# New [to me] 13" x 5" south bend



## Ski

I started this in another post but thought I'd start it again. The lathe is a 13 inch,5 foot bed model CL145B. SN# 15840T. Approximate build date is middle 78. It is replacing a 3 1/2 foot bed 1965 10L which I have sold. This lathe doesn't have the threaded spindle but not sure what the proper name of it is,someone? D1-3 I think. I will have to locate a collet chuck.  It came with 2 chucks,A 3 jaw cuchman and a 4 jaw Rohm. lathe came out of a high school originally 10 years ago and into the shed where I found it. It is a hard bed with 0 noticable wear on the ways.The original scraping marks can be seen on the saddle and compound/ crosslide but faintly.It has kissed the jaws of a chuck a few times as well. I have most of that filed/ stoned off already to a useable condition. Not perfect but dang close. I ran it while checking it out and it seemed pretty tight.Everything worked.It is wired for 220 single phase with a new motor and I also was given the 3 phase motor(original) which is in like new shape. It is missing a reverse switch though.  I am going to refelt [kit coming] it after disassemble and cleaning and some repainting. It was oiled and greased but not with the right oil. The 80 tooth gear is missing parts of a couple teeth but I think it is due to the gear set with hardly any engagement except at the ends. So looking for a gear and switch and maybe a compound if anyone has some spare parts around. The owner I picked it up from said he used it barely once a year for 10 years and never used the lead screw feeds. He said he used it manually only.  Gear box was out of gear, as was all the apron levers and the banjo. I just couldn't pass it up. I tried real hard too. Offered a lower price but he took it. Dang it. Ski


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## LEEQ

I feel bad for you. I'm still waiting for the deal I can't get away from. In the mean time, a mini lathe serves most of my turning needs. Nice find!


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## core-oil

Ski ,

  Looks a nice machine, Good score, But has it got its tailstock?


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## brasssmanget

Good to see someone from my area get a nice deal on a nice lathe. I'm doing OK with a 10L, but the 13" has my interest - maybe in the future.....

Congrats!


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## ScrapMetal

PM sent.

-Ron


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## Ski

Yes,It came with tailstock.I stripped as much as I could to lighten up the top end.Then bolted it to the trailer and strapped down at 4 corners.Picked up in Cedarburg,Wi.


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## woodtickgreg

Nice find, only way I would ever sell my 10L is if I found a nice 13 like that one to restore as an upgrade. What was the selling price?


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## Ski

Here are a couple more pics. He was asking 1850.00. I offered 17 upon inspection. That maybe more than some would pay but I thought it was worth it. I am sure I could have done worse. Teardown is going ok. Saddle screws are TIGHT. I got one loose and 3 soaking. I finished cleaning up the compound and cross with those ready to paint. It looks like the compound base suffered the most damage when it got a little close to the chuck. Maybe someone has one laying around that was spared damage ?Ski


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## old_dave

The proper name for your spindle nose is "4 inch Type D1" per USA Standard Publication B5.9-1967 "Spindle Noses for Tool Room Lathes, Engine Lathes, Turret Lathes, and Automatic Lathes". Usually though it's referred to as a D1-4 or D1-4" or something like that. There is a D1-3", which is, well, smaller. And a D1-2" is described in this publication. And there are several larger sizes. The D1-4" became standard on the South Bend Heavy 10, the 13 and the 16 inch lathes in the second half of the 1970's. Threaded spindle noses then were available as an option. 
David


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## Ski

I finally got the saddle screws loose today. I cleaned up the saddle and it all looks ok to go. Stoned/flat filed a few dings off. Ways have a few work dings. Hopefully a stone will work on them. I have done some cleaning done on the ways and took a couple pics. I made a makeshift support for the lead screw in case you are wondering. Thought it best to support it while I turn/run the apron off the end. Lots of cleaning and paint removal to do. Felt kit should be here tomorrow. It will probably be awhile before I post any more pics unless I run into a needed repair but will post the painted components as I get them done. Thanks for the info and help. Ski


