# Heres my new lathe



## Vince_O

As I stated in the newbe section, Ive never used one of these, meaning a tool to cut metal, unless you call my small drill press a metal cutting tool. Any way my friends that have lathe, real big things that are 3 phase machines, said that I need to keep my eye open for a small lathe. Ive been to auctions over the years, see how long Ive been looking for a deal, but stuff was always out of reach for me. One day I came home and saw an add on CL for this, 50 bucks, I went and got it. 

Now its up to you all to help me out on using this. This is the only tool I have for it, the cover is missing and people give me mixed ideas on needing change gears. Im still making room in the shop for it, have a place that I want to put it, but theres an eng there right now waiting on a part to install in a garden tractor. Im hoping by Thanksgiving I will have it mounted and running. 

Can someone please tell me what tool I ave and what it is used for. Also I know I cant make my own tooling from blanks, but is there something I can but cheap, like under 100 bucks to start to learn with. Im thinking Im going to break something, well I have visions of it any way. Ive been watching a lot of Tubal Cain vidios on you tube for the basics. Many are over my head but something like the facing vid Ill watch a few times a week to get it in my head. 

Thanks Vince


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## Vince_O

Ok had a little trouble up loading pics


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## davidh

you stole it.  what a cutie.  you have all but the motor to start making swarf.  1/3 hp- 1800 rpm would do it i think.  and a step pulley exactly like the one on the lathe.  go git um . . .  make round things rounder


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## 7HC

Vince_O said:


> Can someone please tell me what tool I ave and what it is used for. Also I know I cant make my own tooling from blanks, but is there something I can but cheap, like under 100 bucks to start to learn with. Im thinking Im going to break something, well I have visions of it any way. Ive been watching a lot of Tubal Cain vidios on you tube for the basics. Many are over my head but something like the facing vid Ill watch a few times a week to get it in my head.
> 
> Thanks Vince



Here's a set of inexpensive HSS pre-sharpened tool bits: http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2250

You can either use them as they are, or keep them untouched so that you can copy them when grinding your own from HSS blanks.


M


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## Rbeckett

Dog gone it!!! You stole that machine... An atlas/clausing for 50 bucks is pretty close to the steal of the century.  Now a little motor work and a belt and you will be off and running before you know it.  The link that 7HC gave you is an excelent source of tooling and how to dvds too.  If you have some time get a copy of "Running the Lathe" by southbend.  It is as old as we are but has a ton of pertinent and current info that is a great start in the hobby.  Go get e,...
Bob


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## Hawkeye

Hi, Vince.

Talk about hitting the ground running. You start out your 'career' with a tool gloat and feed us pictures right off the bat. 

When you're looking for a motor, try to get one that shows how to change rotation direction on the connection diagram. There are several threads here that show how to connect the switch to reverse the motor when needed. Comes in handy down the road. The 1800 RPM motor David mentioned may say 1725 on the label - same thing. If you happen to find a 1/2 HP motor before you find a 1/3, go for it.

If you don't already have one, keep your eye open for a bench grinder. A 6" will do nicely. Tubalcain has a good video on tool grinding. It's not that hard to do, with a bit of patience and a pot of water.


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## Vince_O

Guys I DO have the motor and other pully, no belt. What I dont have is a cover, am I going to catch my hand in it if I dont have a cover? Im looking on ebay for them, I think too if I had the cover it would give me my speed ratios too? 

I thought 50 bucks was cheap too, :rofl: but I got it! It came out of a tool room at a plant up the road. The guy bought it at the company auction and was going to learn how to use it. He sprayed it down with wd40 and stuck it in the barn, lost intrest. It was covered in hard dust and all I did was spary it down with brake cleaner and oiled everything up. 

So that cutter tool in the holder what is it used for? 

And Ive got my books coming so Ill be trying to read my way into this. 

And a friend traded me a brand new sterrit dail indactor and another friend helped me out with some other measuring stuff.


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## Vince_O

And  7HC  do I need that tool holder to use the bits you posted. 

