# Logan 12" 2957v Restoration



## toolman147 (Mar 4, 2016)

Hi...I just purchased a Logan 12" 2957V lathe and am beginning to clean and restore the lathe.  I had been able to use the lathe a little before I started so I knew it need a lil TLC.  It needed a rack pinion gear due to wear and there was a little too much backlash in the carriage.  I started with the saddle/apron.  After removing it and opening it up I discovered that some clutch parts (spring & ball thrust bearings), a brass (oiless) bearing, Crossfeed screw & nut, felts, saddle lock  and some misc. woodruff keys and oilers would also be needed.  I finished the apron (will be doing the saddle/cross slide/tool rest next. 
Here are some pictures:


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## Bob Korves (Mar 4, 2016)

Looks great.  Now you will be forced to do the rest of the lathe to match!


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## astjp2 (Mar 4, 2016)

The saddle looks like it needs scraped in....you may want to look into having it done if you are this far along....and if you are like me, 3 years later I am still messing with it!  Tim


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## toolman147 (Mar 5, 2016)

What do you mean by "scraped in"?  Its been sliding back and forth on the ways for 63 years... What would "scraping" do to make it better. 
My plan is to go over the Lathe...clean...replace any obviously worn parts...paint...reassemble the lathe...adjust/set-up...then make some test cuts to see how accurate (or not) it is capable of being (before I do any kind of metal removal anywhere on the lathe).  I know its worn in places, (like I said its 63 years old) but it's a home shop lathe that will not be making any NASA parts.


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## astjp2 (Mar 5, 2016)

Scraping is a process of creating bearing surface on all of the ways and dovetails.  As it has worn over the years, the surfaces wear, scraping brings them back into tolerances and allow for increased accuracy and the ability to be properly lubed.  look at some of the posts on scraping in the restoration part of the forum and download the Connley book if you want to learn more.  Tim


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## toolman147 (Mar 7, 2016)

I think I'll continue to get it cleaned up, replace anything necessary, and get it back together.  This is my first lathe...I want to use the lathe.  I definitely don't want it torn apart for 3 years.  I have the proper lube and will keep it oiled when I use it...it's not in a production environment so I'm sure it won't wear much more (it has taken 63 years to get this much wear) till I see how it works and how accurate it can be.  I'm sure as I get more knowledge and ability I will be able to determine if more needs to be done to the lathe and if it's worth doing it.  Thanks.
Terry


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## toolman147 (Mar 11, 2016)

Well the bed is all blasted and painted.  The Pedistal base is ready for blasting and paint (I removed the motor and variable speed assembly).  I also cleaned the QC gear box (all the gears look good) and it's ready for paint also. 
Next is the Headstock, Back gears and reverse gears. Then I can start re-assembling my Lathe!


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## toolman147 (Mar 19, 2016)

Well.. The pedestal base is blasted (crushed glass media), primer and painted.  I mixed my own color for the base from Ace Hardware version of Rustoleum (Ace Rust Stop), grey,blue and black.  Can't wait to start re-assembling it!
Terry
Here are a few pictures...


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## toolman147 (Apr 19, 2016)

Well it's starting to come together...  I have the Pedistal base leveled (new feet from Enco) and the bed installed and leveled.  The saddle and apron installed and the Gibs adjusted.  The QC Gearbox installed. The headstock is sitting on the bed, but the mounting bolts/brackets need cleaned yet.  The motor and variable speed set-up and belts need inspected/cleaned and installed yet...Plus the Tailstock assembly needs some parts/cleaned/painted and installed too.

I picked up some way oil (#2 & #4) along with some spindle oil from Enco. 
What is the best lubricant for the open gears, the QC gears, the Lead Screw/Rack Pinion Gear and in the Apron well?
Thanks,
Terry


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## wildo (Apr 19, 2016)

That really is an attractive color for the machine! Nice job!


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## astjp2 (Apr 19, 2016)

You may want to anchor the lathe so it wont move due to vibration.  I have watched machines vibrate across the floor before.  tim


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## toolman147 (Apr 25, 2016)

Well...I got the variable speed unit disassembled/cleaned, put back together and lubed.  I have to go over the motor and clean it then I can put the motor and vari-speed back in the base.  The tail stock is tore down and soaking.  It needs the tailstock screw and ball oiler replaced (got them from Logan Actuator).  So it's getting close to running.  I want to get it set up and do some cuts to see how accurate (or not) it really is.  

