# PM 1340GT delivery and setup



## advmaker (Dec 18, 2020)

After months of wait, my PM 1340GT finally arrived today. Driveway is slightly sloped and was icy so it was quite an effort together with the delivery person. My own pallet jack was of great help. As our feet slipped, I used a map torch to melt ice to get traction, then figured to just put some scrap steel down to use like a crampon.

I will use this thread to share the process of building a table and moving to my garage.


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## DavidR8 (Dec 18, 2020)

NLD! 
(New lathe day )
Well done and congratulations. Be careful moving your new baby!


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## NCjeeper (Dec 18, 2020)

Perfect size. You can do a lot with that.


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## Aukai (Dec 18, 2020)

Was yours on the November arrival shipment? I'm still waiting for mine that was on that shipment, exciting times.....


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## advmaker (Dec 18, 2020)

Aukai said:


> Was yours on the November arrival shipment? I'm still waiting for mine that was on that shipment, exciting times.....


Yes. I tracked the seaspan ganges ship and it was fun to see it pass near my home country (India).

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## advmaker (Dec 18, 2020)

Could not wait to uncrate! How to get this brown thing off?

It is sitting in front of my garage. The plan is to make a steel table with the help of the dimension of the drip pan. Of course the legs will have enough spread from front to back. Then will lift it from headstock side using 2ton engine hoist and slide in the table. The table will have cross bars lengthwise at the bottom so I can move the whole thing using pallet jack. And then wiring will be another episode, got the vfd already, yet to dig in for the instructions.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




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## Aukai (Dec 18, 2020)

WD40 among other things will melt the brown


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## Steve R (Dec 19, 2020)

How to get this brown thing off?

When I got my TL1440 & PM949TS I used some WD40 then tried some "mineral spirits". Mineral spirits work far better for me. On the lead screw I used a few pieces of tee shirt material in about 1 inch wide strips. When you pull on it narrows up and pulls into the grooves, that worked pretty good. Mine arrived toward the end of Oct. and was pretty cool outside. After working on the cleaning for few hours went to convenience store to get a drink and came back. When I walked back in the garage it was like WOOHH, that was a STRONG smell. I had to open the doors. Being in it from the start, didn't realize how bad it was until I left and came back. Also using a piece of plastic like a credit card or decal squeegee works wonders and doesn't scratch any of the surfaces.


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## mikey (Dec 19, 2020)

Now that is a really nice lathe - congrats, advmaker!

Aukai be drooling!


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## advmaker (Dec 19, 2020)

Steve R said:


> How to get this brown thing off?
> 
> When I got my TL1440 & PM949TS is used some WD40 then tried some "mineral spirits". Mineral spirits work far better for me. On the lead screw I used a few pieces of tee shirt material in about 1 inch wide strips. When you pull on it narrows up and pulls into the grooves, that worked pretty good. Mine arrived toward the end of Oct. and was pretty cool outside. After working on the cleaning for few hours went to convenience store to get a drink and came back. When I walked back in the garage it was like WOOHH, that was a STRONG smell. I had to open the doors. Being in it from the start, didn't realize how bad it was until I left and came back. Also using a piece of plastic like a credit card or decal squeegee works wonders and doesn't scratch any of the surfaces.


Great input, thanks a lot.

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## wrmiller (Dec 19, 2020)

Nice lathe! 

(of course I'm biased as I've owned one for about 6 years now...)


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## Just for fun (Dec 19, 2020)

Nice lathe man!   Congrats!

Tim


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## Dabbler (Dec 19, 2020)

@advmaker If it is really tough I use nail polish remover.  Not the pure acetone kind, which is mucho expensive, but the moderated stuff with some oil in it...  It works great on the stubborn stuff that has dried on, and won't come off with mineral spirits.  If that doesn't work, then paint grade acetone which is cents on the dollar....


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## .LMS. (Dec 19, 2020)

Careful with the acetone - it removes paint too.    Ask me how I know....


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## Titanium Knurler (Dec 19, 2020)

This stuff works really well; got it from Grizzly.

Congratulations on your new lathe!


