# 5C spin index improvement?



## rgray (Feb 1, 2013)

I have one of those import 5c spin indexers. It takes some torque to tighten the collet where I feel it will hold. The aluminum stop lock is not near enough so the degree wheel gets grabed and of course it slips and spins. 

I am attempting to use the indexer for drill sharpening so setting the drill flute to a certain spot is important.
So when tightening and the wheel rotates in means start all over.

I did a search for what others had done and found one post where the assembly was loctited in place. I feel that would work well but being unsure if the ring would ever need removed I came up with a plan to set screw it in place.
My original plan was to pin the ring to the arbor with a needle bearing from a u-joint....as I suspected I couldn't drill the arbor as it is hardened.
So I drilled an threaded for a 4-40 set screw in the ring. In the atempt to drill the arbor a mark was left....so I used a dremill with a carbide pointed bit to deepen and shape the divot to fit the 4-40 set screw.
The ring is then set in place and the set screw adjusted till it is in the divot but not pushing the ring away from the arbor. a light behind it helps to get this right.

The lock ring was then drilled and tapped for three 4-40 set screws that serve to lock it in place after it is tightened down onto the dividing ring.
Works well so far and seems to have a very tight hold on the dividing ring.
Sorry about the blurry pics.


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## GaryK (Feb 1, 2013)

rgray said:


> I have one of those import 5c spin indexers. It takes some torque to tighten the collet where I feel it will hold. The aluminum stop lock is not near enough so the degree wheel gets grabed and of course it slips and spins.
> 
> I am attempting to use the indexer for drill sharpening so setting the drill flute to a certain spot is important.
> So when tightening and the wheel rotates in means start all over.
> ...



That's interesting. I just got one of those this week used on ebay. I didn't want a Chinese one (i guess for good reason, huh) so I bought a beatup used one made in Japan.
Just cleaned it up and painted it and it looks god as new. 

The index ring and arbor are one piece.

When I tighten a collet I first pull out the index pin and put it into the hole through the locking screw and into a hole in the arbor to hold everything in place while tightening the collet.


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## rgray (Feb 1, 2013)

Very nice. Just shows you get what you pay for. 
Not having ever been around one I didn't know what to look for when purchasing one.
But I had to wonder if they just cheaped out building them.

The stop lock screw is hollow on mine and according to directions (posted by nelson) for a phase II spin index it is for oiling the arbor. I think I will drill a hole so I can use the pin to lock the arbor like yours.


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## GaryK (Feb 1, 2013)

rgray said:


> I think I will drill a hole so I can use the pin to lock the arbor like yours.



I make sure I tighten the screw before I start cranking on it. I don't want to bend my locking pin so I don't go over board tightening.

Gary


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## rgray (Feb 1, 2013)

I'm thinking maybe the locking pin should be a different size and use a pin other than the one supplied for the rotation. 
It probably is not a strong enough pin that comes with the index. And like you say...would hate to bend it.


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## Dataporter (Feb 3, 2013)

My Chinese spin indexer and it's tailstock have no holes in the base. 
Is there a reason for that? 
Is there any reason I shouldn't drill a couple holes to match the t-slots in my machine to make it easier to clamp it down?

Dave


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## GaryK (Feb 3, 2013)

Dataporter said:


> My Chinese spin indexer and it's tailstock have no holes in the base.
> Is there a reason for that?
> Is there any reason I shouldn't drill a couple holes to match the t-slots in my machine to make it easier to clamp it down?
> 
> Dave



All mill tables are not the same. Different spacings between the slots so holes would be hit and miss. No reason you couldn't add your own
holes to fit your table.

I bought my indexer used and it already had holes. I'm waiting for my new mill before I'll be able to see it they fit.
If they don't fit I'll just turn the holes into slots as needed.

Gary


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## Chrispy (Feb 3, 2013)

I think those spin indexers were originally designed for surface grinders - hence the sliding spindle and the lack of holes in the base. With a magnetic chuck you don't need holes.
Chrispy


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