# Anyone bought a Vevor Vise?



## Inferno (Dec 31, 2021)

I clicked a link from the site so they can get their pennies but I've been looking at this vise for a couple months. 









						VEVOR High Precision Milling Vice 6 Inch,Bench Clamp Vise Nodular Cast Iron Material,Flat Clamp Vise Mill Vise for Milling Drilling Machine and Precision Parts Finishing  | VEVOR US
					

Discover VEVOR High Precision Milling Vice 6 Inch,Bench Clamp Vise Nodular Cast Iron Material,Flat Clamp Vise Mill Vise for Milling Drilling Machine and Precision Parts Finishing, Durable Material and Hardened Clamping Jaw at lowest price, 2days delivery, 30days returns.




					www.vevor.com
				




I pulled the trigger tonight and it should be here in the next week. 
It weighs about 50 pounds. 

I looked at a review from a reputable machinist and he said it mostly checked out within 0.0015 which is well above the standards I have on my current vise. 
It appears to have a pretty solid build and has a few good things going for it, least of which is the price. At $140 to my door it's a steal, in my mind. 

The downside is my lathe/mill combo doesn't have a bed that will be friendly to a clamp down vise. I'm going to make a few modifications to the Y axis to accommodate it. The first thing I'm going to do is set it in place on center and square. I'll mark where I want my hold down clamps to go and then use the mill head to drill into the table in 4 spots. Locking my cross slide will, of course, put the holes exactly aligned with the Y-axis. 
I will also drill 2 more holes for quick squaring the vice when I take it off and put it back on. They will have eccentric spacers so I can square it up once and pretty much forget it after that. When I put the vise back on I just slide it up to the guides and clamp it down. It will sure beat how I square my current vise. Takes a good 5 minutes just to square it up. Yeah. not a lot of time but if there's a better way, right?

Anyhow, has anyone bought one of these vises? If so, what's your observations for good and bad?


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## C-Bag (Dec 31, 2021)

This is the type of vise I bought except a 4” and have had it for 5-6yrs now. I would think a 6” would only fit Bridgeport. I prefer this type of vise because the ability to lay it on its side to clamp pieces vertically. I’ve never checked it on the surface plate but it seems to produce as accurate work as I need. The one thing I did do was take it apart and polish and lube the angle lock mechanism as it was not working properly before. This stopped the jaw lift when tightened.


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## Winegrower (Dec 31, 2021)

I have the 6” with swivel base, looks exactly like the Vevor version.   I like the swivel base, unlike some, because I can quickly reorient to use the X axis power feed, or mill odd angles.   I can set it to within a quarter degree just from the dial markings.   No need to shim the vise wrt the table, it’s within a half thousandth where it matters.

My only actual complaint is the jaws are not designed to the Kurt “standard”.   Close, but no.

Edit:  It will be a cold day…before I intentionally drill holes in my mill table.


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## Inferno (Dec 31, 2021)

I totally ge that someone wouldn't drill holes in their machine. 
I have a cheap Smithy and it only has two T-slot channels so it's very limited the alternative would be to machine a few more T-slot and that's just not happening. 
I looked at the model with the swivel base also. It has the flange mount which, in many ways, I prefer. I looked at reviews on it and wasn't as impressed. The swivel is a nice thing to have but I haven't needed it yet. Someday I might and then I'll wish I had it.


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## Asm109 (Dec 31, 2021)

Make a couple plates that span across the t slots.  Put a tapped hole in plate where needed.
hold the plates down with 4 t nuts, studs, and nuts. No holes in machine tool, when you realize the 6 inch vise is too big for your machine.


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## C-Bag (Dec 31, 2021)

Mine is on a RF30 mill/drill and Z height is always at a premium. There was a poll here and the vast majority didn’t need their swivel base so that’s what drove me to this style, besides the great price  I also took the swivel off my vise on the Atlas shaper which is also a Z challenged machine and have not missed it once. I’m sure if it was not sitting in a drawer I’d need it.


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## woodchucker (Dec 31, 2021)

First, why would you have to drill holes in your table???? you just build clamps for the slots on the side.
What is the piece I have circled for.


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## C-Bag (Dec 31, 2021)

woodchucker said:


> First, why would you have to drill holes in your table???? you just build clamps for the slots on the side.
> What is the piece I have circled for.
> View attachment 390343


Yeah this was such non sequitur it got ignored. there is no need to drill holes. I actually use a couple of short step blocks to mount mine. And there is no need for four of them. Two mounted and tightened properly has never budged.

I didn’t get those circled pieces so no clue.


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## Inferno (Dec 31, 2021)

I don't know what that circled piece is for. 

I want the vise clamped on both sides. The T-slots aren't spanned enough, I don't think, to allow each side to be clamped down. 

