# Dead Blow Hammer



## EmilioG (Mar 26, 2017)

Hey Guys, I'm looking for a new dead blow mallet for setting work in a vise on parallels.
I don't want to destroy anything so what type and weight is reasonable for this work?
I've been looking at Garland, Lixie, Halder, Nupla and others.  Rawhide, plastic, urethane, replac. tips,
and on and on....Please advise. Thanks


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## Ed ke6bnl (Mar 26, 2017)

What about lead?


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## Bob Korves (Mar 26, 2017)

Actual dead blow hammers are pretty much lead, or plastic with shot in them.  They do not bounce enough to matter.  I have two sizes of orange HF dead blow hammers, am completely happy with them, and want for no others.  I have brass, urethane, rawhide, and others, but they are not dead blow.  They rebound.  They do have their uses, where rapping without marring is more important than really moving something, where the dead blow hammer excels, when considering effort vs. results.

Edit:  Lead is also good, but becomes badly distorted with use (more or less, depending on hardness), is toxic, and will need to be re-cast after some time.  I do not have one, but would not turn one down for occasional use.


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## EmilioG (Mar 26, 2017)

No lead for me. I like the idea of interchangeable tips also. I've read great things about the Rawhide dead blow mallets.
I don't think you can ever have enough hammers.


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## ghostdncr (Mar 26, 2017)

I've been using a 1" Lixie for decades now, along with a small section (3/4 OD x 2-1/2") of  round copper bar for fine work.


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## mikey (Mar 26, 2017)

I like and use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002T1GX36/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The faces are changeable and the hammer works well - no bouncing. The faces are plastic but firm, not cushy like some.


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## ddickey (Mar 26, 2017)

Harry J has some good looking ones.
https://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/catalogsearch/result/index/?p=1&q=dead+blow+hammer


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## Bob Korves (Mar 26, 2017)

EmilioG said:


> No lead for me. I like the idea of interchangeable tips also. I've read great things about the Rawhide dead blow mallets.
> I don't think you can ever have enough hammers.


I have a nice smaller rawhide mallet.  It is lightweight for it's size (opposite of lead) and is not suitable for really whacking anything.  Also, Emilio, you were saying it is for tapping down work in a vise.  For that work, with sharp edges and corners, a rawhide mallet would be torn up pretty quickly.  Lead, copper, soft brass, or plastic dead blow would likely be better for your purpose.  Many knowledgeable machinists use a hand held chunk of copper or soft brass rod as a "knocker", no handle at all.

I understand the classic feeling of using traditional tools like an old school craftsman might have used them, along with wearing a leather apron, but I also am a pragmatist, and what I really want is the work knocked down solidly in the vise.


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## darkzero (Mar 26, 2017)

These are the hammers I keep by the mill. The Wiha I use for tapping parts. The Nupla handleless hammer I use for the drawbar but I also use for tapping parts sometimes. Both are deadblows. The Matco/Nupla is not a deadblow but it has interchangeable faces with different hardnesses. The faces simply unscrew to change unlike the Wiha hammers which are pressed on. A couple of the Garland rawhide hammers are on my wish list but not for use for setting parts in the vise.


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## Reeltor (Mar 27, 2017)

For setting work in the mill vise I tend to use one of the plastic filled with shot dead blow hammers.  I do have a couple of Garland split head hammers and really like them.  I have one of the #3 hammers with what I think is nylon faces.  It has heft to hit with without marring the work.
I have a couple of Stanley plastic face hammers, they are OK for what they are but I almost always pick up either a dead blow or one of the Garlands first.

Mike
http://www.garlandmfg.com/mallets/split.html


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## projectnut (Mar 27, 2017)

Bob Korves said:


> Actual dead blow hammers are pretty much lead, or plastic with shot in them.  They do not bounce enough to matter.  I have two sizes of orange HF dead blow hammers, am completely happy with them, and want for no others.  I have brass, urethane, rawhide, and others, but they are not dead blow.  They rebound.  They do have their uses, where rapping without marring is more important than really moving something, where the dead blow hammer excels, when considering effort vs. results.
> 
> Edit:  Lead is also good, but becomes badly distorted with use (more or less, depending on hardness), is toxic, and will need to be re-cast after some time.  I do not have one, but would not turn one down for occasional use.



