# Made A Quick Release Tool Post Handle



## GarageGuy (Apr 16, 2015)

I made a quick release handle for my QCTP this week.  It is a BXA tool post with a 16mm bolt in the center.  I had to buy a 14.5mm tap drill and 16mm 1.5 thread pitch tap to thread it.  The rod for the handle is 5/8" redi-rod from Home Depot, but it threaded for 16mm very nicely.  As with most things I make, it is a little overkill for size, but it works great.  I tried to make the brass knob similar in shape to the one on the tool post.  It turned out so nice, I may make another small one for the tool post so they match.  I was pleased that the spacing turned out so well.  My knuckles have plenty of room between the handles.

GG


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## RVJimD (Apr 16, 2015)

GG,

Nice!  Just the other day I had the wife grab me a 19mm offset box end wrench to fit my AXA.  I cut off the opposite end and smoothed it up on the scotchbrite wheel.  But I still think about doing something like you have!

Did you put a flat on the rod in order to tighten it into the post?  And, how do you tighten the knob without garfing it up?

Jim


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## GarageGuy (Apr 16, 2015)

Thank you.  I have some small pieces of copper sheet that I use to protect anything precision or pretty.  Then I use a big channel lock pliers.  Aluminum would work just as well.

GG


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## RJSakowski (Apr 16, 2015)

GarageGuy said:


> I made a quick release handle for my QCTP this week.  It is a BXA tool post with a 16mm bolt in the center.  I had to buy a 14.5mm tap drill and 16mm 1.5 thread pitch tap to thread it.  The rod for the handle is 5/8" redi-rod from Home Depot, but it threaded for 16mm very nicely.  As with most things I make, it is a little overkill for size, but it works great.  I tried to make the brass knob similar in shape to the one on the tool post.  It turned out so nice, I may make another small one for the tool post so they match.  I was pleased that the spacing turned out so well.  My knuckles have plenty of room between the handles.
> 
> GG
> 
> View attachment 99690


It is a pretty piece of work!  How did you determine the position of the lever on the nut?


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## GarageGuy (Apr 16, 2015)

I made the nut first, and threaded it onto the tool post.  Then I tightened it with my channel lock and copper shims so it would be as close as possible to where it would be when I was using it.  Then I put a center punch mark where I wanted the handle to be located.  

It was harder trying to figure out the angle of the handle so the two wouldn't interfere with each other, or so I wouldn't mash my knuckles every time I changed cutting tools.  I clamped the top nut in my mill vise, and made my best guess.  It was an awkward angle to drill, but turned out to be the right one ergonomically.

GG


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## RJSakowski (Apr 16, 2015)

GarageGuy said:


> I made the nut first, and threaded it onto the tool post.  Then I tightened it with my channel lock and copper shims so it would be as close as possible to where it would be when I was using it.  Then I put a center punch mark where I wanted the handle to be located.
> 
> It was harder trying to figure out the angle of the handle so the two wouldn't interfere with each other, or so I wouldn't mash my knuckles every time I changed cutting tools.  I clamped the top nut in my mill vise, and made my best guess.  It was an awkward angle to drill, but turned out to be the right one ergonomically.
> 
> GG


Well it certainly looks like you got the angle right.  I was thinking that would be how you would position the lever.  Another way would be to make the nut a half thread pitch over length and face it down to get the lever position where you want it.  If ended up on the other side, you could rotate the tee nut a half turn.  Again it is sweet.  I'm with you about making a matching knob for the quick change lever.


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## mce5802 (Apr 16, 2015)

You must watch doubleboost's videos too. Was planning to make the same thing. Nice job.


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## GarageGuy (Apr 17, 2015)

mce5802 said:


> You must watch doubleboost's videos too. Was planning to make the same thing. Nice job.



I do enjoy his videos every week.    Thanks!

GG


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## roadie33 (Apr 17, 2015)

Which doubelboost video are you referring too?


