# Super Noob questions. South Bend 9A



## Threadkiller (Mar 8, 2019)

Hey all. I have a Southbend 9A lathe and I'm super new to the game so my apologies for the dumb questions. Question 1, what is the best way to keep the spindle from spinning in order to take off the chuck. I have a feeling this chuck has been on for quite some time so its probably on there pretty good. I don't want to lock it in with the back gears and break a tooth or something. Onto question number 2. The back gear engagement lever is super tight, it moves and you can engage and disengage the gears but it shouldn't be as tight as it is. Is there a way to adjust this? Thank you in advance.


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## cbellanca (Mar 8, 2019)

I would try to apply some liquid wrench at the chucks' connecton to the spindle.  Let it set for a while, then insert a short bar crosswise in the chuck jaws , with the back gear engaged lightly tap the bar with a dead blow malet.  (counter clockwise)
There are 2 oil ports, one at each end of the back gear shaft and a grease port in the center of the shaft. Apply lube to these areas ,then work the lever to distribute the lube.
Lots of  luck


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## lordbeezer (Mar 8, 2019)

I would not use back gear.seen dozens with broken teeth.soak with 50/50 mix.be patient.with hex shaft.large bolt tightened in shaft use impact gun.might take few tries..strap wrench where ever you can fit one on spindle.if you think you have to use back gear put thin strip of wood in between gears.did I mention be patient .there are no dumb questions.good luck


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## Technical Ted (Mar 8, 2019)

I agree. I've only seen one stuck chuck on my machines and that was on an Atlas lathe that I bought, fixed up and sold. I used a section of a 3/4" allen wrench in the 3 jaw chuck and an impact driver after applying Liquid Wrench and letting it soak. Don't put it into back gear, just have the belt tight and let the motor drag on it some. You could also rig up something to keep the motor pulley from rotating (or lower step pulley for that matter) and let this be your brake. Worse that will happen is the belt will slip some. Don't go nuts!

Good luck,
Ted


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## cbellanca (Mar 8, 2019)

That's what I said tap lightly.


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## markba633csi (Mar 8, 2019)

You can stuff a rag or piece of rubber in between the pulley and belt to help immobilize it.  Try some heat from a heat gun around the spindle to chuck area.  Liquid wrench or 50/50 ATF/acetone mix dripped in there.  Use a piece of wood as a lever in the chuck jaws, or a large hex wrench gripped in the jaws with a short extension pipe as a handle.
mark


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## brino (Mar 8, 2019)

another idea is an expanding tube that goes inside the spindle.

It useful as both a hand-crank for doing controlled low-speed threading up to a shoulder, and a lock when loosening stuck chucks.

Here's a couple examples:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/spindle-crank-for-south-bend-10l-lathe.66531/#post-555123
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/another-lathe-spindle-clamp.66869/

and a link to a list of similar I posted just over a year ago.....
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...-of-beall-er32-collet-chuck.66370/post-555434

-brino


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## SLK001 (Mar 8, 2019)

Next time you put on your chuck, cut a piece of wax paper to use as a "washer" between the spindle face and your chuck.  This prevents the metal to metal contact that can freeze a chuck.

And DO NOT use the back gears for holding the spindle (even small raps can fracture a tooth - they are just cast iron).  Get a strap wrench and put around the spindle cone.  This with your chuck key should be able to break the chuck free.


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## Surprman (Mar 10, 2019)

When I first got my lathe and was doing the disassembly for its refurb. I ran into the same problem.  I can’t recall how I got it loose originally but I recall it was a pain (I bought strap wrenches for the cone pulley but they were useless).   I have been procrastinating on finishing a current project because I needed to change chucks.  This post prompted me to go down and do it so I could take some pictures of the go-forward solution I came up with:

I noticed a partially drilled hole was put in the back side of the spindle (definitely before I bought it and maybe before I was even born!).   I made a slip-fit collar, drilled a hole in it the size of a drill bit that fits into the drilled hole in the spindle.  The collar is bolted to a piece of flat aluminum stock I had on hand.  To use I put the collar on the back of the spindle, line up the hole and insert the back of the drill bit in to lock the collar to the spindle shaft.   Now, all I need to do is lever the chuck against the lathe way with a crescent wrench using a block of wood to prevent damage and lift up gently on the lever arm at the back of the spindle. (it does not require a lot of force and NO banging!)  Super easy removal of the chuck (also allows for a nice snug install of the next chuck before I remove the lever arm assembly).  The snug fit of the collar prevents any damage to the spindle shaft around the partially drilled hole.

Rick


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## Threadkiller (Mar 11, 2019)

Wow, you guys are awesome. Thank you so much for all the suggestions. I'm not sure how stuck the chuck is on there as I never tried to get it off because I was unsure how. I am going to get some garage time on Tuesday evening and I will try some of your kind suggestions. I will post back with results. Thanks again.


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## Rata222 (Mar 11, 2019)

Threadkiller said:


> Onto question number 2. The back gear engagement lever is super tight, it moves and you can engage and disengage the gears but it shouldn't be as tight as it is. Is there a way to adjust this? Thank you in advance.



There is also a set screw with a  spring loaded shoe that  applies force to the shaft - to hold the gears in mesh.  This may need adjusted.  Instructions for adjusting this are on page 4 of the Army manual for the South Bend lathe.  It can be downloaded free.
Good luck..
Jim


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## Threadkiller (Mar 11, 2019)

I just searched for that manual. Thank you, that's a great resource. That adjustment may be my problem after reading the manual.


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## Threadkiller (Mar 13, 2019)

Rata222 said:


> There is also a set screw with a  spring loaded shoe that  applies force to the shaft - to hold the gears in mesh.  This may need adjusted.  Instructions for adjusting this are on page 4 of the Army manual for the South Bend lathe.  It can be downloaded free.
> Good luck..
> Jim



The adjustment worked! Thank you so much! This machine came from a brass fitting factory where they just used it to cut threads all day long every day. I guess they wanted to make sure that the back gears never got disengaged. 

I didn't get the chuck off as it was late and I was trying not to wake anyone up, plus my strap wrench is one of the cheesy rubber ones that stretches when you put any real force on it. I will try during the day with a different strap wrench.

New noob question, please ignore my ignorance as I am just trying to learn my machine. The dials on the cross slide and top slide are fixed, and I want to be able to zero them out if need be. There is a little slotted screw on the dial itself. Is this the way to zero them out? Loosen the screw and zero and tighten the screw? I tried it last night and it worked, just not sure if that's what I'm supposed to do. Kind of annoying but not a huge deal. 

Going over the machine last night made me smile. I love that thing. Old American made machines are such wonders and amazing. Its such a shame that you don't come across things built like this anymore.


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## Technical Ted (Mar 13, 2019)

That's how you adjust the dials, yes.

Ted


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