# PM-1440GS or PM1340GT lathe or maybe a PM1440GT



## jer

Hi all, I am trying to find out more about a newer lathe Matt offers, the PM-1440GS. He says there out there but I can't find anyone that has one. I'm looking into a larger lathe and this one looks good on paper but I want to hear about real hands on experiences if possible. TIA.

UPDATE: I went with a PM1440GT 3 phase unit.


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## jbolt

I have not heard of this model but looking at the ebay add it looks very similar to the Grizzly G0709 gunsmith lathe. The differences I see right away are the PM has a 2" spindle bore and 3 hp single phase motor vs the 1.57" bore and 2 HP motor of the G0709. The G0709 has the torque lock feature on the tail stock where the PM does not. I would ask if the ways are hardened. It does not say in the ebay add. Most people who have the G0709 seem happy with them.


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## jer

You caught the differences jbolt. I have the Owners Manual on the PM1440GS and have compared the two for a few weeks and they seem to be the same machine except for the mentioned items. The GS seems to be a lot of lathe for $5999. The machines I am considering are the PM1236, PM1236T, PM1340GT and the PM1440GS.  Two of the above are in stock and the others should be here in June. It is hard to make a decision on machines you have never seen. Any of them will be a big step up in size. They all would be great.


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## jbolt

I hear you on buying sight unseen. When I purchased my PM-1440GT the very first run was still being made at the factory so it was a big unknown to everyone. No regrets now. 

The G0709 was on my short list when I was looking. The PM-1440GS would have been also if I had know about them. I really like the D1-5 spindle nose over the D1-4 and I wouldn't want to do without a 2" spindle bore now. 

Everyone here who has a PM-130GT likes them a lot. I wanted a pull out chip tray, foot brake and coolant system so it was not on my list but it looks like a very capable lathe.

My two cents: If you have room and the budget get as big as you can afford. 

Happy hunting.


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## jer

Your wants seem to mirror mine on features. I want a cast iron base, foot brake, pull out chip tray and the 2" spindle bore is nice too. The PM1340GT looks to be a very good machine but I want some features it doesn't have. I can't afford a PM1440GT so the PM1440GS fits the bill. I know Matt has sold around 100 of them but I can't find out much other than what the Manual and Matt say. The GS is a Chinese machine but Matt says "the build quality is good, but it is a Chinese machine."

Just to muddy the waters some there will be a cast iron base for the PM1236 out very soon, as in next week, and the new PM1236T will be out in June. The 1236 falls just short of my needs and the 1236T is close to the 1340GT in features so I am back to the PM1340GT or the PM1440GS.

Hopefully a PM1440GS owner will chime in. I had the same problem when I bought my PM1030V a couple of years back. There were 40/60 out but nobody was writing about them either.


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## mksj

The PM-1440GS are no longer listed on eBay, both sold. The 3Hp motor, larger spindle and DRO would swing me to the PM vs. the Grizzly.
One more to look at, just to muddy the waters, not sure of where it is produced (I think it is Chinese origin): http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-Swg-40-c...-ENGINE-LATHE-D1-4-with-1-1-2-bo/152486846396
Not sure about the 1236 size given you seem to want something more substantial, I would go for a 1340GT between the two. Since you have had a Chinese lathe previously, you probably for familiar with some of the fit/finish issue that are often annoying but not major. All will get the job done and there are a number of reviews on the G0709 which appears very similar, but if you want to go big than the 1440 would be the way to go. I have used similar 1440 machines with cast iron bases, they definitely have that solid planted feeling, and will pretty much turn anything with ease that you can get on it. Like the pull out chip tray if you do a lot of heavy machining. Also nice is usually 1 or 2 change gears covers everything on these models.

I would definitely look at better chucks and additional accessories you would want, so more as a total package/cost. I have a 1340GT and it is a very nice lathe, for me it fits my needs, but if the 1440GT was available at the time I would have gone with that. I just did not want to deal with the fit/finish issues I have had on previous Chinese mainland produced machines. But if I where turning larger stock or aggressively cutting stock, than I would go with a 1440. Personally I prefer an enclosed universal gearbox and a larger spindle bore when available.


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## jer

Thanks for your insight Mark. I am considering all the above machines and the GS looks like it would be more than I would ever need. I probably would never need 3 phase but who knows later on, I put a 3 HP Lenze SMVector on my Super-Max knee mill last year and its great.

My wife told me to get the PM1440GT and be done with it. Hows that for a great wife? Shes mighty loose with my retirement isn't she? I might take her up on that. LOL.


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## mksj

My wife says the same thing, at this age if you can buy once and be happy it is worth it, certainly have worked hard through the years. I would go 3 phase, just be aware that in my experience the VFDs do not work well with 2 speed motors. I have been helping a number of individuals do a simple VFD conversion that uses the contactors, very quick and you are up and running with minimal additional expense. My vote would be for the 3 phase 1440GT, you know what your going to get and it will put a smile on your face every time you use it. QED.


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## jer

Truthfully the PM1340GT is the best of both worlds in my opinion. If I can work it out that is the way to go. 3 phase and VFD would be the first things to do. I'm not very knowledgeable in the electronics needed. My field was 39+ years with an REA on transmission/distribution systems. We quit at the meter pole and my "schooling" was in the 70s. LOL.


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## sanddan

jer said:


> Truthfully the PM1340GT is the best of both worlds in my opinion. If I can work it out that is the way to go. 3 phase and VFD would be the first things to do. I'm not very knowledgeable in the electronics needed. My field was 39+ years with an REA on transmission/distribution systems. We quit at the meter pole and my "schooling" was in the 70s. LOL.


 
mksj can help you  with the VFD, he is the resident expert here. He helped me get my PM1340GT up and running.

Is that a Miata?


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## jer

I hope he is very patient, I'm a slow study.

I want the PM1440GT but don't want to spend ~$2K more than the PM1340GT.

Yes it is my track car.


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## jbolt

Whats another 2K among friends 

Ya know you want one....







2-1/4" 1018 CRS, .035" DOC finishing cut, 500 rpm, .009" feed ........


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## jer

Do you have a spider on your 1440GT? Yes I want one, its the $10K that I have problems with. LOL. Anymore pictures of that fine piece of machinery?


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## jbolt

jer said:


> Do you have a spider on your 1440GT? Yes I want one, its the $10K that I have problems with. LOL. Anymore pictures of that fine piece of machinery?



Pictures of the spider *here.
*
The whole thread of receiving and modifications *here*. Spent more than I originally intended but in the end it was totally worth it. Has almost paid for itself in customer work.


