# Clausing 8530 paint



## calstar (Dec 11, 2014)

Finally started to paint my 8530 after having it sit in parts for more than a few months. I'm not going nuts on the paint, lots of dings and scrapes were left in the original paint(which is *not* removed) my goal is only to have a nice looking mill, not a full restoration with perfect paint. I've painted more than a few machines(metal and wood) using roller, brush and rustoleum with pretty good results, thought I'd share my method. 

I degrease the parts using thinner in a spray bottle and scotchbrite pads, then sand with 120 and wipe down with acetone.  Using rattle can primer on this one as I had a couple of cans from other projects, three *light* coats. Let dry a few days and then thin the paint(rustoleoum smoke gray) about 5-10% thinner, first *very ligh*t(no possibility of runs) coat is rolled on(6" long "weenie" 1/4" nap roller) and let "flash" dry for only a few minutes, *second light* coat rolled on a a section at a time and brushed out before I go on to the next section to smooth the roller nap marks, pics here are the results of those steps. I'll let that dry for a few days, lightly sand with 320, and repeat the very light/light roller method and that should do it for what my goal is. I remove the masking right after painting, this prevents the masking from lifting off any paint as it sometimes done if the paint is dry, takes so little time to remask its worth to me. The paint then cures for around a month before assembling, hard not to rush this step but less likely to ding it badly when reassembling. 

All painting is done outside as any oil based paint fumes are nasty, lucky that I live in socal where this is possible year round. I'll post a few pics as I move through the job. Almost forgot, I don't worry about paint getting in the threaded holes as I have plenty of taps to chase the threads, makes it nice to reassemble with clean threads.

Hopes this helps a few out, it really isn't hard to get a decent durable finish this way using *multiple light coats*.

Brian


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## w9jbc (Dec 11, 2014)

I have both and 8540 and an 8520 both need some serious work. I had hoped to find advise on resurrecting them here at some point


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## calstar (Dec 12, 2014)

few more parts cleaned/primed.... Brian

as found







cleaned with thinner, sanded(#220), acetone wiped







first very light "tack/flash" coat, full coverage is not necessary so don't be concerned if you have "holidays"








2nd and 3rd coats applied within one hour as per rattle can instructions

scratch on lower front was made in wet primer, easy to sand that out(way easier than sanding out scratches in original paint)


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## davidh (Dec 13, 2014)

looks great. and a nice job besides.  i only wish i had the patients to do that too.  my mind floats towards epoxy or base / clear making it much more complicated that need be.  i do however have a Croix Air heated hi voluum / low pressure system that is great for exactly what your doing, but alas, it sits unused for whatever excuse i can come up with.


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## 34_40 (Dec 13, 2014)

Looks like it coming along nicely.   I noticed yours has the belt guard, wish mine had stayed but it was lost along the way...

Your doing a good job - thanks for sharing the pics and the progress.


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## calstar (Dec 13, 2014)

Todays work, base which was tough to clean, first scrubbed with hot water/detergent,rinsed, tried thinner and scotchbrite on top, spent too much time trying to make it work. Went to fallback for tough cleanup, cold application EasyOff oven cleaner, let sit for two hrs, stiff scraper and 40yrs(+-) of hardened crud melts off. Obvious but I only use the scraper on flat surfaces. Two solid hrs of work.

Brian

pics showing the steps


as purchased, pretty scuzzy






hot suds did not do squat



wasted too much time to get this far with thinner and scotchbrite, break out the Easy Off









rinsed, next steps sanding, acetone wipe, prime


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## 34_40 (Dec 14, 2014)

I just noticed that in the last picture some "feet" were added on the outside, perhaps to add "levelers"?   Is this correct?

On mine the feet and levelers are just inside on the corners.  Is your base the same? Are threaded holes just inside at the corners?ondering:


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## Bill Gruby (Dec 14, 2014)

When painting mine we computer matched the color. Rustoleum Machine Grey and 3 shots of Black pigment. Perfect Match.

 "Billy G"


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## emasbury (Dec 14, 2014)

w9jbc said:


> I have both and 8540 and an 8520 both need some serious work. I had hoped to find advise on resurrecting them here at some point



Would consider selling some parts for the 8520? I need both quill feed handles. Thanks.


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## calstar (Dec 14, 2014)

34_40 said:


> I just noticed that in the last picture some "feet" were added on the outside, perhaps to add "levelers"?   Is this correct?
> 
> On mine the feet and levelers are just inside on the corners.  Is your base the same? *Are threaded holes just inside at the corners?*ondering:




Yes.  Brian


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## calstar (Dec 14, 2014)

Here's the stand, 3 coats primer on the top and one coat body. I did not use primer on the body as the paint was very sound under all the crud, I did hit it with #120 paper, acetone wiped, rolled and brushed out side by side. Its important to brush out the rolled paint immediately after application to knock down the nap pattern to get the finish as smooth as possible(without a lot of sanding after its dried). Also applied 1st coat on belt guards.

Brian





compared to the belt guard(castings) this plate is very flat and smooth so the paint "lays out" well




with some light #220(or finer) sanding before the next coat these should smooth out a little more


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## calstar (Dec 17, 2014)

I got  little more done yesterday evening, 2nd and final coat on most of the larger pieces. I sanded these with #220 _very lightly_ as the paint is still very soft, probably didn't need to sand at all as far as adhesion goes but I like to think this sanding  at least  makes for a slightly smoother surface. Again, the purpose of this project is not to have an as new finish buy only to have a decent finish within a reasonable(for me) amount of time/hrs worked; compared to many of the awesome restores done by members here this is very basic. 

Embarrassing to say I cannot find the front belt guard piece anywhere, must have had a "senior moment", carried it someplace, set it down and just don't know where it is. I checked the dates I took the pics and there it is just before priming the other two belt guard pieces, holy s#@t I hope it turns up!

here's a few more pics.  Brian



lightly sanded stand door and piece of belt guard



lighty sanded stand body and top before final and 1st coat respectively



2nd and final coat on stand body and 1st on stand top



final coats on belt guards and stand door, camera flash makes the color off, parts in background truer to color


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## calstar (Dec 21, 2014)

Slowly progressing, holidays, family, etc. taking top priority.  I decided to use rattle can smoke gray(rustoleum) for most of the small(er) parts, just more time efficient and no brush clean up which takes about the same time as spraying the parts. On these small parts I degrease and then use a fine wire wheel to strip most the paint off, again followed by acetone wipe down. Pics of rapid feed gear covers below.


Brian

as found 



ready to prime(actually took a little more paint off with the wire wheel, all paint remaining is sound)


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## calstar (Dec 23, 2014)

This is probably starting to get boring but I'm continuing to post pics I take for my personal documentation. I forgot to put the finish rattle can pics of the of the speed handle cover parts from the pic above(doh!), here they are. Not a lot of difference between the finish of the roll/brush vs the rattle, especially given the not perfect finish of the castings. I prefer the roll/brush method but for small parts rattle is more convenient. I finally found the front belt cover, its rattled too. 

HAPPY HOLIDAYS, Brian







Most of what is done as of yesterday



Couldn't not put this pic from yesterday of sunset on the mtns viewing from backyard, 75 degrees, supposed to be 80 today(crazy right?). Mostly sandstone faces exposed on the mtns, the sunsets are quite often like this. The farthest peak is La Cumbre Peak,4000' alt and 5 miles+- from the pacific, in the Coastal range, the only range on the Ca coast that runs east/west and not north/south


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