# New Clausing 6913 -  Gear box engagement lever fixed!!!!



## Dhector

Hello. I'm new to the forum and new to lathes. Bought an atlas 3950( and everything I could find for it) and have been having a blast with it!!! I just purchased a clausing 6913 for 400.00. They wanted 300.00 but I figured it was worth more than that so I gave a little extra to them. "They wanted it to go to a good home and put a few bucks in the trust fund"  A friend of mine passed away and it was his. I have very little experience with lathes and have some questions on it. I need a few more posts to put pictures out there so if I spam this thread a little bit I apologize in advance. I cant even plug it in yet, need to get my electrician over here to see what we have. Any pro's and cons you guys know of with this lathe? Once I get enough posts Ill put some pics out and see what you guys can tell me. Thank you.


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## Dhector

How do you upload pictures?


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## wa5cab

DHector,

Write your reply in the field at the bottom of the thread, down to the point where you want a photo.  Position the cursor where you want the first photo to appear, and click UPLOAD A FILE.  Navigate (on your local machine) to the file and double click it.  Repeat if necessary.  Before you click the REPLY TO THREAD button to save your post, click on either the THUMBNAIL or the FULL SIZE buttons.  Generally, use the THUMBNAIL choice if you have several photos or FULL SIZE for one or two.  But there is no hard and fast rule.

After you have saved your message, you have AFAIK 24 hours during which you can edit it.


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## Dhector

attempt number 1


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## Dhector

Not sure what these are or do. Any ideas? Good setup? Bad setup?


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## Dhector

Good chuck?


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## woodchucker

Thats a variable frequency drive I believe, so you can dial in any speed you want.
I see a taper attachment... You got a good machine.
Tear it down and rebuild it to learn how it works and clean it up.


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## Dhector

Not sure on what these  are? Do they belong to this machine? Missing parts?


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## woodchucker

you should have 3 more jaws with that chuck.. it's a six jaw, and yes it's a good chuck


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## Dhector




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## woodchucker

Dhector said:


> View attachment 232287
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> Not sure on what these  are? Do they belong to this machine? Missing parts?


yes that's a draw bar w/quick change for the collets. The switch is the old switch before the variable freq drive. #1 is for the collets, #2 looks like either the other 3 jaws for the chuck, or soft jaws.


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## Dhector




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## woodchucker

Dhector said:


> View attachment 232287
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> Not sure on what these  are? Do they belong to this machine? Missing parts?


everything there is from the lathe.


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## JimDawson

You bought a nice lathe there and got a screaming deal on it.  Just that 6 jaw chuck is worth more that you paid for everything.  Lots of useful tooling, stuff you don't normally see.


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## wa5cab

Dhector said:


> View attachment 232287
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> Not sure on what these  are? Do they belong to this machine? Missing parts?



#1 and the lower item in #8 look like collet closers or adapters.  The upper item in #8 might be a thread protector.  If it will screw onto the right end of the spindle, that's probably what it is.  The long tube (no number) right-center of the photo with the lever attached is a lever-type collet closer.  Worth about half of what you paid for the whole lot.  It inserts into the spindle from the left end and screws onto the left end of the spindle.  A collet closer or adapter would be inserted firmly into the spindle taper (after screwing on the thread protector).  A collet would be inserted into the closer with the longitudinal slot in the collet aligned with the short pin inside the closer.  You twist something on the left end of the attachment to screw the tube onto the collet.  When properly adjusted (tube screwed onto collet the proper amount, you slide a workpiece into the collet and move the lever to draw the collet closed on the workpiece.  Moving the lever in the other direction releases the collet from the workpiece.

#5 is a single diameter (they are also made to cover a range of diameters) Pin Spanner.  Used to turn, tighten or loosen something round with a hole in its OD for the pin.


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## woodchucker

BTW you get a BIG YOU SUCK ..
Great deal


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## Dhector

Sweet, thank you. Is there a manual out there for tear down and rebuild or just use the owners manual(had clausing email one to me yesterday, just haven't read through it completely.) Also that is everything that came with it. I don't have any collets. What kind of oil goes in the gear boxes or is all that stated in the op manual? Thanks for all the help.


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## Dhector

woochucker said:


> BTW you get a BIG YOU SUCK ..
> Great deal


I figured I got a great deal and was waiting for that reply!!!


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## Dhector

wa5cab said:


> #1 and the lower item in #8 look like collet closers or adapters.  The upper item in #8 might be a thread protector.  If it will screw onto the right end of the spindle, that's probably what it is.  The long tube (no number) right-center of the photo with the lever attached is a lever-type collet closer.  Worth about half of what you paid for the whole lot.  It inserts into the spindle from the left end and screws onto the left end of the spindle.  A collet closer or adapter would be inserted firmly into the spindle taper (after screwing on the thread protector).  A collet would be inserted into the closer with the longitudinal slot in the collet aligned with the short pin inside the closer.  You twist something on the left end of the attachment to screw the tube onto the collet.  When properly adjusted (tube screwed onto collet the proper amount, you slide a workpiece into the collet and move the lever to draw the collet closed on the workpiece.  Moving the lever in the other direction releases the collet from the workpiece.
> 
> #5 is a single diameter (they are also made to cover a range of diameters) Pin Spanner.  Used to turn, tighten or loosen something round with a hole in its OD for the pin.



I figured 5 was just a spanner but I didn't see anywhere that it looked like it would fit. When this whole estate took place there was also a mill(I never saw it though) and wasn't sure if some of the tools went with it possibly. Who knows, the guy that got the mill may have parts for the lathe too. Not sure. This thing is way out of my league but I'll figure it out. I appreciate all the help on this, I really do.


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## woodchucker

I'm pretty sure the spanner is for the nose protector.
is this spindle a cam type of lathe, or is the chuck threaded on


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## Dhector

woochucker said:


> I'm pretty sure the spanner is for the nose protector.
> is this spindle a cam type of lathe, or is the chuck threaded on


Not a clue. Will have to look after lunch. Will try to figure it out later.


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## wa5cab

We have a PDF of a 6900 Series manual in Downloads.  It covers installation, operation and parts.  When you get time, please compare it to what Clausing sent you, including what the first and last pages are.  The one that we have is not quite complete.  Whomever scanned it did not include the front cover,  And ends abruptly at page 38.  According to the TOC, some Tables followed the Accessories section.

As a general statement, none of the machine manufacturers whose manuals I have seen were very good about writing detailed instructions for disassembly or assembly.  Atlas (after they had bought Clausing) did do a few of what they called Technical Bulletins on the Atlas machines.  Perhaps they did some for the Clausing badged machines as well.

As far as collets go, first thing that you need to do (and should do even if you never decide to buy any collets) is to determine what size collets your Collet Attachment fits.  One way to start doing this is to determine what the thread in the ID of the draw tube is (major diameter and threads per inch).  Then in a table of collet dimensions, find the collet or collets that use that thread.  Then confirm by measuring the ID and nose angle of the collet adapter that fits in your spindle nose.


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## scwhite

Dhector said:


> Hello. I'm new to the forum and new to lathes. Bought an atlas 3950( and everything I could find for it) and have been having a blast with it!!! I just purchased a clausing 6913 for 400.00. They wanted 300.00 but I figured it was worth more than that so I gave a little extra to them. "They wanted it to go to a good home and put a few bucks in the trust fund"  A friend of mine passed away and it was his. I have very little experience with lathes and have some questions on it. I need a few more posts to put pictures out there so if I spam this thread a little bit I apologize in advance. I cant even plug it in yet, need to get my electrician over here to see what we have. Any pro's and cons you guys know of with this lathe? Once I get enough posts Ill put some pics out and see what you guys can tell me. Thank you.


I like that lathe I have been looking for one just like it 
   I have found a few .
      It should be a 14" swing 48" center to center 
I like the taper attachment you have on it to 
Most of them you find don't have the taper attachment . 
       A three phase motor is good to 
   Is yours it three phase


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## scwhite

Dhector said:


> Hello. I'm new to the forum and new to lathes. Bought an atlas 3950( and everything I could find for it) and have been having a blast with it!!! I just purchased a clausing 6913 for 400.00. They wanted 300.00 but I figured it was worth more than that so I gave a little extra to them. "They wanted it to go to a good home and put a few bucks in the trust fund"  A friend of mine passed away and it was his. I have very little experience with lathes and have some questions on it. I need a few more posts to put pictures out there so if I spam this thread a little bit I apologize in advance. I cant even plug it in yet, need to get my electrician over here to see what we have. Any pro's and cons you guys know of with this lathe? Once I get enough posts Ill put some pics out and see what you guys can tell me. Thank you.


Welcome to the Hobby Machinist
I am new to


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## Dhector

I found where the spindle wrench goes- It fits the "Face Plate Nut" Not sure if its left or right hand thread on the nut. Cant tell.  

I'm not sure if its a threaded or tapered spindle yet(thinking if I got the face plate nut loose I could get the chuck off and figure that out) I did however look at the 2 jaw chuck(what are they used for? Something special? Seen 3 or more jaw chucks, but never a two) and it is tapered with a keyway in it so I assume the spindle is tapered. The 2 jaw has right hand male threads on it.  

The manual I have is identical to the manual in the download section except for one page showing the base is in mine twice instead of just once in your manual. Collets I will look into later. No need for them that I'm aware for me right now but would like to know what they are. I would be happy to email the manual I have if you want. Send me your address in a PM.

The motor is 3 phase(at least that what it says on the plate, I'm a mechanic, not an electrician so if I'm lying its certainly not intentional )
I believe it is a 14 x 48. I just got it unloaded last night and work is in the way of doing anything with it so I'm sure there will be more questions later. LOTS of cleaning to do on it.
Will put a pic up of specs on electrical box shortly.


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## Dhector

phase converter????


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## scwhite

Dhector said:


> I found where the spindle wrench goes- It fits the "Face Plate Nut" Not sure if its left or right hand thread on the nut. Cant tell.
> 
> I'm not sure if its a threaded or tapered spindle yet(thinking if I got the face plate nut loose I could get the chuck off and figure that out) I did however look at the 2 jaw chuck(what are they you used for? Something special? Seen 3 or more jaw chucks, but never a two) and it is tapered with a keyway in it so I assume the spindle is tapered. The 2 jaw has right hand male threads on it.
> 
> The manual I have is identical to the manual in the download section except for one page showing the base is in mine twice instead of just once in your manual. Collets I will look into later. No need for them that I'm aware for me right now but would like to know what they are. I would be happy to email the manual I have if you want. Send me your address in a PM.
> 
> The motor is 3 phase(at least that what it says on the plate, I'm a mechanic, not an electrician so if I'm lying its certainly not intentional )
> I believe it is a 14 x 48. I just got it unloaded last night and work is in the way of doing anything with it so I'm sure there will be more questions later. LOTS of cleaning to do on it.
> Will put a pic up of specs on electrical box shortly.


I think you have the L-OO taper on that chuck 
That big spanner wrench should fit the nut on your 
Head stock spindle


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## scwhite

Dhector said:


> I figured I got a great deal and was waiting for that reply!!!


You got the best deal I have ever seen next to 
Free or a you can have it if you just come and get it


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## chips&more

Since nobody answered #6 yet. It’s the slave cylinder with hydraulic hose for the vari drive. And #3 is the hand wheel that goes onto the back end of the head stock spindle. In post #12 you have your hand on the spindle clutch. Up is to engage the spindle, in the middle is neutral and down is for brake. And a note on that handle; that lathe handle has a history of being finicky and not staying in the up position! You might need to repair and or adjust it. Same note on the vari drive sleeve set-up. AND YOU GOT A SCREAMING DEAL, YOU SUCK!


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## Dhector

scwhite said:


> You got the best deal I have ever seen next to
> Free or a you can have it if you just come and get it



I knew it was a good deal but, I'm starting to think its better than I imagined. No clue what they are worth to be honest. I know its more than I gave them though. One thing about it though is the guy that passed and owned it, wanted it to go to a good home. My thoughts, kind of like giving your favorite dog to somebody, only certain people are worthy of it. He was a VERY picky perfectionist(all meant in a good way) I have big shoes to fill for his standards but I'm going to do my best to make him proud. I cant even run it yet but its already a member of the family.  That's part of the reason I want help from here. The 3950 I bought was used before it even had its own designated spot. This new one I'm actually kind of nervous turning it on!(not that I can anyway, no 220 yet in the shop, still waiting for my electrician buddy to stop by and see what I need to do) If I do something, like have a setting wrong, this thing looks like it will shred things up. The 3950 would slip a belt in the same case and a lot less dangerous.

