# New (to me) Logan 200



## TomKro

I was trying to avoid another “project”, but I really wanted to find a lathe, this one was close, and the price was right.

    From the serial number, it’s a real oldie – 1943 timeframe. It’s not real pretty, as the previous owner was in the middle of stripping the paint.  It has some problems – the motor is poor (has to be kick started), the flat belt is definitely on the way out, the chuck appears worn, there’s a chewed up tumbler gear, and the feed drive gear on the back of the spindle has a chipped tooth.   On the plus side, there isn’t a lot of play in the cross or compound slides, the spindle appears to turn smoothly, and all the castings appear fully intact.   I hope to find some replacement parts to get everything working as it should.  

     Can anyone please advise as to how to break the chuck loose?  Should the back of the chuck be soaked in penetrating oil for a while? Are there any sort of locking screws to remove before trying to turn it off?  Is it OK to lock the back gears in place and lightly “malletize” the chuck a bit?   Are there other ways to stop the spindle from turning?    

    Taking the spindle out to get the belt changed has me a bit concerned.  This Logan has been running for 50+ years, and I sure don’t want to bust up anything important.  Does anyone possibly know of specific instructions for getting the spindle out? From what I can tell, there’s a nut on the back and a cap on the front.   Does it just slide out the front?  Any advice would really be appreciated.  

  I guess it’s time to pick up a gallon of WD-40 and few brass brushes.   Plenty of parts to clean up.  
Tom


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## OrangeAlpine

Locking a lathe in the back gears is the time honored method of chuck removal.  Proper chuck installation procedure calls for the final quarter turn to be a quick spin, which effectively locks it in place.  The "lightly" malletizing (or any other "light") procedure will have no impact.  Real effort has to be put into the process.  A few jerks on a large adjustable wrench fitted over a chuck jaw usually works well.  Unfortunately, the "process" has been know to pop teeth out of the backgears.  Knowing where to stop comes from experience.  Fortunately, I don't have that experience.  At least not yet. 

Unless the lathe is very rusty, which yours isn't, I wouldn't expect penetrating oil to be much help.  BTW, WD 40 is not a penetrating oil.

Bill


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## TomKro

Bill,
  The possibility of busting up any of the main gears has me a bit concerned.  I have to bolt the head back onto the bed to give it a try.  
  Good point on the WD40.  I was going to use that to clean up the grease and old goop.  I have to go get some real penetrating oil.  
Thanks for the guidance.
Tom 




OrangeAlpine said:


> Locking a lathe in the back gears is the time honored method of chuck removal.  Proper chuck installation procedure calls for the final quarter turn to be a quick spin, which effectively locks it in place.  The "lightly" malletizing (or any other "light") procedure will have no impact.  Real effort has to be put into the process.  A few jerks on a large adjustable wrench fitted over a chuck jaw usually works well.  Unfortunately, the "process" has been know to pop teeth out of the backgears.  Knowing where to stop comes from experience.  Fortunately, I don't have that experience.  At least not yet.
> 
> Unless the lathe is very rusty, which yours isn't, I wouldn't expect penetrating oil to be much help.  BTW, WD 40 is not a penetrating oil.
> 
> Bill


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## OrangeAlpine

Tom, I'm totally sympathetic with your situation.  Problem is, I don't know how to tell how much force is too much.  For all I know, the busted backgears happen when a 6 ft bar is used.

Bill


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## Pacer

Fashion wooden wedges that you can feed between the back gears and the spindle gears. As you rotate the chuck for removal let the teeth take up the wedge to absorb the pressure. And some penetrating oil never hurt either...


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## rwwells

Hello Tom,

The flat belt appears to be leather, if you have to replace it just cut it and get a kit cut to length and either glue or metal hinged coupled back together. I don't think it is necessary to remove spindle.

The belt kits leather or canvas type can be seen on Ebay. Just make sure you get the right length, not the stretched length of the old belt. 

Others here can give better advise and more info with correct terminology.

RWW


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## stevecmo

Tom,

If you do a search on this site (or Google) you find lots of info - some good, some not so good.  As has been said already, the danger is breaking teeth on the back gear/bull gear.  They will usually come off with a little persuasion, just be careful - no harsh whacks, use a deadblow hammer.  

Yes, remove the gear and nut on the left side of the spindle.  There is also a set screw (sometimes two back to back) in the cone pulley.  The the spindle assembly goes out the right hand side.  It will probably be stuck as well.  I had to make a puller assembly using heavy all thread rod thru the spindle.

If you remove the spindle I would recommend replacing the leather belt with an automotive serpentine belt.  It will give you much better grip on the pulleys.

It looks like a nice lathe and in decent shape.  Good luck.

Steve


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## stonehands

Looks like you found a good Winter project. Another product that has not been mentioned is Loc-tite brand 'Freeze and Release' my gunsmith and I have been having good luck with it on lower receiver and hand screws on double guns.It freezes the part to minus'something' and puts a very thin lube in the joint.We haven't lost a screw yet.I've even started using it on lathe part teardowns.I have several tumbler assemblies for your Logan and alot of misc. parts from a school system inventory that's 25yrs.old.You need a parts book to identify and give me part #'s. If that gear you mentioned is the spindle gear I have one NOS. Get a list togeather and send me a PM if I can be of Help.--David


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## TomKro

Just got back the computer – lots of good info here…

The only progress I made today was picking up some penetrating oil, a can of WD40, some soft metal brushes and a metal wash pan.  When at Tractor Supply I saw a large hangar rod connecting nut that looked just small enough for one of my larger sockets.  I thought that might work in the jaws of the chuck as a turning point so that I don’t beat up that old chuck any more than it already is.  Also, that will limit me to a 2’ breaker bar, so less chance of me doing something too silly.   I do appreciate all the advice on chuck removal.  The chuck may not actually be stuck; I just have to get things back together to find out. More to follow on that in a few days.

Steve – As to spindle removal, I believe you mentioned setscrews in the cone pulley.  I found one setscrew hole and one oil port in the stepped belt cone.  It appears a little odd to me that all the torque from the pulley gets carried thru one screw (?).  I’m really not understanding this quite yet.  

Rwwells – I’m warming up to the idea of using a split belt. I’m a real novice, and maybe I’ll try and get some use out of this machine before I bugger up anything important.  I guess it comes down to how badly I want to clean all the goo out of the head.  I’m still thinking about which way to go.  The chip in the tooth on the spindle gear isn’t real bad, so taking the spindle apart isn’t a functional priority yet, unless I do really badly on the chuck removal.  

