# South Bend 13" mechanical restoration



## Sugarkryptonite (Jan 22, 2021)

Hi guys,

I'm a *beginner *to the machining world. Grew up watching my dad working on his SB13, mills, welders, etc. My dad had this lathe sitting around as a spare for his SB13 in the corner of our shop. I asked one day if I could restore it and he said sure. This will be a slow process, and definitely not a full restoration as some of the other people on here have done, maybe more of a "functional" restoration.

Started by doing some vacuuming and quick degreasing of some parts, as well as removing the old motor and installing a new old stock Baldor:


















Removed the old GE DC motor






New Baldor motor with pulley adapter mounted and ready to go






Mounted in the lathe:











And first quick test cut with the machine after sitting for *many many many* years:






And finally here's a video of the first time it spun in years:






Pulled the tail stock off the machine. Tried to also loosen the 4 bolts that hold the apron on, and wow...couldn't get them off. I'm guessing someone lock tited them in there. Might have to try some heat...Anyone have any tricks for that? I tried an impact screw driver but no luck...

Also picked up a new VFD, an amazing deal locally. Brand new old stock from 2010. Still in the original box with the manual and original sales receipt.


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## brino (Jan 22, 2021)

Very nice lathe!

The original motor was DC? Did it have a controller/speed control?

I bet the Baldor lasts a very long time.

Congratulations!
-brino


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## Sugarkryptonite (Jan 22, 2021)

brino said:


> Very nice lathe!
> 
> The original motor was DC? Did it have a controller/speed control?
> 
> ...



Hi brino

Thanks! Yes it was DC. It did have a controller at one time, but is long gone now, thus the reason why I switched to another motor. I had looked up getting the DC motor running but it just seemed like a headache needing field windings and everything powered at different voltages. Plus we had this Baldor motor sitting around BNIB...My dad has also had the same Baldor motor in his running SB13 for many many years with no issues, as well as a Pullmax.


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## markba633csi (Jan 22, 2021)

It's a beaut
-M


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## Sugarkryptonite (Jan 23, 2021)

Started the long cleaning process. Any recommendations for paint that you guys have used before with success? Some parts will be bare but most of them will have the original paint still on and just painted over (touch-up).


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## Technical Ted (Jan 23, 2021)

I use Rustoleum Smoke Gray for all my shop machines.

Ted


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## Sugarkryptonite (Jan 23, 2021)

Technical Ted said:


> I use Rustoleum Smoke Gray for all my shop machines.
> 
> Ted


Thanks, Ted. Do you add any hardeners to the Rustoleum? Brushed on? That stuff takes FOREVER to dry/cure!


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## Technical Ted (Jan 23, 2021)

I only use a brush. I don't try to get them to look brand new. They are just going to get dirty again anyways.  Some guys take them down to bare metal, Bondo them were needed and spray paint, etc.. They do look really nice that way, but I'm more of a function over form type of guy and a brush job makes them look good enough for me!

The paint is usually dry for me in 24 hours. Depends on the weather/humidity. No hardeners. Straight out of the can.

Ted


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## Sugarkryptonite (Jan 23, 2021)

Technical Ted said:


> I only use a brush. I don't try to get them to look brand new. They are just going to get dirty again anyways.  Some guys take them down to bare metal, Bondo them were needed and spray paint, etc.. They do look really nice that way, but I'm more of a function over form type of guy and a brush job makes them look good enough for me!
> 
> The paint is usually dry for me in 24 hours. Depends on the weather/humidity. No hardeners. Straight out of the can.
> 
> Ted


Thanks. I'm the same way as you. It's not a Ferrari....well not to me, anyway.

Also, do you apply any primer before painting with the Rustoleum, Ted? @Technical Ted


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## Technical Ted (Jan 24, 2021)

No primer. I usually will give things two coats. The second coat goes on fast.

