# Simple tilt table



## pineyfolks

I saw this simple tilt table on YouTube. It's one of the latest videos from oxtoolco, Clausing Drill Press 2 . Thought I would share it with you all as it's a very easy build. Forward to 27:54 to view the table. If any wants to post the direct link please do as I don't know how to.


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## tigtorch

Here you go:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-26NzgrkW0Q

It is very easy to post a link, just select the address of the link you want to post in your browser (click in the area that starts with "http://......." or "www....." and make sure the whole thing is selected, i.e. shaded darker) and copy (press Ctrl and C at the same time) and then in your forum posting just paste (press Ctrl and V at the same time).  There is probably an even easier way to do it but that's what I do.


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## davidh

very nice little gadget. . . something else I shouldn't have to live without


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## stupoty

Thats a nice simple set up, very interesting, thanks

Stuart


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## Sharky

Great idea! cheap and easy, but I bet it works great!


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## ML_Woy

Great looking table, now after making the  table it is on to making all of those little tie down attachments he had in that he had to hold the seperator jaws he was making for the chuck spindle removal. Sure would like to see how he make those. I think that is a bigger project than making the table.


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## Ray C

Thanks for passing that along and also to the one who put up the link.  I'm going to build one of those plates.  I have a good piece of metal for it.

Ray



pineyfolks said:


> I saw this simple tilt table on YouTube. It's one of the latest videos from oxtoolco, Clausing Drill Press 2 . Thought I would share it with you all as it's a very easy build. Forward to 27:54 to view the table. If any wants to post the direct link please do as I don't know how to.


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## pineyfolks

Ray, I noticed the tilt table in the video didn't seem to go all the way to a 90. This is how I built mine, Since my vise jaws are 2" tall I chose 3" round stock. I milled a 1" deep pocket in from the side to the center of the stock. My plate is 6 x 9 and I bolted it to the milled pocket. This lets the plate tilt all the way to a 90 and since my jaws are taller than half the dia. of the stock it clamps solid in any position. I'll get some pics when I get my camera working again.


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## stevecmo

Bill,

Thanks for posting the link.  I think it is a great idea and put it on my (long) list.  

Another option for the top plate would be a t-slot table.  LMS has one that I've had my eye on for awhile for another project.  This may be the reason I've been looking for to order one.

Link: http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1664&category=

It would probably require adding holes in one of the t-slots to bolt the round stock to, and in my case  I would have to make some 7/16" t-nuts.  

Steve


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## Hawkeye

I was planning to make something like that. You can do compound angles by raising one end and clamping the round bar in your vise with both an X-axis rise and a Y-axis rise.


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## itsme_Bernie

pineyfolks said:


> Ray, I noticed the tilt table in the video didn't seem to go all the way to a 90. This is how I built mine, Since my vise jaws are 2" tall I chose 3" round stock. I milled a 1" deep pocket in from the side to the center of the stock. My plate is 6 x 9 and I bolted it to the milled pocket. This lets the plate tilt all the way to a 90 and since my jaws are taller than half the dia. of the stock it clamps solid in any position. I'll get some pics when I get my camera working again.



Yes yes!  Pics, pics!  . 

...  Then I'll make yours!  


Bernie


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## Rick Leslie

That's a really neat idea. Very simple, but it looks rigid enough, especially with the jack screws. Yet another tool on the 'must build' list.


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## pineyfolks

Here's a sketch to show how I notched the round stock on mine and attached the plate. No pics yet my camera is driving me nuts. This might give you the general idea until I get it working


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## itsme_Bernie

Gotcha!  

Thanks man!


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## ML_Woy

pineyfolks said:


> Here's a sketch to show how I notched the round stock on mine and attached the plate. No pics yet my camera is driving me nuts. This might give you the general idea until I get it working


Always a better way to do something when you get a lot of heads together. This is the way to go! Thanks for the drawing, I was having trouble understanding what you had done as well.

M.L. Woy


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## jmhoying

Looks like a great project.  I found a 7" long piece of 3" stock tonight and started the true-up process.  I'll look for a plate at a scrap yard visit next week.

Jack


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## jmhoying

I turned the shaft and milled the notch out this morning. The shaft dressed down to about 2.625.




