# Newb quick change tool post/tooling suggestions



## GunsOfNavarone

Good evening fellas. I am picking up my G0602z at the UPS hub in the next few days (renting a trailer so I can drive it directly into my garage) anyway, I was looking at QCP as I won't have the patience for the stock one. Any suggestions? I realize it is a budget lathe so of course I'm not looking at a $1000 setup, but if it doesn't work well and isn't good at being....well, a quick change then....I
A couple ideas, ALORIS & DORIAN. Also size/series.
Now along with the post....the tools. Remeber, this is a whole new field for me. I understand the different types for different approaches/cuts, but brands/material? I need to get in ordering soon! Anything else that will make my life easier?
Thanks as always!


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## Norppu

I have found out that the cheap import tollposts work really well. At least mine does. Of course, as always, one should open the thing and remove all casting sand and grinding compound that is left inside. Some of the surfaces may need to meet a file.

I have a similarly sized chinese lathe and I have found the following items usable:
- quick change tool post
- 4-jaw chuck
- indicator holder that attaches in the tool post for aligning the items in the chuck (not a magnetic but physical attachment)
- extra tool holders
- Noga deburring tool
- good quality files WITH HANDLES
- set of micrometers
- dial caliper
- dial indicator and test indicator
- good quality combination square
- LOT of patience

I have found the checp magnetic indicator stand miserable. They cannot be used for exact measurements. In addition their magnets collect small swarf particles and make everything they touch magnetic as well. I simply hate mine. So I use physical attachment for indicator whenever possible.

One thing about the tool post holder is that the bolt used to attach it to the compound is originally a rattle fit. It helps a lot if this fit is precise. One of the first things I made was a bolt to attach this thing to the compound. I also made a handle on the nut so I don't need to look for a wrench every time I need to rotate the holder.


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## RJSakowski

I have the 602 lathe. 

 I bought the Grizzly T10166 QCTP and a Grizzly 1/2" keyless chuck when I bought the lathe.  For me, the ability to easily adjust tool height was an important feature. The QCTP set is compatible with AXA tooling and I bought additional tool holders from Shars as they seemed better made than the Grizzly tool holders and were actually less expensive.  The QCTP has performed well for me.  If I were buying a new QCTP, I would get the wedge style rather than the piston style.  Not that I have had problems with the piston style but the wedge style is reported to have better repeatability.

A collet chuck is a good addition as it permits reasonably low TIR work without having to resort to dialing in the four jaw.  It also provides for better grip on parts, especcially thin wall and less chance of marring the finish of the part.  

I bought a 5C collet chuck for the lathe, largely because I already had a 5C collet set.  Had I not had the collets, I probably would have gone with an ER32 or ER40 chuck as they had a larger grip range and would require fewer collets to cover the entire working range. A 5C collet set would increment by a least 1/32" and preferably by 1/64".

For tooling, I already had a good selection of brazed carbide and HHS tool bits.  I regrind my worn tool bits which makes for very economixal operation.  For carbide, I use a $100 HF diamond disk.  I recently added carbide insert tooling.

The first major upgrade that I made was to make a six bolt hold down for the compound. It is detailed elsewhere on this forum and has been copied and is available commercially. It greatly adds to the rigidity of the compound.  I also made a carriage stop and a spindle stop.  Both are detailed elsewhere on this forum.

The largest  and most complicated modification was adding a reversing tumbler.  Aside from adding the capability of left hand threading, it permits easily disengaging the lower gear train which saves wear and tear on the gears and lead screw.  I made a new threading dial as the OEM dial was poorly made and didn't register properly. A detailed posting was done on the site.

I added a three axis DRO to the lathe (x, z, and tailstock) based on the TouchDRO by Yuryi.  At the very least, adding an iGaging DRO to the tailstock makes for accurate movements when using the tailstock.  A detailed posting was done on the site.


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## jbolt

For the G0602z lathe you are looking at an AXA size QCTP.  

My first ever tool post was a piston type. I now have a wedge type which I think is the better of the two styles. The piston type never felt locked in and they sometimes wont work with other brands of holders. I've never had a holder not fit a wedge type.