TIA


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## 7HC

Vince_O said:


> And  7HC  do I need that tool holder to use the bits you posted.
> 
> TIA



The link was for 1/4" square HSS bits, which depending on the size of your tool holder will either be a perfect fit or may need some packing.
Standard/common sizes are 1/4", 3/8", 5/16", and 1/2".  
Blanks and pre-sharpened bits are available from many sources, not just the LMS.


M


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## 12bolts

Vince_O said:


> This is the only tool I have for it, the cover is missing and people give me mixed ideas on needing change gears.



Vince, dont worry about having only one tool. Thats enough to get you making big stuff smaller and rounder. The cover is no big deal, if you are the only operator and you remain aware of where and what you are doing and bystanders keep their distance, should all be good. Change gears a required for using screwcutting and automatic feed. You can still crank the handles manually to move the tool on the job.
Its a bit dated but the information available in southbends tutorial "how to run a lathe" is still very pertinent and will give you lots of basic info about setting up your tool height, workholding, what change gears are for and how they are used. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=53

Cheers Phil


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## Hawkeye

Vince,

Covers can be made out of sheet metal or plastic. ABS is very easy to work with and chemically weld together. Take a look at http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/8748-QC-gear-box , post #15.


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## Vince_O

Ok guys well as soon as I get it up and running Ill post some pics, of what I dont know, :lmao: Im sure it will be bad, but I gota start somewhare !

Thanks Guys!


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## rock_breaker

There is a copy of "Manual of Lathe Operation and Machinists Tables" by Engineering Department, Atlas Press Company, 1822 North Pilcher St., Kalamazoo, Michigan U.S.A..  on a shelf above my Clausing 100 MKIII, I believe this manual is similar to the Southbend publication. It gets used quite often and is an exceptional reference. I have a shop text book that I also rely on "Machineshop Operations and Setups" 4th edition. Authors are Lascoe, Nelson and Porter printed by American Technical Society, Chicago 60637. It also gets frequent use. I have found good information in the "Workshop Practice Seies"  Special Interest Model Books, P. O. Box 327, Poo;e, Dorset. BH15 2RG England, try Amozon.com. There is an overwhelming amount of information available just study it and make your choice.  

You have a tool holder on your lathe that has a High Speed Cutting bit in it. There are numerous shapes for various applications, once the bit is sharp (use a grinder with a fine wheel - heep it cool) place it at the mid point of the work piece your are going to cut. Sharp means it can scratch or cut you if not handled carefully. Rigidity in the mounting set up is important as well, keeping the cutting action close to the tool holder support should help the quality of the work. Before turning the power on turning the workpiece a full turn or two by hand is a good safety practice.  

Other than references to books I have not said anything different than the contributions in the other threads, just be safe when trying something new. I prefer light cuts and slow feeds in new situations. 

Have a good day and enjoy your hobby.

Ray


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## Vince_O

Thanks Ray


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## Metalmann

Vince_O said:


> As I stated in the newbe section, Ive never used one of these, meaning a tool to cut metal, unless you call my small drill press a metal cutting tool. Any way my friends that have lathe, real big things that are 3 phase machines, said that I need to keep my eye open for a small lathe. Ive been to auctions over the years, see how long Ive been looking for a deal, but stuff was always out of reach for me. One day I came home and saw an add on CL for this, 50 bucks, I went and got it.
> 
> Now its up to you all to help me out on using this. This is the only tool I have for it, the cover is missing and people give me mixed ideas on needing change gears. Im still making room in the shop for it, have a place that I want to put it, but theres an eng there right now waiting on a part to install in a garden tractor. Im hoping by Thanksgiving I will have it mounted and running.
> 
> Can someone please tell me what tool I ave and what it is used for. Also I know I cant make my own tooling from blanks, but is there something I can but cheap, like under 100 bucks to start to learn with. Im thinking Im going to break something, well I have visions of it any way. Ive been watching a lot of Tubal Cain vidios on you tube for the basics. Many are over my head but something like the facing vid Ill watch a few times a week to get it in my head.
> 
> Thanks Vince





You must be talking about the rocker tool post, right?

