# TECO VFD help please



## Que (Dec 30, 2012)

well I mounted motor and using the TECO JNEV-101-H1. here are the problems (so far); first now when I start in up it jogs backwards. I have to stop it and then run again and now it goes forward. this didn't happen when I simply had it wired and unmounted. second problem is that I have a DPDT switch wired up for the fwd/rvs but I guess I don't quite understand how to program it and this has not worked as of yet.

I plan on putting a SPST switch on the common of the fwd/rvs switch to be able to turn off the pwr to the motor. seeing how yesterday was spent testing the basic setup and tearing apart the G0602 lathe and today was church and trying to get it all going I haven't been able to play with it too much. plan on doing the 10k pot to vary speed remotely if I get the rest figured out. any help and suggestions would be appreciated.


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## Ray C (Dec 30, 2012)

I don't quite understand your setup.  If you could sketch the schematic and post a photo, it would help us understand.

Something to note...  You should not put any type of switch in-between the VFD and motor.  VFD's are constant-current devices and when you suddenly open the circuit to the load it is supplying power to, it causes havoc with the internal IGBT.

EDIT:  Fixed typo.




Que said:


> well I mounted motor and using the TECO JNEV-101-H1. here are the problems (so far); first now when I start in up it jogs backwards. I have to stop it and then run again and now it goes forward. this didn't happen when I simply had it wired and unmounted. second problem is that I have a DPDT switch wired up for the fwd/rvs but I guess I don't quite understand how to program it and this has not worked as of yet.
> 
> I plan on putting a SPST switch on the common of the fwd/rvs switch to be able to turn off the pwr to the motor. seeing how yesterday was spent testing the basic setup and tearing apart the G0602 lathe and today was church and trying to get it all going I haven't been able to play with it too much. plan on doing the 10k pot to vary speed remotely if I get the rest figured out. any help and suggestions would be appreciated.


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## Kennyd (Dec 30, 2012)

Is the DPDT switch you have a "center off" switch?  in other words does it have 3 positions?  There is no need for a SPST switch.
What terminals are wired to what?





Did you set program 04 to 001 for external control?


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## Que (Dec 30, 2012)

I can't really draw it but how about I explain it better........

first I stripped the switches out of the lathe but am using the red "E stop" switch as the main to switch power to the vfd

120VAC pos goes to "e stop", common and gnd straight to vfd
220 goes to the motor
gnd going from vfd to lathe gnd point

for the fwd/rvs a dpdt switch
one side (fwd) hooked to term 4 on vfd
one side (rev) hooked to term 5 on vfd
middle com hooked to term 8 on vfd

plan on a spst switch inline on term 8 to break the fwd/rev thinking it will stop power to motor


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## Que (Dec 30, 2012)

Kennyd said:


> Is the DPDT switch you have a "center off" switch?  in other words does it have 3 positions?
> What terminals are wired to what?
> 
> Did you set program 04 to 001 for external control?



no center off

I tried the programming of F04 to 001 and remote switch did nothing


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## Kennyd (Dec 30, 2012)

Forget about the SPST switch and get a center off DPDT.

Check to make sure program 04=001, 11=000 and 12=001


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## Hawkeye (Dec 30, 2012)

If you're using a DPDT switch instead of a SPDT, make sure you run terminal 8 to both centre terminals. You didn't mention that, so I figured I'd better.

I'd also suggest connecting the emergency stop switch in series with the feed from terminal 8. It's not the best approach to stop equipment by killing the control power. The VFD is set up to stop the motor when it gets the appropriate input. Actually, in the manual for my Teco FM50, it specifically says not to start or stop the AC drive using the main circuit power. I doubt that the e-switch is built to handle the motor current.


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## Que (Dec 31, 2012)

thanks for all the replies gents. once I get out into the shop today I'll have another go at it. sounding more and more like I should have a fwd/off/rev switch instead of how I have it.

anyone have any thoughts as to my it initially goes slowly in reverse on startup, then stopping it and hitting run again it gets upto speed going forward?

thanks again for all the help


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## Kennyd (Dec 31, 2012)

Swap any two of the motor leads, then the motor will start in the other direction.