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## advmaker (Dec 22, 2020)

Table build is underway.
Requirements: Both a pallet jack and engine hoist should be able to get under it. So there will be 2" tubing lengthwise on the legs about 7.5" above ground.





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## Just for fun (Dec 23, 2020)

Looks like you are going to have a nice table!


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## advmaker (Dec 23, 2020)

Fabrication done, lathe goes on it tomorrow.


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## wrmiller (Dec 24, 2020)

How do you ensure that the tailstock end is at the exact same height, and level (no twist) with the headstock end? Or do you just shim the lathe once on the stand? Just curious as I once had dreams of having a TIG welder setup and considered doing what you're doing.


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## advmaker (Dec 24, 2020)

I have leveling feet (the yellow thing in the previous picture). Will that not be sufficient?


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## Janderso (Dec 24, 2020)

Ah, I may be out numbered here but those vibration dampers aren't designed to be used on lathes.
You want a rigid mount.
Someone more experienced will be along.


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## advmaker (Dec 24, 2020)

Oh darn, I have already accounted for the height of the leveling feet. Let me see how it turns out.

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## wrmiller (Dec 24, 2020)

advmaker said:


> I have leveling feet (the yellow thing in the previous picture). Will that not be sufficient?



I honestly don't know. The leveling feet will help of course, but if the two mounting areas for the lathe are not on the same plane the stand can induce twist in the lathe bed when it is bolted down to the stand. Unless shims are used of course.

With a two-piece stand, each stand can be 'leveled' individually for any variances in height and tilt in the mounting surfaces where the lathe bolts to the stand. I'm not sure how that works with a one piece stand? And I'm not sure that I'm not just chasing windmills here either. 

I'm sure more knowledgeable folks will chime in here. Maybe after Christmas.


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## advmaker (Dec 24, 2020)

Ah I see. I guess after I use the leveling feet to stabilize the table I have to check for bed twist and accordingly shim under tailstock end. Thanks.

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## Jim F (Dec 24, 2020)

advmaker said:


> Ah I see. I guess after I use the leveling feet to stabilize the table I have to check for bed twist and accordingly shim under tailstock end. Thanks.
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk


Yes, that is how it needs done.
height difference between headstock and tailstock is not an issue, the bed can be at a 45 deg angle and still work.
The bed twist is what needs adjusted.


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## Pcmaker (Dec 24, 2020)

This is the lathe I'll be buying in the future


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## rogerl (Dec 24, 2020)

I really think that you need to make sure you do not pull the bed of the lathe down to a frame that is not flat or has a twist to it. If it were me I would set the lathe on the stand and take some feeler gauges and see how flat things are. If there are any gaps I would put shims in to fill the gap. Then I would bolt the lathe to the stand. From there I would use the leveling feet to do the final adjusting. The ultimate would be to have the top of the frame machined.

Just my 2 cents
Roger L


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## Aukai (Dec 24, 2020)

Mine is ready for shipping, I was told that 4 containers are sold out to about May for the 1340GT. So if you have the deposit, and can get the full amount by then, you may want to put a down for reservations.


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## advmaker (Dec 24, 2020)

Thanks Roger for the tips. I will report back. Definitely not going to bolt the table to floor though.

I wonder how this large is so much in demand. Good sign overall that more people are getting into doing stuff in the country.

I have finally rigged up the lathe, the hairiest part would now be to put it on the table.






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## Janderso (Dec 24, 2020)

Your lathe is the perfect hobby size.
You are gonna love it!!


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## Tozguy (Dec 24, 2020)

Just a thought but removing the tail stock and compound slide would lighten the load a bit. And avoid damage if something goes amuck.


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## advmaker (Dec 24, 2020)

Hardest part is finally over!!!










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## advmaker (Dec 24, 2020)

Tozguy said:


> Just a thought but removing the tail stock and compound slide would lighten the load a bit. And avoid damage if something goes amuck.


The manual showed pics with both in place so I didn't remove...

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## advmaker (Dec 24, 2020)

I had just the exact space for it!









