# Atlas 12-inch. Model 3996



## Yeti (Aug 10, 2012)

Hello, here is my first post.
I just bought an Atlas 12 lathe. The color is greenish but most lathes on photos I've spotted on the Web are gray.
Does anyone know the color codes and an explanation for the different colors?


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## bvd1940 (Aug 10, 2012)

They probably got a good deal on that color when they made that production run:lmao::lmao::lmao:
That is one of the nicer atlas lathes they put out, do you need any documentation for it???:thinking: I think I still have the scans of some of the docs on my other puter )


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## AKYZ450F (Aug 10, 2012)

I have one just like it in my garage.


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## Yeti (Aug 11, 2012)

Thanks for the interest guys.
I was lucky enough to get the original Operational instructions and parts list with the lathe.

A soft copy would be useful.
_email yeti at simnet.is replace "at" with @ changed by swatson144 in hopes to limit yeti's spam_


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## pdentrem (Aug 11, 2012)

Green tends to be the correct color but what color of green is debatable. Gray is just boring.

Check the backside of one of the pieces. Likely it has not been repainted, so the original color will still be visible and not faded as it would be been protected from light.


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## Uncle Buck (Aug 11, 2012)

I have the same machine, unfortunately I did not get that nice factory stand with mine. Upgrade that lantern tool post with a Phase II piston for about $150.00 and that machine will be more enjoyable to use.


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## Yeti (Aug 12, 2012)

Is there a reason to choose a piston type tool post rather than a wedge type?


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## Old Iron (Aug 12, 2012)

Cost is one reason, However the wedge tool post holds better. Check out http://www.tools4cheap.net/products.php?cat=9 I have 2 of his a BXA and a CXA they are imports but the quality of his stuff is really good.

Paul


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## Yeti (Aug 12, 2012)

Thanks. A friend has one of those in the AXA size. He claims the quality is quite good apart from the small screws or bolts that he replaced with high quality ones.



Old Iron said:


> Cost is one reason, However the wedge tool post holds better. Check out http://www.tools4cheap.net/products.php?cat=9 I have 2 of his a BXA and a CXA they are imports but the quality of his stuff is really good.
> 
> Paul


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## pdentrem (Aug 12, 2012)

I bought a piston style but was not happy with the tool being pushed down on first contact with the work. I since replaced with the wedge style and have not looked back.


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## Uncle Buck (Aug 15, 2012)

Yeti said:


> Is there a reason to choose a piston type tool post rather than a wedge type?



Cost was the only reason for choosing the piston over the wedge. However, I have never regretted my choice of the piston as the cost difference was for me significant. As to performance I have never had any issues with the piston either, though I will admit there must be something better about the wedge to justify the cost difference. I think you are either pleased with a piston type or totally unhappy with them. I have seen a good bit of unflattering description attached to piston type posts written by many folks.

One more suggestion if you still have not made your purchase. If you buy your post according to the swing of the machine that matches what is shown for the post in the tool catalogs for an Atlas/Craftsman 12" machine you will select an AXA post. That was what I was going to purchase until a machinist friend suggested that I buy a BXA instead of an AXA. Initially I thought this a poor idea and believed the BXA would look like a hulking mass monted to the cross slide. 

My friend pointed out that if I went with a BXA the difference would not be that great, but the primary reason for my selecting a BXA post was the fact that with the BXA you can later fit a sissors style knurling attachment that will fit one of your tool holders and allow you to knurl without having to put your little Craftsman/Atlas machine through the punishment of applying the great pressure to the little brass nut utilized on the cross slide. Anyone that has ever knurled with a regular type knurling tool holder that relys on pressure applied at the compound (and by extension that brass nut) knows that the amount of pressure one must apply to accomplish the knurl is punishing to an Atlas lathe. Other like sized lathes of heavier build such as a South Bend or a Logan or a number of others I am sure this is no big deal, but after doing a little knurling with my lantern style knurler I believe that is too much to ask of an Atlas, thus I found that the sissor style knurler is the best option for my Atlas machine.


