# Group Project: Small sliding bar clamp



## Weldingrod1 (Mar 8, 2021)

This is a follow on thread to the one started by GunOfNavarone. Join this thread if you would like to join in on the construction of small sliding bar clamps. This is intended to be a project that goes fast, is pretty straigh forward, and acts as a pilot test for group projects in general.

I'm thinking of spreading the parts out among multiple people. Either one type of part per person or, if we get a lot of people, we could have multiple people on each part. I had an offer to case harden parts, so that's a possibility. If we don't harden I could do the "collect" step. So, the process would be:

Make drawings
Sign up folks
Set the number of copies we are making
Number of people X number of clamps wanted...
Farm out the parts to the folks
People make their part
Ship finished parts to case hardening or coloring volunteer
Ship parts to folks...

I don't want to stick the bulk harden/color volunteer with shipping costs, so we would need to come up with a clean way to spread that out. Collecting has the advantage in that there are only 2 ship steps per batch/recipient.

Parts:
Sliding tube (0.500")
Fixed jaw
Fixed jaw screw (could be bought)
Moving jaw
Knob
Stud (could be integral with knob)
Pad

The pad needs to be retained by staking the stud.

So, who's game?
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





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## Braeden P (Mar 8, 2021)

I’ve got a wood lathe so I can make wooden handles if needed and I can make round parts on my metal lathe


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## Peyton Price 17 (Mar 9, 2021)

will help with what I can. mostly lathe work.


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## ttabbal (Mar 9, 2021)

I'll play, lathe and mill available.


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## Weldingrod1 (Mar 10, 2021)

The tube stock is here!
I guess I'd better make some drawings ;-)


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## Peyton Price 17 (Mar 12, 2021)

should we make the knob knurled or out of wood? I don't have a knurling tool and I think wood works better


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## ttabbal (Mar 12, 2021)

Peyton Price 17 said:


> should we make the knob knurled or out of wood? I don't have a knurling tool and I think wood works better



I'm indifferent, but I do have a knurling tool and would likely make it with metal as a result.


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## T Bredehoft (Mar 12, 2021)

Does the floating bar have a dog point set screw riding in a groove in the vertical bar? In other words, what keeps it from twisting?


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## Weldingrod1 (Mar 12, 2021)

It's free to slide on the bar. A very small clearance leads to good self-locking behavior under load. Being able to use it at any radial position is actually handy!

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## Peyton Price 17 (Mar 15, 2021)

Weldingrod1 said:


> It's free to slide on the bar. A very small clearance leads to good self-locking behavior under load. Being able to use it at any radial position is actually handy!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


do you have drawings for it yet? I'm ready to make some parts for it. (not trying to rush you to make them) I'm able to make the jaws, pad, and stud. just not the nob or tube.


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## Doug Gray (Mar 15, 2021)

Looks like a really fun project!


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## Weldingrod1 (Mar 16, 2021)

Close! A question: do we want to make knobs or buy? I'm leaning toward make, assuming we get enough makers ;-)

Also, two clamps a person sound reasonable? Or just one?

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## Peyton Price 17 (Mar 16, 2021)

I think two sounds good.


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## Weldingrod1 (Mar 17, 2021)

I stayed up way too late drawing this up.  And, of course, left out the locking screw.  Fixed now...
I've tried to capture the actual tolerances needed on this; that's why you will see some surprisingly large ranges...

Key factor: I need to measure the tube stock I have!  The sliding clamp and fixed clamp need to fit very closely on that bar, and I was not able to get tighter than +-0.005" tube.  So, if I'm lucky its bang on and we start rolling.  Moderately lucky I get to turn them down to size, and un-lucky we need to adjust the nominals for the two mating holes.

In any case, can y'all download and look over the drawings?  Let me know what I messed up on, and lets start picking parts!  

Oh, on the knob, the only parts that are important are the blind 1/4"-20 hole and being 1" ish diameter.  As long as we can grab it and turn it reliably, it can be almost anything.  Wood would even work if the hole is either super-glue stabilized before tapping or has a threaded insert.


