# Protecting & Maintaining Machined Surfaces



## louosten (Feb 22, 2016)

Gentlemen;

I am currently working on a drill press restoration, but would like some commentary on a more or less general subject, which is caring for machined surfaces. My most recent effort was in restoring the machined surface on the work table for this drill press. After using the usual rust removal techniques (steel wool, naval jelly, wash, repeat) I filled in the holes (arc of shame) with JB Weld, then restored the flat surface by filing and light use of emery cloth. The finishing touch was several applications of paste wax to prevent or retard rust formation:




I know some on-line woodworking sites that extol the virtues of paste wax on cast iron. Maybe there are other, better solutions to preserving finished surfaces. One product I have heard of, but am not necessarily endorsing, is a Zep item called Zepreserve. It was sprayed all over a Clausing Mill I purchased last year, and it really seemed to keep the rust off the metal until it was removed. It had a waxy consistency which I liked, and seemed to be good for the intended purpose.

Maybe you have a good procedure you use that you'd like to share...let the comments begin!


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## TOOLMASTER (Feb 22, 2016)

TREWAX.


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## Franko (Feb 22, 2016)

I never had any luck protecting iron from rust with any kind of wax or coat of oil. The best thing I discovered is to use a piece of MDF to cover the surface when I'm not using it. This has worked like a charm on my joiner bed and fence.


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## aliva (Feb 22, 2016)

For winter storage I oil my mill and lathe with ISO 32 or 64 hydraulic oil and then cover with saran wrap or equal.
Been working greart for several years


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## Bob Korves (Feb 22, 2016)

Been there, done that.  Move to where it is warm and dry rather than rainy and humid.  It makes the job of rustproofing a lot easier.  Noontime here today, sunny, 63F and 54% humidity.  Nothing is rusting...
8^)


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## brino (Feb 22, 2016)

I found the column on my drill press would darken and rust in my garage shop.
After a good clean-up I tried Bostik GlideCote:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=40952&cat=1,230,64343,64350

It works so well I've never bothered with anything else.
I also use it on my table saw, hand saws and planes.

I even found that my local hardware store now carries it......

-brino


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## TLW (Feb 22, 2016)

Battling winter weather here in Wisconsin is never an easy task. I have used Zep Preserve with good success but its not the "be all  end all" of solutions. It works IF you literally don't touch the machine.If you do, forget it. The only real solution to your problem is *heat*. Keep the shop heated all winter and your machines will look like new forever. I know, its expensive, not practical for a lot of folks and probably not going to happen but....I'm just say'n that's what works every time. all the time.
   Now, other than keeping your shop heated you can try covering everything after coating it with a good moisture barrier like ZEP or  GlideCote or any of the other products out there. Just don't mess with them after you do! The problem is condensation the air gets warm and moisture laden hits the cold iron and condenses, creating rust. You gotta break that cycle some how.
   That's about all you can do other than clean the stuff in Spring and enjoy. Hope this helps although probably not.


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## itsme_Bernie (Feb 22, 2016)

Taking TLW's idea  step to the side, a 60w light bulb in the base of each machine, or two depending on the machine, keep the machine just enough-warmer than the surrounding environment to prevent the slow condensation that rusts.  
Adding a moving blanket is total protection, with just normal lube.
Add a tarp to this system, and you can leave a machine OUTSIDE all winter.


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## pebbleworm (Feb 22, 2016)

Decades ago I was told  to heat a cast iron table up with a blowtorch until it was too hot to touch, and then paint on some motor oil and keep heating it until it starts to smoke.  Let it cool, wipe off the excess and then heat it again. Let it cool, wipe it off and then give it a good coat of paste wax.  I did this with a tablesaw, bandsaw and drill press that I pretty much abandoned in an unheated Iowa basement- it usually stays above freezing, but not by much.  Summers it is definitely damp down there.  20 years later they are still rust free.  The rationale was that the heat "opens up the pores" in the cast iron so it can absorb the oil.  I cannot say if that is really the case, but the tables are still rust free.


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## ARKnack (Feb 22, 2016)

What pebbleworm said is basically the same as seasoning cast iron cook ware. Should work. I may have to try it.  The reason for using wax on wood chucking machines is wax leaves a very thin coating that won't transfer to the wood. Any transfer can screw up wood finishing. Also wax helps wood slide across the table top. For my wood tools I use wax. For metal working I just use WD40. I apply it liberally and often. It's cheap and works well. Oil doesn't hurt metal. If I have a machine that isn't used often, I will use better stuff. Like bio shied t9 or other waxy sprays. Check marine boating forums. They review rust preventatives often.


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## utterstan (Feb 22, 2016)

all I ever ure is wd 40 and then when it starts to rust fine steel wool.lol


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## utterstan (Feb 22, 2016)

oops that should read....use ... lol


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## Andre (Feb 23, 2016)

TOOLMASTER said:


> TREEWAX.