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## Matt P

If it were me I'd go with the 134oGT over the Chinese lathe.
I have a 1340GT and 1440GT, while looking for the 1440, I looked at quite a few lathes and the difference between the Tawianese and Chinese lathes is very noticeable IMO.
What are you planning on using it for, and do you need the 1440 size ??
Matt P


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## bss1

I have the PM1340GT. It's a great machine and am very happy with it.  When I was looking, the 1340 was more machine than I thought I needed for my prospective projects and the space available. That said, the larger spindle bore and enclosed gear box of the 1440GT would be nice.  If you have the space and budget go for the larger machine. If not, I don't think you would be disappointed at all with the 1340. 

Definitely go with the 3 phase motor and VFD. Mark helped me with one of his VFD conversion systems and while it took some time and effort to remove and reinstall the electrical system, he makes it it a simple process and has a good set of instructions, photos, and labeled connections.  There have been many of us that have gone through this process and can help with questions. Dan, Mark and Jay who have already posted were very helpful and patient with me and all the questions I had.

The variable speed, soft start, breaking, and proximity stop are really nice features to have.   There are many threads on this topic you can read up on. 

The best thing about buying one of these two machines is the depth of info  already posted here and available from the many generous members. 

Good luck and keep us posted on your decision.


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## Doubleeboy

mksj said:


> My wife says the same thing, at this age if you can buy once and be happy it is worth it, certainly have worked hard through the years. I would go 3 phase, just be aware that in my experience the VFDs do not work well with 2 speed motors. I have been helping a number of individuals do a simple VFD conversion that uses the contactors, very quick and you are up and running with minimal additional expense. My vote would be for the 3 phase 1440GT, you know what your going to get and it will put a smile on your face every time you use it. QED.



Regarding VFD with 2 speed motor, I agree ... mostly.  I have been running a 3 hp Teco FM VFD successfully with a Jet JTM-1 , 2HP step pulley 2 speed motor mill for 13 years.  It needs to warm up for 30 seconds on lower speed pulley before jumping up to high speed but has worked well for all these years if I stay between 40 and 80 cycles.  I briefly step down to 15 cycles for tapping sometimes but those are brief periods.  If I ever smoke the motor I will replace motor with one more suitable for the purpose, but I have gotten away with this for years.   The Jet is a Taiwanese machine and motor, chinese motor, I don't know if I would do it, but they have improved dramatically over the years.


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## mksj

JBOLT definitely has the a sweet lathe setup. A lot of time and effort went into his revamp of his lathe.

The 1340GT does everything I need it to do and I plan to keep it for a long time. The spend factor was an issue when I was looking, and my "budget" almost doubled by the time I was done , but because I have had "quality control" issues on previous Chinese mainland machines, my compromise was toward quality as opposed to size. I am happy with my choice, it is a great lathe, but one always lusts for bigger/heavier machine.  It is a difficult call between the lathes listed, but really boils down to the type of work you plan on doing and cost compromise. I think either a 1340 or 1440 would be a huge step up. 

On the two speed motors and VFDs, the VFDs can be programed for the characteristics of each winding setup/load (4P/8P). I have twice tried this on 2 speed motors, but usually one the motor speed settings did not run very well. In both cases the motor was replaced with an inverter motor usually run up to 120 or 180 Hz.  Newer inverter motors do very well as a replacement, one can boost the VFD overload on these motors to around 180-200% for up to a minute which can provide a lot more short term power at the lower frequency settings. Also, if you over speed the motors you deliver more spindle Hp, and comparable torque to a standard motor when you factor in the belt/gearing ratios. I rarely see more than +/- 1 RPM change on my lathe regardless of the load and motor frequency from 20-120Hz. The ability to tweak the speed or adjust it while turning is a game changer for me, I find a very narrow RPM range for boring or cutoff that works well for a specific material.
Mark


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## jer

Thanks guys for all the posts. As you can see in my sign. line I have been busy gathering machines and tools for my home/farm (some of my own gun work) shop since I retired. This mostly started when I had a gunsmith friend, who has a Sharp 1340VS that I love to operate, build my last 1000 yd target gun, I'm not sure weather to cuss him or thank him. As you can suppose I have spent way more, many thousands, than I thought was possible. My PM1030V was adequate for most of my needs for around a year then  ballooned from there.

My real needs stop with a quality 12x36" lathe. I needed to work some 1 3/4" round stock for a friend a while back and couldn't. I decided to get a larger lathe because a 1" spindle bore won't do much in all reality.

Now we come to my wants/needs list. I *want* a pull out chip pan, cast iron base, gear box with the least change gears possible, two axis DRO, over 1.5" spindle bore (2" would be nice), 2HP *minimum* motor, highest quality (9002 factory Chinese or if possible) Taiwanese lathe. There are probably other items I am forgetting right now but you get the idea. I also want to go 3 phase if possible.

When I was looking for a mill I started thinking a PM25 but after some time and persuading I ended up with a 1984 full size Super-Max knee mill, (and boy am I glad I listened to my friend), that I love to use.

So when he said get the biggest/best lathe I can afford, I am going to listen to him *this* time again, here I am and the reason for the thread.

I hope that made sense. I have decided to weigh out the PM1340GT, PM1440GT and the PM1440GS (just because) and get the best I can afford.

I'm curious, a question for those of you who have a PM1440GT /w/ 3 phase. Where is the door located that holds the electrical components?

Have any of you used a Lenze brand VFD, their blue ones, they are American made, on your lathe? I have one on my mill and love it.

I changed the name of the thread to reflect where it seems to be going.


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## dpb

The panel (unfortunately not a door) for the stock electrical on the 1440gt is on the back of the headstock support portion of the stand.  There is also a removable panel to access electrical and braking components on the left end of the stand.  I added an electrical box on hinges (jbolt's idea) on the left end of the stand, to hold the Hitachi VFD, and braking resistor.


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## jer

Thanks dpb, that's exactly what I wanted to know.


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## Sdmf5150

It sounds like it's pretty close to the 1440b-ev. What is the difference for the extra 1k? I was looking at the b-ev but wonder if this might be a better choice.


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## jer

Which machine are asking about we are talking about three different ones here?



Sdmf5150 said:


> It sounds like it's pretty close to the 1440b-ev. What is the difference for the extra 1k? I was looking at the b-ev but wonder if this might be a better choice.


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## Sdmf5150

jer said:


> Which machine are asking about we are talking about three different ones here?


I was comparing the 1440e-lb to the 1440gs


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## jer

The big thing to me is the gearbox style. It has very minimal gear changes which drew me to it. If you are interested in the PM1440GS email Matt and he will send you an Owners Manual attachment . If I hadn't decided to try to buy the 1440 Taiwanese version It was my choice.


