# Jet BD-920N Paint Color.. and thoughts from owners



## KenS (Nov 26, 2011)

I have an opportunity to purchase a well-tooled, but somewhat ratty Jet BD-920N lathe. It will need a strip-down, cleaning and some fresh paint. Does anyone here know a paint code that will match the cream-color of this lathe from the factory?

Also, I would be interested to hear from owners of the Jet BD-920 series (N or W) about their opinion of the lathe for light home shop use. If you have photos of your lathe, and/or projects you have made with it, I'd appreciate your posting them. Also, if you have needed parts for your lathe, where do you buy them, and how has service been.

TIA.


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## bvd1940 (Nov 26, 2011)

Watch how you prepare it for paint as you will find lots of bondo/body filler under the paint. If it a small chip in paint use paint glazing to fill divit, if its a big one use bondo. There will be a bunch of mods you will want to do if not modded yet, first will be the compound mount, just Google 9x20 mods and you will find them.
Have fun:biggrin:


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## nsfr1206 (Nov 26, 2011)

If they are they same color as Jet wood working tools there is a Rustoleum rattle can color that matches VERY well. YMMV:biggrin:


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## KenS (Nov 27, 2011)

I have learned that Rustoleum Canvas White is a good match for the Jet off-white.


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## KenS (Nov 27, 2011)

Rickabilly said:


> ... and definately use a rear parting toolpost...



Rick, a "rear parting toolpost" is a new one on me. Could you describe it? I assume its not the same as a Quick Change Tool Post.

Also, do you have any photos of your container workshop, and did it settle in the UK with you? Sounds like you had an interesting job.



Rickabilly said:


> ... I just add an idler gear to give a reverse on the rare occasion that I need to cut lefty threads...



is this something you can do without modifying the gear train? Also, since the chuck backplate is threaded on, when running in reverse isn't there the chance of spinning off the chuck?




Bill Gruby said:


> As I said the Cross Slide Lead screw jammed on the cast nut in a cut so it was swapped out for a much larger on. I am in the process of adding hands off facing on the Cross Slide. It will run off the main Lead Screw.



Billy, did you fabricate your own cast nut, or are they available aftermarket? I assume your powered cross slide will be done with gearing and not a separate motor. Are you using internet-available plans, or wlll this be your own design?

Everyone, thanks so much for you input. Would enjoy seeing photos of your 9x20s. I'm always looking for ideas.

Ken


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## KenS (Nov 28, 2011)

Rickabilly,

What an informative response!

First, I hope that now you are out from under the stress-- physical and mental-- that your spine has been able to heal and you are enjoying a measure of health.

As Bill said, a rear toolpost is mounted on the far end of the Cross slide "table" and simply put is just a very basic toolpost, , the blade is turned up side down and you use it with the lathe turning in the normal direction, so no chance of spinning off the chuck...

In trying to answer my own question backchannel, I did some research and found photos of rear toolpost setups. Quite a few 9x20 owners simply purchased an extra AXA toolpost-- Phase II apparently the favorite-- and built a mount to run it from the rear with cutoff tools upside down.

I needed the mobile shop as we could only test the equipment in the regions that we were needed to acheive approval, for example, when we wanted European certification it meant we were required to test in the European Union, If the testing wasn't going well and we needed a different variation of fuel injector or some such device I needed to be able to make it, also for the fitting of instrumentation into combustion chambers and that sort of thing, the workshop was invaluable, we also had full engine building facilities (except block machine work) as we needed to strip and rebuild test engines on the fly...Incidentally my Avatar is one of my early fuel injectors, I always loved art deco science fiction, I suppose that much is obvious from the Avatar.

Sounds like you have an awesome set of machining skills. And thanks for the explanation of your Avatar. It's always interesting to hear why they are chosen.

They were interesting times, loads of stress, massive hours, Coming home to a five star Sheraton hotel in the expensive bit of London after working 14 hours in a machine shop in a field, fifty miles away, impossible to put into words.

Certainly something I have never experienced!

...too many years machining teaches you all sorts of tricks, one of those is to mount a second champher tool on top of the main turning tool, but hanging out from the left side and upside down usually under the first screw of the four way toolpost, when you need to champher, just reverse the spindle and move the tool in to clean the edges up because you dont need to unclamp any of the toolpost parts your main tool is still set true to the DRO or dials, so it's easier than turning the toolpost onto two or more positions the champher tool can be made from a piece of "flatish" HSS and has a simple 90 degree point with lots of rake and lots of clearence, so it cuts very cleanly, enen an old piece of file works well if you keep the speed down it will last for a long time and costs nothing, the flatter the tool the smaller the hole in which you can champher.

