# Mitutoyo MyCal caliper adjustment



## Groundhog (Dec 16, 2017)

A year or more back I bought a set of Mitutoyo "MyCal Series 700" calipers.  Every time I turn them on they read 0.001" (instead of 0.000"). Nothing I do seems to get rid of the initial 1/1000th of an inch. Nothing in the users "manual" except what to do if you swallow the battery. 
I know I can always press the "Zero" button for a few seconds, but that is enough of a hassle that I just end up grabbing my HF calipers for ease of use. It is a shame not to be using these more.
Any suggestions on how to calibrate this caliper?


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## Wreck™Wreck (Dec 16, 2017)

I suggest pressing the "Zero" button, if that is to much work bin it.
Calipers are excellent for loose measurements +- .003" or so, do not expect such a simple inexpensive tool to be accurate at sub .001 dimensions, not going to work well.

I suspect that when digital calipers first incorporated the .0005 scale it drove hobbyists mad.


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## Badspellar (Dec 16, 2017)

I just looked this caliper up on Amazon and somebody asked the same question.  The following is what Travers tool answered.

"Reset the Origin with the Black button on the top right of the face. Use a pen to push it in while it is in the closed position if you are having trouble. 
By Travers Tool Co., Inc"


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## Groundhog (Dec 16, 2017)

Wreck™Wreck said:


> I suggest pressing the "Zero" button, if that is to much work bin it.
> Calipers are excellent for loose measurements +- .003" or so, do not expect such a simple inexpensive tool to be accurate at sub .001 dimensions, not going to work well.
> 
> I suspect that when digital calipers first incorporated the .0005 scale it drove hobbyists mad.



The Zero button takes 3 or 4 seconds to reset the display. Pressing a button that long before each new measurement series is taken IS too much "work" for a $100+ caliper.
Try this yourself; Each time you turn on your caliper imagine having to press a button for 3 seconds before you can use it. It won't take long to want to fix that problem.


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## Alan H. (Dec 16, 2017)

A couple of thoughts:

1. Are you certain they are genuine Mitutoyo?  These are some of the most "copied" fakes out there.   Your comment about the length of time to reset to zero and not maintaining zero is a hint.  You have to be mighty careful where you buy them.  Recently discussed on another thread here, buy them from authorized dealers only.  For example, there have been fake ones sold via Amazon through other sellers other than Amazon itself. 

2. Have you talked to Mitutoyo customer service?  They are really helpful in my experience.    (1-888-648-8869)

3. I have Mitutoyos and they are spot on accurate when used properly.  One problem I do run into is dirt on the jaws, they will pick up minute stuff and measure it!   I have learned to wipe them down before zeroing or assuring zero.


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## Groundhog (Dec 16, 2017)

Badspellar -> I tried the black button when I first got them (over a year ago, maybe more than 2 years?). It didn't work then and doesn't now either! Thanks for the suggestion though.

Alan,
No, I'm not certain they are genuine. How do you know? I think I bought them from Enco back when. If they are a copy it is a really good copy. They are silky smooth and I haven't replaced the battery for over a year. An internet search for fake Mitutoyo calipers doesn't turn up anything for the series 700 calipers. Mostly series 500 calipers.

Next step is to contact Mitutoyo I guess. Thanks for the number.

I always wipe caliper jaws before use. Even my HF treasures. (actually I have a 6" HF caliper that I have had for 5 or 6 years. You will have to pry them from my cold dead hands if you want them)!


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## Alan H. (Dec 16, 2017)

Mike, a tell tale is that the fake ones eat batteries quickly so yours is doing well in that regard.  

Another indicator is the display is usually different than that of genuine Mity. 

Another tell tale that I have read about is that the "origin" button doesn't work or works instantaneously.  I think you must hold them down for a couple of seconds.  That may be the trouble with yours that you are not holding it down long enough??


