# Old Bridgeport Gets New Lease On LIFE



## rb67mustang (Oct 2, 2021)

Hi, Everyone, I joined the group a short time ago looking for help to wire a drum switch for my 3 Phase to Single Phase Conversion. I worked as a Machinist for 21 years, and then the unthinkable happened, I was injured on the job and that ended my career. There are two things I miss the most from my Machinist days. I miss many of the guys I worked with, and I miss doing Government Jobs (Personal Jobs). 

I have many interests and a few hobbies, but my hobbies revolve around making things that require machine shop equipment. So, since my last day as a Machinist, I've wanted a Bridgeport and a Lathe. I have a small Harbor Freight metalworking lathe I inherited from my Dad. I didn't like it at first because it wasn't big enough, but I've made parts on it that pushed its limits and I gained some respect for it. I still want a bigger lathe, but I finally have an old Bridgeport that needs some work, but it's mine. 

It's a 1hp step-pully J Head and according to the serial number on the saddle, it was made in 1974. The biggest problem the machine has is that the Ram is frozen from being stored in a damp place. It had a power feed on the X-axis and the Y-axis screw has excessive backlash. The Y-axis hand crank is broken and I think that has something to do with the backlash problem. Also, the back gear handle and the quill feed selector were stuck. 

I completed the conversion from 3 phase to single phase and I had it running for the first time since I bought it on September 29th. But, I'll start this thread from the beginning. Enough background, here are a few images. 
1st photo is the day I bought it. Notice broken and missing items.
Next photo is the day after in my garage.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 2, 2021)

The first thing I did was to assess what was missing and broken, and I took a bunch of photos to show the progress. Then I removed the original motor because I don't have 3 phase power and I didn't want to go the phase converter route. Then I made a slide hammer out of things I had on hand to free up the back gear and the quill feed handles. 
1. Broken & missing parts on quill feed.
2. The X screw isn't short, the power feed was removed and probably sold.
3. Stuck in back gear.
4. Missing clock retainer screw and quill handle.
5. Broken Y crank and missing knee crank.
6. Broken knee lock handle.
7 & 8.  Broken motor lock handles on both sides.
9. Motor removed.
10. homemade slide hammer.

Here is how I freed up the stuck back gear handle/plunger.
The slide hammer is made up of a 1/4-20 coupling nut, 1/4-20 threaded rod, washers, assorted 1/2 inch drive sockets as the hammer, and one standard 1/4-20 nut. To free up any plunger handles, remove the 1-inch bakelite ball and screw on the coupling nut, and then assemble the slide hammer. Pull the plunger out and push it back in while applying WD-40 until it's working freely, and then reattach the bakelite ball. 

That's it for now, more simple repairs to come.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 2, 2021)

Short video of freeing up the back gear plunger.



BTW, the quill feed selector was freed up easier than the back gear handle. I guess moisture didn't get into the quill feed selector as easily as the back gear handle.
That's it for tonight, more progress later.


----------



## Steve-F (Oct 3, 2021)

Welcome  Do you have the X-axis lead screw support on the right side? I wished I had the room for a machine like that


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 3, 2021)

Steve-F said:


> Welcome  Do you have the X-axis lead screw support on the right side? I wished I had the room for a machine like that


Thanks, Steve for the welcome!!! My Bridgeport at one time had a power feed on the table. The original power feed was coupled onto the x-axis lead screw and that's why it looks short. I bought one of the Cheap Chinese power feed units from E-bay, and I will have to make a shaft for it to connect to the x-axis lead screw. I didn't take a photo of the power feed I bought, but here's a link to E-bay to show you what I got. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154360416870

The attached image is from the E-bay listing.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 3, 2021)

After my slide hammer show, I decided it was time to clean the nasty looking table (I still need to clean the T slots). I used WD-40 and a Scotch Brite pad. I also lightly rubbed the ways to clean them up. Oops, I need to go out photos to follow.


----------



## Norseman C.B. (Oct 3, 2021)

rb67mustang said:


> Thanks, Steve for the welcome!!! My Bridgeport at one time had a power feed on the table. The original power feed was coupled onto the x-axis lead screw and that's why it looks short. I bought one of the Cheap Chinese power feed units from E-bay, and I will have to make a shaft for it to connect to the x-axis lead screw. I didn't take a photo of the power feed I bought, but here's a link to E-bay to show you what I got. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154360416870
> 
> The attached image is from the E-bay listing.



That's the same unit I put on my Acra mill this past fall works great.................


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 3, 2021)

Norseman C.B. said:


> That's the same unit I put on my Acra mill this past fall works great.................


Thanks, Norseman, it looked like a good unit and after seeing in in person when it arrived, I think its worth the money I paid for it. Before buying it, as I searched on E-bay, I found an old Bridgeport power feed like what my machine should have had for $600 dollars. So a guy could throw this unit away when it dies and buy three more of them and pay less than the old original unit I found.

