# Silver soldering band saw blades



## Shotgun (Apr 2, 2021)

I spent some money on silver solder and flux, and after a few attempts I can stick the ends of a broken bandsaw blade back together.

But, is it worth the effort.

So far, after mending, the blade just snaps in another place.  It's like the blade is fatigued from flexing, and by the time is snaps in one spot, it is ready to snap in a dozen more.  I've had trouble finding a good bi-metal blade, and have been using the high carbon ones from Olson.

Is this to be expected, and the silver solder should be saved for other project?  Is it just the blade, and silver solder will work on better quality blades?


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## nnam (Apr 2, 2021)

I had some good experience repairing broken blades before, when the teeth are good, just broken.  It last a long time before broken again, but long times means home uses, and I am guessing 50 cuts, not years of cuts.

I would do it if I have a repeatable set up.  Is it worth it?  The silver and gas are very little, so I don't see why not.

For breaking at another place, that means you did a good job.  But it may means what you said, or just a one off situation.   Make sure your cut set up is not putting too much down pressure and the teeth count per inch is correct for the thickness.


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## pacifica (Apr 2, 2021)

I don't have blades break on me often  and I resharpen my blades in place with a dremel . What's best is to buy a 100' coil and solder blades as needed. Ebay has various band saw coils for $30-150, about 100'.


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## rwm (Apr 2, 2021)

You can also buy Lennox Die Master by the coil. I run those and I have actually never had a blade break! I run them at the prescribed tension as indicated by the saw. I have lost many teeth and that is usually what forces me to swap out a blade.
When you guys solder your blades do you use a straight ground edge or at an angle to increase surface area? Is welding superior? I was considering buying/making a purpose built blade welder.
Robert

Hey am I seeing this right??? I can buy 1200 ft of Lennox Die Master for $430. My saw uses 11.5 ft blades. That works out to about $4.30 per blade. Could it be that cheap?
Robert


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## cathead (Apr 2, 2021)

I tried silver solder but have had better luck welding saw blades back together with an acetylene torch and
mild steel rod using a butt weld.  You have to anneal the weld after welding it back together or it will fail.


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## rwm (Apr 2, 2021)

Never mind. Fastenal has it priced by the "case of 1200". That's real clear . They actually mean 1200 inches or 100'. Soooo, not that cheap really. Actually is cheaper to buy pre-welded from Bandsaw blades direct.
Robert


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## Dabbler (Jun 11, 2021)

I don't silver solder my blades often, as it is cheaper here to just buy the blade premade.  My experience is that if a blade is broken once, it probably fragile enough to break again soon.  

For making new blades, SS has worked fine for me.


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## Mitch Alsup (Jun 11, 2021)

I notice on machinist YouTube channels that they will use the term Silver Solder when they really mean Silver Braze.

Silver solder melts at 590-670ºF (5% silver). Silver solder melts with a soldering iron and used Zinc-Chloride as flux
Silver braze melts at 1145º (56% silver). Silver braze needs a hotter flame than propane-air torch to reach the liquidus condition.

Band saw blades deserve Silver Braze, and the joint is considerably stronger if the ends are beveled to 45º or more to a longer joint.


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## Dabbler (Jun 11, 2021)

I use Silver (whatever) that melts at 720ºF  with the correct flux for that temperature.  I find the higher temp melting stuff is hard on the blade. I was taught to make the join at a 30 degree angle or double the thickness of the blade.  The joints always held for me.


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## MrWhoopee (Jun 15, 2021)

Shotgun said:


> So far, after mending, the blade just snaps in another place.  It's like the blade is fatigued from flexing, and by the time is snaps in one spot, it is ready to snap in a dozen more.


Yes, the blade is fatigued from flexing around the wheels. Close examination might disclose cracks in the gullets. If it breaks at the weld, re-weld it. If it breaks elsewhere, it's probably done.


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## Shotgun (Jun 15, 2021)

MrWhoopee said:


> Yes, the blade is fatigued from flexing around the wheels. Close examination might disclose cracks in the gullets. If it breaks at the weld, re-weld it. If it breaks elsewhere, it's probably done.


