# Atlas 10F 54 not all present and wear



## recycler (Nov 1, 2014)

Hi
Im in Scotland, and have had a small myford for a few years, this atlas came up and i grabbed it, i was told it was all there but there were some parts missing, it has stood idle for nearly a year and im getting round to sorting it

It was obviously used as a wood lathe for some time as it came with a diy chisel rest and wood centres

the fwd/rev box was broken and i have nearly completed the repair of that, have also made the clamps and handle for the tailstock ram which were missing, there were no leadscrew halfnuts and there are some gears missing too

After some cleanup i have found wear on the ways showing 3thou on front way and same on rear, worst near the chuck, is there any way to repair this

At the moment im considering repairing as well as meybe stripping or passing it on, it is a nice machine 

the lead screw has no visible wear, the remainder of the machine looks in fair condition, im not liking the green paint either, i am finding it near impossible to find any gears for it 

here are some pics
trev


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## wa5cab (Nov 1, 2014)

I tend to agree about the green paint.  But I think I recall that Acorn used that colour.  

How significant the 0.003" bed wear is depends upon what diameter and length of parts you will typically work on.  And how much wear there is on the back of the rear way.  Assuming for the moment that there is no wear on the back of the rear way, if the part is say 1" diameter, mounted between centers, and long enough that the tailstock is sitting on the essentially unworn part of the bed, the diameter error from tailstock end to headstock end will be less than 0.0001".  If the part is 1.4" diameter, then it will be less than 0.001".  

If the part is short enough so that you don't use the tailstock and the carriage is essentially always in the 0.003" wear zone, the error is essentially zero.  What you need to do is measure the wear on the back of the rear way.  If the part is long enough to bridge the worn area, the wear there translates to twice that amount on the diameter.

To answer your direct question, you can scrape the bed back to flat and straight.  But that will take probably many tens of hours.  Or you can have the bed reground, which at least on this side of the pond would be pretty expensive.

Robert D.


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## recycler (Nov 2, 2014)

thanks, i had to read that a few times for it to sink in, so essentially i can live with that for the time being, this will probably now be a restoration thread as today
i put the machine together and spun the motor up, it was surprisingly quiet, albeit there were many bits not fitted im sure that's the first it has spun in a long time.
Trev


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## wa5cab (Nov 2, 2014)

Trev,

For a little more detail on the effect of bed top wear and tailstock height error, go to the Atlas/Craftsman folder in Downloads.  Bore down to Lathes and then to Maintenance.  Download and read Tailstock Height and Bed Wear Errors.pdf which I wrote after a lengthy thread (and a little disinformation) in one of the Yahoo Groups.  And don't forget that the figures given apply ONLY to height errors.  As I wrote earlier, front to back errors are direct.  

Robert D.


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## recycler (May 13, 2015)

hi again,
its been a while and i will get round to putting some pics up when i find them, in between last post and now, the lathe has been stripped cleaned painted and put together, there was a gear missing which i ended up making by broaching on my broken myford lathe, not perfect but does the job for now.

ive done  some cuts and theres much adjustment to be made as its just been but together, i have a question here it is

how does the quadrant for the gear train stay in situ, i cannot find anything which stops it flopping to the bottom? it is currently held in position by a scrap piece of thin wire
thanks
also, the babbit is on its way, no shims were present when bought, the front is ok without shim but poor in condition , the rear is needing a shim, i shall cut a coke can and see if that suits it
and another, am i right that all of the load from the apron is taken up by the leadscrew end bearing and not the fwd/rev box 
thanks


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## pdentrem (May 13, 2015)

On mine, there was a stud fitted that you tightened the nut to lock in the quadrant. An exploded diagram will show this for you. Someone will have to post a picture of the set up as I sold the Atlas awhile back.
Pierre


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## wa5cab (May 14, 2015)

I don't have a 10" to look at, and in fact, never have had.  But the 10F Parts Manual which you probably should have downloaded at the start   The drawing of the change gear parts shows an arced slot near the right edge of the Change Gear Bracket (AKA Quadrant).  It also shows a stud (but it is drawn as a hex head cap screw (bolt), a flat washer, and two jam nuts.  Look through the slot for a hole that the bolt might fit through.  Later models have a T-handle nut and an actual stud for it to screw onto.


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## recycler (May 14, 2015)

thanks, will get it sorted and get some pics up


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## recycler (May 18, 2015)

well, thats it now pretty much complete, i have made a jam nut to secure the gears, done some cutting, it is still needing a retaining nut for the tail stock ram, the one that sits in the lower groove, then will adjust it and find something to create with it, enough here are some of the pics so far
everybody loves photo's








and a box of parts, the gear which was missing and made is here




in primer here














thats it for now
what would be the best way to unscrew the chuck as i feel it has been many years since last removed


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## T Bredehoft (May 18, 2015)

Start unclamping the chuck by putting a two inch (50 mm) bar in it and putting the gear train in the lowest gear (slowest) you can.  Put a pipe wrench on the 2 in bar so that the handle is toward you and it is over the top of the bar. Hit the handle of the pipe wrench with a soft hammer.  Really, this is better than putting the chuck wrench in the chuck and hitting it with the hammer.


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## recycler (May 18, 2015)

Thanks will give it a go


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