# Repair/rebuild Duracraft 1600 Dp (was: Drill Press Shopping With $200)



## Anopsis (Jan 5, 2016)

I have $200 in Christmas cash to spend on a drill press. Only light hobby stuff; I have a 1983 Duracraft 1600 that the motor died on, so I need to replace it with something inexpensive. I'm currently looking at the Craftsman ZJQ4116D which is a 12" press, for $199:

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-12inch-drill-press-with-laser-and-led/p-00934985000P

I noticed I could get this 13" with a larger motor from HFT for $259.99, minus a 20% coupon, making it $207.99:

http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-16-speed-bench-drill-press-38142.html

Now, being the utter rookie I am regarding the world of drill presses, what's my better choice? Also, if my local HFT store doesn't have the CM press, it's an extra $14.95 for them to ship one in.

Suggestions, folks? I would appreciate it.


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## Uglydog (Jan 5, 2016)

Why not just replace the motor? 
Inexpensive replacements should be available.
Perhaps the save the $ for a HD DP with a magnetic starter.

Daryk
MN


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## Anopsis (Jan 5, 2016)

I considered that, but I'm unsure about the general condition of the press. I last used it 10 years ago (or so) and it's been sitting in storage. Lots of rust and missing handles here and there; I haven't checked to see if there was any runout as when I last used it I wasn't interested in machine work and only used it when I needed to make a simple hole. I guess I just assumed it wouldn't be worth putting $$ into. Is that an incorrect assumption?

Here's a bunch of pics I took last night:

http://s820.photobucket.com/user/anopsis/library/Drill Press

I cleaned the bird's nest out and I can easily rotate the belt by hand, so the motor isn't locked up. It worked the last time I used it. Anyway, I just thought I'd be better off starting over, but I'm listening.


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## joshua43214 (Jan 5, 2016)

I have owned far too many Crapsman products over the years.
Every once in a while I get seduced into buying another.
All I can say is that I have NEVER been happy with a single Craftsman tool I have ever owned. Not one. I hate each and every one of them, and I hate myself each and every time I use one.

At least Horror Fright does not pretend to be any thing other than what it is.

Does it need to be a floor model? I have a little benchtop drill press that I use in the metal shop. I have a big Jet floor model in the woodshop and I have never needed for metal working projects. I would be tempted by the little Enco one if I was shopping for one now.


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## Anopsis (Jan 5, 2016)

Everything  I was/am looking at, including my existing ancient model, are benchtops. I don't need a floor-standing model.


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## marcusp323 (Jan 5, 2016)

Are you sure the motor is bad & not just a switch? I had trouble with one of the Taiwanese ones I had. The switches aren't the greatest. Check the capacitor too.
Other than that, I'm still using one I got ages ago & it works fine. Replacement motor shouldn't be spendy either, should it need replacing.
Doubt the runout on that new Craftsman would be any better either.
Mark


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## Anopsis (Jan 5, 2016)

I'm going to start poking around tonight with my DMM and see if I can find where the current flow stops. I've been unpacking in my new workshop since we moved three months ago, so if I can find my magnetic base and dial indicator I'll try to check runout too.


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## middle.road (Jan 5, 2016)

I would tune that one up! To me it looks very decent for an import of that vintage.
Looks to be pretty stout. Idler pulley design shows some thought, as does the table.
I'd replace that switch with a double throw toggle.
I'd love to have a rack and pinion like yours on the column of my Duro and Spunger, neither
has one and it is a PITA to raise or lower the table.
The knobs and handles that are missing won't be to hard to replace.
Measure up the shaft for the Pinion and post it. I've got some misc. handles floating around here - somewhere.


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## Uglydog (Jan 5, 2016)

Completely depends on the work you do.
If you want slower speeds and all the bells/whistles you'll might need to drop more than $200.
Consider patching this one together. Even quill play/runout is in the eyes of the user what may be way to much for you is great for a general fab or garage guy/gal for $100 who occasionally wants a hole.
Add the $100 to the $150 you have left. Then you've got a happy garage guy/gal and another $50 closer to the $500+ you need for the big metal DP.
Completely depends on what your long term goals are. 

