# Lathe wiring help needed.



## Ski (Oct 18, 2014)

Hello, I am almost done with this 13" South Bend,1978 model. It came to me with a Marathon Z118 single phase motor wired for 220 volts. It was wired with no drum switch using the 3 phase cutler hammer magnetic switch. I want to add a drum switch and have a Furnas R44. Does anyone have a schematic that a electrically challenged individual can use to wire it up wire by wire? I have enclosed some info I was able to download on the motor and I will add pics of the drum and magnetic switch earlt tomorrow. I looked back and found info on it but it seems this motor has like 8 wires. 9 actually with one not being used ( P2) . Thanks ahead. Ski


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## JimDawson (Oct 18, 2014)

I think this is what you want.


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## Ski (Oct 18, 2014)

Thank you Jim, I still have some concerns with wiring the magnetic switch but was going to ask when I put a picture of it up. I am not sure how to wire that since it is a 3 phase switch used for single phase. Could it be as simple as just using 2 terminals instead of 3? I also need to make sure It has the correct heaters in the switch. I am trying to make sure it works as it should. Ski


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## JimDawson (Oct 18, 2014)

If the mag switch is just to provide an ON/OFF / E-STOP function then, yes, you would just two of the poles.  But before I get too deep here a picture would be better so I don't stick my foot in my mouth.


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## Ski (Oct 18, 2014)

That would be pretty much it. I was hoping I would be able to use the drum switch as the on/off for the most part. The magnetic switch is mounted on the back of the machine and I was going to leave it there so grandkids can't see it. Not that they run around the shop unsupervised! We had a lot of fun with the grandson and the "blue" spot (switch) on the DVR. I will post a picture as soon as I can. Thanks again


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## Ski (Oct 18, 2014)

Here are a couple pics of the Magnetic switch. I hope that is the correct name for it. Ski


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## JimDawson (Oct 19, 2014)

Thanks for the pics, now I know what you are working with.

The proper name for that device is Motor Starter or also known as Magnetic Starter (Mag Starter).  It consists of a Contactor (heavy power relay) and a Thermal Overload Relay, what the heaters are connected to, and in this case, an internal start/stop switch.  It is uncommon to use the thermal overload on a single phase motor.  If used, you would need to make sure the heaters are sized properly for the motor current.  It looks like the installed N27's are rated for 6.44 amps.

You would use terminals L1 and L2 for the incoming power, and terminals T1 and T2 to the drum switch.  By putting a normally closed switch in series with the stop button on the motor starter and have an E-Stop button near the drum switch.

When using a 3 phase starter in a single phase motor circuit, it is common to connect T2 to L3 and then connect the out going lead to T3, rather than T2.

If I were setting this up, I would use a remote push button station connected to the mag starter with Start Button and E-Stop button in a convenient location, on or near the headstock, and use the drum switch for only FOR/REV.


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## John Hasler (Oct 19, 2014)

You could also rig the drum switch to drop out the contactor whenever it passes through the stop position.  Then the motor will stop if you accidently throw it directly from forward to reverse instead of continuing to run forward.  With the starter switching the supply there is no need for the drum switch to interrupt L1 so that contact is free.

As the motor appears to have internal protection I'd just ignore the heaters in the starter.


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## Ski (Oct 19, 2014)

Ok,If I am understanding you correctly, I need to scrounge a Estop button and a on/off switch? or just a Estop button which is normally closed ? Would you have a pic of what you mean? Thanks guys !


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## JimDawson (Oct 19, 2014)

Ski,  now that John and I have you completely confused, I'll try to clear that up.

First, you don't NEED the mag starter in the circuit at all, everything you want to do can be done with the drum switch.  FOR/OFF/REV

Since you have the mag starter, you MAY use it to add a little safety to the system, by adding an E-Stop button.

If you are going to add an E-Stop button, then you may as well add a Start button while you're at it.

Something like this is what I have in mind.




The mag starter is already wired up to accept this kind of a switch system, there are 3 wires to connect.

You don't have to buy the entire assembly as you see it.  Your local hardware store will have a suitable box.  The switches are about $12 each.  You could do a little scrounging and maybe come up with one from an old piece of industrial equipment.

Let us know what way you want to go, and we'll help you with the wiring.


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## uncle harry (Oct 19, 2014)

JimDawson said:


> Ski,  now that John and I have you completely confused, I'll try to clear that up.
> 
> First, you don't NEED the mag starter in the circuit at all, everything you want to do can be done with the drum switch.  FOR/OFF/REV
> 
> ...




