# A few more new guy Logan questions.



## John TV (Jun 11, 2017)

I now have upwards of four hours ( yep that new) of actual lathe time on my 1948 mw 2136. I am just starting to figure out what I don't know. These questions probably should be in beginners forum but you folks know Logans so I am back. 

I know this all depends on many factors, so I don't expect specifics on this but what kind of typical depth of cut are you using with my size lathe. I'm thinking of rough cut, 12l14 steel and only 1/2 hp original motor. I am using hss tool bits in a lantern style holder?  Any rules of thumb? 

Obviously I am saving for qctp and inserts but lots of other expenses right now so learning with what I have. 

Second, after doing only two gear changes I realize the value of a quick change gear box, I have regular change gears. Old manuals show gearbox and lead screw option sold as a package. I know they are hard to find but when I search the internet only see gear box without lead screw.  Am I missing something or can you convert the original screw?

Does anyone know what part numbers or model numbers I should be looking for regarding qcgb and lead screw?

Thanks for the continued help. 



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## MBfrontier (Jun 12, 2017)

Hey, JT.

Your best bet would be to start with just turning bar stock and not worry about changing gears for threading, etc. Set up your gears for a relatively slow feed so you get a smooth finish on the work piece. Make sure your HSS cutting tool is ground with an appropriate geometry for turning and is sharp. Then, just set your lantern tool post so the cutting tool is at the right height to intersect the work piece in the middle and have at it. HSS works well for me but there was definitely a learning curve on grinding tool bits properly. I use carbide inserts for roughing cuts on a larger lathe with HSS for finishing.

These lathes are not good at taking really deep cuts and I limit mine to probably no deeper than .020 and less for a good finish and no chatter. Your mileage may vary.

I don't know what tooling you have but if you have just a chuck make the work stick-out short. If you have a live or dead center, center drill the end and use a center.

FWIW, I too realized I wanted a QCGB for my Logan 200 and ended up buying another Logan model 1957 with QCGB, larger spindle, and longer bed. Any nice QCGB's are expensive and I didn't want to spend more money on the 200. I still have the 200 because it has made many new parts for refurbishing my 1957 and made lots of reloading tools like nose punches and case neck expanders, etc.

Good luck with learning about and using your MW2136. I have learned a lot and had a bunch of fun with my Logan 200.

Best regards.

Mike B.


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## John TV (Jun 12, 2017)

Thank you Mike. I have watched a lot of you tube and it has really helped but there is nothing like actual lathe time to make me realize just how much I don't know. I sure am smiling while I learn and wreck perfectly good steel. 

Your advice is well received. And regarding the  qcgb I may end up going down the same path. I do have a bit of attachment to this old lathe since it was my father in laws since it was new. 


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## Nogoingback (Jun 12, 2017)

If what you are thinking of is adding a QCGB to a change gear lathe, here's some info on it from Scott Logan:

http://lathe.com/ll-group-archive/adapting_a_qc_gearbox.html


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## T Bredehoft (Jun 12, 2017)

John TV said:


> I'm thinking of rough cut, 12l14 steel and only 1/2 hp original motor.



12L14, hmmm. figure 120 surface feet per minute, .005 feed rate, as deep as you want, up to the width of the tool. Well, maybe not that deep. but .050 on a side.  We used to call that leadloy, it cuts like plastic. That speed and depth of cut will spray chips like from a water hose.


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## Uglydog (Jun 12, 2017)

Please only consider adding the QCGB after you've got everything else figured out.
You will learn heaps by hand feeding.
Same with the lantern and the QCTP. 
When you decide you want a QCTP consider purchasing a very good quality post. 
If you want you can come up to my shop. You can cut your own holders on my mill in whatever size you want to fit that post.
I've also got an extra collet system if you want it.

Daryl
MN


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## John TV (Jun 12, 2017)

Nogoingback said:


> If what you are thinking of is adding a QCGB to a change gear lathe, here's some info on it from Scott Logan:
> 
> http://lathe.com/ll-group-archive/adapting_a_qc_gearbox.html



Great info on qcgb. Thank you!


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## John TV (Jun 12, 2017)

Uglydog said:


> Please only consider adding the QCGB after you've got everything else figured out.
> You will learn heaps by hand feeding.
> Same with the lantern and the QCTP.
> When you decide you want a QCTP consider purchasing a very good quality post.
> ...



I would love to see your shop and maybe pick up a few pointers too. Not sure I even know exactly what to ask yet. 

Regarding your advise, it will be awhile before I even consider looking for a qcgb. I have many lessons to learn first and quite honestly other equipment to buy. And I'm thinking any gear change time is just paying my dues to old school ways, I do hope I speed up a bit in changing them though. First time reminded me a little of the twit races on monte python!


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