# Fowler and Vevor micrometers for hobbiest?



## intrepid (May 4, 2022)

I’m looking to buy a set of micrometers 1-4 or 1-6. Just a hobbiest and don’t want to invest in high end professional stuff.  Was looking at Fowler but was wondering if also the Vevor is worth considering?  I know nothing of either brand.  Any other brands I should consider?  Looking for opinions.  Thanks


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## mmcmdl (May 4, 2022)

The older blue Fowlers were around years ago and were identical to the green Mits . Great mics if you can find them . JMO . I went with the Mit set back in 77 for no special reason but have plenty of Starretts as well as others .



			https://www.amazon.com/Fowler-52-215-006-1-Micrometer-Measuring-Graduation/dp/B00B5HOU62/ref=asc_df_B00B5HOU62/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312115145736&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12005100572830105791&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007833&hvtargid=pla-449876723229&psc=1
		










						Mitutoyo Series 103 Mechanical Micrometers, 0 in-1 in, .001 in, Ratchet Stop, Angular (1 EA/EA)
					

At Factory Supply Outlet , we aim to cut your MRO Spend in just a few clicks. We carry Lubriplate, Busch, 3M, and over 200 different Brands to serve your needs!




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## Mini Cooper S (May 4, 2022)

I know nothing of the Vevor brand, so I can not speak to those.  As a Tool & Die Maker, I always bought Starrett, Brown & Sharp or Mititoyo but somehow acquired some used Fowler tools, including a 1" mic.  I am very impressed with the Fowler mic.  I also have a 6" Fowler vernier caliper, that I bought new, the thing is bullet proof, I use it all the time.

Richard


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## markba633csi (May 4, 2022)

New Fowler stuff is from China I believe- doesn't mean it's bad.  Older stuff was USA made.
Vevor is a Chinese brand.  Quality may be variable.  I'd buy used USA stuff myself, Lufkin for example


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## Aukai (May 4, 2022)

If your not in a rush I have a set of something outside, I can check to see what it is, all my stuff now is better quality. NSK is in my mind, something made in Japan, but not Mitutoyo. I may also have a roller display Fowler set, both 0-6. I'm not real mobile right now, and have to wait for my wife to go to work so I don't get caught going into the garage


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## mmcmdl (May 4, 2022)

Aukai said:


> If your not in a rush I have a set of something outside, I can check to see what it is, all my stuff now is better quality. NSK is in my mind, something made in Japan, but not Mitutoyo. I may also have a roller display Fowler set, both 0-6. I'm not real mobile right now, and have to wait for my wife to go to work so I don't get caught going into the garage


I've been in the garage all morning . Sockets and wrench duty today . I don't know why I started down this journey today , it'll take a week at best . If I don't have 50 ratchets I don't have one .


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## benmychree (May 4, 2022)

markba633csi said:


> New Fowler stuff is from China I believe- doesn't mean it's bad.  Older stuff was USA made.
> Vevor is a Chinese brand.  Quality may be variable.  I'd buy used USA stuff myself, Lufkin for example


The shop where I apprenticed had a bunch of Lufkin mikes among others, I always thought that they were a bit clunky compared to Starrett or B&S, as time went on I bought mikes for myself so I did not need to use the tool crib stuff most of the time, I ended up with 0 - 6" mostly in the #436RL series, except the 0-1 which has the plated frame VS the black painted forged steel frames of the 436.


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## intrepid (May 4, 2022)

Aukai said:


> If your not in a rush I have a set of something outside, I can check to see what it is, all my stuff now is better quality. NSK is in my mind, something made in Japan, but not Mitutoyo. I may also have a roller display Fowler set, both 0-6. I'm not real mobile right now, and have to wait for my wife to go to work so I don't get caught going into the garage


Thanks for the offer.  I’m in no rush just starting my search.  Yes let me know when you can.  Thanks again.


