# Help with my Atlas Lathe



## ZouchaR (Jul 19, 2021)

I just purchased this Atlas 10 inch lathe..  there are no serial number plates of manufacturer information other than the numbers under the covers.  The bottom change gear cover has 10-1504B and the top has 10-1504T.  I have included some pictures if anyone can please give me some insite...


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## markba633csi (Jul 20, 2021)

Looks clean! it has the Timken roller bearing headstock
Robert knows the model #s better than I do
You can also check Lathes.co.uk for info
-Mark
ps be careful not to break off the quick change levers they are _insanely_ expensive


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## ZouchaR (Jul 20, 2021)

markba633csi said:


> Looks clean! it has the Timken roller bearing headstock
> Robert knows the model #s better than I do
> You can also check Lathes.co.uk for info
> -Mark
> ps be careful not to break off the quick change levers they are _insanely_ expensive


I assumed the T in the model number meant Timken bearings.. or is there something by just looking that you can tell??  Maybe the fact that the bearings are "pressed into" the cast housing instead of bolts that you can remove the top casting???

At the moment it is mounted on wheels..  on the original stand..  but I want to make something a little wider to give it more stability..   and move the wheels out from under the original legs so it will be like 3 inches lower to the ground...


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## Zack (Jul 20, 2021)

Clean looking old Atlas.  I like the table too.  Look for a plate with MN at the tail stock end of the ways.      Should be on a tag.  Can't see any reason they would've taken it off.     They were riveted  on as I remember.


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## ZouchaR (Jul 20, 2021)

Zack said:


> Clean looking old Atlas.  I like the table too.  Look for a plate with MN at the tail stock end of the ways.      Should be on a tag.  Can't see any reason they would've taken it off.     They were riveted  on as I remember.


Yeah. That’s where I thought it would be as well. But.


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## wa5cab (Jul 20, 2021)

It is an Atlas 10F Series lathe.  The numbers cast into the two covers are both the casting numbers and the part numbers.  You will find similar numbers cast into most of the cast iron parts, and most of the change gears.  

The nameplate, with Model Number and Serial Number, was apparently originally on the right end of the bed.  The photo of the right end shows one rivet hole and the other rivet with head broken off and painted over.  So it has been repainted.  You can look on the top of the right end of the front way for some letters and numbers stamped there but the practice of stamping the serial numbers there ceased with little if any overlap when the nameplate was moved from the rear of the bed to the right end.  So there is probably nothing stamped into the front way.  That would date it to 1942 or later.  Scaling the swing from one of the photos gives a bed length of 48".  So the size is 10" x 30".  The 48" and 36" beds went out of production around late 1946 or early 1947, shortly before the first QCGB appeared.  So the original model number was TH48 as there were no QC48's made.  Since there were no QC48's made, the QCGB was added between 1948 and 1951, when the second version of 10" QCGB came out.  The headstock is the later one with the rectangular opening for the motor switch.  That change also came out circa 1942.

To summarize,  it was probably made between 1942 and 1947.  It started life as a TH48.  And it was later upgraded to QC48.  The possible serial number range is about 030000 to 080000.  Which unfortunately accounts for over half of all 10" made.  

Should you ever have reason to pull the spindle, you will find hand engraved into the cup and cone of both bearings the inspection date or dates.  Please report those in the thread at the top of the Sticky area.


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## ZouchaR (Jul 20, 2021)

wa5cab said:


> It is an Atlas 10F Series lathe.  The numbers cast into the two covers are both the casting numbers and the part numbers.  You will find similar numbers cast into most of the cast iron parts, and most of the change gears.
> 
> The nameplate, with Model Number and Serial Number, was apparently originally on the right end of the bed.  The photo of the right end shows one rivet hole and the other rivet with head broken off and painted over.  So it has been repainted.  You can look on the top of the right end of the front way for some letters and numbers stamped there but the practice of stamping the serial numbers there ceased with little if any overlap when the nameplate was moved from the rear of the bed to the right end.  So there is probably nothing stamped into the front way.  That would date it to 1942 or later.  Scaling the swing from one of the photos gives a bed length of 48".  So the size is 10" x 30".  The 48" and 36" beds went out of production around late 1946 or early 1947, shortly before the first QCGB appeared.  So the original model number was TH48 as there were no QC48's made.  Since there were no QC48's made, the QCGB was added between 1948 and 1951, when the second version of 10" QCGB came out.  The headstock is the later one with the rectangular opening for the motor switch.  That change also came out circa 1942.
> 
> ...


