# 3/4hp variable speed dc motor with control, from an untapped source



## jumps4

today while going through ebay to find what ever i ran across a source of industrial dc motors i would have never thought of. in the sewing machine section i found a 3/4 hp 0-3500 dc motor with controller complete for $129.00 new free shipping. i bought one for my 9x20 lathe and will post how it works. a sewing machine needs the same torque running slow as it does running fast, i hope it works well if so i'll get another for the zx45's high speed spindle instead of converting it to 3 phase.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140895554335?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
steve


----------



## Kroll

Interesting,please do w/pics----Kroll


----------



## OakRidgeGuy

Yes Steve, I would be interested in how that turns out for sure!

Doc


----------



## Rbeckett

Looks like a winner to me too, steve.  The sewing machine idea is a winner and they are pretty heavy duty too.  Let us know how you fit it on the lathe and how it works when you get the lathe finished.
Bob


----------



## jumps4

the thing that has me wondering is the foot pedal lever but i'm sure it is electronic. you can see it in the pic if you look close.
we will see in about a week
steve


----------



## Tony Wells

I don't see a foot pedal. I see a speed pot on the motor housing, and a switch on the fused power supply enclosure.  I imagine you could easily relocate the speed pot to a remote location.


----------



## OakRidgeGuy

I am wondering if you could wire and configure that foot pedal to be like a foot break.. just incase something were to happen.


----------



## OakRidgeGuy

Now that you mention that.. the only thing that looks to me that would resemble a foot switch, may actually be the mounting bracket.


----------



## Bill Gruby

What you perceive to be the foot pedal is the mounting bracket. The "L" shaped piece is the belt tensioner. When mounted on the sewing machine that motor hangs down.

"Billy G" :thinking:


----------



## jumps4

here is a pic showing location of foot pedal lever
on the mechanical clutch motors the motor runs all the time when you depress the pedal it engages the clutch and the more you press the faster it moves. on the servo type it turns the motor on the more you press the faster it goes untill it reaches the max speed you set on the dial.
steve


----------



## jumps4

that feature could be really handy for threading on a normal 9x20 (non-cnc) because it's lowest speed is so fast.
these are dc servo motors and can be reversed and have braking by installing a switch and braking circuit according to the manufacturer
i could see it being used as a table power feed or knee lift   lots of uses and plenty of power
steve


----------



## xalky

I'm thinking about powering a HF bead roller with one of these. I'd like to see the motor in action with the pedal. Variable speed is what I'm looking for.


----------



## jumps4

ok,
I'm going to play with it a while before installing on the cnc 9x20 just to see what it's uses can be.
if that is a 10k pot on the front i have a board mach3 will control for spindle i may use
will keep you posted
steve


----------



## xalky

So I'm wondering if the pot on the motor sets the max rpm and if the foot pedal goes from zero to max. I'm assuming it does, because sewing machines are foot operated and they always stop when the foot pedal is released. This thing looks like just the ticket for my next project, the bead roller.

That motor would also be great to power a HF tubing roller.


----------



## jumps4

xalky that is how the pedal works, the knob sets max. the pedal controls 0 to max you set
I havent found any info on the model i ordered so i'll have to wait for delivery to see how the pedal lever works. on the electronic models with keypad they use a laser and a paper gradiant to change the light passing through. to change speeds the less light that passes through the faster it goes. even with that it is a seperate piece most likely it has to be changing a voltage being sent to the controller.
steve


----------



## jumps4

also some reverse by moving the lever the other way. that could be used on a drill press with a slipper clutch for tapping threads pretty easy
I'm thinking of all kinds of uses now  lol
steve


----------



## xalky

jumps4 said:


> I'm thinking of all kinds of uses now  lol
> steve


 Yeah, me too. This could be the beginning of a great relationship.... me and the motor...I mean. :lmao:


