# Must Have Measuring Tools



## HMF

?    6" digital caliper, possibly a 12" as well
?    Dial test indicator
?    0-1" micrometer (0.0001" or better)
?    0-6" or 0-12" micrometer set
?    micrometer head
?    depth gage
?    gage blocks (aka Joe Blocks)
?    Dial indicator
?    Dial test indicator holder for mill spinlde, possibly indicol style
?    Magnetic base dial indicator holder
?    Comparator stand for dial indicator, you can get ones with an 8x10 granite surface plate
?    Thread measuring wires
?    telescoping bore gages
?    screw pitch gages
?    angle blocks
?    radius gage set
?    angle gage set
?    center line gage accessory for caliper
?    micrometer anvil set
?    surface finish comparator
?    Magnifying loupe with reticles
?    230X USB microscope
?    large surface plate, height gage, precision squares, etc. is nice to have but large, heavy, and expensive.
?    scale with right angle, center finder, and protractor
?    Universal bevel protractor
?    Sine bar
?    master precision level
?    pin gage sets, particularly the &lt;0.250" size
?    plain inside/outside calipers and dividers
?    kill-a-watt meter so you can see how many HP you are running

Please feel free to add to this list!

Best,

Nelson


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## aametalmaster

Looks like i need some more tools 
I use an old Craftsman 5 1/2" vernier caliper 99% of the time. I like it so much i found 2 more of them on ebay one used and a Fowler brand new in the box.
I have Sherr inside mics 1 9/16"-12"
Starrett OD mics 0-4" a few of each
5 or 6 different dial indicators all brands.
Sherr depth mics to 6" and a pile of other tools i don't use much...Bob


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## Arved

David - the jpgs you posted don't show up, and when I download them, I get an error that they're not a supported file format. Can you try again, please?

Thanks,
- Arved


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## Uncle Buck

The basics in measuring tools  (at least the basics to work broadly) 

A 0-6" dial/digital caliper Brand of your choosing or vernier if that is your liking.
Mics 0-4" with 0-6" being better. Brand of your choosing
An adjustable mag base and a fixed post ideally.
ID mic with rods to 12"
Depth mic that goes to 6" at a minimum is best
several 6" pocket rulers
Universal dial test indicator set
several back plunge indicators as well
Small hole gage set
telescoping gages
combination square with centerhead and protractor head
thread gages
machinists level
machinists squares
parallels
a set of 123 blocks


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## Tony Wells

Must haves? ALL OF THEM!!!


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## Uncle Buck

Tony Wells said:


> Must haves? ALL OF THEM!!!



My list is likely not as lean as many others, but I can explain. I have had this addiction to buying, trading and aquiring tools as I can since I was a young guy and as such generally I don't do very well thinking in terms of only must have tools or accessories to run the machines I own. Too my thinking it isn't much good to have a machine without having the tooling, measuring tools, and accessories to make the very most out of the machine. That isn't to say that a very skilled machinist cannot build you a rocketship with just a 1" mic, a dial caliper and a 6" ruler. (you get my drift) it is more a statement of a broader selection of measuring tools or options to be able to select from possibly being able to sort of compensate for the fact that one is perhaps not a crack machinist. (me) :biggrin:

To expand on the first paragraph I will further explain my thought process on buying tools. I have been buying tools for thirty five of my fourty nine years with no plans of stopping and have some definite thoughts on procurement of tools, machines and equipment bought for my own interests and not for making a living. In fact, I will follow this with a list of tool buying rules I follow. 

1) Always buy the best quality tool you can *AFFORD*, quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten.

2) Buy used as much as you can.

3) Know what tools cost new and used. Pay attention, study prices and brands alot. To succeed buying tools used you have to be able to think on your feet and buy at the time. That means you have to have a good sense of the worth of tools before buying them used. Not only the worth, but knowing good brands, both old and new goes a long way when buying tools used. If you cannot or do not have this ability you really need to avoid most used tools because in the long run you will lose more than you gain. The importance of knowing rough value of used being that by the time you leave and research the item, another guy will have already snapped up the deal and you lost out since you did not have the knowledge of the items worth. 

4) Buy USA as much as you can, however do not rule out an import or cheaper tool as the situation dictates. (my thing, I do not judge what others buy as that is their business) with that said, there are some tools where cheap alternatives can get you hurt or worse, a prime example being pullers. Also, along with pullers there are some other tools etc where cheap stuff just does not work. My list looks something like this. Sandpaper, drill bits, cutters, fuses and the like. One learns what can be trusted of the cheaper import stuff, and what is junk through use and purchase. Once you learn what the real junk is you just do not go there again. Some stuff is so easy to see the potential you just do not go there to begin with, IE pullers.