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## jer

Mark, Jay, or someone else with first hand experience. Matt has both three phase and single phase machines in stock at this moment. Wouldn't it be better, and perhaps cost less to buy a 3 phase machine to start with?

I have experience with the Lenze SMVector VFD on my mill. It works well and is made in the USA.

This may happen if I play my cards right.


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## Sdmf5150

jer said:


> Mark, Jay, or someone else with first hand experience. Matt has both three phase and single phase machines in stock at this moment. Wouldn't it be better, and perhaps cost less to buy a 3 phase machine to start with?
> 
> I have experience with the Lense brand sensorless (is that right, I'll have to look) vector DRO on my mill. It works well and is made in the USA.
> 
> This may happen if I play my cards right.


I sent Matt an e-mail to get some info. The sooner I make up my mind and order the better! Haha! 
Decisions decisions


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## jer

If you are considering the PM1440GS they are due in June, per Matt. It seems like the best Chinese option going, to  me.

I just decided to try to get a PM1440GT first.


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## mksj

The lathe cost is the same for the PM single and 3 phase machines, on the 1440GT the single phase is 2Hp and the three phase is 3Hp. Either way, I recommend 3 phase in particular if you want to add a VFD. The difference in performance, features and surface finish is not trivial. Lathes are a bit different when it comes to VFD installs and how to integrate them into the machine. I am familiar with the Lenze SMV VFDs, but the programing and wiring has been worked out for the Hitachi WJ200. Matt sells the WJ200 and it is about $80 less expensive than something like the Lenze ESV222N02YXB, but I can help you either way. As previously mentioned, there is a very simple conversion process where you use the motor forward/reverse contactor to trigger the respective VFD inputs. This works well if the contactors are new and will act just like the stock machine with variable speed and controlled acceleration and braking. The one caveat is the foot brake, you can either use the mechanical brake but should add a dual pole limit switch, the second pole issues a coast command to the VFD, or the limit switch can be used to electronically stop the lathe. Normally you may not have both operational because the VFD has a programed deceleration which can fight the mechanical.   I do have full system designs, this is what jbolt used, but it can be a bit overwhelming to start with.

It is a tough call between the three machines, the 1440's seem to be what you want.  The 1440GT being about 25% more expensive with shipping. The 1440GS really has everything you want, but it will not have the user feel of the Taiwanese machines. It really will come down to how much more that is worth, and only you can determine that. All of them will be a huge step up from what you had. You will also need to factor in the additional tooling costs which can be significant. You might omit the preferred packaged and go a la carte on the accessories.  I am  a big advocate of the set-true type of chucks if you do any kind of repeat work or consider a high quality 4J independent or combo. Matt does sell the Taiwanese Chandox set-true chucks, which are less expensive than the Bison equivalent. You may also want to stock up on holders and few other items that you may want to package.
Mark


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## jbolt

jer said:


> Mark, Jay, or someone else with first hand experience. Matt has both three phase and single phase machines in stock at this moment. Wouldn't it be better, and perhaps cost less to buy a 3 phase machine to start with?
> 
> I have experience with the Lense brand sensorless (is that right, I'll have to look) vector DRO on my mill. It works well and is made in the USA.
> 
> This may happen if I play my cards right.



I would get the 3 phase and do the minimum setup to get going. You can add the whistles and bells later. My 1440gt came single phase and I ran it for a month or so before converting to 3 phase. My 3 phase motor is a 3hp Marathon, not a factory 3hp 3ph.  Comparing the two, the factory 2hp single phase motor under powered. Marks trail blazing on the VFD conversions and his schematics and programming for the Hitachi  make the setup pretty easy. 

Starting with a 3 ph saves you the cost of a motor and sheave plus making a new mount. The Marathon motor I have was the only one I could find short enough to fit without modifying the back splash. It is larger in diameter than the factory motor making it necessary to modify the gear cover. 

I kept the manual brake and changed out the kill switch to a DPDT to set the VFD to coast. I don't trust the VFD breaking to stop an 8" chuck at full speed in an emergency. The manual break does it very well. The electronic breaking is great for most everything else.


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## chargerman111

jer said:


> Hi all, I am trying to find out more about a newer lathe Matt offers, the PM-1440GS. He says there out there but I can't find anyone that has one. I'm looking into a larger lathe and this one looks good on paper but I want to hear about real hands on experiences if possible. TIA.


I have the PM1440E-LB and  I Almost bought the Grizzly G0709,  I am glad I didn,t. Just my opinion but I believe  I got more for the $ with precision Mathews.  I know the machines are simular but I got the 2"large bore spindle with the larger spindle bearings,3hp motor, MT4 tailstock. Mine is almost identical to the GS. If you want to do a video call with me I can go over it with you and show you anything you want to see. I love it and Matt is great to deal with. Just message me if you want to see it.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## jer

Thanks guys for all the info. If I can swing it I will get the PM1440GT with 3 phase (to save cost and setup time). I will do a VFD conversion right from the start. If the GT doesn't work out I will get the GS and convert it ASAP.

Mark and Jay I hope I'm smart enough to do the VFD conversion but think it is worth the time. The reason I wanted to use a Lenze is because I have one on my mill, I work under the KISS principal. I can use a Hitachi if needed.

Also I have talked with Matt concerning tooling etc.

Thanks again all.


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## jbolt

jer said:


> Mark and Jay I hope I'm smart enough to do the VFD conversion but thank it is worth the time.



You will have no problem putting it together. There is plenty of support here to get through it. Once you do one you will realize it's not that hard.


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## jer

Hi Jay, I did the basic programing on my mill with a 3 hp Lenze SMVector as mentioned above. Until I move into my new "project shop" I didn't take full advantage of its many features. If the Lenze is too much problem I will go with a Hitachi.


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## mksj

Each VFD has there own quarks and programming tweaks. If you are going to do the basic install, most newer sensorless vector VFDs will work. But if you plan on doing a more full system, then it matters as there are different wiring and programming parameters that vary by VFD brand/type.


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## jer

Mark, in your opinion, should I place a premium on using another Lenze on the lathe to keep my learning curve simpler on me (KISS)? I can go with a Hitachi if need be. I don't want to impose on your knowledge to an unreasonable degree? I like that they are made in the USA too. My plans are to get it going with the basics at first and let it evolve as needed.

Also is the base steel or cast iron on the GT model?


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## dpb

The base on mine is ~3/16" steel.  I haven't experienced any lack of stability or rigidity.