Daryl
MN


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## middle.road (Jan 5, 2016)

Ah, that reminds me. Remove that chuck and get a decent one.
Check the runout on the taper when you have it off. You may find out that it is the chuck.
On my benchtop radial Craftsman it got a whole lot better when I upgraded the chuck.


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## TOOLMASTER (Jan 5, 2016)

i bought a tiny desk top delta drill press over 25 years ago that i pretty much use at least 5 times a week that still kicks great..added a 1/2 keyless right away too.;-)..(it was 3/8)


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## Terrywerm (Jan 5, 2016)

No doubt about it, I would fix up the old one, even though it is a Chinese import just like the new ones. I have a drill press very similar to yours except that it is a floor model, and it has been a good machine. Not great, but good. A new motor would be far cheaper than a new drill press, and making the new handles to replace the missing ones would be pretty simple. Removing the rust from the column and table would require a little elbow grease, but the machine itself would probably be just fine. If the runout is excessive, new bearings are not terribly expensive, and it would be a great project. Of course there is also the self satisfaction of being able to say that you rebuilt it yourself.

Many of us hobby machinists are just as interested in bringing old machines back to life as we are in doing machine projects. For many of us, rebuilding old machines is also a way of making our hobby much more affordable. Rebuilding your old machine may very likely give you a better machine than you could purchase for the same money. $200 will very likely get you a new motor and a new, more accurate chuck if one happens to be necessary. Just a few dollars more will make your new handles and purchase some new replacement knobs. Crank handles or cranks (if missing) might be a little harder to come by, but if you keep your eyes open you might find something usable elsewhere.


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## Anopsis (Jan 5, 2016)

This is great info and suggestions, and I appreciate them all. I'll start doing a close inspection tonight and see what we have. My late father bought it new in 1983/84 and my mother gave it to me with his old tools when he passed away in 1988, so it does have a little sentimental value. But, of course, being an old/cheap tool, if it's not worth the money then I don't want to jump in. Having said that, it sounds like it might be worthwhile after all! Thanks everyone.


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## brino (Jan 5, 2016)

Yup.....like those above I'd:
1) check that old machine first, new bearings should be fairly cheap, unless the spindle is bent it should be salvageable
2) try to find a $200 treadmill on craigslist and put the motor from that onto the old drill press, now you have great speed control.
-brino


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## silence dogood (Jan 5, 2016)

The clue is that the drill press has been sitting doing nothing for 10 years.  I would check that capacitor on the motor.  Electrolytic capacitors age even when they are not used. The second thing is check the wiring, including the switches. You might have some corrosion.  Also while you are at it, check out the belts and bearings.   With a little TLC, you may have a press that would be better that anything you could buy for $200.   Besides, with the money that you save, you could buy yourself a new drill press vise.   Just saying.


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## TOOLMASTER (Jan 5, 2016)

the new smaller bench drills have very flimsy tables...they bend as you drill down with just a little force


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## T. J. (Jan 5, 2016)

I agree with everyone who has recommended repairing your current DP.  I think that's your best and cheapest option.  However, I'll give you my thoughts on your original question.  I currently own the exact Craftsman model you're looking at.  I've had it for a couple of years and it has served me well.  My only complaints about it are as follows:

Belt cover rattles.  It's annoying, so I usually keep it open.
The LED light, while bright, will not stay adjusted to shine on the work table.
Lowest speed is 350 RPM.  The specs say it has 12 speeds, but it's actually only 11 because two of the pulley steps give the same speed.
That being said, I have found no major functional issues.  It's easy to change speeds.  The  rack & pinion for table height adjustment works great - just make sure you tighten the column clamp when you get it where you want it.  The chuck is decent.  What you would get by buying the HF one are a a bigger motor and more speeds - especially on the low end.  Those are important, but only if you plan on drilling big holes (>1/2").  I can't comment on the quality of it because I haven't used it.  My opinion is that Craftsman machines are probably built to higher specs than HF.  

That's my 2 cents.  My Craftsman is currently for sale because I recently acquired a 17" Rockwell floor DP which has some interesting features we've been discussing here:

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/interesting-gear-reducer-on-drill-press.41638/

Regards,
T. J.


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## Anopsis (Jan 5, 2016)

@TJ that Rockwell with the speed reducing pulley is really interesting! I do think I'm going to try to resurrect this old DP, but thanks for your insights on the Craftsman, too.


