# Doall Dgp-24 Drill Press -worn Plastic Cam.    West Epoxy?  Jbweld?



## countryguy (Jun 10, 2016)

Picked up a winner w/ a possible easy-fix!   Two speeds on this DoAll DGP-24 do not work.  They are both related to the worn CAM end shown in the pictures below.  Seller thought it had a broken gear.... 3 franklins + I move it out made it mine.     Love this stuff! 

Should be an easy fix if I can get something to fill in the Divot, stick, and take lube.   The rod that the cam pushes down does spin while in contact w/ the plastic cam.    I have a feeling it was just left in that speed since the 80's? 

Do we have JBWeld believers?   I do have the West epoxy System which I could mix up too.    Or?  what else could I do to fill in the two divots on each plastic CAM point.   Two of them are 1/8"-3/16" or so worn.

I did confirm this will fix the missing two speeds by just putting a shim between the pin and cam... Bingo! 
 Whatever I fill in w/ will need to be oiled and take a bit of punishment.  

I could make a new plastic CAM on the CNC Mill, but then I'll need to rip and replace.  Want to try epoxy maybe as this is a home/hobby drill setup.  Not a full time thing.


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## 47convertible (Jun 10, 2016)

Heck of a buy on a geared DP with power downfeed. 
What about drilling the worn spots to size and putting in pushrod ends out of a junk engine. They are hardened and will take a heck of a beating plus shafts are hollow and some really heavy gear oil put up in there might last for quite a while to help lube it. All could be done from the open face of the DP case.
Jerry


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## countryguy (Jun 10, 2016)

I was thinking the same thing... Drill it and put in something non-plastic.  Thank for the idea of yours!     It does need to glide in/out of cam position when rotated, so a little grinding work there should get it done.    Anyway, I could not wait-  I put in the JB weld.  (I am still a newb technically LOL).  If it does not stick and take lube, I'll just remove it and machine a new cam from something.  Everyting else will last 40 more years on this thing-  May as well make a set of cams to keep up.   We'll see.


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## Bob Korves (Jun 10, 2016)

I cannot see the design of the cam very well, but if it is not too complicated you could make one out of something like O-1 tool steel, harden it, and never worry about it again.  Ever.  More complicated shapes could be done by someone with a CNC mill.  You might even find someone on this forum interested in helping you out.


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## RCWorks (Jun 10, 2016)

It doesn't look to hard to remove and make the part... Doing it right the first time means you don't have to do it again.

In the shop we have a saying... "Why is there never enough time to do it right but plenty of time to do it again?"


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## countryguy (Jun 10, 2016)

So so true!    Thanks for the nudge.


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## countryguy (Jun 10, 2016)

I will pull it out and make one!  Promise.    I wonder about wearing out the push rod part if I make the cam too hard?   The round push rob spins on the cam.   Should the cam be softer?       I posted thumbnails.  If you click the picture does it launch the full size image?     Thanks for the note.  Cg 



Bob Korves said:


> I cannot see the design of the cam very well, but if it is not too complicated you could make one out of something like O-1 tool steel, harden it, and never worry about it again.  Ever.  More complicated shapes could be done by someone with a CNC mill.  You might even find someone on this forum interested in helping you out.


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## countryguy (Jun 10, 2016)

Ok , so from the posts...  I will make a few cams on the cnc mill.    As I wondered above, do the new cams made of metal need to be softer than the push rod part (which spins)?  If I wear thAt down I think it will be a much worse problem.  
Thanks guys.    Jeff.


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## Bob Korves (Jun 11, 2016)

What are the spinning rods made of?  Are they glass hard, or relatively soft?  Steel or something else?  There are combinations that work well together, and others that do not...


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## Bob Korves (Jun 11, 2016)

Do-All is still in business.  You don't suppose they might still have parts for it, do you???  Maybe it could go another 30 or 40 years, maybe longer with some lubrication.
http://www.doall.com/dgisupply.aspx 
It is a long shot, but worth checking into...