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## jbolt

The steel stand on the GT is very stout. I had my concerns at first but Matt has done a good job on the specs to the manufacturer to get it very ridgid. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


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## mksj

I would stick with the WJ200, they have been very reliable and everything has been worked out on them for these machines. You also save some $. There are a lot of good VFDs, and a few crappy ones. But in this case since the majority of the VFD conversions for the 1340/1440GT have been with the WJ200 it is a known quantity. Not a problem to help whatever you decide. I would not get too hung up a cast iron base, everything I have read is the 1440GT is very stout, it is also the mass of the machine. Based on your discussions I would stick with either of the 1440GT or GS, I sometime wish for a bit more mass on my lathe, a pull out chip tray and a larger spindle bore. So pretty much what you are looking for.
Mark


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## jer

Thanks Mark, I have been reading many VFD threads you have done. I'm not sure just yet exactly what features I want but so far I think I want;  for/rev, speed pot,  accel control, decel control, and may want VFD braking.

I will add to this as possibilities come to mind. I hope this doesn't get too complicated for my pea brain. LOL.

Perhaps a proximity sensor?


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## jer

Well all, the deed is done. I have a PM1440GT 3 phase on order, with a bunch of goodies to go with it. Talk about blowing your budget, I doubled it. LOL. Oh, they are in stock too! My wait won't be long this time.

Now all I need is to impose on a few of our very knowledgeable members for guidance. I have some parts to gather and a lot to learn.


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## jbolt

Awesome! You won't be disappointed. 

Any time you need help spending more money we're her for ya!


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## jer

Thanks Jay, I appreciate you guys helping me go $4K over my already raised budget. I don't deserve such a fine machine, but I'll get over it. LOL.

I picked up a 12" j&p box for the lathe and a 10" one for the mill this morning. That's a start. I will need guidance with what I need for the controls I want.  Which look to be forward/reverse, speed pot, tach, accel control, decel control, perhaps a proximity sensor & bypass and may want VFD braking. Any thoughts on the matter?

I'm thinking the tach and speed pot in a box under the DRO, like the pictures of tachs I've seen.

Thanks again.


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## jbolt

I have electronic and mechanical braking.

Mine is setup with 2-speed braking via a switch. One setting is for 1-2 seconds for spindle speeds 1K or less and the other is set for 3-4 seconds is for above 1k rpm with a heavy chuck. I need to up the deceleration time on the high end as it will fault sometimes. 

In reality I keep the braking set at the first setting (1-2 seconds) and use the mechanical brake for high speed. Electronic braking from high speed with a large chuck is not quick enough in some situations and if it faults it will free wheel. The mechanical brake has saved my bacon a few times where I'm not sure the electronic would have but I have a habit of turning at higher speeds than most.

I setup mine with the proximity stop but never use it and find it gets in the way so I have it disabled. I know others like them for threading up to a shoulder but I have no trouble without. YMMV. 

Just in case you have any $$$$ left over may I recommend the http://www.ajaxtoolsupply.com/pba86jawsela.html  (yeah I want one too)


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## jer

COUGH... COUGH... CHOKE... CHOKE... I have PM "High Precision" 8" 3J and 4J Taiwanese chucks coming with the lathe. I would love to have a 5C chuck too but maybe later.

I might use electronic braking at threading speeds and mechanical over that, or just mechanical for everything. How does that sound? I don't want to get too technical.


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## jbolt

We will expect a full review on the chucks. 

I opted not to get the Chucks from Matt. I got a Gator 8" 3-jaw adjustable and a Gator 8" 4-jaw with two piece jaws so I could use soft jaws. 

I just did a job in  2" Aluminum thin wall tubing (.o35" wall) that had internal snap ring grooves. A 6-jaw would have been nice to have.


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## jer

The PM 8" 3J has two piece jaws but the 4J has reversible jaws (two piece would be nice). I hope "High Precision" means high quality.


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## dpb

The 8" 3 jaw I bought from PM as part of the upgrade package holds less than .001" TIR on anything I've tried it on so far.


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## Doubleeboy

Nice looking lathe, congrats!   You can take the drama out of threading to a shoulder by turning tool upside down and threading in reverse moving towards tailstock.  Sure makes life easy, no crashes, no worries.  Joe P on you tube has video on it, highly recommended if you are not already aware of the specifics.


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## jer

Thanks guys. I hope my chuck is as accurate. I had seen Joe do that come to think about it.


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## jer

Hi Mark, I could send you a PM but I'm sure there are others that would be interested in the info too. The PM1440GT being so new it is still somewhat an unknown.

I picked up 12" and 10" j&p boxes, if needed, Tuesday. The price was right, free. 

I'm looking for guidance with what I need for the controls I want, and the level of complexity. Which look to be forward/reverse, speed pot, tach, accel control (as in 3-5 seconds), decel control (2-3 sec.), upper and lower freq. as in 30 to 90 cycles. Perhaps a proximity sensor & bypass and may want VFD foot braking (as in "OH SH$T" right now). I'm thinking tach and speed pot in a small box under the DRO display.

What does that sound like to you? I can live without the P sensor and/or VFD foot brake if it is too complicated. I think the rest shouldn't be too much for my limited ability. (Maybe).


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## jer

The GT will be here next Friday.   

Now if I just knew all it takes to make it run. LOL.   

It will take a little while to clean it up and install the DRO and VFD. The electronics will be the hardest thing for me.   

Thanks for all your help guys.


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## mksj

Jerry,
I would send me a PM with your email and we can see what you want to do. There are a number of different build possibilities, and every one is different. What I recommend is a basic setup using the contactors to activated the VFD inputs to get you started. You can get most of the features you are asking about, but the proximity sensor and some of the more advance interlocks/controls requires a new system build either on the current control board or a new drop in replacement. You will also need to map out all the wiring and you would need a new wiring harness and front panel switches. Doable, but probably takes 2-3 weeks to get it all together depending on available time. A known VFD system build takes me about 16-20 hours to put together.   Maybe JBOLT can provide some information on the foot brake dual pole limit switch he used. I think if you have a mechanical foot brake, then probably a good safety feature in addition to the normal VFD braking, but the VFD needs to have a freewheel command.  You will need a VFD braking resistor, these are suggestions:
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...passive-product/TJT50047RJ/A123924-ND/5878245
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ohmite/WFH330L50RJE/WFH330L50RJE-ND/824606
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ohmite/WFH330L50RJE

I already have programming parameters for the 1440GT basic conversion, the WJ200 is fairly straight forward to program once you get your hands on it.  The enclosure must be at leas 8" deep, the resistors are are 11-13" long, a 12x12" box you may be limited to the Ohmite, as the TE is 13".
Regards,
mark


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## jer

Thanks Mark, I will be getting with you soon. I'm good with the basic setup, maybe for ever. It seems simple, quick and little cost involved. Which after the lathe will keep my "Financial Officer" happy.

