# Deciding On A Lathe...



## zboss86 (Nov 6, 2015)

Hey guys, new to the forum...
I work with hot rods and various projects a good bit as a hobby in the evenings.  I do a good bit of "simple" fab work, mainly welding and such.  I'm new to machining.  For some reason, I've just now ran upon this forum.  I see a lot of good info, so I'll be doing some research.

I'd like to acquire a lathe sometime in the near future and maybe a mill later next year.
I was leaning towards an older American style lathe rather than a newer foreign lathe.  But I need to learn more so I know what to look for.  I'm guessing Craigs list is a good place to start looking.

I'm thinking a 13 x 40 would be a good size(suggested by a local fab shop, he said that would be the minimum), but I may could get by fine with a smaller lathe.   I'll be mainly making the occasional spacer, bushing, and I'll need to cut some threads from time to time.


I  saw this one... I'm not jumping on anything yet, I'm in no rush.
http://memphis.craigslist.org/tls/5234809437.html


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## samthedog (Nov 6, 2015)

Hey mate, I have made a bit of a guide for people wanting to buy a lathe:

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/how-to-select-and-buy-a-metalworking-lathe.25974/

Since you will be machining mostly metal, buy somthing with the horsepower to machine tougher metals since bushing material and cast iron can be tough to turn down. You may also need to re-machine disks so make sure you have the size to handle larger jobs.

Paul.


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## joshua43214 (Nov 6, 2015)

hmm,
Hopefully no one here will scoop you on that lathe. That is a very good price assuming the ways and spindle bearing are in good shape.

From the hobbyist perspective, a 13 x 40 is a really big lathe, and is about the upper limit for folks around here. Plenty of them on this forum, not a lot bigger than that though.

There are many pros and cons between an old domestic lathe and a new import. There are also many pros and cons between a smaller lathe in the 9" range, and a bigger lathe in the 14" range. Bigger is better in general, but tooling for a bigger machine can give you a heart attack when you check prices. The price difference between a 6" chuck and a 10" or bigger chuck will make you cry. You can pretty easily spend more on a 10" 3jaw chuck than the lathe you listed is selling for. You can always use smaller and less expensive tooling, but then why own a big lathe and little tools?

The starting point is trying to figure what you will need to be able to do on the lathe. This will dictate the size of machine. Once you have that, make a list of features the lathe must have or it is a deal breaker. Watching YouTube is a great way to figure out what size machine you need. Watch folks doing what you are wanting to do.


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## kd4gij (Nov 6, 2015)

I say get the biggest lathe you have room for, and can afford. You can make small parts on a big lathe. But small lathes can't make big parts. If my shop floor would hold it I would have at least a 14x40 with at least a 2" spindle bore. I have a 12x36 Atlas craftsman lathe. And it isn't big enough for a phew things needed to do.


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## Charles Spencer (Nov 6, 2015)

Hey, the add says $1,500 or best offer.

I'd go $1,200 if it's in decent shape.

Hell, I'd probably go $1, 500 in a machine desert.


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## zboss86 (Nov 6, 2015)

Thanks for the replies...  All good points, even some devils advocates, lol.
I was more worried about the power of this one more than I was the physical size.   The owner said is was a 110V motor, I'm not sure how much that's going to limit me or what size motor I actually need... I've done a lot of reading the past few weeks to catch up on the nomenclature and the fundamentals.  I actually already read some of Paul's pages, but I missed that particular one.  It was a good read...
Space really isn't an issue, I don't have 3 phase, but I can get a converter if needed.  I'll probably eventually need one for a mill anyway.

I made a huge list of questions I'd like to research before I go asking too much...


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## Charles Spencer (Nov 6, 2015)

I've had a 12" Atlas lathe in the past.  110v will give you sufficient power for it.

Let's face it, a 12" lathe is never going to be a metal hogging beast.  However you can do some very good work on it.

No machine is perfect.  I think that is a good lathe for the money.


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## BGHansen (Nov 7, 2015)

Personally I'd take a good look at that Clausing lathe.  I have a 1960'ish #5418 12 x 24.  I don't have a lot of experience with other lathes (just a Rockwell 11" in Junior High, Atlas 12", Rockwell 10"), but I doubt you will find any threads with someone complaining about their Clausing lathe.  The only negative may be the headstock spindle and their (typical) oddball Morse Tape 4 1/2 taper. 

I paid $600 for my #5418 at a high school shop auction.  Came with a 3-jaw, 4-jaw, face plate, dead center, live center, drill chuck, factory case with the full set of Armstrong tool holders for the lantern style tool post.  I didn't have to rebuild or replace anything even though it'd been used for 20 years in the shop.  Clausing made a very solid machine.  Maybe as suggested above go $1200.  Looks like the motor has been replaced with a single phase so you'd be able to plug and play.