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## Peyton Price 17 (Mar 17, 2021)

Weldingrod1 said:


> I stayed up way too late drawing this up.  And, of course, left out the locking screw.  Fixed now...
> I've tried to capture the actual tolerances needed on this; that's why you will see some surprisingly large ranges...
> 
> Key factor: I need to measure the tube stock I have!  The sliding clamp and fixed clamp need to fit very closely on that bar, and I was not able to get tighter than +-0.005" tube.  So, if I'm lucky its bang on and we start rolling.  Moderately lucky I get to turn them down to size, and un-lucky we need to adjust the nominals for the two mating holes.
> ...


i can make the stud and pad on my lathe. Only have 12L14 in the right size though, but can case harden the parts.


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## Weldingrod1 (Mar 17, 2021)

Here's the list of folks!
Tube      WeldingRod
Braeden P
Stud       Peyton Price 17
Pad        Peyton Price 17
TTabbal
T Bredehoft
Joe065

Parts still un-claimed:
Knob
Sliding jaw
Fixed jaw

So far it looks like we are making 2 clamps per person, for a total of 12 clamps.

If someone has a good way to case harden the tube and jaws that would be a big improvement!  I don't think this is a job for a torch and Casenit, though.  Sounds more like a pack case hardening job...


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## Peyton Price 17 (Mar 17, 2021)

Weldingrod1 said:


> Here's the list of folks!
> Tube      WeldingRod
> Braeden P
> Stud       Peyton Price 17
> ...


I can use a map gas torch for the stud and pad but any bigger I would need to bring out the forge.


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## Weldingrod1 (Mar 17, 2021)

Peyton Price 17 said:


> I can use a map gas torch for the stud and pad but any bigger I would need to bring out the forge.


I definitely wouldn't harden the stud; the end needs to be swaged on assembly.  The pad really doesn't need it either.


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## Peyton Price 17 (Mar 17, 2021)

Weldingrod1 said:


> I definitely wouldn't harden the stud; the end needs to be swaged on assembly.  The pad really doesn't need it either.


Should I make a prototype to test it first? That way I can find a good way to peen over the stud.


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## ttabbal (Mar 17, 2021)

I'll do the moving jaw unless someone else really has a thing for it.  I'll need a final dimension for the tube so I can adjust the hole to fit.


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## Weldingrod1 (Mar 17, 2021)

I agree that a test part for staking would be smart!  I will take photos of my two clamps; they are staked differently.


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## Braeden P (Mar 17, 2021)

The taper on the top is hard to machine in a second op would everyone be fine without the taper on the top but with a radius on the corner?


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## Weldingrod1 (Mar 17, 2021)

Ok with me!

The tubes are dead on 0.5000"

Here's the two types of staking I have.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





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## Peyton Price 17 (Mar 22, 2021)

working on the parts, bought the stock and have 6 cut, and starting to machine them to size. hope to have them shipped out this week because I will be gone next week.


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## ttabbal (Mar 22, 2021)

Oh, I didn't realize we were a go. I'll get some stock and get moving.  I'm planning on 12 parts. I'm fine making more if needed.


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## Weldingrod1 (Mar 22, 2021)

Any thoughts on how to spread the parts? Maybe a variation on the pass-along box? That way everyone only ships twice (since the box has to make two laps)?

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## Peyton Price 17 (Mar 25, 2021)

Weldingrod1 said:


> Any thoughts on how to spread the parts? Maybe a variation on the pass-along box? That way everyone only ships twice (since the box has to make two laps)?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


i think we ship the parts to you and you assemble them and we pay the shipping to the next person in line for the box, then they grab their 2 clamps and ship it out. I am almost ready to ship out my parts might have to ship them after next week because I can't drive yet and we don't have much time to go to the post office.


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## Weldingrod1 (Mar 26, 2021)

That sounds like a good plan!

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## ttabbal (Apr 1, 2021)

I'm getting 0.506 right now on test holes for the moving jaw. The print calls out 0.506+0.003-0. Unless someone has a concern, I'll use that setting on the boring head moving forward. With checks along the way, of course.


