# New Project. Chuck Back Plate.



## Hukshawn (Dec 20, 2016)

So, I bought a 6" 4 jaw chuck. Quite happy with that. Issue... the store does not supply a back plate. Even a blank back plate. Crazy... and my other avenues in which I purchase equipment only have a 5"... looks like I'm making my own.
Fun situation... I have a 5" 3 jaw chuck and zero way to grab my stock. I bought a 7"x7"X1" slice of hot rolled plate steel. I did some reading just now and they say cast is better.... but, this is what I have. I asked the guy at the metal supply his opinion and this is what he came up with. And they are a full out machining shop.

So here's my plan, please critique it.

I have a 1" thick piece. My lathe spindle is 1 1/2" 8tpi. The shoulder to the tip is just less than 1". So I think I'm fine on thickness. Would be happier thicker, but again, I'm using what was avialable and affordable.
I am going to centre drill on the drill press to the largest hole I am capable of, (which I believe is 3/4"). Make a jig to mount this between centers on the lathe and carefully hog out about 1/2" and form a rough collar where the threads will be. Just taking enough material off to allow me to then grab that collar with the chuck jaws. Then bore out the spindle hole and thread it. Mount it on the spindle and from there basically machine the final profile of the back plate to my satisfaction... i feel doing the final machining with the plate mounted on the spindle gives me the best hope of being true with a minimal runout.
in my relatively inexperienced mind, (aside from the safety issues of slinging this chunk of steel across the garage...) i think this works...

Thoughts!?

I'll deal with the fact that the mounting bolt holes are not thru holes so I can't use a drill hole punch, later. I have to measure and scribe and hope for the best or make the holes big enough to... essentially... throw the hot dog down the hallway... and do the final truing with the chuck mounted with a dial gauge and tighten once satisfied.


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## MozamPete (Dec 20, 2016)

I have a similar plan but I think I will be able to hold my blank in my 4 jaw (which is larger than my existing 3 jaw) to bore and thread it, but then would mount it on the spindle to do the majority of the machining similar to your plan. 
So I say go for it and let me know if it works .  But seriously I would also so be interested in the the professionals opionon of this approach and any pitfalls to watch out for.


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## Hukshawn (Dec 20, 2016)

That is precisely why I bought the larger 4 jaw. I plan on building a milling jig. So need the 4 jaw to hold erregilar stock. Also bought the angle plate today. The Christmas break should be fun. Several good projects... pending my wife gives me the time...


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## 682bear (Dec 21, 2016)

I'd say you have a good plan... I just machined one for a 9 inch chuck this morning on my old South Bend.

I did the final machining with the plate mounted on the spindle also.

-Bear


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## Joncooey (Dec 21, 2016)

When I did mine, I bored out a piece of round stock for the threads (Boss) and then counter-sunk it into the plate and welded it.  Allowed for more threads in the round bar stock;  say 2 inches.  Make sure everything is as true as you can get it when you weld and then true up the rest on the lathe.


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## brino (Dec 21, 2016)

Hukshawn said:


> i feel doing the final machining with the plate mounted on the spindle gives me the best hope of being true with a minimal runout.



Agreed!

One small issue is how square with the plate your first drilled hole is. Once you put it on an arbor or mandrel I think you will notice some "wobble" of the face of the plate. However, when you complete the (possibly interrupted) facing cut, you can find the new square plate within. Just be aware that you lose some thickness.

Once bored and threaded you can mount it on the spindle and take a final facing cut to make the big face square.
One key is to get the shoulder that registers against the lathe spindle to be square to the threaded bore. 

It can be tough finding an appropriate lathe speed for facing. You're really aiming for a particular sfpm (surface feet per minute) based on the cutter and material. 
However since the diameter changes so drastically from the centre to the outside rim of the plate the sfpm changes too.