Best regards, Bruce


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## samthedog (Nov 7, 2015)

zboss86 said:


> The owner said is was a 110V motor, I'm not sure how much that's going to limit me or what size motor I actually need... I've done a lot of reading the past few weeks to catch up on the nomenclature and the fundamentals.  I actually already read some of Paul's pages, but I missed that particular one.  It was a good read...



I have had and used a few machines and for a car enthusiast, I would try to get a lathe with a 3 HP motor as a minimum. Since you will be doing this as a hobby, you want to make effective use of your time since none of us have much spare time. When you use a machine with low horsepower, you need to baby the machine and take it really slow. Time is the one resource we can't buy more of so investing in a beefier machine is a wise investment that you won't regret.

Contrary to most, I always recommend getting an industrial machine and spending more than you have to. An industrial machine does not compare to a hobby machine and features like clutches, a brake, rigidity and horses to spare is the difference between a drudge-fest and an enjoyable experience machining.

Paul.


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## 4GSR (Nov 7, 2015)

I wouldn't worry about horse power requirements up front.  I can make a 9" SBL with a 1/4 HP motor cut just as much iron as a 13" lathe with a 3 HP motor can!
The key thing you must look at is the actual condition of the lathe.  Things to look for, What is the condition of the bed ways?  Are they lightly worn, or they so worn it looks like a wash board?  What kind of slop is there in the cross feed screw?  Can you see the screw move in/out? Or is it nut slop?  How does the end gearing look in the gear train? Are all of the gears there?  Headstock, does it feel smooth as silk? or does feel like dragging a piece of iron thru a bed of sand?  Once you go thru and evaluated these things, you have to figure out what you can live with and if any are just a flat "no", this is not going to work for me.  Pass on it, if you if there's any doubt about the lathe.  There's always another one to take its place down the road.  I know, I've done this many times over the years.

Ken


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## 4GSR (Nov 7, 2015)

I don't suggest an hobbyist just getting into the machining trade to go out and buy "industrial" quality machines just because somebody said to do so.  Get your feet wet first with a smaller lathe, then take the plunge for a industrial quality machine if you see fit.  You may find the hobby type of machines to be perfect for what you want it for.

AS for horse power, you can always change out motors if you feel more horse power is needed.  As a novist, starting out in the trade, you don't need a lathe with a 3 HP motor!  Stick with a smaller lathe like the one listed above in the Craig's list ad, with a fractional HP motors!


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## wrmiller (Nov 7, 2015)

Opinions are opinions of course, but then there's facts. I'll put me and my 'import' 1340GT (Taiwan) up against any domestic lathe of similar size and weight. Sheesh...


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## zboss86 (Nov 7, 2015)

Here's another lathe posted, it maybe closer to what I'm looking for.  I'm skeptical about getting a used import model that Grizzly isn't making anymore.   I may not be able to get parts for an older model import... 

Grizzly G4016 13.5 x 40 Gear head Lathe - $2500 (Corinth MS)
http://northmiss.craigslist.org/tls/5281314462.html


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## samthedog (Nov 7, 2015)

4gsr said:


> I don't suggest an hobbyist just getting into the machining trade to go out and buy "industrial" quality machines just because somebody said to do so.  Get your feet wet first with a smaller lathe, then take the plunge for a industrial quality machine if you see fit.  You may find the hobby type of machines to be perfect for what you want it for.
> 
> As for horse power, you can always change out motors if you feel more horse power is needed.  As a novist, starting out in the trade, you don't need a lathe with a 3 HP motor!  Stick with a smaller lathe like the one listed above in the Craig's list ad, with a fractional HP motors!



No offence, but why would you bother with a small hobby machine with low horsepower that may need to be upgraded or have the motor replaced - given what his requirements are? His main hobby is cars, not repairing or upgrading machines. Also, the recommendation to get an industrial machine is based on the heavier work he would likely be doing in making car parts that tend to be heavier and larger that are often made from cast or steel. Also, a crash on an industrial machine is usually less catastrophic since you have clutches and better quality materials. I have seen many scrap hobby machines that have been crashed, but very few industrial machines, even those that came from schools.

Also, how on earth can you get a 1/4 HP machine to cut as aggresively as a 3 HP? Maybe I am missing something here but there is a reason why workshops use machines that have higher HP ratings. When making larger parts, there is usually a need for more material removal and with a small motor you will be standing there for far longer than with a bigger, beefier machine. This is not my opinion, this is a fact that is demonstarted in machine shops all over the world. When I changed from a 3/4 HP Emco to my 3 HP Colchester, the difference was night and day and I shaved hours off bigger jobs.

At the end of the day the choice is his. If he enjoys standing at a lathe for hours shaving small amounts of metal at each pass, or upgrading and tinkering with the lathe rather than working on his cars, that is his call. All I know is that those who started with small hobby machines usually ended up upgrading to bigger machines and not looking back, myself included.  

Paul.


