# Reversing the VFD



## wawoodman (Apr 24, 2011)

I hooked up the Hitachi VFD. I took the drum switch off, and connected from the VFD directly to the mill motor. It works fine.

But, I can't figure out how to reverse it, nor do I get that instant braking that I've heard talked about. I thought there would be an easy way to do that. Should I have left the drum switch in place to reverse, or am I missing something?

I'm still working my way through the manual...


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## steve james (Apr 24, 2011)

Mike
I installed a Teco/Westinghouse several months ago on my Burke# 4. Had the same problem. I read the manual a number of times. I thought my reading comprehension was sliping along with other body parts. I finally called customer service at Teco. I spoke to a tech who explained, "The people who write the manuals are not proficient with the English language". He then explained the procedue and directed me to other web site written in,"Our" english. Call customer service if you can't figure the sequence out. I know the frustration well.

Steve Jam..


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## wawoodman (Apr 24, 2011)

mnmh,
There is nothing between the VFD and the motor. So I did that right! I got the Hitachi X200-004NFU1http://www.driveswarehouse.com/Drives/AC+Drives/Phase+Converter+VFD/X200-004NFU1.html I have the VFD plugged into a 220V receptacle, and wiring from the VFD goes direct to the motor. I know that the motor reverses, because on my initial connection, it ran backwards. Swapping two of the wires on the 3-phase side corrected that.

steve,
I'll do that tomorrow. Thanks for the tip!


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## mitsue2366 (Apr 24, 2011)

You have to use the drum switch on the control logic inputs and it can control forward, stop, reverse. Look for a parameter to enable braking and another couple for decelleration/accelleration times.


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## wawoodman (Apr 24, 2011)

[quote author=mitsue2366 link=topic=1849.msg11809#msg11809 date=1303665701]
You have to use the drum switch on the control logic inputs and it can control forward, stop, reverse. Look for a parameter to enable braking and another couple for decelleration/accelleration times.
[/quote]

Absolutely no clue how to do that. Back to the manuals, I guess.


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## mitsue2366 (Apr 24, 2011)

[quote author=wawoodman link=topic=1849.msg11813#msg11813 date=1303668514]
[quote author=mitsue2366 link=topic=1849.msg11809#msg11809 date=1303665701]
You have to use the drum switch on the control logic inputs and it can control forward, stop, reverse. Look for a parameter to enable braking and another couple for decelleration/accelleration times.
[/quote]

Absolutely no clue how to do that. Back to the manuals, I guess.
[/quote]


You will have to wire the "STF" (start forward rotation),"STR" (start reverse rotation), and "SD (contact input common (sink)) into the drum switch. Then you change a parameter to use external frequency control (motor speed, hertz) and wire a potentiometer (10Kohm??, check your manual) into I beleive the frequency setting power supply terminal, the voltage signal line, (center wiper on the poteniometer), and frequency setting input common. The drive supplys the low voltage required on those lines so end you end up with low voltage in the run, stop, jog, brake and emergency stop switches and speed pot.


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## wawoodman (Apr 24, 2011)

mitsue and Ed,
Thanks for the extra info. Ed, I'm guessing you made a little 3-switch panel to hold the switches? How would you wire in a pot, and what specs would you need on it? (Is that the section at the bottom of the drawing? Sorry, my circuit reading skills are really rudimentary.)

It seems a shame to have to do that, since the VFD control panel can be moved to another location with an R-45 (I think) cable.

And one more stupid question: Do I really need reverse on a mill, anyway?


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## Pacer (Apr 24, 2011)

Hopefully a little more clarification on your reversing and switching problem -- the first pic is my switching set up on my mill with the Hitachi L200, those are common toggle switches mounted in a Radio Shack box. The left sw controls power to the VFD unit, and the right sw controls fwd/rev/off in center. The original rotary switch is still hooked up, but I just dont use it, using the toggles to control everything.

