# SW2 Analog control selection



## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 20, 2013)

Did I do something wrong?  
 I went to reply to my post I started the other day and it is gone. I would have thought I would have gotten a PM if I had done something wrong. 

I wanted to ask if the SW2 Analog control selection mattered. There is looks like an I or a V


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## rdhem2 (Mar 21, 2013)

With what little information you have given for analog input "I" would indicate the input was a amperage signal as in 4-20 ma.  The "V" would indicate voltage input signal as in 0-5v or 0-10v etc. HTH.  Good luck.


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 21, 2013)

rdhem2 said:


> With what little information you have given for analog input "I" would indicate the input was a amperage signal as in 4-20 ma.  The "V" would indicate voltage input signal as in 0-5v or 0-10v etc. HTH.  Good luck.



Thanks, Sorry, My post Original disappeared , this is a Teco VFD JNEVS series, 101 H=1 110 volt input. 

Seems I had to set switch  "SW2 Analog control selection"   to  the other setting from factory setting (Not sure I or V now) for the Pot to work. If not, I was only getting about 10HZ change over the full range of the setting.


Let me ask, should a External control  Potentiometer  increase HZ turned to the right,  like you would turn up the volume on a Radio, Or does it increase  turning to the left?
Mine is to the left and would like to have it increase to the right, 
I thought "Swap #9 and #11, but if I do that I get an Error code, equating to 0.00 HZ.
Also the Pot seems very "Touchy"  esp. near the higher range. 
I fooled around with the Pot. Trim gain setting, but it did not help the "Touchy" part.
My Min/Max Hz is set to 5HX min/90 HZ max right now. 
Thanks, 
Tony
[h=3][/h]


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## Kennyd (Mar 21, 2013)

I saw your other post, and even replied to it.  Strange things are happening around here lately 

I used the factory settings which I think uses the common lead, it was you option #1 in that other thread.

I think the speed/freq should increase as you turn the pot to the right, just reverse the two outside leads to change the direction.

What kind of pot did you use? Size? New or used?

My personal feeling is that the minimum HZ setting should be about 30, and max at 90.


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## CluelessNewB (Mar 21, 2013)

Do you have a linear taper potentiometer?  The typical pots you pick up at Radio Shack etc are "audio taper" rather than the "linear taper".  If you use an audio taper pot you will not get smooth control. 


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 21, 2013)

CluelessNewB said:


> Do you have a linear taper potentiometer?   The typical pots you pick up at Radio Shack etc are "audio taper" rather  than the "linear taper".  If you use an audio taper pot you will not  get smooth control.
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer






Kennyd said:


> I saw your other post, and even replied to it.  Strange things are happening around here lately
> 
> I used the factory settings which I think uses the common lead, it was you option #1 in that other thread.
> 
> ...



_*Yeah, it was funny, when I refreshed the page that was already open, I got some cartoon figure in a "Test post" saying "Nelson You Suck"


OK, Yeah, NPN was the one that uses #8 common. Picture is attached below. 
I will fool with it more tonight. I thought when I reversed the outside leads, That is when I got the error, relating to 0 HZ. 
reason I wanted it Low, (HZ) was it's a wood lathe, I thought l could "Power brush" a finish on at the low speed.
I would only run it at the low HZ for a short while. 
Yeah, it's a Radio Shack Pot,but I thought I had read that it was the correct type. Number is 271-1715. It is a new one.
said it is a 10 K linear taper. Unless there is something wrong with it. 
I don't know?
I have read posts where other people have used this same part. 
Again, I do not know for sure.
*_http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062354


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## CluelessNewB (Mar 21, 2013)

Well that looks like the correct type of potentiometer but you can check it with an ohm meter if you have one.  Typically the wiper is the center lead. If you hook one end lead to one wire of the ohm meter and the other wire of the ohm meter to the center lead of the pot you should see a smooth change as you turn the pot from 0 ohms to 10K ohms.  Swap the wire to the other end lead of the pot and you should see the same thing only backwards.  With the pot adjusted at the center is should read about 5K ohms from either end lead to the center.  You should also read 10K ohms by hooking up the ohm meter wires to the two end leads (one wire to each).  The parts from Radio Shack typically aren't the highest quality (and I am being kind).  On a project I worked on 5 out of 8 op amps I purchased from Radio Shack were DOA.  I would not be surprised by a mislabeled part from RS.   

