# New Pm 1030v Lathe



## shooter123456

I have been looking to upgrade my current lathe for a little while now.  I started on an HF 7x12 to learn the ropes, decide if I liked machining, and see if I was any good at it.  After spending at least 250 hours in 5 months on it, I decided that I liked it and wanted to move on to bigger and better things.  I sold the HF lathe and this Wednesday (7/27) I ordered the 1030v with QCTP.  I got the call from the UPS terminal this morning (7/29) that it is ready for me to pick up.  I had heard of long wait times but that thing got here in a day and a half.  (Pittsburgh to NC).  

I will be going shortly to pick it up and I will post pics later of everything is anyone is interested. The plan is to have UPS drop in on a trailer, back the trailer into the garage where it is going, then slide it off the trailer in front of the bench.  I am going to see if my brother, my dad, and myself can lift it 3.5 feet up onto the bench but if that fails, I have a reservation for an engine hoist tomorrow.  

I sent 8 emails back and forth with Matt at PM and he answered a whole ton of questions for me and I don't think any of the responses took more than an hour.  

If anyone has any ideas for getting the lathe up onto the bench without an engine hoist, I would be happy to listen.  I was thinking of trying to rig something up with a 3 ton floor jack that will get it about 2.5 feet, then placing the lathe on jack stands and finding a way to lift the jack up off the floor and lift it the last 1 foot.  I am not willing to risk damaging a $2000 machine though to save $20 on a hoist rental so if it seems at all sketchy, I will abandon that idea.


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## Gary Gill

From my own experience I'll suggest you get the right equipment and manpower to safely move the lathe.  I broke both bones in my leg and crushed my ankle with a lathe in 2009.  Another $50.00 in rental fees would have saved me thousands in medical bills.  Three surgeries and seven years later, it hurts most everyday. My impatience and frugal attitude was foolish.


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## Bob Korves

Too sketchy, and too dangerous!  What is the shipping weight of the lathe?  If you divide that by three and it is something you think you three can handle easily, then go for it.  Do you have plenty of access so the lift will not be awkward for anybody?  Getting it up even a few inches will make the lift easier.  Lifting a lathe is not worth hurting a back or foot or anything else.  Watch out for engine hoists, they are usually narrow at the mast end.  You may need to jack it high enough to get the hoist under it, and you must also be able to get the hoist under the stand/table.


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## wrmiller

It's a 400 lb. lathe. Two strong guys can pick it up and set it on it's stand. If you don't have two strong guys available, use a engine hoist, strap it up properly and lift it onto the stand. Emphasis on strapping the lathe properly, i.e., balance the lift, don't wrap the strap around the leadscrew, use a properly rated strap, etc., etc..

And congrats on the new lathe!


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## jer

First be careful and use good common sense. My 40+(YO) son, a strong 16 year old nephew and myself, 60+ (YO) lifted mine off my trailer. It was heavy but doable. I now have a 2 ton engine hoist and would use it when needed again. I may be unloading a knee mill next week, I hope that is enough for that 2000/2400 lb beast.


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## MSD0

I wouldn't take the chance of getting hurt or damaging your new lathe. A hoist will let you take your time and set it down exactly where you want it.


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## Muskt

Perfectly doable by yourself--IF CAREFUL.

My PM 12x36--assembled, & moved by myself + the engine hoist.

Best to you
Jerry in Delaware


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## shooter123456

Thanks for the replies everyone.  What we ended up doing was getting the crate onto a dolly, then sliding that right in front of the bench, taking the crate apart, and taking the chip tray, chuck shield, and tail stock off.  Then we slid a 2x6 under the headstock foot and I lifted from the tail stock and we were able to lift it without a problem. I was going to get an engine hoist, but by how easy it was to move the crate, we went ahead and give it a try. 

I got the chance to use it for a while today and my impression is somewhat mixed...

The good:

-The motor is very strong, much stronger than I am used to
-The QCTP is excellent, very fast tool changes
-The power cross feed is excellent, I don't know how I lived without it
-I like being able to rough cut quickly and switch to finishing speed quickly
-You can set the speed and turn it off then turn it back on and it returns to the same speed
-Tachometer
-Three jaw chuck was very accurate and the chuck key is beefy
-Tailstock was almost perfectly aligned
-Tailstock utilizes a lever lock
-Great surface finish in stainless with carbide insert tooling

The not so good:

-The gearbox is leaking oil from somewhere underneath.  I will have to try to figure that one out sooner than later
-The drip tray had fallen off the lid at some point and was just laying on top of the machine
-There are mulitple typos and mis-spellings on the machine itself
-The included manual is not accurate for the machine, full of typos and spelling errors, and tells me a lot more about machining than the actual machine (ie it says you can rotate the compound rest to turn a taper, but it doesn't say how to rotate the compound).
-The screws to mount the 4 jaw to the adapter plate were too high and there wasn't enough clearance between them and the spindle plate

Here is the crate at the terminal.  I moved it more toward the middle about a mile down the road.  It was bouncing the hitch up and down really hard so far back.




I didn't take any pictures of the moving process because we were a little pressed for time and we were busy trying not to break anything.  Here it is up on the bench.  It will be leveled out sometime this week.
	

		
			
		

		
	





Here is a muzzle brake suppressor mount I am almost done with.




Spot the typo.




There's two of them here.




Here is the screw on the 4 jaw, the picture is taken level with the rear of the adaptor plate.




I ground it down (not while it was attached to the chuck) and there is still enough meat to grab onto with the allen key.




Here it is with the clearance.  The mark on the spindle is for the 3 jaw.  There wasn't a mark already on the 4 jaw.





Overall I am very happy with it so far.  Some of the oversights and the manual were disappointing, but so far I am confident that the machine itself is capable and accurate.


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## MSD0

Congrats on the new lathe. Matt has been really good about taking care of issues on my lathe. The typos and manual are typical for Chinese machines. I think mine also has the "Don not remove knobs when machine is running warning" (Do not move knobs when running!).


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## shooter123456

**Edited to make the post less negative and to clarify my frustration with the manual, not so much the machine and QMT.  As you saw, at 6 oclock on a Sunday, Matt was around to help offering advice.  Thats not something you will see from many companies.**

I have been having some trouble with the change gears to cut a thread.  The manual doesn't provide a ton of insight.  Maybe it is due to my relative inexperience, or just because my work has been entirely with a HF 7x12 until now.

Step 5 says 'Install the gear couples according to the thread and feed table and screw the gearwheels onto the quadrant again."

So I need to know how to install these gears correctly.  What the proper order is (Square nut, e clip, coupler and gears, washer, and nut?) and how tight they need to be, how tight with the other gears, etc.  How do these square brass nut things work? How do I screw them back onto the quadrant?

Step 8 says "Readjust gear backlash by inserting a normal piece of paper as an adjusting or distance aid between the gear wheels."

How do I adjust the gear backlash?  What am I tightening or loosening and how tight or loose should it be?  Where is the paper supposed to go?  Between gear wheels as in the teeth or the flats between adjacent gears?

The gears are incredibly tight and sharp... Not sure yet if they need to be broken in or if I am doing something wrong.

The manual could use some improvement, but Matt has said they are working on that.

What do the H's and L's mean on the gear charts?


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## qualitymachinetools

Download the one on the 1127VFLB Page, it covers 95% of the information on this one too, they are almost the same. The manual for the 1022/1030 is coming up on our list, but will be some time.  And the paper is to get the backlash spacing on the gears.    Who is this by the way? You can email me direct, I have been here all day.


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## qualitymachinetools

http://www.machinetoolonline.com/files/PM-1127VF-LB_Manual_2015.pdf   Thats the link if you need it.


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## GA Gyro

Yeah... most stuff from the other side of the ocean... has manuals written by folks to whom English is a second language...
Chinglish is what it has been called.

Show a pic of the plate with the threading guides on it... usually on the headstock... and someone will walk you through it.


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## qualitymachinetools

Yes, and I am here for about another half hour if you email or call, after that, I am headed out for the day.   

-Matt


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## shooter123456

I think I have it mostly sorted out. The problem I am having is that the gears arent spinning in the shaft. When they turn they just tighten down until they lock. I think its because the square nuts dont fit properly with the gears and dont allow them to rotate freely.


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## qualitymachinetools

Make the sure washers in the back where it tightens agains that long bar arent getting bent in, try to flip them around if they are. I have had that happen, some people have used grade 8 washers and that seemed to take care of it too, since they are stronger


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## shooter123456

qualitymachinetools said:


> Make the sure washers in the back where it tightens agains that long bar arent getting bent in, try to flip them around if they are. I have had that happen, some people have used grade 8 washers and that seemed to take care of it too, since they are stronger



**Edited to remove unnecessary comment**

The washers arent bent in, flipping them doesnt help. Ill try out some grade 8 washers to see if that helps.


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## qualitymachinetools

It doesn't need them, it was just a suggestion to help try to get you going if that's what happened.


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## lpeedin

What part of NC are you in? If you are somewhere central, I will be glad to help you figure the machine out.  The gear swaps are confusing at first but once you figure it out it is a piece of cake.


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## shooter123456

3dshooter80 said:


> What part of NC are you in? If you are somewhere central, I will be glad to help you figure the machine out.  The gear swaps are confusing at first but once you figure it out it is a piece of cake.


I am in Cary, ill post my procedure to make sure I am not doing something wrong.  I might need to take you up one that.  Ill send Matt an email this morning as well.  

The problem is caused by 2 things as far as I can tell: every time I swap the gear couplers, the shafts on the square bolts don't fit anymore.  When I tighten the gears onto the quadrant and put the e-clips on, the e-clips bind to the gear causing the nut and clip to rotate with the gear, and tightening it until they lock in place completely.  

Here is what I did:

1. Open gear cover

2.  Loosen and swing out the quadrant

3.  Loosen and remove the square bolts and remove top two gear sets

4. Using a piece of aluminum tap out the gear couplers

5. Using the same piece of aluminum tap the coupler into the new gear then tap the next gear onto the coupler

6. Try to insert square bolts, they don't fit

7. Tap bolts into place, use wrench to rotate them until they can spin freely.  This took about 20 minutes each time (3 gear changes total)

8. Put washer between quadrant and gear assembly, install gear on quadrant and tighten down

9.  85% of the time, it would bind.  Anytime I tightened it, the bolt would tighten as the gears turned until they were completely locked into place.

10. Read manual again to see if I missed anything, nope nothing there to miss.

Anything there look wrong?  Are the gears and couplers supposed to be so tight they have to be tapped out?


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## shooter123456

GA Gyro said:


> Yeah... most stuff from the other side of the ocean... has manuals written by folks to whom English is a second language...
> Chinglish is what it has been called.
> 
> Show a pic of the plate with the threading guides on it... usually on the headstock... and someone will walk you through it.



I am able to get the jist of it.  I learned how change gears and such with my old HF lathe.  Its just some of the actual application I am struggling with.  I have contacted Matt about it and ill see what he says.  Im hoping to get it sorted out because most everything else on the machine is awesome.


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## GA Gyro

shooter123456 said:


> I am able to get the jist of it.  I learned how change gears and such with my old HF lathe.  Its just some of the actual application I am struggling with.  I have contacted Matt about it and ill see what he says.  Im hoping to get it sorted out because most everything else on the machine is awesome.



I purchased a mill and lathe from Matt... both were Taiwanese (cost more, higher quality).
Even the Taiwanese machines come with dismal manuals (there are ways to get around this with some googling). 
And yeah... there were some mechanical things to fix... 
It is one of those things... if one wants the quality of industrial grade machines...
They can choose between a new Lexus or a machine... because they are gonna cost about the same...
Otherwise... figure on doing some detail work to get things the way you want them.

Locally, I have some friends who have vintage American iron in their shops... and yeah, they have to do 'creative' stuff to keep them running also... and some vintage American iron does NOT have ANY paperwork available... none at all.  

It is the nature of the beast... however when one embraces the fiddling, one ends up with a better suited (to them) machine than anything on the market...

Call it customizing... [grin]... just part of having a hobby metal working shop...


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## shooter123456

GA Gyro said:


> I purchased a mill and lathe from Matt... both were Taiwanese (cost more, higher quality).
> Even the Taiwanese machines come with dismal manuals (there are ways to get around this with some googling).
> It is one of those things... if one wants the quality of industrial grade machines...
> They can choose between a new Lexus and a machine... because they are gonna cost about the same...
> Otherwise... figure on doing some detail work to get things the way you want them.
> 
> Locally, I have some friends who have vintage American iron in their shops... and yeah, they have to do 'creative' stuff to keep them running also.
> 
> It is the nature of the beast... however when one embraces the fiddling, one ends up with a better suited (to them) machine than anything on the market...
> 
> Call it customizing... [grin]... just part of having a hobby metal working shop...



I think I went into the new machine with the wrong attitude.  When I bought the HF lathe, I figured I wouldn't be able to get it working for a few weeks, that HF would provide me with next to nothing on how to use it, and that I would break a bunch of stuff before I did anything decent on it.  When I got this one, I figured I would be up and running right away since I already knew how to use a lathe and coming from PM I figured it would be a cut above the rest.  I think the machine is nicer than all the ones I have used or seen, but the manual is the same.  I think the difference is that Matt will help you figure out what is going wrong on a Sunday afternoon where other companies will take a week to get back.


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## GA Gyro

shooter123456 said:


> I think I went into the new machine with the wrong attitude.  When I bought the HF lathe, I figured I wouldn't be able to get it working for a few weeks, that HF would provide me with next to nothing on how to use it, and that I would break a bunch of stuff before I did anything decent on it.  When I got this one, I figured I would be up and running right away since I already knew how to use a lathe and coming from PM I figured it would be a cut above the rest.  I think the machine is nicer than all the ones I have used or seen, but the manual is the same.  I think the difference is that Matt will help you figure out what is going wrong on a Sunday afternoon where other companies will take a week to get back.



IMO this is a good evaluation of purchasing hobby grade machine tools for ones home shop.  
Few of us are like Jay Leno and can afford (and justify) top grade industrial machines... 
(And as I understand... there are customer service issues with $six figure machines also... [oooops]

IMO if we see hobby grade machines as a bargain with a few glitches... and just deal with the glitches...
We will come out WAAAY ahead.

There is a guy at the Gyro hanger that travels all over the country setting up large industrial machine tools.... mostly control and software issues.
You would pull your hair out if you knew the stuff he has to straighten out.  Many times, he has to find a local electronics 'junk store' (used stuff)... and custom make a few things... to get the machines up and running after delivery.  

Just one of those things... 

Having Matt available via phone... is a HUGE asset... not to mention Matt's attitude towards solving your issue(s). 
And generally, Matt's machines are a 'cut above' the competition of similar price... (pun intended).

Best to you on your new lathe, I suspect after the bugs are worked out... you will have lots of satisfying productive hours in your shop!

GA


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## Bamban

GA Gyro said:


> Yeah... most stuff from the other side of the ocean... has manuals written by folks to whom English is a second language...
> Chinglish is what it has been called.



