# Logan Model 1875 Info



## HiCap239

Hello Everyone,

I am a new member, and I have to say WOW. I posted on the Southbend threat yesterday a lathe I was interested in and was given enough info that I am not going to make the purchase. The users there saved my behind. So here I am, looking at another Logan. I cannot seem to find much info at all online about the model 1875 Logan Lathe. I am currently working a trade deal on. I will be going up to look at it tomorrow, it is owned by an older gentleman that is a machinist. He has owned this for several years, I will be taking my tools to give it a good overall accuracy check which he is fine with. The machine looks very clean and well maintained also. So my question is this, and I know this will vary based on the amount of tooling. What might the base price be on one of these with what is seen in the pictures? Just looking for a ballpark as he has stated there is a lot of tooling some of which I am getting the impression is not pictured. Any info on the history of these machines along with what these are going for would be appreciated. I am in south west Florida and these do come up somewhat regularly. I have seen some pretty high and low pricing on these at times, it is all about who owns it and the value "they" place on the machine. Just looking to get a fair assessment that's all. Thanks for looking and any info that can be provided.


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## Bob Korves

What is shown is definitely not "a lot of tooling."  It doesn't really matter what the model number of the lathe is, the photos pretty much tell you about what it is.  It looks like it might be well worth a look.

There are plenty of hits shown in a quick search:  https://www.bing.com/search?q=logan+1875+lathe&pc=MOZI&form=MOZSBR


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## Mister Ed

I agree with Bob, certainly worth looking at. From what can be seen (an old 3-jaw and a drill chuck), I would consider it with no tooling. It is impossible to make out what is on that bench though. Cannot tell what (if anything) is in the cabinet side of the base.

*If* the tooling is just a bunch of lantern tool holders, it would add nothing for me. *If *the tooling includes a steady & follow rest, and a taper attachment ... well then that would be a different story. I guess it all depends on what tooling is there, not just if its a bunch or a little.


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## Chuck K

That lathe is identical to one that I have. Mine isn't as clean as the one pictured.  The 10" Logans are great lathes.  The downside is the small spindle bore.  I have no idea what the prices are in Florida.   In IL that lathe could cost anywhere from 500 to 1500 depending on condition and accessories.  Check the gears for missing teeth. The ways will almost certainly have wear but excessive wear isn't good. Remove the plug on the front of the apron and see if the oil level is correct. It's pretty rare to find one with any lubricant in it at all.  It might give you some idea of the care it's had.


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## Silverbullet

Logan's are pretty good LATHES. Mine I've had for over forty years . Still will be working when I'm gone. Like the rest said Ck the gears , Ck the backlash run it thru all speeds and feeds all directions. Listen for any loud squealing or grinding. Feel the bearing on head stock after running if hot or the spindle is loose, it will need bearings.  Tooling is up to you if it don't have the steady rest or follow rest they're pricy. Taper attachment more expensive than the lathe. How many chucks and kinds size also , collets , tool post , rocker or qctp, 4 way turret . The list is never-ending on tooling.


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## MBfrontier

I like Logan Lathes as well. The picture of the lathe you included in your post looks like a nice one. You didn't mention if you were looking for a lathe restoration project or a lathe that would be ready to make chips as soon as you get it home.

When you take a look at it take a mirror with so you can hold it under the quick change gear box to check for missing teeth. Also, With the carriage close to the chuck, I like to lightly snug the carriage lock to the bed to get an idea of bed wear from  the chuck to the end of the bed. Most times the carriage will become more difficult to move the further away from the chuck it moves indicating the bed is worn where the saddle most traveled. The condition of the bed is the main thing for me. Severe wear near the chuck or a twisted bed is a show stopper. Most of the rest of issues like bearings, shafts, backlash, etc. can be addressed and fixed. It's mostly a matter of purchase price plus replacement parts will determine the total investment. 

As others have stated, the price can vary widely based on the tooling that comes with it. Good luck with your hunt for a used lathe.


