# Mbfrontier's Logan 200 Rehab



## MBfrontier

*My Logan 200 Lathe Rehab*


First, I would like to thank those that have posted info on this sight regarding their Logan Lathes. I have accessed many of these threads and have learned a lot. Especially, I would like to thank those that have spent the time posting their progress on restoring Logan 200 Lathes specifically. Obviously, for me, these have been the most informative. It has been so helpful I thought I would post the work on my lathe hoping it will benefit someone else that heads down this path.


*A little history*

I purchased my Logan 200 Lathe on 12/10/2013 for XXXXXXXXX The serial number is 15012 so it appears it was manufactured in 1942 according to the info on the Logan Lathe Website. I had always wanted a small lathe in my home shop so when a friend mentioned his son-in-law might be interested in selling a small lathe I told him I may be interested. He must have told his son-in-law I was looking for a small lathe because the next day I had an email from his son-in-law with pictures of the lathe and his telephone number. I called him immediately and we spoke about what came with it and his honest assessment about its’ age, condition, and what would come with it. He told me it ran and everything works but he only used it to turn some plastic and wood. He was unsure about how it would be for turning steel and other metals. After finding out his price I went and picked it up immediately.


This is what it looked like at the location where I picked it up:




The lathe came with a full set of change gears (I think), six inch Cushman three jaw chuck, a steady rest, a lantern tool post, dead center, live center, some wood cutting chisels, and many misc. HSS cutting bits.


First, I should mention the last time I ran a metal lathe was in shop class in high school. I’m retired now so I won’t say how many years ago that was. Anyway, I had to refresh my memory in basic turning and facing operations along with learning the operation of this machine. Thanks to this website and YouTube, I was able to accomplish the basics.


I had planned on checking the machine over to assess what it needed and get started on refurbishing right away but other priorities took over. Recently, I returned to starting to work on this project. Getting reacquainted with basic lathe operations and working on several projects on the lathe helped me to determine the obvious needs of this machine. I’m sure there are many “less obvious” issues I’ll face once I start taking things apart. I was unsure if I wanted to spend time and money rehabbing this machine or just sell it and go buy a new 12 X 36  lathe. Cabin fever has set in and I needed a project so I guess I’ll get started on the rehab.


*Getting Started*

To date, I have purchased several items for this lathe as well as completed some minor repairs. I replaced the countershaft and bushings, installed a serpentine belt, installed a linked drive belt, installed a Phase II AXA size QCTP, and purchased a Shars 6 inch 3 jaw chuck and back plate. My spindle cone pulley gear had three teeth missing so I just purchased a used spindle cone pulley with gear from an eBay seller. It turns out this cone pulley with gear is in good shape but has been reworked with a brass sleeve and the ID of the pulley and gear measure 1.200 in. so as-is it is too small to fit my 1.250 in. spindle. I’m going to enlist the help of a small local machine shop to help me take care of that.


Yesterday, I started to take the lathe apart. I thought I would start with disassembling and removing the head stock.






Once I had the headstock off the lathe bed, I removed the back gears. Then, I was trying to figure out how to remove the name plate without destroying it when I noticed there were two tiny holes visible inside the headstock case. I used a small finishing nail that I ground flat on one end and cut the head off the other end and put it in a small chuck with MT2 mandrel. I was able to tap out the small drive screws and keep the name plate intact.




One of the surprises in disassembling the headstock was the keyed shifter gear LA-129 on the back gear eccentric shaft. The gear that came off of the eccentric shaft LA-125 has two keyways and looks like a 24 tooth change gear with an extra keyway to me. Unfortunately, I didn’t pay attention to which key slot was engaged with the key so it may be an adventure figuring out proper reassembly if there is such a thing. Has anyone else had a shifter gear like this?




I’m not sure exactly how well the back gears worked because the key was missing in the shifter rod so it was impossible to keep the rod in the right position. I was able to hold the rod out with the bull gear disengaged and the back gears worked as far as spinning the spindle. However, there was some noise that may be caused by the gears not meshing right because of the shifter rod key missing. I have a shifter rod key and spring on order from Logan.


Anyway, the pile of parts are on the bench and I’ll be focusing on the headstock assy. before moving on to the bed, apron, carriage, etc. It is apparent to me this machine has been apart before, maybe several times, for repairs.




That’s it for now.


Mike B.


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## Redlineman

CHARGE!

Not trying to hack your thread, but my back gear looked like the pic below.




Don't suppose it matters as long as it works. You do what you have to, eh? Also, I have a reference to that cone pulley gear on my thread. The originals on our old timers were not bushed. My replacement was the late bushed variety, and required use of that gear and the cone that fits it instead of my original. Again, no matter as long as it works and is not a cobb job!

Looking forward to paying you back!


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## MBfrontier

Hey, Redlineman.

No worries of you hacking my thread. I'm happy to see your response here. Please feel free to post whatever you feel is relevant.

I see your shifter gear has one keyway in it which is what I suspected. I'm sure having two keyways will make getting it right twice as difficult. Although, I have not cleaned up my shifter gear yet with the hope I can figure out its' original position. When it was disassembled, I was not paying attention to how many keyways were in the gear expecting only one. Oh well.

If you look at the spindle cone pulley on the table with the rest of the parts, you will see there is a bushing in the end of the gear. The cone pulley that came on the lathe with the gear that is missing three teeth is in the plastic bag with all of the other spindle parts.  Anyway, I used the Logan Spindle drawing that you posted on your thread to take the spindle and cone pulley to a local machine shop to machine the spindle to 1.225 in. where the cone pulley rides and bore the bushings in the cone pulley and pinion gear to 1.2275 in. That will remove the scoring from the spindle and give the proper clearance for lubrication between the spindle and cone pulley. Also, this will eliminate what I think was excessive play between the original cone pulley and spindle. You could grab the cone pulley and pull it up and down and feel it knocking. I think that contributed to the noise when running in back gears. Too bad I don't have another lathe lying around to do the machine work myself. Believe me, I thought about it. A new 12 X 36 would do. Anyway.............

Oh yea, I also took my back gear eccentric shaft in to the local machine shop with the other parts to have a screwdriver slot cut in the end to ease installing the shifter in the proper position. Thanks, again for that tip.

Today, I'm going to introduce some parts to the blast cabinet and then brush on some paint. I'll post more pics when I make more progress.

Mike B.


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## Ulma Doctor

looking good already!
can't wait to see the thread progress...


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## MBfrontier

I was able to remove the change gear threading plate off of the change gear cover the same way I removed the nameplate from the headstock.




Here’s the outside of the change gear cover.




