# Logan bearings



## joebiplane

I received thw manual and parts document from Logan today...and having bought the ' copies" that are available on E-bay i have to say "KUDOS to Scott logan" for providing a very complete instruction and parts manual for his companies products . i learned that my Model 820 is the first generation of that model. ( 1st range of serial numbers for that 10 " model)  the manual is some 82 pages and clearly superior to the E-Bay varients...And half the price also.  i spent    $25.00 for the manual and then the 12.50 for the hardcopy shipped UPS Ground and i am very pleased with what i got. it contains much more detail than the E-Bay vendors products.  

Now I have a question about headstock bearings . I would like to check with industrial suppliers for replacement bearings, but how do i identify them to the supplier ? Can I just give him the Logan part number?  or must i bring the old bearing to the supplier?  i will likely order them from logan Actuator so I know I have the right parts but the front &amp; rear will cost about $300.00 for the set , what with shipping and all so i WOULD like to know if the price is within reason.
If anyone gan guide me i would appreciate it. I have located a Major supplier within 45 minutes of my home but i need to know how to identify what I want to purchase.
thanks 
joe


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## Starlight Tools

Joe, unless the Logan Manual uses "proper Convention" with the bearing numbers, the industrial supplier will not be able to cross reference. I get this all the time, bearing 1234 on the parts list, yup well 1234 does not tell me anything at all other than the location on the drawing. I know my 9x28 parts breakdown did not have the proper numbers, but the previous owner had pencilled in the numbers on my parts breakdown.

You may need to have the bearing in hand, or at least the dimensions or the markings off the bearing itself to match them at the bearing house. 

If you want to post the page of the manual that covers the bearings, I may be able to help further. If you have the bearings removed from the machine look for any number that mey be on there. 

also, it may just be the old grease has hardened, you might be able to get away with washing out the old bearing and regreasing it. Never allow the bearing to spin free by blowing compressed air on it when there is no grease in there.

Another thing you might want to do is go through the old posts on the lathe list yahoo group and see what has been mentioned there about that machine and its bearings.

Walter


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## joebiplane

Thanks Walter,
I expected exactly what you told me.... i will continue the search
Thanks again
Joe


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## joebiplane

I removed the bearings and located the " New Depatrure" numbers on each one
I contacted an industrial bearring distrubutor and ordered the set which I picked up today.
The price was within my budget so now have a new ste of bearing for my Logan 820 and a new snap ring to boot
Cost $ 105.54
sweet deal......i say !


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## Aub

Questions on 2 replies to Joebiplane.

1. Joebiplane; What were the New Departure part numbers? What were the original bearing numbers and Mfgr. Who did you buy replacements from?

2. Starlight_tools: did you replace the grease in a set of Logan Lathe bearings? What grease is to be used?
How do you proceed to take the spindle apart?

My Logan/Ward lathe exhibits a loud high pitched noise in the headstock when I run it at fastest belt speed. Seems to be coming mostly from the rear of the spindle. Since the machine runs well otherwise I think renewing the bearing grease before I damage them would be a viable way to go.

Thanks,
Aub


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## Tony Wells

Machine spindles use higher than standard class bearings, as a rule. It may be hard to justify for the home shop, but just be aware that there are different grades of bearings and unless you specify, you won't get the higher class (and cost) version.


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## Aub

Blue chips: Did you note the part number stamped on the side of the bearing. My lathe, a Ward model 700A (1941) has 1 bearing in the rear of the spindle and a double bearing in the front (chuck side). That is if I have the correct parts list. I have not yet taken the spindle apart.
That's why I asked for some instructions. It looks like the spindle comes apart by removing the rear collar which looks like it is threaded on. this collar seems held by a grub screw which is broken off in mine. 
The front looks like it is held by a pressure plate with 3 screws holding it in place.

Thanks,
Aub


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## Chazz

The tapered roller bearings in my import 9 x 20 were replaced with SKF Q7 bearings rated for 8,000 RPM with grease and 12,500 RPM in oil bath, cost $35.00 each. 


Most bearings (well quality ones anyway) will have the part number and serial numbers to match the set stamped right on the bearings.

Cheers,
Chazz


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## AR1911

The lathe-list Yahoo group is dedicated to Logan lathes, and the group owned and moderated by Scott Logan hisself. There was a spirited discussion there a few years ago about why Scott charged $300 for bearings that cost $100 or less at any old auto parts store. Scott said his were high -precision as original, required to maintain the precision the lathe was built with. Others argued that 1940s high-precision = modern average. I think the discussion ended  in a draw, Scott said he would only sell the high-grade bearings.


