# PAINT!!



## cbrmadman (Jun 24, 2014)

Restoring my old Atlas mill and base cabinet. What kind of paint can I pick up locally that will resist oil chips and degreaser without breaking my bank??

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## Don B (Jun 24, 2014)

cbrmadman said:


> Restoring my old Atlas mill and base cabinet. What kind of paint can I pick up locally that will resist oil chips and degreaser without breaking my bank??
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk




  I won't advise you on different kinds of paint because I really don't know much about it, I usually just use "tremclad rust paint" and mix a couple colors to get close to what I want, but have a look at some Japan Dryer if your using a compressor and spray gun set up and Enamel paint, it's wonderful stuff, it really makes Enamel paints quit a bit tougher and a little more resistant to different types of chemicals.)

Edit: nothing fancy about mixing it, I just thin the enamel until its right for my gun and pour the Japan Dryer in until theres a little layer covering the paint, mix it in and spray, get it out of the gun as soon as possible though and run a little solvent through the spray gun.


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## cbrmadman (Jun 24, 2014)

Thanks Don
Hows that tremclad work for you
My biggest concern is the degreaser that stuff like to melt paint away

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## TOOLMASTER (Jun 24, 2014)

epoxy paint...durable as hell


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## Don B (Jun 24, 2014)

cbrmadman said:


> Thanks Don
> Hows that tremclad work for you
> My biggest concern is the degreaser that stuff like to melt paint away
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk



 It really toughens it up, I'm not sure exactly what type of degreaser you mean but I started using this method on cowling's of RC planes, the RC fuel will strip normal pain right off and stain it as well, and the special paints where quit expensive to experiment with, I've cleaned off things I've painted with lacquer thiner and besides a little color on the rag really no damage, I'm sure it would if it soaked in though.


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## cbrmadman (Jun 24, 2014)

How much does that epoxy paint cost toolmaster

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## Marco Bernardini (Jun 24, 2014)

Just curious… why not powder coating?
Not that of my Cheapex Chinese drill press, still leaving colored dust 5 years I'm using it, but something more robust.


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## Don B (Jun 24, 2014)

Marco Bernardini said:


> Just curious… why not powder coating?
> Not that of my Cheapex Chinese drill press, still leaving colored dust 5 years I'm using it, but something more robust.



I_'_ve wondered how hard powder coating is to, and if there's a practical/affordable way for a person to do it in the home shop, I have a nephew who paints in his own shop, but I know he send all the powder coating stuff out, I guessed/assumed based on that it was impractical for the average person  :thinking:


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## Marco Bernardini (Jun 24, 2014)

Don B said:


> I_'_ve wondered how hard powder coating is to, and if there's a practical/affordable way for a person to do it in the home shop, I have a nephew who paints in his own shop, but I know he send all the powder coating stuff out, I guessed/assumed based on that it was impractical for the average person  :thinking:



According to the many YouTube videos available it seems an easy method: degrease, sand blast, spray dust, cook.
Even Harbor Freak has a gun for an almost cheap price: http://www.harborfreight.com/10-30-psi-powder-coating-system-94244.html
My guess is the quality of the coating highly depends by the type of powder and by the cooking, rather than by the gun.


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## jpfabricator (Jun 24, 2014)

cbrmadman said:


> How much does that epoxy paint cost toolmaster
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk



I priced a gallon about 3 months ago at National Coating and Supply @ $110 per gallon. It is a 2 part epoxy thats tinted to your limited color choice. It has about a 2 hour cure time.It bonds to bare metal or filler material, but could make old paint wrinkle, and blister. After fully cured (a full 24 hours) it is resistant to most chemicals used in the home shop. 
The paint man told me all this when I asked him about it.
He said the coverage was fair (one gallon per big machine)
He warned me to purchase a cheap spray gun and just throw it away when done; if any hardens in the pickup or the cup it will be ruined anyway.

Jake Parker


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## cbrmadman (Jun 24, 2014)

My neighbor coats my bike frames and powder coat seems to be really thick and I could see issues with reasembly of the machine after coating although powder on the mill would look awsome

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## SEK_22Hornet (Jun 24, 2014)

I have done some powder coating in the past using both the Eastwood Hotcoat system and the HF system. They both work fine. Biggest problem is handling the un-cured powder coated parts. Small parts I did in an old electric kitchen oven (don't try a gas one and don't use the one in your kitchen!) and make sure it isn't a convection type - the air in the oven needs to be still to keep from disturbing the powder. The type of powder determines a lot of things - curing time, curing temp, UV resistance, chemical resistance, etc. Film thickness can be controlled just like painting - put on just enough and not too much (yep - it'll take a practice run or two - just like painting) Need a still place to coat close to the heat source and small parts are pretty easy. Larger parts can be done using in IR heater (no fans!) It is messy - the powder is very fine and respirator should be worn whenever handling it, let alone when spraying it. Water must be kept out of the system. Check out the Hotcoat site for all the details. Powders can be purchased off ebay as well as from HF and Eastwood. Pay attention to the powder type and make sure you use the one you need to get the type of end result you want - Most epoxy chalks really bad in UV for example. Polyester is pretty good in UV, but softer that epoxy, and a little less chemical resistant. Also, most powders must go over bare metal or special powder type undercoats - no filler under the powder coat. It's been a few years, so I'm sure some things have changed since I last played with it.


