# Reading compound angles



## Tuttle (Aug 18, 2017)

Hi I'm a new member so thanks for adding me to your group. And thanks in advance for suggestions. My South Bend 9 compound readings are hard to see, so I'm thinking of polishing the readings with abrasive paper so the lines stand out a bit more. Does anyone think this is a bad idea?


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## Ulma Doctor (Aug 18, 2017)

Hello Tuttle,
welcome to the forum!
i would try with fine abrasive and light oil or kerosene or a scotchbrite pad may do the trick as well
good luck!


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## kvt (Aug 18, 2017)

one of the other things you can do is get the black paint stick,   clean thngs off real well,   apply  and let dry into the marks,   Then polish the stuff,   It does not last a real long time but if done right it last a while.   I have done this on some tools so that I could see the lines etc.    They also have white for use on dark which I did on my Sherline to make things stand out.   If not, I have to use a large magnifying glass and light to see some of them.

Link for white one
https://www.amazon.com/Markal-Lacqu...8&qid=1503075663&sr=8-31&keywords=paint+stick


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## RandyM (Aug 18, 2017)

kvt said:


> one of the other things you can do is get the black paint stick,   clean thngs off real well,   apply  and let dry into the marks,   Then polish the stuff,   It does not last a real long time but if done right it last a while.   I have done this on some tools so that I could see the lines etc.    They also have white for use on dark which I did on my Sherline to make things stand out.   If not, I have to use a large magnifying glass and light to see some of them.
> 
> Link for white one
> https://www.amazon.com/Markal-Lacqu...8&qid=1503075663&sr=8-31&keywords=paint+stick



Prep is everything for long Gevity, as you dually noted Ken. I make sure that the item is well clean just like any other item I paint. Sometimes I will even give it a light bead blasting. I have the best luck with spray bombs rather than a paint stick. Also, if you can let the paint dry real well again as Ken has noted. I will hasten the process by putting the item in the sun or my oven to bake the paint, the harder the better. I will start with about 600 grit and then go from there if I need a better finish.

I too need the markings to stand out better for my aging eyes. The key to color for this stuff is contrast, white on dark or dark on white. I have not done this on my milling machine yet as the dials are very heavily stamped. It is the lighter markings that seem to be the issue.


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## kvt (Aug 18, 2017)

I was not going to mention the older and eyes as most of us are starting or have that problem.   At least I do not wear coke bottle bottoms.   Thank god for new plastics.


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## Ulma Doctor (Aug 18, 2017)

i used to highlight serial numbers and proof marks on my wartime rifles with regular white crayola crayons, and buff off the excess.
the markings really stood out against the blueing


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## 682bear (Aug 21, 2017)

Ulma Doctor said:


> i used to highlight serial numbers and proof marks on my wartime rifles with regular white crayola crayons, and buff off the excess.
> the markings really stood out against the blueing


 
On my old military rifles, I use a yellow carpenters crayon... it stands out well and looks good against the typical green parkerizing.

On a compound dial, I might use a very fine scotchbrite or 1500 grit paper dipped in oil... nothing very course...


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