# Restoring Jet 1024PY



## wframe13

I am in the process of being given a Jet 1024PY metal lathe.  It has been sitting outside for an unknown period.  The ways and the carriage components all have what looks like surface rust.  What are the recommended methods for removing the rust?  Is electrolysis an acceptable approach for the components like the carriage parts, the tail stock, and the 3 and 4 jaw chucks?  What about the ways?  How do I get those cleaned up without damaging them?

In addition to the rust, the left side of the skirt for the quick change gears has broken off and is missing along with the left quick change selector handle.  Any ideas on how to replace either of these?

Any information will be appreciated!

Thanks in advance.


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## Bob Korves

You can use electrolysis for removing rust on any part of a lathe.  It will likely remove the paint as well.


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## Mr Mike

Hello...
Keith Rucker has a good video on electrolytic rust removal using washing soda " none toxic " that will get you started.

If your pockets are overflowing you could also us Evapo-Rust to get the rust off... Then use ultra fine Scotch Bright some oil and elbow grease to clean up the ways.

Neither will harm / Damage the iron when done properly.. Most important is researching each method well before you begin, there are other methods you can us, these 2 work well and are pretty well known in the machine tool circles..

Good luck with you project... And have fun.


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## Bamban

Try this guy for parts.

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/tls/d/lathe-manual-control-box-lead/6295501286.html


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## Ulma Doctor

man that guy is setting on a gold mine!


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## wframe13

Mr Mike said:


> Hello...
> Keith Rucker has a good video on electrolytic rust removal using washing soda " none toxic " that will get you started.
> ....
> Good luck with you project... And have fun.



Mr. Mike, Thanks for the reference to Keith Rucker.  I watched his Electrolysis video and then several of his videos on restoring the LeBlond lathe.  While my Jet 1024 is no LeBlond, it will be helpful to see how he goes about the process of disassembling, cleaning, painting, and reassembling the lathe.  Also his video on cleaning and servicing lathe chucks will be very helpful.  

I believe this will be a fun project!


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## Mr Mike

wframe13 said:


> Mr. Mike, Thanks for the reference to Keith Rucker.  I watched his Electrolysis video and then several of his videos on restoring the LeBlond lathe.  While my Jet 1024 is no LeBlond, it will be helpful to see how he goes about the process of disassembling, cleaning, painting, and reassembling the lathe.  Also his video on cleaning and servicing lathe chucks will be very helpful.
> 
> I believe this will be a fun project!



You will have a blast if you like fixing and fiddling. The science is fun too. I won't say its not alot of work, I'm very new to all this myself.

There is alot to learn.. Take your time. If you want to get an idea what to expect check out my posting I just got my first lathe - Logan 875 on the Logan lathe board... 

You will find an answer or two for some of your researching.


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## wframe13

*And so it begins...*

A week ago, I stopped by my neighbor (Clovis Vintage Machinery - https://www.facebook.com/Clovis-Vintage-Machinery-158689440981001/) to talk to him about the 10+ foot long South Bend lathe sitting in his driveway.  As we talked, I noticed that there was a bench top lathe sitting on the ground next to the driveway.  When I asked him about it, he said he got it free off Craigslist.  It turned out to be something he was not interested in working on, did I want it?  I have done woodworking all of my adult life and have always thought it would be fun to have a metal lathe, so of course I would like to have it, how much? Free and he would even deliver it in his service truck with the 3 ton crane.  He said he could deliver it the next weekend, and we were all set.  

I knew it was going to be a project to get it running, but I think I am up to the challenge.  The lathe is a Jet model 1024PY.  Apparently it had fallen at some point and the left hand Quick Change gear selector  and the crossfeed handle had taken the brunt of the fall.  More on that later.

So last Saturday he brought it to my home.  I had a bench that was built for an old Sears Craftsman jointer (another restoration project in the waiting) that was just the right size for the lathe.  Because I am limited on space, I wanted to be able to move it around as I work on restoring it, so I put some casters under the bench.  He lifted it out of his truck and we took the chip pan off while it was still on the crane.  I used the chip pan to mark the location for holes for mount the lathe.  We then set it down and bolted it to the table.  He drove off and left me with my new toy/project.  As I rolled it into the garage, one of the caster caught in the cement joint between the driveway and garage and it almost tipped over.  Fortunately, I was able to divert that disaster.  So now the lathe is sitting in the garage and I have started the process of cleaning it up and seeing if I can actually "restore" it to full operation.

My inexperienced examination revealed the following:
Good point:

The headstock and all the gears turn freely as do the drive belts
The motor runs and drives the headstock
The carriage moves up and down the ways
The compound moves in and out and pivots as it should
Included are a 3 jaw scroll chuck, a 4 jaw independent chuck, a faceplate, and a lantern style tool holder 

Also included is the tail stock
Major Problems:

The main selector on the Quick Change gar box is broken (all parts are present)
The skirt for the Quick Change that has the holes for positions the selectors is broken (again the broken piece is present)
The bracket that attaches the crossfeed screw to the saddle is broken in several places:
The ears that hold the bolts that attach the screw to the saddle are broken off, part of one is present but the other is completely gone
The back of the bracket that hold one of the bearing is cracked off of the bracket

Minor Problems

Lots of surface rust

The carriage handwheel is broken (it will work to move the carriage, but will need to be replaced before using the lathe)
The crank handle for the crossfeed is bent
The crossfeed screw is bent but I think I can get it straight enough to work.  Right now the nut binds in the channel at the far end of its travel.

The 3-button Forward-Off-Reverse switch has been replaced with a simple on-off light switch.  This works for forward operation but does not allow reversing the motor.
The tail stock is missing the spindle or any center
Obviously the Major Problems above are going to require a lot of looking for replacement parts and/or figuring out how to repair or replace the broken parts.  I think I could figure out a way to lock the Quick Change in place in one of the gears, but the crossfeed is going to be a real problem.  I have neither the knowledge or skills to manufacture a replacement for the bracket.  But I do have access to a "maker space" that has the equipment and probably some people that have the skills to help me manufacture something to make it work.

Progress:

Removed the 3 jaw chuck that was mounted on the lathe and started disassembling in preparation for a through cleaning,
Removed the compound and the crossfeed saddle for cleaning 

Removed the crossfeed screw and mounting bracket for repair/replacement

If any one has or know of anyone that has parts for a Jet Model 1024PY, I would be appreciate hearing from you.  Also looking for information on paint.  There are a number of heavy scratches in the paint and I would like to repaint it.  I want keep it the original green color, or something close to it.

I think this is going to be an interesting project, which when finished will result in a toy to play with and make some chips.


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## Dave Paine

Try contacting Yuriy who has a page on his 1024 lathe on his site.

http://www.yuriystoys.com/2013/01/my-new-30-year-old-jet-1024-lathe.html


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## Bob Korves

If you can find a Jet 1024PY to get parts from, that should work.  There are a lot of Asian lathes that all look near exactly the same from 5 feet away, but you cannot bet that any of the parts will fit YOUR lathe.  The makers stick to a standard design, but often size to fit.  Jet is known for being much better than most Asian manufacturers in that respect.  Any of those parts can be made or repaired by someone skilled at doing so.  Unfortunately, you gain experience by doing things you did not know how to do.  If you are someone willing to spend the time, do the legwork, and tackle the issues one step at a time, WITHOUT GIVING UP or moving it to the ignore category, you will eventually have success.  Before you start, have a heart to heart with yourself and a good look at yourself in the mirror, and decide whether you meet the requirements for the job.

