# Pm-1440gt



## jbolt

The wait has begun. I ordered one of these last week so I figure I will start a new thread.

This is a new offering from PM. It is made in the same factory as the PM-1340GT so hopefully it is of equal quality, fit and finish.

Here the the basic specifications:
Swing over bed = 14"
Swing in gap = 20-3/4"
Center height = 7"
Spindle center from floor = 47"
Max between centers = 40"
Bed width = 7-9/16"
Bed height 11-1/2"
Spindle bore = 2"
Spindle taper = MT#5
Spindle mount = D1-5
12 speeds, 52 - 2200 rpm
Lead screw = 7/8" / 4 TPI
Inch Threads = 4-56 (32)
Metric threads - .4-7mm
Longitudinal Feed Range = .0026-.0368 IPR
Cross Feed Range = .0013-.0184 IPR
Spindle Length through headstock = 15-1/2"
Cross Slide Travel = 7"
Compound Travel - 3-1/2"
Tail Stock Quill Diameter = 1-9/16"
Tail Stock Quill Travel = 4"
Tail Stock Quill Taper = MT#3
Motor = 3 HP, 1 Phase or 3 Phase
Weight = 1650 lbs.

Steel base, foot brake, coolant system, steady rest, follow rest, other misc stuff.

Matt does not have pictures yet (driving me crazy) but he did send me a picture of the thread chart.



	

		
			
		

		
	
  Has a few more change gears than I like but most of the common inch threads can be done on the same gear set. This three times the number of threads I can do now on my current machine.

I poked around the internet for a similar thread chart and found the Eisen 1440E made in Taiwan.



	

		
			
		

		
	
  This looks like the feed gearbox but this lathe is a 9 speed.

A little more digging and I found this lathe with a 12 speed, also made in Taiwan.



	

		
			
		

		
	
  Looks pretty close.

Then I noticed on the PM website in the lathes section a picture of a lathe with no description or link. 


	

		
			
		

		
	
  Hmmm..looks about right. 

I could be WAY off base but it is fun to speculate. 

Now to get my current lathe sold to make room for the new one.

Jay


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## wrmiller

Cool!!!!  

We require copious pics and commentary when it gets there of course!


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## MonkMan

Specs look good. I don't see it listed on the site? How did you hear about it?

Thanks

Paul


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## qualitymachinetools

Hey Jay,
  You won't find this one on the internet anywhere, it is made specifically for us, We are the ones who invested in the casting patterns and designs and everything else.  The picture I sent you of the threads is of our standard 1440 model, but the new one will use the same thread/feed box.           

 I will send pictures as soon as I have them for you, but you will not find it anywhere online, until we put them out there. I do not have pictures that I can send to you yet, or I would. But it is one heck of a machine, that is for sure.    The ONLY machine from Taiwan, in this kind of quality, with a 2" Spindle Bore, anywhere near this price range.


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## jbolt

Hey Matt,

I knew you would chime in. I figured I would be totally wrong but hey, just having some fun! Now everyone is going to be curious.

Looking forward to getting some pictures!

Paul - When I was researching lathes I asked Matt if he had anything new coming out and he turned me on to this.

Jay


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## wrmiller

Well you guys certainly have my curiosity up! Always interested in seeing new toys....err...machines. 

How long is the expected wait time?


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## MonkMan

Thanks Jay & Matt for the information. Looking forward to see the photographs.

Paul


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## jbolt

wrmiller said:


> Well you guys certainly have my curiosity up! Always interested in seeing new toys....err...machines.
> 
> How long is the expected wait time?



He said he was expecting them in 6 or 7 weeks.


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## tmarks11

brave man, to order sight unseen.  But if Matt says it is good, you gotta trust him!


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## jbolt

tmarks11 said:


> brave man, to order sight unseen.  But if Matt says it is good, you gotta trust him!



Two things I'm a little uneasy about, sight unseen (but how much different can it be from every other Asian import of this size) and it being a first generation machine. Nothing like being a beta tester. Matt's got a good reputation and seems excited about this offering so I'll take my chances.

The specs on this machine hit almost all my "wants" without going to a significantly more expensive machine which just isn't in my budget right now. It's pretty cool that he sees the value in this market to go out and have a higher quality machine produced to this spec.


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## mksj

jbolt said:


> Two things I'm a little uneasy about, sight unseen (but how much different can it be from every other Asian import of this size) and it being a first generation machine. Nothing like being a beta tester. Matt's got a good reputation and seems excited about this offering so I'll take my chances.



I believe this would not be an issue, from the sound of what it is described as. A lot of these have bolt on parts, so as mentioned the gearbox will be the same and probably many of the other major parts, seems (guessing) most likely the major change is to the headstock for the larger spindle bore.  These manufactures have been making these types of machines for a long time and know what they are doing, so I would certainly go the route you are taking. It is refreshing to see newer models that have improved features, as opposed to the same old thing. My hat is off to QMT/Matt for actually have the ability to make these changes/improvements to these machines, while most other suppliers grind out the same old thing (warts and all).  Now, if variable speed was a factory option for a few of these newer machines, that would be the icing on the cake.