Stonehands – I’ve never heard of “freeze and release” – sounds real handy.    When looking at the rack under the edge of the bed, I was really wishing I could take out the flat head screws to paint things up a little nicer.  Those screws look like brass, and I’m concerned about chewing them up.  If I get brave, I may give the freeze and release a try.  

It looks like I only have an hour or so before I have to get things ready for work tomorrow.  I’ll try to update later in the week.  

Thanks to all for the advice.
Tom


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## sophijo

Removing the spindle is not that big a deal and then you can more closely inspect bearings and races. I replaced the leather with a serpentine automotive belt...big improvement.


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## TomKro

Update:

  The chuck came off without too much trouble.  I decided to start with what I thought would be the lowest load on the gears, and work my way up from there, if needed.  I used a 1/2 inch wratchet with an impact socket tied to a long hex nut (threaded rod connector) locked in the chuck.  Spun the cone by hand then pulled back on the handle.  I tried it 2x with no luck, but my weight lifter son had no trouble at all.  It was likely more speed and coordination, but he's stronger, faster and more coordinated, so who knows.  

  Unfortunately, the nose of the spindle is a real mess.  Someone bored into it a few times, and the largest cutout nibbled away a little more than an 1/8 inch off the nose.  I was a bit disgusted  (Newbie error - never thought to look).  It can possibly be repaired, but it won't be easy.   It certainly has to come out. 

  I started pulling things apart, and that thing is in there tight.   I tried some light "persuasion" with a block of soft wood and a rubber mallet, but I believe a puller is going to be needed.  Steve/Stevecmo - if you can describe how you braced against the headstock, I would appreciate hearing about any puller setup that worked.  I was thinking about some 2x4's along the bed as spacers, a plate with a hole on the end, and a 3/4 threaded rod.   
  I can't recall the specific web site, but I do recall reading about having to line up the gear key with a slot in the inner bearing cover.  Any other things to watch out for?
  Does it help to apply a little heat to the front bearing area?  The paint is gone anyway, but not sure how much I could get away with before causing problems.  
  Does anyone know if spindles from other Logan models may also fit the model 200?  

Hopefully, this thing won't have to sit too long.  
TomKro


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## stevecmo

Tom,

I think you have the idea of how the puller works.  I first tried using 2x4's and they didn't cut it.  I took a 1/2" x 3" bar and bent it into a "U" so the so of the "U" would fit around the boss on the front of the headstock.  Then I used a 1/2" x 3" bar with a hole in it to span the legs of the "U".  I used 3/4" all thread thru the hole and I think just heavy flat washers on the left side.  

I used lots of penetrating oil around the front bearing / casting.  Then just start cranking slowly.  It'll break loose.  Pine Sol is the best for cleaning the bearings.  Just douche until all the dried grease and gunk comes out.  Then wash with hot soapy water then blow dry with compressed air.  DO NOT spin the bearing with the compressed air - it will ruin the races.  Then just a little oil until you're ready to grease and assemble.

Steve


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## stonehands

Tom, I made a trip to the shop today,and found of all things, a Logan spindle with the front bearing assembly. Perfect spindle threads and what should be a good bearing. These parts came off of school machines in the 70's and never were used in a production shop.Let me know if you want me to ship the 3 gears and the spindle or you want to drive out,I have a show(gun) that I'm working this weekend but if I ship tomorrow AM you might have them this week-end.--David


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## TomKro

Steve - I really like the idea of the U shaped bar.  I don't think I have anything big enough to shape 1/2 x 3, but maybe I can weld up some iron pipe and flat stock to duplicate the general idea.  I'm always looking for an excuse to dig out the little Hobart.   

Stonehands - That's very good news on the spindle, I'll PM you shortly.  

Many Thanks,
TomKro


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## stevecmo

Tom,

I'm sure the 1/2" bar is way overkill.  I would think 1/4" or 3/16" would be plenty stout if that makes it easier.

Steve


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## TomKro

Spindle Removal Update:  I couldn’t find anything suitable for bending up flat bar to make a U shaped bracket for a puller, so I splurged and mail ordered a short piece of 5 inch schedule 40 aluminum pipe and a short piece of flatstock.  See attached pic for the setup.  

  Spindle removal was quite the job.  It turns out that the bearing fit really wasn’t the major problem. The bull gear was hung up on some deformation from the locking screw.   I had to use flat bars between the hub of the bull gear and the inside of the headstock to hold the gear back as the spindle was pulled out (the white wooden stick in the image didn’t hold up very long).  I ended up using two layers of 1/8 x 5/8 flatstock on each side of the gear hub to prevent the gear teeth from jamming into the case.  I had to work the spindle backand forth about 5x before it came out.  The gear was on so tight that the threads on the 5/8 inch threaded rod were starting to give out, and I had to straighten the flat bars a few times along the way.    

  Anyway, the spindlefinally made it out.  The next problem is getting the capture nut off the spindle. There’s a slot for some sort of spanner wrench (which I don’t have), and so far I can’t break it loose with a pin and a big hammer.  It’s presently soaking in penetrating oil. 

  Holding the spindleis also a bit of a problem.  I held it in a vise with soft jaws, trapping the key in the soft jaws to try to stop the shaft from turning.  The grip was some what marginal.  

   Any ideas for breaking the capture nut loose?  I’m not aware of the name of the wrench used, but I think I need to get one before I do any more damage to the slot in the capture nut.    
Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,  TomKro


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## mrbreezeet1

Did you ever get the nut off?
Can you put the spindle in some soft jaws, and bump the nut loose with a punch in a air hammer?


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## TomKro

mrbreezeet1: 

  No luck getting the nut off yet. I now have the proper spanner wrench, and I re-installed the rear gear to grip the assembly in a vise, but still had problems.  I had the gear gripped with soft jaws, but my soft jaws are way too soft (almost rubbery), and just can't hold things in place.  I made a trip to the local hardware store to look for some copper or lead sheet for the vise, but I haven't found anything yet.  I guess I'll just wrap the jaws in a thick layer of aluminum tape and give it another try.  

  Hadn't thought of using an air hammer.  I'll try again with just the wrench, and maybe just a little heat on the edge of the collar.  If that doesn't do the trick, I know I have a worn out air chisel that maybe can be ground a little to fit the slot.  Thanks for the idea. 

  I used up most of this weekend on lawn work and taxes, but I think I hear Logan calling from the basement... 

Thanks again, TomKro







mrbreezeet1 said:


> Did you ever get the nut off?
> Can you put the spindle in some soft jaws, and bump the nut loose with a punch in a air hammer?