I agree with your suggestion for the remote start & safety.  I have sent a private message offering a free used start/stop NEMA enclosure to my fellow "Badger" member.


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## Ski (Oct 19, 2014)

I like the idea of an emergency stop. How would this work in conjunction with the mag switch? Use green start switch to start machine and then use Drum switch for ON/Off in either forward or reverse? If power drops to building/machine the mag switch drops out and would have to be reset? If Emergency stop is used ,reset it and go? Also what specs as far as the switch are important for this motor, as far as amps/volts ? You Gents are not confusing me ,you are educating me and I am grateful for your help. Ski


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## JimDawson (Oct 19, 2014)

This is the standard 3 wire motor start circuit.  The E-Stop is what's known as a Maintained switch.  Once pushed, it locks in the OFF position and drops out the mag starter.  You have to twist to unlock, then you have to push the Start button to energize the motor starter again.  In order to use this, you would remove the wires from the existing Start/Stop buttons on the mag starter, and wire this in it's place.

All standard industrial push buttons are rated for this use.  You are not switching the motor with the push buttons, only the coil in the contactor.  The contactor is switching the motor current.

EDIT:  There is also a way to wire this to give you a Jog function when the E-Stop is pushed in.


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## uncle harry (Oct 19, 2014)

Ski said:


> I like the idea of an emergency stop. How would this work in conjunction with the mag switch? Use green start switch to start machine and then use Drum switch for ON/Off in either forward or reverse? If power drops to building/machine the mag switch drops out and would have to be reset? If Emergency stop is used ,reset it and go? Also what specs as far as the switch are important for this motor, as far as amps/volts ? You Gents are not confusing me ,you are educating me and I am grateful for your help. Ski



The start switch & the remote start switch are wired in parallel & the stop switch & remote E-stop switch are wired in series.  The motor start contactor remains started after initiating & only disconnects if the stop switch or remote E-stop switch are pressed. The FWD/REV switch connects power to the motor only if the motor starter is activated.  The advantage of a remote start & E-stop station is easy machine control from the same location as the reversing switch.


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## Ski (Oct 19, 2014)

Ok Guys, I will wait tp post anything furter until I recieve the start/emergency switch from Uncle Harry and then get it mounted next to the  Drum switch. I put a pic in of the switch as it is now. I have to scounge some wire and a few other minor things as well. Thanks to everyone helping. Ski


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## uncle harry (Oct 19, 2014)

Hi,

As long as I am sending the switch box, I can include some 16 AWG MTW stranded individual wire.  I have lots of red for 120 "hot" control, White for neutral & probably some 16 AWG green for grounding purposes.  If the coil is rated 220 VAC black should be used.  I'd hate to waste all that air space in a USPS box so I'll 'scrounge' some wire as packing material. I'm assuming that your motor is wired for 220.  I'd also suggest that your electrician provide a neutral for the control & other 120 VAC accessories like a light etc.

For added confusion, the nice feature of the E-stop is that if you E-stop the lathe safety relay it remains safe should a Grand child fool around with the push buttons at the back of the lathe; it wont start because of the detent in the E-stop.


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## Ski (Oct 23, 2014)

Hello again ,I received a switch and some wire and other parts from Uncle Harry. The switch has several parts but I got that figured out. The stop is a NC and Start is a NO. Seems it is rated for 10amp. If this will work ,all I will need to do is source a box for it.  I am also posting a Wiring diagram from Uncle Harry that shows how to use these switches. It seems I will have to combine it with Jims. I want to get Jims input here as well since both Jim and uncle Harry have contributed.  I believe the upper part of Uncle Harrys schematic applies since I do not have a neutral. Also unsure of what the 120vac coming in and what 1FU means? I added a close up of the magnetic switch as well. Ski


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## JimDawson (Oct 23, 2014)

Here is the best diagram I could find

Ignore L3 and T3 since you are operating on single phase, T1 and T2 will connect to the reversing switch as L1 and L2

You just disconnect the wires going to the existing Start/Stop switch, and connect the new remote switch in their place.
M is the existing contactor, the M in the circle is the coil in the contactor.  It is already connected to L2 through the O/L and the coil (M).
The M below the start switch is the auxiliary contact, labeled 2 and 3 on the contactor.  3 is already connected to one side of the coil.





Wiring like this will operate the contactor.  The O/L terminals are already connected to the output terminals.

FU1 = Fuse 1.  

I'll be around if you need more info.


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