grinding afterwards. Unless you have the facilities to do this yourself, that is going to add to the total cost of the spindle assembly, and likely put you back to where you would be with AC or tapered rollers.



I'm trying to do it with some relative cost to what an original would go for. I want something 1.5 to 2 inch hole through spindle, but if costs prove that too much, I would try to make it to a workable size. I'm right now at a standstill since I need room to do the necessary work. With that, I would like to find an actual film or book really detailing how one of these machines that are made from a known manufacturer, but I have no such luck with that. 

Also for the bearings, since that would be a more available route to take, how would I go about to do the spindle? I had worked on South Bend H10 lathes and Kent's, and I want to know how hard would it be to machine a spindle for one of those to be able to mount multiple jaw chucks and still have a way to attach collet?

Edit: It was the high precision ball bearing assemblies.


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## DMS (Apr 16, 2014)

I don't know of a book that is going to tell you that, lots of it is "trade secret" sort of stuff. If you have the most accurate, or cheapest precision spindle out there it's probably because of what you are doing, and how you are doing it; you're not gonna just give that info out to anybody 

One group that does give that info out is bearing manufacturers, mainly because they want to help you design things with bearings so they can sell their product. They have a vested interest in this. SKF and Nachi both have good material available online that describe bearing types, design tradeoffs, etc. I have been reading through all this stuff lately because I am working on designing a 4th axis for my mill. Overall design is the same as a lathe spindle. In general the choice of bearings goes something like this

1) Deep groove ball bearings for cheap (low load, low precission) spindles. This is what most small import machines come with. They work fine, and they are cheap and easily available. Not great at axial loading. Pre-loading is fiddly.
2) Angular contact bearings for high speed, high precision spindles. This is what lots of mid to high end machines use. Not as good at shock loads as tapered rollers, and not as stiff, but they do go zoooom.
3) Tapered roller bearings. They are better at shock loads, and are stiffer. Not as good for high speed spindles.
4) The works. Higher end spindles (especially heavy duty spindles) use multiple types. Typically this would be a combination between cyclindrical roller bearings for taking heavy radial loads, and sets of angular contact bearings for taking axial loads.


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## Squatchhhammer (Apr 17, 2014)

So I just have to use two or three type of bearings for the spindle. Now for the spindle itself, I had looked into the shape of general spindles, and I think that will be the hardest part to make for the head of the lathe. For the acne threads, I wonder if there's a length you could order or they have to be cut to what you demand?

Edit:

Ok found some on both Granger and MSC, they run about ~35 to 200 dollars for a 6 foot length. Now what diameter should I use with what thread size? Also, are there any that go longer?


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## cjtoombs (Apr 17, 2014)

Squatch,
If you are really looking to keep costs down, Surplus Center has acme rods dirt cheap.  The pitch you use depends on what they are for.  In general, 8 TPI is used on smaller lathe leadscrews (4 on larger lathes), and that is what most change gear setups are arranged for.  Also, it helps to have a lead that is some nice even number of divisions in thousandths when you make your handwheels.  8 TPI gives you .125 per revolution, 10 TPI gives you .100, 5 TPI gives .200.  You want to avoid things like 6 TPI for a manual machine, as it gives an uneven number of divisions for the handwheel.  If the machine is CNC, it doesn't matter, you just tell the computer the pitch and it accounts for that when you move the machine.  For CNC the pitch is generally chosen to give a certain movement rate such as 50 inches per minute (IPM) given a set max motor RPM, which depends on your motor and driver setup.  As for diameter, that depends mainly on load and how long the screw is (and what direction the load is in).  The longer the screw, the larger it needs to be to prevent buckling under compression loading.  You can get a good idea by looking at the leadscrew sizes on commercially built lathes.  The leadscrew can be setup to work only in tension, by fixing the leadscrew to the frame and turning the leadnut on the screw, but that is a bit of work to setup, and hard to do on a manual machine.


