# This is the start of something small - Craftsman 101



## auto.pilot

I found this Craftsman 101.07301 on CL locally within minutes of the new posting.  The pictures were so small, I couldn't even tell what color it was.  Long story short, I picked up a nice and rarely used Craftsman with a milling attachment and a few extras for a decent price.  Some of you guys probably view this little gem as a paper weight, but I'm hoping for some assistance, starting with pre-use prep.  The seller powered it up for me and it ran very smoothly with little vibration on a weak looking table.  

Q1:  What should I do to prepare for using it?  Prior to this, it was last run "with some wood in 1972".  Also, there is a fair amount of play in the carriage, cross slide and tailstock.  I suspect that in preparation for selling, everything was loosened up slightly so all the moving parts would actually move.
Q2:  The motor is very a heavy Robbins & Myers 1/4 hp 1750 rpm, but does not appear to be original.  Is the size and speed appropriate for this lathe?
Q3:  I won't be stripping it down or repainting, just cleaning.  What cleaning products and methods are recommended?


Thanks in advance.  Photobucket link below

http://s1091.photobucket.com/albums/i383/jim7485/Craftsman Atlas 618 101 07301 Metal Lathe/

Jim


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## Redirish

It is certainly not a paperweight, my first lathe was an Atlas 618, and I did lots of good work with it. They are small, can't do very heavy cuts, but set up and adjusted properly will do very good work. As to the motor, I would suggest moving up to at least 1/3 hp. There are quite a few parts on Ebay, if you need them, at varying prices. BTW, 1750 rpm is the correct speed for the motor. Have fun!


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## auto.pilot

I made this short video, no moving parts (yet).  For anyone interested, it might be easier than viewing the photobucket site.  


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ceN...DvjVQa1PpcFMfZMC-A_yvYykuidS0Om6AmzBvkhf4bdw=


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## auto.pilot

> Nice find, you gotta be quick and decisive when you see a deal like that, and you nailed it man!



Yep- they sell fast around here (Detroit/Ann Arbor).  I think just the milling attachment would cost nearly what I paid for the whole package.  I'm very pleased.  

jim


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## PurpLev

looks like a real nice machine, definitely not paper weight.

I've used WD-40 and paper rags in the past, and recently used simplegreen purple degreaser for some heavier cleaning application on my lathe (posted here) which worked well. 

I would recommend getting a printout of the parts list so that you'll know what to expect, taking each section apart, clean each part, lube it (way oil) and put it back together again. this will give you several benefits:
1. the lathe will be properly clean as much as possible from within so there will be no hidden surprises
2. you will become familiar with it's parts and their purpose 
3. everything will be tighthened back again from the ground up so you won't have to 2nd guess if something was missing

good luck and enjoy the process and the results


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## Tom Griffin

Nice score Jim! You'll have a lot of fun with it.

I clean my machines with WD-40 ($16/gallon at Home Depot). Spray it on and let it sit for a while then scrub the goo off with a Scotch-Brite pad and a stiff brush. If there is a lot of varnish from the old lube, alcohol or a spary cleaner like Fantastic will work. For surface rust like on the chucks, go to an auto paint supply and ask for metal prep. It's a weak phosphoric acid solution that will quickly dissolve the rust. brush it on, let it sit, scrub it off with a Scotch-Brite pad and rinse with hot water. Be sure to oil well afterward. That's about all you can do if you don't plan on taking it apart.

Once it's clean, re-adjust the gibs on all the slides and you should be good to go. I would look for a larger motor though. A 1/2 or 3/4 HP motor would be appropriate for that lathe.

When you get it all cleaned up, your first project should be the *carriage stop* I designed for the Atlas lathe.

Have fun.

Tom


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## AR1911

Those are very nice little lathes. I'm on my 4th and nicest 618, but yours is nicer than mine.  I have bigger lathes, but for small stuff I like a small machine. 
Of the Atlas lathes, this is the best of them all in terms of usefulness/size. 
My current problem is which to sell, my 7x14 minilathe  (nicest ever) or this 618. I'll probably keep the Atlas.

