# What rotary table to get



## schor (Feb 19, 2014)

I've got a benchtop mill and would like to get a rotary table for it. The milling table is 5.125x19.5.

I can get a 3", 4" and 6" rotary table for a reasonable price, what should I go for? Will a 6" be too big?


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## Ray C (Feb 19, 2014)

schor said:


> I've got a benchtop mill and would like to get a rotary table for it. The milling table is 5.125x19.5.
> 
> I can get a 3", 4" and 6" rotary table for a reasonable price, what should I go for? Will a 6" be too big?



Depends...  For the sake of convenience, it's nice to have a unit where the bolt holes line-up with the slots in the table.  If you can get that information, it's worth taking into consideration.


Ray


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## Senna (Feb 19, 2014)

I wouldn't even consider an RT under 6".

It's been said before by many people but it bears repeating.

You can do small work on a big tool but you can't do big work on a small tool.


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## LEEQ (Feb 19, 2014)

Grizzly has a 6" with dividing plates and a tailstock for a very reasonable price. You can easily spend the same money on a Chinese 6" without these goodies. I think the fit and finish are pretty nice for Chinese too.


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## Bill Gruby (Feb 19, 2014)

IMHO -- This is as good as it gets for the money. This is the one I own.

 Grizzly -- H7527 -- 6" Rotary Table W/Dividing Plates and Tail Stock.

 "Billy G"

 I can blow holes in the theory that you can't do big work on a small machine 24/7.  I have disproved the theory many times over.


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## schor (Feb 19, 2014)

So that Grizzley looks much the same as this from busybee here in Canada.

http://www.busybeetools.com/products/ROTARY-TABLE-6IN.-C{47}W-TAIL-STOCK{47}INDEXING.html

Hopefully it won't be too big for my machine.


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## Bill Gruby (Feb 19, 2014)

Yup, same thing. Price id close to.

 "Billy G"


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## toag (Feb 19, 2014)

I have a small 4" i used with my first mill (LMS bench mill).  It worked fine, the knob could hit the scales, so had to be careful.  I have a 12" h/v for the mill, that is too heavy to either put onto the table... or take off, so it gets little use.   I think a 6" would be great even for a knee mill.


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## Senna (Feb 19, 2014)

toag said:


> I have a small 4" i used with my first mill (LMS bench mill).  It worked fine, the knob could hit the scales, so had to be careful.  I have a 12" h/v for the mill, that is too heavy to either put onto the table... or take off, so it gets little use.   I think a 6" would be great even for a knee mill.



Dang, I just got a 200+ pound cross slide RT and I plan to transfer it between my two Gorton mills as required.
Thankfully I can still handle moving 200 pounds.
I like heavy, both in my machine tools and in my accessories.


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## Smudgemo (Feb 19, 2014)

Maybe this helps?  It's the bottom of my 6" PhaseII.  The mounting hole at the top of the photo is behind the vertical rule and the other end is held with a clamp, so no real worry about lining them up on your table, but it looks like there would be some overhang on your machine.  





-Ryan


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## toag (Feb 19, 2014)

12" weighs 200 lbs even and i do workout so i can lift it, it's just that i rarely want to.  when i was looking for a table i was at PM, and most said 10-12" or nothing.  i think its a load of bull, rarely do i make big pieces, and though you can make small stuff on it, _if_ it's on the table :rofl:

i like things in that 50-100 range, much easier to grab and move around.


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## Senna (Feb 19, 2014)

toag said:


> 12" weighs 200 lbs even and i do workout so i can lift it, it's just that i rarely want to.  when i was looking for a table i was at PM, and most said 10-12" or nothing.  i think its a load of bull, rarely do i make big pieces, and though you can make small stuff on it, _if_ it's on the table :rofl:
> 
> i like things in that 50-100 range, much easier to grab and move around.



Well, that's why they make all different sizes I suppose.
For a full sized mill I agree with those on PM. Full sized table.
But the OP has a smaller mill so in his case a 6" table may be about perfect.

