# Some Useful Lathe Tools



## HMF

?	quick change tool post and holders
?	cutoff tool and holder
?	 knurling tool
?	lathe cutting tools, including inside and outside threading. HSS and maybe indexable carbide 
?	follower rest
?	steady rest 
?	live center
?	lathe faceplate
?	collets
?	4-jaw independent chuck
?	boring bar for lathe
?	carriage stops and carriage dial indicator holder for lathe
?	tailstock drill chuck with taper adapter
?	lathe dog, dead center for lathe spindle and faceplate or driving plate
?	milling attachment for lathe
?	center drills
?	assorted files and wet/dry sandpaper
?	horizontal bandsaw for cutting stock, bimetal blades. 
?	bench grinder for grinding lathe bits. Wheels, incl. a diamond wheel if you want to sharpen carbide. Grinding wheel dresser. 
?	lathe tool blanks, for grinding
?	belt/disk sander
?	Swing arm magnifying lamp, mounted over lathe/mill
?	way lube/spindle lube
?	safety shield with mag base
?	center punch
?	scribes
?	reamers
?	stub length drill bits
?	countersink bits
?	metal, plastic to cut (OnlineMetals, SpeedyMetals, etc).
?	A shop vacuum

Some sources: Shars, Travers Tool, Enco, MSC, Grizzly Ind., Tools4cheap, CDCO, Little Machine Shop, Ebay, Machine Shop Discount Club, Reid Tool Supply, Anytimetools.

Please feel free to add to this list!

Best,

Nelson


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## aametalmaster

Don't forget the tweezers and a magnifing glass for the little splinters. I keep both at lathe side...Bob


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## aametalmaster

Save your old broken taps. They can be ground for lathe tooling for special projects where you don't want to use a sq tool bit for one job like a small groove...Bob


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## British Steel

I'll add to the list! Stuff I find makes life easier:

DTI gauge and stand/holder (essential for centring in the 4-jaw, checking lathe alignment etc.)
ball-bearing on a toolblank for quick centring stock in the chuck (unbelievably fast, accurate enough for Government Work!)
dremeloid (with a bracket it's a toolpost internal grinder, a cross-drilling spindle, incredibly-light-duty milling head - too many uses to count!)
variable-speed router motor in a bracket (see above, but 1/2 HP instead of 1/20th! Its bearings are designed for side loads, too)
Taper adaptor (fits on the back of the bed, shifts the cross-slide to cut tapered work like Morse tapers, pipe threads)
quick-withdraw toolpost / cross-slide (speeds up threading like you wouldn't believe!)
Fishtail gauge for grinding / setting threading tools
Band-Aids - assuming you've got HSS sharpening under your belt 

definite +1 on the QC toolpost

Just my ha'pennorth, Dave H.


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## Dutch

Shars = discount_machine on ebay. The ebay prices are quite a bit lower than the Shars catalog and I've had excellent service from them off ebay. 

http://stores.ebay.com/Discount-Machine-Shop?_rdc=1

Some other ebay vendors I've done biz with:

800watt http://shop.ebay.com/800watt/m.html?_nkw=&amp;_armrs=1&amp;_from=&amp;_ipg=25

AZtool-Jerry http://stores.ebay.com/AZTOOL-JERRY?_rdc=1

hemlytool http://stores.ebay.com/hemlytool?_rdc=1

Keen Abrasives http://stores.ebay.com/KEEN-ABRASIVES?_rdc=1

Speedy Metals http://stores.ebay.com/The-Speedy-Metals-Listings-Store?_rdc=1
I usually buy off their website www.speedymetals.com

Dutch


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## Robert62

Some more things to add:
- An adapter so I can quickly put all my lathe chucks on my rotary table
- A quick change tool post adapter to hold my dremel tool


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## Ozwelder

One thing I find I could not do with out is a roll of toilet paper and holder.
It's there and handy for any spills or wiping up the oil when I oil and clean out the bed ways and slides. The credit goes the the bloke who fixes stringed instruments and has a bit of a site full of those handy tips.

Also put long tee handles on the allen key that unscrews the 3 cap head bolts holding the  compound slide.The tee handle raises the turning well effort above the toolpost  level and makes the task so quick and non fidlly .


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## Turner-Tom

Not forgetting...The Bloody Big Hammer!!!!

