# NEW OLD HEAVY 10 + TOOLING +



## dlane

GOT MY NEW REALLY OLD HEAVY 10 ITS GOING TO BE A PROJECT. I ordered the new felts and rebuild book from ebay. Got it from the grandson of the original owner, came with a bunch of tooling some of it i don't know what it dose, 2- 3 jaw chucks, 2-4 jaw chucks,spider chuck, follower+steady rests, 32 r5 collets and wheel closer, taper attachment ,bunches of lathe bits 40 lbs, realy nice old starrett machinist level. Bunches of end mills but i don't have a mill "yet" prob about 80 lbs. its going to take me a while to go thru all the tooling. 
The machine is a mod cl 187A  4'bed  sr#8005rrl14 . It is really dirty and crusty greasy  so i didn't want him to run it long or travel the bed far just enough to see it work.
I tried to talk him down from 2k he would not budge on the price but for an extra $100. he threw in a Do All vertical band saw originally it was a band filer but it was converted to a saw by dick russell. 
If anyone could tell me what i have would be great. I'm now going to attempt to put up some pics up. Any thoughts, advice, or comments much appreciated thanks. don't know if pics worked but i'll keep tryin
Derrick


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## dlane

And the saw


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## aametalmaster

Now thats a nice chunk of a find. Some parts pictured don't go with the lathe but would be in a shop...Bob


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## dlane

Having trouble finding 20 wt machine oil. Don't want to clean things up without re oiling. In AR i could've got all i wanted within 2 mi don't know if i can get any in CA. What can i use to lube in CA ?. Good oil ,paint , solvents are i guess illegal here in ca,:angry:


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## dlane

*A couple more questions*

Any body know what the three bushing looking things are in pic 9 they were in the motor compartment. Also the collet set up, is something missing do the R5 collets just go in the spindle and the tube holds them in , the collar on the spindle nose i found looked like it is for the collets it has a pin in it and it fits in the taper of the spindle bore and has a taper for the R5 collets with the pin in it How many parts are there for a wheel collet closer to work?. Do they sell a er 40 collet holder for the heavy 10 i have a full set of er 40s. Also going to need the saddle travel lever any body have one laying around or know where to get one?. Dose the taper attachment look like its missing something ?. Also 20 wt machine oil cleaning solvents and good paint in Ca. might be a prob. 
Thanks for any help, advice, thoughts
Derrick


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## JimDawson

*Re: A couple more questions*

Power steering fluid is right in the 20wt range.  Non-detergent, good anti-wear properties.  Comes in quarts from your local auto parts store.


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## woodtickgreg

*Re: A couple more questions*

Nice find, good buy in my opinion especially with all the tooling and a taper attachment, and collet closer. You are missing a threaded collar for the 5c collets, the collar goes on first and then the piece you have inserted in the spindle. The threaded collar helps to self eject the part that locks the collet in. Man I would do a full restore on that lathe if it was mine!


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## Earl

*Re: A couple more questions*



dlane said:


> Any body know what the three bushing looking things are in pic 9 they were in the motor compartment. Also the collet set up, is something missing do the R5 collets just go in the spindle and the tube holds them in , the collar on the spindle nose i found looked like it is for the collets it has a pin in it and it fits in the taper of the spindle bore and has a taper for the R5 collets with the pin in it How many parts are there for a wheel collet closer to work?. Do they sell a er 40 collet holder for the heavy 10 i have a full set of er 40s. Also going to need the saddle travel lever any body have one laying around or know where to get one?. Dose the taper attachment look like its missing something ?. Also 20 wt machine oil cleaning solvents and good paint in Ca. might be a prob.
> Thanks for any help, advice, thoughts
> Derrick


If that lathe came out of an auto shop I know what they are.  I have a set of those in my tool archives.   They are locator buttons to put in an engine block to align the heads when reassembling an engine.  If you slide the head around lining up the bolt holes, you moe often than not, destroy the head gaskets.   Once the head is in place and you have a few headbolts started,  there is a long pin  ( 8 inches or so) that has a spring loaded ball near the bottom,  (the locator pins have a tapered hole)  you merely push the pin down a headbolt hole, push it thru the locator, the ball compresses on the way in and expands enough to capture the locator on the way out.


