# Rockwell serial number?



## astjp2 (Aug 27, 2013)

I just bought a rockwell 11x37 lathe and the serial number starts out with 119- will that tell me what year it is and what manual I need for it?  Thanks Tim


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## jester69 (Aug 28, 2013)

you can got to OWWM  ( old wood working machines ) and they have all the info on delta Rockwell serial numbers and you can figure out the date.

Rick


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## astjp2 (Aug 28, 2013)

1957, good year!  I hope..Tim


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## richl (Aug 29, 2013)

Thanks for the help, I have a 1956 variety! 

Rich


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## astjp2 (Aug 29, 2013)

Here is what I brought to the shop!  I need to get the rest of the parts to get the collet closer working and really clean it up, the cross slide feels real loose in the nut.  Tim


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## yugami (Aug 29, 2013)

astjp2 said:


> 1957, good year!  I hope..Tim



The 50's were a great decade for tools in general.  Material was still relatively cheap and designs were becoming standardized on what we see today (less odd tapers, collets, belts etc)


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## cbtrek (Sep 8, 2013)

Nice Find!


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## astjp2 (Sep 12, 2013)

cbtrek said:


> Nice Find!


I am really hoping to find a metric gear set for threading and I need the #2 MT to 5C collet adapter for the spindle, I have the collet draw bar but not the rest of the parts...Tim


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## astjp2 (Oct 3, 2013)

astjp2 said:


> I am really hoping to find a metric gear set for threading and I need the #2 MT to 5C collet adapter for the spindle, I have the collet draw bar but not the rest of the parts...Tim



So how many of you spend the time anchoring, leveling, and truing up your machine?  I am thinking that I am going to anchor it with 3/8" concrete anchors and washers to shim it level.  I have some .006 shims so I think that I can get it pretty close.  How close should I get it to being level?  Tim


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## thenrie (Oct 18, 2013)

I know this is a bit off topic, but do you mind if I ask what you paid for your lathe? I'm looking at a Delta 11, but from the ad I don't think it has anything but a 3-jaw chuck with it. I'm wondering what folks are really paying. I have seen a couple on ebay, but the asking prices are always quite a bit higher than the settled price. My biggest concern is whether I'll ever be able to put together the accessories you got _with_​ your lathe.


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## richl (Oct 18, 2013)

offed only as a point of reference, a 1956 model 11x24
3 jaw 6" chuck
8"faceplate
no other accessories or tooling
missing compound and cross slide
a couple gears with missing teeth
price of scrap... approximately 200 dollars
i was given a compound rest and cross slide the previous owner picked up from the guynhe bought it from, turns out it is from a hardinge 1940 model 7-9" lathe... approximate value 300-700 dollars:whistle:

I just saw another 11x24 on ebay a couple of weeks back advertised as a parts lathe... price asking 750.00

my feeling it will be very hit or miss, pay the prime dollars asked by some ebay sellers or do the leg work and find a deal....

hth

rich


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## astjp2 (Oct 19, 2013)

I have most of the attachments but the taper attachment is missing some parts and I am finding that the carriage is not riding on the bed correctly.  but I still thing I have a good project for 1500.00  Tim



thenrie said:


> I know this is a bit off topic, but do you mind if I ask what you paid for your lathe? I'm looking at a Delta 11, but from the ad I don't think it has anything but a 3-jaw chuck with it. I'm wondering what folks are really paying. I have seen a couple on ebay, but the asking prices are always quite a bit higher than the settled price. My biggest concern is whether I'll ever be able to put together the accessories you got _with_​ your lathe.


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## richl (Oct 19, 2013)

maybe this will help also... my lathe was not advertised, i was at the mans shop discussing a south bend mill for sale, he offered the lathe for sale during our conversation. So maybe just getting yourself out there to as manyplaces and to as many people as you can will yield a good deal.
The 1500 number offered by tim does appear to be a more common and realistic asking number i have seen on ebay over the last 4-6 months. Tooling and accessories tends to vary wildly with each lathe.

rich


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## astjp2 (Oct 19, 2013)

