# New Pm-25mv



## JayMcClellan (Jan 5, 2017)

Hello I'm new to this forum and just recently got my first milling machine, a PM-25MV. So far I'm liking the machine a lot, don't have any experience with others for comparison but it seems to be stable and have plenty of power for my purposes. The column needed minor tramming but everything else was dead-on right from the crate, at least to within my ability to measure it. Rather than get the small stand for it, I'm using a (formerly) rolling tool cart supported on a solid base with leveling feet. I made a temporary enclosure with pegboard and plastic film to contain the chips, which I plan to replace with something more permanent - but "temporary" setups in my shop sometimes last longer than planned so it might stay like this for a while.







As a learning project, my nephew and I are each making a matched pair of toolmaker's vises following Tubalcain's YouTube videos. So far they're coming out well.


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## tweinke (Jan 5, 2017)

Welcome!  Glad to hear you are enjoying your PM-25. Sounds like an awesome way to spend time with your nephew.


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## MonkMan (Jan 6, 2017)

Welcome Jay, you can't go wrong with QMT.


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## T Bredehoft (Jan 6, 2017)

You've got a good start. I bought my PM25 about a year and a half ago. It's been all I expected. I've made some mods, put in an electric head lift and an X power feed, but its still the same machine, just more friendly.  I grew up in a Tool Room, no one worried about chips, so I've got them everywhere, but your solution looks good. I also applaud your choice of projects, small precision vises are a welcome addition to any shop. I have one I made in 1976 that is a third hand often.


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## markba633csi (Jan 6, 2017)

Jay where did you buy the gooseneck light? Or did it come with the mill? Looks cool, like a showerhead.
Mark S.


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## JayMcClellan (Jan 6, 2017)

markba633csi said:


> Jay where did you buy the gooseneck light? Or did it come with the mill? Looks cool, like a showerhead.
> Mark S.


Mark, the gooseneck light came from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W3GNL14/
I wouldn't mind having it a bit brighter and the gooseneck could be stiffer, but for under $20 I can't complain.


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## lpeedin (Jan 7, 2017)

It looks like you are off to a good start.  I know you didn't ask, but I only have one small bit of advice.  For 99% of your milling needs, you won't need the swivel base on the vise.  I would just mount the vise to the table and only install the swivel base when you need it.  This will increase your rigidity in your set up, which means a lot with our hobby sized machines.  I do like your neat work area!  Welcome to the club!


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## JayMcClellan (Jan 7, 2017)

3dshooter80 said:


> It looks like you are off to a good start.  I know you didn't ask, but I only have one small bit of advice.  For 99% of your milling needs, you won't need the swivel base on the vise.  I would just mount the vise to the table and only install the swivel base when you need it.  This will increase your rigidity in your set up, which means a lot with our hobby sized machines.  I do like your neat work area!  Welcome to the club!


Thanks, I already removed the swivel base. I also milled off the 3/4" flange on the back of  the vise that was hitting the vertical way cover, as its only apparent function in my setup was to reduce the usable Y travel by 3/4". That's an advantage of an inexpensive vise like this - I'd hate to start cutting up a $500 vise but I have no qualms modifying this China Special.


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## lpeedin (Jan 7, 2017)

Good deal! I like your style!


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## Bill Kahn (Jun 6, 2017)

T Bredehoft said:


> You've got a good start. I bought my PM25 about a year and a half ago. It's been all I expected. I've made some mods, put in an electric head lift and an X power feed, but its still the same machine, just more friendly.  I grew up in a Tool Room, no one worried about chips, so I've got them everywhere, but your solution looks good. I also applaud your choice of projects, small precision vises are a welcome addition to any shop. I have one I made in 1976 that is a third hand often.


I called Precision Mathews today to buy a PM25MV.  Talked with Greg. He said they did not have a X Powerfeed for that machine. I did not buy it.  Where did you get your X Powerfeed for this machine?  Thank you.  -Bill


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## T Bredehoft (Jun 6, 2017)

I built it with a 12 Volt windshield wiper motor, direct drive with a speed controller, it goes from nothing to 10 inches  a minute. No rapid, however.


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## USMCDOC (Jun 6, 2017)

Ditto..i have  been looking for one to put on the lathe.. 


markba633csi said:


> Jay where did you buy the gooseneck light? Or did it come with the mill? Looks cool, like a showerhead.
> Mark S.