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## jbolt

I took advantage of a recent Enco 30% off plus I had a 10% off with free shipping coupon from an order they screwed up and got a few things including an Aloris tool post. I had forgotten how much nicer these are than the Chinese imports.


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## jbolt

I got word from Matt today that the lathe will come with the 3HP 3PH motor. The coolant pump is 1PH so I will go the VFD route. I need to choose a VDF for the 3HP motor. The lathe is a 12-speed so speed control will be limited to optimizing speeds between the gear ranges. It also has a mechanical foot brake which I will probably leave as-is for now. I am not getting the optional light so the DRO and auxiliary lighting will be on a separate 110vac circuit. 

I'm reading through the various VFD setups on the 1340GT but I would welcome any suggestions on what VFD and other parts I might need. 

I would like to get as much ready as possible and have a general wiring plan before the lathe arrives. Without actually seeing the machine wiring I'm assuming most of the factory electronics will be removed?

I already have 60 amps/220vac near where the lathe will be placed so I can put in breakers/disconnect for the VFD and auxiliary wiring. I do have experience wiring the VFD and controls on my PM932 conversion and a couple of CNC routers so this is not totally foreign to me it just won't be CNC. 

I would also like to add a tach so any recommendations on those would be appreciated.


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## mksj

Matt sells the Hitachi WJ200 at a reasonable price, they work well and have a lot of programming variables if one gets into it. The major negative, is the manual is quite poor, the positive is that the parameter files have already been worked out and are easily adaptable.  I would avoid the Chinese eBay specials, as they may be hit or miss on working for any length of time, the manuals are bad, programming can be an issue and no warranty. Alternatives with be the higher end Teco's and Automation Direct sensorless vector VFD models.Yes, you would be removing most of the machines control electricals, and possibly the control switches. Keep the spindle, foot and safety shield switches.

Recently installed a 3Hp WJ200 on a 2 speed lathe and it worked very well, they are available for single and 3 phase input for this Hp. You have two options with the foot brake, one is to disconnect the manual brake and use the brake switch to activate the stop command (like and E-Stop), or to use the mechanical brake and use the brake switch an input to command the  VFD free run to a stop (no electronic braking). You cannot use both mechanical and electronic braking at the same time.  One note, installing a VFD with appropriate safety features is a bit more complicated on a lathe and can take some time to get it up and running. There are various schematics designs, my preference is to use a power relay, for/rev relay, and if needed a coolant contactor. It requires a separate 12 or 24VDC power supply, which can also be use for LED lights, tach, etc. as an option. The relays add safety interlocks, and the designs are similar to commercial units. The tach used was a $10 hall sensor unit from eBay with a $12 Hammond 1590  diecast enclosure. Works fine for RPM only. The MachTach is an alternative if you need SFM. I have the latter, but for the most part do not use the SFM.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/381179149186
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331534164211


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## wrmiller

I too have the Wj200 and MachTach setup on my 1340GT and am happy with the configuration. Mksj was a BIG help with the programming.


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## Bamban

I am with mksj on EV version.

Now in the months ahead if Matt offers a version with just hi/lo speed control and variable speed from factory, amd maybe lower spindle center line from the floor, I may be compelled to buy one (assuming she approves the cash outlay) I've never owned a new machine, holding out for the perfect-for-my-wants-in-a-lathe, made in Taiwan.


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## jbolt

mksj said:


> Matt sells the Hitachi WJ200 at a reasonable price, they work well and have a lot of programming variables if one gets into it. The major negative, is the manual is quite poor, the positive is that the parameter files have already been worked out and are easily adaptable.  I would avoid the Chinese eBay specials, as they may be hit or miss on working for any length of time, the manuals are bad, programming can be an issue and no warranty. Alternatives with be the higher end Teco's and Automation Direct sensorless vector VFD models.Yes, you would be removing most of the machines control electricals, and possibly the control switches. Keep the spindle, foot and safety shield switches.
> 
> Recently installed a 3Hp WJ200 on a 2 speed lathe and it worked very well, they are available for single and 3 phase input for this Hp. You have two options with the foot brake, one is to disconnect the manual brake and use the brake switch to activate the stop command (like and E-Stop), or to use the mechanical brake and use the brake switch an input to command the  VFD free run to a stop (no electronic braking). You cannot use both mechanical and electronic braking at the same time.  One note, installing a VFD with appropriate safety features is a bit more complicated on a lathe and can take some time to get it up and running. There are various schematics designs, my preference is to use a power relay, for/rev relay, and if needed a coolant contactor. It requires a separate 12 or 24VDC power supply, which can also be use for LED lights, tach, etc. as an option. The relays add safety interlocks, and the designs are similar to commercial units. The tach used was a $10 hall sensor unit from eBay with a $12 Hammond 1590  diecast enclosure. Works fine for RPM only. The MachTach is an alternative if you need SFM. I have the latter, but for the most part do not use the SFM.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/381179149186
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/331534164211



Thanks mksj, I read through a lot of your posts on the 1340gt conversions last night. Lots of good stuff. Thanks for doing that. 

Both my CNC mill and router use Chinese VFDs. While I was able to slog my through those and they both work fine I will not be going down that path for this machine. We have a Yaskawa drive on the CNC router we built for the high school which is a really nice unit but expensive. I have read some mixed reviews on the Hitachi drives but it sounds like they are being used successfully here. I will take a look at the drives you have suggested.