The electrical add on's are a concern to me. I was told the original owner had some issues with it. Just knowing the original owner, if .005 was within spec, he'd want it at .0005. So I'm thinking if the electrical boxes make it work with single phase correctly, it may be fine for me, but wasn't close enough for him(hope that makes sense) The guy literally used to work for Martin Marietta and built parts for the space shuttle. I think the word precise was not a strong enough word for him


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## Dhector

chips&more said:


> Since nobody answered #6 yet. It’s the slave cylinder with hydraulic hose for the vari drive. And #3 is the hand wheel that goes onto the back end of the head stock spindle. In post #12 you have your hand on the spindle clutch. Up is to engage the spindle, in the middle is neutral and down is for brake. And a note on that handle; that lathe handle has a history of being finicky and not staying in the up position! You might need to repair and or adjust it. Same note on the vari drive sleeve set-up. AND YOU GOT A SCREAMING DEAL, YOU SUCK!



Does that slave cylinder need to be reinstalled? In post 12 I meant to add a question. It is free. It doesn't turn the rod. I haven't had a chance to put any tools to it and thought maybe it was just loose. I wondered with that electrical stuff he put on it maybe it wasn't needed anymore. Any thoughts? I haven't even been able to turn it on and have all these questions. I wonder how many I'll have after it gets running! Is there a limit in this forum of posting too much?????


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## scwhite

Dhector said:


> I knew it was a good deal but, I'm starting to think its better than I imagined. No clue what they are worth to be honest. I know its more than I gave them though. One thing about it though is the guy that passed and owned it, wanted it to go to a good home. My thoughts, kind of like giving your favorite dog to somebody, only certain people are worthy of it. He was a VERY picky perfectionist(all meant in a good way) I have big shoes to fill for his standards but I'm going to do my best to make him proud. I cant even run it yet but its already a member of the family.  That's part of the reason I want help from here. The 3950 I bought was used before it even had its own designated spot. This new one I'm actually kind of nervous turning it on!(not that I can anyway, no 220 yet in the shop, still waiting for my electrician buddy to stop by and see what I need to do) If I do something, like have a setting wrong, this thing looks like it will shred things up. The 3950 would slip a belt in the same case and a lot less dangerous.
> 
> The electrical add on's are a concern to me. I was told the original owner had some issues with it. Just knowing the original owner, if .005 was within spec, he'd want it at .0005. So I'm thinking if the electrical boxes make it work with single phase correctly, it may be fine for me, but wasn't close enough for him(hope that makes sense) The guy literally used to work for Martin Marietta and built parts for the space shuttle. I think the precise was a strong enough word for him


Did you get a steady rest with it .
     I think you will be happy with this lathe
I have a Clausing 4914 .
     I bought it in a Auction for $325.
       But it was in bad shape real bad shape .
  The motor mount was broke
The idler pulley casting base had to be replaced
All the belts had to be replaced.  the bearings in the motor and the bearings in the idler shaft had to be replaced . Oil cups two of them had to be bought
I had to buy a dog drive plate , I had to buy a 8" four jaw chuck and adapter plate , I bought two adapter
Plates . I bought a used steady rest .
     I bought a Jacobs super chuck for the tail stock
A live center . The dead center and spindle adapter for the dead center . I found a Armstrong  universal lantern tool post kit on eBay and bought it .
     I bought the AXA quick change tool post
And four tool holders two boring bar holders
A complete set of boring bars . Cutoff tool holder
Cutoff blades . A set of  indexable Turning tools
     A lot of HSS tool bits square all sizes from 1/8 to 1/2 . The list his on .
      $6000. Plus in it now


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## scwhite

Dhector said:


> Does that slave cylinder need to be reinstalled? In post 12 I meant to add a question. It is free. It doesn't turn the rod. I haven't had a chance to put any tools to it and thought maybe it was just loose. I wondered with that electrical stuff he put on it maybe it wasn't needed anymore. Any thoughts? I haven't even been able to turn it on and have all these questions. I wonder how many I'll have after it gets running! Is there a limit in this forum of posting too much?????


Not that I know of I think you get page after page on your thread


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## scwhite

woochucker said:


> I'm pretty sure the spanner is for the nose protector.
> is this spindle a cam type of lathe, or is the chuck threaded on


That spindle will be a L- 00 taper 
It will have a big nut behind the taper on the spindle 
Just in front of the head stock


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## chips&more

Dhector said:


> Does that slave cylinder need to be reinstalled? In post 12 I meant to add a question. It is free. It doesn't turn the rod. I haven't had a chance to put any tools to it and thought maybe it was just loose. I wondered with that electrical stuff he put on it maybe it wasn't needed anymore. Any thoughts? I haven't even been able to turn it on and have all these questions. I wonder how many I'll have after it gets running! Is there a limit in this forum of posting too much?????


Does the lathe have the same handle on the right side of the carriage? If so, what does it do?


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## chips&more

I would like to please see a picture of the left end of the lathe with both the top and bottom covers off, thank you. I can better help you if I can get that pic.


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## Dhector

chips&more said:


> Does the lathe have the same handle on the right side of the carriage? If so, what does it do?


It does have another handle on the right side and it does turn the square shaft. The right hand lever has a square hole in it, the left side appears to be a round hole.


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## Dhector

chips&more said:


> I would like to please see a picture of the left end of the lathe with both the top and bottom covers off, thank you. I can better help you if I can get that pic.


I will get pics tomorrow for you. I certainly appreciate everyone's help with this.


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## Dhector

scwhite said:


> Did you get a steady rest with it .
> I think you will be happy with this lathe
> I have a Clausing 4914 .
> I bought it in a Auction for $325.
> But it was in bad shape real bad shape .
> The motor mount was broke
> The idealr pulley casting base had to be replaced
> All the belts had to be replaced the bearings in the motor and the bearings in the idealr shaft had to be replaced . Oil cups two of them had to be bought
> I had to buy a dog drive plate , I had to buy a 8" four jaw chuck and adaptor plate , I bought two adaptor
> Plates . I bought a used steady rest .
> I bought a Jacobs super chuck for the tail stock
> A live center . The dead center and spindle adaptor for the dead center . I found a Armstrong  universal lantern tool post kit on eBay and bought it .
> I bought the AXA quick change tool post
> And four tool holders two boring bar holders
> A complete set of boring bars . Cutoff tool holder
> Cutoff blades . A set of  indexable Turning tools
> A lot of HSS tool bits square all sizes from 1/8 to 1/2 . The list his on .
> $6000. Plus in it now


I'm on my phone so I may miss some info. I did not get a steady rest. Basically the pics I sent was all of the parts I got. 
One other question I forgot to ask is I got a 2 mt live center, but it doesn't fit anything in it. Still.confused about that. Any ideas?


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## chips&more

Dhector said:


> It does have another handle on the right side and it does turn the square shaft. The right hand lever has a square hole in it, the left side appears to be a round hole.


OK then, on an OEM Clausing 6900 series both handles are common to the same square shaft. Maybe your left handle is missing or has a sheared pin? You will need to look at it. Sorry, I can only guess. Or maybe the previous owner had other ideas for the handle?


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## chips&more

Dhector said:


> I'm on my phone so I may miss some info. I did not get a steady rest. Basically the pics I sent was all of the parts I got.
> One other question I forgot to ask is I got a 2 mt live center, but it doesn't fit anything in it. Still.confused about that. Any ideas?


It’s not confusing, we can help with that. The tail stock has a #3 Morse. So yes, that live center will not fit the way it is. All you need is a 2 to 3 Morse sleeve. You got a taper attachment but no steady rest???? It’s usually the other way around. Did you look ALL over the persons shop for it? That steady rest is going to be $$$.


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## Silverbullet

You must be livin right. Not a deal a steal , from what I see a good cleaning should be all it needs. Your LATHES completely set up , the same machine with next to no tooling or wired to a vfd . I've just got to say welcome and you suck . YUPP most valuable deal


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## scwhite

chips&more said:


> It’s not confusing, we can help with that. The tail stock has a #3 Morse. So yes, that live center will not fit the way it is. All you need is a 2 to 3 Morse sleeve. You got a taper attachment but no steady rest???? It’s usually the other way around. Did you look ALL over the persons shop for it? That steady rest is going to be $$$.


Yep that Taper attachment is worth $1500. Buy it self .


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## Dhector

scwhite said:


> Did you get a steady rest with it .
> I think you will be happy with this lathe
> I have a Clausing 4914 .
> I bought it in a Auction for $325.
> But it was in bad shape real bad shape .
> The motor mount was broke
> The idealr pulley casting base had to be replaced
> All the belts had to be replaced the bearings in the motor and the bearings in the idealr shaft had to be replaced . Oil cups two of them had to be bought
> I had to buy a dog drive plate , I had to buy a 8" four jaw chuck and adaptor plate , I bought two adaptor
> Plates . I bought a used steady rest .
> I bought a Jacobs super chuck for the tail stock
> A live center . The dead center and spindle adaptor for the dead center . I found a Armstrong  universal lantern tool post kit on eBay and bought it .
> I bought the AXA quick change tool post
> And four tool holders two boring bar holders
> A complete set of boring bars . Cutoff tool holder
> Cutoff blades . A set of  indexable Turning tools
> A lot of HSS tool bits square all sizes from 1/8 to 1/2 . The list his on .
> $6000. Plus in it now



No steady rest unfortunately. I did look through the shop but it was kind of mayhem in there. After he passed I think while the stuff that was willed away was being moved everything in the way got shifted to the side, repeatedly. It was not easy to get around or get to anything really. I did briefly look around but didn't see anything that appeared to be machining tools of any sort. Not saying they may not be in a box on a shelf though either. Going to get in touch again and give him some thing to keep an eye out for.

I bought an atlas 3950 originally and got educated on the cost of these things so I feel your pain. It was used to build fishing poles from what I was told. I used it for a while and even cut threads!!! Not intentionally but hey, i'm new to it!!! At least it looked sort of like threads, maybe 14.7 TPI or 16.3 TPT not sure, my thread pitch gauges didn't match up, and sharp as hell!! ;-) I bought more stuff on ebay and got twice the price in tools than I payed for the lathe!!!!


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## Dhector




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## chips&more

Thank you for the pics. The hydraulic linkage has been removed from the vari speed feature. The speed dial on top of the head stock will not work at present. But that may have been done on purpose. Maybe the previous owner abandoned the vari drive and instead used the VFD to change speeds.


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## Dhector

chips&more said:


> Thank you for the pics. The hydraulic linkage has been removed from the vari speed feature. The speed dial on top of the head stock will not work at present. But that may have been done on purpose. Maybe the previous owner abandoned the vari drive and instead used the VFD to change speeds.



VFD? Variable feed drive??? Whats it stand for. Is that the white electrical box on the top youre referring to?


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## BGHansen

VFD is variable frequency drive.  It changes the frequency of the feed going to the motor to vary its speed.  Normal line voltage is 60 Hz; your VFD will probably let you vary from around 5 Hz to 200 Hz.  End result for the motor is it will turn at 1/12 the speed ( 5 Hz / 60 Hz times motor speed at 60) at the low end around around triple at the high end.  The VFD will also take single phase voltage and convert it to 3-phase for your stock 3-phase motor.  

By the way, there are a few links out there on guys fiddling with the hydraulic variable speed drive.  The VFD will be much less hassle.  You'll really enjoy that lathe.  I have a #5418 from around 1963 that came from a high school shop.  Really solid, well built machine.

Bruce


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## Dhector

The VFD will also take single phase voltage and convert it to 3-phase for your stock 3-phase motor. 

This I find very interesting. What I'm understanding is plug it in and try with that VFD on it and it should be good to run it that way? This was one of my main concerns when I got this thing(electricity is NOT my major) It kind of scares me actually(unless its motorcycles or atv's, then I'm fine) My electrician hasn't been by yet so thanks for answering that question. Now I need to blow his phone up and get me some 220 in here!!!


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## wa5cab

DH,

On the manual, that is the same as the one here and in Downloads.  Except that I spotted the extra out of place page and deleted it. That does tell me where my copy originally came from, though.


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## chips&more

You have a very powerful machine. The OEM came with a 3HP motor. Please be careful. It can easily wind you up like a ball of cotton candy if you get too close to the spindle and or exposed drive. PLEASE BE CAREFUL!


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## mksj

So you have a AC Tech - SM230S VFD, which is a 3 Hp single phase input model.You will need to have it connected to something like a 30a 240VAC dual pole breaker with 10AWG wire going to the machine.  The machine has an input line reactor installed, which is wired prior to the the VFD, this provides some reserve/smoothing for the the input current and can help tame transient spikes. Your incoming power would connect to this and not the VFD. Uncommon on this size machine, but looks like a very clean install. Once powered up you will need to figure out the controls, it appears that he is using a remote VFD panel to run the VFD. I would want to see some form of E-Stop if not equipped, and you will need to see how the machine operates. Most likely the motor is likely a stock (or non-inverter rated) unit, so the maximum speed (Hz is probably set for 60-80Hz, wouldn't want to go above that unless you have an inverter motor, and one needs to be cognizant of the maximum lathe speed so you may want to get a tach at some point). Lower end of the speed range is probably around 20Hz.

Attached you will find the VFD users  manual and the remote keypad instructions. I would have the electrician power up everything and then go over the VFD operations with you. Most likely the previous owner had everything programmed, so should be ready to run.

