# quick rivit question??



## GK1918 (Jan 12, 2014)

I just bought a new QC name plate from that Randy fella.  Ok me and the boy (and the boy is a toolaholic) back out 4 little drive rivits, that wont budge.
Oh I can get them out, but I dont want to ruin the name plate. I want to put this one on my other SBend.  Any one have a quick way, perhaps a mill
sliting saw on a dremal or something???  Never fooled with drive rivits, I think they are rt.hand.  Drill them, grind them????

sam


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## chuckorlando (Jan 12, 2014)

Can you not drill them out or knock out the center pin with a punch?


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## GK1918 (Jan 12, 2014)

chuckorlando said:


> Can you not drill them out or knock out the center pin with a punch?




I thought of that, but I dont want the stubs floating around the gears  thanks..


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## Thoro (Jan 12, 2014)

I would try grinding a slot in the heads and backing them out with a screw driver first.  Use penetrating oil.  They are right hand threaded.  If that doesn't work, maybe try a little heat, if you're not concerned about the paint finish, but be gentle with the heat.  

And if that doesn't work, try drilling them out and see if they will back out after that....
And if that does't work, cut the heads off carefully with a dremel, salvage the plate, then work on driving or drilling out the remainder of the "pin"

That would be my approach, starting with simple, and moving on to the more drastic measure.

Just take your time and be patient.  It'll pay off


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## cuseguy (Jan 12, 2014)

Yeah, slotting them with a Dremel and backing them out with a flathead is the best method. It's worked for me 4-5 times. 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


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## Kroll (Jan 12, 2014)

I use the dremal tool w/cutoff wheel by just cutting a slot for a screw driver.The screw driver has to fit the slot,like others said take your time press down pretty hard----kroll


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## cuseguy (Jan 12, 2014)

I recently had one that broke off on me after I slotted it. So I went from the back with a punch.  

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


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## GK1918 (Jan 12, 2014)

Thro, this plate will come off today come hell or high water.  I just need enough bite for a vise grip we'll see , though I'd ask first the fine people
here with good eyes.  I only want to save the old plate.   I think this is just about scale, those are small rivits....

sam


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## chuckorlando (Jan 12, 2014)

Yea if they are threaded type a slot is the way to go. Take and tap the top of the driver as you turn it if they are to tight. If that dont work use a grinder or cut off to skim the top then a flat head or what have you to fold up the thin piece left behind. I would not try to skim the whole top off in fear of hitting the plate

You could also use a drill to cut just the top off as well. Just big enough and deep enough to weaken the top and then pop it off with a flat


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## GK1918 (Jan 12, 2014)

Thanks Chuck its lookin like an air whizzer with the smallest cut off i can find OR a slit mill saw and I got those down to .020 or smaller 
I'll gertter done.  I'm just ramblin a bitt till the shop warms up lol...
thanks Chuck  Hows weather down there!
sam


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## Thoro (Jan 12, 2014)

GK1918 said:


> Thanks Chuck its lookin like an air whizzer with the smallest cut off i can find OR a slit mill saw and I got those down to .020 or smaller
> I'll gertter done.  I'm just ramblin a bitt till the shop warms up lol...
> thanks Chuck  Hows weather down there!
> sam



If you're a ninja, you can try a hack saw too, to slit it.


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## Bill Gruby (Jan 12, 2014)

What  you are dealing with are "Drive Rivits. They have a right hand twist . Slot the head and heat them with a soldering iron then twist them out. The usually come out easily.

 "Billy G"


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## chuckorlando (Jan 12, 2014)

Ah weather is nice. My computer and tv and coffee is all in the shop. I been out here since bout 6am and it's a good 65. Be about 75 all told. I can do 100deg with 100% humidity all day. But it gets under 50 I'm a sissy. ahahahaha


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## GK1918 (Jan 12, 2014)

thanks Bill and everyone, its now time to go to the ship, the ship should be warmed up by now,  when I get back this plate will be off. amen with no
damage  I want to paint under the plate today before i get the new one.  anybody interested the new repop is 35 bucks with shipping $41 dollar
US.    one week delivery...... This fella randy ebay made another run of these 9 & 10 A's.............................we will see

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chuckorlando said:


> Ah weather is nice. My computer and tv and coffee is all in the shop. I been out here since bout 6am and it's a good 65. Be about 75 all told. I can do 100deg with 100% humidity all day. But it gets under 50 I'm a sissy. ahahahaha



Ya gonna get the big "S" award come up here ; and I know Orlando well!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Cactus Farmer (Jan 12, 2014)

I made flats on two sides with a Dremel tool as this leaves the head stronger and used a pair of parrell jaw pliers to twist out the rivits. The can even be reused in a pinch.


