# Coolant Pump



## Earl (Jan 27, 2013)

I am looking for a source for a coolant pump for my lathe.   I would like to build a muzzle flush system for my South Bend Heavy 10.  There is a ton of info about muzzle flush systems on the net.   There is even one article with a part number for a MSC motor / pump combination.   That one is around 600 bucks!  Since I will be using a water soluble coolant,  I do not need a high pressure pump.   I am thinking that a pump that moved 2 - 3 gpm with about 40 psi would do the trick.   I spend several hours searching the net for one - no luck.   Does anyone have any recommendations?   I have looked at the Little Giant system and that may be a possibility.   Does anyone have one?


Thanks,

Earl


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## jpfabricator (Jan 27, 2013)

You mite try looking at an electric fuel pump for automobils. The pressure and flow are around the specs you mentioned, and the lower price would more than justify a 12 volt electric supply.


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## darkzero (Jan 28, 2013)

Would a fountain pump work?

https://fountainmountain.com/products.php?al=sm-medpumps

http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/703/mini


LMS sells application specific pump/tank units for $200-$250, pretty pricey though.
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_focus.php?Focus=Coolant

The Little Giant does seem like a good deal though.

Here's one from Enco on sale for $150.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=296-2060&PMPXNO=952170&PARTPG=INLMK3

Another one:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=296-2030&PMPXNO=951849&PARTPG=INLMK3

"Scratch n dent"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Gallon-1...895?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c3cdd3bf


I have two coolant pump/tanks, one came with my lathe & the other with the mill. I have no plans on using them yet but I'm not ready to sell. The Precision Matthews machines are fairly popular so you might be able to find some willing to sell their unit that they don't use. Maybe try posting a wanted ad?


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## ScrapMetal (Jan 28, 2013)

This one looks interesting but it's rated at 80 gph at 2 psi - https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=2-1224&catname=water   Better yet, take a look at these waste oil transfer pumps -  https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?catname=water&byKeyword=yes&search=waste oil transfer pump   A little more expensive but maybe more appropriate?  There are a number of other pumps to look through as well.  Maybe you can find one suitable?  (FYI - I have dealt with this company a number of times and so far have had a good experience.)

-Ron


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## Tony Wells (Jan 28, 2013)

This is not a machine shop supplier, but I have bought a lot of equipment from this outfit. Back in the design/manufacture of water filtration equipment.

http://www.usabluebook.com/

They have a large hard-cover catalog, but also online listings for their stock. Might find a pump suitable there. They have probably 100 different types and sizes.


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## Syaminab (Jan 28, 2013)

There are some small pumps build for shower heaters under $100.00 they feature that you dont need to wire it to the machine, they will automatically start when you open the valve. They have sustancial flow.


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## Earl (Jan 28, 2013)

Thank you all for your suggestions.  I had previously looked at several of the suggested solutions prior to the original post.   I have looked at most of the surplus outlets except for the one that Tony mentioned.   I think that perhaps a fuel pump might be a solution if I can find a transformer to build a power supply with.  I would like to keep the cost of the pump down below the $400 dollar mark.

Thanks again for all the help.

Earl


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## Earl (Jan 29, 2013)

I have decided to go with a carbonator pump.  I already have a half horse motor and coupling and the pump itself is less than 75 dollars.   I talked to a fellow that has a flush system and that is what he used.  Thanks again.

Earl


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## ScrapMetal (Jan 30, 2013)

Sounds good Earl.  I'd like to see a couple pictures of your setup when you get it together.

Thanks,

-Ron


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## Ibedayank (Jan 30, 2013)

one point you guys are forgetting what is the coolant?

pumps made for water will not last pumping petroleum based coolants

A pump made to use with a parts washer will and can be set right inside the coolant storage tank/bucket

Adding a filter inline  is a good idea external mounts used for cars are good for this as the filters are cheap and easy to get
it will help your CF last alot longer before needing to change it out


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## GK1918 (Jan 30, 2013)

Just wondering, I would think I wouldnt need  pressure/ just a flow or a lazy stream so a Napa
fuel pump the one around 3  4 lbs or a windshield washer container built in pump and both will run off
a battery charger.  And while talking about coolants most I read are water based.  So what is so wrong
using RV (pink) antifreeze or even regular antifreeze.  Its oilly to the touch and wont freeze?? and is
cheap and is designed to be pumped and doesnt cause rust at least in engine blocks.  RV stuff is like
two bucks a gallon, I think ill try it first, because when in rv water tanks for winter and summer comes
the tanks are filled with water and its not toxic, manely because there is a shop supervisor here and is
a shop cat.            nothing to lose if it dont work i can always use it.


