# Cutting Aluminum on the Home Shop Table Saw.



## Bill Gruby (Sep 27, 2014)

This is a Safety Issue that Admin and the Moderation Team feel needs to be discussed in depth. I was PM'd by L. Barlow and one comment he made stood out. "It is probably more dangerous not to discuss it." With that said I open the floor to comments for and against this practice. This in no way infers that we here at HM are going to change our position on what is safe and what is not. We will never condone the use of a machine for something it was not intended to do. Your safety is our primary concern here.

 It will be OK to disagree here as long as it is done in a civil manner. If you post, make sure it is exactly what you wish to say before you post it. A good idea here is to preview your post before you post it. We would especially like to hear from those that do this on a regular basis. I think that should cover what we are looking for, now it is yours to discuss.

 Thank you;

 Admin and the Moderation Team.


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## kd4gij (Sep 27, 2014)

A belt drive table saw can be easily and cheapley moded to do nice work on aluminum plate and sheat metal. Swap the pullys or motor to slow the blade down and use a 64th bimetal blade. But yes a tablesaw weather cutting  wood or matel does require more care. Just be safe. And never push with your hands weather cutting wood or meatle.


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## Ebel440 (Sep 27, 2014)

I would never try it myself I don't even like using them to cut wood though.  I feel safe using any proper metal cutting tool but the thought of an aluminum plate kicking back makes it seem too much of a risk.  I can't imagine aluminum chips are good for the saw either.


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## SWARFEATER (Sep 27, 2014)

I do it all the time, a good sharp carbide  blade goes thru alum like butter. some care and no haste helps too.


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## Bill Gruby (Sep 27, 2014)

I have a question. "If you were cutting .500 Aluminum Plate do you do it in one pass?

 "Billy G"


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## John Hasler (Sep 27, 2014)

If I had any sheet aluminum to cut I'd consider modifying my radial arm saw by adding a leadscrew feed and installing a small diameter bimetal blade.  The advantage is that the work can be clamped to the table.  The leadscrew drive would be necessary to prevent autofeeding (it would be useful sometimes with wood).


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## GA Gyro (Sep 27, 2014)

IMO this thread is a good idea.  Just saying 'DO NOT DO IT, IT IS DANGEROUS'... is like telling a kid to stay off the grass... we know what will happen.
Better IMO to discuss openly the pro's and con's... so the 'adventurous' folks will understand what they are getting into. <grin>

Most table-saws I have seen, were designed to cut wood.  A table saw, un-like a lathe or mill, cuts with repeated gouging actions-rather than a smooth slice... This causes vibration, as cutting metal does in a machine tool.  So again, beefy metal and a motor sized for the load, determines the ability to make the cut.

Having said this... IMO one 'can' cut aluminum in a table saw... however it is a much more dangerous operation than cutting wood, which is already a dangerous operation due to the blade and table.  

Here are a few few safety tips, albeit by no means a thorough list (always read the tool manufacturer instructions before using the tool):
*Remove all jewelry, loose clothing, roll up your sleeves, etc... see next item:
*NEVER get anything close the blade, other than the part to be cut and the 'push shoe' (a scrap used to push the part cut through the table).
*NEVER remove the blade guard.  One of the purposes of that guard is to help avoid 'kick back'... which is a situation where the blade snags the work and slings it back at the operator... and with SIGNIFICANT FORCE.  Which leads to:
*DO NOT force a cut in a table saw. Whether you are cutting a 2x4, hard woods, or getting adventurous with aluminum, do NOT force the cut.  Allow the saw to chew away at the rate it is comfortable.
*ALWAYS have a sharp blade, with enough teeth to do a proper cut.  This means 3-4 teeth minimum in contact with the work at any given time.  Note this is almost impossible cutting thin aluminum sheet stock in a table saw... so here is a limitation to the effectiveness of expecting to use a table saw to cut aluminum. 

I am sure there are lots more safety points I have missed... just thought I would throw out a few to start the discussion going.

In closing... if it were me, I would find another method, rather than a big-box store table saw.  
Just my $0.02 worth...


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## savarin (Sep 27, 2014)

I have used my workmate (table saw amongst other uses) to cut ally plate from 6mm up to 50 mm.
If the blade has heaps of teeth and is sharp it cuts smooth and fast.
The fine flat chips fly everywhere and I mean every where.
The thickest I tried to cut was a stainless bowl filled with cast ally. I only got halfway through with that one.
Today I used a hand held jig saw to cut 10mm ally plate, again the chips get everywhere.
Plenty of wd40 as lube, not a tidy cut but only took 6 mins to cut an octogon of 130mm dia.
For thinner than 6mm I like using the jig saw clamped in the vice upside down and sliding the material to the blade. Its surprisingly rigid and controlable.


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## davidh (Sep 27, 2014)

i need to say, i followed the suggestion and cut 4 parts using my antique Craftsman horz. vertical bandsaw.  i have to say, even a one eyed dude can cut pretty straight if the line is wide enough and dark enough.  
thinking about the noise and those dang shavings getting all over the wood shop was only a couple reasons i choose to not use the table saw...  i believe it would work great if you had a blade that was for that. . . .  i have a steelmax skil type saw that is scarey as heck to used, even with all precautions. . . but its results are really great for thicker things than sheetmetal. 
with a many toothed carbide blade, like maybe 100 teeth, on a table saw, running at about half speed with the blade exposure set quite high, would this not be very similar to a "cold cut saw" ? ? ?  i would not go thru all the trouble to do that but im curious as to why it would or wouldn;t work. . . however,
caution, caution, caution. always consider the outcome prior to attempting something you have not experienced. . . "the worst thing that could happen if i. . . . . "
i will post some pictures of the project if they turn out ok. . . . . and thanks for the concerns.
davidh, the old guy.


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## Baithog (Sep 27, 2014)

I used to be from the 'don't do it' camp. I had been taught from basic shop class on (when they had such things) that you only cut wood on a table saw... then along came affordable plastics and carbide and all that. The naysayers should take a trip on down to the local big box home improvement store. Most of them will stock a saw blade for non-ferrous metal. The manufacturers seem to think that you can spin that blade up and safely cut non-ferrous metal with it. I don't see ads on cable TV by lawyers looking to sue the manufacturer for the damages from the use of such a manifestly dangerous item, so a bit of logic would probably lead us to believe that it can be done safely. 

Many years ago when I worked for a large test&measurement corporation, I needed to make a fairly long cut in some 1/4-3/8 aluminum I was making a test fixture bracket out of. I don't remember the exact thickness any more. The band saw in the engineering shop was buggered up, as usual. I took the aluminum next door to the model/machine shop, told one of the machinists what I wanted to do, and asked what they used to cut the stock. He said that he'd do it for me, fired up the table saw and cut it. I was flabbergasted. I asked him if he did that often. He gave me one of those those 'dumb engineer' looks and asked what I thought they had a table saw for? He must have been right about what he was doing. OSHA and WISHA never cited the company for that 'unsafe' practice... and I'm sure that if you were to drag out the archived ISO9002 documentation, that the practice is enshrined there. Certainly the practice is not safe if done haphazardly, but most of our machinery is like that.


