# Show Us Your Shop Made Tooling!



## 8ntsane

Hello everyone

I think we need a thread on our shop made tooling. This would be any tool, or fixture/ set up that you have come up with to get er done.

We all like making up tools, for our tools, so come on people,,Show them off here!
This can be a item you modded to get er done, or some thing you built from scratch. Mods that you made to you machine/ tooling to make it better.

So lets gets this started, dont be shy. This could be a good thread for newbies, and the experianced alike. I know we have many crafty devils in here, get your pics in here  tell us a bit about it. Simple , to hi tech,,its all good!


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## bedwards

*Re: Shop made tooling*

They pale in comparison to yours and I've had some of these in other threads but here goes in order: hold down clamps made from thick walled pipe, 2 tool bit height gauges, threading stop and a handy run out indicator all to fit lampost tool holders, a group of brass hammers, a tool bit angle gauge for a Williams holder and last a tool post grinder.


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## Charley Davidson

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Really like the hold downs made from the pipe, do the work well? I would think there might be some flex issues.


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## bedwards

*Re: Shop made tooling*

So far I haven't taxed them too hard. They seem to help when nothing else seems to fit. (clearance issues)


Bryan


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Bedwards
I seen seen your clamps you made out of heavy wall pipe in another post, and I picked up the pipe to build mine just yesterday.

I would like to see this thread grow, and members post pics of the tools they made, modded, or multi task. Its all good, we can all get some idea,s from a thread like this one.


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## DMS

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Here is a dividing head I made

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tB1h4wBfhusOEhnlbAtUydMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

A tangential toolholder I made for my minilathe

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RkCimIC1LCbHH-89FUe-NtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

A small sine bar made from CRS and drill rod

https://picasaweb.google.com/113058612034694188913/SineBar?authuser=0&feat=directlink


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## bedwards

*Re: Shop made tooling*

8ntsane, that must be a good sized lathe to mount your vise vertically on? Mine's only an 11" swing. I'd like to pick up a smaller 3" vise to use on mine and on my Sheldon 0. (when I get some more fun money)


Bryan


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## FarFar

*Re: Shop made tooling*

First a system for parting 125 mm steel in a 9 inch Boxford and then a tangential holder.
The tangential holder uses sticks between 4 and 5 mm square of carbide or stellite.(Tantung)


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*



bedwards said:


> 8ntsane, that must be a good sized lathe to mount your vise vertically on? Mine's only an 11" swing. I'd like to pick up a smaller 3" vise to use on mine and on my Sheldon 0. (when I get some more fun money)
> 
> 
> Bryan



Bryan
Yes, the lathe is a fair size, it swings 17 over the ways, and a bit over 10 over the saddle. Though its a bit short on centre to centre distance, only 30 inches. But at just over 4000 pds, its a ridgid machine


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*



ScrapMetal said:


> Slick setup for managing the chucks.  That would be real handy. :thumbzup:
> 
> 
> 
> Your design?  Any chance of sharing the plans for the tangential TH?  I'd love to have a 1/2" version and I really like the looks/design of yours.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Ron



Ron
The design is just what I come up with looking at many different designs on the net. I went with the 1/2 tooling because of the size of my lathe. If you seach tandental tool holder, I posted it about a yr ago. shows more pics of the build. I  used the band saw to rough it out, and if you look at the pics, the frond end was changed as it progressed.

Allso, on my tool holder, I didnt lay the tooling over like most people do. I saw no point in doing so, so I just did things my way, and it works well. I like the tool holder for working on jobs that require turning and facing operations. On initial set up, the tool dosnt need to have position alterd for turning or facing, and saves time. I perfer this tool for aluminum.

If I remember right, this tool took less than 4 hrs to make, a after noon project. If you need more pics in detail, let me know.


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## ScrapMetal

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Thanks Paul.  I'll look up the old posts and let you know if I have questions.

-Ron


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## Charley Davidson

*Re: Shop made tooling*



1200rpm said:


> i can see why you guys like big iron! i mean, what`s NOT to like about being able to mount a drill press
> to your cross slide?!!  that`s too cool!



Yeah but can you mount a .50 cal.?:thinking:


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*



Charley Davidson said:


> Yeah but can you mount a .50 cal.?:thinking:



When ya figure it out, let us know.


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*



FarFar said:


> First a system for parting 125 mm steel in a 9 inch Boxford and then a tangential holder.
> The tangential holder uses sticks between 4 and 5 mm square of carbide or stellite.(Tantung)



FarFar

Interesting tool cutter, got any more pics of the break down? Im interested to see how you have the tool bit held in there.


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## ScrapMetal

*Re: Shop made tooling*



Charley Davidson said:


> Yeah but can you mount a .50 cal.?:thinking:




No problem! :thumbzup:



The mount is actually fairly simple...




-Ron  :lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao:


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## churchjw

*Re: Shop made tooling*



ScrapMetal said:


> No problem! :thumbzup:
> 
> 
> 
> The mount is actually fairly simple...
> 
> 
> 
> -Ron  :lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao:




Oh WOW a .50   That is cool.  You have great taste in toys.

Jeff


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*



ScrapMetal said:


> No problem! :thumbzup:
> 
> 
> 
> The mount is actually fairly simple...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Ron  :lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao:



Ron
Im not a gun guy at all, but what kind of gun is that in the upper left hand corner ?  (':biggrin:')


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## ScrapMetal

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Paul, that's a Barrett M82A1 http://barrett.net/firearms/model82a1  My little .50 BMG baby.   It's great for putting holes in things.

Glad you like 'em Jeff.  

-Ron


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## lockstocknbarrel

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Ron nice design, as was asked before have you drawn up the holder. 
Here is my design after looking at your tool, but I'm worried about how much metal is in front of the leading tool edge if you get my drift.............
What did you allow,


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## hq308

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Here's a couple of tools I've made.
The first is a couple of dimple dies I made a while back, I've made a couple of bigger ones as well.





And here's a jig I made for my rotary table.


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## terry_g

*Re: Shop made tooling*

I needed a way to cut a key-way in a pulley that I had made for my mill.
I dug through my scrap pile and this what I ended up with.
I machined the body out and bored the hole slightly undersized.
Once I got it mounted on the compound I centred it as best I could then 
I mounted a boring bar in the chuck and and finished the bore to size as best I could, then 
made up the bushings and pressed them in.The rest was pretty straight forward.

Terry


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## ScrapMetal

*Re: Shop made tooling*



terry_g said:


> I needed a way to cut a key-way in a pulley that I had made for my mill.
> I dug through my scrap pile and this what I ended up with.
> I machined the body out and bored the hole slightly undersized.
> Once I got it mounted on the compound I centred it as best I could then
> I mounted a boring bar in the chuck and and finished the bore to size as best I could, then
> made up the bushings and pressed them in.The rest was pretty straight forward.
> 
> Terry



"As best you could" looks dang good to me.  Very nice.

-Ron


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## Redirish

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Sure looks professional to me!


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*



lockstocknbarrel said:


> Ron nice design, as was asked before have you drawn up the holder.
> Here is my design after looking at your tool, but I'm worried about how much metal is in front of the leading tool edge if you get my drift.............
> What did you allow,



Lockstocknbarrel

Im not sure if you question was directed at me, or Ron

The top pic you show is the one I built last yr. I didnt do any drawing of it. The design is accually Farfar( Niels) He had a pic posted some where on the internet, and I just made my own copy to fit 1/2 tooling and fit my lathe.

Now the 2 drawings you show, look like they would be very nice , and fit a QCTP as well. I also had thought the material at the front might be a issue. If you look at the pics I posted, you can see that I later had trimed the fat off the tool holder. I didnt know at the time if the tool was going to work or not. Most all of these TTH have the cutting tool also laid over to the left, and this design does not. As it went, the tool worked well, and I thought about making it fit the QCTP, but I dont thing I will. With only one bolt to remove and install on the T-nut, I figured it is a ridgid mount as is.

The pics you have shown would be a nice tool holder, and if you seen a need to trim off the extra material off the front, it certainly would be a easy task to do.


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*



hq308 said:


> Here's a couple of tools I've made.
> The first is a couple of dimple dies I made a while back, I've made a couple of bigger ones as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's a jig I made for my rotary table.



Hi David

The dimple dies I have several size as well. They do a fine job on sheet metal work. I spent most of my life in the racing industry, and used the same tools some times for decorative, and many times to add strength to other wise flimsey sheet aluminum panels. Also found them to be handy sinking panels when mounting 1/4 turn quick release fasteners.

You rotary table jig. It appears to be used for centreing, or offsetting your work.
Would you have anymore pics of this in setups? And possibly more details on its use. Im sure many of us would be interested.


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*



terry_g said:


> I needed a way to cut a key-way in a pulley that I had made for my mill.
> I dug through my scrap pile and this what I ended up with.
> I machined the body out and bored the hole slightly undersized.
> Once I got it mounted on the compound I centred it as best I could then
> I mounted a boring bar in the chuck and and finished the bore to size as best I could, then
> made up the bushings and pressed them in.The rest was pretty straight forward.
> 
> Terry



Some of the best tools have started out as scrap bin pickins 
Nice job Id say. The tool looks like a well thought out design. I have thought of building one allmost every time I need to cut a keyway. I have been cranking the carriage back and forth, and it gets tire some, in a very short while.

In your design, do you have depth stops, or do use the end of travel as the depth stop? I allso have allways wondered about the handle placement on those . If you were to do it again, would you change the handle placement, or it good where it is?


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*



DMS said:


> Here is a dividing head I made
> 
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tB1h4wBfhusOEhnlbAtUydMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
> 
> A tangential toolholder I made for my minilathe
> 
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RkCimIC1LCbHH-89FUe-NtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
> 
> A small sine bar made from CRS and drill rod
> 
> https://picasaweb.google.com/113058612034694188913/SineBar?authuser=0&feat=directlink



Matt
Great looking job on the dividing head. You wouldnt happen to have any more pics, would you? Id be interested to see more on that item.
Nice Job (':thumbzup:')


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## hq308

*Re: Shop made tooling*



8ntsane said:


> Hi David
> 
> The dimple dies I have several size as well. They do a fine job on sheet metal work. I spent most of my life in the racing industry, and used the same tools some times for decorative, and many times to add strength to other wise flimsey sheet aluminum panels. Also found them to be handy sinking panels when mounting 1/4 turn quick release fasteners.
> 
> You rotary table jig. It appears to be used for centreing, or offsetting your work.
> Would you have anymore pics of this in setups? And possibly more details on its use. Im sure many of us would be interested.



Paul the main idea with the jig was to allow me to machine a full 180° in one operation and hold the work secure. I put the markings on it to give me a starting point for centering the job.
I've only used it for one project, here's a couple of more pics. I'll take a pic of it mounted to the table without a job on it over the weekend.


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## DMS

*Re: Shop made tooling*



8ntsane said:


> Matt
> Great looking job on the dividing head. You wouldnt happen to have any more pics, would you? Id be interested to see more on that item.
> Nice Job (':thumbzup:')




Thanks for the kind words. As for more pics, there are a bunch more in the album https://picasaweb.google.com/113058612034694188913/DividingHead?authuser=0&feat=directlink


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## nicky

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Here are a few items I have made over the last few years to help with projects both machine shop and automotive.
The first is a floating die holder once featured in Home Shop Machinist. It also shows the thread dial I made for the lathe.




The next picture shows a set of tools I made for assembling a Studebaker six engine.
The 3 pieces on the left are for installing the camshaft timing gear, the slim tool in the centre for installing the wrist pin and connecting rod on the piston. I had no picture of the tool itself, just a photo in the service manual of it in a vice with pin, rod and piston mounted on it so I had to reverse engineer it from there. The set on the right are for installing the timing gear on the crankshaft. For the two timing gear installers we had drawings and specs for.





The next picture shows a set of press tools for replacing the control arm bushings on a Studebaker front suspension. For these parts the manual had good photos.




The next picture shows the dies I made for the bead roller to put the channels in the floor panels for the Studebaker I am working on.




The next picture shows the arbor I made to hold the gear cutter in my little Homier mill/drill





I guess that will do for now. Basically it boils down to if I need something and don't have one I make it with my limited bit of mainly self taught machine shop practice.
Nick


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Nicky
Nice collection for home made tooling.
I bet the bead roller came in really handy when restoring the floors on the Stude.
The floating die holder is interesting too. Do you have any more pics of that item?

Good to see the home tolling others make to get the job done. Nick, if you have more , please show us.


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## nicky

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Here is a picture of the floating die holder's main parts. The thin end is centre drilled for the tail stock centre.
I cut the "V" notch on the table saw. I cut all the outside angles etc. also on the table saw and the hole with my little Homier mill/drill.
It takes 1" adjustable dies, hence the three set screws. Comes in very handy when cutting short and small threads on a shaft/screw etc.
Nick


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Nice Job on the Die Holder Nick
The approch to solving daily problems, and made to work with your own machine.

