# Lathe chuck jaws



## billb2011 (Nov 5, 2014)

In all the videos I've been watching and all the posts and comments I've read I have not once seen or read about a six jaw chuck being used.
I currently have a six jaw chuck in my machine but have three and four jaw chucks on the shelf. 

Can somebody elaborate on the different type chucks please. Are there benefits to having more jaws? 

Thanks




Bill


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## Holescreek (Nov 5, 2014)

6 jaw chucks are used for fragile or thin walled materials where the clamping pressure needs to be spread over more of the material to keep from deforming it.  I have one and have only used it a couple of times in 6~8 years. 3 jaw chucks are usually the go-to chuck since the jaws move together. If your 3 jaw chuck has an "adjust-tru" feature it will also have 4 set screws around the periphery of the body to adjust the chuck to run on center of the spindle axis. Without this feature the average 3 jaw will get you within .003"~.006".  The 4 jaw chuck takes a little more work to set up because each jaw is adjusted independently but it the most versatile as it allows you to do standard turning work as well as hold odd shaped stock.  There are several more styles of chucks and collet holders too, lots to learn.


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## billb2011 (Nov 5, 2014)

Well that makes sense. I like the six jaw I've been using, it seems to be true. I didn't know what the set screws in the body were for so that helps. I plan on leaving it on there for now since I'm not totally sure how to change it out just yet, although I guess it wouldn't be any different than a three jaw.


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## Bill Gruby (Nov 5, 2014)

Holescreek said:


> 6 jaw chucks are used for fragile or thin walled materials where the clamping pressure needs to be spread over more of the material to keep from deforming it.  I have one and have only used it a couple of times in 6~8 years. 3 jaw chucks are usually the go-to chuck since the jaws move together. If your 3 jaw chuck has an "adjust-tru" feature it will also have 4 set screws around the periphery of the body to adjust the chuck to run on center of the spindle axis. Without this feature the average 3 jaw will get you within .003"~.006".  The 4 jaw chuck takes a little more work to set up because each jaw is adjusted independently but it the most versatile as it allows you to do standard turning work as well as hold odd shaped stock.  There are several more styles of chucks and collet holders too, lots to learn.



 That pretty much says it all. I use a four jaw almost exclusively. It is accurate and you don't worry about the +/- thing. It gets easy to set up with practice. I can have most set ups done in well under 60 seconds. It is also great for the odd shaped part the  others won't hold.

 "Billy G"


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## moxie (Nov 5, 2014)

Between a three and a six jaw, the six would be my first choice.  It gives you better holding power on your part, getting closer to being like a collet then a three jaw.  On mine the jaws scroll in just like the three jaw ones and with the adjust thru feature you can make it run really accurately.  I think the only downside is the extra time it takes to install your reverse jaws.

Dave R.


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## Holescreek (Nov 5, 2014)

The 4 jaw is the most versatile of the bunch, here's an example of it's capabilities. I'm sure there are hundreds of examples on this site though:


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## billb2011 (Nov 5, 2014)

Also was wondering if my 6 jaw chuck is of good quality, it says Buck on it. Anyone ever heard of that?


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## darkzero (Nov 6, 2014)

billb2011 said:


> Also was wondering if my 6 jaw chuck is of good quality, it says Buck on it. Anyone ever heard of that?



Yup, Buck is a well known quality American chuck manufacturer and still in business. Go look up how much some of their current chucks cost, that alone will give you an idea right away.


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## JimDawson (Nov 6, 2014)

billb2011 said:


> Also was wondering if my 6 jaw chuck is of good quality, it says Buck on it. Anyone ever heard of that?



Buck is a top quality chuck.


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## Dr. Duzlittler (Nov 6, 2014)

billb2011 said:


> Also was wondering if my 6 jaw chuck is of good quality, it says Buck on it. Anyone ever heard of that?



Buck is a FINE chuck. What size is it? A 6 Jaw 6" Buck chuck is about a $1000 item, 8" $1500, 10" $2000.


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## Cheeseking (Nov 6, 2014)

Love my Buck 6 jaw!


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## Tony Wells (Nov 6, 2014)

I often wish I did have a 6 jaw. I do a bit of work that is relatively thin walled and it would be nice. I just end up working with soft jaws when needed. About the only other downside to a six jaw is that the contact points are a bit narrower than a comparable sized 3 jaw, allowing them to hit the small diameters, so you may see contact marks a little easier on really soft material. That is, if you are not really taking advantage of the 6 jaw load spread and tightening it like a 3 jaw. That's a minor downside IMO. I'd probably trade up for one given a chance, but never have one on hand just to swap out. I have had the original 3 jaw on one of my lathes since new, it holds 0.001-0.002 all day, and I'd probably never see that if I put the 4 jaw on. I have 2 other lathes for that, which have had chucks changed many times. I guess I could leave a 4 jaw on one of them, but I do very little square work, or need to offset a part. And it's rare that I can't bump a part in close enough to meet TIR specs.

