# Homemade arbors....FUN FUN FUN



## Suzuki4evr (May 10, 2019)

I saved a lot of money today and had fun doing so. I made three ISO30 arbors for my mill. I made it out 4140. A arbor for my face mill.




One for my new B16 self tightening drill chuck wich I bought on eBay. 


It doesn't look tapered on the pic,but it is.


I got a ER40 collet nut,also on eBay and I finally got around to the arbor. 




And here they are.


Thanks for viewing.

Michael


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## brino (May 10, 2019)

Nice job Michael!

Thanks for sharing it.
-brino


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## buffdan (May 10, 2019)

very nice !


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## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD (May 10, 2019)

Fantastic!


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## Martin W (May 10, 2019)

Looks great.
Cheers
Martin


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## jcp (May 10, 2019)

Very impressive.


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## Suzuki4evr (May 10, 2019)

Thanks for all the compliments guys


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## Janderso (Jun 7, 2019)

That’s precision work. Good job.
Looks like fun.


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## Suzuki4evr (Jun 7, 2019)

Janderso said:


> That’s precision work. Good job.
> Looks like fun.


Thanks Jeff. It was and made life easier.


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## Bob Korves (Jun 7, 2019)

Fussy work, and you did a nice job.  Too bad you live in such a machining desert...


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## Suzuki4evr (Jun 7, 2019)

Bob Korves said:


> Fussy work, and you did a nice job.  Too bad you live in such a machining desert...


Why do you say it is machining desert, I don't understand?


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## Bob Korves (Jun 7, 2019)

Suzuki4evr said:


> Why do you say it is machining desert, I don't understand?


Because that is what I have come to understand from posts by many machinists in southern Africa who seem to have immense troubles finding tooling that is easy to find at reasonable cost in other parts of the world.  I also took it that you made them because they were rare and expensive there.  If I am wrong, please correct me.  I have no real idea about machining in southern Africa, just parroting what people there seem to think of the situation that they live with in their posts.


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## Suzuki4evr (Jun 7, 2019)

I understand what you mean now. In my opinion I would say availability is the big problem but yes expensive, definitely. That is one of the main reasons I try to make my own tooling. And I really enjoy making it and it is very satisfactory. When I browse on eBay and see what tooling cost in the US it is always inviting till I see the shipping cost wich is ridiculous. You guys are really lucky in that sense.


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## forhire (Jun 7, 2019)

I suspect you made your wages today. 

Good Job.


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## plunger (Jun 8, 2019)

Suzuki4evr said:


> I understand what you mean now. In my opinion I would say availability is the big problem but yes expensive, definitely. That is one of the main reasons I try to make my own tooling. And I really enjoy making it and it is very satisfactory. When I browse on eBay and see what tooling cost in the US it is always inviting till I see the shipping cost wich is ridiculous. You guys are really lucky in that sense.


Have you ever ordered from e bay.? I thought they dont deliver to S A?Nice work .And yes we live in a machining desert.


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## Suzuki4evr (Jun 8, 2019)

All the time. Just mostly where free shipping apply. They deliver to the post office and you pay a small postage fee.


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## tjb (Jun 8, 2019)

Beautiful work.  Can you provide any specs/details on how you made them?

Regards,
Terry


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## Suzuki4evr (Jun 8, 2019)

There is not much to tell. I used 4140 for the arbors. The arbors are ISO30. It is for a B18 drill chuck,face mill and ER40 collet chuck. I think you can find the specs of these in a machinist handbook or internet. I got it in my book. Hope it helps


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## Suzuki4evr (Jun 8, 2019)

Terry you can also just copy the arbors on the mill side you have like R8 or Iso40 and the other end is whatever you want to attach.


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## Suzuki4evr (Jun 8, 2019)

Bob Korves said:


> Because that is what I have come to understand from posts by many machinists in southern Africa who seem to have immense troubles finding tooling that is easy to find at reasonable cost in other parts of the world.  I also took it that you made them because they were rare and expensive there.  If I am wrong, please correct me.  I have no real idea about machining in southern Africa, just parroting what people there seem to think of the situation that they live with in their posts.


I must add that availability also depends on where about you live in SA. If you live near a big city you should be able to get tools fairly easily, but again price is the problem


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## plunger (Jun 13, 2019)

I am doff when it comes to maths. I was reading a practical machinest thread about tapers. The guy did the maths but made some elementry error. I just could not understand it. I dont know what minutes ,seconds and radians are, 
So I would like to know if there is a correct way to do this.I once had a well made  homemade sine bar ,case hardened and ground but it was stolen. So ,without bluffing myself ,how would one set up the compound to cut an iso 40 taper when you are clueless in math.Also it seems that some good thought process is needed here as one runs out of options on how to hold your workpiece and keep deadnuts contricity.
What would be the logical steps for making an iso 40 arbor for a thirteen mm chuck. 
Are you happy with the accuracy and feel of that keyless chuck and where and how much did it cost?Looks like your lathe gives a real good finish .What inserts do you use.?


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## Suzuki4evr (Jun 13, 2019)

Hallo Plunger. You're full of questions this morning .
1-Degrees minutes seconds.
If your arbor have a taper of 8degr 17'50" you can punch that into you scientific calculater where it says DM'S", punching 8 then the DMS button then17,again DMS and 50,again DMS and then the equal button and that would give the angle,wich in this case would be 8.297degrees. And that answers your 2nd question on how you set set your compound. Another way is if you have a exist iso40 arbor wich you can clamp and set up true,you can run a gauge along the taper until the needle stays on "0". This would be the most effective in my opinion and this goes for your chuck B16 or B18 arbor too. The first method you would have to set up your conpound exactly using a test indicator and your tailstock. Joe Picsyncski explains it very well on how to do this. Here is that link.




.

On the workpiece holding question I would say do the iso side first but machine only to about 1 or 2mm before size and do not taper yet,do the sholder as well so you can clamp on it later,also not final size. Then turn it around, set it up and do your chuck side. Turn the it around,set up again, and by taking light passes,do the taper. Remember to set ypur compound before you clamp the arbor if you are going to use the arbor clocking method. You can also do this by making iso40 side semi finished and the chuck side taper finnished,put your chuck on and clamp a piece of 13mm toolsteel in the lathe chuck and clock it. Then clamp your drill chuck and arbor on that and machine in this manner,but this might vibrate if you can not use it by using a tailstock senter.

The chuck is not bad at all and I am happy with it. The total was R400 (+-$27) with postage and shipping was free.
The insers are Corloy WNMG080408 PC9030. Also on ebay for about(+-$55) R800/2 boxes of 10. That is about what it costs for one box here in SA.

I hope I could help and explained it well enough. If ther is someone with more knowledge, they are welcome to chime in. I will add pics of a diagram and the inserts if that can help. But NOW I must get to work.


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## Bob Korves (Jun 13, 2019)

plunger said:


> I dont know what minutes ,seconds and radians are,







__





						Intuitive Guide to Angles, Degrees and Radians – BetterExplained
					





					betterexplained.com
				







__





						Degrees, Minutes And Seconds To Decimal Degrees And Radians Calculator
					

This script is designed To convert decimal form to degrees/minutes/seconds, take the decimal part of the coordinate and multiply by 60 to get the minutes.



					www.csgnetwork.com
				



Edit:  As my Dad would have said, "You can't learn any younger."


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