# My Precision Mathews PM1340GT Arrival



## zmotorsports

Well it was a long wait but my Precision Mathews PM1340GT lathe arrived yesterday morning and all is well thus far.  The truck driver was able to back right up to my shop door and delivered the lathe without incident.  

I do have one question though, why is it that EVERY lift gate truck I have seen has the lift gates sloping so severely away from the truck?  You would think that in this day and age a lift gate could be fabricated with some preload in it or at bare minimum some adjustment to compensate over time.  This thing had to be 4+ inches lower at the rear than at the front of the lift gate.  Four inches is a huge amount in only a 5' deep lift gate.  The driver about gave me a heart attack, he knew what he was doing but it still got my heart beating.  He wheeled the crate to the edge of the lift gate and just when my son and I jumped thinking it was going off the gate the driver spun the pallet jack steer wheels 90 degrees and it skidded to a stop right where it needed to. I bet it was less than a minute and a half from the time the driver stepped into the back of the box van the the pallet was on the ground.

The driver was AWESOME!!  I asked if he minded giving me a moment to open the crate and ensure that everything was in the crate that was supposed to be and in proper order as well as make note of which end was the headstock and if he would mine dropping it right near its final resting place.  He said no problem.

After tipping the driver and BSing for a few minutes with him, he left and I commenced opening the crate.  My son and his buddies head up in the hills and have bonfires once in a while on weekends and he was drooling over all the nice wood for this weekends activities.






Top of crate and plastic removed.  





I will tell you that I was very impressed with how the lathe was crated and packaged.  The wood used for the crate was very solid and didn't have boards missing nor built cheap by any means.  Heavy clear plastic covered the entire machine as well as all unpainted surfaces liberally coated with cosmoline.

The stand is very heavy duty and well fabricated.  My previous machine had a fair stand but it was a little lighter duty than I wanted and I figured if this wasn't up to my expectations I would just fabricate a heavy duty one rather than put up with it like I did with my last one.  Not so, the stand is made of heavy gauge steel and very solid.  I bolted the lathe down and installed the TECO adjustable mounts and set it fairly close to its final resting spot so I could begin the wiring.

Here is a shot of the electrical just for reference.  They did an excellent job of not only using high quality contactors but the wiring is very well labeled and routed.





I ordered the 220-volt 3PH version and will be using a Hitachi WJ200 VFD for my single phase to three-phase as well as speed control.  I had already hooked up the 220VAC line voltage from my breaker panel to the VFD prior to the lathes' arrival so I then hooked up the 3 phase going from the VFD directly to the motor, bypassing all of the electronics that came with the lathe.  I used 3/4" sealtite to run from my NEMA 1 enclosure to the motor.










Once I had the load side of the VFD wired up I ran the lathe just long enough to confirm it ran and then I would proceed to wire up the control side.  Oh, and it runs very smooth and quiet although I only tried a few different gear/speed configurations so far.





I removed the front control panel to change some wiring as well as add my potentiometer for speed control and a toggle switch for my JOG feature.  Upon removal I saw the felt material which captures and slowly releases lubrication for the Norton style QCGB.  It is a drip system that saturates the felt and then drips down onto the gears below.  The only drawback to this system is that they always drip.  At least they will drip whatever you add as far as lubrication.  On our one at work I cut a piece of absorbent pad and keep it under the QCGB.  When it gets nasty looking I replace it.  It sucks seeing that pad there but it is better than having oil drip and run around the base of the headstock in the chip tray.

Here is the felt material.





This piece is mounted to the bottom of the switch/control panel and the black rubber plug is where the oil is squirted in to saturate the felt and lubricate the QCGB.  I am holding it up in the picture but it is positioned flat under the control panel when fastened to the lathe.





Old/new contactors removed from the electrical box on the rear of the lathe just above the motor.





This is what the front of my panel now looks like.  I added the two position toggle switch and potentiometer and labeled them.





Backside of my panel showing my additional wiring meshed with the OEM wiring.  I tried to use as much of the original wiring as possible and the 10-wire 22-gauge wire loom that I added looks nearly identical to the original wire loom.





Here is my wire loom for the potentiometer and toggle switch run parallel to the OEM wire loom.





Here is my wiring completed with the exception of the labeling.  I will add that once I update my wiring schematic and finalize everything.  It was getting late last night and I had worked on it for well over 8-hours already and I am only 92.4% sure it is 100% correct.:think1:  I will double check everything this evening before programming the VFD and firing up.  The only part of the original electrical that I used was the step down transformer (220VAC to 24VAC) so I could power the nice halogen light that came with the "preferred package".





Here is the control wiring run to the VFD inside the NEMA 1 enclosure along with the stress reliefs for the wiring creating a nice, clean looking installation once the enclosure is closed.





Only two wires will be behind the lathe when it is slid into position and I left enough slack in the wiring just in case I ever need to pull the lathe away from the wall to work on anything.  Hopefully that will never happen.  You can also see the light mounted on the back side of the backsplash and how I used a small frame clamp to hold the wiring and kept everything tied up and tidy going into the electrical box.





Sitting in position and roughly leveled with my 2' carpenters level.  Once I verify everything it is working with the controls and I am done programming the VFD I will move on to fine tuning the leveling and commence cleaning the cosmoline from the machine as well as final setup and break-in.





Now for overall thoughts on the PM1340GT.  This may be a bit premature because I have not actually "used" the machine yet.  However, once I got it on the stand and completely uncrated I wanted to put my hands all over it.  I love the feel of the screws on this thing.  They are amazingly smooth and just flow when turning the handles/dials.  Even with the machine coated in that greasy cosmoline I have a good feel for the overall quality of this lathe.  I can honestly say that so far I am impressed and I had my expectations set pretty high.  I put a dial indicator on all the axis to compare accuracy between the dials and the indicator.  They are spot on, thousandth for thousandth.  I went quarter turn, half turn and full turn on the crossslide and compound slide and they are spot on.  The compound slide is in .001" increments and the cross slide is indicated on the dial to represent total diameter of material removal.  This will take a bit of getting used to but it is accurate with the dial indicator.  I am used to our lathe at work which is actual movement of the cross slide, not how much total material is being removed by diameter.  Again, no big deal as I am sure it will just take some getting used to and making the switch in my head.  The important thing is that it IS very accurate according to a test indicator, we will see on material removal how accurate it is when I start making chips.

The gearbox shift detents are very crisp and positive.  The levers move very easily and freely.  A simple movement of the chuck and the gear levers switch/change very easily and crisply snap into the detents.  The leadscrew to feedrod lever and the forward/reverse lever are the same way, nothing out of the norm there.  The belt on the step pulley is very tight but like all belts I am sure it will loosen up a bit once it is run in.  It actually appears to be a good quality belt though, unlike some of the junk belts that I have seen on other import equipment.

Matt does a great job of providing a packing list with your name, order number, voltage/phase and options ordered.  The checklist is noted with whether the options are merely packaged or installed on the equipment.  I will admit the owners manual could be better but that is more than likely a language issue vs. anything else.  In the back of the manual there are parts breakdowns, wiring schematic (not that mine will resemble that now) and the final pages include tolerances and how to measure them.

Again, it may be a bit premature and I will post up final opinions once I get some actual chip making time on the machine, however, my first impressions are that this is an extremely nice and well built lathe for the money.  The fit and finish of the machine right down to the controls, handles, dials, levers and knobs is high quality and actually better than I had expected. The gradations marked into the cross slide, tailstock and compound slide are all very well marked and numbered.  The PM1340GT is hands down nicer than the 20+ year old Taiwanese lathe we have at work and so far I am very impressed.

Mike.


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## Cheeseking

Looks really nice and thanks for the extensive initial review.  Congrats and now have fun with it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## drs23

Can't wait to see chips flying! Great documentation of the set up Mike.


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## zmotorsports

Thanks guys.  I can't wait to actually be able to have more/better feedback on the lathe after some use. 

Mike.


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## catoctin

Very clean wiring job Mike.  Can't to see you get it running.

Thanks,
-Joe


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## zmotorsports

Thanks Joe, I appreciate that.

Mike.


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## Smudgemo

Nice write-up, Mike.  Super-clean wiring job, too.  That's something I can never make happen for some reason.  Correct, but not all that clean..

Anyhow, I'd like to hear more about the VFD/3Ph setup.  I see the option on the spec sheet, but no costs given.  How slow you can go and whether you'd go that route again once you get some time in.    

I'd also like to know what sort of jaw setup the 3 jaw chuck has.

Thanks,
Ryan


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## zmotorsports

Smudgemo said:


> Nice write-up, Mike.  Super-clean wiring job, too.  That's something I can never make happen for some reason.  Correct, but not all that clean..
> 
> Anyhow, I'd like to hear more about the VFD/3Ph setup.  I see the option on the spec sheet, but no costs given.  How slow you can go and whether you'd go that route again once you get some time in.
> 
> I'd also like to know what sort of jaw setup the 3 jaw chuck has.
> 
> Thanks,
> Ryan



Thanks Ryan.  I don't know how much you know about VFDs, but they are a very simple, efficient way of going from single to three phase vs. the old days of rotary phase converters where you have to upsize the motors as well as consume energy and maintain another motor that simply just idles along performing no actual work.

VFD's are not new, however, they are only recently being used more frequently and the prices have come down a lot in the past four/five years where they are a very viable option.  On a lathe where you are going to be spinning it at quite low RPM's on occasion, there is an inherent trait caused by the spacing of the frequency of the 60 hertz from your electrical service (50 hertz Europe).  

The basics of how they function are by first converting to DC through a series of rectifiers and since DC is easier to control, this is where the frequency is chopped up and/or modified based on what the parameters are set at or requested.  The power is then inverted back to AC in a three 120-overlapping cycles which comes out as 3-phase.  This power is delivered in a much smoother and consistent manner than single phase.  One of the complaints of running a lathe at low RPM for things like threading is that the 60 pulses per second can be transmitted into the work and actually cause a ripple or wave in the work.  By converting to the 120-degree overlapping current it is delivered much more smoothly and negates any of the side effects of low RPM pulsing.

There is also an argument for power savings, however, myself I have only seen a noticeable power reduction on things like HVAC condenser fans where you can reduce the frequency when the demand is low so you don't need to spin them as fast and can consume less energy.  For things like powering lathes and mills, I would be hard pressed to see much of a drop in energy consumption because for the most part you will be running at 60 hz plus or minus a small amount.

Personally, you don't want to spin them too slow because the motors have a fan that controls heat, when you are working the motor and have the frequency turned down too far you can actually cause damage to the motor.  I plan on running mine @ 60 hz for the majority of the time and then just "tweak" it either direction by around 15 hz or so to avoid any damage and mainly just to fill the gap between available speeds in the gearbox.  You should still use the gearboxes for speed changes for torque multiplication on these machines. 

As far as initial costs, you can pick up a good VFD to power a 3HP motor or less for under $300.00. They can get expensive when you go up from there though.

As far as chucks, I really can't say too much at this point as the 3-jaw is covered in cosmoline and I haven't had a chance to clean it or play with it yet but first impression is that it is not a junk chuck.  Neither is the 4-jaw that came with it.  I did play a bit with the 4-jaw on the bench yesterday and it is smooth with no catches and the machining appears to be very nice.  I will know more when I am able to run the lathe and throw some indicators on the spindle/chuck.

Hope that helps and didn't confuse the hell out of ya.

Mike.


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## Smudgemo

zmotorsports said:


> Hope that helps and didn't confuse the hell out of ya.
> 
> Mike.



Nope, makes sense.  More than I knew about VFDs thanks, but I have one on the mill already and was wondering whether it's an upgrade I'd want to include for this lathe.  The VFD for the mill was $320, but a 1ph upgrade was $170 - hardly a tough choice.  What's the cost of switching to a 3ph motor on this machine?  It's not in the specs that I can see.

-Ryan


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## zmotorsports

Smudgemo said:


> Nope, makes sense.  More than I knew about VFDs thanks, but I have one on the mill already and was wondering whether it's an upgrade I'd want to include for this lathe.  The VFD for the mill was $320, but a 1ph upgrade was $170 - hardly a tough choice.  What's the cost of switching to a 3ph motor on this machine?  It's not in the specs that I can see.
> 
> -Ryan



The cost is the same price for the lathe whether in single or three phase configuration, he orders them specifically by motor spec from the factory.  The difference will be the cost of the VFD and if you choose to have Quality Machine Tool install the VFD you will see under options that it is $995.00 for factory installed VFD.

I chose to order the 3PH machine, purchased the VFD and installed it myself vs. spend another $995.00.

That said, I think the 3PH motor option on a lathe will make a bigger difference in machining quality than on a mill.  I opted to order my mill in 1PH configuration and still have the Vari-speed feature vs. going 3PH and step pulley.  The step pulley system is great and bulletproof but for my use being more prototype or one-off type of work, I find myself changing speeds a lot and really liked the variable speed feature for the milling machine.  There is a lot of information to support the fact that with the Bridgeport variable speed option that eventually I will have to replace the bushings under the sheaves but after talking with Matt @ QMT and his feelings on the intended use, I think it will be quite a few years before I have to replace any bushings and if/when that time comes, I will address it then.

Mike.


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## Havoc

Wow,

Mike Awesome write up, I like your JOG feature...will probably have to add that. Congrats, I just got mine up on the stand, wont be home till next week so you"ll probably be making chips before I get mine clean up.

Danny


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## zmotorsports

Thanks Danny.  I am trying to have it operational by the weekend.  It arrived yesterday morning around 10:00 am, I had a couple of errands to run before I was able to start on it and I had it completely wired and set in place by 9:00 last night.

Hopefully tonight I can play with the VFD and start cleaning and put my shop back together.  I had to move everything around to get it in as it is clear to the front of my shop.  I had to move the motorcycle lifts, welding table, bandsaws and now I can put everything back in place. 

Mike.


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## jbolt

Congrats Mike! I am SOOOOOO envious of your new lathe. Looks like the wait was worth it.

Jay


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## Ray C

Glad it's all working-out for you, Mike.

Be safe and have fun...


Ray


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## zmotorsports

jbolt said:


> Congrats Mike! I am SOOOOOO envious of your new lathe. Looks like the wait was worth it.
> 
> Jay





Ray C said:


> Glad it's all working-out for you, Mike.
> 
> Be safe and have fun...
> 
> 
> Ray



Thanks guys, I appreciate it.

Mike.


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## george wilson

Don't be too concerned about your QC box dripping oil. Even the "sealed" ones still LEAK anyway. Why not put a shallow baking pan under it,rather than a pad,which will get messy? Bridgeport milling machines also have a "total loss" oiling system in their spindles. You put oil in the top,and it comes slowly out of the bottom.

About the dials on the crossfeed that show the TRUE amount of metal removed from the diameter: When I was young,they called those type dials "continental system",and the others "American"(where you always had to divide by 1/2 to get the amount of movement you really wanted on the crossfeed. I'll take the continental system any day. My HLVH,though made in 1964,has continental dials on it,for which I am grateful.


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## zmotorsports

OK, update from last nights work.  

I mentioned that I was getting tired the night before after working on it all day so I am using that as my excuse.:whistle:  I got home from work yesterday and again, I was 92.4% sure that I was 100% correct on my wiring.  I programmed the VFD and fired her up.  I did have to tweak some of the parameters in the VFD to my liking so I spent about 45-minutes or so "fine tuning" the VFD and playing with it.  I then hit my JOG function that I was so proud of and nothing.  Went through my written and scribbled on wiring schematic that I sketched out previously and everything appeared to be correct even the couple of things that I had to change on the fly when wiring it.

Out came the voltmeter and BINGO, found my problem.  When I was assembling my diodes the night before, I used a connector that the diode barely fit into to not only protect the diode but also not allow any non-insulated portion to be able to touch anything and short out.  I assembled the diodes on the bench and then wrote with a Sharpie the diode symbol so I would know anode from cathode when installing them into the electrical panel.  Well dummy me, wrote the symbol correctly on the connector, however I installed the diode backwards in the connector itself.:banghead:  Therefore the 24VDC was not getting to my toggle switch for the JOG function.  I cut it out, LABELED IT CORRECTLY and reinstalled it.  Everything worked perfectly.

I then commenced the joyous task of cleaning all of the cosmoline from the lathe.  Actually it really was not as bad as I thought it would be.  I used some WD-40 in a spray bottle and would spray some on a paper towel and with a little scrubbing it came right off.  The scraping and the ground ways on this lathe are top shelf all the way.  The more I cleaned the more happy I became with my choice in lathes.  Also the smoother everything was moving once all of the cosmoline was coming off.  After a couple of hours of cleaning I hit all of the oil ports with some lube and lubed the ways and all the movement became even better.  The carriage, tailstock, cross slide and compound movements are very fluid and smooth.  The dials move very nicely on the handles, the chuck works great and the external gears run smoother.  






A few dots of cleaner/cosmoline mix splattered up the back splash that need to be wiped off. I know it is going to get dirty over time but I want to keep my new purchase as clean as possible as long as possible.










Overview of how she looks in her new home.










Once everything was cleaned I ran the lathe in each gear for 10+ minutes or so to break in the gearbox.  While the lathe was running, I began putting my shop back together.  I had to move my welding bench, motorcycle lifts and a few other items back into position and a general overall cleanup of the shop as it was driving me nucking futs having everything in such dis-organization.

Once the machine had run for around an hour and a half, a gear at a time I decided to break out my Starret machinist level and dial her in.  I got it dead nuts level in both planes.










Also while it was running I cut a piece of neoprene/rubber material that I had for the top of the headstock.





Also while it was running/breaking in I took a piece of .125" 6061 aluminum and made a small bracket to hold my two drill chucks and live center and bolted it to the back of the splashguard.






On my previous machine I just had my toolholders sitting in the chip tray within fairly easy reach and although they were ok there, I hated that they kept getting covered in swarf and when switching out toolholders I had to brush the chips off prior to installing on the QCTP.  However, if didn't bother me enough to do anything about it though so I just used it as is.  Well I wanted to do something a little nice on this lathe and keep them out of the swarf and chip.  I had watched a youtube video a few months back where a guy used a piece of Unistrut attached to his backsplash for the toolholders to store on.  I thought it was a great idea and they all looked like they were in easy reach.  Well you know what they say, imitation is the most sincere form of flattery so I decided to copy it.  

I am going to run and grab some Unistrut and some nut plates today and install a toolholder on the backsplash.  Then hopefully I will make my first cuts on the lathe either tonight or first thing in the morning.  I am going to chuck up my test bar and see how true this thing is.  The sad part is I won't be able to use my new Dorian toolpost or Aloris toolholders until my mill shows up because I need to mill the "T" for the toolpost.  We have been unable to use any machines at my place of employment for the past couple of months as we have a new boss and won't allow that any longer.

Mike.


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## zmotorsports

george wilson said:


> Don't be too concerned about your QC box dripping oil. Even the "sealed" ones still LEAK anyway. Why not put a shallow baking pan under it,rather than a pad,which will get messy? Bridgeport milling machines also have a "total loss" oiling system in their spindles. You put oil in the top,and it comes slowly out of the bottom.
> 
> About the dials on the crossfeed that show the TRUE amount of metal removed from the diameter: When I was young,they called those type dials "continental system",and the others "American"(where you always had to divide by 1/2 to get the amount of movement you really wanted on the crossfeed. I'll take the continental system any day. My HLVH,though made in 1964,has continental dials on it,for which I am grateful.



Thanks George, good to know.  I didn't realize they had a certain name for them.  It must be the "continental system" that I am used to and my new lathe has the "American system" where the dial is marked in total amount of material removed from the diameter of the material.

I was talking with one of my co-workers who is heavy into building guns.  He told me that his brother-in-law that does all of his gunsmithing/machining didn't know that lathes came any other way than the "American system" as all of the lathes he had used were that way.

Mike.


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## John Hasler

george wilson said:


> About the dials on the crossfeed that show the TRUE amount of metal removed from the diameter: When I was young,they called those type dials "continental system",and the others "American"(where you always had to divide by 1/2 to get the amount of movement you really wanted on the crossfeed. I'll take the continental system any day. My HLVH,though made in 1964,has continental dials on it,for which I am grateful.



I want my dials to tell me how far I've moved the tool.  Amount of metal removed from the diameter with the compound at 90 degrees is not always the number of interest.  When it is I can divide by two in my head (but I really should have worked it all out in advance anyway).


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## zmotorsports

John Hasler said:


> I want my dials to tell me how far I've moved the tool.  Amount of metal removed from the diameter with the compound at 90 degrees is not always the number of interest.  When it is I can divide by two in my head (but I really should have worked it all out in advance anyway).



I can't honestly say which method I "prefer" as the only one I am familiar with is the "continental method".  I have not used one until now that tells me the total diameter removed, "American method".  I may like it better in the end, however, I won't have a definitive answer to that until after I get some time on the new lathe.  It does make sense though the more I think about it that it is generally total diameter that you working with.  

Time will tell.

Mike.