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## marcusp323 (Jan 5, 2016)

As an aside, replacing the chuck on these Taiwanese machines usually isn't an option as most are part of the spindle. 
Mark


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## Anopsis (Jan 5, 2016)

Ok, progress has officially been made!

The motor is good! I bypassed the switches and ran power straight to the motor, and it spooled up in an instant. I'm confused about the switch, though. I did a continuity test through it and it seems to check out ok, but there was no power at the motor connections when I tested it. I DID see corrosion on one leg of the power going into the switch, but could that have been enough to completely zero out the current?

Here you can see the corrosion I speak of:




I'm a newbie to all of this, but for my basic needs the runout seems ok? This is max runout, according to my cheap-o dial indicator:




Another bit of good news, if I have been learning correctly, is this shows that it IS removable:




And finally, a bit of the bad: the threads in two of the three holes for the feed handles are pretty much eaten alive by rust. Being new to most of this, what are my options here? Can I tap them and just thread some barstock?


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## FOMOGO (Jan 5, 2016)

Anopsis said:


> And finally, a bit of the bad: the threads in two of the three holes for the feed handles are pretty much eaten alive by rust. Being new to most of this, what are my options here? Can I tap them and just thread some barstock?QUOTE]
> 
> That's one option. Do you have the handles and are the male threads good? You could drill them out and use a heli-coil or better yet  a time-sert to repair the female threads. Mike


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## Anopsis (Jan 5, 2016)

I have two of the three, and I think the threads are probably ok.  I'll clean them up tomorrow and see. 

Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk


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## David VanNorman (Jan 5, 2016)

Yes the chuck is removable . That is morris  taper most likely # 2. Put a new switch on it and you have  drill press.


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## brino (Jan 5, 2016)

Anopsis,

First, excellent pictures. I can see a lot of detail.

That amount of corrosion on the wire connection troubles me. Yup that could cause the "dead" symptom.
If I see it correctly that's one of those "strip the wire and push it in" deals that always mean a CRAPPY connection. That type of connection is also used in the otherwise high-quality power bars I pull out of the trash at work. Those connections are horrible. I abandon those connections and find screws for the sockets and rewire them with real copper wire under those screws. Problem solved!

1 thou run-out is great.
removable chuck also great.

for the threaded holes for the feed handles, those don't look too bad......a good round wire brush should clean those holes right up. There is little pressure trying to pull the handles out in normal operation.

-brino


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## silence dogood (Jan 5, 2016)

I agree with Brino on those wire connections and DV on the new switch.  I would check all connections including the plug.    Corrosion can cause a voltage drop. AC motors run hotter if there is a slight voltage drop. Not good.   In your case, the drop was so much that the motor could not run at all.   However, it sounds like so far you are doing well.


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## marcusp323 (Jan 6, 2016)

Now, what are you going to buy with all that Christmas cash????????


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## kingmt01 (Jan 6, 2016)

Those handles don't need to be tight. I'd clean the rust out, coat the threads of the handle with finger nail polish, coat the inside of the hole with JB Weld, & then screw it in. If you ever need it out the nail polish will let go of the handle leaving you threads inside.

For the chuck I can't tell where you are measuring. Don't use the outside of the chuck. Put a ground pin in it to measure. I'd mark where it is then take it out & clean both surfaces. Make sure there isn't even dust in it. It needs to be a dry fit. So don't oil it. Put it back & check again. Keep rotating it until you find the last amount of run out. That or decide it is just a drill & is used for roughing holes.


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## Anopsis (Jan 6, 2016)

brino said:


> First, excellent pictures. I can see a lot of detail.






Thanks, I try to make them useful!



marcusp323 said:


> Now, what are you going to buy with all that Christmas cash????????



Probably spend it on refurb and refinish. I need belts, switches, handles, cranks... maybe I'll even do a complete disassembly/sandblast and repaint just to finish it all off!




kingmt01 said:


> For the chuck I can't tell where you are measuring. Don't use the outside of the chuck. Put a ground pin in it to measure.



It was a quick measurement from the arbor above the chuck, but I will get a ground pin and check it. Or maybe just get a new arbor and chuck anyway.


