# Fun with a cheap stick welder



## homebrewed (Jul 9, 2022)

I recently bought a cheap inverter stick welder from Amazon to play with.  I never have used one prior to this so wasn't sure how difficult it would be to use.  The photo below shows my very first attempts at using a stick welder:




My first "bead" is on the bottom.  The arc length clearly was far to long.  I used 2mm 6013 rod.  The first try was at 80 amps and that was WAY too much current.  It ate up that rod like nobody's business.  The center bead was done at 70 amps.  Better.  The top two short beads were done at 60 amps.  Better yet and might actually be useful for making something .  I also was learning some technique along the way so I probably now can get 70 amps to look better, too.

Based on my initial trials, the 2mm rod seems pretty small for most jobs I'd be doing.  I need to get some larger-diameter rod and see how that works.  According to the manufacturer the welder can go up to 200 amps so there's a lot of  headroom to play with.  

I'm not going to be using the welder to make stuff like trailers where the failure of a weld could spell catastrophy.  It mostly will be for repairing gardening tools, making workbenches.and the like.

The slag is pretty tough, took a bit of chipping to get it off.

This type of welder basically is a type of heavy-duty switching mode power supply.  SMPS'es don't seem to be as reliable as the old linear PSU's but with one of those you're not going to be getting 200 amp capability in a box you can (easily) lift with one hand.


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## markba633csi (Jul 9, 2022)

You are right about the arc length- the spatter means too far away; a common beginner error
The other error is moving too fast- but I see that's a thin piece, easy to burn thru
Practice on some thicker stuff
-M
With 3/32" and 1/8" 60xx series rods you should be able to fix just about anything


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## Ulma Doctor (Jul 9, 2022)

6013 is designed to be used on new, clean steel with good fit up- little spatter during use
6010, 6011 are designed for unprepared metal , and poor fit up- higher spatter during use

try to keep a 15° drag angle and let the rod dictate your speed by watching the puddle instead of the arc


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## markba633csi (Jul 9, 2022)

Not sure if this rule applies to dc but for ac the thickness of the rod dictates the current
for example 1/8" rod = 0.125" = 125 amps approximately
When you master the art of welding you'll feel like a bunny flying first class with a bow tie:


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## homebrewed (Jul 10, 2022)

All good feedback, much appreciated!  The welding side of things is a relatively new venture for me so it's fun to see what's possible with hobbyist-level tools.  I started with a HF wire welder (interestingly enough, it cost more than the new stick welder).  I didn't like the result with the AC so I modified it to output DC with a high power bridge rectifier and capacitor and that improved things a lot.  I think I spent about another $50 for the upgrade parts.  It now is a DCEN welder.

So far the stick welder looks like it will be a step above the HF welder but I'm not going to get rid of the HF box.  I think it still will be good for welding smaller-gauge stuff like gardening tools.  The welding wire is a bit under 1mm in diameder so there's less chance of burning through thin stuff.  I've already used it to repair a rake and a small hoe and they're holding up OK so far.  It struggled when I used it to make a few home-made house jacks (actually barn jacks) so the stick welder will be a welcome addition to my welding repertoire.


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## Karl_T (Jul 10, 2022)

I keep this power chart taped to my stick welder


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## snoopdog (Jul 10, 2022)

Try some thicker stuff for practice, run a flapper wheel  over it, and don't worry about whipping the rod until you get your rod angle and speed. Watch the puddle.


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## Ulma Doctor (Jul 10, 2022)

6013 is a straight drag , no whip is used

6010, 6011 , 7010, 7011 ( and all the other XX10, XX11's) are fast freeze rods- the whip or a box pattern is most often used
i often will make the cursive E pattern, when fit up is poor


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## homebrewed (Jul 10, 2022)

Ulma Doctor said:


> 6013 is a straight drag , no whip is used
> 
> 6010, 6011 , 7010, 7011 ( and all the other XX10, XX11's) are fast freeze rods- the whip or a box pattern is most often used
> i often will make the cursive E pattern, when fit up is poor


Good info, thanks!