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## savarin (Sep 27, 2014)

One thing I do worry about is the aluminium chips getting into the motor and shorting it out. I've not heard of this happening but the way they fly around I do think about it.


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## John Hasler (Sep 27, 2014)

You should be using a totally-enclosed motor on a table saw.


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## LEEQ (Sep 27, 2014)

Having professionally operated a Milwaukee circular saw (hand held) designed for cutting metal, I hate it. Not the brand, the practice. Any tiny deviation from a true cut in any plane, in any amount instantly results in a slight to severe pinch and pop. After cleaning your pants you discover you have knocked  one or more teeth off that pricey blade. I would opine that using a metal cutting blade in a table saw with both sides of the cut supported and the work pressed against the rip fence with an easy feeding pressure would be much safer than these hand held saws designed to do this job. I don't believe they would sell blades designed for metal cutting in a table saw if they thought it would be a problem. All that being said, I will avoid the practice after my own experiences circular sawing metal. I can't afford that many new pairs of drawers.


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## kevin (Sep 27, 2014)

I have cut thin aluminum with my table saw, before I got a metal cutting bandsaw, but not since. This tells me that, given a choice, I stay away from the table saw for cutting metal. On the other hand, it can be done, but more than the usual (wood cutting) precautions are necessary.

- Use a sharp carbide blade with a lot of teeth; carbide blades designed for metal cutting are ideal (but expensive) so likely people are not going to make this special purchase (and maybe better to put the money into a metal cutting bandsaw anyway)
- Wear a full face shield
- Expect and prepare for kickback (that is - a small piece of metal flying back ay you at high speed)

I'm inclined to agree with LEEQ - when I think about doing something in the shop that makes me nervous, I take this as a danger sign.


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## GA Gyro (Sep 27, 2014)

davidh said:


> i need to say, i followed the suggestion and cut 4 parts using my antique Craftsman horz. vertical bandsaw.  i have to say, even a one eyed dude can cut pretty straight if the line is wide enough and dark enough.
> thinking about the noise and those dang shavings getting all over the wood shop was only a couple reasons i choose to not use the table saw...  i believe it would work great if you had a blade that was for that. . . .  i have a steelmax skil type saw that is scarey as heck to used, even with all precautions. . . but its results are really great for thicker things than sheetmetal.
> with a many toothed carbide blade, like maybe 100 teeth, on a table saw, running at about half speed with the blade exposure set quite high, would this not be very similar to a "cold cut saw" ? ? ?  i would not go thru all the trouble to do that but im curious as to why it would or wouldn;t work. . . however,
> *caution, caution, caution. always consider the outcome prior to attempting something you have not experienced. . . "the worst thing that could happen if i. . . . . "*
> ...



Just for fun... Talking about inviting Mr Murhpy (murphys law) to your shop...

Kinda like:  The worst thing that could happen... probably will... LOL

Seriously... if anyone is gonna be 'adventurous'... think it through before setting up and starting the saw.

And one more thing... Have your cell phone in your pocket... just in case you need to call 911...


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## barlow l (Sep 27, 2014)

I understand and appreciate the safety concerns the Admins have with this issue.

I have cut Aluminum plate from .125 to 1.250, angle, tubing round and square and solid round stock with skill saw, miter saw, wood band saw and table saw. In fact, all my woodworking machines have cut more aluminum than wood. 

Cutting speeds for both wood and Aluminum are pretty close to the same. Do not confuse cutting steel with Non ferrous material, the speeds are very different. 

Cutting Aluminum on a table saw can be accomplished very successfully and safely IF and ONLY IF you use the blade INTENDED to do so. While a general purpose carbide wood blade will work fine in a miter saw or skill saw it will NOT work safely in a table saw. This is the part you MUST understand, the proper blade MUST be used. 

Running recap tires on a C7 Corvette WILL get you to 190 miles per hour but the end results will be disastrous if not fatal. So don’t run recap tires on your C7 vette and don’t use an incorrect blade to cut Aluminum on your table saw.  

I have attached a photo of the blade I personally use that is designed to be used in a table saw. They cost 50 to 60 dollars but last for a good number of cuts. I also leave the blade around .001-.003 below the top surface, this greatly reduces the amount of swarf in your face. Sometimes it may leave a small burr that needs to be cleaned up but the reduction in flying hot chips is worth the time to deburr. 

As with any tool or machinery use, common sense and caution must certainly be used along with the proper personal protection.


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## keithmifflin (Sep 27, 2014)

I spent 10 years in a shipyard and cut countless items of Alum. on table saw safely and easily.  Take the same precautions you do with wood and yes the chips do fly but then you have your safety glasses on don't you.  Kickback on the table saw follows the same rule as with wood.  Now to just throw out a new thought to many, in the ship yards and in my own shop a carbide router bit on a wood hand router can do a very fine job for many things like radius corners and some decorative edges etc.   Again secure the work well and use the same safety that you do with wood.

Make good use of your existing tools just be sure that you also follow the same safety procedures you SHOULD with wood.


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## sgisler (Sep 27, 2014)

I for one do it all the time. It bears repeating that all caution must be taken. But, a fine toothed carbide blade works a treat on non-ferrous metals. I've often cut 1/4" alum on a table saw. Ive cut up to 1/8" brass sheet on the table saw. I've cut several hundred round brass (1"dia) baluster end fittings at an angle on a table saw. I cut all my alum sections (angle, bar, tube, window extrusions) on a power miter saw with fine carbide blade. 
Again, obviously, be very careful! As we all know and agree, ALL the tools in our shops ARE inherently dangerous, more so if brain is not engaged. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## joebiplane (Sep 27, 2014)

Bill Gruby said:


> This is a Safety Issue that Admin and the Moderation Team feel needs to be discussed in depth. I was PM'd by L. Burton and one comment he made stood out. "It is probably more dangerous not to discuss it." With that said I open the floor to comments for and against this practice. This in no way infers that we here at HM are going to change our position on what is safe and what is not. We will never condone the use of a machine for something it was not intended to do. Your safety is our primary concern here.
> 
> It will be OK to disagree here as long as it is done in a civil manner. If you post, make sure it is exactly what you wish to say before you post it. A good idea here is to preview your post before you post it. We would especially like to hear from those that do this on a regular basis. I think that should cover what we are looking for, now it is yours to discuss.
> 
> ...



I was told that we could cut sheet steel siding with a Skil saw  "BUT WE HAD TO REVERSE THE BLADE"
 Would this hold true for aluminium ???   and perhaps reduce the chips that my table say produses when cutting  alum material ??
Just wondering !
Joe


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## sgisler (Sep 27, 2014)

Again, a skilsaw with a fine carbide blade works great in alum also. Still, LOTS of flying chips. Have done it quite a lot. I'll add also, as Keith mentioned, that a router works well to square or round over edges in alum. I've used the router when laminating alum to a plywood base to flush trim the alum to the plywood. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Brnoczech (Sep 27, 2014)

I just posted on the previous thread.  You might check Morse Metal Devil 7 1/4" blades, which are carbide, and the one I have is for mild steel.