5) Don't wait until you need a tool or accessory to buy it, look for the deal and be realistic in what tools you might actually use and buy those tools or equipment as you find them at the right price. 

6) While on the subject of price do not buy tools used at a price greater than you could later sell that tool/machine for.

7) One last recent addition to my tool buying rules; pay attention to old USA made names leaving the country for offshore production. A prime example is Vise-Grip pliers. A few years ago Irwin Company bought the brand and moved them from DeWitt Nebraska to China or somewhere like that. When I saw that was going to happen I bought a decent selection of the USA made stuff for my son while it could still be had. My boy is nine, by the time he is of age to need those tools I wanted him to have some decent ones. This is the one circumstance that will cause me to break my buy it used philosophy. The new USA option is leaving likely never to return in my life so I will jump on stuff like that as I can afford to and as situations dictate. 


I think I might have highjacked this thread, sorry bout that. I will watch that!


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## Robert62

I have most of the "Must Haves" but the pin gauges, do you use them very often? For the microscope, I have both the manual and a USB microscope. The USB microscope has software that can be used to measure different shapes based on a calibration.


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## porter_jamie

6" rule. if you dont have one of those in your top pocket you don't look the part!

my must have is a 150mm/6" mitutoyo digi caliper. I do not make the mistake of lending if to anyone, since somebody ruined my last set using them to scribe a line, ffs.

Being born in 1970 in the uk, we were not taught imperial/english at school, so i do struggle a bit with fractions. I envy my father who can convert effortlessly in his head between metric and imperial. I have to measure stuff in metric and then consult my trusty wall chart to see what the nearest imperial size is. How am i supposed to know what the next size up from 29/64 is!!!

as for using an imperial micrometer, they frighten me! and i do not own any imperial clocks/indicators so i cannot get confused there.

true story:
i have worked at an automotive oem, and i visited the german supplier of clutch hydraulic master cylinders and slave cylinders. there are basically two sizes of mc, 19.05mm, and 15.875mm

i immediately knew what these sizes were, so i asked the german supplier why we chose 19.05 and not 19mm, and 15.875 and not 16mm. He gave me this cock and bull story about how the diameter of the mc and the slave have been carefully chosen to get the correct hydraulic ratio blah blah blah.

He had no idea at all it was 3/4" and 5/8". completely stunned.

i like to think that it winds up the French that they invented the metric system, and michelin being one of the worlds biggest tyre manufacturers still have to make tyres in inch diameter .


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## Rbeckett

And lest we forget the 25.4 wheel cylinders that abound on just about every rear wheel drive car on the planet.  That is just too funny about how he missed such an obvious thing.  I guess once your firmly entrenched in metric you forget the imperial system is around too.  I would have been unable to walk away without schooling him at least a little or leaving him with some food for thought.  But I have been refered to unkindly on more than one occcasion too.  Great story.
Bob


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## rdhem2

One tool I have not seen mentioned yet but has saved my bacon more than once is a a Starrett tool that resembles a 6" scale.  However it is tapered from one end to the other.  Reads metric on one side, inch on the other.  Sorry I don't know the part number.

USE?  You stick it in gaps or narrow openings until it stops and read the opening size by where it stops on the taper.  Sure beats dragging out feeler guages and messing with them.  If you need a REALLY accurate dimension, use the feelers, otherwise this gizmo is a dream.  Came in a batch of used tools from e-bay and I probably owned it for 5-6 years before I took the time to figure out its purpose.

Talley-Ho, time for making *SWARF*.


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## ariscats

How about a thread measuring micrometer?I just got one,and i don't know if is better than 
the wires.Surely is more convenient.I will try to understand fully its operation.
Help would be useful.Thanks in advance
Ariscats


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## swatson144

Cheap magnetic back dial indicator with at least 25.4 mm of travel (I derived that by carefully measuring the distance traveled with 10 turns of the hand wheel).

Steve


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## eightball

That funny looking starrett with the taper and lines on it is. Just that . It's a Taper Gauge and its used to align machinery

- - - Updated - - -

That funny looking starrett with the taper and lines on it is. Just that . It's a Taper Gauge and its used to align machinery


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## Farmer Dodds

It looks like I have a long way to go with required tools.  Purchasing as I can afford or need them, it will take quite a while.