----------



## jumps4

the sewing machine motor showed up today and i'm impressed so far...
it says servo motor but i dont see a sensor for controlling motor speed  on the shaft?
so for now i think it is just a variable speed dc motor
the pedal switch for speed is controlled by a magnet on the lever, the closer the magnet the faster it runs. so it can be moved and redone as a switch or variable resistor. or a threaded rod to pull the lever to what ever speed.
the dial setting for max speed is a switch with resisters solidered across each contact giving presets the lower the speed the higher the resistance. it can be replaced with a pot (variable resistor)
the motor has just 2 wires coming out of it so the controls can all be moved but should have a fan installed if moved.
i believe i can control this motor from mach3 by replacing the magnetic sensor with a motor controller card no problem
direction is a simple switch reversing motor polarity.
removing the foot pedal lever also removes the mechanical brake but an electrical brake is easy with a resistor and relays.
i have not bolted it to anything yet but i think i'll do a drill press first 
the motors housing is threaded, so other mounting is possible pretty easy.
until i take it apart further i dont know the variable resistor or voltage requirements to control the motor but i will post them.
I want to test the motor for power availability/limits before disassembly
steve

[video=youtube;92OrGyPIt70]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92OrGyPIt70&amp;feature=youtu.be[/video]

this is the inside of the controller. top center resistors around max speed selector switch. right side ,magnetic sensor speed 0-max setting


----------



## jster1963

I love it and can't wait to see it on a machine.  Please post when you do.  Thanks......


----------



## xalky

I want to build one of these bead rollers pictured here in this video. [video=youtube;8aAOQAGsV38]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aAOQAGsV38&amp;playnext=1&amp;list=PL23F2F722665C  DC07&amp;feature=results_main[/video]

Using that motor. I just have to figure out how i would move the pedal to the floor. It would have to be a wired pedal that can be moved around on the floor. Ideally all the controls would be within arms reach at the top of the machine and a foot pedal on the floor. I think he's using a motor from a treadmill on his in the video.


----------



## jumps4

xalky thats pretty nice and looks fairly easy to build. here is what i know so far
the magnetic speed control could be moved to a foot switch really easy( but the mechanical brake would have to be disabled) and there are only 3 wires from it to the controller to make it reach the floor.
the speed switch works by moving a magnet close and away from it. the closer the magnet is to the sensor the faster it runs up to set max speed
the controller can be mounted anywhere in an enclosure but i'd add a fan, and just 2 wires run to the motor.
after installing it to try on my drill press i'll take it apart and measure all the voltage and resistances so other controls may be used.
so far everything looks easy to modify for other purposes and it costs less than just a dc motor controller
the key thing is available power now at low rpm. i need to check that next
steve


----------



## xalky

I'm looking forward to the verdict...

You can probably increase the bottom end torque by running the motor at its upper range and increasing the pulley size at the drill press.


----------



## jumps4

I decided to install the motor on my 9x20 lathe first and it is just great. for a 9x20 lathe that is manual, it would be perfect for threading because the 9x20 is hard to cut threads on due to the lowest speed being to high and you have to be quick on course threads. I used all the original pulleys and with a motor speed of 600 i get a spindle rpm of 40rpm. at top speed the spindle would be over 4000. the original motor turned 1750 and this motor will turn 4000 according to my tach so with the pulley reductions i have way more torque than before. the motor is very powerful even at low speeds as it would have to be on a sewing machine sewing leather or canvas.
so my conclusion if your looking for a motor in the 3/4hp range is that if you were concidering a vfd and 3 phase or treadmill motor and buying a dc controller "right out of the box this is a total winner" at $129 including shipping new on ebay. the shipping took a week and was from inside the US.
 i also ran the motor at 350 rpm for a half hour and there was no change in temp, then i ran it at 3500 for an hour and it was barely warm.
 I have some modifications to my install to do this was just a quicky to test the motor but it is staying on the lathe and i'm ordering 2 more. 1 for my drill press, it will be great for tapping and one for a high speed spindle for my zx45 mill. i may even get one to use on my sherline cnc mill for more power later.
   I'm going to take the controller out of the enclosure and measure the required voltages and resistance required to make mods and use with mach3 to control speed and direction and build a motor brake circuit with resistor and i will post what i figure out.
steve


[video=youtube;w3DsyHWwPPU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3DsyHWwPPU&amp;feature=youtu.be[/video]


----------



## xalky

Nice Video steve. That was really helpful. Now I can really see the potential in this setup. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.

Marcel


----------



## jster1963

SWEET!  That is my next motor!


