# Best Dial Test Indictor for the Money



## Leagle

I am posting this thread here because the folks here seem to more represent my philosophy and what I am interested in than other segments.  If I am posting here improperly, please accept my apologies.  I am an attorney and therefore impaired.

I am in the process of building a shop and equipping it with a lathe and milling machine.  Obviously, I am going to need several dial indicators in both 0.0005 and 0.0001 configurations.  I already have several 0.001 indicators.  The prices for dial test indicators are all over the map.  I am of the opinion that you never go wrong by buying quality, but price and name brand do not always indicate quality.  My question is this:

What is the best dial test indicator for the money?

Thanks for your response(s) and I realize that this is a "newbie" question.


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## darkzero

The "best" is arguable and others will have their own opinions/preferences. The "best" DTIs in my book are made by Interapid. Any name brand DTI should serve you well, even an inexpensive import if you take care of it & especially for hobby work. Mitutoyos & Starretts are amongst the most popular but there are other name brands like Browne & Sharpe, Fowler, SPI, etc. Keep in mind that some of these companies have less expensive import versions too. I prefer Mitutoyo which most of my measuring tools are & I'd rather buy a used Mitu than buy a new cheap import when it comes to measuting tools. An Interapid DTI is on my list to get though.

(Moving this to the Metrology section.)


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## Senna

Here is a fantastic rundown of various dial test indicators (DTI) from Long Island Indicator Service.

http://www.longislandindicator.com/p37.html

I'd be looking at a used Compac, Alina (made by Compac), Interapid, or the B&S BestTest line.

Do yourself a favor though and read the link I posted. Ton of great information there.


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## therbig

Agree with Senna on the link - do take a look because the folks at Long Island Indicator work on these day in, day out. 

I have found two very practical differences between DTIs: force required and bezel friction. 

1. Force required. One important difference between DTIs is the force required to deflect the point for measurement.  The reason this matters is that you are exerting a force on the indicator holder as you measure. If your measurement takes a lot of force and your holder has a many bends and elbows to reach where you're measuring, you will deflect not just the point, but the whole indicator as the holding structure flexes.  That will make your measurements inaccurate and not repeatable. 

According to one test I've read, Interapids require about half the force of a Starrett Last Word; imported ones required about 2-3x more than the Starrett or 4-6x more than the Interapid.  That would make Interapid a better choice. 

2. Bezel friction. I have found that the bezels on good indicators turn smoothly and with little effort; friction is just enough to hold the bezel in place securely should you accidentally touch it.

If friction is too much, then you will once again distort the holder as you turn the bezel.  That makes it very frustrating to zero the dial as the needle will always move when you make the adjustment.

I have found my imported indicators to be very difficult to use in this regard.  The bezels turn with a dry and scratchy jerk and afterward the needle is nowhere near where it started.  My Starrett is wonderful: the bezel turns smoothly and with little force.  As I don't have an Interapid, I can't compare - but I would expect their bezels to turn like butter, too 

Tom



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mikey

The other thing to consider is the size of the markings on the face of the DTI. Some quality indicators like Compac have models with larger markings that are easier to see by the unaided and admittedly older eye. I like the Compac 215GA for this reason. It is very smooth, takes very little pressure to move the tip and the dial turns smoothly and easily so it passes Therbig's test!

Most of the top quality DTI's are Swiss-made - Compac, Tesa, B&S, Interapid, Alina. Take a good look at the Mitutoyo line, too - they are quite good. I know some guys feel imports are just as good for the hobby shop and they're probably right but my Compacs and Mitutoyo indicators are just as smooth and accurate as they were 20 years ago so I'm happy with my choices.


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## therbig

mikey said:


> Most of the top quality DTI's are Swiss-made - Compac, Tesa, B&S, Interapid, Alina. Take a good look at the Mitutoyo line, too - they are quite good. I know some guys feel imports are just as good for the hobby shop and they're probably right but my Compacs and Mitutoyo indicators are just as smooth and accurate as they were 20 years ago so I'm happy with my choices.



Great point, *mikey*.  I was sloppy in my choice of words: when I wrote "imports" I actually meant "low-cost Chinese."  