I know the drilling is usually verboten but this is going to be a part of the machine. I plan to make a couple more modifications down the road that might require drilling or machining. So far all the things I've done were able to be done with current holes and such, except one. For my X-axis DRO I needed to drill and tap a couple holes in the frame.


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## woodchucker (Dec 31, 2021)

Inferno said:


> I don't know what that circled piece is for.
> 
> I want the vise clamped on both sides. The T-slots aren't spanned enough, I don't think, to allow each side to be clamped down.
> 
> I know the drilling is usually verboten but this is going to be a part of the machine. I plan to make a couple more modifications down the road that might require drilling or machining. So far all the things I've done were able to be done with current holes and such, except one. For my X-axis DRO I needed to drill and tap a couple holes in the frame.


what kind of mill?
I think most every mill will handle 4 clamps. Even my small Clausing 8520..
You are going to a 6" so you must have a bigger mill than mine.


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## WobblyHand (Dec 31, 2021)

Make something like this to hold down the vise.  I made these last January.  Don't use socket head screws, they fill full of swarf, use a hex head instead.  Make sure the screws aren't too long, or it could damage your table.  For that matter, get or make tee nuts that a bolt cannot thread through.


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## Inferno (Dec 31, 2021)

woodchucker said:


> what kind of mill?
> I think most every mill will handle 4 clamps. Even my small Clausing 8520..
> You are going to a 6" so you must have a bigger mill than mine.


I have a small combo lathe/mill. 
I'm only going to a 6" vise because the cheap 4" vise I have has come up short a few times. I'm tired of bolting a mount piece to be able to machine something that's bigger than 4 inches. 
Part of the reason my cnc build has taken so long is because I need to make some bigger pieces here and there. 
I can, and have, worked around a lot of those limitations but this should make it easier.


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## woodchucker (Dec 31, 2021)

@WobblyHand  that's the solution.. easy peasy.
As far as T nuts, you can either partially tap using a gun tap and not go all the way
Or I just take a punch and peen the last thread so it can't go any further. I am assured of the number of threads that way.


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## Inferno (Dec 31, 2021)

WobblyHand said:


> Make something like this to hold down the vise.  I made these last January.  Don't use socket head screws, they fill full of swarf, use a hex head instead.  Make sure the screws aren't too long, or it could damage your table.  For that matter, get or make tee nuts that a bolt cannot thread through.
> View attachment 390357


That's pretty much what I was working towards. 
I've already had to make a couple T-bolts because the Smithy comes with really soft ones. 
The big difference between what I want to do and what you've done is I want to have dedicated mount points. Hence the drilled holes.


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## WobblyHand (Dec 31, 2021)

woodchucker said:


> @WobblyHand  that's the solution.. easy peasy.
> As far as T nuts, you can either partially tap using a gun tap and not go all the way
> Or I just take a punch and peen the last thread so it can't go any further. I am assured of the number of threads that way.


Made the hold downs out of A36 1x1 stock.  Took me longer to figure out what to do and draw it, then to actually make them. One can get tee-nuts already peened, or punch them, just like you said.


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## WobblyHand (Dec 31, 2021)

Inferno said:


> That's pretty much what I was working towards.
> I've already had to make a couple T-bolts because the Smithy comes with really soft ones.
> The big difference between what I want to do and what you've done is I want to have dedicated mount points. Hence the drilled holes.


Why _dedicated_ mount points?  They are incredibly inflexible and effectively permanent.  If you miss drill, you have pooched your table.  If you screwed up your calculations, you have pooched the table.  If you need a different setup at an 1/8" offset, you have pooched the table. Effectively impossible to reverse.  Please don't drill the table, it's almost never necessary.  Just my humble opinion.  

Setting up and tramming a vise takes me a couple of minutes down to tenths.  Get it roughly in place.  Tighten one bolt firmly, the rest not as firm.  Tap to rotate in one direction (or the other, if you have gone too far,) checking tram.  Tighten rest of bolts down and check tram again.  Couple of more taps and done.


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## Inferno (Dec 31, 2021)

*Mountains out of molehills*

Measure twice, buy once. 
I think some might be overestimating the size of my table. It turns out that the width of the vise will be exactly the width of my table. 

This will be interesting. 

Modifications will need to be made.


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## WobblyHand (Dec 31, 2021)

Can your machining technique support rotating the vise 90 degrees?  So the vise handle is over the edge of the table, rather than over the table itself?  You can drill if you want, but usually there's a way to avoid it.


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## Inferno (Dec 31, 2021)

WobblyHand said:


> Can your machining technique support rotating the vise 90 degrees?  So the vise handle is over the edge of the table, rather than over the table itself?  You can drill if you want, but usually there's a way to avoid it.


I could do that but it would be with great sacrifice. Every time I put the vise on I would have to remove the lathe tail stock and, frankly, it's a PIA to get back on.


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## Inferno (Dec 31, 2021)

*Drilling won't be necessary*

As it turns out, not only will I not have to drill but there wouldn't be an advantage anyhow. 
The vise matches the dimensions of the bed almost exactly. 

