# What to practice on lathe



## Creativechipper (Aug 2, 2018)

Hello everyone,

 I was thinking you all could list some practice cuts or things to start off practicing on the lathe.

 I have only done face cuts so far and starting to think I should practice steps, curves, shoulders, etc

 Really no idea what to practice first or what will build up good lathe skills for when I actually turn a project.

 I have heard some people practice making bullets? What is that all about?

Thanks


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## RandyM (Aug 2, 2018)

In my opinion, there is no better practice than to just make something. You really need to find a good project and go at it.  Surely you have something to make or repair?


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## ttabbal (Aug 2, 2018)

Obvious first places to start are facing, turning to a diameter accurately, turning a shoulder, chamfers.. Maybe practice drilling to depths. Basic boring, though that's a whole art in itself from what I can tell. And, of course, threading. 

I only recently started learning again a long time after doing only some basic stuff in a high school shop class. I personally find it more rewarding to make things that I can use. So my method was to do some basics, get to +/-0.002 or so, then work on some simple projects to get more accurate and just get more practice. One that I liked was to replace the bolt holding my toolpost with a handle so I can easily adjust the angle of the tool. Reasonably simple, depending on the exact toolpost design, and good practice for all the basics. 

I started a thread about project ideas for beginners. https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/beginner-lathe-projects.66563/

I plan to work on more of those ideas soon, I'm in the middle of a DRO install and really need to get it done.  

Bullets are probably because they can be decorative/interesting, have a couple diameters and lengths to hit, and often include a taper for the bullet itself. Drill a little hole in the bottom where the primer would go, and you can put a magnet in there. There are always uses for magnet holders around the shop to hold plans, charts, etc..


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## Ed ke6bnl (Aug 2, 2018)

With no internet and first lathe I turned down pvc plastic to get a feel for the lathe


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## Dave Paine (Aug 2, 2018)

I feel the same as Randy.   I prefer to practice by making something.

When I started machining I found single point threading to have a decent learning curve for me, also parting.


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## Creativechipper (Aug 2, 2018)

I am definitely wanting to make something, just a matter of what now.

 The clickspring how to scribe pen looks good to me.


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## ttabbal (Aug 2, 2018)

The scribe was my first real project. I used aluminum because I had it and brass is way overpriced around here. I use it for nearly every project I do now.


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## Skowinski (Aug 2, 2018)

Another vote for making something you need.  My little Atlas needed this spacer collar, so I made it, learning turning, facing, parting and boring along the way.  This first one was aluminum, and I intend to make another one at some point out of steel, just for the practice using different metals.

It's a very simple little part, but I learned a lot making it.


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## dtsh (Aug 2, 2018)

I would consider thinking about the various projects you want to do, pick one that seems just above your ability and start working on it. For me, this inevitably leads me to situations where I have to stop and make some tooling before I can finish the project. Typically, the stops to make the interim tooling leads me in areas and teaches me skills I hadn't anticipated. When I have a choice of buying or making tooling for a project, I tend to go with making unless the savings are substantial; it may take me a lot longer to get back to my main project, but I tend to learn a lot more in the process.

That said, this is what works for *me* and may not work for, or make sense to, anyone else.


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## WarrenP (Aug 2, 2018)

My first project was the captive nut puzzle. You can do a search on the internet to find instructions.


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## MrWhoopee (Aug 2, 2018)

Identify some simple tools that you might need, then make them. It's more fun to make something useful than it is to practice making something useful.


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## T Bredehoft (Aug 2, 2018)

The only lathe job that needs to be in the "I can do that"   class is thread chasing. Turning an ID is just a matter of engaging feed and stopping. 

Doing the exact same thing 15 times to get a good thread takes practice. There are several things that can go   wrong and only one way to do it right.


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## MarkM (Aug 2, 2018)

How about a test bar for your lathe? Something you ll always need.  In the end you ll have a shaft say ten inches or so (not critical) that can run between centres with two pressed on rings an inch or so from each end a half inch or so thick to check tailstock alignment. You would take a cut on one ring and move to the other and compare your measurement.  True alignment would read the same.  No dimensions are real critical other then the press fit.  A thou. or so. I used 3/4 " for my shaft but makes no diff. Make your own centre in your chuck with the compound. ( take a light cut the next time to true it for the next time you test or need to offset for a taper).  Make your rings whatever you want just have a press fit. Make a bushing to be used to help press each ring on? You Can use your tailstock to press on the rings with care.


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## P. Waller (Aug 2, 2018)

Make a spindle stop for the lathe, this will be mostly lathe work and has a use, nothing beats a spindle stop for repetitive work in a lathe.


