# 1/6th scale 1890's 30ft navy steam cutter (live steam)



## tghsmith

this project started 10 years back when I found the plan book for navy boats 1900,, 2 years ago I came in contact with a full scale steam expert who had the engine and engineering plans.. the 30ftr and 1/6th scale was decided on because a Stuart Turner compound twin engine block is very very close in size.. brass lost wax castings have been completed to convert the ST engine kit to the navy type engine.. while waiting on things, work on the hull brass and fittings has been started.. hope fully the arrival of my LMS 3990 mini mill will speed things up in the engineering dept..


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## tghsmith

casting for the engine conversion.. some of the hull brass.. hull will be 60"


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## tghsmith

ran the new mill today!!!! started working on the steam chest that will be 1/8" thicker than the ST kit's parts.. the new mill works great..


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## macardoso

This is so cool. Please keep pictures coming!


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## tghsmith

did some mill work today,, after making a set of support blocks the casting for the engine bed was leveled and trued.. frame mount pads and crank bearing surfaces machined along with the upper bearing blocks,, valve chest and covers received more work ..  this maddness might work..


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## tghsmith

machined up a jig block to build the engine frames,, added some bolt holes and made clamps to hold everything in place will milling and soldering.. still need to make the truss rods.. waiting on a hardware package from the UK.. might as well keep it all the same tread type..


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## tghsmith

frames got a quick bead blast,, truss rods made this morning.. need to find my bag 4-40 brass washers..  "Groat" the saber-toothed dust bunny floor monster most likely ate them..


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## macardoso

Looking good! Will this actually run or is it a model?


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## tghsmith

plans are for this to be live steam,, running as a true compound engine.. if it was just a model it would have done years ago.. my "normal " work is in 1/96th scale R/C ships..


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## tghsmith

needed to work on some small (and round) parts,, clamped my unimat SL's milling table to the mills table,, used the spindle threaded t-post to mount a 3 jaw chuck,, what would have been an iffy job on the unimat was done in about 2 minutes..( the part is back on the unimat getting the final lathe 
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
work done..)


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## tghsmith

trying to machine a part or two per day,, today was HP cylinder covers,,(back on the little unimat SL lathe) still have some detail work on the top cover, but have to grind a cutter or two..


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## tghsmith

sliced a finger monday in a non metal-working task.. maybe could have needed stitches, decided to just keep it wrapped well and stay away from oils and crud.. did have a small photo-etching project in the works,, the plus side you need to rubber glove to keep the parts clean and the chemicals off your skin.. the boiler makers plate at 1/6th scale is at the lower limit of home etching.. large-sized artwork needed to made in the reverse,, reduced on the computer,, transparencies printed,, to several attempts to get the correct exposure,, the third one looks to be the keeper,, just needs to sawn free with a jewelers saw and edges filed.. it will get tucked away untill the boiler is made..


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## Janderso

Incredible work sir.


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## HarryJM

Amazing work!


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## GDS12

Could you describe the steps you used to do the metal plate etching?  I am looking to doing a couple restorations of things that are missing similar plates that I think were brass...


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## tghsmith

https://www.micromark.com/Micro-Mark-Pro-Etch-Photo-Etch-System_2   basically using a resist layer that protects metal while the etching solution removes metal from the unprotected areas,, a photo reactive layer is adhered to the metal, exposed to UV light while you have a negative of your image overlaying.. the areas were light hits harden,, a developer fluid removes the un-cured regions giving you an etch ready metal piece..


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## MSD0

tghsmith said:


> sliced a finger monday in a non metal-working task.. maybe could have needed stitches, decided to just keep it wrapped well and stay away from oils and crud.. did have a small photo-etching project in the works,, the plus side you need to rubber glove to keep the parts clean and the chemicals off your skin.. the boiler makers plate at 1/6th scale is at the lower limit of home etching.. large-sized artwork needed to made in the reverse,, reduced on the computer,, transparencies printed,, to several attempts to get the correct exposure,, the third one looks to be the keeper,, just needs to sawn free with a jewelers saw and edges filed.. it will get tucked away untill the boiler is made..
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Super glue (cyanoacrylic) works pretty good for cuts.


