# New New New...to Machining Metal



## Bear (Oct 3, 2016)

I recently acquired a Harbor Freight mini mill.  I have wiped it down but haven't taken it appart.  I have no clue what vise will work with what I am looking to do.  I plan on doing a few 80% AR lowers.  I really enjoy working with my hands.  I have been using the drill press for a while but not getting nearly the results I'm looking for. 

I have read article after article recommending a belt drive and digital readout for the mill.  I am just happy as all getout that I have a mill even if it's not the best. 

Now I don't have a decent vise.  I have a dial indicator.  What do I need to do before I start playing with metal?

Sorry, I'm pretty certain the mill is an X2 model.


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## Uglydog (Oct 3, 2016)

Bear,
Welcome to HM!
You've entered a great place.
I don't know anything about AR Lowers. But, there are people here that do.
Nor do I know anything about mini mills.

Do you have your mill powered up?
Do you know how to lube her?
Does the spindle turn easily (machine off). Or are the belts to tight/loose?
Before you start purchasing anything work through the manual. 
Know and understand how each dial and knob works. 
Inventory your tooling and think about what your short and long term goals are.
Yes, those goals will evolve. But, based on what you currently know and believe take a careful assessment of where you are.

Consider checking back here frequently and update us. It's likely that someone has experience with both ARs and your mini!

Daryl
MN


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## Bear (Oct 3, 2016)

Uglydog said:


> Bear,
> Welcome to HM!
> You've entered a great place.
> I don't know anything about AR Lowers. But, there are people here that do.
> ...





Uglydog said:


> Bear,
> Welcome to HM!
> You've entered a great place.
> I don't know anything about AR Lowers. But, there are people here that do.
> ...



Thanks for the welcome Daryl,

I have the mill mounted but haven't powered it up.  As far as lubricating this machine, I am not sure what needs it other than gears and table.  I have read that the mill should be disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated.  White litium for the gears and motor oil for the table.  Tooling I have a few 2flute endmill bits.  I have a table vise for my drill press but I have the impression it isn't even close to accurate enough for milling.  

I am super pumped about getting started.  All the threads I have read are super informative.

Cheers,
Brian


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## Eddyde (Oct 3, 2016)

Welcome aboard Bear,
Please send us some pictures of your mill, it will be easier to know what you might need.


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## Cobra (Oct 3, 2016)

I would have a look at Little Machine Shop for a vise and then follow with other tools as you need. 
The other place to look is CDCO. 
Welcome to the hobby. 
Jim


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## Bear (Oct 3, 2016)

Thanks Jim,  Can't wait to get started.

Brian


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## Bear (Oct 3, 2016)




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## Hawkeye (Oct 3, 2016)

Brian, somewhere along the line, you should pick up an optical tachometer, preferably on sale. When I started out in milling, I wrecked quite a few endmills by running them too fast for the materials and conditions. Once I could check the RPM, things improved a lot.


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## catsparadise (Oct 4, 2016)

Hi Brian,

I have a similar model mill (SX2 - with the belt drive, but otherwise much the same). I bought a collet chuck to hold the mills (I use ER-32). I suggest you get something like that before you start milling. Lots of threads on here about not using a Jacobs chuck to hold mills. Also, get yourself a milling vice - a vice off a drill press is probably not going to hold the workpiece quite as well. A cheap set of parallels also come in handy (you can always upgrade later). Lastly, use cutting oil when you're milling. I wore out a few mills when I started and the advice on here was to do just that. Mills have been staying sharp much longer now.

Whilst you're waiting for the bits to arrive make sure the table dovetails are cleaned and lubed and well adjusted. Mine came with a banana shaped gib which was impossible to adjust over the full travel so one of the first tasks for my mill was to make a better one.

Rob


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## Uglydog (Oct 4, 2016)

Bear,
Do you have a collet system?
Looks like there is a drill chuck on her. 
Drill chucks are great for downward pressure like drills. 
Not usually for lateral pressures like end mills.

Please show us you DP vise. Occasionally people end up mounting mill vises to DP.
It may actually be a high end vise. 