I use the same and have recommended it many times before. It's the stuff to use.


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## TLW (Feb 24, 2016)

ARKnack said:


> What pebbleworm said is basically the same as seasoning cast iron cook ware. Should work. I may have to try it.  The reason for using wax on wood chucking machines is wax leaves a very thin coating that won't transfer to the wood. Any transfer can screw up wood finishing. Also wax helps wood slide across the table top. For my wood tools I use wax. For metal working I just use WD40. I apply it liberally and often. It's cheap and works well. Oil doesn't hurt metal. If I have a machine that isn't used often, I will use better stuff. Like bio shied t9 or other waxy sprays. Check marine boating forums. They review rust preventatives often.



   Seasoning  cast iron cook ware is a little different. You clean the piece. I put it in the oven and run a  self clean cycle, works great. After the piece is clean you coat it with a thin film of oil and put it back in the oven at about 400 degrees F. The process can be repeated of few times to build up a thicker finish. What you are doing is turning the oil to a carbon coating. That's what makes the piece black and non stick. There are some good YouTubes on the subject if interested.


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## TLW (Feb 24, 2016)

itsme_Bernie said:


> Taking TLW's idea  step to the side, a 60w light bulb in the base of each machine, or two depending on the machine, keep the machine just enough-warmer than the surrounding environment to prevent the slow condensation that rusts.
> Adding a moving blanket is total protection, with just normal lube.
> Add a tarp to this system, and you can leave a machine OUTSIDE all winter.



   I like this idea and will give it a try. Its certainly a lot cheaper to run a few light bulbs than to heat the entire shop. Plus you get the added benefit of keeping the machines clean under a blanket.


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## John Hasler (Feb 24, 2016)

louosten said:


> Gentlemen;
> 
> I am currently working on a drill press restoration, but would like some commentary on a more or less general subject, which is caring for machined surfaces. My most recent effort was in restoring the machined surface on the work table for this drill press. After using the usual rust removal techniques (steel wool, naval jelly, wash, repeat) I filled in the holes (arc of shame) with JB Weld, then restored the flat surface by filing and light use of emery cloth. The finishing touch was several applications of paste wax to prevent or retard rust formation:
> 
> ...


Cast iron I pickle in phosphoric acid, rinse carefully so as to not remove the phosphate, dry  thoroughly, coat with linseed oil, and sun dry.  Pretty much immune to rust even in my unheated Wisconsin shop.  Works on steel but not quite as well.  Ways and other running surfaces I just try to keep oiled.


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## The Liberal Arts Garage (Feb 26, 2016)

Look in the high- end wood - working  catalogue for saw table wax.......BLJHB.


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## Zoltan (Feb 27, 2016)

I'm a fan of CorrosionX as it sticks to the metal and provides good long term protection. It was originally developed to protect the structure of aircraft and is still used for that all the time.


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## RodSME (Feb 27, 2016)

I live in sunny, humid south Florida.  My shop is in my garage and while I have AC when I'm working in there, most of the time there's no AC.  I have been using a product called Ospho for years.  It is not a coating or wax.  It is a conversion process.  You just brush it on and let it sit for about a half hour and then wipe off with clean paper towels.  The iron or steel turns dark gray.  If the surface is slightly rusty, I use Scotch-brite wetted with Ospho to clean the surface rust off.  If its really rusty, you can use it on the rust, but it still looks pretty rough.  This stuff converts the ferrous surface from iron oxide to iron phosphate.  The iron phosphate is not porous like rust, so it prevents rust from forming.  It's not perfect, but it sure beats having rusty tools.  I even use it on my hand tools.  If rust forms, I just redo the treatment.  Make sure you wear nitrile gloves and eye protection.  I've had a quart bottle for years and think I bought it at an auto paint supply store, but Amazon has it for about $10/Qt.


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## John Hasler (Feb 27, 2016)

RodSME said:


> I live in sunny, humid south Florida.  My shop is in my garage and while I have AC when I'm working in there, most of the time there's no AC.  I have been using a product called Ospho for years.  It is not a coating or wax.  It is a conversion process.  You just brush it on and let it sit for about a half hour and then wipe off with clean paper towels.  The iron or steel turns dark gray.  If the surface is slightly rusty, I use Scotch-brite wetted with Ospho to clean the surface rust off.  If its really rusty, you can use it on the rust, but it still looks pretty rough.  This stuff converts the ferrous surface from iron oxide to iron phosphate.  The iron phosphate is not porous like rust, so it prevents rust from forming.  It's not perfect, but it sure beats having rusty tools.  I even use it on my hand tools.  If rust forms, I just redo the treatment.  Make sure you wear nitrile gloves and eye protection.  I've had a quart bottle for years and think I bought it at an auto paint supply store, but Amazon has it for about $10/Qt.


Phosphoric acid.  I get it for about $10/gallon at the farm store.


