# Updated mill order:  Matt  and Ray graciously allowed me to change from a 932 to a 935



## GA Gyro (Oct 16, 2014)

First: THX to all the guys who kept commenting about how much they liked their PM935 mills; appreciate your postings!  :man:

The budget said I should stay with the PM932V/PDF... however the Taiwanese quality really appeals to me!!!
Honestly, it was just bugging me day and night... :nuts:

Sent Ray and Matt an Email last evening, they were gracious enough to allow me to change my order in the 11th hour (and probably minutes counting); Upgraded from a PM932V/PDF to a PM935TS with a VFD.
THX Matt and RAY!!!  :thumbzup3:

Here is the list of mill and accessories in the order:
PM935TS
Accessories:
*Installed Hitachi WJ200 VFD
*Halogen work lite
*X axis power feed
*Z axis power feed
*Easson 3X '12' DRO
*2X 5" vises
*11 pc R-8 collet set
*Clamp set (not on acc sheet)

Matt gave me what I believe was a GREAT deal on the price; Matt is a great guy to deal with.
All is in stock, there is a good chance the mill will be here by the end of October.

More to follow this evening.

GA


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## wrmiller (Oct 16, 2014)

WOW!  Very nice!  :thumbzup3:


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## darkzero (Oct 16, 2014)

Good choice congrats! Yup I talked to Matt this morning & he says he's been selling a lot of them.

Yup, Matt is a great guy, has always taken care of me & once again today. Can't wait to buy my next lathe & mill from him.


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## dave2176 (Oct 16, 2014)

Way to go! Don't forget the pictures.
Dave


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## Maximilian (Oct 16, 2014)

You did the right thing. Once you have something on your mind it'll continue to haunt you until the desire is satisfied :thumbsup2:.

Matt is not only a great guy but utterly patient as he must be dealing with a million questions from existing and potential customers, run a business and trying to have a life at the same time.<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/57a58d4a/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/57a58d4a/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>


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## mgalusha (Oct 16, 2014)

Sweet! 

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk


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## zmotorsports (Oct 16, 2014)

Good choice.  The 935 is a sweet machine that's for sure.


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## tmarks11 (Oct 16, 2014)

+++1.  Knee mill gives you a lot finer control than you would get with the square column mill and a lot more versatility.  

There is a good reason why you see bridgeport style mills in machine shops everywhere, not so many manual square column mills.  

If you got the space for the larger 935 (and the extra $$$), it is an excellent upgrade to consider.


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## GA Gyro (Oct 20, 2014)

Thank you all for your encouragement to get the mill I wanted... now if you can convince the paper my budget WAS written on... :allgood:
There are times one just had to do what they have to do... note I am not recommending to folks to blow their budgets... just get the machinery they want... (figure that one out :lmao: )

Thankfully... I have been busy with work and had a weekend fly-in last weekend (and one upcoming this weekend), so I have not had time to get caught up in the WAITING for a machine.  --- ONLY after the flying is over... 
On a positive note... I spent some time in the hanger last Saturday discussing build details with some guys... mentioned I was gonna set up a machine shop.  I think I am gonna be as busy as I want to be... :rubbinghands:

Sent an Email to Matt this morning, looking to see if there is a collar for the quill of a 935, similar to the one on the 45/932--for a mounting point for the slide of a spindle DRO.  They are looking into it.  

Do not know when the delivery will arrive, however Matt said it was possible I may receive it the week of Oct 27th.  

I went to Amazon and looked at castors... they have 50+ pages of them (wow).  
Settled on a set of 4 of these:  
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1MD3GF40AJX5AYV3BS5T
The weight rating is a bit higher than necessary, however from my research the suggested total weight rating for a set of 4 is based on the rating of two... probably has to do with rocking loads when moving whatever it is carrying.

Am planning to build a frame to carry the mill, similar to:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/21032-Ordered-a-PM-935TV-This-Week
See post #21
With some mods for the castor noted above.