I would agree with your choice.  Over the years I've had many different brands and styles of "dead blow" hammers.  Lead was the choice 40 years ago.  The only downside is they had to be remelted and recast on an almost annual basis  The first plastic ones I bought were Snap On.  They did an ok job, but over the years the plastic reacted to the coolants and cutting oils.  A few years ago they started turning white and eventually large pieces of plastic broke off each time they were used.  I didn't trust them anymore, but,  I was in a hurry and didn't want to do extensive research, so I bought a couple HF ones to get me through.  I still have them and have added several more in the last few years.  Even if they do fail (which I see no signs of) they're inexpensive enough they can be tossed in the trash and replaced on a regular basis.


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## sanddan (Mar 27, 2017)

I'd love to have a Lixie like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/LIXIE-Face-D...8&qid=1490655175&sr=1-1&keywords=lixie+hammer


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## Bob Korves (Mar 27, 2017)

I use the hell out of my two HF dead blow hammers, and have for some years.  They do not show any damage or wear.  They are also cheap, especially on sale, 20-25% discount coupon, and also a freebie.


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## JimDawson (Mar 27, 2017)

I have been buying HF dead blow hammers for years, finally wore a couple of them out and had to but a couple more.  As said above, they are cheap to buy and are pretty rugged.  I do wish they would put lead shot in them rather than steel shot.  The old lead shot ones seem to work better.


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## Tozguy (Mar 27, 2017)

The lack of feel from a dead blow hammer will sometimes bother me. To tap into position without marring anything I like using a small ball peen hammer and a dowel of the right size for the job at hand. I have a range of dead blow dowels (wood, brass & aluminum) as well as a broad range of hammers each being designed for a special purpose but my 60 year old ball peen hammer is my favourite.


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## Bob Korves (Mar 27, 2017)

Tozguy said:


> The lack of feel from a dead blow hammer will sometimes bother me. To tap into position without marring anything I like using a small ball peen hammer and a dowel of the right size for the job at hand. I have a range of dead blow dowels (wood, brass & aluminum) as well as a broad range of hammers each being designed for a special purpose but my 60 year old ball peen hammer is my favourite.


That works, but it takes two hands.  Sometimes it matters...


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## kd4gij (Mar 27, 2017)

I have been using HF dead blow hammers for ever.  And for interchangeable hammer why buy something so easy to make?


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## ELHEAD (Mar 27, 2017)

Does anyone use wooden mallets. Been making my own for years, poplar for light weight. Oak , hickory, dogwood, even Osage orange for harder beating.


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## JPMacG (Mar 27, 2017)

I'll vote for the orange Harbor Freight hammers.  I have the medium sized one and it is about right for tapping work into a vise.  HF also has a hammer with plastic pads that I like to use for tapping smaller work into a vise.


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## darkzero (Mar 27, 2017)

kd4gij said:


> And for interchangeable hammer why buy something so easy to make?



For me, cause I was an auto mechanic back when I bought mine. Back then, the only lathe I knew of & had ever used was a brake lathe.


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## Bob Korves (Mar 27, 2017)

ELHEAD said:


> Does anyone use wooden mallets. Been making my own for years, poplar for light weight. Oak , hickory, dogwood, even Osage orange for harder beating.


I have a couple nice hickory mallets.  Hardly ever use them, though.  Hammer drawer eye candy.  They will probably be passed on in pristine condition to the next generation, the third one...


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## Tozguy (Mar 28, 2017)

ELHEAD said:


> Does anyone use wooden mallets. Been making my own for years, poplar for light weight. Oak , hickory, dogwood, even Osage orange for harder beating.



Funny you should ask, just made up a maple stable mate for my old beech mallet. Couldn't bring myself to burn an old railing that was replaced recently so I made up a mallet with some of it. Fun little project to do with the grandkids. These are strictly reserved for wood chisel work so we will probably never see the end of them.


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## EmilioG (Mar 28, 2017)

Hammer Source.com has the Garland hammers. I'm leaning towards the Nupla Impax dead blow, but will probably buy several hammers.
A very small brass hammer for lightly tapping work into place also. The Snap On Bronze tip hammer is awesome. I work on my cars, so that one
will last a long time.  I think I'm up to 12 hammers and mallets so far.   They all have their applications.  A Starrett tech suggested a 30 lb. dead blow for 
installing press fit pins into Tap wrench handles!  I found out when I recently repaired a vintage Starrett 91c.


