# Opinions on the Grizzly 10x22 lathe?



## HMF

What do you guys think of the Grizzly 10x22 GR0602 lathe?


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## TAWP Tool

I have a Grizzly 10x22 and so far I am impressed. In the past I owned a HF 7x10, Enco 9x20 and another HF 9x20 (besides a couple of South Bend Heavy Tens). The 10x22 beats the other import lathes hands down. Not only in the obvious capacity increases, but build quality is higher and it seems that it was better engineered than the others I've owned. Compared to the 9x20 import lathes, the 10x22 is a class above. I enjoyed the 9x20 lathes and learned a lot in the process, but the 10x22 is so much more robust.

Until I can find the right Logan 11" lathe at the right price, my 10x22 is a keeper!


PaulT - I added a thrust bearing to my compound that almost eliminated backlash. You can see my amateur video of the bearing and a video of the installation via the links below. Don't laugh too hard! Just keep in mind that I am neither a Machinist nor a Videographer. lol

Guy in Sacramento

Bearing video:
[video=youtube;DtGN8G1wMoA] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtGN8G1wMoA [/video]

And the installation of it here:
[video=youtube;fUBOxPSyFSw] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUBOxPSyFSw [/video]


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## pdentrem

Good videos! Watched them all. Thanks


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## TAWP Tool

Paul,

The mod was easy for me, so even a monkey should be able to do it. lol

Plus, it was well worth doing!

Email me if I can be of any help.

Guy


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## Loafy

I'm very happy with my G0602 lathe.
I designed and built a reverse tumbler gear set for my lathe. I've also designed and built a speed reducer for my lathe. You can see both mods. on this forum.
I'm wanting to either build or buy a quick change tool post. I've built a lantern tool post for the G0602, its I guess old school but works good.
The plans for the reverse tumbler gear set is on "projects in metal" forum look in general discussion for "reverse for G0602". I used a welder in a couple of spots but a guy should be able to make it work with out welding. The reversing gears are out of a small lawn mower engine and should be easy to find. The same gears are used for the speed reducer.
The speed reducer is built from home cast frames using small engine timing gears, home cast pulley blanks all machined on the G0602 lathe. I don't have plans for the prototype I built, as I plan on making it different, easier to build.


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## blame582

hey Norman ill be happy to work up the plans for your speed reducer when u get the final version done.

i built my reverse tumbler with out welding thou i wish i was able to use a welder i just dont have one i can use right now 

Blame


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## Loafy

PaulT
there is a crude deltacad drawing of the speed reducer, only one measurement is called out to get you going, I did of the newer design at "projects in metal" forum. Plus some info/ bs on the gearing.No reason to wait jump in and start building. You will need to find a couple of trashed small engines and use the gears for your speed reducer.


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## Photoflo915

Nelson said:


> What do you guys think of the Grizzly 10x22 GR0602 lathe?


Looks Nice.
i will be getting one myself..This would be my first metal lathe so i hope this will be a good investment
Thanks,Ed


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## Photoflo915

a milling machine


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## RJSakowski

Loafy said:


> I'm very happy with my G0602 lathe.
> I designed and built a reverse tumbler gear set for my lathe. I've also designed and built a speed reducer for my lathe. You can see both mods. on this forum.
> I'm wanting to either build or buy a quick change tool post. I've built a lantern tool post for the G0602, its I guess old school but works good.
> The plans for the reverse tumbler gear set is on "projects in metal" forum look in general discussion for "reverse for G0602". I used a welder in a couple of spots but a guy should be able to make it work with out welding. The reversing gears are out of a small lawn mower engine and should be easy to find. The same gears are used for the speed reducer.
> The speed reducer is built from home cast frames using small engine timing gears, home cast pulley blanks all machined on the G0602 lathe. I don't have plans for the prototype I built, as I plan on making it different, easier to build.


