# Replacement motor recommendation



## cpd62 (Sep 1, 2013)

My Walker turner 1936 Driver line Drill press motor just burned up. The bearing probably were toast. I need to replace the motor.  I'm a bit overwhelmed by the choices (companies that is). It needs to be 1/3 or 1/2 hp, 1725 rpm and I prefer single phase.   Any thoughts on what are today's good companies. I like vintage tools but  nothing lasts forever and there are always unknowns when buying used. So I'd like to buy a new motor. 
Any recommendations?  Thanks, Christian


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## R2.0 (Sep 1, 2013)

I'm willing to bet a local motor shop could press in a set of bearings for less than you would pay for a quality motor like the one you have.


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## cpd62 (Sep 1, 2013)

R2.0 said:


> I'm willing to bet a local motor shop could press in a set of bearings for less than you would pay for a quality motor like the one you have.



I've heard the bearings on these motors are an odd size. And I'm not 100% sure the bearings are the problem. Though they don't sound right. The question is how much "better" is the 1936 motor from an average new motor?  I hear that claim often. Will I rreally notice the difference?

And do you have a recommendation for a good new motor?  For me the time it takes to find a shop ,drop it off at the shop and pick it up  has a monetary value as well. New and "mometarily expensive" may be equivalent Or more economical than "less expensive + time consuming".


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## CNC Dude (Sep 2, 2013)

But is the motor toasted or is it just making noises? Because if it is the ball bearings, and they can be replaced, that is completely different than if the brushes are gone, or if the rotor winding is shut.

Then we need to ask, is this an AC induction motor, or an universal AC? I don't know much about either (I am more of a stepper guy), but whether they can be fixed or not will depend on the motor topology. For example, a universal AC motor who has had depleted brushes can be easily fixed by changing the brushes. You should be able to find a replacement. If it is the rotor winding, you can also change all the copper wiring. Not a pleasant job, but I have seen a few individuals who prefer to revitalize an old motor than to get a new one and this is one of the things they do. Not saying this will be cheaper or better, just saying it can be done. I personally wouldn't do it, though...

If it is an induction AC motor, then I have no idea what it would take to fix it.

BTW, you will also need to know what kind of motor you have if you go with the "replacement for a new unit" route as it may be a capacitor start or a capacitor run. I think they are both different topologies and if you replace it you need to replace it the right way. You could also strip the whole electric segment and then install a completely new system in which case you can just add whatever is needed, regardless of what the old unit was. Now you can get fancy and add a BLDC or a PMSM with all sorts of nifty electronic controls. May be too much complexity, though. Just mentioning options.


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## DMS (Sep 2, 2013)

In general, McMaster won't tell you the brand of anything they sell, but everything I have purchased from them is top-notch, and they ship faster than just about anyone. Take a look at the site and see if you can find a motor that will fit. You will probably want to measure at least the shaft diameter and the mounting foot for a match. If you want to find something a bit cheaper, you can probably find a decent Baldor or other brand name on Ebay for not too much. 

As far as brand, well, I've never purchased a new motor. Never heard anybody say anything bad about Baldor though.


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## R2.0 (Sep 2, 2013)

I agree the McMaster has quality stuff, and in my experience if they don't list it, they can get it. But prepare your wallet.

Grainger is probably the best resource for motors on the internet; their online search has more options than any I've ever seen.


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## cpd62 (Sep 2, 2013)

I got the drill press pretty cheap and it's a nice heavy duty machine.  It doesn't have  a lot of speeds though.  I think I'm going pimp it out and go with a variable speed drive.  Looks like DC motors with variable speed controls might be the way to go.  Thoughts?
Christian


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## DMS (Sep 2, 2013)

Or 3phase with a VFD. You can get small 3 phase motors on Ebay pretty cheap, as lots of people pull them off and replace them with single phase.


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## Ulma Doctor (Sep 2, 2013)

does the motor have a nameplate? 
if not you could measure the mount holes and i could identify and offer a replacement ac single or 3 phase motor.

lmk if i can help out

mike)


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## cpd62 (Sep 2, 2013)

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Mike, It's so old it doesn't have anystandard NEMA nomenclature. Walker turner listed a code on the motor XA with a 4417 frame. If I could get a 3 phase 1/2 hp and a VFD then that would suit me well. I'd need a little guidance wiring it. 
Thanks,
Christian


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## Ulma Doctor (Sep 4, 2013)

Hi Christian,

if you could post a picture of the motor that may be helpful...
If you know the shaft size, and diameter of the motor that will also be helpful.
the Walker motor may not be made to NEMA specifications, but i'm willing to guess that another motor can be installed in it's place with little modification.

as always, i'm happy to assist anyway i can


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## CluelessNewB (Sep 4, 2013)

Although Walker Turner used some odd bearings in their machines many of the motors were made by KC (Kingston-Conley) and have standard bearings.  If it looks more or less like the picture below it is a KC motor.  

If it's only the bearings and/or capacitor the motor is worth fixing.  Send it 2 me!

Baldor and Leeson are decent quality motors.  Check eBay, Surplus Center  http://www.surpluscenter.com/home.asp and Northern Tool.   (On the Surplus Center motors make sure they are for "Continuous Duty" some of the motors they sell are intermittent duty, not something you want!


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## cpd62 (Sep 5, 2013)

The guy who sold me the machine for $200 bought back the motor for $80. Seems fair. I don't know if it's salvageable. If it is then good for him but I'd rather get a modern 3 phase with a VFD and step into the 21st century. It's nice to still have the stable well functioning cast iron machine. But a new motor with modern controls will be worth it. I just want to use the darn thing and be done with repairing it.


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## Ulma Doctor (Sep 5, 2013)

Hey CP,

I'll be willing to guess a 56 frame could easily be adapted to fit your needs
i'm very partial to Baldor Motors and install them 9 times out of 10 as replacement motors.
they are more expensive than the imports.
 IMHO, they rarely fail without operator abuse. and when they do fail it is generally due to bearing failure.
i have on many occasion, simply changed faulty bearings and continued service for the motor in the order of years, in rough service.
another brand that does a decent job is Lesson, although not as robust as the Baldor, but still a good quality replacement option.
Graingers has many import replacement motors that are easier on the wallet as well.

May i also offer the suggestion of buying a used 3 phase motor , breaking it down and replacing the bearings yourself and putting it back into service

there are many options available, which road do you wish to travel?


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## cpd62 (Sep 6, 2013)

Ulma Doctor said:


> Hey CP,
> 
> I'll be willing to guess a 56 frame could easily be adapted to fit your needs
> i'm very partial to Baldor Motors and install them 9 times out of 10 as replacement motors.
> ...




I ordered a new 3/4 hp baldor with a matching VFD yesterday. As long as the installation isn't too time consuming the extra cost will be offset by time saved and reliability gained. The baldor was only about $35 more than the cheaper Mexican imports. I liken a good motor to riding good strong wheels on a road or mountain bike. Makes all the difference. 
Thanks. 

I may need some advi e on hookup. For instance: is there special cable you'd recommend?  Do the VFD's usually need an enclosure?


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## Ulma Doctor (Sep 6, 2013)

the vfd doesn't need an enclosure but people do use an enclosure to protect the unit from outside contaminants and bumps from stuff moving through the shop.

as far as the cabling, i would use a good quality 14/4 output cable and use a good quality 14/3 cable input.
shielded cables are only necessary if your have anomalies created by EMF.

You made a good choice, the Baldor will last for many years to come...


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