# Just bought an old 1994 -12 X 36 Enco Lathe 110-2075



## Mr Mike (Aug 22, 2020)

Hello everybody, Being impatient I bit the bullet and ended up buying this 1994 Enco Lathe from an Estate Sale in California. Its remarkably similar to the Grizzly G4003 and the stand looks the same if not identical to the Grizzly Stand.

The funny thing is I wasn't so much sold on the machine ( One Owner for personal use. ) as I was on the amount of tooling that's comes with it. Literally box's and box''s... Ill put photos up next week. He used it to make or work on creating rail mounted firearms.

Its not the prettiest Lathe but it was well lubricated, covered and looked well cared for... It comes with not just tooling but Calipers, several Dial indicators, all the original packaged items, Way oil, Gear Oil, Grease and much much much more, Way to much to list, I think I saw an indexing head of sorts in the box's as well.

I had My Heart set on getting and restoring either a Logan 2557 or Logan 7500 which is why I was going to California in the first place... but how could I say no to a lathe for $1800.00 with boat loads of tooling.

I purposely didn't bring the work lift gate truck since i wanted a way out of buying a lathe on the spot and force a time gap to ponder my thoughts, I wasn't really expecting to come away this lathe.




I checked all I could running the lathe through its paces with my very limited knowledge and found nothing of issue with any components excluding a good amount of backlash in the cross slide. I did a bit of research and this model may be prone to wiring issues, I have some schooling in electrical so hopefully I can solve any issues that arise from that area.

I left a deposit and will pick it up next week and will report back with what all I got.  If anyone can share pertinent info about available parts - guessing the G4003, any known issues or that I just managed to get the Enconomy Version of a HF lathe. After mentioning that, what is the lathe a knock off from, some Emco model maybe..?

I feel like I got a good deal and I'm hoping this will make a good beginner lathe to destroy learn on since it's ready to go and just needs a bit of clean up.. Other than my 9 X 20 this will be my first full functioning lathe.  Have a great week people and thanks for looking.

_Edited for content, Spelling & Grammar._


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## NCjeeper (Aug 22, 2020)

Looks identical to my 13x40 built in 2004. I have not had any electrical issues (knock on wood).


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## Nogoingback (Aug 23, 2020)

If you got all that for $1800.00, you stole it.  Congrats!


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## Mr Mike (Aug 30, 2020)

Hello people...
Today Saturday, was both good and disappointing day, I Picked up the lathe and on my way back to Vegas... I took a detour to drive on the famous Route 66 for a few miles.. It was kinda nifty since you see all the movies about it, After that... strait back home I went only to find I cant get the Lathe unloaded off the truck my self because the two rear leveling casters ( it rolls ) got bent while we loaded it apparently.

Since its a 1000 lb machine I had no way to move it onto the lift gate myself and being too late to call for help I parked the lathe back at work behind roll up doors till tomorrow, In the morning ill strip the Lathe down till its lite enough I can move it my self or try and fix the bent castors..  Ill end up having to repair the castors anyways because of the added features they afford, the base has a wider stance on the floor for stability & mobility and allows for easy leveling of the lathe.

What a day...!! Have a great weekend folks, Ill report back after I sort this mess out.


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## matthewsx (Aug 30, 2020)

Be safe moving it and don't hesitate to ask for help. Really, 1000lbs is a lot and you don't want to have to fix it if it falls, I'm in that process now (previous owner dropped it). Not to mention what can happen to your body if it's in the way 

I had two generous forum members volunteer to help with my move and I don't know how I could have done it without them 

John


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## Mr Mike (Aug 30, 2020)

matthewsx said:


> Be safe moving it and don't hesitate to ask for help. Really, 1000lbs is a lot and you don't want to have to fix it if it falls, I'm in that process now (previous owner dropped it). Not to mention what can happen to your body if it's in the way
> 
> I had two generous forum members volunteer to help with my move and I don't know how I could have done it without them
> 
> John



Thanks for the word of caution, Lol right there with ya on the safety part Sir...That is why I stopped even trying and parked the truck last night,  Glad I stopped being impatient and tearing it down to make it lighter so I could move it. Now I don't have to put the whole thing back together 

Its currently safe in my garage... Had to use / borrow the shop fork skids to get the Lathe off safely. The fork skids left plenty of space allowing me to put the 4 wheel dolly ( photo left side ) right under the cabinet, and right in the garage she went.




The fork skids are smooth so the bent casters slid down it without too much effort.

I like the simple design idea he had but it failed in real world execution for moving, His idea is good thou because it adds stability with a wider stance and easy to level using the threaded bolts.. ill build on the idea and and see if i can improve on it as access to the rear of the machine is needed periodically.

The caster on the other side in the photo is stuck sideways. it wasn't rolling anywhere.


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## matthewsx (Aug 31, 2020)

That's a might fine looking machine there, I bet you'll be happy with it and not at all missing the "vintage" experience  

I may look into putting my 13x40 Bolton on some kind of castors but the ones that really work for this application are stupid money in my book. Most likely my plan for moving the lathe away from the wall when I need to will involve the Harbor Freight engine hoist I bought for the move. Can't wait to see all the goodies you got with it, that makes the deal really sweet since the machine itself is worth $1800.

Let me be the first to say, YOU SUCK 


JOhn


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## ACHiPo (Aug 31, 2020)

Congratulations.  That’s a great looking machine.

I highly recommend CarryMaster leveling casters.  They are high quality and you can use them as leveling feet as well.  they make it easy to push around 1k lbs.



			Carrymaster Leveling Casters


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## matthewsx (Aug 31, 2020)

Their online store doesn't work but there are other places that have them. Thanks, I thought they were much more expensive than they are.

John


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## ACHiPo (Aug 31, 2020)

Zambus carries them and has decent prices.  You might want to get a higher rating as it makes wheeling easier, but these should do the job.








						Carrymaster AC-300S Light & Medium Duty Stem Leveling Caster
					

Discover the CarryMaster AC-300S White or Black, a Light & Medium Duty Leveling Caster, part of the AC Series. With a net weight of only 1.32 lb, the CarryMaster AC-300S has a load capacity of 374.79 lbs per unit. The load capacity with 4 casters is 1102.31 lbs. The CarryMaster AC-300S White is...




					www.zambus.com
				




mJVail is also good (first site) but you’ll need to call them.


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## Mr Mike (Aug 31, 2020)

ACHiPo said:


> Zambus carries them and has decent prices.  You might want to get a higher rating as it makes wheeling easier, but these should do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Those are the ones that I was going to put on the logan 1875 I was restoring. and will likely be the ones i use for this lathe... Thanks for reminding me...

Actually the AC-300 might be perfect, The use weight given is based on three casters in contact with the ground at any given time.. Per the manufacturers Info. Only thing I'm unsure of is you get less then half inch of travel to level the machine.. Ill have to check the floor area where it will be set and see if that will work.

As for being a good looking machine... YOU sir are way to kind, I bet you let everyone win board games at family reunions.

Thank you.


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## Mr Mike (Aug 31, 2020)

matthewsx said:


> That's a might fine looking machine there, I bet you'll be happy with it and not at all missing the "vintage" experience
> 
> I may look into putting my 13x40 Bolton on some kind of castors but the ones that really work for this application are stupid money in my book. Most likely my plan for moving the lathe away from the wall when I need to will involve the Harbor Freight engine hoist I bought for the move. Can't wait to see all the goodies you got with it, that makes the deal really sweet since the machine itself is worth $1800.
> 
> ...



lets check whats in the box's first and see if there is any good stuff, may be no reason to think I got a great deal. even if its all mostly junk I think I got a decent deal on the lathe - 1800.00 seems fair concidering.


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## DavidR8 (Aug 31, 2020)

That is a great looking machine, well done. And no unloading mishaps are even better!


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## Mr Mike (Aug 31, 2020)

matthewsx said:


> That's a might fine looking machine there, I bet you'll be happy with it and not at all missing the "vintage" experience
> 
> JOhn



Hello.. lol this lathe is kinda vintage, It was built in Dec 1994 - almost 26 years ago and no longer requires a smog check. Its so old I thought it had surface rust on the ways... Nope just old 1994 way oil that turned brown from never ever being cleaned... and the reason I guess it was never cleaned is he has notes all over the lathe, ill get some photos up in a few days. 

There are a few weird things about it too, like a 3 jaw Frankenstein chuck on it that I haven't removed yet..! and a few other odd modification he made.

Thanks for the fine looking lathe compliment, I think she may clean up nicely. I really do miss the beauty of an Old iron lathe but this lathe will suit me fine, Its more lathe and more capable then I am, ill grow into it, and like you say I don't have to do a full restore on it... 



DavidR8 said:


> That is a great looking machine, well done. And no unloading mishaps are even better!



Thanks for the compliment, I was worried about getting it off the truck with its narrow stand and high center of gravity, just looking at it would cause it to tip, I took great caution every inch.. Kinda funny cause I had no issues getting my old Logan 1875 off the truck at all.

Although I believe the stand has short comings I do like that it takes up a small foot print in the shop.

Thank you for looking,..


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## kb58 (Aug 31, 2020)

Depending where it's going, think ahead about leveling; it may well mean offsetting the leveling castors a fair bit. I had to do that on my lathe due to having nearly a 1" difference in floor elevation sloping toward the street. Yes, leveling castors can adjust for that, but only to a small degree, typically a lot less than what may be required.

Also, whoever left the threaded rod bare on those castors needs about three points deducted from their man card. It has/had about zero lateral strength, and just adding a spacer would have prevented all the drama.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 1, 2020)

kb58 said:


> Depending where it's going, think ahead about leveling; it may well mean offsetting the leveling castors a fair bit. I had to do that on my lathe due to having nearly a 1" difference in floor elevation sloping toward the street. Yes, leveling castors can adjust for that, but only to a small degree, typically a lot less than what may be required.
> 
> Also, whoever left the threaded rod bare on those castors needs about three points deducted from their man card. It has/had about zero lateral strength, and just adding a spacer would have prevented all the drama.



Hello Sir..

The original owner passed away, so Ill have to take the blame and absorb the 3 points off my card...  Hopefully I get points back for unloading it myself using brain power causing no additional damage to the machine.  On a funny note, bent casters are the least this lathe has to worry about when I start to learn how to machine on it.

I did check the pad where the lathe will be placed and the elevation change is within 3/8" at its lowest point. So that's good news.

Thanks for checking in on me, I appreciate it.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 1, 2020)

Hello all...
I ordered some new leveling casters from CasterHq because they have dust protectors over the bearings... and are a little more robust than the AC-300s.  New Leveling Casters


Here is the photo of the FrankenChuck I mentioned early on. the clean spot that I thought was rust came off easy with WD40, I think it was just Really old Oil. The previous owner didnt clean it I'm guessing due to his notes he has all over the lathe. The whole lathe has this Brown haze all over it.


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## ACHiPo (Sep 1, 2020)

No pic?


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## Mr Mike (Sep 1, 2020)

ACHiPo said:


> No pic?



Sorry I was editing... its up now...!


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## ACHiPo (Sep 1, 2020)

Mr Mike said:


> Sorry I was editing... its up now...!


Gee it was worth the wait! 

That is quite something right there!  Maybe it runs true?


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## Mr Mike (Sep 1, 2020)

ACHiPo said:


> Gee it was worth the wait!
> 
> That is quite something right there!  Maybe it runs true?



So is that normal..? I'm new to the lathe seen but I have never seen a chuck like that. The bolts go all the way through the chuck.


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## matthewsx (Sep 1, 2020)

My guess is they were originally socket head cap screws that were recessed and somebody buggered up the threads enough that drilling out and re-tapping seemed _*(seemed) *_like a good idea. Take it apart to see but you're probably going to want to replace it anyway.

Did you get a 4 jaw?

John


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## matthewsx (Sep 1, 2020)

Just hope they don't go all the way into the spindle. Probably shouldn't affect anything even if they do but it would be a shame.

John


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## Mr Mike (Sep 1, 2020)

matthewsx said:


> My guess is they were originally socket head cap screws that were recessed and somebody buggered up the threads enough that drilling out and re-tapping seemed _*(seemed) *_like a good idea. Take it apart to see but you're probably going to want to replace it anyway.
> 
> Did you get a 4 jaw?
> 
> John



Yes sir I got a four jaw scroll chuck, Photo of all chucks and back plates... The small 3 Jaw chuck is threaded and I haven't found a mount that will allow me to use it with this lathe...






matthewsx said:


> Just hope they don't go all the way into the spindle. Probably shouldn't affect anything even if they do but it would be a shame.
> 
> John



No it does not go all the way through, it ends about a 1/4" from the rear of the chuck..


