# Vee Jaws



## Jonathans (Oct 27, 2015)

I just ordered a 6" X 2" X 2" T slot quick change Monster Jaws and some low profile cap head screws to go with it, for my Kurt D688 (getting it in a couple days).  My intent is to make a set of Vee jaws for holding round stock, horizontally and vertically. Just like the typical ones you see for sale, but I want to make my own.  The Monster jaws are so reasonable, it didn't make a lot of sense to pick up raw stock.
My question is, what is the preferred way of cutting the 45 degree Vs in the jaw?  Should I use a 45 degree cutter? Should I tilt the head to 45 and just use and end mill? Is there a most sensible way to make the cut with the jaws installed in the trammed vise?


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## randyjaco (Oct 27, 2015)

It really doesn't make that much difference. If you have the 45 degree cutter use it. I'd rather tilt the head than buy a special cutter. You just have to retram the head when you finish.


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## kd4gij (Oct 27, 2015)

The preferred way to cut the V's depends on the tooling at hand. I have clamped the part in a tool makers vise and clamped that in the mill vise at a 45. If you can just use what you have. Of cores nothing wrong with buying new tools.


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## Andre (Oct 27, 2015)

I've always tilted the head.


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## 4GSR (Oct 27, 2015)

If you are lazy like I get at times, I set the part at 45 deg in the vise and mill the vee.


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## Jonathans (Oct 27, 2015)

Ok. Well I don't have a cutter that will cut a 90 degree Vee with the jaws flat, and I don't think they are even made. So, I will resort to tilting the head. After all, that's what they're made for, right?  My head won't nod, so I will have to cut the horizontal Vee  on the Y axis.  If I can get my Millrite back together before I do this I have enough travel in the Y axis to put the jaws end to end and make both cuts at the same time to keep everything lined up.  I would fasten the jaws to a flat bar using the T slot holes and cap screws.
Sound reasonable?


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## joshua43214 (Oct 27, 2015)

not a bad idea to mill or saw a slot at the bottom of the vee as well


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## JimDawson (Oct 27, 2015)

Jonathans said:


> Ok. Well I don't have a cutter that will cut a 90 degree Vee with the jaws flat, and I don't think they are even made.





http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=9404730&PMAKA=308-0216

or a 1/2 inch shank carbide router bit




http://www.routerbitworld.com/CMT-815-660-11-5-8-Diameter-90-Degree-X-1-2-Cutt-p/cmt 815.660.11.htm
.
.


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## T Bredehoft (Oct 27, 2015)

Don't over think it.  You want a V groove in one jaw, right?  It isn't really important exactly where it should be, just near the center of the jaws.  OK, mount  your new jaw at a bout 45 degrees so that you are cutting near the center. Use a half inch 2 flute end mill and make a cut about 3/4 deep. Just a little at a time, you don't want to throw it out of the vice.  Turn jaw over so  you're cutting the other side of the V and finish it. Are you making a display piece, do you want to lap it for pretty?  No, you say? OK, put it in the vice and use it. No big deal. If it's not 90º, not 45º on each side, it will still work, that's what  you want isn't it?  We seem to be nurturing a culture where hobbyists are working toward art instead of function.


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## Jonathans (Oct 27, 2015)

I was going to mill the Vee on both halves. If it is just as well to only do so to one half, I' m game for that!


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## lcorley (Oct 28, 2015)

When I use a v-block to hold round things in the vise, there's only one groove.  I think that if you groove both jaws, then you'll have an issue with the grooves not lining up.

regards,
Leon


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## David S (Oct 28, 2015)

All my machinist's vise have a horizontal and vertical V groove in the fixed yaw only.

David


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## Bill C. (Oct 28, 2015)

Jonathans said:


> I just ordered a 6" X 2" X 2" T slot quick change Monster Jaws and some low profile cap head screws to go with it, for my Kurt D688 (getting it in a couple days).  My intent is to make a set of Vee jaws for holding round stock, horizontally and vertically. Just like the typical ones you see for sale, but I want to make my own.  The Monster jaws are so reasonable, it didn't make a lot of sense to pick up raw stock.
> My question is, what is the preferred way of cutting the 45 degree Vs in the jaw?  Should I use a 45 degree cutter? Should I tilt the head to 45 and just use and end mill? Is there a most sensible way to make the cut with the jaws installed in the trammed vise?



Unless you have plans to use the 45 degree cutter besides making these "V" slots I would tilt the head.  
If I was going to make a set I would drill and ream two dowel holes both slip fit near the bottom of the jaws, say 3/8" or 1/2" diameter.  I would use three inch dowel pins while bolting the movable jaw to the vise after mounting the fixed jaw. That way they act as a movable fixture.  Be sure to remove the dowel pins before using.  

Good luck with your project and post some finished photos.


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## sanddan (Oct 28, 2015)

I just did this a week ago. I first scribed the V I wanted and then band sawed the excess material leaving about .050" to the line. I tilted the jaw in the vise and using a .750" endmill machined out the rest of the material. I didn't reposition the jaw but made both cuts with one setup.
	

		
			
		

		
	




You can see where one jaw was end milled and the other was side milled by the different looking surface finish.




The second monster jaw will get a V cut with a greater angle than 90 to accommodate larger diameter parts.


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## Jonathans (Oct 28, 2015)

I will post some pics, but it might be a little while as I am in the process of cleaning out fossilized grease and scooge from my Millrite.
I'm deliberating as to whether I should paint it prior to reassembly as I don't plan to have it apart again for a very long while!
While I was planning to take almost everyones suggestion to tilt the milling head, Jims suggesting a carbide router bit intrigued me.
I cut all sorts of aluminum on the table saw, so why not a carbide router bit?  Well, I am not much of a theoryist, so I ordered
a Whiteside 90 degree 1 1/2" V groove bit and will try it out.  If it works (taking shallow bites) the one bit will handle any size
"V" I would want.  
Sanddan, thanks for the reminder to cut must of the material away with a saw prior to milling. I often forget to do that and spend way too much time on a project.
I'll let you know how that turns out!  Thanks for all the suggestions.


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## Jonathans (Oct 28, 2015)

sanddan said:


> I just did this a week ago. I first scribed the V I wanted and then band sawed the excess material leaving about .050" to the line. I tilted the jaw in the vise and using a .750" endmill machined out the rest of the material. I didn't reposition the jaw but made both cuts with one setup.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Sanddan, so if I understand correctly, the new jaw is at a 45 degree angle in the vise and one surface was finished with the side of the endmill, and the other surface finished with the end of the endmill. Right?


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## sanddan (Oct 28, 2015)

Jonathans said:


> Sanddan, so if I understand correctly, the new jaw is at a 45 degree angle in the vise and one surface was finished with the side of the endmill, and the other surface finished with the end of the endmill. Right?



+1.

I made sure the depth of the V was within the cutting ability of my endmill so one setup would work. I needed this for machining the base plate for the wilton mini bullet vise.


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