Ted


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## Sugarkryptonite (Jan 24, 2021)

Technical Ted said:


> No primer. I usually will give things two coats. The second coat goes on fast.
> 
> Ted


Thanks. Having a hard time finding the gloss smoke gray color here in Canada...boo. I think they only sell Tremclad brand here, not Rustoleum.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Jan 29, 2021)

More cleaning & teardown...


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## Tim9 (Jan 30, 2021)

Personally, I’d just wipe that lathe down with mineral spirits and clean it. It’s really not that bad. That color grows on me after a while. And it’s in really nice shape. That is a very nice South Bend lathe.
I’d do the quick tear downs, clean any scarf and such. Check the bearings like you are doing. And then just  level it and align tailstock. The lathe looks like it was very well cared for. I’m betting that lathe needs very little for it to be up and making chips. Even the bed looks great. There’s hardly any nicks from when the chuck slips out the hand and bangs against the bed.

  I’d get a close match of paint and paint the tailstock and maybe the cross-slide. But I’d leave the rest alone. The pedestal and base looks pretty good in my opinion. 
With my lathe, I only cleaned and painted the stuff which was rusted. I did the quick and easy stuff. 
   its presentable in my opinion. I’m not planning on entering it in a beauty contest.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Jan 30, 2021)

Tim9 said:


> Personally, I’d just wipe that lathe down with mineral spirits and clean it. It’s really not that bad. That color grows on me after a while. And it’s in really nice shape. That is a very nice South Bend lathe.
> I’d do the quick tear downs, clean any scarf and such. Check the bearings like you are doing. And then just  level it and align tailstock. The lathe looks like it was very well cared for. I’m betting that lathe needs very little for it to be up and making chips. Even the bed looks great. There’s hardly any nicks from when the chuck slips out the hand and bangs against the bed.
> 
> I’d get a close match of paint and paint the tailstock and maybe the cross-slide. But I’d leave the rest alone. The pedestal and base looks pretty good in my opinion.
> ...


You're right, it is in pretty good shape. I think I might end up painting the whole thing, though. Still deciding. Matching old paint I think would result in the tailstock looking brand new, and the rest of it looking old. it is still pretty faded and scratches all over.


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## Tim9 (Jan 31, 2021)

I just did the easy stuff. Took less than two hours. if I was planning on selling it... yeah, I’d go all out and do a good paint job because the masses wants shiny and pretty. But, I just want to use my tools. I do like presentable, but time is precious  and I’m getting older. I try To step back and prioritize stuff these days.
########.  ###### . ####

But.... Just a little edit here.... Make no mistake. I’m not at all critical of you wanting it shiny and bright. I would love a brand new shiny and bright Real Lathe. Hell... I’d love to find one of those 1970’s USA lathes which sat in some science laboratory somewhere. 
   And I must admit...in my younger anal days... I know I’d totally disassemble my lathe... totally repaint it. I’m just not there anymore. But to each their own. That’s  what makes the world go round guys and gals.  The world would be a boring place if we all dressed the same.... did the same.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Jan 31, 2021)

Had a go at taking off the chuck that was seized on there. Took it off the backing plate then had to heat up the threads to get it off finally with a good whack and 5ft of steel bar. More cleaning & started polishing some pieces today.































Starting to look more bare...


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## MyLilMule (Jan 31, 2021)

Technical Ted said:


> No primer. I usually will give things two coats. The second coat goes on fast.
> 
> Ted


I am doing the same thing, although I am taking 99% of the paint off. Primarily because a yahoo previous owner (likely the college that purchased it in 1941, painted it this God awful turquoise greenish looking color and most of it is peeling. And they painted over the oil cups, and there are globs of it on the bottom of the apron. I couldn't just leave it like that.

If some of the factory filler get stripped away, too, so be it.


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## MyLilMule (Jan 31, 2021)

Tim9 said:


> Personally, I’d just wipe that lathe down with mineral spirits and clean it. It’s really not that bad.