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## Earl (Jan 30, 2013)

The coolant that I will be using is Rustlick (don't remember the number) diluted 5:1 with distilled water. The pump is brass. If I used oil instead of the water based coolant, I would use a cast iron pump but the water based coolant is hard on cast iron.

The current chambering process is to oil up the reamer, run it in about .100, stop the lathe, clean the chips from the reamer, clean the chips from the chamber, dip the reamer, squirt some cutting fluid in the chamber, go in another .100, repeat. When you get farther into the chamber, you cut down to .050 and then finally to .020 until you get to your finished depth. The reasoning behind this is to keep any chips from building up and catching between the reamer and the chamber. (These are Benchrest Barrels used in competition) I didn't invent this process, I learned it from a couple of top gunsmiths that are world class shooters.

With the flush system, you merely take the pressure off the reamer and let the chips flush out and resume cutting. You still stop to let the chips flush every 100 thou or so but you don't have to remove and clean the reamer. 

High pressure is required as there is very little clearance between the bore and the reamer bushing. Piloted reamers are used. Pilot bushings sets are .0002 apart in size. A busing is selected that just barely fits in the barrel bore. I am told that Pacific Tool has reamer pilots that have three "flats" ground on them for oil clearance. I will talk to Dave Kiff about that next time I order something from Pacific.

The other component is a rotary coupler to get the coolant into the muzzle end of the barrel. Greg Tannel (Gre-Tan Rifles) sells a rotary coupler that works very well (according to Greg )
I haven't used one yet. The alternative is a Duff-Norton rotary union. Very expensive. 

One problem with using oil that I have heard from a couple other folks is that such high pressure is required to get the oil past the reamer pilot, that sometimes the pressure blows the coupler off the end of the barrel. That would leave a heck of a mess. Better to have that happen with water based coolant than with cutting oil.

The pressure will be regulated by a bypass path from the high pressure side to the return tank.


Finally, the other folks that I have talked to about this project have suggested a 10 micron home water filter be inserted in the high pressure side of the system. One of the folks I talked with has one in a transparent case and said that after about 200 barrels, the filter is hardly discolored and the pressure is the same as the first day he used it.


I think that I have described this system as best I can. It will be several weeks before I get the parts and the time to complete this project. I will post some pictures at that time.

Earl


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## Earl (Jan 30, 2013)

One thing that I forgot to mention is that this is a hobby, not a business.    I only chamber barrels for myself.  I go thru about  10 or so barrels for my 4 (soon to be 5) competition rifles per year. My shooting sponsor (my wife) treats me pretty well and this project is for fun and something to talk about with my shooting buddies out at the range.   This project definately goes into the "want" category,  not the "need" category.    Saving a few hours per year is never going to result in a cost justification.    

Earl


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## rdhem2 (May 12, 2013)

If you check out the Projects in Metal site you will find a portable pump project I made for my own use.  The administrator over there ask that I not give it to anyone else for a while to promote his site.  But if you happen to find it, oh well.  Do not know how the performance would be in a closed system like barrel flushing as the pump is a parts washer pump and I have only used it to flood parts and cutters.  Keep the      *         SWARF     *      a fly'in!


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## Jimsehr (May 12, 2013)

I think all you need is a swamp cooler pump and you can get one at Lowes for $16 bucks.
jimsehr


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## Syaminab (May 13, 2013)

Hey, I just fixed my ex wife washing machine, replaced the water pump with a new one...$15.00 dolars, lots of flow, all sealed plastic components....runs on 115 -127 volts. Could also be an option.

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GK1918 said:


> Just wondering, I would think I wouldnt need  pressure/ just a flow or a lazy stream so a Napa
> fuel pump the one around 3  4 lbs or a windshield washer container built in pump and both will run off
> a battery charger.  And while talking about coolants most I read are water based.  So what is so wrong
> using RV (pink) antifreeze or even regular antifreeze.  Its oilly to the touch and wont freeze?? and is
> ...



I like the Idea of antifreeze, but, how about guides and spindle oil? Would it turn into "icecream" like when gaskets blow on engines and oil and antifreeze mix? Would I be able to skim it? How about disposal of the glycol. I love the Idea for cnc machines.


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