# Yet another Rockwell/Delta metal/wood bandsaw restore



## Grandpop (Jul 15, 2020)

I have asked some questions during my recent rebuild (thanks Rich for your help), and am now almost finished the effort. Posting my rebuild of a 28-300 / 28-380 / 28-390 bandsaw. Different documents show the enclosed base version of the 28-300 basic saw as 28-380 and 28-390, so not sure which one it is. Saw is marked 28-300, but that is without a base. Maybe someone on here will understand the difference in model numbers?

I bought this gal back in May at a local on-line only auction for $60. The only description said something like “never been under power – no info”, with 3 poor quality photos. Could see the metal cutting gear reduction shaft was there (no pulley) so knew it was the metal/wood version, and could see the upper blade guide was MIA. As I had just finished a major rust repair to the deck of the Gravely and was extremely tired of cutting 1/8 sheet metal with jig saw and grinding discs, I decided to take a chance on it.

Here she is before I unloaded it in the driveway. Let’s just say she was rode hard and put away wet frequently. PO must not have been very mechanical, as could see lots of things jerry rigged and or messed up after scraping away worst of the crud. 







Hate this tension adjusting knob in center of rear door, my fat fingers make it hard to turn there. Will raise it up above the door during the rebuild.





At first exam, this 1974 model 28-380 was missing the upper blade guide and guard, both 4 step pulleys were missing, the blade tension adjuster rod and nut were both stripped, the high/low speed clutch was frozen, the motor was 3450 rpm and not working (hums), missing lots of little things and hadn't even gotten into it yet. Checking some prices for used parts on the web and this $60 purchase was starting to look like it needed $700 in parts, which is what a decent one sells for locally. Basically made it look like a parts machine! After receiving some coaching on here, including lots of VERY helpful information locating manuals and p/l, I decided to try to resurrect it, as at least I would know exactly what I had when I was done (and I can't go anywhere anyway, so needed something to do).

Spent better part of last 8-10 weeks researching, tearing down, cleaning, and figuring out how it was supposed to work. Then buying LOTS of parts, repairing everything, all new bearings/seals, filing the burrs off of every casting and sharp edge, making a fair amount of missing/buggered up parts, painting (even tried to match the original 2 tone paint job) and reassembling it. A new HF 1800 rpm 1 hp motor, new switch and wiring, some more head scratching, and she is now proudly back among the living.

First the tear down. It only takes about an hour or two to turn the bandsaw into piles up rubble.













Started with the simple repairs while waiting for all the ordered parts. The upper wheel mounts to this stud, and it pivots on a shaft in the hole to allow for blade track adjustment. The housing hole was .021 looser than the pin, so after a bit of head scratching, decided to cheap out and make this .010 shim. Was able to get the pin back in pretty snug. First upgrade finished.









First batch of cleaned and straightened dark machine gray painted parts, then the stone gray upper/lower doors (closest to garage door, can barely see the 2nd upper door sideways behind first one).









One of next things fixed was the stripped tension rod and nut. I did not like turning this knob in back in middle of the door, so bought a 3/8-16 x 13” long McMaster grade 8 bolt to raise it above the upper door like the newer models. Set the bolt up in the lathe, made the threading undercut, picked up the old threads, then cut the new ones to 4.5 inches long. Turned it around and turned the hex head off so old knob could be pinned onto new bolt.










Put it back together with the old knob on new longer bolt above the upper door. Was way better than before, but still took too many turns to go from loose to tight (8 turns?).









Decided to take the knob off and made a handle for it from piece of 1/2 x 1 x 5 scrap, a rusty shoulder screw, and then made a new rotating handle for it out of UHMW. Could have bought a $67 plastic handle from McMaster, but no fun in that. Much nicer now! Takes a few seconds to adjust, not minutes.










Hard to see, but the end of the old tension screw just pushed right against the casting. I drilled a 1/4 hole, then turned a 1/2 ID bowl shaped holder for a pair of $5 Amazon flat thrust bearings. Now the end of the screw pushes against the trust bearing, so the tension handle turns very easy, even under load.






