# Clausing/Colchester 11" (Colchester Bantam 2000)



## TAWP Tool

Hello all,

Just last night I finished the cleanup of my new (to me) lathe. It is a  Clausing/Colchester 11" gear head lathe (11x30). It is known as a  Colchester Bantam 2000 in the UK. It was built in 1979. This happens to  be the youngest machine in my little workshop.

When I received it, it had grease, oil and grime over much of it, but  had little to no wear. I retained the stock 2hp 3ph motor, and installed  a Teco VFD to manage it. I now have variable speed and a MachTach installed.  The panel that it's mounted on is temporary until I can build a  suitable dedicated enclosure.

This lathe is probably the one that my Wife will have to bury me with! haha It's a dream to run and I really enjoy it.

I bought it with a Buck 3-jaw chuck, an Aloris QCTP and six tool  holders, but little else. I am actively searching for a follow rest and  steady rest for it. I would prefer original, but I may have to resort to  other options. They are difficult to find!

Guy 				

And now for some pics...


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## xalky

Nice lathe. Thats a perfect size for a home shop. I'm looking for a lathe in that size class, up to like a 13x40 would be ideal. Very very nice. I too would like something newer for a lathe. My newest machine is the Bridgeport 1974 which is not terribly old. My oldest is my 1938 SouthBend 9 without quick change gears or thread indexer.


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## PurpLev

that is a great looking lathe. congrats!


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## Cheeseking

Hey Guy,

I just found this forum and decided to join.   Think I spoke with you on the Colchester users group awhile back and I believe we have pretty much the same exact machines!  Yours looks great shape from the pics.  I'll have to try and post some of mine from my phone.
I am running it with a 7.5 hp rotary converter but I think VFD definitely has some advantages.
IMO in many respects we have the perfect little home shop lathe.  Have not seen anything remotely close (possibly the Emco maximat super-11) as good quality, geared, not too big, not too small.  Like you I am tickled to death with it.  Parts are still available but bend over and pick up the soap!

I will keep my eye out for a steady and follower for ya.  Rare as hens teeth but you never know.   The only option mine is missing is the taper attachment.  

CK


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## Tamper84

Very nice!!!!!!


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## Cheeseking

Figuring out how to post pics. 
Anyway here's my Bantam (and my BP mill just got set up after a year of disassembly-cleaning-reassembly)
I have done a few projects but so far most of my time and effort has been getting everything down in the basement and all set up. 




Em


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## Cheeseking

Shoot sorry guys I must have done something wrong.  All i see are ? ? Marks where pics should be.


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## Cheeseking

Cheeseking said:


> Figuring out how to post pics.
> Anyway here's my Bantam (and my BP mill just got set up after a year of disassembly-cleaning-reassembly)
> I have done a few projects but so far most of my time and effort has been getting everything down in the basement and all set up.



Think I finally figured out how to add pics  )


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## Cheeseking

While Im posting figured Id throw up a little project I did few years back when I was reassembling my Bantam.   The way wipers on mine were hardened and crumbling.  Clausing said they could still be ordered but the cost was un-holy!!!   I reverse engineered off the one that was still intact and made myself a little open pour mould out of aluminum.   I tried liquid castable polyurethane (so so) and here I tried some metrology putty.  I got a small sample of it from a trade show and it turned out to be just enough to fill my mold and make one set!  Turned out pretty nice if I do say so)
The repro rubber is fairly costly but it sure works nice and cures in like 5 minutes.  The urethane I got from Smooth-on was messy to mix, took overnight to cure and there seemed to be bunch of air bubbles in the part.  My gating and riser design was seat of the pants educated guestimate on dimensoions and proportions.   Yeah I know a sheet of neoprene and a utility knife would have been tons easier but hey, this is a hobby after all....


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## TAWP Tool

Paul, that is awesome! That is some beautiful work! 

I too contacted Clausing to see how much a replacement set would cost me. Don't quote me on the price, but I seem to remember that a set was $375! Ouch!

I would like to help you recoup the cost of your time on the molds, and material of course - Can I buy a set from you?

Guy





Cheeseking said:


> While Im posting figured Id throw up a little project I did few years back when I was reassembling my Bantam.   The way wipers on mine were hardened and crumbling.  Clausing said they could still be ordered but the cost was un-holy!!!   I reverse engineered off the one that was still intact and made myself a little open pour mould out of aluminum.   I tried liquid castable polyurethane (so so) and here I tried some metrology putty.  I got a small sample of it from a trade show and it turned out to be just enough to fill my mold and make one set!  Turned out pretty nice if I do say so)
> The repro rubber is fairly costly but it sure works nice and cures in like 5 minutes.  The urethane I got from Smooth-on was messy to mix, took overnight to cure and there seemed to be bunch of air bubbles in the part.  My gating and riser design was seat of the pants educated guestimate on dimensoions and proportions.   Yeah I know a sheet of neoprene and a utility knife would have been tons easier but hey, this is a hobby after all....


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## Cheeseking

Hey the way I see it anything is worth a shot!!  
 Im Not totally pleased with the 2 materials I tried so far.  The repro rubber was super fast and easy to mold and looked great but the compound is too soft IMO and also not sure of the compatibility with the way lube.  Its also very pricey which defeats us home guys purpose.   The castable urethane (from Smooth-on) set came out so so.  Seemed kinda brittle maybe I didnt mix it right.  Also for lack of mold release I used some silicone spray and wiped of the excess leaving ony a residue.  Its possible it could have not played nice with the urethane.  Who knows Im not a chemist  
Guy - got your email.  Id be glad to shoot you a set once I figure out what material /procedure to use.  How bout you spring for and send me the goop and Ill make a whole bunch up??
Just have to figure out what material....!


