# What Can Free Up Seized Steel Roller Bearings



## SE18 (Oct 5, 2016)

I've been told by a railroad restorer to use liberal amounts of kroil. I'm building a 2' gauge railroad and have several kiln cars that were left out in the elements for decades without movement or lubrication. The rollers are seized and wheels won't turn. Before taking the pedestals apart I'm thinking to buy a gallon of kroil.

Just wanted to check here before doing anything.

Thanks


----------



## FLguy (Oct 5, 2016)

SE18 said:


> I've been told by a railroad restorer to use liberal amounts of kroil. I'm building a 2' gauge railroad and have several kiln cars that were left out in the elements for decades without movement or lubrication. The rollers are seized and wheels won't turn. Before taking the pedestals apart I'm thinking to buy a gallon of kroil.
> 
> Just wanted to check here before doing anything.
> 
> Thanks


He's right. Very good stuff.


----------



## Bob Korves (Oct 5, 2016)

I use Kroil and like it very much.  A cheaper substitute is ATF mixed with acetone.  The exact recipe is out there on the web.  It is said to work very well by people I trust, but I have not used it.  I am not excited about the acetone in the mix, which I try to stay away from as much as possible.


----------



## rwm (Oct 5, 2016)

Um.. I have pretty much bathed in Acetone. What is the concern? Especially with gloves and such?
Robert


----------



## Splat (Oct 5, 2016)

Heat. Just went thru this with wheel bearings on friend's truck. They were practically welded on and nothing, not even generous amounts of Kroil, which I love. Kroil has gotten me out of jams numbers of times and I, too, highly recommend it.


----------



## SE18 (Oct 5, 2016)

thanks, so it sounds like  a purchase of Kroil will be good


----------



## Tozguy (Oct 5, 2016)

Bob Korves said:


> I use Kroil and like it very much.  A cheaper substitute is ATF mixed with acetone.  The exact recipe is out there on the web.  It is said to work very well by people I trust, but I have not used it.  I am not excited about the acetone in the mix, which I try to stay away from as much as possible.



I've tried the ATF/acetone mix and was disappointed. The acetone evaporates very quickly and leaves the ATF to work by itself. Definitely not worth the trouble and hazard of working with acetone.


----------



## Tozguy (Oct 5, 2016)

rwm said:


> Um.. I have pretty much bathed in Acetone. What is the concern? Especially with gloves and such?
> Robert



Highly flammable, dissolves paint and many common plastics.
This article mentions the ATF/acetone mix. It also mentions replacing the ATF in the mix with brake fluid. 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetone


----------



## Bob Korves (Oct 5, 2016)

I am afraid that ATF and brake fluid would be too viscous to penetrate well.  To work, any penetrant must first penetrate.

The other thing that works well is time.  People squirt on some magic juice and then start with air hammers, impact wrenches, big hammers, torches, and other big guns -- and often end up with scrap.  Give it plenty of time to work.  Try to move it, both directions, with energy below the yield point of anything you care about.  Squirt some more on, and wait again.  Repeat until it starts to move, then success will certainly follow.  It usually took decades to get stuck, and it can usually wait a few days or weeks to loosen up.  Patience, grasshopper...


----------



## brino (Oct 5, 2016)

I am a believer in the 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Yes it does take some time to work. I usually start applying the mix long before the dismantle is attempted. Give it a coat or two a day for a couple weeks, then by the time you tackle it it is possible.

And yes @Tozguy is correct that the acetone evaporates very quickly, but the thinness and wet-ability are part of the benefits - that's what makes it penetrate - it really helps it wick the hydraulic oil (ATF) into even the smallest of cracks. I would swear it even wicks uphill!

The biggest problems I see with it are:
-it's likely bad for the eyes; wear your protection, and
-I like to use veterinary syringes (just the plastic body not the actual needle!) to apply the stuff, but it swells the rubber so I gotta spend another $1 for a new one.

Better yet, since you have a number of units to do, try a kroil vs. ATF/acetone competition and share your results here!

-brino


----------



## jpfabricator (Oct 5, 2016)

I have used ATF and paint thinner. The thinning agent is just to make the ATF penetrate faster. I have also used the heat and beat method to knock most scale loose, when the part has cooled enough to not ignite the penetrating mix (whatever you may choose) then apply liberally. 

Sent from somwhere in east Texas by Jake!


----------



## tq60 (Oct 5, 2016)

Just paint thinner with nothing.

It is very thin oil.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk


----------



## Billh50 (Oct 6, 2016)

I use Kroil. I usually put it on the night before and then again in the morning before I have my coffee. By the time I finish my coffee it has usually done it's work. If it hasn't a little heat finishes the job.


----------



## Joncooey (Oct 6, 2016)

Up here in Canada I use KP53 made by Krown Rustproofing.  I work on a lot of snowmobiles from the 60's and 70's (Eh), with a lot of dissimilar metal applications (Steel/Aluminum) and that stuff has worked some pretty big miracles for me.  Might be worth looking into.

  Jon.


----------



## SE18 (Oct 6, 2016)

I ordered a gallon. Guess I'll get a squirt can to get it inside the lube hole of the pedestal. Thanks everyone. Nice back and forth on the topic, very instructive.


----------



## CluelessNewB (Oct 6, 2016)

SE18 said:


> I'll get a squirt can



Make sure you get a good one, Kroil will seep out any tiny leak in your squirt can.   I like the made in USA Goldenrod cans from Dutton-Lainson.   I have nothing good to say about the cheapies from the big box stores, so I won't say anything.  

https://www.dutton-lainson.com/categories.php?cat=31


----------

