# Continuing Work on SB 10L Headstock?



## HMF (Feb 21, 2012)

I have a couple questions.

1- the extended gear came off easy, went on easy. I have to take it off a bit to adjust it again.
It isn't really tight since I filed and polished the spindle.
Is it now too loose? Anything I should do? (i.e. threadlock on spindle?)

2- how should I next proceed to work on the headstock now that the extended handlever closer gear is on? 

View attachment 33874

	

		
			
		

		
	
I took a photo of the spindle and gears from above (attached).

Thank you for your help.

Nelson


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## lazyLathe (Feb 21, 2012)

Nelson,

I would buy this book:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-Rebuild-...801?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25622b48c9

I bought the book and rebuild kit for my 9A.
It is full of useful info along with pictures and tips.
Also a list of the correct tooling required.

Andrew


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## HMF (Feb 21, 2012)

I have the book, but haven't read it yet. I need the kit. 

I'm also worried. 
I filed the burrs on the spindle and polished them. I put the gear on before the take up nut, had to remove it, tried to remove it improperly and scarred the side of the gear, then replaced it too deep. The gear fits not loose, but no longer real tight. They don't call me AllThumbz for nothing. So now this all worries me, and I wonder what I do next-work on the bushings, the shims, what?

Nelson


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## irishwoodsman (Feb 21, 2012)

Tony when i mess up like that now and then i use emory cloth to dress up my nicks and scratches cause sometimes a file will take to much off and i keep a bunch of oillite bronze bushings handy, they are oil inpregnated bushings and on these older lathes they are a must, i replaced 16 on my sheldon, all my gears have new bushings now even my 1946 ge electric motor that runs it, just take your time and enjoy the rebuild when it get to the point of being a job step back for a bit have a pop listen to some music relax and go at it again:biggrin:Mac


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## Tony Wells (Feb 21, 2012)

Mac,
 I believe you're talking with Nelson, not me. 

Nelson,
 it isn't likely you did damage to your spindle, unless you really were aggressive with your deburring. I would not put anything to lock it on until I was absolutely certain I was finished taking it off. Then I wouldn't use any permanent locking compound. There are some that bond well, but are removable. Some require heat to break the bond.


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## irishwoodsman (Feb 21, 2012)

oops sorry tony lol


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## Tony Wells (Feb 21, 2012)

S'ok, Mac.


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## 8ntsane (Feb 21, 2012)

Hi Nelson

Regarding the fit of the gear on the shaft you has polished down, just how loose is it? Is it measurable.? As Tony has allready mentioned, your best not to put anything on it , till your done with removing it. There are bearing retainer products that would hold it good and tight, But it could make it a horror show getting it back off in the future. If the shaft has been polished down a measurable amount, then there maybe no choice but seek out a bearing retainer of sorts, Possibly contact Loc-tite, permatex, or try google to search for a hardening type of compound, but a type that will be able to be removed later. You would need to talk to a rep from one of these companys, and tell them exactly what your application is. If this gear is indeed loose fit now, your going to need a product that doesnt turn to powder after applying it.
I would have to think, a good retainer compound will do the job, but might be hell removing the gear later. You might plan for a removal at a later date now. Even if you must make up a custom [puller to do so. 

Good Luck

Paul


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## HMF (Feb 22, 2012)

I bought the machine several years ago from a machine dealer Doug Baker US Machine Works in Michigan.
Due to ineptity and run-ins with people when I went to get help on some venues, I got discouraged and gave up,
and nothing got done. 

Recently, I began looking to try to fix this 10L up. It is a 1978 model, but looks like it was run hard. Came from a shop
run by two guys that was going out of business before I bought it from Doug for $1500 with no tooling. It had a handwheel closer
(was not a toolroom lathe), but I asked him to switch the handlever closer from another 10L he had and he did. The spindle gear
needed to be changed to the extended one.  I smashed the shorter gear off with a hammer and screwdriver, lacking a puller. Realizing
how stupid I was, scarring the spindle and messing up the gear by doing this without the right tool, I let it sit for years.