I saw your programing on the 1340GT, it looked good. Similar to my Lenze VFD on my mill.

Also the boxes I have are only 6" deep so they won't work.

I expect the conversion will take me a few weeks to learn and gather items needed.

Thanks again Mark.


----------



## sanddan

Doubleeboy said:


> Nice looking lathe, congrats!   You can take the drama out of threading to a shoulder by turning tool upside down and threading in reverse moving towards tailstock.  Sure makes life easy, no crashes, no worries.  Joe P on you tube has video on it, highly recommended if you are not already aware of the specifics.



I watched one of his videos where he was doing an internal thread using this technic and running the lathe very fast. Very impressive! He does a great job with his videos.


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## jer

mksj said:


> Jerry,
> I would send me a PM with your email and we can see what you want to do. There are a number of different build possibilities, and every one is different. What I recommend is a basic setup using the contactors to activated the VFD inputs to get you started. You can get most of the features you are asking about, but the proximity sensor and some of the more advance interlocks/controls requires a new system build either on the current control board or a new drop in replacement. You will also need to map out all the wiring and you would need a new wiring harness and front panel switches. Doable, but probably takes 2-3 weeks to get it all together depending on available time. A known VFD system build takes me about 16-20 hours to put together.   Maybe JBOLT can provide some information on the foot brake dual pole limit switch he used. I think if you have a mechanical foot brake, then probably a good safety feature in addition to the normal VFD braking, but the VFD needs to have a freewheel command.  You will need a VFD braking resistor, these are suggestions:
> https://www.digikey.com/product-det...passive-product/TJT50047RJ/A123924-ND/5878245
> https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ohmite/WFH330L50RJE/WFH330L50RJE-ND/824606
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ohmite/WFH330L50RJE
> 
> I already have programming parameters for the 1440GT basic conversion, the WJ200 is fairly straight forward to program once you get your hands on it.  The enclosure must be at leas 8" deep, the resistors are are 11-13" long, a 12x12" box you may be limited to the Ohmite, as the TE is 13".
> Regards,
> mark



Thanks Mark, I sent a PM but not sure if it got to you. Thanks for all the info I'm sure I will do a better job with your help.


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## jer

Mark/Jay, does the 1440GT have a main rotary switch on it for on/off, or any main?

Do you by any chance have a schematic for it? I need to start getting familiar with my new machine and its wiring.


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## mksj

Hi Jay,
It does not have a rotary power disconnect switch, you could  add one either at the machine or at the VFD enclosure. There is also enough room in the headstock cabinet to mount the VFD in the cabinet. I have a schematic, but not sure it is going to help but I can send it to you. It also seems that there is a wide variation in how they are wired and components, so it may be worthwhile see how your shows up. I did get your PM and sent you additional information.
Mark.


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## jer

Thanks Mark, I will try to send pictures of the wiring when the GT gets here, they say Friday. I appreciate our help. I will start gathering parts after I/we decide what functions are the best for my needs. I got your email. Thanks again.


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## jbolt

mksj said:


> Jerry,
> Maybe JBOLT can provide some information on the foot brake dual pole limit switch he used.



I used a Honeywell GLEA24C micro switch though I don't know what is micro about it. Installation requires drilling two new mounting holes in the base.


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## mksj

That is the same one I recommended to another 1440GT owner the other days, either great minds think alike or we are both getting senile and are looking at the same thing. Good to know. I am going to but together some schematics that use the basic contactors, but will have a few more extended control features if one wants to step it up. You can get a very nice install for minimal investment and get some very nice control features. The other option to keep the costs down is to mount the VFD in the headstock cabinet on some L brackets, and swing out the side panel for access. 
Thanks JBOLT.


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## jbolt

I'm pretty sure you recommended that one to me otherwise it probably would have been from Automation Direct.


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## jer

Thanks Jay.


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## jbolt

jer said:


> Mark/Jay, does the 1440GT have a main rotary switch on it for on/off, or any main?
> 
> Do you by any chance have a schematic for it? I need to start getting familiar with my new machine and its wiring.



On/Off is through the e-stop. As delivered, when hooked up to power, the factory power supply is always under power. I added a 32A 110vac contactor controlled by a lighted 22mm switch switch to act as a main so all power is disconnected when off.

There is no factory wiring schematic in the manual. That may come later when PM prepares their own manuals.


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## jer

Thanks Jay, I think I will have a main on the machine or VFD box to kill the whole machine too.


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## jer

Well, the work started today. It was here around 1PM, picked it up 2PM, home 3PM and uncrated 4PM, done for the day.


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## jer

You did good Matt. So far I can hardly even find a scuff in the paint. Everything looks very good on fit and finish. The dark grey base and the light blue-grey (off white) machine go together very well. I'll be cleaning this thing for a week.

I was afraid of how big it would be. It doesn't seem big at all, very compact size to me compared to some machines I've been around.

After seeing some of the shops you could eat off the floor here I'm ashamed to let anyone see my cluttered/unfinished shop.


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## Kiwi Canuck

Jer, congrats on the new machine.

I guess you know about getting all the cosmoline off as you've had to deal with it before but I noticed when using WD40 the nastier the rag got, the better it cleaned.

David

PS. We are ready for some pictures.


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## jer

My problem is getting the pictures from my phone to my email. Then to my facebook, I guess, I'm not up on these things. If I can get them to my email, I run out of knowledge on the rest. I guess its one of the disadvantages of being out enough to retire. LOL

We'll see what I can do.

After seeing some of you guys shops that I could eat off the floor I'm ashamed to show pictures from in my cluttered/unfinished shop.


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## Kiwi Canuck

There is probably a post or two on here how to post pictures.  

I plug my phone into my computer via the USB charging cable, it asks me if I want to open the files on the phone and then copy the ones I want to my computer/pictures directory.

I then open up Photobucket.com which I use to host my pictures and then upload the pictures to Photobucket.
It's mostly follow the commands, there are other photo hosting sites that some people think are better but I stated with PB and just live with that fact that's it slow sometimes. I've heard paid subscriptions work better and you don't get pop up adverts.

Then once the pictures are uploaded to Photobucket, on the right side there is a few boxes with links in them, I copy the link "direct" using Control "C" and then go back to my posting, click the place where I want the photo to appear and then go up to the top of the post and find the little picture icon, click it and then "Control "P" to paste the link into the window, click OK and the image appears in the post, keep doing it for the next picture etc.

