# VFD enclosure recommendation



## cpd62 (Sep 18, 2013)

Hi,
I just got an ABB ACS-150 VFD http://www.inverterdrive.com/group/ac-inverter-drives-230v/ABB-ACS150-01E-09A8-2/) for my new drill press motor.

I have a few questions (I'm a novice)

1. It has an enclosure NEMA 1 rated.  I want to keep dust out (some here suggest NEMA 4).  Is there a way to do this without getting another box such as putting a fine mesh over the vent holes on the top and bottom?  Or can anyone recommend some generic plastic electrical boxes to mount this into?  Seems like I'd want to keep the box closed and the controls available through a sealed hole.  It looks like it's ready to be mounted and all packaged well.  It just seems like dust would easily get into the board

2.  Do I need a brake or is that optional?  It has 2 connections for that. I haven't even looked up what that is (I'm assuming a fuse connection).

3.  I've wired motors and lights but am not familiar with the nomenclature: U1/L, V1/N, W1, U2, V2, W2.  

Thanks,
Christian


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## twstoerzinger (Sep 18, 2013)

Hello Christian,
The ABB is a top-end VFD.The link you provided goes to a British supplier site. Since you are apparently in Mass, I am a little confused. However, the equipment is pretty much the same either way.

*Enclosure:* you say it is NEMA 1 rated. The basic drive comes in a plastic IP20 enclosure. The IP20 is suitable for clean environments where physical damage to the drive is unlikely. ABB really thinks you are going to put this in a control panel. It appears that they also offer a NEMA 1 kit to bring the IP20 enclosure up to NEMA 1 specifications. I take it that you have the ABB NEMA 1 kit?

NEMA 1 rating means the enclosure protects people from contacting high voltage parts. It also provides some protection against falling debris, but it is not dust tight or water tight. NEMA 1 enclosures can have ventilation openings as long as it is not possible to stick your fingers or a screw driver through the vent and contact a high voltage part. The vents are often louvers - sometimes screens.

Anyways, a VFD puts off some heat when it is running. A 3 HP VFD puts off about the heat of a 100 watt light bulb when the drive is working hard. The drive has one or more internal fans to cool itself. Ventilation of the enclosure is important so as not to overheat the drive. Unless this is a really large drill press, I suspect you will seldom load the drive to its rated 3 HP, but you still need to allow for cooling of the drive. Over the years I have worked with many ABB and similar drives in industrial control panels. Often there were 8 - 10 drives in a single large panel. These panels were always fitted with one or more "pancake" blowers to pull fresh, cool air into the panel and to exhaust the warm air. The blowers ran in exhaust mode and were located near the top of the panel. The air inlets were near the bottom of the panel and always had a dust filter installed. These filters looked like what you would find in a residential kitchen exhaust fan - made of several layers of expanded aluminum, and were washable. As long as the filters were in place, the inside of the panels remained clean. So, your idea of using a screen or mesh might be workable, but be sure not to restrict the airflow of the cooling blowers.

*Braking*
Many VFDs have the capability of braking by forcing the motor into a generating mode and using a braking resistor to dissipate the generated current. I don't think you need this for a drill press. If it were me, I would configure the VFD to run in the "coast to a stop" mode, and not even use the "decelerate" feature. That way the drill press stops in a way similar to turning off the switch. FWIW, braking is used in hoists, elevators and other applications where the motor has to hold back a load. It is also used for E-Stops of large rotating machines.

*Symbols*
For the input power, single phase 240 volt goes into U1 (L) and V1 (N). They ought to just call them L1 and L2 since there is no "neutral" used in 240 VAC.

U2, V2, and W2 are the terminals going to the 3 phase motor. It is best to have the wiring from the drive terminals go directly to the motor connections without passing through a switch of any kind. Opening the 3 phase circuit when the drive is loaded might smoke the drive. Keep the 3 phase wiring as short as feasible (like 6 ft or 10 ft). The high frequency switching on the 3 phase circuit can cause problematic standing waves when the length gets beyond 50 ft or so.

I recommend a manual "safety disconnect switch" on the inlet power, located near the drive. The disconnect provides a means of removing power from the VFD for servicing, or for when you are not using the drill press. 

*Set Up Parameters*
You will have to go through a "set up" procedure before you operate the drive. Don't be scared off by the dozens of parameters that appear to require setting.  Many can remain in their "factory default" setting. Probably only 15 or 20 need to be reset. 

