# My PM-1236 Precision arrived today



## Z2V (Oct 14, 2017)

Well, my lathe arrived as scheduled today.




Umm, I don't like this.







The pallet was pretty beat up. Looks like it was maybe dropped. Outside of a several scratches I have not found any major damage yet.








Anyway, I need to get this out of the center of my garage so I can put the cars in this evening.
I'm by myself so I use what I have available.






I used my four post car lift and four ratchet straps to put it together.
Now I need to get it out from under the lift so I can park the cars.





Well, mission accomplished, but, what's missing? The damn drip pan!!!!!
It was leaning against the wall behind me and in my haste to get this together tonight, well, I forgot to put it in.
I get the dummy of the day award!!!!
Putting the pieces together was a cake walk, getting it moved over to the side was a different story. I had to put sheet metal under the heavy end to get it to move, otherwise the back side would just dig into the floor.

I guess I'll have a full day ahead of me tomorrow. I think I will put power to it and quickly check operation before I do much more. I have the pipe run just need to mount the disconnect and pull about 20' of wire and terminate.

One thing that threw me for a loop. The cover latch on the gearbox door.



Looks like the typical push and lift latch. The door won't open. I opened the spindle cover and took a peek. Well, the wire for the micro switch on the door was wrapped around the latch but this is what threw me a curve ball,


Having to twist the latch to unlock the door.


All put up for the night, lots more to come.
I'm beat!!


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## Aukai (Oct 14, 2017)

Head down, getting work done. That's how to do it, Just sometime your reminded your not 25 anymore....


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## Z2V (Oct 14, 2017)

No doubt about that!!


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## mikey (Oct 14, 2017)

Congrats, Jeff! Beautiful lathe you got there. Looking forward to your reviews, buddy!


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## Sleddog (Oct 14, 2017)

Congratulations! I got my PM1236 earlier this year. I'm extremely pleased with it.


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## .LMS. (Oct 14, 2017)

Awesome - I am envious and will watch the thread with great interest.


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## Z2V (Oct 15, 2017)

Thanks guys
I got the power hooked up and gave it a spin. I also set up the brake, coolant pump, back splash and shroud between the bases. I have a date with the wife tomorrow so might not get to the drip pan,. I have it pretty close to where it will be now but I'll have to drag it back under the lift to put the pan in. Shouldn't be too bad, it's only 1400 lbs
Then clean, level, and start cutting 




More latter


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## Z2V (Oct 15, 2017)

Sleddog 

Did you get the cast iron base with yours?


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## Groundhog (Oct 15, 2017)

Maybe rent or borrow an engine hoist to lift the lathe for the chip pan? Might be another option to pulling it back into the center of the garage and back. (you can use mine if you want to come to Kansas to get it  !)


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## Z2V (Oct 15, 2017)

I have a 3' pry bar with a 90* that fits in the pockets at the bottom of the base where the anchors or leveling feet go. I discovered this evening that I can move it about 2" at a time by rocking the bar in these pockets. Shouldn't be too bad but many thanks for the suggestion!




We'll see. I doubt I'll get to it until Monday.


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## Z2V (Oct 15, 2017)

My garage floor sure needs another coat of paint.  LOL


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## Aukai (Oct 15, 2017)

Just put it on the list, it may make it to the top......someday....


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## Z2V (Oct 15, 2017)

Yea, there's that "list" again, never ends does it. Lovin retirement!!


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## mikey (Oct 15, 2017)

Jeff, I can picture you sitting on your lift, looking at the lathe and smiling. Maybe even having a beer from that fridge next to the lathe. I remember sitting in my shop doing exactly that when I got my Emco lathe. I realized that a lathe isn't just a machine; its a quality of life thing.

Happy for you, Jeff!


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## Z2V (Oct 15, 2017)

Mike, you have such a vision. I actually did that this evening while I drank my one beer for the night, all the while thinking, " damn I've got a lot of cleaning to do". That was a good beer


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## Aukai (Oct 15, 2017)

Now your just bragging, retirement, 1 year 10 months to go, 38 & 2 months under my belt now.


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## Z2V (Oct 15, 2017)

Your going for 40, great job. I hung it up after just over 38 yrs.  Now I've gotten interested in hobby machining, I might need a part time job to pay for the hobby budget, but a WallyWorld greeter is out of the question.  LOL


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## Aukai (Oct 15, 2017)

That is why I'm stocking the garage now, before retirement. Plus I can claim an addiction....
I work 10 days a month for my wife's pay check, part time is mine. Social security wants money back if you go out before 66. I owe,  I owe, so of to work I go.


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## Z2V (Oct 15, 2017)

addiction, hmm, you might be on to something there!!


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## Aukai (Oct 15, 2017)




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## Sleddog (Oct 15, 2017)

Z2V said:


> Sleddog
> 
> Did you get the cast iron base with yours?