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## wlane

I have. Similar 13" with D1-4. You don't need a collet chuck. There is an 5C adapter just like your 10L that fits in the spindle. It is smaller in Outside dia than the one for threaded spindle. It is smaller to fit inside the d1-4 spindle nose protecter (doughnut). The adapter for the threaded spindle will work just fine but will not allow the spindle nose protector to be used


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## Kroll

Nice score,a person can spend a life time waiting for a deal then life will pass him by still waiting.Money well spent and when your done with it you will make a profit when you sell it,that lathe I think is probably the most popular lathe there is.Well on my list it is---kroll


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## Ski

Something I noticed on the spindle pulley is the bushing closest to the bull gear was in the poorest shape. Looking at this it appears as though that bushing would get a lot less grease compared to the other 2.For those unfamiliar with the 13" , the pulley has 3 bushings with 2 next to each other at the chuck end of the spindle. These bushings are thin so not sure a small groove should/could be added to help grease get to the end bushing. Anyone else address this previously? I think the bushing is completly useable with no noticable play but a tad ugly. Ski


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## Old Iron

Answered your pm but just in case go to vbelt supply and look for a 655K10 K Series Poly V Belt that's the one you need over lap it about 4". just click on the belt in this post, There on sale fot 17 and some change.

Paul


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## Old Iron

I cleaned shop a few months ago and I put 2 switch's on ebay, I was surprised at how much they sold for. So I can't help you there.

Paul


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## Ski

*Re: New [to me] 13&quot; x 5&quot; south bend*



wlane said:


> I have. Similar 13" with D1-4. You don't need a collet chuck. There is an 5C adapter just like your 10L that fits in the spindle. It is smaller in Outside dia than the one for threaded spindle. It is smaller to fit inside the d1-4 spindle nose protecter (doughnut). The adapter for the threaded spindle will work just fine but will not allow the spindle nose protector to be used



Can you post a picture? Thanks for the info though.

- - - Updated - - -



Old Iron said:


> I cleaned shop a few months ago and I put 2 switch's on ebay, I was surprised at how much they sold for. So I can't help you there.
> 
> Paul



I noticed the high prices! I will keep looking. It has a single phase 1 1/2 hp marathon motor on it [220]. I also have the 3 phase motor. Before I pitch high dollars for a drum switch I'll consider a VFD. If anyone has a drum switch they no longer need, let me know. I have a good gear to replace the damaged one plus have all parts needed except for some gits cups. 
Working on paint prep.


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## Ski

I have quite a lot of the lathe tore down and ready for paint.Since my cousin started a powder coat biz I have taken all covers,panels,chip tray right side leg/leveling assembly,base door assembly.Items that are not being done are any with a way surface or babbit material,cross,compound headstock ect... The bed and motor cabinet will be sanded and rolled/ brushed. Color is Sherwin Williams machine tower gray which is matched to their powder. I am sure it wont be perfect match but it will look good and will be tough and last.Not going crazy for a show car finish either so some pits will be filled and "texture" left to enjoy! I welded up and ground the extra holes in the chip pan from the switch box. Moving it since I have a Grandson with curious fingers.About 2. weeks until powder coat is done so going to get the bed,headstock and base done and I am half way there now. Still have to find a single phase drum switch. I'd do a VFD since I have the 2hp 3 phase motor but no extra mula now. All other bad or missing parts accounted for.Wife announced today she wants a new kitchen floor and counter tops. Those women and their toys! Ski


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## Kroll

Sounds like your making some good progress,love to see pics of your lathe when you get it back from your brother.