I have had both Aloris & Dorian BXA size tool posts on my previous lathe and currently have a Bostar import CXA size on my current lathe. The difference is in overall quality, fit and finish. Performance wise I have found no difference and I run my equipment hard sometimes. That being said, if I come across a good deal on a used Dorian I will change out my Bostar for that just because they are smoother in operation and the handle position is adjustable. 

As for tool holders I think the ones from Allied Industrial are the best bang for the buck.


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## GunsOfNavarone

Awe man! This is exactly the kind of details I really need to know. Learning the way that cost money, waste & time has been avoided! Well maybe not EVERYTHING, but a huge help guys, I really appreciate it.


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## poplarhouse

I bought my QCTP from my favorite store, Amazon, about 18 months ago: All Industrial QCTP and I notice the price is still the same. Additional AXA holders are $15. I use it on a Smithy and only had to slightly enlarge the hole in the compound to make it fit. I made a nut with a handle on it instead of having to search for a wrench all the time; most people do the same. It's worked great for me.


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## Eddyde

I have a Phase 2 brand (chinese) AXA on my Southbend, I've been pretty happy with it. No need to break you bank on a top brand for hobby use.


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## Chris Hamel

I have been using an import QCTP on my 9 inch sb lathe and it has worked out fine.  I have made several tool holders out of aluminum and they worked fine and were fun projects.  Be sure to watch Tubal Cain's dove tail cutting video on YouTube.


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## GunsOfNavarone

Eddyde said:


> I have a Phase 2 brand (chinese) AXA on my Southbend, I've been pretty happy with it. No need to break you bank on a top brand for hobby use.


If my memory serves me, I believe the America company (forgot which of the two i mentioned) is only $100 more than the Chinese version. With tariff being around for the foreseeable future, we probably should get use to either inflated prices or making an American purchase. Part of my problem is, I don't know what is at what level of quality yet....all these names are new to me. The sticker price is all I have for a litmus so I really rely on the info from you guys....again, I super appreciate it and don't (not) take it into consideration.


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## GunsOfNavarone

Chris Hamel said:


> I have been using an import QCTP on my 9 inch sb lathe and it has worked out fine.  I have made several tool holders out of aluminum and they worked fine and were fun projects.  Be sure to watch Tubal Cain's dove tail cutting video on YouTube.


I will be looking into his videos...THANKS!


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## jdedmon91

GunsOfNavarone said:


> I will be looking into his videos...THANKS!



I just made a video on how I set up cutting dovetails.






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## jdedmon91

I have the wrench mounted on my splash guard on my lathe. Truthfully I don’t move my block around to change any cutting angle 


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## jdedmon91

Chris Hamel said:


> I have been using an import QCTP on my 9 inch sb lathe and it has worked out fine. I have made several tool holders out of aluminum and they worked fine and were fun projects. Be sure to watch Tubal Cain's dove tail cutting video on YouTube.



The import tool holders are inexpensive. However my favorite turning tools are ones I put dovetails in a larger tool holder and mounted directly to the tool post 

Here is a video on how I do it 





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## GunsOfNavarone

I gotta admit, I'm a hands on kind of guy. Much of this stuff loses me with any practical under my belt. I'm gonna have to revise much of this after I spend some time on the mill. I can't even picture how you don't adjust the block to change cutting angle....
Soon....soon


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## jdedmon91

GunsOfNavarone said:


> I gotta admit, I'm a hands on kind of guy. Much of this stuff loses me with any practical under my belt. I'm gonna have to revise much of this after I spend some time on the mill. I can't even picture how you don't adjust the block to change cutting angle....
> Soon....soon



Because I use tools that use CNMG inert, these tools are designed to face and turn mainly in CNC lathes that are fixed. If you see any video I use my lathe to turn you will show how they work 


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## GunsOfNavarone

Okay, after some poking about, I am seeing that the tool holder range in size. I believe the G060# normally holds 3/8" but the AXA can go up to 3 /4" . Suggestions here guys? This is a 10x22 lathe, I want to have many tool holders setup and ready to go. I like the Phase2 and LittleMachineShop versions of the wedge style QCTP. This is all brand new to me and I just want to do this once.
Danke


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## mikey

It isn't just about which tools will fit into the holders; it is more about what size will allow you to get the tool tip on the centerline of the lathe. I am going to guess that 3/8" tooling will work best.