Be careful using gears from small engines.  The Briggs and Stratton gears, for one, are Imperial gears and the gears on the G0602 are metric.  It's close to a match but not quite.  The 602 gears are mod 1.5 and the B & S gears have a diametral pitch of 16 which would be equivalent to a mod 1.5875.  Mixing the two will rapidly wear the gear train with the steel B & S gears winning the battle.


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## WarrenP

I have the G0752 which is essentially the same lathe except it has VFD. It's a nice little lathe, I am still considered new to maachining but have made quite a few parts and things with this with no real problems with its performance and its easy to upgrade as a couple people above has given examples of.


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## GunsOfNavarone

Great thread! 


WarrenP said:


> I have the G0752 which is essentially the same lathe except it has VFD. It's a nice little lathe, I am still considered new to maachining but have made quite a few parts and things with this with no real problems with its performance and its easy to upgrade as a couple people above has given examples of.


Hey Warren, how handy is the VFD? I mean, the lathe has speed adjustments and I have heard from other Grizzly 602 owners they really never have a need for it. I am waiting for the 602 to come in On 7/11 (I have prepaid for one) but the DRO (Z version) and the VFD are available now. Really trying to decide between the 3 version s of this machine. I have been told to get the simplest version and spend the extra $ on tooling...opinion?


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## WarrenP

In my opinion I would get the VFD. You need to change the speed on the lathe depending on the type of material and size of material your working with . It is a lot easier to turn a knob to change that speed than to have to change the belt all the time. The G0752 still has 3 different speeds to change a belt for but you rarely have to change the belt if you have the VFD. I don't have the DRO but it definitely would be nice to have that too, and it is nice to have it installed by the factory instead of adding later. But, the DRO would be easier to add later then adding VFD later. It is true you will need some tooling, obviously, but you can probably get by with the minimum of tooling and add this and that as you go. So, to sum it up. I would go with the VFD at least and if you can the DRO. But if you cant get any tooling if you do this then I would put off the DRO until later and get some tooling.


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## GunsOfNavarone

WarrenP said:


> In my opinion I would get the VFD. You need to change the speed on the lathe depending on the type of material and size of material your working with . It is a lot easier to turn a knob to change that speed than to have to change the belt all the time. The G0752 still has 3 different speeds to change a belt for but you rarely have to change the belt if you have the VFD. I don't have the DRO but it definitely would be nice to have that too, and it is nice to have it installed by the factory instead of adding later. But, the DRO would be easier to add later then adding VFD later. It is true you will need some tooling, obviously, but you can probably get by with the minimum of tooling and add this and that as you go. So, to sum it up. I would go with the VFD at least and if you can the DRO. But if you cant get any tooling if you do this then I would put off the DRO until later and get some tooling.


See, based on my limited knowledge, I understood the gear changes more for SCREW/BOLTS TPI (speed of table/cutter moving towards chuck) there are speed controls for Chuck rotation speed on control panel. This is how it was explained to me by someone who owns a G0602. There are great options out there, I i got to a point where this upgrade is only $300 & this one is $500 & it's better to start with this machine as a starting model, so $1800 turns into 3o really easy and I still need to get a mill and tooling now. (I sold a 500 hp 350z i built, I have money set aside for everything) i have money burning a hole and am TRYING to be patient and make good decisions, but the kid in me says "JUST ORDER SOMETHING NOW!!!"


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## WarrenP

The only way to change the spindle speed on the g0602 is with the belts, on a vfd machine you can use a knob on the panel to change the spindle speeds. 
To change the threads per inch speeds you have to change some gears and move the 2 dials on the front of the lathe, depending on what you want.


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## Mitch Alsup

When you change the speed with belts and gears you retain the same HP at all speeds.
When you change the speed with a VFD you lose HP below a certain RPM (2/3rds max)


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## GunsOfNavarone

Well that's not a good selling point. Seriously though, how long does it take to change belts? 2 minutes? 10 minutes? I can deal with 2...10 is a deal killer.


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## Mitch Alsup

On my Taig micro lathe I change the belts in 10 seconds.
On my 12-36 I change spindle speeds in 5 seconds, and carriage speeds in 10 seconds.


