# Kurt vise disassembly



## ARC-170 (Nov 12, 2020)

I have a Kurt D50 vise, I think. I was told it was a Kurt vise when I bought it and as far as I can tell it matches the specs for a D50 on the drawings I got from Kurt's website.  I called customer service and they told me that it will have the model number cast into the bottom. I need to remove the turntable to see this. In the meantime, I'm trying to take it apart to clean it.
Here is my question: *1. how do I get the back/fixed jaw off?* The drawing I have shows bolts holding it from underneath, but there are square key/bars as well on either side (see photo). My concern is that it will be misaligned when I re-install it. Is there a trick to this, or is it just a matter of removing the bolts and tapping out the square key/bars? Or, do I tap out the jaw somehow?


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## mmcmdl (Nov 12, 2020)

Remove the bottom bolts and remove the jaw from the alignment keystock . It's a tight fit and will realign when put back together .


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## cathead (Nov 12, 2020)

Usually there are two cap screws and the square bar.  Once the bolts are out, it comes apart relatively easily.  
I can't see there would be any alignment problem as long as you put it together the way it was taken apart.


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## ARC-170 (Nov 12, 2020)

Thanks. So I'm guessing I need to *2. keep the keys aligned the same way and in the same slots?* I'll mark them with a Sharpie.

I'd like to take this apart, clean it and paint it. *3. Anyone know the closest rattle can color to Kurt blue?

4. Has anyone ever bought a new nameplate? *The paint on my nameplate is totally gone. The stamped serial # is still there, though. I'm guessing they aren't for sale to prevent fraud, but maybe if I send in photos or something they'll sell me one.


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## hman (Nov 12, 2020)

If the back jaw is tight on its keys, you can loosen the bolts underneath, support the vise "on edge" (within another vise?), and use a wood dowel to tap on the screw heads.  Once there's a gap, you either try can prying there, or else loosen the screws further and keep tapping.


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## ARC-170 (Nov 13, 2020)

*1-2. GETTING THE VISE APART*
I got the vise apart. I had to tap the fixed jaw to break it loose. There was probably a cup full of old chips on and in this vise. It's now soaking in the Simple Green.

There is "SA" and A-50 cast in the bottom. When I was looking for what this meant, I found this on the P-M forum:  _"There is an employee at Kurt who reads this forum. He emailed me that it is a D50. And that years ago the body castings were marked with an "A" if they were made at the Scott Atwater foundry in Minneapolis."_

*3. COLOR*
There's a guy on YouTube who restores vintage machinery and he restored a different Kurt vise. He just used the loudest blue he could find, which was Rustoleum Sail Blue.


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## ARC-170 (Nov 16, 2020)

I called Kurt and got some answers:

*3. COLOR*
They told me to use Krylon "Ford Blue". It's from the "Farm and Implement" line.

*4. NAMEPLATE*
She told me that this vise is probably 40 years old and that nametags are no longer made for these so they don't have any. They often get damaged anyway, so they've gone to stamping them on the vise itself. She told me even the newer stickers won't fit. I find that hard to believe, though. I'll keep the plate, but I may not re-mount it.

*5. BEARINGS and PARTS*
This vise has the same measurements as a D50, but she told me that since A50 was stamped on the bottom, it's an older vise that was designated A50. The D100 has a similar shaft to mine (the D50 in the drawing on their website looks different), but she told me mine has no bearing. Seems they started adding those later. Mine has no bearing, so I thought I'd ask if there even were any.

I hope this helps anyone looking at a Kurt vise or restoring one.


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## ARC-170 (Nov 21, 2020)

For those of you following along, here's the finished vise:



I use "Ford Blue" engine enamel. I used Mobil Vactra #2 Way oil for lube on the screw threads and bearing surfaces.


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## Jeffro (Jan 12, 2022)

I know this is an older thread. Hoping someone will see the post. Attempting to remove bolt from bottom of Kurt vise. These are the bolts holding the fixed jaw.I got one out, been soaking the other. Tried impact, used a extension bar, no heat yet.. I twisted a 1” piece of 1/2” Allen in socket with extension twice. My torq maxes out at 150 ft/lbs and it does not budge.


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## Dan Krager (Jan 12, 2022)

It's a long story in detail, but the short of it is this:  commercial mixes of penetrating stuff don't penetrate quickly.  Kroil and WD40 are good, but the winner by a factor of 10 is something you mix yourself.  50/50 solution of acetone and automatic transmission fluid.  It's a mixture not a solution so you have to shake well before use. Apply liberally and it should loosen within 24 hours.  