I always put 2 spaces between pictures so they are spaced out a little which makes them look better IMO.

Good luck.

David.


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## jer

Thanks David, I have a PB account but haven't used it in years. I'll try it a little later.


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## jbolt

Get the photos onto your puter and when posting use the "Upload a File" button then browse to your photo on the puter. It resizes the photo and uploads to the HM server. That way the photos won't disappear if you close your off-site hosting account.


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## jer

Thanks Jay. The gear cover on my GT seems to fit the machine just right. Maybe they got some of the bugs/kinks worked out. I haven't found anything that looks other than first rate. If it runs as good as it looks I will be ecstatic. It doesn't seem as big as I thought it would be, very compact machine. Even if it is over 20" wider and 4-5 times the weight of the 1030V.


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## jbolt

Excellent! 

I think because my machine was in the very first batch and the factory was late in delivering that some things got rushed in assembly. Mechanically it has been perfect.

It's a nice size machine for a garage shop. 

What are you going to do with the 1030V? Have you ever considered CNC........? We would be more than glad to help you spend more of your money.


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## jer

Jay, I think I will be stretching what's left of my functioning brain cells to do the VFD and related conversion on the new GT. Lets get me through that first. LOL. A DRO, speed pot, tach, electronic braking and reversible jog are all I am thinking about adding to the VFD basics. I'm thinking about not using the flood coolant system and just using my Kool-Mist unit on both the mill and lathe.

If it works out the 1030 will be sold to buy more goodies for the GT. If not, a second machine in the shop works for me too.


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## jer

Picking it up at the dock
















At home





In the shop








I hope they turned out ok Jay.

I started cleaning it up today.


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## jbolt

Sheesh...it's not even off the pallet. What have you been doing all day???? 

Looks good Jerry! Now get that baby wired up!


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## jer

Well, it was cold and rainy today. I did use a lot of paper towels and WD40. It's pretty well cleaned up. I sent Mark an email and will be getting started on the wiring soon.

I'm going to keep it simple. I think I want the below features, (subject to your/Marks thoughts/suggestions)

1  speed pot and faceplate
2  tach and box (under the DRO head)
3  braking resistor
4  toggle jog

I am wondering if having just the electronic braking on the e-stop and foot brake will be adequate. The toggle jog seems to be the only item I don't know the hookup for.

I'm thinking about not using the coolant system that comes on the GT and using my Kool-Mist. That frees up a hole in the face for the speed pot or an aux. power switch.

I hope to start the DRO install next week.


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## jbolt

If you go with all electronic braking use the mechanical brake first so you can compare. If you decide to later use the mechanical brake you would just need to change the switch a s few parameters in the VFD.

The fwd/rev jog requires adding some diodes the the wiring. Not too complicated.

I wanted the coolant system but have not had a job yet that has justified using it plus I would need to get a chip guard to control the spray off the spindle. One of the few things I don't care for on this lathe is the access to the coolant tank and pump. 

Which DRO did you get?


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## jer

Hi Jay, wouldn't I need to change the foot brake switch out to use the mechanical feature and the VFD from the start?

I like the idea of the toggle jog, its high on my list. I don't have the wiring for it yet. I'm not going to put a P-switch on for a while. if ever.

I like the Kool-Mist over a flood system, way less mess in my opinion, for what I do. I can move it to/from the Super-Max, where it has lived for the last 33 years, as needed too. The base needs to have *front* access to the coolant system, anything else needs re-thought out. I am going to place the lathe as close to the wall as possible both to the rear and tail stock end (of course leaving room to remove the tail stock).

I am going to remove the skirt below the pullout pan and install ball bearing slides/frame and make a pullout shelf for all the lathe related items and put the skirt on the front of it. It won't even be noticeable.

I got the PM 2 axis DRO from Matt.


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## jbolt

jer said:


> Hi Jay, wouldn't I need to change the foot brake switch out to use the mechanical feature and the VFD from the start?



When programming the VFD just set the braking to freewheel and try the mechanical brake. This will make more sense when you get to the programming. If I can do it anyone can. LOL

I like the skirt/shelf mod idea! Looking forward to see how that works out.


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## jer

My enter key stuttered.


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## jer

How will the vfd know to freewheel without a switch to signal to do so?

I bet you get the "drawer" built before I do. I could put the VFD in the drawer on the left side. I really like your build.

I started looking at the wiring and pulling wires out of the raceways today. I'm Leary to start removing wires. LOL.


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## mksj

The foot brake limit switch is currently a single pole, which is NC. When you step on the brake it disconnects the 24VAC to the contactors and breaks all the motion contacts, contactors and de energizes the power contactor. The spindle switch must be placed in the stop position for the power contactor to reset. You replace the current brake limit switch with a dual pole (DPDT) snap action limit switch, the second NO pole connect the P24 from the VFD to an input programmed to freewheel the VFD. This is in the program parameters sent to you. When the 24VAC pole is broken, the other separate switch connects the programed freewheel input to P24. The VFD will freewheel as long as the brake is pressed at any position. Should you just tap the brake and release it the VFD will implement a controlled stop. When going to other more elaborate relay control system, the way that everything works is a bit different, but you still need to replace the limit switch with a DPDT. I recommend what JBOLT has outlined which is to use the foot brake as a manual system.  Having done a number of systems different ways, we also overlook that there are times when you want to use the manual brake to lock the spindle for things like manual tapping, or sometimes you want some form of controlled slow braking.


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## jer

Thanks Mark.


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## jer

A little update, Mark and Jay have been a wealth of knowledge and a little (make that a lot) hand holding. I have stripped out the wiring needed in preparation for the VFD, programming and rewiring. While deciding on my wiring approach and which features I want to implement. I started mounting the DRO. The directions are the least wordy I have found so far. They give the required info if you look hard enough. You-tube was very helpful too. I need to fab one bracket this week for the Z axis scale and it will be done. I will do the X axis this week if time allows. I'm quite a bit shorter than Jay (jbolt) and I need to raise the lathe at least the height of  a good set of leveling feet like Jay and others have. 2" may be enough for me. Now to decide on which one to use.


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## wrmiller

If you can figure out your 'ideal' height for the lathe, you will really appreciate that fact if you have to stand in front of it for any appreciable amount of time. My 1340GT is just on leveling feet, and it is a little too close to the floor for me (6'2"), but is usable. Hopefully soon I will be able to get my hands on a welder and make some proper extensions/small platforms to raise it up just a bit.