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## Aukai (May 4, 2022)

The Fowler is only 0-3", I have to go out to the garage later, and get a part number for the NSK, I did go out but did not think to get the number.... I have a Starrett 0-6" set, do I need 2 full sets is what I'm asking myself....


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## mmcmdl (May 4, 2022)

Aukai said:


> do I need 2 full sets is what I'm asking myself....


Post a poll . You know where my vote would be . Did those Starretts come from Md ?


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## pontiac428 (May 4, 2022)

Fowler is one of my favorites, with some caveats.  Fowler is not a manufacturer, they are a branded reseller.  They contract various tools from well known manufacturers around the world.  Most Fowler dial instruments were made by Helios in Germany before China took over.  IIRC, they even used Tesa for their mics.  This applies to stuff from the 80s-90s from what I have in my Kennedy chest.  I can't speak for today's new production, though.  I would consider any USA or European brand from any time frame to be a good choice.  Be patient, but if you do see a good deal, jump on it!

Edit:  My 0-12 mics are from Scherr-Tumico.  Very affordable and readily found in complete sets.


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## Bi11Hudson (May 4, 2022)

As a "hobbyist", for me any measurement beyond 0.001" would be measured "Full or Scant". When one gets into "tenths", one is pushing being a professional. Most of my work is done with a (cheap) dial caliper. For what to me is precision work, I then fall back to a micrometer. I have only two, a 0-2" and a 2-3". I doubt I will ever use the latter, but it was cheap on eBay. Both are Brown & Sharps, just because I am partial toward B&S. Both have been checked with "Jo" blocks, yes I can do precision measurements when needed. And both are dead on. But I don't need that accuracy most of the time. I did precision calibration way back in the '70s and understand where it is needed and where it is not. If you want to train yourself to work to tenths, by all means get a micrometer calibrated as such. Don't worry about the brand, even a cheap one will do once it is properly zeroed. A Starrett or Mitutoyo when you get into professional work, but use the cash where it's needed, not chasing "better or bestest".

.


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## Firstram (May 4, 2022)

Bi11Hudson said:


> As a "hobbyist", for me any measurement beyond 0.001" would be measured "Full or Scant". When one gets into "tenths", one is pushing being a professional. Most of my work is done with a (cheap) dial caliper. For what to me is precision work, I then fall back to a micrometer. I have only two, a 0-2" and a 2-3". I doubt I will ever use the latter, but it was cheap on eBay. Both are Brown & Sharps, just because I am partial toward B&S. Both have been checked with "Jo" blocks, yes I can do precision measurements when needed. And both are dead on. But I don't need that accuracy most of the time. I did precision calibration way back in the '70s and understand where it is needed and where it is not. If you want to train yourself to work to tenths, by all means get a micrometer calibrated as such. Don't worry about the brand, even a cheap one will do once it is properly zeroed. A Starrett or Mitutoyo when you get into professional work, but use the cash where it's needed, not chasing "better or bestest".
> 
> .


I'm right there with you! Virtually everything I do for work is a one off that gets used once, then tossed. If it fits, it ships sort of thing! I do make items for myself that are more refined but, even then things are "fluid".  I spent way too many years chasing perfection when it wasn't necessary, now I'm very happy just shooting from the hip and getting on with the next thing!


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## Boswell (May 4, 2022)

just curious here but micrometers create do there thing via a gear train, right? It would seem that accuracy would not be an issue with no-name and cheep tools, you ether have the right tooth count or you don't. So I am asking ( and speculating) that the difference in cheep vs high quality is not in accuracy but rather is things like how smooth the action,  is it repairable (parts available etc), will the anvils last, and all of the usability things. I guess there could be some backlash in the gear train of lower quality mics but I would think that would be in the tenths range for even a low quality tool.  
I'm not trying to stir the pot here, just curious if I am mis-understanding how mics work and where higher quality design and manufacturing of a mic will show up in practical use.


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## NCjeeper (May 4, 2022)

My 6-12" set is NSK. Good quality and made in Japan.


