# Jacob keyless chuck



## Flyrod (Jul 14, 2017)

Hi All - I have a very old, NOS chuck, Jacob's 100CR (for center rest) keyless chuck

this is from the 70's or early 80s (when they were discontinued)

it has never been used and was left in the wide open position, where it is stuck

i am assuming the grease has turned to varnish?

what is the best thing to soak it in? - i tried mineral spirits, but it won't budge

not knowing exactly how the mechanism is or what is inside, i am hesitant

thanks!

PS: looks like this


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## Splat (Jul 14, 2017)

I love Kroil or PB Blaster.


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## Dave Paine (Jul 14, 2017)

Another vote for Kroil.  I have used Kroil to loosen many rusted fasteners and stuck items in hand plane restorations.

You have to get Kroil from the manufacturer, Kano Labs.


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## projectnut (Jul 14, 2017)

Another product that does a great job is PB Blaster:
http://blastercorp.com/PB-Blaster-Penetrant-remove-stuck-parts-spray

I've had great luck with it.  To me it has a nasty smell so I use it outside or in the garage whenever possible.  I used it in the basement a couple times and the smell stayed around for weeks.


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## Terrywerm (Jul 14, 2017)

Kerosene might do the trick. Toss it in for a good soak and forget about it for a couple of weeks, then pull it out and see if you've made any progress.

Kroil, as mentioned above, is very good also. Well worth the trouble to get hold of some.

One product that is often overlooked, and I just love, is K&W Knock'er Loose. It is available at NAPA stores as well as some others such as O'Reilley's. I once had a frozen kingpin on an old Ford pickup with the twin I beam suspension. This stuff actually freed it up, making the job much easier than pressing out the old one and replacing it!


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## Splat (Jul 14, 2017)

Dave Paine said:


> Another vote for Kroil.  I have used Kroil to loosen many rusted fasteners and stuck items in hand plane restorations.
> 
> You have to get Kroil from the manufacturer, Kano Labs.



You can get it from McMaster or Amazon.


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## Bob Korves (Jul 14, 2017)

Kroil is good stuff.  A 50:50 mixture of ATF and acetone is probably the most effective penetrant, and one of the cheapest.  Just mix some up, and keep it where the acetone will not evaporate.  Be careful with it, acetone is toxic.


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## darkzero (Jul 14, 2017)

I love Kroil as well but I wouldn't use it in this case for soaking a drill chuck. If the grease has expired, proper way is to disassemble the chuck to clean & relube. Soaking in something is just temporary fix.

Edit: misread, well I suppose if it's stuck, you'd have to get it free before being able to rebuild it. 



Splat said:


> You can get it from McMaster or Amazon.



Way cheaper to get it directly from Kano, anywhere else marks it up. They have a standing offer where you order a can of Kroil & can choose another one of their products to try for free. On my last order I choose Microil for the free product. It's instrument oil & it's great stuff too.


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## 4GSR (Jul 15, 2017)

That chuck is also referred to as a 'commutator' chuck.  It holds the end of the shaft dead true while you skim cut the commutator.  I think you that, bu for others that have never been around one.  One thing to keep in mind, the jaws may not go down to a small diameter of a shaft.  May only have a range of 3/4 down to 3/8 diameter.  Not positive on that.  
I would prefer to soak it in mineral spirits, once freed, lubricate with some light oil.  I like Will's free deal, forget about mine!


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## kd4gij (Jul 17, 2017)

this has a little info
http://www.clockmaker.it/files_forum/monografie/jacobs/mandrino_jacobs.pdf


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## kd4gij (Jul 17, 2017)




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