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## chips&more (Jun 11, 2016)

I have not had any luck when trying to use glue or epoxy to repair plastics. If you have something spinning at the problem area. I would drill and thread that spot and insert a threaded brass plug. Make sure the threads you select, RH or LH, are going in the correct direction to insure it will screw in the brass plug and not unscrew it when you run the machine.


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## Steve Shannon (Jun 11, 2016)

I use epoxies and JB weld for many things, but I wouldn't for this.


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## jpfabricator (Jun 11, 2016)

If theres room use a metal hose clamp. Get one thats long enough to leave the most strip of stainless possible to cover the holes.

Sent from somewhere in East Texas by Jake Parker!


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## Billh50 (Jun 11, 2016)

Whenever you have the means to make something right it is better than using a bandaid. Bandaids do not last and are only used to make something work long enough to finish a job.


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## John Hasler (Jun 11, 2016)

I'd want to make a new cam out of the same type of plastic to avoid wearing out the cam follower.  If that cam has been in there since the 80s it's held up pretty well.  Nothing wrong with a wear part wearing out.  I'd rather have to replace that cam again in twenty years than have to replace the shaft that rides on it in five.

You might want to take a close look at the end of that shaft, too.


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## stonehands (Jun 13, 2016)

Just my 2c but the rod the cam works on is of a small diameter compared to the working surface of the cam. Couldn't you make a flat topped tappet for the rod that would ride on the entire surface of the existing cam? This will only work if there is an additional amount of travel in the rod to allow for the thickness of the tappet surface. This fix would make the cam life very long and a good polish on the tappet top would make the wear almost nil. I have a gear head Do-all drill press that the little b@$&%$#@ at the high school shifted while running and ate the fiber gear. I got the press for $100 ( the cost of the invertor box) and made a gear from delrin. Forget about factory parts for these, they don't seem to exist. BTW the press was less than a year old when they broke it , no drill damage to the table but they broke all of the oiler cups off in that short period. Good luck with your repair--David


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## countryguy (Jun 21, 2016)

Weird-  post from this morning not here?  quick update-  Been so busy past few weeks.  Did put in JBWeld on 1 cam as a test.  Stuck just fine.  But only 1 layer.  Needs a few more layers to build up the cam.   Said heck w/ this...Son sold me on a 3d Printer....  Yep.  I think it's time.  I could have had all 4 newly printed in Nylon and replaced by now.   He's a smart kid but it's always Dads wallet!    We are looking at the Lulzbot Taz6 : https://www.lulzbot.com/learn/announcements/announcing-lulzbot-taz-6 

Everyone have a great summer!!


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## countryguy (Jul 8, 2016)

I thought I would post a quick update.   There is a 3D printer in the house now.  I finished my very first Fusion 360 POC just to try and learn the autodesk app.   All I can say is "Wow"!  My son is big w/ Solidworks (as a design student) but I'm really impressed w/ Fusion360!
For a few quick lessson vids-  I went w/ the Fusion Friday youtube vids from NY-CNC   https://www.youtube.com/user/saunixcomp
It seems to be really popular w/ CNC and CAM ops w/ this guy.   I'll get into the dimensions and printing in a few weeks or so.


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## countryguy (Jul 16, 2016)

I finished the replacement gear in Fusion 360 last night.  I've 3D printed the replacement and am about to go put it on the shaft and reinstall into the DoAll.  I'm using a crafted filament call n-Gen.  The Nylon 6 that I tried to print is much harder to print with and I'll need to learn and experiment to get those settings down.   In the image, the White item is the Nylon 6(18) which started to curl and warp.  The original part is in the middle. 
  For now, the n-Gen gear in grey prints wonderfully in about 2hours as a "solid" part (no internal hollow areas).    I even added the hole and now do not even need to drill!  Gotta love this stuff.  
Few points-  
1- To go from Fusion360 to Cura (3d printing software totally free) is just a button click. Pic below. 
2- To make an actual engineering drawing in F360 is really easy!!!  Wow!  pic below) .
3-  Look out world!  
click on thumbnails to open into larger actual size pics.