Recently, after running this forum a year, I decided to pass the reins to someone so I could work on my own machines.
I decided to get the extended gear on. You guys know the rest. I need to remove it again to put it on so that it lines up evenly with the gears.
It isn't tight-tight, but I think it is tight enough on the key to be ok. I noticed the largest gear (bull gear?) has a projection that sticks out
of the side and it is bashed up pretty good. I can take a photo or two. What is that, and what do I do to fix it or replace it?

That's my current situation, and I would appreciate any help in getting this thing back together.

Nelson


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## 8ntsane (Feb 22, 2012)

Nelson

If its just a slight bit loose, you can still tighten it up. I had a guy bring me a pulley from a very old air compresser, He had done the same thing, but he sanded the shaft down, apparently to remove the rust. None the less, I still had to deal with this.

What I did was this. 
I took a piece of key way stock and shaved ot down enough to fit inside the pulley. It took a bit of futzin around but I needed to have the ID of the bore smooth, with out the keyed slot. Here,s why. Next I went through my collection of kurls. I chose a fine pitch knurl, and grabbed a piece out of the scrap bin, and turned it down just a tad bit smaller than the OD of the knurl. I drilled and threaded the end of this shaft, and mounted the kurl.

With this rigged up kurling wheel, I could reach into the bore of this pulley, and with the single knurling wheel, put enough of a pattern on it to tighten up this pulley to fit snug on the shaft. It did take multiple trys, and various amounts of pressure to get this right, but there wasnt to many cheap options available for this guy. This took a loose pulley, and finished gave a snug fit as a end result.
You need your gear to fit tighter, but Im thinking this could work for you too.

Paul


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## Redirish (Feb 22, 2012)

*SB 10L headstock*

Caterpillar markets a product known as " retaining compound ", I don't have the part number at hand, but I believe it is made by Loc-Tite. I have used it for years with excellent results for gears, bearings, sleeves, etc. The part can still be removed easily with a puller, or a drift and hammer. Most likely you can find it under the Loc-Tite brand at a local supplier, or if there is a Cat dealer handy they will have it. Hope this helps.


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## Tony Wells (Feb 22, 2012)

I don't know if you have access to one of these, but might be able to borrow one if you have a plumber friend. A large tubing/pipe cutter like this:



You can run it lightly around the spindle a few places...4-3 I'd say, and it will raise up a small ridge either side of a groove it makes that will tighten up the fit. It would be akin to knurling in principle.

 Or, if you waited until the lathe was running, you could take the gear and run a ball bearing mounted on a stiff piece of shafting at approximately a 45 degree angle and feed it fairly rapidly into the bore, and upset a little metal that way. Not unlike knurling a valve guide in an engine, as far as the effect goes.

Or, if it's really not that loose, just a bit of removable Loc-Tite. Probably what I would do.


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## GK1918 (Feb 23, 2012)

I am pretty sure its the red lock tight that has to be heated not too much. I like it
better than the blue. I learned fast about this stuff years ago in the attempt to
replace a customers U joints on some GM vehicle when on the press it blew up and
went through the wall. Local GM lover said heat em till it drips out.This was in the 70s
I dont know if GMs still does that.


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## Tony Wells (Feb 23, 2012)

They do, as far as I know. That ring is an injected polymer that is pretty tough. You can usually spot a little button of it outside the yoke. A little heat softens it right up.


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## yugami (Feb 23, 2012)

Loctite has a product specifically for gap filling.  Its for use on slightly loose bearings and the like.  Seems like a good fit for this issue.  Not cheap but worth it.  Saved a number of machines in the past using it.


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## 8ntsane (Feb 23, 2012)

Tony Wells said:


> I don't know if you have access to one of these, but might be able to borrow one if you have a plumber friend. A large tubing/pipe cutter like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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