# Little mods making things better. (And other Stuff!)



## LX Kid

These are "no big deal" mods but have made things a little easier "for me!"  First I removed the dial indicator and compound slide screw housing off and milled both.  Used 1000 grit to micro polish both mate surfaces and now no binding when turned.  They both showed a lot of wear and grooving on the surfaces.  Got rid of the nut on top of the QCTP and replaced it with a larger nut that didn't have that bevel at the bottom.  Now the wrench doesn't fall off when you want it to stay on.  I put a knurled "big dong" on the compound slide screw instead of that tiny little handle.  Now I can "palm" movement quickly or use fingers for minor adjustment.


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## Mini Cooper S

Nice, I'll have to try that!
Richard


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## MrWhoopee

With apologies to Bob Marley:

"Rise up this mornin'
Smile with the risin' sun
Three little mods
Upon my workbench"


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## LX Kid

I happen to go into a small storage, in back my of shop, looking for some paint thinner and found a Craftsman 1/2 hp 1725 rpm motor I forgot that I had.  I've only a 1/3 hp 1725 rpm now and have been shopping around for at least a 1/2 hp on Craigslist and everyone thinks their used motors are gold plated.  I plugged it in and it works fine.  Took everything apart, painted and waiting for the paint to dry before assembly.  Oh and another plus is it has a pulley on it.


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## LX Kid

Anyone got any ideas on how to tighten up my tailstock piston so it will hold the MT1 better?   Used a tap to make the "big dong" and it wanted to slip so I had to use hand method utilizing the ways.


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## wa5cab

Most likely problem is that at some time in the past, someone had something spin in the tailstock ram and galled the surface.   In order to fix it, you will have to invest in a good quality 1MT reamer.


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## LX Kid

wa5cab said:


> Most likely problem is that at some time in the past, someone had something spin in the tailstock ram and galled the surface.   In order to fix it, you will have to invest in a good quality 1MT reamer.


Well I found out the make several sizes of #1MT reamers.  23/64", .2465 7" long, .2488 3" long, .2676" etc.  I'm guessing I have to have a length that will not be longer that the spindle or it would not work properly.  Won't that make the MT1 arbor have to go deeper?  Guess I need to measure my spindle opening and get one that is same so that I don't go oversize.  If I go oversize them the MT! will go deep and the drill chuck will be up against the spindle mouth and never tighten up.

Anyone heard of a spindle that is longer in length to help with drilling and other functions.  Seems like the spindles are so short!


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## wa5cab

What are you calling the "spindle"?  If you mean the tailstock ram, AFAIK Atlas only made the one size.  Also, making the ram longer won't give you any more travel.  You would also have to lengthen the tailstock and the drive screw.  Which would of course decrease the maximum distance between centers unless you made a longer bed and lead screw.  Or you can buy a 9", 10" or 12" lathe.


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## LX Kid

wa5cab said:


> What are you calling the "spindle"?  If you mean the tailstock ram, AFAIK Atlas only made the one size.


I just measured the mouth of the ram/spindle and it measures .462" and am thinking of just leaving it alone.  If I mess it up I'd never find another ram/spindle and this one does ok with drill bits.  Taps is another story.


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## LX Kid

Must have done something right!  Put the motor back together and rewired it to turn CW and it still runs fine!  Go figure.


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## wa5cab

OK.


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## brino

LX Kid said:


> Won't that make the MT1 arbor have to go deeper?



If the existing tail-stock ram internal taper is just slightly galled from something spinning, it likely only has a few rings around the internal surface.
That means a tool will only be touching those high spots, it won't have much friction and can spin again easily.
A taper reamer can be used lightly to just remove the high spots to clean up the taper for a much better fit.

Unless the internal taper is really messed-up you won't be cutting much material.

-brino


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## wa5cab

If you only use the reamer to knock off the high spots, as far as any male taper is concerned, you will have returned the taper to its original dimensions, not made it deeper.  That is what you should shoot for.


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## LX Kid

Mounted the new/old 1/2 hp motor this morning and everything runs fine.  The belt does not rub on the motor but just the same I put some foil air-conditioning ductwork tape on top of the motor just in case.  Don't know if anyone else does the same for a swarf pan as I did.  Went to the auto parts store and bought a garage oil drip pan for $10 to mount everything on.  I also found a cafeteria tray that I cut couple inches off one end to catch most all the chips that fall.  Think I might paint the tailstock blue to counterbalance the blue motor color.  Who knows, "One day I might actually try and make something!"  It's kinda like getting all dressed up and nowhere to go if you know what I mean!  Couple more pics just to keep it visually interesting.


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## brino

LX Kid said:


> Who knows, "One day I might actually try and make something!" It's kinda like getting all dressed up and nowhere to go if you know what I mean!



That lathe and chip-pan do look too clean!   
-brino


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## LX Kid

brino said:


> That lathe and chip-pan do look too clean!
> -brino


Pretty much  done with the "shake down" to make it as best as it can be for a 74 year old lathe.  Now all I have to do is find a little project that is worthy of my unworthy machine skills!   The first thing I want to learn is how to make a proper threat of different pitches and tpi's.  I have a set of metal change gears on order and should be here in the next day or two.  I know that sounds like a basic skill but something I want to learn.


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## Larry$

Very nice project. You may find a need for a back splash. Cutting oil tends to fly and so do metal chips. Maybe I'm just sloppy.


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## jwmelvin

Larry$ said:


> You may find a need for a back splash. Cutting oil tends to fly and so do metal chips. Maybe I'm just sloppy.


The wall behind my lathe certainly agrees with you! That's definitely on my list of potential projects...