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## tghsmith

work was for stalled for a few months due to relocation of my workshop,, new shop is a bit smaller but it will have to do,, squared up my castings for the cross-head slippers,, then milled the areas that will ride on the frame slides, both were milled at the same time followed by filing and lapping for a nice fit.. If I hadn't added the DRO's to my little mill this would have taken much longer.. hopefully with the new shop space up and going progress will be a bit better


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## ConValSam

Glad to see you back at it!  Thanks for the update.


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## tghsmith

did some drawing and think I have figured out how to make the connecting rods look like the navy engine and not a stuart,, the stock to make the rods arrived, started the built-up crankshaft, I milled up some width gauges to help with getting the webs correctly spaced.. all has been loctited and pinned waiting a few days before grinding, shaping,cutting and filing.. hoping to have the bottem-end of the engine together in a few weeks..


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## tghsmith

the main bearing tops were fitted, the base was machined for the crankshaft ,, today it may get bored for the crank.. the crank looks much more finished..


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## Boswell

tghsmith said:


> the main bearing tops were fitted ...



this is looking great. Thanks for sharing your progress


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## tghsmith

drilled and reamed the base-frame,, fitted the crank,, the base needs lots of cleaning up and most likely some dremel machining..


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## tghsmith

started working on the connecting rods,, the stirrup straps and small wedges will get interesting,, used my little lathe dog for the first time, I've had it for years it came with my lathe,, used a little "can" aluminum to protect the brass..


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## tghsmith

the bearing were machined for the straps and to fit the rods.. have to admit this LMS mill with the added DRO's can do some great stuff.. 


			https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/ORmxfe.jpg


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## tghsmith

started working on the straps that will hold the rod bearings to the rods,, had to make a fixture to get the correct bends,,


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## Downunder Bob

Great work I always admire these live steam models. The amount of power the produce is quite amazing.


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## tghsmith

basically have the bottom end of this engine together,, completed the "navy" type connecting rods and crossheads.. had to add an 1/8" to the frame feet do to some frame connecting rod interference,, as on today with just the weight of the block holding things in place all is turning nice and smooth.. time to mark,drill and get this bolted together..


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## Downunder Bob

tghsmith said:


> basically have the bottom end of this engine together,, completed the "navy" type connecting rods and crossheads.. had to add an 1/8" to the frame feet do to some frame connecting rod interference,, as on today with just the weight of the block holding things in place all is turning nice and smooth.. time to mark,drill and get this bolted together..



What are Navy type con rods? I've not heard the term before


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## tghsmith

stuart turner con-rods as per plans have a bolt and nut on each side holding them to the crank,, the US navy during this time used a set of bearing blocks fixed to the con-rod with a strap and wedges,, most likely the idea was that if the bearings needed replacement a new set could be installed quickly with minimal shimming or other work needed.. still have a ton of finishing and cleanup work to do..


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## tghsmith

turned some castings into parts in last day or so


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## tghsmith

trimmed the cylinder covers to fit and milled the lower ones to get a flat mounting surface on the frames,, added some brass to the LP valve chest to make it a little more US navy and a little less Stuart Turner.. the cast mounting tabs not needed were ground and milled away,, the block was also cleaned up,, looking to see in the block can have a little more length removed,,


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## tghsmith

made a drilling jig for bolting the block to the frames, added some piston rod guides to aid alignment,, drilled, tapped and reamed.. everything fits.. lots of excess casting to trim away.. starting to look a little more promising..


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## tghsmith

found my castings for the valve shaft/way bar we problematic,, started to make a pair from stock,, they still need the mounting feet soldered in place, hole drilled for the way shaft, outside curves milled and filed.. but they will actually work and look more like the prototype fittings..