I introduced the parts to the blast cabinet to clean them up and get them ready for paint. I’m just blasting off the old paint, washing the best I can to try and get the oil and grease out of the pores of the castings and brush on some paint.




Here’s a few of the parts after I brushed some paint on. By the way, I purchased a quart of Benjamin Moore Baby Seal Grey 2119-30 shortly after Redlineman’s post in 2013 about his research on the original color of the Logan 200 Lathe. Thanks, Redlineman.






I think I have some Glyptal left somewhere in my paint cabinet that I used to coat engine lifter valleys that I’ll use to coat the inside of my headstock to save some paint. As you can see, I blasted, washed, and painted the parts. I hope I don’t regret not using any primer.

I will continue the blast, wash, and paint the rest of the parts but I won’t bore you with posting pictures of them. I will post pictures of future assemblies, disassembly’s, and anything else that may be of interest.

That’s it for now.


Mike B.


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## Redlineman

Yur flyin, man!

At this rate you stand to beat both Tom and I! I sure wish you had done your resto before I started mine so I would have thought to knock the drive screws out from the back. DOH! I also wish that Matthew would make me a new badge. Mine is pretty hammered. As for the shifter gear, the tracks left on the back side should make it fairly easy to decipher. whichever slot they had used when you got it, you can bet it is a bodge to get around some mayhem done to the shifter mechanism itself. I think they regularly are exposed to mayhem. Mine didn't even HAVE a shifter!

I'll make sure I have my thirst primed for when you go to adjust the back gear lash. When you use that slot to adjust it, you'll quickly see that the beer will rightly be on you!!


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## MBfrontier

Thanks Ulma Doctor.

Redlineman, the beer is already definitely on me!

Mike B.


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## lo7us

Oh boo, great timing for me... I'm about to refurbish the same lathe... I appreciate your post, thank you.


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## MBfrontier

Hey, lo7us.

The more the merrier!

There's a lot of very good information on this site for those rehabbing Logan Lathes. Certainly, I have benefitted greatly from others that have posted info on their restoration projects. I won't try to name them all. The main reason I am posting info on my project is with the hope someone can benefit from the info on my project.

Today consisted of more parts blasting and some painting. Also, I am supposed to pick up my spindle, Cone pulley, and eccentric shaft from the machine shop this afternoon so I have my fingers crossed all is done.

Mike B.


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## MBfrontier

I removed the rest of the parts from the bed of the lathe. Since everything else was off the bed, I removed the tailstock, leadscrew, apron, saddle, and rack. I removed the leadscrew by removing the right bracket and spacing collar. Then, I removed the left bracket and pulled the leadscrew out of the saddle to the left. Next, I removed the saddle by removing the two allen head bolts that attach it to the carriage. Then, I removed the front gib and saddle gib and removed the carriage. I removed the rack by taking out the 7 machine screws.

At this point, the only thing left standing is the bed, bed supports, chip pan, and legs. I took the opportunity to clean up the ways with a lot of scraping and rubbing with some solvent and a scotchbrite pad.

The ways are in fair shape with lots of dings around the chuck area. It’s not as clean as some of the others I’ve seen on this site but I’m playing the hand I was dealt. Here’s a picture of the cleaned up ways and a close-up of the dinged area by the chuck.





I’ll be concentrating on cleaning and painting the bed, chip pan, risers, and legs. That will allow me to reassemble it as it is now and install the assemblies and parts as I complete them. Theoretically, anyway.

That’s it for now.

Mike B.


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## Redlineman

Ah...

Those aren't nicks and dings, they are oil holders! Stone'm down and don't give'm another thought. Paint removal on the big stuff; 4" electric grinder, twisted wire round and cup brushes. Ear plugs, safety glasses and a dust mask.


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## MBfrontier

Oil holders. I like it!

I disassembled the legs, chip pan, and bed and worked on the sides and bottom of the ways some more and got the major gunk scraped and scotch-brited off. The legs should fit in my blast cabinet and the chip pan needs a little body work to fix some dings and bends but should turn out just fine.

Thanks for the wire brush tip. I'll be picking up a couple tomorrow.

Mike B.


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## Redlineman

Yeah. I used chemical stripper on mine first, but it doesn't take every little bit off. Didn't have all that much effect on the original enamel paint, interestingly. A 4 inch grinder with a wire brush on it is not for the young your faint of heart, but it really rips everything right down to the bear casting. It really does the job and does it quick.

Reporting live from Brockville Ontario.
(Even got my little Canadian flag)


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## clivel

Redlineman said:


> Ah...
> Those aren't nicks and dings, they are oil holders! Stone'm down and don't give'm another thought. Paint removal on the big stuff; 4" electric grinder, twisted wire round and cup brushes. Ear plugs, safety glasses and a dust mask.



I am also busy with a Logan 200 rebuild. I bought the lathe about a year ago, but didn't get too far when a house move slowed down the proceedings. I am hoping to get going again in the next few weeks.
Unfortunately most of the before and other photos were lost in a hard drive crash, but this is the current status - so far only the tailstock and topslide are done:




I used the Benjamin Moore Baby Seal Grey Black 2119-30 but it looks much darker. This may be due to camera variations, or perhaps there are two different Baby Seal colours, a grey and a black? Either way I am quite happy with the colour on mine.

Anyway, the point of this posting, was wondering about stoning the bed. What stone would be recommended, and how does one actually go about it?
Thanks,
Clive


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## MBfrontier

Nice looking parts clivel.

Take a look at post #61 on "Redlineman's 200 Rescue" thread. He explains what he used to stone his ways and what he used to do it.


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## clivel

MBfrontier said:


> Take a look at post #61 on "Redlineman's 200 Rescue" thread. He explains what he used to stone his ways and what he used to do it.


Thanks MBfrontier that is exactly what I was looking for,
Regards,
Clive


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## MBfrontier

The last few days I have been working on stripping and painting the bed, risers, chip pan, and legs. The bed is done. The risers, chip pan, and legs have been stripped and painted on one side. I will paint the other sides tomorrow. Here’s a picture of the finished bed and the risers painted on the inside and bottom.





That’s it for now.

Mike B.


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## James_Douglas

MBfrontier said:


> I was able to remove the change gear threading plate off of the change gear cover the same way I removed the nameplate from the headstock.
> 
> 
> 
> .



Mike, Could you scan a high res copy of the change gear plate? I do not have one and would not mind printing one in color on heavy stock and laminating it and sticking in inside the cover. 

James.


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## clivel

James_Douglas said:


> Mike, Could you scan a high res copy of the change gear plate? I do not have one and would not mind printing one in color on heavy stock and laminating it and sticking in inside the cover.
> James.


