# New PM-935T-V Milling Machine has arrived



## riveter (May 12, 2022)

It is a good day. My new knee mill has made it safely to the ground and into my garage thanks to a nice driver, a big lift gate, and a motorized pallet jack.
I have been using milling machines on and off for 30 years and few days have gone by without thoughts of a Bridgeport mill in my garage. That never happened but many years ago I did buy a round column 'complex machine', a well used Jet brand Rong Fu mill drill with no DRO. I have suffered through some unpleasant hours trying to hold close tolerances in three dimensions using dial indicators on that machine. Now that I am retired, I have found my 'One Machine to Rule Them All'. And while it is not a Bridgeport, I feel good about it. I warmed up to the idea of a Precision Matthews machine because of the community of users online. There is nothing quite like that with other brands.
Over the next few days I will be inspecting it and preparing to lift it. I have a 2 ton engine crane on the way and a toe jack. And I plan on making a steel base to lift it up 7 inches or so. I am 6'1" tall and I want it to be a comfortable height. What are some of the things particular to this machine I should be on the lookout for as I inspect it?

Here are some pictures from today's delivery. More to come.


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## Aukai (May 12, 2022)

There are many ways to skin this cat as you know, here is my rendition. 6 x 6 square tubing that will have leveling feet added. I'm not able to finish this project right now, but this is the idea.


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## riveter (May 12, 2022)

Aukai said:


> There are many ways to skin this cat as you know, here is my rendition. 6 x 6 square tubing that will have leveling feet added. I'm not able to finish this project right now, but this is the idea.


What wall thickness is your 6x6 tubing?


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## Aukai (May 12, 2022)

1/4", my foot pads are different from yours.


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## Tipton1965 (May 12, 2022)

Here's a simple method that I used to lift my mill.


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## riveter (May 12, 2022)

Tipton1965 said:


> Here's a simple method that I used to lift my mill.
> 
> View attachment 406832


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## riveter (May 12, 2022)

Tipton1965 said:


> Here's a simple method that I used to lift my mill.
> 
> View attachment 406832


I like that. I want to make the stance wide enough to get a pallet jack under it if I had to. Those look like 2x4 tubing. I would probably need that plus a 4x4 to get the 935 high enough.


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## jarhead (May 12, 2022)

nice machine!


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## MikeWi (May 13, 2022)

Tipton1965 said:


> Here's a simple method that I used to lift my mill.
> 
> View attachment 406832


Is that a workshop or a museum?


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## Tipton1965 (May 13, 2022)

MikeWi said:


> Is that a workshop or a museum?


Trust me it gets used.


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## MikeWi (May 13, 2022)

Now that's more like it! Still cleaner than mine most days...


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## Tipton1965 (May 13, 2022)

MikeWi said:


> Now that's more like it! Still cleaner than mine most days...


I have made some T-Slot covers since that photo was taken.  No more newspaper.


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## riveter (May 14, 2022)

I want to rotate the mill head to the upright position. The user manual says:


> If it is necessary to swivel the head for hoisting purposes, partially loosen the four head mounting bolts, Figure 2-1, while supporting the head to prevent sudden movement. Continue supporting the head while using a wrench on hex head #1, Figure 2-2, to crank the head to the desired position.


How do I do this without damaging anything? I am working alone, so all I can think of is using a shop crane and strap to support the motor while I loosen the four bolts and crank it into the upright position. Is there a better way?


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## jarhead (May 14, 2022)

There should be 4 bolts holding it in place. There will be a 5th bolt that you turn to move the head.

Although I have a Grizzly I used my left hand to push/steady the head up and the right to ratchet the bolt that moves the head. One direction turns the worm gear up (moving the head), the other moves it down.


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## Firstram (May 14, 2022)

Loosen the 4 bolts on the column and rotate everything 90° to the left so the head is over the side of the mill. Not reaching over the table makes it easier to lift. With the 4 head bolts slacked off you should be able to push up with your left hand while turning the worm to bring the head up. It isn't that bad and can be done in stages to rest if needed. The gear will support the static weight just fine if you need to stop.


