# Another Atlas 6" Mk.2 Survey Reply Checking In...



## 56type (Aug 22, 2016)

1. Serial # and location... serial 002866 located on the end of the bed.
2. Model# and Company... Model # 10100 Atlas.
3. Original & current color... Blue (doesn't appear to have been repainted).
4. Headstock & Leg material...Cast iron.
5. Spindle bearing type... Timken roller bearing.
6. Compound slide style... Flat.
7. Headstock casting # and Date... Headstock casting 383-020 Q1 & Date 11/2/77.
8. Type compound feed screw thrust bearing plate... 2 screw oval.
9. Rack version... 5 screw & 2 pin.
10. Apron style... ( don't know what an apron is yet, Sorry).
11. Date, place & cost... Date purchased 08/18/'16 in Richmond, KY from an online estate sale for $360

  Machine condition appears to be good with little use. It just seems to have sat for quite some time and all the lube had turned to sticky crud. Some adjustments were needed to get things up & running and I'm still learning what needs to be done...


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## wa5cab (Aug 23, 2016)

Thanks.

The lathe carriage (not including all of the removable parts mounted to it) consists of two parts, the saddle and the apron.  The saddle is the top part that sits and slides on the ways (bed).  The apron is the front or vertical part that hangs down and to which most of the carriage and cross slide controls are mounted.

On all Atlas/Craftsman 6", 9", early 10" and early 12", and most other badge small lathes, the saddle and apron are cast (or machined) as one part.  On the late Atlas 10" and both versions of the later Atlas/Craftsman 12", and most other badge larger lathes, the saddle and apron are two separate parts (usually cast).

On all Atlas/Craftsman 6", 9", 10" and 12" except for late production Atlas 6" MK2, the mesh between the two reduction gears in the carriage traverse (moves left or right) drive is fixed.  The traverse handwheel is mounted on a shaft that goes through a hole drilled in the apron.  On the late 6" MK2, the shaft goes through an eccentric mounted in a larger hole in the apron.  Rotating the eccentric varies the mesh between the gear on the end of the handwheel shaft and the larger gear that it drives.  The eccentric is visible behind the handwheel, as are the heads of two screws that lock the adjustment in place.


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## westsailpat (Aug 23, 2016)

I think for $360. you did well , especially with cast iron legs  . When I got my machine , a older model 101 07301 Craftsman it also had not been used in a long time and everything was stuck . Actually that turned out to be a good thing because it made me do a complete disassembly .  Did you get any tooling with it ?
http://www.lathes.co.uk/craftsman6inchmk2/


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## 56type (Aug 24, 2016)

westsailpat,

 Just the basic lathe with a 4-jaw chuck and a 1/2"in. Craftsman drill chuck on a somewhat long extension. It's also missing the toolpost...


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## 56type (Aug 24, 2016)

wa5cab,

Here's a couple of pics of the apron and it's gearing...Hope this helps ID it.


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## westsailpat (Aug 24, 2016)

56 , in another post you asked "what tooling do I need ?" I would like ask what type of work are you planning ? For me I had fun doing a tear down and clean up then build back , making a stand , getting it adjusted correctly . I still need to replace the headstock bushings . And your machine reminds me , I need to make handles for my machine as mine are almost all broken off .


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## wa5cab (Aug 25, 2016)

56type,

OK.  Thanks.  That is the early apron.  And it and all other parts that you listed is consistent with the serial number.  So odds are that all parts are original to that lathe.

On the drill chuck, you really need to remove that long arbor and replace it with a standard 1MT drill chuck arbor to match the hole in the back side of the chuck.  I can't tell for certain whether the hole is tapered or threaded.  Determine that first.  And also the diameter of the longest part of the arbor.


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## 56type (Aug 25, 2016)

westsailpat,

  Mostly plan on doing small parts for hobby gunsmithing. Small press fit pins, axis pins, gas pistons, and muzzle nuts/brakes kinda like this one...





Some parts are no longer available and finding correct replacements or restoring missing pieces can be a pain and expensive depending on the part(s). Also making some of my own parts would let me try new ideas for muzzle brakes and flash hiders.


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## 56type (Aug 25, 2016)

wa5cab,

The drill chuck is threaded. I'm just unsure if the arbor it was mounted on is one or two pieces. If the long threaded portion of the extension could be removed from the arbor I may already have one piece (arbor) or two pieces (drill chuck & arbor).


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## westsailpat (Aug 25, 2016)

56 , haha muzzle brakes . I used to make those back in the 80's for a Co. named Weatherby , Weatherby called it a Accubrake . I made them by the hundreds a month for about 3yrs'. and a lot of other parts too . The muzzle brakes were the only part I could make money on , all the other parts were total losers . So here is what the geniuses did , they found a shop to make the brake a little cheaper (I made it for $10. ea ) but the other shop would not touch the other stuff . Weatherby couldn't believe I didn't want to still make the other stuff .


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## wa5cab (Aug 25, 2016)

Pat,

Typical bean counters.  Always fouling their own nest.

56type,

OK.  The drill chuck is threaded.  Hold it in your spindle chuck roughly centered.  Wrap the chuck sleeve in several layers of paper to protect its finish.  As the direction that you need to turn the arbor to remove it is also the direction that will loosen your spindle chuck, block up under the lower two spindle chuck jaws with wood blocks and take the load on the front way.  If the 1MT part of the arbor is tanged, you can turn it with an adjustable (AKA Crescent) wrench.  If you are lucky, the 1MT part will break loose first.  If it does, then use a pipe wrench on the straight part.  Otherwise, just use a pipe wrench on the straight part .  If the 1MT part isn't tanged, I don't know how you'll get the arbor apart.  You could try putting a 2MT to 1MT sleeve in the spindle and and the 1MT arbor in the sleeve and using a pipe wrench on the straight part.


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## 56type (Aug 25, 2016)

wa5cab,

The drill chuck threaded off easily by hand, was only on the threaded shaft handtight. The MT1 & threaded shaft are a different story as the tang portion is threaded internally. Not sure if the threaded shaft and arbor are one piece or not...


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## wa5cab (Aug 26, 2016)

Well, the chuck is salvaged, anyway.  But I don't understand the part your photo just above shows.  The end that screwed into the chuck should have had male threads.  The end that went into the tailstock ram looked like (and should have been) tapered.  And shouldn't have been threaded, male or female.


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## 56type (Aug 26, 2016)

That's what puzzled me as well. The above pic shows the end of the MT1 shaft that goes into the tailstock. I thought it would be squared off and solid too, also the the male threaded portion of the straight shaft that threaded into the drill chuck seems to be one piece with the MT1 tapered section. Not sure what this piece was originally intended for as the threaded portion is much too long for simply mounting a drill chuck...


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## wa5cab (Aug 26, 2016)

Well, it must have been drilled and tapped for a drawbar.  But I don't recall ever hearing of a machine with a spindle that small (1MT) that was hollow.  You could, of course, cut most of the straight section off and turn and thread the remainder to fit the drill chuck.  But that would be a lot of work and you still have to plug the tapped hole before I would risk using it in the tailstock.  If you can find a 1MT threaded arbor it'll probably be cheaper.


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