# A hand held drill chuck that doesn't s*%k



## WobblyHand (Jun 8, 2020)

While making some holes in the bottom of my base of my mill stand, I had the drill bit slip in the chuck of my trusty old Craftsman battery powered drill.  This is the second time this has happened, and it's kind of irritating.  Hold that, more like infuriating.  The chuck tore a gouge in the shank of the bit.  The keyless chuck is a little too small for me to grab and tighten well.  Not only is there a gouge, but some of the metal is more like a burr that is at a diameter greater than the shank.

Are there replacement chucks that don't slip as much, or at least don't tear up a drill shank?  Or should I just go looking for a replacement hand held drill?  I'd be irritated to buy a new drill, as this year I bought a nice Lithium 5AH battery pack for it.  I've used the drill a lot, and amazingly I'm still on the first charge.  Just recently went from 4 leds on to 3.5 leds on.

Is this really a chuck problem, or a drill bit problem?

Can one save the drill bits?  Put them in a 4J on a lathe and turn down the burr?  Something else?


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## darkzero (Jun 8, 2020)

Rohm replacement drill chucks are usually good for hand held drills. Not too long ago I finally replaced the chuck on my Milwaukee drill. But my model was known to have issues with the chuck. Mine would only act up sometimes unlike others but I finally got fed up with it. I just went with a newer MW chuck cause I didn't want to spend a whole lot of money. Feels like a completely different drill now.

I've had cordless drills of various brands chew up drill bits. For me it tend to only happen with larger drill bits, like 3/8" to 1/2" & depends on what I'm drilling. No need to use a lathe to turn down the burrs. I just stone or file down the burrs. These days I have a dedicated drill bit set (beater set) for use with my cordless drills for that very reason. And the set I use now has 3 flat shanks on them so no more worrying about chewing up the shanks.


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## mikey (Jun 8, 2020)

I agree - Rohm makes good Chuck's.


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## WobblyHand (Jun 8, 2020)

Both my 25/64 and 1/2 drill bits have shank scars now.  It happens when the bit grabs, at breakthrough on "thin" metal. (1/8")

I have a Rohm keyless on my lathe, due to @mikey 's advice.  It's pretty nice, but a little long.

This drill being a Craftsman, is pretty old, but it keeps on going.  No lights, just a couple of bubble levels.  The after market lithium battery pack, has proven to be quite nice.  I'll have to try to look up what kind of taper it has.

Well - the chuck is non-standard.  The part is NLA from searspartsdirect.  The chuck appears to be screwed into the shaft. Drat.  Guess this abomination of mine is getting retired to wood and hex shank bits.  What a disappointment, especially after sinking money into a new battery and charger.

Anyone know of a good quality li-on drill?


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## darkzero (Jun 8, 2020)

Rohm chucks for machine tools & hand held drills are completely different. Keyless chucks for handheld drills (these days) have a ratcheting lock mechanism built into them.

Just because Craftsman no longer offers a replacement chuck doesn't mean much. Hand held drill chucks are almost always threaded mount. The chuck itself is usually 1/2"-20 RH thread & there is usually a locking screw that is a LH thread. Open the jaws & peak down inside. Newer Milwaukee drills have 9/16" threaded chucks now, not sure if other brands will follow.

A Rohm keyless chuck for hand held drills is like $40 but there are other cheaper alternatives. If you want to replace your chuck, it's not hard. Remove the LH locking screw. Then chuck up a big hex key to unscrew the chuck from the spindle (RH). Verify thread size before ordering.


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## WobblyHand (Jun 8, 2020)

Saw the screw in the chuck.  Need to put the chuck in a vise to get the screw out.  Otherwise, the chuck twists in my hand while trying to unscrew the screw.  The chuck ergonomics are such that I can't grab the smooth metal part firmly enough.  Even tried some work gloves to help with grip - no go.  I'll try putting it in a vise (with some rubber pads) tomorrow.  It would be good to save this.


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## Aukai (Jun 8, 2020)

My Milwaukee keyless, cordless locks on the bit all the time now. I think it is happening from the bit getting caught on the break through. You didn't hear it from me, but a pipe wrench on the chuck is how a friend get's it unstuck....