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## darkzero

I've never heard continental vs American dials but I'm still young. My old machine shop instructor (retired now) called them direct & indirect dials, that's what I see them being referred to online also. Direct dials indicate total off the diameter & indirect indicates off the radius. Most of the lathes there were old American iron & there were lathes that had both, just don't remember which ones.

I also prefer indirect, the cross feed dial indicating how much I am actually moving the tool. Since I got the DRO I don't really use the cross feed dial that much, just for reference. On my DRO I can switch back & forth, the modes are called diameter & radius (true lathe DRO & not the universal/mill type). I use radius for grooving, chamfering, threading, etc to reference DOC & diameter mode which is obvious. But the way I use diameter mode is I take a skim cut & measure the diameter. I then enter the measured diameter into my DRO then just cut to the targeted diameter reading the DRO & use the cross feed dial for DOC reference. Can also enter in the targeted diameter into the DRO after a skim cut, then cut till the DRO reads 0 but I never use it that way.

Oh, congrats on the lathe delivery finally! Nice setup!


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## wrmiller

Lathe I learned on and the one I have both are direct. I'd get all screwed up if I had to start thinking radius instead of diameter...

Bill


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## John Hasler

wrmiller19 said:


> Lathe I learned on and the one I have both are direct. I'd get all screwed up if I had to start thinking radius instead of diameter...
> 
> Bill



I know it's the established convention but that terminology seems backwards to me.  I would have taken "direct" to mean that the dial directly reads the motion of the slide.

At any rate, it's confusing to have two conventions.


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## johnnyc14

Congrats on the new lathe Mike. It looks very similar in design to my CanTec 1440. I just lay a paper towel folded in quarters below the gear box to catch to oil drippings, and toss it every few days.

John


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## zmotorsports

darkzero said:


> Oh, congrats on the lathe delivery finally! Nice setup!



Thanks Will, I appreciate that.

Mike.


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## wrmiller

John Hasler said:


> I would have taken "direct" to mean that the dial directly reads the motion of the slide.



Agreed. But I gave up trying to apply logic to machining when my friend tried explaining to me years ago why CNC memory was measured in 'feet'. Wow... :nuts:

Bill


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## zmotorsports

johnnyc14 said:


> Congrats on the new lathe Mike. It looks very similar in design to my CanTec 1440. I just lay a paper towel folded in quarters below the gear box to catch to oil drippings, and toss it every few days.
> 
> John



Thanks John.  Yeah, it's not that big of a deal.  I will just cut a small absorbent pad and place it under.  For now I just have a folded paper towel as well.

Mike.


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## John Hasler

wrmiller19 said:


> Agreed. But I gave up trying to apply logic to machining when my friend tried explaining to me years ago why CNC memory was measured in 'feet'. Wow... :nuts:
> 
> Bill



Because the paper tape was measured in feet, of course.  Before CNC came NC...


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## nickmckinney

Looking good, I like the chuck holder too, I will be doing that to mine as well.


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## zmotorsports

nickmckinney said:


> Looking good, I like the chuck holder too, I will be doing that to mine as well.



Thanks Nick.  I started on my toolholder rack tonight.  I hope to finish it up tomorrow and make my first chips with it.

Mike.


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## zmotorsports

OK, following up after a long weekend of getting it completely up and running.

First off, Friday evening I noticed a large amount of black dust/particles coming from under the headstock/motor end of the lathe.  I removed the cover to discover the belt had pretty much self destructed.  I was not totally surprised by this as on my last machine the belts were one of the first parts I replaced as well and found the machine to be a completely new sounding and feeling machine. The belt on the PM1340GT originally appeared to be a decent looking belt, however, after only approx. 2 hours on it while breaking it in and running it for 5 minutes here and there it was toast.

I called my local NAPA and had them cross the part number off of the old belt over.  They got one in for me within a couple of hours.  I replaced the belt with NAPA part # 5L280W.  The "W" is for heavy duty.






Here is what the OEM belt looked like after approx. 2 hours of total run time.





After replacing with new belt.





I confirmed the pulleys were aligned properly prior to running the machine at all and also re-confirmed that everything was in proper alignment when I detected the belt issue.  I also double checked again after installing the new belt.  The PM1340GT is a very quiet and smooth running lathe, however, after installing the new belt it was even quieter.

I then commenced checking all of the preliminary tests to ensure the lathes' setup and accuracy after traveling half way around the world.  I started by checking the chucks and the repeatability as far as swapping chucks on and off of the spindle.  I noted the position for the 3-jaw and my 6-jaw so when swapping them around I can be assured the accuracy is repeatable.  I stamped a 3 and a 6 in the spindle to orientate either chuck.  The original 3-jaw I was able to get to repeat within .0005" each time.  Especially once I did a thorough cleaning of the inside of the chuck and the nose of the spindle taper.  My Gator 6-jaw set-tru I was able to repeat at approx. .0006" in about 4 times of removal and installation.















Just want ahead and left my Gator 6-jaw on it for now.





Once I got the chucks completed I turned a piece of 1.5" aluminum 7" long to check headstock squareness and ensure it is parallel with the bed.  

My first chips, facing a piece of 1.5" 60601 aluminum.





Next turning approx. 7 inches.





Once I got it cleaned up I took a light cut of about .004" and took a reading with a micrometer.  Started @ .0021" in 7" length.





I just barely "tweaked" the outboard adjustment bolt on the back of the headstock and took another light cut of approx. .004".  Ended dead nuts on in 7 inches.





Making my test bar to check alignment.

























Boring the ID.





Shooting for about .0015" interference fit.





Parting off @ .875" wide.





Parts waiting to be pressed together.





Test bar completed and ready for use.





Light cut on both rings.  Tailstock end.





Headstock end.





Dial indicator on tailstock to measure movement.





Final measurement at headstock end.





Tailstock end.  Not bad, .0001" in 14".  I'll take it.





My mess/chips from a few hours of machining.  Now the lathe is set up and ready to go to work.  I will change the oil in the next day or two and it will be ready to roll.





I also decided to go out yesterday and make a few modifications to fit my needs/wants.  I had always wanted to fabricate a toolholder rack for my previous machine but never got around to it.  I thought if I don't do it now, I probably won't so I took a few hours yesterday and customized my machine.

I cut some Unistrut and some aluminum pieces to construct a rack to hold my Aloris BXA toolholders.  This will be mounted to the top of the backsplash providing easy reach and quick tool changes.





Mocked up on the bench.





Unistrut mounted on the top of the backsplash.





Toolholders mounted.





I also decided to fabricate a place to store my "T" handles where they were within easy reach yet out of the way.  I cut some 1" OD 4130 chromoly tube that I had lying around and TIG welded them to a couple of 1" wide straps.  





Thanks to Will (aka Darkzero) for doing the legwork and finding some paint that matches very closely to the PM equipment.





Here is the part # from Rustoleum if anyone else needs it.





Painted and mounted to the back of the headstock.  I used existing screws from the electrical box.





This is what she looked like at the end of the weekend.  Ready for a long life of hard work.





I will post up some more thoughts/opinions as I get a few more hours on it.

Mike.


----------



## Havoc

Mike,

Holly crap, that is so cool, do you mind if I copy all of your set up? When my lathe grow up it want to be just like yours.....

Danny


----------



## zmotorsports

Havoc said:


> Mike,
> 
> Holly crap, that is so cool, do you mind if I copy all of your set up? When my lathe grow up it want to be just like yours.....
> 
> Danny




Thanks Danny.  No I don't mind one bit, that's why I posted up the pics.  As far as the toolholder rack, I honestly cannot take credit for that.  I was researching it a few months ago and stumbled across a video on youtube that showed it.  Can't remember who it was but I liked it and decided to copy it.  I hated how I had the ones on my previous lathe sitting in the chip tray and having to clean around them afterwards.

This should be much more user friendly and definitely easier to clean up around.  I can have the entire lathe cleaned in less than 5-minutes now by having items up and out of the way.

Mike.


----------



## sd624

Did PM reimburse you for the belt?


----------



## dave2176

5 minute cleanup? I'm either too messy or slow at cleaning. I can't get it done in 30. :thinking:

 The machine looks great.

Dave


----------



## drs23

Fantastic job Mike. Well done!  :greenwithenvy:


----------



## zmotorsports

sd624 said:


> Did PM reimburse you for the belt?



No.  However, I did not ask.  Had I requested a new belt from Matt, I am sure he would replace it but I don't want the same thing on there.  Honestly that was a good $14.00 spent on a name brand, quality v-belt.



dave2176 said:


> 5 minute cleanup? I'm either too messy or slow at cleaning. I can't get it done in 30. :thinking:
> 
> The machine looks great.
> 
> Dave



Maybe I exagerated a slight bit.  It may be closer to 10-minutes but definitely no longer than that.  I pull out the large pieces/shavings with my chip hook while placing the garbage can directly under the chip tray.  I then grab the shop-vac and suck up the small particles.  Grab a shop rag and wipe the cutting oil off of the backsplash/trip tray.  Then as a last ditch effort for chip removal is to hit the chip tray with a slight amount of compressed air prior to sweeping up the floor.  Hell, it probably too me longer to type it than to actually clean up.

I have always tried to keep my machining/fabricating equipment clean because I hate working in a messy shop.  However, I will admit on my last lathe, there were times that I didn't clean up one mess before I started the next.  I have made a conscious decision to NOT do that with my new equipment.



drs23 said:


> Fantastic job Mike. Well done!  :greenwithenvy:



Thanks, I appreciate that.

Mike.


----------



## Morgan RedHawk

That is a great looking machine and a nice write-up, too!  I hope you will do a similar one when your mill comes in.  Its cool watching people get their new machines and seeing how they set them up...never seem to get tired of it.  Congrats, dude!


----------



## ricsmall

Thats a great looking setup mike! Im gonna have to adopt some (all) of those ideas. I really like my PM1236, though I wish the overhang on the TS was on the HS end like all others Ive seen. Other than that, its perfect, other than the operator of course... Have fun, I think that machine will serve you well.

Richard


----------



## nickmckinney

zmotorsports said:


>




Yes I will have to steal/borrow that tool holder idea..............


----------



## zmotorsports

Morgan RedHawk said:


> That is a great looking machine and a nice write-up, too!  I hope you will do a similar one when your mill comes in.  Its cool watching people get their new machines and seeing how they set them up...never seem to get tired of it.  Congrats, dude!



Thank you.  I will definitely do a similar write-up/review of my mill when it arrives.



ricsmall said:


> Thats a great looking setup mike! Im gonna have to adopt some (all) of those ideas. I really like my PM1236, though I wish the overhang on the TS was on the HS end like all others Ive seen. Other than that, its perfect, other than the operator of course... Have fun, I think that machine will serve you well.
> 
> Richard



Thanks Richard.  I appreciate that.



nickmckinney said:


> Yes I will have to steal/borrow that tool holder idea..............



I don't mind one bit.  I just wish they were my ideas, I copied them from the internet as well.  The toolholder rack looked like a nice addition.

Mike.


----------



## Smudgemo

zmotorsports said:


> Thank you.  I will definitely do a similar write-up/review of my mill when it arrives.



Do something cool with it.  My setup is okay, but I'm better at copying other people's ideas when it comes to this sort of thing.  I also wouldn't mind a little more detail when you have time/interest in sharing how you handled your chucks to arrive at your optimal orientation.  Thanks!

-Ryan


----------



## zmotorsports

OK, another quick update on my Precision Mathews PM1340GT arrival and review.

Last night my McMaster Carr order showed up.  I had to order a few items for a paying job I have coming in so I thought I would throw a couple of small items of my own on the order to save freight.  One thing that I don't like is the socket head capscrew for the carriage lock.  I would rather have a dedicated handle there so I don't have to reach for an allen wrench or "T" handle to tighten it.

I ordered one of these adjustable handles for the carriage lock.  McMaster Carr part # 6848K51 which measures M8x1.25x50MM.  It is 2.5" from center of bolt to end of the ball on the handle, plenty long enough to tighten the carriage and lock it solid, yet small enough to merely bump it loose and in less than half a turn completely free the carriage so there is absolutely no drag on the bed.






I also had to machine a small spacer to compensate for the depth of the recessed hole in the apron which allowed the head of the socket head capscrew to sit flush or slightly below the surface.  I machined the spacer to a height of .250" so the handle would clear the apron surface yet still be low enough to allow the compound slide to swing over the handle with room to spare.

Machining the small spacer.





Here is the spacer machined and installed on the bolt prior to installation.





This is the original bolt for the carriage lock that I replaced.





Handle installed along with spacer.  Works great.  










After doing the little carriage lock mod, I decided it was time to change the lubrication in both the apron and the headstock gearbox.  I have around 10 hours of actual run time on the lathe now so I wanted to get the break-in lube out and put fresh in.

This is the bolt that you remove to drain the lubrication from the apron.





I didn't take any pictures of the drain plug on the headstock gearbox but it easy to spot as it is located just behind the gears under the removable side cover/gear cover.  Pull the plug and lay a funnel or piece of cardboard under the gearbox to avoid getting oil all over your wiring and down the side of the lathe and allow it to drain into a suitable container.  Once drained, apply some teflon to the plug and reinstall.

Now remove the small plastic plug on the top of the gearbox and add your new lubrication. Matt recommends ISO68/AW68 or Mobil DTE hydraulic oils in both the headstock and apron gearboxes.  I used AW68 medium/heavy hydraulic oil from my local NAPA store.  The headstock took 5-pints and the apron took 20 ounces to put the level in the middle of the sightglasses.

Overall, I think the PM1340GT is a fantastic lathe and I am more than pleased so far.  It is an extremely accurate machine and a joy to operate.  I have found myself able to take a light cut, mic the diameter of the part, dial in the amount to remove on the dial and turn to size very accurately.  I have only made a few parts/projects thus far but I have been able to turn to size within .0005" of my target very easily and more importantly, I have been able to repeat those dimensions.

As far as the overall lathe fit, finish and feel, it is just like it states on the QMT website.  It is a very high quality lathe with special attention paid to the overall fit and finish.  The gearbox is extremely quiet for a geared head lathe.  The apron handles and screws are very smooth and fluid in their movements and the dials are spot on accurate.  The gear change handles/controls on the headstock are loosening up slightly after some use although mine were never very hard to turn.  The gears change very easily and the detents are crisp and positive when switching from one gear to another.  The knobs to change between the feedrod and leadscrew as well as the direction of the feedrod/leadscrew are the same way, very crisp and positive when changing.  On occasion you will have to move the chuck back and forth a small amount to get the gears to mesh and allow them to change but that is completely normal on a geared head lathe.

I looked for many months at old used machines before realizing that I could not find what I was looking for.  I opted to look at new import machines as currently if you want a new lathe, an import is your only real option as none are currently being manufactured in the United States, sad but true.  We have gone from a country of innovative creators to a county of consumers but that is another story.  I caught a lot of negativity when I started looking at import machinery but based on the ones that I looked at and was able to put my hands on I feel that the PM1340GT is about as good as anything in this size lathe that is currently available, possibly even in a class of its' own.

I will say that Matt @ Quality Machine Tools has been great to deal with as far as answering any questions, both prior to purchasing the equipment and after putting down the deposit and even after full payment.  He has been quick to respond to emails and if he didn't answer the telephone when I called, I left a message and he ALWAYS returned my calls.

All that said, I could not feel good about giving an honest review without mentioning the long wait time.  If you are looking at purchasing this lathe from QMT, be prepared for an extended wait time as he only gets a few shipments of these Taiwanese machines per year and most are pre-sold at the time the shipment leaves Taiwan.  He seldom has more than a couple that aren't spoken for when the shipment arrives to him in PA.  He gets many more deliveries of the Chinese machines than the Taiwanese so be prepared.  My 8-10 week lead time at time of ordering turned into 22 weeks before arrival.

I hope this review was helpful and provided useful information to anyone who owns one of these lathes or is looking at purchasing one.  

I will also be conducting a similar review of my Precision Mathews PM935TV when it arrives.  Again, it too has been a long wait.  I hope it is every bit the machine that the PM1340Gt is.

Mike.


----------



## rmack898

Nice review Mike, well done.

Now I'm looking forward to you getting your mill almost as much as you are so I can read your review on that machine.


----------



## zmotorsports

Smudgemo said:


> Do something cool with it.  My setup is okay, but I'm better at copying other people's ideas when it comes to this sort of thing.  I also wouldn't mind a little more detail when you have time/interest in sharing how you handled your chucks to arrive at your optimal orientation.  Thanks!
> 
> -Ryan



Sorry Ryan, I had overlooked your question about the chucks.

First and foremost, I removed the 3-jaw chuck and cleaned all of the cosmoline from both it and the spindle itself.  Be especially vigilant in cleaning the taper on the spindle and the corresponding taper inside the back of the backing plate.  The taper is where the chuck actually rides, not the camlocks.  Be certain to place a 2x4 or some other sacrificial material across the bed ways of the lathe.  This is just in case you drop the chuck, it doesn't damage your ways on the lathe. 

I tried the chucks in each of the three positions on the D1-4 camlock spindle.  I chose the position with the least amount of runout to start with.  The 3-jaw that came on the lathe was already in the position with the least amount of runout.  Clamp a good straight piece of steel, preferably some drill rod in the chuck and use a dial indicator to test the runout.  Place the dial indicator fairly close to the chuck to start with as the chuck is what you are actually measure first.

Also, be aware that "how" you mount the chuck on the camlock will have an affect on the runout and especially the repeatability when removing/reinstalling chucks onto the spindle.  I have found that to be consistent I set the chuck into the camlocks and push it onto the spindle as far as possible and as squarely as possible to mate up against the spindle taper.  Then with the other hand I turn one of the camlocks until I "just barely" feel a slight amount of resistance.  Meaning the camlock as barely touched the post on the backing plate.  I then turn to the next camlock and repeat.  I do this with all three so they each have the same amount of "preload" on the camlocks before completely tightening a single one.

I then follow up starting with the same one I originally started with and tighten the camlocks until the mark on the cam is between the two marks on the spindle.  I then run around one more time and check by feel the consistency of the camlocks.  Now chuck up your test bar/drill rod and once you get the position with the least amount of runout mark the chuck and the spindle so you can repeat it.  I mounted/re-mounted my chucks multiple time until I found a procedure that netted me the best accuracy and I could repeat it time and time again.

It really takes longer to explain that to actually perform this task so don't worry about how long it will take between chuck changes.  Once you have the chucks cleaned and orientated on the spindle, if you need to switch over from one chuck to another it is a matter of seconds rather than minutes.  Also, it is a good idea to check this once in a while, especially if you are needing to turn something that is imperative that it is absolutely accurate, then just throw a test bar in and a dial indicator on for verification.

For the Gator 6-jaw and many other chucks that have the set-tru ability, you go through the same process to find the most accurate position, however, you then have the ability to fine tune the chuck onto the backing plate and therefore the spindle centerline by turning one of four separate adjusters that position the chuck similar to setting up a four-jaw.  Just use a good dial indicator and push away from the high readings and move towards the low reading until you are happy with the runout.

I hope that was helpful and what you were asking for.

Mike.


----------



## zmotorsports

rmack898 said:


> Nice review Mike, well done.
> 
> Now I'm looking forward to you getting your mill almost as much as you are so I can read your review on that machine.



Thanks Mac, I appreciate the feedback.

I found a lot of comments about the PM1340GT when I was looking but nothing quite as in depth as what I was looking for.  I hope this is beneficial to anyone else looking at this particular lathe.

Mike.


----------



## Smudgemo

zmotorsports said:


> Sorry Ryan, I had overlooked your question about the chucks.
> 
> I hope that was helpful and what you were asking for.
> 
> Mike.



Yeah, thanks.  I would have been satisfied with with "Tighten the camlocks progressively and check runout in each of the three possible mounting positions."  Having only owned a threaded spindle, I wasn't sure if you meant you took them apart in any way when you went through the process, or did anything more involved.  Makes perfect sense to check this way.  

I will say that I'm now rather curious about the accuracy of my Atlas lathe as I've never checked it other than with a machinist's level.  In case anyone cares to read up a bit, Harold Hall's book "Metal Lathe for Home Machinists" has a section about leveling and aligning the tailstock much like you did that makes a lot more sense to me now.  Tubalcain also has a few videos about it.

I know I've said this before, but you are going to be happy with your choice to get the 935.  How long is that supposed to take?

-Ryan


----------



## zmotorsports

Smudgemo said:


> Yeah, thanks.  I would have been satisfied with with "Tighten the camlocks progressively and check runout in each of the three possible mounting positions."  Having only owned a threaded spindle, I wasn't sure if you meant you took them apart in any way when you went through the process, or did anything more involved.  Makes perfect sense to check this way.
> 
> I will say that I'm now rather curious about the accuracy of my Atlas lathe as I've never checked it other than with a machinist's level.  In case anyone cares to read up a bit, Harold Hall's book "Metal Lathe for Home Machinists" has a section about leveling and aligning the tailstock much like you did that makes a lot more sense to me now.  Tubalcain also has a few videos about it.
> 
> I know I've said this before, but you are going to be happy with your choice to get the 935.  How long is that supposed to take?
> 
> -Ryan



Glad that helped to explain it Ryan.  On my Smithy lathe that I had prior, my chuck had some "catches" or rough spots in it upon arrival.  I took it apart and deburred the scroll, re-lubed and re-assembled it and was quite happy with it afterwards.  I was completely ready to have to do that again with this one, however, it is a nice quality chuck right from the get go.  Just cleaned the cosmoline off and it was ready to use, I honestly wasn't expecting that.