Remember that you can probably buy a working lathe similar to that one for about $1K or so without tooling.


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## fernballan

I f you have the time


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## DAT510

I have a Jet 1024P.  Grizzly used to sell their version of it's big brother the G9249, which was a 12 x 37.  Though they no longer sell the lathe, they do still sell most of the parts for it.  So, they may be a source.  My lathe was missing some of the threading change gears.  I took a chance and ordered the Gears for the G9249 and they were a perfect fit.  I also ordered a Gib adjustment screw for the cross-slide that also was a exact replacement.

https://www.grizzly.com/products/g9249/parts

If you haven't found it yet, in the downloads section of the forum, there are a bunch of manuals for the Various Brands that the 1024 lathe was produced under.  I've taken sections from many of them to make a "super" manual, as each manual may have a section with additional information, not covered by the other manuals.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/categories/jet.636/


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## kvt

I have a Jet 10x24 PY,   in running condition,  The only thing I have found is somehow some of the small belt way on the spindle pulley got broken off.   But everything else is fine.   So I can take pics if needed.   I also have one of the old Off brand 10X24 that also matches some of the earlier Jet 10X24s.   It is one that I am working on,   Still need to get/make a new Backplate made for it.   so I can get the headstock lined up properly as I had it off and replaced all the bearings.


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## Dave Paine

I did not know the Jet 1024PY was similar to the Grizzly G9249.   I have a Grizzly G9249 if you need any measurements from my lathe.
This lathe was manufactured in late 1999.  I may be the third owner.


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## Ulma Doctor

here is a manual for the jet 1024


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## eeler1

WHAT!!!  Now we are 'restoring' Jet lathes?  Sorry but my idea of restoring ends in the 1960's.

Seriously, those Jets are ok, worth some effort to clean and fix and what not.  Keep us posted on your progress,


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## kvt

Ulma doctor ,   Have you ever noticed that all copies of the Document are missing pages 29 and 30,  I think that is the two.  For the headstock.   Have found it several places and they all seem to be the same one.  
I have the 10x24PY,   I wish it had the control rod,  think that is what the 3rd rod is. 

The Grizzly on my other 10X24 some parts fit, some do not.   Have not had to replace much on this one yet.


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## Bamban

eeler1 said:


> Seriously, those Jets are ok,,



Only OK? I think they are great....cheers.

My baby Jet is my favorite, deessed up like a Christmas tree, green and red. It cuts dang near zero taper with super nice finish. Chambered over a couple of dozens of AR barrels through it.


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## Ulma Doctor

kvt said:


> Ulma doctor ,   Have you ever noticed that all copies of the Document are missing pages 29 and 30,  I think that is the two.  For the headstock.   Have found it several places and they all seem to be the same one.
> I have the 10x24PY,   I wish it had the control rod,  think that is what the 3rd rod is.
> 
> The Grizzly on my other 10X24 some parts fit, some do not.   Have not had to replace much on this one yet.


Wow Kvt,
 until you mentioned it, i didn't notice the missing pages-
i'll attach the LAM lathe manual too, the info is more complete in the headstock drawing


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## markba633csi

Were those Jet 1024s made in Taiwan or China? (or Japan?)
Mark


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## wframe13

DAT510 said:


> I have a Jet 1024P.  Grizzly used to sell their version of it's big brother the G9249, which was a 12 x 37.  Though they no longer sell the lathe, they do still sell most of the parts for it.  So, they may be a source.  My lathe was missing some of the threading change gears.  I took a chance and ordered the Gears for the G9249 and they were a perfect fit.  I also ordered a Gib adjustment screw for the cross-slide that also was a exact replacement.
> 
> https://www.grizzly.com/products/g9249/parts



DAT510 - Thanks for the link to Grizzly.  I may give them a try for the Quick Change gear selector. Their drawing doesn't look quite the same my broken piece, but looks like it functions the same.  I will have to check on their return policy if it simply doesn't fit.  The other broken piece is the bracket for mounting the crossfeed screw.  The Grizzly part does NOT look like it would be a direct replacement, but it does give me an idea of how to build a replacement part.  Great resource!  Thanks.


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## wframe13

Ulma Doctor said:


> here is a manual for the jet 1024


A quick call to Jet last week resulted in an email from them with a clean PDF of the Owners Manual.  Looks like it is the same one as your post.  Thanks


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## wframe13

Dave Paine said:


> I did not know the Jet 1024PY was similar to the Grizzly G9249.   I have a Grizzly G9249 if you need any measurements from my lathe.
> This lathe was manufactured in late 1999.  I may be the third owner.
> 
> View attachment 243222


Dave, Thanks for the post.  I may be following up with you to see if you can take some measurements on the quick change select arm.  That is the one broken part that I may have to buy if I can find one that will fit.  I won't know what kind of measurements I will need until I can get the part that is still in the machine out so I can measure it.  I'll be in touch.


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## Ulma Doctor

markba633csi said:


> Were those Jet 1024s made in Taiwan or China? (or Japan?)
> Mark


Hi Mark,
The jet 1024 lathes were manufactured in Taiwan


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## kvt

Yea,  I go the same one from Jet when I contacted them,   They had no explanation on the missing pages ether,   theirs is a little cleaner copy if I remember correctly,   Have to find my backups in order to check.  
Ok,   The selectors both are the same on both of my 10X24s, from what I can tell,  Only had one set completely apart.  
On the part for cross feed screw are you talking the part that has two screws that hold it to the carriage, and it houses the two thrust bearings for the cross feed screw.   It has the mark for your hand wheel on it.   If you have the old one,  and a mill you may be able to make that.   Both of mine are different.   The main thing is that it does not stick up above the Carriage  and that it holds the gear for powered cross feed in the correct place (not real critical)   The alignment for the bores for the thrust bearings are more important.   
also you could have Dave take a picture of his Grizzly and compare it to what you have or one of us that have the 10X24s have.  before you go and order it.


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## DAT510

Are the missing pages covered in the 1024p (s) 1236p (s) manual?

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/jet-1024p-s-1236p-s-pdf.2746/


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## kvt

Nope,  It is more like my other 10x24,   The PY has the counter shaft inside the back of the headstock.   The headstock is longer in the back, and sticks out over the motor where the belt comes up into it.


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## wframe13

I have been working a little each evening and probably too much on weekends (according to my wife) on my Jet 1024PY.  I have gotten all the problem pieces off the machine and am beginning to work on resolutions.  As identified before the big problems are with the broken quick change selector and cover and the broken and bent pieces in the cross feed screw.  I am taking the quick change parts to a cousin that is a professional welder to see if they can be restored to working order.  I have asked Grizzly for specification on their version of the crossfeed screw to see if it can be used as a replacement for mine that is badly bent.

