# Oil Can Source?



## ACHiPo (Feb 18, 2017)

While the Eagle oil can project is on my list for my new lathe, I need an oiler before then (you know, you need tools to make tools, and so on...).

Where can I get a decent oiler (oil can?) for the ways, spindle, gears, etc. until I get the museum-piece Eagle clone built?

Thanks,
Evan


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## mikey (Feb 18, 2017)

Forget the Eagle and buy a Reilang oiler - finest kind made.


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## 4GSR (Feb 18, 2017)

You can still buy Golden Rod oil cans from most industrial supply houses out there.  Even some hardware stores carry them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GOLDENR...643974?hash=item1ea08d7506:g:C20AAOSwgQ9Vig78

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GOLDENR...249529?hash=item5d5a23bab9:g:A0kAAOSwyQtViuwc

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GOLDENR...597471?hash=item488034ecdf:g:M3sAAOSwyQtVivXO

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GoldenRod-5...358354?hash=item25bae4fa12:g:7VcAAOSwjVVVr7Oh

Just search "Golden Rod Oil Can" on eBay or your favorite search engine.

Ken


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## 4GSR (Feb 18, 2017)

mikey said:


> Forget the Eagle and buy a Reilang oiler - finest kind made.


WOW! They are proud of their prices on them.  They are nice!  I'll stick with my Golden Rod oil cans that are oily to touch every time I need to use them.


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## ACHiPo (Feb 18, 2017)

4gsr said:


> You can still buy Golden Rod oil cans from most industrial supply houses out there.  Even some hardware stores carry them.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GOLDENR...643974?hash=item1ea08d7506:g:C20AAOSwgQ9Vig78
> 
> ...


I saw the Goldenrod cans.  They are ok?  I've seen disparaging remarks on import (Chinese) oil cans.  As long as they'll work and depress the ball oilers on my lathe, I'm happy.


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## 4GSR (Feb 18, 2017)

ACHiPo said:


> I saw the Goldenrod cans.  They are ok?  I've seen disparaging remarks on import (Chinese) oil cans.  As long as they'll work and depress the ball oilers on my lathe, I'm happy.


They will not work very good on ball oilers!  You have to find one of those POS ones for that.  I try to replace ball oilers with Gits oil cups when I can.


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## ACHiPo (Feb 18, 2017)

mikey said:


> Forget the Eagle and buy a Reilang oiler - finest kind made.



I found this Reilang oiler for $70 delivered.  Seems steep, but maybe it's worth it?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JP-Reilang-...:g:pYkAAOSwaNBUexfP&item=262850141541&vxp=mtr


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## 4GSR (Feb 18, 2017)

ACHiPo said:


> I found this Reilang oiler for $70 delivered.  Seems steep, but maybe it's worth it?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/JP-Reilang-...:g:pYkAAOSwaNBUexfP&item=262850141541&vxp=mtr


It don't appear it's made to use on ball oilers!  Even the Eagle oil can will not work well on ball oilers!


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## mikey (Feb 18, 2017)

ACHiPo said:


> I found this Reilang oiler for $70 delivered.  Seems steep, but maybe it's worth it?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/JP-Reilang-...:g:pYkAAOSwaNBUexfP&item=262850141541&vxp=mtr



I had two Golden rods and several other American oilers with names I don't recall. None of them come close to a Reilang oiler, of which I have two. Reilang oilers work upright, canted over, sideways or upside down - all without leaking. They will pump a stream or just one drop, and they will do so every time. The cans are heavy cast aluminum. Yeah, they're expensive but I don't think I'll ever need another oiler in my lifetime.

Ken, I took the tips off my Reilang oilers and stuck them in the lathe to round the pointed tips with a file. Now they seal well on ball oilers just fine.

If there is a better oiler out there, I would be very surprised.


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## ACHiPo (Feb 18, 2017)

mikey said:


> I had two Golden rods and several other American oilers with names I don't recall. None of them come close to a Reilang oiler, of which I have two. Reilang oilers work upright, canted over, sideways or upside down - all without leaking. They will pump a stream or just one drop, and they will do so every time. The cans are heavy cast aluminum. Yeah, they're expensive but I don't think I'll ever need another oiler in my lifetime.
> 
> Ken, I took the tips off my Reilang oilers and stuck them in the lathe to round the pointed tips with a file. Now they seal well on ball oilers just fine.
> 
> If there is a better oiler out there, I would be very surprised.


