# Sheldon  Exl-56b - "fixer Upper"  Is There Any Hope, Doctor?



## d4xycrq (Feb 26, 2015)

Auction 'win'.  Let these pictures serve as before!





























































Whaddya think?  Poster boy for Evap-o-rust?  They sell that in 55 gallon drums?

And very surprised to see that my 8N would pick the lathe up....  But needed a bit of extra weight on it's nose!

Ray


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## CluelessNewB (Feb 26, 2015)

*I would try electrolytic rust removal, cheaper in the long run than Evap-o-rust!   *


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## d4xycrq (Feb 26, 2015)

CluelessNewB said:


> *I would try electrolytic rust removal, cheaper in the long run than Evap-o-rust!   *



Clue,

Yep, will do!  The good thing about electrolysis is you don't need to degrease.   Then again, there's no grease/oil on this poor Sheldon!

Ray


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## hvontres (Feb 26, 2015)

well, at least the steady and follower rest look servicable  Was this lathe stored under the sea by any chance?
Good luck getting everything back into shape.


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## middle.road (Feb 26, 2015)

Dang, that is a shame, make one kinda tearful.
Wish you were closer, we could start tossing parts into my electro-tank...


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## atwatterkent (Feb 26, 2015)

A little bit if surface rust. Big deal. And everything's there except for a tool rest. They must have had a shaper at one time too, judging by the tool holder in one of the drawers.
By the way, nice Ford


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## mattthemuppet2 (Feb 27, 2015)

it's certainly very well tooled! Hopefully it's just surface rust on the precision surfaces, in which case a butt load of time in the electrolysis tank, some scotchbright and some paint and you'll have a lovely lathe. The backgears certainly look in very good shape. I presume that a rebuild thread is on the cards?

May I ask how much?


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## Ulma Doctor (Feb 27, 2015)

why would anyone do that to a lathe!!!!!!


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## hermetic (Feb 27, 2015)

You bought it! It will clean up and make a very nice machine, it is a pity someone didn't grease it down and sheet it, but there you go. Get stuck in and have some fun. Surface rust on cast iron, no problem!
Phil


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## ariscats (Feb 27, 2015)

Beautiful and very well tooled.We are waiting progress report with photos of course


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## AJB (Feb 27, 2015)

Six months ago I purchased a lathe in similar condition but maybe no quite as bad.  I had good luck removing the bulk of the rust with Oshpho.  For the really stubborn areas, I would soak with oshpho and immediately rub with crumpled up aluminum foil.  These aren't real good pictures but they will give you an idea of the before and after.


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## d4xycrq (Feb 27, 2015)

Clueless:  My electrolysis tank is ready to go!

Hvontres:  Stored outside, oceanfront, no doubt!

Middle:  I may need a half dozen electrolysis tanks!

Atwaterrkent:  I love that 8N!  Does everything around here.  Well spotted, with regard to the shaper bits.

Matt:  I was shocked when I opened the drawers!  Not much missing, is there.  Which is a good thing, as you don’t see much on eBay.  Indeed the backgears are not missing any teeth, nor are the change gears.  I will rebuild it.  And it was $660.  Seller loaded it into my truck. No rigger required.

Ulma:  Who did this?  Our government.  Left outside for years.

Hermetic:  Yep, I was the sucker, er, ah, I mean successful bidder.

AJB:  Remarkable transformation!  Very nice!

Here follows some pictures before and after lots of work knocking the rust off the ways.  My intention is to put this critter back together and see how a test bar does.  If the results are pathetic, I’ll scrape and flake.