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## Badge171

Have the same machine. Love it, CRAZY expensive parts,,,,, I used thick felt for my wipers. Very inexpensive ,worked great. I do have a follower rest 11" ,and a 12" OEM steady rest I would like to sell.
Regards 
Frank


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## Cheeseking

Very stoked!  Scored an OEM taper turning attachment for my 11"x 30
Dont have any pics yet its all apart being cleaned pc by pc.   Got the original install manual and brochure to boot.   Oh btw $0.  Long story.   I had to forfit my existing cross slide leadscrew and nut.


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## Badge171

Here is a picture of mine . Long story but I bought it, tore it apart, , move in my basement, along with my Bridgeport,Rebuilt both
	

		
			
		

		
	




	

		
			
		

		
	
 THEN sold the house. Tore apart again now its in my new home , along with the Bridgeport , tough project, *But happy ending,
Regards
*


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## Cheeseking

Looks nice Badge... Im so dreading when the day comes to move.   Hopefully youre there for awhile now!  Are the 5c collets for a closer on the lathe?


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## Badge171

Yes
 It has a D1-3 mount and a 5c collet system, finally found a steady rest,, But always searching for a Follow rest, Love the machine ,had a South Bend 9A , This one is so much more rigid and precise, 
Regards


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## Cheeseking

Forgot to mention the neat little HI/LO/Stop lever modification.   Pretty cool especially for shorter persons.  The stock location is quite high.   
Also looks like you have the cherrying head in back.   What are those typically used for btw?


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## Badge171

I do have a shaping attachment, Its uses are vast, slot cutting and any shaping your tool profile will cut, truth is have not used it much, got a great deal on it and had to have it. The switch I made up after an article in home shop machinist, Really like it once you train the brain not to reach for the motor switch, Check the oiler.. Much better than wearing all the oil in the beginning of a project, You can regulate the amount
Regards
Frank


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## Cheeseking

Well I got my original feeddscrew/nut back (more long story) so now can change back and forth as req.   ill leave the main taper attachment bracket on just switch screwz when needed.   Got matching Royal 5C closer as well.   Very excited to get everything cleaned up and mounted.
May have to comeup with a no drill or cut mount for the lever bracket.   Dont like hacking on irreplacable stuff.


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## Cheeseking




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## dogbed

Guy,

I think I have the same lathe as you. I bought it on craigslist this weekend. I cant seem to find any info on this unit. I have had a quick look over it and the only thing resembling a model number is 0857, in small letters, above the badge on the gearbox. Any ideas?




Colin


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## drs23

Those are two gouges machines. I envy your skill and craftsmanship! At the risk of being nosy do you mind me asking how much it cost you to make them like new and how many man hours it took?

My hat's off to you sir. That's some of the finest work I've seen anywhere.

Sincere congratulations on two jobs well done?

Dale


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## TAWP Tool

Colin,

That is the same lathe! I have sold mine, but you are now in possession of one fine machine! I wish that I hadn't sold mine, but my situation warranted it.

What I typically searched for was the UK equivalent, the Bantam 2000. They are the same lathes as your Clausing/Colchester 11x30

You can find the serial number of your lathe on the tailstock end of the bed. Might have to clean it off. Contact Clausing with the serial number and they will be able to tell you who they shipped the lathe to and what year it is. Parts are available from them, but quite expensive.

Good luck and have fun with it!

Guy





dogbed said:


> Guy,
> 
> I think I have the same lathe as you. I bought it on craigslist this weekend. I cant seem to find any info on this unit. I have had a quick look over it and the only thing resembling a model number is 0857, in small letters, above the badge on the gearbox. Any ideas?
> 
> View attachment 58850
> 
> 
> Colin


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## Cheeseking

Guy...Nooooooooooooo way!! You sold that beauty????!!!  Sorry to hear it but I understand sometimes circumstance dictates.   

Dogbed the 11x30 is a wonderful machine you wont be disappointed.   Perfect size for home/hobby use. Mostly it was hundreds of hours over a cookie sheet, rags, wire brushing and spraying each pc nut bolt etc.   The machine at its core was sound when I got it just needed a good clean.   I think I posted the pdf manual in the uploads section so you can pull a copy.   If not PM or email me.
If you have any questions I'll br glad to help you out since I am very familiar with this particular machine.


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## Flightmap

I too, called Clausing on the the way wipers: way too expensive!!!  If you continue in your pursuit of a "home made version" I would be very interested in the possibility of purchasing a set.

Right now, I am using bicycle tire rubber as a substitute

Ken


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## dogbed

I'd love to see details on the wipers you've come up with.


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## Cheeseking

I still have the mold and some castable urethane.   So I could certainly try and make a few more if it will help.  Looks like we have 2 or 3 of us here with 11" Colchesters that could use a set?


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## Badge171

I would like a set, depending on cost 
Thanks


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## Cheeseking

Ok guys give me a bit and I will work on this and pour some. The blue repro rubber from flexbar co molds beautifully but its pretty soft when cured IMO and def not cheap!     I think I mentioned in one of the posts I wasnt too thrilled with the particular compound I initially used.  Its nasty stuff to mix, fumes, gloves, sensitive to moisture the works.  Been sitting for 5 years so the shelf life is way gone.   If anyone wants to pony up and buy their choice of pourable material, send it to me and Id be glad to give it a shot.  Otherwise I will try another batch of this PMC-790 see if I cant get a better cure this time.  
If they come out decent Ill let you guys know and we'll work out a very reasonable deal.   Obviously my intent is not to hawk stuff for sale here just poorly compensate for my effort and shipping 

These are not fully detailed prints by any means but give the basic concept.   Feel free to copy, improve, make your own mold etc..