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## LJP (Sep 27, 2014)

I have been cutting aluminum on a table saw for 35 years. Mostly for cabinet shop projects. We always used about an 80 tooth carbide tipped blade, with a triple chip grind on the tooth. Cut offs with the miter guage are usually pretty easily done. Ripping along a fence is a little worse, but I would not hesitate. Keep the blade low and material tight to the table. Kick backs are more likely, than with wood. A raised blade will tend to hold the material down, but is far more dangerous with aluminum. Have cut brass as well.
Recently was building a roof with steel roofing. I have cut the steel roofing (29 ga) with a Milwaukee skill saw with the blade reversed with good results. This time I bought a "double cut saw" from HF. It has 2 blades that spin in opposite directions, it worked about the same as the Milwaukee. I would not let anyone do what I did with these saws, that I did not feel had as much experience with these type tools as I do. Possibility of kick back is great, make sure your paying close attention to what your doing and be ready at all times for the kick back. I did all the cutting for a 12' x 45' roof with a hip at each end. There was a fair amount of cutting for this steel. Again if you are not experienced or confident with this type work, it can be very dangerous.


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## brav65 (Sep 27, 2014)

I have worked in the commercial window business and using a large cabinet table say with infeed and outfeed tables was part of everyday fabrication.  We had a very high quality  fine tooth carbide blade that was kept very sharp ( we had three blades and would send one out for sharpening and one in reserve) and use copious amounts of WD40.  Feed rates should also be very slow and the use of guide and push blocks is recommended.  We also had a full face shield along with the safety glasses that everyone was required to wear.  I would also suggest hearing protection as there is a very loud high pitch noise created.   Following those simple guidelines we never had an injury.  We passed numerous state and federal safety inspection as well as insurance carrier liability inspections.


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## barlow l (Sep 27, 2014)

joebiplane said:


> I was told that we could cut sheet steel siding with a Skil saw  "BUT WE HAD TO REVERSE THE BLADE"
> Would this hold true for aluminium ???   and perhaps reduce the chips that my table say produses when cutting  alum material ??
> Just wondering !
> Joe



*UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES should you turn the blade backwards to cut Aluminum. NONE!*


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## GLCarlson (Sep 27, 2014)

Brnoczech said:


> I just posted on the previous thread.  You might check Morse Metal Devil 7 1/4" blades, which are carbide, and the one I have is for mild steel.



Ditto, missed the move. Certainly agree that cutting Al, or anything other than wood, on a tablesaw with a blade intended for wood is something to be careful of. I use the Diablo blade mentioned above, specifically designed for non-ferrous metals, and it works well. I also routinely do a partial thickness cut on both sides (table saw fence keeps the cuts lined up), aiming for a thirty-second to a sixteenth thick center bridge- which is easily broken or cut. That approach avoids flying chips (they all stay under the table). A jigsaw cuts and a file cleans up the edge just fine.

As with other posters, this is my go-to method for sheet stock -up to half inch or so- too big for my regular saw. If you use all the PPE -eyes, ears, pushblocks- and the right blades and speeds, the method works.  It does require more care and thought than cutting wood!


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## GLCarlson (Sep 27, 2014)

Just for fun, I put a 7.25", 80 flute milling cutter with a 0.25 DOC and 0.125 WOC cutting 6061 into Gwizard. Gwiz comes back with 300 rpm recommended, chipload per tooth .0016, and a feed of 37 ipm for 'light roughing' with HSS cutter. Carbide is about 720 rpm. Plug in 1500 rpm, feedrate jumps to 90 ipm for either carbide or HSS (that is, maxes out- not the actual number allowed) with a thou or so per tooth, at 5000 rpm chipload is 2 tenths. Could be the biggest problem cutting Al on an unmodified table saw is going too slow and rubbing rather than cutting.  The Gwiz numbers do suggest that one ought to look at the blade speed, and almost certainly slow it down.


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## Ed T (Sep 27, 2014)

I cut aluminum plate regularly on my table saw. I usually use a non-ferrous blade made for the purpose and have cut up to 1.5" thick material w/o any problems. As mentioned above, it does make lots of chips and they are hot. The biggest problem I have with the chips is that they tend to get tracked into the house and not everyone who lives here is happy about that. I pay attention and always have kickback on my mind, but I have never had it happen. I recognize that it can and stand off to the side so I won't be in the path should it occur. For regular alloys like 6061-T6 and other relatively hard stuff I cut dry. For dead soft things like some castings I cut up some time ago, I use WD-40 to help the chips not stick to the blade. I find aluminum cuts very well on the table saw and its a good way to reduce large pieces down to a manageable size quickly and with reasonable accuracy. It cuts at about 1/2 the feed speed of hardwood. I also have a junker saw fitted up with a Diablo steel cutting blade. I've cut some 1/8" mild steel on that, but it is not pleasant to use and I do so only if there is no viable alternative.
    Any metal cutting activity has some risk and they can be mitigated by thinking about what you are going to do and paying attention while you are doing it just like using a chain saw or driving to work.  So, for me, cutting metal on the table saw is a good alternative to other methods. That doesn't mean that I'm endorsing or recommending it for anyone else. You will have to make that decision on your own.


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## BinaryAndy (Sep 27, 2014)

I have cut a lot of wood on the table saw that is HARDER than 6061 aluminum (Argentine lignum vitae, ipe, Australian gidgee, etc.). I've also cut 6061 and 7075 up to 1.5" thick in one pass. This is on a smallish Craftsman portable table saw, nothing huge or high-end. I've also cut a whole lot of 2" square 6061 on a chop saw meant for wood at work, because that was the best and fastest way to do it.

The first thing you must understand is that the table saw is usually the most dangerous machine in the shop, even when it's being used for what it's intended for.

What makes a table saw dangerous when cutting wood is that the workpiece is not clamped down and is trapped between the blade (which is spinning towards the operator) and the fence. Wood has a lot of internal stress in it, and it moves when you cut it. If it moves in such a way that it no longer fits between the fence and blade, it can catch the blade and come at you. This danger is practically non-existent when you're cross-cutting, because you aren't using the fence.

Aluminum does not move like wood does, and it's much more homogenous, no grain lines and rarely any hard spots, so it's actually much less likely to kick back than most of the exotic hardwoods I've cut. The surface speed is too high and the chipload is too low for aluminum (this is also true for hardwoods, BTW), but all that means is the blade will dull a bit faster than you'd like. Really the only hazard with aluminum that's any worse than with wood is the possibility of chips welding to the blade. Use lots of WD-40 and sharp blades, and that won't be much of a problem. I've found that aluminum on the table saw is actually not very sensitive to feedrate, though my blades tend to last longer, leave a better finish, and stick to the chips less when feeding a whole lot faster than you would expect.

I would say that _cross-cutting_ aluminum on the table saw is dramatically SAFER than _ripping_ hardwood on the table saw.


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## uncle harry (Sep 27, 2014)

GA said:


> Just for fun... Talking about inviting Mr Murhpy (murphys law) to your shop...
> 
> Kinda like:  The worst thing that could happen... probably will... LOL
> 
> ...



OK,

As long as we can pick on Murphy, I'll risk identifying Koslowski's Law (Koslowski does not really exist) which states basically that Murphy was an optimist !


