# My Bridgeport refresh



## 8mpg (Sep 11, 2018)

Well I decided to refresh the mill. Not going to be a rebuild per say. There are some broken things, its rusty, its worn but it should be a decent machine for a hobby. I bought this mill from a guy in Carrollton who was moving. Paid $300 for it. Im completely new to machining. This is a 1966 Bridgeport 1HP Series 1 mill.

Anyways, after lots of research, videos, etc... I took the plunge. Im not going to open the head as I checked the spindle runout was less than .001" in my indicator. I dont have a tenths indicator. The backlash on the x axis was something like .022", y was .027". There was quite a bit of play in the table with the y axis gib bottomed out. Im going to try and shim it. Here are a few pics from the breakdown.





The entire quill downfeed system was trouble. The clutch lever is broken, the other lever to engage is was broken. The pins and thread stop is all stuck. I tore it all apart yesterday and put it back together for now. Looks like someone tried to fix it before. Ordered parts







Started cleaning up all the rusty table end holder things and the knobs, dials, etc. Just using a fine wire brush on the drill press:



The knee handle and left table end were the worst but cleaned up well. I may polish them





Mill table is going in a bath or vinegar to try and clean it up. I was thinking evaporust...but at $90/5 gallons and the box I built to soak it in is 15 gallons... Im going cheap:



The saddle will be next:




Dirty but very smooth: Im not going to mess with the mill knee.




And for the end of today... I decided to cut my nuts in half


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## markba633csi (Sep 11, 2018)

For 300$ that's a deal- not much territory between that and: FREE!
mark


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## Cadillac (Sep 11, 2018)

Nice job looks like you have a handle on things. Yeah your quill engagement looks like ?? How does that happen?? You’ll be impressed with the vinegar it’ll look good. To bad you didn’t use vinegar for the table end caps and crank. Nice purchase.


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## Janderso (Sep 11, 2018)

That is a free machine 
I have a worn out bp, 1971. it works great!
Nice score


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## petertha (Sep 12, 2018)

Nice score. 
Somewhat unrelated but I've seen a few pics like this. Why is it that these well established machines don't have some kind of simple cover plate to prevent the nasty bits from collecting in the gears? Is there a way to check & clean without somewhat significant table removal?


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## petertha (Sep 12, 2018)

Just out of interest, is this base contemplating the use of a pallet jack to move it arouns?


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## Janderso (Sep 12, 2018)

petertha said:


> Nice score.
> Somewhat unrelated but I've seen a few pics like this. Why is it that these well established machines don't have some kind of simple cover plate to prevent the nasty bits from collecting in the gears? Is there a way to check & clean without somewhat significant table removal?



I have wondered the same thing. I guess if you have a guard at the crack between the knee and base this would be mitigated.
On top of the exposed gear set, they are greased!


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## Cadillac (Sep 12, 2018)

When I went through Mine I had noticed the same thing. A lot of chips and stuff in the elevation gears. After cleaning and greasing I made a cover that sits on top of the crank lever rod casting. It’s the full width of the knee. Would have thought Bridgeport would have seen this happening. Recommended


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## 8mpg (Sep 12, 2018)

petertha said:


> Just out of interest, is this base contemplating the use of a pallet jack to move it arouns?



Yes. I have had it on a home made pallet since I got it because. My shop wasnt done building and it has had to move around the shop many times. Heck, I just moved it towards the welding table to have a table to slide the table off on to . It will probably stay on its pallet.

I may make a small cover. I dont know why there isnt one other than maybe they think the stock cover was enough?


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## 8mpg (Sep 12, 2018)

Few more pictures from todays work. Started stripping the machine of its paint. Wishing I didnt go down this path. Using Citristrip to get the majority of the paint off. Theres at least 5 layers of paint/primer












Im really liking the bare metal. Trying to research about just clear coating it.


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## BGHansen (Sep 18, 2018)

Nice job!  You'll love the machine once you're done.  I've got a 2 hp variable speed model from 1981, really nice machine.  Great deal at $300, plus you have the fine feed hand wheel which is missing 99.9% of the time.

Bruce


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## huckone (Sep 18, 2018)

Nice Job taking all that paint off.  It was the right decision.  If you like the metal look and want to clear it, one option might be "penetroll" made by flood.  It is both an oil base paint additive and a bare metal conditioner/protector/coating.  You'd have to research to see if it meets the needs of oil/chemical resistance.  I use it on metal art that i want to preserve the metal look and welding discoloration. It is really thin like mineral spirts and it brushes on really easily. btw, yesterday I came across this same mill (at least it looks to be the same), neighbor closing his business and selling it for similar price.  I might do it.


