# 1962 Clausing/Colchester lathe rebuild



## James K (Aug 4, 2020)

I'm rebuilding the machine after my father disassembled it and since passed away. I wasn't around when he took it apart so I don't know if there was an issue with it. All the parts are there and I'm beginning to assemble. Question: The main Spindle was removed with the front bearing pressed and seated on the shaft. The rear bearing was left in the race that is pressed into the gear head casting. Will I mess things up if I press out the rear bearing and race from the head casting to assemble on the spindle, then press the whole spindle and bearing back into the head casting? I guess I'm concerned with 

Any direction/advice is welcome. Thanks for reading and I'm sure there will be many more post's on this thread....

I attached 3 pictures to illistrate.


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## markba633csi (Aug 4, 2020)

Hi James, sorry about your Dad.  Probably would be a good idea to spin the bearings by hand and feel for any roughness.  Look at the bigger front bearing closely and see if you can see any wear on the rollers.  The bearings might be worn but still usable.
The spindle would be installed from the front (right) side of the headstock, then the smaller left end bearing is drawn into place with a puller arrangement made from a length of strong threaded rod and some large washers, nuts and a piece of tubing or pipe.  Look around and see if your Dad used something like that to pull the spindle out.
-Mark


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## Janderso (Aug 4, 2020)

Those are Gamet bearings. Probably over $3,000 to replace them last time I looked.
Extremely high quality and high precision.


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## James K (Aug 5, 2020)

Gentlemen, Thanks for the your response. I have inspected the bearings and they appear to be in good order.  No groves, nicks or pits. They are free rolling. My concern is with the casting by pressing the race out and back in.  I will try to find/make some sort of puller that I can secure to the casting with existing taped holes.


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## Choiliefan (Aug 6, 2020)

Expensive bearings like these are warmed before pressing onto the spindle.
Far as removing goes, probably a good idea to cool the spindle with dry ice.
I've heard of folks using canned dust-off type air for spot cooling.  (?)


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## James K (Aug 6, 2020)

Yes I was planning on warming the bearing and cooling the spindle to make for an easy press fit. Thanks for the info.


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## Richard King 2 (Sep 5, 2020)

It maybe a sliding fit and removing it may ruin it.  I would measure the shaft and bearing bore.  You can get the number off the bearing and call a local industrial bearing house and they can tell you the spec. so you can just micrometer (mike) the spindle.  I took a bearing class at SKF in King of Prussia PA and they said many times one can ruin a new bearing if you install it wrong because of a burr or hammering it out.  I would stone the spindle mount area and where the gears go,  and give it a go if it is a sliding fit.  Spray the bearing with contact cleaner or brake fluid, then coat with a thin oit like 3 -in one or spindle oil and give it a go.   Use a dead blow lead hammer to tap it easy in or make a gear puller out of some ready rod and a large cylinder to put on even pressure.   Also try to screw on the bearing retainer nut before hand to be sure it doesn't have any dings


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## James K (Sep 5, 2020)

Thanks for the info. I was able to make a puller and the rear bearing and race came out with out any issue. I'm going to make a new installing tool using a long piece of all - thread and round stock. I'm going to assemble the bearing and race on the Spidle and install together. I think... ha, ha...


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## Richard King 2 (Sep 5, 2020)

The inner race of the Timken looks like it has wear circles.


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## James K (Sep 6, 2020)

Yes, I noticed those line also. They are visible but not detectable by feel. When I seated the bearing in the race it turns smooth. I don't feel any bumps or inconsistencies.  I know this is not a very accurate way to check the wear, however It's all I have. I have looked into purchasing new front and rear bearings, but haven't had much luck. I went on the Gamet web site and inquired. Still waiting for a response back. Anyone have a lead on where to look for "new" old stock bearings?


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## Richard King 2 (Sep 6, 2020)

What are the numbers on the bearing?    I buy my bearings from this company.   You have to buy bearings from an industrial supply and not the local auto parts store.  Machine tool bearings are precision compared to a car.   Also Baker bearing is a national wholesaler that a local guy can call as they have many old numbered bearings because they buy bearings from companies who have auctions and they buy the bearings out of tool cribs..

*Bearings Inc*
https://www.yellowpages.com/germantown-wi/mip/bearings-inc-3884012#reviews
*N96W15508 County Line Rd, Germantown, WI 53022*
(262) 253-6300

I see this company in CA:

*Motion Industries Industrial Supplies*
*INDUSTRIAL SUPPLIES & EQUIPMENT MISCELLANEOUS IN GARDENA, CA*
760 W 190th St
Gardena, CA 90248 - Los Angeles County
(310) 327-5070




			https://www.bakerbearing.com/


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## James K (Sep 6, 2020)

4274 A and 4274 B 
 see pics


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## Richard King 2 (Sep 6, 2020)

I have been doing some research.  It looks like it is a special bearing -  possible a double bearing.  That is spring loaded,  How about laying everything on a table showing everything.  The holes are for oil and or the springs that are for self adjustment.   A picture of the lathe from afar and photo's of the headstock, the back side of the front bearing.   If it is a special factory bearing it will be expensive and probably best to assemble it as is.   I found these manuals showing the design.   That's why I suspect something is messing and that's why I would like to see everything spread out.




			http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/182/24317.pdf
		




			http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/182/17679.pdf
		




			http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/182/16889.pdf


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## James K (Sep 7, 2020)

Yes the front bearing consist of 2 taper bearings that are housed by 1 race that's pressed into the casting. There is 1 rear bearing that is tapered and has a back plate with small springs in to keep constant pressure.


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## James K (Sep 7, 2020)

See attached pic from my manual


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## Richard King 2 (Sep 7, 2020)

The front bearing is the thrust bearing,  Does it have springs?   The back bearings are usually axial bearings.  If you have all the parts then I would assemble it as I bet the double set of # 7 precision bearings are expensive and probably impossible to buy.   If they were bad, you get it rebuilt by a bearing remanufacture.


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## James K (Sep 7, 2020)

No springs on the front bearing. It's 2 taper bearing in a race. This bearing is pressed onto the spindle all the way to the collier. The rear bearing is 1 taper bearing with a race and the spring loaded flange that bolts on to the inside of the gear box.


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## Richard King 2 (Sep 7, 2020)

It would have helped us from the get go to have shown us the blueprint.  It sounded as if you didn't have one.


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