# Two Logan questions, counter shaft and back gear.



## John TV (Jun 12, 2020)

I am still such a nuub when it comes to many shop items even though I have had a Logan lathe for more than three years now.  I have a MW 2136 from 1948 which was a family hand-me-down and that machine works great after very simple repairs but that machine does not have a qcgb.  Last year, I purchased a l947 Logan 820 that I knew needed some work but I saw it running and lusted after the qcgb.  I am slowly taking care of the mechanical items as time allows.  So far, new motor, new switches, machined a new motor pulley and new belts.  First time running since I got the machine home.

First question.  Nuub qualities show up here:  noticed a high pitched squeel upon starting the machine, ( I had oiled everything) and it sounded like metal on metal squeel to me.  Started looking at the counter shaft and noticed a fair amount of play at the shaft ends so I am assuming I need at a minimum new bushings or possibly a shaft and bushings.  My question is about removing the shaft.  I dont want to do any damage.  The parts diagram below shows the type I have and it looks like removal is just removing the set screws from the shaft collars and the set screw in the cone pulley and then tap/press the parts out.  Is that the correct way or am I missing something in the drawings.?

Second question.  This seems like it should be obvious but again...nuub!  The pull lever that contr
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
ols the back gear seems to operate in the exact opposite manner than my other Logan and from what is written.   On the 820 the back gear is engaged when the knob is pushed "in" and direct drive is when the knob is "out".  In addition it looks like someone fabricated a rotating "lock" to hold the gear "in" for back gears since it wants to "walk" out without engaging the homemade lock.  I assume the eccentric shaft is 180 degrees out of sinc?  but I see woodruff keys in the drawings, is that possbile with the keys engaged?  I also assume that the whole headstock needs to come out to fix this problem, is that correct?  I haven't looked at spindle run out yet so I'm unsure of bearings but if I go into the head-stock, I'm thinking I will likely do the bearings  too.  Any thoughts?




Your thoughts, comments and expertise are welcomed and appreciated. 

John from Minnesota


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## Nogoingback (Jun 13, 2020)

The countershaft should come out if you loosen all the set screws and slide it apart.

Never heard of a Logan that engaged back gear by pushing the shaft in.  You're probably right: it just needs to be taken apart and adjusted properly.  If you haven't seen it, there are instructions for adjusting the back gears
on Logan's website.  Go Lathe.com, find the FAQ and you'll find it under Machine setup and repair.  You shouldn't have to
remove the headstock to adjust it.  I stuck a screw driver into the headstock to "roll" the gear on the shaft.
Does your lathe have the spring loaded latch on the underside of the shaft?

I bought headstock bearings for mine four years ago at a cost of $211.00 for the large chuck end bearing.
You'll need to source this from Logan since it's a special bearing with no direct equivalent through bearing supply houses.
The small bearing can be sourced from a bearing supply.


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## John TV (Jun 13, 2020)

Thank you. I did not know about adjusting the back gear info from Logan, I will look that up. 

Yes, my 820 back gear knob has the spring latch on the underside. 

I appreciate the confirmation on disassembling the counter shaft. I’m not all that experienced in machine disassembly and I really don’t want to break something. 

Thanks again. 
John from Minnesota 


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## gjmontll (Jun 13, 2020)

Ever since I totally rebuilt my Logan 820 several years ago, I've had a problem with the belt slipping off, sometimes when starting, often when taking even a relatively shallow cut. 
On the countershaft, during disassembly, I made sure that I didn't move the angular alignment adjusting nuts on the c'shaft yoke.
Any tips on fixing this issue?


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## John TV (Jun 13, 2020)

Just checking, your talking about the cone pulleys right not the motor pulley?


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## gjmontll (Jun 13, 2020)

John TV, I am referring to the cone pulleys (countershaft to spindle.)
  Thanks, Greg


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## HarryJM (Jun 13, 2020)

John TV said:


> Thank you. I did not know about adjusting the back gear info from Logan, I will look that up.
> 
> Yes, my 820 back gear knob has the spring latch on the underside.
> 
> ...


When I took my 820 apart for cleaning I cut, with a hack saw, a slit in LA-125 eccentric shaft which allowed me to adjust the eccentric shaft a lot easier.


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## John TV (Jun 13, 2020)

Greg,
I’m the real nuub here so not really qualified to answer the belt problem but I have noticed that my belt tightening adjustment slips a bit allowing the belt to loosen more than desired. It seems that is when I notice the belt coming off more. Maybe try tightening the belt a bit and see if that helps at all. 

John


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## John TV (Jun 13, 2020)

Harry, that is a great tip. May have to borrow that one. 
John


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## Herk (Jun 17, 2020)

Not all Logans had the countershaft bushings (number 0799 in illustration).  Ours didn't, just the shaft running in cast iron.  Easy fix as the shaft (5.8" IIRC) and the appropriate Oilite bushing stock was economically procured locally.  Because these bushings are somewhat out of sight and may get missed when oiling the machine, I've thought about adding oiling cups to make for a bit of a reservoir.  Maybe next time I have the drive assembly apart.


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## John TV (Jun 17, 2020)

Herk, 
Do you know how old your lathe is? Or the serial number? I have not looked yet but don’t remember seeing bushings either. 


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## Nogoingback (Sep 11, 2020)

Congrats on getting the countershaft sorted.
Did you ever get the back gear adjusted properly?


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## John TV (Sep 11, 2020)

Haven’t tried yet. Hope to get to that soon. Seems like life and projects always put me behind. Doesn’t help that I am so slow at most projects. Lol. 


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## Nogoingback (Sep 11, 2020)

Adjusting the back gears may take a few tries to get it right, but just keep at it.  The suggestion to slot the shaft is a good one,
but you have to take it apart to cut the slot.  I just used a screwdriver angled down through the headstock to roll the gears and
it worked fine.  

Before you start, make sure the latch located under the back gear. engagement shaft is working properly.


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