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## Creativechipper (Aug 2, 2018)

Not sure what a spindle stop does or is used for or how to make. I see some complex looking spring wrapped stuff when googling it.

 Is it simple?


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## Winegrower (Aug 2, 2018)

Make *another chuck key *for your 4 jaw and learn to use two keys to quickly center any round thing to less than 0.001'


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## P. Waller (Aug 2, 2018)

A spindle stop is a work stop, if making multiple parts of the same length push the cut length through the chuck or collet until it stops, your numbers tell you where 0 is. Face one end clean then flip the part and face to 0 in Z this will give you multiple parts at a known length. 5C collets have an internal thread that allows you to set a collet stop. Note that 5C collets using a drawbar are not dead length, the length will vary from one part to another slightly depending on the stock diameter. There are dead length collet systems available.
A spindle stop is simply a rod that passes through the spindle bore and can be locked in place in order to face and turn at a fixed position.
This is what I use on one of the lathes that I often run, a simple round collar that clamps to the end of the spindle and a hole for the rod stop with set screws to hold it in place. This is the only picture that I have, it is only keeping 7/16" square bars that are 40+" long from whipping around, the normal stop rods are 5/8" round cr steel. All lathe work and a drill press for the tapped holes that are 1/4-20.
Simple as pie and useful.


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## Firstram (Aug 2, 2018)

Winegrower said:


> Make *another chuck key *for your 4 jaw and learn to use two keys to quickly center any round thing to less than 0.001'



^This^
2nd project should be a spring loaded tap follower.


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## P. Waller (Aug 2, 2018)

Firstram said:


> ^This^
> 2nd project should be a spring loaded tap follower.


This I do not understand, please explain 2 chuck keys used at once and how it is an advantage.


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## Bi11Hudson (Aug 2, 2018)

I suppose you could call me lucky(?) in that respect. I knew what a lathe was and roughly what it could do a long time before I got one. Now I have several, with more in my past. The big issue was more a place to keep it than cost. With that said, the first project might be something like a chess set. Brass and aluminium will give good contrast. Brass is expensive though. Make it all from aluminium and blacken one set. That's always a good project even if you don't play chess. Me, personally, I just play at it. But with so many pieces to make mistakes on, what more could you ask.

Then there are the little "tooling" ideas. You don't need something so complex you spend more time figuring it out than making it. Maybe a soft hammer... ... Or that punch you need to drive a nail just so. Most anything you want to buy can be built, given enough time. The opportunity to learn some new technique is wide open.

And finally, from long winded me anyway, is to repair something around the house. The lathe is just another tool, not the "end all" that many make it out to be. Albeit expensive, I will concede. You can turn most any material you want. Even water, though you have to freeze it first. Air now, it might be a problem... ...

Welcome to the hobby, my friend;
Bill Hudson​


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## Creativechipper (Aug 2, 2018)

Wow now the wheels are turning. 
Tooling sounds like the most practical thing to make, I could always use some and less expensive the better!!
 Spring loaded tap follower, I see how that works but the spindle stop just spins my gears, someday I am sure it will sink in. 
 I like the idea of a test bar and have a few diameters of aluminum so I will give that some thought too.
 Thanks for the kind welcome  Bill H. and everyone for the great ideas!!


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## Z2V (Aug 3, 2018)

WarrenP said:


> My first project was the captive nut puzzle. You can do a search on the internet to find instructions.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I’m with Warren here. I made several in different sizes and threads. Right hand, left hand, coarse, fine, 1/4” - 1”

Like @Winegrower , I made a chuck key also. Fun projects. 

Currently working on adapter for the knee crank on my mill so I can use a cordless drill instead of armstrong power to raise and lower the table.

Pick a project and just go at it. You might have to start over or fix a mistake but it’s all a fun learning process.


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## Firstram (Aug 3, 2018)

P. Waller said:


> This I do not understand, please explain 2 chuck keys used at once and how it is an advantage.







This video explains the process, it's worth learning. Dialing something in on the 4 jaw is a necessary skill, it does not need to be frustrating or intimidating.


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## P. Waller (Aug 3, 2018)

My employer saves all of the 4Jaw work for me to do at one time, this is usually 3-4 days per month of work so I am quite familiar with the process.

I do not see the advantage of using 2 keys is all.
For example


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## Firstram (Aug 3, 2018)

You have enough experience that it's second nature, using 2 keys when you're just starting off can help learn cause and effect.


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## CluelessNewB (Aug 3, 2018)

The first thing I made on my Logan 820 when I got it running was a replacement shaft, you can see it lying in the chip pan.  It was almost done at that point only needing to cut two woodruff keys, I did that on the lathe later using a Palmgren milling attachment.  I had not used a lathe since high school back in the early 1970s.


