# Sb9a Using Er32?



## SE18 (Mar 14, 2016)

I was thinking of getting an ER32 collet chuck for my headstock MT3 taper. I have a snub nose taper fitting, since I understand SB9As have a weird MT3 length.

Here's what I'm looking to order but wanted to double check to see if this is the correct combo:

http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-38/ER32-MT3-MK3-COLLET/Detail

http://www.ctctools.biz/er32-collet-set-19-pcs-a07/

much thanks!


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## SE18 (Mar 14, 2016)

oh, forgot to add, I'm also looking at this boring bar set for my tailstock MT2

*http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-533/3"-BORING-HEAD-MT2/Detail

same question; thanks*


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## aametalmaster (Mar 14, 2016)

The collet chuck will work but it will stick out farther past the spindle. You should make a drawbar to hold it in place. Which is a threaded rod thru the spindle with a big washer on the left side and a nut. The other end will screw into the chuck...Bob


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## aametalmaster (Mar 14, 2016)

Your bar will need this thread which is easy enough to make with a hand die. Collet Chuck With M12 Drawbar Thread...Bob


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## Ben Nevis (Mar 14, 2016)

The collet chuck is fine, you will need to make a drawbar to secure it in the spindle.

The boring head will work, but I think that you would be better off to mount the boring bars on the compound. Much easier to adjust the cross slide than the boring head, and you will also be able to bore at an angle if needed .


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## aametalmaster (Mar 14, 2016)

The tailstock boring bar will work but its the same idea when using your lathe compound. Don't get me wrong it has other uses like using it to make tapers or make a #3 arbor and use it in your spindle. This is the extra stick out from the #3 MT arbor. You should use a longer collet nut to remove it without beating it out. The standard length is the gray one. The next pic is the boring head in the spindle. Both use a drawbar to hold them in...Bob


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## mikey (Mar 14, 2016)

One of the great advantages to the ER system is that you can pass the work through the collet and out the spindle. The set up you're considering negates that possibility. I am not familiar with how the chucks attach to the SB9 spindle but would try to buy or make one instead of giving up the pass-through capability ... but that's just me. Matthemuppet did one for his Atlas - could you do something like he did?

As to the boring head in the tailstock idea, I would not do that. Boring requires rigidity and there is too much play in the ram for this to work well. You will be much better off using a bar in a good holder locked in the tool post.


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## DoogieB (Mar 14, 2016)

Like Mikey said, you want to be able to pass the stock through the spindle and the max size of the ER32 system is almost exactly the same as the 9A spindle hole.  You can either buy a chuck or make your own:


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## aametalmaster (Mar 14, 2016)

<<<< My profile pic is an ER40 collet chuck...Bob  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/gallery/albums/er-40-collet-chuck.317/


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## mikey (Mar 14, 2016)

DoogieB said:


> Like Mikey said, you want to be able to pass the stock through the spindle and the max size of the ER32 system is almost exactly the same as the 9A spindle hole.  You can either buy a chuck or make your own.



Really like that Doubleboost guy but you have to listen really carefully to get past his accent. 

I recently bought (yes, bought, not made ) an ER-40 direct mount chuck for my lathe and have found it a delight to use. It clamped a leadscrew tightly without damaging the threads so it did exactly what I bought it for. Those chucks that fit a MT and lock with a drawbar are intended for tool holding, which limits its use on a lathe.


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## jocat54 (Mar 14, 2016)

mikey said:


> One of the great advantages to the ER system is that you can pass the work through the collet and out the spindle. The set up you're considering negates that possibility. I am not familiar with how the chucks attach to the SB9 spindle but would try to buy or make one instead of giving up the pass-through capability ... but that's just me. Matthemuppet did one for his Atlas - could you do something like he did?
> 
> As to the boring head in the tailstock idea, I would not do that. Boring requires rigidity and there is too much play in the ram for this to work well. You will be much better off using a bar in a good holder locked in the tool post.



Making a ER chuck for your spindle really isn't very hard (I did it--so anyone should be able to) plus you will really like the pass thru feature.


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## David VanNorman (Mar 14, 2016)

A while back either HSM or machinist had a ER40 collet chuck project . The ER40 goes up to 1 1/8 I believe an easy make .


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## SE18 (Mar 15, 2016)

Thanks; I'm glad I held off on my purchases so I have time to digest your responses and explore options. It sounds like some fabricating will be required as the ER32 chuck doesn't really work well in a SB9A without some way to secure it properly, and no products answer that for this popular style lathe. Seems like if I make one for myself, I can become rich by making multiple ones and selling them and then retiring to Tahiti


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## brino (Mar 15, 2016)

Hi SE18,

I added the Beall ER-32 collet chuck to my SouthBend 9" and like it a lot.

