# Taper attachment



## mickri (Feb 18, 2018)

Some of my upcoming projects will require me to turn a taper.  So I have been looking into lathe taper attachments.  Everyone that I found requires you to make a contraption that hangs off the back side of the lathe except for one which uses a wheel attached to the crossslide turned by a taunt wire.  Don't know if it is kosher to include a link to another site so I copied the post that describes this taper attachment.

Here's a simple taper attachment that is easy to make. It uses a taut wire wrapped around a 
specified wheel which is attached to the cross-slide lead screw. The wire is attached to the 
lathe bed by means of two stand-offs. This, of course, works for inside, outside, long, or 
short taper turning.

Plans for this taper attachment were published by the Home shop Machinist:

Title: An Accurate Taper Attachment for Under $5.00.
Author: J.O. Barbour, Jr.
Issue: March-April 1986 Page 20


How it works: A wheel is machined to an exact diameter needed for a certain taper. This 
wheel is attached to the cross slide lead screw. Then a taut wire is wrapped once around 
this wheel and fastened parallel to the lathe bed by stand-offs (see photo below).

When the carriage moves it will automatically turn the cross slide in proportion to the 
machined wheel...thereby giving the correct taper. The wire doesn't have to be very strong 
since most of the stresses are on the cross slide lead screw or carriage. The main thing is 
that the wire wrapped around the wheel must not slip...which one wrap should accomplish when 
wire is drawn taut.

I think this works great, especially for tapers that need to be made over and over again. 
Set up time would only involve the time necessary to attach the wheel and pull the wire 
taut.

All parts don't need to be made with any particular accuracy with the exception of the 
wheel. This wheel needs to machined very accurately (minus one wire diameter less than 
calculated diameter). This is very easily accomplished using the lathe and micrometer. Of 
course, the stand-offs need to be strong - but that's not a problem!

Here's an example: Lets say a 1/8" taper per foot is desired and the wire being used is 
0.020" music wire. Since the taper is being cut on both sides, the cross slide only needs go 
1/16" per foot of carriage travel. If the lathe has a 10 TPI lead screw then the wheel needs 
to turn 62.5 percent of a revolution in 12". This means that the circumference needs to be 
0.625 X 12 = 7.500" then divide by pi to get a diameter of 2.387". So the final diameter of 
the wheel will need to be 2.387 - 0.020 = 2.367".

As one can see, this is very handy as it doesn't depend on the length of material the taper 
is to be cut on, as it would be on a tailstock offset, just the taper per foot.



One additional note:

For the wire "clamp" on the stand-offs (which is not part of the article) a small drill 
chuck was used. This chuck sells for about $8.00 and can be obtained at most hardware 
stores. The chuck comes threaded for a standard size and the bolt used is threaded for about 
three inches. Flats were also machined on each side of the bolt so one can use a wrench to 
hold the chuck from turning when tightening the wire. In addition, the bolt has a small hole 
drilled thru its entire length for excess wire to pass. This setup works great to achieve 
the proper tautness of the wire so it will not slip on the precision machined wheel.

Have any of you guys used this type of taper attachment?  What do you think?


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## cathead (Feb 19, 2018)

Personally, I would build up a conventional type taper attachment or use the tail stock offset method.  If the wire taper method
was really great, you would see it on commercial machines.


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## dlane (Feb 19, 2018)

My lathe has a taper attachment, but a lot of folks use the tailstock offset, or a boring head in the tailstock.
But let us know how that works out , with pics ,


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## mickri (Feb 19, 2018)

I have tried to find pictures with no success so far.  The pictures with the post that I copied were no longer visible.  There was a thread about it on Practical Machinist.  Their main concern was if it would be accurate enough to do morse tapers and the small size of the wheel to do tapers over 1/2" per foot.  Again no photos.  I'll try to contact the man who was using it to get some photos.


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## Jimsehr (Feb 19, 2018)

Here is one I made cutting a taper on my Logan. It swings on a base plate . After I have set it to a taper I drill thru the top and bottom plate and use an 1/8 pin so that 
I can return to that taper later if I want to cut it again. For my Logan spindle taper I stamped a letter   l   Next to that hole. Next to a Morse taper I stamp a  M1,M2 or whatever taper it is so that I can return to that taper by pinning with a 1/8 inch pin. 
I built it to fit on my production cross slide but you could make it fit any cross slide.  

