# Lang J6, new old lathe for a newbie



## Jonathan86 (Mar 28, 2014)

Hello,

I was given a Lang J6 lathe for some work I did. From my research, I believe it was made in or around 1950, and I have the 12 speed model. I got a reproduction manual with parts list. It is a wonderfully heavy machine, with a profile like that of an aircraft carrier and weight to match. 

I am not completely new to lathes. I worked for about 8 months in a machine shop, beginning with sweeping the floors and cleaning machines and ending with doing a lot of OD profiling on large pieces (4" OD up to my biggest, roughing out a 30"OD x 30" long piece of steel), and some threading, and boring as well. I learned to do tapered ACME threads, some double start threads, and some multi-section threads too (not sure of the actual term, but on a single piece there were two sections of threads of equal TPI but on different diameters, and their start points had to match up). 

My machine tool experience is therefore with large oil country engine lathes, but limited to keeping them oiled and clean (and not getting hurt). I never had to trouble shoot any issues, or really have any instruction in how to evaluate the working order of a machine. An intro to machining class would be great to provide some basic knowledge base, but I can't take one at this time.

Back to the J6:
- The older gentleman who had this machine for 30 something years was 98 years old when he finally sold his machine shop, and I got the lathe. In his later years he may have neglected maintenance. I have removed buckets and buckets of chips and rancid oil/cutting fluid from the lathe. There are brass cuttings _everywhere. _I understand that he was beginning to have issues doing good work with the lathe, but I do not know what the issues were and how significant they were. Electric had already been removed when we got it, so I have not seen it run.
- We have a rotary phase converter here at the shop, that I hope will be able to power the lathe.
- My intent for the lathe is to use it for some personal gunsmithing work, as well as prototyping work for projects I come up with. I don't need it to put food on the table.
- However, I need to get the lathe cleaned up and powered so that I can begin to identify problems, and get an idea of what it will cost to fix them. I have no money in it, and machines are not made like this any more, so I am not afraid to spend some money over the course of a year or so to get it serviceable. Heck, it may need nothing but a good cleaning and new felts and oil. (Well, I know the threading dial gear is broken - so it does need that at least)

Now, on to the questions: Where do I start? :think1: I built a heavy wood skid for transport which it has been sitting on (indoors )for 8 months - I just have not had time to work on it. I have a 4" Starett machinist level, and I can detect twist in the bed - my ways are not in the same plane. Could this be just due to the skid, and it will return to level once properly set on a pad?

I will put up some pictures and update my progress as I get it placed and wired.

Thanks for your interest,

Jonathan


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## drs23 (Mar 28, 2014)

Jonathan86 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I was given a Lang J6 lathe for some work I did. From my research, I believe it was made in or around 1950, and I have the 12 speed model. I got a reproduction manual with parts list. It is a wonderfully heavy machine, with a profile like that of an aircraft carrier and weight to match.
> 
> ...



Congratulations. Will be looking forward to progress pics. We love rebuild/restore pics ya know.


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## richl (Mar 28, 2014)

Woe! Beefy:-!  Doing a google search yields some interedying info on this machine https://www.google.com/search?safe=...q=lang j6 lathe&hl=en-US&qsubts=1396054295047
Really would love to see more pics on this one.
As for your questions,  i would try leveling to remov . Racking, it effects my cuts and my lathe is not nearly as beefy as yours.

Hth

Rich


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## Jonathan86 (Apr 2, 2014)

Hi guys,

Progress: I cut (6) 1" steel pads, 4"x5", to place the machine on.
Also, I got a stout recovery strap (5,000 lb WLL, and I will use in in a double basket configuration)  to use to sling the J6 for placement. I will have some help this afternoon, and we will use a 10k lb telehandler to stick it on the pads where I want it. There are two sets of holes in the casting intended for passing bars through for slinging, so I cut some thick wall 2" steel tubing to pass through.

Hopefully we will have it in place this afternoon, and I can begin making adjustments to the leveling screws in an effort to bring the twist out of the ways. I have read that, while it may take some time, you can fix any twist problem not related to actual damage. We will see!

I'll try to get some pics up too.

QUESTION: Oil: the manual I have only has this to say about oil: 'It is recommended that Shell VITREA 41 or equivalent grade of oil should be used for all parts of the lathe.'
Initial research shows that this oil is no longer made, but it is an ISO 100 oil. If anybody has a recommendation for a readily obtainable equivalent, I would appreciate it!

Thanks


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## Jonathan86 (Apr 5, 2014)

Hello,

I got the J6 sat in place where I intend to run it. I was sure to leave enough room to work on the back side of the lathe. A small Port-a-power can be a great help for fine tuning the position of the lathe. A 10,000 lb telehandler is even more help!

I need to find a few 12" machinist levels and start squaring these ways.

Jonathan
	

		
			
		

		
	




- - - Updated - - -

Another pic, showing the top of the saddle and taper attachment
	

		
			
		

		
	




And the threads and feeds:


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## rmack898 (Apr 5, 2014)

That's a nice looking lathe complete with a taper attachment. Do you have a tailstock for it?


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## Jonathan86 (Apr 5, 2014)

Hi,
I do,.as well as a steady rest and following rest I believe. Also an Aloris CA qctp with 4 or 5 tool holders and boring bar holders! I will be working on it more tomorrow, and get some more pics up.
Jonathan


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## rmack898 (Apr 6, 2014)

Jonathan,

I'm certainly no expert but I would get power to that lathe, level it up and take a cut on a test bar to find out what shape the machine is in to start with.

