# DIY Lathe Taper Attachment-This Old Tony



## Janderso (Apr 1, 2021)

Hi gang,
I just ran across this video.
This Old Tony, is one of my favorite Youtubers. He is very talented, makes outstanding high quality videos.
One of his earlier videos, produced in 2013. This is part 2. 
The purpose of this post, is to expose the idea of making your own to those of you that want a taper attachment for your lathe but can't afford it or you just can't find one. I know some of the older lathes that come with the factory accessory are worth much more due to the device.
Cheers,


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## DavidR8 (Apr 1, 2021)

Thanks Jeff., Tony is my favourite. 

The part that I don’t understand is how is the cross slide lead screw disconnected so the taper attachment can move the cross slide. 


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## Janderso (Apr 1, 2021)

You must remove the cross slide nut so it moves freely.


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## jwmelvin (Apr 1, 2021)

DavidR8 said:


> The part that I don’t understand is how is the cross slide lead screw disconnected so the taper attachment can move the cross slide.



He removed the cross-slide nut. At about 10:00 in the video above.


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## DavidR8 (Apr 1, 2021)

Of course! Doh!


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## MrWhoopee (Apr 1, 2021)

I love TOT's videos, some of the best in every way. I watch some of them strictly for entertainment.

The taper attachment is one of those "must have" accessories. No lathe is complete without one, despite the fact that it is rarely, if ever, used. I used mine once to cut pipe threads. First I had to re-train myself in its use. Fortunately, my Heavy 10 has the telescoping cross-feed screw, no need to disconnect the nut.


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## Janderso (Apr 1, 2021)

MrWhoopee said:


> my Heavy 10 has the telescoping cross-feed screw


How does that work?
You mean it's two piece and allows for the lateral movement without any intervention?


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## jwmelvin (Apr 1, 2021)

Janderso said:


> How does that work?
> You mean it's two piece and allows for the lateral movement without any intervention?



I assume it’s like my Clausing, where the screw is retained in a block that moves with the taper attachment. The front side of the screw is a separate piece that slides axially and turns the screw with splines. So the handle stays in one location but the cross-slide screw actually moves when the taper attachment is engaged.


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## Janderso (Apr 1, 2021)

OK, so you disengage the cross feed by a lever or something when using the taper attachment?


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## MrWhoopee (Apr 1, 2021)

Janderso said:


> OK, so you disengage the cross feed by a lever or something when using the taper attachment?


No, no operator intervention required. I've never quite figured it out.  That is to say I've never taken the time to study the details. Much like television, I'm happy to remain ignorant until there is a need for me to understand the details.


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## rjs44032 (Apr 1, 2021)

Janderso said:


> OK, so you disengage the cross feed by a lever or something when using the taper attachment?


There are 2 different types of taper attachments that attach to the cross-slide: Plain and Telescopic. The plain one requires the cross-slide nut to be dis-engaged, thus disengaging the cross-slide feed as well. When you use the plain type infeed is adjusted on the compound only.

Telescopic type does not require the nut to be disengaged. It employs a separate spline incorporated on or within the leadscrew that allows it to float while still connected to the cross-slide nut. One end of the assembly is connected to the cross-slide infeed and the other is incorporated into the leadscrew. It is my understanding that the telescoping type allows the cross-slide infeed to be used during the process as the spline permits the leadscrew to function disconnected from the carriage. Hope this helps.

Best Regards,
Bob


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## Janderso (Apr 1, 2021)

MrWhoopee said:


> No, no operator intervention required. I've never quite figured it out


Yeah but,
You dial your tool in or out via a acme brass nut. If the taper attachment is engaged without disengaging the threaded lead screw/nut, something she's gonna breaka.


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## Dabbler (Apr 1, 2021)

I have a taper attachment on 2/3 lathes.  Neve used one.  42 years.  Just sayin'


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## Janderso (Apr 1, 2021)

Dabbler said:


> I have a taper attachment on 2/3 lathes.  Neve used one.  42 years.  Just sayin'


Party pooper.
I have a steady rest and follow rest. I just had to find them and have them for my lathe. >>$$!!
I haven't used them yet. I almost used the follow but used ready rod instead.
Hey, the lathe is worth more with them right?
Look how much a taper attachment brings on an old South Bend!!


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## Dabbler (Apr 1, 2021)

Janderso said:


> Look how much a taper attachment brings on an old South Bend!!



true!  I just don't do that much work with precision tapers, and when I do, I indicate in the compound.

My follow rest and steady rest are virginal.  bought them with the lathe.  They've never touched the machine.  In fact I've never used one on any hachine I've ever used....  Hmmm?  perhaps what I do is too narrow. 

 I use the 4J chuck all the time, and am getting collet chucks for my 2 big lathes.  If you need them it is good to already have them.  Or if your hobby is perfecting your machine, have at it!


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## rabler (Apr 1, 2021)

I found the taper attachment on my CK to be quite useful when turning a taper bushing for a motor pulley.  Or other precision taper.  It can be done by offsetting the tailstock, I've even seen an option for mounting a boring head in a tailstock to offset a live center, but a taper attachment is easier and funner.   Or use the compound IF the length of the angle is relatively short. Offsetting a tailstock or the boring head option determines and offset, so the angle depends on the offset and the distance between centers.  A taper attachment sets a precise angle regardless of distance between centers.  Of course I often end up indicating it in rather than trusting the angle scale.

I'm looking at turning some NMTB 50 tooling, which the taper will also be quite useful, but again not a dealbreaker to do without it.


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## rabler (Apr 1, 2021)

The monarch CK taper is telescopic and has two lockdown (friction clamp) bolts.  With both loose, the taper attachment and cross leadscrew both can be used simultaneously, but more overall slop.  One lockdown is adjacent to the crossslide leadscrew nut and locks out the leadscrew.  The other lockdown stops the taper bar from moving.

Monarch recommends locking out the leadscrew when using the taper attachment.  Presumably they intend the compound to be used for adjusting depth.  Engaging the crossslide feed in this configuration would not be good.


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