# Grizzly T10295 7-pc indexable tool set inserts - which ones?



## cmv (Dec 8, 2012)

http://www.grizzly.com/products/7-Piece-Indexable-Carbide-Set-5-8-/T10295

This set is vague about the inserts it uses.  Grizzly sells sets of 7 assorted inserts but doesn't specify the grade of insert.  Also, I'd prefer more of some, fewer of others because some of the tools get used a lot more than others, so buying an equal amount of each I'd have too many of some & not enough of another.

Typically their documentation is pretty good but not on these, so I'm unsure of what inserts to buy for this set.  Specifically these 2 tools:
RH Threading (LW with JCL insert) - RH Threading tool, LW holder, JCL insert Cut-off/Grooving (QA with JCQ Insert) - Cut-off/Grooving tool, QA holder, JCQ insert 

No idea what a JCL or JCQ insert is.  Any help or direction where to find those inserts would be appreciated.

I turn 6061, 7075, 4140, 303, 304, 416, & 6AL4V.  I found (by trial & error) which inserts work well for some other indexable tooling I have for the different materials & will need to do the same for these.  The CCMT size is common to what I already have so I'm good there, but for the others I'll need to find what works best.


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## Old Iron (Dec 8, 2012)

I have the ones that Tools4Cheap sells and I have had good luck with mine. In the add he tells you which inserts to use.

Paul

http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=carb7pclg


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## icore3user (Dec 8, 2012)

This is the set I got, though in hindsight i should have opted for the 5/8" set, but my lockdown screw will still tighten the 3/8" set

http://www.shars.com/products/view/2763/38quot_Indexable_Carbide_Turning_Tool_Set


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## cmv (Dec 8, 2012)

That Shars set looks identical other than the case.  I have the 5/8 set & that link shows the insert flavors pretty nicely.  I'm guessing the threading & parting tool inserts aren't a standard insert & something made just for these?  Maybe my searching skills are too weak, but I'm not finding something similar at MSC, Grainger, Enco, etc.  Guess I can get them from Shars site & hope they're good quality.  I bought some of their QCTP holders & a boring bar and can't complain.


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## icore3user (Dec 12, 2012)

the set works fine ( for me ) , and I am turning cold rolled steel, have yet to try AU. Allready broke the parting tool ( still learning the what not to do on my lathe ), so I ordered another with replaceable inserts. I am happy with the quality, their website how ever is a bit of a pain to manuever around when looking for stuff. Having the catalog handy is easier I find and so I type in the part number and then a item comes up ready to add to the cart.


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## Phils69 (Dec 13, 2012)

CMV . You are right down the road from me. Like you said the CCMT and DCMTs are plentiful but the thread and cutoff are definetly not. I like the style of part off tool in the link below. Lots of vendors make those inserts.


http://www2.coromant.sandvik.com/coromant/pdf/smallparts/C-2902-7/eng/B38_B40.pdf


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## Starlight Tools (Dec 13, 2012)

Personally, I have switched over to the M100DEX 1/2" shank insert holders. See www.kbctools.com page 291 for more info on them.  They come in a variety of size shanks from 1/4" up to 5/8", but they all use the same size inserts within the series.  (21.51).  They have a four piece set for DCMT/DCGT inserts and a 7 piece set for CCMT/CCGT inserts.

The set you posted from Grizzly, I had a similar set in the 3/8 shank and found that the parting and threading inserts were a waste of time, but the other holders were OK.  On the 9x28 Logan they handled themselves well, but on the 14x40, I was getting too much flex in the shanks, thus the switch to the M100DEX in 1/2"

For Aluminium, Plastics and Copper I get the best performance from the DCGT / CCGT inserts.  Then for steels, I switch to DCMT/CCMT inserts.

Walter


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## cmv (Dec 13, 2012)

Phil - how deep a cut can you make with that tool?  Part of the trouble I'm having with parting tools in general is I'm playing around with a lot of 6AL4V TI.  The only way I can cut a piece of stock is to part it - I don't have anything else that will cut Ti.  Anything with larger than 1.5" diameter I have a hard time getting a small piece from the long piece of stock.

Hate to pay $100+ for a parting tool, but I think I need a good one.  The BXA clamp-type one that came with my QCTP set is a frustrating POS.  It will let the blade slip & then snap or else push back in the holder.  The one that came with set did OK but doesn't have quite the reach to handle 1.75" stock.


