# Drill chuck for mill



## ebgb68 (Sep 8, 2014)

New guy here looking for some tooling to get started. I want a chuck for a mill and was looking around online. Do I want a R8 arbor type attachment or do I need a straight shaft style and use a collet ? Here is what I'm looking at let me know if there is a better brand or price ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Keyless-1-3...9?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item4ad3afc5d9
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Keyless-1-3...4?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item4ad52e5cb8


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## kd4gij (Sep 8, 2014)

I use an R8 shank. But eather one will work just fine.


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## ebgb68 (Sep 8, 2014)

Thanks for the reply . The shaft type would be quicker than pulling the collet everytime I need to drill I would think .


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## kd4gij (Sep 8, 2014)

If you use mostley 1/2" shank tools then that is the way to go. I use 3/8" shank the most.


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## ebgb68 (Sep 8, 2014)

I would mostly use for under 3/8" but the extra capacity would be nice. I was looking at some Jacobs chucks on there I like their stuff.


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## Bishop (Sep 8, 2014)

I take it your mill takes R8 tapers? I'm only asking because people are often confused by the variety of collet systems out there. Any attachment that has a correct shaft to match your equipment taper will be more convenient than having to find the appropriate collet. 

Shawn


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## ebgb68 (Sep 8, 2014)

Yes I believe its a R8 taper Bridgeport J head ?  I was going by the shaft size on the bit for the straight shaft chuck . Swapping out straight shaft would be quicker than changing collets right ? 
Don't be afraid to give your opinions I'm here to learn.  
Thanks Ed


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## alloy (Sep 8, 2014)

If you decide to go R8 I've bought two of these R8 to JT arbors from this seller and am pretty happy with the quality and price.  Hard to beat $12.90 including shipping. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bolton-Tool...1?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item58b3c850bd


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## Bishop (Sep 9, 2014)

If you were going to switch from the drill chuck to an endmill with the same shank size it would be quicker but that won't happen all the time. If you had a few machines that took different collet systems the straight shank might be good as you could use the drill across them all but otherwise I would stick with the R8 shank.


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## lens42 (Sep 9, 2014)

I have both R8 and a 1/2" straight shank chucks. The R8 will cover all cases if your only getting one, but I use the 1/2" shank chuck more. I seem to go from edge finder to 1/2" mill to 1/2" chuck a lot. Other advantage is if you have low headroom you don't need to move z as much to change tools with the 1/2" straight shank.


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## ebgb68 (Sep 9, 2014)

Well I was looking around at work and I can buy Jacob chuck direct . I see posts about them moving their production from the USA to China. Is it worth the money to buy a ball bearing chuck from them or save a buck on no name one ? My fear on the cheaper chucks is the run out . I have two china drill presses that the chucks wobble so bad they are worthless. I haven't looked into if its the shaft or the chuck.


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## Smudgemo (Sep 11, 2014)

I don't put much stock in fancy chucks, but lots of runout is bad. You could try a med-low price chuck from Grizzly and return it if unacceptable. They sent me one when I complained about runout on the chuck that came w/ my G0704 & the first replacement. I kept that better one when I sold the mill and am happy with it. I don't believe it cost all that much as listed in the catalog. 
-Ryan


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jpfabricator (Sep 11, 2014)

Look at pawn shops for cheap used hand drills. Remove the chuck and chuck the rest. Het an r8 arbor for it, and presto! I have a hand drill that dosent work that eas given to me, it has a 1/2" Jacobs chuck thats waiting for an arbor. When its all said and done I will have app. $15 invested. I also have a keyless 3/8" Jacobs from a retired cordless drill thats waiting for an arbor!


Jake Parker


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## Falcon67 (Sep 11, 2014)

I've been using the 1/2 - R8 chuck that came with my Grizzly G0519 and it's been fine for everything I've used it for.  Never have done a run out check on it though.


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## ebgb68 (Sep 11, 2014)

Good idea ! We get defective drills in at work I will have to watch for some chucks 
I bid on a couple chucks on Ebay and went to bed . Tonight I checked and I won what I thought was a 16N but ended up being a 18N ? Worse case I will use it on a lathe when I get one someday. http://www.ebay.com/itm/JACOBS-Supe...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


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## GK1918 (Sep 18, 2014)

We stick with mainly 1/2 straight shank collets for drill,  center finders, coax ind. etc   that all have 1/2 shanks.  Most our milling is with 1/2 straight shank end mills.

One could go broke buying collets especially using the Crailey monoset system..........

sam


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## refinery Mike (Sep 21, 2014)

i would sure enough go on line and buy a jacobs ball bearing super chuck. You can get them on Ebay used with the R8 arbor attached for less than 50 bucks. You will never have to worry about a bit slipping and chewing up the shaft with a super chuck.  Be aware of keyless chucks that come off of old drills. They are terrible. they slip all the time. misserable. You name the brand and they still stink. Now there are some good keyless chucks made for drill presses but they cost a lot more. It would also be a good idea (like stated by others) to get a smaller chuck off of some old drill at a flea market and put it on a separate arbor for small holes.


