# Harbor freight bandsaw help



## casca92

Would like to find out the difference between HF bandsaw models 93762 and model  62377.
believe harbor freight is going to have 25% sale for easter weekend.

thanx in advance


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## Superburban

Harbor freight has stuff made in huge lots. The 62377, would be the older version, and the 93762 would be the replacement version. Your local store will likely only have one or the other. It looks like the 93762 has a different gear case cover, the motor has 2 capacitors, looks like the 62377 only has one. Which would be better? I dunno. Also, the newer one has more curves in the corners of the casting. again, which would be better. for the motor and the casting, I don't think its the looks, but the bearings, support, and how the gears fit, that would determine which is better. That can likely  only be done by a side to side comparison, which is not likely something that can be done. 

Were they built at the same factory?

Download the manuals, and compare the diagrams.

But before you do all that, call your local stores, and see which they have in stock.


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## casca92

where or how did you find that information ?  I looked over the internet could not find anything as effiecient as that.
thought it might be that simple of an upgrade.  thanx.


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## Charles Spencer

Look under the tab marked "User Manual".  It's just above the description on the web page for the machine.


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## Superburban

I did not even get to the manuals, that was just from looking at the pics. Figured I would let you go through the manual. after all, it is all a moot point, if your store only has one model available.

Like Mr Spencer said, look at the tabs half way down, for the manuals.

http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html







http://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-4-in-x-6-in-horizontalvertical-metal-cutting-band-saw-62377.html


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## markba633csi

Buyer beware.  I think Grizzly's offering is better.
MS


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## Superburban

Looks like the same thing, just double the price. $398.95 with shipping, Vs HF $250 - 25%= $188, + tax.


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## Bob Korves

I have the 93762, and it has been a fine machine, after making the adjustments that the factory did not.  These are good band saws, just need to get acquainted with them and get them working square and with the correct down feed pressure...  The vise will also need to be calibrated so it is actually square, and the blade side and thrust bearings will also need adjusting.  Make it right and it will treat you right...


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## harrzack

Bob Korves said:


> I have the 93762, and it has been a fine machine, after making the adjustments that the factory did not.  These are good band saws, just need to get acquainted with them and get them working square and with the correct down feed pressure...  The vise will also need to be calibrated so it is actually square, and the blade side and thrust bearings will also need adjusting.  Make it right and it will treat you right...



I had an EARLY (circa 1985!) of these saws and it was a god-send to get me off the hack saw.  Worked very well - an essential tool for the serious shop. I'm in an apartment now, so no way to squeeze one in. 

As Bob said, set it up, tune everything and it def will be you best Shop friend.  There are even plans around to replace the spring with a hydraulic system!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Superburban

Agreed, the first thing I would do, is replace the factory blade with a good bimetal blade. I think the factory blade lasted a few cuts. The replacement has been going good for 8 or so years now. It has one tooth broken off, So now it has a nice tick every few seconds. Like most saws, the key is in a quality blade.


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## xplodee

Any tips on how to get one of these saws to stop throwing the blade off? I don't really know where to start on tweaking/tuning this thing. I had it running pretty well I thought, but now it throws the blade off the pulleys constantly!


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## royesses

I have the 93762 and love it. I have put a lot of work into it. The newer saw has some extra safety guards or redesigned safety guards. Any changes cause a new part number at HF. As said by other posters aligning and adjusting the saw and using a high quality bi-metal blade are what makes the saw a winner. Depending on how long your local HF has been in business the newer model is likely to be the only one available. Either would be good with a 20% or 25% off coupon.




Attached is what seems to be the bible of HF 4x6 blade tracking and adjustment tips from the Yahoo group. It is very helpful in getting the saw set up. I use Lenox blades on mine. HF has a good bi-metal blade also but it's $34.00 and I get the Lenox blades for about $22.00 on sale at MSC. If you need a coupon try the following link. It has all the latest coupons available for download:
Harbor Freight Tools Coupon Database - Free coupons, 25 percent off coupons, 20 percent off coupons, No Purchase Required coupons, toolbox coupons:
http://www.hfqpdb.com/

The coupons have always worked when printed out. If you get one and need help this forum is your friend.

Roy


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## casca92

thank you gentleman  I did read both manuals  Didn't see a big flashing light that said here dummy this is the difference.  I much rather get the word from those who know.Much higher reguard for your opinions and insights.  My feelings is harbor freight is not bad equipment if you don't make a living with those tools and make corrections they overlooked or careless assembly.


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## keffer

casca92 said:


> Would like to find out the difference between HF bandsaw models 93762 and model  62377.
> believe harbor freight is going to have 25% sale for easter weekend.
> 
> thanx in advance


Make sure you check the oil in the gear case. I took my cover off thinking I had sheared a key and found almost no oil and lots of brass shavings. I have cleaned it and refilled but I'm not sure how much longer it would have lasted.


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## harrzack

xplodee said:


> Any tips on how to get one of these saws to stop throwing the blade off? I don't really know where to start on tweaking/tuning this thing. I had it running pretty well I thought, but now it throws the blade off the pulleys constantly!



There is an adjustment the tilts the drive wheel left and right from vertical.  I believe this is called 'tracking'.  There should be a bit of a crown to the tire on the wheels...  this helps the blade center itself,  I suspect if you tweek this adjustment you should be able to keep the band inpace


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## fradish

Another thing to look for if you open the gear box is to check to see if the worm gear has been
deburred.  I read somewhere that they sometimes aren't and mine was very sharp.  I was
concerned that it could cause excessive wear on the brass gear it mates with so I used a 
square file to soften the sharp edges of the worm gear, then I changed the oil after wiping
out the filings and any swarf from manufacture.