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## atunguyd (Nov 7, 2015)

kd4gij said:


> I say get the biggest lathe you have room for, and can afford. You can make small parts on a big lathe. But small lathes can't make big parts. If my shop floor would hold it I would have at least a 14x40 with at least a 2" spindle bore. I have a 12x36 Atlas craftsman lathe. And it isn't big enough for a phew things needed to do.


While this is technically true it is not always practical to try do small stuff on a big lathe. 

Big chucks can only close so far so for really small work you battle. 

Also for small work you need high RPM. 
A mini lathe running at 2400 rpm is a lot less intimidating than a 12x running at the same speed (assuming you can find one that runs that fast). 

While a bigger lathe is always desirable, if the bulk of the work you are going to be doing is small them rather look at a smaller lathe. 

Sent from my SM-N920C using Tapatalk


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## samthedog (Nov 7, 2015)

zboss86 said:


> Here's another lathe posted, it maybe closer to what I'm looking for.  I'm skeptical about getting a used import model that Grizzly isn't making anymore.   I may not be able to get parts for an older model import...
> 
> Grizzly G4016 13.5 x 40 Gear head Lathe - $2500 (Corinth MS)
> http://northmiss.craigslist.org/tls/5281314462.html



What spares are you expecting to need? Usually things like bearings, gears and leadscrews are standard so I wouldn't let that put you off. That machine looks pretty good and should do what you need. I know some guys who are into rodding here in Norway and these type of machines are popular. I prefer more power but 2 HP is nothing to sneeze at. 2100 RPM is good for smaller stuff too. It looks like spares are available for this machine and after a bath it should look pretty good:

https://www.grizzly.com/products/13-1-2-x-40-Gear-Head-Lathe-w-Stand/G4016

Gunsmiths and small workshops use this machine and it would be on the serious end of the hobby market or the lower end of a small job shop. I don't know what the going price is for used machines in the USA but if it checks out mechanically and is not worn too much, this type of machine should put a smile on your face.

Paul.


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## zboss86 (Nov 7, 2015)

Yeah, I've been scratching my head on the Grizzly...  Still thinking about it.

Here's a guy downsizing his shop.  He has a Rockwell 15"x42", a small Bridgeport, tooling, and a phase converter.
http://tricities.craigslist.org/tls/5275269860.html

I found some information on the Rockwell here.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/delta metal/page3.html


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## 4GSR (Nov 7, 2015)

zboss86 said:


> Yeah, I've been scratching my head on the Grizzly...  Still thinking about it.
> 
> Here's a guy downsizing his shop.  He has a Rockwell 15"x42", a small Bridgeport, tooling, and a phase converter.
> http://tricities.craigslist.org/tls/5275269860.html
> ...



Nothing wrong with the Rockwell lathe.  I bought one recently.  Haven't had a chance to set it up yet, but so far a decent lathe.
And that one for the price he wants for it plus tooling, not a bad deal!  Go for it if that's what you want.  Just remember, you can't get repair parts for it.  Have to make any replacement parts when the time comes.


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## samthedog (Nov 7, 2015)

zboss86 said:


> Yeah, I've been scratching my head on the Grizzly...  Still thinking about it.
> 
> Here's a guy downsizing his shop.  He has a Rockwell 15"x42", a small Bridgeport, tooling, and a phase converter.
> http://tricities.craigslist.org/tls/5275269860.html
> ...



I don't know what the rpm range or HP is for that machine but it looks like a substancial machine. for 4k you could have a a mill and lathe - not bad when I consider I paid that for my mill on it's own. The lathe's specs are as follows:

230V/3PH/60HZ
S/N: 1368221
Belt Driven
Swing over bed and saddle wings: 14-1/4"
Swing over cross slide: 9-1/8"
Distance between centers: 41"
Hole through spindle: 1-3/8"
Maximum collet capacity: 1-1/16"
Spindle speeds: 40 - 1750 RPM, variable
Threading: 4 - 224 TPI (54)
Longitudinal feeds: .0017" to .099" ( 54)
Cross feeds: .00089" - .052" (54)
Headstock/Tailstock centers: # 3 MT
Spindle nose: L-00
Cross slide travel: 8"
Compound slide travel: 4-3/4"
Motor: 2 HP
Overall dimensions: 86" x 25" x 48" high
Estimated weight: 1950 lbs
Not bad for the price. Outside the USA an L-00 spindle would be a deal breaker but you will be able to find chucks and accessories. The weight makes it a stable machine. If it's in good shape I would go for it. This is a lot of machine for the money and having taper turning is a bonus for doing those odd jobs.

Paul.


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## kd4gij (Nov 7, 2015)

atunguyd said:


> While this is technically true it is not always practical to try do small stuff on a big lathe.
> 
> Big chucks can only close so far so for really small work you battle.
> 
> ...


 

 Put an er40 or 5C collet chuck on a 14x40 small parts is a breeze. With that said if ones interest is small scale models or clock work then A small lathe is the way to go. If the interest is in hot rods , motorcycle, or gunsmith then  14x40 is the best choice. My 12" will do 2400rpm as well as the 14x40 I use at work. At those speeds I am using collets.


