# New G0759 Owner - New Guy Questions



## bluepythons (Feb 11, 2016)

Hi Everyone,

First I want to say hello and thank you for all of the awesome content I have been reading.  I have read tons and tons of awesome info.  I just took delivery of a G0759, this is my second bench top machine as I just sold by Grizzly mini mill.  A friend and I were able to lift it on the bench, it is heavy but manageable.  That being said it was awkward and I felt like we almost dropped it at one point so my advice would be to have a third set of hands.  

Being this is my first machine with the R8 collet I have a couple of questions.

1.  How tight should the draw bar retainer cup be on the holding the draw bar.  I understand it holds it in place but is there a too loose or too tight issue?
2.  The draw bar sucks, the one on my mini mill was better as it had a larger hex head.  I know some have used a 9" bolt.  I searched every store and online hardware dealer and no one has that 9" bolt, fasten can't even order me one. So that brings...
3.  Does anyone have any plans or ideas to make a better drawbar with a hex head and some sort of bushing.  I don't have a lathe but a friend does and I could talk him in to help if we had a plan.  I'm new so simple would be awesome!  
4.  Anything else I should do before I start using it?  I know I have to clean all packing grease off and tram the column and head but any other advise would be very welcome.  

A different topic but new question, I bought a small collet rack from LMS and am wondering if I can mount that to the motor cover or if that would be a bad idea?  Ergonomically I would be nice for me but would it add weight to the add, cause vibration etc?


I mainly got the 0759 because I wanted a mill with DRO.  The 0704 has been a popular model it seams and the built in glass DROs looked nice.  I am sure I could have gotten a 0704 and added something for less but this was a doable solution that was ready to go.  Hopefully you guys won't convince me I made a mistake .

Thanks again for all of the awesome info in the forum.  I look forward to learning more!

Dave


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## tcarrington (Feb 11, 2016)

It looks like the G0759 is substantially similar to the PM-25MV with DRO. I agree with your assessment on the draw bar. There have been a few threads on a better solution. Check under grizzly forum. I have been OK with it, but sometimes mutter under my breath. As to how tight, most of the folks here will say not ridiculously tight. From a mechanical standpoint you have a thread and the taper on the collet. That will exert considerable pressure. I haven't had anything slip just applying what is about a few ft-lbs. Usually using the wrench on the top and holding the spindle by hand. For larger tools, say 5/8 up and when using the chuck, I apply a little more, usually using the spindle wrench, probably up to about 20 ft-lbs. Nothing like torquing a head bolt or barrel nut. If something slips in a collet, you have another problem. Good luck


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## wrmiller (Feb 11, 2016)

I made a new draw bar with some 4140 allthread and a coupler. Have your friend make you a new bushing for the top of the drawbar.


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## bluepythons (Feb 11, 2016)

wrmiller said:


> I made a new draw bar with some 4140 allthread and a coupler. Have your friend make you a new bushing for the top of the drawbar.


Would you happen to have a photo?  I'm new and have an idea but I'm a visual guy. Does your new bushing thread on the spindle or is it just a spacer? 

Thanks!


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## bluepythons (Feb 11, 2016)

tcarrington said:


> It looks like the G0759 is substantially similar to the PM-25MV with DRO. I agree with your assessment on the draw bar. There have been a few threads on a better solution. Check under grizzly forum. I have been OK with it, but sometimes mutter under my breath. As to how tight, most of the folks here will say not ridiculously tight. From a mechanical standpoint you have a thread and the taper on the collet. That will exert considerable pressure. I haven't had anything slip just applying what is about a few ft-lbs. Usually using the wrench on the top and holding the spindle by hand. For larger tools, say 5/8 up and when using the chuck, I apply a little more, usually using the spindle wrench, probably up to about 20 ft-lbs. Nothing like torquing a head bolt or barrel nut. If something slips in a collet, you have another problem. Good luck


Thank you for the info, how tight do you tighten the retainer bushing that holds the drawbar?


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## wrmiller (Feb 11, 2016)

bluepythons said:


> Would you happen to have a photo?  I'm new and have an idea but I'm a visual guy. Does your new bushing thread on the spindle or is it just a spacer?
> Thanks!



I will try to remember to take a pic tonight when I get home. As for the spacer, it's just a shouldered spacer with a few thou clearance on it's OD and ID to center the drawbar in the spindle and not allow it to flop around.