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## darkzero (Jun 8, 2020)

Also, keep in mind that a brand new cordless drill may not guarantee not boogering up drill bit shanks. May be better but they'll most likely also have a lot more power than your Craftsman. Even my old Dewalt Nicad drill could "snap your wrist" so to speak if it grabbed & don't have a good grip. My current MW is way more powerful.

Really you should be using step drills/uni bits for drilling sheet/thin metal. Will leave a much cleaner hole & less likely to grab.

IMO your Craftsman is worth saving, especially since you just bought a new battery for it. Me, if it had already gave me money's worth I'd get a new one. Models these days from any of the common name brands will be much better. Even the less expensive brands like Ryobi or Ridgid.

I suspect if you do get a new one you may never use your old one anymore. I still have my old Dewalt XRP. I bought a battery adapter so I could use my MW batteries in it. But still it never gets used cause I'd rather use my MW.


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## WobblyHand (Jun 8, 2020)

darkzero said:


> Rohm chucks for machine tools & hand held drills are completely different. Keyless chucks for handheld drills (these days) have a ratcheting lock mechanism built into them.
> 
> Just because Craftsman no longer offers a replacement chuck doesn't mean much. Hand held drill chucks are almost always threaded mount. The chuck itself is usually 1/2"-20 RH thread & there is usually a locking screw that is a LH thread. Open the jaws & peak down inside. Newer Milwaukee drills have 9/16" threaded chucks now, not sure if other brands will follow.
> 
> A Rohm keyless chuck for hand held drills is like $40 but there are other cheaper alternatives. If you want to replace your chuck, it's not hard. Remove the LH locking screw. Then chuck up a big hex key to unscrew the chuck from the spindle (RH). Verify thread size before ordering.


Went to the Rohm website and saw what they had.  Didn't see much in the way of $40 chucks.  Most seemed more than $80.


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## darkzero (Jun 8, 2020)

WobblyHand said:


> Went to the Rohm website and saw what they had.  Didn't see much in the way of $40 chucks.  Most seemed more than $80.



Check Amazon or Ebay. Last I saw 1/2"-20 Rohm was $44 shipped.


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## darkzero (Jun 8, 2020)

Aukai said:


> My Milwaukee keyless, cordless locks on the bit all the time now. I think it is happening from the bit getting caught on the break through. You didn't hear it from me, but a pipe wrench on the chuck is how a friend get's it unstuck....



Reminds me of mine. Mikwaukee tools are great but the chucks on some their cordless drills suck. Not all were known to have problems but many did. Mine was a model that was known to have chuck problems but I only experienced them once in a while & not all the issues.

Locking up & can't loosen is one common problem. Some people have to smack the chuck to get it to loosen.


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## WobblyHand (Jun 8, 2020)

If I hadn't bought the battery AND charger, I would have just got another drill.  Just about anything is probably better than what I have.  But I did. 

I'll check out Amazon or Ebay.  First I need to know what I need to get!


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## darkzero (Jun 8, 2020)

Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Rohm-893352-Extra-RV13-Through-Hole-Diameter/dp/B00DD7KS5O/ref=sr_1_3?crid=23OVKZH3MWEQZ&dchild=1&keywords=rohm+1/2-20&qid=1591669156&sprefix=Rohm+1/,aps,262&sr=8-3

Be sure to check diameter too. Some drills have a recess for the torque selector ring so if yours does make sure the new chuck will fit.

The more expensive chucks are probably for hammer drills. Come to think of it, my past 3 cordless drills were are hammer drills & had ratcheting chucks. So what I said before about ratcheting chucks I may be mistaken. Perhaps cordless drills that don't have the hammer feature don't have ratcheting chucks?


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## darkzero (Jun 8, 2020)

Here's a cheaper alternative: https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Ele...uperior+electric+1/2-20&qid=1591669621&sr=8-5

I've heard of people using this brand but I have no idea if they are good.


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## frankly2 (Jun 9, 2020)

You can find drill bits with flats ground on the shanks, that prevents spinning on the chuck jaws !


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## pontiac428 (Jun 9, 2020)

Bosch cordless drills come with Rohm chucks from the factory.  I gotta plug for power tools made in Switzerland and other locations in the EU that have a firm grasp on Quality with a capital "Q".  It's incredibly good stuff.