One issue I am scratching my head over is the oil in the main bearing in the headstock.  There are 2 sight glasses on the front of the headstock housing that show the oil level in the bearing.  Short of completely disassembling the main shaft in the headstock, any ideas on how to drain and flush these oil cavities?  I haven't found any drain plugs.  One sight glasses shows some fluid in it.  Since the machine sat outside for some time, I know I need to flush out any old fluid and put in fresh oil.  And of course, the two pages missing from the manual I have are the parts diagram of the top of the headstock that might have given me some idea on how to drain the oil.  Any idea for draining/flushing these oil cavities would be appreciated.

Does anyone know how those sight glasses are held in place?  Are they a press fit that could be removed to allow flushing out through them and then replaced?  Ideas?

Thanks!


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## Bamban

Sight glasses are just press fitted in. Right way or not, when I drained mine I just stuck the wet vac hose on the opening. Flushed them. Re-filled and flushed my twice. 

To minimize the mess, I taped a piece of paper below the openings to catch the oil into a small container.


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## wframe13

Bamban said:


> Sight glasses are just press fitted in. Right way or not, when I drained mine I just stuck the wet vac hose on the opening. Flushed them. Re-filled and flushed my twice.
> 
> To minimize the mess, I taped a piece of paper below the openings to catch the oil into a small container.



Thanks for the response.  Not sure I understand: Did you stick the vac hose in the sight glass hole or the fill hole on top of housing? If through sight glass hole, how did you remove the sight glass?  Mine are flush mounted, I can't see how to get a hold of them to pull them out.

BTW: I like the tribute to your father. My dad was a P-39 pilot in the South Pacific for 22 months.  And thank you for your service!


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## Bamban

Just pry the sight glass off, I used a hard plastic wedge to pry them off. Sucked the oil through the sight glass hole.


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## wframe13

Bamban said:


> Just pry the sight glass off, I used a hard plastic wedge to pry them off. Sucked the oil through the sight glass hole.



Thanks!  This gave me an idea.  I made an oil separator for the end of my vacuum hose: using a plastic peanut butter jar, drilled 2 holes in top, small clear plastic hose from vacuum into top of a jar, another piece of hose through the top that reaches to the bottom of jar, use the piece that goes to the bottom as the pick-up hose.  Oil collects in the bottom of the jar and doesn't get to the vacuum.  Works like a sawdust separator for wood shop.  Worked like a charm.


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## wframe13

Things are moving along.  Broken quick change cover and selector are with my cousin, a professional welder.  Both of the chucks have been thoughly cleaned, lubed and reassembled.  The carriage has been completely disassembled and cleaned including removing and disassembling the bent crossfeed screw.  Meeting with a machinist to discuss how to fabricate a new bracket for holding the bearings and the crossfeed screw and what to do to replace the bent crossfeed screw.  This is going to be a slow process, but it is definitely interesting and educational!


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## Dave Paine

You may not need this, but some pictures for future reference by others.

A spare sight glass looking down, outer face at the top.  A small collar at the top.  Held in place by the O ring.




The sight glass next to the spindle in  my G9249 lathe.  A sharp edge behind the sight glass such as a pocket knife should pry this out.

This sight glass is slowly leaking oil out the front.  Slow enough to not show in the picture, but if I wipe my finger underneath I can see a film of oil.   I will eventually replace this.  Not enough of a leak to replace at present.


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## kvt

Dave if the sight glass is still in good shape,   remove, Clean out and then put a thin coat of clear silicon on the back side of the edge,  Then reinstall.  It should seal up the slow leak.  They do not look the same as the ones in mine.   But they may be the same size hole.   I have a couple of small pieces of plastic broken off the edge of one.


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## Dave Paine

I may try that.  The sight glass is clear so in good shape other than the slight leak.


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## wframe13

Dave, any chance you could measure the crossfeed screw on your Grizzly? Trying to determine if it would fit my Jet.  I need overall length, length of threaded portion, and lengths of the various sections that are not threaded. If it is too much trouble don't bother. Thanks.


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## Dave Paine

I will take a look to see if I can remove the lead screw without having to remove the saddle.  Not clear from the parts diagram how the lead screw is removed or what needs to be taken off to get it out.   I will let you know later.


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## wframe13

Dave Paine said:


> I will take a look to see if I can remove the lead screw without having to remove the saddle.  Not clear from the parts diagram how the lead screw is removed or what needs to be taken off to get it out.



Again, only if it is not too much work! And certainly do not take the time to disassemble the seat and bearing assembly (# 414, 415, 416, & 418).

If it is anything like mine, the screw assembly should come out the front.  I think you will have to remove the hand crank (#423) to get to the mounting screws (#417).  Then you should be able to unthread it from the nut (#437) and take it out.

If you do get the screw out, the critical measurement (I think) are:


A : Overall length
B : Length of threaded portion of shaft
C : Threads to shoulder for bearing (or from end to bearing shoulder
D : Shoulder to hand crank end of shaft
E : Diameter of bearing shaft
F : Outer Diameter of threads

And, again, please do not go to very much effort to get these dimensions!!


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## Dave Paine

It was easy to remove the entire assembly.  Set screw to remove the hand crank, then two cap screws and then just turn the lead screw all the way out.




I do not have a spanner or "C" wrench (or whatever the name of this wench) for the locknuts so did not remove.   I did not want to take a screwdriver to these.




FYI, removing the lead screw made me aware of a lubrication point for the power feed / thread feed selector.  It is not totally obscured when the lead screw is in place, but sufficient I did not notice this before.




Dimensions per your markup of the parts image
A.  Overall length approx 15.5in
B.  Main threaded section approx 8.375in.  Diameter is 14mm.
C.  Shoulder to threads on main section 2.236in
D.   Front of screw to shoulder after gear 4.79in
E.  Diameter of smaller threaded section not accessible, but the threads are 12mm, so I expect unthreaded diameter is the same.

I hope this helps.


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## wframe13

Dave Paine said:


> It was easy to remove the entire assembly.
> ....
> Dimensions per your markup of the parts image
> A.  Overall length approx 15.5in
> B.  Main threaded section approx 8.375in.  Diameter is 14mm.
> C.  Shoulder to threads on main section 2.236in
> D.   Front of screw to shoulder after gear 4.79in
> E.  Diameter of smaller threaded section not accessible, but the threads are 12mm, so I expect unthreaded diameter is the same.
> 
> I hope this helps.


Dave, Thank you very much!  That certainly does help.  I will measure mine tonight and see if there are the same or even close.


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## kvt

Ok,   That looks almost like my 1977 10x24.   It was made in Taiwan and is My Jet10X24 PY is a little bit diff but that is mostly in the housing and handles.  But the shaft looks the same.


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## wframe13

Well, that answers the question about whether the Grizzly G9249 parts are a direct replacement for the Jet 1024.  At least we now know the crossfeed screw is not a direct replacement.

Dimension..........Jet 1024..........Grizzly G9249
. . . . A. . . . . . . . . . .16.5". . . . . . . . . . 15.5"
. . . . B. . . . . . . . . . .7.75". . . . . . . . . . 8.375"
. . . . C. . . . . . . . . . .3.25". . . . . . . . . . 2.236"
. . . . D. . . . . . . . . . .5.5". . . . . . . . . . . 4.75"
. . . . E. . . . . . . . . . .15mm. . . . . . . . . 12mm
. . . . F. . . . . . . . . . .15mm . . . . . . . . . 14mm

I guess I keep looking for replacement options.  