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## Weldingrod1 (Apr 1, 2021)

That's a winner! The bar is 0.500, and the originals were 0.506" bore.

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## ttabbal (Apr 4, 2021)

Parts are ready. @Weldingrod1, if you would PM me a shipping address, I'll get them out to you in the next couple of days. Happy Easter everyone!


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## Weldingrod1 (Apr 6, 2021)

PM sent!

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## Weldingrod1 (Apr 12, 2021)

Nice work @ttabbal ! Smooth sliding fit! I'll have to get the bars cut ;-)

How are the other parts coming?
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





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## ttabbal (Apr 12, 2021)

Glad to hear they got there and fit nicely! I'm looking forward to seeing all of the parts trickle in.


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## Peyton Price 17 (Apr 13, 2021)

Weldingrod1 said:


> Nice work @ttabbal ! Smooth sliding fit! I'll have to get the bars cut ;-)
> 
> How are the other parts coming?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


need to debur the threads due to a bad collet and cheap all thread. need to remove an er11 collet chuck from a motor that is a press fit with heat. might use a chuck to hold it but could you stake the parts? since you did it I don't want to mess up parts due to a lack of knowledge, and this is the first job I took.


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## Weldingrod1 (Apr 16, 2021)

Sure, I can figure out the staking!

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## Weldingrod1 (Apr 16, 2021)

Sure, I can figure out the staking!

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## ttabbal (May 19, 2021)

No updates for a while. Hope everyone is well and remembers.


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## Weldingrod1 (May 24, 2021)

Yeah, I was hoping to hear about some more parts to go with the moving jaw! Of course, I need to break down and make the bars ;-)

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## Weldingrod1 (May 30, 2021)

@payton and progress on knobs and screws? Or are you snowed under finals?

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## Braeden P (May 30, 2021)

Weldingrod1 said:


> @payton and progress on knobs and screws? Or are you snowed under finals?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


 we are going to remake the screws because of bad finish and the pads are ready to be made but we have a paying job so it will be a bit before we can work on those parts


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## Weldingrod1 (May 30, 2021)

So, who's got the fixed jaws?

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## Weldingrod1 (Jun 3, 2021)

Just trying to firm up who's making what...

Definite:
TTabbal                Moving jaw         Done!
WeldingRod1       Tubes                 Stock on hand
Peyton Price 17   Stud and pad      Re-doing

Un-claimed parts:
Knob   (could be bought easily)
Fixed jaw

Volunteers without a part:
@Braeden P
@T Bredehoft
@Joe065

Can I get some folks to commit to the last two parts?


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## Braeden P (Jun 3, 2021)

Me and Peyton work on the same parts.


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## Weldingrod1 (Jun 3, 2021)

@Braeden P you two have the stud and the pad, right?
I got all the bars cut and cleaned up! I posed this with two moving jaws...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





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## T Bredehoft (Jun 4, 2021)

Weldingrod1 said:


> Volunteers without a part:
> @Braeden P
> @T Bredehoft
> @Joe065


Hmmm. Wasn't aware I had volunteered, please don't assume I'm working on a part...


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## ttabbal (Jun 5, 2021)

I'd have to get another stick of metal, but I can do the other jaw if we get hung up.


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## Weldingrod1 (Jun 24, 2021)

@T Bredehoft, sorry, I miss-interpreted!

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## Weldingrod1 (Jul 21, 2021)

@Braeden P any progress on your and your brother's parts?

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## Braeden P (Jul 21, 2021)

Nope the lathe is broken, the worm wheel in the gear box broke so hopefully soon it will be fixed.


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## Weldingrod1 (Jul 30, 2021)

Yuck ! Fixed that on the lathr at work... I was really happy to be able to buy the parts!

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## Mheaton92 (Jul 30, 2021)

I can do the fixed jaw, just need detail on how all of this will work.
EDIT: I wont be able to case harden them though.