One can buy the standard $30 Danly yellow die spring to replace the crushed worn out original spring, or buy the $18 ebay one, or can buy the $9 green Raymond equivalent on McMaster. This was the gold one I ried first, but have the green one in there and works better. No picture of it, but I made a new nut out of )1 tool steel that was 1/2" thick. Heat treated it and installed it. Another good upgrade.


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## Grandpop (Jul 15, 2020)

part 2

I was still waiting on last few things (v-belts, metal blades and 2nd attempt at stronger tension spring), so I turned to the missing sheet metal parts/covers. It had the upper guard for the rear pulley attached but was missing the lift off door, was missing the lower rear door entirely (but has the latch inside the cabinet), was missing whatever the cord keeper was supposed to be, and was missing the upper front blade guard.

I could find very little information about the base cabinet parts (did find the p/l) or photos of them to try to copy, but I did find these 2 photos below that show the 2 missing doors. So these were the basis of the parts I made to replace them.










The red arrow is what the p/l calls the “Stop Strip”, and inside the cabinet attached to the 2 red screws in 2nd photo are the “latches.” I am guessing that the stop is a rubber strip, and the catch is some kind of c or h cross section hook that holds the door open at the angle shown, then you just lift the door off? So that’s what I tried to do. Above photo (right) looks like there is supposed to be some king of foam/rubber edging on there, maybe to stop vibration? So that is the way I made mine, just used a piece of 1/8 rubber.

The green arrow (above photo) cord keeper is another mystery. This is the only photo I have found anywhere that even has something in the hole, all of the others are just blank holes! Unlike the above photo, my saw has a screw hole each side of the opening, so thinking it may have been a wood block? So that is what I made, a 2 piece block; large piece has the hole and slot for the cord, then smaller T shaped piece to clamp the cord at bottom of slot. The block assembly then screws to inside of the cabinet. Didn’t get a picture of it prior to installation.

I made the upper pulley door cover, half hinges and door mounted striker. Mig welded the 2 little hinge halves to the door. Was a struggle bending the .075 sheet that I had for that 11” high door, but after beating and filing came out good enough for me. The hinged door hanging in center, the lower door on the right, then new brackets hanging on chain in center, the old shield and electrical cover on left.









The table has a slot to get the blade in/out, and then uses a tapered pin to hold the ends of the table into alignment. I took a 3/8 bolt and turned the matching taper onto it; that missing part solved. Also took a piece of 3/16 thick scrap plate and turned a new steel center hole blade guide/filler. Those 2 items were $50 if I had bought them, and instead only took maybe 3 hours to make.











Made a couple of 5/16-24 x 2” long set screws by threading fine thread grade 5 bolts all the way to the head, cutting the head off, then cutting a screwdriver slot where the old bolt head was. The shiny one is new, and other new one is under the table for the table rotate stop. Also made these 2 missing knurled blade guide fine adjuster knobs; they move the blade guide bearings forward/back.










Made this lower blade guide assembly (part with the 2 small bearings). These guide assemblies are available for $80 bucks online, and bought one, but it didn't fit, so copied it (sort of). 10 bearings were only $8 on Amazon. Took me 4 hours to make the T shaped base (welded), the 2 eccentric cams for the bearing mounts, and a screw to tighten the back side of the cams so they won’t move when rotated against the blade.











I was able to find lots of photos of the missing upper blade guard, and can buy an aftermarket one as well; it attaches to these 2 screws. I will be starting on that one next. Think I am going to have to buy some more .060 sheet stock first to make the bends easier than the .075 was! The guard has to come off every time you change the blade, so thinking I want some kind of threaded knurled knob instead of the factory screws. That way I don’t need any tools to change the blade.

Made this little chunk of scrap steel that tightens onto the top of blade guide vertical height adjuster. Good base for the cheap $10 reading light from Amazon, and it puts out enough light. Will have to see how well it holds up to vibration.






Last thing made before final assembly: 2 steel 1-1/2 diameter knobs for the back doors. I do not have a ball attachment, so did some simple trig to determine touch and go dimensions for the 45, 22.5, and 11.25° angle set-ups I made each side. Filed to suit when done and polished with 2120 Emory paper. The end of the ball is finished by screwing onto the tap, locking in place with a nut, and chucking on the tap. Easy to put the 11.25 angle on and blend it in.

