# Rumley Oil Pull 1911 30-60 Model Tractor (My way)



## rdean (Dec 12, 2020)

It has been about 10 days since I finished my last project the Flat Twin engine so I need to start another.
The Rumley Oil Pull was a tractor that I have always been interested in as it competed with the steam tractors of its day.  The 30-60 was a huge machine that ran on kerosene with water injection and was cooled by oil not water.




There is a wealth of information on the net about the Rumley company if you are interested in the details.  
My model won't be an exact reproduction of the tractor but should hopefully kind of look like the real thing.
I started by trying my hand at making the wheels.  The front ones have 8 spokes and the rear have 16 spokes each.  They turned out so well that it gave me encouragement to continue.




I didn't take many pictures at first  but I made the frame from 1" X 1/2" channel iron.  
The corners are bolted to 3/4" X 3/4" angle iron with 4-40 screws and I didn't break a single tap.
To power the tractor I chose the David Kerzel hit-miss engine I had built a few months back.









More to come.

Thanks for looking
Ray


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## rdean (Dec 13, 2020)

The front wheels were just too small for my liking so I added an aluminum ring to the rims.  Now they are more in proportion to the rest of the tractor.  I had not planned on adding cleats to the rear wheels but the smooth rim didn't have much traction and easily slid around the work bench so I needed something.  I found this rubber material at Harbor Freight with a stick-on backing and cut some strips for the rear wheels.  The adhesive was not up to the task to say the least so on to try number 2.  I super glued the strips to the wheel which worked a little better but not a whole lot.  Third try I cleaned off the mess and applied contact cement but I probably didn't let it dry enough before I put the strips on the rim so that was a failure too.  Fourth try and I hope the last as it was quite a job to clean the contact cement off the rim was to apply some E6000 industrial cement.  I have wrapped electrical tape around the tires to maintain  pressure on them until the cement cures.  It says 24 hours to set and 72 hours for full cure but if it works it is worth it. I will know tomorrow when I remove the tape.




Made the front axle from 3/16" square steel and the post from 1/2" square steel. 
It swivels in the middle for uneven terrain.  



I just had to paint the frame and front axle.




Made the rear axle mounts from 1/2" brass bolted to the frame.




I had painted the wheels red yesterday and I just had to see what it would look like together.




Note the electrical tape on the rear wheels.




So what do you think so far?

It does look kind of like Christmas colors.

Thanks for looking 
Ray


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## Chris Hamel (Dec 13, 2020)

Looking good


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## hman (Dec 13, 2020)

I hope the rubber mat works for you!  Once secured, it should look very good and work well.


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## DavidR8 (Dec 13, 2020)

Way back in the mid ‘30s, my dad worked on a threshing crew on the Alberta prairies. 
He told me stories of the huge Rumley tractor that powered the thresher. 
Thanks for the trip down memory lane!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rdean (Dec 14, 2020)

I just discovered that I am spelling the name wrong how embarrassing. 
The name is Rumely not Rumley so that may make it easier to find information on the company.
Well since my tractor is kind of like the Rumely then I can kind of like spell it differently too.   I will in the future adhere to the correct spelling.

David I did work on a threshing crew one time when I was younger.  A neighbors daughter had just died from polio so my father and I and many of the surrounding neighbors got together and harvested the oats for them.  It was all done in one day with a threshing machine powered by a John Deere tractor but not a Rumely.  

Ray


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## rdean (Dec 14, 2020)

I mounted the engine where I think I want it but until I get a gear reducer I won't know for sure.  Bent some sheet metal to make a front radiator housing, painted and installed.  There won't be a radiator on my version but it is a good place to put the ignition module and other wiring.






hman, I removed the tape from the rear wheels and the tread is holding on very well for now but time will tell.








Thanks for looking
Ray


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## Tozguy (Dec 14, 2020)

Looks like fun, nice work.


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## rdean (Dec 15, 2020)

I printed this on paper, cut it out and glued it to a piece of sheet metal.  With a tin snips I cut around the outer line, the other lines are bend lines.  There were some other corner cuts and a lot of fitting but this is how it turned out.







I put in a couple of pop rivets and painted it.
Here it is installed.



And a rear view.



I also installed the battery holder that has a built in Off/On switch under the front part of the frame.




The spark plug wire was not long enough so I added about 2" to it.