I had not thought about the integrating the various safety switches. I will have to give that some thought. I grew up on machines with foot brakes and learned to use them for more than emergency stops but that was in a production environment. I guess I'm old enough to still not fully trust what I can't see or feel.


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## dlane

Jbolt : I'm guessing your avatar will clear up when your new lathe is up and running.
Sounds like it's going to be a nice lathe.


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## jbolt

I'm trying to wrap my head around the setup if I keep the mechanical foot brake. If the foot brake is pressed and the switch commands the VFD to coast what happens if the apron handle is still in the forward or reverse selection? How is that reset?

If the forward or reverse handle is put in neutral does the VFD have to be set to coast like with he foot brake or can that be set to brake though the VFD? 

How quick can the VFD stop an 8" chuck from high speed?

On another subject how are you switching the machine power on/off? On my mill I use a master contactor to switch the VFD and other contactors on/off using momentary NC/On and NC/off buttons.


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## mksj

It is very straight forward, I have both schematics with parts lists and programming parameter files that I can send you depending on what you want to happen. The switches for most of the safety systems are NC type limit switches, but can be configures as NC or NO at the switch. These limit switches are connected serially with the E-Stop to kill 24VDC power that maintains the power relay latch, once this occurs it deactivates the direction relays and the machine will normally brake to a stop. The braking in this mode is single stage and the chuck stops in about 1 second, even with a 60Lb chuck. Probably quicker than you could do mechanically. Many VFD machines do not use mechanical brakes, they just have a limit switch that operates the electronic brake. Normal braking, using the apron spindle direction switch can be set to different parameters, but electronic braking is the default mode. Most of the designs I use have a switch to select 1 stage braking ~ 1second or 2 stage braking ~ 3-4 seconds, current designs revert to 1 stage braking if any fault trips are encountered. If you wanted the foot brake to stop the machine and issue a freewheel command, then you would either need another NO switch that goes to NC when the brake is depressed and issues the freewheel command to a VFD input, or the NO side of the limit switch would close a single pole relay which would issue the freewheel command. I can draw the schematics for either. Until you have the machine there, it is a bit difficult to get your head around all it.

In any fault condition, the red E-Stop light comes on. The apron handle most be cycled to/through the stop position to reset the power relay latch. This also applies if there is a power glitch/outage or the the handle is in the forward/reverse position when turned on.

Convention to turn off the power is to use something like a 30-40A rotary power switch. Alternatively in some manufactured machines a latching power contactor is used, this requires the power to the lathe and the power supply/transformer be on all the time. You need a separate on/off momentary buttons to turn the machine on/off.

http://content.jettools.com/assets/manuals/1340_1440 EVS Lathes_Manual.pdf
Example of the JET 1440 EVS lathe, the VFD Grizzly machines with foot brakes do the braking via the VFD. I do not recommend killing power to the VFD as a form of the E-Stop or upon braking, for many reasons that could be detrimental to the VFD and it defeats many of its safety parameters. Also attached is a PM1236 system, that would be similar to what you are looking for, to use the mechanical brake would require an additional single pole relay or a dual pole limit switch.


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## jbolt

All I can say is WOW! Mark. This is over the top. Thank you.

I do want to keep the mechanical brake which sounds like is possible. Without having the machine yet and the fact that this is a new yet to be seen machine, would it still be possible for me to collect all (or at least most) of the parts ahead of time? You mention you have parts lists. 

On my CNC mill I have two e-stops, a master e-stop that kills all power to the machine and an e-stop that just stops the controller if the machine does something unexpected. The master e-stop was setup as an "Oh crap the machines on fire" safety. This is probably not necessary for a manual machine so the rotary switch sounds like the better idea.

Assuming this machine has a jog button, does this feature only jog in one direction or can it be set to jog in either direction? 

To keep things simple(er) I will order a Hitachi WJ200-022SF VFD.

Thanks,
Jay


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## wrmiller

The jog function on the WJ200 requires both a 'activate' input and a direction. I have a picture of this at home, but on my 1340GT just below the Jog button is a three-position switch (fwd/off/rev), that I use to either jog in the forward or reverse direction. I have to flip the switch first (non-momentary) before the Jog button becomes active.

Not sure I wanted this, but it has become quite handy.


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## jbolt

I've never used a jog button (that I can recall) but the first thing that came to mind was power taping and some threading ops.

I wonder if the fwd/rev jog could be accomplished with a single 2 pole, 2-pos momentary toggle?


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## zmotorsports

wrmiller said:


> The jog function on the WJ200 requires both a 'activate' input and a direction. I have a picture of this at home, but on my 1340GT just below the Jog button is a three-position switch (fwd/off/rev), that I use to either jog in the forward or reverse direction. I have to flip the switch first (non-momentary) before the Jog button becomes active.
> 
> Not sure I wanted this, but it has become quite handy.



I thought the same thing Bill, whether I would ever use it or not.  However, I have found I use my JOG feature a lot.

Mike.


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## wrmiller

jbolt said:


> I've never used a jog button (that I can recall) but the first thing that came to mind was power taping and some threading ops.
> 
> I wonder if the fwd/rev jog could be accomplished with a single 2 pole, 2-pos momentary toggle?