THANK YOU!!!   I knew that someone would have way more information than I could ever garner....


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## markba633csi (Jul 20, 2021)

Couple of things:  If you need or think you need to replace the countershaft bushings, use care. It's easy to break/bend the spokes of the large pulley pressing out the shaft.  Check with us before starting such a job.  Ditto for pulling the headstock spindle.
Also, check the adjustment of all the gibs.  You want a smooth sliding motion without binding; it often takes some fiddling to get the proper adjustment-not too tight, not too loose
-Mark
ps It looks like one or both of the tumbler gears might need replacing- they develop pointy sharp teeth when worn
Ebay is a source of used parts for these, and Clausing has some new parts available


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## ZouchaR (Jul 20, 2021)

markba633csi said:


> Couple of things:  If you need or think you need to replace the countershaft bushings, use care. It's easy to break/bend the spokes of the large pulley pressing out the shaft.  Check with us before starting such a job.  Ditto for pulling the headstock spindle.
> Also, check the adjustment of all the gibs.  You want a smooth sliding motion without binding; it often takes some fiddling to get the proper adjustment-not too tight, not too loose
> -Mark
> ps It looks like one or both of the tumbler gears might need replacing- they develop pointy sharp teeth when worn
> Ebay is a source of used parts for these, and Clausing has some new parts available


I plan to go through it pretty carefully and make some upgrades.. thank you for your help.. I will make a note about the bushings in case I decide to tear into them...


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## wa5cab (Jul 20, 2021)

Speaking of bushings, if for any reason, you ever decide that you need to pull the spindle, DO plan to replace the three bushings.  Two are in the spindle cone pulley and one is in the small spindle back gear (the one keyed to the cone pulley).

Also, maybe 5% of the 10" and 12" lathes that turn up here had a previous owner who thought that the oil plug in the spindle cone pulley was a set screw and managed to force it down against the spindle.  In back gear, the spindle cone pulley turns about 6 times as fast as the spindle.  So don''t make that mistake.  The oil plug is removed either daily, before using back gear or at least Monthly if you haven't used back gear and several squirts of SAE 20 non-detergent oil but down the hole, and then the oil plug replaced.  Do not over-tighten.

And what "upgrades" are you referring to?


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## ZouchaR (Jul 20, 2021)

I want to add the 24 tooth power feed speed reduction gear..   and probably make a lever for the cross feed instead of the pull knob…. Couple of things I have seen others do on YouTube…


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## ZouchaR (Jul 20, 2021)

wa5cab said:


> Speaking of bushings, if for any reason, you ever decide that you need to pull the spindle, DO plan to replace the three bushings.  Two are in the spindle cone pulley and one is in the small spindle back gear (the one keyed to the cone pulley).
> 
> Also, maybe 5% of the 10" and 12" lathes that turn up here had a previous owner who thought that the oil plug in the spindle cone pulley was a set screw and managed to force it down against the spindle.  In back gear, the spindle cone pulley turns about 6 times as fast as the spindle.  So don''t make that mistake.  The oil plug is removed either daily, before using back gear or at least Monthly if you haven't used back gear and several squirts of SAE 20 non-detergent oil but down the hole, and then the oil plug replaced.  Do not over-tighten.
> 
> And what "upgrades" are you referring to?.



Is this the oil plug that you are referring too??? And should it have an oil plug in it???


