# New PM-932 seems too low to me.



## 38Bill (Jan 28, 2017)

I'm enjoying my new mill except that I find it sits too low on the std PM stand. I am not a tall person but I have to hunch over to see what I'm milling.  I believe I want more height than a simple rolling base would provide. I was thinking of welding up something or even casting a concrete pad that the mill would sit on. Anybody else have this problem? Any suggestions for height? Thanks.


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## Bob Korves (Jan 28, 2017)

If there are holes in the base, buy or build some feet to go under it.  Both my lathe and my mill are raised several inches that way.  Short term or quick and dirty, put some 4x4's under it...

Edit:  I would not cast a concrete pad under it.  Machines have a way of needing to be moved around occasionally, and shops get reorganized, often due to new or replaced machines.  Leave as many options open as possible for future changes.


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## 38Bill (Jan 29, 2017)

I wouldn't cast a pad under it. I would cast the pad first and then place it under the mill. There are counter top mixes that are fiber reinforced, high strength and made for casting. Should be easy to make it level and it sure would look better than some timbers.


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## T Bredehoft (Jan 29, 2017)

Just as a guide.  
Without planning the table of my PM25 (I know, the 932 is a larger machine) was installed on a used countertop, the work table of the mill is 44.5 inches from the floor. It is ideal for a work height. (I'm 5'10"). it could be a little higher, but is really convenient this high. I spent my working life with tables a lot lower, not realizing how much I was bending over to see the work.


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## Cobra (Jan 29, 2017)

I had the same concern with the Grizzly G0755 mill.
These are the risers that I used.
They are 7.25" overall height.  Made up from 5X5X1/2" Square tube and 6X1/2" Flat bar.
I then use the hockey puck and steel centre plate for leveling and shock absorption.
Much more comfortable to work at now.


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## 38Bill (Jan 29, 2017)

T Bredehoft said:


> Just as a guide.
> Without planning the table of my PM25 (I know, the 932 is a larger machine) was installed on a used countertop, the work table of the mill is 44.5 inches from the floor. It is ideal for a work height. (I'm 5'10"). it could be a little higher, but is really convenient this high. I spent my working life with tables a lot lower, not realizing how much I was bending over to see the work.



Thanks for the info, I'm 5'-9" and the table is only 35" off the floor. A couple of timers I have sat down while working but that puts my face in the firing line if anything goes bad.


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## 38Bill (Jan 29, 2017)

Cobra said:


> I had the same concern with the Grizzly G0755 mill.
> These are the risers that I used.
> They are 7.25" overall height.  Made up from 5X5X1/2" Square tube and 6X1/2" Flat bar.
> I then use the hockey puck and steel centre plate for leveling and shock absorption.
> ...


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## Cobra (Jan 29, 2017)

No, when I built the house, the garage floor was troweled to a polished finish so it is very flat, but I was concerned with slipping of the steel on the epoxy/concrete so I put a layer of 1/8" 70 durometer rubber (like firm gasket material) on the bottom surface of each.


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## zmotorsports (Jan 30, 2017)

I fabricated a riser for my PM935TV approx. 8" off the ground and it is now perfect for me.  I am 6'2" and my son is 6'4" and both of us find it comfortable.  I believe you have the PM932 with the case base, which is pretty much the same machine as its predecessor, the PM45.  Will, aka Darkzero, has a thread on his machine where he also fabricated a riser, here is a link to Will's thread for reference.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/my-pm45m-pdf.9885/

Mike.


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## Dan_S (Jan 30, 2017)

I'm 6' even, and the top of my 940's table is 41.5" off the floor. That's 6.75" higher than stock thanks to the base I made. I should probably jack it up another inch and a half or so, but I've been putting it off because I don't want to re level the thing.


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## tmarks11 (Jan 31, 2017)

38Bill said:


> Thanks for the info, I'm 5'-9" and the table is only 35" off the floor. A couple of timers I have sat down while working but that puts my face in the firing line if anything goes bad.


Maybe a shop stool would put your face at a better height?


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## RIMSPOKE (Feb 1, 2017)

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY PM-727M . 

I SOLVED IT BY REPLACING THE STAND WITH A 5 DRAWER VIDMAR CABINET 
THAT IS 5 INCHES TALLER THAN THE STAND . 

WAKES A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE AND STORES ALL MY MILL STUFF . 






THE PM STAND IS NOW DOING A FINE JOB AS A BASE FOR MY ARBOR PRESS .


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## 38Bill (Feb 2, 2017)

The new PM932's come with the cast base not the cabinet style. So far I'm thinking I'll do something like Cobra made,. It looks simple yet strong and would let me make it as high as I wanted.


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## Downunder Bob (Feb 4, 2017)

Cobra said:


> I had the same concern with the Grizzly G0755 mill.
> These are the risers that I used.
> They are 7.25" overall height.  Made up from 5X5X1/2" Square tube and 6X1/2" Flat bar.
> I then use the hockey puck and steel centre plate for leveling and shock absorption.
> ...