One of the supply houses I deal with, the branch manager is a friend (he and his sister run the branch).  They agreed I could have the mill shipped to their dock (back up dock), I will be there to receive it and inspect the contents.  Then they will deliver it to my home with their lift gate truck and pallet jack... will have a couple of folks to help get it into the basement.  Plan to get some pieces of 2" PVC pipe, and do the Egyptian pyramid building method of moving a heavy item. 
I asked Matt how to get the mill through a standard 36x80 residential door... As always Matt has a solution and is willing to share it:  Simply take the X axis table off... then push it in the direction of the Y axis.  Machine would be considerably less width than the door. :thumbsup2:
And all this is costing me is dinner out at Red Lobster... 

WAITING... WAITING... WAITING...
Oh well... need to get out and do some heating and AC work... then the waiting will go by faster... :allgood:

GA


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## catoctin (Oct 20, 2014)

My only concerns with these guys are the wheel axles and the wheel bearings.  The small screws mounting the wheel axles to the shell caught my eye.  I looked up the wheels on Footmaster's website and these wheels are nylon with no bearings.  The Albions I used (21NG03201S) are glass filled nylon with roller bearings.  Just be careful on the ratings.  I got real skeptical on wheel rating after looking at the offerings on Ebay.  It then boiled down to could I believe the ratings based on the way the casters are constructed.  The problem is there is no uniform way to rate casters.  Once a company comes up with a metric, how much are they guard banding their rating?  What is the metric for the rating based on?

There are a few things I would have done differently with my base design.  I used four swivel wheels and it would have been better to use two fixed.  If you think about it, my mill weighs maybe 1600lbs due to the single phase motor.  The mobile base and power feeds probably brings it up to 1800-1900lbs.  I needed to move the mill maybe 25 feet across a pebble surfaced driveway with expansion joints and over the big expansion joint entering the garage.   Two fixed wheels would have made this monster a little more controllable.  Moving it in the garage was a bit of an exercise.  I needed to move some equipment out of the out of the garage to prevent slamming into it.  An object in motion tends to stay in motion and it is a ***** to stop once it gets going.  It wouldn't always go where I wanted it to with four swivel wheels.

One of the guys suggested doing an outrigger design on the base.  I change my plan to accommodate this.  This was a real good idea since the mill is a bit tall.  Also, it is best to keep the motor down while moving to lower the center of gravity to prevent tip over.  All I can say is moving this guy around is like dancing with the Queen Mary.  A humbling experience.

-Joe         



GA said:


> I went to Amazon and looked at castors... they have 50+ pages of them (wow).
> Settled on a set of 4 of these:
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1MD3GF40AJX5AYV3BS5T
> The weight rating is a bit higher than necessary, however from my research the suggested total weight rating for a set of 4 is based on the rating of two... probably has to do with rocking loads when moving whatever it is carrying.
> ...


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## Rbeckett (Oct 20, 2014)

Congrats on the upgrade!!!!  Having a case of buyers remorse even before the machine arrived was a bad sign, but you went the way I would have recommended.  Once you got it in your head you wanted the 935 you probably would never have been happy with the 932.  Now other than playing the waiting game your good to go, budget be damned.  You can always make a bit more money before it arrives to cover the extra cost and you will be happier with your purchase too.  Good luck and don't forget the arrival pics for the rest of us!!!

Bob


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## GA Gyro (Oct 20, 2014)

Rbeckett said:


> Congrats on the upgrade!!!!  Having a case of buyers remorse even before the machine arrived was a bad sign, but you went the way I would have recommended.  Once you got it in your head you wanted the 935 you probably would never have been happy with the 932.  Now other than playing the waiting game your good to go, budget be damned.  You can always make a bit more money before it arrives to cover the extra cost and you will be happier with your purchase too.  Good luck and don't forget the arrival pics for the rest of us!!!
> 
> Bob



THX Bob!

