# Enco 110-1340 Lathe Contactor wiring



## cboyce

I can not find anyone who has this machine, I bought it used and the control box was broke off it, can anyone help with the switches(contactors) 1-3-5-31, 2-4-6-32 and where they go? I called Enco, they can't help, they referred me to a local service shop, they can't help. There are a FW and a REV contactor and a smaller third contactor, a transformer and 2 line bars, they are all labled but I can't fiqure out where all the wires connect to TY if any one has help for me. Chris


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## jumps4

hello
the 12x36 and the 13x40 are pretty much the same machine and have the same users manuals
here it the link to the grizzly model it may help you click on the pdf manual and the wiring is on page 35
steve


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## pdentrem

Grizzly, Jet, Busy Bee, etc. They are all the same under the hood as Steve stated.

If you want to simplify, move up to a VFD and motor, that is where many of us who are, are going to be, or wish we were users of a VFD.
Pierre


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## pdentrem

Maybe these might help. The pdf is from Enco and the other is from my Jet.


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## Tony Wells

It may be basically the same as the 110-1351 also. Worth a look.


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## jumps4

on the one I sent there are 4 relays frank the one you may be talking about is for master power and is controled by the lever on the apron to start/stop the motor for forward or reverse and a jog button
steve


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## jumps4

jumps4 said:


> on the one I sent there are 3 relays frank the one you may be talking about is for master power and is controled by the lever on the apron to start/stop the motor for forward or reverse
> steve


 my link to the grizzly lathe is gone?


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## jumps4

sorry frank i screwed that all up   lol
my pdf wasnt even there
ok its there now but has nothing to do with your guestion
I need a nap:whiteflag:
steve


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## pdentrem

Froneck said:


> Hi Steve: :lmao: No problem, I was looking at the wiring diagram you sent and yes it does have 4 relays/contactors.
> I was talking about the one pdentrem sent. Seems to be something missing. It's quite confusing. The one you sent is easy thought I'd rather have a schematic not a wiring diagram.
> Frank



Which one are you referring to? The PDF from the Enco or the photo out of the Jet manual? I also have the other page for the Jet with E stop switch, I should of included that one as well.
Pierre


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## pdentrem

The power switch just supplies power to the rest of the box. The forward and reverse is controlled via the apron lever. The lever has a junky 2way switch. From here it sends power back to the box where either one or the other mag switch then supplies main power to the motor.

On the Jet picture the following are

QS1 - Main switch
TC - transformer with variable inputs and outputs 110, 220, 240 volts inputs etc
SA1 - the switch on the apron for forward/reverse
KM1 and KM2 - mag contactors
KA1 - another mag contact switch that is ALWAYS on if the main switch is on

Hope this helps a bit.
Pierre


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## pdentrem

On the Enco PDF

No label = Top right where wires R and S are going into the Main switch
No label = about center in picture is transformer with variable inputs and outputs 110, 220, 240 volts inputs etc
CS = the switch on the apron for forward/reverse
MS = mag switch shown poorly above the MS1 and MS2 mag contactors
MS1 and MS2 = mag contactors
Reset switch is the E stop
The indicator lights GL, and RL

Next the other Jet schematic
Pierre


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## pdentrem

Jet lathe with E stop switch

Main switch is not shown.
TC - transformer with variable inputs and outputs 110, 220, 240 volts inputs etc
SA1 - the switch on the apron for forward/reverse
KM1 and KM2 - mag contactors
KA1 - another mag contact switch that is ALWAYS on if the missing main switch is on
SB2 - JOG button
At the top where you see a 1 in circle beside the TC is the E stop switch.

Here is also the picture shown in the manual for the above schematic. All the wires in the box on the Jets are numbered and the ones to the apron switch are colored coded as well on my lathe.

I hope this is a help for somebody with Chinese lathes.
Pierre


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## pdentrem

What they, the builder of these lathes, need is an electrical engineer that can make a drawing that we can understand. Last year I had to service the Jet at the shop, I had a time trying to figure out what was where and how they were interlinked. I found out that the mag contactor ( KA1) that is after the main switch had burned out on one side, but getting to understand why took awhile.

If I was allowed to spend a bit more I would of put in a VFD and new motor and only kept the main switch, E stop and apron switch. Would of been cheaper after paying my time on the repair.

Sometimes throwing good money after bad is not smart. Like owning a boat!
Pierre


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## tnelso54

pdentrem said:


> What they, the builder of these lathes, need is an electrical engineer that can make a drawing that we can understand. Last year I had to service the Jet at the shop, I had a time trying to figure out what was where and how they were interlinked. I found out that the mag contactor ( KA1) that is after the main switch had burned out on one side, but getting to understand why took awhile.
> 
> If I was allowed to spend a bit more I would of put in a VFD and new motor and only kept the main switch, E stop and apron switch. Would of been cheaper after paying my time on the repair.
> 
> Sometimes throwing good money after bad is not smart. Like owning a boat!
> Pierre



did you ever get what you needed


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## tnelso54

If you need help on 1340 lathe  let me know maybe I can help.


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## pdentrem

Update
Based upon lots of pictures etc via emails back and forth, I removed the wiring diagram to prevent others following it due to it being not as factory. The original one is in the earlier postings. Last I heard he was up and running. See the later post for more info. 
Pierre


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## Jimbo

That is not correct.  I have one of these lathes and had to rewire it after a fire burnt part of the wiring.  The third relay in the box is a start up safety switch.  It operates as a latching relay and prevents startup if the apron lever is engaged when power is applied. The safety relay is engaged by a set of contacts on the apron switch which are closed in the off postion, once closed the power is fed back to the coil and it stays latched until power is cycled off. The second item that is not on the drawing is the wires that are going to A2 go thru the 31-32 contacts of the opposite relay.  These are normally closed contacts.  The idea is that if one relay is activated it is impossible to activate the other.  Case in point, if the reverse relay is engaged and someone should hit the Jog button the forward relay cannot close and short out the mains. It took along time and redraws of the original schematic to account for all the connections.

Jim


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## pdentrem

Yes I know it not as wired by the manufacture. There appears to be more issues than what was originally mentioned. 
Chris found the switch that the apron lever or one of the wires was defective. I do not know what he has done since then. I had originally sent him a copy of the wiring diagram that was the same layout as his but did not work.
I had suggested early in the thread to replace everything with a VFD, likely cheaper than paying an electrician the hrs in figuring out what goes where etc. Also I suggested finding someone in his area to help if he could. He might have by now.
Pierre


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## JacobiusWrex

I have a couple of questions about the Enco 1340.

There is a 12 lead, 3 phase, 3hp motor that has connections for 220v Starting (Wye)/Running (Delta) and 440v Starting (Wye)/Running (Delta) listed on the Motor Terminal Cover plate. None of the terminals were "landed" when we opened it. I do not know what diagram to follow when wiring this motor. (I thought that the switching between Wye and Delta was done in the control cabinet and that was how this machine came wired, but now I'm all confused.) Currently we have supplied a 480v Wye to the plug we intend to run the Enco from (under the assumption of my foreman that this machine CAN run on 480v). 

Can the Enco 1340 Lathe be connected to 480? 
It looks like there is a terminal for 440 going into the transformer in the control cabinet which we have switched the lead to from the 220v. 

*I will post lots of pictures tomorrow.*

We're probably going to need a replacement motor because I'm fairly certain this current motor is fried. 
(One fuse in the cabinet is blown, and 2 coils I think 2-5, and 7-10 do not have continuity.)


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