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## HiCap239

MBfrontier said:


> I like Logan Lathes as well. The picture of the lathe you included in your post looks like a nice one. You didn't mention if you were looking for a lathe restoration project or a lathe that would be ready to make chips as soon as you get it home.
> 
> When you take a look at it take a mirror with so you can hold it under the quick change gear box to check for missing teeth. Also, With the carriage close to the chuck, I like to lightly snug the carriage lock to the bed to get an idea of bed wear from  the chuck to the end of the bed. Most times the carriage will become more difficult to move the further away from the chuck it moves indicating the bed is worn where the saddle most traveled. The condition of the bed is the main thing for me. Severe wear near the chuck or a twisted bed is a show stopper. Most of the rest of issues like bearings, shafts, backlash, etc. can be addressed and fixed. It's mostly a matter of purchase price plus replacement parts will determine the total investment.
> 
> As others have stated, the price can vary widely based on the tooling that comes with it. Good luck with your hunt for a used lathe.





Silverbullet said:


> Logan's are pretty good LATHES. Mine I've had for over forty years . Still will be working when I'm gone. Like the rest said Ck the gears , Ck the backlash run it thru all speeds and feeds all directions. Listen for any loud squealing or grinding. Feel the bearing on head stock after running if hot or the spindle is loose, it will need bearings.  Tooling is up to you if it don't have the steady rest or follow rest they're pricy. Taper attachment more expensive than the lathe. How many chucks and kinds size also , collets , tool post , rocker or qctp, 4 way turret . The list is never-ending on tooling.



The paint is original from what the owner said. I really do not care if I buy a lathe that needs restored or a fully functional one like this one. But I am super anal when I do tear something down....I guess that comes from building engines years ago. So if I do end up doing a restoration It will be 110%. I will probably be on this board a lot if that happens down the road. I have an unfounded affinity for South Bend 9" lathes also. Strange because I have never seen one up close or even ran one. But anyways...I think the tooling will make or break the deal. I will be heading up there within the next 45 minutes to look at it and make my decision. I have probably around $1900 ish of stuff in trade value that he will accept. I have looked around online and found a few auction sites that have these for sale and some sold/ unsold auctions that have ended. Prices vary greatly from location to location is what I am seeing. I have seen auctions that have sold this same lathe for as little as $470, lathe looked in pretty good shape with an extra chuck and some tooling, no steady rest though and for as much as $1950.00 with an extra chuck and really no tooling to speak of which is on a for sale site. I have also seen a very recently auction on Ebay than had one for $1000 that did not sell and was relisted for $800 and did not sell it was a local pick up auction up north. Thanks for the info on the tooling, more specifically the stuff that is pricy. I know for fact he does not have a QCTP. We discussed that. He does have some very expensive measuring instruments. So we will se where it goes.


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## HiCap239

MBfrontier said:


> I like Logan Lathes as well. The picture of the lathe you included in your post looks like a nice one. You didn't mention if you were looking for a lathe restoration project or a lathe that would be ready to make chips as soon as you get it home.
> 
> When you take a look at it take a mirror with so you can hold it under the quick change gear box to check for missing teeth. Also, With the carriage close to the chuck, I like to lightly snug the carriage lock to the bed to get an idea of bed wear from  the chuck to the end of the bed. Most times the carriage will become more difficult to move the further away from the chuck it moves indicating the bed is worn where the saddle most traveled. The condition of the bed is the main thing for me. Severe wear near the chuck or a twisted bed is a show stopper. Most of the rest of issues like bearings, shafts, backlash, etc. can be addressed and fixed. It's mostly a matter of purchase price plus replacement parts will determine the total investment.
> 
> As others have stated, the price can vary widely based on the tooling that comes with it. Good luck with your hunt for a used lathe.



Thanks for reminding me to bring my mirror! Also great info I did not realize about the twisted bed. Looks like I will be checking that out also. I don't care if I buy one that I have to rebuild or a fully functional lathe. I just want something better than my POS ENCO 9 x 20. I have gotten some great information from you folks once again and it seems every time I log on here I get a little more educated. Knowledge is the key here and I really appreciate everyone sharing their knowledge on these lathes and what to look for with me. I wash I would have done this before I bought that ENCO for sure. I have learned from working on that one so at least something good came of it. Anyways, I need to jump off her and get ready to head out meet with the owner of that 1875. Thanks again every one!