Very nice score, I am sure it will be a very nice lathe that you got at an unbelievable price.


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## Dhector

I will reply later. Electrician is here now. He set it up and it runs but having some issues with feed screw. There seems to be an issue with the cradle lock assy. The cover fell off when I pulled out of the original owners yard but I saw it fall and grabbed it. Thanks again all. Will have to look at it more another day. Too tired to figure it out now.

I will be care full with it. I knew it is a lot more power full than I know.


----------



## scwhite

wa5cab said:


> DH,
> 
> On the manual, that is the same as the one here and in Downloads.  Except that I spotted the extra out of place page and deleted it. That does tell me where my copy originally came from, though.


----------



## Dhector

mksj said:


> So you have a AC Tech - SM230S VFD, which is a 3 Hp single phase input model.You will need to have it connected to something like a 30a 240VAC dual pole breaker with 10AWG wire going to the machine.  The machine has an input line reactor installed, which is wired prior to the the VFD, this provides some reserve/smoothing for the the input current and can help tame transient spikes. Your incoming power would connect to this and not the VFD. Uncommon on this size machine, but looks like a very clean install. Once powered up you will need to figure out the controls, it appears that he is using a remote VFD panel to run the VFD. I would want to see some form of E-Stop if not equipped, and you will need to see how the machine operates. Most likely the motor is likely a stock (or non-inverter rated) unit, so the maximum speed (Hz is probably set for 60-80Hz, wouldn't want to go above that unless you have an inverter motor, and one needs to be cognizant of the maximum lathe speed so you may want to get a tach at some point). Lower end of the speed range is probably around 20Hz.
> 
> Attached you will find the VFD users  manual and the remote keypad instructions. I would have the electrician power up everything and then go over the VFD operations with you. Most likely the previous owner had everything programmed, so should be ready to run.
> 
> Very nice score, I am sure it will be a very nice lathe that you got at an unbelievable price.



We got the machine running. And by we I mean the electrician got It going. He had to change some of the wiring on the motor as it must not have been connected correctly. He programmed the controller according to the book. Currently the low end is set at 10hz, and the high end is set at 60hz. He was having trouble with the reverse/forward button though. He had to go into the menu(mode??) to change the direction of rotation. We thought it should be able to just stop the motor and switch direction with one push of the button but it doesn't work that way. Were going to look into that later some more.

The cover on the cradle lock assembly or gearbox engaging lever(as the book states it called) fell off when I left his yard but I saw it and grabbed it. The lever with the coil spring in it. It doesn't seem to be engaging correctly. We are having some issues with it. It doesn't seem to engage correctly. Will look at all this later and see what we can figure out. It sounds pretty good while its running.


----------



## wa5cab

Dhector said:


> Is there a limit in this forum of posting too much?????



No.  I have seen old posts that exceed 20 pages.  However, in most cases if you read the first two or three posts and then go and read the last few, you usually find that something commonly called "thread hijacking" has occurred.  Meaning that for example if the thread started off talking about one machine, at the end it is talking about a different one.  In those cases, it would have been better had the person with the different machine started a new thread.  But that hasn't happened here.  So carry on to your heart's content.


----------



## mksj

The easiest way to change the 3 phase motor direction is to switch any two wires at the motor terminals OR VFD motor output terminals. The direction should be such that when you activate the Jog the machine will turn forward.

Remote VFD panels are OK for continuous run setups, but not for frequent start/stops and direction changes. I would recommend that you look into a simple 3 wire connection setup which would use larger momentary buttons for the run and stop functions,  and a separate forward/reverse toggle or rotary switch. A speed pot would also be needed. Everything can be mounted in a small enclosure, probably $75-100 in parts. This VFD is limited as far as programmability and inputs, so it would be more difficult to do anything more elaborate. If the lathe had a functional spindle switched, it could be used but you would need a more elaborate control board with relays and a separate power supply.  Normal 2 wire VFD control directly connected to the VFD inputs is very dangerous because the machine will startup when power is applied if the spindle lever was in the forward/reverse position.

There are a few programming parameters they may require some adjustments, so both acceleration and electronic braking/method should be checked so the machines stops withing about 3 seconds.


----------



## wa5cab

mksj said:


> Attached you will find the VFD users  manual and the remote keypad instructions..



I uploaded the two files to DOWNLOADS.  To find, search for AC Tech.  (NOTE:  The Search button sometimes brings up the entry screen for searching posts.  The screen that you want near the bottom has a line already checked that says "Search Downloads Only". For some unknown glitchy reason, the screen with "Search this category only"  insists on coming up more often than not).


----------



## RWL

Dhector said:


> View attachment 232287
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure on what these  are? Do they belong to this machine? Missing parts?



#7 is a spare hydraulic hose that goes from the speed control on top of the lathe to the spindle where the two pulley sheaves slide closer and farther apart to change the speed of the spindle.

#5 Spanner looks small for the spanner you need to remove the chuck from the L00 spindle but it might be.  The spindle nose is tapered and the chucks are held onto the spindle with a large round nut of about 6" diameter that has a series of holes in it.  You put a spanner on that nut and turn it to release or tighten it.

#3 goes on the outboard side of the spindle.  It makes it easy to turn the spindle by hand whan you want to turn it a little.

#1,8,6 look like they all are part of the collet close system.

#4 is a two jaw chuck

The item to the left of the 2 jaw chuck looks like a quick change toolpost laid on its side

The item between #3 and the handle of the collet closer looks like a micrometer stop.  It clamps to the bed of the lathe and keeps you from moving the carriage too far when you're turning to a shoulder.


----------



## Dhector

Is there a special application for a 2 jaw chuck?
Recommendation on tooling bits?  HSS, inserts??
Too many for me to understand. I don't want a 500.00 dollar set, but I also don't want a 5.00 set. The best bang for the buck maybe?
Brand and where to purchase. I have used travers in the past, are they a good source or is there a better one?


----------



## Moshe

Here is a PDF for the 6913 lathe.  Hope you find it useful.  I almost bought a very used on for $800 at the beginning of the Great Recession and I was sorry I passed on it later.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-6913-Lathe/Clausing-6913-Lathe-Manual.pdf

Igor rebuilt a 6913 so take a look at his website.
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-6913-Lathe/


----------



## Dhector

Hello again. I've spent the last 2 afternoons cleaning this thing up. Lot of work!!! Does anyone know what tool post this is? I have one broken attachment and it seems solid. Might try to replace the broken one.


----------



## Dhector

Does anyone have experience with this gear box engagement assembly? I have had it in and out of the machine at least 30 times trying to make it work. It was loose when I got it(the bolts holding it to the gearbox were about to fall out and the box was out of oil, the cover fell off on to the trailer when I pulled out of his yard to. I got it to work, but it doesn't seem correct. The way it feels now is like the coil spring inside it is useless. I'm sure its in there for a reason. I just want it correct and I don't believe it is right now, although it works good. One part according to the parts diagram was in wrong. One other part inside the cover had signs of pliers on it to so I'm assuming he was having trouble with it as well. Thanks again!


----------



## scwhite

Dhector said:


> View attachment 232582
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have experience with this gear box engagement assembly? I have had it in and out of the machine at least 30 times trying to make it work. It was loose when I got it(the bolts holding it to the gearbox were about to fall out and the box was out of oil, the cover fell off on to the trailer when I pulled out of his yard to. I got it to work, but it doesn't seem correct. The way it feels now is like the coil spring inside it is useless. I'm sure its in there for a reason. I just want it correct and I don't believe it is right now, although it works good. One part according to the parts diagram was in wrong. One other part inside the cover had signs of pliers on it to so I'm assuming he was having trouble with it as well. Thanks again!


I don't know your machine gear box 
But you are doing right . Keep looking at drawings 
Parts brake downs . Asking questions until you are satisfied that it is working right just the way it should .  Never give up or settle for oh well that's good enough


----------



## Dhector

I won't give up. Too stubborn I'm going to call clausing tomorrow and see what they say so I have my fingers crossed at the moment. Hopefully some food news from them.


----------



## chips&more

Dhector said:


> View attachment 232582
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have experience with this gear box engagement assembly? I have had it in and out of the machine at least 30 times trying to make it work. It was loose when I got it(the bolts holding it to the gearbox were about to fall out and the box was out of oil, the cover fell off on to the trailer when I pulled out of his yard to. I got it to work, but it doesn't seem correct. The way it feels now is like the coil spring inside it is useless. I'm sure its in there for a reason. I just want it correct and I don't believe it is right now, although it works good. One part according to the parts diagram was in wrong. One other part inside the cover had signs of pliers on it to so I'm assuming he was having trouble with it as well. Thanks again!


Going by memory so bear with me. You pull on the knurled part of that handle to disengage the handle so you can turn/change the numbered dial in front. If you try and push down on that knurled handle assembly it will want to spring back up, more so at the bottom of its travel. This part is iffy memory. Just behind that handle is a safety ratchet mechanism so that in the event of a crash when feeding/threading, it spins. The lathe also has safety/soft pins in the right places. And the handle should be at more like 5 Oclock in the locked position. You have it at 12.


----------



## Dhector

That sounds correct. When you push the handle down, it raises a set of gears in the gearbox to engage the feed screw. The handle that pulls, disengages a pin that matches up to a notch in the housing it rotates on. allowing the internal gearset to rotate down and disengage the feed screw. It does have a ratcheting mechanism as well inside it(one way clutch type of set up) The handle will lock in the 5 oclock position, where its at now it is just disengaged at the time of the pic. The spring inside the mechanism doesn't seem to do anything(there is no tension on the handle from spring pressure) It SEEMS to me it needs to be assembled and maybe pre-tensioned while installing to make it all work correctly but I haven't been able to find the sequence or order. Its got me baffled.


----------



## Dhector

Her is the mechanism giving me trouble. It appears everything Is there. It just doesn't function correctly. Will post a pic of the gears it rotates to engage the feed screw shortly.


PAGE 22 in the Clausing 6900 Series Lathes Manual
It can be zoomed in enough to read from across the room!!!! Its a very large picture in the manual. The manual is at 15% of the original size so you can zoom in a long ways.


http://www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/clausing-6900-series-lathes-manual-pdf.1620/


----------



## Dhector

Circled in red it the gearset that is rotated upwards to engage the feed screw. The items circled in green do the rotating, although this shows only one gear at the right hand end of the gearset engagement lever. My machine has a 2 gears that mesh with both sets of teeth on the rotating gearset(Gear cradle)


PAGE 22 in the Clausing 6900 Series Lathes Manual
It can be zoomed in enough to read from across the room!!!! Its a very large picture in the manual. The manual is at 15% of the original size so you can zoom in a long ways.


http://www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/clausing-6900-series-lathes-manual-pdf.1620/


----------



## chips&more

I understand that it can be challenging sometimes when somebody before you has “touched it”. It’s much easier to fix it when it’s factory original. It’s a good thing you have the parts breakdown docs. And you also have The Hobby Machinist for help. When you have a bit of time, start at it. And take pictures as you go. Be careful of that clock spring. It has a lot of stored energy as it sits. Don’t go and try to take it out. Just look at it. Check its ends and the rest of the spring. Be looking for a break(s) in the coil and or torn ends. Then check the rest of the parts in that assembly for problems or maybe missing stuff. Reference your parts doc as you go and don’t forget the pics and be safe….Good Luck, Dave.


----------



## Dhector

chips&more said:


> I understand that it can be challenging sometimes when somebody before you has “touched it”. It’s much easier to fix it when it’s factory original. It’s a good thing you have the parts breakdown docs. And you also have The Hobby Machinist for help. When you have a bit of time, start at it. And take pictures as you go. Be careful of that clock spring. It has a lot of stored energy as it sits. Don’t go and try to take it out. Just look at it. Check its ends and the rest of the spring. Be looking for a break(s) in the coil and or torn ends. Then check the rest of the parts in that assembly for problems or maybe missing stuff. Reference your parts doc as you go and don’t forget the pics and be safe….Good Luck, Dave.



You got that right! The more I read the more ideas I get on it and how to repair it. I feel I know what to do, just haven't cracked the combination yet. I haven't had much time to mess with it recently. While another machinist was here looking at the lathe problem(or should I say one machinist was here and I was watching!) he mentioned a Bridgeport clone they were trying to sell, so I went and bought it too.      http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/new-msc-mill-to-me.58705/       What a weird month! Just got it unloaded in the shop this morning. Now I have a lot to figure out. Glad it doesn't have power to it yet or I'd be messing with 2 machines instead of one!!!!!!


----------



## chips&more

Dhector said:


> You got that right! The more I read the more ideas I get on it and how to repair it. I feel I know what to do, just haven't cracked the combination yet. I haven't had much time to mess with it recently. While another machinist was here looking at the lathe problem(or should I say one machinist was here and I was watching!) he mentioned a Bridgeport clone they were trying to sell, so I went and bought it too.      http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/new-msc-mill-to-me.58705/       What a weird month! Just got it unloaded in the shop this morning. Now I have a lot to figure out. Glad it doesn't have power to it yet or I'd be messing with 2 machines instead of one!!!!!!


