# New Hobbyist with some TLC-required Machines



## Ceej0103 (Mar 25, 2020)

Hello everyone,

After watching This Old Tony and Abom79 for about 200 hours on YouTube, I decided it was a hobby I would enjoy.  So I jumped in head first. My current lathe and mill include an unknown make 9x20 lathe (only identifying marking says CF-918) and what I think is referred to as a mill/drill.  It's a benchtop unit. Markings indicate Motor-Car Gear Factory ZX-28.  

I've had a lot of fun with these and have learned a ton.  But I realized quickly that I wanted to upgrade to bigger machines when the opportunity presented itself.  So I recently purchased two machines at auction.  I pick them up tomorrow, but wanted to get a head-start on trying to identify the potential model of the Bridgeport machine so that I can go procure a manual.  For the lathe, it looks like a user here named Randyjaco purchased the same unit a while back and was able to find a manual.  At least that's what I've gathered through reading the threads he posted.  I sent him a PM asking if he might have a copy and await his response.  If anyone has a copy of the manual for the lathe, that would be helpful also.  I believe it to be a JET 1340T.

If you have any words of advice as I begin the teardown on these machines to bring them to their former glory, I would certainly appreciate that.  I'm somewhat familiar with where to look for the wear in a lathe and where the ghosts might be when chasing down run-out (alignment, leveling, etc).  I'm clueless on a Bridgeport machine.  Any suggestions or a point in the direction of where some really solid advice on getting started with assessing a Bridgeport machine would be very helpful.  

Here's all the pictures I have of these units. 

Thanks,
Ceej


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## ttabbal (Mar 25, 2020)

https://www.machinerypartsdepot.com/

Great place to start for Bridgeport stuff. They have a great selection of parts and books to get you going. Looking at the photos, I'm guessing you're in for a full teardown. There's nothing wrong with that, I had a good time doing mine. I ended up soaking parts in purple power cleaner, then rinse and switch to evaporust. After rinsing, get oil on them to prevent rusting. Take it slow, and keep track of the little parts so you can get it back together and replace anything worn or too corroded.


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## DavidR8 (Mar 25, 2020)

Wow, great investment!
Have a look here for a potential Jet manual.





						JET Tools | Manuals
					

Gain online access to JET Manuals available for PDF download




					www.jettools.com
				




I'm willing to bet that a manual for an import 1340 lathe of the same vintage is going to be 90% accurate as it looks like the Enco's had a very similar model.


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## Ceej0103 (Mar 25, 2020)

ttabbal said:


> Great place to start for Bridgeport stuff. They have a great selection of parts and books to get you going. Looking at the photos, I'm guessing you're in for a full teardown. There's nothing wrong with that, I had a good time doing mine. I ended up soaking parts in purple power cleaner, then rinse and switch to evaporust. After rinsing, get oil on them to prevent rusting. Take it slow, and keep track of the little parts so you can get it back together and replace anything worn or too corroded.


 
Thanks!  As fate would have it, I have a 5-gallon bucket of purple power and evaporust in the garage.  Love the stuff.  I'm planning to use some of those concrete mixing tubs you can get at Home Depot to soak what needs to be soaked.  Going to need a lot more Evaporust I think.


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## Ceej0103 (Mar 25, 2020)

DavidR8 said:


> Wow, great investment!
> Have a look here for a potential Jet manual.
> 
> 
> ...



Will do, thanks!


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## brino (Mar 25, 2020)

@Ceej0103 

You're fairly new to the site.....so......... Welcome to the group!

-brino


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## eugene13 (Mar 25, 2020)

Welcome, it looks like you have a lot of work ahead of you, good luck.


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## hwelecrepair (Mar 25, 2020)

Definitely looks like the BP needs alot of love.  Does the Acu-Rite II work?  The Align? 

Jon


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## Chipper5783 (Mar 25, 2020)

Very nice looking machines you have there.  They are nasty enough looking to put them in a typical hobbyist price range. Basically what you picked up is exactly what I look for in a machine - mechanically complete, but ugly enough to scare the competition away (even better if they can't be run - improves the price further, then one can't lose very much).

The "rust buckets" I have worked on actually cleaned up quite nicely.  I have never had to do a complete tear down, just cleaning and servicing.  I suggest that you do not pull the machines all apart.  Just clean and service the machines, do minor disassembly to address obvious issues and inspections - power the machines and get them running.  Actually use the machine for a while (i.e. a month) and figure out if there are other issues.  If there are problems you can't see (or want prettier paint), then you will know what you are getting into as you start the tear down.

Let us know how you make out.


