# Found this old South Bend lathe and it followed me home



## olddude (Jan 11, 2022)

I was over at a friends house over the weekend and he likes old stuff and he knew I like old stuff and he gave me this old lathe in an old wooden box. When I looked at it I knew it was a lathe but just couldn't tell what kind it was because of so much dirt, dust, grease and grime. I loaded it up and carted it home and after a day of cleaning I could finally see what it was. Now my old Atlas has a new bunk mate. Can someone tell me a little about it. From what I have come up with it's prolly 1943/1944. There seems to be a few pieces missing like the draw bar for the collet holder and I'm not sure what all else. It only had 1) 4 jaw chuck and a backing plate. I see a steady and follower rest. It also has a taper attachment but I'm not sure if it is complete. I see a carriage stop with a dial indicator also a lantern tool post with only one tool bar and a few other odds and ends. 

I was wondering by looking at the pictures if you can tell me what parts are missing and also would like to know how do you clean the sliding parts without ruining something in the process. All I used on my old Atlas was WD 40 and light steel wool but it was not as rough as this old girl. It did clean up a little but the dials are pretty badly stained. Also the cross feed slide is really tight. I loosened the ways but it is still hard to move. I know I need to get some kind of manual for it just gotta figure out where.


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## DavidR8 (Jan 11, 2022)

Sweet!
Taper attachment, follow and steady rest to boot... wow!


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## Winegrower (Jan 11, 2022)

Is there a tailstock?   I don't see it if there is.


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## Steve-F (Jan 11, 2022)

Gear box!!!!


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## Firstram (Jan 11, 2022)

Sweet project!


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## lordbeezer (Jan 11, 2022)

That’s a great deal you got there. Except for being a navy instead of army lathe. Kidding of course.


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## brino (Jan 11, 2022)

@olddude ,

According to the Southbend serial number list here:
http://www.wswells.com/sn/sn_db.html
1943 would be correct.

Since you have the catalog number, you should be able to find it in an old catalog here:
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1617&tab=3

For learning a bunch about these lathes checkout the Southbend book "How to run a Lathe":
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=17726
(there are several versions available)

Also, if you want to spend the money ($25) you can get a PDF download copy of the original "serial number card" that will confirm when/where/who it shipped to, and with what (if any) options:
https://www.grizzly.com/products/south-bend-lathe-serial-card
(Grizzly bought Southbend)

Welcome to the Southbend owners club!

Brian


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## dirty tools (Jan 11, 2022)

Contact 
cs@southbendlathe.com
you will need the serial numbers


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## woodchucker (Jan 11, 2022)

nice, 4 ft bed.. the tailstock is the only thing missing. 

I would just take it all apart.

I boiled my parts in TSP and water. it was better than sanding , or paint stripping. It cleaned the oil out of the cast iron too.
Then I would put it in a large tub of evapo rust... The evapo rust will help get rid of the rust.  and the tsp will keep the evapo rust from failing due to oil.

Then I would wash it down again, and give it a WD40 bath to prevent rust.
Once you are ready to paint, I would use mineral spirits to clean off the WD40. Then prime /paint, or just paint.
Most of the rust should have been cleaned by the evapo rust, but you are going to have to use some elbow grease to finish it.
I would use scotch brite and wd40, or before painting mineral spirits and scotch brite.  nothing wrong with steel wool, but the small fibers tend to get where you don't want them.

I use steel wool for polishing metal on the lathe though.


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## lordbeezer (Jan 11, 2022)

Electrolysis bath has worked for me many times.


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## SLK001 (Jan 11, 2022)

These things will follow you home like this, if you don't fend them off properly.  A 3/4" diameter stick usually works for me.  Send me your address and I will bring my stick and run it off for you.  I guarantee that you won't have to worry about that lathe again!


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## woodchucker (Jan 11, 2022)

lordbeezer said:


> Electrolysis bath has worked for me many times.


yea, but it produces hyrdrogen bubbles, best done outside...


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## wachuko (Jan 11, 2022)

Man… I still want one of those…


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## markba633csi (Jan 11, 2022)

Heck that thing doesn't need any cleaning- I'd use it as is!  Cool score, your friend got any more of those? 
-M


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## NC Rick (Jan 11, 2022)

Congratulations!


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## Kevin T (Jan 11, 2022)

Nice score! The taper attachment looks complete per your OP. I would try to retrace where the thing came from and get the tailstock if possible. With the war provinance I personally wouldn't repaint because it looks so good and complete as is...but that's me.


#TEAMOLDPAINT


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## MikeInOr (Jan 11, 2022)

olddude said:


> Found this old South Bend lathe and it followed me home​



Wow you are SO lucky!  When I got my South Bend 13 I had to drag it home kicking and screaming... it was no small feat!


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jan 11, 2022)

markba633csi said:


> Heck that thing doesn't need any cleaning- I'd use it as is!  Cool score, your friend got any more of those?
> -M


agree 100%, doesn't look tatty and it has a nice patina. Plus there's some history there for sure! Would be a good idea to replace the spindle felts/ springs and check out anything that slides or rotates. Felts get hard and oil passages get blocked, especially if it's been sitting for a while.

You really did well there!


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## olddude (Jan 12, 2022)

Wow, I got more response from this than I've gotten out of the past 10 post that I've put up in in years. Almost to much to take in all at once.

 I ordered a couple books yesterday on Amazon. The how to run a lathe....the care and operation of a screw cutting lathe. How to run a lathe, for the beginner. And also, a guide to renovating the South Bend9" model A/B and C plus model 10K. I'm sure there will be some more stuff bought before this is over.

Thanks for all the response I'm sure I'll be back with more questions as this goes on. I guess I should mention this because I'm one who actually uses the tools they buy. I was born with this fatal flaw of the need for more tools. Also, one of my biggest regrets in life was not taking that job as machinist apprentice that an old guy offered me back in the early 70's. He had a machine shop in the back of a hardware store it was just him with a couple employees and a dream to start with. The last I heard there were 50 people working there and is now a multi-million dollar operation. I had dreams of my own back then but I have always had a love for taking a piece of rock hard steel and turning it into something useful. 

I have to use what I buy now because of some my decisions I've made along the way and what I really want is a little larger machine that I can do a little heavier work with. My plan is now to probably sell this one and my Atlas to help fund something a little larger. Which makes me wonder if I should even spend the time doing a lot of renovation to this right now but rather leave that to someone else who enjoys that type stuff more.