Not only will it make all things "Fit" better!

But you can hurl it through the window and feel much better about life! :thumbsup:


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## donthack

How about some collets and stops.  Makes great work for small stock.


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## stupoty

aametalmaster said:


> Save your old broken taps. They can be ground for lathe tooling for special projects where you don't want to use a sq tool bit for one job like a small groove...Bob



My most used boring bar uses little pieces of centre drill for the tool, makes a good use for them.

Stuart


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## ome

. said:


> ?    quick change tool post and holders
> ?    cutoff tool and holder
> ?     knurling tool
> ?    lathe cutting tools, including inside and outside threading. HSS and maybe indexable carbide
> ?    follower rest
> ?    steady rest
> ?    live center
> ?    lathe faceplate
> ?    collets
> ?    4-jaw independent chuck
> ?    boring bar for lathe
> ?    carriage stops and carriage dial indicator holder for lathe
> ?    tailstock drill chuck with taper adapter
> ?    lathe dog, dead center for lathe spindle and faceplate or driving plate
> ?    milling attachment for lathe
> ?    center drills
> ?    assorted files and wet/dry sandpaper
> ?    horizontal bandsaw for cutting stock, bimetal blades.
> ?    bench grinder for grinding lathe bits. Wheels, incl. a diamond wheel if you want to sharpen carbide. Grinding wheel dresser.
> ?    lathe tool blanks, for grinding
> ?    belt/disk sander
> ?    Swing arm magnifying lamp, mounted over lathe/mill
> ?    way lube/spindle lube
> ?    safety shield with mag base
> ?    center punch
> ?    scribes
> ?    reamers
> ?    stub length drill bits
> ?    countersink bits
> ?    metal, plastic to cut (OnlineMetals, SpeedyMetals, etc).
> ?    A shop vacuum
> 
> Some sources: Shars, Travers Tool, Enco, MSC, Grizzly Ind., Tools4cheap, CDCO, Little Machine Shop, Ebay, Machine Shop Discount Club, Reid Tool Supply, Anytimetools.
> 
> Please feel free to add to this list!
> 
> ,Best,
> 
> Nelson


Hi Nelson,
Thanks for the list, which I hope is ok to add a few machines to this great list.

?  A small surface grinder( even though I got it a week ago, I love this little machine)
?  A Hepa filtered vacuum specific to removing toxic metals from grinding carbide, has a bag to empty when  full. 

Thanks,
Jon


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## samthedog

Swarf hook, color matched touch-up paint and small brush to touch up dings and scratches, diamond hone to touch up bits, cutting oil and small brush, first aid kit, rough use caliper and nice caliper / micrometer.

Paul.


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## hdskip

I make small boring bars from broken end mills.
   Gary


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## NodakGary

Was a tool-shaping/sharpening grinder mentioned.  Don't forget a couple small containers of water for cooling the cutters as you sharpen them.  And for cooling the operator on those hot days.  And for cooling the chunk of steel wool that starts to smoke and glimmer in the welding end of the shop after it reminds you it didn't like being there.  Don't ask me how I know.  
NodakGary
Ready for Spring.  How about you?


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## Joe0121

Turner-Tom said:


> Not forgetting...The Bloody Big Hammer!!!!
> 
> Not only will it make all things "Fit" better!
> 
> But you can hurl it through the window and feel much better about life! :thumbsup:


In the states we call those BFH

Or Big F***** Hammer.  A very useful tool in the auto repair industry.


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## Xiansheng

Re the list at the start of this thread, is there a list of URLs or whatever that provides access to information about these items?


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## Doubleeboy

Double stick tape, hold thin parts to faceplate for turning, or similarly use for milling thin parts on mill.   Caution, do not put tape over 100% of part or you will spend a long time removing part.   Acetone will help weaken the tape if you over do it.


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## Rex Walters

Kinda obvious, but a digital caliper is amazingly handy, especially when turning to size. Zero the caliper, adjust to the diameter you want, re-zero, then measure the diameter of your part while it's in the chuck or collet. Now you know exactly how much to take off. Despite their cheap price and "very near" reputation, I've found them surprisingly accurate. Use a micrometer if you need tenths accuracy, but calipers are usually accurate enough for the work I do (the mic always gives the same reading, except when I don't use the mic ;-).