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## GunsOfNavarone

That is correct. The stock 4 way tool post will hold up to.a 1/2" ....I assume that means it can be indexed to centerline...
Any thoughts between LittleMachineShop's QCTP VS Phase 2? If the.machine shops is American made a d Phase 2 is Chinese, then LittleMachineShop, why do I think both are Chinese?


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## mikey

I would not make that assumption; you should check to be sure.

My impression is that LMS sell mostly Chinese tools and that applies to their QCTP.  Nothing wrong with that, though. From what I've read, the Phase II stuff might be a little better quality but I have no first hand knowledge of that. I own Aloris and Dorian stuff.


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## Z2V

I had a LMS OXA size QCTP on my little Craftsman lathe. It was Chinese but was well made and work just fine. The set screws in the tool holders did not strip out and held good.


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## MarkM

Just my opinion but why not stick it out with the original toolpost and spend your money elsewhere for now on quality tools your going to need.  A quality live centre alone will be over 300$.  Once you have shimmed your tooling keep the shims with the tools with an elastic band.  A four post tool post can be quicker than a qctp.  Four tools held in each position and simply index the toolpost to the next tool.  Quicker than a qctp.  Down the rd.  Maybe look into a qctp. For now I would put the money towards quality.  It s crazy expensive and you only want to buy once.  Don t cheap out it will only be replaced at a later date.


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## GunsOfNavarone

So I went Phase 2. There seems to be a lot of good reviews on it but still affordable versus some...I don’t even know where to start with tooling, bought a Accusize 7 tool kit...again, high reviews...it’s all I got to go on.
The tool post really seems to be everyone’s #1 mod they do to (at least) this lathe. I know I have much to still buy AND I plan on buying a mill in the next few weeks...yikes!
4 days now...still not even plugged in...


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## macardoso

I was just responding to a similar post a few days ago. Here were my suggestions...

I just tooled up a slightly larger 12x36 lathe. After a few months of using it, here are my thoughts.

Used all the time:
-Swiss Type test indication (0.0005") and flexible mag base. This is a must have. You don't need to spend a fortune.
-1/2" keyless drill chuck and MT arbor to match tailstock. Don't buy bigger than 1/2" right now.
-Quick change tool post (CDCO tool makes a cheap but nice one)
-4 jaw chuck. Must have for any accurate work where you must pick up existing features or requires back work.
-Basic OD turning tools and a few boring bars (I use indexable carbide, but most will point you to HSS, you decide)
-Measuring tools, get some calipers, telescoping bore gages, micrometers as big as you expect to turn (0-3" to start maybe?), and the test indicator stated above. Your work is only as good as you can measure. You don't need super name brand stuff, but I would recommend buying new, or at least buying standards to check your used instruments.

Used only a little:
-Dead center
-Live center

Haven't used and probably might never need:
-Faceplate
-Headstock center
-turning dogs

I love Shars tool company (out of Illinois). They import all their stuff, but it seems to be better quality than most imports (plus they will replace anything which doesn't meet your quality standards). They're pretty inexpensive too.

IMO, there is a a difference in buying junk, midrange, and production quality stuff.  Don't waste your money on the junk, but don't go crazy on the tooling cost, unless you intend to start production runs.  The nicer, import stuff works great and will last many years.