Heres a few pics of the original wiper (black) the repro rubber (blue) and the PMC-790 (amber). 




And the mold


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## dogbed

I am definitely interested.


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## tr4252

Outstanding job on the wipers! Have you heard of a Devcon product called Flexane? It's a 2 part urethane RTV which is available in 80 and 94 durometer densities, in addition to an additive they also sell which will make the material more flexible. 

Sending PM.

Tom


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## Cheeseking

To those Colchester owners still interested in a pair of these V wipers shoot me a PM

I made a set last weekend and they came out pretty decent.   Used no mold release so as to not contaminate the cure.   Seem a bit stronger but I wish they were a tad harder.


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## drs23

Those turned out nicely. Cudos on a very nice job!


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## brightonmike

Hi Guys

I have a Clausing/Colcheter 12" (Colchester Colt) very similar in appearance to the Bantam 13" swing. I PMed Cheeseking for my way wipers, but I have another question that I'm hoping Bantam owners that have had theirs apart can help with. I can't seem to figure out any way to 0 out my crosfeed or compound dials for reference. The crosfeed has a small thumbwheel that the manual says should be loosened and retightened after adjustment but it seems not to do anything. I have removed the handwheels and can see that they both have a keyway that slides onto a key on the leadscrew, and also have a key that slides into a keyway on the dial cartridge, so everything moves together. But no way to slide the cartridge independently to zero the dial. I have corresponded with Tony Griffiths at lathes.co.uk and his response was that this type of dial normally has a friction setting with a spring and ball hidden between the inside and outside sections - but instead it might have some sort of lock that has been engaged. It should, certainly, be able to zero.  What am I missing?


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## valleyboy101

Beautiful lathe Guy,
You say you cleaned it up - that's an understatement, it looks pretty much show room condition. It'll be a lifer for sure.
Michael


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## Cheeseking

LOL!   Machine porn...
I just got done cleaning her up after a job and couldn't resist snapping a few before messing it up again.
Btw I never had a positive thing to say about chuck guards but have to say the one I added has worked out really well last couple yrs.   Keeps most of the chips semi contained and more importantly oil spray off the chuck when using lube.   Flips up easy and locks quick at varoius heights to avoid TP lever.
Work light was another good add.   Im friggin blind so never enough light.


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## fogleew

Hello all.  My son and I just purchased a Clausing Colchester 11 (Colchester bantam 1600 mk2).  We have just set it up in the garage using a rotary converter to power the 3 phase motor.  Everything appears to be working so we are trying to determine the best setup.  First question is how best to mount to the floor.  Our initial plan is to raise the unit 8 inches for better access using 2 Short I beams w cross support.  We have not decided how best to incorporate leveling features and if we need it hard mounted to the floor.  Any recommendations?

Other items while we work the installation.
1 best way to clean off all the old grime.  Kerosene?
2 recommendation for lighting.
3 best way to determine if ways are in good shape and not worn.
4 best source for gear train parts.  We have excess slop on thread gear bushing.

any help appreciated.


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## fogleew

Pictures of our lathe as we moved into garage.  Covered in grease and dirt.  The worn bushing that holds the middle gears for thread drive under the side cover.


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## Cheeseking

Congrats on the new to you machine!
Parts are still available thru Clausing but grab your ankle$

Phone: (800) 323-0972 
Fax: (269) 342-7888 
email: info@clausingsc.com

You could also try Frank @ FDK3
http://fdk3co.com/
If he doesnt have it I'm sure will lay out your options on where to get it.


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## Cheeseking

As far as cleaning it up,  it depends to what degree you plan to take it.  I would at minimum change the headstock oil and clean up the ways and the gear train for the feed.   
Fine Scotch brite pads work well but go easy.  It is abrasive after all so you  don't want to go overboard .   Just enough to remove any light rust or tarnishing.  I used LPS with the pads to aid cutting action and reduce dusting.  Thoroughly clean the abrasive grit afterwards.    
For me "Cleaning it up" ended up taking a good 4-6 months of painstaking work.   Every part with the exception of the headstock internals worked over with chemicals ranging from wd40, LPS,  simple green, wire brushes, scotch brite, soap and hot water, dental picks, stones, rags, towels you name it.  In the end I feel it was worth the effort.
You may or may not want to take it to that extreme.  Btw I see you got a steady rest too!  Nice bonus since many seem to be missing.


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## samthedog

The clean up process is long. I have used window washing fluid and WD40 mostly as it does not discolour the paint of the machine.

In the clean up, make sure you clean under the saddle, the leadscrews and bronze nuts, drain and replace all oil, and upgrade to new way wipers. Anywhere 2 surfaces slide, get in there and clean it up properly with window washing fluid, then oil it up. You will be surprised how much smoother everything will function.

Also, make sure to grease any areas that require it. You may need to disassemble before doing this as grease can harden over time and this decreases the lubrication properties significantly.

There are a number of posts if you do a search on how to check headstock alignment and wear on the ways. The good news is that your lathe has hardened ways so providing the previous owner did the minimum cleaning and oiling, I would expect the accuracy to be OK. I have a 48 year old Chipmaster that was used quite a bit but is still within .01 mm or better as it was regularly oiled. A visual inspection of the ways near the chuck should give you an indication of the wear.

