# Reliable, affordable DRO setup for G4003G



## drs23 (Oct 2, 2013)

I hope this is the correct forum to pose this question. I bought my lathe specifically to make parts, mostly obsolete, for my motorcycle shop. In doing so I've since found my dials to be extremely unrepeatable and inaccurate. Granted my indicators are import VS high end measuring tools and I'm really, really green at this. I've worked with them enough now to know "which side of the line" to work with and all but that really takes a toll as far as time and the dreaded 'dead part'. Most of my material is free because my good Buddy works at a production shop and brings me drop and their 'dead stuff' by the box full so the wasted material is not really the problem. It's the time!  Nonetheless, I'm tired of having to attempt a project/part 3 or 4 times in order to get it to work without binding, getting stuck in a bore or whatever the case may be.

All of this intro leads to my title question. What's my best bet for an affordable, dependable and repeatable DRO system for my lathe.

Thanks for looking and looking forward to the sage advise afforded here.


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## Splat (Oct 2, 2013)

drs23 said:


> All of this intro leads to my title question. What's my best bet for an affordable, dependable and repeatable DRO system for my lathe.



Well, dependable and repeatable are one thing, affordable we won't know about until you tell us your budget allowance for a DRO.  The guys at http://www.dropros.com/ are respected and will actually talk to you about the units and problems on the phone. A lot of companies won't do this. Glass scales are cheaper than magnetics but they are susceptible to debris and coolant contamination effecting the accuracy and ability of the reader to work properly. There is lots of good information at the DRO Pros' website that would be worthwhile to read. Some guys use the I-gauging scales from Grizzly. I have them on my mill. They get me in the ballpark when using my mill and that's usually good enough for me now. Honestly though, I wouldn't buy them again for the lathe because I don't feel they are accurate enough for the home shop. Another site that has a decent rep from what I've read is thedrostore.com and then there's guys selling the same kits on Ebay. Right now I don't have the $ for a lathe DRO, but down the road I plan on looking at the DROPros or Drostore and hopefully prices will come down by then. Yeah, sure.   Good luck whatever you go with.


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## Bill C. (Oct 3, 2013)

Splat said:


> Well, dependable and repeatable are one thing, affordable we won't know about until you tell us your budget allowance for a DRO.  The guys at http://www.dropros.com/ are respected and will actually talk to you about the units and problems on the phone. A lot of companies won't do this. Glass scales are cheaper than magnetics but they are susceptible to debris and coolant contamination effecting the accuracy and ability of the reader to work properly. There is lots of good information at the DRO Pros' website that would be worthwhile to read. Some guys use the I-gauging scales from Grizzly. I have them on my mill. They get me in the ballpark when using my mill and that's usually good enough for me now. Honestly though, I wouldn't buy them again for the lathe because I don't feel they are accurate enough for the home shop. Another site that has a decent rep from what I've read is thedrostore.com and then there's guys selling the same kits on Ebay. Right now I don't have the $ for a lathe DRO, but down the road I plan on looking at the DROPros or Drostore and hopefully prices will come down by then. Yeah, sure.   Good luck whatever you go with.



Thank you for pointing out their website.  I enjoyed watching their videos http://www.dropros.com/DRO_PROS_Digital_Readout_Videos.htm. This old hand learn something new today.

- - - Updated - - -



Splat said:


> Well, dependable and repeatable are one thing, affordable we won't know about until you tell us your budget allowance for a DRO.  The guys at http://www.dropros.com/ are respected and will actually talk to you about the units and problems on the phone. A lot of companies won't do this. Glass scales are cheaper than magnetics but they are susceptible to debris and coolant contamination effecting the accuracy and ability of the reader to work properly. There is lots of good information at the DRO Pros' website that would be worthwhile to read. Some guys use the I-gauging scales from Grizzly. I have them on my mill. They get me in the ballpark when using my mill and that's usually good enough for me now. Honestly though, I wouldn't buy them again for the lathe because I don't feel they are accurate enough for the home shop. Another site that has a decent rep from what I've read is thedrostore.com and then there's guys selling the same kits on Ebay. Right now I don't have the $ for a lathe DRO, but down the road I plan on looking at the DROPros or Drostore and hopefully prices will come down by then. Yeah, sure.   Good luck whatever you go with.