I have had this rule with myself since I was in my 20's:  A hobby MUST pay its own way... or I do not allow myself to get into it.  
I can say from experience this is one of the hardest rules one can put themselves under... worse than, well, never mind... :roflmao:

I did a business plan back in August, when I more or less decided I was serious about setting up a shop.  The main part of the plan was realistic expectations of what I could sell in the way of making parts for folks.  By Mid September I knew I could make enough $$$ to pay for the machines and tooling.  Then a few more potential deals came along... so I became more bold about the machines to buy (first it was upgrading from a 1236 to a 1340GT, then the topic of this thread; upgrading from a 932 to a 935).  Still would like to have a head style mill... probably build a CNC version one of these days.  

The part which really got me going: was/is the Taiwanese quality.  I am a quality buff... appreciate things made well; the subtle details are worth the $$$ to me.  

So now that I have the potential business, I get to have the machines I wanted...  

As some of my friends in the gyro world say:  Life is Grand!  :thumbzup3:


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## GA Gyro (Oct 20, 2014)

catoctin said:


> My only concerns with these guys are the wheel axles and the wheel bearings.  The small screws mounting the wheel axles to the shell caught my eye.  I looked up the wheels on Footmaster's website and these wheels are nylon with no bearings.  The Albions I used (21NG03201S) are glass filled nylon with roller bearings.  Just be careful on the ratings.  I got real skeptical on wheel rating after looking at the offerings on Ebay.  It then boiled down to could I believe the ratings based on the way the casters are constructed.  The problem is there is no uniform way to rate casters.  Once a company comes up with a metric, how much are they guard banding their rating?  What is the metric for the rating based on?
> 
> There are a few things I would have done differently with my base design.  I used four swivel wheels and it would have been better to use two fixed.  If you think about it, my mill weighs maybe 1600lbs due to the single phase motor.  The mobile base and power feeds probably brings it up to 1800-1900lbs.  I needed to move the mill maybe 25 feet across a pebble surfaced driveway with expansion joints and over the big expansion joint entering the garage.   Two fixed wheels would have made this monster a little more controllable.  Moving it in the garage was a bit of an exercise.  I needed to move some equipment out of the out of the garage to prevent slamming into it.  An object in motion tends to stay in motion and it is a ***** to stop once it gets going.  It wouldn't always go where I wanted it to with four swivel wheels.
> 
> ...



Interesting thoughts there... Got me to thinking about the total weight of the mill after accessories are mounted.  I think a reasonable weight expectation would be around 2000#; perhaps more with a vise and work are on the table... but one will not be moving it around when using it.

In my case, I will have the mill (still in the crate) inside the basement and a few feet from its place... before it goes into the stand. The point of the castors was to make it portable if I ever needed to move it.  Probably will not happen more than a couple of times a year... and then only a few feet at a time.  The idea of 2 fixed and 2 steerable makes sense, will look into it.  Also the idea of designing the wheels on the base as 'outriggers' makes good sense also!  Now I understand why you had that extra block on the bottom for the fixed feet. 

I do appreciate the basic frame you posted in your thread... especially with the lip inside to hold the machine.  May take some of your advise on the castors and outrigger design... time to think this one out.
Will post my thoughts when I decide what to do.

Appreciate your input!

GA


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## tmarks11 (Oct 21, 2014)

GA said:


> Sent an Email to Matt this morning, looking to see if there is a collar for the quill of a 935, similar to the one on the 45/932--for a mounting point for the slide of a spindle DRO.  They are looking into it.


this mill is designed just like a bridgeport; the quill position is indicated by a traveling nut inside a slot; most spindle dro conversion I have seen bolts one end of the dro to that traveling nut.