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## Bob Korves

HiCap239 said:


> Thanks for reminding me to bring my mirror! Also great info I did not realize about the twisted bed. Looks like I will be checking that out also. I don't care if I buy one that I have to rebuild or a fully functional lathe. I just want something better than my POS ENCO 9 x 20. I have gotten some great information from you folks once again and it seems every time I log on here I get a little more educated. Knowledge is the key here and I really appreciate everyone sharing their knowledge on these lathes and what to look for with me. I wash I would have done this before I bought that ENCO for sure. I have learned from working on that one so at least something good came of it. Anyways, I need to jump off her and get ready to head out meet with the owner of that 1875. Thanks again every one!


HiCap239, MBfrontier was not talking about a twisted bed, he was describing how to check for a worn bed.  With bed wear, which is usually mostly near the chuck, the ways become worn downwards, making the distance from the top of the ways to the carriage clamping surface below the ways less.  If you tighten the carriage while it is near the chuck and then loosen it just enough that it moves with slight resistance, and then move the carriage to the right where there is typically less wear, you can see if the carriage gets harder to move as it goes to the right, indicating wear near the chuck.  It is a quick and dirty test, and does not quantify the extent of the wear very well, but at least it gives you an idea of what is going on.  Looking at the ways visually will not really show much beyond extreme wear and physical damage, (dings, etc.)


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## Nogoingback

The good news on Logans is that Logan still sells parts for them, so between eBay and Logan, you can fix just about anything.  Of course, that can add a lot to the purchase price as I'm finding out with
mine.  Pretty much all old lathes like this need something, but when you look at it, make a list of everything you think it needs and add up the cost.  Up front cost is only the beginning, and spending
a bit more for  a machine in good shape with tooling will save money in the long run.  Take a good look at the condition of the chucks: they're expensive to replace and it's easy to overlook them 
while looking at the machine.


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## HiCap239

Bob Korves said:


> HiCap239, MBfrontier was not talking about a twisted bed, he was describing how to check for a worn bed.  With bed wear, which is usually mostly near the chuck, the ways become worn downwards, making the distance from the top of the ways to the carriage clamping surface below the ways less.  If you tighten the carriage while it is near the chuck and then loosen it just enough that it moves with slight resistance, and then move the carriage to the right where there is typically less wear, you can see if the carriage gets harder to move as it goes to the right, indicating wear near the chuck.  It is a quick and dirty test, and does not quantify the extent of the wear very well, but at least it gives you an idea of what is going on.  Looking at the ways visually will not really show much beyond extreme wear and physical damage, (dings, etc.)