Thank you for pointing out their website.  I enjoyed watching their videos http://www.dropros.com/DRO_PROS_Digital_Readout_Videos.htm. This old hand learn something new today.


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## PurpLev (Oct 3, 2013)

I like the DROPROs magnetic scales units and their customization (lengthwise) - especially for lathe, but unfortunately they are not "affordable" enough for me. For my mill I went with drostore.com which I wrote about here:

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/15934-New-DRO-Install-on-a-G0619-SX3

I really like it to the point that I think I will use the same for my lathe at some point.


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## Splat (Oct 3, 2013)

PurpLev said:


> I like the DROPROs magnetic scales units and their customization (lengthwise) - especially for lathe, but unfortunately they are not "affordable" enough for me. For my mill I went with drostore.com which I wrote about here: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/15934-New-DRO-Install-on-a-G0619-SX3  I really like it to the point that I think I will use the same for my lathe at some point.



Bill C., you're welcome. Sharon, I agree. The DROPros have nice setups but too pricey for me. The display units are pro'lly the same that these guys sell, except for the known name brands like Fagor, Uniq, Acu-Rite, Sony, etc..


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## drs23 (Oct 3, 2013)

Splat said:


> Well, dependable and repeatable are one thing, affordable we won't know about until you tell us your budget allowance for a DRO.  The guys at http://www.dropros.com/ are respected and will actually talk to you about the units and problems on the phone. A lot of companies won't do this. *Glass scales are cheaper than magnetics but they are susceptible to debris and coolant contamination effecting the accuracy and ability of the reader to work properly.* There is lots of good information at the DRO Pros' website that would be worthwhile to read. Some guys use the I-gauging scales from Grizzly. I have them on my mill. They get me in the ballpark when using my mill and that's usually good enough for me now. Honestly though, I wouldn't buy them again for the lathe because I don't feel they are accurate enough for the home shop. Another site that has a decent rep from what I've read is thedrostore.com and then there's guys selling the same kits on Ebay. Right now I don't have the $ for a lathe DRO, but down the road I plan on looking at the DROPros or Drostore and hopefully prices will come down by then. Yeah, sure.   Good luck whatever you go with.



Splat,
Thanks for pointing this out. I don't have a coolant system but it certainly will sling some "debris". :shocked: How big of an issue would that be "real world" as naturally there's a significant difference in prices between the two?

While I'd love to support our US Vets I find myself on a $500ish budget and the folks at DRO PRO just don't offer. If I keep saving my duckets I could probably go another hundred and a half or so. So far in my limited searching it seems as though this price point puts me in the "etched glass" class.

What's a mother to do?

Thanks for all the input. It's been very beneficial.

Dale


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## PurpLev (Oct 3, 2013)

For what it's worth, while glass scales are "susceptible" to debris and all that. they are protected by a rubber strips - some by 2 layers of those. on top of that, you can also install protectors (AL/other) C/L channels above to add another layer of protection (I did). as long as you don't blow air to clean them you should be OK in the home shop with those.


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## drs23 (Oct 3, 2013)

Senna said:


> If you want a brand new setup these folks have the best prices I've found on pretty much the same Chinese DRO that everybody sells.
> 
> http://www.drokits.com/
> 
> ...



Senna,

Thanks much for your reply. I did search for the "good US, Japanese, or German DRO" units and found many. The downside is most were attached to $30k+ lathes!:yikes:

I did find several displays ranging from $350 to 700+/- with no scales. Add the scales and they're $1500 & up. Out of my league for sure. On the bright side I found if all I need is a manual I found several for $13 - $14.)

I certainly would not ask anyone to invest any time searching for these name brand guys on my behalf but if you're ever just perusing the innerwebs and run across some of these please PM me.

Thanks for the reply,

Dale


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## PurpLev (Oct 3, 2013)

Don't forget to compare features in addition to pricing and make sure the unit you are getting does what you plan on using it for. 

