# Hi Spot / Prussian Blue Dye



## 38super (Mar 1, 2020)

Has anyone tried other light wavelengths to help see high spots?  I tried UV, but interpreting high spots from reflections is not easy.


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## Ulma Doctor (Mar 1, 2020)

i have not, but the prospect is enticing!


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## 38super (Mar 2, 2020)

Not gonna work, Hi Spot does not fluoresce to UV.  Oh well, on to another dead end


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## darkzero (Mar 2, 2020)

What if you tried mixing in UV dye? Can get it at any auto parts store & it's not expensive. Not sure if it will mix well though or if it will change the viscosity any. Worth a try IMO.


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## 38super (Mar 3, 2020)

Hmmm


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## darkzero (Mar 3, 2020)

Hmm is right! That would be cool if it works. Who knows, maybe you stumbled upon a new product to offer! 

If you get rich, I would like 2% consulting fee of the profit on the first batch please.


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## 38super (Mar 3, 2020)

Now the perspiration starts.


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## tertiaryjim (Mar 3, 2020)

I've tried long and short wave UV lights with canode and dykem blue. Didn't expect it to work and it didn't disapoint .
Have been using a florescent which isn't very good but will look for Full Spectrum Bulbs for the lamp and may try darkzero's idea.


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## graham-xrf (Apr 4, 2020)

You might try monochromatic laser light from a cheap pointer, scattered through some ground glass, or a piece of acrylic or polycarbonate. Perhaps yellow light from a sodium lamp. It shows red colour as black, and a high spot sans dye that got rubbed away might show as bright yellow on the shiny spot.

To be clear, is this kind of high-spotting the reverse kind where the blue is applied very thin, direct to the part being spotted, and then one looks for the shiny spots where it was rubbed away?

For context, I am inexperienced in this. I just keep reading anything I find, and try to figure out what folk do. I also experiment a lot.


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## Cooter Brown (Apr 4, 2020)

Rub yellow Ink on the part first and wipe it off with a rag then apply the blue. The yellow will block the reflection a little and make the blue easier to see.....

This is what Richard King made us do in his scraping class....


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## graham-xrf (Apr 4, 2020)

@Cooter Brown :
The stuff I have used is "Micrometer" engineer's blue marking, and also, very successfully, "Pébéo Ocre Rouge, Huile Fine" which is a very finely powdered high density oil colour for artists. I got it from eBay, mostly because it was a huge heavy 200ml XL tube for a fraction of the price of a little tube of blue. It spreads, and works the same, and wipes away with a little alcohol.

When you say "yellow dye", do you mean the stuff you dye clothes with, maybe dispersed in a liquid?
Maybe allowed to dry? Is it special stuff for metalwork?


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## Cooter Brown (Apr 4, 2020)

graham-xrf said:


> @Cooter Brown :
> The stuff I have used is "Micrometer" engineer's blue marking, and also, very successfully, "Pébéo Ocre Rouge, Huile Fine" which is a very finely powdered high density oil colour for artists. I got it from eBay, mostly because it was a huge heavy 200ml XL tube for a fraction of the price of a little tube of blue. It spreads, and works the same, and wipes away with a little alcohol.
> 
> When you say "yellow dye", do you mean the stuff you dye clothes with, maybe dispersed in a liquid?
> Maybe allowed to dry? Is it special stuff for metalwork?




Richard King uses a few brands of waterbased ink called Canode Yellow Die Spotting Ink or Charbonnel Aqua Wash Etching Ink......

The Canode brand is difficult to find but the Charbonnel is available on amazon....

He made us add a little windex to it, rub it on with a foam paint roller and then wipe it off with a dry rag..... Then after bluing the part the yellow really makes the blue pop out...


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