BTW, that 200# 12" must be a monster since my 200+# table is a 12" Troyke with a 9"x9" X-Y cross slide on top. And Troyke makes a pretty stout table.


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## toag (Feb 19, 2014)

just like this one, only mine is that odd green-gold color...
http://www.travers.com/342852-65-221-312

bought it on ebay, cleaned it up and its been a nice addition, but egad... not something you want to catch a finger under.


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## Bill Gruby (Feb 19, 2014)

schor said:


> So that Grizzley looks much the same as this from busybee here in Canada.
> 
> http://www.busybeetools.com/products/ROTARY-TABLE-6IN.-C{47}W-TAIL-STOCK{47}INDEXING.html
> 
> Hopefully it won't be too big for my machine.



 As long as your table is at least 6 inches wide it will fit. My table is 6X24 and it fits perfect.

 "Billy G"


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## schor (Feb 19, 2014)

Bill Gruby said:


> As long as your table is at least 6 inches wide it will fit. My table is 6X24 and it fits perfect.
> 
> "Billy G"



My table is 5-1/4" x 19-1/2"

I'd like the 6" if it fits, I think it will, but will hang over a bit.


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## Bill Gruby (Feb 19, 2014)

The square end will hang over 3/8 inches both ways. The base is exactly 6 inches wide at the square end. You should have no problem living with that.

 "Billy G.


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## schor (Feb 19, 2014)

Thanks for the help everyone. I am going to get the 6" with the dividing plates and tailstock. Not sure if I'll wait to get to the States and pick up the Grizzley or if I'll get the busybee one sooner.


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## metalmole (Feb 19, 2014)

I hate to tell it, but I bought a Phase 2 12" like this one with the dividing plates and tail stock for $100, and it was all new in the factory wood boxes....Please don't hate I gave the guy what he was asking.... 






toag said:


> just like this one, only mine is that odd green-gold color...
> http://www.travers.com/342852-65-221-312
> 
> bought it on ebay, cleaned it up and its been a nice addition, but egad... not something you want to catch a finger under.


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## Great white hunter (Feb 20, 2014)

I use a 10" phase II rotary table. Its the perfect size for all kinds of work and it only costs around $450.00 That's cheap compared to some of the other ones out there. I don't see how people buy these 4" or other small tables. They are useless unless your making watch parts.


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## schor (Feb 20, 2014)

Great white hunter said:


> I use a 10" phase II rotary table. Its the perfect size for all kinds of work and it only costs around $450.00 That's cheap compared to some of the other ones out there. I don't see how people buy these 4" or other small tables. They are useless unless your making watch parts.



Some people are just hobbyists and have small mills that can only accept small tables. Even putting out $350 on the 6" is still questionable for me at this point as I have no project to use it for but I'd like to get one to play with so I know what I can do with it.


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## toag (Feb 20, 2014)

Metalmolde,
Hope you went to confession after stealint that rot table! or at least had some guilt.
Thats an amazing deal, congrats!


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## Walltoddj (Feb 20, 2014)

I have a 15" Troyke Horizontal it's great for flywheels but I'm looking to get an 8" dual horizontal an vertical. I've also got a Cincinnati #10 dividing head with is a little large to be moving around.

Todd


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## Ray C (Feb 20, 2014)

FWIW....  I have this one and it meets all my needs and then some:  http://www.wttool.com/index/page/pr...+Table+Set+(WT)&update_continue_shopping=true

In all sincerity, I don't use it that much; sometimes going most of the year w/o using it and then all the sudden, a job comes along and it's the most important tool in the shop...



Ray


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## Bill Gruby (Feb 20, 2014)

Ray C said:


> FWIW....  I have this one and it meets all my needs and then some:  http://www.wttool.com/index/page/pr...+Table+Set+(WT)&update_continue_shopping=true
> 
> In all sincerity, I don't use it that much; sometimes going most of the year w/o using it and then all the sudden, a job comes along and it's the most important tool in the shop...
> 
> ...



 That is the exact same table we are discussing Ray. Wish I had seen it at that price.

