# 2.2kw Vfd/3 Phase 3hp Motor



## kingmt01 (Dec 16, 2015)

I bought a mill with a 3 phase motor:220v, 60Hz, 8.9a, YCF 2.2-4 

I'll be powering it from 220v single phase. & my power actually runs around 240v+.

I also bought a VFD from eBay
http://r.ebay.com/b59D0p

The manual for the VFD is here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B49xwe9ffk3fZ3VWR3NHMjB6VkU/view?pli=1

Reading the manual I'm finding there is much of it over my head. Would there be any of you that are knowledgeable with these that would be willing to help me program it? I have no idea what would be a good starting point & stopping point when programming the ramp up or down voltage & Hz. Breaking out any of these things that look important. Also should I use the VFD or the machines switch for reversing the motor? 

I can handle the writing part.


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## JimDawson (Dec 16, 2015)

kingmt01 said:


> I bought a mill with a 3 phase motor:220v, 60Hz, 8.9a, YCF 2.2-4
> 
> I'll be powering it from 220v single phase. & my power actually runs around 240v+.
> 
> ...




The Haunyang manual is a poor translation at best and difficult to wade through.  There are a few parameters that you must set to get going.

I'm going from memory on this so I may have missed a parameter, it's been a while since I set up a Haunyang.
Motor Voltage = 220 [per motor nameplate]
Motor Current = 9.8 [per motor nameplate]
Base Frequency  = 60 [factory default is 50 as I remember]
Motor Poles = [2 for a 3450 RPM motor] or [4 for a 1725 RPM motor]
Max Frequency = 60 [to start with]
The accel and decel ramps are set to 30 if I remember correctly.  You can leave them at the factory default until you get it going.
Accel Ramp = 3
Decel Ramp = 5  [2.5 if you purchased a braking resistor]

Run from the keypad until you get everything running smoothly [factory default]

Yes, use the VFD for FOR/OFF/REV.  You can wire the original mill switch to the control terminals for this, and ONLY to the control terminals, no power.  Connect U,V,W terminals on the VFD directly to the motor.  Provide a means of disconnecting the VFD from power.  This could be as simple as a wall plug, or a disconnect switch.  Make sure everything is grounded properly to the ground lugs.
.
.


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## mksj (Dec 16, 2015)

How do you want to wire it 2 wire or 3 wire, momentary or sustained type of switches or use the existing control switches. If the latter need to know the switch type. These are very common VFDs, the programming variables have been previously outlined, but we can provide you with suggestions for your setup. All control voltages are low voltage and only require 18-24 AWG wire.  VFD to the motor cable should probably should be at least 14 AWG, short runs can be unshielded, otherwise shielded for longer runs. 

The motor needs to be straight wired to the VFD, the VFD needs to control rotation. Assume your motor is a 4 pole ~1800 RPM model?


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## johnnyc14 (Dec 16, 2015)

I installed a 3 kw Huanyang VFD on my mill, I'm sure all the settings will be similar. Here is a link to the settings I used. I removed the touch pad/display from the unit and mounted it on the outside of the enclosure as was suggested by Ironmonger.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/thre...-phase-to-220-volt-3-phase.33103/#post-279336

Finished product looks like this.


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## kingmt01 (Dec 16, 2015)

This is my mill: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=100-1588&PMPXNO=954170&PARTPG=INLMK3

This is the name plate of the motor.


 





Pigtail they provide appears to be about 14AWG but I haven't actually looked that close yet.

I have 2 lines, neutral, & ground running to it. I'll be taping one of the lines to power my power feed & a couple of transformers for lights & DRO. 

I'm not planning on adding any extra external controls. The VFD already has a pot switch built into it that I was planning on using. I will probably remove the forward/reverse switch since you guys advise not wiring through it.


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## JimDawson (Dec 16, 2015)

JimDawson said:


> Motor Current = 9.8 [per motor nameplate]



Correction to my above typo^^^^
Motor Current = *8.9 *[per motor nameplate]

If you want, you can use the existing switch.  You just can't use it as a power switch on the motor.  It will work fine as the VFD control side switch.  You would disconnect all of the existing wiring to it and use a 3 conductor cable to the VFD control terminals.


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## kingmt01 (Dec 16, 2015)

I knew what you meant.

Seems like there is 10 wires in that thing & is located above my head. I'll be happy to just bypass it for now.

For something made in Asia I'm 6' & all the controls are uncomfortably over my head. I'm going to put a platform around it. I think my uncle kept a milk create at his. A pneumatic drawbar maybe a future upgrade.


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## kingmt01 (Dec 16, 2015)

One thing I had not considered was noise that it might put off. I hadn't really planed to put this in a enclosure but I do plan on building a DRO for the machine. Do these put off any more noise then the motor is putting off? The single phase motor 1HP on my small mill has the DROs control box mounted right against it & doesn't seem to affect it.


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## JimDawson (Dec 17, 2015)

If you're talking about electrical noise, yes is a bit noisy.  Keep your cable runs as short as practical, and make sure your grounds are good on both the VFD and the DRO.  Locate the VFD cables well away from the DRO cables, like on opposite sides of the machine, and you should be fine.