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## GunsOfNavarone

Mitch Alsup said:


> On my Taig micro lathe I change the belts in 10 seconds.
> On my 12-36 I change spindle speeds in 5 seconds, and carriage speeds in 10 seconds.


Man! Must sound like an F-1 pit crew in your shop!


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## Mitch Alsup

GunsOfNavarone said:


> Man! Must sound like an F-1 pit crew in your shop!



a) Throw lever to stop spindle,
b) change gear selection switches
b) Throw level to start spindle.

Not much to it really.


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## WarrenP

Yes, Mitch is correct... when you use the vfd to slow down the motor it will lose low end torque. So, if you were to slow it down quite q bit you should change the belt to a lower seed also if you need the low end torque. It is only needed if your doing something that will require alot of power when turning slowly, like knurling, etc. Normally you can just use the vfd especially if your not changing speeds from the high end to the low end. All depends on how much power your going to need when slowing down the motor.
Changing the belt on a G0602 or G0752 just requires opening the side cover, loosening the pressure roller and change the belt position... Not much really but when all you have to do is turn a knob for most things it is a difference. I use the vfd most of the time only, like I say unless I need the higher torque at a lower speed.
Of course if you want to change the tpi then you have to change a gear also... that takes a bit more time and learning which gear to change. But, how often will you make threads? I think just once in a while for most people. Probably realistically you will just use a made screw for most things unless a special part needs threads.


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## GunsOfNavarone

That doesn't sound too bad, I'm guessing normally belt changes are needed that often OR, you really don't need to swap back and forth in one project...I guess I won't spend the money on the VFD, maybe the DRO is money better spent.


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## WarrenP

Well, everytime you work on a different metal or different diameter you will need to change the spindle speed. It saves alot of time to just move the knob to fine tune the speed to get a good cut instead of changing a belt all the time. The Go602 has 6 different speeds , i think, which doesnt give you alot of choices to fine tune the speed and takes up your time changing belts. On one project you will probably using more than one diameter of metal. To me its very convenient to be able to change the speed so easily. When metal is 2 inches in diameter you will need to use a different speed than a 1 inch diameter piece. If cutting steel it will require a different speed than aluminum, etc. If you are working on piece of metal where part of it will be 1 3/4 in diameter and part of it will be 1/2 inch you will need to change speeds to get the best cut.
As far as the DRO they are nice but unless you are doing ultra precision work (which you probably wouldnt be doing much on a G0602 machine) it is not really needed. Dont misunderstand me, I plan on adding a DRO sometime in the future myself but pretty much only for conveinence and fun as I can get by without it.  Seems it is easier to add a DRO later than add VFD. I think I would rather have a factory installed VFD. But, to each his own. My 2 cents worth anyway. Have  Fun. Warren


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## TerryH

Question for you guys that have these lathes. There is a guy in my area that has a G9972Z for sale. It was purchased at the Grizzly tent sale. Had a damaged gear cover that he repaired and repainted. He has been through the machine and it is in new working order. He's asking $1200.00 for it which seems like a pretty decent deal. I have a G8988 mini now. How much of an upgrade would the G9972Z be?


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## tcarrington

TerryH -- when I was looking, I considered the g9972Z. Got the G0602 because I got a great deal in a similar situation to what you describe. Given the circumstance, I would get the G9972Z. Having cross slide power feed is a real plus. As I recall, the two lathes are substantially similar and chances are low that one will do something the other won't outside of length. 
That said, outside of having a VFD, there isn't a strong case for the G0602/G0752.
I have been very pleased with the G0602 - a famous movie character said that you have to know the liimitations.


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## Mitch Alsup

GunsOfNavarone said:


> That doesn't sound too bad, I'm guessing normally belt changes are needed that often OR, you really don't need to swap back and forth in one project...I guess I won't spend the money on the VFD, maybe the DRO is money better spent.



