# New Model Grizzly G0750G Gunsmith Lathe



## tripletap3

I just received the new 2013 Grizzly catalog and noticed a new lathe model that quietly snuck in. Its a 12x36 gunsmith lathe looks alot like the PM1236 with the enclosed gearbox. $3,395. plus $255 shipping. No foot break though. Anyone else catch this?


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## GaryK

tripletap3 said:


> I just received the new 2013 Grizzly catalog and noticed a new lathe model that quietly snuck in. Its a 12x36 gunsmith lathe looks alot like the PM1236 with the enclosed gearbox. $3,395. plus $255 shipping. No foot break though. Anyone else catch this?



Yes, I saw it. No foot brake or coolant system, D1-5 Spindle, and other small differences, but basically the same machine.


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## darkzero

That looks nice! There's quite a few differences, more variations than similarities to the PM1236. Wonder why they choose to come out with this one, it's not much different than the G4003G but I do like it better.


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## epanzella

darkzero said:


> That looks nice! There's quite a few differences, more variations than similarities to the PM1236. Wonder why they choose to come out with this one, it's not much different than the G4003G but I do like it better.


I just ordered a G4003G. I looked at the G0750G and liked that it's lowest speed was 60 vs 70 rpm for the 4003. I didn't like that the range of threads in the new transmission was not listed anywhere and the product manual is not yet available. I emailed Grizzly and got no answer there either. Being as everyone with a G4003G is happy as a fly in a septic tank I decided to play it safe and go for that one.


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## tripletap3

I wouldn't sweat the low speed settings. From everything I have seen the speeds listed on Asian lathes are only a guesstimate anyway. Anyone who has checked them seem to find that they vary at least 10 rpm higher from the chart at the lowest settings. I would say that would be variable due to how old the machine is and what type of oil is in the lathe ect. I assume you bought the G4003G for gunsmithing work.  Almost all of what I do on my lathe is gunsmithing work and a good part of that is threading up to a shoulder. I have found that over 100rpm is way to fast to handle when doing a 1/2" of thread up to a shoulder because it finishes way too fast for me. At 65rpm it is much easier to handle but the finish is not as nice as with the 100rpm setting.


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## epanzella

I did a lot of threading with my old 11 inch Logan a long time ago. I always crept along in the lowest speed on backgear to give me control and avoid my old tired flatbelt from slipping. The threads were never that smooth but a few minutes with a wire wheel smoothed them up so they worked just fine. It never occurred to me at the time that I was going too slow. Even if I wanted to go faster the flat belt wouldn't like it.


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## epanzella

Got my Grizzly catalog today and the threading range of the Go70G is not in there either. I also noticed the G4003G is 138 pounds heavier than the new G0750G.


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## 7HC

epanzella said:


> I just ordered a G4003G. I looked at the G0750G and liked that it's lowest speed was 60 vs 70 rpm for the 4003. I didn't like that the range of threads in the new transmission was not listed anywhere and the product manual is not yet available. I emailed Grizzly and got no answer there either. Being as everyone with a G4003G is happy as a fly in a septic tank I decided to play it safe and go for that one.



I hope those of you spending multiple thousands of dollars are remembering to use the 5% coupon on the back of your 2013 catalog?  )............ anic:  
　
M


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## BobinWa

I have two friends who are quite happy with their G4003's, both are planning to chamber gun barrels. You may have to tweek it a little thats normal. Good luck and have fun.


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## tripletap3

7HC said:


> I hope those of you spending multiple thousands of dollars are remembering to use the 5% coupon on the back of your 2013 catalog? )............ anic:
> 
> M



My 2013 catalog doesn't have one. Guess I am not that good of a Grizzly customer.


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## epanzella

My catalog had a loose coupon in it but the discount didn't apply to "machinery purchases". BTW, got an email from Grizzly, my lathe shipped and should be here by close of business tomorrow!!!


