# Reamers and the proper use



## Vince (Jan 20, 2014)

I don't know if this is the proper forum for this question but here goes.
I use chucking reamers when I need to get a deep bore to a tight tolerance. I usually open the bore up to within .007 of final dimension then use a reamer to finish.
With this being said I am not sure if I am reaming correctly. I will apply plenty of cutting fluid and advance the reamer about .020 to .050 at a time and while the piece is still turning I retract the reamer to clean. Then add more fluid and repeat. Is this the correct way to ream?
The next question I have has to do with buying used reamers. Until now I have always purchased a new reamer for the job that needed to be done. The project I am doing now I need to make sure I have a 1" through hole for 6". Tolerance +.0015/-.000
The price for a new reamer this size is like taking out a second mortgage so I found a used set of Millersburg reamers that appear to be in pretty good shape and cover a variety of sizes for less than the 1" reamer costs by itself. I was thinking about purchasing them and then having them sharpened.
Does anyone have a better way to do what I need to do?
Has anyone sharpened reamers or had them sharpened and them not losing dimension?
Where would you have them sharpened at?
Any ideas or guidance would be appreciated.
I know just enough about this machining thing to be dangerous. LOL
Thanks Vince


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## David Kirtley (Jan 20, 2014)

You could make a D-reamer if you can heat treat. Basic theory is you turn drill rod (Yep, that is why they call it drill rod  ) to dimension, mill off half of it and sharpen. You make a bit of relief a little back from the cutting edge so you don't have lots of friction. Lube it up and ream. Cheap and effective. That's what they did before you could go down to the store and buy them.


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## kd4gij (Jan 20, 2014)

If you have a reamer sharpend it will be under size.


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## donthack (Jan 21, 2014)

My reamers (all under .750) have flutes that seem fairly straight for 2" or more.  The loss of diameter should be no more then .0001-2 for the first couple of sharpenings?  Never had one sharpend so I do not know.  I would like to know though.:whistle:


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## Vince (Jan 22, 2014)

I like the concept of the D reamer, but my ability to heat treat is questionable. Everytime I have heat treated something its either brittle or not hard enough. I just can't grasp how hot to take it then quench it and draw it back, not to mention that I work with a lot of scrap steel pieces and have no idea as to the composition. So that really makes it a shot in the dark.
Lately though I have been purchasing steel that I know the comp on and am trying to build up a small inventory of sizes I use the most.
I actually have a ceramic oven that was given to me and I had planned on modifying it to a heat treat oven but have yet to get it done. I have the rtds' but I haven't got the control for the oven yet. I have drawn the plans out for the frame work so I could put the oven on its side and use it horizontally instead of vertically.
I think that would be a handy accessory. At least I could control temp, time, and know the piece was equally heated. The capability to anneal and heat treat with it would be great. That may be another topic for the forum to get some input on and a project to get completed. Sorry about digressing into another topic.
I believe I have decided to just purchase reamers as needed. I am going to send a few reamers out that I have acquired over the years for sharpening to see how that works out. If it is reasonable and fairly successful one could buy reamers at the flea markets and recondition them for pennies on the dollar.
I talked to a shop that makes my band saw blades and sharpens my end mills and they said they could sharpen the reamers as well so we will see.
Thanks for the replies and I will post the results of getting the reamers sharpened.

Thanks again, Vince


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