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## MrWhoopee (Aug 3, 2018)

I've been in this a long time. The two chuck key trick was a real eye-opener for me. One of those "why didn't I think of this?" moments. 
Being able to move the opposing jaws simultaneously (and equally) really speeds the process. I made two shorties, so they were matched.


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## ttabbal (Aug 3, 2018)

So, how are you making a chuck key in a lathe? Start from the right size square stock? It's easy with a mill, or even a milling attachment on the lathe. Just not sure how I would do it with only a lathe and "normal" lathe tools. I'm always interested in learning techniques.


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## Creativechipper (Aug 3, 2018)

I was wondering the same, so many items seem to require a mill in addition to a lathe.

Can I mount a mill table vertical on the lathe and accomplish the same thing?


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## RandyM (Aug 3, 2018)

ttabbal said:


> So, how are you making a chuck key in a lathe? Start from the right size square stock? It's easy with a mill, or even a milling attachment on the lathe. Just not sure how I would do it with only a lathe and "normal" lathe tools. I'm always interested in learning techniques.





Creativechipper said:


> I was wondering the same, so many items seem to require a mill in addition to a lathe.
> 
> Can I mount a mill table vertical on the lathe and accomplish the same thing?




Well fellas, I am struggling in the opposite direction. I have a mill but no lathe and I find that I can do everything I want to so far but, it is challenging sometimes to do lathe operations on a mill. Just have to put my mind to it, and sometimes it takes a while, but I do get there in the end. Actually, I have the lathe, I just need to get it functional.


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## ttabbal (Aug 3, 2018)

Creativechipper said:


> I was wondering the same, so many items seem to require a mill in addition to a lathe.
> 
> Can I mount a mill table vertical on the lathe and accomplish the same thing?



There's a reason most of us own a lathe and a mill.   I ran into the same problem. You can do a milling attachment on the lathe, and get an adapter to use milling cutters in the lathe headstock. I've always read not to try holding end mills in the chuck. You can use end mill holders or collet chucks though. Milling attachments have issues with rigidity, so wind up making poor substitutes, but it can be done and works fine if you keep within the limitations. I bought one shortly before I found a mill, so if you want one let me know and I'll make you a deal. 

So, as I see it there are 2 issues here to make a square ended shaft in a lathe, starting from round stock. Without more "fancy" tooling.. 

Indexing the sides
Cutting flats

There are only 4 sides for most chuck keys I've seen, so you can index using the 4 jaws on a 4 jaw chuck against the ways with a square. For cutting, you could use a toolpost mounted grinder. Maybe something like a dremmel tool with a cutoff wheel? You would need some way to prevent the chuck from rotating while cutting/grinding. 

You can also come up with some way to hold the stock in the toolpost and the cutter in the headstock. Perhaps an endmill holder and use a boring bar holder for a QCTP to hold the round stock. Cut one flat and index against it with a square like above, use the set screws to hold it. Probably need light cuts. 

You would want to find the size of the required square and calculate the size to cut so it fits the chuck. So you can use a micrometer to measure against the round to determine proper depth. 


If I were to make one today, I would use a square collet block in the mill. But it's an interesting thought process.


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## P. Waller (Aug 3, 2018)

Had to face and drill the ends a 2" diameter X 110 1/4" long D2 tool steel bar before I left today. Had to remove the spindle stop for this so these pictures will give you a better idea of what it is.

An aluminum round counter bored to fit the end of the spindle and is held by set screws, a 3/4" hole is drilled through to accept the stop rod also held with set screws, the rod itself is 3/4" plain CR steel with a 1/2-13 thread on the working end. The thread allows you to screw adapters on the end because one can not stop a 2" ID tube with a stop that fits through the bore (-: The white plastic piece keeps the rod in the center of the spindle bore and is positioned with 1 set screw. I hope this is a clearer explination for you.



The spindle end






In order to do this afternoons work I held the part in a steady, the chuck and a spindle bushing, a spindle bushing does the same thing as what people here tend to call a "Spider" but is much simpler and requires little adjustment, I use a 3" OD piece of plastic stock that is a sliding fit in the spindle and bore it to a sliding fit for the stock then cross drill and tap on hole for a set screw to keep it in place, simple as pie lathe work and also a useful project for practice



A spindle bushing looks like so, the stop  rod holder is held by the groove in the spindle end but this is not a requirement on a small machine




Make them for different sized stock diameters, I use dozens in various sizes.




Good luck


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## mikey (Aug 3, 2018)

ttabbal said:


> So, how are you making a chuck key in a lathe? Start from the right size square stock? It's easy with a mill, or even a milling attachment on the lathe. Just not sure how I would do it with only a lathe and "normal" lathe tools. I'm always interested in learning techniques.