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## jbaccell (May 4, 2022)

Aukai said:


> If your not in a rush I have a set of something outside, I can check to see what it is, all my stuff now is better quality. NSK is in my mind, something made in Japan, but not Mitutoyo. I may also have a roller display Fowler set, both 0-6. I'm not real mobile right now, and have to wait for my wife to go to work so I don't get caught going into the garage


All my NSK mics and calipers are top notch.  IMHO, just as good as Mitutoyo...


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## Bi11Hudson (May 4, 2022)

Boswell said:


> just curious here but micrometers create do there thing via a gear train, right? It would seem that accuracy would not be an issue with no-name and cheep tools, you ether have the right tooth count or you don't. So I am asking ( and speculating) that the difference in cheep vs high quality is not in accuracy but rather is things like how smooth the action,  is it repairable (parts available etc), will the anvils last, and all of the usability things. I guess there could be some backlash in the gear train of lower quality mics but I would think that would be in the tenths range for even a low quality tool.
> I'm not trying to stir the pot here, just curious if I am mis-understanding how mics work and where higher quality design and manufacturing of a mic will show up in practical use.


At the bottom line, a "micrometer" is properly known as a micrometer caliper. As a step up from a vernier caliper, it is essentially the same as a dial caliper. Most times, I can interpolate half a thou on a dial caliper. A micrometer consists of a 40 pitch mandrel with the plunger running thereon. One rotation of *any* 40 pitch screw moves the tip of the screw 0.025 inch. On a "mike"(properly mic), the tip of the screw and the anvil it presses against are carefully shaped square to the moving ram and hardened (& possibly lapped) so that the same measure is acheived regardless of position. With a strongback to hold the parts under pressure. The "C" shaped bow. . .

From my distant past, I have several (1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, etc) 40 TPI taps. They were for fitting adjustment (or calibration) screws on archaic measurement instruments. What and how they were actually used is outside the frame of this discussion. What is relevant is that they worked the same way as a mike, one rotation of the screw moved the tip 0.025 inch. From a theoretical perspective, I could build a special mike on a shaft of the same diameter as one of these taps.. The threads could be single pointed on the lathe. The follower could be tapped the same pitch, the hole left intact or shaved by a half to make a lifting mechanism. Essentially the same way half nuts fit the lead screw to make threads on a lathe.

The "complexity"of a mike is really non-existant. The precision and repeatibility are what matters. The only "complex" part is that it is done so small as to be a one handed shop tool. The many manufacturers realize "quality" as much or mostly through the smoothness where parts fit together, smoothness of finish, and the square grinding where the tips meet. In most any other perspective, once they are trued, calibrated to zero, there is little difference between Mitutoyo and Harbor Freight.

A metric micrometer works the same way, just with a metric thread on the screw. I have a couple but have not dismantled one or analyzed the dial. I don't use one very often, doing many of the conversions in my head as I work. Probably a 0.5mm pitch, but I'm not sure. . . Looking at how far the tip travels in one revolution defines the pitch.

.


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## snoopdog (May 7, 2022)

I think a 0-4 set is generally sufficient for a hobbyist, all of mine are secondhand from fleamarkets etc. I have a 0-6 set of phase 2, bought off fb marketplace not too long ago at a great price, the shape is a little clunky compared to the others but I wouldn't shy away from them, very reasonable online.


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## rwdenney (Aug 16, 2022)

I have a 20-year-old set of Fowler mics from 0-4”. They are on blue Mitutoyo-style frames with plastic hand insulators, and include a tenths vernier (the use of which is optional, of course). They include ratchet thimbles. They do not have carbide anvils, but the anvils are hardened and polished. They are accurate and repeatable (the set came with standards but I have calibrated them against Starrett gauge blocks). I don’t see a country of origin on them anywhere, but they seem to me finished to a professional level. 

(My larger mics—4-9”—are vintage Lufkin 0.001 mics that are hard to calibrate but have never needed to be. They are decent but the Fowlers are nicer.)