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## olddude (Jan 12, 2022)

Winegrower said:


> Is there a tailstock?   I don't see it if there is.


Yes, it is when we unloaded it off the truck one of the guys laid it on the floor and I picked it up and set it on one of my work benches in another room. I didn't think about it when I snaped the pics.


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## Kevin T (Jan 12, 2022)

olddude said:


> Yes, it is when we unloaded it off the truck one of the guys laid it on the floor and I picked it up and set it on one of my work benches in another room. I didn't think about it when I snaped the pics.


You're all set! Good score on the books. There is a South Bend booklet called "How to keep your lathe in trim" that you might want too to dial it in upon re-assembly. It online for download too from The Vintage Machinery website





__





						South Bend Lathe Works - Publication Reprints | VintageMachinery.org
					





					vintagemachinery.org


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## olddude (Jan 12, 2022)

lordbeezer said:


> That’s a great deal you got there. Except for being a navy instead of army lathe. Kidding of course.


Now wait, I'm and old Navy man and kinda like that Anchor stamped into that old iron like that. I guess I should note that even though my friend did give it to me that don't mean it was free. Lord only knows what it's going to cost me when he calls in the marker on that one. A guy gave me my Atlas but a couple weeks later happened to come by and asked what I was going to do with my 20' box racing trailer. I had made the mistake of telling him that I didn't need it anymore when he bought the lathe to me. The next thing I knew he was going down the driveway with a trailer a trailer I paid $5500.00 for and then spent 3 months of my life turning it into a comfortable sleeper that we could use as a camper and haul our dirt bikes to the track on the weekends. I don't even want to think about what I spent building that thing and I damn sure hope my wife never finds out how much I think I did squeeze a couple hundred bucks extra out of him before he left.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jan 12, 2022)

I'd still go through the SB and check the felts/ oilers, even if you're going to sell it later on to fund an upgrade. For one, you might need it to make stuff for the new lathe, but also it'll let you tell the next owner that it's in ship shape and good to go. Tell you what though, if you have space, I'd consider keeping this one - taper attachment, full set of steadies, stuff like that is hard to get together for reasonable money. I traded a Buck set tru 3 jaw for a follow rest for my SB wide 9 and I was very happy with the trade!


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## olddude (Jan 12, 2022)

SLK001 said:


> These things will follow you home like this, if you don't fend them off properly.  A 3/4" diameter stick usually works for me.  Send me your address and I will bring my stick and run it off for you.  I guarantee that you won't have to worry about that lathe again!


Be warned...............When I was a young lad my mama would at times have to run me around the yard with a big ol hickory branch like she was swatting flies and I learned some pretty fancy footwork and I mastered the duck and weave maneuver pretty well so eat your wheaties before you stop by.


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## olddude (Jan 12, 2022)

mattthemuppet2 said:


> I'd still go through the SB and check the felts/ oilers, even if you're going to sell it later on to fund an upgrade. For one, you might need it to make stuff for the new lathe, but also it'll let you tell the next owner that it's in ship shape and good to go. Tell you what though, if you have space, I'd consider keeping this one - taper attachment, full set of steadies, stuff like that is hard to get together for reasonable money. I traded a Buck set tru 3 jaw for a follow rest for my SB wide 9 and I was very happy with the trade!


Yeah I understand about finding parts that you need for stuff like this. I paid more for a set of tool bars for my Atlas that the whole thing cost when it was new. I know I need to find belts and felts for this one and I still don't know if the motor works. I think before I go any farther with the cleaning I'll hook all that up just to see what works and what don't. I need to figure out how to wire the barrel switch it's just bolted to the gearbox cover with nothing hooked to it. hopefully that still is good. If I do decide to sell it I would want to be sure for myself that everything is in good shape.

Oh, and I have checked all of the oilers and they seem to be passing oil along pretty good. well when I fill them with machine oil it goes someplace pretty quickly.


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## woodchucker (Jan 12, 2022)

about going for a larger lathe. 
Just an opinion , so take it for what its worth. Maybe you don't repaint this.. but do use it. if you have not used a lathe you will make mistakes. Learn on this lathe, you don't have anything to lose but some rebuild time. Make your mistakes on this, it will be less costly than a big lathe.  Once you feel comfortable , jump to the next. If you get this running you will get more money for it also.  paint can go 2 ways (more money or less). If it looks like a terrible job it will lower the cost. Also some of us wonder if paint is hiding something.


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## matthewsx (Jan 12, 2022)

I'd vote for cleaning it up and into working condition. You have the exact machine the book you ordered is for so go through it and learn all the operations you can, as noted above you really don't have anything to loose.

I have an old Seneca Falls that has a taper attachment back in Michigan. Don't think I'll ever get rid of it because that's the one accessory that seems to be hardest to find for any machine. Now that I'm thinking of it my friend gave me a rusty steady rest I was going to offer for sale but now that I think of it I may have to check it for size....

Good score, you most definitely suck.

JOhn


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## woodchucker (Jan 12, 2022)

olddude said:


> Yeah I understand about finding parts that you need for stuff like this. I paid more for a set of tool bars for my Atlas that the whole thing cost when it was new. I know I need to find belts and felts for this one and I still don't know if the motor works. I think before I go any farther with the cleaning I'll hook all that up just to see what works and what don't. I need to figure out how to wire the barrel switch it's just bolted to the gearbox cover with nothing hooked to it. hopefully that still is good. If I do decide to sell it I would want to be sure for myself that everything is in good shape.
> 
> Oh, and I have checked all of the oilers and they seem to be passing oil along pretty good. well when I fill them with machine oil it goes someplace pretty quickly.


that  means your oilers may be hard and not soaking it up and metering it.
take a look at Steve's stuff. A good rebuild kit.








						South Bend Lathe 9" Model A ● Full Rebuild Package ● Manual, Felts, Oil, Grease!  | eBay
					

If you are contemplating cleaning up that old South Bend sitting in the garage, this is what you will need to get the job done. The 106 page professionally published instruction manual included with this kit is fully illustrated with almost 250 photographs plus step-by-step instructions and...



					www.ebay.com
				



look at his other stuff too, this is but one option.

BTW: DO NOT USE GREASE in the heads cone pulley. I know the rebuild kit says so, but my head overheated in back gears and locked up. I had to take it apart and clean it out.. Only use oil.. doesn't matter what oil, but oil only, it should be oiled before any back gear work (once for the day or if a production day, maybe more).  The grease just doesn't lubricate it well.