Daryl
MN


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## T Bredehoft (Oct 4, 2016)

Just a suggestion, place some scrap Formica  or enamel covered Masonite against the dry wall behind your mill. coolant/oil will soon badly discolor the drywall, can be wiped from the others. You'll want to be able to clean it occasionally.


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## Bear (Oct 4, 2016)

I am looking at the LMS bundle withe the vise and collets.  I suppose the belt drive will be in the works for longevity of the mill.  I have removed all the packing grease I can find but are there more locations? 

How do I remove the drill arbor and install the collet?

Thanks everyone for all the input!!!


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## jpfabricator (Oct 4, 2016)

Look locally for your consumables.
Most hardware stores carry "Oateys" dark cutting oil for threading pipes in the plumbing isle.
Kerosene or WD40 works for aluminum.
Brass  and bronze need no fluids.
HSS woodworking bits such as countersinks will work if used gently.
Welcome aboard!

Sent from somwhere in east Texas by Jake!


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## Cobra (Oct 4, 2016)

Removal of the drill arbor depends on the machine.  I would hope that there is a draw bar at the top of the spindle that you can loosen and then give a bit of a smack to knock the arbor loose.  The arbor is likely either a morse taper or an R8 taper.


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## TakeDeadAim (Oct 4, 2016)

Welcome! to both the forum and to the world of machining.  You can remove the drill chuck shank by removing the protective cover and accessing the draw bar.  I believe in the manual the cover is part 126 and the draw bar part A.  You should be able to do the 80% lowers on the machine, work slow and read the instructions well.  Most of all have fun!  all kinds of "gun stuff" you can make with a mill.  LMS is a good source for information and parts for these machines.  As far as cleaning goes, Im not sure how the good folks overseas apply that brown thick goop they ship them in but it seems to make its way everywhere.  I have found the best non toxic stuff to remove it is the purple degreaser sold at Auto Zone and a dozen other places.


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## Joncooey (Oct 5, 2016)

Hey Bear,

  welcome aboard.  I'm new here too; great site.
  One thing you should not do is get rid of your drill press.  You'll find that it still has some features that make it a valuable addition to your collection.  It probably has a longer throw than your mill (distance from the head to the table) which will come in handy.
  Also, along with a vice, look into getting yourself some table clamps.  In a nutshell, they can do all the things that your vice can't.
  Have fun making chips.

  Jon.


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## Hawkeye (Oct 6, 2016)

When you go to remove the drawbar, just loosen it about 1/4" and give it a few sharp hits with a hammer - brass is best. If you loosen the drawbar all the way first, the end threads will be mushed over. The more threads that are engaged, the longer everything will last.


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## Downunder Bob (Oct 7, 2016)

Uglydog said:


> Bear,
> Welcome to HM!
> You've entered a great place.
> I don't know anything about AR Lowers. But, there are people here that do.
> ...



Excellent advice, read the manual, then read it again. If are new to metal machining, try to book in a course at your local high school trade centre, depends what you have in your area. You really do have to learn to walk before you can run. 

Do not ever overload your machine, have patience take small cuts, understand how to select cutting speed.

Spend  a lot of time on this forum, ask questions. 

Good luck.


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## Bear (Oct 12, 2016)

Update,
I have cleaned and lubed the mill.
I just got a decent vise and an assortment of tooling from LMS.
Removed the drill chuck and installed the collet.

Question-Is the X-axis (front to back) supposed to be difficult to move i.e. The hand crank is tight even after loosening the lock handle?

I have two or three different types of lubricant for the aluminum. I have WD40, mineral oil, and a nonstaining cutting lubricant.  Which would be best and what would be a good application method?


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## Subwayrocket (Oct 12, 2016)

Make sure your table locks are loosened and the gib adjustment screws not too tight.  The X are usually in the front and the Y on the sides below the table .
This guy has a good 4 video series that covers alot of the basics . 