Excellent information. Anyway you could fly over the pond and do a little tutoring! It would be great having someone with such vast experience at your side to teach you the tricks of the trade. At any rate, we have this forum and thanks so much for taking the time to make such insightful observations and passing along your hard-earned knowledge.

If you think of any other tips or hints, please post them.

I'm curious if you have a home shop, or are you burned out from too many years in the field?

Thanks again.

Ken


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## KenS (Nov 30, 2011)

Bill Gruby said:


> Have you found out if any mods have been done to this lathe yet? Do you have any pictures of it? This post can go on for a long time as there are many mods that can be done to improve the performance of this lathe in the "ruff."



Billy,

You wanted "ruff," you got "ruff."   =:-0

Going back to my initial post and before anyone jumps me with warnings about it being trashed, I acknowledge this is going to be a project. On Monday Enco allowed you to stack a 20 percent off Cyber Monday coupon on top of free shipping. So I could have bought a new Jet BD-920W with stand for just over $1,200. I am still in negotiation for this one and don't know if I can get at a price where I can afford to resurrect it.

This lathe was used in the real world production without modification. Only the three-jaw chuck was used. The four-jaw chuck and faceplate are still in cosmoline, and the steady- and follower rests have never been used, and the dead center is still wrapped in brown paper.

During the negotiation I've been rethinking the entire thing. I already have several projects-- including making a stand for my mill-- and I don't know if I want another one. If Grizzly had free shipping, I would be really tempted to move up to a G0602 which weighs in at about $1,200 + another $100 for shipping, but is a much more substantial lathe. At this stage I'd really like to begin making some chips, but I am also drawn to the satisfaction that comes with restoring a rusty derelict tool without a major investment.

If you want some inspiration about rescuing rusty metal from oblivion, take a gander here: 

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=20929.0

There are are some decent deals on old Atlas and Craftsman 10- and 12-inch lathes in my area (sadly, none with a quick-change gear box), but worrying about Zamak gear sets and being at the mercy of eBay parts suppliers doesn't sound like much fun.

Sorry to ramble, but I sure there are others here who've found themseives where I am.

Thanks for asking and I also hope Rickabilly's back shows some improvement.

Ken


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## KenS (Dec 1, 2011)

Rickabilly said:


> ...I spent no money on them apart from cleaning products and in the case of the Lathe a pint or so of hammered finish paint, All I did was strip and clean them and they are great machines with little wear and they both draw loads of attention from visitors.



Rick,

The lathe is particularly inspiring. And especially thanks for the photos.

What kind of cleaning solution do you recommend? I see all kinds of suggestions: mineral spirits, kerosene, citrus cleaners, WD40, etc.?

Ken


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## KenS (Dec 1, 2011)

Rickabilly said:


> ...if I have one "trick" it is using concentrated Phosphoric acid and Scotchbrite pads on the really rusty parts,...



Does the acid work on sensitive areas such as ways?


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## Tony Wells (Dec 1, 2011)

Phosphoric acid is the base ingredient in Naval Jelly I believe. If it's really rust, and not just patina, you can use it on ways. Patina should just be left alone.


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## KenS (Dec 8, 2011)

Rickabilly said:


> I thought I'd pop some photos of my 9 x 20 on here...



Thanks Rick. You were absolutely correct about the Jet having not been properly cleaned, but put directly into service with much of the original protective coating left on it. What looked like rust in the photos, was oil and protectant. After a personal inspection, I have decided to let this one pass. I was surprised to see how small the lathe was. And for a couple hundred dollars more than the asking price, I can buy a new G4000 from Grizzly (without the stand, but the factory 9x20 stand is much too short for me) delivered to my door.

However, I am now leaning toward a Grizzly G0602 10x22 which, at almost twice the weight of the 9x20, but only a couple hundred dollars more in price, strikes me as a much more substantial lathe. Maybe some owners could give us a comparison of these two types of lathes-- a 9x20 vs. a 10x22.

It seems in our three-state region that the used lathe market has dried up-- especially for lathes with quick-change gear boxes. I have been looking for months. Last week I looked at an old Atlas whose Zamac gears were quite literally crumbling and the owner wouldn't budge from his $500 asking price. The only accessories were a broken 5-inch three-jaw chuck, and a rusty old four-jaw-- no chuck keys included. Also, no change gears and the motor was broken. I don't mind a project, but I do mind a money pit: $125 for change gears; $200 for a new three-jaw chuck and backplate; and anywhere from $50 to $280 for a back (bull) gear; $100 for miscellaneous other gears and other parts... the list keeps growing and I still don't have a motor to make chips. This is quite typical of what I've been running into.

At any rate, I have really enjoyed and learned from this discussion, the suggestions offered, and the photos.

Ken


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