Nowadays, the quick change toolpost is better, but the rockers have their place, also. In some situations, only a rocker will fit.

I learned my trade using the old rocker tool holders. (Most were made by Armstrong). Had to learn all the angles quickly. Knowing those grinding angles, actually got me a few jobs when I was starting out. Just like grinding drill bits by eye.

Lots of info Online about the angles necessary, and I haven't seen any bad advice yet.


BTW, you should feel very guilty about the theft of that machine!


Something else, just go slow till you get the "Machinists Feel". 
I've had tons of compliments from the fairer race all these years, because I developed that feel at an early age.:thinking::lmao:


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## Vince_O

I thought about putting a piece of PVC in first to see what it fealt like.


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## 7HC

Vince_O said:


> I thought about putting a piece of PVC in first to see what it fealt like.



Use thick wall, like schedule 40 or higher, and keep it fairly short to minimise flex.  You could also use wax, as in a candle.


M


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## Kevin45

I wouldn't screw around with that style of toolpost and grinding your own bits. With the deal of the year you got on the lathe, take some of that saved up money, go to the Little Machine Shop and get a Quick Change toolpost, Holders, and all of the accessories you need to go with the lathe. I guarantee you be farther ahead and way happier. Here is the link to what you need: http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3786


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## xalky

That's a great package deal. You won't find it cheaper anywhere.


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## AR1911

+1 on the LMS kit.  But the QCTP for a Chinese 9x20. 
They make one specifically for your lathe, which may or may not be the same. 
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2486&category=-419988835
 Probably the tee-nut that fits the compound is the difference.
call or email Chris wood at LMS and he will get you fixed  up.
This is the main thing you need, and you can buy the QCTP kit for $100 from a number of places.  Tools4cheap.com had some 2nds for half that, which is what I bought.
2nd is the tailstock drill chuck, with MT2 taper on the arbor.
These are the thing you will use 90% of the time.

Later on you will want a set of change gears for $100, maybe less.
Also the boring bar set, and a steady rest.

What you have is an Atlas 618 Mk2.
The color is very close to Ford Dark Blue engine paint, available at your FLAPS

As for the cover, there are a lot more of those lathes than there are covers for them. I think i would fashion one from aluminum sheet. They only had 2 attachment points.
I have some pics of those at home

Also, you can get a PDF of the factory manual for that lathe in the files section of the Yahoo group for Atlas lathes.
Or email me and I'll send it to you.

Nice lathe at a great deal, bordering on larceny.  enjoy


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## Kevin45

AR1911 said:


> +1 on the LMS kit.  But the QCTP for a Chinese 9x20.
> They make one specifically for your lathe, which may or may not be the same.
> http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2486&category=-419988835
> Probably the tee-nut that fits the compound is the difference.
> call or email Chris wood at LMS and he will get you fixed  up.
> This is the main thing you need, and you can buy the QCTP kit for $100 from a number of places.  Tools4cheap.com had some 2nds for half that, which is what I bought.
> 2nd is the tailstock drill chuck, with MT2 taper on the arbor.
> These are the thing you will use 90% of the time.
> 
> Later on you will want a set of change gears for $100, maybe less.
> Also the boring bar set, and a steady rest.
> 
> What you have is an Atlas 618 Mk2.
> The color is very close to Ford Dark Blue engine paint, available at your FLAPS
> 
> As for the cover, there are a lot more of those lathes than there are covers for them. I think i would fashion one from aluminum sheet. They only had 2 attachment points.
> I have some pics of those at home
> 
> Also, you can get a PDF of the factory manual for that lathe in the files section of the Yahoo group for Atlas lathes.
> Or email me and I'll send it to you.
> 
> Nice lathe at a great deal, bordering on larceny.  enjoy



Along with what AR1011 stated, keep an eye out on FleaBay. Parts come up quite often and for a reasonable price. Just make sure you don't pay a lot for what you need. Parts are abundant and not made out of gold like some of the sellers think.


