# My first lathe is a Frejoth/Central/Grizzly 12x36 Lathe



## Sparweb (Aug 25, 2020)

Hi
I just joined H-M and I thought it would be good to introduce myself.
I just bought a 1986 Central Machinery lathe: made in Taiwan 900G which seems to be a spitting image of the Grizzly G9249 but with less safety covers!
This lathe is rather old but it shows signs of being well taken care of (the ways are shiny, the sprockets are greasy, etc.)

I have never owned a lathe before (this seemed like a nice start) but I have had many opportunities to use good lathes in the past (particularly a Colchester Master at my workplace for over 10 years).

Really looking forward to following along with the others here as they use their similar machines to learn all the tricks.  Your site has already made it easy for me to locate a user's manual (the Grizzly 9249) and a number of other resources and links that I have yet to follow.

Oh, you guys probably want photos...



Unloading from my tilting-deck flatbed.




Space already set aside for it.


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## mikey (Aug 26, 2020)

Welcome to HM!

Off to a great start!


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## matthewsx (Aug 26, 2020)

Hello and welcome.

Looks like a great starter lathe that will be hard to outgrow. Looks like you've got a good helper there too 

John


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## Sparweb (Aug 26, 2020)

Thanks.
The goal is for both myself and my son (19 years old) to learn about using this lathe.  
We spent the afternoon painting the lower table.  We haven't taken it off the dolly-wheels yet.  I want to build a back-splash wall so it's convenient to have it free to roll around a while longer.
The previous owner built this table and it's a hell of a lot sturdier than the sheet-metal stuff these lathes usually come with.  Overall I was really surprised with the condition of the lathe given its age.


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## matthewsx (Aug 26, 2020)

I would take it off the wheels and leave it far enough from the wall to work. These things are top heavy and lots of damage can be done if it falls over which could happen if a wheel gives out while moving it. Should be simple enough to move it back once the backsplash is done. I own a somewhat larger lathe that fell on it's face and am currently trying to source several pieces.

John


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## Nogoingback (Aug 26, 2020)

Welcome to the group Sparweb.  It looks like you got a good machine for your first lathe.  The stand certainly looks
like it will do the job!  Did the lathe come with a chip tray?  If not, you'll definitely need one.


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## Packard V8 (Aug 26, 2020)

We've used one of those for a few years and the two weak spots are the Y-axis power feed gear and the tailstock lock.  We can thank Grizzly for keeping parts in stock.

jack vines


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## Sparweb (Aug 26, 2020)

Thanks for the warning.  The custom base is so heavy I may be relying on it to reduce the top-heaviness - but you're still right.  And what a disaster to have one of these things to tumbling over!

The incomplete plan in my head right now is to build a back-splash panel using a T-slot board attached to a light frame on the back.  If the T-slot panel is damaged, it can easily be replaced.  I can paint it with 100 coats of paint to reduce the amount of oil soaking into it.  And I can hang pegs and boxes on to T-slot to hold tools and chuck-keys etc.
Going further with the T-slot panel idea, it might also serve well as the "hook" that keeps a chip pan in place.  If I make a big pan out of sheet metal, then of course it'll be free to float around without anything to keep it in one place.  But I can make the pan with a lip on the back edge to hook onto the T-slot panel. 
Maybe not a perfect plan, but it's what I got for now.

It's looking even better with a fresh coat of paint.

Fussed around today with fishing the wire through the walls for the new outlet.  The location I want is *just* out of reach of the 240V receptacle that's already on the wall.  Heck, that's a welding plug anyway so hardly appropriate for this little lathe.  I'm putting in a dedicated 240V receptacle for this lathe to "do it right".


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## Sparweb (Sep 16, 2020)

Hi
Quick update.
It needed a back-splash so I've added a shelf and rack to the back of it.
The panel has "t-slots" in it that I can hang shelf brackets and hooks for tools (as you can see).

Next thing to sort out is the electrical.  It's turned out to be quite glitchy.  There may be oil seeped into the limit switches so it doesn't stop right away with I lift the lever.  And getting it into reverse has been fussy.  All the switches are old and very oily, so I'm not very trustful of their integrity.
I want to replace them all.


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## Sparweb (Sep 16, 2020)

There's an oil-pan right under the electrical panel.  You re-oil it by pouring oil into the sides of the electrical panel.  Huh.
Has anyone tried separating that from the electrical panel?  It's obviously how all the oil got in the switches.  They're filthy and gooey.


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## Sparweb (Oct 4, 2020)

I have replaced all of the oil-contaminated switches.  
The emergency stop is a bit exaggerated  

The red rotary switch is a direction switch.  I would rather make a specific selection to go either forward or reverse than to rely on the travel of the start lever to perfectly land in the right catch.  There is very little resistance on the start lever when moving it from "forward" to "stop", that it is too easy to lift it all the way into "reverse".  Something that I didn't have a problem with on other lathes, but this one really has no catch in the middle to force the start lever to resist being snapped suddenly from forward to reverse.  
In the photo below you can see both forward and reverse limit switches have been removed (lower right of photo, unused pair of screws sticking out).  I've put back only one limit switch and a new one there, too.
Now to go forward the selector switch has to be rotated to the FWD position, and I don't have to fuss with the start lever slipping into the wrong position when I bump it off.


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## Sparweb (Oct 4, 2020)

With the control panel working well now, I moved on to installing a tachometer:








						Tachometer Kits / Installs
					

How difficult would it be to use one of these kits readouts to replace the one that came in my 833TV mill?  Now that I've used this thing some I'm finding the digital readout isn't very easy to read when the bright shop lights are on.  It's reading 394 RPM's in this photo....




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




That's working, mostly, but has a glitch in it.  Maybe just because it's inexpensive stuff from overseas...


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## Scra99tch (Jan 11, 2021)

Bought one several years ago had <20 hours on it.  Reall good condition and came with all attachments.  

Things I need to do.

Relocated Saddle Lock so I can insitall glass scale.  
Install DRO
Make brass oil level inserts sealed.
Level and set spindle thrust.

If I were you and your not sure if its been done is to flush the spindle bearing castings There may be leftover casting sand.  The PO may have been lucky and it had all settled or was drained.  

Another usefull update is to put a 2HP 3PH motor with VFD in it.  Your surface finish will improve and your won't have to fuss about the belt changes.

I like it but the next Japanese lathe that pops up for cheap money near me I am selling this one and upgrading.


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## Danegineering (Jan 11, 2021)

I have the Frejoth branded version of the same machine, and I’ve been very happy with it. The only potential issue I will add is that the half nut carrier engagement is a week spot. The carriers are cast, and the edge distance gets really thin, so mine cracked and wouldn’t engage. +1 for Grizzly keeping parts in stock, although I wound up doing a silicone bronze tig braze for the repair. I did order new carriers from grizzly in case it happens again.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			










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## Ken226 (Jan 11, 2021)

That open area in the middle of your stand would be a perfect place for a slide out chip drawer.


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## Sparweb (Jan 12, 2021)

I found a rubber mat which is easy enough to handle and fits nicely underneath.  It catches most of the chips, except the ones flying over my shoulder!


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