Good job
Im sure others will copy your idea,s


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Speaking of shop made tooling
I have started on a new fly cutter this morning.
Its a 7 inch diameter disc, that will have a R-8 arbour mounted to it.
Its going to be a experimental deal. I want to try this out before I build a bigger one. The disc is aluminum 7 diaX 1 inch  thick. Im still deciding on what typ of tooling to fit it up for, round shank boring bar tooling, cabide tipped, easy to mount. Or go with HSS tooling, and involes a fair bit more work to mount. Or maybe both styles!

Pics later today


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Im hearing crickets chirping in here :thinking:
Come on guys, you must have some projects in the works, Post em up, lets have a peek :biggrin:

Even a work in progress is good:whistle:


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## Charley Davidson

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Here's a slip roller I'm working on but having all kinds of issues.  The gantry that holds the 2 bottom rollers twisted badly when welding & I thought I could make it work but no way needs to be redone. It will roll 11 gauge steel though. Gonna do some redesigning.  You can see a major differance in hight of the top roller from the twist.   It uses a floor jack for adjustment/pressure


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## Rbeckett

*Re: Shop made tooling*

What a great thread!!!!  Too many ideas in my head now.  I gotta get that dozer running to clear out my shop some so I can get back to work.  Actually I have been making some progress in the massive clean and re-organize, but not as much as I would like lately.  Keep the great pics and ideas coming guys.  It's amazing what a little ingenuity and patience will get.  Thanks Insane!!!
Bob


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## swatson144

*Re: Shop made tooling*

My work is not on par with much of ya'lls. Generally I make things I need at the moment or I know I'll want for the next project. I'm bad about getting them done and planning to go back and make them prettier but never do.



Spider to keep thin stock from whipping around and to help keep long items running true. Screws onto the exposed spindle bearing nut threads.


Quill clamp I needed to drill several pieces the same depth so I made this, also handy to set stock same depth in the chuck.


I needed a dovetail cutter and didn't feel like paying for a HSS so I made this one with an insert.


I need to tap smallish holes so I made this to keep from breaking taps while tapping with power. Simply hold the wheel to tap and let go so the tap spins with the work if it starts to go bad or you hit bottom.

Steve


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## Badams215236

*Re: Shop made tooling*

This first one is a rigid tool  post I built for the lathe at work.   I got tired of the rocker style tool post.  Every time you tried to take a heavy cut the tool
would be sucked in. ( I found out later that the post was cracked in 3 places). Also the holders that we had were angled to much for the indexable carbide
I wanted to use.




The tool sits on a piece of key stock and is adjustable for height by a set of jack screws in the bottom.  This way I could set it to the centerline of the lathe. As well as change the rake of the tool
if I wanted.  The t-nut in the compound is milled to be flush with the face of the rest, this allows me to get right up to the jaws without hitting the compound.  And just for fun, I use a nut  that was the same size as the tailstock wrench on top.  the slot on the othe side hold a cutter with a smal radius for finish cutting I put it in oppisite of the other one and switch between them by rotating the whole tool post.  With this setup I have no trouble taking .300 off the overall dia In a single pass.






Here Is the LeBlonde in action  I am turning a 2" Hub off of a gear with aprox. a 12"dia.  In this pic you can see the second cutter installed in the tool post. Its not a quick change, but it gets the job done.



This is a tap drill/tap guide block. It will do 6-32 through 1/2 -13 all in a 2"dia by 1" thick piece of round stock.  A handy little tool to be sure.




This is a fly cutter I made. It is at a 30 degree angle and is 2.500 dia.  Does a nice job.





I got bored the other night at work and decided to make a "Man's Hammer"  This little bugger is only 14" top to bottom but weighs 12 lbs.  I call it my "fine Adjustment tool"

Ben


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*



Charley Davidson said:


> Here's a slip roller I'm working on but having all kinds of issues. The gantry that holds the 2 bottom rollers twisted badly when welding & I thought I could make it work but no way needs to be redone. It will roll 11 gauge steel though. Gonna do some redesigning. You can see a major differance in hight of the top roller from the twist. It uses a floor jack for adjustment/pressure




Charley

Looks like a heavy duty roller your building. Just wondering if the rollers are solid steel, or tube? If solid, was thinking maybe straighten them out with V-blocks on a press. Possibly true them up with a skim cut on your lathe. Just thinkin out loud.
Looks like you allready have a fair bit of work on it.


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## Charley Davidson

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Bottom Rolls are from a conveyor system and are kinda light weight, top roller is some heavy wall tubing. The gantry is what got twisted when welding. I'm gonna rework it later but have other things to do higher on the priority list.

I think it will work great on 14 gauge even heavier aluminum

Had a video all uploaded on Face Book but evidently hit the wrong button at the end and lost it:banghead:


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*



Badams215236 said:


> This first one is a rigid tool post I built for the lathe at work. I got tired of the rocker style tool post. Every time you tried to take a heavy cut the tool
> would be sucked in. ( I found out later that the post was cracked in 3 places). Also the holders that we had were angled to much for the indexable carbide
> I wanted to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tool sits on a piece of key stock and is adjustable for height by a set of jack screws in the bottom. This way I could set it to the centerline of the lathe. As well as change the rake of the tool
> if I wanted. The t-nut in the compound is milled to be flush with the face of the rest, this allows me to get right up to the jaws without hitting the compound. And just for fun, I use a nut that was the same size as the tailstock wrench on top. the slot on the othe side hold a cutter with a smal radius for finish cutting I put it in oppisite of the other one and switch between them by rotating the whole tool post. With this setup I have no trouble taking .300 off the overall dia In a single pass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here Is the LeBlonde in action I am turning a 2" Hub off of a gear with aprox. a 12"dia. In this pic you can see the second cutter installed in the tool post. Its not a quick change, but it gets the job done.
> 
> 
> View attachment 38060
> 
> This is a tap drill/tap guide block. It will do 6-32 through 1/2 -13 all in a 2"dia by 1" thick piece of round stock. A handy little tool to be sure.
> 
> View attachment 38061
> 
> 
> This is a fly cutter I made. It is at a 30 degree angle and is 2.500 dia. Does a nice job.
> 
> 
> View attachment 38062
> 
> 
> I got bored the other night at work and decided to make a "Man's Hammer" This little bugger is only 14" top to bottom but weighs 12 lbs. I call it my "fine Adjustment tool"
> 
> Ben




Nice Job on the tooling Ben

I like your tool post design, looks like a very good one. If you have more pics of your tool post build, or more detailed shots, I for one would love to see them. The Tap/drill guide is allways a handy addition to anyones tooling as well. Ive allways meant to make one, but allways seem to have other things on the go.

The flycutter looks really nice, so nice, it allmost looks to nice to use,lol. Great job on that too. Now the man size hammer @ 12 lbs , I love it. When you need a BFH, I bet that sucker does the job.

Good work, if you have more pics of your builds, post em up.


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*



swatson144 said:


> My work is not on par with much of ya'lls. Generally I make things I need at the moment or I know I'll want for the next project. I'm bad about getting them done and planning to go back and make them prettier but never do.
> 
> View attachment 37901
> 
> Spider to keep thin stock from whipping around and to help keep long items running true. Screws onto the exposed spindle bearing nut threads.
> View attachment 37902
> 
> Quill clamp I needed to drill several pieces the same depth so I made this, also handy to set stock same depth in the chuck.
> View attachment 37903
> 
> I needed a dovetail cutter and didn't feel like paying for a HSS so I made this one with an insert.
> View attachment 37904
> 
> I need to tap smallish holes so I made this to keep from breaking taps while tapping with power. Simply hold the wheel to tap and let go so the tap spins with the work if it starts to go bad or you hit bottom.
> 
> Steve



Steve
Seems all of your tools you have in this post I couls use. The spider is somthing I must get around too, and soon! I like the tap holder too, thats a great idea, that I will shamelessly steal from ya.

Good job
You have added to my to-do list.


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## Badams215236

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Here are 2 shots of the tool holder deconstructed. In the first pic you can se the jack screws. You only ever get 2 of them to touch at the sam time but But 4 in so both ends could be used. currently only the 1st and 3rd ( left to right) contact the key stock.







This is the t-nut and "spindle" for lack of a better word. you can see where it was milled of to be able to run flush with the edge of the compund.




I made a bunch of these one night. It is just a simple stop that clamps to the jaw of the mill vice. very basic but super handy for repeatability.







This is a v-block that I patterened after one that my co-worker had done. I like that it has mutiple sizes all in the same block. I Lucked out in that the guy I work with has been machining for 30+ years
so i am always learning new thing from him.




This one has been a huge time saver. I am an industrial mechanic and there are 12 other guys that use the equipment (some of them shouldn't be) and they are always knocking the head out on the mill.
I trammed it twice in the traditional manner ( with a dial indicator and a rig that mounted to the spindle) sweeping it back and forth over and over again. not a lot of fun. so I made this Tramming tool, it fits the bed of the 8" vise that is on the mill. Takes all the cursing and swearing out of tramming the head.

Thats all I've got for now

Ben


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## PurpLev

*Re: Shop made tooling*

here are a few I posted here in my albums:

a quick-rough-dialing-in attachment to the QCTP:

Some end-mill holders and blanks (planning to make a fly cutter with one of them):


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Ben
Thanks for the extra pics. The V block looks to be a very usefull piece,I just might have to copy that item too.

Sharon
Nice work on your tooling as well. Those end mill holders put the ones I made to shame, not near as nice as yours.:biggrin:


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## Charley Davidson

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Sharon, on your endmill holders, can they be used in a R8 collet or is that too much mass?


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## pineyfolks

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Here's a simple one for ya' I made a depth gauge for my shop press using a pointer and a 6" scale mounted with magnets. Just gives me some idea of where I'm at and helps when using my brake to make more than one part at the same angle.


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## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*



pineyfolks said:


> Here's a simple one for ya' I made a depth gauge for my shop press using a pointer and a 6" scale mounted with magnets. Just gives me some idea of where I'm at and helps when using my brake to make more than one part at the same angle.




Nice Looking press you have.
That is a great idea with the scale with a pointer. That would definatly be handy when using a press brake. That press, is it a complete fabbed up job, or available some where? I seen many presses, but that one looks sweet.
Got anymore pics of that? And thanks for the scale and pointer tip


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## Badams215236

*Re: Shop made tooling*



8ntsane said:


> Nice Looking press you have.
> That is a great idea with the scale with a pointer. That would definatly be handy when using a press brake. That press, is it a complete fabbed up job, or available some where? I seen many presses, but that one looks sweet.
> Got anymore pics of that? And thanks for the scale and pointer tip




That press is impressive.  I would love to see more pics of.  I have to build one for the new shop and havent quite setteled on a design yet.  

By the way Paul,  Did you ever finish that big fly cutter mentioned earlier?  If so a few pics would be great.  It sounds like a monster.

Ben


----------



## Bob a Job

*Re: Shop made tooling*

A tapper turning attachment i made .

BJ


----------



## Metalmann

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Excellent work on that taper attachment, Bob.


----------



## pineyfolks

*Re: Shop made tooling*



8ntsane said:


> Nice Looking press you have.
> That is a great idea with the scale with a pointer. That would definatly be handy when using a press brake. That press, is it a complete fabbed up job, or available some where? I seen many presses, but that one looks sweet.
> Got anymore pics of that? And thanks for the scale and pointer tip



I built it. Heres another shot , I just added the winch to lift the table. You can see the brake on the floor. I'll have to take some pics of it


----------



## jumps4

*Re: Shop made tooling*

thats really nice bj
steve


----------



## 12bolts

*Re: Shop made tooling*



Bob a Job said:


> A tapper turning attachment i made .
> 
> BJ



Thats a lovely bit of kit Bob.
Did you make the dovetail from scratch? I would love to see some more detail of that, and how you went about it.

Cheers Phil


----------



## Bob a Job

*Re: Shop made tooling*

thanks for the comments lads

Hi Phil ,,,,,,,,,, yes all made from scratch , i have a few photos of the build ,but not all , sadly lost them ,moral back up your photos LOL. Any way here is what i have .

The bracket ,,,,welded fab

cutting the Deg graduations

The slider

after case hardening .

Link


Hope that was not too many photos . All i have of build


BJ


----------



## xalky

*Re: Shop made tooling*

I gotta get me some dovetail cutters.

The shop press looks awesome. The roller bearings on the top slide really caught my eye. I might just have to do that to my cheapie HF press.)


----------



## bvd1940

*Re: Shop made tooling*



Bob a Job said:


> A tapper turning attachment i made .
> 
> 
> BJ



One hell of a nice job, I am jealous.


----------



## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Bob a Job

That is some very impressive work you have done on your taper attachment. Top notch looking job. I see your new here, Wellcome to the board, and thanks for posting your pics of your work. Nice job  :biggrin::thumbzup:


----------



## 12bolts

*Re: Shop made tooling*



Bob a Job said:


> Hope that was not too many photos



Ohhh so a comedian too!

