# My 1340GT



## Aukai (Mar 18, 2021)

Still waiting for my electrician to have time for the vfd assembly, and installation. I have the RPC, so he wired it for that, for now until the vfd is done. Got the power on, he checked circuits, and had a rotation meter, and it all checked out. It is running, yeah, but I'm like a 12 year old learning to drive a stick shift. This ain't a 1228, I have to work on memory, coordination, and making sure things are in the detents, also what knob or lever is not in it's detent. Grinding no bueno....


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## Braeden P (Mar 18, 2021)

Grind it til ya find it....


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## Nogoingback (Mar 18, 2021)

Are you saying that using your new 1340 is a problem?  I wish I had problems like yours...


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## Janderso (Mar 18, 2021)

Aukai said:


> Still waiting for my electrician to have time for the vfd assembly, and installation


Waiting on something like this must be very challenging


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## 7milesup (Mar 18, 2021)

Aukai said:


> Still waiting for my electrician to have time for the vfd assembly, and installation. I have the RPC, so he wired it for that, for now until the vfd is done. Got the power on, he checked circuits, and had a rotation meter, and it all checked out. It is running, yeah, but I'm like a 12 year old learning to drive a stick shift. This ain't a 1228, I have to work on memory, coordination, and making sure things are in the detents, also what knob or lever is not in it's detent. Grinding no bueno....


It is odd isn't it.  I don't remember what lathe you had before the 1340GT but it is a different "muscle memory" exercise initially isn't it?  I went from a PM1022 to my new Eisen 1440E.  When I got it wired up, I stood back and rather sheepishly thought, "where is the start button?".  LOL.
I had not read the manual, I mean, why do that right?!  Of course, the lever on the apron does make perfect sense after while.
Also, at one point I could not get it to run.  Nada.  Nothing.  No humming.  Zippo.  I stood back to assess the situation and think about why my new lathe has all of a sudden decided that it will not run.  No white light illuminated on the control panel, yet the DRO was lit.  Hmmmmm.  Ahhhh, stupid chuck guard was up.  DOH!

EDIT:  I should say that I actually like having this chuck guard there.  My old PM1022 was such a crappy design that I took it off.  With this lathe having significantly more power, the totally clear chuck guard and the ability to lift it ever so slightly to stop the machine is a welcome addition.


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2021)

Neil,,,,Exactly, he told me "run it" UUUUMMMM, let me look at the manual I printed to be sure.....
The PM 1228 definitely had less to remember, and I still have to figure out the Norton gear box, but that is just getting used to it. The spindle runout was almost imperceptible with this DI, I'll have to set up my other one to actually see movement I guess, but it must be pretty good. The needle maybe moved a whisker off of 0 on the face, and nose register.


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## Pcmaker (Mar 18, 2021)

Took me awhile to get used to my PM835S also. I had a PM25MV before that. Went from a benchtop to a knee mill with power feeds and power drawbar.


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2021)

So far the only thing that takes effort is the gap between H & L to get neutral. It cuts like a dream, and I actually hit a number with a 0 turning  . My center height is 3.4465, my height tool I whittled out today is 3.448, and I'm going to leave it there to actually see how it does. One unsettling event was the bleed down thingy on the start capacitor popped, and made an electrical smell. It all still runs, but my thinking is I have to stay out of the box, and don't mess with it. Mikey, Dave, Will, and everyone, pretty much everything I needed today was on hand in a drawer. Dial indicators, dial calipers, micrometers, mic holders, parallels, and the knowledge that has been passed on made my day today. Thank you.


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## Aukai (May 3, 2021)

I made my first bat project on the 1340. A small snafu to start with, I have run it, and made a small bushing for a friend. Zip, zip, and done. I noticed that the lathe turned off and came to a quick stop, what would I need a breaking resistor for on the vfd(RPC now)? I noticed that there was black rubber under the belt cover, and opened it up, well the belt is proud in the pully, and was rubbing on the cover. I had to cut a portion of the cover to clear, and now I know I'll need a breaking resistor for the vfd The cross slide dial has to be tightened, it starts dropping if at 3 or 11 with the handle up, backlash adjustment. I'm glad this is my 2nd lathe, I'm still getting used to the controls, The Norton gear box is a learning experience, and I will figure it out with more seat time. One of todays exercises was getting all of my tooling switched over to BXA holders. I FUBARED my tool height gauge, but I am extremely impressed with my live center, tool, finger nail interface.  The machine repeats direct dial readings, no muss no fuss, it is a very good machine. I am the resident premier/senior hack, so adjust your perceptions of this review...
I like it


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## DavidR8 (May 3, 2021)

I’ve been wondering how you are doing.


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## Aukai (May 3, 2021)

I did 25 days of 12hr shifts, with 1 Sat. day off 3 weeks ago, so it was good to get back to my new obsession...


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## mikey (May 3, 2021)

Glad your new lathe is working out well for you, Mike. I suggest you get that cross slide backlash dialed out if you can. Backlash in the compound and cross slide will beat the hell out of your machine, even if you don't notice chatter. Make sure your gibs are adjusted really well, too. If you do this and keep it lubed and free of chips, that lathe will be running well after you are gone. 

You've come a very long way, my friend!


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## Aukai (May 3, 2021)

Thank you, still a lot more to figure out/learn


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## Ischgl99 (May 3, 2021)

VFDs have built in capacity for some limited braking, so depending on what you are machining, you might not need a braking resistor.  The braking resistor is dissipating rotational energy, so heavy, large diameter objects will need braking before long slender objects of the same weight.  I only using braking while threading, the rest of the time I use coast to stop, so the internal braking of the VFD is all I need at this time.