That's quite the endorsement.  I'm sold!


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## mikey (Feb 18, 2017)

ACHiPo said:


> That's quite the endorsement.  I'm sold!



If I wasn't absolutely certain of my opinion, I would worry but I'm not. Try one and I'll bet you'll buy another just to be sure you have a backup. They are no longer made (I think), hence the price. There are two cans - one smooth, one ridged but the mechanism inside is the same. I use one for way oil and the other for hydraulic oil.


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## Chipper5783 (Feb 18, 2017)

mikey said:


> If there is a better oiler out there, I would be very surprised.



There is.  Also by Reilang!  A push type oil gun.  Works great for either the recessed or nipple oil fittings (any position) - you thread a different fitting on the end depending on how you want to use it.  I wish I'd bought one years earlier.  I don't see any on Jen's e-bay store.  Contact him and I'm sure he'll fix you up (he is very good to work with).

I had some fittings that were hard to get oil into (they needed more pressure).  The Reilang handles that easily.

There are other push type oil guns to be found on the internet - but the ones I found were not any cheaper.

Let us know how you make out.  David


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## MrDan (Feb 18, 2017)

I have a couple Eagle 66's that I bought on eBay for around $20 plus shipping, and they both worked fine. Many are listed as vintage collector's items, with prices to match, but if you watch for a few days you can usually find one at a reasonable price. Here's one for around $25 that could use a good cleaning:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-BRA...PUMP-OILER-CAN-WITH-ADVERTISING-/162398493987


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## mikey (Feb 19, 2017)

Chipper5783 said:


> There is.  Also by Reilang!  A push type oil gun.  Works great for either the recessed or nipple oil fittings (any position) - you thread a different fitting on the end depending on how you want to use it.  I wish I'd bought one years earlier.  I don't see any on Jen's e-bay store.  Contact him and I'm sure he'll fix you up (he is very good to work with).
> 
> I had some fittings that were hard to get oil into (they needed more pressure).  The Reilang handles that easily.
> 
> ...



David, I saw that one and emailed Jens about it. I was going to buy it as a grease gun but had second thoughts because the one I have, also a pump type, works fine so I held off. I may eventually get one, though. Glad to know they work well.


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## Glenn Brooks (Feb 19, 2017)

Can anybody post a photo or two of an oil can tip that ACTUALLY pumps oil through a ball oiler?  

I have several oil cans and NONE of them ever have put oil through a ball oiler.  Constant source of frustration not to be able to put adequate lubrication down the throats of ball oilers.  I would like to see what a tip looks like that actually works- if indeed such a thing exists. Then maybe I can go buy or make the correct something that will deliver sufficient  oil where it is supposed to go... sorry for the testy tone of my post.  I just don't understand why so many machine tools are equipped with such worthless devices as ball oilers.

Thanks much,
Glenn


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## darkzero (Feb 19, 2017)

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


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## darkzero (Feb 19, 2017)

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


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## mikey (Feb 19, 2017)

Glenn Brooks said:


> Can anybody post a photo or two of an oil can tip that ACTUALLY pumps oil through a ball oiler?



This is a Reilang oiler with a tip that I rounded to work with the ball oilers on my Emco lathe. They seal really well and I can pump a large volume of oil through the oiler without leakage. The original tip is more pointed so oil leaked under pressure ... not anymore.


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## ACHiPo (Feb 19, 2017)

Chipper5783 said:


> There is.  Also by Reilang!  A push type oil gun.  Works great for either the recessed or nipple oil fittings (any position) - you thread a different fitting on the end depending on how you want to use it.  I wish I'd bought one years earlier.  I don't see any on Jen's e-bay store.  Contact him and I'm sure he'll fix you up (he is very good to work with).
> 
> I had some fittings that were hard to get oil into (they needed more pressure).  The Reilang handles that easily.
> 
> ...