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## schor (Jun 24, 2014)

I use caliper or wheel paints on my restores. Holds up great to everything I find. I do a primer, a couple color coats and a couple clear coats over top.


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## SovXietday (Jul 6, 2014)

High temp engine block paint is also pretty good at dealing with this stuff. I spray brake clean all over the engines I have with this stuff on it and they don't even notice.


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## nickmckinney (Jul 6, 2014)

I use true automotive single stage paints with the added hardener with an epoxy primer base coat. I just did a job for someone that wanted "battleship grey" so I got some industrial grey from Napa for a whopping $35 a gallon and added the same hardener and reducer in a 4:1:1 ratio just like the auto paints. Its hard as a rock and so far holding up the same. Its cure time was about 30 minutes so you could probably brush it on without leaving strokes.


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## Mark in Indiana (Jul 12, 2014)

nickmckinney said:


> I use true automotive single stage paints with the added hardener with an epoxy primer base coat. I just did a job for someone that wanted "battleship grey" so I got some industrial grey from Napa for a whopping $35 a gallon and added the same hardener and reducer in a 4:1:1 ratio just like the auto paints. Its hard as a rock and so far holding up the same. Its cure time was about 30 minutes so you could probably brush it on without leaving strokes.



I really like your paint tips. I've painted a lot of equipment with Rusroleum, with good results. The big challenge is my Cincinnati milling machine. Although I would love to polish and paint it, the oil being slung would stain the paint. After reading your post, I'll go ahead & try it in the future.


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## Senna (Jul 12, 2014)

For rattle can stuff I've been using X-O Rust Professional paint and primer in one. Mostly in GLOSS Machinery Grey. Gloss paint wipes down much better than flat or semi-gloss.
The stuff coats very well but takes a rather long time to dry. You can handle it after 24 hours easily but I've noticed this paint keeps getting harder for a week or longer. When it seems fully cured it's some pretty tough stuff. Around here they sell it at L&M Fleet Supply, Menard's and a few other places.


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## f350ca (Jul 12, 2014)

Its hard to beat the durability of two part epoxy paint but unless your equipped to spray it there is a health risk. I only spray it outside or with the shop doors open and a good chemical filter mask, should be using a fresh air supplied full face helmet. It contains isocyonides (sp) really bad for your nervous system, they accumulate over time, unlike the dreaded lead that will exit your body over time.
Like Nick I use single stage automotive urethane, with the hardener it sets quite well and seams fairly oil resistant.
Heres a lathe I did a few months ago with it, I use sulphur based cutting oil that doesn't like to wipe off taps, and it hasn't stained it.



Greg


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## Andre (Jul 22, 2014)

Don B said:


> I_'_ve wondered how hard powder coating is to, and if there's a practical/affordable way for a person to do it in the home shop, I have a nephew who paints in his own shop, but I know he send all the powder coating stuff out, I guessed/assumed based on that it was impractical for the average person  :thinking:



I had a grizzly wood lathe that's powder coated. It's so thick it chips really easy. Not that dourable but for a home shop it's probably fine.


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## nickmckinney (Jul 22, 2014)

Powder coat does not chip because of thickness. Painting and powder coating is 95% prep and 5% paint, if it chips it was not prepped properly.


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## cjtoombs (Jul 23, 2014)

I have tried many alternatives and my conclusion is that cheap and durable are mutualy exclusive, especialy when it comes to chemical resistance.  I have gone to using automotive grade epoxy or polyester primer and automotive grade acrylic enamel paint.  Acetone won't touch it, and that's my acid test for paint.  I get mine from a supplier in San Diego over the internet (paints sold in CA have to be low VOC, so out of state sourcing is out for me, they won't even ship it here).  It's actualy very reasonably priced for automotive paint, but it's still way more expensive than the rattle can from the hardware store.


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## nickmckinney (Jul 23, 2014)

I paint dental/medical equipment in my day job. Higher end single stage urethane we use is $48 a pint and $159 a gallon - wholesale pricing. If it chips or scratches or discolors from UV I warranty it. It gets handled constantly all day and can get wiped with alcohol every 10 minutes or so depending on the location. We also use powder coat. If done correctly it does not chip, flake, or even discolor with UV. Lacquer thinner is the ultimate test for paint IMHO.


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## cjtoombs (Jul 23, 2014)

Depending on the color, the paint I get runs about 35 per quart and 80 or so a gallon.  I have experience with the acrylic enamel, and I have heard from some of the local guys that it stands up better for our conditions here (desert) than the urethane paints.  Not that it matters much for a machine inside a building, but I use the spray "Brake Cleaner" for cleanup in the shop frequently, and from the smell and feel, it is pure acetone.  I don't keep lacquer thinner or enamel reducer around, since the low VOC paints don't use it.


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## David Kirtley (Jul 23, 2014)

Boat paints are pretty good also if you can live with the limited color choices. 2 part polyurethanes that are pretty resistant to most stuff.

I have not had the inclination to mess with it yet, but I picked up one of the cheap Craftsman powder coating guns. Picked it up for like $30 it is like a hair drier with an electrostatic lead. Have not picked up a toaster over to test it out. Someday it will make it on the to do list.


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