Add a file to your arsenal!


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## ttabbal (Aug 3, 2018)

mikey said:


> Add a file to your arsenal!




But I was trying to make it way more complicated!!  

I really do need to look into getting some good files though. The ones I have are cheapies. OK to break edges, but not good for much else.


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## royesses (Aug 3, 2018)

ttabbal said:


> But I was trying to make it way more complicated!!
> 
> I really do need to look into getting some good files though. The ones I have are cheapies. OK to break edges, but not good for much else.



Harry J Epstein still has some USA Nicholson in files stock:
https://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/tool-brand/nicholson.html?manufacture_country=7

Roy


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## mikey (Aug 3, 2018)

I would also look at Grobet Swiss and Pferd.


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## Creativechipper (Aug 3, 2018)

ok now I see its like a spider, I thought it looked weird, like the back of the lathe vs the business end. So it's for hanging extra stock out the back of the chuck side. Not sure why I would do that but ok.


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## GunsOfNavarone (Aug 3, 2018)

I'm with you Chipper. So far I made the t-nut for the QCTP. Today I made a release knob for my 20 ton shop press (the hydraulic jack pressure release knob) I really want to make a carriage lock but don't really understand how they 90 degrees angle of the ways is cut into lock on lathe. Really need to work on looking at the lathe differently. I see it as a rotational cutter....for round things. Somehow people make things with right angles all the time!


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## Creativechipper (Aug 3, 2018)

Check out you tube   




 Making metal gaming dice, sheds some light on angles and lathe.


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## GunsOfNavarone (Aug 3, 2018)

Yeah. The t-nut taught me that, but something like a carriage lock??


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## Creativechipper (Aug 3, 2018)

I still have to try the dice.

 Used my power cross feed last night for the 1st time!! WOW, what a smooth finish it left on 1" rnd aluminum face cuts, super smooth. Used a 1/4" carbide tool at about 950rpm, couple drops of mobile one full synthetic..lol
 Then tried out tapping a hole with my new center drill kit and a couple old drill bits for about 3/4" length. No problems encountered, smooth going.

 Really enjoying operating the lathe each night after work and learning new procedures and cuts. I have tried 4 different cutters so far, all worked well, HSS and carbide tipped indexable tools.
 I will have to make a project soon and get some more skills under the belt.


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## P. Waller (Aug 4, 2018)

Creativechipper said:


> ok now I see its like a spider, I thought it looked weird, like the back of the lathe vs the business end. So it's for hanging extra stock out the back of the chuck side. Not sure why I would do that but ok.


You do it when the part is long and there is no other way, some day you will have to do work on the ends of a long part, this is one way to do it.

When that time arrives as it surely will you will already know one method of doing so, this will save a good deal of head scratching.


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## Creativechipper (Aug 4, 2018)

Thanks Waller, I know what you saying, someday when the time comes and I have been around a few more lathes than my own it will really click. I like looking at new things and constantly learning.  Like that tantric replaceable tip tool, never heard of such a thing. So I googled all kinds of threads/info on it. But not being able to hold something and see it work and have a knowledgeable person walk you through it, takes longer to really understand the benefits and working applications.

Thanks for being patient, I am learning a lot of new stuff lately


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## P. Waller (Aug 4, 2018)

tantric replaceable tip tool

I have been at it for a few decades and haven't the faintest clue what that is (-:


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## ttabbal (Aug 4, 2018)

For cutting fluid on aluminum, try WD40. It works well, better than motor oil likely. 

For other metals you might try pipe threading oil from the hardware store. I hear that works well. I've had decent luck with tap magic since I bought a cheap lifetime supply.


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## Creativechipper (Aug 4, 2018)

Here's what I found on the tangent tool....https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/tangential-tool-holder.25107/

  Sounds like some people love it and others not so much...Not sure what to think of it at this point. Sounds interesting


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## MrWhoopee (Aug 4, 2018)

ttabbal said:


> So, how are you making a chuck key in a lathe? Start from the right size square stock? It's easy with a mill, or even a milling attachment on the lathe. Just not sure how I would do it with only a lathe and "normal" lathe tools. I'm always interested in learning techniques.



Okay, just spit-balling here:
End mill held in collet. Lacking a collet, make an endmill holder by clamping a piece of round stock in the chuck, drill and ream to fit endmill. Drill and tap for set-screw  (hand drill, drill press, or use crotch center to cross drill in lathe). Re-chuck with endmill installed. Concentricity not important.
Clamp stock for chuck key in QCTP tool holder, center up and mill a flat of appropriate depth all the way down one side.
Reposition stock in tool holder with  the flat against the bottom, center up and mill a second flat as far back as needed for engagement.
Reposition stock in tool holder with original flat against the back of the slot, center up and mill third flat all the way down.
Reposition stock in tool holder with third flat on bottom of tool holder and mill fourth flat as far back as needed for engagement.

