# Cutting Oil



## abrace

All,

        I need to get some cutting oil and am not sure what everyone would recommend. I have the Grizzly g4003g lathe that has yet to be started up and the harbor freight 4x6 bandsaw.

        For the bandsaw I have been using 3 in 1 oil, which works to some extent, but I would like to have 1 cutting oil for everything.

        None of my systems have flood coolant/pumps so it is oil that is just brushed or squirted on the metal. I would like something safe for yellow metals just in case.

        I don't have anything against water based coolants but am concerned it may rust my bandsaw blade or other components/tooling if it isn't cleaned up completely well.

       What does everyone recommend?


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## JimDawson

A few days ago I bought a quart of Thread Cutting Oil from my local Ace Hardware.  It seems to work OK in all metals I have tried it on, both drilling and tapping.  Have not used it for other cutting, but it should work fine.  A bit expensive at$12.95, but it just takes a few drops.  The big box stores also carry cutting oils.



As a side note, I also bought a Plews oil can to put it in.  Not very happy with it, the trigger sticks out way too far for a comfortable grip, and with a little oil on things your hand slides right to the top.  Poor design, almost not usable.....I'll give this one a fail.


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## zmotorsports

For carbon steels I use the Dark Cutting oil from Rigid products.  I use a Spillmaster container and a brush for both mill and lathe work.

For aluminum I use Relton's A-9 cutting fluid in a Spillmaster and brush most of the time and other times on aluminu I use a small spray bottle with WD-40.

For thread cutting I have found Castrol's Moly thread cutting fluid works great.

Mike.


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## Bob Korves

Mobilmet 766 gallon jug from Enco. currently free shipping.  PM me if you need the code.  I also have some AnchorLube, which is water based and a thick paste.  It is good on stainless and it is better at clinging to the tool or work when you need that.  Free samples are available from AnchorLube if you reference Bar-Z Industrial.


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## Smithdoor

I do most sawing dry and low speed on saw
If I am cutting aluminum WD40 spray
I did try coolant and cutting oil back in 70's for cutting steel it did make saw blade last any longer  low speed work the best

Dave


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## zmotorsports

Oh I forgot to add that I don't use any cutting oil on my bandsaws.  I do my cutting dry for the most part but on long heavy cuts I will use some of the Relton's Stick Kut lubricating was on the blade.

Mike.


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## abrace

Bob Korves said:


> Mobilmet 766 gallon jug from Enco. currently free shipping.  PM me if you need the code.  I also have some AnchorLube, which is water based and a thick paste.  It is good on stainless and it is better at clinging to the tool or work when you need that.  Free samples are available from AnchorLube if you reference Bar-Z Industrial.



I did buy a gallon of MobilMet 766, but it has a big warning on it about corroding yellow metals, so I am a little gunshy to use it.


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## Bob Korves

abrace said:


> I did buy a gallon of MobilMet 766, but it has a big warning on it about corroding yellow metals, so I am a little gunshy to use it.


So, don't use it on yellow metals.  Most brass, for instance, machines well dry.  So do many other yellow metals.  Get that free sample of AnchorLube for when you need a cutting aid on yellow metals, "just in case" you do.  Use up that gallon jug!


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## abrace

Bob Korves said:


> So, don't use it on yellow metals.  Most brass, for instance, machines well dry.  So do many other yellow metals.  Get that free sample of AnchorLube for when you need a cutting aid on yellow metals, "just in case" you do.  Use up that gallon jug!



Hehehe, yah, I am not so worried about the items I am cutting and more about a piece of machinery that the fluid is being used on that contains some yellow metals, like gearing or the like.

Am I safe to assume that a harbor freight band saw and a Grizzly G4003G lathe is void of any yellow metals? If so then good.

Sorry for the dumb questions but this is an area I am very unfamiliar with.


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## Bob Korves

If using Mobilmet 766 for cutting metal on a lathe was an issue, you would definitely have heard about it by now...


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## abrace

Bob Korves said:


> If using Mobilmet 766 for cutting metal on a lathe was an issue, you would definitely have heard about it by now...



Noted, so I can use the mobilmet I already have guilt free.

Any opinions on using water based cutting fluids and possible corrosion of items due to water? Or is that not really an issue? I have a gallon bottle of some water based fluid in addition to the Mobilmet.  I believe it is called Tap Free.