Is "Jens" the guy that runs this site?
https://www.jensputzier.com


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## ACHiPo (Feb 19, 2017)

MrDan said:


> I have a couple Eagle 66's that I bought on eBay for around $20 plus shipping, and they both worked fine. Many are listed as vintage collector's items, with prices to match, but if you watch for a few days you can usually find one at a reasonable price. Here's one for around $25 that could use a good cleaning:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-BRA...PUMP-OILER-CAN-WITH-ADVERTISING-/162398493987


Thanks.  What's the risk a can like that won't work or will leak?


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## ACHiPo (Feb 19, 2017)

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


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## MrDan (Feb 19, 2017)

ACHiPo said:


> Thanks.  What's the risk a can like that won't work or will leak?



There's always that possibility of course...


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## royesses (Feb 19, 2017)

Harry J Epstein's has goldenrod USA. Outstanding people to deal with. I've purchased 3 from them and very happy with them.
http://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/tool-type/oil-cans.html


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## arvidj (Feb 19, 2017)

4gsr said:


> You can still buy Golden Rod oil cans from most industrial supply houses out there.  Even some hardware stores carry them.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GOLDENR...643974?hash=item1ea08d7506:g:C20AAOSwgQ9Vig78
> 
> ...



I get them at Tractor Supply ...

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...r-12-oz-with-8-in-flexible-spout?cm_vc=-10005

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...er-6-oz-with-6-in-flexible-spout?cm_vc=-10005

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...-32-oz-with-15-in-flexible-spout?cm_vc=-10005

Certainly very near the bottom of the 'exotic tool supplier' vendor list ;-}


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## mikey (Feb 19, 2017)

ACHiPo said:


> Is "Jens" the guy that runs this site?
> https://www.jensputzier.com



Yes. He is slow to respond to emails sometimes but he does respond.


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## Charles Spencer (Feb 19, 2017)

I bought a Goldenrod made in the USA off of Amazon a couple of months ago.


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## darkzero (Feb 19, 2017)

ACHiPo said:


> Is "Jens" the guy that runs this site?
> https://www.jensputzier.com



FYI, I've got him saved on ebay, his prices are slightly cheaper on ebay.


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## ACHiPo (Feb 19, 2017)

darkzero said:


> FYI, I've got him saved on ebay, his prices are slightly cheaper on ebay.


Got the lube figured out.  I need one oiler for spindle oil into ball oilers--the Reilang seems like the ticket.  I need another way to dispense way oil--thinking the Goldenrod oiler will work well for that, although Reilang also has an oiler with a brush that look like it would work well, but I'd rather not drop another $70.


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## woodchucker (Feb 19, 2017)

4gsr said:


> You can still buy Golden Rod oil cans from most industrial supply houses out there.  Even some hardware stores carry them.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GOLDENR...643974?hash=item1ea08d7506:g:C20AAOSwgQ9Vig78
> 
> ...


Good oilers.


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## woodchucker (Feb 19, 2017)

mikey said:


> Forget the Eagle and buy a Reilang oiler - finest kind made.



I have one Reilang, nice, but very pricey. I got mine at a sale of a machinists tools.


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## mikey (Feb 19, 2017)

ACHiPo said:


> Got the lube figured out.  I need one oiler for spindle oil into ball oilers--the Reilang seems like the ticket.  I need another way to dispense way oil--thinking the Goldenrod oiler will work well for that, although Reilang also has an oiler with a brush that look like it would work well, but I'd rather not drop another $70.



Yup, that's why I have two; one for way oil and one for hydraulic oil. Works good.


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## Chipper5783 (Feb 19, 2017)

I have 3 Golden Rod oilers - good oilers and useful for general squirting, but the ones I have don't generate enough pressure for the oil fittings.  I have one of the clear pump units like darkzero, but in pressure service the check ball down inside keeps getting imbedded in the plastic seat.

The Eagle 66 project looks like it has a good pump (may have to make one some day) and if I ever see an Eagle 66 for cheap, I'll get it.

Here is the Reilang pump with both tips (if you need both the cup and nipple let him know - he'll probably send both anyway).  I've also included a shot of the oil cans that I am using or have messed around with (this does not include greasing devices, RapidTap or tapping squirts).

"If I knew then what I know now" I'd have about half the number of oiling devices.


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## Glenn Brooks (Feb 19, 2017)

So, how does one remove a ball oiler.  I assume they are screwed into a threaded hole...  which means unscrewing them some how, or drilling them out and prying with  a screw driver or awl...  

