# Fixing the rear leadscrew bearing on an Atlas 10" lathe



## ScrapMetal (Jan 11, 2012)

You did a nice job there Jim, including the drawings and write-up.  It still could be a great help for the guys who don't have the part readily available.

-Ron


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## joesmith (Jan 21, 2012)

Nice work.  I too made this part for my 12" Atlas about 4 yrs ago.  I followed a drawing I found on the net.  I machined the outside from a block of aluminum and machined the bronze bushing from 660 bronze stock.  I used a small brass screw for the pin.  It worked fine.  I later purchased an original part.  It had a slopp fit on the leadscrew so I continued to use the one I made.  It was on the lathe when I sold it.

BTW I enjoyed your pics of the work you did on the Horizontal will.  I have a chance to trade for a small one.  It will be a new experience for me.

Joe


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## pdentrem (Jan 22, 2012)

The original on my lathe had been broken sometime in the past. It had been brazed back together. 

I did cut the lead screw about 3" from the gearbox and installed a sleeve and a shear pin on both sides of the cut. Fortunately I had not sheared the pins, they were just 1/8" aluminium rod not steel.


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## delkeen (Mar 6, 2012)

*good two piece approach to the lead screw bearing replacement*

Hi,

I was pleased to find your description of the lead screw bearing repair.  Years ago, I cobbled together a "pinned" sleeve for my Atlas Craftsman 12 X 36 lathe (3/4 inch lead screw).  I shared the idea on a forum, and the gentleman whose site you referenced picked up on the idea and posted it!  At that time, I had used a bent piece of aluminum to hold the bronze bushing, and had to put some shims behind the aluminum to get it to locate properly.  I used a pop rivet to hold the sleeve in position.

Anyway...recently, I've gotten back to using the lathe, and also added a Grizzly G0704 mill to my equipment.  With mill in hand, and some aluminum stock that had been bored for a 3/4 inch bronze bushing, I set to work to make a new one.

The key feature that I used (that was not described in the reference) was that the 3/4 inch bushing (with an o.d. of 1 inch) actually had a second 1/2 inch i.d. bronze bushing pressed into it.  

I used that same feature again with the new housing I made (just today).  So, the bushings are a slip fit in the aluminum block housing, and are held in place by a pin (this time, I used a clipped aluminum nail that I had on hand rather than a rivet.  Again, the nail/rivet is inserted in a hole through the housing and into the 3/4 inch bushing (actually, I used two sections of 3/4 inch bushing, with one 1/2 inch bushing inside of them both).  

The benefit was that I didn't have to turn down that pinned washer at the end of the lead screw.

This fabrication is much more stable than the last one, and has better alignment.  But I used the lathe a fair amount after the first repair.

I trust you'll have good success with your design as well.

Thanks for sharing,

delkeen


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## Randy (Jan 1, 2013)

Hi Delkeen!
I am new here and getting my old Atlas 10f up and running. I want to try and make a new lead screw bearing. Since I don;t have acess to a mill I was thinking of using a solid AL block??  I was a little confused by reading your description.  If you could help me?  you used two bronze bearing?? one inside the other??   A photo would be great!!!
Thanks Again,
Randy in Fl


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## bluedxj (Jan 1, 2013)

cool fix i just went out and looked at mine and it too had a home made replacement made by someone in the past very similar to yours but made of steel.


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