That's exactly what I use it for. As for the momentary, I thought about it, but didn't want to have to be that coordinated to activate two buttons/switches at the same time.


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## jbolt

Ooopps... I meant 2-pole 3 pos momentary toggle, on(fwd)-off-on(rev). One pole would be the "active" and the other pole wold be the direction so one switch is all would be needed. I don't know if the vfd needs to see the active signal first or it they can both be called at the same time.


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## wrmiller

Not sure of the logic timing. IF I was writing the code/logic for it, when I see a 'Jog' input, I would query the Dir input to determine which direction I would activate. But I didn't design this thing so that's just a guesstimate on my part.


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## jbolt

dlane said:


> Jbolt : I'm guessing your avatar will clear up when your new lathe is up and running.
> Sounds like it's going to be a nice lathe.



My Avatar will start to clear up when I know what the machine looks like!


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## wrmiller




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## mksj

jbolt said:


> To keep things simple(er) I will order a Hitachi WJ200-022SF VFD


That would be the correct model for single phase input, 3Hp 3 phase output continuous torque/sensorless vector. Surprised about the comment on the WJ200 having mixed reviews, they are very durable, the programming can be a PTA but once running I have not heard of any issues.

The WJ200 needs two commands to JOG in a direction, the JOG just sets the frequency (6 Hz is the default), the second command needs to be a direction. This is usually accomplished with a one way diode between between the JOG terminal and the Forward or Reverse terminal. This is a common request I often get and currently I have been using a 2 way joystick to momentarily jog forward or reverse. A matter of preference.

The usual E-Stop in VFD systems would interrupt the VFD run inputs and implementing rapid braking. I see no reason to kill the system power, as this defeats the VFD safety features. Usual protocol is to have a main power disconnect switch, followed by a fuse or breaker, which then power the VFD. If there is that much current that you need to kill the power, then a breaker or fuse will trip long before you get to it. As mentioned, many machines use a momentary switch to activate a contactor to apply system power. most likely this is much easier then pulling power to the the front of the machine,  and the contactor can be wired into other safety systems. I would just put a two pole switch on the machine and keep it simple.

Many of the parts I usually get from AutomationDirect, they have a wide selection and they have 2 day delivery, so most of the process is figuring out what you need. A few things like the brake resistor is from China, so those are worth ordering in advance as they can take 2-3 weeks to get here. I can provide a list of usual sources. As mentioned, you will need a 24VDC power supply 60-100W to run the relays, tach and possibly lights if you go that route. Also a step down converter for 12 VDC components like the tach and 12V lighting.

Last but not least, if you have a VFD with low voltage controls I do recommend using some form of electronic carriage stop that is fastened to your you micrometer stop. This can be something as simple as a plunger limit switch, or an electronic hall sensor. I have posted different designs, there is a number of ways to add this feature.

Probably best to send me a PM with your email, and I can work with you on your system. I am starting a new system build, and have to follow up on a few out in the field, so it may be 2-3 weeks until I can get the details to you.

Please also consider where you are going to mount the VFD and the associated infrastructure, like breakers/fuse, disconnect switch, location of power supply, etc. There are a lot of pieces to the puzzle, depending on what you want to do. This shows some of the build components to consider: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/thre...-did-you-do-in-your-shop-today.14637/page-327

Mark


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## tmarks11

jbolt said:


> I do want to keep the mechanical brake which sounds like is possible.



+++1

The mechanical brake is the e-stop of choice for your lathe.  And who knows, it could save your life someday. I couldn't imagine running a lathe without a brake.


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## jbolt

mksj said:


> That would be the correct model for single phase input, 3Hp 3 phase output continuous torque/sensorless vector. Surprised about the comment on the WJ200 having mixed reviews, they are very durable, the programming can be a PTA but once running I have not heard of any issues.
> 
> The WJ200 needs two commands to JOG in a direction, the JOG just sets the frequency (6 Hz is the default), the second command needs to be a direction. This is usually accomplished with a one way diode between between the JOG terminal and the Forward or Reverse terminal. This is a common request I often get and currently I have been using a 2 way joystick to momentarily jog forward or reverse. A matter of preference.
> 
> The usual E-Stop in VFD systems would interrupt the VFD run inputs and implementing rapid braking. I see no reason to kill the system power, as this defeats the VFD safety features. Usual protocol is to have a main power disconnect switch, followed by a fuse or breaker, which then power the VFD. If there is that much current that you need to kill the power, then a breaker or fuse will trip long before you get to it. As mentioned, many machines use a momentary switch to activate a contactor to apply system power. most likely this is much easier then pulling power to the the front of the machine,  and the contactor can be wired into other safety systems. I would just put a two pole switch on the machine and keep it simple.
> 
> Many of the parts I usually get from AutomationDirect, they have a wide selection and they have 2 day delivery, so most of the process is figuring out what you need. A few things like the brake resistor is from China, so those are worth ordering in advance as they can take 2-3 weeks to get here. I can provide a list of usual sources. As mentioned, you will need a 24VDC power supply 60-100W to run the relays, tach and possibly lights if you go that route. Also a step down converter for 12 VDC components like the tach and 12V lighting.
> 
> Last but not least, if you have a VFD with low voltage controls I do recommend using some form of electronic carriage stop that is fastened to your you micrometer stop. This can be something as simple as a plunger limit switch, or an electronic hall sensor. I have posted different designs, there is a number of ways to add this feature.
> 
> Probably best to send me a PM with your email, and I can work with you on your system. I am starting a new system build, and have to follow up on a few out in the field, so it may be 2-3 weeks until I can get the details to you.
> 
> Please also consider where you are going to mount the VFD and the associated infrastructure, like breakers/fuse, disconnect switch, location of power supply, etc. There are a lot of pieces to the puzzle, depending on what you want to do. This shows some of the build components to consider: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/thre...-did-you-do-in-your-shop-today.14637/page-327
> 
> Mark



