# How To Clamp??



## Scruffy (Jun 12, 2015)

What's the best way to clamp a 12 by 12 --- 2 inches thick to the. Milling table so I can run a fly cutter over it.
   I really don't want to have to move clamps.   
Thanks ron


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## JimDawson (Jun 12, 2015)

If you can have a couple of holes in it, you can bolt it to the table using flat head cap screws.  Just countersink them a little deep so the heads are below the final surface.

If that's not acceptable, then make a ''vice'' with heavy angle iron.  Drill & tap two 3/8 holes in the upright leg of the angle iron, at a slight angle downward.  With the angle iron bolted to the table, the screws will press down on the plate as they are tightened.  Long set screws would work well for this.


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## brino (Jun 12, 2015)

JimDawson said:


> If that's not acceptable, then make a ''vice'' with heavy angle iron. Drill & tap two 3/8 holes in the upright leg of the angle iron, at a slight angle downward. With the angle iron bolted to the table, the screws will press down on the plate as they are tightened. Long set screws would work well for this.



simple, elegant and inexpensive Jim, great idea!
-brino


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## RJSakowski (Jun 12, 2015)

Mitee Bite,  http://www.miteebite.com/ offers a variety of edge clamp solutions


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## Paul in OKC (Jun 12, 2015)

If you have a 6" vise you can move the jaw from the move-able side to the back of it. Some vises will open far enough to hold that size piece with the jaws this way. I have done it several times. Otherwise the angle iron idea above should do you well.


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## kd4gij (Jun 12, 2015)

What he said. If you have a kurt style vise. Bouth jaws can be moumted on the back side. If yours don't stick up high enough to clamp over the moveble and fix jaws just make a set tall enough.


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## Silverbullet (Jun 12, 2015)

Years ago I manufactured pointed toe clamps for a open sideed planer . They just were pushed in the holes of the table and the pointed Allen bolts pushed into and downward at the same time . Four clamps would hold giant bearing blocks from us steal in Pennsylvania . I used tool steal and 3/4" 16 Allen bolts that I pointed in my lathe. They act like the mittee bite clamps only stronger.  The dimensions were 2" square by 5" long turned round to fit table on one end 2" long then the block was drilled and tapped on a 60 degree angle downwards toward the turned end. They worked great at holding items to slab out . We could cut two directions with that planer at the same time . Don't even see or hear of those anymore.


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## Reeltor (Jun 13, 2015)

The idea using pointed bolts is GREAT!  I'm going to put these ideas to use.
I have run into clamping issues when using the mill in it's horizontal mode, trying to use standard mill clamps.  Just not enough clearance between the top nut on the clamp and the arbor.

Can someone post a photo of moving the movable vise jaw to the back of the vise?  I don't see what you mean


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## awander (Jun 13, 2015)

I don;t have a photo, but-you take the jaw off, and move it to the opposite side of the thing it was bolted to, then re-bolt it on.

EDIT: look at the bottom right of p 562:

http://mdmetric.com/prod/meda/medatoolsupply/595_chapter-pages.pdf


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## Bill C. (Jun 13, 2015)

I was going to say years ago they made separate fixed and moveable vise jaws that were bolted to the table then the moveable jaw could be tightened against the workpiece.  I suspect they would tend to slip if not bolted tight enough.  

I like the pointed set screw style clamp.  Let us know how your project comes out.


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## Reeltor (Jun 14, 2015)

I've seen this typ


Bill C. said:


> I was going to say years ago they made separate fixed and moveable vise jaws that were bolted to the table then the moveable jaw could be tightened against the workpiece.  I suspect they would tend to slip if not bolted tight enough.
> 
> I like the pointed set screw style clamp.  Let us know how your project comes out.



I've not seen it in person but photos of the jaws bolted directly to the table, not on a mill but on shapers.  Massive pieces of steel bolted to the table as the fixed jaw.


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## Reeltor (Jun 14, 2015)

awander said:


> I don;t have a photo, but-you take the jaw off, and move it to the opposite side of the thing it was bolted to, then re-bolt it on.
> 
> EDIT: look at the bottom right of p 562:
> 
> http://mdmetric.com/prod/meda/medatoolsupply/595_chapter-pages.pdf


Thanks for the attachment.  Now I see what your talking about.  My ancient palmgren vise doesn't have a nice machined surface on the back or the threaded holes to take the jaw.  I wonder if it's time to look for a "real" vise?


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## Bill C. (Jun 15, 2015)

Reeltor said:


> I've seen this typ
> 
> 
> I've not seen it in person but photos of the jaws bolted directly to the table, not on a mill but on shapers.  Massive pieces of steel bolted to the table as the fixed jaw.




I saw a photo too.  They could only work with squared stock.  The gentleman didn't say if the block of steel was a burnout or sawed. 

I had made fixtures for myself from HRS or the butt end of bar stock. 

They make pointed set screws, not sure if they are case hardened or not.  I think if they were would definitely stand the pressure needed to secure the part.

Kind of like to see his final setup.


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## Tony Wells (Jun 15, 2015)

Looking for something like this?




Used on VBM and vertical lathes


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## Reeltor (Jun 15, 2015)

Tony Wells said:


> Looking for something like this?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



What is this type of clamp called?  Looks like a few would be very handy to have.


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## Tony Wells (Jun 15, 2015)

Those particular ones are Lenzkes brand, but generically they are just "milling clamps". Here's a cat listing on a variation. I have used this style many times and find them quite handy. Even on a horizontal with a faceplate. Did some boring in some 4" A36 on a fair sized lathe once. Never moved.

http://www.balajiclampingdevices.com/downholdmillingclamp.html


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## Reeltor (Jun 16, 2015)

Thank you for the info on the clamps; I did a quick look and found that they are way too many $$'s for me.  The home made one with pointed set screws will do the job


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## Bill C. (Jun 17, 2015)

That is usually the biggest problem ( the Budget).  If it was a everyday tool then it would be worth the money.   If it is going to sit on the shelf after a few uses then make a pair.

Whatever you decide to make or use I (we) hope all goes well.  Please post a few photos of your finished tooling and project.


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## Mark in Indiana (Jun 17, 2015)

IMO: If I had the same issue, I would just fly cut half of the workpiece at a time.


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