# 123 Blocks, do you use them, and what for?



## HMF

Hey folks,

I have been perusing the ENCO catalog, and noticed 123 Blocks in various configurations and makes.

My question is, do you guys find that you use these a lot?
I presume that they are used for setup on a milling machine, but those of you who use them, what do you use them for?

Photos of your setups would be excellent- if you have any- to illustrate.

Thanks,


Nelson


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## rleete

I use them to set a known distance, and work from that. In other words, I can set the mill on top of the block (hardened) which is set on the part (brass, for instance), and know the mill is exactly 1" from the part. Then, I can dial down depth of cut from there.

Mostly I use them as fixturing when laying out, with the same purpose. Known distance, and work from there.


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## Frank Ford

I use 123-block to measure tapers on small parts, like this Hawaiian guitar steel:




First, I set the steel upright on a nice flat surface. My surface plate was, as usual, covered and buried over in the corner, so I chose my mill table. Laying a 1-2-3 block on its side, I could hold my digital caliper flat on top of the block, squeeze it to contact the steel, and set the readout to zero:




Repeating the same caliper technique using the block with the two inch dimension turned upright, I was certain that my caliper was exactly one inch higher, and by closing the caliper down, I got an immediate readout of the taper per inch:


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## Frank Ford

They're super handy for clamping stuff, too - here I'm using two as parallels in the mill vise:


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## Pauls77

Hi All,

Inspired a bit by this thread, I got out my "Brown & Sharp" (china) 123 block set again this weekend. 

The blocks are OK, and they came in a nice plastic box with a set of 5 SS 3/8" SHCS, and even an allen wrench.

However, I've always been disappointed that the holes are not sized for the provided screws to go through. 
5 of the holes are tapped 3/8-16, the rest of the holes seem to be the tap-drill size, 5/16", and have copious burrs where the holes intersect each other. This sort of makes them useless holes. 

Of course the blocks are hardened, so opening up the holes is going to be a challenge ( at least for my shop).

So I took a stab at trying to improve the situation. First thing I did was use a hardened 5/16" (actually .300") punch to try and knock off some of the worst burrs. This went OK and I can now get the punch through each hole.

Next I chucked up a length of 5/16" brass in the lathe, chamfered the edge, and applied a generous slather of course valve grinding compound to it. I then carefully started work on honing open some holes to at least accept a 5/16" pin or bolt. 

I spent about a half hour working on just three holes. It went sort of OK, they are now somewhat better, but I'm still far from where I want to be, and there are a lot of holes left to do!

So that's where I left it. I thought I'd ask here if any one else has this problem with their 123's and has solved it in a better way.

Thanks,
PaulS


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## Frank Ford

Pauls77 link=topic=1725.msg10973#msg10973 date=1303142518 said:
			
		

> I thought I'd ask here if any one else has this problem with their 123's and has solved it in a better way.



My blocks are OK, but I think I'd have at the problem with a regular carbide tipped masonry bit. With the block held in the mill vise, and cranking the knee up slowly to avoid grabbing, the bit might just knock off the burrs without much problem. Then again, may be not - but I'd still go at it to see what happens.


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## Old Iron

I have 2 sets of the B &aS 123 Blocks and one set marked China. They have the same problems as the other sets.

I was thinking about using Franks idea because we used to use them to drill hard plate in the fab shop. We used Kerosene for a coolant. I don't understand there thinking on those, And as far as them being the right measurement the cheap ones come closer.

Paul


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## Pauls77

Hi,

Carbide masonry bit sounds like it's worth a try, good idea.
I"ll see if I can pick one up in 5/16" this week and give it a shot in the MillDrill.

Thanks,
PaulS


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## HMF

I'm assuming here that the burrs are a result of a not very careful job in their manufacture.

Being allthumbz, I'd worry that I would somehow enlarge the holes using a same-size drill bit. Could the burrs be removed with a stone or file?

Thanks,


Nelson


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