# any difference -wood or metal???



## Glenn Brooks (Oct 27, 2017)

So I've been hunting for a used metal, vertical band saw- and  drats. Just  missed a very nice, classic, variable speed, museum quality, big iron 16" unit. 

Now I am thinking maybe I could more easily pick up a used wood saw and change the pulleys (and blade) to lower the speed - or put on a variable speed D.C. Motor, and be a happy camper.

So is there any actual difference in the construction of wood versus metal bandsaws? Other than speed and type of blade?? Anything that would prevent me from swapping out motors and size of pulley to end up with a durable metal cutting vertical saw???

Thanks
Glenn


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## Ulma Doctor (Oct 27, 2017)

Hi Glenn,
generally speaking,
if you use woodworking machinery on metal- you will need to do it gently.
if you slow the saw down or have a variable drive that would be great.
you may consider an equivalent blade speed of somewhere around 200fpm (give or take)

if may just make a nice metal saw!
you may have some limitations but it may just work as needed.


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## Charles Spencer (Oct 27, 2017)

I converted a bandsaw to cut metal.  It's not a Doall but it works for me.  I used an additional pulley and shaft to get the speed down to 112 FPM.  The 2x4s supporting it are attached to a piece of angle iron that has screws to adjust the belt tension.


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## Groundhog (Oct 27, 2017)

A few years back I bought a used wood bandsaw with the intention to do exactly what you have in mind. However, since I was most interested in cutting bigger sheets of 1/2" and thinner (down to 0.060") aluminum into smaller (rectangular) pieces I ended up with a table saw and a pair of Diablo blades (ferrous and non-ferrous). That, along with a sliding "boat" and a HF sawdust catch bag does what I need. I re-sold the band saw without converting it.
I thought I'd throw this in on the off chance that something like this would fill your needs better than a band saw.


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## woodchucker (Oct 27, 2017)

Groundhog said:


> That, along with a sliding "boat" and a HF sawdust catch bag does what I need. I re-sold the band saw without converting it.
> I thought I'd throw this in on the off chance that something like this would fill your needs better than a band saw.


when you say sliding boat you mean a sled?
Aren't you worried the bag will start on fire from the hot embers of metal? Not trying to be the safety police, just thinking that metal has to be hot as anything when cut at high speed.


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## Groundhog (Oct 27, 2017)

Yeah, I guess you call it a sled. I use that and the rip fence, push sticks and stand well to the side! I use a shop vac setup that collects a lot of the shavings.
As for the bag catching on fire I keep that in mind and watch it carefully but I don't see any scorch marks !! (and no sawing wood because of saw dust). Probably relying on luck more than common sense. Maybe I should research that better??


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## Bill Gruby (Oct 27, 2017)

I converted a much broken HF 16" band saw using a 60 :1 gear reduction unit to slow it down. You do not have to baby mine one bit.

 "Billy G"


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## Kernbigo (Oct 27, 2017)

here is the last 1 i built,used a treadmill motor,1.5 hp and i weld my own blades out of bulk material. It works great on wood or metal by varying the dc motor speed. The 1 i built before was a 14", worked great but took up to much of my small floor space.


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## Dabbler (Oct 27, 2017)

Kernbigo - nice surface grinder i the background...  What make and model is it?


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## T Bredehoft (Oct 27, 2017)

The metal cutting band saws I used when working professionally had a weight system to apply pressure to the work being cut. Inch thick steel cuts quite slowly compared to wood, You could stand there and watch the saw do the work, but not go away, it would rotate/turn on the cut line. 
Perhaps 1/4 inch steel goes fast enough you don't need assistance.


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## dlane (Oct 27, 2017)

I happened across this saw couple years ago , it's a Doall band filer converted to a band saw , it's been working good.











It takes 114" blades , only thing wrong with it was the green.


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## ezduzit (Oct 27, 2017)

If converting a wood bandsaw to metal cutting were as simple as changing a couple pulleys, manufacturers would not go to the expense of building complex reduction/gear drives.


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## Glenn Brooks (Oct 27, 2017)

So I googled around the web this morning and came up with some interesting rpm numbers.

Most people recommend a 30:1 gear reduction motor to bring the typical 14" diameter wood bandsaw machine down to metal cutting 100 SFM.