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## Ski

Just a quick update. I am still cleaning and scrubbing but hope to be sanding by next weekend. Paint is matched. I used a Standard RAL color powder coat called mouse gray. Reason is it is easy to match at Sherwin Williams. I left them a panel so they can fine tune the paint match. I have posted a couple pics of my progress to include one panel that is powder coated. everything is getting powder coated except base, bed, gear box, apron, headstock, left side gear cover. I am considering doing the gear box and apron though. Powder coat process brings part slowly to 350 in oven to help get any soaked in crap out then cooled naturally then powder is applied and reheated to 350 for 20 or 30 minutes and cooled again. Has anyone had a gearbox or apron powder coated? Not sure if there is any risk in something twisting out of shape. Unless someone has done this with no problems, I will not risk it. Ski


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## Ski

*Updated: New [to me] 13" x 5" south bend*

Hello everyone, I have gotten a few things done on the lathe as far as painting goes. All the non machined parts are powder coated. I hope to have the bed and base back together and fully painted soon unless grandkids invade [hopefully!]. Here are a few pics of the progress including one of the powder coated leg and chip pan. Note that the paint match is not "perfect" but is only a slight difference. I can see it so I'm sure others will too. I chose not to spray paint and instead roll and brush the machines although I add a little additive [penetrol] to lessen brush/roll marks. Ski


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## Ski

Here are a couple more updated pics. Note the powder coated door, chip pan and legs and painted bed, base ,headstock and saddle. Not a perfect match but darn close. I'll be doing the headstock, gear box, reverse lever and apron rebuilds next. Note also the spindle bearing caps are not painted. They were on loan so shim packs could be made. I got an extra set in trade for the loan of the caps to cover my shipping and insurance on them. If someone needs a nicely made shim pack set for a 13", PM me. Hopefully it is ok to mention that?  Ski


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## Vladymere

Ski,

Your work all looks very good.  I don't think I have read of anybody using powder coating on a South Bend before.  It looks good and, I think, is a good idea.

Vlad


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## Carlos Iglesias

Looks simply awesome!  Best of all, you're providing some much need motivation for me to press-on with my CL-148B rehab.  I'm even doing a similar color though, though as a Naval Aviator I couldn't resist doing my '67 beauty in Rustoleum Industrial 7400 Navy Gray... it's "haze gray and underway" even in the garage! 

I'm spray painting the entire lathe, but will price ceramic coating the chip pan to try and address the chemical/ abrasion assault.  Just hope my "beer budget" will afford the coating "champagne taste."  Anyways, very much looking forward to your continued progress, thanks sharing it.


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## woodtickgreg

Ski, she's looking real nice, keep the pics coming as We really enjoy watching someones project come together.


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## Thoro

As others have said, it is looking great. It looks like a very similar color to the one I used on my 1941 heavy 10. Sherwin Williams gauntlet Grey. 
 Subscribed


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## Brain Coral

Hello Ski,

Your lathe is looking real nice...   I had a 13" Southbend a couple of years ago, but the ways were worn quite badly so I sold it. I do miss it as it was so quiet to run compared the the Colchester I have now.

I think that the price was just about right with the ways in such good shape on yours.

Keep up the good work... 

Brian


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## Ski

Thank you everyone for the nice comments. I'd have to agree that seeing someone else's project from start to finish is interesting. I think I looked at every single one on several machining groups. I hope to see others as well. Going to be a busy summer so I will be on this off and on. My Heavy 10L buyer just backed out so I may finish that repaint after this although the machine itself needs no work. I did not repaint the cabinet or bed on that one. Ski


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## Ski

*Update: New [to me] 13" x 5' south bend*

Hello Everyone, Just wanted to update the progress. I have been sidetracked with some home remodeling so progress is at a simmer pace. I have reassembled the saddle and cross slide, compound after paint. I have also made the spinner handle for the tailstock hand wheel from original drawings from latheman2. I have cleaned up the Rohm 4 jaw independent chuck which is like new and have the keys almost done. I will get a jump on this soon. I have a bunch of stuff ready to reassemble as soon as this Kitchen is done. Ski


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## rw1

Beautiful work Ski!