As for my milling machine, I received an email from Matt on Saturday afternoon stating that they are just finishing up the remainder of the 935's and it will be shipped this week for sure.  So far being Wednesday (half the week gone) I have not seen an email with a tracking number, I was kind of hoping to see it next week when I received the email from Matt.  Now not so sure.

Mike.


----------



## zmotorsports

OK, I ran into an issue last night that I thought would be worth mentioning.  I did my first threading on the PM1340GT last night.  I was making some hold down bolts to mount my GMT 5" vise to my PM935TV when it shows up.  I could have made the 1/2-13 threads with a die but hey, that is what I bought the lathe for, right.

The threading dial on the PM1340GT is different than I am used to.  The threading dials I am used to have eight (8) markings, four of them are numbered 1-4 every 90 degrees on the dial.  In between the numbered markings have been a line at 45 degrees.  Usually any number or mark can be engaged for even numbered thread cutting and only using the numbered positions (every 90 degrees) for odd numbered threads.

The threading dial on the PM1340GT shows eight positions and each being numbered 1-8.





By looking at the threading dial chart is shows for 13 TPI you should engage on numbers 1-4.





At first I thought that looked a little suspicious but then again didn't give it is second thought.  I cut my escape groove for the threading tool, marked the area to be threaded and made a scratch pass.  I checked the scratch pass with my thread gauge and everything looked good.  I advanced my compound slide .010" and as the number 1 came around I engaged the half nut.  Same position as the scratch pass.  I didn't plan it that way it was just the first number coming around as I was ready to start the first cut.  I advanced another .010" with the compound and this time number 4 was coming around so I engaged the half nut, and that is where it went to hell.  It cut right across the first pass.  

I double checked the dial, chart and even resorted to getting the manual out (which is not the greatest text) but thought may as well be thorough.  The manual even explains it similar to the style of dial I have used on other lathes.  Here is the quote from the manual: "_To cut threads of an even number per inch.  Close the leadscrew nut as any line on the dial passes the datum mark.  To cut threads of an odd numbers per inch.  Close the leadscrew nut at any numbered line."  _I won't quote the part about fractional threads as that is not relevant to this.

I decided to give it another try but break the threading dial up into quadrants like I am used to which would be every 90-degrees.  This equated to engaging the half nut at positions 1, 3, 5 or 7.  Imagining that the numbers 2, 4, 6 and 8 would be the reference marks located between each of the four numbers.  Voila, works perfect.  I used a test piece of rod and engaged in the odd numbers and the thread turned out great.  I then chose to test a 10 TPI and engaged on any number, that too worked great.

So just for clarification, when threading on the PM1340GT lathe for even numbers you can engage the halfnut on ANY number 1-8 and be safe.  If you are cutting an odd number of threads ONLY engage the halfnut on numbers 1, 3, 5 or 7 (odd numbers).

Here are the two studs after completing my threading.  The one not in the chuck is my first one that I encounted the issue with.  It was early enough in the threading that I didn't want to trash the part so I completed it and it only appears that the first thread got buggered up.





Nut threaded right on nice and smooth.





I hope that helps to clear up any confusion just in case anyone else experiences a similar issue when threading.

On a side note, I also swing my threading dial out of the way so it is not engaged with the leadscrew when not cutting threads.  My son informed me a few years ago when he took a machining course at the local university that the instructor asked that the students do this and I thought it was a good idea to not have the brass threading dial gear running along the leadscrew when it is not needed.  It only takes a second to loosen the socket head cap screw and swing it back into position when you are going to thread so it really is not an inconvenience.






One other thing I forgot to show earlier as a modification/custom touch.  I cut a 1-1/16" combination wrench and TIG welded a 1.5" steel ball to the end of it.  I use this for the nut on top of the Dorian toolpost and added a stud to hang it on within easy reach on the backsplash of the lathe.  The steel ball fits nicely into the palm of my hand and is very comfortable when loosening the toolpost nut.





Here is where I hang it.





I have enjoyed reviewing this lathe and hope that the information has been useful.  

Mike.


----------



## zmotorsports

Also thought I would post up the formulas for my threading.  I am curious as to whether or not they differ from others or not.

First off I start with a major diameter of .005" less than the nominal diameter of the bolt/fastener.  Then for a relief groove I use .613 divided by number of threads per inch and add .0025" or (.613/TPI)+.0025".  

For depth of thread using the compound I us .713 divided by number of threads per inch and then move the crossfeed in .001" to .002" for cleanup cut to form on both edges of the thread.  Expressed as (.713/TPI) plus .001"/.002" crossfeed.  

One area I find a lot of controversy over is the width of the flat at the end of the cutting tool.  I have been using the formula of 1/8 of the pitch or (Pitch/8) but I cannot remember where I picked that up from and have been unable to confirm that.

An example using the formulas for a 1/2-13 thread would be as follows:
Relief groove .0497" or .050" depth.
Outside diameter of .495".  Nominal diameter minus .005", or .500"-.005"= .495"
Compound feed of .055", (.713/13)
Crossfeed cleanup of .001"-.002"

This is with a 60 degree ground cutting tool with a .0096' or .010" flat on the end, or slight radius.

Also one thing I have to get my head around on this machine is when feeding with the crossfeed dial I need to use 1/2 the dial reading because I want total cross slide movement not diameter removed numbers.

I was going to double check my numbers by using the 3-wire method last night but a client came by to drop off a bike and I honestly forgot until today.  The nut fit and I just simply forgot that I wanted to check via the 3-wire method.

Mike.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

what an awesome journey Mike, I've enjoyed following every bit of it. I admire the professionalism involved and it's quite the inspiration. "One day all this too may be yours"  Nothing like using tools to make tools for your other tools too!


----------



## zmotorsports

mattthemuppet said:


> what an awesome journey Mike, I've enjoyed following every bit of it. I admire the professionalism involved and it's quite the inspiration. "One day all this too may be yours"  Nothing like using tools to make tools for your other tools too!



Thank you.  I appreciate that.

Although I am far from a machinist, I sure love machining pieces and parts.

Mike.


----------



## george wilson

I can't expect you youngsters to know words like "continental system". I learned them back in the 50's.

I just leave my threading dial engaged all the time. After all,with a separate feed rod,it does not rotate unless you're threading,except for the minute amount,comparatively,when you are moving the carriage sideways.

6 jaw chucks are cool,but they do not grip as firmly as a 3 jaw. They are,as you likely know,for tubular work where you want to spread out the clamping pressure,and not dent the tubing.


----------



## dickda1

I've owned a Precision Matthews milling machine for about 2 years and love it.  Matt gave me a great deal.   If you can deal with problems chasing him down for questions you will be very satisfied with PM.   I also have a Hitachi VFD with 2hp 3 phase for my lathe.


----------



## Havoc

Mike,

I am having problem with my lathe maybe you can help; my lathe is single phase 220V, after I wire in the power, jog button does not work, neither does the forward / reverse lever, I also have a coolant pump and that motor come on, when I push the button on the back of the contactors themselves, the lathe will turn without any problem, and if I engage power feed everything work fine. I have look at the contact switches the the lever operate and they seem to be OK, I have also check out the jog switch.....that seem to be OK also.  What could be wrong?are my contactors bad? 
If so can I buy the your old ones?

danny


----------



## Ray C

Havoc said:


> Mike,
> 
> I am having problem with my lathe maybe you can help; my lathe is single phase 220V, after I wire in the power, jog button does not work, neither does the forward / reverse lever, I also have a coolant pump and that motor come on, when I push the button on the back of the contactors themselves, the lathe will turn without any problem, and if I engage power feed everything work fine. I have look at the contact switches the the lever operate and they seem to be OK, I have also check out the jog switch.....that seem to be OK also.  What could be wrong?are my contactors bad?
> If so can I buy the your old ones?
> 
> danny



These problems are common and are almost always due to one or more of the safety switches not being engaged properly.  A second common problem is the operating rod switch got bumped/dislodged during transit or handling while setting the lathe on it's stand.  A third issue arises from one or more of the circuit breakers getting dislodged in the electrical control panel -and this typically happens due to the bumpy road during transit.  I've encountered these issues on several occasions...

The first two items are addressed by visual inspection of the safety switches and by manually pressing them until you hear the switch spring making contact.  If that's not the issue, with the unit unplugged from the power source, open the control box and carefully look at all the plug-in modules to make sure they are snapped into position.  If there are circuit breakers, toggle the switch and make sure it's properly set in the active position.  Also, please be sure the red safety button is in the proper position.  Also, once a safety switch is triggered, the red safety button needs to be cycled on/off to reset the control box.

FWIW:  All units are tested and run before leaving the warehouse so, the issue at hand is generally easy to diagnose and solve -and is usually caused by something getting upset during shipping etc...


Ray


----------



## Havoc

Ray C said:


> These problems are common and are almost always due to one or more of the safety switches not being engaged properly.  A second common problem is the operating rod switch got bumped/dislodged during transit or handling while setting the lathe on it's stand.  A third issue arises from one or more of the circuit breakers getting dislodged in the electrical control panel -and this typically happens due to the bumpy road during transit.  I've encountered these issues on several occasions...
> 
> The first two items are addressed by visual inspection of the safety switches and by manually pressing them until you hear the switch spring making contact.  If that's not the issue, with the unit unplugged from the power source, open the control box and carefully look at all the plug-in modules to make sure they are snapped into position.  If there are circuit breakers, toggle the switch and make sure it's properly set in the active position.  Also, please be sure the red safety button is in the proper position.  Also, once a safety switch is triggered, the red safety button needs to be cycled on/off to reset the control box.
> 
> FWIW:  All units are tested and run before leaving the warehouse so, the issue at hand is generally easy to diagnose and solve -and is usually caused by something getting upset during shipping etc...
> 
> 
> Ray



Ray,

Thanks for the quick response, can you tell me where all of the safety switches are on my lathe?


Danny


----------



## zmotorsports

Danny, Ray gave some good items to check, mainly do a visual and make certain the relay(s) are pushed all the way into their sockets/bases and make sure the safety devices are passing voltage through them.

Without being right there it is kind of hard to diagnose, but if you are comfortable with a VOM, the wiring schematic is not too bad and shows all connections.  Being very careful because this is 220VAC you are working around, but test the incoming voltage and verify the voltage is coming into the contactors.  Then there should be a step down transformer for the control wiring, verify you are getting voltage into the transformer and out at 24VAC.  Then confirm that 24VAC is going through the E-stop switch, the light on the front control panel should also be a good indicator.

Once that is all confirmed check that power is going to the drum swithc.  From there it should go to the control side of the contactors.

Hope that should be enough to get you through the control voltage.  Seeing as how you can push a contactor in and it runs tells me that the issue lies in the control voltage side/safety device.

Mike.


----------



## Havoc

Ray C said:


> These problems are common and are almost always due to one or more of the safety switches not being engaged properly.  A second common problem is the operating rod switch got bumped/dislodged during transit or handling while setting the lathe on it's stand.  A third issue arises from one or more of the circuit breakers getting dislodged in the electrical control panel -and this typically happens due to the bumpy road during transit.  I've encountered these issues on several occasions...
> 
> The first two items are addressed by visual inspection of the safety switches and by manually pressing them until you hear the switch spring making contact.  If that's not the issue, with the unit unplugged from the power source, open the control box and carefully look at all the plug-in modules to make sure they are snapped into position.  If there are circuit breakers, toggle the switch and make sure it's properly set in the active position.  Also, please be sure the red safety button is in the proper position.  Also, once a safety switch is triggered, the red safety button needs to be cycled on/off to reset the control box.
> 
> FWIW:  All units are tested and run before leaving the warehouse so, the issue at hand is generally easy to diagnose and solve -and is usually caused by something getting upset during shipping etc...
> 
> 
> Ray




Ray,

That was it...... thanks alot.


Danny


----------



## Havoc

zmotorsports said:


> Danny, Ray gave some good items to check, mainly do a visual and make certain the relay(s) are pushed all the way into their sockets/bases and make sure the safety devices are passing voltage through them.
> 
> Without being right there it is kind of hard to diagnose, but if you are comfortable with a VOM, the wiring schematic is not too bad and shows all connections.  Being very careful because this is 220VAC you are working around, but test the incoming voltage and verify the voltage is coming into the contactors.  Then there should be a step down transformer for the control wiring, verify you are getting voltage into the transformer and out at 24VAC.  Then confirm that 24VAC is going through the E-stop switch, the light on the front control panel should also be a good indicator.
> 
> Once that is all confirmed check that power is going to the drum swithc.  From there it should go to the control side of the contactors.
> 
> Hope that should be enough to get you through the control voltage.  Seeing as how you can push a contactor in and it runs tells me that the issue lies in the control voltage side/safety device.
> 
> Mike.




Mike,

Thanks for your help, I got it up and going now, I just didnt press the reset switch in far enough.


Danny


----------



## zmotorsports

Havoc said:


> Mike,
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help, I got it up and going now, I just didnt press the reset switch in far enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Danny




Awesome Danny.  Glad to hear that.  Whatcha think so far of it?


Mike.


----------



## zmotorsports

Ok, I posted this up in the POTD thread but thought I would also put a link to it here because technically I was checking accuracy of the PM1340GT while machining a tool.  

Rather than duplicating the post, here is a link to some information regarding the accuracy and my findings while making some cuts last night.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=14637&page=67&p=222318#post222318

It is post # 1988 on page 67 of Project of the Day.

I also recorded a short video last night of the PM1340GT demonstrating how quiet and smooth this machine is.  I was boring to a shoulder and demonstrated how easily and precise you can come up against a soft stop and how easy it is to engage/disengage the carriage and repeat this time and time again.

I have never posted up a video before so bear with me as I set up a youtube account and figure out how to upload my video to it.

Mike.


----------



## Falcon67

Finally got a chance to read through.  Nice work on the PM.  I may be mooching some of your excellent ideas.  Nice machine  - can't wait to get mine up and going.  My other lathe is usually tied up with the setup for the fittings a sell, so it'll be nice to run some projects like you did over on POTD.


----------



## zmotorsports

Falcon67 said:


> Finally got a chance to read through.  Nice work on the PM.  I may be mooching some of your excellent ideas.  Nice machine  - can't wait to get mine up and going.



Thanks Chris.  No problem on using some ideas, mooch away.  I wish I could take credit for most of them but I saw many of them elsewhere and copied them myself.

I guess you know what they say, "imitation is the most sincere form of flattery."  Well I imitated the hell out of some of those ideas.

Make sure to post up pictures though, that is the only stipulation.)  Make certain to take close ups as well as wide angle shots, I love looking at your shop.

Mike.


----------



## zmotorsports

Ok guys, go easy on me here.  I have NEVER done a video and just started a youtube account so I am treading in unknown territory here.  

I have been asked by a few members to do a video, however, this is not an all encompassing review.  I was just doing a quick job last night and was performing the nerve racking task of boring into a shoulder so I thought I would do a quick video to demonstrate how smooth and quiet the Precision Mathews PM1340GT is and how smooth the lever engagement/disengagement is on the carriage which greatly promotes repeatability. 

I will hopefully do a few more videos on various tasks as they pop up, providing I don't make too big a fool of myself with this one.

Mike.

Here is the short video of the PM1340GT.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1kIZuOeNopk


----------



## Smudgemo

zmotorsports said:


> Ok guys, go easy on me here.  I have NEVER done a video and just started a youtube account so I am treading in unknown territory here.



Well, it's got a beat, but I can't dance to it so I'm giving it an 8.5.

Seriously, though, it looks pretty cool in action.  Matt told me he's sold out and now I'll have to wait until the end of November as the small incoming October batch was sold to a school.  I'll be deciding at the end of the month whether to order one.  Guess I can practice my patience until then.

-Ryan


----------



## zmotorsports

Thanks Ryan.  If you can at all swing it, I highly recommend it.  For the money I think it is a very high quality lathe.  The more I use it the more I am impressed with it.

Mike.


----------



## Falcon67

Nicely done video.  Machine sounds very tight and smooth.  Took 6 minutes to watch thanks to bandwidth issues lol.


----------



## zmotorsports

Falcon67 said:


> Nicely done video.  Machine sounds very tight and smooth.  Took 6 minutes to watch thanks to bandwidth issues lol.




Thanks Chris, I appreciate that.  I have had a few requests to do a full video review of the lathe so I may try to fumble my way through another video and try to give an overview of the machine. 

I know when I was looking there were quite a few videos of the Grizzly machines and even a few of the Eisen but absolutely nothing for the PM1340GT from Precision Mathews other than a minute and a half video on youtube that showed Matt walking it through it's paces and directional changes.  

Just as an FYI, I don't want anyone to think that I am getting any kind of kickback or "perks" from doing these reviews, that is very, very far from the truth.  I have been so frustrated over the time it took to get and I still haven't seen my mill but all of that aside, I want to give an honest overview of the machine because I have been asked my opinions by several people.

I have absolutely no connection to Quality Machine Tools whatsoever, I am merely trying to provide information to assist those who are looking at this machine and to help them in their decision making process.  This is a lot of money to spend and the more information the better.

Mike.


----------



## Falcon67

I'm like you - thinking about the next person to come along looking for a particular machine.  Just like to leave some better info around to help people sort things out.  Best we can do because I think the search is kinda always going to be like you saw - little bit here, little bit there, little bit from 2005 that no longer applies, cuss fight about Brand X/China, etc.  Very few posts out there that are just "I bought this, this is what was in the box, here's what I see, how it seems to run".


----------



## zmotorsports

Falcon67 said:


> I'm like you - thinking about the next person to come along looking for a particular machine.  Just like to leave some better info around to help people sort things out.  Best we can do because I think the search is kinda always going to be like you saw - little bit here, little bit there, little bit from 2005 that no longer applies, cuss fight about Brand X/China, etc.  Very few posts out there that are just "I bought this, this is what was in the box, here's what I see, how it seems to run".



EXACTLY.  That is my feelings exactly.  My experience/opinions may be something different than someone else's but at least here is my opinion on X, Y or Z.  Just information, people can do with it what they like but at least it is another source of information to help make an informed decision.

Mike.


----------



## TFC

Mike, 
By your photos, it looks as though the NAPA belt you used to replace the OEM belt is longer than the OEM belt.  Is that the case?  I can't get the motor to adjust far enough upward due to: 1.) Cap screws in the way which are impossible to access/remove unless I remove the entire motor. Not sure what those cap screws do so I'm leery of pulling them anyway. 2.) Wiring from VFD to motor, installed by QMT, is too short to allow any further upward travel of the motor unless the VFD is disconnected.  Changing a belt position should not be this hard. I made some measurements and now I'm on the way to NAPA to get a longer belt so I can use the A and B positions.  There is no way, with the obstacles I described, that the OEM belt would ever fit both pulley positions.  Thought about doing the link belt thing but NAPA has none in stock and I'll wait till at least Monday for a special order.  BTW, nice photos of your machine and enhancements.  I have had some issues/obstacles with my 1340GT that just should not have happened in a "new" machine.  QMT is taking care of everything but it is still more frustration + obstacles = time.  Thanks.
Tim


----------



## zmotorsports

TFC said:


> Mike,
> By your photos, it looks as though the NAPA belt you used to replace the OEM belt is longer than the OEM belt.  Is that the case?  I can't get the motor to adjust far enough upward due to: 1.) Cap screws in the way which are impossible to access/remove unless I remove the entire motor. Not sure what those cap screws do so I'm leery of pulling them anyway. 2.) Wiring from VFD to motor, installed by QMT, is too short to allow any further upward travel of the motor unless the VFD is disconnected.  Changing a belt position should not be this hard. I made some measurements and now I'm on the way to NAPA to get a longer belt so I can use the A and B positions.  There is no way, with the obstacles I described, that the OEM belt would ever fit both pulley positions.  Thought about doing the link belt thing but NAPA has none in stock and I'll wait till at least Monday for a special order.  BTW, nice photos of your machine and enhancements.  I have had some issues/obstacles with my 1340GT that just should not have happened in a "new" machine.  QMT is taking care of everything but it is still more frustration + obstacles = time.  Thanks.
> Tim



Tim, yes the NAPA belt is a little longer, but only slightly.  It puts the motor more in the middle of the adjustment range, maybe slightly favoring the upper end.  It makes pulley position changes a breeze, however, with the 3-phase/VFD belt changes are almost a non-issue.  For the most part I have left it in the low speed pulley position and used the gears in the headstock and the VFD to fine tune my spindle RPM's.

