# Need Help With Pm-25 X-axis Power Feed



## RegisG (May 24, 2016)

If someone has the X-axis power feed on their PM-25, please post photo of mounting.   Motor just came in yesterday and I have a couple questions. 
 -Did the bolt holes line up on the drive section or did you have to drill & tap your table?
 -Where/how did you mount the power supply (strap it on or did you open it and attach somehow)?

Absolutely nothing along the lines of instructions came with it.  When I called I got pretty general answer "mount anywhere".   Still waiting on call-back on drive section bolt holes.  Don't know if they sent the wrong unit or if they expect everyone to drill and tap bolt holes?????  Table holes are 3" and drive holes are 4 1/2" apart

Would appreciate some help. 

Thanks,
Regis


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## dlhoulton (May 24, 2016)

RegisG, I have the x power feed from Matt. I too was very disappointed with the product. Not at all what I had seen on models such as the one that fit on the Grizzly model (single box that bolted to table). I was not expecting two separate units. I called Matt asking if he had sent the wrong power feed and he stated that is what he had for the PM25. I also asked him if there were any instructions and he said it was just a simple bolt on unit and very easy to install (no instructions). I had to figure it out myself. I also asked him about any safety cut off (limit switches) and he said this unit had a "clutch". I still don't know what he meant by that. I asked how do I mount the other unit (box with plug) he said "be creative". Well first thing I noticed was it was a direct bolt on once I got longer bolts.  The original bolts (socket head)  on mill end plate were way to short. Just remove the hand wheel (no other disassembly).  The (key hole slots) on the power feed unit were larger than the head of the socket heads from the mill. I under stand how "key hole" slots are supposed to work but not on this unit. I had to use large washers on the inside of the power feed mount side just so the socket head bolts would have a good seat and be able to tighten down. As for the separate electrical box, it just sits on the floor. Someday I might drill and mount it to the side of the stand.


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## RegisG (May 24, 2016)

dlhoulton,
Sounds like you have almost the same problem I'm having.  PM was no help.  The one I have won't even go flush against the table.  I have to leave the bearing/spacer in place.  I'll have to make some kind of spacer so I can't over tighten the bolts that will be in the open.  
Here is what mine looks like before going to get bolts that will fit.   The keyed shaft fits fine but shaft close to the table is too large for the hole in the motor.  The unit looks stout enough but not pleased with odd installation.  I'll probably mount the power supply on the wall behind the mill.






Thank you for showing that this is a common problem and to not expect any help from Precision Mathews.
Regis


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## dlhoulton (May 24, 2016)

RegisG, look at my table picture then yours. You have a totally different table end cap. One thing Matt did ask of me was to send him pictures of my machine with end table shots. This power feed unit was designed for the "newer" PM25 mill. Matt should have confirmed which PM25 machine you had. I'm thinking your machine is the older model.


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## RegisG (May 24, 2016)

dlhoulton,
I just bought my mill in April of this year.  I hope they did not send me an old refurbished one......  They never asked anything about my mill and they found my original order so I did not have to give address.  They knew what I had. 
I finally got some spacers and screws to mount this.  Here is what mine looks like installed.





Regis


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## dlhoulton (May 24, 2016)

RegisG, That looks pretty darn good!! Like how you adapted and made it work. I don't know about you but I'm still a little upset with the lack of support on this. I mean no instructions, no hardware, no limit switches. Feel like it's just a basic unit with no extras. In my research I've not seen one that didn't have limit safety switches. I just wish Matt would have explained a little more. Seems like his attitude toward this was, if you got the machine you should know these things. I think he forgets some of us are total new to this type of stuff and need at lest some basic instructions/diagrams. I also noticed on mine at least there is no way to turn the power feed off. My green light does not work and the red light stays on all the time. There again, no instructions or literature!


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## brav65 (May 24, 2016)

I just got one of these as well, but have not had a chance to install. My mill is 2 years old and needed a new lead screw and end plate. When I install I am going to break it open and see if I can wire up some limit switches. I both proximity and snap switches, I am not sure which I will use. I pretty much got similar answers from Matt, I don't think he has any info on them yet from the factory.


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## dlhoulton (May 24, 2016)

brav65, would you have any idea by what Matt would mean by this having a "Clutch" instead of limit switch? Like I stated above when I asked Matt why it didn't have this safety feature his reply was it has a "Clutch"!!


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## RegisG (May 24, 2016)

dlhoulton,
Thank you but, I like your flush mount much better than my stand-off.    
How do you operate yours? Plug in, engage "clutch" select direction then adjust speed?  or do you use different sequence?

brav65,
When you get limit switch figured out, please share it as I sure would like to add it on mine.