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## wa5cab

Two points - 
(1)  Mounting the countershaft behind the bed and the motor behind the countershaft per the factory instructions will have two and possibly three benefits.  (1) The belts will be shorter and therefore less expensive.  (2) Belt vibration problems will be reduced.  (3) The overall footprint of the machine will be about half of what it ended up.

(2)  If the A/C aluminum tape keeps chips from getting into the ventilation holes in the motor, it will also keep the heat build-up inside of the motor, potentially causing an early failure due to fried stator windings.  One workaround is to form/bend an aluminum or steel plate to a radius about 1/2" greater than the stator radius and a little longer than the motor.  Or a better solution would be to start with a TEFC motor.  And build a duct for the fan to work through.


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## LX Kid

brino said:


> If the existing tail-stock ram internal taper is just slightly galled from something spinning, it likely only has a few rings around the internal surface.
> That means a tool will only be touching those high spots, it won't have much friction and can spin again easily.
> A taper reamer can be used lightly to just remove the high spots to clean up the taper for a much better fit.
> Unless the internal taper is really messed-up you won't be cutting much material.
> -brino


It tightens up fine for using a drill chuck on MT1 arbor.  Only saw it was a problem when using a tap and used hand tapping workaround.  So it's really not that big a problem.  There so many sizes of MT1, diameter and length,  that it's hard to decide which one to purchase.  I thought an MT! is one size but found out that's not so.  I used a round steel brush on a drill to clean inside the ram/spindle for any residue that might be gumming up the inside.  I guess I'm just worrying about something that doesn't need to be worrying about at this time.  Large drill bits may present a problem in any future use.


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## Shootymacshootface

I have learned that asking too much from a small machine always ends in frustration. Go easy and let the machine work at a pace that IT is comfortable with. It will tell you when it's unhappy with what you are doing, you just have to listen.


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## brino

LX Kid said:


> Large drill bits may present a problem in any future use.



Right, MT1 is pretty small.
Somewhere I remember seeing someone using a straight-legged lathe dog that was fastened (via set-screw) to a drill bit just above the shank.
The drill shank was fully in the tailstock taper, and the lathe dog was run against a piece of wood to protect the ways.
The tailstock provided the centre, and the lathe dog helped with torque.

Below is a similar picture of machine tapping from the 1958 edition of SouthBend "How to Run a Lathe"

-brino


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## markba633csi

FYI:  The tailstock "ram/piston/spindle"  is what we usually call a quill
The term spindle is mostly reserved for the headstock
-Mark


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## wa5cab

The generally accepted term or name for the cylinder that can be moved or extended out of the front of the tailstock on an engine lathe is "ram".

"Quill" can have several meanings.  But one applicable to machine tools is the rotating extendable part of a drill press or some vertical mills..  In the latter case, it usually applies only to the part or portion of the mill that can have a drill chuck mounted on it and that can be hand operated just like most drill presses.  The operative difference in this case is that the tailstock ram must not rotate and the milling machine quill must rotate in order to perform their functions.

Also, FWIW, "ram" is the only part name used by Atlas from the 1932 9" to the 1977 Metric 6" and the 1978 12700 school 12".


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## jwmelvin

wa5cab said:


> The operative difference in this case is that the tailstock ram must not rotate and the milling machine quill must rotate in order to perform their functions.



I really don’t know what I’m talking about but I was under the impression that the quill is just the non rotating portion that carries a rotating spindle. I do have some old books that would probably address the issue. 

The extension mechanisms for a quill and tailstock ram are quite different.


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## LX Kid

After some research the quill and ram are synonymously used.  While the ram is more commonly used to describe the tailstock piston portion.  Many references have also used "quill" as the same thing.  For instance in drill presses "quill" describes the ram portion that goes up and down in the drill presses head. This is the vertical use of the same thing in a lathes horizontal orientation.  Ram is he most commonly used wording when talking about lathe tailstocks.  Probably has something to do with European and American terminology.   Anyway I'll be calling it a "RAM" from now on to prevent any confusion.


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## LX Kid

My change gears arrived a couple of days ago.  There were 9 gears "but" I didn't get a 40 tooth but did get a 48 tooth.  Without the 40 tooth I wouldn't be able to cut threads smaller that 18tpi.  I ordered a nylon 40 tooth gear.  I will start training myself to cut threads maybe tomorrow.  I do have the right gears for19tpi up to whatever. Gotta figure out how deep to cut the threads.  I did see a YouBoob video where they were using "Pee Dee" steeI strands with a micrometer to get proper depth once the depth is known.  Ordered a couple of woodruff keys 3/8" x 1-3/4" and they seem to work fine in the lantern tool holder that I will probably never use.  Now I do have a good lantern post should I find I need it.  

I also have asked for help in finding out what this extra change gear set fits should anyone know.  You can follow this forum link to see the picture.   
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/help-id-change-gear-set.96347/


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## LX Kid

Couple more improvements.  I've hated the compound and cross slide gib screw having to use a small screwdriver for adjustment.  I ordered allen head SS screws for the cross slide and lathed a button, for lack of correct terminology, on the end where it contacts the gibb.  There are three screws, on cross slide, and on the center screw I made it longer so I could add washers for ease of getting a wrench on the jam nut.  I had to order allen grub screws for the compound otherwise the heads would hit the compound base.

Also, on the back gear shaft, I put an "O" ring between the engagement lever and housing to male the lever tight.  Used some paper between the back gear and headstock engaging gear just like the change gears.  I maked the housing, next to the lever, for proper adjusting of the back gear.  You can see where I maked the housing with a permanent marker in the photo.  This cut down on the "some" of the noise coming from the back gear when engaged.