100 SFM with 14" diameter wheel means the wheel needs to turn 28.28 RPM. That is Slooooowww.

Some guys actually drag their bandsaw over to their lathe and put a v belt on a jack shaft into the lathe chuck and use their headstock to turn the bandsaw that slow.

Couple other people said they were going to convert their bandsaw with a D.C. Variable speed motor, but never reported back how successful they were.

Think I will keep looking - to many projects already not getting done to add a bandsaw conversion to the list,  I need the bandsaw to do the projects - not the other way around.

Or maybe I will just break down and get a plasma cutter.    Problem solved!  

Glenn


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## woodchucker (Oct 27, 2017)

Derrick , funny tag...


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## woodchucker (Oct 27, 2017)

Glenn Brooks said:


> So I googled around the web this morning and came up with some interesting rpm numbers.
> 
> Most people recommend a 30:1 gear reduction motor to bring the typical 14" diameter wood bandsaw machine down to metal cutting 100 SFM.
> 
> ...


Do you need a big Bandsaw now.. I have a portaband that I added a table too. Works real well for most of what I need. Yes, it is limited, but I can take the table off and take it with me.
	

		
			
		

		
	



More at: 



https://imgur.com/a/WE6dW


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## Glenn Brooks (Oct 27, 2017)

Jeff, I have one of those small hand held bandsaws from LittleMachine Shops. Sort of a junior Portaband. I don't have an immediate need, just tooling up for a little winter project.  Maybe will look at adding a table, just as you show above.  Thanks for the idea!

Glenn


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## ezduzit (Oct 27, 2017)

Glenn Brooks said:


> ...Most people recommend a 30:1 gear reduction motor to bring the typical 14" diameter wood bandsaw machine down to metal cutting 100 SFM...



You need around 50 fpm for stainless.


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## Kernbigo (Oct 27, 2017)

well how does my craftsman work great with out that so called 30-1 gear reduction, also the 14" that i sold for lack of room. The surface grinder is a ko lee tool grinder that i turned into a surface grinder, in the picture.


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## ezduzit (Oct 27, 2017)

Kernbigo said:


> well how does my craftsman work great with out that so called 30-1 gear reduction...



It doesn't; you just think it does.


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## Kernbigo (Oct 27, 2017)

ya write


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## Franko (Oct 27, 2017)

I converted a Delta 14" bandsaw with a 12" to 4" pully arrangement. The speed was ok, but I never was able to adjust it so I could cut a straight line, so I got rid of it. I upgraded the crap out of it with ball-bearing blade guides but it never cut anything straight, including wood.

I don't see any magic difference between gear reduction or belt pulleys. They both do the same thing.

I use a 10" non-ferris carbide blade on my Powermatic table saw with a sled to cut aluminum and it works spectacularly well. I never had any problems setting the sawdust inside the cabinet on fire.


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## bfd (Oct 28, 2017)

delta makes or made a 14" band saw with a reduction gearbox built in it was made to cut wood at 3000 fpm and metal at 150 fpm I have one it works well for cutting both. just don't forget to switch speeds. ruins a good blade fast. I am working on a delta 20" band saw that will go from 50 fpm to 5000 fpm. meant to cut both wood and metal. bill


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## Superburban (Oct 28, 2017)

Sears has had several metal and wood cutting bandsaws over the years.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-18-in-wood-and-metal-cutting/p-00922450000P

The operating principals are the same, just differences for the metals beeing cut. 


I picked up a crafts\man 12" wood saw that I was going to slow down for metal, but never got further on that project. The one thing that concerned me, was how long the rubber on the wheels would hold up with the metal shavings getting embedded. 

I have since picked up an old carolina bandsaw that sat out in the weather for over ten years. I swapped the motor, had to make a bushing for the idler wheel, and has been working great, even with the rusted old blade that came with it.


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## Dabbler (Oct 29, 2017)

My metal cutting vertical bandsaw has rubber tires on it and it's okay.  General metal bandsaws have always had rubber tires on them. Unless they have worn out from age, I've never seen damage from  chips.


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## f350ca (Oct 29, 2017)

I was given a Delta Milwaukee wood/metal saw. The motor drives the bottom wheel through a single belt for wood, there is a lever to engage the gearbox which I think was something like 19:1. A second four step pulley is used on the input of the gearbox for metal giving a range of speeds down to about 100 fpm.