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## Nogoingback (Sep 1, 2020)

What type of mount does the spindle have?

That looks like a Bison chuck which is worth keeping if it's in good shape and can be mounted properly.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 1, 2020)

Nogoingback said:


> What type of mount does the spindle have?
> 
> That looks like a Bison chuck which is worth keeping if it's in good shape and can be mounted properly.



Hello Nogoingback..

The Spindle looks to be a D1-4  and you have a good eye, the 3 jaw chuck is a Bison Set Tru 6 1/4" , the rest are not. and oddly there are 3 bolts holding that chuck to its back plate I think. I named it the frankenChuck because of that. 

There is a bunch of tooling that came with the lathe, and several QCTP holders with bits installed... I have no idea whats worth keeping and whats not... some of it doesn't seem like its lathe tooling, or even go with a lathe. unfortunately there are no collets or collet closer


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## matthewsx (Sep 2, 2020)

Mr Mike said:


> Hello Nogoingback..
> 
> The Spindle looks to be a D1-4  and you have a good eye, the 3 jaw chuck is a Bison Set Tru 6 1/4" , the rest are not. and oddly there are 3 bolts holding that chuck to its back plate I think. I named it the frankenChuck because of that.
> 
> There is a bunch of tooling that came with the lathe, and several QCTP holders with bits installed... I have no idea whats worth keeping and whats not... some of it doesn't seem like its lathe tooling, or even go with a lathe. unfortunately there are no collets or collet closer



So, IMHO it's all worth keeping.

What it appears you have is a machine that someone who understood what they were doing owned.

It's easy to look at the remnants of someone else's work and scratch your head but from looking at the photo you posted I would really like to see the work that person did on your new machine.

Very often the fixtures and jigs used are just whatever needed to be done at the time to make the parts. You don't have to make things pretty to get the job done, and you don't have to buy the most expensive tools to do good work.

Choose a good 3 jaw and 4 jaw and start making chips. You can buy ER collet stuff cheap from China and build your own collet chuck for close tolerance work, you only need a collet closer for production runs which should be done by a CNC shop these days in any case.

When I bought my Seneca Falls I didn't have a clue what all the stuff I got with it was for. Now I have a better idea and even if I never need something it still belongs with the machine. Even if it's not lathe tooling what's to say it won't come in handy with the next machine you buy. And if it's something you really won't use ever there's always the "pass around box" 

Get that sucker under power and lets see what you can do with it 


John


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## mikey (Sep 2, 2020)

Mr Mike said:


> Hello Nogoingback..
> 
> The Spindle looks to be a D1-4  and you have a good eye, the 3 jaw chuck is a Bison Set Tru 6 1/4" ...



Ummm, I agree that's a Bison Set-Tru 3 jaw but I don't see anything to suggest its a D1-4 camlock spindle. I bet that's a threaded spindle and the Bison is sitting on a backplate. Could be wrong but a D1-4 will almost always have at least one of the camlock cams showing - I see none. Bison chucks usually attach to a backplate with socket head cap screws - wonder why he used hex bolts?

The 3 jaw chuck in the center top row has reversible jaws but I don't recognize the brand icon. Might be a decent chuck with those universal jaws on it.


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## matthewsx (Sep 2, 2020)

Lets see a picture of the spindle with the chuck removed. The Frankenchuck photo is a little confusing.

John


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## mikey (Sep 2, 2020)

I looked at the manual and it calls out a D1-4 spindle so I must be wrong but I don't see any camlock cams on the rim of the chuck in the picture shown so how is the chuck being held onto the spindle?


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## Mr Mike (Sep 2, 2020)

mikey said:


> I looked at the manual and it calls out a D1-4 spindle so I must be wrong but I don't see any camlock cams on the rim of the chuck in the picture shown so how is the chuck being held onto the spindle?





matthewsx said:


> Lets see a picture of the spindle with the chuck removed. The Frankenchuck photo is a little confusing.
> 
> John



I will post some clear photos of the spindle and chuck today when I get off work. The Cam locks are integrated into the spindle. and the chuck back plate is a conversion plate I think I read on bisons website.

My last working lathe was a 9X20 CM, so for me the size of this lathe is a bit intimidating and much bigger than the projects I have in store for it.


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## Nogoingback (Sep 2, 2020)

Mr Mike said:


> Hello Nogoingback..
> 
> The Spindle looks to be a D1-4  and you have a good eye, the 3 jaw chuck is a Bison Set Tru 6 1/4" , the rest are not. and oddly there are 3 bolts holding that chuck to its back plate I think. I named it the frankenChuck because of that.
> 
> There is a bunch of tooling that came with the lathe, and several QCTP holders with bits installed... I have no idea whats worth keeping and whats not... some of it doesn't seem like its lathe tooling, or even go with a lathe. unfortunately there are no collets or collet closer



It will be interesting to see what you have there once the chuck is removed.  I'm curious about the use of hex bolts 
rather than cap screws (normal for Bison) to hold the chuck on.  As for the other stuff, I agree with mathewsx,
just hang onto it for a while and sort it out later.  If you don't know what some of it is just post some pics and
you get lots of opinions...  

As for being intimidated by a larger lathe, remember that the basics are all the same: if you were comfortable with the previous lathe you'll be fine with this one.  You have things to learn about the new machine, but that's the fun part.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 2, 2020)

matthewsx said:


> Lets see a picture of the spindle with the chuck removed. The Frankenchuck photo is a little confusing.
> 
> John





Nogoingback said:


> It will be interesting to see what you have there once the chuck is removed.  I'm curious about the use of hex bolts
> rather than cap screws (normal for Bison) to hold the chuck on.  As for the other stuff, I agree with mathewsx,
> just hang onto it for a while and sort it out later.  If you don't know what some of it is just post some pics and
> you get lots of opinions...
> ...



Here are three closeup photos.. 1- The Spindle, 2- Bison Chuck Front Model, 3- Bison Chuck Rear View.

I'm sure ill get reprimanded but I had to clean the Spindle with WD40 and an Ultra fine 3M pad...  The Spindle was as bad if not worse than the back of the chuck, it took about 10 minutes of scrubbing to get the old oil off it.. There are no discolored grey shadows in the steel indicating it would have been rust.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 2, 2020)

matthewsx said:


> Get that sucker under power and lets see what you can do with it
> 
> John



My friend, when you see what I can do with this lathe, LOL You'll just lower your head and shake it slow like...

here is my last little project i did... I made Anode Rods out of Rebar for an Electrolytic rust removal tank I built...  For you guessed it... another lathe that this new lathe just replaced. that is the extent of my knowledge of lathes. I made 38 of them in varying lengths but I used a tap & die set for the threads... this go around I will learn how to make the threads on the lathe too..!

That will also be the first project for this new lathe, Ill turn down rebar and thread it on the lathe, but this time it is for holding wood shelves to a wall for floating shelves i'm making for my new home.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 3, 2020)

mikey said:


> I looked at the manual and it calls out a D1-4 spindle so I must be wrong but I don't see any camlock cams on the rim of the chuck in the picture shown so how is the chuck being held onto the spindle?



Thanks you sir for posting that PDF manual for the lathe.. Much appreciated.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 5, 2020)

Hello...
Just figured I would post a couple Pic's for Archival record...

Motor removed from lathe for cleaning and to install a new 12/3 25Ft cord with Nema 6-15 plug.




Power Box Wiring. NOTE: I will replace with a better focused one in the morning.




While I was rewiring the 220V lines and checking the power box I found the Cabinet 220v Ground wire was lose from its crimped connector, along with several wire hold down screws that were not fully secured.  But the worst of potential issues I found was the blue - hot leg wires plastic retaining case was severed which sits just over where the the lose ground I found is... glad I found that now.




This is the original motor to the lath.




A close-up of the motor plate.

Its interesting they call this a 1.5 HP motor when it uses over 2KW,  Common Math Says 220V X 9.4 amps = 2068 Watts / 746 watts per HP = 2.7Hp, Weird right..? Ill check with my amp meter tomorrow, the 9.4 amps is probably just FLA for the motor starting up.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 6, 2020)

Hi all...

Need some help locating replacement *Terminal Blocks* for the power distribution lines.. Any help with this would be appreciated..! I checked Grizzly Parts Site with no luck...

I need to replace a few of them... Ageing has made them really fragile, I cracked two of them while trying to fix one. They will be fine for now and wont effect the operation of the lathe but will need to be replaced to be in top shape.

On another note, I got allot done on the lathe today... Ill be test running the lathe tomorrow to check my work.




While I was cleaning grime off the motor casing I was amazed to find chips and oil inside the fan shroud..




I also have to make a new transparent chip guard for the cross slide gear, Honestly don't know why I need to see it but there must be some reason.


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## matthewsx (Sep 6, 2020)

Here you go









						McMaster-Carr
					

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




					www.mcmaster.com


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## matthewsx (Sep 6, 2020)

I really like McMaster-Carr for their detailed descriptions, easy search, and no BS ordering. Often get stuff the next day and shipping is reasonable.

John


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## Tozguy (Sep 6, 2020)

Mr Mike said:


> I also have to make a new transparent chip guard for the cross slide gear, Honestly don't know why I need to see it but there must be some reason.


No reason that I know of. Mine is made of sheet metal and it has not cracked.
Have any plexiglas bits fallen into the apron gears?


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## kb58 (Sep 6, 2020)

Another source is Digikey.com, though be prepared to have your head explode, as there is such a thing as too much to choose from.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 6, 2020)

matthewsx said:


> I really like McMaster-Carr for their detailed descriptions, easy search, and no BS ordering. Often get stuff the next day and shipping is reasonable.
> 
> John



Thank you.. perfect.



Tozguy said:


> Have any plexiglas bits fallen into the apron gears?



Hello, I Just found that along with a few other issues while cleaning and doing a complete once over after purchase. I don't believe so. Maybe I should fashion one out of aluminum.

Lol I could have avoided all this if I had patience to wait for the PM 12 X 28 to arrive, oh well pros and cons of life...!



kb58 said:


> Another source is Digikey.com, though be prepared to have your head explode, as there is such a thing as too much to choose from.



Oh yes Digikey is a monster, But I doubt even they will have an exact replacement bus system. thanks for the heads up sir.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 6, 2020)

Thought you guys might like to see all the lathe graffiti before I clean it off the lathe... Im guessing its been there since day one, and its not limited to just the lathe, its on the chucks and many tools too..! Kinda neat but not my speed.











Thanks for looking..


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## Mr Mike (Sep 6, 2020)

Good morning all...

I would like to get this face plate reprinted, I was thinking of using my Graphics program to recreate this in detail but I have no idea who can print this back onto the aluminum so I can keep the stamped date and serial number... 

The previous owner of the lathe used paint or a sharpie to blackout the Enco Logo, and made in china text, no idea why. I'm sure if i print this out on a plastic sheet it wont last long... any Idea who does this sort of work...? Thanks for looking.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 7, 2020)

The motor is all clean up, reinstalled and tested... I even splurged and upgraded to a new belt. There is still tons of cleaning left to do on the lathe, I've already spent the weekend cleaning and just barely made a dent in it...

Also I am going to buy the reprinted manual for this lathe, and I'm in need of a simple beginner lathe hand book too. It's kinda funny.. Size wise this 12 X 36 lathe is to my 9 X 20 what the 9 X 20 was to my 7 X 14 lathe, It seems like a really big leap in size, and the fit and finish isn't so bad on this lathe.

I thought it would be a good Idea to post a nice clear photo for other Enco people with this same motor to see the motor wired for 220V with easy to identify color coding purposely adjusted for clarity in the photo.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 7, 2020)

Hello all..

I'm in need of Tips & Tricks advice, whats the best cover for the lathe, it will be sharing space with other Wood Machine Tools... Not to mention this is Las Vegas, A warm dry dusty environment.. I would like to keep the lathe as ready for use as possible after sitting clean an all oiled up..

I'm sure the ways oil will attract wood and dust while sitting...?  And i'm sure others have the same issue and solution, any suggestions would be appreciated. 

Thanks Mike


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## NCjeeper (Sep 7, 2020)

Maybe a car cover for a smart car? That way it breaths but will keep your saw dust off of it.