Mark,

Thank you for your offer to help.

I will send you my email and look through the various schematics you have posted. As for component layout I'll have to figure that out when I get the machine and have it placed. That will not be difficult to do once I have it in front of me.

Jay


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## jbolt

Well I'm committed now. My old lathe just drove away. What amazed me was it was listed for less than 12 hours before it was sold and left my garage and I got my price with no haggling. 

Now I will be going through withdrawals while waiting for the new lathe to arrive.......

Yesterday I emailed a supplier I've used over the years for various projects about getting a Hitachi VFD. I get discounts because they are a sponsor for the high school robotics team I help mentor. I got an "I'll check" response and then figured I would give him a few days to get back to me but to my surprise DHL delivered a new WJ200-022SF while I was helping the buyer of my lathe load it into his truck. How awesome is that!


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## jbolt

New chucks arrived today. I was seriously looking at some of the higher dollar chucks but my budget is pretty much stretched so I went with the Gator Chucks as a compromise. I chose not to get the Chucks PM offers with the lathe because I wanted an adjustable 3-jaw and a 4-jaw with 2-piece jaws. After I get the lathe and do a few jobs I might look at a higher quality 6-jaw to add to the set.

First is a Gator 4-jaw direct mount. Looks decent. I was a little disappointed by the rust spot on the back. Looks like something was spilled on it that was corrosive. It is not a big spot and it cleaned up okay by scraping and honing with a hard stone. The jaws feel good in the chuck but some of that may be due to the excessive amount of grease they put in. The chuck has some manufacturing grit in the cam lock pin holes. I will have to disassemble and clean before use. I expected a little better QC for the price. I'm thrilled to finally have a 4-jaw chuck with 2-piece jaws. 








Next is a Gator 3-jaw "Adjust Tru". Much better fit and finish than the 4-jaw despite being made in China. Scroll feels good but again some of that may be the grease though not quite as much as the 4-jaw. The adjusting screws are nice and large which is good. I find it interesting that there are only three mounting screws. My 6" Interstate set-tru chuck from Enco has six. No grit on this chuck or the adapter. I will still disassemble and clean to get rid of the excessive grease in the works. Final opinion on both chucks to be determined when I can get them on the lathe and test.













Here is the new 8" 3-jaw/D1-5 Gator next to my old 6" 3-jaw/D1-4 Interstate. This Interstate is actually a really nice chuck and repeats as well as the claims of some of the high dollar chucks. I was not going to keep the Interstate because they do not make a D1-5 adapter for this chuck  but now seeing them side by side I may make or modify an existing adapter for the D1-5 and keep it.





Ugh, back is already complaining. A 10" or 12" chuck would require a hoist.


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## wrmiller

I feel your pain. I can still lift my 8" PBA set-tru, but I don't know for how much longer.


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## RIO

jbolt said:


> All I can say is WOW! Mark. This is over the top. Thank you.



You'll get used to it...he (mksj) and Mike (zmotorsports) do it all the time.  They're taken advantage of and abused by us completely green newbies [not saying you are too] all the time on here, and they keep on giving.

Which reminds me that I owe a new feedback thread with pics and a video on here for all the work I've done in my shop, specifically my PM1340GT "Mark/Mike cloan" setup.  I just work hit and miss on it, so there is a lot of dead space/time.  But I am just getting ready to launch "Dunn Precision Rifles" with my first complete custom build, which will involve a lot of work with the PM1340GT, action truing, barrel chambering, etc., so I'll put some effort into a Hobby Machinist update someday "soon" boys.  (could be a month or two).  

RIO


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## sanddan

Looking forward to it Rio


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## jbolt

It has been an almost perfect storm getting ready for the new lathe. 

With two kids in college and half way through a remodel I didn't want to pull any funds from the household budget so it meant selling off "stuff" I've had for years left over from other hobbies or my construction business. I figured it would take several months to sell off and then I would order a lathe.

Starting in January, in less than eight weeks I had raised enough capital to purchase the lathe, set aside a budget for additional tooling / VFD conversion plus paid for some vet bills on the dog and to have my sons wisdom teeth extracted. Selling the old lathe so quickly also caught be by surprise. At my asking price I figured it would list for several weeks or more before it sold or I would have to start reducing the price. Gone in 12 hours, go figure. This has left a huge hole in my capacity and created an unusually large open area of my normally standing room only garage (great vigilance is required to fend off the "creep" into the void). 