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## Pacer (Dec 31, 2012)

Que,

While I dont have an answer for the starting in reverse, then restarting properly -- I am familiar with this peculiarity. I had a SB that I installed a new 1hp 3ph motor on with a 1hp TECO to drive it, and from the git-go it did this, except mine would also "quiver/jerk". The lathe was to be sold and I needed to get it up and going, so after several hours spent trying to sort it out I gave up and installed a 2hp Hitachi unit I had from a previous project - worked perfectly then.

As for the switches, yes, its easy to overthink them. The only slightly 'beefy' switch needed is to turn the 220v on/off to the VFD. the other controls (fwd/off/rev) will only be 24-28v and can be switched with common toggles, etc. Then, if wanted, a common potentiometer.


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## Que (Dec 31, 2012)

got busy in the shop today and didn't get a chance to mess with it. try to in the next few days. I believe I read somewhere that the gnd wire from the vfd to the lathe chassis caused some problems for others with the wrong intial start. may just pull that and see what if any diff it makes.


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## Que (Jan 2, 2013)

Got me a dpdt switch with the center as off. Tried setting up with f4 as 001, f11 as 000 and f12 as 001, nothing. Once I change that f4 then I can't run keyboard or remote switch to pwr up. About ready to throw my hands up.


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## Que (Jan 2, 2013)

With those settings I just attempted to jump between T 4 and T8...... nothing.


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## PurpLev (Jan 2, 2013)

Que said:


> Got me a dpdt switch with the center as off. Tried setting up with f4 as 001, f11 as 000 and f12 as 001, nothing. Once I change that f4 then I can't run keyboard or remote switch to pwr up. About ready to throw my hands up.



have you tried bridging S1(T4) and COM (T8) with a short wire (without DPDT switch) with F4 set as 001, and F11 as 000, and F12 as 001?


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## Que (Jan 2, 2013)

I did try a jumper although the switch was still connected at the time. I guess thats the next step.


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## PurpLev (Jan 2, 2013)

I hope I don't come off as too basic or anything, but what I would do first is leave any additional controllers (like the FWD/STOP/REV switch) out of the picture, and just connect the VFD to the motor, and test for basic functionality - turn on, turn off, FWD/REV (from the VFD itself), speed up- speed down.

once the above is all functioning as planned I would then add the additional controllers and start changing the settings to support them. that way you'll at least know that it's the controller/setting that is causing the issues, and not the basic connection to the motor. leaves some of the guess work out.


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## Que (Jan 2, 2013)

Not too basic at all. That is how it is set up and running. Now I am attempting to add the remote switching.


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## PurpLev (Jan 2, 2013)

good. than you are off to a good start.

If that is the case, than go ahead and set F4 to 001,  F11 to 000, and F12 to 001 if you lose the control from the keypad that means the setting is good. then try to bridge T4 and T8. when you do bridge those, I would recommend disconnecting the DPDT switch, and bridging those terminals with the wire touching inside the terminal (not above) to make sure you have proper contact between the terminals and the bridging wire.


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## Que (Jan 2, 2013)

PurpLev said:


> good. than you are off to a good start.
> 
> If that is the case, than go ahead and set F4 to 001,  F11 to 000, and F12 to 001 if you lose the control from the keypad that means the setting is good. then try to bridge T4 and T8. when you do bridge those, I would recommend disconnecting the DPDT switch, and bridging those terminals with the wire touching inside the terminal (not above) to make sure you have proper contact between the terminals and the bridging wire.



I do lose the keypad control when I do that. I'll have to give your suggestion, removing switch and jumping ter not screws, an attempt tomorrow afternoon. I got "fed up" and left the shop for the night. tomorrow after work I'll go back to it and try.

thanks for all the help folks


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## Kennyd (Jan 2, 2013)

They (VFD's) can be a little frustrating at first till you figure out the quirks.  Hang in there...