I have used them for automotive mechanical work many times over the years, and they give me much more measurement confidence than my sliding vernier and dial calipers, of which I have Etalon, Mauser, Mitutoyo, and Tesa examples.

Rick “bought the telescopic bore gauges with the Fowlers” Denney


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## Shotgun (Aug 16, 2022)

I have bought several of the Vevor brand tools.  They could be pretty good, or I could just be lucky, but everything has worked for me so far.


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## ltlvt (Dec 24, 2022)

intrepid said:


> I’m looking to buy a set of micrometers 1-4 or 1-6. Just a hobbiest and don’t want to invest in high end professional stuff.  Was looking at Fowler but was wondering if also the Vevor is worth considering?  I know nothing of either brand.  Any other brands I should consider?  Looking for opinions.  Thanks


I have had pretty good luck buying used Brown and Sharp micrometers on Ebay. I invested in a set of gage blocks so I can do my own calibration. I also have some Economy Micrometers that I use but just the feel of a good Starrett, Brown and Sharp or Mitutoyo is very pleasing, and they just ooze confidence. My suggestion is to start with what you can afford and keep your eye out for the good stuff at low prices. With so many of our manufacturing and machining jobs being sourced in other countries the used tool bargains are out there.


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## Dabbler (Dec 24, 2022)

A while back when Fowler was taken over by offshore interests, A couple of friends bought Fowler b/c I said usa made- so they will do you well.  Very bad experience... Forewarned one of the 2 got their money back.  They just rebranded the cheapest and sold for premium price.  

Nowadays, they are a respected brand with a good reputation.

Fowler is what I think of as 'journeyman quality'.   All my mics are either Moore and Wright, or Mitutoyo.The nice thing about Fowler is great for the price...


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## Aukai (Dec 25, 2022)

I have a full set of NSK mics, and they are good also as a backup set to my Mits, and Starretts


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## Jake M (Dec 25, 2022)

For whatever it may or may not be worth......  I got a set of dirt cheap "Chuan Brand", used at an annual "storage unit auction".  I can't tell you at all if they're "good" or not, but I can tell you for hobby use, where you don't have to send parts across the oceans to match up with somebody elses parts-  They're good.  They work smoothly, they repeat well and easily, and (where you can), you can "standard" them at the zero and one positions, and they agree with each other.  I don't care one bit if if I'm off by ten thousandths at six inches so long as all my stuff comes out the same. (I am not out that much, or even close.  I have no idea how close the absolute measurement is, and no way to qualify it, but it's not outside of two thousandths, my belief is it's less than one.  Maybe dead nutz, I have no idea).    The bottom line is that they're consistant, all of my measurements, and all of my math all come out right, so for hobby use, they're fine.  I'm not sure that the materials are going to hold up to sixty years or more of commercial shop use on a daily basis, but as is, they work.  I do  need to throw a picture out though, as there are options.  The ones I speak of are like this, in the wooden box and have carbide tips.



			https://resources.kinnek.com/media/gallery_images/gusxvzgvapyrtqz.jpg
		


I'm not saying they're the best, or that they're anything worth admitting that I own...  Just that they work for anything I'll probably ever do.  They allow me to measure to tenths, although in my world it's mostly academic.  I'm not above "trying" to hit or split tenths, just for the sport of it, but in practice, hitting one thousandth is more than I need.  

I've also used Fouler for a lot of things at work,  both "calipers" and "mics".  They have never been "perfect", and don't necessarily repeat to each other, but up until the last ten years or so, they've always been "close enough", and built closer to what I'd call "workshop grade".  They hold up well to being mishandled, abused, and tossed in a drawer full of other mechanic's tools.  I'll put their accuracy like this-  If a five inch cylinder liner is 0.002 over the reuse spec, I'll fail it off of those, and I'll be right, because it's probably three or four over, but I never have trusted these enough to "do the math" to find an absolute value.  If that liner is in a range to consider it's reuse?  I gotta dig out something nice, I will not use these.