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## Aukai (May 3, 2021)

2nd bat went smoothly, all the tools are set up, and I'm getting my order of processes back in my memory. Getting the pin to drop in the index hole for the Norton is still clumsy. I bought new 10, and 14 inch drill bits of the diameters I needed, and it helped. My total time is down to 2.5, from 3hrs now, but the bats are still making a big mess


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## Titanium Knurler (May 3, 2021)

Aukai said:


> ...I noticed that there was black rubber under the belt cover, and opened it up, well the belt is proud in the pully, and was rubbing on the cover...
> 
> Mike, I know you have a lot on your plate right now setting-up your new baby but I have noticed that others with PM machines have had problems with the belt that comes with the lathe and I know that I noticed black material coming from the belt from the very beginning on my PM 1236-T. So it might not be the cover or the belt standing proud; it may just be a crummy stock belt? The last time I lifted the cover I noticed a large crack in the belt so I replaced it with a Gates BX24 TriPower belt.  I am sure others my have suggestion for a replacement that is better but the Gates BX24 was inexpensive, has worked well and I no longer see the black material I saw with the stock belt.
> 
> Have fun!


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## Aukai (May 3, 2021)

Thank you, this is a Gates belt that I pre bought, and the back of it was rubbing in the cover. My 1228 had a junk belt on arrival too.


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## Titanium Knurler (May 3, 2021)

Aukai said:


> Thank you, this is a Gates belt that I pre bought, and the back of it was rubbing in the cover. My 1228 had a junk belt on arrival too.



You are way ahead of me Mike!


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## tjb (May 3, 2021)

Don't know how I missed this thread, Mike.  Glad to learn you're up and running.  Is the Compac in your post #6 the one you had an issue with?  Did it all get resolved?

Regards,
Terry


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## Aukai (May 3, 2021)

He sent me a new one, so it's all good


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## Ischgl99 (May 3, 2021)

Have you tried a free machining grade of aluminum to cut down on the rats nest?  I have only used 6061 so far, but have a project that calls out a 2000 series aluminum and I heard it machines so much nicer that 6061, but at about 2-3x the cost.


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## mikey (May 3, 2021)

Ischgl99 said:


> Have you tried a free machining grade of aluminum to cut down on the rats nest?  I have only used 6061 so far, but have a project that calls out a 2000 series aluminum and I heard it machines so much nicer that 6061, but at about 2-3x the cost.



2024 does machine really nicely but it will not automatically chip off instead of string unless your cutting conditions are right. If you have enough power and rigidity to take enough depth of cut or *feed at a good enough rate* then all aluminum alloys will chip instead of string when you're roughing. For the little inserts most hobby guys use, even if you can get the feed rate up high enough to break the chip, the finish suffers due to the smaller nose radii on those little inserts. Everything is a trade off and the key limiting factor is your lathe - how much power, speed and rigidity do you have? If your lathe is on the smaller side, say 12" and under, then you're going to be running at max capacity to have good chip control. 

With that said, 2024 does chip easier at a lower feed rate than 6061 but at greater expense. If I recall correctly, 2024 oxidizes easier than 6061 so there is that, too.


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## Aukai (May 3, 2021)

I have not tried anything like that, the material cost of one bat is close to 30 dollars now. Plus the 2.5hrs, and 1 sells for a C note there's not much room to up the price.


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## Aukai (May 3, 2021)

The big strings are from the drilling process, on my roughing passes my DOC is .040-.050, and the curls break off in 1-2" springs, which go pretty far. I found a new deflector for that purpose now, a paint stir stick keeps them in the immediate vicinity


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## Aukai (May 4, 2021)

I made it into this century, I haven't even figured out whether to use radius vs diameter, and I have been encouraged to go CNC.I don't think so, I have enough trouble with analog....


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## tjb (May 4, 2021)

Aukai said:


> I made it into this century, I haven't even figured out whether to use radius vs diameter, and I have been encouraged to go CNC.I don't think so, I have enough trouble with analog....


Ditto.


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## Ischgl99 (May 4, 2021)

mikey said:


> 2024 does machine really nicely but it will not automatically chip off instead of string unless your cutting conditions are right. If you have enough power and rigidity to take enough depth of cut or *feed at a good enough rate* then all aluminum alloys will chip instead of string when you're roughing. For the little inserts most hobby guys use, even if you can get the feed rate up high enough to break the chip, the finish suffers due to the smaller nose radii on those little inserts. Everything is a trade off and the key limiting factor is your lathe - how much power, speed and rigidity do you have? If your lathe is on the smaller side, say 12" and under, then you're going to be running at max capacity to have good chip control.
> 
> With that said, 2024 does chip easier at a lower feed rate than 6061 but at greater expense. If I recall correctly, 2024 oxidizes easier than 6061 so there is that, too.


I did read that 2024 is not that good for corrosion resistance and is best for parts that would be coated or anodized.  The drawings for my project come from Germany and it specs an aluminum that is most similar to 2007, but that doesn’t look like it is available anywhere.  The other one that looks similar to the specs is 2011, and from what I have found machines very nicely.  But, not having machined either yet, I will defer to your knowledge 

I have a 12x36 and have been able to get 6061 to chip, but as you say, it takes a pretty hefty cut to do that.


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## Ischgl99 (May 4, 2021)

Aukai said:


> The big strings are from the drilling process, on my roughing passes my DOC is .040-.050, and the curls break off in 1-2" springs, which go pretty far. I found a new deflector for that purpose now, a paint stir stick keeps them in the immediate vicinity


After I wrote my comment, I realized that was probably the case.  Cost of materials is a big issue and it hurts putting some of them in the shopping cart lol.


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