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## coolidge (Nov 7, 2015)

The problem is for every decent old American lathe how many clapped out junkers will you have to sift through? Second, you will make a significant investment in tool holders, tooling, likely a DRO, chucks, you can easily spend the cost of the lathe again on this stuff so choose your lathe wisely. A mistake would be buying a lathe you quickly outgrow, so you buy a larger lathe then you start over buying all the extras a second time.

If I were making things for hot rods my expectation of the lathe and mill would be capable of producing show quality work.


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## maker of things (Nov 8, 2015)

To me, it seems like there are about three paths that someone getting into machining as a hobby will take. 1) buy the thing, halfheartedly play with it a few times and then 5-10 years later sell it on craigslist. 2)Buy something start learning on it but find out some mortal flaw in the type, size or quality of the machine. The sell it and buy a machine that works better.  3) become totally obsessed and buy more/larger machines and keep looking for projects that would require even larger/nicer/different style.
  Most people on all the machining forums that are there for a year or more are going through 2 and/or 3.  It is impossible for any other person to tell you exactly what you need because everyone has a slightly different situation.  
  If you can think of specific parts that you would like to make, and ask if "x" machine is suitable for that part you may get closer to finding which machine may last you for awhile.   Maybe also try to find youtube videos of that part being made and inspect the machine it is being made on.  If there is one part that really catches your eye and it is being made on a lathe you are looking at, you can feel fairly confident that at some point you should be able to do the same.
  Just be aware, if you get into this hobby, you will be buying more.


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## mksj (Nov 8, 2015)

You need to determine your budget, then that will dictate the size, condition and quality of the lathe that one would consider. If you like to tinker and fix things, then an older lathe may be in the cards, if you just want to get into it, and start turning you want something that doesn't need to be fixed/upgraded. Parts can be an issue with older machine, and then you need to think of available chucks and gearing for vintage machines. If you haven't fixed/repaired older machines then go with something newer that you know that it works and holds tolerance.

I would say the sweet spot for many hobbyist machinists would be a 12x36 to 14x40, unless all you plan to do is really small stuff. Size wise they have about the same footprint. I started out wanting something smaller, but ended up with a 13x40, and glad that I did. Small stuff is no problem, I use a 5C chuck which works great, otherwise and ER type holder also works very well. Most of these machines top out at 1600-2000 RPM, that has been fine for small work I have done. Beyond 2000-2500 RPM you will having bearing issues with splash lubrication.

Consider how much threading you will be doing, and if you will be doing metric. Need for change gears, ergonomics and weight of the machine you will won't to work with. Last, but not least, tooling for the machine can be very costly for the lathe so I would figure another 50-75% of the cost of the lathe for this (unless you are really good at scrounging).


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## wrmiller (Nov 8, 2015)

I cringe every time someone comes on here and asks the members to 'pick a machine for me'. Like Jon says, it's impossible for some other person to tell you exactly what you need, when everyone has different opinions on likes, dislikes, features, etc., etc.. IMO, a better way to seek assistance here would be to ask questions that can be answered with facts rather than opinions. For example, "what swing is required for making something like this', or 'what spindle speeds do I need to turn a specific material', or 'I want to make/rebuild clocks so what type of lathe is better suited for this' (the question begs opinions, but should focus them a bit).

These types of questions may reduce the level of noise you get for answers (get the biggest you can afford, buy US only, buy HF, etc.), or so I'd like to think anyway. 

Just throwing a general question out, while great typing exercise for the members here, will do very little to actually help you decide on parentage/size/features you should use to narrow your choices. If the goal is just to have someone do all the thinking for you and hand you a choice, the likelyhood of actually being happy what that choice is iffy at best.


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## JimDawson (Nov 8, 2015)

wrmiller19 said:


> I cringe every time someone comes on here and asks the members to 'pick a machine for me'. Like Jon says, it's impossible for some other person to tell you exactly what you need, when everyone has different opinions on likes, dislikes, features, etc., etc.. IMO, a better way to seek assistance here would be to ask questions that can be answered with facts rather than opinions. For example, "what swing is required for making something like this', or 'what spindle speeds to I need to turn a specific material', or 'I want to make/rebuild clocks so what type of lathe is better suited for this' (the question begs opinions, but should focus them a bit).
> 
> These types of questions may reduce the level of noise you get for answers (get the biggest you can afford, buy US only, buy HF, etc.), or so I'd like to think anyway.
> 
> Just throwing a general question out, while great typing exercise for the members here, will do very little to actually help you decide on parentage/size/features you should use to narrow your choices. If the goal is just to have someone do all the thinking for you and hand you a choice, the likelyhood of actually being happy what that choice is iffy at best.