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## george wilson (Sep 22, 2014)

Agree about buying an old USA made chuck on Ebay. It is always the chuck that is wobbling,not the spindle on import drill presses. I changed the chuck on a variable speed Delta made in China. At the time,I was able to get a Jacobs still made in USA. It did run true. Someone said you need the chuck to say "Hartford,Conn.",not "Jacobs USA" as the latter will be Chinese made.

The chuck that came on the Chinese Delta wobbled,but also did not grip drills well,and kept buggering up the shanks by slipping.


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## Bill C. (Sep 22, 2014)

ebgb68 said:


> New guy here looking for some tooling to get started. I want a chuck for a mill and was looking around online. Do I want a R8 arbor type attachment or do I need a straight shaft style and use a collet ? Here is what I'm looking at let me know if there is a better brand or price ?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Keyless-1-3...9?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item4ad3afc5d9
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Keyless-1-3...4?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item4ad52e5cb8



I have used both types in the past.  I feel the R8 collect version is a little easier to install and can transfer more power without slipping.  Both are good choices.


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## ebgb68 (Sep 25, 2014)

Thanks again for your replies here I appreciate the help. 
I was telling a friend about chuck shopping and he offered me this Jacobs #32 with a tail stock . I know need to figure out how to change the shafts on this ?


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## Artemetra (Sep 25, 2014)

That Jacobs looks pretty good. You can get the taper adapter off and even pull the arbor, which can be replaced with the R8 or the 1/2" or 3/8" straight shank arbor. It's a little tricky to get arbors out of chucks but look around the forum there is info. Those Shars and other import adapters and arbors are pretty good, and run true. 

I second the opinion of getting good chucks, don't settle for cheap, or at least start with cheap and keep looking for better. It's fun buying used ones (although they can have bad runout so be prepared to try twice/or they can be rebuilt). But when you are using a nice Jacobs or Albrecht keyless your world will go smoother. I use my Albrecht so much it's not funny. It's way worth the $50 you can get them for used, but remember there are some use up ones out there. New is another story, but I can say with a straight face they are worth every penny of the $300-$400 that they cost!


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## hman (Sep 25, 2014)

ebgb68 said:


> Thanks again for your replies here I appreciate the help. I was telling a friend about chuck shopping and he offered me this Jacobs #32 with a tail stock . I know need to figure out how to change the shafts on this ?



Somewhere on the chuck there'll be an indication of which taper it has on the back end.  Little Machine Shop (and probably lots of other vendors) sells wedge sets for the specific purpose of separating Jacobs tapers - put the wedges on either side of the space between the chuck and the existing adapter (slanted sides toward each other), set one down on a solid surface, and give the other one a whack.  That'll separate the chuck from the Jacobs-to-Morse taper adapter:

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3982&category=
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3983&category=

You can get either set for under $12 (+ shipping), or maybe you can ask around (friends, local machine shops, etc.) and borrow a set if you don't want to buy a single-use tool.

Then buy the appropriate taper adapter (either straight shank of R8).  LMS has these, too.


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## ebgb68 (Oct 1, 2014)

hman said:


> Somewhere on the chuck there'll be an indication of which taper it has on the back end.  Little Machine Shop (and probably lots of other vendors) sells wedge sets for the specific purpose of separating Jacobs tapers - put the wedges on either side of the space between the chuck and the existing adapter (slanted sides toward each other), set one down on a solid surface, and give the other one a whack.  That'll separate the chuck from the Jacobs-to-Morse taper adapter:
> 
> http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3982&category=
> http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3983&category=
> ...


Thanks for the info hman .  I cant find anything on the chuck but the shaft has part number A0202 #2 morse taper ? I would assume the #2 wedge would work for that ? 
Do you try to keep all your straight shaft tools the same shank size for quicker change over ? I have one chuck with a 3/4 straight shank should I try to match this smaller chuck to that?
Sorry for the late reply doing this in my spare time .
Thanks again Ed


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## hman (Oct 2, 2014)

ebgb68 said:


> I cant find anything on the chuck but the shaft has part number A0202 #2 morse taper ? I would assume the #2 wedge would work for that?



Morse taper refers to the longish taper that you can see on the shaft sticking out of the chuck.. From your photo, it looks like a yours is probably a #2 Morse taper on the chuck, with a #2->#3 Morse taper adapter sleeved over it.  

The chuck will have a _Jacobs_ taper in its back end.  Look on the chuck nose.  Note where it says "No (?)2(??)" on your photo.  Keep going around, and you should find a number and the word "taper" someplace.  That will be the Jacobs taper number.  Common Jacobs tapers are 3, 6, 33, and maybe 2. 

Failing that, you can measure the diameter of the shank behind the chuck (just before the shoulder of the Morse taper section.)  Then call LMS with that info, and they can tell you which wedge set to get. 




ebgb68 said:


> Do you try to keep all your straight shaft tools the same shank size for quicker change over ? I have one chuck with a 3/4 straight shank should I try to match this smaller chuck to that?
> Sorry for the late reply doing this in my spare time .
> Thanks again Ed



I have R-8 adapters on my chucks.  Don't consider it a big deal to change between the chuck and and whatever R8 collet I need for a milling cutter. The only "straight shaft tools" I have are center finders and the end mills themselves.


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