I’m a toolaholic and can normally understand or relate. But what you have just done even makes my eyes roll!!!!


----------



## Dhector

I got the gearbox engagement lever fixed. I would like to thank all that gave input and helped out with this. The feed screw functions correctly now!!!!!!
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 The 2 pins in this picture I made from a Harley Davidson jackshaft gear bolt The cradle lock spring hook(the round part next to the lever and pins with has 2 holes in it) They were 1/8 in diameter but the pins were damaged and so were the holes so I drilled them to 9/64 I also drilled the cover holes as well.






	

		
			
		

		
	
 Over riding clutch


	

		
			
		

		
	
 This spring pin was missing and its what keeps the "gear cradle" from falling below the gear on the end of the engagement assembly(internal) and not allowing it to move the cradle) See pic 11 and 12(2) . Edit- It also has to be cut off a little to allow the cover to go on.


	

		
			
		

		
	
 The spring I was having issues with.


	

		
			
		

		
	
 Pic 6 is the start of winding the spring, move this 180 degrees at least(it will work at 180, I did mine 360 degres and it seems to be ok there to)


	

		
			
		

		
	
 This is after rotating 180 degrees, go another 180 if you like.


	

		
			
		

		
	
 While holding the TENSIONED spring in this location to install the cover.


	

		
			
		

		
	
 Install the cover. Install the jam nut(I used a lock nut, not a nylok and I put it in my little 3950 and made it shorter(so the lock part of the nut gets to the threads on the shaft. Do not tighten it completely, it needs to be snug but allow everything to rotate freely.


	

		
			
		

		
	
 Gear engagement inside the box. This pic shows how the cradle can fall down too far and the engagement assembly cant pick it back up. This was caused by the spring pin being gone. I am going to try and get a close up of the gear mesh and start another post.


----------



## Dhector

Gear mesh problem when cradle drops down too far.


----------



## Dhector

I'm not guaranteeing this is absolutely 100 percent correct. I've called all over the country trying to find any info I can on this with no luck. Kudos to this forum cause I got more off of here and talking to a guy in Denver Colorado that works on lathes than anywhere else!!!!!


----------



## chips&more

It was in jest, you got two machines in one month!


----------



## Dhector

chips&more said:


> It was in jest, you got two machines in one month!



I am shocked as well. First the lathe for cheap with some cool attachments, then the mill. Funny thing about it is it all happened like it was meant to be. The guy that passed, that owned the lathe, was actually the operator of that very mill at his old job. I've been looking for a mill but nothing out there really that we had come across till this. Obviously I needed large equipment to unload it and when I called the guy that I borrowed his front end loader from to unload the lathe, was 100 yards away using the loader and dropped it off. I used it and he needed it again across the road and picked it up. It seems like there was little effort on my part for this entire thing. Everything just went perfect in every aspect. I'm not used to that. Again I appreciate everyone's help on this machine. More cleaning and then its going to get used!!! Great forum and members!!!!


----------



## Dhector

wa5cab said:


> As far as collets go, first thing that you need to do (and should do even if you never decide to buy any collets) is to determine what size collets your Collet Attachment fits.  One way to start doing this is to determine what the thread in the ID of the draw tube is (major diameter and threads per inch).  Then in a table of collet dimensions, find the collet or collets that use that thread.  Then confirm by measuring the ID and nose angle of the collet adapter that fits in your spindle nose.



Collet attachment       Manufactured by Royal Prod.
18 TPI
I.D. 1.193 This measurement is on the "peaks" of the threads. I have nothing to measure the "valley" of the threads.
Length of threads is 1.05 inches
O.D. of tube1.363

I found this collet table from a google search and this came up from practical machinist forum

http://hardingeus.com/usr/pdf/collet/2348F.pdf

This is confusing to me. A little help what I have here please. Do you need anymore measurements? I don't know how to measure the taper(sorry)

Where should one buy a set of these if they wanted some. What I'd like to do if its even possible, is be able to do some small parts like I can on the 3950(I know its overkill, but I'd sell the 3950 and all the attachments if it would be possible and cost effective, not sure I need to own 2 lathes) Thanks again to everyone


----------



## wa5cab

How certain are you that the thread pitch is 18 and not 20?  I searched a several page table of collet dimensions that I have and found seven collets with 18 tpi threads.  Two of them have an OD of around 3/4".  The other five range from about 1-5/8" up to nearly 4".

I still think that you should borrow a 5C collet from someone and see if it doesn't match up to the threads in your draw tube.

One other dimension that you didn't give is the ID of the closer adapter that fits into the spindle taper.  For 5C it will be about 1.255" or a hair less.


----------



## Dhector

I will look next time I get a chance. I was pretty sure 18 was correct but I'll verify. I'm not sure what the closer adapter is but I'll see what I can figure out. Thanks for the help and I'll look tomorrow.


----------



## wa5cab

OK.

The closer adapter usually looks somewhat like a short MT reducer sleeve but with a flange on the large end, and no drive tang.  Inside fits the collet type that it was made for.  Typically the bore from the small end to close to the large end is cylindrical and has a short anti-rotate peg inside near the small end that fits the keyway on the OD of the collet.  At the large end is a short female taper typically between about 11 and 17 degrees each side.


----------



## Dhector

Wow. 20 TPI for sure. Not sure how I screwed that up. 18 isn't even close. I tried to figure out the taper but I will have to find another way. I tried measurements from it and an online calculator but wasn't in the range you stated. It has the marking "C" on it and that's all. I'll see what I can do to figure out the taper.


----------



## wa5cab

Well, never mind the taper.  It turns out that none of the collet dimension listings that I have show the taper for the 5C.  Which I am pretty sure is what you are going to find that your closer adapter and draw tube threads fit.  

The Back Bearing on a conventional type collet (meaning that it is single ended, not double ended like the European ER collets) is the ring adjacent to the threads that centers up the left end of the collet in the closer adapter.  It is smaller than the large end of the taper but either a few thou larger or the same diameter as the majority of the collet.  For 5C, several sources give it as 1.250" diameter.  Tolerance and allowance are't given in any of the tables that I have but your finding that the straight bore is a nominal 1.250" would be correct for a 5C adapter.  A couple of the sources give 1.468" as the diameter of the large end of the relaxed collet.  When you slide a 5C collet into an adapter just until the collet taper touches the adapter taper, the large end is not quite flush with the right end of the adapter.  So your 1.440" for the diameter of the large end of the taper in the adapter is probably close.  Especially as it is nearly impossible to measure the ID of the large end of a taper with ordinary calipers.

Anyway, all of your measurements to me indicate that your setup is for the 5C collets.  As I wrote earlier, borrow a 5C collet and try it.  Or take your draw tube and adapter to a machine shop and ask them to try it.


----------



## machPete99

Those dimensions match the 5c collet adapter for my 5914 lathe. Its 5c on the inside, supposedly MT4.5 on the outside, although it seems that there are different definitions of MT4.5 out there, which may not fit the Calausing, so don't loose it!


----------



## Dhector

machPete99 said:


> Those dimensions match the 5c collet adapter for my 5914 lathe. Its 5c on the inside, supposedly MT4.5 on the outside, although it seems that there are different definitions of MT4.5 out there, which may not fit the Calausing, so don't loose it!



Could you send pics of your setup please? I have an idea in my head what its suppose to look like but I'm new to this and cant say I know for sure. I actually have two of those "Collars" like are in the picture.

I just purchased a Bridgeport clone that came with collets. Anybody ever make an adapter to make Bridgeport collets work on a lathe drawbar(collet closer)? Maybe first project for me? Or first 40 projects, hehe! I did watch "MACHINE SHOP TIPS #152 Poor Man's Collet Attachment for Clausing Lathe tubalcain " Its what gave me the idea of an adapter. What do you think?


----------



## machPete99

I don't currently have the 5c collet closer setup on my lathe but I think the kit was originally made by Royal and looks like this (not mine, see second picture in post #1):

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...t-chuck-faceplates-royal-collet-closer-317528

Attached is a picture of my setup, before I bought the lathe.

I am missing the "nose protector" piece, have most of the rest. The bearing in the lever assembly on mine could use replacing, but looks like it might be something special...

Bridgeport collets would be R8, completely different system, generally not used on a lathe.


----------



## Dhector

More parts have showed up for this lathe. Need some info on what it is and what its used for please. Collet indexer????? I also borrowed  some 5c collets and am going to see if the drawbar will function. I talked to the guy that got the mill from the same owner of the lathe and he said he had a 3 jaw chuck for this lathe to, but I haven't seen it yet. Hoping he has collets in his pile of parts and boxes.






The chuck doesn't fit this lathe and may be for some other lathe. Not sure what it would fit, maybe someone here knows hopefully.


----------



## machPete99

That looks a little bit like a "spin indexer" or spindex, although they usually have a crank handle on the end, that one has a collet clutch lever. There are usually some disks with holes in them that can be attached. Its not generally part of a lathe, usually used on a mill.

See:


----------



## chips&more

That looks like a Hardinge HV-4N. And I’m sure there are other model numbers out there and clones. Very handy indexer, I use mine all the time. That knurled ring on the business end unscrews so you can attach other stuff and not just use the indexer with 5C collets.


----------



## Dhector

Drawbar question. I found a machine shop and borrowed 3  5c collets and the draw bar works like I  think it should. I can get the collet in and out and it all works well. My problem is I have to use an aluminum bar to remove this. I assumed that the drawbar itself would remove it somehow. I have to tap on it with the aluminum bar to remove it and since I'm at the back of the machine, it just flies out and I cant catch it. I put a piece of wood on the bed to try and not damage anything.  Seems like a good way to damage the surfaces in my opinion. There is approximately 1/8 gap between the drawbar end, and the end of the tapered part in the pic when it is installed. The face of the spindle and the bottom face of the part in the pic do not touch when a collet is installed. Can send a pic of installed if it helps. Is this the correct way this functions?


----------



## Dhector

The draw bar has had a collar welded to it also. I  looked at an Ebay auction selling one and its not factory which was obvious when I saw the welds. Is the original collar suppose be the key to removing the part in the pic in the last post(can someone tell me what it is called so I can quit calling it the "part in the pic")       Collet closer??????  Thank you.


----------



## wa5cab

If by "remove this", you mean the collet adapter, and if your spindle has a threaded nose, you are supposed to have a spindle nose protector screwed onto it before you install the adapter.  To remove the adapter, you use a pin spanner on the protector.  With most other types of spindle nose, you need to make an aluminum drift that is longer than the spindle plus closer and a slip fit through the draw tube (a draw bar is solid).  If your arms aren't long enough to stand with left hand on the head of the drift and right hand on the adapter, make a receiver out of a piece of 2" aluminum round bar.  Turn down the left end to just under 1-1/4".  Turn the right end down to a diameter to fit in the drill chuck that probably sits in the tailstock most of the time.  Mount the receiver in the drill chuck, run the ram out about 3", and slide the tailstock over until all but about 1/4" of the left end of the receiver is inside of  the closer adapter.  Free the adapter with the drift.  Retract the ram and remove the adapter from the receiver.


----------



## wa5cab

I assume that you removed the draw tube from the collet closer and that the collar screws onto the left end of the spindle.  If that's so, my guess would be that the closer wasn't originally made to fit the 6900 Series.  And that someone modified it to fit.


----------



## Silverbullet

Your missing the nose protector for use with the collet set up . The piece welded on I think was used to make adjusting the collet holding power when closed. When I had my Sheldon lathe I had a knocker to remove the adapter too. Could you use something to catch it plastic bucket would do.


----------



## machPete99

If you have the spindle nose protector part, it screws on first and unscrewing it will push the collet adapter out.
The nose protector looks kind of like a chuck mounting/adapter plate that has been turned down.


----------



## wa5cab

Pete,

According to the 6900 Series manual copy that we have, they have a keyed taper-lock spindle nose.  Not a threaded one.  If the threaded locking collar is made like the one on another make machine that I've seen, it won't push reliably.

Silverbullet, 

You could be right, although the threaded collar is awfully short for adjusting the draw tube pull.  But the Atlas built lever operated closer that I have that was actually made for the 10" and the much later Royal built one that was actually made for my 12" both have an adjusting nut on the left end of the closer for adjusting the draw tube.  The adjustment range is about 3/4" or so.  Enough that I can run either 3AT or 3C collets.


----------



## Dhector

All the parts minus the drawbar.
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 The closer installed without the protector. It doesn't go flush to the face of the spindle. Normal? 




	

		
			
		

		
	
 All parts installed including the drawbar. Bit is just to keep from damaging the collet. The protector will not push the closer out. That's where an aluminum bar comes into play.


----------



## wa5cab

Yes, a slight gap is mandatory.  Else you wouldn't know whether the closer adapter was fully seated or had been stopped too soon b. 