Well Bebop came by and looked at my Rockwell lathe and Chinese mill, we pulled the carriage and found some wear and he did a quick scraping in the middle to get the wear patterns a little more even on the V and adjusted what constitutes a gib and now 95% if the lateral movement I had is now gone.  A quick visual, and he said that I got a fair deal with all of the accessories that came with it.    The mill will be my first project but I need and be looking for a new lead screw for the lathe, a V-way wiper and cover and the magnifier for the taper attachment.  It was impressive to watch him scrape, I can only hope to get close to his skill.  Tim

So if anyone has a line on a new long lead screw, way wiper and cover and the magnifier for a taper attachment, please give me a shout.  Thanks


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## richl (Oct 20, 2013)

astjp2 said:


> Well Bebop came by and looked at my Rockwell lathe and Chinese mill, we pulled the carriage and found some wear and he did a quick scraping in the middle to get the wear patterns a little more even on the V and adjusted what constitutes a gib and now 95% if the lateral movement I had is now gone.  A quick visual, and he said that I got a fair deal with all of the accessories that came with it.    The mill will be my first project but I need and be looking for a new lead screw for the lathe, a V-way wiper and cover and the magnifier for the taper attachment.  It was impressive to watch him scrape, I can only hope to get close to his skill.  Tim
> 
> So if anyone has a line on a new long lead screw, way wiper and cover and the magnifier for a taper attachment, please give me a shout.  Thanks


hey tim, what type of mill did ya get? It would be nice to see some pics also)
rich


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## astjp2 (Oct 20, 2013)

Its a Tiawanese 6x26 mill that was given to me from a friend who retired from the plant.  It was cast in the late 70's to late 80's, the column is cast into the base unlike the newer mills that bolt together.  I am going to do a full rebuild on it, rescrape the ways and it will need new bearings for the spindle.  I may also convert it to a DC motor with a varidrive.  Its a small mill but with a DRO it will be a good machine to work on small projects.  I will need to take some pics soon and post them.  Tim


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## astjp2 (Oct 22, 2013)

Well I finally found a local repair shop to fix and tune up my indicators, I picked up a pair of COMAPQ .0005 test indicators to start checking my ways...if anyone wants contact info, they seem eager and willing to provide free estimates. Tim


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## astjp2 (Oct 23, 2013)

Well I found a set of 16 each 5c collets for sale for $85.  they were listed as hardinge but when I picked up, they looked asian.  For 85, did I get a good deal?  Tim


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## richl (Oct 24, 2013)

astjp2 said:


> Well I found a set of 16 each 5c collets for sale for $85.  they were listed as hardinge but when I picked up, they looked asian.  For 85, did I get a good deal?  Tim


was that an ebay purchase tim? i am also looking for some 5c collets for my lathes and that price sounds good to me.

rich


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## astjp2 (Oct 24, 2013)

richl said:


> was that an ebay purchase tim? i am also looking for some 5c collets for my lathes and that price sounds good to me.
> 
> rich



No, it was a local website.  http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=13


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## thenrie (Oct 25, 2013)

Was that a Harbor Freight engine crane lift you used to load and move your lathe? I'm in the process of buying a D/R 11X36 and trying to decide how I'm going to get it on and off my trailer and into place in my shop. That lift makes it look like not too bad a job.

Incidentally, looks like I'll be moving to the Payson area just south of you next summer. Good to know there's someone else around with a similar lathe. Thanks for posting the shops and services you are using in your restoration efforts.


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## astjp2 (Oct 25, 2013)

thenrie said:


> Was that a Harbor Freight engine crane lift you used to load and move your lathe? I'm in the process of buying a D/R 11X36 and trying to decide how I'm going to get it on and off my trailer and into place in my shop. That lift makes it look like not too bad a job.
> 
> Incidentally, looks like I'll be moving to the Payson area just south of you next summer. Good to know there's someone else around with a similar lathe. Thanks for posting the shops and services you are using in your restoration efforts.


Yes its a HF engine lift, and I am trying to arrange a scraping class in our area for those who need to improve their machine and refine what they have.  I am slowly getting the tools together to get my machines into good shape....  Tim


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## astjp2 (Oct 27, 2013)

So I ran the lathe today turning some cast iron, I found that there are some problems that concern me.  The spindle got really hot and made some noises, I am not sure if it was the belts or bearings causing the heat.  The spindle got so hot with the cover off that it was uncomfortable to the touch.  I also had one heck of a squeal when the carriage reached a certain point, either the force to cut the material caused the belts to slip or I have some serious problems in the apron.  I also have the motor wired to 110vac, it felt that the motor was not powerful enough, does the tribe think that converting to 220 would increase the torque ability for the motor?  