If it's been sitting that long, it's probably worth the trouble to tear it down, inspect everything, and replace all of the felts. Paint or, or don't paint it. But the tear down is a good idea.


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## Tim9 (Feb 2, 2021)

I agree. And I have done all of that on my lathe. I’ve had the compound and cross-slide apart more than once. Everything has been cleaned and adjusted. Felts replaced too. Oils replaced. So looks can be deceiving. I didn’t repaint the upper part of my lathe but it’s in great shape mechanically. I’ve redone hydraulics and replaced the Vari-drive bushing. 
Also a new cross-slide screw.   So... like I say, can’t judge books by their covers. Anyway, I kind of like the old paint. Kind of like scars. Builds character.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 2, 2021)

Received my paint today from Sherwin Williams. I like the color. Got it from another user on the Practical Machinist forum. Apparently was a perfect match for a NOS part on a South Bend lathe. It has a slight tinge of green to it, very old South Bend-ish.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 4, 2021)

More parts painted...Seems I didn't want long enough to recoat (although they say 20 hours at 70c I believe), got some frizzling on the paint of the tail stock...will need to wait longer, sand some of it down and then reapply. Hopefully no more problems with that. No problems with the other parts so far.


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## martik777 (Feb 4, 2021)

Here's a very detailed PDF on rebuilding a 13: 1954-south-bend-rebuild.pdf (lathes.co.uk)


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 4, 2021)

martik777 said:


> Here's a very detailed PDF on rebuilding a 13: 1954-south-bend-rebuild.pdf (lathes.co.uk)


Thanks! That is very helpful.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 5, 2021)

Anyone have any tips for making the ways shiny and like new again? I was reading Brad Jacob's restoration thread of his SB13 on Practical Machinist, and somehow he got his ways very nice looking. I don't think he had them ground, either, just cleaned them somehow. He hasn't responded to messages in a while so couldn't really ask him...

Also, I've been avoiding cutting the belt off to save it, but I would like to be able to clean and paint all the lower parts of the machine. Getting belts around here might be difficult. I read that some people have used a 10 rib serpentine belt, glued together with Loctite plastic bonder? Anyone have more info on this? Which belt to buy, etc?


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## Technical Ted (Feb 6, 2021)

At most I might hit the ways with some lesser aggressive ScotBrite and WD40. 

Don't add to the wear by doing much more!

Ted


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 9, 2021)

Tried painting with my HVLP gun today. Worked pretty good. Much better than brushing...thinned down the paint with Varsol and waited about 25 mins between coats. My smaller parts were fine, but I got some small pinholes on my larger piece. How long do you guys usually wait between coats? Not long enough? Recoat time on this S-W paint is something like 3 hours, but that's without thinning and spraying.


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## 38super (Feb 9, 2021)

Any size flat drive leather belts supplier: Al Bino Industrial Belting
					

Al Bino Industrial Belting is your supplier of flat drive belts tailored to your size requirements.   Call for a quote and our smooth order process.



					albinoindustrialbelting.com
				



I'd make a belt guide to help gluing the belt ends together


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## Janderso (Feb 10, 2021)

Sugarkryptonite said:


> Anyone have any tips for making the ways shiny and like new again? I was reading Brad Jacob's restoration thread of his SB13 on Practical Machinist, and somehow he got his ways very nice looking. I don't think he had them ground, either, just cleaned them somehow. He hasn't responded to messages in a while so couldn't really ask him...
> 
> Also, I've been avoiding cutting the belt off to save it, but I would like to be able to clean and paint all the lower parts of the machine. Getting belts around here might be difficult. I read that some people have used a 10 rib serpentine belt, glued together with Loctite plastic bonder? Anyone have more info on this? Which belt to buy, etc?


Those ways look pretty darn good.
I saw the scrape marks by the head stock as they disappear moving toward the tail stock. 
Correct me if I'm wrong, didn't Brad Jacobs just do a superior clean up and a beautiful job with the automotive finish? He didn't do any scraping as I recall.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 10, 2021)

More cleaning today & removed the quick change gearbox assembly. Also cleaned up the ways with WD40 and some gray Scotchbrite. Works decently.