I had concluded from reading the 6900 manual that the chuck retaining collar wouldn't do much pushing.


----------



## Silverbullet

I'm not sure but I think the collet nose adapter isn't the right one for that model lathe. Pretty sure they make a larger outside diameter collet nose. With the right one the protector will help knock it out in front. Just from what I remember.


----------



## Dhector

Good idea on borrowing collets. I did that and it is a 5c. I ordered a set last week and while I was getting rained on, snowed on, and sunburn on separate days in the mountains it showed up!!! Woohoo!!!! I checked the run out and its at .001.  Time to look for a new home for the 3950 and all the accessories I have for it. Can we advertise on here or is that a no-no? I have a lead on the lathe through my brother but haven't talked with him yet so I don't know what he is interested in, if at all any of it.

The aluminum bar works well so i'll stick with that method for now for removal of the collet closer. Now I just need a project for the lathe and mill and I'll be having some fun!!! 


Thanks again for all the help to everyone here.


----------



## wa5cab

Hector,

You are a H-M Supporter (or Premium Member) so you may list it for free in the BUYING & SELLING area at the bottom of the Home Page. Put it in Complete Machines.


----------



## Dhector

wa5cab said:


> Hector,
> 
> You are a H-M Supporter (or Premium Member) so you may list it for free in the BUYING & SELLING area at the bottom of the Home Page. Put it in Complete Machines.



Woohoo!!!! Sweet!!! Thank you. I will get in touch with the lead I have and see if he wants anything(hopefully everything but I'm not expecting that) If I have anything left I'll put it up for sale!!!


----------



## Dhector

This lathe came with a Jacobs "6A 33Taper cap0-1/2" chuck. It doesn't have a key for it. My 3950 has a key that fits but I want to purchase another one as the 3950 is possibly going down the road. Anyone know what thumb chuck key I need to order?

Got an oil leak on the carriage gearbox????(Where the feed screw and cross slides are engaged) I haven't torn it apart but I'm wondering if there are seals in it that need replaced? It looks almost like its leaking around the feed screw. Looked in the manual but didn't see any seals. I did change al the gearbox oils in this machine recently and SHOULD be close to the correct level(glass level indicators are hard to see through though)Any ideas or thoughts? Do these machines use bushings with tight tolerances that prevents oil leaking?


----------



## wa5cab

According to one of their catalogs, the Jacobs 6A chuck uses a Jacobs K3 key.

A bushing that is tight enough not to leak oil is at least a light press fit on the shaft running in it.  Which is to say 'way too tight.  If there is no seal present, then either the oil level is too high (which will eventually cure itself  or that shaft always leaks oil.


----------



## Dhector

I have another question. The 8 in(measures 8.25) diameter buck chuck on this lathe has what I believe to be called tongue and groove adapters for it. Correct if wrong please. What I would like to know if anyone makes them and where to maybe find a set but I'd like to get some different "Jaws" to bolt on the T&G that can go smaller than 3/4 in diameter(that's about the smallest shaft that can be installed in the chuck without removing it and using collets)

Something similar to these maybe but the stepped jaws would be better in my opinion? Pictures robbed from EBAY.








Or, not that I have the skill but would give it a try, maybe make a set myself? If so what kid on steel should be used. I've seen you guys talk about all kinds of numbers of different metals, which is foreign to me, and don't what would be best to use to do it with. I mainly use smaller shafts to fab stuff with around here but have done some 5 inch or so diameter transmission mods for a buddy once in a while. Anybody have a diagram with specs on such a thing? Feel free to tell me to not waste my time and order a set too. Probably over my head skill wise but it wouldn't be the first time I did something out of my league!!  Hope all this makes sense. Thanks!


----------



## machPete99

Those are called "American Standard" chuck jaws, and the are somewhat standardized, so you might find replacements out there.
I am not sure if you can get them to fit smaller diameters or not.


----------



## chips&more

The only jaws that work for sure are the ones that come with the chuck. If trying to replace just the jaws, it’s a crap shoot if they fit correctly and have decent concentricity. After the time, money and gamble of working? Just for replacing the jaws to hold smaller stuff. Maybe the cost of a smaller chuck is appropriate? If all you want are the T&G jaw top part. Then, I would make them to fit the jaws that you have. Steel is good. Maybe just try aluminum for now and see how it all works out. Aluminum will hold up for a hobbyist. Easy to machine. And you can get some fun out of it…Dave


----------



## wa5cab

CH's first sentence is correct for self-centering (almost all 3-jaw and a few 4-jaw) solid-jaw chucks.  But not for at least most 3-jaw with 2-piece jaws.  There are apparently two standards, American Standard Tongue & Groove Jaws and something roughly equivalent but made to metric dimensions.  The jaw dimensions vary according to the chuck diameter (and 8.25" actual diameter appears to be standard on 8" chucks).  So you only need to confirm that you chuck has American Standard Tongue & Groove Jaws and look for those to fit an 8" chuck.  For some strange reason, there is no mention of them in Machinery's Handbook.  But they appear to come in several nose shapes.  Prices are all over the map.  But I wouldn't buy the cheapest that I could find.

You never posted a photo of your chuck so I don't know why its minimum diameter for clamping is about 1".

EDIT:  If you do buy a set similar to those in your second photo, don't forget to re-center the chuck after you install them.


----------



## Dhector

chips&more said:


> The only jaws that work for sure are the ones that come with the chuck. If trying to replace just the jaws, it’s a crap shoot if they fit correctly and have decent concentricity. After the time, money and gamble of working? Just for replacing the jaws to hold smaller stuff. Maybe the cost of a smaller chuck is appropriate? If all you want are the T&G jaw top part. Then, I would make them to fit the jaws that you have. Steel is good. Maybe just try aluminum for now and see how it all works out. Aluminum will hold up for a hobbyist. Easy to machine. And you can get some fun out of it…Dave



Going to try aluminum. I like that idea. I just want the bolt on "jaws" Not wanting to replace the ones that actually engage the tightening mechanism(whatever its called) Price on a smaller chuck is an option but I thought for what little I do with this machine if the bolt on "Jaws" would grab smaller diameters it may save me a little hassle changing the chuck frequently is all. I also want the outer diameter of the jaws to be able to grab larger diameter objects possibly.


----------



## Dhector

wa5cab said:


> CH's first sentence is correct for self-centering (almost all 3-jaw and a few 4-jaw) solid-jaw chucks.  But not for at least most 3-jaw with 2-piece jaws.  There are apparently two standards, American Standard Tongue & Groove Jaws and something roughly equivalent but made to metric dimensions.  The jaw dimensions vary according to the chuck diameter (and 8.25" actual diameter appears to be standard on 8" chucks).  So you only need to confirm that you chuck has American Standard Tongue & Groove Jaws and look for those to fit an 8" chuck.  For some strange reason, there is no mention of them in Machinery's Handbook.  But they appear to come in several nose shapes.  Prices are all over the map.  But I wouldn't buy the cheapest that I could find.
> 
> You never posted a photo of your chuck so I don't know why its minimum diameter for clamping is about 1".
> 
> EDIT:  If you do buy a set similar to those in your second photo, don't forget to re-center the chuck after you install them.



I should have known that no one knows my setup since they are not here. I apologize for that. Here is a picture of it. I should have also mentioned its a 6 jaw chuck. I figured that a quantity of 3 purchased, or made myself, "jaws" would be sufficient for what I usually do with it. Thoughts on that? I can only imagine to get a point that extends to the center for smaller projects is going to be a little confusing for me and difficult(but i'm going to try) I know what I'd like it to look like, but to put that into really close tolerance will probably be hard for me to accomplish with my level of experience.
Its a buck chuck if that's help with determining whether it is "American Standard Tongue & Groove Jaws" I'm not sure how to verify that. Measurements maybe???


----------



## wa5cab

I wouldn't go with the aluminum ones.  They are fairly easy to damage and are intended for use where a steel jaw might  damage the work piece.  Kinda like why you might use a brass hammer or punch once in a while.  And there are no generic replacements for the master jaws for much the same reasons that Chips&More gave.


----------



## wa5cab

If it's a Buck, I'm relative sure that the master jaws are made for upper American Standard Tongue & Groove Jaws.  And I don't see any reason why you couldn't run it as a 3-jaw.

I didn't keep or record where I saw it but on one of the eBay Shars ads for the upper jaws, well down the screen there was a table of dimensions for American Standard followed by the same thing in metric.  The only thing that I didn't see was a chart or drawing showing what the different jaw letter styles were.


----------



## Dhector

wa5cab said:


> I wouldn't go with the aluminum ones.  They are fairly easy to damage and are intended for use where a steel jaw might  damage the work piece.  Kinda like why you might use a brass hammer or punch once in a while.  And there are no generic replacements for the master jaws for much the same reasons that Chips&More gave.



Damn. Already bought aluminum at lunch. Maybe I'll make one out of aluminum to see If can actually do it and then if it looks good, make some with steel. Maybe I should price them too. I'm sure if they cost 100.00(just guessing) a piece, I could easily make one in ten hours or so!!!  Maybe I should just go back to work make some money, and order some, hehe.


----------



## wa5cab

One other thing I should have thought of.  Jaws for a 6-jaw have sharper tips than required on a 3-jaw.  To run the chuck with only 3 jaws, you may have to do some whittling in the lower parts of the upper jaw sides to clear the corners of the three unused master jaws.


----------



## wa5cab

If they cost you $100 each to make (not including labor), it'll be cheaper to buy them!!


----------



## Dhector

wa5cab said:


> If they cost you $100 each to make (not including labor), it'll be cheaper to buy them!!



Sounds like they may not be too expensive then? Am I reading that right. I'll be honest, I don't even know where to start looking.

My 100.00 statement was more of a dig on myself. I fixed our lock on our sliding glass door with the lathe and mill(just to see if I could do it) and only took me several hours due to lack of some tooling , material, and had to get creative, and a lack of experience etc. I could have bought the whole lock assembly for 60.00 but why do that when I can waste a sunday afternoon and put a few beers away at the same time. Id be a pretty skinny guy if I had to rely on those machines to make a living!!!


----------



## wa5cab

On eBay, do a search on "American Standard Tongue & Groove Jaws" and variations of that.  Do not include the word "chuck" as all that will turn up will be complete chucks.  Ignore any ad that isn't for three jaws.


----------



## Dhector

wa5cab said:


> On eBay, do a search on "American Standard Tongue & Groove Jaws" and variations of that.  Do not include the word "chuck" as all that will turn up will be complete chucks.  Ignore any ad that isn't for three jaws.



I just looked briefly and I think I wasted money on aluminum!!! Oh well. Thanks for all the help, I appreciate it. If I do still make one and its worthy of letting other people see it, I'll post it.

I knew I should have waited for replies but like usual I get an idea and run with it. I think I need to order a set and also, waste and afternoon making some just to remind me of what wasting time really means!!! Even though currently its a lot of fun and I love it!! Thanks again all. Appreciate the help.


----------



## chips&more

wa5cab said:


> CH's first sentence is correct for self-centering (almost all 3-jaw and a few 4-jaw) solid-jaw chucks.  But not for at least most 3-jaw with 2-piece jaws.  There are apparently two standards, American Standard Tongue & Groove Jaws and something roughly equivalent but made to metric dimensions.  The jaw dimensions vary according to the chuck diameter (and 8.25" actual diameter appears to be standard on 8" chucks).  So you only need to confirm that you chuck has American Standard Tongue & Groove Jaws and look for those to fit an 8" chuck.  For some strange reason, there is no mention of them in Machinery's Handbook.  But they appear to come in several nose shapes.  Prices are all over the map.  But I wouldn't buy the cheapest that I could find.
> 
> You never posted a photo of your chuck so I don't know why its minimum diameter for clamping is about 1".
> 
> EDIT:  If you do buy a set similar to those in your second photo, don't forget to re-center the chuck after you install them.


Sorry, but you miss read my post. I did not say the T&G was a crap shoot.


----------



## chips&more

I would not worry about using aluminum. Many hobby chucks are sold with aluminum jaws. Make them out of aluminum and see how they hold up under your hobby environment. It will get you going and you never know, something else could turn up. Have some fun. If you said you wanted the chuck for production, then a completely different story, I would not have recommended aluminum. NICE 6 JAW!


----------



## Dhector

This is progress so far.
	

		
			
		

		
	



The center of the jaws I got with the machine are not round when tightened  up. My concern is what I'm trying to do may not work. I can't see it in my head so I'm confused on angles and the center hole. Hope that makes sense. I did make mine with a longer section from the inner bolt to the inner end so I can get a smaller diameter when done. I also know that I will have to shave the bottom side between the inner bolt hole and the actual center as if I don't, it will hit the other three jaws when tightened. Do you have any idea what I need to do to get the three jaws tight and hold smaller pieces? I thank you for any info at all.


