# Grizzly 0704 dead



## Gman45acp

I purchased an non working 0704.    Owner said was working and then just stopped.   It appears to be well taken care of and looks like new.  I called Grizzly and they have motor and the two circuit boards available.    Anyone have any suggestions where to stare.     I do not have it home yet but will be getting it this weekend.


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## DAN_IN_MN

Gman45acp said:


> I purchased an non working 0704.    Owner said was working and then just stopped.   It appears to be well taken care of and looks like new.  I called Grizzly and they have motor and the two circuit boards available.    Anyone have any suggestions where to stare.     I do not have it home yet but will be getting it this weekend.



http://www.grizzly.com/products/Drill-Mill-with-Stand/G0704

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/partslists/g0704_pl.pdf

I would start with the cord to see if it has power and go from there checking what has power and what doesn't.  Be careful working with the power connected with things opened up.

I see by the parts list there is a variable speed board and for me this would be highly suspect. Probably a blown SCR.  Look for blacken a component(s) on the board.


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## davidh

could a capacitor blown also cause non run ?   often they are pretty easy to identify as horse sh**.


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## xalky

If your good with a voltmeter, open up the panel, plug it in and start probing things. The variable speed board would seem to be the most obvious but don't assume anything. A voltmeter is your friend here...


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## SEK_22Hornet

Once you get it home, plug it in and see where you are at. I have one  and will be happy to help you trouble shoot it.  There is a fuse on the back panel of the control box - start there.  If the display lights up and the motor runs, but the spindle does not turn, there is a gear that strips pretty easily (if that is the problem, it is only $10 to replace it).  After stripping 3 gears, I decided to convert mine to belt drive. 

Dan


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## cwolfs69

:think1:

i would not buy a motor or board before having them checked out. if you go to http://repaircontrol.com/ (gerling laboratories) you can have your board checked out, repaired and sent back to you for much less than the new one costs. they will also give instructions on checking out the motor and other items, potentiometer, switches, etc. my board got fried on my new mill because my reversing switch (i installed cheap switch) went bad. it only cost 53 dollars to have rebuilt. replacement was going to be about $130. just a thought. very easy to install and check out. just drop me a PM if you like and ill give you my number so i can help. 

Charley


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## Gman45acp

Owner said he did not check anything on the mill.  It was running and the went dead.   I built several Heathkits over the years so I should be ok with a volt meter.   Once it have it here will start with the cord and work through it.... He does have the manual and online I see there is a wiring diagram so that should help


Thanks


Gary


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## SEK_22Hornet

Unless the cord shows damage, I seriously doubt that the cord would go bad (just my experience and opinion).  I'll be happy to take measurements on my mill when you start troubleshooting. Just let me know what you need.

Dan


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## Tony Wells

Gman, apparently, you are hitting the "Report" button at times when you intend to reply to a post. That sends a message to the staff that there is a problem with something in the thread or post.  If you want to participate in the thread, simply click the "+ Reply to Thread" button in the lower left corner of the page. It is white text on a background, blue in my case due to the theme I have selected.

I will delete the "Reported" posts that are in the Staff only forum. Please use the the report button only if there is a problem that needs staff attention.


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## burtonbr

My G0704 did that once, I actually ordered a switch thinking it burnt up and after changing it out and still no power, I noticed the fuse holder in the back of the control box. So now I have an extra switch and about 5 extra fuses for next time. Maybe you'll get lucky and just the fuse is blown.


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## iron man

I dont have that machine but my experiance with the boards has not been good I went through 5 of them Grizzly replaced everyone no questions asked but as soon as the warrenty ends and if I loose another board I will switch over to a board from a tread mill they are much more robust. I for one one almost bet it is the board several of mine just quit with no sign of damage on the board. On these sieg boards they dont use a FET or an SCR they use a Trench Semiconductor there a little differant but they do go bad these boards are not built very well.