As you point out, Interapid is Swiss and Mitutoyo is Japanese, so they are imports too (unless you live in Switzerland or Japan, respectively  ).  But they are obviously in a completely different class and I consider them of outstanding quality.

Tom


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## samthedog

_*Best*_ is a personal thing. I have Mitutoyo indicators and dial test indicators. I have had no complaints and for the money they are excellent. I have a friend on my street who works in a prototyping lab and has a colleague who is an authorized repairer of most of the big name brands in callipers and indicators. He has said on many occasions that the Mitutoyo indicators are extremely well constructed and that they have very robust mechanisms making them the best bang for buck.

For hobby use I believe that if you buy decent equipment it will likely not wear out. I have had my callipers and indicators for probably 10 years now and they have never missed a beat. I bought mine second hand too so who knows how many years they were in use in the manufacturing shop I purchased them from.

Paul.


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## Senna

Best is a subjective thing and to me the best LOOKING DTI ever made is this sweet Alina.



It's also a good one with the vertical orientation and the long point but the style is fantastic and if I could find more I'd buy them.


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## mikey

therbig said:


> Great point, *mikey*.  I was sloppy in my choice of words: when I wrote "imports" I actually meant "low-cost Chinese."
> 
> As you point out, Interapid is Swiss and Mitutoyo is Japanese, so they are imports too (unless you live in Switzerland or Japan, respectively  ).  But they are obviously in a completely different class and I consider them of outstanding quality.
> 
> Tom



Nah, I knew what you meant, Tom, and agree with you. Its unfortunate that the US doesn't produce the quality that the Swiss and Japanese do. Starrett was good once upon a time and I have an old Last Word that I still like but it is nowhere near the quality of a Compac and that's the truth. Luckily, a top quality Swiss or Japanese DTI can be purchased on eBay for the price of a Chinese import ... may it always be so.


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## Leagle

Thank you for all the good advice.


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## schor

I lucked out when I bought a bunch of tools for $175 and got a Compac .0005 test indicator in the deal. Deals do come up sometimes, you just need to keep looking and jump on them quick.


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## Senna

mikey said:


> Nah, I knew what you meant, Tom, and agree with you. Its unfortunate that the US doesn't produce the quality that the Swiss and Japanese do. Starrett was good once upon a time and I have an old Last Word that I still like but it is nowhere near the quality of a Compac and that's the truth. *Luckily, a top quality Swiss or Japanese DTI can be purchased on eBay for the price of a Chinese import .*.. may it always be so.



Yep and I'll take a old and used Compac over any of the Chinese imports every single time.

When I was calibrating a ton of instruments as part of an ISO9001 compliance regimen what I noticed about DTI's is that the people with the Swiss DTI's treated them with the utmost care and respect while those with the cheap China ones beat the snot out those.


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## mikey

Senna said:


> Yep and I'll take a old and used Compac over any of the Chinese imports every single time.



I with you, Senna, and I agree that Alina of yours sure is pretty!

Speaking of used and deals, I would so jump on this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Compac-0005...568?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a8c77c4c8


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## ericc

The best dial test indicator for the money is the one you buy at a garage sale for a great price.  Unfortunately, this is probably not when you need it.  I have 3 indicators:

1.  Harbor Freight bought new for $10
2.  Federal 0.0001 bought at garage sale for $5
3.  Starrett last word dial test indicator w/Starrett magnetic base at estate sale for $15

The last was the best deal.  The first was bought because of need.  I would have never bought it if I had the other two, but it works a lot better than no indicator.


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## toag

I bought a cheap import DTI once... joke was on me :jester:.
even for hobby use they are too cheap and flimsy.  Look on ebay for a interapid, or brown and sharpe.  both are solid and top notch.  I have 2 interapids now, and a giodtast, B&S, and a compac, and the are all very good, I would recommend any of those, with the interapid best n show, and the B&S second.
Also I mentioned before, if it is just for tramming, look for a metric one, they are 1/2as much or less usually.