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## Tozguy (Sep 8, 2020)

Any cover that is large enough and breaths should work. I prefer the flat style as opposed to a fitted one because it is easier to put one and remove & fold. A synthetic fibre would absorb less oil than a cotton bed sheet for example. I use a retired fly sheet from a tent that does not breath, But my shop is climate controlled so there is no condensation. Las Vegas should be dry enough not to have to worry about condensation either.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 10, 2020)

Hello all... The lathe is coming along, I am currently stuck on Roll Pins and their removal...

So I need to remove some roll pins that hold parts to this lathe, such as but not limited to the cross slide handle, there is not any chance on this planet that I'm using a hammer to remove it, I have a couple ideas for making a tool to gently remove them but why reinvent the wheel... so I thought surely others have had this problem solved.

If you happen to know the trick and like sharing please post it here... thank you.

If not Ill just drill out a C clamp and turn it into a Pin pusher, then after the lathe is all back together ill make a tool just for that.


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## mikey (Sep 10, 2020)

I just use a Mayhew roll pin punch and a small ball pein hammer.  Works for me.


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## darkzero (Sep 10, 2020)

Mr Mike said:


> Hello all..
> 
> I'm in need of Tips & Tricks advice, whats the best cover for the lathe, it will be sharing space with other Wood Machine Tools... Not to mention this is Las Vegas, A warm dry dusty environment.. I would like to keep the lathe as ready for use as possible after sitting clean an all oiled up..
> 
> ...



Some people use bbq grill covers but they are limited sizes & most come in a fitted shape.

I use these covers by HTC called Tool Savers when I need to cover up my machines. They're breathable (although I don't have a humidity problem in my area) & they have magnets sewn into the corners to help keep them in place. They're not cheap compared to other things you can use but I like them. Prices have gone up a bit over the years though. I believe I got all of mine on Amazon. I've also got some smaller ones not shown.

(The one on the lathe shown below is their largest one & is not the size I normally use for it. I bought this jumbo one to try out, it's a bit too big for my liking. Not a big deal but it takes more work to fold it up & put away.)


----------



## darkzero (Sep 10, 2020)

Keith Fenner has a Rutland 1236 that is pretty much identical to yours. I specifically remember that style motor mount. He made a few videos about the things he did to his.


----------



## Tozguy (Sep 10, 2020)

Mr Mike said:


> If not Ill just drill out a C clamp and turn it into a Pin pusher, then after the lathe is all back together ill make a tool just for that.


Sounds like a neat project, good idea!


----------



## Papa Charlie (Sep 10, 2020)

For a cover, I use one of HF's moving blankets over my lathe. It protects the lathe from dirt and dust, is padded so protects from impacts and is dirt cheap.

HF Moving Blankets


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 10, 2020)

darkzero said:


> Keith Fenner has a Rutland 1236 that is pretty much identical to yours. I specifically remember that style motor mount. He made a few videos about the things he did to his.



Thank you, Ill check out his channel...


----------



## Papa Charlie (Sep 10, 2020)

Mr Mike said:


> Hello all... The lathe is coming along, I am currently stuck on Roll Pins and their removal...
> 
> So I need to remove some roll pins that hold parts to this lathe, such as but not limited to the cross slide handle, there is not any chance on this planet that I'm using a hammer to remove it, I have a couple ideas for making a tool to gently remove them but why reinvent the wheel... so I thought surely others have had this problem solved.
> 
> ...



If you are not using a roll pin punch to remove them, chances are they are expanding from what ever you are using, even if it is a flat faced punch. Roll pin punches have a small ball that fits into the inside diameter and a flat face that sits on the shoulder of the pin. They will come out much easier with the right tool.


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 10, 2020)

Papa Charlie said:


> If you are not using a roll pin punch to remove them, chances are they are expanding from what ever you are using, even if it is a flat faced punch. Roll pin punches have a small ball that fits into the inside diameter and a flat face that sits on the shoulder of the pin. They will come out much easier with the right tool.



Thank you Papa for responding, No EXPANDING pins here or issues as yet. I have removed Roll Pins from many a device with Punches in the past, which is why I would like to find a better more gentle way... The parts in question are the cross slide handle which hangs way out in the open without good support, along with the control handles on the apron & head to paint.

Thanks, Mike.


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 12, 2020)

This lathe thinks its funny and is leaking gear oil from more than one place on the gearhead.. This one is just full of surprise's. cleaning tools before you use them is a sure fire way of finding issues. I think Tubal Cain would be proud of me.

On another note while cleaning, unless the factory does hand scraping then someone else did so on the cross slide and gib. There is a gib between the backlash nuts that I have not see on any of my other lathes

After getting the cross slide back on and tuned up, its a bit tight but smooth and the best I can do is .0007 of back lash without it causing the screw to bind some. it use to be .0032... Assuming the dial separations are in thousands.


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 13, 2020)

Hello all...

For now I want to use a cheap chuck other than the expensive Bison chuck that came on the lathe, I have another 3 jaw but while it was disassembled for cleaning I noticed a big ding on the chuck back plate, I chucked it up to see how bad the run-out on the face would be... its out by .0002

I removed the chuck back plate and checked the Lathe Spindle just to see, and the needle just barely moves, more like vibrations... I put the chuck back plate back on with same result, out by about .0002 and the circumference by .0001

Is that amount of run-out acceptable for a cheap chuck, mostly for doing test cuts and trying my hand at threading not more than say 3 or 4 inches from the jaws..?

I should be finished cleaning up the lathe tomorrow and would like the play machinist on some Rebar for some fun.


----------



## matthewsx (Sep 13, 2020)

What tolerance is acceptable is a direct function of how accurate you need the finished part to be. I suspect you will be fine for getting started and can improve things as needed

John


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 13, 2020)

matthewsx said:


> What tolerance is acceptable is a direct function of how accurate you need the finished part to be. I suspect you will be fine for getting started and can improve things as needed
> 
> John


Thanks for the reply.. This thing is night and day bigger then my 9" X 20" so I'm just dying to test it out, Hoping tomorrow is the big day.


----------



## Tozguy (Sep 13, 2020)

That amount of run out on the chuck is fine for most purposes. Run out is irrelevant as long as the work stays in the chuck.


----------



## matthewsx (Sep 13, 2020)

Mr Mike said:


> Thanks for the reply.. This thing is night and day bigger then my 9" X 20" so I'm just dying to test it out, Hoping tomorrow is the big day.


I've been working on my 13x40, traded for a 6" Craftsman....

Midnight and noon?


John


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 13, 2020)

Tozguy said:


> That amount of run out on the chuck is fine for most purposes. Run out is irrelevant as long as the work stays in the chuck.


Hi... I believe this chuck hit the floor, quite the ding it has.

Thanks for the info.. Its currently soaking in evapo rust, after its done Ill repack with grease and slap it on the lathe, good way to learn.  I think it was the chuck that comes with the lath new. Off the bat it will be holding rebar so I won't notice the run-out anyways I guess.

Also I got lucky sifting threw some of the box's I got with the lathe, and found the original hex cap screws for the chuck that was on the lathe when I bought it, Its a bison that mikey pointed out to me.. I took it apart too and it has run-out adjustment screws, so ill save it for down the road.

Have a great day.


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 13, 2020)

Hi all, I just found where one two of the leaks is coming from in gearhead, not an instant fix so I wont get to use the lathe this weekend, Bummer.

I removed the data plate from the front of the lathe and cleaned the front area up, went and got some gear oil and filled it to the center of the sight glass, wiped down the whole Gearhead and all the drips in the pan and ran the lathe for about 10 minutes...

Of the 4 possible places its leaking two of them are pin pointed.. Your not going to believe this but one of the leaks is from the bottom of the sight glass its self and the other is coming from the both, Possible 3 gear change levers at the top of the Gearhead. that leave two other areas that have oil drips, one from the rear behind the power box leaking on the motor and another just to the left of the threading gear change box.

Its one thing to spend a million hours when you buy an old lathe you intend to restore and another when you buy a used lathe and you find all these problems while cleaning it that need attention. lol I imagine this is a common problem with this model lathe. good thing I took off the data plate or i would have never found it.

On a good note I found the original Hex cap screws that go to my FrankenChuck when i was going through some of the box's I got with the lathe when I bought it. I was a short lived happy moment.

Thanks go out to mikey that pointed out that its a bison chuck - Ill get it all fixed and polished up like new for future use..

Thanks for stopping by, Mr Mike.


----------



## matthewsx (Sep 13, 2020)

Those don't look too bad, most lathes leak at least some, I bought a 5 gallon bucket of oil from Tractor Supply which should last several oil changes and like a British car when it stops leaking check the oil....






						VP Racing Fuels J20A Plus Utility Tractor Fluid 5 gal., VP2040014 at Tractor Supply Co.
					

Buy Great Customer Service VP Racing Fuels J20A Plus Utility Tractor Fluid 5 gal., VP2040014 in the Hydraulic Fluids category at Tractor Su




					www.tractorsupply.com
				




My vote is to just start using it and not worry about a few leaks or scratched up data plates, it's really just a tool, so if you can make stuff then that's pretty much all you can ask of it.

I didn't even have the apron attached to the carriage when I made my first chips today  


John


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## Mr Mike (Sep 14, 2020)

matthewsx said:


> Those don't look too bad, most lathes leak at least some, I bought a 5 gallon bucket of oil from Tractor Supply which should last several oil changes and like a British car when it stops leaking check the oil....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I do like your attitude and motivation... And on paper while I'm all in favor of your Vote to jump on it and start making chips, I cant..! I have a mild case of OCD and that prevents me from running my new tool... when I get a new tool it needs to be functionally correct and clean, Not pretty so much as clean. And if I don't fix it up now, because I know me... it wont ever get fixed, which is why I have that rule. 

Not only that, If you noticed the leak is just over the electrical switches, if it is getting into the switch then it could act as a bridge and start the machine unexpectedly and that is a potential hazard. I can certainly run the machine without the Data Plate attached.

While I was out today getting some Evapo-Rust for the Chuck I did pickup some Rebar so ill be ready when the machine is.

Your a funny guy... I loved the  " I didn't even have the apron attached to the carriage when I made my first chips today  " That my friend is good stuff right there.

Thank you for stopping and checking on me, Mr Mike.


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 14, 2020)

Need a recommendation for a high quality bras ball oilier for the lathe... one that doesn't leak all over your hands and fingers when you tip it or pump it. ive had 3 different ones and they all have leaked and are messy...  Thanks.


----------



## mikey (Sep 14, 2020)

Reilang oilers are the best I've used. Sold on eBay. They don't leak, work sideways and upside down and are rebuildable.


----------



## ACHiPo (Sep 14, 2020)

Yes another vote for Reilang.  Jens Putzler is great to deal with, too.








						Jens Putzier Tools
					

✅ Buy your German tools right here ✅ Hazet, Stahlwille, Knipex, Reilang authorised dealer ✅ We are engineers ✅ Fair prices ✅ Fast shipping from…




					www.jensputzier.com


----------



## Papa Charlie (Sep 14, 2020)

If the lathe has sat for any period of time, seals can dry out and cause leaks. I would just use the lathe and maybe a little heat and oil will help seal them up some. For the sight glass, at least on my Grizzly and a few other mfgs, the sight glass is the drain plug for changing the oil. Not sure about yours but it could just need to be pulled and cleaned.


----------



## macardoso (Sep 14, 2020)

Mr Mike said:


> This lathe thinks its funny and is leaking gear oil from more than one place on the gearhead.. This one is just full of surprise's. cleaning tools before you use them is a sure fire way of finding issues. I think Tubal Cain would be proud of me.
> 
> On another note while cleaning, unless the factory does hand scraping then someone else did so on the cross slide and gib. There is a gib between the backlash nuts that I have not see on any of my other lathes
> 
> ...



I have the 12x36 belt drive version of this lathe. It is factory "scraped" but is neither true nor flat.They do it for the oil bearing only.


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 14, 2020)

mikey said:


> Reilang oilers are the best I've used. Sold on eBay. They don't leak, work sideways and upside down and are rebuildable.





ACHiPo said:


> Yes another vote for Reilang.  Jens Putzler is great to deal with, too.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Ordered the R01 - From Jens Putzler Done. 68.00 and worth every penny I bet.
Also saw on there site the mist oiler, was thinking that might come in handy for screw cutting and what not...?

Thanks for the help, appreciated.


----------



## NCjeeper (Sep 14, 2020)

Mr Mike said:


> Need a recommendation for a high quality bras ball oilier for the lathe...