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## joebiplane

casca92 said:


> where or how did you find that information ?  I looked over the internet could not find anything as effiecient as that.
> thought it might be that simple of an upgrade.  thanx.



I bought mine around 1980.  It needed the motor repaired once.   Not replaced....just repaired.  That's it !   So whichever model you can find. And get your $25.00 discount... BUY it.   And buy GOOD BLADES !
The cheap blades are NOT. The least expensive !!!!!
Joe



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## markba633csi

Do they still use brass worm gears? I thought they might be steel (or cast iron) now, for cost reasons.
MS


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## fradish

It isn't the worm gear that is brass in mine (bought this last fall) it is the gear that
meshes with the worm.  So having a steel (or cast iron) worm with sharp edges
meshing with the softer brass gear was what concerned me.  No idea if it actually 
would have been a problem, but it made me feel better getting rid of the sharp edges.


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## harrzack

Soft on hard.  Think of the vinyl LP records of days gone by.  A DIAMOND stylus rode on VINYL surface - and the diamond would eventually wear.  Wonder if brass/steel is intentional - along those lines?


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## LarryJ

casca92 said:


> Would like to find out the difference between HF bandsaw models 93762 and model  62377.
> believe harbor freight is going to have 25% sale for easter weekend.
> 
> thanx in advance



They're probably identical, but the 62377 is 12 pounds heavier.  Maybe an extra tool or just thicker packaging. <g>  Superburban is probably right, in that you'll likely have to call your local store to see which one they carry.  A Grizzly saw might be a better deal if only for the upgraded quality control, but it will come at a cost. ($59 higher plus you lose your sale price)  

I opted for a portable bandsaw, and will build a frame/base for it myself, now that I'm retired and can get to the gazillion project I had put off.  I have a cross-slide vise to use for micro-adjustment. 
A pack of 3 good Milwaukee bimetal blades cost $24 from Amazon, and they cut better and, I'm sure, longer.


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## richard.nott

I've had one of these saws for quite some time and yes the blade had a tendency to just off the pulleys until I shimmed the bearing on the drive side out about .060" also had a problem with not being able to get a straight cut found the dove tail guide at the blade rollers wasn't square with the world took it off and with just a little file work got it straight and true with the world.


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## RCWorks

6 of one, half a dozen of the other.

No matter which one you get you will take it apart and reassemble it right with a new blade. That's the norm for HF machine tools.

I have one, the factory blade had issues... It had a weld on it that made the machine jump every time it passed the cut and when the cut ended it had to be reinstalled as it would come off... I use blades from Littlemachineshop.com and they work great and solved the issues.


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## Shadowdog500

xplodee said:


> Any tips on how to get one of these saws to stop throwing the blade off? I don't really know where to start on tweaking/tuning this thing. I had it running pretty well I thought, but now it throws the blade off the pulleys constantly!




This procedure worked great for me.   blade tracks really straight.

http://wiki.hsbne.org/_media/tools/4x6bandsawadjust.pdf


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## scwhite

Superburban said:


> Looks like the same thing, just double the price. $398.95 with shipping, Vs HF $250 - 25%= $188, + tax.


I agree with you I just bought a new
G4030 from Grizzly they list for $895.
But it is a great saw I love it cuts straight right out of the crate


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## Tinkershed

xplodee said:


> Any tips on how to get one of these saws to stop throwing the blade off? I don't really know where to start on tweaking/tuning this thing. I had it running pretty well I thought, but now it throws the blade off the pulleys constantly!



The trick for keeping it from throwing the blade is to tighten the crap out of it.  You CANNOT overtighten the blade by hand.   You do need to make sure everything is in alignment but the main reason for the blade coming off is that it is not tight enough.   I read about this one one of the bandsaw groups and it made all the difference with mine.    See if that doesn't do the trick.


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## Groundhog

Shadowdog500 said:


> This procedure worked great for me.   blade tracks really straight.
> 
> http://wiki.hsbne.org/_media/tools/4x6bandsawadjust.pdf


Good procedure.
Over a few years I've done most things suggested in the above pdf. Saw works good now. Wish I had this .pdf procedure then! Would have saved me hours of tinkering. I will do the steps I didn't figure out and/or missed soon.


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## xplodee

I followed the procedure in the above referenced PDF and installed a new blade (from McMaster) in the process. Saw is now running like a champ. Thanks all.


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## casca92

blades are on the way  new saw  newest # item
after looking at 2 or more times on the floor at HF
Has anyone else tried to mount this saw on top of the $ 29 dollar roll cart ? not real crazy about working down on my knees.  PRIESTS and  special LADIES work on their knees.

any other ideas

thanx


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## kwoodhands

harrzack said:


> There is an adjustment the tilts the drive wheel left and right from vertical.  I believe this is called 'tracking'.  There should be a bit of a crown to the tire on the wheels...  this helps the blade center itself,  I suspect if you tweek this adjustment you should be able to keep the band inpace



The saw has no tires and the wheels have no crown. If the OP is using the blade that came with the saw ,the blade has probably stretched to the point that it cannot be tightened any more.  Starrett or Morse are good bi-metal blades .


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## keesak

Only responding to this ancient thread because its the only place on the internet that I saw the difference between models described.   To clarify, 62377 appears to be the newer one (just received) and consistent with picture above.  It has the rounded casting and a 2014 rev 16c on manual and the 93762 manual is dated 2006 rev 14e


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## matthewsx

keesak said:


> Only responding to this ancient thread because its the only place on the internet that I saw the difference between models described.   To clarify, 62377 appears to be the newer one (just received) and consistent with picture above.  It has the rounded casting and a 2014 rev 16c on manual and the 93762 manual is dated 2006 rev 14e



Welcome to the forum, lots of good info and helpful people here. 

Oh, and we like pictures so post some of your projects or tools up.

Cheers,

John


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