If this is a brushless motor then the board is really differant you then have a ESC that basically turns the 120V into 3 phase square wave using PWM to control the motor a good substitute for this is built by Dart speed controls you will see them for sale on place's like Ebay fairly reasonable because they are not as common. Ray

Here is one it is for low voltage but you will get the picture. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dart-Contro...570?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f1de48e62


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## Gman45acp

Arrangements have been made to pick it up on Sunday,   Will start checking it out Monday and will be back in touch with those of you that offered help.    Thank you

gary


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## Rbeckett

I think you may be on your way to a 100% tool gloat when you get a chance to check it out.  Ackems razor says most likely it is minor and you will come out on the good end of this deal for sure. Even if you end up needing to replace the board or do a belt drive your gonna come out ahead because you have a new machine to tinker with in your shop.  So when you get er home and have a look don't forget to let all of us know what you find.  And don't be surprised if it is the dumbest smallest little thing that most folks would over look.  I worked on a truck for a few days till I finally found the short that was blowing the fuse, so be patient and you will reap the rewards in the long run.

Bob


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## Ian Walker

burtonbr said:


> My G0704 did that once, I actually ordered a switch thinking it burnt up and after changing it out and still no power, I noticed the fuse holder in the back of the control box. So now I have an extra switch and about 5 extra fuses for next time. Maybe you'll get lucky and just the fuse is blown.



I blew a fuse on my G0704 in the first few days of use. I foget what I was doing but I stalled the motor at low speed and it popped the fuse -- as it should have.  I would check that first above all else.

After that I would look at the SCRs on the motor controller board. They should be mounted to the vertical part of the aluminum carrier that the circuit board sits on. Generally if they blew up (magic smoke got let out) you will see it in their plastic cases. It ranges from a pin hole to the case being blown apart. You won't miss the latter, you might miss the former. I have also seen the MOVs (circular disc) get blown on this style drive too. I've repaired at least a half dozon of these style of DC motor controllers. When I looked at mine, it looked like a Chinese copy of a KBIC controller board FWIW.


Ian


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## Gman45acp

Well got I it home,   Took off the back cover that has the power cord going into it, four Allen head screws, plugged in and check the white and black wires for 110 voltage,   None.   Unplugged and took the fuse out,    Blown,   So tomorrow off to the automotive store to see if the have a 10 amp fuse the correct length.     If this is the only problem I will be lucky,    The manufacture date is 06/12 and I have the manual with the warranty card.     It had not been filled out or mailed in.  Does Grizzly only sell these off the web site or do they have distributors.
It would be great if it was only a blown fuse,   But I am not usually that lucky

Gary


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## burtonbr

I had to go to the electrical supply for the fuses, it is a bit smaller diameter than an automotive fuse. 
I think your going to be pleased one you replace the fuse.


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## xalky

Gman45acp said:


> Well got I it home,   Took off the back cover that has the power cord going into it, four Allen head screws, plugged in and check the white and black wires for 110 voltage,   None.   Unplugged and took the fuse out,    Blown,   So tomorrow off to the automotive store to see if the have a 10 amp fuse the correct length.     If this is the only problem I will be lucky,    The manufacture date is 06/12 and I have the manual with the warranty card.     It had not been filled out or mailed in.  Does Grizzly only sell these off the web site or do they have distributors.
> It would be great if it was only a blown fuse,   But I am not usually that lucky
> 
> Gary


They have a few retail locations. They don't sell to distributors. Get on thier website and check thier retail locations. I think you'll have to go to an electrical supply house for that fuse. You might get lucky at Home Depot, in the electrical dept. Automotive fuses are different.


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## SEK_22Hornet

I have not had to look at the fuse in mine, but I bet it is the same size as the mini lathes use (physically).  That would be a 5mm x 20mm.  If you have a Radio Shack store, they are usually a goods source.  They used to be pretty hard to find, but are getting more common.  Make sure you get a few extras, in case there is a short somewhere that took the fuse out. If you have to trouble shoot, you can use one of the outlet strips that has a built in breaker - they are usually 15 amp, and might trip before the fuse lets loose.