Also check you connections.  All 3 wires of the pot need good connections.  If one of the end wires is not connected you will get odd results. Below are two pictures.  The first is cut from the actual JNEV manual, the second (my drawing) are the pot connections without the extra junk.  If the control works backwards swap 9 and 11.


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 21, 2013)

Well, I switched 9 and 11 and got nothing, It stayed on 5 HZ.
Switched it back, and only worked to the left. 
Then I only hooked only # 9 to one of the outside wires, and it worked through the full range but still increasing HZ to the left. The
 other wire, hooked to either 9 or 11 gave me nothing.
I think I am going to try another Pot tomorrow. 
Could I have messed up the Pot using too much heal when I soldered it to my wires?


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## CluelessNewB (Mar 22, 2013)

Another lost post?

As I posted earlier I think you have a bad pot.  It might have been caused by soldering or it may have been DOA.  Your wires for the pot do not need to be very large, #18 or #20 would be fine, actually smaller is ok also but my old fingers hate those tiny wires.  You should not need much heat to solder little wires.  Use 63/37 solder and flux!  Check to make sure that the actual conductor part of the wire is under the screw of the VFD terminal strip and not the insulation.  (Been there done that!  I had that happen to me on a non-VFD project and it was a pain to find.)


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 22, 2013)

OK, I'll check it out, and report back. 
Yeah, I think my SPDT hook up must have had one wire with the insulation under the screw, only had reverse at first. Then
 I switched them, and it worked. 
Well that should not have mattered, just reversed what direction the switch drove the spindle. 
I switched them back and It was OK,must have been the connection.



CluelessNewB said:


> Another lost post?
> 
> As I posted earlier I think you have a bad pot.  It might have been caused by soldering or it may have been DOA.  Your wires for the pot do not need to be very large, #18 or #20 would be fine, actually smaller is ok also but my old fingers hate those tiny wires.  You should not need much heat to solder little wires.  Use 63/37 solder and flux!  Check to make sure that the actual conductor part of the wire is under the screw of the VFD terminal strip and not the insulation.  (Been there done that!  I had that happen to me on a non-VFD project and it was a pain to find.)


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 23, 2013)

Got the new pot last night,I didn't do nothing till today. I had to walk away from this thing for a while. 
I did ohm meter both pots, could only seem to get good contact (proper reading) some of the time. 
But then again there was still solder in the contacts and I couldn't find my alligator test clips. 
New one seemed to read proper, so I hooked it up. 
Now, here we go again!!
this one is working to the correct direction, but still "touchy" esp. toward the Higher HZ. 
But here is the thing, it works weather 11 is hooked up or not. I only have 9 hooked up, to one of the outside terms. on the pot. 
There is a perimeter, AIN + - I think it was, switching that from 000 to 001 changes the direction the pot works in. 
But it's still funny the # 11 outside wire does nothing. 
I wish there was somewhere to buy another pot *Locally* to try besides radio shack. 
I am gonna look for my test clips and check these pots better, unless there is something wrong with my inverter. 




mrbreezeet1 said:


> OK, I'll check it out, and report back.
> Yeah, I think my SPDT hook up must have had one wire with the insulation under the screw, only had reverse at first. Then
> I switched them, and it worked.
> Well that should not have mattered, just reversed what direction the switch drove the spindle.
> I switched them back and It was OK,must have been the connection.


