# Atlas Th48 or Logan 200



## borjawil (Feb 1, 2017)

Looking at these two lathes. Both are in similar condition and priced relatively the same at around 600-700. Just wondering what others think on them, their pros and cons, etc. I am new to lathes so keep that in mind. I plan on turning spacers, bushings motorcycle steering stems, drilling out camshafts (18" long), and maybe new projects in the future. Thanks for all the help.


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## Randall Marx (Feb 1, 2017)

I'm not familiar with the Logan, but have a similar Atlas. The Atlas has a 3/4" bore through the spindle, which will limit the size of workpiece that you can put through the headstock. This will be somewhat restrictive, especially for the project you mentioned with boring a camshaft. It has a total bed length of 48 inches. This equates to 30 inches between centers. That will likely be right at the limit for drilling a part 18 inches long (assuming that you will flip it and drill from each end). These are not the most rigid machines, but they are far from useless. Much great quality work has been done and continues to be done with them. One just needs to understand the physical limitations of the machine and work within those limits. Being a TH machine, it will use change gears for threading and for feeding longitudinally. Make sure you get a complete set of those with the machine, as a set can cost around $200 used. My Atlas uses the change gears as well. It takes more time to setup if you need to change feed rate or thread pitch, but it also gives you an chance to inspect the gear train and clean/lube it. If the $6-700 price includes accessories and tooling, that would be a good deal for a machine in good shape.
Good luck!
-Randall


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## borjawil (Feb 1, 2017)

This is a question I've posted before on the spindle side. Why can I just put one end of the cam or bar stock in the chuck and have a tool rest to help?

Logan is dirty and needs to be cleaned up, been sitting. Comes with extra gears (not sure if full set), rest, point thing (cone) for the tail stock, and some other stuff. waiting on more info on what acc are included.

Atlas seems to have been regularly used before sitting for a few years, but no pics. Includes 3-jaw chuck 1 1/2 " x 8 TPI Spindle, drill chuck, and only the gears on it. May have other tooling but they guy is out of state having someone else sell for him and it may include more acc. He said he used it for gunsmithing.


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## Randall Marx (Feb 1, 2017)

I would be looking for at least: 3-jaw chuck, 4-jaw chuck, steady rest, follower rest, tailstock drill chuck, tailstock centers (dead and live), toolpost and tool holders, some cutting tools. Quick change tool post and holders for it would be very helpful because the lantern-style post and holders are more difficult to deal with for the majority of operations. As I stated before, a used set of change gears for the Atlas will likely be close to $200 or more. They are available periodically but are not cheap.
Regarding your question about machining the camshaft: What is the diameter of the shaft? If it is more than 3/4" you will be limited to holding one end in a chuck (preferably a 4-jaw so it can be dialed accurately). The other end would need to be held in a steady rest to be supported well enough to drill it. You could drill half-way through, then dismount, flip end-for-end, remount and redial it at both ends (chuck and steady rest), then drill to the already-drilled hole. The other problem becomes length. You effectively have 30" of bed length available between centers. You have a workpiece that is 18" long, then a drill chuck that uses about 2-3", then a drill bit that needs to be 9.5-10" sticking out from the drill chuck. That totals 30-31" and uses all of the available bed length in a _best-case_ scenario. More likely, the chuck on the spindle will take more space than a center would, so that uses up another couple of inches that you don't have. Also, the tailstock ram on these machines only has about 2.5" of travel. That means that you cannot drill the whole length from one position. Another option would be to use a drill that would be mounted on the carriage. This would eliminate needing the tailstock for this project and it could be removed from the lathe. It would leave more room to work and would eliminate having to clamp, release, move, reposition, re-clamp the tailstock for drilling many times for one operation. There are some options, and it could be accomplished, but might not be ideal. I completely understand, however, the need and desire to obtain useable machine(s) on a tight budget.
The direct answer to the question 





borjawil said:


> Why can I just put one end of the cam or bar stock in the chuck and have a tool rest to help?


 is that without real support on the right end, it would be quite unsafe that far out from the chuck. That is the reason for needing a steady rest. If you were not drilling the end, the tailstock and center would support it, but you need to work the end so it requires a steady rest for support.
Sorry for the long post, but I hope it helps you some.


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## Randall Marx (Feb 1, 2017)

By the way, why do you want to drill through the length of a camshaft? Just curious.


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## borjawil (Feb 1, 2017)

Thanks for the detailed answer! My background is motorcycle building - frames, repair, custom fabrication, etc. However I'm getting into making custom "home decor" type pieces. One of them being camshaft lamps. Camshafts come hollowed, but if I can drill solid ones out then it'll lower costs and expand the shafts I can work with.


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## tq60 (Feb 1, 2017)

Check spindle bearings. 

Atlas is likely Babbet or something else and Logan could be roller.

Logans usually superior to atlas...usually.

Post photos of both if you can.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk


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## borjawil (Feb 1, 2017)

How would one check the bearings on a spindle? other than running and feeling them for heat/listening for weird noises. Only have pics of the logan which I'm leaning towards due to what it comes with and the atlas not having the other gears, plus its about $150 cheaper at 600, though I think I could get it for $500


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## tq60 (Feb 1, 2017)

That Logan may have roller bearings as there are no oil cups.