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## Vince_O

Man you guys are great! Only once have I been on a site where Ive gotten so much help right off. I think you guys will be stuck with me! 

The 100.00 set up I have saved in my favs from a week ago. I was wondering if I should start out with the change able tip type tool. Ive gotten mixed reviews on what I should start with. 

I have some thick pvc and I thought Id do less damage with it first. I have visions of me breaking something and it flying threw the air! Ive saved all sorts of round steel over the years and brass to use one day when I got a lathe. The bronze are thick bushings so I thought I could turn them down just to get the feel of differant materail. 

I will say that when I get parts in my hands Im starting to look at them in a differant way. Im looking how it was made. Im reading as much as I can so I can just turn the unit on and make one pass. The boys and I have cleaned out a section of the shop so I can set it up. I hope I do well at the swap meet next week to give me some playing money to get the tooling, what ever I decide to go with. 

Thanks so much Vince


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## Hawkeye

Carbide insert tools are a great thing. They also have their drawbacks when you're starting out. Carbide can't take  physical shocks like High Speed Steel (HSS) can. You will read about 'interrupted cuts' on fora like this one. That's when there are breaks in the path of the tool instead of smooth, solid metal. The tool relaxes into the space and then hits the opposite wall like Wiley Coyote. This will sometimes take the edge right off it.

Plan on getting some carbide insert tooling later on, but plan on learning with HSS. Many of us have both. Some use only their carbides (except for some specialty cuts) and others will use HSS for almost everything.

When you're ready to start cutting, play with the plastic for a bit, but get onto steel fairly soon. Plan ahead. Take light cuts. Keep your 'what if's' in mind. Turn the workpiece by hand before turning on the motor, just to see what might hit what. As long as the effluent doesn't hit the air conditioning, you're golden.


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## 7HC

Hawkeye said:


> ............Turn the workpiece by hand before turning on the motor, just to see what might hit what.



Very good advice.  If you're working close to the chuck it's surprisingly easy to have a moving part (usually a jaw) come into contact with a stationary one. It'll also make sure you didn't leave the key in the chuck (it's easily done!).


M


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## Vince_O

Mike

Funny you mention that cut. I just watched a you tube vid on that. 

I didnt get a key or the small wrench to tighten the tool in the post. So that said, I like my small fine tooth snap on 1/4 drive ratchet too much to leave it in there! :lmao: Not to mention it cost too much!

I watched some south bend movies tonight. I saw where they had a lathe running with nothing in the chuck showing the auto feed. I think Ill do this too, turn it on and watch how things work and run. 

My kids are home schooled and one said to me, "what are you doing"? I simply looked at him and said, "My homework, now go to bed"! :lmao:


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## Kevin45

The next time you order anything, invest in a couple of stones. You'll want a medium hand stone, either square or triangular shape, then you want to get a diamond impregnated stone. You will use these to dress the tips of your cutting tools from time to time. If you order a holder and then order carbide inserts, get an insert that has a very slight radius on the tip. A .010 minimum will work great. Reason being is that a cutting tool with a sharp tip with no radius will give you a crappy cut and the metal you are turning will be all furred up. With a slight radius, that same piece of material will be baby butt smooth. On a sharp carbide tip, if you hit the tip just slightly with a diamond impregnated stone, it will break the point enough to give it a couple of thou radius and a super nice cut.


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## rock_breaker

Vince,

I overlooked setting the lathe up on a bench, a well built wooden bench will do. It should have cross timbers under the table top where the lathe feet fasten to the bench. A smooth table top really helps in the chip clean-up. You may want to plan for some drawers too. Sturdy and level, again there is a lot written about lathe mounting.   

I was raised with a turret (candle stick?) tool holder like you have and have recently gotten into the carbide stuff--carbide works well on uniform cuts but it can't stand impacts. I have read somewhere that early day machinists ground their own bits using milder steels then heat treating it to cut the projct material. I go back to the turret holder when working in close conditions.