I previously put some pictures here:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/is-there-a-definitive-article-on-collets.36227/#post-308310
and here:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/is-there-a-definitive-article-on-collets.36227/#post-308552

-brino


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## SE18 (Mar 15, 2016)

Thanks Brino, I'll be studying your interesting build and try one before purchasing any ER-32 collets. I had thought to go the 3C route with the drawbar but it was limiting the work diameter; you've given me another project to do now


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## SE18 (Mar 15, 2016)

Brino, I'm now looking through your threads and you mention this company as actually making these:

http://www.bealltool.com/products/turning/colletchuck.php

I'm thinking my SB9A headstock threat might be 1.5X8? 1.5 means the distance of the thread and the 8 is the TPI, right? It's been so long since I looked that up.

So you decided to make your own rather than purchase the Beall Tool collet chuck?


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## aametalmaster (Mar 15, 2016)

Tallgrass tools makes one too. Either a kit or ready made.
http://tallgrasstools.com/products/er-32-collet-adapter-kit-1013
And forget about Tahiti I thought that once but there is way too much work in making multiple chucks to sell...Bob


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## AR1911 (Mar 15, 2016)

Just buy the mt3 chuck and collets now and make chips. Build the pass-through chuck body later, using the nut, wrench collets from the first one

ETA in fact, that is such I deal I am going to do exactly that for my Logan


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## mikey (Mar 15, 2016)

Like Brino, I also own a Beall Tools ER-32 collet chuck to fit my Sherline lathe. It is well made and fits the register on my lathe quite well - I get only 0.0006" runout, which is fine for my use. With ETM collets the run out is lower but I can't recall what the number is. No machining is involved to use the chuck, although I would suggest you check or true the rear face of the chuck to be sure it's flat. You can, of course, make your own or buy a kit. Whether you will achieve the concentricity required of a good ER chuck is another matter.

Beall is a good company and my experience with the owner suggests that he really takes care of his customers. These tools are intended for woodworkers, not metal munchers. Still, I would join Brino in giving this guy's chucks a thumbs up.

The 1.5 is the thread diameter and the 8 is tpi.


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## brino (Mar 15, 2016)

SE18 said:


> So you decided to make your own rather than purchase the Beall Tool collet chuck?



Nope. To be clear I bought the Beall rather than make my own.

I could (probably!) have pulled off the internal taper, but the offset-lip in the nut is another thing.

Like others have done you could purchase a nut and make the threaded adaptor.
As mentioned above @mattthemuppet did a nice one here:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/er25-collet-chuck-for-atlas-618.41636/

It would be a fun project and a great learning experience, I just don't have the time.....

-brino

EDIT:

1) @mikey nailed the lathe spindle thread definition above.

2) I also have nothing but praise for Beall Tools. My two collet chucks were flawless (two different lathes), and Mr Beall himself answered a few questions by email on another product.


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## SE18 (Mar 16, 2016)

Thanks for informing your vote of confidence for Beall. Sounds like he makes quality. I don't think, actually I know, that my meager skills don't come anywhere close to that and precision is pretty important in this regard. I can make a lot of stuff with big tolerances that don't really matter but not something like this.

One other thing I will need to do when I order boring bars today is see how I can mount them on the QCTP. I have one of the cheaper ones from CTC tools (wedge, not piston), so I don't know if the holder diameter is OK or if I need to make or purchase a new QCTP that's more versatile. I think this is the one I have:

http://www.ctctools.biz/quick-change-toolpost-set-6pcs-wedge-type-l137/


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## mikey (Mar 16, 2016)

Your tool post should be fine for boring but the holder might be a bit suspect. I admit to not owning or using that type of holder so I'm not sure but I think those use two cotters to press on the bar from the side. If so it is probably not the most rigid way to hold a bar and I would personally opt for an Aloris 4D holder; it takes 3/4" bars but you can make reduction sleeves to hold smaller bars. 

As far as I know, the Chinese have not reproduced the 4D but I am likely wrong. If you can find one I would go for that. If not, I would spend the money on a genuine 4D because the holder is more important than the boring bar - you can have the best bar in the world but it won't work well if not held rigidly. Short of fusing a bar into a holder, the 4D is the most rigid holder I am aware of that fits on a QCTP.

I also suggest you avoid any holder that screws directly down on a bar. An example of this is the #102 with the v-slot on the bottom. These holders are not rigid enough, will mar your bars and can possibly break a carbide bar.


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## SE18 (Mar 17, 2016)

thanks


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