Greg


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## woodchucker (Oct 29, 2017)

Franko said:


> I converted a Delta 14" bandsaw with a 12" to 4" pully arrangement. The speed was ok, but I never was able to adjust it so I could cut a straight line, so I got rid of it. I upgraded the crap out of it with ball-bearing blade guides but it never cut anything straight, including wood.
> 
> I don't see any magic difference between gear reduction or belt pulleys. They both do the same thing.
> 
> I use a 10" non-ferris carbide blade on my Powermatic table saw with a sled to cut aluminum and it works spectacularly well. I never had any problems setting the sawdust inside the cabinet on fire.


As a wood worker first and machinist second, there is a lot of work that goes into setting up a saw that won't cut straight. I finally got my delta to track well. I had to remove the alignment pins and twist the top frame, I have a riser. Once this was done I was closer. Then I found I had to ream the adjustable support column as it was not following te blade when you moved it. It pulled away and required constant re-adjustment. Then I shimmed the new reamed hole take up the extra space, I glued brass shims in to fit it.  And I had to true the wheels up which were not round and wobbled.  A rubber mallet on a stand like a bicycle truing stand. The problem was the wheels caused the blades to move. This on the more expensive USA made band saw..  So much for USA made being better quality. It was awful.  All this got me to a great working band saw.  My only regret is not going for an 18"-20" machine, with more horse power.  I have often needed it, as I resaw a lot of wood. I prefer the small band saw for metal as the speed is more correct, and it works quite well for simple cutting. I don't have a need to cut massive metal stock, and if I did,  I would stick it in the reciprocating portable hacksaw.


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## woodchucker (Oct 29, 2017)

f350ca said:


> I was given a Delta Milwaukee wood/metal saw. The motor drives the bottom wheel through a single belt for wood, there is a lever to engage the gearbox which I think was something like 19:1. A second four step pulley is used on the input of the gearbox for metal giving a range of speeds down to about 100 fpm.
> 
> Nice unit. That's a keeper.
> 
> Greg


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## markba633csi (Oct 30, 2017)

I like your dog Greg. He needs a pad to lie on
Mark


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## f350ca (Oct 30, 2017)

markba633csi said:


> I like your dog Greg. He needs a pad to lie on
> Mark


She's a pampered pup Mark, has a bed in the shop and the SPCA on speed dial in case we ever run out of chicken strips. lol

Greg


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## Dabbler (Oct 30, 2017)

Very nice machine - I love older machines with mass, iron and that solid feeling.  The only comperable 14" methal saw currently made is the General.  Thye've moved casting offshore, but they seem to have retained most of their quality...


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## T. J. (Oct 30, 2017)

I once ran across a wood-to-metal bandsaw conversion somewhere on the internet.  The guy used a transmission from a riding lawnmower as a gear box - that way he had several speeds to choose from.


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## C-Bag (Nov 4, 2017)

At one point several years ago I realized I was using my 4x6 more vertical than horizontal and it just wasn't safe. I decided it was time for a dedicated vertical saw and on our local CL the most frequent for sale was 14". But they were all set up for wood. In further research the consensus seemed to be around 100 fpm and wood is 3000. The beauty of the 14" is there are so many after market parts available. The other bonus is the HF 14" is a direct knockoff and I found one for $50. 

I used a double reduction to get it down to speed. The new rubber tires, pulley's and tensioner cost less than $50. Everything else I had laying around like the motor mount from a table saw fail from CL. The most expensive part was the ball bearing head I got off Rockler. But all up it was less than $350 and you can't touch a vertical metal bandsaw for that.


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## C-Bag (Nov 4, 2017)

BTW the best vid I've ever seen for setup of a bandsaw is this:






This totally changed my world and this made all the difference in my saw. It's cuts totally straight now.


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## Dabbler (Nov 4, 2017)

Thanks...  great video!


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## Scruffy (Nov 25, 2017)

Bill Grundy, if you ever have time I would love to see some pics and a little info. On your conversion.
I have an old ,very heavy delta that’s been waiting a couple of years for this.
Thanks ron


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## Downunder Bob (Dec 14, 2017)

Glenn Brooks said:


> So I've been hunting for a used metal, vertical band saw- and  drats. Just  missed a very nice, classic, variable speed, museum quality, big iron 16" unit.
> 
> Now I am thinking maybe I could more easily pick up a used wood saw and change the pulleys (and blade) to lower the speed - or put on a variable speed D.C. Motor, and be a happy camper.
> 
> ...