I like the old Eagle 66 cans.


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 14, 2020)

Papa Charlie said:


> If the lathe has sat for any period of time, seals can dry out and cause leaks. I would just use the lathe and maybe a little heat and oil will help seal them up some. For the sight glass, at least on my Grizzly and a few other mfgs, the sight glass is the drain plug for changing the oil. Not sure about yours but it could just need to be pulled and cleaned.



I have a drain plug on the back of the Gearhead.. Iv'e ran the machine for about an hour combined, testing and tuning all my setting.. Only thing that worries me is its leaking right over the control panel, would be fun if the lathe just started up on its own.

Thank for the extra info sir.


----------



## ACHiPo (Sep 14, 2020)

Mr Mike said:


> Ordered the R01 - From Jens Putzler Done. 68.00 and worth every penny I bet.
> Also saw on there site the mist oiler, was thinking that might come in handy for screw cutting and what not...?
> 
> Thanks for the help, appreciated.


I bought my first Reilang oiler a couple years ago.  Seemed to work ok, but wasn't crazy about the feel of it--it would kind of stick, then when I overcame the stiction it would spray oil.  I needed a second one for my new lathe and ordered it.  It's amazing--I understand what all the shouting's about now--smooth gradual oil delivery.  I sent Jens an email and he immediately sent me a replacement for my first oiler.  I had it in 3 days from Germany.  Couldn't be happier with the customer service.  Oh and now both oilers work great.


----------



## mikey (Sep 14, 2020)

Mr Mike said:


> Ordered the R01 - From Jens Putzler Done. 68.00 and worth every penny I bet.
> Also saw on there site the mist oiler, was thinking that might come in handy for screw cutting and what not...?
> 
> Thanks for the help, appreciated.



Mike, you may find that the shape of the tip of the oiler may not mate well with your ball oiler orifice. Mine didn't but I have an Austrian-made lathe that may use different shaped oiler ports. In any case, the tips are made of brass and are easily shaped with a file. I simply rounded the tip lightly and it fit perfectly. I can give a full squeeze to the handle and get no leaks around the tip. 

I own two Reilangs, one for hydraulic oil and one for way oil. They both work flawlessly. If I need a drop, I get a drop. If I need more, I get more and I can get it no matter which way I hold the can. And I haven't had a leak in over 7 years now. Awesome products!

Jens is really good to work with as Evan said.


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 14, 2020)

mikey said:


> Mike, you may find that the shape of the tip of the oiler may not mate well with your ball oiler orifice. Mine didn't but I have an Austrian-made lathe that may use different shaped oiler ports. In any case, the tips are made of brass and are easily shaped with a file. I simply rounded the tip lightly and it fit perfectly. I can give a full squeeze to the handle and get no leaks around the tip.
> 
> I own two Reilangs, one for hydraulic oil and one for way oil. They both work flawlessly. If I need a drop, I get a drop. If I need more, I get more and I can get it no matter which way I hold the can. And I haven't had a leak in over 7 years now. Awesome products!
> 
> Jens is really good to work with as Evan said.


Mikey thanks for the tips, Its allot of bucks, but I bought it because you and ACHiPo both said its a good one, I know you guys would immediately understand and hate like I do the junk ones that leak all over the place.

The one I got isn't the flexible wand kind, but since its Omni directional it should be fine...  I'm sure ill love it.


----------



## mikey (Sep 14, 2020)

Oh, trust me, we understand.


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 14, 2020)

Hi all...

I like Evapo-Rust, does a pretty good job getting rust off parts, you can polish them up pretty good after too... But its not near as fun as say Electrolysis where you get to do a bit of science, and the parts seem to polish ip a little better.

I'm going to use the original chuck that I think shipped with the lathe originally, to start learning how to thread with. It doesn't look to bad for a 25 yr old chuck after spending the night in Evapo-Rust. There is a dent at the rear of it that adds a couple thousand to the run-out.

The Bison chuck is too big to submerge all the pieces so will have to be done n increments, Ill make a new Electrolysis tank soon because I have allot of parts that need to get cleaned, and doing them a few at a time this way will take forever.


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 15, 2020)

matthewsx said:


> Those don't look too bad, most lathes leak at least some, I bought a 5 gallon bucket of oil from Tractor Supply which should last several oil changes and like a British car when it stops leaking check the oil....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Just for you, I faced some 1/2" Rebar this afternoon... After I put the 3 jaw back together I tested it to make sure the grease was working.

The new grease appears to be working fine...  Now back to repairs,


----------



## Mtnmac (Sep 15, 2020)

I bought the same lathe last year.  It was in worse condition, and I paid more.  Mine did come with a 5C collet closer and a bunch of collets though.  I fixed my major oil leak in the headstock by replacing a seal.  The other headstock leaks are minor, I just live with them.  I do have a major leak in the carriage i have not fixed yet.  I added a plywood back to the lathe and a drawer to hold the collets.   Did you get the metric change gears with your lathe?  If so, I would be interested in some dimensions so I can make some for myself.  Here’s a picture:


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 15, 2020)

Mtnmac said:


> I bought the same lathe last year.  It was in worse condition, and I paid more.  Mine did come with a 5C collet closer and a bunch of collets though.  I fixed my major oil leak in the headstock by replacing a seal.  The other headstock leaks are minor, I just live with them.  I do have a major leak in the carriage i have not fixed yet.  I added a plywood back to the lathe and a drawer to hold the collets.   Did you get the metric change gears with your lathe?  If so, I would be interested in some dimensions so I can make some for myself.  Here’s a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Are you kidding yours looks like its the spitting image of mine right off my truck when I got it home... lol yours is worse.. then how come mine leaks every where., including the sight glass that is supposed to be a none removable item...

I like your Collet Holder, and you have the chip guard too, Mine just came with extra hieroglyphics all over the lathe and a ridiculously priced bison chuck...

I do have some gears in the box's and if their metric ill let you know, happy to help out.


----------



## darkzero (Sep 15, 2020)

Mtnmac said:


> I bought the same lathe last year.  It was in worse condition...





Mr Mike said:


> Are you kidding yours looks like its the spitting image of mine right of my truck when i got it home... lol yours is worse...



Haha, you guys are funny!   This guy beats the both of you! I don't know him, just been seeing it on my IG feed. Not an Enco I don't think but pretty much the same lathe. He's overseas somewhere.


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 15, 2020)

darkzero said:


> Haha, you guys are funny!   This guy beats the both of you! I don't know him, just been seeing it on my IG feed. Not an Enco I don't think but pretty much the same lathe. He's overseas somewhere.
> 
> View attachment 337074
> View attachment 337075


OMG stop.... My jaw muscles hurt from laughing..!
That makes ours look factory new compared to that, wholly molly ill never complain again for I have truly been blessed. That should be a sticky on the forums somewhere. That will shed light on anyone that thinks they own an ugly machine.

That must have been a fire damage... Wonder if it will still work..


----------



## darkzero (Sep 15, 2020)

Yes, he stated fire damage but says salvageable & really only needs the electrical replaced, rest is cosmetic. I sure hope so, looks like a lot of work. His profile says he's in Denmark. Here's his IG if you were interested in following his progress. Only 2 posts on it so far though.


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## Tozguy (Sep 15, 2020)

Mr Mike said:


> leaks every where., including the sight glass that is supposed to be a none removable item...


Never saw a sight glass that was not removable. Mine are removable and one had to be reinstalled with some fresh caulking for it to stop leaking.


----------



## matthewsx (Sep 15, 2020)

I unscrewed mine and replaced the “gasket” with an o-ring. Once I cleaned it I realized why so little oil come out when I drained it. It was stained

John


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 15, 2020)

Mtnmac said:


> Did you get the metric change gears with your lathe?  If so, I would be interested in some dimensions so I can make some for myself.


I found these in the tool box that matched the lathe color so I guess these are the metric threading gears that came with the lathe, Look these over and see if they are the metric ones you need to get measurements from - 1 says M 1.5 so these may be them... they were all wrapped in the factory wax paper... There is a z25.. z26.. z43.. z46.. z47.. z60.. I think they may be the metric ones your looking for... let me know.


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 15, 2020)

Tozguy said:


> Never saw a sight glass that was not removable. Mine are removable and one had to be reinstalled with some fresh caulking for it to stop leaking.


I do have much to learn about this machine, I certainly wasn't expecting to find a leak at the sight glass, who would have guessed.

Thanks for dropping in and checking on me, I obviously need all the help I can get...


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 15, 2020)

darkzero said:


> Yes, he stated fire damage but says salvageable & really only needs the electrical replaced, rest is cosmetic. I sure hope so, looks like a lot of work. His profile says he's in Denmark. Here's his IG if you were interested in following his progress. Only 2 posts on it so far though.


I just may well, I love seeing machines brought back to life... Thanks.


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 16, 2020)

I so really need to find a lathes for dummy's book or take a trip to Mikeys house for some basic schooling... I went through one of the box's and plastic case today and pulled out these QCTP tool holders, Im pretty sure these are all the tool holders but their could be a couple strays in the other box's. It looks like ill have a good assortment to start out with but honestly I should probably learn the basics of cutting before attempting to use these..

I saw an forum post by Mikey about learning to grind HSS, I think ill start there. lol other than prettying my lathe up I really have no business using it except for maybe familiarizing my self with it operation and what controls do what.. I have no real training with lathes except playing with them, so as soon as this ones all cleaned up it will get placed in its spot and covered, till I learn some basics.


----------



## mikey (Sep 16, 2020)

Wow, nice collection! If you can make it to Hawaii, I would love to spend some time with you, Mike. Short of that, I assure you that if you ask for help, you will get it. We have some really knowledgeable guys on this forum and they will bend over backwards to help you. 

As for a "lathes for dummies" book, the classic text is South Bend's "How To Run a Lathe". You can get reprints on ebay and it is worth a read. Just remember that they didn't use quick change tool posts or shape HSS tools the way we do today so things have changed a little but the meat of running a lathe is in that book. 

As for tools, your lathe is big and rigid enough to use carbide, especially if the work piece you use allows you to get enough speed. If you plan to work with smaller diameters, say 1" and below, then HSS might just be the ticket. We can give you a hand on the model tools thread; lots of guys started from zero there and have become accomplished tool grinders so you'll have a lot of help. I will also be happy to discuss tool grinding with you there, too. 

Learning to run a lathe is not difficult. You will find that the lathe is the best teacher of all machine tools once you figure out how to decipher what it is telling you. 

Another way you can access help is to PM any member that you feel comfortable with. Sometimes that works the best and a lot of info can be exchanged one on one. If I can help, PM me.


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 17, 2020)

mikey said:


> Wow, nice collection! If you can make it to Hawaii, I would love to spend some time with you, Mike. Short of that, I assure you that if you ask for help, you will get it. We have some really knowledgeable guys on this forum and they will bend over backwards to help you.
> 
> As for a "lathes for dummies" book, the classic text is South Bend's "How To Run a Lathe". You can get reprints on ebay and it is worth a read. Just remember that they didn't use quick change tool posts or shape HSS tools the way we do today so things have changed a little but the meat of running a lathe is in that book.
> 
> ...



lol I went looking for the south bend lathe book and ran across Mr Pete's Viemo video South Bend video... It costs $1000.00 to view it.. I think ill buy the book... problem i ran into is there are many versions of it.. and you point me to the right one so i can buy it ... Thank you.


----------



## mikey (Sep 17, 2020)

They are all over ebay but the cheapest reprint I was able to find is available on Amazon and I would get it there. You can get an original for varying prices on ebay but unless you are a stickler for original prints, Amazon is cheaper and the info is the same.


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 18, 2020)

Thanks Mikey... Ordered the one from the link... thought you wanted me to get a South Bend one, but this looks good too. and will be here sunday.


----------



## mikey (Sep 18, 2020)

That reprint will be the same information as found in the original South Bend publication at a fraction of the cost. Plus, it won't be falling apart when you open it!


----------



## Mtnmac (Sep 18, 2020)

Mr Mike said:


> I found these in the tool box that matched the lathe color so I guess these are the metric threading gears that came with the lathe, Look these over and see if they are the metric ones you need to get measurements from - 1 says M 1.5 so these may be them... they were all wrapped in the factory wax paper... There is a z25.. z26.. z43.. z46.. z47.. z60.. I think they may be the metric ones your looking for... let me know.
> 
> View attachment 337126
> 
> ...