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## wrmiller (Jun 6, 2017)

When I had my PM25 I bought the x-axis pf from Griz for their G704. I don't recall if I had to make any mods to the drive or not, but I don't recall having much difficulty installing it. Worked real well too.


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## brav65 (Jun 7, 2017)

Congratulations on the new mill!   Double check with Matt on the x axis power feed as I have one that I got from Matt last year.


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## T Bredehoft (Jun 7, 2017)

As I was building my X feed, I installed a ball bearing on left end of the table. Even before the motor got in place, I realized that that bearing reduced the friction by 1/3. I just bored a hole in the cast iron end piece of the table for the bearing.


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## eduonline (Jun 14, 2017)

Sorry for hijacking the thread but i was wondering if you know how to remove the z axis leadscrew
i already removed the hand wheel and the pinions but i don't see a way to remove the bearings that keep the lead screw attached to the cast iron part.

thanks in advance guys


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## T Bredehoft (Jun 15, 2017)

Its been too long.  There is a key in the Z lead screw, above the bearing, in a sleeve, I believe. That has to be removed.  Be careful, I dropped two keys in that column. Wish I could remember it better....Computer crashed, lost images.


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## eduonline (Jun 16, 2017)

yes there is a key
But I have tried to remove But i can't find a way


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## eduonline (Jun 16, 2017)

This is the part


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## T Bredehoft (Jun 16, 2017)

I clamped a Vice-Grip on in and worked it out. Then dropped it.


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## eduonline (Jun 16, 2017)

Yes I just pull it out
That worked
Thank you so much
Tomorrow am starting my Cnc conversion

I'll post pics of the build


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## alfaspider (Dec 6, 2017)

T Bredehoft said:


> I built it with a 12 Volt windshield wiper motor, direct drive with a speed controller, it goes from nothing to 10 inches  a minute. No rapid, however.


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## redneckmachinist (Jul 20, 2018)

T Bredehoft said:


> As I was building my X feed, I installed a ball bearing on left end of the table. Even before the motor got in place, I realized that that bearing reduced the friction by 1/3. I just bored a hole in the cast iron end piece of the table for the bearing.




Do you have any photos of your x-drive for the 25?  and any of the bearing installation?   Have seen couple of utube videos on table drives for mini-mills and Tin Barn's version
	

		
			
		

		
	















	

		
			
		

		
	
, but nothing specific to the PM25.  I've had the mill for about a month, and want to work out a reversible drive system with a clutch.  Have  just finished the Z drive following *mrjbinok'*s thread, and want to use the same type of wiper motor and the 30 A power supply I already have.


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## T Bredehoft (Jul 20, 2018)

For my Z drive, I used what looks like the same motor, but it's direct drive, 1 to 1. It doesn't have any trouble unless I forget to release the head clamps.


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## redneckmachinist (Jul 20, 2018)

T Bredehoft said:


> For my Z drive, I used what looks like the same motor, but it's direct drive, 1 to 1. It doesn't have any trouble unless I forget to release the head clamps.




Hi- I was asking about your table X drive- 

_*As I was building my X feed, I installed a ball bearing on left end of the table. Even before the motor got in place, I realized that that bearing reduced the friction by 1/3.*_
_* I just bored a hole in the cast iron end piece of the table for the bearing.*_

_Did you remove the smaller plate that is attached to the side of the table and insert a bearing into it, or make a replacement plate?  This plate see a, b & c is cap screwed onto the side of the table, and I am thinking of making a replacement plate that is bored out for a sealed roller bearing._

_Do you have any photos of your X table motor drive system?  I am wondering how to make a clutch arrangement so that the table can free wheel and be operated by hand from the right side crank.  The Z crank motor drive does not need a clutch, just have to remember to release the gibb stops...._

_Thanks,_


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## redneckmachinist (Jul 20, 2018)

T Bredehoft said:


> For my Z drive, I used what looks like the same motor, but it's direct drive, 1 to 1. It doesn't have any trouble unless I forget to release the head clamps.




Sorry- replied to wrong thread post.

I followed the gear arrangement to limit the width of the Z motor drive, as they installed the DRO monitor close by which limited using the hand crank.   The Z drive does not need a clutch like the X table drive does- just have to remember to loosen the gibb locks?  I had thought of using something like a 5/8" lovejoy 075 connector with rubber bushing, but again wanted to reduce the lateral size of the motor attached to the column...

