# Choose between a Clausing 5400 , Taiwanese 12x36, or something else?



## AndySomogyi (Oct 18, 2019)

Hi, 

I'm shopping for a small/med sized lathe that's compact, and sturdy enough for real work. Both of these are 12" class weigh around 1100 lbs. I found these two within my budget, and they're both a good size for my shop. 

From what I could tell, just from pics, both of these seem to be decent. The Clausing was reportedly only used by a model maker, and *seems* in very good condition. The features I like about the Taiwanese is the gap bed, and metric threading. Eventually, I'll fit an electric lead screw, so moot point, but nice that it does threading now. The Taiwanese made one is a Tida (not familiar with that brand). 

I guess mostly what I'm concerned about is rigidity in a compact machine, condition, and ease of finding parts. 

Is it a big deal that the Tida has separate lead and feed screws? 

Both of these are remote, so I can't inspect them in person, so have to rely on buyer and pics.

Do you guys think either of these are worth buying, or should I look somewhere else. I can get brand new Grizzly 12x24 for $3800, but that's a lot more than these, and the new ones are Chinese, not Taiwanese, and not sure if that makes a difference.

Thanks


----------



## matthewsx (Oct 18, 2019)

Without running them I'd have to say go with the Clausing. 

And yes, Taiwan > China


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD (Oct 18, 2019)

Id take the tida. The clausing looks to have a threaded spindle. The tadi is a gear head lathe and looks to have an L series spindle nose. If condition is similar go with the tida


----------



## Aaron_W (Oct 18, 2019)

Clausing is still around so you can get service support, manuals and such from them for many of their older machines. They have some but not all parts available for out of production machines.

Clausing Industrial


There is a thread here about gap bed lathes. The general consensus I got from that thread from those that have them is that the gap is rarely used. Too much hassle getting everything realigned after removing the plug.  

From the photos it would appear that the Clausing has more tooling?


There are many here that would warn you against buying a machine unseen which seems like good advice to me. Even at a bargain basement price that can be a substantial amount of money for a lathe that size, and if it is really cheap you have to ask why?


----------



## RobertB (Oct 18, 2019)

Tida made these under their name and they were also re-badged for Enco, Contimac, Harbor Freight, Wholesale Machine and others. You couldn't get parts for them 25 years ago, don't like the odds now.


----------



## AndySomogyi (Oct 18, 2019)

RobertB said:


> Tida made these under their name and they were also re-badged for Enco, Contimac, Harbor Freight, Wholesale Machine and others. You couldn't get parts for them 25 years ago, don't like the odds now.



Aren't these 12x36 basically the same as the ones sold by Grizzly today? Wonder if Grizzly parts would work. 

I'm guessing that Clausing used pretty standard sized bearings, and that these bearings are really easy to find. I'm guessing that bearings for the Tida are probably harder to find. 

I like the simplicity of the Clausing, I'm thinking that's a big plus for it.


----------



## matthewsx (Oct 18, 2019)

So, how remote are these machines and why can't you go look before you commit to buy? I guess if I were you I'd ask myself would I be willing to purchase a car of similar price and vintage sight unseen?

There's a reason so many folks are telling you to check the machines out in person, others have gone down this path and ended up with unpleasant surprises. If you physically can't get to where the machines are perhaps someone else on the forum can do it for you, no harm in asking unless you think the deal is so sweet that you'll get beaten out on it.

That being said, if you're going in blind choose the machine built in the US with a manufacturer that's still in business. When (not if) you find out there's a broken/worn part inside it'll be better to have an OEM option for replacement. You might not like the price but chances of it being available are better with the Clausing than a whole lot of other options. 

Cheers,

John


----------



## pdentrem (Oct 18, 2019)

I would go with the Clausing myself.
Pierre


----------



## RobertB (Oct 18, 2019)

AndySomogyi said:


> I'm guessing that Clausing used pretty standard sized bearings, and that these bearings are really easy to find. I'm guessing that bearings for the Tida are probably harder to find.



Bearings aren't usually a problem. It's pretty rare when you can't find a replacement bearing for almost any machine. The problem are the other wearable or breakable parts that are machine specific, like gears, gibs, lead screws, feed screws and nuts, half nuts, etc.