----------



## Richardvonmann

What I like is how smooth that motor runs!
And yes, thank you for posting all the information and video's.


----------



## jumps4

the company i ordered from sold out, I wanted 2 more. you dont think a lot of people read this or viewed it on youtube...?
used it a little today but i need to install swarf guards and make a nice panel but i'm still very pleased and it is so quiet even at 3500 rpm
I need to finish my cnc lathe and enclosure now
steve


----------



## Analias

I don't think these are the same folks, but here's another possible source.  I was considering the CS2000 due to it being 220v and my having extra 220v capacity in my shop, but I need to ask them about torque.  

http://drdanessmh.com/indmotors.html

-Freeman


----------



## jumps4

the company has reposted on ebay but the easiest way to find the motor i'm using is to search for "fl-550" on ebay thats the part number
i sent the company an email an now they are also posting under manufacturing and metal working.
here is the new listing http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sew-Green-F...4?pt=BI_Textile_Equipment&hash=item20ce87a5c4
 they also have an 800 number and ask for RJ and say you seen it on ebay
any questions 800-959-4271 
 i'm buying 2 more next month
steve


----------



## jumps4

Analias said:


> I don't think these are the same folks, but here's another possible source.  I was considering the CS2000 due to it being 220v and my having extra 220v capacity in my shop, but I need to ask them about torque.
> 
> http://drdanessmh.com/indmotors.html
> 
> -Freeman



freeman if you do purchase that model will you post any findings you may have on the control electronics. that too looks interesting due to being brushless and possibly being true servo type.
thanks
steve


----------



## Analias

It may be a while before I purchase one.  I did send a request for information, specifically the manual, installation, instructions, and controller schematic.  I don't hold too much hope that I will get a response, but I can hope.


----------



## Analias

Well, surprise... surprise - I got a response.  I was pointed to the link below:

http://www.consew.com/View/Consew-Model-CS1000-CS2000

There is a PDF file link lower down.

UPDATE - I sent a request through the consew site for more information.  Let's see what that nets us.


----------



## bobvia

http://www.consew.com/View/Consew-Model-CS1000-CS2000


Just finished dc conversion this weekend using this motor and controller on my 9x20 lathe. The foot switch on this controller uses a photo resistor and diode for speed control just have to replace the photo resistor with a 25k pot and you can adjust speed from 0 to max set rpm. The motor is easy to mount as it has sever t-slots so mounting can be as simple as as using 1.25" angle and drilling holes to match the existing motor mounting studs.  The controller and motor have have tach leads to control the rpm of the motor, so even at low speeds and heavy cuts the motor runs at a constant speed.  

Mike


----------



## jster1963

Well I just bought the exact motor on ebay a few mins ago.  I may have a few more questions about the setup when it gets here.  I'm going to run my lathe with it.  My treadmill motor and controller are not quite as good as I had hoped.  Wish me luck......


----------



## hendeygeorge

Thanks for all the comments, I know I can use one for my small lathe.


----------



## prmindartmouth

Given the positive sounding reports above, I ordered a similar motor off the Canadian Ebay, namely a:*FESM550N, 110V 3/4HP 550W 3300RPM,Quiet HighTorque DC Servo Motor*

It appears to be basically the same as the FL-550 (fingers crossed) I want to try powering an old Shopsmith that has no motor.



Looks like it will be a very interesting experiment.........thank you to jumps4 !!!


----------



## Smudgemo

Count me in - I ordered one for my Benchmaster horizontal mill that I bought in need of a motor.  I'll report back when I get to work on the installation.


----------



## Smudgemo

....and set up and making chips:



I may need a more solid mount, and I definitely need a larger pulley on the spindle to take advantage of the motor speed, but so far so good.


----------



## jumps4

i'm glad to see this is working out well for everyone I'm really happy with the one i installed on my 9x20 lathe
happy chips
steve


----------



## prmindartmouth

I made a swing arm to carry the magnet as seen here:




That allowed the control box to be separated from the motor. I then adapted the DC motor to an elderly Shopsmith machine that had a bad motor. So far, appears to work great...thank you jumps4. The adaption details are written up on the Shopsmith forum.