Also, if you have a small lathe like mine with a cross-slide dial that reads radial dimensions rather than "direct reading" diameters, consider making larger dials and marking them to read diameters directly. It's amazing how much mental friction the constant halving/doubling of dimensions causes -- so glad I made this improvement to my lathe.

Now I'm off to hunt around outside (far outside) my shop window for my, uh, "collection" of broken taps....


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## rrdstarr

A ball turning tool blueprint would be very helpful!

Thanks!
Rick



Joe0121 said:


> In the states we call those BFH
> 
> Or Big F***** Hammer.  A very useful tool in the auto repair industry.





Nels said:


> ?    quick change tool post and holders
> ?    cutoff tool and holder
> ?     knurling tool
> ?    lathe cutting tools, including inside and outside threading. HSS and maybe indexable carbide
> ?    follower rest
> ?    steady rest
> ?    live center
> ?    lathe faceplate
> ?    collets
> ?    4-jaw independent chuck
> ?    boring bar for lathe
> ?    carriage stops and carriage dial indicator holder for lathe
> ?    tailstock drill chuck with taper adapter
> ?    lathe dog, dead center for lathe spindle and faceplate or driving plate
> ?    milling attachment for lathe
> ?    center drills
> ?    assorted files and wet/dry sandpaper
> ?    horizontal bandsaw for cutting stock, bimetal blades.
> ?    bench grinder for grinding lathe bits. Wheels, incl. a diamond wheel if you want to sharpen carbide. Grinding wheel dresser.
> ?    lathe tool blanks, for grinding
> ?    belt/disk sander
> ?    Swing arm magnifying lamp, mounted over lathe/mill
> ?    way lube/spindle lube
> ?    safety shield with mag base
> ?    center punch
> ?    scribes
> ?    reamers
> ?    stub length drill bits
> ?    countersink bits
> ?    metal, plastic to cut (OnlineMetals, SpeedyMetals, etc).
> ?    A shop vacuum
> 
> Some sources: Shars, Travers Tool, Enco, MSC, Grizzly Ind., Tools4cheap, CDCO, Little Machine Shop, Ebay, Machine Shop Discount Club, Reid Tool Supply, Anytimetools.
> 
> Please feel free to add to this list!
> 
> Best,
> 
> Nelson


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## hvontres

Rex Walters said:


> Kinda obvious, but a digital caliper is amazingly handy, especially when turning to size. Zero the caliper, adjust to the diameter you want, re-zero, then measure the diameter of your part while it's in the chuck or collet. Now you know exactly how much to take off. Despite their cheap price and "very near" reputation, I've found them surprisingly accurate. Use a micrometer if you need tenths accuracy, but calipers are usually accurate enough for the work I do (the mic always gives the same reading, except when I don't use the mic ;-).
> 
> Also, if you have a small lathe like mine with a cross-slide dial that reads radial dimensions rather than "direct reading" diameters, consider making larger dials and marking them to read diameters directly. It's amazing how much mental friction the constant halving/doubling of dimensions causes -- so glad I made this improvement to my lathe.
> 
> Now I'm off to hunt around outside (far outside) my shop window for my, uh, "collection" of broken taps....


And if you are lucky enough to own a digital mic or two, you can use the same trick down to the tenths. This is also an easy way to do metric work on on inch lathe or inch work on a metric lathe.


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## Silverbullet

Several good overhead lights always helps , a maid to clean up after us , plenty of shelves and cabinets for storing . Automatic oilers for our lathes one pump type, even hour meters to keep track of jobs and times to service the machines.


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## rrjohnso2000

Which hone are you guys using to touch up/polish HSS?


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## stupoty

I use an oil stone a lot for final buffing of HSS

Stuart


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## doco

Turner-Tom said:


> Not forgetting...The Bloody Big Hammer!!!!
> 
> Not only will it make all things "Fit" better!
> 
> But you can hurl it through the window and feel much better about life! :thumbsup:


You never want to force anything - so get a bigger hammer...


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## RIMSPOKE

Please feel free to add to this list! 

THIS IS ONE I COOKED UP A FEW YEARS AGO . 
IT IS A SIX JAW 4" BUCK CHUCK MOUNTED ON A SOLID 5-c COLLET .  

