# Taig Tailstock Handle



## K\Harnish (Apr 5, 2014)

This is my version of a new handle for the tailstock.

My Taig is on a large board that just sits on my workbench and it has occasionally moved if I put too much pressure on the original handle, so I thought I would try for a handle that will allow a push and a pull at the same time to see if that would help. (I guess I could learn how to sharpen my drill bits, or at least buy new ones.)

I started with an eighth by half mild steel and duplicated the holes from the original steel, then cut the new piece to length, leaving about 2.5 to 3 inches beyond each hole.

I put a piece of 1 inch wooden dowel rod in the milling attachment/vice, and using an eighth inch Dremel burr in the collet, I cut a blind slot about 3/4 inch deep, as long as the cross slide travel would allow. My idea was to try to get the center of the steel in about the center of the wood. Once the slots were cut, I cut off the dowel at one edge of the slot and cut the other end leaving a 6 and a half inch piece and a 5 and a half piece. A little time on the sanding wheel eased the edges.

Again, using the milling attachment and vice, I drilled and counter sank the holes in the wood, more or less an inch apart, slightly beyond the slot to allow for the 8-32 x 1/2 socket flat head screws to bottom out in my counter sunk holes.

Then I fit the steel into the slot, and tapped it tight to the bottom and end of the slot and marked where I needed to drill the holes in the steel.

The steel was then drilled and tapped for 8-32 machine screws.

I didn't see much sense in the bolt and nut to hold the original handle in place, and the cotter pin was a nuisance, so I turned the "belaying" pins to hold the handle in place. I made the one that goes through the 2 straps a bit thicker to accommodate the larger holes in bracket. (It bothered me to have the original handle flopping around if I disconnected the cotter pin and left the bolt attached. With the 2 pins, it's a cinch to completely remove the handle when I am using a dead center on the tailstock.

I bit of stain and 3 coats of rub on poly on the wood and done!

Parts ready for assembly with the original steel next to my new one:




Assembled - notice a bit of reshaping to allow full in and out of the shaft:




Showing a one handed push/pull - could also use both hands:


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## Gerritt (Apr 6, 2014)

Nice enhancement. Certainly gives a lot more control than a single ended handle.

The tailstock is the weakest part of the Taig IMO. Without a threaded spindle drilling holes is a pain. For me the drill bits tends to grab near the break through point. Toying with making a new TS using the arbor and thread from a 7x10 lathe.

Gerrit


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## Chucketn (Apr 6, 2014)

Do you have a boring bar holder for your Taig? Put a drill chuck on a straight shank that fits your boring bar holder and use the cairrage to drill?

Chuck


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## K\Harnish (Apr 6, 2014)

chucketn said:


> Do you have a boring bar holder for your Taig? Put a drill chuck on a straight shank that fits your boring bar holder and use the cairrage to drill?
> 
> Chuck



My only boring bar is a regular 1/4 in Taig tool ground for boring.

Another issue I have had with the Taig, is too much pressure on the carriage hand wheel tends to dislodge the lead screw, so drilling with the carriage would not work well. I have seen a few adaptations to avoid this, but never with enough detail that I feel confident trying them yet.


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## mwooten (Apr 13, 2014)

That's a nice handle.  I can see where you get better control.  That was the very first thing I made with my lathe when I got it.  I just used a bolt and turned it down.  Guess it kinda looks like the first project as well.  Seems to work ok.



--Mike


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## Rapscallion (May 3, 2014)

Nice idea.
Excessive wear or backlash on a threaded tailstock can cause ugly break-throughs on through drilled holes (especially on brass and bronze). This seems like it could avert that if you don't have much (if any) play on your lever links.

Love the things I'm seeing on this Forum. :allgood:


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## K\Harnish (May 4, 2014)

Rapscallion said:


> Nice idea.
> Excessive wear or backlash on a threaded tailstock can cause ugly break-throughs on through drilled holes (especially on brass and bronze). This seems like it could avert that if you don't have much (if any) play on your lever links.
> 
> Love the things I'm seeing on this Forum. :allgood:




Good advice. I will rework my pins to take out any slop.


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