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## 7HC

epanzella said:


> My catalog had a loose coupon in it but the discount didn't apply to "machinery purchases". BTW, got an email from Grizzly, my lathe shipped and should be here by close of business tomorrow!!!





tripletap3 said:


> My 2013 catalog doesn't have one. Guess I am not that good of a Grizzly customer.


It's printed on the outside of the back cover and can be used for your entire order, including machinery!   )
　
M


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## 7HC

epanzella said:


> I just ordered a G4003G. I looked at the G0750G and liked that it's lowest speed was 60 vs 70 rpm for the 4003. I didn't like that the range of threads in the new transmission was not listed anywhere and the product manual is not yet available. I emailed Grizzly and got no answer there either. Being as everyone with a G4003G is happy as a fly in a septic tank I decided to play it safe and go for that one.


That information is on the Grizzly site if you look.            First is the G0750G, next is the G4003G.              M


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## epanzella

7HC said:


> That information is on the Grizzly site if you look.            First is the G0750G, next is the G4003G.              M
> View attachment 51852
> View attachment 51853


Thanks for the info on the threading ranges. I was afraid the enclosed gearbox might have a smaller thread range. The G750G only goes to 56tpi but the G4003g goes to over 100tpi. (112 I think) Where the heck did you find that, I spent hours on the Grizzly site looking for that info. I guess I just missed it. I'm looking at my 2013 catalog right now and there's no coupon or deal or anything like that on the back cover.  There just a bunch of small tools like palm sanders  that are on sale for president's day.  Anyhoo, thanks much for the info I'm glad I made the right choice (for me) with the G4003G   Ed P


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## 7HC

epanzella said:


> Thanks for the info on the threading ranges. I was afraid the enclosed gearbox might have a smaller thread range. The G750G only goes to 56tpi but the G4003g goes to over 100tpi. (112 I think) Where the heck did you find that, I spent hours on the Grizzly site looking for that info. I guess I just missed it. I'm looking at my 2013 catalog right now and there's no coupon or deal or anything like that on the back cover.  There just a bunch of small tools like palm sanders  that are on sale for president's day.  Anyhoo, thanks much for the info I'm glad I made the right choice (for me) with the G4003G   Ed P





	

		
			
		

		
	
    The threading information is in the PDF spec sheet, under the pic of the machine on the site.  My 5% coupon is shown in the pic, but don't copy the code as it's already been used when I ordered a G0755 Mill (should arrive in July).


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## epanzella

7HC said:


> View attachment 51857
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The threading information is in the PDF spec sheet, under the pic of the machine on the site.  My 5% coupon is shown in the pic, but don't copy the code as it's already been used when I ordered a G0755 Mill (should arrive in July).


You must be a VIP, my catalog doesn't have that. Best of luck with your G0755. The trucker just dropped of my G4003G in the garage about a half hour ago. I'm jonesin to open the crate but I can't until I build a ramp and wheel it up about 10 inches to get into my workshop. I cut a pair of 2x10's so they fit thru the door and attached heavy duty casters on all four ends. Next I'll attach them to the crate so I can roll it.  Ed P


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## 7HC

epanzella said:


> You must be a VIP, my catalog doesn't have that. Best of luck with your G0755. The trucker just dropped of my G4003G in the garage about a half hour ago. I'm jonesin to open the crate but I can't until I build a ramp and wheel it up about 10 inches to get into my workshop. I cut a pair of 2x10's so they fit thru the door and attached heavy duty casters on all four ends. Next I'll attach them to the crate so I can roll it.  Ed P



VIP...lol )

 Don't forget to post plenty of pics of the crates being opened and the assembly of the lathe (very nice, I'm jealous).

M


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## epanzella

7HC said:


> VIP...lol )
> 
> Don't forget to post plenty of pics of the crates being opened and the assembly of the lathe (very nice, I'm jealous).
> 
> M


 
I just looked your G0755 milling machine! You're jealous??? I'm jealous! I wish you were my neighbor!