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## Bob Korves

The warning on yellow metals is likely due to an EP (extreme pressure) additive.  It has been a while since I read about it, but IIRC enclosed gearboxes and elevated temperatures is where most of the problems with EP additive manifest themselves.  As a cutting oil the worst you would probably see is some staining --  IIRC!

You should use up the Tapfree as well.  Here is their website:
http://tapfree.com/productinfo.html


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## abrace

Thanks bob


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## Bob Korves

Yellow metals and gearboxes with sulfur based EP additives: 
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28958/ep-additives-effects 
Note temperature effects...


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## ch2co

You are using these lubricants as cutting fluids on the parts you are machining, not on working parts of your lathe/miss/etc.  Short term contact with copper based metals, brass etc. will cause no harm if you clean the parts after you cut them. I haven't found a need to use a lubricant on brass/bronze yet.  I do use WD40 on aluminum on occasion, one of the only things I use WD40 for actually. 

CHuck the grumpy old guy


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## kingmt01

I only use oil when cutting threads or a fly cutter on the mill. Steel gets 90/10 oil/kerosene %aluminum gets 10/90. Those are precision measured by eye to make sure the mix is correct. My bandsaw always cuts dry anymore. But if I was going to use something out seems water works the best. I do blow some air once in a while.


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## Wreck™Wreck

A water based coolant that is soluble oil will pose no threat of corrosion if the mixture is oil rich, the water evaporates and leaves the oil behind, on everything I might add. A very light oil content may well lead to rust on steel machine components.
A 90% water/10% oil mixture is an excellent coolant yet a poor lubricant, a 70% water/30% oil mix is a less efficient coolant but a much better lubricant. The use of either is dependent on conditions, does the process require more cooling or more lubrication? Choose wisely.

I would not use soluble coolant for tapping, non aggressive single point threading I do with coolant.


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## abrace

Thanks everyone.

Seems that no one is using any oil with their bandsaw and they cut dry. As I said in the OP, I currently use 3:1 oil (couple of drops). Is there a reason others don't do this? My saw seems to cut good dry, I just figured a little oil might help keep the heat down and help it cut a little better, extending the life of the blade.

Thoughts?

Thanks everyone, you think I have questions now, wait until I actually get the lathe fired up....


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## John Hasler

abrace said:


> Seems that no one is using any oil with their bandsaw and they cut dry.


I always use WD40 when cutting aluminum and a bit of hydraulic fluid when cutting steel.


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## zmotorsports

Too bad your not near me here in Northern Utah, I have a gallon (nearly full) of the Mobil 1 766 that I would give you as I don't care for it much.

Matter of fact if anyone is in northern Utah, contact me and you can come and get it.

Please don't contact me to ship as I don't want to deal with the UPS crap of shipping liquids again.

Mike.


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## Paul in OKC

I use water soluble stuff at home in a spray bottle for machining. Tapping fluid for drilling and tapping, usually.  Little Machine Shop has their cutting oil on sale in an 8 oz bottle for about $5.   I run my saw dry mostly.  At work it is coolant in everything.


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## joshua43214

I accidently acquired a gallon of ReLiOn I forgot to remove from my basket at Grizzly.
Have to say I'm happy with it, and use it for steel. I'm sure there is better stuff, but it works. Seems to work better the more difficult the material is as well.
I got a gallon of WD-40 and a spray bottle and use it on aluminum. This seems to be what most people use.
I also got a bottle of Tap Magic a while ago. I really love this stuff.

Do not confuse coolant and oil. They do very different things. Things will be cooler with coolant, so you can cut deeper and spend less time letting things cool down. Coolant lets you push limits farther than normal, and helps with cutting really hard materials. Lots of hobbyists do run coolant, if you have it might as well benefit from it. On the other hand, lots of pros don't use it. Oil is what give you the better finish, it aids chip removal. If the chips can't get away from the tool/work efficiently, they will ruin the finish.


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## TomS

+1 on Mobilmet 766.  Been using it for years with good results.  And the price is right.  I don't use cutting fluids or coolant in my band saws.  Makes a mess I don't want to clean up.  When I'm cutting large dimension material I will touch the blade with a stick of parafin wax I've had around the shop for years.

Tom S.


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## dave2176

I like Viper's Venom cutting oil. LMS or Grizzly carry it, I expect many others do also. I keep it in a spillmaster container with an acid brush to apply. On a chamber reamer I am more generous.