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## ZouchaR (Jul 20, 2021)

'


wa5cab said:


> Speaking of bushings, if for any reason, you ever decide that you need to pull the spindle, DO plan to replace the three bushings.  Two are in the spindle cone pulley and one is in the small spindle back gear (the one keyed to the cone pulley).
> 
> Also, maybe 5% of the 10" and 12" lathes that turn up here had a previous owner who thought that the oil plug in the spindle cone pulley was a set screw and managed to force it down against the spindle.  In back gear, the spindle cone pulley turns about 6 times as fast as the spindle.  So don''t make that mistake.  The oil plug is removed either daily, before using back gear or at least Monthly if you haven't used back gear and several squirts of SAE 20 non-detergent oil but down the hole, and then the oil plug replaced.  Do not over-tighten.
> 
> And what "upgrades" are you referring to?


And I am considering just go ahead purchasing the new bronze cross feed and compound nuts..  I think my lathe needs a new cross feed as it has almost half a turn of the knob in backlash..  and the compound has about a 1/4 turn of back lash….  I may need a new cross slide screw as well..


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## wa5cab (Jul 20, 2021)

While the cross feed and compound feed screws and nuts may be worn enough to replace, as I recently wrote elsewhere, there are two sources of apparent back lash in the cross and compound feeds.  One is wear on or in the screws or nuts.  But the other possibility is excessive end float in the screws.  So, before you go buying new parts, set the end floats to half to one thou.  Then run the cross slide almost off of the screw and the compound slide near the end of travel and check the back lash there.  If it is significantly improved, then and only then replace the nuts and maybe the screws.  And get used to the fact that even brand new parts are going to have some backlash.  Otherwise, you would not be able to turn the screw.  It's just a fact of life.  You have to get used to always approaching a setting from the same direction every time.  Generally, you always set CW for facing and OD turning and CCW for ID turning.  If you overshoot, back up at least two turns and try it again.

Also, no, the back gear brackets do not contain any oil plugs.  The oil plug for the spindle is an Allen set screw located down in the bottom of one of the spindle cone pulley grooves.  The tapped hole with nothing in it shown in your photo is for attaching the hinge of the head stock belt cover.  Which may be missing on your machine.  Pulley and belt covers or guards were often an extra cost item on Atlas machines.  The oil filler plug on the back gears is a slotted round head machine screw.


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## markba633csi (Jul 21, 2021)

Robert is correct, the amount of backlash you have is fairly normal for an Atlas and many other lathes- milling machines too
-M


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## jwmay (Jul 21, 2021)

If you decide to replace any gears, I think your money ahead to just buy new ones. Boston gear sells exact replacements in steel for all the change gears.


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## wa5cab (Jul 22, 2021)

Clausing also carries most if not all of the "A" suffix change gears.  I would question, on a hobby-level machine, whether you would ever recover the usually higher cost of steel change gears.


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## wa5cab (Jul 22, 2021)

i forgot to mention that the early change gears have 3/8" hubs and faces.  The "A" suffix gears have 1/2" long hubs.  And the various parts that mount the gears are also 1/8" longer.  The later gears and parts can all be machined to match the early requirement.  With one exception.  There is no "A" suffix 96 tooth gear, as it isn't used on the newer machines.

The change occurred with the 10F and with the '02' on the end of the model numbers of the 12".  So 101.07402 and later use the 'A' suffix parts, for example.


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## JPMacG (Jul 22, 2021)

Regarding the feed reduction hack of substituting the 24-tooth gear....  The YouTube videos don't make this clear, but you will lose the top two rows of threads on the threading chart.   So you will need to change back to the original gear when you want to cut those threads.  No big deal, but something to keep in mind.


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## ZouchaR (Jul 22, 2021)

JPMacG said:


> Regarding the feed reduction hack of substituting the 24-tooth gear....  The YouTube videos don't make this clear, but you will lose the top two rows of threads on the threading chart.   So you will need to change back to the original gear when you want to cut those threads.  No big deal, but something to keep in mind.


I saw that..  and I am not sure that I am going to need to cut 4 threads per inch any time soon..   LOL..  but I did see that.. and thanks for mentioning it..   I am not going to do anything that can't be undone...