	

		
			
		

		
	
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[URL=http://s5.photobucket.com/user/d4xycrq/media/Sheldon%20EXL-56B%20Lathe/Sheldon%20EXL56B%20Lathe%20036_zpsivkkk3gi.jpg.html]
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
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[URL=http://s5.photobucket.com/user/d4xycrq/media/Sheldon%20EXL-56B%20Lathe/Sheldon%20EXL56B%20Lathe%20029_zpsinjs9r9y.jpg.html]
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
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Meanwhile, here’s the gearbox, headstock, etc…

[URL=http://s5.photobucket.com/user/d4xycrq/media/Sheldon%20EXL-56B%20Lathe/Sheldon%20EXL56B%20Lathe%20027_zpsuczn3biu.jpg.html]
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
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Condition of the carriage was remarkably clean inside:

[URL=http://s5.photobucket.com/user/d4xycrq/media/Sheldon%20EXL-56B%20Lathe/Sheldon%20EXL56B%20Lathe%20012_zpscd9qfmwh.jpg.html]
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
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[URL=http://s5.photobucket.com/user/d4xycrq/media/Sheldon%20EXL-56B%20Lathe/Sheldon%20EXL56B%20Lathe%20011_zpseyxuivnr.jpg.html]
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
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That feed screw looks rough though!

Headstock bearings:

[URL=http://s5.photobucket.com/user/d4xycrq/media/Sheldon%20EXL-56B%20Lathe/Sheldon%20EXL56B%20Lathe%20006_zpsirja5smh.jpg.html]
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
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Underdrive could be worse:

[URL=http://s5.photobucket.com/user/d4xycrq/media/Sheldon%20EXL-56B%20Lathe/Sheldon%20EXL56B%20Lathe%20004_zpszpfszces.jpg.html]
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
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Very tidy, no swarf, but a bit of rust, though…!

[URL=http://s5.photobucket.com/user/d4xycrq/media/Sheldon%20EXL-56B%20Lathe/Sheldon%20EXL56B%20Lathe%20002_zpslkwgtnbo.jpg.html]
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
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The electric motor is dated 1989 (scratched on by hand), so the lathe was in service as late as then…but what year was the lathe made!?  Serial number is TXE 17696 T.  Anybody know?

Best regards,

Ray[/URL][/URL][/URL][/URL][/URL][/URL][/URL][/URL][/URL]


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## Cactus Farmer (Feb 27, 2015)

Are you in need of the shaper tools? I sure can use them, ya see, I have 2 of the lovely things and am always looking for accessories to add to my collection.......


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## randyc (Feb 27, 2015)

Downright shameful treatment of a fine old lathe !  I have the same machine, built in 1944 and it's still a hard-working old girl -


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## mattthemuppet2 (Feb 27, 2015)

looks like it's cleaning up nicely already, even without having to go nuclear on it! A couple of weeks/ months hard work and I think you'll have an incredibly capable tool for very little invested.


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## CluelessNewB (Feb 27, 2015)

Cactus Farmer said:


> Are you in need of the shaper tools?




I was being good and not trying to poach them 

Lathe is looking better by the hour!


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## Cactus Farmer (Feb 27, 2015)

I was not trying to "poach" the shaper tools. If they are of no use to him I was hoping to trade him some of my excess lathe tools.
Go ahead and take the first shot.


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## CluelessNewB (Feb 27, 2015)

Sorry if my use of the word "poach" was taken wrong, it was my unsuccessful attempt at humor.  

My only interest would be the tool holder below as the one on my South Bend shaper is not so good.   I suspect the crank handle (Atlas also?) would be more interesting to others.


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## mzayd3 (Feb 27, 2015)

that will be quite a nice latthe once you are done.  i have a uxl version and love it.  would you be willing to take a few pictures of the carriage locking mechanism?  i have to sort some issues out on mine.  if you haven't already, join the yahoo sheldon group- there is a wealth of info there.  enjoy your project and good luck!!


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## Ulma Doctor (Feb 27, 2015)

The lathe is already looking better than i thought possible!!!
Great Work!!!!