I did however, jump up to the high range pulley configuration the other night for two reasons.  First, I wanted to see how difficult it was or how long it took to do and it was a breeze, took less than a minute.  Secondly, I was polishing up a piece of small diameter steel and wanted to get up in the higher RPM range.  Afterwards it was dropped right back into the low range pulley groove.

DO NOT remove those socket head capscrews that the motor comes in contact with, they are the adjustment screws/jack screws for the headstock alignment on the lathe bed.

I cannot speak for how QMT wired the VFD to the lathe so I can't give you any direction there.  I know I ran my load side wiring directly from the VFD to the motor and then the control wiring from the VFD to the lathe in two separate casings and left plenty of slack so that is probably why I have not experienced any issues with the wiring being too short.

I hope you are able to get it figured out and can get on with using your lathe.  I know I am more impressed and more happy with mine each time I use it.

Mike.


----------



## zmotorsports

I started another thread with just the video in it but I thought I would throw it on this thread as well.

Here is a link to my video review.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KNbbEoJf1TI

If anyone has any questions or comments please feel free.

Mike.


----------



## george wilson

zmotorsports: Unless I am reading you backwards,I think you have the 2 systems confused; The American system is the one where you have to divide by 1/2 to get the full amount removed from the stock measured. The Continental system automatically

gives you the true amount removed. A much handier system,especially when you have a fraction of a thou to deal with,and your old head is tired.

Or,am I getting your posts wrong?


----------



## zmotorsports

george wilson said:


> zmotorsports: Unless I am reading you backwards,I think you have the 2 systems confused; The American system is the one where you have to divide by 1/2 to get the full amount removed from the stock measured. The Continental system automatically
> 
> gives you the true amount removed. A much handier system,especially when you have a fraction of a thou to deal with,and your old head is tired.
> 
> Or,am I getting your posts wrong?



George, where did I reference it incorrectly so I can correct it?  I think I have it straight in my head but I may have typed it wrong somewhere if you could point it out.  I have been referring to my lathe as having the "American" system based off of the information that you provided earlier.  I had never heard of that but my previous lathe and the one I use at work use the "continental" system because they have the dials marked in .001" which equals actual cross feed movement.

I just have had to make the switch in my head but after only about 20+ hours on my new lathe right now I feel I have done a pretty good job of changing my behavior and I am getting used to the new system.

Unless I am misunderstanding you.  On my lathe the dials are marked out in .002" increments.  Meaning if you need the part to be .020" diameter smaller, you turn the dial according to the markings .020".  This only moves the crossfeed .010" though.  On the other system if I need to remove .020" from total diameter I would move the dial .010" which is marked in .001" increments.  

So is that correct or am I misunderstanding or misreading you?

Thanks.

Mike.


----------



## wrmiller

zmotorsports said:


> "if you need the part to be .020" diameter smaller, you turn the dial according to the markings .020".
> Mike.



This is how my little lathe works. I measure the part, need to remove 20 thou, and crank the dial 20 thou. I don't have to think about how far the tool moves. Much simpler. 

Bill


----------



## John Hasler

wrmiller19 said:


> This is how my little lathe works. I measure the part, need to remove 20 thou, and crank the dial 20 thou. I don't have to think about how far the tool moves. Much simpler.
> 
> Bill



Depends on how you think.  .020 off the diameter is .010 off the radius.  To my mind it's simplest and least error-prone if the dial tells me how far the tool moved.


----------



## zmotorsports

John Hasler said:


> Depends on how you think.  .020 off the diameter is .010 off the radius.  To my mind it's simplest and least error-prone if the dial tells me how far the tool moved.



That is the way I am used to.  For the past 26+ years I have used lathes that you move the dial the radius amount.  If you need the part .020" diameter small, just dial the cross slide .010".  Not to say one is better or not, just different.

It was just a habit that I will have to change is all.  I don't think it will be that big of a deal because I am only sitting at around 20 hours on my new lathe and I am getting used to it.  It really isn't that big of a deal, I just thought it was worth mentioning on my review of the lathe.

Mike.


----------



## Falcon67

John Hasler said:


> Depends on how you think.  .020 off the diameter is .010 off the radius.  To my mind it's simplest and least error-prone if the dial tells me how far the tool moved.



This.  When I think "it needs to be .004 smaller in diameter" I move the dial what equates to .002.  1 mark takes off 2 dia.  This is how my cross slide dial on the 9x20 works.  Pretty sure the cross feed on the carriage is the same.


----------



## chuckorlando

You would have loved learning in a shop that had 2 radius and 2 dia reading lathes. And no one told ya ahahahaha. One day .010 is .010 and the next it's .020





zmotorsports said:


> That is the way I am used to.  For the past 26+ years I have used lathes that you move the dial the radius amount.  If you need the part .020" diameter small, just dial the cross slide .010".  Not to say one is better or not, just different.
> 
> It was just a habit that I will have to change is all.  I don't think it will be that big of a deal because I am only sitting at around 20 hours on my new lathe and I am getting used to it.  It really isn't that big of a deal, I just thought it was worth mentioning on my review of the lathe.
> 
> Mike.


----------



## zmotorsports

chuckorlando said:


> You would have loved learning in a shop that had 2 radius and 2 dia reading lathes. And no one told ya ahahahaha. One day .010 is .010 and the next it's .020



Ya, that would have been fun.  Possibly the scrap bin would get full quick.

Mike.


----------



## JPatMcConnel

Just a big thanks for all your effort in the rollout and shakedown of your PM1340GT. Per your suggestion,  I replaced the belt on my new PM1340GT with the NAPA belt (even picked up some spares as they had to be ordered); and not only does it run quieter, but I can actually change between pulleys without a socket wrench on the large pulley nut and a large screw driver to lift the belt between pulleys. As a result of getting my lathe spot on level I also learned how to calibrate a Starrett 18" machinists level. No joy like the joy of hours of trying to get a lathe level and then finding out the level doesn't read in the same relative position when you flip it around. Like you, I really like the fit and finish of this lathe. I have a DRO on my new lathe and I am beginning to appreciate how much versatility it injects into the creation of the fountain pen parts I make.

Thanks again,
Pat McConnel


----------



## zmotorsports

Thanks Pat and congrats on getting yours up and running where you are happy with it.  That is one thing I didn't explain and maybe I should have was how to flip the level end for end to calibrate it.  I guess I just assumed that was already known.  Sorry, I should have been more detailed from the beginning.

Post up some pictures of your pens that you are machining, I would love to see them and I am sure others would as well.

Mike.


----------



## Negev

Congrats on the new machine!!! But there is one thing your missing the racing stripe's 
over the top of the head stock since you got the GT model and o yea your new nick 
is speed racer LOL  Just kiddin with yea!!! :rofl: Enjoy !!!!


----------



## mksj

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>  <w:WordDocument>   <w:View>Normal</w:View>   <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>   <w:TrackMoves/>   <w:TrackFormatting/>   <wunctuationKerning/>   <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>   <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>   <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>   <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>   <woNotPromoteQF/>   <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>   <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian>   <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>   <w:Compatibility>    <w:BreakWrappedTables/>    <w:SnapToGridInCell/>    <w:WrapTextWithPunct/>    <w:UseAsianBreakRules/>    <wontGrowAutofit/>    <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>    <wontVertAlignCellWithSp/>    <wontBreakConstrainedForcedTables/>    <wontVertAlignInTxbx/>    <w:Word11KerningPairs/>    <w:CachedColBalance/>   </w:Compatibility>   <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel>   <m:mathPr>    <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>    <m:brkBin m:val="before"/>    <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>    <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>    <m:dispDef/>    <m:lMargin m:val="0"/>    <m:rMargin m:val="0"/>    <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>    <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>    <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>    <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>   </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]-->[FONT=&amp]Recently purchased a PM-1340GT and took delivery the other day, took some fancy footwork to get it on the stand with my 1 ton engine hoist. I lifted the lathe with a 2 ton lifting strap as shown, and  two tie downs [/FONT][FONT=&amp][FONT=&amp]attached to either end [/FONT]so I could keep the lathe level. This also prevented damage to the X-axis glass DRO scale. The 1/4 ton hoist position was only used to shimmy the lathe into position,  I would recommend using a 2 ton engine hoist which has a bit more reach then my unit. The fit and finish on the PM-1340GT (Taiwanese machine) and accessories are in a league of its own at this price break ). As far as I can tell only the 4 jaw chuck is of Chinese manufacturer, not really a problem. All the accessories are top notch, I also purchased an Easson ES-12 from QMT at a very reasonable price. Haven't powered it up yet, as I am converting the 3 phase lathe to a VFD drive similar to what was described earlier in this post. Will add a blue lighted coolant switch which will activate with the lathe motor, replace the power light with the VFD speed control and add a lighted [/FONT][FONT=&amp][FONT=&amp](to indicate power) green [/FONT]jog switch. Still working out the schema, but the existing wiring and electrical components is outstanding.

When leveling my machines I have used an inexpensive digital leveling gauge, once zeroed you can get accurate readings with a resolution down to 0.01 degrees in all three axis I also use this on my mill head to set the angle.  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## zmotorsports

Nice mjsk.  Congrats on the new lathe and getting it on its stand.

I am anxious to hear your thoughts once you get some time on it.  I am approaching 30 hours of run time on mine and like it more and more every time I use it.  I machined some parts yesterday for a Jeep suspension for a guy and I am very happy with the ability to dial right in on the size and land on the measurement I was shooting for.

I then turned around and had to machine some new screws for my motorcycle helmet that were under .5" diameter and I decided to turn 1/4-28 threads on the aluminum screws.  I had never single pointed that small of thread before but I decided to give it a go since I had the machine to do it.  WOW!  The screws and the threads turned out amazing.  Great overall lathe, from large diameter work all the way down to single pointing 1/4-28 threads.

Mike.


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## zmotorsports

Last night I had a few minutes while waiting for a guy to drop off a bike so I decided to tackle another item on my "wants" list.  I had a soft stop on my last lathe and used the crap out of it.  It was across the ways and was adjustable along the length of the bed and then had a thumbscrew that would either hold a dial indicator in for measuring carriage movement or could be used as a hard stop with a rod and I could bump up against it with the carriage.  Although I generally used it as a soft stop with the DI and very seldom used it as a hard stop.

I let it go with the lathe when I sold it but I definitely wanted to fabricate another one so I took some time last night to do so.

I started with a piece of .625" thick 3"x3" piece of flat stock mild steel.  Milled it to size and counterbored a hole for a longer 6MMx1.0 SHCS to mount it to the lathe just above the selector knob for the leadscrew or feed rod.










I also had to notch it a bit to clear one of the screws that hold the lower shelf to the control panel.  This is the shelf that holds the felt material for lubing the Norton gearbox.

Here it is mocked into place to determine the location of the hole for the rod which will hold the dial indicator.





I used a piece of .375" O1 drill rod and milled a flat the majority of the length for the thumbscrew to tighten against.  I also milled a flat on one end and drilled/tapped it for a 1/4"-28 SHCS to attach the dial indicator.

Clamped in the mill vise just after milling the flat.





Completed and installed on the lathe.  Now when I need to have an accurate measurement of carriage movement I simply loosen the thumbscrew and slide the rod out to the carriage, zero the dial indicator and it is ready to use.  When done I simply slide it all the way back towards the headstock.  The rod barely protrudes out past the side cover and is much more readily usable and quick than the one I had on my last lathe.


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## drs23

Mike, I'm very surprised that your vice has the surface rust like mine. I figured in SLC you wouldn't have near the issue with it that I do here being 8 miles off the Gulf. How long have you had it?


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## zmotorsports

drs23 said:


> Mike, I'm very surprised that your vice has the surface rust like mine. I figured in SLC you wouldn't have near the issue with it that I do here being 8 miles off the Gulf. How long have you had it?



It actually isn't rust, it seems to be a reaction to the Union Butterfield cutting oil that I have been using.  If I don't get it right off it stains the bare metal.  You can't feel it and brake wash will not remove it.

I have recently switched back over to using the darker sulfur based SuperKut cutting oil and prefer it.  Although the Union Butterfield does have a good smell to it.ondering:


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## Cheeseking

Great little addition to your lathe!   Btw. ReAlly like reading all your write ups on the PM.    It is probably one of the few new machines in a class within reach of the average hobbyist that I would consider.    All it needs now is 10 years of patina from use by a caring craftsman (you) to knock off the "shine" and crisp edges.


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## zmotorsports

Cheeseking said:


> Great little addition to your lathe!   Btw. ReAlly like reading all your write ups on the PM.    It is probably one of the few new machines in a class within reach of the average hobbyist that I would consider.    All it needs now is 10 years of patina from use by a caring craftsman (you) to knock off the "shine" and crisp edges.



Couldn't agree more.  I love the patina look that equipment gets.  My last one just had that well used but cared for patina and then I sold it.  

Oh well, I will give it all I can to get that look on these machines.:thumbsup:


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## Dean

Good job Mike on the write up. I'm currently in the hunt for a new lathe. It's either gonna be this one or the Grizz 4003G.


I was wondering about the 3 phase connection. The addition of the VFD on your part was because there was no 3 phase available?
If 3 phase was available, is the control box already wired for that input? Had you given any thought to just a 3 phase converter box?


Maybe I should send a note off to Ray C. as well, but I really liked your write up and felt you had a pretty good on hand feeling about
lathe. So thanks for your help.


Dean


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## Falcon67

Dean said:


> I was wondering about the 3 phase connection. The addition of the VFD on your part was because there was no 3 phase available?
> If 3 phase was available, is the control box already wired for that input? Had you given any thought to just a 3 phase converter box?



I would assume that he is like me - there is no 3 phase available for residential use.  He may not be completely residential, but real 3 phase power even in town is a super high buck installation and ongoing cost.  I bought a mill/drill with a 1HP 3 phase motor because I wanted the advantages of 3 phase and the VFD.  Smoother operation, lower current draw, programmable e-stop and controls (instant reverse, etc).  I use a 2 HP VFD to drive it.  2HP because it was only about $30 more and I figured extra capacity can't hurt.  Next mill might be 2HP 3 phase.  The VFD supplies 100% power, no degradation and full torque.  You can also tweak the Hz to mess with the motor speed.  For instance, you could use it to reduce a lathe lower RPM from 70 to 40 or 50 RPM for threading with just a twist of a knob.  I have the E-stop set to stop the motor in .2 seconds, nearly instantly.  The downside - such as it is - is that the VFD has to drive the motor directly, it cannot drive the control box.  In my mill/drill, I gutted the control box and use twisted pair network wires to run back to the VFD for all controls - FWD/REV, E-Stop, Jog, Start.  

A static converter is only good to maybe 50% power, so it would have to be at least double your motor to get what you need.  If you had a bunch of 3 phase equipment, a rotary converter would be the next thing up from individual VFDs.


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## zmotorsports

Dean said:


> Good job Mike on the write up. I'm currently in the hunt for a new lathe. It's either gonna be this one or the Grizz 4003G.
> 
> 
> I was wondering about the 3 phase connection. The addition of the VFD on your part was because there was no 3 phase available?
> If 3 phase was available, is the control box already wired for that input? Had you given any thought to just a 3 phase converter box?
> 
> 
> Maybe I should send a note off to Ray C. as well, but I really liked your write up and felt you had a pretty good on hand feeling about
> lathe. So thanks for your help.
> 
> 
> Dean




Dean, Chris pretty much summed it up in his post above about the VFD.  I opted to go 3 PH and VFD for two reasons.  First 3 phase at lower speeds covers up some of the "pulsing" that you get with single phase (60 hz).  Secondly I wanted to be able to "tweak" the RPM slightly in either direction of whatever speed range I am in through the gearbox.  This aids in more of less filling in the gaps between available speeds in the gearbox.

I didn't want to go with a simple phase converter because the VFD is so much more efficient and has other benefits which make it a much more attractive alternative.

On my milling machine I opted to go single phase just because of convenience and I didn't see the immediate benefits of 3 ph and VFD since I was going with the variable speed head anyways.

I don't have any personal experience with the 4003G lathe but the Norton style gearbox which both it and the PM1340GT have is a big advantage in my opinion.  Having said that the difference between a mainland Chinese machine vs. a Taiwanese may or may not be as big a deal to you as it was to me.  They will both do the same things I was just after outfitting my shop with the best equipment available for allotted budget and the Taiwanese machines are definitely a cut above.

If you have any further questions or specifics pertaining to the PM1340GT I would be happy to answer them the best I can but maybe others with the 4003G can chime in or you could ask more specific questions geared towards that lathe in the Grizzly section and perhaps get a few more responses.

Mike.


----------



## mksj

I also purchased the 3 phase version of the 1340GT, for the reason it saves you the cost/installation of a new 3 phase motor. Changing the motor to a true vector rated 3 phase motor (such as the Marathon BlackMax/BlueMax series), does afford you full torque down to 0 RPM, and full horsepower rating from ~1750 RPM up to ~3500 RPM for something like the Y526 or Y551 models. So much wider working range, and no low speed cooling limitations, but they are costly and not sure if they would fit.

 The wiring for this version lathe is set up for a 3 phase connection, availability from the power company it is not something you would see in a residential setting. So one cannot simply connect a VFD and run the machine without wiring modifications, but one could use an electronic or rotary 3 phase converter. A VFD in a vector mode, gives very smooth power delivery over a broad RPM range, plus the advantages of an electronic brake and to some degree motor feedback operation to the VFD. Conversion of the 3 phase lathe/motor to VFD operation is not complicated, but one needs some basic knowledge of electricity and wiring of VFDs. One should use shielded wiring to the VFD controls and for wiring between the VFD and the 3 phase motor. There are also a number of tweaking (programming) variables with the VFD set-up, some are a bit more complex than others. I have opted for relay controls of the VFD signals, which affords some additional controls of other devices and interlocks for additional safety.
Mark


----------



## dave2176

Dean said:


> Good job Mike on the write up. I'm currently in the hunt for a new lathe. It's either gonna be this one or the Grizz 4003G.
> Dean



Mike's PM1340GT is no doubt an incredible machine. I have loved following this thread. Someday when life slows down I'll get by Mike's shop and have a look see in person. I have owned the G4003G for just over a year and it is a great machine for what it is. I also would choose the Norton gearbox over the enclosed one in this class of machine. The larger machines have some great features in their enclosed gearboxes but they are intended for industrial use and carry the price accordingly. If I had the budget for the more expensive PM I would buy it and be happy with my decision. If I only had the budget for the Grizzly I would buy it and still be happy. Its fit and finish is very nice and it is very accurate and capable as well and has been absolutely trouble free. Someday when needed or I have spare money I will look into stepping up to a 3 phase motor with a VFD but in the meantime I can still do quality work. My wood lathe has a 3 phase / VFD setup and it is quite nice. 

Good luck on your search,
Dave


----------



## Dean

Hey guys thanks for the reply's. I probably should have mentioned that I am not electrical/electronic challenged. I am however a beginner when it comes to machining.
The question on the converter box was only because I have a Bridgeport 2J up and running on converter box. Seems to work very well but again I don't do big jobs and mostly aluminum.
I do believe the VFD is the way to go. Many more control possibilities.

Is there a way for this board to notify you of respond to a thread that you had posted in. I gotta tell ya I did not know that I had responds to my questions.
Thanks guys ...Dean


----------



## zmotorsports

Dean said:


> Hey guys thanks for the reply's. I probably should have mentioned that I am not electrical/electronic challenged. I am however a beginner when it comes to machining.
> The question on the converter box was only because I have a Bridgeport 2J up and running on converter box. Seems to work very well but again I don't do big jobs and mostly aluminum.
> I do believe the VFD is the way to go. Many more control possibilities.
> 
> Is there a way for this board to notify you of respond to a thread that you had posted in. I gotta tell ya I did not know that I had responds to my questions.
> Thanks guys ...Dean



I think in your "setting" you can check the box that states subscribe to thread posted in.

Then when you log in click on "settings" in the upper right hand, next to the log out, and it will display the threads that you are subscribed to.


----------



## zmotorsports

I had wanted to get my tailstock DRO machined and installed but have not had time.  Well I already had a mess on the shop floor Saturday after doing another machining job so I thought I would throw together my mounting bracket(s) for the linear scale.

Here is the starting point.  A piece of 3.5" 6061-T6 aluminum that was needing to be used.






Once I test fit it on the tailstock I marked where I had to mill the small pocket to accept the end bracket for the linear scale.  I also saw cut a slit the ring after I drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 recessed socket head cap screw to tighten onto the tailstock.





Completed.


----------



## psient

HI All:

I purchased my lathe from Matt quite some time ago. IT is a 1340 but at the time I purchased mine Matt did not have the GT version. I had never machined anything on a lathe before. 

I'd like to add to the thread that Matt is really down to earth and authentic. No bull..... When I received mine there were only one or two threads across the internet referring to it. At that time Asian made lathes were really getting a bad riff. I trusted that Matt was honest and have never looked back. I know that Mike has paid attention to how good Matt is with his customers. I just want to add that as a complete novice, he was always patient, always took the time to explain simply, and never was in the least condescending. 