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## Rbeckett

I'm willing to bet that the fuse is all you need to get back up and running.  Especially since it has such a new production date and it was running and just shut down.  If he hit a hard spot in the material or lugged the machine down trying to take a deep cut at low speed it will pop the fuse very quickly and easy as pie. Your local Radio Shack has those fuses and you need to make sure that you get the correct one for the application to insure the board is protected as well as capable of blowing the fuse if it gets overloaded again.  Good luck and let us know how it turns out.  It will be a score worthy of a tool gloat if that is all that is wrong with the machine.

Bob


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## CodeRage

Glad it was something simple like a fuse.  Shouldn't have a hard time finding a replacement at a hardware store.

FYI, if the motor controller board goes out replace it with something like the KBIC-240D.  It's a drop in replacement, better built, and cheaper.


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## Gman45acp

Well the fuse was replaced and still dead.    I took out the screws and the boards to look them over.   I cannot see any blown components.   I pulled off the white and black wires that go to the circuit board and checked them, the fuse did its job and and there is 110 voltage to the circuit board.    I came in the house to look at the manual and then went back out in the garage.    Now I forgot which post I took the back and white wire off.     Getting old sucks.   Is the white wire on the post nearest the back of the machine????
Next will check the switch for continuity

cold in garage.   Tomorrow is another day.     It will be going in the basement when my two sons come over for turkey day.    Three of us should be able to get it down the stairs on a dolly

gary


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## xalky

I've been following this thread with anticipation. I was hoping it was just the fuse, but something inside me said that fuse blew for a reason. Is that motor 110v or DC? I just pulled up the spec sheet, it looks like a 110v motor. But I'm not sure now. It might be DC. If it's AC, Maybe try 110v to the motor directly, at least that'll eliminate the motor as the cause. Check you switch for proper function with a continuity test. If those 2 things check out the, i think the only thing between the switch and the motor is the board. Then you'll know that you need a new board. Somebody above suggested a better cheaper board to replace it.


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## CodeRage

Gman45acp said:


> Well the fuse was replaced and still dead.    I took out the screws and the boards to look them over.   I cannot see any blown components.   I pulled off the white and black wires that go to the circuit board and checked them, the fuse did its job and and there is 110 voltage to the circuit board.    I came in the house to look at the manual and then went back out in the garage.    Now I forgot which post I took the back and white wire off.     Getting old sucks.   Is the white wire on the post nearest the back of the machine????
> Next will check the switch for continuity
> 
> cold in garage.   Tomorrow is another day.     It will be going in the basement when my two sons come over for turkey day.    Three of us should be able to get it down the stairs on a dolly
> 
> gary




On the terminals that say L1 / L2? It doesn't matter since it is AC.
The output going to the motor is DC.  However, I wouldn't be surprised if that motor is universal, so it can run from DC or AC.  However the manual states not to run the motor at full speed for more than a few minutes.  Not sure what gives out first the motor or the controller but I do remember people burning them up at high speeds.

I would remove the leads to the motor and measure the DC  voltage there.  The higher the speed pot is set the higher the voltage will be.  If you're not getting a good voltage out of the controller it may be need to be replaced.  Be careful, it is a lot of voltage with a lot of available current and will put a hurtin on you in a bad way.

Here is a picture of the grizzly controller (silver) next to the KBIC controller (black).  currently the grizzly controller is attached to the lathe but they will soon be swapped.  Pic is just to show how similar the two units are.  So if you need more help than the grizzly manual provides look up the KBIC manual.




The Mill was upgraded to a 3 phase motor and VFD so I don't need it or the original motor or driver any more.  If you find that one or the other needs to be replaced shoot me a PM and we can work something out.

Oh, one last thing.  While working on mine I noticed a good portion of the crimped connection were less than half assed.  Had several just fall off the wire. May want to check for any loose wires as well.


