# Tap & Die Station



## rdean (Nov 17, 2015)

Last Christmas my wife gave me a nice tap and die set but it didn't help much for making straight threads.  So this is what I came up with.




I used the tap holders from the set and made a die holder.  Quick change and plenty of capacity. 



I couldn't decide how I wanted to hold the piece for tapping so I made 4 slots and 4 adjustable round stops to see how it would work out.  The stops can be removed for fitting a vice and the head swiveled for unusual shapes.  


I'll use the setup for a while to see how I like it.
Time will tell.

Thanks 
Ray


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## mattthemuppet2 (Nov 17, 2015)

that's a really neat idea, great job!


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## kd4gij (Nov 17, 2015)

That looks like it should do a great job.


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## Silverbullet (Nov 18, 2015)

Nice job , I've got the idea to use an old connecting rod as the hook up to go up and down the post plus it's already made with the clamp on it . Piston pin hole for the tapper , an old cheap drill press table for the base. But yours turned out nice.


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## rdean (Nov 18, 2015)

Thanks all for the kind replies.
Like most things I make they get modified over the years as I find just how I want it.
I saw the piston rod style by others and liked that also.
Many of the store bought ones have a counter balance to lift the tapper.  
If you have one like that could you tell me how that works?

Ray


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## David S (Nov 18, 2015)

Very nice.  I especially like the simple flexible clamping method.

David


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## Benny (Nov 18, 2015)

"Good job" rdean !


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## FOMOGO (Nov 18, 2015)

Very nicely done. I have piles of con-rods laying around, will have to look into that when I get time. Mike


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## TommyD (Nov 18, 2015)

Nice work.

Is this what you are talking about? Could you use a compression spring below the crank and on top of the beam?
http://www.lassytools.com/tapper.html


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## rdean (Nov 18, 2015)

Yes TommyD that is what I am talking about.
I am wondering what the benefit is.  Does it just retract the tap above the work piece or a different reason.

Ray


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## Silverbullet (Nov 18, 2015)

rdean said:


> Yes TommyD that is what I am talking about.
> I am wondering what the benefit is.  Does it just retract the tap above the work piece or a different reason.
> 
> Ray


The main reason it's on the bigger model is to save the tap from dropping down and breaking the handle on that model must weigh 6 or 8 lbs. it would only help to minimize the down pressure. Small taps love to snap even when just starting.


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## TommyD (Nov 19, 2015)

I'd assume it also maintains upward pressure when retracting the tap out of the piece it is in, especially as it exits the piece so it doesn't bug up the top thread.


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## rdean (Nov 19, 2015)

OK that makes sense I may incorporate that into mine also.
Thanks 
Ray


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## Swarfmaster (Nov 20, 2015)

That is a very nice set up.  You did a lot of work in the build.  My only question is, "Do you own a Drill Press?"


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## rdean (Nov 21, 2015)

I do have a drill press.
Ray


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## TommyD (Nov 21, 2015)

To me using a drill press is a last resort....the only resort I have actually. A bear with small taps, holding the vice while retracting the tap and the upward spring effect for retraction of the press spindle, possibly pulling out the lead thread. I have had the vice cock up on an angle them fall off, pinching my delicate fingers.


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## hackley69 (Nov 21, 2015)

Nice work! I have been wanting to make one of these for sometime now. Seen where a fellow used a connecting rod from a small engine in his version of this tool but can't seam to relocate it now. Thanks for posting.


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## Swarfmaster (Nov 22, 2015)

TommyD said:


> To me using a drill press is a last resort....the only resort I have actually. A bear with small taps, holding the vice while retracting the tap and the upward spring effect for retraction of the press spindle, possibly pulling out the lead thread. I have had the vice cock up on an angle them fall off, pinching my delicate fingers.


Tommy, when you use a Drill Press,  you should use one of these nice little gadgets: 
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 The large end goes in the drill chuck and the point goes in the tap.  It is spring loaded.  You  lock the chuck holding the tap in place under spring pressure and perfectly straight up.  Then you turn the tap with the handle of your tapping holder.   This  allows you to make a perfectly  straight tap without breaking the tap and without pulling it out in error.  The best thing since "sliced bread".  Buy one.  You shouldn't be without something similar if you tap a hole using a Drill Press.   check out ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HHIP-3900-0...506205?hash=item280a00a4dd:g:7kMAAOSw5ZBWG5nc

I use one similar to this and haven't broken a tap in years.  And I do a lot of small stuff.  I just tapped some #6-40 and #8-32 holes in steel.  The 8-32 holes were over a half inch deep!  
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
  This is the tapered gibs upgrade for my mini-lathe.


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