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## jer

I understand completely Bill. Jay is 6'1" if I remember right and he raised his GT 6". I'm only 5'6" and have my 1030V at 46" spindle height if I remember right. I like to stand up not bending over the machine, my back won't take much of that before I'm done for the day. I think they come at 42" spindle height. I will try to use the cast leveling feet that came with it first before buying anything.


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## Silverbullet

First I'm jealous but now I'm envious, you guys with wives that tell ya go ahead must be pure angels in there eyes. Mine bellyachs when I spend twenty bucks on used tooling. God bless you and your LATHES a dream for me , of course I want a old monarch around 14" .  But I'm happy with my logan it'll outlast me.


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## jer

Thanks, we are all Blessed, each to a different measure. My wife WANTED me to do SOMETHING after I retired and has supported me with several machine purchases to setup my "farm" machine shop (that sounds good anyway), but the money came from my retirement funds. I think it is a good "investment".


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## wrmiller

It is looking more and more like I am going to be forced into 'early retirement'. I am lucky that I thought to purchase my large machines before the money tree died. 

And it's a good thing I bought decent quality machines, as I won't be able to replace them any time soon!


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## jer

My money tree is now broke down, it withered and died. Thankfully it lasted thru the lathe, knee mill, tooling and saw.


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## jbolt

jer said:


> I understand completely Bill. Jay is 6'1" if I remember right and he raised his GT 6". I'm only 5'6" and have my 1030V at 46" spindle height if I remember right. I like to stand up not bending over the machine, my back won't take much of that before I'm done for the day. I think they come at 42" spindle height. I will try to use the cast leveling feet that came with it first before buying anything.



I set my lathe on wood blocks to figure out the best height for me before I went about building the risers. I had hoped to make some pucks out of 3" or 4" round stock and use the factory screws but when I determined I needed 6" the pucks got over square and I was concerned about stability. My risers are made from 2" x 1/4" angle because I had 40 feet left over from a job that canceled on me.


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## jbolt

Silverbullet said:


> First I'm jealous but now I'm envious, you guys with wives that tell ya go ahead must be pure angels in there eyes. Mine bellyachs when I spend twenty bucks on used tooling. God bless you and your LATHES a dream for me , of course I want a old monarch around 14" .  But I'm happy with my logan it'll outlast me.



Hmmm....I've never had to ask.


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## jer

Well the DRO is installed. The X axis was reading 10X its actual travel so after struggling thru the so called Users Manual and a little reading I got that fixed. I think I will like the DRO. Now its back to the wiring and milling a bottom plate for the QCTP. I know what electronic features I want but just need to get started.

It was nice having the 1030V and the Super-Max to make a drill extension and machine a couple of DRO brackets for the GT.


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## jbolt

jer said:


> Well the DRO is installed. The X axis was reading 10X its actual travel so after struggling thru the so called Users Manual and a little reading I got that fixed. I think I will like the DRO. Now its back to the wiring and milling a bottom plate for the QCTP. I know what electronic features I want but just need to get started.
> 
> It was nice having the 1030V and the Super-Max to make a drill extension and machine a couple of DRO brackets for the GT.



Photos???


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## Wood&Metal

sanddan said:


> mksj can help you  with the VFD, he is the resident expert here. He helped me get my PM1340GT up and running.
> 
> Is that a Miata?


I would agree with sanddan, I bought as much lathe as I could afford just before retirement and got the 1340GT with the 3 phase motor based on recommendationsfrom this group. Mksj was outstanding in his assistance as well as patient in all my basic questions. I have never been sorry for my decision. 


Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


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## jer

Mark has been a great help already. I have been abusing him and Jay for a few weeks now. I had other things that needed to be done before I could get back on the lathe. The DRO was a challenge but it is done now. My knowledge is in a very different field (drawing and building transmission and distribution power lines for a local REA, for 39 years). I will stumble through the electronics with their help, it is very different and the same.


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## Hozzie

Great info here.  I am also looking at the 1340GT and the 1440GS.  I just do my own gunsmithing work and don't want to put out the money required to get a 1440GT, so it is really between these two.  

I really want a Taiwan machine as I do believe it is better quality, but just not convinced I want the open gearbox.  Not because of quality of the threading or anything like that, but just the extra noise it puts out and there is a mental side of it that makes me think oil splashed gears will require less maintenance long term.  

I have no doubt either will work, but is the Norton gear box a valid reason to not go with the 1340?  The size of both machines is more than I "need" so that isn't an issue.  I don't think the GS comes in a 3 phase, but this will truly be an occasional use machine.  I have a SB Heavy 10 right now, but want something a bit more modern.


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## wrmiller

I can't hear anything coming from the Norton gearbox while my lathe is running. The reason I chose the 1340 over my other choices (no 1440 for me...too big), was specifically the Norton gearbox. The only time I will ever need to change a gear on my lathe is if I want to cut a metric thread. So far that hasn't happened.


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## jbolt

Hey jer, you got that machine up and running yet?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


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## jer

jbolt said:


> Hey jer, you got that machine up and running yet?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk



Hi Jay, I'm back on the lathe starting yesterday, I've been to busy for anything fun for the last month!

I looked thru my leftover steel assortments, read junk, and found a couple of pieces that worked great to mount the VFD in and above the tailstock end of the lathe. I had two new 30 amp 4 wire plugins and receptacles that I will use on the mill and lathe. I am building a lexan plastic front cover for my 12x12x6" j box so the front controls of the VFD can stick out 1/2". I ran the shielded cable from the VFD to the control cabinet in the base. Now looking for 8' 10-3w/g shielded wire to go from the VFD to the motor. The protection scheme is next up to decide which options to wire into the VFD.

I hope to temp. wire the control box today, or at least this week, to check out the basic functions in preparation for ordering the switches, etc. to complete the wiring. I will be in touch with you and Mark I'm sure to help with something I don't understand.


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## jbolt

jer said:


> I looked thru my leftover steel assortments,* read junk*, and found a couple of pieces that worked great to mount the VFD in and above the tailstock end of the lathe.



My philosophy is it's not junk until I throw it away. I seem to have a lot of "Not Junk" ...LOL

Be sure to post pictures of your progress.


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## jer

I'm too ashamed to post any more pictures in my shop. LOL. It has been in a constant state of clutter every since it was built. Not to mention some family members think it is just free storage for their crap. That is changing, but slowly. How do you tell your mom to come and get her junk or "I will take it to the dump when you die" politely? Which I have already done and it's still there. My tractor and a couple of trailers are just rotting away out in the desert weather here.

On a better note, I temporarily powered up the contactors and light today, everything did what it was suppose to do. It was very encouraging to hear the contactors "click" when they were suppose to. Now I really am over my head from here on out. Going as slow as I have had to so far it hasn't been too big of an ordeal.


