# Clausing Vert Mill  Crank Ball and dial not moving in Unison



## razinman (Feb 5, 2017)

Good Morning to all,
               I have a Clausing vert Mill #8525(diff vs 8520 is quill size) which I bought many years ago. I decided
to dismantle, clean and paint it. I finished the entire lower section(have not worked on the head yet).
            In putting it back together I noticed the right ball crank handle turns smooth but the dial indicator does
  not turn with it? The housing(#386-006) on the left is different than the housing on the right(#386-011),
however the housing on the right is STAMPED with part #386-006 yet it differs from the housing on the
left??.When I switch the ball crank handle and the dial indictor to the left side the dial indicator turns with
the handle appropriately .
         The housing on the left side is motorized(which was replaced by a motor and no handle-the way I bought it).
         I'm thinking of switching the right side housing with the left side housing and vice versa.
         Does anyone have any thoughts on this(before I remove them)


    Thanks for your help............Raz


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## wa5cab (Feb 5, 2017)

All of the smaller lathes that I am familiar with have a dial locking thumb screw that allows you to position the cross slide or compound slide and then re-set the dial to zero (or some other number) as a repeatable starting point.  for some reason, the 8520/8525 parts manual doesn't show this on any of the four feed or lift dials.  Can anyone tell me why?


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## wlburton (Feb 5, 2017)

On my 8520 there is a knurled round nut between the ball handle and the dial which tightens the dial to the handle/shaft.  Is that nut missing, or is it just not tightening?

Bill


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## wa5cab (Feb 5, 2017)

On the lathes, that round nut (on some makes it is hex) plus the nut or special nut retaining the crank are used to set the feed screw end float.  On the mill, with two sets of all of the parts, I assumed that you would preset one end and then do the adjustment with the other end.  Is that not correct?  That would probably result in at least one of the dials being loose unless the bushing is badly worn.  Another difference that I see between the Clausing mill and the Clausing lathes is that the bushing (that the dial runs on) is locked to the feed screw by a set screw on the lathes but not as far as the parts drawing shows on the mill.


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## razinman (Feb 5, 2017)

wa5cab said:


> All of the smaller lathes that I am familiar with have a dial locking thumb screw that allows you to position the cross slide or compound slide and then re-set the dial to zero (or some other number) as a repeatable starting point.  for some reason, the 8520/8525 parts manual doesn't show this on any of the four feed or lift dials.  Can anyone tell me why?


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## razinman (Feb 5, 2017)

wa5cab said:


> All of the smaller lathes that I am familiar with have a dial locking thumb screw that allows you to position the cross slide or compound slide and then re-set the dial to zero (or some other number) as a repeatable starting point.  for some reason, the 8520/8525 parts manual doesn't show this on any of the four feed or lift dials.  Can anyone tell me why?


I don't know either 

  Raz


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## razinman (Feb 5, 2017)

wlburton said:


> On my 8520 there is a knurled round nut between the ball handle and the dial which tightens the dial to the handle/shaft.  Is that nut missing, or is it just not tightening?
> I do have this knurled round nut,  I've tightened it but still doesn't work in together
> 
> Thanks....Raz


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## razinman (Feb 5, 2017)

wlburton said:


> On my 8520 there is a knurled round nut between the ball handle and the dial which tightens the dial to the handle/shaft.  Is that nut missing, or is it just not tightening?
> 
> Bill





wa5cab said:


> On the lathes, that round nut (on some makes it is hex) plus the nut or special nut retaining the crank are used to set the feed screw end float.  On the mill, with two sets of all of the parts, I assumed that you would preset one end and then do the adjustment with the other end.  Is that not correct?  That would probably result in at least one of the dials being loose unless the bushing is badly worn.  Another difference that I see between the Clausing mill and the Clausing lathes is that the bushing (that the dial runs on) is locked to the feed screw by a set screw on the lathes but not as far as the parts drawing shows on the mill.


   Bill.....One side of my mill (left side) is motorized driven, the rt. side is the problem, perhaps I should try to drill out a hole for a set screw.

   Thanks........Raz


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## razinman (Feb 5, 2017)

Hi All,

                  After much work, the solution was simple,  the bearing on the right side was set too far in(towards the left). When I used a gear puller and moving the shaft with the bearing on the left  side it moved the bearing on the right side out(towards the right). now the dial moves in unisom with the crank handle.
                 In other words I had to fine tune the position of the bearings when I put them back in place.
               I hope this helps someone in the future if they encounter such a situation.


    Thanks for all your Help!........Raz


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## wa5cab (Feb 5, 2017)

If the dial turns freely with all of the nuts tightened, that should work.  But use a knurled thumb screw and be sure to put a lead pellet in the hole before the screw.  Else in time, the set screw will scar the bushing.


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## Terrywerm (Feb 5, 2017)

Gentlemen, the motorized power feed was an option that was available and replaced the standard parts on one end of the lead screw and table. The knurled nut being discussed is indeed intended to lock the micrometer feed dial to the lead screw and serves no purpose in setting any kind of end play. End play is set by installing shim washers of varying thickness between the leadscrew bearing (044-004) and the bushing (049-015) on the right end of the leadscrew. Those shims are shown on the exploded parts drawing.

There should be no need to drill a hole for a setscrew. It sounds like you might be missing a washer (932-043) that is supposed to be between the knurled lock nut (537-015) and the dial (233-002). If the washer is in place, then something else has been assembled incorrectly. Sadly, I do not have a drawing of the parts that are included with the power feed.

Another thing that might be wrong is that for some reason the belcrank is not clamping the bushing to the leadscrew like it should. Check for burrs on the woodruff key, the leadscrew itself, and the ID of the belcrank. I doubt that this is the case however, as you indicated that you are able to tighten the dial locking nut. If the bushing were loose, the nut would not tighten up as it should. So, based on what you've told us thus far, I am leaning in the direction of a missing washer between the dial and the locking nut, but there is no guarantee that this is a correct identification of the problem.

You can download the instructions and parts diagram for the 8520/8525 from our Downloads area. To save you from searching for it, you can click on this link: *Clausing 8520/8525 Manual*


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## Terrywerm (Feb 5, 2017)

razinman said:


> Hi All,
> 
> After much work, the solution was simple,  the bearing on the right side was set too far in(towards the left). When I used a gear puller and moving the shaft with the bearing on the left  side it moved the bearing on the right side out(towards the right). now the dial moves in unisom with the crank handle.
> In other words I had to fine tune the position of the bearings when I put them back in place.
> ...



The bearing on the right end of the table normally seats against a shoulder on the leadscrew, then excess endplay is taken up with the shim washers that I mentioned in my previous post. I expect that your problem will reappear in time as the bearing reseats.

EDIT:  Threads merged  - Thanks Robert!


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## razinman (Feb 9, 2017)

Hi Terry,

                 There is a washer there, however when I pushed the bearing on the left side a little further to the right side the crank handle moves
with the dial indicator. It now must be in contact with the dial and the crank handle.
           Sorry , I couldn't get back to you sooner but I was very busy at work, and did not have time to read my e-mails.

      Regards.........Raz


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