# Dc Motor And Controller Wiring Help Needed



## calstar (Feb 6, 2016)

I'm trying to get my dc motor and controller wired up so I can put it on my lathe(decided not to put it on my mill) instead of the ac its running. I wired the controller to the motor and it ran, reversed and forwarded, potentiometer functioned but there was a low humming/buzzing sound and something was smoking a little(pretty sure the magic smoke didn't all get out). Shut it off, checked to see if I wired it the same as it was when I first got the motor and it was, however, I usually take pics of wiring(and almost everything else) as I take things apart but this time I made a small diagram and took a picture of that(don't remember why) so maybe I drew it incorrectly. I also discovered that the motor was getting current  even when switched to the off position(yikes!! motor smoked  a little in the off position, disconnected  as soon as I saw it).


The pics should help explain what I did  and perhaps get some input from some of you more knowledgeable than I(which shouldn’t be hard).

the motor and controller, the motor has two brown wires(labled A1 A2) and two black(F1 F2), what do the A and F mean?












The controller has a red, brown, white, black and ground connecting to the motor: the diagram/note I made, I'm hoping I mislabeled and that I've reversed connections on two of the wires and its a simple fix, thought I should ask here rather than risk screwing up the motor



Point of reference:  you're looking at the red, brown, black and white wires as they enter the controller from the motor.

wiring inside controller, the black and white terminations, the black connects to ac "block" -, the white to whatever that thing is



brown and red both terminate at the on/off, forward and reverse switch which are out of focus but that’s where they connect, there're in focus coming into the controller but not as they go towards the switch



thanks in advance for any help conning my way,  Brian

PS  really looking forward to having  this motor on my lathe!


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## jim18655 (Feb 6, 2016)

A=armature and F= field. The armature rotates and does the work so it is usually the larger pair of wires. The field creates the magnetic field around the armature instead of having permanent magnets in the motor. A picture of the terminal board in the controller would be helpful


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## calstar (Feb 6, 2016)

Thanks *Contact*, I'll get a pic of the board tomorrow.   Any one know which is more likely(or possible) to cause the problem, incorrect wiring of  the field or the armature?  I don't understand(among other things) how the current bypassed the off switch on the controller, seems like whatever caused that is key to solving the issue.  Red and brown go from the armature directly to the switch  so if I wired the armature wires ion the wrong order would that allow current to go through "open" contact?

 Brian


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## TOOLMASTER (Feb 6, 2016)

you wired it to the input?


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## TOOLMASTER (Feb 6, 2016)

first make sure the on off cuts all power..did it have 2 cords on it already..one with a 220 plug?
one out cord

output
2 wires will have a constant voltage when on(field)...other 2 (armature) will be variable


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## JimDawson (Feb 6, 2016)

Do you have a wiring diagram for the controller?  Something is not making sense here.


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## TOOLMASTER (Feb 6, 2016)

or a


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## TOOLMASTER (Feb 6, 2016)

black and red "should " be armature..

white brown should have dc voltage when on and dial at 0


once you get it going..to change direction swap armature wires


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## jim18655 (Feb 7, 2016)

.


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## calstar (Feb 7, 2016)

Answers to questions raised:

_*Toolmaster  *  first make sure the on off cuts all power..did it have 2 cords on it already..one with a 220 plug?
one out cord_
yes, 220 plug with power going into the controller, then 1 cord with brown, black, red, white and ground to motor

_*Jim Dawson*    Do you have a wiring diagram for the controller? Something is not making sense here._

don't have a diagram and nothing on the inside or outside of the controller

_black and red "should " be armature.._

I'll change the black to A1  from F2, the brown to F2 from A1 and give it try 

Brian


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## calstar (Feb 8, 2016)

calstar said:


> _black and red "should " be armature.._
> I'll change the black to A1  from F2, the brown to F2 from A1 and give it try
> 
> Brian



Well that didn't work out too well! Blew a fuse, actually two but I don't know if one was from the first time I tried powering it up using my diagram/note.  Need to find some 8amp 3ag fuses locally or order from the net

_white brown should have dc voltage when on and dial at 0
_
I was getting power when I s tested the white and brown but only in the reverse position, nothing in the forward position, but this could have been caused by the forward position fuse being blown previously. My quest continues(soon as I source   8amp 3ag fuses.

Brian


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## TOOLMASTER (Feb 8, 2016)

The damage may have been done already..unfortunatly speed controls are not very forgiving,,, hopefully the fuses blew first


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## calstar (Feb 9, 2016)

fingers crossed!!  B


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## TOOLMASTER (Feb 9, 2016)

was it working/tested before it was taken appart


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## calstar (Feb 9, 2016)

I bought a Clausing 8530 mill and this was it's power, probably 1.5 years ago.  The mill was in OK shape but I decided to rebuild it, bearings, paint, etc. Got about 60% done and lucked into another 8530 in pristine condition, at this point I lost momentum on the rebuild, and I never started the motor until now when I've run into difficulties.   

_*was it working/tested before it was taken apart?* _Yes, when I bought it I ran the motor and it and the controller functioned fine, no smoke or smells, etc, etc. You can see the mill as purchased here:   
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/8530-clausing-mill-table-removal-puzzle.24322/

I have not bought fuses for it yet as the last few days have been very busy but I will try to get them asap and proceed from there.


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