# The Monkey's Shop



## zekeymonkey (Oct 28, 2014)

As I mentioned in my introduction I'm in the process, very early process, of building a building to use as a workshop.  This thread will document the build. I'm sure I'll also be asking for opinions about some of the building details too. In fact I already have a few questions I know I'm going to present to the group, but those can wait a few days.

After much debate, I've decided on a 40x64x13 building. Basically, I'm going as big as I can reasonably afford. This size will allow me to wall off part of the building for a fully heated and cooled workshop. The rest of the building will be used as a garage for working on my cars.

Tomorrow is the first of many exciting days to come as the excavator is planning on breaking ground.

I'll post my general building floor plan later to day to see if anyone has some suggestions.


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## Hardly (Oct 28, 2014)

That will be a nice sized building, and I'm sure that you are really going to enjoy it. Can't wait to see some pictures.


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## chuckorlando (Oct 28, 2014)

I'll make a suggestion... Make sure the inner walls are easy to move as our shops have a bad habit of growing on us. One day it's a lathe and the next you got surface grinders and mills and something you aint even sure what the hell it does but it's made from cast iron so you brought it home


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## drs23 (Oct 28, 2014)

zekeymonkey said:


> As I mentioned in my introduction I'm in the process, very early process, of building a building to use as a workshop.  This thread will document the build. I'm sure I'll also be asking for opinions about some of the building details too. In fact I already have a few questions I know I'm going to present to the group, but those can wait a few days.
> 
> After much debate, I've decided on a 40x64x13 building. Basically, I'm going as big as I can reasonably afford. This size will allow me to wall off part of the building for a fully heated and cooled workshop. The rest of the building will be used as a garage for working on my cars.
> 
> ...



Very interested in seeing the floor plan. A photo documentation is probably required here. From bare ground even. :biggrin:


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## zekeymonkey (Oct 28, 2014)

The kids and the dozer are ready for tomorrow.


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## zekeymonkey (Oct 28, 2014)

We spent yesterday afternoon and this afternoon emptying and stripping an old shed that's in the way. You can also some of the trees that must go too.


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## zekeymonkey (Oct 28, 2014)

And here's my basic thoughts for the layout.


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## JimDawson (Oct 28, 2014)

zekeymonkey said:


> The kids and the dozer are ready for tomorrow.


Which one of them is going to run it?:rofl:


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## barlow l (Oct 28, 2014)

How much of the work are you doing yourself? I'm half way into my own build doing it all myself. Sometimes I wonder how nice it would be to pay someone to do these things.


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## GarageGuy (Oct 28, 2014)

40' by 64' ?!?  That's my dream shop!  :thumbsup2:

GG


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## zekeymonkey (Oct 29, 2014)

chuckorlando said:


> I'll make a suggestion... Make sure the inner walls are easy to move as our shops have a bad habit of growing on us. One day it's a lathe and the next you got surface grinders and mills and something you aint even sure what the hell it does but it's made from cast iron so you brought it home



Good point about the inner walls. Any suggestions on the best way to do this?


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## zekeymonkey (Oct 29, 2014)

barlow l said:


> How much of the work are you doing yourself? I'm half way into my own build doing it all myself. Sometimes I wonder how nice it would be to pay someone to do these things.



I'm having the building built with the no insulation or interior finish work. As time permits, I'll finish the interior and install electric. If I had the money, I'd just have someone do that too, but we all know how that goes.


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## zekeymonkey (Oct 29, 2014)

*INSULATION*

I need to decide how I'm going to insulate the building. One option is to have the building built using bookshelf girts at a cost increase of approximately $1200. This would allow the use of standard roll insulation in the walls. Is there a more cost effective method?

As for the roof/ceiling, I'm going to have the building built with vented eaves and a vented ridge. Then, just have blown in insulation on top of the ceiling. Do I need to be concerned condensation from the roofing? Or, is the ventilation enough?


