# I hate the vice clamp on my 4x6 bandsaw.



## xalky (Nov 23, 2013)

I hate the vice clamp on my 4x6 bandsaw. 



I can't cut small pieces on it because of the floppy moveable jaw. I also think that the stationary, protractor jaw should be closer to the blade. Also that stationary jaw should be pushed back further to be able to use the maximum width of the blade opening, right close to the guide rollers. Plus, the clamping surface edge should be closer to the blade. Has anyone here tackled this problem? I don't want to reinvent the wheel, if someone else has already come up with a solution to this issue. I'm seriously thinking about making a whole new set of clamping surfaces for this piece of crap engineering debacle.  Anyone?


Marcel


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## David Kirtley (Nov 23, 2013)

Most common approach is to make some removable jaws that bolt on that you cut to length once attached.  Halligan142 here (same on youtube) has a little video series on fixing up his saw.

You can also attach a jack screw to the other side to even out the jaws. (I just put another piece of stock on the other side)


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## DAN_IN_MN (Nov 23, 2013)

xalky said:


> I hate the vice clamp on my 4x6 bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Marcel

How about putting a pin in the movable jaw that will keep it from rotating when you have a setup like this?  Is there any thickness of the nut under it where you could put a hole?

I'm sure you could put an extension on the stationary jaw to get it closer to the blade.    Face off this side, and drill and tap to put on some material.


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## Maxx (Nov 23, 2013)

I run into that often but haven't found the time to make new jaws, YET.
I usually forget until the next time comes along.

What I do is use some C channel on both sides and a jack/spacer in the back.


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## Pacer (Nov 23, 2013)

Google "4x6 bandsaw mods" and you will have more mods than you can get around to - including the probs that you have (they are common throughout these wonderful little saws)


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## Bill C. (Nov 23, 2013)

Pacer said:


> Google "4x6 bandsaw mods" and you will have more mods than you can get around to - including the probs that you have (they are common throughout these wonderful little saws)



One of my jobs in the first shop I worked in was cutting stock.  Even the larger saws have that problem.  I usually used the short stubby off-fall as a spacer.


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## Dave Smith (Nov 23, 2013)

xalky said:


> I hate the vice clamp on my 4x6 bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Marcel--just make two flat plates approx 3/8-to1/2 " thick longer than your current jaws--then thread a 1/2" hole in the back plate to use as an adjusting bolt to keep the plates even with your piece of metal to cut--then just slide them up close to the blade and after adjusting the rear bolt tighten up the vise on your product--and make the cut--you can just hang them on the side of the saw until you need them again---most of our tools require a few jigs to make them handier for special tasks-----Dave    ----:thinking:


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## Rbeckett (Nov 23, 2013)

Marcell,
Go to the 4X6 group and look at the files section for a vice mod that will allow you to make very small cuts accurately on you machine.  I cant remember the author, but it has been done and photos taken of the mod and it works very nicely for exactly the issue you are having.  If you cant find it PM me and I will find a link for you,.

Bob


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## Maxx (Nov 23, 2013)

I forgot to add that the C channel gives 2 more contact points on short round stock to help keep it from rotating during the cut.


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## xalky (Nov 23, 2013)

Awesome guys. Thanks.   Good...Then I don't have to reinvent the wheel. 

Bob. Thanks for pointing me out to the 4x6 bandsaw sticky. I didn't even know it was there! I typically hit the "new posts" button, I don't pay much attention to the categories. 

Here's the link guys if you don't already know where it is. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/87-Show-us-your-HF-4x6-Bandsaw-Modifications!

This is gonna a be a fun little project. It looks like I don't have to make a whole new set of jaws after all, but I think I will make a new longer jaw for the moveable side so that I can implement that jack rod idea. 


Marcel


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## blacksmithden (Nov 23, 2013)

Bill C. said:


> One of my jobs in the first shop I worked in was cutting stock.  Even the larger saws have that problem.  I usually used the short stubby off-fall as a spacer.



^^^ THIS ^^^


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## jgedde (Nov 23, 2013)

xalky said:


> I hate the vice clamp on my 4x6 bandsaw.
> 
> I can't cut small pieces on it because of the floppy moveable jaw. I also think that the stationary, protractor jaw should be closer to the blade. Also that stationary jaw should be pushed back further to be able to use the maximum width of the blade opening, right close to the guide rollers. Plus, the clamping surface edge should be closer to the blade. Has anyone here tackled this problem? I don't want to reinvent the wheel, if someone else has already come up with a solution to this issue. I'm seriously thinking about making a whole new set of clamping surfaces for this piece of crap engineering debacle.  Anyone?
> 
> ...



