# G0602 Cross Slide / Compound Dial Conflict



## HBilly1022 (Feb 22, 2016)

I've got a King 1022 which is a rebranded G0602 and find there is a conflict between the compound and cross slide dials when using shallow compound angles, like 0* - 5*. The compound dial hits the cross slide dial and prevents me from turning the compound in and out. I've tried mounting the tool back further and pushing the compound forward and mounting the tool out further and bringing the compound back further but can't seem to find a spot that works.

Does anyone have a solution to this issue?

*Correction*: the conflict angle is when the compound is anywhere near *90*.* I'll take a pic if that helps.


----------



## ch2co (Feb 23, 2016)

Pictures always help

CHuck the grumpy old guy


----------



## HBilly1022 (Feb 24, 2016)

OK, here's a pic showing the problem. If my King is in fact the same as the Grizzly G0602, there must be a fix for this, since there are so many G0602 owners around with numerous posts about improvements. For the  last project I ended up taking the handles off the dial wheel and that gave me just enough room to complete the work.


----------



## kizmit99 (Feb 24, 2016)

I believe mine (a G0602) does the same thing.  It's never been a problem for me though, I usually keep the compound sitting at about 30 degrees.
I'll try to remember to check for sure the next time I get up to the shop...  (which might not be until the weekend).


----------



## ch2co (Feb 25, 2016)

OK,  I finally got a chance to look at my G0602 and yes, I CAN get the compound handle to run into my cross slide handle, but it never has
become an issue for me. When I look at the photo you sent, it shows the compound oriented in line to the cross slide. I can't 
understand what you would want this configuration for. I always have used my compound at some angle to the cross slide,  quit often at 90 
degrees to it. You probably have a good reason for using the lathe in this configuration, but I can't understand what for.

 What are you trying to do with the lathe in this configuration?

I guess that you could remove the handles on the compound  to gain more
back travel without running into the cross slide, this would give you  little bit more travel until it becomes a problem and then you could 
remove the cross side handle for even more clearance. It would be a real pain in the **** to use it this way though. 

 CHuck the grumpy old guy


----------



## HBilly1022 (Feb 26, 2016)

I ran into this issue when I was trying to sharpen end mills in the lathe, using a pencil die grinder. I saw a youtube video where a guy attached the pencil grinder to the tool post and set the compound at 88* so he could put a back relief on the cutting edge of the mill end. I tried it and it looks like it will work if I get a better grinder but it's a PITA to have to remove the handles or wheel to perform this operation. I'm thinking that if I do this enough, I may make and extension of some sort to bolt onto the end of the compound, or I'll have to figure out some other way of doing it.

Here's a link to the video:


----------



## HBilly1022 (Mar 3, 2016)

I came up with a solution for my problem. I made a tool holder and arbor that would extend the grinding wheel forward enough that I could pull the compound slide back far enough to avoid the cross slide wheel conflict.

Here is a pic of the tool holder with grinder installed. The second pic is of the 5/8" mill end that I ground with it.






The first time I ground the mill end I just had the primary grind angle all the way across the bit, with no secondary angle. That worked fine for about 1 minute when I used it. Back to the internet and some more reading. I discovered the secondary angle was required. So I reground it and added the secondary angle, by eye, and that made a huge difference. I was able to use the mill end for a lot more cutting before it got dull. The pic looks like the grind is very rough but in real life it looks and feels much smoother. In any case it is a lot better than throwing the mill end out or having to buy a new one.

I'm a newbie at milling and I'm sure as I get more experience with milling and sharpening I will get better at both.

I'm much happier though, knowing that I can regrind the end mills after I dull them. Life is getting better.

_Edit_. I forgot to mention; the aluminum tool holder is REALLY homemade, since I melted down scrap aluminum and formed it into an ingot and used that to make the tool holder. I considered trying to mold the thing but I already had an ingot that was about the right overall size, so I figured I would just machine it instead.


----------



## Ben Nevis (Mar 3, 2016)

Looks like a good solution to the problem. I assume you are covering the ways with something while grinding, and removed it for clarity in the pics. If not, that grinding grit will eat your ways for breakfast.


----------



## RJSakowski (Mar 3, 2016)

I checked my 602 and it is the same. I can see where you might want to cut a bevel on the face of a part where you would need to set an angle close to 90º.  The 602 will have compromised travel for angle set within 12.5º of 90º.  My Atlas 6 x 18 has the same problem and I suspect many other lathes will as well.   There will be a compromise between convenient crank diameters, range of tool height, and available compound angles, most likely an issue with smaller lathes rather than large.