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## GarageGuy (Apr 17, 2015)

He is from the UK, and has a YouTube channel where he does some machining, welding, and repairs.  He talks about tools he buys at "car boot sales".  He likes steam engines, hit & miss engines, tractor shows, old railroad, and historic sites.  Just recently he showed how he installed a DRO on his new (old) lathe.  He is a very genuine person with a wealth of mechanical knowledge.  It would be hard not to like him.  Here is a link to his channel:

https://www.youtube.com/user/doubleboost


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## roadie33 (Apr 17, 2015)

I've watched his video's and really like them. It just gets hard to understand what he is saying sometimes. 
I was actually referring to what video of his you were talking about exactly.


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## GarageGuy (Apr 17, 2015)

It's in his Sunday Night Nightcap 63 parts 1 & 2 videos.


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## machinistmarty (Apr 17, 2015)

Very nice, Don't think I would have bought a 14.5 drill though. 9/16 or 37/64 would have had to work for me.


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## GarageGuy (Apr 18, 2015)

I have a 37/64 drill bit, and I thought about doing that.  I already had all the metal, so that didn't cost me anything.  I spent $14 on a real nice 16mm HSS spiral flute tap, and the drill bit was only $8.50.  Those were my only expenses, so I figured I would shoot the works and get the exact one recommended.

GG


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## Chuck Torman (Apr 21, 2015)

Nice work, looks good GG. That is on my "to do list" for my G4003G, I too got the idea from doubleboost's video. I also do not like the position of the tool holder release handle on my QCTP so I intend to re-drill and re-tap the camshaft head to re-position that while I am at it. 
I recently substituted a Kipp adjustable clamping lever to the carriage lock replacing the original Allen head screw so that I would not have to have a loose Allen wrench lying about on the carriage. If anyone is interested the Kipp part no. for the handle is 06610-20886x50 (M8- 1.25x50 mm stud length) I had to build a spacer to go under the head of the handle (spacer dimensions are 1/2" OD, 21/64" bore, .200" thick), my spacer is made from brass but steel or aluminum would work just as well. I would rather have had an all metal handle rather than the plastic, but this was my first experience in purchasing a Kipp adjustable handle. I copied another member's idea from  here on the forum for this, but I can't remember who it was, wish that I could give him his due credit for the idea.   
Again, nice work.
Chuck


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## darkzero (Apr 21, 2015)

Chuck Torman said:


> I recently substituted a Kipp adjustable clamping lever to the carriage lock replacing the original Allen head screw so that I would not have to have a loose Allen wrench lying about on the carriage. If anyone is interested the Kipp part no. for the handle is 06610-20886x50 (M8- 1.25x50 mm stud length) I had to build a spacer to go under the head of the handle (spacer dimensions are 1/2" OD, 21/64" bore, .200" thick), my spacer is made from brass but steel or aluminum would work just as well. I would rather have had an all metal handle rather than the plastic, but this was my first experience in purchasing a Kipp adjustable handle. I copied another member's idea from here on the forum for this, but I can't remember who it was, wish that I could give him his due credit for the idea.



Not sure if it was me but I did start a trend on a number of PM1236s when I posted my install of one on my PM1236 in 2010. One of the first & best things I added to the lathe. I used a different style though, Kipp P/N 06430-3103X55. Mine is cast zinc with silver metallic powdercoat.


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## GarageGuy (Apr 21, 2015)

That IS a nice upgrade.  I had not seen it before, but it sure would be a big improvement over the socket head screw for the carriage lock.  Now I may have to make one of those too!  

GG


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## darkzero (Apr 21, 2015)

I had thought about making on too but the reason I choose to go with the Kipp is it's adjustable. Once locked, you can lift the handle & freely swing it to any position you want. I put them on my mill too. I have also seen people use these for the tool post instead of making a handle.


