# Craftsman 101.21400 cleanup



## sgriggs (Oct 9, 2013)

I've been slowly taking the lathe apart and cleaning everything.  Today I cleaned the lathe bed and feet.  I swear it's lighter now.

Scott


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## pipehack (Oct 9, 2013)

Looking good. Mine was used for cutting wood so it's caked with dust. Is it hard to get the carriage off? I'm thinking about taking it all apart and give it a fresh paint job. I would never call it restored, but it would look better.


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## sgriggs (Oct 9, 2013)

pipehack said:


> Looking good. Mine was used for cutting wood so it's caked with dust. Is it hard to get the carriage off? I'm thinking about taking it all apart and give it a fresh paint job. I would never call it restored, but it would look better.



pipehack,

To remove the carriage, remove the bushing from the tailstock end of the lead screw. Traverse your carriage back and just push it off being careful not to drop it obviously.

Scott


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## RandyM (Oct 10, 2013)

Looking Good Scott! Isn't it fun cleaning these machines up?


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## Uncle Buck (Oct 10, 2013)

Few things are quite as rewarding as restoring a machine to it's former beauty with a fresh coat of paint and an overall cleaning and inspection. Most relaxing and gratifying!


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## itsme_Bernie (Oct 10, 2013)

This was the first machine I restored!   What memories! 

Bernie


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## sgriggs (Oct 11, 2013)

Uncle Buck said:


> Few things are quite as rewarding as restoring a machine to it's former beauty with a fresh coat of paint and an overall cleaning and inspection. Most relaxing and gratifying!



I've really learned a lot about the internal workings of the lathe.  I do find it fun and relaxing.  I will eventually paint it but I'm itching to see how it cuts metal.....

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4


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## wa5cab (Oct 11, 2013)

Pipehack,

Before you run the carriage off the right end of the bed (and obviously you have to first remove the tailstock), remove the compound and then crank the cross slide to the rear and slide if off the dovetail, catching the gib with your right hand.  Remove the carriage gib.  Put a block cut to proper length under the lead screw so that you don't leave it dangling by the other end.  THEN pull the carriage off the end of the bed.

Robert D.



sgriggs said:


> pipehack,
> 
> To remove the carriage, remove the bushing from the tailstock end of the lead screw. Traverse your carriage back and just push it off being careful not to drop it obviously.
> 
> Scott


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## Uncle Buck (Oct 11, 2013)

sgriggs said:


> I've really learned a lot about the internal workings of the lathe.  I do find it fun and relaxing.  I will eventually paint it but I'm itching to see how it cuts metal.....
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4



I am assuming the machine shown in the original post is the one you are speaking of. If you do not repaint the machine at this point it would make little sense to imagine ever repainting the machine. I cannot imagine tearing a machine down to that point and re-assembling it only to tear it back down again for paint. It is difficult to be patient in such circumstances, but the situation dictates patience to end up with a quality product.


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## pipehack (Oct 11, 2013)

Thanks guys. I like my lathe to be clean, but it makes little sense to me not to re-paint it while it's apart. there's nothing wrong with my lathe other that the caked up saw dust on it. That alone is driving me nuts.


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## sgriggs (Oct 15, 2013)

I knew when I was given this lathe that the lead screw had been mistreated.  You could see some flattened threads and hammer marks on the end.  I put a micrometer on it and it's .020 out in some spots.  I guess I'm now in the market for a new one.  Does anyone here have on they'd like to sell?

Scott


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## sgriggs (Nov 6, 2013)

Here are some more photos.  I've been stripping the paint.  I've got to tell you, this isn't very fun.  I'll be glad when it's over.  I have a question about repainting.  Will I get a better finish with a brush or using a spray can?

Scott


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## DamicoTileCo (Nov 10, 2013)

I like to spray my stuff with Hammer paint as it will hide a lot of irregularity in the surface beside it looks nice too.
When spraying, do a mist coat first. That will bond better than a solid first coat as the mist coat will give the second coat some teeth and help eliminate any runs.


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## southshore30 (Nov 28, 2013)

lots and lots of parts and accessories on Ebay for it. I have the Atlas version that I am in the process of restoring myself. Have fun with the project!


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## pipehack (Dec 1, 2013)

I'm currently restoring a Craftsman machinists chest. I started using  Rustoleum Light Machine Gray. It's turning out good. I did spray one drawer with hammertone and it didn't turn out too good. bought some in the quart and that stuff is THICK!! I tried to thin it out with xylol and all it did was make the paint wrinkle. I obviously didn't thin it out correctly so I went back to the spray bomb machine gray. I'll post pictures in another thread when the job is done.


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## sgriggs (Dec 2, 2013)

Thanks for the info pipehack.  I've got some hammered silver paint but i've been flip flopping on what color I want to use so I haven't started painting yet.  I'll post some pictures when I start painting.

Scott


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## 6sigmaford (Feb 26, 2014)

Drop into your neighborhood Tractor Supply. Tabletop sand blaster for $100 (assuming you have an air compressor). You will never look back. The hours saved and the surface finish when you paint are well worth the investment.


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