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## 4GSR (Feb 28, 2015)

d4xycrq said:


> The electric motor is dated 1989 (scratched on by hand), so the lathe was in service as late as then…but what year was the lathe made!?  Serial number is TXE 17696 T.  Anybody know?
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Ray



17,000 puts it in the early 1950's. You can find out more information on the Sheldon forum on Yahoo. There's a couple guys on there that can get you a near exact date.  Or you could go to Borun & Coch and pay to find out more....

Edit:
http://www.bourn-koch.com/home/cnc_machine_parts/machine_type/horizontal_turning_machines.html


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## FOMOGO (Feb 28, 2015)

Nice job so far. A real shame machinery is treated like that (our tax dollars at work). Mike


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## Gerry (Mar 2, 2015)

It's going to cost you more than the lathe is worth to restore, but I know that is not a reason to restore old iron. I had a SEWQM 11X56 Sheldon. Parts prices were totally out of reason from S&B. I think I may have a copy of the parts book-yours if you want it. Gmasterman@aol.com


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## mws (Mar 2, 2015)

God Bless you for putting the effort into bringing this machine back to service.   I have almost the same Sheldon minus the follow rest and taper attachment.  Guess I'll have to keep looking .  I like the electrolysis method myself, it gets deep into the metal.  Good luck, we'll be watching for future updates.  
Mark


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## challenger (Mar 2, 2015)

I have an EXL-44B serial number 20254 which is 1955. Definitely join the yahoo group. The yahoo group web site architecture is beyond horrendous and is the main reason I don't go there nearly as much as I'd like to. I don't know what the deal is with Yahoo and why they don't bring the group web sites into the 80's but it is a real shame.
Do you think you can really make a decent lathe out of that unit? I'm not being critical-I'd love to know if it is possible to make the lathe turn good parts after seeing all the rust. That isn't surface rust either. Maybe it will facilitate oil retention in the pitting.
The guru for Sheldon is John Knox. I imagine you already know this by now. I spoke with him today about my lathe. I have been having trouble getting it to turn tapered parts using the telescopic taper attachment and he is helping me with this issue. He isn't just a Sheldon expert BTW. He knows lathes very well and I would hazard to say he could recondition a machine as well as most experts I have "talked" with on forums. He is a really great guy and will take calls at his personal number.
I have done a lot of work to mine. I recently did the headstock bearings, new 3-phase motor, VFD and it is a really great machine other than some binding in the taper turning department. I got so frustrated that I came within a second of just jamming the tool bit into the part to see if I could break something. Irish temper almost got me but I'm old enough now to temper my temper IYKWIM.
If I can help please let me know and best of luck.
My lathe has the L00 spindle which I am happy about but I am wondering why yours has a threaded spindle? Is the spindle serviceable? What is the hole through it size?
Nice work so far and the "spooge tank" is by far the best way to remove rust IMO.
Another good site for information.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/


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## bcriner (Mar 2, 2015)

d4xycrq -  

You really got a good deal on that old 56EXL.  I have one identical to it that I have had about 13 yrs.  Got mine from a fellow at Texas AM Univ. It had been in a university shop and was sold excess, before that probably was a gov surplus that was given to AM.  The only change I made to mine was finding an apron with the lever clutch and swaping it out.  The lever clutch is so much nicer than the knob type.

I noticed the crank handle you have.  I have a Atlas shaper that I need need a crank for.  Would you consider selling it if yours has the 3/8" hole?

Good luck on your restore efforts.


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## d4xycrq (Mar 2, 2015)

Cactus:  I’m shopping for a Shaper, so will hang on to the tool holders.

RandyC:  Yep, shame - the lathe was not whooped, so extra shame it was stored outside. 

Matt:  Thanks Matt, it is coming together so far.  Well, apart.  So far, the only part that is fighting me is the tailstock.  The Jacobs chuck is out of the spindle, but the spindle won’t budge.  Soaking in PB Blaster.  It will go in the electrolysis bath next.

Clue:  I’m looking for a Shaper, so all the bits and pieces will be needed some day!