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## pontiac428 (Jul 10, 2022)

You should give 7014 a try.  It's a good all-rounder for low alloy steels, but the arc control, slag lift, and bead finish will make you feel all good inside.  It's what I learned with as a teenager.  Master the basics, then try dirtier/more finnicky fillers like 6010.

Edit:  Unless you're a farmer.  If you are, you're ready to go to work on some equipment!


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## Abrasive (Jul 10, 2022)

The weld dot com YouTube channel has some great introductory (and more advanced) stick welding videos.  Here are a couple you might  heck out to start with:










The best way to learn is arc time.  Padding beads on plate is a great way to get more consistent.  When you build a 6x3” piece of 3/8 plate up to doorstop size, well, you‘ll have learned SOMETHING anyway.

Don’t be afraid to brace, prop, or otherwise support yourself.  Actively look for ways you can improve your stability when welding.  There’s no shame in that.  Pros will do it every single time.

I am fortunate enough to have several welding processes available to me in my shop, but stick welding is my happy place.  I really enjoy a session of just burning rod and working on some aspect of my skills.


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## markba633csi (Jul 10, 2022)

Getting a good view of the weld is very important, I've found.  If you can't see clearly what you are doing, you can't do a good job
Those new auto-dark full color helmets are pretty nice- but expensive.  I'm still using my 50 dollar budget auto helmet, for the money it's alright
-M


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## westerner (Jul 10, 2022)

snoopdog said:


> Watch the puddle.


Best advice I can give. 
Sometimes it is tough to see thru the slag, but you can get the gist with a little practice. 
I am far from a certified welder, so I feel no shame when I say-

"I will choose 6011 over 7018 every time I can get away with it."


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## homebrewed (Jul 11, 2022)

pontiac428 said:


> You should give 7014 a try.  It's a good all-rounder for low alloy steels, but the arc control, slag lift, and bead finish will make you feel all good inside.  It's what I learned with as a teenager.  Master the basics, then try dirtier/more finnicky fillers like 6010.
> 
> Edit:  Unless you're a farmer.  If you are, you're ready to go to work on some equipment!


My wife Lisa said she married me because I _wasn't_ a farmer.  Then she started turning me into one (I didn't protest overmuch) .  Learning to weld is just part of that progression!  Once I get somewhat proficient, one of the first things I want to make is a set of forks to attach to the front loader.  They look like they could be handy for all sorts of things.  And Lisa has pointed out some trellis designs I "should look at".....

I didn't get any 70XX rod to try because it's been my impression that it's sensitive to moisture.  Living in western Oregon we tend to get a lot of that there moisture.  I see you live in Bremerton so you know exactly what I'm talking about.

I have a toaster oven I bought specifically for tempering home-made springs and  hardened alloy steel.  Is it OK to dry rod out in an oven heated to ~200F or so, then use it to weld?  If so, I'll add 7014 to my library.


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## Just for fun (Jul 11, 2022)

Good question on drying out your welding rod.   Living in eastern Washington I don't have the moisture problem.

To store my rod I have made a couple of PVC containers.


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## Abrasive (Jul 11, 2022)

70xx are not inherently more (or less) sensitive to moisture.  The 70 refers to the 70ksi tensile strength of the deposited metal.

(You're probably thinking of low-hydrogen rods like 7018 and 7028.  XXX8, XXX5 and XXX6 are low-hydrogen rods.)

200F won't really dry a rod that's gotten wet.  That's at the low end of storage temperature.  If you have issues, 300-350F for 20-30 minutes will dry 7014.  Your toaster oven should be able to do that.  I would think that if you stored them in a rod tube or home-made equivalent you wouldn't really need to worry about it, though.

7018 would require a much higher drying temperature.


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## FOMOGO (Jul 11, 2022)

One of the joys of living in the high desert country. I have rod that's been sitting out in 50lb open metal containers for 20yrs, and it runs just fine. Mike


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## pontiac428 (Jul 11, 2022)

homebrewed said:


> I didn't get any 70XX rod to try because it's been my impression that it's sensitive to moisture.  Living in western Oregon we tend to get a lot of that there moisture.  I see you live in Bremerton so you know exactly what I'm talking about.


