# My First Mill Could Use Some Help Identifying Rf 31?



## motofool33 (Dec 15, 2015)

So i am looking for the front panel, and a pulley diagram for speeds. 

and also gonna be fixing the broken hand wheels 

Things left to do: clean it with something thinking brakeclean to start with

figure out a good way oil and get some fresh oil on it. 

paint the base other then silver and get it setup on the base to cut something.


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## Bob Korves (Dec 15, 2015)

Get some purple cleaner at the big box lumber store and and a scrub brush, along with some Scotchbrite for the bare metal surfaces and put on some old clothes!  Also get some Vactra #2 to oil it down with when you are done.


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## davidh (Dec 16, 2015)

speed diagram can be found by googling for an operating manual.  or i have one somewhere i could forward.  a similar Grizzly or Jet would have a front panel most likely.


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## Steve M (Dec 16, 2015)

I cleaned one up which was in far worse shape than this one.  Did have the front panel but the plastic placard on it was gone, just blank aluminum.  I used the purple stuff and the maroon scotchbrite to good avail.  Also used extremely fine steel wool.  Places like Woodcraft Supply sell cast iron cleaners in liquid form that are great.  Boeshield rust and stain remover and maroon scotchbrite were my handiest tools.  Parts and manuals can be had online from Jet, Grizzly and others.  The Jet version is the JDM-15 or 16.  Have fun and good luck.


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## Whyemier (Dec 16, 2015)

Yep! RF30 or 31, Same as I have.  Nice little machine but made more for light work.


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## brino (Dec 16, 2015)

Hi motofool,

Welcome to the site!
That looks like a stout machine in fairly good condition. Congrats!
As you see above there are many here with experience in that very machine and in machine restore/rebuild in general.

My few suggestions:
-spend the time during clean-up to identify all the oiling locations, often with used machinery some get missed and are then almost invisible under the accumulated crud. Those little ball-type oilers are easy to miss. Hopefully you can find a manual that applies and shows all the oil locations.
-clean up time is also a great time to learn a new machine inside-out; learn what all the controls do, find all the gib adjusters, etc. Again, if you can find a good manual an exploded parts view will help.

I wish all of my trees grew with an outlet on them like that...........solar powered and green energy! 

Have fun and be safe!
-brino

EDIT: one more thing.....if you find something stuck, try a penetrating oil made of 50% Automatic Transmission Fluid and 50% acetone. It's very thin and seep/creeps into every crevice. Like any chemical, don't get it in your eyes!


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## royesses (Dec 16, 2015)

Welcome aboard motofool33!
Found a manual here:
http://www.leadermachinerysales.com/RF-31 MANUAL.pdf


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## brasssmanget (Dec 16, 2015)

This is from my RF31 - hope it helps.


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## motofool33 (Dec 16, 2015)

So got the table off today, lots of nastyness. Pondering if I'm gonna bother with paint after cleaning.


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## Bob Korves (Dec 16, 2015)

Paint is totally optional, unless you are an obsessive clean freak.  Then it is everything.  Doesn't matter if the machine is broken or out of adjustment, it sure looks great!  For others, form follows function.  Count me in with the latter.  I keep my machines reasonably clean, but only so they are ready to use...


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## motofool33 (Dec 16, 2015)

what kind of grease you guys think i should use on the screws?

im thinking about paint cause when i used the air hose to blow off the dust paint was flaking off


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## brino (Dec 16, 2015)

motofool33 said:


> Pondering if I'm gonna bother with paint after cleaning.



I say get the crud out and then decide. Once you see all sliding surfaces, feel the bearings, etc. you'll be in a better spot to determine how much dis-assembly is required.
(By the way....that's not so dirty.)
However, as my Dad has told me "Don't make any big project decisions at the end of the day." [when you're tired, dirty and beaten down]. Wait 'til tomorrow.



motofool33 said:


> what kind of grease you guys think i should use on the screws?



None of my machine tools have any grease on them.....I use ISO32 hydraulic oil on all my machines, that's for the sliding ways, turning bearings, feed screws and gears...everything. I get a 19L bucket for about $50 at the local tractor supply place. Sure my machines are all fairly old, low-speed by modern standards, but I believe that the higher speed ones want oil even more than grease.
Some folks will disagree, some buy South Bend A, B,C and "way" oil, I use ISO32 for all that.
Note also that I am not too afraid of being flamed here  for saying so, this group is not as polarized as some others.