Here she is today. Four new large black door knobs from McMaster. Love the paddle stop switch!














The way this high/low works, the knob at end of large pulley slides an inner shaft that is pinned to 2 clutch halves in/out on the main shaft. With the knob pushed in, the inner clutch half engages the gear reduction unit (short belt from motor), so saw runs at metal cutting speeds. The large pulley is disengaged and free wheels. When the knob is pulled out, it disengages the gear reduction unit and outer clutch engages the large pulley (long belt) for wood cutting speed. No tools for blade speed change.






Last thing left to mess with are the 2 low speed stepped drive pulleys. Each was 4 step from factory. Original motor pulley is no longer made, and upper one is available but $187. I bought this pair from McMaster to get it up and running (about $70/pair), and while they are close to the factory diameters, the pulley diameters are not quite same as factory. Factory pulleys are set up so same belt length works/fits in each pulley step; can leave the high speed wood belt on, and just change the slow speed belt to get desired metal speed. With the McMaster pulleys slightly off, that means when you change to next step the belt length needs to be slightly different on each step. I think long term I am going to have to make a pair of new solid pulleys, custom sized to not only match belt length on every step, but to also account for both belts tightening at same time. I did buy new cog belts of correct length, but couldn’t get them both to tighten at same time. This is the old large (wrong) belt, with a HF snap-flex belt sized to suit. Working for now. Running at calculated 126 sfm for sheet metal and structural shapes, and at calculated 2831 sfm for wood.

Note the extra fittings I added to the oil fill plug. I now have another 1-1/2 inches of oil inside, 2 full quarts of full synthetic oil inside. Actually goes right up to gear reduction bearing.

First real job is to cut the metal for the blade guard! Then the steel for a new roll around stand, and then …


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## Janderso (Jul 16, 2020)

Grandpop said:


> the high/low speed clutch was frozen,


Looks like we are working on the same project. I don't have as much work to do but I paid a heck of a lot more than $60.
What was causing the low/high speed clutch to be jammed?
That and a start capacitor and a couple guide bearings are all I need, I think.


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## CluelessNewB (Jul 16, 2020)

Can you post the part number for the McMaster-Carr tension spring?  Thanks!


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## Grandpop (Jul 16, 2020)

My inner clutch roll pin was missing. Didn't even have the piece left in the inner shaft like it had sheared off, and no pieces inside when I drained the oil and cleaned it. The outer clutch was jammed against the wood pulley. They had a wood screw thru the access hole in the clutch, and it pushed a square nut lying in the main shaft slot against the inner shaft. Essentially pinned it into high speed. With the 3450 rpm motor and 2" motor pulley, they must have really been making some speed!

I had a bugger of a time getting it apart. They peened the outer edge of the inner shaft, so the shift knob would not come off after the set screw was removed. Never got it apart until after I got the entire shaft assembly out of the machine and could use the arbor press on it.

When I put it back together I used synthetic grease on all the sliding parts, with some of the synthetic gear oil on the inner shaft. Have to see how it holds up. Right now it shifts easy, but doesn't vibrate out of gear by itself.

Rich, this is the Raymond green spring I am using. Almost identical spring rate and force to the yellow Danly spring advertised everywhere.








						McMaster-Carr
					

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




					www.mcmaster.com
				




I also bought a 3" one, but the tension nut would come out of the adjuster housing and rotate before the tension was totally off, so was a hassle to start applying tension again.  Instead I added a 1/4 spacer above the spring for a little extra tension on the 2.5 spring. Working fine so far. The gold spring and the two green springs with shipping were less than the $29 one you see advertised everywhere.


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## CluelessNewB (Jul 17, 2020)

Grandpop said:


> Rich, this is the Raymond green spring I am using. Almost identical spring rate



Thanks!


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## Grandpop (Jul 19, 2020)

Finished up the blade guard today. Didn't particularly care for the Delta style guard, as the inside is completely open. I do hope to have my grandson helping me on projects by using this saw, so wanted something that would protect all around the blade.

Started with another cardboard template to get me close. After some searching, turns out I had just enough of .060 stock left for this. Cut the shape out using the saw with a 32 tpi blade, drilled the mounting holes, sawed and filed the slots. Crushed the joggle in the HF20 ton press. Then set about the 2 long bends. Took a fair amount of beating over some 3/8 thick scrap, but came out decent.








