# Atlas 618 rebuilt, repainted, new screw and half-nut, VFD and hard mounted...



## dfwcnc (Jan 23, 2013)

Finally completed, just some programming is needed now.  But it did take almost a month of hard work and many parts to complete the job.

Most lathes can be saved, if you're willing to do the work.  Cheers~

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6Qvcmh710U


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## righto88 (Jan 23, 2013)

Very nice and well done. :man:


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## dfwcnc (Jan 23, 2013)

Thank you.


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## Uncle Buck (Jan 23, 2013)

Stunning restoration and improvments. I may be wrong in this observation but I think that 3 jaw might be at least one and possibly 2 inches too big for that machine. I am thinking you will not be able to open the chuck jaws very far before interfering with the bed thus severely limiting the size of stock you can mount in the jaws of that chuck. 

I really hope the thought I just expressed is incorrect. Smashing job restoring her though.


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## stevecmo (Jan 23, 2013)

I think Uncle Buck may be correct on the size of the chuck.  However I must say, that is an outstanding looking resto on the lathe!!!  Can you provide any info on the paint you used and the process?  It looks great!

Steve


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## dfwcnc (Jan 24, 2013)

Intriguing comment regarding the chuck size, and I do believe there will be very limited space for the size of the work piece.  I may very well ebay it.  However, the work pieces I plan to use is no larger than 1/2 inch.  But I may go the collet path and sell the Buck Chuck anyway.  I have a 4 jaw Atlas chuck I can use when necessary.  I appreciate your observations, and will certainly look closely at its fit and future use.

The paint is a hammer finish grey.  I tried three colors on a couple of parts before settling on it; silver looked plastic, bronze looked odd (seen on the pulley bracket).  Homedepot carries it.  

Cheers~


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## Uncle Buck (Jan 24, 2013)

You should be able to easily find that paint in a good range of colors. The paint is Rust-O-Leum (sp) brand and even found at Wal-Mart. For those that have not used this paint it really does a great job of sort of hiding imperfections in surface finsh due to the hammered effect I think. Unlike a solid color these paints result in fishes that do not draw the eye as readily to every single battle scar or surface imperfection they are trying to cover. It is important to follow the directions on the can and shake well as I recall, if not your finish will not result in the hammered effect touted on the can. 

Great choice, I have used it myself and will again for sure, a wee bit pricier though but well worth the difference.


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## outsider347 (Jan 24, 2013)

Outstanding resto.. 

wondering about the VFD:
Were you able to use the original AC drive motor?
If you don't mind my asking, what was the total cost of the VFD up date?
Should you decide to go to a larger lathe, will you be able to install this VFD on it if it also uses a 110v AC larger motor

Thanks for your response


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## dfwcnc (Jan 24, 2013)

Thanks for the kind comments.

Unfortunately, I was not able to use the old motor, as when I converted the system to a variable frequency drive (VFD), I moved from 110v to 220v.  So I'll sell it, the switch and riser on ebay as I will not need it again.  

The cost was nearly $800, but it could have been done a lot cheaper.  Not using a nasa welder, not building a sophisticated riser, using top wiring, new lead-screw and half-nut, and a few other things could have shaved $400 off.  I already had the table so that was nice.  

And in building it, I did so using heavier wiring than necessary for the motor used etc so I would have the option to drop another slightly larger lathe in its place.  A Southbend 9 or equivalent would be very appropriate, and the table has to space to acommodate it.  I planned to grow into a larger unit if I so desire.   That said, I'll have some time to enjoy this one. 

Like most things in life, it was a lot more work than I expected, and cost more than I anticipated.


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## outsider347 (Jan 24, 2013)

Like I tell my wife, "thats why I work"...

I call it "smiles per dollar" )

Is the motor 220 v DC?

thanks again


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## Uncle Buck (Jan 24, 2013)

dfwcnc said:


> Intriguing comment regarding the chuck size, and I do believe there will be very limited space for the size of the work piece.  I may very well ebay it.  However, the work pieces I plan to use is no larger than 1/2 inch.  But I may go the collet path and sell the Buck Chuck anyway.  I have a 4 jaw Atlas chuck I can use when necessary.  I appreciate your observations, and will certainly look closely at its fit and future use.
> 
> The paint is a hammer finish grey.  I tried three colors on a couple of parts before settling on it; silver looked plastic, bronze looked odd (seen on the pulley bracket).  Homedepot carries it.
> 
> Cheers~



I think if you look into collets for this machine the very largest you would find should be 1/2" I think. I could always be wrong though too.


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## AR1911 (Jan 24, 2013)

get an ER collet set with mt2 arbor
Works fine


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## dfwcnc (Jan 24, 2013)

No, but I did spend a lot of time studying both VFD and DC, and with the line regulator, the VFD is the best route for me.  

So the motor is a 220AC Dayton unit.  



outsider347 said:


> Like I tell my wife, "thats why I work"...
> 
> I call it "smiles per dollar" )
> 
> ...


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## dfwcnc (Jan 24, 2013)

Anything larger than 1/2 I could use the three jaw chuck.  

But I am very interested in a collet system if you have a suggestion I would be very grateful.  



AR1911 said:


> get an ER collet set with mt2 arbor
> Works fine


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## wa5cab (Jan 25, 2013)

I think I wrote all of this a couple of weeks ago, but it may have been over on Yahoo.  The cheapest route, I think, is a drawbar and 2MT collets.  This gets you up to 1/2".  Downside is I don't think anyone makes 2MT collets in 1/32" or 1/64" increments.  And you can't pass parts through the headstock.  With the same drawbar, you could use 2MT set screw style cutter holders which are available up to 5/8" dia. 