You should get a dial indicator with a magnetic base and some wood blocks like 1 ft lengths of scrap 2 X 4 as well as a 4 ft length.

Place dial indicator where it can measure up and down movement of chuck and with wood blocks place one across bed front to back to then use long one resting on it to pry a bit upward on the chuck...not much force but just a bit and see if the indicator moves much.

Atlas with worn out bearings will move a bunch and if Logan is roller very little.

Another note regarding the Logan is the lever that engages the back gear can slip out of position and it can cause busted gear if past user banged it in while running or if someone use it to remove chuck.

Check operation to be sure it stays as well as inspect back gears for all teeth.

Ours was missing some and we missed it...need to fix but easier to use different lathe.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk


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## borjawil (Feb 1, 2017)

How much movement is too much? I have a magnetic dial indicator and understand your method of moving it. good idea.


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## Randall Marx (Feb 1, 2017)

I would say more than .003 is too much. The Atlas, if it is in fact a TH48, will have Timkin roller bearings. I would want to check it the same way as TQ60 suggested checking the Logan. The Atlas does have an adjustment for spindle bearing preload, and I would guess that the Logan has a similar adjustment. I would worry more if the spindle is _really_ tight or if you can feel or hear grinding type noises when turning the spindle by hand (or when running under power).


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## borjawil (Feb 1, 2017)

Gotcha. Ill likely just pick up the logan. Comes with a rest, about 13 extra gears, but I don't see tooling. Suppose ill upgrade to a QCTP with the extra $$$ I save.


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## Mister Ed (Feb 1, 2017)

The Logan will have roller bearings. It appears to be an early one (that's neither good, nor bad). Hard to see much more than that. But with all gears, and a steady rest (I think that is what you mean by rest) $600 might be a pretty good deal.

Maybe get them to throw in some rags and degreaser.


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## borjawil (Feb 1, 2017)

Yep, as long as it moves well, no noises, bearings are good, etc. Ill go with it. I appreciate all the help guys!


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## joebiplane (Feb 1, 2017)

I would go with the logan...much more solid.. has roller bearing that last forever if you have to replace them .
Lack of Gear box on either is something I wouldn't consider... Changing gears can be a pain and is necessary for Controlling the speed of the cutting tool which will affect the finish you get on the work piece( slower provides better finish...  faster provide faster work time while " roughing out"    I've refurbished about 12 lathes of which 2 were Atlas/Craftsman   and two were Logan'    one Very Old ( antique)  Seneca falls one Southbend heavy 10  and a half dozen South Bend " workshop"  9".    My preference is South Bend over Logan  but they are very similar.
Most importantly... If there is any way you can afford it  get a Logan 820  or a South bend 9" work shop or a South bend " Lite 10"  but do yourself a favor and get a lathe with a quick change gear box....Trust me on this one !
Joebiplane


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## Nogoingback (Feb 1, 2017)

I'm in the process of "rebuilding" a Logan 200, so I can answer a few of your questions.  The bearings in a Logan 200 are ball bearings, not roller bearings.  Unlike many lathes, they are not adjustable: the preload
is "built in" to the bearings.  The front bearing is a double row bearing that, while not available from bearing houses, is still available from Logan.  (I just bought bearings  for mine.)  This brings up a good
point: the Logan is one of the easier older American lathes to support.  Because they were build in large numbers, there are lots of eBay parts available, and  parts are still available from Logan as well.   (http://www.lathe.com).    In general, Logans are considered a better lathe than an Atlas: more robust, better ways etc.  joebiplane's  suggestion to find an 820 is a good one since the 200 didn't
have a quick change gear box, but really you should focus on finding a lathe in the best condition you can find, with as much tooling as possible.  All these old machines have wear, especially to the bed,
and of course many were abused.  Changing wear items like bushings, bearings, belts etc. can always be done, but avoiding a completely worn out machine will save you headaches later.  You may want
to learn a bit about evaluating a lathe, and then take the time to find a good one.  My machine is in pretty good shape, and I didn't overpay for it, but I've still spent more on parts and tooling than
I spent buying it, and I'm not done yet.

I would start by checking the FAQ on Logan's website, and check out the 
*"LOGAN ENGINEERING CO. & LOGAN WARDS "  discussions elsewhere*
*on this site.  LOTS of useful information that will help you make a good*
*choice.*


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## joebiplane (Feb 2, 2017)

Nogoingback is correct on the bearings being ball bearings..... My mistake... BUT  They ARE available through bearing houses  and at a cost of about $75.00 for the set   they may not be the name bearing in your machine but they are the right size   just bring your old bearing with you to the bearing outlet.    I have gotten them at a small distributor here in South Jersey ( Vineland )  as well as a large supplier in Blackwood N J    both shops had them in stock.   It has been about 10 years since I bought the last set


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## drivermark (Feb 14, 2017)

I have the Monkey Wards/Logan 10"er and I am very happy with it. I got it dialed to within .0005 with a 3 jaw chuck. It took some hand scraping and then rotating the jaws around in the body to find the "sweet spot" but its pretty darn close. I haven't done any super close tolerance type stuff with it yet
but it's not bad for a $3oo lathe.


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