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## Groundhog (Dec 16, 2017)

Alan,
My display is very clear and bright. Fake or not I really like that!
It doesn't have an "Origin" button. That has been a question since I bought it. If I remember right the instructions that came with it refered to the "Origin" button and I wondered about that. (those instructions should be somewhere around here?) The upper right (black) button is labeled "Init". I've tried holding it for a loooong time, with the caliper both on and off, every thing I can thing of.
I'll call the number you gave me Monday. They should be able to at least tell me (via serial number) if it is real.
All in all it is a very nice caliper. Just has the one glitch.


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## Wreck™Wreck (Dec 16, 2017)

Groundhog said:


> The Zero button takes 3 or 4 seconds to reset the display. Pressing a button that long before each new measurement series is taken IS too much "work" for a $100+ caliper.
> Try this yourself; Each time you turn on your caliper imagine having to press a button for 3 seconds before you can use it. It won't take long to want to fix that problem.


I understand this, however .001" is well within that tools ability to measure anything, ignore an aberration that small, I realize that this will be difficult if not impossible for you to do. I only use calipers for checking stock or work that is +- .005" which is well within what such a tool will do.

I have worked full time in machine shops for 30 years.
I prefer dials because they are unaffected by coolant, IP 65 digitals are fairly impervious as well yet cost a good deal more (this may no longer be true).

Currently have 6 Mitutoyo calipers 4 of which I haven't used in years, replace them every other year or so as they are one of the least expensive tools you will ever buy.


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## Groundhog (Dec 16, 2017)

Wreck,
All your points are well taken and valid. However, if I can adjust these (old but never used) calipers I would like to do so.

Do you have to reset zero each time you use one of your 6 sets of calipers?

I don't have 6 sets of calipers, let alone 6 Mitutoyos - I have 1 Mitutoyo and 1 HF. I would like the Mitutoyo to work as good as the HF.


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## Groundhog (Dec 16, 2017)

Alan,
I will call. There can only be 3 outcomes; 1) it's fake, 2) they can help, 3) that's the way it is.
1 out of 3 isn't all bad!! 
Thanks all - I'm done with this. I will post the results from Mitutoyo.

PS - that's a nice set of gauge blocks.


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## EmilioG (Dec 16, 2017)

I had this problem with the Mitutoyo caliper display, turns out that the jaws were slightly magnetized. I ran it through a demag and all is well.
Another thing you can check is the gib adjustment screw. Make sure it's not too tight or loose.  There are two on top of the display.


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## Groundhog (Dec 16, 2017)

Emilio - jaws don't seem to be magnetized. At least they don't attract any ferrous metals.
I hate to mess with the gibs. The action is so smooth I could only mess it up, besides the screws are still sealed.
I think I will wait until I talk to Mitutoyo on Monday. I've had these (mostly unused) for a couple of years so a few more days shouldn't hurt too bad!


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## Bob Korves (Dec 16, 2017)

Groundhog said:


> I always wipe caliper jaws before use. Even my HF treasures. (actually I have a 6" HF caliper that I have had for 5 or 6 years. You will have to pry them from my cold dead hands if you want them)!


I have them, too, Mike.  They are damn good calipers.  I got another one near the same time, they were like $10, -25% coupon, an extra freebie as well, and mine are used every day and are still on the same battery.  A spare battery also came with them.  I may never get to find out if the second one is as good as the first one has worked out.  Absolutely zero issues, good calipers.


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2017)

Bob,
Those would be the ones. They sit on my desk for cad/cam work and go in my pocket when I head to the shop. I'd be lost without them.


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## EmilioG (Dec 17, 2017)

The only Mitutoyo calipers I would buy new today, are the 500 series digitals.  The real ones of course, not the fakes.
If the MyCal has a bar code or QR code, Mitutoyo can tell you more about the set that was purchased.  Mitutoyo is using the QR code more and more.  The Chinese are mercilessly copying a lot of Mit gages.  If the problem persists, I would just send them back or warranty them.


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## woodchucker (Dec 17, 2017)

Groundhog said:


> A year or more back I bought a set of Mitutoyo "MyCal Series 700" calipers.  Every time I turn them on they read 0.001" (instead of 0.000"). Nothing I do seems to get rid of the initial 1/1000th of an inch. Nothing in the users "manual" except what to do if you swallow the battery.
> I know I can always press the "Zero" button for a few seconds, but that is enough of a hassle that I just end up grabbing my HF calipers for ease of use. It is a shame not to be using these more.
> Any suggestions on how to calibrate this caliper?