I made some thing similar to put under my lathe, but it appears my garage floor is not flat as it rocks a little, so I'm going to have to add some feet with jacking screws to stop the rocking and to re-level it.


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## Bob Korves (Feb 4, 2017)

bobshobby said:


> I made some thing similar to put under my lathe, but it appears my garage floor is not flat as it rocks a little, so I'm going to have to add some feet with jacking screws to stop the rocking and to re-level it.


Using shims to cure the rocking is a much easier path to the same end.


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## Downunder Bob (Feb 5, 2017)

Bob Korves said:


> Using shims to cure the rocking is a much easier path to the same end.



I thought about using shims, but decided against it as my lathe is backed up against a wall and in the corner, so I cant get behind it to place the shims, As I'm going to need to pull it out from the wall from time to time, I'm in the process of making a  set of 4 machine skates that I can use to wheel it away from the wall, when needed. Once it's out from the wall I'll weld some outrigger legs onto the subframe, and fit jacking screws to them. Then when all the bits are made and ready to go I'll get the lathe up onto the skates pull it out from the wall, weld the outrigger legs with jacking screws on, then push the whole lot back into place, and adjust the jacking screws.


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## Clogs (Feb 5, 2017)

Hi all from over the pond..........
simalar problems myself, machines to low (2 lathes +2mill's) crap floor (moving, so it'll get better in the new shop) plus I sometimes have to move the machines around for a big'ish job......never enough room, as always........
made/welded heavy duty 4x2 metal frames with adjustable feet for all the machines, no quite perfect hight on everything but close enough.........bonus points are that I can shift em around on a pallet truck.......I have a fettling bench (go on ask what that is) hahaha, lets see if anyone reads my thread..... that weigh's in close to 1/2 ton (must learn how to post photo's)......as it needs to be moved a yard or 3 foot to use the metal cropper........

happy day's........Clogs, cos I wear'em.............hahaha..........


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## Cobra (Feb 6, 2017)

Clogs said:


> Hi all from over the pond..........
> simalar problems myself, machines to low (2 lathes +2mill's) crap floor (moving, so it'll get better in the new shop) plus I sometimes have to move the machines around for a big'ish job......never enough room, as always........
> made/welded heavy duty 4x2 metal frames with adjustable feet for all the machines, no quite perfect hight on everything but close enough.........bonus points are that I can shift em around on a pallet truck.......I have a fettling bench (go on ask what that is) hahaha, lets see if anyone reads my thread..... that weigh's in close to 1/2 ton (must learn how to post photo's)......as it needs to be moved a yard or 3 foot to use the metal cropper........
> 
> happy day's........Clogs, cos I wear'em.............hahaha..........



I had an earlier hobby silver and gold smithing.  All my fettling was done with very small tools at a little bench in the basement!


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## Cobra (Feb 6, 2017)

bobshobby said:


> I thought about using shims, but decided against it as my lathe is backed up against a wall and in the corner, so I cant get behind it to place the shims, As I'm going to need to pull it out from the wall from time to time, I'm in the process of making a  set of 4 machine skates that I can use to wheel it away from the wall, when needed. Once it's out from the wall I'll weld some outrigger legs onto the subframe, and fit jacking screws to them. Then when all the bits are made and ready to go I'll get the lathe up onto the skates pull it out from the wall, weld the outrigger legs with jacking screws on, then push the whole lot back into place, and adjust the jacking screws.




Bob
I don't know how your lathe is but when I got the G0750G, I was concerned with the stability.  The base didn't seem wide enough for my liking.
I ran extensions on either side to give a bigger footprint.  They were from 3X3 angle with 5/8" fine thread jacks for leveling.  The jacks are just 5/8" threaded rod with hex milled on top and a 60 degree point on the bottom.  The points of the jacks engage the steel disk shown which then sits on hockey pucks.  The angle iron is attached by a couple of bolts and a row of 3/16" SS pop rivets.  Makes leveling very easy and eliminates another source of vibration.


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## Downunder Bob (Feb 8, 2017)

Cobra said:


> Bob
> I don't know how your lathe is but when I got the G0750G, I was concerned with the stability.  The base didn't seem wide enough for my liking.
> I ran extensions on either side to give a bigger footprint.  They were from 3X3 angle with 5/8" fine thread jacks for leveling.  The jacks are just 5/8" threaded rod with hex milled on top and a 60 degree point on the bottom.  The points of the jacks engage the steel disk shown which then sits on hockey pucks.  The angle iron is attached by a couple of bolts and a row of 3/16" SS pop rivets.  Makes leveling very easy and eliminates another source of vibration.
> 
> ...



Thanks Jim, Likewise I was concerned about stability and also wanted to insulate the lateh from the floor to reduce vibration. Prior to my lathe being delivered I made up a steel frame from 75mm x 3mm. square tube, into a rectangular frame all welded, for the lathe to be bolted onto and then adjusted with jacking screws. Unfortunately the concrete floor where my lathe is, appears to be not quite level, so I get a bit of rocking. 