Jack


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## pineyfolks

Nice work Jack, I made my shaft short enough to be able to turn it 90 degrees in my vise and use it if I had to. Your Kurt probably opens 6 in. anyway.  I'm also tapping the edges for work stops. Pics to follow.................................


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## Ray C

Nice work...  I'm really looking forward to making one myself.  Such a nice idea and it will last a lifetime.  I was thinking of putting some swivel screw mechanisms so it could be precisely positioned and held fimly to hold-up under milling pressures...  I have some ideas in mind...  Y'a gotta love stuff like this...

Ray


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## Harvey Melvin Richards

Ray C said:


> Nice work...  I'm really looking forward to making one myself.  Such a nice idea and it will last a lifetime.  I was thinking of putting some swivel screw mechanisms so it could be precisely positioned and held fimly to hold-up under milling pressures...  I have some ideas in mind...  Y'a gotta love stuff like this...
> 
> Ray



I'd be interested in seeing what you have in mind. I have been putting together some parts for one that I'm going to build. I have been planning to add another round bar, so that it would be jacked up like a sine plate, although the sine coefficients would be irrelevant.


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## pineyfolks

Here's my pics.  I still have to tap the edges for some stops and a few other things. I did make some clamps.


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## LJP

Nice work on that plate!! I guess I need one.


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## Rick Leslie

Thank you for the pics Pineyfolks. I tend to think in one plane at the time. Duh! I needed the push, now I have a better idea of the size, shape and such...


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## Harvey Melvin Richards

Nice work Bill. I'm still working some ideas for mine. It would seem that a jacking screw or an addition end bar (like a sine bar) would help in adjusting the plate to get it right on the money.


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## jmhoying

I have my tilt table pretty much finished up.  I'm thinking of making support arms for it, but it was very solid in my test tonight.  My table is 11" x 9" x 1" aluminum, with a 2.625" diameter mount.  I drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes at 1.5" on center.  Tonight, I made 4 hold downs from 1" x .375 x 3" cold rolled.  A friend gave me a set of 8 tiny step blocks, which will be perfect for the hold downs on this table.
 The only thing I have to make for sure are some thicker washers for the hold downs, as the fender washers distorted on the first use.
  I recently purchased a AngleCube and I think it'll be great for the tilt table.  I'm not saying it's better than a sine plate, but I think it'll get the plate within 1/2 degree or less.


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## Harvey Melvin Richards

I mostly finished mine today. Like most projects, there is always something to change or add. My plate is 3/4" aluminum, 6" x 8.5", tapped 1/4-20 holes 1.25" OC and 0.2505" reamed holes, also 1.25" OC, offset from the other holes. The large roll is 2.725" in diameter. I also added an additional adjustment roll. It is movable in 1.25" increments.


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## pineyfolks

Harvey Melvin Richards said:


> I mostly finished mine today. Like most projects, there is always something to change or add. My plate is 3/4" aluminum, 6" x 8.5", tapped 1/4-20 holes 1.25" OC and 0.2505" reamed holes, also 1.25" OC, offset from the other holes. The large roll is 2.725" in diameter. I also added an additional adjustment roll. It is movable in 1.25" increments.


I like that idea. And that is a really nice jack. I like the fine adjustment and the V to fit the shaft.  I may have to build one now.


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## SE18

great idea and great execution & thanks for the closeup photos!


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## randyjaco

Here is my take on the tilt table. When I saw it I knew it was a great idea, but it took up too much real estate on the mill. I thought that the T-slots would make a better location, so I made one 6”x 7” x ½” that could work either from the T-slot or the vise. I am using a machinist jack as a support , but still working a way to secure the distal end.

Randy


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## Chucketn

Don't you just love it when a great idea just keeps evolving! Keep 'em comming guys!

Chuck


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## Harvey Melvin Richards

randyjaco said:


> Here is my take on the tilt table. When I saw it I knew it was a great idea, but it took up too much real estate on the mill. I thought that the T-slots would make a better location, so I made one 6”x 7” x ½” that could work either from the T-slot or the vise. I am using a machinist jack as a support , but still working a way to secure the distal end.
> 
> Randy



I forgot that I have some Mitee-Bites, so I'll have to add some holes to mine. I like the T-slot idea, that has a lot of potential.


