# New To Me 11" Logan 920



## Charlieman22

New to machining in general - so lots of blind spots.
Was trying to get a small part machined for my Vespa
Next thing I knew - I had acquired a 4000lb mill in need of rehab (https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/beauty-in-the-beast-webb-5bvk-barn-find-conversion.92961/)
Which lead to an alarming amount of deliveries to my door of various tooling.
Which metastasized into an 11" Logan 920 mill purchased this morning as I was innocently drinking a cup of coffee.
Side note: If my wife asks, all of this is about $250 worth of stuff.

Lathe seems in pretty good shape.
Plugs into 110 outlet, runs forward and reverse, no apparent major clicking/clacking.
Was owned for past 40 years by 91yr old gentleman recently deceased.
Son in-law says it has had very light use during that time - and my general impression matches.

Plan is to disassemble to move this Saturday.
This will allow me to load into truck, but also clean and examine all the working bits on reassembly.
Will also give me a sense of how things operate.
It comes with some tooling - 1/2 of which I have no idea what it is.
The other half - I have no idea how to use...
Yet.

It's possible that some components are elsewhere in this gentleman's very full garage.
Am posting in hopes that anything I should be looking for/aware of - might get flagged.
Also welcome any insights on disassembly.
Found the Tubalcain video ( 



)  which is very helpful - but it lacks the one bit I have the most questions on: motor drive unit removal.
It rests on a post - and appears like it might just be sitting on it via gravity?

All feedback/advice/critiquing welcome.
Question at the end of the pictures on one particular item.
Thanks in advance!
-CM


















This last photo, I am told, is for a collet closer.  I believe it belongs to this machine - and I see there is a collet holding tool included.  Not sure how exactly it fits on - or if its all there.


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## Norseman C.B.

The first lathe I owned was a 920 good solid machine, the collet closer is a big plus, and the included tooling is gravy !!
Good deal and good luck with it...............


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## Alcap

Very nice !  When you go pick it up take some extra $$$ And see if there’s anything else you might need down the road . Stock cabinets, maybe tooling for your mill . Years of machining you never know what goodies yo might come across. Good Luck


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## mmcmdl

Charlieman22 said:


> It comes with some tooling - 1/2 of which I have no idea what it is.
> The other half - I have no idea how to use...


 Welcome to the site and congrats on the machines ! Let the fun begin .


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## Charlieman22

Thanks Gents.
Will definitely show up with a bit of cash in hand - and do some rummaging.
Was suggested to me that there might be a whack of 5C collets hiding somewhere in there - given the holder and closer - so I will certainly hunt for that.

Wondering if the crowd might be able to identify some of the components in the pictures.
I've labeled them with letters to help.
Much appreciated.
-CM


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## tmenyc

Let the fun begin is right! It looks great, nicer than my 820 when I got it, similar story. And you got a collet closer...bet there's a rack of collets still there waiting for you.


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## Charlieman22

tmenyc said:


> bet there's a rack of collets still there waiting for you.


Great minds...
Will definitely hunt for them!
Would be a nice beni.


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## Steve-F

A is a knurl tool, C and H appear to be from a lantern tool post, G are more knurl wheels   You have well so far Grasshopper!


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## Charlieman22

Oh man.
Though I can't exactly explain why myself - I have always wanted the ability to knurl an item!
Tks!


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## Charlieman22

Ok - so Steve identified A, C, H, & G.  
Thanks Steve!
Could still use some help with B, D, E, F, and I if anyone else wants to take a stab?!
Feels like I am hosting the '70's game show "Liars Club"!
	

		
			
		

		
	




Looking back at the pictures, of the lathe tooling that is, I think I see a collet - and it seams to have some sort of tail on it.
That's a mystery to me.
I assumed these would be 5C collets.
Perhaps it is - and that is a tool holder of some kind screwed on to it.  

If so, my question is - what is that tail and how does it interact with the lathe?


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## Nogoingback

Congrats on the new lathe.  You did well.  Your question about the drive box is that yes, it rests on top of the
cast column.  There should be a rubber bumper on a pin at the bottom.  If you look at how the assembly attaches
at the top, there are rubber mounts as well.  Thus, the whole assembly is isolated from the headstock to reduce vibration.


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## Charlieman22

Nogoingback said:


> Congrats on the new lathe. You did well. Your question about the drive box is that yes, it rests on top of the
> cast column. There should be a rubber bumper on a pin at the bottom. If you look at how the assembly attaches
> at the top, there are rubber mounts as well. Thus, the whole assembly is isolated from the headstock to reduce vibration.


Great.  Makes sense.
Perhaps some wood blocking and some straps  to hold things in place as I loosen/remove hinge pins or bolts will be a help.
I'm prepping a bag of tools to bring with me - I will include.
Thank you.
Helpful.


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## extropic

Need a better picture of B and D to be sure. B sort of looks like a nut for the cross feed screw. Maybe that's a worn one. Maybe it's a new one.
E is a tool post for holding round shank tools, such as boring bars (and milling cutters). F are lathe dogs (for driving shafts between centers in conjunction with the drive plate). The collet looking thing has me scratching my head. It's not 5C. The back end looks like it could be a work stop accessory. It might be some sort of special tool. A good picture of the business end of the "collet" might shed some light.


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## Steve-F

That's a collet stop, keeps your part at a constant position


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## Shiseiji

Couple of FYI's. The motor may have oil wadding lubrication, double check. If it is, motor oil is no longer to be found, best thing these days, IMHO, is sewing machine oil.
I'd look around for a steady rest and a taper attachment. Let us know if you need pictures.

Others can share their opinions, but the good news is the peg leg is on the platform so the lathe is easily moved. "BUT" the bad news is the lathe isn't bolted down . AND is very much head stock heavy AND not stable side to side AND you have a very narrow platform. Falling over is called a "face-plant" and runied many a lathe. Yes, the pedestal leg is secured by gravity.

The best thing, IMHO, is to break the lathe down removing the motor & , drive box assembly, remove the bed from the tray/table. If you have access to a cheap Harbor Freight engine hoist, that will work fine to hold it while you remove them. I once made a platform to hold mine up, LOL, can't remember why now. The lift will also work great to hold the lathe while you remove the legs and pan and then you can simply set it in a truck bed or I put mine in a covered cargo trailer to move it. You can also, without any concern but time, remove the headstock and then the parts are easily moved with a cheap Harbor Freight pnumatic tire dolly.

If you elect to try to move it assembled, I suggest you get three good, not Harbor Freight cheap, cargo tie-downs and use two to strap the bed down to the cart, not bending the tray, and the other over the drive box assembly thus also securing the pedestal leg. EDIT: And if at all possible, sling the lathe from the bed, rather than lift it. Then the top heavy isn't an issue.

ASAP, go to the Logan site Lathe.com run by Scott Logan, grandson of the company founder and just do some reading through the FAQ.  If you don't get a manual you can get one from  Logan, but drop me an IM and I can give you a couple of suggestions.  Not to detract from this really great forum, but Scott moderates a Logan groups.io forum that's another good source as Scott will weigh in on some questions.He also moderates a FaceBook group that am a member of but don't really follow.

Kerosene is your friend for cleaning, many options for rust removal Evaporust being the easiest, It can costly and container size/shape can be an issue.  if you want original paint, the color is in the Logan FAQ.


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## Shiseiji

P.S the hole in the tailstock by the locking handle is for, once upon a time, white lead to lubricate a non-rotating (dead center in modern terms) center.  Now high pressure grease is a common replacement. The thing that goes in the hole is what Logan called a quill. It is unobtanium. Look around for this. Not really necessary, but nice to have.


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## extropic

@Charlieman22

Below is the link to where to download "How to Run a Lathe" by South Bend.
It's over 100 years old but still relevant to a beginner on your lathe.
It will answer innumerable questions for you.









						SB How to Run a Lathe for Beginners - 1914 15th Edition
					

How to run a lathe, for beginners, by South Bend Lathe Works




					www.hobby-machinist.com


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## Jimsehr

Charlieman22 said:


> Ok - so Steve identified A, C, H, & G.
> Thanks Steve!
> Could still use some help with B, D, E, F, and I if anyone else wants to take a stab?!
> Feels like I am hosting the '70's game show "Liars Club"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 371618
> 
> 
> Looking back at the pictures, of the lathe tooling that is, I think I see a collet - and it seams to have some sort of tail on it.
> That's a mystery to me.
> I assumed these would be 5C collets.
> Perhaps it is - and that is a tool holder of some kind screwed on to it.
> 
> If so, my question is - what is that tail and how does it interact with the lathe?
> View attachment 371617


Part marked i looks like part that fits on back of spindle we’re the collet locates.
I did not see the piece where the collet enters the spindle. It is tapered and locks in spindle with taper then 5c collet fits inside it. the collet and stop in picture do not look like Logan parts. And there should be a spindle protecter that screws on spindle to protect thread. Look on eBay for a lever collet closer and you will see parts needed. 
Jim Sehr
I went to you tube and they have vids of Logan lathe lever collet closers. There are a few so you might look at more then one because they are not all the same.


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## Jimsehr

Shiseiji said:


> P.S the hole in the tailstock by the locking handle is for, once upon a time, white lead to lubricate a non-rotating (dead center in modern terms) center.  Now high pressure grease is a common replacement. The thing that goes in the hole is what Logan called a quill. It is unobtanium. Look around for this. Not really necessary, but nice to have.
> 
> View attachment 371638


I think the piece used to apply white lead is called a dauber. And is easy to make.
Jim Sehr
b looks like crosslide nut
h looks like lantern tool post base
e boring bar holder
g knurls


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## Charlieman22

Wrote this earlier - but appears I never hit post.
Apologies if I miss any specific responses.
Read everyones.
Thank you.

Extropic - good stuff as usual.


extropic said:


> E is a tool post for holding round shank tools, such as boring bars (and milling cutters).


Ah - excellent. 


extropic said:


> B sort of looks like a nut for the cross feed screw. Maybe that's a worn one. Maybe it's a new one.


Now looking at it - it does seam to have the shape of a nut for a screw.  I will get a closer look and post pics when back in front of it.


extropic said:


> The collet lookin thing has me scratching my head. It's not 5C. The back end looks like it could be a work stop accessory. It might be some sort of special tool. A good picture of the business end of the "collet" might shed some light.