 I don't think there is much difference in the basic design, apart from blade speed and blade tooth pitch, and also blade material. I started using my small Hafco 5 x 5  (Aussie brand, madec in Taiwan, bit like PM ) horizontal blade, intended for metal cutting, to cut small pieces of wood, kindling for the fire last winter.

My machine is variable speed, but even on the fastest it is way too slow, but having said that it still cuts the wood quite well also the coarsest blade I had was 8TPI, again a metal cutting blade. I have since been to the local blade guy and had him make me a blade, for cutting wood, to fit my machine. It works quite well. At this stage I'm not even going to bother trying to speed it up.

I'm also in the process of modifying the saw so I can use it as a vertical blade as well as horizontal, and will fit a small table for when the blade is vertical, Yes, yes, I know, pictures. You'll have to wait until I've got something to photograph.

Of course with your woodworking saw you will have to slow it down quite a bit, and get a local blade guy to make you some blades for cutting metal. You'll probably need 3 blades coarse, medium and fine, a bit like a set of hacksaw blades.

Of coarse by slowing down with pulleys you'll have plenty of tourque for cutting metal. Whereas the speed reduction on the motor might leave you shy on tourque when the going gets tough. A simple two speed pulley should be all you need to use. Get on to it, you will not regret it.


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## Mr Mike (Dec 14, 2017)

Glenn Brooks said:


> So I've been hunting for a used metal, vertical band saw- and  drats. Just  missed a very nice, classic, variable speed, museum quality, big iron 16" unit.
> 
> Now I am thinking maybe I could more easily pick up a used wood saw and change the pulleys (and blade) to lower the speed - or put on a variable speed D.C. Motor, and be a happy camper.
> 
> ...




Hello Glenn..
The tension on the blade for a metal cutting band saw is Much higher then a wood one to keep the blade running strait.. 

I use to use a jet wet metal cutting band saw, it was a great machine could be used in both vertical and horizontal position, quality blades lasted a long time with coolant...

Nowadays I use a carbide blade chop saw for cutting, light weight, quick setup & saves allot of space.. And its fast where as the band saw was slow.
the blades are pricey and don't last as long as a band saw blade, but it cuts dead strait every time.

Many companies make them - Evolution has a really cheap one that will work fine... just take cuts slow, the big difference between the cheap ones and higher price ones, is there more industrial.

I use this 14" CSM14MB Metal Devil. Love it. Cuts everything without changing the blade.


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## Dabbler (Dec 14, 2017)

You don't need excessive blade tension to cut metal well.  Properly set up, it doesn't take any extra tension at all.


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## Mr Mike (Dec 14, 2017)

Glenn Brooks said:


> So I've been hunting for a used metal, vertical band saw- and  drats. Just  missed a very nice, classic, variable speed, museum quality, big iron 16" unit.
> 
> Now I am thinking maybe I could more easily pick up a used wood saw and change the pulleys (and blade) to lower the speed - or put on a variable speed D.C. Motor, and be a happy camper.
> 
> ...



Also Glenn be careful when looking at woodworking band saws, Many don't use ball bearing guides, they will sometimes use plastic guide blocks that tend to melt - if you like a saw ( good deal ) you can just add some roller bearings guides for 150.00...


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## richl (Dec 14, 2017)

Good thread, the carter video was good for information I did not know, ordering some roller guides and urethane tires for the old Taiwan jet 14" bandsaw. Also went thru a number of modification videos on utube . Should help out a bunch.
Good thread with some excellent information.


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## Downunder Bob (Dec 15, 2017)

Dabbler said:


> You don't need excessive blade tension to cut metal well.  Properly set up, it doesn't take any extra tension at all.



I find that the blade jumps off the pullys if not very tight.


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## C-Bag (Dec 15, 2017)

What blew my mind in the Carter vid was he addressed EVERY notion I had about what I thought I knew about how band saw's work and how to adjust them! I don't even know where I got those ideas. Once I went through all the steps he lays out tracking was absolutely not an issue anymore. My HF saw had gone through several hands with each new owner compounding the problems of the previous owner until the tensioner/tracker was trashed and the tires were worn out. Now it takes very little tension to track. And I would bet for the first time in the saw's life it cuts straight. 