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## SEK_22Hornet

xalky said:


> I've been following this thread with anticipation. I was hoping it was just the fuse, but something inside me said that fuse blew for a reason. Is that motor 110v or DC? I just pulled up the spec sheet, it looks like a 110v motor. But I'm not sure now. It might be DC. If it's AC, Maybe try 110v to the motor directly, at least that'll eliminate the motor as the cause. Check you switch for proper function with a continuity test. If those 2 things check out the, i think the only thing between the switch and the motor is the board. Then you'll know that you need a new board. Somebody above suggested a better cheaper board to replace it.



The motors are permanent magnet reversible DC motors, so they will not run on AC.  I'll have to look at the controller in my G0704, but I don't think it looks like the one posted by CodeRage - I have the back off my control box right now (need to replace the strain relief on the AC cord), so I'll try to get down there and take a photo of it.  I remember there being two boards - one may be the tach, but Ill have to look at the wiring to be sure. One more thing - be sure to check teh chip guard interlock switch - it kills everything when the chip guard is swung out away from the machine, so make sure it is in position and that the switch is working.


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## iron man

Its the speed control here is the same kind that I have used for years there cheap and robust it is a copy of a dart speed control they work good. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAG-MC-30-t...io_Treadmills&hash=item19e546d987#ht_25wt_642


This is really easy if the motor has two wires and a ground (green) or if you can pull the cover of and see that it has a couple of brush holders then it is just a regular DC motor if it has three wires plus lets say red, black and blue and no brush holders then it is brushless and requires a differant speed control. 

 But lets say it is a regular brushed DC motor just take a battery charger of at least ten amps and hook up to the two wires to the motor 12V DC is enough to spin the motor and tell you if it is good. Ray


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## iron man

I just looked at a picture of one that is tore down if yours is the same it is a standard brushed DC motor do NOT try it on straight AC unless you want to see smoke.. Ray

 # Here is another motor control board ebay is full of them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Treadmill-m...1?pt=US_Cardio_Treadmills&hash=item2a33ec5d59


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## Gman45acp

I took the wires for the motor,  brown and black off the forward reverse switch and put them to the leads of a 12 volt 6 amp battery charger and nothing

there is one of the brush caps missing and tape over the missing plub,   Brush looks ok.  About a half inch long, I put it back in and tape back over where the cap should go,   It seems to bottom out and there is pressure on the spring so it should be ok.... Should the motor show continuity if the VOM leads are put on the black and brown wire????   I think it should????

gary


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## Gman45acp

I checked the chip door switch and that is working properly

should not there be some dc voltage coming from the transformer on the smaller circuit board.   I cannot find any do voltage comings unto that transformer

gary


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## Gman45acp

When I picked the mill up the owner told me about the broken brush cap

gary


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## DAN_IN_MN

Gman45acp said:


> I took the wires for the motor,  brown and black off the forward reverse switch and put them to the leads of a 12 volt 6 amp battery charger and nothing
> 
> there is one of the brush caps missing and tape over the missing plug,   Brush looks ok.  About a half inch long, I put it back in and tape back over where the cap should go,   It seems to bottom out and there is pressure on the spring so it should be ok.... *Should the motor show continuity if the VOM leads are put on the black and brown wire?*???   I think it should????
> 
> gary



Gary

In my opinion, yes there should be a resistance across the wires from a DC motor if any good.  Checking the brushes was a good thing.  How about checking from a brush to a wire lead for continuity?  50-50 chance of testing the correct lead and brush.  

Did you check for power to the motor?


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## Gman45acp

I took the motor off and removed both brushes,   They are not the same,   They are slightly different size and the one with the clamp on it the wire is twisted and almost disconnected.   The one has a deformed spring and the metal cap on the end is missing two legs that slide into where the brush fits in the motor.     I and going to remove the gear on the end of the shaft and disassemble the motor to see if I can see and internal damage,     If not will order a set do brushes and caps



There should be a second picture of the motor which has two black spot on the housing,  look like burns,    Wonder how they got there
There was not voltage to the motor lead so I am guessing the board is also bad.     I think the first thing to do if is see nothing fried inside the motor would be to get the brushes and caps and then see if motor will run hooked direct to 12vdc

gary


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## DAN_IN_MN

Gary

Looks like you may be on to something here.