The second pic is the wiring - along the bottom on the left is the 220v input wires, and to the right is the three 3ph wires going to the motor. At the top in the green terminal on the right at positions 1 &amp; 2 are the reversing terms, these go to the the 3 position toggle with center being off.


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## wawoodman (Apr 24, 2011)

Pacer,
Thanks for that close up. Very helpful! Are you running the line voltage through the on/off switch?


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## Pacer (Apr 25, 2011)

As I recall, at the time (some 3 yrs ago!) it seemed that leaving the rotary switch connected and in the on position and using the toggle to control power to the VFD was easier than removal of the rotary - I dont recall exactly why, obviously it isnt an absolute...

I forgot to mention that I use the potentiometer control on the VFD itself as my speed control, as it was conveniently located and I saw no need to remote a separate pot.

Oh, and by the way, I think youll find that reversing capability is VERY handy!


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## wawoodman (Apr 26, 2011)

OK, I'll go and buy the bits and pieces. What wire gauge did you use for the 24v circuits?


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## Pacer (Apr 26, 2011)

> Just about any wire will do for the 24volt signal lines.



Yeah this is true, I just dug around in my "odd wire" box and found some small stuff from some forgotten project.

You know none of this counts if you dont post pics of your project when youre finished....


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## EarlH (Apr 27, 2011)

I went to home depot for the switches, housings and conduit.  I think I have about 10 bucks in it. I am using a $0.99 half watt linear 10k pot from Radio Shack and a $1.25 knob!   My VFD is a Minarik open frame type. No programming. No Cabinet. No user controls.  Mounted it on the back of the lathe cabinet down by the floor (where it is cooler) All the parameters are adjusted with pots on the device. I just disconnected my Rotary Phase Converter and connected the VFD. I use the Drum Switch for off on and reverse. If I want the braking, I use the switch on the wall. The F/W wall switch can be used for a gentle brake, stop, and gentle start the other direction.  Not really needed. I made a little mark by the pot where the 60 hz setting is. I leave it there unless I really need to change the speed. 60 HZ is where the motor is happiest. Once in a while, if I slam the drum switch from forward to reverse and back the VFD will fault. I just reach up, flip the enable switch off, then on and go on my merry way. I had to crank it up just a bit when it started tripping on heavy cuts.  I have a lot of faith in the engineers that design those things.  I have adjusted the over current at the minimum to make it work. I'm not worried about hurting anything. I have another unit sitting on the shelf. (Got 2 used units for $85). I have been using this unit for about a year now. As soon as I find a deal on a 3 phase motor that will fit my mill, I will use the second one.


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## wawoodman (Apr 29, 2011)

[quote author=mnmh link=topic=1849.msg12047#msg12047 date=1303855459]
[quote author=wawoodman link=topic=1849.msg12020#msg12020 date=1303835571]
OK, I'll go and buy the bits and pieces. What wire gauge did you use for the 24v circuits?
[/quote]Mike,

Just about any wire will do for the 24volt signal lines. There is very little current running through those wires since they are just control wires and not driver wires. I would use 18 or 20 gauge stranded wire.

Ed


[/quote]

All I've found (so far) is 22 gauge. Will that work, or should I keep looking?
Thanks!


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## Tony Wells (Apr 29, 2011)

Mike, 22g will be just fine. Carry on!


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## Highpower (Apr 30, 2011)

This will probably be poo-poo'ed - but I feel obligated to post it anyway.

Page 4-5 of your manual:



> NOTE: For the wiring
> of intelligent I/O and
> analog inputs, *be sure** to use twisted pair /shielded cable.
> Attach the shielded wire for each signal to its respective common terminal at the inverter end only.
> *


*
I called Hitachi and confirmed this with one of their engineers (Sam Mirza) when I was installing my unit.The reason being, these are logic inputs, and any stray signals could possibly initiate a run command when you least expect it and don't want it.He said to also be sure you don't run the signal lines near/parallel to any line voltage wiring for just that reason.I wired mine with CAT5 and only grounded the shielding leads at the VFD per the instructions, as you don't want a ground loop.