If you think these manuals are bad, if you can read Chinese characters, you should read some of the translations done by English speakers into Chinese... lol


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## GA Gyro

Bamban said:


> If you think these manuals are bad, if you can read Chinese characters, you should read some of the translations done by English speakers into Chinese... lol



Would not surprise me... 
They hire the cheapest folks they can find... to do the translations.
And folks get what they pay for.

Funny, over all of the human race...
Folks have ALWAYS gotten what they pay for.

Hopefully folks will learn that reality and buy accordingly.


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## JimDawson

GA Gyro said:


> They hire the cheapest folks they can find... to do the translations.
> And folks get what they pay for.



The real problem is that the people hired to do the translation know nothing about the subject that they are translating.  I have had this problem when working out technical issues on customer machines in other countries, especially Asia.  In Europe, South America, and Mexico there is normally someone around that both speaks English and understands the equipment.

It might be worthwhile for the larger importers to write their own service manuals and operation instructions.  But that might be a huge undertaking.  A manual written for machinists by a machinist would be a really good thing


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## MSD0

shooter123456 said:


> I am in Cary, ill post my procedure to make sure I am not doing something wrong.  I might need to take you up one that.  Ill send Matt an email this morning as well.
> 
> The problem is caused by 2 things as far as I can tell: every time I swap the gear couplers, the shafts on the square bolts don't fit anymore.  When I tighten the gears onto the quadrant and put the e-clips on, the e-clips bind to the gear causing the nut and clip to rotate with the gear, and tightening it until they lock in place completely.
> 
> Here is what I did:
> 
> 1. Open gear cover
> 
> 2.  Loosen and swing out the quadrant
> 
> 3.  Loosen and remove the square bolts and remove top two gear sets
> 
> 4. Using a piece of aluminum tap out the gear couplers
> 
> 5. Using the same piece of aluminum tap the coupler into the new gear then tap the next gear onto the coupler
> 
> 6. Try to insert square bolts, they don't fit
> 
> 7. Tap bolts into place, use wrench to rotate them until they can spin freely.  This took about 20 minutes each time (3 gear changes total)
> 
> 8. Put washer between quadrant and gear assembly, install gear on quadrant and tighten down
> 
> 9.  85% of the time, it would bind.  Anytime I tightened it, the bolt would tighten as the gears turned until they were completely locked into place.
> 
> 10. Read manual again to see if I missed anything, nope nothing there to miss.
> 
> Anything there look wrong?  Are the gears and couplers supposed to be so tight they have to be tapped out?


There might be a burr on the bolt. Also make sure oil is getting to the bearing surface. I usually tighten the bolt first and then insert the clip on top. You can use paper to set the mesh or just do it by eye. The gears should rotated easily by hand, but should be fairly quiet when running. Open gear lube helps as well.


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## shooter123456

MSD0 said:


> There might be a burr on the bolt. Also make sure oil is getting to the bearing surface. I usually tighten the bolt first and then insert the clip on top.



Thats what I thought, but after getting them to rotate freely again, doing my thing with the machine, and changing gears again, the problem returned. I thought something was tapered and I was going the wrong way but that didn't seem to be it. 

Basically, everything stops fitting together when I change gears. I figured after the first time that would stop but it did so 3 times, even changing the same coupler with the same gears and the same bolt.

I also try to tighten the bolt first, then insert the clip, but when I do that, the clip does not fit. I have to loosen the bolt, then insert the clip, then of course it binds because the clip doesn't fit.


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## MSD0

shooter123456 said:


> Thats what I thought, but after getting them to rotate freely again, doing my thing with the machine, and changing gears again, the problem returned. I thought something was tapered and I was going the wrong way but that didn't seem to be it.
> 
> Basically, everything stops fitting together when I change gears. I figured after the first time that would stop but it did so 3 times, even changing the same coupler with the same gears and the same bolt.
> 
> I also try to tighten the bolt first, then insert the clip, but when I do that, the clip does not fit. I have to loosen the bolt, then insert the clip, then of course it binds because the clip doesn't fit.


Might want to check the clip for burrs. I had to break the edges on one of mine to get it to slip into place.


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## GA Gyro

And this is what makes THIS forum such a great place...

Folks jump in and help!!!

IMO one is not gonna get a perfect machine...
Even a Mercedes or a Lexus or a Bimmer is gonna go into the shop a few times when new...
And lets not get started on how ridiculous maintenance is on those money pits.

To be able to do the repairs on ones machines... and have all this free help, along with customer service from the supplier...

Sounds like a Win-Win to me!

Side note: I have been a MOD at a few other forums...
This one is by far the friendliest and most helpful place...


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## shooter123456

I was able to swap the gears and get a thread turned yesterday.  I am communicating with Matt to get that all worked out.  I didn't take a picture of the final thread and I will be re-doing this part because the concentricity wasn't good enough for me. 

Its coming along, I might need to file the gears a bit to get the bushings to fit well but there is plenty of time for that.  I played with the gears and bushings and found that most of the gears I use (I mostly just need the turning gears and gears for 24 TPI threading) can fit well with at least one of the bushings.  Maybe I need to mark the bushings to match the gears so I know which ones will fit where. 

Once I get this thing figured out, I will make the rest of the suppressor. I attached a model if anyone is interested in seeing that.

Brake with start of thread.





Model.




Model.





I appreciate the input from everyone here.  I tried everything proposed and I think removing a burr (That may or may not have been there...) helped.


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## MSD0

Glad it's working out for you. I think you have a nice machine by the the finish on that part.


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## shooter123456

MSD0 said:


> Glad it's working out for you. I think you have a nice machine by the the finish on that part.


I was very pleased with the finish.  That was at about 800 rpm with the finest feed it has and an indexable carbide tool.  Thats 303 stainless. When I was rough cutting, it took plunge cuts very well and did a great job removing material quickly.


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## lpeedin

I think you are headed in the right direction now.  I had to do some polishing of the gear bores to get them to fit on the couplers a bit easier.  I also had to do a small bit of polishing to the square headed shafts to get them to spin better inside of the couplers.    One of my first projects was to machine an extra square headed shaft and recessed washer as well as a couple of extra keyed spacers.  I am close by you.  I work over in Apex and actually cover the whole state for my job.  If you still have any questions, hit me up.  I pm'd you my phone number.  I'm always glad to help.  I have a good friend in the Smithfield area that also has a PM 1127VF-LB lathe and PM -727 mill just like me.  We are both always willing to help.  

Regarding the suppressor, that looks to be essentially a k-baffle design.  From what I have read, those are pretty effective relative to how difficult they are to make.  I have read about some guys making monocore type suppressors and they appear to be a difficult project.


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## shooter123456

3dshooter80 said:


> I think you are headed in the right direction now.  I had to do some polishing of the gear bores to get them to fit on the couplers a bit easier.  I also had to do a small bit of polishing to the square headed shafts to get them to spin better inside of the couplers.    One of my first projects was to machine an extra square headed shaft and recessed washer as well as a couple of extra keyed spacers.  I am close by you.  I work over in Apex and actually cover the whole state for my job.  If you still have any questions, hit me up.  I pm'd you my phone number.  I'm always glad to help.  I have a good friend in the Smithfield area that also has a PM 1127VF-LB lathe and PM -727 mill just like me.  We are both always willing to help.
> 
> Regarding the suppressor, that looks to be essentially a k-baffle design.  From what I have read, those are pretty effective relative to how difficult they are to make.  I have read about some guys making monocore type suppressors and they appear to be a difficult project.


Matt has sent me a few extra parts to try.  I will probably have to polish everything up and fit some of the gears to the couplers.  They are just incredibly tight at the moment. 

The supressor just has simple 60 degree cone baffles.  I made one with stepped baffles already and the guys over at silencertalk said that 60 degree cones are the lightest and strongest baffle shape and they are supposed to suppress subsonic 300 blk really well.  The stepped baffles only start to shine at the high pressures.


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## MSD0

shooter123456 said:


> Matt has sent me a few extra parts to try.  I will probably have to polish everything up and fit some of the gears to the couplers.  They are just incredibly tight at the moment.
> 
> The supressor just has simple 60 degree cone baffles.  I made one with stepped baffles already and the guys over at silencertalk said that 60 degree cones are the lightest and strongest baffle shape and they are supposed to suppress subsonic 300 blk really well.  The stepped baffles only start to shine at the high pressures.


Just curious on how the baffles are made?


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## shooter123456

MSD0 said:


> Just curious on how the baffles are made?


Im not sure how I will do it on this machine.  Likely I will take a piece of 1.375" SS rod, turn it to fit inside the tube, then drill out the bore undersized, use a boring bar with the compound set a 30 degrees (or 60 depending on how you like to reference your angles) to bore out the inside, then use a cut off tool to slot it at the end of the baffle, use a turning tool at 60 degrees again and shape the outside, then hopefully drill the bore to the full size and it should pop right off and only need a little clean up.


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## Subwayrocket

shooter123456 said:


> I sold the HF lathe and this Wednesday (7/27) I ordered the 1030v with QCTP.
> 
> If anyone has any ideas for getting the lathe up onto the bench without an engine hoist, I would be happy to listen. .


  Think about everyone you know who is a mechanic , welder , fabricator or has some sort of shop . Someone probably has one they'd loan you.  My buddy who owns the local scrap yard loaned me his , just had to trailer it over . Get good straps and it goes pretty easy. Look around for a loaner engine hoist ....or you could buy one at Harbor Freight ...use it once , then sell it assembled in like new cond for a little less than you paid .  Having a mill has caused me to now want a lathe ...I was looking at that 1030 , Nice machine , congrats !


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## shooter123456

Update and a few things I have learned that most of you probably know but if someone gets the machine later and is looking for info, they might see this.

First off, I spoke with Matt and he sent me some new parts for the change gears.  He sent 2 of the couplers, 4 or 5 of the square headed bolts, 5 clips, and the brass oiling inserts.  I spent an hour or two with the change gears, the bolts, and the clips to get everything fitting better.  I spun some sandpaper in a hand drill and sanded out the insides of the gears until the couplers fit snug, but not so tight they had to be tapped into place and not so loose the couplers would just fall out.  I also polished the square headed bolts up to 1000 grit sand paper so they would turn as resistance free as possible inside the couplers.  Last a filed down the backs of 2 of the clips so they wouldn't catch and start tightening down.  Now changing gears is pretty seamless. It takes me about 5 minutes from turning the part to diameter to taking the first threading pass. 

Still having an issue with the leaking gear box but we are trouble shooting and that will be resolved at some point.

A few things for new people/people considering the 1030V:

Changing the chucks is beyond easy.  There are 3 nuts on screws attached to the back of the chuck faceplate. To change the chuck, you loosen those 3 nuts, rotate the plate behind the spindle face, and pull the chuck through.  I didn't realize thats what the rotating plate was for, the first few times I took the bolts off all the way.  Don't do that, use that rotating plate.

To change the gears, a few things to note:

-There is a circuit breaker (or something...) on the rear upper left corner of the change gear cover to make sure the machine doesn't run without the cover on.  When you take the cover off, it will feel like there might be a hinge back there.  Its not a hinge, pull straight out away from the machine.
-The couplers are made of a pretty weak cast metal. No idea what it is, but if you force it into the change gear, it will deform and jam up the nut that it has to rotate on. 
-The change gear chart will tell you which gears need to be attached to each other and which order they should go.  The bottom most one goes directly onto the lead screw, then the two above it go on the quadrant with the last one interacting with the spindle gear. On the chart, the gears next to each other go on the same coupler.  If there is an H there, put one of the spacers on instead of a gear.
-When you tighten the quadrant back up, make sure the gears are spaced apart from each other so they don't rub on each other and grind.

A few things PMs site doesn't mention but are worth noting:
-Those little brass circles you see all over the machine are oilers.  Put a shot of oil in each one and it will lubricate the machine while you use it.
-The handle you use to move the apron has graduated markings on it.  That makes stuff much easier and that wasn't there on my HF lathe.
-The tailstock uses a lever to lock it in place.  I thought I would be using a wrench to lock and unlock it but that lever is fantastic.
-The lathe has plenty of power to cut threads at its lowest speed setting which is 54 rpm on my machine. Its so slow I find myself speeding it up to get to the next number on the thread dial, but then I have forever to stop the thread at the end (for reference, the 24 tpi thread for .5" I cut yesterday took a little over 12 seconds to traverse the entire thing.) This makes threading way less nerve wracking because you can see everything thats happening and have lots of time to react at the end of the thread.

I have a few more pictures for anyone interested. The finish on one of the parts was so great I wanted to leave it how it was and not use it.  But alas I have to use it, can't make multiples with suppressor parts.  I also marred up the outsides getting them apart.  Heres to hoping that buffs out.  As a side note, the 3 jaw is very accurate.  More than accurate enough for the stuff I am working on.  Chucking 1.5" steel rod in the 3 jaw it was .004" out.  After facing off, drilling, boring, threading, and tapering, then machining the brake and threading the mount onto the brake, the mount was turning .003" off center. This is fine because the parts that need perfect concentricity (The threads, the thread shoulder, the face of the mount, and the rear taper) were machined in set ups that ensured perfect concentricity (or as close as I can measure with a .001" DI) 

Suppressor mount





Muzzle brake and mount threading





Fit of the two parts


----------



## MSD0

Parts look really good. Glad your getting the machine sorted out. I had some trouble with the change gears on my PM1127. On one of the gears, the keyed bushing had to be pressed out about .010" to keep the clip from rubbing on the face of the gear. I might make new pins and use a c-clip and shims in the future.


----------



## NoobCanuk

Wow, that looks amazing.  I have just recently gotten time to play with my 1030v.  I think I'm having the same problems you were having with changing gears.  I did learn to figure out the order to stick the gears together for different threads but find the couplers are extremely tight and every time I changed gears had to use a punch to get it out.  I will likely copy what you did and try some fine grit sandpaper to file them down a tiny bit and clean up the gears as well (I actually broke one coupler it was so tight trying to get it to go).  

But glad you figured it out and it looks like you are off and running now.  I'd love to see pics of your suppressor build and see how it turns out.  Being in Canada those things are big time illegal so I can only dream of having one up here (but that doesn't stop me from watching you guys at work and seeing how they turn out).  One day I may travel with my wife and check them out in a country that allows them but until that day I have to settle on hearing your guys stories.


----------



## shooter123456

NoobCanuk said:


> Wow, that looks amazing.  I have just recently gotten time to play with my 1030v.  I think I'm having the same problems you were having with changing gears.  I did learn to figure out the order to stick the gears together for different threads but find the couplers are extremely tight and every time I changed gears had to use a punch to get it out.  I will likely copy what you did and try some fine grit sandpaper to file them down a tiny bit and clean up the gears as well (I actually broke one coupler it was so tight trying to get it to go).
> 
> But glad you figured it out and it looks like you are off and running now.  I'd love to see pics of your suppressor build and see how it turns out.  Being in Canada those things are big time illegal so I can only dream of having one up here (but that doesn't stop me from watching you guys at work and seeing how they turn out).  One day I may travel with my wife and check them out in a country that allows them but until that day I have to settle on hearing your guys stories.