Why is the paper clip/clamp in this pic?




I'd pull the motor apart and check out the commutator.


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## Gman45acp

The clip is use to hold the spring back so it shows the frayed and twisted wire going to the bruch

Gary


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## iron man

Gman45acp said:


> View attachment 65033
> View attachment 65034
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the motor off and removed both brushes, They are not the same, They are slightly different size and the one with the clamp on it the wire is twisted and almost disconnected. The one has a deformed spring and the metal cap on the end is missing two legs that slide into where the brush fits in the motor. I and going to remove the gear on the end of the shaft and disassemble the motor to see if I can see and internal damage, If not will order a set do brushes and caps
> 
> 
> 
> There should be a second picture of the motor which has two black spot on the housing, look like burns, Wonder how they got there
> There was not voltage to the motor lead so I am guessing the board is also bad. I think the first thing to do if is see nothing fried inside the motor would be to get the brushes and caps and then see if motor will run hooked direct to 12vdc
> 
> gary



I would really look around and see what was arcing on the motor with all the brush as bad as they are the armature may not be any better. It may have taken out the board. It could be that the brushes where grounding out and energizing the housing and it started to arc against the case too bad... Ray


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## DAN_IN_MN

Gman45acp said:


> The clip is use to hold the spring back so it shows the frayed and twisted wire going to the bruch
> 
> Gary



Oh,  Good idea!  

Another thing that would concern me would be the power strain relief that looks like it's coming out of the motor!  Are the wires shorting out inside?  I'd take the motor apart.


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## SEK_22Hornet

I did a little looking at my G0704 and here are some things you can check.  On the AC power side, the voltage comes in to the little board with the  transformer on it to terminals toward the bottom of the board (the power cord black and white wires). I clipped the ground of my meter to the AC ground at the outlet I was plugged into  and traced the power through the chip guard switch (blue and brown wires in a cable). The AC is cut off to the brown wire whenever the chip guard is swung out of position.  Measuring at the power switch, I found that both the common and the hot wires go through the switch.  The switch is a magnetic locking switch.  A fifth terminal with a white wire to it provides 110 volts to hold the switch in, through the barrel switch.  Black wires carry the power to the L1 and L2 terminals on the motor driver board, which does look like the one already posted.  

A couple things to check - Make sure you have the barrel switch (direction) in forward position. When you hold the power switch in, does the red LED Tach light up? does it stay lit when you release the switch? If these are both yes, can you hear the power switch click when you unplug the power?

Measuring the output of the driver board can be difficult with most digital meters.  To check it out, try wiring an outlet or cut off extension cord in place of the motor and plugging a regular light bulb into it and see if it will light up.  See  if you can vary the brightness of the bulb with the speed control.  Check forward and reverse to make sure the barrel switch is OK.  

The motor measured 4 ohms when I checked the resistance across the two wires.

The black on the motor may not be from arcing - if he used electrical tape to hold the broken cap on, it could just be adhesive residue.


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## Gman45acp

Wires are attached in side the motor,    Motor is apart, can't see ant thing suspicious all the windings look goof.    Will post picture later tonight


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## davidh

if you see the brush springs have gotten hot, are loose and collapsed, the brushes need to be replaced.   it appears that they are shot.  
without the proper brush holder cap, the brush will not be able to make a good contact with the armature, the pressure that the spring produces will be un acceptable and it will heat up more and get destroyed.   
order a set of brushes for it and the proper cap.  
 the motor problem may have developed from the board being a problem and im clueless about electronics, just a bit knowlegable about small motors as I use to repair them for a living for many years. . 
 sorry, I can't spell any longer.
davidh


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## Gman45acp

Here is picture of the armature.   Every tab has wire attached and I can't see any burnt wires.     I have a motor and control board coming from another forum member.    Once machine is operating( if those part fix it).  Then I can remove brushes from the working motor and see if it then will  run 
if it does then get a new set and will have a spare motor


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## xalky

The motor looks good to me. I think those brushes gotta go for sure. If there's a motor repair place nearby, they might have those brushes and caps in stock. The brushes might have been the problem all along.