Well said Bill!  :+1:


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## Btroj (Nov 8, 2015)

When I was looking for a lathe I asked a few guys I respected.  Both said that while they like old US iron they suggested a new Chinese made lathe.  
The reasons given were well spoken.  I don't have a clue what to look for in determining the status of an older lathe, I'm new to this stuff.  I was also looking for a tool to use, not a project.  I wasn't interested in or have the knack to make an older lathe functional should it be worn or missing parts.  I anted something good to go from the start.
In short, we all have different needs and desires.  What fits me may not fit someone else.  

I am quite pleased with my PM 1236, it has done all could ask of it this far.


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## Bill C. (Nov 8, 2015)

We don't want to discourage anyone.  I/we have seen others do fine work on some of the poorest equipped machines out there.  My uncle was a WWII Army Air Corp machinist who bought a lathe from that era or earlier. Straight gear change, no quick gear box sitting in his tool shed. The thing was so noisy when he ran it. Had the old tool holders and a stack of change gears.

If you live near other home machinist go see their machines. Ask them what they like or dislike abut their lathes.  A lathe or mill sitting in the corner covered up isn't doing anyone any good. 

Unless you are making parts for RC cars and planes or model trains look for a medium size swing lathe.  Good luck in your search


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## maker of things (Nov 8, 2015)

So, in conclusion, buy the "most" machine you can afford (whatever criteria you pick) while leaving some money for tooling.  Whatever machine you get, come on back, let us know and many people will be willing to answer your questions and get you making chips.


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## Bill C. (Nov 8, 2015)

maker of things said:


> So, in conclusion, buy the "most" machine you can afford (whatever criteria you pick) while leaving some money for tooling.  Whatever machine you get, come on back, let us know and many people will be willing to answer your questions and get you making chips.



Usually there is at least one member on here will have owned the model lathe you find.  I wish we could tell buy one particular brand.  But there are many variables to consider; swing diameter, motor voltage and toolage.  We have engineers, designers and a lot of hobbyists all have different requirements.  Even each used machine may have different features like spindle brakes and carriage stops.  Good luck


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## tomh (Nov 8, 2015)

Before buying any machine, find a trade school or a community college near you. Call and talk to the machine shop instructors to arrange a time to go and see the classroom / lab.  That way you can stand in front of the lathes / mills and get a feel for size and scope of the machine, and get a better idea of what you think will or won't work for you. Talk to them about day or night classes.  How old are you ? Some states offer classes for folks 60 and over for free all you pay is a small fee often under fifty bucks +/-.  Are you a vet? There are many programs / look into all opportunities and  ask if they will let you observe a class to see if it's right for you.
Tomh


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## samthedog (Nov 9, 2015)

wrmiller19 said:


> I cringe every time someone comes on here and asks the members to 'pick a machine for me'. Like Jon says, it's impossible for some other person to tell you exactly what you need, when everyone has different opinions on likes, dislikes, features, etc., etc.. IMO, a better way to seek assistance here would be to ask questions that can be answered with facts rather than opinions. For example, "what swing is required for making something like this', or 'what spindle speeds do I need to turn a specific material', or 'I want to make/rebuild clocks so what type of lathe is better suited for this' (the question begs opinions, but should focus them a bit).
> 
> These types of questions may reduce the level of noise you get for answers (get the biggest you can afford, buy US only, buy HF, etc.), or so I'd like to think anyway.
> 
> Just throwing a general question out, while great typing exercise for the members here, will do very little to actually help you decide on parentage/size/features you should use to narrow your choices. If the goal is just to have someone do all the thinking for you and hand you a choice, the likelyhood of actually being happy what that choice is iffy at best.



I thought he provided sufficient info to help him get on his way considering he mentioned his hobby. If you have ever made custom or oblsolete car parts on a lathe you have a ball-park to provide some suggestions with regards to size, power, rpm and features like a thread cutting gear box etc. In hot-rodding the majority of material machines is cast, steel or bronze for bushes with the occasional exception of aluminium or brass for some decoration. Based on this you can provide a decent set of requirements that will narrow the field substancially.

An easy way to see what you need is to visit people who share the same hobby as you and see what machines they use. You will quickly see a trend and this is based on requirements for the type of work carried out. This is what my recommendations are based on since I have been involved and still machine parts for the hot-rodding community in Norway. There are a number of typical jobs carried out within this hobby so recommendations can be quite safely made based on features of the machines. 

Any time you ask for advice you will get noise because everyone wants to help. Your job is to be an informed buyer and listen to those who are doing what you are planning on doing and then make up your own mind.

Paul.


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## zboss86 (Nov 9, 2015)

Appreciate the responses...    It's all been helpful.  Not really looking to do a lot of machining, I'd just like to have the ability to cut a part down, thread a piece, make a spacer, bushing, etc. when needed.  Our shops are pricy and two weeks out anytime I need something small done.  It's all normally odd ball stuff, so I can't really nail down anything specific I'd make.  I'd love to take a night class, it'd really open up the capabilities of the machines.   But nothing is really available locally.  I've taken night classes before for welding, can't say I learned a lot, but I got a lot of good seat time.  Seat time is pretty valuable...