I started the jopggle at .090, but the blade was slightly off center in my channel. Went back with previous set-up plus some .030 shims and crushed the joggle again. This time the blade is in the center. The bends are centered between the rear wheel cover lip and the door mounting studs, so right about where everything needs to be.






The back side at bottom is relieved to clear the blade back-up bearing. Right now I should be able to get a 3/16 blade in without any trouble. Doubt I will ever go smaller than that for metal cutting. I have a 12" Craftsman for wood cutting, so would use that saw for real small blades.






Trying to get it to go all the way up involved some playing around. You need to match the shape of the wheel with an offset, so ended up with this.






This position allows for 6 1/4 inches under the guide, but saw guides could still go up another 3/8. I didn't want to cut the clearance any lower, as with the wheel cover on and guard all the way down, there would be a small 3/8 gap in the guard at bottom of wheel cover. Right now there is barely any gap at all with the guard all the way down.






So staying where I am. I figure IF I ever need to go any higher than 6 1/4, I will just have to take the guide off - won't make much difference as at that point the guard will just about be up inside the wheel cover. Here is where it is now with the 6 1/4






As I mentioned, that is a 1/4 blade. Typically when you buy the bearing guides you can't use anything smaller than a 3/8 blade. The back of the left guide bearing hits the front of the back-up bearing. When I copied the commercial product, I also used the same size guide bearings they did (22 x 8 x 7 mm, 608ZZ). To be able to use the guide with the 1/4 blade, I bought some 17 x 8 x 5 mm (688ZZ) bearings for cheap on Amazon. I had to put a washer behind them, but now the bearings are thin enough to clear the teeth of the 1/4 blade, yet still clears the back-up bearing. Here they are side by side.


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## Janderso (Jul 19, 2020)

Grandpop,
Thanks for posting,
It looks like I’m missing a safety cover for the upper pulleys.
My saw Is running. I ordered a new blade, some guide bearings and I still need the low speed belt.
But, I got the motor working.
I need to work on vibration issues too. I’m hoping the belt will help but the blade pulleys are out of balance.
What does one do about it?


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## Grandpop (Jul 20, 2020)

Janderso said:


> It looks like I’m missing a safety cover for the upper pulleys.
> My saw Is running. I ordered a new blade, some guide bearings and I still need the low speed belt.
> But, I got the motor working.



What did you do that got your motor running again? Like yours, the 3450 rpm motor that was on mine only hummed after I replaced the capacitor too.

I've seen the upper pulley covers on flea-bay, but only other choice is self-made.

My motor pulley with the sleeve does wiggle a little, but doesn't seem to impact the saw too much. My reduction pulley runs pretty good. I am not having much vibration in either speed range, but I am running a link belt for the short belt. I don't really like link belts, I prefer cog belts, but it was the only way I could get both belts tight at same time. 

After your comment in your thread about the large belt identified in the manual, I looked it up in the copy of the manual I am using, dated 1976. It did say p/n 49-173 V-Belt, 57-1/8" under the Accessories section, but does not list the short belt. I think that may be the length for wood saws only, and is therefore why it does not list the short belt. A 1979 manual lists the v-belt set as p/n 49-111, 58-5/8 & 41". A 1965 manual says the 49-173 is only for wood cutting saws, and the metal/wood saws use the 49-111 set. The Rockwell Product Catalog, dated 1972, says all wood/metal saws use 49-111 set on page 147, with wood only saws using 49-173. On page 187 of the catalog, it lists various v-belt numbers/lengths. It does list  58-29/32, 58-1/8, 41-1/8, and 41-1/2 as used on various equipment. My serial number said mine is a 1974, but I haven't actually found a manual dated 1974 to see what it says. But due to the above, it does look like p/n 49-111 is most likely what we need.


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## Janderso (Jul 20, 2020)

My saw has a 49-111 for the wood set up.
I‘ll take this information into my Napa today to see what these part numbers cross to in length.
Also, I’m going to measure around the pulleys to verify 41.