Some of the parameters to be set include the rated amps of the motor, motor rated speed, rated HP, accel time, decel time, reversing or not, etc.

Read through the set up portion of the manual and try stepping through the menus once the drive is powered up. Then, post again if you have questions on any of the parameters.

Terry S.


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## cpd62 (Sep 18, 2013)

Thanks Terry.  Sorry for the confusion.  My link wasn't clear.  I just picked the first website that came up on google that displayed the brand and had a photo.  I actually got one rated for my 3/4hp motor.  I bought it from an American site.

Looks like I'll need to do something for dust so I'll work on that.  

Take care,
Christian


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## UncleRuss (Sep 21, 2013)

You are receiving good advise.  We don't know what kind of dust you are dealing with.  If it is non-conductive (like sawdust) maybe you are overly concerned and a little maintenance is all you need.  Remote switches for a drill press would be simple and relatively inexpensive to install.  Forward/Reverse-Stop, speed control and drive reset is what I put on my control panel and have not needed more to date.  Having the drive reset function is really handy for when that drill bites and wants to stall while penetrating the material.  Wait a couple seconds, push reset, you are back in business.  Better than having to open the box, power the drive down, power back up, close the enclosure, then continue your work.

As mentioned, screens and filters go a long ways in helping to protect your drive.  Maybe you could fit inside the enclosure you already have.

Just a thought!!


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## cpd62 (Sep 21, 2013)

UncleRuss said:


> You are receiving good advise.  We don't know what kind of dust you are dealing with.  If it is non-conductive (like sawdust) maybe you are overly concerned and a little maintenance is all you need.  Remote switches for a drill press would be simple and relatively inexpensive to install.  Forward/Reverse-Stop, speed control and drive reset is what I put on my control panel and have not needed more to date.  Having the drive reset function is really handy for when that drill bites and wants to stall while penetrating the material.  Wait a couple seconds, push reset, you are back in business.  Better than having to open the box, power the drive down, power back up, close the enclosure, then continue your work.As mentioned, screens and filters go a long ways in helping to protect your drive.  Maybe you could fit inside the enclosure you already have.Just a thought!!


Thanks. I started another thread but it's probably more appropriate to keep here. I included a diagram from the manual there as well. In my VFD (ABB ACS150) I need to confirm that I'm reading it properly. It looks like switching and speed remote control can be wired in from the separate I/O connector panel. All I care to do is add on/off and remote speed controls. I realized that I can  mount the device under my bench in a cabinet and that will keep it free of debris. I just need some confirmation on wiring and what switch types to buy.


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## cpd62 (Sep 22, 2013)

For any of you still out there on this topic Radioshack has a nice assortment of small plastic or aluminum enclosures they call project boxes. The prices were all cheap.  They look good for remote wiring for controls to a machine.


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## UncleRuss (Sep 22, 2013)

My Good Man;
I have used many a RS project box.  Don't get a real cheapie as you do want it to last for a while anyway.  All controls from the drive are low voltage so there is no problem there.  A maintained toggle switch and a 5K ohm rotary pot with a knob will get the job done for hardly any outlay in cash.  But, again, at least purchase something that will stand up to a little abuse.  Remember to use shielded wire from switch to drive. Ground the shield on the drive end and clip it on the box end.  But you knew that already.

Have fun and make the _*SWARF*_ fly!


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## cpd62 (Sep 23, 2013)

UncleRuss said:


> My Good Man;I have used many a RS project box.  Don't get a real cheapie as you do want it to last for a while anyway.  All controls from the drive are low voltage so there is no problem there.  A maintained toggle switch and a 5K ohm rotary pot with a knob will get the job done for hardly any outlay in cash.  But, again, at least purchase something that will stand up to a little abuse.  Remember to use shielded wire from switch to drive. Ground the shield on the drive end and clip it on the box end.  But you knew that already.Have fun and make the _*SWARF*_ fly!


Noted. Thanks. The aluminum ones looked good and solid and inexpensive. I picked up the 5ohm pot, a knob and some shielded 18-2 all for under $12.


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## chrishoag (Sep 11, 2014)

I package my drives in Saginaw boxes.


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## chrishoag (Sep 26, 2014)

Here's ABB's NEMA 1 Kit for the ACS150 drives.


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