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 23, 2013)

Well, starting to think I might have a bad VFD.
I found my alligator clips and cleaned the old solder off, and got a good ohms reading on the 1st pot. 
It checks out OK, in all the readings you told me to take. Did try to call for help in Texas, but there was no one there. 
Thought I would *Try* the F15 perimeter, setting AIN to 018, (digital) but it gave an error. 
Pretty sure a Pot. is analog anyways. 
:thinking:Only other thing I can think of is to make sure the wire going from T 11 to the Pot. is good, but it should be. 
About ready to :whiteflag:




mrbreezeet1 said:


> Got the new pot last night,I didn't do nothing till today. I had to walk away from this thing for a while.
> I did ohm meter both pots, could only seem to get good contact (proper reading) some of the time.
> But then again there was still solder in the contacts and I couldn't find my alligator test clips.
> New one seemed to read proper, so I hooked it up.
> ...


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 23, 2013)

Well the wire was good, but not only am l a fat fingered, slow typer, that can't spell either, :rofl:
I guess I am about 1/2 color blind. blue/white is not the same as green/white. 
My # 11 wire was the wrong wire at the terminal end. 
I am using some type of communication cable, each wire is about 22 AWG solid. There are 4 pair of wires in it. 
So, it is working nicely now. 
Next I am thinking about adding a E-Stop. I see terminal 7 is S4, factory assigned to the E stop command. 
I will have to read further.
Jumping out term. 7 & 8 with the motor running, stops the motor, and "E-Stop" comes up on the display. So I would need a NO type switch. 
But it seems to come to a stop slower than the SPDT switch. I have my accell and decell assigned to 3 seconds, so maybe there is a perimeter setting for the E stop decell speed. 
I found a cool looking knob for the pot too. I'll post a picture of it later. 
Thanks for the help guys. 
Tony



mrbreezeet1 said:


> Well, starting to think I might have a bad VFD.
> I found my alligator clips and cleaned the old solder off, and got a good ohms reading on the 1st pot.
> It checks out OK, in all the readings you told me to take. Did try to call for help in Texas, but there was no one there.
> Thought I would *Try* the F15 perimeter, setting AIN to 018, (digital) but it gave an error.
> ...


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## Kennyd (Mar 23, 2013)

Tony, glad you have it worked out!

I had thought of a e-stop as well when I wired mine, but after adding a external braking resistor the machine decelerates and stops so fast with the regular switch I just did not see a reason to add one. Just my 2c...


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 23, 2013)

Kennyd said:


> Tony, glad you have it worked out!
> 
> I had thought of a e-stop as well when I wired mine, but after adding a external braking resistor the machine decelerates and stops so fast with the regular switch I just did not see a reason to add one. Just my 2c...





Thanks, I did mention this was a wood lathe right?
I have my start and stop set to 3 seconds right now. 
Don't know if I really need one or not, Thought it might be nice, kind of a Red panic button ,more at a level with the bed. 
Still looking for a separate way to vary the Decell rate of the E brake. Maybe there is not one. Does seem like the "e-stop" stop takes longer than the regular SPDT switch stop. 
Thanks, 
Tony


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## CluelessNewB (Mar 23, 2013)

Good to hear that you got it working.


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 23, 2013)

CluelessNewB said:


> Good to hear that you got it working.



Thank, 
Thanks for your help, Now I got a extra radio shack Pot.:lmao:
I told her I was gonna bring the old one back if it fixed it. 
Might need it, I am thinking about the same set up for my Logan lathe.


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 24, 2013)

Here is a You Tube video. 
Please turn you system volume down before starting video. It is sort of loud. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtWUIV9zFO0&feature=youtu.be


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## Kennyd (Mar 24, 2013)

mrbreezeet1 said:


> Thanks, I did mention this was a wood lathe right?



Yes, so is mine (except a metal lathe) that I was referring to. My point is that with the mass of the chuck and the work, it can take longer to coast to a stop then for the VFD to decelerate the motor and stop it depending on the settings.