The burr on your drill shank may be removed with an India stone.  It's an eventual fact of life with drills for one cause or another.


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## Nogoingback (Jun 9, 2020)

+1 on the Rohm chucks.  I have a Rigid brand corded drill that came with a Rohm chuck.  It's been excellent: holds
the drills securely doesn't chew them up and is easy to use.  Worth the money in my opinion.


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## WobblyHand (Jun 9, 2020)

The LH threaded screw came out of the chuck, once I wrapped the chuck in rubber and grabbed it in a vise.  It's an M6x1 with a conical taper for the head.  However, the chuck itself doesn't want to unthread.  There appears to be a 14mm set of flats, but one needs a cone wrench (very thin wrench) to get to it.  Actually only guessing at the width, as my calipers won't fit in the gap.  The gap is 0.140" between the chuck and the drill body.  Would getting a cone wrench help?  Or grind down a throw-away wrench?  It appears the flats are on the chuck side.  The other side (the drill side) as nothing to grip.  How does this chuck come off?  Grab which piece relative to the other?


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## Ulma Doctor (Jun 9, 2020)

i have made wrenches from sheetmetal and milled or ground them to size

i'm still impressed with my Milwaukee drill chucks- they got their game together with the ratcheting type


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## darkzero (Jun 9, 2020)

Most people just stick a big hex key (like 10mm) in the chuck (grip the hex key with the chuck jaws). Then stick a pipe on it for leverage or give it a good whack with a hammer. Mine wouldn't budge with a pipe & I didn't want to damage one of my good hex keys, I didn't have any spares.

I made a 12mm hex out of 4140 & used my impact gun to get mine off. Mine was a 9/16" thread chuck.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/my-misc-quickie-projects.76777/page-2#post-746568


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## WobblyHand (Jun 9, 2020)

@darkzero I'm slowly getting there...  Please humor me.  Somethings that are obvious to you aren't to me.  It just so happens that I recently unearthed a box filled with hex keys!  Earlier in the day I was wondering what I would do with them!  So the chuck can grab the key.  So that's one item that is 'fixed'.  What is the other side to hold?  To unscrew something, there is the screw and the nut.  Where are they in this situation?


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## WobblyHand (Jun 9, 2020)

Ulma Doctor said:


> i have made wrenches from sheetmetal and milled or ground them to size
> 
> i'm still impressed with my Milwaukee drill chucks- they got their game together with the ratcheting type


I've ground many a special wrench before, usually from off brand wrench laying around.  Right now I'm out of junk wrenches, might have to go to HF to buy some.


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## darkzero (Jun 9, 2020)

WobblyHand said:


> @darkzero I'm slowly getting there...  Please humor me.  Somethings that are obvious to you aren't to me.  It just so happens that I recently unearthed a box filled with hex keys!  Earlier in the day I was wondering what I would do with them!  So the chuck can grab the key.  So that's one item that is 'fixed'.  What is the other side to hold?  To unscrew something, there is the screw and the nut.  Where are they in this situation?



Ah now I think I understand what's going on. Your drill does not have the spindle brake or whatever... I think sprag clutch is what it's called? Older cordless drills the spindle can turn freely. On newer cordless drills you can not spin the chuck/spindle except by turning on the motor. So I guess that's what those flats are for that you mentioned, to hold the spindle?

Sorry, I did not think about that. Might get lucky using the impact gun method though if you got one handy.


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## WobblyHand (Jun 9, 2020)

No spindle brake.  I'll try making a wrench to fit, but _it appears to me_ that the nut is on the chuck side not the shaft side.  So grabbing a key in the chuck and grabbing the flats are basically the same thing!  That's what is confusing me.  Maybe looks are deceiving though.  So I'll give it a try!


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## darkzero (Jun 9, 2020)

Awe man. You got me on that one. I'm out of ideas now. There must be some way to hold the spindle. If not apparently visible my guess is somewhere inside the drill?

Haha, I apologize for nudging you into this mess! But I'm rooting for you!   Please keep us updated!


