# Pump Oil Can Prints



## rwm (Mar 14, 2015)

Here are the prints for the pump oil can I made, pictured below.
Many thanks to Bill for the time and effort he spent drawing these up from my previous diagrams.







Here is a link to the build thread that has a lot of detailed information and assembly instructions:

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/oil-can-2.30936/

Enjoy,
Robert


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## randyjaco (Mar 14, 2015)

Thanks R
I am going to have to give it a try.
Randy


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## Billh50 (Mar 14, 2015)

Just as a note. You may notice some of the text in the lower blocks of the print border do not look right. That happened when I converted to pdf for some strange reason. But if there is anything not legible on any print let me know and I can get you the information needed.


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## 34_40 (Mar 15, 2015)

That's beautiful!  Does it work as good as it looks?


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## rwm (Mar 15, 2015)

It works great! No leaks at all! One of them loses prime after it sits for a few days and it takes a couple of pumps to get it going. I think if I polished the inlet valve seat that would correct this minor problem. Obviously the brass tarnishes so if you really want a nice one do it in stainless if you have the capability. May actually be cheaper than brass but the soldering is a pain.
R


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## itsme_Bernie (Mar 15, 2015)

Cool!  Eagle Number 66 is back brand new!  

Bernie 


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## 34_40 (Mar 15, 2015)

Thanks for the reply..  it's a wonderful piece you've crafted!


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## BobSchu (Jun 28, 2015)

34_40 said:


> Thanks for the reply..  it's a wonderful piece you've crafted!


Very cool project. This is one I'm going to have to try. Thanks for the great drawings.

Bob


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## Calixt0 (Nov 25, 2015)

This is cool.  Wanted one of these oilers but couldn't find any.  Know can make my own.


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## NCjeeper (Nov 26, 2015)

I was referred to this post from a you tube video. Nice oilers. I cant wait to make one.


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## lepomper (Dec 8, 2015)

I've seen someone on youtube that made a modified version of this oiler.  And I don't understand why he chose to make those modification.   The prints are simpler.  Maybe some prefer to complicate things or adapte the design for them.


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## HarryPhelps (Dec 16, 2015)

Has anyone happened to do a metric equivalent of this by any chance?? Or will I have to sit here and convert it all.....  either way is all good! Good practise I suppose


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## Crazedshooter (Jan 12, 2016)

I was wondering what happened to the plans?? They won't open, it downloads I've tried other plans and they download and open, was it deleted because there's an red X on the file.


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## kvt (Jan 12, 2016)

On mine you have to go below the image with the red X and they are there.


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## Crazedshooter (Jan 12, 2016)

I downloaded the file but my phone won't open it,, it says downloaded then when I click on it the phone tells me that it can't open it,, might be an issue with my phone.


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## great white (Jan 12, 2016)

very nice.

But yet another project that I have to add to the never ending list.........


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## stupoty (Jan 12, 2016)

Crazedshooter said:


> I downloaded the file but my phone won't open it,, it says downloaded then when I click on it the phone tells me that it can't open it,, might be an issue with my phone.



My ipad normaly opens pdf's directly, the attachement did as you say except i can open it in adobe acrobat reader when it has downloaded, should be a free app on the play store/apple store .

Stuart


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## Here Skip (Feb 6, 2016)

rwm said:


> It works great! No leaks at all! One of them loses prime after it sits for a few days and it takes a couple of pumps to get it going. I think if I polished the inlet valve seat that would correct this minor problem. Obviously the brass tarnishes so if you really want a nice one do it in stainless if you have the capability. May actually be cheaper than brass but the soldering is a pain.
> R


Where did the springs and o-rings come from come from, only has an McM part number on the drawing? Being in Australia i will need to find the specs and match them with what i can source locally.


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## Billh50 (Feb 7, 2016)

They came from Mcmaster-Carr.  Here is the information fo rthem.