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## DAN_IN_MN

How about another pic just a bit more to the right?  I would like to see the condition of the commutator where the brushes ride.




- - - Updated - - -



davidh said:


> if you see *the brush springs have gotten hot, are loose and collapsed,* the brushes need to be replaced.   it appears that they are shot.
> without the proper brush holder cap, the brush will not be able to make a good contact with the armature, the pressure that the spring produces will be un acceptable and it will heat up more and get destroyed.
> order a set of brushes for it and the proper cap.
> the motor problem may have developed from the board being a problem and im clueless about electronics, just a bit knowlegable about small motors as I use to repair them for a living for many years. .
> sorry, I can't spell any longer.
> davidh






Good call David!  I missed the condition of the springs my first time around.  I think I was looking at the length of the brushes.  Yep, them springs have sprung their last!  They're toast!  REPLACE the brushes.  I bet you'll see continuity across the motor wires then then.


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## davidh

the armature does look good but only a growler could tell for sure.  I have one of those here, send me the armature and i'll test it.  are the bearings free turning on the machine ?  sometimes they go to hell and cause the motor to heat up and cause the brush springs to get so hot they loose their tension, as they have done.  another problem could be the field coils. . .  one side shorted and same problem. . occurs.   check each half of the fields, they should show the same ohm reading or very close to it. . . .

then again, as prev. mentioned, a motor shop can test it too and rebuild it for a flat rate, not really cheap but done anyway.  or you could send it to me. . . . .


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## Gman45acp

Here is a picture of the armature,   I think it looks good,   Will order a set of brushes and caps and see what happens,   Also have the board mad other motor coming


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## DAN_IN_MN

Gman45acp said:


> View attachment 65196
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a picture of the armature,   I think it looks good,   Will order a set of brushes and caps and see what happens,   Also have the board mad other motor coming



Nice and clear pic!
Personally, I'd clean that up on a lathe.  The place where the brushes ride is called the commutator.  It should be bright and free from nicks.  Looks like the brushes were allowed to wear down to the springs at one time.  

How do the bearings feel?


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## Gman45acp

Bearings are good.  No slop and they are smooth turning


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## Gman45acp

While waiting for parts to arrive I took a red scotch brite pad and lightly rubbed the armature,   This pic shows the cleaned armature,   I think I looks fine.


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## Rbeckett

Yup a good cleaning job on the armayure!!!  It will surprise you what even a small burn on one will cause.  Any other leads on what caused the issue and what it is gonna take to get it fixed again?

Bob


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## LEEQ

If your parts and cleaning don't do it, you might contact the Grizzly motor winding shop. Maybe cheap or free advice from someone that works on exactly what you are. best of luck


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## Gman45acp

Ok. Update if interested,   Got a replacement motor and controller board from another forum member.     Tested new motor with a battery charger and it runs,  yea.    Took burshes out of new motor and installed in the motor I cleaned up and that one runs also.     So a new set of brushes and I will have a spare motor.     Took the new motor and connected it to the switch and plugged machine in and nothing,      I did not hear the switch click so I went back to the other board and checked for 110 voltage where the power come to the board.      Nothing,  check fuse blown.

question.   If you plug the machine in and have the forward reverse switch set to neutral is the digital display supposed to light up and show 0000.     Days earlier when I had pulled the motor and there was power to the board the display did not light.   I have not seen it light yet.
looking at the circuit board I think the AC goes thru a disc with wire wound around it, then to the transformer with should convert the 110 to 12vdc but I couldn't not find any dc voltage coming out of the transformer,  I probed all spots on the circuit board where transformer was soldered to the board.  I had 110 at the board and coming thru the coil wrapped disc and to the transformer but found not find any dc voltage

