# Another Newbie SB 10 Owner



## SQUARESTOCK (Jan 14, 2014)

I am definitely a newbie here and recently came across a school auction that had a couple of South Bends up for bid. Being that I have always read/heard they are decent starters for the hobbyist. I was only going by "not so good" picture of I but decided to bid on one and won the auction. It looked as it was operated for years as it was covered with a dark blackish brown film. It came with some tooling and 4 chucks, a back plate. and part of a collet thing along with the already for mentioned gunk.

The motor that it came with is a 3 phase 3/4 HP and I decided to remove it and buy a single phase to replace it. Reading here and some other forums I found that some were staying with the 3 phase motor and using a VFD to run it. This past weekend I got the ol girl cleaned up a bit(there is actually gray paint under the mess) and lubed up and running. It still had a "South Bend" branded V belt that was in bad shape so I went to Napa and bought a 5L420 to replace it.

This past Saturday I had the strong urge to make some chips so I tried treading some stainless rod. I quickly found that the gears were a bit noisy when using the gearbox so I searched here and found some good pointers on how to remedy the problem.


I wound up using a no frills Teco FM50 VFD and ran it as low as 10Hz up to 65Hz. Mostly at 60 though. I have yet to put in in a enclosure and run some remote controls  but will soon.

Thinking that this is going to be a "fix me upper" slash money pit I did get the serial # card today and it shipped in early October in 64 when I was the ripe old age of 4. Being that it was a  school machine  for most of it's life it has it's share of dings and parts of the compound and cross slide look as if it was chewed on by a beaver. It does have most everything thing needed though, thread dial, tail stock, tapper attachment. The clutch knob was missing and I already made a replacement. I look forward to learning more about the SB 10 as this place has a wealth of information. Starting out looking at getting a new flat belt along with a rebuild /felt wiper kit......... are the ones on Ebay a good deal or what?

Here are some not so great cell phone pics as my digital's SD card decided to die on me.











Assorted old school tooling.......





a "South Bend" marked Skinner 6" 4 jaw, Cushman 5" 3 jaw  and a 8" back plate along with truly custom wrenches.






A 10 inch Pratt Burnerd 4 jaw came with the lathes but doesn't fit


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## Thoro (Jan 14, 2014)

Hey, you got some nice tooling with your lathe.  Taper attachment, I'm jealous.

My H10 came out of a school too and it shows all the same signs of abuse as you described on your's.  Looks good though!

Do you think you're going to restore it much or just run it as is?  I know it's a hard decision.  One is a lot of work!  The other is wondering if you wish you did it, but are glad youre just making chips


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## cuseguy (Jan 14, 2014)

Nice grab! You can always tell school-owned machines by the red or orange paint used to highlight the important parts and some crossfeed/compound chew marks! 
Yours is the "new" style floor mount 10L, one of my favorite models.
Stevewb on ebay is the guy for felts, rebuild manuals and assorted handy items. The belts on ebay are generally ok, but not the best.


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## DAN_IN_MN (Jan 14, 2014)

Congratulations on your lathe!

Could you give us a pic of the other side of the chuck?


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## frank r (Jan 14, 2014)

SQUARESTOCK said:


> Starting out looking at getting a new flat belt



Use a serpentine automotive belt, they work great! They are very grippy. I just replaced mine on Saturday. The lathe had been stored for years with the leather belt under tension; it was so loose I had trouble turning anything. Now it works great. After glueing it on, I took up any slack with the motor tension adjuster.

Read post #48 here:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...-serpentine-belt-fix-today-157227/index3.html

BTW: you do not need to clamp it as shown, just press together with your fingers and hold for 30 seconds.

Also, You can save money by buying a used belt from a junkyard.


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## SQUARESTOCK (Jan 14, 2014)

DAN_IN_MN said:


> Congratulations on your lathe!
> 
> Could you give us a pic of the other side of the chuck?



Sure thing Dan, I believe it's a D1-4 mount, the studs are .625" diameter and are spaced appx. 2.8" apart on center.


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## woodtickgreg (Jan 15, 2014)

A nicely tooled up lathe, chucks, taper attachment, collet closer, tool holder and tools. Nice! What was the winning bid?


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## SQUARESTOCK (Jan 17, 2014)

woodtickgreg said:


> A nicely tooled up lathe, chucks, taper attachment, collet closer, tool holder and tools. Nice! What was the winning bid?




Well like always, more than I wanted to....$600 

I really don't have an idea what something like that is worth but I took a chance and so far am happy with the outcome.


Will try to re-coop some of it by selling the 10 inch chuck.