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## wrmiller (Feb 11, 2016)

Here's a pic of the drawbar I made.


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## bluepythons (Feb 11, 2016)

Awesome thank you for the photo.


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## bluepythons (Feb 12, 2016)

Another question if you guys can help. Just got done tramming it as I wanted to start making some test cuts. Out of the box it appeared the column and head are pretty good. I then mounted the vise and trammed that, it was probably the most accurate I've ever gotten a vise. I used the fixed jaw and ran the dial indicator running the x axis and it's really spot on. 

However when I made a test cut using the y axis it appeared to not cut straight. I don't have that big of scrap pieces to test but when I made a cut in a 1" piece it was .005 off.  Just for fun I ran the indicator along the right edge of the vise  behind the movable jaw and ran it along the y axis and the indicator showed movement.  I have some squares on order to help me but thought I would ask first. Again I'm new and watching as many videos and reading as much as I can. Thanks for all the help!


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## wrmiller (Feb 12, 2016)

Did you have your piece of scrap at one end or the other in your vise? Reason I ask is because many machine vises, my Kurt included, don't like to clamp anything at the edges of the vise jaws without having a similar sized piece on the other side of the vise. Without the extra piece, the movable jaw will tilt slightly and this can cause problems like the part you're machining not being grabbed accurately or moving during the cut.

Just offering a suggestion.


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## bluepythons (Feb 12, 2016)

It was a longer piece that was wider than the vise it stuck out one end and I cut it on the outside as my parallels haven't arrived yet. Good call though.


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## Baithog (Feb 13, 2016)

The draw bar is a joke, and so is the dimple on the spindle that is supposed to be used to hold the spindle while you tighten the draw bar. The draw bar setup was designed to release the collet when you back it off. If you make a replacement, you'll have to whack the draw bar to release the collet. If you make the draw bar with a 3/4" head, you should be able to use a Bridgport style wrench. It comes with a whacker cast into the handle.

My spindle lock dimple tore out in the first few weeks. You can buy an after market spindle lock, or make one yourself. I was doing a project when the dimple failed, so I grabbed a strap wrench to hold the spindle. It works well enough that I've never gotten around to making a proper spindle lock.

You do have to get the draw bar pretty tight. That's hard to do with the tiny top on the draw bar and no proper spindle lock. I nearly trashed a couple of days of machining when I was cutting pockets in the aluminum body of the dog clutch for my 10X22. The aluminum sucked the end mill out of the collet while I was climb milling the pocket. With all the chips all over, I didn't realize what was going on until the mill stalled. I'm real careful on heavy cuts now. A set of end mill holders is on my tool list.

I would not put the collet rack on the motor. You are going to mostly use 3 collets 1/4, 3/8, 1/2. I probably use 3/8 body end mills 75% of the time. You are going to want an end mil rack, a drawer to hold wrenches and stuff, and a shelf for the rotary table that you will eventually get. A tool cabinet like the one in the draw bar picture is nice. I have several. Costco sells them.

You're going to love your new mill. It is so much better than your old X2 that it's scary.


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## wrmiller (Feb 13, 2016)

The tool cabinet in the drawbar picture is what I had my PM25 mounted to. Puts all your tooling right below the mill. Very handy.


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## tcarrington (Feb 13, 2016)

As for the retainer of the drawbar - I keep that fairly tight. Wouldn't want it to come off at 1500 rpm. It would be a swiftly rotating missile. On the drawbar design, I saw one that incorporated the retainer that comes with the PM25 so you can still not have to whack the top of the drawbar. Some will say that whacking the top of the drawbar can be therapeutic.


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## Geirhart (Feb 14, 2016)

Hi Dave,

I was wondering if you could answer a question for me. What is the total height of the 759 sitting on the with the mill head at its maximum height?
Thanks in advance.

Gary


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## bluepythons (Feb 14, 2016)

I don't have the stand it came with as I have it mounted to a bench. I can measure from the bench to the top if that would help. The stand had the machine to low for me that I found I would be bending down to look at the work.


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## Geirhart (Feb 14, 2016)

That would be great. Just make sure that the mill head is at the top of its travel. The only reason I ask is I want to put this machine in a low basement, I want to be sure it will fit before I order it.