Dave, thanks again for checking the dimensions for me.  It saved me some money and disappointment.


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## Dave Paine

Thanks for the update.  Sorry the G9249 is not the same.  Happy to help.


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## wframe13

Holidays slowed things down on the Jet, but there has still been some good progress.  I have replaced the SPST light switch that was the motor control when I got the machine with a drum switch to allow running the motor forward and reverse.  I have received the repaired quick change lever and cover.  They are now installed and working correctly.

I decided to try to straighten the crossfeed screw and it appears to now possibly be in usable condition.  After straighten it using a homemade hydraulic press, I was able to restore the 12mmx1.25 threads to a usable condition.  I have met with a machinist from the local Maker Space to discuss making a new bracket for the crossfeed screw bearings.  It was an interesting meeting.  He spent about an hour trying to dissuade me from attempting to refurbish the lathe; not successfully.  I pointed out that I view this project as an opportunity to learn about machining.  Hopefully later this month he will be helping me make a new bracket.

 At this point, the machine is basically back together as much as it can be without the crossfeed screw bracket.  The lead screw and the drive shaft are installed and working.  It all seems to run smoothly and with minimal unexpected noises.  The only tool holder that came with it is an old lantern style and even that is missing some parts.  Also, I have discovered that the tailstock is missing the  "tailstock MT2 spindle" and drive center, so initially, I will be doing only chuck work.

It is coming together slowly but surely.  And I am learning a lot about the machine and have read a lot about metal turning and watch a ton of YouTube videos about machine shop work.


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## Tim9

Just a note from my limited experience on sight glasses. My Asian mill... a Rung Fu 45 series Chinese clone, has a sight glass which screws in. It was not pressed in. I drilled two short holes in it and used a pin spanner wrench to unscrew it. If you don’t have proper spanner, two small drill bits held firmly in the holes and a screw driver placed in between them  can be used to remove and reinstall


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## Moper361

Dave Paine said:


> You may not need this, but some pictures for future reference by others.
> 
> A spare sight glass looking down, outer face at the top.  A small collar at the top.  Held in place by the O ring.
> 
> View attachment 244398
> 
> 
> The sight glass next to the spindle in  my G9249 lathe.  A sharp edge behind the sight glass such as a pocket knife should pry this out.
> 
> This sight glass is slowly leaking oil out the front.  Slow enough to not show in the picture, but if I wipe my finger underneath I can see a film of oil.   I will eventually replace this.  Not enough of a leak to replace at present.
> 
> View attachment 244399


Any idea if you can buy those little sight glasses online eBay etc as I've been searching for some for quite a while ,and the only place I managed to find was a place in Germany and when I contacted them they put me in touch with another company of which I'm still waiting to hear back from three weeks later so would seem I'm outa luck


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## Tim9

I'd try Grizzly tools. They have a good website and good parts service. It will take a little bit of homework finding what you need since parts tend to get discontinued for older machines. That said, the way to do this is to find current machines which share parts of older machines. Many mills seem to have new "bells and whistles"....New electronics,  but the items such as sight glasses seem to be somewhat standard across many machines.  I'm sure the same can be said for lathes. I think things such as thread dials are also shared across many lines which have the same lead screw size.  It's not easy, but with some work you can get it to work.  FWIW, I know some of the gear head drills also seem to have similar sight glasses. I bet some lathes still use same size glasses as mills. Good luck.


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## wframe13

I actually cut some chips with the Jet lathe last night!  I still do not have the cross feed screw installed, but the compound feed is working. So I locked the crossfeed and used the compound for the radial feed.  Not optimal, but it worked enough to actually do a little turning. Also, the only tool holder is a lantern style that is missing the rocker.  I made a very crude rocker just to try things.  I am not anxious to spend a lot of money on this thing until I know it can actually be made to work with some semblance of correctness.

Waiting to gain access to a local "Maker Space" machine shop to build a couple of parts for the lathe.  One thing I could use just a little help with is the Tailstock Spindle and nut.  It is completely missing from my machine.  If someone has one of these and could measure and post the overall length of the spindle, I would greatly appreciate it.  Also, I need to know how the nut is attached to the spindle.  From the part diagrams, it looks like it is a press fit.  Could anyone verify this?

And help will be appreciated!


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## DAT510

Hopefully this is what you are looking for?  This is from my 1024P.
Not shown: Tailstock Spindle Interanal Taper - 2MT



Spindle Dia: 32mm



Treaded Bushing: Est Length 20-25mm



Keyway Width: 6mm



Overall Length: 6 7/8" or 175mm



End of keyway to end of shaft: 14.80mm


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## kvt

Ok,   looks like 32mm dia,   the nut looks like a about a 21mm and pinned on both side Prob taper or something.   The keyway on the bottom of it is 6mm and the quill in 7 7/8 long front to back    Has a hole in it that I am not sure what it is for, and did not measure it.
Ok   looks like it is real good press or something to keep it from moving.  I know they used taper pins all over on this thing.
You can see the pins on each side of the nut here.



Here you can see the keyway and the hole that I am not sure what it is for.


Here is the taper end



Here is a pic of the hole looks like a pin could go through it to the other side.  
Maybe for holding the MT taper tang.   


The ring area you see just behind my thumb is a small grove that goes round it,   It comes out the front of the tail stock just before the screw disengages

Hope this helps..  

Edit:   mine is the PY but looks to be the same as the P  that dat510 posted while I was posting mine.


----------



## wframe13

DAT510 & KVT: Thank you both for the pictures and excellent information.  I have great aspirations of making both this part and the bracket that the crossfeet screw and bearing mount in.  For a newbie machinist, I may be biting off more that I can handle.  Only the future will tell.

Fortunately, I have the resources of the machine shop at the Fresno IdeaWorks maker space to actually make these parts for the lathe.


----------



## DAT510

One more thing to note.  The Bushing in the tail stock spindle is *Left Hand Treaded*.


----------



## wframe13

DAT510 said:


> One more thing to note.  The Bushing in the tail stock spindle is *Left Hand Treaded*.


Thanks for that note.  I might have figured that out from the screw, but it is good to know ahead of time.


----------



## wframe13

kvt said:


> The keyway on the bottom of it is 6mm and the quill in 7 7/8 long front to back


KVT, You said the quill is 7 7/8 long, while DAT510 shows image with tape measure showing 6 7/8.  Can you verify your length?  Thanks!


----------



## kvt

I will check again when I get home.   

Ken


----------



## kvt

Well just checked it out.   6 7/8, can't read my own writing


----------



## wframe13

I continue to try to source parts for the Jet 1024Py. In particular the tailstock sleeve.  I keep going back to the current Jet Machine lathes and looking for this part.  I cannot beleive that there is a lot of difference between the MT2 sleeve on my machine and the one on the current versions of the similar sized Jet lathes that might be available to purchase.  If anyone has a fairly new Jet bench lathe with an MT2 tailstock sleeve (like a 920 or the newer 919), I would be curious about the dimensions of this part: overall length, outside diameter, thread size, keyway size, etc.  I am thinking it might be easier to make an oversized piece fit my lathe than trying to make one from scratch.  Thanks for any help


----------



## wframe13

wframe13 said:


> Dave, any chance you could measure the crossfeed screw on your Grizzly? Trying to determine if it would fit my Jet.  I need overall length, length of threaded portion, and lengths of the various sections that are not threaded. If it is too much trouble don't bother. Thanks.