 "Billy G"


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## Ray C (Feb 20, 2014)

Bill Gruby said:


> That is the exact same table we are discussing Ray. Wish I had seen it at that price.
> 
> "Billy G"



It's been "out of stock" for a long time -well over 6 months.  These kinds of delays are very typical for items manufactured in China.  It is a good price and a pretty decent table.  "wttools.com" is an under-rated supplier.  They don't do on-site quality inspections but, I happen to know they purchase many of their industrial items from the higher tier factories in China.  The are big enough to deal direct with the factories and they don't go through distributors.  -Same is true of Shars.com...



Ray


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## metalmole (Feb 20, 2014)

toag said:


> Metalmolde,
> Hope you went to confession after stealint that rot table! or at least had some guilt.
> Thats an amazing deal, congrats!



Yea just a little guilt, but I look at it this way...it now has a new home where it will be taken care of and used.....

I had a 8" RT before I got the 12" and I have found some uses for the 12" that could not be done on the 8", I like knowing I have the tooling to do stuff, we all will never be finished adding to our inventory of tooling, its an addiction ...


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## Pmedic828 (Feb 20, 2014)

I also have a small mill - I purchased a Phase II  6 inch rotary table and it would overhang a bit.  I made a plate to mount it on with holes that would line up with my slots and it works great - I purchased it thru ENCO when they had 20% off and free shipping.  The rotary table seems to work great, but I'm not a pattern maker machinist!


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## Great white hunter (Feb 21, 2014)

schor said:


> Thanks for the help everyone. I am going to get the 6" with the dividing plates and tailstock. Not sure if I'll wait to get to the States and pick up the Grizzley or if I'll get the busybee one sooner.



If I were you I would get a verticle/horizontal rotary table. That way you wont have to buy a dividing head next and you can do many more things with it.


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## metalmole (Feb 21, 2014)

Great white hunter said:


> If I were you I would get a verticle/horizontal rotary table. That way you wont have to buy a dividing head next and you can do many more things with it.



Good advise


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## schor (Feb 21, 2014)

Great white hunter said:


> If I were you I would get a verticle/horizontal rotary table. That way you wont have to buy a dividing head next and you can do many more things with it.



That is exactly what I am going to get.


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## george wilson (Feb 21, 2014)

Do not expect a vertical/horizontal table to sit upright PERFECTLY square. I haven't seen one yet that is machined square. They are always a little off if you check them with a high grade precision square. You can put some pieces of shim stock under them to make them more square. Aluminum foil is usually .002" thick,but check yours to be sure.

you need your own little "Bureau of Standards" in your shop: A high quality square that has been verified square; a truly straight edge; a good granite space plate; if possible,a camel back type straight edge about 1 1/2" wide; and a precision level,at least as good as a Starrett "mechanic's" level(the tubular ones with cast iron base.) With these things,you can verify the setups you have,and level your machines.


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## Bill Gruby (Feb 21, 2014)

Great white hunter said:


> If I were you I would get a verticle/horizontal rotary table. That way you wont have to buy a dividing head next and you can do many more things with it.



 The RT he is looking into is all three. Vertical, Horizontal RT and Dividing head with Tailstock.

 "Billy G"


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## LEEQ (Feb 21, 2014)

Ray C said:


> It's been "out of stock" for a long time -well over 6 months.  These kinds of delays are very typical for items manufactured in China.  It is a good price and a pretty decent table.  "wttools.com" is an under-rated supplier.  They don't do on-site quality inspections but, I happen to know they purchase many of their industrial items from the higher tier factories in China.  The are big enough to deal direct with the factories and they don't go through distributors.  -Same is true of Shars.com...
> 
> 
> 
> Ray



I looked at this when they were in stock, but they told me it would cost big to ship as it required truck freight. It wound up being cheaper to go grizzly and when I did it came on the ups truck. If you get free shipping to a nearby busybee even better. They all appear to be the same exact set and are the best bargain I have seen in a whole set up. Don't get me wrong, you can find some 4 & 5"ers Cheap! But now outfit them with the goodies, Ouch!! Happy machining whatever brand you buy.