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ObZJGeo67hyuSsbP2


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## mickri (Feb 19, 2018)

I like your taper attachment but it would be too short for my projects.  The taper on one project needs to be around 6" long and the other projects will require a taper length of around 21".
I have sent an email off the man who posted the wheel taper attachment I referenced above.


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## markba633csi (Feb 19, 2018)

I think it's a great idea for those of us who turn tapers very occasionally on machines that never had a taper attachment offered
Mark


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## mickri (Feb 19, 2018)

I agree Mark.  The tapers that I want to turn just have to look nice.  I am not trying to make a morse taper that has to be spot on with little room for error.  Still waiting for a response to my email. 
My first project is to do what is known as growlerizing the axle shafts on my 1966 Midget.  Midget axles have a stress point where the outboard edge of the spider gear in the differential bears on the axle shaft.  This stress point causes the axles shafts to snap at this point.  Growlerizing the axle relieves the stress point.  What you do is measure in 1 inch from the end of the axle and then turn the axle down to the depth of the splines for about 4 inches.  You then taper the next 6 inches back to the original diameter.   This is what I want a taper attachment for.




The top axle is a stock axle.  The bottom axle is a growlerized axle.


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## markba633csi (Feb 19, 2018)

Growlerizing! I love it!  I just learned my new thing for the day
Mark


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## mickri (Feb 19, 2018)

The name growlerizing came from a midget racer down in OZ whose handle was Growler.  This was a known fix in the race circles for quite some time but not known to the masses.  Growler spread it far and wide on internet forums devoted to midgets and sprites.


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## mickri (Feb 20, 2018)

Was looking at my Craftsman 12x36 lathe this morning and found that I have access on the backside to the end of the cross slide screw.  I am going to try to make a mandrel that screws onto the cross slide screw that I can then attach different size wheels to.  In stead of using wire I am going to use small diameter line used on boats.  These lines are stronger than steel with less stretch and are designed to go around sheaves in blocks.  I am going to make the wheels wider and try to create a threaded surface so the lines don't tend to cross over each other.  The line will wrap around the wheel two times.  With all the other projects and stuff I have going on it is going to be several weeks or longer before I can get this done.   I'll take pictures and do a complete report when I get it finished.


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## markba633csi (Feb 20, 2018)

I follow you, you are referring to multi-strand stainless steel cable sometimes called "aircraft cable"?  That's what I would use too, around 1/16"


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## mickri (Feb 20, 2018)

I thought about the small 1x7 or 1x19 SS cables but think that the synthetic lines like dynema and other brands would work better.  They are more flexible, have less stretch and are designed to run in small blocks.  The small SS cables are flexible and can turn corners but aren't really designed to make complete circles.  Especially small circles.  Sorry for the boating terms.  I have been actively sailing for almost 50 years up and down the coasts of California and Mexico.
1x19 and 1x7 refers to the number of strands in the cable.  1x7 is more flexible than 1x19 but has more stretch.  Neither like going around a complete circle, especially small circles which will deform the wire.


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## mickri (Mar 16, 2018)

With my spacer project completed I will now concentrate on this.  The acme screw on my cross slide appears to be 1/2" x 10 tpi left hand thread.  I don't have a acme thread gage and the space on the cross slide is too narrow get an actual measurement on the diameter of the screw.  My lathe is a craftsman 12x36 .  Can anybody confirm to me that this is a 1/2" x 10 tpi LH?

Here is my plan.  I will put a coupler nut on the end of the cross slide screw and screw around a 6" piece of acme threaded rod into the coupler nut.  I might have to turn down the coupler nut to fit in the cross slide.  The end of the cross slide is open and there are two existing threaded holes on the end of the cross slide.  Holes look to be 1/4 x 20 tpi.  I will make a plate to cover the end with a hole for the threaded rod to extend through, secured by bolts into the existing holes.   I will take another coupler nut and turn it to be a flange nut.  This flange nut will act as a bearing to keep everything in alignment and provide a flat surface for the wheel to sit against.  I will use a nut to lock the wheel against the flange nut.

In looking at the backside of the lathe there is an existing bolt roughly level with the lathe bed that can be used to anchor one end of the line.  The far end of the lathe bed does not have any existing bolts that I can use.  I will have to make a stand off to anchor this end of the line.  I will do a rough sketch of what I am thinking and take some pictures of the cross slide and the back side of the lathe.