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## Firstram (May 14, 2022)

You can also crank the table all the way to the right for counterweight, if you're concerned.


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## mksj (May 14, 2022)

I would read the manual. There are 4 long bolts (red) that you slightly loosen on the front of the head, the head is geared so it should not move when front bolts are loosed. There is a bolt head (blue) which is turned in either direction to raise/lower the head. Attach a ratchet socket wrench with a small extension, lift the head with one hand and ratchet  with the other, and/or use an electric socket wrench. You will need to tram the head in both X and Y directions, just lightly loosen the appropriate set of securing nuts, tweak the head position and tighten, then recheck tram as it will change. Both the nod (purple and green) and the tilt (red and blue) of the head are geared mechanical drive.


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## riveter (May 14, 2022)

I got the head upright by putting some tension on it with the crane while I turned the worm screw. I just backed out the four locking bolts enough to move it.





It's a beautiful thing.


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## riveter (May 14, 2022)

mksj said:


> I would read the manual. There are 4 long bolts (red) that you slightly loosen on the front of the head, the head is geared so it should not move when front bolts are loosed. There is a bolt head (blue) which is turned in either direction to raise/lower the head. Attach a ratchet socket wrench with a small extension, lift the head with one hand and ratchet  with the other, and/or use an electric socket wrench. You will need to tram the head in both X and Y directions, just lightly loosen the appropriate set of securing nuts, tweak the head position and tighten, then recheck tram as it will change. Both the nod (purple and green) and the tilt (red and blue) of the head are geared mechanical drive.
> View attachment 406968


Thanks for that great explanation and illustration. This my first knee mill so I am trying to follow the user manual closely.


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## riveter (May 14, 2022)

It is not a good day. While inspecting the milling machine table and tramming the head today I noticed a severed oiler line. When I pull the one shot oiler handle, oil shoots out the severed end. It looks like the line was struck from beneath close to the fitting. Whatever happened, it is cut right off. The crate was fully intact, so I don't think it happened in shipping.


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## Just for fun (May 14, 2022)

Oh man,  it doesn't look like there is enough piping to reattach it either.


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## Tipton1965 (May 14, 2022)

May have to get a new piece of pipe or maybe a threaded extension to thread your existing fitting into.


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## Just for fun (May 14, 2022)

I'm sure Precision Matthews will send you another one,  if they have one in stock.   Other wise...... I'm sure someone sells tubbing like that.


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## Aukai (May 14, 2022)

That looks like it was not from a light bump, that fitting is stretched too.


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## riveter (May 15, 2022)

More photos of the severed oiler line.


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## ConValSam (May 15, 2022)

That sucks. Nothing worse than a pristine new purchase showing a ding so early in your possession.

Good news is that PM will no doubt help you right out: in my experience they are very stand up folks.


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## davidpbest (May 15, 2022)

riveter said:


> More photos of the severed oiler line.


If you have to remove the table to get to the tubing connections, I recommend you seal up the oil pipe connections going into the XY leadscrew nut housing and saddle.  *Here is how* I did mine, and it really helps the oil delivery into the right spot instead of dripping out the bottom of the knee onto the platform base.  You might also flip through *my 935 build log* for other ideas, and DM me if you have any questions.


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## riveter (May 16, 2022)

davidpbest said:


> If you have to remove the table to get to the tubing connections, I recommend you seal up the oil pipe connections going into the XY leadscrew nut housing and saddle.  *Here is how* I did mine, and it really helps the oil delivery into the right spot instead of dripping out the bottom of the knee onto the platform base.  You might also flip through *my 935 build log* for other ideas, and DM me if you have any questions.


Thank you David. I am going to call P.M. this morning and get their advice on how to proceed.


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## riveter (May 18, 2022)

I spoke to P.M. about my oil line problem. Here is their response:


> The factory is sending you a new oil line and nut. I'll send you the tracking when I get it.