Dave, I am still looking for some parts for my Jet 1024.  Now the issue is that the tailstock sleeve is missing.  Could you measure the sleeve in your Grizzly for me? I am wondering if there is any chance that the part for the Grizzly might be the same as the one for my Jet.  According to a couple of other post here, the sleeve for my Jet should be 6 7/8 inches or 175mm long and 32mm in diameter with a 2MT.  Is that anywhere close to the sleeve in your Grizzly?  Thanks


----------



## Dave Paine

wframe13 said:


> Dave, I am still looking for some parts for my Jet 1024.  Now the issue is that the tailstock sleeve is missing.  Could you measure the sleeve in your Grizzly for me? I am wondering if there is any chance that the part for the Grizzly might be the same as the one for my Jet.  According to a couple of other post here, the sleeve for my Jet should be 6 7/8 inches or 175mm long and 32mm in diameter with a 2MT.  Is that anywhere close to the sleeve in your Grizzly?  Thanks



I looked at the quill on my Grizzly G9249.   Overall dimensions are similar, 6 7/8in long x 32.12mm dia, but the Grizzly has MT3 taper.


----------



## Dave Paine

wframe13 said:


> Dave, I am still looking for some parts for my Jet 1024.  Now the issue is that the tailstock sleeve is missing.  Could you measure the sleeve in your Grizzly for me? I am wondering if there is any chance that the part for the Grizzly might be the same as the one for my Jet.  According to a couple of other post here, the sleeve for my Jet should be 6 7/8 inches or 175mm long and 32mm in diameter with a 2MT.  Is that anywhere close to the sleeve in your Grizzly?  Thanks



I looked at the quill on my Grizzly G9249.   Overall dimensions are similar, 6 7/8in long x 32.12mm dia, but the Grizzly has MT3 taper.


----------



## wframe13

Dave Paine said:


> I looked at the quill on my Grizzly G9249.   Overall dimensions are similar, 6 7/8in long x 32.12mm dia, but the Grizzly has MT3 taper.


Well that could work since I do not have anything to fit in either MT2 or MT3 so whatever I use I will have to buy. But the sleeve will be big step in the right direction. Thanks.


----------



## Dave Paine

wframe13 said:


> Well that could work since I do not have anything to fit in either MT2 or MT3 so whatever I use I will have to buy. But the sleeve will be big step in the right direction. Thanks.



Before you purchase this part, you need to confirm the thread of the tailstock handle.   I did not measure at the time since I did not want to spend the time to remove the part.   I will do this later.


----------



## wframe13

Good point.  I looked at the Grizzly parts list. The threaded part (nut) is actually a separate part held in the quill with a set screw, so if it is the wrong thread, I should be able to make the correct one.  My feed screw is a 14mm outside diameter.  The parts list indicates the "Nut" is 15mm, so that nut probably will not work.  Still looking before I plunk down $90 for parts that may not be quite right.


----------



## Dave Paine

Some pictures to assist your evaluation/decision.

The nut is 16mm.  Note the round pin/key   A groove in the handle.   I had taken this apart before so I knew there was a key.   "Murphy" had the slot pointing down so the pin fell out.   At least it safely fell into the chip pan.




The screw may be a two part construction.   Note the roll pin.




I did not measure all the sections, but this should give you an idea how close this is to your lathe.




The screw is just over 14mm.


----------



## wframe13

WOW! Thanks for the detailed information.  The main thing I was worried about was the diameter of the feed screw.  Yours reads exactly the same size as mine. Since I have the feed screw for my tail stock, all I am looking for is a quill that will fit.  It sure looks like the quill on you Grizzly is exactly the same as what I need for mine.  I'll have to check the budget, but I may be ordering a quill from Grizzly.  Again, thanks for the detail information.  

As I suspected, this does not look like a part that anyone has needed to re-engineered for a long time.  "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" or in this case "If it ain't broke, why change it!"

I am beginning to feel like this old Jet lathe may be fully functional SOON!


----------



## agfrvf

You can use papertowels soaked with evaporust and covered with cling wrap on the stuff too big to soak.


----------



## wframe13

Dave Paine said:


> I looked at the quill on my Grizzly G9249. Overall dimensions are similar, 6 7/8in long x 32.12mm dia, but the Grizzly has MT3 taper.


Dave, Back in March, you posted a couple of picture of the tailstock leadscrew from your Grizzly G9249.  I recently received the quill and leadscrew nut from Grizzly.  Unfortunately, the leadscrew nut does not look right.  It is a barrel nut with a flange.  The barrel is about 2.5 mm smaller than the corresponding hole in the quill and the flange is about the same size as the outer diameter of the quill.  Grizzly is saying that there has not been any changes to the nut, so since the package I received has the right part number on it, I must have the correct part.  Is there any chance you could pull the quill sleeve out of your lathe and take a picture of the end of it with the leadscrew nut?  I am assuming that the nut in your quill is a simple barrel nut that is completely inside the sleeve.  If so, I would like to be able to show Grizzly that they sent me the wrong part.  Any assistance will be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Dave Paine

I will take the tailstock apart to get to the nut.

In the meantime This is the parts diagram from my manual.  Part 504 is the leadscrew nut.   The parts diagram does not show a flange on this nut.


----------



## Dave Paine

I removed the set screw and tried to remove the leadscrew nut out, but it must be pressed in place.   The camera did not focus on the hole as I wanted.   It looks like the nut was pressed in place, then a hole drilled and tapped for the set screw.   If I did move the nut I would likely be unable to align the threads in the hole between nut and quill.

This feels like a straight cylinder shape as shown in the parts diagram.


----------



## wframe13

That is exactly what I was expecting to see.  I will email your picture tothe Grizzly Tech Support people to see if that helps them find the correct part.  Thank you for the quick response.  I appreciate your help.  I will let you know how it turns out.


----------



## Albindf

I would like to know how this restoration project is going.  I have recently purchased a jet 1236ps lathe and I'm going to begin a similar project, except that mine is cleaning and possibly replacing components and no repairs (hopefully)


----------



## Tim9

Dave... I imagine that one could always just drill and tap another hole. That way you wouldn’t have to fight lining up the threads of the current set screw. If it were mine... I’d probably put a little loctite on it before I started drilling/tapping a new hole.


----------



## wframe13

Update on the lathe restoration:  Back in Sept 2018, I gave up trying to make the leadscrew work for the tailstock and fabricated a lever action  for it.  That has worked OK, not ideal but better than nothing.  With that complete, I have had a function machine lathe.  Last month I was finally able to take the machine shop class at our local "Maker Space" which will allow me to use their machine shop when I need it.  During the class, I had an opportunity to use their Grizzly lathe and it tailstock leadscrew.  The experience convinced me that I needed to get the leadscrew on my lathe fixed.  I had the leadscrew that came with the machine but no nut for the quill.  The original lead screw is a 14 mm 8TPI left handed acme thread.  That seems simple enough, unfortunately 8TPI is not a standard acme thread for 14mm.  There are no nuts available in that size and there are no taps in that size.  I talked with a number of people about this issue, including a local machine shop.  Everyone agreed that cutting the male thread is no problem but cutting a female thread that size would be difficult without a tap.  