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## Janderso

LX Kid said:


> Mounted the new/old 1/2 hp motor this morning and everything runs fine.  The belt does not rub on the motor but just the same I put some foil air-conditioning ductwork tape on top of the motor just in case.  Don't know if anyone else does the same for a swarf pan as I did.  Went to the auto parts store and bought a garage oil drip pan for $10 to mount everything on.  I also found a cafeteria tray that I cut couple inches off one end to catch most all the chips that fall.  Think I might paint the tailstock blue to counterbalance the blue motor color.  Who knows, "One day I might actually try and make something!"  It's kinda like getting all dressed up and nowhere to go if you know what I mean!  Couple more pics just to keep it visually interesting.


Nice job!
What’s up with the elephant devil?


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## LX Kid

I'm a "Mad" republican, hinse elephant, who's against "The Socialist States of America" Administration!


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## wa5cab

Good show on the motor.

Note that the section view drawing of a tailstock is not from Atlas..  The first giveaway is that the locking lever in the wrong shape and in the wrong location.


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## LX Kid

Made a gear hobbing tool.  Also with changing of the insert it can be a keyway cutting tool.  I used a 5/8" round stock, cause it's what I had, and milled three sides to get it down to 1/2" to fit my OXA tool post. After making it, I gave a little thought to the size of gear hole it would have to be pretty large to be able to use it.  Guess I use it on an outside shaft keyway but would probably use my mill for that.


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## LX Kid

I'm really liking my 6" lathe more and more and missing my South Bend 9A less.  With all the little things I'm doing has made this 74 year old lathe work very good!  Some things I'm learning is one carbide type doesn't do all things.  Tightening the gibbs made a lot of difference in the cutting and finish.  Going up to a 1/2 hp motor over the 1/3 hp along with a new 3-jaw chuck made a lot difference.  Adding a steel OXA QCTP is really a must for speed and accuracy.  I have a new live center which is called a "long nose live center" made life better.  Now I can get close to the live center without the cutting tool holder hitting the live center.  I need to start looking for a project that has an interest and use for me.

This restoration project has really been an expensive endeavor.  I finished my listing all the parts, materials and accessories bought.  Lathe and parts, $1339 and the accessories $465 for a total of $1804.  Granted I didn't need all the accessories but what's the use of the lathe if you don't have all the goodies to be able to use it.  Maybe a few items I spent a little more for because I didn't want to wait forever for them to arrive from China.  If anyone would like to see the cost spreadsheet just let me know.


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## LX Kid

Three more little things!   First in put grease on the gears, second I put "new" gears on the spindle as well as the forward are reverse gears and lastly I put a different handle on the cross slide.  The faucet handle had to go as it was just too small a handle.  The change gears are noticeably quieter.  I was rummaging around dark corners of my shop and found a small box with the "new" and a couple other Craftsman 101 items.  I have another "new" back gear as well.  Wish I had found these parts before I bought them again for the restoration.  About 20 years ago I had owned another Craftsman 101 and had sold it.  I ordered two nylon reversing gears to see how they would work out as far as gear noise. goes.   They were only $20 so why not!


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## LX Kid

My lathe has come a long way from the time I bought it for $150.  But I guess worth and value are two different things! LoL


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## Weldingrod1

Hoooley C#%^!
That's an amazing change!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## LX Kid

I received my nylon reversing gears this afternoon and put them on.  It sounded like a "thrashing" machine!  I checked the outside diameter of both gears and the 20 tooth was .006" over and the 24 tooth was .013" over.  After filing them down to proper dimensions my lathe now is so quiet!  The were putting excess pressure on the stud gear causing all the noise.  You can have a whispering conversation while it's running.


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## LX Kid

I ordered a 3" dialed hand wheel for the cross slide.  It's same size as the original.  Probably won't be here till about last week of December if I'm lucky.  (China)

UPDATE 12/16/21:  Received the calibrated dial and installed on my lathe.  The Cross Slide shaft diameter is 3/8" so I had to make a bushing to reduce the dial's inside diameter to fit shaft.  Worked out fine.  Now I have to make a pointer to enable the use of the calibrations on the dial.


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## LX Kid

Well in my "infinite wisdom" the cross slide handle I put on isn't working out so well.  Everytime I turn the carriage feed handle I accidentally hit the cross slide feed and changes the setting.  It's gonna have to be replaced with a smaller handle.  Guess I'll put the faucet handle back on as it ads so much character to the professional look!  LoL  Could remove the "spurs" off the handle and knurl the outside and would probably work alright.  "OR" move the spur handle up on the compound as it's really ergonomic.  I can't believe how quiet my lathe has become with putting nylon reversing gears on and using grease on change gears.  With the mod I did on the back gear, as shown earlier, really made a difference in noise reduction.


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## LX Kid

Did my first purposeful use for my lathe today.  A neighbor heard I had a lathe and brought me ten 3/4" rods he wanted to make into hinge pins for a very large heavy double door that he is building in his art studio.  What a deal for him.  I get the practice and he gets work done for free "but" with no guranteed results.   As it turns out things are working out well after I quit using my electronic caliper and went to my micrometer.  That electronic caliper just put me into a lot of measurement trouble.  He's some pics just to keep it interesting.  Chuck to tailstock is off by less than .001" over 10" but is not critical for these pins.  Have four more to do.


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## brino

LX Kid said:


> What a deal for him. I get the practice and he gets work done for free "but" with no guranteed results.



Don't be shy to charge for your services. 
You have collected machines, accessories, supplies, knowledge, etc. all at your cost.
Sure it may be your hobby and you're glad to get practice, but it is worth something.