#9  Viton  ‘O’ Ring  Dash No. 008  5/16 OD,  3/16 ID,  Actual size is .316 OD,  .176 ID,  Dia. 1/16  (.070 actual )

#10 Spring  302 Stainless  1” long, .30 OD, .032 wire, Compressed length .337, Load 4.69 lbs, Rate 8.49 lbs / inch

#12 Spring  music wire  .937 long, .187 OD, .012 wire, Compressed length .25, Load .20 lbs, Rate .29 lbs / inch

#15  Rubber Washer  .355 ID, .812 OD Thickness .052 min - .072 max. ,

#22  Viton  ‘O’ Ring  Dash No. 011  7/16 OD,  5/16 ID,  Actual size is .441 OD,  .301 ID,  Dia. 1/16  (.070 actual )


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## Here Skip (Feb 7, 2016)

thanks Bill!! wish we had a store like Mc Master over here. will probably take me to 4 different shops to get all that!


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## Billh50 (Feb 7, 2016)

I use McMaster a lot to order stuff. They carry most everything I need and I get it within 2 days. Their shipping is great.


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## Here Skip (Feb 7, 2016)

dont think they do international shipping, alot of US stores have cut it in recent times.


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## Billh50 (Feb 7, 2016)

McMaster ships world wide


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## Ralph Schubert (Mar 3, 2016)

Hello.
I would really like to build that beauty,but the pdf is almost unreadable.
The lines are so light,at best they can be adumbrated.
At least on my IPad.
Any chance to send me a better copy or to readjust them here?
I would really appreciate that.
Thank you for any help.
Cheers,Ralph


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## Billh50 (Mar 3, 2016)

I would gladly convert prints to metric but I do not have the originals anymore. My hard drive had crashed since then and I lost a lot of my files. I would have also made sure all lines were bolder.


Sorry guys


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## rwm (Mar 3, 2016)

Hmmm. I looked at the prints again and they look fine. Try viewing on another machine?
R


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## Ralph Schubert (Mar 4, 2016)

Okay,I'll try.
Cheers,Ralph
P.S.I've found your thread and maybe I can use it for my project.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/oil-can-2.30936/


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## Steve Shannon (Mar 4, 2016)

Ralph Schubert said:


> Hello.
> I would really like to build that beauty,but the pdf is almost unreadable.
> The lines are so light,at best they can be adumbrated.
> At least on my IPad.
> ...


The same thing happens on my iPad. I think it's because of the way the iPad renders lines from PDFs, as a single pixel in width.  It should print much better and probably appear better on a PC.


 Steve Shannon, P.E.


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## waz (Aug 20, 2016)

I realize this months after the fact, but these are just what I've been looking for as I can't afford an original Eagle 66.


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## JSirmans (Oct 24, 2016)

I saw a you tube video of someone using these plans. I just wanted to thank you for making the plans available, I think this will be one of my first projects.


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## rwm (Oct 24, 2016)

I'm gratified to hear they are getting used. I am very happy with my cans and they work well.
R


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## NCjeeper (Oct 24, 2016)

waz said:


> I can't afford an original Eagle 66.


Search E-bay. I got my last 3 cans from there at real good prices.


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## lpeedin (Nov 17, 2016)

I am in the process of building 4 of these for Christmas 2016 presents for my brothers in law. I am making a video series that will be on my YouTube channel when completed. The only deviation I'm making from the original plans is that I'm using aluminum with brass accents. I'm also taking some "creative liberties with the base. Here's a couple of pictures of my progress - remember to multiple everything by 4. 




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## lpeedin (Nov 17, 2016)

I'm made all the bolts from brass round stock




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## lpeedin (Nov 17, 2016)

Can't decide which base I like the best so I have a thread going on the YouTube Machinist group on Facebook. Right now it's pretty much a tie. 
View attachment 223623



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View attachment 219090


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## intjonmiller (Nov 25, 2016)

lpeedin said:


> Can't decide which base I like the best so I have a thread going on the YouTube Machinist group on Facebook. Right now it's pretty much a tie.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I like the smoother base myself, as it would clean up much easier. I just watched your YouTube video. I really like your style and now I feel the need to add this to my list of things to make. I like how, true to your channel name, you used AL since it was what you had on hand.  But that has me thinking: I have about 20' of used copper pipe that I cut into roughly 6" segments for melting in my backyard metal furnace. Maybe I should make mine out of copper.


