# Another Clausing 8530 milling machine



## outboardguy44 (Feb 16, 2015)

Good afternoon, just reporting the activation of another veteran Clausing mill. A fellow antique outboard collector/friend of mine has had this for several years and I always told him if he ever decided to sell it, I wanted to know about it. Always thought it would be the perfect mill to fit my hobby, budget, and workspace. When he called me a few weeks back and said he'd let the Clausing go, it didn't take long to decide to go and retrieve it.





Other than washing off a healthy layer of grime/protective coating, I didn't do much to it cosmetically. Mechanically, it needed the upper spindle bearing replaced, the fine-feed mechanism needed a gear repaired, and I didn't get a handwheel with the machine (cobbled one up out of brass stock and a handle off an antique Husqvarna sewing machine). For power, I switched the motor over to run on household current instead of 220v until I get around to having a 220v outlet installed down there.

Oh yeah - speaking of wiring, I've run into what seems to be somewhat of a common problem, inasmuch as I can't figure out how to wire this damn thing up to run in reverse. I've looked at wiring diagrams until my eyes were crossed, and nothing quite matches up with the motor I have, which is an Emerson 3/4 hp dual voltage 7-lead thermally protected motor that is reversible. Every diagram I look at lists at least one colour wire that doesn't match what I have, and I hate making assumptions that one can be exchanged for the other.....Just my luck eh. Oh well, I'll get it eventually..... meanwhile, it runs in forward just fine.

As you can see, I'm using the vise off my Atlas shaper until I get a proper milling machine vise...  I could have done a better job of clamping the Atlas if I'd taken the base off. One thing I can see with this mill is I'll be limited to a vise of 12-13 inches or less overall length, otherwise I have difficulty seeing/using the dial on the y-axis handle.

Best,
T2


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## 34_40 (Feb 16, 2015)

Nice piece.. good luck with it.   Soon you'll be wondering how you ever got along without it! LOL..


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## JPigg55 (Feb 18, 2015)

Sources for a lot of the things you need are listed on this site for the 8520, but same parts I believe. www.wentztech.com
Hard to ell, but from the pictures it looks as if the motor and wiring were replaced at some point.
If you need help with the wiring, post some pictures of the drum switch connections and the motor connections. Should be able to help you out.


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## rock_breaker (Feb 19, 2015)

Neat machine! Enjoy

Ray


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## outboardguy44 (Feb 21, 2015)

JPigg55 said:


> Hard to ell, but from the pictures it looks as if the motor and wiring were replaced at some point.
> If you need help with the wiring, post some pictures of the drum switch connections and the motor connections. Should be able to help you out.



OK, here are some pictures of my electrical stuff. You're correct, the motor has been replaced, the wiring probably not original either. I did replace the lead from the switch to the motor, so I now have 4 wires between motor and switch. I should be able to figure this out on my own, but obviously I'm not educated well enough in electrical work to be able to make the reversing part work. Thanks for any input you can provide.

Best,
T2


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## Terrywerm (Feb 22, 2015)

Can you look inside the cover of your drum switch to see if there is a schematic for the drum switch in there?  If so, take a pic and post it, as drum switches come in a variety of applications and layouts.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Feb 22, 2015)

The red and black should be the start windings ( from the bit on the motor that says to change direction swap the red and black wires). Also a couple of slots in the switch are unpopulated - you should have 2 wires coming in from the plug and 4 wires going out to the motor (2 for the run windings and 2 for the start windings). In both forward and reverse the hot/ neutral wires and 2 run wires will be connected, but the start wires will be reversed going from one to the other. Typically the first lot are the bottom and top terminals in the switch and the middle two are the start wires.


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## wa5cab (Feb 22, 2015)

On some switches, you have to install two external jumpers to make that happen (L1 & L2 tied to the reversing contacts).  On some, the contacts are built in.  It depends somewhat on what service the switch was mainly intended for.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Feb 22, 2015)

true, some switches are way more complicated that the ones I've had experience with and I've only played with 110V motors too.


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## outboardguy44 (Feb 22, 2015)

Here's a couple of images of the diagram sheet on the inside of the switch cover.

At the moment, the switch is only wired to run the motor one direction. If I read some of the information I have correctly (a very big "if"), the switch is supposed to work so that when operating the mill, the operator pushes the lever away from him to run it in forward, and pulls the lever back towards the front of the machine to reverse it.

As of right now, the switch only works by pulling the lever toward the front of the machine. I had to switch the black & red wires around on the motor for it to run in forward that way.

Terry for what its worth, I did print out a diagram in colour that you had posted in another thread, thanks for sharing that one.  The only problems I had with it are that a) the diagram shows a couple different coloured wires than I have, and b) I'm quite incompetent at this sort of thing.