Google "bridgeport quill dro" and you will find a bunch of example pictures.  You can buy fairly low priced kits designed exactly for that purpose.  No collar is needed.

note that on a knee milling, vertical movement for milling is done with the knee.  The quill is used for drilling, or boring.  DRO on the knee (which I think you are getting) is a must-have in my book; I have spent way too much time counting hand cranks in the absence of one.  Dro in the quill is a "nice to have".


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## Falcon67 (Oct 21, 2014)

>I have had this rule with myself since I was in my 20's:  A hobby MUST  pay its own way... or I do not allow myself to get into it.
Hahaha.  Thinking of "hobbys" in the price range of machines - 

Drag racing - way to make 1 million $ is to start with 10 million $
Rock Climbing - "pay" is not killing yourself
Photography - maybe, if good and lucky at marketing.  Say Cheese, is that a L Grade lens?
Flying - only if you take paid passengers
RV - see Flying (these two may be a bit much since we just priced a used RV.  I could buy a whole machine shop)
Fishing - Lots of minnows died while we owned a boat and 99% of the fish we ate was served at a restaurant.  220HP Ranger bass boat, who cares about them damn fish, we're flyin' baby!
Golf - got to get in the PGA first I think.  Must...have...Ping...
Shooting - how many rifles and pistols does one person need?  Oooh look at that Ruger .357, bet that shoots nice...
Model Trains - priced vintage Lionel rolling stock lately?

Just have fun and let the kin folk part it out later to cover expenses.


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## GA Gyro (Oct 21, 2014)

Problem is.... too many things I enjoy doing... had to draw a line somewhere or I would always be broke... hew:

And that line is hard to follow sometimes.  :makingdecision:

SOOO:

Each of them needs to pay their own way... or at least make up the investment... even if there are endless hours I do not get paid for.  

The solution... turn a hobby into a business; Just takes some thinking, some planning, some marketing, some work... and one can most times break even or maybe hustle a few bucks... :holdphone:
Rarely, do I get a decent return on the time I put in... but most of the time I get my investment back.  :allgood:


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## Rbeckett (Oct 22, 2014)

I would predict that unless you have a few friends who appreciate high quality parts and accessories.   Otherwise it is going to be a while before the street trade starts walking and asking the question of how much to do something.  But it will happen and you can make it work it's just how determined you plan to be.  I predict that you are doing something rather that worry about what you can't change

Bob


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## zmotorsports (Oct 22, 2014)

GA said:


> Problem is.... too many things I enjoy doing... had to draw a line somewhere or I would always be broke... hew:
> 
> And that line is hard to follow sometimes.  :makingdecision:
> 
> ...



I understand your plan but unless you have contacts it may be hard to get enough machine work to get a very quick ROI on the machinery.  I have been in business since 1997 and it is just a side business.  I have always worked on automotive and motorcycles for friends and friends of friends which helped to support my racing addiction as well as my tool addiction.  My goal was to eventually have a shop that was equipped well enough to perform any and all jobs that I required.  Once I had that I would stop doing side work and only work on my own stuff.  So basically the side business was a means to an end not something to get rich at.  I knew that going in to it and accepted that.  I actually made more money before I got my business license when everything was under the table.  The only two reasons I got my business license were one, so I could get discounts and parts which would allow me to have a small mark-up and make a few bucks on parts in addition to my labor and second, because I wanted to be legal just in case any of my neighbors turned me in for working in my home shop.  Turns out that was paranoia because my neighbors couldn't care less and several are my best customers.  Then again I am respectful of the time in which I am out there and don't run any air tools nor work with the shop door open after 9:00 pm.  I also work by appointment ONLY so there are no vehicles sitting around in the yard (wish I could say the same thing for my neighbors).

All that said, I have been at this a long time and had a small lathe/mill combo that merely supported my racing as well as some of the chassis that I was getting in to fabricating for clients.  Over the past nearly two years now I have had many more machining specific jobs come through the door once people found out that I do machining (and welding).  This is why I was able to justify stepping up to larger and nicer equipment.  I looked for nearly a year for old iron but living in a machinery desert I didn't want a lengthy restoration project, I wanted to hook up and make chips (ie. money) right away.  

