# Resurfaced my, (new to me) Walker-Ceramax 618 magnetic chuck



## Janderso (Oct 5, 2019)

This chuck works the way they are intended.
The B&S chuck that came with the Micromaster was in bad shape.
I practiced on the old worn out chuck.
Fresh dress on the wheel with lots of coolant and got it done.
I let it spark out on the last pass. Smooth as glass!
I’ll try the 5 block test later.


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## Alexander McGilton (Oct 5, 2019)

The 5 block method only tells you how good of a surface you have of the mag chuck. Should you have a horizon to the machine ways the the 5 blocks will be arched to the curve. To inspect the ways of the machine you need a neutrally sported beam to be ground on top and bottom faces. This can be done with a 1"x1"x12"-18" bar held in a vise in the middle and two equivalent hight risers on both ends. This is such that the beam is not subjected to the pull of the magnet. after grinding you will get a barrel shape (opposite to an hour glass) double the error of the machine's horizon.


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## Stonebriar (Oct 5, 2019)

Nice surface grinder.


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## Janderso (Oct 5, 2019)

Hugh,
I thought the 5 block test was the deal.
Makes sense now that I think of it.
I am a novice when it comes to surface grinding, and most other things too


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## benmychree (Oct 5, 2019)

Mighty nice looking mag chuck there, Jeff!


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## Janderso (Oct 5, 2019)

Why, I’m glad you noticed.
Not only does it look nice but it works perfectly.
I purchased this beautiful chuck from Bemnychree


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## Winegrower (Oct 6, 2019)

Man, I wish I wanted a surface grinder!
Nice job, Jeff.


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## Joeman77 (Oct 6, 2019)

Looks good! How do you guys keep your equipment so clean & good looking? Even when my stuff is cleaned up it looks bad by comparison.


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## Janderso (Oct 6, 2019)

I'm not into pimping out my machines, I am more interested in maintenance.
This surface grinder came to me in very good condition.


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## Cadillac (Oct 6, 2019)

So did you ever get the valving figured out on the machine with th e return stroke? Finish looks good what wheel did you use?


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## Richard King 2 (Oct 6, 2019)

Jeff I use the 5 block or 10 block method all the time and also check the top with a straight-edge/  You can use the straight edge I gave you.  You can put in 4 or 5 .001" shim stocks under the SE and try pulling them out.  Or just blue it up and set on the chuck and hinge it.  Your machine and grinding looks super!


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## Bob Korves (Oct 6, 2019)

Janderso said:


> This chuck works the way they are intended.
> The B&S chuck that came with the Micromaster was in bad shape.
> I practiced on the old worn out chuck.
> Fresh dress on the wheel with lots of coolant and got it done.
> ...


Looks very nice, Jeff!  Must be the wheel I told you to use...


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## Richard King 2 (Oct 7, 2019)

If you were using a electro-magnet chuck you would put a lock washer under the right side hold down nut and just snug it up, so when the chuck warms up it expands and moves there instead of bending the table.   I love you used the coolant too as so many grind them dry and wonder why they get colored streaks.


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## Janderso (Oct 7, 2019)

Mr. Cadillac man, I am still attending the valve as it jumps on the left side reversing lever.
Richard, have you run into this before? When the table reversing dog hits the lever it will jog back and forth a time or two before continuing on. I attend it by holding the lever to the fully reversed position and it works.
The Hobby Machinists are meeting at my shop in a couple weeks, maybe I can get some input on this Grinder issue.

Thanks for the kind words, I’m proud of myself.
This chuck is in very good shape.
I used the Radiac RA46 J8 V8. You know, the one Bob told me about.


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## Richard King 2 (Oct 7, 2019)

A couple of things could be happening:  The reversing valve is either worn or dirty.  Or the reversing handle was taken apart once and not put back in the same factory setting.   I have also seen where the dog on the table is worn and that doesn't push the lever far enough.

Have you checked the system pressure?   Cleaned the tank?  New oil?


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## Janderso (Oct 7, 2019)

Richard,
Yes, new oil after a thorough cleaning. I am using Vacuoline 1405. The tank and machine was pretty clean.
Replaced both filters, one screen and one wool.
I replaced all the Bijur metering valves. Had the table off to clean and prove out the oiling system.
I have played with the adjustment on the dog and have increased the diameter of the roller. The problem is, there is a split second required to hold the lever in position. I would assume the pressure needs to build but the other side works as designed??
I'll check pressure this morning. I'm off this week.
We are having a Staycation.


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## Janderso (Oct 7, 2019)

I have a schematic of the hydraulic system that differs slightly from my machine.
Where do I install my pressure gage?


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## Janderso (Oct 7, 2019)

The question is, where to install the gauge?


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## Janderso (Oct 7, 2019)

I have 95-100 lbs at the table control valve when the throttle is open.
I am pretty sure I need 125.


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## Cadillac (Oct 7, 2019)

Just a observation in your last pic with the gauge installed is that a oil sight glass about 2-3” above the gauge. Idk if it primes when pumping but that sight glass is empty. With the gauge you have it would be better to get one more in the range you need. Looks like it’s a touch above 100 psi from the angle viewed. Might be more accurate to get a different gauge?? Could their be a possibility of a stubborn air pocket in the system??


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## Janderso (Oct 7, 2019)

All you said and then some Caddy man. No not an oil sight.
This gauge is a cheap Taiwan unit, it could easily be off by the margin. Yes it could have air, I just don't know what to do about it.
When I took the plug out to install it, I'm sure I introduced an air pocket.
By jogging the throttle a few times it settled where it is cold.
It would only go down as it warmed up right?


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## benmychree (Oct 7, 2019)

Any air in the system is automatically purged out when the machine is started and the table is cycled, at least that is how mine operates.