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## Chuck Torman (Apr 21, 2015)

Thank you DarkZero!  Yes, your post is where I copied the idea from, our lathes are very similar, and thank you for posting the part number for the zinc handle version, I like yours much better and will order one to replace the one that I am currently using, I am sure that I will find a use for the plastic handled one somewhere in the future.
This is a very worthwhile addition to my lathe, Thank you!  In the first photo that you posted I see a dial indicator on the bed way just beneath the chuck. How is that indicator mounted? is it on a magnet?  That is one of my next projects, a carriage stop and indicator mount. Several good ones have been posted on the forum, but I have not settled on a design yet.


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## GarageGuy (Apr 21, 2015)

Will, is the KIPP part number for yours a M8 bolt or a M10 bolt?  Mine has a M8 x 50mm.  Your part # listed as 55mm, which is fine if the diameter is M8.  

I mounted a DRO on my lathe, and the scale is close to the carriage lock bolt, so I want to make sure it will clear.  If not, I can still make one.

Thanks!

GG


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## darkzero (Apr 21, 2015)

Chuck Torman said:


> Thank you DarkZero! Yes, your post is where I copied the idea from, our lathes are very similar, and thank you for posting the part number for the zinc handle version, I like yours much better and will order one to replace the one that I am currently using, I am sure that I will find a use for the plastic handled one somewhere in the future.



No problem Chuck. Just note that for my lathe I needed M10x55mm so the equivelent P/N for the zinc according to what you posted would be 06430-2083X50 but please double check. They're also available in black & stainless steel. The SS ones are expensive but I like the silver zinc one better anyway as I think it matched my lathe better. Mcmaster also sells them. Not sure what brand they are, they're not Kipp but are still high quality. I used the Mcmaster ones on my mill.







Chuck Torman said:


> This is a very worthwhile addition to my lathe, Thank you! In the first photo that you posted I see a dial indicator on the bed way just beneath the chuck. How is that indicator mounted? is it on a magnet? That is one of my next projects, a carriage stop and indicator mount. Several good ones have been posted on the forum, but I have not settled on a design yet.



It's a magnetic back that can unscew. I used to use a 2" indicator before I installed a DRO. I still use the 1" Mitutoyo though for threading up to a shoulder. It's much easier to read an analog dial for times like that. Companies like Mitu & Starrett make them also but honestly I like these cheap ones much better. They cost about $7-$10 depending on where you get them from.







GarageGuy said:


> Will, is the KIPP part number for yours a M8 bolt or a M10 bolt? Mine has a M8 x 50mm. Your part # listed as 55mm, which is fine if the diameter is M8.
> 
> I mounted a DRO on my lathe, and the scale is close to the carriage lock bolt, so I want to make sure it will clear. If not, I can still make one.
> 
> ...



No problem. The P/N I used for mine is a M10 bolt, I just checked & my PM1236 does use a M10 bolt. I listed the P/N for M8x50mm above in this post but the following page has all the different P/Ns & specs: http://www.fixtureworks.net/Home/Te...30-3103X55/Default.aspx?thumbpath=thumbPath=6


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## darkzero (Apr 21, 2015)

Here's a quick pic I found on the net of one of the adjustable handles used on the QCTP. Seems like a good idea but all the ones I have seen people use look funny to me. They are available in different styles though. This is a small tool post, I bet one of these handles for a BXA size isn't cheap. But I like the look of GG's & similar styles better anyway.Probably work better too since it has better leverage.





I also though about using the adjustable handles on my compound but I didn't like the idea of stringy chips possible getting caught on them. On my old lathe I stripped the studs from tightening down the nuts so often (cheap China metal). On my current lathe I didn't strip them yet but I decided to replace the studs & nuts with SHCSs. I like it so much better using a hex key for the compound. I believe many larger lathes use SHCSs as well but are recessed. I highly recommend this mod, so much better than having to use a bulky open end wrench.