My saw motor, two things, the start capacitor was burnt, dripping, fried.
I replaced it with no success.
Then Ulma Doc and one other group member mentioned #8, where is number 8.
The motor was wired wrong. #8 was with 1-3-5.
Once I wired it right the motor is smooth and quiet.


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## Janderso (Jul 20, 2020)

Fremont Industrial has a set of 2 belts with part number 49-111 for the Delta band saw.
What he heck would we do with 2 belts of the same size?








						Delta Rockwell 49-111 5140051-35  set of 2 v-belts
					

Delta Rockwell 49-111 v belt




					www.fremontindustrialsupply.com


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## CluelessNewB (Jul 20, 2020)

Janderso said:


> Fremont Industrial has a set of 2 belts with part number 49-111 for the Delta band saw.
> What he heck would we do with 2 belts of the same size?
> 
> 
> ...



They are two different sizes according to the description, 41" & 59": 

_"Aftermarket replacement for Delta Rockwell 49-111 V-Belt. One each 1/2" wide, 41" outside length and one 1/2" x 59" outside length. Set of 2 belts Also known as part number 5140051-35" _


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## Janderso (Jul 20, 2020)

CluelessNewB said:


> They are two different sizes according to the description, 41" & 59":


That makes more sense. I didn't read obviously. Don't I feel silly.
I just bought a 41" FH belt at Napa. He crossed the CAT49-111 to 58 + inches. I think he said 58 7/8"
I'll see if the twins match as soon as I get a chance.
I should probably take the belt in and have them measure it and replace it too.
They only sell inch sizes, no fractional.


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## Janderso (Jul 22, 2020)

The 41" belt worked perfect. The two belts work in harmony with the same tension!!!!

As a side note, I'm replacing the upper wheel bearings, they are shot!
I watched a couple videos on how to do it plus I've done it before.
This time the bearings did not budge. I am trying to place a punch through one side and drive the opposite bearing out the back. It would not budge.
I borrowed a blind hole puller, solid as a rock. I assumed these bearings were original, they probably are, 50+ years stuck.
I got the idea of slowly applying some heat. I slowly heated up both sides of the hub and tried the punch again.
The bearing almost fell out!
If you find a stubborn bearing especially in aluminum, you don't need much heat. I got it to around 185 degrees F. (I have a laser thermometer)


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## CluelessNewB (Jul 22, 2020)

For future reference my saw has a cast iron base and a 56 frame motor.   With the motor adjusted all the way up I need a 42" belt for the metal side and a 60" belt for wood.  The metal belt is about right but the wood 60" wood blade is a bit loose, a 59" won't work.  It's not a big deal since I already have a wood only bandsaw. I will just keep the metal belt on it and leave the wood belt off, it will also be less wear on the wood pulley bearing.


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## Janderso (Jul 23, 2020)

CluelessNewB said:


> For future reference my saw has a cast iron base and a 56 frame motor.   With the motor adjusted all the way up I need a 42" belt for the metal side and a 60" belt for wood.  The metal belt is about right but the wood 60" wood blade is a bit loose, a 59" won't work.  It's not a big deal since I already have a wood only bandsaw. I will just keep the metal belt on it and leave the wood belt off, it will also be less wear on the wood pulley bearing.


The 41 and 59 seem to work in your scenario as well. Just an inch longer across the two belts.
Good information going forward.


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## Janderso (Aug 1, 2020)

Grandpop,
I installed new tires, belts, upper bearings, blade, changed the gear oil, thrust bearings, adjusted to a gnats ass.
It works well in the wood mode but the lower wheel is warped. The lower bearings sing in the metal mode more than in wood?
The lower bearings which I thought were ok are going to come out.
I’ve come this far, I may as well go the distance and replace the lower wheel with a cast iron replacement.
I thought I had a sweet saw. Turns out it needs a full overhaul.
Oh well, I’ll have a nice saw to last me the rest of my life.
My youngest son came over a while ago. I showed him how we can cut 1/2” wood in tight circles with the 1/4” blade.
He will use it. That makes me happy. In fact, we have some projects lined up.
Love it!


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## Grandpop (Aug 1, 2020)

No real lower wheel bearings, just the bearings each end of the wheel shaft. Mine did not feel bad, but for $50 while it was all apart I did replace them. I do not have any shake in the wheel now when pulling on it.

