# Atlas Mill M1-61 drawings



## Airpirate (Jun 19, 2017)

Id like to make an arbor support part number M1-61 for my MFC Atlas mill. I plan to machine some 4140 steel and think the added support would help accuracy. Thanks


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## CluelessNewB (Jun 19, 2017)

Found it right here on this site!

  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/atlas-m1-61-arbor-support-bar-pdf.1486/

Edited 6/20/2017 Updated link to point to new location


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## Airpirate (Jun 19, 2017)

Thank you very much. I searched this site quite a while with no luck. How did you find it?


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## CluelessNewB (Jun 19, 2017)

Rudy Kouhoupt also wrote a few articles in "The Home Shop Machinist" called "An Atlas Mill Update".   Part 1 was published in the July/August 2001 issue.  It has diagrams and instructions for making one.  It doesn't appear that back issues that old are still available.  It may be contained in one of the collections but I'm not sure.  You may want to try your local library.


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## CluelessNewB (Jun 19, 2017)

Airpirate said:


> Thank you very much. I searched this site quite a while with no luck. How did you find it?



Never give up  

I believe it was on the last page of Atlas documents.


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## Airpirate (Jun 19, 2017)

What type steel would be best to make this from?


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## wa5cab (Jun 20, 2017)

The original M1-61 Support Bar was made in one piece of cast iron.  After the two clamping screw holes were drilled, reamed and tapped, the saddle bar was sawed off with a 1/8" thick slitting saw.

Comments on using or looking for anything in Downloads - 

First, read the instructions in the Sticky Area at the top of this forum.

Because the Xenforo RESOURCES module, which was modified by the List Owner for use as a file DOWNLOADS module, has absolutely no sort capability, and the fact that there are nearly 2000 files currently in the system, and about 10% are Atlas, I created a lot of Categories (Folders or Directories and Sub-Directories) and in most cases was able in the lowest sub-directories to limit the page counts to 1.  So you should never have to search more than one page of files.  But before you start looking at file names in the right pane, first drill down to the lowest sub-directory or folder or category.  Which in the current case is Atlas Mill Drawings.

I apologize for forgetting to put the Atlas part number (M1-61) into the Title.  I just fixed that.  And I also somehow on the same day uploaded two copies of the same drawing.  I just fixed that, too.

Finally, if your mill wasn't originally a "C" model (MFC, etc.), there are three other parts (M1-60. M1-66 and M1-67) that you will have to make before you can use the support bar.  I have the factory drawings for those and will upload them in a day or two.  The reason that I haven't already is probably because when I got the drawings from Clausing, the M1-61 drawing was absolutely terrible.  And I got bogged down in trying to clean it up, got tired of working on it for a while, and forgot to upload the other drawings.

I don't know who drew the drawing that is in Downloads.  I have not checked his dimensions against the factory drawing because at the moment, they are illegible.


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## CluelessNewB (Jun 20, 2017)

Airpirate said:


> What type steel would be best to make this from?



Rudy Kouhoupt doesn't specify the type of steel used he just says "steel".   He used a 0.25" thick x 1.5" wide bar for the slotted section and a 0.75" x 2.5" for the clamping part.


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## Silverbullet (Jun 20, 2017)

I have a question , would 1" x 3" x 16" aluminum bar work . If left a bit thicker say 3/4" on the top slotted part be strong enough? Just asking I need to or want to build one for mine . If I ever get fixed up by drs. 1" x 3" cast iron my be hard to come by. 
One on eBay selling price $335.00 just for that support bar . But there hard to find I guess .


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## Airpirate (Jun 20, 2017)

There is a guy who makes accessories for the atlas at mymachineshop.net who sells one for 199.00 but since you have a machine and a couple threads up there is a drawing whay not make one from medium or low carbons steel stock. I also bought a arbor and draw in bar from mymachineshop.net fair prices.
Aluminum might work but the attachment points might tend to wear in. Maybe T3 or T4 might work.


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## Silverbullet (Jun 20, 2017)

Airpirate said:


> There is a guy who makes accessories for the atlas at mymachineshop.net who sells one for 199.00 but since you have a machine and a couple threads up there is a drawing whay not make one from medium or low carbons steel stock. I also bought a arbor and draw in bar from mymachineshop.net fair prices.
> Aluminum might work but the attachment points might tend to wear in. Maybe T3 or T4 might work.


I figured on using thin brass washers on the top so it wouldn't  drag , I think ill try it , got nothing to lose but time and a piece of aluminum . I plan on machining about  a thirty degree angle an inch in on the top end , front and back may be enough to give it the boss effect. Try to make it look like it belongs with the mill.


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## Airpirate (Jun 21, 2017)

That ought to work fine. Shoot me a photo when you're done and let me know how it works.


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## wa5cab (Jun 23, 2017)

I would use steel.  Aluminum, regardless of the alloy or the temper, is just too easy to damage.


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## Airpirate (Jun 23, 2017)

wa5cab said:


> I would use steel.  Aluminum, regardless of the alloy or the temper, is just too easy to damage.


Do you think low carbon steel would be adequate for the job?


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## Silverbullet (Jun 23, 2017)

wa5cab said:


> I would use steel.  Aluminum, regardless of the alloy or the temper, is just too easy to damage.


I wouldn't use aluminum in a car engine either , but millions are running every day. Not much damage can be done to a part that only rides up and down with no working pressure. Any gulling that could happen would be protected by the brass thrust washers on the overarm support. Anyway if I can get the metal and my spine surgery over it won't be soon that's for sure. I'm on a no spending freeze for now , only the best deal will get consideration.


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## wa5cab (Jun 25, 2017)

Carbon steel would be fine.  And easier to get in the correct starting size than cast iron.  The reason that Atlas used cast iron is because it was a cast part.

My fifth Land Rover had an aluminum block 4.0 litre Petrol V8.  After 17 years, it was still running OK.  But I didn't take it apart several times a month, either.


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## Airpirate (Jun 25, 2017)

wa5cab said:


> Carbon steel would be fine.  And easier to get in the correct starting size than cast iron.  The reason that Atlas used cast iron is because it was a cast part.
> 
> My fifth Land Rover had an aluminum block 4.0 litre Petrol V8.  After 17 years, it was still running OK.  But I didn't take it apart several times a month, either.


Thanks, I will go that direction.


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## wa5cab (Jun 26, 2017)

Drawings for the M1-66 Cross Slide Screw and M1-67 Bearing were just uploaded.  These are two of the four parts required in order to install the M1-61 Arbor Support Bar on a B model or earlier.  Drawing for M1-60 and reverse engineered drawing for M1-61 were already in DOWNLOADS.


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## wa5cab (Jun 30, 2017)

In case anyone missed it, installing the M1-61 Arbor Support bar on a B or earlier model requires three additional parts.  M1-60 Arbor Support in place of M1-8. M1-66 Cross Slide Screw in place of M1-36.  And M1-67 Bearing in place of M1-33.


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## Gargoyle-169 (Jun 23, 2019)

Airpirate said:


> .......
> Aluminum might work but the attachment points might tend to wear in. Maybe T3 or T4 might work.



Any aluminum would work for the mechanical lever arm function of the part. The anchor/attachment points would be made durable with washers and a sleeve around each bolt. Visit the small parts bins at your local big box hardware store for same. Cheers.


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