I am finding more and more that the couplers are so fragile that anything more than light gentle pressure into the gears will  cause them to deform.  I will probably just buy a few extra gears for the threads I use most (actually I don't think I have ever done anything but 24tpi) or rig up a stepper motor to use instead so I don't need to change gears.

Regarding the suppressor, I will be sure to post some pictures when I am done. I have the end caps and 4 baffles finished.  I just need to make 4 more baffles and thread the tube.  Hopefully that will be finished up in the next week or two.


----------



## shooter123456

I took apart the cross slide and compound for cleaning after about a month of use. I took some pictures if anyone is interested. 

Here is the cross slide with the compound removed.  I can't tell you what the discoloration in the middle there is but it didn't come off with scotch brite and it was covered in a layer of oil so that makes me think it isn't rust.  You can see there that there doesn't appear to be a witness mark for the compound angle so once I figure out how to add one accurately, I will have to do so. You can see how the compound attaches with the t slots and nuts. 






Here is the underside of the compound removed  I was suprised to find that the motion screw was a standard 60 degree thread rather than an acme thread.  The one on my HF was acme and I thought that was the standard.  This could explain some of the troubles I have been having with it.  I am having a hard time getting it to move smoothly without binding while still being tight enough to cut well.  I don't think there is a way to convert this to an acme screw without making a new base for it so this will probably have to do for the forseeable future.  You can also see the underside of the ways here.  They aren't fantastic but they are good enough I think.  





Now here is a problem.  I had the hardest time focusing the camera on the finish for the compound gib but it looked like straight up tree bark.  My glove would catch on it when I ran it over the top.  This is on one of the sliding surfaces so that might explain some of the rough movement I was experiencing.  This will certainly need some work.  I may try to make one out of brass on my mill instead of trying to salvage this one.





I popped the cross slide off as well and I was suprised by what I found.  It appeared that the ways have been scraped on this one.  I am no expert but this is what I thought that would look like. You can also see where the oilers deposit the oil on the ways.  This gib was in much better condition.  As a side note, there is about 20 thousanths of movement I can't seem to remove from the cross slide.  It seems to be independant of the backlash and only results from direct force applied to the cross slide.  If that is confusing, I will turn the dial towards me say 5 turns, then reverse direction several turns (backlash is most certainly taken up) then pull towards myself from the far end, and it will slip and than catch with about 20 thousandths of movement.  I can then turn the dial the same direction and it continues without taking up any backlash.





Here is the carriage portion of the cross slide.  Everything here seemed to be in good condition.  This was before I cleaned everything up and as you can see there is some debris on the ways.  I am not sure if it was there when the machine was running or if it was deposited as I removed the cross slide.  Here you can see that there is an acme screw that the cross slide attaches to using a black and a bolt.  I am wondering if the acme screw is not properly secured and it is causing that 20 thousandths of movement I can't seem to locate.





I am still having trouble with the gearboxes leaking oil.  I will contact Matt about that again soon.  They told me the gaskets sometimes take some time to seal so I should give it a few weeks and if it didn't stop, get back in touch and we would go from there.


----------



## ASD9000

Man, I appreciate the update just got my pm-1030v set up today and decided to check out the forums after two weeks of waiting on a table and people to lift it. Is there something I should investigate strait out of the box first?


----------



## MSD0

It's always a good idea to go through the machine and do a good cleaning and inspection. There will probably be a few things that could be improved. On my 1127, I didn't like the way the VFD was mounted and ended up making a new mounting plate and cleaned up the wiring. I think I've also replaced most of the screws as well.


----------



## ASD9000

I need to pick up some wd40 and a spray bottle and start tearing it down then. New screws might be the first upgrade. Thanks for the heads up on the screws, I was hoping this wouldn't be like the mini lathes where all the screws were trash but it sounds like it is no better in that department.


----------



## shooter123456

MSD0 said:


> It's always a good idea to go through the machine and do a good cleaning and inspection. There will probably be a few things that could be improved. On my 1127, I didn't like the way the VFD was mounted and ended up making a new mounting plate and cleaned up the wiring. I think I've also replaced most of the screws as well.


You are right.  Initially I did a thorough cleaning and adjusted everything but not a complete disassembly.  It has been working pretty well, and over time I have been taking it apart further and adjusting it better.  I have been putting off leveling it which is probably a mistake.  I am going to need to run a jack through the table and lift it up a bit as it looks like the left side is bowing just a bit to the weight.  I am in no rush with it though and so far the limit to its precision seems to only be the amount of time I am willing to put into each operation.  I think if I go slow enough, holding .0003" or tighter will be possible.


----------



## shooter123456

ASD9000 said:


> Man, I appreciate the update just got my pm-1030v set up today and decided to check out the forums after two weeks of waiting on a table and people to lift it. Is there something I should investigate strait out of the box first?


Id say the first thing you get squared away is the change gears.  The couplers deform very easily and jam up so they need to be a sliding fit.  Tapping them in will only lead to trouble.  Once you get the machine, I would put the square nuts in the chuck and polish them up to a nice mirror finish.  Then do the same with the couplers until they are a solid sliding fit.  Not loose, but I have found they don't wear well.  If they are too tight, using force to try to fit them leads to trouble.

Then take a file to the change gear key ways and use some sandpaper to open up the insides until the couplers fit well without being forced into place.  If I spent 2 hours doing that, my first 2 4 hour gear changes would have been avoided.


----------



## shooter123456

MSD0 said:


> Just curious on how the baffles are made?


I just documented the baffles on silencertalk. Ill post a link in a sec if you are interested.


----------



## MSD0

shooter123456 said:


> I just documented the baffles on silencertalk. Ill post a link in a sec if you are interested.


Please do. Thanks


----------



## shooter123456

Anyone interested in seeing a bit of what this machine is capable of, you can have a look at the build thread I have going on silencertalk.

Link: http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=137116

I believe Matt and I have the oil leaking trouble resolved, I dont anticipate much trouble from here on out. Future changes will probably include flood coolant, a DRO for the apron and cross slide, leveling, and a collet chuck.

Projects on this machine will include chamber reamers which will really push the limits of the precision it is capable of, barrel work, more muzzle brakes, a .45 ACP suppressor with booster, and at some point, a scratch made bolt action reciever.

I am designing a chess set that will need to have production considerations to make 32 parts consistently. It will be a christmas present for my dad who has made all this possible. He gave me half of the garage, helped me design and build the bench, let me use his car and trailer to pick up materials and the machine itself, helped pay for the actual machine, helped move it, he even wired up an old TV in the garage and found me a heater for working in the winter. Needless to say, I couldnt possibly give him enough thank you's and I hope this present will put a dent in that debt of gratitude.


----------



## NoobCanuk

Wow, that was some beautiful craftsmanship in your posts.    I can't wait to see the finished brake now.  I should probably take some lessons from you on your brake project.  I have a 300 win mag that is a cheap rifle but with no brake it does beat a guy up if you shoot it too much. 

As for your dad I think you and I are in the same boat.  My dad gave me the shirt off his back growing up and I owe him a whole lot.  But now that I am a dad myself I can see where he gets the love... passing the love my parents gave to me on down to my son is the best way I know to show my appreciation to them for all they did and gave up for me.   But for now let your parents know how much you appreciate them and that is the best thank you any parent can ever get.


----------



## shooter123456

NoobCanuk said:


> Wow, that was some beautiful craftsmanship in your posts.    I can't wait to see the finished brake now.  I should probably take some lessons from you on your brake project.  I have a 300 win mag that is a cheap rifle but with no brake it does beat a guy up if you shoot it too much.
> 
> As for your dad I think you and I are in the same boat.  My dad gave me the shirt off his back growing up and I owe him a whole lot.  But now that I am a dad myself I can see where he gets the love... passing the love my parents gave to me on down to my son is the best way I know to show my appreciation to them for all they did and gave up for me.   But for now let your parents know how much you appreciate them and that is the best thank you any parent can ever get.



I appreciate that.  I got the can finished a few weeks ago and tested it out.  It works very well and I am very pleased.  My buddy shot it and wants one now too but he doesn't have the machining bug.

I try to tell my parents that I appreciate everything they do, but emotions are hard.  If I tried to count the number of times they went above and beyond for me, I would be here all day.


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## shooter123456

I was having trouble with the chuck binding up so I took it apart and gave it a good cleaning.  Figured I would take some pictures of the innards.  The machining is pretty rough and there were lots of burrs.  I stoned the ones I could reach and ever so lightly filed the ones off that my stones couldn't get to.  

In pieces






Back door





Some kind of gear whos name I do not know





Tried to get some of the burrs in this shot





Some of the rough machining





A little bit more





I started working on the chess set for Christmas for my dad.  So far I have the rooks and pawns designed and 3 of the 4 rooks finished. I am going to make a small ball turning tool to make the heads of the pawns.  I tried to make a form tool for it but it ended up not going so well.  I certainly enjoy the extra horsepower and rigidity of this lathe compared to my hold harbor freight when I am roughing off stock.  I made some T nuts and blocks so I can set the compound quickly for turning some of these body features.  Ill try to get a picture of that later.  When I was turning down from the 1.5" base to the 1" tower diameter, I was taking .050" deep cuts (.1" off the diameter) with 3/8" carbide insert tools running about 800 RPM on the fastest power feed gear and it was just ripping through it.  The finish was crap but that cleaned up at the end.

Here is one of the rooks with the stub still attached.  That black block is just hiding my name.  I plan to include a set of plans when I give it to my dad.  He is an electrical engineer (well he has the degree, he's an attorney though) and I think he will think its pretty cool. He will also be happy to know that I am using the machines for "More than just gun stuff".


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## tmarks11

shooter123456 said:


> As a side note, there is about 20 thousanths of movement I can't seem to remove from the cross slide.  It seems to be independant of the backlash and only results from direct force applied to the cross slide.  If that is confusing, I will turn the dial towards me say 5 turns, then reverse direction several turns (backlash is most certainly taken up) then pull towards myself from the far end, and it will slip and than catch with about 20 thousandths of movement.  I can then turn the dial the same direction and it continues without taking up any backlash.


Did you ever solve this problem?  It sound to me like the bearing that is right behind the cross slide handle on the apron needs to be tightened up.


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## brav65

NoobCanuk said:


> Wow, that was some beautiful craftsmanship in your posts.    I can't wait to see the finished brake now.  I should probably take some lessons from you on your brake project.  I have a 300 win mag that is a cheap rifle but with no brake it does beat a guy up if you shoot it too much.
> 
> As for your dad I think you and I are in the same boat.  My dad gave me the shirt off his back growing up and I owe him a whole lot.  But now that I am a dad myself I can see where he gets the love... passing the love my parents gave to me on down to my son is the best way I know to show my appreciation to them for all they did and gave up for me.   But for now let your parents know how much you appreciate them and that is the best thank you any parent can ever get.




 What great advice!  My Dad always seemed to be threatened and jealous of me and treated me horribly.  He now has a small part in my life which saddens me greatly.  I have  given up sooo much for my kids and am happy to do it.  Everything I do is to help my son and his sister be better people.  It is nice to see that there are other fathers who do the same for their kids.  I can already see the results as my son is 13 and is an intelligent, thoughtful and caring guy who many of the other guys are jealous of.  He does not understand why they are jealous, and I tell him just be who you are.


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## shooter123456

tmarks11 said:


> Did you ever solve this problem?  It sound to me like the bearing that is right behind the cross slide handle on the apron needs to be tightened up.


No I havent fixed that. I havent yet been able to get the apron all the way apart or remove the lead screw. It hasnt been a huge issue and im trying to get everything squared away for Christmas before I go back in and try again.


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## shooter123456

I mentioned using some blocks to set the angle of the compound quickly. Switching back and forth would have taken forever otherwise. This helped me get the last rook done is 36 minutes.

I used a dial indicator to set the compound initially, then poisitioned the 1-2-3 block against my squared up block and the compound and tightened it down. then when I switched back, I positioned it the same way. I didnt measure how accurately it repositioned but the parts were visually identical and thats the part that matters here.


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## tmarks11

I could be wrong, but isn't that toolholder in the last picture a left hand cutting tool?  Which is why you are having to angle your toolpost to get the cutting edge for a right hand cut?

I keep my toolpost at 90 degrees to the workpiece and the compound at 90 degrees to the cross slide, unless I am cutting threads or cutting a chamfer, in which case my toolpost is still at 90 degrees to the work, and the compound at the appropriate angle.  I use carbide tooling, and the manufacturer builds the toolholder with the most efficient cutting angle, so keeping it perpendicular to the stock works.



shooter123456 said:


> No I havent fixed that. I havent yet been able to get the apron all the way apart or remove the lead screw. It hasnt been a huge issue and im trying to get everything squared away for Christmas before I go back in and try again.



You don't have to take the apron apart.  YMMV, but you should be able to unscrew a cover off the center of the cross-slide handle, then remove the handle, which gives you access to a couple of screws holding the cross slide handle support block off.  Once you unscrew the SHCS holding the lead screw block to the cross slide, the entire assembly should pull out the front of the apron.  Maybe 5 minutes of work.  The supporting bearings for the leadscrew come out with it.


----------



## shooter123456

tmarks11 said:


> I could be wrong, but isn't that toolholder in the last picture a left hand cutting tool? Which is why you are having to angle your toolpost to get the cutting edge for a right hand cut?



That is a left hand cutting tool.  It was in there to cut the underside of the rook tower.  In the picture, the tool holder is loosened up so the 1-2-3 block could rest against the side of the compound without interference.  



tmarks11 said:


> which gives you access to a couple of screws holding the cross slide handle support block off



Thats as far as I have been able to get.  The bolts holding the block are so tight I haven't been able to remove them.  I was talking about that part when I mentioned taking the apron apart as I thought the cross slide was part of it.


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## NoobCanuk

Wow.  OK I must admit I am going to seriously follow your chess build.  That is a game my father taught me when I was young.  So I'd love to see how you do it and the final results.  I'm willing to bet they will be pretty amazing when you are finished Shooter. I'll have to do some thinking myself now and see if I can design a chess set for a project to tinker on this winter.   My farm is nearly done for this season so now I can return to my relaxing puttering around the garage.

Thanks for the idea and I hope you won't mind me quite likely copying yours.  But I wish you well and can't wait for more pics as you assemble your pieces.  Also thanks for the other pics... I never in a million years would have thought of those blocks to align the tool post as you switch angles frequently  (genius idea).


----------



## shooter123456

NoobCanuk said:


> Wow. OK I must admit I am going to seriously follow your chess build. That is a game my father taught me when I was young. So I'd love to see how you do it and the final results.



Ill probably start a new post somewhere for the chess set. Ive been using this one just to share things more specific to the lathe so when someone searches for info on the 1030V, hopefully they find this thread and get more info than was available when I was searching for a new lathe.



NoobCanuk said:


> Thanks for the idea and I hope you won't mind me quite likely copying yours.