Mark (mksj) has been over-the-top helpful and already has done me a preliminary schematic for the VFD conversion. Gotta love this forum for all the great resources and FRIENDLY help!

I do side work for a few manufacturing companies that throw me one-off  jobs that are generally to small for their overhead. The new larger lathe will increase my capacity to take on larger/more work and do it quicker. So far I've had to turn down two lathe jobs, used the school lathe for a few and invaded a friends place for a weekend for another. For even the normal stuff I'm surprised at how many times I have been working on something that I could have used the lathe for.

I nudged Matt over the weekend to see if he had any new information on the lathe but nothing yet. Oh and he emailed me back on the same day! 

Matt- take a day off!!! Being self-employed myself I know what it's like.


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## Rich V

"Gotta love this forum for all the great resources and FRIENDLY help!"

Yes this is a great site with almost none of the typical bickering I see elsewhere. There are bigger machinist sites that get a lot more traffic but you need to put on waders to get thru all of the BS. Glad I found this place.


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## zmotorsports

Rich V said:


> "Gotta love this forum for all the great resources and FRIENDLY help!"
> 
> Yes this is a great site with almost none of the typical bickering I see elsewhere. There are bigger machinist sites that get a lot more traffic but you need to put on waders to get thru all of the BS. Glad I found this place.



I completely agree.  Great group of people here.

Mike.


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## mksj

Still no pictures or specifications of this new model? The suspense is killing us!


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## jbolt

mksj said:


> Still no pictures or specifications of this new model? The suspense is killing us!



I listed most of the specs Mat gave me in the first post. 

As far as pictures, nothing so far. I suspect that won't happen unit they hit the warehouse. No ETA yet.


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## MonkMan

Mat's site now shows a spec for his PM 1440 GT. A small picture is also included. Is this the one??


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## jbolt

MonkMan said:


> Mat's site now shows a spec for his PM 1440 GT. A small picture is also included. Is this the one??



That's it. I'm not sure that is the actual picture since Matt has not yet been able to send me a picture. I believe he is waiting until the first batch arrives to take pictures of the machine.


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## dogma

Any word on if the foot brake is mechanical or if it is an electrical switch?


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## mksj

Brake would be mechanical. There is a switch that acts as ab E-Stop to turn the motor off.


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## Uncle_H

I just ordered a PM 1440 GT myself, it is replacing my Grizzly G0750G


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## RIO

Uncle, I [we] can't wait to hear how the two compare after running them awhile.  I almost bought the G0750G, until I ran across this forum and Mike's [zmotorsports] youtube video about the PM1340GT.  I bet we know what your conclusions are going to be already.
RIO


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## jbolt

Uncle_H, when did you order?. I'm curious when your expected delivery date is. I ordered mine the last week of February and still don't have an ETA.


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## jbolt

I got word from another buyer he was told the lathes are supposed to ship by the end of this month. Another 4 weeks ship time to get to the Pittsburgh warehouse. So it looks like at least another 8+ weeks before delivery. 

Ugh.....


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## jbolt

*PM1440GT First Look!*

Matt sent this today. A little smaller than I expected......LOL







Apparently he is having trouble getting them to send him pictures. Hopefully more to come soon.


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## wrmiller

Small he says...


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## jbolt

Well you know based on the specifications I was expecting it to include more of the basics like most lathes.  Oh say things like the bed, carriage, tail-stock......


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## tmarks11

jbolt said:


> W...I was expecting it to include more of the basics like most lathes.....Oh say things like the bed, carriage, tail-stock......


Those are available options that will be offered in the future.

This is the sort of thing that you buy on the installment plan and assemble it slowly...

The base model comes with a hand crank.


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## jbolt

Hmmm... need to read the fine print next time. 

I will have to see if mksj has a wiring schematic for a VFD and hand crank.


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## jbolt

It's getting larger! LOL

Matt sent a few more pictures. He said the machines are in a container at the port ready to begin their journey to the US.  Still no pictures of the completed machine. Check out the pile of head stocks in some of the pictures.


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## wrmiller

Getting there! (here?) Thats a pretty impressive bed for a 'bench' lathe. Very nice.


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## jbolt

Behold, it is real! Getting closer.....


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## MonkMan

Jay, where did you get the picture, I didn't see one on Matt's site yet.

Thanks


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## jbolt

MonkMan said:


> Jay, where did you get the picture, I didn't see one on Matt's site yet.
> 
> Thanks



Matt sent this to me yesterday. It was taken by someone at the factory so he must have just gotten them himself. They have been a long time in coming. 

I'm sure he will want to take better pictures once the machines get to his warehouse.

Here are a few more taken at the factory just before they were crated and shipped.


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## jbolt

This caught my eye. Appears to be two different motors?


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## jbolt

Just my luck a category 5 typhoon is about to make a direct hit on Taiwan. Hopefully the ship has already sailed! 

May everyone be safe!


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## mksj

One motor is single phase with capacitors, the other is 3 phase.  Looking very nice, like the large chip tray. Nice short headstock, should be a sweet lathe.


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## MonkMan

Thanks Jay,

It looks good......I sure would like to get hold of that manual pictured in your first photo.

Thanks again.....Paul


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## zmotorsports

That looks like a sweet lathe.  Big brother to the 1340GT as far as fit & finish.

