# Run 200V motor on 220V power?



## trg-s338 (May 27, 2014)

Just given an Iwaki Magnet Pump MD 30 R - 200N, Japanese motor.  Motor plate says 200V, 1 phase 60 Hz, 0.44A continuous, power consumption 80W, capacitor run induction motor. No external appendages to show capacitor (assuming then that it is internal?).  I'd like to run this pump on a homebuilt TIG water cooler I'm putting together.  Will this pump run on 220V single phase without issues or do I have to step down the power input to 200 V somehow?  I would appreciate suggestions on how to step down if its necessary to do so. Thanks.


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## countryguy (May 27, 2014)

I found this article and there is an included image for a inexpensive dimmer circuit. 
http://www.edaboard.com/thread229648.html

I gotta say, I think it would be fine as 220AC which probably falls into some % of acceptable range.  If you measure and get say 218Vac you are 18V over and about 8% diff.   ?  But the Dimmer is the best idea I noted online. 



trg-s338 said:


> Just given an Iwaki Magnet Pump MD 30 R - 200N, Japanese motor.  Motor plate says 200V, 1 phase 60 Hz, 0.44A continuous, power consumption 80W.  I'd like to run this pump on a homebuilt TIG water cooler I'm putting together.  Will this pump run on 220V single phase without issues or do I have to step down the power input to 200 V somehow?  I would appreciate suggestions on how to step down if its necessary to do so. Thanks.


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## trg-s338 (May 27, 2014)

Wow!  Thank you for the rapid and helpful reply, Countryguy.  Much appreciated.  I'll consider the motordimmer approach as you recommend and it's cheap enough on eBay.


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## Bradrock (May 27, 2014)

I would like to see the pump you are going to use. I'm building a cooler also & don't want to spend $200.00 on a pro-con pump.

Thanks,  Brad


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## trg-s338 (May 27, 2014)

Apparently, this pump is often used in large salt water aquarium applications.  For this application, it is way overkill in flow rate.  I will have to figure out and plumb a lot of bypass "overflow" into the system.  It will likely be energy inefficient and wasteful but it is what I have at the right price (free?) and don't anticipate extended period use. If you punch it up on the web, you'll come up with way better pictures than I could post seeing as I don't yet know how to do that at this point.  The pump is magnetically connected to the motor so no shaft seals involved, that's nice.  The cooler part I'm using is a Honda Goldwing? radiator with a fan.  Don't really know how well the whole gizmo will work but I'm just cobbling the thing together to see if it works since these are parts on hand and I didn't have to shell any bucks yet.


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## dulltool17 (Jun 1, 2014)

trg-s338 said:


> Just given an Iwaki Magnet Pump MD 30 R - 200N, Japanese motor.  Motor plate says 200V, 1 phase 60 Hz, 0.44A continuous, power consumption 80W, capacitor run induction motor. No external appendages to show capacitor (assuming then that it is internal?).  I'd like to run this pump on a homebuilt TIG water cooler I'm putting together.  Will this pump run on 220V single phase without issues or do I have to step down the power input to 200 V somehow?  I would appreciate suggestions on how to step down if its necessary to do so. Thanks.




Typically, these small mag-drive pumps have motors that will run on +/- 10%  of nominal nameplate voltage.  Probably alright on 218-219 VAC.  Most homes never really have the full 220V anyway.  I would recommend that you check your line voltage and decide from there.

I build chillers for a living, and use everything from Procon pumps to large centrifugals; while I don't directly use Iwaki, I'm at least familiar with them.  Most of our mag-drive pumps are now DC motor-driven, which requires a DC power supply.

The dimmer approach isn't really costly, so if you are at high line, it is a simple way to get the 200V you need.  


I'd love to see a pic of your completed system.  Good luck!


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## JimDawson (Jun 1, 2014)

One note on these small mag drive pumps.  They tend to decouple under full load.  Full load in this case, is no back pressure on the outlet side.  Rather than bypassing the excess flow, just throttle it with a valve.  This may be a little bit counter intuitive, but this actually puts less load on the pump and is true for all centrifugal pumps.  The inverse is true for positive displacement pumps.


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