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## SLK001 (Jan 12, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> BTW: DO NOT USE GREASE in the heads cone pulley. I know the rebuild kit says so, but my head overheated in back gears and locked up. I had to take it apart and clean it out.. Only use oil.. doesn't matter what oil, but oil only, it should be oiled before any back gear work (once for the day or if a production day, maybe more).  The grease just doesn't lubricate it well.


In addition to the above, the grease for the back gears is no longer available and there is no equivalent substitute.  So do stick with the oil (your lathe is probably stamped with "OIL" there anyway.

Also, the book _HOW TO RUN A LATHE_ is not available on Amazon - it's been out of print for too long.  Your best bet for a hard copy is ebay.  There are electronic copies on the web.  The 56th edition is the last one published by South Bend.


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## olddude (Jan 13, 2022)

Thanks again guys..............First let me say, I haven't run a lathe to the point I'm an expert like some of you guys, but I have played around with them some. I had an old Cummings 7x12 mini lathe for a few years before I got my Atlas and learned a lot with that little machine. The thing is, I knew from the start that neither of those machines would do what I truly wanted to do. Oh, they would probably get most stuff done but it just takes a long time. I do think this South Bend is a far more capable machine than either of the two I have or have had. 

Woodchucker, I ordered that oiling kit from the guy you provided the link for. Have you got any ideas on the two drive belts. I saw a flat belt on e-bay for like $25.00 but didn't see a motor drive belt. Also, I was playing around with the compound trying to figure out why it was so tight and took out the little screw that holds the dial in place and you can probably figure what happened next. That little, tiny brass pin jumped out and went I don't know where, so I'll need to find one of those too. 

Also I'm going to put up a pic of a part that I can't figure out just what it is and hopefully you can tell me what I have there. I'll probably post a few pics of some of the rest of my toys in my shop if that would be ok. if so I'll get them together and post them up.


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## woodchucker (Jan 13, 2022)

olddude said:


> Thanks again guys..............First let me say, I haven't run a lathe to the point I'm an expert like some of you guys, but I have played around with them some. I had an old Cummings 7x12 mini lathe for a few years before I got my Atlas and learned a lot with that little machine. The thing is, I knew from the start that neither of those machines would do what I truly wanted to do. Oh, they would probably get most stuff done but it just takes a long time. I do think this South Bend is a far more capable machine than either of the two I have or have had.
> 
> Woodchucker, I ordered that oiling kit from the guy you provided the link for. Have you got any ideas on the two drive belts. I saw a flat belt on e-bay for like $25.00 but didn't see a motor drive belt.  *I went to a serpentine belt. I had a leather belt on, but it broke, so rather than go leather again, I went to a serpentine. I went to the auto store with an approximate size and looked through their bins.  It was nice that they let me do that. The serpentine ran for years with the teeth down, but I had to flip it over after years , it started to pull to one side. It's working fine using the back. It also grabs better.* Also, I was playing around with the compound trying to figure out why it was so tight and took out the little screw that holds the dial in place and you can probably figure what happened next. That little, tiny brass pin jumped out and went I don't know where, so I'll need to find one of those too. *That brass pin is easy enough to get. Go to McMaster car and order a small rod of brass. Just cut it off and you're good to go.  I'll see if I can go measure one for you. You can also turn one down once you get the lathe running.*






olddude said:


> Also I'm going to put up a pic of a part that I can't figure out just what it is and hopefully you can tell me what I have there. I'll probably post a few pics of some of the rest of my toys in my shop if that would be ok. if so I'll get them together and post them up. * Waiting to see the pic.*


see inline answers


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## Kevin T (Jan 13, 2022)

If you want to go old school leather belt there is at least one old world craftsman still in action. John Knox makes a great belt and is really nice to deal with. I can highly recommend.

john@leatherdrivebelts.com





__





						Custom Leather Drive Belts-Single-ply (11/64''), up to 4'' wide
					

Leather drive belts; custom, customized, custom-made, custom-length, custom-width, flat leather drive belts, machine drive belts, lathe belts, belt drives for flat pulley drives.



					leatherdrivebelts.com


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## brino (Jan 13, 2022)

olddude said:


> I'll probably post a few pics of some of the rest of my toys in my shop if that would be ok.



Ok?
Yes please, we would love to see photos of your tools, machines, projects, distractions, toys, failures, whatever you got!

Brian


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## brino (Jan 13, 2022)

.....oh and for belts......

Here's how I use an old automotive serpentine belt:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/help-on-replacing-the-belt.93684/post-866303

Some people also use link belts on the flat pulley, but I've never tried it.

Both of these options mean that you do not have to remove the spindle to install the belt.

Brian


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## olddude (Jan 13, 2022)

What about what they call a powertwist belt? They come in different lengths where you cut off what you need and twist to connect. I put one of these on my Atlas and it has done a great job.


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## olddude (Jan 13, 2022)

I moved the lathe to a bench in my little machine shop. I thought it would be easier to work on it there but I forgot that shelf on the back of it and I don't think I'll have enough room with that on there to mount the motor dive. I may have to remove that shelf which wont be much problem that is if I can find some place to put all that junk. oh, and here are some pics of some of my other junk, enjoy. I got some more stuff that I don't have pics of if you are interested. Oh, and that thing in the center of the last pic; what is it?


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## SLK001 (Jan 13, 2022)

It's part of a collet rack:


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## woodchucker (Jan 13, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> see inline answers


I just measured my brass pin, it's 0.125 mine measures 0.128 but I believe that's from mushrooming the ends. I also believe I bought 3/16 brass rod (machineable) and turned it down to 0.125.. I had to make my own thumb screws as well.  length will depend on your needs.


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## olddude (Jan 13, 2022)

Cool, I figured there was a collet set with it because I found the spindle nut and the part that goes behind the nut but the draw bar is missing. I might check with my friend to see if that stuff is still in that little shed.


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## woodchucker (Jan 13, 2022)

SLK001 said:


> It's part of a collet rack:
> 
> View attachment 392082


It looks like your collet rack also supports a taper attachment too. I don't know, but I think it does.


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## olddude (Jan 13, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> I just measured my brass pin, it's 0.125 mine measures 0.128 but I believe that's from mushrooming the ends. I also believe I bought 3/16 brass rod (machineable) and turned it down to 0.125.. I had to make my own thumb screws as well.  length will depend on your needs.


Thanks, I might have some small brass rod laying around I'll look and see what I can find if not I'll order some. The belts are the only thing that is keeping me from firing it up other that finding a wiring diagram for the barrel switch.