----------



## Dr.Fiero

I decided to jump on this bandwagon!  

Just bid on one on eBay...  so if you see one posted by "yuyuping_168" could I ask KINDLY that you not outbid ME???  Please?  Thank you.


edit: forgot to note.  I was going to poke fun at a lousy translation of "treadmill" that came out as "walking foot" - then realized it was a sewing term!  Ooooops!  :O


----------



## Dr.Fiero

Well - THAT auction ran away at the last second, but...

Take a look at this one (I'm going to grab one - it's a buy-it-now!):  http://www.ebay.ca/item/271135801557




...  The motor looks like it would be easy to adapt to a custom bracket (or left as is).  
There  LOOKS like almost t-slots in the extrusion of the housing, and there's  probably screw holes in the face where the belt guard is.  
Or you might just be able to remove the control box and run it (but that'd be boring! )
..............
edit: 3:08PM march 11, order placed.  Let's see how long it takes to make it up to the left coast of Canada!
edit: 12:40PM march 14. Still not marked 'shipped', and no response after 2 messages to the seller. Nervous.
edit: 1:35pm march 14. Finally got a response from the seller saying it has shipped and they will send a tracking number.


----------



## dogcatcher

Thanks for this info, first day on the forum and already buying more toys

Marvin


----------



## fretsman

Quick question about these, and my apologies if I missed it, but are these sewing machine motors able to stay running for long? 

Just wondering if these were actually designed for "burst" type running rather than for long periods of time for milling or lathe use.

Thanks,
Dave


----------



## Dr.Fiero

Looks like a lot of replies were lost here and there - including this thread!

So, to rehash...  I still haven't got my setup from the eBay seller.
They've blatantly lied to me at least twice, saying in emails that they've sent the item.
Well, it finally DID ship out a week after I paid for it (which was about 15 seconds after buying it!).  It's managed to go from Cali to Kentucky in 2 weeks now.  
Maybe if I'm lucky I'll see it in another week or 2?

If you ever have the misfortune to deal with this place (A&M Industrial Supply) - all I can do is wish you best of luck.
Their customer "support" people on the phone suck too.

Sure hope the motor turns out better than all the hassle!  Can you imagine if I had to return it now?!


----------



## Dr.Fiero

Aha!  IT ARRIVED!

Well, looks like a good little unit ... from the minimal testing I did with it anyhow.

Straight forward V pulley.

Has several modes, including soft start on/off, speed set (1600-4800) in 100rpm increments, a synchro input which is meant for sewing (let's you auto stop the needle at the top for threading) but who knows what "we" can use that for....

The removable control looks pretty easy to adapt to somewhere else.  Simple plug with 5 (4?) wires on it.  So extending would be easy. It's all just screwed down in modules.

Only thing I don't like so far is that to put it in reverse you have to push and hold a button the panel for 3 seconds.   Then do it again to go forward....  Bit of a PITA if you were trying to do power tapping with your drill press for example.

Power seems pretty good. And it looks like its got an actual feedback loop, since even at the lowest speed, as I slowed the pulley by hand I could hear it ramping up the power to keep up the speed.

The motor is VERY quiet.

So, with the good torque at low speeds, and the wide rpm range - I think this will work great on my drill press. I'll post pics when I get around to THIS project.


----------



## Dr.Fiero

Oh - and it seems it pointless to look for "Goldstar" as the ad title calls it.  It's NOT the Goldstar (aka LG) that comes to mind.

The manual is obviously a very generic one, and the "Goldstar" word has been stamped onto the cover with a rubber stamp! 
 Quite poorly I might add.


----------



## Voltar1

to get the most from your d.c. motor, select pulleys or a jackshaft that will run your machine at the same as original.
Using a treadmill motor and controller on my Boxford lathe with a jackshaft to replicate the original 1150 rpm motor.
works great!
walter in Alberta!


----------



## timbertoes

wonder how well it would work to convert a 14" wood-bandsaw to metal.  3/4hp might be a tad low?


----------



## Voltar1

timbertoes;114
776 said:
			
		

> wonder how well it would work to convert a 14" wood-bandsaw to metal.  3/4hp might be a tad low?



plenty of power but you really got to slow it down for metal.
used a starter pinion and ring gear from a chevy to slow mine. need a reversing switch if going to cut both ways.


