# New South Bend 8k- Collet & Dro Recommendations



## MSD0 (Apr 23, 2015)

Hi, new to the forum so hopefully this hasn't been asked before. I'm looking at the new South Bend 8K lathe and wanted to know what kind of collets can be used with this lathe. Not sure if a collet closer can be used as well, but would like to be able to pass material through the bore. I would also like to install a DRO so any recommendations would be great.
Thanks


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## wrmiller (Apr 23, 2015)

I've not seen a collet closer for the 8k, and when I was considering collets I just figured that a Bison collet chuck would be the way I'd go. As for the DRO, I considered this as well but given the size of the lathe I couldn't figure out how to conveniently get a glass scale on the cross slide. You could probably go with the smaller magnetic scales that many here use.


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## MSD0 (Apr 23, 2015)

wrmiller19 said:


> I've not seen a collet closer for the 8k, and when I was considering collets I just figured that a Bison collet chuck would be the way I'd go. As for the DRO, I considered this as well but given the size of the lathe I couldn't figure out how to conveniently get a glass scale on the cross slide. You could probably go with the smaller magnetic scales that many here use.


Thanks for the info. I was looking at the magnetic scales that dropro sells and apparently they can be cut to length.


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## wrmiller (Apr 23, 2015)

Three of my machines have DroPros dros on them, with the mills having glass scales and the 1340 having magnetic. I went magnetic on the lathe because I may someday use coolant on it and the magnetic scales aren't bothered by it. What I didn't know was how much smaller the magnetics are compared to the glass. And yes the magnetic scales can be cut to any length you want.


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## MSD0 (Apr 24, 2015)

wrmiller19 said:


> Three of my machines have DroPros dros on them, with the mills having glass scales and the 1340 having magnetic. I went magnetic on the lathe because I may someday use coolant on it and the magnetic scales aren't bothered by it. What I didn't know was how much smaller the magnetics are compared to the glass. And yes the magnetic scales can be cut to any length you want.


Sounds like magnetic scales are the way to go on a small lathe. Btw, how do you like the 8K? We are currently using a MicroMark 7 x 16" and hope something like the 8K will be an improvement. I am also considering the PM 11X 27", but would have a hard time fitting something that size in our "shop" (office suite on the 4th floor).


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## wrmiller (Apr 24, 2015)

I really like this lathe, and have done good work on it, but that is just my biased opinion. Big step up from the 7 series with respect to quality, rigidity and capacity (I've owned two of the 7" series over the years). I can get better finishes on smaller parts on this lathe than I can on my larger one. If you are needing to work on larger things outside of it's work envelope and/or will do a lot of facing or threading this may not be a good choice. But then the 11x27 won't be either, unless you don't mind changing gears/belts frequently. Now that I have the larger lathe I will be setting my 8k up to be more of a 'second op' type lathe.


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## MSD0 (Apr 24, 2015)

wrmiller19 said:


> I really like this lathe, and have done good work on it, but that is just my biased opinion. Big step up from the 7 series with respect to quality, rigidity and capacity (I've owned two of the 7" series over the years). I can get better finishes on smaller parts on this lathe than I can on my larger one. If you are needing to work on larger things outside of it's work envelope and/or will do a lot of facing or threading this may not be a good choice. But then the 11x27 won't be either, unless you don't mind changing gears/belts frequently. Now that I have the larger lathe I will be setting my 8k up to be more of a 'second op' type lathe.


We just need something that will hold tight tolerances on small parts and prototypes so I think the South Bend will do the job. Thanks for all the help.


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## wrmiller (Apr 24, 2015)

Tight tolerances on small parts and prototypes are what I use it for. 

I would suggest a set-tru type 3 jaw chuck or a 5c collet chuck as upgrades as well. I'm running a 5" 3 jaw BTC set-tru, and am looking at adding a collet chuck soon.


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## MSD0 (Apr 24, 2015)

Any recommendations on a collet chuck? I've seen a few from Shars with an integrated D1-3 cam lock and can't tell if it will bolt directly on or if a back plate is needed.


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## wrmiller (Apr 24, 2015)

Just me personally, but I'd step up to a Bison if you can afford it. If the Shars chuck says it's d1-3 then it's ready to mount as-is. If it's a plain-back then a mounting plate will be required.