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## Jim F (Dec 24, 2020)

advmaker said:


> Thanks Roger for the tips. I will report back. Definitely not going to bolt the table to floor though.
> 
> I wonder how this large is so much in demand. Good sign overall that more people are getting into doing stuff in the country.
> 
> ...





advmaker said:


> Thanks Roger for the tips. I will report back. Definitely not going to bolt the table to floor though.
> 
> I wonder how this large is so much in demand. Good sign overall that more people are getting into doing stuff in the country.
> 
> ...


Your lathe is probably rigid enough, but South Bend said their lathes should be bolted to the floor.


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## advmaker (Dec 24, 2020)

I noticed there is no 0.7 and 0.8 mm metric thread option. There is 0.75. so I can't do those threads then?

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## Jim F (Dec 24, 2020)

advmaker said:


> I noticed there is no 0.7 and 0.8 mm metric thread option. There is 0.75. so I can't do those threads then?
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk


I have never seen a 0.7 or.08 thread.
All the metric I have seen are in .25 increments.


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## advmaker (Dec 24, 2020)

Jim F said:


> I have never seen a 0.7 or.08 thread.
> All the metric I have seen are in .25 increments.


Then what about M4-0.7, M5-0.8 screws?

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## Jim F (Dec 24, 2020)

advmaker said:


> Then what about M4-0.7, M5-0.8 screws?
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk


I was just a Ford wrench turner, so I only know the the common Metric they used,


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## Jim F (Dec 24, 2020)

I did once have to do 4-80 threads, that is another story.


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## advmaker (Dec 24, 2020)

Found it from another thread. C6 gear gives 0.75 with 40t and 30t gears. Replacing the 30t with 32t will give the 0.8 ratio for C6. Don't yet know for 0.7.

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## mksj (Dec 24, 2020)

There is a metric 0.7 pitch, as well as a few others not on the 1340GT chart. You need to contact QMT about additional change gears (32, 35) specific for these metric threads. I also would recommend switching out the lathe feet to hard metal swivel feet, the rubber isolating ones are fine for mills but on a lathe the bed leveling will continue to drift. Been there, done that.





						Steel Level-It™ (Stud Style, Inch) | S&W Manufacturing
					






					www.swmanufacturing.com


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## advmaker (Dec 27, 2020)

All set. Although could not figure out how to install the bxa QCTP.

Beyond thrilled to finally have this running!












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## Aukai (Dec 27, 2020)

If I may suggest, close the gap between the chip tray, and table edge, then put some kind of rod, and drape to keep swarf out of the lower shelf. My wife has adjustable rods, and short drapes she got for the kitchen windows, maybe that could work for you too.


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## advmaker (Dec 27, 2020)

Aukai said:


> If I may suggest, close the gap between the chip tray, and table edge, then put some kind of rod, and drape to keep swarf out of the lower shelf. My wife has adjustable rods, and short drapes she got for the kitchen windows, maybe that could work for you too.


Perfect idea for the drape. I anyway will put a narrow plywood strip between chip tray and take edge.

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## Downunder Bob (Dec 27, 2020)

*Nice lathe, As has been said before the relative height of tail stock and head stock ends is not important  but make sure you don't induce a twist in the lathe.*

When I set up my lathe a 12x16 new 4 years ago, I made a similar frame to yours and used both hold down bolts and jacking screws to join the lathe to the bed. I also used jacking screws on the frame to the floor with metal plates under them, but no hold-down bolts. worked out perfectly.

My frame sat directly on the floor without legs as my lathe came with twin cabinets as a stand. The cabinets had provision on the base for both the hold down bolts and the jacking screws..


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## tjb (Dec 27, 2020)

That's a great lathe and an excellent step-by-step write-up on the installation.  I'm sure many will benefit from your pictorial presentation.

Congratulations.


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## advmaker (Dec 27, 2020)

Do I have to machine the PM QCTP base to fit the T-slot on the compound? It does not seem plug and play. I have a 30MV mill but how can someone without a mill do it?

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## .LMS. (Dec 27, 2020)

advmaker said:


> Do I have to machine the PM QCTP base to fit the T-slot on the compound? It does not seem plug and play. I have a 30MV mill but how can someone without a mill do it?