Nah, seriously Bob, thats great work.
What coolant mix were you running with your dovetail cutter?

Cheers Phil


----------



## Bob a Job

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Thanks for the compliments lads .

Hi Phil ,,,,,,,, To tell the truth i have no idea what make of coolant it is ,,, being a tight arse i had scrounged a gallon of the neat coolant from a local engineering company. next time i will ask . It is  water soluble  and a strange blue colour . 




BJ


----------



## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Etard

That would be a nice project build. For his intended use, it would be very handy. Ive allways wanted some type of easy access to rounding over parts, Though I,d need a bigger one. That video gives me some good idea,s.
Thanks for posting that


----------



## rickard

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Etard, That is so Kool I'm going to Blatantly Rip that guy off and copy that rotary table  in 1/2 scale for my Unimat DB


----------



## PurpLev

*Re: Shop made tooling*



Charley Davidson said:


> Sharon, on your endmill holders, can they be used in a R8 collet or is that too much mass?



Charley - sorry I missed your Q a while back....

these endmill holders all use a 3/4" shank which fits and being held inside an R8 3/4" collet, so no need to completely remove the drawbar and replace collet/holder -just slight release, pull holder out, push new one in, and tighten. I saw someone using a hydrolic drawbar release which made this even sweeter.... but I'm not 'there' yet.

Edit:
added some pics showing how it mounts flush:


----------



## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Being Ive been slacking off posting around here, and have a fly cutter in progress, I will try to post up a pic or two. Its a 1 inch thick X 8 inch OD, mounted to a R-8 boring head arbour. I still have the machining to take the tooling, but as said, its in progress.


----------



## 8ntsane

Shawn
Nice Job
30 min of your time, but your going to have yrs of use, thats the best thing about making your own tools.


----------



## flutedchamber

*Re: Shop made tooling*



Bob a Job said:


> A tapper turning attachment i made .
> 
> BJ



Very nice work.  I've seen taper attachments from the factory that are less sturdy and professional looking.  A few questions if you will.

How to you tighten the bolts that attach the taper attachment to the cross slide?  I can't tell by the photo.  It appears to be a T nut and an socket head capscrew?

How long of a taper can you cut with that?

Thanks.


----------



## wawoodman

*Re: Shop made tooling*



PurpLev said:


> here are a few I posted here in my albums:
> 
> a quick-rough-dialing-in attachment to the QCTP:



Great work. Could somebody please explain how this is used?

There was another thread with the bearing on the end of a shaft, and how that could be used as an edge finder. I've already got the bearings to make one. But I'm intrigued by the dialing-in aspect on the lathe. Do you use it to bump an off center spinning shaft until it stops wobbling, and then bring up the tail stock? So I guess the chuck should be snug, but not tight? Low speed, so it doesn't go whipping across the shop? (I could probably experiment, but this has the potential of hurting me, so I'd rather ask!)


----------



## PurpLev

*Re: Shop made tooling*



wawoodman said:


> Great work. Could somebody please explain how this is used?
> 
> There was another thread with the bearing on the end of a shaft, and how that could be used as an edge finder. I've already got the bearings to make one. But I'm intrigued by the dialing-in aspect on the lathe. Do you use it to bump an off center spinning shaft until it stops wobbling, and then bring up the tail stock? So I guess the chuck should be snug, but not tight? Low speed, so it doesn't go whipping across the shop? (I could probably experiment, but this has the potential of hurting me, so I'd rather ask!)



yup, you got the right idea. chuck snug, but not fully tightened, then you bring the toolpost to the (lightly) wobbly part until it comes in contact, then give it a bit of a nudge to bring it closer to turning on center then tighten the chuck for actual work.


----------



## 8ntsane

Mike
They are very handy when you are trying to get a work piece to turn with min runout as possible. Very usefull when tying to get a thin disc to run straight, or a piece that seems to wobble around, and you need to loosen the chuck and try it again.

To use, set the lathe on a very low speed, just lightly snug the work piece in the chuck. The bearing should be brought up to the wobbling part, and as you apply presure, the work piece will start to run straight. Once you have it at a reasonable run out, check with your indicater. If your happy with it, tighten the work piece, and re check to make sure.

If your carefull, you can use this tool to quickly assist you to get the min run out possible. Just remember, lightly snug the work piece, you need the bearing to push it into alignment. Slow RPM, and dont forget to tighten the chuck before you start cutting. 

A real usefull tool to get the work running as true as possible, before the cutting begins. Many times will bring the run out with in a few thou.


----------



## wawoodman

Got it! Many thanks. Consider it built!

EDIT:

And here it is! I went with the round version, simply because I had the round stock, but no square. I turned the shaft down to .375 for the bearing, and held the bearing in place with an E-clip. I cut the E-clip groove with a screwdriver tip. (Which I heard about on some forum; not sure which one!) But it worked great. In fact, I used the first one to center the shaft for the second one. Woo-hoo!

Where do you guys get bearings? I went to the local bearing store, and paid about $11 each for these. I don't even know if that's a decent price, or not. (I know it's better than the $22.50 each he had on some others, the same size!) Do you get a few common sized ones to have around for that midnight inspiration, or do you order them as needed?


----------



## PurpLev

wawoodman said:


> Got it! Many thanks. Consider it built!
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Where do you guys get bearings?



looks good Mike!

I actually got my bearings from old rollerblades wheels that I found and disassembled. may not be good enough for some precision applications, but certainly good enough for this purpose at least so far.


----------



## swatson144

1st place I check is Boca Bearings sales. especially for little bearings.

One of the wonderful things about building your own tooling is if you need 12$ each bearings a slight modification could maybe get you into .99$ bearings.

I use them in RC helis and often replace the crap that comes in a 700$ heli kit.

If you don't feel comfortable just search out the part # and you may find that the .99$ bearing is a 12$ bearing if arrived at differently.

Steve


----------



## wawoodman

Boca has been added to my bookmarks. Thanks!


----------



## 7HC

8ntsane said:


> To use, set the lathe on a very low speed, just lightly snug the work piece in the chuck. The bearing should be brought up to the wobbling part, and as you apply presure, the work piece will start to run straight. Once you have it at a reasonable run out, check with your indicater. If your happy with it, tighten the work piece, and re check to make sure.



I think I get it, but why two bearings?


M


----------



## 8ntsane

Why 2 bearings?
Really, it just allows you to drop it on your QCTP either way, facing the chuck, or the side of the chuck. A one bearing job works, but most have both in one tool holder, set it, and forget it. Its allways ready to use that way.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/5448-True-it-up-first!?highlight=true
Here is a thread with a few more idea,s


----------



## ScrapMetal

wawoodman said:


> Where do you guys get bearings?



I just added Boca to my list as well but I've had very good luck with VXB Bearings on the 'bay - http://stores.ebay.com/VXB-Bearings-Skateboard-and-Slotcar?_rdc=1

-Ron


----------



## wawoodman

Thanks for the tip on VXB. I might grab a batch of those skateboard bearings just to have around. I guess quality isn't an issue, since I wouldn't be running anything high speed on them.

I was looking for a bearing with a 1 inch OD. That would make the math a lot easier if I was using it as an edge finder. It's odd (at least, I think so!) that they are so hard to find. Plenty of 7/8, and 1-1/8, though. I found one and ordered it http://www.amazon.com/Freud-62-120-1-Inch-Replacement-Bearing/dp/B00004T7NR but why are the standard bearings the odd sizes? Anybody know?


----------



## sanddan

swatson144 said:


> 1st place I check is Boca Bearings sales. especially for little bearings.
> 
> One of the wonderful things about building your own tooling is if you need 12$ each bearings a slight modification could maybe get you into .99$ bearings.
> 
> I use them in RC helis and often replace the crap that comes in a 700$ heli kit.
> 
> If you don't feel comfortable just search out the part # and you may find that the .99$ bearing is a 12$ bearing if arrived at differently.
> 
> Steve



Steve, 

A little off topic but how in the world can you afford RC helis AND machine tooling costs at the same time. My heli hobby died when i bought my lathe and mill. Now all of my extra spending money (and extra time) goes to my new addiction.

Back on topic, I also recommend Boca bearings for precision needs. McMaster-Carr is also a good source.

Dan


----------



## 8ntsane

Ok guys
Im hearing the crickets in here again 

You guys must be building somthing. So, give it up for a look, and dont forget the pics :nono:

Finished or in progress, its all good  :worthless:


----------



## monkers

Great work guys, thank you for sharing it !


----------



## Chucketn

*Re: Shop made tooling*



8ntsane said:


> A few more things
> 
> QCTP side driller , with keyless chuck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that should get the ball rolling.
> Your turn



8ntsane,
Could you give more detail on how you made the cross driller, please?

Chuck


----------



## 8ntsane

Hi Chuck

The QCTP holder is originally for boring bars. I just removed the split sleeve. The keyless chuck was picked up for about 20 bucks, and if I remember it had a 3/8 fine thread. I just measured the holders bore and turned up a shaft to fit.

I cant remember if I single pointed the thread, or used a die. You could also just drill and tap the shaft the same size thread as the chuck has, and find a bolt with enough thread and cut the threaded portion off to use as a threaded stud. A drop of Loc Tite would hold the stud in place nicely.

I cut the flats on the mill with the rotary table. You can cut either 3 or 6 flats, will work fine either way.
I just use grease on the shaft for lube, and works fine. Fairly handy tool, as you can use for side drilling, and face drilling by sliding the shaft out, and inserting it on the other side of the block.

I guess you could do a better one by putting a bronze bushing ,Delrin, or a pair of bearings in the block.
But I can still insert the split sleeve, and use it for boring bars if need be. I dont use mine all that often now. I have a drill press mounted to the compound for drilling now. But you need a large lathe to do that mod.

The first page of this thread shows the drill prill mounted to the compound. Also the same page shows a boring head adapted to the same tool block for turning balls, and a tool post grinder mounted as well. Those QCTP boring bar holder can be used to mount many different tools.


----------



## Mrsonso

*Lathe Ball tool maker*

Here is a ball tool i made that will do diameters of up to 5 1/4".


----------



## RandyM

Very nice Mrsonso! :thumbsup: I like it.


----------



## OakRidgeGuy

You dont' even want to know what went through my mind, but if you must have a clue, it is a name of a song. 

Mr M, that is pretty sweet! 

Doc


----------



## 8ntsane

Mr M     looking good, and has a large capacity as well. Just gotta like the home made tooling. It inspires other members to get there machines fired up, and make up usefull tooling they will use for yrs to come.       :thumbzup:


----------



## ScrapMetal

I'm a bit surprised that it did as well as it looks like it did.  I would have guessed that with it being that far extended, it wouldn't have been rigid enough to get that nice of result.  Guess that goes to show just how good my "gut instincts" are.

Nice job!

-Ron


----------



## 8ntsane

ScrapMetal said:


> I'm a bit surprised that it did as well as it looks like it did.  I would have guessed that with it being that far extended, it wouldn't have been rigid enough to get that nice of result.  Guess that goes to show just how good my "gut instincts" are.
> 
> Nice job!
> 
> -Ron


I wondered about that too Ron.
Ive had times when I didn't have a choice, and had to hold workthat way. Being I hate surprizes, I would use my bull nose center and just push it up to the work so I could see it spinning. Or if that isn't available, then use your live center instead. Its cuts down on the pucker factor a lot. I just assumed he used one or the other.:whistle:


----------



## jumps4

really nice work on the ball turner it does a great job really
do you know a good dentist?  :lmao::lmao::lmao:
steve


----------



## pdentrem

*Retracting Threading Tool Holder*

I bought the kit from Hemingway, http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/Retracting_Tool_Holder.html 

It comes with all the steel parts in just saw cut from stock, bolts and etc. Full drawings that are excellent. I have received drawings from big business that were junk compared to Hemingway's.
It has approximately .125" movement. Since I do not have any Brit thread taps, I subbed with standard #8, 10 and 1/4" hardware.
I likely will make it again and make it part of the tool holder and make the handle smaller (it is mine, not as supplied, I have many of these knobs:nuts. 

A very nice project that requires lathe, mill and drill press. A couple of weekends was all it took.
Pierre


----------



## 8ntsane

Pierre

Nice looking job :thumbsup:
That should be very handy when doing threading jobs. If you have more pics of your toolholder, please post them up. Very interesting looking item to say the least. Appears to be a great kit for the money.