Yes.  It's done.  And not just from flexing around the wheel.  I think the twist that those adjustable arms force on the blade to line it up do more damage than the wheels.  I could be wrong, but I've taken to keeping them as close to the workpiece as possible instead of leaving them at the maximum gap, and my blades are lasting much longer.

Unfortunately, when you're trying to cut off a 6" section of 6"x6"x3/4" angle, there's only so much you can do.    I think this qualifies as abuse of a 4"x6" bandsaw.


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## G-ManBart (Jun 15, 2021)

Shotgun said:


> Yes.  It's done.  And not just from flexing around the wheel.  I think the twist that those adjustable arms force on the blade to line it up do more damage than the wheels.  I could be wrong, but I've taken to keeping them as close to the workpiece as possible instead of leaving them at the maximum gap, and my blades are lasting much longer.
> 
> Unfortunately, when you're trying to cut off a 6" section of 6"x6"x3/4" angle, there's only so much you can do.    I think this qualifies as abuse of a 4"x6" bandsaw.



I don't think you're wrong at all.  The more support you give the blade the long it's going to last and that twist, while necessary can't be good for the blade.

I've had fantastic service from https://www.detroitbandsaw.com.  I called them up asking about blades for tool steel and they were really helpful.

I'm lucky that they're local, but it looks like they have free shipping on orders over $150.


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## Janderso (Jun 15, 2021)

MrWhoopee said:


> Yes, the blade is fatigued from flexing around the wheels.


Am i supposed to release tension after use on my vertical and horizontal blades?
The reason I change blades (not that often) is due to broken teeth. Once one goes they just continue to degrade right on up the blade.


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## G-ManBart (Jun 15, 2021)

Janderso said:


> Am i supposed to release tension after use on my vertical and horizontal blades?
> The reason I change blades (not that often) is due to broken teeth. Once one goes they just continue to degrade right on up the blade.



That's been the topic of many arguments over the years!  Some folks, who do a lot of cutting, have said they kept track of blades and released the tension when not in use on some, and not on others, and saw a longer life from those that weren't stored under tension, but it wasn't a huge difference.

I think it makes sense to back off the tension when not in use, but if you forget I wouldn't worry about it.


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## MrWhoopee (Jun 15, 2021)

Shotgun said:


> I could be wrong, but I've taken to keeping them as close to the workpiece as possible instead of leaving them at the maximum gap, and my blades are lasting much longer.
> 
> Unfortunately, when you're trying to cut off a 6" section of 6"x6"x3/4" angle, there's only so much you can do.    I think this qualifies as abuse of a 4"x6" bandsaw.


It's good practice to keep the guides as close to the work as possible, it helps to keep the cut square.

Cutting 1x8 O-6 flat bar is the abuse that resulted in the demise of the original motor on mine.



Janderso said:


> Am i supposed to release tension after use on my vertical and horizontal blades?
> Once one goes they just continue to degrade right on up the blade.


I've never heard of releasing the tension and I don't think it's necessary. The fatigue is caused by repeated flexing, which causes the metal to work-harden. Holding it in tension won't hurt.


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## MrWhoopee (Jun 15, 2021)

Janderso said:


> The reason I change blades (not that often) is due to broken teeth. Once one goes they just continue to degrade right on up the blade.



Take your dremel or die-grinder and grind a ramp from the teeth following the missing tooth. This will prevent those teeth from being broken out and prolong the blade life. Also, do not put the blade back in the kerf where it lost a tooth, the broken tooth may be buried in it.


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## hman (Jun 15, 2021)

Wish there were a way to double-like!  Thanks, @MrWhoopee !


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## Janderso (Jun 16, 2021)

hman said:


> Wish there were a way to double-like!  Thanks, @MrWhoopee !


Like - Like
Thanks Craig.
Great idea


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## nnam (Jun 16, 2021)

MrWhoopee said:


> It's good practice to keep the guides as close to the work as possible, it helps to keep the cut square.
> 
> Cutting 1x8 O-6 flat bar is the abuse that resulted in the demise of the original motor on mine.
> 
> ...


I release tension of my blades in between large time off such as hours or days.  I don't think the bearings like tension for long, and the blade probably also suffers and stress causes micro cracks, which leads to larger cracks


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