The exact price is something I still struggle with at times, but I've learned if you give the service away it kinda cheapens it in their eyes, and there will be an endless string of "favours", just because you have the equipment.

Someone with an art studio should certainly understand the idea of charging for your creativity, effort and space.

-brino


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## LX Kid

Still messing around with knob configuration.  I added two upgrades.  1st is a calibrated dial on the cross slide and 2nd is a carriage lock handle that stays on the carriage.  For those interested in quieting down the gear noise, I used a brown paper grocery bag strip that was doubled and squished between the gears for gear play adjustment. (About .011") Really works well.  I also added nylon forward/reverse gears 20 & 24 tooth on the shifter.  (Don't you just love that technical talk!   LoL)  The gear mesh on the stud gear was a little tight and I had to remove some of the outside diameter.  Pic is before reducing diameter.


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## LX Kid

LX Kid said:


> I ordered a 3" dialed hand wheel for the cross slide.  It's same size as the original.  Probably won't be here till about last week of December if I'm lucky.  (China)
> 
> UPDATE 12/16/21:  Received the calibrated dial and installed on my lathe.  The Cross Slide shaft diameter is 3/8" so I had to make a bushing to reduce the dial's inside diameter to fit shaft.  Worked out fine.  Now I have to make a pointer to enable the use of the calibrations on the dial.  Probably have to drill and tap a hole to attach a pointer.


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## LX Kid

I know a lot of people say never use grease or similar on the change gears and I'm guessing it's because fear of swarf sticking to them.  However I'm trying Chain Guard synthetic clear spray.  It's mostly used for motorcycle and bicycle chains.  It's clear and doesn't fling off or have a buildup.  It also reduced my gear noise.


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## LX Kid

Yup, still messing around with the knobs!  With the new calibrated hand wheel I found that my knuckle keeps hitting the crossfeed knob changing my setting.  I made a longer crossfeed knob that moved it further out so I don't hit it.  (Now isn't this just sooo exciting!)  I may also shorten the speed handle about 3/8" and retaining screw to even give me more clearance for the knuckles!  LoL


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## brino

LX Kid said:


> Yup, still messing around with the knobs!



Modding and customization.........really making it yours and one of a kind!

-brino


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## LX Kid

I'm starting to believe that a lot of cutting problems may be a result of using the more heavy new chuck I bought.  As one forum member noted that "I have a lot of chuck hanging out there."  Only reason I bought a new chuck was because my three jaw chuck only has outside clamping jaws and came with no center clamping jaws.  Anyone know where I can find centering jaws for my chuck?  Haven't been able to find a chuck that is similar to the original chuck in depth and weight.


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## Grinderman

LX Kid said:


> I know a lot of people say never use grease or similar on the change gears and I'm guessing it's because fear of swarf sticking to them.  However I'm trying Chain Guard synthetic clear spray.  It's mostly used for motorcycle and bicycle chains.  It's clear and doesn't fling off or have a buildup.  It also reduced my gear noise.


I used to get swarf in my change gears once and awhile. The simple fix is to put a plug in the end of the spindle. I used a rubber plug but anything could be used. Of course you have to remove it for long stock but no more chips in the gears.


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## jwmay

That's an Atlas 618 right? Search on Ebay for an original Atlas Chuck with the correct threaded bore to mount on your spindle. All the new chucks are plain back with a backing plate. That backing plate moves your chuck another 1.5" further out. 
Unfortunately, the inside jaws for the chuck you have are lost for all time. In theory, a person could make their own.  But I've only read of one guy who did it.  He's a little further along in the hobby than us. Lol


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## jwmay

Craftsman 6" Lathe 4" Three Jaw Scroll Chuck - Inside & Outside, Key 1" X 8 TPI  | eBay
					

It is off of a Craftsman 101.07301 6" lathe. This has the less common 1" X 8TPI spindle threads as the Atlas lathes had 1" X 10 TPI threads during this era. 4" Three Jaw Scroll Chuck - Inside & Outside Jaws, Key,1" X 8 TPI.



					www.ebay.com
				



Well it's possible I'm wrong about that. I just went looking and didn't find what I described for the 618. I know they exist for the 10F, and made a faulty assumption. But that link will take you to a chuck with both sets of jaws, which is probably what you want.


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## LX Kid

With the backing plate, my chuck is twice the depth and weight of original chucks.  Could buy another chuck from Shar's but it's $200!  I'd still have to use a backing place "butt" it may correct some of my cutting run out problems.  This lathe has been like a "black hole" that I have just thrown a lot of money at and still have no real precision.  Chuck and spindle bushings have to be the problem.   

I had a irritant for several years with my mill and did a little lathing project that to correct.  The hex wrench that pulls the collet tight would always fall off onto the floor when spinning it with my finger to tighten.  I made a bushing with a smaller 3/8" hole to hold the hex wrench vertical and not flopping around in a large 1/2" hole.  Worked out great.


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## jwmay

Sorry. I guess you already knew that nugget about the chuck and backing plate.


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## LX Kid

I gave myself a little Xmas present yesterday.  It is a Husky 46" roll-around tool cabinet!  I had so many tools scattered all around the shop and now have co-located everything in one place next to the lathe.  I got it from Home Depot for $498 and thought it was really a great bargain.


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## Larry$

I like those types of boxes. Different brands have different drawer configurations. So your next one might need to be a different brand. 
Won't be long and you'll need another!


