# Speed handle for 5" mill vises?



## Alan H. (May 11, 2017)

There has been some discussion on another thread on speed handles for 5" vises.  Thought we should start a thread on that specific topic.   

Speed handles for 5" Glacern vises do not seem to be currently commercially available and I and others have been looking for one.  The 5" Glacern vices have 5/8" hex drives on them vs. the 3/4" found on 6" vises.  

@Ken226 has made a prototype for the 5" vice along with another for a smaller vice as well.   I am hoping Ken will post his efforts here for all to see.  

Meanwhile if you know of a source or have ideas, let us know.


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## Silverbullet (May 12, 2017)

Watched a YouTube awhile ago and the guy used a socket inserted in a six inch hand wheel  I think he used set screws on ground flats or milled ones. Worked pretty good from what I saw. Easy job and not real costly either.


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## darkzero (May 12, 2017)

Only other option I currently know of are the spoked speed handles. Some people prefer them more than the style I like/have. Enco used to sell the Gibraltar (MSC house brand) for a good price but unfortunately that's not an option anymore. MSC is currently selling them for just under $27

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/42052845



There's another brand on ebay also for $33 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QT-5-Vise-Speed-Handle-5-8-Hex-For-5-Vises-NEW-USA-Made-/322433732371




Another option is to get one of the speed handles for a 6", bore & insert a 5/8" hex, either a socket or your own machined hex.

A few more ideas in this thread. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/speed-handles-for-milling-vises.22345/


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## burtonbr (May 12, 2017)

One of the first projects I made on my CNC a few months ago was a speed handle for the vise. Tormach 4" vise also have a 5/8" hex, some one on eBay was selling a similar one at one time but I don't seem to find it now. Did it first from 6061 for practice and thought I'd go back and make one from CR steel but this aluminium one is holding up fine.
I could pop out a few more if someone wanted one. 
EDIT : I just looked at my vice for reference, the 4" I have is smaller hex it is .571"


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## RJSakowski (May 12, 2017)

The handle that came with my Grizzly 4" vise was awkward to use on my Tormach PCNC770 with the enclosure in place.  I bought a 3/8" 14mm deep well socket and with a 3" extension and Tee bar, I have a handle that clears the enclosure and that I can spin with one finger.  Should I choose to mount the vise crosswise, I can substitute a ratchet for the Tee bar.  It works great and had a minimal cost and expenditure of time.


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## Terrywerm (May 12, 2017)

There was a member here (or maybe it was a different forum) that made some speed handles to fit the Glacern 5" vises. I bought one from him and love it. Sad part is that I cannot remember who it was.


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## woodchucker (May 12, 2017)

Make your own, you have the equipment right?
I am making one for an old bridgeport square 3/4 drive. Only a few minutes to do the body, I've got to make a handle.


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## Alan H. (May 12, 2017)

terrywerm said:


> There was a member here (or maybe it was a different forum) that made some speed handles to fit the Glacern 5" vises. I bought one from him and love it. Sad part is that I cannot remember who it was.


Terry, was it Will (Darkzero)?


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## Terrywerm (May 12, 2017)

Turns out that it was. How did you know?  He had them listed in the classified section at the time. Here is the original thread on them: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/speed-handles-for-milling-vises.22345/


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## Alan H. (May 12, 2017)

Terry, I knew about this because I had found that thread a few months back and contacted Will to see if he still had some.  Unfortunately they are long gone.

Will and Terry, what are the dimensions on those handles?  Thickness of material?  Centerline of the outboard 5/8" hex to centerline of handle?


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## woodchucker (May 12, 2017)

BTW if you ever need to figure dimensions out, you can easily scale the image. If the vise is  6" across (base) or 5" jaws,  measure the vise in the image ,calculate the ratio, measure the wrench..
Or just wing it.. looks about right... after all this is not critical.


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## Ken226 (May 12, 2017)

I'm going to do a small run of 9/16, 5/8 and 14mm speed handles to put on eBay in the next 2 weeks.

I'll post a pic of the design later, when I have access to a computer. Dealing with Photobucket on a smartphone is maddening.

I went with a relatively short distance between the knob and center socket, for a faster spin, and a shorter overall length as well.  One doesn't need a huge about of leverage to tighten a vise.

I'm also pressing an 8mm x 8mm neodymium magnet into the back so it can be stored on any metal surface.

Here's a rendered image from CAD:







And 2 prototypes I fabricated and have been using in my own shop:





While visually, the design may not be quite as pleasing to the eye as others, I specifically designed it to be doable on a manual mill and lathe.

The center socket lets you spin the handle pretty quickly and get jaws snug, and the end socket gives plenty of leverage.  The 5/8 handle is 5-3/4 overall length, and the 9/16 and 14mm handles are 5-1/4.   Both have enough moment arm to damage the aluminum, and possibly even your vise.  I kinda like the shorter length, as it helps discourage over-tightening the vise.