> Still looking for a separate way to vary the Decell rate of the E brake.  Maybe there is not one. Does seem like the "e-stop" stop takes longer  than the regular SPDT switch stop.



I dont think there is a way, at least not on my FM50.


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## CluelessNewB (Mar 24, 2013)

If that's a threaded chuck be careful running in reverse especially with a big old chunk of wood hanging out there!  It can unscrew, same goes for stopping real fast.  (Maybe you are not running in reverse but it looks like it is in the video.) Is that an Oliver, maybe 159?


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 24, 2013)

Kennyd said:


> Yes, so is mine (except a metal lathe) that I was referring to. My point is that with the mass of the chuck and the work, it can take longer to coast to a stop then for the VFD to decelerate the motor and stop it depending on the settings.
> 
> I dont think there is a way, at least not on my FM50.



IDK Maybe I'll just leave it alone. I did find a *F 37 and F 38, Maybe that is it??*
*F 37 -* *DC braking time (sec.) - 00.0  – 25.5      (Default 00.5 )*

*F38  DC braking start frequency  (Hz) - 01.0 – 10.0 (Default  01.5 )*

Did not try it yet. 


CluelessNewB said:


> If that's a threaded chuck be careful running  in reverse especially with a big old chunk of wood hanging out there!   It can unscrew, same goes for stopping real fast.  (Maybe you are not  running in reverse but it looks like it is in the video.) Is that an  Oliver, maybe 159?


Yeah, Oliver 159.
Yes, I was running in reverse. 
Yes, I know I need to be careful in reverse. My Logan is screw on chucks too.
I have not tried it yet, They say it is sometimes nice to sand in reverse, or maybe forward, then reverse, then forward, then reverse, etc. 
I actually do have a set screw on the chuck, I have to see where it lands though. I don't want to mess up the spindle. Maybe a brass tipped set screw?


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 24, 2013)

mrbreezeet1 said:


> IDK Maybe I'll just leave it alone. I did find a *F 37 and F 38, Maybe that is it??*
> *F 37 -* *DC braking time (sec.) - 00.0  – 25.5      (Default 00.5 )*
> 
> *F38  DC braking start frequency  (Hz) - 01.0 – 10.0 (Default  01.5 )*
> ...



Almost can't be, It is already set to 1/2 second.


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 24, 2013)

*Re:  E Stop Switch;.................NO momentary contact or NO sustained contact switch?*

While the motor/lathe is running, if I jump out # 7 (S4) and # 8  (common) the  lathe turns off, E-Stop flashes on the display, and I must turn off the  Fwd./Reverse switch to reset it, so I can start again. I only have to jump it  once, so a NO momentary contact switch should work, *but is there any  harm in using a NO sustained contact switch?*

wonder what this one on e bay is?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321092897997&fromMakeTrack=true

I did write the seller.


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## mrbreezeet1 (Mar 24, 2013)

Found the decell for the E-Stop. 
It's C 12. Default is 5 seconds, I set it to 3 as well. 
Just to prove it, I set it to something crazy like 45 seconds, and Jumped 7 & 8, and it took a long time for it to spin down. 

_*I wasn't paying attention one time, and Got to F50, Low frequency voltage compensation, And changed it. The manual does not show a default. I have it to 25, think thats about where it was. 
Can someone tell me what it is, and what it should be?*_

I am guessing it keeps the voltage at the proper level when the HZ are adjusted low. 
Thanks,
Tony


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## mrbreezeet1 (Jun 4, 2013)

Yeah, so I thought my 1st post was gone. 
Got some E stop switches off a fellow on another group, Got around to installing it today. 
Just made a "L" shaped bracket, pop riveted to the top of the switch's box, and sheet metal screwed to (behind) the front of the lathe.
Some day I need to get to painting this lathe.


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