Of course! Thats why I share them!


----------



## shooter123456

I came across an issue with the chess set I am making. I needed a .750" ball on top of the pawns and no way to make them. I tried making a form tool but abandoned that as I had trouble getting the radius formed accurately. 

So I made a ball turning tool using some scrap I had laying around. 

I used:
2 4x2x.5" 6061 blocks
1 6061 block cut off from my AR lower project
1 .750" O1 rod
3 5/16x18 bolts
1 washer
5 10x24 screws
1 3/8 carbide insert tool

Order of ops was pretty much just cut off the stock, located and drill a few holes, then countersink a bit, then onto the 4 jaw, face, bore the through hole to fit the pin I made. 

Then I made the tool post, attached to the body, then put it on the cross slide to mark the center height, milled the slot, drilled and tapped for hilding screws, and boom done. 

It ended up being a little but below center so itll need to be shimmed. I tested it on a piece of scrap, and even a little low. I ran it in reverse so I could keep the tool post and the ball turner on at the same time. 

Here are a few of the parts after coming off the 4 jaw. I was very pleased with the finish.






Here it is mounted up and after turning a ball. I need to make a cheater bar for it, but just holding the top plate went just fine.


----------



## shooter123456

Im working on a chess set for my dad and the pawns needed 5 tools. I didnt have enough tool holders but then I remembered the lathe also came with the original turret tool post. I dug that out, set up 4 tools on it, and the 5th in a QCTP holder and went to work. Im not sure if the turret post is more rigid than the QCTP, but all the troubles I was having with parting ops went away. It started going so well that I started using the power crossfeed with no issues. 

The two tool posts can be changed in about 15 seconds and until I can make more tool holders, its really nice to have the standard tools in the turret and the less used/need more height adjustment in the QCTP. 

I had some trouble getting good spheres on top of the pawns until I figured out that I wasnt centered. Once I did that, they all started coming out uniformly. Though I had to chop off one of the corners and grind a tool to get enough clearance from the chuck and the radius on the tower of the pawn. 

Im posting more pictures, just so anyone whos considering this lathe can see what its capable of. I was running the machine pretty hard while I was making these to try to speed things up. The pawns took about 35 minutes each from start to finish. The lathe was running full blast for probably 8 straight hours ranging from 200 rpm for the parting cuts to 800 RPM for the removal cuts. Also switch it to reverse to cut the tops. Not a single problem with the machine. Everything ran like a top exactly how it was supposed to. On the HF, it would have taken at least 3x as long and I would have to stop at least twice to fix or adjust something.

Heres a look at the form tool I made, getting lined up. Its .250" wide and running at 200 RPM, the lathe had no trouble with the cut. 





There were several low clearance parting cuts. That made stuff interesting.





Heres everything so far. You can see that some of the heads came out wonky but the rest are pretty uniform. I dont think they are so far out to throw them away and re do.


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## wrmiller

Nice!


----------



## shooter123456

Looks like its time for another update on the 1030 after roughly 300 hours of use. The machine is still running very well, and issues have been minimal.

The spindle developed a knocking at some point, that took some adjusting of the motor mount to re-tension the belt and pulleys.  That took about 10 minutes to locate (I originally thought it was coming from the chuck somehow) and 5 minutes to fix.  That was in the middle of december and I haven't had an issue since.

The 3 jaw started to come loose on me.  I think it was because of temperature changes allowing the bolts to loosen up a bit.  It didn't pop off or crash or anything, but when I started working one day (the first cold day we had this year), the finish was garbage on my part.  I checked the chuck last and the bolts were hardly torqued down.

I have spun some square parts off center, and I will certainly be needing a new bench for this thing.  It couldn't go over 300 RPM before the whole table started to rock back and forth.  I used it for facing and squaring some stock for my CNC conversion of the mill since I have trouble getting parts super square on the mill.  The head never seems to stay trammed for very long.  I also used it to bore out some holes on those parts with no trouble.

I threaded a part for 10x24 to make the cross for the kings on the chess set and it threaded the tiny rod very well. 

Here is the chess set as it was done on Christmas.  I didn't finish the bishops or the knights unfortunately.  I just wrapped up one of the kings and gave that to him, and he was thrilled.  I believe his exact words were "Holy **** you made this?!" then he asked if I was trying to make the whole set since he had seen the buckets and buckets of chips I had made.  Then I went into the other room and brought them out and there were more expletives.  When I asked him what he wanted for Christmas a month or so back, he said "A set of drill bits because I am pretty sure mine are pretty much yours now" (Whoops, I use his bits a lot...)






Here is a closer view of one of the kings.  I am going to mill the bottom part square at some point soon.





My girlfriend saw a ring like this online and she said thats the kind she likes.  A simple, shiny band.  (Its not a wedding ring, we aren't there yet).  I made this out of a piece of scrap 303 stainless, then polished it up to 2000, then hit it with mothers polishing compound until I could see myself.  It came out a little big for her, so I will make her another at some point.  It took about 4 hours to do.











The lathe is overdue for an oil change so I will need to set aside time to do that soon.  I am also looking into a flood coolant system for it and I will need to build a new stand because the one I have now isn't cutting it.  I will also be making a chamber reamer with it in the coming months so it will need a little bit of work before I do that. I am confident I will be able to hold .0005" with it when I do that.  It should also see some barrel work soon too.  

I got some cool stuff for it for christmas including a live center, an MT4 to ER32 collet holder (poor mans collet chuck?), a set of ER32 collets and 2 green mountain barrel blanks.  When I do the barrel work, I am either going to need to make an outboard spider, or rig something up to hold with 8 points of contact in the 4 jaw.  The collet holder advertises .0002" of runout, but I haven't been able to mount it up to confirm.  Though I am not hopeful it will do that well.

Here is the collet holder with the largest bolt they had a lowes.  It needs an M16 bolt thats at least 8 inches long to use for the draw bar and they only had 6".  I am going to look at fastenal before I make one.


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## ASD9000

That chess set looks great! It reminds me I need to practice more. I ended up doing an oil change, and boy do I recommend it. I posted some pictures of the stuff i found, and it is not limited to whats in the pictures, there was more but when I opened the apron is when I felt the need to take pictures, since as you see there are epoxy pebbles inside.

A quick question anyone come up with an apron lock yet? I was cutting a large tube and was wishing I had it.


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## ch2co

"Here is the collet holder with the largest bolt they had a lowes. It needs an M16 bolt thats at least 8 inches long to use for the draw bar and they only had 6". I am going to look at fastenal before I make one."

How about all thread? Make your own length.

CHuck the grumpy old guy


----------



## shooter123456

ch2co said:


> "Here is the collet holder with the largest bolt they had a lowes. It needs an M16 bolt thats at least 8 inches long to use for the draw bar and they only had 6". I am going to look at fastenal before I make one."
> 
> How about all thread? Make your own length.
> 
> CHuck the grumpy old guy


I thought of doing that, but Lowes and Home Depot didn't have M16 all thread. I found some at fastenal but it was $18 for a foot of it, but I didn't want to spend that. Instead, I found a 100mm M16x2 bolt, drilled and tapped the head for 5/16x18, and used that and a 5/16x18 bolt to hold it in place.  Seemed to work pretty well.


----------



## shooter123456

I have had a few people PM (hehe PM in a PM forum) about the power and rigidity of the machine, especially at the low end.

Here is a short video of it parting 1.5" 4140 using a 3/32 wide cobalt HSS parting tool held in the included QC parting tool holder.  It is cutting using the power feed too which means the motor has to provide the torque to move the tool and the stock.  As you will notice, it isn't the best set up for rigidity since the piece is 36" long at this point, the tool has to stick out pretty far to get to the middle, and its 2" away from the chuck face.  You'll notice that it really doesn't care and its having no trouble.  This is probably the most torque and rigidity demanding thing I have done with it.


----------



## DrAsus

Awesome thread!

DrAsus

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk


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## BellyUpFish

shooter123456 said:


> You can see there that there doesn't appear to be a witness mark for the compound angle so once I figure out how to add one accurately, I will have to do so. You can see how the compound attaches with the t slots and nuts. .



Did you ever tackle this problem? 

I had my 1030V apart last night for some "initial cleaning" and noticed this very thing. Going to have to add a witness mark somehow..


----------



## shooter123456

BellyUpFish said:


> Did you ever tackle this problem?
> 
> I had my 1030V apart last night for some "initial cleaning" and noticed this very thing. Going to have to add a witness mark somehow..


I haven't bothered.  For angles that matter, I set them with a dial indicator.  The ones that don't matter, guestimating has been fine and I probably get within 5 degrees just eyeballing where a witness mark might be. 

My plan for fixing it though was taking a little metal pointer that came off my mill, cutting of the tip, and super gluing it to cross slide.  To set the compound to exactly zero, I was going to chuck something up, cut it until its concentric and a clean surface, then use the DI to line the compound up.


----------



## shooter123456

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.





I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


----------



## shooter123456

I have been running the lathe hard this weekend.  It has started to complain and I can tell it needs some maintenance. 

It turned a 1.5"x48" piece of 4140 steel into 4 TTS style tool holders, 5 profiled TTS blanks, 1 unprofiled blank, 1 piece of precision scrap that I hope to salvage into a drill chuck holder, and 6" of steel with a center drill spot on the end.  I was running .015" cuts at its fastest feed rate and about 900 RPM.  It was removing a ton of material very quickly. 

Here are the holders. I wasn't too concerned with making them identical to each other. You can see that they are slightly different from each other. 





I also made some D bits using O1 tool steel.  They are 55 degrees and 35 degrees.  I was only planning to make 1, but I accidentally made the 35 degree one when I needed the 55 degree one. This was to make new gibs for my mill. 





I thought the tool looked really good before I tempered it so I took a picture.





I really need to change the oil, take the machine apart and clean it, then put it back together and get everything adjusted again.  Too many projects I wan't to do and I keep putting off the maintenance...


----------



## shooter123456

Ya know how you learn more, then do something you have done plenty of times, but now that you know more, you notice things that you never noticed before?  Well thats what happened to me! I took apart a bunch of the lathe to clean everything up and found some trouble.  I also tried using the 4 jaw to indicate something in true and found a bunch of run out, so much so that the whole chuck is visibly eccentric when the lathe is on, and at higher speeds, its shakes the lathe as if I am turning off center. 

Lets start from the beginning.  The compound. I took off the tool holder and loosened the gib then walked the top of the compound off the bottom of it.  Looking at the compounds base dovetails, I see that there is a very thin wear strip on both sides, and it doesn't look like it is wearing anywhere else.  I am wondering if there are burrs on the top dovetails that are preventing decent contact and causing that strip of wear.  I just got a granite surface plate so once I figure out how to do the dye transfer thing I see in a lot of videos, I will find out how flat it is. Pics of that:











Also, the base a has very nice ground finish on the top... But that doesn't touch anything.  Why is that ground but the ways themselves are just machined (and somewhat roughly I might add)?  I saw a video about the Seig X2 mill where the guy said the Chinese were getting a reputation for very poor quality so they started grinding the dovetails instead of machining, except they ground the surfaces that don't touch anything and left all the contact surfaces roughly machined.  I wonder if thats the case here...

Moving on, I took the cross slide off ,and noted a few things.

-There are gouges in the bottom dovetails
-There are corresponding dings in the top dovetails
-The gib is only spotted twice even though there are 4 gib screws and 1 locking screw
-The nut for the lead screw is a split nut with tensioning screws, but they were not tensioned
-The cross slide ways are scraped, but there is still rough machining left in some areas.  Shouldn't that have been ground first, then scraped?
-There is play in the lead screw end block that seems to be on par with the 20 thou movement I couldn't seem to remove, though I am not certain thats what is causing it.  I can't find any other play in the assembly.

Picture of the bottom dovetail gouges. It was tough to get the picture, but the gouges are along the right side running almost the full length of the dovetail.





Picture of the dings that caused those.  I looked back at the pictures from when I first got the lathe, and the dings are there, I just didn't notice them.  I think this happened before I got the lathe because the picture of the assembly from 6 months ago was taken when the slide was removed, wiped off, then the picture was taken.  No where for it to have gotten that. 





Picture of that split nut.  The machining is pretty rough, but this is the bottom and it doesn't touch anything. The top is better, but not by much.  When I put it back together, I will try to tension the screws and see how much backlash is removed.





Picture of the gib.  You can see it is ground very nicely, but only 2 spots, despite the 5 screws.  Is that normal?  All the gibs I have ever come across are spotted for each screw.





Here is the rough machining on the scraped ways.  I wonder if that is just a low spot or an oversight.  Seems like a waste to go through the effort of scraping to leave a few sections of rough machining.  Also, is scraping always done by hand or was this done by a machine?  





Here is a picture of the play I found in end block.  I am not sure if it is supposed to have play, but I haven't been able to find anywhere else that the movement could be coming from.  Is there a way to call users in this forum? Maybe @qualitymachinetools could have a look and tell me if that looks right. 





Now on to the 4 jaw.  I took it apart to see if I could find whatever is causing the run out.  It was really bad.  After indicating a part in true so there was less than .00025" ecentricity at one point, about .150 inches farther out from the chuck, it was out .003".  No amount of tapping with a dead blow or adjusting the jaws could get it to run within .001 at both points .150 inches from each other.  The part that was grasped in the jaws and the part being indicated where machined together, in 1 set up, one after the other.  As in I roughed both diameters, finished one, then finished the other, so its very unlikely that the part was bumped or shaken loose between those two cuts.  It was also consistent among 3 different but identical parts.  

As a side note, is there any way to check that the cross slide travel is perpendicular to the spindle bore?  I am not sure how I would measure that.

I measured the spindle again, both inside the taper and on the face.  There was the faintest wiggle from the taper with a .0005" DTI, but it must have been under .0001".  Though when I first got the lathe, I checked the same spot with the same indicator and got absolutely zero movement.  The face was also perfectly square.  The indicator showed almost no movement, less than the spindle taper.  I also pushed on the spindle to check the bearings and even leaning into it fairly hard, it didn't move at all.  Thats a good sign right?

When I took the chuck apart, I noted several things.
-There are a few dings on the rear of the chuck with the backplate removed.  The first thing I did when I got the lathe was clean the faces and remount the back plate.  I don't recall scuffing it up at all, and I was specifically careful not to drop it or place it on any rough surfaces. The lathe did ship with the 4 jaw assembled and the back plate installed if I recall correctly.  I think the dings and scuffs are from carelessness from the manufacturer.
-The backplate has a ground surface and a machined surface on the face that faces the back of the chuck.  Again, the ground surface doesn't contact anything and the register surface is machined. 
-The bore that registers on the spindle nose is machined, not roughly, but definitely not as nice as a ground finish
-The face that registers on the spindle face is ground, though the 3 jaw that shipped with it isn't ground on that face if I remember right
-The rear of the 4 jaw is ground, though there are some dings on the register surface and a deep gouge on the back of the face that doesn't contact anything. 