Yes, those are them.  If you could give me the outer diameter, thickness, and hole diameter of each one, that would be great.  Then I just need to figure out which gear cutter to use.  Thanks!  Interesting that some don’t have keyways.


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 19, 2020)

Hello everyone..

How many of you guys get gummy bears with your Reilang oil can order...) I received it in four days form over seas, just amazing.
Here is what I think now that its here.

As long as its filled full I can tip it to get all the ball oilers.. I may order the flex tube thou, And an oil mister.
The oil tip fits my Ball Oilers snug and held its position once the Ball is depressed.
I purposely put the oil can on its side for 10 minutes, when I came to check on it there was no oil puddles.
The operation of the oil pump handle is smooth and consistent through its full travel allowing control of the oil being dispensed.
Heavy industrial feel but out weights its contents short of mercury, so you cant tell when to refill.

So far so good.

Oh before I forget, I learned small but valuable lathe lesson today, The fastest surefire way to get any oil off your chuck and onto everything else is forget and leave the lathe in high gear after the previous nights wipe down... I need to get in the habit of switching to low gear after each use..!  Ill put that on my stupid mistake rule list,

New List...
1. Wear eye protection even if your just cleaning the lathe.
2. Set lathe spindle speed to low after your done using it.
3. Remove excess oil from between Jaws and chuck face.


----------



## mikey (Sep 19, 2020)

Wow, I feel cheated - I didn't get any Gummy Bears with my order! Must be a 2020 thing. 

Once the internal reservoir is full it will pump in any position, even upside down. You don't need to fill it full. Just put some in there and pump until oil comes out and the reservoir is full enough to work in any position.

Oh yeah, we all learn the oil-flinging trick very early on and I have the striped T-shirts to prove it!


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 19, 2020)

Mtnmac said:


> Yes, those are them.  If you could give me the outer diameter, thickness, and hole diameter of each one, that would be great.  Then I just need to figure out which gear cutter to use.  Thanks!  Interesting that some don’t have keyways.


Hello...
No problem, soon as I get a chance ill post the dimensions of those gears, Its a good idea as other people with this lathe may need them too..!


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 19, 2020)

mikey said:


> Wow, I feel cheated - I didn't get any Gummy Bears with my order! Must be a 2020 thing.
> 
> Once the internal reservoir is full it will pump in any position, even upside down. You don't need to fill it full. Just put some in there and pump until oil comes out and the reservoir is full enough to work in any position.
> 
> Oh yeah, we all learn the oil-flinging trick very early on and I have the striped T-shirts to prove it!


Maybe because I have way oil in mine it wont hold a charge, I dunno but mine wont do that... Ill test it again but pretty sure mine wont do that, I get that it should. I got the regular R01, Maybe its different. What model do you have..?


----------



## matthewsx (Sep 19, 2020)

Did you put the Gummies in there? Maybe they're not for eating....


----------



## Mr Mike (Sep 19, 2020)

matthewsx said:


> Did you put the Gummies in there? Maybe they're not for eating....


I tried to read the packing slip but it wasn't in English.. Besides the Gummies were defective and I... Uhmm... Got ride if them..!

On a serious note... My oiler absolutely positively does not work inverted after being fully primed... I'm sad. I looked for a ball in the end of the siphon tube and didn't see one, but it pumps fine with a predictable stream each pump. Oh well.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 20, 2020)

Hey all...
So about the somewhat tarnished old looking bison 3 jaw 6 1/4" SET-TRU chuck that's currently under going an EvapOrust treatment... I was having an issue finding a chuck that looked like mine so I could find out exactly what it is...  That's because you buy the chuck and the back plate separately to fit your lathe.

I could not find a matching model number on the net so I went on Bisons site and all SET-TRU chucks are the fine adjustment types. I searched the web for it and grizzly popped up with a Set-Tru 6-1/4" 3 Jaw chuck, I look at the photo and you can bearly see it in the photo but there chuck unlike other ones I found on Ebay use, like mine a number set and a 2 digit number below it...

So I visually compared my chuck to their chuck and my back plate to their back in the photo and they look the same, the chuck is on sale for $875.00 and the Bison Back plate needed for a D1-4 lathe is $368.00, not on sale the chuck is almost $1000.00, That just blows my mind since the chuck I have on the lathe right now cost $199.00 not on sale... Can there really be that big a quality difference..? 

Now of course I could be wrong...  if i'm right though, well.. then the SET-TRU chuck that came on my lathe cost new about what I paid for the lathe... Assuming I was in the market to buy one....

When I get the Bison chuck all polished up and back together Ill post photos of the chuck and back plate separated.

Just sheer craziness I tell ya.. Honestly I think someone more capable and deserving probably should have gotten this lathe, It will be years before I truly can appreciate what I got here... Don't get me wrong thou shes growing on me, and I'm glad I got it.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 21, 2020)

So I have a pretty good Before and After photo for the Bison 3 jaw, Its all back together after a 3 day spa treatment in Evapo-Rust, After sitting for 3 days in Evapo-Rust it came out looking like it was Black Anodized from carbon.

Its amazing what a little WD-40 and a ultra fine Scotch Bright pad will do. It came out better than I thought it would.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 21, 2020)

So I cant just buy a flexible tube to replace the brass tube on my new Reilang oil can, it wont dispense oil inverted. No I'm not going to return it, Its not their fault I picked the wrong one, I should have asked first maybe.

I wont use it cause I'm replacing it, If it wasn't so nice id just trash it.. it was only 40.00 bucks so its not worth selling online.. So I'm trying to figure out what to do with it...


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## ACHiPo (Sep 22, 2020)

Mr Mike said:


> Maybe because I have way oil in mine it wont hold a charge, I dunno but mine wont do that... Ill test it again but pretty sure mine wont do that, I get that it should. I got the regular R01, Maybe its different. What model do you have..?


I got 3 packs with my replacement oiler?


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## Mr Mike (Sep 23, 2020)

ACHiPo said:


> I got 3 packs with my replacement oiler?


So the funny thing is they sell the gummy bears on their website... I am guessing they are being nice and trying to hook you on them....


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## Mr Mike (Sep 23, 2020)

I took apart my Oilier to see why I cannot get it to pump inverted, well at least 1 pump from reserve...

These are the parts, There is no spring to keep the bearing under tension when tilted like there is in the model R03 oilier which has 3 springs, so I picked the wrong model to buy apparently.. My fault..! Maybe ill add a spring, I emailed them for suggestions.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 25, 2020)

Mtnmac said:


> Did you get the metric change gears with your lathe?  If so, I would be interested in some dimensions so I can make some for myself.



My new measuring tools got delivered, so maybe this weekend I can post the dimensions of them.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 25, 2020)

Soooo Mikey..

I emailed and got an answer for the Reilang Oilier I bought - R001, they said that model will not pump if heavily tilted and that I need Model R003 that will... Future Food for thought, lol I should have asked them before I ordered - I saw the two different models, I picked the wrong one.. Ohh well live and learn... 

I ordered the R003 and tonight, they emailed and gave me free shipping on this one.. so all is good, Hope there are more gummy bears too


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## mikey (Sep 25, 2020)

I didn't realize they had a model that didn't pump upside down - my bad. I apologize if I mislead you because both of mine do.


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## Mtnmac (Sep 25, 2020)

Mr Mike said:


> My new measuring tools got delivered, so maybe this weekend I can post the dimensions of them.


No rush, whenever you get time.  Thanks!


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## Mr Mike (Sep 25, 2020)

mikey said:


> I didn't realize they had a model that didn't pump upside down - my bad. I apologize if I mislead you because both of mine do.



Its Murphy's law, No apologize necessary, I asked for suggestions and was pointed in the right direction.

Just figured you would want to know going forward, Here is the email I received from them.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dear Mike,

the situation is that this R001 oiler is not designed to be used in an upside down or heavily tilted position. That is what the double pump oiler R003 was designed for.

Maybe you can try to kind of start pumping and then tilt it, but that is probably rather messy.

Unfortunately the brass tube cannot be exchanged against any other one,

So yes, it looks as if you ordered the wrong oiler. I am very sorry about that.

If it helps I can give you a special price for a 200ml R003-253 of US$ 49.99 shipped.


Mit freundlichen Grüßen/with best regards

Jens Putzier

Jens Putzier Tools
Am Kloster 67
42799 Leichlingen
Germany

email: info@jensputzier.com
webshop for tools www.jensputzier.com


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## Mr Mike (Sep 26, 2020)

Hello all...

So who wants to talk about CBN grinding wheels, The Pros & Cons for using them learn on and grind my own HSS cutting tools so I can start using my super sized Mini Lathe..?

I tried to search the forums to find info on these wheels... to my dismay the forum search engine removes the term CBN from my searches saying its too short or not a word basically, and shows me everything else.

I am currently researching grinders and looking for my next victim shop tool, so I can learn to make my own cutting tools, I have watched the required amount of videos on the subject, from  MrPete, old tony and blondihacks along with a few others... most were easy to follow and clear in purpose of the angles needed to remove the chips while keeping enough meat under the contact surface to cut. 

The videos along with my newly acquired paper back - How To Run A Lathe, which ill later rewrite and call How To Ruin A Lathe - by Mr Mike has I believe has given me enough info to try my hand at it... Seriously I think I got it, well maybe not but we will see.

Ok here is my thoughts about the cons side of CBN grinder wheels... It will add to the cost of what ever grinder I get by about an extra 150.00 bucks for a good 60/80 grit one with a thick 90 Deg corner on it, more if I get one a grit or two up to hone/debure the cutter. 

From what Iv'e read, watched and talked about with the nice salesman at my local WW store today, Thats all the cons with all else being a positive over regular grinding wheels including safety across the board. Iv'e looked at all kinds of grinders and giude jigs, and I think I am ready to order This BuckTool Grinder and getting a Mega 1.5" sharp 90 wheel. 

If anyone has a more well thought out suggestion by all means, please let me know, I would like to hear your thoughts... and what size HSS blanks I should start with... Oh ya it has to be HSS or I void the CBN warranty.. so I cant start with high carbon steel unless I dont use a CBN wheel.

Thank you..


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## mikey (Sep 26, 2020)

I would suggest you email Ken at Woodturner's Wonders and talk to him about a Rikon grinder/CBN package and compare prices. Ken knows CBN wheels - good guy.


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## Mr Mike (Sep 26, 2020)

mikey said:


> I would suggest you email Ken at Woodturner's Wonders and talk to him about a Rikon grinder/CBN package and compare prices. Ken knows CBN wheels - good guy.



I was hoping to get some opinions on CBN vs Stone for shaping HSS lathe tooling... The WW from my post is WoodWorkers Emporium Here In Vegas, They are Big Turners too and sell Rikon Grinders with CBN wheels, Their salesman was trying to talk me into CBN as a sharpening system over Stone... Something seems fishy so I just thought I would get with people here about it. Thanks....


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## Mr Mike (Sep 30, 2020)

Hello People...

Ok I got the new Reilang Oilier delivered..  Here are the Pic's so you can see the diffrence between the R001 left and R003 on the right..

On the R001 the tip of oilier Nipple is .125 and the R003 .132 - Both fit the  .138 ball oiliers on my lathe, but just barely. Ill do some testing when I get a chance and list some details,


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## keeena (Oct 1, 2020)

Just saw this thread now and you update too quickly - your questions have already been answered!  Jens Putzier is great to deal with and a number of German/Euro companies include a small treat. I don't know why the Haribro bears are particularly popular (I've received them from at least 3 or 4 different companies over the years).

I have essentially the same lathe (Grizzly G4003G) so i'll watch this thread. My cliffs:

I use a simple fabric sheet to cover my lathe - really just to keep dust off of it. I use 4 strong magnets on the backsplash. Just flip the front side of the cover over the backsplash. I do have days with temp & humidity swings. No rusting issues. 

If your castings are like mine, the tumbler oil holes (see pic) do not work. That cover comes off easily if you want to check yours. The holes in the cover to not line up with holes in the tumbler casting. It's also not a great design to begin with: oil will drip between the 2 pieces instead of continue into the tumbler casting.

Mine also leaks a little from at least one of the feed/speed handles and the carriage. You do want to watch this because it will seep into the e-stop / jog / power buttons.

Install a spring between the tailstock and bed clamp. It prevents the bed clamp from canting and binding when moving the tailstock back/forth.