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## epanzella

7HC said:


> VIP...lol )
> 
> Don't forget to post plenty of pics of the crates being opened and the assembly of the lathe (very nice, I'm jealous).
> 
> M


The 2x10's with the caster worked out great. Once I jacked the crate up and got the pallet out I bolted them on and I could move the rig around with one  hand.


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## Ray C

... It's amazing how much work it is just to uncrate and setup a lathe!


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## 7HC

epanzella said:


> The 2x10's with the caster worked out great. Once I jacked the crate up and got the pallet out I bolted them on and I could move the rig around with one  hand.


Good job, and it must have been a buzz to see it in there as you pulled the crate apart. Now for the pics of how you lift it up onto its stand please! )
M


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## darkzero

Congrats on the new lathe! I still remember that great feeling the day mine arrived!


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## epanzella

7HC said:


> Good job, and it must have been a buzz to see it in there as you pulled the crate apart. Now for the pics of how you lift it up onto its stand please! )
> M


A buzz indeed. The manual says to bolt down the base and then put the lathe on top but I can't do that. The only way I can pick up the machine is with a chain hoist on a main carrying beam. I'll have to lift the lathe and then slide the base under it. I gotta check my levels and see how sensitive they are. I hate to spend a hundred bux for a one shot deal on a machinist level when I still need four or five hundred bux of tooling just to get started. When I sold my old Logan I gave the guy  a milling attachment, collet set with closer, boring bars, end mills, ect. What a dope! I had no idea how expensive this stuff is. Ed P


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## CharlyArmy

I would be really interested in hearing what you have to say about the lathe after you get it set up. I am thinking of buying one myself and have been putting it off until I get some room in the garage/shop cleared out.


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## epanzella

CharlyArmy said:


> I would be really interested in hearing what you have to say about the lathe after you get it set up. I am thinking of buying one myself and have been putting it off until I get some room in the garage/shop cleared out.


 It'll be a while before I'm making chips but the machine looks to be a real bargain for the money. My only complaint so far are the bolt holes in the bases. They're tucked away in recesses under the footprint of the machine. You can't drill the holes with the machine in place, you have to drill them first and lower the machine on to the bolts. This doesn't make any sense to me and I can't do it anyway. I ended up welding pieces of angle iron to the bases that stick out in the four corners of each base. This widens the base support substantially and gives me places to put eight leveling pads that have three inch diameter rubber feet.  I'll just support the machine on the rubber feet and not bolt it down at all. I ordered one of those super duper levels that is accurate to .0005 in 10 inches. The rubber mounts have about two inches of adjustment so it should be easy to level the machine and keep it level.  Jonesin', jonesin', jonesin'


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## Dog

epanzella said:


> It'll be a while before I'm making chips but the machine looks to be a real bargain for the money. My only complaint so far are the bolt holes in the bases. They're tucked away in recesses under the footprint of the machine. You can't drill the holes with the machine in place, you have to drill them first and lower the machine on to the bolts. This doesn't make any sense to me and I can't do it anyway. I ended up welding pieces of angle iron to the bases that stick out in the four corners of each base. This widens the base support substantially and gives me places to put eight leveling pads that have three inch diameter rubber feet.  I'll just support the machine on the rubber feet and not bolt it down at all. I ordered one of those super duper levels that is accurate to .0005 in 10 inches. The rubber mounts have about two inches of adjustment so it should be easy to level the machine and keep it level.  Jonesin', jonesin', jonesin'



The only problem with putting feet on this lathe is it is tall already, when you add an extra couple of inches it is too tall. I am 6' and I wish this lathe was a couple of inches shorter. I, like you, put some struts under it with leveling bolts out to the side. I tried to keep it as low a set up as possible but still added about an inch to the height.