When I get home I'll add more to my thread.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 3, 2021)

OK, so as I cleaned the table & ways, I noticed that there was way oil in the Bijur Oiler, so I gave it a few pumps as I moved the table, cross slide and knee the full length of their travel. The machine still needs a major cleaning. 

I ordered a clamp set and a set of V Blocks I'll be using on the first job. Little by little I'm getting what I need. My Bridgeport's main purpose is to make parts for my other Hobbies, not to start a business. LoL!

Note: I mentioned cleaning; it was more like an initial cleaning so I didn't get really dirty as I'm working on it.
Image Captions:
1. Table as purchased
2. Saddle as purchased
3. Bijur as purchased
4 through 8, after initial cleaning


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 3, 2021)

This is an interesting video that I made before the initial clean up. I'm moving the quill up and down for the first time. The quill handle walked away long before I got the machine, and I was excited that it moved as easily as it did after sitting for an unknown amount of time. Sorry, the video is jumpy because I'm holding my cell phone.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 3, 2021)

This video shows the head off to the side so I had lots of room to clean. I explain the Ram being stuck/seized up as well as the excessive backlash on the Y-axis screw. That's it for today.


----------



## Norseman C.B. (Oct 3, 2021)

rb67mustang said:


> This video shows the head off to the side so I had lots of room to clean. I explain the Ram being stuck/seized up as well as the excessive backlash on the Y-axis screw. That's it for today.



PB Blaster is your friend fer gittin the ram loosened, up spray and tap the ram with a dead blow hammer and rock the drive handle spray let it sit fer a while repeat till it works loose ..........................BE PATIENT  and persistant .................... 
OH yeah pull the lock bolts out and spray the PB in them too.................


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 4, 2021)

Norseman C.B. said:


> PB Blaster is your friend fer gittin the ram loosened, up spray and tap the ram with a dead blow hammer and rock the drive handle spray let it sit fer a while repeat till it works loose ..........................BE PATIENT  and persistant ....................
> OH yeah pull the lock bolts out and spray the PB in them too.................


Thanks for your idea, Norseman, I'll give it a try and I'll let you know how it went.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 5, 2021)

Next, I searched for a suitable 110v motor, drum switch, aluminum plate to mount the motor, and much needed accessories such as, 6" Vise, Collets, Drill Chuck, and the missing Draw Bar, Quill Handle & Knee crank. The Draw Bar, Quill Handle & Knee Crank are Bridgeport replacement parts and not Chinese knock-offs, because I wanted them to fit properly and last longer than I'll own the machine. Some things you just can't skimp on quality. So it looks like I don't have any photos of the drawbar, vice, and the drum switch when they arrived. I prefer a keyless drill chuck. The one I bought is a lookalike of the finely crafted German chuck I had back in my Machinist days. The collets are most likely Chinese as is the Kurt lookalike 6" vice.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 5, 2021)

OK, now I'll get into the motor conversion I did so I didn't have to use a phase converter. I chose to use a flange mounted motor for ease of mounting. Most flange mounted motors also come with the standard mounting bracket which I used to my advantage as a solid place to mount the drum switch.

I don't have a good place to purchase raw material, ie, aluminum plate, or whatever I need to make the parts I need for a given project. Sometimes I buy from Ebay, or I search for the best price online in my home state, or someplace in the USA.

So, I overthought/stressed about the mounting plate thickness for a couple of days, and then I took a good look at the BP (Bridgeport) motor and its replacement. The BP motor shaft is 2 1/4" inches long vs the 1 7/8" long shaft on the replacement motor. But then it HIT ME that the BP motor housing extends 3/4" of an inch below its mounting face. Now that's a problem, and it just shortened the shaft length of the replacement motor.

OK, so I bought a 1/4" x 10" x 12' aluminum plate to mount the motor from Ebay. Then I took measurements off of the top of the BP belt housing and laid out and cut the plate, drilled the holes for the motor lock studs and the motor mounting holes, and then I cut the middle hole for the motor to fit. Notice the very dirty belt housing! I cleaned it up after I took the measurements and made a sketch for the new motor mounting plate.

Next, I had to slightly undercut the motor lock studs to account for the 1/4" inch thick plate I used. I didn't take a photo of the studs afterward but looking at the 4th image showing the studs mounted onto the plate, shows the studs are threaded at each end. One end is a 1/2-13 thread and the other end is a 3/8-24 thread. So the thin shoulder that's created between the two threads is how the studs are bolted in place on the motor mounting flange/plate.

Here's what the new mounting plate looks like in place (image 5), and we also see the much cleaner belt housing. Also, notice how the motor mounting holes are oriented. This allowed the motor mounting bracket to be positioned on the original BP drum switch side of the machine so I could mount the replacement drum switch in the same place. Anyone who's ever operated a BP will instinctively know where the fwd/rev switch is located without even looking.

If you take a close look at the piece I used to mount the drum switch, you can see a radius cut into it; it's a scrap piece from the new motor mounting plate.