My plan is a bit complicated but it solves a  couple of other problems. I realise that I will at some time have to be able to pull the lathe out from against the wall where it is to get access behind, for cleaning, access to the motor and switch box, etc. So I have decided to make  a set of 4 machine skates, they are about half made  (will post some pics when finished). also some lifting plates on each end so that I can get my trolley jack under and lift it onto the skates , one end at a time. then pull the lathe straight out. 

When in that position I will weld some Jacking points onto the front and back of the frame near each end, so that when the lathe is pushed back into place and the skates removed I can then adjust the jacking screws as required. i will post some pics of the whole process when its in action.

Here in Australia hockey is not widely played so I have no idea where to get hockey pucks, but I have used some special rubber pads that are designed for mounting and insulating machines from vibration.

 I also plan to make a pad to mount a small jib crane into the base at the headstock end as I can't lift the 4 jaw chuck, (bad back and age), even the 3 jaw is a struggle. I used to be able to lift and carry 224lb, at 19 years old and in the army.


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## Cobra (Feb 8, 2017)

Best of luck Bob.  Much more elegant solution than what I use if I need access to the back. Pick up one end at a time with an engine hoist and walk it out from the wall!  Then I have the enjoyable task of re-leveling the thing again.  Consequently I do a lot of squirming around in the narrow space behind when it needs service.
Show some photos when you are done if you can.
Jim


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## Downunder Bob (Feb 9, 2017)

Cobra said:


> Best of luck Bob.  Much more elegant solution than what I use if I need access to the back. Pick up one end at a time with an engine hoist and walk it out from the wall!  Then I have the enjoyable task of re-leveling the thing again.  Consequently I do a lot of squirming around in the narrow space behind when it needs service.
> Show some photos when you are done if you can.
> Jim



When I get it done I'll post some pics you might want to do something similar, save you a lot of squirming around. My back and hips won't let me do that any more, so I had to come up with a solution.


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## 38Bill (Feb 16, 2017)

So I just finished building a base. As shown it raises the mill 5 1/2" and that may be all I need. If I want to go higher I can crank the feet down or add a piece of alum plate under the feet. The feet were made by milling out the top of a hockey puck and inserting a 1/2" thick alum disc. The disk is threaded to hold the 5/8" rod and a jamb nut is used to lock it together. The feet do not have to turn as they are adjusted by turning a nut under the steel legs. The threaded rod is coarse thread but it adjusts very nicely. Thanks everybody for all the ideas. 

PS: I used Rustoleum Safety Blue color paint and its not bad but it is a little lighter than the mill          color. Rustoleum also makes a Sail Blue color that is slightly darker and just may be a better          color match but I haven't tried it.


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## Downunder Bob (Feb 17, 2017)

38Bill said:


> So I just finished building a base. As shown it raises the mill 5 1/2" and that may be all I need. If I want to go higher I can crank the feet down or add a piece of alum plate under the feet. The feet were made by milling out the top of a hockey puck and inserting a 1/2" thick alum disc. The disk is threaded to hold the 5/8" rod and a jamb nut is used to lock it together. The feet do not have to turn as they are adjusted by turning a nut under the steel legs. The threaded rod is coarse thread but it adjusts very nicely. Thanks everybody for all the ideas.
> 
> PS: I used Rustoleum Safety Blue color paint and its not bad but it is a little lighter than the mill          color. Rustoleum also makes a Sail Blue color that is slightly darker and just may be a better          color match but I haven't tried it.
> 
> ...



 G'day, That blue in the photo looks pretty close, once it's got a bit of age on it I don't think it will matter.

I made a base similar to that for my lathe, but it doesn't extend out beyond the lathe base enough to fit screws, so I'm going to have to weld some extension pieces to it. Down on my hands and knees for that job. So that I can fit screws to jack it up with, I don't need much height just want to level it, and stop it from rocking. the floor under the base isn't quite flat. Also Hockey pucks are a bit like hens teeth here in down under, so I'll just have to use a piece of hard industrial rubber. I'll post some pics when the job is done. Got a few other things to do first.


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## brino (Feb 17, 2017)

Clogs said:


> simalar problems myself, machines to low.......made/welded heavy duty 4x2 metal frames with adjustable feet for all the machines......
> 
> I have a fettling bench (go on ask what that is),
> 
> ...



Hi @Clogs 
I read your post!
I'd really like to see some photos of your machine bases.

....and oh yeah, what's a fettling bench? 

-brino


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## Downunder Bob (Feb 17, 2017)

brino said:


> Hi @Clogs
> I read your post!
> I'd really like to see some photos of your machine bases.
> 
> ...


I'm not sure what a fettling bench is, but I believe a fettler is someone who works on maintaining railway tracks


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