The manual linked to above (post #7) says a "medium consistency machine oil" at four locations shown (poorly) in Fig 1.



Bob Korves said:


> Paint is totally optional, unless you are an obsessive clean freak. Then it is everything. Doesn't matter if the machine is broken or out of adjustment, it sure looks great! For others, form follows function. Count me in with the latter. I keep my machines reasonably clean, but only so they are ready to use...



Like Bob I am in the second camp.......my 1916 Cincinnati mill needs to be totally disassembled, cleaned and reassembled.....the trouble is that I'm using it!
It's on the list, as soon as I get another mill that I can use in the mean time, oh and I need a new shop because there's no room in my current 2-car garage shop (man it would be nice to park a vehicle inside)...

-brino


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## motofool33 (Dec 17, 2015)

So far grizzly has discontinued the front panel. Talking to enco about getting one. 

Need some help finding one of these all the manuals have a different thumb screw for the way/table locks.

This is a M8x1.25 thread.


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## TomS (Dec 17, 2015)

motofool33 said:


> So far grizzly has discontinued the front panel. Talking to enco about getting one.
> 
> Need some help finding one of these all the manuals have a different thumb screw for the way/table locks.
> 
> ...



I'll look through my junk/spares and see what I have.  

Tom S.


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## brino (Dec 17, 2015)

I'd replace it with a hex-head or socket-head cap screw for now, and add it to the list of first projects to make once it's running......
-brino


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## TomS (Dec 18, 2015)

TomS said:


> I'll look through my junk/spares and see what I have.
> 
> Tom S.



The picture below is what I dug out of my "inventory".  All are 8mm x 1.25.  The longest with the dog point have 1-3/8" of thread and the dog point is 3/8" long.  The medium length have 1-3/8" of thread and the short one's have 9/16" of thread.  The wing nut style has 11/16" of thread.  All are available for the asking.  How many do you need? 

Tom S.


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## motofool33 (Dec 18, 2015)

TomS

just one ill measure it this evening dont remember the threaded length.


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## TomS (Dec 18, 2015)

motofool33 said:


> TomS
> 
> just one ill measure it this evening dont remember the threaded length.



Forgot to attach my instruction manual.  Hope it helps.

Tom S.


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## motofool33 (Dec 18, 2015)

mine has 35mm of thread or about 1 5/16" thread


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## TomS (Dec 19, 2015)

motofool33 said:


> mine has 35mm of thread or about 1 5/16" thread



OK.  Looks like the 1-3/8" long one's without the dog point will work.  Send me a PM with your mailing address and I'll get one in the mail in the next day or so.

Tom S.


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## motofool33 (Dec 19, 2015)

awesome thanks TomS


gonna put some degreaser in the parts washer today and try to clean up the table and maybe paint the side of it today we'll see how much motivation i get.


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## motofool33 (Dec 19, 2015)

for end mill bits do you guys use collets(r8) or get a specific end mill holder for them?

i just grabbed a lot of many sizes n shapes off ebay to get me started.


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## TomS (Dec 20, 2015)

motofool33 said:


> for end mill bits do you guys use collets(r8) or get a specific end mill holder for them?
> 
> i just grabbed a lot of many sizes n shapes off ebay to get me started.



I have both but prefer the collets over the holders.  Collets have less tool stick which is more rigid.  Holders have there place but you are more likely to have chatter problems especially with larger end mills.

Tom S.


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## motofool33 (Dec 20, 2015)

Got the base painted with first coat. There were at least 4 colors on this thing and under that was this bondo looking crap.

Put some paint on the base after a quick sand and grind on the welding boogers from previous owner. But thinking I'm gonna modify the base it has no leveling feet.


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## brino (Dec 20, 2015)

such progress......you only started this thread less than a week ago!
I have a mill that's waiting for that kind of attention, but there's too many projects ahead of it.

Good work!

-brino


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## motofool33 (Dec 20, 2015)

Thanks I have put about 12 hours into this project now, want to be proud of it sitting in corner even if it is a round column. 

If the guy hadn't had wood dust in his shop and this gum of a mix of oil n grease I wouldn't have tore it apart.


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## Bib Overalls (Dec 27, 2015)

*"Send me a PM with your mailing address and I'll get one in the mail in the next day or so. Tom S."*

New to the forum.  Think I am going to like it here.