The next post will reveal how I overcome the 3/4" inch loss due to the differences between the two motors.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 11, 2021)

Hi Everyone,
I've been busy, but I'm going to get my thread up to date. So, I left everyone hanging on how I fixed the motor offset/shaft length issue; it's simple, I attached a hub onto the BP step pulley. How I made the hub was interesting, but I didn't take any photos of the process because I never thought I'd be sharing my BP project.

First, here's an image of the unfinished hub before attaching it to the pulley. It's slightly under 3 inches in diameter and an inch thick with a 1/2 inch hole in it. It was turned on the Harbor Freight Hobby 7" x 10" Lathe. It would've been great if I had a piece of 3" aluminum rod stock hanging around, but that wasn't the case.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 11, 2021)

After the fact photos of making the pulley hub, here's the remainder of the piece of the aluminum plate I made it from. Here's the Old Granger cutoff saw I used to cut the block of aluminum to make the hub. I got the saw from my Dad before he passed away. As you can see, it doubles as a band saw for cutting small parts. This piece was about 2 1/4" x 3" x 3 1/2," the side I cut off had a saw cut face, so I cut it thick enough that it would finish up at 1 inch thick.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 11, 2021)

OK, so picture this piece with a 3" circle scribed on the saw cut face and center punched to drill a 1/2" hole in it. Then I drilled the hole and I rough cut the circle in a Wood Cutting Harbor Frieght Bandsaw with a metal cutting blade in it. BTW, I also received the Band Saw from my Dad.
Then, I used a piece of 1/2-13 threaded rod that's long enough to go through the 7"x10" lathe spindle and hold the rough cut piece. To do this. there's a nut and washer on the end of the threaded rod against the end of the spindle with the threaded rod clamped in the 3 jaw chuck. Then another nut is tightened against the chuck jaws. now the rough cut disk is placed on the threaded rod and one more nut to tighten the heck out of it.

Yes, this isn't the best way to turn a blank, but the lathe can't take a big cut either. So light cuts on the O.D to clean regardless of the diameter, and face the exposed side close to the nut holding it on the threaded rod. Then remove the partially finished blank and remove the threaded rod, and change the chuck jaws to hold the O.D. of the blank. Then, I faced the blank to 1 inch thick, and I finish bored the I.D. to size.

That's how I made the pulley hub.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 11, 2021)

Then I turned a pilot and polished it to 0.0005 smaller than the bore size to align the hub & pulley. Then clamp the hub onto the pulley to drill & tap & ctbre four 1/4-20 holes.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 11, 2021)

OK, so the hub was finished and attached to the pulley. The question is, how did I broach/create the keyway?

So, I don't like to admit this, but I know I'm not the only guy with this problem. I either have the money and I don't have the time, or I have the time and not the money. Well, more times than not, I have plenty of time. So how did I cut the keyway? "Cut," is the word!!! Lol

I laid out the keyway at 45 degrees from the bolt circle. Then I used a Dewalt Scrollsaw to cut out the two sides of the keyway. Yes, the scroll saw is made to cut wood, but I've cut coins on it using jeweler's blades as well. Yes, the jeweler's blades have very fine teeth which should never be used to cut something 1 inch thick.

As expected, it took a very long time to make the two cuts, and I destroyed a half dozen blades doing so. Then I held the hub in a bench vise and I used a hacksaw to cut from each cut at a 45 degree angle to the depth of the two scrollsaw cuts. Then I cut the bottom of the keyway in scrollsaw.

Lastly, I hand filed a bit on each side of the keyway to fit the key.

So, this time consuming process may have saved me only 30 dollars. The time saved to find a place to have the keyway cut was worth it to me. Needless to say, I hope I never have to cut another keyway like this one. Or maybe I should say, "Don't do this at home boys & girls, we're Trained Professionals!!!!!!!!!!! LOL!
	

		
			
		

		
	



Sorry, the image is slightly out of focus, but the scribed lines are visible.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 11, 2021)

Next, I made a mounting bracket for the Drum Switch and I mounted it on the motor. The switch mount was made from a scrap piece from the new motor mounting plate (sorry, no photo, but I will share an image that shows it). The switch is closer to the front of the machine than the original that was built into the BP Motor, but the switch isn't in the way of the brake handle. Then I reached out to Ulma Doctor. for his help wiring the switch.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 11, 2021)

Ulma Doctor has a video on YouTube showing the exact same switch I got for this project and he didn't show the wiring diagram on YT, but in the video description, he said for a detailed wiring diagram go to hobbymachinist.com. I credit the good Dr. for joining this fine group of like minded guys who have been a great help to me and this project.

Here's a link to Ulma Doctors project which got me to join Hobby Machinist: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...-switch-and-drum-switch-retrofit.85448/page-3


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 11, 2021)

Enough talk, here's what was done. First, the switch was mounted. OK, so as promised, take a close look at the 2nd & 3rd images to see the switch bracket I made. Next, using the wiring diagram molded onto the inside of the switch cover as well as the plate on the motor, I tried to test wire the motor on the bench before doing the actual Finish wiring and installing the motor on the BP. Here are a couple of wire salad photos of my feeble attempt to wire the switch to no avail. Then after a couple of days, Ulma Doctor drew a simple wiring diagram for all of us Non-electricians to understand. But still, nothing because one of the wires was omitted from the drawing.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 11, 2021)

Then, markba633csi joined the conversation with the correct placement of the last wire, and Sucess, the Motor came to LIFE in both Forward and Reverse. Now, since this is a single phase motor, the BP brake must be used to completely stop the motor before reversing the motor's direction. 

