# Craftsman 12" x 48" - How to remove the spindle MT3 to MT2 Adapter?



## KySawdust (Dec 17, 2012)

I have tried several times to get the adapter out of my spindle to utilize what little bore I have available.  

I made a fixture that was basically a puller that tried to pull a sleeve through the spindle by using a threaded cylinder inside the spindle with a boss on the other side of the MT3-2 adapter (on the chuck side) and broke the bolt trying to pull that thing through the spindle.  

I've also taken a rod and tried to hammer it out (gently, but firmly) to no avail.  

Someone recommended that I use heat but I'm afraid of what I might do to the Timken bearings in the headstock.  

Short of pulling the spindle, what else can I do?

Thanks for any help you can offer.  

KySawdust
Brad K.


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## Tony Wells (Dec 17, 2012)

It would be the seals rather than the bearings that would prevent me from putting heat on it, plus you would have a hard time keeping the heat from getting to the sleeve as well. After marinating for a while in your favorite penetrating oil, get some dry ice and acetone and plug the back end and fill the inside with the slush. In about 2 minutes, knock it out from the outboard end. Put something or someone to catch it. Careful with the dry ice/acetone. It WILL frostbite you.


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## KySawdust (Dec 18, 2012)

So is this a common problem with these old Atlas/Craftsman lathes?  I thought about boring it out but chickened out.  

Any idea as to what sort of supply house / store sells dry ice?  I am in Lexington, KY.  

And when I get it you suggest crushing some with the acetone or will it melt on its own to make the icy slush?


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## rock_breaker (Dec 18, 2012)

Our local grocery store sells dry ice (parent company is Kroger) for rural customers to keep meats cool during return trips home.
Look in yellow pages for Dry Ice or Ice suppliers, dont know about welding vendors selling Carbon Di Oxide welding gas. Another source may be fire extinguisher servicing out lets. All of these may be lead. to a supply source.

Have a good day

Ray


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## Tony Wells (Dec 18, 2012)

In Lexington:

http://scottgross.com/DryIce.htm

The local Airgas distributor also sells it.

You will need a styrofoam cooler to transport it, and don't get until you are ready to use it. It sublimates quite readily at ambient temp. And yes, you should crush it up a little when you mix the acetone in. This bath will get it to around -78°C. And another safety note. Wear gloves, and if you transport the dry ice in an enclosed vehicle, roll the window down, the CO2 released will suffocate you.


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## rock_breaker (Dec 18, 2012)

Back to the dry ice, about a pound is all you will need not sure where you get Acetone. Like Tony said build a plug that you can tap (hammer) on. . Metal transfers heat rapidly so this is probably  a fast process.


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## Tony Wells (Dec 18, 2012)

Acetone is at Lowe's or Home Depot, most any real paint store. In a pinch, nail polish remover is high in acetone content, with a little oil, so that would be a second choice.

And very right, you want to be set up for this to run quickly. Perhaps even using two people. One on the mallet, and the other working the dry ice/acetone. Within 30 seconds, it will shrink. I wouldn't wait any more than 2 minutes.If you take a styrofoam cup and split it open so you can hold it flat against the big end, and have the plug (aluminum will be fine) fit pretty closely in the small end and shouldered to sit on the end of the sleeve. Cool it and whack it.


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## wa5cab (Dec 18, 2012)

Brad,

To answer your other question, no, this doesn't seem to be a common problem.  You are the first one to mention it either here or on the Yahoo group since I joined roughly a year ago.  And it has never happened to me.

Robert D.


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## November X-ray (Dec 18, 2012)

If you cannot easily find dry ice, you might want to try the dust off canned air used to blow your computer and electronics with. Simply invert the can so the liquid sprays out, a 15 to 20 second burst should cool it down quite a bit. Anything beyond that will probably transfer the heat (or cold) into the outer material and cause it to shrink. Of course you could use a heat gun or even a hair dryer first to warm up everything and then hit it with the canned air!

Good Luck!


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## KySawdust (Dec 19, 2012)

Tony Wells said:


> In Lexington:
> 
> http://scottgross.com/DryIce.htm
> 
> ...



Yep, that's a bit of valuable info!  )  I have the need to go to Airgas in the next few weeks anyway.  My brother has a soda fountain in his "man cave" and needs a CO2 refill.  

Thanks Tony!


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## KySawdust (Dec 19, 2012)

wa5cab said:


> Brad,
> 
> To answer your other question, no, this doesn't seem to be a common problem.  You are the first one to mention it either here or on the Yahoo group since I joined roughly a year ago.  And it has never happened to me.
> 
> Robert D.



It only "happened to me" because it's been that way since I got it.  Believe me, I've whacked on it a few times, built pullers, etc. but nothing works.  Even considered boring it out in a morse taper fashion to get it "thin" and then whack on it some more.  Hope the dry ice gets it done!


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## Newmetalmark (Dec 23, 2012)

I think you should get the spindle out of the headstock & bearings so you can heat it and then drive the adapter out with a piece of 3/4" rod. I've never heard of a spindle adapter getting that hammered or rusted in before. Are you sure that someone didn't weld/solder it in? Believe it or nuts, that I've seen
And hey, since you got it apart, new belt's?


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