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## kingmt01 (Jan 6, 2016)

You can't test from the arbor like that with any accuracy. There will probably be those that disagree but I have found that when testing on a angle that the indicator drifts & springs back. That isn't where the final word is anyhow. 

Good luck with your project. I wouldn't worry about replacing anything unless it is your switch right now.


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## modela (Jan 6, 2016)

terrywerm said:


> No doubt about it, I would fix up the old one, even though it is a Chinese import just like the new ones. I have a drill press very similar to yours except that it is a floor model, and it has been a good machine. Not great, but good. A new motor would be far cheaper than a new drill press, and making the new handles to replace the missing ones would be pretty simple. Removing the rust from the column and table would require a little elbow grease, but the machine itself would probably be just fine. If the runout is excessive, new bearings are not terribly expensive, and it would be a great project. Of course there is also the self satisfaction of being able to say that you rebuilt it yourself.
> 
> Many of us hobby machinists are just as interested in bringing old machines back to life as we are in doing machine projects. For many of us, rebuilding old machines is also a way of making our hobby much more affordable. Rebuilding your old machine may very likely give you a better machine than you could purchase for the same money. $200 will very likely get you a new motor and a new, more accurate chuck if one happens to be necessary. Just a few dollars more will make your new handles and purchase some new replacement knobs. Crank handles or cranks (if missing) might be a little harder to come by, but if you keep your eyes open you might find something usable elsewhere.



I agree about bringing old machines back to life to a degree.  After bringing back insulation blowers, a Scotchman ironworker, several drill presses, a Bridgeport mill, incredible amounts of pumps, a ground-up- restoration of a Model A Ford, a radial arm drill press, I am more appreciative of getting something with new technological benefits.  If the parts are available, like the Scotchman ironworker, the tool is not worn out, and the techology is appropriate to your use, that is one thing.  If you love to do it, that is another thing.  If you like to research things that helps.  






The above example is a Scotchman I rebuilt.  The factors in my favor was that I had good parts backup available  down to paint and decals.  On the negative side, the unit was purchased from a small trailer manufacturer that had thoroughly abused it.  Just cleaning it up turned out to be a nightmare.  Safety devices had been taken off or bypassed, parts had been welded on.  The saving factor was it was built hellishly tough and the hydraulics had really stood up over time.

Would I do it again?  Probably not.  I don't restore tools much anymore.  The prime reason is I would rather be working with new metal and wood.  I value my time more now.  I have paid the price but I do appreciate my old tools.


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## modela (Jan 6, 2016)

Anopsis said:


> Ok, progress has officially been made!
> 
> The motor is good! I bypassed the switches and ran power straight to the motor, and it spooled up in an instant. I'm confused about the switch, though. I did a continuity test through it and it seems to check out ok, but there was no power at the motor connections when I tested it. I DID see corrosion on one leg of the power going into the switch, but could that have been enough to completely zero out the current?
> 
> ...



Try Grizzly for parts.  I have found parts for several tools this way.


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## Silverbullet (Jan 6, 2016)

Yupp fix it , it's better then the imports now , you will not find a cheap import table top model with a morse taper in the spindle. The broken piece in the handle should come out easily drill close to center as you can and ezyout the rod. make the handle , plastic ball knobs are cheap on eBay lots of china stuff there. and I would rotate the head and table over the base . the rust should polish off easy to . Put a new switch on it and you should be good to go. a chuck can be got on eBay also buy a used Jacobs 1/2" or 5/8" and if you want to reduse the speed that can be done to, and it shouldn't cost the $200 you have to use.


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## Terrywerm (Jan 6, 2016)

Thanks for the update, Anopsis. It is good to hear that the motor is not toast. That's what is neat about working on some of the older stuff: Many times just a little effort and elbow grease goes a long way.


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## middle.road (Jan 8, 2016)

Wiring might be for shimel, but the fact that there is a knockout slot would thrill me.
That is a very good feature. (IMO)


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## The Liberal Arts Garage (Jan 18, 2016)

terrywerm said:


> Thanks for the update, Anopsis. It is good to hear that the motor is not toast. That's what is neat about working on some of the older stuff: Many times just a little effort and elbow grease goes a long way.


.          Come on, twenty minutes to check to check the
important precise ? parts and the rusty expensive parts ; is this not what we are
about ? .......BLJHB"


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