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## T Bredehoft (May 12, 2017)

I made one, similar to the above, but by MNC*, not CNC.  I drilled the six points of the hexes with 1/16 in drill, before drilling the main holes (depending on needed size) then filed it to fit the hex. Over all length was dependent upon clearing the Y hand wheel in speed mode. 

*MNC = Manual Numeric Control.


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## darkzero (May 12, 2017)

Alan H said:


> Terry, I knew about this because I had found that thread a few months back and contacted Will to see if he still had some.  Unfortunately they are long gone.
> 
> Will and Terry, what are the dimensions on those handles?  Thickness of material?  Centerline of the outboard 5/8" hex to centerline of handle?
> 
> View attachment 233360



Alan, last night I made a post about the those speed handles. After realizing you already knew about them, I edited out my post & since I sold out of them I felt it was irrelevant to this thread.

From the center of the outboard hole to the handle center it's about 5-1/8". The thickness is just under 3/4". If you'd like, I can scan it & send you a PDF if you'd like to get some made.

The handle on mine is fixed. These were originally sold by the original seller as bare aluminum. What annoyed me is because it was bare aluminum, with use it the handle would turn your hand black as you are essentially "polishing" it. So when I had the run made I choose to anodize them clear to take care of that, they used to have a much shinier finish. If you get some made, another option is to use revolving handles if you don't want to get them anodized as most anodizers charge a minimum. I had like 15 or 20 made so anodizing was reasonable for that amount.

On Ken's version (which are very nice BTW), the center hole appears offset & closer to the handle where as the one I have appears to be more centered. His would allow even faster action. I don't know what his dimensions are compared to mine but with mine I think it's perfect. I never even use the outboard hole for more torque. When I tighten parts down, I use one hand on the handle & the other hand on the other end to snug down which is 99.99998% of the time.


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## Alan H. (May 12, 2017)

Ken, your inclusion of a magnet is a good idea.  Nice looking handle.  I noticed that Edge is making one that has a magnet in a model they make for 6 inchers.  Are you going to put them on the classifieds and sell a couple?

Will, thanks for the dimension.  I like the concept of the middle hex being centered.  Yes, I would like the pdf and I will PM you.


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## Ken226 (May 12, 2017)

I hadn't considered putting them in the classifieds. Ebay will be a test, to gauge interest.

If they go fast, ill make a lot more.     If not, then ill just rid myself of this 50 and call it done!!

The center to center distance from the handle to the middle socket is 2.125",  the center to center distance between the hex sockets is 2.74".
I used a shoulder screw for the revolving handle.  Though theres no bearings, a drop of grease on the shoulder screws before assembly makes it rotate very smoothly.


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## darkzero (May 12, 2017)

Ok, I'll try to get it done tonight & email you along with some dimensions. I have to go to the dentist in a few hrs so if I don't feel well after I'll do it tomorrow.


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## Ken226 (May 12, 2017)

It sounds like bare aluminum isn't quite the way to go.   I'm not set up for anodizing but have plenty of Cerakote in various colors.  

I'm wondering if blasting, cerakoting and curing would make these more or less attractive? I've got several pints of cobalt, burnt bronze and gunmetal Cerakote, as well as some Gunkote in coyote tan, flat dark Earth, od green, and earth brown  that are a few years old, I could use up on these handles


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## Alan H. (May 12, 2017)

Ken226 said:


> I hadn't considered putting them in the classifieds. Ebay will be a test, to gauge interest.
> 
> If they go fast, ill make a lot more.     If not, then ill just rid myself of this 50 and call it done!!
> 
> ...


Please give us the ebay link when you get them done and listed.


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## Ken226 (May 12, 2017)

Ok, will do.


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## DaveInMi (May 12, 2017)

I slapped this together when I first got my mill vise to just to get started.  It works so well I don't plan to make a "better" one.  It is a speed handle if you hold it almost in line with the vise screw and at a right angle it will apply torque.


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## darkzero (May 12, 2017)

Alan H said:


> Will, thanks for the dimension. I like the concept of the middle hex being centered. Yes, I would like the pdf and I will PM you.



No problem, I emailed it to you. As you will see, with the handle I have, the center hex actually has a slightly longer distance to the handle compared to the outboard hex.


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## darkzero (May 12, 2017)

Ken226 said:


> It sounds like bare aluminum isn't quite the way to go.   I'm not set up for anodizing but have plenty of Cerakote in various colors.
> 
> I'm wondering if blasting, cerakoting and curing would make these more or less attractive? I've got several pints of cobalt, burnt bronze and gunmetal Cerakote, as well as some Gunkote in coyote tan, flat dark Earth, od green, and earth brown  that are a few years old, I could use up on these handles



On yours it looks like you use fasteners to bolt on the handle, with just a slight modification, you could easily make it a revolving handle instead. That should take care of the "hand polishing" issue.


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## Ken226 (May 12, 2017)

Mine is a revolving handle. The knob rotates independant of the rest of the handle.

