# Welding Stand



## Hawkeye (Dec 20, 2015)

There was a posting last year for a welding stand that could be adjusted to almost any angle to weld tricky joints on parts. It used a bowling ball and was clamped using a hydraulic jack to apply pressure. A few days later, I found an old bowling ball at a thrift shop. Since I was still out of my house after the fire, I just set it aside. Some months later, my friend, Frank, suggested using a Harley rear spring (complete with chrome cover sleeve) for the clamping pressure. Frank donated the parts. I already had a couple of old brake disks.

I have most of my shop up and running, so I feel the urge to work on the odd project now, not just rebuilding the shop. Time to get out the pieces and build the stand. I had started to build a small heat treating oven before the fire. The fire bricks were all thrown out by the 'restoration' company, so the wheeled stand from that was available. The first step was to prepare the brake disks to clamp the bowling ball. A big lathe is an asset for that. The top disk needs to have the hub cut off.



To get the best clamping action, the disk needs to be beveled, but with a curve to match the ball. In this case, it required a radius of 4.3". I don't have a ball turner that big, but the Storebro lathe has a unique tool post that allowed me to set that radius from the centre of the toolpost to the tip of the cutter, and then swivel the QCTP by hand to cut the curve.



A perfect fit.



The lower disk gets to keep its hub. Just needs the curved bevel.



Here's the wheeled stand with the ball and disks on top and the Harley spring and cover underneath.



In order to compress the spring, which is the same length as the cover, I turned a steel insert to fit between the spring and a 5 1/2" disk. Drilled through to allow a rod to pass to link the lower ball disk to the foot pedal.



Moving right along, here's the whole thing coming together. The upper disk is supported from the cart frame using four threaded rods, which pass through clearance holes in the lower disk (which is on 3/4" shims for setup purposes). The compression disk is also tied to the frame with threaded rods, allowing adjustment of the pressure as needed. Another threaded rod ties the lower disk to the foot pedal, giving a 20 to 1 mechanical advantage. With a 2" movement at the end of the pedal, the rod moves about 0.1", plenty to free the ball.



There is a piece of 3/4" threaded rod epoxied into the thumb hole in the ball, which screws into a nut welded onto a 6" disk, drilled and tapped to bolt on a small vise. The top of the ball can swing through about 66 degrees of angle and rotate as needed. Any arrangement of top plate can be easily screwed onto the top shaft, should the need arise.


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## brino (Dec 21, 2015)

Hawkeye,

I did NOT see the original thread you mentioned, but this sure looks like a useful rig.
Thanks for posting!

BTW, it must be great to have your shop back together. Congrats.

-brino


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## Firestopper (Dec 21, 2015)

Hawkeyes,

I recently saw this done on another forum, and the set up looked to be pretty handy.
Sorry about the fire, that must have been devastating. Good to see you back in the saddle again!


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## Uglydog (Dec 21, 2015)

This is really cool!!
I will likely copy. However, I'm likely to leave the hub attached and secure a larger jig plate to make a larger table.
Could also drill and tap the hub to accept the vise or an old of service 3 jaw.
This is a great build.

edit:
Also wondering if it could be adapted as a bolt on to my existing table to save floor space.
Perhaps with a peg to sit in one of the slots of the acorn table, and the foot extending to the floor through the peg.


Daryl
MN


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## FOMOGO (Dec 21, 2015)

Nice job. I've also seen those on different sites, GJ comes to mind. A round piece of sheet metal under the vice or mounting flange to prevent hot metal from damaging the surface of the ball might be worthwhile. Mike


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## dlane (Dec 21, 2015)

i must be missing somthing , I don't see how it holds / clamps . 
All I can say is careful, bowling balls burn last time I checked , I try to keep flammable things away from welding operations when ever possible,


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## Uglydog (Dec 21, 2015)

Yes, bowling balls would burn.
However, I do alot of TIG. Less of an issue.

I communicated poorly above when I suggested leaving the hub on.
I meant to suggest that the sides of the hub could be used as the mounting plate. 
If turned at 90degrees, drilled and tapped then it's another way to jig stuff at OOP.
Same could be done with a large pipe drop with a face welded on one end.

Daryl
MN


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## Uglydog (Dec 22, 2015)

dlane said:


> ...bowling balls burn...



I was smitten by this construction and initially disregarded dlanes observation about flammability. A little internet search turns up that in the last several years they've been made of Urethane and Polyurethane. Nasty toxic stuff if it begins to off gas. And yes like any plastic it will burn. Hot and toxic. 

I'm not ready to give up on the build, but am thinking about alternative spherical shaped objects.

Daryl
MN


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## dlane (Dec 22, 2015)

Can't find it now ,but recently saw a post with a welding table that had locking bars with vice grips welded to them , the bars were fully adjustable and would lock to any position with the vice grip on the end. I think there were four bar/grips on about a 2x2' plate . If I had the room ied make one of those.


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## Uglydog (Dec 22, 2015)

If you get a pic please post.
It's the out of position potential that is so really cool about this option!
Saw used bowling balls today $6. 
Looking for an alternative. It'd never be a problem unless they somehow get hot enough to ignite. And likely Hawkeye will never have a problem. 
Perhaps the problem solving is the most fun?

Daryl
MN


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## pineyfolks (Dec 22, 2015)

A leather welding apron attached to the bottom of the plate the vise is bolted to and draped over the whole assembly to shield it might help protect it.


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## 09kevin (Dec 22, 2015)

dlane said:


> Can't find it now ,but recently saw a post with a welding table that had locking bars with vice grips welded to them , the bars were fully adjustable and would lock to any position with the vice grip on the end. I think there were four bar/grips on about a 2x2' plate . If I had the room ied make one of those.



Is this the one you were looking for.  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/welding-clamps.39458/ 

Kevin


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## dlane (Dec 22, 2015)

Yes that's the one , nice rig.


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## Hawkeye (Dec 23, 2015)

I was thinking I could put a sheet metal skirt around the upper disk to shield the ball, with a plate riding on the top of the ball to move with it, just in case sparks were a problem. I like Piney's solution better. You can get cheap leather jackets at thrift stores. Lots of soft leather in one of those. Since the top plate unscrews, a 3/4" hole in the middle of the leather would be the simplest way to attach it.


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## uncle harry (Dec 23, 2015)

Uglydog said:


> I was smitten by this construction and initially disregarded dlanes observation about flammability. A little internet search turns up that in the last several years they've been made of Urethane and Polyurethane. Nasty toxic stuff if it begins to off gas. And yes like any plastic it will burn. Hot and toxic.
> 
> I'm not ready to give up on the build, but am thinking about alternative spherical shaped objects.
> 
> ...





I'm wondering what those shiny "lawn balls" that we sometimes see are made of.


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## GarageGuy (Dec 27, 2015)

Just mount a curved shield on the shaft between the vise and the bowling ball to keep hot sparks from falling on it.  Should be fairly easy, and still give you the full range of travel.  Just a thought.

GG


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## Hawkeye (Dec 29, 2015)

That's what I was picturing for the top plate I mentioned above. Ooh! I just flashed on a stainless steel mixing bowl. Pop a hole in the middle and slide it on.

Lots of options.


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