# Should gear train be heavily greased?



## LG244 (May 15, 2013)

I am new to the forum. I have had a SB 10L for a while, but never took it apart and have not used it heavily at all. I recently decided to bite the bullet and refurbish it and take it apart, clean it, repaint, etc. As I have started to disassemble it I have noted the the change gears, reverse gears, etc are heavily coated in grease from the prior owner. As I have had it for about 10 years, this is the first I have taken it apart.

I am using the rebuild book from stevewb and in it there is nothing about greasing the gears when assembling it. Am I correct that after I clean everything up, replace and reoil the felts and all the parts, I should not apply grease to the gears? I should just keep it well lubricated. 

I have no idea why it had been greased so heavily.

thank you all.
Leon


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## jgedde (May 15, 2013)

Yes, they should be greased.  Lubriplate makes a ultra thick grease for open gearboxes.  It comes in a caulking tube and is called Gear Shield Heavy.  Regular GL2 grease also works and is easily available, but it tends to get thrown around.

The GearShield heavy grease also makes the gears very quiet!  I use it on the back gear on my bandsaw.  I keep meaning to lube my lathe's quick change gears with it...

John


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## ScrapMetal (May 15, 2013)

I'm not a big proponent of grease on a lathe as the grease can "hold" on to tiny bits of swarf and chips and cause premature wear.   With the proper felts and oilers you will be fine as long as you maintain them/it properly.

JMHO

-Ron


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## Chuck K (May 15, 2013)

ScrapMetal said:


> I'm not a big proponent of grease on a lathe as the grease can "hold" on to tiny bits of swarf and chips and cause premature wear.   With the proper felts and oilers you will be fine as long as you maintain them/it properly.
> 
> JMHO
> 
> -Ron



Ron, I agree with you about the grease.  The exception I make is on the gears on the back of the headstock.  I've never had chips get in the gears on the rear of my lathe.  Not gonna say it couldn't happen, but I haven't noticed it.  I also have to agree with John....that a good open gear grease will make the gears run almost silent.


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## itsme_Bernie (May 16, 2013)

The gears will be quiet, so go for it- although u see synthetic gear lube (manual transmission oil) on mine.

I will say I had a real issue with ENORMOUS noise coming from dried up grease in the gears.  S bad, I though something was wrong! 

So I would plan to occasionally take those outer gears off and clean them out, or use gear oil of them occasionally afterward to let chips and gunk fly off.

Now mine is nice and quiet


Bernie


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## woodtickgreg (May 16, 2013)

South Bend recommends oiling daily in their owners manuals, no mention of greasing anything. I would think that clean new felts and proper oiling would be all the machine would need.


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## GK1918 (May 16, 2013)

For years I just give them a squirt with #90 gear oil.  Totally silent.


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## LG244 (May 16, 2013)

My thanks to everyone. All very helpful. Interesting diversity of opinion. As this project will take me at least 6 months or longer, I have plenty of time to think about it. Again, I very much appreciate everyone's quick response. I look forward to more time on the forum, and the need for a lot more help :thumbzup:


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## Todd (May 16, 2013)

I rarely use an open gear grease on gears that are jsut that, open.  if they are in an enclosure with no way for swarf and filings to com ein contact then it wont bother wether you use oil or grease.  but for the gear train on a 10L i have not, nor would i use grease.  i use a heavy oil on mine, way oil seems to stick just fine give them a couple squirts as they are first starting to run and have been fine.  i have seen a few lathes with the gear train with grease and they usually have boogered up teeth on the gears from the grease trapping in swarf.

the QCGB does not need grease either, i cant remember now if you had mentioned that in the original post.  But the oil that goes into the cups on top of the gear box splashes onto the gears, no need to grease or even squirt oil up in the gear box


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## Bobby Bailey (May 16, 2013)

Way oil works good without flying off or dripping. 
Bobby


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## itsme_Bernie (May 16, 2013)

If you use a heavy gear oil, with a "tacking agent" - NO detergents- like the additives for auto manual transmission oils to make them stick- again, NO DETERGENTS (this would make your oil into lapping compound), they will be quiet, clear chips and debris, and lube the gear pressure surfaces.

Something with Molybdenum is ideal- microscopically coats.

If you decide to use grease, just make yourself take them off and clean them a few times a year.  


Bernie


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## 8ntsane (May 16, 2013)

Im not a fan of grease either. It seems to work ok, but the mess isn't something I like to deal with. I synthetic gear lube, mixed with Lucas HD oil stabilizer. The Lucas stuff is a thick sticky product that stays on the gears, and also keeps the noise down.

I used to use 90 wt gear oil, but that stuff has its own stink. The synthetic gear doesn't have that smell, though seems to be much thinner, the reason I mix with the Lucas HD stabilizer. My lathe had the bottom of the case open, and when I once used grease , I had a grease slick below the end cover. I since installed a mud pan to catch any dripping gear lube. Now I just remove it every now and then, dump it, wipe it out.


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## itsme_Bernie (May 16, 2013)

8ntsane said:


> Im not a fan of grease either. It seems to work ok, but the mess isn't something I like to deal with. I synthetic gear lube, mixed with Lucas HD oil stabilizer. The Lucas stuff is a thick sticky product that stays on the gears, and also keeps the noise down.
> 
> I used to use 90 wt gear oil, but that stuff has its own stink. The synthetic gear doesn't have that smell, though seems to be much thinner, the reason I mix with the Lucas HD stabilizer. My lathe had the bottom of the case open, and when I once used grease , I had a grease slick below the end cover. I since installed a mud pan to catch any dripping gear lube. Now I just remove it every now and then, dump it, wipe it out.



Exactly!



B




Bernie


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## Rbeckett (May 16, 2013)

I would tend to believe a heavy coat of grease would only serve to collect swarf and cause issues.  I for one would opt for a high quality high pressure lube and apply it sparingly but thoroughly.  I would then attempt to remove any blobs that built up and keep the build up to a minimum.  This would probably require a more frequent application of grease, but would prevent swarf from damaging the gears and becoming entrapped in the grease causing a cutting hazard too.  What does the owners or maintenance manual recommend as far as intervals and lube.  Remember that lube quality has increased exponentially in the not to distant past and can be relied on today to outperform even the best from only 5 or 10 years ago.  Just my thoughts, your mileage may very.

Bob


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## LG244 (May 17, 2013)

Todd said:


> the QCGB does not need grease either, i cant remember now if you had mentioned that in the original post.  But the oil that goes into the cups on top of the gear box splashes onto the gears, no need to grease or even squirt oil up in the gear box



Todd,
I don't think I specifically mentioned it, but yes it is slathered with grease. My goal now is to clean all of it off all the gears, get a good look at them to make sure they are OK and then re-assemble without grease and follow the suggestions of some of those  who have responded.


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## NEL957 (Sep 1, 2013)

It really depends on what kind of work you do. Grease is probably the worst thing to use. It collects the metal in the air and if there is cast iron in it, you will wear the gears long before they should. The best is a dry lube that does not collect chips. A good cleaning is in order, if you want to keep your gears in best working condition. The second must is when not using the power on the carriage put them in neutral, less wear on your gears and a lot less noise. 
Nelson


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