# Ahp Alphatig 200x



## roadie33

I just ordered the AHP AlphaTig 200X from Amazon, $719 + $30.50 shipping, $20 off gift card,  total $729.50 to my door. Supposed to be delivered around March 8th. That was one of the deciding factors also.
After reading and watching different reviews and videos on the different budget TIG AC/DC welders I decided on this one because of the all around good reviews. 
I will wait and see when it arrives and post some follow up pics and weld reviews when I get it.
I've been needing a TIG welder for Aluminum and a Stick welder for a while. So instead of buying 2 separate machines I researched getting one to do both. 
I've had a wire feed for 20+ years so I hope the learning curve for TIG is not to difficult.
Just have to pick up some Tungsten and filler rod after it comes in. Have plenty of 6011 and 7018 stick from previous welder.


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## roadie33

Need some help from the experienced TIG welders out there picking out the best Tungsten for steel and or Aluminum. I figure the 2% Lant but what brand if there is better or worse ones out there.


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## Silverbullet

I too want a tig I've looked at this model too. Keep us informed on its progress. A fresh look from a newbie  is always better then most.


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## kizmit99

I think you'll like it.
I got one a little over a year ago.  I got the 2014 model though.
So far it's been a nice little machine.

I had zero experience prior to getting it, and it didn't take too long to get reasonably proficient.  I haven't done anything real with aluminum yet though...


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## NCjeeper

roadie33 said:


> I figure the 2% Lant but what brand if there is better or worse ones out there.


I think I ordered mine from weld city.


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## DSaul

I have the same welder and it works great for me.  This is a bicycle frame I built after about a month of practice.  That is .9mm to 1.1mm 4130 steel welded with 1/16" tungsten(2% Lanthanated) and .035" ER312 rod.


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## roadie33

Weld City has good prices but which Tungsten works best for AL and Steel?
Or do I need different ones for different metals?
2% Lanth or Thoriated

For filler rod, What size is best for steel and Aluminum? 1/16, 1/8 or 3/32
Aluminum shows ER 4043 and ER5356, whats the difference?
Steel shows ER70s-2 and 70s-6, whats the difference?

I've been watching Jody's video's at Welding Tips and Tricks, but he kind of goes thru stuff pretty fast and the explanations of why use this type of rod instead of another is confusing.

I guess I need to find a good book on TIG welding that explains this stuff in layman's English.
In other words, a Welding book for Dummies. 

Anyone have a recommendation on a good book?


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## Steve Shannon

Welding for Dummies is a book available from Amazon.  I know nothing about it.  


 Steve Shannon, P.E.


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## roadie33

I guess I should have been more specific.  Been MIG and Stick welding for quite a while. TIG is the new skill set to learn now.
TIG Welding for Dummies


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## NCjeeper

roadie33 said:


> Weld City has good prices but which Tungsten works best for AL and Steel?
> Or do I need different ones for different metals?
> 2% Lanth or Thoriated
> 
> For filler rod, What size is best for steel and Aluminum? 1/16, 1/8 or 3/32
> Aluminum shows ER 4043 and ER5356, whats the difference?
> Steel shows ER705-2 and 705-6, whats the difference?


I use lanthanated for both. Works just fine. I like 3/32 diameter filler rod. Seems to be the sweet spot. I use 4043, er70s-6 filler rods.


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## arcflash

I have one and its a sweet little machine.


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## roadie33

The Welder came in today and I got it un-boxed and pieces laid out. The 2016 has most of the improvements suggested by the people that reviewed this welder on U-Tube. Even Mr. Tig approved of it and uses it quit often in videos.
The only thing is the pedal is the same as the 2015. I see the SSC pedal on Amazon for $159 so that might be an option if this one doesn't work out.
I also did like some suggested on the U-Tube videos I watched about the stock pedal. Screwed it down to a board so it doesn't walk away when using it. I also zip-tied the finger switch to the torch lead. 
I'll pick up a bottle of Argon Thursday and some 2% Lanth Tungsten and then, I'll have to give it a test run. 




Everything laid out






Pedal with board attached and switch zip-tied.




Bigger than I thought it would be.