For example, I use the 1/2 feature extensively and some older DROs don't have such functionality (find center of part on X/Y/Z axis). so while you may save $100 and get a "quality" DRO from a reputable mfg. you might be left with less than you wanted when all is said and done. Just do your homework.

here is what I compared when I did the same research:

1. price (within budget)
2. scale/dro resolution (for me - this had to be BETTER than 0.001 - so no iGaging scales)
3. features (your miles may vary)
4. included hardware/ease of installation/responsive supplier/etc


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## drs23 (Oct 3, 2013)

Senna said:


> Here's one with scales and likely to go for less than $5-600.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acu-Rite-II...=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item4613c89643
> 
> ...



Senna,

Thanks so much for taking the time to do this. Apparently I'm not a very astute searcher. (I know that's to be a fact, I can barely find my boots when I'm wearing 'em. :lmao 

I'll start clicking and see if one of the sellers and I can make a deal.

Thank you very much.

Dale


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## drs23 (Oct 3, 2013)

A few questions. I don't want to be a PIA but I'm ignorant concerning these things and don't wanna throw good money down the drain. Please keep in mind I'm not an electronics guru in the least.

1)  On the 





> Used Mitutoyo ALC-7705W DRO removed from a 9 X 42 Bridgeport.  THE "Y" AXIS "SCALE" DOES            NOT WORK.  Readout works as it should.  Comes with mounting hardware and power feed rod.



Does this mean the faulty scale needs to be replaced? If so one could probably source it from the same seller? The seller is ashmachco.

2)  





> Mitutoyo Digital Readout & Scales. Working take-Off includes mounts for Bridgeport Milling Machine, ABS Linear Scale AT2-N750 Code 529-108-1 750mm, short scale Part #unreadable 300mm, readout Model MLP-7705W. Location Top of V31



What does all that mean? Is this another example of merely needing to replace the non functioning scale? Seller: Mike Kandu

3)  The Fagor NV20. It's wart: 





> Unit powers on and displays "Error 02" on screen"


 What is an "Error 02" and what does one do to address it? Seller: priscospracos

4) This guy sounds like the best bet. Just guessing though. : *acu-rite 100s 2x turn
*


> *“*Tested. Powers on accepts commands. No further testing. As is, sale is final.*”  *


If I were to purchase this item would I just source scales for this model. Seems as I've read the scales are vendor specific. Is that correct? Seller: rgv-stingraymill

5)  This guy seems to be acceptable as well and the scales are already there. Plus free shipping. The other's want anywhere from $80 -$100 for shipping. How much do these things weigh or are they just runnin' the pork on the shipping rates??



> Acu-Rite III Digital Readout





> • 10 Micron Resolution
> • X travel: 26"
> • Y travel: 12"
> • Removed from a Bridgeport with a 12 x 36" table
> ...




I have 36" between centers but have yet to work that far away from the chuck. Shouldn't be a deal breaker, huh.

Thanks again guys and gals for all the time you've taken to help me out. I hope I'm able to pay it forward at a later date when I know what the heck I'm doing.

Dale


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## drs23 (Oct 3, 2013)

Senna said:


> Glad to help but Purp makes a great point about researching these used units to see what their capabilities are.
> 
> - - - Updated - - -
> 
> I will add that on the Acu-Rite 200 I recently sold a very simple keystroke sequence will change the functionality from lathe to mill for example. The necessary coding is already in the unit. The tech at Acu-Rite walked me through the process and was extremely knowledgeable and friendly. One of the great bonuses when getting a DRO from one of the big, well established names.



Great points Senna. Will get on this first thing in the a.m.

Thanks more than you know!


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## Splat (Oct 4, 2013)

Re: the Fagor NV20 referenced above.... I wrote the guy asking if the unit worked, any known problems, and would he pay for return shipping if the item was defective. He wrote back saying the unit was pulled from a working environment, he has a 14-day return policy, and buyer is to pay for return shipping. I almost bought that NV20 but with such a vague response, and the fact that I would have to pay for return shipping if the unit was a dud made me pass on it. That's the problem with buying electronics, especially units like DRO heads. You don't know if what you're getting is 100% reliably reading or how long it'll last. Sure, the name brand units might have a better track record but when buying used it's still taking a chance.


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## drs23 (Oct 11, 2013)

I got my DRO and am in the process of test fitting and have a few questions. I bought the lathe specific kit from drokits.com. I've taken a few photos of the issues that are concerning me and seek the advise of those who have successfully installed their own systems.

Firstly, the chip cover is too tall for my cross slide. I guess one would just mill off the excess height?

