# 1994 Enco 110-1340 (13 X 40) lathe.



## Zigeuner

Back around the early 1990's I decided to get into Hobby metal workiing. I had been fabricating things and welding them for many years but I decided that a lathe would be an excellent item to add to my complement of tools. 

With that in mind, I started looking in my local area, Sacramento, CA, for something made in America. Remember, this was before the advent of eBay and the height of the internet. There was one local machinery seller who handled used equipment. He did indeed have some lathes, some of them were even made in the U.S. Sadly, they and the other Chinese and Taiwanese lathes that he had were obviously totally worn out. I'm talking about dings, dents, cracks, missing parts and grime with obvious wear in the bed area. He wasn't into machine restoration. He would buy machines, put them on the floor at inflated prices and then just stand back. He had nothing in his store for less than $2,000 either, and it wasn't looking good. 

After about a year of frustration looking at ads for auctions and considering shpping costs, I looked at an Enco ad. At that time, they still had their brick and mortar stores. The closest one was San Jose, CA. I took my pickup truck and wife and we took a trip to San Jose. 

The one I liked the most, mainly since it wasn't too big to fit in the truck, and also because if was in my price range ($2,500 max.) was their 13 X 40" model 110-1340. It came in the crate for $2,300 plus tax out the door. It had the typical complement of accessories like D1-4, 3 jaw and 4 jaw chucks, steady and follow rests, lantern toolpost, back plate, 2 hp single phase motor, etc. 

Fortunately, my 1/2 ton Chevy pickup had been fitted with 3/4 ton springs because the crate weighed 1,500 pounds. When they loaded the crate onto the truck, it went down about three inches but we made it home. 

So far, it's been a good machine. It has 8 speeds and has done all manner of tasks for me. I ran it all the way up to this year and then finally added a two-axis Sino DRO from CDCO tool Co. This particular lathe is almost identical to the present day Grizzly 13-1/2 X 40" (G4016). They apparently have an additional 1/2" of swing but in all other respects, it appears identical, even up to the design of the controls and the specifications. 

Changes I've made other than the DRO were to raise the bed of the lathe 3" on some square steel tubing risers that I fabricated. That enables me more easily to clean out the chips from under the bed. It also made it easier to work with the machine since I found it too low initially. I also added a Phase II QCTP from Enco about a month after I bought the lathe. I had trouble with the lantern toolpost. 

I wish I could have found a lathe that was made in the U.S. but it wasn't to be, When I bought my Webb mill in 2009, there was a nice Monarch 10EE in the same warehouse but the broker wanted $4,000 and it was sort of out of the question since I was already hauling the mill home. 

Anyway, I can recommend this machine highly. It's done everything I ever needed and nothing has ever broken. 

Thanks for listening. 

Some pictures. 

Before the DRO but after the 3" risers. 




3" risers in place.




With DRO.


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## Fuzzbean

I like that lathe... the classic-style QC gearbox levers and the rounded face they swing over, and the traditional-style handles on the cross and compound slides. Also the simple, uncluttered speed change levers. Unlike some current Enco lathes, the tailstock "leans" towards the headstock as it should to minimize barrel extension when turning between centers. I wish I had the money and space to get the current version from Grizzly or Birmingham.


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## Amigo

Zigeuner, the risers look like a very good idea. I too have found that if a person is going to have only one primary lathe the 13 x 40 or 14 x 40 gear head is tough to beat.
IIRC, the Enco Asian products back then came from Taiwan which were pretty decent quality.


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## Zigeuner

Good comments from all responders above. Yeah, the Enco is a good standard, no frills unit. I notice that they are apparently still available from Enco and at a similar price to 15 years ago. 

Jet makes a nice product. They spend a bit more time on finish than some and they are a bit pricier as well but a very good unit. 

I wish I had installed a DRO a long time ago. It does simpilify things a bit. The only negative issue on the SINO unit from CDCO ($504 delivered) is that it has 5 digits to the right of the decimal place and there's no way to get rid of them in the setup. I'm gong to just cover the last one with tape. 

I could have gotten a DRO on my Enco lathe when I bought the one I have but unfortunately, they wanted another $1,000 so it was out of my budget. I'm not sorry I waited, however, since the present-day units are better than the ones from years ago. 

So far, there's not much I've found that I can't do on the Enco. One of my first tasks years ago was to make a Harley sidecar axle. I had a broken one and it still took me a week to figure it out since it had a taper on one end and two threads. Nevertheless, I got it done. The ultimate test was that I used it on the sidecar for nearly ten years and the wheel never fell off. LOL. 