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## Janderso (Mar 25, 2020)

Once you get them cleaned up and running you will learn a ton.
Be safe while you are exploring the hobby.
Welcome aboard, you're on your way man.


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## Suzuki4evr (Mar 25, 2020)

Welcome. Nice machines you have, just a pitty they were so neglected and left to get to that state. But it can be salvaged.


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## Technical Ted (Mar 25, 2020)

I strongly recommend you get this book:





__





						A Guide to Renovating the Bridgeport "2J" Variable Speed Milling Machine: ILION Industrial Services LLC: 9781482367911: Amazon.com: Books
					

A Guide to Renovating the Bridgeport 2J Variable Speed Milling Machine [ILION Industrial Services LLC] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. A Guide to Renovating the Bridgeport 2J Variable Speed Milling Machine



					www.amazon.com
				




Also, see these videos: 









						H&W Machine Repair and Rebuilding
					

Since 1982 H&W Machine Repair & Rebuilding has been providing machinery sales, repairs, rebuilds and parts for the metalworking industry. On this page you wi...




					www.youtube.com
				




Have fun!
Ted


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## Ceej0103 (Mar 25, 2020)

Wow, thanks for the warm welcome everyone and many thanks for the words of advice.  I'll take it slow and feel my way through the machines before I end up with a million parts laying around.


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## Ceej0103 (Mar 25, 2020)

hwelecrepair said:


> Definitely looks like the BP needs alot of love.  Does the Acu-Rite II work?  The Align?
> 
> Jon


 
Jon, 

Not sure to be honest; I get my first look at the machines in person tomorrow.  I hope they work, but somehow I walked away with both machines for $236 after the buyers premiums.  Basically $100 per machine + 18%.  Of course I'm paying some decent rigging fees to get them ready to travel, but was willing to take the risk on some stuff being DOA for $100 a pop.


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## Ceej0103 (Mar 25, 2020)

Technical Ted said:


> Also, see these videos:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Sweet baby jesus, JACKPOT!


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## ttabbal (Mar 26, 2020)

For that price, I believe you have earned the coveted "YOU SUCK" award for getting a deal.


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## NortonDommi (Mar 26, 2020)

What      a      Score!   They may look crappy but I'll bet a lot of that is superficial.  I'd be doing a scrub down with Kerosene and some PolyPads. 
  If the DRO on the mill works take it off and fit it on the lathe and then have a look at https://www.dropros.com/ for a 3-axis one for the mill.


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## Mike_Mac (Mar 26, 2020)

This is a link to a Bridgeport manual that is free.



			http://www.bluechipmachineshop.com/books/BP_Mill_Series1_Manual.pdf
		


Looks like an excellent buy at the price you paid.


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## hwelecrepair (Mar 26, 2020)

Ceej0103 said:


> Sweet baby jesus, JACKPOT!



Not gonna lie, the latest video uploaded has the best assistant.  And no, its not me.

Jon


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## Technical Ted (Mar 26, 2020)

hwelecrepair said:


> Not gonna lie, the latest video uploaded has the best assistant.  And no, its not me.
> 
> Jon



Is that your son?   

Ted


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## macardoso (Mar 26, 2020)

Just a tip. I did a complete tear down on a 12x36 lathe. I bought a couple hundred of those wire "toe tags" that you can write on and used them to mark each part with a part number. If you have a exploded parts diagram from a manual, this makes assembly after cleaning go from nearly-impossible to assemble to Lego kit levels of fun.

If for whatever reason you can't get a parts diagram, write on the tag all the parts that the part mated with. Much more difficult but a lot better than nothing.


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## hwelecrepair (Mar 26, 2020)

Technical Ted said:


> Is that your son?
> 
> Ted



It is.  I mean they spend the morning and afternoons here at the shop, but with all the school closings they have been here all day.  He has decided he wants to rebuild heads like Grandpa.

Jon


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## Technical Ted (Mar 26, 2020)

macardoso said:


> Just a tip. I did a complete tear down on a 12x36 lathe. I bought a couple hundred of those wire "toe tags" that you can write on and used them to mark each part with a part number. If you have a exploded parts diagram from a manual, this makes assembly after cleaning go from nearly-impossible to assemble to Lego kit levels of fun.
> 
> If for whatever reason you can't get a parts diagram, write on the tag all the parts that the part mated with. Much more difficult but a lot better than nothing.



Good idea. I find I take more and more pictures of assemblies before tearing them down... this has been a huge aid! Take them from different angles too. You can even lay a scale or something else next to assemblies to give the picture some scale. Write down some measurements prior to tear down. Like, how far a gear is mounted from the end of a shaft or housing, etc.. Lay the disassembled parts out as you take things apart, in proper order/direction, and then take pictures and/or mark them as to which one goes where, in what order, facing which way.... you get the idea.   

