# Help In Choosing A Grooving Tool



## ddickey (Oct 29, 2016)

I plan on making this machinist hammer. I need to get a tool that can cut the radius shown. 4.7mm or 3/16". I do not have a grinder yet so I can't make my own tool. I do have some insert holders though. Or if someone could suggest another way to make this other that a radius/groove. Thanks.


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## Wreck™Wreck (Oct 29, 2016)

Manchester makes excellent profile and grooving tools, if you have to do it often and quickly go here https://www.widia.com/content/dam/k...talogs/WidiaManchester_masterCat_2008_sec.pdf

If you are doing it for yourself then ignore the radii completely, no one is going to measure it and then send it back because it is Non Compliant.

I have worked in machine shops for the last 30 years, what is a Positioning Hammer ?


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## mikey (Oct 29, 2016)

Wreck™Wreck said:


> I have worked in machine shops for the last 30 years, what is a Positioning Hammer ?



Sigh ...just goes to show you what those pro machinists know. A positioning hammer is used to whack the side of the machinist's knee to make him move over to the right angle for turning the saddle hand wheel smoothly. A different position is used to turn the cross feed wheel but you use the other knee for that. Come on, Wreck - even a hobby machinist knows that!


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## westsailpat (Oct 29, 2016)

Um I used to know what a positioning hammer was .


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## ddickey (Oct 29, 2016)

French Canadians.


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## mikey (Oct 29, 2016)

ddickey said:


> French Canadians.



Bald headed ones ...


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## mikey (Oct 29, 2016)

You might consider a HSS P-5 parting blade. It is 3/16" wide and the corners can be shaped with diamond stones. That would give you the shape you need to make a groove.


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## Bob Korves (Oct 29, 2016)

I think a positioning hammer is something you use to whack parts to make them move to where you want them to be...  
Edit: Also known as BFH on more difficult work...


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## ddickey (Oct 29, 2016)

mikey said:


> You might consider a HSS P-5 parting blade. It is 3/16" wide and the corners can be shaped with diamond stones. That would give you the shape you need to make a groove.


The radius is .187" but I would need a .375" diameter blade, correct?


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## JimDawson (Oct 29, 2016)

3/8, 2 flute ball end mill, or 3/8 round nose router bit is what I would use.  I use those for lathe tools all the time.


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## Tony Wells (Oct 29, 2016)

Take a 3/8" single end endmill and grind some top relief on it and drill amd ream a hole at the correct angle in a piece of steel that will fit your holder and with the end mill "on end" it will cut close enough to the right radius. You can use set screws to hold the end mill in place or silver solder it;


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## mikey (Oct 29, 2016)

ddickey said:


> The radius is .187" but I would need a .375" diameter blade, correct?



I misunderstood. I took this to mean the groove would be 3/16" wide.


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## Chipper5783 (Oct 30, 2016)

That is not a precision feature.  Rough it in with your regular tooling, making steps.  Then use a round file, followed buy some abrasive paper on some rounded wood.  Compare against a tedious gauge (even just a scrap of 3/8" bar).


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## ddickey (Oct 30, 2016)

mikey said:


> I misunderstood. I took this to mean the groove would be 3/16" wide.


 If you look at the print it says R4.7 which i understand to mean radius, so that would be 3/16" or a diameter of 3/8".
Thanks all for the suggestions.


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## higgite (Oct 30, 2016)

I'm no expert on the Canadian language, but I think the drawing title is misspelled. Shouldn't it be "positionning hammmer?"

Tom


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## Jimsehr (Oct 30, 2016)

You are going to need a grinder to grind tools ,so I would buy one now. It might cost more to buy the insert tool than the grinder. And that size radius is not often  used in a home shop.
Jimsehr


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## jpfabricator (Oct 30, 2016)

Rough it with the point of your insert tool, color it with a sharpie maker, then finish with a chainsaw file of your diameter choice. When the colors gone, stop.

Sent from somwhere in east Texas by Jake!


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## Wreck™Wreck (Oct 30, 2016)

higgite said:


> I'm no expert on the Canadian language, but I think the drawing title is misspelled. Shouldn't it be "positionning hammmer?"
> 
> Tom


Canadian English is often patois much like US English, it should be spelled Pistoning (-:


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## mikey (Oct 30, 2016)

higgite said:


> I'm no expert on the Canadian language, but I think the drawing title is misspelled. Shouldn't it be "positionning hammmer?"
> 
> Tom



Deleted insensitive remark.


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## ddickey (Oct 30, 2016)

Take off, eh?


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## mikey (Oct 30, 2016)

You know, for a decorative radius like this I would just do it with gravers myself. In the time it takes to read this whole thread I could have done on groove already.


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## ddickey (Oct 30, 2016)

I think I may have some thanks to Billh50.


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## kingmt01 (Oct 31, 2016)

JimDawson said:


> 3/8, 2 flute ball end mill, or 3/8 round nose router bit is what I would use.  I use those for lathe tools all the time.
> 
> View attachment 138333


How do you get the fallowing side to cut. I used the end of drills to bore holes bigger but I can't grasps this. I'm only using one side of the drill.


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## JimDawson (Oct 31, 2016)

kingmt01 said:


> How do you get the fallowing side to cut. I used the end of drills to bore holes bigger but I can't grasps this. I'm only using one side of the drill.



I'm only using one flute of the end mill, you can also use a round nose router bit


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## kingmt01 (Oct 31, 2016)

OK
That I can understand. I thought you were plunging it.

Thanks


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