Here is picture of the back of the chuck.  Note the dings, gouges, and scuffs, as well as the nice ground finish.





Tried to light up the gouge so you can see how deep it is.  That sucker is nasty and I am trying to imagine a way that it got in there.





Here is the backplate on the end that contacts the chuck.  You can see the ground surface where it touches nothing, but the machined surfaces where it contacts other parts.  You can also see what looks like chatter marks in the bore.





So thats how it looks after 6 months of use.  I want to figure out how to check the contact in the dovetails and see if the ground surface is worthwhile, or if the rough edges defeat the purpose.  I also want to see if the cross slide is making decent contact in the ways, or if those wear marks are really the only areas where it is touching. 

So a few questions if anyone has gotten this far:

1. Whats with the very nicely ground non contact surfaces, and less nice machined contact surfaces everywhere?
2. Where should I look to find the 4 jaw run out? 
3. How do I check that the apron travels parallel to the spindle bore and cross slide is perpendicular?
4. What is the right way to measure flatness and squareness of the dovetails?

I hope the updates and pictures are worthwhile to people considering the machine, as well as those who already have one.  I am learning as I go and I am still pretty new to machining.  I got my 7x12 lathe in February 2016 and the PM 1030V in August 2016, so I only have a year of experience with lathes.  Though I learn more and more and I am doing my best to pass that on.


----------



## Bob Korves

Too many questions for me to address, but I will touch on a couple of them...  Some of the non-touching surfaces are reference surfaces, and they need to be correct for completing the rest of the part to the correct geometry.  The factory scraping you are looking at is decorative, nothing more...


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## shooter123456

Bob Korves said:


> Too many questions for me to address, but I will touch on a couple of them...  Some of the non-touching surfaces are reference surfaces, and they need to be correct for completing the rest of the part to the correct geometry.  The factory scraping you are looking at is decorative, nothing more...


I appreciate the answers.  I hadn't thought about the ground surfaces being reference surfaces.  Makes a lot of sense.  Thats unfortunate about the scraping.  Ill have to see how flat it really is.  Thanks again!


----------



## Bob Korves

shooter123456 said:


> I appreciate the answers.  I hadn't thought about the ground surfaces being reference surfaces.  Makes a lot of sense.  Thats unfortunate about the scraping.  Ill have to see how flat it really is.  Thanks again!


I feel some dissatisfaction and frustration in your posts.  Pretty much all that you posted are definite issues with your lathe, but you do have to look at the big picture.  These lathes are mass produced to a very low price point for the amount of parts and machining that go into them.  Proper fits take time, lots of time, which costs money.  Dings and rough work arise from hectic work, all again to get it out the door at the price point.  Corners are further cut to undercut the competition.  It is amazing that these lathes are as inexpensive as they are, even with their warts, when just the multiple markups and multiple shipping costs are considered.  So, we get machines that will operate but will not be at their best potential.  As hobbyists, we can spend the time and effort that the factory did not, and get them improved to our expectations.  Hobbyists work cheap...  Or we can buy MUCH more expensive machines that come nicely finished and ready to do accurate work.  TANSTAAFL.


----------



## jbolt

The following assumes the spindle is aligned to the bed and there is no twist in the bed.

For the chuck start at ground zero and measure the face of the spindle. Next check for burrs and install the back plate and measure the face of the chuck mating surface. Next check for burrs and install the chuck body and measure the face. 

The spindle should be good. If the back plate is not running true you can skim cut the mating surface. If the chuck body is out it would need to be disassembled and examined. 

If all of the above are good it could be the jaws or T-slots are not perfect. You can check that with a precision ground rod by measuring along the top and front checking for taper. Turn the chuck 1/4 turn and measure again.

The quick and dirty method for checking the cross slide is to face a piece of material, the larger the better, and running an indicator across the face. It should read zero across the entire face. 

Use a 0-4-0 dial test indicator for the above.


----------



## shooter123456

Bob Korves said:


> I feel some dissatisfaction and frustration in your posts.  Pretty much all that you posted are definite issues with your lathe, but you do have to look at the big picture.  These lathes are mass produced to a very low price point for the amount of parts and machining that go into them.  Proper fits take time, lots of time, which costs money.  Dings and rough work arise from hectic work, all again to get it out the door at the price point.  Corners are further cut to undercut the competition.  It is amazing that these lathes are as inexpensive as they are, even with their warts, when just the multiple markups and multiple shipping costs are considered.  So, we get machines that will operate but will not be at their best potential.  As hobbyists, we can spend the time and effort that the factory did not, and get them improved to our expectations.  Hobbyists work cheap...  Or we can buy MUCH more expensive machines that come nicely finished and ready to do accurate work.  TANSTAAFL.



I don't mean to give the impression that I am unhappy with the machine. I am very satisfied with it and I think I have done some excellent work with it. 

My intention with these posts, and this thread really, is to try to get information out there about what people can expect from the lathe and to identify the issues with it so that it can be improved.  I'm also trying to learn more. I see things that I think are off, but they may be fine, I just don't know any better. 

So I'm not trying to poopoo the machine or dissuade anyone from buying one.  I just think it has massive potential beyond the results I have been seeing (again, not that I am dissatisfied) and I hope to achieve that potential by identifying shortcomings and correcting them. All of the "complaints" (is that the right word? I don't feel like I'm complaining) I have posted are either for the benefit of others who have the machine or might get one so they know what they should look for to fix, or they are for me to get guidance from the more knowledgeable people here as to how best to address them. 

Again, when I say "there is rough machining here" or "I found some dings there" I'm not saying "Look at this piece of ****, this lathe is garbage" I'm saying "I could get better rigidity and motion if I smooth out this area" or "Check for dings there so you don't Marr up this other part."

I do apologize if my posts come across negatively. I love my machines and I like working on them as much as I like making stuff with them. 

My Dad is an attorney and my mom is an accountant. I read a quote once that said "Never go to an attorney or accountant for help, they are trained to seek out problems, not solutions."

I texted my dad when I read that and said "Looks like I got shafted since I can't go to either of my parents for help." He replied "It's a lot easier to come up with solutions when you have already found the problem."


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## shooter123456

jbolt said:


> The following assumes the spindle is aligned to the bed and there is no twist in the bed.
> 
> For the chuck start at ground zero and measure the face of the spindle. Next check for burrs and install the back plate and measure the face of the chuck mating surface. Next check for burrs and install the chuck body and measure the face.
> 
> The spindle should be good. If the back plate is not running true you can skim cut the mating surface. If the chuck body is out it would need to be disassembled and examined.
> 
> If all of the above are good it could be the jaws or T-slots are not perfect. You can check that with a precision ground rod by measuring along the top and front checking for taper. Turn the chuck 1/4 turn and measure again.
> 
> The quick and dirty method for checking the cross slide is to face a piece of material, the larger the better, and running an indicator across the face. It should read zero across the entire face.
> 
> Use a 0-4-0 dial test indicator for the above.


Thank you for the response. I will try that now.


----------



## Bob Korves

shooter123456 said:


> I don't mean to give the impression that I am unhappy with the machine. I am very satisfied with it and I think I have done some excellent work with it.
> 
> My intention with these posts, and this thread really, is to try to get information out there about what people can expect from the lathe and to identify the issues with it so that it can be improved.  I'm also trying to learn more. I see things that I think are off, but they may be fine, I just don't know any better.
> 
> So I'm not trying to poopoo the machine or dissuade anyone from buying one.  I just think it has massive potential beyond the results I have been seeing (again, not that I am dissatisfied) and I hope to achieve that potential by identifying shortcomings and correcting them. All of the "complaints" (is that the right word? I don't feel like I'm complaining) I have posted are either for the benefit of others who have the machine or might get one so they know what they should look for to fix, or they are for me to get guidance from the more knowledgeable people here as to how best to address them.
> 
> Again, when I say "there is rough machining here" or "I found some dings there" I'm not saying "Look at this piece of ****, this lathe is garbage" I'm saying "I could get better rigidity and motion if I smooth out this area" or "Check for dings there so you don't Marr up this other part."
> 
> I do apologize if my posts come across negatively. I love my machines and I like working on them as much as I like making stuff with them.
> 
> My Dad is an attorney and my mom is an accountant. I read a quote once that said "Never go to an attorney or accountant for help, they are trained to seek out problems, not solutions."
> 
> I texted my dad when I read that and said "Looks like I got shafted since I can't go to either of my parents for help." He replied "It's a lot easier to come up with solutions when you have already found the problem."


I probably came across wrong as well, because it was also obvious in your posts that you want to make the machine better while you have it apart.  That is the perfect way to do things, and I try to do the same, leave everything better than I found it.  Stoning dings and burs, improving fits, smoothing surfaces, making the geometry correct.  Those are all pretty simple and satisfying tasks (except the geometry) that all of us can do with our machines, no matter how good or bad they were from the factory.  We also learn how things work in the process, and acquire new skills and new understanding of how things work (and don't work.)


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## Bob Korves

shooter123456 said:


> I appreciate the answers.  I hadn't thought about the ground surfaces being reference surfaces.  Makes a lot of sense.  Thats unfortunate about the scraping.  Ill have to see how flat it really is.  Thanks again!


Ground surfaces are not always reference surfaces.  Sometimes they are just the easiest and quickest way to do an operation on the part.  I find myself doing a lot of that with my new/old surface grinder.  It is important to understand the generation and uses for reference surfaces.  You cannot use ways for reference surfaces because they are worn, but sometimes you can use a portion of the way where there has been no sliding contact.  A big flat reference surface that is convenient for measuring and testing the other surfaces is ideal.


----------



## KeithK

I'm looking into picking up PM-1030v and have not been able to really find any videos of this lathe in action. How big of a cut can you take on Steel before she starts complaining? Also are you still happy with the machine?

Thanks
Keith


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## shooter123456

KeithK said:


> I'm looking into picking up PM-1030v and have not been able to really find any videos of this lathe in action. How big of a cut can you take on Steel before she starts complaining? Also are you still happy with the machine?
> 
> Thanks
> Keith



I havent taken much video of the lathe since I dont have a tripod and its hard to run it with one hand while recording.

Its hard to say about how big of a cut it can take. When I am roughing, I usually set the feed to its highest setting and take .03" cuts (.06" off the diameter) with the 3/8" carbide insert holders everyone has. It doesnt have any trouble doing that in O1, W1, 1018, 4140, or 303 stainless. I have never used it to cut hardened steel or any of the more exotic materials. I have experimented with deeper cuts on the slowest feed, but the lighter cuts at fast speed tend to remove material fastest for me. I have cut at deep as .1" (.2 off the diameter) while running the lathe at a low speed and feeding by hand. It works, but its not happy doing it. When I have enough stock in the chuck and the workpiece is thick enough, I have taken .05" cuts (.1" off the diameter) on the middle feed setting and that's about as much as it can handle before it really struggles. You can hear the motor strain and the RPM dips, but it manages to pull through the cut. 

I am still happy with the machine. Ive mentioned a few times in this thread that this lathe was the "reach" for me. I was looking at the 10x22 lathe from Grizzly when someone pointed out PM to me and it was like bells went off in my head. The 1030v addressed all the shortcomings I considered when looking at the 10x22. The 8" longer bed, the 1HP variable motor, the power cross feed, the tachometer, and tailstock lever lock where all big pluses. 

Also, I was upgrading from a Harbor Freight 7x12 which I think is a contributing factor to my satisfaction with the 1030. The 7x12 weight 90 lbs and I could move it myself. The 1030 is a little over 400 and I needed my dad and brother to help me get it onto the bench. It is much better built than the 7x12 was, and the extra size and power really blew me away after being used to the 7x12. 

Also, you really cant beat the customer service. After dealing with other companies in the past and the difficulty with getting help, I would pay more for an inferior product from PM specifically for their customer service. All of the issues I have contacted them about recieved responses from people within 24 hours. Usually within 2 hours, an actual person will respond either with an answer or "Matt is out doing such and such and will be back around X time to answer this question." Its the little things like that that make the big difference. 

Im happy to answer any other questions you have. I am coming up on 9 months of ownership with it and many hundreds of hours running it. If I had all of my money back, I would buy the lathe again. I dont think any machine out there could beat the 1030 in the price range with the features I wanted and the customer service they offer.


----------



## KeithK

shooter123456 said:


> I havent taken much video of the lathe since I dont have a tripod and its hard to run it with one hand while recording.
> 
> Its hard to say about how big of a cut it can take. When I am roughing, I usually set the feed to its highest setting and take .03" cuts (.06" off the diameter) with the 3/8" carbide insert holders everyone has. It doesnt have any trouble doing that in O1, W1, 1018, 4140, or 303 stainless. I have never used it to cut hardened steel or any of the more exotic materials. I have experimented with deeper cuts on the slowest feed, but the lighter cuts at fast speed tend to remove material fastest for me. I have cut at deep as .1" (.2 off the diameter) while running the lathe at a low speed and feeding by hand. It works, but its not happy doing it. When I have enough stock in the chuck and the workpiece is thick enough, I have taken .05" cuts (.1" off the diameter) on the middle feed setting and that's about as much as it can handle before it really struggles. You can hear the motor strain and the RPM dips, but it manages to pull through the cut.
> 
> I am still happy with the machine. Ive mentioned a few times in this thread that this lathe was the "reach" for me. I was looking at the 10x22 lathe from Grizzly when someone pointed out PM to me and it was like bells went off in my head. The 1030v addressed all the shortcomings I considered when looking at the 10x22. The 8" longer bed, the 1HP variable motor, the power cross feed, the tachometer, and tailstock lever lock where all big pluses.
> 
> Also, I was upgrading from a Harbor Freight 7x12 which I think is a contributing factor to my satisfaction with the 1030. The 7x12 weight 90 lbs and I could move it myself. The 1030 is a little over 400 and I needed my dad and brother to help me get it onto the bench. It is much better built than the 7x12 was, and the extra size and power really blew me away after being used to the 7x12.
> 
> Also, you really cant beat the customer service. After dealing with other companies in the past and the difficulty with getting help, I would pay more for an inferior product from PM specifically for their customer service. All of the issues I have contacted them about recieved responses from people within 24 hours. Usually within 2 hours, an actual person will respond either with an answer or "Matt is out doing such and such and will be back around X time to answer this question." Its the little things like that that make the big difference.
> 
> Im happy to answer any other questions you have. I am coming up on 9 months of ownership with it and many hundreds of hours running it. If I had all of my money back, I would buy the lathe again. I dont think any machine out there could beat the 1030 in the price range with the features I wanted and the customer service they offer.



Shooter, thank you for getting back to me. I too am coming from a HF 7 x 12, I have the machine as dialed in as I could get it but it sure is frustrating when parting steel's and takes a long time to turn material down not too mention if you take just a wee bit too much the machine will start fine then shut off on over current in the middle of that cut. I'm sure you know the frustrations that machine brings, but i must say it was a very good learning tool on how to rebuild one. LOL.

Sounds like it will be a huge leap for me and some welcomed relief. BTW, I love that chess set you're building it looks awesome.