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## Boswell

I enjoy seeing your progress on this. Keep up the good work !


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## tghsmith

thanks, I'm only making this up as I go,,  got them looking a little more like they are supposed to look


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## tghsmith

some slow progress, looking more like an engine.. still many more holes to drill and tap in the block, but parts are fitting together,,


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## middle.road

*Wow*.
This projects makes what I'm thinking of doing someday completely bush league.


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## tghsmith

made a fixture to to center the rotary table chuck,, seems to work simple and well,, been busy with other things but did get some work done on flange and guides..


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## tghsmith

learning how to do tight bends in copper tube,, shopmade mandrel required, cerro-bend can be reused,,have extra tube,, getting two bends the correct distance is a pain, swearing required,, lots of annealing,, finally got a good pipe and it all soldered up well..


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## tjb

Incredible work.


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## tghsmith

little update,, slide valve were machined from the kits castings,, decided to try to make the navy type box links,, used the rotary table to make some radius stock,, drilled pilot holes and milled basic shapes while still in the ring form,, sectioned off parts bolted the halfs together and drilled and reamed holes.. drilled some rod and soldered up a little ladder form to cut apart and make the pivot links,, the Stuart turner links would have been so much easier!!! the small rings for the HP cylinder looks craggy and not well made, one was large and hand sanding the end gap cause the ring to fall apart in my hand.. even though I bought the kit well over a year ago, a close up photo of the rings sent to ST resulted in a new set mailed to me...


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## Mini Cooper S

That is outstanding work!


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## Lo-Fi

Just stumbled across the thread, but I'll be following! Lovely


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## tghsmith

made the control arms and started test fitting parts


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## Boswell

This is a fascinating project. Thanks for sharing all of the pictures.


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## tghsmith

back in the shop,, eccentrics turned, rod castings turned into navy looking parts,, found my drag link arms were to short and made a new set,, looks like the valve linkage should all work fine,, brought on a correct 1/6th scale shop assistant,, he doesn't eat or drink much, doesn't get in the way of pictures, but he does want me to skeletonise all the parts..


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## savarin

superb work, cant wait to see it in steam.


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## savarin

superb work, cant wait to see it in steam.


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## tghsmith

piston castings were cleaned up and turned to size, still need profiling on tops and bottoms, rings grooves are waiting on some micro cutters that are on the way.. getting closer all the the time,, the light at the end of the tunnel looks a little less like a train headlamp!!


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## tghsmith

the micro cutters arrived, won them off the auction site for 5.91 shipped,, they look unused.. should work very well on the unimat SL..


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## Boswell

those look great.


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## tghsmith

milled drilled ant tapped the crosshead pivots.. put the crank rods back on the crank to check alignment of piston rods, cylinders and crossheads.. everything turned and stroked well.. profiled the pistons to match the covers,, measurements can be made for the piston rods, did a max piston travel test and compared to the engines stroke all is looking good..


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## tghsmith

made the set of piston rods to replace the work rods the pistons were on,, added some extra holders for the unimats QCTP,, including a 1/8th inch for the micro cutters,, the new cutters made the piston ring grooves fun work,, they worked quickly and precisely and the pistons were completed.. only have a few more parts to left to make.. used the block and steam chest as "ink blocks" and stamped out the patterns on gasket paper,, in looking through my tools found that some micro gouges from model dockyard cut nice small fuzz free holes...


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## savarin

Its about time you fed your apprentice, he's loosing too much weight.


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## tghsmith

slim's weight has been very constant.. he does say food and drink goes right through him.. hot and humid here today, spent a quiet morning making gaskets...


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## tghsmith

started final shaping work on the engine bed,, knocked off the hard corners on the bearing blocks.. needed to make a some jigs to mark,punch,drill and tap the thrust box mounts,, turned and drilled a shaft section to give a good center point to work from,, milled a block to support the bed and mounts while the work was going on.. still making it up as I go along..