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## Phils69 (Dec 14, 2012)

That tool I linked to is like a standard CNC lathe cutoff tool normaly for 1 3/8" max dia. With the titanium on a manual lathe I'd probaly try a standard brazed carbide tipped blade style tool. What blade size, width & height, do you have on your standard parting holder? Can you post a link of the one you have? I may can find one and send you to try if you haven't already.


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## Phils69 (Dec 14, 2012)

Oops. Just saw that your blade cutoff holder was slipping on you. I have used a Seco brand holder very similar to the one in the link below that worked well on a CNC.

http://glanze.com/indexable-tool-holders/tth-parting-tool-holders-with-blades.html


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## cmv (Dec 14, 2012)

Similar to this one.  Blade is 5/8" high, 1/8" wide (I think would have to go look at it to be sure).




I just got one of these yesterday & haven't tried yet.  Blad is tiny so I don't think it will be useful.  Shank is small enough to fit in a regular BXA toolholder so it's probably about the right size tool for a mini lathe.


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## Phils69 (Dec 14, 2012)

I would use the one you had already with a brazed carbide blade on it. I'll see if I can find one in that size for you to try. Do you have a mill? If so I would make a plate to bolt on the side of the holder so that you could have locking screws perpendicular to the blade. That would keep it rigid enough so that the blade stays fixed. I haven't run much titanium but it looks to be similar in machining to 304SS. Run the carbide at 250 SFM at the start dia and it should work ok pending the lathe is rigid enough. I'll get back to you if I can find a blade.


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## Phils69 (Dec 16, 2012)

Nix the carbide idea unless you have a carbide grinder to sharpen it on. I spoke with an old manual guy at work and he said the main problem is the 1\8" size on your tool. Go with a 3/32" with a 20 to 30 deg taper on the top with longest edge to the right and  a 3 deg relief down the front. The key is being on center, square with the chuck and rigidity. Put the tool in the holder and verify you are at center, or a hair below, against a dead center in the tail stock. If you have tension stops on the carriage use them. Get in cut off position, tighten left to right and compound stops firmly. Insure you are parallel with the chuck, drag a indicator across the side of the blade if you have issues with this. Put a slight drag on the crosslide stop to prevent jumping in your leadscrew play. Applying the center will help greatly. If you can't center drill the part make a pressure pad out of aluminum with a centerdrilled hole on one side to go between the center and the part. 
With the titanium it seems to work harden pretty quickly. Start out around 200 rpm and feed by hand fairly aggressively. Don't dwell or you will make your life miserable. If you have to break a chip release then get back into the cut quickly. When you get down to near a nub, 1/4"?or so remove center and finish the cut off. Like I said trying the 3/32" will help you out a lot. Good luck.


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## cmv (Dec 23, 2012)

200 rpm?  I part everything at 60 rpm.  Maybe 180 for 6061, but i thought you were supposed to turn as slow as possible when parting.  I turn Ti at 200 rpm under flood coolant but don't go any faster so I'm not sure about parting at that speed?  I part it under flood coolant also, but I think that still generates a lot more heat than turning.

The indexable tool that came with this set did a pretty decent job.  Stock was 1.650 so I couldn't get that last little nub in the center, but it was small enough that i could flex the part a little & snap it off.  Might relieve the tool a hair so I can get a deeper cut out of it.

Definitely need to get different flavor inserts for the tools for different materials.  Did a gun barrel yesterday & wasn't real happy with the surface finish - about the same as you'd get with a brazed carbide tool on 4140.  But the shape of the tool was perfect for what I was doing and that made the job a lot easier.


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## Phils69 (Dec 24, 2012)

I would use whatever RPM that has been working for you. If you are doing it with HSS definetly try the 3/32" width route. If going the insert able route I would use the holder above that you can slide in and out for depth adjustment. Have you tried the chop saw route if you are just cutting off pcs of material? I believe Norton makes wheels for the titanium.


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## cmv (Dec 24, 2012)

Chop saw wont do 1/2" diameter even.  Maybe I need a special blade.  But the chop saw will cut maybe an 1/8" and then it will just sit there generating heat & brilliant white sparks.  Work hardens pretty much as soon as the blade hits.  I am using the HF black 14" chop saw.  Tried their blades & the DeWalt one from Lowe's, so I'm sure there's something better out there.  It does Ti tubing ok, but bar stock is a no-go.

I'm going to guess that people who cut it for a living use a band saw with a special blade & flood coolant.

Will try a thinner blade - makes sense that it would have an easier time plowing through.


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## Phils69 (Dec 24, 2012)

It would be worth a try ordering one of these if you can find them. Says its made for that type of material.

http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Reinforced-Abrasive-Zirconia-Thickness/dp/B000LE9DJO


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