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## pontiac428 (Jun 9, 2020)

WobblyHand said:


> The LH threaded screw came out of the chuck, once I wrapped the chuck in rubber and grabbed it in a vise.  It's an M6x1 with a conical taper for the head.  However, the chuck itself doesn't want to unthread.  There appears to be a 14mm set of flats, but one needs a cone wrench (very thin wrench) to get to it.  Actually only guessing at the width, as my calipers won't fit in the gap.  The gap is 0.140" between the chuck and the drill body.  Would getting a cone wrench help?  Or grind down a throw-away wrench?  It appears the flats are on the chuck side.  The other side (the drill side) as nothing to grip.  How does this chuck come off?  Grab which piece relative to the other?



Cone wrenches are generally available in sizes less than 15mm.  We know what cone wrenches are, because at one time or another we've adjusted a cone nut bearing.  The less-nerdy part of the world knows them as tappet wrenches for adjusting valvetrains.  So if you ever decide to go looking, you'll have an easier time finding them.


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## jaek (Jun 9, 2020)

Put the short end of the hex key in the chuck, hold or clamp the handle of the drill down on your workbench, and whack the long end of the hex key with a big hammer. The chuck should break loose and then easily unthread

If it helps you can think of it as a high torque low speed impact driver.


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## darkzero (Jun 9, 2020)

jaek said:


> Put the short end of the hex key in the chuck, hold or clamp the handle of the drill down on your workbench, and whack the long end of the hex key with a big hammer. The chuck should break loose and then easily unthread
> 
> If it helps you can think of it as a high torque low speed impact driver.



The issue is he has an older drill that does not have the spindle brake feature like cordless drills have now in the past 10 yrs or so.


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## extropic (Jun 9, 2020)

Did you try chucking up the hex key and just rapping it a good blow? I'm thinking that the resistance of trying to back-drive the gear train may be enough for the chuck to break free.

As for saving the twist drills, I use a diamond file to remove such. Just take down the high spots.


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## darkzero (Jun 9, 2020)

Well I just looked on YT. So what I mentioned earlier about whacking with a hammer & what jaek also mentioned should work. Guy just whacked the hex key with a hammer & it loosened right up.


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## WobblyHand (Jun 10, 2020)

I'll give it a try.


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## WobblyHand (Jun 11, 2020)

Whacked the hex key with a hammer.  The key moved.  Nothing else happened.  Tried a few more times mostly due to frustration.  Same result.  Chuck is still on there.  

Tried making a poor man's cone wrench out of 0.125" mild steel, with a hacksaw and a file.  Filed the wrench until it fit.  The nut dimension was different than expected.  It ended up with 16.9 mm.  Initially I estimated it at 14 mm.  Of course the mild steel wrench wasn't up to the task.  The wrench distorted and got stuck.  The clearance between the chuck and drill is 0.140".  Took a while to extract the wrench from in between the chuck and the drill body.  Chuck is still on there.  

Learned 2 things, 1) making a wrench this way is not much fun and 2) I can buy a small set of HF metric wrenches for less than the cost of a single cone or tappet wrench.  The tappet wrench that I found in 16/17mm are 0.181" thick, so I would have to grind to fit.

Gee, this darn chuck is a royal pain.  I never expected this much "learning".


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## jaek (Jun 11, 2020)

The key moved as in the chuck spun freely? Or the key spun in the chuck? Sorry, really thought that was going to work.


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## WobblyHand (Jun 11, 2020)

The key and chuck rotated (together).  The key was firmly locked in the chuck.


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## jaek (Jun 11, 2020)

Does it have multiple gears? Make sure it's in the lower gear....


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## WobblyHand (Jun 11, 2020)

It has a high / low setting with a big slide switch.  The drill also has torque settings 1-20 and drill only.  I had it in high/drill.  I think I tried low/drill with similar results.


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## jaek (Jun 11, 2020)

I can go try to pull the chuck off my drill again to see if I missed anything. Because you're emulating an impact wrench here you want the sharpest blow and most torque possible. Use the biggest hex key you have, hit it at the very end, metal hammer not a mallet, etc.

Edited to add that penetrating oil wouldn't hurt either.