Mzayd:  The pictures you need are the carriage locks top and bottom?  Perhaps this helps?



 

You can see the carriage lock in the left side of the above.  Also, you can see the carriage lock dropped down on the feedshaft  in this picture, too.  Notice it has a pin.





4gsr:  Early fifties?  Makes sense.  Thanks for the heads up on the Yahoo group.

FOMOGO:  The guys working surplus sales just don’t care.  That, and they don’t have enough space for indoor storage, no doubt.  I’m working in on a Bridgeport that was stored outside was well.  You get to understand where water goes and doesn’t go!

Gerry:  Thanks for he offer on the parts book - but I think the one it came with will do.  As far as being worth less than the cost to restore;  story of my life.  So far, and touch wood, I haven’t found any big dollar items to replace.  I suppose bearings are where the money are.  I will have to make new dials, though.  The ones it came with are too pitted.  I’ll make ‘em myself.

MWS:  Thanks for the words of encouragement!  I’ve taken the compound out of electrolysis, and the whole saddle is in there now.

Challenger:  Thanks for confirming the date - early fifties!  My intention is to get the lathe back together and turn a test bar.  I’ll post the results, but you folks will have to be patient!  If the results are atrocious, the lathe is a candidate for scrape and flake - and intend to do myself.  You know what, I had the same thought;  the pits will retain the way oil!  Talk about whistling in the dark!  The spindle is  1.375” ID.

Bcriner:  The lever type clutch spoils ya doesn’t it!  And thanks for the “good luck”  I’ll need it!

Update:  Took the compound out of the electrolysis tank today.  The dial is toast.  Pits are bad - rendering the scale unreadable.  I guess I’ll learn how to make new ones!  Or perhaps the common South Bend ones may fit, or be made to fit.  Even before the rust, the small dials would have been a bear to read.  Definitely a candidate for a large dial conversion.
No heavy rust pits on the compound itself - and surprisingly, no beaver knawing on the compound.  This lathe was adult owned and operated.

Haven’t touched the headstock yet.  Hope the bearings are salvageable.

Thanks guys!

I’ve learnt a lot here, and am applying all the knowledge on this ‘challenge’.

Ray


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## challenger (Mar 4, 2015)

I'll be surprised if the dials on a Southbend are interchangeable. I think the Sheldon 1/2-8 acme screw for the crossfeed is an unusual thread. I guess any dial that reads 000"-.250" will work. I'll be watching to see how the dials are made. I need the following likely make one for an old Mill. 
The rusted together parts should all come apart with your fingers if your spooge tank is working properly. I have disassembled parts that were severely rust welded together after a good soak. It's like a miracle process that attacks rust like nothing else. If it is working right then the parts should start foaming big time when put into the tank. 
You may know all this-just in case you didnt


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## d4xycrq (Mar 4, 2015)

Challenger,

Yessir, the saddle is in the electrolysis tank foaming away.  By the way, got introduced to electrolysis when restoring Ford tractors.  Matter of fact just hopped off my Jubilee - was plowing snow.  And my 8N was getting a workout too.

And I hope you are right about the 0-.250" dials being rather interchangeable - and available!  Making them is easy.  Scribing them and numbering them would be a bit fiddly.

Ray


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## d4xycrq (Mar 4, 2015)

Turns out the compound on the EXL-56 goes from .000-.125"  And the hole through the dial is .700"  The dial itself is roughly 1 3/8".
My South Bend Heavy 10 goes from .000-.200", curiously enough.