A 36" long 3" diameter shaft in a ditcher machine was bound up with bearings rusted on and the huge nuts on either end refused to budge. Two days of commercial stuff, heat (lots of heat) the nuts finally came loose with an 8' extension.  The shaft simply refused to budge.  I introduced the farmer to this mixture and late in the day we applied it and gave up.  Next morning, the shaft had fallen out!  True story.  

Patience, my friend, Patience.
DanK


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## Jeffro (Jan 12, 2022)

Jeffro said:


> I know this is an older thread. Hoping someone will see the post. Attempting to remove bolt from bottom of Kurt vise. These are the bolts holding the fixed jaw.I got one out, been soaking the other. Tried impact, used a extension bar, no heat yet.. I twisted a 1” piece of 1/2” Allen in socket with extension twice. My torq maxes out at 150 ft/lbs and it does not budge.





Dan Krager said:


> It's a long story in detail, but the short of it is this:  commercial mixes of penetrating stuff don't penetrate quickly.  Kroil and WD40 are good, but the winner by a factor of 10 is something you mix yourself.  50/50 solution of acetone and automatic transmission fluid.  It's a mixture not a solution so you have to shake well before use. Apply liberally and it should loosen within 24 hours.
> 
> A 36" long 3" diameter shaft in a ditcher machine was bound up with bearings rusted on and the huge nuts on either end refused to budge. Two days of commercial stuff, heat (lots of heat) the nuts finally came loose with an 8' extension.  The shaft simply refused to budge.  I introduced the farmer to this mixture and late in the day we applied it and gave up.  Next morning, the shaft had fallen out!  True story.
> 
> ...


I have read about acetone and tranny fluid. The first week of soaking was in fact that concoction. I tried PB blaster the next week or so. Started a couple of days ago with krill. I read some where these may have been torqued at the factory north of 200 ft/lbs. I have never seen a 1/2” Allen twist like a pretzel. I have been cutting 1” sections hoping to get it to crack.  Allen wrench belonged to my grandfather. He retired in 1972. I am pretty sure it made in USA.


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## Jeffro (Jan 12, 2022)

Sorry meant kroon not fish.


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## ARC-170 (Jan 12, 2022)

When I did my Kurt, those bolts were hard to get out, but not that hard! I soaked them in Liquid Wrench overnight. I used a hex key and a hammer (yeah, yeah, I know!). Make sure the hex key fits tight. Tap the fixed jaw a bit as well; it might knock loose whatever is holding that tight.


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## tq60 (Jan 13, 2022)

Impact wrench with tight fitting key and lots of down pressure to keep it in the hole.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


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## finsruskw (Jan 13, 2022)

ARC-170 said:


> *4. Has anyone ever bought a new nameplate? *The paint on my nameplate is totally gone. The stamped serial # is still there, though. I'm guessing they aren't for sale to prevent fraud, but maybe if I send in photos or something they'll sell me one.


Yes, I got new ones from them
IIRC they were FREE









						In the mailbox this morning!!
					

From Kurt, after an inquiry  about replacements for the crappy name tags on the used vise I picked up in MN last week. Impressed with the customer service even though I have never bought anything from them!!




					www.hobby-machinist.com


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## Jeffro (Jan 17, 2022)

Still trying occasionally. I’m running out of Allen wrench. I’ve twisted 5 pieces of 1/2” in in a socket with extension bar. I have been giving it a shot with the impact hoping it would help. My understanding, the base has precision ground blocks. The fixed jaw sits on the, 2 blocks. The blocks have an interference fit. I’m beginning to think it’s the torq. As, the other bolt I was able to remove has no corrosion. I am now trying to fit a versa on 1 mill. As I sold the D688 that was on the mill. Guy got the vise for $225. The vise was tight and clean. I told him I felt like I was robbed, somewhat jokingly.


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## ErichKeane (Jan 17, 2022)

Jeffro said:


> Still trying occasionally. I’m running out of Allen wrench. I’ve twisted 5 pieces of 1/2” in in a socket with extension bar. I have been giving it a shot with the impact hoping it would help. My understanding, the base has precision ground blocks. The fixed jaw sits on the, 2 blocks. The blocks have an interference fit. I’m beginning to think it’s the torq. As, the other bolt I was able to remove has no corrosion. I am now trying to fit a versa on 1 mill. As I sold the D688 that was on the mill. Guy got the vise for $225. The vise was tight and clean. I told him I felt like I was robbed, somewhat jokingly.


The jaw sits precisely on the bed of the vise.  The keys are tight, just to keep the jaw in place laterally.  In reality, they don't really matter, since on a vise like this, you just indicate off the fixed jaw anyway.