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## cuseguy (Jan 17, 2014)

SQUARESTOCK said:


> Well like always, more than I wanted to....$600
> 
> I really don't have an idea what something like that is worth but I took a chance and so far am happy with the outcome.
> 
> ...



It is worth twice that amount easily and selling that P & B chuck will cut your cost by 1/2 I figure. 
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


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## Tony Wells (Jan 17, 2014)

That's a D1-3 mount. The D1 specifies the style, and the 3 is the bolt circle the studs are on.


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## SQUARESTOCK (Jan 18, 2014)

Tony Wells said:


> That's a D1-3 mount. The D1 specifies the style, and the 3 is the bolt circle the studs are on.



Tony Wells, I understand the D1 camlock mounts but in my findings the second number doesn't stand for the number of studs. The second number represents the size in a numerical symbol  for the size of the tapered bore inside the stud pattern. 

I measured the PB 10 inch in the picture and came up with 2.5" and stud  diameter of 5/8" or .625" which according to drawings it's a D1-4 mount.

The measurement given in the same chart for a D1-3 is 2.125" and the stud diameter is 9/16" or .563"

The higher the second number the bigger the bore and the size of the studs and of the physical size.



Here's a link to dimensions I have looked at.  http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Lathe_Spindle_Mount.html#TypeD


I have been wrong before though, could you provide a chart with dimensions of a D1-3 and D1-4.

It's important to me getting this right on account I am wanting to sell it and don't want to misrepresent the mount.


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## Tony Wells (Jan 18, 2014)

You're correct, it is a D1-4. I was not suggesting that the 3 was the number of studs, however. I was referring to the size of bolt circle they are on. A quick glance at the way you were holding your scale was where I made the error. On a -4, the distance from centerline of the chuck to center of stud is 1.625, so the bolt circle would be 3.250, not 3 as I was remembering. That appears to be what you have. My mistake. I apologize.

Here is another chart:

http://www.victornet.com/reference/Lathe_Chuck.html

One quick way to tell is by looking at the OD of the flange. Round down to the nearest inch, and that is the -#. In your case, the flange should measure 4 5/8", making it a -4.


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## BruceB (Jan 18, 2014)

Hi Everyone

I've been a member of Hobby Machinist for a little while but I just purchased a SB Heavy 10 so I thought this would be a great place to start with my new toy. My first goal is to get it functional which should be relatively easy. I will need to replace the existing 3ph 440v motor and motor starter to a 3ph 575v or maybe make it a single phase machine.
I need a cross reference list of machine serial #'s and manufacturing dates because I'll need to get a manual for it as I hope to restore the machine.
The machines SN 21978R and has Flame hardened ways and a D1 chuck.
It currently comes with a very poorly done paint job that covers machined precision surfaces. The ways appear to be in excellent shape and the headstock bearing are good. Beyond that we will have to see what life throws our way.
I'll try and figure out how to post pictures to this forum.


Bruce B


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## woodtickgreg (Jan 18, 2014)

Bruce, it is not polite to crash someone else's thread. Start a new thread of your own and ask questions there, you will get lots of help I'm sure.


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## SQUARESTOCK (Jan 18, 2014)

Tony Wells said:


> You're correct, it is a D1-4. I was not suggesting that the 3 was the number of studs, however. I was referring to the size of bolt circle they are on. A quick glance at the way you were holding your scale was where I made the error. On a -4, the distance from centerline of the chuck to center of stud is 1.625, so the bolt circle would be 3.250, not 3 as I was remembering. That appears to be what you have. My mistake. I apologize.
> 
> Here is another chart:
> 
> ...



I believe there was some misunderstanding on both our parts.
Thank you sir for the clarification!


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## Rick Leslie (Jan 18, 2014)

Very nice score on the auction! You guys are killing me with the deals you report. I replaced my flat belt with a universal 'link' belt. Originally designed for "V" pulleys, I run it inverted with the flat to the pulley. They are cheap, virtually indestructible, universal and best of all, you don't have to take the spindle apart or cut and glue to install it.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Business-Industrial-/12576/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=link+belt

I got tired of the lace belt coming apart.


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## cuseguy (Jan 23, 2014)

I love the link belts when the application works for them. I used to have one on my 10K. But the SB undermount models have very little clearance to spare on belt thickness. I tried a link belt on my 10L for the heck of it and it rubbed so bad, it sounded like a helicopter! They are great belts though

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


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## drsorey (Jan 23, 2014)

squarestock,
My lathe is very similar to yours, but I got none of your tooling.  Your were very lucky.  
I am very interested in the collet attachment you have.  In the coming months, please post pictures of it as you clean and get it working.  I am thinking of making one.  I paid 1500. for mine and I also got plenty of dings, so you got a great deal.


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