Paul.


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## Cheeseking

Fog.  
Couple more suggestions.   
As far as raising the machine 8" boy that seems like a lot.   I suppose its personal preference and how tall you are.   Im 5-11" and with just std leveling mounts it puts the carriage hand-wheel crank at perfect level.   To me that means handle at BDC/6 oclock and my arm  down with only slight bend in elbow.  
The PO of mine was 6-6" and in fact he used i beams just like you are contemplating.   
Heres the feet I used.




As far as greasing anything - oh my just don't.
Once you do the heavy lifting cleaning up all the gunk and mis guided grease application, all you need is oil and oil and more (way) oil and rags.  Mobil Vactra is a cheap, effective and available product.   Wipe down and re oil after every use.  Your post inspired me to remove the end cover and do some routine wiping and oiling.   
 It might not look like it but believe it or not I actually USE my machine quite a bit but am very thorough cleaning it afterwards. 




Also if you need wipers for the v-ways I can possibly help.  See earlier posts in this thread.

Lighting suggestions?
Well I can't speak for others but to me the older I get there can never be enough!   How high is your ceiling where you will work??   I mounted a 4' florescent fixture directly above that goes on with the shop lights + a machine mounted incandescent task light.  Still find myself with a sm flashlight peeking down bores!


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## brightonmike

Just received and installed my way wipers from cheeseking. They look and work great. Would recommend to anyone needing to replace yours. Thanks CK!


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## horace

hello everybody,sorry for being away so long. I've been very busy in refurbishing home for my son's wedding occasion . Now the wedding is over it was last Sunday. Now I'm free again,I'm happy to say that very lately I purchased a Colchester Bantam 2000 mk 2. This week I started inspecting it and found out that an inverter cannot be fitted to the motor because it is a 415V. 2 speed.So now I'm looking for suggestions.I wish to keep it as close to original as possible as possible.One suggestion is to fit a s. ph 3 hp. slow speed motor,  I don't like it, because I'll be loosing half the speeds and may be the turning strength be weakened. If I go s.ph  I  prefer a 2 speed motor, or else a 3 ph high speed  3 hp motor with an inverter.Any suggestions or any help would be highly appreciated


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## samthedog

Cheeseking said:


> As far as greasing anything - oh my just don't.
> Once you do the heavy lifting cleaning up all the gunk and mis guided grease application, all you need is oil and oil and more (way) oil and rags.  Mobil Vactra is a cheap, effective and available product.



Some things may need greasing depending on the age of the lathe. For example, the motor spindle, matrix clutch and oil barrier in the headstock. You shouldn't use grease anywhere else - although I do on the change gears on my chipmaster. Since they are protected in the end cover and never see swarf, I use a Molygrease as it sticks like poop to a blanket and I know it won't run off.

Paul.


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## Cheeseking

Horace,  I would try to stay as close to original as possible.   2 Hp is plenty of power on this machine.  I found a great replacement motor from Automation Direct for about $200 
and swapped mine out earlier this year. 
2hp 240v 3P TEFC.  1750 rpm.  Cast iron frame. 145T frame size.  
Couple mods I needed to do were flip the shaft and conduit box orientation and trim the fan cover back a little.  Ymmv depending on the vagaries of the sheet metal work and electrical layout on your specific machine.  Looking back, if I would have known I needed to dis-assemble the new motor to make it work, I could have just opened the old motor and replaced the armature bearings as those were causing the noise prompting motor change in the first place!   Oh well.


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## Clem

horace said:


> hello everybody,sorry for being away so long. I've been very busy in refurbishing home for my son's wedding occasion . Now the wedding is over it was last Sunday. Now I'm free again,I'm happy to say that very lately I purchased a Colchester Bantam 2000 mk 2. This week I started inspecting it and found out that an inverter cannot be fitted to the motor because it is a 415V. 2 speed.So now I'm looking for suggestions.I wish to keep it as close to original as possible as possible.One suggestion is to fit a s. ph 3 hp. slow speed motor,  I don't like it, because I'll be loosing half the speeds and may be the turning strength be weakened. If I go s.ph  I  prefer a 2 speed motor, or else a 3 ph high speed  3 hp motor with an inverter.Any suggestions or any help would be highly appreciated



Hello.  I've also just bought a Bantam 2000 Mk2., which has a 3kW two speed 415V three phase motor.  I though I might swap in a new, dual voltage, lower power motor but, after a bit of reading on the internet and a lot of talking to people, I decided to try just hooking it up to a 2.2kW (I think) VFB inverter.  I wired it up to the low-speed windings on the motor and it seems to work a treat.  At the moment, my max. speed is 990rpm.  I tried hooking the inverter up to the high speed windings (let's call them terminals 4, 5 and 6), leaving terminals 1, 2 and 3 unconnected and, although it did run up to full speed, it was low on torque.  However, when I turned the frequency down on the inverter, it had more torque although, obviously, at lower speed.  My next thing is to try hooking the inverter up to terminals 4, 5 and 6 and connecting terminals 1, 2 and 3 together, to see if that works any better for the high speed.  I'm going to stay on the low speed windings for now, as I rarely need to go above 990rpm.  Obviously, I won't be getting the full 3kW of power but I doubt I'll notice that.  I'm running the inverter off a 240V, single phase supply through a 13A plug with no problems so far.  If necessary, I will swap in a proper dual voltage motor at a later date.  There's quite a bit of stuff about this on the internet and, if you're in the UK, I can let you know who I bought the inverters off as he's a very helpful man: with his advice, I have managed to wire the original apron control lever and also the emergency footbrake into the inverter and they work a treat.  I have also managed to wire my coolant pump into another inverter, again with his advice.  Please get in touch if you want any more information: I've got a few crude wiring sketches that I did to get it all wired in, and some pictures.  Enjoy.