I like using red for critical control knobs - easier to recognize quickly in an emergency and adds horsepower. This particular one came in a 3-pack. If your handle threads are M10 and you want one: shoot me a PM and I'll mail it over.

Nice work on cleaning up the chuck!


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## Mr Mike (Oct 1, 2020)

Hello Sir..
Thanks for stopping by, And for offering some excellent tips and tricks for the Enco Lathe.



keeena said:


> Just saw this thread now and you update too quickly - your questions have already been answered!  Jens Putzier is great to deal with and a number of German/Euro companies include a small treat. I don't know why the Haribro bears are particularly popular (I've received them from at least 3 or 4 different companies over the years).


I really don't feel I'm updating too much. Example - the Reilang oilier conveyed to me by members of this forum as the best oilier to buy..! With the advice given me I bought an oilier ( Model R001 ), it will *not* do what I or other forum members expected... Unfortunately searching these forums is hit or miss for me and I did not find any mention of the Type/Model to buy - I place Zero blame on Jens Putzier tools for my incorrect purchase and emailed them to purchase another. I bought the Model R003 after an email exchange with Jen Pitzier.

I thought It would be a wise idea to immediately post my purchase mistake quickly so other's can avoid making a $60.00 dollar purchase mistake..! I have a ton more to post but I have held back posting in fear of over-updating as you suggest.

I wasn't aware I was over-updating... I never received a complaint on my restoration thread of a Logan 1875 lathe or I would be more cautious.

BTW I got 4 packs of gummy bears with my second order... I have not received free snacks before ever in life with a purchase so this was very new to me. I just thought they like Americans... Maybe.



keeena said:


> I have essentially the same lathe (Grizzly G4003G) so i'll watch this thread. My cliffs:


Congratulations on what I believe is your purchase of the perfect size hobby lathe.



keeena said:


> I use a simple fabric sheet to cover my lathe - really just to keep dust off of it. I use 4 strong magnets on the backsplash. Just flip the front side of the cover over the backsplash. I do have days with temp & humidity swings. No rusting issues.


Dust will be the Arch Nemesis for my lathe where I live, I didn't update yet that I purchased the HTC Tool Saver cover for the lathe. after asking for advice on what to get. I am glade to hear that a simple fabric sheet works for you to keep your lathe clean.



keeena said:


> If your castings are like mine, the tumbler oil holes (see pic) do not work. That cover comes off easily if you want to check yours. The holes in the cover to not line up with holes in the tumbler casting. It's also not a great design to begin with: oil will drip between the 2 pieces instead of continue into the tumbler casting.


While our castings are definitely not the same, My tumbler holes may prove to be as ineffective as yours. I hope not...!



keeena said:


> Mine also leaks a little from at least one of the feed/speed handles and the carriage. You do want to watch this because it will seep into the e-stop / jog / power buttons.


It has been suggested I not worry about that or other oil leaks in preceding posts, I have posted my concern about that exact issue and will not use the lathe until I have solved at least the leaks over the button control panel.



keeena said:


> Install a spring between the tailstock and bed clamp. It prevents the bed clamp from canting and binding when moving the tailstock back/forth.


An absolute brilliant idea, Thank you.



keeena said:


> I like using red for critical control knobs - easier to recognize quickly in an emergency and adds horsepower. This particular one came in a 3-pack. If your handle threads are M10 and you want one: shoot me a PM and I'll mail it over.


I like your thinking, Your light years ahead of me on safety.. Thanks for the heads up.



keeena said:


> Nice work on cleaning up the chuck!


Thank you. I am proud of how it came out, its going in a protective cover until I am ready, understand and capable of using it effectively.

Again thanks for stopping by and sharing, I do appreciate it. Ill check your thread and see what else I can learn.


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## keeena (Oct 1, 2020)

Ah, I probably wasn't clear. I just meant that I saw the thread and every question you had got resolved fast...that was all. I'd read a post, want to reply, then saw it was answered a few posts later. Haha. But its what makes this board great - fast and helpful members. There's no such thing as updating tools or posts too much or too fast.  Sorry it was interpreted that you were posting too much.

I've had the G4003G for a bit over a year. It's a great lathe for hobbyist; you got yourself a good one there. I also posted about leaky oil a while back but told if it ain't pouring out, don't worry about it. Still bothers me though. OCD and all.


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## Mr Mike (Oct 2, 2020)

keeena said:


> Ah, I probably wasn't clear. I just meant that I saw the thread and every question you had got resolved fast...that was all. I'd read a post, want to reply, then saw it was answered a few posts later. Haha. But its what makes this board great - fast and helpful members. There's no such thing as updating tools or posts too much or too fast.  *Sorry it was interpreted that you were posting too much*.
> 
> I've had the G4003G for a bit over a year. It's a great lathe for hobbyist; you got yourself a good one there. *I also posted about leaky oil a while back but told if it ain't pouring out, don't worry about it. *Still bothers me though. OCD and all.


It's easy to misconstrue written words in a forum sometimes... Usually its me over thinking it as is the case here. Thanks..!
I haven't found an area on my lathe yet that doesn't leak some, while it doesn't seem to bother other people it really bothers me allot.
It's nice meeting you..


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## Mr Mike (Jan 17, 2022)

> keeena said:
> 
> 
> > Ah, I probably wasn't clear. I just meant that I saw the thread and every question you had got resolved fast...that was all. I'd read a post, want to reply, then saw it was answered a few posts later. Haha. But its what makes this board great - fast and helpful members. There's no such thing as updating tools or posts too much or too fast.  Sorry it was interpreted that you were posting too much.
> ...


Hello Sir, You probably don't remember me its been a while... Just curious if you solved all your oil leak issues with your lathe...

Its been like forever since I have been on here.. Soon after we moved into this new house and I picked a spot for my lathe to live, within just a couple weeks had a nasty leak in the wall, Needless to say we had to rip out and do repairs and then covid hit, The world and my lathe project got put on hold..

The Lathe keeps looking at me and I keep looking at it --> I either have to tear into it and figure out how to get these oil leaks fixed or buy a new one, which makes no sense since I'd be basically buying the same lathe because it fits in the spot perfectly.

Anyway, hope you're having fun with your lathe, and all is going well on your end...!


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## wachuko (Jan 18, 2022)

I am not happy with my oilers... Came across your thread today.  I will order one of those R03 to try it out... 

The ones I have now are the GOLDENROD (625) Pistol Pump Oiler and the (727) Industrial Pump Oiler with Flex Spout... 




On the main subject for the thread... Any updated photos of what your lathe is looking like??


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## Mr Mike (Jan 18, 2022)

wachuko said:


> I am not happy with my oilers... Came across your thread today.  I will order one of those R03 to try it out...
> 
> The ones I have now are the GOLDENROD (625) Pistol Pump Oiler and the (727) Industrial Pump Oiler with Flex Spout...
> 
> ...



Hello Sir, Unfortunately work stopped on my lathe when the house main water line broke inside the wall where the lathe was to be placed..!

The home was only 15 years old when I got it but Murphys Law took full effect shortly after moving in. I don't want to bore anyone with details, but the Movie Money Pit and my house have much in common... And since covid hit everyone thinks its ok to upcharge or even not show up to do repairs, so I've been doing it all myself on weekends and after work somtimes. Along with repairs and improvements I am still not done.

Back to point... I have not had enough time with my new oiler to determine whether or not it will work as I'm expecting and cannot yet recommend it anyone, What I can say about the oiler is they are built very well and their fit & finish are nice.

Now that it's starting to warm up a bit, I'm itching to start working on my lathe either fixing all the leaks or replacing the lathe. I've been looking on craigslist the last couple weeks for a bit newer 12x24 or 12x36 with no luck which is probably for the best.

Thanks for stopping by, Nice to meet you.

Oh BTW I noticed in your sig that you have the HF 9x20, Great little lathe, I had one, you can MOD the heck out of them. Latorz...


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## Mr Mike (Jan 24, 2022)

Hello Peeps...

After talking with Mikey and looking at my options with this very Leaky Lathe, one that I have been reluctant to work on due to the complexity of repairs needed, and the fact you can't even get a new lathe - without waiting several months in line thanks in part to Covid, I guess It's time I roll up the sleeves, Stop making excuses, And get back to work on it...

In any case I'm lucky to even have a lathe to work on, So this weekend I'll be ripping the lathe off it's stand to add the Leveling caster I bought for it last year. these are the ones I bought from CasterHQ model TP60 Made in Korea, they are rated for 600Lbs each 2400 lbs a set, I'll need to make an extension for the stands left and right side to mount them... Ill post photos as I go. 




My garage is my shop like many people so, once I have the Lath Mobile and can move it around under good lighting, I'll start gutting the head, find & fix all the leaking seals. Make a splash guard, clean her up and cross fingers nothing else is needed and start having some fun.


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## Mr Mike (Jan 26, 2022)

Hi all...

I started to Lighten up the lath today by removing the motor & tailstock in preparation of using a cherry picker to lift the lathe off the stand...

Tomorrow I'll start removing the headstock, it needs to come off anyway so I can do the leak repairs on a bench, and as a plus make it safer to remove the bed by myself, I will add some alignment marks to the head for easy reassembly.

Unfortunately, I have to buy a new engine lift, and go figure none are on sale at the moment. all the ones I see on Offer Up and Craigslist look dismal so a new one it is.

I should only need a one ton since I'm just moving the bed and carriage, butt a two ton has more reach from the side, hmm.  







Note: This original motor is wired for 220V.
The garage is still cool so I used a blow dryer to warm up the aged wire sheathing, that way I don't crack it during removal.




If anyone needs a photo of a particular area / item, let me know..!
Thanks for looking,


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## Mr Mike (Jan 27, 2022)

Hello mikey, Gaffer, Papa Charlie, Nogoingback and matthewsx thanks for stopping by.

Soooo..! The nice guy with the grey truck delivered the new 2-Ton Lathe hoist today, Yay...!

Lol, it took me 1.5 hours to assemble a lift that should have taken 1/2 hour at most, Pffft... Must be age related.







With any luck time wise tomorrow, I will try and lift the headstock off the bed and Saturday remove the bed from the stand. And then the fun begins.

Any tips and tricks for marking the headstock alignment for easy reassembly if that's even a thing would be appreciated, I know I'll have to learn how to align it down the road, cause when I'm done, I probably won't need to buy a taper attachment. mine will be built in


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## matthewsx (Jan 28, 2022)

A cold chisel or engraver will probably make marks you can reference later.

john


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## Mr Mike (Jan 28, 2022)

matthewsx said:


> A cold chisel or engraver will probably make marks you can reference later.
> 
> john



Hey matthewsx, I read a couple threads on here where some peoples lathes had factory registration marks, I can't find any on this one so cold chisel it is..

For final setup it looks like the preferred method on here is the double collar, my southbend book has info and there are tubalcain and other videos I'll have to watch.

Thanks for the feedback, have a good morning.


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## Mr Mike (Jan 29, 2022)

The Headstock has been removed, 2 people could remove it by hand but where's the fun in that.

Of note was oil in the lower portion of the Power Distribution Box seen in the 2nd photo.










The straps did not touch or wrap around the spindle under tension. The load was carried through the straps from the bottom of the headstock, I should have shown that clearly with a couple more photos..!  I'll show the anchor points when I reassemble it.




I just have a little prep to do on the two small floor dollies so I can secure the lath bed to them, making it a little safer to move about.

Here's what my plans are for tomorrow, If I'm in error please let me know.!

I have two 2" x 3' 6400 lb straps and a load leveler, I'll place the straps on either side of the carriage between the bed and lead screw and carefully test for center of gravity and make sure the straps can't move before lifting the lathe bed down to the dollies, bolt it in place then remove the straps... Sound Good..?

Also, I was thinking for archival purpose, posting about a dozen or so photos of the distribution wiring taken at different view angles just in-case someone has the same lathe configuration and needs some visuals... let me know if that's something worth posting.

Thanks for looking.


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## Mr Mike (Jan 29, 2022)

Electrical distribution photos.

















Need to be extra careful with the terminal blocks, the whatever type of plastic it's made of is very fragile. I don't suppose anyone knows if or where one can be bought...?


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## Mr Mike (Jan 29, 2022)

The lathe came off the stand without a hitch.

Cut up some 3/4" birch 9 ply plywood and secured it to the dollies, that way the lathe feet have a stable surface to land on.

I got lucky and found the center of gravity on my second test lift, then lifted the lathe high enough to remove the stand, then placed it on the dollies. I'm sure there was some compression applied from the straps to the backside of the carriage but hopefully not enough to damage it.