I've spoke with a couple local shops about their lathes.  Both are running a Jet1340, which is really similar to the Grizzly I saw on Craigslist.  Neither seemed real proud of the machine but they said they work for what they needed.  The guy with fab shop said he wouldn't get anything smaller just b/c it'd be too light.  I did make an attempt to check out the Rockwell, but owner isn't answering any calls or email.

Just as well, I managed to drop a rather large pipe on my foot last weekend, so I'll be confined to crutches for a few weeks.  On a positive note, that'll give me some time to do some researching.  I'll post back if I have any specific questions or come up with a machine.  Thanks again for all the replies...

Shad


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## zboss86 (Nov 14, 2015)

I picked up the Grizzly 4016.  The previous owner seemed pretty honest and took a lot of time to go over the machine with me and ran the lathe through all its gears.   He had this one several years and just upgraded to a nice 15x60 Clausing.  He also just acquired a series 1 Bridgeport that was a very nice looking machine.

I didn't really want to take on several more projects like restoring a machine or setting up a phase converter.  There are a couple local guys that have similar machine to this in town, so I may have some resources to help me if needed.   The machine seems like a good all around size for what I need. 

Now I need to find a way to unload it off the trailer, wire up some extra 220V, and start researching what tooling I need.


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## Bill C. (Nov 14, 2015)

Some would hire a wrecker with a boom.  If you are moving it from a trailer to a garage a good operator should be able to move it inside.  It the ceiling is high enough should be able to put it where you want it.  If you know others who have similar lathe ask them what tooling they prefer.  Glad you found one.


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## zboss86 (Nov 14, 2015)

That's a good idea, didn't think about a wrecker...  I got lucky, my cherry picker managed it better than I thought.  I'll definitely be paying those guys with similar lathes another visit....


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## 4GSR (Nov 14, 2015)

zboss86 said:


> ....snip.....Now I need to find a way to unload it off the trailer, wire up some extra 220V, and start researching what tooling I need.



Get you a couple of 2 x 8's, slide up under the edge of the lathe.  Lag bolt the lathe down to the 2 x 8's, leaving them sticking out as much as you can, at least half of the 2 x 8 sticking out.  You can even use 2 x 10 of you like.  next tie off to a tree or a bulk head in the garage and drag off the the lathe using a come a long.  I've moved many machines using this method.  A little workout for you or if you are lucky to have a teenager handy, put them to work helping.  Once you get it on the ground roll it around on 1/2" black pipe pieces until you get it where you want it.  Then start removing the 2 x 8's boards, letting it down 1/2" at a time until you have the lathe on the ground.

Ken


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## joshua43214 (Nov 14, 2015)

IF you have balls the size of Ave, you can move anything 





He makes me look like an amateur redneck. Must be something to do with folks suffering from acute Canadianism...


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## zboss86 (Nov 14, 2015)

I have no words for that video...


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## maker of things (Nov 14, 2015)

Congrats.  That lathe should be able to do what you are planning on quite nicely.  You can even still download the owner's manual from the Grizzly website.  That's a nice all around size and if you are able to outwork it someday, good for you.  Now you know we need to see some pictures though, right?


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## zboss86 (Nov 15, 2015)

Got the lathe leveled and wired.




Not sure if I'll ever use any of this...  It came with a taper attachment, collet set, 4 jaw, steady rest.




He went ahead and gave me these boring bits, his lathe wasn't set up to run this type.


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## zboss86 (Nov 15, 2015)

Dad use to do tool and die about 30-40 years ago.  He still had some old bits and tools in the bottom of his tool chest.  Not sure what's good and what's not...  I need to look them up and see what does what.
To the untrained eye, it looks like a pile of scrap.  Hell, it may be, but I'll sift through it and see what's what...




Organized them a bit...


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## zboss86 (Nov 15, 2015)

A few other tools I got from pops..


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## Charles Spencer (Nov 15, 2015)

I'd say that you got a pretty nice setup going there for a pretty good price.

I'd recommend giving everything a cleaning, especially the tools that are showing some rust.  Steel wool is your friend.

"Not sure if I'll ever use any of this... It came with a taper attachment, collet set, 4 jaw, steady rest."

Yes you will if you do even semi-serious hobby machining.


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## JimDawson (Nov 15, 2015)

zboss86 said:


> ..........Not sure if I'll ever use any of this...  It came with a taper attachment, collet set, 4 jaw, steady rest.............To the untrained eye, it looks like a pile of scrap.



You'll use all of it down the road.   It ain't scrap.  Clean it up and keep it!


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## zboss86 (Nov 16, 2015)

Yeah, I'm not chunking any of it.  Just sorting it out to see what else I need. I need to get me another small tool box to organize the tooling.

Made some spacers last night last night for the wifes barn door project.  Nothing was too critical so it was a good spot to start.   Now I need to do some control arm spacers


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## zboss86 (Nov 16, 2015)

Now I need to make some control arm bushings for my car.  I really didn't get the finish I was looking for with the spacers last night, it was a little too rough.  Worked fine for the spacers, but wouldn't be smoothing enough for bushings.   So I'll be doing some reading on today on the proper speeds and tooling to use.