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## eightball

Ive got a b&s bestest that was used when i got it 28 years ago. Still works perfect. About 5 years when one of the older machinist was retiring, He told me to pick out a tool to remember him by. When i was looking through his box i came across a bestest that was sill wrapped up in the celophane inside the original box. This thing must be 40 years old and he never used it, lol. I keep it back for my spare just incase something happens to the one ive been using all the years. I thought about getting an interapid. I've never used one but everyone seems to swear by them. I honestly can't see the point when my bestest has seved me so well.  Both my bestest are .0005 and are the white faced ones. Tony seems to prefer the black face ones if im not mistaken. Hey both of mine were free. Couldn't be any happier!


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## therbig

Senna said:


> Best is a subjective thing and to me the best LOOKING DTI ever made is this sweet Alina.
> View attachment 71905



Oh wow - that IS a sweet-looking indicator!  

Although most of you will probably admit that a vintage Starrett Last Word has its own beauty as well - especially its color case hardening and its compactness:




Tom


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## astjp2

I would also add the older Lufkin, they are also made in the same place as Compac and Alina.....Tim


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## Senna

astjp2 said:


> I would also add the older Lufkin, they are also made in the same place as Compac and Alina.....Tim



That's pretty funny. I just bought a Lufkin branded Compac just like my other one but in horizontal format. Will be a perfect companion to my Alina K-21.


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## nopriors

I hope I am not getting off topic. I am really enjoying this conversation. Can anyone recommend a definitive guide for *using* an indicator?
Thanks 
Greg


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## astjp2

nopriors said:


> I hope I am not getting off topic. I am really enjoying this conversation. Can anyone recommend a definitive guide for *using* an indicator?
> Thanks
> Greg



Here is an  idea or 2...


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## toag

*http://longislandindicator.com/p21.html has *a good discussion of indicators, cosine error, tips etc.  for the most part I use mine for tramming and with a surface plate and surface gauge to measure how off I am on something.   I'll see if I can get a picture for you sometime soonish.


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## Harvey Melvin Richards

Senna said:


> That's pretty funny. I just bought a Lufkin branded Compac just like my other one but in horizontal format. Will be a perfect companion to my Alina K-21.



I have one that is both Lufkin and Compac.


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## Senna

Harvey Melvin Richards said:


> I have one that is both Lufkin and Compac.



Cool.

I have one Alina K-21 vertical long point DTI made by Compac and have a Lufkin with the same very cool face as my K-21 and the long point but in horizontal format. Also made by Compac. Been wanting a horizontal to complement my vertical Alina.
Wouldn't have even known to look for a Lufkin except for great writeup on the LIIS website.


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## Uglydog

astjp2,
Did you make this?
Looks like a KingWay knock off.
If this is your design, or if you have non-patented prints would you be willing to post them?

Please.
Daryl
MN




astjp2 said:


> Here is an  idea or 2...


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## astjp2

That is just a piece of cast iron bar that I cut a groove in, turned down to a nominal size and drilled 3 holes in, 1 straight up, 1 at a 45* angle and the other at a 90*  the rest is just some ground rods that I bought from Mcmaster and a few uprights from some old mag bases I bought on ebay.  I could probably come up with the dimensions.  Tim



Uglydog said:


> astjp2,
> Did you make this?
> Looks like a KingWay knock off.
> If this is your design, or if you have non-patented prints would you be willing to post them?
> 
> Please.
> Daryl
> MN


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## EmilioG

I own two Interapids , a mitutoyo and a Starrett 196 back plunger. All nice, but I would love a new Compac 215GA with that big clear dial.
I hear that the Compac is built like a tank. Large bearings that will not wear out prematurely. Con; the dovetails cannot be replaced, they're part of the body,
so don't ding it.


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## Holescreek

I have lots of indicators of all vintages and repair indicators as part of my job.   The "best indicator for the money" is defined by how repeatable it needs to be and for how long, the environment it's going to be used in, and the skill level of the user.  Frankly, lots of old timers never really put their indicators through the paces as they sat in the tool box most of the time.
In my personal shop I use Interapids for all vertical work (under a mill spindle) 100% of the time and I have a few of them.  I worked for a company in the early 80's that had 60 Moore Jig Grinders which are probably still considered the most accurate machine made.  In 1982 I was told that I was going to be trained to run one I was required to purchase an Interapid 312V-1B indicator and an Indicol holder.  IIRC the cost was around $300 back then and I was making about $4.75 an hour.  The thing is, that indicator has been in continuous use for 35 years now.  I've picked up a couple more at flea markets in the last few years for $60 or less.  Most of my horizontal indicators are older Mitutoyos with a sprinkling of B&S .0005" and .0001" left over from the end of my professional machining career.