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## brino (Feb 10, 2021)

Wow, your ways look fantastic!

Your Dad's spare lathe is nicer than my "daily driver".....

Congratulations!
-brino


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 11, 2021)

Painted the back side of the lower covers today. They came out really nice! Much better than I was expecting with the gun. Mirror flat finish. Tomorrow might be able to flip them over and paint the other side. In the mean time, I am almost ready to lift the bed and take the lower portion apart.


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## Tim9 (Feb 12, 2021)

Yep.."that’s a real nice SB 13” 

the ways are totally new looking. Looks like it saw very light use. Nice score on that lathe.


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## MyLilMule (Feb 13, 2021)

Wow, you are screaming through this rebuild. I just got the bed off the legs today.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 13, 2021)

MyLilMule said:


> Wow, you are screaming through this rebuild. I just got the bed off the legs today.


Not working right now, so that definitely helps with the progress!

Got the main body of the machine apart today and cleaned up the bed.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 14, 2021)

Guys  any tips for removing the tensioner handle on the base? Seems there’a a pin in the handle but just want to make sure before I go gorilla on it.


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## Technical Ted (Feb 14, 2021)

Clean the paint off it and I think you'll find it's a tapered pin.

Ted


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 14, 2021)

Technical Ted said:


> Clean the paint off it and I think you'll find it's a tapered pin.
> 
> Ted


Hmm yeah...very hard to tell which side is which. I gave a few whacks to the end I thought was right and not even a sign of budging...fun times.

Painted the other side of the panels tonight, seemed to come out nice.


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## Technical Ted (Feb 15, 2021)

Sugarkryptonite said:


> Hmm yeah...very hard to tell which side is which. I gave a few whacks to the end I thought was right and not even a sign of budging...fun times.
> 
> Painted the other side of the panels tonight, seemed to come out nice.



Yep, it can be hard to tell sometimes.... a lot of us have been there. You could try and clean up both ends with a file, buffer, whatever and see if that helps. Sometimes using a scale, dial calipers or some other gage to help estimate which end is which can help. When you pick out the small end, put the piece on something solid (if you can) so a sharp tap with hammer/drift can move the pin more easily.

Ted


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## MyLilMule (Feb 15, 2021)

Sugarkryptonite said:


> Guys  any tips for removing the tensioner handle on the base? Seems there’a a pin in the handle but just want to make sure before I go gorilla on it.


Once you clean the paint off, take some calipers and measure the diameter of the ends of the pin. Should be able to tell. If you can't, take a guess and whack on it with a steel punch and a 5 pound hammer a couple times. If it doesn't budge, try the other side.

If that all fails, try some heat on the handle and repeat above. If THAT doesn't work, you can try drilling it out. I've had luck by drilling into the big end and using a screw extractor. Once the pin starts to spin, it'll usually break free.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 15, 2021)

MyLilMule said:


> Once you clean the paint off, take some calipers and measure the diameter of the ends of the pin. Should be able to tell. If you can't, take a guess and whack on it with a steel punch and a 5 pound hammer a couple times. If it doesn't budge, try the other side.
> 
> If that all fails, try some heat on the handle and repeat above. If THAT doesn't work, you can try drilling it out. I've had luck by drilling into the big end and using a screw extractor. Once the pin starts to spin, it'll usually break free.


Yeah thanks. Still deciding what to do. I'd really like to remove it to paint but might turn into a huge hassle.

Painted more parts tonight. Came out pretty good.


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## MyLilMule (Feb 15, 2021)

I'm brush painting mine. I like the look that it gives and it's a lot less mess and clean up.