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## SG51Buss (Sep 27, 2014)

Boy, am I glad this thread got started.

I have a 9" disc sander with a 1/2 thick, 14" wide, 8" deep tilting table of 6061 aluminum.  I need to cut a mitre slot about 3/32" deep and 5/16" wide in the thing.  I have no milling machine for this, but do have 2 table saws and some fine-pitch carbide blades.  This would probably require some sort of 'finger follower'.  I suppose that I should cut the 2 outer kerf slots first, so the blade won't distort, then finish up with hogging out the center portion?

Been pondering on this for quite some time, so I'll just keep watching this thread for now...


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## brav65 (Sep 27, 2014)

Finger boards on the table and one before and after the blade on the fence works well.  I have had to cut custom sized channel that way, just use lots of WD40 and check the blade after each cut to make sure that no aluminum has filled in any of the teeth or is sticking to the side of the blade.  If so let is cool off and knock it off with a putty knife.  A slow feed rate allows the chips to clear from the cutting area so that there is less risk of build up on the blade.


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## GA Gyro (Sep 27, 2014)

uncle harry said:


> OK,
> 
> As long as we can pick on Murphy, I'll risk identifying Koslowski's Law (Koslowski does not really exist) which states basically that Murphy was an optimist !



Yes, and of the two (Murphy or Koslovski)... I am not sure which one I would rather be around...  :bitingnails:

Last summer, I did a rebuild of a HP in a closet off the balcony of a 12th story condo.  I saw old Murphy coming around, touting me... Realized he was determined to make my day living h*ll... so I asked him to come over and help me figure out what to do with this issue... When he got close enough, I grabbed him and hung him off the rail of the balcony.  Told him if I ever saw him on my jobsite again... I was gonna really do something bad... then let go...  :nuts:
Watching him go down... I breathed a sigh of relief, and went back to work.  Finished the job on time, it is still running without any more attention.

(Note, this is a fictitious story... grin).


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## Smithdoor (Sep 28, 2014)

I have work in shops where they use a hand skill saw to cut 1" plate AL.

Dave


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## savarin (Sep 28, 2014)

Had to cut some 10mm plate today, I elected to use the jig saw instead of the table saw as I didnt feel like having to clean up all the shavings.
Full details here with the times.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...ng-focal-length-refractor?p=232059#post232059


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## chip_slinger (Sep 29, 2014)

Using a table saw to cut thick aluminum plate sounds scary to me. I'm not sure I would try it. I can see using a mitre saw with an appropriate blade to cut extrusions, but I've never done it. 

Coincidentally, I was watching a video on youtube by CompEdge X. and he uses a cheap table saw with a not-many tooth blade to cut 3/4" plate. Scary as hell! Confirms I will never try it. Check out the video around the 9:00 mark. Scary!

[video=youtube_share;CX4Ous-DOlQ]http://youtu.be/CX4Ous-DOlQ[/video]


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## TOOLMASTER (Sep 29, 2014)

table saw cuts love wax...clears the blade from accumulating alum as you cut. cutting for 40 years now


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## george wilson (Sep 29, 2014)

You at least need to get a PROPER metal cutting blade. They have NEGATIVE RAKE-the teeth lean backwards a little. That keeps them from breaking off. Special metal cutting Skil type saws run a bit slower than the ordinary higher speed wood cutting saws.

There are lots of hot chips popping around every where,and this is NOT a procedure I would recommend to novices.

It is certainly NOT a good idea to use an under powered table saw,thinking it has a built in safety factor. If a capacitor motor slows down,the capacitor kicks in,rapidly accelerating the speed of the motor. This can be very dangerous,and causes kick backs.

I bought a special metal cutting saw,a Milwaukee,I think,and a special metal cutting blade. I cut up a 1/2" sheet of bronze that was 4' x 8'. I used a wooden fence clamped to the plate to guide the saw. You do not want to get your saw cocked at a little in a cut in the cut. It will kick back. Even with the special housing,which covered the whole blade,plenty of blue hot chips bounced around. A face shield is certainly called for. Long sleeves are good also. You do not want to be distracted by hot chips on your arms.

I sold the saw to a forum member when I was done with it. Sawing metal with a circular saw is not something I want to do. The plate weighed 800#,so I had to cut it into smaller pieces to even get them light enough to get onto a machine. Further cuts can be made on my Roll In bandsaw.


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## TOOLMASTER (Sep 29, 2014)

now who uses a radial arm...lol


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## John Hasler (Sep 29, 2014)

TOOLMASTER said:


> now who uses a radial arm...lol



"Climb milling"

Actually, with a backstop, clamps on the work, and a leadscrew feed it might work quite well.


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## ScrapMetal (Sep 29, 2014)

chip_slinger said:


> Using a table saw to cut thick aluminum plate sounds scary to me. I'm not sure I would try it. I can see using a mitre saw with an appropriate blade to cut extrusions, but I've never done it.
> 
> Coincidentally, I was watching a video on youtube by CompEdge X. and he uses a cheap table saw with a not-many tooth blade to cut 3/4" plate. Scary as hell! Confirms I will never try it. Check out the video around the 9:00 mark. Scary!



No flippin' way!  Uh, uh, no way, no how.  I hope the guy is already deaf as he didn't even bother with hearing protection. :whacky:

I've read about how some of you have done this, and quite a bit of it, but to me it just screams to me as a good reason to buy a better bandsaw. 

I can imagine just how I would bring it up to the wife, "Hon, I have to cut this slab of aluminum.  Now, I could go out and buy the "proper" blade and do it on the table saw but that would be highly dangerous< and a don't think we have a dismemberment clause in our home owners insurance, or I can go invest in the proper tool for the job which will be much safer and make future jobs easier/quicker/safer..."

JMHO

-Ron


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## kd4gij (Sep 29, 2014)

I don't have a problem using my table saw. My radial arm saw? Not a chance. And I have an old Craftsman made my Emerson electric with a cast iron arme verry ridge. But hard wood it want's to clime.I actuley have to hold it back insted of pulling it through.


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## GA Gyro (Sep 29, 2014)

chip_slinger said:


> Using a table saw to cut thick aluminum plate sounds scary to me. I'm not sure I would try it. I can see using a mitre saw with an appropriate blade to cut extrusions, but I've never done it.
> 
> Coincidentally, I was watching a video on youtube by CompEdge X. and he uses a cheap table saw with a not-many tooth blade to cut 3/4" plate. Scary as hell! Confirms I will never try it. Check out the video around the 9:00 mark. Scary!
> 
> [video=youtube_share;CX4Ous-DOlQ]http://youtu.be/CX4Ous-DOlQ[/video]



Hmmm...

Note I am not criticizing the person in the video, he appears to have skills with the machines he operates... 

However:

The way he uses a table saw... even if one was cutting wood, one could get hurt badly with those techniques.  

I think one could call that the negative side of 'old school'...  grin


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## SWARFEATER (Sep 29, 2014)

cut some 6061 1.5 X 3 into 4" blocks, one pass, did 6 feet worth. big big mess took about 10 mins, no problems other than the noise and tingling fingers.