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## JimDawson (Jul 16, 2016)

OK, I'm convinced, I need a 3D printer!  Very cool and saves a bunch of machining time.

Hmmmmm, I wonder if a router can double as a 3D printer.  Would be cool to have a 48x96x10 print area, and my router has two independent Z axis heads.  Need to look into print heads.


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## countryguy (Jul 16, 2016)

I remember your router pics.  That would be really cool!   Here are the lulzbot toolheads-  They can push the temps needed for all the crazy materials now.  Even have a dual extruder.  
https://www.lulzbot.com/store/tool-heads


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## JimDawson (Jul 16, 2016)

Great!  Another project to do.

Thanks for the link.!


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## countryguy (Jul 17, 2016)

The grey part done in a plastic broke as soon as I smacked it onto the shaft.   I did put a heft on it.  I knew I needed the nylon based cam.  
Filiment #3:  a type called alloy 910. 
http://taulman3d.com/910-features.html

The cam printed great in this material.  Finally installed and a wrap!


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## Silverbullet (Jul 19, 2016)

Just my 2 cents but I would have made it out of brass .


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## John Hasler (Jul 19, 2016)

Silverbullet said:


> Just my 2 cents but I would have made it out of brass .


You have a 3D printer that does brass?


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## Silverbullet (Jul 19, 2016)

Yes it's called a milling machine and a rotary table.  I doubt the cam made in the way that machine works will hold up very long. If it was made from brass it would last longer then the owner.


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## countryguy (Jul 23, 2016)

Ending this post-  Done, finito, Happy camper!  After the new nylon cam went in, it still did not work.   
30 hours later -  I pulled out most of the springs, pushrods, gears, and even more the Nylon push-rod parts.  Yep- Even more plastic parts in the bowels of the gear changing setup.    3D printer to the rescue again!  A worn heavily grooved dowel piece was .291 diameter by .75 tall in plastic.   Nice to just print that in like 10mins.   

Cleaned, greased, adjusted, loved..... Runs like a new machine.  Now I cannot wait to make holes in somethings  
If anyone ever picks up a DGP-24 unit, Ping me... Know em' inside and out now.  Whew! 

PS- enjoy the manual!  I've attached it here.


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## malmac (Jul 27, 2016)

I came looking for ideas on free CAD drawing software - Fusion360 - will investigate - just wanted to say - I don't own a 3D printer - and I can't see myself going that way anytime soon - but do admire the work you have done - I know that great feeling of making stuff work.


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## 2rods (Dec 3, 2017)

Hi countryguy. Manual doesn't seem to work for me. Can you send it to tworods@shaw.ca?


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## kd4gij (Dec 3, 2017)

It opened right up for me. Just need a pdf reader installed.


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## ebyer7 (Feb 11, 2018)

countryguy said:


> Ending this post-  Done, finito, Happy camper!  After the new nylon cam went in, it still did not work.
> 30 hours later -  I pulled out most of the springs, pushrods, gears, and even more the Nylon push-rod parts.  Yep- Even more plastic parts in the bowels of the gear changing setup.    3D printer to the rescue again!  A worn heavily grooved dowel piece was .291 diameter by .75 tall in plastic.   Nice to just print that in like 10mins.
> 
> Cleaned, greased, adjusted, loved..... Runs like a new machine.  Now I cannot wait to make holes in somethings
> ...


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## Silverbullet (Feb 11, 2018)

I wouldn't have thought all the plastic in a gear head. And the prices they charged even used. Think ill stick to belts unless it's old old iron.