James,
Take a look here: http://conradhoffman.com/Logan Tricks.html scroll down about two-thirds of the page and you will see a little image of the change gear plate. Click on it to open it up in hi-rez.
I hope that helps and hopefully saves Mike from having to scan his 
Clive


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## MBfrontier

Hey, James Douglas.

It looks like the link that clivel provided is much less faded than the threading chart plate that I have. However, if you need a higher resolution image you can send me a PM and I can email one to you. PhotoBucket allows up to 1024 X 768 resolution images. I just tried scanning the threading plate at 600 dpi as a jpg image and the file is 3.8 mb.


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## Redlineman

Mine was also missing. I eventually found a VERY nice one on ebay for $10. Very much the same as Conrad's. He knows his Logans, for sure. I like the print out of the chart he has on the wall! If you need a good photo, let me know.


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## James_Douglas

MBfrontier said:


> Hey, James Douglas.
> 
> It looks like the link that clivel provided is much less faded than the threading chart plate that I have. However, if you need a higher resolution image you can send me a PM and I can email one to you. PhotoBucket allows up to 1024 X 768 resolution images. I just tried scanning the threading plate at 600 dpi as a jpg image and the file is 3.8 mb.



A thanks to Clive as I pulled that one down.  However, I like yours in brass   I will PM you my email address.  I run my own mail server so attachment size is not an issue. When you have time...no hurry at the rate I am going.

Best, James


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## MBfrontier

Hey, James Douglas.

File sent.


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## MBfrontier

OK, I’m back with the bed, risers, chip pan, and legs cleaned up, painted, and assembled. Also, I picked up some 5/8 – 11 carriage bolts that I screwed into the bottom of the legs that I am using as levelers. I am placing the curved portion of the head of the carriage bolt into a hole in the middle of a large washer placed on top of a 1 inch piece of rubber setting on the concrete floor. Makes it a lot easier to level the lathe without having to use shims and is cheap.





Now I’ll be able to install the components as I complete them. I know I’ll be installing the headstock next.

That’s all for now.

Mike B.


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## Redlineman

Looking good, Mike!!

Now the real fun begins, eh?


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## MBfrontier

Thanks, Redlineman.

Yes, now I get to "fiddle" with all the parts and deal with fit and adjustment issues.

I think I have the back gears properly installed in the headstock considering the two keyways that are cut in the shifter gear. Also, I received and installed the latch key and spring from Logan for the shifter rack assembly so now it locks in position when its' pulled out. I'll have to check the engagement with the bull and cone gears after I install the spindle assembly. I had a screwdriver slot cut in the eccentric shaft and appreciate how convenient that will be in getting the adjustment right.

While looking for a local machine shop to turn my spindle and bore my cone pulley I found a very cool machine shop within two miles of my home that I never knew existed. It's in one of those concrete block buildings that you pass by between farms that you have no idea what is inside. I live in a rural farming community where there are plenty of old farm machines that the local farmers need  parts made to repair. That is what this shop specializes in. I had them turn my spindle to remove the scoring where the cone pulley rides, bore the cone pulley bushing to fit the turned spindle (purchased a cone pulley with good cone gear from eBay and the bushing bore was 1.200 in. so there was plenty of bushing to bore), cut a screwdriver slot in the back gear eccentric shaft, and bore the motor pulley from 1/2 in. to 5/8 in. and cut a 3/16 in. keyway to fit on a new motor. I thought the $100.00 they charged me was fair for nice work and one day turnaround time. It's good to know there is a shop like this close to me and I'll happily use them again when needed. Nice surprise.

Mike B.


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## MBfrontier

Today I cleaned and mounted the rack with six screws (I was in error on a prior post when I said seven screws).




I installed the back gears in the headstock and there are is an allen set screw for each of the eccentric shaft bearing caps that need to be tightened in the same screw hole that doubles as the headstock mounting holes. Then, I mounted the headstock to the lathe bed and installed the spindle assembly. At this point I tried to engage the back gears and realized the back gear under the bull gear was jamming up against the front rim of the cone pulley. So, I had to remove the headstock mounting bolts to loosen the eccentric shaft bearing caps to adjust the back gears so they would ride in between the two rims of the cone pulley without rubbing. Then I reinstalled the headstock and adjusted the back gear shifter to get full engagement between the back gears, bull gear, and cone pulley gear. Piece of cake with the screwdriver slot in the eccentric shaft. Redlineman, the beer’s on me.





That's it for now.

Mike B.


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## Redlineman

Wow;

That thing looks fantastic. Yep, there sure is a lot of jiggering and fiddling to get everything lined up and talking the right language. I just couldn't resist trial fitting everything on my spindle a whole bunch of times, even before I had all the parts to finish it, like the poly v belt. It was a useful exercise in the end, as when I had it all ready, the final fitting went pretty quickly.

We all owe a beer to whoever it was that told ME about that screw driver slot trick!


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## RandyM

Looking good. You are doing a very nice job. Thank you for sharing.


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## MBfrontier

Thanks RandyM.


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## MBfrontier

In between cleaning and painting the larger parts I’ve been screwing around with some of the smaller stuff. The Logan nameplate had most of the paint off and you could hardly make out any of the printing. I cleaned it up the best I could and picked up a bottle of black and a bottle of red Testor’s model paint and painted the top and bottom parts of the nameplate red and the middle black. Since the writing is raised I just painted over everything. Then I wet sanded the paint off the raised sections and it seemed to come out pretty nice.




Unfortunately, when I sprayed a little clear on the plate it seemed to lift some of the color. I’m letting it dry completely to see if wet sanding will clean it back up.


Also, I was missing a way wiper on the carriage and didn’t want to buy a whole set to replace one wiper. It’s a principle thing I’m sure most of you will understand. Anyway, I measured the other wiper I had and made a pattern to cut some sheet metal. After cutting I bent the sides and TIG welded the corner. Cheater lenses come in very handy for old eyes here. I spent more time on this than one would imagine. The one on the left is the one I made and the one on the right was the original. Small victories…………….




I was able to install the saddle after completely disassembling, cleaning and painting. The rear gib has three bolts that install through the gib and into the bottom of the saddle. The front gib has two screws that install through the top of the saddle, through two spacers and into the gib. If I completely tighten any of these bolts or screws I can lock the gib up on the bed. I was thinking it might be better to work with some shim stock to get it right completely tightened but I’m not sure it would be worth the time and effort. I tightened each bolt and screw separately until the saddle locked up then backed off until it moved. I’d appreciate any opinions on using shim stock on this.



That's it for now.
Mike B.


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## Redlineman

Cool;

It's the details that make it yours. Nice work on the wiper frame and nameplate. Its so rare to see these early marquis type plates. Most you see are the later "Tombstone" type from what I call the "serial production" 200s. I wish mine looked as good as yours. I wish someone made new ones, but then they likely would not do our early versions.