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## 63redtudor

I just use the dark cutting oil found at the Home Depot. Usually found in the plumbing area. Comes in a white plastic bottle. Think its also on Amazon (I'm sure other places carry it as well).


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## Moparmyway

Wd40 for me with aluminum 
 Rigid Nu Clear or Dark cutting oil in my bandsaw and on steel in the lathe


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## 4GSR

After switching to Moblimelt 766 a couple years ago, I won't go back to using the dark stuff, Oakley, from Home Depot.  Not even for cutting pipe threads with a Ridged pipe threader.  You can't beat Mobilmelt 766!  Great stuff!  I also like Tap free for tapping holes. The new Tap Magic is not as good as the old stuff, BTW- still have a couple of cans of the old stuff hid out, if the contents has not vaporized out!, Tap Free has Tap Magic beat, hands down!


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## Bob Korves

abrace said:


> Thanks everyone.
> 
> Seems that no one is using any oil with their bandsaw and they cut dry. As I said in the OP, I currently use 3:1 oil (couple of drops). Is there a reason others don't do this? My saw seems to cut good dry, I just figured a little oil might help keep the heat down and help it cut a little better, extending the life of the blade.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> Thanks everyone, you think I have questions now, wait until I actually get the lathe fired up....


3 in 1 oil is lubricating oil, not cutting oil.


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## abrace

Bob Korves said:


> 3 in 1 oil is lubricating oil, not cutting oil.



Hence my question on cutting oil to begin with. I know it isn't the right stuff, but it actually hasn't worked terribly.

Started brushing mobilmet onto my bandsaw materials yesterday. Seems to be working so far. Got one of those nice spill proof containers. Never seen one of those before, pretty slick.


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## Bob Korves

I have been using Mobilmet 766 for cutting steel on my bandsaw.  It cuts better with the oil.  Quite a few other people say the oil makes a mess of the saw.  I have not seen that yet, but I am not a heavy saw user.  We'll see...

Some people like to use stick lubricant on their band saws, and some people also add brushes on the lower end to wipe the chips off the blade.  Some prefer cutting dry.  Those are probably good ideas as well.  There is a Yahoo group https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/4x6bandsaw/info that is very active and has loads of information on using, caring for, and modifying those saws.


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## Smithdoor

FYI
If you doing paint and welding dry is the best no clean up need to use cut parts
Most machine shop doing machine work after cutting will use water coolants

Dave


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## abrace

Smithdoor said:


> FYI
> If you doing paint and welding dry is the best no clean up need to use cut parts
> Most machine shop doing machine work after cutting will use water coolants
> Dave



Thanks.

I just burned right through some Mobilmet on some angle iron with 6011 rod. It eats mobilmet for breakfast...mig and definitely tig, different story..hehe.

Point taken though, band saw blades aren't that expensive.

On a side note these Olson blades I have been using seem pretty good.


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## Smithdoor

At one time I would cut over 100 tons of steel per year with two band saws note he also debur or drill the parts as the saws cut
I had lot time to spend on cutting steel and found dry work great
The only time I use coolant was cutting Aluminum and if we were just cutting a few bars use WD40

Dave



abrace said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I just burned right through some Mobilmet on some angle iron with 6011 rod. It eats mobilmet for breakfast...mig and definitely tig, different story..hehe.
> 
> Point taken though, band saw blades aren't that expensive.
> 
> On a side note these Olson blades I have been using seem pretty good.


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## tincture500

I used bar and chain oil. Buy a quart for 3.50. It's great as it hangs with the metal being cut. Use the same with a squirt of moly oil for threading. It can be thinned with some power steering fluid.  Rxman


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## ch2co

I've been using Rigid threading oil for work on mild steel. I've tried other cutting oils but the odor and smoke was objectionable. Someone above suggested possibly more "organic" oils, and I just tried some canola oil and was amazed!  Seemed to be as good of an oil as the Rigid and what little odor and smoke there was was very pleasant, it almost made me hungry . It couldn't get any cheaper. 

Has anyone else used this stuff?? Comments?