Next, the finish wiring begins!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 11, 2021)

I bought this drum switch on E-bay, and yes, it's Chinese, but it fit the budget. The switch is said to be weather resistant thus the location chosen for the wires to enter the switch should face toward the ground if used outdoors. But, as you will see, the wire entry location doesn't allow much room for the wire. Hey, it's Chinese, what can I say? But no worries, the side has more room for my application, so here come two new holes.

OK, so the last image shows two wires entering the same wire clamp. This is most likely a BIG No-No and not what an Electrician would ever do. To be honest, I was going to use a flexible waterproof conduit between the switch & motor to pull the wires through, but due to the close proximity between the switch & motor, it would have kinked and wouldn't have worked. 

Oh well, it's bag enough I'm using two pieces of the same wire coming out of the motor, but as you will see, I clearly marked each wire.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 11, 2021)

Next comes the power cord into the switch. Then the wiring is completed and tested. The last image is a redrawn wire diagram.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 11, 2021)

The original BP motor and the new single phase motor are shown side by side.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 11, 2021)

Now a short benchtop motor test video before heading out to the garage to install the new motor.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 11, 2021)

Before I mounted the new motor on the old BP, I made the new motor lock handles out of 1/2 inch aluminum rod stock on the 7"x10" HFL (Harbor Freight Lathe). I drilled & tapped each end 1/4-20 and on one end, I used a dab of blue Locktite to secure a short piece of threaded rod. I will do the same to the exposed ends of the handles when I get the 1 inch black plastic knobs.

Being a Machinist, I never took the time to read through the owner's manual for the HF lathe. Then one day I was curious to know if collets could be used with this lathe. I removed the 3 jaw chuck and I was pleasantly surprised to find that the spindle has an MT1 taper. So, I got a set of 8 collets off of E-bay from 1/8" up to 3/4." I also made my own faceplate that attaches to the 3 Jaw chuck with the jaws removed. A piece of 1/2-13 threaded rod holds it in place.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 12, 2021)

Finally, the moment I've waited for, seeing & hearing my Old BP coming to life, and listening to hear if the spindle bearings are good, or bad. I was very happy the spindle of my $900 dollar BP is OK. I think the single phase motor makes more noise than the BP motor, but it's a small price to pay to add a BP to my Home Shop. Sorry, the fluorescent lighting makes the photos look strange.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 12, 2021)

Here's a short video of the BP coming to LIFE for the first time in my shop/garage at 7:46 PM on September 29, 2021. I'm sorry the video is a bit jumpy, but it is what it is. Notice the cloud of dust coming out of the pulley housing when the motor started.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 12, 2021)

Presently, I'm trying to free up the stuck ram. Then I'll mount the new X-axis power feed, and fix the quill feed mechanism as well as addressing the Y-axis leadscrew backlash.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 12, 2021)

rb67mustang said:


> Here's a short video of the BP coming to LIFE for the first time in my shop/garage. I'm sorry the video is a bit jumpy, but it is what it is. Notice the cloud of dust coming out of the pulley housing when the motor started.


Thanks, wachuko, and Steve F, I enjoyed getting this Old BP running again. I hope the simple wiring diagram is a help to others like myself who are not electricians.


----------



## jmarkwolf (Oct 12, 2021)

rb67mustang said:


> Presently, I'm trying to free up the stuck ram. Then I'll mount the new X-axis power feed, and fix the quill feed mechanism as well as addressing the Y-axis leadscrew backlash.


I had a stuck ram on my old Bridgeport some years back. I shot penetrating oil everywhere I could, even removed the pinion gear and shot more oil in there. Put a long bar clamp on to apply pressure overnight, and just before I was about to turn the lights off for the night, I noticed that the magic marker line I had placed across the seam had split by about 1/4". I put the pinion back in and started working it back and forth. Shortly I had the ram excursion up to a few inches. I doused it with more oil and called it a night. 
Over the next day or so, I had freed it up to full excursion.
So before you start whacking on it with a BFH, try liberal doses of penetrating oil and a bar clamp.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 12, 2021)

jmarkwolf said:


> I had a stuck ram on my old Bridgeport some years back. I shot penetrating oil everywhere I could, even removed the pinion gear and shot more oil in there. Put a long bar clamp on to apply pressure overnight, and just before I was about to turn the lights off for the night, I noticed that the magic marker line I had placed across the seam had split by about 1/4". I put the pinion back in and started working it back and forth. Shortly I had the ram excursion up to a few inches. I doused it with more oil and called it a night.
> Over the next day or so, I had freed it up to full excursion.
> So before you start whacking on it with a BFH, try liberal doses of penetrating oil and a bar clamp.