I did not fiddle with my saddle that much. Got it so there was no play and let it go at that. The real revelation was driving the rack -vs by hand. 
It may be something I revisit, but I'd probably fiddle with the cross slide and compound first. I'm sure a lot of things will need jiggering when I actually get to running it.

Keep up the good work, Mike!


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## TomKro

That Logan is looking good.
Really a nice job.


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## MBfrontier

Thanks, TomKro.


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## MBfrontier

I assembled the cross slide and compound rest to the carriage. Nothing remarkable to note here as the assembly is straight forward. I did spend a little time adjusting the gibs to try and get it just right. I never seem to be satisfied with the adjustment. It seems that there is a fine line between taking as much of the play out as possible while maintain smooth movement. I have no experience with scraping parts but I suspect someone with scraping experience could improve the movement and accuracy of my cross slide and compound rest. Maybe something I will pursue at a later date.




Next, I disassembled the apron. Here’s the apron before starting disassembly.




I removed the hand wheel and pinion gear by removing the nut that attaches the handle to the pinion gear and tapping the pinion shaft out.




I removed the rack pinion gear assembly by removing the nut and tapping the pinion shaft out of the apron casting.




I removed the miter gear assembly by removing the bolt.




I removed the idler shift gear and shifter shaft by removing the lock screw and jam nut. The lock screw limits the amount of travel when the shifter shaft is pulled out and is located in the top of the boss on the other side of the apron.




I removed the shift pinion and stud by removing the jam nut on the outside of the apron.




Finally, I removed the half nut assembly by driving the pin out of the lever and cam shaft and removing the four mounting bolts from the half nut plate.




As I suspected, the half nuts are severely worn. You can see how much of the thread is worn away in the picture.




I’ll be investigating getting the half nuts refurbished. I don’t know how much single point threading I’ll be doing but it would be nice to have the ability. Actually, I haven’t done any single point threading since I was in high school machine shop soooo long ago so I’m looking forward to relearning.


The apron casting, hand wheel, and half nut lever have been cleaned up and painted so I’m waiting for the paint to dry.


The main reason I put this pictorial together is to have it for my reference when I put the parts back together. The assembly is simple but it will help me for sure and I hope it might help someone else. I know there are a lot of pictures here so I hope most won’t have a bandwidth issue.


That’s it for now.

Mike B.


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## Redlineman

Ahhhhh.... you just wanted to show off your meticulous skills a little. ;-). You will very likely appreciate that you've done this expose when you go to put it back together. As straight forward as it seems right now, it is amazing how lost you feel in terms of detail and nuance when it comes time to put it back together. There seems to be no end to the questions i seem to come up with when i go to do something period. A couple of times I have gotten lucky and found answers in photographs I took for a completely different reason. Bottom line, you can never take too many pics, and I even encourage people to take notes.


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## TomKro

Did you buy or make those thumbscrews for your dials? 
Nice addition.


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## MBfrontier

Redlineman, the sooner I start to reassemble the better off I am. The appropriate apron parts are painted so reassembly can begin once they have completely dried. I may stick them in the oven for a little while to coax them along. I purchased a used half nut so I suspect it'll be about a week before that is delivered.

Oh, my meticulous bikini and thong judging skills are much better.

TomKro, I picked up those thumbscrews at Home Depot. Here is the link:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...s-3-Pack-99188/203537753?keyword=030699991884


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## Marvelicious

Wow, that is coming out amazing.  Nice work.


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## MBfrontier

Thanks, Marvelicious.


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## MBfrontier

After cleaning, painting, and lubricating the apron parts, I assembled them in the reverse order of taking them apart.







I assembled the apron to the carriage with the two allen head bolts.



The threading dial was attached to the apron with the single mounting screw. It should be taken apart, cleaned, and oiled but I decided to oil it for now. It seems to hang up a little when you spin it by hand. Nothing terrible and I know it works. I'm not sure how it comes apart but it looks like the shaft may be peened over at the dial. I am concerned that I would screw it up if I try to take it apart.

That's it for now.


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## Redlineman

Looks Factory, Mike;

Gotta get me one of those threading dials. One of the many things missing from mine. Easy enough to tweak on it anytime you feel like it. Bigger picture stuff takes precedence now. Priorities.

Reporting Live from Brockville, Ontario.


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## Fairbanks

Great job Mike!
I have the same machine and just finished a complete strip down, cleaning and re-assembly.  New spindle bearings and a serpentine belt have been the only upgrades so far.  I kept the original "patina," not sure I have the patience for a strip and repaint!

Steve


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## MBfrontier

Thanks, Steve and Redlineman.

I haven't been looking for a threading dial but I'm sure you'll be able to find one. I don't know about the price.

Stripping and painting sure does slow things down. With the cold weather it takes a few days for the paint to dry before I can start to assemble parts. My building is heated but I only run the heater while I am out there working.

I decided to take the plunge because the lathe had several coats of paint on areas that were easy to get to with the lathe assembled and looked poorly done. I would have preferred to retain the original patina if it looked decent. The main thing is if the machine runs well and is accurate regardless of how good it looks.

I still have the lead screw, tail stock, and drive box assemblies to clean, paint and assemble. I'm hoping to have my project done soon barring any surprises.


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## Redlineman

I just snagged a dial yesterday for $45, which I thought was reasonable. Hopefully it is as decent as it looks in the pics. Perhaps the worst case is it might need new bushings.

The drive box is arguably the fussiest part of the early models like ours. Then, perhaps that is just an impression based on the fact that I assumed it would be a no brainer. It took some time to realize that the countershaft bearing assemblies need light adjustment of the set screws to remain free turning. It suddenly occurs to me that this might explain some of the extreme wear that some of them show. I by no means set them hard, and still had to back them off to a surprising degree to free them up. Another thing that occurred to me much later is that the propensity for the bracket LA-353 to be broken shows that it is all too common for the set screws to be over tightened. Mine had been broken and welded at some point. I could think of no other way this might be broken until it occurred to me that it was likely related to this light adjustment.

Just food for thought.


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## gjmontll

Beautiful job you're doing! Many of your topics mirror the ones I had to address in my Logan 820 restoration, right down to making two replacements for missing way wiper covers. (I soldered or brazed mine.)


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## MBfrontier

Thanks, gjmontll.

Redlineman, sounds like a good score on the threading dial. If it is similar to mine I'd be interested in how you get it apart.