Do I run the motor again and do a thermal image to find what is causing the heat?  What belts are supposed to be used?  I have dayco x48 belts with the same date code in 2010.  I also need to replace the lead screw because of wear and its bent.  I am going to take one thing at a time, but I am real frustrated that I may not be able to use the lathe until I get some major items identified or fixed.  

Tim


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## richl (Oct 27, 2013)

I only offer this as one mans opinion, please regard as you feel best suits your situation.)
220 is always my preference for larger equipment, they run smoother, and more efficiently. When given a chooce that is.

As for the heat situation, it may not be the case for you, but it might be worth a look, the reeves drive setup is not the best situation, the belts can be to tight in one range and too loose on the other, resulting in overheating or lose of power. Do a search here, there have been a couple of members who have eliminated the drive system for other methods... worth the search and read anyway.

Also, i have a link somewhere on gaines belts, they pointed to an article about matched belts, i think its in my phone, unfortunately its down for a couple more days...

hope there is something in here you find useful.

rich


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## astjp2 (Oct 27, 2013)

Would this be a good option for a crosshair for the taper attachment?  Tim

http://www.edmundoptics.com/microsc...ticles/crosshair-scale-contact-reticles/62216


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## astjp2 (Oct 27, 2013)

Thanks, I was on their site looking at what it will take to build a new lead screw.  Thanks Tim



Senna said:


> Here's a great source for lead screws and nuts.
> Ton of good info on their site too.
> 
> http://www.roton.com/?gclid=CNqhsY-YuLoCFYxAMgod0zcAnQ


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## thenrie (Oct 31, 2013)

I have been reading through the manual and came across the part about adjusting the bearings. With regard to your heat problem, I would bet that's your problem. It's a simple thing to fix, so I'd take a minute to read that part and do the adjustment. You simply loosen a set screw, rotate the locking ring, give the head a good rap with a mallot to loosen the bearings, then readjust them properly, then lock the screw back down. They should be adjusted so that when you spin the chuck by hand, you feel a slight drag. Too tight creates the heat. You can download the manuals from the Yahoo group "RockwellLathe" under their "files" section.

By the way, just this morning I won the bidding on a D/R 11X36, model 25-100. I'll pick it up next week. It looks exactly like yours on the trailer, including the missing tailstock (I've already located one). I'll be following all your posts, so keep them coming!)


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## astjp2 (Nov 4, 2013)

I learned 3 important things about my lathe this weekend.  1. the noise was coming from the gears on the side of the machine, not the spindle.  2. the motor is currently wired for 110V and needs to be 220 because it has a hard time starting with no load.  3. I have a lot of work ahead of me if I want to make it into a nice lathe....


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## thenrie (Nov 6, 2013)

I just looked at the Roton site. Will they build a lead screw to order? If so, since I need one too, maybe we should order them together. Have you priced one yet? I'm also going to need the cross slide screw and nut.  How is your half nut? I'm going to need a new one.


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## richl (Nov 6, 2013)

Cross slide screw and nut here also... maybe we can get enough for a bulk order.

Rich


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## thenrie (Nov 7, 2013)

I just came across this thread: http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/th...-leadscrew-nuts-the-easy-way?highlight=acetal that discusses making half nuts, cross slide nuts, and other useful stuff with acetol and Delrin. All indications are it is good stuff for the HSM type of folks normally using lathes such as our DRs. I think I'm going to give this a shot for my cross slide. Thought I'd post it here, since several of us, including the OP might be interested.

The most important thought I got out of it was that one could cut his own acme thread screws and not have to be concerned that they were not absolutely perfectly to depth, because he would be making a custom nut specifically for that thread...with NO backlash. However, if one were going to buy a generic acme rod for the lead screw, I would make the half nuts before having the keyway cut in the rod.