Good Job


----------



## wpala

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Wow this is stunning!!
I love the way you did it I'm preapering to make one of this  for my Standard Modern lathe just the quick question how did you scribe the degree  lines?? what tool  did you use  sharp point SS?  and how did you do it can you describe  quickly the process I think this is way beyopnd my  machining abilties at this moment but I wouldn't mind find more about the process

Paul



Bob a Job said:


> A tapper turning attachment i made .
> 
> 
> BJ


----------



## pdentrem

Here are some pics of the finished kit from Hemingway.
Very inexpensive and I liked building this. Quicker than some projects that are still not finished!:whiteflag:

As I stated, I will reduce the handle size. The kit comes with a 3/16" rod with suggestion of turning a ball for the end. I do not have a ball turning tool, but lots of these knobs. With the handle forwards, you are on the top of the cam and 180 degrees to the back, the bottom of the cam. There is a spring return, the tool comes back pretty quick as the spring is fairly stout.
Pierre


----------



## wpala

Hi
I would love to build something like that if you done with the plans I wouldn't mind   buy it off you if you  want sell them let me know
Paul





pdentrem said:


> Here are some pics of the finished kit from Hemingway.
> Very inexpensive and I liked building this. Quicker than some projects that are still not finished!:whiteflag:
> 
> As I stated, I will reduce the handle size. The kit comes with a 3/16" rod with suggestion of turning a ball for the end. I do not have a ball turning tool, but lots of these knobs. With the handle forwards, you are on the top of the cam and 180 degrees to the back, the bottom of the cam. There is a spring return, the tool comes back pretty quick as the spring is fairly stout.
> Pierre


----------



## 8ntsane

Pierre

Thanks for the extra pics. That job sure turned out well, and the kit price is very reasonably priced. I think the handle looks fine really. With the shape and size it is, it looks to be right to me. If it had a small machined ball, it could be harder to grip your hand on it. Maybe its just me? If you don't have a ball turner yet, maybe you have a boring head laying around. If you look through this thread, I think you'll find the set up I use. Ive even cut balls with it on the milling machine too.


----------



## pdentrem

Actually I do have an abandoned boring head. It came in a box of stuff. I have not made a new body etc for it as I just have not needed one yet. It is 3/4" bored. I saw that ball turning setup earlier that is why it is on the table and not in the drawer!
Pierre


----------



## 8ntsane

Pierre

If you make up the base for that, you could use it for ball turning.
I had made a ball turner for the 12X37 lathe I once owned. But have been using the boring head ever since I went to the larger lathe.

I have a few sizes of the cheap Chinese boring heads, a 2 inch and a 3 inch. They are from Busy Bee, and the arbours for them are 15 or 20 bucks. I bought a #3 M/T one, and machined it straight to fit my QCTP boring bar holder, and made a handle for it. 

Works very well, and can still switch back the arbour to the R-8 for use on the mill. The QC boring bar holder can also be used for its original intended purpose. To turn balls on the mill, I just put the boring head in a chuck mounted to the rotary table, and the work piece in a collet in the quill.

Just multi tasks for the same tools.
Try it out before making a separate tool just for turning balls.
Those Busy-Bee boring heads are so cheap these days, you may want to look at those for boring on your Mill, and ball turning on your lathe. You can also do radius work too, and the BH allows you to stay close up to the chuck, with out a lot of over hang.


----------



## BRIAN

*A Fileing Rest*

An often overlooked tool for the lathe.




Mount the rest on a vertical slide,then square it up to the work.




using the guide washers file the RH side first, lowering the slide slowly, stop short of the depth you want.




Reposition the saddle to align the LH guide washers, at this point I like to add a saddle stop so I can retract
the guide to measure the depth of cut and then return to the same position.










Job done .)

Brian. I seem to have made a hash of the photo order, but in am shure you will get the idea.


----------



## dwdw47

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Its amazing the talent that is here! This is a huge place for gaining knowledge! Glad I joined this site.
Everyone pat yourself on your back you deserve it!
dwdw47

How well does the Roto-Zip work for the mini grinder? Have you tied to hold a precision size like about 0.001? I have a huge Dumore and its about 40# with out the quill assembly on it! That would be Great having a small one like that. I tried a Makita die grinder but it was crap the mounting for its arbor was plastic just a small amount of load and I could grind cams for anything.




bedwards said:


> They pale in comparison to yours and I've had some of these in other threads but here goes in order: hold down clamps made from thick walled pipe, 2 tool bit height gauges, threading stop and a handy run out indicator all to fit lampost tool holders, a group of brass hammers, a tool bit angle gauge for a Williams holder and last a tool post grinder.


----------



## 8ntsane

BRIAN

Slick tool you have built, I could have used a tool like that just the other day. Thanks for sharing it.


----------



## bedwards

*Re: Shop made tooling*



dwdw47 said:


> Its amazing the talent that is here! This is a huge place for gaining knowledge! Glad I joined this site.
> Everyone pat yourself on your back you deserve it!
> dwdw47
> 
> How well does the Roto-Zip work for the mini grinder? Have you tied to hold a precision size like about 0.001? I have a huge Dumore and its about 40# with out the quill assembly on it! That would be Great having a small one like that. I tried a Makita die grinder but it was crap the mounting for its arbor was plastic just a small amount of load and I could grind cams for anything.



Truthfully, I made it and used it once (sharpened a cutter) to make sure it worked. I covered the ways and still got dust underneath. I haven't tried it again since. :-( I'm going to have to modify it now as I bought a Phase 2 QCTP and dont have a way to mount it. 

bedwards


----------



## Dranreb

*Re: A Fileing Rest*



BRIAN said:


> An often overlooked tool for the lathe.
> 
> View attachment 45826



Great tool Brian, it took me a while to work out just what it was for as the word 'file' didn't register...:biggrin:

Will be making one of those asp, by using the indexing pin on an Atlas, making squares and hexes on a part to fit a spanner will be so easy, thanks for sharing it..

:thumbzup: Bernard


----------



## BRIAN

Thanks lads   Its a real good tool to have, it makes the job so easy. it will not alow you to go to far, or not get the job flat.  
 Just remember that the guide washers and the rollers must be free to rotate.

Regards  Brian.)


----------



## duffman1278

Nothing too fancy, just a tool holder for my lathe.










Not really a tool but a neat idea I found online for using ur phone in the shop without getting it dirty.


----------



## 8ntsane

Thanks for sharing your latest project Duffman
Have you had a chance to try it out on the machine yet? The other tip with the phone is a good idea too. It would help keep the phone in better condition over the long haul.  :thumbzup:


----------



## HarryG

*Early contributors to this thread: What happened to the pix??????*

This great thread was started on 3-27-12 and already some of the pix have disappeared...?

Any chance that those authors could re-post their pix?

"Inquiring minds want to see"


----------



## 8ntsane

*Re: Early contributors to this thread: What happened to the pix??????*



HarryG said:


> This great thread was started on 3-27-12 and already some of the pix have disappeared...?
> 
> Any chance that those authors could re-post their pix?
> 
> "Inquiring minds want to see"



Harry,   It is mostly my pics that are gone. It seems Photo Bucket had a problem, and all my pics from there are gone. I have them on my computer, But just don't know if its worth all the trouble to edit all those posts. It might be easyer to add new posts with the pics in place. I would have to ask Nelson and Tony about the pic re placements. Its just a good thing I saved my pics, and didn't rely on Photo Bucket as my only source.


----------



## Video_man

*Tailstock diestock*

Well, this isn't up to you guy's fancy work nor is it an original idea, but it's handy.  Sometimes finish off a thread with a die (lazy that way) and I made these diestocks.  They ride on a guide shaft for accuracy until the threads are well started, at which time I can switch to an ordinary diestock.  Made one for 2 inch dies and one for 1 1/2 inch dies.


----------



## cathead

Here are some vee blocks I made for the mill.


                                   Cathead


----------



## kacce

*small saw on sb9*

I made a small parts to my myfordboys saw.


----------



## 8ntsane

*Re: small saw on sb9*



kacce said:


> I made a small parts to my myfordboys saw.



Nice addition to your lathe, do you have other shots of this tool at different angles of use? Looks like a fairly large motor on it. Thinking outside of the box, I like it.

- - - Updated - - -



Video_man said:


> Well, this isn't up to you guy's fancy work nor is it an original idea, but it's handy.  Sometimes finish off a thread with a die (lazy that way) and I made these diestocks.  They ride on a guide shaft for accuracy until the threads are well started, at which time I can switch to an ordinary diestock.  Made one for 2 inch dies and one for 1 1/2 inch dies.


Your tailstock die holder may not be super fancy, but its all about function and ease of use, I think you have it covered nicely on both counts, and looks pretty fancy too!  Nice work!

- - - Updated - - -



cathead said:


> Here are some vee blocks I made for the mill.
> 
> 
> Cathead



Very Nice looking Job on the V blocks Cathead Good Job!


----------



## kacce

*Re: Lathe Ball tool maker*

No smithing


----------



## itsme_Bernie

*Re: Shop made tooling*



Bob a Job said:


> A tapper turning attachment i made .
> 
> 
> BJ



This is a piece of artwork!  You are a true craftsman BJ, wow...  I am aiming to be as talented and well planned as you as get back into the swing of things!




Bernie


----------



## itsme_Bernie

*Re: Shop made tooling*



PurpLev said:


> here are a few I posted here in my albums:
> 
> a quick-rough-dialing-in attachment to the QCTP:
> 
> 
> Some end-mill holders and blanks (planning to make a fly cutter with one of them):
> 
> 
> This is how I centered work on the chuck...  Not as elegant as your solution!  And potentially marring..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> Bernie


----------



## Ed Hoc

*Re: Shop made tooling*

How about some collet blocks for R-8? I don't want / can't afford to buy a set of 5C, so here we go. I made some for R-8. I started with square and hex stock.  A pretty straight forward piece of lathe work. I bored each end separately, as the collet locates on the ends. I ended up with about 6 tenths of runout on a dowel pin clamped in the collets, close enough for me.
Yes the R-8 is limited on size selection, but I've already got them....
Enjoy
Ed Hoc


----------



## pineyfolks

*Re: Shop made tooling*



Ed Hoc said:


> How about some collet blocks for R-8? I don't want / can't afford to buy a set of 5C, so here we go. I made some for R-8. I started with square and hex stock.  A pretty straight forward piece of lathe work. I bored each end separately, as the collet locates on the ends. I ended up with about 6 tenths of runout on a dowel pin clamped in the collets, close enough for me.
> Yes the R-8 is limited on size selection, but I've already got them....
> Enjoy
> Ed Hoc
> 
> 
> 
> QUOTE]
> Ed, making yourself an adjustable tailstock or v-block to support longer stock will come in handy. That's what I did and it worked out good for me.


----------



## 8ntsane

*Re: Shop made tooling*



Ed Hoc said:


> How about some collet blocks for R-8? I don't want / can't afford to buy a set of 5C, so here we go. I made some for R-8. I started with square and hex stock. A pretty straight forward piece of lathe work. I bored each end separately, as the collet locates on the ends. I ended up with about 6 tenths of runout on a dowel pin clamped in the collets, close enough for me.
> Yes the R-8 is limited on size selection, but I've already got them....
> Enjoy
> Ed Hoc
> 
> View attachment 50994
> )
> View attachment 50995



Ed, that's a nice idea, I like it. Thanks for sharing this. I also have tons of R-8 collets, and a few collet chucks that don't get used to often, so I think you created another project for me ; )

- - - Updated - - -



Ed Hoc said:


> How about some collet blocks for R-8? I don't want / can't afford to buy a set of 5C, so here we go. I made some for R-8. I started with square and hex stock. A pretty straight forward piece of lathe work. I bored each end separately, as the collet locates on the ends. I ended up with about 6 tenths of runout on a dowel pin clamped in the collets, close enough for me.
> Yes the R-8 is limited on size selection, but I've already got them....
> Enjoy
> Ed Hoc
> 
> View attachment 50994
> )
> View attachment 50995



Ed, that's a nice idea, I like it. Thanks for sharing this. I also have tons of R-8 collets, and a few collet chucks that don't get used to often, so I think you created another project for me ; )


----------



## pineyfolks

After I made my hex R-8 block I made a round one with 1/4" reamed holes with my dividing head so I don't have to lift that heavy thing on the mill for small jobs. I just insert the pin in the correct hole and rotate it against the solid jaw of my vise. Just another way you can make one for any number of spaces.


----------



## ScrapMetal

pineyfolks said:


> After I made my hex R-8 block I made a round one with 1/4" reamed holes with my dividing head so I don't have to lift that heavy thing on the mill for small jobs. I just insert the pin in the correct hole and rotate it against the solid jaw of my vise. Just another way you can make one for any number of spaces.



That's a very slick idea for a simple "indexer".

Thanks,

-Ron


----------



## John120/240

pineyfolks said:


> After I made my hex R-8 block I made a round one with 1/4" reamed holes with my dividing head so I don't have to lift that heavy thing on the mill for small jobs. I just insert the pin in the correct hole and rotate it against the solid jaw of my vise. Just another way you can make one for any number of spaces.



What holds the collet in the square block ?  Is there a draw bolt that goes out the back side ?


----------



## 8ntsane

John

both Hex or square would use a bolt on the back side to draw the collet in an tighten the work.


----------



## pineyfolks

Yes there is a drawbar bolt on the back side so they are mostly for short work unless used with a tailstock or other support. You can use an R-8  3 jaw chuck to increase capacity if needed.