I have a question of my own about changing feed rates on this machine but I think I'd better post it somewhere else in this forum (I've never used a forum for anything before, so am a bit new to it all).


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## Clem

View attachment Screw Cutting Gearbox Woes.pdf

Hello All,

I hope somebody can help me with my question on a lovely lathe I've just got.

I've just acquired a Colchester Mk. 2 Bantam 2000 and have got it up and running and have even taken a quick facing test cut with it and it all seems OK.

However, I am having some difficulty with trying to change the feed rate.  It seems that, whatever combination of the screw cutting gearbox levers I engage, the speed of the feed shaft doesn't change and nor does that of the leadscrew (I've tried to explain this clearer in the attached).  Both shafts turn and transmit power OK and the levers feel like they're engaging properly (I get that having-to-wiggle-the-spindle-to-fully-engage-the-levers feeling when I'm engaging them) so I don't think anything's broken.  I feel like I'm missing some crucial step but don't know what.  Can anybody offer any advice, please?

Thanks and have a nice Christmas all,

Clem.


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## Cheeseking

Clem.  Could a key be sheared and power is being transmitted only via friction?   Theres a 1/8" dia shear pin on the headstock  gear that drives the input to the feed gearbox.  Maybe check that pin.


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## Cheeseking

I almost finished installing latest upgrade on
	

		
			
		

		
	






	

		
			
		

		
	
 my bantam today.  Santa brought me a DroPro magnetic scale DRO couple weeks ago.   
Had to mount the cross slide axis scale unconventionally so as to maintain access to the gib adj screws and compound lock bolts.


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## Clem

Cheeseking said:


> Clem.  Could a key be sheared and power is being transmitted only via friction?   Theres a 1/8" dia shear pin on the headstock  gear that drives the input to the feed gearbox.  Maybe check that pin.



Hello,
Thank you very much for replying so quickly. I'll check this but I'm pretty sure it's ok. When I take the cover off the back and turn the headstock spindle by hand I can see the input to feed gearbox turning. I fear I may have to look inside the gearbox itself but I'm not sure how I do this. Any advice gratefully received!
Thanks.


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## srosefx

Clem said:


> Hello.  I've also just bought a Bantam 2000 Mk2., which has a 3kW two speed 415V three phase motor.  I though I might swap in a new, dual voltage, lower power motor but, after a bit of reading on the internet and a lot of talking to people, I decided to try just hooking it up to a 2.2kW (I think) VFB inverter.  I wired it up to the low-speed windings on the motor and it seems to work a treat.  At the moment, my max. speed is 990rpm.  I tried hooking the inverter up to the high speed windings (let's call them terminals 4, 5 and 6), leaving terminals 1, 2 and 3 unconnected and, although it did run up to full speed, it was low on torque.  However, when I turned the frequency down on the inverter, it had more torque although, obviously, at lower speed.  My next thing is to try hooking the inverter up to terminals 4, 5 and 6 and connecting terminals 1, 2 and 3 together, to see if that works any better for the high speed.  I'm going to stay on the low speed windings for now, as I rarely need to go above 990rpm.  Obviously, I won't be getting the full 3kW of power but I doubt I'll notice that.  I'm running the inverter off a 240V, single phase supply through a 13A plug with no problems so far.  If necessary, I will swap in a proper dual voltage motor at a later date.  There's quite a bit of stuff about this on the internet and, if you're in the UK, I can let you know who I bought the inverters off as he's a very helpful man: with his advice, I have managed to wire the original apron control lever and also the emergency footbrake into the inverter and they work a treat.  I have also managed to wire my coolant pump into another inverter, again with his advice.  Please get in touch if you want any more information: I've got a few crude wiring sketches that I did to get it all wired in, and some pictures.  Enjoy.
> 
> I have a question of my own about changing feed rates on this machine but I think I'd better post it somewhere else in this forum (I've never used a forum for anything before, so am a bit new to it all).



i have a new thread requesting some help that you may be able to answer.
I would appreciate your input. thanks
Simon
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...0-Motor-Problems?p=263614&posted=1#post263614


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## zmotorsports

Cheeseking said:


> I almost finished installing latest upgrade on
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my bantam today. Santa brought me a DroPro magnetic scale DRO couple weeks ago.
> Had to mount the cross slide axis scale unconventionally so as to maintain access to the gib adj screws and compound lock bolts.




Nice.  I love your mill and lathe setup.  I drool a little bit every time I see it.

Keep the pics of them coming.


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## sakurama

I just joined up to this site after finding this thread which has more photos of the Clausing Colchester 11" than anywhere else on the web I think including Tony's Lathes UK site which actually uses a photo of my lathe for the 11". Anyway, there's some very nice lathes here and I appreciate the photos of the different accessories. I have pretty much everything for my lathe save the taper attachment which I suspect will be something I will search forever. The steadies I found in the UK along with the metric change gears. I have fitted a VFD and a DRO and I'll try to dig up some photos of them if anyone's interested. Here's a shot of my lathe with the Rockwell mill. 




And there's a very extensive thread on the building of my garage shop here: Mid-Century Moto Mecca Makeover 

Cheeseking if you're still making those wipers I'd love to get a set - feel free to PM me or reply here. 

Thanks for the info and photos. 