In the factory I work in we use Peacock brand horizontals with long tips. I'd never heard of them before I started here, and they're not very expensive. ($80?) They can take a beating like I've never seen before and continue to maintain repeatability. Many of them are 15 to 18 years old and pass calibration every three to six months.


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## mikey

EmilioG said:


> I own two Interapids , a mitutoyo and a Starrett 196 back plunger. All nice, but I would love a new Compac 215GA with that big clear dial.
> I hear that the Compac is built like a tank. Large bearings that will not wear out prematurely. Con; the dovetails cannot be replaced, they're part of the body,
> so don't ding it.



I have three 214 GA's and one 215GA, along with an Interapid. I just gave away a really nice jeweled Mit to a friend. I have a slew of dial indicators, too. Of all of them, the Compacs are the smoothest and are a real pleasure to use. I also have two Compac 523 LA dial indicators and those are very accurate, smooth and repeatable. My Mit dial indicators are good but they don't even come close to the smooth action of a Compac indicator. The only one that comes close is my B&S 0.0001" indicator and that one cost some bucks.


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## EmilioG

The Compac 215GA is on sale at LISS with a 10 or 20% discount. The 215GA rarely comes up for sale on Ebay.
I would probably only buy new, unless it looked amazingly new.  Repair costs on precision instruments must be kept in mind
when buying used.  A repair bill will quickly make the cost of ownership beyond the price of new.


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## mksj

I have two Compacs and an Interapid. Two were purchased as NOS (new Old Stock) and one as used but in great condition, all where about 1/2 the price of new ones. They all work great. A few things to also consider is the the range and reversibility of the indicators. If I recall some of the older ones had a reversing lever, many are limited to +/- one revolution which can be a challenge when dealing with the higher resolution models. The extended range is a great help when you are trying to get your work dialed in and the TIR is fairly wide to start with. With the Compac and Alina, you use to be able to pick them up on Fleabay for a lot less, but not so these days since they are now associated with Interpid.  The newer Interapid, Compac and Brown & Sharpe I believe are the same, and just cross branded.

You sometimes get lucky with buying used ones, but most of the time they have been abused which is often seen as the pointer neutral position has been knocked out of alignment. Alternatively when I have purchased a Chinese knockoff measuring tool, it has either broken and/or it does not work smoothly.  After a few earlier experiences, I avoid any tooling from China when possible. I just had this problem with two Shar'sR8 collets that I use for my metric center finders and had some repeat measurement issues, both where out almost 0.001".  I have a set of English Lyndex R8 collets, and the concentricity is 0.0002".  The challenge was then to try to get two close tolerance replacement metric collets. Ended up purchasing two UK Crawford collets. Unfortunately they are no longer produced, so when they are gone I guess that just leaves Lyndex.

I have been looking for a 0.0001" test indicator model for some time,  the newer Interpid's have gotten very pricey, even the NOS and lost a few bids. The Compac 214 and 215 models at 20% off through Long Island Indicator are pretty sweet and a lot less than the Interapid equivalent models. So I recently picked up a Compac 215GA from them that I needed to setup some of my centering indicators.

Compac test indicator with a long contact point that I use on the lathe to center stock in the spider. Love this one because of the wide range, it was perfect for this application. Interpid test indicator and Starrett dial indicator setup for my QCTP.