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## tghsmith

machined up the thrust box castings, mounted it up, drilled and reamed for the shaft..


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## Karlito26

That is amazing. Cant wait to see more pics and it actually running and sailing.


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## 7milesup

For those interested in brass plate etching, here is a description of how to do it.  Gas Engine Magazine DIY brass nameplates.


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## tghsmith

micro turning day,, decided not to use the stuart type cylinder cocks I bought.. they look good but not scale,, set out to make my own,, made several failures before getting something I liked,, they will get the drain holes drilled closer to final assembly.. made some other parts and gave the blocks valve faces a final finish.. slim is not impressed with my thumbprint..


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## tghsmith

made the valve rods and the link sliding blocks,, yet another morning with the opto-visor on.. some bolt heads and nuts may have to shortened for clearances but it all looks like it will work..


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## Lo-Fi

Really enjoying the updates, keep em coming


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## tghsmith

"carved" some brass today,, slim can get a handle on things now..


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## tghsmith

gave slim some brass to polish,, one of the engine shrouds,, gives the engine a different look,,


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## tghsmith

shrouds completed and soldered together.. fitted things in place just to get a look.. lots of parts


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## tghsmith

had to get the main bearing caps milled and cleaned up,, thought about a fixture doing them one at a time,, came up with another method that worked well,, some sacrificial brass screws were used along with some paper to hold things tight to the shaft,, caps are all milled to the base,, still will need a little file work, holes drilled for the oil cups (and make the oil cups, will have to do a part count for this little engine) needed some more hardware (like the brass cap screws) ordered from BA bolts in the UK,, 2 weeks from online order to mailbox with very good prices..


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## tghsmith

the bearing caps milled well,, they have been drilled for oil cups,, eccentrics had their set screws drilled and tapped, the main frame and base were given a bead blast clean-up,, working on the links and linkages,, getting very close to assembly..


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## benmychree

That type of connecting rod construction is known as "Strap, Gib. & Cotter"  the cotter is the wedge that adjusts the clearance, the gib is the piece that holds the legs of the strap together and provides the taper for the cotter to bear against.


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## benmychree

The type of connecting rod that Stuart uses was known as the "marine type", the Navy type K launch engine used it instead of the type used on the earlier Navy type B engine that is being modeled here.


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## tghsmith

shroud mountings have been taker care of,, insulated the block voids with layers of RTV and cork sheeting..


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## tghsmith

started assembly, used the unimat to put some break-in time on the engine,, like slim this engine has problems standing on it's own, so a quick but functional work stand was made,,


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## Janderso

That is one complicated build, imho.
Looking real good.


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## 7milesup

You say you insulated the block voids with cork and RTV. Does the engine not have any cooling?  Is none required?   Maybe I missed it somewhere in this thread....


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## tghsmith

with a steam engine you are trying keep the heat in the engine,, you spent energy to make the steam you don't want to waste it on cold cylinders..


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## 7milesup

Ah, makes sense.


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## tghsmith

pretty much together, valves set, linkages working smoothly.. might get steam to it next week.. it's a great deal of brass for slim to keep polished..


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## HarryJM

Thoroughly enjoying this thread!


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## 7milesup

tghsmith said:


> pretty much together, valves set, linkages working smoothly.. might get steam to it next week.. it's a great deal of brass for slim to keep polished..



Well, if Slim had more meat on his bones he would probably have an easier time of polishing.


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## savarin

eagerly awaiting a video of it in steam to hear it as well.
Lovely work


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## tghsmith

took a few photos for another site's  virtual show.. the engine and boat parts so far..


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## tghsmith

very very busy with that work crap.. but did manage to make a period correct push-pull throttle valve,, the original would of had a sliding plate,, due to scaling down the plate was replaced with a piston,, seems to work testing with air, will have to see with steam,, there is a drum type that would also be correct. I can modify some existing proven scale throttle plans for that type if needed,, slim seems to think wide open is the only position..