I personally do mostly metal on mine so my reduction setup has proved to be excellent for what I do because it never bogs down. If I ever get to it I'd like to find a DIY design for a saw blade quick release. The Carter is nice, but kinda pricey for I don't change blades but once in a great while. Hard to justify just being lazy.


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## Dabbler (Dec 16, 2017)

Downunder Bob said:


> I find that the blade jumps off the pulleys if not very tight.



What  I mean is that blade tension is solely related to blade width and thickness.  A 3/4" .030 blade for wood or the same dimension blade bimetal metal cutting blade need the *same *tension.  There is no difference at all.  If you are making the metal blade much tighter, then either your wood blades aren't tight enough or you are overstressing the metal blades leading to breakage.

I've been using a metal/wood 18" bandsaw for 30+ years using blades from as little as 1/8" to as much as 1.5" on the same saw.  I haven't
broken a blade in probably 20 years. I've never had a blade 'jump off the pulleys'.  

How do I set the tension? sound. I adjust until I hear resonance in the blade and then tighten a little bit.  If the pitch changes suddenly, it is too tight, so I back off a bit.  The scale on my machine is way off!  When I first got my machine,   I broke blades because I went with the scale.


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## Downunder Bob (Dec 16, 2017)

Dabbler said:


> What  I mean is that blade tension is solely related to blade width and thickness.  A 3/4" .030 blade for wood or the same dimension blade bimetal metal cutting blade need the *same *tension.  There is no difference at all.  If you are making the metal blade much tighter, then either your wood blades aren't tight enough or you are overstressing the metal blades leading to breakage.
> 
> I've been using a metal/wood 18" bandsaw for 30+ years using blades from as little as 1/8" to as much as 1.5" on the same saw.  I haven't
> broken a blade in probably 20 years. I've never had a blade 'jump off the pulleys'.
> ...



I get that the blade tightness is related to the blade thickness and width, and while I have never broken a blade, I think that my blade tension is higher than it should need to be, basically I have to tighten my blades as tight as I can get them or they jump off the pulleys. My machine has metal wheels without rubber or urethane tyres. There is no crowning on the wheels, the blade runs with the back edge of the blade against a small shoulder or flange on the wheel. Sometimes it will run for hours then all of a  sudden it will just jump off the wheels, This happens more often when cutting wood than with steel.


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## C-Bag (Dec 16, 2017)

Downunder Bob said:


> I get that the blade tightness is related to the blade thickness and width, and while I have never broken a blade, I think that my blade tension is higher than it should need to be, basically I have to tighten my blades as tight as I can get them or they jump off the pulleys. My machine has metal wheels without rubber or urethane tyres. There is no crowning on the wheels, the blade runs with the back edge of the blade against a small shoulder or flange on the wheel. Sometimes it will run for hours then all of a  sudden it will just jump off the wheels, This happens more often when cutting wood than with steel.



I got that with 4x6's with bad bearings. Either the drive wheel or takeup. When I replaced the bearings or bushings it went away. The only other time is when the blade was wearing out. It would also quit cutting square. On saw with tires it's different.


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## Dabbler (Dec 16, 2017)

Really good points.  One thing I would check is that your wheel faces (that the blade runs on)  is exactly perpendicular to the rotation.  If there is a small wobble, or if the wheels were faced wrong, there would be a tendency to have the blade jump.

It will happen more in wood becasue the metal works as a secondary guide if there's a wobble, but the wood won't.


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## C-Bag (Dec 16, 2017)

Dabbler said:


> Really good points.  One thing I would check is that your wheel faces (that the blade runs on)  is exactly perpendicular to the rotation.  If there is a small wobble, or if the wheels were faced wrong, there would be a tendency to have the blade jump.
> 
> It will happen more in wood becasue the metal works as a secondary guide if there's a wobble, but the wood won't.



I don't cut wood with my 4x6 so I wouldn't know. But usually when the saw was getting marginal it would jump whenever the blade would catch. Either on a kink in the blade or where there was some missing teeth. Cranking down the blade tension helped a little but it usually sped the deterioration of the bearings or bushings that we're going out. Some metal cutting saw's have a takeup wheel tracking tilt adjustment to help compensate for bearing wear. Usually you can look at the wheels under tension and see if they are tilting.


