# Grizzly G0709 On The Way!



## OLEJOE (Mar 20, 2016)

New member here with some questions about the 0709. I know it's big. I know it's heavy. But can someone tell me how it's packaged? Is it assembled or is it broken down? I'm new to machining but I think I can do it. Have friends who have worked in large machine shop. After reading some of the post on here, I'm sure I can figure out what to do. Oh. Did I mention G0709 is already on the way? I've done all the electrical on 2 houses and a shop. Completely plumbed 1 house and built from the dirt up 2 houses and a shop which I'm trying fill up. Thanks in advance for any and all help.


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## Steve Shannon (Mar 20, 2016)

Here's a video that shows exactly what you're asking:







 Steve Shannon, P.E.


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## OLEJOE (Mar 20, 2016)

Thanks. That pretty well tells the tale.


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## Steve Shannon (Mar 20, 2016)

Glad it helped! We'll want pictures of your new lathe in your shop, you know. 


 Steve Shannon, P.E.


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## tmarks11 (Mar 20, 2016)

congrats, pics or it didn't happen!  
 

When the crate says "warning, top heavy" it means it.


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## OLEJOE (Mar 20, 2016)

Will post pics when it arrives. Should be here Tuesday or Wednesday. Will thoroughly document the whole procedure.


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## OLEJOE (Mar 21, 2016)

Well it's on the way. Got my call from the carrier this morning. Will deliver tomorrow. Can't wait.


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## tmarks11 (Mar 21, 2016)

Notice that the manual will specify doing a break-in of the spindle bearings (run it up for 10 minutes at each speed, starting with the lowest speed, takes a couple hours), then drain and refill the headstock.

If you don't have oil for that, Enco is a great place to buy it.  Mobile Vacta 2 for the ways, and Mobile DTE Light for the headstock (gotcha: they sell DTE only in 5 gallon pails, but then the headstock takes more than a gallon).  They always have it on sale, and there is a 20% off sale right now (Coupon:SAVE20).

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=505-1218
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=505-1987


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## BGHansen (Mar 22, 2016)

Congrats!  I really like my G0709.  I added the taper attachment and a 5-C lever style collet closer.  There are a couple of posts showing mine in this Grizzly forum.  One recent mod was to add a shim under the LH side of the chip pan drawer glide to raise the LH side slightly.  If you use coolant, a perfectly level lathe results in a nice puddle of coolant in the chip pan that goes nowhere.  The shim made the RH rear corner/drain the low spot for draining. 

Bruce


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## OLEJOE (Mar 22, 2016)

Well here it is!!!!


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## tmarks11 (Mar 23, 2016)

excellent.

So how do you plan on getting it off the pallet?


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## OLEJOE (Mar 23, 2016)

Good question. I have exposed joists in my shop and I thought I might be able to lift it up off of it.


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## BGHansen (Mar 23, 2016)

The lathe weighs 1300 lbs., may want to consider an engine hoist rental at least.  While you have it in the air you may consider installing leveling feet.  I made mine from some 1/2" thick aluminum plate and 1/2" bolts/nuts.

I'm really happy with my lathe.  To me the universal gear box was the selling point; turn one knob to switch from English to Metric threading and back.

Bruce


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## tmarks11 (Mar 23, 2016)

OLEJOE said:


> Good question. I have exposed joists in my shop and I thought I might be able to lift it up off of it.


A few things if you do that:
1. eyelets.  Be careful what you use (the bent not welded ones are only good for about 100#).
2. Think about lifting from two different joist to spread the load.  This requires two chain falls, but that makes the lathe much easier to handle instead of balancing on a single pick point.  And chainfalls are cheaper then busted equipment.
3. I lifted mine with two 3/4" or 1" steel rod through the lifting holes.  Don't use pipe.  Think about how you are going to keep the chain from slipping off the bars when the load starts to shift (this thing is massively top heavy).
4. Do a static test first. Lift it 1/2" then walk away for about 30 minutes and see if anything changes.

What is the dimension of your joists and what is the length of them?  If they are manufactured trusses (i.e. 2x4) then I would definitely not do it.  I lifted off a 2x10" when putting together my gantry crane (which meant I was probably picking up about 600#).


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## OLEJOE (Mar 23, 2016)




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## OLEJOE (Mar 23, 2016)

It was actually pretty easy. Used a comealong on the headstock end fastened to the ceiling joist (2x10) and used my tractor with FEL on the other. Picked it straight up and slid the pallet out.


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## BGHansen (Mar 24, 2016)

Looks great!  Now all you have to do is run power, break it in, come up with a list of projects, start drooling at miscellaneous tooling, etc. etc. etc.

There's a thread in this forum on my set up experiences.  My biggest annoyance was the position of the QCTP locking lever - setting over top your work when it's tight.  I (surface) ground the plates on the piston style pressure plates to change the handle position.  I also pulled the cross slide micrometer dial and went to a locking screw.  I just didn't like the clutch system they have; always seemed to let the handle rotate a few 0.001's as I rotated the micrometer dial.