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## WobblyHand (Jun 11, 2020)

I hit it towards the end of the (junk) key with a 2 lb hand sledge!  There's not much resistance to rotation...  Just to be sure, what rotation am I trying to achieve?  And from what vantage point?  CW or CCW looking at the key, with the drill behind it?

To answer my question.  CCW.  Put it in Low/drill.  Found a slightly longer key and whacked it.  Broke free.  Chuck spun right off.  Diameter appears to be 0.492"  20 TPI.


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## jaek (Jun 11, 2020)

is a youtube video demonstrating it. Go to two minutes in. He's beating the hell out of it.


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## darkzero (Jun 11, 2020)

CCW


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## WobblyHand (Jun 11, 2020)

It's off now.  1/2-20 thread.  Will this fit?  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rohm-Type-...:yqMAAOSwfeZcYLEP:sc:USPSPriority!03064!US!-1
Anything nicer in this price range?

This one is like my lathe chuck, but with a threaded shank.  Too bad it's twice the price.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rohm-Supra...riorityMailPaddedFlatRateEnvelope!03064!US!-1  Advantage of this one is there is more to hold on to.  Disadvantage is it's longer.


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## darkzero (Jun 11, 2020)

Hey, you can't tell us that & not tell us what method worked for you!  

The second one you linked is for a machine tool (DP, mill, etc). Can't use chucks like that. Well you could but there is no through hole & you can't drill one in a keyless chuck like that. No through hole means you can't use the retaining screw & the chuck will very likely unscrew itself if used in reverse.


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## WobblyHand (Jun 11, 2020)

darkzero said:


> Hey, you can't tell us that & not tell us what method worked for you!
> 
> The second one you linked is for a machine tool (DP, mill, etc). Can't use chucks like that. Well you could but there is no through hole & you can't drill one in a keyless chuck like that. No through hole means you can't use the retaining screw & the chuck will very likely unscrew itself if used in reverse.


Post #38, says how I did it.  Ninja edit.

So #1 is ok?  I like the metal knurling, rather than all rubber style.


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## jaek (Jun 11, 2020)

First one looks like it would work  Second one looks nice but might unbalance the drill?

This one might also work.


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## darkzero (Jun 11, 2020)

WobblyHand said:


> Will this fit?  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rohm-Type-...:yqMAAOSwfeZcYLEP:sc:USPSPriority!03064!US!-1
> Anything nicer in this price range?



I think that chuck is ugly as hell but that's just me. I prefer something more basic looking like the one I linked in post 13 (same price). Really it's your preference though. Also be sure to check what I mentioned in post 13 also.

If stick out/length is important, look for the styles that don't have that nut on the nose. That nut I believe is for aiding in removal.


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## WobblyHand (Jun 11, 2020)

@darkzero how do you tighten and loosen the chuck you linked to in #13?  What do I hold on to?  Remember that my drill doesn't have a lock to it.  The all black is more attractive, but, I don't understand how to physically tighten the chuck.  The one I linked to I would hold the silver knurl in one hand and lock with my other hand.


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## 7milesup (Jun 11, 2020)

Interesting thread.
As Dark pointed out, the one listed here Rohm Supra is an industrial chuck, like an Albrecht. It will not work on your drill. As DZ pointed out, you cannot access the retaining screw through that type of chuck. There is really no way to get it to work on hand held drill.


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## darkzero (Jun 11, 2020)

Ah, that spindle brake, forgot about that again. I see why you are looking at the one you linked. I haven't had a drill with no lock since the 90s but honestly I don't ever remember using 2 hands to tighten the chuck back then. I know, not recommended but I'm pretty sure I used the common bad habit of spinning the motor while gripping the chuck collar to tighten/loosen then.


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## 7milesup (Jun 11, 2020)

Also, for what it is worth, I recently purchased a Milwaukee 18 volt Fuel drill.  I HATE the chuck on that damn thing.  Drill bits always come loose and you have to stop and re-tighten, that is if the drill bit didn't already fall out onto the floor.


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## WobblyHand (Jun 11, 2020)

So it looks like #1 it is.  Never developed that bad habit.  It always seemed the chuck wouldn't tighten enough that way.