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## Doubleeboy

If you are flush with cash, MSC has had pretty good prices on 312-b from Interapid.  I have more than enough Swiss and german indicators to last a few lifetimes.  That said if my 312 broke today, i would order a new one and send the broken one into L I Indicator for repair.  I have had two major mishaps with Interapid in last 12 to 15 years, survived both, still dead nuts accurate.  My Chinese clone lasted less than 2 months when I first bought it, I never dropped it, or abused it.  At a bit under $200 the Interapid 312 is a good investment.  Mine has fallen out of sippery arthritic  hands twice, hit mill, bounced to concrete floor, pick it up and go back to work.  An acquaintance of mine likes to fiddle with test indicators, clean em and  fix.   I asked him about Interapid, he said he has never opened one up, never had a broken one, but finds lots of broken Starrett and Mitutoyos to work on, based on his thoughts I bought my Interapid, it has been a great piece.  On a .0005" reading 312 I can easily dial in to less than 2 tenths and with patience and magnifier visor hit 1 tenth, that in combination with its ergonomic design and near indestructible build quality I am hooked.   If MSC does not curently have good prices on them Penn Tool usually does.


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## EmilioG

Curious, why two indicators on the lathe at the same time? Nice indicators, though I am partial to Interapids.  Would like to get a new 312 Bv .0005" Interapid.
Makes it easier to indicate bores w/o a mirror.  I recently bought a mint condition Interapid .0001" DTI to check TIR.  Great instrument.  When buying used, I always look for wear on the stem, dovetails and overall condition.


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## mksj

EmilioG said:


> Curious, why two indicators on the lathe at the same time?



It is a clamping fixture that attaches to my QCTP so it/indicators stays in the same plane of the axis being measured. The attaching fixture block also has two set screws to hold a Noga type arm, the picture shows both as an example but I use one or the other for measurement. The test indicator on the arm is used for hard to reach places that need a narrow probe and also for indicating inside measurements, otherwise the Starett dial indicator is easier for me to see, and the range is 0.200" with a dial resolution of 0.0001". When setting up stock in my 4J, it is much easier to use, but there are times where I either have very short stock in the chuck or checking inside tolerances where I will use the test indicator.


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## EmilioG

This is an old thread, but I had to point out something that the OP wrote;
Mksj: "You sometimes get lucky with buying used ones, but most of the time they have been abused which is often seen as the pointer neutral position has been knocked out of alignment."

I wrote to Rene Meyer at LISS, a Swiss gage expert. Has repaired 100's, or more, Compac DTI's. I asked about this, and he told me that the pointer hand, if not in the original clock position, that this does not mean that their is anything wrong. 
"If it repeats correctly then there is no need to worry about the position of the hand." Rene Meyer

I was concerned about this when shopping for used Compacs and other DTI's.  Buying used can be a gamble, so I try never to buy used or used at a high price. Repairs cost $130!  That $120 Ebay DTI can turn into a $250 or more depressive state. The cost of a new gage!


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## mikey

EmilioG said:


> I was concerned about this when shopping for used Compacs and other DTI's.  Buying used can be a gamble, so I try never to buy used or used at a high price. Repairs cost $130!  That $120 Ebay DTI can turn into a $250 or more depressive state. The cost of a new gage!



All true, but sometimes you need to take the risk to get what you want. I own two Compac 523LA/0.0005"/0-1" dial indicators that haven't been made for over 25 years but they are the finest DI's I know of. The only way to get one is to buy it used, so I did. One came sticky and needed to be cleaned and serviced. The other, which I have owned for over 20 years, fell onto the concrete shop floor and the needle tip cracked off. Both were repaired by MR Tools. In the past, I have always used LIIS but wanted to try Mark to see how he did. He did a good job but it took over a month to get them back to me; I think he spent time finding a now very rare Compac indicator needle.

I'm okay with spending a bit more to get what I want, even if it means having them cleaned and serviced. Both my indicators cost $50.00 on ebay. I lucked out finding the first one quickly but waited over 10 years to find the second one. If you happen upon a Compac 523LA, grab it.

