# So I'm looking at this on Craigslist...



## 44Dave (Oct 16, 2013)

> For sale AS IS NO WARRANTY. Ready to run and use.
> As shown by the pics the model plate reads 101 07403. I'm not sure if the last set of numbers is a serial, or not. Sold by Sears & Roebuck & Co. I have no idea of what year. The measurements are: 6.25" from headstock center to lathe bed -- it will swing a 12" circle, and between centers is approximately 36". It has a #3 Morris taper in the headstock and #2 Morris in the tailstock. It has a 1" bore through the headstock spindle, 2 speeds on the motor belt, 4 speeds on the secondary belt, and back gears, giving 16 speeds for the spindle. There are no broken or chipped gears, as far as I know, and I have been running it for several years. The reverse/forward lever for the carriage feed should only be shifted with the spindle stopped. It has indexing cogs on the headstock with about 48 holes. Some of them are chipped because someone had tried to use them as a spindle lock to loosen a jammed chuck. The spindle is threaded 1.5" by 8 tpi, therefore, the 110 volt motor is not reversible. The bed ways are flat. There are 45 threading selections including 4 tpi to 120 tpi, and 9 carriage feed speeds for turning.
> Accessories include: one 6" 3-jaw self-centering chuck with 3 outside jaws and 3 inside; one 6" independent 4-jaw chuck ; extra 5" threaded back plate; one home made lathe dog; extra threaded ring to fit headstock spindle; one motor pulley cover (though I'm not sure it is the right one for this lathe, the guy I bought the lathe from said it was); one cut-off tool holder; one each lefthand, righthand, and straight tool holders; one knurling tool; one half-inch drill chuck on #2 Morris shank; one drill chuck key; one 3-jaw key; one boring bar holder; two boring bars; one T-nut that fits the compound rest, 2 tool holder wrenches; one 3/16" center drill (one end broken); and a couple small lathe tool bits.
> The table is home made and sturdy, the lathe is not bolted down to the table. It has a small tool drawer for accessories, as shown. I added an accessory 110volt outlet for a light or other hand tool. When turning in the head stock, I have noticed a slight taper going toward the chuck of about 0.001 per two inches of length. I have not been able to alleviate that infraction.
> ...



Can't tell if I should be interested or not.  A little concerned about the whole 0.001 taper per 2 inches thing going on.  What do you think?  Pass?


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## tigtorch (Oct 16, 2013)

Only weighs 250 pounds?  Seems a bit low for a 12X36 lathe of any make.


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## Uncle Buck (Oct 16, 2013)

44Dave said:


> Can't tell if I should be interested or not.  A little concerned about the whole 0.001 taper per 2 inches thing going on.  What do you think?  Pass?[/FONT]



It is a decent looking machine. I looked the ad up. I do not think I would want it for $1150. I would offer $900, but go no higher than $1000. It looks to be a decent Atlas assuming all the gears are good. I would see more value to it if had a steady rest, follower, etc. As far as the dimension within 2" he mentions, who knows, it may be more operator than machine error.

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tigtorch said:


> Only weighs 250 pounds?  Seems a bit low for a 12X36 lathe of any make.



Probably a wee bit heavier, but not a lot. It is a typical Atlas/Craftsman 12" though so that would not be that far off.


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## schor (Oct 16, 2013)

Sounds like it has the quick change gearbox. Probably a 10 or 12" atlas with the flay ways. I did not see the add, but it sounds reasonable at the 900-1000 mark if it comes with some tooling, steadyrest, milling attachment, ?????

A good starter lathe, I have a th54 and I love it.

Not sure what the guy means by the .002 taper, it could be he just needs to align the tailstock?

Oh, and it weighing only 250lb? I doubt that very much. More likely in the 400-500lb range.


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## Chuck K (Oct 16, 2013)

It sounds like he's talking about turning something that isn't supported by the tailstock.  If thats the case, it wouldn't seem unusual to have some taper in the worn area near the chuck.  He also states that the machine isn't fastened to the bench.  Atlas lathes aren't known for rigidity.  Some of the taper could very likely be eliminated by securing the machine to a heavy bench and shimming it until the twist is taken out of the bed.  In any event, I think the price is at the high end.

Chuck


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## 44Dave (Oct 16, 2013)

Chuck K said:


> It sounds like he's talking about turning something that isn't supported by the tailstock.  If thats the case, it wouldn't seem unusual to have some taper in the worn area near the chuck.
> Chuck


If this is the case, is that something that could be replaced?  Like, the chuck itself could obviously be replaced.  Or is that indicative of the headstock itself?


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## Uncle Buck (Oct 16, 2013)

It is a quick change box machine, but no steady rest, milling attachment, but it did come with basic tooling though, or at least enough to justify $900-1000 price. 



schor said:


> Sounds like it has the quick change gearbox. Probably a 10 or 12" atlas with the flay ways. I did not see the add, but it sounds reasonable at the 900-1000 mark if it comes with some tooling, steadyrest, milling attachment, ?????
> 
> A good starter lathe, I have a th54 and I love it.
> 
> ...


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## Chuck K (Oct 16, 2013)

44Dave said:


> If this is the case, is that something that could be replaced?  Like, the chuck itself could obviously be replaced.  Or is that indicative of the headstock itself?


I was referring to the usual wear in the bed near the headstock.  Most lathes are used a lot to turn short pieces near the headstock.  The first few inches seem to get the heaviest wear.  As long as you know what the lathe is capable of, you can allow for the wear.  I am assuming that you don't plan on doing aerospace work with the machine.  I would be more concerned about the bearings and what kind of surface finish it's capable of. 

Chuck


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## Uncle Buck (Oct 17, 2013)

Chuck K said:


> I was referring to the usual wear in the bed near the headstock.  Most lathes are used a lot to turn short pieces near the headstock.  The first few inches seem to get the heaviest wear.  As long as you know what the lathe is capable of, you can allow for the wear.  I am assuming that you don't plan on doing aerospace work with the machine.  I would be more concerned about the bearings and what kind of surface finish it's capable of.
> 
> Chuck



The same thought crossed my mind regarding tolerance. If you need to work that close like as not you need a different brand than an Atlas/Craftsman is my thinking.


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## 44Dave (Oct 17, 2013)

Roger that.  I emailed the guy last night for additional information; I'll see if he responds.


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## Restorer (Oct 18, 2013)

When looking at used machinery, the first task is to determine the cost of a similar machine equally tooled that is NEW.   If the used machine is in excellent condition and I want or need it, a priced at one half of the new value is the maximum offered.

Wear or damage subtracts from the 1/2 price offer.   To find a comparable model look at ENCO, Grizzley or any one of the fine perveyors of machine tools.etc.   A new machine has: NO wear, a guarentee, and spare parts can be obtained.  These facts have substantial value attached.

Many times I have seen people get caught up in the "What a Deal!" concept and make a purchase in haste.  Especially at an auction.  Then after the money changes hands finds for example, that insufficient room exists in the shop to put it. Or an electrician needs to run a new service because there is no room in the panel for additional breakers.  Or the machine is actually too small for the work that needs to be run off, well you get the picture.

However a few years ago I was called and asked to take a look at a Seneca Falls lathe.  Upon arriving at the specified address, I saw a machine that was in rough shape.  I asked how much are you asking?  She said, "I want this thing out of my garage!"  I dissasembled it, put it in the van and didn't look back.   I restored it to full operational condition, scrounged additional tools for it.  Built a Milling attachment.  Wrote a operating manual, and sold it for a very reasonable price to a fellow that wanted a Lathe for his 14 year old son to start on.  That was worth the work!


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