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## epanzella

Dog said:


> The only problem with putting feet on this lathe is it is tall already, when you add an extra couple of inches it is too tall. I am 6' and I wish this lathe was a couple of inches shorter. I, like you, put some struts under it with leveling bolts out to the side. I tried to keep it as low a set up as possible but still added about an inch to the height.


When I had had my last machine I built an antifatigue mat out of wood strips screwed down onto some runners. It really reduced my back and foot problems at the end of long days and as it was so porous, I could just pick it up to sweep chips as they would fall right thru it. I'll wait until my machine is all setup and if I need more height, when I make my mat I'll make the runners thicker. Thanks for the heads-up. Ed P


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## CharlyArmy

A comment and a question. I personally like the machine alittle higher, I usually end up raising my workbenches and machines. Raised my mill by 6 inches and my reloading and work bench by 4 inches.

Question is, what do you thing of the quality of your gunsmith lathe?


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## Dog

CharlyArmy said:


> A comment and a question. I personally like the machine alittle higher, I usually end up raising my workbenches and machines. Raised my mill by 6 inches and my reloading and work bench by 4 inches.
> 
> Question is, what do you thing of the quality of your gunsmith lathe?




Well, it is a chinese lathe... it needed a lot of sorting out as they often do. The really important things were good to go... The spindle has almost zero measurable runout, and a test bar cut on the lathe showed less than .0002 difference in 6". Now that I have most of the little stuff sorted out it seems to be a pretty good lathe. For the cost I suppose you expect that sort of thing, but it is still quite irritating. 

I'm not sure why grizzly makes this lathe so tall. I don't mind a lathe to be a little taller as well, but I don't like having to constantly look around the tool holder block. I would prefer to look down on top of the work slightly. I may end up cutting a couple of inches off the bottom of the stand when I get some time and feel ambitious.


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## Dog

To be fair I should say that my shop floor is slanted toward the front doors. (and I stand on the downhill side of the lathe) That does compound the height situation a little bit, but it still would be nice a couple of inches shorter. It's a lot easier to go up in height with a machine using feet or whatever than it is to go down. (which involves cutting etc) Here is another guy that thought it was too tall too... http://bedair.org/Grizzly12x/GrizzlyG4003G2.html


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## epanzella

Got the machine mounted on the base today. I didn't like the mounting holes under the machine so I welded on some extensions and drilled them for heavy machinery leveling pads. Hoisted the lathe up and slid the base under. Picking the machine up and bolting to the base took about an hour thanks to my son coming over to help    . .            ...............................................................


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## qualitymachinetools

That stand/base does not look like its cast iron, did they change it recently?


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## darkzero

qualitymachinetools said:


> That stand/base does not look like its cast iron, did they change it recently?



Good eye Matt, I didn't even notice that. You're right, it doesn't look like the same cast iron stand(s) they used to offer with it. Their spec sheet still says the stand is cast iron.

http://bedair.org/Grizzly12x/GrizzlyG4003G2.html


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## qualitymachinetools

Hmm thats strange, wonder why? I have been trying to do a cast base option on the PM-1236 and have not had much luck.


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## kd4gij

Thase stands look like thay used 2 G0704 stands.


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## 7HC

kd4gij said:


> Thase stands look like thay used 2 G0704 stands.



Except that the one on the left of the pic appears wider than the one on the right. )                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   M


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## Gr8fullAmerican

Just ordered my g0750g yesterday. Thanks for the pics, I now know exactly how I'm going to maneuver my lathe into place. Question on the base mounting holes- are they through drilled into the cabinet so that the nut is installed through the cabinet door, or is there a gap between the base bottom and the cabinet bottom surface? Another question I have is that my space is limited in that I need to place the lathe fairly close to the wall.  Given this, would it be more prudent to use mounting pads instead of bolting it down? What is the likelyhood that I will need access to the back after its installed?
Matt, I looked very hard at the PM1236 but in the end my Grizzly loyalty won out(lived in Bellingham WA and been buying Grizzly for 20+years). However Grizzly does not offer a foot brake for any 12x36 models. Would you consider selling a "brake kit"?


