# Hardinge TR-59 Restoration



## Braeden P (Apr 14, 2021)

It begins the longest rebuild on the site I got the doors pulled of the collet close and miscellaneous parts paint stripper only this lathe is from the 1941 so high chance it has lead paint not risking it buy using a wire wheel. Pics to come


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## Braeden P (Apr 14, 2021)

Here are some pics


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## Braeden P (Apr 14, 2021)

You will not believe I took out the oil tank that is really gross and I found the oil dauber! The dirty one is the one I found the nice one I got off of fleabay it is a later model


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## Braeden P (Jun 17, 2021)

Tons of work today! Had to use a 2 ton jack to remove the pin from the collet closer! And the worst part…asbestos on the electric box! If I try to remove it it would get everywhere so what should I coat it in to stop any from getting airborne?


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## Janderso (Jun 17, 2021)

You do have your work cut out for you.
What collet system did they use back then?


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## Steve-F (Jun 17, 2021)

Looking Good! It will be a peach when you finish!


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## Braeden P (Jun 17, 2021)

Janderso said:


> You do have your work cut out for you.
> What collet system did they use back then?


The pin in the linkage was stuck


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## Braeden P (Jul 11, 2021)

The cabinet and doors are primed!


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## Braeden P (Jul 20, 2021)

Got some filler on the front! Front of the lathe is down to metal and some filler the back needs a bit more work.


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## FOMOGO (Jul 20, 2021)

Looking good Braedon. Mike


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## Braeden P (Jul 21, 2021)

Put on the second coat and got the headstock!


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## Braeden P (Sep 25, 2021)

Here is the worm wheel and the shafts. Worm wheel is completely worn and has a tooth missing (the one right above the key way) the shafts are chipped too.


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## Braeden P (Sep 26, 2021)

I have off on the 11th so my neighbor will bring me to his friends gear shop to get a new one made. I will also get new pulleys since the old ones are chipped and not very useable. Five of the six bearings are timken bearings of the same size. The one that is bigger has no name or markings. All of the gaskets were asbestos gaskets so I removed them carefully and I will have to make new ones.


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## Braeden P (Oct 12, 2021)

The gears are at the shop, since they are Boston gears they will order one but since the gear is not a normal worm wheel they might make one. The shop has 3 1950s fellows gear shapers and a 1991 fellows that is cnc. they have 5 gear hobbers in different sizes one being cnc. they have at least 500 hobs from 1/2 inch diameter to 4 inch diameter hobs. such a cool place to see and I dont have pictures because I forgot my phone.


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## Braeden P (Oct 12, 2021)

Here is their website https://www.aagearinc.com/about
when we were there they were making timing sprockets for Toyota racing, nylon idler gears for a doughnut filling machine, and were getting ready to make gears for a Boeing 767.


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## Weldingrod1 (Oct 13, 2021)

Sounds like s fun visit!!

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## Braeden P (Oct 29, 2021)

Got some more paint stripper so I am cleaning the electrical box and the gear box.


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## Braeden P (Oct 30, 2021)

The whole light is solid brass!


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## Braeden P (Oct 30, 2021)

I was cleaning it off with degreaser with the main chemical of potassium hydroxide and it reacted with the lead paint and was creating hydrogen bubbles like crazy and it messes up the brass


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## Braeden P (Oct 30, 2021)

Here’s a pic


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## Braeden P (Oct 30, 2021)

Here are some more pics


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## Braeden P (Nov 30, 2021)

Might have a major problem

cleaned around the oilers and got rid of all of the dust, spayed with windex and wiped down. Removed the rear oiler and it is not good. If the oil goes straight to the bearings the whole lathe could be ruined in a few years, if there is wicks it would not be a problem.


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## Weldingrod1 (Nov 30, 2021)

Maybe fresh felts?

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## matthewsx (Nov 30, 2021)

Braeden P said:


> Here is their website https://www.aagearinc.com/about
> when we were there they were making timing sprockets for Toyota racing, nylon idler gears for a doughnut filling machine, and were getting ready to make gears for a Boeing 767.


One of them gear drive aero planes?


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## Braeden P (Dec 16, 2021)

Got the gear back along with the new plastic test piece! This one doesn’t have a key way since it will weaken the gear by a lot so we will find another way. There was 1/8 of an inch from the sides of the key way to the root of the gear! Along with porosity it was not going to last long.


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## TorontoBuilder (Oct 22, 2022)

any updates on this?

I'm considering the same lathe


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## Braeden P (Oct 25, 2022)

bondo, lots of sanding but if you dont want it to look perfect they are great, I can hit 0.0001' tolorances easily and the tailstock can drill a 3'' deep hole which is way better than a southbend but cant thread, good for small to medium parts with good tolorances, kinda heavy at 1,500 lbs (680 kg) but very rigid and I would take it over a southbend for the parts that I make.


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## tq60 (Oct 26, 2022)

Optios on the Key.

One is cut a smaller key in the gear, example, if origami was 1/8 wide and tall, make it only 1/16 tall.

Take your standard key stock and mill it shorter or thinner.

Second option is using the lathe as a shaper/slotter, place gear in chuck and make a cutter that will cut the keyway and place in in your tool post aligned like a drill would be in the tail stock.

Now position it to where it will cut the keyway if the carriage is moved towards the chuck, like a shaper would.

Fix it so adjustment of cross slide effects the depth so you move carriage I and out of the gear then move 0.001 and repeat.

You add a carriage stop so you only cut where the gear is not.

You could do both, with broach cut keyway but only do first cut so it is shallow.

Then if you want more key in part of the gear make the part away from the gear full depth.

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## Braeden P (Oct 26, 2022)

tq60 said:


> Optios on the Key.
> 
> One is cut a smaller key in the gear, example, if origami was 1/8 wide and tall, make it only 1/16 tall.
> 
> ...


wrong thread


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## Braeden P (Dec 5, 2022)

I am working on filing the tailstock smooth and bondo on the front and side of the lathe is done, 15% still needs bondo and 10% needs to be sanded


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## pontiac428 (Dec 5, 2022)

It looks like I tuned in late, but I wanted to comment on your asbestos lining in the electric panel, etc.

High quality asbestos gaskets are usually brown amosite.  That is double nasty stuff compared to the already very nasty chrysotile thermal system insulation/surfacing material in the electric panel.

Before disturbing asbestos, wet it thoroughly with water and a little dish soap.  The soap is important to amend water's ability to permeate asbestos material.  I would have just dunked the cover in a tub with soapy water, and scraped all the insulation away.  Then run the water through a coffee filter, disposed of the water, and bagged the remains for the trash can (don't tell anyone) or drop it at a special landfill (not on your salary).

You did good on the lead paint, chemical strippers are the safest way to deal with that.  Just wash up real good when you are done.


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## Braeden P (Dec 6, 2022)

The old filler is pitch black and I have no idea whats in it but the only way to remove it is with a chisel and the a wire brush otherwise the bondo wont stick no matter how clean it is. I cover it in soapy degreaser and chisel it off then spay it on when wire brushing it off, I would leave it but it clogs sandpaper really quick and new filler wont stick to it. Im all done with removing that stuff so now its only sanding bondo and removing rust.


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## Braeden P (Dec 6, 2022)

Forgot to mention it but I have an old solid brass lamp from the 1920s on it that I polished up and put on it and made a tool rack. I could sell the lamp and buy a cheaper one and get tooling for it. ( they run about $250 on fleabay)


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## Braeden P (Dec 6, 2022)

Here are some pic


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