I'll probably make them out of cold roll steel.  3/4" outside diameter, 1/2" inside diameter, 2.5" long.


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## maker of things (Nov 16, 2015)

Cool.  Looks like you are off to a great start.  Major bonus points that the first project was for the wife!


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## kingmt01 (Dec 1, 2015)

I'm late to the party so I won't say figure out what is the biggest you will ever need then get way bigger. Or will I say get as big as you can afford. 

I considered a lathe like that HF was selling but went with a gunsmiths lathe from Grizzly. I like my 14"x40" but it only took a week to find a project that wouldn't fit & had to drive the part to town to pay someone to do it. That was the best $10 I have ever spent but at the same time I'd rather not have drove to town.

Congrats on all the tooling you got handed down. I'd love to score something like that.

I'm still not great at turning parts but I'm getting pretty good at making chips & most of the time I have a usable part left over.


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## Doc Whoops (Dec 2, 2015)

Congrats on the purchase, and it looks like you're off to a running start.



wrmiller said:


> I cringe every time someone comes on here and asks the members to 'pick a machine for me'.



Well, the noise and confusion that 20 different people bring to the discussion helps more than you could possibly realize. I don't know how you each got into this hobby,  if you are a retired professional machinist, are a relative of one, or you figured this all out long ago, but for me, stepping into it with absolutely no knowledge is beyond daunting. There's so much to learn and consider before purchasing a first machine - and a zillion things you probably can't learn until you have one.

I'm in the process of building a garage, so for the first time in my life, I'll have an actual shop that isn't a basement corner or spare bedroom, and adding metalworking machines is pretty high on my list. I started out looking at Grizzly's 8x16 and 10x22 - little benchtop machines to get my feet wet, and reading lots of forum posts and getting tons of opinions led me to scouring Craigslist looking at Clausing 1301's and wondering just how big a Warner & Swasey #3 turret lathe is - and if I want to sacrifice that much floor space along with a Bridgeport. So the basic questions like _What are you going to use it for_ and _How much do you want to spend _are a little irrelevant to me. As a hobby, I'm fairly aware that it's going to suck up a ton of money and I'm fine with that. I have no idea what I'm going to make, because I don't know what I can make yet. I have a half dozen little widgets in mind, but I'm more interested in learning and expanding on what's possible.

If this was a woodworking forum and people were asking how to get started, even without a shop, I'd be able to add to the discussion what to buy first and which saws are crap because I grew up under the wing of a master woodworker. If we're talking welding, my knowledge there put me through college and beyond. I have maybe 40 hours total on a lathe and mill, so pretty much I defer to you guys for judgement. If someone went on Minnesota's Craigslist or on an industrial machine dealer's site, found me a solid lathe, and said "hey young buck, go buy this here lathe right now," I wouldn't - because my garage doesn't have a roof yet. But in 2-3 months if it's still available, I would, no questions asked.


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## wrmiller (Dec 2, 2015)

What you can't quantify is the quality of the opinions, because you have no idea who is espousing them. For example, asking a professional machinist for machine recommendations for a guy making parts for his R/C cars could be a waste of time because of the 'get the biggest you can afford' and other responses that are oftentimes parroted by those who don't formulate their responses to the context of the original question. So a guy who could have been perfectly happy with a Sherline lathe and mill is now being told he needs 3 tons of old iron. Really? What is worse is the guy who 'read a lot of stuff on the internet' and is now offering suggestions based on nothing other than that?

It takes a lot more effort/work to do your own research on any given subject, and while many are not inclined to do so in this current climate of instant gratification, the return on investment will be much greater.


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## Doc Whoops (Dec 2, 2015)

You do bring up a good point, we're all anonymous on the internet and being a newcomer, I don't know who each of you are yet. Other than post history, and looking up what you've shared, I can't know who you are if you've never divulged it. It also goes without saying that the singular opinion is often flawed. My own areas of expertise aren't rock solid, and I've been known to be wrong on occasion.

I do have faith in the community, not this one specifically, but anywhere that like minded people gather and discuss ideas. Where one person is wrong, there's 3 more to correct him, 5 with alternate strategies, 1 old timer to explain why they won't work, and 2 more to argue if and why he was wrong in the first place. As a collective whole, I've seen this happen many times over in hundreds of situations, and usually it pans out in the end. There's also the attention seekers and guys who like to hear themselves talk, but you have to be right occasionally in order to keep talking.

The R/C guy in your example probably wouldn't head here first, he'd be talking with other R/C makers, then possibly the Sherline forums on this site and others, and maybe finally dropping in here to weigh in. He's got a singular purpose, and there's communities out there for him. Guys like me who don't have a dedicated purpose in mind, just random prototyping parts with small production runs and a fascination of the craft, there's a lot of stuff to consider, most of which we don't know until we really get going.