Trying to write this while drawing pictures in the air.
Where threre's a will.....


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## P. Waller (Aug 4, 2018)

Creativechipper said:


> Here's what I found on the tangent tool....https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/tangential-tool-holder.25107/
> 
> Sounds like some people love it and others not so much...Not sure what to think of it at this point. Sounds interesting


That is better, the words tantric and tangent have wildy different definitions.
I believe what people often call "tangent" tooling is better known as the very old process of skiving.
A form tool cuts at the tangent of the work, often on the bottom, the largest diameters are cut first then the other diameters until the smallest is reached, the tool is not cutting across its entire width  which can cause considerable part deflection and chatter if not part breakage.


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## Creativechipper (Aug 4, 2018)

So I have gathered a few metal rnd rods to use. Steel rods in the center out of copier machines, plus the dirty aluminum rod and the 2 aluminum tubes on the rt. Biggest is the 1.25 aluminum rod and largest steel rod about 1/2" diameter.


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## Creativechipper (Aug 4, 2018)

Whoops, wrong word tangent was the word I was meaning originally.

 Some very interesting and simple tool design, yet very cool and practical.

 What tool design do you use thats versatile and affordable?


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## Creativechipper (Aug 4, 2018)

Rediscovered some 10-12' long pcs of metal round rod in my back yard. I have no idea what they are from or for.
 Was thinking taking a hack saw over to one and cutting off a 10" pc.
Any ideas?


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## francist (Aug 4, 2018)

What about a simple lidded container? Nothing fancy, and don't worry about threading the lid right away but just make it a nice snug fit. Something like this:




It would involve number of steps, some accurate measuring, and subsequent efforts to hit those measurements in order to work nicely. In other words, there is a penalty if it's not on the money! 

You'd need to be able to drill a hole using the tailstock, ideally bore the inside but it's ok if you can't right now, and part off on the lathe.  But you'll notice it's perfectly sized to fit your aluminum rod....

You may want to flesh the dimensions out some unless you're used to working on the fly, but that's easy enough for you.

-frank


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## Creativechipper (Aug 4, 2018)

Thanks Frank,

 This I totally understand and will attempt right away!! I think I have all the stuff to accomplish this.


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## francist (Aug 4, 2018)

A "wiggle bar" would make good use out of one of those printer rods. I don't know what kind of steel they are, but all the ones I've used have turned very nicely.

So what's a wiggle bar? Simply a rod with a point turned accurately on one end and a centre drill hole in the other. You can use it for centring work in a chuck where the outside of the work might not be a useful reference. If you have a centre punch mark the pointy end of the bar rests in the mark, the other end is supported on a tailstock centre, and an indicator placed against the bar near the chuck. When the bar registers zero runout (or as close as you can get it) on your indicator as you rotate the chuck by hand, the centre punch mark on the stock is centred in the chuck. This is also useful for when you want to purposefully offset work in the chuck, such as a crankshaft lobe or something.

I don't know if it's really called a wiggle bar or something else, I just heard it called that and continue to do so myself. Here's a sketch, dimensions are not critical:




-frank


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## Creativechipper (Aug 4, 2018)

I have started the 1" round container, any larger will not go through the spindle, so I down sized slightly.

 May need some boring bar insight. My boring bar holder has a 3/4 hole( qctp tool holder)  my boring bar is more like 1/2" and has carbide replaceable tips. How do I hold in QCTP, regular holder or do I need some sort of plug?


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## GunsOfNavarone (Aug 4, 2018)

francist said:


> A "wiggle bar" would make good use out of one of those printer rods. I don't know what kind of steel they are, but all the ones I've used have turned very nicely.
> 
> So what's a wiggle bar? Simply a rod with a point turned accurately on one end and a centre drill hole in the other. You can use it for centring work in a chuck where the outside of the work might not be a useful reference. If you have a centre punch mark the pointy end of the bar rests in the mark, the other end is supported on a tailstock centre, and an indicator placed against the bar near the chuck. When the bar registers zero runout (or as close as you can get it) on your indicator as you rotate the chuck by hand, the centre punch mark on the stock is centred in the chuck. This is also useful for when you want to purposefully offset work in the chuck, such as a crankshaft lobe or something.
> 
> ...


is one end tapered (M.T.) To fit tailstock?


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## francist (Aug 4, 2018)

I've seen sleeves that will adapt the larger hole size to the smaller shank, much like using a sleeve to adapt a pulley with a large hole to a motor with a smaller shaft. Don't suppose you got one of those with the holders? There are also some holders with a vee notch longitudinally in the bottom so that a round bar nests in there.


