# Pm25mv



## StanR (Mar 17, 2016)

Has arrived intact.

   Maybe some reinforcing on the top of the crate would be good. Mine arrived slightly crushed, as if it had snapped under the band tension. Contents of the package were completely unscathed.
  Me? I am patiently cleaning and running at every 100 rpm in steps to listen to the machine. I have a few R8 collets, but I haven't located the end mills yet. I know they are in the garage. 
   Table motion is smooth in X and Y. I lifted the table at full left and right, and looked to see if there was any
disturbing of the oil at the edge of the ways.  So far, it looks good. 
   Next up will be actual tramming, it is likely very close right from Matt.
   I have complete confidence I can do what I need to do within the entire work envelope. This is a good machine, even though I want to add a "one shot" lube system to it. I don't like the ball oilers. 
   Overall, a good deal. Blast I am glad I don't need to replace the gear drive with belt drive before I start making chips!
   I look forward to adding to the conversations!

        StanR


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## tweinke (Mar 17, 2016)

I look forward to your comments on your new mill! I'm thinking of getting the same thing so post all you can!


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## StanR (Dec 13, 2016)

Finally an update....

    I managed to get the machine moved into a spare bedroom (downstairs, thankfully, on the level with the garage).
I made the move so I could keep moisture form condensing on bare surfaces, and MOST IMPORTANTLY into a space that is easier to heat.
    I am considering surrounding the machine with visqueen to catch some of the flingings and drop them on the tarp under the machine.
    Have been easy on the machine-bored a few 1/16" holes in 1045 with a carbide mill, a letter "Z" hole; not much I would LIKE to do with this machine, but using it for what I HAVE TO, making some parts to pay for more tools.
   I have no regrets in this purchase. This machine has not caused ONE scowl, and most of my work is in a 1/16" collet. Problem is the tool change, which is common on any R8 without a power drawbar, that is the time it takes to open and lock it down again, may times more that the actual work, that is hitting both ends of the work with a file, then with 1200 at 2000 RPM for 3-4 seconds.
    So..... Has anyone on this forum installed a power drawbar on the PM25MV? If so, what needed to be done? I have the feeling it will be easy, but there is a part of me sounding the alarm of a "simple, 5-minute job". You know, the 5 minute job that has a lot more under the fascia that you didn't see before you started...
     Having been on mills with power drawbars, I fully appreciate the speed in which one can make a tool change...if nothing else, you shouldn't forget which tool you were going to use next....
I should mention that anyone considering a mill in this a mill in this HP/weight/price range.... you will not regret making a purchase like this!

    Any help appreciated!!!!

       Thanks,

         StanR


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## StanR (Dec 13, 2016)

More detail...

    I should mention that as I was researching machines of this size, I had ordered a 4" milling vise before I had decided on which brand. At that time, it seemed as it would be green, and I ended up ordering a 4" Shars machinist vise and a set of parallels. When I finally put the vise on the machine, I found the left side T-bolt wouldn't quite fit-just close enough for a finger-tight bolting down. It seems I should machine that slot on the base of the vise for the bolt to fit properly, because with the factory keys I stuck a parallel in the vise and ran a DI on the X....and the dial didn't budge one bit. 
   So it looks like I will be heading down tomorrow and flipping the vise and giving some clearance to that slot. 
   It is clear to me that Matt didn't ship a machine that had just been "drop shipped" straight off the boat.
   It's a bit of a strain from here, but I am looking forward to adding a lathe to the PM25MV; too many times I catch myself needing one. 

     Later,

        StanR


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## wrmiller (Dec 13, 2016)

Welcome to the addiction sir...


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## jbolt (Dec 13, 2016)

wrmiller said:


> Welcome to the addiction sir...


What addiction? I don't have a problem..


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## brav65 (Dec 13, 2016)

I am surprised that nobody has mentioned it yet, but if there are no pictures it didn't happen. Congratulations on the new mill.  I have a PM-25 as well, although mine has been neglected as I have been super busy with work, and I love it.


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## StanR (Dec 13, 2016)

Aw, KRAP! Pictures? That means lighting... which I am working on. I'm not doing flash, that's for accident scenes!
Still haven't gotten down there yet today, but I'll go after this.

I will say that the aroma of the room, once nondescript, now has a good nose of swarf, Rapid Tap (the old formula worked better!) and the sheet of plywood on the floor.

I am wondering how I will be doing any heavy (?? 3/16 end mill?) cutting without vibration. I was thinking of a "jacket" filled with lead scrap and shot. Try to get vibrations through that.

    OK gotta go. More later. Maybe a pic or two tomorrow.

     Later

    StanR


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## T Bredehoft (Dec 13, 2016)

I just cut some 4140 half hard, (RC30 or so) with a 5/16 four flute end mill, .100 deep, .200 wide. at 650 rpm. I won't lie and say it was smooth, but I wouldn't say there was objectionable vibration. My PM25 is mounted on a piece of old cabinet top, Formica on glued sawdust. there is a piece of rubber/cloth damper material between them, but I was pleased it wasn't jumping around.


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## ch2co (Dec 13, 2016)

Don't 'lectrocute your self just so a few of us can see your pictures. 

CHuck the grumpy old guy


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## StanR (Dec 14, 2016)

OK

     Got clearance on that vise.. the "slot" was an unfinished casting, with knobs sticking out about .060".
Went full depth with the first end mill I purchased in 1995- it had a guest appearance on a drill press for spot facing some holes, then into the box. This cut was 3/4" deep, .030" wide; I had no way to check for sand inclusion. 
     Based on the sound, there was none. 
     Now that the slot is smooth, I have play with the keys- I may just remove them. Goodbye to the good fit, but that was based on pretty small bits of iron that probably would have crumbled.
Machine base mount: 5/8 mill cert plywood, 4 ' x 4', laid gently over the carpeting. Rides like a small ship, it's got roll and yawl. But it did an admirable job of cleaning up the slot. No eyebrow furrowing whatsoever. It was over all to soon. Quite a satisfying experience.
     Next job is to make an internal tool for an HO scale boxcar: I need to remove the doors with the mill (injection-molded in-place with the car body) so they won't just snap off. I am envisioning a 6061 tool that fits inside the body, probably held against the tool with hard rubber to avoid marring the exterior (no tool marks allowed, this is probably ABS). The interior of the car has a draft of about 2°, the tool needs to match on both ends and sides. The body will be milled flush in the door area to prepare for a different style door.  If anyone has experience with milling ABS, I am ready for advice; if not, I'll start the book.
      The "door job" is one of the first milling jobs on the list. I am planning on attaching two 123 blocks to the aluminum tool for holding it in the vise, but I will need a length of micro drill rod to get the angle before I begin. I just planned on flycutting all four sides of the tool. I am sure that this machine is steady enough at this point; the cuts will be about 1.25" wide.
     I fear the biggest problem will be the swarf launching event this will initiate. I don't have the visqueen yet, but that probably won't stop me from making the cutter and taking light "test" cuts...

     It is with a great deal of restraint I have managed to muster to remain firmly upstairs; I know if I mount the 123 blocks to the aluminum, I'll be attempting to get as far as I can tonight....which can lead to a tool crash or scrapped part. I'll stay up here, do the calculations for finishing the block, and call it a night.

     Hmmmmm.....   smells like Rapid Tap.

     Later

      StanR


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