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## roadie33

Got the Argon bottle and got it all setup and tried to do some test welds on a piece of aluminum.
Didn't look to good. Changed the settings and tried some more test beads. I guess I'll keep practicing.
Started building a new cart to hold the new Tig and my old Wire feed. Got about halfway thru welding with the wire feed and ran out of wire. Ended up using the new Tig on DC to finish up.
Tig DC is a whole lot easier than AC for Aluminum. Just need to get more steady so I quit dipping the tungsten and having to stop and regrind a point. 
After doing that twice, I just ground a couple more extra and just changed them out when I dipped it in the puddle or touched it with the filler rod. 
Finally got it all welded up. It's not pretty, but the welds are strong with good penetration. When I did a good weld with penetration I was happy, but then the next one sucked. 
Big learning curve with Tig, compared to Mig or stick.
Still need to add some shelf plates, and make the bottle holder, prime and paint.
Next weekend hopefully.
I'll try and get some pics when I get back out to the garage.
Overall I would say that the AHP Alphatig 200x price is awesome and is a very good welder. 
I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it for the Home Hobby Shop.


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## DSaul

I don't know if you have a cheater lens(magnifier) in your hood, but that helped me a lot with TIG.  It made a big difference in being able to see the puddle clearly.  If I happen to look over the cheater, the arc looks so tiny it feels like I'm looking at it from across the room.  I used a 2.0 for a while and just switched to a 2.5


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## roadie33

Thanks for the idea. I'll have to see if I can find one to fit my Auto hood.


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## NCjeeper

Yeah I use a 1.5 in my hood. Of course my eyes aren't getting any younger either.


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## roadie33

Do they make the Mag lens that fits the HF Auto hood?
I don't see a size on it.
Chicago Electric Welding - item#91214


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## NCjeeper

I had to upgrade my HF helmet to a Hobart one. The Hobart one has tabs on the inside that the cheater lens slide into.


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## roadie33

I measured the lens in the HF Helmet and it is 2" x 4". I'll check with Welding supply and see if they have any. If not I guess there is always eBay.

Took some pics of the cart so far. Waiting to get some Diamond plate for the shelves.
Need to add some handles and places to hang stuff from.
Then maybe I'll be ready to wire brush it, prime and paint it. 







Had to add a two 1" square tubing cross pieces for the bottles to set on instead of the axles.
Plan on putting the Mig on bottom shelf, so I needed a place for C25 bottle beside the Argon.


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## kizmit99

roadie33 said:


> Do they make the Mag lens that fits the HF Auto hood?



I have the same hood and just used "standard" 2x4.25 lenses similar this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/diopter-3-0...488119?hash=item1eac955ab7:g:pCwAAOxyHIlTbj6g

The wire clip that holds the whole auto-darkening lens assembly in has enough 'give' to clamp a cheater lens as well...


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## roadie33

I figured they would. Ordered some from Amazon with Prime $5.64. 2.50 magnification


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## roadie33

Got my new welding cart built for my new AHP Alphatig and customized Dual MIG 151 welder. Built it with 3 shelves in case I get a Plasma Cutter sometime soon. I painted it Hammered Copper with HVLP spray gun. Looks awesome in the daylight. 
I noticed after I got the welders in their places that I needed to make some rod storage for the Tig rod and Stick. 
Also need to make some kind of bar or something to clamp all of my welding clamps to.
The Kant Twist will need to be located elsewhere and I have a bunch of Bessey F style, some Vise grip F style clamps, regular swivel pad locking C clamps and to many regular C clamps to count. I almost need another cart just to hold all of the clamps. 
I was thinking of getting some 2" PVC and capping one end, then attaching it to the legs on the cart for the TIG rod storage. Need to think of something else for the 6011 and 7018 rod.


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## JR49

kizmit99 said:


> I have the same hood and just used "standard" 2x4.25 lenses similar this one:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/diopter-3-0...488119?hash=item1eac955ab7:g:pCwAAOxyHIlTbj6g
> 
> The wire clip that holds the whole auto-darkening lens assembly in has enough 'give' to clamp a cheater lens as well...