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## tghsmith

finally had a little free time,, did some testing of the engine with air,, it all still very stiff but starting to break in.. 




gave slim the weekend off..


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## tghsmith

well the crank (loctite and pinned) failed at a joint, machined up parts to solder/braze a new crank. my old flux, the steel parts and solder did not get along and only three of the eight joints flowed.. started new parts(again) ordered new flux, including stay-silv high temp black(better for ferrous work) the wonderful packing by the smile box people had this result when the box arrived..no padding in the box, yes they are replacing it.. it's been one of those weeks..


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## jbobb1

Very nice work! This is craftsmanship at it's best! 
Slim seems to be pulling his on weight.


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## tghsmith

soldered up a crank but not completely happy with it.. Decided to try another loctite crank seeing I'm getting really good at making crank webs,, did do some diamond honing to one of my 5/16ths reamers and think the results were much better,, the crank assembled well,, gave slim the job of watching the loctite cure over the weekend..


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## tq60

Have you considered pining the connection?

Cross drill then press in pinto secure.

Solder will keep it from moving and pin hlds against stresses

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


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## tghsmith

both cranks will be pinned,,(as was the the one that failed) setting up the little unimat in drill press mode as it has a much better "feel" for fine drilling the sub 1/16th" holes,, the soldered crank is slightly out of true, have not tried to "adjust" it yet.. the loctight crank went together so nicely,, the webs fit tight but a drop of oil allowed them to slide smoothly,, the 603 wicked in all the joints perfectly as I slid the parts together.. also the shafting is from another source and may have helped it the fit along with the honing of the reamer. (all parts were lightly sanded to give a micro tooth to the surfaces, washed with simple green, followed by an acetone dip.)


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## tghsmith

using my mill at full speed, making sure there was always oil at the drill tip and lots of backing out to clear chips the 8 through holes for pinning were drilled,, cut 1/16th rod for the pins,, each one was sanded a bit for a tight fit..dipped in 603 and they driven in place.. after trimming the crank webs were belt ground to shape,, constant cold water quenching never allowed the crank to get warm.. after a little work on base bearings the crank was fitted,, after a little run in it's tight with no play but will spin with a flick of a finger..still have to cut the shaft sections away, slim claims his involvement caused the better results..


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## tghsmith

a little slow running with the new crankshaft,, it's running much better, it's not even screwed to the wood stand,,


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## middle.road

Amazing. . .


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## tghsmith

should have done this a while back,, grabbed some steel and with some drilling, filing, grinding and sanding I now have a decent pair of 7BA wrenches (if I can keep them out of slim's hands, it's a good thing he doesn't have pockets)


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## tghsmith

mounted the scale non-functioning thrust box,, it may actually help as a shaft support bearing when an eccentric to drive the condensate pump is mounted just outboard of it..


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## tghsmith

the engine is running well and is just down to final finishing (oiler lines, way quadrant, paint and other small details) next is the boiler feed pump, the navy used a small duplex with again their own sailor proof pump end,, it was also mounted vertical with the pump end low in the hull (below the water storage tank levels) this will be small, I took a set of cole's power models pump plans and reduced them by 1/3 giving a pump around 4" long (close enough for that scale vs function thing) over laid some navy pump line drawings and came up with a set of plans,, stock and parts on order, with a few days out of the shop I gave slim some instructions,, evidently he heard "do something with your lazy brass for the next few days" happy thanksgiving!!


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## tghsmith

loctited some brass together and milled the cylinder and pump bores,, started on shaping to blocks, and making the center sections,, turned a set jig rods to help keep things in alignment,,


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## benmychree

So far as I know, the Navy cutters all had vertical simplex feed pumps, I had one once upon a time, plus a cut away demo. Navy K engine and all the original blueprints for it.


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## tghsmith

all the plans and engineering I have show one or two duplex pumps of a sailor proofed navy design.. photo is the pumps and parts for the restored 40ftr from the USS New Jersey.. BB16 (including the bailey condensate pump) I get to try to make of those also.


