# PM-833T EDUCATED QUILL STOP



## RIMSPOKE (Apr 7, 2017)

THE PM-833T COMES WITH A FACTORY QUILL STOP . 
UNFORTUNATELY , IT IS NOT VERY USEFUL .  
IT CAN BE SET TO THE DESIRED HEIGHT BUT MOVES AS SOON AS YOU TAP IT . 
IT ALSO CANNOT BE MOVED IN PRECISE INCREMENTS 







WITH THE DESIRE TO HAVE A SOLID & ADJUSTABLE TO .001" STOP , I BOUGHT 
AN "EDUCATED NUT" ( IT's GRADUATED ) THAT IS INTENDED FOR A BRIDGEPORT . 
THESE THINGS ARE GREAT BECAUSE OF THE INSTANT UP/DOWN FEATURE  






ADAPTING THIS TO THE PM MILL REQUIRES SOME NEW PARTS . 
THE ORIGINAL CAST IRON BRACKET WAS REPLACED WITH PARTS CUT FROM STEEL .  






I WANTED A LOWER SECTION THAT IS EASILY REMOVABLE SO IT IS MADE TO CLAMP 
ON THE QUILL IN TWO PARTS LIKE A CONNECTING ROD WITH MASSIVE 1/2-20 BOLTS . 

IT WAS BORED OUT TO 2" AND THEN CHUCKED ON THE LATHE 
MY HORVATH ECCENTRIC CHUCK ALLOWED ME TO CHUCK ON A DIAMETER THAT 
ACTUALLY EXCEEDS THE SWING OF MY LATHE BY OFFSETTING THE CENTER !   






THE UPPER SECTION ALSO NEEDS TO BE SOLIDLY MOUNTED . I ONLY HAD 3/16' 
CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE MOVING PLATE & THE FIXED ONE OR I WOULD LOSE 
SOME QUILL TRAVEL . IT WILL BOLT TO THE UNDERSIDE OF THE HEAD THROUGH 
THE ORIGINAL QUILL STOP HOLE AND THE EXTRA ONE THEY PROVIDED FOR NO REASON . 

I LIKE THE USE OF CURVES SO THE FIXED SECTION WAS TURNED DOWN ON MY DRIVE PLATE . 
IT ALSO IS SECURED BY TWO M5 CAP SCREWS THROUGH THE FACEPLATE HOLES . 
IT IS AS SOLID AS A ROCK .   






I PUT A MEGA-CHAMFER ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE MOVING PLATE TO REDUCE MASS 
AND REDUCE THE VISUAL OBSTRUCTION .  






I FOUND A PRETTY CLOSE MATCH THE THE PAINT COLOR P-M USES SO IT WILL LOOK 
LIKE IT BELONGS .  






AS AN ADDED BONUS I CAN USE MY TEMPORARY NUT ON THE BOTTOM AND MAKE A STOP 
THAT WORKS GOING UP OR DOWN .


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## sanddan (Apr 7, 2017)

Nice job!

I love the mega chamfer and lightening holes, great detail to add that really makes the part look "correct" for the application.


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## davidpbest (Apr 8, 2017)

Totally agree with Dan  -  very nicely done.


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## darkzero (Apr 8, 2017)

Nice work. I made a quill stop on my PM45 using the same Morton BP quill stop. One of the best things I've added to my mill which didn't even have one at all.


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## wrmiller (Apr 8, 2017)

Put one of those on my last bench mill. Not as elegantly as you did, but it was functional.


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## Silverbullet (Apr 8, 2017)

Nice up grade, ya gotta love when the cheap is done away with. Looks good , great job.


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## lregister (Jun 3, 2017)

Beautiful design and execution!!!! I wonder if I could ask a favor?  On the 833, what is the distance from the base of the knee (excluding the pan and base) to the table?  Again, great job.  Thanks!!!!


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## RIMSPOKE (Jun 3, 2017)

Beautiful design and execution!!!! I wonder if I could ask a favor?  On the 833, what is the distance from the base of the knee 
(excluding the pan and base) to the table?  Again, great job.  Thanks!!!! 

THE TWO WAY QUILL STOP IS ONE OF THE BEST MODS I HAVE DONE TO THE MILL . 
NOT SURE HOW I GOT ANYTHING DONE WITHOUT IT . 

I DO HAVE A MITUTOYO DIGITAL QUILL KIT FOR IT BUT THE EDUCATED NUT ON THE STOP WORKS SO EFFECTIVELY 
THAT I MAY END UP SELLING IT AND LEAVING THINGS THE WAY THEY ARE . 

THE DISTANCE FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE BASE TO THE TABLE SURFACE ON THE PM-833T IS 10.125" .


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## lregister (Jun 3, 2017)

Thanks so much for taking the time.  Have a great day.  Larry


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## Christianstark (Apr 7, 2022)

2 Questions if you don't mind.

1 - How did you get the factory plate off of the spindle? Did you have to remove the entire spindle?

2 - Do you have a paint code for what you used?

Thanks!


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## j-becker (Apr 14, 2022)

I am looking at the factory plate as well and hesitate to remove the spindle -- any advise on this is appreciated. 

Regarding paint, I just picked a paint at SW ("Light French Gray") that turned out to be reasonable close if that is any help.  Compare the parallel surfaces in the picture (mill and mill stand -- not chip tray) and you get an idea.


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## Larry$ (Apr 14, 2022)

I had put one of those stops on my Jet mill. Really like the quick movement and then ease of fine adjust. 
When I made my old drill press into something a bit better I put one of those on it also. Not as elegant looking as yours though.


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## Christianstark (Apr 14, 2022)

j-becker said:


> I am looking at the factory plate as well and hesitate to remove the spindle -- any advise on this is appreciated.
> 
> Regarding paint, I just picked a paint at SW ("Light French Gray") that turned out to be reasonable close if that is any help.  Compare the parallel surfaces in the picture (mill and mill stand -- not chip tray) and you get an idea.


I am in discussions with the "Machine DRO" company in England right now. They have a box that will allow summing of Z-Axis DRO and Quill using the same type of magnetic scales for each. I am looking to incorporate both in the build.

After looking at the exploded schematics on pm.com, it does look like the spindle needs to come out, but I don't THINK it needs disassembly once the spindle unit slides out the bottom of the head. I think the toughest part will be undoing the quill spring assembly, and then getting it back to tension.


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## ErichKeane (Apr 14, 2022)

Oh man, thank you so much for pointing out that educated nut!  The factory thread-stop on my bridgeport-clone is the most annoying thing in the world.  I've been using it a bunch lately, but taking 20 minutes to roll it up and down is super annoying.  I have one of those spring-loaded ones, but it isn't accurate enough sometimes to get a consistent stop.


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