# Green Newb here. Why do I need a rotary table?



## drs23 (Feb 19, 2014)

...The reason I axe is I'm picking up  a new "to me" mill this weekend and for an additional $400 it comes with a rotary table. Before you ask, I  what size/kind. My question like in the heading is: Why do I need one? I talked to my machinist friend and he tells me I'll never use it since we're going to install DRO with bolt circle pattern app. He tells me he hasn't used one in twenty years and he runs a mill all day, every day.

I've Googled them all afternoon and it seems as though (see thread here) SOME people use them. Would I be better off keeping the 400 bucks in my pocket or get the mill and EVERYTHING that is with it?

Thanks for your time and replies.

Dale


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## FanMan (Feb 19, 2014)

It depends on what you want to do.  I can't see needing it for bolt circles, but it's essential for milling curves unless you have CNC.

Whether it's worth $400 depends on what size table it is... it might make more sense to buy one later if and when you need it.


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## darkzero (Feb 19, 2014)

RTs are not for just drilling circle hole patterns. I picked up a RT mainly for turning radii, can't really do that cleanly with just a DRO.


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## xalky (Feb 19, 2014)

There are other applications besides bolt circles. If you need to mill out a radius groove on a part, you would need a rotary table. Radius and circle work on the mill is what its used for. Did you ever try to etch a sketch a circle? thats the dilemna you'll have if you need to. Pay now or pay later, that's what i say.) If you don't see yourself needing it, then , by all means , don't buy it.


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## ScrapMetal (Feb 19, 2014)

It all depends on what you need to mill.  If one isn't using a CNC setup there are jobs where a RT is indispensable.  I've used mine on a number of projects, the latest one being a Christmas gift for my wife...




Just try cutting one of those arcs on a lathe or by just using your DRO.

Just because your buddy has no use for one doesn't mean that you won't.

-Ron


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## drs23 (Feb 19, 2014)

Great points guys! Just what I was looking for. Seems like with a RT all one needs is some scrap and an imagination huh? (I often find myself lacking in the imagination dept.) Please keep the ideas coming.


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## Bill Gruby (Feb 19, 2014)

It makes this easy.

 "Billy G"


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## CNC Dude (Feb 19, 2014)

Even if you have CNC, a RT will be helpful in some cases. For example, I used mine once to cut a circle which was larger than what my CNC table could move to. In essence, it makes the table area larger without upgrading the mill.

With that being said, make sure the $400 are a good deal. It is possible RT's come up in the CL and/or eBay for less than that.

I can tell you I still regret selling my first 8" and practically new RT on eBay. It went for... $80!!! This was about 9 years ago and it still hurts...


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## Metalbender (Feb 19, 2014)

I wouldn't be without my rt.  Indispensable for certain jobs.  Used mine extensively to build the drum mag for my Ruger/ Tommy gun posted in the gun forum here.


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## george wilson (Feb 19, 2014)

If you are going to make models you will need one. There are many parts that are circular,but have things sticking out of the circle here and there. You can't turn a non continuous circle on the lathe very well. For this situation,a rotary table will be needed.

I like your way of graduating your dial,Bill.

The 360º graduations on this surveyor's compass were graduated on an 8" Enco rotary table.It says David Brinkley because I was commissioned to make it for him. He was a famous newsman back in the 50's-70's.

Normally,the holes in this indexing attachment would be done on a rotary table. At the time though,I HAD no indexing attachment,and hand spaced these with a pair of dividers. It goes on a 6" rotary table. The rotary tables usually require calculations in the holes based on 90:1 ratio. The little numbers seen near true holes in the brass indexing plate are 1/32" high with serifs. I spent years finding old letter and number sets with serifs.

Actually,though,I more often use my Hardinge horizontal/vertical indexing attachment that uses 5C collets as I do a lot of small work and jewelry models for my wife's jewelry business.

You can enlarge the compass and the side view of the index plate by clicking in the image 3 times. I should have wiped the dust off of the index plate!! 2 images won't enlarge.


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## Bill C. (Feb 19, 2014)

drs23 said:


> ...The reason I axe is I'm picking up  a new "to me" mill this weekend and for an additional $400 it comes with a rotary table. Before you ask, I  what size/kind. My question like in the heading is: Why do I need one? I talked to my machinist friend and he tells me I'll never use it since we're going to install DRO with bolt circle pattern app. He tells me he hasn't used one in twenty years and he runs a mill all day, every day.
> 
> I've Googled them all afternoon and it seems as though (see thread here) SOME people use them. Would I be better off keeping the 400 bucks in my pocket or get the mill and EVERYTHING that is with it?
> 
> ...



I agree with your friend.  I can't recall using one in my career. Then again some may use one on a regular bases.  Just depends on what type of projects you may run into.  Buy one when you think you will need one.


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## valleyboy101 (Feb 19, 2014)

If you go for the RT, it should really come with a tailstock, which is very useful if you need to support a shaft while you mill splines etc. 
MIchael


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## dave2176 (Feb 19, 2014)

I've only had a mill since September but I use a rotary table almost as often as I use the vise. I'm sure many would never use one but I can't imagine how to do what I've done without it. Mine is the 6" Grizzly with indexing plates and tailstock for $336 so for $400 I hope you are getting much more table.

Dave


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## Smudgemo (Feb 19, 2014)

If you can afford to buy it now and sell it for most of your investment later if/when you don't use it, I'd say to buy it (assuming it's worth asking price, of course.)  You can buy 8" imports from Enco for under $300, but I'd personally prefer to spend the extra for a higher quality version.

If it's not a fair deal or is a financial strain, pass and buy one when you want it.  