TH


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## astjp2 (Nov 7, 2013)

I was going to buy raw screws and have the slot milled locally.  The hard part is finding someone with a mill long enough to cut the slot.    I will probably get all of the screws replaced eventually.  I have not torn down the apron yet because I need the lathe to rebuild parts on my 6x26 mill first.  Tim


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## astjp2 (Nov 13, 2013)

Well I had a suprise package come it today, I had ordered some parts and forgot I ordered them.  I now have a new to me/slightly used half nut, a 5C collet adapter and a nose piece, and lastly the way wiper I needed that was missing.  The only major things I dont have for this lathe now is a carriage stop, a turret tool holder and a tool post grinder.  Tim


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## astjp2 (Nov 15, 2013)

Would this be a good insert holder to get?  Tim

http://www.travers.com/47619-55-620-005?Category=cutting -  indexables:298104||turning tool holders:298115||top %26 lock pin type m holder:298141||UserSearch=block id 47619 and class level3 id 298141

You need to cut and paste the whole address into your address bar.


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## astjp2 (Nov 16, 2013)

I did some analysis with my thermal imager, it seems that there are some issues with the reeve drive, belts and something on the side gears.  This is only preliminary but I helps in trouble shooting.  Tim


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## astjp2 (Nov 22, 2013)

Did anyone take a look at the pics?  What do you think?  If you open them in MS picture viewer, you can enlarge them.  Tim


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## thenrie (Nov 23, 2013)

I hate it when I have to download pics before I can see what they are. I normally pass on those. I did get a glimpse of one of the lower pulley. Cool picture.


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## astjp2 (Nov 24, 2013)

thenrie said:


> I hate it when I have to download pics before I can see what they are. I normally pass on those. I did get a glimpse of one of the lower pulley. Cool picture.



If anyone knows how to convert to a Jpg  from a bitmap, I will convert and that way they don't have to open them.  Tim:whiteflag:


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## stevecmo (Nov 24, 2013)

astjp2 said:


> If anyone knows how to convert to a Jpg  from a bitmap, I will convert and that way they don't have to open them.  Tim:whiteflag:




Try this: http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-BMP-to-JPEG-Using-Microsoft-Paint


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## astjp2 (Nov 24, 2013)

Ok, lets try this again....


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## thenrie (Nov 24, 2013)

Wow! That's pretty cool! Did you ever figure out what was causing the heat? From your pics I'm thinking it's a wear or lubrication issue in the pulley gear bushing on the spindle shaft, or possibly belts simply too tight. Tried getting some oil in there?


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## astjp2 (Nov 25, 2013)

I have been working on homework and cleaning up the shop lately but I think its belts induced heat.  They look newer but I am not sure if they are the correct one or if they are just too tight.  Yeah, having a cool thermal imager is helpful in troubleshooting.  I knew it was getting hot, just couldn't tell where it was coming from without the TI.  Tim


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## thenrie (Nov 26, 2013)

Just something to check, when I went through my headstock, I found the pulley gear bearing was dry. It would turn, but once I got the belt tension off of it I could feel it chatter as it turned. Luckily, I hadn't yet turned it on. There is an oil zerk on it. After applying a generous amount of oil and hand turning it, it loosened right up and felt good. Before loosening the belt tension, though, I couldn't tell.


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## astjp2 (Nov 26, 2013)

thenrie said:


> Just something to check, when I went through my headstock, I found the pulley gear bearing was dry. It would turn, but once I got the belt tension off of it I could feel it chatter as it turned. Luckily, I hadn't yet turned it on. There is an oil zerk on it. After applying a generous amount of oil and hand turning it, it loosened right up and felt good. Before loosening the belt tension, though, I couldn't tell.



I saw the oil cup, I will need to check it when I get close to that point.  tim


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## astjp2 (Dec 26, 2013)

Well on Christmas, I got bored and did a craigslist search, there are about a dozen across the nation.  3 on the west coast, 2 in the mid west and about 6 on the east coast.  They were all over the place in prices 700-3600 and condition.  If someone is looking for a RW lathe, they are out there.  Tim


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## astjp2 (Dec 27, 2013)

Ok, so I tore into the apron and cross slide today, I found the shaft for the clutch worn, both bearings needed replaced and the steel clutch looks like its been through hell but the brass gear was like new???  I found new 603 and 603 1/4 bearings for $20 for the clutch.  The worm is not the best, the key is about 1/3 worn along with the lead screw.  The half nuts were worn some but not terrible.  The gear for the thread dial is almost gone.  The crossfeed nut was not original, there was something imbedded into the threads and they looked like they were never ACME threads, and the sliding shaft is real worn but the screw looks excellent.  Now I just need to replace some bushings, a few shafts.  I sure hope I remember where everything goes.