Thanks,


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## T Bredehoft (Jul 20, 2018)

Sorry no pix. I'm in the middle of building a new computer setup, can't access the photos to send at this point.  I removed and faced the outside face of the original end point. White in your pix. I believe I buried the ball bearing in both pieces, this one and the one inside. I mounted a piece of 1/2 aluminum on the outside of the above piece, I mounted the motor and controls on this plate. I fabricated a hex on the end of the lead screw and a       3/8 square on the motor drive and mounted a 3/8 drive hex socket on both. It slides back and fourth on the 3/8 square, engaging the hex to drive the table. This was about the third or fourth drive system I cobbled together. It worked, I stopped guessing.


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## dcsleep (Jul 20, 2018)

I'm on the same path. Just finished powering z-axis (direct drive, no gears) and am starting on the x-axis. I'm going to follow the design shown here: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/mini-mill-x-power-feed.36948/. I like that the shaft can be slid through the motor drive to implement the clutch. I'm planning to create a hex drive adapter on the end of the lead screw. A socket on the end of the drive shaft will engage/disengage the hex adaptor. Will attach it everything to the end of the table using the two M6 holes outside of the small plate that carries the lead screw. No permanent modifications - it can all be put back to stock quickly if desired.


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## redneckmachinist (Jul 20, 2018)

Here is one other approach to a clutch for the x table drive- using a floating gear:






I followed the thread of *  mrjbinok-  *because this gear drive is "less wide" than a direct drive with Z crank handle and motor drive shaft face to face.

======== 

The support frame was cut and machined for a nice square fit. Notice that there is a 1/8" lip on the end pieces to make it easy to align for welding.






Mock up with the support taped together.







After welding assembly is started.







Original crank is removed.







12 volt power supply is mounted to the wall abd motor assembly is trial fit on the mill.







I decided on a spring loaded momentary ON-OFF-ON rotary switch and picked up a perfect box from Amazon. I wanted the box to mount at an angle so used a couple of cabinet hinges to mount. Later I locked the hinge in this position and used JB Weld to make it somewhat permanent.







My unit has the DRO monitor right in the way, and its pretty crowded space up there and hard to reach.....

Want sort of same thing on the x drive system, with the motor as close to the table as possible .  The floating clutch gear in the utube video seems easy to use, but not sure if plastic gears will hold up...


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## dcsleep (Jul 20, 2018)

Yes, my z-drive is "wider" but not enough to get in the way of the DRO. I thought direct drive would be a little simpler. I put the switch in a box that sits near the base of the mill so I don't have to reach up/back at all.

I'm planning to direct drive the x-axis as well. The design will be similar to what mrpragmaticlee did on his mini mill power feed. In this case the shaft will slide through the motor drive instead of along the motor drive shaft. The only concern is that the shaft is 4mm square - would like a little more meat. I believe the motor was intended for power seats so if it works there then it ought to drive the table.


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## redneckmachinist (Jul 20, 2018)

FYI:  motors- two types from same supplier, free shipping- on time delivery.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Auto...810209?hash=item4181c16821:g:EKQAAOxyIv5TkH5q

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Auto...600132?hash=item3a9139fe44:g:zeMAAOxyDEVSco1a

Third one is a little pricey?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Auto...747681?hash=item5d4cb2d821:g:fmcAAOxyrx5TkIXy


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## redneckmachinist (Jul 20, 2018)

dcsleep said:


> Yes, my z-drive is "wider" but not enough to get in the way of the DRO. I thought direct drive would be a little simpler. I put the switch in a box that sits near the base of the mill so I don't have to reach up/back at all.
> 
> I'm planning to direct drive the x-axis as well. The design will be similar to what mrpragmaticlee did on his mini mill power feed. In this case the shaft will slide through the motor drive instead of along the motor drive shaft. The only concern is that the shaft is 4mm square - would like a little more meat. I believe the motor was intended for power seats so if it works there then it ought to drive the table.




Yes if you have the room, direct drive is simple.  I also thought of using direct drive using a 5/8" lovejoy connector 075 with rubber spider (it has keyway cut into the connector shafts to match Z crank shaft) .  But the gear drive seemed like more of a challenge and I went back and forth with Jim about his setup and gears.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/members/mrjbinok.41861/

I will have the switch monitor box down near the base of the mill, with a lighted pre-switch that needs to be hit before the Z motor will activate to remind me to unlock the Z gibb locks...

Again, my unit is set near a door so I don't have all the space to the left of the table, - and it was a bugger to hoist the mill onto the bench so it ain't moving in my lifetime....


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