But to echo others above, disassemble and clean.  Section at a time. I also recommend WD40. For rust I use Evaporust, which is harmless to everything except rust, and works like magic.
Gray Scotchbrite is fine on the unpainted surfaces such as the ways, aided with some WD40. 
Don't be tempted to repaint yours, it looks fine.
Clean, lube assemble, lube again, and wipe down.  
Take care in getting the gibs as flat as possible, polishing on a flat plate and 400 sandpaper as needed, then adjusted as good as possible.
Front and rear of saddle in particular, then cross-slie and compound. If you found plastic gibds, replace immediately with metal (ebay)

Do check the carriage traverse gear assembly. It's behind the front of the apron, opposite the big handwheel shaft. the pot-metal gearcase often breaks, which puts lots of slack in that handwheel motion.
Someone is making milled aluminum replacements, check ebay.

Nice lathe, enjoy it and preserve it for the next generation.


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## Bill L.

Here is a link to a article  on removing the spindle to replace the belt or bushings.Read it carefully as there are some set screw burs you need to file down.

http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/atlas/spindle/spindle.html

Bill L.


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## StonewellMark

I use "lectra-motive" as a cleaner.  CRC makes it, and it has never hurt the paint on my stuff.  Automotive electric rebuilders use it, its pricey ($7-8 can), but it smells just like an old dry cleaners.  Nice Lathe by the way!  My first was an Atlas MK2.

Mark


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## auto.pilot

> I would recommend getting a printout of the parts list so that you'll know what to expect


  I have what appears to be the original parts price list that may have come with the lathe.  It's not dated, but the most expensive item is the 30 inch bed, priced at a whopping $38.90  Change gears are priced between $0.75 and $1.10.  Unfortunately, "All Prices Are Subject to Change Without Notice".  



> Here is a link to a article on removing the spindle to replace the belt or bushings.Read it carefully as there are some set screw burs you need to file down.


  Thanks for the link.  I'm guessing this procedure will be in my future.  



> Don't be tempted to repaint yours, it looks fine.


  Not a chance of that.  


> Take care in getting the gibs as flat as possible, polishing on a flat plate and 400 sandpaper as needed, then adjusted as good as possible.  Front and rear of saddle in particular, then cross-slie and compound. If you found plastic gibds, replace immediately with metal (ebay)


  Not certain, but all the gibs appear to be metal on first glance.  



> When you get it all cleaned up, your first project should be the *carriage stop* I designed for the Atlas lathe.


  I found that before buying the lathe and figured it would be part of the plan.  

Thanks for all other comments and recommendations.  I ordered an owner's manual and other info on ebay today, which should be helpful.  

More to follow.  

jim


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## sic semper tyrannis

Bill L. said:


> Here is a link to a article  on removing the spindle to replace the belt or bushings.Read it carefully as there are some set screw burs you need to file down.
> 
> http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/atlas/spindle/spindle.html
> 
> Bill L.



Link belts are your friend here.  NOT the green ones at HF.  You will need to order smaller ones to fit.  No need to pull spindles then!!!

I had one, used it, enjoyed it, sold it on when I got my 9a.  Now a friend of mine loves it!


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## Thurston Howell

Hello Jim,

Just to echo what so many have already said, the 618 is definitely not a lightweight and there have been many amazing things made with nothing more than what you have. I had a pristine 618 that was my pride and joy for a number of years and only got rid of it (much to my chagrin) because I didn't have room for two lathes in my small shop. I still miss it. 

Two things: it appears there is a lot of sawdust on the various parts - you want to get that off as soon as possible as it attracts moisture and will be a constant source of corrosion (aka rust!)

The other thing is make sure you contact Clausing directly for any required parts - they still carry many, if not most, and often their prices are a fraction of what used items go for on evilBay. This is an old price list but gives you an idea of what the prices are. The numbers relate directly to those in the manual for the 618 - if you don't have it let me know. 