Feel the temps of the spindle bearings, look for surfaces that are dry and not getting oil. Run it through all of it's speeds and feeds and listen for any abnormal sounds. Keep notes and make a list of all you find, if it warrants a tear down you will have a guide on where to look closely.

You very well may wind up just giving it a good cleaning and oiling.

Good luck with it and don't forget to take many, many pictures. You will need them and we will like them.


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## Thomas Paine (Apr 6, 2014)

That Lang Jr.  will very well turn out to be a really nice piece.  Congratulations.  Is it a 13"?

_I am not afraid to spend some money over the course of a year or so to get it serviceable._

I am not afraid to _make my own parts_ over the course of a year or so to get it serviceable.  Fixed that for you.


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## Jonathan86 (Apr 6, 2014)

rmack898 said:


> Jonathan,
> 
> I'm certainly no expert but I would get power to that lathe, level it up and take a cut on a test bar to find out what shape the machine is in to start with.
> 
> ...



Thank you for the advice. I hope to have it powered by Wednesday of this week. The spindle bearings worry me: By hand, I can shift the spindle about a visually noticeable amount.
10-4 on the point about lots of pictures!




Thomas Paine said:


> That Lang Jr.  will very well turn out to be a really nice piece.  Congratulations.  Is it a 13"?
> 
> _I am not afraid to spend some money over the course of a year or so to get it serviceable._
> 
> I am not afraid to _make my own parts_ over the course of a year or so to get it serviceable.  Fixed that for you.



Thank you, yes it is a 13" (I understand Lang made a larger lathe with the same name, too).
Good point on making my own replacement parts! I do have access to a knee mill, and a smaller lathe, here at the shop, that should serve me well. 

Thanks,

Jonathan


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## Jonathan86 (Apr 8, 2014)

I removed the cover on top of the headstock which allows for access to and adjustment of the forward/neutral/reverse clutch. Removing the cover also allows for inspection of some of the gear train and lubrication system. The manual details how to adjust the clutch for proper engagement, so I will follow those steps.


Viewing what gears I can see, I see some potential problems. The large gear in the foreground has grooves worn in to a shoulder that shouldn't have any contact with any other gear teeth I believe, the the gear on the shaft in the background has grooves worn along the width of the gear body. I have not counted teeth yet or had time to turn over by hand and really understand what is going on, but it seems it is in need of adjustment.


The drip oiling system is pretty cool, and appears to all be present.


Jonathan


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## tertiaryjim (Apr 8, 2014)

Looks like a really nice and beefy machine.
Whats the diameter through the spindle?


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## Jonathan86 (Apr 9, 2014)

Hello,

The spindle bore is 1 5/8"

Jonathan


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## tertiaryjim (Apr 9, 2014)

1 5/8" is a nice size. As beefy as that machine is I thought it might be a 2" 
Very   SWEET


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## Jonathan86 (May 4, 2014)

Hi All,

I got the machine hooked up to my shop rotary converter and ran it yesterday. Seems to run pretty well so far! There was a very apparent clicking sound, which I discovered to be the cam operated lever hydraulic oil pump. I have not yet chased every oil line, but the lines meant to drip on the headstock gears are flowing. The oil level sight glass drip however is not flowing, so that line must be plugged.

After running for a bit, I drained the oil from the headstock, as well as the change gear case. And I tried to drain from the saddle, but there wasn't any oil to drain. I then filled the headstock and change gear case to the correct level. I tried to add to the saddle, but it leaked all over - could be the reason it was dry, all of the seals may be rotten.

Thanks for following,

Jonathan


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## tertiaryjim (May 4, 2014)

Here's a few examples of level lathe checks.
	

		
			
		

		
	



Many lathes have uneven heights of V ways and it's better anyway to use the flats.
The 6" spans the gap and sits well on the parallels.
If the level is longer than the gap, then set it so it overhangs equally on each side.


	

		
			
		

		
	
This little 4" fits well on the saddle. I put some tool stock that has been trued on a surface grinder down for parallels though this surface is flat enough that the reading is the same without them.



	

		
			
		

		
	
Here I span the saddle with parallels.
All these levels are graduated for 0.005/foot for all lenght's of levels , however,due to temperature the bubble size might make it difficult to understand what it's telling you.
A feeler gauge can be put under the low side to get a level reading. Then whatever gauge is used is the amount out of level in the distance between parallels.

I always check my levels before and during use.
Just get a good reading on one position and the swap ends with the level to see if the readings compare.
It can take a minute or two for the level to settle down after moving so take your time.


	

		
			
		

		
	
Sometimes the adjustment nuts are tighter than they should be and I've seen a couple grown men cry when the nut came free and they tossed the level without the vial protector closed.
I prefer to set the level on a flat, protected surface and get a good grip without crushing the vial tube.
I have a 12" but haven't needed it for the lathe.
The most useful sizes in my shop are the 4" and 6" though larger lathes like yours might need something bigger.


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## Jonathan86 (May 7, 2014)

Thanks for the info, Jim! Helpful photographs.

I do have a 4" Starrett level and a few sets of parallels, unfortunately my bed is too wide for either the level or a parallel to span with other parallels placed in the flat ways. Luckily I'm not in any rush, I'll find something.


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