# Colchester Chipmaster Restoration



## TorontoBuilder (Nov 7, 2022)

So this project should be good enough to merit it's own thread instead of my general thread on ongoing shop improvements.

Most of what I will be machining is small steam engines, small tools, small etching press rollers, pneumatic engravers and the like so a smaller precision lathe has been on my dream machine list. I was very excited when I found a chipmaster that I could potentially buy. The sellers were retiring at 55 and were in a hurry to just unload everything so what I thought would be 4 weeks to make arrangements because "we need this gone in a few days"...

Luckily a new acquaintance made though the Hobby Machinist was able to assist me with moving and temporary storage of the lathe until I can swap machines around and sell the existing lathe... @Mingy is a very fine fellow indeed.

The seller had the lathe out and sitting on two landscaping ties ready to be picked up by their fork lift.  That's always nice.  I botched getting the photo of it waiting to be picked up. Im an idiot. 

A little fussiness upon loading due to the lathe turning out to be 1/4" too wide to fit on the trailer with the door in place. Quickly resolved that issue by removing the door and voila... slid right in.





Loaded it so that there was some weight on the trailer tongue, and had 4 solid points of fastening to ensure a very secure load and we were road ready. We stopped a couple of kms after the start of our journey back to Brian's property to double check nothing came loose. Safety first, no one dies and no property damage is a rule I follow when making such moves.





Back at Brian's the lathe was off loaded by his tractor with forks... set unto a pallet just inside the door of his shop, and then wheeled back into the shop proper on a pallet truck.








Sadly, the lathe is not all original. I noted that the tail stock had a different serial number (G3915) than the rest of the components, which was G4024 making the year of manufacture 1967 for the lathe and 1966 for the tail stock. I'd love to know the story.


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 7, 2022)

In the items that came with the lathe I have a colchester collet chuck, but it is missing a part or I just didn't see it.

@schor who is now inactive posted this photo of a chuck similar to the one I got.... that (former?) member is only a few miles from me... I wonder what happened to the chuck and collets?





i'm pretty sure that mine is a Burnerd Multisize collet chuck with D1-3 mount. It takes EC collets. I'm missing the cap that draws the chuck closed. I hope I find that within the stuff, but I dont recall seeing it.

In case I dont see it, I hope someone can provide me with the information I need to make my own


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## MrWhoopee (Nov 7, 2022)

Love me some Colchesters, that should make a great machine.

Wouldn't it more properly be called a Swarfmaster?


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 7, 2022)

TorontoBuilder said:


> In the items that came with the lathe I have a colchester collet chuck, but it is missing a part or I just didn't see it.
> 
> @schor who is now inactive posted this photo of a chuck similar to the one I got.... that (former?) member is only a few miles from me... I wonder what happened to the chuck and collets?
> 
> ...



Good news. I can buy the chuck and collets on ebay from Quebec for only $4000 if I dont mind a divorce


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 7, 2022)

MrWhoopee said:


> Love me some Colchesters, that should make a great machine.
> 
> Wouldn't it more properly be called a Swarfmaster?


Me too. I had my eye on a few of them when this one fell into my lap.

Now my brother is on the hunt for newer student model for our main shop


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## Janderso (Nov 7, 2022)

This old Tony has that chuck.
Those collets are very interesting
I’m really looking forward to your project


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 7, 2022)

Janderso said:


> This old Tony has that chuck.
> Those collets are very interesting
> I’m really looking forward to your project



Great now I know who to ask for the dimensions of the missing piece and I can assume that what I'd get from TOT would be correct.

UPDATE:
I got a line on a used well rusted collet chuck... it comes with 10 collets and I may be able to get the dimensions I need from the rusted part


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 7, 2022)

Also discovered that the lathe comes with a Dickson quick change tool post and a number of tool holders. Yay. I'll have to figure out what size it is.