The vari-speed before cleaning:



After cleaning:


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## toolman147 (Apr 25, 2016)

Here's a few more pictures...


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## ALAN F (Apr 30, 2016)

Really like the paint color.  Can you provide any specifics to duplicate?  I am working on a Logan 10" model 200  thanks Alan


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## toolman147 (Apr 30, 2016)

Thanks Alan...The base is a mix of ACE Hardware Rust Stop Enamel that i sprayed with my HVLP gun.  I didn't want to use just spray cans since it was so much area...I did the most of the lathe before and I wished I would have used the mix on the Lathe also.  But its a two-tone base/lathe now. 
Base:
2 cups #225A103 Med. Grey (Gloss)
1/2 cup #225A112 Harbor Blue (Gloss)
1/2 cup #225A105 Gloss Black
I thinned it with 1 cup Naphtha
Lathe:
For the Lathe itself I  just  used ACE Rust Stop Med. Grey in a spray can.


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## toolman147 (May 23, 2016)

Well it's finally all together...  It was a more challenging restoration than I anticipated, but I feel I know the machine much better than if I had not tore it all apart.  The challenge now is developing the skill needed to make good use of the Lathe.


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## wildo (May 23, 2016)

You didn't mention if you restored the nameplates, or replaced them (specifically the quick change gearbox nameplate) but it definitely looks nice! Great work!


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## toolman147 (May 23, 2016)

I replaced the QC gearbox nameplate...the other two are original.  I may take my time and try to restore the original QC plate...it was the worst looking one and it had the wrong model number stamped on it...the QC gearbox must have been from another lathe.  I got the new QC plate from Logan Actuator with the right model number stamped on it (2957v).
thanks!


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## wildo (May 23, 2016)

toolman147 said:


> I replaced the QC gearbox nameplate...the other two are original.  I may take my time and try to restore the original QC plate...it was the worst looking one and it had the wrong model number stamped on it...the QC gearbox must have been from another lathe.  I got the new QC plate from Logan Actuator with the right model number stamped on it (2957v).
> thanks!



You may or may not find this useful. I actually JUST did this last weekend. I documented my process here:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/south-bend-9a-restoration-pic-heavy.44300/page-2#post-398241


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## toolman147 (May 23, 2016)

Thanks...your plate look great.  You have more patience than me...lol.


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## wildo (May 23, 2016)

It really wasn't all that much work. Given some of the lessons learned on mine, you should have no problem. The only thing I forgot to mention on my thread is that I used Testers _Gloss_ Enamel (for plastic model making). I chose the Testers Enamel because I figured it'd dry nice and hard being enamel. In the future, I would not use gloss paint though because the wet sanding dulled it. The thing is, it doesn't consistently dull the paint; low areas will still be glossy while higher areas will be more flat after the wet sanding. I tried to mitigate this by spraying the whole plate with a matte clear coat, but that step wouldn't be needed if you start with matte or flat color paint to begin with.

The liquid mask was gold though. It really made the process pretty easy otherwise.


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## toolman147 (May 23, 2016)

Thanks!  
Im looking to get a Phase II quick change tool holder.  what size would be better for my 12" Logan lathe...AXA or BXA?
I have about 1.25" from the top of the compound rest to centerline.


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## wildo (May 23, 2016)

toolman147 said:


> Thanks!
> Im looking to get a Phase II quick change tool holder.  what size would be better for my 12" Logan lathe...AXA or BXA?
> I have about 1.25" from the top of the compound rest to centerline.



Sorry- I have no idea about that.


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## JR49 (May 23, 2016)

toolman147 said:


> Thanks!
> Im looking to get a Phase II quick change tool holder.  what size would be better for my 12" Logan lathe...AXA or BXA?
> I have about 1.25" from the top of the compound rest to centerline.



Toolman147,  my 12" Logan. (2557HV) is basically the same lathe. Although yours is certianly much prettier, nice job!  Anyway, the BXA will be too big, Logan compounds are taller than other lathes.  Even with my AXA, when using a 1/2" toolbit, it has to be almost at the bottom of the toolpost to get the cutting edge on center.  Hope this helps, JR49


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## toolman147 (May 24, 2016)

Thanks JR49...  That helps a lot.


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