# Dug Up My Old Drill Mill



## hardwarz (Jul 17, 2015)

In my parent's basement, I found my old Homier 03989 drill mill. I purchased this in the 90's when I designed aftermarket paintball parts. I would design the parts and have a local machine shop manufacturer them. At some point, I found the Homier traveling tool sale and purchased the drill mill with the idea that I would prototype the parts at home before having the machine shop make them. I never ended up using it.

Since the drill mill has been sitting around, I decided that I should use it. I've been doing some research I realized that this drill mill should be nothing more than an accurate drill press for the pure fact that it has no Z axis fine feed. Other things that need addressed on this machine are:

The drill arbor was found rusty in a box. It is a MT2 with an external collar and a Jacob's #33 (?) at the other end. I cleaned the rust, but there is slight pitting. I'm not sure if this is still usable or if I should just order a new arbor. The arbor also has threading for a M10 x 1.50 mm drawbar. I'm confused about the collar. I'm assuming it's used to push the drill chuck off?

I'm finding it difficult to find MT2 collets with M10 metric drawbar. I can easily find ER20 collet holders with an MT2  taper and an M10 drawbar. There isn't any reason I shouldn't use this to hold end mills, correct?

The drill mill doesn't have a Z axis fine feed. I have a design in mind, but I need a lathe
(See images.)

Thanks in advance for any help.


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## RJSakowski (Jul 17, 2015)

It is my understanding that a collar is required when using a Morse taper arbor for milling because side forces encountered during milling will loosen the arbor with sometimes disastrous results. A drawbar would also work.

Bob


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## hardwarz (Jul 17, 2015)

This is the arbor and collar.


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## hardwarz (Jul 18, 2015)

So, apparently, the arbor is NOT a Jacobs #33 or Jacobs #3. It turns out it's a B18. It just so happens that the hardware store had a B18 that it was shipped accidentally. It had been sitting for over a year. I picked it up for $20.00.


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## David S (Jul 19, 2015)

I purchased my MT2 collets from CTC tools\

http://www.ctctools.biz/morse-taper-2-collet-set-7-pcs-metric-c94/

David


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## WalterC (Jul 24, 2015)

Does it look like this one?








  I get razzed about the color. But I spent many many years with everything painted gray. I wanted something more light- however it was suppose to be a little darker...

I've done some practice milling with this machine and it is slow but will do a good job if you don't go bigger than 3/8" bits.
You must be careful and very slow with a climbing cut and make sure you have everything tightened very well.

In fact I milled the plate for the tool post for the lathe.

I had to make a drawbar for mine to fit the collets. The original was metric.

 I'm waiting for a good mill to show up for a great price- I'm patient.


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## hardwarz (Jul 24, 2015)

That's exactly what I have. I considered switching to 3/8" drawbar, but there's a lot of M10 stuff out there, so I think I'll keep the M10 drawbar. I have two MT2 arbors that are tapped for the M10-1.50mm.  I put a B16 & B18 chucks on them.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jul 24, 2015)

that collar is exactly what you think it is for - to force the chuck off the arbor. I can't imagine you'd need to do it that often, but I'm sure you'd appreciate it if you did!


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## hardwarz (Jul 26, 2015)

Today, I reinforced the workbench. The top was 2" x 12" planks. I glued and screwed 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood on top. Now my work bench is 3" thick. 




I got the drill mill home and started cleaning it. It's been sitting in my parent's musty basement for over a decade. I was afraid that the table would be covered in rust. I was happy to find out that it wasn't. It's covered in cosmoline. Some of the cosmoline has turned into varnish. It's going to take several days to clean it.


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## hardwarz (Jul 26, 2015)

I looked at the drawbar today too. The drawbar is a M10 x 275 mm. I thought it would be some elaborate piece. Apparently it's just a long bolt. I think I can just put in a 3/8" - 16 threaded rod in there and use permanent Loctite on a nut at the end.


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## planeflyer21 (Jul 27, 2015)

Covered in cosmoline...and black widow egg sacks?!  What are those little white spheres?


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## hardwarz (Jul 27, 2015)

White spheres is styrofoam.


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## Bill C. (Jul 27, 2015)

I like your bench design.  I watched "This Old House" on one of their shows they glued two pieces of 1/2" plywood to form a strong bench top.


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## hardwarz (Jul 28, 2015)

The black bolt is the metric (M10-1.50 mm) drawbar.

The all thread (3/8"-16) rod is the new drawbar I'll be using.


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## hardwarz (Aug 5, 2015)

So, I made some assumptions when buying tooling online. I assumed that all mills used 1/2 slots. 

I was using/referencing the Harbor Freight manual for the 42976 drill mill even though my drill mill is a Homier. They are similar, but there are differences, like the drawbar and apparently the slots. The slots on my drill mill is 7/16", not 1/2"

So, now I am the owner of both 7/16" clamping set and a 1/2" clamping set. At least the steps are identical between the sets.

On a side note, I think I need to buy a second 7/16" clamping set.

(I still have to bolt the drill mill to the bench.)


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## turnitupper (Aug 6, 2015)

Hardwarz,
That machine looks more robust than my X2 mill. If you have room, a coupling nut instead if the normal nut on your drawbar is better as after a few whacks, the mushroom makes it hard to fit a spanner whereas with a longer nut you can use the lower part until you need to grind it back. That fine feed looks like a good plan and if you get too much play, a gas strut to hold the head up is one idea. Regarding the clamping set, can't you mill down the tee nuts to fit your table or make/buy some and use all thread for the bolts. They do'nt have to be super strong in this table. I use coach bolts with ground down heads sometimes. Waiting for your 4 axis CNC conversion.
John.


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## SEK_22Hornet (Aug 23, 2015)

I got bit on a clamping set with my first mill - I bought a Grizzly G0704 and the manual said it had 1/2 T slots. Turned out to be 12mm, so I had to replace the 1/2 nuts with 7/16 nuts like these - http://www.grizzly.com/products/T-Slot-Nuts-pk-of-4-7-16-Slot-3-8-16/G9511 from Grizzly -


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## hardwarz (Aug 23, 2015)

I ended up buying a 7/16" clamping set. I thought I'd sell the 5/8" set, but I've actually been using it. The step blocks are the same milling, so holding a larger plate is easier.


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