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## Grinderman (Jul 22, 2021)

You will definitely enjoy the cross slide control upgrade. I did this awhile back and it's great getting rid of that goofy spinning knob.


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## wa5cab (Jul 22, 2021)

With regard to changing the pull-out knob to the lever operated power cross feed:  This was a change installed on the final (second) version of the 1/2" bed 12" Atlas and Craftsman machines.  The first version appears to have used the same cross-feed parts as did the Atlas 10F and the Craftsman 101.07403, 101.27430 and 101.27440.  Consequently, the only changes to the apron may have been been drilling and tapping two holes to mount the lever hinge and possibly machining flats around the holes.  As you probably already know, there is a gear on the cross feed shaft.   It is the same 10F-33 part in all of the power cross feed machines.  The gear on the shaft with the pull-out knob on it has a Clausing style part number and the number of teeth is not given.  However, there is no apparent reason for them to have changed the diameter or tooth count so it could be the same size as on the earlier machines.  There is some evidence that some part numbers were changed to Clausing style without actually changeing how the part was made.  They also apparently made the lever operated gear and shaft as one piece but the gear appears to be the same size.

So it may be that all that you need to do to convert from the pull-out knob to the lever operated power cross feed could be to find the parts, drill and tap two holes, and bolt it together.  I will have to check that I got them back but I may have the necessary parts.  I can call Clausing and see whether they will release the drawing of the final version of the apron that will show where to drill and tap the two holes.


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## Grinderman (Jul 22, 2021)

Very cool, I didn't know they did that to the later models.


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## wa5cab (Jul 23, 2021)

Circa 1966-06 March 1981
Unfortunately, we don't know the final Atlas serial number, other than that it was an Atlas 3996 and was greater than 106781.  The one shown in your photo is probably a 3986, made from 1966 though Summer, 1974.


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## wa5cab (Jul 23, 2021)

The other two improvements made to the models made during the final 15 years were a slip clutch in the lead screw to take the place of the frangible right lead screw bearing and an improved right bearing with needle thrust bearings.

These improvements may have been what prompted Sears to call it the "Commercial" model.


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## ZouchaR (Sep 26, 2021)

Now..   This Atlas is running on 110V.. but it really has NO GUTS...   I can not do much more than a 3 thousands cuts, even on Cast Iron..    It has the original Atlas motor which is 220V Capable.. what do I need to do to switch this lathe over to 220V...    And will that help my situation?? HELP!!


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## JPMacG (Sep 26, 2021)

Something is wrong.  Mine has plenty of guts with the original Atlas 1/2 hp motor running on 110 V.  

Does your motor actually slow down and/or stall?  It is not that a belt is slipping?  

You are not powering it through a 100' long 18 AWG extension cord, correct?


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## ZouchaR (Sep 26, 2021)

JPMacG said:


> Something is wrong.  Mine has plenty of guts with the original Atlas 1/2 hp motor running on 110 V.
> 
> Does your motor actually slow down and/or stall?  It is not that a belt is slipping?
> 
> You are not powering it through a 100' long 18 AWG extension cord, correct?


It will actually draw the motor down to a stop..   and the belts are not slipping..  I mean there is always some amount of minor slip that you really can't detect in all belt driven tools...   but since it will draw the motor down to a dead stop.. the belts are not the issue..   What happens as these motors get older??? Do they lose some of their horsepower??   And no. this is wired into a standard wall outlet that we wired using code approved wiring..


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## vtcnc (Sep 26, 2021)

ZouchaR said:


> Now.. This Atlas is running on 110V.. but it really has NO GUTS... I can not do much more than a 3 thousands cuts, even on Cast Iron.. It has the original Atlas motor which is 220V Capable.. what do I need to do to switch this lathe over to 220V... And will that help my situation?? HELP!!



Yeah, voltage isn’t the problem. You should be able to take .020-.030 no problem.

Rigidity in your ways and tool post, belt slippage, tool alignment, tool geometry and proper sharpening have a really big impact on depth of cut.

Once you have confirmed all is good there is speeds and feeds that matter as well.