----------



## wa5cab

The new nose angle needs to be  60 deg. from the jaw's longitudinal center line.  Or 30 deg. off of flat.  The included angle of the nose would be 120 deg.  Twice the 60 deg. included angle of the existing jaws.  The existing angle off of the longitudinal center line is 30 deg.  So the new noses are going to be much shorter or stubbier than the existing ones.


----------



## wa5cab

DH,

As I said in the other thread, I found the photos of the drive end of your machine back on page 2 on April 28th.  It looks like the mechanical variable speed is set to around the middle of its range.  When you get the tach, set your VFD to 60 CPS (Hz) and measure the spindle RPM.  That gives you the spindle RPM when the motor is turning at 1800 RPM.  From that, you can calculate the motor RPM necessary to get 300 and 1600 spindle RPM.  And all of the intermediate settings.


----------



## Dhector

Woo hoo!!!! Got them done. Only had one problem. Didn't take 10 hours either!!! I know this is probably rather easy for most of you but I'm kinda happy with myself right now and wanted to show it off a little! I figure it a thread I started and if I spam it too much some one will tell me to be quiet!

If you look in in the first pic on the very bottom right hand hole it looks bigger than the rest, because it is. It was the second 1/2 hole I drilled(with the mill and a cornwell drill bit) What happened is I ran the mill at slow speed and the bit caught(didn't think I was pushing it too hard either) Anyway all I can think is when I lifted up on the handle to remove it the bit became more extended than what I measured and I didn't catch it had moved. Not a huge problem but it was a mistake. The total final OD of the hole is larger than 1/2 inch so I will probably machine a washer to put inside the hole so it catches the face in the bottom better than the bolt head does. Got them installed and they are very snug in the jaws. I was happy with that. I put a piece of round stock in the lathe behind the jaws I made to hold them all tight and bored the centers till the faces were clean. I stuck a 7/16 end mill in it and checked for runout and it was less than .0005. All that coming from a dummy new guy!!!!!! Now I must say this. I did not remove them and reinstall them yet and check runout. It was right after I cut them. I will install them some other day and check again. If its way off I'm just going to lie about it and say its still good! JK. Not in my nature to lie. Anyway thanks for the help. Had a blast doing it.


----------



## wa5cab

DH,

Those look very good.  Considerably better than my first efforts 37 years ago!

But...I apologize for not mentioning this earlier when I saw that the jaws on your 6-jaw had had the tips bored to something around 1".  I guess that I just subconsciously assumed that you knew that that is very uncommon.  Normally, the jaw tips on chuck jaws are flat across the ends, so that they can grip any diameter down to some minimum.  Drill chuck jaws are the same way.  And generally, the larger the chuck, the larger the minimum.


----------



## Dhector

wa5cab said:


> DH,
> 
> Those look very good.  Considerably better than my first efforts 37 years ago!
> 
> But...I apologize for not mentioning this earlier when I saw that the jaws on your 6-jaw had had the tips bored to something around 1".  I guess that I just subconsciously assumed that you knew that that is very uncommon.  Normally, the jaw tips on chuck jaws are flat across the ends, so that they can grip any diameter down to some minimum.  Drill chuck jaws are the same way.  And generally, the larger the chuck, the larger the minimum.



Thank you. Don't assume any kind of intelligence with me and machining of any sort. I really am as new as one can get. Been it for all of 8 months now. And as a hobby this 8 months turn out very little "playing around time" I like reading this forum but some of the specs and lingo I'm reading are confusing. I read the other day swarf is basically the shavings from machines. Who's a thought that? Not me. I do appreciate everything from everyone and will keep playing and reading when I can. I don't have any books on this stuff, it's all just what I see in my head and trying to apply it. Thanks again.


----------



## wa5cab

I would suggest that you acquire a copy of say a 1960 or later edition of either "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend or "Manual Of Lathe Operation" by Atlas.


----------



## Dhector

Im looking for a parting tool to fit this qctp. Could someone point me in the right direction as to what this post is. Ive seen people talk about axa and cxa but I dont understand it. How do you determine what it is? Measurements?


----------



## Dhector

I finally got to go to the guys house that got the mill and the tool box from the previous owner of this lathe. i got a whole box of stuff, boring bars, cutting tools, etc. There wasnt a 3 jaw chuck like he thought but oh well. There is no tool post for these but I did get them too. My hope is if I can go out to the house and look around a little maybe the post is there somewhere. Crossing fingers on that! These are way bigger than the tool post that is currently on the machine so evidently its not a cxa tool post that is installed at the moment.
If i went to look for an aloris cxa tool post, where is the best place to go for that sort of thing?


----------



## chips&more

IMHO The “C” series is too big for the lathe you have. I would get the BXA size. Just my three cents. That holder you have in post #128 looks kinda familiar.  I think I have some of the holders for it??? No promises, but let me dig in my piles of stuff and see if I can find them. Or if you find a B series, then that would be your best all around…Dave.


----------



## Silverbullet

I think the tool post you have is a kdk . Or something like that . Ill Ck eBay and get back in a bit. If you have a mill I'm sure you could make one that type only needs the vee cuts . On the side it should have a number for size , model 100 ,150 ,I guess on up. That decides the size of your holders.


----------



## chips&more

No, sorry, not the same.


----------



## Silverbullet

Dhector said:


> View attachment 241144
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im looking for a parting tool to fit this qctp. Could someone point me in the right direction as to what this post is. Ive seen people talk about axa and cxa but I dont understand it. How do you determine what it is? Measurements?


Kdk series 100 eBay has a parting blade tool holder starting at $70. About it has a long side for regular, tool bits and the short ends made for cutoff tools.


----------



## Dhector

chips&more said:


> IMHO The “C” series is too big for the lathe you have. I would get the BXA size. Just my three cents. That holder you have in post #128 looks kinda familiar.  I think I have some of the holders for it??? No promises, but let me dig in my piles of stuff and see if I can find them. Or if you find a B series, then that would be your best all around…Dave.



I may go ahead and use it if i find the tool post at his place and just be wary that its too large for the machine. I certainly wont buy one(they are a little pricey) I dont do much heavy cutting so if i went easy they should work ok right?     That being said, these are my machines to play with and I DONT allow buddies to mess with them. Nothing against them, I just dont so someone else cutting too much with them isnt going to happen.



Silverbullet said:


> I think the tool post you have is a kdk . Or something like that . Ill Ck eBay and get back in a bit. If you have a mill I'm sure you could make one that type only needs the vee cuts . On the side it should have a number for size , model 100 ,150 ,I guess on up. That decides the size of your holders.



I do have a mill and some tooling but its lacking a skilled operator!!!!!!!!   I made 2 sets of dice with it and some tongue and groove lathe jaws.  Actually kind of cool but not really confident on making a tool. Not saying I wont try, I just dont have experience on the mill.  



Silverbullet said:


> Kdk series 100 eBay has a parting blade tool holder starting at $70. About it has a long side for regular, tool bits and the short ends made for cutoff tools.



I searched for "KDK series 100" and the results I found look different. The wedge on the ones I saw on ebay on the tool post holder are what I would call male and the tool holder itself is the female. Mine are the opposite. I did see on my tool holders they say kirkelie and one of the holders has a number of 102 on it. I really appreciate all the help. Sorry I know so little about this stuff.


----------



## brino

Dhector said:


> I may go ahead and use it if i find the tool post at his place and just be wary that its too large for the machine.



As long as you can bolt it down safely, go for it.
However, you may find that for certain tools (bigger lathe bits, cut-off tools, or boring bars) that you do not have the range of adjustment required to get the cutting edge at centre height. That's the usual consequence of a mismatched QCTP size.



Dhector said:


> I do have a mill and some tooling but its lacking a skilled operator!!!!!!!! I made 2 sets of dice with it and some tongue and groove lathe jaws. Actually kind of cool but not really confident on making a tool. Not saying I wont try, I just dont have experience on the mill.



....and that's the best way to get experience. Good for you, keep going!



Dhector said:


> I really appreciate all the help. Sorry I know so little about this stuff.


Learning is what this site is about.

-brino


----------



## Dhector

brino said:


> As long as you can bolt it down safely, go for it.
> However, you may find that for certain tools (bigger lathe bits, cut-off tools, or boring bars) that you do not have the range of adjustment required to get the cutting edge at centre height. That's the usual consequence of a mismatched QCTP size.
> 
> 
> 
> ....and that's the best way to get experience. Good for you, keep going!
> 
> 
> Learning is what this site is about.
> 
> -brino



Thank you. This site is awesome!!!!!!!


----------



## Dhector

Pardon the filthy bench! More questions. I had a customer give me this tool. Looks like a mill turntable or probably that has a specific name. No name on it. Just wondering if anyone has a clue what this is please. the number on the round table is s-6285 and underneath the number is 6285-1. Any ideas who makes it, what its exactly for, etc. And once again thank you all for all the help.


----------



## brino

Dhector said:


> Pardon the filthy bench!



I'd say "busy" not "filthy". 

It looks like you got a combination X-Y table and rotary table built into one.....or one stacked onto the other....can they be separated or is it built as one unit?

I'll see if I can find any references.

-brino


----------



## brino

Here's a rusty one on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Palmgren-8-...611554&hash=item33d4ccd94a:g:HEMAAOSw74NZkf75
(but a good name and large!)


----------



## chips&more

Yes brino got it. It’s a Palmgren X-Y rotary table. Also sold under other names but basically the same thing, handles could be different. Yours has the bigger rotary dial, my memory says that’s the better one with more resolution?


----------



## Dhector

brino said:


> I'd say "busy" not "filthy".
> 
> It looks like you got a combination X-Y table and rotary table built into one.....or one stacked onto the other....can they be separated or is it built as one unit?
> 
> I'll see if I can find any references.
> 
> -brino



Not sure if it can be separated or not. The guy that gave it to me cleaned it up at my shop so I didnt get to tear it apart. Thank you for looking. Im doing some machining for him that is really over my head but I'm a stubborn bastard and want to see if I can do it for his motorcycle. We'll see what happens. 



brino said:


> I'd say "busy" not "filthy".
> 
> It looks like you got a combination X-Y table and rotary table built into one.....or one stacked onto the other....can they be separated or is it built as one unit?
> 
> I'll see if I can find any references.
> 
> -brino


 We are busy but I do lack a table to put all the machining stuff I acquired and thats part of it. I feel bad cause the phone seems to keep me occupied all day anymore. Its good, but bad at the same time. Thank you for looking at it and the link. I appreciate it.



chips&more said:


> Yes brino got it. It’s a Palmgren X-Y rotary table. Also sold under other names but basically the same thing, handles could be different. Yours has the bigger rotary dial, my memory says that’s the better one with more resolution?



Sweet! Thanks for the reply. It looks cool and want to figure it out but real life is getting in the way!!!!! NO TIME!!!!


----------



## wa5cab

The combo of rotary table on top of X-Y table is primarily made for use on drill presses.  You wouldn't normally use it on either a vertical or horizontal mill because they already have the X-Y capability.


----------



## Dhector

Back to the feed screw repair. 

The overriding clutch embarrassingly works correctly(i always wondered if it was correct, but didnt want to jam it up in case it wasnt) This should be in the "goofs and blunders thread" but I thought if this write up ever helped anyone fix a similar problem at least here its in the same thread. I was facing a large piece of aluminum and reached down to grab the vacuum hose next to my foot and hit the end of its travel. The feed screw stopped and I got worried quick!!!!! it jammed the cross slide screw assembly to where I couldnt move it. I had to remove the 2 allen head screws from the base of it and lightly tap it out(thank the lord it has a taper attachment and the handle shaft is splined and not a single piece. Maybe they all are that way, I dont know, but if it was one piece it would have been harder to repair my mess up) Put it all back together and everything functioned as it did before my mistake took place. Whew!!!!!!


----------



## fast freddie

It is against the law to steal


----------



## Dhector

Can someone direct me to some info on a steady rest for this machine? The 7212 is not available anymore. Are they all the same for a 14 in swing lathes? Any ideas where to find a used one? Can a different style be modified relatively easy? Any thoughts on what to do here? Thank you.


----------



## wa5cab

Well, if you know that they are no longer available, I assume that you have already called Clausing.  But they are not all the same for any brand of lathe that happens to have a 14" swing.  Because of at least 2 reasons.  First, although several vendors may say that they make a 14" lathe, the actual swing over the ways, meaning the diameter at which the work piece would start hitting somewhere on the ways is never that I know of exactly 14".  It may vary from say 14.125" to maybe 14.375".   So the spindle center-line height won't be quite the same from one brand to the next.  And the steady rest center height will vary.

Second, although most lathes except for the Atlas will have Inverted-V ways (beds), no two brands that I know of are going to be exactly the same, either the exact size of the V will vary or its location relative to the spindle, or both.  And some will have one V at the front, one flat at the front, and one flat at the rear while others may also have a V at the rear.  The thickness of the bed at the front and rear may vary.  Etc.  So as a general rule it's safer to assume that follow rests are not interchangeable between brands than to assume that they are.