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## jer

Well, around several projects that have derailed the lathe project this summer I started the lathe yesterday. It gave over current fault codes in some lower gears but ran in higher ones. I will check my wiring for problems before crying help to Mark and Jay but it made me happy to hear it run, finally. I hope it just needs some VFD tweaking.


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## mksj

Probably need more information as to when the fault occurs, acceleration, at speed , changing speed or when stopping.  I have updated the parameter file for this machine, see attached. 
1. Make sure the motor parameters are set correctly.
2. Run autotune and specify that the motor values should be used (see attached). 
3. You can increase the current overload b022, I am not sure of the factory default, but try something like 150 or 170 %.
4. The 1440GT tends to stutter on acceleration, change the acceleration time to 3 seconds. Change the acceleration curve to linear A097 to 00.

Starting point, let us know how it goes.
Mark


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## jbolt

Glad to hear it is coming along. Your best bet for vfd/motor issues is mksj as my motor is different. 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## jer

Hi guys, good to hear from both of you. I'm sure my problems are my own fault.

Mark, the faults were at start up, E03 & E05 if I remember correctly. I will look to see if the motor info is what's being used or not. More to come.

I don't have the tach on yet but using 60Hz as reference. The only problems have been spooling up the chuck.

More to come.


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## jer

Well, the tach and toggle jog are the only features left to finish. I am impressed with the lathe. As expected, my problems were programing related. I went through the list again and found two places I overlooked and the auto tune needed done over. All my fault. As mentioned the GT does shutter a little on spool up if asked to do so too fast. I settled on 5 seconds. I can't believe how quickly the foot brake stops the chuck, with the speeds I will use most it will stop instantaneously(thank God for spell check). I can't wait to try threading with the toggle jog and VFD combined. 

Mark and Jay helped, more like spoon fed me the info, so I could do the conversion. It isn't hard but does require your full attention. I want to thank them for all their help to make it possible for me to get the 3Ø lathe up and running with the VFD. A lot of things got in my way this summer and made it take longer that you would believe.

Thanks for your willingness guys to help another member you only know through the forum. Mark, I will send an email with a couple of questions I came up with to run by you soon.

When the GT is in it's final slot I will try to post some pictures of what I did to make it all mine.


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## jer

*Back again with an update,the jog is up and running. The covers are all back on and I am ready to start building the outboard spider and tach install which will be done more or less at the same time. I'm trying to figure the best way to open up the gear cover, something like Jay (jbolt) did to his, to allow the cover to be used with the spider and keep the spindle as short as possible.*


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## jer

double tap


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## mksj

jer said:


> I'm trying to figure the best way to open up the gear cover, something like Jay (jbolt) did to his, to allow the cover to be used with the spider and keep the spindle as short as possible



One issue to consider on the 1440GT is that the upper cover retaining stud bolt is directly above the spindle  and a very short distance away. In other lathes like the 1440GS (and Grizzly models) the cover retaining stud bolt is offset to the rear of the spindle so it will not interfere with the spider bolts. On my 1240GT spider with a 1.59" bore and a spider OD of 2.5"  I usually use  1.5" cap screws with an added brass tip or aluminum fingers, you would probably need 1.75"cap bolts. So I would check if this is going to present an interference problem with the cover bolt, and also take into account if external to the cover the interference with the knurled screw on finger nut that retains the belt cover. On my 1340GT I cut down the length of the upper finger nut about 1/4"  so it would not interfere with the spider bolts. You might determine if the extra ~1.5 "  closer to the headstock is necessary vs spider bolts a just outside the cover.  One suggestion to consider is to cut a rectangular window in the gear cover similar to what is seen on the 1440GS, this could be done with a dremel or die grinder with a thin cutoff blade and you could use epoxy metal glue to attach two vertical strips of aluminum to the cover back in the front and rear sections of the window, tap some threaded shafts into the strip and use small thumb screws to retain the window in place when not using the internal spider bolts.

One other consideration on the spider, is two have two sets of holes for the spider bolts, one set is internal to the cover, the other is external to the cover. I have done something similar to this on my spider. Most of my work is done with longer stock, so it makes it very easy to use the external spider bolt holes. If I need to need as close as possible to the headstock, I use the second set of bolt holes closer in, I also used brass tipped allan set screws which are have 1/4" shorter threaded section and no cap than the Allan cap screws (see below). This allows them to not interfere with the upper cover retaining bolt. If you used the latter, you would pop off the cover, set the spider bolts and replace the cover (or add a window). Last but not least for very short barrel work, I have seen a sleeve attached to the barrel and then the sleeve extends past the spider and is used to set the alignment.
Cap screw vs. Allan screw spider bolts.






1440GS vs. 1440GT upper belt cover retaining bolt location, multiple spider location bolt holes.


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## jbolt

The cover on the 1440gt is about .090" steel so it fabricates and welds well. I cut mine on my little CNC router but it could be done easily enough with a cut-off wheel and a die grinder. I did shorten the upper stud and knurled nut for more clearance.

The other option is to just open up the cover hole for clearance and then remove the cover when you need to use the spider. 

For barrel work on short barrels I just use the steady rest.


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## jer

Thanks guys, I will review your ideas. I appreciate your thoughts/experience.


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## jbolt

Got that first ten thousand dollar part done yet?  They get less expensive the more you make.


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## jer

Hi Jay, actually I started the spider yesterday. I had a little trouble finding something with a large enough diameter to start with locally, that was affordable LOL, then I stumbled on to a 4" piece, pretty cheap, (it's $70.00 per foot here regularly).

Now just deciding how much to reduce it to. After I opened up the cover to ~3.6", the diameter of the recess cutout, I turned the OD to 3.4" to see what it looked like and to figure metric bolts for the attachment points and alignment bolts. It's pretty massive. 3" may have been a better choice but I'm not done yet either. So not quite $10K, but a start. I know I didn't need to start out with 4" but I got lots of practice trying out the new carbide inserts I got from Matt, I got his master set with the lathe. They work great. Now I want a threading set in BXA also.

I mounted the sensor and ran the wiring out to the tach location. I need to mill out the AL box that holds the tach soon. I have a 12VDC power supply to power the tach in my electronics stuff. That's all from here for now.

I can't believe how smooth and powerful the PM1440GT is. I easily cut .060" depth, fast. This is my first time with indexable inserts, wow. The 10x30 will probably be for sale soon, unless I decide to keep it for really short work.


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## Bpro2001

Does anybody in colorado have a PM lathe of any kind that I can look over amd play with a little bit. I would prefer a 1440gs with dro but my shop fox is junk and needs replaced 

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