Of course another member mentioned voltage drop, but I doubt that is what is happening given that it looks like you have power in your shop close nearby to your lathe.

EDIT: sorry didn’t see your reply on the voltage. Your motor could be bad.

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## ZouchaR (Sep 26, 2021)

vtcnc said:


> Yeah, voltage isn’t the problem. You should be able to take .020-.030 no problem.
> 
> Rigidity in your ways and tool post, belt slippage, tool alignment, tool geometry and proper sharpening have a really big impact on depth of cut.
> 
> ...


I am trying to turn down a lathe chuck adapter for my 4 jaw chuck..  it is cast iron, so it should be fairly soft..  I am using insert tooling with new inserts and the tool height has been checked. I have a QCT that appears to be solid.    I CAN NOT even think about using auto feed because it literally stops the motor.   I touched off..  and then turned in less than a quarter turn on the cross slide..  and it will bog the motor down almost instantly when the tool touches the work..   you can hear it drag the motor down...


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## JPMacG (Sep 26, 2021)

Maybe the motor's "start" or "run" capacitor?


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## vtcnc (Sep 26, 2021)

It would have to be the run side. Sounds like it’s starting fine.


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## ZouchaR (Sep 26, 2021)

vtcnc said:


> It would have to be the run side. Sounds like it’s starting fine.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It starts right up... and without a load.. it runs just fine...  but as soon as I put a load on it...   doing a cut... it bogs down and stops...  I haven't actually taken it all the way down to a stop because I don't want to damage the motor.. but it would stop if I allowed it...


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## vtcnc (Sep 26, 2021)

If you have two capacitors on the motor, it could be that the run capacitor is shot. Since it starts fine, one could assume your start capacitor is fine. All of this assumes you have a two capacitor motor.

If that isn’t it, I’d swap the motor out and see if that makes the difference.

Have you tried cutting other materials on this machine? Are you able?


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## ZouchaR (Sep 26, 2021)

vtcnc said:


> If you have two capacitors on the motor, it could be that the run capacitor is shot. Since it starts fine, one could assume your start capacitor is fine. All of this assumes you have a two capacitor motor.
> 
> If that isn’t it, I’d swap the motor out and see if that makes the difference.
> 
> ...


I have done a couple of long cuts on steel but not with any real heavy cuts yet...


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## wrat (Sep 26, 2021)

110V motors come in all kinds of HP ratings.  A sewing machine motor is 110V.  So are many air compressors.
You're not running 1/2 hp.  That much is certain.
Or if you are, there is something very wrong with your motor and you're not *getting* 1/2 hp.


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## ZouchaR (Sep 26, 2021)

wrat said:


> 110V motors come in all kinds of HP ratings.  A sewing machine motor is 110V.  So are many air compressors.
> You're not running 1/2 hp.  That much is certain.
> Or if you are, there is something very wrong with your motor and you're not *getting* 1/2 hp.


So..  do I spend the money to take this motor and have it rebuilt by a shop??? Or.. go buy a new motor that will fit in my configuration.. same HP and speed... or.. do I take the treadmill that I have and use the motor and controller from that??   Anyone want to help me out with the pros and cons on the Treadmill motor???


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## wa5cab (Sep 26, 2021)

A quarter turn on the cross feed crank is 0.025".  Try 0.010".  If the motor starts quickly and coasts to a stop instead of stopping instantly when you remove power, there is nothing wrong with the Start Capacitor and probably nothing wrong with the bearings.  The line cord should be at least #14-3 AWG and not over about 10 feet long.  #12-3 is better.  And the outlet should be wired with #12-3 AWG.  Unplug the line cord.  Open the wiring access plate on the motor and loosen and re-tighten each screw or wire nut.  Connect an AC volt meter to the two terminals that the line cord black and white wires are connected to.  Plug back in the line cord.  In most parts of the US, the meter will read between 118 and 125 VAC,  Start the motor. The meter needle should dip momentarily but then return to the original reading.  Engage the power feed.  Same thing should happen.  If the motor stalls and/or the line voltage drops more than 1 or 2 volts, one of three things is probably the culprit.