Thank you very much for the advice, jmarkwolf. I actually took a block of wood and a 3lb hammer and lightly hammered on the edge of the ram and on a couple of places on the turret (the part the ram slides in and out on). I would never directly hammer on a machine. You mention a Bar Clamp. Do you mean a furniture clamp? I'm also not sure where you attached the clamp. I've seen a video of a guy using a nylon ratchet strap to try and move his stuck ram, and I tried that with no results.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 12, 2021)

Ok, so this video says it all, and I mention the head dropping 10 degrees when I loosened the studs to elevate the angle of the head. I had to use a bottle jack to raise the head back to zero because the worm gear on the knuckle is worn out.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 12, 2021)

Here's one more video from today; it's worth watching to hear my confession. BTW, the 1st run with the single phase motor was on 9/29/21.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 13, 2021)

rb67mustang said:


> Here's one more video from today; it's worth watching to hear my confession. BTW, the 1st run with the single phase motor was on 9/29/21.


Thanks, Steve, for the like.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 13, 2021)

IT'S FREE!!! The RAM is FREE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I made four short videos this morning after I was finally able to move the ram. I will upload them here shortly, so I don't want this message to be too long. It's as jmarkwolf mentiond, "he split the line." I think everyone with a stuck ram makes a line with a Sharpie as an indication of movement. I was very happy at 11:22 AM today when I split the line.

Image #2 my SBFH, #3 Block of wood lightly beaten by SBFH. #6&7 Before & After Scotchbrite. #8&9 Opposite side before & after.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 13, 2021)

Ram fully extended moments after the first 1/4 inch of movement. This morning's progress was absolutely Great!!!


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 13, 2021)

PB Blaster was getting into the dovetail joint, but I think the light shock treatment yesterday afternoon helped as well.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 13, 2021)

Last video of this Victorious Day of progress.


----------



## jwmelvin (Oct 13, 2021)

Congrats! That is a nice accomplishment and makes thing a lot closer to where they should be.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 13, 2021)

Thank you very much, jwmelvin. It was a battle, but thankfully, I won this round.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 13, 2021)

rb67mustang said:


> OK, so the hub was finished and attached to the pulley. The question is, how did I broach/create the keyway?
> 
> So, I don't like to admit this, but I know I'm not the only guy with this problem. I either have the money and I don't have the time, or I have the time and not the money. Well, more times than not, I have plenty of time. So how did I cut the keyway? "Cut," is the word!!! Lol
> 
> ...


Thank's for the like, Firstram.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 13, 2021)

Norseman C.B. said:


> PB Blaster is your friend fer gittin the ram loosened, up spray and tap the ram with a dead blow hammer and rock the drive handle spray let it sit fer a while repeat till it works loose ..........................BE PATIENT  and persistant ....................
> OH yeah pull the lock bolts out and spray the PB in them too.................


Norseman C.B.:, the PB Blaster and a bit of shock treatment did the trick. Thank's again!


----------



## jmarkwolf (Oct 15, 2021)

rb67mustang said:


> You mention a Bar Clamp. Do you mean a furniture clamp? I'm also not sure where you attached the clamp.



Irwin quick grip style clamps is what I used. Rubber tips prevent any marring.



			Amazon.com


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 15, 2021)

jmarkwolf said:


> Irwin quick grip style clamps is what I used. Rubber tips prevent any marring.
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com


Thank you again, jmarkwolf, I should have known, I have a couple of those that are probably 24." I think you've noticed that the Ram is finally Free. My BP is in my garage; it's dry out there and the roof doesn't leak, but it's not heated. My plan is to move the ram once a week through it's full travel and keep it lubed. I wonder what the best lubricant would be for the ram seeing the dovetail is a very close fit?


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 15, 2021)

rb67mustang said:


> Here's a short video of the BP coming to LIFE for the first time in my shop/garage at 7:46 PM on September 29, 2021. I'm sorry the video is a bit jumpy, but it is what it is. Notice the cloud of dust coming out of the pulley housing when the motor started.


Thanks for the like, devils4ever, I appreciate you taking a look at my project.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 22, 2021)

Now the Ram is Free, I removed the ram locks, cleaned and greased them and then reinstalled. Moving the Ram with a ratchet hold down strap worked, but it was a bit of a pain in the butt. 

Images: #1 Both Locks removed, cleaned & Greased. #2 Front lock pocket cleaned. #3 Lock in place and head set at 0 Degrees. #4 Ratchet Strap in place ready to pull the ram forward.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 22, 2021)

Video Ram pulled forward with ratchet hold down strap'


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 22, 2021)

Rear Ram Lock reinstalled and ready to move the Ram Backward.




Ram Finished shop cleaned up a bit to move the machine away from the wall


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 22, 2021)

I'm finish with the Ram. Now to move the machine away from the wall so the ram has its full range of movement.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 22, 2021)

Video of the Move from the wall.