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## killswitch505 (Sep 18, 2018)

At first glance I thought that was bondo..... looking great so far man


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## 8mpg (Sep 25, 2018)

Figured I'd post some updated pics. Its coming along:

I went ahead and painted it Smoke Grey by Rustoleum. No bondo...just a bare casting. I love the look



Started a DRO install...will finish it tomorrow



I went for a brushed aluminum look on the belt cover and painted the logo background black. It will match some of the bolts and stuff that will be redone in black oxide......if the kit ever gets here



New zerks... ended up cleaning out a lot of grease from the machine on the knee...but none on the saddle...BECAUSE THERE WERE NO ZERKS!! Waiting on the push oiler to come from H&W



Fairly happy how the table cleaned up. It was fairly rusty. Vinegar and some Zep degreaser with maroon scotch brite.


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## TerryH (Sep 25, 2018)

Excellent work!


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## Bob Korves (Sep 25, 2018)

8mpg said:


> I went ahead and painted it Smoke Grey by Rustoleum.


A perfect choice, Smoke GrAy Rustoleum.  What machines are supposed to look like... 

Edit:  http://grammarist.com/spelling/gray-grey/


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## Kroll (Sep 29, 2018)

Dang at 300.00 cost you could spend another 1000.00 bucks on it and still be way ahead.What kind of DRO did you go with,that is on my Christmas list?


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## derf (Sep 29, 2018)

Glad you decided to paint it.....that Rat Rod motif only works for old cars.


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## 8mpg (Sep 29, 2018)

derf said:


> Glad you decided to paint it.....that Rat Rod motif only works for old cars.



Im glad I did too


Kroll said:


> Dang at 300.00 cost you could spend another 1000.00 bucks on it and still be way ahead.What kind of DRO did you go with,that is on my Christmas list?


The DRO was a cheap Chinese one off aliexpress.com  It was recommended here on the board. I got this kit:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-a...283.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.5fcc4c4dNQBD3O

It seems to be very accurate compared to using the dials on the cranks. You just tell them what size scales you need. You can do up to 3 550mm scales.


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## Janderso (Oct 5, 2018)

Hey, your table looks like mine, lots of character!


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## dmittz (Oct 10, 2018)

Your Mill looks great, you did a wonderful job with the refresh.


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## chrispyny (Nov 13, 2018)

Awesome refresh. I have a question for you. I very muxh like the idea of no bondo’d painting. I’m wrapping up a south bend 13” lathe restore, and once done i will be restoring my new to me bridgeport. I hate the idea of having to do body work on a bridgeport after stripping it. Do you have any close up pics of the j head after paint? Just wondering how bad the casting is and if i will as well enjoy the look of a non-bondo’d bridgeport. I hate body work and as long as there arent any unsightly voids in the casting, i’ll be following in your footsteps as well. Thanks for the close ups if you have any!


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## 8mpg (Nov 13, 2018)

chrispyny said:


> Awesome refresh. I have a question for you. I very muxh like the idea of no bondo’d painting. I’m wrapping up a south bend 13” lathe restore, and once done i will be restoring my new to me bridgeport. I hate the idea of having to do body work on a bridgeport after stripping it. Do you have any close up pics of the j head after paint? Just wondering how bad the casting is and if i will as well enjoy the look of a non-bondo’d bridgeport. I hate body work and as long as there arent any unsightly voids in the casting, i’ll be following in your footsteps as well. Thanks for the close ups if you have any!


I can get a close up picture of whatever you need. Do you want the side of the head or front? The casting for me was fine. No giant holes.


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## chrispyny (Nov 13, 2018)

What ever you have please. Front as you see it and sides would be awesome. Thanks!


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## 8mpg (Nov 14, 2018)

Hope these help. These are closer shots. The photos make them look worse than they are. Im very happy with the overall look with no bondo. If you dont want to mess with bondo, I'd just sand the paint and not sand the filler. I kinda regret going down to bare metal.


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## chrispyny (Nov 14, 2018)

Looks fine thanks. I think i will knock off the cracking bondonwith paint over it, lightly fill in the major voids, and paint. Thanks!


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## dmittz (Nov 14, 2018)

I recently took my wells-index 745 down to bare metal and then did the full filler and paint work.  It was a LOT of work.  However I think oil soak is a legitimate concern that could affect the longeveity of your new paint job if you just paint over old paint/ filler...  Unfortunatley stripping the old paint and filler is a BIG job and you will want protective equipment as the old paint may have lead in it.

If you really don't want to deal with filler, you could do about 4 coats of high build primer and sand before you paint the top coat.  That will cover most of the casting imprefections and only leave the large ones. Might be a good compromise.

Good luck with your Mill!


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