-brino


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## Hukshawn (Dec 21, 2016)

brino said:


> Agreed!
> 
> One small issue is how square with the plate your first drilled hole is. Once you put it on an arbor or mandrel I think you will notice some "wobble" of the face of the plate. However, when you complete the (possibly interrupted) facing cut, you can find the new square plate within. Just be aware that you lose some thickness.
> 
> ...



Yeah exactly, I wasn't going to rely on turning between centers to get me anywhere near true it was merely to get enough material off to allow the Chuck Jaws to grab the collar. That would allow me to thread it and then I can mount it on the spindle and do all the final truing.
I should be able to face both the front and back this way, just take the back plate off and spin it around and screw back on, and face that side.

Do you think hot rolled was a good choice?


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## f350ca (Dec 21, 2016)

Im not an expert on threaded spindles, guess the one on my indexing head has one though. You said you measured the thread as just under 1 inch, but you need to machine a tapered recess for the shoulder just behind the thread on the spindle. The chuck centres on that shoulder, the thread only holds it there. Im thinking your plate isn't thick enough for the full thread and shoulder.
I'd try using you're three jaw as a face plate. Remove the jaws and grind bolt heads to fit into the slots, same idea as t-slots. Then drill 3 holes in your blank to bolt it on. Drill, bore, thread and cut the bore for the shoulder with it there. You can face it from the new bolt circle to the centre and clean up the rest after its mounted on the spindle. With the bore done mount it on the spindle and do your machining for the chuck mount.

Greg


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## Hukshawn (Dec 21, 2016)

f350ca said:


> Im not an expert on threaded spindles, guess the one on my indexing head has one though. You said you measured the thread as just under 1 inch, but you need to machine a tapered recess for the shoulder just behind the thread on the spindle. The chuck centres on that shoulder, the thread only holds it there. Im thinking your plate isn't thick enough for the full thread and shoulder.
> I'd try using you're three jaw as a face plate. Remove the jaws and grind bolt heads to fit into the slots, same idea as t-slots. Then drill 3 holes in your blank to bolt it on. Drill, bore, thread and cut the bore for the shoulder with it there. You can face it from the new bolt circle to the centre and clean up the rest after its mounted on the spindle. With the bore done mount it on the spindle and do your machining for the chuck mount.
> 
> Greg



I did account foe the shoulder. From the shoulder to the end of the spindle is just less than 1". Even still, there is room beyond the back plate inside the chuck if the thread sticks out a bit. Shouldn't cause any issues, you're right, as long as the shoulders seat fully to align. 

I do like the mounting to the 3 jaw chuck idea tho, at least to bore and thread. Best case scenario to get a good straight thread. Straighter than trying to turn between centers then trying to grab the collar with the chucks. And since I don't have parallels, seating true would be tricky.


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## f350ca (Dec 21, 2016)

I use HSS tool blanks for small parallels all the time. You have to check the Chinese ones for size, they vary.

Greg


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## Hukshawn (Dec 21, 2016)

f350ca said:


> I use HSS tool blanks for small parallels all the time. You have to check the Chinese ones for size, they vary.
> 
> Greg


Ya I've done that before. Didn't think of it this time...
Actually, I'm getting 4 nice, brand new 3/8 hss blank tool bits. Was planning on making a nice set of lathe tools for the qctp


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## RJSakowski (Dec 21, 2016)

Unless you really want the thrill of threading and fitting a back plate to your spindle, there are a number of sources for 1-1/2"-8 tpi threaded blanks.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-X-1-1-2-8-TPI-Back-Plate/T10098 for example.


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## Hukshawn (Dec 23, 2016)

Okay... here we go...
I hogged off the corners to save time and work. 
I drilled the center hole, drilled and tapped holes and mounted the plate on my 5" 3 jaw back plate. 
Faced it and started rounding it out... slow process... the material is hard. I have a cobalt 3/8" tool bit and I burnt it out. Changed to a carbide and so far so good. 

What is the best tooling to use on hot rolled? 