The ignition system is now all hooked up and working fine.   If I would attach a gas tank  I could run the engine now.  I want to make a new gas tank for this tractor but that has to wait until I am further along with the build.

Thanks for looking
Ray


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## rdean (Dec 17, 2020)

The front wheels were looking kind of bare so I added some rubber to them.  The rubber is from a vacuum cleaner drive belt that was cut and glued to the wheel.  This time the E6000 adhesive did not stick to the rubber like it did on the rear wheels.  I ended up using super glue on the front wheels and it worked fine.  Must be the differences in the rubber makeup. 



I made a wood frame of maple for the tractor roof and covered it with a painted piece of aluminum sheet.  Don't know why I didn't take any pictures of the frame but I just didn't.  I used 3/16" round rod for the roof posts and they are in glued into the wood frame.  The bottom end of the posts are slipped into holes in tractor frame and the whole unit just lifts up for removal. 




Comments welcome
What do you think?

Thanks for looking
Ray


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## Boswell (Dec 17, 2020)

this looks fantastic.  Great job on the build.


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## Chris Hamel (Dec 18, 2020)

Like the roof.


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## rdean (Dec 18, 2020)

Thanks for the replies and likes.

The gear reducer is the subject of this episode. 
Three different gear reducers were ordered or I should say gear motors as they have D/C motors attached to them.  None of the listings have the gear ratio information so it was really a crap shoot to choose which to buy.  They weren't expensive at around $10 each so I didn't feel to bad about cutting them open.  The first one was delivered a couple of days back and that is it in the lathe.


In order to determine the gear ratio I cut the case apart so I could get to the armature.  This actually worked quite well with no internal damage to the motor.  The gear ratio turned out to be 25 to 1 and would be much too fast for the tractor as I had calculated somewhere around 250 to 1.

The second gear motor is shown below and was of much sturdier build.  




Here are the dimensions of motor #2.




I cut this motor apart much like I had done to the first one and discovered it had a gear ratio of 450 to 1.  Not where I wanted to be but thought it would be easier to speed up the input shaft than try to slow it down.  This gear box has promise so I went to work.
Dismantling the armature was easier than expected after the copper windings were removed.  The armature plates could be removed one at a time after they were separated from each other and the armature gear came off fairly easily as it was pressed on to the shaft.

The aluminum piece on the upper left side was made for the new output shaft that is at the center lower of the picture.  This shaft was drilled for the original armature shaft to fit into and loctite in place. 




After many trial fittings, cutting, drilling and adjustments this is the result.



I made the input end longer so it would fit better into the tractor frame.
The input shaft turns smoothly with just 0.100 end play and the gear box still works.
This will probably be the gear box I will use for the tractor as gear motor #3 is lost in shipping.

Thanks for looking

Ray


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## Papa Charlie (Dec 18, 2020)

Once again, some amazing work.

I just happened to be watching several YouTube videos of restored steam tractors. Amazing to see them in action. By no means a one man show. Some were demonstrating the plowing. The plow they were pulling in this one episode had 7 blades, each was controlled by a long lever that several workers would raise and lower as they started and ended a row. Most had two people just to feed and drive the tractor. I would assume the tractors in the show had more people on them than would have been in practice but talk about a OSHA nightmare.


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## rdean (Dec 18, 2020)

This is a short video of 5 Rumelys pulling a 66 bottom plow.
I believe it was filmed in Canada.






Ray


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## hman (Dec 18, 2020)

Hmmmm ... I saw a US flag on the plow (near the end of the video).  Very interesting, in any case.  Thanks!


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## Papa Charlie (Dec 19, 2020)

That is cool, these tractor meets bring people from both sides of the border.
If you didn't have to make a turn, you could plow a field in short order with that setup. But can you imagine trying to swing that setup around for a return pass. Would take as long or longer than it did to make the pass.
'
Hey, that could be your next project, you could build the plow that goes behind the steam tractor. That would keep you buys for some time.


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## rdean (Dec 20, 2020)

This shows the under side of the frame and the cutout I made for the gear reducer.  The reducer is attached with two 6/32 screws and the other end of it fits through a hole in the frame.




And here it is right side up.




The input side of the gear box got a 3/4" pulley and the engine crankshaft got a 1" pulley  but I didn't get a picture of it.
This will increase the RPMs to the gear box but I really don't know if that will be enough.   I think it will move around 8' per minute but that seems a little slow to me.  It won't be a big deal to change the overall gear ratio if that needs to be done but I don't know how much power the little engine actually has.  Time will tell.