THIS IS PERFECT FOR GRIPPING SMALL & DELICATE PARTS . 
THE 5-C MOUNTING WAS DONE BY WELDING A MOUNTING PLATE TO A SOLID COLLET 
AND THEM MACHINING ALL THE MOUNTING SURFACES SO IT RUNS TRUE . 

THIS MAKES IT EASY TO GO FROM A COLLET TO THE CHUCK & BACK . 
I HAVE BOTH INSIDE & OUTSIDE JAWS FOR IT .


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Rimspoke, do you dabble in outboards? Or did you?


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## RIMSPOKE

Rimspoke, do you dabble in outboards? Or did you? 

I HAVE NEVER HAD AN OUTBOARD . 
HIT-N-MISS & MICROCARS MOTORS ARE MORE UP MY ALLEY .


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Freeway?????


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## RIMSPOKE

Freeway?????

WELL ,NO .
THAT ONE IS A MESSERSCHMITT TIGER WITH A HONDA 600 COUPE DRIVETRAIN .
IT IS FULL OF SPECIALLY MACHINED PARTS .  36 HORSES IN A 750 POUND CAR .




BUT NOW THAT YOU MENTION THE FREEWAY , HERE ARE MY TWO FREEWAYS .
THE YELLOW ONE IS BRIGGS V-TWIN POWERED & THE RED ONE IS STOCK TECUMSEH .


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

I recognized the username, I had a Freeway as well... sold it to Jim as I was moving and could not find anyplace  with enough room to keep mine... Of course once I sold it, a home popped up with PLENTY of room....LOL I do miss my little yellow car     Good to see you again


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## charris9130

I work on outboard an inboard motors I got a Shop in Clarksville Tennessee

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## charris9130

I want to thank you for sharing that I just bought another Lathe
	

		
			
		

		
	






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## charris9130

they had it hooked up and running I'm in the process of opening up automotive machine shop I just got a real good deal on that I have a small jet we been using I'm I'm closing up for tonight the shop up and head to the house

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## Holt

I find it very strange that no one have mentioned digital readout, it's one of the very best upgrades you can make for your lathe (and mill for that matter)


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## dlane

Thanks to all with full size pics


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## Downunder Bob

Joe0121 said:


> In the states we call those BFH
> 
> Or Big F***** Hammer.  A very useful tool in the auto repair industry.



If you haven't fixed it, you didn't use a big enough hammer. (old marine engineers saying.)


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## tertiaryjim

In the millwrights we called em Beaters. Had to be minimum 2.5 lbs.
This was carried up to 16 lbs when they were rated as sledge hammers.
No! Not 8lb 10lb or even 12lb with a long handle. Still beaters.
Spent many hours swinging a 20 lb sledge while balancing on a turbine shell.
Then came the hydraulic wrenches and they were the best thing since fire was invented. 
Sorry. Just needed to ramble.


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## Downunder Bob

tertiaryjim said:


> In the millwrights we called em Beaters. Had to be minimum 2.5 lbs.
> This was carried up to 16 lbs when they were rated as sledge hammers.
> No! Not 8lb 10lb or even 12lb with a long handle. Still beaters.
> Spent many hours swinging a 20 lb sledge while balancing on a turbine shell.
> Then came the hydraulic wrenches and they were the best thing since fire was invented.
> Sorry. Just needed to ramble.



In my early days as a marine engineer I can remember using a 28 lb sledge on a flogging spanner tightening the nuts on a cylinder head of a large marine diesel engine.


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## Downunder Bob

Holt said:


> I find it very strange that no one have mentioned digital readout, it's one of the very best upgrades you can make for your lathe (and mill for that matter)


Never felt the need. Does it make the machine any more accurate, or does it just compensate for lack of machinist skills. It's a bit like driving a car with auto trans, you're not driving only stearing it.

Speaking of Auto trans, I remember as a teenager that we used to say auto was invented for people who live in San Francisco, because most roads are on steep inclines and and every cross treet has traffic lights, and most people couldn't cope with clutch starts.


