# New to me Lathe questions



## mjs408 (Feb 20, 2017)

I purchased a nishimori kogyo lathe last summer, and have not run it yet as I operate off of a ramen type budget currently. I have saved enough for some tooling and a VFD which for the time has to be shared by my mill (another project thread shortly )and lathe.

With that said I have this 60s vintage  Japanese lathe that has a 5/8 tool (stud)post, but no T slot, is this normal for machines of this vintage? What type of tool post do I need to look for?

It has an A1-5 short taper style mounting flange, does anyone make a camlock adapter for these types of mounting flanges?

One interesting feature of this lathe is that instead of having a dial on the handle it has a build in long and short travel indicator. The dial lenses are a bit foggy so I have to figure out what to do there.  


As I have found these lathes are a bit of an orphan so if you have any information on the please share.

Also, I should add I have taken classes to become a machinist/tool maker long ago(15 years), but I was a B student in an A+ world. So most machining terms and operations are not completely greek to me.


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## T Bredehoft (Feb 20, 2017)

Welcome to probably the best, most user friendly Hobby machinist board around. 

You can use the compound as it is, but you will need either a four tool post or a Quick Change Tool Post, universally called here QCTP. 

The screw that is there now can be removed and replaced by removing the compound, probably tricky for you, but not uncommon at all. There probably are some screws in the side of the compound, holding a gib, to adjust snugness. Back these off, so they are loose,  and unscrew the lead screw, back the compound toward  you until the screw is no longer moving the compound. pul gently and it should come off. Further disassembly will allow you to remove and replace the post screw if needed. Pay attention to what falls off as you are pulling the compound off, and where it came from, it will have to go back on. While its apart, do some fairly serious cleaning. You will be doing a lot of that, though. just keep it in mind.


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## mjs408 (Feb 20, 2017)

I definitely understand the whole lotta cleaning to do part. Both the mill and lathe are filthy. So the stud will drop out after I pull the compound and I can replace it with a Shars or whomever's quick change post for my correct  swing dia. 


Next order if business is to find a decent 3 jaw chuck for it. All it came with is big 4 jaws.


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## willthedancer (Feb 20, 2017)

A BXA qctp uses a 5/8 stud. I wouldn't make a change there. 

Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk


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## mjs408 (Feb 20, 2017)

Thanks for the info Will, I have been browsing toolposts but saw mainly metric options. Now I know what to look for.


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## mjs408 (May 4, 2017)

Bump, anybody have info on the manufacturer of my lathe?


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## Nogoingback (May 4, 2017)

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/gunsmithing/enterprise-nishimori-lathe-297654/


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## mjs408 (May 5, 2017)

I've read that thread, I also found a thread with a rumor of a reprint owners manual for sale but haven't been able to find it.


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## 4ssss (May 5, 2017)

You're going to like that trav a dial.   If you can't clean up the crystal maybe you can find one here.

https://www.buytrak.com/product.php?productid=29


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## jamby (May 5, 2017)

Those trav-a-dials were a big hit in the 70's before digital readouts were everywhere.  Only had a couple that did work fine.  Some the grease/oil go to and they would skip.  
Jim


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## cathead (May 6, 2017)

mjs408 said:


> I definitely understand the whole lotta cleaning to do part. Both the mill and lathe are filthy. So the stud will drop out after I pull the compound and I can replace it with a Shars or whomever's quick change post for my correct  swing dia.
> 
> 
> Next order if business is to find a decent 3 jaw chuck for it. All it came with is big 4 jaws.




It depends on what you turn in your lathe.  If it's just shafts, a 3 jaw could suffice I guess.  For my purposes though,
I turn shafts and also many other shapes.  I have several 3 jaw chucks and they sit unused.  You can turn eccentrics,
flat plates, odd shapes,  and large parts.  Also, with a dial indicator shafts can be chucked up with extreme accuracy. 
I like the versatility of a 4 jaw and it can turn shafts too.   It all boils down to what kind of work you are doing.


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## British Steel (May 6, 2017)

I'm with Cathead on this, I rarely-to-never use the 3-jaw, but have a selection of 4-jaws from 3" to 10", faceplates and collets. Most of what I do at some point involves picking up on a machined diameter and turning other diameters concentric with it, even a decent (Pratt Burnerd or whatever) 3-jaw has run-out, and run-out that varies with work diameter and clamping force, a 4-jaw can be as accurate as you and your DTI can make it, known good shafting can go in a collet and be within a tenth or two, with a wiggler / pump-centre in an accurate punch mark work on a faceplate can be as accurate as you can be bothered to make it.

If I was turning out multiples (tens/hundreds) and could finish a part in one chucking, no problem with a 3-jaw as all the resulting surfaces would be concentric, but once it's out of / moved in the jaws it will NEVER go back exactly where it was...

Of course, if you need to take the part out to try it and need it to go back concentric, there's no substitute for between-centres turning (says he, giving the game away about old-schoolness...)

Dave H. (the other one)


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## cathead (May 6, 2017)

Also, I forgot to mention that a four jaw chuck can double as a faceplate if you remove the jaws, very handy.  At least the one I have will do that.