Now if I can only find where I put that spare fuse I bought


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## burtonbr

Gman45acp said:


> question. If you plug the machine in and have the forward reverse switch set to neutral is the digital display supposed to light up and show 0000. Days earlier when I had pulled the motor and there was power to the board the display did not light. I have not seen it light yet.
> look
> 
> 
> Now if I can only find where I put that spare fuse I bought




I just today fixed the spindle speed readout on my g0704 today with a new sensor. With the direction switch in neutral the readout will display 0000 for a second then show 0 when the start button is held in for a few seconds then go out when the button is released, hope that helps a little, good luck with your repair.


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## SEK_22Hornet

You can start troubleshooting before you replace the fuse. At this point  you probably don't know if the fuse is blowing when you plug the mill  in or when you hit the start switch. This will help you figure that out  and we can go from there. Otherwise you will be going though a lot of  fuses! The side board acts as a filter for the AC power going to the motor  control board and looks like it does provide low voltage to the display  board.  The disc with wire wrapped around it is a torroid used as part  of the power line filter.  The motor driver board generates a huge  amount of electrical noise when it is running, so the filter is used  to keep that noise from getting back on the AC mains. Set you meter to the resistance function and set the range to 2K (2000 ohms maximum) connect one lead to the blue wire coming off of the fuse holder.  You do not need a fuse installed and the machine should be unplugged. Connect the other lead to the terminal on  the side board marked L (it should have teh white wire from the power card connected to it). You should not get a reading - it should indicate open circuit. If you have a reading, let me know what it is.  Hold the power switch in the start postion and take another reading - it should drop to around 250 ohms (.25K).


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## DAN_IN_MN

If the fuse blows right away this might help.

On thing I've found helpful trying to find a short circuit on automobiles and such, where the fuse blows right away, is to put a bulb in the place of a fuse.  This way the bulb lights showing current flowing and it gives you time to find the short.  I put the bulb in and start taking things apart.  Wiggle connections.

I don't know if this will help here.

Keep working at it!  It's probably just a small component on the board that you can get through RadioShack or another supplier.  

Glad to hear you got your motor running!  That commutator cleaned up nice!


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## CodeRage

Have you looked at the writing diagram in the manual? Bit of a cartoon but it serves the purpose.  page 45 http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0704_m.pdf

I would check wire for wire to that diagram.  Unless something came loose or the previous owner tried to modify the wiring I wouldn't imagine it to be a wiring issue.

Did you try swapping the motor controller yet?  SCRs are usually used to control power to the motor and when they fail it isn't uncommon for them to fail in a closed state.  This could cause a short.  It seems that when you power up the unit the tach lights up and everything is okay until the motor is turned on.  If it were me, I would first verify the wiring to the drawing and if that checks out, replace the motor controller.


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## Gman45acp

It runs!!!!!   Thanks to CodeRage for a used motor and controller board.   I finally got it moved from the cold garage to the basement and had time to go thur it.     The old controller board was putting about 13 volts to the motor leads.    But when motor was hook up it would not run and the voltage dropped to 0.   So hooked up the used controller board and then the voltage was up to 64 volts,   Hooked up motor and it ran but not much speed.  I looked to see where the pots were set on the old board and set the pots on the used board to match and that made the motor run faster and equal in  speed forward and reverse, at least by sound.    The DRO for the motor speed does not work.   Here is what I got

 With the forward reverse switch set to neutral and then push in the power switch the display lights up ( not real bright) goes to all number 8's with a decimal and then goes out.  When the switch is in forward the display lights,   Still dim with all number 8's with decimal.   So every part of the display than makes a number or decimal lights.   The motor speed knob works  but the display never changes from the all dim 8's

So it runs but still has a problem,  anyone got an idea what needs to be replaced.   I would think maybe the speed sensor but that does not explain why the display is not bright like those I have seen on videos posted on you tube
 Like I said it does runs but would like to have everything working that is supposed to

Gary


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## CodeRage

Doubt it is the speed sensor.  its just an it transmitter and photo diode. Sounds like the third board might be toast too.  What ever took out the motor controller and motor in all likely hood took that sucker out too

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## CodeRage

also, very happy to hear that did the trick for yah!

