# Located My Oil Leak...now I Need Help!!!



## rherrell (Aug 3, 2015)

I wrote awhile back that my 932 had an oil leak and I THOUGHT it was coming from around the quill. Well I was wrong, it's coming from the speed and gear change levers. You can see it here...
	

		
			
		

		
	










You can also see it on the back of the cover...









Here's a straight on view...
	

		
			
		

		
	






Does anybody know how to fix this, I thought I would ask before I contacted Matt.

THANKS in advance.


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## Kernbigo (Aug 3, 2015)

If there is room put another seal in write in back of the original, and make it a double lip, that will get you on a good part of the shaft. I f you cant get room for another one remove the original and install a new double lip, you can remove it with a seal puller with out a tear down.


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## rherrell (Aug 3, 2015)

Kernbigo said:


> If there is room put another seal in write in back of the original, and make it a double lip, that will get you on a good part of the shaft. I f you cant get room for another one remove the original and install a new double lip, you can remove it with a seal puller with out a tear down.




THANKS for the quick response!

Unfortunately I've never changed an oil seal in my life, is that something I can get locally or do I need to contact Matt for some?  Would I need to drain the oil ?

How do you measure for one, just the shaft O.D.?


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## RJSakowski (Aug 3, 2015)

rherrell said:


> THANKS for the quick response!
> 
> Unfortunately I've never changed an oil seal in my life, is that something I can get locally or do I need to contact Matt for some?  Would I need to drain the oil ?
> 
> How do you measure for one, just the shaft O.D.?



Another possibility: ignore it.  A lathe inherently has all kinds of fluids running around.  If the leak is minor, it is an annoyance and not much more.

If it annoys you too much, you can replace it.  Generically, you will need to know the O.D., I.D. and thickness of the seal. Seals come in different configurations, single lip, double lip, etc.  Check out CR Seals catalog, they have a lot of information about seals and probably the most complete line.  They are apparently part of SKF now. http://www.skf.com/binary/83-129139/Industrial-shaft-seals---10919_2-EN.pdf.  Remember, your are trying to keep oil in which affects the direction of the lips.  For my money a spring loaded seal would be best in this application.  There may be some runout on the shaft which contributed to early failure.

To replace, you would want to drain the oil down to below the shaft.  In the event that the leak is coming from the O.D.(possibly due to a bad machining job), I would coat the O.D. of the new seal with a silicone sealant.  I have never used a puller to pull a seal without disassembly so I can't answer to that.  I have removed seals without disassembly by making a hook to grab the shell of the seal and teasing it out, although on a much bigger seal (PTO shaft on a tractor).

Good luck

Bob


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## Kernbigo (Aug 3, 2015)

Yes all you need to know is I.d., o.d., and width, and make sire it is a double lip. It is a matter of getting it out with anything pointed and curved, may have a video on u tube. Putting it in use a socket the a few thousand small than the o.d. of the seal.


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## coolidge (Aug 3, 2015)

OR keep it simple...get yourself a tube of Permatex Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker, I picked up a tube at my local Autozone. Run a bead around the shift lever shaft leaving a small donut of free space so the shaft can turn. You will basically seal the front face plate to the casting similar to sealing a valve cover on an engine. I used this stuff to seal the top of my mill gear head, plus some holes that were drilled/tapped in the side of the head below the oil line, it leaks nada now. Of course be sure to clean this area with Acetone or brake cleaner so that its oil/grease free.


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## rherrell (Aug 3, 2015)

I don't think this is a "normal" oil seal, I can't see any metal at all. I don't want to remove it until I get a new one but it's just rubber on the outside.  The exploded view on the parts list shows just one part listed as the oil seal so I think that rubber piece is all there is.


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## Kernbigo (Aug 3, 2015)

as i stated measure od, id and width, go on line to the cr web site and buy it


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## mksj (Aug 3, 2015)

The machine is under warranty, I would suggest contacting QMT/Precision Mathews and get a replacement seal/any suggestions on it's replacement. He may have better quality seals then what comes from the factory. This is a very common machine, so seals should be readily available and you do not need to chase down a seal that you are unfamiliar with the specs/type. Seals are often covered with rubber so you may not see any metal from the side view.

Probably a good time to also drain and replace the oil in the headstock when you replace the seal if you have done so in the last year.


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## KeithK (Aug 3, 2015)

Isn't there a bearing behind the seal?


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## mksj (Aug 3, 2015)

This the diagram fro the RF45, which should be very similar. No ball/roller bearing behind the seal, just retaining ring holding the shaft in. Should be a simple matter of removing the old oil seal and gently tapping in a new one with something like a socket.


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## KeithK (Aug 3, 2015)

Got it, just a shaft with a cam. Should be a simple fix.


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## rherrell (Aug 4, 2015)

mksj said:


> This the diagram fro the RF45, which should be very similar. No ball/roller bearing behind the seal, just retaining ring holding the shaft in. Should be a simple matter of removing the old oil seal and gently tapping in a new one with something like a socket.
> 
> View attachment 108320


Yeah, that's what my drawing looks like, THANK YOU for all the help, all of you have been great.

Matt said he would send me some and he also gave me the size, that way if I ever have this problem again I'll know what to order.
Thanks again everyone.


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## mksj (Aug 4, 2015)

I would replace both seals, looks like the outer hole casting around the seal is pretty uneven. I would suggest you drain the oil in the head if it is old,  pull out the old seals (I often dig into the seal with a sharp pointed metal pick to pry them out), clean the area around the seal. You might use a little silicone sealant on the outside diameter of the seal when installing them if the metal is not even or is rough.

Should be good to go. My hat is off to QMT/Matt for taking care of customers and assistance.


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