 Just went down and looked at mine now. My lower wheel runs true by eye at wood speed. I think if yours still runs out with new bearings I would bore the wheel center for a home made sleeve. Takes a bit of effort to get it all apart, but it is pretty simple stuff.

Loved the photo of your grand daughter the other day. I don't have any true children of my own, but do now have 2 grandsons (wife has 2 sons). Neither son is remotely interested in building fixing anything, no chance they would ever want any of my tools. I do have hopes that maybe one of the grandsons will take an interest if I can find projects to build with them while they are young. I found a T-Rex model on line, and want to print and transfer to some plywood to make a 2 foot long skeleton with the oldest.

Nice that your boy would at express an interest in using the saw. My dad had me running his machines when I was about 10. Still nice memories. We built a bookcase together when I was 11. While it isn't the fanciest, I still have it, and always will.


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## Janderso (Aug 1, 2020)

Grandpop,
I enjoyed reading your post.
I’m really looking forward to finishing this project. It will be nice to have a top shelf metal wood band saw.
I have an awesome new Jet horizontal band saw but you really need both.


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## robbonj69 (Dec 4, 2020)

Hello Everyone,   This forum has been a great source of info for restoring a 28-300.  Thank you in advance for all the shared knowledge.  Hopefully, someone can answer a specific question.  I bought one in fairly good condition. The only issue is they have a wooden block installed on the clutch locking the saw in high-speed mode.  The block was drilled to fit over the shaft between the knurled shifting knob and the large pulley, preventing the knob from being pushed into the metal mode.

I want to start using the saw for metal cutting, so I need to remove that block.  The knob won't budge.  I removed the set screw but can't get the knob off, which means I can't get the block off without breaking it. *I need to know if the knob is threaded on or if they just beat it on.  *

As a side thought, I'm really hoping they didn't install that block because one of the pins broke and it doesn't work in the metal mode, but we'll cross that bridge when we get there.

Thanks in advance for any information.


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## Grandpop (Dec 4, 2020)

if both pins, or one of the pins are broken, it won't drive in that speed at all, block or no block. That block was probably added due to it slipping out of high speed during a cut due to vibration, and stopped it from happening. If that block is just standard hem-fir type soft wood, I would just break it to get it out of the way (easy to glue it back together or remake if you want it later).

I also had a bit of difficulty getting the knurled knob off of mine while everything was still assembled. It is a nice tight slip fit with only the set screw holding it on. If folks have removed and installed the set screw in many positions, the set screw bumps on the shaft may be what is now holding the knob on tightly (they may have tapped it on with a hammer). I kept soaking it with my favorite lube, as pretty difficult to get from behind and try to tap it off. Yours with the block on may be worse for access. I eventually got mine off without any tools, but was a struggle. I was ready to try a 3 jaw puller when it finally came off. I almost think the PO used something like lock-tite on it (not necessary).

Before I put the knob back on, I filed the shaft smooth for a nice fit for the knob. I slid it in place without the set screw, marked the set screw location with a sharpie, removed the knob, then filed a small flat onto the shaft where the mark was. Hopefully, next time the knob needs to be removed it will come right off.

A lot of these saws seem to have the shaft with the knob vibrate back and forth during cutting so it jumps out of gear. I didn't have any trouble with that initially, but had not used it for more than 10-20 minutes at a pop in either range. I just finished building a lay flat (for storage) firepit for the wife out of 1/8 HRS plate (assembles with no tools in less than a minute). Between the 1/8 masonite prototype and the metal version, it required about 3 hours of bandsaw work with my 32 tooth blade. Mine did not slip out of high range, but it did slip out of low range 3-4 times. Sounds like the PO added the block to yours to try stop it from vibrating out of high range as they only cut wood with it.


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## robbonj69 (Dec 4, 2020)

Grandpop - I'm going to do exactly that - I'll split it along the grain and install two light screws so I can put it back together, to reuse it.  They obviously had it on for a reason.  The PO only did woodworking, so that makes sense they wouldn't need to deal with it slipping out of gear.