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## woodchucker (Dec 16, 2017)

x


C-Bag said:


> I don't cut wood with my 4x6 so I wouldn't know. But usually when the saw was getting marginal it would jump whenever the blade would catch. Either on a kink in the blade or where there was some missing teeth. Cranking down the blade tension helped a little but it usually sped the deterioration of the bearings or bushings that we're going out. Some metal cutting saw's have a takeup wheel tracking tilt adjustment to help compensate for bearing wear. Usually you can look at the wheels under tension and see if they are tilting.


Those tilt tracking are not for bearing wear. They are for getting the blade to ride on the crown of the wheel if they don't. Bearing wear is something that should be addressed wen it happens. Like any other machine, a worn bearing is not working efficiently. 2 things can happen, you can have a heat build up and ruin the shaft, or you can have a catastrophic failure where the race is ruined and the wheel blows off (rare). A well adjusted saw is one that has the blade riding on the crown of the wheel.


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## Downunder Bob (Dec 17, 2017)

Dabbler said:


> Really good points.  One thing I would check is that your wheel faces (that the blade runs on)  is exactly perpendicular to the rotation.  If there is a small wobble, or if the wheels were faced wrong, there would be a tendency to have the blade jump.
> 
> It will happen more in wood becasue the metal works as a secondary guide if there's a wobble, but the wood won't.





Dabbler said:


> Really good points.  One thing I would check is that your wheel faces (that the blade runs on)  is exactly perpendicular to the rotation.  If there is a small wobble, or if the wheels were faced wrong, there would be a tendency to have the blade jump.
> 
> It will happen more in wood becasue the metal works as a secondary guide if there's a wobble, but the wood won't.



Thanks guys, some good info here. the wheel faces are a square as I can measure, The bearings appear to be good, no wobble and spin freely. The blade guide rollers apppear to quite good also and correctly adjusted, The machine is quite new and has probably not done more than 4 hours run time. I have noticed that the problem only happens at certain times. Such as when cutting metal, the blade breaks free at the end of a cut, or sudden transition from thick to thin section, going from thin to thick doesn't seem to matter.

When cutting wood, solid square or rectangular sections, soft or hardwood, no problem, but round wood as in tree branches the blade suddenly grabs the wood and rotates it then twang the blade is off the pulleys.

Another thing I have noticed is that when cutting wood I get a build up of small wood particals on the wheels, perhaps this is changing the trueness of the wheels and contributing to the problem, possibly allowing the blade to ramp up on the wheel flange and then jump off.


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## Downunder Bob (Dec 6, 2018)

Regarding blade speed 100 - 120 fpm is ok for m/s but if you want to cut s/s or any other hard steel you will need to go even slower. Gear it down with gearbox or belts doesn't really matter as long as you get it slow enough. If you can gear it down to about 150 fpm at full speed on the motor then slow the motor down from there is probably the easiest, just be wary of slowing the motor too much or you will lose torque.

It would be interesting to adapt an old small motorbike gearbox to give you a final range of speeds, with quick easy selection. Similarly I once saw a planer driven by a 15 hp electric motor via an old model T ford gearbox, it worked extremely well. They used the reverse for cutting and 2nd or top gear for the table return, so the table return took about only half the time of the cut. much like a shaper does.


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## MrWhoopee (Dec 23, 2019)

Glenn Brooks said:


> Or maybe I will just break down and get a plasma cutter.    Problem solved!
> 
> 
> Glenn



Dammit! I'd just about decided to convert the 14 in. Craftsman that's been taking up space in my garage. Now what do I do with it?


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## wachuko (Jan 9, 2020)

Old thread but so glad that I came across it.

A friend gave me a used (but in as-new condition) Jet JWBS-14CS woodworking bandsaw... and I was looking into what it would take to make it able to cut metal.







Being new to all this, first thing I did was to do a google search and also come here to check on what others have done.

Now not so sure I should modify it... 

I do plan on buying a plasma cutter as well... this is more to have a metal cutting bandsaw as well and thinking I could use this one with minor modifications.  Looks like it might not be cost effective to modify it for metal cutting.

So leave it just for woodworking (I do not do much off that) and just spend 200.00 on a Harbor Freight metal cutting bandsaw?






Again, I just do pure hobby work, nothing major... 

