# Clausing 4800 / 100 Spindle Removal And Chatter Issues



## gtexan (Apr 21, 2016)

I have had a 4803 for probably about 10 years, it has it's limitations but I've always been able to figure out how to make what I needed. 
The Problems:

I've been experiencing some pretty impressive chatter when working _without _the tailstock center support. 
The bullgear on the machine was missing two teeth when I purchased it.
My anticipated solutions: 

Replace the belt. I was going to use a solid belt because I was going to replace it when the headstock was apart anyhow. 
Tighten the headstock bearings.
Replace the bullgear. (I've acquired a complete headstock with good bullgear to a clausing 100 machine that someone was parting out.)
The odd things: 

There is little or no spindle play as it stands now. I push-on the spindle and get no movement that I can detect in the axial or longitudinal directions. The chattering goes away when the axial force of the tail stock comes into play so that leads me to believe the bearings should be tighter. With the belt slacked if I give the chuck a spin by hand it spins for a long time very smoothly. 
Even though I'm at the limit of the slack take-up adjusters, the belt is tight in the high speed position and get progressively looser as moved to each of the lower speed locations. Would seem to mean the countershaft is not parallel to spindle.
Any advice on the above is appreciated but my main questions are: 

How do you recommend to get the gear on the end of the shaft off?  There is no set screw just a key way.
On the bearing nut, the set screw has led shot under it, does this get melted out or should I use a dental pick?
Since these parts aren't really available commercially any longer, would it be usefull for others if, as I disassemble & reassemble the headstock, I blueprint the parts measuring the dimensions and making drawings?  

Thanks for the help.


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## chips&more (Apr 21, 2016)

Hi and welcome, I have a Clausing 6900 series lathe. To adjust the preload/end shake the manufacture recommends (going by memory?). Mount the original faceplate and remove the drive belt(s) and anything else riding/engaged on the spindle. And then give the face plate one snappy turn. If the preload is adjusted correctly, the face plate will do about one revolution. Please note, this adjustment is for my model lathe, I’m only assuming it could be used on yours. I did this adjustment on my lathe about 30 years ago, and have had no problems since. It would be a good idea when first run testing your lathe, to check and see if the bearings are not getting too hot. An IR non-contact temp gun would be a good thing to use, feeling with your hand would work too (be careful)…Good Luck, Dave.


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## gtexan (Apr 21, 2016)

That's the description I had found as well for the snap spin then single turn, but I wasn't sure if the belt to be engaged or not, so that's good to know. 
Any pointers on removing the led shot from the nut?


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## chips&more (Apr 22, 2016)

That’s good to know that the preload check is the same on both series lathes. Sorry, not following you on the lead shot in nut question? Mine does not have any lead anywhere that I know of? If it’s lead in a threaded hole? I would take a drill bit mounted in a pin vise to get the bulk out. Then pick the rest. Maybe heat, but you must be very careful of any damage to components and or changes in metallurgy. And I guess the lead could stick after applying heat…Dave


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## wa5cab (Apr 23, 2016)

Do  not drill out the lead shot or soft brass plug.  It's purpose is to protect the threads on (usually) the spindle from damage by the nose of the set screws normally used to lock threaded collars.  If you do, there is a good chance that when you put the headstock back together, adjust the bearing preload, and then tighten the set screw(s), you will damage the threads in the spindle.  And the next time that someone needs to pull the spindle, they will probably also damage the threads in the collar.


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