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## dlane

*Re: A couple more questions*

I am planing on going threw it, cleaning ,painting fixing SB.  That's on hold till i get an old atlas going good first. Can' wait to get it back in shape if possible. Thanks Earl i'll put those in the non SB parts box. Thanks Greg It'll be nice when done  it was so covered in old caked on grease / oil chips i didn't want po to run it long. After a little cleaning noticed a little bed ware tho.  Any one know where i could find a threaded collar for the  5c collects or have a pic of one so i know what i'm looking for?.                    
 Sorry they are 5c collects
thanks all.
Derrick


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## dlane

*Re: A couple more questions*

Started in on Sb heavy 10 cleaning painting re-felting . first problem reverse tumbler gear shaft screw broken on rear gear "nut gone" anybody have one lying around or know where to find one ?. felt goes threw the shoulder gear rides on.
thanks


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## dlane

*Re: A couple more questions*

Any body know where to get a parts list / diagram for this vintage lathe ?.


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## Earl

*Re: A couple more questions*



dlane said:


> Any body know where to get a parts list / diagram for this vintage lathe ?.



Southbend lathe parts manuals are available on many different machining sites including this one.  Look in the files directory.


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## woodtickgreg

*Re: A couple more questions*



dlane said:


> Started in on Sb heavy 10 cleaning painting re-felting . first problem reverse tumbler gear shaft screw broken on rear gear "nut gone" anybody have one lying around or know where to find one ?. felt goes threw the shoulder gear rides on.
> thanks


I think I saw one, or an assembly on ebay. Worth a look.


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## dlane

Got a knockout nut and reverse tumbler stud screw from plaza mach $60 both were junk. knockout nut has a blown out hole and stud screw slipped rite in no pressing sloppy fit.  Any one know of a good source for heavy 10 parts.  
Thanks 
Derrick


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## martik777

$60 for a worn out stud screw and nut ??? Yikes!!!  Get a refund and put that lathe to work and make them.


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## Jonesturf

Contact Ted Pflunger (latheman2@aol.com). He has lots of good condition used and NOS parts. He used to work for South Bend. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


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## Jonesturf

And call plaza back. For $60 I would hope he would swap it or let you return it. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


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## Jonesturf

Wswells.com has parts diagrams. Click on parts and go to the link at the top that says next in green. Breaks it down by assembly.
You can also join the yahoo group southbendlathe and get help there too. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


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## Jonesturf

Pretty similar to mine and woodtickgreg's...ours are cousins. 




Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


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## dlane

*Re: started refurbish*

Ben busy cleaning seventy year old grease chips scum off of heavy 10 "still trying to come up with a name for her".
Base , bed, pan, legs, doors, under-drive cleaned / painted. Used about all methods mentioned here for cleaning / paint striping
oileater in parts washer did a good job degreasing and some paint removal ,electrolysis, chemical, needle scalier, all worked good for different things.
Paint- Benjamin Moore dtm supper spec in pic. Took a top from a can of dark gray rustoleum i have been using on the small stuff to B-M store for a scan color match. I think there scanner is color blind , the color i got is gray with a purple tint to it and I had to drive 80 mi to the next county to get it {CAL}  i got two gal's so i wouldn't run out. Didn't know it had purple tint till it was two coats dry after i moved it next to old atlas / craftsman that i painted with the rustoleum gray.
Sure enough just as i finished the final coat outside the guy across the street decided to plow and disk his field with the wind blowing my way.  Got the parts in the shop as quick as i could but i don't think that dust made the purple tint. Any how it looks good it kinda grows on you. 3/4 hp 110v G.E motor going to shop to get checked out, ran fine sounded good just making sure.
Went by the felt book to dissemble the lower drive and the puller damaged a bearing shield so i found a place that has nos ones so i ordered both, the old ones were a little noisy anyhow. Things getting pricey and i'm just getting started . 
I wanted to get the big stuff painted before the cold got here , I'll do the sub assemblies in the shop this winter hopefully with a little help from ya'll Thanks in advance. 
Question- motor two step v belt pulley to the under drive two step flat belt pulley is it rite?  running v belt. 
    O well this thing won't let me upload pics now for some reason ' i'll keep trying 
Thanks
Derrick 
Trying 640x480 123 kb pics do they need to be 800x600 332 kb  error said excedes quota by 6.99 mb
 top of download screen says 7.16 mb of 293. kb used . Sorry Me and these things don't get along reel good sometimes win 8.1:angry:  i'll try resizing to 800x600


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## JimDawson

640x480 is fine. Newer users have an upload restriction, as you post more then the upload space will increase, dramatically.