Thanks
Gary


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## bluepythons (Feb 14, 2016)

Baithog said:


> The draw bar is a joke, and so is the dimple on the spindle that is supposed to be used to hold the spindle while you tighten the draw bar. The draw bar setup was designed to release the collet when you back it off. If you make a replacement, you'll have to whack the draw bar to release the collet. If you make the draw bar with a 3/4" head, you should be able to use a Bridgport style wrench. It comes with a whacker cast into the handle.
> 
> My spindle lock dimple tore out in the first few weeks. You can buy an after market spindle lock, or make one yourself. I was doing a project when the dimple failed, so I grabbed a strap wrench to hold the spindle. It works well enough that I've never gotten around to making a proper spindle lock.
> 
> ...



Thanks Larry!  I've been looking at spindle locks as already changing tooling is a pain. I'm still not sure what I'll end up doing for the draw bar but an upgrade is definitely in order. I have a shelf and bin for misc stuff now but have been looking for a small tool chest with drawers or some other system that will fit on the bench space next to the mill. So you say I will get a rotary table heh?


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## bluepythons (Feb 14, 2016)

Hopefully this photo attached. It is just a hair under 37" from bench top to the top of the motor cover when the head is as high as it goes.


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## Geirhart (Feb 14, 2016)

Thanks Dave that helps a lot.
Gary


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## rkadrmas (Feb 21, 2016)

Geirhart said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> I was wondering if you could answer a question for me. What is the total height of the 759 sitting on the with the mill head at its maximum height?
> Thanks in advance.
> ...


The mill is 62 1/4" high, with the head all the way up it is almost 69" to the top of the motor.


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## Geirhart (Feb 21, 2016)

Swarf

Thanks for the reply that will help lot...

Gary


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## CPCaballero (Aug 16, 2016)

I am considering ordering the G0759.  It seems to be a bargain with the DRO.  However, I have one misgiving about the machine.  Perhaps owners of the G0759 and of the G0704 would comment.

These mills' spindle travel is only 2 inches.  Other mills in the same size/price range and even smaller ones have spindle travels of 3 to 4 inches.  How limiting have users found this to be?  I know, I know, "it depends upon what you want to make".  I just want to hear others' experiences with this limitation.  Also, if you need a tool travel of more than 2 inches, is it OK to use the Z-axis hand wheel to achieve this?

Thanks for your responses.


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## rkadrmas (Aug 16, 2016)

I am working on changing my G0759 mill to CNC per Hoss instructions.  In that case the quill is locked and everything
is done using the Z axis by moving the head.
I am a hobbyist and am very satisfied with the mill.  The DRO is great to have, since I have not completed the
CNC project yet.


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## RVJimD (Aug 16, 2016)

I know this thread was started a while ago but I had a few things to add that might help those to come along and find it later.  I like the DRO that came with it.  I didn't find a cheaper or better way to do this than what grizzly had done and I was up and running out of the box.  I have had the end mill cutter pull into the work a time or two but I I try to NOT get crazy tightening the draw bar.  The quill travel has never been an issue for me.  For drilling ops I move the head close so the bit is only about 1/4 turn of the handle on the quill.  I wish the DRO on the quill was on the big DRO but that is my only complaint

A friend of mine made me this spindle lock.  I love it and would never consider using the pin lock that came with the mill.  It has a steel pin and set screw holding it so I can pull it out and clean it up if it wears.




I added a counterweight to the head and it makes cranking the head up MUCH easier.  I have it balanced pretty close and up is just as easy as down.




Here is my simple collet rack I made out of .040" aluminum I had on hand.




Jim


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## CPCaballero (Aug 16, 2016)

RVJimD said:


> I wish the DRO on the quill was on the big DRO but that is my only complaint
> 
> Jim



Yikes! I'm happy to know that before buying!  DRO now seems to be a bit of an afterthought.


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## RVJimD (Aug 16, 2016)

There is ALSO a DRO on the quill, but it is a LCD style.  I actually use it most of the time and don't use the z axis DRO on the primary DRO.  The nice thing on the quill is the fine movement on the knob allowing good control, better than moving the entire head.  I am still learning about all this sort of thing so keep that in mind as you consider my rambling.

Jim


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## kd4gij (Aug 16, 2016)

In your second pic it looks like your using a model crane to help move the head.


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