Gregor


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## Cheeseking

Hey Gregor welcome aboard!  Love seeing other folks with the baby 11" Colchester.   Looks like you do some great work in your shop.  I'd be curious to see how you mounted the DRO scale on the cross slide.  I noodled quite awhile to figure out a mounting method for mine that did not block the compound lock screws.  You probably discovered the Bantam is a bit unique from most other lathes in that the lock screws are buried in the cross slide rather than exposed up top.  Mounting in the traditional fashion like DRO Pros shows would obscure the RH compound lock screw.  It could be left loose but that didn't seem wise.  I finally resorted to a custom SS top plate to mount the scale and a bunch of custom machined brackets for the read head to get it done.  I have been happy with how it works so far but boy was it a project.   Fortunately I have access to sheet metal fabrication equipment at work.
Oh and yes, I still have the mold for the V-wipers.  One of these days I need to break out the urethane and make up a few sets to get out to fellow Bantam owners.  I shipped 4-5 sets over the years and recently promised someone on here (I forget who now) a set but still have not done it. Lazy me.


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## Cheeseking

Some pics of the DRO mounting.   Made several iterations of the top plate till I got one to fit perfect.  This is one if the trial ones



Finished install.  





Wrench access


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## sakurama

I wanted my DRO to be out of the way and not interfere with any future mods or functionality so I ended up exchanging the slide that came with the DRO for a "slim" unit that I could hide in the notch of the saddle. This has worked out very well for the past 6 years and I can't imagine using a lathe without a DRO (or a mill for that matter). 




The scale is protected by a piece of aluminum angle and covers the full range of the cross slide. 










The DRO was put on a cut and rewelded arm that also holds the remote display/control for the VFD so that I can change the speed easily as I'm cutting. The best advantage of the VFD is the ability to just put the machine into reverse while threading metric. Speaking of which...




Since most of my work is on European motorcycles being able to thread metric was an essentially component. It took me about a year to find a 127 change gear but eventually I found that, the rest of the gears to make a complete set, a steady and a follow steady, a 5C collet changer and a number of other small parts. 




I tried to find the metric threading plate for years and finally gave up and made one myself (with a note to not disengage the half-nut) and had it printed in a style that matched the original. I'd be happy to share the file if anyone else should want to get one printed. 




Lastly was a tool holder holder that I made for the AXA holders and for metric threading I made a flip up lay down insert holder that allows me to just reverse the lathe while threading metric without having to back off the crossfeed. Between that and the VFD allowing me to just reverse the lathe metric threading is about as easy as imperial. 

Hope that the photos help others with the same lathe. 

Gregor


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## Badge171

Gregor
 I too have the same lathe.  Looking at your pictures , your oil site glass looks filled . Maybe I'm not seeing it correctly , or possibly I'm running my machine a lot lower in level than it should be? Any help appreciated.
Frank


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## Cheeseking

Yep thats pretty much the same place I put the read head as well.   For reversing I simply pull up on the lever and it reverses instantly although he phase converter definitely shrugs a bit.  I take it you are running single phase?  Regardless a  VFD is nice for infinite speeds that you can change while the machine is running.  Badge I noticed the same thing.  Hard to tell if its either totally empty or way overfilled.  I believe it's supposed to be filled to the center dot.  Mine might be a touch over filled.


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## Cheeseking

Hmm Interesting.  Im at Menards picking up some xmas supply's and noticed this
Tellus 32 oil.   Think it might be close enough to 27???


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## sakurama

Yes, they're overfilled. You all guilted me into opening up the top and draining out the excess. I usually run them slightly over the mark due to slower reaction times (oh, crap, I guess that's too much) and a general apathy towards gearbox levels. The lower box was overfilled to the top of the window which worked out to 4oz. and the top one was the same level over but the gearbox is larger and that worked out to about 12oz over. I did find that the two main bearings are lubricated by oil being flung off the gears to the top where the oil drips into two holes which weep onto the gears - very precise. One was slightly blocked with swarf so that was good to find and clean out but otherwise the gearbox looked perfect. I could be wrong but I doubt there's too much issue with the gearbox being slightly overfilled. It's not exactly spinning at the speed of a motorcycle transmission and they last for years. 

The upside is that I needed to top up the oil on the cold saw and now I have some extra. 

Gregor


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## Clem

I don't know if this is the right place to say this but I made a travelling steady for my Colchester Bantam (I think it is the same lathe as this one).  I got a 1" bit of steel laser cut and then machined it from there.  If anybody's interested, I can try to dig out some (not very good) drawings that I did and post them here.  I ended up changing some of the dimensions a little bit as I made a few careless mistakes in the machining but the drawings would at least be a starting point; and the mistakes didn't affect the function of the steady.   I did all the milling on a Boxford VM30, apart from one bit that I had to do on a friend's Bridgeport.  Anybody interested?  I'll also try to take a picture of the finished item (although I have painted it poorly).


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## dogbed

Clem,

I'd love to see them, especially with some pics! I am missing the rest and I think that would be a great project.


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## brightonmike

I would also be interested in seeing your plans.


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## wa5cab

The common name for the rest that is attached to and moves with the carriage is Follow Rest or Follower Rest.


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## Badge171

Thanks that's where I run mine.
Frank


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## sakurama

I have a question regarding my (our) lathe. I'm about to turn the most difficult part I've ever turned - a steering stem for a motorcycle fork conversion. I will have to turn dimensions for a shrink fit, a press fit, a slip fit and then a loose fit plus a pair of metric threads of 30x1mm and 28x1mm so it will certainly test my skill. 