I asked for guidance on removing the table. Here is that reply:


> The line should just be poked thru a hole in the saddle. I don't think they even seal it in place, so that part should be easy. You may even be able to do it without removing the table, but if you do:
> 
> Remove the gib from the table making sure to note exactly how it goes in (one way only). It's brittle, don't drop it.
> Remove the handle assembly from the left side, not the right.
> ...


With these instructions and David's photos, I think I will be fine. And to be honest, I was already a little stressed as to how I was going to IQOQ those oil lines. Now I can seal them and verify they are delivering oil as designed.


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## davidpbest (May 18, 2022)

This may help with your table removal.









						Removing XY Table on PM-935 Knee Mill
					

Explore this photo album by David Best on Flickr!




					www.flickr.com


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## riveter (May 18, 2022)

While I await the arrival of my replacement oil line and nut from the factory, I am continuing my inspection of the PM-935. Today I checked the runout of the spindle.
PM-935 Runout, spindle taper (0.0002"):

__
		https://flic.kr/p/2nmiPUP
PM-935 Runout, P.M. precision collet, 3/8 inch (0.0005"):

__
		https://flic.kr/p/2nmp82t


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## riveter (May 18, 2022)

davidpbest said:


> This may help with your table removal.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks David. Your documentation of this machine has been so helpful.


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## riveter (May 18, 2022)

I inspected the table for flatness with a 4 foot and a 2 foot Starrett straightedge and a 0.0015" feeler gauge. The feeler was a No-Go (Good) all over.









I checked the table for twist with the machinist level. No twist was detected. (Machine is on pallet and not level)


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## riveter (May 18, 2022)

The nameplate had white paint overspray so I peeled off the plastic film and sprayed it with clear acrylic paint. The film was not the 'removable' kind. I had to use alcohol and a plastic scraper to remove it.


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## riveter (May 21, 2022)

I powered up the mill for the first time and ran it through the range in High and Low gear. It sounds normal.

__
		https://flic.kr/p/2nnmoRc


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## sr71xjet (Jun 1, 2022)

riveter said:


> I powered up the mill for the first time and ran it through the range in High and Low gear. It sounds normal.
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/2nnmoRc


Very nice.  You got my curiosity up and I went and measured my runout on my 1054TV.  .0001.  
I am a follower of Abom79 on youtube and he just recently got a KBC Mill and used some CRC Belt Conditioner on it.  Made it quieter.  So i tried it and sure'nuff, it got a lot quieter.


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## riveter (Jun 2, 2022)

sr71xjet said:


> Very nice.  You got my curiosity up and I went and measured my runout on my 1054TV.  .0001.
> I am a follower of Abom79 on youtube and he just recently got a KBC Mill and used some CRC Belt Conditioner on it.  Made it quieter.  So i tried it and sure'nuff, it got a lot quieter.


I need to get a 0.0001 indicator to get a more accurate reading. That is a 0.0005.


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## sr71xjet (Jun 2, 2022)

riveter said:


> I need to get a 0.0001 indicator to get a more accurate reading. That is a 0.0005.


Yeah, got to have some of those in this business.  Hobby or career.......


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## riveter (Jun 8, 2022)

I got the table off and the oil lines exposed. The damaged line goes down into the saddle under the leadscrew nut housing. I am hesitant to remove the housing because I don't know how I would get it correctly aligned for replacement. P.M. parts dept is going to contact the factory for guidance.


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## riveter (Jun 8, 2022)

TABLE LEADSCREW COMPONENTS
Leadscrew bearing bracket dowel pins are not present nor are the holes for them. I don't know about the leadscrew nut housing dowel pin. I'm hesitant to remove it until I hear back from P.M.


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## 7milesup (Jun 8, 2022)

I would say it is going to the knee ways on the right side of the mill, but then again, it is really hard to tell from looking at pictures.

I have *one of these remote cameras from Amazon* just for things like this. It has really been invaluable, especially when working on cars.


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## riveter (Jun 8, 2022)

7milesup said:


> I would say it is going to the knee ways on the right side of the mill, but then again, it is really hard to tell from looking at pictures.
> 
> I have *one of these remote cameras from Amazon* just for things like this. It has really been invaluable, especially when working on cars.


