# Broken Part



## Ancora (Mar 15, 2016)

I have an Atlas/Craftsman 6" lathe with a broken compound rest tool post slide. Clausing wants $187.96 for the part. Sounds steep to me. Have not seen it on Ebay yet. Any ideas?


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## Whyemier (Mar 15, 2016)

You could attempt to braze it, if that option is available to  you.  Or.  you could try machining a new one on the mill. The ball oiler can be had cheaper than a new piece from Clausing.  If no mill or brazing option.  Could be  $187.96 is worth the  cost.

You from Oceanside?  I was born there but left when my father returned from Korea. Never been back.


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## ch2co (Mar 15, 2016)

Before going into debt to buy a new one, I would attempt to braze it.  I'm not a welder by any definition but I have brazed cast parts much like this on several occasions, and they all came out looking and working great. 
A decent brazing job should be stronger than the cast part. Lots of flux and get the whole part hot before applying any rod.

CHuck the grumpy old guy


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## hermetic (Mar 15, 2016)

Make a new one in steel, that one has broken for a reason, looks like it is a bit weak in that area!
Phil


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## Mondo (Mar 15, 2016)

"Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it."

Braze or weld, little will be lost in trying!

Spiral_Chips


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## David VanNorman (Mar 15, 2016)

Id'e go with the Brazeing groove it good support it make sure it is clean get it hot and brazeit.


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## Billh50 (Mar 16, 2016)

Braze it and if you are uneasy about it keep looking for one on ebay while you are using the brazed part. At least you will have a working lathe while looking for another slide.


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## pineyfolks (Mar 16, 2016)

If you can't repair it, you could adapt another small lathe compound to it.


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## westsailpat (Mar 16, 2016)

Welding will be tricky, not impossible  IMO , because you will be joining  the dove tail back together  . I see compound parts all the time on the bay, rarely are they a bargain . Just keep looking one will come along .


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## Firebrick43 (Mar 16, 2016)

If you braze it mill a piece of heavy steel to clamp it to.  Mill a shallow groove across the piece to keep from brazing to it.  Make sure the piece is F L A T to keep alignment.  A side milled would be good to to push the dovetail edge up to. Place two small pieces of ground rod in the dove tail with a gap where braze joint would be and of sufficient diameter keep the edge away from the block.  Two new drill bit shanks of the same size would work well with a function after the job. Clamp very securely the flux and braze. 

Also just another note about price.  187 dollar is dirt cheap in the machinery world.  Last monarch I worked on needed a 2.5 inch uhmw Geneva escapement wheel for the gear change mechanism.  Pretty mundane part for the 995 dollars they charged.


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## Ancora (Mar 16, 2016)

I am going to pick up a piece of C1118 and try making a new part using the milling attachment. Got some qualms about using a dovetail cutter  as I am leery of the machine's sturdiness after breaking the compound rest tool holder.


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## wa5cab (Mar 18, 2016)

It's certainly true that the Atlas machines aren't the heaviest on the planet.  However, based on anecdotal evidence, where yours broke may be unusual.  The usual place to break is the top of the T-slot.  Although I have long suspected that the culprit here is at least partially using a poorly fitted or undersized T-nut.


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## greatbasinind (Mar 18, 2016)

I think that I would drill and bolt plates on both sides, at least two at the front and two at back preferably three on each side.  This is quick and work as long as I would need it, the bolt size would be about 5/16". Good luck, my two bits. John


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## Ulma Doctor (Mar 18, 2016)

find a replacement on ebay unless you have the time and inclination to braze it.
for $189 you may even find a whole lathe on Craigslist for that price
good luck


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## Ancora (Mar 18, 2016)

I found the problem when I mounted the milling attachment and was able to rock it transversely...play in the gibs. I tightened up and the gibs and all seems well.


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## benmychree (Mar 19, 2016)

ch2co said:


> Before going into debt to buy a new one, I would attempt to braze it.  I'm not a welder by any definition but I have brazed cast parts much like this on several occasions, and they all came out looking and working great.
> A decent brazing job should be stronger than the cast part. Lots of flux and get the whole part hot before applying any rod.
> 
> CHuck the grumpy old guy


Agreed, a good braze repair is plenty strong, but I have yet to see any amateur who was capable of it; the fluxes that most companies tout for cast iron brazing are next to useless; I use Anti Borax EZ#3, and dope up the parts with silver soldering flux before starting to heat things up, this protects the surfaces from oxidation while the heating is done, then use the brazing flux when applying the brazing rod, which should wet out like silver solder.


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## MADJACK (Mar 20, 2016)

I made one out of steel for my 10" years ago when mine broke similarly. It has worked problem free and was straitforward to make.


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## Ancora (Mar 21, 2016)

After hogging out some of the metal with a half inch drill I am now trying to mill out the center slot of the piece.  I have to mill out a lot of metal and am using a half inch diameter end mill. It is not going well, as I can only make a 1/32" pass at a time. Any more and the milling attachment has the "fits." A Bridgeport it ain't.


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