# VFD installation



## ecdez (Mar 11, 2013)

I will need some advice putting my VFD in (once I get one) but for now I need help choosing one.


I have a small Hardinge turret lathe with a GE 3-phase motor in it.  Everything works as the previous owner had a 3 phase converter and demonstrated it. I tried to get a picture of the label on the motor so I could just post it, but I couldn't get in there to get a good shot. Here's a label I found online that is for the same model motor. I confirmed that the info on it is the same as mine.

Question is, how much of this info is needed to match against the VFD?









I found a TECO for a good price with the following specs

*TECO FM50 AC Drive, 1 HP, 115V 1 PH Input, 230V 3 PH Output, 4.2FLA, IP20*


100-120VAC 1 PH, 50/60Hz (Voltage +10% to -15%, Frequency ±5%) Input
0-230V, 3 PH Output
1 Analog Input (0-10V, 4-20mA, 0-20mA)
2 Programmable Multi-function Inputs
2 Operation Control Inputs (FWD/REV)
1 Analog Output (0-10VDC)
1 Multi-function Output Relay
3 digit, 7 segment LED display
150% rated current for 1 minute
200% instantaneous overcurrent
Electronic overload protection and stall prevention
Ground fault and short circuit protection
UL 508 / cUL / CE




Good match? If so, based on what info in-case this one doesn't work out so I know what to look for in another one.


Thanks!


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## Kennyd (Mar 11, 2013)

You only need to know the horsepower rating to buy the VFD.  The one you chose is perfect is you only have 120v available.  There are more choices if you have 240v available.


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## ecdez (Mar 11, 2013)

Kennyd said:


> You only need to know the horsepower rating to buy the VFD.  The one you chose is perfect is you only have 120v available.  There are more choices if you have 240v available.




I do have 240, but the one I found for cheap was this one.

Thanks for the response.


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## arvidj (Mar 11, 2013)

ecdez said:


> I do have 240, but the one I found for cheap was this one.
> 
> Thanks for the response.



If the 240 is not a lot of extra cash I would recommend you go for it simply to lower the amperage draw ... especially on start up.


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## CluelessNewB (Mar 11, 2013)

That will work but you would get better low speed performance with a "sensorless vector" drive like the Teco Model JNEV-101-H1 (also 110V in 4.2 FLA like the FM50).  The JNEV will also do 3 wire control out of the box (if you care about that) and has a built-in potentiometer for speed control.  If you go to 220V in you can go to the Teco N3 or 7300 but that might be overkill and more $$.

There is also a JNEV-201-H1 with 220V in rather than 110V if you prefer that.


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## ecdez (Mar 15, 2013)

Thanks for the responses.  The deal didn't work out with the cheap one.  I am considering the 220v version now.

I was going to ask the question about amp draw eventually.  I have a motor on my mill/drill that can be wired either way.  Right now it's wired for 110 but I noticed the label showed that 220 had a draw of almost half the amps.  Seems like the way to go to save on some power, but how does it use half the amps?  Seems like it would use double.


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## oldgascar (Mar 15, 2013)

ecdez said:


> Thanks for the responses.  The deal didn't work out with the cheap one.  I am considering the 220v version now.
> 
> I was going to ask the question about amp draw eventually.  I have a motor on my mill/drill that can be wired either way.  Right now it's wired for 110 but I noticed the label showed that 220 had a draw of almost half the amps.  Seems like the way to go to save on some power, but how does it use half the amps?  Seems like it would use double.



As voltage goes up amperage decreases.    As per ohms law I = E/R

Bob


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## ecdez (Mar 15, 2013)

oldgascar said:


> As voltage goes up amperage decreases.    As per ohms law I = E/R
> 
> Bob




That's funny, I actually knew that but never put it together :whistle:.


It's funny the stuff you forget you knew over the years.


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## Kennyd (Mar 15, 2013)

If by "save the power" you meant save you money, then it won't.  You are billed for watts, not amps.


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## LEEQ (Mar 15, 2013)

CluelessNewB said:


> That will work but you would get better low speed performance with a "sensorless vector" drive like the Teco Model JNEV-101-H1 (also 110V in 4.2 FLA like the FM50).  The JNEV will also do 3 wire control out of the box (if you care about that) and has a built-in potentiometer for speed control.  If you go to 220V in you can go to the Teco N3 or 7300 but that might be overkill and more $$.
> 
> There is also a JNEV-201-H1 with 220V in rather than 110V if you prefer that.


JNEV 201 H1
try dealers direct for a good price on this teco. I think it was abt $135. Thats a price to jump on. You would probably need to also. I don't think they constantly stock anything. Sorry, dealerselectric.com


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 26, 2013)

So do you think the FM 50 would be a good choice if I come across a 3 phase Unisaw?
Would probably only wire a on off switch. No pot needed (No variable speed needed) Would just keep it set to 60HZ.
Thanks,
Tony



CluelessNewB said:


> That will work but you would get better low speed performance with a "sensorless vector" drive like the Teco Model JNEV-101-H1 (also 110V in 4.2 FLA like the FM50).  The JNEV will also do 3 wire control out of the box (if you care about that) and has a built-in potentiometer for speed control.  If you go to 220V in you can go to the Teco N3 or 7300 but that might be overkill and more $$.
> 
> There is also a JNEV-201-H1 with 220V in rather than 110V if you prefer that.


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## CluelessNewB (Mar 28, 2013)

The correct FM50 would be fine for a Unisaw assuming it is rated for the current (FLA) of the motor.  Older Unisaws 3hp and under would probably be ok but newer 5hp 3 phase might be a problem.  The FM50 doesn't allow you to set the output voltage like the Teco 7300, N3 or JNEV.  This can be an issue if you find a 3 phase machine that came from a school with a 200V motor (not that uncommon).  Yet another reason I like the JNEV better than the FM50.


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 28, 2013)

OK, Thanks, Probably just get another JNEV then.
Need to find a unisaw first. 



CluelessNewB said:


> The correct FM50 would be fine for a Unisaw assuming it is rated for the current (FLA) of the motor.  Older Unisaws 3hp and under would probably be ok but newer 5hp 3 phase might be a problem.  The FM50 doesn't allow you to set the output voltage like the Teco 7300, N3 or JNEV.  This can be an issue if you find a 3 phase machine that came from a school with a 200V motor (not that uncommon).  Yet another reason I like the JNEV better than the FM50.


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