Ok - glad its not only me.  I will see if there are any identifying marks or numbers on it - and get some detailed pics up and posted when I am down there - in case we realize there is some kind of holder that should be with it that needs to be found hiding in the garage...

I managed to figure out what I is - Extropic had previously suggested it might be part of the collet closer.
Sure enough - I found a video with that part being shown: 
	

		
			
		

		
	




Jim - agreed - its a duaber.  I've downloaded a picture and sent it to the son in-law in case he saw it somewhere.  On my list to find if its around.
Extropic - watched the video.  Man how times have changed - but lathes have not!  Good grounding for me.  Thanks.
Shiseiji - Plan is to disassemble.  I pulled off a one man move on a 4200Lb mill - by building a wide rolling base - that now serves as the means to move my mill.  It was a bit of alchemy - and I never felt unsafe - but took a great deal of planning and pre-work.
Let (best) 5 feet of a 100 mile move seen here - if you want a laugh:  




The Logan lathe's peg leg design is just ripe with ways for it to crumble.  My plan is to disassemble.
I don't have a hoist - so its going to load by hand. 
I'm a little unsure about the weight of the motor drive unit - but if I can remove that by hand - I should be good to break down from there.
What I can't load - I'll engage my son to help with.

Thanks to all that weighed in.
Great primer for me the day prior - and very helpful.
-CM


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## mattthemuppet2

if you get another drop deck trailer, take some 2x4 or 4x4 with you and cut them down to the width of the trailer floor, then bolt them sticking out sideways to the base of the dolly/ platform. That will stop it from tipping, though it's still worth taking the motor and tailstock off to lighten things up. Then carefully role it onto the trailer and you're good to go.

Looks like you found a good one though, congrats!


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## Charlieman22

Ha - well - you will never get those moments of your life back from that viewing.



mattthemuppet2 said:


> if you get another drop deck trailer



The drop bed wasn't available to rent. 
Would have been a great way to do it - and your outrigger concept seems solid.
I am committed to disassembly at this point.

Will hunt for collets
as well as the ever elusive dauber
Any other tooling that might be tucked away in those drawers as well.
I'll post if I get tangled mid way through the process.
Wish me luck!


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## extropic

I just finished watching Randy Richard's SEVEN part video series on tuning up his Logan collet closer. OMG!

Anyway, the one important part of the CC that I haven't seen in your pictures is the nose piece. That's the part that fits into the female taper of the spindle and provides the female taper to receive the 5C collets. look diligently for it. It's worth about $100.


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## Shiseiji

Jimsehr said:


> I think the piece used to apply white lead is called a dauber. And is easy to make.
> Jim Sehr
> b looks like crosslide nut
> h looks like lantern tool post base
> e boring bare holder
> g knurls


No argument,  colloquially it's a dauber.  I had a brain fart so looked at the manual. On page 8 Logan calls it a quill, and in the parts manual Logan calls it a knob. Go figure.


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## Shiseiji

extropic said:


> I just finished watching Randy Richard's SEVEN part video series on tuning up his Logan collet closer. OMG!
> 
> Anyway, the one important part of the CC that I haven't seen in your pictures is the nose piece. That's the part that fits into the female taper of the spindle and provides the female taper to receive the 5C collets. look diligently for it. It's worth about $100.


Sticker shock. One from Scott is $340. Also the nose guard though they can be easily made or a 3D printed one purchased. Price new: $233


Charlieman22 said:


> Wrote this earlier - but appears I never hit post.
> Apologies if I miss any specific responses.
> Read everyones.
> Thank you.
> 
> Extropic - good stuff as usual.
> 
> Ah - excellent.
> 
> Now looking at it - it does seam to have the shape of a nut for a screw.  I will get a closer look and post pics when back in front of it.
> 
> Ok - glad its not only me.  I will see if there are any identifying marks or numbers on it - and get some detailed pics up and posted when I am down there - in case we realize there is some kind of holder that should be with it that needs to be found hiding in the garage...
> 
> I managed to figure out what I is - Extropic had previously suggested it might be part of the collet closer.
> Sure enough - I found a video with that part being shown:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 371622
> 
> 
> Jim - agreed - its a duaber.  I've downloaded a picture and sent it to the son in-law in case he saw it somewhere.  On my list to find if its around.
> Extropic - watched the video.  Man how times have changed - but lathes have not!  Good grounding for me.  Thanks.
> Shiseiji - Plan is to disassemble.  I pulled off a one man move on a 4200Lb mill - by building a wide rolling base - that now serves as the means to move my mill.  It was a bit of alchemy - and I never felt unsafe - but took a great deal of planning and pre-work.
> Let (best) 5 feet of a 100 mile move seen here - if you want a laugh:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Logan lathe's peg leg design is just ripe with ways for it to crumble.  My plan is to disassemble.
> I don't have a hoist - so its going to load by hand.
> I'm a little unsure about the weight of the motor drive unit - but if I can remove that by hand - I should be good to break down from there.
> What I can't load - I'll engage my son to help with.
> 
> Thanks to all that weighed in.
> Great primer for me the day prior - and very helpful.
> -CM


Looking at the same trailer to move a Monarch 10EE 3,000 miles. If you have time, might be wise to borrow the wheels off the mill base and make wider as needed to move the Logan.


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## Charlieman22

extropic said:


> I just finished watching Randy Richard's SEVEN part video series on tuning up his Logan collet closer. OMG!
> 
> Anyway, the one important part of the CC that I haven't seen in your pictures is the nose piece. That's the part that fits into the female taper of the spindle and provides the female taper to receive the 5C collets. look diligently for it. It's worth about $100.


Wow - that's some patience!  I browsed them to get a sense of how it worked, and what his approach was.  
Have that nose cone on the list.  Maybe if I can find a store of collets, it is in that drawer.
The gentleman that owned this seems to have been very careful with things.
His son in-law says he really didn't operate much if at all for the past decade, and things started piling up in the garage.
_Editors note: That will be me one day - and if I get all the way to 91 - I'll be proud of it.

May post from the sight if I find any parts I'm un sure of._


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## Charlieman22

Shiseiji said:


> Looking at the same trailer to move a Monarch 10EE 3,000 miles. If you have time, might be wise to borrow the wheels off the mill base and make wider as needed to move the Logan.


For what its worth (and opportunity for gratuitously showing off my work...)

The Webb mill in the video was a legitimate 4300lbs of unreasonably top heavy iron.
That mill was 2 hours away - so the drive was significant.
To get it moved, I measured - best I could - the center line of the existing mill feet bolt holes by visiting.
But I had the seller re-measure later for me.
To ensure fit of the frame cross members, I slotted the holes.
Some pictures below of the cross members I built.
When transporting, I had it bolted to some 4x6's to help stabilize - and of course chained and strapped at 4 corners.

Couple things I learned worth sharing.
1.  I brought spax lag bolts with me - which require no pilot hole.  Impact wrench drove them straight in to  the 4x6 wood skids I noted.
2.  Since seller had a fork lift - but I didnt - I had them lift the machine so I could install the cross members I had fabricated.  I designed it to have some extension for those lag bolts of #1, and now use them for the machinery feet.  This adds some stability in my shop - but also allows me still to lower on to the wheels and roll.
3.  That drop bed trailer was in fact a lifesaver at unload.  I drove a good 150+ miles (including 3 back and forth to the car wash) and the mill was solid as a rock back there.  That said - I realized I had no recourse if I had gotten a flat.  In hindsight - I might have brought a bottle of fix a flat at minimum, and a spare wheel with pressurized tire would have been even smarter.

Here is a pic of the x members.  You can see the the extensions off the front that would be used to rest it on the 4x6 and bolt it down.
	

		
			
		

		
	




This was shot as I was bolting the x members on to the mill.
	

		
			
		

		
	




Though its a little hard to see - if you zoom in you can see how I oriented the 4x6 and bolted them on.  This allowed to to be super stable, and when I got back to my house - I used a jack and some blocks to slowly lower it down on to the wheels - so that I could role it in to my garage.
	

		
			
		

		
	




Off to see how I fair with the lathe.  
Slow and steady is my plan - and if I get hung up - I will have to consider a more elaborate solution like the one above.


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## Nogoingback

If you remove the motor first, the drive box should be something you can just lift off.  I took
my 10" apart and put it together with no problems.
You also might consider fabricating a stand for the lathe which locates the the pedestal leg
securely.

Here's mine:  the stand is made up of welded 3 x 4 and 3 x 5 rectangular tube tied together with 2" round
tubes.  It has 5 leveling feet.  The added bonus is that it raised the lathe up higher, which for me
is helpful for my back.   Sorry about the dark pictures.


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## extropic

Shiseiji said:


> Sticker shock. One from* Scott* is $340. Also the nose guard though they can be easily made or a 3D printed one purchased. Price new: $233
> 
> Looking at the same trailer to move a Monarch 10EE 3,000 miles. If you have time, might be wise to borrow the wheels off the mill base and make wider as needed to move the Logan.



LOL. Things always cost more than I think they should.

A bit rare too. I looked on eBay for the purpose of posting a representative picture but saw none.

Can you provide a link to Scott? I don't know that source.


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## Shiseiji

extropic said:


> LOL. Things always cost more than I think they should.
> 
> A bit rare too. I looked on eBay for the purpose of posting a representative picture but saw none.
> 
> Can you provide a link to Scott? I don't know tha





extropic said:


> LOL. Things always cost more than I think they should.
> 
> A bit rare too. I looked on eBay for the purpose of posting a representative picture but saw none.
> 
> Can you provide a link to Scott? I don't know that source.


Scott S. Logan, President      Tel +1 (815) 943-9500
Logan Actuator Co.              Fax +1 (815) 943-6755
550 Chippewa Rd                Email ssl@lathe.com
Harvard IL  60033-2337          Web  http://www.lathe.com
USA


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## Shiseiji

Nogoingback said:


> If you remove the motor first, the drive box should be something you can just lift off.  I took
> my 10" apart and put it together with no problems.
> You also might consider fabricating a stand for the lathe which locates the the pedestal leg
> securely.
> 
> Here's mine:  the stand is made up of welded 3 x 4 and 3 x 5 rectangular tube tied together with 2" round
> tubes.  It has 5 leveling feet.  The added bonus is that it raised the lathe up higher, which for me
> is helpful for my back.   Sorry about the dark pictures.
> 
> View attachment 371709
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 371710


The stand looks great!