I went back through my records and calculated approx. how much I had been making off of just machining projects alone then added just a little for growth with new equipment.  I told my wife I wanted a maximum of 2-year ROI.  I did not finance any equipment because we had just sold our race car and race quads so the money was liquid to purchase the equipment but I wanted to recoupe it as quickly as possible and thought two-years should be achievable.

Currently I am on target after only having my equipment a couple of months but my wife would like me to "take time to smell the roses" sort of speak.  I don't know that I will ever completely quit doing work for other people because to be honest I really enjoy it, other than the dealing with people part.:nuts:  Most people are good but there are a few that really get under my skin. I am definitely going to cut back in the near future though on the amount of work I do for others.  I am lucky as I have the luxury of being picky about "who" I do work for as I still have a full-time job and don't rely 100% on my home shop business.  If a job comes up that I am not interested in doing, I simply turn it away.  I only do the jobs that interest me, unlike when I first got started and took anything and everything that came my way.  I have also gotten very cautious about WHO I do work for because of who I want in my shop.  I am not allowed to advertise as part of the stipulation with the city when I got my business license so everything is word of mouth.  I am to a point where if I don't know the person they had better come from one of my reputable clients or contacts, otherwise I turn them away.  This again may be paranoia but my brother was robbed a few years back and even with alarms and monitoring I worry about some low-life taking my life's work.

I only mention this because I highly recommend you go into this with a plan rather than just winging it.  If you have to make money at it then calculate accordingly and plan accordingly.  If you don't absolutely need to make the money then that is an added benefit and can give you some movement on the equipment choices.  This was the way it was for me.  Plus my wife wanted me to have the kind of quality machines that I have set my standards to.

All this is just my opinion based on my experience, so take it for what it is worth.


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## GA Gyro (Oct 22, 2014)

THX Bob and Mike for you posts... Appreciate the input!

My brother spent over a decade in a machine shop, became an accomplished 'manual' machinist... then around 1980 when the shop bought some NC machines, he started doing the 'tapes' (remember the tele-type machine with 1" wide paper tape).  Richard (brother) even wrote some code in 'Basic' for running NC machines back when. 
I spent a summer at the same shop, took to it easily. 

When I first decided I was gonna set up a shop in my basement... Richard tried to discourage me.  Said it was difficult to learn, hard to get business, and expensive (machines are less than 1/2 the expense)... all very true.  
Just one problem:  When folks try to discourage me from doing something... it seems to encourage me instead...   I am sure many others here have that same defective gene... :lmao:

Tomorrow (Oct 23) I will be 62 :bday:  
Other than a few short stints at sales (independent contractor), I have been self employed since 1979, the better part of my life... literally learned how to run a business the hard way... just jumped in.  Now running a business is another thread... one I will gladly add my $0.02 to if someone is interested. 
(Did not see an emoticon for 2 cents).

I think it was in the Spring of 2014, when I more or less realized if I wanted to do some specific modifications on gyro-copters... I would have to either pay for custom parts to be made, or get a lathe and mill.  The idea of setting up a shop has been something I have always wanted to do... just for fun (insert that rule to keep me from going broke).  hew:

I decided I would spread the word around and see what response I received about making custom parts...
So far the response is much better than I suspected.  :thumbsup2:
If I can get my investment back in 2-3 years... I think I will be doing well.  If actually 2 years or less... I will consider that a big success.  :thumbzup3:

There are some ideas I have to design some specific parts, test them, and if they work... make a few and sell them... will discuss that next year when I have the design done and start in on the proto-type.

I see this shop thingy as an adventure... as I do most of life... Plan ahead, then dive in and have a good time figuring it out.  Like taking a bushel of lemons and making lemonaide from them... :victory:

THX again for the input... probably will be back asking questions along the way.