No I didn't. I don't believe it was available, at least I didn't know about it. I would have though.


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## qualitymachinetools (Oct 16, 2017)

Sorry about that crate damage, but glad it seems OK! These trucking companies frustrate me sometimes, how hard is it to ship something without beating it up?


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## Z2V (Oct 17, 2017)

Thanks Matt, good talking to you today. I really appreciate you getting that package out to me.

Well, I got some more cleaning done and topped of the gearboxes with oil today. I hope to get the drip pan put on tomorrow then I can put it in place and get her leveled up.

I took a short video but can't seem to be able to add it. I couldn't resist just making a couple cuts earlier today. 
Heck, I can't even add a regular pic for some reason. I had no problem yesterday, will see what tomorrow brings.

More later.


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## Z2V (Oct 19, 2017)

Well, I got the chip pan installed today and got the machine in its place. Wasn't too bad, took me about two hours total.

My garage floor , like most if not all, is far from level, even far from flat. I went with the heavy cast iron base for a good solid foot print. Head to tail it's a 1/4" out of level, front to back I only needed one piece of banding iron strategically placed to get the twist out. It's sitting firmly on the floor. If I get it level head to tail I will loose the solid foot print that I have now. It would likely take leveling feet to get it done. I'm using a Starrett #98 level, pretty sensitive. I'm thinking that as long as the bed has no twist and the head is inline with the tail and the head is also true to the bed what will it hurt if the bed is not level head to tail? I would think that a good solid foot print on the floor would be better for performance than having the corners jacked up on leveling feet or shim. Square feet compared to square inches of foot print.
What does the Navy do with their machines on ships and subs? I'm sure there are chapters on this if I do a search but I just threw it out here to see if it sticks. 

I put the four jaw on and centered a piece of 3/4" drill rod, ready to center drill when my drill chuck arrives tomorrow. I'm gonna move forward checking head- tail alignment then make sure the head is true to the bed. 

This is all new to me, I'm green as grass so if any of you guys see me heading in the wrong direction please speak up!!

More later


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## mikey (Oct 19, 2017)

Jeff, I just checked the PM1236 manual and found that there are no leveling adjusters between the cabinet and the lathe. Therefore, all leveling must be done with levelers under the cabinet or shims between the lathe and cabinet. Trust me; you do not want to mess with shims. Know that the cabinet is going to move for a week or more once you level it so you will need to re-check it periodically.

The way this works is that you bolt the lathe solidly to the cabinet and then use levelers on the cabinet to bring the lathe into level. The lathe and cabinet need not be level with the World; level as used here simply means there is no twist in the bed. In effect, you are using the cabinet levelers to twist the bed into alignment. So, you need cabinet levelers.

One product to look at are Royal Machine Mounts - supposed to be very good and not outrageously expensive. Another option are leveling casters that allow you to level the lathe accurately, then move it at need. This is the option I prefer and have found that the Carrymaster brand is amongst the best of the breed. 

Your Starrett 98 has a sensitivity of 0.42mm/m, which is not that sensitive. A precision machinist level is typically around 0.02mm/m = 0.0002"/10". Such a level will move a whole unit before the Starrett 98 bubble even begins to move. An argument can be made for less sensitivity but a precision level saves time by getting you very close, very fast (God willing). I would use what you have for now but keep an eye out for a good level. You will use it more often than you think because lathes move and need re-leveling periodically.

So, to answer your question directly, no, the cabinet does not need to be level with the World. It only has to remove any twist in your lathe bed. The leveling process is not difficult but it can be time consuming, depending on how lucky you are. Sometimes I can move my lathe and then re-level it in less than 2 minutes; sometimes it can take an hour or more, depending on God's sense of humor on that day. There are tons of info on lathe leveling - take your pick. 

Keep in mind that you need to level the lathe with your level, then do a 2-collar test to fine-tune it. Then you need to check your headstock alignment with the ways, then check your tailstock alignment with the spindle. All of this can take some time but do your homework and ask for advice and the guys will steer you right. If you are confused at any time, PM me.