A few "prior actions" can make re-assembly much easier and better!

Ted


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## macardoso (Mar 26, 2020)

Technical Ted said:


> Good idea. I find I take more and more pictures of assemblies before tearing them down... this has been a huge aid! Take them from different angles too. You can even lay a scale or something else next to assemblies to give the picture some scale. Write down some measurements prior to tear down. Like, how far a gear is mounted from the end of a shaft or housing, etc.. Lay the disassembled parts out as you take things apart, in proper order/direction, and then take pictures and/or mark them as to which one goes where, in what order, facing which way.... you get the idea.
> 
> A few "prior actions" can make re-assembly much easier and better!
> 
> Ted



Oooohhh! forgot that one. I had several hundred pictures from working on the lathe. Whenever I got stuck, I looked back. Really hated myself when I forgot to get a good angle of something. Plus the pictures are good for H-M project logs


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## FOMOGO (Mar 26, 2020)

One of the more important areas of rehab is to find sober friends. Sorry, that's the other kind of rehab. Your one shot oiler system will most likely need complete disassembly, and all of the passages cleaned out, and oil lines replaced. This will entail removing the table, and saddle. At this point you might as well go through the entire machine. I found this to be a very good learning process, and you come out the other end with a well functioning machine, and a much better idea of every aspect of it's function. Welcome to the forum, and keep us posted on your progress. Cheers, Mike


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## Shootymacshootface (Mar 26, 2020)

NortonDommi said:


> What      a      Score!   They may look crappy but I'll bet a lot of that is superficial.  I'd be doing a scrub down with Kerosene and some PolyPads.
> If the DRO on the mill works take it off and fit it on the lathe and then have a look at https://www.dropros.com/ for a 3-axis one for the mill.


That is a great link!
Thank you!


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## Suzuki4evr (Mar 26, 2020)

ttabbal said:


> For that price, I believe you have earned the coveted "YOU SUCK" award for getting a deal.


Agreed


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## DavidR8 (Mar 26, 2020)

macardoso said:


> Just a tip. I did a complete tear down on a 12x36 lathe. I bought a couple hundred of those wire "toe tags" that you can write on and used them to mark each part with a part number. If you have a exploded parts diagram from a manual, this makes assembly after cleaning go from nearly-impossible to assemble to Lego kit levels of fun.
> 
> If for whatever reason you can't get a parts diagram, write on the tag all the parts that the part mated with. Much more difficult but a lot better than nothing.



I do something similar and also use clear shoebox size plastic bins and lids to hold all the small subassembly parts. I get them at the dollar store for well, a dollar 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## royesses (Mar 26, 2020)

Welcome to the forum Ceej. You already fit right in. Very nice machine you have.

Roy


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## Ceej0103 (Mar 26, 2020)

Eagle has landed.  They're grungy, but I love a good project.  Thankfully, everything is completely free except the BXA tool post. Tool holder is rusted to the dovetail, but I'll make quick work of that.  The milling machine is actually in great shape aside from the surface rust.  She needed a paint freshen-up about 10 years back and never got one.  

The worst aspect of these machines is likely the lathe base.  These were in the bowels of a food processing plant and it would appear that maybe they just sprayed down the floors to clean  up and all that moister attacked the lower aspects of the lathe base.  Big chips of rust breaking off near the leveling feet.  I'll get that cleaned up and possibly reinforce with some fresh 3/8 plate if those pockets have been compromised.  

Anyhow, I'm over the moon and ready to jump right in.  Again, thanks for all the information in my very first post.  You guys are awesome.


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## jmarkwolf (Mar 31, 2020)

There are a lot of Bridgeport rebuild videos on Youtube that would be very useful to you. Just do a search in the window.

There is also a free down-loadable book on a step-by-step rebuild of a Bridgeport on-line. Might be the same one referred to by Mike_Mac above.

And since you saved so much on the purchase you may want to consider trading in your Bridgeport head for a rebuilt one at H&W.

All we ask is that you chronicle your adventure here.


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## Ceej0103 (Mar 31, 2020)

jmarkwolf said:


> There are a lot of Bridgeport rebuild videos on Youtube that would be very useful to you. Just do a search in the window.
> 
> There is also a free down-loadable book on a step-by-step rebuild of a Bridgeport on-line. Might be the same one referred to by Mike_Mac above.
> 
> ...