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## royesses (Aug 4, 2018)

Creativechipper said:


> I have started the 1" round container, any larger will not go through the spindle, so I down sized slightly.
> 
> May need some boring bar insight. My boring bar holder has a 3/4 hole( qctp tool holder)  my boring bar is more like 1/2" and has carbide replaceable tips. How do I hold in QCTP, regular holder or do I need some sort of plug?



Is your bar round or square? My qctp has a tool holder that will hold round or square bars. V notch bottom.



Also my round only boring bar holder has a split bushing so it will hold 2 different size round only bars. You could turn a bushing and split it.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Roy


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## francist (Aug 4, 2018)

GunsOfNavarone said:


> is one end tapered (M.T.) To fit tailstock?



No, just a small centre drill divot. It needs freedom of motion to swivel around (pivot, gimbal) on the support. You can use a spring loaded tap follower between the bar and the tailstock to supply a bit of pressure, but it's not required.

Edit: sorry if my little sketch looks like a tapered end, tough to do the "finger sketch on iPad" thing with any real degree of accuracy sometimes!


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## Creativechipper (Aug 4, 2018)

The boring holder is round 3/4", Also a bottom V in one of the holders. My boring bar is round with two flat spots 180 offset from each other running the length of bar. I think I can get it in the v notch holder.
 I want to try and use the boring bar to finish up the inside diameter. I used my center drills to the largest size #5 so far. Then used a drill bit size 3/8".
 With the boring bar I think I can turn a larger diameter from the shoulder down by 1/8".


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## ttabbal (Aug 4, 2018)

If it has flats, you can use a regular tool holder. Use the thickest bar that will fit, minimize stick-out.


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## Creativechipper (Aug 4, 2018)

Will do, thanks.


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## Creativechipper (Aug 5, 2018)

Body came out great, made two cuts on the lid before the wife said bed time. I wont be able to work on it until Monday evening.
Thanks for all the help and support.


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## yendor (Aug 5, 2018)

If yu own a Mill as well a pair of Machinist Jacks comes to mind as a useful pratice project.


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## GunsOfNavarone (Aug 5, 2018)

yendor said:


> If yu own a Mill as well a pair of Machinist Jacks comes to mind as a useful pratice project.


Man, I would love to have 4 machinist's jacks. I have no clue on specs for those...where's finger drawing guy when you need him?? Seriously though, any rough measurements for these? I know they lift a ridiculous amount of weight, hardened steel bolts for sure, anything special about the base?


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## WarrenP (Aug 7, 2018)

You can buy a attachment to do milling on your lathe... only thing is they aren't that fantastic. Rigidity is very hard to accomplish with them so its hard to be to accurate and you can usually only work with small parts.


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## Creativechipper (Aug 7, 2018)

Got the little 1" round aluminum container roughed out. 
 I think it needs a little finishing work.  
 Maybe an O ring on the neck and some grooves or decorative embellishments for style.
 Let me know what you think.
 The boring of the holes and getting the bottom of the hole flat is tough, maybe I need a different tool. I just used a indexable carbide boring bar.
 The lid fits fairly tight, creates a little vacuum pressure and snaps closed on the last 1/8" before touching the base.


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## GunsOfNavarone (Aug 7, 2018)

Nice! That nipple at the top, is your cutting tool centered or was that cut iff, not faced? 
I'm always carrying meds....I should have a fancy container!


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## Creativechipper (Aug 7, 2018)

Thanks!!
That was just the nipple after cut off, I haven't faced it yet.


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## royesses (Aug 7, 2018)

Looking good! If you have a knurler you could knurl the top and a part of the bottom. Then round off the top and chamfer the bottom of the bottle. Maybe grind a round nose form tool for some decorative grooves on the main bottle portion. Next bottle needs a screw on top. Lots of fun when you make something useful on your new lathe.  Threading is very easy to do single point if you read some of the tips and tricks by the pro's on the forum. They have helped me  a tremendous amount. Your first knurl or thread gives a huge amount of confidence and a great feeling of accomplishment.

Roy


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## francist (Aug 7, 2018)

I think it was Duncan Phyfe who, on the subject of good design, said something to effect of ".. It's not what you can put on, but what you can leave off..."  Your call though.

I think you've done well for your first foray into lathe work! The finish on your bore looks pretty nice as does the outside of the neck. Truly flat bottoms on the bores are not the easiest to achieve and may very well be limited by your tool choice right now. Given any thought to if and how you might finish turn the outsides? A very slight, read five degrees maybe, angle to the top might look interesting as would some very slight chamfers.