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## Dave Smith

Tom---I was reading your post and was wondering if you used the push in slide spindle lock (on front to the left of your id plate) ?   that is what I use to lock the spindle to knock the chuck loose. to unlock it you have to push the release spring on bottom of slide up as you pull the handle out.  I noticed that no one else mentioned that as a spindle lock is why I'm mentioning it.  I use it also to lock the spindle when I spin mount my chuck.  Dave   I really like my logan 200


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## mrbreezeet1

Dave Smith said:


> Tom---I was reading your post and was wondering if you used the push in slide spindle lock (on front to the left of your id plate) ?   that is what I use to lock the spindle to knock the chuck loose. to unlock it you have to push the release spring on bottom of slide up as you pull the handle out.  I noticed that no one else mentioned that as a spindle lock is why I'm mentioning it.  I use it also to lock the spindle when I spin mount my chuck.  Dave   I really like my logan 200



Are you sure your not talking about engaging the back gear with the bull gear still locked to the cone pulley?


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## mrbreezeet1

mrbreezeet1 said:


> Are you sure your not talking about engaging the back gear with the bull gear still locked to the cone pulley?



also sounds like your rod is installed wrong. Should pull out to engage,

No, maybe you did say pull out?


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## Dave Smith

yes you both are right--I pull the knob out to lock it and is this the correct method for me to use? I've never had a problem doing it this way for the 30 yrs I've used it and I have never had to bang hard on my chuck to release it. thanks for your info. Dave      --note **My lathe was missing the back gear in my lathe since I bought it--I did buy a back gear last year for it with some broken teeth, but I need to fix them before installing it on my shaft.


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## TomKro

Dave Smith: 

   From this and your previous post, it appears that you locked the spindle by using the back gear and engaging the pin in the bull gear.  I didn't quite understand how that would fully lock the spindle if your lathe didn't have the back gear installed, but maybe I misunderstood.  I'm guessing that with the drive belt engaged, there would be resistance to spindle motion.  

  To clarify what I did to loosen the chuck from my spindle, please realize that my lathe was (still is) in pieces, so no belt was attached.  I was concerned about damaging the bull gear, so I started with the back gear engaged, but the bull gear disengaged.  I spun the cone (and the back gear) by hand, and then snapped the chuck backwards.  I was guessing that the load on the bull gear from the inertia of spinning the cone was less than the load the gear teeth would see if I locked everything up and twisted hard on the chuck.  In hindsight, I certainly over-analyzed the situation.  




Dave Smith said:


> yes you both are right--I pull the knob out to lock it and is this the correct method for me to use? I've never had a problem doing it this way for the 30 yrs I've used it and I have never had to bang hard on my chuck to release it. thanks for your info. Dave      --note **My lathe was missing the back gear in my lathe since I bought it--I did buy a back gear last year for it with some broken teeth, but I need to fix them before installing it on my shaft.


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## burnrider

Chuck removal only. Anything wrong with chucking up a nut, using an impact wrench with a gloved hand on the pulleys for some resistance? No risk to the back gear/bull gear- some to the chuck itself.


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## robert1352

Thats going to be really nice when its all finished!!


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## TomKro

Very sorry for the late reply.  

burnrider:  It sounds like your idea of holding the cone and using an impact wrench would be best for minimizing the potential for gear damage.  It makes sense to me to start at the lowest potential for damage, and work your way up, if needed. 

robert1352:  Thanks for the encouragement, but sometimes I feel like I'm taking two steps backward for each step forward.  

When I pulled the headstock apart, I snapped off an easy out trying to remove the setscrew from the cone oiler port.  Last week I visited a few machine shops in the area, but no one in town has a EDM machine to burn it out.  At least I was given a contact for a place with an EDM that isn't too far away.    

I'm still trying to get the capture nut off the spindle.  I gripped the spindle via the sides of the bull gear, used a little heat on the nut, and still no luck.  I was gripping it hard (no soft jaws) and I still couldn't hold it (gear popping out of the vise).  I have to order some brass or something with a little give, and try the air hammer as suggested by mrbreezee1.  

The good news is that I'm taking a road trip to see stonehands next week.  With a little luck, the parts he hunted around for will match what I have.  Many thanks stonehands, you've been a huge help.  

 If I can just get done with the yard work and finish the car maintenance, I can get back to breaking Logan parts.


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## mrbreezeet1

TomKro said:


> I can get back to breaking Logan parts.



LOL :lmao:


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## TomKro

Mini Update on the sloooow Logan effort:

I found a local shop to burn the broken "easy out" from my flat belt cone.  They did a beautiful job at a very reasonable price.  They "upsized" to a 5/16 thread, and salvaged the part.  

Per mrbreezeet1's idea, I used an air chisel to break loose the capture nut on the spindle bearing.  Three or four hits and it was off.  Thanks mrbreezeet1, for the help.  Holding the bull gear tight in a vise was part of the problem.  I ended up using 0.093 inch, 6x6 lead sheet from an industrial supplier to make a decent set of soft jaw covers.  The 0.093 inch material cut easy with a chisel and was easy to shape, in case anyone else has to do this.  

Also, I got lucky on a Craigslist deal.  I was still hunting for an inexpensive spindle that I could use, and needed to replace some carriage parts.  A fellow up in Trenton NJ had a partial model 210 headstock and a carriage for sale.  The headstock looked a little rough, but the spindle came out easy and looks usable.  The carriage was not from the same machine, and appears to be in excellent condition - almost no play, not even any dirty grease.  It's so nice, I think I'll swap most of the parts onto my nasty old saddle, and save the good saddle in case I ever get the bed cleaned up.  It's just too nice to bugger up.  It was a 4 hour drive, but it worked out well.  

Can anyone please provide guidance on bearing repacking?  The main spindle bearing is sealed on one side, and I didn't know if the cover can be removed and replaced?  If not, can a bearing be properly hand packed from one side?  I was trying to get the bearing off the spindle, but I'll need to have some sort of tool made up to push against the inner edge of the bearing.  There isn't much exposed past the shoulder on the spindle nose, so I'm concerned about damaging the bearing.  Since the spindle is out, I was thinking of just soaking the whole end of the spindle and repacking the bearing by hand with the bearing in place (?).  Any thoughts/guidance?

Thanks in advance, TomKro


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## stevecmo

Hi Tom,

Glad to see you're making some progress!  If the bearing is in good shape there is no reason to remove it from the spindle.  Yes, you can hand pack it with grease while on the spindle - not a problem at all.  You only need to only pack between 1/4 and 1/3 full - don't fill with grease.  Use a good bearing grease.  If I remember correctly I opted for the high dollar Kluber to be on the safe side.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Steve


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## TomKro

Steve -

  Thanks for the bearing packing guidance.  I have some cleanup work to do on the spindle, so I'll work that before soaking/repacking the bearing. I know I have some decent bearing grease laying around somewhere.  It might be 5 or 6 years old, but it has to be better than the 20?, 30? year old grease that's in there now.  