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## olddude (Jan 13, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> It looks like your collet rack also supports a taper attachment too. I don't know, but I think it does.


I was looking at that but the round hole is larger than the rod that is on the attachment unless there is another part that is missing also. The bottom clamp is missing also.


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## woodchucker (Jan 13, 2022)

olddude said:


> Thanks, I might have some small brass rod laying around I'll look and see what I can find if not I'll order some. The belts are the only thing that is keeping me from firing it up other that finding a wiring diagram for the barrel switch.


do you have a pick of the switch and connector block?
if you do post it. maybe someone here might have a match.


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## olddude (Jan 13, 2022)

Here is some other stuff I have picked up along the wayside. I probably ought to sell some of this stuff to fund some other junk to have laying around. This will do for a start.....


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## olddude (Jan 13, 2022)

That's the switch sitting next to that collet rack holder. And I'm not sure what you are calling the connector box.


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## Kevin T (Jan 13, 2022)

olddude said:


> I was looking at that but the round hole is larger than the rod that is on the attachment unless there is another part that is missing also. The bottom clamp is missing also.


Yes the one for the end of the taper attachment has a smaller diameter hole through it, you'll want to find it. I believe it is a babbit poured fit on the TA. They look very similar otherwise. What a fantastic stash of goodies you have!


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## SLK001 (Jan 14, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> It looks like your collet rack also supports a taper attachment too. I don't know, but I think it does.



That big hole holds a large eyelet that holds the hand wheel closer tube assembly.  It does look like a taper attachment anchor piece, but the two parts are not the same.


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## Brento (Jan 14, 2022)

Very lucky on finding the lathe with the steady  and follower. Mine didnt have them so i had to buy a casting kit to make one. She is a beaut!


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## SLK001 (Jan 14, 2022)

olddude said:


> I probably ought to sell some of this stuff to fund some other junk to have laying around.



SELL???  THAT'S BLASPHEMY!


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## olddude (Jan 14, 2022)

Maybe so but the sides of my little building are starting to bulge outwards. It doesn't take long to fill up a 32x40 shed. Especially with this 8x8x8 powder coat oven I built a few years back.


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## Brento (Jan 14, 2022)

olddude said:


> Maybe so but the sides of my little building are starting to bulge outwards. It doesn't take long to fill up a 32x40 shed. Especially with this 8x8x8 powder coat oven I built a few years back.


Nice  to know we have a powder coater in the family


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## Kevin T (Jan 14, 2022)

olddude said:


> Maybe so but the sides of my little building are starting to bulge outwards. It doesn't take long to fill up a 32x40 shed. Especially with this 8x8x8 powder coat oven I built a few years back.



I wish you were my neighbor!


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## olddude (Jan 14, 2022)

Kevin T said:


> I wish you were my neighbor!


We are neighbors, just not very close neighbors. Come to think of it we are about as far away from each other as anybody in the US is. All the way from one coast to the other and then beyond.


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## olddude (Jan 14, 2022)

Brento said:


> Nice  to know we have a powder coater in the family


I built that oven 25 years ago when I was in a much larger shop that had 3 phase power in it. I lost the lease on that building because the owner sold the property. It sat in storage for over ten years until I got this building finished. Now, I wish I had sold it because I could never make any money using that big oven because it uses so much juice running on single phase power. I started to convert it over to propane but now propane is so high I might as well use electric.

When I built it, we were building T-tops and other aluminum structures for boats then powder coat them to what color a customer might want. Once I lost the lease on that property, I never could find anything else available in the area to move to with the room I needed for the price I could afford. I moved to a smaller place and the oven stayed in storage there until I built this place. I thought about getting 3 phase run out here but they wanted $35,000 to make it happen and that was out of the question. So now it's sitting here taking up a quarter of the shop floor attracting dust. It is a nice conservation piece though. Everybody that comes in wants to know what that big steel box is.

I did build another one that I can do small loads in. It's about 48" high, 42" wide and 30" deep and I can get most of what I need to coat in that one. I built it modular where I could add another heater pan then build a larger cover for it if it ever got to where I needed something larger. So far, it's done everything I need it to do.


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## olddude (Jan 15, 2022)

Yesterday evening I started taking some of the parts off for a good cleaning and maybe some paint. I got the taper attachment off easy enough but had trouble with the compound rest not wanting to come off the cross slide. I removed the two set screws and from what I saw on a u-tube video once they were removed it should just pop out. I didn't want to get rough with it so I just left it on the cross slide for now. 

The main thing I was worried about was that the cross slide was really tight, and you had to use two hands to turn the feed handle. It first I just thought the gibs/gibbs were too tight, but I loosened all the set screws to where I could wiggle the slide and it was still tight. I took the slide completely off the saddle to where I could see the lead screw. Everything looked ok but it was still very tight. I removed the handle thinking I would be able to remove the whole thing but that is far as I got. I was thinking that the dial would pop off, but it would not come off. I can turn the dial but that's about it.

 I wanted to see if the motor would start but I tried wiring that switch every way I could think of and never did get anything out of it. I'm looking for some kind of wiring diagram, but I seem to be looking in the wrong places. I should be getting that rebuild kit soon and that is supposed to have a book with it explaining how to disassemble everything, so I guess I'll just wait until then. I'm thinking now that I will just take it all apart and give the whole thing a good paint job while I'm at it, that is if I can get it apart.


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## Kevin T (Jan 15, 2022)

olddude said:


> The main thing I was worried about was that the cross slide was really tight, and you had to use two hands to turn the feed handle. It first I just thought the gibs/gibbs were too tight, but I loosened all the set screws to where I could wiggle the slide and it was still tight. I took the slide completely off the saddle to where I could see the lead screw. Everything looked ok but it was still very tight. I removed the handle thinking I would be able to remove the whole thing but that is far as I got. I was thinking that the dial would pop off, but it would not come off. I can turn the dial but that's about it.


If the setup is the same as a 16"...Did you loosen the top bolt where you put oil on the far side of compound? That holds the nut for the leadscrew. Maybe it's binding there?