I'm not sure how you could go back and resize pictures you have already uploaded.


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## dlane

It would not let me upload from computer to site . Should i delete some pics loaded into site ?.
Thanks 
Derrick


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## Jonesturf

I know the flat pulley is confusing but it does run a v belt. That's the right way. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


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## JimDawson

I think that might work, but I'm not absolutely sure.  It would not hurt to delete some of the pictures in you previous posts. 

Go to Settings on the top, right of the page,  then scroll down, Attachments is on the left.  Turn on the Thumbnails so you can see what you are doing, then check the box on the right on the pictures that you want to delete, then scroll to the bottom and on the right, click Delete


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## dlane

No box on right to check "in manage attachments" to delete pictures


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## dlane

Hi all, Got the under drive done today new bearings ,painted,  motor in shop getting checked out should have it all back in tomorrow.  Any one know what the gears in pic 13 are for they all have "Boston" cast into them and they are steel. Are they worth anything and what type lathe are they for. PO said they they aren't for the heavy ten and didn't know what they went to.
Thanks 
Derrick 
ps. still tryin to post pic of progress:noidea:


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## JimDawson

The check boxes (little blue squares) I'm talking about are on the right side of this screen




This should allow you to delete pictures if you want.


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## dlane

Thanks jim , I've been to that page several times now ,Settings , attachments . I don't have the blue box's on right with thumbnails or without . I'm running Win, 8.1 don't know if it matters. I guess i got a little carried away with the pics , it would be nice to get rid of a some of them. error still says exceeds quota by 6.99 mb

Replaced lower drive bearings on cone pulley shaft, should these bearings be run in "no load" for a while ?.  
Thanks.


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## JimDawson

In that case, I don't know how you can manage the attachments.  Try another upload and see what happens.

As far as the new bearings, it can't hurt to run them in for a bit.  Where possible that's what I normally do.


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## dlane

Trying a couple pics, seems to work today won't overdo them this time . Hard to tell the purple tint in pics . Now trying to find a good motor drive v to flat belt , thinking of green gates belt from napa anyone try one?. wanting to run in the new lower drive bearings today and clean up shop.
Thanks


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## Reeltor

dlane said:


> Hi all, Got the under drive done today new bearings ,painted,  motor in shop getting checked out should have it all back in tomorrow.  Any one know what the gears in pic 13 are for they all have "Boston" cast into them and they are steel. Are they worth anything and what type lathe are they for. PO said they they aren't for the heavy ten and didn't know what they went to.
> Thanks
> Derrick
> ps. still tryin to post pic of progress:noidea:



The gears may be for metric threading on your lathe or not :think1:Your lathe has the gear box so you don't need to manually change the gears train but they may swap out for metric or just be "just in case" backups.  You can check with Boston Gear, on what replacements would be.  I'm sure they are not cheap. 
SB's go for big bucks, yours is well tooled and you got that nice SOB band saw to boot l)

Mike
(and I like the color)


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## dlane

Hi all was wondering if the reverse tumbler gear  studs are the same for the 10s 11s 13s . as one that came on the lathe the threads and nut were gone "Broke"and can't seem to find one that fits. 
Question=are the tumbler stud's different size for the different modals or are the whole reverse tumblers different?.
the gear studs i have gotten from supplyers have been to small to press into the reverse tumbler, the broke one needs pressing in . can't find one that presses in

thanks


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## Doubleeboy

Early in this tread OP requested info on oil.  You might try calling your local Mobil Oil dealer.  DTE light or Medium should do the trick.  They can cross reference oils going back decades.

nice project
michael


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## dlane

Couple questions 
1-reverse tumbler gear stud / screw , are they the same for the 10's 13's 14's , can't seem to find one that presses in like the broke one. Don't think i should try drilling - taping for a bolt instead of the threads that aren't there 
2- head stock thrust bearings , mine has only one inboard , can another one be added outboard- what would it take ? .