The floor dollies made it easy to move the lathe bed around and the extra 50 buck for the two-ton lift was well spent for the extra reach it gets over the lathe bed.

For fun me and a neighbor each tried to lift the light side of lathe manually off the stand just to see, even with the extra weight taken off it was still too heavy to lift off the stand for us. the bed must weigh at least 500lbs I'd bet.


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## Mr Mike (Jan 29, 2022)

The stand is in pretty good shape, the support pedestals are 3/32" thick steel. the center webbing is damaged slightly.
The 5 carriage bolts were a useful end user modification that I'll incorporate with other modification's I make to the stand.

I am going to start cleaning them up today, and maybe start modifying them if there is time.







All cleaned up using purple power, The doors are pinned and easy to remove.







I am seriously considering the use of some Krylon spray paint to re-create this motif below on my lathe. I'll be modifying the stand and making a back splash anyway, so might as well make it look great and match my table saw too.

I could use some help figuring out what todays current best spray paint is to use... I have heard good things about Rust-Oleum Industrial Enamel Spray cans.. I know this subject is opening a can of worms, Not looking for Majic just what is known to work well.



My current rattle can paint research... So, I've never seen Seymour industrial MRO paint before, they make the claim on the can as being the best paint period. The other two brands we all know...! these are the paints that were recommended to me from each of the Tech Lines I called. these are industrial paints that are not found at your local Big Box stores.




I called Seymour tech dept two times and was told the paint is an oil-based product and would be a good fit for painting a metal lathe due to it being resistant to gasoline and most cutting fluids, only thing the tech was unsure of was how well it would hold up against impacts over time from tools and dropped objects. it is an oil-based alkyd enamel paint. --> Seymour MRO spray paint.

I called Rust-oleum tech dept; They do not recommend their " professional" branded spray paint for machine tools, their recommendation is the "High performance" branded Industrial V2100 system enamel spray paint, it is an oil-based alkyd enamel paint that would be resistant to cutting oils, --> V 2100 Industrial spray paint.

I called Krylon tech dept 3 times because I was getting different answers from different techs until I got a tech that was willing to call and verify info with a department head, the Krylon industrial paints have subcategory's and even though the cans look the same and say industrial they are not the same, the Tough coat and Rust Tough are both in krylons industrial line up but are not the same. --> Krylon Rust Tough spray paint

Last but not least the Krylon Tech also recommend I look into DupliColors Engine Paint with Ceramic. I did not but it makes sense, engines have high heat, gas, oils and other chemicals to resist... I remember the good old days painting my intake manifolds. anyway, these paints are by no means the best paints for a Lathe, however since I don't want to buy a new spray rig and I'm just looking for quick, simple and reasonable DTM paint (Direct to metal - no primer needed), I think any of these High-end industrial paints would fill the bill for me.

If anyone knows the best rattle can paint to use on a lathe, please post it here... that way we will all know.

Its settled, I'll be the guineapig, take one for the team and try the Seymour MRO paint that I've never heard of, it says "the best paint period" right on the can - so it must be true, Right...!


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## Mr Mike (Feb 4, 2022)

I started work on the pedestals yesterday cutting off part of the web support to make room for a drawer, then realized I don't know how much to remove until I get the center web fixed, lol just another one of my regular I didn't think this through moments. so, I just removed the web supports from both pedestals and will weld a new frame together and mount the center web on the frame for aesthetic.

Today I got the center web fix to eliminate the damaged areas, and tomorrow I can start figuring out the support frame, maybe I'll get lucky and finish welding it up this weekend...









I ended up removing about 6" from the height of the center support web, Plenty of room for a drawer or two.... I'm thinking this may turn out better than expected.





There is allot of work besides a new support frame and drawers, The left pedestal has no bottom shelf like the one on the right and neither have a center shelf, I'll need to make side supports for the leveling caster and a backsplash too... on the plus side the doors and chip pane are in good condition.


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## Mr Mike (Feb 7, 2022)

I did not get the amount done over the weekend that I wanted, but it's coming along... most of the center support frame is cut and welded along with the pedestal supports for the leveling casters, I just started welding and the neighbor came over, you know how the rest goes....

I used wood as a template to get my angles right because it's fast and steel is too expensive right now for redo's... all the supports should be done and mounted this next weekend... lol I'm hopping but maybe not - weathers warming up so It's time to get the pool started back up... 




I've had a few different chop saws and 1 wet bandsaw, none of them seem to cut as nice and square as this metal devil that uses a carbide tip saw blade, real pleasure to use...! I am still on the same blade that's been sharpened once in five years, guessing 500 to 600 cuts of metal and 300 cuts in wood. 







The 2 center supports will be bolted to the pedestals and the original panel mounted to the front support, I'm trying to keep the original appearance and beef it up a little for rolling around.


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## Larry$ (Feb 7, 2022)

Mr Mike said:


> I don't suppose anyone knows if or where one can be bought...?


Check Automation Direct's online catalog.


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## Mr Mike (Feb 8, 2022)

Larry$ said:


> Check Automation Direct's online catalog.


Hi Larry$. Yea...  Buddy... you Nailed it...!

They have Mini Din Blocks in just about the same size and should fit in the same space, I'll have to replace the whole assembly which is even better since the old ones are super fragile. The blocks are about 1" x 1-1/4" x 1/4"...!  you just made my day.



			https://cdn.automationdirect.com/static/specs/konnectmini.pdf
		


Thanks for the tip sir...


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## Mr Mike (Feb 8, 2022)

I stopped at my local supply house here today and they don't carry MRO paint cans in stock, so I bought the Krylon Rust tough paint. when I got home, I opened one and it has a Fan spray head which I prefer over the oval one.... So that adds bonus points right.

With simple and decent in mind I am hoping this Krylon paint will do the job, I got gloss black, gloss dark machinery grey and gray primer for the new bare-metal pieces. lol in my recent paint post a few back I did say I was considering getting some Krylon, that's a good Omen.


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## Larry$ (Feb 9, 2022)

Mr Mike said:


> They have Mini Din Blocks


I've built several control cabinets and really like using DIN rail components. I keep all that kind of stuff when I tear down equipment at the end of its life. I've also got rolls of all the different sizes of pneumatic tubing and connectors. Doing your own repairs or modifications is way cheaper than using a tech and you get to know what makes it tick.


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## Mr Mike (Feb 15, 2022)

Over the weekend I finished welding up the center web support and welded the base for the Leveling casters, everything went better than I expected.

I am pretty much a hobby welder, so I had a couple welding hurdles to overcome and learn to problem solve issues such as filling gaps & different metal thickness being welded together. I got the caster bases welded up and everything was going well except for a mistake I made while getting the caster bases ready to mount up.




I used 3/8" x 3" hardware to mount the 1" x 2" 14-gauge tube center supports in place, If I had to do it over again, I would use 5/16" hardware. It's overkill and built like a tank.







After welding up the bases, my train of thought got de-railed from work calls and what not, and instead of drilling the socket access holes on the exposed side I started drilling the holes on the flush side of a base that mates with the pedestal, I was drilling the 2nd hole before I realized what I had done... needless to say I went into panic mode trying to figure out how I was going to continue.

I didn't want to recreate a new base, so I watched a few videos looking for ideas how to close the holes up and found one that uses a copper plate to close the holes with... I looked around but could not find any copper plates on a Sunday. then it hit me I have washers the same thickness as the metal with a 3/8" hole that is the same size as the hardware I'm using... I welded them in leaving the same size hole I need.

Boy did I luck out and divert what I thought was a disaster, 30 minutes later I was back in business and moving along.








With all my self-made drama out of the way the rest of the day went great.
I used 3/8" x 1" hardware to mount the 2"x 3" x 1/8" caster base 




The Leveling casters uses a 1/2" stud, washer and bolt to mount it.




The casters hold the stand about 3/16" off the ground which is all I should need to gain access the back of the lathe when needed.







During the week I'll try and add a floor to the left pedestal, Thanks for looking.


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## matthewsx (Feb 15, 2022)

Mr Mike said:


> Over the weekend I finished welding up the center web support and welded the base for the Leveling casters, everything went better than I expected.
> 
> I am pretty much a hobby welder, so I had a couple welding hurdles to overcome and learn to problem solve issues such as filling gaps & different metal thickness being welded together. I got the bases welded up and everything was going well except for a mistake I made while getting the bases ready to mount up.
> 
> ...


I have a similar lathe and like what you’re doing but I have to ask a question.

Every time I think about changing  my stand I just want to start fresh and put a toolbox or two underneath it. Maybe it’s just that my shop is small but the only thing the stock stand has going for me is it came with the machine.

Don‘t get me wrong, I like your concept. Just seems like too much wasted space for me.

John


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## Mr Mike (Feb 15, 2022)

matthewsx said:


> I have a similar lathe and like what you’re doing but I have to ask a question.
> 
> Every time I think about changing  my stand I just want to start fresh and put a toolbox or two underneath it. Maybe it’s just that my shop is small but the only thing the stock stand has going for me is it came with the machine.
> 
> ...


Hello Sir. I've seen lathes on toolbox's and it's a fantastic idea... I was actually considering making the center of my stand all drawers and putting a hinge on the original center webbing cut in half like a cabinet door so I could access them, I might do that as future project if I need more space.

For now, it's a project about having a cool utility lathe that's serviceable, later I'll worry about the ancillary aspects of it.


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## Mr Mike (Feb 15, 2022)

I cutout the floor piece for the left pedestal and installed it, and now I have a place to store fluids for the lathe, I have no idea why the pedestal didn't have a floor from the factory.

One thing I need to figure out is how to keep fluids from the chip pan leaking into the pedestals - RTV silicon maybe...?






Business cards make great spacers.










Not now but one day I may use the empty space in the center to add drawers for tooling and what not, future project maybe. this weekend Ill start working on a simple upper drawer that sits over it and install the original center web...

Thanks for looking.


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## Mr Mike (Feb 20, 2022)

Today I trimmed off the center web upper and lower lip and installed it.
it still amazes me the power of a plasma torch vs a trusty old grinder...!




Less than 8 seconds to trim off each lip, so glad I didn't have to grind them off.




I bolted the webbing back in place with 1/4-20 x 1.5" hardware to help keep the original appearance of the stand.




There is now plenty of space for a drawer that I'll start working on tomorrow.




I'm happy with how the stands turning out, I just hope the lathe appreciates it too. Just a couple more things and the stand will be ready for paint...!

Thanks for Looking.


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## Mr Mike (Feb 27, 2022)

The weather was bad last weekend, we got a break Wednesday, I cut out most of the drawer panels and beveled them for welding. This weekend I welded the drawer up and installed it on the stand, It came out spot on and looks pretty good. The only issue I ran into was the drawer slides from Home Depot that were rated to 50 lbs...  The 14ga Drawer is 12 Lbs and when extended was deflecting, so I ordered some 80 lb slide replacements.




I beveled all the mating edges so I could grind off the excess weld to keep a flat profile on the drawer.










The rest of the hardware such as the tube end caps & drawer pulls are on the way, I may alter a set of drawer pulls for the doors too so they match.

I think it's ready for prep and paint unless someone knows other nifty enhancements it's missing... I hope to have the paint completed by the end of next week so I can mount the lathe bed and start on it...! If all goes well fingers crossed, I'll have a pretty neat mobile base next week.

If anyone has reason to think I've under built the stand to be mobile or I'm missed something, please let me know before I mount the lathe bed and I'll fix it, thanks for looking.


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## matthewsx (Feb 27, 2022)

Looks plenty stout to me, this is all I did on mine to be able to move it around.




John


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## Mr Mike (Feb 27, 2022)

matthewsx said:


> Looks plenty stout to me, this is all I did on mine to be able to move it around.
> 
> John


I see you did it the smart way and follow the kiss method... I really should too, but where is the fun in that... 

What brand is your lathe? Pretty nifty you have three V ways on your lathe bed. Also, how do you like those leveling casters, do they roll easy with all the weight...?


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## matthewsx (Feb 27, 2022)

Mr Mike said:


> I see you did it the smart way and follow the kiss method... I really should too, but where is the fun in that...
> 
> What brand is your lathe? Pretty nifty you have three V ways on your lathe bed. Also, how do you like those leveling casters, do they roll easy with all the weight...?


Mine is branded Samson but it’s a Tida according to the manual, seems to work fine for my needs.