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## lpeedin (Nov 25, 2016)

intjonmiller said:


> I like the smoother base myself, as it would clean up much easier. I just watched your YouTube video. I really like your style and now I feel the need to add this to my list of things to make. I like how, true to your channel name, you used AL since it was what you had on hand.  But that has me thinking: I have about 20' of used copper pipe that I cut into roughly 6" segments for melting in my backyard metal furnace. Maybe I should make mine out of copper.



I think copper would be a great choice. Thanks for the comments. 


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## rwm (Nov 26, 2016)

Hard to cast pure copper. It likes to be an alloy. Have you tried? If you want that look just make a really red brass, like 90-95% Cu.
R


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## intjonmiller (Nov 26, 2016)

I'm planning on working through making aluminum bronze at some point, but I know that is challenging so I'm holding off until I have more experience in general. At this point, yes, I'm just doing brass. I have lots of yellow brass (spent rimfire and out-of-spec centerfire), and I plan to make the color richer with some extra copper. That and just making stock for the lathe and mill. I've only poured aluminum so far, but I'm stockpiling all the copper, brass, bronze, and lead I can get my hands on.


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## rwm (Nov 26, 2016)

You might consider Silicon Bronze (Everdur.) You can make it or buy it. Easiest thing I have ever cast and is pretty red in color.
R


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## kvt (Nov 26, 2016)

I also have a bunch of brass that I have collected,   Some I have melted down into small ingots,   I have done some alum also but that had a bunch of air bubbles in it,  Thus unable to use it for much of anything.   I figured I could do a few of the parts by making molds for them,   But have to come up with the brass tubing for the body etc.  
I was thinking the red brass for the top, and bottom at least,   (actually though about making some brass ones for wife's cooking oil as well) 
If I have to purchase everything I am thinking Stainless but I have not worked with it before.


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## garysue46 (Feb 12, 2017)

rwm said:


> Here are the prints for the pump oil can I made, pictured below.
> Many thanks to Bill H for the time and effort he spent drawing these up from my crude diagrams.
> 
> View attachment 183332
> ...


Thanks a bunch getting started soon
Gary


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## fwwbronco (Apr 17, 2017)

rwm said:


> It works great! No leaks at all! One of them loses prime after it sits for a few days and it takes a couple of pumps to get it going. I think if I polished the inlet valve seat that would correct this minor problem. Obviously the brass tarnishes so if you really want a nice one do it in stainless if you have the capability. May actually be cheaper than brass but the soldering is a pain.
> R


don't solder, Tig weld it


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## rwm (Apr 17, 2017)

fwwbronco said:


> don't solder, Tig weld it


I have a Miller TIG and that was my first plan. TIG welds are stronger but many end up not being water tight due to microscopic porosity. With braze/solder that is far less likely. Mine have not leaked a drop.
Robert


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## scwhite (Apr 18, 2017)

Those oil cans look good 
You did a great job on them


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## Wout Moerman (May 11, 2017)

Billh50 said:


> I would gladly convert prints to metric but I do not have the originals anymore. My hard drive had crashed since then and I lost a lot of my files. I would have also made sure all lines were bolder.
> Sorry guys



I can change the lines from grey into black, which makes a usable print. If there is interest I can redo the set of plans this way and post them here as pdf.


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## Billh50 (May 11, 2017)

I only drew the prints and they were drawn in black then converted to pdf. At the time the converter I had must have made the lines lighter. You can ask the man who designed the oil can if you wish.


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## Wout Moerman (May 11, 2017)

Bill, thanks for the reply. My mistake, I held you for the designer.

Robert, are you listening?

Attached is the first page. I like to hear whether this is a sufficient improvement or not. If not, I can try some tricks to increase the line width.


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## rwm (May 11, 2017)

I am listening!
I have not had any trouble reading any of the original pdf documents. The lines look fine for me. Could it be your pdf viewer or its settings? Your document looks great too. Thank you for posting.
Robert


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## Wout Moerman (May 12, 2017)

Thanks! It might be the settings. But I know more people have trouble reading the prints. So they can benefit from this version. The drawing itself is not changed so the compliment should go to Bill for the drawing and to you, Robert for the design.


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## Wout Moerman (May 21, 2017)

Here are the plans of Roberts pump oil can as drawn by Bill, but now with darker lines. I hope printing will result in clear and readable prints for everyone. Please let me know if it works (or not).

