# What bench/stand for a 10x18 metal lathe?



## grateexpectations (Jan 8, 2020)

I've done lots of woodworking and even metal lathe work on my school/buddy's lathes, now finally after dreaming about it for years I'm buying a used 10x18 lathe, and unfortunately it does not come with a stand, and the manufacturer discontinued this model / doesn't offer a stand for it.

The fella I'm buying it from was running it on a desk (yes like an office work desk. I didn't ask), which would be too low for me to use comfortably.

The lathe weighs about 200lbs.

These are the benches I'm considering, I'd appreciate some feedback.  Is there anything to must have or must avoid?







Husky 52-inch rolling tool chest






Mastercraft 6-foot bench






DIY wood bench






Rack-style workbench


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## DavidR8 (Jan 8, 2020)

Unless you have an absolute need for mobility I would avoid something on wheels. 
I have my 9" South Bend on a wooden bench with a top made from laminated 2x4's on edge. It's very rigid, stable and absorbs vibration well.


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## Nogoingback (Jan 8, 2020)

In general, it's desirable to have a bench that's strong enough and has enough mass to prevent movement and minimize
vibration while under power.  Store bought, but inexpensive work benches like the Mastercraft shown aren't rigid enough
to do that in my opinion.  For a small lathe, a tool box like the Husky would work, though I would probably add a piece of plywood and a chip pan or sheet steel to the top and ditch the castors for some machine mounts.  Having said that, with your woodworking experience I'd suggest a heavy wooden bench boxed in with plywood.  Properly designed it can be plenty strong and if you have left over lumber in your shop it can be built cheaply.  You can also tailor the height to your requirements and build in shelves that suit you.


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## MontanaLon (Jan 8, 2020)

Wood can be entirely adequate once you get past the point of thinking weight equals rigidity. David's idea of a bench with a top made of on edge 2x4's is a solid one, pun intended, but if you can source some oak slabs and glue them up into a 4" top you will be better off. Build in a way to level it and anchor it down securely to a concrete floor and it will likely last forever. If you need it to move then leveling jacks that raise it off the wheels will be better than just sitting on the wheels. You will need to be mindful of out of balance turning as it will want to dance on you but with hobby turning it shouldn't be a problem.


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## mikey (Jan 8, 2020)

If I were going to mount a small lathe like yours, I would opt for the tool chest myself. I would replace the casters with leveling casters from Carrymaster for a solid foundation. Lots of guys have their small lathes mounted on similar chests and I can't recall hearing any complaints. Plus, look at all the storage you will have. As a hobby machinist, space is a very big deal and you'll be happy you have it.


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## grateexpectations (Jan 8, 2020)

Interesting
Thinking out loud here, I could use a tool chest and build some outriggers underneath with screw jacks/feet to lift the wheels off the ground while in use.  If screwed to the underside of the tool chest it can also reduce tip-over risk.


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## grateexpectations (Jan 8, 2020)

Maybe this, but seems a bit lightweight




Those are canadian dollars, equivalent to about 269 USD


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## francist (Jan 8, 2020)

I'm thinking you may likely increase your own personal tip-over risk from having those outriggers sticking out along the floor like that, but that's just me.

I have two small lathes on individual stands/benches whatever you want to call them. Both are custom built to suit my preference for working height. I also make sure I incorporate space for my feet and clearance for my knees. I find nothing more annoying than having to stand sideways at a counter or work surface for a couple hours at a time because there is no toe kick space or setback in the cabinet faces to allow some room in front of my legs. It's just plain uncomfortable and leads to a sore back from having to lean forward all the time. Something to think about if you're considering a monolithic setup.

-frank


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## mikey (Jan 8, 2020)

Have a look at TerryH's install. He did a really nice job.

Leveling feet would be great but I agree with Frank, they might trip you up. Look into Carrymaster casters.


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## mickri (Jan 8, 2020)

My vote is for a stand with at least some drawers/roll out shelves.  My stand has fixed shelves.  Real pain to have to get down on your hands and knees to get something off the bottom shelves.  Even the higher shelves would be nicer if they could be pulled out.  I have seen some ingenuous stands where the wheels pivoted down.  Do a search for "work benches with retractable wheels" and you will get more ideas than you can shake a stick at.

If you don't need to move your lathe, you will be better off with it attached to the floor.


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## Winegrower (Jan 8, 2020)

I can’t see that a 200 pound lathe needs anything very unique.   A card table might be a bad idea, but about anything else should work.