Where did you buy them. There are a lot of knock off Mit calipers. If you bought from an unproven vendor, then you may have a fake. If you bought from a known dealer, than you might contact Mitutoyo and find out how to rectify the situation.


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## woodchucker (Dec 17, 2017)

Not knowing the 700 series I just looked it up. Accuracy for the 700 is only .005 and resolution is .001 so not close to the 500 series
*MyCal-Lite Series 700-Digital for DIY*
Series 700

FEATURES


The “MyCAL-Lite” is an ideal measuring tool for DIY.
The LCD screen allows error-free readout of measurements.
With depth measuring bar.
*Technical Data*

Accuracy: Refer to the list of specifications.
Resolution:.001"/0.1mm
Display: LCD
Length standard: Electrostatic capacitance type linear encoder
Max. Response speed: 1800mm/s
Battery: SR44 (1 pc.), *938882*
Battery life*: Approx. 2 years under normal use

*Function*

Zero-setting, Power on/off
Alarm: Low voltage, Counting value composition error


Parts Break Down









Inch/Metric
Order Number  Image Range              Accuracy    Mass (g)
700-113-10
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
      0-6in 0-150mm .005in 0.2mm150
700-123-10
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
      0-8in 0-200mm .005in 0.2mm170
Pages: 1  


The 573 is, much more accurate and higher resolution. So the 700 series might be well within range.

Inch/MetricMetric
Order Number  Image  RangeLCD         Resolution  Accuracy  Mass (g)
573-281-30
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
      0-4in 0-100mm   .0005in 0.01mm    .001213
573-282-30-                 0-6in 0-150mm   .0005in 0.01mm    .001233
Pages: 1


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2017)

So woodchucker, are you trying to shame me because I don't have the best like you do? If you bothered to read the posts before you started typing you would know where I bought them and that I plan on contacting Mitutoyo tomorrow.

All I wanted to know is how to set the initial reading to zero.


I said it earlier. I'm done with this post.

A couple of people are genuinely trying to help, but a few are really making me feel bad by showing their ability (read wealth) to have the best compared to my lowly ability to spend several hundred dollars for a set of calipers. I was just asking for help, not belittlement.

Thank those of you who have offered positive ideas.

Moderators, you can remove this entire post.


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## woodchucker (Dec 17, 2017)

I don't have one. I have an Igaging unit, that I like. I prefer a Mic for precision. I was saying based on the accuracy that it might be doing what is within range of it's accuracy. .005 is the accuracy, so .001 off of 0 is still within it's accuracy. That's all I was saying.
I just looked it up to understand the 700. I thought it would be a better unit than the 500 based on the higher series #.  Turns out it is not. 
HF has a stainless that you like and a glass filled unit. The glass filled unit is not accurate or does it have high precision, so it's important to understand both the accuracy (repeatablity) and precision (resolution) .001 .01  .0005.. 

sorry if I gave the impression I was belittiling your choice, I was just pointing out the difference. I think we assume .001 accuracy and what it means. .005 means that it will repeat to with in 5 thousandths, not 1 thousandth.


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2017)

woodchucker,
I understand what I have. I just want it to start out at zero. It doesn't help for accurate measurements when the device does not start out at zero. I don't like having to press "zero" for 3 to 5 seconds every time I turn the calipers on - just lazy I guess.

The HF calipers that I like haven't been available for 5 or 6 years. All the rest that I've seen are just that - HF quality.
I have some older Igaging electronic mics (they eat batteries like crazy), but not calipers.

I too use micrometers for precision.


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## EmilioG (Dec 18, 2017)

I prefer dial and vernier calipers. The digital are good second calipers to have on hand. I like 6" and 8" for the stuff I do.
I have an older model Mitutoyo 500 series, 8", with SPC data out. This caliper is smooth and super accurate., but I bought a 6" ETalon dial.
Fast, accurate and at 6", the right size for most of my work.  The new Mitutoyo 500 digitals are on sale too.