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## mksj (Dec 17, 2015)

This post may be worth reviewing, also has parameter file for this VFD, you would need to update for your motor specs.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/huanyang-vfd-on-a-bridgeport-clone.36144/


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## JimDawson (Dec 17, 2015)

This is how I mounted my VFD, maybe not the best but it works for me.  I'm used to reaching into this area to operate the motor switch so it seemed logical.


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## kingmt01 (Dec 17, 2015)

How high is that. That is where the switch is located now but it seems high to be comfortable. My little mill I mounted the start/stop switch under the table. I can't remember if that was where it already was out just where I put it but I remember having to remount it & I know I had to drill a new hole in the casting to move the wires.


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## JimDawson (Dec 17, 2015)

It's about 6ft off of the floor maybe a bit more.  It's the normal location for most full size knee mill switches.  After about 45 years of running these type of machines, for me it just seems natural to reach into that area.  It's really a matter of what you are used to.


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## kingmt01 (Dec 17, 2015)

I agree. Maybe I spent to much time making things more ergonomic. I like to be comfortable as convent when I'm working. Most of the controls are reaching up anyways so that one isn't that big of a deal.


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## kingmt01 (Dec 23, 2015)

Well my VFD seems to be held up in NY for some reason. Tracking has showed it there for a week.


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## kingmt01 (Dec 26, 2015)

I got my VFD today. I'm thinking about hooking the rotary switch. I'm a little cloudy on the instructions.













So close DCM & FOR to run it forward. Close DCM, FOR, & REV to run it in reverse?


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## JimDawson (Dec 26, 2015)

DCM+FOR = FOR
DCM+REV = REV
DCM+ . . = OFF


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## kingmt01 (Dec 26, 2015)

Thanks. The instructions are pretty good but that was confusing.


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## kingmt01 (Dec 26, 2015)

Two more questions for now. Is frequency tracking a good thing?

The long slot at the bottom has a long rubber piece




Are you just supposed to poke the wire through that rubber?


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## JimDawson (Dec 26, 2015)

I think frequency tracking refers to controlling the VFD output with a separate external device.  Probably not useful in most applications, would be useful to slave the VFD to another motor, like in a multiple belt conveyor system to keep them running at the same speed.

Yes, you just slit the grommet and stuff the wires through, a crappy system but common


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## kingmt01 (Dec 26, 2015)

With frequency tracking enabled it steps the motor up in stages. It runs at a certain Hz then jumped to another then to fill speed. It doest seem as smooth to me as it just steadily increasing the Hz till full speed. It is a little noisy composites to not using it also. It even seems smoother to just start it at full frequency then to use it.


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## JimDawson (Dec 26, 2015)

Ahhhh.... That is called skip frequency in other VFDs, I have not seen an advantage in any install I have done.


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## kingmt01 (Dec 26, 2015)

OK

Unless someone else tells me better I'll turn it off. It sounds kinda rough starting up anyways.

This big motor send way another then my little mill with the 1HP motor. I was shocked. It runs really quiet. There seems to be extra vibration between 45Hz-55Hz. Below & above seem smooth all the way up to 80Hz which is as fast as I've ran it.


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## kingmt01 (Dec 27, 2015)

I actually read it right the first time. DCM, FOR, & REV have to all be closed at the same time for reverse. DCM & FOR have to be closed for forward. When you open DCM & FOR the motor stops & breaks if you have that setting programmed.


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## JimDawson (Dec 27, 2015)

Hmmmm....That's a little different.  I guess I should read the book before I open my mouth


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## mksj (Dec 27, 2015)

kingmt01 said:


> DCM, FOR, & REV have to all be closed at the same time for reverse. DCM & FOR have to be closed for forward. When you open DCM & FOR the motor stops & breaks if you have that setting programmed



It all depends on if you are using 2 or 3 wire and how you program the inputs PD044-PD049. It should run as Jim described with the factory defaults, but if you use 2 wire with PD044=01 and PD045=05, then D1 is run and D2 determines the direction it will run as you describe. The 3 wire should be able to use momentary switches, (i.e. triggered), 2 wire would need maintained.

The vibration in the 45-55Hz range may be due to a balance problem in the head and a resonate frequency. This was described in another posting and he was able to balance the rotation sheaves. 

Mark


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## kingmt01 (Dec 27, 2015)

There is some reason I didn't go with D1, D2, D3, & DCM. I need to revisit that tho because it would make the momentary switches work easier.

I figured it was the harmonic resonance & that was just the right frequency for it to be at its worse. I may one day get around to testing the spindle at a different speed to see if that frequency changes.


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## kingmt01 (Dec 29, 2015)

mksj

I went back & tried it again but it still didn't work right but using only D1 to DCM or D2 to DCM with those values programed works like I want it. I can now easily hook up two momentary switches along with the rotary switch & it works as I want.

Thanks for encouraging me to go back & try it again.  I had figured out how to do it the other way but this is much better.

Jim it appears we may have both been right.


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