If the cross side screw is 1/2 x 10 tpi McMaster Carr has the nuts and threaded acme rod that I need to make this. 

Any and all comments and suggestions are welcome.


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## mickri (Mar 17, 2018)

This is a rough sketch of the end of my cross slide.  It is not to any particular scale.




Here I have added the taper attachment.  The only thing you can't see in this sketch is the flange nut/bearing.  It is hidden behind the wheel.  Again not to any particular scale.  Just representative of what I am thinking would work.


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## magicniner (Mar 17, 2018)

"Spider Gear", is that like a splined end on a shaft, but somehow different?


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## jwmelvin (Mar 17, 2018)

Why do you want the extension, to which the wheel is secured, to be threaded? Why not just a shaft connected to the leadscrew with a coupler?


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## mickri (Mar 17, 2018)

You have to use different diameter wheels for different tapers.   Although by adding purchase on the line going around the wheel you would change the taper.  For example if you had a wheel that gave a taper of 1/8" per foot with no purchase by adding a 2 to 1 purchase the the taper would increase to 1/4" per foot.  3 to 1 would be 3/8" per foot and 4 to 1 would be 1/2" per foot.  Without the mechanical advantage of the purchase the wheel keeps getting smaller and smaller as the taper per foot increases.  At some point in time you have to add purchase to the system.  Also having the wheels as large as possible decreases any error in the amount of taper due to an error in the diameter of the wheel.  When I get to making the wheels I will do the math to determine what wheel size and purchase to use for a given taper.  I'll leave that for another day.

 The shaft has to be threaded at the wheel end in order to secure the wheel to the shaft and to be able to use different size wheels.  You could just thread the end of the shaft where the wheel goes and attach the shaft to the the lead screw with a non-threaded coupler with set screws.  The set screws would damage the threads on the end of the lead screw over time and I don't want that to happen.

Your suggestion would be simpler to make.  Thinking about it I would still use a threaded coupler to thread onto the lead screw and slip the shaft into the other half of the coupler.  The shaft could be secured to the coupler with a set screw.  This would eliminate the threaded flange nut which also acts as a bearing.  The smooth shaft wouldn't need a bearing and I could thread the end of the shaft to any convenient thread size. 

 I like your suggestion.  Thanks


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## jwmelvin (Mar 17, 2018)

Why not attach your various wheels with a key and set screw instead of a threaded nut? Or a dimple and a setscrew (e.g. shallow hole and dog point setscrew)?


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## British Steel (Mar 17, 2018)

magicniner said:


> "Spider Gear", is that like a splined end on a shaft, but somehow different?



The (bevel) gears on the end of the halfshafts, that deliver power from the differential's (bevel) planet gears to them - with the reduction in the diff' and the radius of the wheel/tyre, there's a lot of torque between them and the halfshafts under Firm Acceleration. 
I think the sudden change in section where the flange and halfshaft meet is where they snap? so reducing the section of the halfshaft (the taper) lets it act as a torsion spring and relieves some of the stress at the stress-raiser?

Not on Spridgets, but I've seen halfshafts with 3/4 of a turn of twist on them before they've broken - one was from a schoolfriend's Morris Minor with a supercharged 1275 Spridget engine...

Dave H. (the other one)


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## magicniner (Mar 17, 2018)

British Steel said:


> The (bevel) gears on the end of the halfshafts



Half-shafts don't have gears on the ends, they have splines, these fit into sockets in the differential, half-shaft splined ends are not driven directly by any gear.


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## British Steel (Mar 17, 2018)

I sit corrected... So power is transferred to the halfshafts from the diff, via a gear carrier with the bevel gear at its inboard end, and the stress raisers are the cuts for the splines, I take it? So the spline effectively goes into a gear...? Wouldn't be a diff' otherwise?

Dave H. (the other one)


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## mickri (Mar 17, 2018)

Lots of confusion on the parts in a midget rear axle.  Here is a parts diagram.




The axle haft shafts, #29 or #30, have male splines on the inboard end.  These splines fit into the gear, #20, which  has female splines.  Because of flex in the axle housing the upper edge of the outer edge of the gear, #20, bears on the splines of the haft shafts.  This creates a stress point on the haft shafts and the half shafts typically break at this point.   The haft shafts rarely fail at the flange on the outer end of the haft shaft.  When you growlerize  the haft shaft as described in a previous post the outboard end of the gear no longer bears on the haft shaft eliminating the stress point.


