# 1236 Operational Questions



## outsider347 (Dec 11, 2017)

Just Powered up my new 1236 and a have a couple dumb a$$ questions that I hate to bother Matt with

The indicator lamp remains on all the time????
I know that the main breaker is in back inside the control box....is this the only way to "power down" the machine other than pulling the plug??

Foot Brake.
I guess that I was under the impression that when the foot brake was depressed that the spindle stopped dead ???


Edit: Just looked at the schematic...answered my own questions


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## Dabbler (Dec 11, 2017)

please, a 1236 what?


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## outsider347 (Dec 11, 2017)

PM 1236 Lathe


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## Dabbler (Dec 11, 2017)

thanks.


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## wrmiller (Dec 12, 2017)

I am not familiar with that particular PM lathe, but none of the lathes I've worked with above a 7 or 8" have an on/off switch. That is why I have a switch on the 240v outlets for my 935 and 1340.


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## scattermaster (Dec 12, 2017)

I'm still waiting for my PM1236 to come across the big pond but I have the owners manual to keep me pacified...
  I never noticed until you brought it up but you are correct!
 Dang, now I need to wire in a switch.  I don't want to leave it powered up all the time.  (and maybe a locking switch to make sure I'm the only kid that gets to play with my toys...


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## gman10259 (Dec 12, 2017)

Your E-Stop Should Kill power to the Lathe. Your foot brake should stop the spindle immediately.


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## scattermaster (Dec 13, 2017)

E stop will kill power to the spindle but the power light will stay on.
 You can see all of this in the schematic in the manual


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## outsider347 (Dec 13, 2017)

Yep I realized this when I looked at the schematic


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## scattermaster (Dec 13, 2017)

I wonder why  they wouldn't have a real on and off power switch like most other home devices.
 ??
 Oh well,  it is what it is.


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## wrmiller (Dec 13, 2017)

While small(er) 110v hobby lathes and mills have switches and cords on them when bought, I've not seen a 220v machine ever come with a cord. Probably because installation for said machines varies depending on if it's going into a manufacturing/commercial site, or if it's being hard-wired, or what type of plug will be used, etc.. If I were in that position, I wouldn't be shipping a cord/plug with the machines either.


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## ttabbal (Dec 13, 2017)

220V appliances usually don't come with cords either. They claim it is because of the various plug types in use, no common standard. So I wouldn't be surprised that a shop tool doesn't. I would think a switch would be included, but perhaps they expect that if you want one, you can add one easily enough, and you already have to deal with the wiring, so they have a point...


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## ConValSam (Dec 13, 2017)

Somewhere on PM's site it specifically says (a cursory search just now did not yield the exact spot) that the 1236 and larger lathes are all built for full time use.  They also warn against using the 1228 lathe I bought full time. If memory serves it is because the 1236 and larger have hardened gears in both the drive train and QC gearbox.

Long way around to say I am not surprised there is no power switch; one would expect a disconnect nearby in most commercial shops.


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## ConValSam (Dec 13, 2017)

You could mount one of these in a modest enclosure at the back of the lathe.


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## scattermaster (Dec 13, 2017)

ConValSam said:


> Somewhere on PM's site it specifically says (a cursory search just now did not yield the exact spot) that the 1236 and larger lathes are all built for full time use.  They also warn against using the 1228 lathe I bought full time. If memory serves it is because the 1236 and larger have hardened gears in both the drive train and QC gearbox.
> 
> Long way around to say I am not surprised there is no power switch; one would expect a disconnect nearby in most commercial shops.


  That said, 
  I'm buying one hell of a toy!
 I don't plan on doing much of anything but fooling around in my retirement years soon to come.  It should last me the rest of my life...
  I guess the 1st thing to tinker with will be a master power switch.


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## Z2V (Dec 13, 2017)

I hard wired mine into a single breaker box mounted to the wall at the end of the lathe, within reach of the controls. Gets turned off if I walk away from the machine


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## outsider347 (Dec 13, 2017)

Plan to buy this tomorrow

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Square-D-30-Amp-Fusible-Metallic-Disconnect/3365260


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## Z2V (Dec 13, 2017)

I would rather had that disconnect but HD didn’t have one and I didn’t feel like going Lowes.


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## ch2co (Dec 14, 2017)

For my baby lathe I hardwired it from the breaker box (Home Depot) through a switch to the 2 to 3 phase inverter to the 3 phase 1HP motor. Everything is well grounded.  When I turn off the lathe there is still power to the system unless I purposefully shut it down at the breaker box. Usually only at the end of the day.


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## HBilly1022 (Dec 14, 2017)

My King 12 x 36 lathe had the same system, ie the light would stay on when I turned the power switch to off. I rewired it so that the light goes out when I turn the switch off. I like having the visual confirmation that the lathe can't run, If I'm changing chucks or gears for metric threading. If I go into the control panel I just unplug the lathe from the wall plug.


