# Just bought a 9x3.5 bed Model A lathe



## Jon C. (May 30, 2014)

Hi everyone,
I used to have a old Atlas lathe, but had to leave it behind, so I have been without a lathe since January...
Just picked up my new (old) lathe on Wednesday. I was cleaning it up today, the lathe was taken care of so it is in pretty good shape. The old machinist that sold it to me had had the machine for about 10 years, he was a nice old guy, you could tell he really liked the lathe, but just got to old to use it.
The lathe was made in June 1948, so it was a peace time lathe! The serial number is 10216NAR8 644Z came with a 6" 3 and 4 jaw Cushman chuck, boring bar attachment, a lantern tool holder and a square multi tool-holder, steady rest, and a lot of carbide cutters. I will eventually get another one of those knock off quick change tool posts, so much easier to work with.
I just bought a 5" 3 jaw chuck made by Westcott, looks to be in good shape. Just missed getting a Cushman on ebay for $50, but my esnipe info was off... 
My questions:

Where is the best place to buy machine oil for the bearings, and gears? I heard there was 3 types that South Bend recommends.
The end gear guard cover is rubbing on the end of the spindle, the pivot pin is loose, so it sags down and rubs, any way to fix that?
The clutch won't engage for the power feed, so I guess I need to rebuild/repair that...
Besides that, it is running like a top! I think I will wire in a emergency stop, I don't like having to reach up to the switch, right next to the exposed leather belt! The guardless belts will take a little getting used to, my Atlas was a little more modern, made in "58". 
This is how the lathe looked when I went to pick it up, pre-oiled!


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## pineyfolks (May 30, 2014)

Nice lathe. As far as oil I use 30w non detergent in mine, but that's just me. Your gear cover may be able to be fixed by putting a washer under the hinge. In your pic the selector lever is in the mid position for use with the half nuts for threading. You need to move it up or down for cross and long feeds then tighten the star knob to engage the feed.


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## DoogieB (May 30, 2014)

You can search Ebay and find someone that breaks-down and sells the SB oils into a more usable size for the home shop.

While you are there search for "south bend rebuild manual" and pick one of those up.  Excellent source of information and should tell you most of what you need to know when it's time for the teardown/rebuild.

Like pineyfolks said, make sure you have the apron in gear when you engage the clutch.


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## Kernbigo (May 30, 2014)

30 weight oil is to heavy, order the right oils from bluechipmachineshop.com, very good price


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## Halligan142 (May 30, 2014)

The oils can be bought in gallon form from Enco.  May be a bit more expensive but they'll last you a good long time.  As said before the gear selector lever is in the neutral position in the center.  If for any reason you cannot move it from this position even with rocking the carriage back and forth a little check and make sure the half nut lever is totally disengaged.  There is a safety interlock to prevent the power feed and half nuts to be engaged at the same time.  As far as the hinge pin there are a couple options.  They are soldered in place.  You can reheat it and see if you can remelt the solder.  You can use some J.B. weld to rebond it if its super loose.  You can also drill and tap a hole in the side to use as a set screw to put pressure on the pin to keep it from wiggling.


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## Jon C. (May 30, 2014)

Thanks for the replies. The clutch wasn't engaging in the cross feed or longitudal setting. I watched the YouTube videos on how to work the power feed, before starting it. 
I have some light weight 5-20 motor oil for now, but will look into getting the good stuff. I imagine McMaster Carr will have it. They have one day delivery, as they are in my neck of the woods... 
I worked on the hinge cover, put a allen set screw, tryed the washers, and even tried brass shim material between the bed and the bracket. Turns out the hole for the shaft is worn, so I wll probably mill it out and press in a bushing to tighten it up. Just need to splice a new belt, and I will be ready to go!


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## Kernbigo (May 31, 2014)

30 weight oil is to heavy, order the right oils from bluechipmachineshop.com, very good price,you need a gal. of oil like a hole in the head, this place sells small amounts at a good price. Use auto trans fluid it works great(it is a wet clutch)


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## Jon C. (Jun 1, 2014)

Kernbigo said:


> 30 weight oil is to heavy, order the right oils from bluechipmachineshop.com, very good price,you need a gal. of oil like a hole in the head, this place sells small amounts at a good price. Use auto trans fluid it works great(it is a wet clutch)


Thanks, I bought some oil from these guys, figure it will last me a while...

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Halligan142 said:


> The oils can be bought in gallon form from Enco.  May be a bit more expensive but they'll last you a good long time.  As said before the gear selector lever is in the neutral position in the center.  If for any reason you cannot move it from this position even with rocking the carriage back and forth a little check and make sure the half nut lever is totally disengaged.  There is a safety interlock to prevent the power feed and half nuts to be engaged at the same time.  As far as the hinge pin there are a couple options.  They are soldered in place.  You can reheat it and see if you can remelt the solder.  You can use some J.B. weld to rebond it if its super loose.  You can also drill and tap a hole in the side to use as a set screw to put pressure on the pin to keep it from wiggling.


Yes, clutch was operator error, as they say, "It is cockpit trouble, it isn't the plane but the pilot!"

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Ordered up my phase ll quick change tool holder set, once I get that I am good to go...
May upgrade the motor with a VFD, I will have 3 phase in my new shop when I finish it. Looking to upgrade to a 3/4 or 1 hp motor. For now I will settle for a serpentine belt to replace the old lather one that clicks, clicks clicks...


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