Marcel,

Here's what I did with mine....




John


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## xalky (Nov 23, 2013)

You see all the room there is to the right of the fixed jaw? I know that it's there for when we need to angle it, but sometimes that extra width would be helpful when cutting some wider stuff. That's not the biggest issue, but what the hell, while I'm at it, myswell !


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## valleyboy101 (Nov 23, 2013)

I have a larger Startrite bandsaw and we all have the same problem.  I have 2 solutions for cutting short or irregular pieces.  When cutting pieces like you show in the picture I use the step blocks from my hold down set on the other end of the jaws.  If it is larger piece I use 2 threaded rod from my hold down set with a coupling nut between them to adjust the back of the jaws just a little wider than the blade side.
Another handy accessory is a 4 x 6" plate of 1/2 " steel with several 1/2" holes in it for the bolts of hold down clamps.  This allows me to clamp down almost any small or irregular sized pieces.
Hope this helps,
Michael


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## David Kirtley (Nov 23, 2013)

xalky said:


> You see all the room there is to the right of the fixed jaw? I know that it's there for when we need to angle it, but sometimes that extra width would be helpful when cutting some wider stuff. That's not the biggest issue, but what the hell, while I'm at it, myswell !



Make a slot so it can slide out of the way for miter cuts.


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## Maxx (Nov 23, 2013)

valleyboy101 said:


> I have a larger Startrite bandsaw and we all have the same problem.  I have 2 solutions for cutting short or irregular pieces.  When cutting pieces like you show in the picture I use the step blocks from my hold down set on the other end of the jaws.  If it is larger piece I use 2 threaded rod from my hold down set with a coupling nut between them to adjust the back of the jaws just a little wider than the blade side.
> Another handy accessory is a 4 x 6" plate of 1/2 " steel with several 1/2" holes in it for the bolts of hold down clamps.  This allows me to clamp down almost any small or irregular sized pieces.
> Hope this helps,
> Michael


Reminds me of a cutting fixture I made when I was rebuilding my corn head.
I needed a bunch of flat washers to be cut flat on one side for clearance reasons so I took a chunk of C channel and welded a bolt to it placed small stacks of washers on the bolt and tightened them down with a nut for cutting.
Worked out slick.


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## n3480h (Nov 23, 2013)

I was given a Delta just like the one shown here.  It has been extremely useful, especially since it can cut horizontally and vertically.  However, I have the same jaw issues, and have used drops or step blocks to get a good clamp up.  Next summer I will replace bearings, make a chip pan, strip and repaint, and other improvements to this great little saw that refuses to die.  Its worth a little work and upkeep.

Tom


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## xalky (Nov 24, 2013)

I really like these ideas. This will solve the short piece dilemma. I also like the vertical table. I lost my table years ago and I never took the time to make a new one. I also like the quick t-handle on the moveable clamp, but I'm gonna make 2 more for the fixed jaw to make it easy to move ,adjust , or remove the vice completely when doing large pieces. 
.


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## jgedde (Nov 24, 2013)

valleyboy101 said:


> I have a larger Startrite bandsaw and we all have the same problem.  I have 2 solutions for cutting short or irregular pieces.  When cutting pieces like you show in the picture I use the step blocks from my hold down set on the other end of the jaws.  If it is larger piece I use 2 threaded rod from my hold down set with a coupling nut between them to adjust the back of the jaws just a little wider than the blade side.
> Another handy accessory is a 4 x 6" plate of 1/2 " steel with several 1/2" holes in it for the bolts of hold down clamps.  This allows me to clamp down almost any small or irregular sized pieces.
> Hope this helps,
> Michael




Now that's a great idea!  Another use for step blocks...

John


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## ridgeway (Nov 24, 2013)

Simply insert the same size stock in the other end of the vise.  This will prevent the vise from twisting.  Fast and simple work around.


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## xalky (Nov 24, 2013)

ridgeway said:


> Simply insert the same size stock in the other end of the vise.  This will prevent the vise from twisting.  Fast and simple work around.


 That only works if you actually have a piece of the same stock. More often than not, I'm shimming it with 2x4s and the like. The whole point is to make it quicker and easier. I've got a million workarounds but they all suck and they're time consuming.  When I'm in the middle of building something, nothing burns me more than taking 4 times longer than it should because of a cheesy piece of equipment. I could mill out a v-block with a hacksaw and a file, but I really don't want to.:vomit:


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## LJP (Nov 24, 2013)

Another simple solution to the small part problem. 
Use a small drill press vise, clamped into the regular vise. you should be able to get right up close.
I agree the back jaw wastes space, I am going to move mine as well.
Larry


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## road (Nov 24, 2013)

This is some great info, I think I will use the jack screw idea for my saw..

just have to find a reasonable sized thread  for quick movement.