I bought the cheap leveling casters, if I were to do it over I’d buy better ones or just regular casters and separate leveling feet.

Here’s my thread about it.









						Samson (Tida) TD-5AA lathe
					

Just picked this up today.    And....    So I can check it against what Mr. Fang found in 1981 :grin:  John




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




John


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## Mr Mike (Mar 13, 2022)

Hello People...
last week's weather was not paint friendly and I only got to paint an hour here and there, it was cloudy & windy most every day and below 70 deg. when I did start painting, I found that painting in a horizontal position with these spray cans caused a dusting effect, the rest of the stand
would have to be painted in a vertical position. I made a stand that worked out pretty well for that purpose.




The first pieces I painted were the center web in two parts, the pedestals and the support base...








Yesterday and today the weather was perfect, and I got the drawer, doors, chip pan and center support painted.







The black paint regardless of prep was harder to paint as smooth a finish as the grey paint, both have this dusting effect like the paint is flashing off quickly.... the outside temp was around 70 deg, so this was unexpected. the directions say it takes 30 minutes dry to touch and handle in 3 hrs, and to use several light coats to prevent sagging... I ended up going with 1 light coat and 2 medium wet coats to get a decent finish. each coat was about 5 minutes apart.

There was always a slight breeze 1-3 miles an hour at most and may have caused the paint to flash quickly, the paint does have excellent coverage, hide ability, sheen and does not require a primer... The grey for reasons unknown painted easier and with less aberrations then the black but the paint job as a whole came out pretty decent.

Prep was easy, removed loose paint & rust on the chip pan then washed everything in soap and water and let dry, wiped down each piece with acetone before painting.

I used 3 3/4 cans of black and 2 1/2 cans of grey to paint the whole stand. I hope the paint lives up to the claims made about it, one thing is for sure it was nice not to have to clean up a spray rig after each paint session.

Last but not least, it takes a few days for this paint to completely cure so just resist the urge to wipe off any dust till then.








I just have a couple things to finish up tomorrow, order the vinyl Enco Ultra stickers, hand paint the inside of the pedestals, install end caps, door handles and she'll be done.

Sometime this week I'll remount the lathe bed and start building the back splash...

Thanks for Looking.


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## IamNotImportant (Mar 13, 2022)

matthewsx said:


> I have a similar lathe and like what you’re doing but I have to ask a question.
> 
> Every time I think about changing  my stand I just want to start fresh and put a toolbox or two underneath it. Maybe it’s just that my shop is small but the only thing the stock stand has going for me is it came with the machine.
> 
> ...


i wish i had the talent to do this to mine..


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## wachuko (Mar 13, 2022)

That came out great!!


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## NCjeeper (Mar 13, 2022)

Looks good.


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## Mr Mike (Mar 13, 2022)

IamNotImportant said:


> i wish i had the talent to do this to mine..



Oh you can learn the skills, all you need is the Desire, Motivation and Cash... don't sell yourself short.


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## Mr Mike (Mar 13, 2022)

wachuko said:


> That came out great!!





NCjeeper said:


> Looks good.



Thanks, much appreciated.


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## Mr Mike (Mar 23, 2022)

Hello all.

I got the lathe bed back on the stand after letting the paint cure for the week, everything went without a hitch and the stand has very little resistance to movement, granted its missing a couple hundred pounds...

Next in line will be stripping the lath bed down to get it ready for paint, then onto building the backsplash, fixing all the leaks in the gearhead assembly and put it all back together....






Unfortunately, ill have to put my lathe project on hold for a while because now is the perfect time of year to lay a cement slab for this storage shed I am going to build... I'm my own worst enemy because I like doing everything myself... well maybe except the cement part, still on the fence for that, but should be a lot of fun.

Right now I'm out of room and need a place to store stuff, so a shed project ( Pictured Below ) is next, maybe add a roll up door and solar power who knows... Ill be back to the lath soon enough, thanks for looking.

To bad this is a lathe only forum or Id make a shed thread, lol Naw, then I'd never get anything done...!


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## wachuko (Mar 23, 2022)

That is why I have a thread in the Garage Journal forum for when I start building mine!!


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## Mr Mike (Mar 23, 2022)

wachuko said:


> That is why I have a thread in the Garage Journal forum for when I start building mine!!


Looked didn't find it...?


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## wachuko (Mar 23, 2022)

Mr Mike said:


> Looked didn't find it...?


Oops.... Here you go... for now the thread is a place holder... waiting until later this year to get a quote and decide if I go with a metal building or something that looks like the house...  Oh, and it is no longer 30x40... down to 30x30 to avoid taking down any of the trees... 






						Workshop Build 30x30x12 Ocala, FL
					

Almost there....




					www.garagejournal.com


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## Mr Mike (Mar 24, 2022)

wachuko said:


> Oops.... Here you go... for now the thread is a place holder... waiting until later this year to get a quote and decide if I go with a metal building or something that looks like the house...  Oh, and it is no longer 30x40... down to 30x30 to avoid taking down any of the trees...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


HAHA your wachuko on there too... I like it, and I like your Gantry crane allot... I'm jealous..!


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## wachuko (Mar 24, 2022)

Mr Mike said:


> HAHA your wachuko on there too... I like it, and I like your Gantry crane allot... I'm jealous..!


The one and only... you can pretty much see my life evolve just by googling my nickname...


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## Mr Mike (May 17, 2022)

*This Is a Chance In a Lifetime For Someone...!*

I am going to give away this Lathe, free to good home...

The lathe comes with tons of stuff as seen in this thread including a bison chuck, stand and all.... whats left to do is solve all the oil leaks in the gearhead and fix the electrical distribution bar in the panel. technically you could just slap it back together and use it.

The many slow oil leaks all over the place drive me nuts, and I refuse to use it like that,

I am getting old this up-coming birthday, and Ill never get this lathe done cause its always on the back burner to my other projects, I'm just going to buy a new ready to use lathe sometime in the future.

This Lathe is located in las Vegas, weighs in at around 1000 lbs. and can be loaded in the back of a truck via my engine hoist in a couple pieces. The lathe bedways seem to be in really decent shape so the bones are good, Just needs a bunch of TLC.

Who Its for:

It's not for sale Its for free to someone that can fix, use and appreciate it..
It's for the guy who wants to fix and give it to a relative or friend that cant afford but so deserves a cool lathe..

Who its not for:

It's not for the guy that just wants to pick it up and sell it... my good fortune is not yours, Id rather cut it up in 10 Peces and throw it away.

So how do we figure out who gets it... I would love for someone on these forums to get and use it. so I ask for everyone's help figuring this out..

Thank you for the help with this in advance... No rush lets get it to the right person.

Mr Mike.


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## Firstram (May 17, 2022)

How generous! You should start a new thread with a poll or an essay contest or some other fun way to find the right person. If I was closer I'd be willing to help sort out the issues. Best of luck!


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## Papa Charlie (May 17, 2022)

This is an amazing opportunity. I hope it goes to someone that could not afford to buy one but have the means to restore it. 
God Bless you sir!


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## Mr Mike (May 17, 2022)

Firstram said:


> How generous! You should start a new thread with a poll or an essay contest or some other fun way to find the right person. If I was closer I'd be willing to help sort out the issues. Best of luck!


I announced it here on this thread cause this is the lathes restoration home, I hope who ever gets it continues to show its repair progress or at least its completion, would be thrilled to see it become useful to someone.

Your right about starting a new thread maybe... Ill ask Mikey for help... he is in a unique position I believe to help with this.


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## Janderso (May 17, 2022)

Mr Mike said:


> *This Is a Chance In a Lifetime For Someone...!*
> 
> I am going to give away this Lathe, free to good home...
> 
> ...


Outstanding.
How are you going to decide who earns it?
What a thoughtful offering. Pay it forward.
May the Karma find you in many positive ways!


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## Mr Mike (May 17, 2022)

Papa Charlie said:


> This is an amazing opportunity. I hope it goes to someone that could not afford to buy one but have the means to restore it.
> God Bless you sir!


That is *EXACTLY* what I am hoping for... couldn't ask for a better outcome.

I wouldn't say it's an amazing opportunity lol, they will still have to put some hours in if they want a well running machine, but for the right person that shouldn't be an issue, It ran nice & smooth when I got it.. just oil leaks out slowly from everywhere on gearhead.. and when it accumulates on the chuck it spits it at you...

Any ideas how to find the right person, let me know..


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## Mr Mike (May 17, 2022)

Janderso said:


> Outstanding.
> How are you going to decide who earns it?
> What a thoughtful offering. Pay it forward.
> May the Karma find you in many positive ways!


Thats what I need help figuring out, I fear there are not many people here in Vegas on the forums and it's too costly to ship-out to another state or drive here to get it, so I am kinda hoping that enough people here on the forums knows of someone here in town that would get a kick out of getting this...

My last option would be to post it on offer up or craigs list which I dread as an option in finding a good home. fortunately, I'm not in a rush..


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## Papa Charlie (May 17, 2022)

Mr Mike said:


> Thats what I need help figuring out, I fear there are not many people here in Vegas on the forums and it's too costly to ship-out to another state or drive here to get it, so I am kinda hoping that enough people here on the forums knows of someone here in town that would get a kick out of getting this...
> 
> My last option would be to post it on offer up or craigs list which I dread as an option in finding a good home. fortunately, I'm not in a rush..


That probably may have to be the way this goes down. Someone in need without the funds won't be able to ship or maybe even drive there unless, maybe they head that way for work or something. I wish I knew of someone that I could put their name in the hat but don't have any contacts in LV.


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## Janderso (May 17, 2022)

Mr Mike said:


> Thats what I need help figuring out, I fear there are not many people here in Vegas on the forums and it's too costly to ship-out to another state or drive here to get it, so I am kinda hoping that enough people here on the forums knows of someone here in town that would get a kick out of getting this...
> 
> My last option would be to post it on offer up or craigs list which I dread as an option in finding a good home. fortunately, I'm not in a rush..


I wonder if there is a , Makers Space, in your area?


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## HoboMachinist77 (Nov 3, 2022)

I just got one of these for $500 but has zero tooling and no change gears. Just whatever is already on it. A contact was bad. Found them on Amazon for $17. Runs fine.  This one has a different # than yours I think though. Haven't gotten to make chips much though as it's at work right now..trying to figure out how to get it home.

Whatever came of this enco of yours? I just found this thread lastnight. Sad you won't be taking it to the finish line.


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## Ken226 (Nov 3, 2022)

HoboMachinist77 said:


> I just got one of these for $500 but has zero tooling and no change gears. Just whatever is already on it. A contact was bad. Found them on Amazon for $17. Runs fine.  This one has a different # than yours I think though. Haven't gotten to make chips much though as it's at work right now..trying to figure out how to get it home.
> 
> Whatever came of this enco of yours? I just found this thread lastnight. Sad you won't be taking it to the finish line.



That's a steal.  

The good news is that Grizzly has been selling that lathe forever,  and stock tons of parts for it.



Get the G4003 manual from their website.  Copy the part# from the manual and paste it into their search bar.


The standard g4003,  not the g4003g.


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## HoboMachinist77 (Nov 3, 2022)

Ken226 said:


> That's a steal.
> 
> The good news is that Grizzly has been selling that lathe forever,  and stock tons of parts for it.
> 
> ...


Thanks! That's a great manual. Way better than the old scanned one I found.... Maybe I'll start my own thread similar to this one with lots of photos for others to enjoy....it will be another teardown and rebuild more than likely. 
So you think the change gears would work from grizzly? Just plug and play?


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## Ken226 (Nov 4, 2022)

HoboMachinist77 said:


> Thanks! That's a great manual. Way better than the old scanned one I found.... Maybe I'll start my own thread similar to this one with lots of photos for others to enjoy....it will be another teardown and rebuild more than likely.
> So you think the change gears would work from grizzly? Just plug and play?



I can't be 100% certain,  but I feel confident around 98%. 

A buddy of mine had the "central Machinery" branded one, which is the same lathe  and he used G4003 change gears.

I bet there are a few members here who have done it and can verify.


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## HoboMachinist77 (Nov 4, 2022)

Ken226 said:


> I can't be 100% certain,  but I feel confident around 98%.
> 
> A buddy of mine had the "central Machinery" branded one, which is the same lathe  and he used G4003 change gears.
> 
> I bet there are a few members here who have done it and can verify.



I'll have to look into the sets they have. I wish they had technical drawings of the gears from grizzly for verification purposes before purchasing.


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