Thanks for the info, I was wondering about that. I did just what was stated above. I just did not know what It was called. I also stuck a straight bar against the front part of the prism way by the chuck out 10 inches and put a flashlight angled down angled down and against the bar and inner flat way. You can see light which gives a somewhat more accurate means of measure. When I did the twisted bed test it did indeed get harder to turn as the carriage approached the tail stock area. However it did not get so tight that I could not turn it. I snugged it up until it was not to easy to crank in front of the chuck. I ran it back and forth several times, next I ran it up within 3 inches of the chuck and grabbed the back of the carriage and grabbed the bottom of the Apron and tried to life it. There had to be some play, but I really could not detect it. I did this in various other places then went back to the front section and still could not tell any discernible difference. Unfortunately there is no steady rest, or a 4 jaw chuck for that matter not much in the way of tooling. His money is in measuring equipment. Lots of Starrett stuff, along with Brown & Sharp. Gears checked out A ok all the way around. He had the thing dripping with oil when I got there. He had it for 9 years and bought it from an old timer he knew that was familiar with lathes. I also checked the change gear box gear sets running and not. All were good to go. One issue I need information on is the machine would drop out of gear when running sometimes. The (Excuse my ignorance on the proper name of this) lever on the left of the gearhead assembly that engages the gears with the black knob (see pictures) up above the quick gear change box seems to have a lot of slop in it. I felt underneath it and it feels like there is a keyway slot of sorts. I have no idea how "tight" this should be but it seems to have what I would consider a lot of side to side play in it. I can see it rides on top of something possibly a shaft with a gear on it inside of the upper gear assembly. When it drops out of gear the seller shut down the unit then pulled while wiggling the bar/knob assembly back out and it would lift the gear back up into place. He said it must need adjusting and he did not know anything about it so he did not want to mess with it. Any info would greatly be appreciated. He was honest and let me take my time and all the pictures I wanted of it and run it as long as I wanted. Here re some pictures with my good camera. I told him there was no way I was going to trade him what I had for that even with the tooling. I did offer up a lesser trade that I felt would be fair for both of us and that he could keep the measuring instruments. He said he was good with that, but he wanted to wait since he had spoken with a gentleman from the other coast and promised he could come and look at the lathe this Wednesday. He said he had a better trade, so the deal was left for him to consider until the other guy looks at it. Looks like I will not know anything until Wednesday or later on whether or not I will get the lathe. Let me know if anyone sees anything in the pictures that I have not have described and may have missed. I also pushed and pulled the chuck and there was no movement back and forth so it was good also. Thanks guys and enjoy the pictures.


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## Chuck K

It sounds like the little catch on the bottom of the back gear rod is broken. That would be the knob above the qc box.  I was going to comment about it in the original pic.  I noticed it was pulled out, which should mean that the back gears are engaged. Sometimes they get adjusted incorrectly and they work backwards. To engage back gears you unlock the spindle from the bull gear and then pull the knob out until the spring loaded lever on the bottom of the rod clears the front of the headstock casting and locks it in the extended position. To unlock it you lift up on the little lever and push the knob back against the headstock casting. The you push the pin back into the bull gear and your back in your high speeds


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## HiCap239

Chuck K said:


> It sounds like the little catch on the bottom of the back gear rod is broken. That would be the knob above the qc box.  I was going to comment about it in the original pic.  I noticed it was pulled out, which should mean that the back gears are engaged. Sometimes they get adjusted incorrectly and they work backwards. To engage back gears you unlock the spindle from the bull gear and then pull the knob out until the spring loaded lever on the bottom of the rod clears the front of the headstock casting and locks it in the extended position. To unlock it you lift up on the little lever and push the knob back against the headstock casting. The you push the pin back into the bull gear and your back in your high speeds



We did check the back gearing he marked the spindle where the pin goes through from the bull ear to make the process easier. Where is the little catch located at on the back gear rod? on the outside or the inside? Also is it an easy fix in which something can be fabricated or do I have to purchase one? Also is there supposed to be a lot of side to side slop in the back gear rod? I need to find a parts schematic so I can see exactly what is going on to really know since I have never seen one before. Thanks for the info, I have a direction to go now.


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## Chuck K

If the only issue is the back gear rod, you're in good shape. It's real common to find the catch broken or missing on those machines. The side to side slop I'm not familiar with.  I couldn't imagine the case being worn....or the rod for that matter. You can make a new catch for it with a saw and a grinder.  It's a lot easier if you have one for a pattern.   I can take a picture of mine tomorrow just to give you a better idea what we're talking about. There's a tiny spring under the catch lever that might still be stuck in there.  If not you can find one at a hardware store.  Do you remember if it was in back gear when the knob was pulled out?


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## Nogoingback

The latch on the back gear rod is underneath the rod in a slot:  it's a small, spring loaded metal part that pivots on a pin.  If it's broken or missing, Logan can supply the parts.
I bought them for mine, and while I don't remember what I payed, they aren't expensive.
That's easy to fix.


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## Chuck K

Here's a pic.  The first one is on my 1875.  The second one is a spare that has the latch missing.