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## hlj3

I just received my PM1030V a few weeks ago, and did the 3 man lift on to the bench. If I had to do it again (which I do) I will use a shop crane with a load leveler. I still have to bolt it down, level it and setup. I'll be making tobacco pipes on it for the most part, but I'm sure a few unrelated "special projects" will crop up soon.
H L


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## KeithK

hlj3 said:


> I just received my PM1030V a few weeks ago, and did the 3 man lift on to the bench. If I had to do it again (which I do) I will use a shop crane with a load leveler. I still have to bolt it down, level it and setup. I'll be making tobacco pipes on it for the most part, but I'm sure a few unrelated "special projects" will crop up soon.
> H L


Congrats, can you keep us posted on your experience with the new machine.


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## shooter123456

I tried something I hadn't done on the PM1030v yesterday: Metric Threading.  Since discovering the 4 jaw had some really bad runout problems, I had 5 TTS holders that were not going to be usable.  To save them, I decided to make them into ER20 holders instead and bore the collet taper on the mill to ensure runout is minimized.

There was only 1 hiccup with the operation.  Since it was metric threading and the leadscrew is imperial, I only engaged the thread lever when the chasing dial was on the 1.  Second pass and it was off.  Maybe something is wonky or I was wrong about being able to use the thread chasing dial, but after the second pass, I left the lever engaged and just turned the lathe off and reversed it for each pass.  The thread was an M25x1.5 and material was 4140.

Here is that holder:


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## shooter123456

Double Post.


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## shooter123456

Triple Post.


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## Bob Korves

shooter123456 said:


> I tried something I hadn't done on the PM1030v yesterday: Metric Threading.  Since discovering the 4 jaw had some really bad runout problems, I had 5 TTS holders that were not going to be usable.  To save them, I decided to make them into ER20 holders instead and bore the collet taper on the mill to ensure runout is minimized.
> 
> There was only 1 hiccup with the operation.  Since it was metric threading and the leadscrew is imperial, I only engaged the thread lever when the chasing dial was on the 1.  Second pass and it was off.  Maybe something is wonky or I was wrong about being able to use the thread chasing dial, but after the second pass, I left the lever engaged and just turned the lathe off and reversed it for each pass.  The thread was an M25x1.5 and material was 4140.
> 
> Here is that holder:


You cannot use the thread dial AT ALL for metric threading on an imperial lead screw, the half nuts must stay constantly engaged.  Actually, there is a workaround for that, but will not get into it unless you want it.  Is the three jaw accurate enough for what you are doing?


----------



## shooter123456

Bob Korves said:


> You cannot use the thread dial AT ALL for metric threading on an imperial lead screw, the half nuts must stay constantly engaged.  Actually, there is a workaround for that, but will not get into it unless you want it.  Is the three jaw accurate enough for what you are doing?


Thank you for the guidance.  I must have mixed it up with something else, and it made sense in my head that even if I engage on the same spot, it will enter the thread in the same place. Apparently, thats not so.  

If the workaround is relatively simple and easy to do, I would love to try it, otherwise, I am content stopping and reversing.  It takes a little longer but its not a big deal for me.

Regarding the 3 jaw, it should be plenty accurate.  I indicated off the largest diameter which should be concentric with the shank and using a deadblow, I can get it running within .001" or less. As far as I know, the key part with the collet holder is that the taper is concentric, and as long as the threads are close, it won't cause a problem.  The taper will be cut will the tool holder installed in the mill, so hopefully, that will lead to almost no run out.


----------



## Bob Korves

The workaround is, that while you must always leave the half nuts engaged the same way while threading metric on an imperial lead screw, you can disengage them if you are able to put them right back where they were originally.  That means more than, say, always engaging the half nuts at number 1.  The gearing is not repeating correctly when you have the metric change gears in the system.  The spindle and the lead screw have an oddball gear ratio that only repeats after many revolutions of the threading dial.  So, if you disengage the half nuts, you must re-engage them exactly where you disconnected them, and on the same revolution of the threading dial.  Follow along with this...  Engage the half nuts and note the reading.  It can be on any line or part way between them, but must go back the same way, so remember it exactly.  Make your first pass, disconnect the half nuts, retract the tool one turn, and IMMEDIATELY turn off the lathe.  In that amount of time, the threading dial will not have turned one complete revolution.  With the tool safely out of the work, start the lathe in reverse, and when your spot on the threading dial comes around in reverse, engage the half nuts again.  Let the carriage continue under power back to the start of the thread position and turn the lathe off.  Leave the half nuts closed this whole time.  Advance the tool for the next cut.  Start the spindle again in the forward direction to make the next cut.  Lather, rinse, repeat.  There is no magic here.  We are just cheating a bit to get the tool out of the work safely at the end of the cut, and then closing the half nuts again exactly where we disengaged them.  If you lose track of the threading dial rotation doing this, you are lost.  It works just fine -- if done correctly.  Practice on some scrap until you are happy with how it works and have the muscle memory to repeat it for each pass without messing it up.


----------



## pstemari

Note that the procedure isn't much better on a lathe with a metric leadscrew. While all standard inch threads will have an exact count in 16 turns of the leadscrew (== 4" of travel) (and usually much less), the way metric threads are specified is such that you don't get an exact count until you have gone much further and many more turns. 

They do make metric thread chasing dials, but they are much more complicated and you have to wait longer for them to come around to the starting point.

It's a shame the single point dog clutch on the HLV-H lathes never made its way into general usage. Instant stop, easy reverse, and no threading dial worries.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## Bob Korves

The relevant part of the video starts at 17:30.  This video just came out two days ago, and I just watched it.


----------



## shooter123456

Bob Korves said:


> The workaround is, that while you must always leave the half nuts engaged the same way while threading metric on an imperial lead screw, you can disengage them if you are able to put them right back where they were originally.  That means more than, say, always engaging the half nuts at number 1.  The gearing is not repeating correctly when you have the metric change gears in the system.  The spindle and the lead screw have an oddball gear ratio that only repeats after many revolutions of the threading dial.  So, if you disengage the half nuts, you must re-engage them exactly where you disconnected them, and on the same revolution of the threading dial.  Follow along with this...  Engage the half nuts and note the reading.  It can be on any line or part way between them, but must go back the same way, so remember it exactly.  Make your first pass, disconnect the half nuts, retract the tool one turn, and IMMEDIATELY turn off the lathe.  In that amount of time, the threading dial will not have turned one complete revolution.  With the tool safely out of the work, start the lathe in reverse, and when your spot on the threading dial comes around in reverse, engage the half nuts again.  Let the carriage continue under power back to the start of the thread position and turn the lathe off.  Leave the half nuts closed this whole time.  Advance the tool for the next cut.  Start the spindle again in the forward direction to make the next cut.  Lather, rinse, repeat.  There is no magic here.  We are just cheating a bit to get the tool out of the work safely at the end of the cut, and then closing the half nuts again exactly where we disengaged them.  If you lose track of the threading dial rotation doing this, you are lost.  It works just fine -- if done correctly.  Practice on some scrap until you are happy with how it works and have the muscle memory to repeat it for each pass without messing it up.


I get what you are saying. The method would allow me to disengage the half nuts to stop the carriage long enough to turn the machine off.  Then reverse to the same number, engage the lever again, and back it up. I typically run the lathe slow enough and have enough room that I can have my left hand on the power off button and my right hand on the crossfeed.  Once I get to the thread relief, I power off and back up in the same motion.  It usually stops within half a turn.  I have had a good deal of practice with it the past few days threading these holders.


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## shooter123456

I have a quick update after almost exactly 1 year of ownership of the lathe.  Everything still works well and the machine cuts great.  

I had some trouble recently with the finish going to crap and the machine starting to chatter way too soon with relatively light cuts.  After taking the carriage apart, I realized I had never adjusted the carriage tension screw (because I didn't know where they are).  There are 4 screws on each side, on the bottom of the carriage.  Of the 8, 5 of mine were completely loose and the last 3 were barely tensioned.  I should have adjusted that a long time ago.  After less than 2 minutes of fiddling, it can again take cuts to the point that the motor starts struggling and there is no chatter.

I also had my power button break off yesterday.  After what must have been several thousand button presses, the top part broke off the bottom part.  The lathe is still in warranty for another 2 years, so I emailed PM about it and 2 minutes later, they responded asking for the address for them to send a new one.  






I also made a negative rake insert to try on it and the 1030v can absolutely handle negative rake tools.  This is a screenshot from a video I took with the machine cutting .08" deep, or .160 off the diameter in 12L14 steel.  You can see its making a nice chip, no strings, and leaving a nice finish.


----------



## Ironken

shooter123456 said:


> I have a quick update after almost exactly 1 year of ownership of the lathe.  Everything still works well and the machine cuts great.
> 
> I had some trouble recently with the finish going to crap and the machine starting to chatter way too soon with relatively light cuts.  After taking the carriage apart, I realized I had never adjusted the carriage tension screw (because I didn't know where they are).  There are 4 screws on each side, on the bottom of the carriage.  Of the 8, 5 of mine were completely loose and the last 3 were barely tensioned.  I should have adjusted that a long time ago.  After less than 2 minutes of fiddling, it can again take cuts to the point that the motor starts struggling and there is no chatter.
> 
> I also had my power button break off yesterday.  After what must have been several thousand button presses, the top part broke off the bottom part.  The lathe is still in warranty for another 2 years, so I emailed PM about it and 2 minutes later, they responded asking for the address for them to send a new one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also made a negative rake insert to try on it and the 1030v can absolutely handle negative rake tools.  This is a screenshot from a video I took with the machine cutting .08" deep, or .160 off the diameter in 12L14 steel.  You can see its making a nice chip, no strings, and leaving a nice finish.



My switch broke too, I got one off of ebay for about 5 bucks using the numbers on the old switch. Can you give a few more details about the 8 adjusting screws (gibs?)?


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## shooter123456

Ironken said:


> My switch broke too, I got one off of ebay for about 5 bucks using the numbers on the old switch. Can you give a few more details about the 8 adjusting screws (gibs?)?



I am sure I could have done the same, but I figured I paid a little extra for the PM because of the warranty and service, so I might as well use it.  In the past, they have shipped things to me same day and they have never charged for a part or for shipping.

About the screws.  I don't know if you would call them gib screws because they aren't really gibs as far as I know.  Maybe someone else here knows better what they would be called.  I took some pictures to try to point them out.  

This picture is of the top of the apron looking down.  The arrows point to the location of the screws, but the screws come up from the bottom. 





It was very difficult to get pictures of the bottom because there is no light and no room to get the camera.  This picture shows 2 of the 4 screws on the far side.  They were the easier ones to get to.





On the closest side of the apron to the operator, these are the 2 screws on the left side.





On the closest side, to the right, there are 3 screws, but I think one of them is the carriage lock, only 2 of them are adjusted.  I think the two that are highlighted are the correct 2. 





I don't think they get locked, and they couldn't be snugged up all the way or the apron locked in place.  Maybe they are supposed to be shimmed so they can be torqued down and still allow movement without being loose.  But just tightening them up made a world of different with the surface finish and chatter issue that popped up.


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## Ironken

Thank you Shooter for taking the time to clearly show me what you did. I'm going to go take a look at mine now. This is good to know.


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## shooter123456

Another shoutout to PM customer service.  When the power button broke, they had a new one to me in 2 days.  It was easy to replace.

I think I now have my first major failure on the machine.  During a relatively heavy cut, one of the fuses literally exploded in the machine. It destroyed the fuse holder and melted through the plastic nut securing it.

For reference, the cut was .08" deep (.16" off the diameter) in a 1.25" piece of 1018 steel, cutting .005"/rev and 500 RPM.  An online calculator estimates that this particular cut used about .75 HP.  

Here is a picture of the fuse holder on the machine.  It is in the back panel, not the front one. You can see the melted plastic nut on it.  It had to be cut off to remove.





Here is the inside of the fuse holder.  When I took it off, it just fell apart.  The threaded cap with the metal insert on top melted completely.





It was in the middle of this cut when it failed.  Its a pretty deep cut for this particular machine, but it creates a fantastic chip and just drops them right below, no flinging.  Also, the finish is pretty great especially considering it was a heavy roughing pass using a 90 cent chinese insert and a homemade 12L14 tool holder. 





I cant tell you how much more enjoyable turning is when the chips are well controlled.  Its much easier and nicer to cut with the chips just dropping below instead of being chucked at you or creating really long strings.  The machine was cleaned completely before I started. All of those chips were made in about 5 minutes.





While I was searching for the part that failed, I took the front cover off and got a look inside the head casting.  I have never seen a picture of that before so I decided to post it.  Its not as thick as I thought it would be given how rigid and heavy the machine is.  I also didn't realize that the part directly adjacent to the spindle nose is the head casting.  I thought there was a piece of sheet metal covering it.  They certainly do a better job cleaning up the casting on the outside than they do the inside.  I also noticed that there is paint on the spindle shaft.  I didn't expect that.  I figured the paint would have been applied before the spindle was installed.  Also, given how rigid the machine is, I figured the screws securing the head to the bed would be much bigger.





Here is a closer look.


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## tweinke

Bummer on the fuse holder! Sure cant beat the customer service though, like you said. I wonder if the failure of the fuse holder was due to a poor connection at the fuse holder.


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## Howard70

I'm definitely not an expert, but that fuse looks like it didn't "blow" on the strip that usually burns through.  Rather it appears that the connection between the fuse and the holder simply got hot enough to burn the surrounding material.  I wonder if that fuse wasn't effectively too "high"?  It might have been rated to give at 10 amps, but actually held through 15 or 20 amps which then allowed the holder & wiring to melt?

Thanks for the detailed accounts of your experiences with the lathe.  I'm new at all this & reading detailed accounts like yours sure helps me understand which machines might be appropriate for my use.

Howard


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## shooter123456

Howard70 said:


> I'm definitely not an expert, but that fuse looks like it didn't "blow" on the strip that usually burns through.  Rather it appears that the connection between the fuse and the holder simply got hot enough to burn the surrounding material.  I wonder if that fuse wasn't effectively too "high"?  It might have been rated to give at 10 amps, but actually held through 15 or 20 amps which then allowed the holder & wiring to melt?
> 
> Thanks for the detailed accounts of your experiences with the lathe.  I'm new at all this & reading detailed accounts like yours sure helps me understand which machines might be appropriate for my use.
> 
> Howard


I don't think the fuse blew the way it was supposed to either.  I have blown fuses on machines plenty of times and you can usually hear a pop or a crack when it stops.  This time, all I heard was the power relay stopping (same click you hear when you hit the start/stop buttons).  It was a weird failure for sure and several things don't entirely add up.  The fuse is a 15 amp fuse and its connected to a 15 amp residential circuit.  That circuit is also powering several other things such as the light over the lathe, the outside sprinkler system, the house internet, and a computer, and a fan.  I do trip the circuit breaker fairly regularly but if the fuse blew, I can't see how the circuit breaker wouldn't have been tripped sooner.  