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## Muzzer (Apr 17, 2014)

Try bearingscanada.com perhaps. You may not choose to buy them there I don't know but they have pricing online. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## iron man (Apr 17, 2014)

Squatchhhammer said:


> I was looking around for machines and looking at a couple of resources for said companies of the machines, I want to try something probably incredibly costly and time consuming but I am a person that likes to tinker. I am also someone that likes big and involved projects. The idea I had was to try to make at least a bench lathe from scratch. From cast parts to machining most of the components that I can. Granted this will cost more than purchasing one from the cheap asian imports but with a better chance of higher quality. Maybe if everything goes well, I might look into making full size machines to say "yes I built my own machines to work on". I want to look at what I would need, NOT how impossible it would be. I understand this is a HUGE project to do but I would like to see the results of it.




 Not that huge of a project I made one from scratch with no castings when I was in my 20s here is a picture of it in its unfinished form I quit on it when I got another lathe but recently I started to finish it I have most of it painted now and I am working on the QCGB. The ways are hard chromed the carriage and tail stock have removable brass plates on them I can post some more recent photos if you would like. It has also two types of feed with a clutch. Ray

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=13850&p=108061#post108061


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## Squatchhhammer (Apr 18, 2014)

Actually I might see if I can get my school involved with this now. Figuring the most I would have to is machining the parts that I can, and probably with some of the other students in the machining class, and for the frame, have the welding class do that.

Now thinking of it, I wonder how difficult would it be to sonic weld plates together?

Also the lathe I want to do is going to be totally manual for the first one.


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## iron man (Apr 18, 2014)

It does not look like this now it has been polished and painted i just have to put mine back together I dont know enough about sonic welding this one was all old school welding and then heated annealed and straighten, I then took it over to our surface grinder and started in after that the bed and some of the other handles and knobs I made where sent to the chrome shop thats back when things where cheap. Ray


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## Squatchhhammer (Apr 18, 2014)

iron man said:


> View attachment 74796
> 
> 
> It does not look like this now it has been polished and painted i just have to put mine back together I dont know enough about sonic welding this one was all old school welding and then heated annealed and straighten, I then took it over to our surface grinder and started in after that the bed and some of the other handles and knobs I made where sent to the chrome shop thats back when things where cheap. Ray



Well sonic welding is a friction weld with no large motion. I used it when I was in a sensor factory, and when I did some research it was said to be able to weld metal. So, it might be a bit of a stretch to do, but got to remember that I'm kinda crazy about trying new and different stuff.


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## Don B (Apr 18, 2014)

You might get some useful info from this book.

How to Make an 8-inch Bench Lathe in the School Shop - 1920
Google digitize public domain material: https://archive.org/details/howtomakeaninch00goog

Direct D/L link : https://ia600301.us.archive.org/24/items/howtomakeaninch00goog/howtomakeaninch00goog.pdf



Also try a search for " Rivett 608 Lathe " I'm not sure about copyright on this one but " Blueprints.pdf " can be found.


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## Squatchhhammer (Apr 19, 2014)

While at it, I am looking around in my area for scrap yards for material, and other things for parts and whatnot. So with that, is finding a piece of another lathe and building around it a good idea, or is it too much work and just use it for parts.


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## Squatchhhammer (Apr 25, 2014)

Ok, I was wondering how hard it would be to weld up plates into a shape? I've seen it on a youtube video, but thinking of doing this on a full size engine lathe might be impractical. Also I am right now drawing and hopefully going to have what shape I want my lathe to be with some dimentions. If I can get my student version of solid works to work again, I can probably give you guys a full 3d render of general shape to work off of, and at the same time use it to make the parts I would need.

Also I was wondering if it would be a bad idea to make the ways of the bed in sections instead of one long piece in order to be able to machine them in smaller parts, and to replace the worn sections without having to rescrape the whole bed length?


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## DMS (Apr 25, 2014)

Squatchhhammer said:


> While at it, I am looking around in my area for scrap yards for material, and other things for parts and whatnot. So with that, is finding a piece of another lathe and building around it a good idea, or is it too much work and just use it for parts.



That could save you some time, assuming the pieces are in good shape. Depending on how much you find though, it becomes more of a restoration exercise than a build exercise


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## jagwinn (Apr 25, 2014)

Squatchhhammer said:


> I wish I had a machinists handbook ( I know its the machinery handbook but I only heard of it in machining) to look up the information I will need.



http://www.varjepc.com/admin/upload/handbooks/Machinerys Handbook.pdf The 26th edition Machinery Handbook 2,638 page .pdf.

http://www.evenfallstudios.com/wood...k_for_machine_shop_and_drafting_room_1914.pdf This is the GoogleBook digitized 1914 edition!