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## rmack898 (Oct 29, 2014)

I did exactly what you are planning and installed bookshelf girts and used standard r-19 batts in my walls. I used white siding tin for my ceiling and r-19 batts above the ceiling. I have a ridge vent and vented soffits and have no problems with condensation. My shop is fairly tight and easy to heat.


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## zekeymonkey (Oct 30, 2014)

Progress is being made on the excavation.




Now, I need to get a contractor to start on the building.

I think I'm going to drop the length to 56'  to leave a little more space around the building. I may also drop the width to 36'.


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## jpfabricator (Oct 30, 2014)

Make your length and width divisable by 3 to save having to rip cut tin.

Jake Parker


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## zekeymonkey (Oct 30, 2014)

After looking at the site, I've decided to reduce the building to 36x56. Below you will see my updated layout.


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## commercialbuilder (Oct 30, 2014)

Just a thought but with the garage side that deep are you planning on having two cars in each bay? You could put three garage doors in the end wall and make the carnage 28' deep and the shop 28' deep also since the shop never is large enough.


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## chuckorlando (Oct 31, 2014)

Well I assume you will frame it and add a ceiling for any a/c portions. If thats the case make the support beams and walls so that they bolt together verse built as one chunk. Then just cut the dry wall at the stud and pull a couple bolts, push the wall back. Never done it just thinking


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## RandyM (Oct 31, 2014)

zekeymonkey said:


> After looking at the site, I've decided to reduce the building to 36x56.



You'll be sorry. I know the space suites you just fine now. But, once you start moving things and in a few short years you'll regret the size reduction. When I built my shop the original plan was 50 x 96. The day I walked in and placed the order it went to 50 x 104. And happy I did it with no regrets, that was 22 years ago.


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## Boswell (Oct 31, 2014)

I did this with my shop. I had a wall that was shared with another space. When it was built, we used Screws for everything and did not put any electrical in the wall. Later when I got my PM45M-CNC I needed more space so I just unscrewed the sheetrock, and the 2x4s and it was like the wall never existed.  I was easily able to reuse all of the materials for other projects. The only inconvenience was not having any electrical in the Temp. wall.



chuckorlando said:


> Well I assume you will frame it and add a ceiling for any a/c portions. If thats the case make the support beams and walls so that they bolt together verse built as one chunk. Then just cut the dry wall at the stud and pull a couple bolts, push the wall back. Never done it just thinking


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## RandyM (Oct 31, 2014)

Boswell said:


> I did this with my shop. I had a wall that was shared with another space. When it was built, we used Screws for everything and did not put any electrical in the wall. Later when I got my PM45M-CNC I needed more space so I just unscrewed the sheetrock, and the 2x4s and it was like the wall never existed.  I was easily able to reuse all of the materials for other projects. The only inconvenience was not having any electrical in the Temp. wall.



Question, if you were planning on taking the wall down from the beginning, why did you put it up in the first place? Just trying to get my head around this one.


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## zekeymonkey (Oct 31, 2014)

RandyM said:


> You'll be sorry. I know the space suites you just fine now. But, once you start moving things and in a few short years you'll regret the size reduction. When I built my shop the original plan was 50 x 96. The day I walked in and placed the order it went to 50 x 104. And happy I did it with no regrets, that was 22 years ago.



I'd like to go larger. But given the available space, I feel this size building will fit better.


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## ray hampton (Oct 31, 2014)

I would add more exterior doors on the other walls


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## ortho (Oct 31, 2014)

Although not very insulating, but consider windows for some natural lighting.


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## zekeymonkey (Oct 31, 2014)

Due to building on a sloped lot and making a flat spot, I'm limited on what I can do on two sides. The sloping lot is what has driven my current thought of reducing the size. If I were to build it out of block against the dirt, I could go to 40x64 without a problem. Anyone have a rough idea of what having block laid costs?