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## rwwells (Jan 2, 2013)

Hello Guys,

Que I think your having similar problems as I did about 1 year ago with my TECO 7300CV.  I called their help desk and a guy was extremely helpful. My problem was I was trying to use COM terminal to ground forward stop reverse switch. They advised me to ground to PE and not use COM at all for any grounding. Then set 06 to 000 which is factory default. It has worked like a top ever since. Also are you converting 220 single phase to 220 3-phase? If so they advised me to use L1 and L3 and leave L2 with nothing. 

I made a drawing and took notes, not electrically correct, but thats the way I could recall this.

Hope this helps,

RWW


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## Que (Jan 3, 2013)

PurpLev said:


> good. than you are off to a good start.
> 
> If that is the case, than go ahead and set F4 to 001,  F11 to 000, and F12 to 001 if you lose the control from the keypad that means the setting is good. then try to bridge T4 and T8. when you do bridge those, I would recommend disconnecting the DPDT switch, and bridging those terminals with the wire touching inside the terminal (not above) to make sure you have proper contact between the terminals and the bridging wire.



Just tried that and I get nothing by bridging. Switch is out of play and using bare wire for bridging with settings as you stated.


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## PurpLev (Jan 4, 2013)

What are Function 5 and 6 setup as?
F05 should be 000 or 001
F06 should be 000

does the display show any error/message when you try to start the motor with the FWD/STOP/REV external switch/bridge?


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## Que (Jan 4, 2013)

No error messages and both F5 and F6 are on 000


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## Que (Jan 4, 2013)

Ok here is the fix  although I haven't the time to do it. 

Use Ter 3 instead of Ter 8 due to factory settings. Something about the NPN and PNP settings default from the company.
For the initial startup problem I've had with the motor starting in rew then having to stop and hit run again for it to go fwd. This I did and it works. Go to F51 and change that to 001. This lets you get to the C settings. To do that hit the DSP/FUN button. Change C14 to 001. The guy I talked with talked way above my head but hey it works.

What I found out in all of this is when in need and all thats been tried then contact customer support. They were quite helpful.
I really appreciate all of y'alls help on this also.


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## rwwells (Jan 5, 2013)

Fantastic Que, 

RWW


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## Que (Jan 5, 2013)

yeah I'm pretty dang pleased about it too


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 20, 2013)

I am finding that you can switch NPN to PNP ,it is the switch on the lower right. PNP setting and you will use #3 24 volt common.
NPN setting, and you will use #8 common.
I was told in my thread (I can't find it now) that it really does not matter. PNP you are sending 24 volt (term 3) to S1 and S2,  NPN you are grounding S1 and S2. 
I did find my Pot. would not work properly with the Analog control selection factory setting, (not sure witch one it was/is now) but I had to change it to the other setting. 
I was only getting about a 10 HZ change over the whole range of the pot. with the other setting. 
Thanks, Tony
[h=3][/h]



Que said:


> Ok here is the fix  although I haven't the time to do it.
> 
> Use Ter 3 instead of Ter 8 due to factory settings. Something about the NPN and PNP settings default from the company.
> For the initial startup problem I've had with the motor starting in rew then having to stop and hit run again for it to go fwd. This I did and it works. Go to F51 and change that to 001. This lets you get to the C settings. To do that hit the DSP/FUN button. Change C14 to 001. The guy I talked with talked way above my head but hey it works.
> ...


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## Que (Apr 7, 2013)

OK up until now I really haven't minded being without reverse but now I need it. Have been turning off remote switch on VFD panel and controlling it in reverse since.  Having adding the remote fwd/off/rvs switch.
now the question...........how the heck do I get rvs to work in remote mode? I am using ter3 for common and 4 for fwd and 5 for rvs. Even when I simply jumper 3 to 5 it goes fwd. What setting am I overlooking?