CHuck the grumpy old guy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## planeflyer21

ch2co said:


> I've been using Rigid threading oil for work on mild steel. I've tried other cutting oils but the odor and smoke was objectionable. Someone above suggested possibly more "organic" oils, and I just tried some canola oil and was amazed!  Seemed to be as good of an oil as the Rigid and what little odor and smoke there was was very pleasant, it almost made me hungry . It couldn't get any cheaper.
> 
> Has anyone else used this stuff?? Comments?
> 
> CHuck the grumpy old guy
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



One of my instructors said he liked to use Crisco cooking oil on his home shop lathe.  I had thought he meant the lard substitute, not the liquid.  The solid shortening is quite the chip magnet.


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## ch2co

One other advantage to using Canola oil is that it its so much easier to clean up, and it doesn't smell like **** when you get in on your hands.
I realize that this isn't a production cutting oil, but for the small one-off job it works great.  I hear that Avocado oil and Walnut oil have even higher 
smoke temperatures, but after going to the grocery store and seeing the price for these, Canola oil seems hard to beat.  

CHuck the grumpy (and sort of weird) old guy


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## janvanruth

Canola oil does work fine
In the old days it was the number one 
Problem is that, if left on the lathe, albeit a thin layer, it will turn into a sticky varnish and is very hard to get rid off, it wont dissolve in oils.
I tried it, as i dont like the fumes of mineral oils very much, but decided against it after having to clean up the lathe and having to use a very nasty chemical to get rid of it.


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## ch2co

Jan
Polymerization of a cutting oil is something that I would never have considered.  Yes it could possibly be a problem if used a lot and not cleaned off thoroughly.
I have dealt with polymerized greases found in telescope mounts and it is a real problem.  Many of the Asian built telescope mounts have a black grease in them that turns into a very sticky tar substance which doesn't lend itself to precision gearing very well. Its a real mess to clean up. I cut steel to seldom the I don't think that I have to worry too much about this problem, but its a good thing to consider when using cooking oils to lubricate cutting tools. But it smells so good!

CHuck the grumpy old guy


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## Heavycrimp

I mostly saw dry and occasionally use paraffin or a bar of Ivory soap (whichever I first lay my hands upon).  Just let it run against the blade for a few seconds.  With some of the nastier grades of stainless, I set up my little mist coolant to just sputter a little coolant on the blade.  I then make sure to take a blow gun and clean the works out with compressed air.  When running coolants or oils on a dry-cut saw, the tiny chips can tend to congregate on ribs, corners, etc and rust into a solid mass.  They can then slough off at the most inconvenient times and wedge between the blade and the wheel.  At best, this causes blade breakage or belt slippage.  It can also cause self-destruction of the innards if the above does not happen.  I am not a lucky person.......


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## Brucebr

abrace said:


> All,
> 
> I need to get some cutting oil and am not sure what everyone would recommend. I have the Grizzly g4003g lathe that has yet to be started up and the harbor freight 4x6 bandsaw.
> 
> For the bandsaw I have been using 3 in 1 oil, which works to some extent, but I would like to have 1 cutting oil for everything.
> 
> None of my systems have flood coolant/pumps so it is oil that is just brushed or squirted on the metal. I would like something safe for yellow metals just in case.
> 
> I don't have anything against water based coolants but am concerned it may rust my bandsaw blade or other components/tooling if it isn't cleaned up completely well.
> 
> What does everyone recommend?




 I have a Grizzly G4003g I cut a lot of Stainless Steel Rod. Mostly threading. I was having a bugger of a time with it then I read what some old timers did. A 50/50 mix of Ace cutting oil and lard. That's right, lard. I've compared it to every exotic and expensive out there such as Tap Magic extra heavy and many others. The oil lard mix leaves an excellent finish and I don't overheat the stainless. That's my 2 cents


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## ki4byz

Rapid Tap cutting oil works good with all metals. I prefer WD-40 on Alum. and copper.
Bandsaw runs dry
Cutting oil increases the cutting action,Lube oil decreases cutting action.
Just my 2  cents
Tim


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## Kody the Bear

For what it's worth..
I just retired from GM engineering lab.
As a machine lube, we used a 50/50 mix of WD40 and ATF.  Great results for turning and general machining.   I won't be without it, in my shop.


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## partsproduction

Try as a test tapping 8-32 in 304 stainless, 4 holes with any other oil and 4 holes with MollyDee. Try that same test in 1018.