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## xalky

It seems like it might have gotten struck by a surge, lightening or maybe just a line surge. A lightening surge will wreak havoc on electronics even if it's not a direct hit.


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## CodeRage

In all honesty I feel that utility/lightning surges are over hyped.  Lived in Florida for 34 years and I've only had to replace 1 GFCI due to a lightning strike.  Don't have any kind of surge protection either.  Not saying it doesn't happen but it is very very seldom.

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## SEK_22Hornet

I would guess that the problem is either a power supply voltage that is too low or the processor on the display is fried. As for surges - here in Kansas I have had numerous answering machines, microwaves, and TV sets blown up by lightning or other surges - finally cured the problem by adding surge suppressors to just about every outlet in the house. I live out in the country on a hill and lightning loves to strike near my house (yes, there are hills in Kansas!).


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## John Hasler

CodeRage said:


> In all honesty I feel that utility/lightning surges are over hyped.  Lived in Florida for 34 years and I've only had to replace 1 GFCI due to a lightning strike.  Don't have any kind of surge protection either.  Not saying it doesn't happen but it is very very seldom.  Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


  Do you have an underground service entrance?  That makes a huge difference.


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## CodeRage

My present house, yes. Before that no.  Giving it some thought I wouldn't be surprised if the utility has more protection in place than usual given we have so much lightning.  Sorry for derailing the thread  back to the topic...


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## Gman45acp

Called Grizzly and they said probably the digital display part of the circuit board is out,   Cost of new board 40 plus shipping.  
Everything else on the mill is working.   I looked on eBay and I can get a digital tack for 15 dollars shipped.   So that is what I am going to do.   Once I start using it and checking the speed if will be easy to kind of get used to where the variable speed knob needs to be to get the rpm close.

Also ordered a 4 inch vise, collet set, edge finder, set of parallel's, center drills, test indicator, and mag base with dial indicator and a hand full of end mills from CME. 

Chips will ill be flying soon


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## DAN_IN_MN

Congrats on getting it up and running!


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## Gman45acp

made some chips   got it going  

If you need to buy tooling check out Complete Manufactures Equipment Corp in Madison Hts Michigan

they had a four inch (kurt type) with swivel base for 76.00   R8 collets for 4.00each got 5    10 bar set of parallels 1/8 inch for 25   test indicator for 22  also got a mag base with arms and one inch indicator. 1 thru 5 center drills edge finder and four end mills all shipped for 228.   ordered on the 19 and got delivered today by UPS.   Yea it is all made in China but so was the mill.    I mounted the vise and thru in a piece of alum.   chips were flying.   Now need to 
tram it in and make sure the vise is squared up.    Soon I will be ready to start that new pistol I want to build do some custom cutting on some 1911 slides


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## SEK_22Hornet

Gman45acp said:


> Called Grizzly and they said probably the digital display part of the circuit board is out,   Cost of new board 40 plus shipping.
> Everything else on the mill is working.   I looked on eBay and I can get a digital tack for 15 dollars shipped.   So that is what I am going to do.   Once I start using it and checking the speed if will be easy to kind of get used to where the variable speed knob needs to be to get the rpm close.
> 
> Also ordered a 4 inch vise, collet set, edge finder, set of parallel's, center drills, test indicator, and mag base with dial indicator and a hand full of end mills from CME.
> 
> Chips will ill be flying soon



I also saw several tach modules that would probably work in place of the one originally in it for about $10 shipped.  Might have to add a resistor for the LED side of the sensor and did not take any measurement of the original to see if the panel would need to be modified, but just another option to get the built in tach going again for less than the Grizzly part.


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