I would start by asking Clausing for the main drawing on the bottom part of the rest.


----------



## chips&more

I would keep a saved search on eBay for a steady rest and just patiently wait. Be sitting down when you look at prices. Sorry, I have no knowledge of a cheap and or easy work around…Dave


----------



## Dhector

wa5cab said:


> Well, if you know that they are no longer available, I assume that you have already called Clausing.  But they are not all the same for any brand of lathe that happens to have a 14" swing.  Because of at least 2 reasons.  First, although several vendors may say that they make a 14" lathe, the actual swing over the ways, meaning the diameter at which the work piece would start hitting somewhere on the ways is never that I know of exactly 14".  It may vary from say 14.125" to maybe 14.375".   So the spindle center-line height won't be quite the same from one brand to the next.  And the steady rest center height will vary.
> 
> Second, although most lathes except for the Atlas will have Inverted-V ways (beds), no two brands that I know of are going to be exactly the same, either the exact size of the V will vary or its location relative to the spindle, or both.  And some will have one V at the front, one flat at the front, and one flat at the rear while others may also have a V at the rear.  The thickness of the bed at the front and rear may vary.  Etc.  So as a general rule it's safer to assume that follow rests are not interchangeable between brands than to assume that they are.
> 
> I would start by asking Clausing for the main drawing on the bottom part of the rest.



It's been a while since I talked to clausing but my terrible memory says NLA. I will call them because I think they will give you blueprints if parts are not available from what I recall. Will see what they say. Thank you.



chips&more said:


> I would keep a saved search on ebay for a steady rest and just patiently wait. Be sitting down when you look at prices. Sorry, I have no knowledge of a cheap and or easy work around…Dave



I had a feeling that they would be somewhat or extremely pricey, but can't decide if I don't have a clue of what it may actually cost, which of course is up to the seller. How do you do a search that is saved? I guess I never saw that option. Thank you.


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## wa5cab

Clausing is one of the few US companies that has a policy of trying to help owners of their older machines.  They do the same for the Atlas machines, although the farther away you get from lathes, the fewer drawings they seem to have.  On their pricing policy, they may still have old stock on a few parts but for the most part, their inventory is relatively new.  I don't know what their markup over cost policy is but their prices are no worse on parts for the old stuff than their or anyone else's prices on roughly similar parts for current machines.  The day of the nickle Coke is long gone..


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## chips&more

Dhector said:


> I had a feeling that they would be somewhat or extremely pricy, but can't decide if I don't have a clue of what it may actually cost, which of course is up to the seller. How do you do a search that is saved? I guess I never saw that option. Thank you.



On my computer, when I search, there is a little heart shaped symbol followed by the words “save this search”. Just click on it. ebay will then e-mail you when your search parameter has a hit. You can fine tune your search parameter by clicking on “advanced”. Also, I believe you can set-up your smart phone to beep you when a search has come up on ebay. This given info is sourced from my computer with my OS, settings and ebay account. Sorry, if it is not applicable to you. Good Luck!

Also try Craigslist!


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## Dhector

Well darn. No blueprint on the steady rest. They sent me a parts breakdown thats a little different than the one in the owners manual but it has no dimesions. Where would I post about seeing if a member here has one that I could chat with on? Maybe get some detailed measurements from??? Any other ideas????


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## Dhector

Well a steady rest just popped up on ebay!!!! So i bought it. I swear I saw the listing before, but had a different listing header. If someone on here saw this post and amended their auction, thank you.


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## Dhector

I got my steady rest in and it was damaged in shipping:-( He is willing to refund my money if I send it back to him but I kind of want to keep it since they seem to be hard to find. Anybody have an idea of a good way for a dummy(myself) to repair this if I do end up keeping it???


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## markba633csi

I've had a lot of broken items bought thru Ebay.  People generally don't use enough packing. 
Looks like brazing would be your best bet to repair it. 
Mark


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## brino

Dhector said:


> Anybody have an idea of a good way for a dummy(myself) to repair this if I do end up keeping it???



It looks to have a rust line half-way thru the break, suggesting it may have been cracked earlier and just "finished off" in shipping.

Other than that it looks like a nice clean break, I would braze it.
Oxy-acetylene torch and flux-coated bronze rods.

basically:
grind a v-groove from one side (leave enough of the original edges to line it up well)
find a way to hold it flat,
heat both parts evenly (the big part will suck more heat away)
apply filler rod until it's slightly proud of the surface
grind or mill away excess filler

I usually find that the bronze also flow wells to the "down" side to fill the little crack there.

If you want to go all out, figure out a way to pre-heat and slow, post cooling.....but I bet it's not required.
(I have used a charcoal barbeque grill for both, just let it burn out overnight for slow cool)

There are a couple great threads here on brazing.
PM me if you cannot find them.

-brino


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## Dhector

brino said:


> It looks to have a rust line half-way thru the break, suggesting it may have been cracked earlier and just "finsihed off" in shipping.
> 
> Other than that it looks like a nice clean break, I would braze it.
> Oxy-acetylene torch and flux-coated bronze rods.
> 
> basically:
> grind a v-groove from one side (leave enough of the original edges to line it up well)
> find a way to hold it flat,
> heat both parts evenly (the big part will suck more heat away)
> apply filler rod until it's slightly proud of the surface
> grind or mill away excess filler
> 
> I usually find that the bronze also flow wells to the "down" side to fill the little crack there.
> 
> If you want to go all out, figure out a way to pre-heat and slow, post cooling.....but I bet it's not required.
> (I have used a charcoal barbeque grill for both, just let it burn out overnight for slow cool)
> 
> There are a couple great threads here on brazing.
> PM me if you cannot find them.
> 
> -brino


 I saw the rust and thought the same thing. This sucks(for both involved) Im not sure what to do. Will look into brazing it and milling it down if i keep it. Thank you.


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## chips&more

I totally agree with brino. I also think it was already cracked and shipping broke the rest of it. Same thing happened to me. Bought a Levin lathe on auction. When I got it, the cast head stock cover was busted up. Then I closely looked at the sellers pics and noticed it was already cracked. The seller lied and his pics proved it! I kept the lathe and the Insurance money was helpful. Made a new cover. All is well now.
Your seller should be obliging. Point it out to the seller/person that it was already cracked. And what about insurance money.
I would mill a slot into the good part and make a new ear to fit the slot and look like the original ear. Then use flat head allen screws to hold the new ear to the slot in the good part. A little bondo and paint...good as new. This way, no heat! Maybe stronger! Good Luck…Dave


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## wa5cab

The part that broke is cast iron.  It may well have been cracked at the time of shipping.  Because of the hole drilled in it for the pivot screw or pin, it is the weakest part of the joint.  What I would do is to mill a slot in the damaged end of the upper piece with width the same as the thickness of the part that broke off.  And about 1/2" deep.  Then make a replacement for the broken off part out of steel bar.  Mill 1/8" x 45 deg. bevels all around the slot.  And silver solder the replacement into the slot.  Should then be stronger than the original.


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## Dhector

Decided to tear the apron apart to try and fix an oil leak from the lead screw which was bothering me so i thought I'd throw it out here.




Here is where the leak was coming from(not the open cover, rather where the lead screw goes through the worm gear(worm gear is not in this pic)





The passage in the bottom of the hole in this pic was full of debris, sludge, tiny metal filings etc. From what it appeared to me its the oil return possible to return the main cavity in the apron.



The opposite side has a similar passage.




The worm gear and bushing.




The bushing has a hole in the bottom for oil to drain into the passage. It was plugged also(yes there is wear on the items in the picture)



This was the close to the amount of gap between the worm gear and bushing when it was installed. Approximately .075 give or take. 







The worm gear, bushing, and the apron itself all have wear in them. New parts would just sit against worn edges and wear quicker. My plan it to make a new longer bushing and cut a close taper to match the end of the worm gear, and then cut a tapered shim for the other end and let the worm gear ride on a bushing rather than the apron itself. The bushing I plan to make will be longer so I have some room for adjustment as it wears down the road.

I have a small Sears and roebuck lathe(12x36 never played with it, or cleaned it up yet) Tried to make a bushing when the clausing was torn apart but it needs to be worked over a little and tighten it up(metal gibs, not the plastic ones,mainly) but it just wasnt working very well(and very slow) so I put the clausing back together and I am making the bushing on the clausing, for the clausing. Its going to work(in my head anyway) but I'm going off drawings now rather than have the part in my hand.

I didnt take all the gears and parts out of the apron as they all looked good. They spun well, didnt see any issues other than it needed washed out pretty bad. It hasnt been cleaned in a LOT of years I suspect.

Dont ask why the attachments below this are there. Im not sure what I did to make that happen!!!


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## Dhector

After all that cleaning, I wanted to run through the controls and when the cross slide or threading were engaged, the lead screw would stop turning. I was confused since I didnt tear it down far enough to put it back together wrong really. Everything spun freely, and everything was clean now. Really confused me. Took the QCGB cover off and ran the machine. The shaft kept spinning inside the box, but the lead screw quit turning. Then I noticed a tiny round object on the lead screw. Turned out to be a shear pin, and whoever put it in really made it fit well. It was very hard to see. The book shows a shear pin with a nut but this was different. Turned out to be a piece of bronze that fit very well had sheared. It now has a piece of brazing rod in it and works well. I didnt make it fit like the last guy did. I just mushroomed the ends a little so it is visible. Its nice to know if something gets jammed up it has that shear pin. I thought that the overiding clutch inside the gear engagement lever assembly was for that, but it isnt.


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## brino

Great progress.
Thanks for sharing it!
-brino


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## papa-roe

Dhector said:


> Decided to tear the apron apart to try and fix an oil leak from the lead screw which was bothering me so i thought I'd throw it out here.
> View attachment 245256
> 
> 
> 
> Here is where the leak was coming from(not the open cover, rather where the lead screw goes through the worm gear(worm gear is not in this pic)
> 
> View attachment 245247
> 
> 
> 
> The passage in the bottom of the hole in this pic was full of debris, sludge, tiny metal filings etc. From what it appeared to me its the oil return possible to return the main cavity in the apron.
> 
> View attachment 245248
> 
> The opposite side has a similar passage.
> 
> View attachment 245259
> 
> 
> The worm gear and bushing.
> View attachment 245252
> 
> 
> 
> The bushing has a hole in the bottom for oil to drain into the passage. It was plugged also(yes there is wear on the items in the picture)
> View attachment 245253
> 
> 
> This was the close to the amount of gap between the worm gear and bushing when it was installed. Approximately .075 give or take.
> View attachment 245254
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 245266
> 
> 
> The worm gear, bushing, and the apron itself all have wear in them. New parts would just sit against worn edges and wear quicker. My plan it to make a new longer bushing and cut a close taper to match the end of the worm gear, and then cut a tapered shim for the other end and let the worm gear ride on a bushing rather than the apron itself. The bushing I plan to make will be longer so I have some room for adjustment as it wears down the road.
> 
> I have a small Sears and roebuck lathe(12x36 never played with it, or cleaned it up yet) Tried to make a bushing when the clausing was torn apart but it needs to be worked over a little and tighten it up(metal gibs, not the plastic ones,mainly) but it just wasnt working very well(and very slow) so I put the clausing back together and I am making the bushing on the clausing, for the clausing. Its going to work(in my head anyway) but I'm going off drawings now rather than have the part in my hand.
> 
> I didnt take all the gears and parts out of the apron as they all looked good. They spun well, didnt see any issues other than it needed washed out pretty bad. It hasnt been cleaned in a LOT of years I suspect.
> 
> Dont ask why the attachments below this are there. Im not sure what I did to make that happen!!!


On my passage, there is a lip in the casting that one bushing butts up against. On the other end the bushing is held in place with two set screws as shown in the manual.


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## Dhector

papa-roe said:


> On my passage, there is a lip in the casting that one bushing butts up against. On the other end the bushing is held in place with two set screws as shown in the manual.



Well mine is different than that. I only have the one bushing and the worm gear rides against the cast iron apron. I like the two bushing idea better. I'm wondering if yours has been bored out since memory makes me think my worm gear was close to the same diameter in the the apron on the tailstock end. Meaning a bushing would not fit in mine on that end due to not enough clearance, hence the reason I went the way I did with the tapered shim, rather than 2 bushings. This is getting fun!!!


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## Dhector

Thinking about putting a DRO on this lathe. I have a DRO on my mill and do use it(maybe not to its fullest extent but I do use it) I've never used one on a lathe before. Good idea? Bad idea?

Recommendations on a decent, but not break the bank model? Lathe is a 14 x 48. What length would a guy want to get?
How hard are they to install?
Thank you


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## papa-roe

You will need to find how far your cross slide and carriage move. I believe you have a 6 inch travel on the cross slide and I believe a 28 to 32 inch travel on the carriage. I have slept since I measured. I think that no matter where you go you will have to buy the next size larger and cut it down. A magnetic like DRO PRO sells can be cut to length.