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## ttabbal (Jul 31, 2021)

The moving jaw was not hardened. I don't think they need to be for the basic sort of thing one would use this sort of thing for.


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## Weldingrod1 (Aug 2, 2021)

@Mheaton92 , the plans are on post #14.

I would use cold rolled stock for the fixed jaw, but nothing on this really needs hardening.

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## Weldingrod1 (Aug 2, 2021)

I think we are making 12 clamps in total, but I'm not hone where I could count what I have on hand. I'm collecting parts. Once I have all of them I'll stake the pads, pack, and price shipping to everyone.

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## Mheaton92 (Aug 3, 2021)

Weldingrod1 said:


> I think we are making 12 clamps in total, but I'm not hone where I could count what I have on hand. I'm collecting parts. Once I have all of them I'll stake the pads, pack, and price shipping to everyone.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk



So I would have to make 12 pieces, pay to ship them to you, then pay to have them shipped back? I’m ok with that as long as it’s not to much. 

How many people are making parts? Is it more then one clamp per person?


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## Weldingrod1 (Aug 15, 2021)

Its 12 total, 2 per person. Yeah, for a tiny project the shipping is a drawback :-(

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## Mheaton92 (Aug 15, 2021)

Weldingrod1 said:


> Its 12 total, 2 per person. Yeah, for a tiny project the shipping is a drawback :-(
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


Ok, my home shop has a job right now, and I leave for vacation on the 18th. The day I get back, I will start them and send them out. I am guessing I will have them out by the 27th.


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## Weldingrod1 (Aug 15, 2021)

@Braden13 @Peyton Price 17 , should I make the studs? Are you guys still planning to make knobs and pads?

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## Braeden P (Aug 16, 2021)

My lathe has a broken gear so who knows how long until it’s fixed some the whole gearbox needs a rebuild we are still planing on making the studs and pads.


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## Weldingrod1 (Aug 16, 2021)

Picture of the gear? Folks here might be able to help ;-)

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## Braeden P (Aug 16, 2021)

It’s a bronze worm gear that is really worn with a tooth missing and the shafts are really worn but the gearbox is 110 years old.


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## Weldingrod1 (Aug 19, 2021)

You might want to measure it and see if a modern worm/wheel combo could go in. I could be more help with pictures... non-enveloping or single enveloping worm wheels arent impossible to make; see the dividing head thread!

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## Braeden P (Aug 19, 2021)

It’s a Boston gear that has multiple complicated parts like key ways, set screws and lock wires a new one is $300+ I payed $200 for the lathe.  I am getting a new one made by my neighbors friend has a gear shop so we will learn how to use gear hobbers and other machines.


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## Mheaton92 (Aug 26, 2021)

Would the top clamp be ok with a laser cut edge? I can clean it up so there isnt a burr or I could leave a few thousands to mill off.


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## Weldingrod1 (Aug 27, 2021)

Sure! Just needs to be safe to handle on the edges. Not ultra flat...

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## Mheaton92 (Aug 29, 2021)

Sorry my parts are taking so long. I got all the parts cut and have a few more operations to do.


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## ttabbal (Aug 29, 2021)

Mheaton92 said:


> Sorry my parts are taking so long. I got all the parts cut and have a few more operations to do.



I don't think anyone is in a big hurry. It's a hobby after all.


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## Weldingrod1 (Aug 29, 2021)

True! And the young guns are held up.by a blown worm gear...

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## Weldingrod1 (Oct 8, 2021)

Any progress gents?

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## Braeden P (Oct 8, 2021)

Getting a new gear made Monday so it will be a step closer to working.


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## Weldingrod1 (Oct 8, 2021)

Oooh! Progress! Do you get to see the gear cutting?

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## Braeden P (Oct 10, 2021)

Yes we will! The place has gear hobbers and gear shapers and some other machines.


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## Weldingrod1 (Feb 7, 2022)

Just bumping the thread... I'd love to get these clamps finished and out working!

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## Braeden P (Feb 7, 2022)

If anyone wants to take my spot in making the screws and clamps you can.


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