----------



## BKtoys

here are a few pics of my cnc lathe with a consew motor. all i did was take off the origanal switch and replaced it                                  with a 2.5K  pot  
	

		
			
		

		
	





	

		
			
		

		
	
 this is my custom taig cnc lathe i built up from the bottom half of a taig mill. my mill is also a taig and it has a consew on it, but it is direct drive here are some pics. i got my motors from supersewingman on ebay his store is in Lairada Cal


----------



## Sk8ter

jumps4 said:


> i'm glad to see this is working out well for everyone I'm really happy with the one i installed on my 9x20 lathe
> happy chips
> steve



well alright if you would I would like to know..does it have the balls on the lowest speed? also  what do you like or don't like...I may just buy one for the heck of it before they go away....

its really hard to find good quality stuff today reasonably....


Thanks for sharing

Lawrence


----------



## dogcatcher

Could one of these be plugged in to a router speed controller and then control speed, off and on,  etc. all for the router speed control box?


----------



## jumps4

dogcatcher said:


> Could one of these be plugged in to a router speed controller and then control speed, off and on,  etc. all for the router speed control box?



i'm not and electrican but i would think no... the ac is converted to dc of a higher voltage then sent to the motor at up to 160 volts. reversing is done on the dc side of the circuit by just reversing polarity.


"
 well alright if you would I would like to know..does it have the balls on the lowest speed? also  what do you like or don't like...I may just buy one for the heck of it before they go away...."
 at the lowest speeds my motor lacks power but on my lathe i had removed a 1700 motor and installed this one that is about 4000 i think at my lower speeds with my belt reductions there is a lot of power because the motor is still turning around 1500  rpm. for a 100 spindle speed.

steve


----------



## houstonian

What's the verdict?
Are these motors holding up well in the shop, especially on the lathes?  Any troubles appearing like overheating?  I have a Grizzly G4000 with a dead motor and am thinking about replacing it with something like these to get variable speed. My shop is a garage with no A/C or heat.  I'm concerned about dust also.  Any input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Lee


----------



## BKtoys

houstonian said:


> What's the verdict?
> Are these motors holding up well in the shop, especially on the lathes?  Any troubles appearing like overheating?  I have a Grizzly G4000 with a dead motor and am thinking about replacing it with something like these to get variable speed. My shop is a garage with no A/C or heat.  I'm concerned about dust also.  Any input is greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Lee


++hi Lee  i have 2 of these motors one on my lathe and one on my cnc mill . I v'e both of these motors on my equipment for almost 7 or 8  months and i have ran them from 4 to 6 hrs a day. with no problems or over heating

Brian (BKtoys):thinking:))


ps i nave a post on this page with attacments


----------



## houstonian

BKtoys said:


> ++hi Lee  i have 2 of these motors one on my lathe and one on my cnc mill . I v'e both of these motors on my equipment for almost 7 or 8  months and i have ran them from 4 to 6 hrs a day. with no problems or over heating
> 
> Brian (BKtoys):thinking:))
> 
> 
> ps i nave a post on this page with attacments



Thanks for the report Brian.  I appreciate you taking the time.

Lee


----------



## orphan auto

It sounds like these motors are a good idea.

I just went to the  Consew site, it looks like some of the machine stands 
might work for some smaller lathes? and come with the foot speed control, might make 
controling speed easier, rather than going through a bunch of hoops.


----------



## Chrispy1200

Newbie alert !! 

I need to replace the motor on my 9x20 and these motors look like a great option. Since the motors I looked at were 3/4" shafts, can I get away with just boring the original motor pulley ? How about drive belt length ? Some pics of everyone's setups would be very much appreciated.


----------



## Smudgemo

Chrispy1200 said:


> Newbie alert !!
> 
> I need to replace the motor on my 9x20 and these motors look like a great option. Since the motors I looked at were 3/4" shafts, can I get away with just boring the original motor pulley ? How about drive belt length ? Some pics of everyone's setups would be very much appreciated.



Okay, well this isn't a 9x20 and it's rather half-assed, but it is a sewing machine motor and it works fine for now.