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## Smithdoor

when I set up my I purchase  ALORIS 
But At time Aloris was new on market and the price was not to bad.
Today I would look at lower cost version 

Dave 




GunsOfNavarone said:


> Good evening fellas. I am picking up my G0602z at the UPS hub in the next few days (renting a trailer so I can drive it directly into my garage) anyway, I was looking at QCP as I won't have the patience for the stock one. Any suggestions? I realize it is a budget lathe so of course I'm not looking at a $1000 setup, but if it doesn't work well and isn't good at being....well, a quick change then....I
> A couple ideas, ALORIS & DORIAN. Also size/series.
> Now along with the post....the tools. Remeber, this is a whole new field for me. I understand the different types for different approaches/cuts, but brands/material? I need to get in ordering soon! Anything else that will make my life easier?
> Thanks as always!


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## jdedmon91

GunsOfNavarone said:


> So I went Phase 2. There seems to be a lot of good reviews on it but still affordable versus some...I don’t even know where to start with tooling, bought a Accusize 7 tool kit...again, high reviews...it’s all I got to go on.
> The tool post really seems to be everyone’s #1 mod they do to (at least) this lathe. I know I have much to still buy AND I plan on buying a mill in the next few weeks...yikes!
> 4 days now...still not even plugged in...



Good choice. I have a EBay special on my lathe the handle was indexed wrong and the threads would not restart to correct it. The bad thing the piston one from Grizzly that came on the lathe was that way also. 

I drilled and tapped a new hole and moved the handle where it was supposed to be. Then made a plug for the old hole. 


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## tcarrington

My G0602 with the fixed 4 position tool hold did NOT allow for 1/2 inch tools. You can cut or grind off the bottoms (or tops) or just go with 3/8". I recommend the latter. I got my QCTP from Shars and have been very satisfied. It repeats excellently which is the main reason for me. You might check PM for a carbide insert set for your lathe. They have a 3/8" with inserts for both ferrous and non-ferrous (one way to describe it).


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## GunsOfNavarone

jdedmon91 said:


> Good choice. I have a EBay special on my lathe the handle was indexed wrong and the threads would not restart to correct it. The bad thing the piston one from Grizzly that came on the lathe was that way also.
> 
> I drilled and tapped a new hole and moved the handle where it was supposed to be. Then made a plug for the old hole.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Everything you said is completely unacceptable. I mean the equipment isn't free, just affordable. I think expecting the exact opposite of your experiance(s) isn't asking too much?


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## GunsOfNavarone

tcarrington said:


> My G0602 with the fixed 4 position tool hold did NOT allow for 1/2 inch tools. You can cut or grind off the bottoms (or tops) or just go with 3/8". I recommend the latter. I got my QCTP from Shars and have been very satisfied. It repeats excellently which is the main reason for me. You might check PM for a carbide insert set for your lathe. They have a 3/8" with inserts for both ferrous and non-ferrous (one way to describe it).


Very startnge. I purchased 3/8" tools, but the manual says up to 1/2" tools. I'll have to screenshot it. Maybe it's 31/64"? Lol..


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## GunsOfNavarone

So here is the point from the manual of tool size....


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## jdedmon91

GunsOfNavarone said:


> Everything you said is completely unacceptable. I mean the equipment isn't free, just affordable. I think expecting the exact opposite of your experiance(s) isn't asking too much?



The thing is I had a AXA import on my smaller lathe and it didn’t have that problem. 

Phase ll is a bit more expensive than the bottom feeder brands. Never tried Shars or one of the larger dealers. I’d hope their products would be better. 

In my case I thought all wedge type could be changed the center screw to adjust them, like the AXA I had on the Lathemaster. But the eBay special wasn’t that way. Since I done had cash in a replacement BXA wedge it was easier to move the handle. Since I do make videos I did put it on this video 






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## GunsOfNavarone

macardoso said:


> I was just responding to a similar post a few days ago. Here were my suggestions...
> 
> I just tooled up a slightly larger 12x36 lathe. After a few months of using it, here are my thoughts.
> 
> Used all the time:
> -Swiss Type test indication (0.0005") and flexible mag base. This is a must have. You don't need to spend a fortune.
> -1/2" keyless drill chuck and MT arbor to match tailstock. Don't buy bigger than 1/2" right now.
> -Quick change tool post (CDCO tool makes a cheap but nice one)
> -4 jaw chuck. Must have for any accurate work where you must pick up existing features or requires back work.
> -Basic OD turning tools and a few boring bars (I use indexable carbide, but most will point you to HSS, you decide)
> -Measuring tools, get some calipers, telescoping bore gages, micrometers as big as you expect to turn (0-3" to start maybe?), and the test indicator stated above. Your work is only as good as you can measure. You don't need super name brand stuff, but I would recommend buying new, or at least buying standards to check your used instruments.
> 
> Used only a little:
> -Dead center
> -Live center
> 
> Haven't used and probably might never need:
> -Faceplate
> -Headstock center
> -turning dogs
> 
> I love Shars tool company (out of Illinois). They import all their stuff, but it seems to be better quality than most imports (plus they will replace anything which doesn't meet your quality standards). They're pretty inexpensive too.
> 
> IMO, there is a a difference in buying junk, midrange, and production quality stuff.  Don't waste your money on the junk, but don't go crazy on the tooling cost, unless you intend to start production runs.  The nicer, import stuff works great and will last many years.


a lot of great info in this! I am very happy i came across this site, no doubt that a good chunk of my earliest learning will be directly from conversations with you all...I'm excited and a bit nervous if I'm honest!


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## Janderso

I bought the Phase II set. I have added some extra Shars BXA tool holders.
Very pleased with them. The BXA fits my 13" South Bend.


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## GunsOfNavarone

Oh boy JD! A good old country boy with a lot of machines and machining skills?? I wish you were my neighbor! I enjoy just watching the videos, and I don't care to critique your video skills, I just struggled to hear in parts, need a microphone close to your mouth so the machines don't drown you out...I wanna learn something! Also, there's 20 years olds making 500k A MONTH on their videos....you NEVER know! Maybe....unintended consequences???


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## jdedmon91

GunsOfNavarone said:


> Oh boy JD! A good old country boy with a lot of machines and machining skills?? I wish you were my neighbor! I enjoy just watching the videos, and I don't care to critique your video skills, I just struggled to hear in parts, need a microphone close to your mouth so the machines don't drown you out...I wanna learn something! Also, there's 20 years olds making 500k A MONTH on their videos....you NEVER know! Maybe....unintended consequences???



Yep 20 year olds making a fortune. They are lucky 

I have been using a external mike lately to help with the sound issues. From what I understand and see from other creators wireless microphones can be problematic. Maybe soon on a retirement budget I can up grade. Sound and voice have been a priority of mine hopefully that is improving as I get better with my video equipment. Thanks 


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## GunsOfNavarone

Ok, so I'm not so much ready to make a t nut yet but, putting my new cutting tools in my 4 way post, they are about an 1/8" low. I have no idea how they will sit in the new post, but that will be a lot easier to adjust. What is anyone using to get the correct height? I'm so psyched to get cutting but EVERYTHING is so involved and time consuming, after a week in, I'm just past break in and oil change. I'm keeping patience but MAN!


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## royesses

GunsOfNavarone said:


> Ok, so I'm not so much ready to make a t nut yet but, putting my new cutting tools in my 4 way post, they are about an 1/8" low. I have no idea how they will sit in the new post, but that will be a lot easier to adjust. What is anyone using to get the correct height? I'm so psyched to get cutting but EVERYTHING is so involved and time consuming, after a week in, I'm just past break in and oil change. I'm keeping patience but MAN!



Use shims under the tool. One way is to purchase a cheap set of feeler gauges at HF or  an auto parts store and remove the gauges from the holder.

Roy


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## rambin

depending on what lathe you have you may find the proper t post nut on ebay, I know ive seen someone manufacturing the southbend/atlas/logan  tnuts on there.  I know you have grizzly but may be worth a shot as this is a very common mod


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## GunsOfNavarone

Actually my first project is that T-nut. I have the width & thickness where they should be, just don’t (easily) have a way to cut the 2 steps yet. I know I can cut the step round (Dutchman?) but that just seems to be a place chips will collect. Maybe I’ll give up and just cut the rest on the lathe, maybe I’ll hit up someone in the “do me a favor” forum!