Ray


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## Pacer (Mar 4, 2015)

As they say "been there and done that" (I hate that saying) 

I bought my 13" Sheldon for $650 (sound familiar) and while it didnt have quite the rust yours has, it was a wreck condition wise! It had a very unusual under drive that Mr Knox over on the yahoo site called the "walking stick drive" (you've GOT to get joined up over there, Mr Knox is an encyclopedia on Sheldons) Heres a link to a write up on it on Tonys website

http://www.lathes.co.uk/sheldon/page8.html

Lemme pause here and say that I do have some rust experience - I bought a 13" South Bend and a 10" Emco 
that had gone thru hurricane Katrina and sat for some 5 years and they were BAD, the ways were at least as bad as yours and probably worse. I'm still using the SB after 6 yrs now and even with the pitted ways (oil holders) the lathe performs like a dream. Seriously, its pretty doubtful the pits will affect the operation of the lathe - now wear is a different story. I mainly use media (sand) blasting for my clean ups, along with LOTs of elbow grease - 3M pads, wire wheels etc .

As you are finding out, there is a ton of work in reclaiming one of these but you can never figure your time in them, you have to do it out of the love and appreciation of seeing a fine old piece (ole merican arn!) like this come back to life. My hobby is finding these old jewels and doing just that, I had some $1500 money in my Sheldon and I sold it for $2500 after 30mins on Craig list, then got some 4-5 other calls (as the fella was coming to pick it up a guy offered me 3000 if I would let him have it!!) I greatly agonized over whether to sell the SB or the Sheldon, I _really_ liked the Sheldon, but in the end the newer model SB with the enclosed gearbox won out,

I suspect that your Sheldon being ex military will have negligible wear - my SB was off a Coast Guard ship and apparently had very little use. You are right in figuring on needing to replace the dials, I've replaced them on every lathe I've rebuilt. As you said those tiny little dials need to be replaced anyway.

Have Fun!!


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## d4xycrq (Mar 5, 2015)

Pacer,

I can only hope for before and after pictures as profound as yours.  With two other lathes, this Sheldon will indeed end up on Craigslist someday.  One thing it will do my other two can't;  metric threads, as it has the metric thread attachment.  Thank you for the words of encouragement!  I need 'em!

Ray


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## mzayd3 (Mar 5, 2015)

Thank you for posting those couple of pictures for me!  It looks much easier to dismantle than I thought.  I am going to have to take mine apart and fix the locking mechanism.  Thanks again.


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## dozerbuilder01 (Mar 7, 2015)

That's such a shame. I have the same lathe except I'm not as lucky as you to have all of the attachments. If you ever give up on this project, I've seen a taper attachment, steady and follower rest, and a metric gear set sell for a good buck. The guy sold a whole lathe basically and he did alright. You could make your money back and then some. But good for you for saving this lathe. I have a soft spot for these since they were made in Chicago. I think that's pretty cool.


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## d4xycrq (Mar 14, 2015)

Thanks for the kind words, Dozer!  Yep, my "Plan B" is to part out the lathe....matter of fact, that was Plan A as soon as I saw the lathe in person on the day I picked it up.

Ray


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## d4xycrq (Mar 14, 2015)

Update:

The thread dial is (was) hopelessly pitted and unreadable.  Before:





I've faced the dial off down to unpitted metal and have rescribed.  (Based on a tutorial by Mr Pete222)

Here's the scribing done.





The dial is held in a collet following being faced on my South Bend Heavy 10.  I unplugged the lathe and would rotate the chuck around to eyeball the witness marks for the existing graduations, then drop the lathe into back gear to prevent undesired rotation of the work.  "Prime" marks for the whole numbers got two full turns on the cross slide, which on a Heavy 10 is two tenths of an inch.  Only one turn for the between marks.  The scribing is being done by a piece of HSS shaped into a V, turned on it's side.

Ray


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## d4xycrq (Mar 15, 2015)

Through the miracle of electrolysis:
Before:




After:




Compound and cross slide dials are unreadable...my intention is to either turn them down and fit PVC sleeves which will then be scribed, or, replace them with off the shelf dials.  Or, make new ones full stop.  We'll see.

Ray


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## d4xycrq (Mar 15, 2015)

Dies for stamping the numbers are on order!


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## d4xycrq (Mar 15, 2015)

And I thought South Bend castings were rough!


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