Oh yeah, why do people insist on using grease on EVERYTHING?  When it dries its like chiseling off concrete!


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## astjp2 (Dec 28, 2013)

Bearings:
http://www.rbcbearings.com/ballbearings/detail.asp?PartNumber=603 1/4 -V

http://www.rbcbearings.com/ballbearings/detail.asp?PartNumber=603 - V


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## thenrie (Dec 29, 2013)

Thanks for posting those links. I hadn't considered replacing my bearings, but at $20, I guess I should do it. Even if the old ones are still good, they're 50+ years old.


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## astjp2 (Jan 1, 2014)

Made some progress, I was checking the wear on the bed.  Its pretty dramatic....you decide!
	

		
			
		

		
	





- - - Updated - - -

I also did some scraping, this is where I am at.  Using Cannode 2243 blue.


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## thenrie (Jan 3, 2014)

Are you trying the scraping on your own, or do you have some coaching? I'm thinking my saddle is going to need some work on the ways. I expect to eventually try to acquire some skill in scraping. From some of your posts, it sounds like you have access to some experienced people and heavy machines. I'm pretty much on my own. That setup for measuring the ways is nice.


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## astjp2 (Jan 3, 2014)

Tony, get your lathe here and I can let you do the scraping in my shop, I have a 24x48' workshop.  You are doing great with your mechanical rebuild, I am trying the scraping and sending the pics to someone who is experienced but not having him there is frustrating because I don't feel that I am making progress.  Tim


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## thenrie (Jan 3, 2014)

The plan is to get there and have my own shop.)  My current shop is 35X55 and I have it stuffed with all manner of metal, wood working and general construction tools. Not sure I'll be able to have a shop like this one after the move, but the plan is to at least have one big enough for the essentials. The thing about woodworking tools is that they take up so much space. Metal working tools are heavy, but take up less space. We'll see what happens. Thanks for the offer, though. You'll surely see my face a few times in your shop!

Got my spindle back today. I'm about ready to start putting it back together.


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## astjp2 (Jan 3, 2014)

I just got the 2 each 603 thrust bearings in and several of the bushings that I need.  I ordered the special thrust bearings for the taper attachment, they were 29.00 each plus shipping.  I still have 3 bushings on order and i sent out the worm gear to see how much it would cost to be made.  It will probably be a few hundred each if I only get a couple...Tim


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## thenrie (Jan 4, 2014)

I posted that list of bushings I bought on my thread. I didn't correlated it to the part numbers in the manual, though. I just pressed out the old bushings and ordered new ones according to the measurements of the old ones.


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## astjp2 (Jan 4, 2014)

I screwed up on a couple of the thrust bearings, I ordered for 1/2" shaft and not 7/16" at least they will take them back....I found several more bushings that I need to replace and I have to figure out what "bearing" is in the cross slide, it looks like a steel bushing.  I also need to find a worm gear, I sent mine out for an estimate on getting new ones made.  I also found a good way to strip the paint off of the smaller castings, I dip them in Berrymans carb cleaner, it eats the paint right off in a couple of hours....  I am still scraping on the cross slide, I have a long way to go before it is finished.  I received the Cannode blue in yellow, it helps find where I have scraped the blue away but not where I don't need to.  
	

		
			
		

		
	




	

		
			
		

		
	
Tim


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## astjp2 (Jan 8, 2014)

*Compound gears for the apron*

I am working with a supplier and Dick Triemstra on getting a batch of new compound gears made for the apron, these are the ones that drive the apron and engage the rack. MCL-137 is the part number. Tim


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## kreiert (Jan 9, 2014)

*Re: Compound gears for the apron*



astjp2 said:


> I am working with a supplier and Dick Triemstra on getting a batch of new compound gears made for the apron, these are the ones that drive the apron and engage the rack. MCL-137 is the part number. Tim
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Please keep us updated on this  set of apron gears. I'm also very interested in obtaining a replacement set for my 11" Rockwell.  Thanks ! The other Tim


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## thenrie (Jan 9, 2014)

What are they looking at as a ballpark price figure? I'm sure you are aware, but the smaller gear is pressed into the larger gear and held in place by set screws. The larger diameter gear doesn't seem to get much wear. It would be nice if they could produce just the smaller spur gear and supply that as a part.