I see you guys talking about using cheater lenses and have a question.  Since I got into welding again after probably 20 years, I really have trouble seeing the weld puddle.  I've been using some drug store reading glasses, but still have problems.  Would the cheaters work better?  I'm sure it is more convienient but what about actually helping to see what you're welding?  Thanks,  JR49
EDIT:  Oh, and Roadie33, sorry for the hijack, I love the welding cart.  Especially how you made the mounts for the gas bottles


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## DSaul

I like the cheaters better than using reading glasses.  It helps keep me from getting dizzy when I look around the shop after I flip the hood up.  I found that going 1x higher than what I use for reading glasses works good for the cheater, since you're only looking through it while welding.


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## kizmit99

JR49 said:


> I see you guys talking about using cheater lenses and have a question.  Since I got into welding again after probably 20 years, I really have trouble seeing the weld puddle.  I've been using some drug store reading glasses, but still have problems.  Would the cheaters work better?  I'm sure it is more convienient but what about actually helping to see what you're welding?



I wear reading glasses to do any close work.  To that end my shop safety glasses are actually magnified, and I find the cheater lens in the hood is the only thing that lets me get a good view of the puddle.


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## roadie33

I tried to finally do some AC Aluminum practice welding today and it did not turn out very pretty. Don't know if it was me, the metal or the welder.  Have had good results with DC Steel.
Set on AC, 100 Amps, Argon at 25, tried AC Freq 120 and 150, Balance around 40%. No difference.
Here are some pics of what I was trying to weld, the settings and how it turned out. Any help would be greatly appreciated on what I was doing wrong so I can fix it.


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## DSaul

That looks like you had no shielding for your arc.  Were you getting sparks?  What cup are you using with 25cfh argon flow?  I haven't done any AL with my machine yet, but 25cfh seems really high unless you're using a large cup like a #12.  Too much argon flow with a small cup will blow the shielding gas off your arc and draw in outside air.  Try backing the Argon down to about 15cfh.


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## roadie33

I was using 3/32"  2% Lanth Tungsten with 3/32" 4043 Filler and a gas lens with #7 cup.
I tried from 10 to 25 on Argon and no difference doing that.
I was wondering if the AC Balance is way off and trying to do to much cleaning?
I might try different settings again tonight and see what happens. Ran out of time to do it yesterday.
Really need to get this figured out in case it's the welder and I need to contact them for warranty.


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## arcflash

Ditto on 15cfh with a gas lens.  Is that 1/4" thick aluminum? If so you need to open the machine up to 200 amps to get enough heat. Your ac balance should be close where it is. Also the ac frequency should be turned  down to 40 to 80 assuming it is that thick of plate. The higher frequency tends to be for lighter sheet metal. And are you using the foot pedal?


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## roadie33

Using the finger switch on the torch. Tried the foot pedal and kept getting a Charlie horse in my calf. Not very comfortable.  Need to get a different kind of pedal but will have to wait for funds to build up again.


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## arcflash

If you turn the pedal backwards and put your foot on the stationary part and rock your foot forward it will feel better. What is your post flow set at? I assume you are using straight argon.


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## roadie33

Just tried the settings you suggested and the crater on the right is what happened.  Also got the cup so hot it cracked.



The 2nd pic is with AC balance at 50 and 120 Amps. Still no puddle. Just black pitting. Cleaned both with new SS brush, wiped with Acetone before welding. It acts like it's welding on DC not AC.


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## roadie33

The 2nd pic is with AC balance at 50 and 120 Amps. Still no puddle. Just black pitting. Cleaned both with new SS brush, wiped with Acetone before welding. It acts like it's welding on DC not AC.[/QUOTE]


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## arcflash

Are you getting gas flow out of the cup? It looks as though something is leaking and sucking air through the system BAD. If you are using the trigger switch you have no control over the amps other than the panel control. How much stick out are you running on your tungsten?


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## roadie33

I hear the gas and feel it coming out of the cup. No problem welding steel on DC. Welds nice on steel. I really need this to be able to do Alum. 

Here is one on steel.


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## roadie33

1/4" to 3/8" stick out. Pure Argon.
How would I check to make sure enough gas is getting to the cup?
starting to get frustrated. 
Any amperage over 150 gets the Tungsten glowing hot and the cup starts to glow also. Already had 2 cups crack because of heat.


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## roadie33

Would it still weld steel if there was a gas leak and letting in O2 with the Argon?


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## DSaul

I'm not sure what problems it might cause, but you should have the switch in the 4T mode for using the trigger switch.