Edit: There is a 523LA on ebay now but it is pretty old and beat up. Even though this is the first one I've seen in a very long time, I would not go for this one but at least you'll know what it looks like: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Compac-Gen...569424?hash=item3af7725910:g:TJsAAOSwZqZaC3gM


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## Bob Korves

We recently sent a group collaboration lot of about a dozen indicators to MR Tool Repair and specifically told Mark we were not in a hurry.  It was several months before they were completed.  Mark asked us a couple times if we needed them sooner, and we declined.  I think the issue is Mark's success.  He is still working his day job, and works on tools evenings and weekends.  Mark has received a lot of reviews calling out his excellent work, even on some tools that parts are no longer available for.   I always get more than I expect from Mark and his prices are more than fair.  If you are in any hurry for your tools to be finished soon or right away, talk to Mark about that before sending them to him.  Mark seems totally honest and is a nice guy, he is just a bit buried in the success he has earned.  IMO.  I will continue to use Mark, happily.  By the way, Mark works on all kinds of tools, not just indicators and other precision measuring tools.  Ask Mark about anything else you want to get repaired.
(another testimonial to get Mark buried deeper yet...)


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## Downwindtracker2

I have four button back #196 Starretts , I had to buy a couple of new sets for work. Before lasers, we aligned pumps with them, I'm quite used to using them. I find them handy and available on CL for $25. They are sturdy ! Thanks to the article I picked up a Tesatast .0005, a Interapid , but I've been afraid to use it. chuckle. Instead I use a Chinese one that was a throw in with some mill/drill tooling. It seems to work fine for aligning the vise.  Around here the very common Japanese made Tedclock was the industrial standard. I have a Chinese clone picked up on sale at Princess Auto, kind of a Harbor Freightish sort of place. I've had it for quite a while, again with no complaints.  And again a Mitutoyo sits in it's box.  I guess at the estate sale some one is going to get some fine dial indicators.


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## EmilioG

I'm sure MR Tool does good work, but for a precision Swiss indicator, I'd rather go with Long Island Indicator.  LIIS does authorized repairs for TESA, Compac and others, and if your gage is still under warranty, Mark is not authorized to do this. Same with Starrett still under warranty. You have to go back to Starrett.  Calipers, height gages, would probably go to MR, since LIIS doesn't work on those and some other brands like Helios. So I guess it's good to have a few choices.  I really like LIIS's website, which is very informative and Rene Meyer has no problem answering any and all questions about parts, repairs and how to DIY tips. 

Mikey
"All true, but sometimes you need to take the risk to get what you want".  If there is something like a discontinued Compac that you feel you must have, $50 is not a bad gamble..if it can be repaired/parts are available. Compac in general are a good bet since they're built so well, with sturdy bearings.  I wouldn't pay a lot more than $50 for a used gage because of the high cost of repairs/parts.  The Compac ebay listing linked, doesn't look too bad. The metal is tarnished, but otherwise doesn't look abused. It's old. It would make a good back up for possible spare parts?


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## mikey

EmilioG said:


> I'm sure MR Tool does good work, but for a precision Swiss indicator, I'd rather go with Long Island Indicator.  LIIS does authorized repairs for TESA, Compac and others, and if your gage is still under warranty, Mark is not authorized to do this. Same with Starrett still under warranty. You have to go back to Starrett.  Calipers, height gages, would probably go to MR, since LIIS doesn't work on those and some other brands like Helios. So I guess it's good to have a few choices.  I really like LIIS's website, which is very informative and Rene Meyer has no problem answering any and all questions about parts, repairs and how to DIY tips.
> 
> Mikey
> "All true, but sometimes you need to take the risk to get what you want".  If there is something like a discontinued Compac that you feel you must have, $50 is not a bad gamble..if it can be repaired/parts are available. Compac in general are a good bet since they're built so well, with sturdy bearings.  I wouldn't pay a lot more than $50 for a used gage because of the high cost of repairs/parts.  The Compac ebay listing linked, doesn't look too bad. The metal is tarnished, but otherwise doesn't look abused. It's old. It would make a good back up for possible spare parts?



You're right, it probably works or could be made to work ... for the right price. I suspect the seller would accept a $50.00 offer. If it works, you are way ahead. If not, then you have a decision to make. I could buy it and keep it for spare parts but I already have two of these and they are not likely to die before I do.

I actually emailed Rene to make sure he had parts to repair them and he said that he had some parts but, in general, parts were no longer available. Still, he said that he could probably repair one. I suspect he has a collection of dead indicators laying around that he can cannibalize from. If I had a chance at a good 523, I would take it but with the understanding that it will cost you to have it serviced.