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## tghsmith

using the rotary table on the mill started "carving" the pump block into shape, lots more work needed..


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## tghsmith

some cool little info on these small duplex pump valve arrangements.. both external and internal crossover type were made.. I'm staying with the external, I'll do watchmaking type work but not swiss watchmaking


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## tghsmith

worked on both ends, an arbor was turned to help mill the cylinder block to shape, steam chest and cylinder heads part were made,, getting lots of small assemblies together that will get silver soldered.. unboxed a new shop toy that shop be a good addition to the model boat/ship shop.. had lots of "help" with the unboxing..


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## tghsmith

the castors on my homemade battleship grade work table started to destruct,, ordered a tool base as the castors were welded on by who-ever made this.. grinder and a big hammer removed the castors, the base assembled to a tight fit and should work well (doesn't more when bumped now) mounted the 3in1 and informed slim that the rollers could take away one of his dimensions!!! Arbor press arrived today, still have to decide on its mounting place,, looking at small vises in the 3-4 inch range that will fit my needs.. also may add hinged work suface to the side of the table.(should have all the needed materials already)


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## rbertalotto

My Lord! To say I'm impressed is an absolute understatement! Such talent. And more importantly, patience!

Thanks for sharing!


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## tghsmith

thanks, keeps me sane or insane, or at least out of the bars... do to where my shop is I'm limited on shop time, this doesn't allow for fast working, but it does force me to think about things and try to plan stuff out.. (lots of rough sketching, but hopefully less of "well that didn't work")


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## rbertalotto

I'm in the other camp....A life long member of the WTDW club!


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## tghsmith

finally got a few minutes to get back on the project,, a little bit of turning with micro cutters and the opti-visor on.. got the blacks turned that will be the cylinders heads.. a few more tools arrived also.. upcycled some RX bottles into a tool holder..


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## tghsmith

work has been crazy so not much shop time,, did clear a section of benchtop and fill it nicely!!!!


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## tghsmith

shop has been tidied up, new tools are set to go, time to get back to work,, laid things out to see how far I have to go.. it will bee a long trip!!


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## tghsmith

made some parts with the new lathe,, the first one went slow, mounting cutters in holders, adjusting and tinkering with the DRO's, second one with everything set-up took less than five minutes.. think I'm going to really like this lathe..


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## tghsmith

turned out another pair of parts in a few minutes now the the tools are set and quick change is living up to the name.. did get a 1/16" wide T profile cut off blade with the new stuff,, works very fast and nice,, will have to add a .040" one to the next order.. having the tach is also great..


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## tghsmith

added spindle collets and tailstock die holder to the lathe goodies,, they aided in making short work of the four main gland fittings..


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## tghsmith

well after some time away started back on this project,, with some tap and die work, a little bit of silver soldering, some quick mill work,, the 8 threaded valve caps for the pump end were made.. they still need a little work and some sealing washers need to made.. slim is back at work inspecting and being judgmental...


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## vtcnc

Nice work! This has been a great thread to follow. 

I'm looking forward to video Slim's maiden voyage on this steam cutter!


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## tghsmith

made a quick centering jig and milled the valve covers to hold the valve springs,, slim seems a little less judgmental today...


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## jbobb1

Nice work! Looks like Slim approves!
By the way, has he been losing weight? He looks a little puny.


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## tghsmith

slim was to the docter a while back,, decribed him as "stable" "very stable"


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## savarin

I know he makes no bones about his weight.


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## tghsmith

getting closer to getting all the parts done and joining the main parts.. did a quick assessment of parts and test fit..


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## tghsmith

started working on the valve internals, turned 2 types, thinking the ball holder type will be the way to go,, quick work using a 1/8"th ball mill.. 7 more and a few spares to turn.. made some gear for slim so he can take on groat (the shop floor monster)


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