# 1006/1007 quill lock



## epj (Mar 29, 2019)

The quill lock on my Grizzly 1007 no longer holds the quill from moving when using fly cutter. I have removed the two aluminum wedges that hold the quill and cleaned them.  Even using a plastic hammer on the handle won’t hold it. Even if I hold the hand wheel the quill will move a few thousandths over six inches of table travel. This wasn’t a problem when the mill was new. Something has worn, but I can’t find what.


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## epj (Mar 30, 2019)

The quill lock on my Grizzly 1007 no longer holds the quill from moving when using fly cutter. I have removed the two aluminum wedges that hold the quill and cleaned them.  Even using a plastic hammer on the handle won’t hold it. Even if I hold the hand wheel the quill will move a few thousandths over six inches of table travel. This wasn’t a problem when the mill was new. Something has worn, but I can’t find what. The handwheel itself is also very sloppy. But it always has been. The thought of using the micrometer counter on it is absurd. I have replaced that function with an iGauging digital scale. But  I do wonder if the slop in the handwheel may contribute to the problem. Any assistance greatly appreciated.


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## Eddyde (Mar 30, 2019)

Try a washer under the shoulder of the lock handle, this should prevent the threads from bottoming out prematurely.


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## RJSakowski (Mar 30, 2019)

Your mill is constructed very similar to my old mill/drill.  The lock is accomplished by pulling the two cylinders with the beveled ends (P/N 325 & 326) by means of the cylinder lock lever (P/N 324).  If the problem occurred after a reassembly, it is very likely tha one or both of the cylinders were installed backwards or at the wrong rotation.  The bevel should be contacting the quill in both cases.  If the problem occurred gradually over time, you could be running out the thread, in which case, an additional washer should do the trick.  I would expect that this is unlikely, though as these are not moving parts.


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## epj (Mar 30, 2019)

Well, the threaded end is open, so no way to run out of threads. I did determine that the threads on the handle had a sticky spot, which i removed. It seems like maybe it’s tightening up better, but I’ll have to mill some steel to be sure. Actually it won’t even stay tight on aluminum.


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## Eddyde (Mar 30, 2019)

Could it be the wedges are touching when tightened?


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## epj (Mar 30, 2019)

Hummm. That’s possible. I’ll check that out.


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## Canuck75 (Mar 30, 2019)

I have a King PDM30 mill/drill and found the pot metal sections of the quill lock only contacted the quill at a small point on each of the sections. Made new pieces as one from CRS with the radius matching the quill diameter exactly, then cut them apart at the halfway point. The lock now engages the quill fully. Your problem might be slippage under the duress of the interupted cut. Just a thought.


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## epj (Mar 30, 2019)

I’m sort of thinking along these lines. Maybe I need to order some new ones.


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## hman (Mar 31, 2019)

I have a G1007 myself.  Just took a look at the "wedges."  My best guess as to what's causing your problem is that the contact surfaces between the wedges and the quill have worn over time.  This would require the wedges to be pulled into each other further and further, until <maybe> they run into each other, thus preventing further tightening.  If it looks like this is the case with your mill, you could try filing some material off the "mating" faces of one or both of the wedges.

Hope this helps!


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## epj (Mar 31, 2019)

I trimmed the wedges a bit. Also cleaned up the rounded portion. So far I can’t tell any difference but I’ve only been taking some light cuts in aluminum with an end mill. We will see what happenes when I try fly cutting on some steel.


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## epj (Apr 14, 2019)

I ordered and received replacement “wedges”. Where I had tried to dress the curved area that mates with the quill, I couldn’t get the arc quite exact so they weren’t making complete contact with the quill. The new ones have a couple of high spots. The high spot is the only thing that makes contact. The lock is working better, but after a few more uses I’m going to take it apart and carefully dress the high spots. Bottom line is that I desperately need a knee mill.


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## Canuck75 (Apr 22, 2019)

Additional suggestion that might help. When matching the radius in the replacement "wedges" to the quill I first put the right size round bar in the quill locking mechanism hole, then measured accurately from the bar to the front of the quill bore. This determined exactly how deep the matching quill radius needed to be cut. I was confident that just a saw cut in the middle of the radius would be enough to assure a tight fit and a perfect clamp on the quill.

Hope that helps


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## epj (Apr 24, 2019)

You wouldn’t have pictures by any chance?


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