When I received the lathe it was with the SINO DRO. The aluminum housing was mounted incorrectly and rubbed against the lathe-bed. I didn't diagnose the problem immediately because I didn't notice the abrasions at first. When I called, Matt conferred that his help had not installed the housing correctly. He sent me a new one and I worked at getting it installed. In all fairness, the installation was difficult for me due to the lack of clearance. The only thing I can point to as a little problem was a GIB screw that was stripped and fell off. I asked Matt for a new one but he had nothing to replace it with. I know he had to order it from the factory but never received it. I tried to find an adequate replacement but could not. I managed to get the screw to hold and it hasn't been a problem. I don't use it that much but that's another thread.

Thanks to Mike for his interest in sharing with us all of the things he knows about the lathe. 

One thing I am really interested in and that is the carriage lock. I didn't know the lathe has one and I have trouble holding the settings when I turn stuff so I am gonna look to see if I cannot find the screw that is used. When I asked Matt he said there was one but I could not find it.

Once again, I am a complete novice. I did note that no one seemed to mention putting silicon in the stand before setting the lathe down on it. You know, for the coolant so it doesn't leak through the holes in the stand. 

Mine is dead on when leveled out and convinced me that Asian lathes and mills are not the big gamble that folks were saying they were.

Best,

Jon


----------



## jzakariasen

Hi Mike,

I recently took delivery of the exact same lathe (PM1340GT) and VFD that you have.  I was wondering if you could share a schematic and parts list and perhaps a few high res. images of the modified electrical cabinet.  I would love to be able to duplicate what you have achieved and I am impressed with the video that you put on Youtube.  From what Matt said it sounded like just a few contractors had to be repurposed, but now that I found your write up on this site, and watched your video, I can see you did a pretty major rework of the electrical, so it will take more effort to get full functionality than I thought.  Matt did send me the write up by Les Scott of how he modified his PM1236 but the details are a bit different for the 1340GT.  The relay that you used looks very different than what Les Scott used.  Unfortunately the picture on this website is just a bit too low res for me to make out the name and model number of your relay.

What voltage are you putting into the transformer that drives the halogen lamp and where are you pulling it from as I thought the only AC power coming in was wired directly to the motor and it was 3 phase. Are you pulling power from 2 of the 3 phases into the motor?  I am afraid my ignorance of 3 phase power is showing here, but I am a quick study and eager to learn.  Any guidance you can offer is very much appreciated as I am eager to get the new machine up and running.  If you wish to send me a PM my e-mail is j.zakariasen@me.com . 

Thanks,
Jerry


----------



## zmotorsports

jzakariasen said:


> Hi Mike,
> 
> I recently took delivery of the exact same lathe (PM1340GT) and VFD that you have.  I was wondering if you could share a schematic and parts list and perhaps a few high res. images of the modified electrical cabinet.  I would love to be able to duplicate what you have achieved and I am impressed with the video that you put on Youtube.  From what Matt said it sounded like just a few contractors had to be repurposed, but now that I found your write up on this site, and watched your video, I can see you did a pretty major rework of the electrical, so it will take more effort to get full functionality than I thought.  Matt did send me the write up by Les Scott of how he modified his PM1236 but the details are a bit different for the 1340GT.  The relay that you used looks very different than what Les Scott used.  Unfortunately the picture on this website is just a bit too low res for me to make out the name and model number of your relay.
> 
> What voltage are you putting into the transformer that drives the halogen lamp and where are you pulling it from as I thought the only AC power coming in was wired directly to the motor and it was 3 phase. Are you pulling power from 2 of the 3 phases into the motor?  I am afraid my ignorance of 3 phase power is showing here, but I am a quick study and eager to learn.  Any guidance you can offer is very much appreciated as I am eager to get the new machine up and running.  If you wish to send me a PM my e-mail is j.zakariasen@me.com .
> 
> Thanks,
> Jerry



Jerry, I would be more than happy to get you a copy of my schematic.  I just need a couple of days to "clean it up" and make it legible as currently it is still just chicken scratch and notes.  This is good because I have wanted to make a good copy to keep with my literature but since it has been up and running I just haven't taken the time to do it.  Now I have a reason to make a good schematic.

I don't know how Matt wires them but I didn't just change a couple of contactors, I completely removed the contactors and ran ALL of the controls through the VFD with the exception of the work light.  The single phase comes directly to the VFD and then the three phase and a ground (4, 10-gauge wires) go directly to the motor.  I then used some small 22-gauge stranded wire for the controls from the VFD to the electrical panel on the lathe where I used the existing terminal strips.  I also installed a standard 14-pin square relay (24-volt coil) to run all of circuits.  I also added some standard diodes for circuit direction as well as spike protection on one circuit.

As far as the halogen lamp, I ran 220VAC single phase where I tapped directly off of the incoming power feed and ran it directly to the existing 220VAC to 24VAC step-down transformer that came with the lathe in the electrical box.  Then I connected the halogen lamp directly to the output of the step-down transformer to the lamp.  I did this for the mere reason that if I forgot to turn the power off to the lathe I would notice the lamp being on and it would trigger me to turn the power off.  I ran my incoming 220VAC single phase power through a double pole/single throw motor starter/switch so I could turn the power off to the VFD.  I know many leave power on to their VFD's at all times but I wanted to be able to turn mine on and off.

I hope that makes sense and I will work on getting a legible wiring schematic soon.


----------



## jzakariasen

zmotorsports said:


> Jerry, I would be more than happy to get you a copy of my schematic.  I just need a couple of days to "clean it up" and make it legible as currently it is still just chicken scratch and notes.  This is good because I have wanted to make a good copy to keep with my literature but since it has been up and running I just haven't taken the time to do it.  Now I have a reason to make a good schematic.
> 
> I don't know how Matt wires them but I didn't just change a couple of contactors, I completely removed the contactors and ran ALL of the controls through the VFD with the exception of the work light.  The single phase comes directly to the VFD and then the three phase and a ground (4, 10-gauge wires) go directly to the motor.  I then used some small 22-gauge stranded wire for the controls from the VFD to the electrical panel on the lathe where I used the existing terminal strips.  I also installed a standard 14-pin square relay (24-volt coil) to run all of circuits.  I also added some standard diodes for circuit direction as well as spike protection on one circuit.
> 
> As far as the halogen lamp, I ran 220VAC single phase where I tapped directly off of the incoming power feed and ran it directly to the existing 220VAC to 24VAC step-down transformer that came with the lathe in the electrical box.  Then I connected the halogen lamp directly to the output of the step-down transformer to the lamp.  I did this for the mere reason that if I forgot to turn the power off to the lathe I would notice the lamp being on and it would trigger me to turn the power off.  I ran my incoming 220VAC single phase power through a double pole/single throw motor starter/switch so I could turn the power off to the VFD.  I know many leave power on to their VFD's at all times but I wanted to be able to turn mine on and off.
> 
> I hope that makes sense and I will work on getting a legible wiring schematic soon.



Thanks Mike, I really appreciate you sharing your expertise!

Jerry


----------



## maker of things

zmotorsports said:


>



Where did you get the digital scale?   There are so many to choose from.  I would like to add this to my lathe when I get it as well.

 -Jon


----------



## Falcon67

Search eBay for "LCD horizontal scale"


----------



## zmotorsports

maker of things said:


> Where did you get the digital scale?   There are so many to choose from.  I would like to add this to my lathe when I get it as well.
> 
> -Jon



I picked this one up from Shars.com.  I believe they sell them in 4", 6" and 8" versions.


----------



## Falcon67

From looking at the 6" I have in the drawer, the only trick with those is finding/trimming some 4-40 thread to mount the back of the readout.  Might really be metric, but a 4-40 threads in far enough to lock the slide.


----------



## zmotorsports

Falcon67 said:


> From looking at the 6" I have in the drawer, the only trick with those is finding/trimming some 4-40 thread to mount the back of the readout.  Might really be metric, but a 4-40 threads in far enough to lock the slide.



Correct Chris.  I should have mentioned that.  IF you screw the included screws in all the way while attaching the small, thin bracket to the back side of the read head, they will in fact lock the slide from moving.  I touched mine on the belt sander and removed a couple of threads prior to final installation.  This allowed for a nice solid mount yet does not interfere with the function at all.


----------



## zmotorsports

Well I did another minor modification to my lathe last night.  I had a few minutes to kill while waiting for a gentleman to pick up his truck after I repaired it so I tackled this.

I used a Hardinge HVL-H many, many years ago and only once but I fell in love with the knurled thumbscrew style of locking the dials on the compound and crossfeed.  The Hardinge lathes have ball crank style handles which allow a face style of mounting the thumbscrews.  I hadn't thought enough about it but after reading one of George Wilson's posts yesterday it gave me the kick I needed to finally do this.  

Many of the import style lathes have a half moon style or crescent shaped piece of spring steel that is placed under the dials in a groove cut in the shaft.  This is what gives the "friction" on the dials to hold them.  My pet peeve is when dialing in a diameter/dimension you have to hold the handle with one hand while turning the dial with the other.  It is difficult to hold it EXACTLY in place and not move it even a thou or two.  I removed my crossfeed handle and found that on this Taiwan style of lathe, they used a spring and ball to add friction to the dial which reside in a hold in the handle.

First off, release the tension on the jam screw located in the middle of the handle.  There is a capture style of nut which takes a spanner wrench to remove, the jam screw is located just inside of that.  Then remove the capture nut which holds the handle onto the screw shaft.  Be careful to not lose the small key that resides in the shaft.





Remove handle with dial attached.





Carefully remove the dial from the handle.  I say carefully because the ball is under tension from the spring and can fly across the shop if you are not prepared.





I placed the dial in the mill vise and center punched the "0" location for the thumbscrew.  When doing this look closely at the spacing between the handle and the hole where the spring and ball resided.  Make certain to drill the hole for the new thumbscrew where it will NOT come into contact with the hole from the spring/ball.  Otherwise you will lose the ability to lick the dial down when in that position.  I placed mine slightly outboard or closer to the handle from where the spring and ball were placed.  Also you want to make sure to clear the pointer for the dial which is on the carriage still at this point. 





Tapping the 10-32 thread.





Thumbscrew installed.





Here is a better view of the location of the hole for the ball & spring in relation to the thumbscrew.  Notice how much closer the thumbscrew is to the handle compared to the hole to the handle.





Installed back on lathe.





Next I did the same thing for the compound slide handle/dial.





Completed view of both dial modifications.


----------



## GA Gyro

Nice looking upgrade Mike... probably will do that one also.

Making a list of all this stuff...
If we have a rainy/cold winter.... well I will have lots to do inside...


----------



## GA Gyro

Hey Mike,

Have a question when you have time...
Standing in front of your 1340GT... what is the measurement from the left side of the left cabinet, to the right side of the right cabinet?  Am working out the metal for a stand.

THX

John/GA


----------



## zmotorsports

GA said:


> Hey Mike,
> 
> Have a question when you have time...
> Standing in front of your 1340GT... what is the measurement from the left side of the left cabinet, to the right side of the right cabinet?  Am working out the metal for a stand.
> 
> THX
> 
> John/GA



John, I will get you that measurement when I get home this afternoon.  Just for clarification, you are not talking about the length of the chip tray, just the outside edge of the two base cabinets that the chip tray and lathe sit on, correct?


----------



## zmotorsports

GA said:


> Hey Mike,
> 
> Have a question when you have time...
> Standing in front of your 1340GT... what is the measurement from the left side of the left cabinet, to the right side of the right cabinet?  Am working out the metal for a stand.
> 
> THX
> 
> John/GA



John, the outside dimension of the cabinets themselves is 64-3/4".


----------



## jeff_g1137

Hi
This is a great thread, more photos please,:thumbsup:
jeff


----------



## GA Gyro

zmotorsports said:


> John, I will get you that measurement when I get home this afternoon.  Just for clarification, you are not talking about the length of the chip tray, just the outside edge of the two base cabinets that the chip tray and lathe sit on, correct?




THX Mike...

Yes, that is what I was looking for.

THX a bunch!

John


----------



## GA Gyro

zmotorsports said:


> John, the outside dimension of the cabinets themselves is 64-3/4".



Thank you SOOO much Mike!

I am planning to build a stand for the lathe, along with the mill stand... 
The design is 3 long pieces of 2x2 SQ tubing, the length noted... with a larger piece of rectangular tubing perpendicular (front to back) at each end.  The end pieces will have feet (and maybe one or two in the middle)...
Yet the end tubes will take the outriggers (removable) I am designing, so I can move the machines if I need/want to.
A set of 4 outriggers will work with either the lathe or mill... 

THX again!

Another poster here has a 1340GT on order, said he talked to Matt... they should be at Matt's place by mid Dec... Looks like I will have my lathe in January... Which is better, because I am swamped with heating and AC work.
Did a system change today, customer is VERY happy!

THX again Mike, really appreciate it!

John


----------



## zmotorsports

No problem John, glad to help.


----------



## jds

Hey Mike,

I followed your posts on your new machines.  I have been on the fence about purchasing some machines but, after following you through your posts.  I have decided to order from Matt.  I am purchasing a PM 1340gt and a PM 935 T-S.  So thank you for the good reviews.  Do you have a schematic of your wiring for the VFD on your lathe?  I could use alittle help in that area.  I do not have the machines yet maybe February or March. and what model of the WJ200 are you using?

Thanks

JD


----------



## GA Gyro

jds said:


> Hey Mike,
> 
> I followed your posts on your new machines.  I have been on the fence about purchasing some machines but, after following you through your posts.  I have decided to order from Matt.  I am purchasing a PM 1340gt and a PM 935 T-S.  So thank you for the good reviews.  Do you have a schematic of your wiring for the VFD on your lathe?  I could use alittle help in that area.  I do not have the machines yet maybe February or March. and what model of the WJ200 are you using?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> JD



WOW!!!

Yet another person going with this combination... Looks like we are in good company!

I think you will enjoy these machines... there is a LOT of bang for the buck with this pair!

A couple more... and Matt will have that whole order of lathe's sold before it gets here... One of them is mine... 

Pictures when you can...  
THX


----------



## jds

I post some pictures, as soon as I get them set up John.
JD


----------



## borris

Mike:

What type of oil or oils are recommended for the Norton style QCGB?

Thanks,

Steve


----------



## zmotorsports

jds said:


> Hey Mike,
> 
> I followed your posts on your new machines. I have been on the fence about purchasing some machines but, after following you through your posts. I have decided to order from Matt. I am purchasing a PM 1340gt and a PM 935 T-S. So thank you for the good reviews. Do you have a schematic of your wiring for the VFD on your lathe? I could use alittle help in that area. I do not have the machines yet maybe February or March. and what model of the WJ200 are you using?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> JD



JD, the Hitachi VFD I am using is a WJ200-015SF. 

Glad to hear that you will be ordering these machines, they are very nice and I am very pleased with both of them. If you haven't checked out the youtube videos that I did on them they may be helpful. Take note that I am NOT an actor nor a professional video maker so be gentle. They are under my "zmotorsports" channel on youtube.com.

Here is a wiring schematic that I modified to show the way I wired my PM1340GT up.





I hope that will help you.


----------



## zmotorsports

borris said:


> Mike:
> 
> What type of oil or oils are recommended for the Norton style QCGB?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Steve



In the headstock I am running AW68 hydraulic oil.  I also put some in a squirt can and pull the plug on occassion to squirt some onto the felt above the Norton QCGB so it can drip down onto the gears as they are turning.  I use Vactra #2 way oil in a squirt can to apply to the oilers on the carriage and on the bed ways.


----------



## jds

Thank you for the information Mike.  Yes Sir, I have watched your videos, I think that you did a great job on them.

JD


----------



## vertcnc

I noticed on the Quality Machine Tools site they have a 1440E-LB for basically the same price, whats the major differences. 
Tim


----------



## zmotorsports

vertcnc said:


> I noticed on the Quality Machine Tools site they have a 1440E-LB for basically the same price, whats the major differences.
> Tim



Biggest difference being the 1340GT is Taiwanese and the 1440E-LB is mainland China.  Other than that a little larger swing and I beleive the 1440E-LB is a 2" spindle bore whereas the 1430GT is 1-9/16".


----------



## mksj

vertcnc said:


> I noticed on the Quality Machine Tools site they have a 1440E-LB for basically the same price, whats the major differences.
> Tim



Other than the basic swing and bed length, there are probably more differences then similarities when reviewing the specs. The 1440E-LB probably requires more use of change gears. The price and accessories of the 1440E-LB is pretty attractive at this point, but something like the Grizzly G0709 is equipped/priced similar to the PM1440. It has a wider threading ability and does not require change gears for imperial threads.


----------



## GA Gyro

Most folks I have read, purchased the 1340GT with the preferred package:

With Preferred Equipment Lathe Package
PM-1340GT $5599.00

· 6" High Precision 3 Jaw Chuck 
· Micrometer Carriage Stop
· 8" High Precision 4 Jaw Chuck 
· Halogen Work Light
· 1/2" Drill Chuck with MT3 Arbor and Key 
· Precision Live Center, MT#3

Below are the specifications of the 1340GT base model:
Machine Standard Features and Equipment:
PM-1340GT Main Features
· Highest Quality Lathe, Made in TAIWAN
· Large 1-9/16” Spindle Bore clear through spindle for through-headstock work
· Short Spindle Length, only 14", perfect for gunsmithing work
· Extra thick spindle wall for extra rigidity, almost double most other machines in this size
· Power feed on Carriage, and Cross Slide, both left and right, and in and out, for both turning and
facing operations with automatic feed. Allows for the best surface finish in all directions.
· Induction Hardened and Precision Ground Bed Ways to resist wear and give a long service life
· All gears and shafts in headstock hardened and precision ground for long life and extremely quiet
running
· Large diameter thick tail stock quill for more rigid and accurate tail stock operations
· Removable Gap for larger diameter work
· High quality electronics used throughout machine
· Slip Clutch on feed rod, to help prevent overloading damage of feeds and allow the use of a solid
carriage stop for repetitive work
· Precision Tapered Roller Bearings used in spindle, for the ultimate in long life, high precision, and
best surface finishes. Guaranteed Run Out +/- .0001" for ultimate precision
· Inch AND Metric thread cutting ability is a standard feature
· True INCH PITCH main lead screw, cross feed, and compound lead screws make it easy to use
for the INCH measurement System, yet still has the Metric readings on dials for the ultimate in
versatility for any job that may come about
· Splash oil bath lubrication in Headstock, and Apron, for efficient lubrication, and long life, yet
simple and reliable, and does not require any filter changes or pump maintenance as with oil pump
lubrication systems. Also no risk of losing oil flow to expensive parts as there can be with pump
lubricated systems
· Only Extremely High Precision Spindle Bearings are used, FAG, NSK, NTN, or NACHI
· Locking Tang in tail stock is provided
· Longest in class, 3 Year Warranty


----------



## vertcnc

Thanks for the info. Just trying to get an option before purchase.


----------



## GA Gyro

zmotorsports said:


> Biggest difference being the 1340GT is Taiwanese and the 1440E-LB is mainland China.  Other than that a little larger swing and I beleive the 1440E-LB is a 2" spindle bore whereas the 1430GT is 1-9/16".



Mike,

Can I ask you for a couple more measurements on your 1340GT?

1) The depth (front to back) of the cabinets.
2) The distance between the cabinets.

Reasons:
Am considering getting a piece of 1/4" plate to put between the chip pan and the cabinets... for two reasons:
*Stiffening, and
*To hang a drawer style toolbox under the pan.  

THX, hope you are having a restful and fun THXgiving holiday!

John


----------



## zmotorsports

GA said:


> Mike,
> 
> Can I ask you for a couple more measurements on your 1340GT?
> 
> 1) The depth (front to back) of the cabinets.
> 2) The distance between the cabinets.
> 
> Reasons:
> Am considering getting a piece of 1/4" plate to put between the chip pan and the cabinets... for two reasons:
> *Stiffening, and
> *To hang a drawer style toolbox under the pan.
> 
> THX, hope you are having a restful and fun THXgiving holiday!
> 
> John



John, the distance front to back of the cabinet are 13.375" and 14" including the front door.  The distance between the two cabinets is 40.125".

I wasn't sure if you wanted th chip tray or not but just in case and I had the tape measure handy, it measure 18" deep by 69" wide.

Hope that is able to help you.

Fabricating a toolbox stand is also on my "to do" list hopefully this winter.  Seems like a lot of wasted space between those two cabinets under there.


----------



## wrmiller

Good info Mike, John. I'm going to have to go back and re-read this thread a few times now that I have one of these things coming to my garage.


----------



## GA Gyro

zmotorsports said:


> John, the distance front to back of the cabinet are 13.375" and 14" including the front door.  The distance between the two cabinets is 40.125".
> 
> I wasn't sure if you wanted th chip tray or not but just in case and I had the tape measure handy, it measure 18" deep by 69" wide.
> 
> Hope that is able to help you.
> 
> Fabricating a toolbox stand is also on my "to do" list hopefully this winter.  Seems like a lot of wasted space between those two cabinets under there.