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## jdedmon91

GunsOfNavarone said:


> Actually my first project is that T-nut. I have the width & thickness where they should be, just don’t (easily) have a way to cut the 2 steps yet. I know I can cut the step round (Dutchman?) but that just seems to be a place chips will collect. Maybe I’ll give up and just cut the rest on the lathe, maybe I’ll hit up someone in the “do me a favor” forum!



Are you using rectangular stock? From your description it reads that way. You can just align the rectangular true in a 4 jaw and turn the round step. 

My advice would be to just find a piece of bar stock and make a complete round T nut since you don’t have a good way to modify the universal T nut at the present. 

If I wasn’t on vacation and not near my shop until a few days I’d offer to just milk one out. But it would be next week before I could start on one 


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## Winegrower

This is why if you have a lathe, you need a mill.  If you have a mill, you need a lathe.


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## GunsOfNavarone

Yeah, I tried just kind of laying out the t-nut in different chuck/jaws/spaced configurations. I don't see how to do the Dutchman cut in this without collision. I'll see if I can hire someone here to mill mine down...you are very spot on WineGrower. After the mill it will be the CNC upgrade as well....


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## ScrapMetal

Just an FYI - you can make a nut for your QTCP only using the lathe.  Here is one I made one my SB 11" before I bought my mill...

Stock held in 4-jaw and "facing"/cutting it to width:











Marked out the width of the slot:






Shimmed up with a 1-2-3 block and cutting for the slot:





Ready to cut to the proper "depth":





Hope that helps,

-Ron


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## GunsOfNavarone

Ron, that's awesome! It's that step where you have the 1-2-3 block shimming the t-nut out that's super hairy. I don't see how to pull that off without collision. Perhaps now that I see that may not be as crazy and dangerous as I thought it was, I'll give it a whirl.
Thank everyone for the advice and offers to help!


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## TerryH

I do not want to hijack GON's thread but can someone explain to me why one wouldn't just re-drill and tap the existing t nut to fit the QCTP stud instead of milling a new one? I understand the normal QCTP stud to be 14mm x 1.5 which is larger than the original stud. I'm obviously missing something here and trying to learn. Thanks in advance.


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## mickri

Something that I have done when needing a T nut is to use a carriage bolt.  The flats typically need a little cleanup with a file to fit the slot and grind flats on the round edge to fit also.  Sometimes the head also needs to be flattened to fit.  Not as elegant as a T nut but it gets the job done.  Only takes a couple of minutes.


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## GunsOfNavarone

TerryH said:


> I do not want to hijack GON's thread but can someone explain to me why one wouldn't just re-drill and tap the existing t nut to fit the QCTP stud instead of milling a new one? I understand the normal QCTP stud to be 14mm x 1.5 which is larger than the original stud. I'm obviously missing something here and trying to learn. Thanks in advance.


For sure let someone seasoned answer this, but there can't be any reason why the stock t-nut couldn't be used. Truth be told, it is a much more complete fit than the blank sent to me with QCTP, it's a bit short. Ultimately you are machining the blank to be as close to original as possible. It wouldn't be logical, but once I tap this stock one, the old is useless unless I make a new one....but yeah, why wouldn't anyone to backwards unless you buy cheap Chinese junk that doesn't have any consistancy..


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## TerryH

GunsOfNavarone said:


> For sure let someone seasoned answer this, but there can't be any reason why the stock t-nut couldn't be used. Truth be told, it is a much more complete fit than the blank sent to me with QCTP, it's a bit short. Ultimately you are machining the blank to be as close to original as possible. It wouldn't be logical, but once I tap this stock one, the old is useless unless I make a new one....but yeah, why wouldn't anyone to backwards unless you buy cheap Chinese junk that doesn't have any consistancy..



Replacement is available from Grizzly for $4. 

http://www.grizzly.com/parts/TOOL-REST-SLIDE-PLATE/P0602222


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## GunsOfNavarone

Man Ron! I tried mocking that setup with 1-2-3 blocks and it is a mess! Like 3mm hanging on to that t-nut for dear life! With the tool post and dead center in there, it's like 6 kids putting their hands into the candy bar to fight over the last piece of candy....DEAR LORD!