Bruce


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## Steve Shannon (Mar 24, 2016)

BGHansen said:


> Looks great!  Now all you have to do is run power, break it in, come up with a list of projects, start drooling at miscellaneous tooling, etc. etc. etc.
> 
> There's a thread in this forum on my set up experiences.  My biggest annoyance was the position of the QCTP locking lever - setting over top your work when it's tight.  I (surface) ground the plates on the piston style pressure plates to change the handle position...
> 
> Bruce


Couldn't you just rotate the nut on the bottom for the QCTP?


 Steve Shannon


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## BGHansen (Mar 24, 2016)

Steve Shannon said:


> Couldn't you just rotate the nut on the bottom for the QCTP?
> 
> 
> Steve Shannon


Hi Steve,

My QCTP doesn't have a nut accessible on the bottom (unfortunately).  That would have worked great it there was one.  I thought about grinding the bottom of the post also, but ended up grinding the two plates instead.  There's a youtube video by JayTee going over his G0709, he talks about having the same problem.  Still really happy with the lathe.

Bruce


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## tmarks11 (Mar 24, 2016)

BGHansen said:


> My biggest annoyance was the position of the QCTP locking lever - setting over top your work when it's tight.  I (surface) ground the plates on the piston style pressure plates to change the handle position...


Yeah, that sure was annoying. My solution was just to buy an Aloris.  Not a fan of the cheap piston style tool posts.


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## OLEJOE (Mar 24, 2016)

Well I got the power cord hooked up in the electrical box, got some of the goo cleaned off and cleaned the head gearbox out. Used a magnetic pickup tool and got some metal filings. The gearbox on the bottom is full of oil and the apron also. Still haven't leveled or bolted it down yet. Checked the RO on the 3 jaw chuck and it's.0005!


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## Timrock (Mar 25, 2016)

I got mine a couple weeks ago, I like it.
Getting it on to the lift gate and down was a scary experience. Use 12 gauge wire and some ring connectors for the connections and follow the schematics matching the plug connection to the one in the lathe electric box it may save you some problems.


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## Timrock (Mar 25, 2016)

When you level it, stack some parallels on each side of the v on the bed since one v is higher that the other so it will be true. Use a machinest level. The more true it is the better it will cut.


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## OLEJOE (Mar 25, 2016)

Thanks. I wondered how to do it.


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## Timrock (Mar 25, 2016)

I bought my oil off amazon and lever action  pumps with hoses that fit into the fill hole so you just pump the handle to get it in. I took the top cover off the spindle box, it was easier plus I could inspect it at the same time. Draining the lower gearbox is the messiest part. Have Fun!


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## OLEJOE (Mar 25, 2016)

Have fluids ordered. "Supposed" to be here Monday.


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## BGHansen (Mar 25, 2016)

tmarks11 said:


> Yeah, that sure was annoying. My solution was just to buy an Aloris.  Not a fan of the cheap piston style tool posts.


Agreed, another case of you get what you pay for.  Aloris upgrades are on my list of good intentions.

Bruce


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## OLEJOE (Mar 25, 2016)

Ok. I've got a few questions. The base is perfectly level. The bedways are level lengthwise and are off .015-.020 front to back. Kept shimming till I got it level. I got it wired up. So what else do I need to do b4 break in ?


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## Timrock (Mar 25, 2016)

I went through and checked the chuck cams and screws, bolts, anything that could be loose. Pull the side cover make sure belts and gears are OK, proper clearance on the gears. Oil levels, mine had no oil in the top. Make sure the half nut is disengaged and check all gear settings according to the manual. Put the carriage in the middle in case some things engaged so it doesn't crash. Take tools or anything else off the top over the chuck so they can go over the side and hit the chuck and fly.
Test the foot brake too.


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## Timrock (Mar 25, 2016)

Watch the loose clothing, the chuck may grab it!


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## tmarks11 (Mar 25, 2016)

Timrock said:


> ...Pull the side cover make sure belts and gears are OK, proper clearance on the gears.



On mine, the key from the pulley on the motor extruded itself while I was doing th break in.  Check to make sure it is tight.



Timrock said:


> When you level it, stack some parallels on each side of the v on the bed since one v is higher that the other so it will be true. Use a machinest level. The more true it is the better it will cut.


Yeah, I started out by leveling across the vee's using a pair of vee-blocks.  I felt like an idiot when I got done and only then realized they were at different heights.

A pair of 123 blocks is just the ticket; place them on the ways and put a level on top of that.


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## OLEJOE (Mar 25, 2016)

Well the break in went well. No weird noises or vibration. Very smooth. No oil leaks.


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## Timrock (Mar 26, 2016)

tmarks11 said:


> On mine, the key from the pulley on the motor extruded itself while I was doing th break in.  Check to make sure it is tight.
> 
> 
> Yeah, I started out by leveling across the vee's using a pair of vee-blocks.  I felt like an idiot when I got done and only then realized they were at different heights.
> ...


I had mine out of level too then remembered someone saying the vee's where off, it definitely threw it off. I used a starret 98 for now until I can get the 199.


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