Good luck and enjoy.

Ray


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## Kevin45

Ironman said:


> Vince,
> 
> I overlooked setting the lathe up on a bench, a well built wooden bench will do. It should have cross timbers under the table top where the lathe feet fasten to the bench. A smooth table top really helps in the chip clean-up. You may want to plan for some drawers too. Sturdy and level, again there is a lot written about lathe mounting.
> 
> I was raised with a turret (candle stick?) tool holder like you have and have recently gotten into the carbide stuff--carbide works well on uniform cuts but it can't stand impacts.* I have read somewhere that early day machinists ground their own bits using milder steels then heat treating it to cut the projct material.* I go back to the turret holder when working in close conditions.
> 
> Good luck and enjoy.
> 
> Ray



 Back in the day they did do that. When I started out as a Toolmaker 30+ years ago, we used to make specialty tool-bits all of the time. This was back before we had CNC's in our department. Most of the tools were made out of 0-1 tool steel. The body of the tool was made out of 0-1 with a 10-32 threaded hole and a 1/8" pin. We could then make the tool with any shape that we needed, harden it, then mount it to the body. Other pieces were cut in maybe a .625 square piece of tool steel, then hardened. It was not unusual to have a complete drawer full of specialty cutters for the lathe. When CNC mills and lathes became commonplace, one didn't have to make special cutters as often. In the last few years, I doubt that I made one special cutter at all. But for a home machinist, it is almost a necessity to do. Any tool steel that you can harden at home will work fine. 0-1 if you have a way to quench it, or water hardening being two of the most popular for home.


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## Vince_O

Ok so I took some pics of what is a torn apart shop getting ready for the sale next week. I dont have much room so Im in the prosses of figuring out how I wana add on. Right now Im over whelmed with engines in various states, not to mention the one in the back of my sweedish pick up truck. 

I think im going to put the lathe where the black engine is. Im waiting on a friend in Iowa to make me a new drive shaft on his lathe so I can put the eng in. That will free up that corner. Also all the welding rods on the cart are getting moved into a small dorm refrigerator under the work table that the lathe is sitting on now. Im going to take out the shelves and biuld the table or bench , what ever the proper name for it would be. I have a small drill press that Ive used for some years and works well for what I do, but would like one that turned a bit slower. 

As you can see I have engines tucked everyware:whiteflag:


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## Vince_O

So heres some more questions about my lathe. First the motor, Im thinking I need one with a key way on it as it looks like it has spun before on the shaft.


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## Vince_O

Heres some stuff Ill be using the lathe for. First is clutch preasure plates. I have a guy in NC that dose them for me for 30 bucks that includes shipping. So if I do 2 sets, the lathe has paid for its self, I have 4 sets to do. 



Also have these to do. They are the cam follower in the steering box. My friends are welding them up and cutting them back down. Ive saved a few to try. They just unscrew out of the plate. 



And heres some steering rods I use to make some small pins out of with my porta band and a grinder. Now if I can learn the lathe I can make them look like stock. 



Now at the last auction I was at there was a south bend i was trying to get. I picked this thing up. Just a home made sander, maybe to dress the cutting tools? 



Like I said I hope to get rid of some stuff ~ junk to make room!


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## wa5cab

Vince,

What is the diameter of the pressure plate?

On the motor shaft question, yes.  You shouldn't try to use a keyed pulley on a flatted shaft.  Assuming that the set screw hole in the pulley is tapped through the key slot as it should be, without a key in the slot for it to bear against, the inner end of it is hanging out of the tapped hole quite a bit to get to the flat.  It will get loose fairly quickly.  For a temporary fix, you can drill and tap a new set screw hole 180 degrees around from the existing one.  A screw in that hole will stay tight longer.  But you really ought to find a motor with a key slot in the shaft.  And no, you don't need anything larger than 1/3 HP on a 6".

Robert D.


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## Vince_O

Robert

They are like 6 or 7 inches. I put one in the lathe, on the back side theres a shoulder to grab, and moved the cross feed across the diamiter and I have pleanty of travel to face it.