On a side note, your long, detailed response sounded exactly like the type of answers my Dad would give.  It used to drive me crazy when I was much younger when all I wanted was a "Yes/No or do this" quick answer.  Now I realize I wouldn't be able to do half the things I do if it wasn't for those long answers.  I really appreciate the detailed advice and the time you take to answer all these forum questions.  Thank you!


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## Janderso (Dec 4, 2020)

robbonj69,
I recently finished a complete restore on my 28-300. The PO had the knurled knob extended all the way out and had it locked down with the set screw??
I had a tough time moving the shaft in to low range as well. It was locked up in the wood mode.
I took it apart to find hardened wood dust and oil had locked up the shaft. Once I cleaned and deburred everything it slides smooth as silk.
There are plenty of videos out there.
I found this guys video to be very helpful especially for our metal/wood gear box and shaft assemblies.




Hope it helps.
Jeff


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## robbonj69 (Dec 4, 2020)

Jeff - Thank you for the video and info.  I think I'll cut out of work early today and monkey around with this.  

This forum has been great for information and help!

BTW, Jeff, I just saw your other post about your 28-300 rebuild.  Great job!


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## Janderso (Dec 4, 2020)

I should add, the slit ring that expands the felt washer applies pressure to the shaft and keeps dust and debris out of the sliding mechanism while allowing a lubrication source. I found when I tightened the 180 degree slitted ring, it applied pressure and caused friction to hopefully prevent the shaft from moving out of position during use. Reducing vibration by balancing your wheels, making sure everything is tight and adjusted should also help.
Just 2 more cents.


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## robbonj69 (Dec 4, 2020)

I appreciate the follow-up.  So I took the wood block off the shaft and was able to work the shift knob off.  It was just on there tight.  I didn't want to force if off, not knowing if it was threaded.  

With that off, I tried to push the shifter into the metal mode, but it won't budge.  Even tapping with an old leather mallet, it wouldn't disengage from the large pully lugs.  I tried wiggling, spinning, more tapping, threats, promises and a bit of colorful language, and it was a No-Go. 

Is that telling me there is pin sheared/sticking out inside? I think I saw a video or thread that described that, but I've been watching so many, I can't be sure.

Or could it be that slitted ring is tightened?  I didn't realize there was a slitted ring that could be tightened.  I'll have to look closer at that.

Thanks everyone!


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## robbonj69 (Dec 5, 2020)

Well, it took me most of the afternoon, playing around with it, but I got the selector shaft to work.  I think it was mostly just gummed up.  I also found the slit ring you mentioned, Jeff.  It was so full of crud, I didn't see the slits originally. 

I tried taking the outer clutch (love-joy) off, but could not get the roll pin out.  There was no hole on the opposite side of the pin, so I'm not sure how you all got them off. Scratch that question... I just watched all the videos I saved again and found where alaskabearhawk pointed out there are holes on the back that need to be aligned to drop the pins.

When I put it all back together, the shifter works smoothly, but... No power in metal mode.  When I engage it for metal cutting, the wheel turns slightly, but barely.  And even then, you can stop it with the slightest of pressure. 

I'm guessing I do have a sheared inside roll pin. 

The BIG question - can the main shaft be taken out and that inside pin replaced without removing the lower gear assembly?  This was 'supposed' to be a quick tune-up so I could cut some metal for a couple of Christmas gifts.  Murphy's Law Strikes Again.  I appreciate any insight.


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## robbonj69 (Dec 6, 2020)

Another Update... I just jumped in and pulled the lower gear assembly.  The video shared by Jeff, above was a big help. I recommend watching it a few times as you go through the processes. If you casually watch it once or twice, you'll miss some of the seemingly minor details that make a big difference.  