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## magicniner (Mar 18, 2018)

This photo makes it easy to see both the relationship between shaft and gears and also the differential function 
	

		
			
		

		
	



The author's arrow is pointing at the gear with which the shaft engages.


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## mickri (Mar 18, 2018)

I am going to order a coupler nut from McMaster Carr later today.  I looked at the lead screw again and as best as I can tell without an acme thread gage is that the lead screw is 1/2 x 10 tpi LH.  If I am wrong on this would someone please let me know.  My lathe is a craftsman 12x36.  I have some 1/2" StarBoard on hand which I will use for the end plate  StarBoard is polyurethane plastic that I have used on my boats.  If this taper attachment works to my satisfaction I will replace the StarBoard with steel.  I am going to use a 3/4" shaft and will turn down one end to 1/2" to fit into the coupler nut.  I will drill and tap the coupler nut and the shaft for a screw.  Either 1/4x20 or 10x24.  The other end I will turn down to 3/8 and thread for a 3/8x16 nylock nut.   This will leave a shoulder on the shaft for the wheel to fit against when tightened with a nut.   I have a piece of 3" diameter aluminum on hand and will make a wheel out of this.

So that's my plan of action at this point.  I could use some help on the math to calculate the diameter of the wheel.


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## Tozguy (Mar 18, 2018)

Back in the 60s I used to carry a spare half axle in the boot of my Bugeye Sprite because they were not very strong and sometimes had to change it at the side of the road to get home again. Then I shoehorned a 1500 engine into the Sprite. The rear axle splines were cut off and a stronger spline from a scrapped transmission was welded on. I had it done and don't know which transmission the stronger splines came from but they never broke after that.
Growlerizing makes sense to avoid concentrating stress at the end of the spline but does it make the axle stronger?


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## mickri (Mar 18, 2018)

When MG went to the 1275 cc engine in 1967 they also changed the steel in the half shafts from EN7 to EN17.   I have put a 1969 rear axle in my midget so I have the stronger half shaft.  From what I have read on the various midget forums is that it was not that the axles weren't strong enough but were too stiff.  Growlerizing allows the haft shaft to flex a little and eliminates the hard stress point.  A late model haft shaft is supposedly good for 100 hp or a little more.  Growlerizing increases this to around 150 hp.  I am going to swap a toyota engine with 75 to 90 hp which I might modify up to around 100 hp.


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## Tozguy (Mar 18, 2018)

Sounds like you are having fun. Makes me wonder why the factory did not pick up on concept and  'Growlerize' OEM axles at some point.


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## mickri (Mar 18, 2018)

I don't know if growlerizing was known during the production run of these cars.  Also these cars were low end price point cars and growlerizing would have required extensive machining adding to the cost of these cars.   The original bugeye sprites had round rear wheel arches which allowed owners to fit much larger wheels and tires.  This contributed to haft shaft breakage.  Rumor is one of the reasons MG changed to the square rear wheel arch was to prevent owners from doing this.  It was cheaper to change the stamped steel rear fenders than to make stronger half shafts.


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## Tozguy (Mar 18, 2018)

The principal behind Growlerizing is not new. It has been used extensively for bolts and screws in high stress situations like connecting rod bearing caps and cylinder head screws for a long time now.
In post no.27 there is mention of upgrades by the factory and by then the R&D types must have known about that option.


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## mickri (Mar 25, 2018)

Getting started with this project.  The coupler nut arrived Friday while I was out of town.  Today I found some aluminum and steel flat stock in my scrap bin.  Any preference in using aluminum or steel for the end plate?
  I have thought of another way to lock the shaft into the coupler nut.  The coupler nut is 1/2 x 10 tpi LH acme.  I thought about tapping half of the coupler nut with 1/2 x 13 RH standard thread.  I would think that this would lock the coupler to the lead screw and the shaft when I tighten the shaft against the lead screw and having opposing threading would keep everything locked together.  Is this a dumb idea?
I am still trying to figure out the math to calculate the diameter of the wheel.  Info I found and posted above used a 10 tpi lead screw as an example but didn't include any of the actual math.   The original article probably included the math.  I have not found a copy online that I could study.  The cross slide lead screw on my lathe is also 10 tpi.  I have tried to back into his answer and the only thing I come up with is that he multiplied the taper per foot by 10.  This seems too simplistic to me.  I might have to make a wheel and measure how far the cross slide moves in one foot.  Can anybody help me out with this?


