# My New To Me  (and First) Bp



## Sendit (Sep 14, 2016)

After a year of looking I found one.  While it may not be in the best condition as the other I looked at (visually) the owner was trust worthy and honest about everything.  The machine was in a support role for the CNC's.

The only real issue I have, is that the quill gets tight around the 4" mark.  I can lower it to 5 though.  I took the quill out and notice chips in the bore of the quill casting and few small marks on the quill.  Nothing I could fee but you can see it.   I took the allen screw out to just make sure this wasn't  causing any interference.

I'm at the point where do I want to tear it down and paint it, give her some youth back -or- just put it back together with the necessary parts.

The power feed works, still trying to figure out model I have.    The power feed does not like to go slow at all and I'm sure there is hardly any oil in the unit..  I just fired it up to see how it works and etc.  It looks like the electrical components (at least the board) were replaced.


First got her home






Removing the quill.  I used the bed to help catch the quill in case it fell.  I only lower the table .200 or less each time.





There are two markings close to one another that are parallel.  I'm curious if this is causing my stiffness when lowering the quill.   After I cleaned the bore and the quill I sprayed some WD-40 and place the quill back in the quill I could tell that the over felt had improved but not still  as smooth as others.









The unknown model powerfeed


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## minions (Sep 14, 2016)

She looks great! I don't think she needs a paint job.


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## Sendit (Sep 14, 2016)

Thanks Minion.  It's just the previous owner paint job didn't prep it to well thus a lot is flaking
off.


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## dlane (Sep 14, 2016)

Marks on quill are from the quill lock rubbing,  I used a spring to keep the lever up on mine.


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## Sendit (Sep 14, 2016)

dlane said:


> Marks on quill are from the quill lock rubbing,  I used a spring to keep the lever up on mine.


Hey Dlane,   could you post a picture of your setup with the spring?


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## dlane (Sep 14, 2016)

Just a simple spring , may have to zoom in on it , antigravity


Zip tied to head bolt


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## Sendit (Sep 14, 2016)

Zip tied to the head bolt (adjustment bolt).  The spring wrapped around the spindle lock lever?  


Did you paint your machine?  Looks great


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## dlane (Sep 14, 2016)

The quill lock lever was made by PO out of aluminum, I drilled hole in it for spring
Mill is as I got it original paint.


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## woodchucker (Sep 14, 2016)

Forget the WD 40, it's not a lubricant. Use oil.
I would take a look inside the quills column and see if there is anything in there scored or rust that might be a problem.
More likely there is a problem with the drive to lower and raise the (edit) quill column, maybe a spot on a gear not meshing well with the quill.


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## Sendit (Sep 15, 2016)

I'm  slowly taking it apart to clean it and see if any bits need to be replace.  Big thanks to JR for helping me out!

The power feed (6F I think) I started to take a part.  It works but has a slow response time from being switch on to the actual motor moving.











Gibs still have a lot of life left


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## Sendit (Sep 16, 2016)

Got a lot done today. Head is completely off, table, saddle


Should I be concern about how they redid the gibs?










How would I go about dealing new lines to the hammer in fitting


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## JimDawson (Sep 16, 2016)

Sendit said:


> How would I go about dealing new lines to the hammer in fitting?



Not sure what you mean there

And your pictures are red x's


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## Sendit (Sep 17, 2016)

Jim, sorry about that.  It's been corrected


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JimDawson (Sep 17, 2016)

Well, not quite!


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## Sendit (Sep 17, 2016)

Ah darn it.. Ok for sure 100%, this time.. it's correct.


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## JimDawson (Sep 17, 2016)




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## Sendit (Sep 18, 2016)

I went a head and disassemble the head almost completely but there is a needle bearing holding me up.  Reason for the disassembly was to see the overall condition of the head.  But also to be able to sink it in some lacquer thinner to remove the paint.  I tired EZ oven cleaner with no luck.  Normally that stuff just melts it off.


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## Sendit (Sep 19, 2016)

Got the base sanded down.  Read for bondo.


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## Sendit (Sep 23, 2016)

started to lay bondo  down this week.   Laid the last layer tonight to be sanded tomorrow.  I hope to be able to have the base painted and the Knee prepped


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## Sendit (Oct 7, 2016)

Finally shot some paint last night.  With everything going on it's taking me away from this project.. At least now I can order parts and slowly start to put it back together.


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## Sendit (Oct 17, 2016)

Starting to order parts and assemble sub-assemblies.


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## brino (Oct 17, 2016)

Sendit,

Congratulations on the "new" machine.
It looks to be in great condition.

The only problem is that you are waaaay too fast. I have machines waiting for years for that kind of TLC.

-brino


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## FLguy (Oct 18, 2016)

Looks like an A-1 job!! I'm in-pressed at how quickly you restored it.


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## Cheeseking (Oct 18, 2016)

Looks great.  Having done a BP disassembly/move to basement/cleaning/reassembly myself I can appreciate what you have done there and it's a TON of work.


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## Silverbullet (Oct 18, 2016)

Congratulations on your new mill, looks like you got a good one. I'm Always a big fan of variable speed on the head. I've ran a lot of the j heads and m heads with belts . Way to much trouble changing them at last now that I'm old , have no time for belts . 
Your doing a good job right from the start get her fixed up now , later you may never do it. I always figured if it ain't broke don't fix it . Well it's easier when you first get the machine . Paint job looks really great bondo and sanding makes the job .


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## Sendit (Oct 19, 2016)

After having  a crappy week, took refuge in the shop and shot some paint tonight.

Amazing how far it's come in a month.


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## Sendit (Oct 24, 2016)

Got a little bit done,  I'm going down with some bug so I didn't work on it as much as I wanted.


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## Sendit (Oct 28, 2016)

It's finally starting to look like something.


10 minutes with a wire wheel.














Finally starting to look like something.


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## Sendit (Nov 14, 2016)

It's coming together.  I'm waiting on a fitting to test the lube system so then I can place the table back on.


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## FOMOGO (Nov 14, 2016)

Looking really good, gives me hope for mine. Mike


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## brino (Nov 14, 2016)

It's going to look like a new machine!
Great progress.

-brino


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## mmcgirr (Nov 14, 2016)

Looks awesome!

I wish my ways were anywhere near the quality of yours.

Mike


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## Sendit (Feb 21, 2017)

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


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## Sendit (Feb 21, 2017)

DRO and Vise will be here tomorrow.  Need to get a switch and enclosure for the VFD.  Ah, does it ever end.


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## JimDawson (Feb 21, 2017)

Sendit said:


> DRO and Vise will be here tomorrow.  Need to get a switch and enclosure for the VFD.  Ah, does it ever end.



It's just starting


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## woodchucker (Feb 22, 2017)

nice job rebuilding that.  Good luck...


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