1  Problem in the motor
2  Problem in the lathe
3  Problem in the AC supply to the wall outlet

Do you have an AC Ammeter with at least 0-20A range?


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## wrat (Sep 26, 2021)

ZouchaR said:


> So..  do I spend the money to take this motor and have it rebuilt by a shop??? Or.. go buy a new motor that will fit in my configuration.. same HP and speed... or.. do I take the treadmill that I have and use the motor and controller from that??   Anyone want to help me out with the pros and cons on the Treadmill motor???


First we need to know what does your motor SAY that it is?  What's the placard say?  It's possible someone might've replaced it with a cheaper, smaller motor than original.  It's possible you've been laboring with an underpowered setup.  If not, you're just using it incorrectly, but if so, it's probably time for a replacement.

Treadmill motor is a PROJECT.  Not a great big project, but mounts and belts and wiring that all have to be fabricated; including troubleshooting.

A shop might rebuild yours cheaper than a new one.  I don't know.  Of course, if it's not the right spec, there's nothing to rebuild, anyway.


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## ZouchaR (Sep 26, 2021)

wrat said:


> First we need to know what does your motor SAY that it is?  What's the placard say?  It's possible someone might've replaced it with a cheaper, smaller motor than original.  It's possible you've been laboring with an underpowered setup.  If not, you're just using it incorrectly, but if so, it's probably time for a replacement.
> 
> Treadmill motor is a PROJECT.  Not a great big project, but mounts and belts and wiring that all have to be fabricated; including troubleshooting.
> 
> A shop might rebuild yours cheaper than a new one.  I don't know.  Of course, if it's not the right spec, there's nothing to rebuild, anyway.


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## ZouchaR (Sep 26, 2021)

ZouchaR said:


> View attachment 379892


So I think I have discovered the problem.. but I don't know what the cause is...   Watch this video...


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## wa5cab (Sep 27, 2021)

Well, I hadn't even considered this but I don't know how else one would get 1/2 of line voltage with the motor running other than that if it is wired for 220 VAC instead of for 110 (if the motor were made today it would say 240 and 120).  That would certainly explain why it has almost no power.  Post a photo (not a video) of the motor's wiring diagram plate and of the drum switch's connection diagram for 110 VAC single phase reversing.

Or if you feel that you know what you are doing, disconnect all of the motor, drum switch and line cord wiring and reconnect them for 120 VAC single phase, not 240.  Or as the plates will be marked because of when the motor and switch were made, 110 VAC instead of 220 VAC.


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## craniac (Sep 27, 2021)

wa5cab said:


> Well, I hadn't even considered this but I don't know how else one would get 1/2 of line voltage with the motor running other than that if it is wired for 220 VAC instead of for 110 (if the motor were made today it would say 240 and 120).  That would certainly explain why it has almost no power.  Post a photo (not a video) of the motor's wiring diagram plate and of the drum switch's connection diagram for 110 VAC single phase reversing.
> 
> Or if you feel that you know what you are doing, disconnect all of the motor, drum switch and line cord wiring and reconnect them for 120 VAC single phase, not 240.  Or as the plates will be marked because of when the motor and switch were made, 110 VAC instead of 220 VAC.


This seems like a classic case of a motor wired for 220 running on 110. I've heard of this a bunch, and encountered it myself on a jointer I had purchased. In fact miswiring contributes to machines being sold cheap, it must be an easy mistake to make. You just never know what the previous owner has been up to , or what their skill level was.  

Tim


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## vtcnc (Sep 27, 2021)

I’m sorry. Can someone explain how one would go about wiring a 110V motor as 220v? This seems inconceivable to me.


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## ZouchaR (Sep 27, 2021)

craniac said:


> This seems like a classic case of a motor wired for 220 running on 110. I've heard of this a bunch, and encountered it myself on a jointer I had purchased. In fact miswiring contributes to machines being sold cheap, it must be an easy mistake to make. You just never know what the previous owner has been up to , or what their skill level was.
> 
> Tim
> 
> ...