Mike.


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## Chris Bettis

I want one!

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


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## jbolt

Finally got tracking info on the container ship. Currently it is in port in Singapore. Next stop is New York. Matt said it should be there around the 10th. Shipping line schedule shows it arriving in New York on the 15th so not sure which one is correct. Either way there finally light at the end of a loooong tunnel. 

Matt said there are 10 PM-1440GTs on this shipment with a few shipments of 18 each over the next few months.


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## jbolt

A few more pictures from Matt.


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## dzljon

Is the lathe everything you expected? I am looking for a new lathe, if I keep with the 8k budget I have been looking at this lathe or the grizzly G0509G.


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## jbolt

dzljon said:


> Is the lathe everything you expected? I am looking for a new lathe, if I keep with the 8k budget I have been looking at this lathe or the grizzly G0509G.



I have several hundred hours on the lathe now and it has met or exceeded my expectations. I have done some modifications which are documented in *this thread*. 

The lathe is very well made, very accurate and easy to align. The bed castings are very nice and of high quality. Everything was smooth from the get-go. The 2" spindle bore, D1-5 spindle nose and short head stock are a big plus in this size of lathe. For a gear head lathe it is very quiet to operate. 

The steel stand is heavy duty and provides a very solid base. The back splash and belt cover are 1/16" steel and very solid. I did not get the premium package and chose to purchase my own chucks. I wanted an adjustable 3-jaw and a 4-jaw with 2-piece jaws. 

It does require change gears for metric threads and some of the less common imperial threads. Most of the common even numbered imperial threads can be cut with the same gear set. Gear changes are quick to do so it has not been an issue.

The downsides were some of the specifications were not what was claimed. The spindle height was lower than advertises at 43" vs 47". The cross slide travel is only 6.4" and not the 7-1/2" in the specs. This one irritates me the most as a 14" swing lathe should have at least 7" of cross travel. 

The t-slot in the compound was not cut true. I discovered this when I machined a T-nut for an Aloris QCTP. This required some shimming to get it to sit correctly in the T-slot. The back splash and belt cover were poorly fitted requiring some rework. This does not affect the performance of the lathe just an annoyance for a $7k lathe. I have spoken with other PM-1440GT owners who did not have this issue so I may just be the lucky one. I was suprised it was not caught by Precision Matthews when the un-crated and inspected. It was quite obvious.

The access for the coolant pump and tank is from the inside face of the stand which would be impossible to get to if the lathe was backed up to a wall. It should have been on the outside. Mine backes upto the overhead door so it is not a problem for me.

My lathe came with the single phase 2HP motor. I have since changed to a 3HP 3 phase Marathon motor. Having run both motors I can say the 2HP single phase is undersized for this lathe. The factory 3hp 3ph motor would be a better choice.

The G0509G was on my short list. I think it is a lot of lathe for the money. 1500 lbs heavier, one-piece cast iron base, 10" ways, D1-6 spindle, 2" spindle bore, no change gears etc. My reasons for not going with the Griz were size and power requirements. I was very tight for space and I would have had to done a service panel upgrade to provide the power to it which would have added many thousands to the cost. Also I had a lot of BXA size tool holders and tooling from my old lathe that would be too small for that machine. I don't need a 16" swing lathe for what I do and I can tell you that an 8" chuck is about all I want to deal with without a hoist to move it around.

I have no regrets in purchasing this lathe as it meets my needs perfectly.


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## tmarks11

jbolt said:


> The cross slide travel is only 6.4" and not the 7-1/2" in the specs. This one irritates me the most as a 14" swing lathe should have at least 7" of cross travel.



My 14x40 G0709 has 6.5" of travel.  I only think you will find lathes with more cross slide that have a significantly wider bed. 

Even the Jet 1440W (10.5" bed) has on 6.5".

The Grizzly G0509G does manage 8.5" travel (10.5" bed), and the Jet 1440ZX (13.375" bed) has 9" of travel.

I know it is irritating to be expecting something different based upon the spec sheet, but you will be hard pressed to find an asian lathe of this size (i.e., 7.5" bed) with more than 6.5" of travel.



jbolt said:


> The G0509G was on my short list. I think it is a lot of lathe for the money. 1500 lbs heavier, one-piece cast iron base, 10" ways, D1-6 spindle, 2" spindle bore



Every time I stop by the Grizzly showroom, I kick myself for not spending another $3K and getting the G0509G. 

 I suspect that the fit and finish on your lathe is a lot better than the G0509G.  And I am under the strong hunch that the Grizzly showroom machines are all the original manufacturers, and what comes out of the crate now days is nowhere near as nice as what is on the show room floor.  IIRC< grizzly changed the manufacturer of their gunsmith lathes about 4 years ago.

Would be awesome if Matt started offering *one piece* cast iron bases as an option.  It would be an excellent upgrade.


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## jbolt

tmarks11 said:


> My 14x40 G0709 has 6.5" of travel.  I only think you will find lathes with more cross slide that have a significantly wider bed.



There are plenty of 14" lathes with this size bed and 7" of cross slide travel. Mat still advertises it as 7-1/2". I have made him aware that the specs are not correct more than once but it seems to fall on deaf ears. This was one of the selling points for me. Not the only one but one of them.


