# Spindle oil cups.



## Toolgrinder (Dec 29, 2012)

My 9" SB oil cups never need oil added. What do you think is going on. How do I drain the spindle oil to replace with new?
 Thanks for your help.


Kermit


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## macrnr (Dec 29, 2012)

There is a spring loaded felt that rubs against the spindle providing lubrication. The channel between the felt and the oil cups could be clogged or the felt may be hardened. They sell a rebuild kit for South Bends that has all of the felts and springs required for the entire machine on eBay.


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## 12bolts (Dec 29, 2012)

Kermit,
Are you referring to the oilers in the front (side) of the headstock, or the ones in the top of the headstock? In either case I would expect that they are blocked with grease/grunge/old oil/dirt/hard felts, (take your pick). Dissasembly recommended.

cheers Phil


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## Toolgrinder (Dec 29, 2012)

12bolts said:


> Kermit,
> Are you referring to the oilers in the front (side) of the headstock, or the ones in the top of the headstock? In either case I would expect that they are blocked with grease/grunge/old oil/dirt/hard felts, (take your pick). Dissasembly recommended.
> 
> cheers Phil



The two cups on the front. The spindle does not run hot. I just worry about it going bad.


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## macrnr (Dec 29, 2012)

If you run the machine for any length of time and the oil level doesn't change, you have a problem.


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## Jericho (Jan 1, 2013)

macrnr said:


> If you run the machine for any length of time and the oil level doesn't change, you have a problem.



I found this curious as my lathe requires the cup away from the chuck to be refilled(3/8") regularly while the one nearest the chuck rarely drops more than 1/8" even after days of use. Removing even the smallest shim on the loose (?? theoretically)one locks down the spindle and all spindle play was within tolerance after my rebuild. I replaced the wicks and springs when I went thru for my rebuild so I'm doubting it being plugged.Maybe since I've been running it for a while I should check tightness again but even though I'm an infrequent user, it's been this way since I put it back together.


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## 4GSR (Jan 1, 2013)

I have to add a few drops of oil to each cup everytime I use my 9" SBL. It's the later model (1949) with the oil cups in the front.  The rear oil cup always has taken a few more drops of oil than the front one.

It's still using the original felt wicks and springs.  I bought a new set of felts to replace the old ones.  I'll change them out some day.  Mine is set up to use a  Poly-Groove belt, dad converted this one when I was 9 years old, 47 years ago.  No more flat leather belt!  About time to change out the belt, its getting pretty oily, last changed 30 years ago!


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## macrnr (Jan 2, 2013)

I own a 10K that was one of the last machine produced (1991), and I have to add oil to both cups on a regular basis. When I acquired the machine it was in fairly good shape, so I have not replaced the felts. It works perfectly, so there was no need. I still think that the oil cups are not there for decoration, and if the oil level does not change, there is a problem. Just my opinion.


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## mrtechnologist2u (Jan 2, 2013)

Jericho - when you redid your machine how tight did you make youe headstock?  The spec calls for between +0.001 and +0.002" vertical play in the spindle.  so if you took out too many shims you could be in a position that here is not enough clearance for a film of oil.  If the felt wicks are new and installed correctly there has to be a reason for the oil level not to drop.  The other question would be what oil are you using? (too thick?)

just my 2 cents

Happy New Year


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## 12bolts (Jan 2, 2013)

macrnr said:


> ... I still think that the oil cups are not there for decoration, ...


Got it in one. Owners manual recommends adding oil daily. And like mrtechnologist2u suggests, maybe check the oil you are using.

Cheers Phil


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## Toolgrinder (Jan 2, 2013)

This past weekend I removed both oil cups and left the oil drain. I then washed the oil holes with degreaser and left it sit for half hour. ThenI blew air into both holes. Air and oil came out of both ends of the spindle. Refiled with SO
and used the lathe for about five hrs. The bearings did not get warm, never did. The oil level  did not go down in the cups. I will go from there. Thanks for all the help.

Kermit


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## rw1 (Jan 2, 2013)

Toolgrinder said:


> This past weekend I removed both oil cups and left the oil drain. I then washed the oil holes with degreaser and left it sit for half hour. ThenI blew air into both holes. Air and oil came out of both ends of the spindle. Refiled with SO
> and used the lathe for about five hrs. The bearings did not get warm, never did. The oil level  did not go down in the cups. I will go from there. Thanks for all the help.
> 
> Kermit



In my Heavy 10 -- I totally cleaned and installed new wicks from rebuild kit.  Using fresh #10 Spindle Oil.  I filled the cups up a few days ago and run the machine maybe 1 hour as I'm still assembling Back Gear, Covers, etc.  Just making sure the bearings are not getting hot - they are running cool to me.  Have 0.001 play in rear spindle, 0.002 play in front spindle.  Hasn't used a drop either......


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## McRuff (Jan 3, 2013)

I have run South Bend 9"-10" lathes for at least 30 years now. On my 9" workshop the front bearing on my current lathe is set right and I changed the felts, cups and all about 4 years ago, i add maybe 2 drops (chuck side) after running maybe 6 hours and the rear about 3-4 drops after about the same period, the rear cup also oils the takeup bushing or bearing whatever case you have. If the spindle is not getting warm then your machine should not use much oil, the manual says to add oil daily only due to the fact it has such a small capacity (maybe a tablespoon) and the whole machine should be oiled anyway. Oil should be Mobil Velocite #10 or equivalent any thing lighter (Velocite #6) and you will use oil.


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## fastback (Jan 9, 2013)

I also have a heavy 10, mine was built in 1942. At Least something is older than me.  Anyway, when I fist got mine I did a complete tear down.  I removed the spindle and cleaned, flushed and replaced the spring loaded oilers.  My machine has no bearings the bearing material is the actual casting.  Now the oil cup feeds a well this well supplies the felt with oil that transfer the oil to the spindle.  Now on the outside edge of my casting there is a slot milled into the casting that captures excess oil and if I am correct drains it back to the well.  

Now I add spindle oil to my oilers every time I use it and have only had the level go down on the front oiler.  I reset the spindle clearance to spec and it reduced loss.  I am like others and find that there is very limited oil loss if any.  Now keep in mind that I don't use it day in and day out I have no excess heat in my spindle (I even recently bought a temperature gun to make checks).  I am hoping that what I am saying is correct, but I don't think that I have a problem with the lack of oil usage.  I know everywhere else is getting plenty of oil because I am always wiping the floor. LOL


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