Paint looks great.  I sand blasted / powder coated the base of my 10L and couldn't be happier with it.  A  bargain based on the time and effort it would have taken  (lathe is enough work in itself :lmao.  

Love the SB 13 and keep it going!


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## comstock-friend

Sure looks like my Model CLC145B, a June 25, 1958, shipped 13" x 5 foot. I'm thinking a good cleaning is all mine needs. I sure enjoy looking at yours apart.)




John


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## Ski

comstock-friend said:


> Sure looks like my Model CLC145B, a June 25, 1958, shipped 13" x 5 foot. I'm thinking a good cleaning is all mine needs. I sure enjoy looking at yours apart.)
> 
> View attachment 82274
> 
> 
> John


Yours has the taper attachment which mine does not. I would like to find one some day to add on. Your machine looks good. Going thru one is not that tough but the rebuild book helps. Good luck.Ski


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## comstock-friend

Ski said:


> Yours has the taper attachment which mine does not. I would like to find one some day to add on. Your machine looks good. Going thru one is not that tough but the rebuild book helps. Good luck.Ski



Never used a taper attachment, guess I'll get to practice! Got the book and the new felts. Probably work on it as a "needs to" basis.

John


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## Ski

Another short update. I finished the tailstock. Spinner knob looks and works good. I also finished the reverse gear assembly and made the 4 jaw chuck keys. I Made 2 as I think it may be easier to adjust some things with 2 working one in and one out. Gear box is up next. Ski


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## comstock-friend

Love the tail stock wrench. Haven't seen one like that before.

John


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## tonlin

Hey Chris,

Love the way the tail stock turned out, and the handle sure looks great! :winner:

TJ


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## zmotorsports

Fantastic job Ski.  Thanks for sharing the pics with us.

Mike.


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## Ski

*Re: New [to me] 13&quot; x 5&quot; south bend*



comstock-friend said:


> Love the tail stock wrench. Haven't seen one like that before.
> 
> John


 Kind of run what ya brung with that jewel. It came with the lathe. Leblond brand. It was painted yellow and It grew on me though so unless I get a real SB wrench given to me ,I am going to run it 

- - - Updated - - -



tonlin said:


> Hey Chris,
> 
> Love the way the tail stock turned out, and the handle sure looks great! :winner:
> 
> TJ


It came out so good I did the 10" apron knob too. I posted that in the projects of the day. Thank you !


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## Ski

I tore down the gear box and while cleaning all the oil passages out I found one bushing that was not properly drilled. I checked and double checked it using a small wire and fashlight. Either that or it shifted. I luckily had a drill bit long enough to reach the bushing and redrilled. I took the best picture I could to show it. Might be a fluke but suggest they get checked close. I found my 10L was a little bit off to one side when I did that one too. The bushing and shaft are still useable though and I do not plan on replacing them. Ski


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## Ski

Another small update.I have gotten some more work done on the 13" recently. You can see some progress. Headstock is done and adjusted, gear box is about to be reassembled. Making a new gear door thumb bolt for the next project. I am going to knurl this which I have only done a few times so it may not be the prettiest knurl job ! Also note the addition of the Footmaster casters. I purchased these from Caster depot [eBay] and went through a short but sweet process with them and Footmaster directly to very quickly solve a movement issue that was attributed to pad compression. It was not real bad but was of concern. Some may not agree with casters on a lathe but it works best for me. Please read the other post "leveling pad plans" for the nitty gritty on that. The caster pn# I finally used is a new pn# now [ GD-120S-BLK-001] and it is a modification to an existing caster that was rated at 2200 lbs each with recommended load of 4400 lbs on 4. It was originally made with a 16mm stud which was to large to fit the 13" South Bend. The modification they are doing is the same caster with a 1/2 stud. I did not want to drill out the cast iron by hand which is doable but could be a real " not fun" project. If I would have thought of it sooner, I could have flipped the base over and drilled them oversize on the drill press. I do not know how long it will take them to get them out but using my experience as an indicator I doubt it will take them long. Once on pads this is solid and rolls easy when on the wheels. It is actually more solid than my 10L heavy 10 is on oversize pads. I am getting there ! Ski


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## tonlin

Looking Good, Chris!