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## woodchucker (Jan 15, 2022)

olddude said:


> Yesterday evening I started taking some of the parts off for a good cleaning and maybe some paint. I got the taper attachment off easy enough but had trouble with the compound rest not wanting to come off the cross slide. I removed the two set screws and from what I saw on a u-tube video once they were removed it should just pop out. I didn't want to get rough with it so I just left it on the cross slide for now.
> 
> The main thing I was worried about was that the cross slide was really tight, and you had to use two hands to turn the feed handle. It first I just thought the gibs/gibbs were too tight, but I loosened all the set screws to where I could wiggle the slide and it was still tight. I took the slide completely off the saddle to where I could see the lead screw. Everything looked ok but it was still very tight. I removed the handle thinking I would be able to remove the whole thing but that is far as I got. I was thinking that the dial would pop off, but it would not come off. I can turn the dial but that's about it.
> 
> I wanted to see if the motor would start but I tried wiring that switch every way I could think of and never did get anything out of it. I'm looking for some kind of wiring diagram, but I seem to be looking in the wrong places. I should be getting that rebuild kit soon and that is supposed to have a book with it explaining how to disassemble everything, so I guess I'll just wait until then. I'm thinking now that I will just take it all apart and give the whole thing a good paint job while I'm at it, that is if I can get it apart.


you need to remove the gib, back all the screws out and remove the gib. Sounds like you have left it in, and only backed out 2 of the screws. There are 4 or 6 if I remember.


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## olddude (Jan 15, 2022)

Nawh, the brass nut for the cross slide is held on by a screw in the top of the slide itself. When I removed the slide that nut is still attached to the cross slide. The lead screw looks good with what I can see that is. I has to be bound up where it enters the slide at the dial. There is only about 2/3 inches of the screw you cant see at that point as it enters the slide.


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## olddude (Jan 15, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> you need to remove the gib, back all the screws out and remove the gib. Sounds like you have left it in, and only backed out 2 of the screws. There are 4 or 6 if I remember.


I have removed the slide, it's laying on the bench and I can see most of the lead screw it's bound up where it enters the cross slide.


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## woodchucker (Jan 15, 2022)

olddude said:


> I have removed the slide, it's laying on the bench and I can see most of the lead screw it's bound up where it enters the cross slide.


time to unscrew the lead screw housing. if you don't have the proper pin spanner, find a rod, or pin that will fit in the hole, and use a plumbers wrench to turn it.  back it out and turn the handle to release it from the brass nut.


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## Kevin T (Jan 15, 2022)

olddude said:


> I have removed the slide, it's laying on the bench and I can see most of the lead screw it's bound up where it enters the cross slide.


Sounds like you are making progress. If you are not used to adding pictures to your posts a big project like this is a good time to get going with that. They can really help the process.


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## olddude (Jan 15, 2022)

Dumb question......What hole? There is only one brass nut that I see and that is laying on the bench with the cross slide. I haven't been able to get the dial off yet, I would think it would just pop off when the handle is removed.


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## olddude (Jan 15, 2022)

Kevin T said:


> Sounds like you are making progress. If you are not used to adding pictures to your posts a big project like this is a good time to get going with that. They can really help the process.


Thanks Kevin, I know how to post pics my problem is that I don't have internet in the shop and I'm at home. The screw where it goes through the saddle is a very close fit and is where it is tight. When I quit last night I just left it after I saw the dial was going to be a problem. I didn't want to take the neanderthal approach and try to free it with vice grips. I assume the hole wood chucker is talking about is under the dial.

I should have said where it goes through the carriage assy rather that through the saddle.


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## LucknowKen (Jan 15, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> It looks like your collet rack also supports a taper attachment too. I don't know, but I think it does.


He has the bracket for both. Total score all round.


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## olddude (Jan 16, 2022)

Well after about a hour or so of looking and trying to talk the screw bushing off I finally went into my tool room and came out with a small pipe wrench and crying,  as I did it locked the pipe wrench onto the bushing and started to pull. Oh, it hurt so bad because I could see it was putting some marks on the surface but kept on applying more pressure on the wrench until finally with one big heave ho it finally broke free. Once it broke free it came on out with little problem and once out, I couldn't really see why it would be so tight. There was no rust on it like I figured I would find and the surface was fairly shiny. I reamed out the hole with a small bristle brush and found there was a bunch of tiny pieces of chips and other debris in there. It's hard to believe that such a small amount of crud would cause the assembly to be so tight, but I reinserted the parts and it turned as free as a bird. The only thing I saw really saw wrong besides a good cleaning and oiling was something had gotten ahold of the big brass nut at some time in the past. The threads at one end were a little buggered up and there was a small crack starting on the flat side of the nut, it's kind of hard to see and probably would never be any problems but I know it's there and it bothers me, so I'll keep an eye out for a spare as it would be easy enough to change if needed.

Someone must have put a cheap Earl Shibe paint job on it at some time in its life because after taking a closer look I could see paint in places where none should be, and it would scrape off pretty easily with my fingernail, so I took a putty knife and went to work on a couple pieces and it took no time to get then paint free. I'm thinking I'll tape the shiny parts and put the smaller pieces in my glass bead machine and clean them up.

I got everything off except the head and the gearbox and I think I'll stop there for now and clean and paint everything else before I Tackel that part. what I have laying out now will keep me busy for a few days. I'll need to do quite a bit of thinking before I jump on taking the head and gearbox apart. the only real wear I see, other than a little on the lead screw and nut was a little wear on the main drive gear as noted in the pic. Also, I posted a better pic of that switch someone asked me about. The motor is a 1/4 hp Century motor and the switch is a CH.


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## woodchucker (Jan 16, 2022)

olddude said:


> Well after about a hour or so of looking and trying to talk the screw bushing off I finally went into my tool room and came out with a small pipe wrench and crying,  as I did it locked the pipe wrench onto the bushing and started to pull. Oh, it hurt so bad because I could see it was putting some marks on the surface but kept on applying more pressure on the wrench until finally with one big heave ho it finally broke free. Once it broke free it came on out with little problem and once out, I couldn't really see why it would be so tight. There was no rust on it like I figured I would find and the surface was fairly shiny. I reamed out the hole with a small bristle brush and found there was a bunch of tiny pieces of chips and other debris in there. It's hard to believe that such a small amount of crud would cause the assembly to be so tight, but I reinserted the parts and it turned as free as a bird. The only thing I saw really saw wrong besides a good cleaning and oiling was something had gotten ahold of the big brass nut at some time in the past. The threads at one end were a little buggered up and there was a small crack starting on the flat side of the nut, it's kind of hard to see and probably would never be any problems but I know it's there and it bothers me, so I'll keep an eye out for a spare as it would be easy enough to change if needed.
> 
> Someone must have put a cheap Earl Shibe paint job on it at some time in its life because after taking a closer look I could see paint in places where none should be, and it would scrape off pretty easily with my fingernail, so I took a putty knife and went to work on a couple pieces and it took no time to get then paint free. I'm thinking I'll tape the shiny parts and put the smaller pieces in my glass bead machine and clean them up.
> 
> I got everything off except the head and the gearbox and I think I'll stop there for now and clean and paint everything else before I Tackel that part. what I have laying out now will keep me busy for a few days. I'll need to do quite a bit of thinking before I jump on taking the head and gearbox apart. the only real wear I see, other than a little on the lead screw and nut was a little wear on the main drive gear as noted in the pic. Also, I posted a better pic of that switch someone asked me about. The motor is a 1/4 hp Century motor and the switch is a CH.