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## Tony Wells

Nobody just up and buys them all at once. It takes a lifetime to get even close to everything you will want. Take your time and get the basics, then as you see the need, add to the tool chest.


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## Richard King

One thing I always make sure a new machinist trainee has is a set of feeler gages and a 1" Mic.   So he can practice measuring using his mic.   My Dad taught me to never look at the Mic when tightening it.  I also never use the ratchet as I like to feel it.  But if you are new to measuring with a mic, check a .005" feeler gage and mic it and don't look at the dial and when you think you have it right, look at it and keep checking the feel until it is the same as the gage.  Be sure to the anvils of the mic are clean and the feeler is clean before making the test.   Another thing I show them is when you want to run it out fast, is to roll it out or in by running it against your arm.


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## boxersatheart

I like to clean my anvils with a clean piece of white paper.  Close the anvils to just barely put a drag on the paper.  If you soak the paper first with a little alchohol the crud that comes off may surprise you!  I am lucky to have been in measurement science for better than 40 years and have worked with some great folks that allowed me to learn a trade that has served me well.



Richard King said:


> One thing I always make sure a new machinist trainee has is a set of feeler gages and a 1" Mic.   So he can practice measuring using his mic.   My Dad taught me to never look at the Mic when tightening it.  I also never use the ratchet as I like to feel it.  But if you are new to measuring with a mic, check a .005" feeler gage and mic it and don't look at the dial and when you think you have it right, look at it and keep checking the feel until it is the same as the gage.  Be sure to the anvils of the mic are clean and the feeler is clean before making the test.   Another thing I show them is when you want to run it out fast, is to roll it out or in by running it against your arm.


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## JohnG

A couple of people mention the humble set of feeler gauges in passing without adding them to the list.  They can be augmented for larger measurements in a pinch by the shank ends of drill bits if those haven't been burred.


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## ariscats

A micrometer stand. It helps greatly if you don't have three hands.

Ariscats


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## The Liberal Arts Garage

JohnG said:


> A couple of people mention the humble set of feeler gauges in passing without adding them to the list.  They can be augmented for larger measurements in a pinch by the shank ends of drill bits if those haven't been burred.


Just an off- topic thought- I worked at a shop where the serious ( microwave) machining was done in a segregated area ; they wouldn't accept even brackets,
Etc. if they weren't nominated in thou's. Note: they checked each drill they used
at the lips.........BLJHB.


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## The Liberal Arts Garage

ariscats said:


> A micrometer stand. It helps greatly if you don't have three hands.
> 
> Ariscats


Also,learn how to hold a mic........BLJHB


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## The Liberal Arts Garage

rdhem2 said:


> One tool I have not seen mentioned yet but has saved my bacon more than once is a a Starrett tool that resembles a 6" scale.  However it is tapered from one end to the other.  Reads metric on one side, inch on the other.  Sorry I don't know the part number.
> 
> USE?  You stick it in gaps or narrow openings until it stops and read the opening size by where it stops on the taper.  Sure beats dragging out feeler guages and messing with them.  If you need a REALLY accurate dimension, use the feelers, otherwise this gizmo is a dream.  Came in a batch of used tools from e-bay and I probably owned it for 5-6 years before I took the time to figure out its purpose.
> 
> Talley-Ho, time for making *SWARF*.


Also note: teeny-tiny hook rules........BLJHB.


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## John Hasler

Management said:


> ?    6" digital caliper, possibly a 12" as well
> ?    Dial test indicator
> ?    0-1" micrometer (0.0001" or better)
> ?    0-6" or 0-12" micrometer set
> ?    micrometer head
> ?    depth gage
> ?    gage blocks (aka Joe Blocks)
> ?    Dial indicator
> ?    Dial test indicator holder for mill spinlde, possibly indicol style
> ?    Magnetic base dial indicator holder
> ?    Comparator stand for dial indicator, you can get ones with an 8x10 granite surface plate
> ?    Thread measuring wires
> ?    telescoping bore gages
> ?    screw pitch gages
> ?    angle blocks
> ?    radius gage set
> ?    angle gage set
> ?    center line gage accessory for caliper
> ?    micrometer anvil set
> ?    surface finish comparator
> ?    Magnifying loupe with reticles
> ?    230X USB microscope
> ?    large surface plate, height gage, precision squares, etc. is nice to have but large, heavy, and expensive.
> ?    scale with right angle, center finder, and protractor
> ?    Universal bevel protractor
> ?    Sine bar
> ?    master precision level
> ?    pin gage sets, particularly the &lt;0.250" size
> ?    plain inside/outside calipers and dividers
> ?    kill-a-watt meter so you can see how many HP you are running
> 
> Please feel free to add to this list!
> 
> Best,
> 
> Nelson


I don't have ten percent of those.