The pads look like they will do the job, nice work.

TJ


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## tonlin

*Re: New [to me] 13&quot; x 5&quot; south bend*



> Kind of run what ya brung with that jewel. It came with the lathe. Leblond brand. It was painted yellow and It grew on me though so unless I get a real SB wrench given to me ,I am going to run it.


 

- - - Updated - - -
Better  hide that nice LeBlond wrench or else it might end up on my 15" Regal! :whistle:

TJ


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## Ski

*Update -  New [to me] 13" x 5" south bend*

Hello Everyone , I have been way to busy but have pretty much finished the 13" South Bend. The black trim around the side panels is auto door edging and I put it there to protect the finish from gouging/ sctratching. I used a Al Bino belt this time around. The switch is set up to allow the drum switch to switch off in the center off position once you hit the magnetic switch button. Off on that switch drops the magnetic switch. Thanks to Jim and Uncle Harry for the time spent on coming up with a wiring plan as well as the on/off switch Uncle Harry donated. The onlly bad news is the 3 jaw chuck is junk. It has a crack or 2 and I chucked in a straight piece and runout is horrendous. I will post the pics of that in the appropriate forum as I have a few questions I would like to put out there. Note that the powder coat on the panels and door and a few other parts is not a 100% perfect match. Also note that the wheeled frame under it is going to turn into a 4 drawer tooling storage box. Soon I hope. I'll up date the photos when that drawer unit is done. Thanks again to those that helped with suggestions and answers when I needed them and to those that have shown interest in this project. Ski PS , The pics were right side up when I listed so not sure why. if they are not .


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## Dark Age 53

You should be very proud of the work you have put into your lathe, awesome job.


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## CoopVA

Excellent work!  That looks like a brand new machine...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Ski

I took a couple more pics of the back/switches/wiring. I am in the process of leveling it now. Just a Couple things left before cutting a test bar and getting the tailstock straight. Wisconsin is a little on the chilly side right now so I try to line up a few projects and hit it on the warmer days. I saved the drum on the drum switch from the last machine. I though it a little unusual and going to improve its look soon.


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## comstock-friend

Nice! Now what you gonna be makin' on her???!!!

John


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## Ski

comstock-friend said:


> Nice! Now what you gonna be makin' on her???!!!
> 
> John


.   I have a bevel gear box shaft (simplicity) to duplicate for starters and i picked up a new X axis screw for my mill that is to long so going to shorten to fit. Since I sold my 10L with a good amount of tooling,I have to get a few things yet but not much.


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## comstock-friend

*Re: New [to me] 13&quot; x 5&quot; south bend*

"Kind of run what ya brung with that jewel. It came with the lathe. Leblond brand. It was painted yellow and It grew on me though so unless I get a real SB wrench given to me ,I am going to run it "

Look what I found out back on the old parts LeBlond!




Not that my SB tailstock looks as nice as yours!)

John


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## illbeda

Hello,
Can you post some detailed pics of the banjo assembly?I need specifically to see the pinion slide knob and related parts.

I could really use some dimensions on the pinion knob,the tooth count on the slide pinion gear.

I have a "13" and it would help greatly if I knew what was needed to complete the Primary Drive Assembly.

I will post a pic of the Banjo and the missing Slide Gear Assembly(which bolts to the center hole)that is currently empty.

Mine was Manufactured in 1941 but I believe they share the same Headstock Assembly.

Thanks man.