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## magicniner (Feb 11, 2018)

Nice Job! 
Plastic in the right application gives good durability combined with almost zero wear on mating components, Nylon is a great fit for those parts and the beauty of 3D printing them is once they are right you can start a spare set printing and do something else. 
Once you get over the fascination of the 3D printer when it's running ;-)


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## ebyer7 (Feb 11, 2018)

picked up a dg-24 a couple of months ago. when i went to test it out i found that all of the speeds below 400 rpm do not work. Opened up the case to check for obvious problems and everything looks fine. that is when i found your post. same machine possibly same problem. before i start tearing it apart i thought i would reach out to you for advice. do all the pushrods stay in contact with the plastic cams at all times as you turn the speed dial? the very first one on the left is not in contact with the cam, when setting the speeds below 400 rpm. if i put a pry bar in there and push the rod down the spindle will connect but I'm not sure that is the way is is supposed to work . the cam doesn't look worn at all. you said in your post that there are balls and springs and whatever in there. i assume the ball is pushed into a area that locks the spindle but i cant tell from the drawing in the manual. anyway something is broke or sticking in there and it looks like a chore to get to. tried to take the speed selector knob off by pulling out the set screw but the knob won't budge.don't want to break it by prying , that is were i a'm at present, i thought i'd ask you since you've already done this. the manual doesn't explain how the gear shift mechanism works so it's hard to figure out what might be broken . your help would be greatly appreciated. thanks   pictures of the three cams, from left to right , with speed setting at 355 rpm


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## countryguy (Feb 12, 2018)

For fusion 360 tutorials I send everyone to CNC Jon.  WWW.nycnc.com   YouTube as nycnc channel.  You will not regret his free Fusion tutorials      best   jeff



malmac said:


> I came looking for ideas on free CAD drawing software - Fusion360 - will investigate - just wanted to say - I don't own a 3D printer - and I can't see myself going that way anytime soon - but do admire the work you have done - I know that great feeling of making stuff work.


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## countryguy (Feb 12, 2018)

ok   a pic below      1 arm in sling.   1 handed reply.   pardon brevity!     so my #3 does the same thing as your #1    Red circle is the part that will have a worn end keeping height off kilter.     I need to replace my 3D printed iten as I used a non nylon material befog I knew the 3D materials well enough.    nothing fancy   IU need to redo mine and will buy the right size nylon OD and cut to length    Use bottle jack for motor pull out to lower/raise  if you go in for other reasons  very heavy.    If you can get the piece out thru the top.... much easier now that I knew what the problem was.  After a full tear down to learn it, I think I'll try to pull the top Cam bar, pull the bearings, pull the rod out, and then try to get it out from above.  I think you cna come up via spindle for #1.    #2 is a screw from bottom... (never the easy one's is it)....  and my #3, if not from top, is a motor pull to pop it out from underneath.   










ebyer7 said:


> picked up a dg-24 a couple of months ago. when i went to test it out i found that all of the speeds below 400 rpm do not work. Opened up the case to check for obvious problems and everything looks fine. that is when i found your post. same machine possibly same problem. before i start tearing it apart i thought i would reach out to you for advice. do all the pushrods stay in contact with the plastic cams at all times as you turn the speed dial? the very first one on the left is not in contact with the cam, when setting the speeds below 400 rpm. if i put a pry bar in there and push the rod down the spindle will connect but I'm not sure that is the way is is supposed to work . the cam doesn't look worn at all. you said in your post that there are balls and springs and whatever in there. i assume the ball is pushed into a area that locks the spindle but i cant tell from the drawing in the manual. anyway something is broke or sticking in there and it looks like a chore to get to. tried to take the speed selector knob off by pulling out the set screw but the knob won't budge.don't want to break it by prying , that is were i a'm at present, i thought i'd ask you since you've already done this. the manual doesn't explain how the gear shift mechanism works so it's hard to figure out what might be broken . your help would be greatly appreciated. thanks   pictures of the three cams, from left to right , with speed setting at 355 rpm


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## middle.road (Feb 12, 2018)

Lordy, that looks like a diagram for the headstock of a lathe. And this is for a Drill Press?