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## Liljoebrshooter (Jan 17, 2022)

I have my vise apart right now doing some much needed maintenance on it.  The fixed jaw on mine has a 3/8×1/2 machine key.  Nothing special but it does fit into the body snug.
Those bolts might be pretty tight if they haven't already been removed before. 
Joe


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## Jeffro (Jan 18, 2022)

Does anyone have a picture of how, or exactly where the keys are. The bolts in the bottom are 3 1/2” oal threaded portion 2 1/4”. I talked to Kurt tech yesterday. I went through what I’ve done, to remove the bolts. He said the only thing left would be to drill bolts out.


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## ErichKeane (Jan 18, 2022)

You can see how the keys are in the 1st picture of #18 (liljoebrshooter's post), at least in the body of the vise.  There are just two keys that go between the two.

Drilling that guy out seems like it would be pretty terrible.  Trying something like heat is probably a bad idea, just because it might warp something.  Are you intending to have the bed ground?  Or just get the nut out?  Or is there another reason to want it apart?  Perhaps you can accomplish what you want without taking it apart?

My only recommendation would be to get an allen key impact socket, and go to town with your best impact gun.  Alternatively, the same socket and a really large breaker bar   I remember I ended up having to do the latter on an old D60.


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## woodchucker (Jan 18, 2022)

Liljoebrshooter said:


> I have my vise apart right now doing some much needed maintenance on it.  The fixed jaw on mine has a 3/8×1/2 machine key.  Nothing special but it does fit into the body snug.
> Those bolts might be pretty tight if they haven't already been removed before.
> Joe


Joe, from what I understand, Kurt has regular threads, not acme. I always thought that was wierd. Are you cutting new ones because you thought they were worn out?


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## Jeffro (Jan 18, 2022)

The vise needs at least a partial rebuild. It certainly needs some paint in hard to reach places. I will be placing some pieces on a surface plate and touching up high spots.


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## woodchucker (Jan 18, 2022)

Jeffro said:


> Still trying occasionally. I’m running out of Allen wrench. I’ve twisted 5 pieces of 1/2” in in a socket with extension bar. I have been giving it a shot with the impact hoping it would help. My understanding, the base has precision ground blocks. The fixed jaw sits on the, 2 blocks. The blocks have an interference fit. I’m beginning to think it’s the torq. As, the other bolt I was able to remove has no corrosion. I am now trying to fit a versa on 1 mill. As I sold the D688 that was on the mill. Guy got the vise for $225. The vise was tight and clean. I told him I felt like I was robbed, somewhat jokingly.


try heat. it will help loosen it up, won't hurt the cast iron.


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## mmcmdl (Jan 18, 2022)

Where are the pics of the vise ?


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## Jeffro (Jan 18, 2022)

Hope this helps


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## mmcmdl (Jan 18, 2022)

Have you tried shocking it out ? Can't believe a good hex head driver would twist , but you're cutting them up from old wrenches it sounds like from your posts .


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## Jeffro (Jan 18, 2022)

I will try just about anything that won’t damage the vise. I haven’t heard of shocking. I thought about using heat. However, the Kurt tech gave me a 10 series metal they use for jaws. I think it might warp the jaws.


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## mmcmdl (Jan 18, 2022)

Jeffro said:


> However, the Kurt tech gave me a 10 series metal they use for jaws.


What is this ?


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## Jeffro (Jan 18, 2022)

Normally a cold rolled.


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## Liljoebrshooter (Jan 18, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> Joe, from what I understand, Kurt has regular threads, not acme. I always thought that was wierd. Are you cutting new ones because you thought they were worn out?


They are 1 1/8" 7tpi left hand Acme.   It screws right into the nut
Joe


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## mmcmdl (Jan 18, 2022)

These work well on stubborn bolts if you can find one .


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## Dabbler (Jan 18, 2022)

@Jeffro I have been in your situation with allen bolts many times.  When they are that stubborn, you are limited in what you can do...

Heat and cold help - that is, put the entire vise into an oven at 200F for a few hours and the whole thing can heat up safely - don't go higher unless you want to ruin your paint. Even 200F is a little high.  Use computer cleaning spray to cool down the head of you socket head cap screw.  Use lots  of acetone with only a few % ATF to seep in really well.  Use a good quality impact Allen socket on an impact gun.

Even with all that, sometimes you just end up breaking the allen bolt.  no big deal.  You mill out the old one, and put in a new one.  that's what we have milling machines for!


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## Liljoebrshooter (Jan 18, 2022)

Here are some pictures of my vise and fixed jaw.
Joe


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## Jeffro (Jan 19, 2022)

Thank you. I will give this a try. Will repost on removal. Rebuilding a no 2j most of my time.


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## Jeffro (Jan 19, 2022)

I was reading the messages, not the thread DUH. I do have an impact. Thank you to all. I will repost on progress.unless my wife sees It in the oven. No doors on dog house.


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