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## Chuck Torman (Apr 21, 2015)

GG, The original carriage lock screw on my Grizzly G4003G was a m8-1.25x55, but the Kipp handle that I used is a m8-1.25x50, because the original screw hole was counter bored for the entire head of the screw to be recessed below the surface of the carriage, the portion of the Kipp screw that we would normally think of as the head did not protrude far enough below the handle to completely fill the counter bore, so I made a .200" spacer washer to fill the difference and allow the handle to clear the carriage surface and rotate freely. the bottom end of the screw stud portion of the Kipp handle comes flush with the very bottom surface of the carriage housing on my lathe, so I am getting full thread contact the entire depth of my carriage. Sorry for any confusion regarding screw stud length, Grizzly list that screw on their website parts breakdown as a m8-1.25x60. I did not pay attention to the original screw that I removed as to how much it protruded below the bottom of the carriage, I only know that I am now getting complete thread engagement. Since your lathe is a different brand etc., I would assume that yours might very well be different than mine. Thank you for sharing your work and ideas with the rest of us, 
Chuck


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## Chuck Torman (Apr 21, 2015)

darkzero said:


> Here's a quick pic I found on the net of one of the adjustable handles used on the QCTP. Seems like a good idea but all the ones I have seen people use look funny to me. They are available in different styles though. This is a small tool post, I bet one of these handles for a BXA size isn't cheap. But I like the look of GG's & similar styles better anyway.Probably work better too since it has better leverage.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Another great idea, I don't like the hex head cap screws on mine either.
Chuck


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## darkzero (Apr 21, 2015)

Good point Chuck. Another reason I went with the one I did is it was the only other style I liked with an appropiate size the would have fit in the counterbore on my carriage. I originally wanted a different style but the shoulder was too large to fit. Stupid me, I have a lathe duh, I could have turned it down to fit but that's ok, I'm still happy with the one I got.


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## planeflyer21 (Apr 24, 2015)

roadie33 said:


> I've watched his video's and really like them. It just gets hard to understand what he is saying sometimes.
> I was actually referring to what video of his you were talking about exactly.



 Was watching one of his videos, wifey says "I can't understand what he's saying."

So I repeated "If you're cutting a long piece and it is bigger at one end than on the other, you may have to level your bed.  Perhaps you might even need to adjust how your headstock is mounted to the bed."

Wifey says "I don't know what that means."


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## GarageGuy (Apr 25, 2015)

darkzero said:


> No problem. The P/N I used for mine is a M10 bolt, I just checked & my PM1236 does use a M10 bolt. I listed the P/N for M8x50mm above in this post but the following page has all the different P/Ns & specs: http://www.fixtureworks.net/Home/Te...30-3103X55/Default.aspx?thumbpath=thumbPath=6



Thank you for the link, Will.  Under $10 is an awesome price.



Chuck Torman said:


> GG, The original carriage lock screw on my Grizzly G4003G was a m8-1.25x55, but the Kipp handle that I used is a m8-1.25x50, because the original screw hole was counter bored for the entire head of the screw to be recessed below the surface of the carriage, the portion of the Kipp screw that we would normally think of as the head did not protrude far enough below the handle to completely fill the counter bore, so I made a .200" spacer washer to fill the difference and allow the handle to clear the carriage surface and rotate freely. the bottom end of the screw stud portion of the Kipp handle comes flush with the very bottom surface of the carriage housing on my lathe, so I am getting full thread contact the entire depth of my carriage. Sorry for any confusion regarding screw stud length, Grizzly list that screw on their website parts breakdown as a m8-1.25x60. I did not pay attention to the original screw that I removed as to how much it protruded below the bottom of the carriage, I only know that I am now getting complete thread engagement. Since your lathe is a different brand etc., I would assume that yours might very well be different than mine. Thank you for sharing your work and ideas with the rest of us,
> Chuck



Thanks Chuck.  It sounds like my lathe is similar to yours.  The cap head bolt for my carriage lock is recessed too.  I was also thinking that a longer bolt with a spacer would be the best approach.  The price is so reasonable that I'll buy one, and even if it doesn't fit, I'll find another use for it.

Thanks guys!

GG


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