# Enco 110-2031  Made in 1988, Motor wiring.



## rrbrookie (Jul 2, 2020)

I'm a rookie, Resurrecting this lathe that was sitting out in the elements for a few years. Previous owner took the motor(Asian) off to store it inside and decided not to mark any wires so now I'm trying to figure out how to hook the motor back up to 220V. Got 4 blacks (marked 1-4) and 2 reds (not marked) coming out the motor. got 2 blacks and 2 reds coming from the control box. In the control box the blacks are marked U and V, the reds are marked M6 and CW. So what should I be hooking to what at the motor to prevent a melt down? Any help would be much appreciated.


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## markba633csi (Jul 3, 2020)

Hi, the black motor wires should connect 1 and 4 to the incoming two blacks (either way) in first picture.  2 and 3 should connect together and insulate. Reds connect to reds (either way). That's my best educated guess.  If motor direction is backwards from desired, swap either reds or blacks.
Try that and report back. If it doesn't work we can do some tests
-Mark


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## Janderso (Jul 3, 2020)

Welcome rrbrookie,
How about a peak at that lathe.


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## rrbrookie (Jul 15, 2020)

I'm baaaaaack, So Mark, you were correct, hooked it up that way and it ran perfectly. There was alot of accumulated crud on the screw and forward/reverse rod so I was running the lathe and gently wire wheeling the screw and rod. Must have been to much crud cause after a bit the motor gave out, burst into smoke and toasted. I would like to say thats why it was laying in the guys yard but I think it has more to do with my 50 AMP welding circuit I had it plugged into, the only 220V (at that time) I had in the shop. So now that I have it cleaned up I'm looking for a replacement motor that isn't going to break the bank. I remember seeing where somebody was installing a Marathon motor but can't find that article anywhere. And I'm still going to need to figure out how to hook it up cause I got 2 black wires and 2 red wires coming from the control box with only the L1 and L2 on the future 220V motor. Any help is much appreciated.


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## markba633csi (Jul 15, 2020)

I would inspect the original motor carefully, it may be just a 20$ capacitor that failed.  Take the motor off and open it up is what I would do first. You have to take it off anyway, right?  I'm guessing the run capacitor sprayed out bug juice everywhere, but it could be a bad winding
You would want to check the windings with a multimeter for shorts also, I can advise you
-M
Your motor is probably a overseas mounting style but motors can be adapted with some ingenuity if the original is beyond saving
ps I like the belts: "First Rope"  must be a historical reference;  first rope, then V-belts  LOL bad joke


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## rrbrookie (Jul 15, 2020)

The original Chinese motor filled the whole garage with smoke, blew the 50 AMP breaker and just toasted. My garage still stinks. It was bad. Typical for one of my endeavors. I acquired a 1 HP Dayton (just so I could run the lathe to see if there were other issues) that had been sitting out side for a decade and it fired right up on 110V. We took it apart to install a better bearing and now it will not start on either 110 or 220. Just hums and will eventually blow the 110 CB or my new 20 amp 220 v CB. I used the electric motor forum and got in the back and cleaned up the switch but to no avail. So since that Dayton is just a test motor a little shy of the 1 1/2HP I was thinking on just biting the bullet and dip into the food budget and get a problem free motor. I found one on Northern Tool I think will work but I don't understand how the whole AC reverse  thing works with only an L1 and an L2 lead on the motor. Should I be looking at an "instant reversing motor"? I could stand to loose a few pounds anyway.


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## rrbrookie (Jul 15, 2020)

Some "before laying in the previous owners yard pictures"


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## markba633csi (Jul 15, 2020)

Sorry for the motor problems, reversing setups usually need a minimum of 3 motor wires for 220v and usually 4 for 110
You have L1, L2 coming in, then it splits into a run circuit and a start circuit. The start leg wires are swapped to reverse.
Hard to beat a brand new motor if you can afford it, just be sure you get one that's reversible by swapping two wires.
Shame that lathe was so neglected- ouch.  I know it's dry in Arizona (got a brother in Phoenix) but not that dry


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## markba633csi (Jul 15, 2020)

typo


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## rrbrookie (Jul 21, 2020)

I've been looking at a 2 HP 1800 RPM 115 or 230V  motor at Harbor Freight. The motor can turn CW or CCW according to the downloadable instructions. Figured its and Asian lathe, it can have an Asian motor. They did give the motor a very American sounding name though, Smith and Jones. So can anybody (Mark) tell me if this motor can be hooked up so the reversing switch will work like its supposed to? I have the two blacks marked U and V and 2 reds marked M6 and M5 and a ground. I'm just going to stick with 115V cause I haven't run the 220 to that side of the shop yet. Again, any help would be appreciated


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## ScottM1A (Jul 22, 2020)