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## wa5cab

Vince,

OK.  Judging the pressure plate diameter from your hands I thought that it might be close.  I don't know what the absolute max swing of a MK-II is but it will only be a fraction over 6".  With the 12" Commercial it's 12-1/4".  And at that diameter, you can realistically only do facing work.

Robert D.


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## Vince_O

Well had a great day today. A friend came over who knows about working with a lathe and really tought me alot! He said the unit seems real nice and tight. Oh Im so looking forward to this! We talked about where to build the bench or table to put it on. 

Oh and he took an eng off my hands / feet! :thumbsup:


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## Jeffers

That belt sander is great for dressing up tool bits for the lathe


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## Vince_O

Hey guys Im having a hard time finding a belt for my lathe. Dose anyone have a online sorce for the belt or a size I can try to find one here local. 

TIA


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## Vince_O

Well tore out the table from the other shop and mounted it to the wall. I have the lathe just sitting on the table havent bolted it down. Any recomadation before I bolt it down?


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## pdentrem

Are you needing a drive belt for the lathe? I suggest using Power Twist belts by Fenner. It reduces vibrations and is adjustable in adding or removing links.


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## wa5cab

Level the lathe per the manual.  For that you need a precision level, not a carpenter's one.

Robert D/


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## Vince_O

Where would on get that type of level and what do they look like. 

I found a belt that Im hoping will work off Epay last night. Ill get one of my friends to fix the wiring on the on off switch, looks like I did it lol, I dont do wiring well. I talked with a friend of mine that dose CNC work and hes going to try and come up next weekend and fire it up with me. 

Gosh I cant wait to try this out!


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## RandyM

Vince_O said:


> Where would on get that type of level and what do they look like.



Vince, You can get the levels at the same link in a previous post. Here is a link to their 6".

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1846&category=1438824943

Kinda excitin', yeah.


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## wa5cab

Vince,

As you can see if you follow the link, precision levels aren't cheap.  But unfortunately, cheap levels aren't precision.  That's why I suggested borrowing one if you can.

I forgot to say earlier, first roughly level the bench or stand in both directions with the lathe not sitting on it.  For that you can use a carpenter's level.  Then the lathe needs to be leveled in both directions.  So you need a precision level at least 8" long to go across the ways.  12" would be better.  I bought mine (a 15" Starrett No. 199) on eBay for about $250.  

Leveling instructions showing the places to put the level are in the owners manual for each lathe.

You can buy machine leveling shims (square aluminum or steel with a slot from one side to the center) both individually and in assortment packs from places like McMaster.  I would start the operation with say a 1/8" shim under each corner.  You don't want to end up with only a thin shim under one corner, especially if you are bolting to a wood base.   If one corner has air under it at the start, under that corner slide shims to fill the gap.  From there on, it's sorta cut and try, although there are marks on the level vial from which you can do calculations to get close to level fairly quickly.  According to the screed at the site the link would take you to, I believe it said each mark is 0.005" per foot.  So the number of marks off level times 0.005 times the distance between the tie-down points in decimal feet would give you the shim stack required to get close.  First level it left to right.  Then front to back.  Then recheck.  

Robert D.


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## Vince_O

*OMG !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! *"jawdrop: 

This is starting to look like I just need to keep payin my buddy to face my clutch plates and make my bushings. For 300 bucks Ill dump into this, that will get me ALOT of work from him. 

I think Ill rethink this whole thing of having a lathe


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## wa5cab

If your buddy isn't going to be upset with the loss of your business, borrow his.  

Robert D.


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## Smudgemo

Vince,

Harold Hall describes in his book "Metal Lathe for Home Machinists" a process of turning a 1" x 4" long round bar and measuring for error as an acceptable alternative to the machinists level.  I'll be borrowing a level from a friend to set up my new machine, but it seems like it's worth a try to Google "setting up a lathe without a level" and see what you can find before giving up.  At a glance, it looked like quite a few possible sources.  