Next step for me, let's see if I can build one !


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## werowance (May 23, 2017)

Thank you for the plans,  I just finished mine.  I love it  more pressure than my real 66 has less trigger force required to achieve that pressure as well.  fits the ball oilers on my lathe just perfectly.

thanks again for sharing those plans


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## rwm (May 23, 2017)

Nice workmnship!
Robert


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## Priyanka1995 (Aug 26, 2017)

Great job sir..


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## Silverbullet (Aug 26, 2017)

Billh50 said:


> Just as a note. You may notice some of the text in the lower blocks of the print border do not look right. That happened when I converted to pdf for some strange reason. But if there is anything not legible on any print let me know and I can get you the information needed.


Thanks Bill hope your feeling better. I'm getting things lined up back to the surgeon on the 21 of Sept. Then he,ll remove an old stimulator that's been dead for ten years. Mri  then back to see what he can do . I'm praying for my fellow machinist in need.


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## Wesley (Dec 13, 2017)

Hi Robert

Thanks for the drawings. I’m new to the site and I think that this may be one of my first projects. I’m sure it will be a slow build for me but I’ll let you know how it turns out.

Thanks again

Wes


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## Marcovitch (Dec 26, 2017)

Hi Robert,
I'm from Switzerland.
Thanks a lot for the drawings.  
A subscriber of my YouTube chanel asked me if I could make an oil Can. Having no idea how to do it, I looked on YouTube where I found the video of Mr. Halligan142 who gave the link of this very good forum where I registered. As the plans are in Inches, I took the initiative to make them in metric. 
I hope this can help some of you.
Maybe some of you guys can use them.
Here are the links to download them on fusion.

http://a360.co/2iw48XX  3D view
http://a360.co/2zeIkKA    General view and my source 
http://a360.co/2iwns7u    The valve
http://a360.co/2iv3qdo     The body
http://a360.co/2l9iXAX     The top
http://a360.co/2Dd46wy  The screws
http://a360.co/2DaiAgO   The piston and nose
http://a360.co/2kUrZCF   The bottom

I wish you all, health and happiness for the year 2018 to come.

Marco

Here are some videos I made during the production, only in French sorry guys!

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLs_0BuC9kb__nb8-M3lv4MMMtSwIEjvFq


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## rwm (Dec 26, 2017)

Edit


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## rwm (Dec 27, 2017)

My wife uses the stainless version in the kitchen for cooking oil. She loves it. Just for fun here is the matching salt shaker for cooking:







Robert


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## fwwbronco (Jan 1, 2018)

kvt said:


> I also have a bunch of brass that I have collected,   Some I have melted down into small ingots,   I have done some alum also but that had a bunch of air bubbles in it,  Thus unable to use it for much of anything.   I figured I could do a few of the parts by making molds for them,   But have to come up with the brass tubing for the body etc.
> I was thinking the red brass for the top, and bottom at least,   (actually though about making some brass ones for wife's cooking oil as well)
> If I have to purchase everything I am thinking Stainless but I have not worked with it before.


I think you should use stainless in the kitchen. Also, the reason you have air bubbles in you alum is that it needs a top cover of lite salt when you melt it to keep the alum from oxidizing. make sure it is lite salt, don't remember why but regular salt will not work.


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## fwwbronco (Jan 1, 2018)

rwm said:


> My wife uses the stainless version in the kitchen for cooking oil. She loves it. Just for fun here is the matching salt shaker for cooking:
> 
> View attachment 251377
> 
> ...


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## fwwbronco (Jan 1, 2018)

Do or would you, have the dimensions of salt shaker maybe a drawing? What about a pepper shaker or grinder to go with it. Sweet job btw.