The biggest question is, what do you need the calipers to do?


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## jbaccell (Dec 25, 2022)

Aukai said:


> I have a full set of NSK mics, and they are good also as a backup set to my Mits, and Starretts


I too have a set of digital (mechanical) NSK mics that are made in Japan.  They are every bit as good as my Mitutoyo and probably better than any of my Starrett mics.


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## ChazzC (Dec 25, 2022)

Aukai said:


> The Fowler is only 0-3", I have to go out to the garage later, and get a part number for the NSK, I did go out but did not think to get the number.... I have a Starrett 0-6" set, do I need 2 full sets is what I'm asking myself....


I always buy C-Clamps in pairs . . .

Also, it's always good to have a spare that matches what you already have.

My 0 – 3" set is 40 years old from ENCO, regular micrometers (not mechanical-digital); does what I need.


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## Larry$ (Dec 25, 2022)

I will use calipers to get "in the range", then switch to mics. Actually for many things my Fowler electronic calipers are just fine. With care, they give results that are = to what a mic does, for practical purposes. I've had them for about 6 years. Batteries last about a year. 
As for micrometers, my go to is a Mitutoyo 0-1" with a mechanical digital readout in addition to the barrel. I can eyeball estimate to maybe .0002 or 3. I have a very old (1950+-) set of 1" to 3" Starret mics that are in excellent condition. Used when needed, kept in a case when not. 

For internal measurements that really matter, press fits, I have gage pins to .500" so I can get very accurate readings up to .999", +.0000, minus up to .0004.  (.0002 at less than .500".)


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## twhite (Dec 25, 2022)

I still have my original SPI 1-3 set of mics Bought in 1980. They still pass calibration every year. I also have my dads Starrett 2-6 mics from the 60’s. Those too pass calibration every year. Mics will last several lifetimes if properly cared for. 


Cutting oil is my blood.


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## Winegrower (Dec 25, 2022)

Jake M said:


> Fouler


Ha Ha!


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## B2 (Dec 27, 2022)

I have yet to find any need to measure down to 0.0001".    Maybe someday if I can ever cut (grind) to that scale!  In fact, I bet there are very few of us who can actually measure this repeatably.  0.0001"= 2.5 microns while 0.001mm= 1 micron= 0.00004"  Most debris or oil on your hands is thicker than a micron.  Temperature changes cause parts to change by more than this.  If you disagree with me I suggest you repeatedly measure a 1" gauge and see if you can even hold it straight enough to get the same reading over and over.  This is especially true if one side of the micrometer is not a flat, but a point or a ball.  So I purchased a set of relatively inexpensive, high resolution (~$200 for the set of 4) digital micrometers from China via www.aliexpress.com and have been happy with them.   "Electronic Outside Micrometer 0-25mm 25-50mm 50-75mm 75-100mm    0.001 mm    Digital Micrometer Gauge Meter Micrometer Measuring Tools"    

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1101314029?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000007.1.4b699476VjbVMR 



			https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802524717627.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.15.5c1a2560SpIoh5&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21USD%21US%20%2466.50%21US%20%2437.90%21%21%21%21%21%40210321ea16721778755486415e27f7%2112000021812065757%21sh&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
		


Dave L.


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## pontiac428 (Dec 27, 2022)

In order to measure a .0005 tolerance, you need .0001 resolution.  Same goes for thousandths, if you want to measure a .005 tolerance you need a .001 reliable instrument.  So it has more to do with relating two parts usefully, as we all do in the shop, more than it is with nominal precision such as the desire to make a part within a tenth of a print dimension.  Nobody in non-production does that, as manual machinists we fit our parts and we need finer tools to measure the gap.  That's why tenths instruments make sense.


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## Dabbler (Dec 27, 2022)

I have plunge indicators in thou, tenths of a thou and one that measures in increments of 4 millionths of an inch (.0001mm).  I have uses for each.


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