# Delta Milwauka Toolmaker Surface Grinder



## Vega77 (Sep 29, 2019)

Hi all
Just started out to get this machine up and running and to some degree restoring it.
It was exported from the US to Norway some time ago i bought it from the person who imported it to Norway.
I think looks rather ok, there are some things to fix though.
Its missing orginal covers for wheel and pulleys/belt.
The motor pulley doesnt look orginal, has only one "speed" and alot of runout front side 0.6mm(0.023622inches) and in V 0.07mm (0.00275inches).
Motor axel has a runout of 0.025mm (0.00098 inches)

Machine was on a pallet when i bought it, it then was out of flat by 0.15mm (0.0059inches), when on concrete floor at home its at 0.7mm(0.00275inches).
I just cleaned and stoned table and mag chuck.
Still need to level machine and regrind magchuck.

*Things to fix:*

damaged thread on spindel, wheel side. Fixed with a triangle file.
endplay on spindel.
motor might need new bearings.
to much runout on motorpulley.
leveling machine


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## MontanaLon (Sep 29, 2019)

That is a neat little machine. About the right size for the home shop. Looking forward to seeing what you do with it.


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## bl00 (Sep 29, 2019)

If you need any documentation, manuals, etc send me a message with your email address and I'll send them to you.


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## Vega77 (Sep 30, 2019)

bl00 said:


> If you need any documentation, manuals, etc send me a message with your email address and I'll send them to you.


Thank you bl00, i have sent you a message


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## Vega77 (Sep 30, 2019)

Its fitted with a Brown & Sharpe magnetic chuck 510
On the right side it has a fitting for grease i guess.
What kind of grease and amount are recomended ?
Is it possible to find year of manufacture from serial number ?


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## gr8legs (Sep 30, 2019)

Those are very nice little surface grinders Yours looks to be in nice, clean condition (compared to how mine first appeared). 

Use most any grease very sparingly on the magnetic chuck. All it does is lubricate the cam that moves the permanent magnet closer/farther from the chuck surface and too much grease just drips into the base and makes a mess. 

The wheel and pulley guards may be a challenge to find OEM parts - let me know if you'd like dimensioned pictures of mine to fabricate replacements. See some pix at https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/craigslist-find-surface-grinder-now-the-fun-starts.36698/

Good luck!

Stu


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## matthewsx (Sep 30, 2019)

What a neat older machine, I'm sure you will do fine work with it.

Just move the waste basket before you start or 

Cheers,

John


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## Vega77 (Sep 30, 2019)

Vega77 said:


> Thank you bl00, i have sent you a message


Got your mail.
Downloaded 'em all
Interesting stuff.


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## Vega77 (Sep 30, 2019)

gr8legs said:


> Those are very nice little surface grinders Yours looks to be in nice, clean condition (compared to how mine first appeared).
> 
> Use most any grease very sparingly on the magnetic chuck. All it does is lubricate the cam that moves the permanent magnet closer/farther from the chuck surface and too much grease just drips into the base and makes a mess.
> 
> ...


It would be interesting to take a look at your pictures, it was some crude handmade covers that id like to change at some point.


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## Vega77 (Sep 30, 2019)

Took the motor apart today.
And yeah those bearings were worn out.
A little dust inside but not more than expected.
Looked to be in good condition apart from bearings.
Bearings for Dayton 4K858P was 6203Z

I will get new ones (skf or fag) from the local industrial suppliere, who still has a nice selection of nuts, bolts and bearings. Even some imperial


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## Vega77 (Oct 2, 2019)

Dimension for a imperial screw: 
¼ -20x1 ½” 

Does this mean screw size 1/4", thread is 20tpi and length of screw is 1 1/2 " ?


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## matthewsx (Oct 2, 2019)

Yes, a very common fastener over here.


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## Vega77 (Oct 6, 2019)

I'm looking for parts at ebay.com
Is there any other places to recommend searching ?
I guess US and Canada is were most of these machines are located.

These are the primary parts im looking for:

12 SCG-9 Wheel Guard (cover)
15 SCG-8 Wheel Guard (rear)
35 SCG-80-S Two Step Motor Pulley
40 SCG-16 Motor cover
49 SCG-7 Belt Guard Cover
51 SCG-6 Belt Guard (rear half)


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## matthewsx (Oct 6, 2019)

Vega77 said:


> I'm looking for parts at ebay.com
> Is there any other places to recommend searching ?
> I guess US and Canada is were most of these machines are located.
> 
> ...


Sign up at owwm.org its the forum associated with the vintage machinery site. They have metalworking and classified forums you can’t see unless you’re signed in.

John


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## Vega77 (Oct 7, 2019)

From the oil cups the drawings shows oil wicks.
Im not familiar with their use on a machine like this, but i guess its for a form of constant lubrication.

There are no oil wicks on the machine now, i wonder if anyone know dimensions and where to get them ?
Or maybe theres a modern alternative ?

92 SCG-77 Oil Wick
112 VSL-6 Oil Wick


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## Vega77 (Oct 10, 2019)

According to vintagemachinery my machine could be from 1944 if i understand it correctly.
DeltaSerialNumbers

Any opinions  ?