I finally decide to bite the bullet and buy a matching left-handed acme thread and nut and replace the whole thing.  I ordered and have received a 12 inch threaded rod 1/2 x 8TPI, left handed acme thread and a matching round nut.  Unfortunately, the round nut was about .015 too big for the recess in the quill.  No problem, I have a lathe, I can just turn it down.  But wait, how do you hold a 1 inch nut so you can turn the entire length.  I though of putting on the threaded rod and hold the rod in the chuck, but since it is a left handed thread it would spin away from the chuck. Next I though of making a couple of cone ends to thread onto a smaller bolt to hold the nut, which would have probably worked.

About this time I was reading through "The Shop Wisdom of Philip Duclos" and came across the article "Temporary Self-Locking Stub Mandrel".  This was exactly what I needed, IF it would actually work on the threaded interior of the nut.  If you have not seen it, it is an ingenious and simple means of holding a piece with a center hole.  It took me about 30 minutes to make one for the nut.  It consists of a shaft turned to be a close fit to the center hole of the piece to be held. Next file or mill a flat paralle to the axis of the mandrel.  The flat needs to be just deep enough that a piece of wire will fit between the flat and the inner diameter of the piece to be help with about .002 clearance.  Finally, holding the chuck rotate the workpiece clockwise to wedge the wire pin and lock the workpiece on the mandrel.  All I needed to do was take two light passes and the nut was a good interference fit with the quill.  

I was/am amazed at how simple and how effective this little trick was.  I will be sure to keep it in mind as I continue to play with my lathe.  

Now all that is left is to drill out the bearing bracket, machine the threaded rod to fit that hole, press the two together, and reassemble the tailstock leadscrew and its bearing and I will have a functioning tailstock with leadscrew.  That will complete the "restoration" of this lathe.  This has been an interesting project that I believe will allow me to build many other interesting projects.

Attached are two pictures: one of the mandrel and the locking pin and on of the mandrel and pin in the nut (after it had been turn to size and pressed into the quill)


----------



## wframe13

Reading back through all my posting, one of the thing that I never mentioned was the replacement for the crossfeed bearing bracket.  What I finally did was draw it up using Sketchup so I would have all the necessary dimensions.  Once that was done, I talked with the 3-D printing guy at Ideaworks and we just printed it.  Turns out the length measurement was off by about 3/8".  This bracket is not a bearing piece, it simple hold the bearing for the crossfeed as well as the index mark for the vernier scale on the crossfeed.  I cut the extra length out of the middle install a steel washer as a collar for the mounting bolts to press against and a steel liner to reinforce everything.  It has worked wonderfully, even if the orange plastic looks a little out of place on the lathe. But hey, it works!


----------



## kvt

Great,   I forgot is yours a P or a PY,   I found that the spindle is diff on a PY than a P,   Thus I am having fun getting some chuck backing plates and a face plate for it.


----------



## wframe13

kvt said:


> Great,   I forgot is yours a P or a PY,   I found that the spindle is diff on a PY than a P,   Thus I am having fun getting some chuck backing plates and a face plate for it.


According to the name plate, mine is a Jet-1024PY, serial #102034.


----------



## wframe13

kvt said:


> Great,   I forgot is yours a P or a PY,   I found that the spindle is diff on a PY than a P,   Thus I am having fun getting some chuck backing plates and a face plate for it.


According to the name plate, mine is a Jet-1024PY, serial #102034.


----------



## kvt

Does it have a spindle that matches the M52.  
do you have a source for faceplate or backing plates for chucks that fit,  Have seen and found some for the P but not the PY.    
how does it cut and function now that you have it rebuilt.   Mine is nice,   but still may put some scales on it.


----------



## wframe13

kvt said:


> Does it have a spindle that matches the M52.
> do you have a source for faceplate or backing plates for chucks that fit,  Have seen and found some for the P but not the PY.
> how does it cut and function now that you have it rebuilt.   Mine is nice,   but still may put some scales on it.


I do not know exactly what size the spindle hub is.  I will measure it this evening and let you know.  When I got mine, it included a 3-jaw scroll chuck and a 4-jaw independent chuck, and a faceplate; all of which fit on the hub.  So far I have not tried to find any additional things to mount on the spindle.

I like the lathe, especially considering there was no *initial *cost involved.  But, understand I have (1) no experience and (2) nothing to compare it to so my opinion is not much to rely on.


----------



## kvt

I have 2 10x24s,  one is the PY and the other is a off brand,  Both have diff spindles, etc.  and are the first larger lathes I have owned myself.  Have Sherline lathe and mill that are great for real small stuff.   The diff in spindles means that I cannot switch the stuff around which is a pain.


----------



## wframe13

Well, after a year and a half, I think I can say that the "restoration" (maybe resurrection is a better term) is complete.  This weekend I got the leadscrew and nut in the tailstock replaced.  Apparently, the replacement of the leadscrew was not perfect: toward the end of the retracted movement, it get pretty tight.  But that is mainly at the point where it is pushing out the MT3 mounted accessory (live center or drill chuck).  As of now, everything appears to be more or less working.

Here is a list of most of what I have done to resurrect the lathe:

Had the quick-change gear cover brazed
Had the broken quick change gear lever brazed
Straightened (sort of) and brazed the carriage handwheel
Straightened the cross crossfeed leadscrew so it works without any binding
Installed furnace "barrel switch" to allow forward and reverse operation of the motor
Disassembled, cleaned, greased, and reassembled the 3-jaw and 4-jaw chucks
Drained, flushed, and refilled oil reservoirs in the headstock
Cleaned and oiled the ways
Disassembled, cleaned, oiled, and reassembled apron, cross-slide, and compound
3-D printed a bearing bracket for the cross slide
Purchased a 4-way chuck for lathe on E-bay
Purchases and installed an MT-3 tailstock quill but was unable to connect it to the existing leadscrew.
Fabricated a lever action for the tailstock quill
Built backsplash and selves for lathe
Installed a 1/2 inch 8TPI leadscrew and nut in the tailstock
Purchased MT3 drill chuck and live center for tail stock
Fabricated a hand crank to turn the lathe headstock by hand for threading

Alone the way I have made a simple EZ steam engine, the Myfordboy simple boiler, and a dead center with a MT3 tapper for the tailstock.  This has been a great project to get me going with my own machine lathe.  While some of my efforts have been less than perfect as far as the results go (like the tailstock leadscrew that binds at one end of the travel), it is still very rewarding to resurrect this old, neglected, mistreated lathe to a functioning condition.

Thank you to all that have provided advice and information.  I look forward to many more project with this new toy!  I will post a few picture this evening to contract how the machine looks now compared to when it was first dropped off in my driveway a year and a half ago.