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## wa5cab

We also have PDF scans of two or three editions of the SB How To Run A Lathe in Downloads.  As well as the similar Atlas MOLO (Manual Of Lathe Operation).  However, because the storage space adds significantly to the sites monthly bill, to actually open or download any files requires that you be a Donor (any level).


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## Nogoingback

Shiseiji said:


> The stand looks great!


Thanks!


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## Charlieman22

Well - she's home.
Tear down was pretty straight forward.
I rolled it to the back of the truck and put the tail gate down - and that way I was an easy lift for the bed and the motor drive assembly.
I decided not to tear down the motor drive from the head stock - It really wasn't that bad a lift and I was able to put it on its side in such a way that it was secure and not leaning on any hinged or geared components.

Collet closer - I rummaged around a bit and had some luck - but couldn't find a few parts.
Ill get them properly posted and we can take stock.
They all seem a little different on the videos I saw.
What I found: The spindle protector that threads on.
What I didn't find: The collets or the collet adapter.
Seems certain there was a set of collets somewhere - but no luck.
I also didnt see the supporting bracket or any additional parts that might be needed for the back side of the spindle (not sure what that area is called).

However, when I got home - I realized there was something screwed on to that back side - and I think it might be part of the unit.
Is this the "take up nut"?

Oh - and one other thing.  There was an old pair of "Robuck" coveralls - in perfect condition.
The guy gave those to me - and some raw stock!
There was also an Albrecht chuck.
All in all - I really can't complain - and have to say - the son-in-law was an awesome guy.
Helped me load and then grabbed a beer for us after the work was done - to, you know, cool off.

Thanks all - more to come.


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## Shiseiji

Yeah team! Sadly I don't know enough about the closer, other than the one I have isn't for 3AT, to know if that's for the closer or setting the bearing preset upon the 11". Hopefully someone will know. Good deal on the spindle thread protector.


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## Shiseiji

P.S. clean and lube the QCGB because the only way to lub it is to daub or spray up inside. I found some high pressure sticky spray I use on it and my change gears. Doesn't attract swarf and really quiets down the gear train.


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## Jimsehr

Charlieman22 said:


> Well - she's home.
> Tear down was pretty straight forward.
> I rolled it to the back of the truck and put the tail gate down - and that way I was an easy lift for the bed and the motor drive assembly.
> I decided not to tear down the motor drive from the head stock - It really wasn't that bad a lift and I was able to put it on its side in such a way that it was secure and not leaning on any hinged or geared components.
> 
> Collet closer - I rummaged around a bit and had some luck - but couldn't find a few parts.
> Ill get them properly posted and we can take stock.
> They all seem a little different on the videos I saw.
> What I found: The spindle protector that threads on.
> What I didn't find: The collets or the collet adapter.
> Seems certain there was a set of collets somewhere - but no luck.
> I also didnt see the supporting bracket or any additional parts that might be needed for the back side of the spindle (not sure what that area is called).
> 
> However, when I got home - I realized there was something screwed on to that back side - and I think it might be part of the unit.
> Is this the "take up nut"?
> 
> Oh - and one other thing.  There was an old pair of "Robuck" coveralls - in perfect condition.
> The guy gave those to me - and some raw stock!
> There was also an Albrecht chuck.
> All in all - I really can't complain - and have to say - the son-in-law was an awesome guy.
> Helped me load and then grabbed a beer for us after the work was done - to, you know, cool off.
> 
> Thanks all - more to come.
> View attachment 371741
> 
> View attachment 371742


If you go looking for the collet adapter be aware that the 900 series Logan’s had 2 different spindle tapers . You need to look at your serial number and compare to chart Scott Logan has posted on the web. Buying new is pricey. But if you keep looking on eBay you might find a deal.
Jim Sehr


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## 682bear

I have a Logan 5c adapter somewhere...

If we can determine whether it will fit your lathe, I may be convinced to part with it...

I'll see if I can find it Monday morning...

-Bear


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## Charlieman22

Shiseiji said:


> P.S. clean and lube the QCGB


Assuming that is not some form of gender designation - and rather refers to the gears on the cross slide mechanism?


Nogoingback said:


> You also might consider fabricating a stand for the lathe which locates the the pedestal leg
> securely.


Missed this earlier.  Thanks for posting.  Was thinking about welding up a bracket that created a 45 degree angle from the casted legs to support the motor.  Think I could do something simple but nice.  Like the idea of improving the peg as you've done.


Shiseiji said:


> Sticker shock. One from Scott is $340. Also the nose guard though they can be easily made or a 3D printed one purchased. Price new: $233


Well, gotta admit, that seems like a lot for a turned piece of steel - but that said - precision is critical for that part.
Still...


Jimsehr said:


> If you go looking for the collet adapter be aware that the 900 series Logan’s had 2 different spindle tapers . You need to look at your serial number and compare to chart Scott Logan has posted on the web. Buying new is pricey. But if you keep looking on eBay you might find a deal.
> Jim Sehr


Good head's up.  Tks.


682bear said:


> I have a Logan 5c adapter somewhere...
> 
> If we can determine whether it will fit your lathe, I may be convinced to part with it...
> 
> I'll see if I can find it Monday morning...
> 
> -Bear


Gracious.  What a great last post to read after the above discussion!
Thanks Bear.  Let me know what you dig up.
In the mean time, I'll look up my serial number and post some info on it.
Collet adapter would put me in business out of the gate - which would be terrific.

-CM


----------



## 682bear

I 'may' also have an extra follow rest if you need one... 

Among other things...

Let me see what I can find. If you need anything, just ask, I have a lot of 'stuff' that came with my old Logan...

-Bear


----------



## Charlieman22

Bear - 
Was suggested to me on prior page I hunt down a steady rest.
Follow rest would likely be even more useful.
Which is to say - yes - highly interested.
Thank you.

Curious - did you move to a collet chuck?

Plan currently is to do a deep clean, lube and assembly.
Will have a better sense of how the machine operates once I am up and running.


----------



## 682bear

This Logan was the first lathe I bought... quite a few years ago. It is terribly worn out... the ways are badly worn and ALL of the QCGB gears are worn to nubs... I started to attempt to rebuild it at one time, but eventually realized that it needs way too much to make a rebuild worthwhile.

I've considered parting it out... IDK yet... it's not in my way and not costing me any money to sit there, so... there it sits...

-Bear


----------



## 682bear

When I bought it, it came with a 3 jaw chuck, 4 jaw chuck, the collet adapter, the collet closer (in extremely bad shape), steady rest, 2 follow rests, face plate, and I don't remember what else. There is a couple of boxes of parts and 'stuff' with it.

This one is newer than yours, I think... it is mounted on a steel cabinet with an underdrive system in the cabinet, rather than having the legs.

-Bear


----------



## Charlieman22

682bear said:


> I've considered parting it out... IDK yet... it's not in my way and not costing me any money to sit there, so... there it sits..


Makes sense.



682bear said:


> This Logan was the first lathe I bought...


Well - I suppose we have that in common then.
Almost scared to ask what it leads to...
Thanks for the kind offer on rummaging through the parts box to help me complete mine.

Funny - when I was terrain down the lathe today in the sellers garage - he was simultaneously looking for parts and throwing out old stuff.
One thing that kept occurring was - he would find a box of some item (radiator hose for example) and it would have the old worn out one put back in to the box and put back on the shelf.  
Happened 2 or 3 times.
Got me thinking...

So I went back and looked at the parts/tools that came with my lathe.
Sure enough - one of the parts was in fact a nut for the cross feed screw - completely used up.
Owner must have replaced it - but kept the old one.
Then I noticed I also had a set of large bearings.  
Quick check confirmed they are spindle bearings.
Used.
I suspect the owner has replaced the spindle bearings at some point.
Luckily - it appears my QCGB gears are in nice shape - though I will have a closer inspection when I clean.


----------



## Charlieman22

Ok - spent the day cleaning and inspecting. 
I left the gears in - but used a pick and some spray to clean each tooth.
Scrubbed the cases inside and out.
Found a few things that will need repair/servicing.
The good news is - having cleaned each tooth - I did not find any scarred or missing teeth in the headstock.

Could use some insights/suggestions on the cross feed tho.
The compound feed - smallest one that can be swiveled - was frozen.
Weirdly - of one of the the three gib screws was run way in - very tight.
I loosened them and it moves - though a bit stiffly.
Also noticed it had been dropped previously and chipped.

Questions:
1.  Any thoughts on why someone would run one of the gib screws in to the point of seizing the compound slide in place?
2.  Some significant backlash in that slide. Perhaps related - but I don't get the tighten until you can't move it approach.  How is backlash adjusted on these?
3.  How can I disassemble the compound slide off the saddle? 

Pretty nasty chip off the compound was hiding under the tool holder.
	

		
			
		

		
	




Blind man with a stick put this paint on.  Would really like to address - but think its better to get up and running to figure out if anything else needs servicing prior to a full disassembly.


----------



## extropic

The PO may have used the gib screw as a lock (assuming the compound doesn't have a dedicated lock screw). No big deal.

The broken T-slot is common enough. Maybe from over tightening. Maybe from a crash. Repair is possible or maybe you can find a replacement.
Would not be the worst sin to run it like that.

Backlash isn't "adjustable" there. Due to nut wear an/or screw wear. If backlash is unacceptable, new parts are in order. Get the lathe running and contributors can walk you through making replacements.


----------



## Charlieman22

extropic said:


> The PO may have used the gib screw as a lock (assuming the compound doesn't have a dedicated lock screw). No big deal.
> 
> The broken T-slot is common enough. Maybe from over tightening. Maybe from a crash. Repair is possible or maybe you can find a replacement.
> Would not be the worst sin to run it like that.
> 
> Backlash isn't "adjustable" there. Due to nut wear an/or screw wear. If backlash is unacceptable, new parts are in order. Get the lathe running and contributors can walk you through making replacements.