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## Ski

*Re: New [to me] 13&quot; x 5&quot; south bend*



comstock-friend said:


> "Kind of run what ya brung with that jewel. It came with the lathe. Leblond brand. It was painted yellow and It grew on me though so unless I get a real SB wrench given to me ,I am going to run it "
> 
> Look what I found out back on the old parts LeBlond!
> 
> View attachment 90482
> 
> 
> Not that my SB tailstock looks as nice as yours!)
> 
> John


 I like the fit of it. The spindle looks good from the side ! Any parts from the parts lathe for sale!


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## Ski

illbeda said:


> Hello,
> Can you post some detailed pics of the banjo assembly?I need specifically to see the pinion slide knob and related parts.
> 
> I could really use some dimensions on the pinion knob,the tooth count on the slide pinion gear.
> 
> I have a "13" and it would help greatly if I knew what was needed to complete the Primary Drive Assembly.
> 
> I will post a pic of the Banjo and the missing Slide Gear Assembly(which bolts to the center hole)that is currently empty.
> 
> Mine was Manufactured in 1941 but I believe they share the same Headstock Assembly.
> 
> Thanks man.


 Ok ,I took a couple shots of the side. Let me know if there is anything else I can do for you.


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## comstock-friend

*Re: New [to me] 13&quot; x 5&quot; south bend*



Ski said:


> I like the fit of it. The spindle looks good from the side ! Any parts from the parts lathe for sale!



I have an apron, about complete except for the traverse hand wheel. Remember, it's for a Leblond. I may have other Leblond parts available if I can talk the boss to let them loose.

John


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## Ski

*Re: New [to me] 13&quot; x 5&quot; south bend*



comstock-friend said:


> I have an apron, about complete except for the traverse hand wheel. Remember, it's for a Leblond. I may have other Leblond parts available if I can talk the boss to let them loose.
> 
> John


 Good to know as I know someone fixing one. That said,I'd like to find a later year taper to fit a 13. Probly be to expensive tho.


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## razinman

Hi Ski, 

               Merry X-mas/ Happy holidays and New Year !
               I just noticed your post of your SB13, beautiful looking lathe, the restoration is coming along real nice
       I jotted down the paint u used for future reference. Did u use the Sherwin Williams powder coat to SPRAY it on
       or was it brushed. 
               What did you hoist up the bedways-Harbor Freight tools sells a cherry picker
       (engine hoist?) capable of approx 2000lbs just wondering what you used?
               Just sold my SB 9 model C looking to upgrade to a SB 10 or 11L -a little concerned about the taking it apart
      and the moving it(due to the weight) 

       Good luck with the resto !

              Razinman


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## Ski

razinman said:


> Hi Ski,
> 
> Merry X-mas/ Happy holidays and New Year !
> I just noticed your post of your SB13, beautiful looking lathe, the restoration is coming along real nice
> I jotted down the paint u used for future reference. Did u use the Sherwin Williams powder coat to SPRAY it on
> or was it brushed.
> What did you hoist up the bedways-Harbor Freight tools sells a cherry picker
> (engine hoist?) capable of approx 2000lbs just wondering what you used?
> Just sold my SB 9 model C looking to upgrade to a SB 10 or 11L -a little concerned about the taking it apart
> and the moving it(due to the weight)
> 
> Good luck with the resto !
> 
> Razinman