  Now that I have usable spindle parts, I'm getting fired up to make some progress.  I still have my fingers crossed, because who knows what might happen when throwing together headstock parts from a few different machines.   

 The weather was really nice yesterday on the 4th, so I stripped paint from the bed and the bed risers.  Headstock and tailstock are next.  I can't wait to get it painted and start putting things together.

Thanks, TomKro


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## stevecmo

Looking good Tom.  I see chips in your near future.  )


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## Redlineman

Hey;

I know the territory you are treading. I own #15235 (slightly older than yours). I have it completely down right now. It had tremendous damage to 4 of the gears. They had been broken, brazed, and broken again to the point that the lathe would not run. The back gear rack was also missing. I used the block of wood and sledge hammer method to remove my spindle. It only took one moderate biff. A used spindle that I bought for the cone gear had a super stuck spindle bearing lock ring. I heated and wrenched and heated and wrenched and it would not budge. One day I tried it and it just spun off. It had its time to come off and that was that! I've been held up for a couple of months now, but have been doing some very little things to move it forward. Mostly just looking at it. I milled the mounting surfaces on the bed supports the other day. Took quite a bit of cutting to true them up, and that should allow things to square up and level a little better. I have stripped almost everything to bare iron, and have some items painted in the proper dark blue/grey hue that Logan used. Benjamin Moore Baby Seal Grey #2119-30 if you are interested. Alkyd enamel. Dead ringer for the original. You can find almost anything for these on ebay, and Logan Actuator (lathe.com) still has almost every part you need brand new for these if you can afford that route or can't find it otherwise. The Logan Yahoo group is also pretty keen.

Keep the reports coming. Might get me off my arse and back to the rebuild!


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## burnrider

For puller improvision: If you have a band saw, ABS makes a good base for threaded rod pulling. AL is still better for a tough larger dia bearing. Plastic pipe is more versatile for the cost.


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## TomKro

Steve:  Thanks for the encouragement.  It might be a while before any smoking chips hit the floor, but I am enjoying just getting it together.  I think my wife is jealous of all the time I spend with Logan. 

Redlineman:  I’ve been stripping parts also.  I was washing parts with old stale gas, and stripping with something that advertised a “fresh citrus scent”.  It was really hot and humid when I did the stripping, and all I could think of was that there’s probably a “fresh citrus scent” somewhere in hell.   I switched to a cleaning product called Krud Kutter and it works well and even takes off a good bit of paint.   I picked up a can of that Benjamin Moore paint, and it does match really well.  I didn’t strip the cast belt sheave, and I had trouble telling new paint from old. The paint store said it can go direct onto clean metal, but I have a lot of grey oil base primer, so I think I’ll still prime the bare metal before the top coat.  

Burnrider:  I sure wish I had a decent bandsaw.  For plastic I just use a hacksaw.  For metal, I have a decent abrasive chop saw, but I have to haul it out in the yard to use it.  

Can anyone please advise on a few new issues?
a. I may have trashed a decent spindle bearing (the small one).  I pried off one of the shields to get to the inside to clean it out, and now I’m wondering if there’s something I can use to substitute for the missing shield on one side?
b. I didn’t plan on pulling off the nameplates for painting, but the edges look pretty nasty - so I’d like to get it off.  The holes for the drive rivets are not thru holes, so I guess they have to be drilled out. Any ideas on the right way to do this? I have a dinky benchtop drill press, but nothing special in the way of bits.  Does anyone possibly have a source for those old style short drive rivets?

Many thanks for all the assistance.  
TomKro


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## RandyM

TomKro said:


> I didn’t plan on pulling off the nameplates for painting, but the edges look pretty nasty - so I’d like to get it off.  The holes for the drive rivets are not thru holes, so I guess they have to be drilled out. Any ideas on the right way to do this? I have a dinky benchtop drill press, but nothing special in the way of bits.  [/SIZE]Does anyone possibly have a source for those old style short drive rivets?
> [/FONT][/COLOR]
> Many thanks for all the assistance.
> TomKro



Tom, Be very careful drilling out drive screws. They are very hard and I know, I found out the hard way and a couple of drills later. My advise is to try and pull or pry them out. If you can not do that, break them off and just re-locate new holes with new drive screws. You can cover the broken ones with some JB Weld sanded down and paint to make it look good as new. The drive screws are available at McMaster Carr here.


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## nayr

After doing much of what was discussed here, though it may be too late, I figured I'd give my two cents, just for the electronic record (which has helped me out quite a bit in the past). As for chuck and capture nut removal this is what I did: I took the chuck off first. What I did was put a screwdriver in the hole for the oil setscrew in the pulley and rested this against the headstock casting, then just spun the chuck off with a punch. This way any damage would occur to the screwdriver (and less likely the pulley) rather than the more fragile gear teeth. I did the capture nut similarly, with the screwdriver in the setscrew hole but for a punch I used a little flatblade screwdriver to spin it off. This helped dig in a little, after I tried with a pin punch that just kept slipping out. 

As for your current issues this is just what came to my mind:

a) The bearing shield: A thin piece of sheet, a compass, a sabre saw, a half round file, and a little bit of patience.

b) The plates: I would just grind the heads off the rivets with a rotary tool. As for replacing them I would just epoxy them back on after putting a little bead of solder where the rivet holes used to be.


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## TomKro

RandyM:  When I searched on-line, I thought those things were called drive rivets, so I didn't find them.   Thanks a bunch for the link.  Thanks also for the warning about the material hardness.  I hope to avoid damaging the nameplate, so I think I'll try to get the heads off with a Dremmel tool per Nayr's suggestion.  

Nayr:  I have some thin sheet, but not so sure about the patience.  I'll have to give it a try and see if I can get it to come out reasonably clean.  Thanks for the ideas.

TomKro


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## Showoff

TomKro said:


> RandyM:  When I searched on-line, I thought those things were called drive rivets, so I didn't find them.   Thanks a bunch for the link.  Thanks also for the warning about the material hardness.  I hope to avoid damaging the nameplate, so I think I'll try to get the heads off with a Dremmel tool per Nayr's suggestion.
> 
> Nayr:  I have some thin sheet, but not so sure about the patience.  I'll have to give it a try and see if I can get it to come out reasonably clean.  Thanks for the ideas.
> 
> TomKro




If you carefully grind flats on 2 sides you can unscrew the drive screws.

john



.