----------



## Steve-F (Oct 23, 2021)




----------



## jmarkwolf (Oct 23, 2021)

Good job mustang! My old Bridgeport had been moved by Bubba and his forklift under the dove tails without any cushion, damaging the forward end of the dovetails. Consequently, I was never to get complete excursion on my ram, but almost. Certainly more excursion than I ever needed.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 23, 2021)

Steve-F said:


>


Thank you very much, Steve. I have more to post later today. I fixed the Y axis problem and it was so easy when I realized what the problem was. I also started to mock up the power feed to figure out the shaft I need to make for it.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 23, 2021)

jmarkwolf said:


> Good job mustang! My old Bridgeport had been moved by Bubba and his forklift under the dove tails without any cushion, damaging the forward end of the dovetails. Consequently, I was never to get complete excursion on my ram, but almost. Certainly more excursion than I ever needed.


Mine was picked up the same way, but I put a couple blocks of wood under the ram, because I don't think the guy on the forklift saw it as a boat anchor. I think I've seen in the Bridgeport manual that as long as the ram locks are tight, it's acceptable to lift the machine by the Ram. He did put another deep scratch in it, but he sold it and its my problem. Anyway, I don't think I'll ever fill in the chips/scratches and paint it.

Check out the Bridgeport manual M450A page 1-4 shows a Bridgeport being lifted by a hoist by the Ram. To me, a Forklift used properly is the same thing. https://www.hardinge.com/wp-content/uploads/KneeMill-Parts-Older.pdf


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 23, 2021)

The Ram was finished on Tuesday the 19th, and the Y-axis Screw was repaired on Wednesday the 20th. Yesterday, I mocked up the X-axis Power Feed to gather dimensions to make the shaft that will couple the feed unit to the X-axis Lead Screw. Tomorrow I'll share the power feed mock up photos and a couple of drawings of the shaft I need. 

Y-axis Screw Repair and removal to clean chips in the saddle.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 23, 2021)

Way cover opened to clean chips off of Knee Bevel Gears.





Chips removed from Saddle to the trash where they belong.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 24, 2021)

rb67mustang said:


> Way cover opened to clean chips off of Knee Bevel Gears.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks, tweinke, for the like and for taking the time to check out my project.


----------



## tweinke (Oct 24, 2021)

I've enjoyed watching your progress, keep it coming!


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 24, 2021)

Hi everyone, I hope you're all having a nice Sunday.
OK, so I began mocking up the power feed I bought off of Ebay. If my Bridgeport didn't come with a power feed when it was new, this power feed unit would be fairly simple to install. The 3rd image shows the right end of the X-axis lead screw. The end of the lead screw is an inch from the end of the table. Because the Wen Ding feed unit doesn't have a thrust bearing, I need to use a rigid shaft coupling to attach the shaft extension I need to install this power feed.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 24, 2021)

Here are the sketches I made of the shaft I'll be making. The final dimensions may change when its finished. I'll also have to make my own shaft coupling, or modify a store bought coupling because Bridgeport decided to have a 13/16" diameter end on the X lead screw. 

That's it for today, more to follow. BTW, the mock up was done two days ago. Also, I'll add two images I found online of one of the power feed options from Bridgeport that clearly shows how it would attach to the lead screw on my machine.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 24, 2021)

tweinke said:


> I've enjoyed watching your progress, keep it coming!


Thank,s again my friend!


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 30, 2021)

OK, so a week has passed, I'm battling a cold and here's more progress to share with everyone. I honed the table and I partially disassembled the quill feed to order parts from Hardinge. I ordered the parts on Wednesday and they arrived yesterday. I also got a new crank for the Y-axis and the screw I was going to make myself that was missing from the spindle clock spring shaft. Then I rough turned the shaft extension for the power feed and I'll finish turn it between centers. I need to make a lathe dog, or see if one I previously made will work. I'm still waiting for the shaft coupling to couple the shaft extension onto the X lead screw.
Honing the Table using a Silicon Carbide Knife Stone




Partial disassembly of quill feed




The quill feed was still engaged that's why it didn't come off the first time.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 30, 2021)

Extension shaft rough turned. This is the longest shaft I've turned in the Harbor Freight 7 x 10 lathe. This lathe doesn't like heavy cuts it steel. The drive belt hasn't broken, but I have a replacement just in case. The belt is so thin & narrow that I tend to baby the machine.
Please excuse the orientation of the video.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 30, 2021)

Then I installed the new hand crank and the screw on the clock spring shaft. Then I checked the head for Tram and I mounted my new Kurt look a like Chinese vise on the machine for the first time. Then I indicated in the shaft end that was centered in the lathe. I re-cut the center then I end for ended the shaft and held it in the V block by the same diameter I indicated to center drill the second end of the shaft. Now I can finish turn it between centers.
Checking the Head for Tram


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 30, 2021)

I hope everyone's having a great weekend. That's it for now, more progress to follow.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 30, 2021)

rb67mustang said:


> I hope everyone's having a great weekend. That's it for now, more progress to follow.