I also calculated the force required for the cut I was doing and its estimated at .5-.8 HP which means the fuse shouldn't have had more than 750 watts going through it.  A 15 amp 250v fuse should be able to manage 3,750 watts without burning up.

So it was a failure, the fuse or fuse holder did not function properly.  Both have been replaced though and the machine is back up and running.  

I am glad this post has been helpful for you.  I try to update it fairly regularly because when I was shopping for it, there were lots of questions I couldn't really answer about these machines without having already owned several machines.  Questions like: What kind of cuts can the machine handle, how reliable can I expect them to be, what kind of accuracy can I expect from it, what kind of features do I really want and what features would I never use?  I hoped this would help some people decide if this lathe is what they are looking for.  I am happy to answer any specific questions if you have them.


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## shooter123456

Lathe is back up!  Only down for a day this time.  I got an inline fuse holder and fuses for $8 at a local auto parts store and connected it in about 5 minutes.

Here is the part I was working on when it broke.  Its a spindle for a micro lathe I am going to build specifically for pumping out custom screws and bolts for me.  That is a AAA battery for scale.  The bearings are both a light press fit and the thread on the back is 7.25"x20 TPI for a lock nut.


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## Z2V

Shooter, after seeing all you've done with this lathe I ordered one for myself today. I expect to have it next week.
Thanks for sharing your experience with this machine. 
Your fathers chess set it awesome BTW, great job!


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## shooter123456

Z2V said:


> Shooter, after seeing all you've done with this lathe I ordered one for myself today. I expect to have it next week.
> Thanks for sharing your experience with this machine.
> Your fathers chess set it awesome BTW, great job!


Maybe its time I start charging PM commission to keep this thread going.  

I am glad I was able to help you reach your decision.  PM makes a great product and I have been very happy with mine.

Thank you for the compliment on my dads chess set.  Unfortunately that project has been stalled for a while since I don't have the equipment I need to make the knights.  I need a 4th axis on my mill for that...

Stay tuned, I have some big projects planned with the lathe soon.  Among them:
-Acme lead screws and nuts for the micro lathe I am building
-An ER32 collet chuck for the lathe
-A custom collet system similar to a 2C collet system for the micro lathe
-A BT20 or BT25 spindle for a future milling machine
-Rotary hex broaching
-An electronic lead screw

Best of luck with your new machine.  Let me know if you have any questions or there is anything I can help with when you get it.


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## Z2V

I'm sure you will figure out finishing the chess set. 
I'll be watching


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## BellyUpFish

Shooter -

Could you give a PM1030V noob a quick synopsis of threading on this machine?


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## shooter123456

BellyUpFish said:


> Shooter -
> 
> Could you give a PM1030V noob a quick synopsis of threading on this machine?


Sure thing.  The big parts are:

1. Change gear set up
2. Tool Set Up
3. Use of the thread dial
4. Actual threading operation

I will take this from the point that you know what thread you want to cut, the stock is secured in the chuck and it is turned to the correct diameter.

*Change Gear Set Up*

First up is setting up your change gears.  This will make sure that the carriage (part that moves while the machine is cutting) advances the correct amount while the spindle is turning so that the thread is cut.  Decide your thread pitch (threads per inch) and locate that pitch on the chart on the change gear cover on the left side of the lathe.  It will give you an arrangement of gears to get the right ratio.  Lets say you want to do 24 TPI.  The chart tells you to use "H-55, 40-60, 80-H".  I am not exactly sure what the H is supposed to stand for, but you use a spacer in that case.  That tells you that when you change the gears, the bottom one will be a spacer then the 80 tooth gear, then above that you will use the 40 and 60 tooth gear (40 tooth engages the 80 tooth), then the top gear set that will mesh with the spindle gear is a spacer then the 55 tooth gear.  When you are putting the gears onto the little keyed bushing that goes inside them, be careful and dont force them in.  They are made out of some very soft and easily deformed metal.  If they take more than a light press with your thumb to slide in, take a file to your gear and open it up slightly wherever it is sticking.  If you force it, it will deform and then they won't spin.  When you install the gears onto the machine, take a piece of paper and put it between the gears while you mesh them together.  Once the paper is crushed between the teeth, tighten the gear in and turn the gears to slide the paper out.  That makes sure the spacing between them is good.  Make sure you set the gear knob on the gear box to the right setting (A, B, or C).  That's it for the gears.  I usually spin the chuck with my hand a few times just to make sure everything is spinning right.

*Tool Set Up*

Now that you have your change gears set up, its time to set up your tool.  First thing to do is set the compound.  There are 2 bolts right above the base that you will loosen to rotate it.  You want to set it to about 29.5 degrees. It doesn't need to be perfect, but do your best to get close.  This will make sure the tool is cutting on one side of the thread instead of both sides.  This will cut the cutting force in half and make it much easier on the machine (think turning vs parting or using a form tool).  Use a fishtail gage to grind a HSS tool to the right shape.  You want to get it as close as you can here.  You can try using the carbide triangles or threading inserts, but I never had much luck with those.  It goes better with HSS.  Make sure the tool is sharp and the cutting edge is touched up on a stone.  Also give the nose a slight radius.  Also use the fishtail gage to make sure the tool is perpendicular to the work.  That part is important too.  Once the compound is set to 29.5 degrees and the tool is squared up to the work, you are ready to move on. 

*Thread Dial*

One of the things that always tripped me up about threading was using the thread dial.  It is used to make sure the half nuts are engaged in the same place on the lead screw so that the tool enters the cut in the same place each time.  When threading 24 TPI, you can engage the half nuts on 1, 2, 3, or 4.  There is a chart that tells you which numbers you can use for each pitch.  If you don't want to learn about that, just pick one number and use that number each time.  **Note, if you are doing a metric thread, you can't use the thread dial.  Don't disengage the half nuts at all during the cutting operation.**

*Threading Operation*

Once you are all set up and know how to use the thread dial, its time to thread.  First, set the compound dial to zero.  Then turn on the lathe and touch off the tool.  Zero the cross slide.  I usually put layout dye on the part to be threaded and use a parting tool to put a thread relief at the end of the thread.  If you don't know what that is, its a little slot put at the end of the thread to give you a place to stop the tool. I usually do mine 5ish thousandths deeper than the thread should be. Ok, now its time to take your first pass.  First pass is a "scratch pass".  I usually feed in .001", turn the lathe down to about 100 RPM, and engage the thread lever.  The thread lever is the big one in the bottom right of the carriage.  The one up and to the left of that is for the power feed and cross feed. Once it is engaged, watch the cut and try to use your right hand to disengage it at the end of the cut and your left hand to retract the cross slide.  Run the carriage back to the starting position and turn the lathe off.  I use a thread gage now to double check that the pitch I have is right.  If it is right, run the cross slide back to zero, use the compound to feed in between .003" and .007" depending on material and how confident you are.  Repeat this until the thread is cut.  Every 3 or 4 passes I usually do a spring pass where I do a cut without feeding any deeper.  There is a "correct" way to know when your thread is done, but I don't have the right stuff to do that so I do it like this.  If I have the part it will be threading into, once it threads on, it is done.  If I don't have that part, once there is no more blue on the top of the threads (or very little blue), the thread profile is done. 

I think that about covers it. Does that help?


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## BellyUpFish

shooter123456 said:


> Does that help?



I'd say that sums it up incredibly well. I've printing the "Shooters Guide to Threading" out and it'll be in my filing cabinet, next to my lathe.I really appreciate it.  

I'm planning on YouTube binging tonight on some threading videos, but your comments really put it all into perspective. 

Now I guess it's just a matter or giving it a shot. 

Thanks again.


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## shooter123456

BellyUpFish said:


> I'd say that sums it up incredibly well. I've printing the "Shooters Guide to Threading" out and it'll be in my filing cabinet, next to my lathe.I really appreciate it.
> 
> I'm planning on YouTube binging tonight on some threading videos, but your comments really put it all into perspective.
> 
> Now I guess it's just a matter or giving it a shot.
> 
> Thanks again.


Im happy I was able to help.  I know it is intimidating at first.  When I first had my 7x12 lathe, I didn't think I would ever be able to cut a decent thread.  I think it took me 5 tries to get it right (most mistakes wouldn't have happened with the 1030v) but after the next 5 threads, it was as easy as any other lathe operation.  It isn't nearly as hard as it looks once you have done it a few times.  Good luck!


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## Bob Korves

For your first threading sessions it is useful to do dry runs.  Set everything up, and then move the carriage far away from the work.  Practice engaging the half nuts at the right spot(s) on the dial, and it is not near the number, it is in the same spot every time.  It might be a little to the left or right of the number, or dead in the center, but once you make a cut, see the same picture every time.  You can engage the half nuts slightly early and the handle will stop half way until the screw and half nuts finish lining up, and will then drop in at the correct spot.  After you have practiced cutting air for a while, and you feel like you have the correct muscle memory, then try it well away from the work, learning the timing of releasing the half nuts at the desired spot and backing out the cross slide.  Finally, go for it for real.  Start with the tool well to the right of the work until you are very comfortable threading.  If something goes wrong, like missing the correct threading dial engagement, just disengage the half nuts and start over.  If you start too close to the work, the work can be ruined by the time you stop the tool.  Lots of margins and slow spindle speed at first, give yourself all the time you need to not mess up.  Speed will come with time, practice, and experience.


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## jer

Good description related to threading. My 1030 has served me well for two years, my jobs now require a bigger machine but until that the 1030 was a good choice. I would like to keep both but room dictates one needs to go. Now just need to find a local needing a good smaller lathe. I'm sure the average home shop would be pleased with one.


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## BellyUpFish

Well, I've threaded.. 

I didn't change the gears, I just set everything up and practiced threading.

My threads, who knows what pitch, I think are too tight, as it gets deeper into the cut, it's like it's turning the threads off the work.

I also only have a carbide insert, I need to try some HSS bits, but I need to pick up a jig for grinding the threading tool.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## shooter123456

BellyUpFish said:


> Well, I've threaded..
> 
> I didn't change the gears, I just set everything up and practiced threading.
> 
> My threads, who knows what pitch, I think are too tight, as it gets deeper into the cut, it's like it's turning the threads off the work.
> 
> I also only have a carbide insert, I need to try some HSS bits, but I need to pick up a jig for grinding the threading tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


For some reason, your picture shows up in the email alert I got and the reply quote, but I get a red X in the actual thread. 

Looks like you had a good practice run.  If you didn't change the gears and just used the feed gears, you will have a very very fine pitch thread which looks like what I am seeing.  I counted roughly 40 TPI, which means the max thread depth is only .016". To get those to form well, you would probably need a sharper tool.  The threading carbide inserts usually specify what range of thread they are meant for.  They usually have a bit of a radius on the nose and larger inserts have too much of a radius to do fine threads. 

But they actually look like threads which is a good start.  My first go, if I showed you what I ended up with and told you I was threading it, you would think I was doing it with a chainsaw after 10 beers.  

Is that a chip guard you have at the bottom there?  If so, I would love some details on it.


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## Bob Korves

shooter123456 said:


> you would think I was doing it with a chainsaw after 10 beers.


Is that what I have been doing wrong all this time?


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## BellyUpFish

Pulled the gears and swapped them out today, just to see what I could make happen.

Went with your example for 24tpi threads.

Still not the best, but for my 2nd attempt, I'll take it.







shooter123456 said:


> Is that a chip guard you have at the bottom there?  If so, I would love some details on it.



It is. I just had some .080"/2mm aluminum sheet laying around so I just put some holes in it using the rest holes already in the slide.








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bob Korves

You need to load your photos to H-M using the instructions that are below where you compose your post.  They need to be in a file format that you upload to this site.  That is how you make the red X's go away and let  us see what you are posting.


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## BellyUpFish

My apologies. I do most of my posting via TapaTalk, didn't know the photos were supported here.

Let's see if this works.  Try #1.





Try #2.




And my chip protector.


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## Z2V

You got it.


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## pstemari

BellyUpFish said:


> ...
> 
> Try #2.
> 
> View attachment 243039
> 
> 
> ...



Looks like your compound angle is off. Depending on how your lathe graduations are laid out, you need either 29°–29.5° (from perpendicular) or 60°–60.5° (from the lathe axis).

The general principle is that the angle must not exceed that of the thread flank. As you get closer to 30° from perpendicular, the chip on the right side gets thinner and more of the cut takes place on the left. If you go over 30°, though, you wind up with a lop-sided thread and a staircase on the right flank.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## BellyUpFish

pstemari said:


> Looks like your compound angle is off. Depending on how your lathe graduations are laid out, you need either 29°–29.5° (from perpendicular) or 60°–60.5° (from the lathe axis).



Maybe I need to experiment with it some.

It's set as close as I could get it to 29.5°, I think..


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## mksj

You want 60.5 degrees on that scale, which correlates to 29.5 degrees relative to the spindle, at 0 degrees the cutter is perpendicular to the spindle.


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## BellyUpFish

Ah, well learning has occurred.. 

I'll see if I can go play with it in a few. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## BellyUpFish

Well, looks like 60.5 is where it needs to be..


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## Z2V

shooter123456 said:


> Sure thing.  The big parts are:
> 
> 
> 
> *Tool Set Up*
> 
> Now that you have your change gears set up, its time to set up your tool.  First thing to do is set the compound.  There are 2 bolts right above the base that you will loosen to rotate it.  You want to set it to about 29.5 degrees. It doesn't need to be perfect, but do your best to get close.  This will make sure the tool is cutting on one side of the thread instead of both sides.  This will cut the cutting force in half and make it much easier on the machine (think turning vs parting or using a form tool).  Use a fishtail gage to grind a HSS tool to the right shape.  You want to get it as close as you can here.  You can try using the carbide triangles or threading inserts, but I never had much luck with those.  It goes better with HSS.  Make sure the tool is sharp and the cutting edge is touched up on a stone.  Also give the nose a slight radius.  Also use the fishtail gage to make sure the tool is perpendicular to the work.  That part is important too.  Once the compound is set to 29.5 degrees and the tool is squared up to the work, you are ready to move on.
> 
> 
> I'm confused here. Shooter123456 has the same machine and told you 29.5and his threads seemed ok but you had to set the compound to 60.5 to make it work?
> The threads I cut on my old Craftsman I set the compound to the same 29.5
> What am I not seeing here.


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## pstemari

The angle graduations on lathe compound slides aren't done in a consistent direction. The usual instructions assume they read 0° for perpendicular to the lathe axis and 90° for parallel. However, just as often they are numbered in the opposite direction, reading 0° when parallel to the lathe axis and 90° for perpendicular.

You pretty much have to know which way your lathe is numbered and adjust as needed.

In his case, it looked like his threads weren't symmetric. That's what you get if you have the compound angled too close to the lathe axis. The  crests and left flanks of the threads will get cut away during the initial passes. The point of the tool has to stay on or above the left flank of the thread as it works its way down to the root of the thread.


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## Z2V

Two identical lathes numbered differently, I guess anything goes in China. That will be the first thingI look at when my 1030 arrives hopefully this week. 
Thanks for the explanation.