They should have sent you the base that fits.   Same thing happened to me - ordered the BXA QCTP, and it came without the t-slot base.   I called and they said they'd send one, but it took a while to get to me.   They also hinted that if I had a mill I could make one, but I don't so they made one there and sent it to me, but it was a couple weeks all told.


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## Jim F (Dec 27, 2020)

Usually needs fitted to the lathe.


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## advmaker (Dec 27, 2020)

.LMS. said:


> They should have sent you the base that fits. Same thing happened to me - ordered the BXA QCTP, and it came without the t-slot base. I called and they said they'd send one, but it took a while to get to me. They also hinted that if I had a mill I could make one, but I don't so they made one there and sent it to me, but it was a couple weeks all told.


Good to know. Let me see if they can send one otherwise I will machine it.

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## advmaker (Dec 27, 2020)

First project to keep the SO happy, ofcourse. Made her a simple automation to wind her yarns which she was doing manually, takes quite a lot of time. I am beyond thrilled with the smooth cuts I am getting from an old carbide cutter.

I am holding an aluminum washer which I made later to reduce friction. For higher friction I just take out that washer so the wood slides on the larger steel ring.













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## V35B (Dec 27, 2020)

It’s always exiting to get new machines. My 1340 GT came in on the 10th, and I haven’t used my old Hendey since. I also ordered the quick ch ange post and it came with no t-slot. I have thought about machining the base or maybe just threading a different bolt to screw into the existing t slot in place of the one that is there.


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## Jim F (Dec 27, 2020)

So what is the QCTP issue ?


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## V35B (Dec 27, 2020)

Jim F said:


> So what is the QCTP issue ?



On the QCTP they sent, the bottom plate is solid, and cannot be inserted into the T Slot on the compound. The stud that came with it has different threads than what the lathe does. I can make some parts to get it going, but I did not expect to have to.


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## Jim F (Dec 27, 2020)

All the QCTP I have seen, the T-Nut needs machined to the slot in the compound.


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## V35B (Dec 27, 2020)

That is probably the case.


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## Jim F (Dec 27, 2020)

Mine was not a T-nut, it has a piece of flat tapped.


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## Downunder Bob (Dec 28, 2020)

Likewise mine arrived as a thick piece of flat I presume MS. With a hole tapped in the middle to suit the tool post spindle. They are always made oversize so you can machine it down to fit any lathe. I do not have a mill so I machined it in my lathe. 

Setting the plate up in the chuck with one long side against the chuck face. I then faced off half the amount I needed to take off from one edge, then turning it over, removed the same amount from the opposite edge. The plate is now narrow enough to fit the wider part of the "T: slot ,with a few thou clearance

Then threading the plate onto the threaded post, I set the post up in the chuck, tightened the plate against the chuck. and turned down a short section of the plate so that the turned dia is a good fit, with a few thou clearance. in the narrow width of the slot and the wider piece at the back is also a slight clearance in the depth of the wider slot. Finally reduce the thickness of the smaller dia part to be about 0.010" less than the depth of the narrow top part of the slot. Remove from chuck, break all sharp corners, remove the plate from the post and replace it the other way so it's facing the right way. Screw the plate onto the post very tightly and if any protrudes through the bottom Face it off.

Now you are ready to remove the old tool post and fit the new one. Make sure that the post and plate are slightly loose in the "T" slot before tightening the top nut. If the post bolt is allowed to screw down onto the base of the slot it can break the compound slide and or the "T" slot, likewise if the top of the "T" nut can rise above the top of the compound slide it will cause the tool post block to seat on it rather than the top surface of the compound slide and it will not be as secure and ridged as it should be,.

Pretty easy really, good luck.


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## ArmyDoc (Dec 28, 2020)

Downunder Bob said:


> Likewise mine arrived as a thick piece of flat I presume MS. With a hole tapped in the middle to suit the tool post spindle. They are always made oversize so you can machine it down to fit any lathe. I do not have a mill so I machined it in my lathe.
> 
> Setting the plate up in the chuck with one long side against the chuck face. I then faced off half the amount I needed to take off from one edge, then turning it over, removed the same amount from the opposite edge. The plate is now narrow enough to fit the wider part of the "T: slot ,with a few thou clearance
> 
> ...