But I hear you on how far to take it. I just got the motor and lower cone pulley out from the bell housing on mine. I can't get the taper pin out of the large v-belt pulley. Which will prohibit me from getting the cone pulley off and out as well. I'm debating on if I will drill it, or leave it as is and just do what I can to clean out the oil reservoir and call it a day.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 15, 2021)

MyLilMule said:


> I'm brush painting mine. I like the look that it gives and it's a lot less mess and clean up.
> 
> But I hear you on how far to take it. I just got the motor and lower cone pulley out from the bell housing on mine. I can't get the taper pin out of the large v-belt pulley. Which will prohibit me from getting the cone pulley off and out as well. I'm debating on if I will drill it, or leave it as is and just do what I can to clean out the oil reservoir and call it a day.


Hmm yeah eh. Did you manage to get the pin out of the handle like I showed? Or you haven't touched that yet? Funnily enough, that taper pin on the large v belt pulley came out with no problems for me.


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## MyLilMule (Feb 15, 2021)

Sugarkryptonite said:


> Hmm yeah eh. Did you manage to get the pin out of the handle like I showed? Or you haven't touched that yet? Funnily enough, that taper pin on the large v belt pulley came out with no problems for me.


Mine was a set screw in that handle. I've seen that in a couple places where I was expecting a pin and someone had replaced it with a set screw. It worked and wasn't critical, so I'm leaving it.

I had other taper pins that caused me problems. I have a single tumbler gear box. There's a taper pin that goes through a nut on the cone gear shaft. Had to drill that one out. There's also a taper pin on the rack gear pinion shaft. That one, I discovered, had been broken into three pieces, when at some point in the past the shaft spun on the gear (probably during a crash). So there was no way it was being driven out. Had to remove each end from each side, then once I got the gear off, drill out the piece that was still in the shaft. Fun.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 15, 2021)

MyLilMule said:


> Mine was a set screw in that handle. I've seen that in a couple places where I was expecting a pin and someone had replaced it with a set screw. It worked and wasn't critical, so I'm leaving it.
> 
> I had other taper pins that caused me problems. I have a single tumbler gear box. There's a taper pin that goes through a nut on the cone gear shaft. Had to drill that one out. There's also a taper pin on the rack gear pinion shaft. That one, I discovered, had been broken into three pieces, when at some point in the past the shaft spun on the gear (probably during a crash). So there was no way it was being driven out. Had to remove each end from each side, then once I got the gear off, drill out the piece that was still in the shaft. Fun.


Dang. What do you replace them with? More taper pins? Where do you get those from?


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## MyLilMule (Feb 15, 2021)

Sugarkryptonite said:


> Dang. What do you replace them with? More taper pins? Where do you get those from?


I found them at my local Ace Hardware, believe it or not. I could have gotten them from McMaster-Carr, but I didn't want 25 of them.

If you download the exploded view diagrams from here:

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1617/25079.pdf

You can find the part numbers of the pins. Then look here for the commercially available replacement:

http://wewilliams.net/docs/Commercially Available Hardware Items - Form 1178.pdf

Of course, that's assuming that someone prior to you didn't already go through this and reamed the hole out larger and put in a larger pin. You can get tapered pin reamers off eBay fairly inexpensively.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 15, 2021)

MyLilMule said:


> I found them at my local Ace Hardware, believe it or not. I could have gotten them from McMaster-Carr, but I didn't want 25 of them.
> 
> If you download the exploded view diagrams from here:
> 
> ...


Thanks. I think it will be a nightmare for me to find pins like that here in Canada if they break or I need to drill them out. Not really looking forward to tackling the apron and gearbox.


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## MyLilMule (Feb 15, 2021)

Sugarkryptonite said:


> Thanks. I think it will be a nightmare for me to find pins like that here in Canada if they break or I need to drill them out. Not really looking forward to tackling the apron and gearbox.


Let's hope you have less trouble than I did. And you FIND less trouble than I did. My half nuts were J-U-N-K. But I was able to get replacements.