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## roadie33

It doesn't matter where the switch is 2T or 4T, or whether I use the foot pedal or hand switch, it always looks the same. 
I will try to contact AHP Tech support today and see what they say.


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## roadie33

Got busy at work and didn't get a chance to call tech support today. I'll try tomorrow.
Took the cover off welder to see if the gas line had any breaks or rub marks on it. It looked good and each end was tight. plugged it in and stepped on pedal, I could feel the gas coming out the cup with no problem.
Tried another test weld and it looked just as bad. Hissed and sputtered, would never get a puddle started.
Whenever I tried to put some filler rod (4043) in, it would really start sputtering and almost like push the molten rod out of the way. The rod never was fully melted either and I would hold the arc right over it and it just sputtered and crackled, and sometimes blow it off the Aluminum piece.

Here is the pic of latest try.  What is all of the white looking stuff all over everything? Even on the filler rod.











These were the settings I used. With foot pedal, 100 Amps, 120 Freq,  and gas at 15 cfh.


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## Steve Shannon

Bad gas? Are you sure it's argon?


 Steve Shannon


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## NCjeeper

That aluminum looks way too thick for the amps you are running. Is that 1/4"? If so you need way more amps. Grab an 1/8" thick piece of aluminum with the same settings you are using and see if it puddles and you can lay some beads.


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## roadie33

The bottle says Argon. I do have a C25 bottle right beside it for the MIG.
I checked both to make sure I didn't connect to the wrong one and as far as I can tell I am connected to the one that says Argon, no mix.
I guess I could try and exchange it at the supply house for another one and see if that is it.

It is 1/4", but even after it heats up after trying to weld, and it's too hot to even think of touching, it will still not puddle or even begin to weld.
There is a lot of oxidizing going on and then it just starts sputtering and crackling, and that's before I even try to add filler. By then the Tungsten is red hot and the cup is starting to glow. So I know there is enough heat in it to start a puddle but it doesn't.

I tried it at 200 Amps, with the pedal, start at 10 Amps, Freq at 100, Balance at 40% starts out looking like it's going to work right, then all that happens is it makes a deep impression in it and begins to blow a hole thru it, sputtering and crackling the whole time.


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## arcflash

How much stick out are you running on your tungsten and at what angle is the tungsten toward the plate? You should be at 10 to 15 degrees off vertical. Your gap between the tungsten and plate should not exceed 1/8 inch. With .25 inch plate it will take some time to get it up to temperature. I just got through welding some 1/8 and I was running 200 amps on that.


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## NCjeeper

The old rule of thumb is 1 amp per thousand of thickness. So you would need 250 amps to weld that aluminum and your machine is under powered.


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## roadie33

I had the wife take the bottle back to supply store to make sure it was pure Argon. Part of the label was tore off and all that was showing was Argon.
They checked the numbers on bottle and found that it was Argon 75% and Carbon Dioxide 25%.  No wonder it was oxidizing so much  and sputtering on Aluminum. That's why it welded Steel just fine, but not Aluminum.
So hopefully when I get home and hook it back to the welder and try some Aluminum it will be good.
I'll post some pics if I get it to weld and see how it works out on some 1/4" plate. Don't have anything thinner to test with so I'll have to play with the settings to find the sweet spot with this particular welder. I know some say 1 amp per thousandth thickness, but that is just a general guide and is not for every welder. Watched some videos and talked to another AHP owner and 150 to 180 seems to work good on 1/4" for this welder. 1/8" is good at 80 to 90 amps.


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## JR49

roadie33 said:


> They checked the numbers on bottle and found that it was Argon 75% and Carbon Dioxide 25%. No wonder it was oxidizing so much and sputtering on Aluminum. That's why it welded Steel just fine, but not Aluminum.


        I'm a big believer in the fact that "everybody makes mistakes", and when it's a company that sold you something, they should make it right.  I bet, if you asked, they would even replace the gas cups that cracked when using the wrong gas that they gave you.  Worth a try?  Don't know if its even worth the bother as I don't tig, so have no idea how much the cups cost.  Good luck with the new welder,   JR49


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## arcflash

That machine will weld .25 aluminum but it takes a little time to come up to temperature. You might want to keep the freq in the 40 to 60 range. If you have 1/8 tungsten I would recommend using it and don't get surprised when the torch get hot!