- - - Updated - - -

I forgot to add that the Grizzly Bill and I have comes with a very nice book that has all the charts and walks you through set up and dividing. The good manuals are typical from Grizzly in my experience. I hear they are very good in customer service where others are not, also. I have yet to get junk that needed returning though.


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## Uglydog (Feb 22, 2014)

george wilson said:


> Do not expect a vertical/horizontal table to sit upright PERFECTLY square. I haven't seen one yet that is machined square. They are always a little off if you check them with a high grade precision square. You can put some pieces of shim stock under them to make them more square. Aluminum foil is usually .002" thick,but check yours to be sure.
> 
> you need your own little "Bureau of Standards" in your shop: A high quality square that has been verified square; a truly straight edge; a good granite space plate; if possible,a camel back type straight edge about 1 1/2" wide; and a precision level,at least as good as a Starrett "mechanic's" level(the tubular ones with cast iron base.) With these things,you can verify the setups you have,and level your machines.



These are wise and appropriately cautionary words. What's missing from the above list are the instructions of how best to use these inspection tools. 

Daryl
MN


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## toag (Feb 22, 2014)

shim stock is nice to have.  I don't often square my table, and i should, though i don't know if i should trust my table to be flat or level :whistle:


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## Bill Gruby (Feb 22, 2014)

Mine is square. It came from the factory this way. That square just came back from calibration yesterday. I still need to shim it .001 when vertical.

 "Billy G"


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## george wilson (Feb 23, 2014)

Bill,If your rotary table is truly square,hang on to it!! I just have not seen one yet that isn't a little bit out when checked with my vintage Starrett or Brown and Sharpe squares(I don't use new B&S. There's no telling where they were made.) Actually,I don't have new Starrett squares either. No one seems to make them like they used to. The trick is to find old ones that haven't been dropped or messed with.

I have granite master squares to check them against. They look like heavy duty book ends with steps in them. One is just a granite right triangle. At work,I ordered a granite square from Shars. It was surprisingly accurate when checked against my old USA made granite squares. But,when ordering anything Chinese,it is STRICTLY pot luck. Bear that in mind.

Bill,what do you need to shim .001" when vertical? The rotary table or the square? The term "When it is vertical" seems to imply the table.


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## Bill Gruby (Feb 23, 2014)

george wilson said:


> Bill,If your rotary table is truly square,hang on to it!! I just have not seen one yet that isn't a little bit out when checked with my vintage Starrett or Brown and Sharpe squares(I don't use new B&S. There's no telling where they were made.) Actually,I don't have new Starrett squares either. No one seems to make them like they used to. The trick is to find old ones that haven't been dropped or messed with.
> 
> I have granite master squares to check them against. They look like heavy duty book ends with steps in them. One is just a granite right triangle. At work,I ordered a granite square from Shars. It was surprisingly accurate when checked against my old USA made granite squares. But,when ordering anything Chinese,it is STRICTLY pot luck. Bear that in mind.
> 
> Bill,what do you need to shim .001" when vertical? The rotary table or the square? The term "When it is vertical" seems to imply the table.




 There is a small indent where I usually use the RT vertically. I fill that void with a piece of .001 brass to head off problems. It's really only needed when cutting gears. It's just a precaution.

 "Billy G"


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## LEEQ (Feb 23, 2014)

Bill Gruby said:


> There is a small indent where I usually use the RT vertically. I fill that void with a piece of .001 brass to head off problems. It's really only needed when cutting gears. It's just a precaution.
> 
> "Billy G"



Do you single point spur gears? I'm getting geared up to do so and am very keen on seeing how others set up to do so. I was thinking abt making a stub to mount a little 3 jaw to my table to hold a mandrel to hold a gear. That's a lot of holding.) I was also considering putting the mandrel on centers and dogging it to the rotary table. I think it would be within the scope of this thread to show your table in action if you had any pic's. If not I would be glad to start a thread on cutting spur gears. Thanks, Lee.