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## LX Kid

I need to find a chuck that is same size as original chuck.  Old chuck is 1.5"x4" and the new chuck is 2.5" and 3" with the back plate.   That's twice the size of the original factory chuck!  The new chuck is 6 lbs and back plate is 2.88 lbs.  So all in all I have 8.88 pounds hanging off the end of the spindle nose.  I may be stuck with buying a used chuck with center jaws as I already have the outside jaws.


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## LX Kid

After looking on Amazon and Ebay for a lighter and narrower chuck it doesn't look like another chuck is in the near future.  I did go ahead and ordered new bushings and will see if that has any positive effects.


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## jwmay

Bushings for what?


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## LX Kid

jwmay:  Did you notice in the description it says if has a removable back plate.  That is the same chuck I already have bought and using for $53 and the back plate, 1"x 8tpi,  was about $40 if I remember correctly.  So you still talking 8.88 lbs hanging off the end of the nose spindle.  I've searched Amazon and Ebay till my eyes didn't want to work anymore and are of the opinion that the only thing I can do is find an original used chuck which they seem to be scarce.  I've got the 4-jaw with center jaws but no outside jaws.  The jaws are not interchangeable.


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## LX Kid

Got tired of chucking up a countersink so I ordered a soft blank MT1 and drilled it out and tapped it for 8-32 set screw.


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## LX Kid

jwmay said:


> Bushings for what?


My Craftsman lathe is an early model 101.07301 which has spindle bushings instead of roller bearings.   When I restored the last last year I had some problems with the spindle bushings and may have damaged them while taking them in and out several times so I'll replace them just to make sure all is well with the spindle.  With no load on the chuck my run out is .001" but when cutting there is a .0035" difference from the chuck and tailstock cut.  But of course I don't own a cross slide / compound follower that might help with that.


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## LX Kid

Anyone had any experience with cleaning oil deposits from the link belts I'm using?  I notice that my belt is starting to slip at times when cutting.  If it were a "normal" fan belt I would have used mineral spirits on a rag but with a link belt it wants to grab that rag right out of my hand and into the pulleys!  LoL


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## jwmay

I don't think you can replace the bushings with something off the shelf and get something better than .0035".  But I've been wrong a time or two.  I always thought the bushings in it, were fitted special. And so far as cleaning the link belt goes, you may try to do that with the motor unplugged.


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## LX Kid

jwmay said:


> I don't think you can replace the bushings with something off the shelf and get something better than .0035".  But I've been wrong a time or two.  I always thought the bushings in it, were fitted special. And so far as cleaning the link belt goes, you may try to do that with the motor unplugged.


I've been thinking about it and "maybe" a fingernail brush with a little solvent on it might work.  As far as the bushings go there is a large slotted tightening screw for each bushings and you just loosen the screw and they slide out with a little pressure applied.  And yes that is after removing the spindle from the head.


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## jwmay

Yeah like I said, I've been wrong a time or two. Lol


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## LX Kid

Just did a test cut over 5.5"length.  At the chuck my mic is telling me it's cutting deeper by about.0035" at the chuck than at the tailstock.  What if I offset the tailstock by .003" so that more material is cut at the tailstock to match the chuck measurement?    And just left it that way.  Inquiring minds want to know!


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## jwmay

Try it and see. What's the worst that could happen?
What's the diameter of the work piece? Depth of cut? I think it could just be deflection of the workpiece.


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## LX Kid

My spindle bushings came in this afternoon and I replaced the old ones.  It is definitely tighter now but is expected until they wear in a little.  The old ones did have some scaring on them but otherwise looked ok.  They were not as tight on the spindle as the new ones so maybe I did some good.  Even though the bushings are supposedly porus I drilled a very tiny 5/64" hole for lubrication.

Side Note:  Wasn't feeling well today and did a home Covid test and it was positive.  Wife and I have appointments for tomorrow to do another test at CVS Pharmacy.  If she's ok I'll make her stay at daughters house.  She's 77 and am pretty concerned for her.


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## jwmay

I wish you a speedy recovery! Hopefully your wife didn't catch it. My wife and kids didn't. 
I'm looking forward to hearing back with some run out numbers with the new spindle bearings.


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## LX Kid

jwmay said:


> I wish you a speedy recovery! Hopefully your wife didn't catch it. My wife and kids didn't.
> I'm looking forward to hearing back with some run out numbers with the new spindle bearings.


Thanks!  I'm making a batch of Hydroxychloroquine until I can see my doctor.  On YouBoob it shows how to make a natural liquid Hydroxychloroquine.  Sounds crazy but might be worth a try.


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## Larry$

LX Kid said:


> Hydroxychloroquine


FDA canceled this on June 15, 2020 because clinical studies showed that hydroxychloroquine is unlikely to be effective for treatment of COVID-19 in these patients and some serious side effects, such as irregular heartbeat, were reported.


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## NigelPearson

LX Kid said:


> I need to find a chuck that is same size as original chuck.  Old chuck is 1.5"x4" and the new chuck is 2.5" and 3" with the back plate.   That's twice the size of the original factory chuck!  The new chuck is 6 lbs and back plate is 2.88 lbs.  So all in all I have 8.88 pounds hanging off the end of the spindle nose.  I may be stuck with buying a used chuck with center jaws as I already have the outside jaws.


From the picture, the back plate looks quite thick. Have you thought about turning that down to make it thinner?


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## LX Kid

NigelPearson said:


> From the picture, the back plate looks quite thick. Have you thought about turning that down to make it thinner?


The mounting bolt holes are quite deep and l don't see that as a viable option.


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## LX Kid

jwmay said:


> I wish you a speedy recovery! Hopefully your wife didn't catch it. My wife and kids didn't.
> I'm looking forward to hearing back with some run out numbers with the new spindle bearings.