_I have the same lathe and bought a 1.5hp 3ph 220v motor and a 3hp VFD because for some reason the previous owner removed all the electrical. Now I need to figure out how to adapt a Grizzly tailstock to it. I thought it was the same but it looks like it's about a half inch too tall. Waiting to find out if I won a couple chucks in an auction and then need a tool post and tools for the thing. 
I think I'll end up having just as much into this "good" deal as I would have spent on a known good lathe from a tool dealer. Oops._


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## rrbrookie (Jul 22, 2020)

Hello Scott, Ever hear of Mercer? Anyways, I'm always getting myself into stuff like this cause I hate to see stuff on the scrap pile. I have a South Bend made in like 1928, 15" but its too big for my shop so when I seen this I figured I could resurrect it and make it useful again, and it will be as soon as myself and the good people on this site figure it out!  I have the SB in a semi van I ran power to so when I need to use it I swelter in an oven. Need to weed out my shop is what I need to do.


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## macardoso (Jul 22, 2020)

I have this same lathe (well the 110-2033). It is a nice piece of equipment. Let me know if you have any electrical or other questions about it.









						Enco 12x36 Lathe Rebuild (Picture Heavy!)
					

Hi All, I recently purchased an Enco110-2033 gap bed lathe from a industrial surplus business for around $1100. It's more than some have spent on a lathe like this, but it was available nearby my house and in beautiful condition under the significant amount of grime that had coated it.  This...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


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## FOMOGO (Jul 22, 2020)

I would be inclined to totally disassemble the Enco, and clean and lube. May be just too much mechanical resistance working against the motor. Hate to burn up another one needlessly. Mike


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## markba633csi (Jul 22, 2020)

Brookie:  Looks like the Smith and Jones (ha) would work.  I believe it has a thermal cutout; slightly different wiring arrangement but I can help you with that- let me know if you buy it
-Mark


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## rrbrookie (Jul 22, 2020)

FOMOGO said:


> I would be inclined to totally disassemble the Enco, and clean and lube. May be just too much mechanical resistance working against the motor. Hate to burn up another one needlessly. Mike


I totally disassembled it, only had a few parts left over! Normally I have a coffee can full. Put 2 new belts on it but the one that drives the spindle is a little loose, Already adjusted it once. Keep plugging away.


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## rrbrookie (Jul 22, 2020)

markba633csi said:


> Brookie:  Looks like the Smith and Jones (ha) would work.  I believe it has a thermal cutout; slightly different wiring arrangement but I can help you with that- let me know if you buy it
> -Mark


I broke down and bought it today, it does have a thermal cutout. What do I need to do to get it running? Thanks


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## rrbrookie (Jul 24, 2020)

I attempted to hook up the Harbor Freight motor yesterday with a buddy who wires industrial stuff but normally he is working off a set of plans. The whole time he was scratching his head he kept saying "I don't know if this is going to work". Well it worked 50%, the lathe runs one way and trips the CB the other way. This is how its hooked up P1 to L1(V), T4 and T2 to L2(U), T5 to M5, and T8 to M6. Anybody see what we did wrong or maybe that motor just can't do what I want it to do. Suggestions other than spend a shoebox full of cash? Appreciate the help. 
I'm also in the process of making a stand for it.


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## macardoso (Jul 24, 2020)

Can you post a link to the motor? I’ll draw you a schematic.


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## markba633csi (Jul 24, 2020)

I'll jump in too if needed- the diagram in post 10 is the new motor correct? And running on 240 volts?


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## rrbrookie (Jul 24, 2020)

macardoso said:


> Can you post a link to the motor? I’ll draw you a schematic.


Mark is correct, the new motor is in post #10 and I'm sticking with 115V


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## rrbrookie (Jul 24, 2020)

macardoso said:


> Can you post a link to the motor? I’ll draw you a schematic.


First one is the control box
Second is the motor, I'm sticking with 110V cause I don't have 220 on that side of the shop yet. But it wouldn't hurt to have a schematic for 220 if your willing cause I will be switching it over.
Thanks


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## markba633csi (Jul 25, 2020)

Hang in there, it sometimes takes a few back and forth posts before we figure out the correct recipe. 
The motor should do what you want and you shouldn't have to spend a shoebox of cash, that's what HM is all about


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## markba633csi (Jul 25, 2020)

Going back to post #1, you had 2 blacks and 2 reds coming to the motor from the control box.  On the new motor, T5 and T8 should be brought out and connected to the two reds, and wire nutted or taped. The two blacks should go to the L1 and L2 on the motor.  Motor configured for the 120 volt case.  Is that how you have it now?
-M


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## rrbrookie (Jul 25, 2020)

That is exactly how my buddy figured out how to hook it up. Buuuuutttt the light does not come on and when you run it one way it will run but slow and the other way it blows the CB. Where to next?