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## twstoerzinger (Apr 7, 2013)

Hello Que,
First I want to confirm the model number drive - you say below that it is a JNEV-101-H1. This model is a 115V single phase input. Anyways, I think the programming is the same whether it is 115 V or 220 V. 

There are several ways of configuring the forward / reverse mode.
From all of the responses below, it looks like some are addressing the "Forward / Stop / Reverse" mode, while your original post looked like you were going for the "Run/Stop - Forward/Reverse" mode. You make this selection via parameter F06. The factory default for F06 is the "Forward/Stop/Reverse" mode. Page 18 in the Teco JNEV manual shows how to configure these modes (but it's confusing until you have been through it 20 times). Also see page 28 for the wiring connections.

If you are going for the Run/Stop - Forward/Reverse mode where you have two switches, one for Run/Stop and the second switch for Forward/Reverse, then you configure like this:
F04 = 001 (remote control selected)
F06 = 001 (Run/Stop - Fwd/Rev mode selected)
F11 = 000 (Forward command)
F12 = 001 (Reverse command)

This mode only requires two spst switches (one for Run/Stop and one for For/Rev)
With the PNP/NPN switch in the PNP setting, wiring connected like this:
24V (term3)  Common to both switches
S1 (term 4)   to the Run/Stop NO side
S2 (term 5)   to the For/Rev NO side

On some of the more recent posts below, it looks like you are leaning more towards the "Forward/Stop/Reverse" mode which also uses two switches, but with a single operator lever. This is the mode I use on my Clausing because it acts the same as to old high voltage "drum switch." For this configuration you have the two switches on a single operator with a center off position, all with "maintained position" meaning that the switch stays where you set it. The switches have to be mechanically connected so that only one can be closed at a time. The configuration for this mode is:
F04 = 001 (remote control selected)
F06 = 000 (For/Stop/Rev selected)
F11 = 000 (Forward command)
F12 = 001 (Reverse command)
With the PNP/NPN switch in the PNP setting, wiring connected like this:
24V (term 3) to Common to both switches
S1 (term 4) to the Forward side of the switch
S2 (term 5) to the Reverse side of the switch
(the center "Stop" position keeps both switches open)

Let us know which configuration you want to use, and if it works out for you.
Terry S.


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## mrbreezeet1 (Apr 7, 2013)

Que said:


> OK up until now I really haven't minded being without reverse but now I need it. Have been turning off remote switch on VFD panel and controlling it in reverse since.  Having adding the remote fwd/off/rvs switch.
> now the question...........how the heck do I get rvs to work in remote mode? I am using ter3 for common and 4 for fwd and 5 for rvs. Even when I simply jumper 3 to 5 it goes fwd. What setting am I overlooking?





mrbreezeet1 said:


> I am finding that you can switch NPN to PNP  ,it is the switch on the lower right. PNP setting and you will use #3 24  volt common.
> NPN setting, and you will use #8 common.
> I was told in my thread (I can't find it now) that it really does not  matter. PNP you are sending 24 volt (term 3) to S1 and S2,  NPN you are  grounding S1 and S2.
> I did find my Pot. would not work properly with the Analog control  selection factory setting, (not sure witch one it was/is now) but I had  to change it to the other setting.
> ...



My C 14 I never changed, I thought we wanted the vector control for good torque at low HZ. 
But that may very well be another issue all together. 
Well, I don't know, let me see. I forget, you are using a SPDT switch right?
It has been a while, mine is working OK , again, I am using NPN and using term 8 as common. 
But is your F 4 set to 001 (external control) and your F6 set to 000? (Forward / Stop - Reverse / Stop)
_*Also make sure F11=000 and F12= 001*_

_*If that all is correct, why not try switching to NPN and use Term 8 as your common. 
Again, that is how mine is set up, and it worked proper from day one. 
That is what I would try, as long as your  F4=001, and F6=000, and your *__*F11=000 and F12= 001*_


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## Que (Apr 7, 2013)

Thank you all. Somehow F12 was at 000. Now its on 001and all is well.

thanks again for all the assistance.


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