Best runout I could get was .003".  Guess I'll just have to live with it.


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## jwmay

That seems good to me. With a 4 jaw independent chuck, I think you could dial it in to zero. I've been looking for this ad all day, and finally found it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atlas-Craf...p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
I sent him an email asking about the chucks he has, but haven't heard back yet. Anyways it looks like he has a ton of stuff, so maybe you could make a deal with him for an OEM chuck.


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## LX Kid

LX Kid said:


> Anyone had any experience with cleaning oil deposits from the link belts I'm using?  I notice that my belt is starting to slip at times when cutting.  If it were a "normal" fan belt I would have used mineral spirits on a rag but with a link belt it wants to grab that rag right out of my hand and into the pulleys!  LoL


I found a way that worked pretty good for me.  I coiled the belt with a tie wrap and soaked it in gasoline for a few minutes.  I then used a small SS brush and scrubbed the heck out of it.  Before putting it back on the lathe I cleaned the pulleys of any oil deposits.


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## Firebrick43

Larry$ said:


> FDA canceled this on June 15, 2020 because clinical studies showed that hydroxychloroquine is unlikely to be effective for treatment of COVID-19 in these patients and some serious side effects, such as irregular heartbeat, were reported.


100's of millions of people have taken hydroxychoroquine for malaria, arthritis, and lupus.  I was on it in the Marine Corps in 2003 as was everyone else in the group, with no side effects other than some peoples eyes/skin turned a pale yellow color.  Don't be duplicitous, make sure you tell the side effects of the alternative.


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## jwmay

@LX Kid I hope you're still feeling well. 
I heard back from that fellow on Ebay.  He said the chucks I was asking about aren't available at this time. And provided his private email. So I guess he's no help to you.
Edited my reply to someone I didn't think I was talking to.


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## LX Kid

Firebrick43 said:


> 100's of millions of people have taken hydroxychoroquine for malaria, arthritis, and lupus.  I was on it in the Marine Corps in 2003 as was everyone else in the group, with no side effects other than some peoples eyes/skin turned a pale yellow color.  Don't be duplicitous, make sure you tell the side effects of the alternative.


As I mentioned before, this is a natural homemade concoxion I got off YouBoob.  It's made from grapefruit and lemon peelings and it's boiled liquid is the "medicine".  Second day of usage I noticed that my symptoms disappeared.  My temp went from 99.8 down to normal  97.6 to  98 degrees.  I still haven't been notified by CVS Lab that I actually have Covid.  My Binex home test indicated that I did have it.  I have felt normal the last couple of days and even been bicycle riding and tinkering out in the shop and racking leaves.  I'm really just hoping that the Lab results come back negative and hope it was just a bad cold.  Can't really say wheather the liquid did anything good or bad but doesn't seem to have done any harm.   One tbsp morning and evening but bitter as hell!

I'm just glad that I live in Florida where Governor De Santis has implemented Covid sanity .  The  Feds and the Democrat Party want to instill fear to gain control and power over a free people to decide what "they" want to inject into our bodies.


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## jwmay

Glad to hear you're feeling better. I'm happy to avoid any discussion of politics here. Hopefully you'll find some outside jaws for that chuck and you'll be off to the races! I read about a guy who made his own set. You up for that?


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## LX Kid

jwmay said:


> Glad to hear you're feeling better. I'm happy to avoid any discussion of politics here. Hopefully you'll find some outside jaws for that chuck and you'll be off to the races! I read about a guy who made his own set. You up for that?


Are you kidding me?  I can barely find the power switch.  LoL  Seems like I always find something else going wrong with the lathe.  I tried cutting some 1" test stock and only takeling a .003" cut and the darn thing stalls and quits.  I checked belt tightness and speed feeds and was fine.  I even changed the tooling using both carbide and tool steel cutters.  Seems like I could easily cut .003" without stalling.  What ya think my problem is.  Maybe something between  my ears that's not working correctly??  Wonder if it has anything to do with the link belt cleaning that now lets it slip.


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## jwmay

You will get it sorted out I'm sure. But yeah the last time I stalled the chuck it was because I forgot to engage the tensioner. Another time it was because I had it in back gear with the spindle locked to the pulley set.  There was another time... but I can't remember what I'd done that time. These machines keep us on our toes!


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## LX Kid

My motor is a 1/2hp and should be more than enough to keep the chuck turning.  Tomorrow I'll try and put some belt dressing on the link belt and see what happens.


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## LX Kid

With all the efforts to clean the link belt I think I may have ruined it.  After cleaning it twice, once with gasoline and second with acetone, the belt did get clean but slips.  I can hold the chuck with my hand and pull on a tight belt and it slips thru the pulleys in the headstock.  Cleaning probably leached out some much needed binding of the material.  I sprayed belt dressing on the belt and now it grabs and doesn't slip.  Haven't tried cutting round stock yet but has to be better.   A regular fan belt may be in my lathes near future.  Seems like my lathe ought to handle a .007" or .008" cut but fear that's not going to happen.


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## brino

@LX Kid

I just found a reference to how the direction the link-belt is installed will affect the grip:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/adventures-in-my-new-to-me-enco-lathe.85132/post-772756

Thanks to @pontiac428

Brian


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## LX Kid

brino said:


> @LX Kid
> 
> I just found a reference to how the direction the link-belt is installed will affect the grip:
> https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/adventures-in-my-new-to-me-enco-lathe.85132/post-772756
> 
> Thanks to @pontiac428
> 
> Brian


Thanks for the link but my belt is installed in the correct direction.  After putting belt dressing on the belt it no longer slips.