Before I started the teardown I addressed the countershaft by replacing the shaft and oilite bearings. I adjusted my forks by lightly tightening the screws to take out the play between the bearing caps and the adjustment screws and then tightened the lock nuts while holding the screw position with a wrench. Early on before I replaced the countershaft and bushings I tried tightening the adjustment screws and by luck noticed that there was drag on the countershaft when I spun it by hand. I was not aware that people were breaking their forks until recently but it makes sense. Fortunately, I can see no break anywhere on mine.


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## Redlineman

Taking a cue from the parts diagram, it appears both ends of thread dial shaft LA-323 are knurled, making the dial and gear a press fit. I would imagine that any removal of either would probably require peining, staking, or thread locker to hold them in place again.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Reporting Live from Brockville, Ontario.


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## MBfrontier

Today I assembled the lead screw assembly and gear case covers.













Before I called it a day in the shop I disassembled the tail stock which I'll be cleaning and painting. Disassembly was simple and straight forward.

That's it for now.


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## MBfrontier

Redlineman, I think you're right on disassembling the threading dial. Since mine spins I oiled it up and called it good for now. I'll be watching your posts to see if you take it apart. If your threading dial arrives and spins smooth, I'd leave it alone.


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## MBfrontier

Today I assembled the tail stock and put it on the lathe. I aligned the stamped indicator marks on the base and housing and called it good for now. I'll fine tune it with a test bar when I get the lathe running.




Next, I installed the name plate and temporarily installed the switch plate with only two screws to see what they look like.

First, I'll say I have zero experience restoring name plates. On the name plate, I cleaned the plate with lacquer thinner, used Testor's model paint, and painted the red and black bars. Then, I wet sanded the paint until the raised letters and marks appeared. I then tried to spray clear over the top which turned out to be a mistake. The clear lifted the colors below. I left it to dry completely while I worked on other parts. I wet sanded the wrinkles, rubbed with some polishing compound, and applied some car wax. I could have completely stripped it with lacquer thinner and started over but that aint gonna happen. I'm calling it good.

I cleaned the switch plate the with lacquer thinner and this time sprayed it with Rustoleum black. I sprayed enough to cover the plate but not too much so it wouldn't build up and/or run. I let it dry a couple days and baked it at 12o degrees for 20 minutes. I lightly wet sanded until the raised letters and borders were clean, used polishing compound to finish it before using a little car wax. No clear this time. I think it came out much better and wish I would have done the name plate the same way. Lesson learned. The little bit of exposed brass around the switch hole is covered by the switch retaining ring. I hope this helps anyone else who tries to do this. Forget the model paint and clear and use the rattle cans.




I think it's safe to say I'm done with name and switch plates and will start on the reverse shifter and motor and countershaft box next.

That's it for now.


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## mrbreezeet1

Looks Great, OK, time for a electric powered lead screw.


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## MBfrontier

I disassembled, cleaned, blasted, and painted the reverse gear assembly and change gear assembly. I cleaned the gears and sprayed them with Maxima Chain Wax Lubricant which is used to lubricate motorcycle chains. I read about using it on gears somewhere on this website and thought I would give it a try. I also sprayed it on the bull gear, cone pulley gear, and back gears. I've used it before on my motorcycle chains and found the wax keeps it from slinging off of the chain so I'll find out how it works on the gears when I get the lathe running. Here's a picture of the completed gear box.



Next, on to the countershaft and motor box.

That's it for now.


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## Redlineman

Where's the drama. We need drama here. You're just FLYING through this rebuild. Guess that's how it is when you solve all your problems FIRST.


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## MBfrontier

Hey, Redlineman.
I don't think I had nearly the amount of broken or missing parts that you had to deal with on your rebuild. I'll be happy without any drama the rest of the way. The interesting part for me will come when I plug it in and begin to run it.


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## MBfrontier

I have been working on the drive box assembly and was finally able to start assembling yesterday. I started by assembling the drive box frame to the motor box frame. Then I installed the peg leg to the motor box frame and attached the drive box to the lathe by inserting the two pins through the drive box mounting holes into the grommets in the headstock mounting brackets. I placed a 1 inch rubber pad and a block of wood on top on the floor for the peg leg to set on. I had to add the block of wood to account for the lathe height increase of the adjustable carriage bolts I'm using to level the lathe. I'll make a suitable base once I get the lathe back up and running.





I tightened the countershaft bracket adjustment screws by hand to square the countershaft pulley to the side of the drive box frame and take out any play between the bearing caps and the adjustment screws. I held the screws with a wrench while tightening the jam nuts to make sure the screws stayed put and didn't turn to apply more pressure to the bearing caps. I checked to make sure the countershaft spun free with no additional drag from the bearing caps by spinning the countershaft by hand. I had to position the serpentine belt to try to avoid drag and the linked belt was not installed at the time.



I installed a new 3/4 HP Grizzly TEFC Motor wired for 110 volts. I investigated many motors and liked the reviews and price on this motor that I found online. I sorted out the wiring for the motor and drum switch on the bench and drew up a wiring diagram for documentation so I would be able to get the wiring right when installing and wiring the parts on the lathe. I positioned the motor on the motor bracket and made four one inch spacers to raise the motor so the wiring box on the back of the motor would clear the motor bracket adjustment screw and casting. I was able to compensate by removing two links from the drive belt to account for the increase in motor height. I adjusted the motor position to align the pulley as best I could with the countershaft by moving the motor left and right on the bracket and using washers as shims between the spacers and motor bracket. Earlier, I had the pulley machined from 1/2 inch to 5/8 inch and a 3/16 keyway to fit this motor. I finalized the new 14 gauge wiring on the motor but won't be able to get it hooked up and running until I finish rehabbing the drum switch.



I'll be finishing the drum switch rehab and cleaning, stripping, and painting the drive box cover and guard frame. I'm getting close to finishing.

That's it for now.


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## gjmontll

Still looking flawless! 
When I did my 820 restoration, I also added an adjustable leveler to the pegleg. Having the pegleg too high or low does affect the overall alignment. And it definitely affects getting the belt/gear cover to close properly. 
    Greg


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## Redlineman

Humph...

I wish at the time I was adding leveling pads to the lathe that I had thought to weld a nut in the end of the peg leg and buy a fifth pad. Stupid oversight. Then again, perhaps all is not lost. I have been considering making some sort pad with a spring to further reduce vibration from the motor. We'll see.

Looks great, Mike!


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## MBfrontier

Thanks gjmontll and Redlinaman.

Yesterday afternoon I finished up the drum switch and completed the wiring for the motor eliminating the toggle switch in the headstock from the circuit. I mounted the drum switch on the left leg where it was when I purchased the lathe.



