# How to clean lathe



## Bobbycoke (Oct 12, 2017)

I am new to machining [dad had a lathe and I learnt on it 55=58 years ago] now at 70 have purchased a 1939 Southbend 9C lathe it is in great condition and came with a great deal of tooling. It was in a basement and we [my best friend and I ] spent a day disasembling it to carry it up the stairs!!!!!!How can a lathe that weighs 350 lbs have 4 components that must weigh 200 lbs each ????? Any how we broke it down to tailstock,headstock, motor with holder ,  crossfeed, and bed with transmission.......loaded it in my van and off to it's new home...Now the question before we put it back together [ my buddy will help as he documented the teardown with notes, pix, marked part baggies he is super smart] Now as I unload I want to clean it and the grease/grime off the internal pieces [replace any oil felts etc.] while appart, then reassemble and let the chips fly!!! So what do you use as a cleaner degreaser , pop always used Kerosene.........what is best as I also  would prefer non flammable or toxic........sprays etc carb cleaner? simple green ? I will relube as I reassemble, thanks for your knowledge..........Bobbycoke


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## Dave Paine (Oct 12, 2017)

Many solvents will work.  

When I cleaned my Southbend Heavy 10 I used one of the purple coloured degreasers, may have been Purple Power or Super-Clean foaming degreaser.  These work, just be aware they are good for steel, but will remove paint and not good for aluminium, so if any aluminium components, clean and rinse do not allow the part to soak.

Some parts the old gunk will be packed hard.  This was my QCGB before cleaning.   I attempted to clean without disassembling, but the gunk in the teeth refused to come out, even using toothbrush and the degreaser.




I dis-assembled so I could get each component cleaned.  A lot of work, but I think it was worthwhile.




I now have a Simple Green product which is purple coloured and claims to be safe for all metals.  It works for light degreasing, but it is not as powerful as some of the other purple products.

I also use mineral spirits for some degreasing the type stated to be odorless on the can.  Flammable, but low risk.


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## f350ca (Oct 12, 2017)

I use Super Clean as a general degreaser, let it soak for a bit then pressure wash. Does soften some paints though.

Greg


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## tq60 (Oct 12, 2017)

Lowes has a stuff called greased lightening that works great.

Spray it on and the grease simply melts.

Not cheap as it is 9 bucks a gallon but only 26 for 5.

No odor and safe for paint and skin.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk


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## Metal (Oct 12, 2017)

Hey , related question

I just got my new lathe, and the ways and some other surfaces still have "rust" on them after derusting, greasing and a lot of scrubbing, the rust colored stains are obviously very thin and are smooth enough to not effect anything, I just dont like em.
I can't pop something this big into my electrolytic cleaner, any ideas on how to remove it without damaging the ways?


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## Bob Korves (Oct 12, 2017)

Look at this post from yesterday:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/atlas-mf-mill-cleanup.63015/
particularly post #7, something new to me, and sounds like it would work well for you...


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## Technical Ted (Oct 12, 2017)

I've used different cleaners over the years for home use, but my favorite is still, like your father's, kerosene. Of course I'm not going to mention any of the cleaners we used to use at work that OSHA doesn't allow any more! Diesel works well too as I imagine fuel oil for a furnace would also. Not too flammable. I do suggest wearing gloves though. It can be rough on the hands. Leaves a little oily type residue so things won't rust up on you. Stinks a little more than some of the commercial cleaners... Best to use in a garage or well ventilated area. 

YMMV,
Ted


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## eeler1 (Oct 12, 2017)

wd40 is mostly kerosene, when done cleaning use something else as a lubricant, though.  Harsher chemicals work better  for cleaning, but then you may not have skin, eyes or lungs.


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## Nogoingback (Oct 13, 2017)

WD40 is also acidic and can cause corrosion, so wiping down with oil afterwords is important with unpainted surfaces.

I prefer old fashioned Stoddard Solvent.


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## ELHEAD (Oct 14, 2017)

Stoddard solvent, fancy name for paint thinner, mineral spirits etc. 
works great,  a little faster than kerosene, (coal oil as we used to call it), 
Mineral spirits , paint thinner is about twice the cost of kerosene which is my go to. 
For the life of me I cannot put water -based cleaners on things metal with bearings and grease.


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## whitmore (Oct 15, 2017)

Metal said:


> Hey , related question
> 
> I just got my new lathe, and the ways and some other surfaces still have "rust" on them after derusting, greasing and a lot of scrubbing, the rust colored stains are obviously very thin...



The stains might be anything, but if it's just an oxide layer, metal polish (the general
purpose kind), or a bit of rouge compound, will clean it up without removing any metal.   That's
the benefit of metal polish: like steel wool, it isn't strong enough to remove metal, but
can take off oxides, paint and suchlike.   Be sure to remove all the polish, and wipe down
with an oily rag afterward.


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