Here's a pic of my drum switch.
it looks the same as yours. My power - main is on the right, my motor is on the left as you can see the red line.. which must be my reverse.



edit: not sure this will be of any value, but here is my restore in pics: 



https://imgur.com/a/6OT4a


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## SLK001 (Jan 16, 2022)

olddude said:


> The only thing I saw really saw wrong besides a good cleaning and oiling was something had gotten a hold of the big brass nut at some time in the past.



If it is original to the lathe, the nut is bronze, not brass.


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## olddude (Jan 16, 2022)

Woodchucker, thanks for the pic. Unless some more parts for the switch are missing mine is not quite the same as yours. I have one long cord with a 110v cord on it. The cord is connected where it comes out of the motor and where the motor wires and the cord connect there is another shorter cord pigtailed together. The short cord I think goes to the switch but there are only three wires in that cord. When I got it there were no wires connected to the switch but that short cord is just the right length to hook to it. There is a green wire with a ring terminal that looks like it goes to one of the switch mount screws (one of those mount screws was loose like the wire had been removed from there). The other two wires, a black and a white had the ends striped back like they went to the terminal board on the switch. One of the center terminals was loose the other two were tight. There were no screws in any of the outer terminals. That probably makes no sense at all but it's the best way I know to explain it.


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## Kevin T (Jan 16, 2022)

Mine had an old mechanical circuit breaker called a safety switch mounted to the back of the pedestal. Main power went to there first, then to the drum switch. Maybe yours was setup similar. Mine was Navy use also.



Side by side with a replacement switch I found...
My drum switch as wired with the safety switch cut. The wires on the left were coming in from it. One the right going out to the motor.


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## olddude (Jan 16, 2022)

SLK001 said:


> If it is original to the lathe, the nut is bronze, not brass.


Thanks, I have heard it referred to as brass and bronze, but I think you are right.


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## Kevin T (Jan 16, 2022)

Not sure if it will help but I was going to run the same setup until I decided to go with an RPC that had a circuit breaker built in. Here is what the unit looks like.


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## olddude (Jan 16, 2022)

Kevin T said:


> Mine had an old mechanical circuit breaker called a safety switch mounted to the back of the pedestal. Main power went to there first, then to the drum switch. Maybe yours was setup similar. Mine was Navy use also.
> 
> View attachment 392468
> 
> ...


Thanks, I was thinking that maybe there was some kind of disconnect switch that may have been in-between the motor and the drum switch but if so it was nowhere to be found. Let me ask though, are your wires pigtailed at the motor? Thinking about it though if there was some kind of disconnect, I would think that it would be between the plug and the motor. When I go back out, I'll snap a pic of what wiring I see. I need to replace all the wiring anyway so I may as well take that maze of mess where it is pigtailed together apart to see what wires are connected to what.

Is that pic of the two switches a before and after pic?


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## olddude (Jan 16, 2022)

Kevin T said:


> Not sure if it will help but I was going to run the same setup until I decided to go with an RPC that had a circuit breaker built in. Here is what the unit looks like.
> 
> View attachment 392471
> 
> ...


I have seen those disconnects like that and I may even have one laying around someplace. I put something similar to that on the phase converter I built for my old Bickford super service drill press I have. So, your lathe is three phase.


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## olddude (Jan 16, 2022)

Woodchucker, Looking at the switch wiring you said the main power wire is on the left and the motor was on the right. Your power wire is a 4 conductor wire?


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## woodchucker (Jan 16, 2022)

olddude said:


> Woodchucker, Looking at the switch wiring you said the main power wire is on the left and the motor was on the right. Your power wire is a 4 conductor wire?


No I didn't. you got it reversed.

edit: btw, mine is single phase.


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## Kevin T (Jan 16, 2022)

olddude said:


> I have seen those disconnects like that and I may even have one laying around someplace. I put something similar to that on the phase converter I built for my old Bickford super service drill press I have. So, your lathe is three phase.


Yes mine is 3 phase


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## olddude (Jan 17, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> No I didn't. you got it reversed.
> 
> edit: btw, mine is single phase.


OPPS!! dyslexia, ADD,+ PTSD will do it to ya. 

I pulled that ball of wires right at the motor apart last night and can see that there are 4 wires coming out of the motor. None of them are marked. I made a crude drawing, ( please don't laugh ) of how they wired it.  Two of the motor legs connect to the black wire on the cord with the plug. The other two connect to the black wire in the short cord. The white wires coming out of both cords are connected which makes a nice big loop. The short cord is the exact length from the motor connections to where the switch is. As I said there were no screws in the outside strip on the switch just three screws in the center three.


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## woodchucker (Jan 17, 2022)

a motor plate would be better. somewhere on that motor is a wiring diagram.


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## olddude (Jan 17, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> a motor plate would be better. somewhere on that motor is a wiring diagram.


Nawh, I've looked all over. The motor is probably the one that came with the machine and the wire is a little stiff and I'm afraid to pull on them much. It's a Century motor, and it appears to be in pretty good shape. I can see the brushes and there is plenty of brush material left. Where the wires were spliced you can tell it just didn't happen a short time ago and looks like it could have been done from the factory.


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## woodchucker (Jan 17, 2022)

tried replying from my phone but it wouldn't..

That's a repulsion motor if it has brushes.
I don't know a thing about them.

the tag says both repulsion and induction  repulsion for start, induction for run... not even going to try on this one.
Mark may be able to help.


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## olddude (Jan 17, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> tried replying from my phone but it wouldn't..
> 
> That's a repulsion motor if it has brushes.
> I don't know a thing about them.
> ...