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## John Hasler

The Liberal Arts Garage said:


> Also note: teeny-tiny hook rules........BLJHB.


Explain, please.


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## darkzero

The Liberal Arts Garage said:


> Also note: teeny-tiny hook rules........BLJHB.





John Hasler said:


> Explain, please.



I don't know what teeny-tiny hook rules are either, my smallest hook rule is a 6". I do have some some small scales though. Got this brand new set for $20 but I've never needed to use it yet.


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## Andre

I maybe have half the tools on the list, but you can improvise with a lot of them. For instance if you don't have a comparator stand you can use a mag base on a surface plate.


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## Doubleeboy

I am not sure Starrett still makes the thin body 6" hook rule.  I looked for one but have not found one.  Its only about 1/4" wide, great tool.  I want a second one as mine has seen a hard life.


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## bpratl

I think that a coaxial dial indicator is very useful in setting up a lathes tail stock, mill rotary table and boring on a mill.  
I have also used it to set up an odd part, in a lathe with a 4 jaw chuck, for boring.


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## The Liberal Arts Garage

Doubleeboy said:


> I am not sure Starrett still makes the thin body 6" hook rule.  I looked for one but have not found one.  Its only about 1/4" wide, great tool.  I want a second one as mine has seen a hard life.


I found mine at the bottom of a$7 bucket of dull and rustles - bought the bucket
just to get the rules. .......BLJHB.


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## Ulma Doctor

apparently i need stuff, i didn't know i needed...


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## ariscats

Ulma Doctor said:


> apparently i need stuff, i didn't know i needed...


It always  is the same old story
Ariscats


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## n3480h

Either I am sorely under-equipped, or I have been creative with what I have.  However, with small machines I can get by with less, and my hobby machining rarely requires better than +/-.002" tolerances. Here's what I have and use:
Starret 0-4 mics
12" Digital height stand
Dial indicator (with an "in-house" machined mount so it can be used with the height stand)
Coaxial dial indicator
2 Noga Mag bases for the indicators
Feeler gages
12 x 18 granite surface plate
Mitutoyo digital 8" caliper
6" and 24" steel scales
A set of 1-2-3 blocks
Starret telescoping bore gage set

It would be nice to have a set of good gage blocks and pins, but the above list has met my needs so far.

Tom


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## Franko

The most used layout tool I have is a pair of small Starrett double squares, one has a 4" blade and one a 6" blade. They are good for dozens of uses. Laying out cuts and placing holes. Center finding and marking, Transferring dimensions, inside square marking on the inside of angle stock, and indexing parts in an mill vise is just a few examples.


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## Bill C.

Doubleeboy said:


> I am not sure Starrett still makes the thin body 6" hook rule.  I looked for one but have not found one.  Its only about 1/4" wide, great tool.  I want a second one as mine has seen a hard life.




Starrett H604R-6, a 6" spring tempered scale was listed in their 2012 catalog.  I have one like it a very useful scale.


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## Franko

Amazon sells them.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...ett hook rule&sprefix=starrett+hook,tools,223


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## chips&more

Tony Wells said:


> Nobody just up and buys them all at once. It takes a lifetime to get even close to everything you will want. Take your time and get the basics, then as you see the need, add to the tool chest.



I did just that! Now I have 3,100 sq/ft of crap to the 10’ ceiling! Take some advice from me guys. You can have every tool in the world, but just one life time to use them. And I say it’s not possible to do it. You will find your favorite tools will be a small pile in the shop. When you need that special tool, you will spend hours/days trying to find it in all that crap. I have one lifetime with ten lifetimes of projects. It ain’t gonna happen. Instead of me buying more crap, maybe I’ll just have a garage sale, Dave


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## Franko

I picked up most of my rules and builder squares in pawn shops, back when things in pawn shops sold for used prices.

I love tools, but I've not allowed myself to buy one just because I thought I might need it someday. There are very few tools (and I have thousands of them) in my shop that haven't earned their keep.