Even though room is at a premium where I work in my barn if I ever find a good U.S. Made to restore, I'd still keep the Enco. I'm so used to it, I'd miss it if I didn't have it. 

We had one of our first nice days here in Sacramento County this year, High of 67 deg. F. Time to dust off the sidecar rig and go for a ride.


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## Amigo

Zigeuner, is it possible to go into "set-up" on the CDCO Sino DRO and change resolution from 1um (.00005") to 5um (.0002")?

Five digits to the right of the decimal point would be quite distracting to me too. I have thought of trying one of those units, but not if the resolution is permanently set to 1um on all, lathe &amp; mill 2 axis units.


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## Zigeuner

Amigo link=topic=982.msg4772#msg4772 date=1297582037 said:
			
		

> Zigeuner, is it possible to go into "set-up" on the CDCO Sino DRO and change resolution from 1um (.00005") to 5um (.0002")?
> 
> Five digits to the right of the decimal point would be quite distracting to me too. I have thought of trying one of those units, but not if the resolution is permanently set to 1um on all, lathe &amp; mill 2 axis units.



I've asked others and that seems to be the way they are. The manual is written in "Pidgen English" (sic) unfortunately so there may be something in there about changing to fewer decimals but I can't find it. 

I did manage to find the setup area to change from "Mill" to "Lathe". There is also a setup for "Grinder" so it will work for all three types of machines. 

At first, I couldn't make it read properly on the X-Axis (cross slide on lathe) so that I could dial in diameter reduction. (cross slide moves 50% of indicated reading to allow for diameter reduction, sometimes called the "radius versus diameter issue".) This was corrected by changing what SINO calls "resolution" on the X-Axis from 5 to 10. Now, when I dial in .00X on the DRO, the cross slide moves only half that so that the cut will be correct. In tne meantime, tape is cheap. LOL. 

There may be some other DRO's in a higher price bracket that have a more pleasing number of decimals. My Mill has a Mitutoyo 2-Axis DRO that cost close to $900, almost double of what the SINO was. For the money, the SINO is an excellent bargain at $504 with shipping included. 

For the record, the Mitutoyo manual is written perfect English. However, it's aimed at a PHD's in computer technology. It's got 4 digits to the right of the decimal and I suppose there's something in the manual that tells how to change the resolution but I haven't yet deciphered that one either. 

I wish these companies could hire some good, English speaking technical writers to make the manuals more user-friendly. 

Regards.


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## Amigo

Zigeuner, I read in your post that the resolution I asked about is able to be changed.
"This was corrected by changing what SINO calls "resolution" on the X-Axis from 5 to 10."
However, I gather that regardless of 1um, 5um, or 10um(microns) resolution, the number of digits to the right of the decimal remains five. 
Did I "gather" correctly? 

"I wish these companies could hire some good, English speaking technical writers to make the manuals more user-friendly. "
I wish the same. 
There presently may be a conundrum in that they don't know what they don't know. They may think their English is pretty good.

Thank you for your reply.


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## HSS

Edit: screen acting crazy couldn't type.


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## Zigeuner

Amigo link=topic=982.msg4786#msg4786 date=1297620745 said:
			
		

> Zigeuner, I read in your post that the resolution I asked about is able to be changed.
> "This was corrected by changing what SINO calls "resolution" on the X-Axis from 5 to 10."
> However, I gather that regardless of 1um, 5um, or 10um(microns) resolution, the number of digits to the right of the decimal remains five.
> Did I "gather" correctly?
> 
> "I wish these companies could hire some good, English speaking technical writers to make the manuals more user-friendly. "
> I wish the same.
> There presently may be a conundrum in that they don't know what they don't know. They may think their English is pretty good.
> 
> Thank you for your reply.



Hello, 

Yes, the resolution to which you refer should be a way of changing the number of decimal places. That's probably the basic definition of resolution including perhaps making that last decimal go from 0 to 9, something that I haven't yet figured out on my Mitutoyo and which I don't think I will be able to on the SINO. 

That said, the other um resolution to which SINO refers in their manual has to do with how far either scale (X or Y or X or Z depending upon whether we are discussing a mill or a lathe) will move for each thousandth displayed. There are several settings from which to choose but I chose "10" for the lathe X scale which gives me the correct reading. That will indicate .001 for an actual .0005 movement. I left Z at a setting of 5 which is 1:1. Beyond that, the manual is a loss, being rather close to unintelligible. 