----------



## mrbreezeet1

*Re: Shop made tooling*

Pictures can be hosted here, that way someone reading old posts can still see the pictures. 
We like pictures!


 	 		 			:rofl: 		





8ntsane said:


> Ok, I hear the crickets chirpin in here, so let me post some different things to get the ball rolling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was just parts from the plumbing section at home depot. Helpsn when lifting heavy chucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This disc is used to pre load your chucks jaws while grinding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about modding your Boring bar holder to take a tool post grinder on a QCTP


----------



## itsme_Bernie

*Re: Shop made tooling*

I would love to see these pics but can't- is it me and my iPad?  


Bernie





mrbreezeet1 said:


> Pictures can be hosted here, that way someone reading old posts can still see the pictures.
> We like pictures!
> 
> 
> :rofl:


----------



## 8ntsane

Guys

Regarding the pics from my posts, My photo bucket account got dumped some time ago. 
I do intend to either replace the pics in the original post, or delete the original and repost a new one.
I also had my computer crash to the floor when my dog decided to drag it off the table. So many pics I had were lost. The new windows 8 computer has been taking awhile to learn all the ins and outs, but I have a handle on it some what, and could start replacing the pics or threads. Will get the pics fixed up soon.


----------



## 8ntsane

In response to a PM from Que requesting pics, and infro on a Tool Post Grinder for the AXA tool post. I used a boring bar holder that was a extra laying around. I bored it out to 1 inch ID, then used a slit saw acoss the side. Then drilled and tapped for a pinch bolt.
The hand piece is a Foredom unit, as is the motor. These hand pieces are cheap, very compact, and bearing are easy to change, and US made. Cable driven with remote motor. I use this type of hand piece, as I have many foredome products, and been very happy over the yrs. Good for light grinding jobs, and trueing up chuck jaws, what I mainly use it for.


----------



## papermaker

Getting ready to move my milling machine tomorrow. I remember how much of a struggle we had getting the mill up onto skids last spring I decided to come up with something better than a crowbar and blocks of wood. 
I took some 3/8 plate steel and formed a bracket to go my small 4 ton bottle jack. I think that this will be safer and easier than trying to stand on a pry bar and scoot blocks of wood under it.


----------



## 8ntsane

That's going to come in very handy when you need to get some day light between the floor and machine. Though I still use the big pinch bar, I usually use 1/2 round bar to roll the machines around on. The solid stock wont collapse, and keeps the machine close to the ground. Let us know how you new creation works out for you.

Nice Job  :thumbsup:


----------



## papermaker

papermaker said:


> Getting ready to move my milling machine tomorrow. I remember how much of a struggle we had getting the mill up onto skids last spring I decided to come up with something better than a crowbar and blocks of wood.
> I took some 3/8 plate steel and formed a bracket to go my small 4 ton bottle jack. I think that this will be safer and easier than trying to stand on a pry bar and scoot blocks of wood under it.



used the jack last night to put skids under the mill and then put pipes under the skids. Work like a dream.Got the mill up and moved about 20'by myself. The ramp truck came and 39 minutes later he was on his way.


----------



## tarawa

*Bolt action retractable threading tool and tangential lathe tool.*

My not too fancy bolt action retractable threading tool. It works great and was easy to make...even for me. Also, my version of a great tangential lathe tool design by Lew Hartswick.

- - - Updated - - -

- - - Updated - - -


----------



## 8ntsane

Here is a simple disc I made to preload chuck jaws while regrinding. Provides clearance for the tool post grinder, and allows the user to preload the jaws in the same direction as used.



- - - Updated - - -

 Here is a boring bar holder modded to take my Foredom hand piece. Primary use for regrinding chuck jaws. Makes a nice mount for a tool post grinder.


----------



## 8ntsane

*Chuck adapter for a TOS 12 chuck*

Here is one of the many adapter plates that I have made for my lathe. The lathe has a L-1 type spindle, and the spindle hubs are not easy to find used, and new ones are not cheap.


----------



## 8ntsane

*Home built steady rest*


The original was lost in a move, so this is the replacement I made for the Sidney lathe. The finger are reversible, and can be used with the rollers, or without.


----------



## Ed Hoc

*8ntsane*  Good job on those adapter plates.  I know it's no small trick getting those buggers parallel and flat with no "singing" chatter.  
Ed Hoc


----------



## 8ntsane

*Tangential Tool Holder for 1/2 tooling*

This tool holder was the design from a member on this site, FarFar (Niels)  His were designed to holder smaller tooling, but I happen to have a big lathe, so 1/2 tool holder was in order. Thanks Niels


----------



## 8ntsane

*Spindle Indexer for the Sidney Lathe*

This is a 60 hole spindle indexer I drilled into my adapter plate on my 8 inch 4 jaw. The spring loaded spindle lock clamps to the outer way. Great for indexing bolt patterns, and not having to tear the setup down and move to the mill, a real time saver.

Whoops, these pics needed to be turned 90 degrees, just tilt your head left, its all good .lol

- - - Updated - - -



Ed Hoc said:


> *8ntsane* Good job on those adapter plates. I know it's no small trick getting those buggers parallel and flat with no "singing" chatter.
> Ed Hoc




Oh I know what you mean Ed
Feeds and speeds make the difference.

- - - Updated - - -



tarawa said:


> My not too fancy bolt action retractable threading tool. It works great and was easy to make...even for me. Also, my version of a great tangential lathe tool design by Lew Hartswick.
> 
> - - - Updated - - -
> 
> - - - Updated - - -


Very Nice work! That bolt action retractablr threading tool is very impressive.  
:thumbsup:


----------



## itsme_Bernie

8ntsane said:


> In response to a PM from Que requesting pics, and infro on a Tool Post Grinder for the AXA tool post. I used a boring bar holder that was a extra laying around. I bored it out to 1 inch ID, then used a slit saw acoss the side. Then drilled and tapped for a pinch bolt.
> The hand piece is a Foredom unit, as is the motor. These hand pieces are cheap, very compact, and bearing are easy to change, and US made. Cable driven with remote motor. I use this type of hand piece, as I have many foredome products, and been very happy over the yrs. Good for light grinding jobs, and trueing up chuck jaws, what I mainly use it for.



LOVE THIS....  Holy crap I have to do this


Bernie


----------



## itsme_Bernie

*Re: Spindle Indexer for the Sidney Lathe*



8ntsane said:


> This is a 60 hole spindle indexer I drilled into my adapter plate on my 8 inch 4 jaw. The spring loaded spindle lock clamps to the outer way. Great for indexing bolt patterns, and not having to tear the setup down and move to the mill, a real time saver.
> 
> Whoops, these pics needed to be turned 90 degrees, just tilt your head left, its all good .lol
> 
> 8ntsane-
> 
> You make me want to make all of these!!  And such beautiful work!!  Wow...
> 
> With the indexing chuck backplate- do you put something on the compound to drill or something?  Or are you using a tool in a toolholder to make marks (like for a bolt pattern) while set up to make it easier to move to another machine?
> 
> 
> Bernie


----------



## 8ntsane

8ntsane-

You make me want to make all of these!! And such beautiful work!! Wow...

With the indexing chuck backplate- do you put something on the compound to drill or something? Or are you using a tool in a toolholder to make marks (like for a bolt pattern) while set up to make it easier to move to another machine?

*Bernie


LOL, very good question Bernie
Stay tuned, I have two items I use for drilling. I will post pics of those today. Both are used on the lathe, and no need to take the work piece out of the chuck, and resetup on the mill.*


----------



## 8ntsane

Bernie

Here is what I use.
The top two pics are a modded drill press I use when doing bolt patterns. The bottom pic is the drilling rigs I use with a hand drill attached to the end. The one for the QCTP is used for side, and face drilling. The other fits my 4-way tool post, and allows me to mount up on the back side. This allows more clearance for large diameter work, and long drill bits. The wheel laying on the saddle shows what can be done in only one chucking.
Sorry the pics are 90 degree,s out of wack, again just tilt your head to the left. Gotta figure out how to fix that ,lol


----------



## wawoodman

8ntsane said:


> Bernie
> 
> Here is what I use.
> The top two pics are a modded drill press I use when doing bolt patterns. The bottom pic is the drilling rigs I use with a hand drill attached to the end. The one for the QCTP is used for side, and face drilling. The other fits my 4-way tool post, and allows me to mount up on the back side. This allows more clearance for large diameter work, and long drill bits. The wheel laying on the saddle shows what can be done in only one chucking.
> Sorry the pics are 90 degree,s out of wack, again just tilt your head to the left. Gotta figure out how to fix that ,lol



Neat! Does the shaft ride in bearings, or bronze sleeves, or anything?


----------



## 8ntsane

Mike
The one mounted in a boring bar QCTP holder does not have any bearings installed. The other shown for the 4-way turret TP does. The boring bar holder was smooth inside the bore, so I just machined up a shaft to fit the bore. It works well with  smear of grease on the shaft. I didn't use bearings on that one because I wanted the ability to slide the shaft out and reverse it. Making it useable for side, and face drilling. 

I have a few to choose from, but if you really wanted to make it better, I would use a brass sleeve that is machined to a shoulder. That way you could still slide the sleeve out to reverse it. Those boring bar holders have two pinch bolts that would retain the sleeve. You could also add a bearing behind the chuck as well. Then you could use the crosslide to apply the pressure when drilling.

One last thing to mention. A lot of people think those boring bar holders are to hard to machine. I used a boring bar holder to hold my tool post grinder, and had to bore it to 1- inch ID, and slit the block and add a pinch bolt. I found those holders not hard to machine at all.


----------



## itsme_Bernie

8ntsane said:


> Bernie
> 
> Here is what I use.
> The top two pics are a modded drill press I use when doing bolt patterns. The bottom pic is the drilling rigs I use with a hand drill attached to the end. The one for the QCTP is used for side, and face drilling. The other fits my 4-way tool post, and allows me to mount up on the back side. This allows more clearance for large diameter work, and long drill bits. The wheel laying on the saddle shows what can be done in only one chucking.
> Sorry the pics are 90 degree,s out of wack, again just tilt your head to the left. Gotta figure out how to fix that ,lol



Man that is great!!  I have a little spare drill press head laying around (collect much?? HYAH hah) ..  What a great idea!

This week I am setting up my QCTP to be able to drill.  FANTASTIC way to work once it is lined up!  I can even use normal drills for Brass without it "pulling" the bit while using the carriage feed instead...   Feed in, release, draw out and clear chips, and right back in!  


Bernie


----------



## Harvey Melvin Richards

I machine a lot of small flat parts, quite often made of plastic. I made these small toe clamps 10+ years ago, and I use them so much, I made a bunch more. The thread is 1/4-20.





- - - Updated - - -

I often need to machine holes or flats on small diameter (under 3/8"). These items are difficult to hold with conventional vee blocks, so I made my own more useful block.





The threaded holes are 1/4-20 and run all the way through the block. The block gets held in a standard mill vise. Quite often I'm shifting the toe clamps to get access to the part.





- - - Updated - - -

I'm often attempting to hold slippery items in the mill vise. To make this easier I made some soft jaws with threaded hold down holes.


----------



## Harvey Melvin Richards

This table drops into the vise. Everything squares up and there is no need to remove the vise and dial in a sub plate. The top needs more overhang on the ends so that material can also be clamped using conventional clamps.





- - - Updated - - -

This is an angle plate that hangs over the edge of the mill table. This allows me to work on parts too large to fit under the head of the mill.


----------



## 8ntsane

Nice work Harvey
That that job looks 1 st class, and should prove to be very usefull for up coming jobs.
:thumbsup:


----------



## Sharky

Since I've been watching this thread, I decided to post a few of my own creations:

Small brass v-block



Small screw jack



MT2 Center drill holders



Height setter



Height setter in use



And... just for fun...


----------



## sanddan

Sharky said:


> Since I've been watching this thread, I decided to post a few of my own creations:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And... just for fun...
> View attachment 57200



Care to share how you did this one?


----------



## Sharky

sanddan said:


> Care to share how you did this one?



I wish I could take all the credit, but here is a link with good photo explanation of the process:

http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/Projects/CaptiveNut/captivenut.html

I took it a step further on the one I made for my dad, I bored out one end to match a 
quick-connect key ring.  It gets a lot of attention on the table at lunch!


----------



## davidh

Sharky said:


> Since I've been watching this thread, I decided to post a few of my own creations:
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> nice work, handy stuff too.  I need to show off my captured nut too   just had to. . . .


----------



## brasssmanget

I made one of those thread rods with smooth ends last year, and everyone that sees it is totally confused and in awe of how it was done. Quite a conversation piece at my house.....


----------



## Bill Gruby

Here ya go again Dan. I missed the first post. :lmao:

http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/Projects/CaptiveNut/captivenut.html

 "Billy G"


----------



## itsme_Bernie

*Re: Shop made tooling*



pineyfolks said:


> Here's a simple one for ya' I made a depth gauge for my shop press using a pointer and a 6" scale mounted with magnets. Just gives me some idea of where I'm at and helps when using my brake to make more than one part at the same angle.