Thanks Extropic.
Another brick in the wall...
- Makes sense it was "locked" by prior owner.  Clearly it was run in much further than the others, so not by accident.
- Not so worried about the chipped portion either.  It's a war out there - sometimes you take a bullet...  That said - Bear if you are reading...
- Ok - not adjustable.  Like the idea of making my own replacement nut to diminish backlash.  Will stay on track getting up and running first.

In the meantime, can anyone can advise on how I can remove the compound slide - so I can clean it's ways from the sticky ancient grease - would be appreciated.

An aside - I might still be most excited about the "Roebucks" coveralls that came with the mill!  Talk about well tooled.


----------



## extropic

Disclaimer: I don't know the Logan 920 specifically so my "how to" is based on general experience. Hopefully, a Logan expert will straighten us out.  
To remove the top slide, remove the gib screws and slide out the gib. wind the handwheel until the screw disengages from the nut.
Remove the fasteners that lock the compound pivot to the cross slide to remove the compound base.


----------



## Charlieman22

extropic said:


> Disclaimer: I don't know the Logan 920 specifically so my "how to" is based on general experience. Hopefully, a Logan expert will straighten us out.
> To remove the top slide, remove the gib screws and slide out the gib. wind the handwheel until the screw disengages from the nut.
> Remove the fasteners that lock the compound pivot to the cross slide to remove the compound base.


Having read that - suspect you probably have it right from similar experience. Probably enough of a head start, at minimum, that if there are any other tricky screws holding me back - I will find them relatively easily.  Thanks for quick response.


----------



## Charlieman22

BTW - my serial number is 54764.
That appears to make it a 1951 - if I read the Logan chart correctly (which I am not absolutely certain I did).
I'll have that now as reference here in my thread.


----------



## 682bear

Ok, here goes...

To remove the compound rest on mine (yours may be the same), look on the side of the carriage... there should be a set screw on each side...




Back those set screws out all the way and the compound should lift out of the hole... there is a dovetail on the bottom of the compound that the set screws seat into, holding it in.

I have the compound off mine... it is in good condition, just filthy... I should have the gib, screw, nut, and handwheel floating around here somewhere.




It looks pretty rough, but is just nasty... I'll drop it in the parts cleaner tank and see how clean I can get it.

The follow rest...




It should fit an 11 inch Logan...it is in good condition, but also needs cleaning.

The collet adapter...




The big end of the taper measures 1.625, the small end measures 1.495, and the taper is 1.940 long. It is stamped '3005023' and 'Sutton SH' on the end. A 5c collet fits the ID.

I'm not sure how to determine whether it is the correct adapter for your lathe... maybe the dimensions will help... if you need any more information, I'll do what I can to help with it.

The model number of my Logan is a 1957T... serial number 88056 if that helps...

-Bear


----------



## Shiseiji

682bear said:


> Ok, here goes...
> 
> To remove the compound rest on mine (yours may be the same), look on the side of the carriage... there should be a set screw on each side...
> 
> View attachment 371872
> 
> 
> Back those set screws out all the way and the compound should lift out of the hole... there is a dovetail on the bottom of the compound that the set screws seat into, holding it in.
> 
> I have the compound off mine... it is in good condition, just filthy... I should have the gib, screw, nut, and handwheel floating around here somewhere.
> 
> View attachment 371873
> 
> 
> It looks pretty rough, but is just nasty... I'll drop it in the parts cleaner tank and see how clean I can get it.
> 
> The follow rest...
> 
> View attachment 371874
> 
> 
> It should fit an 11 inch Logan...it is in good condition, but also needs cleaning.
> 
> The collet adapter...
> 
> View attachment 371875
> 
> 
> The big end of the taper measures 1.625, the small end measures 1.495, and the taper is 1.940 long. It is stamped '3005023' and 'Sutton SH' on the end. A 5c collet fits the ID.
> 
> I'm not sure how to determine whether it is the correct adapter for your lathe... maybe the dimensions will help... if you need any more information, I'll do what I can to help with it.
> 
> The model number of my Logan is a 1957T... serial number 88056 if that helps...
> 
> -Bear


Unlike the 10", all 11" have a pintle mount compound.


----------



## Shiseiji

extropic said:


> The PO may have used the gib screw as a lock (assuming the compound doesn't have a dedicated lock screw). No big deal.
> 
> The broken T-slot is common enough. Maybe from over tightening. Maybe from a crash. Repair is possible or maybe you can find a replacement.
> Would not be the worst sin to run it like that.
> 
> Backlash isn't "adjustable" there. Due to nut wear an/or screw wear. If backlash is unacceptable, new parts are in order. Get the lathe running and contributors can walk you through making replacements.


10 & 11" Logans do not have dedicated compound or cross slide lock screws. See manual extract below. 

Often, cross slide and compound,  backlash is not the nut, but rather the handle/bushing design that makes it very difficult to adjust the gap/lash  necessary so the dial will spin and have low back lash. You can see that in the compound screw parts breakdown, if tightened too tight the inside nut will lock the dial and screw to the bushing and not spin. . There are several methods for correcting this, the simplest is to counter bore the bushing for thrust bearings and zero out the cross slide screw to the cross slide lash, then the dial lash is independent. 

Other options are usually used with the primary intent of mounting a larger dial further out on the cross slide saddle so you don't limit the cross slide travel. That also requires doing "something" to male the cross slide screw longer. Various methods of that are covered here, on the Practical Machinist, and on the Logan group. Recently on Winky's Workshop on YouTube as well as Mr. Pete covered making larger dials and accepting the limits on the cross slide travel. A commercial option, Stelling,  was once available and tend to be pricy when they come up on eBay. Another option is Hardinge dials that share the 7/16" shaft size, used in conjunction with thrust bushing option mentioned above. he other advantage for many is it permits making a 200 division direct reading dial. The Hardinge dial uses a floating bushing and locking knurled ring like is found on most mills and can be found with 200 divisions.  I've played with adapting a mill dial with 200 divisions and a friction lock, but not enough to report out or post anything. 

An unusual but interesting dial design is in The Model Engineers Workshop Manual by George H. Thomas and see chapter 15 Cross slide Micrometer Dials. His design has a collar that rides under the fixed ring so the lock is on the fixed ring and thus doesn't interfere with the markings and stays in one place. The drawings, at least to me, take some real study to understand!


----------



## Shiseiji

Ref. Broken compound tee slot. I've picked these up over the years as examples of what others have done (and re-done).


----------



## Charlieman22

682bear said:


> The big end of the taper measures 1.625, the small end measures 1.495, and the taper is 1.940 long. It is stamped '3005023' and 'Sutton SH' on the end. A 5c collet fits the ID.
> 
> I'm not sure how to determine whether it is the correct adapter for your lathe... maybe the dimensions will help... if you need any more information, I'll do what I can to help with it.
> 
> The model number of my Logan is a 1957T... serial number 88056 if that helps...


Bear -  I'll do some research to see if we can determine if my taper is the same.  That looks like the part!  
You're a good man for digging it out.  Thank you.



682bear said:


> It should fit an 11 inch Logan...it is in good condition, but also needs cleaning.


Follow rest looks good to me.  Shiseiji/ others - can you help us identify if it would fit my machine?

Shiseiji - good stuff. I had gotten my hands on the manual - but not noticed there was also a parts catalog. I've located that now - very helpful.

My pesky paying job will require a bit of focus this morning - then I will turn my attention to cleaning and more dissasembly.  I'll grab some pics of my compound slide after I take it apart and give it a cleaning.


----------



## Shiseiji

Charlieman22 said:


> Bear -  I'll do some research to see if we can determine if my taper is the same.  That looks like the part!
> You're a good man for digging it out.  Thank you.
> 
> 
> Follow rest looks good to me.  Shiseiji/ others - can you help us identify if it would fit my machine?
> 
> Shiseiji - good stuff. I had gotten my hands on the manual - but not noticed there was also a parts catalog. I've located that now - very helpful.
> 
> My pesky paying job will require a bit of focus this morning - then I will turn my attention to cleaning and more dissasembly.  I'll grab some pics of my compound slide after I take it apart and give it a cleaning.


LOL, you mean you have a real life?

Ron


----------



## Shiseiji

Shiseiji said:


> LOL, you mean you have a real life?
> 
> Ron


Follower Rest for 10" & 11" Lathes Logan notes two previous part numbers that may account for the slots vs, holes.


----------



## Charlieman22

Day got away from me - but not before I was able to put in a few hours of cleaning.
Did not manage to get to the cross slides - as I had already commenced work on the legs and tray.

Issue: blind man with a stick painting combined with chipping and pealing.  
Just cant bring myself to assembling the machine like this.

After a bit of experimentation - found the pressure washer was most effective for the flaking paint.
Off came the light gray.
Then the brushed on baby green.
Until the original epoxy hardened Logan gray showed.

Trigger warning - one suspects the next couple sentences may create some... disagreements.
I'm sure the Logan gray was beautiful when new - but there is a reason this thing got re-painted.
Twice.
The underlying paint - where it exists - is not very interesting.

After stripping back to the original paint - I'm not sure I am really any further along - and arguably further set back.
I had not really been committed to a repaint - but it feels like I am getting sucked in.

I am now pondering 2 things.
1.  Sand blasting the legs and tray
2.  Using Enamel automotive paint OR going with Rustoleum Hammered finish - because talking about sand blasting wasn't enough.

Just to throw a bit more red meat to the crowd - my hesitation on the Rustoleum is... I'm considering painting it a baby blue and that color is not available.
So - to sand blast or not, and do I go hammer finish silver or gray, or a baby blue enamel.




Mid pressure wash.


----------



## extropic

I'm not one who really cares what color one chooses to live with. Different strokes . . .

However, I will throw out an idea for your consideration. Find a local powder coater who also does the surface prep. Take your pressure washed bits to him, wham, bam, done. Nlot the lowes $$ aproach but ver durable, pretty and WIDE choice of colors.

Regarding paint, I read about quite a few people using tractor/engine paints from Tractor Supply and the like. I don't think there's a TS near by your home, but I haven't looked. Rustoleum brand has been mentioned. The color choice is probably limited but it's supposed to be tough paint.


----------



## Charlieman22

extropic said:


> I'm not one who really cares what color one chooses to live with. Different strokes . . .