Alternatively, Hall's book only cost $15.  If you buy it just for the level exercise, you'll also be walked through a number of useful tool projects that build skills and progressively get more difficult.  However, my machine shop experience is fairly limited, so take this for what it's worth.  

-Ryan


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## Tony Wells

At the risk of starting a controversial discussion, I suggest that we consider that on Naval vessels, the machinery is rarely level. The main purpose of using a level on a stationary installation is to detect twist or distortion in the frame of the machine. Unless you get unacceptable taper or other issues with the lathe, just don't try to bolt it down tight to a surface that is NOT flat. It's really more of a flat issue than a level issue; it's just easier to tell if a surface is level at all points than it is truly flat.....but in a stationary surface, level is a good indicator of flat. Just use common sense.


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## Metalmann

Tony Wells said:


> At the risk of starting a controversial discussion, I suggest that we consider that on Naval vessels, the machinery is rarely level. The main purpose of using a level on a stationary installation is to detect twist or distortion in the frame of the machine. Unless you get unacceptable taper or other issues with the lathe, just don't try to bolt it down tight to a surface that is NOT flat. It's really more of a flat issue than a level issue; it's just easier to tell if a surface is level at all points than it is truly flat.....but in a stationary surface, level is a good indicator of flat. Just use common sense.





Not controversial at all, just a fact of life.


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## Vince_O

Well guys the belt came in yesterday and Im rewiring the switch today here at work and going to mount the pully on the motor. Ill do this now till I can eather get someone to cut a key way in the shaft or I can aford to get a new motor with a keyed shaft. 

I ground a pice of HHS as best I could following the tubalcain vids. Im sure its not right, or as well as you guys could do, but for my first time, it will have to do to start the learning prosses. I picked up some ailminum drops last week at the show, and in talking with the seller who ran a shop here locally for 30 plus years, he seemed to think this would be a good start for me. Also he had some plastic round stock too. Im out 5 bucks for the material, so I hope this will get me the feel of a lathe. He told me just to cut it and chuck it up and just start easy turning it down, so Ill throw his advise in the pot with everyone elses and start the trial and error prosses! 

As far as the leveling goes, Ill do the best I can with what I have. My first project will be to make some 2 inch pins for my loader bucket and lift arms. Ill need to make a slot in them to hold the clips. I watched a guy do them for my last loader and I think I can do it :lmao:, oh this will be fun! Most everything Ill do with this will be about an inch or two from the head stock so there will not be any long turning to do. What Im doing isnt that critcal in measurments, but I dont want to develop bad habits right off. I have some shim stock so Ill see what I can do. 

Thanks everyone for the input, pics of screw up to come!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Old Iron

Vince if you watch ebay close you can get a level fairly cheap, I got a 12" Lufkin for under a 100.00. The 6" go a lot cheaper.

I'm surprised no one told you that.

Paul


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## Kevin45

I never leveled my Craftsman. I build a new workbench, used 3/4" MDF and then covered that with laminate flooring. I set the lathe where I wanted it and went around and checked every pad with a .001 feeler gage. It sat flat all the way around it, so I drilled the holes and bolted it on point at a time. When I got one pad bolted down I checked the remaining three to see if they changed. They didn't so I bolted the pad directly behind the first one then checked the two on the opposite end. I then bolted the one pad on the opposite end, check the remaining pad, then bolted it. I didn't have any problem with a taper in a piece. I knew how much I had in the lathe tooling and table, I sure wasn't going to shell out a few hundred for a precision level for a lathe like that. Where I work, they don't level anything anymore. They used to years ago when they bolted things down, now they just set the mill or lathe on isolation pads to prevent vibration. If the machine had noticeable rock in it, then they might shim one corner. Other than that, set it and go.


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## wa5cab

Well, you were lucky.  I'm afraid that I would have to classify your company's attitude as one of the many reasons so much work has gone offshore.  Makers who don't care what quality work they do don't tend to stay in business.  Or, like Sears, get sued for injuring or killing someone when something they built poorly failed.

Robert D.


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