Here's a drawing I found on the internet somewhere......


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## HSS

My Dro has 5 after the decimal and the only thing digit 4 and 5 does is flash numbers while the machine is running. Nothing intelligable, just nervous numbers. The manual also is written in Chinglish and also unintelligable. 

Pat


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## Amigo

Patrick & Zigeuner:
Thank you both!!
My concerns have been fully answered.


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## efmartin55

I'm new to this forum so if i'm in the wrong section for this please let me know.  I just acquired a Enco 110-1340, a early 1990's model, looks complete with the standard additions.  My question involves moving this machine.  Can any one tell me how heavy it is, should I brake it down to smaller chunks ie, take it completly apart. Or maybe just take it off the base to transport it home.........other side of town.  I wouldn't mind taking parts off it just so I can repaint it and get it back to an earlier state of condition.
I thought I would take it off the stand using a motor jack, set it on some skate rolls to get it out the door and into the yard, and then lift it with the engine jack to pickup.
Again, any suggestions from those who have moved one like this and does anyone know the weight as it sits there, or a close number, I'm guessing 1300 lbs.
thanks in advance for the help!
gene martin, efm


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## Tony Wells

Welcome to the forum, Gene. You're probably not far off with your weight estimate. I used to have a 1983 model12 x 36 Enco similar in construction, and it weighed in around 900 lbs. You could move it in one piece if you have the overhead clearance and lift capability to clear the stand. Otherwise you need to take the lathe off and handle it separately. If you do it in one go, just remember to sling it from high points, as it will be very top heavy, and heavy on the headstock end. Even then, it helps to run the carriage and tailstock to the far right to help balance things out a little. Be sure to lock the tailstock down regardless of moving it or not. Nylon lift straps or slings are the best way to go. There usually is some argument about thins, so I won't tell you not to throw a loop around the spindle right behind the chuck, but I won't tell you not to either. It's my personal belief and experience that on smaller machines it doesn't do any damage, and I have done it before, numerous times. But if you're the least bit concerned that it may, then simply rig it some other way. The further apart the lift points are, the more stable the lift will be. just be sure they won't slip from where you put them.

Have fun and enjoy your new toy!


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## efmartin55

thank you Carl, I haven't identified the method of lifting it yet, probably one of those engine hoists only on steroids you can rent from the equipment company.  as for slinging it, I will look at your method.  It sits just inside a regular door way, in fact the door hits it when you come in it is so close.
I plan to lift it up and roll it through the door, turn it 90 degrees and then lift it into my pickup.  Since it is top heavy I will have to tie it down very securely, I only have about 10 miles to travel so that won't be bad and then my shop has double 4 x 8' doors.
Hope it goes as smooth as this sounds!!!!  Will let you know.
thanks again for the advise.
gene


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## timbertoes

here is how to move/hoist with an engine lift:

Supplies:
(2) 4 foot straps rated for the load. not 6 foot.. (and dont try and wrap to shorten a long strap)
(1) load balancer from Harbor freight. An absolute requirement.

(*) location of straps:
the headstock strap under the bed and behind the lead screws. all the way against the headstock, not more than a few inches away at max.

(*)second strap : will place its self by the load balancer.

(*)engine lift: adjust the overhead arm to the location/bolt hole for the weight. This will give only just enough clearance of the hoist legs widht to place the lathe on the stand, btw.

(*)the balance: tailstock end ever so slightly lower. thats important. because if it gets higher than the headstock, there is always a chance the headstock strap could slip forward toward the tailstock, and that can be a disaster.

(*) orientation: the lathe is oriented in line with the hoist, as is the stand as you approach it.

(*) safety net...lol.............. stout pieces of wood (at least 2x4) across the hoist legs, 
during the lift-off-crate, move, etc. there if you need them.

Also one other thing that really important:
when the crate is delivered, ask the the driver to pallet-jack roll it into your shop, and then lift the crate off of the pallet. the pallet size can cause hassles using the lift to get the pallet removed.
Pay him $20 for his trouble and make a freind you will need later  we needed an auto jack at the other end and a large prybar to help with the pallet jack's capability.


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## timbertoes

Moving a lathe on the floor:

get 8 to 12  of those 1" galvanized water? pipes, 24" long.
crowbar up the end of the lathe/stand, place pipe. repeat other end.
start rolling the lathe and inserting/removing the pipes as you go.

aka "egyptian style"
works like a charm including going around things not just straight


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