Got the head-stock painted , cleaned , new expander felt, the capillary oiler brass tube didn't protrude into bearing on gear end of spindle tho, dose it need to ?.  everything else looked good.
Guess the gear box is next so i can install the headstock any advice on double lever gear box do's/don'ts what to lookout for ?.
Wasn't reel happy with the paint color so i had them darken it a few shades for the separate assembles "it's going to be 50 shades gray"ondering:.

Hard drive on this thing crashed last week hp fixed it but lost alot of info. 
Thanks
Derrick


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## woodtickgreg

Yes Derrick, the capillary oil wick does need to protrude through the bearing and come in contact with the spindle. The tube should just barely protrude into the bearing but not come in contact with the spindle. One of mine was to low, I was able to pull it up with a socket head cap screw a vice grip and a hammer. Hold the bolt with the vice grip and insert it into the tube untill it is all the way through. Then move the bolt to the side until the head is outside of the tube. Tap the vice grips with a hammer until the tube is pulled up just into the bearing shell.


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## Jonesturf

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...e-brass-recessed-oiler-tube-headstock-276756/

That was how I raised my oil tubes up. The little bugger wouldn't budge any other way. Woodtickgreg's way is sound but if they are really stuck you might have to go bigger like I did.


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## dlane

Thanks for the replies , looks like I'll be pulling the spindle again to pull up tube.
the reverse tumbler has me stumped , need to find one that presses in, got one from plaza and it sliped in so i returned it with my broke one joe said he checked several against mine and  could not find one with the same dimensions as my broke one.
Thanks
Derrick


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## dlane

Hi all , The gear box is going together today , Its cleaned,painted all parts look good.
Apron is next I'm thinking of trying to find a lever clutch instead of star knob is it worth it ?.
Had to beat out a apron top screw, going to try Allen screws instead might have to mod them tho.
Thanks
Derrick


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## woodtickgreg

dlane said:


> Apron is next I'm thinking of trying to find a lever clutch instead of star knob is it worth it ?
> Thanks
> Derrick


I have gotten used to the star knob on mine, it really doesn't take much of a turn to get it to engage or dissengage. But if you can find a lever assembly for a price you can live with then I say why not.
Greg


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## dlane

Got the oil tubes pulled up a bit, head-stock reassembled , gear box done all looked good anyone know lead screw end play adj  . Finding alot of differences between book and my heavy ten tho. Started in on the apron dis assembly today  any "need to know things" on that .  After that is the saddle cross slide & compound i'm ordering new screw brass nuts , are they different with a taper attach?. After that is done it's adjustments ,dialing it in and 
CHIPS   DONE i hopehew:.   
O yea the reverse tumbler gear stud screw :holdphone:
Thanks
Derrick


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## dlane

HI all, got the apron done except, waiting on half nut lever/cam from joe. The saddle, cross slide ,taper attach, paint is drying.Got new cross slide / compound bronze nuts . Ted is sending reverse tumbler gear stud after holidays. Glued new 8 rib serpentine belt with flexible super glue, filled spindle cone pulley and back gear shaft w/ super lube, ran head stock, lower drive, motor for a while, all ran smooth and quiet, large spindle bearing and inside spindle seemed to get a little warm after 15 min tho. 
Had to step it up with getting this lathe done as i'll be having shoulder surgery mid jan . :bitingnails:
 Thanks to you all for your help, suggestions, advice. I'll post final pics and mach performance results after the first when all parts are in and on. 
Do the felt kits/ book normally come with extra felt , I'm sure i got what the book said put in but there is extra felt?.  
O yea anyone use machine leveling feet "amazon", with or without rubber pads, as i will not be able to bolt lathe down to floor and thought they might be good ? . I'll probably make 1/4" plates with 1/2" hole to match footprint of castings for them.
Thanks again and y'all have a great holiday  
Derrick


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## woodtickgreg

Yeah you will have some extra felt with the kit. The bearing should not get warm, I would address that, sounds like it might be a little tight. I can run mine for hours and it never even gets warm. You don't want to gall one of those bearings, they are hard to come by.