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## tmarks11

jbolt said:


> There are plenty of 14" lathes with this size bed and 7" of cross slide travel.


How about an example of a 14x40 lathe with a 7.5" wide bed that has 7.5" of cross slide travel?

It isn't the swing of the lathe that controls the cross-slide travel but the width of the bed.

I gave you a couple examples that don't, couldn't find any that do.

 I have spent a lot of time on a Jet 1660ZX (9" cross slide travel), and didn't find the extra cross slide travel any more useful than the 6.5" I have on the G0709.  The problem is that the extra inches of cross slide travel are all out in front of centerline, which only helps turning a large diameter object (14"), which 100% of the time I never did.


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## jbolt

ACRA 1400, Willis 1340, Bolton BT1440G-3, Acer 1440E to name a few.

I'm not sure how you never needing to use more than 6.5" of travel has anything to do with the type of work I do?


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## jeff_g1137

Hi
My lathe is a 1440 but only has 8.3/4" over the cross slide. 
1/2 of that is 4.3/8",  so 6.1/2"  to 7" should be all you need.  lol
but i all-ways need more. lol

jeff


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## tmarks11

jbolt said:


> I'm not sure how you never needing to use more than 6.5" of travel has anything to do with the type of work I do


Why do you need 7.5" of cross slide travel?  Are you trying to turn something exactly 14" in diameter?  Even with 6.5", the lead screw is centered forward of centerline, so get should full travel on the diameter of the part you are turning.

Not sure what you are losing in capability with a 1" less cross slide travel than you expected.


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## jbolt

What ever I might want to do that is within my work envelope.

I have done large worm wheels, modified large sprockets, made or modified pressure vessel caps and other assorted jobs all requiring facing at or near the full travel.

So I guess you think it is okay to sell a product with one set of specifications and deliver a product that is not as advertised?


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## Sandia

For comparison purposes, my Acer 14X40 E-Lathe has 9" ways and* 8* inch cross slide travel.


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## qualitymachinetools

I changed that spec on the sheet as soon as you told me it was wrong. I missed one, sorry about that, I made a mistake. I made that sheet up before we had them in the warehouse here.  If it wont work for you because of that, of course you can exchange towards one that will.


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## qualitymachinetools

Well I guess I changed the top link on the page, but the bottom link was still going to the old spec sheet, but its all fixed now. That Acer is a different machine, its a heavier frame, our 1440TS has 8" of cross travel, but its a larger / heavier frame (and higher priced) machine.


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## qualitymachinetools

Ill look at one when they come back in next week, may be as simple as a spacer at the cross slide handle, or longer leadscrew.


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## Sendit

qualitymachinetools said:


> Ill look at one when they come back in next week, may be as simple as a spacer at the cross slide handle, or longer leadscrew.



Matt you are going to have some 1440 GT in next week?  Are all spoken for (3 phase?)


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## qualitymachinetools

Yes we are, we have a bunch of them coming shortly. As of right now, single phase are sold out, and (2) 3 phase are available.   That looks like its going to change to one of each, I talked to someone who possibly wanted to change to 3 phase, promised to let me know by Friday after he reads up on the VFD install, so I think I will have one single and one 3 phase available then. We have 36 total coming now, and that many more in a few more months. I also have about 10 people who wanted to get orders in but did not want it delivered for a while, so they are on our next shipment. They are moving fast, thats for sure. Just as jbolt said how he likes his, its a great lathe, and people have been loving them. Most sales come from word of mouth, just wait until our web site launches and I can really get the word out (Almost finished up finally!)


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## Matt P

jbolt said:


> I took advantage of a recent Enco 30% off plus I had a 10% off with free shipping coupon from an order they screwed up and got a few things including an Aloris tool post. I had forgotten how much nicer these are than the Chinese imports.
> 
> View attachment 124057


Hi 
I have just taken delivery of 1440GT and was looking at tool posts, could you please tell what model that is ?? I looked on their website and struggle to find one with the right centre height and did you get the base as a blank and machine it yourself or get them to do it.
Regards
Matt P


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## jbolt

Matt P said:


> Hi
> I have just taken delivery of 1440GT and was looking at tool posts, could you please tell what model that is ?? I looked on their website and struggle to find one with the right centre height and did you get the base as a blank and machine it yourself or get them to do it.
> Regards
> Matt P



Congrats on the new lathe. 

I have an Aloris BXA size tool post. I went with the BXA because I had a lot of BXA size holders and 5/8 shank tooling from my previous lathe. 

The lathe could easily handle a CXA size tool post. The advantage of the CXA is it is more rigid and takes 3/4" + shank tooling. When you get into the #4 size inserts there is a much wider selection to choose from. 

Aloris & Dorian and a few others make BXA tool holders that will accept 3/4" shanks but at a higher cost. Most of my tool holders are from CDCO, 1/4 the cost of the Aloris and work just as well. 

I recently found a 5/8' shank tool that takes #4 inserts that I am testing. So far it is looking good. 

The BXA size is fine for almost everything but if you want to take advantage of the machines power to remove large amounts of material quickly the larger tooling is better.

Unless someone offers  machining services with their bases you will need to machine the base to fit the t-slot.


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## Fc911c

jbolt said:


> Having


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