With the old motor the lathe was set up with the drum switch on the leg and the toggle switch in the headstock. I operated the lathe by selecting the rotation forward or reverse on the drum switch and turning the lathe on and off at the toggle switch. Initially, I tried wiring the new motor by splitting one of the power leads from the drum switch and routing it through the toggle switch to the motor. With the toggle switch off I switched the drum switch on and heard the motor begin to hum. However, when I flipped the toggle switch to the on position and switched the drum switch to the forward position the motor ran fine but wouldn't properly shut off at the toggle switch. This is getting beyond my electrical skills so I decided to eliminate the toggle switch for now. It was convenient to be able to turn the lathe on and off at the toggle switch on the headstock especially if I got myself into trouble and needed to switch the lathe off in an emergency. The drum switch on the leg is not as easy to get to. I'll have to investigate further to see if there is a solution. If not, I'll use the drum switch and forget about the toggle switch.

Nice looking toggle switch but I may end up removing the switch and put a plastic plug in the hole.



Last evening, after eliminating the toggle switch, I was able to run the lathe. After adjusting some gears for lash and adjusting the countershaft and cone pulley to center the serpentine belt I am happy, happy, happy. The lathe has never run this smooth and quiet since I have owned it. I ran it in forward and reverse, feeds engaged and disengaged, back gears engaged and disengaged, and the serpentine belt in all three positions. There was a little noise while running in back gears so I may have to reset the lash at the shifter but it is minor.

That's it for now.


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## MBfrontier

I am posting the information on my motor and drum switch in the hope someone will have a suggestion on how I can wire my motor, drum switch, and toggle switch so I can position the drum switch in fwd or rev and use the toggle switch to turn the lathe on and off.

Here's a little more info from an earlier post:
With the old motor the lathe was set up with the drum switch on the leg and the toggle switch in the headstock. I operated the lathe by selecting the rotation forward or reverse on the drum switch and turning the lathe on and off at the toggle switch. Initially, I tried wiring the new motor by splitting one of the power leads from the drum switch and routing it through the toggle switch to the motor. With the toggle switch off I switched the drum switch on and heard the motor begin to hum. Also, when I flipped the toggle switch to the on position and switched the drum switch to the forward position the motor ran fine but wouldn't properly shut off at the toggle switch and continued to rotate in a jerky fashion.

Here's the motor wiring diagram:



Here's the switch diagram:





Here is the diagram of how I had the wiring with the toggle switch:


Any input on how to wire this to make it work properly would be greatly appreciated.


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## Redlineman

Good News, Mike!

The toggle switch is probably too convenient. It is in a great spot to turn it off in a pinch without having to reach over the lathe or under something where you might miss, but also to bump it by accident, and it can be in the way for carriage stops and such. I will probably wire it to work because that's how it came, and that's how I am, but I will take moving it under advisement right from the start. I have in my mind that I don't think I care for the later guard frame mounting of the drum switch. We shall see.

Now you will be loving the back gear shaft slot mod! I got mine adjusted really well and the back gears make little more noise than without them engaged. Chips are coming very soon!!


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## MBfrontier

Hey, Redlineman.

Glad to hear you are making good progress. I'll be watching to see when you start making chips.

I will either get the toggle switch working with my drum switch or I'll move the drum switch somewhere? Hopefully, someone can get me pointed in the right direction with the wiring if possible.


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## Redlineman

Well...

I actually haven't been making any progress at all. Too many projects and now its busy season again. Electrics and I don't get along so well, so I'm no help there for sure. I can probably manage to get the toggle switch wired, but that's about it.


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## wa5cab

Mike,

You need to run the line to the toggle switch first, then the the drum switch.  In other words, the switch needs to be in the black line wire going to drum switch terminal 1 (top left as drawn).  With it wired as shown, when you turn the toggle switch off, you still have line voltage on the start winding, so if the motor is already running with minimum load on it, it would slow down until the centrifugal switch closed and then try to speed back up but probably never get going fast enough to open the switch again.  And in a few tens of seconds, you would start smelling smoke.


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## MBfrontier

Thank you, Robert (wa5cab).

I will try that tomorrow and see how it works.


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## MBfrontier

wa5cab said:


> Mike,
> 
> You need to run the line to the toggle switch first, then the the drum switch.  In other words, the switch needs to be in the black line wire going to drum switch terminal 1 (top left as drawn).  With it wired as shown, when you turn the toggle switch off, you still have line voltage on the start winding, so if the motor is already running with minimum load on it, it would slow down until the centrifugal switch closed and then try to speed back up but probably never get going fast enough to open the switch again.  And in a few tens of seconds, you would start smelling smoke.



Hey, Robert D. (wa5cab)
Thanks for reviewing my info in post #59 and responding with the right answer. I changed the wiring so the toggle switch was wired to the power line in black lead going to terminal #1 on the drum switch and everything works as it should. I really appreciate your help. Your response really made sense to me when I thought about it but I couldn't figure it out on my own with my limited electrical ability. Best regards.


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## wa5cab

You're welcome.


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## MBfrontier

Here is the updated schematic for the Grizzly G2530 Motor wiring that works with a drum switch and a toggle switch.


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## MBfrontier

Yesterday, while waiting for the paint to dry on my guard frame and drive box cover I decided to clean up my change gears. I cleaned them in the parts washer and then used a wire brush by hand and sprayed them with chain lube to keep them from developing rust.



This morning I removed the reverse gear assembly and the back gear shifter rack to readjust the back gear engagement to eliminate the noise I heard when engaged. I thought I may have the engagement adjusted too tight and that turned out to be the case. I set the adjustment so there was a tiny bit of lash in the gears and that turned out to be good and quiet when running.

This afternoon I assembled the drive box cover and the guard frame and door. I ordered two rubber bumpers for the drive box cover but they haven't arrived yet so I'll install them when they get here. They just push into the two holes that are in the bottom front of the drive box cover. I was going to come up with a different way to latch the door but ended up using the original spring steel latch to get it back together today. I may end up changing the latch in the future.









Needless to say, I am very happy this project is progressing to completion. It was nice to have the drive box cover back in place to be able to run the lathe without having to use a screwdriver to try and tighten the belt while test running after making adjustments.

I am planning on doing something with the peg leg so it is adjustable and that will eliminate the block of wood I temporarily installed to raise the unit so it was level. The pipe is even with the top of the casting and would barely be locked in place by the bottom set screw without another solution. I liked Redlineman's comment about welding a nut on the bottom of the leg and using a screw to be able to adjust it.

Also, I will be making a test bar to align the tail stock with the spindle.

Other than that I think I will be up and running as long as Murphy stays away.

That's it for now.


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## eeler1

Dang, sure is pretty, nice work


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## MBfrontier

Thanks, eeler1.


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## Redlineman

You are my hero, Mike!


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## MBfrontier

Thanks, Redlineman, I think.