The fastener is a shoulder screw. I'd post a pic of what a shoulder screw is, but I'm on a smartphone and have no idea how to do that.  There was a time when I could right click, find "properties", then copy the URL. Seems the stopped that on phones.

The screw has a 2" unthreaded shank. My knob has a countersunk end only to enclose the shoulder screw head, but the countersink is .01 larger in diameter than the shoulder screw head.  The knobs smaller diameter inside bore is .5" diameter and 1.99 long.  The shoulder screws bearing shank is 2" long and .495" diameter.   The knob, installed with 1 drop of grease on the shoulder screws shank, spins like it on ball bearings.

But, it is absolutely, a revolving knob. Rather smooth turning too I might add


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## woodchucker (May 12, 2017)

well mine is not pretty, but after using it a while it will be less pretty. It will definitely hit the front clamp area of the vise and get beat up.
Handle is anodized tubing I had with  a lip so I could recess the screw. just a 1/4 20 long carriage bolt with the head cut down, the square removed,  then slotted . works as it should. Didn't overthink it, just made it.


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## Ken226 (May 12, 2017)

Looks great Woodchucker!

Looks and fluff are for those of us trying to sell something! For those who are making their own hard use tools, fluff is irrelevant


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## darkzero (May 12, 2017)

Ken226 said:


> Mine is a revolving handle. The knob rotates independant of the rest of the handle.
> 
> The fastener is a shoulder screw. I'd post a pic of what a shoulder screw is, but I'm on a smartphone and have no idea how to do that.  There was a time when I could right click, find "properties", then copy the URL. Seems the stopped that on phones.
> 
> ...



In that case you should be fine not cerakoteing it or anodize. The bare machined finish looks best IMO!


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## Dave Paine (May 13, 2017)

My version of a speed handle for my vise.  An example of using the tools and materials available.  At the time I made this I did not have a mill, but I did have a milling vise mounted on my drill press.  The vise has a 14 mm hex.

I picked up a 14mm 6 sided socket at a local flea market.  I wanted a deeper socket but did not find one at the time.

A piece of cherry cut to size.  I did not have any metal of desired size.  The knobs are threaded for 1/4in x 20 tpi bolts.  Cut the heads of the bolts and drilled 1/4in holes in the cherry.  This was a bit of a prototype so I did not glue these in place, just press fit.




I now have a mill and a new Shars vise which also has 14mm hex.  I now have a deep 6 sided socket to make an improved speed handle.

The short spokes do not interfere and I can spin this with one finger.  It is not designed for torque, but works for speed.


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## Alan H. (May 13, 2017)

I am woodworker, so I like wood.  Did you knurl the cherry in your metal lathe?


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## Dave Paine (May 13, 2017)

Alan H said:


> I am woodworker, so I like wood.  Did you knurl the cherry in your metal lathe?



I am also a woodworker and wood turner so lots of wood boards and turning pieces on hand.  I did knurl on the metal lathe.  I did this for better grip but once I added the spokes it did not make difference, although I do like the look.


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## Ken226 (May 30, 2017)

I finished a couple handles and put them up on eBay, to gauge the demand and see if it's worth doing more.  The first two are a 9/16 for 4" Kurt and Glacern type vises, and a 14mm for Shars and Grizzly types.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/9-16-Milling-...%3A5bd2ddad15c0a9c558eb096cfffd663a%7Ciid%3A2

http://m.ebay.com/itm/14mm-Milling-...%3A5bd40bf115c0ab14f7bb91dbfffc806e%7Ciid%3A1


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## burtonbr (Jun 4, 2017)

Looks good Ken,
I had some time today, so I set up to run 2 of these at once from 1 piece of stock, they came out pretty good about 6" long, 5/8" thick with .635 hex for 5/8".
If anyone would like either of them I'll post em up in the trade forum. Trade for tools, stock, aluminium or steel, endmills or whatever you got I'll consider.


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## tjb (Jun 12, 2017)

Making your own speed wrench is a great practice exercise.  Here are some pictures of one I made for my Kurt 6" vise.  I made it out of a spare 3/4" deep well 6 point socket laying around my shop, welded to some shaped scrap metal.  It has a swivel handle with a plastic bushing and it works great.  Not particularly pretty, but I was more interested in trying to learn how to cut tapers and make a swivel handle.  The entire project took a lazy afternoon piddling in my shop.
	

		
			
		

		
	







Regards,
Terry


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## Ken226 (Jul 24, 2017)

Ive made a small batch in sizes commonly found on vises, other than 3/4.   

14mm, 9/16, 5/8 and 17mm.  On average, ive sold about 1 per week on ebay.  Oddly, the 14mm seems to be the most popular.


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## sanddan (Jul 25, 2017)

My favorite vise handle is a cutoff wrench of the appropriate size with a large ball bearing welded to the end. Mine is about 1 1/4" dia that I bought off ebay. You can spin it with your finger and has great leverage to tighten. Saw it first on oxtoolco's your tube channel.


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