...when I put my band saw away... the shelf in the cabinet fell down..... I swiftly solved that problem by quickly and firmly closing the door!


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## Hukshawn (Dec 23, 2016)

What kind of speeds should I be focusing on with hot rolled? Faster or slower?


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## 682bear (Dec 23, 2016)

You should be turning fairly slowly with that interrupted cut... once it cleans up, you can probably bump the speed up a little. The interrupted cut combined with too much speed can be rough on any kind of tooling.


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## Hukshawn (Dec 23, 2016)

I'm not home now, but I think it's about 700 rpm. That second pulley on front gears seems to be my go to speed.


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## f350ca (Dec 23, 2016)

Under 200 rpm would be more in line for HSS, till it got round I'd be at about 100. Carbide will want faster, but not till you get it round.
I prefer HSS for cold roll, if its harder then switch to carbide.

Greg


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## Hukshawn (Dec 23, 2016)

I'm at 700ish rpm using a big 1/2" carbide bit and it seems to be handling it reasonably well. If I try to cut too deep it stalls the lathe. So, it's a long slow laborious process that's making one hell of a mess... I'm considering rigging up my shop vac and just sucking the chips off as they cut... but that'll probably start a fire inside the vacuum. Lol


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## Hukshawn (Dec 26, 2016)

Sweet Jesus... this is the slowest process in the world... 
I have the overall diameter turned down and now I'm facing off the material to form the collar that butts into the spindle face. I'm planing on taking off about .500". Turning at about 125 rpm with a 1/2" carbide bit. The max it'll let me take off in a pass is about .030". Slooooowwwwww.....


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## Fortis64 (Dec 27, 2016)

Patience Patience ...... I turned down a 8" od  1 1/2" thick plate that was about 3/4 " out of round after it had been cut with a torch  . And i also just finished making a back plate for my 6" 4 jaw out of cast iron messy job lol. Once you've knocked the high points off speed up the lathe and use carbide tool with a new cutter make a world of difference .  Threading and getting the register right will be the challenge for you . I actually made a dummy tread and register on a bit of stock so i could test fit as i was going along . Threads are important but you can get away with being a tad lose on the thread but it's the register that's the important bit to get spot on. 

Good luck 

Sean


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## Hukshawn (Dec 27, 2016)

Progress. 

Boring out the center hole.

My lovely wife bought me a new CCMT boring bar for Christmas (my request, how the hell would she know otherwise?) Stupid me, wrote 3/8" on the list instead of 5/8". Oops... maybe I'll use it for smaller holes if I ever need to.


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## Hukshawn (Dec 28, 2016)

I'd call this a flaming success so far....


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## Hukshawn (Dec 28, 2016)

I got told to come inside... I guess 1am IS pretty late......


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## Fortis64 (Dec 28, 2016)

Doing this in steel would've been a toughy .... good job ... Funnily enough I gave my wife a couple of side notes too nothing ever came of it .....


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## Hukshawn (Dec 28, 2016)

This is hot rolled steel.


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## 12bolts (Dec 28, 2016)

Just depends on your perspective. 





Hukshawn said:


> ......I guess 1am IS pretty late......


 In 6 months time it wil stil be daylight then wont it?

Cheers Phil


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## Hukshawn (Dec 28, 2016)

Okay ladies.
I'm done machining the back plate. Really nice fit into the back of the chuck.
Next step is to drill the bolt holes. However, the bolt holes in the chuck are not through holes so I cannot use a center drill hole punch. What's a good method to scribe out those blind holes into the back plate?


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## brino (Dec 28, 2016)

I'd use dowel centres, like these:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=44995&cat=1,180,42288

Basically a little plug that fits the hole tight and has a centre point.
Easy to make with scrap on the lathe.
Really do not need to be hardened for single use.

-brino


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## Hukshawn (Dec 28, 2016)

Oh great idea! I have a bunch of those for wood. I can make up a few for this. Right on.