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## Thoro (Jan 12, 2014)

Well, how did you make out? Interested to see how it happened for you.

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Cactus Farmer said:


> I made flats on two sides with a Dremel tool as this leaves the head stronger and used a pair of parrell jaw pliers to twist out the rivits. The can even be reused in a pinch.




I like the idea behind that approach.


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## fastback (Jan 12, 2014)

Sam, when I restored my Heavy Ten I was able to remove all of the rivets and reuse them.  I used an old tack remover (you know the one with a wooden handle and the end looks like a snakes tongue) I was able to gently pry up the rivets just a little and then used a vice to turn them out.  I removed about 8 or 10 doing it this way.

Paul


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## vettebob (Jan 12, 2014)

I use a flush cut diagonal cutters squeeze and twist to remove Been doing it this way for years.  Bob


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## GK1918 (Jan 13, 2014)

Fisrt I shall thank everyone for the input.  So I chose a .030 thick mill slit saw with 1/4" arbor into an air die grinder & sugically slit em.  With a perfect
fitting screwdriver all came out like they were put in yesterday.  No damage-no damage to rivits,  I shall reuse them (they look like a real screws now)..
One thing I was pleased for my choice of gray is just about dead on with the color under said plate, but I cleaned and repainted the gear box.

Guess that was the easy part,, the now the hard part is eyeballin my mailbox !!!!

sam


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## RandyM (Jan 13, 2014)

GK1918 said:


> I shall reuse them (they look like a real screws now)..
> sam



Hey Sam,

They are actually called drive screws and McMaster Carr has them if you might want to replace the plate to look original.


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## chuckorlando (Jan 13, 2014)

Top notch man


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## GK1918 (Jan 13, 2014)

RandyM said:


> Hey Sam,
> 
> They are actually called drive screws and McMaster Carr has them if you might want to replace the plate to look original.



Ya Randy, I know of these things but never fiddleled with them.  Big rivits on truck frames Yes.   These little things no.  lol   

Now its the wait for Santa's mail truck.  by the way these come blank in the info area,  any ideas  to stamp lathe info  (NOT ME, my stamping number look like)  that word
aint been invented yet...  

sam

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fastback said:


> Sam, when I restored my Heavy Ten I was able to remove all of the rivets and reuse them.  I used an old tack remover (you know the one with a wooden handle and the end looks like a snakes tongue) I was able to gently pry up the rivets just a little and then used a vice to turn them out.  I removed about 8 or 10 doing it this way.
> 
> Paul




Paul dont know if you are following this, you know what i'm up to, now the- info- area is blank and I'm no good at stamping.    Per chance would you know if Balfor's
if they are still alive would do a walk in-simple job,   or some local engraver?  Nothing around Taunton.  

sam    ps  ya I got that snake tongue used to bang in the model t roof nails.......


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## cuseguy (Jan 13, 2014)

I bought the $12 stamping die kit at Harbor Fright, lined them up and swung hard! It came out good but its was a little nerve-racking and I recommend practicing first. I practiced on some old aluminum flashing before I felt confident. If you have someone that will do it....I would. You also should roll the plate slightly to fit the curve.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


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## GK1918 (Jan 13, 2014)

cuseguy said:


> I bought the $12 stamping die kit at Harbor Fright, lined them up and swung hard! It came out good but its was a little nerve-racking. If you have someone that will do it....I would. You also should roll the plate slightly to fit the curve.
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3



Oh yeh thanks, I got that covered already  my big GK 1918's tail stock is just bout right for the curve..    (Its slight and its brass good ta go)


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## RandyM (Jan 13, 2014)

GK1918 said:


> by the way these come blank in the info area,  any ideas  to stamp lathe info  (NOT ME, my stamping number look like)  that word
> aint been invented yet...
> 
> sam



Sam,
Doing stuff like this I like to have it engraved. It turns out far, far better. Good luck.


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