# What Is An Craftsman 101.2048?



## matthew-s (Nov 17, 2015)

Minimally I know it's a 6 X 18 lathe. I've found only one or two references to that specific model number on the interwebs. 

Can anyone tell me anything about it? How does it differ from the other seemingly more common model numbers?

Thanks!


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## Mondo (Nov 17, 2015)

The "101." indicates it was manufactured by Atlas Press Co. in Kalamazoo Michigan.  Will have manual cross-feed.  I don't have that model so I know only tid-bits about it.  I see lots of parts available on E-Bay.

Check this site:  http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas6inch/

Spiral_Chips
PS: Another page to review: http://www.lathes.co.uk/craftsman6inchmk1/


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## matthew-s (Nov 17, 2015)

Thanks. I had found those pages.  One of them acknowledges 2048, but does not indicate what is unique about that model. 

I can at least tell it has the sleeve rather than roller bearings. 

Power cross feed is for facing correct?  I believe all of these had power carriage feed for threading, right?


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## Heavycrimp (Nov 17, 2015)

Yes, using loose change gears.  Atlas did not offer a QC box on their 6" lathes.  There is an old article that I believe was published in Popular Mechanics of a home built quick-change but it hardly seems worth the effort.


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## wa5cab (Nov 17, 2015)

Mathew,

There is no such thing as a "101.2048".  "2048" is the important or unchanging part of the Sears Catalog Number for the Atlas built 101.07301.  Which is the 6x18 lathe with 1"-8 spindle nose threads and sleeve spindle bearings that Atlas built for Sears from 1939 through 1957 (catalog year).  The characters shown in the catalogs prefixed to the 4-digit or five digit number (like 99 PM, 99 AM, etc. ) define some things like shipping requirements (i.e., Motor Freight only, etc.) and those codes sometimes changed over the years.  But the all numeric part of the catalog number usually didn't change unless the model number also changed.  It wasn't until sometime around the end of WW2 that Sears started using catalog numbers that partially matched the model numbers.  This was not changed retroactively and the earliest Atlas machines that I know of that were done this way are 99 AM 2743 for the 101.27430 12x24 and 99 AM 2744 for the 101.27440 12x36 (the two early 12" with QCGB) and the QCGB itself, 99 A 02014 for 101.20140.  That was in the 1951 catalogs.  This was also the first time that they assigned unique catalog numbers to different bed lengths.  Prior to that, for example, 101.07403 was the model number for the 12" Timken bearing lathe with power cross feed, regardless of whether it had a 36", 42", 48" or 54" bed.


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## Mondo (Nov 17, 2015)

Hello Robert D.
You said:  "_There is no such thing as a "101.2048"._"

Can you comment on this passage: "The maker's Type designations used on these machines included: 101.20140, *101.2048*, 101.2048F, 101.2120, 101.2140 and 101.M1518 (for a special mica undercut version for electric repair-shop use) and the very early (and rather different) Type 101.07300 and 101.0730 etc) that employed an integral countershaft unit." ?

from http://www.lathes.co.uk/craftsman6inchmk1/

Spiral_Chips


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## wa5cab (Nov 17, 2015)

Yep.  First, the "Maker" associated with "101" was Atlas.  "101" is a Sears Roebuck & Co Contractor Code.  And Atlas never used any Model numbers that included "101.".  So some of the numbers are the retailer's model numbers.and the rest aren't as written anything.

Second, aside from the short-lived 101.07300 (only one year, a machine with a 3/4"-16 spindle nose threads and no back gears) and 101.20140 (the first of three QCGB retrofit kits for 12" lathes built by Atlas and sold by Sears), I don't know how they came up with the rest.  As I wrote earlier, 2048 is the numeric part of the catalog # for the 101.07301 (Model #).  2048F I have no idea.  9H 2120N is the 1st catalog # for the 101.21200 which is the same as the Atlas 3950.  99KT 2140N is one of the catalog #'s used for the 101.21400 which is the same as the Atlas 618.  101.M1518 I have no idea.  101.0730 might be really 109.0703. the first AA 6" which unlike most, was a 6x18.  Otherwise, I don't know.

Third, it's mostly all wrong.  Like the impression that the first MK2 6" had a Zamak headstock, which it was actually the last few.


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## matthew-s (Nov 17, 2015)

Wow. Thanks for all that.  So I suspect what I'm looking at is a 101.07301 then.  I'm headed to look at it tonight.  Any recommendations on what to check knowing I don't have a dial indicator or other tools with me?