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## dlane

Hi all' Been busy with lathe, except for dialing it in and a belt it's DONE. I was running it for a while to see if spindle bearing was still getting warm and my serpentine belt glue let go,"I have a new C link belt headed this way", but bearing stayed cool. Any how still have to clean up chucks & tooling dial in tail stock. chucks are 6" 3-4 jaw south bend " any easy way to clean then up rust"? As you can see i had to make a half ass half nut lever but it will work.Got one off of feebay 99 parts but it had a lot bigger shaft size i think it's for a 16" if anyone needs one 
During this refurbish the internals of machine were in remarkably good shape just real dirty but its looking pretty good now i think and should do every thing i need it to. Still need to make it some what mobile tho 
"Parts replaced"
all felt
reverse tumbler gear stud 
new nuts for cross slide & compound
under drive cone bearings 
main belt--- on the way
Thanks to all for your input & help sorry i didn't document all steps as Greg's posts would be hard to beat "Thanks Greg"& Ted   
I'll be having rotate r cuff surgery on the 15th so i won't be doing much for a while but i'm glad its back together.
Thanks again "some pics" 
Derrick





.


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## woodtickgreg

It sure looks nice, you did a great job. Enjoy!


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## Ski

You did a great job. Looks brand new.


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## dlane

Thanks Greg & Ski This lathe will mostly be used with collets drilling shaping copper bullets for writing pens
Any one know an easy one armed way to clean chucks up , thinking of mounting them and using scotch bright then taking them apart and cleaning jaws and such . Also the chuck and back plate at bottom of pic i don't think i can use on 10l 1 1/2 x8 threads, but can use on atlas what are the things sticking out of them for? 
Derrick


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## Ski

I just did a clean up on a used Buck I picked up. Look for "chuck woes revisted" in the questions and answers for dome pictures.  What I did was take it apart after insuring the jaws were marked as to location. Mine had 2 piece and were all marked. I Made sure there were witness marks on the seperate piece so it would go back together exactly the same and then scrubbed my butt off with scotch brite and purple degreaser. I was not happy so I used oily 240 emery paper to start on the back plate chucked up and spinning. Then I left the guts/jaws off of the chuck and reassembled and did the same using a block to keep the paper flat as possible and cleaned up the rest. Not perfect but way better than I started. Rescrubed the grit off ,lubed and put it together. Wire brushed the jaws. Thanks for posting! Ski


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## dlane

Hi all, So the link belt came in and theirs no way it's going to work it's to thick to fit threw the castings it would beat the heck out them it a c section link . I'll have to order something else, I seem to recall it should be 61 1/2" dose this sound rite for a heavy 10 cast base ?.
So close but i'll have to " hurry up and wait " I'll do searches on serpentine belts / glue , don't feel good with stitching or clips.
Thanks 
Derrick


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## wlburton

I went with the green belt that Al Bino sells.  He talked me through measuring for the new belt and I ended up with 62 3/16" (by 1" wide) which was perfect.  I wouldn't be surprised if they vary some from lathe to lathe.  I put my adjuster right in the middle and haven't had to change it.  I think my original belt was 61 1/2, but it always seemed too tight.

 The gluing was pretty straightforward--he sends detailed instructions.

Bill


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## Jonesturf

wlburton said:


> I went with the green belt that Al Bino sells.  He talked me through measuring for the new belt and I ended up with 62 3/16" (by 1" wide) which was perfect.  I wouldn't be surprised if they vary some from lathe to lathe.  I put my adjuster right in the middle and haven't had to change it.  I think my original belt was 61 1/2, but it always seemed too tight.
> 
> The gluing was pretty straightforward--he sends detailed instructions.
> 
> Bill




I originally tried the serpentine belt...twice. My second belt was a leftover from my Mustang and it lasted longer than the first.  Should have gone with the green belt from Al Bino. It's the cat's ass. The gluing has held up much better. I needed something reliable this time since I use it for my business and this belt delivers. Considering a serpentine belt is around $25-35 it's worth paying extra for the right belt with the right glue. Do yourself a favor and and get one of them. I have a buddy who used one too and his is holding up great.