I don't normally come out and say, "buy this if you see one". Many other indicators exist and not everyone needs one of this quality. However, if you get a chance to use a 523 then you'll see why I think this is the best DI made. Smooth, accurate, repeatable and no perceptible lag when reversing direction. The only DI that comes close is an old B&S tenths indicator I have and that was made by the same factory as the 523. I have two in perfect working order; one is used, the other is my security blanket. The 7 other DI's I have are sitting.


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## EmilioG

The hand looks very short on the 523. Is it easy to read? I don't think Compac makes DI's anymore, I only see DTI's., so the 523 would make a fine addition to the other Compacs. For $50 plus another $150 or more with repair, ? Maybe.       I don't really need a 523, but if one came up in better condition for around that price, I would consider it.   I already have 3 other DI/DTI's on a list. Good information though. I haven't seen anything on this gage, not even on LIIS.com


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## mikey

EmilioG said:


> The hand looks very short on the 523. Is it easy to read? I don't think Compac makes DI's anymore, I only see DTI's., so the 523 would make a fine addition to the other Compacs. For $50 plus another $150 or more with repair, ? Maybe.       I don't really need a 523, but if one came up in better condition for around that price, I would consider it.   I already have 3 other DI/DTI's on a list. Good information though. I haven't seen anything on this gage, not even on LIIS.com



You're right, the tip of the indicator needle is broken on the bay one. The end of the needle is supposed to reach the unit markings so that it is very easy to read. Like I said, I would pass on that one but wanted to make you aware of the 523.


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## mikey

I made an offer of $20.00 on that ebay 523 and will hold it for parts as you suggested. We'll see what he says.


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## mksj

EmilioG said:


> "If it repeats correctly then there is no need to worry about the position of the hand." Rene Meyer


This may be true, but this only applies to hands on testing and verifying accuracy with a gauge block. Used indicator you are buying based on photos and a description I would not purchase one with the  pointer knocked out of position vs. another which wasn't.

There are a number of good choices in DIs and DTIs, but also a lot of bad ones, in particular with the high degree of fakes and also the current crop of rebranded lower quality indicators. Names like Fowler, SPI, etc. mean little these days and their selling price is much higher than comparable Chinese brands. I learned the hard way, and purchased Fowler and SPI measuring indicators from Enco years ago, they all broke and failed to have repeat accuracy. Won't go there again, I buy once these days. I like the older Compac and Alina indicators, I have several and they work wonderfully and are durable. On the dial indicators, I picked up Stareett 25-511J and a 25-611J for $75 each in new condition. Really sweet 0.0001" dial indicators with a 0.200" range, but I always had a soft spot for the older Alina/Compac indicators, even some of the older SPI. These two below caught my eye, but I the Starrett's above is all that I need. On test indicators, one consideration when looking at the Compaq vs. Interapid is the former has a larger range and wider markings for the same sensitivity model. The Compac 215GA  is a dream test indicator, last one I expect to ever need, the rest sit in their boxes. Unfortunately the used market price for these indicators have gone up significantly.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fowler-52-...cator-0-40-Range-0005-Graduation/132182510328
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alina-513-...ator-0-500-Range-0005-Graduation/142485688277


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## mikey

Alina's were re-branded Compac indicators. Good ones, like the one Mark linked to, are made by Compac and you can see the Compac name on the face. The older style B&S DI's were also made in the same factory that produced Compac, Tesa and B&S indicators. I have an old B&S 0.0001" DI that is just as smooth as my Compac's. 

Mark, I agree on the 215GA. If you haven't tried one, a 214GA (long range 0.0005") is of the same ilk.


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## rongross

astjp2 said:


> Here is an  idea or 2...
> 
> View attachment 72258
> View attachment 72259
> View attachment 72260


I know this was a few years ago, but I wanted to say that your photos give me a great idea to make a jig to try to find a high spot in my lathe's ways...I presently don't know where the problem is and there is 4 surfaces that can be suspects!  Thanks!


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## astjp2

You should have 4 surfaces on the ways and 2 if there is a precision bar in the spindle. The top and side of the precision bar will tell you if your spindle is parallel to the ways. Tim


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