# Clausing 8530 spindle removal



## calstar (Jan 17, 2015)

The link Terry posted( http://members.core.com/~chessie/headrbld.html )was very helpful, I read and printed a hard copy, did things a little differently but basically used it as a guide. 
Pics below in somewhat of the order the work was done. 

step pulley removed by tapping with the dead blow, bearings drifted out, once the bushing was removed the brake came right off, exposing a path to remove the quill depth limiting screw(which had me puzzled before, once the brake was removed it was a head slapper!). The retaining nut had me puzzled as i only found one hole for a spanner, finally found the other one under hard crust of crude, used an adjustable Park bicycle spanner, nice tool. 

Brian

brake exposed



step pulley off, bushing and brake exposed for easy removal
	

		
			
		

		
	




bearings drifted out of pulley, didn't use dead blow, used ball peen with brass drifts






Soooo evident now with brake removed, set screw out of dial, screw came right out, total mystery before



held quill/spindle in wood vise during different stages of work



wtf, one hole for a spanner?



oops. found it under the crud!



spanner on lower bearing retainer nut
	

		
			
		

		
	




retaining nut unscrewed, there *was not a set screw *on the quill to hold  the retaining nut as mentioned in the thread linked above 



drifted spindle out of quill by holding the quill in my wood vise and used a brass drift and ball peen hammer to tap the splined spindle end, printed copy on bench for reference during work



upper spindle bearing removal from quill, I put brass drift inside of quill on bearing, used punch for extension to reach it, came out like it should



as inserted for removal



Park spanner again



with the star, locking nut and spacer removed the bearings were supported on the wood jaws of the vise. The spindle nose was free to move down, I drove it down and out of the bearings with a brass drift on the splined end




So much for precision bearings, previous owner had replaced the original bearings with Fafnir 205 k , single row bearings that cost $12 on ebay. The one shown by itself was pretty rough(this was the uppermost of the two), I cleaned it with solvent and it was ratchety when dry, the other one was still very smooth. I ordered two unmatched Fafnir 7205wsnu delivered for $90 (suggested replacements, a matched pair would be $400+) Talked to clausing, they wanted $130 each + shipping for unmatched bearings(they don't have matched pairs), yikes! BTW looks like the bearings had way too much grease packed in, Barden suggests a 20% fill for their annular bearings according to one person that rebuilt his clausing mill on another site.






This is the bearing seal(new one shown in retaining nut, old one above it) that was purchased from clausing in the article in Terry's link, when I called clausing about the bearings they quoted $23+shipping for the seal, I ordered 3 of the exact same shipped for $16 from nri-industries on ebay, if anyone wants one pm me, $5 + postage(probably a couple of bucks for USPS 1st class).


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## outboardguy44 (Jan 29, 2015)

Nice work.

I just finished an R&R on the spindle in of my newly-acquired model 8530 mill after isolating an unwanted sound. The pair of bearings at the bottom of the quill were A-1 after I flushed them out with solvent & air-dried, but the one underneath the drive pulley was shot and was the obvious source of the noise.

I have a good friend who is an engineer as well as journeyman tool maker, and he tells me the two lower bearings are precision bearings that are lubed with oil only, no grease involved. The top bearing was just a shielded 6204 SKF, I replaced it with a sealed version.

Thanks for providing the CR part number for the seal in the photo, I'll mosey on over to the local Canadian Bearing store tomorrow and grab a couple, hopefully it will stop the oil drip that is now escaping through/around the old seal.

Best,
T2


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## calstar (Jan 30, 2015)

outboardguy44 said:


> I have a good friend who is an engineer as well as journeyman tool maker, and he tells me *the two lower bearings are precision bearings that are lubed with oil only*, no grease involved. The top bearing was just a shielded 6204 SKF, I replaced it with a sealed version.



Quite a bit of discussion on this subject, some folks use grease, others oil, so.......whatever feels right to you should work just fine.

Brian


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