I found an old Century motor book telling how to wire it for 220/110. According to that the motor is wired for 110v now which makes sense because of the 110v cord that is wired into the motor. I don't have any way of telling for sure what the 4 legs are numbered because there are no # tags on the leads. I'm just assuming that they are connected correctly because it's been wired this way for a long, long time. I'm just having trouble figuring out how it worked the way the cords are wired.


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## olddude (Jan 18, 2022)

I've been sitting here for a while thinking and wondering if I even need a reverse on this lathe anyway or if it ever had a reverse on it to begin with. In one of the Century books I looked at it said there was a reversing, repulsion induction motor where the motor could be reversed using a # 791 drum switch but I didn't see any direction for wiring it. Someone out there must have this same motor on their lathe just gotta find out who.


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## olddude (Jan 20, 2022)

Hey Woodchucker, I've got this thing pretty much all apart and was wondering how you did your number plates when you soaked the gear box in TSP and Evapo-rust? Where did you find your Evapo-rust, What I have seen is pretty expensive for a gal and I'm thinking it would take quite a bit to cover the whole bed. I've been looking for some kind of container that it would fit tightly in with no luck. I have an old truck tool box I was going to soak all the parts in at once but it would probably take 25 gal to cover the bed. 

I went out and picked up 3 gal's of kerosene at $5.22 a gal to use to get the bulk of the dirt, grime, grease off the parts and that worked pretty good and it seems to do a pretty good job of keeping them from flash rust. I'm thinking that I'll wait and take the gear box and headstock apart one at a time once the other parts are done to help keep that stuff together. I've just about run out of tabletop space for all this stuff.


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## Kevin T (Jan 20, 2022)

olddude said:


> Hey Woodchucker, I've got this thing pretty much all apart and was wondering how you did your number plates when you soaked the gear box in TSP and Evapo-rust? Where did you find your Evapo-rust, What I have seen is pretty expensive for a gal and I'm thinking it would take quite a bit to cover the whole bed. I've been looking for some kind of container that it would fit tightly in with no luck. I have an old truck tool box I was going to soak all the parts in at once but it would probably take 25 gal to cover the bed.
> 
> I went out and picked up 3 gal's of kerosene at $5.22 a gal to use to get the bulk of the dirt, grime, grease off the parts and that worked pretty good and it seems to do a pretty good job of keeping them from flash rust. I'm thinking that I'll wait and take the gear box and headstock apart one at a time once the other parts are done to help keep that stuff together. I've just about run out of tabletop space for all this stuff.


It's not the cheapest stuff in the world but you can re-use it a bunch of times so it represents good value. There are techniques to large parts like you can put evaporust soaked towels or similar on large surfaces and it will do the job.


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## olddude (Jan 22, 2022)

Well I don't know if I'll ever get this thing back together but 1 of the big three parts is all apart and somewhat cleaned up. I have the apron casting soaking in TSP now but I need to go out and get another tank of gas to clean the rest of the other parts. Everything looked pretty god except the clutch knob. It has a crack on the inside bearing surface that run all the way across. I didn't take a pic but I will when I get back out there.

I rigged up a soak tank out of one of those little 30lb oil drums by cutting the top out. I had an old turkey fryer that I loaned to someone that came back with a hole in the bottom of the pot but I kept the burner and that small drum fit on it very nicely. I put the top that I cut out in the bottom of the drum to help keep the heat from the burner off the parts. I put the two bed legs in first for my parts backet to sit on and I still had room to hang a few larger parts in there also. Once the parts were in the drum ten gallons of the TSP solution filled the drum just enough to cover the basket. 
I ran out of gas before the first batch was done but I just left them in the tank overnight, hopefully they will be alright. I didn't have time to get many pics but I'll post what I have for now. The third and forth pic are the parts after a kerosene bath the last one is a batch after they came out of the TSP. That stuff works pretty good cleaning the parts and what paint that is left scrapes off fairly easy after only a couple hours in the boiling bath.


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## olddude (Jan 23, 2022)

I mis-spoke yesterday when I said that the clutch knob had a crack in it. It was the tail stock screw nut that had the crack I guess sniffing to many TSP fumes will clog ya brain. I got half the bed cleaned and I flipped it around to the other end before I left last night so that end could get a head start for today. I'll have to wire brush the bed to get all the old paint off because I can't get it in my sand blast cabinet but most of it will come off by just scrubbing it with a Brisiel brush so I should be able to get it paint free without to much trouble. Most of the gears that I have come across have cleaned up pretty good by soaking them in kerosene and then hitting them with a small wire brush. There are a few stains in places that are a little hard to deal with but I'm not to worried about them because they are just stains and not pitting or other damage. This is a slow process; it probably wouldn't be so bad if I had room for all these parts and it's hard to keep them all together. I'm thinking I'll paint and put back together what I have torn down now then move on to the headstock, gear box, chucks and other pieces later.


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## Kevin T (Jan 23, 2022)

olddude said:


> This is a slow process; it probably wouldn't be so bad if I had room for all these parts and it's hard to keep them all together. I'm thinking I'll paint and put back together what I have torn down now then move on to the headstock, gear box, chucks and other pieces later.



The guys that take everything apart at once are impressive to me. I couldn't do it either because of space limitations but I wasn't tempted because I wasn't painting mine. I just wanted it to work so I could start using it.


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## olddude (Jan 23, 2022)

Well I'm probably sell this one once I get it done and wanted to make sure everything is ok before I did. I really haven't found much wrong with it yet other than the cracked tail stock screw nut. There's very little wear that I've seen so far. I have several different coating kits that I can use to paint it with and I think I'm going with a product called Carbothane 134 HG. It's a two-part polyurethane based industrial paint with good chemical resistance, it's a very hard durable, chip resistant finish. It also has stain resistant properties and easy to clean and doesn't need a primer is a direct on metal finish. The best part is I have several of these kits that are just the right color.


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## woodchucker (Jan 23, 2022)

olddude said:


> Hey Woodchucker, I've got this thing pretty much all apart and was wondering how you did your number plates when you soaked the gear box in TSP and Evapo-rust? Where did you find your Evapo-rust, What I have seen is pretty expensive for a gal and I'm thinking it would take quite a bit to cover the whole bed. I've been looking for some kind of container that it would fit tightly in with no luck. I have an old truck tool box I was going to soak all the parts in at once but it would probably take 25 gal to cover the bed.
> 
> I went out and picked up 3 gal's of kerosene at $5.22 a gal to use to get the bulk of the dirt, grime, grease off the parts and that worked pretty good and it seems to do a pretty good job of keeping them from flash rust. I'm thinking that I'll wait and take the gear box and headstock apart one at a time once the other parts are done to help keep that stuff together. I've just about run out of tabletop space for all this stuff.


sorry, for some reason notifications are failing for me. I am not seeing many messages to me.