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## gr8legs (Nov 2, 2014)

I am all shades of green with envy at your new shop building - 

Perhaps you should consider moving the outside man-door from the building corner to the middle of the wall so it's less distance (and fewer obstacles when there are vehicles and stuff in the garage side) to haul something from outside into the shop area to tinker with? Also, reverse the swing on the interior shop man-door.


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## GA Gyro (Nov 2, 2014)

zekeymonkey said:


> After looking at the site, I've decided to reduce the building to 36x56. Below you will see my updated layout.
> 
> View attachment 86795



Just a thought here:  FIRE... yeah, it can happen... 

The shop area needs a door for emergency exit... and that exit needs to not dump into the woods... rather into an area where you can get into a clearing if the woods are 'ablaze'... 

Not meaning to be a downer... but planning for these things is IMO a good idea.

Ga


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## brav65 (Nov 2, 2014)

zekeymonkey said:


> Good point about the inner walls. Any suggestions on the best way to do this?




Using steel studs you could construct 4'x8' or 10' panels that could bolt together.   Use T-111 on both sides with cut outs to access the bolts.  The bolts are pieces of all thread that are run through plates that fit inside the metal studs. Foam weather stripping on the stud seals the joints between panels.  You could insulate them and even run electrical with plug disconnects for each panel.  If all the panel were the same size, but with different configurations you could move recepticals, windows...to suit you resign needs.  Search for modular building on Google and you should come up with some ideas.  The panels should not be too heavy to move around with two people.  Building the panels is done on a jig so that they ar square and go together really quickly.


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## zekeymonkey (Nov 10, 2014)

I'm still working on getting a contractor to build the building. I met with one Friday that looks promising as he actually showed up. 

Looking at the above layouts, where would you put floor drains? I was thinking just one between the two garage bays. 

Thanks


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## zekeymonkey (Nov 26, 2014)

I haven't posted any update since there hasn't been any progress. Finding a contractor has proven difficult. As such, I've decided to work on finding someone who can do it this spring. 

I'm also trying to decide if I'm going to have to pave the driveway. I'd like to buy a Fadal VMC-15 or a machine of similar size. Given the length and steepness of the current gravel drive, as can be seen in the pictures above, I'm concerned about how I can get the machine down to the building. The machine, depending on what I buy, will be between 6,000 and 10,000 lbs. Any thoughts on the driveway?

Thanks!


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## genec (Nov 26, 2014)

A you could leave the driveway gravel or crushed rock, but put a landing pad in front of your door maybe 24 feet.
Pave the rest when you hit the Lotto


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## Reeltor (Nov 26, 2014)

That is going to be a really nice shop but have you thought about putting in exterior drainage?  It's always easier and cheaper to put it in before the foundation than after.

I may have to edit this after I recheck your drawing; IIRC you have a pass door on the left, then a garage door, 4' of separation then the second garage door.  If you move the garage door to the left then the pass door, then the second garage door won't you have more useable space on the right side?

I looked at the drawing again, you would have close to 10' on the right side rather than a 5' space on each side.  

Mike


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## John1961 (Nov 27, 2014)

Nice shop! I'm putting insulation under my slab to help keep the floor (i.e. me) warmer. Not sure your location, but I suggest (if you can) adding insulation under yours.

I agree with Gyro on a fire escape route door.

Good luck!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## JimDawson (Nov 27, 2014)

zekeymonkey said:


> I'm also trying to decide if I'm going to have to pave the driveway. I'd like to buy a Fadal VMC-15 or a machine of similar size. Given the length and steepness of the current gravel drive, as can be seen in the pictures above, I'm concerned about how I can get the machine down to the building. The machine, depending on what I buy, will be between 6,000 and 10,000 lbs. Any thoughts on the driveway?
> 
> Thanks!



I'm thinking if you can get a 50,000 lb concrete truck down there, or a delivery truck for the shop materials, you should be able to get a truck and trailer down there with a 10,000 lb machine on it.  You need a nice big forklift anyway.  :whistle:


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