My question is about runout. I turned the aluminum stock down to 1.125 to fit in the largest 5C collet and drilled the other end for a live center. I turned the whole thing to a dimension with a .010 finish pass over the length. Over the 11" the dimension is .008" tighter at the head stock. That works out to an error of .00072 an inch. 

Obviously the sections that require a very tight tolerance are less than an inch so this shouldn't be an issue and I'm sure more precise parts have been made with worse machines but I'm curious if this is a reasonable error and/or what could be done to improve it or if I should just know and accept it and work around it. 

Thanks,

Gregor


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## dogbed

Gregor,

I would check your tail stock alignment. It is probably adjusted a bit off toward the chip pan. You should be able to adjust it by doing that same cut you are doing or use a test bar between centers. 

Colin


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## Clem

Here they are.  I hope they're of interest.  The pictures aren't very good, I'm afraid.
	

		
			
		

		
	







	

		
			
		

		
	
  Please let me know if you have any questions.


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## Clem

sakurama said:


> I have a question regarding my (our) lathe. I'm about to turn the most difficult part I've ever turned - a steering stem for a motorcycle fork conversion. I will have to turn dimensions for a shrink fit, a press fit, a slip fit and then a loose fit plus a pair of metric threads of 30x1mm and 28x1mm so it will certainly test my skill.
> 
> My question is about runout. I turned the aluminum stock down to 1.125 to fit in the largest 5C collet and drilled the other end for a live center. I turned the whole thing to a dimension with a .010 finish pass over the length. Over the 11" the dimension is .008" tighter at the head stock. That works out to an error of .00072 an inch.
> 
> Obviously the sections that require a very tight tolerance are less than an inch so this shouldn't be an issue and I'm sure more precise parts have been made with worse machines but I'm curious if this is a reasonable error and/or what could be done to improve it or if I should just know and accept it and work around it.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Gregor


Hello Gregor,

I'm no expert but I reckon you can get a better runout than that.  I've found that, in this situation, I usually drill the end for the centre after I've put the piece in the 5C collet.  I also, quite often, end up adjusting the tailstock a little bit, using a clock, once the piece is in the collet with the centre in the end and the tailstock clamped, to make sure that everything is as well lined up as it can be.  It might actually prove easier to turn between centres, if you want good accuracy.  It's taken me a while to get used to doing things like this but, now that I've done it a few times, I get on OK with it.

I don't know if this is any help.  I'm really a beginner myself.


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## Badge171

Clem
 Cheeseking put some detailed plans up for me on the follow rest , There posted in another thread in this column. and some pictures of the one I made. His plans include pictures of the original equipment . Hope it helps
Frank


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## Cheeseking

Gregor, it sounds like your tailstock could be slightly offset.   
After I shot this video I re-checked sweeping the inside of the MT on the barrel vs the OD.   This is my rough hary eyeball method of checking.  






I believe the "real" way to check is traversing with an indicator along a ground bar mounted between centers.  If you are turning unwanted tapers when only holding by the chuck then I think the issue is headstock alignment to the bed.  Thats a whole nuther can of worms.


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## wa5cab

Turning a taper with the work piece held between centers or with chuck or collet and tailstock center is usually an indication of tailstock back set error.  Turning a taper with work piece held in chuck or collet may be an indication of a twisted bed or a worn bed.


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## Badge171

Isn't it possible with that machine that the headstock is out of alignment, It is adjustable . Rather than the bed being twisted ,or worn. Just a thought.


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## wa5cab

Yes.  However, unless it has had a bad crash or been dropped on the headstock, I would guess it is the least likely as headstocks are generally a tight fit between the ways and if there is an alignment problem, it would have almost had to have been that way since new.


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## sakurama

Yes, it was the tailstock that was out of alignment. I managed to adjust it so that the error over 11" is just under .001" which I don't know if I want to try to spend the time to try to improve. I don't know if I was doing it wrong to start but I was turning in the screw on the back side of the tailstock (loosening the one on the front) and the taper got worse so I went backwards to what I thought was the right way to adjust it and screwed in the adjustment screw on the front side and the taper went away and I got it to be basically on. Perhaps you guys are more patient than I am or more particular but I can't see trying to improve on .001" over 11". 

Thanks for the advice - it's good know I could turn an axle now if need be. 

Gregor



dogbed said:


> Gregor,
> 
> I would check your tail stock alignment. It is probably adjusted a bit off toward the chip pan. You should be able to adjust it by doing that same cut you are doing or use a test bar between centers.
> 
> Colin


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## wa5cab

Gregor,

0.001" per foot is pretty good.  If it is good enough for the parts that you want to make with it, I wouldn't fiddle with it any more.

I took "tighter near the headstock" to mean larger.  Which meant that the tailstock was too far forward (toward the operator).  I wasn't sure what Colin meant by "off toward the chip pan".  My chip pan is symmetrical.  But in any case, you figured out which direction to move the tailstock.


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## Kiwi

wa5cab said:


> The common name for the rest that is attached to and moves with the carriage is Follow Rest or Follower Rest.


I've always known them as a fixed or floating steady either way you would know


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## Clem

Kiwi said:


> I've always known them as a fixed or floating steady either way you would know


I've always known them as a fixed steady and a travelling steady!  As long as they do the job!


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## badboydas

Hi Guys
Sorry to jump in here, just bought one these beauties in a sorry state. Being delivered tomorrow, Don`t suppose anyone has a manual in PDF they would be willing to mail me or post a link to. attached a picture of it in its present location, as you can see it needs a lot of attention.
cheers
Sorry just found the manual in the downloads section cheers


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## sakurama

wa5cab said:


> Gregor,
> 
> 0.001" per foot is pretty good.  If it is good enough for the parts that you want to make with it, I wouldn't fiddle with it any more...