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## The Liberal Arts Garage

Management said:


> ?    6" digital caliper, possibly a 12" as well
> ?    Dial test indicator
> ?    0-1" micrometer (0.0001" or better)
> ?    0-6" or 0-12" micrometer set
> ?    micrometer head
> ?    depth gage
> ?    gage blocks (aka Joe Blocks)
> ?    Dial indicator
> ?    Dial test indicator holder for mill spinlde, possibly indicol style
> ?    Magnetic base dial indicator holder
> ?    Comparator stand for dial indicator, you can get ones with an 8x10 granite surface plate
> ?    Thread measuring wires
> ?    telescoping bore gages
> ?    screw pitch gages
> ?    angle blocks
> ?    radius gage set
> ?    angle gage set
> ?    center line gage accessory for caliper
> ?    micrometer anvil set
> ?    surface finish comparator
> ?    Magnifying loupe with reticles
> ?    230X USB microscope
> ?    large surface plate, height gage, precision squares, etc. is nice to have but large, heavy, and expensive.
> ?    scale with right angle, center finder, and protractor
> ?    Universal bevel protractor
> ?    Sine bar
> ?    master precision level
> ?    pin gage sets, particularly the &lt;0.250" size
> ?    plain inside/outside calipers and dividers
> ?    kill-a-watt meter so you can see how many HP you are running
> 
> Please feel free to add to this list!
> 
> Best,
> 
> Nelson


Remember stiff joint calipers ? I have a friend ,decades of pouring and 
machining motor bearings, etc. Used plain calipers to repeat tenths ,
Because it was simpler and faster. It's all in the Touch !........BLJHB.


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## Bill Gruby

It is far better to have and not need than it is to need and not have.

 "Billy G"


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## NCjeeper

chips&more said:


> I did just that! Now I have 3,100 sq/ft of crap to the 10’ ceiling!  Instead of me buying more crap, maybe I’ll just have a garage sale, Dave


You have a sale date yet? I need more crap.


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## PaPa_Jack

Being new to this "Hobby", I thought that the title of this thread could give me some perspective on where do I go from here. I have very few "precision" instruments. Instead of guiding me, I now feel totally intimidated. I know that was not the purpose, but c'mon guys. Give me, a real novice, some guidance about what basic measuring I need to get started. I realize that most of you have acquired all these instruments over many years but you had to start somewhere. 

What basic measuring devices should I attempt to purchase to get me started?


Jack


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## John Hasler

PaPa_Jack said:


> Being new to this "Hobby", I thought that the title of this thread could give me some perspective on where do I go from here. I have very few "precision" instruments. Instead of guiding me, I now feel totally intimidated. I know that was not the purpose, but c'mon guys. Give me, a real novice, some guidance about what basic measuring I need to get started. I realize that most of you have acquired all these instruments over many years but you had to start somewhere.
> 
> What basic measuring devices should I attempt to purchase to get me started?
> 
> 
> Jack


Get a 6" and a 12" steel scale, a 6" digital caliper, a DTI with a simple magnetic mount,, a 4" or 6" machinist's square, and some feeler gauges.


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## NCjeeper

Grab a digital 1" mic also.


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## John Hasler

NCjeeper said:


> Grab a digital 1" mic also.


Nice to have but you can live without it.


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## PaPa_Jack

I was talking to a good friend this morning. He asked how my lathe was coming along. We talked for a while. Aboout 20 minutes ago he stopped by and dropped off a Chicago brand 3 micrometer set and about 20 Hardinge 3c collets. They were mixed in with a lot of tools he got last year when his grandfather passed away. So, at least I can measure accurately to 3 inches now. It's a start.


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## John Hasler

PaPa_Jack said:


> So, at least I can measure accurately to 3 inches now. It's a start.


Puts you 2 inches ahead of me.


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## Charles Spencer

PaPa_Jack said:


> What basic measuring devices should I attempt to purchase to get me started?



It's not a tool but I find Dykem to be almost indispensable for marking my work.  A 4 oz. bottle has lasted me for years.  $5.97 if you have Amazon Prime:

https://www.amazon.com/Dykem-80300-Steel-Layout-Brush-/dp/B0018ACR6G

I started with a 1" micrometer, 6" calipers, pocket rule, inside and outside spring calipers, a protractor, a center punch, and a combination square with 6" and 12" rules.

I cut a 59° drill grinding gage out of sheet metal.  I also made a lathe tool bit grinding gage.  You can find the pattern for one here:

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/i-need-some-cutting-tools.49571/#post-417567

I made a scribe by grinding an old round file.