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## RandyM

Looking good! Now you need to get her dirty.


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## MBfrontier

Thanks, RandyM.

It'll get dirty as soon as the way wipers are back on. I just picked up some felt from HD this morning to cut to size and replace the old felts.


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## MBfrontier

Well, the lathe is back up and running and looks good. However, I am experiencing a large amount of chatter. Before I disassembled everything for the rehab I would get chatter on mild steel bar when I tried to take a cut deeper than 10 thousandths. Now it seems to chatter even on lighter cuts. To troubleshoot the problem I tightened the gibs on the compound rest, cross slide, and carriage and locked the carriage and tried light facing cuts on mild steel bar mounted in the new 3 jaw chuck with short stick-out and still experienced chatter. The only thing left (I think) unfortunately are the spindle bearings. I also found the large spindle bearing with the snap ring did have some drag in a few places after I removed it and checked it after I removed it from the spindle. I bit the bullet and ordered a new set of spindle bearings. It'll be a few weeks before they arrive so I'll post an update after they arrive and are installed.

While discussing with Scott Logan, he said the end bearing cap should have a one to two thousandth gap between the end bearing cap base and the headstock casting when the three retaining screws are tightened. That's what makes sure the bearing snap ring is pressed firmly against the headstock  and the outer race is pressed firmly against the inside surface of the end bearing cap. If I don't have that gap I'll use either shim stock or have the end bearing cap base milled.

So, Murphy showed up at what I thought would be the end of this project.

The bearings that were on the spindle are:
Front: New Departure 5207 W (Inner Race) *4*5507 Bearing Shield (Other Side)
                                                                                 The "4" was marked with an engraving tool.
Rear: New Departure 43206 (Inner Race) Shielded Bearing 77506 (On Shield)


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## MBfrontier

Good news. The spindle bearings should be delivered by UPS on Tuesday, May 19,2015.


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## baires2000

you did a nice job of restoration . I congratulate you. It gives me courage to start the same with my logan 820


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## MBfrontier

Thank you baires2000. Good luck with the work on your Logan 820.


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## Redlineman

Waiting semi patiently to see how you make out after the bearing replacement....


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## MBfrontier

Well, just as my spindle bearings arrived another project took over but I managed to get the bearings installed the day after they arrived. After installation I was still getting chatter but not as bad. After changing the carbide insert on my tool holder and sharpening the high speed steel turning bit life is good.

Here is a picture of a mild steel rod I turned with the larger two diameters on the left showing the chatter I was getting before the bearing change and the smallest diameter on the right after the bearings were changed and a new carbide insert on the tool holder.



Here is a picture of the mild steel bar I was turning today after a finish cut with the carbide bit.



Here is a picture of the mild steel bar I was turning today after a finish cut with the high speed steel bit.



In conclusion, I may have been able to get acceptable results without purchasing new bearings but now I'll never know. I can positively say the lathe runs significantly more quiet than it did with the old bearings after the rehab. Therefore, it must be a contribution to a smoother and chatter-free cut. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

That's it for now.


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## Redlineman

I agree with your final assessment. Not knowing what you were cutting with, I was tempted to offer that you might want to visit your cutting tool geometry before spending all that bearing money. Carbides are no free lunch either on small machines, and can often be a problem themselves unless one has the right tool architecture. As most carbide tooling is made for negative rake, high feed & speed, they can be pretty marginal on our little buggers. The key was that it also ran quieter. That is a hard thing to determine unless you know from experience how quiet they SHOULD be, but to notice a large improvement there proves your surmise was correct.

Congratulations Mike. Your surface finish looks VERY nice!


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## aeroHAWK

Carbide inserts have a nice radius on the point of the tool, which can be problematic with light duty machines. For larger, more rigid machines, this contributes to a nice surface finish. But for these smaller ones, it can be a bear for chatter. I think you are going to be much happier with high speed steel, since you can control and experiment with tool geometry.

With carbide, you will want to turn up the rpm pretty high - maybe higher than you may think, and the chips should come off the part very hot (blue). If your test didn't produce this, you may want to do more experimenting.

I agree though, if you notice a difference in how quiet the lathe is, the new bearings are a good thing!


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## TomKro

You did a beautiful job on the machine.  It's really inspiring some of us slower folks. 
Glad to see it cut so smooth/clean.
If you get a chance, keep us appraised as to how that chain wax work out on the gears.


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## MBfrontier

Thanks for the positive replies.

The chain wax has been working fine. I did add a few drops of Bel-Ray synthetic gear lube to make sure there is lube available to the gear teeth if and when the wax wears off. I like the chain wax for its' anti-rust properties as well as lubrication. I had read about others that feel it makes the gears run more quiet but it seems that the gear lash has a greater effect on how loud or quiet my gears run. I am planning on touching up the lube on the teeth of the gears periodically with the Bel-Ray synthetic gear lube. I will revisit this subject again after I have run the lathe for a longer period.

Currently, I am trying to improve my HSS tool bit grinding skills. It reminds me of learning to TIG weld. The only way you learn is to get in there and learn from your mistakes along the way. I have had some success with grinding and honing right hand turning bits that produce nice finishes on mild steel as shown in my previous picture. Luckily, HSS bits are still relatively inexpensive so I can ruin as many as I want without a major financial impact.

That's it for now.


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## aeroHAWK

Mike,

I'm glad to hear you are experimenting with grinding HSS tool bits. I believe this is something missing in the education of hobby machinists (and maybe even machinists in general). With all the different carbide tools available, it seems they are used for everything. Back in the day, the first thing an apprentice machinist had to do was grind up a few tools to use. I believe it helps give a sense of what is really happening at the cutting edge. This is a very useful basic understanding.

Another thing you may want to try is, instead of using 1018 mild steel, get 12L14 ledloy. It machines so much nicer than 1018 and it is easier to get a good surface finish. I have switched to 12L14 and won't go back.


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## MBfrontier

Hey, thanks Aerohawk.

I'm not sure if my steel supplier has anything other than 1018 mild steel. I recently purchased 4 "drops" of 1018 round bar to begin testing and adjusting with when I figured I was nearing completion on my lathe before I went the extra step with the two spindle bearings. I'll have to check and see what else they have available the next time I'm there.


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## Redlineman

Right on Aerohawk;

Tool bit geo is critical. I've learned that much. HSS is the way to go on these machines in most cases. Carbide is misapplied in many instances, and can lead to frustration. 12L-14 - and a lot of others - definitely turns better than 1018. Tom Griffin on YouTube does a nice job showing the grinding process in his videos. They are worth a close look, especially for we visual learners. Almost like having a mentor standing over your shoulder.


