# Small V Block?



## petertha (Apr 3, 2016)

Often I find myself wanting a smaller version of the typical V block for some smallish, finicky work. The typical catalog blocks start at ~ 1.x - 1.5" in section, intending to hold say .4 - 1" round stock. Ideally I'd like something about 1/2 that scale. I have a shallow V groove ground in one of my little toolmaker vises, but its not quite the same for certain setups.  I'm about to make one if I cant find anything, but thought I'd check if anyone has seen these anywhere?

ps, I've seen this system & also those round jeweler 'bench blocks, '... still not really what I'm after
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3718&category=


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## francist (Apr 3, 2016)

Do search for "wee blocks" instead of "vee blocks", I believe Harig makes some as well as a few others. No idea of price.

-frank


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## kd4gij (Apr 3, 2016)

If you have a mill it would make a fun easy project.


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## petertha (Apr 3, 2016)

kd4gij said:


> If you have a mill it would make a fun easy project.


Yes, that's what I'm thinking too. I've done something similar making a 45-deg V cuts with an end mill. Setting up the block 45-deg is relatively straightforward. Its the EM depth & resultant centering that has me wondering. Maybe if I milled a single chunk, then cut into two same length blocks & labelled a common side which are to always remain aligned during V setup, that might mitigate the problem of milling discrepancy. Its not like these have to be within 0.0002" and I don't have hardening/grinding resources. Its more for convenience of setup. A home brew version would allow me to come up with low profile clamps mimicking the big brothers while I'm at it. I guess that's why I just assumed something like this already existed... for $10... in a wooden box.. shipped free from Asia


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## kd4gij (Apr 4, 2016)

I would never spend $10.00 on something I can make for $25.00 and hours of labor.


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## Billh50 (Apr 5, 2016)

leave the block oversized and then cut the V to a scribed centerline. After the V is cut to a depth you want, put a pin in the V and check center with an indicator. Check both ends also to make sure you are level. Then remove the difference from the higher side to make even.


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## Steve Shannon (Apr 5, 2016)

Little Machine Shop makes some tiny vee blocks which are designed to be held in larger vee blocks:
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3718



 Steve Shannon


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## petertha (Apr 5, 2016)

Billh50 - that's a smart idea, going to do that

SteveS - actually I also want to use these mini blocks in a smaller toolmaker vise, so the larger vee block isn't quite as handy. Thanks for the heads up though, that looks handy


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## petertha (Jun 20, 2016)

My rainy day project using up some scrap HRS. I opted for a grid of simple, low profile hold-down clamps to accommodate machining different stock areas. Personally I find those tall U-clamps on standard V blocks either in the way of the quill, or not holding securely during machining. Maybe they aren't even intended to be used that way?

This is actually a jig plate for specific project. I additionally need to orientate it in mill vise at a specific angle top view, so have to figure out some matching front & rear angle blocks.  It turned out not bad I guess. A surface grinder would come in handy right about now  I'm going to blacken it just for rust protection. The V-groove was a learning experience. I set the rectangular blank up in a standard V block & used an end mill distanced off an edge for centering. As you can see, the side mill side finished nicer than the bottom mill side. So next time I should probably flip it to do both sides the same? Now that I have it, I might actually make me a set of say 3 blocks with different V groove depths so I'm equipped to hold any progressive diameter range like 2mm 5mm 10mm etc. Anyway, one of those hopefully useful homebrew tools you don't see in catalogs.


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## easymike29 (Jun 21, 2016)

View attachment 131080

	

		
			
		

		
	
 Something like this?


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## ELHEAD (Jun 21, 2016)

kd4gij said:


> I would never spend $10.00 on something I can make for $25.00 and hours of labor.


I'm with you brother, only $25 and days of looking for salvaged materials would be my typical cost.
If you have the capability, make it. 
Dave


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## FOMOGO (Jun 21, 2016)

That looks like a very useful setup, regardless of size. Added to my ever expanding list of projects. Cheers, Mike


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## Ed ke6bnl (Jun 21, 2016)

did you use a regular flat bottomed mill tool to do the vee and just set the work at 45 degrees and raise the knee and take cuts?


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## petertha (Jun 21, 2016)

Ed ke6bnl said:


> did you use a regular flat bottomed mill tool to do the vee and just set the work at 45 degrees and raise the knee and take cuts?


Essentially yes. First I roughed it undersize with a fine tooth hogger, then used this shell mill thinking (hoping?) the bottom surface might cut cleaner than a regular end mill. The side turned out ok but the bottom was a bit scratchy.


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## petertha (Jun 21, 2016)

easymik29 - I think I like yours more! I only have one small reservation & that's maybe the threaded holes coinciding. Have you made one already?


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## tq60 (Jun 21, 2016)

Use standard very block to hold square stock at a perfect 45 degree then use standard end mill to cut out new v.

Rotating part allows for equal cutting distance from edge

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## Ed ke6bnl (Jun 21, 2016)

I like the rotating idea, I will be trying this again. I made a small vee in plate with a bolt down plate on top to hold small material to be bandsawed


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## easymike29 (Jun 22, 2016)

petertha said:


> easymik29 - I think I like yours more! I only have one small reservation & that's maybe the threaded holes coinciding. Have you made one already?




The holes would actually closer to the V than in my illustration.  They don't have to be very deep being as they're only 8-32 on mine. You could even stagger them if you were concerned.  One pair of holes should be close to the end for holding small parts therefore  you could stagger them on adjacent faces.  All of your home made tooling should be tailored for your particular needs. Ideally you would make the blocks from heat treatable steel such as O-1 then be surface ground for accuracy. Even if you don't have a surface grinder I would still make the tooling from steel that can be hardened to Rc 60/62.  Maybe someday you'll have that grinder.


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## Chip Hacket (Jun 22, 2016)

Could someone explain the procedure for blackening for rust prevention?  I think that is something I need to learn.  Is this similar to using a gun blue kit?

--Chip


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