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## MSD0 (Apr 25, 2015)

Thanks, I'll take a look at the Bison chucks. I'm not that concerned with the cost, just want to get something that was will work well and doesn't require additional machining. This is the first time I've had to spec out a machine so most of this is new to me.


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## wrmiller (Apr 25, 2015)

My reasoning for my suggestion is that too often people get a decent machine, spec-wise, then go cheap on the (to me) critical things like chucks, centers, and tooling. Makes no sense to me. I have no personal experience with the Shars chuck, however I do buy quite a few things from them and have been pleased with their cost to performance, but wouldn't be surprised if it needed 'tweaking' to get it properly set up. A little OT, but I recently purchased my PM1340GT and decided to suffer the up-front pain and go with a Pratt Burnered (English made) 3 jaw set-tru chuck. Very expensive for a hobbyist like myself but I wanted to buy one chuck that will hopefully be the last three jaw that I buy for this lathe. No setup required, just install and run. (I did verify with a DTI after install though) 

I don't think they make a 5" for the little SB and I personally wouldn't swing anything larger on that small a lathe so I suggested my next best choice, the Bison. I've used their chucks and have had good experiences with them. They actually spec the TIR on their collet chuck if I recall correctly and you don't have to machine a back plate as it's part of the chuck.


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## MSD0 (Apr 25, 2015)

Definitely agree on not skimping out on the tooling, etc. I don't have a huge budget, but better to buy something good once. I'm also looking for a nice tool holder. Any recommendations?


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## wrmiller (Apr 25, 2015)

MSD0 said:


> Definitely agree on not skimping out on the tooling, etc. I don't have a huge budget, but better to buy something good once. I'm also looking for a nice tool holder. Any recommendations?



I have an Aloris AXA on my 8k. Costs more than the imports but I don't regret it a bit. Here's a pic showing the lathe with it installed.


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## MSD0 (Apr 25, 2015)

Nice setup. Are those drip oilers on the spindle? That toolpost is pretty much what I was looking for. Did you have to modify the compound in order to mount it? Thanks again for all your help. There's not a lot of information out there on the new South Bend lathes. Planning on placing an order on Monday. Next on the list is a new bench or small knee mill to replace our Harbor Freight mini mill.


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## wrmiller (Apr 26, 2015)

MSD0 said:


> Nice setup. Are those drip oilers on the spindle? That toolpost is pretty much what I was looking for. Did you have to modify the compound in order to mount it? Thanks again for all your help. There's not a lot of information out there on the new South Bend lathes. Planning on placing an order on Monday. Next on the list is a new bench or small knee mill to replace our Harbor Freight mini mill.



I added the drip oilers for the spindle bearings to replace the zerk(?) fittings. I run this little guy at fairly high rpm on many small parts (lack of spindle speed and too small spindle bore killed picking the new 10k) and these make it very easy to give the bearings a quick shot in the middle of a job without having to stop and grab a oil can. 

The Aloris required no mods to the compound. I made a different mounting bolt so I didn't have to.

A decent mill that would compliment the capabilities of this lathe would be either the new PM25 mill or the Griz G0695 IMO. (I almost pulled the trigger on the 695 until I realized it might be too small for some things I want to do) You could go bigger on the mill choice but I always thought that having balance between your machines matters. It probably doesn't to most.


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## MSD0 (Apr 26, 2015)

I am also looking at the 10K as well, but can't get over the small spindle bore. It does look like a more substantial machine, but also a lot more expensive. The Grizzly G0695 is probably what I'm going to go with. I just need to make some room for it. Should be a big improvement over the bench top one we have now.


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## wrmiller (Apr 26, 2015)

MSD0 said:


> I am also looking at the 10K as well, but can't get over the small spindle bore. It does look like a more substantial machine, but also a lot more expensive. The Grizzly G0695 is probably what I'm going to go with. I just need to make some room for it. Should be a big improvement over the bench top one we have now.



Compared to a mini-mill? A huge understatement...  

I really, really wanted the 10k but balked because of the really slow max spindle rpm and through hole. I suppose I could have thrown a VFD or BLDC at it, but not at that price. Now if they had dropped the price by 2-2.5k I might have done it. But now I have the bigger lathe so it's no longer needed.


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## MSD0 (Apr 27, 2015)

Thanks for your help. Going to place any order in the next couple of days.


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