Good job so far though, I'll bet you learned a bunch already in just this little thing!

-frank


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## Creativechipper (Aug 7, 2018)

Thanks, guys!!
 Feels great to have something to show for my efforts.
 The lid taught me a lot, like start with the hole not the top. I started to turn the lid top 1st. Luckily only made a few cuts and went to bed. The next day I realized boring a hole after cutting it off the round stock was probably a bad idea.

 Definitely want to learn some threading, would love it to have a threaded opening. Next time!!

 I was thinking of doing some sort of decorative angles or curves on it. Not super sure how or what tools yet? I still need a grinding wheel, using files at the moment to clean up edges on tools. I do have a 3/4 horse pump motor 3400rpm, just waiting to be used on a project. It was going to be a reloading case prep motor for trimming brass cases to reload 223.

 Thanks again for the help to get me this far and the ideas going forward!!!


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## royesses (Aug 7, 2018)

I use a Sinclair ultimate stainless case trimmer powered by a Ryobi cordless screwdriver and a Lyman case prep express to prepare case - 125 rpm .1 HP. I can't imagine a 3/4 HP 3400 rpm case prep machine. That sounds like a 350 blown Chevy small block lawnmower, too much for me. Just kidding. The pump motor might be used to make a single stone grinder?

It sounds as though you are learning very quickly. Keep on doing it!

Roy


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## Creativechipper (Aug 7, 2018)

I was looking at replicating or using the Giraud carbide tri way trimmer.    http://giraudtool.com/giraud-tri-way-trimmer.html
Recommended rpm is 1000-3500 so a variable speed set up off a 3500rpm motor was recommended on a couple builds. They say around 3000rpm and they run fast and smooth.
 I couldn't stand doing 223 cases by hand. I don't shoot them fast but I do enjoy shooting all day when I go target shooting.
 I don't have a lot of power tools or tooling really, figured with a lathe I will be able to make some tools and other projects.
 Looking forward to learning threading and lots more.


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## royesses (Aug 7, 2018)

Creativechipper said:


> I was looking at replicating or using the Giraud carbide tri way trimmer.    http://giraudtool.com/giraud-tri-way-trimmer.html
> Recommended rpm is 1000-3500 so a variable speed set up off a 3500rpm motor was recommended on a couple builds. They say around 3000rpm and they run fast and smooth.
> I couldn't stand doing 223 cases by hand. I don't shoot them fast but I do enjoy shooting all day when I go target shooting.
> I don't have a lot of power tools or tooling really, figured with a lathe I will be able to make some tools and other projects.
> Looking forward to learning threading and lots more.



Thanx for the great reply. I had forgot about the Giraud trimmer. If you have a lot of brass that is an efficient way to go. 

Roy


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## tq60 (Aug 8, 2018)

Make a spool.

Sometimes called 2 collar test.

This is a simple tool for adjusting tail stock.

First time while making you adjust tail stock then once made use with dial indicator and can be used for life on any lathe.

Locate some nice looking material such as stainless or other good looking round stock maybe 2 to 3 inches diameter and 4 or so inches long.

Face off both ends and center drill.

Take your time as it is a precision tool.

Now remove meat in the middle so it looks like a spool.

Remove maybe 1/3 total diameter leaving rings at each end maybe 1/4 or so length.

Next locate a chunk of 1/2 round and place in Chuck and make a center on it as it now will be dead nuts in Chuck.

Place part between centers and clamp tight.

Paint the part while spinning with a felt tip marker as it makes it easier to see when full cut is complete.

Take light cuts across total length until all ink gone.

Check diameter of both rings.

If not same adjust tail stock offset a bit less than 1/2 difference and repeat.

Again Paint and very light cuts.

When both are exactly same reverse in lathe and repeat as above but now very light and finish cut so surface is polish ready.

Should still be equal diameters.

Now to use for future tail stock alignment you repeat making the center in Chuck but instead of cutting you place a dial indicator in tool holder and adjust tail stock offset as needed.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


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## MarkM (Aug 19, 2018)

Funny just came back to this thread to add pics regarding a lathe test bar I mentioned earlier and the post above talks about it.  Heres my version and a reason to have one.
I had a job to do and clean up some drums from a 1932 Ford pickup.  Two were given to me with the hub still on and didn t want to mess with the hub as it would open up a can of worms and the customer said he would deal with it.  Anyways I couldn t get it dialed in the four jaw with the cast hub and confident it was secure so I made up some bushing for the bearing races to run on a shaft.  Intead of just making a close fit I decided to make a mandrel out of the shaft with a taper for future use and to help with drive also.  The taper went from .9985 to 1.0015 give or take.   Use the test bar to re align.  You can use a dead centre in the spindle but it saves time to just take a cut in the 3 jaw at included 60 degrees each time you use it to be running true.  You could expand on this and cut threads on each end to help press your collars on.  Make sure you choose a thread to have clearance for your collars to pass the threads. Take a few thou off each end to line your collar up to make it easier to press it on.  Sharp sharp tool as it will be friction drive and light cuts of two to four thou.  A little oil on your dead centre in the tailstock. Take a cut and move over to the other collar take a cut and adjust until they have the same measurement.  The stainless was given to me from a propshaft so a shop tool for the future with the spacers and such.