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## TomKro

John:

   That's a whole new level of "careful" for me.   I'm guessing I'd have to find one of those mini locking plier tools to try to grab the flats(?).  I'm really wondering what my chances are of getting out four in a row that way.  If I can get them out that way, I'll definitely post some pics.  Thanks for the idea.  

  Presently, I have some painted parts drying in the garage.   Can't make much progress this weekend, as I promised my wife a little road trip.  

TomKro


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## mrbreezeet1

l take it you can not get to the back side of the drive screws?
Can you put tape down to protect the badge, and get them to turn with a chisel?
if you decide to grind them,support your die grinder firmly on a surface,grind the 2 bottom
ones,then place stock on to of the surface, and do the top of the drive pin.
hope this is understandable?



TomKro said:


> John:
> 
> That's a whole new level of "careful" for me.   I'm guessing I'd have to find one of those mini locking plier tools to try to grab the flats(?).  I'm really wondering what my chances are of getting out four in a row that way.  If I can get them out that way, I'll definitely post some pics.  Thanks for the idea.
> 
> Presently, I have some painted parts drying in the garage.   Can't make much progress this weekend, as I promised my wife a little road trip.
> 
> TomKro


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## TomKro

Nameplate Removal Update:

Came back from my road trip last night and was itch’n to try to get something done.  

Mrbreezeet1 - thanks for the idea concerning drive screw removal with a chisel.  I planned to try that first, then try to grind some flats if that didn’t work, then just grind the heads off if nothing else worked.  

My chisel talents aren’t so great.  I sharpened a punch/chisel and used some aluminum tape to try to protect the nameplate.  My first hit took a chunk out of the chisel edge.   Darn, those screw heads are hard.   Maybe too steep an angle…  Flipped the chisel over, tried again…   Second chisel edge now gone.    OK,maybe I shouldn’t be using a 2 lb. hammer.  I reached for an old wood chisel to try again, but stopped myself before I broke that.   Started hunting for Dremel tool cutters, but decided to give the wood chisel a second try.   

The sharp edge of the wood chisel was able to get under the edge of the nameplate.   I laid the flat edge of the chisel against the casting and gently tapped inward on alternating sides adjacent to each drivescrew.   This lifted the screws up without any damage to the nameplate.   Image attached.    Now I can finish cleaning up that casting.

Many thanks for all the great ideas to get that thing off.  This is really a great forum in that so many folks are willing to share their experiences.   I had no idea where to start, and would have made a real mess if I went for my initial plan of just trying to drill those screws out.  

Thanks again, TomKro.


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## RandyM

Glad you had success. It will make your restoration a lot nicer. Thanks for the update.


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## Redlineman

Man!

Good going!! Sure wish I had had all that great advice when I took my nameplate off. Didn't know nuthin from drive screws. Just chiseled the heads off. Now I've got shanks stuck in the holes, just begging to eat a lot of tiny drill bits! :angry:


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## mrbreezeet1

Redlineman said:


> Man!
> 
> Good going!! Sure wish I had had all that great advice when I took my nameplate off. Didn't know nuthin from drive screws. Just chiseled the heads off. Now I've got shanks stuck in the holes, just begging to eat a lot of tiny drill bits! :angry:



Can't you just drive them in/through with a thin punch,& let them fall out the back, or is the headstock sealed up?


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## RandyM

mrbreezeet1 said:


> Can't you just drive them in/through with a thin punch,& let them fall out the back, or is the headstock sealed up?



Most of the time they are blind holes in the gear box casting. If they were through holes the oil would leak out. Or the casting is just too thick to be a through hole.

- - - Updated - - -



Redlineman said:


> Man!
> 
> Good going!! Sure wish I had had all that great advice when I took my nameplate off. Didn't know nuthin from drive screws. Just chiseled the heads off. Now I've got shanks stuck in the holes, just begging to eat a lot of tiny drill bits! :angry:



I think at this point I would just drive the shanks down below the surface and body fill the holes. Then, reposition the nameplate and drill a new set of mounting holes. Just a suggestion.


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## Redlineman

RandyM said:


> I think at this point I would just drive the shanks down below the surface and body fill the holes. Then, reposition the nameplate and drill a new set of mounting holes. Just a suggestion.


And not a bad one!

Sure wish I'd known about drive screws. I hate bodging stuff. :angry:


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## mrbreezeet1

RandyM said:


> Most of the time they are blind holes in the gear box casting. If they were through holes the oil would leak out. Or the casting is just too thick to be a through hole.
> 
> - - - Updidn't know they were blind holes.dated - - -
> 
> 
> 
> I think at this point I would just drive the shanks down below the surface and body fill the holes. Then, reposition the nameplate and drill a new set of mounting holes. Just a suggestion.


that is you best bet Good Idea. (edit; I would use a small bit of JB weld) build a little high, and level with a small sanding block.


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## RandyM

Thanks Gentlemen,

One more thing, I have used JB Weld in place of bodyfiller. I find it to ge a good substitute. It finishes very nicely.


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## mrbreezeet1

RandyM said:


> Thanks Gentlemen,
> 
> One more thing, I have used JB Weld in place of bodyfiller. I find it to ge a good substitute. It finishes very nicely.



Sorry Randy, had not read your post before editing mine.


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## RandyM

mrbreezeet1 said:


> Sorry Randy, had not read your post before editing mine.



Hey, we are on the same page. :thumbsup: I guess great minds really do think alike. Not sure if you missed my post or I just missed yours. Keep up the good work.


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## TomKro

I'm starting to think that JB Weld is more useful than duct tape!  I've used it to re-attach knurled steel pins in plastic handles, but I had no idea that it sanded OK.  

I can't recall who made the suggestion, but soaking things in Pine Sol also works well.  It sure saves time cleaning things up, and doesn't really smell too bad.  Only down side is a thin black film, if you forget where you put your parts.  

TomKro


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## TomKro

Bushing guidance? 

  One of my countershaft bushings looks like it was run dry and cooked the bushing and the end of the shaft.  I have a new shaft and a few new bronze sleeve bushings.    
  The existing bushings have an oil slot cut into the bottom, tapered a bit to stop the oil from running out.  Not quite sure if this was original setup.  




  Is it OK to just file a slot in the new bushings, or does it have to be something fancier? 
  The manual indicated "oilless bearing", but I'm wondering if I should get some Oilite bushings and not bother to cut the slots? 
Any thoughts would be appreciated.


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## TomKro

Still making slow progress, but I finally have the countershaft bushings fit to the shaft.

It took a hydraulic press to get the bushings into the holders, and imagine my surprise when the shaft would no longer fit through the bushings.  