Thank you Mike... really appreciate it!

Yes... that does seem a lot of wasted space... I think it possible that vertical panel may be partly there for structural purposes... that is, to avoid 'racking' the cabinets and causing the lathe to be out of level... and maybe put stress on the headstock to way/frame joint... if the latter is a potential problem... guessing here.

Seemed to me... hanging the toolbox would be easier... and allow for ease in cleaning up chips from the floor below... The negative I see with this location of a toolbox... is the potential for chips to get into it when one opens the drawer while the lathe is running... Yeah, diverting attention when the machine is running is not a good safety practice... I am sure we all are lax sometimes.  

THX again!

John


----------



## wrmiller

My little SB somehow gets chips into the top drawer of the toolbox it sits on, and I've NEVER opened the drawer while the lathe is running. Haven't figured out how these little buggers are getting in there...


----------



## HKholic

Very informative thread with the bonus of great pics. Has definitely allowed me to grasp, albiet limited, the concept of how everything ties together regarding VFD installation. And especially for helping me make up my mind for exactly what I'm after. Didn't take a whole lot reading to pull the trigger on this one; for the machine and electronics.


----------



## borris

I just picked up a taper attachment for my PM1340gt from Matt.  I assume that I will have to remove the rear splash guard plate to mount the taper attachment.  Does anyone know if there is a way to modify the splash guard to still fit while the taper attachment is mounted?


----------



## GA Gyro

HKholic said:


> Very informative thread with the bonus of great pics. Has definitely allowed me to grasp, albiet limited, the concept of how everything ties together regarding VFD installation. And especially for helping me make up my mind for exactly what I'm after. Didn't take a whole lot reading to pull the trigger on this one; for the machine and electronics.



Welcome to the Hobby Machinist forum HK...
I see you are in Katy TX... 
I grew up in Spring Valley (Bingle Rd x I-10).  
Been in GA since 1990.


----------



## HKholic

Appreciate the welcome Gyro. Fry Rd area for me. Been all over the map myself but Houston always seems to beckon me........



GA said:


> Welcome to the Hobby Machinist forum HK...
> I see you are in Katy TX...
> I grew up in Spring Valley (Bingle Rd x I-10).
> Been in GA since 1990.


----------



## GA Gyro

HKholic said:


> Appreciate the welcome Gyro. Fry Rd area for me. Been all over the map myself but Houston always seems to beckon me........



In 2009... My Dad spent most of the year in the HOSPITAL... I did about a dozen round trips to Houston via air.  Found that I could save about 40% of the air-fair if I flew USAir and did a connection in Charlotte... over a non-stop to Houston.  

When Dad was about to get out, I was on the fence between bringing him to Atlanta, or moving back there into the house I grew up in.  Decided to stay here... however sometimes I do have fond memories of Houston... Until I remember the heat... LOL
Dad 'went home' in the summer of 2012.  

THX for the reply, hope you enjoy your 1340GT... IMO it is a lot of bang for the buck for a lathe!


----------



## GA Gyro

wrmiller19 said:


> My little SB somehow gets chips into the top drawer of the toolbox it sits on, and I've NEVER opened the drawer while the lathe is running. Haven't figured out how these little buggers are getting in there...



Oh... you did not know the machines have a mind of their own... :rofl:

Years ago, I had a guy renting a room from me... he was a member of Mensa... Was the kind of guy that would seriously try to figure out that puzzle... :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:


----------



## GA Gyro

Hey Mike (Zmotorsports),

Wonder if I can ask another question about your 1340GT?

What is the chip pan made of? Is it thin sheet metal, thick sheet metal, cast, etc... and roughly what is the thickness of the pan; wide are, not the lip... THX!
And how tall are the cabinets... 

THX Mike!

The next batch of 1340GT's is at Matt's warehouse, should ship soon.  Hope to have mine by mid Feb.


----------



## zmotorsports

The chip pan is not cast but it is fairly sturdy.  The out lip is rolled with a bead which creates a very strong edge and the middle sits flat on the two side cabinets which give it its strength.  I don't know the height right off, I will have to measure them when I get home this afternoon and get out in the shop.

Glad to hear your arrival is getting close.

Mike.


----------



## wrmiller

GA said:


> Oh... you did not know the machines have a mind of their own... :rofl:
> 
> Years ago, I had a guy renting a room from me... he was a member of Mensa... Was the kind of guy that would seriously try to figure out that puzzle... :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:



Yea, I resemble that remark (I'm a Mensa member too). But I do try to control the urge to figure the more trivial things out. Helps when you have limited play time and want to get stuff done. )


----------



## GA Gyro

wrmiller19 said:


> Yea, I resemble that remark (I'm a Mensa member too). But I do try to control the urge to figure the more trivial things out. Helps when you have limited play time and want to get stuff done. )



I have that inquisitive mind also... however I do not take tests well... never tried to join Mensa... my brother was a member.

Room-mate was a good guy, probably the most honest and trustworthy one I have had.  It seemed his mind was in hyper-drive all the time.  

Not that I need a room-mate... however being single and with a house that has an inlaw suite... may as well have the income.


----------



## GA Gyro

zmotorsports said:


> The chip pan is not cast but it is fairly sturdy.  The out lip is rolled with a bead which creates a very strong edge and the middle sits flat on the two side cabinets which give it its strength.  I don't know the height right off, I will have to measure them when I get home this afternoon and get out in the shop.
> 
> Glad to hear your arrival is getting close.
> 
> Mike.



THX Mike!

I am trying to figure out how to mount the tool-box below the pan and between the cabinets.  I was thinking to put a 1/4 plate in there, to stiffen the entire machine... that may be overkill.  Probably am gonna just wait until it gets here to determine what to do.  I have lots to figure out with the electrical.  I am leaning towards doing the electrical similar to yours (front panel low voltage controls), with the VFD box on the lower left (below the belt drive), fan will be on the upper back of the VFD box, sp oil/chips do not fall in. 

Did you do your wiring with an E-stop button that works through the VFD, and a slower normal electrical stop when the motor is turned off?

Appreciate the input!

John


----------



## zmotorsports

GA said:


> THX Mike!
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to mount the tool-box below the pan and between the cabinets.  I was thinking to put a 1/4 plate in there, to stiffen the entire machine... that may be overkill.  Probably am gonna just wait until it gets here to determine what to do.  I have lots to figure out with the electrical.  I am leaning towards doing the electrical similar to yours (front panel low voltage controls), with the VFD box on the lower left (below the belt drive), fan will be on the upper back of the VFD box, sp oil/chips do not fall in.
> 
> Did you do your wiring with an E-stop button that works through the VFD, and a slower normal electrical stop when the motor is turned off?
> 
> Appreciate the input!
> 
> John



When I finally get around to adding my toolbox under the lathe, I am going to merely remove the steel stiffener panel that screws to the two side cabinets, build a cradle to hold the toolbox but make it fasten to the same locations as the filler panel so I don't have to drill any new holes.  I will then probably just add some filler material around the perimeter of the toolbox to take up any space remaining to keep chips and dirt out.

As for the E-Stop, I have it wired in series with the control voltage so it will merely interrupts the 24v supply to the controls.  It slows the same speed as if I turned the drum switch off.  

Mike.


----------



## GA Gyro

zmotorsports said:


> When I finally get around to adding my toolbox under the lathe, I am going to merely remove the steel stiffener panel that screws to the two side cabinets, build a cradle to hold the toolbox but make it fasten to the same locations as the filler panel so I don't have to drill any new holes.  I will then probably just add some filler material around the perimeter of the toolbox to take up any space remaining to keep chips and dirt out.
> 
> As for the E-Stop, I have it wired in series with the control voltage so it will merely interrupts the 24v supply to the controls.  It slows the same speed as if I turned the drum switch off.
> 
> Mike.



THX Mike!

I am kinda hesitant to hang the toolbox from the chip pan... which would require drilling holes in the pan and a screw or bolt head on the top of the pan... getting in the way and aggravating chip removal and cleaning.
OTOH... adding a plate between the cabinets and pan is a lot of steel and hassle to fabricate and install.  Not sure there is a need for the stiffening that would come with that modification.   

I like your idea of a cradle... seems if the cabinets are hefty enough... simply a cross-brace to set the tool box on... might be adequate.  
As noted... probably need to get it here and set the cabinets and pan together (no bolts), then just look at it for a bit.

If I go the cradle route... it would not be difficult to add something behind the 'below toolbox' to stop the lathe/cabinets from 'racking'.  

Probably just need to set the cabs up and put the pan on top.... then just look at it.  The solution will become evident.  
Any and all suggestions are welcome!

John


----------



## zmotorsports

GA said:


> THX Mike!
> 
> I am kinda hesitant to hang the toolbox from the chip pan... which would require drilling holes in the pan and a screw or bolt head on the top of the pan... getting in the way and aggravating chip removal and cleaning.
> OTOH... adding a plate between the cabinets and pan is a lot of steel and hassle to fabricate and install.  Not sure there is a need for the stiffening that would come with that modification.
> 
> I like your idea of a cradle... seems if the cabinets are hefty enough... simply a cross-brace to set the tool box on... might be adequate.
> As noted... probably need to get it here and set the cabinets and pan together (no bolts), then just look at it for a bit.
> 
> If I go the cradle route... it would not be difficult to add something behind the 'below toolbox' to stop the lathe/cabinets from 'racking'.
> 
> Probably just need to set the cabs up and put the pan on top.... then just look at it.  The solution will become evident.
> Any and all suggestions are welcome!
> 
> John



I agree, I wouldn't hang anything from the actual chip tray.  I may not have expressed myself correctly when I mentioned a cradle.  I am going to fabricate a stand/cradle that will be self supporting, meaning it will have feet and will sit on the concrete.  I was also just going to secure it to the two side cabinets using the existing mounting locations to tie everything together, then add some filler around the perimeter to fill the gaps.

I hope that made more sense.  Sorry to confuse you.

Mike.


----------



## GA Gyro

zmotorsports said:


> I agree, I wouldn't hang anything from the actual chip tray.  I may not have expressed myself correctly when I mentioned a cradle.  I am going to fabricate a stand/cradle that will be self supporting, meaning it will have feet and will sit on the concrete.  I was also just going to secure it to the two side cabinets using the existing mounting locations to tie everything together, then add some filler around the perimeter to fill the gaps.
> 
> I hope that made more sense.  Sorry to confuse you.
> 
> Mike.



THX Mike.

No confusion... I am visualizing many different solutions.  
poking a hole into the chip pan is definitely not an option... 
I am gonna build a stand, so on the floor will not work for me either.  

THX for the input... still thinking...


----------



## KRW

I just got my 1340GT up and running. Been busy making parts for my side job. 
Outboard spindle spider turned out well. Took a 3" aluminum bar stock, bored out .900" deep to fit snug over the spindle, then bored the rest to 1.5625" to match the inside diameter of the spindle. Cross drilled at 90", threaded 5/16-18 for my hex head cap bolts. I also cross drilled four smaller holes and threaded for some set screws. Turned out shnazzy.
 Made a false center for truing bolts. Also turned out well and was my first threading job. I had concerns after reading the dial chart, and since I didn't want to butcher anything, I played it safe and went on "1" each time. Remington bolts are 1/2-13, and I didn't quite understand the whole chart. And, it was a Saturday. Turned out great. 
Now all I have to do is figure out the whole posting of pictures here and i am golden.


----------



## zmotorsports

KRW said:


> I just got my 1340GT up and running. Been busy making parts for my side job.
> Outboard spindle spider turned out well. Took a 3" aluminum bar stock, bored out .900" deep to fit snug over the spindle, then bored the rest to 1.5625" to match the inside diameter of the spindle. Cross drilled at 90", threaded 5/16-18 for my hex head cap bolts. I also cross drilled four smaller holes and threaded for some set screws. Turned out shnazzy.
> Made a false center for truing bolts. Also turned out well and was my first threading job. I had concerns after reading the dial chart, and since I didn't want to butcher anything, I played it safe and went on "1" each time. Remington bolts are 1/2-13, and I didn't quite understand the whole chart. And, it was a Saturday. Turned out great.
> Now all I have to do is figure out the whole posting of pictures here and i am golden.



Sounds great.  One of these days I will be getting my outboard spindle completed but it is a few notches down on my "to do" list.

Mike.


----------



## wrmiller

zmotorsports said:


> Sounds great.  One of these days I will be getting my outboard spindle completed but it is a few notches down on my "to do" list.
> 
> Mike.



I'll probably make mine right after I already need it to support a barrel...


----------



## RIO

Gentlemen:
My PM-1340GT will be here this week.  My WJ200-015SF is sitting there in the box looking at me like a dangerous mountain lion.  I wired a new two-story house by myself a few decades ago, but I don't have a clue how this VFD works, especially when you guys are talking about all the different ways to program it.  MIKE/MARK, thanks for the schematics.  I'll see if I can make something of it.  And BILL, I've read enough to know the drill:  NO PICS, IT DIDN'T HAPPEN.....so, as soon as it gets here, pics forthcoming.  Then, I'll be the little "snot-nosed kid" joining your "big boy club".  In other words, I've never turned a lathe on before in my life.  Just jet engines.  The first ever class I took in machining was a week this summer out to Gordy Gritters place to learn just enough gunsmithing/rifle building to be dangerous to me and others around.

I already have a big question:  Gordy (and others) just drilled the "outboard spider" screw holes straight into the spindle, and threaded the four counter-opposing holes for the 5/16x24 socket screws.  I have a feeling somebody here is already cringing, but I ordered the tap and drill already to execute that little maneuver.  Any advice for that?  (planning to use it to chamber barrels through the headstock, of course).

Oh, I also just got my Grizzly G0754 mill/drill this week.  Cosmoline, WD-40, cosmoline, WD-40, cos....you all know the idea.  I guess I'll start a new thread on that, since I don't see anything on here about that particular model.
I've got a friend about to help me fabricate a stand before I get the mill/drill up and running.  More to follow, especially on the lathe......

Lafe


----------



## sanddan

RIO said:


> Gentlemen:
> My PM-1340GT will be here this week.  My WJ200-015SF is sitting there in the box looking at me like a dangerous mountain lion.  I wired a new two-story house by myself a few decades ago, but I don't have a clue how this VFD works, especially when you guys are talking about all the different ways to program it.  MIKE/MARK, thanks for the schematics.  I'll see if I can make something of it.  And BILL, I've read enough to know the drill:  NO PICS, IT DIDN'T HAPPEN.....so, as soon as it gets here, pics forthcoming.  Then, I'll be the little "snot-nosed kid" joining your "big boy club".  In other words, I've never turned a lathe on before in my life.  Just jet engines.  The first ever class I took in machining was a week this summer out to Gordy Gritters place to learn just enough gunsmithing/rifle building to be dangerous to me and others around.
> 
> I already have a big question:  Gordy (and others) just drilled the "outboard spider" screw holes straight into the spindle, and threaded the four counter-opposing holes for the 5/16x24 socket screws.  I have a feeling somebody here is already cringing, but I ordered the tap and drill already to execute that little maneuver.  Any advice for that?  (planning to use it to chamber barrels through the headstock, of course).
> 
> Oh, I also just got my Grizzly G0754 mill/drill this week.  Cosmoline, WD-40, cosmoline, WD-40, cos....you all know the idea.  I guess I'll start a new thread on that, since I don't see anything on here about that particular model.
> I've got a friend about to help me fabricate a stand before I get the mill/drill up and running.  More to follow, especially on the lathe......
> 
> Lafe



Congratulations of the lathe, I just ordered mine today. Good luck on the wiring too.

I don't think the spindle gets drilled but the collar that makes up the spider. I haven't made one but possibly the spider is held onto the spindle but a set screw? Maybe one of the guy smiths will chime in.


----------



## zmotorsports

sanddan said:


> I don't think the spindle gets drilled but the collar that makes up the spider. I haven't made one but possibly the spider is held onto the spindle but a set screw? Maybe one of the guy smiths will chime in.



That is exactly how I am going to build my outboard spider.  I will machine a separate collar that the ID matches the ID of the spindle.  The collar will slip onto the outboard of the spindle and be held on with a set screw(or two) and then the four screws will be drilled/tapped into the collar itself.

On some of the Chinese lathes, the end of the spindle is threaded and people merely machine a collar that threads onto their spindle but on the PM1340GT that isn't an option.  I saw one guy just make a close tolerance fit onto the spindle, ground a small flat on the spindle for a set screw to tighten down on and it has worked flawlessly for him.

Mike.


----------



## mksj

Drilling the spindle shaft directly is probably not a very good idea unless you leave the belt/gear cover off.



zmotorsports said:


> That is exactly how I am going to build my outboard spider. I will machine a separate collar that the ID matches the ID of the spindle. The collar will slip onto the outboard of the spindle and be held on with a set screw(or two) and then the four screws will be drilled/tapped into the collar itself.



I machined my spider as you outlined. You can purchase 2.5" steel solid rod, or tubing with a 1.5"ID, which decreases the internal boring required, center bored to 1.590" and the step bore to fit over the lathe spindle.  Used three or four 5/16-24 x 1/4" NF set screws to lock it on the spindle which was dimpled. Four 3/8-24 x 1 1/4" NF allens for the spider with knurled lock rings. Insert your own bronze or brass tips, or balls for fingers. Make sure the spider holes are drilled at least 1" from the belt/gear cover, otherwise they will hit the cover when extended.  If you have a tach that uses magnets, you can embed them in the spider.  I have the specifics somewhere, need to check, can post. Spider picture and fingers posted previously .
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/pm1340gt-led-back-splash-light.35509/#post-306677
MetalsDepot.com    T2212500     2-1/2 OD x .500 wall x 1.50 ID 1020 DOM A513 Round Steel Tube 
Approximate drawing, check on your machine.


----------



## RIO

Awesome work MARK.  I'm out of my league.
One question:  the reason for drilling the spindle itself and installing the spider screws directly into the spindle is to be able to chamber the shortest possible rifle barrel through the headstock (yes, with the cover off - not desirable I know).  But, with your over-the-spindle-attachment-spider on the PM-1340GT, what would be the shortest possible barrel you could dial in with at least 1.5 inches or so of the breech sticking out from the 4 jaw?  Could you dial in a 20" barrel blank that way?

The other difficulty in drilling/tapping the four holes directly in the spindle, is you'd have to do it by hand with a drill, because it wouldn't be practical to dissassemble the lathe to put the spindle in the mill to drill the holes.  I wander if I could do it straight enough by hand?  In your case, all you did was dimple the spindle by hand, which is a lot less tedious than drilling through completely into the spindle.  Has been done by others though.


----------



## mksj

No experience with guns on the lathe. Very tight clearance to put the spider screws any closer,  with the cover on it almost hits the allen set-screws. I drilled the allen screws holes on an indexer to thread, then mounted and dimpled one set screw on the spindle, then tapped that hole, remounted, locked that set screw, then dimpled the other three holes, then removed and threaded those. This way everything lines up, also the angle on the set screws matches the drill angle. So it all locks up very well and true, no wobble.  Over the top, but was learning. The current setup, my holes are a little closer to the cover (cannot use cap screws), it is ~15" from the center of the spider screw holes to the front of the spindle face. You would probably need a spider plate mounted to a D1-4 back plate, would be about 17".  I had thought of drilling another set of spider holes closer in (1.75" from the outer end, but not into the machine spindle) offset at 45 degree from the outer holes, but then you can't get in with an indicator to center. There are different workarounds that I have seen posted. 
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Aluminum-Spider-Plate-5-Diameter/BE1125

This is just one scenario, so each individual needs to tailor to their own needs. If you decide to drill the spindle, take some larger round stock drilled with the holes and  fits on the spindle to act as a guide. I wouldn't want to try to do it freehand.


----------



## AirWolf

Those of you interested in doing barrel or action work should take a look at Bob Pastor's (aka "The Viper") fixture he designed, uses, and sells. He has a couple of videos showing how to chamber a Remington rifle. For very short barrels it may work great too - call him and discuss it with him. 269-251-3671

The man is a world champion 1,000 yard F1 Class shooter so he knows his stuff.... and at the end of the second video he shows a photo of a section of his awards wall... very talented machinist and shooter.






This video is on the fixture itself.  




He also has some videos on threading etc...


----------



## RIO

Here's my status with my new PM-1340GT:
- Matt shipped me a single-phase version, but just stuck the boxed-up three phase motor in with the shipment.  That's why I had a third box on top of my crate.  Nice of him to give me an extra motor, but what he told me was, "since I didn't have a three-phase version in stock, and I knew you were hooking up a VFD, I just sent you the single-phase version with the three phase motor".  Cool, he gave me an extra motor.  Now, I'm thinking:  I could sell both these motors and install a nice vector-rated 2HP 3phase made-in-USA motor like the Marathon Black Max Y551 like Mark mentioned in this thread.  Looking at the dimensions, I would have to re-fab the lower end of the back-splash to relieve it out to get the motor in there, but that could be done.  My big question is, would it be worth it?  Or should I just go ahead and stick that Taiwan-made 3 phase motor in there and press with the WJ200-015SF hookup like you guys?  I'm sure it would be nice to have a POT dial on my control panel, and not worry about using it in full range.  I'm also guessing this Black Max motor is a better quality unit too.  ADVICE?