A workaround could be to rotate the compound 180º although it puts the compound crank at an awkward  and possibly unsafe position, depending upon what you are doing.  I machined a secondary location for the compound at the back of the cross feed table so I have the option of working from the backside of the lathe.  As mentioned above, the cross feed crank could be removed to give you the clearance needed although it would be a PITA to have to do this.  If there is a need to use compound angles in that range very often, a new cross feed crank could be made which reduced the diameter or extended the distance from the apron.


----------



## HBilly1022 (Mar 3, 2016)

Ben, thanks for pointing that out. The first time I ground the mill ends I didn't have the ways covered and as soon as I moved the saddle I seen all of the grinding dust on the ways. It was immediately cleaned up and the next time the ways got covered. Hopefully I won't forget that again.

RJ, I understand the issue of the wheel conflict and that it would be more prevalent on smaller machines, that have limited swing to work with. There's a guy on youtube that calls himself "xynudu" that has what he calls a "cheap chinese lathe" and that is where I got the idea for the lathe grinding setup. His small lathe doesn't have this conflict and I can't tell from his videos what is different about his setup. I'm going to take another look at his videos to see if I can spot the difference. I have considered making smaller wheels but don't think I would be happy with that. They are small enough already. In any case I don't envision using the compound on those angles, other than for this grinding set up and I now have that solved. If I do run into another project that results in the same problem I will have to come up with a more universal solution.


----------



## tmarks11 (Mar 3, 2016)

Make sure you put some rubber mat or vinyl down to protect your bed ways.  Grinding dust will get everywhere and is a quick way to turn a new lathe into a very old lathe.


----------



## HBilly1022 (Mar 4, 2016)

tmarks11 said:


> Make sure you put some rubber mat or vinyl down to protect your bed ways.  Grinding dust will get everywhere and is a quick way to turn a new lathe into a very old lathe.



Great point! After the first incident I placed shop rags over the ways before my next grinding episode and to my dismay, when I lifted the rags there was still grinding dust on the ways.  It must somehow get through the fabric. Now I need to cut some plastic to fit over the ways and compound slide.


----------



## Steve Shannon (Mar 4, 2016)

Aluminum foil works well also. Unfortunately it's possible for grinding wheel dust to embed itself into the metal if the ways are not protected. 


 Steve Shannon, P.E.


----------



## stupoty (Mar 4, 2016)

HBilly1022 said:


> Great point! After the first incident I placed shop rags over the ways before my next grinding episode and to my dismay, when I lifted the rags there was still grinding dust on the ways.  It must somehow get through the fabric. Now I need to cut some plastic to fit over the ways and compound slide.



I try and use oily rags as the dust sticks to them quite well, also i have a couple of pieces of thin ply that i use.  The dust can be carefully lifted away with the ply wood.

I only do light emery cloth type abraisivs though.  When i do drop the grinding dust every where  i flood it off with wd40 and re oil hevily as soon as possible.

Stuart


----------



## HBilly1022 (Mar 4, 2016)

Steve; are you saying that even if the ways are cleaned right after grinding, the dust will still cause damage? That kind of makes sense though, as I've noticed there is always a blackish smear on the ways after I did a bunch of grinding in the shop about a month ago. I did cover the whole lathe with a sheet but maybe that wasn't good enough. My saving grace could be that I don't use the lathe a lot and I'm not young ........ so the lathe should still outlast me.

Stupoty; thanks for the tip, after dinner I'm heading back to the shop to flood the ways and give them a _super_ cleaning, before re oiling.


----------



## Steve Shannon (Mar 5, 2016)

I think that as long as you clean them before running anything along the ways you might be okay, but it's possible to smear the dust into the surface where it will embed itself. I would do everything I could to prevent having the dust anywhere around my lathes, because it is small enough to make its way into places you don't want. If I did grind on a lathe I would tightly cover everything I could with non-porous materials, such as Saran Wrap or aluminum foil.
If you're grinding on a separate machine nearby a sheet should be fine, but if you're finding grinding dust on nearby surfaces you ought to be worried about your lungs, too. 

 Steve Shannon


----------



## HBilly1022 (Mar 5, 2016)

Thanks Steve. That black grit was everywhere in my shop. After completing my anvil build, the cause of all the grinding, I ended up going over every horizontal surface in the shop with rags and my shop vac. What a mess. I will never do any more extensive grinding in the shop. From now on it will have to be outside. I did wear a protective mask for some of the grinding but I'm sure it wasn't often enough. Live and learn.


----------



## Steve Shannon (Mar 6, 2016)

One good thing is that the human nose is pretty good at filtering and human lungs are pretty good at ejecting dust and renewing their interior surfaces.


 Steve Shannon, P.E.


----------