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## TOOLMASTER (Sep 29, 2014)

GA said:


> Hmmm...
> 
> Note I am not criticizing the person in the video, he appears to have skills with the machines he operates...
> 
> ...



at least support both sides if going freehand.don't know why he didn't use the fence for the first 2 cuts..oil well..


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## brav65 (Sep 29, 2014)

Well I am not a machinist, but I have cut a great deal of aluminum on a table saw and I can tell you that I did not free hand it!  Use a blade guard, a fence, finger boards and a push block.  Wear PPE (face shield and hearing protection) and use some sort of blade lubricant.  Also the blade should be set to only clear the surface of the material by the height of the teeth on the blade.  Other than those items, it is a great video.




chip_slinger said:


> Using a table saw to cut thick aluminum plate sounds scary to me. I'm not sure I would try it. I can see using a mitre saw with an appropriate blade to cut extrusions, but I've never done it.
> 
> Coincidentally, I was watching a video on youtube by CompEdge X. and he uses a cheap table saw with a not-many tooth blade to cut 3/4" plate. Scary as hell! Confirms I will never try it. Check out the video around the 9:00 mark. Scary!
> 
> [video=youtube_share;CX4Ous-DOlQ]http://youtu.be/CX4Ous-DOlQ[/video]


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## uncle harry (Sep 30, 2014)

TOOLMASTER said:


> table saw cuts love wax...clears the blade from accumulating alum as you cut. cutting for 40 years now



Yes Wax !

Lennox some years back gave a complementary wax-like lube cartridge with the purchase of their blades. In cased in a cardboard tube permited the operator to cut into the end thus lubricating the band.  After a strenuous Wisconsin winter I grabbed the cartridge to lube a blade only to find it mysteriously totally empty.  The mystery was resolved when mouse manure was discovered where it was stored.


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## Bill Gruby (Sep 30, 2014)

That video explains the Forum Position on Cutting Aluminum on the Table Saw perfectly. He did everything without any regard to his safety. There is no way you can guide a plate that big across the table free hand and not lose it a couple of times. If I ever come into a shop and this was being done, that shop would get no work from me.

 "Billy G"


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## TOOLMASTER (Sep 30, 2014)

Then you should never watch me cut out circles..lol


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## John Hasler (Sep 30, 2014)

You cut circles with a table saw?


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## Bill Gruby (Sep 30, 2014)

I would ask now that people do not just say I did something. Please explain how you do it and what safety precautions you used. let's start adding some reality to what you are saying.  Thank you.

 "Billy G"


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## David Kirtley (Sep 30, 2014)

After reading so far, there is not much difference in the consensus of table saw safety on the woodworking forums. A table saw is not any more likely to hurt you than something like a nice powerful drill press, milling machine or lathe. It all comes down to work holding and stock control. Tablesaws can be operated safely and trouble free. They can also be a deadly machine.

Personally, I haven't had one in years. Not because of safety but more the fact that to use them effectively you need good side and outfeed support that translates to a lot of space that I don't have. I would rather break down large sheet stock with a circular saw with a cutting guide.  The new metal cutting circular saws would be a pretty good match as well for metal sheet with a similar guide.  Something smaller than big sheet? It is just so much more simple on the bandsaw or chop saw.


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## PGB1 (Oct 4, 2014)

I'm kind of late to this thread, but I wanted to share a couple of things from the past...

At work, the machine repair guys had some negative rake blades and a Zero Clearance insert. They would use them in the carpenters' table saw  (in frontwards) for aluminum and brass sheets, rods, extrusions & such.

But...

Accident 1:
A guy was cutting sheet aluminum. The saw dust that was in the saw skirt caught fire. I don't think aluminum sparks, so it may have been hot chips?

Accident 2:
One day I was in the carpenters' shop while a co-worker was cutting sheet aluminum. It kicked back and flew up. I suppose the saw's kickback fingers could not grip the metal sufficiently.
Instead of a bonk on the head as one would get from wood, he got cut badly enough for lots & lots of stitches. (Face, neck, hands and one arm)

Accident 3:
Gloves with rotating machinery do not mix. Add a workpiece with sharp edges and you end up with yet another trip to the clinic for the guy in "Accident 2".

End Of The Practice:
An OSHA inspector happened to go in the shop while the saw was in use. That was the (costly) end of table sawing metals.

Honesty Time-
At home, I've cut aluminum sheet 0.125" and above with an all-metal body circular saw. (I never had luck circular sawing metal thinner than 0.125".)
I had a blade with zero tooth offset and no carbide tips to break off.  I added a full face shield, no bystanders and extra hearing protection to compliment the normal safety gear. Work was always well clamped.    Note- No Gloves With Any Rotating Machinery. Ever.

Personally, I never had a problem. Some lousy cuts, but no accidents. 
I stopped using the saw for metals after I saw 'Accident 2", above.

Now-a-days I will score the aluminum sheet with a knife a bunch of times and snap it. Up to 0.250" is as thick as I have tried it on. I clean the resultant burr by dragging a swivel reamer along the cut edge or by using the edge of a file. It takes a while to score & snap, but it is a rather peaceful project. 

Enjoy Today & Work Safely!
Paul


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## TOOLMASTER (Oct 4, 2014)

John Hasler said:


> You cut circles with a table saw?



piece of cake


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## speedre9 (Oct 9, 2014)

Back in the day I worked at a vacuum forming operation that was to say, primitive at best, would be an understatement. When asked to make a mold plate I said " how do I do that with no plate stock", well to my surprise the boss showed me where the plates were kept. They were full four foot by eight foot  sheets of 1/2" 6061T alum. Well long story short I took it over to an old antiquated Sears Craftsman sheet metal bodied table saw with the old style fence. " Just wax up the blade" and cut said he. I made a habit of it after that, it was part of the job. I was scared, yes, insanely careful, yes. Oh, we used a Sears aluminum cutting carbide saw blade to boot!. So, yes it is a common practice to cut aluminum plate on a wood table saw with the proper blade, a wax tube lubricant used liberally, and much safety considerateness. The maximum I have cut this way was 1.00" stock in two passes. Full body protection is mandatory and, very much required to cut this stuff.


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## Falcon67 (Oct 9, 2014)

I've used a fine tooth blade on thin - stop sign thick - stock for fair size pieces.  It's loud and a bit scary, but same precautions as wood - make sure you know where your hands are, guards on if possible, fences, etc.  Only pieces big enough to well clear the blade slot and maybe not get crosswise.  My 10" has a thermal trip on the motor, so if you get too aggressive with anything it'll shut down.  I have also used a circular saw to cut corrugated steel, like you see on farm buildings.  Take an old blade and flip it around, cuts real clean.  Skirted our mobile in the country back in 1984 with that method.  You could hear the saw slicing that stuff a good half mile away.


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## davidh (Oct 9, 2014)

i said i would show off what i was attempting to do. . . . in the photo is the blank plate, about .190 thick.  sanded, buffed and polished to a fair luster.  next operation is to bore a 1-1/2"  hole, about .175 deep to hold a canadian $8 silver coin.  Christmas gifts for grandkids and greatgrand kids.  
last week i made a couple of them from black walnut from a neighbors tree, these are larger coins but for the same purpose.  sanded them out fairly nice and sprayed a couple coats of poly on them.  when dry, i pushed the coin into the bored hole, and the face of the coin is just a bit below the surface. . . . .
more pictures to follow..
oh ya, i did saw the aluminum ones with my vertical old craftsman bandsaw.  then milled them square. . . they came off the saw fairly straight.