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## LX Kid

So far the worst thing about my lathe is my inability to correct all the slop in the cross slide and compound screw.  My lathe is quiet in both the neutral and forward/reverse directions.  Even the back gear is very tolerable.  Many hours of working on gears and their adjustment along with lubrication has done wonders.  Tightening the gibs has helped but is only a temp fix as they seem to go out of adjustment.  New brass nuts on the cross slide and compound screws didn't do anything for the slop!  Short of making a new compound and cross slide I just don't believe there is much more I can do for this 74 year old lathe.  Finding "new" screws would "maybe" make a difference.  Maybe it's time to let it go to someone who wants it more than me.  After replacing the headstock bushings I don't believe the chuck would be an issue anymore.  Take my loss and buy a Mathews Precision Lathe would be a positive step for me in my opinion.


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## Larry$

There is no such thing as "perfect." All mechanical things will have some  "slop." It is possible to eliminate backlash on screw feeds. But it isn't necessary on a manual lathe. Since cutting forces are always pushing against the screws in the same direction the forces on the screw remain against one side of the thread only. CNC machines move both ways  and the cutting forces reverse so they use preloaded ball nuts and ground screws. Costs a lot more and wouldn't make a manual machine any more accurate. 
Dovetail slides get worn in the area most used. The areas at the end of their  travel is less worn and so you can't adjust the gibs so all play is removed on a worn machine. See scraping videos about how to true slides.  A member on this site is an expert, R King. Look @ his videos. 
A new lathe will have backlash also!


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## jwmay

Well if you do give up on it, I'm sure you'll be quite pleased with a new lathe. 
But I sure do like these little Atlas lathes.  My 10" version seems quite a bit better with a longer, heavier cross slide. It's a couple grand cheaper than a PM machine. I mean to say the cross slide did a world of good.


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## LX Kid

Tomorrow I'll take the gibs off the cross slide and compound slide and polish them with 400 grit oxide layed on glass.  I'll also polish the divets in the gibs as well and insure the gib adjustment screws are rounded and polished as well.


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## jwmay

And my compound slide is basically locked all the time. I loosen one gib screw a little if I need to use it. I wish we'd get some more opinions in your thread here, but it looks to me like your compound slide is extended too far. I keep the front of the compound slide sitting on the front of its mating slide.


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## LX Kid

Rigidity is the biggest problem with these little Atlas / Craftsman lathes.  I think they were primarily used, "back in the day," for auto starter and generator rebuilding.  Probably weren't really used much for steel cutting and turning.  Maybe I'll try putting the lamp post on and not use so much carbide tooling in my efforts.  Second thoughts, no I won't do that but will try more steel tooling.  Lamp posts are a pain.


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## LX Kid

Did as mentioned above this morning and it did make a difference.  Found that all the gib screws may have giving bad sense of adjustment when tightening them.  All of the gib hole threads were crusty so I ran a tap thru them and now has a better sense of tightening.  Used 500 grit laid on glass to polish the gibs.  Snugged all the gib screws a little more than usual to keep vibration down when turning stock.


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## jwmay

Another idea is to get rid of the compound altogether. Some people just mount a block of steel to the cross slide to hold the toolpost. That makes a difference too.


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## FOMOGO

Adjustment of gibs makes a big difference on any lathe, but especially on these. Pretty happy in general with my old 12" after spending some time getting it right. I use carbide on it a lot, and it works fine for me. These machines get a lot of bad mouthing, but mine has served me well, and I enjoy running it even though I have bigger machines. Mike


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## LX Kid

After polishing my gibs, chasing the gib screw threads and and adjustment has done wonders.  About 15 years ago I used to have a Shop Task CNC modified 3-in-one lathe that came with an extra compound.  I was looking at it to see if I could modify the compound to fit my Craftsman lathe.  Doesn't look very promising as the Shop Task was a 16" swing and a little. large for my 6" lathe.


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## LX Kid

I have a couple of 1hp DC motors and controllers and was thinking I might do a mod.  This 1/2hp motor I currently have is a little underpowered for cutting steel.  Both the controllers are soft start which I think would be a good thing.


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## LX Kid

Just when I was about to give up on my little lathe it is "purring" along just fine.  No more vibration in the cut, quiet and a reduced less difference in chuck and tailstock.  I attribute cut difference due to my offsetting the tailstock a couple thou.  I can't overstress the importance that the gibs and gig screw holes being in proper working condition in order to make good firm gib adjustments.  (As I found out!) I don't have any projects in mind so now I don't know what to play around with other than a DC motor mod.  I may move along to using my mill with a dividing head I've had for years and never took time to learn how to use it.  I just bought a set of gear cutters and will give a try at making a couple of gears.  (That will be a new forum posting though!)


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## LX Kid

Sphere cutting jig under construction.  I got this idea off YouBoob from a posted video by A1 Custom Solutions.  (Video link below.)  Just have to figure out how to make the cutting tool sharp.  Pics are just to show the idea not the final jig!


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## Winegrower

Interesting.   It seems to me that advancing the tool with the compound set to an angle like the video shows changes the center of rotation pass to pass.  Is there any reason that would be desirable?   I don't see it.


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## LX Kid

Winegrower said:


> Interesting.   It seems to me that advancing the tool with the compound set to an angle like the video shows changes the center of rotation pass to pass.  Is there any reason that would be desirable?   I don't see it.


You may be right.  Looking at his finished "spheres" they don't look like round balls.  The raw stock has to be threaded in order to make the cut.  I "think" by using the compound it will cause the threaded hole to move from the desired 90 degree.  Seems you have to use cross slide adjustments to make a round ball.