-Ryan


----------



## jumps4

Chrispy1200 said:


> Newbie alert !!
> 
> I need to replace the motor on my 9x20 and these motors look like a great option. Since the motors I looked at were 3/4" shafts, can I get away with just boring the original motor pulley ? How about drive belt length ? Some pics of everyone's setups would be very much appreciated.



hi chrispy
here is the build thread for my 9x20 cnc conversion that includes the modifications to use this motor.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...NC-conversion?highlight=9x20+lathe+conversion

steve


----------



## Chrispy1200

jumps4 said:


> hi chrispy
> here is the build thread for my 9x20 cnc conversion that includes the modifications to use this motor.
> 
> http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...NC-conversion?highlight=9x20+lathe+conversion
> 
> steve




Thank you very much ! The pics help a lot. They also create new questions......)

Is there a reason why you decided to turn the motor shaft as opposed to boring the pulley and drilling for a set screw ?

Thanks again !


----------



## jumps4

I like to keep my mods so that what ever I do the machine can be returned to original. since this was the first time I had tried one of these motors and my original motor still worked fine I turned the shaft and cut the keyway.
steve


----------



## calipers

Are you guys still happy with these motors? Any issues? I'm getting ready to order a taig lathe and will probably use one of the motors from this thread.


----------



## jster1963

calipers: If you want to see one in action on a small lathe, take a look at my youtube vid.  I'm no expert and don't have a lot of experience either.  But from my limited experience, it seems to lack power on the low end.  It may be that I have the wrong setup or something, but it seems like I can stall it at low rpm.  Btw, I'm using a round rubber belt and that may be an issue too.

I love the variable speed and it may be that I have to learn how to use this motor correctly.  ps.  I've never had the real "original" type motor so I have nothing to compare this too (except a treadmill motor).

ps. ps.  Any other questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
You can see the motor better at the end of the vid. (it's painted blue)
http://youtu.be/NpXN0RcNkeg


----------



## calipers

jster1963 said:


> calipers: If you want to see one in action on a small lathe, take a look at my youtube vid.  I'm no expert and don't have a lot of experience either.  But from my limited experience, it seems to lack power on the low end.  It may be that I have the wrong setup or something, but it seems like I can stall it at low rpm.  Btw, I'm using a round rubber belt and that may be an issue too.
> 
> I love the variable speed and it may be that I have to learn how to use this motor correctly.  ps.  I've never had the real "original" type motor so I have nothing to compare this too (except a treadmill motor).
> 
> ps. ps.  Any other questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
> You can see the motor better at the end of the vid. (it's painted blue)
> http://youtu.be/NpXN0RcNkeg





Thanks jster1963! I'll be sure to check out your video.


----------



## Smudgemo

calipers said:


> Are you guys still happy with these motors? Any issues? I'm getting ready to order a taig lathe and will probably use one of the motors from this thread.



No real issues, but I replaced the one on my Benchmaster mill with a 1HP Baldor 3phase motor and a VFD because I wasn't in love with it.  It wasn't bad (and maybe this is just more power now), but the current setup is way, way better for my mill.  

I do think the sewing machine motor would make for a mighty fine shop-built belt grinder, so I've got some plans swirling around in my head for a future project.


----------



## Walltoddj

Great idea to use a sewing machine motor variable speed torque and some with not brushes. Looks like a winner to me between $100-$150 for a new motor.

Todd


----------



## dogcatcher

Another motor but more expensive and supposedly a better motor is the Reliable SewQuiet 5000 motor.  Supposedly it doesn't lose any torque power at the lower speeds.   I found one on Amazon for $200.  I am currently using a Consew, but it loses some power at real slow speeds.  The Consew is fine for what I do, but if I go this route again, I will l search more info about the slower speed torque loss.  I would like to have a little more torque at 50RPM.


----------



## ajawamnet

I think the Reliable is the same as the Consew...

Some info on my setup
http://home.comcast.net/~ajawam3/swarf/maxnc.html


----------



## calipers

Thanks ajawamnet. Very cool setup!


----------



## middle.road

*Morning browsing-the-forum Ritual* First cup of coffee and I stumble on this.