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## MBfrontier

As others have stated, the shaft with the black knob is the back gear shifter. To shift the lathe into "low range" the pin on the bull gear is pulled out and the back gear shifter rod is pulled out. This is mainly used in single point threading. It doesn't matter that the shifter seems a little loose as long as it keeps the back gear engaged.

The key on the bottom of the back gear rod is spring loaded to pop out and lock the shifter in place against the face of the head stock when the rod is pulled out in the fully engaged position. My Logan 1957 lathe had a worn key causing the shifter rod to slip back into the hole and disengage. In addition, there was a small ramp worn in the bottom of the shifter hole in the headstock casting compounding the likelihood of disengagement. Luckily, I discovered this condition while refurbishing the headstock. The solution was to cut a small piece of steel plate using the worn key as a template but eliminate the worn ramp on the end of the key. In my case, that was sufficient to  eliminate the issue. In any case, it shouldn't be a major issue and the fix should only cost a little of your fabrication time.

Since you will have to remove the shifter rod from the lathe to work on the key you should take a look at this document on the Logan Lathe Website which will instruct you how to properly install the shifter after your work is complete. Here is the link:
http://lathe.com/ll-group-archive/logan_lathe_back_gears.html

After looking closer at your pictures I realized the lathe looks like my Logan 1957 which I like a lot. I took a look at my manual and saw that the manual for the 1957 model includes the model 1875. So, welcome to the family I think? Did you buy it?


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## HiCap239

MBfrontier said:


> As others have stated, the shaft with the black knob is the back gear shifter. To shift the lathe into "low range" the pin on the bull gear is pulled out and the back gear shifter rod is pulled out. This is mainly used in single point threading. It doesn't matter that the shifter seems a little loose as long as it keeps the back gear engaged.
> 
> The key on the bottom of the back gear rod is spring loaded to pop out and lock the shifter in place against the face of the head stock when the rod is pulled out in the fully engaged position. My Logan 1957 lathe had a worn key causing the shifter rod to slip back into the hole and disengage. In addition, there was a small ramp worn in the bottom of the shifter hole in the headstock casting compounding the likelihood of disengagement. Luckily, I discovered this condition while refurbishing the headstock. The solution was to cut a small piece of steel plate using the worn key as a template but eliminate the worn ramp on the end of the key. In my case, that was sufficient to  eliminate the issue. In any case, it shouldn't be a major issue and the fix should only cost a little of your fabrication time.
> 
> Since you will have to remove the shifter rod from the lathe to work on the key you should take a look at this document on the Logan Lathe Website which will instruct you how to properly install the shifter after your work is complete. Here is the link:
> http://lathe.com/ll-group-archive/logan_lathe_back_gears.html
> 
> After looking closer at your pictures I realized the lathe looks like my Logan 1957 which I like a lot. I took a look at my manual and saw that the manual for the 1957 model includes the model 1875. So, welcome to the family I think? Did you buy it?



Thanks a million for the info on the rod, guys. When I felt underneath of it I did not feel the spring loaded pop out or anything but the channel for that matter. Also thanks for the pictures and link to the schematics of that rod assembly. So the deal on the lathe is pending right now. He has another guy that wants it and may have a better trade.  That gentleman is supposed to come over from the other coast on Wednesday. From what the seller of the lathe said the guy wants to trade two very expensive items for the lathe, I am skeptical that the guy will trade or even show up for that matter. So at this point in time I am just waiting. There was one other small thing or maybe not. When I turned the tool post cross slide wheel I noticed it had a small wobble. Like it may have gotten bent, not sure maybe it is an adjustment. It was smooth, but if you pulled on the cross slide it would move a small amount back, I am thinking it can just be adjusted out. If I have to rebuild it I will as that is not too much of a problem. I really do not to think to much about it or make plans. Usually when I start doing that the deal falls through. Just my luck sometimes. So I will have my fingers crossed in hopes to get this machine. I see a rebuild down the road if I do.