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## uncle harry (Oct 10, 2014)

speedre9 said:


> Back in the day I worked at a vacuum forming operation that was to say, primitive at best, would be an understatement. When asked to make a mold plate I said " how do I do that with no plate stock", well to my surprise the boss showed me where the plates were kept. They were full four foot by eight foot  sheets of 1/2" 6061T alum. Well long story short I took it over to an old antiquated Sears Craftsman sheet metal bodied table saw with the old style fence. " Just wax up the blade" and cut said he. I made a habit of it after that, it was part of the job. I was scared, yes, insanely careful, yes. Oh, we used a Sears aluminum cutting carbide saw blade to boot!. So, yes it is a common practice to cut aluminum plate on a wood table saw with the proper blade, a wax tube lubricant used liberally, and much safety considerateness. The maximum I have cut this way was 1.00" stock in two passes. Full body protection is mandatory and, very much required to cut this stuff.



WOW,

It's a small world....I worked as a designer @ a Milwaukee based Point of Sale Advertising Co. long ago.  One day I observed the shop production foreman & his assistant sawing on an aluminum casting 4 inches thick on a table saw.  It was a vacuum form mold. When the overload heated up & cut out they cooled it down with an air hose!  Needless to say I got the H3ll out of the way quickly.


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## Glenn_ca (Oct 10, 2014)

TOOLMASTER said:


> now who uses a radial arm...lol


Tried it once, won't do that again!


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## epanzella (Oct 11, 2014)

I rip (with a fence) up to 1/4 inch aluminum all the time on my table saw. The chips are hot and the noise is deafening.  Other than that it's uneventful. I would never cut freehand or crosscut aluminum on a table saw as a cocked kerf could launch the piece at bullet-like velocity.


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## Rbeckett (Oct 11, 2014)

I admit I cut alli on a table saw when I had one and still cut it with my circular saw.  But I either use a vitrified solid wheel or a hight tooth count Carbide designed for the job.  The noise is awful and the vibration through you hands is enough to want to limit that activity as much as possible. I never cut anything any thicker than 14 gauge mild steel and Alli either.

Bob


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## jgedde (Oct 11, 2014)

Here's my take: only as an absolute LAST RESORT...  With the right blade, it should, in theory be possible.  I'd go with a neutral rake or negative rake non-ferrous metal blade. I'd limit my cuts to only certain alloys.  Not that gummy stuff they make fixture plates out of.

I've cut brass on the table saw using a blade like that and it went very well and gave a very good finish.  However, I was a bundle of nerves doing it and was very happy when I was done.  That said, the workpiece was clamped to a sled that prevented kickback or cocking of the workpiece.

I'd say unless you're an expert table saw user in wood, don't experiment with metal unless you have no other choice.  It's sort of unpublished territory...

John

John


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## j ferguson (Oct 12, 2014)

I have to confess to having cut a lot of aluminum with a table saw. And yes, everyone who says it's dangerous is right. 

I NEVER used the fence. If a chunk gets jammed between the blade and the fence it is much more likely to get exciting than with wood, although teak can sometimes raise the adrenalin.  

I NEVER cut where to do so would require standing in the plane of the blade.

I NEVER cut where there wasn't plenty of room downwind from the blade if it threw something, and 

I NEVER made a cut where there was much material being cut off.  

My thinking was that I could build up a pretty good fixture to hang onto the part of the stock that I was keeping, but not the other.  Fixture would be clamped to slide so that I was moving the slide, fixture, and stock past the blade not holding the stock by hand.  This makes it a lot easier to stand beside the saw not in line with the blade.

I used this setup mostly to trim and make nice finishes on 6061-T6 parts I made for small projects.  I was also constrained by having only a drill press, the cheap aluminum Delta table saw, and a saber saw. This was all done on our trawler with the saw clamped to a B&D ShopMate folding bench while anchored somewhere or other on the ICW.   

Although there's no denying that table saws are great for a lot of jobs, I find them terrifying, especially when the cut does require that you stand in front of the blade, making 4X8s smaller for example.


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## PGB1 (Oct 13, 2014)

I still am wary of cutting metal on a table saw but J. Ferguson made a great statement about not using the fence. Thinking about it, I will bet lots of ejected work is caused by binding at the fence. One tiny deviation from parallel... 

I wonder if having a 'Safety Lid' would add a margin of safety by keeping any ejected work piece from flying upwards. It would shoot backwards only and you are not in the kill zone. With the lid, the fence would not touch the workpiece.

"Safety Lid"???
Make an L shaped board as long as the table. Clamp the up-facing vertical leg to the fence, leaving the horizontal leg a bit higher than the thickness of the metal being cut. 
     (Example- If the work piece is 1" thick, leave the board 1-1/8" above the table.)

IMPORTANT- Leave the fence wider from the blade than the cut off width, thus effectively not using a fence like J Ferguson said.
   (Example- If the cut off it 6" wide, set the fence 7" or more from the blade.)

REALLY IMPORTANT- Use a notched push stick to send the work through the saw, directing the work with your hand on the side opposite of the lid. 
(Example- If the fence is left of the blade, push & guide with the right side hand.)
          I suppose that the push stick can be used under the lid with hand number two.

This is just a theory- I'm sure there are bugs to be worked out.


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## Fabrickator (Oct 13, 2014)

I have cut aluminum on a table saw a few times using every precaution described.  But I operate alone, and I just can't afford to take that kind of risk so I just use one of 5 o of the usual methods that are not as dangerous.  The only thing that I can say would justify using a table saw would be to cult long strip/sheet goods.  But I can stop by my local metal supply house and they'll shear it for $5 per cut.  Worth every dollar if you ask me.


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## savarin (Oct 19, 2014)

I needed some 8mm x 40mm strip so I ripped up an old boat transom.
I've used a wood cutting blade on the table saw in the past but decided to get a neg rake ally saw.
WOW chalk and cheese.
Nowhere near the amount of vibration, no hassles sliding along the fence, no lifting or pushing, it cut very smoothly and cleanly (not in the surrounds, chips everywhere) just like cutting 12mm ply.




I managed to get 2x35mm strips, 2x40mm strips 1x50mm strip and 1x 22mm strip. that narrow curly bit was where I cut the weld off to even the width. The red marks are the measurements for the new transom so this one was in the bin. $0.00, my kind of price.