GA


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## GA Gyro (Oct 23, 2014)

One of the power tools I need for the shop is a bandsaw... Sent Matt an Email to see what he offered.
Matt said he does not have many in stock currently (that is, currently as of the date of this post); he is not planning to carry any more Chinese saws.  I asked Matt about the saw in the link below... he said it was Taiwanese.

Went ahead and ordered this bandsaw:

http://www.amazon.com/414459-HVBS-7...8&qid=1414113866&sr=8-5&keywords=jet+bandsaws

When I was at 'checkout' at Amazon, I saw one can link their CC rewards points to Amazon for a purchase... Since I rack up a bunch of them using the AmEx card in the business... And I am having a B-day... I decided to use the points to buy a grown up guy toy...  (Did not want to use the phrase adult toy.... whoops).

Crate arrived today... will unpack it and set it up over the weekend.

Pictures to follow.

GA


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## zmotorsports (Oct 23, 2014)

GA said:


> One of the power tools I need for the shop is a bandsaw... Sent Matt an Email to see what he offered.
> Matt said he does not have many in stock currently (that is, currently as of the date of this post); he is not planning to carry any more Chinese saws.  I asked Matt about the saw in the link below... he said it was Taiwanese.
> 
> Went ahead and ordered this bandsaw:
> ...



I have the same one but is about a 1994 model.  Mine is the old Jet green one, made in Taiwan also.  I picked it up used and it works great.


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## GA Gyro (Oct 23, 2014)

Good to hear yours is over 20 years old... and works fine.  The idea of buying something as cheap as possible... then having to spend endless hours fixing stuff that should not break... just does not appeal to me.  IMO that is not the definition of value.  


Somehow... I just think the Taiwanese stuff is better quality... That is:  Not as many corners cut to the point the product will need lots of maintenance and repair.  
Reminds me of the joke at the airport hanger about harbor freight stuff:  'If it has bearings in it... be cautious'... 

Now if the mill will get here... 
Actually I should be thankful... as some folks waited months and months and months...
Like I will do with the lathe.  

GA


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## zmotorsports (Oct 24, 2014)

GA said:


> Good to hear yours is over 20 years old... and works fine.  The idea of buying something as cheap as possible... then having to spend endless hours fixing stuff that should not break... just does not appeal to me.  IMO that is not the definition of value.
> 
> 
> Somehow... I just think the Taiwanese stuff is better quality... That is:  Not as many corners cut to the point the product will need lots of maintenance and repair.
> ...



I would love to have a shiny brand new horizontal bandsaw but I had already spent my budget on the Taiwanese lathe and milling machine.  I found this one on the local classified website for $500.00.  When I went and looked at it I noticed the coolant pump was missing (didn't care because I was not planning on using coolant anyways) and the casters were missing because the guy had it bolted to the floor.  The cabinet was scratched up some but not the end of the world.  I offered him $300.00 and he accepted.

I got it home and removed the saw from the base, pressure washed and re-painted the base with machinery gray, installed two fixed casters and two swivel casters from the local hardware store and ordered some Irwin bi-metal bandsaw blades from Enco on one of their coupon days.

I have used the crap out of it in the past two months and don't know how I lived without it.  I always used an abrasive chop-saw in the past and it worked great but I got tired of having to either move the bikes out of the shop or cover them to avoid the flying sparks.  This is sooooo much cleaner of an operation.

As far as the wait on the mill, I don't think yours is that bad so far.  I waited 22-weeks for my mill from order date to arrival, 20-weeks for my lathe.


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## GA Gyro (Oct 24, 2014)

THX Mike!

I have used an abrasive chop-saw to cut metal... it is a real mess.  Learned quickly to take it outside! 

What blade do you prefer to cut moderate steel?  Cut AL? 
Can I get one blade and use it universally, or would it be better to use different blades for different metals?
Kinda thinking the AL might clog up a fine toothed blade... yet a coarse tooth blade may not cut moderate (4140) steel.