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## HiCap239

I have an update on the Logan 1875 Lathe trade deal. It looks like the other gentleman that was going to meet with the Logan lathe owner was a no show today so the lathe deal with me is going to go through. I will be picking up the Logan 1875 this Saturday or Sunday.


Chuck K said:


> Here's a pic.  The first one is on my 1875.  The second one is a spare that has the latch missing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 227896
> View attachment 227897



Thanks for the pictures. Logan 1875 update, looks like I will be doing the trade deal this weekend probably Sunday. I am looking forward to getting this thing up and running. I will looking for some sort of dimensions for that missing shifter rack pin as it appears that the one on this lathe is missing. It should be easy to fab one up, it is just getting the size information to make it up with. Does anyone know where I can get some dimensions for one of these? I will post pictures later next week when I get it settled in. Thanks again guys!


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## Mister Ed

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


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## Chuck K

Yep....I noticed that too.  I have always wondered what value those were.  Seems to me the damage would already be done by the time it slipped. I think my machine has one also...can't remember if it's on this one or one of the previous machines. I'll have to look at it tomorrow.


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## HiCap239

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


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## MBfrontier

This thread has a drawing of the key posted by Artemetra on the first post. Should be of some help. You will also need a small spring.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/logan-820-latch-key-repair-and-question.23897/


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## HiCap239

Thanks for the link, Looks like I know what the first project for the lathe is going to be, along with a cleaning. Hopefully there will be no surprises with anything later on. But if there is I know that you guys are a wealth of knowledge. Thanks again for the info!


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## wa5cab

Chuck K said:


> Yep....I noticed that too.  I have always wondered what value those were.  Seems to me the damage would already be done by the time it slipped. I think my machine has one also...can't remember if it's on this one or one of the previous machines. I'll have to look at it tomorrow.



The purpose of a slip clutch on the lead screw is to protect the drive train if for example you run the carriage into something that does not immediately stall the spindle.  The drive train can continue to run while not turning the lead screw, until the operator manages to stop the motor.  It would also protect the drive train if for example you engaged the carriage drive with the carriage lock locked.  Obviously, if you run the carriage or something on it directly into something connected to the spindle (like a chuck jaw), that may stall the spindle, and/or damage something else.  The late QCGB equipped Atlas/Clausing 12" machines also have a slip clutch for this purpose.  It is on the output from the GB to the lead screw.


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## Chuck K

I read through the description of the clutch.  Apparently it's a lot more useful than I suspected. I was picturing someone running the compound into the chuck. (Which if the lathes I've had are any indication, happens quite often).  I would still be skeptical about it protecting the qc box.  I checked my lathe and found that it is in fact outfitted with one.  I should have thought to look at the compound also.  I've never owned one that didn't have damage on it.  My memory isn't that good but I think I had to replace a tumbler gear on this machine when I got it.  I could be confusing it with a different machine. In any event I've never had the opportunity to put the slip clutch to the test.


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## Mister Ed

OK, where are the pics of this machine??

Oops ... not picking up until tomorrow.


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## HiCap239

Mister Ed said:


> OK, where are the pics of this machine??
> 
> Oops ... not picking up until tomorrow.


OK, I got everything taken care of today, those things are heavier than I thought. Ended up renting a 3' x 5' Home Depot trailer for $15.64 for 4 hours. I have is temporarily on furniture dolly's until I decide on its final placement. I have right around $900 in it. Did I do ok at $900? I thought it was worth it because of the Starrett and Brown & Sharp measureing instruments. This includes the Starrett depth gauges, and the boxed Starrett set along with a Brown & Sharp dial indicator. The knurling tool is pretty neat also. I have never seen one that had 4 different patterns in one package. But then again I am fairly new to this. There were a lot of small assorted lathe bits, some new that I did not include in the photo, because well they are boring, Lol. I did give it a good wipe down and ended up rechecking the ways with a set of new parallel bars I just got. The Ways are actually in a lot (dare I say Way) better shape than I had originally thought. Not too sure about that chuck, it seems small. It has a single key slot, not 3 like my ENCO 9 x 20. I noticed the chuck key size if 1/4"? I think I will be shopping around for a new slightly larger chuck in the foreseeable future.It says Kalamazoo IND on it which makes me think it is of decent quality, does anyone know anything about this chuck? I looked at the Shifter Rack Assembly when I got it home also. There is a shot of that here also. Looks like the Latch itself is broken. At least the pin is in the shifter rack and there is part of the Latch itself. This is great news, as it gives me a starting point for the template. Enjoy the pics and thanks everyone for all the help and sharing your knowledge and information with me.