Any idea what a rebuilt head runs if you're trading one in?  Youtube has been a savior for my disassembly so far.  The one video by H&W that covers the table, saddle, and knee gets you through a fair amount of the tear down.  I just pulled the head off...pretty easy.  And then I lifted away the ram and turret as one unit.  I have to somehow get the ram free from the turret.  It travels to the back to it's limit, but when going forward it binds up.  Basically in the same position it was stored in all those years. When I go all the way back I feel it hit a hard limit.  Going to do some reading to see what stops that ram from just sliding off the dovetail.  Would be nice to pull it from the back since it's free.


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## jmarkwolf (Mar 31, 2020)

Ceej0103 said:


> Any idea what a rebuilt head runs if you're trading one in?



If I remember correctly, they talk about it on their website.


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## Ceej0103 (Mar 31, 2020)

jmarkwolf said:


> If I remember correctly, they talk about it on their website.



Cool, I'll check it out.


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## hwelecrepair (Apr 2, 2020)

Ceej0103 said:


> Any idea what a rebuilt head runs if you're trading one in?



You could just send your head in, especially since your machine is apart and in pieces.  The trade-in is $2,200 plus an $1,800 core charge.  Head rebuilds for a variable speed typically are about $2k depending on what all is needed.  

When I rebuilt my WB Knight #2 I took a picture of every single screw, nut, and bolt I took off and where it went since there is almost no literature on it around.  Pictures are a lifesaver.  +1 to all the guys saying take pictures.  

Jon


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## Ceej0103 (Apr 2, 2020)

hwelecrepair said:


> You could just send your head in, especially since your machine is apart and in pieces.  The trade-in is $2,200 plus an $1,800 core charge.  Head rebuilds for a variable speed typically are about $2k depending on what all is needed.
> 
> When I rebuilt my WB Knight #2 I took a picture of every single screw, nut, and bolt I took off and where it went since there is almost no literature on it around.  Pictures are a lifesaver.  +1 to all the guys saying take pictures.
> 
> Jon



Thanks for the info, Jon!


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## hwelecrepair (Apr 2, 2020)

Anytime.  Hope your rebuild goes well!

Jon


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## Tim9 (Apr 3, 2020)

Full tear down sounds great....but I personally would take it slow. I’d start with WD-40 and Scotch-brite.  That first...and maybe single sided razor blades. The reason I say this is once you tear it down.....you have a machine that may have been fully useful but now might want minor repairs. And....it’s just a pile of parts. How does one make a bushing or nut without a working milling machine.....without a working lathe.
    See what you’ve got first. Clean them up and hook them up. Make sure the lathe has fresh gear oil....drain and refill. Oil every oiling point. Then see what you’re dealing with. My Clausing Lathe looked like crap. I bought it from a scrap collector and I haven’t even taken the gearbox cover off yet. The oil was clean in the gear box when I drained it and it operates properly. The lathe has check out with flying colors.
    After using it for a while....I did have to replace the Vari-drive bushing.....but the point I’m trying to convey to you is if you have a pile of parts of a  Bridgeport and a non-working lathe....how are you going to make a part to fix your Bridgeport. It gets expensive if you have to pay for new parts.
   I can’t tell you how many times I kissed my little South Bend or Atlas lathe because it saved the day when I was repairing another machine. I’d get the lathe working first. You can do a lot of work-arounds with a good lathe. Even milling in a pinch.


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## NortonDommi (Apr 3, 2020)

Now that *Tim9 *is a wonderful demonstration of the judicious application of TLC!
Top marks.


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## Tim9 (Apr 4, 2020)

Thanks Norton. It really looked like hell. But the scrapper kept telling me he was using it until the motor locked up. I responded that it could be the motor or the Vari-drive....and Vari-Drive repairs are a major problem..
Anyway, I offered him @ 350.00
  He said ok....comes out with Two 5-gallon buckets of boring bars, Aloris BXA tool holders, MT3 drill bits....and a tailstock.
    And he loaded it in my truck with his bobcat 15 minutes later. I ended up using mostly scotch-brite and mineral spirits. Then WD-40 and rags. 
the motor took two sealed bearings. It’s a 5903 made in 1971. I love this lathe. 
   FWIW,  when changing the Vari-drive bushing, I had to turn it down a few thousandths to fit. Thank goodness I had my South Bend 9” lathe. And that’s the point of my reply.  It’s good to have a working machine while repairs are made to other machines. Piles of parts get you nowhere.


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## NortonDommi (Apr 4, 2020)

Tim9 you just made my day with that.  The seller would have thought he did well and you got a bargain, all happy.
I really like that you have cleaned it but kept it original.  
I hear you about having at least one machine that works to make parts. I gave a 10" Atlas to a friend who is only a 1/2 hour drive away and there has been the odd occasion I've thought about it.
*Ceej0103 *I hope this shows what a good buy you made us all jealous with.


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