View attachment Clausing Parts Price List 618.pdf


BTW - nice banjo track over the video - is that you? I have a Stelling Red Fox but the banjo is much better than the owner.


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## auto.pilot

> nice banjo track over the video - is that you?



No - just a random youtube supplied soundtrack.  Thanks for the parts tip.  I spent a few hours cleaning today and made a good dent.  I also ordered a 3/8 multi-link belt. Need to get a proper bench - will probably make something. 

As I clean it up and spend time looking carefully at every part, I'm becoming convinced that it was rarely used.  It appears that most (if not all) of the parts have never been removed.  There aren't even any scratches on screwheads and no indication that any bolt ever had a wrench on it (except the tool holder).  Amazing really, because I think this one is from the 40s. 


jim


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## Thurston Howell

auto.pilot said:


> As I clean it up and spend time looking carefully at every part, I'm becoming convinced that it was rarely used.  It appears that most (if not all) of the parts have never been removed.  There aren't even any scratches on screwheads and no indication that any bolt ever had a wrench on it (except the tool holder).  Amazing really, because I think this one is from the 40s.
> 
> 
> jim



There's a good possibility someone bought it from Sears and rarely, if ever used it! All the better for you, although even with normal use these things last a good long time with proper care. 

The motor is a bit low in power but should be OK; I'd prefer a 1/2HP that was standard on these lathes. (see page 6 of this pdf)  
	

		
			
		

		
	

View attachment 6-18 manual.pdf

	

		
			
		

		
	
 You'll be happy with the segmented belt - it actually reduces vibration and noise.

Once again, congratulations on your new lathe!


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## auto.pilot

> (see page 6 of this pdf)



The same manual I bought yesterday for $8, also the pdf version.  I should have asked!   Thanks for the suggestions. 

I did a fair amount of research to find the correct belt at the best price.  Grizzly, HF, Amazon, McMaster Carr and ebay.  
The best price for the Fenner 3/8 inch Power Twist Plus V Belt 3L (4 foot) was ebay seller ohioblademan at $30 with free shipping.  

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Twist...ltDomain_0&hash=item53e1db9870#ht_2647wt_1052


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## Thurston Howell

auto.pilot said:


> The same manual I bought yesterday for $8, also the pdf version.  I should have asked!   Thanks for the suggestions.
> 
> I did a fair amount of research to find the correct belt at the best price.  Grizzly, HF, Amazon, McMaster Carr and ebay.
> The best price for the Fenner 3/8 inch Power Twist Plus V Belt 3L (4 foot) was ebay seller ohioblademan at $30 with free shipping.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Twist...ltDomain_0&hash=item53e1db9870#ht_2647wt_1052



Hello Jim,

Too bad about buying the manual - whatever you do, don't buy anything else like that! I think I have everything in pdf format so just ask. 

That price for the Fenner is good with the free shipping and it will be a bit more than you need for the main drive as I recall. I changed both belts 



	

		
			
		

		
	
 and never regretted it. 
	

		
			
		

		
	






You'll enjoy using that lathe!


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## auto.pilot

MikeA-  That's a really nice looking lathe.  I'm going to start with the motor I have, but depending on performance I may want to swap it out for something new.  What are you using? 

Thanks

Jim


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## Thurston Howell

auto.pilot said:


> MikeA-  That's a really nice looking lathe.  I'm going to start with the motor I have, but depending on performance I may want to swap it out for something new.  What are you using?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Jim



Hello Jim,

Thanks, I spent a long time getting it to the condition I wanted - here's some shots of what it looked like when I got it:





It has been sitting in a leaky garage/barn for ~20 years, covered in surface rust and birds droppings!

The 1/4HP motor will do fine for most things but there will come a time when you just need a bit more and then the 1/3 or 1/2 really shines. 

I was fortunate in being able to pick up an Emco Maier Maximat V10-P with milling head, a much larger lathe (10 X 26) with geared headstock, Norton QuickChange gearbox for threading, and a very accurate lathe.