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## Tony Wells

That's probably true, but the option should be available to each individual to buy premium precision bearings or standard. It is, so if you don't want to put out the money for Scott's bearings and know what to expect, buy from the bearing supply house.


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## Aub

*Re: Logan Bearingsd*

Thanks Blue Chip.
My Ward/Logan 10" has a New Departure #77506 bearing in the left side of the headstock spindle. I think it has gone dry. There are no spacers or compression washers to provide load on this side. The bearing is 1 1/2 inch inner diameter and a single ball race. The part number on the bearing is the same as in the Logan parts list. So I assume it is a special made for Logan or at least part # stamped for Logan. 
New Departure merged with Hyatt in the 80's and are now a division of GM. I would guess that the same bearing is made by several Mfgr's and marketed under various numbers.
For me, I am going to try to shoot some grease or oil into the bearing by drilling a small hole on the race shield. I have nothing to loose and the spindle seems tight and smooth. If I can't get a good finish on my work then I will tear down the headstock and replace the bearings.
Much of my noise at high speed was caused by misalignment of the motor/counter-shaft assembly. The belt outside was rubbing on the assembly's casting. The motor V belt was also slipping as a result. 
But when I spin the spindle by hand with no load I can hear the bearings and it sounds like they are dry?
I was going to add a photo but do not know how to.


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## Aub

Thanks for the info; Blue Chips. My problem is several fold. The drive assembly belt set up instructions are wrong in the Logan manual. They have the small motor pulley with large jack-shaft pulley reversed with the large motor  and smaller jack-shaft pulleys. I was running the spindle at 1200 RPM and not 375 which I wanted. The belt must be the wrong one as there is just not enough adjustment by moving the base of the jack-shaft assembly away from the spindle to get the belt to stop rubbing on the frame. My Logan manual says this lathe, a 10" with legs, uses a 39" belt. The belt I got is 46 1/2" long. 39", as measured with a made up rope belt is far too short, unless the tension adjustment has been fouled up. It looks like this is what the case is as the adjustment turnbuckle has been welded.
Meanwhile, I placed a felt spacer soaked with turbine bearing oil, in the space behind the dust cap next to the bearing. I'll see how this works out until I get the drive assembly problem worked out.

Thanks for the bearing info. It looks like I'll be needing it.

Aub


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## Alan Douglas

Thanks for all the bearing info, which will be useful when I decide what, if anything, to do about the slightly noisy bearings in my 955.  I ordered a manual and belt from Scott recently and am happy with what I got.  My old belt was 55" and I never would have dared buy the 53 1/2" belt on Scott's list but it turned out to be exactly right when I ran the adjusting nut all the way in. As a bonus, the detent now works, that holds the jackshaft up when moving the belt on the pulleys.


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## geckocycles

I bought everything from Scott. They are proud of their stuff for sure. He was always there for me through out the 32 years of ownership. I figured I would help support them to stay in business. Look at how much support he is still giving to all who have a Logan that was originally sold so many many years ago. I know it hurts with EBay and all. I paid nearly $1000 for my collet closer form Scott 15 years ago and now I see them on EBay going for a couple of hundred. OUCH! 
Keep up the good support Scott.


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## Aub

This is a photo of my Ward/Logan 700A:


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## Mork

So...  has anybody found an after market bearing for the chuck side? If so I need this number. Thanks!


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## Chuck K

You could try soaking the bearings in pine-sol and regreasing them before going to the expense of replacing them.  I've done this with bearings that I thought were beyond saving with great results. I've tried all the usual solvents without much success. The pine-sol was recommended on Scott's site.  It just melts the old grease so it can be rinsed out with a stream of hot water.  The only downside is that I had to take the seals off to get them thoroughly clean.  I used mobil electric motor grease to repack them.  They suggest filling them 1/3 full.  I went about 1/2 full and didn't notice them heating up.  The front bearing is covered on both ends when the spindle is in the machine, so I wasn't concerned about chips getting to the bearing. The rear bearing on some models also has shields that press into the bore on both sides to keep the chips away from the bearing.   The rear bearing isn't anything special anyway and could be replaced inexpensively.   Good luck.


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

My bearings in my 820 sounded horrible, and would not "roll" very easy.
I got a strainer, and turkey baister from Walmart and used on old 1 gallon plastic container. And bought one gallon of Kerosene.
Filled the baister , laid the bearing in the strainer and applied the kerosene thru the bearing, did this for quite a while.  
After about 25 minutes of doing this, the bearing moved freely and was nearly spotless. 
Bought a cheap bearing greaser from Harbor Freight and blew the kero out, used alcohol to remove all the Kero I could and re-greased the bearing.

Perfect.


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