# Surface Grinder Wheel Balancing Fixture



## Janderso (Jan 11, 2022)

Pinch me, I did it right!
For three days now I’ve been struggling with how to cut the taper. Part of that time was to determine the angle I was to cut.
I have a B&S Micromaster surface grinder. I found a schematic that showed the taper at 3” per foot.
I deduced this to be a 7.125 degree angle.
I made a jig to set up the compound.
I cut the taper to hold a wheel adapter for the balancing fixture, yet to be built. This is the hard part, the rest is easy for me.
I could not be more pleased. The adapters lock up perfectly.
This is big boy stuff!
Now I can finish the arbor by threading for the locking nut.

Ca-Lem is. my inspiration.

Edit, I should add, the random holes in the angle tool was my failed attempt to use my mill dro to cut the tool. I failed to consider the cutter radius and made a big mess of it.
I used my Jo Jo blocks and my compound sine to set the angle and ground it in on the SG.
Oh, first time to turn between centers = slick as can be, simple to set up too.
I’m telling you, this is adult entertainment. For me anyway.


----------



## buffdan (Jan 11, 2022)

Nice job! Thanks for sharing


----------



## DavidR8 (Jan 11, 2022)

Really nice work Jeff!


----------



## NCjeeper (Jan 11, 2022)

I recently made one too. So glad I did because I had a couple of wheels that were way off.


----------



## Janderso (Jan 11, 2022)

Dang man, that’s artwork right there.
I like your rail, simple too.
The challenges of understanding which wheel to use, depth, feed rate, when to dress, which coolant etc has made me realize it’s no accident when it’s done right.
I have no experience so I don’t know if today’s wheels are of inferior quality or if it’s always been like this, but most are out of balance right out of the box.
Rather than spending a bunch of money for adapters that have the sliding weights, I am choosing to balance them by removing material.
This tool will enable me to do it.
It’s good enough for Suburban Tools, it’s good enough for me.


----------



## woodchucker (Jan 11, 2022)

Have you watched Solid Rock on Youtube? He has some really good tips.


----------



## NCjeeper (Jan 11, 2022)

I am still a novice too when it comes to grinding. I figured if I can get the wheels balanced, pick the right wheel for the job, use a tight machine, then that helps to reduce a lot of issues. And then it is basically up to me to get the finish I am looking for.


----------



## Janderso (Jan 12, 2022)

NCjeeper said:


> I recently made one too. So glad I did because I had a couple of wheels that were way off.
> View attachment 391831


How did you cut/shape the base? You must have a CNC mill?


----------



## Stonebriar (Jan 12, 2022)

Here is a link to his build on his Youtube channel. Shameless plug for Tom,


----------



## NCjeeper (Jan 12, 2022)

Janderso said:


> How did you cut/shape the base? You must have a CNC mill?


Nope I am a manual guy. Milled it by hand to close shape and then let the belt sander do the final touches.


----------



## Just for fun (Jan 12, 2022)

Nice job Jeff, Looks great.

NCjeeper,  Your stand is outstanding!  Good Job!


----------



## Janderso (Jan 12, 2022)

NCjeeper said:


> Nope I am a manual guy. Milled it by hand to close shape and then let the belt sander do the final touches.


Ok, I can appreciate the time it takes to do that level of manual work.
This is as far as I got this morning.
It fits perfectly.
Now on to the rest of the journey.
Edit, I should add, I’m going to cut down the length after I build the frame.


----------



## Janderso (Jan 12, 2022)

Stonebriar said:


> Here is a link to his build on his Youtube channel. Shameless plug for Tom,


Tom,
I am pleased to see I cut the taper using your method.
How did you set the taper angle?


----------



## NCjeeper (Jan 12, 2022)

I used a sine bar and a gage block stack on the side of my compound and dialed it in with a DTI.


----------



## Janderso (Jan 13, 2022)

Coming along,
Not fancy at all.