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## Z2V (Oct 19, 2017)

"Level to the world" was my point of question. Thanks for confirming my thoughts. According to my "98" there is no twist the entire length, head to tail. I will move forward with the other checks on Friday.
My point of concern is maximum contact between the base and the floor for the best possible stability. If I put leveling feet under the base I loose contact surface with the floor. 
Shims between the lathe and base would be better by my way of thinking but much more difficult to accomplish a true level., and I put a big bead of silicon between the two. Leveling between the lathe and base would leave full contact with the floor.
 Mike, thanks for the input, I'll report back in a day or so


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## Tozguy (Oct 19, 2017)

Since the floor is concrete and you have 4 feet on each cabinet, there are no worries about having enough contact area with the floor using levelling feet. I have essentially the same lathe and cabinets on a concrete floor and have not had any problems with movement once set up with even tension on the 8 feet (1.5'' dia. each).
My lathe is levelled so that oil in the chip pan runs to the drain hole in the middle of the pan. Also to be aware if there are oil galleries in the headstock that supply oil to bearings. I tweaked the level (to the world) on my lathe for best oil flow to the bearings.
These lathes are well set up at the factory and are well crated. There is no reason to assume that there is twist in the ways or a mis aligned headstock from the get-go. Turning tests will tell you if the lathe is good to go. Sure, check alignment of everything with instruments if you have them but it is not necessary to go out and buy test bars and precision levels to set up the lathe. Turning tests will tell you everything you need to know.


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## mikey (Oct 19, 2017)

Z2V said:


> "Level to the world" was my point of question. Thanks for confirming my thoughts. According to my "98" there is no twist the entire length, head to tail. I will move forward with the other checks on Friday.
> My point of concern is maximum contact between the base and the floor for the best possible stability. If I put leveling feet under the base I loose contact surface with the floor.
> Shims between the lathe and base would be better by my way of thinking but much more difficult to accomplish a true level., and I put a big bead of silicon between the two. Leveling between the lathe and base would leave full contact with the floor.
> Mike, thanks for the input, I'll report back in a day or so



Most lathes are supported with levelers under the cabinet. It is the fastest way to level a lathe like yours and is more than solid enough but its your lathe so go with what you think is best. I know what leveling a lathe with shims is like and I would spare you that if I could.


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## Z2V (Oct 19, 2017)

I haven't mentioned this earlier and I don't see any visible damage but the crate was dropped on the heavy end somewhere in its journey from PM to Austin.






Tozguy,
You brought up a point I didn't consider, the coolant drain in the drip pan. As it is now the drain is on the high side. I have some 1/4" plate, I might just fix that.
Thanks guys


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## Bob Korves (Oct 19, 2017)

Sometimes, usually with older, well worn lathes, better results are achieved with the lathe twisted, not level and straight.  With your new lathe, that should not be the case.  Start with it level and without any twist.  Any inaccuracies you find with turning tests are more likely from adjustment and alignment issues.  There are lots of sources for knowledge on the web to get things correct.  This site is for sure the most friendly place to ask questions...


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## Z2V (Oct 19, 2017)

I thought UPS was bringing me a drill chuck for the tailstock today but it looks like it won't be hear until tomorrow. I'll be at COTA for the Formula 1 race weekend. Probably won't get back to this until Monday.


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## mikey (Oct 19, 2017)

@Alan H did a writeup of his lathe leveling process for his PM1340; you might give it a read: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/leveling-sequence-for-a-6-footed-pm1340gt.59517/#post-490699


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## Z2V (Oct 19, 2017)

Thanks Mike, I'll take a look at it. I picked up a 1/4" plate this afternoon for under the head to level it up.


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## woodchucker (Oct 19, 2017)

Aukai said:


> That is why I'm stocking the garage now, before retirement. Plus I can claim an addiction....
> I work 10 days a month for my wife's pay check, part time is mine. Social security wants money back if you go out before 66. I owe,  I owe, so of to work I go.


I've talked to a few people who say the numbers still are good if you go out b4. They say it takes 10 years to make up the difference. That's a good amount of time. I'm going to keep working because I don't have a pension, many who stop working die early, I'd probably be one of them knowing my luck.  Even though this shop will be my retirement fun.


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## JohnnyTK (Mar 6, 2018)

mikey said:


> Jeff, I just checked the PM1236 manual and found that there are no leveling adjusters between the cabinet and the lathe. Therefore, all leveling must be done with levelers under the cabinet or shims between the lathe and cabinet. Trust me; you do not want to mess with shims. Know that the cabinet is going to move for a week or more once you level it so you will need to re-check it periodically.
> 
> The way this works is that you bolt the lathe solidly to the cabinet and then use levelers on the cabinet to bring the lathe into level. The lathe and cabinet need not be level with the World; level as used here simply means there is no twist in the bed. In effect, you are using the cabinet levelers to twist the bed into alignment. So, you need cabinet levelers.
> 
> ...



I answered my own question as I thought that the base of the stand had to be touching the shop floor, but after a little googling on the site I found my own answer.


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## mikey (Mar 6, 2018)

Johnny, I am not clear on what you're asking here. Can you elaborate a bit for us?


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## dlane (Mar 6, 2018)

The shipper was probably to busy fooling with some electronic gizmo instead of being careful what they were doing,
Do the lathes come with touch up paint ?, ied want some or all of the shipping cost back  that ain’t right who shipped it
hope it works out for ya.


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