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## chips&more

I have a Trav-A-Dial mounted on the side of the carriage for (X) longitudinal travel. It works great, don’t know how life would be without it! And for (Y) cross I just use the dial, again works for me...Dave.


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## Dhector

I really like that idea. I have figured out the cross slide dial so that's not an issue. The carriage in the other hand is what I would like to monitor instead of guess!!! Thank you!!!


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## chips&more

Sometimes a pic can say it all. The cross dial reads one to one.


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## Dhector

That looks perfect for what I would like. I went and priced those. A little more than I want to spend. Not sure what to do now. There have been several time(even as its a hobby) that I would have like that feature. I guess I'll just save up and decide what to do. Thank you.


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## chips&more

You can easily invest/spend more money on tooling and such than the basic machine is worth…EASILY!


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## Dhector

chips&more said:


> You can easily invest/spend more money on tooling and such than the basic machine is worth…EASILY!


You are very correct on that. I don't even know what I'm doing and have spent more money than maybe I should have. It's all worth it though. We don't live forever!!!! This is so addictive it should be illegal!!!! Well worth it though!!!!


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## wa5cab

It doesn't much matter what size or price class your machine is in, a decent suite of tooling (cutters and accessories) will usually cost more than the basic machine.


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## Dhector

Interesting this came up as per the price of this stuff. I just picked this item up today from my brother(he went and picked it up for me and payed for it on Monday) 325.00 which I didn't think was bad but that is 75.00 less than I gave for the lathe in the first place. Before turkey I payed him back and checked it out and couldn't wait to get back to the shop and try it out. That will happen shortly!!!!!  







And on another note paparoe sent me his clutch kickout since we have the same lathe and I measured it extensively and drew it up. Then I built me one and never used the paper I drew up, just used his kickout and copied it. I did mess up one of the angles that clamp on the square shaft, but since I made my "Ramp" longer, It's not as issue at all. 


Want to give a very big THANK YOU to him!!!!!!!!!


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## Dhector

Well darn, the "tie down plate" doesn't fit. I guess I'll have to make one. The suspense is killing me!!! I can't wait to try it out and see how it works. This stuff is so exciting and addicting!!!! Wish I would have got into to it a LONG time ago!!!!!!!!
Glad all of you are here helping out to. I would not know ANYTHING if it wasn't for this site!!!!!!


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## chips&more

Great Find! The “T” nut is easily made. And I would be surprised if it fit the way it was. You always need to tweak those things. Be aware that the tool SHOULD be on center. I see a shim on it from the last lathe…Dave.


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## Dhector

chips&more said:


> Great Find! The “T” nut is easily made. And I would be surprised if it fit the way it was. You always need to tweak those things. Be aware that the tool SHOULD be on center. I see a shim on it from the last lathe…Dave.



 I made the T-nut last night and installed it quickly and cut some brass. The shim looks to be almost exact to get it on center I just didn't install it last night. I just wanted to try it out and it seems to work well. This morning i'm going to install the shim(after I look at dros, it is black Friday you know  and since i don't have to get in a brawl at Wal mart to get one, i thought i'd actually maybe be involved in black Friday for once in my life!!! ) A couple of the tools are too high when installed, but I'll play with it more and make sure they don't go with some of the other attachments in the box first before I start asking what to do about it.


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## Dhector

The guys dealing the estate of the man that use to own the lathe I bought, found this while they were cleaning things out. I thought it was pretty cool to get the manual, an old price list, and an old bulletin and what appears to be a fax to help with the very problem I had with the gearbox engagement lever when I bought the machine. I compared it to the manual in the "downloads" section and they are identical, except for the one in "downloads" shows accessories too. The steady rest, follower est, taper attachment, carriage stop, etc. Thought I'd throw it out here. Maybe it will help someone someday.


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## Dhector

Did a little more work on the lathe to try and tighten up some wobble on the sheave on the drive motor. Sometimes when I am turning a part it seems like the cut gets a visible line in the work. I'm not sure if it's another issue but wondered if the wobble from the lower sheave assembly may have caused a minor brief difference in speed and caused the line to show up(also, it makes a little noise and I wanted to try and cure that too) This machine came out with a hydraulic variable speed adjustment which had been removed before I got it, now it uses a VFD. I also plan on removing the bolt nut and spacer in the first pic, bottom sheave, and make a larger shaft to use for the sheave width adjustment. I am also going to try to put a bearing on on that same shaft and build a support arm that goes up to just below the bearing in the upper sheave and hold the outside of the shaft on the bottom sheave so it cant move up and down. That is verified one place I am getting noise from. 


Old pic, but its the only one I have assembled.



The support arm I want to do will be notched to fit in the tab right below the bearing, and then go down the hold the outer end of the shaft on the bottom sheaves to keep it from "Flexing upward" during use. Not the motor shaft, but the shaft you see in the first pic(homeade) I need to beef it up anyway as it has broke a roll pin on it twice since I got the machine.




This key is in between the two sheaves(no pic) It does not go on the motor shaft(its a straight regular key) Its torn up pretty bad obviously.






Here is my idea of a new key. Made it wider so when I screw the first 2 up I still have more to work with!!!! I just roughed it close and will cut and file to fit later. They are still available for about 880.00 bucks. Nice thing about that price is it comes with 2 new sheaves too!!!! The key I want to make will be wider than what came out of it. The key way in the other sheave is wider than the key that came out of it anyway, so I think it was homeade as well which allowed it to rock back and forth during operation. 






From the tooling that came with the mill I bought I used this "woodruff key cutter??" since the diameter was the same size as the rounded part of the key. The cutter is wider though, but since my sheaves don't move in and out to regulate the RPM anymore and they are basically stationary now, I didnt think it would hurt.





And the fun part. When I got it mostly cut I found a nice long crack in the sheave. It has been there a while I can tell, just didn't know about it. So now what to do??? My thoughts are to weld it, turn it down and re-cut the key way. Problem I see with that, there is a black plastic like coating on the sheave shaft. Assuming its for easy movement for the variable speed(which I don't need since it was converted to the VFD) but if it all burns off during welding, now my clearances and sheaves are going to be loose. Any other ideas rather than buying an 800.00 sheave and key set? It does have some plastic style 1/2 bushings in between the 2 sheaves. Since the sheaves don't move in and out anymore, I could probably measure and make a bushing(spacer more like since it doesn't move) to take up the slack. Any advise or ideas is welcome. I'll buy the sheaves and key if I have to, but really don't want to if I can help it. Thank you.


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## brino

Dhector said:


> When I got it mostly cut I found a nice long crack in the sheave. It has been there a while I can tell, just didn't know about it.



Well that explains the sloppy key!

I'd consider brazing that old key way full, then turning it down flush. You can braze at lower temperatures than welding and should therefore have less distortion (and out of round due to contraction of the weld metal). Then cut a new key way say 120 degrees away from this one.

But, I can't say what this would do for that coating on the shaft......
Is there a bare place on the shaft that you can measure the difference coating vs. no coating?

-brino


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## Dhector

brino said:


> Well that explains the sloppy key!
> 
> I'd consider brazing that old key way full, then turning it down flush. You can braze at lower temperatures than welding and should therefore have less distortion (and out of round due to contraction of the weld metal). Then cut a new key way say 120 degrees away from this one.
> 
> But, I can't say what this would do for that coating on the shaft......
> Is there a bare place on the shaft that you can measure the difference coating vs. no coating?
> 
> -brino



Brazing sounds like a good alternative actually. Thanks. I did get it measured so I'm not too worried about the OD right now and the set up I have doesn't need to move in and out since the variable was disabled and the VFD was installed(before I got the machine). I'm not concern with the coating anymore because of that. I decided to make a brass bushing to keep it all tight and will cut the key way in a different location. The key way I "ASSUMED" was the original and when I copied and made the new one, it is too short. The original key is also about .100 too narrow. I'll have to re-do all of that but no big deal. I went ahead and put the machine back together to cut the bushing(new key installed) and it quieted down already so I'm excited to get the whole thing finished and reassembled and tested out.


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## Dhector

Not trying to resurrect and old topic but I thought this would be better here than in the "What did you make today" since I made it 10 months ago or so.

Anyway my machine had a VFD on it when i got and the original owner had made the lower reeves drive sheave stationary(which I would find out later was because it was worn out) about mid range in the sheave. This is what I started with. Worked for a while, then kept breaking. See post 178.




1st attempt to make it work.




Made this brass sleeve to tighten the slop in the heavily worn sheaves. Made the wider key too.




Built a bracket to limit(not downward pressure, just wouldnt allow it to raise) to try and take some of the vibration out I was getting. There is a bearing on the shaft that the bracket rode on. 




Needless to say, It didnt fix it. It was a LOT better but it still kept breaking the clutch where I installed that shaft.

Finally got fed up with all the issues with the clutch breaking, wobbling etc and started this project. At least the fix got me through making a new pulley.
If anybody sees anything that looks like its incorrect please let me know. Im self taught so if the tool angle is wrong or the floor is painted the wrong color let me know so I can remedy it.
Im pretty sure it was 4140(which doesnt mean a whole lot to me but thats what they said it was when I bought it) All I know is I couldnt take very heavy cuts on it. It was pretty hard is all I know. Took me a long time to do it. 










I tapped the end of the motor shaft for a bolt to hold it all together. I made a "cap" to cover the end of the shaft and allow the bolt to tighten correctly. I had a machine shop cut the key way(lets be honest here, I didnt even know what broaching was until I read on this forum!!) I drilled three holes in the bottom of the "V" groove and tapped for set screws and jam screws. I installed everything and have been using it for approx 10 months or so. Works great. Eliminated all vibration from the bottom. Made the machine super quiet too. Clutch/brake functions as it is suppose to. And the best thing, I had fun, and saved 880 bucks!!!!


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## rwm

Nice work.
Also, I like floors that don't show blood stains.
Robert


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## jdedmon91

Dhector said:


> Not trying to resurrect and old topic but I thought this would be better here than in the "What did you make today" since I made it 10 months ago or so.
> 
> Anyway my machine had a VFD on it when i got and the original owner had made the lower reeves drive sheave stationary(which I would find out later was because it was worn out) about mid range in the sheave. This is what I started with. Worked for a while, then kept breaking. See post 178.
> View attachment 281622
> 
> 
> 
> 1st attempt to make it work.
> 
> View attachment 281623
> 
> 
> Made this brass sleeve to tighten the slop in the heavily worn sheaves. Made the wider key too.
> 
> View attachment 281625
> 
> 
> Built a bracket to limit(not downward pressure, just wouldnt allow it to raise) to try and take some of the vibration out I was getting. There is a bearing on the shaft that the bracket rode on.
> 
> View attachment 281624
> 
> 
> Needless to say, It didnt fix it. It was a LOT better but it still kept breaking the clutch where I installed that shaft.
> 
> Finally got fed up with all the issues with the clutch breaking, wobbling etc and started this project. At least the fix got me through making a new pulley.
> If anybody sees anything that looks like its incorrect please let me know. Im self taught so if the tool angle is wrong or the floor is painted the wrong color let me know so I can remedy it.
> Im pretty sure it was 4140(which doesnt mean a whole lot to me but thats what they said it was when I bought it) All I know is I couldnt take very heavy cuts on it. It was pretty hard is all I know. Took me a long time to do it.
> 
> View attachment 281629
> 
> 
> View attachment 281643
> 
> 
> View attachment 281644
> 
> 
> I tapped the end of the motor shaft for a bolt to hold it all together. I made a "cap" to cover the end of the shaft and allow the bolt to tighten correctly. I had a machine shop cut the key way(lets be honest here, I didnt even know what broaching was until I read on this forum!!) I drilled three holes in the bottom of the "V" groove and tapped for set screws and jam screws. I installed everything and have been using it for approx 10 months or so. Works great. Eliminated all vibration from the bottom. Made the machine super quiet too. Clutch/brake functions as it is suppose to. And the best thing, I had fun, and saved 880 bucks!!!!



It’s special when you make your own parts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dhector

rwm said:


> Nice work.
> Also, I like floors that don't show blood stains.
> Robert



Ive had a little blood from doing but so far nothing serious! Im pretty carefull. I kind of appreciate my arms and fingers!



jdedmon91 said:


> It’s special when you make your own parts
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I have fun doing it but you are right, the pure satifaction of making your own parts is amazing!!!


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## markba633csi

Why is it that people who know little about lathes always get the great deals? LOL
Never happens to me and I know only a little more than little
Mark


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## machPete99

Text deleted, looks like your questions were answered earlier...


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## Dhector

markba633csi said:


> Why is it that people who know little about lathes always get the great deals? LOL
> Never happens to me
> Mark



I dont know but I'm glad I was the lucky one here. I don't know for sure, but if I hadnt had a shot at it to purchase, my gut feeling is this thing would have probably ended up in the iron pile. Since it was an estate(not an estate sale though) I think the guy in charge just wanted it gone and I happened to be the lucky one.


----------

