# Grizzly G640x. Anti-hijack post.



## NC Rick (May 19, 2021)

@rabler @Dabbler , okay just posting that made me smile!  I really appreciated both of your comments regarding the Grizzly vertical band saws in the “Need a Lathe Now!” thread.  In my usual manner of getting off on tangents, i realized i should not respond in such off-topic ways.  I really enjoy getting to learn from all the knowledge on this forum, I get carried off sometimes…

i am really happy with my g640 and mentioning what i found to be “shortcomings“ for me, you both offered some valuable input.  Im hoping to pick your brains some more about these Grizzly saws.
I did replace the table insert, but im not convinced the “zero-clearance” aluminum insert I’m using is ideal. 

 I for sure am interested in the prospects of reprogramming the VFD to slow down the speed of the saw some.  

Looking inside the first time, i see a commercial “Delta” VFD for which there may be support available for.  Once again, i feel like this machine was a good value. My VFD seems to be missing a user interface.  Any tips on how to proceed on the programing would be really cool!  Im interested to hear what speeds and saw blades folks are using as i use mine for general utility and normally don't like to change the saw bands more than i have too.


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## JimDawson (May 19, 2021)

You can most likely buy the programmer for that.

What is the VFD model number?


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## Mitch Alsup (May 19, 2021)

My Grizzly 14" bandsaw has VFD, but I generally only run it at 2 speeds: 150 fpm for steel and 300 for aluminum.


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## NC Rick (May 19, 2021)

JimDawson said:


> You can most likely buy the programmer for that.
> 
> What is the VFD model number?





Im going to guess they would refer to this as a VFD “M”. I’m not sure.


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## NC Rick (May 19, 2021)

Mitch Alsup said:


> My Grizzly 14" bandsaw has VFD, but I generally only run it at 2 speeds: 150 fpm for steel and 300 for aluminum.


i think 150 or even higher is fine for mild steel but stainless or some other hard to cut steels would be better on the saw at 60 rpm or so.  I’m using a good bi-metal Starrett and have cut some stainless with it at 100 rpm but i don’t think that is ideal.  I don’t really know for sure.


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## Dabbler (May 19, 2021)

@NC Rick the user manual for your VFD is here:



			https://www.automatedpt.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/VFD-M-User-Manual.pdf


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## JimDawson (May 19, 2021)

Here ya go  https://www.amazon.com/Delta-VFD-PU06-Digital-Operator-Keypad/dp/B013GTX7ZG

Delta part number PU06


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## rabler (May 19, 2021)

Much better at 1/5 pricing:  lc-m02e  $30
I believe the other one may be thefancier version that can be used to copy parameters between VFDs: PU-06 $88


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## rabler (May 19, 2021)

Interestingly, the current document on the Grizzly website, for models since 12/20, shows a Teco L510s model vfd, which includes a keypad.  It looks like the speed display is directly reading the potentiometer voltage, so defaulting it to the metal range is not a vfd programmable function.


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## rabler (May 19, 2021)

NC Rick said:


> @rabler @Dabbler , okay just posting that made me smile!  I really appreciated both of your comments regarding the Grizzly vertical band saws in the “Need a Lathe Now!” thread.  In my usual manner of getting off on tangents, i realized i should not respond in such off-topic ways.  I really enjoy getting to learn from all the knowledge on this forum, I get carried off sometimes…
> 
> i am really happy with my g640 and mentioning what i found to be “shortcomings“ for me, you both offered some valuable input.  Im hoping to pick your brains some more about these Grizzly saws.
> I did replace the table insert, but im not convinced the “zero-clearance” aluminum insert I’m using is ideal.
> ...


I see a copper line, compressed air?


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## Dabbler (May 19, 2021)

I use the Teco 510 models on all my 3PH motors.  I like their wide range of options  quality, and price - and I've had a few shorts and mishaps, but the Tecos are still working.


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## NC Rick (May 20, 2021)

rabler said:


> I see a copper line, compressed air?


Yes sir!  When cutting to a layout line it can really help keep the chips clear of the marking.  I just use a small ball valve on the back side of the upper guide.  It only takes a small amount of air.


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## NC Rick (May 20, 2021)

Dabbler said:


> I use the Teco 510 models on all my 3PH motors.  I like their wide range of options  quality, and price - and I've had a few shorts and mishaps, but the Tecos are still working.