There will be a 3/16" diameter rubber o-ring long enough to connect the pulleys on both the input and output sides of the gear reducer.  
The output of the gear box and the rear axle each received a pulley with an o-ring drive belt.




Thanks for looking
Ray


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## rdean (Dec 22, 2020)

Tractor's first steps






I was worried that the little engine would not have enough power to pull itself around but that will not be a problem.  The final drive band is too flexible and causes the tractor to stumble along.  A heavier band will be installed.

Now that I know it will move I am going to make some other changes before proceeding.  I moved the ignition module to under the engine and made a plate to cover it.





I didn't like the front radiator tower as it was not wide enough and it needed to be a little taller so that is next on the list.  

Thanks for looking
Ray


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## rdean (Dec 28, 2020)

This is cooling tower #2.



I like it better than the first one but not really satisfied yet.
What do you think?

Thanks for looking
Ray


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## rdean (Dec 31, 2020)

Well I made another cooling tower and gave it a fancy top this is the final version. 
 I made two exhaust pipes that run into the cooling tower but they are just for looks they don't function.



Made mounts for the gas tank.
The drivers cab and fenders were fabricated and the roof was lowered slightly.




Installed the steering chains back to a manually adjustable arm for now. Maybe something different later.




Thanks for looking

Ray


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## hman (Dec 31, 2020)

Looks absolutely great!  Were you able to find/install a better band to drive the wheels?


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## rdean (Dec 31, 2020)

I thought I had found a better belt but not good enough.






That just won't do so the next step is a gear final drive.

Thanks for looking

Ray


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## rdean (Jan 4, 2021)

The final drive is going to have to be gears.  The rubber o-rings are just not up to the task.  
I have a set of M.7 gear cutters that I haven't used yet so away we go.

I was so proud of these two gears they fit perfectly and with just the right amount of backlash.



My joy didn't last too long though because when I put the wheel back on and started the engine it went the wrong direction.  The tractor was now in permanent reverse.

Now I knew better and had discussed this very situation with my friend when I ordered the gear boxes as we didn't know which way the output shaft would turn.  

This shows the final gear drive train after making two more gears.



And here is a video of the tractor on the bench.






Thanks for looking
Ray


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## rdean (Jan 12, 2021)

This is a video of the tractor out in the grass with the new gear train.





Shortly after this video was taken I started having problems with the engine not running right so I took it completely apart for a rebuild.
I shortened the overall piston length so it and the connecting rod could be removed without removing the crank shaft. 
The connecting rod piston end was too loose and getting looser so a new connecting rod was in order.
I also increased the compression ratio from 5 to 6 for easier starting and more power.
The original carburetor was a mixture of parts from a model airplane engine and parts I made but was very touchy and hard to adjust. I made a new one like I have on my other hit-miss engines.
I noticed the intake valve guide inside hole was drilled off center and not a very good fit to the valve stem.  This could affect the fuel air ratio as air could be sucked in around the valve stem and not through the carb.  A new valve guide and valve were installed.
The hall sensor was not securely attached and was at risk of catching on the magnet so this was secured.
The shrink tubing on the end of the spark plug wire was too long as it didn't allow the wire to come into contact with the spark plug.

In short it was a wonder that the engine ran at all.
Most of the repairs were my own fault as this was my first engine build and didn't know any better.
Engine starts and runs very reliably now.

I bought some decals to finish off the project.






Thanks to everyone who followed the thread and the comments were much appreciated.

Now what to build next?
Ray


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## Boswell (Jan 12, 2021)

Awesome build !


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## Reimemanua (May 13, 2021)

I really like this model. Is it all made of metal only? What paint did you use? and what aspect ratio did you choose for this model?
I had almost the same one in full size, the real one. But it was very old and I sold it for good money as an antique. Then I bought myself a new compact tractor from https://www.heming-engineering.co.uk/tractors-and-machinery/rotary-and-flail-mowers and I'm glad of it.
I like such crafts and I would like to try to create something similar myself. I would love to have such a hobby, but I don't really know how to do anything with my own hands. So I only have to watch other people make such beautiful things with their own hands!


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## rdean (May 13, 2021)

I used the "That looks about right" aspect ratio so no mystery here.  The paint was from a spray can from the hardware store.
The way to learn any hobby is to start with something simple and work your way up to your expectations.  

Ray


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