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## MBfrontier

After watching his videos, I've been using Tom's drawings for turning and facing tools to reference the geometry when I'm grinding. They have been very helpful. They are available at tomstechniques.com.


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## MBfrontier

Here's a picture of the first actual part for my lathe that I made since the lathe has been completed. It's the rear spindle collar that I'll be using on a future lathe upgrade. It's nice to finally be able to make parts.



That's it for now.


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## wa5cab

Very nice finish.


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## MBfrontier

Thanks, wa5cab.


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## MBfrontier

Although I was pleased with the finish on my parts after new spindle bearings and sharp tooling I felt that I should be able to remove more material in a single cut without chatter. I remembered running into a thread on another website where someone added a bearing and Belleville washers to the back of the headstock to preload the front spindle bearing to address chatter. After a lot of searching I was finally able to find the thread I was looking for. Full disclosure, I claim no credit for this modification and thank the OP for emailing me a copy of his documentation on this modification.

The modification is a 6007 series sealed bearing with a snap ring added to the end of the headstock with Belleville washers (I used (qty 8) part # 94065K85 from McMaster-Carr) between the rear spindle spacer and the added 6007 bearing. There are 5 Belleville washers in each pack and I ordered 2 packs. The OP bought from MSC part # 87780730 for a qty. of 10 at half the price but they were out of stock with 8+ week lead time. The 6007 bearing has a larger ID so the inner race of the bearing doesn't touch the spindle and its' only purpose is to preload the front bearing and the OD is the same as the rear spindle bearing. The original rear spindle bearing remains in the headstock. I had to remove .050 in. from the inner spindle spacer to provide clearance so the two bearings would not touch each other (Yet another removal and reinstall of the spindle). The rear spindle spacer has to be modified so the end tightens to the inner race of the original bearing and the shoulder tightens the Belleville washers against the inner race of the added 6007 bearing to add preload. This required removing material from the shoulder of the outer rear spindle spacer to allow room for the Belleville washers. The spacers on my lathe must have been made during an earlier mod because the rear spindle keyway was partly covered by the rear spindle spacer so spacers on other lathes may be different sizes. The washers are in this configuration <<<<>>>> and they are touching at the OD and a space at the ID.

Here's a picture showing the washer orientation.



The original author of this mod used a v-block clamped to the spindle with a cutter clamped to the v-block to cut a landing for the bearing snap ring that is perpendicular to the spindle. I don't have a v-block so I made a tool that worked pretty well. It consists of a piece of angle iron with a block welded to it that I clamped one of my tool holders to. I clamped this tool to the spindle with a hose clamp to cut the snap ring landing using a flat cobalt cutting bit. Here's some pictures of it.





Here's a picture of the tool with the QCTP tool holder and cutting bit clamped to the spindle while cutting the landing by turning the chuck by hand and tapping the tool with a hammer at the low spot to move the cutter in. I used a piece of masking tape to protect the spindle.


As you can see the set screws on the left of the tool holder are clamped to the tool and the set screws on the right hold the flat cutting bit. I took enough material off the headstock until the cutting bit just touched the low spot.

I made a spare rear spindle spacer to swap out with the original while I trial fitted the Belleville washers to what I thought would be the right amount of preload. I started fitting six washers by removing material from the rear spindle spacer shoulder to allow the washers to be compressed without bottoming out. This took several attempts before I ended up with 8 washers. I spun the spindle by hand until it had a slight drag from spinning free (Kentucky windage I guess). 



Here's a picture of the added bearing with 8 Belleville washers completed.



Here's a picture of where I removed material from the rear spindle spacer to make room for the washers.


This total mod cost me in the $50.00 range and has been an improvement in the depth of cut chatter free operation. It doesn't turn the lathe into a one ton machine but there was improvement on my machine. I have made .020 in. cuts with good results after this mod. Your mileage may vary.

I purposely kept the OP's name and userID out of this write-up because I feel I don't have any right to speak for or imply any intent of the person responsible for developing and documenting this mod. My only contribution was making my own holder for cutting the landing on the headstock. If anyone would like to contact the OP for a copy of his write-up you can send me a PM and I will give you the link.

That's it for now.


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## Redlineman

Shazzam!

Nice work, Mike!!! This is the same mod I reference in my rehab thread, undoubtedly by the same crafty gent. 

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/redlinemans-logan-200-rescue.17903/    Post #3.

I took the trouble to machine the drive end of my headstock while I had it all apart, as depicted therein. It would be neat if you could use your vast CAD skills to whip up a drawing of the modification (with part references) for those of us who like to look at drawings. I take the liberty of assuming for you those vast skills. I hope I am not being presumptuous, and would be glad to assist in the drawing regard if I have been!

I might wager that everyone doing a rebuild might just as well plan on this mod right from the get go. Can't hurt.

Bravo!


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## MBfrontier

Hey, Redlineman. Sorry, ProEngineer with parametric design, 3D modeling, finite element analysis, and selective laser sintering would be no help to my drawing abilities.  The last time I did any real dimensional drawings (not a stick figure sketch on a napkin) was in the last century in high school.



Redlineman said:


> I took the trouble to machine the drive end of my headstock while I had it all apart, as depicted therein.


The milling on your headstock looks very nice. Certainly, the time to do it is when everything is apart the first time.

FWIW, there isn't much clearance between the added bearing and the spindle bearing. Before I cut the snap ring landing I measured into the rear bearing bore on the headstock to the outer race of the spindle bearing and determined I would have approx. .020 in. clearance between the two bearings so I thought the clearance between the bearings would be adequate. That changed when I had to remove more than .020 in. to have a flat snap ring landing all the way around the rear bearing bore. I removed approx. .035 in. on the front portion of the bearing bore boss before the cutter revealed it was scraping the back portion. That's what caused me to remove the inner spindle spacer to take off .050 in. which moved the rear spindle bearing in enough for clearance. Any more than that would have bumped up against one of the steps on the spindle. I'm not sure if the inner spindle bearing was made by someone other than factory. Worst case scenario would have been to make a washer to space the added bearing out enough to clear the inner bearing.  Fortunately, I didn't have to do that. There's not a lot of room to play with. If you didn't take much off the rear of your head stock you should be OK.


Redlineman said:


> I might wager that everyone doing a rebuild might just as well plan on this mod right from the get go. Can't hurt.


I agree if there isn't much material that is removed to get a flat surface. Over .035 may be a problem.

Last night I had a dream about a VFD and 3 phase motor. Maybe it was a nightmare.

That's it for now.


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## MBfrontier

Correction, in my last post I said :


MBfrontier said:


> I'm not sure if the inner spindle bearing was made by someone other than factory.


I meant to say:
I'm not sure if the inner spindle spacer was made by someone other than factory.


----------