Thank you in advanced for your comments.


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## MrWhoopee (Jan 9, 2020)

Sell the Jet and get the HF. While limited in the vertical mode, it is generally much more useful than a dedicated vertical bandsaw.


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## ezduzit (Jan 9, 2020)

Do not sell the Jet (it was a gift) and do not modify it. Buy a quality combination vertical/horizontal metal-cutting bandsaw, preferably with gear-head drive.


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## wachuko (Jan 9, 2020)

MrWhoopee said:


> Sell the Jet and get the HF. While limited in the vertical mode, it is generally much more useful than a dedicated vertical bandsaw.



Not selling the Jet... as mentioned, it was a gift from a good friend.  Will keep it and not modify it.  Thank you for the suggestions.



ezduzit said:


> Do not sell the Jet (it was a gift) and do not modify it. Buy a quality combination vertical/horizontal metal-cutting bandsaw, preferably with gear-head drive.



I do not need an expensive bandsaw...all those gear head drive units look like they are expensive. I just do not use it enough to justify the expense.  I was initially looking at the Grizzly G0622 just because I also have a milling machine from them (cool to have all tools match   ).  But not sure having matching looking tools is worth the extra $$ for the Grizzly...






Hummm... I was about to submit the reply when I came across the Jet HVBS-56V 5" X 6" VS Horizontal/Vertical Variable Speed Bandsaw 1/2 Horse Power... it is 649.00 (three times what the HF costs)... but maybe a better option than the HF and Grizzly?






Forgot to add the link:  https://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/hv...ical-variable-speed-bandsaw-1-2hp-1-ph/414548

This is gear head, correct?  It will be 650 vs 210 (HF unit)...but maybe a case where it is worth spending a little bit more... I was afraid a hear head unit was going to be in the thousand range...


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## ezduzit (Jan 9, 2020)

wachuko said:


> ...came across the Jet HVBS-56V 5" X 6" VS Horizontal/Vertical Variable Speed Bandsaw 1/2 Horse Power... it is 649.00 (three times what the HF costs)... but maybe a better option than the HF and Grizzly?



Certainly better than the HF; likely about the same as the Grizzly. Why not find a used one in excellent condition?


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## wachuko (Jan 9, 2020)

ezduzit said:


> Certainly better than the HF; likely about the same as the Grizzly. Why not find a used one in excellent condition?



Thank you.  Looking at them, both the Grizzly and the HF look to be the same units with very little differences.  The Jet seems to be the better option.  I would like to buy new for now, just not something too expensive since I want a few other tools as well.

We are getting a new house (smaller than what we have now) but with the plan to finally build a small workshop for my projects... so really looking forward to getting a few new tools that I have always wanted but did not have the space for them.

I want a bandsaw, a metal lathe (something like a 10"x22"), plasma cutter (unsure if I go with a inexpensive CNC plasma table as well)... even if I am several years away from retirement, I am looking forward to my man cave with tools to keep me busy building stuff... don't ask me what stuff, I don't know, I just want to learn how to use all these tools and just lose myself in there...  

So that you have an idea of the madness... several years back I was working on my motorcycle, swapping wheels that folks told me would not fit, well, I got them to fit...  in the process I needed to modify a caliper to align it with the rotor.  Rather than taking the caliper to a local machine shop, I saw it as the perfect excuse to get a milling machine (the one you see in my signature, which now I wish I had gone with the PM with DRO, but I digress)... 

Now I am looking a making some brackets for some lights in my truck and rather than cutting them with a jigsaw, I am looking at a plasma cutter and that got me looking at CNC plasma tables... to make two frigging brackets for a light... it was that search that got me looking at bandsaw as well... seeing the Jet in the garage got me thinking about converting it to a metal cutting bandsaw, and here we are.   I tell you, there is no logic to my madness... 

Thanks again for your comments.  Much appreciated.


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## C-Bag (Jan 9, 2020)

At the risk of offending(sorry) it has been pointed out the only difference between Jet, Grizzly and HF is the paint job. I am the consummate cheapskate and junkyard dog so I care little for fancy paint. Especially if it's going to cost 3x's more not work any better and make me hesitate at modding it. All three in the case of the horizontal saw and vert. are all cast iron copies of well known designs. It truly depends on how much $$ you want to spend and what you want to do with it. And I see the only difference between the HF and the Jet horiz is the fancy gearbox. In the 40yrs I've had my HF horiz I've never needed to change the speed. Guess that's why my blades last forever.