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## brino (Dec 28, 2016)

I was trying to find some references either on this site or a tool catalog to a similar product, but could not.
They are basically a piece of threaded rod, but with a centre point on one end and a allen-key hex hole on the other end.
(that allen drive won't help with your blind holes though)
They are used exactly like the dowel centres, but would actually thread into the chuck holes, and be a little adjustable by changing the insertion depth.
-brino


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## rwm (Dec 28, 2016)

What are the 3 holes you already have drilled? I think the holes in the chuck could be through holes if you take the chuck apart? Would that be easier and more precise? I'm gonna assume you don't have a rotary table? Another idea if you know (or can measure) the bolt hole circle diameter is to machine a very shallow groove in the back plate that you have measured out from center on the lathe. Center punch your holes in that groove. Then you know that the radius is dead on.
I personally would take the chuck apart and use the housing with transfer punches to mark the holes. You could even use the chuck as a drill guide but be careful not to mess it up.
Here's one way I did it using an old back plate as a drill guide for a new one.



Robert


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## Hukshawn (Dec 28, 2016)

Could use just a set screw sharpened to a point. 
What I will likely do is make a short drill hole punch. I will likely make one. Punch a hole, drill it out, put the bolt in and do the opposite side etc. I will oversize them appropriately to build in some run-out adjustability for the chuck later on. This is all home made, I'm sure it's not perfect. However, I put the dial indicator on the face while it's screwed onto the spindle and its within .001". Not bad...


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## Hukshawn (Dec 28, 2016)

rwm said:


> What are the 3 holes you already have drilled? I think the holes in the chuck could be through holes if you take the chuck apart? Would that be easier and more precise? I'm gonna assume you don't have a rotary table? Another idea if you know (or can measure) the bolt hole circle diameter is to machine a very shallow groove in the back plate that you have measured out from center on the lathe. Center punch your holes in that groove. Then you know that the radius is dead on.
> I personally would take the chuck apart and use the housing with transfer punches to mark the holes. You could even use the chuck as a drill guide but be careful not to mess it up.
> Here's one way I did it using an old back plate as a drill guide for a new one.
> 
> ...


No, no rotary table. No, the chuck does not come apart. The holes you see line up with my 5" chuck. I mounted this plate to it to get the initial shape hogged out. All those are now are nuisance holes.
I was likely going to measure it all out, but I was sure someone had a better, less room for error, method.


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## f350ca (Dec 28, 2016)

These would work, I assume the holes in the chuck are threaded. For transferring blind holes.
http://www.penntoolco.com/precise-transfer-screw-sets/

Greg


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## Hukshawn (Dec 29, 2016)

Presto! 
All done and mounted. The side body of the chuck near the back plate run-out is .001". I can get a 3/4" end mill to run at .0005" run-out. Hoowweeeveer... on the face of the chuck I have a .007 run-out. I will have to go back through everything and find that. It causes a mild vibration. Gotta find and eliminate it. I assume it might be a chip or a burr somewhere in my backplate bolt holes. Because when I metered out the back plate after the last pass it's run-out was negligible. 

Having never used a 4 jaw chuck before it appears there is definitely an art to centering a piece in 4 independent jaws. Took me a few mins to remember whether I need to screw in or out specific jaws to obtain a reading I desire.


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## Tozguy (Dec 29, 2016)

Shawn, good work. Thanks for bringing us along with you.


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## 4GSR (Dec 29, 2016)

Heimann transfer screws!!! 

Brino, thought I'd help you out a little.


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## rwm (Dec 29, 2016)

Glad you got it mounted. Sorry, I did not realize it was a 4 jaw with a one piece body.
R


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## Xnerd (Dec 30, 2016)

Can I junk phone in and ask a related question? 

I have a 3 jaw Chuck coming ups in the morning. 
I have a 7.25" used backplate that was a failed attempt to fix very old chucks runout issue. 