What is the recommended method?  

Thanks
Glenn


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## darkzero (Feb 20, 2017)

Glenn Brooks said:


> So, how does one remove a ball oiler.  I assume they are screwed into a threaded hole...  which means unscrewing them some how, or drilling them out and prying with  a screw driver or awl...
> 
> What is the recommended method?
> 
> ...



How to remove them without damage to reuse them, I have no idea. I've heard of people screwing wood or drywall screws or similar into them then pulling up on them.

I too would like to know if there's a correct way to do it. I do have replacement ball oilers & there's nothing to them, just a press fit so I would think that they come out pretty easy.


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## Glenn Brooks (Feb 20, 2017)

Thanks Darkzero.  I'd like to put large oil caps or even drip oilers in place of some of my oilers.  Think I will try the sheet rock screw method.  Might also try an easy out, if pressed in.

Glenn


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## darkzero (Feb 20, 2017)

Oh I totally forget, while this subject has came up again, I might as well reference to it again. Here's a trick made by our late friend GaryK that should work on any oil can. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/oil-can-fix.11507/


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## ACHiPo (Feb 20, 2017)

Chipper5783 said:


> I have 3 Golden Rod oilers - good oilers and useful for general squirting, but the ones I have don't generate enough pressure for the oil fittings.  I have one of the clear pump units like darkzero, but in pressure service the check ball down inside keeps getting imbedded in the plastic seat.
> 
> The Eagle 66 project looks like it has a good pump (may have to make one some day) and if I ever see an Eagle 66 for cheap, I'll get it.
> 
> ...


David,
Did you modify the ball oiler tip or did it work/seal well from the get-go?
Evan


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## Chipper5783 (Feb 20, 2017)

Hi Evan,
To make the oil gun work - no modification was required.  It worked great right out of the box.  Yes, it seals well (if the fitting is in good condition, then all the oil goes in).  On my little mill, with the nipple style fittings, there are a couple where I can't get perpendicular to the fitting - so I'm not getting a good delivery on them (can't really blame the oiler).

As others have said, you may need a few different oiling devices.  I found a Lincoln oil pump and added a flex end that works for those difficult to access fittings.


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## porthos (Feb 20, 2017)

two comments here. 
1st    i have 4 golden rod oilers. they work fine. but, i hated the paint; so, i stripped it off and polished the cans. very easy to strip with the cheapest paint stripper, it almost falls of as you brush on the stripper.

2nd   all i do to oil the ball oilers is depress the ball with a sharp tool such as a scribe and drip the oil in.

 well maybe 3 comments. now i'm going to goggle reilang oilers


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## MrSteveB (Feb 25, 2017)

Hi all,

First post to H-M, hope the photo uploads correctly. 

I'm completing set up on my new PM1340GT. The issue of how to work with those ball oilers crossed my to-do list the first day I uncrated her. After a couple of lunch time searches thru the interwebs, here's how I did it.

The oil can is from Tractor Supply. The one I chose has a flexible spout. It's of the expected stamped quality, so a little care to flush it out to remove any bits of flash is prudent.

I ran a small round file perpendicular across the tip so pushing it against the ball does not prevent oil from flowing into the oiler chamber. I then added a short section of model glow engine fuel tube over the tip as a gasket of sorts. I cut it a little proud so it compresses and does a better job of sealing.
	

		
			
		

		
	




It works like a charm!


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## GarageGuy (Feb 25, 2017)

royesses said:


> Harry J Epstein's has goldenrod USA. Outstanding people to deal with. I've purchased 3 from them and very happy with them.
> http://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/tool-type/oil-cans.html



I have the Eagle version of the Goldenrod 600.  It works perfectly on ball oilers.  The tip depresses the ball, and also fits tightly around the edge to minimize leakage.  Mine is filled with way oil.

GG


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## EmilioG (Feb 25, 2017)

Take a look at Beta tools oilers.
I don't own one but will probably buy one of the small ones soon. Reilang is on my list also. Thanks Mikey.