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## Groundhog (Dec 18, 2017)

Please people.

I know what I have.
What I have is good enough quality, accuracy, precision, etc. for what I', doing.
I like what I have.

All I want is for the damn things to start out at zero.


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## 4GSR (Dec 18, 2017)

Groundhoug,

I know this don't help your situation, but try this.  If you have any mic standards, like a 1", 2", 3", or gage blocks.  Check your measurements at different intervals and see if they measure 1.001", 2.001" or any other measurement with an additional .001".  If they measure right on with mic standards or gage blocks, forget that it reads .001" at start.  Now, if they measure at different intervals with an additional .001", then you have a real problem.
In most industry, in their QA programs, calipers are checked at different intervals with gage blocks or other standards for qualifying them for service.  Not necessarily qualified at zero. Just another thought to check to see if you really have a problem with the calipers.  Yeah, we all like for our calipers to zero out at start, sometimes we don't always get what we want. But give this a try and let us know the outcome.


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## Groundhog (Dec 18, 2017)

4gsr
The only standards I have are the 1 and 2 inch that came with my mics. Results;
starting with display reading 0.001 at start up:
     1" standard reads 1.001
     2" standard reads 2.001
starting with display set to zero:
     1" standard reads 1.000
     2" standard reads 2.000

All I was asking at the start of this post was; "Any suggestions on how to calibrate this caliper?"
Should be an easy YES (here is how), NO or I DON'T KNOW.

_"Yeah, we all like for our calipers to zero out at start, sometimes we don't always get what we want"_ does not address the problem nor does it reflect the quality that is expected from a Mitutoyo caliper regardless of series or model. If you do not know how to adjust the caliper just say so. Do not tell me I need to accept lesser standards than others accept.


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## Groundhog (Dec 18, 2017)

FIXED!!!!!!!

I called the Mitutoyo number Alan H provided. The guy there walked me through several steps but nada. But he didn't give up (said it shouldn't do that). Consulted several manuals which said to hold the "Origin" button down. Mine Has an "Init" button instead but the same idea. Manual says to use a pen to push the button. Push, push, hold & push. Nothing.
 He was getting ready to give me return instructions when I tried holding the button with a paperclip. That seems to have fixed it. The pen tip is a lot smaller than the black button so it looks to be small enough. Apparently it is not small enough!
It reads 0.000 every time it is turned on.

Thanks Alan!


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## Alan H. (Dec 18, 2017)

Glad they were able to help you.

I have called them twice on two different issues and was satisfied by their response both times.  Like everyone, I like good customer service.


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## 4GSR (Dec 18, 2017)

Glad you got it fixed.

Now, does it read correctly when using the mic standards to check by?

My older MTI used to loose about .006" per inch.  After sitting idle for about 4 years without a battery, installed with a new battery.  It now reads right on.
Go figure.


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## Groundhog (Dec 18, 2017)

4gsr,
They start right, read right. The battery is at least a year old but probably several.
and . . . I'm fat and happy!


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## Wreck™Wreck (Dec 18, 2017)

Groundhog said:


> Wreck,
> All your points are well taken and valid. However, if I can adjust these (old but never used) calipers I would like to do so.
> 
> Do you have to reset zero each time you use one of your 6 sets of calipers?
> ...


On the rare occasion that I use the digital ones I just reset them to 0.0 when closed, I do have 2 absolute 6" calipers that require a reset as you mentioned, however if they are within .002 when started I consider this more then sufficient for such a tool. You can spend the rest of your life dicking around looking for numbers that repeat with a tool that won't, life is to short for this kind of thing. A better choice of tool for you would be any Mit , Starrett, Etalon  Etc. dial caliper, they do not hunt tenths like digitals which appears to drive hobbyists nuts.
I find these extremely durable and they cost $150.00 or less, I replace them every year or so, well worth the price.
Mitutoyo 8" dial caliper. This is a spare that I keep at home at the moment.