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## dlane

Thanks y'all I tried goggling Al bino with no luck ,I'ed like to have one ready to put on after i recuperate from rotate r cuff surgery in the morning was told 6 weeks recuperation :bitingnails:. i'm thinking 4 weeks, lathe wants to run. Anyway how to contact Al Bino ?.
Thanks
Derrick


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## wlburton

*http://flatdrivebelts-anysize.com

Bill*


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## dlane

wlburton said:


> I went with the green belt that Al Bino sells.  He talked me through measuring for the new belt and I ended up with 62 3/16" (by 1" wide) which was perfect.  I wouldn't be surprised if they vary some from lathe to lathe.  I put my adjuster right in the middle and haven't had to change it.  I think my original belt was 61 1/2, but it always seemed too tight.
> 
> The gluing was pretty straightforward--he sends detailed instructions.
> 
> Bill




Thanks Bill I ordered a green belt from Al Bino as soon as i got home from hosp. With some help we measured 62 5/8"


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## dlane

So got new belt on tried first cut on a 3/8 bolt , made the flats round then turned the od, got a rough finish . Long story short cross slide screw is worn in center. I put a new bronze nut on it but didn't check play in center of screw . Hopefully Steve w can get me going with new screw, shaft, gear. Was hopeing to use thrust bearings instead of bushings for taper shaft.


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## dlane

*Hope someone can help*

Hi all ,  After trying machine I was getting rough cuts and determined the 
cross slide was to sloppy so I removed x slide screw assembly and managed to find the whole screw assembly on eBay ,dial to shaft, it was pricey but I wanted it rite ,as the one that came with Mach was Frankensteined, you can see in pic.
Any how the ball crank gear shaft I got has a bent /cracked spline ,the apron gear doesn't ride on the bent part but dose ride over the crack that is on both sides of the spline don't know how much pressure is on spline but don't want coming apart . 
Question: u think spline can be repaired ( brazed ,welded ,jb weld ) 
this setup was pricey but I need to be making chips and don't know when another  better taper ball crank shaft gear will come up. eBay listing stated in     " in excelant condition " if fixable I'll try for partial refund. Here are some pics
 Thanks for any suggestions.                                      iPads make this easy.
the pic with both assembly's ,the one on bottom is what came on Mach ,starting to wish I didn't get taper.


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## dlane

Hi all , not to crazy bout new site software but I'll deal with it.
So I got another shaft gear that I repaired the key in , seems the pin hole was not centered on key slot probably hand drilled , started reassembly of shaft gear , thrust bearings, 0 dial bushing , and pined bushing. 
Turns out all the holes on this assembly are hand drilled Evan the ball crank handle pin hole, off center and crooked so the parts are not interchangeable on the telescoping gear shaft. Now I have three gear shafts that don't work . If I can't find a good shaft with original bushing ,pin ,and ball crank I'll have to redrill all holes to assembly , haven't figured out how to drill hole with thrust bearings tight , no play,
Eather  that or I have a expensive boat anker 
Derrick


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## dlane

Got the gear shaft cross slide taper all working good thanks for the help.
It seems the spindle is still getting a little warm on the big end ,  lift test showed .001   
Guess I'll be pulling spindle again checking shims : big end to small end dif: 
Flush oil , put in new oil . 
Any other  suggestions ?.
The pc I had all the how to downloads on crashed again , and lost them , and seems the site has problems with the downloads section ,       Timing is everything.        Also the curser on this iPad won't go back anymore
Think it's the site software    It works every ware else.
Anyhow thanks for any suggestions 
Derrick


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## compsurge

Hopefully this can get you started: http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1617&tab=3

The bearing getting hot should indicate an issue with the bearing clearance. Definitely check the shims and the bolt torque. "Warm" may be normal.


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## dlane

I've never seen anything on bolt torques for anything on these machines ,  is there torque specs ? I've often wondered about that.
Thanks
Derrick


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## compsurge

I didn't see a torque on the 10L sheet (SBL_form_2002.pdf), so perhaps not.


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## dlane

When I dissembled head stock for cleaning I noticed the bearing caps were snug not tight and the expanders were not tight eather , don't know if it was getting warm then ,I didn't run it long  it was a mess.
I'm thinking  10 - 12 ft lbs on caps and 4-5 in lbs on ex panders after checking shims flushing .
Derrick


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## joebiplane

dlane said:


> Got a knockout nut and reverse tumbler stud screw from plaza mach $60 both were junk. knockout nut has a blown out hole and stud screw slipped rite in no pressing sloppy fit.  Any one know of a good source for heavy 10 parts.
> Thanks
> Derrick



I'm sure joe at Plaza machine will take it back and provide a full refund.  he is a very reputable source and probably your best choice....give him a call or e-mail back.


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## dlane

Thanks joe , me and joe at plaza are squared up, thanks for reminding me about plaza , I'm now looking for old atlas/craftsman Dp parts I'll give him a try.


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