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## Cadillac (Oct 7, 2019)

I would think the level would rise a touch when warmed up. The fluid should expand alittle.


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## Richard King 2 (Oct 7, 2019)

I found this manual.  http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2185/16500.pdf   Section H - Trouble shooting - says the table reverse valve could be sticking.  Also on page E 3  is the schematic of the oil system.   It's been many years since I worked on one of these.  I believe there is a oil cushion valve on each end of the table piston or the reversing valve...  so the table slows a little before reversing. I would look at that    Also that pressure gage is filled with glycerin to slow the needle.  I use them all the time and the pressure gage isn't perfect, but I would use it.  Another way I use to test table pressure when I went to check a machine was to try to hold the table when it advances toward you.   Be sure no wall is behind you...squishhh..lol  If the machine set for a longtime there is a good chance the reversing valve got rusty and when you started to use it it may have burred the valve or body.  Open it up and check everything. use the stone I gave you and then put a light coat of oil on it and it should push back and forth with your fingers.  If not get some 600 grit emery paper and work around the hole,  and try it again after you wash everything with clean mineral spirits.


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## Janderso (Oct 8, 2019)

I’ll give it a shot.
This grinder sat for a long time.
Thank you Richard.


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## Janderso (Oct 8, 2019)

I am reluctant to tear into the valve block as I don’t know what spring and ball may go flying.
“All table circuit valves are contained, throttle, pilot and reversing are combined in one valve block”. (I)
I’m a pretty handy guy but I am venturing into the unknown here.
Anyone ever done this job?
Clean and deburr the valve?


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## Richard King 2 (Oct 8, 2019)

Boc Boc Bocccc.....   simple as any other mechanical repair, just uncomfortable sitting on the floor.  Take a bunch of pictures while doing it. Lay the valves on clean rags in the order they come out.  I doubt their will be springs unless you pull a relief valve.   I bet John could help you or DH. Have you ever rebuilt a master cylinder for your old cars when you were a kid?  simple as that  Also I could talk with Bourn & Kooch who now own the old B&S company, where I have taught scraping classes at.  Have Bob or John or Jim or John come over and help.


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## Joeman77 (Oct 8, 2019)

I agree with Richard, take your time & lots of pictures as you go. Cleanliness is your best friend in these things, you want things smooth & clean before to reassemble. Then a light coat of hydraulic oil as you assemble it. Take your time & you'll be fine.
 Hydraulic components are remarkably simple for what they do, they're only scary until you've been in a few!


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## Janderso (Oct 8, 2019)

Challenge......


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## Janderso (Oct 8, 2019)

Bocc, bocc,
I fixed it!!!
I am including pics of the valve piston and cylinders.
They still show the factory honing marks and there is no evidence of debris or rust.
In the process I noticed the lever that controls the valve was set too low, it was causing a binding condition.
It works as designed.
Thank you for daring me to attack the valve!
	

		
			
		

		
	





View attachment B68C40C5-39B7-4C85-AF3C-FC054CFFB4B1.MOV


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## Bob Korves (Oct 8, 2019)

What could possibly go wrong? 

Good job, Jeff!  Sure beats babysitting the thing while it finish cuts a big surface with a small step over...


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## Janderso (Oct 8, 2019)

Very true,
The art of learning to use this grinder to finish grind is yet to come.
I made a big step today. As far as I know, this Micromaster is ready and able to work for me.


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## Cadillac (Oct 8, 2019)

Good job Jeff. See peer pressure does do good things sometimes.


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## Janderso (Oct 8, 2019)

I couldn’t agree more.
Like Bob said, what could go wrong?
I ran a finish pass over this maveable jaw I picked out of the fire rubble. It has to be annealed.
I used an open 46 J wheel.
It came out very nice, I’m trying to show the finish but it doesn’t quite do it.
Nice grinder now that it works as designed.
Thank you Richard King!!!


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## Bob Korves (Oct 9, 2019)

It looks good to me, Jeff.  Part of the game of getting good surface finishes is of course what wheel you use, but dressing the wheel before the finish cut is a big part of it, and how deep and how fast you move the diamond across the wheel makes a big difference in your surface finish.  Most hobby grinder hands do not dress the wheel often enough when doing the roughing, either.  Make yourself a nib holder that is easy and quick to mount to the vise (or have it where it can stay mounted), have the diamond at about the same height you are grinding at, and you will be happier to dress the wheel more often.  Beyond the surface finish, getting the crud and dull grains out of the wheel also makes the grinding cooler, which will give you better control of the actual depths you are cutting.  When you get to the finish stage, keeping the heat down and the crud out of the wheel becomes highly important.  There are some good writings on the web about how to dress wheels properly for differing work, try to watch some of them and understand the ideas that they are suggesting.  Even on my old and not perfect B&S 2L grinder, I can get decent finishes most of the time, WAY better than I could when I first started at it.  "Everything matters!"  For good finishes, and for less heat in the work, only use our narrow wheels for cutting in one direction only, and with smaller stepovers for finishing.  The leading side of the wheel does the heavy work, and wears and loads up and gets dull as it does so, but the trailing side of the wheel barely gets used, finishing the cuts nice and clean and to size with sharp grains.  Try it, you'll like it...


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## Janderso (Oct 9, 2019)

I have two diamond dressers. Both are the dull style tip.
I have read to use a sharp dress at times. 
I look forward to learning the sport.
Those precision stones we ground sure get used often, they are fabulous.


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## Bob Korves (Oct 9, 2019)

Janderso said:


> Those precision stones we ground sure get used often, they are fabulous.


My 6" electronic calipers used to be the most used tools in the shop.  Now the precision ground flat stones have inched into that spot.


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## Joeman77 (Oct 10, 2019)

Never had a doubt! 
 Unless you were to ...  Lol


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