----------



## stioc (Oct 18, 2019)

There are pros and cons to both. At a quick glance the Clausing looks nice and looks to come well equipped with a 5c chuck and a taper cutting attachment.

The 12x36 also looks nice and like you said has separate leadscrew from feedscrew as well as metric thread cutting ability.

The gap bed is one of those things where they seem like a good idea but more often the cross slide range is limited in that it can't reach the outside diameter so you can't face or turn the big part anyway.


----------



## BGHansen (Oct 18, 2019)

I have a similar Clausing (5418).  Mine has a step pulley and no taper attachment, other than that it's the same lathe.  As mentioned above, 2 1/4" x 8 tpi threaded spindle so care is needed when going into reverse.  Also have a Grizzly G0709 14" x 40" lathe or a big brother to your 12 x 36.

I prefer the feel of the Clausing to my Grizzly.  The carriage and compound move smoother.  

If I had to chose between the Grizzly and Clausing, I'd take my Grizzly.  No worries of spinning off the chuck with the D1-5 spindle.  The gear head is nice for speed changes as my Clausing requires deep knee bends to change speeds (one you're looking at as variable speed).  My model has a universal gear box, so turn one knob to switch between English and Metric threads.  You'll probably need to swap around some change gears to flip between E/M with the 12 x 36, but you can do it.  Clausing had a metric change gear kit, but they are extremely hard to find.

Bruce

p.s.  If you have room, maybe buy both?


----------



## pontiac428 (Oct 18, 2019)

The Clausing! No question. Reasons already been covered above.


----------



## AndySomogyi (Oct 18, 2019)

BGHansen said:


> I have a similar Clausing (5418).  Mine has a step pulley and no taper attachment, other than that it's the same lathe.  As mentioned above, 2 1/4" x 8 tpi threaded spindle so care is needed when going into reverse.  Also have a Grizzly G0709 14" x 40" lathe or a big brother to your 12 x 36.
> 
> I prefer the feel of the Clausing to my Grizzly.  The carriage and compound move smoother.
> 
> ...


Thanks! 

The metric out of the box is nice on the Tida, but I'm going to fit an electronic lead screw eventually, so the gear train doesn't really matter. 

I'm definitely leaning towards the Clausing. 

With the threaded spindle, are there any accuracy issues when removing and replacing the chuck, i.e. when you re-attach it, are they still accurately centered? I'm not really sure when I'd want to run it in reverse, like even with left hand threads, with an electronic lead screw, you can still turn them with the lathe going in the forward direction.


----------



## AndySomogyi (Oct 18, 2019)

Thanks guys, based on how I'm interpreting what seems like a consensus here, and the simplicity of the Clausing, I'm 99% leaning in the Clausing direction. However, looking at the pics, one thing seemed odd, check out the angle of this set screw. Wonder if its something to worry about. Suppose I can always make another pulley.


----------



## matthewsx (Oct 18, 2019)

Without putting a wrench on it there's really no telling but I doubt it came that way from the factory. Most likely somebody lost the original and replaced it with one that's too long and it got bent somehow. Will it be a problem I couldn't say, does it show what kind of work has been done to it in the past? Who knows....

If you can find somebody to check it out for you before you buy you will be miles ahead IMHO.

John


----------



## RobertB (Oct 18, 2019)

From this picture it kind of looks like the set screw hole is bored at an angle:




Perhaps ask over in the Clausing forum, someone with a similar model may be able to confirm


----------



## BGHansen (Oct 18, 2019)

AndySomogyi said:


> Thanks!
> 
> The metric out of the box is nice on the Tida, but I'm going to fit an electronic lead screw eventually, so the gear train doesn't really matter.
> 
> ...


No issues with accuracy removing and replacing the chuck. I run my Grizzly in reverse when doing metric threading. Stop the motor, crank the cross slide back, leave the half nut engaged, reverse the motor to the starting point and continue.

You'll really like the Clausing lathe if you go that route. Mine was originally purchased by my dad direct from the factory in Kalamazoo when he was putting together the shop for Waverly High School in Lansing Michigan in around 1963. I picked it up in 1991 when they closed the shop.

Bruce


----------



## AndySomogyi (Oct 18, 2019)

Wow, thanks man!

This forum is awesome! 



RobertB said:


> From this picture it kind of looks like the set screw hole is bored at an angle:
> 
> View attachment 304222
> 
> ...