Thanks again, Steve, for following my thread. I should have the shaft finished turned this weekend. I'll be cutting the first thread on the Harbor Freight Lathe, but I'll do a test part first to make sure I use the correct gear for the thread. Yeah, no quick change gear box on the Hobby Lathe.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 30, 2021)

rb67mustang said:


> Then I installed the new hand crank and the screw on the clock spring shaft. Then I checked the head for Tram and I mounted my new Kurt look a like Chinese vise on the machine for the first time. Then I indicated in the shaft end that was centered in the lathe. I re-cut the center then I end for ended the shaft and held it in the V block by the same diameter I indicated to center drill the second end of the shaft. Now I can finish turn it between centers.
> Checking the Head for Tram


Thanks tweinke for the like and for following my thread.


----------



## tweinke (Oct 31, 2021)

Nice detail in your posts, keeps it interesting to me. A co worker of mine just bought a Bridgeport on an auction. That machine will be a real crapshoot. so anything i can learn here will help. I know for sure it has lots of wear in the table ways in x seems decent in y but shy of that who knows what the rest is like.


----------



## rb67mustang (Oct 31, 2021)

tweinke said:


> Nice detail in your posts, keeps it interesting to me. A co worker of mine just bought a Bridgeport on an auction. That machine will be a real crapshoot. so anything i can learn here will help. I know for sure it has lots of wear in the table ways in x seems decent in y but shy of that who knows what the rest is like.


I agree with you, tweinke. The last machine shop I worked for when I was injured, their Bridgeport's were all old and abused. They bought an Acer (Bridgeport look a like) new that had a ProtoTrak CNC operator programmable control. That was a sweet machine to run and easy to program. That as well got the **** beat out of it, but it was still working OK when I lost my job.

My table has lots of nicks and a few circles engraved into it from end mills kissing the table. After I honed the table and cleaned it up, I can still see the swirl marks scrapped onto it when it was new in 1974. The ways have some wear, but the scrape marks are still visible but fading away. I know it will be more than good enough for what I'll do with it.

At least I can say, there will not be any new end mill marks on the table from me.

Many may know that Bridgeport is now owned by Hardinge. If anyone needs parts, I'd recommend to go there first so you get a quality made part that fits properly. https://www.shophardinge.com/kneemillparts.aspx


----------



## rb67mustang (Nov 2, 2021)

Hi Everyone, I wanted to finish turn the power feed shaft extension I'm making over the weekend a couple of days ago. But my wife had other plans for my time. I think it was for the better because before Saturday ended, the 3/4" shaft coupling arrived. The first thing I did was measure the bore with a vernier caliper, and it was oversize by almost 0.004 thousandths. If I had turned the shaft to .750, I'd have to make another shaft due to the excessive run out. Usually all types of bearings and pulleys wouldn't be oversize more than a half thousandth. I was surprised to say the least and in a bad way.

So, I'll finish turn the shaft to fit the coupling. The only thing I have to measure a bore is a vernier caliper which isn't an accurate enough measuring tool. The next best measuring tool would be a telescoping gauge and an outside micrometer. The best would be an Intramic or a dial bore gauge. The last machine shop I worked at had everything piece of measuring equipment a machinist could want, but tools like that are quite expensive to be found in a home shop. Here's a link to a used Intramic on ebay so you can see what I'm talking about. (This listing is a B&S 1.2 to 1,4") https://www.ebay.com/itm/193585704671?hash=item2d129b6edf:g:yCkAAOSwo-VfFelA

Here's a new set of Telescoping Gauges that I should get for myself. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2827085993...Bj3iNl6FgQ%3D%3D|clp:2334524|tkp:BFBMlJHNq5xf


----------



## rb67mustang (Nov 2, 2021)

Ok, so here's what I did to determine the bore size and to bore out one end to fit the 0.8115 Bridgeport X lead screw. First I took a piece of 1" aluminum shaft and cut two pieces about 2" long. I chucked the first piece in the lathe and I turned it down to 0.8115. Yes, I had to polish it just a bit to get what I wanted. Then I removed it and I chucked the second piece and I turned it down to .760, and then I took 1 thousand cuts until the coupling started to fit. Then I polished it until the coupling slid on with the least amount of play. The shaft diameter ended up at 0.753 thousandths in diameter. Next, I used my Dremel and ground two flat spots 90 degrees apart so I could secure the coupling to the shaft with its two set screws. Then I bored out the opposite end to fit the 0.08115 aluminum shaft I turned. 

Yes, it seems like a long drawn out process. But now I know what size to finish turn the shaft extension, and the second end I bored out should run well within 1 thousandth to the 3/4" end of the coupling. 

So, what if my 3 jaw chuck was big enough to grab the O.D. of the coupling? Well, if so, there's no way the 0.8115 bored end would run true to the existing 3/4" end of the coupling. 

Now the images: 1. 13/16 poor mans gauge 2 & 3. 0.753 gauge/ boring arbor 4. Coupling mounted onto boring arbor 5. HS hand ground boring tool used taking light cuts because of the interrupted cut caused by the key way and a setscrew hole. 6. Finished bore 7. The 0.8115 gauge in the finished bore.