----------



## DAT510

That's a lot of work.  I look forward to your Picts.  I think you will find your 1024PY a great little machine.  My 1024P has aways done what I've needed.

It's possible the center line of your tail stock leadscrew is not completely concentric with the tail stock quill nut.  It would present as you have described.  As the quill gets closer to the fully retracted position, the effects of a non concentricity would be amplified.


----------



## wframe13

DAT510 said:


> It's possible the center line of your tail stock leadscrew is not completely concentric with the tail stock quill nut.  It would present as you have described.  As the quill gets closer to the fully retracted position, the effects of a non concentricity would be amplified.


That is pretty much what I was thinking.  The problem I had was that I could not fine a nut for the quill that matched the existing leadscrew (14mm x 8TPI).  I bought a piece of 1/2" - 8TPI rod and a matching nut.  I cut off the old leadscrew close to the bearing/handwheel section, center drilled, and the drilled this section.  Next I turned the threaded rod to be a press fit in the drive piece and pressed it in.  I suspect something in that process was not as concentric as it needed to be.  If it get to where it is a real problem, I will push the threaded rod out of the drive piece and make a new drive piece.  It is not a complicated piece, just several different OD, a female thread for the handwheel, and a center hole for the press fit of the threaded rod.  I would probably use the bigger, newer, Grizzly lathe at the local Maker Space that I now have access to .


----------



## wframe13

Here are some pictures of the results of the resurrected Jet 1024py. The first one is as it was delivered with notations as to some of the problems. Rest are as it looks now.


----------



## wframe13

And here is a an overall pic as it is now.


----------



## kvt

wframe13 said:


> Fabricated a hand crank to turn the lathe headstock by hand for threading



I would be interested in seeing how you set this up.   

The tail stock may be wear in the quill causing it to get tight at the end.   as it is not as likely to be worn as much there, Or at least that is what I was thinking.


----------



## wframe13

kvt said:


> I would be interested in seeing how you set this up.
> 
> The tail stock may be wear in the quill causing it to get tight at the end.   as it is not as likely to be worn as much there, Or at least that is what I was thinking.



The crank is as simple as can be: a 5 inch long  piece of 1" with a couple of hack saw cuts at one end and the other end welded to a 9 inch long piece of 1 inch square tubing with a handle on the other end.  I turned a cone to spread the open, sliced end; drilled and threaded it to 5/16; drilled a hole through the handle to allow a 5/16 bolt to thread into the cone.  To use, push the pipe with the cone into the outboard end of the drive spindle, tighten the bolt down enough to hold the pipe in the spindle, and crank away.  To remove, loosen the bolt, tap it with a hammer. and pull it out.

WARNING - WARNING - WARNING: *NEVER* turn the lathe on while the crank is installed!


----------



## kvt

Ok,  I did not think or making an expanding cone type of connection to put inside the spindle.   I'm wandering if it would also hold enough to assist when trying to loosen the chuck when stuck.   A lot of people put it in back gear locking it, to loosen a stuck chuck, but that can be hard on the gears.  I may have to build one and try it. 
Thanks for the information.


----------



## wframe13

I generally use the back gear for my chuck.  I just move the back gear lever but do not release plunger pin on the bull gear.  This keep everything locked.  I suspect the crank could be used to hold or turn the spindle to unlock a chuck but have never tried it.  

The crank is not as useful as I had hoped it would be.  Turning the crank and turning the tailstock leadscrew hand wheel at the same time to feed the tap or die into the part can be a stretch.  But considering how little time and material is invested in it, I'll keep it.


----------



## wframe13

kvt said:


> Does it have a spindle that matches the M52.
> do you have a source for faceplate or backing plates for chucks that fit,  Have seen and found some for the P but not the PY.
> how does it cut and function now that you have it rebuilt.   Mine is nice,   but still may put some scales on it.


I checked the spindle last night.  It is a 52mm - 3.0 pitch thread.  I saw a thread someplace that suggest making a "dummy" spindle nose to use to test the fit of custom made plates and collet mounts.  I haven't done that yet as I have no immediate plans to make either a collet chuck or a new faceplate.


----------



## duanedr

What is the spindle bore on the PY?

I have a 1024P that was made in '79 or '80 and love it.   I have had it for about 3 years now.  It was my first experience with a metal lathe.  It's a very capable little machine and for a newbie, it's not too intimidating.   The only drawback for what I do is the spindle bore is only 1-1/16th inch.  I would love to have 2" but at this point, I have found ways to do what I need to do so the impetus to upgrade just isn't there and I don't want to give up any more shop space to the lathe so just going bigger isn't the right answer. 

If I remember correctly, there is a model of the 1024 with a 1-3/8" spindle bore but I haven't been able to determine what the model is.


----------



## MStrat

I just got a 85' 1024PY needs some help. I have enjoyed all the notes and helpful hints. A few have already answered some questions. Does anyone have a PDF of the manual to share? I'm new to machining but have always enjoyed fixing things. HVAC Mechanic by trade. Carpenter by necessity. Looking forward to making some chips soon. Thanks guys!
Mike


----------



## Albindf

MStrat said:


> I just got a 85' 1024PY needs some help. I have enjoyed all the notes and helpful hints. A few have already answered some questions. Does anyone have a PDF of the manual to share? I'm new to machining but have always enjoyed fixing things. HVAC Mechanic by trade. Carpenter by necessity. Looking forward to making some chips soon. Thanks guys!
> Mike




Here you go, I hope this helps.  I'm currently working on rebuilding my lathe


----------



## Albindf

Hey everyone, I'm looking for input on replacing my spindle bore bearings. I was wondering if it would be a good idea to replace them with a sealed type?


----------



## astjp2

Oil is better than grease, which sealed bearings have grease.  My 1325 bearings sit in an oil bath...


----------



## Albindf

astjp2 said:


> Oil is better than grease, which sealed bearings have grease.  My 1325 bearings sit in an oil bath...



Thank you for the response, I have been trying to research as much as I can since I'm completely new to machining and fabricating


----------



## astjp2

I recommend that you learn how to machine and dont get too much into changing designs of your machines.  Tim


----------



## Albindf

It's no so much as redesigning it but rebuilding a 30 year old machine and ensuring it's in tip top shape


----------



## Brother Bear

Dave Paine said:


> You may not need this, but some pictures for future reference by others.
> 
> A spare sight glass looking down, outer face at the top.  A small collar at the top.  Held in place by the O ring.
> 
> View attachment 244398
> 
> 
> The sight glass next to the spindle in  my G9249 lathe.  A sharp edge behind the sight glass such as a pocket knife should pry this out.
> 
> This sight glass is slowly leaking oil out the front.  Slow enough to not show in the picture, but if I wipe my finger underneath I can see a film of oil.   I will eventually replace this.  Not enough of a leak to replace at present.
> 
> View attachment 244399


Do you ave a source for these sight glasses and do you know if they are the same for a Jet 1236P? Also looking for a locator pin for the quick change gear lever on  Jet 1236P.