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## MyLilMule (Feb 15, 2021)

Oh, and even though I am weeks behind putting these together, if you care to share in my mayhem, please feel free to follow along:

1941 South Bend 13" Lathe Restoration

You'll be finished by the time I get to putting mine back together, or even gets these videos published, but it's been fun to record these. Plus, I'll be using them as a reference to put it back together.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 16, 2021)

Getting closer to painting the body...


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## brino (Feb 16, 2021)

Sugarkryptonite said:


> I think it will be a nightmare for me to find pins like that here in Canada if they break or I need to drill them out. Not really looking forward to tackling the apron and gearbox.



One of my local suppliers Ottawa Fastener Supply has taper pins in stock.......however:
i) their website is horrible and they operate the business like it's 1970 with no online ordering, or stock or really anything of interest! SHAME!!!!
ii) we are just recently out of a provincial "stay at home order"....so even in person access may be limited.

Perhaps there is a decent fastener supplier near you?!?!??!
(for me Fastenal is NOT on this list as they only offer the incredible honor of an online account to people with a business number! MORE SHAME!!!)

-brino


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 20, 2021)

Some more updates...did a lot of painting recently. Got the whole bed and supports/pan painted. Still waiting for a few more parts to be painted before putting the base back together.

Pieces came out pretty good. Only a few small drips here and there.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 21, 2021)

More painted parts tonight.  Managed to get the bearings out of the underdrive assembly. Tomorrow I will attempt to turn down the shaft to accept new more obtainable stock bearings (52mm OD x 1 inch ID instead of 52mm x 26mm). They were $9 each compared to the other 88026 bearings which are no longer available from my local supplier.


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## 682bear (Feb 21, 2021)

Sugarkryptonite said:


> More painted parts tonight.  Managed to get the bearings out of the underdrive assembly. Tomorrow I will attempt to turn down the shaft to accept new more obtainable stock bearings (52mm OD x 1 inch ID instead of 52mm x 26mm). They were $9 each compared to the other 88026 bearings which are no longer available from my local supplier.



From ebay:

View attachment 356413


I ordered these to go in the transmission on my Hendey... this may save you a few dollars...

-Bear


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 21, 2021)

682bear said:


> From ebay:
> 
> View attachment 356413
> 
> ...


Hmm, can't see your attachment, it says "you do not have permission to view this page or perform this action." I am guessing its an eBay listing for the 88026 bearing. When I take into account the added fees with currency exchange and shipping to Canada, the price will easily double or even triple depending on how much it costs...that is the major problem here. Also time in getting the item from the USA is a factor.

I hate the non standard bearings anyway, so I will just change them out to the standard ones I bought.


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## 682bear (Feb 21, 2021)

Sugarkryptonite said:


> Hmm, can't see your attachment, it says "you do not have permission to view this page or perform this action." I am guessing its an eBay listing for the 88026 bearing. When I take into account the added fees with currency exchange and shipping to Canada, the price will easily double or even triple depending on how much it costs...that is the major problem here. Also time in getting the item from the USA is a factor.
> 
> I hate the non standard bearings anyway, so I will just change them out to the standard ones I bought.



Hmmm... IDK why it won't show the attachment... yes, it was an ebay ad for the bearings.

You are most likely right... if you can get the bearings local for $9, it wouldn't be worth it, anyway... I didn't notice you are in Canada.

-Bear


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 23, 2021)

Some big progress today. Got all the big parts of the underdrive finally assembled after messing around with the bearings, and got the body back together.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 26, 2021)

Decided to completely strip the tailstock back down again. Hated how the brushed paint looked on it that also got damaged from handling. Painted headstock, tailstock, and various other misc parts tonight.


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## MyLilMule (Feb 26, 2021)

That thing is looked spectacular!


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 26, 2021)

MyLilMule said:


> That thing is looked spectacular!



Thanks a lot!