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## george wilson (Nov 25, 2013)

I have a Dayton 4x6 I bought used in the 70's. It was my only bandsaw for several years. I drilled and tapped some holes in the cast iron surface the metal rests on (the bed of the saw). I can use step blocks and clamps from my milling machine to hold short stock,and also to clamp down blocks of metal that I want to saw off at an angle,like 45 degrees on a corner. It has worked out fine. That little saw still runs,and though I have a contour saw and a Roll In band saw(a super nice machine),I still use the little bandsaw to saw off bars of metal. It is just handier than my larger saws. Mine might be USA made. I can't find any info on it about being Asian. It just says Dayton,and was used even in the early 70's.


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## xalky (Nov 26, 2013)

Here's what I did today. I made the v- block/ short piece holder but with my own twist on it. Shown here holding a 2" dia. x 1 1/2" long round stock



The v block is removable to hold square pieces, it just slides right over the studs. No need to have a different setup on the other end for fllat/squrae pieces. I also like the fact that i can setup the angle in the jig for short pieces. I added wing nuts on the clamp ends for quick turn down. The final tightening happens with the center bolt. I made all the studs and bolts 5/16" just like the bolts that hold the vice together on the band saw. This allowed me to make up this purpose built 1/2" socket T-wrench which is only for the band saw. The T-wrench turns everything vice related.



 Showing the same T-wrench on the vice bolts.



Shown here taking a thin slice off the round bar stock.





I think I'm also gonna make a front panel below where the saw dust falls to keep the dust out of the shelf area. Next I'm gonna make a table to be able to use it as a vertical band saw. I lost my table in the divorce. She wanted half of everything, so I gave her the table.:LOL:


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## darkzero (Nov 26, 2013)

Nice v-block clamp. I think I'll need to make one of those myself too.




xalky said:


> I think I'm also gonna make a front panel below where the saw dust falls to keep the dust out of the shelf area.



I made a simple tray using a thick aluminum baking pan from Walmart. Doesn't catch 100% of the chips but I'm very happy with it & it sure beats using a cardboard box that I used to use.


http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...4x6-Bandsaw-Mods?p=91131&viewfull=1#post91131






As for the jaws, I drilled & tapped new holes to move the larger jaw closer to the blade. Downside is I'd have to move it back to it's original posistion for angle cuts which I rarely do anyway. There's a few times I needed something closer but this has been working out great for me so far.





Before


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## scwhite (Apr 15, 2017)

darkzero said:


> Nice v-block clamp. I think I'll need to make one of those myself too.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## scwhite (Apr 15, 2017)

I just bought this 6-1/2 x 10" Grizzly band saw


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## BROCKWOOD (May 28, 2017)

Lots of great ideas here!  Mine is perhaps the simplest of all.  It does require looking for an item the same width for the other end of the clamp as mentioned above.  I could remove the plate from the adjustable side - but have not found a need for that extra 1/4" of width yet.  I will be using some of the ideas on this thread!!! Till then, this works for me.


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## wawoodman (May 28, 2017)

I tapped a hole in the back of the moveable jaw, and thread a bolt through it when needed.


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## BROCKWOOD (May 28, 2017)

wawoodman said:


> I tapped a hole in the back of the moveable jaw, and thread a bolt through it when needed.



And simply adjust it to the width you need! BRILLIANT!  Loving this site more each day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## hman (May 28, 2017)

wawoodman said:


> I tapped a hole in the back of the moveable jaw, and thread a bolt through it when needed.


Rick Sparber (a forum member) has done this and even made it a "speed thread" - drilling a clearance diameter at an angle to the threads.  Tilting the bolt allows you to slide it in and out, then bringing it back to perpendicular engages the threads.

Here are a couple of Rick's other goodies for sawing odd and short pieces:
http://rick.sparber.org/HVJA.pdf
http://rick.sparber.org/sss.pdf


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## BROCKWOOD (May 28, 2017)

H man pulled out all stops with Rick's approach! BRILLIANT


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## 4GSR (May 28, 2017)

I had the issue of not being able to cut off a piece of material 7" in diameter on my 4 x 6 bandsaw.  The vise would not open up enough to allow the piece of material to fit.  So I took the fixed jaw and moved it back about 3/4" back and at the same time closer to the blade.  Drilled and tapped two new holes for the fixed jaw.  I very seldon make any angle cuts.  If I do, just reposition the jaw for those cuts.  Now I can 7" OD about two thirds the way thru. Stop, rotate the material about 180 degrees, realign the saw cut and continue cutting.  It get's me by for now.


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