----------



## MStrat

Got my machine up and running. only issue is that I'm missing the nut/pin to change the machine to low gear(there is a pin in there as the large gear is locked to the spindle drive pulley. I've looked at the Grizzly parts list that was listed earlier looks like there is a spring and nut that are supposed to pull in a pin that locks the drive pulley to the larger drive gear part 119-123. How does this work? the pin is threaded spring holds in the pin? is the cotter pin just a detente for the flat nut? I want to learn some threading but don't want to start in high speed. Also not looking forward to having to pull the spindle just to see how it is supposed to work. any close up pics of a PY would be great I'm worried that it may be a little different than the P due to the spindle size being different. The pin parts for the Grizzley G9249 are cheap. Maybe I should just order them and dive in.


----------



## DAT510

MStrat, I'm having difficulty visualizing what you are describing.  Any chance you could post some picts?

On my 1024, there's a back gear lever which swings the back gear into position.  At the same time, when you engage the back gear, there's a pin that needs to be disengaged from the main gear to prevent the drive gears & spindle from being locked.  I believe this is the pin you are describing?

On my pin.... there a knurled knob/cap that's recessed into the large gear.  Pulling the knob retracts the drive pin.  About a quarter of the way down the drive pin is smaller pin that is perpendicular to the drive pin (forming a "T"). Rotating the knob, turns the drive pin such that the smaller pin locks the drive pin in it's retracted position, unlocking the larger gear and allowing use of the back gear.

I can take picts when I get home, if that helps.

Here you go......



Pin Engaged




Pin Disengaged


----------



## DAT510

Added Picts of Drive Pin to previous post.


----------



## MStrat

DAT510 said:


> MStrat, I'm having difficulty visualizing what you are describing.  Any chance you could post some picts?
> 
> On my 1024, there's a back gear lever which swings the back gear into position.  At the same time, when you engage the back gear, there's a pin that needs to be disengaged from the main gear to prevent the drive gears & spindle from being locked.  I believe this is the pin you are describing?
> 
> On my pin.... there a knurled knob/cap that's recessed into the large gear.  Pulling the knob retracts the drive pin.  About a quarter of the way down the drive pin is smaller pin that is perpendicular to the drive pin (forming a "T"). Rotating the knob, turns the drive pin such that the smaller pin locks the drive pin in it's retracted position, unlocking the larger gear and allowing use of the back gear.
> 
> I can take picts when I get home, if that helps.
> 
> Here you go......
> 
> View attachment 303709
> 
> Pin Engaged
> 
> 
> 
> Pin Disengaged



Thanks that helps a lot. That was what I was thinking but could not confirm. I think the nut and half my pin are gone. The remainder of the pin is still engaged with both the pulley and the gear. I've tried a magnet but there is no way to pull on the pin it seems broken where there should be the cotter pin. Looks like I'll be taking this apart if I want to learn threading.


----------



## duanedr

MStrat said:


> I've tried a magnet



Some of these lathes have a threaded pin rather than a simple 1/4 turn.  I find that if I don't tighten this lock pin sufficiently, I get a knocking sound when operating.


----------



## MStrat

Here is all I can see.


----------



## MStrat

duanedr said:


> Some of these lathes have a threaded pin rather than a simple 1/4 turn.  I find that if I don't tighten this lock pin sufficiently, I get a knocking sound when operating.


Ok, So I ordered the parts from Grizzley. All good they came in a few days. Here is a picture of the pin installed in the drive gear. I also notice that the two set screws in the three belt pully should not be tight it looks like on mine that someone had tightened this it looks like you could oil the bushing that this pulley is on if you are doing low speed work. I will be doing this.


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## rlg31963

kvt said:


> I have a Jet 10x24 PY,   in running condition,  The only thing I have found is somehow some of the small belt way on the spindle pulley got broken off.   But everything else is fine.   So I can take pics if needed.   I also have one of the old Off brand 10X24 that also matches some of the earlier Jet 10X24s.   It is one that I am working on,   Still need to get/make a new Backplate made for it.   so I can get the headstock lined up properly as I had it off and replaced all the bearings.


i have a 1024py that i just got and im in total darkness about it. it was taken apart for so reason and im trying to figure out how it goes together.and another problem there are brass gears that are torn up so they need to be replaced.every thing on the head seems to be intact but every thing that rides on the rails has been taken off.is there any place i can get pics or scmematics on how it goes together and maybe where the brass gears go.Any help would really be helpful.because i would really like to get it going and learn how to use it. i build and drag race and im a avid long range hunter and rifle builder.thank you very much for your time,robert.


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## brino

rlg31963 said:


> i have a 1024py that i just got and im in total darkness about it. it was taken apart for so reason and im trying to figure out how it goes together........is there any place i can get pics or scmematics on how it goes together and maybe where the brass gears go.



Hi Robert,

Welcome to the group!

We have some Jet documents here:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/categories/jet-except-grinders.636/
specifically this one: Jet 1024P (S) & 1236P (S).pdf
(you may need to be a donating member of the forum to download....)
.....but I don't know the differences between the "P" and "PY"

As above, replacement gears form the equivalent Grizzly model might fit.

You might try Grizzly for a manual too, they are likely very similar....(look at the "Documents" tab)....
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-10-x-22-Benchtop-Metal-Lathe/G0602
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-10-x-22-VS-Benchtop-Lathe-with-2-Axis-DRO/G0752Z

-brino


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## rlg31963

rlg31963 said:


> i have a 1024py that i just got and im in total darkness about it. it was taken apart for so reason and im trying to figure out how it goes together.and another problem there are brass gears that are torn up so they need to be replaced.every thing on the head seems to be intact but every thing that rides on the rails has been taken off.is there any place i can get pics or scmematics on how it goes together and maybe where the brass gears go.Any help would really be helpful.because i would really like to get it going and learn how to use it. i build and drag race and im a avid long range hunter and rifle builder.thank you very much for your time,robert.


Yes some pics of the carriage would be great. and if you could find out where the brass gears go that would be really great. They are around two inch gears. And i cant find out where these are located. thank you very much, Bob.


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## DAT510

rlg31963 said:


> Yes some pics of the carriage would be great. and if you could find out where the brass gears go that would be really great. They are around two inch gears. And i cant find out where these are located. thank you very much, Bob.



Bob,

If you could post some pictures of the brass gears you asking about, it would be helpful to match up where they go.


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## rlg31963

can do monday when i go to my shop thanks,bob.


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## MStrat

The Grizzley 4992 is the closest match. I have an 1985 vintage 1024PY . The PY has a 1 -9/16 spindle bore and the P has a 1-1/16. how old is yours the biggest differences come with age I could send pics of mine. There are extra gears for metric threading that go on a wing nut in my drive train cover. I don't know if any of the gearing in mine is brass.


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## rlg31963

MStrat said:


> The Grizzley 4992 is the closest match. I have an 1985 vintage 1024PY . The PY has a 1 -9/16 spindle bore and the P has a 1-1/16. how old is yours the biggest differences come with age I could send pics of mine. There are extra gears for metric threading that go on a wing nut in my drive train cover. I don't know if any of the gearing in mine is brass.


Where can i find the date on the lathe? Bob.


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## rlg31963

and allso would like to know if i can chamber a 30 inch barrel in the 1024py jet? thanks Bob.


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## Ewalk02

I have to say that all this information has been a great help!


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## astjp2

Grizzly is the only place and that is if they have any spare parts in stock...


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