I purchased an adjustable reamer, but that didn’t work out well.  The slightest change in reamer OD caused the reamer to lock up and gouge the ID of the bushings.   I’m still not sure if the bushings were too hard, the reamer too “inexpensive”, or just plain old operator error.    I ended up wrapping fine sanding cloth around a ½ inch drill bit, and very slowly opened up the ID.    I let the bushing holder spin slowly in one hand, while the other held the button on a battery operated hand drill.   Rocking the bushing holder back and forth along the bit, and stopping to periodically clean the cloth actually worked pretty well.    A little crude, but it's done.     

I included a picture of the setup.  If you’re one of those guys feeling sad that all you have is some itty bitty lathe, just remember that a 7 x 12 beats an old hand drill any day of the week.  




As to other things...
  Still painting parts.  I tried rattle can Rustoleum self-etching primer for some of the small parts, and that appears to lay nice onto to the cast metal.   

  Having fits trying to get the pin out of the gear cover hinge. I’ve already been banging on that casting a lot harder that I should.  Not sure what to try next.  

  Also been cutting some steel to “jack up” the bed a few inches, using 2 x 4 steel tube and angle iron between the cast legs and the feet of the bed.   I’m thinking of using small pans under each bed foot, and a removable pan between the feet (sitting on the horizontal angle Iron).   Still some holes to drill before I can see if it works out.    

TomKro


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## Redlineman

Hey;

Adjustable reamers are for hogging, mostly. No the bronze is not too hard. Yes cheap tools can be trying. I broke a blade on mine the first time I turned it. Yes they can be finicky to adjust. You need patience and a light touch! Finish off with a flex hone and you have it done quickly. THAT would have been the tool for you.


Yes, the oil slots in the bushings are useful. I just used a die grinder to make them in mine recently. Yes bushings get tight when pressed into a smaller space. You can either try to compensate when you machine it, or fit it afterwards. The way calculations usually go for me, I'd chose the latter.

Not sure which pin you refer to. LA-230 on the change gear guard? You better be careful there. I can see snapping an ear of that cover real easy. Soak and soak with penetrant. Try to determine where it is stuck. Heat. Even a very small hole drilled in the casting to allow penetrant into the inside. Anything but breaking something. Post a pic.

Raising the bed is something I've been thinking about as I near reassembly. I'm 6'5"!


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## stevecmo

Tom,

Good to see you're making some progress.  :thumbsup:

If I remember correctly that pin is knurled at the top end.  It should drive out from the bottom if it was installed correctly the last time it was out.

Hope that helps and keep after it.

Steve


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## TomKro

Redlineman:

Bushing Issues:  I had no idea that adjustable reamers were intended for deeper cuts.  The blades on my reamer appeared to roll over a bit and cut deeper than I preferred, so I gave up on that route.  The flex hone looks like the perfect tool.  I didn’t realize they came in such small sizes (3/4 OD).   My flex hone was my pinky and extra fine sandpaper.   Regarding the slots – I guess I have to push those bushings back out to get the slots cut deeper from the inside where the oil feeds from.   As to the bushing ID – I really should have known it would happen – it took a hydraulic press to slide them in.    

Bed Height:  I’m only 6’ even now – been shrinking a little.  My neck is shot and I don’t want to be leaning over too much.   I should gain about 3 -1/2 inches with the new rubber feet, the 3/16 thick angle, and the 4 x 2 tube lying flat under the feet of the bed.    I picked up two heavier ¼ sheet aluminum pans to sit between the tube and the bed feet.   Still not sure how it will work out. 

Stevecmo/Redlineman: Here’s the pin.  




It appears the bottom of the pin (the end without the knurl) has been hammered over a little – maybe from the last time it was put together.    I still need to wrap a rag around it to soak it, and possibly file the wide bottom off the pin (?).    A few heat/cool cycles should help, and maybe try the drilling trick if all else fails.     I just don’t want to crack that door casting. 

Many thanks for all the suggestions.
TomKro


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## Redlineman

Hey;

Adjustable reamers are not an exact science, and work much better on a longer bore, like a tube, I think. Live and learn... just like pressed bearing clearances!  I'd not get too worried about the oil slotting. Half the thickness of the bushing or less is fine, I'd wager. As long as there is a place for oil to pool, it is good.

Keep in mind that the pin is the expendable part, if you haven't already. If you have to drill it out, so be it. You can come up with something else pretty easily. Yes, I'd imagine the problem is that the end is peined over. It's probably very soft, like 1018. You might side file it down, or end file it off flush to the bracket. A soft drift, or a bunch of small hits with a harder one will likely work. Backing up the portion the pin is coming out of against something really solid is always more than helpful in doing these extractions, of course, if a bit cumbersome often times. And... get the paint and grunge off any portion of the pin that has to slide through hole, eh?

As long as you preserve the cast housing, who cares how you get it out, eh?


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## TomKro

Redlineman:  

  Presently, I'm just letting that little pin soak.  I agree with you completely, and I'm not concerned with saving the pin - just about anything would work as a hinge pin and likely look better without the exposed knurled edge.  Mostly, it's just an issue of being cumbersome to hold and work on.  There is a little gap between the hinge and the door, so I think I can even get the end of a hacksaw blade in there, if needed.  

  As to the bushings, originally I wasn't too concerned about oil travel, because each holder has two bushings (7/8 inch long at each end) leaving a pretty decent oil pool between them (~1/4" wide).  Also, there sure is a lot of bearing area for a 1/2 horse motor.  I may be able to reach in there with a small rotary tool bit to avoid having to push them out again.  

I can't get to the Logan until this weekend.   Hopefully the next pic you'll see is a painted up door casting with a fancy new pin.
Thanks, 
TomKro


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## Redlineman

Hey;

I just made some new shaft bushings for my Prentice Gearhead. It had oil troughs in it before, and I redid them. All I had was a .250" carbide burr on a die grinder. A bit large, perhaps, but it's what I had. I'd have liked .125. Whatever, they are done and working.


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## TomKro

Redlineman -  You're inspiring me - I'll have to find a longer cutter for my little Dremel tool.  Glad to hear your bushing mods came out well.  

 I made some progress on the door this morning.  Last night I tried a few heat/cool cycles with more penetrating oil.  I even chilled the ends of the pin with ice after heating the cast "ears" of the door.  Unfortunately, no luck with that.  

I wanted to try to keep some pressure on the pin while applying heat. I just happen to have a short stack of 1/2 inch Belleville washers that fit over the end of the pin, so I hand drilled and tapped (1/4-20) the knurled end of the pin and used a screw and some smaller washers to crank in a little pulling tension on the pin.  Upon tightening, the pin started to move.  I had to assemble/disassemble the stack a few times - it was really in there tight - but the pin is finally out.   I'll post a pic when I get a chance. 