I have one of those I bought several years ago for looking for a plumbing leak in a wall. Thanks for the reminder!


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## riveter (Jun 8, 2022)

Here is my base design. It will elevate the machine 7 inches. I'm 6'1" and it will be at a good working height and still allow me to reach the drawbar. The design allows me to get a pallet jack under it. The parts are nearly finished and I will post post photos soon.


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## davidpbest (Jun 8, 2022)

Mine had no dowel pins either.   You will have to remove the split-nut yoke (#22) to get to the oil line that feeds the Y-axis split-nut.  These videos describe the realignment process.

*One*

*Two*

*Three*


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## davidpbest (Jun 8, 2022)

The oil line that you point to that dives down into the saddle is the one that supplies oil to the Y-axis split-nut.   You can see it from under the knee looking upward through the opening in the underside of the knee.   






To get at it, you will have to remove the Split-nut yoke assembly from above the saddle.  There isn't enough access room through the bottom of the knee to get into that area to insert the oil line into the Split-nut yoke.  This is all fully documented in *this series* of photos/videos which I posted about earlier.  

Once again, I recommend you seal up all the oil tubes where they enter the castings at each lube point - otherwise, half the oil you pump into the system will squirt out of the oil line fitting and drip out the bottom of the knee.  If you wanted to do a complete job of it, you can order the parts from *H&W Machine Repair* that will provide actual screw-in end-fittings (Zerks) for each oil line but you'd also need to convert from aluminum to impregnated plastic oil lines.


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## riveter (Jun 9, 2022)

davidpbest said:


> The oil line that you point to that dives down into the saddle is the one that supplies oil to the Y-axis split-nut.   You can see it from under the knee looking upward through the opening in the underside of the knee.
> 
> View attachment 409521
> 
> ...


Well that takes all the mystery out of it. Now I just have to do the work. And I will definitely seal up those tubes entry points. Thanks David!


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## riveter (Jun 9, 2022)

I'm replacing the damaged oil line and I see that the accessible ones were sealed at the factory.


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## riveter (Jun 23, 2022)

I got the base finished and mounted. Oil line replacement is done. Table is back in place. Tomorrow I will level the machine and tram the head. Next comes the DRO install and X Axis motor drive install.


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## riveter (Jun 23, 2022)

Mill is trammeled and 6" 690X milling machine vise is mounted.


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## Tipton1965 (Jun 23, 2022)

The stand looks good.  Very stout!


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## 7milesup (Jun 23, 2022)

Excellent!  
I had to look that brand of vise up, never heard of it before.  Let us know how you like it.


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## jarhead (Jun 23, 2022)

riveter said:


> I got the base finished and mounted. Oil line replacement is done. Table is back in place. Tomorrow I will level the machine and tram the head. Next comes the DRO install and X Axis motor drive install.
> View attachment 410987


Nice work on the base/feet !


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## riveter (Aug 8, 2022)

7milesup said:


> Excellent!
> I had to look that brand of vise up, never heard of it before.  Let us know how you like it.


The vise is great. No complaints.
Tegara Vise Model 690X from Shars


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## riveter (Aug 8, 2022)

I got the DRO installed. MAGXACT MX-200M MAGNETIC 3 AXIS MILL DRO – 12X24X20 INCH SCALES. It is Working fine. Took a while to install, but worth the effort. Overall, the mill is working well and doing accurate work.


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## JMBrewer (Aug 8, 2022)

You used 3/16 wall 3x5 rectangular tubing for your base? Thought that was what your drawing showed. Love you base design


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## riveter (Aug 8, 2022)

JMBrewer said:


> You used 3/16 wall 3x5 rectangular tubing for your base? Thought that was what your drawing showed. Love you base design


Right. And the 3x5 sits on 2x5 which sits on the leveling feet. I'm 6'1" so I elevated it about 7 inches.


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## mikesmith (Aug 9, 2022)

MikeWi said:


> Is that a workshop or a museum?


I though the same haha


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