View attachment IMG_20151203_114522368_HDR.jpg
View attachment IMG_20151203_191245746.jpg
View attachment IMG_20151203_191306328.jpg
View attachment IMG_20151204_215745322.jpg
View attachment IMG_20151204_220605929.jpg
View attachment IMG_20151204_223546773.jpg


----------



## wrmiller

I am using the factory 3-phase motor and have found no issues with it. But, I have no need of going 'full range' on the pot on the front panel as I use the geared head to put me in the ball-park rpm wise and use the pot to just fine tune. I seldom find the need to go below 40 or above 70 Hz, but that's just me.


----------



## RIO

Bill, thanks for the reply.  I think I'll just press on with the factory 3 phase motor.

Incidentally, why are my pictures not embedding, but only showing up as a link?


----------



## mksj

RIO said:


> My big question is, would it be worth it? Or should I just go ahead and stick that Taiwan-made 3 phase motor in there and press with the WJ200-015SF hookup like you guys? I'm sure it would be nice to have a POT dial on my control panel, and not worry about using it in full range. I'm also guessing this Black Max motor is a better quality unit too. ADVICE?


Hi Rio, Glad your lathe arrived without incident.

Agree with Bill, stick with the stock motor, it works just fine and fits.  I have never had the stock 3 phase motor loose RPM while turning or get anything past warm with continuous use with the WJ200. I usually use a wider speed range of 30-90Hz.  If it ever needed replacement, probably would go with the Marathon E467, 145TTTN6835 which should not require any modifications to the back splash shield. Blackmax would require cutting off the encoder shaft and maybe trimming some of the fins, it is probably way excessive for a lathe. THe E467 is shorter (should fit directly), made for sever duty and has a 1000:1 continuous torque range (~ 0.06-60 Hz).
http://www.electricmotorwholesale.com/MARATHON-E467.html
Mark


----------



## RIO

Great, Mark.  .  Your posts along with Bill and Mike are EXTREMELY helpful.  I'm currently studying your wiring diagram to attempt to duplicate yours/Mike's Hitachi Wj-200 setup.  Trying to decide how to integrate it all, and an electrical supply shopping list to complete all the mods, including how to run the others:  DRO power, coolant system power, halogen light power.  Also, what mods I want for the front panel:  jog/POT dial.  I like how mike did a fwd/rev for his jog, but still trying to figure how he wired it.  It's probably in his schematic if I take the time to go back and look at it.

So, also, my picture uploads are not embedding in these posts, but only showing up as a link.  Do you know why?

I had thought about giving up on ordering an upgraded USA-built motor until you posted this link to the Marathon E467.  This model changes my mind.
Now, I think I'll order a Marathon E467 and sell the other two motors that came with the lathe.  I'm sure the stock motor will work fine, but maybe I just want to know I have a little better USA-built motor running the machine.  The stock three phase motor is sitting there in a box and I have to swap it out with the single phase motor anyway, which is the main reason I think I'll just order the Marathon.  If the machine came with the 3 phase motor already mounted, I wouldn't mess with it, I'd just run it.

Besides, doing something different like installing the Marathon off the bat will give me a chance to contribute here, and tell you all how that goes, in case anybody ends up needing to swap a motor.
How much do you think I should sell these two stock motors for (the single phase I'm taking off, and the 3 phase motor that came with it)?

Thanks again, guys.


----------



## wrmiller

I have forward and reverse on my jog and love it for threading with a tap.


----------



## mksj

I would review the E467 dimensions to the stock motor in the box. Most likely the mounting holes and pulley shaft is different, the stock motor is a tight fit, and the stock 3 phase would be a drop in replacement. You might want to try it first, and then consider the E467 if you want more. It is a beast of a motor. You will be striping most the of the wiring and control box electronics from your lathe. I usually replace the stock switches/speed pot with metal 22mm ones from Automation Direct. The indicator power light needs to be a LED in most of the designs because of power draw.  If you need a schematic, I can send you several variations depending on the features you want. One individual is using a joystick (momentary ON-OFF-ON momentary switch) for his For/Rev JOG. The JOG on the WJ200 needs two separate commands to work, so the VFD JOG input needs to be ON and a direction VFD input FOR or REV. A diode is needed using a single pole switch or use  2 pole switch to prevent the JOG input from activating (backfeed) when using the spindle FOR/REV commands.  I use low voltage wiring to activate a coolant relay/contactor. Eventually planning to use a 24V solenoid to activate an air drip system that I am building. Some people use the stock transformer for the 24V incandescent light, otherwise one can use a separate 24VDC power supply. I replaced my bulb with a 12V Philips LED, very nice light without the heat.


----------



## zmotorsports

I agree with Mark above.  I too have the factory 3-phase motor and it has worked flawlessly thus far.  I don't have my frequency range quite as wide spread as Mark though.  I have mine set from 45-75 Hz.  Basically +/-15 from standard 60Hz.  I can run it slower if needs be momentarily but I don't want to run it too long at much lower frequency than that.

Congrats on the lathe and I hope to see some pictures of it soon.

Mike.


----------



## RIO

Thanks guys.  I would not be attempting all this without your info from this forum and schematics from MARK and MIKE.
Since Matt just shipped me a complete single-phase lathe setup, then just stuck a 3 phase motor in a box and shipped with it, I have to do a motor / wiring swap anyway to convert to 3 phase.  Therefore, just for the fun of it, I'm ordering the Marathon E467, and plan to sell the other two stock motors to pay for it.  I studied the E467 specs, and my conclusions are:  it will fit dimensionally for sure;  I will need to buy a 7/8 shaft pulley for the motor (new belt too, while we're at it);  the mounting holes MIGHT lineup, but if not, I'll drill new ones.  I see no other down sides to putting this motor on the PM-1340GT, and I see potential benefits in many areas.  In the end, the stock motor might have worked just as good, but I think I'll do this just for fun.

When I try to post pictures using "Upload a File", ALL IT DOES IS INSERT THE LINK.  Is this because I'm new on the forum?

On the wiring:
I am trying to duplicate you guys as much as possible, and I have my EE - degree'd cousin here visiting from Ohio to help me.  I do have the DRO and the coolant pump to power also, and I will for sure want to install the breaking resistor, since there is no foot brake with this machine.  Other than that, mine should be mirror-image to yours.

I'll try to post pictures of my progress again, and see if I can get them to embed as a picture instead of just a link.


Lafe (RIO)

View attachment IMG_20151203_114522368_HDR.jpg


----------



## zmotorsports

RIO said:


> Thanks guys.  I would not be attempting all this without your info from this forum and schematics from MARK and MIKE.
> When I try to post pictures using "Upload a File", ALL IT DOES IS INSERT THE LINK.  Is this because I'm new on the forum?
> 
> 
> I'll try to post pictures of my progress again, and see if I can get them to embed as a picture instead of just a link.
> 
> 
> Lafe (RIO)
> 
> View attachment 116106



Thanks Lafe.

As far as pictures go, I am a bit different and don't like to simply add them as an attachment.  I like to use a picture hosting format and then post them directly to the body of the message.  Makes it much nicer for viewing and I think the picture quality is much better as well.

Mike.


----------



## RIO

CRACKED THE CODE ON MY PICTURE UPLOAD PROBLEM, the file was too big.....duh.
So, here are a few I've been trying to post:

HELPS TO HAVE A NEIGHBOR THAT OWNS A FENCING SUPPLY BUSINESS -----> BORROWED LOADER
(Third box on top is the extra 3 phase motor)







After getting it through the door, we uncrated it, then jacked it up and screwed 4 little caster wheels to the bottom, which enabled us to roll it right into the machine room.  THIS WAS REALLY SLICK.






Bought a 1/2-13 tap at Tractor Supply Company to re-cut the bottom holes in the stand for leveling pads.  It definitely cut more than just paint.





....then the levelers from Enco screwed right in by hand





My 3 phase motor came in a box







More to follow, let's see how this works the first time posting pictures
-  Lafe


----------



## zmotorsports

No dice on the pictures Lafe.

Mike.


----------



## RIO

Alright, so the pictures are too big, but they work at least!  (New Droid Turbo 2 phone takes BIG pictures)

How about now, Mike?  Looks like they worked from here....


----------



## sanddan

So RIO, my PM-1340GT is arriving tomorrow and it was a 1ph model that Mike said he could install a 3ph motor on. I wonder if it will show up with the 3ph motor in an extra box? I am planning on a single relay VFD wiring setup similar to Mike's but still in the data gathering phase so it might change.


----------



## RIO

It could come either way depending on what he has in stock.  Call Matt if you want to know before it arrives, he's great to talk with.  I ordered the Marathon E467 like Mark (mksj) indicated in this thread. Based on what the other guys say, I'm sure the stock three phase motor work fine, I just did it for the fun of it, and to let everyone on here know how it goes with the Marathon.  I'm planning to use the potentiometer to vary the speeds and also the resistor braking which will be a lot better motor probably for that.  Good luck man, enjoy!


----------



## zmotorsports

I can see the pictures now Lafe.  The lathe looks great, so does the HUGE grin on your face.

Congrats.

Mike.


----------



## RIO

Great, thanks Mike.  No way I would be getting this done without you and the guys on here, not to mention my cousin who is here from Ohio helping me.  
I ordered the Marathon E467.  It's a 7/8 shaft, so I'll need a new step pulley.  This looks like the closest one I've found so far:
http://www.electricmotorsite.com/pc/pul_step_0875/MAS42x0875

I'm also planning what might be trial and error with Napa belt sizes.  I'll start with the one you bought, and go from there.  Hopefully it works first try.  Having enough travel for adjustment will be the unknown.

Also:  I have two stock motors that will be looking for a new home.  I want to let you guys know first in case any of you want to buy either of these motors from me for a backup, before they hit craigslist.   Should be able to get at least a couple hundred apiece out of them maybe?

Shipping cost from NY to AZ might be high though. LOL  






Single phase motor plate:






3 phase motor plate:






Next big question:  why couldn't I use the same VFD to power a simple 3/4 HP 3 phase buffer motor like this one?:  http://www.mile-x.com/baldor-334b-3ph-buffer/
Or better yet, why not use the same VFD to power my G0754 mill/drill? (after swapping the motor of course to a three phase one).
You would never run any two at the same time, of course, but could I wire all three machines to the same VFD, and relay-switch the setup to only run one motor with the VFD at any point in time?


----------



## sanddan

I use the same 30amp 220v circuit for both my lathe and mill but never run them both at the same time. It's only me in the shop so that is easy to do but would not be a good idea in a commercial shop with more than one person working in it. As to the VFD, I would prefer to have a separate VFD for each piece of equipment. The programming required for each application would make it inconvenient to even try to use one VFD for several machines. At just under $300 their not cheap but also not overly expensive either. You could also look at a cheaper but less featured VFD like a TECO for a machine that doesn't need the extra features.


----------



## mksj

I agree with sanddan, the program and overload parameters are quite different. Th WJ200 can be set for two different motors, but both would need to respond to the same inputs. A 1Hp Teco VFD is about $150, so would be my first choice and can run off of 120V. My mill has two VFDs for the axis drives and a variable DC main drive, much easier to go that route. If you need to go really inexpensive for a VFD drive, KB Electronics has some that you can pick up for under $100, but need an enclosure, etc. Smaller mills generally have pretty basic VFD requirements. A word of caution, many of the cheaper VFDs do not offer 3 wire control which works well for mills. Last Teco VFD build required a relay board to convert over to 3 wire with momentary direction/stop switches.

May want to start a new post so others can follow each of your builds.


----------



## zmotorsports

I wasn't quite sure where to post this but I figured I may as well put it with my lathe's original thread rather than start a new thread, maybe I will post it in project of the day as well.

I have been wanting to machine an outboard spider for the lathe spindle.  I started by measuring the spindle.





I also noticed that the hole in the cover was not symmetrical with the protruding spindle.  The hole was favoring one side more than the other and I needed adequate clearance for the sleeve I was going to machine.

Here you can see where I roughly marked with a Sharpie where I needed to trim.





Here I clamped the cast aluminum cover down to my mill table.





Setting up the boring head to clean up some of the casting flash in the existing hole.  I would then merely move the table in the "Y" axis and offset it about .150".





Making progress.





Boring completed.





Cover test fit.  The clearance is much more even around the spindle now and ready to accept an outboard spider without coming in contact with the cover.





My rough dimensions of the spider.





As soon as I have some more time in the shop I will start on the spider as I found a piece of thick walled tubing to start with in my scrap bin.

Mike.


----------



## sanddan

Mike,
Is the ID of the spindle a machined surface on yours? When I was cleaning the shipping gunk off the end of the spindle it seemed like the ID was a rough surface. The hole in my cover is also off centered by quite a bit.
Dan


----------



## zmotorsports

Dan, the inside of the spindle appears to be a machined surface.  It measures 1.595".  Just slightly over the 1-9/16" advertised spindle bore.

Mike.


----------



## Old96er

I have been striking out on trying to find a lathe locally for about a year, this thread has me considering the 1340.


----------



## zmotorsports

Old96er said:


> I have been striking out on trying to find a lathe locally for about a year, this thread has me considering the 1340.



I was in the same situation.  I looked locally for some old American iron for nearly a year before I realized I wasn't going to find what I was looking for and even if I did it would end up being a long term project reconditioning it, which I didn't want.  That is when I started researching new Taiwanese machines and stumbled across this forum as well as Matt from Quality Machine Tools.

I could not find much out there on either of the machines that I ended up purchasing which was the biggest reason for me starting a thread on each as well as my youtube videos on the machines, to hopefully help people who are considering either the PM1340GT lathe or the PM935TV mill give them a bit of feel for them before laying down that kind of money.  I hope it has been helpful to you.

I highly recommned the PM1340GT, but I may be a bit biased.

Mike.


----------



## GA Gyro

Agree...

If the PM 1340GT fits your needs and price range...

It is, IMO, an excellent choice!


----------



## Rich V

Mike
Your review along with others on here greatly helped in making my purchase (1340GT & PM935TV)




zmotorsports said:


> I was in the same situation.  I looked locally for some old American iron for nearly a year before I realized I wasn't going to find what I was looking for and even if I did it would end up being a long term project reconditioning it, which I didn't want.  That is when I started researching new Taiwanese machines and stumbled across this forum as well as Matt from Quality Machine Tools.
> 
> I could not find much out there on either of the machines that I ended up purchasing which was the biggest reason for me starting a thread on each as well as my youtube videos on the machines, to hopefully help people who are considering either the PM1340GT lathe or the PM935TV mill give them a bit of feel for them before laying down that kind of money.  I hope it has been helpful to you.
> 
> I highly recommned the PM1340GT, but I may be a bit biased.
> 
> Mike.


----------



## RIO

Call me crazy, but I just drilled and tapped four holes (off hand with a drill) right in my spindle on my brand new PM-1340GT.  It came out great!!  I'm planning to modify the cover or make a new one so the spindle is exposed with the gears and belt covered (like the Grizzly G0509).  In the mean time, I'll have to run it without the cover when I need to use the outboard spider.


----------



## dave2176

RIO said:


> Call me crazy, but I just drilled and tapped four holes (off hand with a drill) right in my spindle on my brand new PM-1340GT.  It came out great!!  I'm planning to modify the cover or make a new one so the spindle is exposed with the gears and belt covered (like the Grizzly G0509).  In the mean time, I'll have to run it without the cover when I need to use the outboard spider.


Please let us know the distance from the spider to the far side of your 4 jaw chuck. Looks like it saved length if you need something shorter. I think it wouldn't be too hard to make an auxiliary cover to protect the area modified in the original cover to allow for the fit.
Dave


----------



## AirWolf

Maybe consider something like these with the brass tip  - then you wouldn't need to do anything to the cover for the most part... maybe enlarge the spindle hole some for clearance. Only take a few seconds to take the cover off- set everything up, and then another few seconds to reinstall the cover.. 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=10n48fs


----------



## RIO

Dave, first pic is showing where I measured from (hooked on outside of chuck jaw):








This pic is showing you how the measurement comes out on the other end:







Bottom line is, I can chamber a 20" match barrel blank through the headstock, while even still leaving 2" sticking out the 4 jaw.  That's a VERY good thing.




Good look at the finished spider, and my Marathon E467 motor:







Airwolf, thanks for the advice, but the link just went to the home page.


By the way, Mike, thanks for letting me post in your thread!  I'll start a new one if you think it's getting too busy in here.  Also, I have planned to give you guys an update on my progress, but it's just been too busy!  I'm going to post a youtube video someday too if I ever get the time.
Thanks again, Mike, Mark, et al.  I wouldn't have made it this far without you guys.

RIO / Lafe


----------



## mksj

Looking real nice. Good to know that the Marathon E467 motor fits for those that might want to switch out there single phase motors at some point. Look forward to hearing how it runs and a review.
Thanks,
Mark


----------



## dave2176

17.5", that is sweet.


----------



## RIO

So, my main, and pretty much only major complaint about the PM-1340GT is the stand.  We have this awesome, solid, precision lathe, and then we set it on this sort of flimsy stand.  I just bump the headstock with my hand, and get vibration/shake in the whole thing.  How bad?  Maybe not as bad as I think, but all I can think is that I wish this stand was about a 1000 pound cast iron.  I'm even considering take it off the stand, taking the two stand pieces out and pouring them full of concrete.  I'm also thinking about taking the screw-in leveling pads off and sitting it directly on the floor, and just shimming it to level it.  Both of these ideas are not very good.
Any thoughts on how to make this lathe level-able while also giving it the rock-solid stand it deserves?
Also, one question:  these leveling pads:  is the lock nut intended to go on the bottom, or on the top of the hole?  I have them on the bottom of the hole, maybe that's wrong, and causing some of the issue?
Thanks, guys.
RIO


----------



## dave2176

My G lathe has a similar stand issue, it just doesn't feel right. I was thinking about building an angle iron frame to wrap each stands base, bolt the stand to it and then put leveling feet in front and in back of the stands for a total of 4 feet instead of 8. In my mind that would make the base deeper and help it be more stable. 
Dave


----------



## davidpbest

RIO said:


> Dave, first pic is showing where I measured from (hooked on outside of chuck jaw):
> 
> Good look at the finished spider, and my Marathon E467 motor:
> 
> View attachment 119210
> 
> 
> Thanks again, Mike, Mark, et al.  I wouldn't have made it this far without you guys.
> 
> RIO / Lafe





RIO said:


> Good look at the finished spider, and my Marathon E467 motor:


RIO,  Great job.   I have a PM1340GT on order - due in probably in March '16.   I went out to sanddan's shop yesterday to look over his machine, and take measurements for building my own stand.  At the moment, I'm planning to build a torsion-beam stand, bolting the lathe to a 6-foot section of  2 x 10 rectangular steel with 0.25" wall thickness, supported on both ends by welded steel tube frames with space under the lathe for a pair of Lista cabinets.   I'll post progress as it goes along - I'm new to welding, so this should be interesting.

I'd love it if you could post just a few more specifics about your Marathon motor - specifically if it fit, what you had to do to get it mounted to the lathe, the specific motor pulley and belt you ended up using.   Thanks for sharing.

David


----------



## mksj

I thought of bracing my lathe cabinets with beams similar to what David is mentioning, and bolt two rectangular beams at the top and bottom on the cabinets on the back. I also sometimes mass load the metal hollow beams by plugging the ends and poring cement in the unbolted section of the beam. But since I have access to the back of my machine, I built two shelves out of 2x2 steel box beams which are bolted between the stands. I mass load them with chucks (just kidding, but a good reason to buy more of them).


----------



## sanddan

I built a base for my Enco 12x36 lathe so it would have more support than the factory stand. It uses 2 laser cut 1/2" thick plates, one under each column, that are tied together with 2"x3"x.120" wall tubing. This allowed me to spread out the leveling feet for more stability and eliminated the need for the center sheetmetal stiffener. I added a piece of aluminum diamond plate as a shelf. I think I will remove the tubing so I can adapt the plates to the PM1340GT stand width. I'll use 2x2 tubing this time around as the 2x3 was overkill for this (I had some laying around so I used it).


----------



## abrace

davidpbest said:


> RIO,  Great job.   I have a PM1340GT on order - due in probably in March '16.   I went out to sanddan's shop yesterday to look over his machine, and take measurements for building my own stand.  At the moment, I'm planning to build a torsion-beam stand, bolting the lathe to a 6-foot section of  2 x 10 rectangular steel with 0.25" wall thickness, supported on both ends by welded steel tube frames with space under the lathe for a pair of Lista cabinets.   I'll post progress as it goes along - I'm new to welding, so this should be interesting.
> David



2x10 1/4" wall square tube? I think you will find that is a little big for the job...way too big and expensive. I just picked up some 2x2" 3/16" for my G4003G, and it is too beefy. I wish I had gone with 1/8" .120 wall.