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## Mister Ed

Very nice, it looks like you did pretty well.


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## markba633csi

Looks good to me, I wouldn't mind having a Logan at all  Good deal
Mark S.


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## Chuck K

Looks like it's ready to make chips. It's a clean machine. I don't know the prices in your area but I don't think you got hurt.  Just out of curiosity, did it have any oil in the apron?


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## Mister Ed

If you don't want to make the latch, Logan had them, the spring and pin on their website (not cheap, but nothing is).
Also, if you are looking at a chuck, several on here have bought this chuck from Shars:
http://www.shars.com/products/toolh...th-1-1-2-8-fully-machined-threaded-back-plate


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## Chuck K

I would second the chuck.  It allows you to use soft jaws when you need your material to run perfectly true.


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## Nogoingback

I don't know about Florida, but around here getting a Logan like that, tooled up and with the Starrett stuff would be a bargain.  I think you did very well.

As for the chuck, it looks about right.  You didn't say what size it is, but 10" Logans
commonly have 5 or 6 inch chucks on them.  I've read that putting too large (and thus
heavy) a chuck on them can over stress the spindle and the bearings.

Edit:   I was on the phone with Logan this morning, so I asked how much they get for the
shifter rack latch.  It's 18 bucks.


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## ACHiPo

HiCap239 said:


> OK, I got everything taken care of today, those things are heavier than I thought. Ended up renting a 3' x 5' Home Depot trailer for $15.64 for 4 hours. I have is temporarily on furniture dolly's until I decide on its final placement. I have right around $900 in it. Did I do ok at $900? I thought it was worth it because of the Starrett and Brown & Sharp measureing instruments. This includes the Starrett depth gauges, and the boxed Starrett set along with a Brown & Sharp dial indicator. The knurling tool is pretty neat also. I have never seen one that had 4 different patterns in one package. But then again I am fairly new to this. There were a lot of small assorted lathe bits, some new that I did not include in the photo, because well they are boring, Lol. I did give it a good wipe down and ended up rechecking the ways with a set of new parallel bars I just got. The Ways are actually in a lot (dare I say Way) better shape than I had originally thought. Not too sure about that chuck, it seems small. It has a single key slot, not 3 like my ENCO 9 x 20. I noticed the chuck key size if 1/4"? I think I will be shopping around for a new slightly larger chuck in the foreseeable future.It says Kalamazoo IND on it which makes me think it is of decent quality, does anyone know anything about this chuck? I looked at the Shifter Rack Assembly when I got it home also. There is a shot of that here also. Looks like the Latch itself is broken. At least the pin is in the shifter rack and there is part of the Latch itself. This is great news, as it gives me a starting point for the template. Enjoy the pics and thanks everyone for all the help and sharing your knowledge and information with me.


I'd say you did great!  I paid more than that for my 816, albeit with a bench and tooling, and I was delighted.


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## HiCap239

Chuck K said:


> Looks like it's ready to make chips. It's a clean machine. I don't know the prices in your area but I don't think you got hurt.  Just out of curiosity, did it have any oil in the apron?



Yes the whole machine was pretty much drenched in oil, the owner was still using it and even when wiped down oil still is seeping out of the apron. I am going to use Boeshield T-9 on it to keep the rust off of it. I have had really good luck down here with Boeshield T-9 and rust prevention. This is a harsh climate and I want to preserve this thing as well as I can.