Update:  I just reviewed the video again and he "is" turning the cross slide and not the compound.  I wonder what degree he ground his tool at???  Could be a two facet grind on the tool.


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## jwmay

Looks like it works!


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## LX Kid

I did a test cut and my 3/8" round bar was not HSS and just bent over real quick.  Gonna have try and find a piece of 3/8" HSS round bar stock to make a tool cutter.  I measured the distance of my jig and the smallest sphere I can make will be 1" and I guess that is just about right for my uses.  Might "maybe" could buy a couple of the round carbide inserts and adapt that to my tool cutter but that will mean my spheres will be larger than 1" to facilitate the round cutter on the tools' end.


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## LX Kid

Added a pointer to my cross slide hand dial.  Not very accurate but it almost looks important!  LoL


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## LX Kid

Weldingrod1 said:


> Hoooley C#%^!
> That's an amazing change!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


Well if you think that cool check out this South Bend 9A I did last year.


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## jwmay

Where did that go? I think you and me are the only people on Earth that had something other than an Atlas lathe, and kept the Atlas. Lol


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## LX Kid

jwmay said:


> Where did that go? I think you and me are the only people on Earth that had something other than an Atlas lathe, and kept the Atlas. Lol


About three months ago I sold the South Bend and have been regretting it ever since.  You can do so much more with a 9" lathe with the gear change box and larger spindle hole and chuck.  The guy that bought it never even put it on a stand yet.  It's just been sitting on his garage floor.   I think I got all the bugs worked out of my Craftsman 6" and it has been working very well.  Just don't like the small spindle and small chuck but as they say, "It is what it is!"


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## jwmay

Yeah I'm pretty sure my beloved Grizzly lathe is rusting away inside an unheated machine shed, having not been run since two years before I sold it. The good news is that that machine will make someone very happy in thirty years when they find its practically brand new except for the rust.


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## RJSakowski

jwmay said:


> Where did that go? I think you and me are the only people on Earth that had something other than an Atlas lathe, and kept the Atlas. Lol


If Atlas/Craftsman counts, count me in.


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## RJSakowski

LX Kid said:


> You may be right.  Looking at his finished "spheres" they don't look like round balls.  The raw stock has to be threaded in order to make the cut.  I "think" by using the compound it will cause the threaded hole to move from the desired 90 degree.  Seems you have to use cross slide adjustments to make a round ball.
> 
> Update:  I just reviewed the video again and he "is" turning the cross slide and not the compound.  I wonder what degree he ground his tool at???  Could be a two facet grind on the tool.


The balls will be spherical as long as the cutter rotation axis intersects the spindle axis.  The center of the ball will be at that intersection.  It appears to me that the cutter is ground to a simple bevel.   This would give it an elliptical cutting edge.  

A variation on this has been made by a number of forum members using a boring head.  The advantage of that is that it gives fine control of the ball diameter.  A few years back, there were some boring heads being sold on e-bay at ridiculously low prices and there was a rush to scoop them up.


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## LX Kid

LX Kid said:


> Just did a test cut over 5.5"length.  At the chuck my mic is telling me it's cutting deeper by about.0035" at the chuck than at the tailstock.  What if I offset the tailstock by .003" so that more material is cut at the tailstock to match the chuck measurement?    And just left it that way.  Inquiring minds want to know!


Update:  1/31/22   I moved the tailstock towards the back by about 1/32", didn't think to use dial gage, and did a test cut of 5" bar stock.  I now have .0005" - .001" difference between the chuck and the tailstock.  I think I'll just leave it alone!  For what it's worth I've been getting really decent cuts and attribute it to making the cross slide and compound gibs tight.  Tightening, not locking, the cross slide lock for cutting really cuts down on vibration as well.  Machine is really quiet after specing out the gears and their adjustment as well as using clear chain lube on the gears.


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## LX Kid

Still not satisfied with the chuck runout.  This morning I rechecked my chuck runout and it was ".008"!!!   So I removed the chuck from the back plate and resurfaced the back plate again.  I am showing .001" - .0015" after tap knocking alignment of the three mounting bolts.  I then realigned the tailstock to the chuck, as I mentioned above, about offsetting it by about 1/32" which was not such a good idea after all.  Doing a test cut on a 5" round bar stock, I'm getting .0005" - .001" difference at chuck to tailstock.  I had been trying to compensate chuck runout by offsetting the tailstock and didn't work so well.


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## LX Kid

LX Kid said:


> Added a pointer to my cross slide hand dial.  Not very accurate but it almost looks important!  LoL


Ha Ha Ha!  No one caught it that I added the pointer to the carriage travel instead of the cross slide!  You guys have to do a better job of keeping me strait.  LoL


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## LX Kid

I always hated the small dial on the cross slide.  I found a larger dial in the junk box on a 3/8" cross slide shaft. Don't know what it fits but I made a 5/16" bushing to use it on the 6" lathe. I left the smaller old dial on as a spacer and added a speed handle that was on the same shaft as already mentioned. Worked out great! I can now read the dial easily and set the zero to match the old one so I could use either.

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## wa5cab

FWIW, the final version of the Atlas 12" (came out in either 1966 or 67) has has much larger dials than the 9", 10" or early 12".  To swap them takes a few parts in addition to the dials themselves.  So check the two parts lists.  I don;t know what it would take to fit them to the 6", though.


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## LX Kid

After making a shaft adapter bushing, and drilling thru it, I used a tiny ball bearing below the set screw that secures it to the shaft.  I also used a woodruff key to secure the speed handle as well the shaft nut.  Seems to work quite well, "so far."


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