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## rwm (Jan 2, 2018)

The dimensions of the salt shaker are obviously not critical. The one I made is 3-1/2" high and made from 1-1/4" OD tubing with a .050 wall. The top cap has 6, 1/16" holes. The base has a .700" hole with a delrin plug and an O-ring. I was planning on a threaded plug originally but this would have required threading up to a shoulder. The O-ring plug is superior in function anyway. Top and base are press fit and sealed with Locktite on mine. I must advise you to only use a food safe adhesive on yours.
Robert


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## Marcovitch (Jan 3, 2018)

rwm said:


> Merci! Bon travail, ces't magnifique!
> 
> Thank you for referencing the source. It is very gratifying to see that people from all over the world have an interest in this. I'm sure the metric version will get a lot of use! I like your personal spin on it with knurled nuts. Very elegant. Is that stainless or aluminum?
> As Werowance noted above these work great with ball oilers.
> ...


Thanks Robert for your nice comment.
I did it in aluminium with all screw in brass.


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## Marcovitch (Jan 3, 2018)

I'm posting here the metric plans in .pdf for those who prefer to access directly.


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## Marcovitch (Jan 11, 2018)

Marcovitch said:


> I'm posting here the metric plans in .pdf for those who prefer to access directly.


I can't edit the post for replacing the "oil can nose and piston.pdf" with the last version of it. So I had it here.


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## Marcovitch (Jan 11, 2018)

I'm just showing here what I did for stoping the drops falling from the nose, that work well for me! No drops any more!

By adding a small peace of brass inside the tube, and create a small chamber at the end. This has retained the pressure of the oil which is in the length of the tube.
Marco


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## Charles Shaughnessy (Jan 22, 2019)

Here Skip said:


> Where did the springs and o-rings come from come from, only has an McM part number on the drawing? Being in Australia i will need to find the specs and match them with what i can source locally.


McMaster-Carr


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## rwm (Jan 22, 2019)

Beautiful work Marco. Thanks for contributing.
Robert


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## Ralph Schubert (Jan 23, 2019)

Someone is selling them for a lot of money.

Oil can replica


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## rwm (Jan 25, 2019)

That's so cool! I hope he does well with them.
Robert


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## Ralph Schubert (Jan 25, 2019)

Guess they are little bit expensive for hobbiists.
https://www.butterfield-machine.com/products/eagle-66-replica-oil-cans


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## bigblock61 (Dec 13, 2019)

I'm about 99% done with mine. I still need to make the screw that holds the top on out of brass. I made this from scrap brass, aluminum and copper I had laying around my garage.I melted it down and poured it into molds that I machined. I'm probably going to have to remake the manifold and trigger as it leaks around the trigger. I'm still calling it a win for never melting metal before and still a beginner at machining. Thanks for posting the plans.


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## francist (Dec 13, 2019)

Looks great! What have you got going on on the top of the cap there? Looks like a relief pattern, maybe a filigree ? Can’t really tell from the photo.

Looks really nice what I do see though 

-frank


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## mmcmdl (Dec 13, 2019)

Ralph Schubert said:


> Guess they are little bit expensive for hobbiists.
> https://www.butterfield-machine.com/products/eagle-66-replica-oil-cans



Wonder if I could sell my home made citronella candles for $100 a piece ?  Nice looking job bigblock .


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## bigblock61 (Dec 13, 2019)

francist said:


> Looks great! What have you got going on on the top of the cap there? Looks like a relief pattern, maybe a filigree ? Can’t really tell from the photo.
> 
> Looks really nice what I do see though
> 
> -frank



When I poured the copper into the mold it made a really cool pattern that I left in for the top. I then cut rings into it every .200. I'll get a better pic of the top and post it.


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## 34_40 (Dec 14, 2019)

That is one sweet piece of work.  Inspiring


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## rwm (Dec 14, 2019)

That is very nice work. The brass and copper look great! I think you and I are the only people who cast their own parts! Show us the top.
Robert


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## bigblock61 (Dec 14, 2019)

rwm said:


> That is very nice work. The brass and copper look great! I think you and I are the only people who cast their own parts! Show us the top.
> Robert



Thanks I like the way the brass and copper go together as well. It's almost a shame to use it in my shop lol.

Here is the top of my oil can. If you have ever poured molten copper you know the wrinkled surface you get when it cools. I had to leave that as part of the can because I did make this almost entirely from casting. The small hollow tubes for the pickup and nozzle, and the hardware for the valve body are the only things I bought.


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## 7milesup (Feb 29, 2020)

Just came across this thread.   OMG, now another project.  Especially like the idea of making one for the wife.