Both free.

http://www.industrialpress.com/ext/StaticPages/Handbook/MH29Demo/MH29/Handbook.pdf The latest edition, just purchase the part you need [if you know what part that is from the chapter divisions] Have a look, anyway!


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## Marco Bernardini (Apr 25, 2014)

Squatch, may I suggest a different approach?
Start with a very basic ("primitive") wood lathe, even better if foot powered.
It don't requires great precision: half millimeters are enough.
With such a lathe you can turn plastic instead of wood, so you don't have to be concerned by the grain and all the other issues driving crazy the woodworkers.
Then, following all the technology improvements, transform it into a "contemporary" metal lathe.
IMHO this is the best way to learn not just how a lathe works, but also _why _it is made in a certain way.
Don't forget to examine even the "dead branches" of technology: sometimes good ideas die just because nobody is able to spread them enough, some others simply disappear because they don't work as planned.
For example, why lathes have just a bed and don't have a "ceiling"? A sort of gantry over the bed would increase overall rigidity. And why lathes are horizontal? In a vertical lathe the weight of the piece would be totally supported by the tailstock, reducing the load on the headstock bearings.
A lathe is not just a motor with a spindle, but rather a cauldron full of neat ideas!


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## DMS (Apr 25, 2014)

You can turn metal on a such a lathe. Indeed, it's very similar to some simple watchmakers lathes (sometimes using a treadle, sometimes using a bow). There is an episode of the PBS series "The Woodwrights Shop" where the host builds a simple treadle lathe.


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## Squatchhhammer (Apr 26, 2014)

Marco Bernardini said:


> Squatch, may I suggest a different approach?
> Start with a very basic ("primitive") wood lathe, even better if foot powered.
> It don't requires great precision: half millimeters are enough.
> With such a lathe you can turn plastic instead of wood, so you don't have to be concerned by the grain and all the other issues driving crazy the woodworkers.
> ...



Thanks for the thought. I wish I could do all that, but the problem will be both space and money. In the end, I figured with the resources in the near foreseeable future, ie. not winning a huge lotto or another type of windfall, I wont be able to do all that. That's why a big lathe first with the features that I know and want right away and build from there. 

Also, THANK YOU VERY MUCH JAGWINN!!!!!!


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## Micscience (May 19, 2014)

Hi, I'm new here this is my second post. I have been reading threw this thread since it is about building a lathe. I am in the process of building one myself. I figured I would put this link up to a youtube video where some guy made a pretty cool looking lathe. Not sure if I'm reviving a dead horse with this video but this lathe is pretty awesome for homemade. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXAzJE9Zs8s


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## therbig (May 19, 2014)

Well, now that's very impressive!  I wonder how stiff the setup is of the two I-beams compared to a cast-iron bed.


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## John Hasler (May 19, 2014)

therbig said:


> Well, now that's very impressive!  I wonder how stiff the setup is of the two I-beams compared to a cast-iron bed.



That's the homemade lathe I wish I'd bought.  The I-beams would be stiffer filled with concrete, though.


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## cjtoombs (May 19, 2014)

There seems to be a lot of talk, and some misconception about concrete use in home built machine tools.  The modulus of elasticity of steel is around 30 million PSI, the modulus of elasticity of 10,000 psi concrete is about 6 million (depending on the density, that number is probably near the high end of what it could be).  So in general, while the concrete will make it stiffer, you would have to use either quite a lot of it or us it in such a way as to have very deep structures, which would compensate for the concretes low modulus to make a noticeable difference.  Of course, a deep structure would have to have steel reinforcement in the tensile direction, or it would just crack.  What concrete does bring to the table is vibration damping.  I think adding concrete to a steel structure without specifically designing the structure to use the concrete effectively is a waste of time.  Adding it for vibration dampening may be worthwhile, but building a steel structure that is very stiff may head off vibration problems anyway, by moving the natural frequency of the structure above the vibration frequencies that would be generated anyway.  In short, if you didn't design the tool to begin with to use concrete to best advantage, it may not do any noticeable good.  For a machine like this, if I were going to use concrete, I would probably make the bases for it out of steel reinforced concrete and bolt the machine structure to it and it to the floor to maximize it’s effect.


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