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## wa5cab (Sep 27, 2021)

If you will go back to Post #40, which is a photo of the motor data plate, you will see that the motor could be connected for either 110 or 220 VAC.  My guess is that the motor is wired for 220 and being run off of today's 120 VAC.  From the data plate, you can calculate that when wired for 220, and operated off of 120, the full load amperes would be about 2.18 amps instead of the intended 8 amps.  So stalling it would be easy.


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## ZouchaR (Sep 27, 2021)

The electric motor company told me "it's probably a bad winding and will cost about $1500 to rewind"..  So..  I don't think the motor is bad.. I do still think it is wired wrong...  so I am going to have to work on it...


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## wa5cab (Sep 27, 2021)

Yes, as I wrote earlier, the motor can be connected for either 110 or 220, and indications are that is is connected for 220.  Which today would be 120 or 240.


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## ZouchaR (Sep 28, 2021)

Tonight, I took the switch apart to see if that was the issue.   I made sure to take pictures so I could put it back the same way.  In the off position, with no wires attached.. each lug is independent of the others.  In the Forward position, the top two lugs are connected, the middle two are connected and the bottom two are connected.   In Reverse, the top two on the left are connected, the top two on the right are connected and the bottom two are connected.  From everything that I can see and read, including the wiring diagram under the cover, THIS appears to be correct.   NOW.. watch this video after I reconnected all of the wires.


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## vtcnc (Sep 28, 2021)

So you have three wire feeder coming off your panel to the switch? Hot, neutral and ground? The blue and red are feeding the motor only from the switch? 

And what is the second black wire doing in there?


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## ZouchaR (Sep 28, 2021)

vtcnc said:


> So you have three wire feeder coming off your panel to the switch? Hot, neutral and ground? The blue and red are feeding the motor only from the switch?
> 
> And what is the second black wire doing in there?
> 
> ...


There are indeed three wires from the recepticle.  One is black, ganged with the other black, connected too the middle terminal on the right side.  The white or neutral leg (And I probably should pin this out to make sure it is indeed connected to neutral), that white wire is connected to the bottom lug on the left side.  The last wire is green, and it is connected to the box itself as ground or Earth for our European/Australian friends..


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## vtcnc (Sep 28, 2021)

Have you traced where the second ganged black wire goes to?


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## ZouchaR (Sep 28, 2021)

Not yet.. but I can...   I think it goes directly too the yellow wire which is the cap???


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## ZouchaR (Sep 28, 2021)

vtcnc said:


> Have you traced where the second ganged black wire goes to?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The black wire that is ganged to the other black from the receptacle is on the middle terminal on the right side and goes to the bottom post inside the motor.  The RED Wire, that is on the top left terminal goes to the other post inside the motor.


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## wa5cab (Oct 2, 2021)

You still have not posted the connection diagrams for the motor or for the drum switch that I asked for.  There is no real standard for how motors are connected.  Or how drum switches are connected.  Nor for the colors of the wires coming out of the motor.  Every or almost every manufacturer did it a different way.  But the fact that at one place in the wiring you have half line voltage tells me that the motor is definitely connected for 240 volts, not for 120.  There is no other way to get half of the AC line voltage in a single phase AC motor.

You need to have someone who knows what they are doing rewire the thing before you electrocute yourself,


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## ZouchaR (Oct 2, 2021)

wa5cab said:


> You still have not posted the connection diagrams for the motor or for the drum switch that I asked for.  There is no real standard for how motors are connected.  Or how drum switches are connected.  Nor for the colors of the wires coming out of the motor.  Every or almost every manufacturer did it a different way.  But the fact that at one place in the wiring you have half line voltage tells me that the motor is definitely connected for 240 volts, not for 120.  There is no other way to get half of the AC line voltage in a single phase AC motor.
> 
> You need to have someone who knows what they are doing rewire the thing before you electrocute yourself,


Sorry...   So Yes.. I took the motor and switch to a repair shop and they looked it over and rewired it for me.  They did change out some of the wires and now it seems to run MUCH better under a load.

Thank you to everyone who responded.


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