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## astjp2 (Jan 9, 2014)

I am waiting on a quote for a price break.  Dick will be making the large purchase and I am just doing the leg work and finding a manufacturer.  Trying to reinstall the set screw will be difficult, I think we can do just the pinion gear but the 44 tooth gear is fairly cheap and common.  Tim


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## astjp2 (Jan 10, 2014)

I am looking at an 8 week lead time for the gears, I am waiting to see if Dick is willing to go for it with me.  Tim


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## astjp2 (Feb 11, 2014)

I should have a new lathe bed getting shipped on Friday, hopefully in a week, I will have the new one and can start taking measurements.  Tim


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## thenrie (Feb 11, 2014)

Hope this one works out for you. I still haven't taken any measurements on my bed. It doesn't appear to be badly worn to the eye, but you can never tell for sure without measuring, I guess. On the other hand, the ways on the saddle have quite a bit of wear.  I have also noted a bit of wear on the ways of the tailstock. Haven't decided what to do about that yet.


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## astjp2 (Mar 8, 2014)

Well I finally got my new  bed from Joe at Plaza, I did some measuring, just preliminary but it looks like there is only about .0005 on the flat ways for wear and the inverted V was only about .001", my old one was worn almost .010 on the inverted V's and the flat way was .0035.  I still have some more cleaning of the anti corrosion and some paint drops off, but I am much happier with spending 600 for the new bed and lead screw. Now I have to find some paint, start disassembling the cabinet, sandblast and reassemble.  I am also going to pull the motor and have new bearings, brushes and start capacitor put in.  I am also looking at getting a test bar for the head and tailstocks, they are REALLY expensive but it will ensure that I am within .0005 in a foot for headstock alignment......  It will probably take all summer but I think I now have a keeper.  Tim


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## astjp2 (Mar 9, 2014)

Well I think I found a tail stock turret and a milling attachment.  The guy with the milling attachment is asking 400, I think that is too much so I only offered 300.  It looks rough but I think I can make it useable.  The turret attachment is 300, but I am not sure if its off of a Rockwell or not, I need to find some measurements to compare it to or at leas see if it fits the ways.  Tim


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## astjp2 (Mar 9, 2014)

I went out to the shop and scraped the weird few drops of what looked like yellow paint and some gray overspray off and did some good measuring, it has a little wear but I found .0014 on the thickness of the rear way where the saddle gib wears, and there is less than .001 from what I can measure on the front inverted v way.  Once its on the table is mounted and the bed is leveled, I think I will get a better feel for the alignment.  Right now its sitting on my surface plate and rocks back and forth some, the surface plate is not quite long enough for me to get the leveler feet down and the table sitting flat.  I finished measuring and wiped some way oil on the ways and called it a night.  I am glad I built the tools to measure the ways and got the surface plate.  Bebop was very helpful in verifying my surface plate and I am comfortable that I am measuring things correctly.  Tim


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## astjp2 (Mar 24, 2014)

I added a new feature to my lathe, now I just need to decide if it is going to fit....What sayeth the tribe?  This thing is real cool, it advances the indexing when you retract it fully and then you can set the depth with the set screws on the right side.  I am not sure if this had the right height yet, if not, I will be looking to pass it on to the next person.  I wonder what lathe has similar width ways but taller inverted V...
Tim


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## thenrie (Mar 25, 2014)

I think that's going to be a lot of work to get it lined up properly, looking at the way it fits (or not) on the ways.


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## astjp2 (Mar 30, 2014)

thenrie said:


> I think that's going to be a lot of work to get it lined up properly, looking at the way it fits (or not) on the ways.


 Yeah, its over an inch high and to the rear about a quarter of an inch.  I think I just wasted a whole bunch of money for something that wont work.  Now to find someone who needs it.  Tim


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## astjp2 (May 3, 2014)

I made a few purchases this week, I bought a Jacobs flex collet chuck and collet set on ebay, there was a metric transposing gear set and I bought a brand new Taiwanese 5c collet closer.  I now have every option that came with an 11" Rockwell lathe.  When I get pictures, I will post them.  Tim


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## thenrie (May 3, 2014)

I've been looking at collet closers lately. Hurry up with the pics. I want to see what you got!