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## evilwrench (Feb 25, 2017)

Glenn Brooks said:


> Can anybody post a photo or two of an oil can tip that ACTUALLY pumps oil through a ball oiler?
> 
> I have several oil cans and NONE of them ever have put oil through a ball oiler.  Constant source of frustration not to be able to put adequate lubrication down the throats of ball oilers.  I would like to see what a tip looks like that actually works- if indeed such a thing exists. Then maybe I can go buy or make the correct something that will deliver sufficient  oil where it is supposed to go... sorry for the testy tone of my post.  I just don't understand why so many machine tools are equipped with such worthless devices as ball oilers.
> 
> ...


Glenn, I made an oiler for these ball fittings  some years ago out of an ordinary grease gun. I removed the spring and plunger and sealed the end cap with a gasket material disk. I replaced the discharge tube with a pointed tube grease gun accessory that I think I bought at NAPA. I just unscrew the end cap and fill it with way oil and I have no troble forcing oil in those silly fittings. The pointed tip seals very well.


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## Round in circles (Feb 26, 2017)

Glenn Brooks said:


> Can anybody post a photo or two of an oil can tip that ACTUALLY pumps oil through a ball oiler?
> 
> I have several oil cans and NONE of them ever have put oil through a ball oiler.  Constant source of frustration not to be able to put adequate lubrication down the throats of ball oilers.  I would like to see what a tip looks like that actually works- if indeed such a thing exists. Then maybe I can go buy or make the correct something that will deliver sufficient  oil where it is supposed to go... sorry for the testy tone of my post.  I just don't understand why so many machine tools are equipped with such worthless devices as ball oilers.
> 
> ...


Ball oilers .. fairly good to close up an oil hole without the cap sticking up above the mean surface .... so nothing to knock off if you catch it . 

 Why not put a single small nick in the rim of the end of the oil can nozzle with a fine triangular swiss file or a decent junior hacksaw blade etc .  So that when you use the nozzle tip to depress the ball in the oiler there is somewhere that the oil can escape from the oil can tip , to run down the ball & into the oil reservoir ...      Job done .. Simples ...


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## Chipper5783 (Feb 26, 2017)

Several comments above about having to depress the ball in the oiler to allow the oil to enter the fitting.???  The pressure generated by the oil pump is what depresses the ball.  It is like a small check valve - you don't have to do anything, just pump the oil in.  Maybe I am missing something?  Are there other types of fittings?


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## MetalMuncher (Feb 26, 2017)

If you don't mind ordering overseas, this place in the UK has some Rielang Oiler prices that look pretty good compared to what I read above in this thread.  https://maccmodels.co.uk/reilang-oil-cans.html


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## mcthomas (Mar 2, 2017)

ACHiPo said:


> I found this Reilang oiler for $70 delivered.  Seems steep, but maybe it's worth it?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/JP-Reilang-...:g:pYkAAOSwaNBUexfP&item=262850141541&vxp=mtr



I see the Reilang R003-253 7oz oil can for for $56.13 if you really want one..
https://www.jensputzier.com/reilang...3-253-merkur-precision-oiler-with-double-pump 
If you order it from their website, not ebay.. 

Oops.. The one you found was the R003-252, which is a 10oz oil can.. It is a few bucks more. $58.64 Shipped to the USA/
https://www.jensputzier.com/reilang...3-252-merkur-precision-oiler-with-double-pump

Someone Please Clarify.. 
 I hate leaky oil cans.. I have a bunch of them. But, I wasn't as lucky as darkzero to buy a plastic can that works.. Ha..Ha.. 
In order of price that Does Not Leak..?
Plastic clear oil cans pictured above by DarkZero.. I'm going to look for some of them.

The Eagle 66.. No one said they didn't leak.. Can anyone confirm whether they do or not?
I see one on ebay for a not too bad price yet.. Still open bid.. 

The Reilang is the Cadillac of oil cans.. Price to match.. Might do that if I don't get something else that works.. 
I have 3 or 4 of the Golden Rod or Golden Rod Clone cans.. All of them leak from somewhere.


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## Kevin J (Mar 6, 2017)

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


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## ACHiPo (Mar 6, 2017)

I've got a Reilang 200 ml oiler ordered.  I picked up a couple Goldenrod oilers this past weekend, and have Vectra 2 and Spindle oil on order as well.  I should be all set in the next couple weeks.


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