My old modded(to cut steel) HF vertical saw has turned into my most used machine tool mostly because I do small metal projects. And with the air powered sled I made for it it can do stuff that's a PIA on the horizontal because it's too short or small. Now like with the horizontal I can set the vert to cutting 4x4 cube of aluminum or steel turn on the air feed and go do something else. I get a bigger thrill outta taking some cheap gem in the rough off the local CL and mod it into a machine worth X's times worth to do exactly what I need. That's why I bought a mill and a lathe ( both cheap off CL ) to be able to do just that. To each his own and viva la difference! YMMV!


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## Winegrower (Jan 9, 2020)

It seems to me that the small horizontal band saws are all pretty much alike, so go by price.   However, if you actually have to cut metal frequently, I've been impressed at how well the similar saws work that have a recirculating coolant pump.   They are more costly, but not absurdly so.


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## wachuko (Jan 10, 2020)

C-Bag said:


> At the risk of offending(sorry) it has been pointed out the only difference between Jet, Grizzly and HF is the paint job. I am the consummate cheapskate and junkyard dog so I care little for fancy paint. Especially if it's going to cost 3x's more not work any better and make me hesitate at modding it. All three in the case of the horizontal saw and vert. are all cast iron copies of well known designs. It truly depends on how much $$ you want to spend and what you want to do with it. And I see the only difference between the HF and the Jet horiz is the fancy gearbox. In the 40yrs I've had my HF horiz I've never needed to change the speed. Guess that's why my blades last forever.
> 
> My old modded(to cut steel) HF vertical saw has turned into my most used machine tool mostly because I do small metal projects. And with the air powered sled I made for it it can do stuff that's a PIA on the horizontal because it's too short or small. Now like with the horizontal I can set the vert to cutting 4x4 cube of aluminum or steel turn on the air feed and go do something else. I get a bigger thrill outta taking some cheap gem in the rough off the local CL and mod it into a machine worth X's times worth to do exactly what I need. That's why I bought a mill and a lathe ( both cheap off CL ) to be able to do just that. To each his own and viva la difference! YMMV!



All great feedback.  No sense on spending the extra $$ then on the Jet.  I mentioned the Jet because of the previous recommendation of going with a gear head.  Back to getting the HF bandsaw then!!




Winegrower said:


> It seems to me that the small horizontal band saws are all pretty much alike, so go by price.   However, if you actually have to cut metal frequently, I've been impressed at how well the similar saws work that have a recirculating coolant pump.   They are more costly, but not absurdly so.



I was planning on adding something.  My uncle used to hold a brush with cutting oil while he used his... this was many, many moons ago, he is no longer with us (I learned to weld with him..)  So I was thinking of using something similar but with a pump and one of those flexible nozzles...


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## C-Bag (Jan 10, 2020)

wachuko said:


> All great feedback.  No sense on spending the extra $$ then on the Jet.  I mentioned the Jet because of the previous recommendation of going with a gear head.  Back to getting the HF bandsaw then!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I can see on a large industrial saw using cutting oil.  On a small saw like the horizontal HF all you do is cause slippage on the wheels and a mess everywhere. I've worked in a fab shop where we had both 4x6 and bigger saw going all the time and neither ran oil. I guess if you are running at higher speeds but if speed is your thing then get a cold saw like has been mentioned. Modern saw blades are much tougher than they used to be. I get years out of both horiz and vert bi metal blades by Starrett or Lenox. I have seen a rotating brush close to the blade guides to keep swarf out of guides and wheels on the horiz but never seen the need for it on mine. The vert it try and keep the swarf out of it to keep off the rubber tires to keep the swarf from embedding in them. We use SoniCare toothbrushes and I got the bright idea to mod the dead ones. Instead of throwing them away I cut them down and glue the head close to the base. The base has super powerful magnets in them so the brush can be stuck anywhere. I have two on the vert saw brushing off swarf the tires and one on my carriage of my lathe cleaning swarf off the lead screw.


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## wachuko (Jan 10, 2020)

C-Bag, good to know... yes, his machine was pretty big... nothing like what I am getting from HF.  Thank you for sharing the knowledge.


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