Edit - about the only thing I *might*  have figured out WRT the wiring is that I need to use the diagram in the top left of the inside of the switch cover - 1 phase system, split-phase motor - did I at least get that right?

Best,
T2


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## mattthemuppet2 (Feb 22, 2015)

that's curious, looks like the polarity of the run windings is switched between forward and reverse. You also appear to have a capacitor start motor and I don't know how they behave compared to split phase centrifugal switched motors (the only ones I've had experience with). Other than wiring it up as the wiring diagram suggests, I think I'd better bow out before I offer incorrect advice!


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## Terrywerm (Feb 22, 2015)

Outboardguy, you need to follow the diagram in the upper left - single phase with a split phase motor.  The wiring in this case is nearly the same as the one that I had posted a while back except for some of the wire colors. The colors don't mean anything and can vary from one manufacturer to another, even model to model. The idea is to create the same wiring pattern.

The following wiring should get you the results you need:
1. Connect your 110v hot lead to terminal #2 on the switch. Connect the black lead from the motor here also.
2. Connect your neutral to terminal #6 on the switch.
3. Connect the red lead from the motor to terminal #5 on the switch.   You will also need to run a jumper between #3 and #5 on the switch.
4. Connect a wire from the #1 post on the switch to the #1 post on the motor.
5. Connect a wire from the #4 post on the switch to the #4 post on the motor.

If you run the motor it should now run in both directions, but make sure that you allow the motor to stop before starting it in the opposite direction. Split phase motors have a centrifugal switch that disconnects the start windings once the motor is running. If you have the motor running and suddenly flip the switch to run the other way, it will just keep running in the same direction that it had been.

If you find that the motor is not running the direction you want it to for the direction of the switch that is selected, you can reverse it by switching the red lead to terminal #2 on the switch and the black lead to terminal #5

The key thing to remember is that motor rotation can be reversed by swapping the two run winding leads OR by swapping the two start winding leads.  It really doesn't matter which.


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## JPigg55 (Feb 23, 2015)

Sorry Outboardguy, been working 18 hr days. Finally got a day off.

Terry is correct about the wiring.


So if my brain is working right this morning, you will have 2 wires coming in to your drum switch (hot and neutral) connected as Terry said to termials 2 & 6 respectively on the drum switch.

You will also need to run a jumper wire between drum switch terminal #3 and drum switch terminal #5.

You will have 4 wires running from the drum switch to the motor that will connect to the spade bit type connection points on the motor as follows.

Connect wire from drum switch terminal #1 to motor connector #1.
Connect wire from drum switch terminal #2 to motor connector #2.
Connect wire from drum switch terminal #4 to motor connector #4.
Connect wire from drum switch terminal #5 to motor connector #5.

Motor connector should be male spade bit type connectors. From the picture they are as follows:
#1 - Top left of motor wiring picture. The male spade bit connector appears to have a black wire connected to it. This should be the wire for the starting winding shown on the drum switch wiring diagram (terminal #2 connection) and will have to be disconnected from the motor spade bit and connected it to the wire coming from drum switch terminal #2.
#2 - Should be the male spade bit connector top center of the motor wiring picture with Red and Blue wires connected to it (connect to unused spade bit in middle).
#4 - Top right of motor wiring picture. 
#5 - Should be male spade bit connector bottom center of motor wiring picture with Black wire on it.

If this doesn't work, it's because the two black motor wires have been swapped (the ones connected at motor connections #1 and #5)
Like Tery said, if not running in direction drum switch shows, just swap wires #2 & #5 either at the drum switch or motor, shouldn't matter which.


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## outboardguy44 (Feb 23, 2015)

Ok I did try this out the way Terry described, but I've managed to not get it quite right yet. The motor will run in both directions, but is noisy and is starting to overheat. Too tired to look at any more wiring tonight so I'll give it another go tomorrow. Thanks for the assistance.

Best,
Chris S


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## JPigg55 (Feb 23, 2015)

Post a couple pics of how it's wired now. May help with what's wrong.


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## outboardguy44 (Mar 8, 2015)

Work has been a bit of a bugger lately so there's not been a lot of time to work on the mill. I finally did have another look at the wiring on this thing and only solidified my suspicions that the main problem is that I just don't know enough about how electric motors work. So, I called an acquaintance who does know about that sort of thing, and he dropped around and got me straightened out. Well, actually what he did was to install a new run of wire and outlet so I can run the lathe and mill on 220v instead of 110. This is what he installed on the machine. it's all good now. Thanks to y'all who tried to help, I do appreciate the advice that was offered.




Best,
Chris S


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## mattthemuppet2 (Mar 9, 2015)

congrats! as long as it runs properly, who cares how it got that way


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