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## wa5cab (Nov 17, 2015)

Sorry, I didn't get back in here in time for you to read anything before you left for the look-see.  But you really do need both a 0-1" micrometer and a dial indicator set in order to accurately determine spindle and bed condition.


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## matthew-s (Nov 17, 2015)

Well, maybe I got over excited but I committed to buy, leaving a deposit.  It was very well cared for, sold by the original owner who has had it since high school. It seemed legit. 

I have a dial indicator on a clamp (rather than magnetic) base.  I suppose I could put a drill bit in the chuck and see what the runout looks like?

Any other easy / non destructive tests?


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## wa5cab (Nov 17, 2015)

Well, as you are now committed, there's no point in going back over there for any measurements.  Wait until you get the machine home.

First thing to do after you get it home and if necessary clean it up a little is to remove the chuck from the spindle.  After you've done that, take a length of 1/2" dia. solid round stock and run it through the spindle.  Set up and zero the dial indicator on the spindle register.  That is the unthreaded area between the spindle threads and flange.  Pick up on the rod and note the indicator reading.  rotate the spindle 90 deg. and repeat.  With used sleeve bearings you will probably get some movement.  But the two readings should be the same.  Then try tightening the slotted head screw just a little and repeat.

To check for bed wear, you will have to have a 0-1 micrometer.  Carefully clean off the top and bottom, and front and rear,  of the front way at the right end and again about 6" in front of the spindle nose.  Measure the thickness near the front edge of the way.  The difference is the front bed wear as the right end should still be as new.  Repeat in the same locations near the rear edge of the rear way.  Then measure the width of the front and rear way in approximately the same locations.

Visually inspect the lead screw threads toward the right end and about where the halfnuts would be with the center of the saddle about 6" from the spindle nose.  Position the carriage as before (center of carriage about 6" from spindle), set up the dial indicator to measure left-right carriage movement.  Close the half nuts and rock the carriage back and fourth.  Move the carriage to the right end and repeat.  The difference in movement readings is approximately the lead screw wear.

Be sure that you go through the full lubrication instructions and then turn the spindle over several times before you first run the machine.

There are many other checks but those will be you started.


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## matthew-s (Nov 18, 2015)

Thanks.  For some reason I got a good feeling about it.  Machine was pretty clean. Did not look like it was used a ton. Even the original manuals were there and in Excellent condition.   

If there is a major check I could do with a dial indicator when there, I could.  I have a low deposit on it.


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## wa5cab (Nov 18, 2015)

Well, you could mount your dial indicator to the carriage or compound and set it to indicate on the top of the unworn part of the front way.  Zero it with the carriage as far to the right as it will go.  Then run the carriage over towards the headstock.  That should give you nearly the same reading as mikeing the way thickness.  And you could do the same along the rear of the rear way but here, you will need to pull toward you on the tool post as you traverse the carriage in order to keep the carriage gib against the edge of the way.  And if you can get the chuck off, you could mount the indicator to the compound and check movement and runout of the spindle.  Note that I do not know what type of clamping arrangement you have on your dial indicator.  I'm just assuming that once clamped, you can then move the indicator around to bear on whatever you want it to bear on.


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## matthew-s (Nov 27, 2015)

Ok, so an update.

I picked up a Brown & Sharpe DTI and magnetic stand combo from Enco. 

The DTI is great.  Stand is sort of crappy. 

The inside of the spindle is right around .0.001 runout.  Maybe slightly more. 

The runout measures at the base of the spindle threads, on the polished step near the bearing is < 0.001.  Probably around 0.0005

Letting the DTI take a ride down the ways on the carriage tells me that they vary by <0.002 end to end (probably closer to 0.0015). 

From what I'd gather, this is a pretty typical example, no?


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## wa5cab (Nov 27, 2015)

It's typical for the spindle and pretty good for the bed on a used lathe.


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## matthew-s (Nov 27, 2015)

Thanks.  So far so good.  It will take me a while to get it up and running.   I need be make a bench for it, but I have at least one other project I need to complete before that.


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## my machine shop (Nov 27, 2015)

Sound like it should be fine. Tooling that fits the newer machines can vary. Make sure you get 1-8 mount chucks. Other accessories will be fine. Drawbar for collets and end mill holder is different than the 618. the spindle is longer on the old plain bearing models.


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## matthew-s (Nov 27, 2015)

Thanks for the heads up on tooling. It came with a 4 jaw chuck, a few collets, misc hss tooling, a few boring bars, a Jacobs-style chucks for the headstock and tail stock, as well as dead centers for both. 

I suppose enough stuff to get me started!


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