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## Groundhog (Dec 18, 2017)

Wreck,
Maybe you misunderstand. These calipers do not "hunt" tenths, not am I "hunting tenths". It was  a very consistent reading. Exactly the same time after time.

Mitutoyo said that they should not be that way. With Mitutoyo's help we got the reading corrected. The tool repeated consistently before with the wrong reading. It now repeats consistently with an accurate reading. Why would I want a tool that consistently repeated an error if there is an easy fix (which there was)?

Why is it so hard for you to understand that if I can make an easy adjustment to a tool that makes it easier to use I would like to do so?

And, I cannot afford to replace tools every year if I do not have to. With some TLC and an occasional adjustment I take care of my tools rather than replace them. There must be more money floating around Jersey than in Kansas.


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## Wreck™Wreck (Dec 19, 2017)

Groundhog said:


> Wreck,
> 
> Why is it so hard for you to understand that if I can make an easy adjustment to a tool that makes it easier to use I would like to do so?
> 
> \.


I understand completely, however you began by stating it was not easy to zero set taking upwards of multiple seconds, also I often measure hundreds of parts per day 50 hours per week and tools just plain wear out over time and use.

No argument merely pointing out what such tools are used for, I have Mit and B&S micrometers that are 25+ years old and in perfect condition, I simply do not consider calipers "precision" tools just rough measuring devices. Constant use and environmental conditions take a toll on such things, chips, coolant, grinding dust and so forth. I you are a hobbyist and can keep everything in it's little plastic case when not in use good on ya, this grows tiresome for me, I have an entire box full of boxes so if you need some let me know (-:


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## Groundhog (Dec 19, 2017)

Wreck,
Calipers are not a "precision" tool for either of us. However, for me and probably for you, they may be the most used measuring tool in the shop (second maybe to a scale).
 You are right in that we have entirely different uses. In your situation frequent replacement would be a necessity (as several sets of new skis per season were to me as a ski industry professional). Everything about our need and use of calipers is different. I don't quite keep everything in its little plastic box, but close. I see where it would be almost impossible and very impractical for you to do so.
Happy Holidays!


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## Alan H. (Dec 19, 2017)

I have dials but as a hobby guy I prefer digital.  I see calipers as a precision measuring device when used properly.

Yes, I keep mine in the spiffy little plastic boxes they came in or in a holder when not in use. I keep them clean along with my shop and equipment.   My expectations are for their zeroing function to work and maintain its setting regardless of their manufacturing origin.

In terms of my competency and validity of my opinion, I spent decades preparing to become a Hobby Machinist.


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## Groundhog (Dec 19, 2017)

I would prefer to use vernier or dial calipers and mics just to avoid the dead battery scenario. However, my old eyes find it a lot easier to use digital displays.


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## EmilioG (Dec 19, 2017)

The battery on a Mit digital 500 series last a loooong time and a very precise and best of all, they repeat consistently.  The older dial calipers are great, but buying new, I would choose a Mitutoyo digital every time.  The new dial calipers just aren't what they used to be.  Also, never had a problem with the tenths digit or battery life.  Some even have auto shut off function.   Glad Mitutoyo tech was able to solve the OP's dilemma.


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## EmilioG (Dec 19, 2017)

One thing I don't like about Mitutoyo dial calipers is that many of them or most, are made in Brazil., and some models have an accuracy of .002"
Older Brown and Sharpe/Tesa are much better calipers, I think. I've been looking for another 6" dial caliper for my tool box..


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## mksj (Dec 20, 2017)

I have three digital calipers (6", 8" and a 12") by 3 different manufactures, they all are absolute reading, I have set them once when new. All repeat to 0.0000 when turned on and closed, they all read within 0.0005" of each other on gauge blocks. I do a lot of Imperial and metric work, often flipping between readings, my eyes just get too tired of trying to read small dial gauges and lines. Often I work at tolerances of 0.001" or less, a good digital caliper can resolve to this level, beyond that I use a micrometer. My Mics are also all digital.  Too each their own, but for this old buzzard I much prefer digital displays for numeric readings. The exception is when you are trying to determine runout and need to see the swing of the needle, I use large face dial indicators so I can see what it is doing.


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