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## HiCap239

Mister Ed said:


> If you don't want to make the latch, Logan had them, the spring and pin on their website (not cheap, but nothing is).
> Also, if you are looking at a chuck, several on here have bought this chuck from Shars:
> http://www.shars.com/products/toolh...th-1-1-2-8-fully-machined-threaded-back-plate



Thanks for  the info on the chuck. Looks like a bargain, I have seen some items from Shars online and was wondering what  the quality was. Looks like I just got  the answer. I am also looking for a collet closer bar as I plan on getting collets at some point. Is  there any one who makes on that works with the Model 1875 that can be recommended as a good one to get? If not I have seen some on Ebay but I do not know what models of Logan lathes parts like that and will interchange with mine. Is there any cross reference info any one would possibly have?


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## HiCap239

Nogoingback said:


> I don't know about Florida, but around here getting a Logan like that, tooled up and with the Starrett stuff would be a bargain.  I think you did very well.
> 
> As for the chuck, it looks about right.  You didn't say what size it is, but 10" Logans
> commonly have 5 or 6 inch chucks on them.  I've read that putting too large (and thus
> heavy) a chuck on them can over stress the spindle and the bearings.
> 
> Edit:   I was on the phone with Logan this morning, so I asked how much they get for the
> shifter rack latch.  It's 18 bucks.



Thanks for that info, I keep forgetting they are still in business and have parts. I will be looking them up and ordering one within the next day. I will also ask about a collet closer bar for that machine.


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## T. J.

Before you invest in collets, take the chuck off and evaluate how close you can get a cutting tool to the spindle nose. On my 10" Logan/Wards lathe, the carriage hits the QCGB and prevents working very close to the spindle. 

I don't have any collets for my machine, but when I'm ready to go that route I will get a collet chuck rather than a spindle nose adapter.   A collet chuck also will allow me to use either 5C or ER series collets, which are easier to come by and have a larger capacity than the 3AT collets that are required for the spindle nose.

Just food for thought, your machine may be different than mine. And congrats on the new machine!


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## Chuck K

I don't think Scott sells the collet closers anymore.  I know that he doesn't sell the dogged spindle nut that is needed.  I had one that I listed for sale but at the time I didn't have the nut for it and nobody was interested. I have since found the nut but I haven't had time to set it up and make sure everything works as it should...so it went back on the shelf.


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## ACHiPo

HiCap239 said:


> Yes the whole machine was pretty much drenched in oil, the owner was still using it and even when wiped down oil still is seeping out of the apron. I am going to use Boeshield T-9 on it to keep the rust off of it. I have had really good luck down here with Boeshield T-9 and rust prevention. This is a harsh climate and I want to preserve this thing as well as I can.


You might check out this article from Fine Woodworking.  They found CRC to be less expensive than Boeshield and work much better in humid environments.


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## Nogoingback

HiCap239 said:


> Thanks for that info, I keep forgetting they are still in business and have parts. I will be looking them up and ordering one within the next day. I will also ask about a collet closer bar for that machine.



If you call Logan, you can also get a copy of the  operator's instructions and parts lists from them.  You'll need them if you order parts in the future.


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## ACHiPo

Nogoingback said:


> If you call Logan, you can also get a copy of the  operator's instructions and parts lists from them.  You'll need them if you order parts in the future.


Well worth the ~$25!


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## MBfrontier

Congratulations HiCap239 on your purchase. I certainly would have bought that machine at that price.

I wouldn't sell the chuck that came with your machine short until you get a chance to measure run-out with a test bar that is known to be true. 

I bought a back gear shifter lock key for one of my lathes that I had to fit to get to work. On my other lathe I just used a piece of steel the right thickness to fit in the shifter groove and ground it to shape, drilled a hole, and installed it. Easier than I thought. Since you have the drawing it should be very easy to make your own.

Good luck with your project. I think you will be happy.


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## Mr Mike

Hmm.. Go figure, I find a logan 1875 buddy and he hasn't been on since Apr 17 - Thought we could compare some notes, Get some drinks and the next day after I leave his place he realizes he some how misplaced all his tooling by mistake..
Wonder how everything is turning out for him and his new lathe...


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