I get it - and you are in good company on that one.
The appeal of the hammer finish is a few fold:
 - I can put it on with a brush
 - I can touch it up easily if (when) it chips
 - It hides a lot of underlying ills without much prep

 ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ What can I say - I kinda imagined a classic Vespa colored lathe in the garage.
That said - I may need to just get over it and use what rustoleum offers.
There is a gray and a silver - and one of them is a likely candidate.
Perhaps I will tape off and do a couple test patches tomorrow to see what I think.

Powder coating would be gold standard for toughness - if a bit expensive.
No touch up of course - but probably none needed!
Thanks for throwing out a few bones.  
Good to have some options to ponder for my morning.

I've also read others talk about the tractor paint.
Looks like I can get it online.
Would likely still require a bit more prep work than hammer finish - but with nice tough results.

BTW - Bear - if you are reading this - I'll get to my cross slides tomorrow and send you a message.
May be in your neck of the woods on Monday next week.


----------



## extropic

Charlieman22 said:


> Powder coating would be gold standard for toughness - if a bit expensive.
> No touch up of course - but probably none needed!
> Thanks for throwing out a few bones.
> Good to have some options to ponder for my morning.



There will be considerable surface prep effort for DIY. My thinking was to minimize your labor input to the non-educational experience. I suspect you already know how to paint.
Find a powder coater who does surface prep in-house and Bob's your Uncle. Off to the next challenge. I could be way off on my estimation of the cost of the job. It would be interesting to get a real price.

Speaking of the cost of services . . . I stopped at a place to see what it would cost to service the AC on my truck. Starts at $320, plus parts/refridgerent and plus fixing anything they find. No openings for an appointment until August. Ain't it grand?


----------



## Charlieman22

extropic said:


> Speaking of the cost of services . . . I stopped at a place to see what it would cost to service the AC on my truck. Starts at $320, plus parts/refridgerent and plus fixing anything they find. No openings for an appointment until August. Ain't it grand?


Something tells me you looked at the guy, looked at your truck, walked over and rolled down the window.
Thanks anyway! Its all fixed!

Would like to get on with some actual machining - of course.
But having put in all this time cleaning - I want to get some form of upgrade to the finish.
Then I can go to school on using it.


----------



## 682bear

Charlieman22 said:


> I get it - and you are in good company on that one.
> The appeal of the hammer finish is a few fold:
> - I can put it on with a brush
> - I can touch it up easily if (when) it chips
> - It hides a lot of underlying ills without much prep
> 
> ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ What can I say - I kinda imagined a classic Vespa colored lathe in the garage.
> That said - I may need to just get over it and use what rustoleum offers.
> There is a gray and a silver - and one of them is a likely candidate.
> Perhaps I will tape off and do a couple test patches tomorrow to see what I think.
> 
> Powder coating would be gold standard for toughness - if a bit expensive.
> No touch up of course - but probably none needed!
> Thanks for throwing out a few bones.
> Good to have some options to ponder for my morning.
> 
> I've also read others talk about the tractor paint.
> Looks like I can get it online.
> Would likely still require a bit more prep work than hammer finish - but with nice tough results.
> 
> BTW - Bear - if you are reading this - I'll get to my cross slides tomorrow and send you a message.
> May be in your neck of the woods on Monday next week.



A word of warning about the Rustoleum 'Smoke Gray'... it does not look like the online swatch... it is much lighter.

I used it on my first Hendey lathe refurbish...




I've grown to like it, but it isn't what I originally wanted...

You are coming to Georgia? What part? I'm about 45 miles west of Atlanta...

-Bear


----------



## Charlieman22

Bear - that machine is a wow.  Very nice.  Shop looks terrific as well.
Nice touch on the two tone handles as well.
I'll shoot you a message directly on the parts/Atl.


----------



## Charlieman22

Managed to get some work done - and made a bit deeper dive.
Title of this thread should probably change to Logan 920 Resto Project....
We are there.

I have a connection through my Vespa world with a media blaster.
I plan to bring some parts over to discuss.
These guys are aviation guys - and they are powder coat specialists as well.
So perhaps we will learn something on that front.

Looking for a bit of advice/feedback on below.
Couldn't remove the gib - and thus the slide itself.
All three grub screws are taken out from the side - but the gib doesn't want to slide out.
Any advice on how to remove without damaging?



Missing one of these little chevron shaped sweeps.  Perhaps Bear has one in his collection of bits... 



Once a belt is pined like this - do I have to destroy the pin to remove?  is it replaceable?  How do I open up this belt or do I leave it alone?  Also - looks like its seen a weld repair.  Weld is a reasonable quality - so I plan to leave alone.


----------



## extropic

There is a pin that keeps the gib from sliding. See the manual parts exploded view.

My original advice was defective regarding sliding the gib out.

What prevents you from turning the handwheel until the leadscrew is disengaged from the nut?

Grind the head off one side of the pin to remove it. You can us a cotter pin or make a trick piece once you get your lathe running.
Many folks replace those flat belts with an automotive serpentine belt. quieter, grippier and long wearing. You'll have to remove the spindle to accomplish the repacement. Or not.


----------



## 682bear

The handwheel can't be turned to disengage the nut because the nut will hit the inside of the casting first... the only way to disassemble the compound is to remove the handwheel, then remove the rotating half of the dial... then a pin spanner is needed to unscrew the fixed half of the dial from the upper casting. After it is unscrewed, the lead screw can be unscrewed from the nut. At that point, the nut can be tapped into the cavity in the casting... then just slide the 2 halves apart...

Simple, huh?

The pin in the flat belt should just slide out to one side, seperating the belt. Sometimes they are fairly tight...

I don't know if my lathe had those way wipers... I'll look and see.

-Bear


----------



## Charlieman22

Alright.
Good stuff from both of you.
Thanks.



extropic said:


> There is a pin that keeps the gib from sliding. See the manual parts exploded view.



I had looked at the diagram, but was convinced my version didnt have the pin on the side that interferes with the gib.
But if you look - really (really) closely - you can see that it is there acting like some sort of chameleon with the rust and chipped paint.
(See below).



682bear said:


> The handwheel can't be turned to disengage the nut because the nut will hit the inside of the casting first... the only way to disassemble the compound is to remove the handwheel, then remove the rotating half of the dial... then a pin spanner is needed to unscrew the fixed half of the dial from the upper casting. After it is unscrewed, the lead screw can be unscrewed from the nut. At that point, the nut can be tapped into the cavity in the casting... then just slide the 2 halves apart...


Yeah - simple - like calculous.  
Ok - success - with only non-stitches required cut on palm of hand.
I'll call that a win.

Disassembly showed what my issue was.
The front gib screw had been run in all the way - while the gib was not supported by the ways.
Bent the gib.

If anyone has good method for gib straitening... 
	

		
			
		

		
	




Belt came right apart.  It had looked like the pin was peened at both ends - but on closer inspection - it was just... rust.
Thanks!

(what did we do before the internet?)


----------



## Charlieman22

Quick update & tonights question(s).

Extropic - I asked the powder coater - just for our own edification.
He laughed.
"People bring me engine blocks all the time and ask me to powder coat.  Can I do it?  Sure, but it will take 8 hours to get it up to temperature in my oven - during which there is no room for other stuff.  I just say no."  So there we have it.

That said - these guys do good work - I have had them do aluminum before and even there they have been careful.
He gave me what I thought was a great price - $125 to media blast the legs, bed, cover, motor holding assembly, tail stock, table tray and peg.
Basically everything - except gear box, head stock, and cross slide.
They know about machined surfaces and prep by using cardboard taped on.
Should save me about 3 days of endless stripping.
Sold.

Tonight's question(s)
1.  Can anyone advise how I get the screw out of the cross slide.  See pic
2.  Do acid dip baths - like for automotive blocks - destroy brass?  Yes - that is a hail-marry-can-I-have-my-gearbox-dipped-without-taking-it-appart.  I pretty well know the answer - but thought I would fire it out in there in hopes of either:  A. miracle, or B. a better idea.


----------



## extropic

Charlieman22 said:


> Quick update & tonights question(s).
> 
> Extropic - I asked the powder coater - just for our own edification.
> He laughed.
> "People bring me engine blocks all the time and ask me to powder coat.  Can I do it?  Sure, but it will take 8 hours to get it up to temperature in my oven - during which there is no room for other stuff.  I just say no."  So there we have it.
> 
> That said - these guys do good work - I have had them do aluminum before and even there they have been careful.
> He gave me what I thought was a great price - $125 to media blast the legs, bed, cover, motor holding assembly, tail stock, table tray and peg.
> Basically everything - except gear box, head stock, and cross slide.
> They know about machined surfaces and prep by using cardboard taped on.
> Should save me about 3 days of endless stripping.
> Sold.
> 
> Tonight's question(s)
> 1.  Can anyone advise how I get the screw out of the cross slide.  See pic
> 2.  Do acid dip baths - like for automotive blocks - destroy brass?  Yes - that is a hail-marry-can-I-have-my-gearbox-dipped-without-taking-it-appart.  I pretty well know the answer - but thought I would fire it out in there in hopes of either:  A. miracle, or B. a better idea.



Good news about the powder coating. I much prefer to make suggestions that turnout to be usefull, even implemented, rather than unconsidered and/or defective. Excellent price too.

How to remove the cross slide screw? Same disclaimer, so my answer is "one part at a time". LOL
Start with that setscrew in the graduated dial, and so on.

Acid dip? Not if you want a servicable QCGB in the end.
Use paint stripper as required on the painted surfaces (heed all manufcturers direction). Followed by a pressure wash. then soak/scrub in a bucket of diesel fuel (wear chemical gloves) to clean the innerds.
I suspect that, if I had it in my hand, I would recommend complete dissassembly to ensure that all bearing surfaces get throughly cleaned.


----------



## extropic

You asked recently how to straighten the bent gib and I haven't seen any replies. From the picture, showing a gradual bend, I'm assuming the gib is mallable enough to endure straightening without fracturing. If that seemed correct in person, I would do the following.
On a granite or cast iron surface plate, sandwitch some of the straight portion of the gib between a 1-2-3 block (on the surface plate) and a piece of CRS (on top). Clamp securely to the surface plate. Leave enough of the straight portion extending beyond the 1-2-3 block to allow another 1-2-3 block to be used as a moveable fulcrum. Using a dial indicatior on a surface gage, survey the exposed gib to quantify the magnitide and start of the bend. Place the fulcrum to support the straight portion. with the indicator displaying deflection, use a screw clamp (not a hammer or wrench) to straighten the bend. Don't try to get it 100% the first time. Notice the magnitude of spring back when you remove the straightening clamp. Straighten .XXX" and survey the part again to see the progress. Move the location of the fulcrum as required to keep the straight portion supported.