There have been very few real eye openers for me in the shop, one was the first time I saw a display of what an insert milling cutter will do, and the second was a job where I had a few thousand 10-24 taps to do in 1018 3/16" thick plate. It soon became clear that we were going to spend more money on taps than we would make on the job, then I tried MolyDee and got the remaining holes All tapped with one tap!


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## GarageGuy

For steel, I buy this for less than $5 a bottle at Menards and Home Depot.  I prefer the clear cutting oil to the dark.  Seems to leave a better finish for me.




For aluminum I use good old WD-40.  It's cheap, works great, and almost everyone has some already anyway!

GG


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## planeflyer21

partsproduction said:


> Try as a test tapping 8-32 in 304 stainless, 4 holes with any other oil and 4 holes with MollyDee. Try that same test in 1018.
> 
> There have been very few real eye openers for me in the shop, one was the first time I saw a display of what an insert milling cutter will do, and the second was a job where I had a few thousand 10-24 taps to do in 1018 3/16" thick plate. It soon became clear that we were going to spend more money on taps than we would make on the job, then I tried MolyDee and got the remaining holes All tapped with one tap!



For us it was 4-40 taps in 17-4 castings.  Each one was a special adventure!


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## trickydic

I use all different kinds of cutting oils fluids to include water based fluids. If I had to pick just on that I could use and was in a budget it would be an easy choice. In the past I have used Chain/Bar lube, this is very cost effective and works very well for milling/drilling/turning and most tapping. As you can imagine this oil /lube is used at very high RPMs and being worked, getting hot a well to help cutting. Granted you are cutting wood but the lube/oil is being used for the bar/chain interaction. You can by this at your big stores on every corner for 10 bucks a gallon or under, it has worked for me for years when needed. Just a thought for your consideration.


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## Chip Hacket

Kody the Bear said:


> For what it's worth..
> I just retired from GM engineering lab.
> As a machine lube, we used a 50/50 mix of WD40 and ATF.  Great results for turning and general machining.   I won't be without it, in my shop.


Now that is interesting.  Never would have thought of that.  My Dad was an upholster as well as backyard mechanic and he used ATF for everything from sewing machine to squeaky hinges.  What is it about the combination that makes the difference?


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## SmokeWalker

JimDawson said:


> A few days ago I bought a quart of Thread Cutting Oil from my local Ace Hardware.  It seems to work OK in all metals I have tried it on, both drilling and tapping.  Have not used it for other cutting, but it should work fine.  A bit expensive at$12.95, but it just takes a few drops.  The big box stores also carry cutting oils.
> 
> 
> 
> As a side note, I also bought a Plews oil can to put it in.  Not very happy with it, the trigger sticks out way too far for a comfortable grip, and with a little oil on things your hand slides right to the top.  Poor design, almost not usable.....I'll give this one a fail.


That oil can is hilarious.


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## Guz

An ancient old, crotchety, machinist told me to use Marvel Mystery Oil as cutting oil. The stuff is brilliant. Thick enough to stay on spinning parts, dissipates heat nicely, and has kept my bits nice and sharp. The stuff is available just about anywhere.


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## jjtgrinder

For bandsaw cutting it makes a great deal of difference what you cut,  I would not cut dry!  I have a band saw - HarborFreight 1 HP 7 In. x 12 In. Hydraulic Feed Metal Cutting Band Saw, Item #97001 , I highly  recommend using a product called "TRIM C270" cutting fluid concentrate.  I bought it on Amazon.  Mix it with water (3 parts water to 1 part C270). This mix will not turn rancid, will not rust your equipment. About once a month, add some additional water, depending on how much you cut with the saw. About once or twice a year, add a cup of Trim C270 to the tank to compensate for loss. If you notice some rust on your saw, that means the "TRIM" is too weak in the solution. It is what they use in the local shipyard. They build ships for the United States Navy. I purchased the "Lenox Bi-Metal" blades on the internet from the BSBD.com.Lenox "CLASSIC" blades. They last a long time , I have cut stainless, high-carbon steel with them. No problem.

On the lathe, I use reqular dark cutting oil, brush it on.  Sometimes I take an old squirt bottle from the wife‘s hair dye kit and stick an old WD40 straw in the nozzle and use that to drip oil where I need it.


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## jjtgrinder

Kody the Bear said:


> As a machine lube, we used a 50/50 mix of WD40 and ATF. Great results for turning and general machining. I won't be without it, in my shop.