A few things I'd like to mention about my particular project...  
1. The oil took forever to drain.  It was fairly clean but thicker than honey.  I rotated the oil spout down and put a funnel under it.  Even with that, unless you tip the machine, it doesn't get enough oil out.  You'll have it coming out once you break the gasket seal.
2. As he mentions in that video, it takes some work to get the gear assembly out.  I used some soft metal wedges to gently pull it out.  Then I kept rocking it up/down, back and forth and then it just popped out.  
3. The hardest part for me was removing the main shaft.  It would go until the internal gear hit the inside back of the housing and then stop.  The guy in the video says he used a soft mallet to knock it out.  Saying it had to be beaten out was an understatement.  For whatever reason, mine seemed impossible to remove.  I broke two 2x4 blocks with a 2-pound hammer and it still wouldn't budge past the same point.  I was certain there was something loose that was getting caught. I finally just trusted his video when he said there was nothing inside to catch and it would just pop out with some force.  I ended up using a big 5" across, hard rubber mallet and gave it a hell of a whack.  That moved it 1/8 of an inch.  A few more and it came free.  
4. Don't forget to replace the keys when you put it back together.
5. Don't forget to replace the snap rings when you put it back together.
6. You get the point.  Realistically, I shouldn't have been doing it at midnight, but I was determined to get it back together.

Hopefully, these minor points will help the next guy trying to do this rebuild.


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## Grandpop (Dec 6, 2020)

Mine gear was stuck pretty tight on the main shift. I had it supported on 2x4s and was using a heavy dead blow, but only moved that same 1/8. Finally supported it with steel  tubing scraps, put a peice  of aluminum over the shaft, and had at it with a hand sledge hammer. That got it started in one hit.

So now that you got it apart, was the inner pin sheared?

My oil was very thick and would not all drain out either. Took a lot of time/rags to get it all out.


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## robbonj69 (Dec 13, 2020)

Thanks Grandpop!  I had to step away from it for a little bit, but finally got it all put back together and it is running like a champ!  It was the inner pin.  

As much as I hate to admit it, I think I was the one who put the nail in the coffin on it... When I was putting it back together the first time, before removing the gear assembly, I had a hard time getting the main shaft to seat fully.  So, like a total rookie, I use a block of wood and 'tapped' it in. Though only the first few hits were taps...  After pulling it all apart and having a better understanding of the mechanism, I realized I was tapping on the internal shifting bar, not the main shaft.  That put all the force of my not-so-gentle taps on the pins. 

Thankfully, I caught myself after replacing them.  I was able to put a round metal tube over the shifting shaft and drive it in with the force isolated on the main shaft.  

I got new blades in yesterday and was able to cut some 1.5" steel (nice and slow).  The saw works perfectly!  Thank you, everyone, for all your help and guidance.  Hopefully, the next guy reads this and avoids beating the pins to death putting it back together!


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## Grandpop (Dec 13, 2020)

Those factory roll pins were metric, so anybody that tried to install US fractional sized ones would have ended up beating them in. I found the metric ones on McMaster (i think maybe 4.3 mm?), but ended up drilling mine out for 3/16 roll pins. 

The drive keys on mine had small steps ground into them (think they were .003), so first time I assembled it I could not slide the inner shaft. Took me a bit to notice the steps in the keys. Reversed one key, and ground the second one a few thousandths more. Slides nice now.


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## robbonj69 (Dec 14, 2020)

Luckily, I had a box of metric pins from another project.  

The only issue I'm having is it wants to slip out of gear.  My <future> son in law has a a 3d printer. I'm going to have him print me a ring to slip on to lock it in one gear or the other. In the meantime, I went old school on it and wrapped a length of copper wire between the clutches.  Not pretty, but it worked great.


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## ohgeez (Jun 2, 2021)

I saw this at Sawblade dot com, but it didn't have any specs. Does anyone know about this company or the specs to the pulley?

P Trajan 128HDR-086



P Trajan 128HDR-086






_*Motor Pulley Aftermarket Trajan Part*_ 
Motor Pulley

                                                 Only $41.90                                      


Motor Pulley

Aftermarket Trajan Part

                                                       Only $41.90


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## Grandpop (Jun 2, 2021)

Ohgeez,
According to my records, the upper 4 step pulley (720) is same as p/n 41-724. Last year this was available for about $150-190 from a few suppliers.

The lower 4 step (718) is 41-714. I could not find it anywhere available last year.

I ended up buying these pulleys on McMaster (6213K56, 6213K56). They are not an exact match, but are pretty close. Your belt will need slight adjustment between the speeds. Was also some generic pulleys on amazon that looked to be about the same.

I can't find it right now, but the Rockwell/Delta Industrial Machinery catalog had the pulley dimensions/specs in it. Only place I ever saw the actual diameters listed.


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