On the other hand, If you get a replacment compound from Bear . . .


----------



## Charlieman22

extropic said:


> Good news about the powder coating. I much prefer to make suggestions that turnout to be usefull, even implemented, rather than unconsidered and/or defective. Excellent price too.


To clarify - the powder coater did not want to powder coat - due to the mass of the objects.  Too long to cook in his oven.
However - the suggestion turned out to be a good one in its own way.
He gave me a fantastic price on sandblast for all the components - there is a lot of detail - and the $125 price tag was days of labor saved.  So in the end, I will paint - but the suggestion did turn out to deliver good opportunity.



extropic said:


> How to remove the cross slide screw? Same disclaimer, so my answer is "one part at a time". LOL
> Start with that setscrew in the graduated dial, and so on.


A set screw makes more sense - but it looked like a pin - thus my question.  
I'll double check this morning.

Anyone else have to wrestle one of these apart that can add some advice?


----------



## Charlieman22

Media blasters made quick work of it.
I know some are not fans of this approach - and there is some basis for that.
Media blasters are hardly renown for their pin point accuracy...
That said - this mill has seen some miles - and a lot of coats of paint - and so I took the chance.

Have to say - really pleased with the outcome.
On the bed - they appear to have been very careful as per my request.
You can see from the photos that they didnt even come close to the bottom fo the ways.

On some of the hand held pieces - they were a little less surgical - but I had taped off and plugged the holes - and the outcome seems quite good.
If anyone is interested, the good bad and ugly are below.

While they were at it - the aluminum parts were chemically stripped.
There is some method to my madness (or vice versa).
I am planning on polishing out the aluminum to create a kind of classic look.
I did a super quick test pass to see what I will be dealing with.
It is going to take some work - but I think the end results will be nice.

A few before pictures - after pressure washing, but before media blast:





And some of the after:  So much nicer!



Clean!


She's got legs: as if they just left the foundry 
	

		
			
		

		
	




The worst spot they goofed was a tiny overstay on the bottom of the tail stock.  you can see it on the right.
The wear from age and use is frankly worse...



I took the chance they could do the lamp without destroying... this came out great - it was a rusty, triple paint coated mess.
	

		
			
		

		
	




Quick practice run on the cover - I'm going to have to hit it with a sander to take out some of those deeper scratches - but you get the idea of where I am going with this.  Note - prior owner hinged for the collet closer.  little rough.  Bear... how is your cover stock?
	

		
			
		

		
	




The whole kit ready for paint


----------



## 682bear

Charlieman22 said:


> Media blasters made quick work of it.
> I know some are not fans of this approach - and there is some basis for that.
> Media blasters are hardly renown for their pin point accuracy...
> That said - this mill has seen some miles - and a lot of coats of paint - and so I took the chance.
> 
> Have to say - really pleased with the outcome.
> On the bed - they appear to have been very careful as per my request.
> You can see from the photos that they didnt even come close to the bottom fo the ways.
> 
> On some of the hand held pieces - they were a little less surgical - but I had taped off and plugged the holes - and the outcome seems quite good.
> If anyone is interested, the good bad and ugly are below.
> 
> While they were at it - the aluminum parts were chemically stripped.
> There is some method to my madness (or vice versa).
> I am planning on polishing out the aluminum to create a kind of classic look.
> I did a super quick test pass to see what I will be dealing with.
> It is going to take some work - but I think the end results will be nice.
> 
> A few before pictures - after pressure washing, but before media blast:
> View attachment 372278
> View attachment 372279
> View attachment 372280
> 
> 
> And some of the after:  So much nicer!
> 
> View attachment 372291
> 
> Clean!
> View attachment 372294
> 
> She's got legs: as if they just left the foundry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 372292
> 
> 
> The worst spot they goofed was a tiny overstay on the bottom of the tail stock.  you can see it on the right.
> The wear from age and use is frankly worse...
> View attachment 372293
> 
> 
> I took the chance they could do the lamp without destroying... this came out great - it was a rusty, triple paint coated mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 372287
> 
> 
> Quick practice run on the cover - I'm going to have to hit it with a sander to take out some of those deeper scratches - but you get the idea of where I am going with this.  Note - prior owner hinged for the collet closer.  little rough.  Bear... how is your cover stock?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 372288
> 
> 
> The whole kit ready for paint
> View attachment 372283



I'll have to look at my cover... I don't remember it looking like yours... mine had the underdrive cabinet, so the cover may be different.

I still need to look at the way wipers on mine... 70 hr work weeks don't leave a lot of time to think about other things.

I'll try to remember to check in the morning when I get home.

-Bear


----------



## Charlieman22

Ha - Thanks Bear,
Nothing like coming off work to rummage through your old parts - which are in that box - underneath the other box - on the shelf - you have to step over the stuff to reach.

Actually - judging from your picture - seems your work space may be a bit better off.
-CM


----------



## Shiseiji

Charlieman22 said:


> To clarify - the powder coater did not want to powder coat - due to the mass of the objects. Too long to cook in his oven.
> However - the suggestion turned out to be a good one in its own way.
> He gave me a fantastic price on sandblast for all the components - there is a lot of detail - and the $125 price tag was days of labor saved. So in the end, I will paint - but the suggestion did turn out to deliver good opportunity.
> 
> 
> A set screw makes more sense - but it looked like a pin - thus my question.
> I'll double check this morning.
> 
> Anyone else have to wrestle one of these apart that can add some advice?


You have to remove the crossslide bushing with a pin wrench or reasonable facsimile there of. . There is a flange on the cross slide screw that gets pulled to the back side/inside if the bushing when you use the nut that's next to the micrometer dial to take up the back lash. But you have to leave it loose enough the dial can spin. That's where a lot of,  if not most of,  the back lash you asked about earlier is.  Look at the parts diagram to see the flange on the cross slide screw.


----------



## 682bear

There aren't any way wipers on my Logan... I did find the cover, but didn't have my phone with me, so I'll get some pics tomorrow and compare it with yours...

-Bear


----------



## Charlieman22

Shiseiji said:


> You have to remove the crossslide bushing with a pin wrench or reasonable facsimile there of. . There is a flange on the cross slide screw that gets pulled to the back side/inside if the bushing when you use the nut that's next to the micrometer dial to take up the back lash. But you have to leave it loose enough the dial can spin. That's where a lot of,  if not most of,  the back lash you asked about earlier is.  Look at the parts diagram to see the flange on the cross slide screw.


Good insight.  So the back lash can actually be adjusted by turning that flange screw - but it is a fine line between too tight and too much back lash - If I read correctly.

As for the pin - I will look a second time - but it looks like a roll pin in a blind hole.  Not sure how those are removed.  Off to the internet if that is the case.


----------



## wa5cab

Apparent backlash in the cross feed of most at least older lathes is actually the sum of two things.  End float in the cross feed screw, and actual backlash in or between the threads on the  cross feed screw and in the cross feed nut.  End float on most machines is adjustable and can usually be reduced to almost zero.  Actual backlash between the male and female threads is not in general adjustable and in the general case can only be reduced by replacement of the screw and nut.

However, the effect of backlash can generally be eliminated by technique.  Always approach a setting for turning an OD or facing by turning the crank CW.  If you overshoot the desired setting, back up more than the known backlash and try it again.  For turning an ID, approach the desired setting by turning the crank CCW.


----------



## Charlieman22

wa5cab said:


> Apparent backlash in the cross feed of most at least older lathes is actually the sum of two things. End float in the cross feed screw, and actual backlash in or between the threads on the cross feed screw and in the cross feed nut. End float on most machines is adjustable and can usually be reduced to almost zero. Actual backlash between the male and female threads is not in general adjustable and in the general case can only be reduced by replacement of the screw and nut.
> 
> However, the effect of backlash can generally be eliminated by technique. Always approach a setting for turning an OD or facing by turning the crank CW. If you overshoot the desired setting, back up more than the known backlash and try it again. For turning an ID, approach the desired setting by turning the crank CCW.


Got it.  Good explanation of the variables.  Thanks!


----------



## wa5cab

I should add, since someone may mention them, that there are several ways to build a nut and screw that have zero or near-zero backlash.  However, after months or years of use, the cross feed screw will be more worn in the region where you do the most work and in areas where you do little or no work, there will be little or no wear.  So if you adjust the nut for near zero backlash in the well-worn area, it will jam or freeze up if you try to move the cross slide into the area where you never work.  So you are better off learning how to use the lathe in such a way that back lash doesn't matter.


----------



## Shiseiji

Don't know what happened. I posted that I was wrong, the 900 has a roll pin through the idle gear. In retrospect I assume you split the crossslide from the apron. It was several years ago when I disassembled the one I have, but I don't recall destroying anything in the process. I had included a snapshot of the relevant part of the crossslide, but I doubt you really need it. It must have been apart once before to change the crossslide nut.


----------



## Shiseiji

Charlieman22 said:


> To clarify - the powder coater did not want to powder coat - due to the mass of the objects.  Too long to cook in his oven.
> However - the suggestion turned out to be a good one in its own way.
> He gave me a fantastic price on sandblast for all the components - there is a lot of detail - and the $125 price tag was days of labor saved.  So in the end, I will paint - but the suggestion did turn out to deliver good opportunity.
> 
> 
> A set screw makes more sense - but it looked like a pin - thus my question.
> I'll double check this morning.
> 
> Anyone else have to wrestle one of these apart that can add some advice?


(I missed hitting [Post]) My bad, it is a pin. I have a 900 cross slide, purchased for the tee slot cross slide, then forgot it is different than the 800. You have to remove the cross slide from the apron, then you can drive out the pin. But as Robert stated,  and I glossed over only because you thought the nut had been replaced, the backlash issue is the same, only up against the cross feed idler gear P/N LA-796 and the cross feed bracket P/N LA-797 *as well as* the cross slide nut LA-1062/cross feed screw P/N LA-798. The only way to reduce the idler gear/bracket backlash is to use counter bore for thrust bearings  and a nut and thin locknut for adjustment or make a Stelling type dial. Though the thought just hit me, I wonder if Belleview washers (the thin wavy washers) have been tried. Hum . . .