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## countryguy (Feb 13, 2018)

Yeah , with auto down feed. low/high  fwd/rev, and spin wheel speed select.  Geared head. Built like a tank!!!! Just needs a better way with the nylon pieces.  if memory serves, around 5/16 OD and 3/4-1" long.  I have the one I took out still.    there are oil points at the very top.  They note to OIL Lightly every use or something like that.  Drips right down into this gear push rod assy.    anyway..... onward.   I love mine!!!


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## Surveywaters (Feb 8, 2019)

I am working on a Rockwell EFI-2, I believe it's the same unit. Thank you SO MUCH for the manual. Could you provide the lengths of those plastic pins? I have the worn pieces, but don't know how you calculated the original lengths. Also, any interest in making a few of those plastic cams for a fella?

I bought mine for $6 at an auction, that's not a typo. It came with a tub of shafts, gears, bearings, pins and bolts. I am slowly figuring it all out. One of the selector rings? that contain three bearings and a pin which goes between two gears was in three pieces in a baggie. I finally figured out what that was and am now making a replacement. I'm hoping this is why it was disassembled.


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## countryguy (Feb 12, 2019)

Hey... sorry for the late reply.  I have a Pic and I'll upload the 3D file in iges and stl here for ya.  anyone w/ a 3d Printer can make ya one.   My kid has all the printers at his place now and I know he's buried w/ school (final year!  WHOOT!) .   So... I tried to upload and it seems I'm not allowed. Everything issues an invalid file format.  Send me a PM (if I can even get those still w/o payin') w/ an email and I'll send them along.  maybe someone can post the 3D files up.. I get a ping about 1x or 2x a year on these it seems.   Just over 18mm  (18.03) but it's not the most accurate one.  and you can see the wear groove in the bad one.    7.3mm OD x 18mm L   For mine, the bad one was the one farthest from the front dial.  PIA to take apart and get back, but it can be done.  The other 2 are easily removed or replaced.


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## Surveywaters (Feb 12, 2019)

Pm sent. Thank you!

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## glucks (Dec 1, 2019)

Just picked up a dgp-24 at auction for $300. I am pretty excited about it. Probably going to need some plastic pieces too. Looking forward to getting it up and running.


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## glucks (Dec 5, 2019)

So the manual calls for bp energrease ls2 which isn't sold in the U.S. I would like to find an equivalent, do you guys know of anything that is readily available.


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## glucks (Dec 8, 2019)

I contacted Castrol who make BP energrease ls2 and they recommended
Castrol Tribol GR 100-2 PD. The specs seem pretty close. It is not cheap at $25 a 14 oz. tube but I figure better safe than sorry.


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## Woogybeef (Nov 6, 2022)

Surveywaters said:


> Estoy trabajando en un Rockwell EFI-2, creo que es la misma unidad. MUCHAS GRACIAS por el manual. ¿Podría proporcionar las longitudes de esos pasadores de plástico? Tengo las piezas desgastadas, pero no sé cómo calculaste las longitudes originales. Además, ¿algún interés en hacer algunas de esas cámaras de plástico para un tipo?
> 
> Compré el mío por $6 en una subasta, eso no es un error tipográfico. Venía con una tina de ejes, engranajes, cojinetes, pasadores y pernos. Poco a poco lo estoy descifrando todo. ¿Uno de los anillos selectores? que contiene tres cojinetes y un pasador que va entre dos engranajes estaba en tres piezas en una bolsita. Finalmente descubrí qué era eso y ahora estoy haciendo un reemplazo. Espero que sea por eso que se desarmó.


SI, soy de la misma opinión, este taladro es el mismo!  EFI lo fabrico para varios grandes marcas dentro de ellas : "Rockwell EFI-2" y DoAll. Llevaba mucho tiempo buscando el Manual.


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