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## Galaxieman

Auto.pilot,

I also have a 101.07301 Craftsman 6 inch lathe. Picked it up about 10 years ago. 

Have the original manual (dated 1937!)

It is a nice lathe, although I am certainly not an expert in its use.

The main 'ugrade' I made was to make an up to date tool holder. The original one (in your pictures) is not very good. I made a solid post that holds the 1/4 x 1/4 carbide bits. That change, alone, made a HUGE improvement in useability.

If you need any pictures of any parts or sections of the lathe, let me know....


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## auto.pilot

I'd like to see a picture of that tool holder.  Thanks.


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## Galaxieman

auto.pilot,

Below are some pictures of my homemade tool holder. It is very simple and holds the the bits rock steady. 

If anyone wants more information about it...just ask.


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## swatson144

If you haven't solved the bench dilemma consider finding a used Steelcase (TM) desk. Used office furniture places and auction houses. Very sturdy and built in handy storage.  Mount a plate on top and a industrial baking sheet (restaurant supply) for swarf.

Steve


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## pdentrem

Join the yahoo group for Atlas lathes. Lots of info in the files area. Lots of users and active members there. I had an Atlas 10F24 for about 20 years. Sold it in the fall as I bought a Jet BDB 1340 clone and as others have stated only room for one.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/


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## rafe

Nice looking lathe, I have the newer version (With Timken bearings) yours is babbet bearings i believe.....They are supposed to be more accurate when right.....It looks like yours has seen little use.........KEEP those bearings well lubed .......and by all means don't forget to keep the bearings lubed ......and always remember to properly lube ....well you know ......I love mine.......


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## skipjackk

I have an Atlas 618 I want to sell. Anyone know the best place to list it and what I should ask for it? It has a bunch of gears and attachments. It was my dad's. He was a machinist. I work with auto mechanics more so I'm not real familiar with using a lathe. skipjackk@yahoo.com if anyone has some info. Thanks


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## AR1911

skipjackk said:


> I have an Atlas 618 I want to sell. Anyone know the best place to list it and what I should ask for it? It has a bunch of gears and attachments. It was my dad's. He was a machinist. I work with auto mechanics more so I'm not real familiar with using a lathe. skipjackk@yahoo.com if anyone has some info. Thanks



Not enough info. What condition is it in, what all attachments and tooling. Pictures would help. And most of all, what is the market for machine tools in your area?

That said, the range for those in my area (Texas) is $300 - $750, with the upper end reserved for like-new units with all the goodies.

But unless you are desperate for money, I suggest you mothball it and keep it in the family. There may come a time when you or a child develop an interest. You don't want to say "I sure wish I had kept Dad's old lathe".


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## wa5cab

Rafe,

The 101.07301 has bronze sleeve bearings.  Atlas never built a babbit bearing 6".  It is otherwise identical to the 618 of the same period.  

But either way, your lube comments are spot on.

Robert D.



rafe said:


> Nice looking lathe, I have the newer version (With Timken bearings) yours is babbet bearings i believe.....They are supposed to be more accurate when right.....It looks like yours has seen little use.........KEEP those bearings well lubed .......and by all means don't forget to keep the bearings lubed ......and always remember to properly lube ....well you know ......I love mine.......


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## wa5cab

The Atlas manual title is "Manual of Lathe Operations and Machinists Tables".  Published every one to five years from 1937 to 1988 and still available from Clausing.  However, to go with a 618 you're probably better off with editions between 1940 and 1950.

Robert D.


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## dennis98277

hi guys i have two of these that i am wanting to restore and my questing is what type of pain should i use i want to get to as close as origional as possible. Thanks


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## wa5cab

Dennis,

Excrutiating pain, most likely. )  

Seriously, though, the one thing that we can be pretty sure of is that all of the Atlas lathes were originally painted with red lead primer and lead based enamel.  Neither of which are generally available today.  So you are stuck with using what you can buy.  Use whatever type your paint supplier recommends for machinery that will have oil and grease liberally slung over it.