Wow!  What a great idea!  Love it!  I could put one on top of the arbor press, with an attachment sort of like the tailstock dial indicator adapters...   

Bernie


----------



## Chucketn

I completed my drawbar wrench/hammer for my X2 mill today. I’m quite pleased with it. It’s not perfect, but I’m proud of it. It was made from a store bought deep socket, and brass and aluminum I inherited in Dad’s workbench. This project was based on and inspired by the Soft Faced Hammer Project on the Projects in Metal Forum.







Chuck


----------



## Charley Davidson

Chuck, that hammer is very nice & resourceful, but wondering if the socket will hold up. Is it cast or machined from a solid piece?


----------



## Chucketn

Charlie, I don't have a clue as to the construction of the socket. I bought it off the rack at Lowe's. Just a 17 mm deep socket, I think it was Kobalt brand. I don't think I'll wear it out!

Chuck


----------



## righto88

Chuck thank you for posting this. I got to put that on my "to do" list. I have been wanting to make one and never tought of using a deep well sockett.
That will make it easy. Yours looks very nice.:man:And like you think I am sure that sockett will last quite a while. And if it did give up the ghost in 5, 10, 15,,,, years, it would be easy to repair.


----------



## Chucketn

righto88,

If you don't need chrome on the socket, Im told the black impact sockets are easier to machine. I had a time trying to counterbore the socket for the handle.
I also tried to ad a washer of black plastic between the brass and aluminum in the handle for contrast, bit couldn't get a decent finish on it.

Chuck


----------



## Sharky

Finally got to make the 3/8" boring bar holder:






Detailed project here:

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...You-Do-in-Your-Shop-Today?p=135369#post135369


----------



## Harvey Melvin Richards

*Digital Depth Gauge
*
I made a base for a digital indicator and turned it into a very useful digital depth gauge. The collet that holds the indicator is available from McMaster Carr, MCS, and Starrett. By using different indicator tips, it can be used on very small diameter holes. The base is tool steel that has been ground flat, but not hardened.


----------



## melsdad

Looks good. How have you used it so far?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


----------



## Harvey Melvin Richards

melsdad said:


> Looks good. How have you used it so far?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk



I assume you are asking about my depth gauge. Yes, I use it regularly. I have a digital Mitutoyo, 0 to 6" and a vernier Starrett 0 to 6", and I use my modified indicator the most, especially on holes from 0 to 1". It's quick and just as accurate as the other gauges.


----------



## Jim1942

I'm nowhere near the machinist that many of you guys are by any means of the word, but I have built a few pieces of machinery that have been a big help around the farm and my shop.

I saw a belt sander that takes a 3" X 120" belt and decided I would get a lot of use out of one.  Well, actually I built 2 because I wanted 1 in my wood working shop and another down to my shed where I do some black smithing.  I also wanted to build myself a power hammer.

I had an old set of 2 bottom plows sitting down in the woods and thought there was most of what I needed right there.

Attached are some pictures of the belt sanders and the power hammer.  Also, is a picture of a hydraulic press that I built.  I've had a lot of use out of it, especially when I needed to press a broach to cut an internal keyway.  Not much precision, but good work horses on all 3 pieces.

Sorry, but I don't have very good lighting down to the shed.  The power hammer and press don't show up good.  Perhaps I'll do better later if there is any interest.

Jim


----------



## melsdad

I built  a 2" x 72" belt grinder a few years ago. It is a KMG clone with a 2 hp 3ph motor run off a VFD. I still need to get everything powder coated and make a few more wheels, but she is running good!








Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


----------



## melsdad

Here is a swiveling vise base that I made for apattot vise. I use this mainly for knife work, but it has been useful for other jobs over the years.
It swivels 360º and at an angle of 45º and locks down very snug with tightening any of the 3 s.h.c.s. in the base





Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


----------



## jbolt

I thought the commercial rotary broach holders were priced way too high for what they are so I rolled my own. Body and tool holder from scrap 1018 crs, modified MT3/JT4 drill chuck arbor $8, ball and thrust bearings $30. I still need to make a straight arbor for using in the mill. Cutter in picture is 1/2" hex from Polygon. I plan on making my own as soon as I get my furnace built. So far I have used it to hex broach steel pinion gears. 






Jay


----------



## xalky

That's very cool. I've never seen a rotary broach in action. Is it a vibratory fore/aft motion that cuts the broach?


----------



## jbolt

xalky said:


> That's very cool. I've never seen a rotary broach in action. Is it a vibratory fore/aft motion that cuts the broach?



Here is a definition from Slater Tools. They have some videos too.


"Rotary broaching, also known as wobble broaching, is an exclusive, fast, amazing and accurate method of producing internal and external polygon forms on the end of a workpiece.
The Rotary Broach Tool Holder can be used on any CNC, Swiss, milling, screw or other turning machine. The Rotary Broach Tool Holder has an internal live spindle which holds an end cutting broach tool.
In a lathe, screw or other turning machine, the Rotary Broach Tool Holder is mounted stationary while its internal live spindle and rotary broach rotate with the workpiece. Driven by the workpiece, the rotary broach tool's corners are continually changing contact points on the workpiece, making a wobbling type action while it cuts each corner of the form. In a milling machine, the Tool Holder's body rotates with the machine spindle while its internal live spindle and the rotary broach tool remain stationary. This also creates a wobbling type action while the rotary broach tool's corners are continually changing contact points on the workpiece.
Form sizes can be broached up to 2 inches in aluminum, 1.5 inches in brass and 1 inch in steel. This is only a point of reference as many other materials and depths have been successfully rotary broached.
The recommended forming depth of rotary broaching is up to 1.5 times the distance across flats or the diameter of the inscribed circle profile to be broached. This again is only a point of reference. Depending on the application, deeper depths can be achieved."


----------



## xalky

OK, so it's very similar to a rotary hammer drill in action. What I want to know is how is he producing the wobble?


----------



## Charley Davidson

I have the Slater internal and external rotary broaches


----------



## GK1918

sanddan said:


> Care to share how you did this one?




When you do, use locktite in there.  Long ago we machined several even knurled the ends.  Then left them at auto and hardware stores
on the counters.......used for advertising.........


----------



## McGuyvers shop

I've had a little brass hammer for many years that someone made long ago. It is definitely used and I always think about who made it and what they were thinking when they made it. It's a good feeling to know that something you make will last for generations, so with that being said, I decided to make my own version of an aluminum / brass inserted hammer that hopefully someone 40 years from now will appreciate. Very basic, but I enjoyed it very much.


----------



## melsdad

jbolt said:


> I thought the commercial rotary broach holders were priced way too high for what they are so I rolled my own. Body and tool holder from scrap 1018 crs, modified MT3/JT4 drill chuck arbor $8, ball and thrust bearings $30. I still need to make a straight arbor for using in the mill. Cutter in picture is 1/2" hex from Polygon. I plan on making my own as soon as I get my furnace built. So far I have used it to hex broach steel pinion gears.
> 
> View attachment 66105
> View attachment 66106
> View attachment 66107
> 
> 
> Jay



Jbolt, That is a very clean and slick looking design! Can you elaborate on the tool with some sizes and maybe part numbers to the bearings? 

How do you adjust the broaching tool to run concentric?

Thanks


----------



## rangerman

xalky said:


> OK, so it's very similar to a rotary hammer drill in action. What I want to know is how is he producing the wobble?



It produces a wobble because the longitudinal axis of the cutting tool is off by a degree or so compared to the axis of rotation of the work being cut.
When the work rotates ( or vice versa with the cutting tool) the cutting tool is carried with it but since the tool center line is not square with the work a rocking motion is produced whereby the cutting edges of the tool move in and out in a reciprocating motion against the work. 
It's just like the tool edges are chiseling the work in a rapid succession.

I hope I have explained it simple enough.


----------



## xalky

rangerman said:


> It produces a wobble because the longitudinal axis of the cutting tool is off by a degree or so compared to the axis of rotation of the work being cut.
> When the work rotates ( or vice versa with the cutting tool) the cutting tool is carried with it but since the tool center line is not square with the work a rocking motion is produced whereby the cutting edges of the tool move in and out in a reciprocating motion against the work.
> It's just like the tool edges are chiseling the work in a rapid succession.
> 
> I hope I have explained it simple enough.


I know that now. I was so fascinated by it that I'm actually building one now. You can read about it here: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/19945-Shop-made-Rotary-broach-holder-and-broaches

Marcel


----------



## ARM

> McGuyvers shop said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've had a little brass hammer for many years that someone made long ago. It is definitely used and I always think about who made it and what they were thinking when they made it. It's a good feeling to know that something you make will last for generations, so with that being said, I decided to make my own version of an aluminum / brass inserted hammer that hopefully someone 40 years from now will appreciate. Very basic, but I enjoyed it very much.
Click to expand...


Hi McGuyver
Nice work
Not bad at all
Good show.
aRM


----------



## hman

chucketn said:


> I completed my drawbar wrench/hammer for my X2 mill today. I’m quite pleased with it. It’s not perfect, but I’m proud of it. It was made from a store bought deep socket, and brass and aluminum I inherited in Dad’s workbench. This project was based on and inspired by the Soft Faced Hammer Project on the Projects in Metal Forum.
> 
> Chuck



That's definitely a beautiful piece of work, and your pride is justified.  I've had my X2 for a number of years, and one of the first things I did was to dig through my "slush pile" of old wrenches to find one that fit the drawbar.  I shortened it to about 6 1/2", just right to tighten the R8 collets sufficiently without going "farmer tight." 

Very soon thereafter, I decided I needed to add some kind of soft-face hammer, to help release the collets.  Being crude and lazy, I just found a random chunk of aluminum and milled it to fit (about 9/16 by 1 1/2 by 3/4"), sanded the curve to fit the wrench, and added a slot to accept a small hose clamp.  It's been extremely handy, especially since I don't have to turn it to alternate between wrench mode to hammer mode.


----------



## burtonbr

I haven't made many tools or fixtures, myself. One of the reasons for joining this forum to learn more about machining and how to set up and make some of the tools and things I need. I've gotten many good ideas from many of you members here and my project list is probably longer already than I'll ever be able to complete with what I have. Thanks for that to everyone. 
I was able to make a barrel vise for Thompson barrels and was very happy when it actually worked to remove 2 very stuck barrels from receiver nose sections without galling them, that I could not get out trying many other methods. its not too complicated but for one of my first machining projects I was pleased when it was successful.


----------



## randyjaco

I am not sure who I stole this from, but I really liked the idea. My big Clausing has a lot of torque and I have needed a quick vise for some of my drilling. So here is the evidence of my crime. )

Randy


----------



## hman

That's quite the two-tone paint job!!!

Congratulations, both for that and for a nice idea.


----------



## Marco Bernardini

randyjaco said:


> I am not sure who I stole this from, but I really liked the idea. My big Clausing has a lot of torque and I have needed a quick vise for some of my drilling. So here is the evidence of my crime. )
> 
> Randy



Randy, another idea, for bigger parts, would be to make two fences over T-nuts sliding in the T slots. In this way you'll have a *big* vise.


----------



## randyjaco

Marco,
I pretty well have the bigger parts covered . That table and my existing vises will hold about anything. My problem was the smaller parts, which I would inevitably try to hold with my hands . 

Randy


----------



## duffman1278

Made this jig to check the alignment of my saw blade and fence.


----------



## HACKMASTER

*part off tools for lathe*

made one for my 12'' and one for the 17''


----------



## werowance

here are some pics of my first machinist clamp i made probably a month ago.

used an etcho matic to etch my name in it,  jaws were mystery steel bar i had,  screws and tommy bars are drill rod o1,  and the retainer piece is from an old brass door bottom kick plate.  the brass screws are just some scrap 360 brass rod.


----------



## zmotorsports

werowance said:


> here are some pics of my first machinist clamp i made probably a month ago.
> 
> used an etcho matic to etch my name in it,  jaws were mystery steel bar i had,  screws and tommy bars are drill rod o1,  and the retainer piece is from an old brass door bottom kick plate.  the brass screws are just some scrap 360 brass rod.



Very nice work.  I like it.

Mike.


----------



## P.K.

I must say there's a lot of cool stuff in this thread.

Here's one of my creations. It's a tool for chucking 2-stroke cylinder heads (Kawasaki H1) in a lathe in order to reshape squish band and combustion chamber.
The cylinder head registers on the tool using the bolt holes and is normally held onto the tool by the drawbar bolt going into the sparkplug hole.

Sometimes the sparkplug hole and part of the combustion chamber may have been welded shut, in which case the head can be held onto the tool using the small screws and washers instead. As soon as a new sparkplug hole has been drilled and tapped, the drawbar can be inserted and the screws and washers removed.

P.K.