If you never knurl or have no interest in that then I suppose there would no benefit to realize with a BXA tool post for a 12" Craftsman/Atlas machine. I hope this helps.


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## Yeti (Aug 15, 2012)

Many thanks. I have been wondering about the size, that is AXA vs. BXA. Some have been installing the BXA while other talk of overkill. Not an easy decision!
http://rick.sparber.org/QCTP.pdf
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...ick-Change-Tool-Post-on-Atlas-Craftsman-Lathe



Uncle Buck said:


> Cost was the only reason for choosing the piston over the wedge. However, I have never regretted my choice of the piston as the cost difference was for me significant. As to performance I have never had any issues with the piston either, though I will admit there must be something better about the wedge to justify the cost difference. I think you are either pleased with a piston type or totally unhappy with them. I have seen a good bit of unflattering description attached to piston type posts written by many folks.
> 
> One more suggestion if you still have not made your purchase. If you buy your post according to the swing of the machine that matches what is shown for the post in the tool catalogs for an Atlas/Craftsman 12" machine you will select an AXA post. That was what I was going to purchase until a machinist friend suggested that I buy a BXA instead of an AXA. Initially I thought this a poor idea and believed the BXA would look like a hulking mass monted to the cross slide.
> 
> ...


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## Yeti (Aug 24, 2012)

Has anyone dealt with a stuck bull gear pin? (top of the picture)
It´s difficult to get a good grip on it inside the headstock, with or without tools.


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## pdentrem (Aug 25, 2012)

On my Atlas, I had the pin stick once and awhile but really had no troubles with it. 

See if you can turn it in the bore hole. If you can then you should be able to remove it and clean out the dirt etc. Just watch out for the ball and spring that hold the pin in place. That is why you have to turn it so to be able to remove and reinstall.
Pierre


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## Uncle Buck (Aug 25, 2012)

Yeti said:


> Has anyone dealt with a stuck bull gear pin? (top of the picture)
> It´s difficult to get a good grip on it inside the headstock, with or without tools.



I seem to recall having to enlist the help of a screwdriver once to release the bull gear locking pin. I recall being able to simply slide the tip of a larger screwdriver into the slot or groove of that pin and pop the pin out of its locked position. I think I then just hosed the pin down good with some kind of slickem and I have never had to revisit the issue.


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## caveBob (Aug 27, 2012)

Uncle Buck said:


> My friend pointed out that if I went with a BXA the difference would not be that great, but the primary reason for my selecting a BXA post was the fact that with the BXA you can later fit a sissors style knurling attachment that will fit one of your tool holders and allow you to knurl without having to put your little Craftsman/Atlas machine through the punishment of applying the great pressure to the little brass nut utilized on the cross slide. Anyone that has ever knurled with a regular type knurling tool holder that relys on pressure applied at the compound (and by extension that brass nut) knows that the amount of pressure one must apply to accomplish the knurl is punishing to an Atlas lathe. Other like sized lathes of heavier build such as a South Bend or a Logan or a number of others I am sure this is no big deal, but after doing a little knurling with my lantern style knurler I believe that is too much to ask of an Atlas, thus I found that the sissor style knurler is the best option for my Atlas machine.
> 
> 
> If you never knurl or have no interest in that then I suppose there would no benefit to realize with a BXA tool post for a 12" Craftsman/Atlas machine. I hope this helps.



Uncle Buck, since you mentioned the scissor knurler, I thought I'd throw out one that I got the plans for but haven't made yet. Don't know if you have heard of it before or not but it's called the Hemingway Sensitive Knurling Tool. They offer the knurler, and a bunch of other very usefull tools in kit form, or if you email them ahead of time like I did... they'll sell just the plans. (figured it would be cheaper for me to source the raw materials locally than pay shipping across the pond) Anyway, the plans don't cost much but are very high quality and only took a few days to arrive via air mail.

hth...


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## Uncle Buck (Sep 1, 2012)

Great idea, thanks for the link!


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