Go down the local scrap yard , get some aluminum cutoffs . Usually 50-55 cents a pound , good for initial practice and later for test cuts and building things . Get some steel there too .
When I got a mill , a machinist buddy said to avoid carbide tooling while learning , they break easier and cost more . You can find some HSS tooling cheap and if you want to cut harder material, M42 is still pretty cheap and very tough .
Keep an eye on Ebay for new old stock cutters , end mills , etc . I've used alot of oils I had in the garage as cutting oils , some I thinned out with kerosene .
If you get expensive items initially and make a mistake, drop an indicator or crash a tool then it's not as costly . You learn alot in a few months .
There are alot of good youtube channels and with different ways to do things.
Check out the youtube channels  mrpete222   ,  metal tips and tricks  ,  toms techniques  ,  keith rucker   and if you weld check out  weldingtipsandtricks 

Good luck with the mill.  And watch out , the mill will make you want a lathe !


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## Hawkeye (Oct 12, 2016)

When you're visiting a scrap yard, carry a small file and a small magnet. If the file won't cut the piece of steel you are looking at, neither will your tools. I've ended up with some hardened steel before I started checking. The magnet can help answer the odd question about a piece of unknown metal.


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## Falcody (Oct 16, 2016)

Just a tip on end mills. Look at the cutting end of the tool, if it doesn't have 2 flutes that meet in the center it can't be used to plunge cut.


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## Bear (Oct 17, 2016)

Just finished watching the Essential Machining Skills Videos.  I have a dial indicator that measures .000 inch but it is an up and down type.  I am guessing it isn't accurate enough.  I have been measuring with a micrometer, marking with a grease pencil, and cutting with an ax forever.  Time to start focusing on accuracy more.  I have made some rough cuts to get the feel for feed speed and what a smooth or rough cuts sounds like.  A tram and square setup is in the works before I try to tackle my intended project list which seems to be growing.  

I am greatfull to everyone who has posted thus far and look forward to any and all advice.  Thanks again!!!


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## coherent (Oct 18, 2016)

Welcome to the forum and machining. Sorry, but now you're gonna be hooked. Remember my post when in 10-20 yrs you add up how much you've spent since that "first" mill.  I've done a few 80% lowers on small mills and you should he fine on the HF mill. My only advice is to practice with it a bit first. This may sound silly, but just knowing which way the cut will be when you turn the wheel will avoid cutting errors when starting with a mill. Once it becomes second nature you'll have no problems. Most of all, have fun. Once you have a mill and a lathe, (or your second or third) you'll wonder how you could ever get by without them even as a hobbiest!


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## Subwayrocket (Oct 18, 2016)

Just start making simple little things from scrap .  Apply whats in those vids with Seat time.  "Seat time" has always been huge in anything complex that i've ever learned.    Tip---> There's alot of great youtube channels and great videos ...i've found myself watching too much video instead of making stuff...haha .   And as i mentioned before, I see alot of great tool deals on NOS lots on ebay and then I think to myself "someone could really use this" , pm me if you'd like anything I see forwarded to you . (Fyi, I dont sell on ebay) I often see quality USA NOS stuff for half price and sometimes 75% less than retail .  

The People on this forum are very helpful ...i've asked some VERY NOOB questions and no one laughed at me too much ...lol...everyone started somewhere !   ...and I mentioned before , start bringing your scrap to the small local scrap yards often . Get to know them, make friends if possible. They all react differently to "pickers" , but if you find one that's willing to let you pick some and buy outta the clip Aluminum bin then you're golden.  Scrap yards are a gold mine for metal, and not rusty junk , it's often cutoffs from small fab shop production runs...often brand new metal 50-55 cents a pound .  The pail below is about $20 ?  The Vise was also scrap steel price. Then you can go to town practicing and making stuff . If you were in Northeast PA i'd be glad to get you the hook up where I go , but arizona is a bit far ...haha .  Lastly , i'd work in aluminum a while and some mild steel learning ...I would avoid stainless a while . Good luck with it !
~Steve 
-------------------------------------


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## Downunder Bob (Oct 19, 2016)

Subwayrocket said:


