# Repairing machine vice



## Suzuki4evr (Apr 5, 2018)

So this is the vice I got with my mill/drill and I finally got around to refurbish it.




As you can see it has a bit of drill damage,which I will fill up with JB weld and machine it down. It also has a bit too much play. But the main problem is it is not parallel with the mill bed. So I am going to sort that out.
I stripped it completely to see where the problem lies.




The screw and nut needed to be replaced. 
I clamped both the top and bottom part to the bed and flycut those true to the bed.




I assebled the base and middle section and trammed the vice.
It looks good from one side to the other....way better than before.




 I milled the jaw landing,replaced the jaw and squared that up too.




This is the first time I did ACME thread and I must say it went pretty well with the screw with the 15/16 - 5Tpi thread. The nut on the other hand gave me a bit of resistance. But that was mainly because of the small bore and I did not quite have the right internal boring bar,but it all worked out fine.










This is the final product comparison pic of that.


I went on to flycut,mill,skim every flat section true and parallel to the bed and to take out any extra play between  the top part and bed section.




Lastley I milled the jaws true and square. And this is the final product.




 Just need to make a spanner for it.
This took me a while,but it was all good fun. I want to repaint it,but the paint suppliers gave me a hefty price on oil resistant paint. I am not sure if I want to pay over $25 for a litre of hammerite paint. Any suggestions for oil resistant paint is welcome, I just don't know if what you guys have in the US and the rest of the world is available in SA. Thanks for watching.

Michael.


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## Ulma Doctor (Apr 5, 2018)

nice work on the rebuild!!


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## markba633csi (Apr 5, 2018)

Great restoration!  Myself, I would just polish it and keep it lightly oiled, rather than paint.
Mark


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## Suzuki4evr (Apr 5, 2018)

Ulma Doctor said:


> nice work on the rebuild!!


Lots of hours went into it,but all worth it. It's like new and beats buying a new one for sure.


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## Suzuki4evr (Apr 5, 2018)

markba633csi said:


> Great restoration!  Myself, I would just polish it and keep it lightly oiled, rather than paint.
> Mark


Sounds like a plan


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## hman (Apr 5, 2018)

Fantastic work! Looks like you now have all the operations down, and could make yourself an entirely new vise from just a big hunk of raw cast iron.


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## Suzuki4evr (Apr 5, 2018)

hman said:


> Fantastic work! Looks like you now have all the operations down, and could make yourself an entirely new vise from just a big hunk of raw cast iron.


And then I'll send it to you


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## Silverbullet (Apr 5, 2018)

Nice rebuild , much better then buying new I think it's cut and fit right to your machine . You know t inside and out what could be better.  Any epoxy paint or an oil base you can add hardener to it. Most car engine high heat paints will work also. You can mix steel or cast iron grindings into the epoxy to look more like metal. Or use a metal epoxy.


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## Suzuki4evr (Apr 6, 2018)

Silverbullet said:


> Nice rebuild , much better then buying new I think it's cut and fit right to your machine . You know t inside and out what could be better.  Any epoxy paint or an oil base you can add hardener to it. Most car engine high heat paints will work also. You can mix steel or cast iron grindings into the epoxy to look more like metal. Or use a metal epoxy.


This sounds like a good idea.Sorry Mark but Silverbullets idea is beating yours by a hair


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## thomas s (Apr 6, 2018)

Wow nice job.


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## Suzuki4evr (May 21, 2018)

I finally got around to making the crank wheel for my refurbished vice.
I kind of forgot to take pictures of the proses,but you will get the idea.
Firstly I had to make a 20mm square broach,something I've never done before. I did not have drillrod available so I used Key steel.


 I know this isn't the proper way to do it but it got the job done and I would be able to use the broach again. I made the broach copying a YouTube clip and then heated it bright red and quenched it in water. Well the square shape in the bush tells the story(so it worked ). I put the bush in the dividing head and made 3 M10 holes on the 10degree flat of the bush plus a M8 hole for a locking grubscrew.
I then made three crank handles and a end cap with a square to pressfit into the bush just finnish it of.
And that was that.






 Looks good and works greate.
Thanks for viewing . 

Michael


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## malmac (May 21, 2018)

Terrific - my vice is shaking in it's boots - it can see it might be in for a hard time.


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## Silverbullet (May 22, 2018)

I think your handle is just perfection. Clean and smooth like it should be . In fact I want one on mine now. So that means three of them. So ill gather materials for six and be ready. Even be nicer on the drill mill then it's plastic crappy one. YUPP great job.


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## Suzuki4evr (May 22, 2018)

Silverbullet said:


> I think your handle is just perfection. Clean and smooth like it should be . In fact I want one on mine now. So that means three of them. So ill gather materials for six and be ready. Even be nicer on the drill mill then it's plastic crappy one. YUPP great job.


Thanks Silverbullet,you can make the wheel shafts as long as you want,mine is 14mm×120mm long,but can make them a bit shorter if you want. Can't have to much leverage can you.... I made the endcap that fit perfectly into the square hole as an after thought and am glad I did,it finishes it off nicely.


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