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## jwmelvin (Mar 25, 2018)

mickri said:


> Can anybody help me out with this?


I believe this is how I would calculate it, using 1/8" in/ft taper:

taper_ft (in_x/ft_z) = 0.125
lead screw pitch (turns_x/in_x)= 10
taper in inches (in_x/in_z) = taper_ft/12 = 0.01042
lead screw turns per carriage motion (turns_x/in_z) = pitch * taper = 0.1042
drive wheel circumference (in_z/turn_x) = 1 / (pitch * taper) = 9.6
drive wheel diameter (in) = 1 / (pi * pitch * taper) = 3.056"
 I included some intermediate steps to hopefully explain better. The only thing, I think, is that the diameter calculated is the wheel plus one wire diameter. Happy to correct if I overlooked something. If I were you, I'd put it in a spreadsheet as I did.


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## mickri (Mar 26, 2018)

Thanks so much for your analysis.  I think that I have finally figured this out.  This is how I understand how to calculate the diameter of the wheel in simpler terms
10 tpi makes 10 revolutions for every inch of travel.  1 revolution equals .1" of travel.  1/16" of travel equals .0625" or 62.5% of one revolution. 1/8" of travel equals .125" or 125% of one revolution.  If the circumference of the wheel is 12 inches (3.82" diameter) the wheel would make one complete revolution for every 12 inches of carriage travel and the cross slide would move .1"  If the movement of the cross slide is less than .1" then the wheel needs to be bigger than 12 inches in circumference and if it is greater than .1 inches the circumference of the wheel needs to be smaller than 12 inches.  For 1/16" taper per foot  12" would have to be equal to 62.5% of one revolution.  12/.625 equals 19.2" circumference and a 6.112 diameter wheel.  For 1/8" taper per foot 12" would have to be equal to 125% of one revolution  12/1.25 equals 9.6" circumference and a 3.056 diameter.

This brings up the issue of how could the example in my original post which calculated a circumference of 7.5" and a diameter of 2.387" for 1/16" of taper per foot be so far off.  And brings into question did he every actually use this to cut a taper.  I tried sending him a private message on another forum and never got a response.   Does anybody have a copy of the 1986 March/April issue of the Home Shop Machinist?  That might shed some light on the calculations to determine the diameter of the wheel.  This method of cutting tapers was discussed on the PM website including the math to calculate the diameter of the wheel.  I'll try to find it again.


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## jwmelvin (Mar 26, 2018)

Oh, of course I was off by a factor of two because I considered only cross-slide motion of the taper (radius) but the tool removes from both sides of a spinning work. So you want a cross-slide motion of 1/16 in/ft to cut a taper of 1/8 in/ft.


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## mickri (Apr 4, 2018)

Getting closer on my taper attachment.  The trial wheel is done.  All that is left is drilling and taping the coupler nut to hold the shaft to the lead screw and threading the shaft for the nuts to hold the wheel in place.   I also need to decide on what I am going to make the end plate on the cross slide out of.  Using a temporary wood block for now.  Took pictures of everything sitting in place so you could get a visual of how it all fits together.  Used the bright lime green line so you could see it.  I have other line that is smaller and stronger but might not have shown up good in the pictures  Might get it done tomorrow evening.


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## mickri (Apr 4, 2018)

This afternoon I checked the rotation to see whether the line needs to feed over the top of the wheel as shown in the pictures or under the wheel to get the correct rotation.  Turns out that the line needs to feed under the wheel.   I threaded the outer diameter of the wheel to 8 tpi to keep the line from overriding itself.  10 tpi would have been better.  I have also come to realize that having threads won't work for more than two revolutions because the line will feed off the wheel as the wheel turns.  I won't thread any other wheels that I make.  Instead I will have a lip that extends up to keep the line on the wheel. 

I am also going to try casting a wheel out fiberglass like I have done to make sheaves for blocks on my sailboat.  It was time consuming for me at least to machine the wheel out of aluminum bar stock.  A molded wheel would be closer to final dimension and hopefully only need a small amount of machining to finish it.

Forum member Uglydog and I have been exchanging emails about using gears to drive the cross slide lead screw.  If the line and wheel doesn't work out I may try making a geared taper attachment.  Here is a sketch of my current thoughts on how to use gears.