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## Surprman (Oct 19, 2014)

I've cut some rod and bar stock on a 12in compound miter-saw.  It does cut it a lot easier than attempting to use a saws-all with a metal blade (my only other option for cutting metal- boy I need to get a nice bandsaw!). I was cutting a 3 inch section from a 1foot piece of aluminum rod (2inches in diameter) using an 80 tooth carbide blade.  It got almost all the way through and bound up, stopping the blade.  Once I dislodged the part, I figured I would simply spin the rod around and finish the cut from the other side.  Just after the cut was complete, the teeth of the blade grabbed the 3inch piece I cut off and spun it like a top.  It shot across the room, hit my furnace and continued to spin for another full minute on the ground.  I consider the compound miter saw to be one of the safest ways to cut anything nonferrous due to the limited travel of the blade.  After that experience, there is no way in the world that I would cut metal on my table saw - which I consider one of more dangerous pieces of equipment I own. (I'm even somewhat reluctant to use the miter saw on aluminum after this.)


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## Gary Ayres (Nov 3, 2014)

I have just started using my Evolution Rage circular saw (which is designed to cut through aluminium and steel as well as wood) clamped (tightly!) upside down in my Black and Decker Workmate portable workbench as a table saw. It cuts through either metal with frightening ease. On safety - yes, always an important factor. Having once been bitten by a table saw several years ago, I approach any saw with more respect now.


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## xalky (Nov 3, 2014)

I've cut aluminum plate on a table saw. It's a little spooky. Full face shield, long sleeves, and hearing protection required. I've also used my miter saw to cut aluminum and thats a breeze and remarkably safe compared to a table saw. I've also used a skill saw with the right non-ferrous metal cutting blade and that was also pretty non eventful.

If your gonna do this, get the right blade. I've done it without the right blade, but it's definitely safer using the correct designated blade. I also use wd-40 for lube, it helps a lot.

I'm not a safety freak, but this is one case where a full face shield, long sleeves and hearing protection, are a must do. The chips are very hot and can cause you to flinch and get distracted easily without a some shielding on your person. The frequency of the noise can make even a deaf mans ears flutter.)


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## Gary Ayres (Nov 5, 2014)

xalky said:


> I've cut aluminum plate on a table saw. It's a little spooky. Full face shield, long sleeves, and hearing protection required. I've also used my miter saw to cut aluminum and thats a breeze and remarkably safe compared to a table saw. I've also used a skill saw with the right non-ferrous metal cutting blade and that was also pretty non eventful.
> 
> If your gonna do this, get the right blade. I've done it without the right blade, but it's definitely safer using the correct designated blade. I also use wd-40 for lube, it helps a lot.
> 
> I'm not a safety freak, but this is one case where a full face shield, long sleeves and hearing protection, are a must do. The chips are very hot and can cause you to flinch and get distracted easily without a some shielding on your person. The frequency of the noise can make even a deaf mans ears flutter.)



Totally agree with you, xalky. I'm not a safety freak either, but one has to be sensible. Aluminium is weird stuff to cut and as you say, the hot chips fly...

I seriously recommend the Evolution Rage multi purpose blade, which is designed to go through pretty much everything. See it here - that's the saw that I clamp in my workmate bench. Don't know if they are sold under the same name in the USA or not, but no doubt they are available everywhere, possibly under different badges. Don't know how it compares to the blades that some of you guys are using, butI have never had a saw like it for aluminium and steel. Not that expensive either. They also make mitre saws and table saws and I was beginning to regret buying what I felt was the wrong one until I thought of clamping it upside down. As you say though, a mitre saw would be ideal. Also probably safer, but IMHO the real safety issue is being sensible, awake and careful both in setting up and operating, whatever gear you are using.


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## uncle harry (Nov 6, 2014)

Gary Ayres said:


> Totally agree with you, xalky. I'm not a safety freak either, but one has to be sensible. Aluminium is weird stuff to cut and as you say, the hot chips fly...
> 
> I seriously recommend the Evolution Rage multi purpose blade, which is designed to go through pretty much everything. See it here - that's the saw that I clamp in my workmate bench. Don't know if they are sold under the same name in the USA or not, but no doubt they are available everywhere, possibly under different badges. Don't know how it compares to the blades that some of you guys are using, butI have never had a saw like it for aluminium and steel. Not that expensive either. They also make mitre saws and table saws and I was beginning to regret buying what I felt was the wrong one until I thought of clamping it upside down. As you say though, a mitre saw would be ideal. Also probably safer, but IMHO the real safety issue is being sensible, awake and careful both in setting up and operating, whatever gear you are using.



I just "Googled" the Evolution products. Many of their products are readily available in the US.  Thanks for the info. Kind'a looks like I might 'need' one or two.


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## arvidj (Nov 6, 2014)

+1 on the Evolution Rage style of saw. I've cut both 1/2 inch plate steel and 1/4 inch aluminum and assuming you take your time and just let the saw do the work it is spectacularly easy. The cuts are perfectly straight [assuming you use a straight edge to guide the saw] and dross free so you can begin welding almost immediately.

I happen to have the Northern Tool clone ... http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200313572_200313572 ... and found it to be an excellent value *but* do have concerns about getting parts for it. I have already had minor problems in that regard ... not show-stoppers but annoyances ... but that is a Northern Tool issues and has nothing to do with the 5 star rating for the Evolution Rage style of saw


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## Eddyde (Nov 6, 2014)

I have cut aluminum up to 1" thick with table saws and up to 2.5" thick on miter saws countless times. It is as safe as cutting wood and won't do any harm to the machines as long as you do it correctly.
Here are my tips:
1. Always wear a full face shield and keep your body to one side of the blade, never directly in front of it. Use a push block for narrow pieces (goes for wood too).
2. Use a blade designed to cut aluminum, they have a negative rake and don't have a tendency to grab the material like a wood cutting blade can. Do not exceed the max rpm listed on the blade. Otherwise, there is no need to slow the machine down, just feed the work at a slower rate than wood. Adjust the blade about 2x material thickness out of the work.
3. Use metal cutting lubricant, the wax-stick kind is excellent but WD-40 will work in a pinch.
4. Be sure the machine is tuned up and tight, make sure the table saw fence isn't "heeling" (closer to the blade at the back) the fence to blade distance should be  2 or 3 thousandths wider at the back, this helps reduce kickbacks.
5. Always complete the cut, DO NOT pull the work back past the fence, push it all the way through. If you must do a partial cut, say when cutting an "L" shape, cut to the desired point then shut the machine off and wait till the blade stops, before removing the work.
6. On a miter-saw never raise the blade back up while it's still spinning, especially when cutting off small pieces. Complete the cut, keep the saw all the way down & in, release the switch, wait till the blade comes to a complete stop then raise the blade. Reason: the cutoff piece can fall back into the blade when its going back up causing it to catch on the spinning teeth which can propel it with great force, causing damage, injury or death. The same practice applies to wood or any other material. 
Work smart & be Safe.


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## Eddyde (Nov 6, 2014)

Surprman said:


> I've cut some rod and bar stock on a 12in compound miter-saw.  It does cut it a lot easier than attempting to use a saws-all with a metal blade (my only other option for cutting metal- boy I need to get a nice bandsaw!). I was cutting a 3 inch section from a 1foot piece of aluminum rod (2inches in diameter) using an 80 tooth carbide blade.  It got almost all the way through and bound up, stopping the blade.  Once I dislodged the part, I figured I would simply spin the rod around and finish the cut from the other side.  Just after the cut was complete, the teeth of the blade grabbed the 3inch piece I cut off and spun it like a top.  It shot across the room, hit my furnace and continued to spin for another full minute on the ground.  I consider the compound miter saw to be one of the safest ways to cut anything nonferrous due to the limited travel of the blade.  After that experience, there is no way in the world that I would cut metal on my table saw - which I consider one of more dangerous pieces of equipment I own. (I'm even somewhat reluctant to use the miter saw on aluminum after this.)