Just passing it along FYI. No need to shoot the messenger. *


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## wawoodman (Apr 30, 2011)

Highpower,
Were you able to find Cat 5 that was stranded, not solid? Or, is the twisted pair more important than the stranded vs. solid? Where did you get it?


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## Highpower (Apr 30, 2011)

Mike,

What I have is stranded. It's left over from a spool I had bought when I wired our home computer network. I know Lowes and Home Depot here carry it. It's over in with the Audio/Telephone wiring supplies isle.

The only drawback to the solid wire is it's stiffness. As long as it's twisted pair/shielded it will work though.


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## wawoodman (Apr 30, 2011)

More questions, sorry! When you say twisted pair, shielded, does that mean that the cable is shielded? Or that each pair is shielded? Or that one wire of each pair is shielded?

"Attach the shielded wire for each signal to its respective common terminal at the inverter end only." I don't understand this at all, sorry.

I just want to be sure that I'm doing it right, the first time!


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## Tony Wells (Apr 30, 2011)

If you prefer the flexibility of stranded Cat5, get some preterminated LAN jumpers and whack off the ends. They are stranded instead of solid.


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## Highpower (Apr 30, 2011)

The foil seen just under the outer covering is the outer shielding. The single bare stranded wire at the top is in contact with the shielding foil, and is what you use to make your "ground" connection.

 The solid color wire of each pair is your "signal" wire that you connect for each of your inputs ie., RUN, STOP, FWD/REV, and so on.
 The striped wire of the same color is your "shield" wire that protects the signal wire from interference.
 You connect the solid color wire between your control switches or buttons to the terminals on the VFD. (1-2-3-4-5 etc.)
 Each of the striped wires and the bare shield wire get connected to the grounding terminal at the VFD *only*. You do NOT ground the other end of the striped/bare wires where they connect to your control switches/buttons. Just cut them off at that end.

*p.s.*
The "ground" for these connections is terminal "L" (right side) on your inverter - not the chassis ground terminal.


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## wawoodman (Apr 30, 2011)

The amount of patience you guys show is amazing! Thanks so much.

I'll hit the depot, and see if I can get the wire that highpower is showing. If not, Ed, you'll hear from me.

Again, thanks.


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## wawoodman (May 5, 2011)

It is now brick wall time. Using Ed's diagram, I hooked up my remote box. I have programmed the run, stop, and reverse functions. But the remote box does not work. 
Following the notes on p 4-27 for 3-wire interface,

I programmed A002&gt;01 to set the operation control to remote. When I did this, the keypad control no longer worked, so that should be correct.

I have connected the Run switch to terminal 3, and programmed C003&gt;20
I have connected the Stop switch to terminal 4, and programmed C004&gt;21
I have connected the Forward/Reverse switch to terminal 5, and programmed C005&gt;22

Nothing works. I'm sure I missed something simple, but I don't know what. I have the potentiometer wired, but until the motor runs, I can't check it. (Side question: I did not ground the pot back to the terminal board, because I ran out of wires. Is that necessary?)

Thanks!


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## wawoodman (May 5, 2011)

Ed,
My block does not say P24; it says PCS. But, yes, I have it wired. I went down to check it with the meter, and now I really feel lost. I have the (digital) meter set for V, and the range 00.00. So that should tell me if I have 24V going out, if I set the prongs on the PCS screw, and the L terminal screw, right? I see nothing on the meter. (Yes, the unit is plugged in.)

Thanks,
Mike


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## wawoodman (May 5, 2011)

Ed,
PM sent.
Mike


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## Highpower (May 5, 2011)

Instead of using the meter, just enter D005 and you will get a visual status of all your input signals.
See page 3 - 6


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## wawoodman (May 26, 2011)

It's done, and it works! 

Many thanks to all of you, for your patience, tips, and insights.


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## Tony Wells (May 26, 2011)

Give it the gas, Ed....let's make some chips!


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## Tony Wells (May 27, 2011)

Well, Ed....I knew that but typed your name anyway. Must have been tired. Apologies.


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