Both my Mill and Lathe, 2hp and 5hp respectively have been running on Teco drives i installed.  They have been reliable for years.  The pictured Delta drive was installed by the manufacturer of the saw.  I am happy to see that it is a quality brand and one which seems to be suppoted.


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## NC Rick (May 20, 2021)

JimDawson said:


> You can most likely buy the programmer for that.
> 
> What is the VFD model number?


We will find out!  Thanks for the idea and questions.  I did some more research based on what you posted and found a control panel online at Wolf automation for $40.  It is on order and my fingers are crossed!


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## rabler (May 20, 2021)

NC Rick said:


> We will find out!  Thanks for the idea and questions.  I did some more research based on what you posted and found a control panel online at Wolf automation for $40.  It is on order and my fingers are crossed!


You'll likely get an email from Rozita @ Wolf asking if it is OK to process your order given a substantial lead time on that part.


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## rabler (May 20, 2021)

Dabbler said:


> I use the Teco 510 models on all my 3PH motors.  I like their wide range of options  quality, and price - and I've had a few shorts and mishaps, but the Tecos are still working.


I have a Teco on my Monarch lathe and have been quite happy with it.  I was actually a bit disappointed that my G0640X bandsaw is old enough to have the delta VFD and not the Teco.


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## rabler (May 20, 2021)

NC Rick said:


> Im interested to hear what speeds and saw blades folks are using as i use mine for general utility and normally don't like to change the saw bands more than i have too.


Rick,
Obviously I'm posting all sorts of comments, hope I'm not overwhelming your thread!  That said, I'd be interested in band saw blade options too.  I don't change blades if I can at all avoid it.  The blade I currently have on mine is not a good blade in that the joint does not line up well and makes a significant jump whenever it passes.  I just yesterday to make a 6" cut in 1" thick 1018, in the process of making more t-nuts for my K&T.  My vague recollection is that Grizzly did not have very good selection of blades for this saw, and that I found the current blade on Amazon marketplace.

The saw seems to have plenty of power, and cuts true.  But a better blade would be the biggest improvement for me.  If you have any ideas in this area I'd like to hear them.   Most of my cuts are straight lines so I lean toward fairly wide blades.  McMaster has 131.5" blades, they generally are not the cheapest source but tend toward decent quality, I haven't tried them.   I'd appreciate sharing ideas on this.


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## NC Rick (May 20, 2021)

@rabler ,
I totally appreciate your comments!  Vertical saws are not the most popular subject yet my 640x is one of the most used tools in my shop.  There was close to nothing on the interwebs regarding this saw or any small metal working saws.  I got the “convertible“ machine because of the price point and throat width.  i have no regrets.

i have really only run 1/2” wide blades of the same thickness while having additional ones in stock. With the 1/2” blades, i am able to change the blade quickly without making any adjustments to the saw guide wise or tension wise.

the best experience i have had was ordering directly from Starrett who makes up anything you want and at the same or lower cost than McMaster Carr.  I think i ordered all “Pro-Die”.  The 8-10 tpi lives in the machine and is holding up great.  I have a 6TPI in the 4x6.  If i need to cut wud, i change blades or if i have a big chunk of material like you cut, i change out to a lower tpi.  I ruin my blades cutting thin material with too course a blade whene it is “one quick part”. Invariably, that strips teeth…

i have some 1/4” blades for contours but the few i have cut, i haven’t bothered with the machine changes and just kept cutting out little wedges.    
on mild steel, cutting dry, 150 to 175 seems like a good ft/min.  Because i don't run a low enough tooth count even cutting aluminum i don’t run much over 300ft/min.  A couple times i installed the wud cutting blade from Grizzly and changed the pulley.  plywud cuts fantastically with so much less dust than a table saw, i never get mine out.  Wud working for me is making a shelf for the shop or something similar


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## rabler (May 20, 2021)

NC Rick said:


> @rabler ,
> I totally appreciate your comments!  Vertical saws are not the most popular subject yet my 640x is one of the most used tools in my shop.  There was close to nothing on the interwebs regarding this saw or any small metal working saws.  I got the “convertible“ machine because of the price point and throat width.  i have no regrets.
> 
> i have really only run 1/2” wide blades of the same thickness while having additional ones in stock. With the 1/2” blades, i am able to change the blade quickly without making any adjustments to the saw guide wise or tension wise.
> ...


Same here, right price point.  I had looked at metal-only saws and this was the best option I found at the time.  I actually have another bandsaw set up for wood that is connected to a dust collector, although it hasn't seen much use recently.


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