Probably the most expensive unless you stumble across an individual with a set for cheap would be the original collet set sold by Atlas for the 618.  I've been told that the collets were called 6AT.  Diameter limit is about 3/8" but you can pass long stock through the spindle and drawtube.  

Atlas sold a milling cutter holder for the 618 that with four reducing bushings would hold 1/4" to 1/2" dia. cutters (1/16" increments).  

Beyond those, as mentioned earlier you could go with a 2MT mounted ER (French, I think) collet closer and ER collets.  Requires a draw bar (NEVER EVER use a tang type 2MT arbor or holder in the headstock unless what you are holding is constrained on the other end by the tailstock.  Sooner rather than later it will come loose and break something).  Or I think you can buy front mounted (hollow) ER closers but I don't know what the largest one available to fit the 618 is.  This would allow you to pass up to 1/2" work pieces through the spindle.  

I don't think that anyone makes a front mounted 5C closer that will fit the 618.  And I don't think that anyone ever made a lever operated collet closer for it.

Robert D.


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## dfwcnc (Jan 25, 2013)

This guy has it down.  

notenoughwatches@gmail.com


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## Uncle Buck (Jan 25, 2013)

I agree with virtually all of this. I am thinking that I found possibly one tooling supplier for 1/32" or 1/64" collets within the last couple years though I am not confident I could find them again if need be. 




wa5cab said:


> I think I wrote all of this a couple of weeks ago, but it may have been over on Yahoo.  The cheapest route, I think, is a drawbar and 2MT collets.  This gets you up to 1/2".  Downside is I don't think anyone makes 2MT collets in 1/32" or 1/64" increments.  And you can't pass parts through the headstock.  With the same drawbar, you could use 2MT set screw style cutter holders which are available up to 5/8" dia.
> 
> Probably the most expensive unless you stumble across an individual with a set for cheap would be the original collet set sold by Atlas for the 618.  I've been told that the collets were called 6AT.  Diameter limit is about 3/8" but you can pass long stock through the spindle and drawtube.
> 
> ...


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## wa5cab (Jan 26, 2013)

Uncle Buck,

I guess that could be (2MT collets in less than 1/16" increments) but I've never stumbled across them.  However, Atlas only sold 3AT collets in 1/32" increments and you hardly ever seen any in 1/64" increments on eBay.  But I found a place that stocked them in 1/64" increments.  If you should happen to come across 1/32" increments in 2MT collets, try to remember to let me know.  I have a number of solid carbide end mills that have 1/32" increment shanks.

Robert D.


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## Uncle Buck (Jan 26, 2013)

wa5cab said:


> Uncle Buck,
> 
> I guess that could be (2MT collets in less than 1/16" increments) but I've never stumbled across them.  However, Atlas only sold 3AT collets in 1/32" increments and you hardly ever seen any in 1/64" increments on eBay.  But I found a place that stocked them in 1/64" increments.  If you should happen to come across 1/32" increments in 2MT collets, try to remember to let me know.  I have a number of solid carbide end mills that have 1/32" increment shanks.
> 
> Robert D.




Yup, will try to recall and report back. :thumbzup:


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## zebopman (Feb 10, 2013)

Just saw this and the video - GREAT JOB!

Charles


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## dfwcnc (Feb 10, 2013)

I enjoyed doing it.  

Now I want to do a bigger one.  My wife says if I want another one I'd have to sell the Atlas.  Man, can't a man have more than one lathe?


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## Mr. Inquisitive (Feb 10, 2013)

That looks great. I'm thinking of doing a similar project. What kind of belts are you using? What are they made of? Where did you get them? You mentioned in the video that you cut them to length, then burned the ends to join them? Tell me more . . . I have many finicky projects requiring inexpensive belts.


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## dfwcnc (Feb 10, 2013)

Mr. Inquisitive said:


> That looks great. I'm thinking of doing a similar project. What kind of belts are you using? What are they made of? Where did you get them? You mentioned in the video that you cut them to length, then burned the ends to join them? Tell me more . . . I have many finicky projects requiring inexpensive belts.



Go to the Youtube link for the lathe and look at the other videos, there's one just for the belts.  Cheap, but a bit of a pain to do.  They are quiet, grippy and look really cool, though.  I am happy with them and plan to use them on my next lathe as well.


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## Mr. Inquisitive (Feb 12, 2013)

dfwcnc said:


> Go to the Youtube link for the lathe and look at the other videos, there's one just for the belts.  Cheap, but a bit of a pain to do.  They are quiet, grippy and look really cool, though.  I am happy with them and plan to use them on my next lathe as well.



Ah, I see. Very helpful video. What diameter solid core are you using? 3/8, 5/16, 1/2? Would you use a different one if you had to order again?


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## Uncle Buck (Feb 12, 2013)

dfwcnc said:


> I enjoyed doing it.
> 
> Now I want to do a bigger one.  My wife says if I want another one I'd have to sell the Atlas.  Man, can't a man have more than one lathe?



My wife mentioned such a rule to me with a straight face.  :nono: I smiled and said right.:rofl:  I don't think a machine has left my shop since but more keep coming in, complete or in pieces. I always say where there is a will there is a way and always seem to find just a wee bit more room for that other machine, tool or piece of equipment I just had to have.


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