I would like to use this for the little 6 inch chuck that is coming as it is still new,  unmarked and.. .80 thick over all. 

My problem is that the old mounting holes will indicate up being right at the edge of the new chuck.  Just barely!
Csn I turn this backplate down 100 thou smaller then the new chuck?   I looked at all of my chucks and it seems like every one of them is a little larger than thier mated back plate... 

Is this the way it is done typically? 

I really don't want to wait to get another new blank BP and trash this one simple because there is a 16th inch over lap with the old mounting holes. 


Anyone? 

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## rwm (Dec 30, 2016)

If you don't mind how it looks you could just turn it down intersecting the extra holes. Most back plates match the diameter of the chuck but this is not mandatory. The back plate can be a little smaller or even theoretically larger. The registration boss is the critical diameter. Just plan out where the new mounting holes will fall. You don't want a counterbore extending through the O.D. of the back plate. If you look at my pic above you will see how close the counterbore is to the edge. Counterbore is not mandatory but it is safer to have the screw heads recessed.
Robert


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## Xnerd (Dec 30, 2016)

rwm said:


> If you don't mind how it looks you could just turn it down intersecting the extra holes. Most back plates match the diameter of the chuck but this is not mandatory. The back plate can be a little smaller or even theoretically larger. The registration boss is the critical diameter.
> Robert


Thank you very much for the fast response.

I assumed that was the case as I tend to overthink everything. However being so new to Machining I figured I better get a qualified response from someone that knows more than me. The funny thing is I have for other Chucks and every single one of them the backplate is noticeably smaller then the Chuck itself. That should have been my first clue LOL.

The Chuck should be here anytime now I'm getting very excited LOL. I just got done meticulously measuring the intrinsic runout on my spindle which was barely readable perhaps one ten thousandths if that. I don't know if that's really high or low before a lathe built in 1946 I'll take it.

This will be my second backplate that I've ever made but again the last one was unsuccessful because the scroll itself ended up being the problem. So I guess I can't really say that I failed at making the backplate it just did not solve the problem LOL

Thank you for allowing me to briefly hijack this thread

Jeff


Xnerd said:


> Can I junk phone in and ask a related question?
> 
> I have a 3 jaw Chuck coming ups in the morning.
> I have a 7.25" used backplate that was a failed attempt to fix very old chucks runout issue.
> ...




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## Xnerd (Dec 30, 2016)

rwm said:


> If you don't mind how it looks you could just turn it down intersecting the extra holes. Most back plates match the diameter of the chuck but this is not mandatory. The back plate can be a little smaller or even theoretically larger. The registration boss is the critical diameter. Just plan out where the new mounting holes will fall. You don't want a counterbore extending through the O.D. of the back plate. If you look at my pic above you will see how close the counterbore is to the edge. Counterbore is not mandatory but it is safer to have the screw heads recessed.
> Robert


Here's another quick question. I jumped into this Chuck rather hastily before researching a great deal. I needed a 3 jaw badly so I just went ahead and purchased it. I chose the one with the removable two piece Jaws. Everyone says you'll be glad you did. But I want to know why what is the advantage of these other than quick inverting?

Thanks in advance

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## brino (Dec 30, 2016)

Xnerd said:


> I chose the one with the removable two piece Jaws. Everyone says you'll be glad you did. But I want to know why what is the advantage of these other than quick inverting?



With two piece jaws you can make your own sacrificial soft jaws to hold weird shaped items and simply cut right into them when machining the work piece. Good choice.