Thoughts?

BTW: There is one more 'shiny new tool' on my list... a TIG welder.
Then it is CL and deals.


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## catoctin (Oct 24, 2014)

GA said:


> I have used an abrasive chop-saw to cut metal... it is a real mess.  Learned quickly to take it outside!



I ended putting mine on wheels for the same reason....to roll it out in the driveway to prevent setting my garage on fire.  It also helps keeping it cleaner in there.  It's interesting how even these abrasive chop saws have degraded over the past ten years.  I have a Milwaukee that my wife bought me one year for Xmas maybe 12 years ago.  It has a cast aluminum base and cast iron hold downs.  It seems all of them including Milwaukee's are all stamped sheet metal now.

The nice thing about your new bandsaw is that this design is highly replicated and just about everyone carries blades for them.


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## zmotorsports (Oct 24, 2014)

GA said:


> THX Mike!
> 
> I have used an abrasive chop-saw to cut metal... it is a real mess.  Learned quickly to take it outside!
> 
> ...



I just put a 10-14 pitch bi-metal blade on mine and so far it is working great for both mild steels and aluminum.  I didn't want to go through the hassle of changing out blades for each either.

You may have to play with the rollers and guides a little to get it to cut accurate but once you take a few minutes to get them set you will be surprised at how accurate it cuts.  I cut some test pieces when setting it up and it sliced off a 1/8" piece dead nuts at 90 degrees and only varied by several thousandths around the perimeter.  This was on a 1.5" diameter piece of 1144 steel.

I just pulled up the part on Enco and I am fairly certain this is the blade I am running.  I can't remember the part number off the top of my head.  They were running a promo so I purchased five of them.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=371-0412&PMPXNO=21108824

Double check your length but I am about 92.3% :thinking:sure this is the one I am using and I am very happy with the manner in which it performs.


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## darkzero (Oct 24, 2014)

GA said:


> .What blade do you prefer to cut moderate steel?  Cut AL?



The stock 6TPI carbon blade that came with my MSC 7x12 cut steel, AL, SS, & even Ti fine, not sure long it would last though but mine has done pretty well for the time I used it. The stock carbon blade that was on my 4x6 sucked. I use Lenox bimetal blades on my 7x12 also, they last forever if not abused. I prefer to run the variable pitch blades. I have 5-8, 8-12, & 10-14. I run the 5-8 most of the time & use the 10-14 when I need to cut stainless exhaust tubing or other thin wall stuff.

The Irwin blades are good too. I used to run them on my 4x6 before I switched to Lenox. The Irwins are always on sale at Enco.

My 7x12 cuts straight right out the box, no adjustments needed. It even came with a test cut piece to confirm. I bet your brand new Jet would be the same way but if not it's not hard to adjust.


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## GA Gyro (Oct 24, 2014)

THX Mike and Will, and THX Mike for the link to the blade.  When I get the saw un-crated and set up, will determine the proper length and order one.

Mike; funny you and I were talking about Mill order/wait time last evening... Received an Email from Ray... the 935 is in the hands of the freight co.  
Looking for it one day next week.  Will do some pics, however they will be slow coming... as I am snowed with HVAC work.
Maybe by the second week of Nov, I will have the stand built, the mill uncrated and on it, and will have gone far enough to start posting pics.  
I know when I read others 'RUMSCC' threads (Receive, Un-crate, Move-in, Set-up, Clean, Chips); when there was a gap of a week between posts... I was wondering what happened.  Hope to get far ahead enough on it, I can post pics every day or so... then wrap it up with some chips flying!

Still need to run the circuit for the mill and lathe... Thankfully the space was just cleaned out over the last weekend.

Again, appreciate the input on the saw blades!

Now I need to learn about TIG welders. (I have a gas powered stick welder to build the stand). 

GA


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