 Hello, The paint is a sherwin williams match to a powder coat. The powder coat color is called Mouse gray. I chose this because it has a RAL number which can be used to match it at most paint stores. The sherwin Williams paint is a oil based industrial paint. I added a leveling compound to help ease the brush/ roller marks. Powder coat is applied with specialized equipment and then baked at 350 degrees for aprox. 20 minutes. It is sort of like talcum powder until it is baked. It then melts and bonds to the metal. Any pits or casting flaws must be fill with a metal filler or powder will not bond. We filled a few but left most. I did not remove the bed from the large iron base . I simply degreased,sanded and painted it with brush and roller. I removed the leg assembly,chip tray leveling assembly and had those parts powder coated lond with most parts that are not precision ground or scrapped. You cannot powder coat anything that will not take the heat such as any parts that have the babbit metal like the left gear cover,Right side lead screw bearing,large lathe base.  Note that gear box,apron,tailstock,headstock and bed are not powder coated either. These are all precision machined and scraped parts and I did not want to risk any warping or twisting. All these are stripped,sanded,primed and painted. There is absolutly no reason you could not paint the whole machine like many others have. I chose to do some powder coat mostly because my Cousin has a powder coating business. Powder coat is tough so I think the chip tray will hold up to abuse better than paint. It is easier to touch up a painted machine but powder coat can be scuffed up and painted as well., A cherry picker could handle disassembly but work safe ! This one weighs in at 1800 give or take. I used one to pull the right side leg off and the rested the bed on 10 x 10 cribbing while powder was done. You can see some of this in the early pictures. Hope I answered your questions.  Please also note that I did not think it was better to strip off ALL the old paint as long as it was solid. No offense to those that go that route.  I simply sanded after a lot of degreasing, primed bare iron and painted. Penetrol was the leveling compound I added to the paint.  Columbia coatings is the powder coat supplier my cousin uses. Check their RAL colors. Ski


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## razinman

Hi Ski, 
                Thank you for the explanation, that's really going to help me.I just painted the steel columns in my basement with
    Gray Rustoleum with a roller/brush-it came out fine I was just curious as to what other people on this forum were doing.
    As far as lifting the bed ways I think of getting professional help if need be-I don't want any accidents.

      Thanks again for the reply, 

                         razinman


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## Ski

razinman said:


> Hi Ski,
> Thank you for the explanation, that's really going to help me.I just painted the steel columns in my basement with
> Gray Rustoleum with a roller/brush-it came out fine I was just curious as to what other people on this forum were doing.
> As far as lifting the bed ways I think of getting professional help if need be-I don't want any accidents.
> 
> Thanks again for the reply,
> 
> razinman


 Nothing wrong with being extra safe. That said,you could use a cherry picker and a buddy to take it apart. Just ask for some guidance on this group before you attack the heavier parts. I used my hoist to rebuild my Lagun mill as well. Completly disassembled that too. I made several attachments to lift each part level and safe. Good luck ! Ski


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## Ski

I am sorry these pics posted in various wrong positions. After a bunch of tries I was able to reorient the pics. The dang things are upright in my photos? I edited by rotating them 360 degrees and resaving them, exactly like they were! It then seem to work !


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## Brain Coral

Hello Ski,

What an awesome job you did on your lathe...   You should be very proud and satisfied with the work that you did ...  

I'm so glad that you were able to get the pics righted... my neck was getting sore... 

Brian


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## comstock-friend

Ski,

Do you have a spindle speed badge for your 13"??? I've seen an original one inside the cone pulley cover somewhere. On mine, the good staff at Cal Poly Pomona (my Alma Mater and one of the previous owners of the lathe) made a large plate with the speeds stamped in. These are the same speeds as listed in HTRAL.




It's right above the feed/threading chart on the gearbox.

John


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## Ski

comstock-friend said:


> Ski,
> 
> Do you have a spindle speed badge for your 13"??? I've seen an original one inside the cone pulley cover somewhere. On mine, the good staff at Cal Poly Pomona (my Alma Mater and one of the previous owners of the lathe) made a large plate with the speeds stamped in. These are the same speeds as listed in HTRAL.
> 
> View attachment 90788
> 
> 
> It's right above the feed/threading chart on the gearbox.
> 
> John


 Yes ,If you look close up a few photos,you can see one pic with the cone pulley/ belt cover open. It is on the left. It was not on the lathe originally but I got one from Latheman2 (Ted). At that time he had some for 10L's and 13's in both Alum and Brass. I like the one you have.It is nicely done !Ski


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## dlane

Ski said:


> Another small update.I have gotten some more work done on the 13" recently. You can see some progress. Headstock is done and adjusted, gear box is about to be reassembled. Making a new gear door thumb bolt for the next project. I am going to knurl this which I have only done a few times so it may not be the prettiest knurl job ! Also note the addition of the Footmaster casters. I purchased these from Caster depot [eBay] and went through a short but sweet process with them and Footmaster directly to very quickly solve a movement issue that was attributed to pad compression. It was not real bad but was of concern. Some may not agree with casters on a lathe but it works best for me. Please read the other post "leveling pad plans" for the nitty gritty on that. The caster pn# I finally used is a new pn# now [ GD-120S-BLK-001] and it is a modification to an existing caster that was rated at 2200 lbs each with recommended load of 4400 lbs on 4. It was originally made with a 16mm stud which was to large to fit the 13" South Bend. The modification they are doing is the same caster with a 1/2 stud. I did not want to drill out the cast iron by hand which is doable but could be a real " not fun" project. If I would have thought of it sooner, I could have flipped the base over and drilled them oversize on the drill press. I do not know how long it will take them to get them out but using my experience as an indicator I doubt it will take them long. Once on pads this is solid and rolls easy when on the wheels. It is actually more solid than my 10L heavy 10 is on oversize pads. I am getting there ! Ski



Are the casting holes strong enough to  hold "up" the lathe and role it around , i thought the holes were to bolt it down to the floor .   I'm needing to make my 10L mobile but was going to make a steal frame w/casters & leveling pads..


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## Ski

dlane said:


> Are the casting holes strong enough to  hold "up" the lathe and role it around , i thought the holes were to bolt it down to the floor .   I'm needing to make my 10L mobile but was going to make a steal frame w/casters & leveling pads..


 What I found is that the entire weight of the machine is supported at the holes only. The actual " pad " under the machine at the hole locations is almost exactly the diameter of the leveling caster mounting pad. The caster I ended up using has a solid Aluminum pad. The company said they were going to prodice it with a 1/2 stud so it fits the machines. Look back in my postings for a full explaination. Rolls easily on these. Levels easily using a 15/16 wrench.Sits solid with no pad bounce when the pads are adjusted down. Not recommended by some but did exactly what I wanted it to do. I also did a video on it to show company the bounce problem I had with poly pads. PM me if you want it. Ski


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## comstock-friend

Ski said:


> Yes ,If you look close up a few photos,you can see one pic with the cone pulley/ belt cover open. It is on the left. It was not on the lathe originally but I got one from Latheman2 (Ted). At that time he had some for 10L's and 13's in both Alum and Brass. I like the one you have.It is nicely done !Ski



OK, I see the speed badge in one of the shots. I have the bearing adjustment instructions but no speed chart or holes for a missing one. But the big home made one has some personality. My machine is June 1958 and evidently didn't have the "Flame Hardened" badge either.

John


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## Ski

comstock-friend said:


> OK, I see the speed badge in one of the shots. I have the bearing adjustment instructions but no speed chart or holes for a missing one. But the big home made one has some personality. My machine is June 1958 and evidently didn't have the "Flame Hardened" badge either.
> 
> John


 I know Latheman had some in Alum or brass. He had them for 10L's as well in both. I agree with you though,I like yours as is and well home made anything ! Ski


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## Ski

This is the last update I'll make to this. This ended up being a double post too. Sorry about that,ski


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## Ski

This is it for this project. I have been using the lathe and love it.  I did some welding and tractor work for a friend and he made me the tooling drawer box to my dimmensions after I welded up a wheeled frame with screw down lock pads. Just about all the tooling will fit. It is made out of old crates and wood road signs that have been replaced with metal. 
	

		
			
		

		
	





	

		
			
		

		
	
 The lathe has the spider chucked up that I am whittling out to fit the left side of the spindle. I want to thank all those that helped me off and on and also those that followed or offered support. Moderators bear with me if I did something wrong in this new format ! Ski


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## woodtickgreg

Congratulations! It came out very nice, was a lot of fun watching you work on her.


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