-brino


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## Xnerd (Dec 30, 2016)

Does money post repeat like 12 times to everyone else I hate the software this tab touch software I am going to uninstall it for the second time the only thing is if I use a browser this forum is unacceptable to me it is nothing but advertisements that fill the text boxes so you can type in them it's some kind of weird forum bug. It was so bad on my desktop PC I did it clean install of Windows to see if it could have been a virus or something but nope same thing anyway I apologize if my post actually did repeat this many times

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## brino (Dec 30, 2016)

Xnerd said:


> Does money post repeat like 12 times to everyone else



I only see a single copy of your post.
I have only ever used Firefox on Win7 to view and post here........and it works great!
-brino


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## Xnerd (Dec 30, 2016)

Here's another question please forgive me alright I'll turn the radius perfectly and by the way those old bullet holes just disappear at the perfect size so it worked out good. But if I go to turn the back of the backplate the part that faces the headstock of course it will not thread in all the way because the spindle nose runs out of threads before it gets all the way up to the head. So how do you get that inherent wobble from the threads out of there I cannot bottom it out is typical when you put it Chuck it will buy them outright at the lathe click. And any thread has an inherent wobble to it so if I turn the thing facing the lathe it's going to have a wobble in it if I turn that wobble out its artificial do I just leave the back of the backplate alone?. I did not even think about this the first time I made one.

There's a ton of meat around the part of the backplate that protrudes with a threading in it and there's about three quarters of an inch not threaded

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## Fortis64 (Dec 30, 2016)

Good job ..... I was nervous as hell doing mine ,and i did muck it up a wee bit . Good learning experience all the same .

Sean


Hukshawn said:


> Presto!
> All done and mounted. The side body of the chuck near the back plate run-out is .001". I can get a 3/4" end mill to run at .0005" run-out. Hoowweeeveer... on the face of the chuck I have a .007 run-out. I will have to go back through everything and find that. It causes a mild vibration. Gotta find and eliminate it. I assume it might be a chip or a burr somewhere in my backplate bolt holes. Because when I metered out the back plate after the last pass it's run-out was negligible.
> 
> Having never used a 4 jaw chuck before it appears there is definitely an art to centering a piece in 4 independent jaws. Took me a few mins to remember whether I need to screw in or out specific jaws to obtain a reading I desire.





Slacken your lows  tighten your highs ... and set the jaws by measuring the work piece and get the jaws near size ..


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## JR49 (Dec 30, 2016)

Xnerd said:


> But if I go to turn the back of the backplate the part that faces the headstock of course it will not thread in all the way because the spindle nose runs out of threads before it gets all the way up to the head


     Find a short piece of pipe with an ID big enough to fit over the spindle threads and butt against the vertical part of the spindle register, and just long enough to butt the chuck up against it before running out of threads. (a spacer) The pipe doesn't have to be a tight fit radially (spelling?) but the ends must be perfectly concentric.  Hope this helps, and hope I used the word concentric correctly,   JR49


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## Xnerd (Dec 30, 2016)

JR49 said:


> Find a short piece of pipe with an ID big enough to fit over the spindle threads and butt against the vertical part of the spindle register, and just long enough to butt the chuck up against it before running out of threads. (a spacer) The pipe doesn't have to be a tight fit radially (spelling?) but the ends must be perfectly concentric.  Hope this helps, and hope I used the word concentric correctly,   JR49


I was thinking about doing that very thing and I was thinking of my head where is there a space you're big enough around here I'll probably have to make one. But the thing is I was thinking it doesn't matter if there's a face wobble in the back side of the backplate as long as it part that is connected to the truck is absolutely perfectly flat and parallel to the axis Centerline. So what I'm going to do to prove my theory is I'm going to complete the chuck with the wobble in the bag played in the perfectly flat front I'll make sure that I don't use the back as reference for anything going forward and then if I have wobble in the end I will back up. I'll make a spacer square off the back of the backplate reface the front of the thing and call it good.

Thank you for the help.

By the way I think concentric is when two cylinders or cylindrical objects are in perfect alignment I'm on the same plane? Please correct me if I'm wrong someone.

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## brino (Dec 30, 2016)

JR49 said:


> The pipe doesn't have to be a tight fit radially (spelling?) but the ends must be perfectly concentric.