Oh, and Buck? Top shelf, premium chuck. None better.


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## billb2011 (Nov 6, 2014)

Wow,  I had no idea chucks could cost that much. I went out and measured mine and it measure 9" diameter, does that make it an 8 or 10 inch chuck?

Thanks for all the info!


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## JimDawson (Nov 6, 2014)

Buck made 9'' chucks, but they don't seem to be current production.  I found one on ebay for $700.  You have a fine chuck there.


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## billb2011 (Nov 6, 2014)

One more thing, the chuck has alot of surface rust on it from none use for a few years. I got some steel wool and wd40 going to clean up the outside real nice, what else should I do with it without taking it off the lathe, like grease, lube, ect?


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## JimDawson (Nov 6, 2014)

You could oil the scroll a bit, but stand to the side when you turn on the lathe or you will get an oil bath.  Without a tear down and cleaning, there is not much you can do.


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## Cheeseking (Nov 6, 2014)

Cleaning it up on the outside wouldn't hurt.   Main thing you need pristine tho is the taper and ref surface on the back where it mounts to the spindle.  Always take care to wipe any chips/ monkey schnizzle from that area on the chuck and spindle when removing and replacing chucks.   Also if its a D-xx camlock mount usually theres an index mark so you can mount it the same orientation every time.  I like to remove the jaws frequently to brush out any small chips  that work their way into the scroll and jaw slots.    Had a debate here awhile ago with respect to grease/oil/dry in the chuck.   My take is this:  internally meaning the chuck key pinion gears and the back side gear face of the scroll, grease is good.    The jaws, slots and scroll I run dry.   Why because the chips cling to grease and oil, makes regular cleaning a pain and I hate oil or grease slinging out at me.  With it dry i can remove the jaws and brush out the scroll, slots and jaws very easily after every use.   My chucks run smooth as silk. 
As far as "wear" goes running dry,  this is hobby use.  The amount of wear in a quality chuck kept nice and clean will be seriously negligible.   The only thing better would be to very lightly grease the slots and scroll and clean frequently.


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## billb2011 (Nov 6, 2014)

Sounds like very good advise and makes a lot of sense. Now I'm really going to sound like a noob and ask how can I tell how it is mounted to the spindle? I am assuming its threaded but I have never taken a chuck off before. Can someone explain the process? Thanks everybody for the help, I'm glad I joined the forum you guys are a wealth of knowledge.


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## Cheeseking (Nov 6, 2014)

What is the make /model of your lathe??  
Maybe snap a pic of the chuck from the top and side  by the headstock and post them here.


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## billb2011 (Nov 6, 2014)

My lathe is a Rockwell 14". Cant get pictures at the moment.


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## Cheeseking (Nov 6, 2014)

Wow a Rockford.   How old is she?  1930s or 40s maybe 2-1/2" x 6 TPI threaded spindle.   The chuck unscrews but Im not exactly sure of the procedure.   Someone here will surely chime in how to unscrew it properly.


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## Holescreek (Nov 6, 2014)

Rockwell used a couple different mounting systems. Get a pic of the area behind the chuck.


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## billb2011 (Nov 6, 2014)

Here:

photos had bad link.


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## Dr. Duzlittler (Nov 7, 2014)

Enco still sells Buck 6 Jaw, here's a link. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=319-9616&PMPXNO=19527683&PARTPG=INLMK32


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## Holescreek (Nov 7, 2014)

Looks like an L00 to me. (I have an L00 on my traytop) Ideally you should have a spanner wrench that fits the holes. As you're standing in front of the lathe turning the collar away from you toward the back of the lathe loosens the collar.  I use a brass hammer on the end of my wrench to give it a couple of taps when loosening/final tightening.

The holes on your collar look really shallow to me (could just be the photo).   Be careful with the collar, it only comes off by removing the entire spindle.


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## Holescreek (Nov 7, 2014)




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## billb2011 (Nov 7, 2014)

Thanks a lot all. Now the hunt for the wrench, I'm sure its around somewhere I remember putting several spanners in a drawer just can't remember which one.


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## Tony Wells (Nov 7, 2014)

When you remove it, you could utilize the ram of the tailstock to hold it while you run the spanner nut off. Chuck lightly, with protection if you want, and tighten the lock just enough to keep it from tipping. It will handle the weight fine, and as you drag the ts back you can just grab the chuck if you feel it is no physical strain for you or rig a lift. Many people put a board under the chuck to protect the ways just in case things get away and the chuck falls.


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