I got my hands on a 6" round of steel about 1 1/4" thick.  I faced it off and then rotated it on sandpaper to get a reasonably flat surface to work on.  I still use this a lot even though I have a surface plate now.  It's very handy because it sits within arms reach on the bench.

The next things that I bought were a 2" micrometer and a dial indicator with a magnetic holder.

Here's a printable pdf of a Decimal Tap & Drill chart.  Very handy for converting measurements as well.

http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/I_DrillSizeDecimalEquivalent&TapDrillChart.pdf


You should be able to do a lot with just these items.


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## owl

I haven't yet found a need for a micrometer of over 2", my dial caliper seems to be accurate enough for me for the larger sizes.  In that vein, I don't want digital instruments that use batteries, as they seem to go dead and leak before I need that particular tool, but the mechanical digital or dial ones just keep working. I do use a 12' tape a fair amount, especially useful when measuring spaces for rearrangement.  Like drill bits, you can never have enough measuring devices that there isn't something out there that would work better for a particular situation.  Sometimes work-arounds are half the fun.


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## EmilioG

Does anyone use dividers and calipers anymore? I have a collection of around 12 in various sizes and type, mostly Starrett vintage.
Some tools that see a lot of use:  8" Mit digital calipers, Etalon dial calipers, 1-2-3 blocks, mics, surface plate, squares, protractors, and rules of all sizes.
Those Starrett hook rules are great. Just bought the thin one for $10 in mint shape.  My Mitutoyo Japan made mic stand is also indispensable.
Starrett thread gages are also good to have.  I couldn't figure out a fastener the other day, turns out it was a rare M3.5


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## swatson144

The calipers are very useful for me. Say something needs to be 13" +.000 -.006 2 calipers can be pretty quick and inexpensive (at machine) GnG. Not every shoulder on shafting needs to be press fit for bearings. When you have tolerances for bushings you don't really need the big Mics, or balancing the 36" verniers on your shoulder. I even use it a lot on production runs of small pieces. That No Go drags and the Go don't... It'll pass QA.

Steve


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## Bob Korves

Not all work is measured to tenths, and much time and effort is wasted by doing so for no reason.  It makes a lot more sense to use spring calipers over a rough cut part while it is turning to check it than to use a tenths micrometer after stopping the lathe.  Save the tenths mic and the extra effort for the finish cut.


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## dlane

Are they all in the pass around box .


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## StevSmar

I use a combination square quite often for woodworking, can’t imagine using one for metalworking. Same with the Center finding and protractor fittings.

I use my sliding double square all the time, it’s definitely the square I reach for first!
(Wish I could find an imperial/metric one in Canada, (I can buy a separate imperial/metric blade though..))
(I’ve been replacing all my steel rules with dual imperial/metric, if the fraction is getting too hard for my brain I can flip it over and take the measurement in mm’s)


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## Downwindtracker2

I 'm a retired millwright. I found machinery easier to work on if you use the measuring system it was designed in. 3.xxxx, oh that's just a 80.00 mm.  That will give you the bearing number and the seal number. So I use both in my shop. Either most verniers or an electronic caliper is very handy. I have one vernier that is only imperial, I use it for scribing. It was real cheap, it even came in box !

My lathe has a 12" swing so ,at least to me anyway, I should to be able to measure accurately to 12" or 300mm. Outside mics are the tool . But before I found used,clearance,NOS, mics, I bought a 12"/300mm vernier.
I have a mill/drill ,so it's  depth mics and small hole guages.


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## ChazzC

Downwindtracker2 said:


> I 'm a retired millwright. I found machinery easier to work on if you use the measuring system it was designed in. 3.xxxx, oh that's just a 80.00 mm.  That will give you the bearing number and the seal number. So I use both in my shop. Either most verniers or an electronic caliper is very handy. I have one vernier that is only imperial, I use it for scribing. It was real cheap, it even came in box !
> 
> My lathe has a 12" swing so ,at least to me anyway, I should to be able to measure accurately to 12" or 300mm. Outside mics are the tool . But before I found used,clearance,NOS, mics, I bought a 12"/300mm vernier.
> I have a mill/drill ,so it's  depth mics and small hole guages.


I’m with you: while I use available raw stock (usually in inches), I try to use metric dimensions for hole locations, hardware &c on mods & accessories for metric machines. The fact that it annoys some folks is just an added bonus.


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