----------



## Janderso (Jan 15, 2022)

Made some more progress.
I’m going to make some brass adjustment screws, concentrate on fit and finish then balance some wheels!


----------



## Janderso (Jan 16, 2022)

I’m about done. Now I need to figure out how to level it On my surface plate.
I should add, it’s very sturdy! That’s what I was hoping for.


----------



## woodchucker (Jan 16, 2022)

Janderso said:


> I’m about done. Now I need to figure out how to level it On my surface plate.
> I should add, it’s very sturdy! That’s what I was hoping for.


I was going to ask about that. I'm wondering if you put a plate in the middle bottom, then get a bullseye type bubble level. While I realize the bubble level may not be accurate to the .0005 per 12" it still should be very good.. just an idea.


----------



## Just for fun (Jan 16, 2022)

Looks mighty fine Jeff, good job!


----------



## jwmelvin (Jan 16, 2022)

Oops I messed up my thinking about adjustment screws and edited to remove. Sorry. 

Edit again. I should look and read before commenting. I like your balancer. I’d like to make one too.


----------



## Janderso (Jan 16, 2022)

I don’t know the process but this method seems to work.
I elevated the device on the three point brass screws.
Then I used my surface plate and a height gauge to get the ground stock at the same height.
I then used my 6” Starrett level to get squared away.
I mounted a wheel on the arbor and checked the balance.
It repeats! I found the same results over and over, marked in red as the light spot.


----------



## Janderso (Jan 16, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> I was going to ask about that. I'm wondering if you put a plate in the middle bottom, then get a bullseye type bubble level. While I realize the bubble level may not be accurate to the .0005 per 12" it still should be very good.. just an idea.


Check my results. I just used the six inch, I have a 12” Starrett and one of those super fussy .0005” in one mile levels


----------



## tq60 (Jan 16, 2022)

Back in the day when at the engine shop they balanced their wheels similar but the base was pairs of overlapping rollers, imagine 2 wheel bearings mounted o opposite sides of the sides.

They are spaced so they will support the shaft between them.

Say you have a pair of 1 inch od bearings.

You mount them via bolts drilled maybe 0.75 apart.

Does not need to be level as the shaft rolls in place.


Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


----------



## Janderso (Jan 19, 2022)

tq60 said:


> Back in the day when at the engine shop they balanced their wheels similar but the base was pairs of overlapping rollers, imagine 2 wheel bearings mounted o opposite sides of the sides.
> 
> They are spaced so they will support the shaft between them.
> 
> ...


That sounds like a good choice.
It did work ok though. I was able to balance two wheels and noticed a marked improvement In surface finish.


----------



## Liljoebrshooter (Jan 19, 2022)

I gotta build one of these.

Looks good.

Joe


----------



## Toolmaker51 (Jan 21, 2022)

tq60 said:


> Back in the day when at the engine shop they balanced their wheels similar but the base was pairs of overlapping rollers, imagine 2 wheel bearings mounted o opposite sides of the sides.
> They are spaced so they will support the shaft between them.
> Say you have a pair of 1 inch od bearings.
> You mount them via bolts drilled maybe 0.75 apart.
> Does not need to be level as the shaft rolls in place.


Those are roller balancers, sometimes referred to as dynamic, though that implies the unit being balanced is spun under power, like a crankshaft machine. 
Rollers use large narrowly crowned wheels, 4 of _identical diameter,_ and very small (proportionally speaking) single row ball bearings, for lowest possible friction & easiest centerline alignment. Commercially, they appear to be hardened, against indentation and friction. 
The A-shaped frames are usually cast, 1 foot pad (may) be a jack screw for stability, a pair of sturdy rods slide in bored holes, also for alignment. Level isn't requirement, but can improve results. I've not seen one sized suitably for wheels less than 10"-12". 
Use of drill/ reamer blanks for rails turns out easier than knife edges, and less prone to damage. Many have a bullseye bubble level for initial setup, shortening tedious indicating. Three screws mean only two need manipulation.


----------