As to color (which may be what your question actually was), unfortunately none of the Craftsman Power Tools or Atlas catalogs between 1934 and 1981 that I have (which if most of the former and half a dozen of the latter) are actually in color.  Many of even the early ones have color on the covers and some have color on the interior pages.  But all of the photographs are black and white (what would be called today gray scale).  As far as I know, the only two colors Atlas ever used were shades of either green or gray.  As to shade, your best bet, or at least first step, if either or both of your machines have not been repainted some other color, is to look for a spot on one or both of them with original paint that has not been exposed to light or not exposed much over the past 30 to 70 years.  

You didn't give the model numbers of your machines but if they have reversing boxes (10" only) or QCGB's (10" or 12") or feed screw support boxes (change gear late 12"), remove the box and look at the area on the front of the headstock that was covered by the box.  If they don't, and they do have apparently original full top covers (early 10" and 12" don't), the underside of the top cover may be a good place to use.  The only remaining area might be on the left end of the headstock under the banjo (change gear bracket or quadrant) or on some machines under a steel plate that shields the back side of the screw gear.

Robert D.


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## wa5cab

Tom,

Sorry for the delay in responding.

I don't know as I don't yet have any within that date range (but am looking).  My comment was based on the fact that the QCGB came out circa 1951 and seems to have displaced some earlier photos for page space.  And anything later than 1957 begins to show the later 1/2" way 12" and the photos of the 10" disappear.  However, I seriously doubt it.  It would be a minor accessory and might not have made the cut.  I have 6 or 7 editions from 1955 on and none seem to have any 618 photos at all.  Whether there are any in the editions before 1950 or not I don't yet know.  But there are at least fewer photos of things that bear no resemblence to the 6" versions.  If you do come across an earlier edition, don't forget to check for photos in the Accessories section as well as the Lathe section.  

Robert D.


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## Sundossa12

What kind of chuck is this on the Atlas?   This is a great thread. Thanks


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## chasekyle70

Hello I am new to this entire hobby, but recently picked up a Craftsman 101.  It appears to be a potentially good machine.  When I bought it however, it did not have the motor.  The owners manual is available in paper copy and digital which I do have.  All the info I need to get a replacement motor is there and in this thread.  My question is about what pulley I need for the motor since it is set up for cutting thread.  I hate to get the wrong one and it all be off because the speed is wrong.  Would appreciate any and all help.

Thanks
Chase


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## pdentrem

Actually the pulley size is only related to the rpm. It has nothing to do with the threading operation. If you are smaller than factory, the rpms will be lower and naturally the reverse if larger. Some lathe also had a 2 step pulley system to allow a wider range of rpm.
Pierre


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## wa5cab

Chase,

You didn't say which size lathe you have.  9", 10" and 12" all use the same pulley, Atlas 9-428 for 1/2" motor shaft diameter and 10-428 for 5/8".  Atlas 6" uses M6-428 for 1/2" motor shaft diameter and M6-429 **  for 5/8".  Go to the Atlas/Craftsman folder in DOWNLOADS and look for the Atlas drawings folder.  There is an aftermarket drawing to make a 10-428 and a factory drawing for M6-428.  If you need one for the other shaft diameter, that is the only difference between each pair.  Several pulleys have been made from the 10-428 drawing so it's OK.

You are unlikely to be able to find any commercial 2-step pulleys that match.  The reason is that almost all of them come in only 1/2" or 1" increments whereas the original pulleys were designed to produce specific RPM's while maintaining approximately the same belt tensions from speed to speed.  So unless you find or make an original, you may have to make up a new RPM table and move the motor and/or countershaft when you change speeds.

Read the DOWNLOADS instructions in the Sticky area up top before you start looking.

** Correction - originally said M6-428.


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## chasekyle70

Sorry about that, I have the Craftsman 101.07301 six-inch lathe.


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## wa5cab

OK.  Then use the M6-428 drawing for original pulley dimensions other than motor shaft diameter.


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