# Chandox 3DAKT-06 3 jaw "adjust true" chuck



## Dpaul7 (Apr 12, 2020)

Anyone have information or advice as to how to adjust this chuck? I was under the impression that the Allen head screws on the front are to be loosened, then the small set screws around the perimeter would be used to fine tune everything. However, I cannot budge the large Allen head screws whatsoever. They are really torqued down hard!


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## BGHansen (Apr 12, 2020)

I have a similar set-tru and you understand it correctly. You'll have to break the three cap screws on the face of the chuck loose, then adjust with the 4 outside cap screws and retighten the three screws on the face. Basically adjust it in like a 4-jaw chuck.

Bruce


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## Dpaul7 (Apr 12, 2020)

Bruce, Thanks for the reply. I have flexed my 8mm T handle Allen wrench to the point where it rotates the spindle even while in the lowest gear. I have tried giving the wrench a few shocks but still no luck. I have a PM1340GT. Any suggestions as to how to break them free without damaging anything, how to hold the chuck from moving etc.?
David


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## Dpaul7 (Apr 12, 2020)

I have tried putting a block of wood between the jaws and the ways to prevent the chuck from turning while putting a tremendous force on the Allen wrench. No results.


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## Dpaul7 (Apr 12, 2020)

I have tried putting a block of wood between the jaws and the ways to prevent the chuck from turning while putting a tremendous force on the Allen wrench. No results.


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## Janderso (Apr 12, 2020)

Maybe a more rigid set up. What I mean is using the standard L shape Allen wrench then wack it with a dead blow.
In my experience you really need to crack them loose. I think the type of Allen you are using allows too much flex.
Just my two cents.
Good luck.


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## matthewsx (Apr 12, 2020)

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And a breaker bar. 

Also you can clamp an aluminum bar sideways in the chuck to hold against.

John


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## parshal (Apr 12, 2020)

I used an impact wrench to loosen the three on the front the first time.  You dont need to loosen those each time you adjust the chuck, though.


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## mikey (Apr 12, 2020)

parshal said:


> I used an impact wrench to loosen the three on the front the first time.  You dont need to loosen those each time you adjust the chuck, though.



Are you sure about this? How do you adjust the set-tru screws if the chuck is tight to the back plate?

I agree with the impact gun, though, and that is how I would approach it.


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## Dpaul7 (Apr 13, 2020)

I am going to give the impact wrench a try. I just wanted to check first with those who have had experience, not wanting to risk any damage to either the chuck or the lathe. Thanks for all the input!


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## parshal (Apr 13, 2020)

It does not take much to move the chuck with the side screws even when pretty darned tight.  You can see this with the a dial indicator when you move one of the screws.  I don't have the front screws tightened down with an impact wrench.  I think I have them at 40-60 ft. lbs.  I'd completely forget the the number.


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## Dpaul7 (Apr 15, 2020)

Regarding my new Chandox chuck.
I was successful in breaking the hex screws loose with an impact wrench. However, the four adjusting hex screws around the perimeter will not budge whatsoever. I have loosened each one and applied a good deal of force with a solid hex wrench to each one independently in turn. No movement on the dial indicator in any direction. The chuck is still out about 0.0055". Any suggestions? I don't want to break anything.


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## parshal (Apr 15, 2020)

I took the chuck apart and removed .005-.010" from the backplate.  That gave me a lot more movement in adjusting the chuck.  If I remember correctly, mine didn't move at all, just like yours.

You don't need to tighten those side adjusting bolts too much.  I did that and recently took the chuck apart only to find the backing plate had cracked sections where the side bolts are.


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## Bamban (Apr 15, 2020)

I would take the chuck apart and do a clean up. Measure the clearance for the chuck to move, follow Shars recommended clearances. 

zero-set-manual-pages


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When you try to dial a test bar, I would keep the 4 screws loose and just tap the front section of the chuck to get minimal runout, then adjust the 4 screws for final minimal runout


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## Dpaul7 (Apr 15, 2020)

How do you take it apart? Do you remove the bolts on the back first?


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## Bamban (Apr 15, 2020)

Dpaul7 said:


> How do you take it apart? Do you remove the bolts on the back first?



Loosen the adjusters, remove the clamp bolts, the chuck pulls out from the backplate


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## Bamban (Apr 15, 2020)

Unsolicited input. 

When I got these 6Js, the first I did was replaced the set screw adjusters with flange bolts. Life is a lot easier compared to messing with Allen wrenches. 










Safety police might have a cow with the flange bolt heads sticking out. The sharp corners of the jaws stick out further when I chuck up even a 1 inch OD  turned barrel. Secondly, never reach in to any rotating mass.


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## mikey (Apr 15, 2020)

You want the full range of movement the adjusters will allow. Remove the chuck from the back plate as Bamban said, then measure the travel on each of the adjusters. Basically, just retract the pin fully and then extend it fully and measure that travel. That gives you the range of each pin. Then turn the snout of the backplate down to allow for that much clearance.

For example, say each adjuster allows for 0.040" of range. The snout OD should at least 0.020" smaller than the ID of the cavity in which the snout resides. That allows the snout that full range of travel. Ideally, the bolts that hold the chuck to the back plate will also allow that much travel.

If you have a tap and die for the adjusters, clean the threads for the screws.


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## Dpaul7 (Apr 16, 2020)

So, before I begin, what are these 3 large hex head bolts for on the back of the chuck/back plate?


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## mikey (Apr 16, 2020)

Looks like a D1-4 backplate. I've never seen a D1-4 chuck with bolts like that. Why not take the plate off and tell us?


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## Dpaul7 (Apr 28, 2020)

Ok. after some deliberation. I used an impact wrench to loosen all the bolts front and back. Removed the back plate and decided that I had to take a skim cut and take about 0.003" off the register diameter as well. I now have the chuck running pretty well within tolerance. Thanks for all the input!! I am a bit new to this.


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