I _did_ fiddle with it some more and got it down under .0001 over 11" so I'm more than satisfied as this is the limit of my ability to measure with the micrometers I have. Took a while but I'm very happy to have it so dialed in right now. I just finished a steering stem and it was nice to be able to hit the numbers exactly wherever I needed.

As for the manual: I ended up buying a printed one (which is nothing more than a copy machine copy of an original... or another copy - it's bad) off of ebay. I'd love to have a nice PDF copy as I keep all my manuals on my iPad as it's easier to keep clean than a paper manual. Sadly, our machines predate computers so unless someone types in a copy or remakes one using OCR and nice scans of the images it's unlikely to find anything other than the copy of a copy of a copy...

Gregor


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## Cheeseking

Did you get the compound slide with it?   Hope so or that would be a real shame.   
Look forward to some photos after you get it cleaned up a bit.


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## badboydas

Cheeseking said:


> Did you get the compound slide with it?   Hope so or that would be a real shame.
> Look forward to some photos after you get it cleaned up a bit.


Yes got compound missing original Dickson toolpost but got holders albeit useless. few nuts and bolts missing along with all the back plates for three chucks, got catch plate and faceplate. It`s been sat in a garage for 10 years as a very poor bench he had originally started to strip it down got bored and left it till he passed late part of last year. but unfortunately the son thought scrap would be better than nothing so back plates gone. not too much of a worry  though, originals would have been nice. I will post as things progress should I start a new thread or would it be ok to continue this one?


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## badboydas

Gregor, I know what you mean we all strife for perfection or as close as we can get


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## Flightmap

Clausing USA has operating and parts manuals available in .pdf format. They were very prompt in sending me a copy
Ken


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## Clem

badboydas said:


> Hi Guys
> Sorry to jump in here, just bought one these beauties in a sorry state. Being delivered tomorrow, Don`t suppose anyone has a manual in PDF they would be willing to mail me or post a link to. attached a picture of it in its present location, as you can see it needs a lot of attention.
> cheers
> Sorry just found the manual in the downloads section cheers
> View attachment 122410


I've got one I can send you, if you let me know your e-mail address.  Failing that, if you ring Colchester (01924 415000, I think; it's on their website) and ask for the parts department, they should e-mail you one.  They e-mailed me one and it didn't cost anything.  They were very helpful.  It will help if you give them the serial number of your lathe, which is on the tailstock end of one of the slideways.  You can also get some spares off them.  Mill Hill Supplies in Harlow, Essex, have some bits for these lathes, as I think they originally made some of the parts, and he's a helpful man.


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## badboydas

Clem said:


> I've got one I can send you, if you let me know your e-mail address.  Failing that, if you ring Colchester (01924 415000, I think; it's on their website) and ask for the parts department, they should e-mail you one.  They e-mailed me one and it didn't cost anything.  They were very helpful.  It will help if you give them the serial number of your lathe, which is on the tailstock end of one of the slideways.  You can also get some spares off them.  Mill Hill Supplies in Harlow, Essex, have some bits for these lathes, as I think they originally made some of the parts, and he's a helpful man.


Cheers for the offer Clem
I spoke to Karen at Colchester, she was more than happy to email a manual.
excellent info
cheers


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## Cheeseking

Clem, dogbed...or anyone else looking for a factory steady rest for the 11" colchester.
I just noticed a sorry beat up 11x33 popped up on ebay that has a steady rest and a collet closer with it. Pretty sure its a dealer maybe they would sell you just the steady?


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## Lenard

Hello,
Just a curious question about the Colchester 11" lathe.
I have the chance to buy a used Colchester 11" for a fee of 200.00 and the machine is surface rust all over it and something is locked up on it. dirty is a good word for it but the wave is in exc. shape. Would this machine be worth the price to fix up? I really like all of the post on this machine so far.
Thanks and just wondering.


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## Cheeseking

Well, they are great little machines and $200 is practically free but if it needs parts they are very very  expensive and honestly depending on which ones it needs could be nla and you would need to find used.   That could take forever to never; again, depending in what exactly it needs.     "Surface rust" can be fixed with elbow grease.   What exactly is locked up?   
Got any photos?


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## Lenard

Cheeseking said:


> Well, they are great little machines and $200 is practically free but if it needs parts they are very very  expensive and honestly depending on which ones it needs could be nla and you would need to find used.   That could take forever to never; again, depending in what exactly it needs.     "Surface rust" can be fixed with elbow grease.   What exactly is locked up?
> Got any photos?


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## Lenard

Thanks for the fast answer. I just keep looking at it right now. No pictures yet. I have tired to turn the chuck. just locked up. Have tired to move the controls and they are locked up also. No movement at all on anything. Only handle that I can get to move is the tailstock. I really just keep looking at it and wonder if it worth the time and money. It is a 3 ph with no vfd to it.
 It will be two weeks before I can get pictures of it again. Will take a few and pass them on to you. Thank you for the response.
Also. I do have another lathe a G0709. I just been looking at it for a past time project.


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## Flightmap

As cheese king says.  Beautiful lathe IF you don't need parts.  Clausing will send you manuals and parts lists.


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## Lenard

Thanks for the comments. Would you have or know who to contact at Clausing for the manual? (Email address)


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## wa5cab

You are much better off calling them.  800-323-0972.  Ask for Colchester parts.


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