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## Karlito26 (Sep 11, 2020)

Right now i am in the middle of buying parts and material. I am looking forward to starting mine.
While helping my brother out recently i discovered he has on original Eagle. Its a nice little oiler.


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## Tinman56 (Nov 16, 2020)

Fantastic looking oil can, I am going to have to give this a go !


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## Larry$ (Nov 16, 2020)

Very nicely done! I like McMaster-Carr. Huge selection of parts, great descriptions, fast delivery, some things seem rather expensive but considering the service and quality well worth it.


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## Larry$ (Nov 16, 2020)

My melt furnace doesn't get hot enough for copper. I need to change to oil. Electric would be better for aluminum.


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## Jim F (Nov 18, 2020)

How do you get the plans to print properly ?


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## rwm (Nov 18, 2020)

The ones I posted are .pdf. They should open in Adobe and print normally. What program are you using to open them?
Robert


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## Jim F (Nov 18, 2020)

the pdf opens in a browser tab.
I tried scaling, but it did not work.


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## rwm (Nov 18, 2020)

Don't open in the browser. Get the actual Adobe program and use that. It should be free.
R


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## kcoffield (Nov 18, 2020)

Woh, Those are nice. I didn't get it when you posted in my lathe thread that it needed an oil can...........those are really nice and great workmanship.

Best,
Kelly


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## rwm (Nov 18, 2020)

Thanks Kelly!- I keep an open can and brush on the back of my cross slide. I was just thinking that your new cover would provide a lot of real estate for that. It is very convenient.
Robert


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## Squizz97 (Jun 30, 2021)

Gonna Have a go at making it. What is the easiest material to work with for making the oil can?


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## brino (Jun 30, 2021)

@Squizz97 

I cannot comment on the oil can, but just wanted to say....... Welcome to the group!

-brino


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## Squizz97 (Jun 30, 2021)

Thanks Mate


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## NCjeeper (Jun 30, 2021)

I made mine out of 2" aluminum tube


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## rwm (Jun 30, 2021)

I fee like brass is the easiest for the housing because you can solder the base on very easily. I suppose you could use Loctite for aluminum. 
Robert


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## NCjeeper (Jun 30, 2021)

rwm said:


> I suppose you could use Loctite for aluminum.
> Robert


I used 5 minute epoxy to hold the base to the body of mine. No leaks so far.


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## Squizz97 (Jul 1, 2021)

rwm said:


> I fee like brass is the easiest for the housing because you can solder the base on very easily. I suppose you could use Loctite for aluminum.
> Robert


Ive seen some youtube videos one bloke i watched used loctite to hold his together.


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## Karlito26 (Jul 1, 2021)

Squizz97 said:


> Gonna Have a go at making it. What is the easiest material to work with for making the oil can?


I think brass or aluminum is easiest but brass looks better. The hardest part for me was holding the tube itself. I used stainless steel. I put the bottom in the freezer and the tube in the oven. I mixed JB Weld and used that as a sealant.


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## NCjeeper (Jul 1, 2021)

Squizz97 said:


> Ive seen some youtube videos one bloke i watched used loctite to hold his together.


I first used loctite on mine. It held the base on fine but it didn't seal it and oil weeped out of the joint. The epoxy is working fine. no leaks and held on tight.


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## Cletus (Jul 3, 2021)

WOW!  That is beautiful!


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## watahyahknow (Sep 28, 2021)

nice , now i allso know theres no checkvalve in the tip of an oilcan , had a few arive here through the mail without the spout (it punched itself through the envelope ) , should be simple enough to make new ones with just a reduced hole on the end


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## brino (Sep 28, 2021)

@watahyahknow ,

Welcome to the group!

-brino


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## Tammy63 (Dec 29, 2022)

Found this on Youtube and the link took me here and now I found a awesome site to help with my skills..

Thanks!!


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## 7milesup (Dec 29, 2022)

Welcome Tammy!
This is one of the best machinist sites out on the big wide web.


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## Papa Charlie (Dec 30, 2022)

Tammy63 said:


> Found this on Youtube and the link took me here and now I found a awesome site to help with my skills..
> 
> Thanks!!


Welcome to the site. You will find a host of great people, projects and resources here.


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