The rack is 10 tpi.   The rack drives a 40 tooth gear that doesn't show in the sketch   The 40 gear is on the same shaft as the lower left gear in the sketch and both gears turn together.  The lower left gear through an idler drives the upper right gear which is connected to and turns the cross slide lead screw.  I worked out some of the gearing needed for taper angles up to 4 degrees and tapers for MT0 to MT4.  The biggest gear is a 180.  That can probably be reduced in size by making the idler a compound gear.  I haven't tried to work that out yet.   The arm that is sticking up pivots so the idler can mesh with the other gears.   The pivot arm could also point down instead of up if there is enough room to do this.
Anyway just another way to do this.


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## tertiaryjim (Apr 5, 2018)

I had thought ,a bit, of using gears to drive the carriage but with several years of projects already on the list I didn't fully think it through.
  What I considered was that they could provide a more uniform travel when cutting threads.
The accuracy of precision lead screws is expensive to produce by grinding and even the middle grades that will hold 0.001/ft are out of my income range.
This use of cable and wheels is perhaps a better idea. I cant see why it wouldnt be a better for both tapers and threading so long as it's positive in the high force needed to cut threads. That might just mean two or three wraps of the cable and a stronger cable to avoid stretch. The system could use step down gearing and larger wheel diameters to get the needed force.
The larger the line, wire, or cable diameter ,the larger the diameter of the wheels must be.
I haven't a clue how to calculate force to cut 4TPI or any other thread.
Still, the thought of a constant feed system that wouldn't mirror errors of the lead screw is interesting and a tool post grinder could be used for the final passes to produce a nice accurate screw as long as your carriage can travel.

Wire or cable are better choices for a drive line as its much easier/more accurate to use their diameters in calculations.
Even the best rope will flatten when wound around the sheave so figuring diameter is trial and error and it won't be constant.
The force for turning tapers isn't going to cause the rope to stretch but higher forces are involved for threading.
The biggest problem I see in using gears for tapers is the number of gears needed would be expensive.
I think the system your trying now is cheepest and best.
I would use wire or cable and the attach points of the line shoudn't  produce  a force up or down on the carriage.


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## mickri (Apr 5, 2018)

This is just for cutting tapers.  Not intended to cut threads.  The big problem with using wire or line is that as the taper gets larger the size of the wheel decreases dramatically.  To overcome this you have to add purchase to the line.  Wire does no like to turn complete circles.  There are now small diameter lines used in sailing that are stronger than steel and have less stretch.  And I think that it would grip the wheel better with less tension.  Some of the new high tech fishing lines may also work.  Their diameters are so small that it may not need to be adjusted for.
The tapers that I intend to cut are not critical.  They just need to be smooth and even.  So my wheel diameters can be off a little and still be ok.  Hope to turn a couple of test tapers next week.


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## Kernbigo (Apr 5, 2018)

you are over thinking this , this is what i use , ball bearing center in headstock , and off set center in tailstock, use a face plate and cut taper between centers


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## mickri (Apr 5, 2018)

I totally agree with you that I am over thinking this.  I could have bought a boring head to fit in the tail stock and a live center to fit the boring head. Or I could just offset the tail stock.  I would have been good to go to turn any taper that I wanted to.  And I may end up doing that.  On the other hand I like intellectual challenges.  Figuring this out has been fun for me at nominal cost.  I am retired and have joined the swelling ranks of the independently poor.   Cost is a factor   I have also thought about making a fixture like in your picture.  I may try that too. 
As I like to say.  My plans are always cast in sand at low tide and subject to change.


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## mickri (Jul 17, 2018)

I have decided to abandon my taper attachment project.  Two main reasons.  The range of tapers that can be cut is very small without adding all sorts of pulleys  and lines running back and forth and I haven't been able firmly attach the shaft to the end of the cross slide lead screw.  I don't want to drill holes in the lead screw or have set screws mar the threads on the lead screw.   It was a great learning experience.  Time to move on.


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## markba633csi (Jul 17, 2018)

I would like to have a have a semi-cnc mod for my lathe to do tapers using a stepper and a dro- then you could dial in whatever taper you wanted


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## Tozguy (Jul 26, 2018)

Hi Mickri, was thinking of you today when I was cutting a long taper using a boring head in the TS.


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## mickri (Jul 26, 2018)

Tozguy thanks for the thought.  When I get to turning long tapers I will use a boring head in the tailstock.


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