For roughing cuts, I like to take a deep cut, fast transit speed, at moderate spindle speed.
For finishing cuts, I like to take shallower cut, slower transit speed at higher spindle speed (and with a smaller nose radius on the tool.)

DRO is a lot more valuable on the Mill than on the Lathe.


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## MSD0

GunsOfNavarone said:


> See, based on my limited knowledge, I understood the gear changes more for SCREW/BOLTS TPI (speed of table/cutter moving towards chuck) there are speed controls for Chuck rotation speed on control panel. This is how it was explained to me by someone who owns a G0602. There are great options out there, I i got to a point where this upgrade is only $300 & this one is $500 & it's better to start with this machine as a starting model, so $1800 turns into 3o really easy and I still need to get a mill and tooling now. (I sold a 500 hp 350z i built, I have money set aside for everything) i have money burning a hole and am TRYING to be patient and make good decisions, but the kid in me says "JUST ORDER SOMETHING NOW!!!"


Have you considered the PM-1022V? It’s basically the same machine, but comes with power cross and longitudinal feed, QCTP, etc.


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## GunsOfNavarone

I did....after many conversations with people, I was convinced I needed the Griz. I did opt for the DRO as that is a comfort zone for me. The kid in me won early this morning. Many mods available for it.....and I LOVE modding things!


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## Mitch Alsup

Congratulations and good luck.


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## GunsOfNavarone

I’m getting the PM727 so take this with a grain of salt, but the biggest complaint I hear from PM users is the wait if something isn’t in stock...this included parts. Keeping my fingers crossed.


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## GunsOfNavarone

Unloading and setting up! I have come to the conclusion that before I order the mill, I need to have a sit down with my wife in regards to "her" parking spot in the garage. If I no longer post here, please contact the authorities.


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## hman

Ouch!  Best wishes.


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## Mitch Alsup

Should not that last sentence read  "what remains of her parking space".


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## TerryH

Just for the record, my wife has never parked indoors in the 34 years we have been together. Priorities man. Priorities.


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## GunsOfNavarone

TerryH said:


> Just for the record, my wife has never parked indoors in the 34 years we have been together. Priorities man. Priorities.


Not all heros wear capes, but I'm not considering using the "but Terry get his whole garage" defense, but quietly, you are my hero.


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## TerryH

GunsOfNavarone said:


> Not all heros wear capes, but I'm not considering using the "but Terry get his whole garage" defense, but quietly, you are my hero.



You sir are apparently easily amused. 

Congrats on the lathe BTW.


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## Rellortnoc

WarrenP said:


> Yes, Mitch is correct... when you use the vfd to slow down the motor it will lose low end torque. So, if you were to slow it down quite q bit you should change the belt to a lower seed also if you need the low end torque. It is only needed if your doing something that will require alot of power when turning slowly, like knurling, etc. Normally you can just use the vfd especially if your not changing speeds from the high end to the low end. All depends on how much power your going to need when slowing down the motor.
> Changing the belt on a G0602 or G0752 just requires opening the side cover, loosening the pressure roller and change the belt position... Not much really but when all you have to do is turn a knob for most things it is a difference. I use the vfd most of the time only, like I say unless I need the higher torque at a lower speed.
> Of course if you want to change the tpi then you have to change a gear also... that takes a bit more time and learning which gear to change. But, how often will you make threads? I think just once in a while for most people. Probably realistically you will just use a made screw for most things unless a special part needs threads.



I plan on buying 3 phase motor and VFD for my G0602 in the near future. To mitigate the low speed loss of torque on my 2 x 72 belt grinder, I use a 1725 rpm motor at 120Hz. This gives 3450 rpm and around 4000 fpm on the belt. When I need a slower speed I still have the rated torque of the motor. I will use some variation of this concept for the lathe. But I will retain part of the belt/pulley system so the motor can run faster to compensate for the loss of torque issue. Often your VFD will have settings that help the low speed torque issue. Mine on the grinder does. It’s a LAPOND brand VFD and quite complicated. But I took the time to figure it all out and plan to buy the same one for the lathe.


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