# Oiling points



## DamicoTileCo (Oct 16, 2013)

I have these oiling points which I have not been able to lube. How is it done and where do I get the tool to do it?


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## pipehack (Oct 16, 2013)

Sweet lathe you got there and even sweeter Norton you have. I'm a Brit bike guy. Now on to your oiling points. I have a point like that on my compound slide on my Cman 6" lathe. Take an oiling can , put the spout tip on the ball while pushing it in and squirt away. Think of it like a ball point pen in reverse. Some older craftsman ratchets have those on them also.  I clicked on your picture and it directed me to photobucket. That's how I saw your Norton.


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## DamicoTileCo (Oct 17, 2013)

Thanx. I have another '73 commando Dunstall in bad need of a resto. It has the fiberglass tank which got rotted out by the MTBE additive that was in the gas back a decade ago.
With a little luck and a ton of mulah I will have it back on the road in a year.

I tried oiling those points with my oil can only to have it make a big mess. Not sure it is getting oil in there or not.


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## PurpLev (Oct 17, 2013)

make sure that your oil can tip is larger than the ball in the oiler. Then make sure you are sitting your can spout firmly over the ball, and make a tight seal against the oiler so that oil won't sip out. pump the oiler - and the pressure should push the ball in and send oil into the oiler and not outside of it making a big mess.

I am using these oilers:


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## Kickstart (Oct 17, 2013)

Something else, if you push too hard on the ball it may not return, and that is a real PIA. There was a thead a while back about replacing them.


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## wa5cab (Oct 18, 2013)

Damico,

On the QCGB, if I were you I would replace the spring loaded ball type oilers with the straight cup type, which Atlas did a few years after yours was built.  They look like the spindle oil cups only smaller.  You can I think get them from Clausing.  You can also get them from McMaster.  You may not be able to do this on the two on the carriage.  There is a specific oil can tip made to work with these and also with the cups.  I have a photo somewhere.

Robert D.


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## DamicoTileCo (Oct 20, 2013)

wa5cab said:


> Damico,
> 
> On the QCGB, if I were you I would replace the spring loaded ball type oilers with the straight cup type, which Atlas did a few years after yours was built.  They look like the spindle oil cups only smaller.  You can I think get them from Clausing.  You can also get them from McMaster.  You may not be able to do this on the two on the carriage.  There is a specific oil can tip made to work with these and also with the cups.  I have a photo somewhere.
> 
> Robert D.



I saw the cups on McMasters. Only question is, how do you get the out. Do they press in?
Would also like to see the pic of the oil tip if you can find it.
Thanx, Guy


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## pdentrem (Oct 20, 2013)

Some use a screw and thread it into the hole and pull it out. Others can use a blade to get under the lip and do the same.
Pierre

PS avoid alcohol containing fuels. The stuff eats fiberglass tanks, even if coated.


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## Rbeckett (Oct 20, 2013)

The lube dots are press fit and fairly easy to remove if your not concerned about damaging them.  I however have an oil can I trimmed the spout on and the slipped a piece of rubber fuel line over and it helps seal the tip to the fitting and pushes the oil into the gallery.  I think I trimmed the tip on the pump type of oil can so it was just a hair smaller than the hole but could not be forced too far in and cause the ball to jamb and lot return properly to seal out the gamuzza.   No muss, no fuss and I am sure that I am getting the recommended 2 squirts every time I hit them with the squirt can.  Hope this helps, and it also keeps you machine clean and original too.

Bob


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## wa5cab (Oct 20, 2013)

Guy,

As someone else said, the oilers are pressed in. One way to remove them is to cut a 1/4" wide slot at the end of a putty knife blade and then grind a long taper on one side of the end. You can drive this under the lip of the oiler which will bring it up the thickness of the blade. At that point, if you don't care about salvaging the oiler, you can pry it on out. If you want to save the oiler, make two or three slotted shims and repeat the first step, adding a shim after each lift.

Here is a photo of one oiler tip that I have.  The reason for reducing the diameter behind the saucer shaped end is that you can also use the tip to open the spring loaded lid on an oil cup, slip the tip under the now raised lid, and squirt.

Robert D.


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## Kickstart (Oct 20, 2013)

Nice job on the oiler tip. :thumbzup:


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