Here's what I have to work with. 





I plan on using the two T-slots on the side to lock the vise down on the sides. 
The left one just barely clears the pickup for my DRO so it should be OK and not interfere. 

What you can't see in the photo is the T-slots extend all the way out the back so I can use those T-slots for the back. 
That will give 3 point lockdown with the majority of the work being done inside the triangle. 
It also makes it easier to make the clamps for the vise as they will all be the same. The vise has mounting points on the sides and the back 

Here's the layout of the table to help see where it would sit on the bed. 




The only real downsides to a vise this big on a "mill" this size is the vise handle is directly over the Y-axis feed and the thing weighs 50 pounds so it won't be fun to put it on and take it off.


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## matthewsx (Dec 31, 2021)

If you’re trying to do a CNC conversion have you considered fixture plates. We have a forum sponsor that makes them.









						Dayton CNC Products
					

www.daytoncncproducts.com This Commercial sub-forum is operated by Jake2465 owner of Dayton CNC Products. Jake is offering a line of miniature low-profile fixtures and clamps for small businesses and hobbyists alike. Check out his forum and ask questions!




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## Inferno (Jan 4, 2022)

Vise arrived.

I haven't looked at it much. I'm a bit under the weather. 
The vise was shipped in the box that you'd see on the shelf. There was a styrofoam  protection around it so I'm sure it's all OK. 
I ended up leaving the package on my front porch overnight and a cat came by and marked it. Otherwise I'd photo the packaging. 

I didn't get the piece showed in this picture 






I did get the two little square pieces. They are for alignment locking. 




They won't do me much good because the positioning grooves on the vise aren't going to align on my table and the locks are bigger than my grooves anyhow. If they lined up then I'd machine down the alignment blocks to fit my table. 

Oh well. 

I'll come up with something to use as an easy alignment.


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## fitterman1 (Apr 15, 2022)

What thread does the spindle have?
The current ads for vevor on fleabay show a vee thread on the vise, but there are two little picture inserts depicting their thread (trapezoidal) and the competitions (vee).
False advertising? or can someone verify.


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## wachuko (Apr 15, 2022)

I know you already bought it, and it is an attractive price... I know, I did the same... three times.

But after buying one of those Kurt vises (the one they have with a scratch & dent at a discount), I would not spend on another Vevor or similar vise... The difference in build quality is huge....

First one was a Vevor... great for my first vise and I abused the heck out of it... It is the one color matched to the milling machine... in hammered green




The second one was a cheaper alternative (68.00)... what a piece of carp...  It is the blue one, next to the old one in the photo above ^

And then, just recently, I got another Vevor.  Much better as it looks like they have made some improvements.  Not bad for 96.00 and I am positive that it will serve me well... but next time, I will get a 4" Kurt vise for the G0704... there is just no comparison...


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## fitterman1 (Apr 15, 2022)

So, what threads do the spindles on the vevors have?
I'm not trusting an ad that shows a vee thread but tells the buyer it has a trapezoidal.
Would love to get a Kurt, but prices are off the planet here.


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## woodchucker (Apr 15, 2022)

fitterman1 said:


> So, what threads do the spindles on the vevors have?
> I'm not trusting an ad that shows a vee thread but tells the buyer it has a trapezoidal.
> Would love to get a Kurt, but prices are off the planet here.


I don't know if you know this... I didn't..

Kurt uses V groove. when I read that I asked why...why not use an ACME. I was told the V can handle more pressure than the acme.
I find that interesting, since the acme looks much more stout.

Does it matter what screw shape?


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## fitterman1 (Apr 15, 2022)

Well I think so, I'm old school, i was  taught either a buttress, acme, trapezoidal or square thread for high load applications. A normal vee thread would slide under extreme load and deform eventually failing after repeated loading.
What says everyone else?


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## fitterman1 (Apr 17, 2022)

I'll give you an example of what the vee profile does under extreme load.
I used to work as a wind turbine technician a few years ago. One morning i got a call to visit a turbine which had stopped because of a fault. Two of us went there and opened the door to find the place dripping with oil, gearbox oil.
I climbed up to find a gearbox cracked in half on the back end. What a shock.
Long story short, what had happened was the brake was called to operate by the control plc for some reason. These gearboxes weigh 20 tonnes. The geartooth profile  is machined similar to a vee thread on the intermediate and high-speed shafts in the late stages of the gearbox. What happened when the brake came on was it tried to brake a shaft doing 1500 rpm, trying to stop 45 tonnes of hub and blades from spinning. The forces involved at that moment were pushing the shafts apart because of the tooth profiles. The cast iron housing had no choice but to groan and say thats enough and let go, slowly dumping 470 liters of oil through a 2-3mm crack. It took near 6 months to clean that turbine, before we could change the gearbox.


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