Here's a pic of what I'm talking about:





Second issue is the scale (I think that's correct. The part that remains stationary.) mounts to the carriage and in doing so leaves about a 1/4" gap between the rule(?) and the cross slide. I suppose that's just shimmed out to keep the moving portion and the fixed scale parallel?

Not a very good photo:





Notice also in this photo that in order to have clearance for the cable I would have to have the top most portion of the rule riding above the edge of the cross slide. Is that a big deal? If that's the case how do I secure the chip guard and make it functional?

Did anyone else encounter these types of issues when installing their own units? I'm open to any and all input and/or suggestions. I can post as many pictures as it takes to make it as clear as possible.

Thanks much,

Dale


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## 737mechanic (Oct 13, 2013)

Try this link. Walks you through a DRO install on his G4003G lathe. He shows you what he did with the very same issues you are talking about.

http://bedair.org/Grizzly12x/DRO/GrizzlyDRO.html

Also go here and scroll down and look on the left side of the screen and they have video's on installing there DRO's on a actual Grizzly G4003G.

http://www.dropros.com/DRO_PROS_Lathe_Digital_Readouts.htm


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## drs23 (Oct 14, 2013)

737mechanic said:


> Try this link. Walks you through a DRO install on his G4003G lathe. He shows you what he did with the very same issues you are talking about.
> 
> http://bedair.org/Grizzly12x/DRO/GrizzlyDRO.html
> 
> ...



737,

I came across Steve Bedair's website when I was researching the purchase of my lathe. I'd forgotten about it. As chance would have it I ran across the dropros 4 part video series this afternoon on YouTube. The thing that both of these installations have in common is their access to a mill which I don't have at this time. I have a good friend who runs a mill at the machine shop where he works but management is really cutting down on 'govt. jobs' right now. I can get by with a die grinder and deburring tools but I'd like to have it appear more professional than what I foresee with what I have available at hand.

I was able to get started with the install Saturday and pretty much see what needs to happen. Without having a mill handy I see it turning out looking like hammered ______, which I would truly like to avoid.

Thanks for posting,

Dale


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## PurpLev (Oct 14, 2013)

FYI - "part that is moving" isn't necessarily the reader or the scale - depending on your install, either one could be the stationary while the other - the moving part. (just saying  )

not sure if you misrepresented it - but 1/4" gap between scale and reader (scale = long glass part, reader = short part) is quite a lot. there is usually very little gap between the two. When my scales came, they had 2 plastic temporary screwed on clamps that kept the reader and scale connected (to remove stress from the reader hanging off the scale) - those also were used to set the gap between reader and scale - yes there should be some gap, but not 1/4".

As for the covers - they should be machined/fitted to suit your needs/setup. I redrilled mine, and machining one off in height is not unheard of. you can also use a hack-saw + files/stone to get it done. remember - it just needs to fit in size, and protect your scales, not be a precision cut - just make it as pleasing to the eye as possible.


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## drs23 (Oct 14, 2013)

PurpLev said:


> FYI - "part that is moving" isn't necessarily the reader or the scale - depending on your install, either one could be the stationary while the other - the moving part. (just saying  )
> 
> not sure if you misrepresented it - but 1/4" gap between scale and reader (scale = long glass part, reader = short part) is quite a lot. there is usually very little gap between the two. When my scales came, they had 2 plastic temporary screwed on clamps that kept the reader and scale connected (to remove stress from the reader hanging off the scale) - those also were used to set the gap between reader and scale - yes there should be some gap, but not 1/4".
> 
> As for the covers - they should be machined/fitted to suit your needs/setup. I redrilled mine, and machining one off in height is not unheard of. you can also use a hack-saw + files/stone to get it done. remember - it just needs to fit in size, and protect your scales, not be a precision cut - just make it as pleasing to the eye as possible.



I probably just misspoke. The casting on the carriage is what was about 1/4" proud. I was just able to mount the reader and shim the scale out with washers to get them on the same plane. There isn't a gap between the reader and scale as the scale travels while the reader remains stationary. The reader is in a slot in the scale so that distance is fixed and not adjustable to my knowledge.

The Z axis scale is too long so it's in transit now for a shorter unit.

Thanks for the reply.


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