Tim, did you end up with a BXA or AXA QC toolpost? There is a BXA right now on ebay I have been thinking about bidding on. I have never used one, and I'm afraid the BXA might be a little large for the DR11.


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## wa5cab (May 4, 2014)

thenrie,

In my opinion, a BXA is too large for a 12".  So it would follow that it would be too large for an 11".  I know of a guy in Australia who came across a good deal up here (in the USA) on a BXA and bought it for his Atlas 10".  His comment after receiving it was that the extremely high cost of shipping made it financially impractical to return the BXA, so he was going to have to make do.  But that he really wished he had bought an AXA.  I know two or three people with Atlas 12" who bought BXA and claim that it works.  But I always suspected that they would have been happier with AXA and just didn't want to say so.

I have an AXA on my 12" Atlas 3996 (sometimes called the "Commercial).  You can now buy oversize 101 and 102 tool holders for the AXA toolpost if you have need to hold 5/8" tooling.  The standard holders will hold up to 1/2" although they were nominally designed for 3/8", which is mostly what I use.  

Robert D.


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## astjp2 (May 4, 2014)

I bought the DTM BXA wedge type, I wanted the rigidity that it has over the AXA.  We have lathes with both at work and the amount of beef was something that I wanted to see how different it is.  It took some milling work to get the post to fit, but I think I am ok so far.  I wont know for sure until I get it back together.  I still have a lot of teardown and cleanup on the cabinet and spindle to accomplish.  Replacing the bed upon reassembly and hot tanking the castings for the carriage and apron sure made it nice to work on.  Now I just need to start pressing in bushings, reaming and then reassemble the apron.  I am also going to scrape in the saddle, it had some serious wear and was rocking  on the bed, much of that was gone and now its just finish up work.  School and my day job has been getting in the way of more important things like my lathe project.  Tim


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## thenrie (May 4, 2014)

Thanks for that info Robert. I have read where others have preferred the AXA over the BXA for South Bend 10", Delta Rockwell 10", and the Atlas 10-12" lathes, but others are on the fence as far as the DR11 and South Bend 13" lathes. The 11" Delta Rockwell is a more substantial lathe than the Atlas, logans, and South Bends of similar size, though, which is why I asked Tim. I thought I recalled he had bought a BXA, and was looking for info from someone with a BXA on a Rockwell 11. Oh well, I'll have to wait until he gets done to find out:whistle:. I think I will pass on this BXA I was looking at and get an AXA. If I find it too small, which I doubt, I'll put it on my South Bend 9A and get a BXA for the Rockwell.

Keep at it, Tim. Couple more months and I may be out in your neck of the woods.


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## astjp2 (May 7, 2014)

I got my 5c closer in today, made in Taiwan by a company called Top Spin Automation.  Nice looking unit, it was designed for the Jet 1340 lathes so hopefully I can adapt it to fit.  It may need to be machined some but for the price for a new part that looks like it should I cant complain.

http://www.topspincnc.com/categories/Workholding/5C-Collet-Closer-(Manual)/


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## astjp2 (May 11, 2014)

Ok, so the drawbar is like 2' long, how do I go about shortening it?  What else do I need to do to make this fit?  It a nice unit but where should I start with this project?  Tim


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## JimDawson (May 11, 2014)

astjp2 said:


> Ok, so the drawbar is like 2' long, how do I go about shortening it?  What else do I need to do to make this fit?  It a nice unit but where should I start with this project?  Tim



You're right.  That won't fit your lathe.  Just send it to me and I'll take good care of it.:lmao:


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## astjp2 (May 12, 2014)

for 499 plus shipping, its yours!:victory:


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## astjp2 (Jun 8, 2014)

Well I have been trying to get ahold of Dick Triemstra to get the last parts that I know I need, for some reason he has not been answering the phone.  Frustration is setting in...


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## thenrie (Jun 10, 2014)

I recently sent emails to both Joe and Dick and didn't get a reply from either one. Busy, I guess.