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## GA Gyro

First let me post a dis-claimer... I am not experienced in TIG, and have yet to get one...
I am experienced with stick and gas (oxy-acetylene) though. 

I was at a friends house last fall... he has an Everlast 200A TIG... cost over 2X what yours did.
He had some issues welding AL... said he pre-heated the AL... and that helped a bunch!
Seems AL takes a LOT of amps to heat up and weld properly... that was his conclusion.

Hope this helps...


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## roadie33

Total difference when using the correct gas. Did a few test welds on some scrap and looks a whole lot better.
No sputtering or crackling now.
Clamped up some pieces that I plan to use to make a box to hold my Digital Temperature controller and SSR for my kiln to temper steel.
Welds don't look the best (no stack of dimes), but they are strong and good penetration.
Need to work on holding a straight line as you can tell. 
I believe I will make some kind of height adjustable stand that I can prop up on when welding.
Settings: 150 amps, 120 Freq, 40 Balance, start and finish amps about 40, 15 CFH Argon, 3/32" 4043 Filler, 3/32" 2% Lanth Tungsten.
1/4" plate, sides 4" x 6" and base is 6" x 8"
Took about 10 seconds to get a puddle and slow going at first then as it heated up increased speed.
As you can tell by the 1st weld it started cold but finished up good.
Second weld was much better since metal was heated up by then.
All I'd say is this is a very good welder for the price, if you get the correct gas to start out with. 
I would definitely recommend it for a Hobby shop. 3 year warranty is good also.


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## roadie33

After welding some more 1/4" Aluminum I think I need to go to a heavier Torch. Been looking at getting a Wp-26 but I am not sure if it will fit the Super Flex cable for the 17. 
What size fittings are on the WP-26 compared to the 17?
If not, where can I get the Super Flex cable for the 26 that will work on the AHP 1/2" Dinse?
Would I need to get a different Dinse connector for the 26?


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## DSaul

You will need a cable and dinse connector that is specific to the 26 torch.  CK makes a dinse connector with the quick disconnect for the gas.  I have the version of that connector(CK SL2-35QD) that works with the CK9 torch and flex hose on my 2015 AHP Alphatig 200 and it is plug and play.  (as an aside, the dinse connector that came with my welder is not removable from the hose)  For the 26 torch, you will need the CK SL8-35QD connector.  A quick search on Amazon shows that connector and the matching CK torch and superflex hose.  The CK worldwide website has info about the hose fitting sizes for each torch series.


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## roadie33

Thanks DSaul.
Whats the difference between the CK TL26 and CK CK26 ?


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## DSaul

The TL is the Trim Line series which has a smaller handle.  This video explains the difference


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## roadie33

Thanks DSaul.


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## BGHansen

JR49 said:


> I'm a big believer in the fact that "everybody makes mistakes", and when it's a company that sold you something, they should make it right.  I bet, if you asked, they would even replace the gas cups that cracked when using the wrong gas that they gave you.  Worth a try?  Don't know if its even worth the bother as I don't tig, so have no idea how much the cups cost.  Good luck with the new welder,   JR49


Very true statement about everyone making mistakes.  One of my favorite examples is the Mercury flight of Scott Carpenter.  Splashdown was something like 300 miles away from the target point.  Turned out the NASA engineers forgot to account for the rotation of the earth (>1000 mph at the equator) during re-entry.  Pretty sharp group of guys making a mistake.

Bruce


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## rwm

Wow. Gas labeled wrong. I hope that is very unusual!
I'm glad you got it working! At least it was and easy fix. I'm not sure if all your previous questions were answered. I use 4043 exclusively. It flows better. I have found that 2% ceriated works great on aluminum. Now I just use it for everything and it works fine on all steels. 
Have fun.
Robert


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## coherent

Haven't seen any comments on the AlphaTig 200x for a bit so thought I'd chime in. I bought one a few weeks ago directly from AHP via Amazon. Amazon also proved to be a great source for some 2% Lanthinated Tungston electrodes, a selection of filler rod (4043 for aluminum, ER70S-2 for steel, and some silicon bronze to try my hand at tig brazing).  Also ordered a WP9F torch and a selection of gas lens, tips and ceramic cups both stubby and standard. I must admit I'm by no means a pro welder by trade, but was really pleased with the performance and quality of the welder. I was able to produce fairly nice welds on both steel and aluminum.  I'd suggest getting some gas lens's for the torch (actually any torch). I was able to lower the argon flow a bit and get better shielding. I've never tig brazed before and am finding it a bit of a challenge to keep from not applying too many amps & too much heat but I'm sure practice will fix that. 