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## btm

Nice work on the tilt tables.
I've been thinking about making one of these for a long time, but keep putting it off due to more important projects. Seeing these photos makes me want to dig out some scrap pieces and get started.

btm


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## Harvey Melvin Richards

I liked randyjaco's t-slot clamp idea, so I came up with my own version.


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## itsme_Bernie

Man, I better get on this!  What a popular project!  



Bernie


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## pineyfolks

They all look great, I like the idea of clamping to the table. As  soon as I come up with a long piece of plate I'm going to make one for my little horizontal mill the whole length and width of the table,  5 X 20 should do it.


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## DaRiddler

) I'm late to the party, but I do plan to make this simple and straightforward tilt table (I'll try to remember to take pictures).  And when I do, I'm going to make two of the cylindrical parts.  One will be made and used like those in the pictures posted in this thread, which is a notched but otherwise round piece that one clamps in the vise.

On the other part I'll go a bit further . . . once I've made it and bolted it to the tilt table itself, I'll get whatever is my most accurate angle-setter I have (a sine plate, in my case).  I'll set the latter at, say, 30 degrees, clamp the simple tilt table to it, and mill a flat on the cylindrical part of the latter.  Similarly for 45 degrees, 60 degrees, and whatever other commonly-used angles one wants.  That way when I use the simple tilt table for common angles, I won't even have to use any other item to set it.

I assume that if one uses aluminum for the cylinder, it will eventually develop flats on the common angles anyway.  Might as well mill 'em there to begin with.  I'll use the other un-flatted cylinder for weird angles.

Caveat: this idea admittedly won't work as well if you're clamping the tilt table by the ends in your vise or if you're using it on the bare mill table.

DaRiddler


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## easymike29

Harvey Melvin Richards said:


> ..... I have been planning to add another round bar, so that it would be jacked up like a sine plate, although the sine coefficients would be irrelevant.



A spread sheet with appropriate calculations would make it relevant.

Gene


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## Walltoddj

easymike29 said:


> A spread sheet with appropriate calculations would make it relevant.
> 
> Gene



I downloaded a spreadsheet with Inch and Metric spacers for 0-90 deg. If you have a different size bar spacing let me know it simple to change for your size.

Todd


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## Marco Bernardini

*Guys, you made my day with this table!*
I have to miter some aluminum profiles, 5×20 mm, to fit the plastic with the square hole I illustrated in this post: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=22609
This morning I spent a lot of time to get the first corner using an HSS slitting saw.
The result was acceptable, but the setup was really time consuming:




Don't forget I've only the cheapest Chinese drill press… but the homemade XY table and the screw powered feed I added helped a bit.
Tomorrow I'll arrange this tilt table (luckily today I got a nice scrap of iron plate from the harbor stevedores) and I'll make my own version, to be used with a 6 mm end mill with a feed of 0.01 mm or so.
Of course my table will not be so fancy as your tables!


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## SEK_22Hornet

Harvey Melvin Richards said:


> I forgot that I have some Mitee-Bites, so I'll have to add some holes to mine. I like the T-slot idea, that has a lot of potential.



Another option might be to use a table that already has T slots cut in it - LMS has a 9.5 x 4.25 cast iron table with three 12mm (7/16) T slots running the length of it for less that $30. Since I don't have any suitable scrap to use for this project, I'm thinking about using one a a starting point. 

Just go to their website and search for table and you can find it easily.


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## velofelo

This is a great idea simple, but works, i must build one thanks.


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## itsme_Bernie

SEK_22Hornet said:


> Another option might be to use a table that already has T slots cut in it - LMS has a 9.5 x 4.25 cast iron table with three 12mm (7/16) T slots running the length of it for less that $30. Since I don't have any suitable scrap to use for this project, I'm thinking about using one a a starting point.
> 
> Just go to their website and search for table and you can find it easily.



That's a good idea.  I have one of those tables from LMS.  I can't remember what I paid for it years ago at Cabin Fever, but somewhere between $30 and $60.  WORTH IT!  It's good for a lot.