----------



## rb67mustang (Nov 2, 2021)

Here's a short video of the altered shaft coupling.


----------



## rb67mustang (Nov 2, 2021)

I've had a good run working on my Old Bridgeport. I have to break away from this project for a couple of days to do something else. But, I'll be back by the weekend.

So, what could be more important than the Bridgeport? In the very first post of this thread, I mentioned I have many interests and a few hobbies. So, I'll be cutting some coins. There are so many people doing this and selling their work, and some of the prices are low compared to the time they take to make. I make these as gifts for family & friends. Two of the coins I cut, I also make ear rings to match. Here a couple of images. The full cut coins take me about four hours to cutout, the ear rings take about an hour and a half. The gold tone coin is made out of aluminum bronze, and all the others are made of cupronickel and they are tough to cut and the blade wear out fast.

The big Lion coin is about the size of a Kennedy Half Dollar, the 3 String Lyre coin is about the size of a Quarter, and the small lion coin is about the size of a dime. Yes, I have to wear an Optivisor to cut these and it gets tiring after a while.

The fourth image shows one of the holder I make out of aluminum bar stock in the lathe, drill press and cutoff saw.


----------



## rb67mustang (Nov 2, 2021)

rb67mustang said:


> Here's a short video of the altered shaft coupling.


Thanks again tweinke!


----------



## rb67mustang (Nov 16, 2021)

Hi Everyone, I should have been back to the Old Bridgeport by now. I have all the parts to completely put the machine in working order. Two days after my last post, I was out doing a few errands, gas up the car & food shopping. Between the gas station and the supermarket I was going to I was rear ended at a traffic light. I was stopped with two vehicles in front of me. The light turned green and just before I started to move forward I was struck by a young woman paying more attention to her cell phone than the road. How do I know this? I have a dual dash cam system in my car. 

Upon impact, I looked in my rear view mirror to see the shock of the woman's face. I hesitated for a second or two, and I pulled off to the side of the road. As I did so, this sweet woman backed up and sped past me and hooked a hard left. My forward camera caught that part of the action. I almost thought to chase the young fool, but I didn't. I called the Police so I could start a case against the woman, and my dash cam system caught all the evidence in living color. I wish I could have seen the look on the woman's face when the Police knocked on her door and presented her with the two tickets she earned herself. My back is hurting a lot more than it usually does and my car is already in the shop. Before long, I'll be back to my Hobbies.


----------



## Steve-F (Nov 16, 2021)

Awesome job there !!!


----------



## jwmelvin (Nov 16, 2021)

Sorry to hear about the wreck. Hope you feel better quickly.


----------



## rb67mustang (Nov 16, 2021)

Steve-F said:


> Awesome job there !!!


Thank you, Steve!


----------



## rb67mustang (Nov 16, 2021)

jwmelvin said:


> Sorry to hear about the wreck. Hope you feel better quickly.


Thank you, jwmelvin!


----------



## jmarkwolf (Nov 17, 2021)

I hope she gets more than a ticket! Hit and run used to be a big deal!


----------



## rb67mustang (Nov 17, 2021)

jmarkwolf said:


> I hope she gets more than a ticket! Hit and run used to be a big deal!


Well, I searched online to see what the ticket cost would be. First time, Leaving the Scene of an Accident, is $153 + Court costs + $75 per month added to their Car Insurance. Bill. There isn't a ticket directly for Cell Phone use while driving. The Ticket is called, "Distracted Driving." Oddly enough, the Fees are the same as what I mentioned for leaving the scenes of an accident. But, I imagine the costs greatly escalate for repeat offences. 

My thought is, why did this person flee the scene of the accident? I doubt she thought I had a camera that caught everything. Maybe she lost her license for the same thing she did to me? Maybe the car was stolen? I don't know why and I probably never will, but I hope she really pays for her foolish actions.

The reason I got the dash cam system in the first place was because of a previous accident. If I didn't have a witness, it would have been settled 50/50 by the insurance companies. Sadly, most people that cause an accident NEVER Tell the TRUTH. Times have changed and not for GOOD. 

I recommend a Dual Dash Cam System to everyone. Many Tractor Trailer drivers have a quad camera system, and I'm thinking to do the same for my car because front & rear cameras won't cover collisions from the side.


----------



## rb67mustang (Nov 28, 2021)

Hi Everyone, I trust you had a good Thanksgiving. I've been going to the Chiropractor and my back is still hurting quite a bit. Next week I'll be doing some simple exercises recommended by the Chiropractor. I'm hoping to be back to my pre accident condition before to long. It's in the low 30's this morning in RI. I took out the trash and I thought about the promise I made to move the Ram its full travel once a week so it doesn't freeze up again. I got my keys and went into my garage and I fulfilled my promise. Then I brushed a light coat of grease on the exposed ways of the ram. My garage isn't heated, but its dry and the roof doesn't leak a drop. As soon as I get my quill feed back together you will be the first to see it.


----------