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## SSage (Dec 15, 2017)

You can get used 480 volt heavy duty disconnects off eBay for $25, I just bought one for my surface grinder's phase converter. I have a few commercial rated 400 and 600 amp disconnects around the shop, overrated but they last a long time under daily use. For right now my PM1236 is wired direct to my breaker box, I may add a disconnect some day. But, my breaker box is near the shop door, so no biggie.

My father bought a 2 hp on/off switch for a 2 hp belt grinder project. We are going to try using this one mounted to a wood bench, its rated 20 amps at 220 volts.: https://www.ebay.com/itm/142490505911

The PM1236 foot brake engages an actual brake with brake shoes, it cuts the power and mechanically stops it quick. Something needs adjustment. Mine stops quick when I tested it. Just get the bar adjusted where it just touches the switch, you don't need to bend the little arm. Just enough to hear it click. If the brake doesn't halt things the problem will be obvious, its a stone simple design.


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## outsider347 (Dec 18, 2017)

My 1236 does not stop instantly when the foot brake is used. Spindle coasts to a stop, the same when the chuck cover is opened...brake & cover sw.  NC in the same circut

I don't see a brake device in the schematic ????

Confused!!!


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## JimDawson (Dec 18, 2017)

outsider347 said:


> My 1236 does not stop instantly when the foot brake is used. Spindle coasts to a stop, the same when the chuck cover is opened...brake & cover sw.  NC in the same circut
> 
> I don't see a brake device in the schematic ????
> 
> Confused!!!



If yours is like my 13x40, it has a mechanical brake.  The brake drum is inside the gear train cover.  Mine was never connected, supposed to have a cable or lever on it to actuate, I forget which.


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## outsider347 (Dec 18, 2017)

so the cable/lever...  should be attached to foot pedal assy?


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## SSage (Dec 18, 2017)

outsider347 said:


> so the cable/lever...  should be attached to foot pedal assy?



If you have the foot brake option, there are 3 "draw bars" in total connecting the foot pedal to the brake and kill switch. See page 2 for a pic and pages 37/ 38 of the latest manual for the "Stand and Coolant Components". I only had to attach the link bar between the upper and lower bars. The manual I downloaded off here had clear instructions. I tweaked the adjustment set screws so the kill switch was not over pushed, it took a couple tweaks of the set screws down by the pedal shaft and spring.


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## Bob Korves (Dec 19, 2017)

The linkage to the brake has to be attached when the lathe is installed to the base .  The pedal is part of the base and the brake is part of the lathe.  The two need to be connected so the linkage is complete.   It sounds like the motor is shutting off but the brake is not being applied.


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## outsider347 (Dec 19, 2017)

Yep. I thought that followed the instructions correctly . The linkage does not over drive the micro sw arm.
So if the brake is mechanical, do I need to press harder on the foot pedal to operate the brake?

Going out the my shop after dinner today to look at all of this again.
Tks for comments Gents


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## outsider347 (Dec 19, 2017)

Fixed it.
 Foot pedal was bottomed out........ Re adj....works as it should
Tks Gents


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## Mitch Alsup (Dec 19, 2017)

scattermaster said:


> I'm still waiting for my PM1236 to come across the big pond but I have the owners manual to keep me pacified...
> I never noticed until you brought it up but you are correct!
> Dang, now I need to wire in a switch.  I don't want to leave it powered up all the time.  (and maybe a locking switch to make sure I'm the only kid that gets to play with my toys...



Let's say something happens while you are alone in your shop and the person showing up at your shop to help you knows nothing about machinery.
Having a switch with a big red button with the word STOP written in large letters will help them get you the help they can give.

Every 220V outlet in my shop has a
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...ea3-5248-b024-f997c3d7c9eb&pf_rd_i=6369371011
between the panel and the socket.

I use these to cut all power nightly.

ETA:: My point is that you really do want that switch anyway.


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## SSage (Dec 19, 2017)

You don't really need a power disconnect or extra switch. I put each of the 220 volt machines on a dedicated circuit, when I'm done using the lathe I just flip the breaker off. 

Having a sub-panel in the shop is my solution, having a breaker panel in the same room as the equipment is ideal. When you leave the lathe for a while press the stop switch and lift the chuck guard to keep someone from bumping into the motor lever.

Make sure you leave plenty of room to the rear, the electrial panel is in back. You need access to the breakers on the lathe also, I've had to reset mine twice so far when it was cold in the shop. I put mine a little too close, I'm going to slide it away from the wall more someday. I think I'll try 3' next time, I'm a big guy and 2' is a squeeze.


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## Mitch Alsup (Dec 19, 2017)

SSage said:


> You don't really need a power disconnect or extra switch. I put each of the 220 volt machines on a dedicated circuit, when I'm done using the lathe I just flip the breaker off.



Which would be great, if the breaker box (i.e., panel) was not outside and around the corner of the shop in rain and snow.