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## chips&more (Mar 28, 2017)

I use a lead hammer. When the lead deforms to the point of no return, I swap it out for a new replacement. I made a mold and simply cast new heads using fishing weights and even the worn out heads. Been using the lead hammer for 50 years. Tried the other hammers, went back to using the lead hammer. And not every job I do gets hit with a lead hammer. I have a Kurt vise that does a good job of holding things without the help of smacking you project every time…Dave.


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## pstemari (Mar 29, 2017)

I have Stanley, Proto, and Estwing dead-blows. The Estwing is the nicest of them, but the Proto and Stanley ones are fine, too.

The GJ folks like Trusty-Cook dead blows, but I haven't tried one yet.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


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## darkzero (Mar 29, 2017)

+1 on Trusty Cook, more popular amongst mechanics & DIY guys rather than machinists.

Vaughn, Thor, & Gedore also makes excellent hammers.

I just ordered an OSCA dead blow to try out, Italian.


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## ki4byz (Apr 1, 2017)

Just my option Lixie is the best


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## bfd (Apr 2, 2017)

lead works the best for me you can still find them. don't chew on them. bill


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## fitterman1 (Apr 2, 2017)

Here's what I have at this point in time.



10lb lead, double copper Thor, copper/rawhide Thor, smallest size Thor and a teeny tapper for micro adjustments.
The small Thor I've had for 30 yrs and its due for replacement. The double copperhead Thor is a recent garage sale $3 bargain, these sell for well over $50 here.
The lead hammer is an old departmental item from the waterworks where I did my apprenticeship, made inhouse with a length of reo bar set in the handle for strength.
Weighs about 15lbs and good for knocking the daylights out of anything. No need to smack workpieces on the mill with this, just light taps.


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## Bi11Hudson (Apr 2, 2017)

A philisophical point, to me, on the use of "dead blow" hammers: I personally don't use 'em. at all. If something has to be hit hard enough to bounce the hammer, take a second look at what is being hit, You wouldn't use a tack hammer on a bulldozer and wouldn't use a 15 pound sledge on a watch. Each one has it's uses and purposes. I use lead in the machine shop, rawhide in the electric shop (copper windings) and brass for my models. The hammer has to be heavy enough to move your work alone. If you have to swing hard enough for the hammer to bounce, the hammer's too small.

Lead is my most frequently used. I cast a new one every few months, with a piece of EMT for a handle. For a fairly big one, a (12 oz) soda can (or beer can) makes a good mold. For the bench size, I use a toilet paper roller wrapped with sheet metal to hold its round shape while I pour the lead. Half to three quarters full makes a good size for general bench use. Brass is shaped as needed on the lathe and a handle put in. I prefer a hickory handle, but that's just me being an old timer. A well shaped metal handle works just as well.

I have a twenty-five pound sledge ("millwright's" hammer), a "B&O" of some 12 pounds after I cut down the punch, and a railroad spike hammer (a "steepnose"?) of about the same weight. And a couple dozen of a lesser size. The big issue is that sometimes you want the hammer harder so it will stand up, such as the spike hammer. And sometimes softer than what you're shoving into place. Such as a joiner's wooden mallet. And the occasional oddball such as a leather hammer for motor windings and hard rubber for thin sheet matal.

With time, hammers are a personal taste issue, depending as much on background as anything. If you use a steel hammer to move a piece of soft metal on a machine, never hit it hard enough to leave a mark or a dent. That's where all those odd metals come in, each softer than the work it's used for. As often as not, a large chunk of copper, brass, aluminium,  wood, plastic, or whatever can serve the purpose just as well. You shape it into a hammer about the third time you use it.


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## Tozguy (Apr 2, 2017)

Bi11Hudson said:


> With time, hammers are a personal taste issue,



especially with a pure zinc hammer like this.


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## fitterman1 (Apr 2, 2017)

Is that a meat tenderizer?


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## Tozguy (Apr 2, 2017)

fitterman1 said:


> Is that a meat tenderizer?



Yes, but I'm hoping to find a use for it in the shop eventually.


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## francist (Apr 2, 2017)

Makes an interesting and rather complimentary piece to Mach89's flail posted last week. 

-frank


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## fitterman1 (Apr 2, 2017)

Try lining the faces with a copper or brass pad a 1/2" thick or so


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