I'd highly recommend taking a look a the welding tips and trick web site for anyone interested, new or even a seasoned pro at tig welding. There were some specific settings and other information that were specifically for the AHP 200x that I found very helpful in zeroing in on the correct settings without having to do too much hit and miss testing. In my opinion it's a great welder for the $ especially for the home hobbyist welders out there. I haven't owned it long enough to comment on longevity, but I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope it serves me for years.

I'd really like to see a list/chart of settings for specific thickness, types of metals etc wtith different sizes of torches, electrodes, filler rod etc supplied by owners for this specific machine. Might prove to be worthwhile information for those who have one and learning the machine or have a need to weld something they don't normally.


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## ndnchf

Resurrecting an old thread here.

I just bought one of these AHP Alpha TIG 200X machines off CL. It was slightly used (bought new in June 2016) but in like new condition. I've had a MIG for many years, but wanted a TIG for delicate stuff and aluminum. I'm reading up on TIG and watching videos. Looking for tips and suggestions from those who have the same welder.
Thanks Steve


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## coherent

The learning curve for TIG isn't to bad if you welded a bit. Same general principal once you get the settings, power and rod feeding down. I added a smaller WP-9 torch head for thinner metals which is fun (you can practice welding razor blades together) but other than that, I think just playing with all the settings and testing them and practice making beads, beads and more beads and you'll get more proficient. If you haven't seen them already there are a couple of folks who have produced some information and good youtube vids with hints and tips specifically for using the AHP 200x.


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## ndnchf

Yeah, I've been watching a lot of videos and reading on the weldingweb forum. Jody and Kevin have a lot of good info.  So far I'm very pleased with it.  But need a lot more practice.


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## AGCB97

Got mine about 1-1/2 years ago. I love it! Only ever used a junky old buzz box before.

Best upgrade I've done is a Lincoln Viking helmet! Replaced the "cheapest I could find" from EBAY. Now I can see!!!! So far been using reading glasses with one lens popped out but am going to try an insert.

Others upgrades I've done
CK9 torch
Good foot pedal
200 amp torch (I think it's a 26) for the large work and lengthy jobs (with 25' hose)
Added a torch switch to the big torch (mainly for tacking away from the table and lying on my back and other such positions
made a ground cable extension so I can get 25 feet from welder

Current MAJOR project (as apposed to the everyday _timeout_ projects is
Another buggy

Welding steel is a piece of cake. In fact I would suggest anyone get accustomed to the machine on steel before going to aluminum. Learn to walk before you run!

I was searching this forum for turn table threads when I found this thread. So turntable/rotator is _timeout_ project of the day(s).

Tried different kinds of electrodes but in my 'inexperience' have just settled down to 2% lan and leave it.

On my 2nd 10 lb. box of ER70-s2.

Aaron


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## DSaul

One of the best upgrades I made on my machine was this foot pedal.  https://www.usaweld.com/AHP-TIG-Foot-Pedal-p/c910-0725.htm  It works much better than the stock pedal at controlling the amperage over the range of travel.  The stock pedal felt more like an on/off switch.  With this pedal I can set the machine to a higher amperage than needed and control the output with the pedal.  That way I always have more in reserve for those spots that require more amperage to get the puddle to flow out.


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## coherent

AGCB97 said:


> Best upgrade I've done is a Lincoln Viking helmet!



I'll second that. I've been through a number of cheaper helmets and got tired of getting flashed when trying to tig weld really light stuff at very low amperage. I finally broke drown and bought a Lincoln Viking 3350. I absolutely love it. The difference is night and day using a good helmet with the large view and new technology glass/sensors. I can crank the 200x amps way down for light/thin metal and have never been flashed with this helmet.

As far as the foot pedal, mine is the latest version of the 200x and I think they improved/upgraded the included pedal quite a bit from what I've heard about the previous one. I've no complaints or issues with it.


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