----------



## Downunder Bob (Oct 19, 2019)

I'n not familiar with Clausing brand lathes, in fact I've never seen on, However I'm very happy with my Taiwan made lath it's 12 x 16 only a short one, but it was good from day one straight out of the box. 3 years later still glad i bought it. While I haven't done a lot of work I have pushed it with some heavy cuts almost to stall point no problems. Things i love 

1. Separate feed shaft and lead screw is always a good idea.

2. Gap some people say they are too hard to realign, It's easy if, before you first remove it, drill and ream two holes for taper pins. then after you've finished the job with gap out make sure the gap and pocket are perfectly clean, replace gap piece and finger tighten bolts then insert taper pins tapping them into place. tighten bolts. Gap will be perfectly aligned. Some lathes are made with these pins, but many are not.

3. full gear head and geared drive to leadscrew and feed shaft are to my mind a great advantage, being Taiwan made it should have the 127 x 120 to the change gears for switching between imperial and metric.

4. Spares. There are so many manufacturers in Taiwan all building essentially the same range of machines many of their parts are interchangeable.


----------



## BGHansen (Oct 19, 2019)

AndySomogyi said:


> Thanks guys, based on how I'm interpreting what seems like a consensus here, and the simplicity of the Clausing, I'm 99% leaning in the Clausing direction. However, looking at the pics, one thing seemed odd, check out the angle of this set screw. Wonder if its something to worry about. Suppose I can always make another pulley.


Mine is bored at an angle also.  Mine has a headless set screw, 1/4" - 20.  The hole is access for oiling the drive pulley which spins freely over the spindle shaft when in back gear.  Naturally have to pull the bull gear pin to separate the bull gear (think that's the term) from the pulley.  Then flip the back gear lever on the head stock to raise the back gear pair into mesh with the two spindle shaft gears on either side of the pulley.

The only thing I've changed on the stock Clausing was the graduated dial screw on the cross feed.  The stock one is a straight-slotted set screw.  So you have to adjust the micrometer dial using a screwdriver.  I made a stainless steel one for the cross feed years ago with a larger knurled knob.  One of these years I'll do the same for the compound micrometer dial.

Bruce



Headless set screw plugs an oil hole for the drive pulley



Yellow paint around the screw is a reminder for me.  I pull the plug and fill with oil every time I use back gear on this lathe.  Have to flip open the head stock cover to pull the bull pin, so easy to remember to oil it up.  There is no relative movement between the pulley and spindle when in direct spindle mode, so not critical to oil it then.



1/4" - 20 screw backed out, clearly tapped at an angle



My micrometer dial locking screw.  There's a brass nub under the screw to protect the cross feed shaft from burring



Stock Clausing adjusting screw on the compound.  Need to use a blade screwdriver to change the setting


----------



## Janderso (Oct 19, 2019)

Clausing +1


----------



## matthewsx (Oct 19, 2019)

AndySomogyi said:


> Thanks guys, based on how I'm interpreting what seems like a consensus here, and the simplicity of the Clausing, I'm 99% leaning in the Clausing direction. However, looking at the pics, one thing seemed odd, check out the angle of this set screw. Wonder if its something to worry about. Suppose I can always make another pulley.



Mystery solved!!!!


----------



## pdentrem (Oct 19, 2019)

I use knurled thumb screws for the dials.
Pierre


----------



## MattM (Oct 19, 2019)

Having owned a Clausing I'd go with it over China iron.


----------



## AndySomogyi (Oct 19, 2019)

I'm a Clausing owner now 

Here's hoping this turns out to be a decent lathe.


----------



## stioc (Oct 19, 2019)

Congrats! Great price for all that tooling included  He also has a clausing mill to go with it


----------



## AndySomogyi (Oct 20, 2019)

stioc said:


> Congrats! Great price for all that tooling included  He also has a clausing mill to go with it



Saw that, I’ve already got something similar. It’s not that great of a mill, but it’s better than no mill. 








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Downunder Bob (Oct 20, 2019)

Nice looking mill, I'd love to have something like that, but just no room. I had to get a short bed lathe, only 16", because of lack of room I guess we just can't have everything we want. If I get rid of the motorbike and trailer I might have enough room, but that's not going to happen for a while.


----------

