# Recommended Clamps For Kurt Vise



## Susan_in_SF (Nov 24, 2018)

Hi guys,
Despite my love of vintage machinery, i am still keeping my 1976 Taiwanese Jet mill drill due to money and space constraints (1 car garage).  I have been wanting a Kurt vise for my mill drill for quite awhile, but they were always too expensive.  

Since my milling table is only 9-3/8" x 23-1/2" and since I cannot lift heavy items (rheumatoid arthritis), I picked up a small cheap import 4" milling vise awhile ago. It works ok, but I know the quality is nowhere nears a Kurt.  Plus, I am aware of how some of these import vises have tons of filler in it to make it look like it's not crap.

Here is a pic of my little old mill drill, for the heck of it.  

**A random tidbit I like the fact that my Jet mill drill is so old, it has a metal pulley cover instead of usual plastic that most later made mill drills have.**


The same old guy who I recently bought my Baldor carbide grinder from advertised on craigslist a 4" Kurt vise, with handle, for $195.  I called him because I was interested in buying it.  It was then that he found out that he mistakenly posted the vise for $195, instead of his intended $295.  However, since he liked me, he said, "I'll let you have this $400 vise for $195.  You know they normally sell for $400, right?"  I played along, and said yes (by the way, this seller just resells items, like this vise, that he buys at machine shop auctions.) Before I called him for this vise, I did research on the vise model.  I will just say that the retail price is way more than $400 ;-)  .

The vise model is PT400A, an Ang Lock vise made for CNC's, whatever that means.  I like the fact that I could mount this vise sideways or vertically, if I wanted.  Here are some pictures of the vise:




Unlike the Kurt D series vises, which had vertical round clamp holes sticking out on the side of the vise, this vise has rectangular horizontal facing holes within the vise body. 

I could still clamp this vise down without your input, but I thought I'd ask you wiser experienced folks what would you recommend for clamping down this vise, if there is a better way then the typical hold downs.  

Also, is there any reason to not buy this model vise, in your opinion?

Thank you, in advance, for your friendly responses to my all my long winded postings where I write a book on my life before getting to the point or where I start out with one question and end up asking 20 ;-)
Susan


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## Eddyde (Nov 24, 2018)

Buy it! That's a real nice vise as you can also mount it on it's side or end if necessary. Here is what Kurt recommends for mounting https://www.kurtworkholding.com/toe-clamping-kit-p-3258.html
Personally I wouldn't shell out that kind of dough, I'd make my own version.


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## Cadillac (Nov 24, 2018)

Looks like a nice vise. Like a grinding vise where you can put on any side and it be square and parallel.  If we’re me I’d make 2 pairs of hold downs exactly the same. A L on its side let’s say. Horizontal at least .500 thick about 2-3” long. Pop a hole for your stud size. Vertical leg i would measure the thickness of the base of vice and add maybe .050-.100. Make it so vertical is wide enough to span keyway slot by at least a .500 on both sides of slot. Hopefully each recess in vise is same height so can be used in any position.


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## mmcmdl (Nov 24, 2018)

I see a future projectile in your mill/drill pic ! Chuck key in the chuck .


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## JimDawson (Nov 24, 2018)

You can use anything to clamp the vice down.  An extra thick washer, a cap screw, a t-nut, and a spacer on each side would work well.  You could also make some special stepped clamps, a nice little milling project.


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## Ulma Doctor (Nov 24, 2018)

you could use the clamps from a standard milling clamp set to affix the vise to the table,
OR
Make your own clamps from mild steel

here is a 12mm set on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/58pc-M12-S...ING-SET-KIT-BRIDGEPORT-MILL-FS1-/162689435722

or this set from PM
http://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/52-pc-clamping-kit-for-12mm-12-t-slots/


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## PT Doc (Nov 24, 2018)

That is begging for a small step clamp. Or 4.


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## PT Doc (Nov 24, 2018)

Or just buy them.


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## PT Doc (Nov 24, 2018)

What is the height of the bottom of the step? Height of the whole step?


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## Susan_in_SF (Nov 26, 2018)

I took a couple of pics tonight.  Hopefully the pics will tell you.
	

		
			
		

		
	




It looks like the side holes are 2" wide and 3/4" tall and is 1/2" from bottom of the vise.


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## Susan_in_SF (Nov 26, 2018)

PT Doc said:


> View attachment 280693
> 
> 
> Or just buy them.


Omg.  I already feel guilty buying the vise for myself when I haven't done any Christmas shopping for my kids yet, lol.  Maybe I'll ask Santa to give me this for Christmas  ;-)


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## Cadillac (Nov 26, 2018)

Susan_in_SF said:


> Omg.  I already feel guilty buying the vise for myself when I haven't done any Christmas shopping for my kids yet, lol.  Maybe I'll ask Santa to give me this for Christmas  ;-)


Just give one of the kids the vise and make the holdowns for another. Then just borrow them and don’t give back.just like my 6yr old does every time he comes in the garage


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## BROCKWOOD (Nov 26, 2018)

That's funny Cadillac! I've tried to give my Dad his old hammer back.  He just grins & says, "Son, you've had it for 45 years - my as well keep it."


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## Radials (Dec 6, 2018)

As Eddyde said, I would make your own. I needed many of these at work and made a whole batch from some bar stock. I find these much better than the typical hold down hardware because they are far more compact and don't tie the hardware up. 

Nick


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## Susan_in_SF (Dec 7, 2018)

Radials said:


> As Eddyde said, I would make your own. I needed many of these at work and made a whole batch from some bar stock. I find these much better than the typical hold down hardware because they are far more compact and don't tie the hardware up.
> 
> Nick


Thanks for the pic Nick!  Pic Nick, lol ;-)


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## homebrewed (Dec 7, 2018)

I made some like Nick's, but used allen head screws & counter-bored the hold downs so the screw heads are flush with the top of each hold down.  I thought I was making them look "nice" but that was a mistake -- swarf fills the allen head and also gets between the screw head and counter bore pocket.  Something to keep in mind if you make your own.


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## Susan_in_SF (Dec 7, 2018)

homebrewed said:


> I made some like Nick's, but used allen head screws & counter-bored the hold downs so the screw heads are flush with the top of each hold down.  I thought I was making them look "nice" but that was a mistake -- swarf fills the allen head and also gets between the screw head and counter bore pocket.  Something to keep in mind if you make your own.


Thank you , Homebrewed, for the tip


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## Radials (Dec 8, 2018)

homebrewed said:


> I made some like Nick's, but used allen head screws & counter-bored the hold downs so the screw heads are flush with the top of each hold down.  I thought I was making them look "nice" but that was a mistake -- swarf fills the allen head and also gets between the screw head and counter bore pocket.  Something to keep in mind if you make your own.



Perhaps some small rectangle cuts of flexible magnet strips to cover the tops of your clamps would help. Maybe they'll be just strong enough to hold themselves in place but weak enough to allow you to brush the chips off the top of them. 

Nick


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## homebrewed (Dec 8, 2018)

Radials said:


> Perhaps some small rectangle cuts of flexible magnet strips to cover the tops of your clamps would help. Maybe they'll be just strong enough to hold themselves in place but weak enough to allow you to brush the chips off the top of them.



That might work, maybe not -- I made the hold downs out of 6061 aluminum, so the force would just be between the bolt head and magnet strip.  Still, it might be sufficient.  Magnetic strips can be had in a Halbach configuration, which minimizes the magnetic field on one side --  helpful to avoid attracting ferrous swarf.


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## kd4gij (Dec 8, 2018)

I have to agree. Make a couple toe clamps. You have the tools for that.


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