A common mistake. On a miter-saw never raise the blade back up while it's  still spinning, especially when cutting off small pieces. Complete the  cut, push the blade all the way down and in, release the switch, wait till the blade comes to a complete stop, then  raise the blade. Reason: the cutoff piece can fall back into the blade  when its going back up causing it to catch on the spinning teeth which  can propel it with great force, causing damage, injury or death. The  same practice applies to wood or any other material.


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## Eddyde (Nov 6, 2014)

j ferguson said:


> I NEVER used the fence. If a chunk gets jammed between the blade and the fence it is much more likely to get exciting than with wood, although teak can sometimes raise the adrenalin.



I totally disagree. Not using the fence "free cutting" is one of the most dangerous & foolish practices you can do on a table saw. the work is much more likely to bind and catch the blade than pushing it against a properly adjusted fence. It also defeats the accuracy advantage of using a table saw in the first place. 
I witnessed a guy get seriously injured doing this, he was "free cutting" a 3' x5' plywood on a Delta Unisaw because it needed to be cut at a slight angle. Half-way through the cut the work caught the blade causing it to kick-back, since he was holding the front the back of the workpiece jumped off the table and smacked him square in the face, breaking his nose and causing his teeth to puncture his lower lip. I don't even want to think about what would have happened to him if it was a piece of aluminium plate...


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## gaston (Nov 7, 2014)

I have a old Crapsmen 10" table saw set up just to cut AL. It has a carbide 80 tooth blade and I have a "sled" I can clamp the work to that rides in the miter slot. 
I have cut 2 1/2" plate with ease. I also have a vertical band saw and I feel the table saw is safer to cut the thicker stuff on. the band saw takes a lot more time and  pressure to make the cut and its a lot harder keeping things straight. always wear an apron and face shield and NEVER gloves.(you can feel the action of the AL. and heat better), and bare handed, you always know where your hands are. I also have a Milwaukee metal cutting skill saw I use for steel, and it scares the hell out of me!!


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## francist (Nov 7, 2014)

[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]Hi guys, I've been watching this thread grow for some time but have stayed out. Not because I had no experience, but because probably all of my experience was the wrong kind.[/COLOR][COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]
[/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]I worked as a glazier for five years, building greenhouses, windows, etc. Cutting aluminum was a daily thing, sometimes all day, sometimes all night. I was a kid, 19, and the operation was small -- just me and my boss most times. We built good stuff, and we were proud of it.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]
[/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]I'd go home a night with my arms peppered with tiny red slashes from the little flakes of 6061 that were propelled with rocket speed out of the table saw. Sometimes they'd stick in my face. Sometimes we'd feed backwards climbing the blade because the extrusion wouldn't lie nice against the fence any other way. It was a fight to see if we could outmuscle the saw. But we did it and we were proud of the job. Five years, long time ago.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]
[/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]None of this babble tells you much, nor does it answer any of your questions. I knew I couldn't do that, I'm having enough trouble writing this as it is. But a few minutes ago I found this blade lying on a dark shelf under a layer of dust behind my drill press, my bosses old drill press from the shop. I didn't think I still had it. [/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]
[/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]It was our good blade, a Disston high speed steel, hollow ground sides, 0.90" thick at the teeth, and made for cutting aluminum. It was a hundred dollar blade back then. One day my boss was cutting a bracket out of 1/8" angle, pretty short for the Makita miter saw but heck, we did it all the time. [/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]
[/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]The bang was really loud when the saw caught the angle and ripped it out of his hands. It almost flipped the saw over backwards, in fact. I can still hear it, like a grenade going off or so I would imagine a grenade might sound like.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]
[/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]



[/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]It was a darn fine blade, our good one.

-frank[/COLOR]


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## francist (Nov 7, 2014)

Oops, ipad did something funny with formatting my post and I don't know what. Sorry guys.

-frank


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## Bill Gruby (Nov 8, 2014)

francist said:


> Oops, ipad did something funny with formatting my post and I don't know what. Sorry guys.
> 
> -frank



  Not to worry Frank, that picture says it all. Thank you.

 "Billy G"


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## Bill Gruby (Nov 9, 2014)

To all members;

 I was going to post a summation of what is in this thread but thanks to Frank, I don't need to.

 "Billy G"


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## f350ca (Nov 9, 2014)

joebiplane said:


> I was told that we could cut sheet steel siding with a Skil saw  "BUT WE HAD TO REVERSE THE BLADE"
> Would this hold true for aluminium ???   and perhaps reduce the chips that my table say produses when cutting  alum material ??
> Just wondering !
> Joe



I've heard of reversing a blade to cut sheet metal but they are referring to a fine toothed plane steel blade, NOT CARBIDE. I use a special fit for purpose blade in the skill saw when cutting steel roofing. They're about 5 inch dia (reduces sfpm) all steel with teeth that have a slight negative cutting angle to stop grabbing. They cut great, very little burring, and cut an incredible amount of material per blade.

Greg


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## Bill Gruby (Nov 9, 2014)

f350ca said:


> I've heard of reversing a blade to cut sheet metal but they are referring to a fine toothed plane steel blade, NOT CARBIDE. I use a special fit for purpose blade in the skill saw when cutting steel roofing. They're about 5 inch dia (reduces sfpm) all steel with teeth that have a slight negative cutting angle to stop grabbing. They cut great, very little burring, and cut an incredible amount of material per blade.
> 
> Greg



 My son in law is a contractor. The reverse an 80 tooth blade to cut siding. They do this so it will not damage the siding at the end of the cut. Don't for any reason reverse the blade in the table saw. When the blade is reversed only the very tip (high point) is cutting.

 "Billy G"


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## sniggler (Dec 10, 2014)

I built a number of skiffs out of .125 and .090 5052 aluminum sheet stock and used a regular cheap carbide tipped blade wood blade in a circular saw and a table saw for cutting. I have used a dedicated aluminum blade and it was just not worth it. 

Aluminum cuts pretty much like plywood glasses and a face shield always be prepared for a kick backs.  

Bob


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## P.K. (Dec 10, 2014)

Well, I guess I'm the careless type.
Here I am cutting 20mm thick aluminum with my cheap circular saw using a carbide tipped blade ment for cutting wood.
Like a hot knife through butter


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## road (Dec 10, 2014)

+
I just found this thread.   
My god.  
To use a power tool or equipment for some thing it is not intended ? 

Granted I have used a scroll saw for thin alu.   

Table saws and Skill saws scare the heck out of me,  ( seen an accident in high school shop class not pretty.. )

IMO   this is like using a framing hammer As a center punch.  

I shudder to think of the injuries.....


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## Downwindtracker2 (Dec 10, 2014)

If you cut aluminum with a skilsaw, it dulls standard 24T blades pretty quick. On thin sheets, Zip-Cuts work ,too.


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