Ok, I get the first part, to narrow the width of the plate to the widest part of the "T" slot, and it sounds like the first line of the second paragraph is decreasing the thickness of the of the plate to the height of the "T" slot, but how did you decrease the width of the plate to fit the narrow part of the "T"?  I know how I would do it on a mill, but not sure how to do it on lathe.  I guess you could mount a cutter in the spindle, then mount the plate to the cross slide and slide it across?


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## Downunder Bob (Dec 28, 2020)

ArmyDoc said:


> Ok, I get the first part, to narrow the width of the plate to the widest part of the "T" slot, and it sounds like the first line of the second paragraph is decreasing the thickness of the of the plate to the height of the "T" slot, but how did you decrease the width of the plate to fit the narrow part of the "T"?  I know how I would do it on a mill, but not sure how to do it on lathe.  I guess you could mount a cutter in the spindle, then mount the plate to the cross slide and slide it across?


You just turn it down like I described There is no reason why it can't be round, the bottom part registers in the wider part of the slot, the top part just gives it more thickness so it's stronger.


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## advmaker (Dec 28, 2020)

Excellent tips, Bob. Especially the part to make sure there is enough clearance below the machined base so that the protruding post bolt can't break the t slot or the compound. Maybe I can face the bottom of post bolt to be flush with the base?

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## zmotorsports (Dec 28, 2020)

Congrats on the lathe.  You're gonna love that PM1340GT.  I still grin every time I spin mine up as it is such a joy to run.

Also noticed you are a Utahn as well.

Mike


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## qualitymachinetools (Dec 28, 2020)

If you ordered the tool post with the lathe, I can send you a machined T nut if you need it, I just did a run of them on one of our CNC Mills, just email us can let me know who you are.


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## advmaker (Dec 28, 2020)

qualitymachinetools said:


> If you ordered the tool post with the lathe, I can send you a machined T nut if you need it, I just did a run of them on one of our CNC Mills, just email us can let me know who you are.


Thanks, I am already in touch with tech support, they will send me a slot. But I will anyway try to machine the flat piece to learn.

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## V35B (Dec 28, 2020)

qualitymachinetools said:


> If you ordered the tool post with the lathe, I can send you a machined T nut if you need it, I just did a run of them on one of our CNC Mills, just email us can let me know who you are.


Sounds good, I appreciate it. I will send an email.


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## advmaker (Dec 28, 2020)

Whew, my first real milling project. Learnt a bunch. Also made mistake of not tightening y axis on mill so there is 0.05" unnecessary gap at bottom. Made sure that top of T nut is slightly recessed from the compound surface so QCTP is sitting tight.

Btw what is the difference between 201 and 202 tool holders?









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## Jim F (Dec 28, 2020)

201 takes square tool holders,202 takes square holders and boring bars.


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## advmaker (Dec 28, 2020)

Jim F said:


> 201 takes square tool holders,202 takes square holders and boring bars.


Thanks, I just checked again and saw a small v groove on the 202.

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## Aukai (Dec 29, 2020)

Thanks for checking in Matt


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## Downunder Bob (Dec 29, 2020)

advmaker said:


> Whew, my first real milling project. Learnt a bunch. Also made mistake of not tightening y axis on mill so there is 0.05" unnecessary gap at bottom. Made sure that top of T nut is slightly recessed from the compound surface so QCTP is sitting tight.
> 
> Btw what is the difference between 201 and 202 tool holders?
> 
> ...



Well done, good job.


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## advmaker (Jan 3, 2021)

So the compound had one holding nut broken when I got the lathe. PM said they will send some down the line but I could not wait as I was getting chatter doing concave radius with large tool contact.

So at first I tig welded the broken but, sanded and also ran a m8-1.25 tap through it to clear any obstruction. But then I could not figure out how to insert that nut without needing to get the cross slide out from back. It seemed like I needed to get the back cover of the lathe out, way too much work. So I built a round nut that I can insert from top through the opening. It went well but then I realized nothing is stopping that nut from spinning so could not tighten. Then I tig welded a small flange to one side, lol. Seems to work well now but I wonder what the correct process is to insert a proper nut.











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