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## epanzella

Gr8fullAmerican said:


> Just ordered my g0750g yesterday. Thanks for the pics, I now know exactly how I'm going to maneuver my lathe into place. Question on the base mounting holes- are they through drilled into the cabinet so that the nut is installed through the cabinet door, or is there a gap between the base bottom and the cabinet bottom surface? Another question I have is that my space is limited in that I need to place the lathe fairly close to the wall.  Given this, would it be more prudent to use mounting pads instead of bolting it down? What is the likelyhood that I will need access to the back after its installed?
> Matt, I looked very hard at the PM1236 but in the end my Grizzly loyalty won out(lived in Bellingham WA and been buying Grizzly for 20+years). However Grizzly does not offer a foot brake for any 12x36 models. Would you consider selling a "brake kit"?


The holes on my G4003G don't go into the cabinet and there's no room for a drill so to bolt it down you would have to predrill to install the anchors then put the lathe on top. I picked mine up from a beam so I couldn't move it sideways. That's why I welded the extensions onto the base to increase the footprint and get the holes in the clear. I used eight rubber bottomed leveling feet. When I set the machine up a week ago it was dead nuts level  but it was .005 off this morning when I checked it. A few experienced guys recommended I bolt it down and they may be right. I'm going to level it once more and see if it stays. If not I'll bolt it. The cabinet bases seem to be made of 1/4 to 3/8 inch cast iron and each piece weighs about 150 lbs. The owners manual say 60 inches from the front of the chip pan to the wall. Seems a bit excessive to me. You need enough room to get into the electrical panel and to adjust the motor for belt tension. The headstock base is wider than the tailstock base. I think I covered all your ?.
Ed P
PS
The instructions say to lift the lathe with 2 straps going inside the leadscrews and wrapping around the outside of the base. Running the lift strap like that will put substantial machine weight onto the ON-OFF-REV motor switch located under th QC transmission. I read a few posts complaining of this switch going bad in a short time so this may be the reason. Anyhoo, I used a 2500LB single strap on the CG and had no problems. The CG is right at the nose of the chuck as shown in my pics. You can fine tune it by moving the carriage. Good luck.


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## Gr8fullAmerican

Thanks Ed that help.  I was just about to order the leveling pads but I think I will just go ahead and use concrete anchors and bolt it.  I had planned on putting it against a wall but have decided to put it between the bays in 3 car garage so I will have access to all sides.  I have read on other forums that things can shift for a while. I'm obviously no expert but maybe re-level and give it a bit more time?  Maybe it will settle in?
Thanks, Scott



epanzella said:


> The holes on my G4003G don't go into the cabinet and there's no room for a drill so to bolt it down you would have to predrill to install the anchors then put the lathe on top. I picked mine up from a beam so I couldn't move it sideways. That's why I welded the extensions onto the base to increase the footprint and get the holes in the clear. I used eight rubber bottomed leveling feet. When I set the machine up a week ago it was dead nuts level  but it was .005 off this morning when I checked it. A few experienced guys recommended I bolt it down and they may be right. I'm going to level it once more and see if it stays. If not I'll bolt it. The cabinet bases seem to be made of 1/4 to 3/8 inch cast iron and each piece weighs about 150 lbs. The owners manual say 60 inches from the front of the chip pan to the wall. Seems a bit excessive to me. You need enough room to get into the electrical panel and to adjust the motor for belt tension. The headstock base is wider than the tailstock base. I think I covered all your ?.
> Ed P
> PS
> The instructions say to lift the lathe with 2 straps going inside the leadscrews and wrapping around the outside of the base. Running the lift strap like that will put substantial machine weight onto the ON-OFF-REV motor switch located under th QC transmission. I read a few posts complaining of this switch going bad in a short time so this may be the reason. Anyhoo, I used a 2500LB single strap on the CG and had no problems. The CG is right at the nose of the chuck as shown in my pics. You can fine tune it by moving the carriage. Good luck.