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## Janderso (Oct 10, 2019)

The wicks keep the machine lubricated while keeping the oil from just running out.Nice machine!
With all the original parts needed for the motor, it may be less expensive to buy a new one, $110 range is what I paid.


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## BGHansen (Oct 10, 2019)

That's how I'd interpret the date.  Thanks for the link!  I've had mine for 35 years, never knew the date of manufacture.  Gonna check once I get out of work.

Bruce


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## Vega77 (Oct 30, 2019)

Status so far:
Got a package from the US with the  Belt guard (rear) and two step motor pulley.
Parts were in good condition and well packed.
Motor pulley didnt fit, its probably not the orginal motor.
I will have to turn a adapter sleeve on my lathe.
Thx to Keith for the parts. 

I have more parts coming my way, Belt guard cover, motor cover and Wheel guard (rear).
Coming via container boat, so might take some time.

What im still missing is:

12 SCG-9 Wheel Guard (cover)


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## Bob Korves (Oct 30, 2019)

Vega77 said:


> Bearings for Dayton 4K858P was 6203Z


In case you do not know, 6203Z has a shield on one side only.  ZZ would mean double shielded, S would be single synthetic rubber seal, SS double rubber seals.


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## Sblack (Oct 30, 2019)

I just got one of these with the extra table on top that swivels for tool and cutter grinding. It came with the centers, an attachment for index grinding and an attachment for grinding square tools that swivels in 3 axes and a finger for grinding cutters. There is some minor wear on the ways, nothing serious, and the bellows that keeps grit out of the Y feed screw was rotted away. I still need to get it running. Nice to see what size chuck it takes - 5x10". Gotta get one of those. Good luck with yours. The only thing I don't like is the coarse down feet crank. It seems only to be graduated in increments of .0005. Most grinders and feed in 10ths. But I guess I can put an indicator on it.


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## Sblack (Oct 30, 2019)

The wicks are simply cylindrical pieces of felt that hold oil in those holes. Nothing fancy. I wish I knew why all repaint jobs on old machines look like they were done with a huge paintbrush by toddlers in a hurry with no prep, masking or anything - nuts and bolts are painted, data plates are painted, you'd think the cat would have ended up painted if he hung around.  They all look awful (no offense intended, it is a general statement and I have machines that suffered this fate too). 

Thankfully much of the paint is gone on mine but nothing has been applied on top so it is virgin. When I paint a machine I strip it and then spray it, with all hardware removed and machine surfaces masked off. IT doesn't make a difference in how the machine works, but the result is less offensive.


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## Vega77 (Nov 1, 2019)

Bob Korves said:


> In case you do not know, 6203Z has a shield on one side only.  ZZ would mean double shielded, S would be single synthetic rubber seal, SS double rubber seals.



Good to know 
The old bearing (might be orgianl for the motor, probably not the orginal motor for the machine) were marked with on Z but still was double shielded.


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## Bob Korves (Nov 2, 2019)

Vega77 said:


> Good to know
> The old bearing (might be orgianl for the motor, probably not the orginal motor for the machine) were marked with on Z but still was double shielded.


In older days shielded bearings were used a lot, because the rubber products they had then were far less than perfect, especially when you added heat and high rpm and time in service.  In short, they tended to fail at times.  Shields do not go bad, but have the downside of letting grit into the bearings, if it is used in a less than perfectly clean environment.  These days, rubber seals on both sides (SS) will stay good for a really long time, even in relatively difficult environments and at high speeds.  Modern bearings also have better grease in them from the factory.  The double seals keep grit out for the life of the bearing for most applications, so many people have gone that way even when replacing single shield bearings (Z) in older equipment.  Some vendors use different symbols, be careful.  Make sure you know what you are getting before buying.  This information relates mostly to quality bearings, not to the cheap ones...


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## Vega77 (Nov 29, 2019)

Any tips for tensioning the belt ?
I used a app called easytension to check is reported mostly around 5.4 lb (24N)
But unsure about accuracy.

The belt was slightly lukewarm after 2-3 minutes running without grinding.

I have little experience with belt tension

Rpm is lower due to 50hz not 60hz , about 1427 rpm


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## tertiaryjim (Dec 2, 2019)

Vega77     The belt will warm up due to friction from going around the sheaves even with no load.
 I like to use minimum tension that will carry the load without slipping or slapping. With most grinding the edge of the wheel will be doing the work and DOC will be 3 thou. or less. Most tension charts are for maximum grip at specified HP and other factors and will be more than you need.

If the handle for engaging the mag. chuck moves easy I wouldn't add much grease. A good molly should work fine if it's compatible with the grease already in there, but don't use any grease that is conductive, like graphite. The grease also lubes the bushing for the handle.

Finnish and dimensional accuracy will improve if you use mist coolant.
A guard at the end of the table will reduce the grit and moister that flies everywhere.
It will also catch any part that might be thrown off the chuck.
The wheel guard may have a connection for a vacuum.

Run the motor with no belt and check for vibration. Should be smooth.
Check again after installing the belt to see if the spindle is causing vibration.
Check the holding power of the chuck with a small piece, two or three square inches in size. Check several areas of the chuck!


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