# Question about T Slot hardware



## Dgleavitt (Oct 16, 2017)

I was just given an Atlas mill and after I clean it up I wanted to make some T nuts(I’m cheap so not buying a set) and I noticed I had two of these cast t nut bolts(?) that came with the mill. Are they OK to use in the t slots until I make a few with a little more surface area? See below for the cast bolt.


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## 4GSR (Oct 16, 2017)

Absolutely!  Those are probably old Armstrong or J H Williams brand Tee bolts.  You may find one or two here and there as new old stock or used.  I don't think they are made anymore.


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## Dgleavitt (Oct 16, 2017)

Great, thanks! I remember seeing a W on the bottom so I guess they are Williams.


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## Rob (Oct 16, 2017)

Another thing you can us is square headed bolts.  You just have to turn down the top of the bolt.


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## kd4gij (Oct 16, 2017)

I have used carriage bolts in the past.
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn...Bolts-Assortments/T-Slot-Bolts?navid=12108853


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## KMoffett (Oct 17, 2017)

Never used carriage bolts on the mill, but do use modified ones on the table saw slots.

Ken


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## Alan H. (Oct 18, 2017)

I know you said you want to make them but they are cheaper than you may think.  

I just bought 8 today to fit a 5/8" slot and they cost $3.17 each from McMaster plus shipping.  I was quite surprised and had expected to pay more.  I bought some other hardware with them but I am betting the shipping is 6 or 7 bucks for the whole lot based on my bi monthly purchases from McMaster.


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## Ulma Doctor (Oct 19, 2017)

you can also make the t-nuts out of different, easy to machine materials like aluminum, or 12L14 steel too if you so desired


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## Chipper5783 (Oct 19, 2017)

Yes.  Absolutely make T nuts and T bolts.  For T nuts, make sure you incorporate a thread stop so you reduce the risk of damaging the table.  For regular T nuts, just go buy some, but I like to make up dedicated hold downs for common tooling.  I also find it useful to have some full depth T nuts to get more thread when using standard bolts to hold stuff down (regular T nuts don't usually use the full depth of the slot).  Also, it is handy to have a few T nuts that have smaller threads.

The idea is to develop lots of options for securing items to the table.  A regular hold down kit is a good start, but add to it.


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## KMoffett (Oct 19, 2017)

I would recommend adding several of these.
http://catalog.te-co.com/viewitems/t-slot-nuts/quarter-turn-t-slot-nuts?
I periodically run into a situation were I need a couple more hold-downs, but cant slide a t-nut in from the table end because of the ones already there.  Drop one of these in the slot, screw in the rod or bolt, turn it CW as you tighten, and you're good to go.

Ken


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## Metal (Oct 19, 2017)

Another question: what do you guys use for indicating where to put your vice and such?

I was thinking of making some T-nuts with just a low profile setscrew and a locating hole sort of like the tormach ones, but was wondering if there is a better way.


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## chips&more (Oct 19, 2017)

Just read this post and it has not been mentioned yet. I would be very careful about what you stick into the “T” slot. And I mean size wise. You can damage the T slot in the table with a poor fitting nut/bolt. The previous owner of my Bridgeport used poorly fitting hardware and made a nasty burr on the underside of the table T slots. It wasn’t easy to fix…Dave


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## British Steel (Oct 19, 2017)

I'm with Dave/Chips, I've seen a lot of tee slots with the top broken out, it's one of the saddest sights there is, up with oil-soaked kittens 

I've always taken a hammer and chisel to the bottom of the nut's thread to damage it so the bolt/stud can't pass through and jack the nut up and break the "ears" of the slot, they're supposed to be in compression between the tee nut and the attached vice/work/whatever, cast iron's a lot stronger in compression than tension or shear...

To locate the vice etc. you can slot the bottom faces for a key that's a good close fit in the tee slot, ideally two slots at 90 degrees to allow you to set up with e.g. the jaws parallel with either X or Y, it'll be repeatable if you're careful and get a good/tight fit in the tee slot (when you can clamp the upside-down vice's jaws on the key and hence know they're parallel with the tee slot, then use clamps to hold it down while milling the vice-bottom slot. This assumes the tee slots are really parallel with the X-axis movement, YMMV...)

Dave H. (the other one)


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## British Steel (Oct 19, 2017)

OH, also - when using tee nuts with anything that *doesn't* clamp down on the top of the table (e.g. http://3.imimg.com/data3/CH/ED/MY-2291399/1-250x250.jpg), I run a flanged/washer-and- nut down before the rest of the hardware so the slot's clamped between it and the tee nut - SO FAR (knocks on wood, injures head) I haven't broken a tee slot! Remember that the stud in the tee nut has the sum of the downward forces on work and e.g. step block pulling UP on it! Also, it gives (I think) a more rigid setup.

Dave H. (the other one)


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## Chipper5783 (Oct 19, 2017)

Dave makes a good point about running a nut down to pinch the table top.  I've never done that, and with the components supplied in a regular clamp kit, you cannot.   But it does make sense.  I've never damaged a T-slot, so I suspect the extra measure is not necessary- still a good point to raise.

About the alignment keys under a vise. I don't think they should be a tight fit in the slot.  The edge of the keys should be parallel to the fixed jaw.  Just push the vise/keys against the slot and tighten the nuts.  Push it so the cutting direction is pushing th keys against the slot.  I suppose snug keys would hold a little better?  However, when those two good size bolts/studs are tight, it really ought not move.

Another Dave


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## epanzella (Oct 20, 2017)

A quick and dirty way to make larger T slot hardware like found in a compound slide is to just weld 2 hunks of steel together.


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