Take care, TomKro


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## Redlineman

Great, Tom;

Glad you got it out clean. Those little things are where the skill & creativity comes in, and you showed well! Minor victories that bring a quiet smile to your face.

Here's what I currently look at for inspiration. The bed is being cleaned of the final remnants of old paint presently;


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## TomKro

Redlineman:  

Your legs and pan really are an inspiration.  The paint came out real nice.  
I'm trying to get something assembled just so I can stop misplacing parts.  

Here's a pic of that pin removal setup.  I left the door in the pic, just to prove that I really didn't break off the ears. 
The pin appears to be a nominal 3/8 inch, but undersized a little more that a thousandth.  Looks like I'll be sanding something to replace it.  




I think tomorrow is supposed to be a decent day, so maybe I can work outside and get that door cleaned up.  

TomKro


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## TomKro

Still don't have too much put back together, but I thought I'd share some ideas on the base.  

Here's a pic of the base with some 2 x 4 rectangular tubes placed to lift it up a bit.  I thought the 2 x 3 angle iron would be good for mounting electric parts, an air line, and maybe a few drawers. 




My pan needs a lot of repairs, so I thought I'd try smaller baking sheets in lieu of the one piece pan.  The heaviest aluminum pans I could find are still a little thin, so I think they'll need something under them to stiffen them up.   




No time to play for a while, but at least some of the drive box castings are soaking in pine sol, so I guess I can say work is still progressing.  

TomKro


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## rdhem2

Gents:
Did we ever get this project filed under "FINISHED"?

I got my 820 in 1981.  It has served me well and still is very accurate and tight by doing a little maintenance and adjustment from time to time.

Chuck removal:
Kinda surprised I did not see this mentioned.  Shown to me by a REAL machinist.  First, lock the chuck by shifting into back gear.  Second, back the chuck jaws out so they are protruding about 3/4" to 1" from the outside of the chuck.  Third, place a brass or preferably rawhide hammer on a protruding jaw.  Fourth, wack the rawhide hammer smartly with a 30oz ball peen hammer.  Pops right loose.  Haven't hurt a thing in 30+ years.  As Frankie Sinatra says  "This is my way!"

Sorry to be so late.  Great thread.

As an after thought.  I have done a lot of work in reverse as conditions warranted, and have never had the chuck come loose.  I realize it is theoretically possible but the great fear does not live in my shop.  I still have that Pacific coast property in Wyoming for sale.  CHEAP!  All remarks will be forwarded to the real estate sales office.  Thank you.


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## TomKro

Sadly, not finished yet.

   I've been trying to get a little painting done here and there, but every time I paint in the basement (even just a little) I get nasty sick, even when using an exhaust fan.  Most solvents just don't agree with me.  They used to call me "the canary" at work, because if something didn't bother me, they knew it wouldn't hurt anyone else.  

  The good news is that most of the painting is done, my wife picked me up a quick change tool post for Christmas, and the Teco VFD with remote keypad just arrived yesterday.   Been trying to figure out what sort of box I want to put it in.   I still have to paint the gear cover, the drive box lid, and a few carriage parts.  

  The really good news is that I picked up a small Sheldon horizontal mill.   It's sitting in the driveway.  Hopefully in the basement soon.


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## Redlineman

Geeez;

The first thing you should pick up is a good paint respirator so you can get that thing DONE. They will do the trick for you. I know, from long experience.


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## TomKro

Redlineman:  

I really have to wait for warmer temps.  Grammy is home all day and I get complaints if I do anything but touchup painting.   

If grandma ain't happy, momma ain't happy, and you know the rest.  

Did I mention I still need to buy a decent chuck?  Someone else with a Logan appears to be buying them all up.


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## Redlineman

Ha;

I think I'm done with chucks. You can have the rest...

Still would like a medallion style Westcott. Made just up the road a piece. Maybe a Watson too. Had to send one back. Real clean, but defective.


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## jererp

Curious how your baking pan chip tray worked out.  Plaza Machinery has  several chip trays listed for $35.  Not sure what shipping would be on  that though.


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## TomKro

Jererp:  

I was away over the weekend visiting my daughter at school.   Nothing like a little 1000 mile ride.   Just managed to beat all the snow coming back from West Virginia last night.

  I actually have the original pan, but it needs some welding and filling because it has a couple drill holes and a patch of rust/pitting.   

 Here’s a pic of the replacement pans.




I used some PVC sheet and binding posts to stiffen up the aluminum pans.  I painted the aluminum, but the color of the PVC was close enough for me.   Also, I left the two “non-stick” steel pans the way they were.  Once they get scratched up, I’ll have to coat them with something.






  The black strips on the angle iron are adhesive backed magnets used to hold the steel pans in place.  The strips hold onto the pan surprisingly well, and they still pop loose pretty easily.   I guess time will tell if that works OK or not.


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## jererp

OK  I didn't understand the original concept. It actually looks like it may be a convenient way to clean chips....just remove and dump the trays.


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## mjhenks

Very Creative.  Love the ease of removal for cleaning.


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## shnotes

Just an addition. I used opposing strap wrenches to get my chuck off. One on the chuck, one on the pulley.


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## TomKro

I think I have some seat belt webbing that would make a nice strap wrench - need to give that a try.  

I'm still scrounging up electric parts for controls.  Went to the local big box store and they had none of the smaller size 4 wire SO cord.  I need to stop at a real electric supply house, or just do the mail order thing.   Sometimes one shipping charge works out better than 3 or 4 trips to all the local suppliers.


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## TomKro

Connected the camera to the computer last night, so here's an update on the world's slowest lathe rehab.  

Tailstock was badly worn, but two separate e-bay purchases has it working nicely.  I replaced the broken hand wheel, and found a used barrel with good threads at a good price.  The tailstock will require shimming to height, but it's nice and tight now.  

I also found a really nice 4 jaw chuck from a fellow up in Jersey.



I had to jack up the pedestal base, and thought I'd use something nicer than a paver block and a chunk of wood.  Just happened to have a small plastic tub that matched the base OD perfectly.  I had a bunch of old mortar mix, so....




The motor and VFD have been bench tested, and the 3/4 HP motor squeezed into it's new home.  It's a 3 phase D56 frame.  The motor J box interfered with the adjustment hardware, so it had to be padded up a bit.   