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## hman

A DRO has two advantages, at least for me:
(1) It saves counting turns.  This is especially nice with Chinese tools that have metric leadscrews and pseudo-inch calibrations on the dials, or else 1/16" pitch leadscrews.  It's always a challenge to convert an inch measurement to turns in these circumstances.  Yes, it can be done.  But when I'm machining, I want to use the limited bandwidth of my aging brain to decide on details other than keeping track of turns.
(2) It lets you know where you *are* (OK ... where the tool is) regardless of backlash.  You don't have to keep track of which way you last turned the crank.  Think of using an edge finder to find the center of a part, where you have to approach opposite faces from opposite directions.  Again, it can be done.  But to do a good job, you have to know the amount of backlash to a gnat's eyelash.  Very easy to make a mistake.

YMMV


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## John25

One of my most useful workshop 'tools' is a telescopic magnet to save me bending down every time I drop a tool or drill bit etc.


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## Downunder Bob

John25 said:


> One of my most useful workshop 'tools' is a telescopic magnet to save me bending down every time I drop a tool or drill bit etc.



Yes, I've got a few of them scattered around the shop, I can no longer pick up anything from the floor. I've also got a couple of those gripper type picker upper things for the non magnetic stuff.


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## John25

Also useful, when I put a polly bag over it, for picking up swarf and chips, reverse the bag and shake into the bin.

I also use poly bags with internal magnets as way protectors and do as above.

Not my idea, this or another forum tip.


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## toolman120

John25 said:


> Also useful, when I put a polly bag over it, for picking up swarf and chips, reverse the bag and shake into the bin.
> 
> I also use poly bags with internal magnets as way protectors and do as above.
> 
> Not my idea, this or another forum tip.


For collecting swarf i made a gadget with a retractable rare earth magnet inside a capped copper water pipe with a generous size grommet a few inches from the end.
Magnet works through the copper to grab a handful of swarf, then when over my shop bin, retract the magnet up the tube and the grommet scrapes off all the swarf.

Best thing since sliced bread.

I used surplus carbon fibre tent pole as the inner shaft but wood dowel would do fine or aluminium.  Cost me only for the 2 end caps...total of $2.00
 The pole, tube,  shaft, magnet and a screw to secure a surplus magnet to the shaft were all in junk stock.

You can buy them for about $80. 






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## Downunder Bob

toolman120 said:


> For collecting swarf i made a gadget with a retractable rare earth magnet inside a capped copper water pipe with a generous size grommet a few inches from the end.
> Magnet works through the copper to grab a handful of swarf, then when over my shop bin, retract the magnet up the tube and the grommet scrapes off all the swarf.
> 
> Best thing since sliced bread.
> 
> I used surplus carbon fibre tent pole as the inner shaft but wood dowel would do fine or aluminium.  Cost me only for the 2 end caps...total of $2.00
> The pole, tube,  shaft, magnet and a screw to secure a surplus magnet to the shaft were all in junk stock.
> 
> You can buy them for about $80.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


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## hman

Here's something similar I've made a bunch of.  K&S brass tubing, .005" brass shim soft soldered on the end, edges trimmed off, ø8mm x 20mm RE magnet, steel screw (end drilled 3/32") soft soldered to 3/32" copper coated welding rod, rubber washer.  I make a batch of them every once in a while and pass them around at machinist club meetings.  It's thin enough to reach into the T-slot grooves on a mill table.  Just wish I could figger out how to make it work for aluminum


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## Doodle

I use the Harbor Freight Tool Indexable lathe Bits #39931. At $25 they are a bargain for a whole set. The only HSS tool grinding I have done is for fly cutting 6061 for a nice finish. I have found the insert tooling will work in fly cutting hard steel.


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## Silverbullet

You guys talk about BFH , I remember having to use a 20lb sledge to move castings on a boring mill and a open sided planer. That and 6' digging bar , these castings weighed in at about a ton. Lots of good work at everworth machine. It's a wonder all of us who worked there are still alive we repacked the furnace doors and baked them every weekend. Really good guys and friends worked lots of hours together you could count on them that's close knit shop. One old guy was a boozer to the point at lunch if he didn't come back he was drunk at otts down the road. Our foreman would take him home after the shift. I think he saw to much in ww11 . Lots of my friends did .


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## homebrewed

A "good" end mill can be used as a small boring bar, too.  I once made a decorative spinning water sprinkler which used nested brass tubing and some brass rings for the rotating seal.  The rings were separated by nylon balls for a low-friction bearing (all this stuff went inside some 1/2" copper tubing).  I needed to turn the IDs of the brass rings to match the two pieces of nesting brass tubing, but all my standard boring bars were too big.  After some thought I grabbed my smallest end mill whose shank matched my boring bar holder, rotated it so one of the cutters was in line with the cross slide motion, and went to work.  It worked beautifully.  I was concerned about the "grab" that might result, since the cutter effectively has a large positive rake (and I was machining brass), but it went fine -- I just took it easy with a lot of light cuts.