I used TSP on my gear box. I did not use evapo rust on it. Instead I soaked it either in mineral spirits or wd 40. I think I used MS for that unit. as it will prevent flash rust as well.

I get my evapo rust at tractor supply. last time it was $17 a gal. Right now, I need another gal, my old gal finally did it's last piece and won't work anymore.  It did quite a lot of metal.


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## woodchucker (Jan 23, 2022)

I'm not sure if you are sand blasting your carriage, cross slide, apron???? you don't want to unless you protect all the machined surfaces. if you blast the machined surfaces she's done. it will be too rough for use.

You should be able to source that tailstock nut on ebay, or make one.


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## woodchucker (Jan 23, 2022)

wow, evapo rust at tractor supply, it was 17.99 last time I bought it, now 24.99...   I really wonder if all this inflation isn't some companies just taking advantage of things. And it's becoming self feeding.


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## woodchucker (Jan 23, 2022)

I looked at the first post that made you think I dunked it in evaporust. yea, I wasn't clear. 
I did the TSP.
I did the MS or WD40


I WOULD do evapo rust (at that time I didn't) The reason I had plenty of MS and WD from trying to degrease it. When I found the TSP  was doing an excellent job I just hit it with either of the others.   For the mill, and surface grinder I wound up using citri strip and evapo rust.
I did not like the mess for the citristrip, the boiling and tsp was way easier, better. But it was winter and I had no way to boil it indoors. It needs to be done outside.

So how is the boiling and TSP working? That's great having a 55 gallon drum. I now have one, didn't way back then.The burner from the fryer .... excellent. I'll have to steal that idea.


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## SLK001 (Jan 23, 2022)

olddude said:


> I went out and picked up 3 gal's of kerosene at $5.22 a gal to use to get the bulk of the dirt...



Next time, just get diesel instead of kerosene - it's significantly cheaper and is basically the same as kerosene.


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## olddude (Jan 24, 2022)

Well it's not really a 55-gal drum it's much smaller than that. It's what we used to call a 30LB drum that gear oil came in. It's 30" tall and around 18" wide. Using the smaller drum, it doesn't take as much solution, and you still can get a lot of parts in there at the same time. All I have left to disassemble is the headstock and the gear box and as I said before I'll hold off on them until I get the rest cleaned and painted. It takes a lot of room to lay all this stuff out and once it's painted, I don't want it laying around all over the place. Stuff like this gets lost really easy.

Oh, and yes, the TSP works really well It takes just about everything off and what don't come off in the wash gets knocked off easily with a small wire brush. In fact, it even takes most of the paint off. I only blasted a few places on some of the pieces that the paint really was stuck on. I'm not using a really course material in the blast cabinet it's almost like a powder, I believe it's like 220 grit aluminum oxide.


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## olddude (Feb 2, 2022)

Been busy for a few days and wanted to get back with what's been going on. I got in a bit of a hurry and decided to put my Apron back together to make room so I could tear down the gear box. I thought that two days was enough time for the paint to be tough enough to work with. It's been cold here and the shop cools down a little at night which means the paint takes longer to cure. I was trying to be really careful but while putting it back together the paint got a little soiled and left some marks in places. I may be able to touch it up a bit but if that don't work, I guess I'll just have to tear it down and start over.

I started on the gear box and right away I ran in to a small problem. A lock pin on one of the gear shafts would not come out. I think someone had tried to get it out and tried to drive it out the wrong way. I banged on it for a while and decided that it probably won't going to come out the easy way so I ground a flat on the collar in hopes to remove some of the burrs and be able to tell which end to drive out. On one side I could see where the pin was but on the other side there is no sign of the pin anywhere. I ground a little more and still no trace of the pin could be found so I guess I'll have to drill the pin out. The side I can see appears to be the big end, so it isn't coming out that way. 

I guess now I'm wondering where the best place is to get parts like this. I called Grizzley the other day and waited on the phone for 45 minutes and still didn't get anyone on the phone. This is like everything else I try to fix I spend more time on the net trying to find the stuff needed than it takes to fix what I'm working on. I checked e-bay and I found one of those nuts for the tailstock and the guy wanted $30 for it plus $11.00 for shipping. I'm wondering now if I wouldn't be better off just parting this thing out rather than trying to go through the the trouble and time trying to find the few things that I need to replace. Is there any other place besides Grizzley and e-bay that may have parts for these things?


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## woodchucker (Feb 2, 2022)

olddude said:


> Been busy for a few days and wanted to get back with what's been going on. I got in a bit of a hurry and decided to put my Apron back together to make room so I could tear down the gear box. I thought that two days was enough time for the paint to be tough enough to work with. It's been cold here and the shop cools down a little at night which means the paint takes longer to cure. I was trying to be really careful but while putting it back together the paint got a little soiled and left some marks in places. I may be able to touch it up a bit but if that don't work, I guess I'll just have to tear it down and start over.
> 
> I started on the gear box and right away I ran in to a small problem. A lock pin on one of the gear shafts would not come out. I think someone had tried to get it out and tried to drive it out the wrong way. I banged on it for a while and decided that it probably won't going to come out the easy way so I ground a flat on the collar in hopes to remove some of the burrs and be able to tell which end to drive out. On one side I could see where the pin was but on the other side there is no sign of the pin anywhere. I ground a little more and still no trace of the pin could be found so I guess I'll have to drill the pin out. The side I can see appears to be the big end, so it isn't coming out that way.
> 
> I guess now I'm wondering where the best place is to get parts like this. I called Grizzley the other day and waited on the phone for 45 minutes and still didn't get anyone on the phone. This is like everything else I try to fix I spend more time on the net trying to find the stuff needed than it takes to fix what I'm working on. I checked e-bay and I found one of those nuts for the tailstock and the guy wanted $30 for it plus $11.00 for shipping. I'm wondering now if I wouldn't be better off just parting this thing out rather than trying to go through the the trouble and time trying to find the few things that I need to replace. Is there any other place besides Grizzley and e-bay that may have parts for these things?


ebay.. if you can find a part that matches, buy it.

some people do make some after market parts. There were guys making parts when I rebuilt mine, I bought  a threading dial, it's been great.
Some people make gears...
Some acme screws and nuts.


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