# Beefing up my 9x20



## chuckorlando (Apr 21, 2014)

Well it has begun. When I first got my 9x I tore it down to clean it. Once apart I found the handle for the cross slide was broke in half. So I went to the junk pile, then the bandsaw, then the welder. This move was just to get by. I refuse to buy a new part to build a part to replace the part I bought:nuts:






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So then I got a chunk of steel. I first chucked it up close and turned the whole thing to the largest dia I wanted. Thats the area that mounts to the crossslide.

I then center drilled it. Then pulled it out just past the thickness of the mounting area. Now threw in a live center and turned all but the mounting surface to the next largest dia. Thats where the handle goes.

I then flipped it around and drilled my threw hole. I flipped it so it had more surface in the jaw. I should have done this when I turned the first dia.







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I put it back between centers and used a parting tool to cut out clearance for my rh turning tool.

Then I turned the smallest dia. Thats between the other two out side dia.

Then I got the boring bar to bore the two bearing seats. I should have also done this while I had a good chunk to go in the chuck. It worked so lesson learned the easy way for now.....

I done as Bill G suggested in another thread for the bearing. I got close then set the bottom of the bearing in and rolled the top in. Kept removing a little at a time and check each time untill I snuck up on a tight fitting bearing x2.







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I then chucked it in the mill and used my test indicator to locate center of the hole. And what I thought was good measurements to locate my holes.








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Then I test fit and it was not right. I was off just a tick. Lucky the holes are not on center so I had a chance to flip it over and re try. This time I got it right.

Then back into the mill to shave the top down a bit. Then mill an angle into the sides and try to remove the bad holes.








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And here is where we are at for today. I hope to get my 4 bolt compound clamp done at school in a bit. I have to make the 7/16 cross slide nut and turn down the end for the handle as well. You can also see the bolstar axa tool post bolt installed. Just a drill and tap job so nothing really to show there.


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## RandyM (Apr 22, 2014)

Great job Chuck, well done! Looks better than the original, probably works better too. Thank you for the post.


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## chuckorlando (Apr 22, 2014)

Thanks Randy. I hope it works better. It adds 2 bearings where the orig was just sloppy hole. It adds 1 mounting hole over the orig 2. It adds about 1.5in in length which will allow me to do something like this to the compound. It bout doubles the size of the screw the cross slide travels on.

I only got about 1hr at school on my lathe so the 4 bolt mod will be finished on Wed. I'll post pics and disc once it's done.

The best part of school was the teacher responce when I told him I ordered two 5/8 plates so I have 2 chances. He told me just take the material I need from the class. No need to buy it. Thats pretty sweet if you ask me.


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## Bill Gruby (Apr 22, 2014)

While you were doing the cross slide did you think to extend the travel?  Mine has 1 inch more than stock. You have a ways to go but good so far. I have made 44 upgrades to mine to date.

 "Billy G"


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## chuckorlando (Apr 22, 2014)

That was certainly an idea. I never could find any plans for this so I just kinda done it. All I have is what you told me Bill or what I read on the net. I just made it as big as I had the steel to do so. I'll make it travel as far as I can squeeze out of her.

Bill is this just a matter of a longer screw? 

I think I want to do a reverse tumbler as well. And a radius turner.


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## Bill Gruby (Apr 22, 2014)

No, you need to make that whole housing longer. That's when I upgraded to the 7/16- 20 lead screw also. I'll find the procedure for you.

 "Billy G"

 Found it, this is the same as I used.

http://www.bedair.org/Crossfeed/crossfeed.html


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## Rbeckett (Apr 22, 2014)

Chuck,
Modifying the HF and 9X lathes is a true addiction, and I have one of each so I have plenty to do into the future too..  There are sooo many upgrades available from gear train, to tool post, to 4 bolt top slide and a ton more.  All you have to do is start at the most important one for each project and by the time you run out of projects the lathe will be fully and completely modified to your exact liking and specifications.  I know I need to do the 4 bolt top slide upgrade on mine to get the best out of the QCTP that is already installed.

Bob


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## chuckorlando (Apr 22, 2014)

Ah yea Bill I made my mount about 1.5in longer. I went through Steves site for ideas as well as many others. I just never seen prints or plans. I made mine longer so I could make the compound longer and handle larger. I'm not sure where I seen the 3rd hole but it seemed like a good idea so I used it.