-Ryan


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## drs23 (Feb 19, 2014)

xalky said:


> There are other applications besides bolt circles. If you need to mill out a radius groove on a part, you would need a rotary table. Radius and circle work on the mill is what its used for. *Did you ever try to etch a sketch a circle? *thats the dilemna you'll have if you need to. Pay now or pay later, that's what i say.) If you don't see yourself needing it, then , by all means , don't buy it.



Perfect analogy Marcel. I watched some videos when I got home. Should have done that earlier.:whistle: The Trainman uses the heck outta his!

I didn't know about being able to turn larger things than my lathe will swing either. THAT ALONE will pay dividends!


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## Senna (Feb 19, 2014)

Get the RT but negotiate a lower price.

You can buy some very nice RT's for $400

That said, it seems Don is selling you his mill for a very fair price and maybe paying full retail for his RT would be a gesture of appreciation even if it isn't the best bargain you could find.

I'm excited for you!!

- - - Updated - - -



george wilson said:


> If you are going to make models you will need one. There are many parts that are circular,but have things sticking out of the circle here and there. You can't turn a non continuous circle on the lathe very well. For this situation,a rotary table will be needed.
> 
> I like your way of graduating your dial,Bill.
> 
> ...



Absolutely exquisite work George and seeing it always makes me realize how high the bar can be set.


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## ScrapMetal (Feb 20, 2014)

drs23 said:


> Perfect analogy Marcel. I watched some videos when I got home. Should have done that earlier.:whistle: The Trainman uses the heck outta his!
> 
> I didn't know about being able to turn larger things than my lathe will swing either. THAT ALONE will pay dividends!



I just remembered another little project that I haven't quite gotten to that will be done on the RT.  

I'm putting a BDL belt drive on my Shovelhead build along with a Baker 6 in a 4 tranny.  The BDL instructions say that I need to mill down the back edge of the clutch basket by 0.10" or so to get clearance.  While that could be done straight on the mill (etch-a-sketch style), the RT will give me better consistency around the edge.

I'd say to find out more about the RT, make, size, horizontal or horizontal/vertical (big difference in price usually) and if it's "worth it", go for it.

-Ron


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## sinebar (Feb 20, 2014)

As the Valleyboy said: get it with a tailstock so you can mount the RT vertically on the table. You will then have the capability to make gears and splines.


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## drs23 (Feb 20, 2014)

ScrapMetal said:


> I just remembered another little project that I haven't quite gotten to that will be done on the RT.
> 
> I'm putting a BDL belt drive on my Shovelhead build along with a Baker 6 in a 4 tranny.  The BDL instructions say that I need to mill down the back edge of the clutch basket by 0.10" or so to get clearance.  While that could be done straight on the mill (etch-a-sketch style), the RT will give me better consistency around the edge.
> 
> ...



That's kinda the dividend(s) I was alluding to Ron. I do a lot of broken lip repair on LH cases. The one that receives th 0-ring between the motor and inner primary. I've always had to have Tom do them at his shop because my lathe won't swing the case. I can now do these on the spot "in house". No waiting and at the same time not feeling like I'm a burden on a good friend who's working 50-65 hours a week already.



sinebar said:


> As the Valleyboy said: get it with a tailstock so you can mount the RT vertically on the table. You will then have the capability to make gears and splines.



I'm not sure exactly what style/type this particular RT is. It's pictured mounted on the mill in the other thread if anyone can tell by looking at it.


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## george wilson (Feb 20, 2014)

Ah,yes. Gears. I had forgotten about gears. I don't understand this,but click on the blue line of info for a different view. These are those pesky tapered gears.


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## drs23 (Feb 20, 2014)

george wilson said:


> Ah,yes. Gears. I had forgotten about gears. I don't understand this,but click on the blue line of info for a different view. These are those pesky tapered gears.



Another example of your outstanding work. Thanks for posting that George.


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## sinebar (Feb 20, 2014)

drs23 said:


> I'm not sure exactly what style/type this particular RT is. It's pictured mounted on the mill in the other thread if anyone can tell by looking at it.


 
The RT pictured on the birmingham can be mounted either way.




Mr. Wilson, You are a fine craftsman!


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## Plum Creek (Feb 21, 2014)

drs
Another green newbe here. This week I got to use my Yuasa 10" rt for the first time. I needed a 2.1" hole in a large irregular shaped 1" plate. It worked out great. Indicatiing and workholding can be a bit trying the first time, but it just takes a little patience.


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## ScrapMetal (Feb 21, 2014)

drs23 said:


> That's kinda the dividend(s) I was alluding to Ron. I do a lot of broken lip repair on LH cases. The one that receives th 0-ring between the motor and inner primary. I've always had to have Tom do them at his shop because my lathe won't swing the case. I can now do these on the spot "in house". No waiting and at the same time not feeling like I'm a burden on a good friend who's working 50-65 hours a week already.
> 
> I'm not sure exactly what style/type this particular RT is. It's pictured mounted on the mill in the other thread if anyone can tell by looking at it.



I had to have that done for the same Shovel build I mentioned earlier (it's been an expensive build).  At the time I had no mill and my lathe only has an 11" swing so I farmed it out to a guy I trusted down in Florida (did a nice job btw).  I'm not sure if that RT you're looking at will be big enough for that job on it's own but you can most assuredly make a plate/fixture to hold the case half and mount it to the RT.  The bigger the RT the better!  At least until you have to pick them up.   My little 9" Troyke RT weighs about 75 lbs they go up from there real quick.

As already mentioned, the one in the pics is a horizontal/vertical model and will hopefully come with a tailstock.

-Ron


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