And the main problem with getting started here is the first step is a doozy. If we're skipping over the 7x's and tiny hobby lathes, we're dropping a grand or three on a first machine, either a new import or a used behemoth. Wanting to get one that we won't regret is only natural. What you see is lack of research or instant gratification is merely an appeal to the community. Research is definitely being done alongside it, there's probably much more information floating out there about these old machines then there was when they were new. If you think back 40-50 years ago, there was a few books, a catalog, a salesman, and local machinists you worked alongside of - they told you which you needed and that's the one you got. Nowadays there's the same old books, newer books about modifying and restoration, lots of websites, new vs old machine debates, and countless posts all discussing particular machines, some written by guys who have wrestled with them for decades. But all the research in the world can't beat a few dozen words of encouragement or dismissal from a guy who has used or owned that machine, or has been a machinist for far longer than you've been alive.


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## wrmiller (Dec 2, 2015)

Doc Whoops said:


> But all the research in the world can't beat a few dozen words of encouragement or dismissal from a guy who has used or owned that machine, or has been a machinist for far longer than you've been alive.



We'll agree to disagree on this one. 

Best of luck in your search.


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## maker of things (Dec 3, 2015)

Doc Whoops said:


> Guys like me who don't have a dedicated purpose in mind, just random prototyping parts with small production runs and a fascination of the craft, there's a lot of stuff to consider, most of which we don't know until we really get going.


  To me, that is the big problem for anyone wanting to get started into machining, for the sake of machining.  I don't believe anyone really can make fair suggestions to another person, that they don't even know, as to what machine will be "the best". Doubly so if the question asker does not have a clear goal.  This is in no way intended to to be denigrating, negative or personal towards Doc. I have gone/am going through, the same kind of process.  I bet a large number of people coming to this forum are in the same situation.  I want to make things, but I won't know what they are until that day comes.
  I think how difficult it is for someone who has been a great amount of experience machining to offer advice to a noob that doesn't know what they want to do.  If you ask that same person, how do I make a 1 2 3 block, they can list off the specific machines, tools and processes that they have experience with, or could conceive using to accomplish that goal.  
  Also if you specifically ask what experience people have had with X machine, people who have used them can offer input as to whether it worked for them or not.  If you say, "I'm really enjoy shooting and am thinking about smithing some of my own parts".  Now there is context for people to offer suggestions based on what they used that worked/didn't work for them. 
  When you don't have a specific goal of parts to be machined, I don't know if there is better blanket advice than get the most substantial machine your budget and space allow.  That's basically what I have been doing.  I started out with a Jet 9x20 because I got a good deal on it, used it for a couple years and learned what it was realistically capable of, and that I desired to do things that was not reasonable to ask of it.  Now I have a PM-1440 E Large Bore and it is capable of more than I am at this point (and I have to park my truck outside).  Is there anything wrong with the 9x20 class lathe?  Nope, plenty of people do highly precision high quality work on them. 
  Start you own thread and tell us: What is your budget?  What hobbies or neighbors do you have that might utilize machined parts? Do you have ready access to material? What is your shop space (going to be) like; floor type, ceiling height, dedicated or shared space, electrical service etc.  A brief accounting of your experience with welding and wood working machines.  If you really like the idea of restoring old machines, specify that and make sure to let people know your locality.  I'm sure that you will get some very good input.


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## kingmt01 (Dec 3, 2015)

I didn't know what I wanted getting into this. I have uncles that own & run a family shop that I was talking to about machines I had in mind for getting my feet wet. One told me not to mess with them because they were to small. Another told me he'd like to have that size at home to do small projects. The other one just keep saying it really depends on what your going to be doing. Well I bought the small machines & found they were pretty useless to me so I replaced the lathe 2 years ago & my replacement mill is on the way. I'm pretty happy with my lathe now even tho I still run into times I can't do certain jobs. The mill I ordered isn't exactly what I wanted but I will make it get by until I can add the feature of glass scale DRO I couldn't afford right now. I will build a cheap Android DRO for it like I did my current mill. It looks like I can put glass scales on it cheaper then it would have been to order it with them anyhow.

Anyhow I'm saying there is good advise to be received if you know which ones to listen to. I didn't hurt myself getting small machines to figure out a few things first & the first mills tooling can be used on the new mill so that helps also. I still get a little use out of the tying 7x10 lathe also but it is rare. I only use it when I'm working right beside of it & I just need to spin something that doesn't need accuracy.

This OP gave us some idea what he would be doing tho.


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## maker of things (Dec 4, 2015)

Kingmt01 that is an excellent example of what I think of as a fairly common progression.  You even had people that would have some idea what you might do, and got three different opinions of how to start. 

 zboss86 has long since purchased a lathe and started a new thread, I was replying to Doc Whoops (not the OP).


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## kingmt01 (Dec 4, 2015)

Yelp. I seen the picture of the lathe he bought. I was just conversating.


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