----------



## chevydyl

heres a "decorative" plumb bob that I made for a relative. solid brass, think the brass cost me about $20, the rope holder is a 7/16 bolt that I turned the head and drilled through, also spotted the holes with a center drill.  kinda neat I guess, its a fingerprint magnet so it should stay in a display.





and here also is a valve seat installer for a Union Simplex pump, low volume high pressure TRI-E-glycol. co worker ruined a $250 dollar valve using a socket to install it lol. he asked if I could make a tool, that's what I came up with, stainless bolt stock for the handle/hammer end. 4140 for the business end, tig welded with 308 wire, it worked really well, I also fixed the valve, it had some indentations on the edge of the angle. the install tool is pin and box and welded


----------



## yendor

P.K. said:


> I must say there's a lot of cool stuff in this thread.
> 
> Here's one of my creations. It's a tool for chucking 2-stroke cylinder heads (Kawasaki H1) in a lathe in order to reshape squish band and combustion chamber.
> The cylinder head registers on the tool using the bolt holes and is normally held onto the tool by the drawbar bolt going into the sparkplug hole.
> 
> Sometimes the sparkplug hole and part of the combustion chamber may have been welded shut, in which case the head can be held onto the tool using the small screws and washers instead. As soon as a new sparkplug hole has been drilled and tapped, the drawbar can be inserted and the screws and washers removed.
> 
> P.K.



Kaw (H1) the Widow Maker. I had one back in the mid '80's. Just about the only bike that scared me. 
It could wind up faster than anything I'd been on at the time.


----------



## Jericho

I made a lapping table for lathe tool bit after the are "sharpened" on a grinding wheel. The tool that I lapped will shave cuts off 4140  shaft shown finer than a hair.Made wheel from cheap disc brake. Started with a scrapped machinist magnet and built most of the apparatus to hold the bits from odd and ends.Need to get a better camera than a phone.


----------



## chevydyl

Nah, you just need a better phone, the pictures I show above were from my Samsung Galaxy S4/S5. The quality is less for a Web page than on the phone itself where the picture file is 4mb, compared to these are a couple hundred kb
Good use of the rotor


----------



## Ulma Doctor

Heres a couple puller variations, shop made.


----------



## dlane

Thanks to all with full image pics


----------



## dlane

8 , is your print/type extra small for any particular reason?. Starting August 2 2012


----------



## zmotorsports

Made a new dial indicator holder for my mill.  I started with a small Noga holder and the clamp part of my indicol setup.

I started the adapter with a 30-degree taper which will reside in the Indicol spindle mount.



I then tapped 6mmx1.0 threads into the adapter and threaded a rod to be used with a knurled thumbnut.



Threading the stud.



Stud threaded.



Adapter, stud, small taper and knurled thumbnut shown.



I then moved over to the milling machine and installed the adapter into a collet block to machine the flat on the adapter and to drill/tap the 5mmx.8 hole.



Adapter completed and installed into the Indicol spindle mount bracket.



NOGA NF61003 removed from the magnetic base and threaded onto the adapter and Indicol mount.



Installed on spindle and tested. 



Works perfect and is rock solid.  Much more rigid than the Indicol mount/arm ever was.  This allows me to indicate on a part or in a hole without having to remove the tooling from the spindle.  NOGA does manufacture a smaller arm like this one that has a 3/8" stem but you have to remove whatever tooling you are using and install either a 3/8" collet or drill chuck to accept the stem.  This way there is no need to remove whatever tooling you have installed in the spindle.

Mike.


----------



## zmotorsports

I needed some new screw jacks for my milling machine and didn't care for my cheapy import ones that I have been using.  I decided to made some that had interchangable bases.

Completed.



Broken down by components.






I made a couple of different height bases for a range of adjustability.



Nothing really hi-tech but they work and were fun to make.  I am going to make a couple of different size bases when I get some more time.  Probably one shorter and one a bit longer than what I have now.  I would also like to get a piece of UHMW or hard wood to make a storage tray for them and have a place on my shelf next to the mill.

Mike.


----------



## Ugluk

95mm boring head with an nt40 shank. Not the prettiest but tested and works well.
70 degree dovetails cut on the shaper of course.



Each graduation moves it 0.02mm.
The arbor is a cut down horizontal milling arbor that was the wrong type form my support threaded M30*1, so I can't use it in reverse rotation.


----------



## JimDawson

Wow!  Nice job


----------



## chevydyl

Now that's cool


----------



## FOMOGO

Just ran through this, some very nice stuff being cranked out. Really liked the cyl head fixture. Mike


----------



## Ugluk

Proof of the pudding, since we all like things that moves and makes noise.




The workpiece is a forming die for the hydraulic press that I needed when making the tumblers for the quick change gear box and since it worked so well forming 20*20 to a 100mm radius. I figuered I'll use the boring head to add 80 and 60mm radii for future needs. It was a lot more work milling and filing out the first 100mm radius before I made the boring head.

0,020" doc, 81rpm and 27mm/min roughing feed.


----------



## Ugluk

A special T-nut. Not my idea but I've made a few of these and found them very useful whenever I find that I've blocked the t-slots and need to add a clamp to the setup. Goes in from the top and will only turn a quarter turn.


----------



## Ugluk

Boring bars with dedicated holders. I've no shortage of 6mm broken taps and dull endmills and found these makes excellent cutting tips for boring bars.
The bars are quick and easy to make with relatively few operations and not very critical setups.
	

		
			
		

		
	



Holds the bit very firmly yet allows the cutting tip to protrude in front of the bar for internal facing of blind holes.
My go to boring bars for pretty much all my boring.


----------



## Ugluk

A small project I did together with my 10yr old daughter. She's been nagging me for some time to be allowed to help me in the shop so we did this together from sketch to the finished and tested tools.
Two spring loaded tap guides, one with a 60* point and a smaller with a cup tip for the smallest taps made from drill rod and seamless tubing. I haven't been able to find any for sale around here, but they seem to be quite popular in america as the metal working youtubers use them all the time. I do too now.


----------



## Ugluk

Funds are low now with the house needing an addition so I stick to small useful stuff I need and already have materials for.
An indicator angle attachment of the type that seem so common in other parts of the world but I have never seen locally.
Some finicky turning, a bit of hand filing and other small scale operations but in the end a really simple little thing. 
It seems everytime I've indicated a hole in a part in the four jaw I've had to set the indicator at an angle and without fail had it knocked away by a jaw or som other protrusion, but no more!


----------



## Backwoods 96

terry_g said:


> *Re: Shop made tooling*
> 
> I needed a way to cut a key-way in a pulley that I had made for my mill.
> I dug through my scrap pile and this what I ended up with.
> I machined the body out and bored the hole slightly undersized.
> Once I got it mounted on the compound I centred it as best I could then
> I mounted a boring bar in the chuck and and finished the bore to size as best I could, then
> made up the bushings and pressed them in.The rest was pretty straight forward.
> 
> Terry
> 
> View attachment 35479
> View attachment 35480
> View attachment 35481
> View attachment 35482


Very nice, Great way to broach ------------


----------



## Skibo

Here's a little knurl holder I made for the sherline...next to it there is a tiny little set of trammels I made to try it out


----------



## MBuechle

An R-8 flycutter I made to use 1/4" lathe toolbits I have laying around.  They are China carbides but when ground seam to cut well.  Next to it is a piece of CR steel after a .050 cut.  This is a case of making a tool to make a tool as the ultimate goal here is to make a tangential tool holder for the AXA QCTP on my lathe.  Budget for tooling is extremely limited right now so I'm having to make do with what I have.



View attachment 218428


----------



## doc55

Here is a video of the air bearing I made for sharpening end mills.
I've sharpened end mills for a couple years with this set up now and works great yet.


----------



## MBuechle

Well I got my tangential tool holder built.  I took Jim2's design and scaled it down for my AXA tool post and 1/4" tool bits.  Haven't had a lot of opportunity to use it yet as it's currently 30 deg. in the hangar.  I want to get a cobalt bit for it. It does a great job facing.  I also rotated the bit 90 deg. to use as a shear bit and got a pretty nice finish on hot rolled steel.  I see this as being my work horse turning tool.


----------



## Superburban

Pretty slick how you cut the square hole.


----------



## MBuechle

Jim2 details how to do it.  You drill a hole for the back corner, then cut with a slitting saw & 1/8" end mill in one set up.  Quite ingenious, I wish I could take credit but I can't.


----------



## Reeltor

Just damn, you guys do good work!  

I'd be proud to have any of the tools in my cabinet

Mike


----------



## Mach89

So, at work, I have a job that requires cutting 0.030 radius grooves in some parts on the lathe. I don't know about y'all, but my fingers are too big to try to hold a piece of 1/8 inch hss anywhere near straight enough in a tool holder to get the set screws to clamp it down on a piece of 3/4 hss. I've done it with 1/4 but it seems to take forever to grind it to the required thickness without overheating it.
So, I decided to make a tool holder to accept 1/8 hss blanks. Grinding to thickness and the radius was much quicker than using bigger hss and it doesn't waste a bunch of tooling potential along the way. So here is my solution to MY problem. I'm sure it's not much to many of you, but any tool I make that works is a big deal to me.


----------



## just old al

Mach89 said:


> View attachment 228891
> 
> So, I decided to make a tool holder to accept 1/8 hss blanks. Grinding to thickness and the radius was much quicker than using bigger hss and it doesn't waste a bunch of tooling potential along the way. So here is my solution to MY problem. I'm sure it's not much to many of you, but any tool I make that works is a big deal to me.



I like that! 

OK, so basic construction is a slot for the 1/8 toolbit, then cut away at the fron to less than .125 thickness for support? Simple, elegant and blessedly rigid. That'd make a nice cutoff tool for less-rigid lathes, methinks.


----------



## MBuechle

Made a magnetic indicator holder for my Atlas lathe.


----------



## Mach89

just old al said:


> I like that!
> 
> OK, so basic construction is a slot for the 1/8 toolbit, then cut away at the fron to less than .125 thickness for support? Simple, elegant and blessedly rigid. That'd make a nice cutoff tool for less-rigid lathes, methinks.



Yeah, it's a pretty simple design. No major mind boggling thought went into it. For smaller stuff, it would be fine as a cutoff tool. You could probably get away with parting 1 1/4" diameter stuff, maybe slightly bigger. But if course you could make one to do larger if you wanted.


----------



## SteveJustSteve

MBuechle said:


> Well I got my tangential tool holder built.  I took Jim2's design and scaled it down for my AXA tool post and 1/4" tool bits.  Haven't had a lot of opportunity to use it yet as it's currently 30 deg. in the hangar.  I want to get a cobalt bit for it. It does a great job facing.  I also rotated the bit 90 deg. to use as a shear bit and got a pretty nice finish on hot rolled steel.  I see this as being my work horse turning tool.
> View attachment 186217
> 
> 
> View attachment 186218



I really like that tangential tool holder! That's on my short list for sure!


----------



## JohnG

There's an ongoing interest in tool rests for bench grinders.  I've played round with this one for a while, and people might find some of the details useful.
I use this to grind the blades of woodworking planes and HSS steel engine lathe tools except for acme thread tools.



The base cradle is a short piece of 5" channel iron with a large portion milled out of one end  leaving just 2 prongs to support the pivots which are 1/2" shoulder bolts through reamed holes in the base into counter bored holes in the steel table.
The angle of the table is set by a simple, eccentric half turn cam.  Turning the cam 180 degrees pivots the table through an arc of 30 degrees.  The adjustment lever passes through an oversized hole in a shaft collar, so tightening the knurled knob locks the camshaft in place to hold the angle.  By moving the base in or out and sometimes adding a shim to raise it, I can grind a tool angle from 0 degrees to 30 degrees.
The single carriage bolt and thumbscrew that holds the tool rest to the bench lets me pivot the rest slightly when I don't want to use the full width of the grinding wheel.  I like to do this for the last passes close to the edge when I'm sharpening older plane blades of thick, very hard carbon steel to avoid burning the edge.
The miter gauge pivots 45 degrees left and right.


There's an aluminum barrier and drip edge on the bottom of the aluminum slide set close to the steel table to keep coolant and grit from getting between them.  Most of it collects in the cut out quart oil bottle.
I had the brass cabinet pull lying around, so I screwed it on.  It's very comfortable and secure in my hand.


----------



## markknx

Radius cutter and a 5/8 transfer punch.


----------



## ddickey

Made a small tap wrench. Copied Mr. Pete pretty much. Will come in handy though for the small taps.


----------



## markknx

ddickey said:


> Made a small tap wrench. Copied Mr. Pete pretty much. Will come in handy though for the small taps.


how is the clamping jaw attached to the screw?


----------



## ddickey

Mr. Pete drilled and reamed the bore and loctited a small turned down piece in the end of the screw. I didn't see a reason for that so just turned down the end of the screw a bit.