View attachment 372598


Ron


----------



## Charlieman22

Ron - thank you.
Good stuff all round.
Suspect as I start working closely with the parts - I will get a deeper understanding - all this will make a bit more sense - but I get the gist.
Belleview washer - savvy idea.  Might steel that.
(BTW - your image link isn't working for me)

I had a quick run to Georgia this weekend - and while I was there - stopped in on Bear for a few parts.
Looks to me like the collet holder is the right taper - good news.
At airport this morning - TSA had a few questions...

"Ma'am - They're lathe parts."
"It's a thing that spins"
"A guy named Bear sold them to me"
"I'm pretty sure they are solid cast steel"
"No - they don't explode.  They just spin"


Upon return:
Put a coat of primer and paint on the legs.
Dissatisfied with outcome - color is doing nothing for me.
Frankly - prefer the flat primer look over the "gray" - which looks silver to me.
Back to drawing board on that solution.
Bear - check your messages...

Blk primer on right - gray paint on left...


----------



## 682bear

Charlieman22 said:


> At airport this morning - TSA had a few questions...
> 
> "Ma'am - They're lathe parts."
> "It's a thing that spins"
> "A guy named Bear sold them to me"
> "I'm pretty sure they are solid cast steel"
> "No - they don't explode.  They just spin"




That's funny!

It was nice to meet ya'll... come again sometime. Maybe I'll have more time to sit and talk about machines next time!

-Bear


----------



## Charlieman22

In deep on figuring out viable paint - by which I mean - running in circles.

Stripping down machine has been a great education so far.
Found oil holes I wouldn't have known existed.
Also found at least one bushing in the QCGB that is worn out.
One end of the cone gear shaft.
I'm sure others will be found.

Anything I should watch out for in trying to replace?
No proper press - so plan on using a socket and a c clamp or the drill press to try and press it out.
So worn - no way to tell it's original specs.

Thanks
-CM


----------



## 682bear

I have removed those bushings before by using a piece of aluminum just a fuzz smaller than the bushing as a drift and just tapping them out with a hammer. To reinstall the new bushing, a bolt, nut, and 2 washers will squeeze them in easily enough.

Those are oilite bushings... you can order them from McMaster-Carr... not very expensive, IIRC...

When you get the old one out, just measure the ID of the hole, the shaft diameter, and the length of the old bushing.

If the bushing is worn badly, the shaft may be worn, also, so be sure and check that.

-Bear


----------



## Charlieman22

Thanks Bear.
Good prescription all the way around.
I'd just as soon turn the shaft to fit a slightly smaller ID bushing - but of course, I'd need a lathe to do that...

Couple good videos online showing the disassembly process.
Trying to move forward - but sometimes you just got take step back first.

This would be one of those times...


----------



## Shiseiji

Charlieman22 said:


> In deep on figuring out viable paint - by which I mean - running in circles.
> 
> Stripping down machine has been a great education so far.
> Found oil holes I wouldn't have known existed.
> Also found at least one bushing in the QCGB that is worn out.
> One end of the cone gear shaft.
> I'm sure others will be found.
> 
> Anything I should watch out for in trying to replace?
> No proper press - so plan on using a socket and a c clamp or the drill press to try and press it out.
> So worn - no way to tell it's original specs.
> 
> Thanks
> -CM


This is the tray I painted with the Benjamin-Moore High Gloss Metal & Wood Enamel, Oil Base (Alkyd), Deep base C-133 3B, Color ID. 2119-30, Color Name, Baby Seal Black, Color Book 133 that Scott provides in the FAQ  as one of the original colors. I put it next to my aged orginial color and and over pained 820 for some comparison. 

Ron


----------



## Charlieman22

Thanks Ron.
Appreciate you taking the time to dig up that info.
Had read about that color in the FAQ.
Now I have the formula as well.

Paint has turned out to be deeper dive than expected for me.
Combination of COVID shortages of every off the shelf color I like/ discovery that LA county no longer allows sell of oil based paints/ and a good dose of color choice flip flopping.

After considerable stone flipping - have a plan.
Involves pre catalyzed paint in a can.
Going to test today and will post along with a few other items of wear I could use some advice on.

Much appreciate the input!
-CM


----------



## Charlieman22

The good news- managed to get a few coats on the bed and the legs today.
The bad news - color came out too orange.
Picture actually makes it look more red - but this was not my target.
Figured since it was small - I would go for it with the paint = red.
Then polish up the metal work to allow it to stand out against the red.
Stole the idea from some of the 10EE machines I have seen online.
Of course - my little Logan wont be so fancy - but since its small - a bit of pop made sense to me.

Unfortunately, the paint is pre-catalyzed - and had to be used up in a 6-8 hour max window.
This was my trick for getting a tough finish here in Cali.
That means that if I want to change the shade with a top coat - I will have to scuff up the surface.
 ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

Will probably bite the bullet and see if I can use a chemical scuffing agent of some kind - that allow a top coat to stick.


----------



## Shiseiji

Not real familiar with paint, had not heard of this type. As an ignorant kid, I worked as a painters assistant, all I cared was that I had a job. We sprayed polyurethane in an unventilated hanger and I had an old tee shirt as a mask. So there is some logic behind not allowing the ignorant to be abused. I born in Santa Monica, grew up in Lawndale, San Jose, and Barstow. Lived in El Monte for a while. Are you right in LA?


----------



## Charlieman22

Woke up this morning and had a look.
Sure enough, It's still just as orange as I remembered it from last night...\
Oh well.  Gonna take a bit longer than I had intended.


I am in LA.
Painted outside with a respirator - having done enough abuse to my body through the years.
If you scuff it up - you can touch it up - which was one of my requirements.
I had them supply me in "Spray Max" cans - as I don't have a paint system.

In the mean time:
I continue to tear down and prep some of the other parts.
Have found a few more bushings that will need replacement - but no missing gear teeth.

Paint process forces a more careful inspection than I would likely have done otherwise.
Scraping parts has you flipping and turning things, removing knobs, wiping down gears.  
Subtle issues of wobble tend to show themselves.

Will feel good to have a clean machine, that I understand the workings of, that is not chewing itself up with swarf and loose bushings.
Have shot pictures - but am sure I will need some help with some of the re-assembly.
Thanks!

-CM


----------



## Charlieman22

Quick update.
Got side tracked - from this side track - to chase down a 10EE Monarch.
(That may or may not fall through - as these things sometimes do - but has kept things interesting.)

In the mean time - the painting tree is in full Snap-On Red bloom.
Final coats went on this morning and I brought the major components inside to assemble.
I've taken the approach of leaving the working bits raw - no paint - as I don't want to have to be precious with how I operate the machine.
Additionally - I left some high impact/wear areas without paint as well - lining the bed of the tray with tool box liner.
Should have it close to assembled this weekend.

-CM


----------



## Charlieman22

Had a window of time to clean and assemble the apron today.
Lapped and oiled the flat surfaces, polished what I could of any metal to metal.
Was able to tighten up a few clearances with depth of gear or handle on to shaft.
You can see my approach with braided and touched surfaces - which is to just leave it bare.

Would rate it a solid if imperfect job.
(perfect being turning down the shafts and fitting with bushings).
Handles move nicely - far better than prior (some were basically stuck).
Will see how it operates as it comes together.


In any event - a bit of machine pin up for your Friday eve.


----------



## extropic

Charlieman22 said:


> Had a window of time to clean and assemble the apron today.
> Lapped and oiled the flat surfaces, polished what I could of any metal to metal.
> Was able to tighten up a few clearances with depth of gear or handle on to shaft.
> You can see my approach with *braided* and touched surfaces - which is to just leave it bare.
> 
> Would rate it a solid if imperfect job.
> (perfect being turning down the shafts and fitting with bushings).
> Handles move nicely - far better than prior (some were basically stuck).
> Will see how it operates as it comes together.
> <snip photo>
> In any event - a bit of machine pin up for your Friday eve.



The apron is lookin great.

In your text, I don't understand the use of the word "braided" and I can't think of a close substitution that would identify it as a typo.
Please elucidate.


----------



## Charlieman22

Ha.  
*abraded.
Basically - the highest wear parts I just left unpainted.
figured with the amount of oil soaking - rust will not be an issue.
Time will tell...


----------



## Charlieman22

Little update this eve.
Rebushed gear box, and managed to get carriage, lead screw and gear box mounted.
Will need to tune everything in and align - but quick test of carriage is so much smoother and positive in its motions.


----------



## Shiseiji

Looking great!


----------



## Charlieman22

Well - she is buttoned up and running.
I am happy with how it came out.
With that said... Sometime in the middle - when all the parts were spewed out everywhere like I was holding a yard sale - I realized that what I really wanted was...
A 10EE.

That was in part because one came available at a very reasonable price.
Story here - if you want to follow.

I am going to sell this lathe locally on craigslist I think.
I will never get what I put in to it out of it of course - the labor was intensive.
I have the carriage working really nicely.
Same for the gear box.
New bushing - and most of a 5 C collet closer.

Below some pics for your entertainment.

Before


After


----------



## extropic

The lathe looks very good.

Two comments:
The bare metal surfaces are so clean they look dry (not a good thing). Wiping them down with a light oil (NOT WD40) will improve the look.
Also, you said "most of a collet loser". I think it would be a BIG selling point if you could advertise a "working collet closer". Have you rejected the idea of getting it working?


----------



## Charlieman22

Thanks.   Yes. Spell correct has mind of its own.

it’s been a good process for me.
Also - In in my rush to post I failed to send out a thankyou to everyone that helped me get here. 
Super helpful at every turn - so to speak... 

Collet closer - I agree - and in fact - had done some work on it already. 
Next person should have it and functional if possible.
I wrestled the apron to the ground until the clutch operated smoothly and all handles moved well/ smoothly - read - took it back apart after I had it nicely sealed with gasket sealer...  
Then - I turned my focus to the collet closer.
Here - I got a fair ways along but had some questions.