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## darkzero (Jun 11, 2020)

7milesup said:


> Also, for what it is worth, I recently purchased a Milwaukee 18 volt Fuel drill.  I HATE the chuck on that damn thing.  Drill bits always come loose and you have to stop and re-tighten, that is if the drill bit didn't already fall out onto the floor.



Yup, common problem on the 1st & 2nd gen M18 Fuels. I put a 3rd gen Fuel chuck on my 2nd gen Fuel. Feels like I got a whole new drill. So disappointed in MW that I even had to change the chuck. If yours is still within warranty, contact MW, they'll upgrade the chuck for free.


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## WobblyHand (Jun 11, 2020)

https://www.amazon.com/Rohm-802490-...5RW1YY3DYWR&psc=1&refRID=G0VVH5DEE5RW1YY3DYWR
This version seems nicer and says it can be used with and without spindle lock.


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## darkzero (Jun 11, 2020)

That looks nice but is also a lot more expensive. I'd go with the one you linked because of price. Or maybe look for an actual Jacobs brand. Should be much cheaper than a Rohm.

IMO $80 is not worth it, you could spend a bit more & get a brand new drill. They often go on sale for $100 or even less at big box hardware stores


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## Aukai (Jun 11, 2020)

Will, what chuck for my Fuel?


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## darkzero (Jun 11, 2020)

Aukai said:


> Will, what chuck for my Fuel?



M12 or M18, 1st gen or 2nd gen? It matters since they changed the thread size. Or better yet, what's the model #?


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## Aukai (Jun 11, 2020)

I'll look when I get home, it's an M18, I'm at the airport till 21:30 our time.


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## Aukai (Jun 11, 2020)

Checked my purchase Hx
Milwaukee M18 1/2 in. Drill Driver 2803-20 New (Bare Tool)


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## darkzero (Jun 11, 2020)

Aukai said:


> Checked my purchase Hx
> Milwaukee M18 1/2 in. Drill Driver 2803-20 New (Bare Tool)



That's the 3rd gen Fuel (latest model). The 1st & 2nd gen Fuels had the chuck issues. You shouldn't have any issues with the chuck. I have the chuck from that model on my 2nd gen Fuel now. I've had no problems with it unlike my stock chuck.

If you do have issues, should still be under warranty (5 yrs) & MW will replace it.


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## Aukai (Jun 11, 2020)

My friend used a pipe wrench on it, so it may not qualify, plus if it's sticking now, I'd like a better chuck.


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## darkzero (Jun 11, 2020)

Ah I see. Here's the Rohm. Not very many options right now cause our drills are 9/16"-18.






						Röhm - 1325031 Genuine OEM Keyless Drill Chuck Extra50-RV13 1322450 Replacement for Milwaukee 1/2", 9/16"-18 Mount, Metal, Radial Lock, Through-Hole: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
					

Röhm - 1325031 Genuine OEM Keyless Drill Chuck Extra50-RV13 1322450 Replacement for Milwaukee 1/2", 9/16"-18 Mount, Metal, Radial Lock, Through-Hole: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



					www.amazon.com


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## Aukai (Jun 12, 2020)

The reviews are saying exactly what I'm thinking. Got it thanks 

Your instigatory rating points have gone up....


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## WobblyHand (Jun 12, 2020)

Ordered a new chuck.  Can one reuse the LH locking screw?  Just add some (what color) Loctite?


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## ThinWoodsman (Jun 12, 2020)

Hmm, been having issues with the chuck on my Makita. Actually have two of the same cordless drill: bought one six years ago, it is a tank, bought the exact same model a year ago to have one in the shop, and it is ... not a tank.


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## WobblyHand (Jun 22, 2020)

Well, it's a little ugly, but it works.  Thanks to everyone on helping me get this done.  Hope it lasts, because it's the last money I'm spending on this drill.  



Actually used the old chuck as a hand drill holder.  I was able to hand drill out one of those awful plastic peg shelf holders.  It broke off inside an armoire.


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## pontiac428 (Jun 22, 2020)

WobblyHand said:


> It broke off inside an armoire.



I don't even know what an armoire is.  Is that something like a Hardinge?


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## WobblyHand (Jun 22, 2020)

Armoire = tool cabinet for clothes


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