I'm still working the electric box.  I decided to make it up out of small hot rolled shapes on hand.  Not sure if I just wanted the cutting, fitting and welding practice, or if I'm just too darn cheep.  Trying to keep the enclosure small, but the layout is turning into somewhat of a Rubic's Cube.   Still some welding to finish up the frame.  I hope it works out to be sort of a clamshell design, with the face of the VFD exposed when the door is opened (the vertical frame in the pic will be the back of the box).  I did buy the remote keypad with the VFD, so maybe I'm just getting silly.  Hopefully it works out and doesn't end up in the scrap bin.  




Another year or two and this thing will be done!


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## Redlineman

TomKro said:


> ... so here's an update on the world's slowest lathe rehab.


I'd say we're neck and neck!


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## Mister Ed

Redlineman said:


> I'd say we're neck and neck!



LOL ... if I ever start a thread about rebuilding my lathe, I sure hope one of you two jump in and stop me!! I know mine would be a multi year project as well.


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## TomKro

Progress update.

I really wanted to get some more painting done, but the weather wasn't cooperating.  
Since I was mixing and matching donor carriage parts I thought it best to make sure everything works OK before stripping the paint.
The cross feed screw worked out real nice.  Only about 3 or 4 thousands of total play.  Compound is a little looser, maybe 6 or 7 on the dial.  Right now it's still ugly, but all is snug and smooth.  




The 3" height boost (the tubing and rubber feet) appears to be just about right, so I'm a happy camper.

Just have to find some time to get back to that electric box...


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## Redlineman

Ha!

Nice to see you're back to plugging away. Maybe philanthropy agrees with you!!! :LOL:

Is your half nut handle mounted that way? I believe they are supposed to be at the top to gain a little help from gravity. I had to go and look, to be honest, as I have recently had the same question on mine. Factory photos show it at the top.


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## TomKro

Thanks for the info.  That sure makes sense.  I wish I would have thought to check a picture yesterday.  

I was having all kinds of trouble with that handle and pin.  I just couldn't get it to line up.  Finally realized I had to remove the half nut frame from the apron, in order to push in a little bit on the cam plate/shaft.   Extra "practice" should help it go faster next time.


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## Redlineman

:lmao:

There are so many things I have gotten "extra practice" on. The apron is one just completed, and now the saddle is taking it's place! 

:headscratch:

Putting a machine like this back together is just a series of re-learning experiences.


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## TomKro

Still moving slowly along...
During the last big snowstorm I noticed that my smooth running compound was actually sitting on the wrong size base.  The base from the donor carriage appeared to have the dovetail cut about an 1/8 inch wider than the base from the model 200.
It wasn't really rusty, but other folks had good luck with electrolysis for paint removal, so I decided to use up the last of my scrap metal and give it a try.

Here's the setup:



I started out with way too much washing soda, and almost burned up my power supply.  After some serious dilution, it was running about 6-8 amps pretty steady, looking like it was almost boiling.  About 4 hours later, the current dropped off to only an amp or so and I pulled it out.

Here's the result:


The tank did pretty decent for paint removal.  I still have to hit it with a wire brush and re-paint it.   
Hopefully, the warmer weather will hold out and I can clear out a spot for painting in the winter warehouse (garage).


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## MBfrontier

Hey, TomKro.

That part looks real good. I've been using a blast cabinet to remove paint and rust. However, I have to be careful to avoid hitting areas with the abrasive where I don't want metal removed. This looks like a good alternative. I will say that the blast cabinet is faster though.


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## TomKro

I'd love to have a blast cabinet, they're a great time saver.  Nice finish too.  Back when I worked in an industrial area, I think the grit blast machines did more home jobs than paying work. 
I have a good size compressor in the garage, but the tank still needs a pressure test and a new check valve.  Then a 240V line...  Might be a while.


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## Redlineman

I actually find my blast cabinet too slow. I predominantly used chemical stripper, and then a 4 inch angle grinder with a twisted wire flat brush.  i switch to a cup or flare brush for the tate spot carla either on my grinder or cordless drill periodi switch to a cup or flare brush for the tate spot carla either on my grinder or cordless drill. These rip everything to bare in very short order, including your skin if you make a mistake. Makes real short work of any paint or grime that is on the surface. Leaves a nice finish on the cast, and doesn't hurt the machine surfaces at all either. Works for me.


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## Redlineman

damn talk to text!


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## TomKro

Well, it's been a while.  Work and life in general got crazy busy and I'm just glad I'm past it. 

I have the 3 phase motor and all the VFD parts, but when I found a brand new 3/4 HP single phase 120V motor for cheap, I went back to the drum switch.  Disassembling, cleaning, and re-wiring the drum switch was tedious, but it works as it should.  

It was driving me crazy that I had a cracked/repaired bracket for the drive belt engagement.  I found a good one on e-bay, and it's painted and installed with a new serpentine belt. 

Still a few bugs to work out - a little binding in the change gears, still to pad up and align the tailstock, and get a decent light and some paint for my light mount bar.  

The Logan made some chips last Saturday night, so I felt it was good enough to put the nameplate back on.   




Now that life is somewhat back to normal, it's time to get working on all the other toys.   The Rockwell bandsaw pile-o-parts needs assembly, the Sheldon horizontal mill needs belts and cross feed nut repairs, and there's a Emco Compact 10 with a milling head that needs a table to sit on.  I'll have to start a thread on the Emco- it's a nice one.

In other moments of weakness, I made a few other purchases.  There's a South Bend 13 inch lathe parked in my garage - not my best move.  Then there's the Van Norman No. 12.  The base is still on the trailer.  Both are 3 phase and I don't even have 220 single phase in the garage yet. 

The VN was close and a super good price, but quite possibly the straw that broke the camels back.  My wife is now insisting on a kitchen rehab. 

What can I say?  I really like cast iron.    

TomKro


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## Mister Ed

Good to hear from you Tom!! Glad to see your Logan is making chips.

It's been quiet around here, I think life, work and other projects have gotten in the way for a bunch of us that used to post here. In fact I was in the shop the other day turning some bearing inserts (out of babbitt) for an old farm windmill and I was looking at that 3" lathe dial that I started but never finished. As I was squinting to read the numbers on the Logan I kept asking myself why I never finished the new dial. LOL.

I just realized that you were in Aberdeen, too bad I did not realize that earlier this summer ... we were out that way for my nephew's wedding.


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## MBfrontier

Hey TomKro.

I decided to stop by and check to see if there were any new posts in the Logan forum today and was happy to see you have made some chips with your 200. Way to go!

Most of us get caught up in "life is what happens when you're busy making other plans" occasionally.

Keep us posted on how your machine tuning goes.


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## Nogoingback

Looks like you made a very nice job of bringing your lathe back to life.   I always admire people who take the 
time to paint their lathes!


----------