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## astjp2 (Aug 27, 2014)

So I found that in the Rockwell manual, it says that you are supposed to bore the head piece of the turret tailstock so it will be matched to the spindle bore.  Upon further research, I was able to find out that I can machine the base and make a new top piece and have a useable piece.  Now I just need to find a mill large enough to make new parts!  :roflmao: and modify the base to fit my bed...


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## astjp2 (Nov 9, 2014)

I am so needing to get going on this project, maybe someday I will get all of the options done.  I think I need to call call Dick Treimstra and get the parts to rebuild my qcgb.  That and a coat of paint, I am ready to get moving on this project.  Tim


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## thenrie (Nov 10, 2014)

I just bought a house in Salem,Ut. It has a small workshop with a perfect spot for my lathe. Hopefully I'll be getting it out of storage within the next two or three weeks. Once I do I'll look you up and we'll get together and compare notes.


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## astjp2 (Nov 15, 2014)

Ok, we can do that...maybe we can swap some ideas, I have a few extra collet holder parts and maybe we can trade for some modification I need to have done.  Do you have a good selection of tooling, holders, and options?  I am continually adding to my collection.  Maybe you can provide some advice on tearing the head down also....Tim


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## astjp2 (Dec 10, 2014)

Well I am getting a NOS QCGB for my lathe, I figure its saving me about 3 days labor to just change it and I am sending my old one back as a core.  Well at least now all I have left to do the the varidrive and spindle to get apart and figure out what is wrong.  I am way too much into this lathe but I hope it will be almost perfect when its done.  Tim


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## astjp2 (Dec 23, 2014)

Well I could not stand it anymore and got a medium level Newall DP900 DRO for my lathe.  It came with  Microysn 5um scale for the crossfeed and a 10um scale for the carriage.  I made an offer on ebay for 1250 and they took it.  Now I just need to get my lathe done.....Tim

http://www.atechauthority.com/products.asp?id=442

p.s. my wife is going to be ****** if she finds out I have another attachment for my lathe that I have to finish paying for....


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## thenrie (Jan 19, 2015)

Hey, Tim. Haven't forgotten you. I just got my lathe home and into its spot in the miniature workshop I now have. Likely to be a couple months before I get it set up and running again, though. I am up to my ears in alligators right now. Once things settle down I'll get in touch with you and we can do lunch or something.


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## astjp2 (Feb 28, 2015)

So my new bed needs to get cleaned up, I am thinking maybe hot tank or chemical stripping?  What sayeth the tribe?  Tim


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## thenrie (Mar 2, 2015)

astjp2 said:


> So my new bed needs to get cleaned up, I am thinking maybe hot tank or chemical stripping?  What sayeth the tribe?  Tim


Take a look at my thread. It hasn't been active for a while, but you should be able to find it (can't recall what the title is right now). I built a long box out of plywood, lined it with 4-mil plastic, then filled it with several gallons of EvapoRust from Harbor Freight. I laid a couple 1 x 1" stickers in the bottom to keep the bed off the bottom of the box, then laid the bed in upside down (bed rails down) and let it sit overnight. I think it did a pretty good job of de-rusting the bed. You could turn it over or lay it on its side to strip old paint off it. The EvapoRust will soften paint so that it can be easily remove with a wire brush (wear eye protection).


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## astjp2 (Jul 2, 2015)

Well I have to stop buying accessories for my lathe, I just had to buy a Versa Mill.  We had one in my old army unit and I fell in love with it.  now I just need to get it sent from San Diego to Salt Lake.  Tim


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## thenrie (Oct 12, 2015)

Hey, Tim. Still have your lathe? I put mine up for sale a couple months ago. Had one looker, but that just got my juices stirred up again. I just bought a 5-C collet closer, spindle thread protector, and collet adapter set off ebay. Who knows? Maybe I'll actually start making some chips with it pretty soon.


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## astjp2 (Jan 2, 2016)

Well I have been using the winter holiday break at work to work on my lathe.  Whoever says that they can scrape something in in an hour and only just learned how is full of crap.  I have about 18 hours in scraping in my saddle and crossfeed, only 1/4 of the surfaces of the crossfeed is even close.  I have been switching off between the biax and hand scraping.  I stopped by Bebops and he gave me a few more pointers.  Here are some pics of my progress.  Tim


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