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## tweinke (Jan 8, 2020)

grateexpectations said:


> Maybe this, but seems a bit lightweight
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I have that bench under my Shoptask 3 in 1. There is very little support under the top. I added extra bracing and what not where possible. In hindsight it is not very ridged with a 700lb machine on it I think partly because of its bolt together design. So my opinion its a poor choice.


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## Long Roof (Jan 9, 2020)

I have my Grizzly G0602 lathe on a Harbor Freight tool box with casters. Stability is not an issue, at least not that I have noticed but the lathe is too high. I am 5'-10" and need to stand on a stool to adequately see what I am working on. I like the convenience of drawers but a new base is in order for me. It seems like the spindle centerline should be about elbow height. My tool box is 40" high and the lathe spindle is about 52" when on the box.

I have been using the lathe much more since I retired and high on my list is to make a new stand for the lathe. I do like having casters to move the lathe when needed, but I will incorporate some sort of retractable casters.


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## Aaron_W (Jan 9, 2020)

I don't know if you have Harbor Freight in Canada, but their US General tool boxes are sturdier than the Husky boxes. Of course they cost more too.

I have both, a top and bottom 27" Husky as well as a 26" and 44" US General. The Husky boxes are nice, but noticeably lighter built. I also like the US General boxes better for machine tools due to the drawer layout.


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## grateexpectations (Jan 11, 2020)

Thanks all for the ideas.


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## Tio Loco (Jan 11, 2020)

Agreed... 44" USG with leveling casters...


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## twowhites (Aug 5, 2021)

Tio Loco said:


> Agreed... 44" USG with leveling casters...
> 
> View attachment 310256


Which leveling casters did you use for the U.S. General cabinet? The caster mounting plates on this toolchest are larger than standard, and I haven't found a leveling caster that would mount directly on it. Did you have to fashion an adapter plate?


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## Tio Loco (Aug 5, 2021)

twowhites said:


> Which leveling casters did you use for the U.S. General cabinet? The caster mounting plates on this toolchest are larger than standard, and I haven't found a leveling caster that would mount directly on it. Did you have to fashion an adapter plate?


@twowhites I made custom mount plates from a 4" wide chunk of 1/4" steel. It's a little tricky as you need holes for the tool box and tapped holes for the casters. I'll see if I can get my phone down there and get a decent pic, but it's just takes some planning.


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## twowhites (Aug 5, 2021)

Tio Loco said:


> @twowhites I made custom mount plates from a 4" wide chunk of 1/4" steel. It's a little tricky as you need holes for the tool box and tapped holes for the casters. I'll see if I can get my phone down there and get a decent pic, but it's just takes some planning.


The photo would be greatly appreciated. Are you happy with the brand of leveling casters you used? There are a whole lot of choices out there and some of them get really pricey.


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## Tio Loco (Aug 6, 2021)

twowhites said:


> The photo would be greatly appreciated. Are you happy with the brand of leveling casters you used? There are a whole lot of choices out there and some of them get really pricey.


Here you go... not easy to get pix of them...







As you can see, I mounted the feet on the diagonal to clear the toolbox mounting bolts. I also stacked three washers on each bolt between the mount plate and the toolbox to add some clearance for the caster bolts to have full thread engagement into the mount plate.

I'm perfectly happy with the casters, they don't get much use in caster mode, and it's still a beast to roll when needed, but they are plenty sturdy for this application. Looking at all of the ones out there, I got the feeling that just like machines, most of them come from the same factory, and pricing is just marketing. YMMV.


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## twowhites (Aug 6, 2021)

Tio Loco said:


> Here you go... not easy to get pix of them...
> 
> View attachment 374533
> 
> ...


The photos are excellent. Thank you and I appreciate the effort to take the shots. I would not have thought to mount the caster plates on the diagonal - very clever approach.


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## Tio Loco (Aug 6, 2021)

twowhites said:


> The photos are excellent. Thank you and I appreciate the effort to take the shots. I would not have thought to mount the caster plates on the diagonal - very clever approach.


It was pretty much a requirement as the holes in the toolbox overlap the caster holes just enough to render both useless. Necessity is the mother, you know?


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## twowhites (Aug 25, 2021)

I don't know if anyone will ever need this, but the attached photo shows the U.S. General 44" x 22" rolling cabinet caster plate dimensions.


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## ARC-170 (Aug 28, 2021)

If you put it on wheels, wouldn't it flex when you move it, then you'd have to level the ways again?

I bought a used tool box on CL and built a wood table around them that is bolted to the floor and the wall. I used 4x4's for the legs and horizontal cross members and two layers of 3/4" plywood (screwed and glues together) and 16 Ga sheet metal for the top. I used MDF for the façade and painted everything to match the garage. Storage AND sturdiness!


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