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## thumper144 (Feb 27, 2016)

Did a quick internet search for treewax.....mostly beauty products came up, what exactly should I be looking for? Also, when applying this, does the machine need to be free of any oils? Any other tips would be appreciated.


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## louosten (Feb 29, 2016)

Not 100% sure, but I think "Treewax" = Trewax


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## thumper144 (Feb 29, 2016)

OK...thank you.  Didn't realize I was looking for a brand.  Seems to be a carnuba wax.


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## gi_984 (Mar 1, 2016)

I use and recommend Boeshield T-9.  Developed by Boeing to protect airplane parts from rusting during long term storage.  Spray on and let dry.


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## Mondo (Mar 3, 2016)

For seasonal storage all you need is to keep the bare surface protected from exposure to the atmosphere.  I have had good results just coating smooth dry and oil-free surfaces with masking tape.  A heat gun or hair drier is helpful for removing the tape in the spring.

Spiral_Chips


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## uncle harry (Mar 3, 2016)

John Hasler said:


> Phosphoric acid.  I get it for about $10/gallon at the farm store.



It's often labeled as Milk Stone Remover so apparently food safe.


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## RodSME (Mar 9, 2016)

John,

I'm about out of the quart of Ospho I mentioned in my post.  You said you got phosphoric acid at the farm store.  We finally have a Tractor Supply in the area and I checked their web-site, but they didn't have phosphoric acid listed.  What farm store has the stuff?

Thanks,

Rod


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## uncle harry (Mar 9, 2016)

RodSME said:


> John,
> 
> I'm about out of the quart of Ospho I mentioned in my post.  You said you got phosphoric acid at the farm store.  We finally have a Tractor Supply in the area and I checked their web-site, but they didn't have phosphoric acid listed.  What farm store has the stuff?
> 
> ...




Tractor supply has a product for cleaning dairy equipment used in milk production.  You might try searching words like dairy, milk etc, It has a phosphoric acid content.


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## John Hasler (Mar 9, 2016)

RodSME said:


> We finally have a Tractor Supply in the area and I checked their web-site, but they didn't have phosphoric acid listed. What farm store has the stuff?


http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/dairyland-sterosol-milkstone-remover-acid-rinse-1-gal


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## RodSME (Mar 9, 2016)

John,

Thanks,

Rod


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## ericc (Mar 10, 2016)

It is remarkable how little rust it takes to ruin a precision flat surface.  Best not to let it take hold.  Used or handled tools do not rust as quickly.  I have a forged keychain which will never rust.  It will wear away first.


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## John Hasler (Mar 10, 2016)

RodSME said:


> John,
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Rod


I usually dilute the stuff I buy locally (different brand) about 4:1 and leave the part in overnight.  Heating the solution to near boiling reportedly reduces the time to about 15 minutes and produces a better finish but I haven't tried that yet.  I then rinse the part carefully so as to not disturb the phosphate coating, let it air dry, apply a thin coat of linseed oil, and then hang the part in the sun for the linseed oil to set up.


ericc said:


> It is remarkable how little rust it takes to ruin a precision flat surface.  Best not to let it take hold.  Used or handled tools do not rust as quickly.  I have a forged keychain which will never rust.  It will wear away first.


I wouldn't use phosphoric acid on a precision flat surface unless it was just to strip off heavy rust before refinishing.


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## uncle harry (Mar 10, 2016)

John Hasler said:


> I usually dilute the stuff I buy locally (different brand) about 4:1 and leave the part in overnight.  Heating the solution to near boiling reportedly reduces the time to about 15 minutes and produces a better finish but I haven't tried that yet.  I then rinse the part carefully so as to not disturb the phosphate coating, let it air dry, apply a thin coat of linseed oil, and then hang the part in the sun for the linseed oil to set up.
> 
> I wouldn't use phosphoric acid on a precision flat surface unless it was just to strip off heavy rust before refinishing.



That's where Evapo Rust is champion.


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## louosten (Mar 10, 2016)

EvapoRust is great for many applications, especially for small, uniform parts that fit in a bucket. It is relatively expensive in comparison with other methods, especially for non-uniform and large parts. I use Naval Jelly frequently because it is inexpensive and lends itself to mostly any size and shape that requires cleaning. Due to its jelly-like, brush on nature, you don't necessarily have to coat the entire part in question to restore an accurately machined surface.

When I acquired this drill press, it was pretty rusty:




The column was obviously a precision surface that needed to be cleaned and restored; I considered an EvapoRust bath, but couldn't locate a long, slender tub for my purposes, so I fashioned the following (cheap) set-up:




Two 5 gallon buckets, an old shop broom, and Wifey's discarded liberal newspaper to catch the drippings! After 10 cycles of soapy wash, wire brush, and Naval Jelly, I had a pretty clean column:




This obviously facilitated a smoothly operating machine:




I chose not to repaint everything just yet, but to restore the drill press to full functionality. So far, the 'Old Iron' has lived up to its deserved reputation!


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