# Determining the Chuck Taper: Jia Piin JP-30 "Drilling & Milling Machine"



## mattgray_calif (Sep 1, 2021)

Hello everyone, Matt in California, just getting started and looking for some additional guidance.

Picked up my first drilling and milling machine.  But getting started has been quite the challenge.

Someone once told me "If it isn't on Google, then it probably doesn't exist."  Well, this particular Jia Piin JP-30 isn't on Google, and it didn't come with a chuck.

Best as I can tell it seems to accept a MT2 spindle, with a Gage Line Diameter of 0.7370".  While I did not scope it to see if it would accept tang, the total depth appears to be 3.550".  I understand a true MT2 should have Gage Line of 0.700" and 2-15/16" depth. 

Does anyone have addition information on this machine, or can point me in the right direction?  I reached out to Jia Pin (hoping they are the same as Jia Piin), but so far no answer.

Thank you,
Matt


----------



## Ulma Doctor (Sep 1, 2021)

a lot of the smaller machines use MT2 taper, most use a tang to prevent spinning


----------



## Firstram (Sep 1, 2021)

Being a mill/drill shouldn't it have a draw bar?


----------



## Ulma Doctor (Sep 1, 2021)

sorry didn't see mill/drill- 
a drawbar would be best for milling


----------



## Nutfarmer (Sep 1, 2021)

It's easy to check if it's a number 2 Morse taper. Take a known number 2 arbor and apply a thin coat of blue on the shank and see what the contact pattern looks like.


----------



## pontiac428 (Sep 2, 2021)

Hmm, green machine, 3 pulleys/4 sheaves, made in Taiwan, part number JP-30... could it be a Rong Fu RF-30 in disguise?


----------



## mattgray_calif (Sep 2, 2021)

pontiac428 said:


> Hmm, green machine, 3 pulleys/4 sheaves, made in Taiwan, part number JP-30... could it be a Rong Fu RF-30 in disguise?


I was wondering about that, but seems to have some distinct differences.  Here are some pics, maybe you're right?


----------



## mattgray_calif (Sep 2, 2021)

Firstram said:


> Being a mill/drill shouldn't it have a draw bar?


It has a drawbar, and I'm embarrassed to say I didn't do a close enough inspection.  I removed a R8 3/4 collet a few moments ago.  So at the risk of asking a dumb question, would I remove that collet to install the R8 chuck assembly, and just use that collet when installing bits?


----------



## FOMOGO (Sep 2, 2021)

Yes, You should get yourself a full set of R-8 collets for various size end mills if it's in the budget, and welcome to the forum. Mike


----------



## pontiac428 (Sep 2, 2021)

Matt, your mill has all of the signs of being a Rong-fu.  The model 30 was the older type, and had the thinner column.  From what I've seen, this was the model to have the most variations, even though they are subtle. The 3-bolt clamp is different, but the rest of the head casting has the rong-fu curves and component placement.  Knowing what your base machine is will help you find parts and get help on this site.  You should be able to do lots of good work with this machine, once you've cleaned it up and dialed in your adjustments.

It is very good news for you that you have an R-8 spindle.  It is the most common, so there are lots of tools available for reasonable prices.  It shouldn't take much to get started with the basics, and there is a lot of used tooling that will work with this mill.  So congratulations and welcome!


----------



## Norseman C.B. (Sep 2, 2021)

Pontiac John hit it on the head  !!
Oh yeah...............


----------



## markba633csi (Sep 3, 2021)

You really only need a couple collets to get started- 3/8" and 1/2"
will hold a wide assortment of endmills
If the motor is 1 HP or more wiring/running the machine on 240 volts would be best
-Mark
Enjoy!


----------



## mattgray_calif (Sep 3, 2021)

Thank you everyone.  This has been very helpful.  I look forward to learning much more from you all.


----------