----------



## qualitymachinetools

Hey Rio, take those screw in leveling pads out if you want it to be more solid. A lot more solid.

They are designed to be bolted to the floor, although most people do not want to do that , (Myself included)  it is a LOT more solid.
  The stand is fairly heavy steel compared to many, and although it is not a cast iron base, it is pretty solid for a machine of that size. 
 So before going through all of the trouble of building another stand or adding weight to that one, if you want it to be as solid as possible, anchor it down. 
 The bolts that came in it originally are meant to adjust the level, and you would anchor it down with the holes just beside those and use both. No shimming needed.
  It actually works really well like that, you will be surprised how much of a difference it will make.


----------



## qualitymachinetools

I like the spider that you drilled in there too, looks good!


----------



## davidpbest

abrace said:


> 2x10 1/4" wall square tube? I think you will find that is a little big for the job...way too big and expensive. I just picked up some 2x2" 3/16" for my G4003G, and it is too beefy. I wish I had gone with 1/8" .120 wall.



I'm talking about the horizontal beam that supports the lathe.   The lathe platforms on the PM1340GT that sit on a stand are roughly 8x8 - so it needs something at least that wide to sit upon - hence the 2x10 for the main beam.    The legs of the stand would of course be something more like 2x2x 0.125.   You might find this curiosity worth viewing (esp. about 4:00 into the video):   




What I have in mind is something similar but more refined, and Lista cabinets under.   Since I use MQL for cooling and don't need flood pump, I prefer to have the chip pan unattached below the lathe so it can be removed.

David


----------



## abrace

davidpbest said:


> I'm talking about the horizontal beam that supports the lathe.   The lathe platforms on the PM1340GT that sit on a stand are roughly 8x8 - so it needs something at least that wide to sit upon - hence the 2x10 for the main beam.    The legs of the stand would of course be something more like 2x2x 0.125.   You might find this curiosity worth viewing (esp. about 4:00 into the video):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I have in mind is something similar but more refined, and Lista cabinets under.   Since I use MQL for cooling and don't need flood pump, I prefer to have the chip pan unattached below the lathe so it can be removed.
> 
> David



Ok, I see what you are doing there. Since the 'beam' is only welded at about the top 1/3 you would want thicker steel than usual. Usually with square tubing you weld all 4 edges and that gives it a ton of strength and allows you to get away with thinner steel. 

         That stand isn't exactly my style but it is an interesting design. Guy looks like he may have over engineered a tad 

I don't know what you have for a welder but unless you are good at doing multiple passes (root pass, fill passes etc) you are gonna want something reasonably beefy. 1/4" is thick steel for a small 110V welder, and you are gonna want good penetration.

I am not a great welder, still in school for it. My intermediate stick welding class actually kicks off on Tuesday.

---Aaron


----------



## davidpbest

How does 250 AMP water cooled TIG sound to ya?   Think I can get enough penetration in 1/4" steel with that?  

David


----------



## abrace

davidpbest said:


> How does 250 AMP water cooled TIG sound to ya?   Think I can get enough penetration in 1/4" steel with that?



New to welding and you already have a 250A tig welder? Usually people new to welding have some harbor freight 100A gasless mig welder. When you start a new hobby, you don't mess around!

---Aaron


----------



## zmotorsports

Just in response to the welding amperage of your machine, I have a Miller 300DX Tigrunner and although has a 300A capability, very, very seldom to I need any more than about 160-170 amps.  When you gut up into thick enough material that you need more, you really should be doing multiple passes with the GTAW process.

Mike.


----------



## zmotorsports

Well, it has been two years now with my PM1340GT so I thought I would revive my old thread with a new modification(s).

I had a guy back out on me on a job this weekend that I had scheduled in the shop so I had some free time Friday night and Saturday morning.  Since my wife had breakfast plans with her sisters on Saturday I decided to knock another item off of my "Want To Do" list as my "Need To Do" list is actually shrinking.

I have never really liked the cheap feeling plastic knobs on my lathe but seeing as how they weren't affecting the performance of it I kept putting off doing anything.  I saw Mark's (mksj) new knobs for his lathe which turned out so nice and it got me thinking to machine some new ones for mine as well.  Friday night after getting home and seeing that I had some free time I decided to address the knobs on my lathe.

Chucked up some 1" 60601-T6 I had in the metal rack.  I turned it to .820" to match the original ones on the headstock and two on the apron.  I then added a taper for aesthetics and few grooves with a form tool that I ground again for aesthetics before running some aluminum polish over them and parting off.






Two down and only five more to go.  Once I got a drawing with some measurements of how I wanted them to look they actually went quite fast.





Here are the two on the gearbox at the headstock end installed.





Once I got the four smaller ones completed, I grabbed a piece of 1.250" 6061 I started on the larger ones for the tailstock and one on the carriage.  These ones I turned down to 1.10" but incorporated the same grooves and taper for a matching look.





Knobs on apron completed and installed.





Tailstock knobs installed.





While I had swarf on the lathe I decided to knock out one more item on my "Want To Do" list for the lathe.  I hate having to grab a 3mm allen wrench each time to lock down the compound slide, so I decided to make a lever to perform the function.  I started with a piece of .375" stainless steel and used my 5C collet chuck.





Turned and threaded to the 6MM-1.0 thread pitch required.





Lathe work completed for the two components.





After installing for a test fit I marked where I needed to drill and tap for the handle.





Completed and installed.  Unlocked position.  I also drilled and installed a small roll pin to act as a stop/rest.





Locked position.





After cleaning the lathe, mill and the rest of the shop I still had the whole afternoon to relax and hang out with my son and wife and enjoy the great weather we had over the weekend.

Mike.


----------



## wrmiller

Making me feel guilty Mike. I made knobs for the feed and threading levers soon after getting the lathe set up, but never finished the job. Need to make a few for the mill too.


----------



## zmotorsports

wrmiller said:


> Making me feel guilty Mike. I made knobs for the feed and threading levers soon after getting the lathe set up, but never finished the job. Need to make a few for the mill too.



Thanks Bill.  I have a ball turning tool still tool still on my "Want To Do" list so as soon as I have time to machine that I will be making a few knobs for my mill as well as my drill press.  I HATE plastic knobs but I understand why companies use them, price.  I just think they  "cheapen" the feel of my otherwise quality machines.

Mike.


----------



## Bamban

I saw a few outboard spiders showcased on this thread, while I do not have a 1340 GT, the spindle on my Acer 1236 is about the same size, for the spiders I tried different screws to hold the barrels till I finally settled on this configuration, aluminum fingers with 1/4 inch pockcet cut wth 1/4 inch ball end mill, and 1/4 inch ball bearings in a milled pocket at the tip of the 3/8 x 24 socket heads. I made different size fingers to accommodate different diameter barrels.  
	

		
			
		

		
	














	

		
			
		

		
	
 The system, finger clamps on both front and rear spiders, allows the barrel to pivot/gimbal easier than with dog point type screws using different materials. The system has more clamping surface on the barrel as well.

The outboard spider screws are on the long side, that's what I had left over from the front spider so I used them, they do no snag on anything though.

Just an unsolicited, sharing what I learned cranking out barrels.


----------



## wrmiller

zmotorsports said:


> Thanks Bill.  I have a ball turning tool still tool still on my "Want To Do" list so as soon as I have time to machine that I will be making a few knobs for my mill as well as my drill press.  I HATE plastic knobs but I understand why companies use them, price.  I just think they  "cheapen" the feel of my otherwise quality machines.
> 
> Mike.



I am ashamed to admit that other than getting it ready to use, I haven't touched my Holdridge 4-d since. 

Your post had me thinking of getting it out and making some of those nice tear-drop knobs you see on the South Bend mills on the Grizzly site. But I'm afraid I'm more into just kicking back and enjoying my day off.


----------



## sanddan

Nice upgrades  Mike.


----------



## RIO

Mike, do you have the taper attachment, or did you just use the compound to cut the taper on the knobs?
NICE WORK.
Gives me ideas about making my own bolt knobs for rifles.
But now you made us all discontent with our plastic knobs that seemed to be fine before!  HAHA.
RIO


----------



## zmotorsports

sanddan said:


> Nice upgrades  Mike.



Thanks Dan.



RIO said:


> Mike, do you have the taper attachment, or did you just use the compound to cut the taper on the knobs?
> NICE WORK.
> Gives me ideas about making my own bolt knobs for rifles.
> But now you made us all discontent with our plastic knobs that seemed to be fine before!  HAHA.
> RIO



RIO, I do not have a taper attachment.  I just used the compound slide set at 10-degrees for the taper on the knobs.  This is kind of what helped me to make up my decision to make a lock handle for the compound as I was tired of reaching for that 3mm allen wrench to lock the compound between operations.

Thanks everyone for your comments.  I really appreciate them.  I also hope everyone is happy with their PM1340GT's and this thread and video have been helpful.  I remember when I was looking at lathes back in late 2013/early 2014 there was absolutely NO information available on this particular lathe and it was frustrating.  I also remember forum members asking a lot of questions after taking possession of mine which is why I did the first video.  I wanted to make some information available for anyone else out there who may be looking at this lathe and was getting frustrated by the lack of information.

Thanks everyone.

Mike.


----------



## JimFouch

RIO said:


> I ordered the Marathon E467.  It's a 7/8 shaft, so I'll need a new step pulley.  This looks like the closest one I've found so far:
> http://www.electricmotorsite.com/pc/pul_step_0875/MAS42x0875



I just picked up my new PM1340GT yesterday and also will be upgrading to teh E467 motor. The link for the pulley is no longer working. Do you have any advice for a replacement?


----------



## RIO

I went with a single pulley.  I decided the low-end speeds were all I would ever need.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00498JV0E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Belt:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJJF5DW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Running the VFD with this pulley and belt, it's running placard speeds at 50 hz.

RIO


----------



## JimFouch

RIO said:


> I went with a single pulley.  I decided the low-end speeds were all I would ever need.
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00498JV0E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Belt:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJJF5DW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Running the VFD with this pulley and belt, it's running placard speeds at 50 hz.
> 
> RIO



Thanks man, you guys are awesome.

I noticed that the bases are already drilled and tapped for 1/2-13 for the feet. Not sure if this is something new, as I have seen pictures where guys have had to drill and tap them.


----------



## mksj

If you are going with a sensorless vector type VFD, you can use a slightly wider speed range and probably do just fine with a single groove 3.0-3.2" pulley running to the larger stock headstock pulley. This should give a speed range of around 50-1800 RPM using 90Hz on the E467. Some motors (like the Marathon BlackMax and BlueMax) maintain full Hp up to 2-3X their base speed/Hz, so you can use a smaller motor pulley and easily go to 120Hz or more. Nice to have such a wide speed range, I do this on my Pm1340GT, never been able to load it and see more than 2-3 RPM change in speed. Some information is here.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/thre...ding-with-a-proximity-stop.45977/#post-391819

The 1/2-13 tapped hole may need to be chased with a tap first, it can be used for the feet, but I believe it is used for a bolt to tension the base if bolted to the foundation using the larger hole. Some bracing on the bottom of the cabinets or between them may be warranted as there can be some cabinet flex.


----------



## JimFouch

mksj said:


> The 1/2-13 tapped hole may need to be chased with a tap first, it can be used for the feet, but I believe it is used for a bolt to tension the base if bolted to the foundation using the larger hole. Some bracing on the bottom of the cabinets or between them may be warranted as there can be some cabinet flex.



Yes, I chased it with a tap and it's fine now. 

I ordered some of these to use as feet http://www.ebay.com/itm/221548097991?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


----------



## sanddan

Jim, if using the standard steel bases, I would use 6 leveling feet. Drill and tap 4 holes on the main (LH) column for 4 feet to support the headstock and use the existing 2 holes on the RH column. Someone here did this and posted pictures (REO I think). The 6 feet will help prevent flex in the base and reduce vibrations.


----------



## JimFouch

sanddan said:


> Jim, if using the standard steel bases, I would use 6 leveling feet. Drill and tap 4 holes on the main (LH) column for 4 feet to support the headstock and use the existing 2 holes on the RH column. Someone here did this and posted pictures (REO I think). The 6 feet will help prevent flex in the base and reduce vibrations.



I have six feet on order.

Right now I have the lathe setup on the stock 4 feet in my garage while I do the 3 phase VFD conversion and motor swap out. There is a lot more room to work there. Once I get everything dialed in, I'll take it all apart, drill and tap the 4 feet on the main cabinet. Then it will all be moved into it's final place in my basement next to my PM940M-CNC.


----------



## jpooch00

Hey Mike,

Total noob here, thanking you for the wiring diagrams and all the other info and videos that you took the time to post/make.

I'm getting the same combo of machinery as you and really appreciate all the help I can get!! 

Best wishes,

JP


----------



## zmotorsports

Glad to hear the information was helpful JP.

Also congrats on the new machines.  I think you will be happy with them.

Do you have an ETA on them?

Mike.


----------



## jpooch00

zmotorsports said:


> Glad to hear the information was helpful JP.
> 
> Also congrats on the new machines.  I think you will be happy with them.
> 
> Do you have an ETA on them?
> 
> Mike.




Yeah, I'm sending the deposit tomorrow for the two machines plus fixtures and accessories for both.   Pretty darned hard hit on my finances to do this all at once, from scratch, but it's only money, right? 

I have to say right up front that if it hadn't been for your videos and this thread, I would very likely have spent a bunch of money on inferior equipment that I'd have ultimately been seriously disappointed and frustrated with - so thanks!

They're about 6 weeks out, as of now.

One question, is there any good reason to go with the more expensive Hitachi brand VFD for the mill (one-phase only in my shop) or can I just as well go with a cheaper brand, since I'll only be using it as a three phase, 60 HZ power supply and not as a speed control?

Definitely going with your exact components for the lathe VFD.

Respect,

JP


----------



## zmotorsports

Glad you found this site and my videos helpful and informative JP.

As for the milling machine, I simply went single phase on mine and have been very pleased with the variable speed of the machine itself.  I also used the Hitachi VFD on the lathe and to be honest if you get it from Matt the price is hard to beat.  I think if I were to have ordered the mill in 3ph I personally would still use the Hitachi VFD.

Mike.


----------



## bretthl

TFC said:


> Mike,
> By your photos, it looks as though the NAPA belt you used to replace the OEM belt is longer than the OEM belt.  Is that the case?  I can't get the motor to adjust far enough upward due to: 1.) Cap screws in the way which are impossible to access/remove unless I remove the entire motor. Not sure what those cap screws do so I'm leery of pulling them anyway. 2.) Wiring from VFD to motor, installed by QMT, is too short to allow any further upward travel of the motor unless the VFD is disconnected.  Changing a belt position should not be this hard. I made some measurements and now I'm on the way to NAPA to get a longer belt so I can use the A and B positions.  There is no way, with the obstacles I described, that the OEM belt would ever fit both pulley positions.  Thought about doing the link belt thing but NAPA has none in stock and I'll wait till at least Monday for a special order.  BTW, nice photos of your machine and enhancements.  I have had some issues/obstacles with my 1340GT that just should not have happened in a "new" machine.  QMT is taking care of everything but it is still more frustration + obstacles = time.  Thanks.
> Tim



I also just purchased a Precision Mathews 1340GT lathe and experienced the exact same problem as Tim describes above.  I replaced the belt with a 5L280W as suggested by "zmotorsports" (the original belt is a B-25/635, a 25" belt that is too short).  The 28" belt however is too long.  When the belt is in the high speed position the motor sits to low causing the motor drive pulley to impinge on cover plate such that you can't get it back on.  I called PM support and got absolutely no help.  According to Matt by email "Most people replace the belts with link belts, they run smoother, if youre having a problem with the belt they can check that out for you."

Why not put the proper size belt on the machine in the first place?  This is touted as a Taiwanese precision lathe.

So now I will try another size belt, 27" by my estimate.  Maybe 26".  Why am I wasting my time with this?


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## mksj

The stock belt on my 1340GT did work on both the low and high speed pulleys, unfortunately it immediately started to disintegrate. I have been using the Gates Tri-Power notched belts and they have worked very well, I did find that I needed both a BX24 and BX25 size belts for both pulley ratios (although I currently use mine as a single speed on the low speed speed pulley combination). The stock belt is somewhere in between the two. As there are many variables as to how the belts are sized and sit in the pulley, not all belts are the same exact size,  so there is some trial and error until one finds something that works. It has been recommended that link belts may not be the optimum solution in this application, from what I understand they are unidirectional. Fine for saws and drill presses running in a single direction, but not optimal for bidirectional belted machines. I have used the Gates for 3+ years, I have had almost no wear or sheading, they run very smooth and wrap very well around the smaller motor pulley without taking a set.
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/education/manuals/accu-link-belt-instructions/
http://www.gates.com/products/autom...d-accessory-belt-drive-system/tri-power-belts

If using a VFD with the stock motor, then I suggest using a single pulley ratio and using the VFD maximum frequency to achieve the same top speed. You can flip the motor pulley, so that the larger motor pulley lines up with the larger headstock pulley. You will need a longer belt. This with running the motor to 90Hz will give you the same top speed as before, no belt changes. If the motor is changed to an inverter type, then one can use a 2.5-2.7" motor pulley and run the motor to 120Hz, which is what I do.


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## bretthl

mksj said:


> The stock belt on my 1340GT did work on both the low and high speed pulleys, unfortunately it immediately started to disintegrate. I have been using the Gates Tri-Power notched belts and they have worked very well, I did find that I needed both a BX24 and BX25 size belts for both pulley ratios (although I currently use mine as a single speed on the low speed speed pulley combination). The stock belt is somewhere in between the two. As there are many variables as to how the belts are sized and sit in the pulley, not all belts are the same exact size,  so there is some trial and error until one finds something that works. It has been recommended that link belts may not be the optimum solution in this application, from what I understand they are unidirectional. Fine for saws and drill presses running in a single direction, but not optimal for bidirectional belted machines. I have used the Gates for 3+ years, I have had almost no wear or sheading, they run very smooth and wrap very well around the smaller motor pulley without taking a set.
> http://www.in-lineindustries.com/education/manuals/accu-link-belt-instructions/
> http://www.gates.com/products/autom...d-accessory-belt-drive-system/tri-power-belts
> 
> If using a VFD with the stock motor, then I suggest using a single pulley ratio and using the VFD maximum frequency to achieve the same top speed. You can flip the motor pulley, so that the larger motor pulley lines up with the larger headstock pulley. You will need a longer belt. This with running the motor to 90Hz will give you the same top speed as before, no belt changes. If the motor is changed to an inverter type, then one can use a 2.5-2.7" motor pulley and run the motor to 120Hz, which is what I do.
> 
> View attachment 244720



That is excellent information.  I do not use a VFD so require full use of both speed ranges.  I just put the 27" Gates belt on and it fits fine.  In low range there is a 1" gap between motor and headstock and in high range there is 1/2" gap between the motor pulley and cover.  I did notice that the fan end of the motor is 1/4" lower than the output end on my unit so the pulleys will never be aligned.  There is no motor mount alignment feature, pretty sad.  I adjusted the motor pulley to split misalignment difference between the two.  All I can do is shim between the motor feet and the bracket and I'm not ready to go there yet.  Other than that, life is good.


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## INTJ

Mike,

I am a complete lathe newbie wannabe have just started researching lathes.  This thread has been gold!  Your information is excellent and I, like many others here, have decided on a 1340GT three phase and I will set it up like yours.  Thanks for posting!!

I have never even used a lathe or a mill, but my return to long range benchrest shooting has firmly convinced me I need both.  Just about everything involving LR BR is one off or custom.  After making a COL case and polishing a sizing die in a drill press, I decided it was time.  Also I have always wanted to do my own chambering work anyway instead of waiting 6–12 months for a gunsmith to get to it.  

I realize there is a significant learning curve to go from zero to making BR quality chambers, but step one is getting a lathe, which I expect to do in the next couple of months.

Thanks again for this thread!


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## zmotorsports

INTJ said:


> Mike,
> 
> I am a complete lathe newbie wannabe have just started researching lathes.  This thread has been gold!  Your information is excellent and I, like many others here, have decided on a 1340GT three phase and I will set it up like yours.  Thanks for posting!!
> 
> I have never even used a lathe or a mill, but my return to long range benchrest shooting has firmly convinced me I need both.  Just about everything involving LR BR is one off or custom.  After making a COL case and polishing a sizing die in a drill press, I decided it was time.  Also I have always wanted to do my own chambering work anyway instead of waiting 6–12 months for a gunsmith to get to it.
> 
> I realize there is a significant learning curve to go from zero to making BR quality chambers, but step one is getting a lathe, which I expect to do in the next couple of months.
> 
> Thanks again for this thread!



Glad to hear.  It's nice to hear that this thread has been helpful in your decision.

Mike


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