Here's some more pictures of the freshly painted headstock and tailstock, also partially assembled tailstock.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Feb 27, 2021)

Headstock and tailstock mounted


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## Sugarkryptonite (Mar 2, 2021)

Anyone know what the headstock spindle bearing play is suppose to be for this model with the bronze bearings? I saw a video for a 13" that had just plain bearings (no bronze) and he said 1-2 thou of play when applying 75 lbs of force up. My chuck side bearing has a small amount of play (definitely moves) and the other side has none...I still haven't measured it but soon.


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## MyLilMule (Mar 2, 2021)

I believe the specification if between .0007 and .0015


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## Technical Ted (Mar 2, 2021)

Sugarkryptonite said:


> Anyone know what the headstock spindle bearing play is suppose to be for this model with the bronze bearings? I saw a video for a 13" that had just plain bearings (no bronze) and he said 1-2 thou of play when applying 75 lbs of force up. My chuck side bearing has a small amount of play (definitely moves) and the other side has none...I still haven't measured it but soon.



See the section on spindle bearing adjustment in South Bend's "How to keep your lathe in trim".



			http://www.bluechipmachineshop.com/books/SB_H4.pdf
		


Ted


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## Technical Ted (Mar 2, 2021)

Here's a link to all four of South Bend's bulletins that can be helpful.



			South Bend Bulletins – Blue Chip Machine Shop
		


Ted


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## Sugarkryptonite (Mar 3, 2021)

MyLilMule said:


> I believe the specification if between .0007 and .0015





Technical Ted said:


> See the section on spindle bearing adjustment in South Bend's "How to keep your lathe in trim".
> 
> 
> 
> ...





Technical Ted said:


> Here's a link to all four of South Bend's bulletins that can be helpful.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Great, thanks guys.

I ended up removing the bearing caps again and shaved a bit off one of the sides of the thinner shims that was in there. Think it might have been contacting the bearing cap or something. I had 0.01" of play initially. Now everything is good. 0.001" on the chuck side and roughly 0.001-0.0015" on the back side. Looks good to me.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Mar 3, 2021)

Rebuilding the QCG right now. Can anyone confirm that a 7205 bearing is a replacement for the ND 20205 bearing that is in there right now for the leadscrew? Then there is also the thrust bearing that runs on the shaft itself (4ZZR4?). Anyone have any numbers for those?


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## Sugarkryptonite (Mar 7, 2021)

QCG pretty much complete


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## 682bear (Mar 7, 2021)

Looking good!

-Bear


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## Sugarkryptonite (Mar 7, 2021)

682bear said:


> Looking good!
> 
> -Bear



Thanks!


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## Superburban (Mar 7, 2021)

Looking darn good.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Mar 18, 2021)

Freshly painted parts for the apron & saddle.

Has anyone seen this on the saddle ways before? Seems like it's ground down in the middle but looks like it's factory? Can anyone confirm? Only in the middle of the saddle ways. Are they suppose to be smooth the whole way across? It slides fine on the ways of the bed but seems strange.


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## Nogoingback (Mar 18, 2021)

Beautiful work on your lathe!


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## Janderso (Mar 18, 2021)

Yes,
Beautiful restoration


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## Sugarkryptonite (Mar 27, 2021)

Mostly put back together. Got the apron and saddle back on. Just need to do the control box, make a mount for the SM Vector drive, some wiring, then also glue the belt on. I found a serpentine belt from a semi that is the perfect size that I was able to get for free that I will try out.


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## Sugarkryptonite (Mar 28, 2021)

Well...crossing my fingers it holds!


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## Sugarkryptonite (Apr 21, 2021)

Been working on finishing up the wiring and belt. Old belt didn't work out...went to tension it and it was way too tight, had to cut it off...must have measured wrong...With the new belt I wrapped it around the pulleys and marked it as tight as I could pull it, put it together like that...hoping it will be good.


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## 38super (Apr 23, 2021)

Mark the spindle pulley circumference where the dog drive engages.


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