----------



## BGHansen

Here’s a ball peen hammer I made with help from my dad when I was 10 or 11 years old.  He was a machine shop teacher who spent a lot of time after school and on weekends making instructional aids for the classes.  I got to tag along once in a while.

Nice back story for me is the lathe the hammer was made on.  My dad originally set up the shop at Waverly High School in Lansing, MI in 1962/63.  He went to the Kalamazoo, MI Clausing plant on a shopping trip for the initial set up of the shop.  One of the lathes he bought for the school was a Clausing 5418.  Pretty much no frills lathe as far as Clausing’s go:  no clutch, no L00 spindle (cheaper 2 ¼” x 8), manual speed changes with a step pulley on the motor and jack shaft. 

Waverly High School shut down their shop in 1987 and auctioned off their shop equipment.  I bid on and won that same lathe which now proudly sets in my shop.  Still use the ball peen hammer and lathe; our son knows the story and considers the Clausing his birth rite.

Bruce


----------



## hman

I especially like the caption on your first photo - "Got a kick out of my dad's face when he saw it in my shop for the first time"


----------



## chp

terry_g said:


> *Re: Shop made tooling*
> 
> I needed a way to cut a key-way in a pulley that I had made for my mill.
> I dug through my scrap pile and this what I ended up with.
> I machined the body out and bored the hole slightly undersized.
> Once I got it mounted on the compound I centred it as best I could then
> I mounted a boring bar in the chuck and and finished the bore to size as best I could, then
> made up the bushings and pressed them in.The rest was pretty straight forward.
> 
> Terry
> 
> View attachment 35479
> View attachment 35480
> View attachment 35481
> View attachment 35482


 I love this tool, do you have plans or measurements that you would share


----------



## hdskip

pictures of a largish leather punch and a small chasing hammer for engraving.


----------



## shootur44

chp said:


> I love this tool, do you have plans or measurements that you would share



Great job , would you share the plans or drawing to the project ? I am a newbie and can't just look at and make I still need drawings and measurements. Please help if possible ! 
Mike ( shootur44)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Buffalobull

Here is my version of a popular tool lots of guys make. Retracting threading tool. It works fantastic and is rock solid when in use.


----------



## Buffalobull

Over the years I have had the opportunity to use various styles of ball turners and never liked the jerky cutting they always seemed to create so here is my answer to eliminate that problem. The mechanical connection of the rotary table gives it a smooth cut and leaves a great surface finish and is simple to use and adjust for a consistent diameter over the coarse of various setups for the same part. My grandsons (ages  10and 12) are helping me make a set of chess pieces for our weekly chess game. I have them turning the balls for the pawn tops


----------



## extropic

Buffalobull said:


> Over the years I have had the opportunity to use various styles of ball turners and never liked the jerky cutting they always seemed to create so here is my answer to eliminate that problem. The mechanical connection of the rotary table gives it a smooth cut and leaves a great surface finish and is simple to use and adjust for a consistent diameter over the coarse of various setups for the same part. My grandsons (ages  10and 12) are helping me make a set of chess pieces for our weekly chess game. I have them turning the balls for the pawn tops



Both the threading tool and the ball turner look great. My favorite part is the project with the grandsons. Priceless!

Can you recommend that rotary table? If so do you know the brand/source?


----------



## Buffalobull

extropic said:


> Both the threading tool and the ball turner look great. My favorite part is the project with the grandsons. Priceless!



Thank you. Both of them love to play chess so we came up with this project. Was considering making one side out of aluminum and the other out of brass but will most likely make both out of aluminum and send them out and get them color anodized. They are really proud of themselves when they get done with the balls. Had to "babysit" them on the first few but after that they pretty much knew how to cut to the numbers I marked on the dials. Next time I have them set up I'll take some pictures of them. Being so young we do express safety...eye protection, loose clothing ect. One nice thing is the mandrel being in the collet chuck there isn't a spinning 3jaw to be extra concerned about


----------



## Buffalobull

extropic said:


> Both the threading tool and the ball turner look great. My favorite part is the project with the grandsons. Priceless!
> 
> Can you recommend that rotary table? If so do you know the brand/source?



 The rotary table was purchased off of ebay for around $70. It a 4" model although it could be adjusted to a larger one for a bigger lathe


----------



## Ulma Doctor




----------



## dfsmoto

Buffalobull said:


> Over the years I have had the opportunity to use various styles of ball turners and never liked the jerky cutting they always seemed to create so here is my answer to eliminate that problem. The mechanical connection of the rotary table gives it a smooth cut and leaves a great surface finish and is simple to use and adjust for a consistent diameter over the coarse of various setups for the same part. My grandsons (ages  10and 12) are helping me make a set of chess pieces for our weekly chess game. I have them turning the balls for the pawn tops


Now that's thinking!  I have been perplexed by the perfect ball turning design myself.  I'm going to have to go this route.


----------



## Elijah Durham

nicky said:


> *Re: Shop made tooling*
> 
> Here are a few items I have made over the last few years to help with projects both machine shop and automotive.
> The first is a floating die holder once featured in Home Shop Machinist. It also shows the thread dial I made for the lathe.
> 
> View attachment 35518
> 
> 
> The next picture shows a set of tools I made for assembling a Studebaker six engine.
> The 3 pieces on the left are for installing the camshaft timing gear, the slim tool in the centre for installing the wrist pin and connecting rod on the piston. I had no picture of the tool itself, just a photo in the service manual of it in a vice with pin, rod and piston mounted on it so I had to reverse engineer it from there. The set on the right are for installing the timing gear on the crankshaft. For the two timing gear installers we had drawings and specs for.
> 
> View attachment 35519
> View attachment 35520
> 
> 
> The next picture shows a set of press tools for replacing the control arm bushings on a Studebaker front suspension. For these parts the manual had good photos.
> 
> View attachment 35521
> 
> 
> The next picture shows the dies I made for the bead roller to put the channels in the floor panels for the Studebaker I am working on.
> 
> View attachment 35522
> 
> 
> The next picture shows the arbor I made to hold the gear cutter in my little Homier mill/drill
> 
> View attachment 35523
> View attachment 35524
> 
> 
> I guess that will do for now. Basically it boils down to if I need something and don't have one I make it with my limited bit of mainly self taught machine shop practice.
> Nick
> 
> View attachment 35518
> View attachment 35519
> View attachment 35520
> View attachment 35521
> View attachment 35522
> View attachment 35523
> View attachment 35524


Late in seeing these, but man you did a good job !! I love the Studebakers !


----------



## Buffalobull

Here is another of my shop projects....seems like my hobby is making tools
	

		
			
		

		
	







	

		
			
		

		
	
 for my hobby...lol. Anyway here is my adaptation of a lantern chuck. Instead of making from a solid piece of steel I used more of a modular system. The cross bar can be replaced in case of a mishap and made from different thicknesses for greater rigidity. It employs a half-nut for quick release and return and uses a bit adapter socket for the different screw heads


----------



## JimDawson

Buffalobull said:


> adaptation of a lantern chuck



Looks very cool, but what does it do?  Never heard of a ''lantern chuck'' before.  Can you show it in use?


----------



## Buffalobull

JimDawson said:


> Looks very cool, but what does it do?  Never heard of a ''lantern chuck'' before.  Can you show it in use?


Thanks for the question Jim...it is used to make different styles of custom screws or to do end work on them. In the first picture you can see how the screw is held with the shoulder of the head being pressed against the cross bar. I use it for making small screws for gunsmithing that are obsolete and hard to find


----------



## extropic

Very sophisticated design and nice craftsmanship.
I'm not sure what I'm looking at. Is that a D1-6 spindle? Also, does the tool seat in the ID taper of your spindle or ???


----------



## Buffalobull

extropic said:


> Very sophisticated design and nice craftsmanship.
> I'm not sure what I'm looking at. Is that a D1-6 spindle? Also, does the tool seat in the ID taper of your spindle or ???


Thank you for the kind words. It is D1-5 spindle and yes the tool seats into the lathes #5 morse spindle taper. Basically its a lot of tool to make small screws on...lol. I love to make all sorts of tooling apparatuses and machines for both my gunsmithing and knife making hobbies. Seems like more time is dedicated to the former than the latter 2....lmao


----------



## Buffalobull

I patterned this tool off of a design I saw on Homemadetools.net so I cannot take credit in anyway for the design other than my adaptation to a modular design. There are a few other designs on there also Thehomeengineer also has a short video showing him making some rivets on his article.


----------



## SteveJustSteve

Dovetail cutter I don't think I've posted here. Had to offset cutting edge from center to obtain clearance because of the insert I used but I have a ton of them so wanted more tooling for them and cutter still works very well.

Thanks


----------



## Moper361

Here are a few ite.s i have machined up over the years 
Radius tool and several arbors and morse tapper attachments


----------



## mcostello

This was given to Me, I did not make it. The point is from the days of used dental drills. Check out the date. Still used occasionally.


----------



## Superburban

mcostello said:


> This was given to Me, I did not make it. The point is from the days of used dental drills. Check out the date. Still used occasionally.


I like to find things like that, and have picked up several at yard sales, just because of someone putting their name on like that. Yet, I have an engraver, and do not personalize things I make. Guess I am two faced.


----------



## Yester5

Using Rudy Kouhoupt's plans, this is the adjustable angle plate I built for use on my mini-mill...


----------



## jumps4

This is a spindle mounted indicator holder designed by Stefan Gotteswinter  I made monday.
He is a very talented machinist in Germany with a Youtube channel.



			https://www.youtube.com/user/syyl
		


The plans are free, he just asks for recognition if you post them.
I also tries my hand at black oxide I found on Ebay cheap that seem to be easy to use and effective.

I ground the dovetail cutter on my d-bit grinder, and it worked perfect.

Thank you for viewing 
Steve









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----------



## jumps4

Today I Designed and built a Spindle clamp for my ZX45 mill that the Indicator holder fits into.
Steve


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## Tommie D

After many years of needing a V jaw for my four inch vise, I broke down and made one.  Made from a piece of 4142HT. So far it is holding up well. Someday when I get a heat treat oven and a surface grinder I will make a hardened one.


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## minendrews68

Out of curiosity,  how do you guys cut graduations in the parts you make?  Like the graduations above.


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## minendrews68

Ugluk said:


> 95mm boring head with an nt40 shank. Not the prettiest but tested and works well.
> 70 degree dovetails cut on the shaper of course.
> View attachment 120356
> View attachment 120357
> 
> Each graduation moves it 0.02mm.
> The arbor is a cut down horizontal milling arbor that was the wrong type form my support threaded M30*1, so I can't use it in reverse rotation.


Ok, I messed up the first time, I forgot that the new reply goes to the top.  This is the graduations I was referring to.  I would like to redo the graduation lines on my Craftsman lathe cross slide handles.


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## francist

One way is to take an HSS vee-shaped cutting tool and mount it on its side in your lathe tool holder. Then bring it up to just barely scribe the surface of the part (which would be mounted in the lathe). Then use either the carriage or compound to advance that vee-cutter along the work. Retract, advance the depth of cut a tad, repeat, etc until you get the depth you want. Depending on the type of lathe you have it can be a little tough going but with light cuts it’s usually possible. Just don’t overdo it by trying to take too much in one pass. Essentially you’re using the carriage on the lathe like a sideways shaper or key slotter.

Shaper is another way using the same type of cutter, but not everyone has a shaper to use. And then you can mill it with a small cutter or the corner of a cutter. Multiple ways to get there depending on what you have. For handwheel graduations the key would be a way to accurately index for the next graduation, but if the existing lines are still present and just need deepening you may be able to eyeball the alignment. I’d think carefully before doing it though, once done it cannot be reversed and a poorly graduated dial becomes kind of useless.


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## ddickey

You can make a fixture like this.


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## COMachinist

ddickey said:


> You can make a fixture like this.
> View attachment 368371


You have drawings of this by any chance? 
CH


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## ddickey

You can get the drawings here. They're very reasonable.





						Machine Tool Dial Making Fixture - HomemadeTools.net
					

This tool was made for the purpose of reproducing the manufactures original machine tool dials; it will also function as a dividing head for general



					www.homemadetools.net


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## Video_man

Couple of simple scribers, or What To Do With Scrap.  Small scriber is a broken 3/16 end mill sharpened and set in an AL drop.  The bigger scriber uses a couple pieces of leftover plate and a couple of dowel pins as guides.


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## duffman1278

3D printed a dial indicator for my 11" logan lathe bedways.


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## njblignaut

bedwards said:


> *Re: Shop made tooling*
> 
> They pale in comparison to yours and I've had some of these in other threads but here goes in order: hold down clamps made from thick walled pipe, 2 tool bit height gauges, threading stop and a handy run out indicator all to fit lampost tool holders, a group of brass hammers, a tool bit angle gauge for a Williams holder and last a tool post grinder.
> 
> View attachment 35346
> View attachment 35347
> View attachment 35348
> View attachment 35349
> View attachment 35350


I looks like a beefy motor. What power rating is it?


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## njblignaut

I have made an angle table for the mill


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