I've got a 6" belt / disc grinder in pieces that has a fried motor, a rather large one at that.
Style is similar to this one -=- LINK -=-
What I was thinking was to forgo the disc and mount a motor on that end of the fried motor shaft.

Would one of these SMM's have enough ooomph to run the belt mechanism? 

That would be cool to be able to have that type of speed control.

Thanks,
_Dan


----------



## Mark Lossner

jumps4 said:


> I like to keep my mods so that what ever I do the machine can be returned to original. since this was the first time I had tried one of these motors and my original motor still worked fine I turned the shaft and cut the keyway.
> steve





jumps4 said:


> hi chrispy
> here is the build thread for my 9x20 cnc conversion that includes the modifications to use this motor.
> 
> http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...NC-conversion?highlight=9x20+lathe+conversion
> 
> steve


Steve!
I filed this thread in my beady little brain for "later". Based on your threads, I took the plunge on that little motor for my 9 X 20 lathe. I should not have waited so long. Using that motor was a superb idea! Thank you so much for getting this ball rolling. I will post a thread one my conversion is complete. Thanks again!
Mark


----------



## jumps4

It has been running about 2 years now and I'm still happy with it.
thanks for viewing
Steve


----------



## Mark Lossner

jumps4 said:


> It has been running about 2 years now and I'm still happy with it.
> thanks for viewing
> Steve


Steve, what did you do with that goofy magnetic sensor that was supposed to work with a foot pedal? It looks like you taped a magnet to it and then mounted it inside your control box. By the way, your CNC conversion is very impressive. Everything was well done, very professional looking.

I have figured out a way to replace the magnetic sensor board with a potentiometer and an op amp so that smooth speed control can be managed.

Mark


----------



## jumps4

yes I just taped the magnet to it and use the original speed switch. I have seen where others used a pot there but it wasn't until after I had completed mine and I haven't found a reason to change it.
Steve


----------



## Mark Lossner

Thank you so much for your reply. Now I'm not so sure that it is worth the trouble to do anything different. You've been a tremendous help. If I chase my neighbor away, will you move into their home?


----------



## jumps4

No Sorry
I didn't move fare enough south as it is come winter.
Steve


----------



## Jessica

This thread is quite old,

but in case someone like me is looking at it, the latest incarnation of this on eBay: "Consew-CSM3000-Sewing-Machine-Electric-Servo-Motor"

Works great for my Shop-Task 12-21!

You can actually reverse this easily without using the menu by crossing the black and red pair (2 of 3 motor coil drive wires,) then the yellow and brown pair (2 of 3 phase hall effect sensor wires) - I used a 4PDT switch to do the job. Be sure to bring the motor down to stop before reversing it, as the controller will instantly reverse the motor, but it is pretty violent.

A 1K pot works just as well as the 2.5K to replace the now magnetic speed control lever. The speed control uses a 2 to 4.6V signal, below about 1.8 to 1.9V the motor stops. From 2v to 4.1 the speed ramps linearly. The speed control lever has a +5, control and Ground wire. you can use a DMM to figure out which is which when you open it up.


----------



## MarkM

Alot of Taig and sherlne owners are using the consew motors as well as Yuma sewing machine motors.  I have to say on a Stuart Andrews aftermarket Taig frame these motors look to be the bees knees.  Cutting steel like you would never think possible out of a modified Taig.  They seem to be proven on the Taigs.  I am considering one to make a planer/chipper knife and contemplating direct mounting or using a pulley.


----------



## OSidat

Jessica said:


> This thread is quite old,
> 
> but in case someone like me is looking at it, the latest incarnation of this on eBay: "Consew-CSM3000-Sewing-Machine-Electric-Servo-Motor"
> 
> Works great for my Shop-Task 12-21!
> 
> You can actually reverse this easily without using the menu by crossing the black and red pair (2 of 3 motor coil drive wires,) then the yellow and brown pair (2 of 3 phase hall effect sensor wires) - I used a 4PDT switch to do the job. Be sure to bring the motor down to stop before reversing it, as the controller will instantly reverse the motor, but it is pretty violent.
> 
> A 1K pot works just as well as the 2.5K to replace the now magnetic speed control lever. The speed control uses a 2 to 4.6V signal, below about 1.8 to 1.9V the motor stops. From 2v to 4.1 the speed ramps linearly. The speed control lever has a +5, control and Ground wire. you can use a DMM to figure out which is which when you open it up.