I think you mean square.



Xnerd said:


> By the way I think concentric is when two cylinders or cylindrical objects are in perfect alignment I'm on the same plane? Please correct me if I'm wrong someone.



Really, it's when two circular features have the same centre.

-brino


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## JR49 (Dec 30, 2016)

You are correct, Xnerd, the back side doesn't need to be perfect.  I made the "spacer" for mine because I also needed to cut the threads in the back plate.  JR49
EDIT: just saw the 2 posts above, and made me think---We (the forum) should have a thread, or whatever where can discuss the meanings of lots of the commonly used words by machinist


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## Xnerd (Dec 30, 2016)

That's a great idea Jr 49. It's always so frustrating working with subpar measuring tools I have Starrett indicators but my damn calipers are crap. So here I am taking 10000 at a time and I think I went a little heavy on the last 10,000 and it fits just perfectly but not quite as tightly as I wouldn't normally like to see. I can turn it with some effort. It will not move from side to side but I don't have to press it together I like to see it nug to the point we're either a small tap with a brass hammer or the hardware is needed to get the two halves mated.

When all is said and done it's a three jaw Chuck anyway. If I'm close to one or two thousandth run out I will be happy as a clam. I got so tired of just having a bunch of 4 jaw Chuck then I just had to break down and buy a 3 jaw. It'll be so nice to turn all the little piddly ass crap that doesn't need high tolerance without fiddling with an indicator.

I have got quite fast that indicating my work I have to admit. Which is nice but a little forethought with how you're going to turn something a 3 jaw Chuck is just nice to have.

I'm in the process of making a bunch of 10 millimeter by 1.5 millimeter transfer screws. In all their wisdom the manufacture decided that it needed 6 mounting screws. I'm tempted to just use 3 but I know I won't. I'll break down and use the other 3 as well it seems overkill for a 6 inch Chuck

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## Hukshawn (Dec 31, 2016)

Colour me done. 
The .007" run out was in the face of the backplate. Not sure how that came about but was promptly cut out with a light cut. The side and face run out are both .0005". 
Done and done... 
Now onto this grinder, and there's an er32 collet collar in the mail. When it arrives it'll be a collet barrel nut/chuck to get me started on providing some milling capabilities.


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## Xnerd (Dec 31, 2016)

Done .........
Thanks for all of the advice!
.00013   VERY HAPPY! 
By the way I only used three of those bolt there's no way I'm putting 6 bolt holes in a 6 inch 3 jaw Chuck. 3 inches worth of thread is holding that on and it's fine

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## Xnerd (Dec 31, 2016)

Xnerd said:


> Done .........
> Thanks for all of the advice!
> .00013   VERY HAPPY!
> By the way I only used three of those bolt there's no way I'm putting 6 bolt holes in a 6 inch 3 jaw Chuck. 3 inches worth of thread is holding that on and it's fine
> ...


One too many 0's there lol



brino said:


> I only see a single copy of your post.
> I have only ever used Firefox on Win7 to view and post here........and it works great!
> -brino





Hukshawn said:


> Colour me done.
> The .007" run out was in the face of the backplate. Not sure how that came about but was promptly cut out with a light cut. The side and face run out are both .0005".
> Done and done...
> Now onto this grinder, and there's an er32 collet collar in the mail. When it arrives it'll be a collet barrel nut/chuck to get me started on providing some milling capabilities.




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## Xnerd (Dec 31, 2016)

I honestly do not understand why I can't edit my post I have to reply to my own post to straighten everything out. I'm going to try and get Firefox for my tablet and see if it works that way I've tried everything else.

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## Xnerd (Jan 2, 2017)

By the way I only used three of the six Mountain screws and all is well I don't understand why they wanted six mounting points on this little 6 inch Chuck. I have an 8 inch Chuck that only has three positions as well. This thing is solid as it gets if anybody has any reason why they should for 3 more holes in this thing please let me know

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