Bob I agree. My mount was broke so I had no choice but to fix that. I cant see buying another as cheap as the oem. The 4 bolt is more important truth be told as my thrown together scrap deal is doing the job. But I got the steel for the handle before the steel for the 4 bolt. 4 bolt will be dont tomorrow.

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Would alum work for the cross feed nut or would I need to order some brass or such?


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## chuckorlando (Apr 23, 2014)

Well I did not get the 4 bolt done. But I got it squared and both bores done. The plans called for 2.01 and I hit 2.012 best me or the teacher could mic.

I also did not like how square my cross slide handle mount was. So I milled the top down to meet the slide. Then side milled above the holes till I reached the smallest dia. Being I have no roto or even a ball nose, I had to break out the mill file and sand paper.


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## chuckorlando (Apr 23, 2014)

For the 4 post I started with a 5/8 chunk a little over 4in square. Milled it to size. Scribed a cross on it to find a rough center. Dialed in the 4 jaw. Center drilled it. Through drilled it. Then used a 15/16. Then bored it hog style to about 1.5 and started checking it often with calipers. Once I got down to 1.85 I started micing it. Once the through bore was done I touched off the inside to zero and touched off the face for zero. I dont recall the depth or dia off hand but we dont the same thing. Once close we switch to a mic.








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few more


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## dave2176 (Apr 23, 2014)

It is looking really good.  I gotta get some of those inside mics.

Dave


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## chuckorlando (Apr 24, 2014)

They are a bit of a pain to use. But our instructor has beat into our head " calipers are for roughing, mics are for precision." An let me tell you this puppy is nuts tight. This was an area where I wanted tight. Most what I have done calipers would do fine


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## chuckorlando (May 4, 2014)

Moving along.

After the two bottom bores were done we flipped the work. Turned the face down to a decent shoulder then camphored it. Then we drilled the 4 mounting holes and milled off the corners. Then we did a little trig to find my angle for a degree ring viewing slot. I wanted it angled so you did not have to squat so much to see it. I had to do 24* because I had no way to set the minutes and seconds. It worked out perfect.







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few more


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## chuckorlando (May 4, 2014)

Then we milled a .085 recess in the bottom of the cross slide. The idea was to mill the bottom of the nut to fit the recess but have a larger lip for support. I failed to check to see if my drawing would fit the machine other then the cross slide. So in a pinch I turned the BP head to 45 and got it right. I drilled and tapped the top for a 1/4-20 and the nut it's self to a 7/16-20LH.








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few more


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## Bill Gruby (May 4, 2014)

What material is that lead nut made from? Mine is Bronze and has been in use for two years now with no ill effects.

 "Billy G"


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## chuckorlando (May 4, 2014)

It's alum. I intend to make one from bronze with a turned nub to fit the oem hole. But my cast one is broke in half so I cant turn anything till I have a nut.


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## Bill Gruby (May 4, 2014)

Good on ya. Aluminum would not hold the thread tolerance long with a steel lead screw. The back pressure during even a moderate cut would soon end up in more problems like Backlash. I have to strip the cross-slide on mine today. I will post a picture of mine.

 "Billy G"


 The turned nub is called a "Spigot".


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## Bill Gruby (May 4, 2014)

Plain Jane. No need for anything else. I also did away with the Grub Screw that Jet had on it. It only cocks the nut causing more wear.

 "Billy G"


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## chuckorlando (May 4, 2014)

That would be great. I went with alum just for that reason. For a temporary solution I would just assume it leave no wear on the permanent parts. I had steel, alum, or cast iron so I just picked the softest.

Plus I learned alot through minor error. The next one will be much easier and cleaner I'd say. I would like to have machined the side angles as more then an after thought. I drew out the part and made it to the drawing. But in my hast I neglected to check the clearance on the carriage. My intent was a 1.0 x 0.9 nut. .9 is a .125 per side to much.

These cheap machines are expensive school books. Long as I'm learning

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Thanks Bill. I assumed that screw just screwed into the screw. My oem nut must have been broke in that area as the screw had nothing over it but the screw. The nut was in front of it. So thats how I made mine


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## xman_charl (May 5, 2014)

Where is the beef?









Charl


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