Bernie


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## Marco Bernardini

itsme_Bernie said:


> That's a good idea.  I have one of those tables from LMS.  I can't remember what I paid for it years ago at Cabin Fever, but somewhere between $30 and $60.  WORTH IT!  It's good for a lot.
> Bernie



$27.95 web price, more or less the price of a same size aluminum blank, here… plus $65.30 shipping to Italy 
If someone is planning a trip to NW Italy/SE France… please PM me 

The dimensions for that table are here: http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/drawings/1664MillTable.pdf.
IMHO the support for a 4"/6" vise can be placed on both short and long sides (not at the same time, of course!), to have the greatest flexibility. Also, the long side allows you to have the support in the center (better) or asymmetrical, for difficult setups.
If LMS guys are reading this I suggest them to add this gizmo as "optional", for who don't want to machine the stock.


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## lwhaples

LMS? Interesting read,lots of good ideas


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## kizmit99

I finally got around to building one of these tilt tables.  



I blatantly stole all the great ideas I could from this thread 
I added a second  bar to the bottom of the plate so that it can be easily positioned perfectly flat on the vise.



Used a short pivot round so that it can be rotated in the vise:



And stole Randy and Harvey's T-slot mount idea:



Thanks for the great ideas guys!


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## ezduzit

Nice, I want one.


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## accokeek

Ray C said:


> Nice work...  I'm really looking forward to making one myself.  Such a nice idea and it will last a lifetime.  I was thinking of putting some swivel screw mechanisms so it could be precisely positioned and held fimly to hold-up under milling pressures...  I have some ideas in mind...  Y'a gotta love stuff like this...
> 
> Ray


Ray

Any further thoughts or progress on this project?  Making a list of stuff I need to do for/with my incoming mill and this looks like it should be high on the list

Thanks

Paul


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## BigWeld

That looks really handy, definitely something to add to my "rountouit" list.
Thanks for sharing.

Paul


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## T Bredehoft

It can be made to be a sine plate.  if the round clamping bar is 2 3/4 diameter, the plate is 1" thick, a 3/8 bar mounted six inches from the center of the clamping bar and that (the clamping bar) is located so that the plate is horizontal and the clamping bar can pivot around it's center, it can be used as a sine plate, putting a stack of joe blocks under the 3/8 bar. 

I'm not sure this is a good explanation, but if you're sharp enough  you can figure it out. I did.


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## kingmt01

I think I fallow but a drawing would help.


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## Rangemaster1

I would like for all of you guys who have built your angle plates to know that they are all beautiful works of art.  I only wish I had the time to build some of the things I've seen you guys do.  

Too many guns to fix or build.  No time for my own fun.  My wife keeps telling me I'm retired and I should take it easy.  I retired from working for someone else.  When you work for yourself, it hard to just quit.  One day soon, I hope.  Then I can play with my tools like you guys do.  

Keep up the nice work and know it's appreciated,

Ron


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## kingmt01

My mouth waters looking at them. One day.... Haha


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## pebbleworm

Stevecmo- thanks for the link to the T-slot table.  I've been meaning to make a t-slot cross slide for my Craftsman for a while, but the Unimat milling table I had on hand seemed too small.  Now I can sell the Unimat table and pay for this one!


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## barnett

There's a really nice build on yt from mrpragmaticlee his plate also fits his rotary table.


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## EmilioG

I'd like to make an aluminum tilt table as well, but w/o the notch on the round bar. Reason: If you mar up the flat plate, resurfacing won't touch or leave the round bar un even. I prefer the round bar underneath the end. Yes, you can't tilt it all the way up, but all I need is 55° max.
The design in the video above is cool, but I'd make the round bar under the table to sit flat in the vise, no parallels or blocks, so it can pivot easily and straight. You can indicate off of precision angle blocks, use a protractor, etc... I would use a support block or jack under the tilted table. Set screws can be used for shallow angles or support rests on the vise.


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## T Bredehoft

One addition I made, I inletted a 1/2" piece of drill rod into the underside of the plate, exactly 4 inches from the center of the round bar. Through calculation this allowed me to 1) use the plate in a true horizontal position, and 2) use Jo blocks to set angles.  for instance for 30º need a 2" Jo block.


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## neilkingent

I made one too. The thing I don't like about is the 1/4" holes clog up too easy.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





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