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## GunsOfNavarone

TerryH said:


> Replacement is available from Grizzly for $4.
> 
> http://www.grizzly.com/parts/TOOL-REST-SLIDE-PLATE/P0602222


 yes, but with the new tariff, it's 1its $167.50! J/k, thanks for finding that..


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## TerryH

GunsOfNavarone said:


> yes, but with the new tariff, it's 1its $167.50! J/k, thanks for finding that..



Hahahaha...don't say that out loud. It might just be.

PS with my G0752 coming to my shop in the next few days I have researched everything on these lathes to death.


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## GunsOfNavarone

Seriously, I ORDERED the G0602 and it was going to be a few weeks. After about 2 I decided to just upgrade to the 602Z (with DRO) the next day the base 602 went up to the DRO price due to the tariff. Sucks because i still have to purchase a mill.


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## GunsOfNavarone

Ok, got half that step cut into it.....would have NEVER guessed this is a "safe" working distance. I'll let you know how it turns out. One thing I'm seeing, the collar around hole doesn't appear to be a tight 90 off the boss. I'm using the 90* tool, but I have the tool compound at about 60 degrees. The tool post has four locking points (not arbitrary like a QCTP) For me to get it at a 90 from surfsce, if need to turn the compound flat and then top hand wheel hits lower compound hand wheel. So much to learn...


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## ScrapMetal

GunsOfNavarone said:


> Man Ron! I tried mocking that setup with 1-2-3 blocks and it is a mess! Like 3mm hanging on to that t-nut for dear life! With the tool post and dead center in there, it's like 6 kids putting their hands into the candy bar to fight over the last piece of candy....DEAR LORD!



Yeah, it's a little "tight" in there and takes a bit of "creative finagling".  Even though your tool post has only four locking points is it possible for you to use the the compound to change your angle a bit?

It looks a bit iffy but the piece isn't going anywhere, thanks to the live center in the tailstock and you're using two jaws to hold the 1-2-3 block and the other two to box in the future t-nut.  All in all, it's pretty solid.

Oh, and take some pictures!  Pics are like crack to the forum guys. 

-Ron


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## GunsOfNavarone

It's done....I think pics of this sort of project are probably over done, but I'll put one up. HUGE QUESTION: Do I remove the stock detent pin? That seems like a no brainer, no?


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## GunsOfNavarone

Short video to show fit....I don't know how snug it HAS to be, but stock had two lock down grub screws, so I figured as little slop as possible?


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## Winegrower

TerryH said:


> I do not want to hijack GON's thread but can someone explain to me why one wouldn't just re-drill and tap the existing t nut to fit the QCTP stud instead of milling a new one? I understand the normal QCTP stud to be 14mm x 1.5 which is larger than the original stud. I'm obviously missing something here and trying to learn. Thanks in advance.



There are a huge variety of sizes of compounds and the attendant sizes of t-nuts.   If what you got with the QCTP fits, sure, drill and retap.  You might get lucky.   I never did.


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## jdedmon91

GunsOfNavarone said:


> Short video to show fit....I don't know how snug it HAS to be, but stock had two lock down grub screws, so I figured as little slop as possible?



Neat job congratulations on the first project, they get easier from here


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ScrapMetal

I don't believe the grub screws are necessary but they certainly wouldn't hurt either.

You could always proceed without and if it is a problem add the grub screws.  Your call.

Nice job btw.  I am personally fond of this project as it shows how the lathe can be much more versatile than just "making round stuff".

-Ron


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## GunsOfNavarone

Winegrower said:


> There are a huge variety of sizes of compounds and the attendant sizes of t-nuts.   If what you got with the QCTP fits, sure, drill and retap.  You might get lucky.   I never did.


I think he means retap the machine's stock t-nut so the aftermarket post would fit in it. I'm hindsight, that's probably best/easiest. I just need to have the stock setup for some OCD reason.


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