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## Silverbullet (May 6, 2017)

If I may suggest look at a  six jaw chuck if you want a multi purpose one. If you think about it it's three chucks in one. Two , three, six. And if you get two piece jaws it's almost the perfect option.


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## 4ssss (May 6, 2017)

British Steel said:


> I'm with Cathead on this, I rarely-to-never use the 3-jaw, but have a selection of 4-jaws from 3" to 10", faceplates and collets. Most of what I do at some point involves picking up on a machined diameter and turning other diameters concentric with it, even a decent (Pratt Burnerd or whatever) 3-jaw has run-out, and run-out that varies with work diameter and clamping force, a 4-jaw can be as accurate as you and your DTI can make it, known good shafting can go in a collet and be within a tenth or two, with a wiggler / pump-centre in an accurate punch mark work on a faceplate can be as accurate as you can be bothered to make it.
> 
> If I was turning out multiples (tens/hundreds) and could finish a part in one chucking, no problem with a 3-jaw as all the resulting surfaces would be concentric, but once it's out of / moved in the jaws it will NEVER go back exactly where it was...
> 
> ...




A 3 jaw adjustable Buck Chuck solves all your 3 jaw run out problems in 1/2 the time of indicating a part in a 4 jaw.


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## British Steel (May 7, 2017)

4ssss said:


> A 3 jaw adjustable Buck Chuck solves all your 3 jaw run out problems in 1/2 the time of indicating a part in a 4 jaw.



I doubt that - unless the adjust-tru has a miracle scroll that keeps the jaws on the same centre whatever the part diameter? Adjusting it in the backplate for absolute accuracy has to take almost as long as or longer than the 20 - 30 seconds to adjust a 4-jaw to less than a thou"?

Dave H. (the other one)


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## 4ssss (May 7, 2017)

British Steel said:


> I doubt that - unless the adjust-tru has a miracle scroll that keeps the jaws on the same centre whatever the part diameter? Adjusting it in the backplate for absolute accuracy has to take almost as long as or longer than the 20 - 30 seconds to adjust a 4-jaw to less than a thou"?
> 
> Dave H. (the other one)





Well, we all have our opinions.  When I was working on eyelet tools Buck's were all that was in the shop.  I made thousands of  punches and dies that had different diameters and the run out was minimal. On long parts you tap one end in and  buck it up to within tenths.  The same way it's done in a 4 jaw without having to adjust each jaw independently.  Not only were the lathes equipped with Buck Chucks, but the cylindrical grinders (Myfords I may add) had them also. I guess it's all in the knowing how to do it.


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## mjs408 (Sep 30, 2018)

I havnt much time as of late [like the last year] to work on this. Ive finally gotten the chance to mess w it and all looks good beside the lever that allows power feed left or right isnt connected for some reason. Its in feed left now so no big deal. 



 The other issue is on the speeds and feeds gear box the pull handle is jammed and i dont want to get crazy with it trying to get it apart as i dont want to break it. Anybody have a name for this style handle/plunger? 

After i get this moving its time for a vfd and tooling.


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## mjs408 (Oct 5, 2018)

Well I decided to stop being a panzy and put a visegrip on the handle and smacked it a few time with a 3lb hammer. Fixed it! Now on to order a vfd and breaking resistor.

Plan too wire the current forward and reverse lever into the vfd


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## Kevin Schultz (Dec 4, 2018)

I have also purchased a very used nishimori lathe that looks to be the same model as you have.  The main problem with mine is the lead screw is missing and has been replaced with a chain.  I can find no information on the lathe online.  I would like to put a new lead screw back in but have no place to start. I am hoping you could send me some pics of yours and maybe some measurements so I can Fab up the replacement parts I need.  Thanks.


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## Kevin Schultz (Dec 4, 2018)

Kevin Schultz said:


> I have also purchased a very used nishimori lathe that looks to be the same model as you have.  The main problem with mine is the lead screw is missing and has been replaced with a chain.  I can find no information on the lathe online.  I would like to put a new lead screw back in but have no place to start. I am hoping you could send me some pics of yours and maybe some measurements so I can Fab up the replacement parts I need.  Thanks.





mjs408 said:


> Well I decided to stop being a panzy and put a visegrip on the handle and smacked it a few time with a 3lb hammer. Fixed it! Now on to order a vfd and breaking resistor.
> 
> Plan too wire the current forward and reverse lever into the vfd


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## Nogoingback (Dec 4, 2018)

mjs408 said:


> Thanks for the info Will, I have been browsing toolposts but saw mainly metric options. Now I know what to look for.




To properly size a QCTP, you need to measure the distance from the top of the compound to the center of the spindle and compare with
the specs from the manufacturers.   There are general ranges of swing associated with AXA, BXA and CXA tool posts, but taking that 
measurement is more accurate.  

As an example, the Dorian catalog provides this info:  http://www.doriantool.com/wp-content/uploads/SEC-B-TOOL-POST-TOOLHOLDERS-2016.pdf

Page B-8  shows how the measurement is made and Page B-32 has dimensions applicable to AXA, BXA and CXA tool posts.  Dorian 
stuff is pretty expensive, but this will give you the idea.


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