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## shooter123456

I feel like I keep pushing the lathe looking for a limit and I haven't found one yet.  

I did have an issue a little while ago where the spindle motor overheated and it damaged one of the brush holders.  PM had a new one to me 2 days later which installed without an issue.  I haven't had an issue with the new motor despite pushing it very hard. 

Here is what happened to the motor.




I thought I had a picture of the motor but I don't.  I believe it was a Nema 42 frame, 4000 RPM, and it is driven by a KBLC-240D speed control board.  Some of the castings were a little bit rough, but everything looks good where it counts.  Seems to be a theme with this machine.  

I have made a few leadscrew with the lathe recently. They were 10 TPI and with 12L14 steel. 



A couple pulleys.





I am working on a video of a few of the bigger cuts the machine has made.  

I also just finished a job to help out a friend that required 72 parts to be made from 304 stainless in a short amount of time.  The machine was pushed very hard, each of the 72 parts had a groove that needed to be cut, and the machine handled it beautifully.  The power crossfeed is an invaluable feature and I will never purchase another lathe without one.


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## shooter123456

Here is the video of some of those cuts.


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## BellyUpFish

Nice looking work.

I wish I could get in on some of that “2 day parts train.”

I finally crashed my lathe, all my fault and bent my carriage pinion gear.  It’s been a little over a week, we are still “waiting to hear from the factory.”

While the lathe was down, I wound up straightening the pinion, I looked into a few other small issues the lathe was having.

My tailstock wouldn’t eject anything anymore, and found the Dutchman screw had been drilled too little into the meat of the bronze bushing allowing the bushing to slide out.

The pinion gear I broke, I’d like to purchase, this piece, I’ve asked PM to replace.


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## shooter123456

I got a new 6" chuck for the lathe and I made a backplate for it.  I also got to use the faceplate for the first time since I got the machine.  

The chuck is from Ebay, and I got this one specifically because it has 2 piece jaws, so I can use soft jaws.  I got the one that mounts from the front, so I can use it on my mill if I want to.  I got it for $123 after shipping.  I am not sure why the seller changed the price to $558... I certainly didn't pay that much.  

Here is a link to the one I got: https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-3-JAW-SE...230010?hash=item48a19f7fba:g:yjMAAOSwhLJZpgGy

The backplate is made out of .75" aluminum plate.  I am probably losing a bit in rigidity, but if it ends up being a problem, I will buy either cast iron or steel and remake it.  It was actually pretty simple to make.  I cut off stock from a larger plate, stuck it up on the face plate, drilled it, bored it to roughly the spindle diameter, then put it in the 3 jaw to round out the edges.  Once it was round, I stuck it in the 4 jaw, bored out the center to 1.967" (which is 49.96 mm), then I faced the front square.  Next, I drilled and tapped the back for the mount and drive dogs.  I used the drive dogs I made for the ER32 chuck I was working on a while ago.  Then I mounted it on the lathe spindle, faced off the other end, and turned down the outside for the chuck reference edge.  Last, I drilled and tapped the holes for the lathe mounting screws.  I tested it cutting some 1.5" 12L14 and it works very well.  The jaws are a very good fit and held it very securely.  The jaws on this thing are so massive it feels like a fan blowing air at me.  All in all I am pleased with it so far. 

Here I am just making sure I will have enough stock for it.



Up on the face plate and drilled and bored. The face plate is an interesting tool to use.  I am not sure when I will need to use one again, but I will keep it in mind for the future. 



Then I put it up in the 3 jaw using the inside jaws.  It was a reach to machine the outside and it took quite some time.



Then I held it in the 4 jaw to do the final boring and facing.



Here it is after boring and facing.



Here it is mounted up.  I couldn't reach the backplate to turn it down to match the outside of the chuck.  I need to take the chuck off to do that at some point.



Here it is next to the 5" 3 jaw that came with the machine.  Its crazy how much bigger 1" is.  



I modeled it up so I could make some soft jaws. Hopefully I can get near zero runout if I make the soft jaws right.



Also as a side note.  It came with a very nice chuck key.  I like this one much better than the one that came with the machine.


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## NavyShooter

Shooter, my 1030 has been ordered and will hopefully be on a truck to me this coming week.

I'm looking forward to it!


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## ch2co

Navy
Don’t forget, you never received anything unless we see pictures!
I think you’re going to like this lathe.


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## ASD9000

Anyone have a good set of insert tools to suggest. I have been using my PM1030 for almost two years now and been getting by on my Anytime tools insert set. But I want to step up my insert tool game, now that I feel comfortable with not breaking a tool every time I use it . I saw that shooter was able to use negative rake tools which has me thinking of WNMG, as I begin venturing into steel more. I was also looking at VNMG styile tools. or anything that could let me get closer to the shoulders than a TCMT can.  I bought a kennametal tool holder on ebay 5/8" shank with a Shars xl shank but you cannot get it to go low enough to get the tool to go to the center line so want to give the warning to those looking at getting bigger shanked tools.


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## shooter123456

ASD9000 said:


> Anyone have a good set of insert tools to suggest. I have been using my PM1030 for almost two years now and been getting by on my Anytime tools insert set. But I want to step up my insert tool game, now that I feel comfortable with not breaking a tool every time I use it . I saw that shooter was able to use negative rake tools which has me thinking of WNMG, as I begin venturing into steel more. I was also looking at VNMG styile tools. or anything that could let me get closer to the shoulders than a TCMT can.  I bought a kennametal tool holder on ebay 5/8" shank with a Shars xl shank but you cannot get it to go low enough to get the tool to go to the center line so want to give the warning to those looking at getting bigger shanked tools.



Glad you aren't breaking tools all the time.  I did that a lot too in the beginning.  Its nice to feel confident enough to get some nicer tooling because it will last more than 15 minutes.  Here are the insert tools I use most on my lathe.






1. This is a CCMT 0602 turning tool holder.  I made this one because I could find the inserts online for rediculously cheap.  I can usually get them for $5-$8 for 10 inserts and I get 1 set specifically for steels and 1 set for aluminum.  I will be remaking this one with the right thread to use the correct insert screw which should make it even tougher.  The aluminum specific inserts can take tiny cuts (like .0005) and leave a fantastic finish.  

2. These are DCMT 0702 inserts.  Same deal as above, I got them because I can find the inserts cheap and I made the holders.  These are excellent for getting into tight spaces while profiling.  I have used them for roughing before just to see if they can handle it, but I have better tools for roughing.

3. This is the WNMG tool you were talking about.  It is the only negative rake tool I have tried.  I got them on ebay for $12 for a pack of 10 and they are fantastic.  I am still on the first insert and have only indexed to 3 of the 6 sides.  I use this one for roughing 12L14 mostly because it can take a .1" (.2" off diameter) cut and make a great chip.  I have trouble getting it to chip well in aluminum though and in some other steels, it doesn't like to make chips.  I probably don't have the horsepower to get it deep enough and run hard enough to make chips in those steels.  It is also in a home made holder.  I will be making another 2 holders, one in steel with a proper clamp and another that is much smaller for my micro lathe.  A cool thing about this insert is that it will make tight and tiny chips with 12L14 while cutting only .005" deep.  

4.  These are store bough CCMT 0602 boring bars.  I got these recently for my birthday for $25 on amazon.  They came with 10 inserts as well.  I should have gotten these 2 years ago when I got the lathe.  I have been using brazed carbide boring bars and they are honestly garbage.  They were $15 I think and for $10 more, these blow them away.  I was making some air cylinder chambers which needed a ton of aluminum to be removed and the big boring bar knocked it out of the park.  I was cutting .06" (.12" off the diameter) at 1000 RPM at the highest feed rate .01"/rev and it was just dropping the chips right out and they were perfect little Cs. At the widest point, the machine was removing 5 cuin/min!

5.  This is also a new one, its a MGEHR 1212-2 grooving/parting tool holder.  It can be used for parting, but only up to about 1" in diameter (or something with .5" walls).  I have only used it a handful of times so far but it has done a great job for me. It was $19 for the tool and 10 inserts. 

6.  These are the tools I have had the longest and used the most.  They are the common 3/8" triangle insert tools.  I have had these since I got the lathe in August 2015.  I have used them enough to burn out 15 inserts and they last a pretty long time.  I will admit though that I went through 6 inserts in a 4 day period doing a rush job with 304 stainless and I was pushing them way harder than I should have been.  I was running facing 1.25" stainless parts at 1250 RPM and .05" DOC.  It was about 400 SFM which a US made insert may have been able to handle, but the cheap inserts only lasted about 3 parts per edge.  I had to face 72 of them to shorten between .4 and .6" each.  I also love using these on other steels and aluminums because they make fanstastic chips.  I got new inserts for them that were $12 for 10 inserts and each one lasts a while (except when pushing them too hard in stainless because you have a very short window to make the parts and its worth burning up a bunch of inserts to save time). 

Those are the ones I use most.  I have yet to try any threading inserts, but I would like to sometime in the future.  I have also had my eye out for some CNMG 432 inserts.  I think the lathe can handle those, but I am not sure.  I have my eye out for large insert lots on ebay for a bunch of inserts I can make holders for.  

Here are the links for the tools and inserts I mentioned above.

1. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-CCGT...107604&hash=item41c7c1a49d:g:jXwAAOSwjKFZW2iZ

1. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Gold-C...771753?hash=item2cbf1ae4a9:g:IQ8AAOSw42JZD--y

2. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-DCMT...398798&hash=item4b1611eada:g:UFsAAOSwo4pYmJkS

3. These are similar, but I don't think they are exactly the same.  They are also a tad more expensive than the ones I got. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PCS-EUR...354457?hash=item212e477019:g:~7oAAOSwhvFZB7fT

4. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076J9KXF5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5. https://www.ebay.com/itm/MGEHR-1212...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

6. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10X-TCMT11...755676?hash=item25d3c5f45c:g:NcAAAOSw3utY6Hmu

I know most of the ones I use are cheap Chinese inserts, but I have had good luck with them and they have served me well.  I would buy name brand ones, but its tough to justify them for the work I do.  Typically, each name brand insert costs as much as 5 to 10 Chinese inserts, and it has taken me 2 years to go through 1 box of Chinese inserts.  

I hope that helps!


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## ASD9000

Wow thanks shooter! This super helpful. I have had really good luck with my import tools. I sacrificed a shars XL tool holder and got to use my fancy mixed geometry positive rake Kennametal tool holder. The inserts were more than the price of two good sets of import cutters and that's after getting them for 1/4 of the cost that Kennametal quoted me. And it really stinks compared to my import and I burned two tips on aluminum immediately. I'm gonna assume operator error. Sorry for the rant but I'm just happy someone has been having some good luck with relatively cheap tooling 

Since you mentioned threading inserts I have had some good luck with this one in steel and aluminum.

https://www.banggood.com/SER1010H11...p-1081769.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN

and internal boring bar this one, granted it s a little small so you have to do light cuts it has worked fine for all the aluminum work I have done.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SNR0008k11...h-T8-Wrench-/222867537468?hash=item33e3f0be3c


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## shooter123456

I tried something new with the lathe.  Soft jaws!  I got the 6" vise specifically because it had 2 piece jaws that would allow me to use soft jaws on it.  I made the jaws on my PM25 and used them to make tool holders for the mill.  The results worked pretty well.  Everything was under .001" concentricity about 2 inches from the jaw face and they hold very securely.  It is also a breeze being able to chuck them up and have the part centered immediately. I left a little extra material on the top half of the jaws thinking it might give me some more contact area for larger parts, but it probably won't make any difference.  They are also reversible so once I cut away one side too far, I can just flip them.  I made them with scrap aluminum so cost was minimal.  The soft jaws overhang the hardened jaw portion so I can stick something inside against the hard jaws to bore the soft jaws.  I used a socket and socket extension to get it in and out.

















This machine is pumping these out left and right with the jaws.  I would highly recommend trying some soft jaws if you haven't already. 






I also used the machine to make an air cylinder for the mill.  It required removing a ton of material to hollow out the inside of the cylinder. I was running the machine hard, removing 5 cuin/min at the highest point.  It was just dropping the chips right out in a little pile too.  I am coming up on the 3 year mark with this machine and it keeps on running for me.  
















It also did a wonderful job parting 3" pistons.





To make this contraption.  That works by the way!





I also made some pulleys.










I did some math, and tried to recall all the parts I have made with the machine so far and the number I came up with is 192, not include various small pins here and there. 

My only complaint about the machine at the moment is the gears.  The gear system has gotten a little worn and it is loud now.  I plan to come up with a new way to hold the gears in place so they are held tightly without rubbing against each other.  It is probably coming time soon to pull the machine apart to clean and adjust everything.


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## shooter123456

I used to lathe to help make parts for the mill again.  I get a smile on my face every time I use this machine.

I am making an automatic tool changer for the mill, and one of the things it needs is a round platter that will hold the fingers that hold the tools.  It is a little bit big to cut on the mill, so I did the first parts on the mill, and cut it to size with the lathe. It just cleared the ways when it spun, I think it was about 9.5" diagonally.  I stuck a boring bar in the tool post upside down and ran the machine in reverse to round it off.  Once I got it down to 6", I used another tool to face it.  Watching a tool face aluminum with a deep cut and making a ton of chips is one of the most satisfying operations to watch.  I got a few new tools to use, including a CCGT-0602 holder which has been awesome.  I have a homemade one, but the screw sticks out and catches chips which jams it up.  The factory one does not catch the chips which lets me take deep aggressive cuts while forming a nice chip.  

As you can see, not a lot of clearance.





Upside down boring bar.





Made a circle.





Faced it a few times.  That made a whole lotta chips.






I also got tired of switching tools out of the tool holders and resetting the heights all the time, so I ordered 5 more tool holders.  I hope that will be enough for now (Though I know it won't).  

I am thinking:
1. Aluminum turning and facing
2. Steel turning and facing
3. Insert boring bar
4. Insert threading tool
5. Insert grooving tool
6. Cut off tool
7. Negative rake roughing tool

That leaves me with the boring bar tool holder which at the moment doesn't fit my boring bars, the knurling tool holder (I don't knurl stuff often), and one spare for the other tools I rarely use. 

I am thinking about getting rid of the gears for turning, and only use them when I need to thread.  I want to add a stepper motor to the leadscrew and go with an electronic lead screw.  I think I can do it relatively cheap, and it will give me some more flexibility and smoother operation.  It would use an arduino to control it, a simple control box I would make on the mill, a Nema 23 motor should be enough, an extra driver I have from the mill, and a new power supply.  It would free up some power for the spindle motor if all it has to do is turn the spindle, rather than turn the spindle and drive the carriage, I would have a wider range of feeds instead of .005", .0025", and .00125" per rev.  I could step it up if I am trying to get a chip to break, or step it down if I want a finer finish.  I could also make a jog function to quickly move the carriage out of the way or give it a set distance to go and return to zero after.  And most importantly, it would be much quieter and I wouldn't need to deal with the gears unless I was threading.


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