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## Bill Gruby (Feb 23, 2014)

Go to this link and scroll to post #552 and you will see how I do gears.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/19384-Home-Grown-Cutter-Grinder

 "Billy G"


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## LEEQ (Feb 23, 2014)

Well thank you. I like that dog! I need to cut gears that slide onto a shaft, so I won't have an integral mandrel. They take a bushing later and have no keyway. Any suggestions as to how to prevent rotation on the mandrel? I have a couple ideas, but ideas from a seasoned vet are always welcome. I thought maybe punch a keyway for use in this operation. I don't have broaches though. That leads me to perhaps drilling a hole in the gear for use in some kind of dog set up. Might hand file a hole into a keyway, but I hate for that to show after I bush the gear later. To me it would look like a screw up. Thank you for your help, and forgive me for threadjacking.


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## schor (Mar 8, 2014)

Thanks everyone for their replies to my questions. I did not get the 6" rotary table with indexing plates and tailstock, YET.

But I did come across a somewhat larger rotary table and picked it up this morning. It's nice low and it will fit my mill with some overhang. :rofl:

Here it is in the kijiji add.


It operates really well so I brought it home with me.



As I said it's a little large, but I can fit it on my benchtop mill.


I spent about 45 minutes cleaning it up a bit. I might go for more cleaning, maybe not.



I thought $50 + about $15 for gas to pick it up was a good price.

The guy also has a small ajax knee mill he wants $1000 for that I am considering. It only stands about 5' tall, I would have to mount it on something to get it up higher.


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## schor (Mar 8, 2014)

Here it is mounted on my benchtop mill, uses up the whole table and a slight bit of overhang but I don't see that as a problem.


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## angelfj1 (Mar 24, 2014)

Bill Gruby said:


> IMHO -- This is as good as it gets for the money. This is the one I own.
> 
> Grizzly -- H7527 -- 6" Rotary Table W/Dividing Plates and Tail Stock.
> 
> ...





Billy:  I am looking at this H7527 table for use with my G0704 mill.  I understand that the center hole (sleeve) is a #2 Morse taper.  Would this be intended for collets?  What about a 3-jaw or 4-jaw chuck - how would that be attached?

Thanks,

Frank
)


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## Uglydog (Mar 24, 2014)

schor said:


> Here it is mounted on my benchtop mill, uses up the whole table and a slight bit of overhang but I don't see that as a problem.



Nice RT!
I've got a 6inch Grizzly with tailstock and plates I used with my bench mill. 
I sold the mill/drill (just to small for what I was doing). 
Now that I've got a large Cincy I've been looking for a larger RT and a 5c index. 
Send my a PM should you decide you want to trade. 
Depending on where in Ontario we might be able to work out out delivery this summer during a "camping" trip.


Daryl
MN


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## dan12 (Mar 24, 2014)

LEEQ said:


> Grizzly has a 6" with dividing plates and a tailstock for a very reasonable price. You can easily spend the same money on a Chinese 6" without these goodies. I think the fit and finish are pretty nice for Chinese too.



$331.95
found it,looking up how a tailstock is used.
saw 1 video on youtube
now need to see what the dividing plates are for
never heard on them,guessing t's for spacing hole/cuts?


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## dave2176 (Mar 24, 2014)

dan12 said:


> $331.95
> found it,looking up how a tailstock is used.
> saw 1 video on youtube
> now need to see what the dividing plates are for
> never heard on them,guessing t's for spacing hole/cuts?



The plates are used for precise rotation/spacing. You'll want them.
Dave

- - - Updated - - -



angelfj1 said:


> Billy:  I am looking at this H7527 table for use with my G0704 mill.  I understand that the center hole (sleeve) is a #2 Morse taper.  Would this be intended for collets?  What about a 3-jaw or 4-jaw chuck - how would that be attached?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> ...



The taper is a bushing that is about 1" long is all. I think a collet would work fair with a creative drawbar. Mount a chuck to a back plate that is larger diameter. Cut 4 slots for mounting with T nuts.
Dave


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