Caveat:  This would work OK with softer materials but boring steel might produce an uneven wear pattern on the end mill.


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## bobl

hman said:


> A DRO has two advantages, at least for me:
> (1) It saves counting turns.  This is especially nice with Chinese tools that have metric leadscrews and pseudo-inch calibrations on the dials, or else 1/16" pitch leadscrews.  It's always a challenge to convert an inch measurement to turns in these circumstances.  Yes, it can be done.  But when I'm machining, I want to use the limited bandwidth of my aging brain to decide on details other than keeping track of turns.
> (2) It lets you know where you *are* (OK ... where the tool is) regardless of backlash.  You don't have to keep track of which way you last turned the crank.  Think of using an edge finder to find the center of a part, where you have to approach opposite faces from opposite directions.  Again, it can be done.  But to do a good job, you have to know the amount of backlash to a gnat's eyelash.  Very easy to make a mistake.
> 
> YMMV



Great for pitching out holes 


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## Downunder Bob

I haven't tried  a DRO yet always done it the old way, but I might have to soon, as my eyes aren't what they used to be. I had to trade the old faithful vernier caliper in for a digtal one a few years ago, I just couldn't read the fine divisions any more.

I don't have a problem with the dials on my new lathe, the lead screws are all imperial but all the hand wheels are calibrated in both imperial and metric, and so far appear to be quit accurate.


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## Bamban

Monitoring the tool post instead of the cross slide when making adjustments especially when I used to thread with the compound or making sub thou cut to hit a certain dimension

When turning to a shoulder I feel more confident watching an analog indicator instead of digits flipping around. I love the Trav-A-Dial.


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## Downunder Bob

Bamban said:


> Monitoring the tool post instead of the cross slide when making adjustments especially when I used to thread with the compound or making sub thou cut to hit a certain dimension
> 
> When turning to a shoulder I feel more confident watching an analog indicator instead of digits flipping around. I love the Trav-A-Dial.
> 
> 
> View attachment 241024
> 
> 
> View attachment 241023



Looks good, but they're awfully bloody expensive.


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## Downunder Bob

bobshobby said:


> I haven't tried  a DRO yet always done it the old way, but I might have to soon, as my eyes aren't what they used to be. I had to trade the old faithful vernier caliper in for a digtal one a few years ago, I just couldn't read the fine divisions any more.
> 
> I don't have a problem with the dials on my new lathe, the lead screws are all imperial but all the hand wheels are calibrated in both imperial and metric, and so far appear to be quit accurate.



I reckon, I could make a pretty good DRO out of a digital caliper, works in Imp, and metric, can reset zero anywhere, and very cheap.


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## epanzella

I really rely on my dial indicator mounts for accuracy. Nothing I've tried had as big an impact on the quality of my work. I have fixed mounts on my xslide and long feed. I used movable magnetic mounts on my compound and milling attachment.




x


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## Downunder Bob

Joe0121 said:


> In the states we call those BFH
> 
> Or Big F***** Hammer.  A very useful tool in the auto repair industry.


I always say "if you haven't fixed it yet, you haven't used a big enough hammer",old marine engineers saying.


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## Larry$

I use my collet chuck way more than I thought I would. After I got used to using the DRO I find it very helpful. I often have to make repairs to metric machines. Being able to instantly switch " to mm big +! The DRO is also a big help in setting the taper attachment. Calculating angles using the built in calculator is a nice feature. So is being able to store up to 99 positions for when doing multiples work. It shows the actual position, no counting turns or not remembering if I took up the back lash.


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## KBeitz

For collecting swarf I use a Bingo magnet... Works great...
Two more for the list...
A spring making attachment. Never hold spring making wire with your hands.
second... I put a pipe threading fast close chuck on the far left side of my
head stock to help hold long bars when turning. It also makes a good bar stop
for making repeated parts.


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## DLF

Drop head threading tool. For threading with the chuck in reverse
	

		
			
		

		
	




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