> Just start making simple little things from scrap .  Apply whats in those vids with Seat time.  "Seat time" has always been huge in anything complex that i've ever learned.    Tip---> There's alot of great youtube channels and great videos ...i've found myself watching too much video instead of making stuff...haha .   And as i mentioned before, I see alot of great tool deals on NOS lots on ebay and then I think to myself "someone could really use this" , pm me if you'd like anything I see forwarded to you . (Fyi, I dont sell on ebay) I often see quality USA NOS stuff for half price and sometimes 75% less than retail .
> 
> The People on this forum are very helpful ...i've asked some VERY NOOB questions and no one laughed at me too much ...lol...everyone started somewhere !   ...and I mentioned before , start bringing your scrap to the small local scrap yards often . Get to know them, make friends if possible. They all react differently to "pickers" , but if you find one that's willing to let you pick some and buy outta the clip Aluminum bin then you're golden.  Scrap yards are a gold mine for metal, and not rusty junk , it's often cutoffs from small fab shop production runs...often brand new metal 50-55 cents a pound .  The pail below is about $20 ?  The Vise was also scrap steel price. Then you can go to town practicing and making stuff . If you were in Northeast PA i'd be glad to get you the hook up where I go , but arizona is a bit far ...haha .  Lastly , i'd work in aluminum a while and some mild steel learning ...I would avoid stainless a while . Good luck with it !
> ~Steve
> ...




Good advice, I went to my local steel merchant today, only  a small guy but he has quite a good scrap bin, pickd up a few good pieces $4 the lot, would probably have been $30 to $40 at normal price.

i normally go to a much larger place , but twice as
 far away, but he has no cheapies, even the scrap bin is only about 10 or 15% off.


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## tq60 (Oct 19, 2016)

Get some sharpie or marks a lot felt tip pens and pointed metal things like a sharp awl or sharpened drill rod.

Paint your target with the pen then scratch marks with the pointy scrube.

Make pointing bits as well.

This is simple in take a bad or broken cutter that fits in the collet that you are using and grind a point on it.

Place in a drill and hold against a grinder.

What this does is allows you to center on a mark.

Say you need to take a certian amount from an edge or drill exactly there.

Use pen to paint then scribe to mark the point for drilling hole or a line 1/2 the diameter of the bit away from the edge you need.

Place the pointed cutter in the mill and adjust table to place the point on your mark.

Now place cutter in and go.

Look for a DRO later and for now get a good dial indicator with long throw and a good magnetic holder system to allow yiu to measure table movement.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk


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## kingmt01 (Oct 24, 2016)

Contrasts on your mill. 

A few endmills will go a long ways as long as your using them right. I'd also suggest using a fly cutter. You can sharpen a piece of HSS or even use a cheep piece of brazed carbide in it. 

As far as cutting oil goes the best recipe I have found is 10% kerosene/90% motor oil for steel & 90% kerosene/10% oil for aluminium. I really use any cutting oil for steel & usually just grab some Dextron III for aluminum because it's cheap & quick since I don't have to mix it. For kerosene win I use it I add some lime stone powder to it a week before I start messing with it to take the smell away.

I'm glad you got a proper vise. I used a drill press vise for a while. I trued it on the table & it always did a good job while I was cutting. But one day I went to put a piece in the vise & the end just fell off from the stress. All I could think about was how I was glad it didn't give way while I was in the cut. It didn't take long to decide to work a real vise into the budget. 

Also keep a piece of aluminum wire by the mill. If you put it between your adjustable jaw & the work it will lock your piece in tight.


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## jbmauser (Oct 24, 2016)

I would be interested in speaking with you as your project moves forward.  I am thinking of working a 80% lower as well.  I recently bought a milling attachment for my vintage South Bend lathe and looking to buy an Anderson lower with their jig kit.  I figure I will use their jig for the critical side holes with my Commie built drill press and drill out the trigger well and use my lathe and attachment to mill and soothe the trigger group area.  I have a small opening to clamp the lower and I am concerned with pressure on an AL casting.  PM me if you wish to communicate as your project moves forward.


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