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## motofool33 (Dec 27, 2015)

Got the table cleaned up had to let the methonal dry for a day cause i ran out of gas for the torch.




Put coat #2 on the base and stand, and drawer



and then a coat on the table:



Still waiting on the way oil to show up. 
and then ill be adding a new front hand wheel, a new front cover, and a new rubber way cover one they show up. 

im gonna finish and mount the table before i tear the top apart as i want to mark the column to pin the rack to it.


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## brino (Dec 27, 2015)

That's coming along great.
Thanks for the pictures.
-brino


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## motofool33 (Dec 27, 2015)

okay question time, cleaning the table i found 3 ball bearings, my best guess is these went in the back side of the oilers for the table. but the parts diagram just says 1/4" oiler and doesn't break it out big enough to see anything am i correct?

the ball bearings were not related to the bearings and races for the ball screws, they are much larger.


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## motofool33 (Jan 2, 2016)

update: waiting for new oil cups to come in before i put table back on.

one last coat on the table.


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## motofool33 (Jan 11, 2016)

got the table back on, had to wait on new oil cups. the ones from grizzly were different size then the current ones.


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## stupoty (Jan 12, 2016)

I feel bad to mention this now you have the table back together,  on my slighhtly smaller round coloum mill theirs one position you can put the table in to make all the oil holes line up so you can oil both sets of ways at the same time, it's not marked on mine it's on the todo list next tome it gets striped down.

Looks very nice, good job by the way.

Stuart


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## motofool33 (Jan 13, 2016)

Put some feet on the base today, used 3/8 bar stock and welded them to the legs, drilled and tapped them. 

Next step to make mounts for the base,


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## motofool33 (Jan 16, 2016)

Welded in 3/8"x2" bar stock for a solid mounting instead of the previous wood base/top.

Drilled and tapped the holes 1/2x13

And rattle canned it.


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## WalterC (Mar 26, 2016)

Hows is it coming along?

I have a smaller version of that mill. Mine still had the packing grease on it but had sit in a garage for many years almost unused.

It is a good little mill for small stuff and has actually handled some heavy cuts. I'm still looking for a larger mill at the right fix it up price.


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## motofool33 (Mar 26, 2016)

Heres the current status i picked up a 6inch vise for it. And a 1948 craftsman 6" lathe project. And a 2 post lift im refurbing (rebuilt the hydraulic cylinders today). So machine tool progress is slow right now.

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## tertiaryjim (Mar 27, 2016)

Those three ball bearings probably go between the gibs and the lock screws.
As the gibs are at a 60deg angle the screw can tighten down on the ball bearing without serious galling against the gib.

Edit: Meant to ask if you've blue checked the ways and gibs.
Some machines can benefit a lot with a bit of scraping.


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## motofool33 (Mar 29, 2016)

tertiaryjim said:


> Those three ball bearings probably go between the gibs and the lock screws.
> As the gibs are at a 60deg angle the screw can tighten down on the ball bearing without serious galling against the gib.
> 
> Edit: Meant to ask if you've blue checked the ways and gibs.
> Some machines can benefit a lot with a bit of scraping.


Dont know about blue checking, i inspected the ways and knocked off any sharp edges, n cleaned them nicely  thats it. Added oil n reassembled

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## rock_breaker (Mar 29, 2016)

That looks exactly like my Enco 105-1117; must have got on a different conveyor at the factory.  Two points from posts I have read on the website. Using grease on leadscrews  or elsewhere collects fine chips and dust increasing the wear rate. Not sure where it is but another machinist posted about making U joints on the snubbing bolts under the table for the "Y" direction. He added extension shafts held up by a bracket on the main frame and knobs on the end of the extensions. The net result is that he doesn't get his hands and wrists covered with way oil when securing the table. This project is high on my things to do list.

On the Enco mill/drill the speed-pulley chart is on the folding pulley guard at a somewhat inconvenient  spot, my solution was to make charts on a spread sheet, laminate  them in plastic and put one in the tool box , the other under a magnet on the front of the machine.  Using the screws that hold the plastic front cover (depth of cut chart) I fashioned a "rube Goldberg" bracket for a digital read out for the "Z" axis. It works fairly good but the battery doesn't like cold weather.

Have a good day and welcome to the site.
Ray


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