Jessica,  Thank you for sharing your insight into modding the consew connections.
I have another chinese model which is very similar to the consew CSM-1000/2000 series, albeit my controller has a dedicated tactical push button to change the direction of the motor, so I guess I do not need to mod the circuit for reversing the direction.   However, since I had been looking up the addition of a Potentiometer as a speed control,  I had been reading up various posts about it.  Folks have modded this consew and similar motors and posted results on various forums since 2008 or so.    One common comment on all Pot adaptations was using a 25K Pot.

Now I have tried a couple of versions and do face a common problem in all.  The larger the POT resistance, the longer the controller requires to come out of its error display.  Secondly,  the range of turn is possibly 30 percent on all pots from motor start to maxing out in speed.

I cut out and isolated the original Hall-effect sensor circuit and measured it's resistance without it being connected to any part of the controller.  I have a Red, Black and White wire on my specific model, where Red is positive, Black is ground and white is "Out".   The sensor gives a idle state resistance of around 5.5K ohms.   I am not an electronics person, but to me, this is indicative that when the motor/ controller set up is connected in its original form, with the foot pedal speed control assembly,  the controller is getting a feedback from the foot pedal sensor of having approximately 5.5K resistance.

So, on my modification, I used a 5K Pot to have a variable speed control.  When I used it as is, the controller digital display shows an error at start up. As I turn the Pot about 30 percent through its range, the error disappears and the motor starts.  By the time I reach about 60 percent of turning the knob,  the motor speed max out.     So, taking queue from the Hall sensor resistance reading, I added a 5K fixed resistor to the black wire which in my adaptation is connected at position 1 of the POT to give me clockwise speed increment.   This resulted in making the start error go away, and now the motor starts after just a fractional turn of the knob.    But it is still maxing out in motor speed as I reach at around 60 percent of the turn.

I am not sure, if this partial usage of the Pots full rotation is normal or am I doing something wrong here.

I have my Red wire connected to POT 3, Black to POT 1 with a 5K added, and White is on the POT 2 Wiper connection.

Any insight would be extremely helpful.


----------



## Jessica

Hi OSidat,

The Hall sensor doesn't actually mimic a Pot, rather it is more like an OP amp. You cannot measure the output resistance with a DMM without a bit more cleverness.  Its output resistance is a few to tens of ohms depending on the precise model. I don't know the precise model they are using but it is similar to an Allegro Micro systems  A1308KUA-1-T. I actually worked at Allegro many years ago on Hall sensor products as my first engineering job!

Just as a basic check, When using a Pot, be sure one end of the Pot is connected to the sensor +5 and the other end is connected to sensor ground. The wiper goes to what was the hall sensor output. You must disconnect the Hall sensor output also. If it is in parallel, weird things will happen.

Really the best thing is a Pot with an op amp buffer, but a low value Pot works well on my model without errors. I also used a non-inductive Pot, but only because that is what I had in the junk box. I am not sure if a wire wound pot would be a problem, but  because the original sensor is an op amp like output, I would expect some potential trouble.

The funny behavior you see is probably due to the finite input resistance of the controller circuit interacting with the way way higher resistance of the pot vs. what the hall sensor output acts like. Further if there is any sort of captive input filter in the controller, the longer delay with higher pot resistance is expected. Similarly, if too low a Pot value is used, the current draw from 5V would be much to high, and it would not work properly. 

Try a 1K pot, or, lacking that, you could try lacking a 1k pot or an op amp in your hand would be to drive the speed sensor line with a variable power supply through a 100 ohm resistor. Tie the power supply negative to the negative of the sensor. Vary the voltage from 0 to 4.5V and see how the motor speed changes. It should be zero up to some threshold, then ramp fairly linearly to the max set speed if it is set up like the one I have.


----------



## C-Bag

Except for the electrical figuring this looks like a wonderful problem solver for my 9x20 and some other projects like for my sheetmetal beader. Thanks for reviving this old thread Jessica. I'd never seen it before.


----------