Thanks,
Regis


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## dlhoulton (May 24, 2016)

I'm not sure which is the correct way but I usually keep the feed rate knob (mm/min) always on zero to prevent any rapid/unwanted movement until I'm ready. I also keep the "engage" knob in the disengage position. I select which direction I'm going to travel "forward/reverse" ( I prefer left or right travel). Then select the engage and slowly turn the feed speed up. But that's not set in stone. I've done it in several different order of operation without any grinding or adverse problems. But I always keep the rate of feed knob (mm/min) turned down after machining or when there is a change in cutter or repositioning the part being worked on. Just an anal safety precaution. I keep the unit plugged in at all times. I'm not sure if this is bad or what. It doesn't get warm or hot and it would be a real inconvenient to plug or unplug the power feed. That would be like unplugging your mill or lathe every time you were done with it. I guess it could be done but a real bummer.


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## RegisG (May 24, 2016)

I did get a call back from Matt.  Explained and sent him photos of parts and "fit".  He's going to dig into it more and will let me know what he finds.  He agrees that any hardware should have been included.  I'll expect to hear back in few days and maybe he'll find a better connection.
I don't think they sell many of these, especially for our smaller machines.

Regis


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## brav65 (May 24, 2016)

dlhoulton said:


> brav65, would you have any idea by what Matt would mean by this having a "Clutch" instead of limit switch? Like I stated above when I asked Matt why it didn't have this safety feature his reply was it has a "Clutch"!!


No, my question to him was about a wiring schematic for the drive so that I could wire in my own limit switches.


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## BobDBob (May 24, 2016)

Gents

I suspect the "clutch" is internal to the power feed unit's motor/gear drive assembly.  Instead of limit switches to kill power to the motor, the clutch would allow the motor to "slip" and continue to run in case a hard limit is reached.  Not necessarily the best methodology but should prevent blowing any internal fuse(s) or burning up the motor.  Bob


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## mksj (May 24, 2016)

A clutch prevents damage to the drive mechanism should it encounter a hard stop, often there is some form of friction mechanism. Limit switches would be helpful if you wanted to machine between two points or didn't have a clutch, but you then have the wires to deal with.  You could add limit switches to break power to the motor, they should be wired so you can power in the reverse direction once you hit a limit stop. Documentation is always a weak point with a lot of these import products, I have heard this raised for a number of generic power feeds, but agree it should be better.  I have all my mill axis drives and DRO powered by a local power strip/box that turns off when the mill is shut off. Alternatively use a power strip with a switch.


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## T Bredehoft (May 25, 2016)

RegisG said:


> Would appreciate some help.


 I see  you've modified the X axis table clamps, as I have. I did the same on the Y clamps. I don't know how many time's I'd jam one of the original clamps in the ways, stopping Y travel.


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## dlhoulton (May 25, 2016)

Yep, I got those X and Y table clamp/locks caught up a few times. Modified them for ease of use and safety. Also did the same to the column locks.


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## roadie33 (May 25, 2016)

You should have bought the Grizzly G0704 model X-Axis power feed. 
From what I have seen it will fit the PM25 also.
It was easy to install and comes with limit switches and everything you need.


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## wrmiller (May 25, 2016)

roadie33 said:


> You should have bought the Grizzly G0704 model X-Axis power feed.
> From what I have seen it will fit the PM25 also.
> It was easy to install and comes with limit switches and everything you need.



I had an older PM25 and I put the Griz power feed on the table. Fit very well and the guy who now owns the machine says it works good. Didn't install the limit switches though as I don't need/want them. Looked pretty straight forward though from a install perspective.


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## RegisG (May 26, 2016)

Well, to close this out, Matt sent me the answer.  When the factory mounts them, they use a spacer like I did (little nicer one though).  
I asked also about where to connect limit switches.  Matt said that there is a clutch adjustment inside the case and to NOT adjust it to hold a lot, just to release with a little hand pressure on handle (opposite side). 

Thanks for all the comments.
Regis


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## dlhoulton (May 26, 2016)

As said before, sure would help to have some type of documentation or instructions. Clutch adjustment inside the case? Where, what does it look like, how would you adjust it? Can it be reset in the event that you need to? Guess we will have to call Matt up each and every time. I'm just learning and not that experienced with things like this.
RegisG, you did a great job of figuring out how to mount it. Are you going to try anything else or just stay with what you've done? Does it work well with the way you have it now?


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## RegisG (May 26, 2016)

dlhoulton said:


> As said before, sure would help to have some type of documentation or instructions. Clutch adjustment inside the case? Where, what does it look like, how would you adjust it? Can it be reset in the event that you need to? Guess we will have to call Matt up each and every time. I'm just learning and not that experienced with things like this.
> RegisG, you did a great job of figuring out how to mount it. Are you going to try anything else or just stay with what you've done? Does it work well with the way you have it now?


Well, you have to open the bottom to see anything.  There are what "looks like" clutch plates but, I have no idea how to adjust.  Wish I would have taken bottom off to initially install as you can see the bolts without just feeling around. 
I have a call in to Matt and will pass on any adjustment.   Clutch on mine trips with just slightest pressure. 

Regis


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## RegisG (May 26, 2016)

Matt did give me a call back about adjusting the clutch.  The is a hole in shaft to hold with a punch and then turn the spanner nut a little.  He said to not tighten too much so I went, perhaps 1/8 turn max.  I now have a nice firm drive.
I looked at the one for the G0704 and now that I know my way around this one, I'm pleased with it. 

Regis


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