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## tripletap3

Gr8fullAmerican said:


> However Grizzly does not offer a foot brake for any 12x36 models. Would you consider selling a "brake kit"?



The foot brake was one of the big advantages of the PM1236.  I don't use it as often as I first thought I would BUT when I do it is worth it's wait in gold. I would think it would be very hard and or expensive to retrofit a machine that wasn't originally offered with a brake. It is actually quite a bit more than just a switch and a foot pedal. There is a set of automotive style brake shoes under the pulley/brake drum assembly that stops the spindle instantly.  There is also more electrical components involved otherwise the spindle would restart when you released the foot pedal.


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## Gr8fullAmerican

i agree with you. The foot brake almost swayed me from the g0750g to he PM1236, but in the end I just have too much loyalty to Grizzly.  Their showroom was 2 minutes from my house and I knew alot of people that worked there.  I have been looking at it and i believe that the brake trips a limit switch that may be wired in with the forward/reverse/off switch on the carriage.  If I can get the wiring figured out I might be able to squeeze some sort of disc brake in there, possibly on the motor pulley?  But right now its just an idea.  I have heard good things about Matt and having been a business man for 20+ years i am always thinking in terms of new product ideas.  It's probably not a new idea but I would think there may be quite a few people with 12x36 and 13x40's that dont have foot brakes and a kit might be a good revenue stream.  I am always hearing that the machines are all "basically the same", "made in the same plant", "rebadged", etc..  I know there are differences in the internals on some of the machines but there may be enough simillarity between them for a brake? Just a thought.



tripletap3 said:


> The foot brake was one of the big advantages of the PM1236. I don't use it as often as I first thought I would BUT when I do it is worth it's wait in gold. I would think it would be very hard and or expensive to retrofit a machine that wasn't originally offered with a brake. It is actually quite a bit more than just a switch and a foot pedal. There is a set of automotive style brake shoes under the pulley/brake drum assembly that stops the spindle instantly. There is also more electrical components involved otherwise the spindle would restart when you released the foot pedal.


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## qualitymachinetools

No problem at all, good luck with the machine!

    No, I have tried to retrofit a foot brake on machines before, and while not too hard, it was not just a bolt in setup.

   Mainly on the pulley up on top, the brake pedal is easy enough, but like mentioned before, there are too many parts to mess with on the upper pulley. 
  And, the machine is not made in the same factory or even anywhere close to Grizzly's, so the parts would be different. The factory who makes our PM-1236 is completely different. 

 It can be made to work, but not sure the best way to come up with to retrofit that on there. If it was me, I would change the motor to 3 phase, put a VFD on with a braking resistor, and just make a foot brake pedal with a switch on it. I know its not exactly the same, but they still can stop really fast. I love VFD's, best thing ever invented!


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## Gr8fullAmerican

Thanks for the reply,
That may be a very good idea down the road. The VFD would give me braking and lower speeds for threading. Thanks Matt



qualitymachinetools said:


> No problem at all, good luck with the machine!
> 
> No, I have tried to retrofit a foot brake on machines before, and while not too hard, it was not just a bolt in setup.
> 
> Mainly on the pulley up on top, the brake pedal is easy enough, but like mentioned before, there are too many parts to mess with on the upper pulley.
> And, the machine is not made in the same factory or even anywhere close to Grizzly's, so the parts would be different. The factory who makes our PM-1236 is completely different.
> 
> It can be made to work, but not sure the best way to come up with to retrofit that on there. If it was me, I would change the motor to 3 phase, put a VFD on with a braking resistor, and just make a foot brake pedal with a switch on it. I know its not exactly the same, but they still can stop really fast. I love VFD's, best thing ever invented!


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