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## GunsOfNavarone (Aug 19, 2018)

MarkM said:


> Funny just came back to this thread to add pics regarding a lathe test bar I mentioned earlier and the post above talks about it.  Heres my version and a reason to have one.
> I had a job to do and clean up some drums from a 1932 Ford pickup.  Two were given to me with the hub still on and didn t want to mess with the hub as it would open up a can of worms and the customer said he would deal with it.  Anyways I couldn t get it dialed in the four jaw with the cast hub and confident it was secure so I made up some bushing for the bearing races to run on a shaft.  Intead of just making a close fit I decided to make a mandrel out of the shaft with a taper for future use and to help with drive also.  The taper went from .9985 to 1.0015 give or take.   Use the test bar to re align.  You can use a dead centre in the spindle but it saves time to just take a cut in the 3 jaw at included 60 degrees each time you use it to be running true.  You could expand on this and cut threads on each end to help press your collars on.  Make sure you choose a thread to have clearance for your collars to pass the threads. Take a few thou off each end to line your collar up to make it easier to press it on.  Sharp sharp tool as it will be friction drive and light cuts of two to four thou.  A little oil on your dead centre in the tailstock. Take a cut and move over to the other collar take a cut and adjust until they have the same measurement.  The stainless was given to me from a propshaft so a shop tool for the future with the spacers and such.



just when you think you understand something....
Ok, I thought the barbell test shape was done mounted in which with no tailstock support. Am I seeing a dead center in chuck and dead center in tailstock? What even drives material? I have to be misunderstanding something?


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## MarkM (Aug 19, 2018)

Sorry it s just a pc of stock in the chuck.  Use the compound to set and cut the angle.  It s a dead centre in the tailstock with no bearings to enter in the equation like a live centre.  It just friction drive off the stock in the chuck.  True it each  time you use it Rather than taking the chuck off for a dead centre.  Just saves time.  Sharp tool.  The one time to just do your grinding and don t put the radius on the leading edge.


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## Creativechipper (Aug 19, 2018)

Love all the lathe pics!!

 I will try the cut test once I can level out my lathe a lil more. Right now I know its un even but have no way of adjusting it.
 I am looking into 2 pcs of steel plate, one for each end of the lathe and then putting some leveling feet on the corners of the steel plate. Then I can make the adjustments I need to get better cuts.
  I see a dial indicator in action is it mounted to the lathe? I like the idea of a couple read outs separate from the lathe knobs to read actual movement. Just haven't figured out a mounting system yet.


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## MarkM (Aug 19, 2018)

The dial indicator is with a magnetic base.  It is being used to help align the tailstock to see my movement Two set screws will lock the tailstock and on most lathes two will move it. .001" will result to .002 on the measurement roughly.  Not a bad idea just to get used to the knobs and get a good grasp on backlash.  A Screw won t lie and can be accurate.


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## 9t8z28 (Aug 22, 2018)

A good thing to practice is taking finishing cuts while you are roughing especially if it’s a mystery or unknown material.  Say you have a 1” diameter part that you need to turn down to .75”.   I will first begin by taking a finishing pass and playing with the speeds and feeds.   As the diameter decreases from roughing passes I will again take a finishing pass at say .8”.    Take notice to How light of a cut you can take  and still get a good finish with your particular insert or tool.   As you’re roughing you can also try different tools and also try a finishing pass to see if you can get a better finish.   If you have both high-speed steel and carbide Tooling  try them both.   Also take note to how much  material came off in relation to what the dial says should be coming off the part.   Take measurements frequently and compare.  Doing all this will help you when it gets down to the final diameter.   As you become more familiar with your machine and what it’s capable of you will become more efficient  and it will show in the finished product .


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## BaronJ (Aug 23, 2018)

Hi Guys,

Some really good suggestions here !
However, I would say learn how to properly grind HSS lathe tools.  Without properly ground, sharp lathe tools you won't get anywhere fast.

Now I know that some of you will say, why bother when the manufacturer of carbide tool bits has done it for you...
I agree that carbide is getting better and the need for more powerful machines is becoming less, but if you want good finishes with precision sizes on a lower powered machine,  HSS is the go to.


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