Good stuff!  I can be a farm boy too, when the wife requires it.  The rest of the time I try to be practical!  And if not practical, at least I have fun.

Yep, I'm surrounded by salt water in all directions save for a land bridge to the south, and my shop sits at 30' above mean sea level.  I specifically said 7014, because it does not have storage issues.  7016 would require a drying oven and causes headaches because of it.  Both of these rods have low splatter, smooth arc, shiny pretty beads, and slag that falls off on its own.  Good for all positions, too.  Like I said, you can learn to weld with a splattery cantankerous rod, or use a well-mannered rod.  The kinder rod will allow you to see your work and correct your mistakes while you learn how to get the techniques down.  Then, when you are ready for the real crud, you will already be doing the right thing and can chase other known issues to get better performance from 60xx coat hanger rods or what have you.

Edit:  I miss Nevada.  No rust, no hydrated welding rod, no mud, no teeth.


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## homebrewed (Jul 11, 2022)

Abrasive said:


> 70xx are not inherently more (or less) sensitive to moisture.  The 70 refers to the 70ksi tensile strength of the deposited metal.
> 
> (You're probably thinking of low-hydrogen rods like 7018 and 7028.  XXX8, XXX5 and XXX6 are low-hydrogen rods.)
> 
> ...


As a kid I lived in SW Colorado and NW New Mexico on the high desert.  No humidity problems there, either.  Everyone had whole-house swamp coolers for the summer and appreciated a little higher RH.

My little oven is supposed to get up to 500F so not a problem unless the flux coating melts .


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## Abrasive (Jul 11, 2022)

homebrewed said:


> As a kid I lived in SW Colorado and NW New Mexico on the high desert.  No humidity problems there, either.  Everyone had whole-house swamp coolers for the summer and appreciated a little higher RH.
> 
> My little oven is supposed to get up to 500F so not a problem unless the flux coating melts .



The flux happily sits there 1/4" from a 6K-8K F welding arc without burning off, so I think it'll be OK.


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## Janderso (Jul 11, 2022)

homebrewed said:


> My wife Lisa said she married me because I _wasn't_ a farmer.  Then she started turning me into one (I didn't protest overmuch) .  Learning to weld is just part of that progression!  Once I get somewhat proficient, one of the first things I want to make is a set of forks to attach to the front loader.  They look like they could be handy for all sorts of things.  And Lisa has pointed out some trellis designs I "should look at".....
> 
> I didn't get any 70XX rod to try because it's been my impression that it's sensitive to moisture.  Living in western Oregon we tend to get a lot of that there moisture.  I see you live in Bremerton so you know exactly what I'm talking about.
> 
> I have a toaster oven I bought specifically for tempering home-made springs and  hardened alloy steel.  Is it OK to dry rod out in an oven heated to ~200F or so, then use it to weld?  If so, I'll add 7014 to my library.


The last few weeks My wife and I stayed in Amboy, near Woodland and Fort Stevens, Seaside. 
Man, what beautiful country.
The vivid green growth, healthy trees and crisp clean air, wild flowers galore.
I know you pay for that with drizzle and rain but we Northern Californians sure did enjoy it.
I want to go back.
Around Roseburg it started to dry out heading south.


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## General Zod (Jul 13, 2022)

markba633csi said:


> Not sure if this rule applies to dc but for ac the thickness of the rod dictates the current
> for example 1/8" rod = 0.125" = 125 amps approximately
> When you master the art of welding you'll feel like a bunny flying first class with a bow tie:



That rule works very well for non-cellulosic electrodes.

For cellulosic electrodes, from my previous use:

3/32" 6010/11 usually work from 40-80A on DCEP, 6011 about 5A higher if on AC.
1/8" 6010/11 usually work well from 50-100 on DCEP, 6011 about 5-10A higher if on AC.

For other basic/rutile electrodes, ~1A per 0.001" of rod diameter then works very well.


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