# Logan 200 Belt Alignment



## vincent52100 (Jun 6, 2015)

Finally got back to my lathe ( have a couple vintage Honda's I'm working on) and trying to fix a couple of minor things. The belt is slipping and the adjustment is all the way out. I need to get a new belt but I also noticed that alignment between the head and countershaft is off. The counter shaft is at a slight angle to the head. It appears that the bushings where the countrshaft assembly pivots at the head assy are pretty well worn. (Picture attached) Not sure where to get replacements. I've looked at the Logan parts list and don't see them. Also I have a 4 jaw chuck and a complete 5-c collet set with blank face plates.  I'm really not sure how to get them mounted accurately. Any help would be greatly appreciated
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
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## MBfrontier (Jun 6, 2015)

Hey, vincent52100.

There should be bushings in the brackets that mount to the headstock and two pins run through either side of the countershaft bracket and headstock bracket bushings. It looks like you have a threaded rod replacing the two pins and I can't see if there are any bushings in your headstock brackets. If the bushings are worn out or missing that could be your problem. Here's a picture of my lathe showing the countershaft assembly attached to my headstock and you can see the rubber bushings on the bracket on the left side of the picture.



My bushings are just neoprene hose and rubber washers.

Let me know if I can be of further assistance.


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## Terrywerm (Jun 6, 2015)

I would simply make my own replacement bushings. Shouldn't be too hard to figure out what their dimensions should be.

Your four jaw chuck simply screws on to the 1 1/2-8 spindle nose, but 5C collets generally will not work on a 200 Logan unless you have a 5C collet chuck.


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## vincent52100 (Jun 6, 2015)

Thanks guys for the info. I'll make the bushings. The four jaw chuck isn't threaded. It only has 4 bolt holes. I have the 5-c chuck but again it's not threaded.   I do have the blank face plates.


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## Terrywerm (Jun 6, 2015)

Do you have face plates or backing plates??  There is a difference.  Backing plates are made for mounting chucks, where as faceplates are made for use when temporarily mounting a work piece so that you can turn it on the lathe. Some photos of the plates you have would be helpful.

If you have backing plates, you need to turn them to fit them to their chucks. There are threads and articles here about that process. Tubalcain also did this video on the subject, and it is very good. Have a look!


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## vincent52100 (Jun 6, 2015)

OOPS! Need to learn my terminology! They are backing plates. Thanks


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## Herk (Jun 8, 2015)

The drive assembly to headstock bushings are available from Logan http://store.lathe.com/lp-1269.html but could be easily made locally.  Check the countershaft bearings when you have the belt off.  The earlier Logans had replaceable bearings with alignment screws. Later machines don't have the adjustable countershaft bearings.  They didn't even have bushings, the shaft rode directly on the cast iron yoke.  Unless the bearings get oiled really frequently, they wear pretty fast.  This can eventually cause belt alignment issues.  I rebuilt using bronze bushing stock and new shaft from a local bearing supply.  Was tempted to replace the oil cups with grease fittings, and still might as they are out of sight and have the potential to be missed.


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## Redlineman (Jun 8, 2015)

Indeed;

Only the earliest 200s (like Mike's and mine) had the "floating" countershaft bushing holders. If my guess is right, somewhere in late '42 or early '43 they went to the far more common solid bracket LA-353. This does pivot at the bottom right in the drive box housing, but does indeed have bushings in the countershaft end. All of the bushings I have replaced in mine have been generic stock sizes, available anywhere such bearings are sold, McMaster-Carr being one. You could also make them if you were looking for projects, of course. 

If you have misalignment problems, I'd suggest checking that countershaft first. Both designs are known to wear significantly, and new shafts and bearings are often required, and pretty easy to replace. You can see such work both in MBfrontier's and my own rebuild threads.


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## wa5cab (Jun 9, 2015)

I'll add that solid brass bushings are suitable for use in applications where movement is not continuous or in splash, pumped or flooded sump systems.  In applications where movement is frequent or continuous, like a countershaft, the preferred material is sintered (porous) bronze (common trade name Oilite).  An oil cup above each bushing will serve to keep the pores full of oil and the ID lubricated for up to several days.  Reaming the bore of a sintered bronze bushing should be avoided as it tends to close up the pores, significantly reducing the effectiveness and causing them to run dry.  Or to put it another way, you can fairly easily make solid brass bushings on your lathe.  But you can't successfully make or modify Oilite bushings.  Grease is effective on slow or infrequently moving assemblies like tie rod ends, U-Joint bearings and chuck scrolls.  It is not very effective (meaning that the mating surfaces soon run dry) on open bushings and rapidly rotating shafts.


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