What do you mean by machine lube?  In the gear box , on the ways or cutting oil???


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## lawlessman

Wreck™Wreck said:


> A water based coolant that is soluble oil will pose no threat of corrosion if the mixture is oil rich, the water evaporates and leaves the oil behind, on everything I might add. A very light oil content may well lead to rust on steel machine components.
> A 90% water/10% oil mixture is an excellent coolant yet a poor lubricant, a 70% water/30% oil mix is a less efficient coolant but a much better lubricant. The use of either is dependent on conditions, does the process require more cooling or more lubrication? Choose wisely.
> 
> I would not use soluble coolant for tapping, non aggressive single point threading I do with coolant.



I use water soluble oil for many things, in my mist coolant units, very dilute (1/4 cup to a gallon of water) on the CNC units, a little less dilute on my mill unit, undiluted for tapping and thread forming, and "aerosolized" for flycutting.  To "aerosolize",  I dip a brush in my spillmaster container, hold the brush near the workpiece and hit it with a blast of air from a blowgun. Covers a large surface with a light coating in a few seconds, with little waste. (Don't do this while your flycutter is running.).
Now, for general cutting and tapping on my lathe, I use dark cutting oil, and on my two bandsaws I use only stick wax. Stick wax is easier and safer to apply than oil and doesn't mess up the tires on the bandsaw wheels. I use a Grizzley upright, 14" wood-cutting bandsaw with ordinary carbon steel blades, with no change of the blade speed, to cut aluminum. I have used hook-tooth, 4 tpi ripping blades to cut thru 4" thick aluminum, with just stick wax for lubricant. (It was amazingly fast, BTW).


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## WalterC

Bandsaw cuts are made dry. 

 I use a lot of 30w cheap $3.99 a quart HD motor oil diluted with minerals spirits- does fine for me for general turning.


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## dulltool17

Kody the Bear said:


> For what it's worth..
> I just retired from GM engineering lab.
> As a machine lube, we used a 50/50 mix of WD40 and ATF.  Great results for turning and general machining.   I won't be without it, in my shop.


Because I was curious, I tried this. I was seriously impressed (not that this is too hard)  I cut a couple of dovetails for sights on a rifle I'm building.  Smooth cuts, good finish, very happy with results.   I haven't used it for any turning work yet, but doubt that I'll be disappointed.  Excellent tip!


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## Kody the Bear

Chip Hacket said:


> Now that is interesting.  Never would have thought of that.  My Dad was an upholster as well as backyard mechanic and he used ATF for everything from sewing machine to squeaky hinges.  What is it about the combination that makes the difference?


As I'm not a chemist, I can only comment on my experience.  Works great for machining SS and Ti.   I use it in my spitter on the mill.  A gal of cheap ATF, and a gal of Liquid WD-40, will last years.  I'm not sure who came up with it, but if ya try it, it will shock you.   A friend in the Lab told me to try it once, and I haven't been without it since.    
Bear


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## Tozguy

Guz said:


> An ancient old, crotchety, machinist told me to use Marvel Mystery Oil as cutting oil. The stuff is brilliant. Thick enough to stay on spinning parts, dissipates heat nicely, and has kept my bits nice and sharp. The stuff is available just about anywhere.



Thought that this was a good idea since I have a few old bottles of MMO collecting dust. It does work great for cutting but the smell got to me.
Since MMO is a gas additive that has to burn easily and cleanly I am going to compare its flammability to that of some other cutting oils.


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## planeflyer21

Flammability tests.  We need video!


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## TheOtherBill

For your consideration:
Amazon doesn't sell Spillmaster but these came up in my search results: "Creativity 5104 No Spill"  They're poly and come with matching brushes. I can see multiple uses for these, especially for so cheap (10 for 13 bucks). I'm going to try some.


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## CraigB1960

I have a Kalamazoo horizontal bandsaw that I use a lube stick (wax) on.  I need to install a wet system on it and use a traditional coolant/lube for metal saws.  For my mill and lathe, depends on the material.  For aluminum I use WD40 (for machining operations) and Tap Magic, or Rapid Tap when tapping.  For ferrous & SS materials, I use Trim Sol as a cutting fluid.  Easy to apply in a spray bottle and mixed at 10% with distilled water.

Need to be careful on what you use for these operations.  Fumes and skin exposure can cause health risks.


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