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## SSage (Dec 19, 2017)

Install a sub panel inside, thats what we did. Got a used 200 amp Square D panel mounted by the door, it was full of breakers too. Check craigs list and eBay for used panels. Makes it easy to add more circuits in the shop, you feed it with one large cable, cuts down on multiple long runs of smaller wire. Since installing the shop panel my 80 gallon compressor starts much quicker. Less line loss for sure, easy access to the breakers inside the shop. The local electric company engineer and an electrician friend helped us with the design and wire sizes. We upgraded the house power too, running the electric clothes dryer, air conditioning, a lathe and an air compressor etc. at the same time was really taxing the original house breaker. Our power company hooked up additional meter can for zero cost, they charged us nothing for the upgrade. We now have two 200 amp meters/breakers feeding the house on separate cables from the transformer. We were maxing out the cable from the pole. The monthly added meter fee is cheap. Now we can add a pool and sauna someday! We don't pull the house lights down when the compressor kicks on anymore. I was expecting the power co to charge for install but, they even set a new pole and cleared brush for free. The house service is all new, they disconnected us for about an hour to run new cables to the new pole. Maybe its a rural thing, we live out in the sticks.


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## Bob Korves (Dec 19, 2017)

Circuit breakers are not designed for being switched often.  They will often wear out and fail relatively quickly when operated often.  The physical flexing can also be damaging to the breaker connections to the bus bars.  Let the breakers do the simple job they do so well and add a proper switch downstream for switching loads on and off regularly.


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## Fallon (Dec 19, 2017)

There are breakers that are rated to be used as switches as well as breakers. Don't remember the letter designation offhand.

Not a big deal if you use a breaker as a switch at the machine if there is a proper breaker panel upstream. If the "switch" wears out just replace it. If your primary circuit protection wears out that can be problematic.


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## Muskt (Dec 19, 2017)

I have always been kinda-sorta anal about electricity & fire.  I have each of my 220 machines near a dedicated 220 outlet.  When I use the lathe (PM1236), I plug it in.  When I am done, I unplug it.  Same for the mill (PM932).  With my welders & plasma cutter, only one can be plugged in at a time.  I have a shared  (single) 220 outlet for my 2x72 grinder and/or my big air compressor--Only one at a time.  

My PM1236 has been modded to a VFD & 3phase motor.  I don't even have the light anymore.  I don't need it, since I unplug it every night or at the completion of every use.

Jerry in Delaware


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## ACHiPo (Dec 19, 2017)

Nothing like having an EMO (emergency off) handy.  Wished I had one when I heard the crunching sound in the quick change gear box.


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## SSage (Dec 22, 2017)

My breakers have held up fine. I don't use cheap residential grade stuff though.


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## Gerry (Dec 22, 2017)

I have a PM-1340. Because of my shop size I left only 20" between it and the wall. 24" would have been better but 36" would have been wasting valuable shop space. My headstock is  24" from a different wall and I sometimes wish that I had 36" gap there. In fact I wish that my shop layout would have allowed me to have the tailstock to the wall instead of the headstock..

I used my lathe for years without the brake and switch being functional. About the only time I use the brake is when I am using a tap with my tailstock to tap something held in the chuck.

One thing that bothers me about my lathe, though-mounting the chuck with the D1-4 setup is not as accurate as I think it should be. When the chuck is mounted it rest on the cone in the headstock shaft it leaves a gap all the way around between the chuck and the flange on the headstock shaft. That allows the chuck to pivot on the cone throwing the chuck out of true. Its like the cone on the headstock is slightly too big or it's mating cones on all my chucks is slightly too small. Just have not worked up the nerve to reduce the headstock cone ever so slightly of fear of going too far.

Been almost 10 years since I bought my PM-1340 from Matt but have been totally pleased with it and the service from Matt. I hope you are as pleased with yours as I am with mine.


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## Bob Korves (Dec 22, 2017)

Gerry said:


> One thing that bothers me about my lathe, though-mounting the chuck with the D1-4 setup is not as accurate as I think it should be. When the chuck is mounted it rest on the cone in the headstock shaft it leaves a gap all the way around between the chuck and the flange on the headstock shaft. That allows the chuck to pivot on the cone throwing the chuck out of true. Its like the cone on the headstock is slightly too big or it's mating cones on all my chucks is slightly too small. Just have not worked up the nerve to reduce the headstock cone ever so slightly of fear of going too far.


That is very common and can be addressed.  First, find out where it is rubbing and where it is not.  You can use high spot blue, Canode scraping ink, or just a Sharpie to mark it up, then install and remove the chuck carefully.  Look closely for where it is currently making contact.  The angle is very small, and the contact area is also very small, so you must be careful to not remove very much at a time, and only where you see it rubbing hardest.  It will go faster than you think it will, do not get carried away.  This does not need a fancy machining setup, some 220 grit paper rolled around a stick will do the work.  Just go slowly and carefully, and only remove material where it is currently rubbing hard.  The fit will gradually improve.  Continue until you can seat the chuck (or whatever) with no light passing through the spindle to back plate junction.  Use a bright light behind it to check for gaps around the full revolution.  It must end up tight on the register, and tight against the spindle, with no side play, at the same time.  If you go too far, you will get lateral runout, a bad thing.  If you do not go far enough, your cone leaning error will continue.  When you are done, check all three mounting positions for the best one, accuracy wise, and then mark the chuck and spindle so you can mount it the same every time.


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