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## markba633csi (Jul 25, 2020)

OK first question: the transformer in the control box, is it set for 110 in and 110 out?
second question: if you disconnect the motor entirely, does the light (i assume this is the run light) work normally and do the forward and reverse
contactors pull in and latch?

You want to measure the red and black wire pairs with an ac voltmeter as you switch between forward and reverse.  You should have two live pairs in both directions and cold when stopped.  There could be something wrong with one contactor or some weird wiring error due to the PO
Use care


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## rrbrookie (Jul 25, 2020)

Heres the scoop.
Transformer: on the top it was on the 220V terminal I changed it to 110 V after you mentioned it. On the bottom it was on 110V
When motor is disconnected and unit is plugged in light is on.
U V M5 M6 do not have 110 to ground
Lever up: Left contactor pulled in, U & M6 both have 110 to ground, V & M5 have no voltage.
Lever down: Right contactor pulled in, U & M5 both have 110 to ground, V & M6 have no voltage. 
Whats next?


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## markba633csi (Jul 26, 2020)

Ok that looks correct, and tells us that the M5 and M6 are the reversing leads, they should connect to T5 and T8.  U and V should go to L1 and L2.
Do the same test between M5 and M6,  and again at U and V.  Should see voltage in forward and reverse for each pair.
If so, then connect the motor and try it.  The transformer tap may have been the issue all along.


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## rrbrookie (Jul 26, 2020)

Mark You the MAN!! Where do I send the beer and what kind you want?


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## markba633csi (Jul 26, 2020)

No problemo, I'm surprised your friend didn't notice the transformer setting.  Glad you got it 
If you want to change to 220/240 later here's all you do:
1) change the transformer back to 220 (obviously)
2) configure the motor for the high voltage case- either CW or CCW doesn't matter
3) disconnect either T8 or T5 from T4/L2 and connect it to either M5 or M6.  One will give the correct rotation and one will be backwards.
whichever one is left over just tape or wirenut it.
4) connect the U and V to L1 and L2 like before.  Done.


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## rrbrookie (Jul 28, 2020)

I want to thank everyone, especially Mark, for getting this worked out. Here is the not finished product, I'm going to put 2 drawers on the stand.


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## macardoso (Jul 28, 2020)

Did you paint the lathe white?


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## rrbrookie (Jul 28, 2020)

The paint is a typical Randy story. My buddy painted his lathe and mill Battle Ship gray when he moved to AZ 15 years ago. When I told him I was going to paint the lathe he offered his 1/2 gallon of left over paint, when I picked it up he was stirring it, I said that looks a little light. He said the solids were at the bottom and it would darken up the more I mix it. I brought it home, put it on the shaker and shook the snot out of it. Painted about 1/2 of it all the while thinking I've never seen a battle ship painted this color.  Took a picture and e-mailed him. Said it looks a little light. Kept painting, about 30 minutes later he calls and said he gave me the wrong paint and to come get the battle ship gray. Told him too late, it is what it is. Its not white but I swear its getting lighter and lighter every time I go in the shop. I'm expecting it to start glowing. Other than it looks like no other is there a problem. It might show the grim....ya think? Its growing on me.


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## markba633csi (Jul 29, 2020)

Did you make that tray too? Looks great


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## rrbrookie (Jul 30, 2020)

I did not make the tray, that came with the lathe. Got a few dings but will work.


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## macardoso (Jul 30, 2020)

The white looks nice actually. That's why I asked.


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## rrbrookie (Aug 17, 2020)

Hey everybody, just to let you know the Enco is up and running. I'm to the point of selling the South Bend, found a casting number on the inside and its dated 1922. Got all the gears, I think, face plate, tapering attachment, chuck, carriage stop, 3 jaw chuck with inner and outer jaws, steady rest, got it cleaned up and painted. Some tooling. Can send more pictures. 928-273-6641. Its in North Central Arizona.


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## ARC-170 (Dec 2, 2020)

rrbrookie said:


> I want to thank everyone, especially Mark, for getting this worked out. Here is the not finished product, I'm going to put 2 drawers on the stand.



This looks really good, especially compared to what it looked like when you got it.

The same model came up for sale recently and I wondered if you could maybe answer a few questions:

1. Do you have the overall dimensions for this machine? In other words, how wide and how deep is it? I need to see what size bench it will fit on. The bench is against a wall.
2. Where did you find a manual?
3. What Grizzly machine is this equivalent to?

Thanks!


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## rrbrookie (Dec 3, 2020)

28 x 62. The back of my machine is right up against the wall. 
I found a manual for a real similar machine on the internet.
Do not know which Griz is comparable.
Sorry, not much help. I will try and find the manual, my computer died and had to get a different one. I know it was on that one.


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## macardoso (Dec 3, 2020)

This is pretty much the Grizzly G9249. Manual is available on their website or as the first google hit for "Grizzly G9249"


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