Some pics below:
1.  Does the part that fits in the spindle look correct?  It doesn’t seat all the way into the spindle - though it seems a very good fit. Not sure if it is or isn’t the right taper. Can someone with experience let me know if this is how it should seat - or is this the wrong taper part?




2.  Have a look at the part that is half way down the closet in this picture. You can see two fairly fine “dogs”. However - there is no reciprocating female detents when it slips inside the spindle tail. Not sure what to make of that.


	

		
			
		

		
	
Here it is inserted in the spindle tail.
Note that the nut that screws on to the spindle tail seams to have two receiving detents for those dogs.


However - my part fits INSIDE this nut - and my dogs seem to want to interface with the spindle tail iteself - which has no detents.


My suspicion is that the prior owner sourced this - but perhaps it was from a different model year.
That said - the parts seam to be there - like the mounting lug off the back of the headset - for the anchor to pivot off of.

Any thoughts on above by those with experience ?


----------



## 682bear

I can't help with the closer... but as far as the spindle sleeve goes, I wouldn't think you would want it to seat against the shoulder... it is supposed to fit against the inner taper, like a morse taper would. 

In other words, as long as it fits snugly and has no excessive runout, you should be good.

I would think if you slipped it inside the spindle... just until it seats... and tried 'rocking' it, that should tell you whether the taper is right... or not.

-Bear


----------



## Charlieman22

Thanks Bear.
no rock what so ever.
feels like a precision fit - just doesn’t seat all the way to shoulder.

will keep eye out for more responses on tail end anomalies.


----------



## wa5cab

All taper fits, including Morse, are supposed to go tight on the taper, not againist any shoulder.  If a shoulder hits before the taper stops whatever you are installing, THEN you have a problem.  Either the spindle taper and the tool taper are not the same or something else is wrong.


----------



## Charlieman22

wa5cab said:


> All taper fits, including Morse, are supposed to go tight on the taper, not againist any shoulder.  If a shoulder hits before the taper stops whatever you are installing, THEN you have a problem.  Either the spindle taper and the tool taper are not the same or something else is wrong.


 Based on how it feels when inserted- I am confident it is in fact correct.
Your point makes sense. If it went to the shoulder, it would create two exact points that would need to mesh - taper AND shoulder. That would be impossible to tool.

Thank you


----------



## Charlieman22

Have had a good look at Randy Richard's sorting out of his collet closer - which is in fact my model.
My best guess is that the indexing part I have with the male dogs was supposed to fit a nut that had female detents on the ID near the end of the spindle.

I've got an idea for how I might fabricate something that would also help keep any runout minimized. More on that in future post.

In the mean time - a cry for help.
The 3 jaw chuck I have is made by Logan.
It's three parts, a back plate, a center section, and the front with the slots for the jaws.

I have managed to separate the back plate, but have no clue how to do the same for the front and middle section.
I have everything marked - and sitting in evaporust.
Does anyone have any tricks they can share on how I might disengage the front from this middle section?

Thanks!
-CM


----------



## extropic

Pictures of chuck?


----------



## mattthemuppet2

is there a screw in the back of the middle part near the pinnion? If so, remove that and lever the pinion out.

if not, make sure there aren't any screws left that might hold the 2 halves together, remove the jaws and use a piece of wood to give the face of the scroll a sharp tap through each slot, with the chuck lying on its side. It'll take a few whacks going round the slots, but you should see a thin line appear between the two halves. If you can't get any further than that, stop and take some pictures. Rarely the pinion can cause things to hang up. Happened to me once, but I can't remember enough about it to know what I did.


----------



## Charlieman22

extropic said:


> Pictures of chuck?


Ha.  I didn't think I would get away with that...
Chuck is soaking in rust remover - so I didn't want to pull it for photo.

Mathew - good - will look and attempt.

Pics of split chuck or unsplit to follow...

Thanks.
-CM


----------



## Charlieman22

Ok - chuck is out of the bath - so to speak.
Closer look - the split line is not at the jaws - so impacting with wood inside the jaw slots would not do anything - unless I struck the spinny part that looks like cartoon eyes when they are punched. 
_Editors Note - I would only type that description here..._
Shot some pics.
Suggestions to split?


----------



## mattthemuppet2

same deal. The spiral piece is the scroll and sits in a recess in both halves. Looks like the pinion (where you put the key) is held in place by the 2 halves.

So, if you push the scroll away from the front of the chuck and hold the front half, you will push the back half out. Another way to do it if you're careful is to thread in longer screws (than stock) into the 6 holes around the center, then lightly tap the head of each one in turn with a hammer. Same deal, should push the back half off.


----------



## Charlieman22

Mathew - had posted elsewhere in the general and someone said the same.
Realized that you likely meant that with your first direction.
Came apart with little drama and fairly light taps.
Grease - even though it had been soaking for 24+ hours in evaporust - was like layers of wax paper.
Will clean it up and re-assemble with some new grease.
Much appreciated!
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
d


----------



## Shiseiji

Yes, I don't think Evaporust is a petroleum product dissolving agent. A reminder to me that rust isn't the only thing that can hold something together.


----------



## Charlieman22

This is the first time I have used Evaporust so extensively.
Have to say - kinda knocked out.
1.  Low VOC - at least to my nose.  Nothing like mineral spirits or strippers (the liquid kind - just to clarify).
2.  Non-abrasive means to remove rust, paint, grease, oil.  It is kinda remarkable.  All of the Logan lathe was restored after bathing in that - then lightly wire wheeled to polish, or if stripping, putty knifed the paint onto a paper towel next to the bath, then brass brushed off any little bits before final wire wheel treatment.  
I used only a little paint stripper - and hated it every time.  Instead - I used a large storage tub (LDPE) and just bathed the parts for 24 hours.  The next day - the paint was shriveled like your hands after a long session doing the dishes.  It just sluffed off.
3.  I rinsed in water - then shot with silicone or wd 40.  had precious to no flash rust.  Very nice product for restoration job.

One trick:  As I tore down a section - for example the gear box - I put the parts in 1 gallon or sandwich sized seal bags.  I punched a hole in the bottom, and put the bag in the trough of evaporust, filling the bag and submerging the parts.  This kept the small components - even down to little woodruff keys - in their group.  When I pulled them - I would just hold the bag up and let it drain from that hole - then rinsed while still in the bag - then threw it on a paper towel on my bench and wiped down/siliconed where appropriate.  Made re-assembly simple.  
Also - if you are using a tub, one with a cover means you can store and reuse the evaporust - ALOT.  

I hate scraping.
My $.02
-CM


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## Shiseiji

I don't have a large container. My two small ones are something my GF got rid of from the kitchen. Clear with a center pop seal button. Almost no evaporation.


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## mattthemuppet2

Charlieman22 said:


> Came apart with little drama and fairly light taps.
> Grease - even though it had been soaking for 24+ hours in evaporust - was like layers of wax paper.
> Will clean it up and re-assemble with some new grease.
> Much appreciated!
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nice! Glad you got it apart without any drama. Your pic seems to show some damage to the back (geared part) of the scroll, or is that just old grease?


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## Charlieman22

Shiseiji said:


> I don't have a large container. My two small ones are something my GF got rid of from the kitchen. Clear with a center pop seal button. Almost no evaporation.


Nice to have some narrow and deep (think $6.00 harbor freight oil drain pan) and long/ large - think storage bin from local hardware store.
Reason: its critical to make sure your parts are 100% submerged - or they will get a nasty line on them where the evaporust level was.  long parts - think rods, saddle, etc - will be well covered in a fairly shallow but long container.  Narrow thick parts - think chucks - will be well covered in the smaller diameter/ deeper container.  Or... just buy a ton of evaporust...  But make sure to cover the parts completely.


mattthemuppet2 said:


> nice! Glad you got it apart without any drama. Your pic seems to show some damage to the back (geared part) of the scroll, or is that just old grease?



That is in fact just 50 year old grease - now dissolved in the evaporust.
Really happy about how the lathe turned out - every time I walk in to the garage.
The polished aluminum bits aren't so bad to look at.
Got a new belt for it - which added some smoothness - and I put a little piece of inner tube over the leather belt's connecting point.
Chuck is back together.
Question - what keeps the chuck from just unscrewing when the machine is operating (pained me to have to type that)


Little piece of inner tube - lubed with soap and water and stretched over the belt.  Covers the splice in the belt.
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
installed back on the lathe and ready.


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## extropic

Charlieman22 said:


> Question - what keeps the chuck from just unscrewing when the machine is operating (pained me to have to type that)



During normal (CCW spindle rotation) any cutting forces obviously tend to tighten the chuck onto the spindle.
Since there's no E brake, instant deceleration isn't an issue.
However, if CW spindle rotation is desired, unscrewing the chuck is possible and one of many factors the operator should manage.

I've seen posts where some sort of locking scheme has been attempted. Sometimes, as simple as a setscrew (with soft plug) through the chuck back plate hub and bearing on the spindle thread .


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## Charlieman22

Extropic - thanks.  Ok - that makes sense - I wondered about reversing and the potential for having a heavy runaway object spinning at my feet... 

Need to revive my mill thread - and see if I can convince you to re-visit your proposal for the screw extensions where needed for adding handles.
I did not fully comprehend that one at the time - but suspect I might do better a second time around with a bit more experience under my belt (and a lathe in my garage!)


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## Shiseiji

Charlieman22 said:


> Extropic - thanks.  Ok - that makes sense - I wondered about reversing and the potential for having a heavy runaway object spinning at my feet...
> 
> Need to revive my mill thread - and see if I can convince you to re-visit your proposal for the screw extensions where needed for adding handles.
> I did not fully comprehend that one at the time - but suspect I might do better a second time around with a bit more experience under my belt (and a lathe in my garage!)


Here's a thread you can get some ideas from:  https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/little-atlas-618-with-a-big-cross-feed-dial.19920/ I've also thought about tapping the end of the cross slide screw, use that to screw on an extension, then put a sleeve over the joint with lock-tite. Enlarge the ID of the extended screw bushing as needed. Here is an article on what most people come to as how to remove the end play from the gap needed for the micrometer dial to turn:  https://www.hobby-machinist.com/res...outh-bend-heavy-10-small-dial-cross-pdf.2218/


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