Also has this part which is unknown to me. I guess I need to buy a manual for the lathe asap


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## Beckerkumm (Nov 8, 2022)

I never realized how many drive variations there were on Chipmasters over the years.  It will be interesting to see what you have.  It sounds like the early versions take some love to keep the clutch and variator going.

Those collets are expensive and the Dickson is a nice tool post.  I'm guessing S2 in size but that might be a little large.  I have an Algra which is similar in that size and it is on the large end  for the Smart Brown 1024.


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 8, 2022)

Beckerkumm said:


> I never realized how many drive variations there were on Chipmasters over the years.  It will be interesting to see what you have.  It sounds like the early versions take some love to keep the clutch and variator going.
> 
> Those collets are expensive and the Dickson is a nice tool post.  I'm guessing S2 in size but that might be a little large.  I have an Algra which is similar in that size and it is on the large end  for the Smart Brown 1024.


I was told the clutch and variator were working fine. The company that had it barely used it. I regret not asking them how long they had it. I will be doing so shortly.


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## Beckerkumm (Nov 8, 2022)

Looks like a later one which is probably a good thing.  Third gen maybe.  Dave


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 8, 2022)

Beckerkumm said:


> Looks like a later one which is probably a good thing.  Third gen maybe.  Dave


i think so... it definitely has the best matrix clutch on it


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## Janderso (Nov 8, 2022)

TorontoBuilder said:


> I was told the clutch and variator were working fine. The company that had it barely used it. I regret not asking them how long they had it. I will be doing so shortly.


 Clausing did a great job of selling these Colchester lathes to schools. You see them in old videos and pictures.
Mine came from a local community College.
In my opinion, a lathe that was in this environment benefited from light use. Heck, schools are open what, 180 days a year??
They most likely will suffer from chuck jaw marks on the compound 
I know it would depend on the schools instructors and maintenance staff, I would assume these machines had pretty good maintenance.
Very little wear in my 50+ year old machine.


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 8, 2022)

Janderso said:


> Clausing did a great job of selling these Colchester lathes to schools. You see them in old videos and pictures.
> Mine came from a local community College.
> In my opinion, a lathe that was in this environment benefited from light use. Heck, schools are open what, 180 days a year??
> They most likely will suffer from chuck jaw marks on the compound
> ...


Same here in canada. School machines are nice. This one seems good


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## Beckerkumm (Nov 8, 2022)

I think there were two versions of the Matrix clutch used.  I have a few parts for the 2.5 size so it will be interesting to see what model you have.  There were two types of wet plates used on lathes that I've seen.  The Smart Brown used smooth copper plates and you could feather the clutch somewhat.  Colchester ( at least some of the time ) used a rough finish cross hatched plate that grabbed quickly.  I have a few of the rough plates if you find those are what you have- providing the size is correct.  Ebay-UK is a place to watch for parts.  Matrix still sells some clutch parts but as you can guess, very expensive.

Dave


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 8, 2022)

Beckerkumm said:


> I think there were two versions of the Matrix clutch used.  I have a few parts for the 2.5 size so it will be interesting to see what model you have.  There were two types of wet plates used on lathes that I've seen.  The Smart Brown used smooth copper plates and you could feather the clutch somewhat.  Colchester ( at least some of the time ) used a rough finish cross hatched plate that grabbed quickly.  I have a few of the rough plates if you find those are what you have- providing the size is correct.  Ebay-UK is a place to watch for parts.  Matrix still sells some clutch parts but as you can guess, very expensive.
> 
> Dave


Thanks, I'll definitely let you know if I need any.

It is also nice to know new parts are still available.

Sadly the lathe is being "stored" an hour and a half away, so I wont be going as often as I like to work on it. But when I go it will be long days of intense work. I'm a meticulous planner, I like to have every move to the second planned before starting a stage of work. I actually make a statement of work, and acquire all the parts or materials I'll need before I proceed, so when I get to work I can be efficient and more importantly so I dont botch anything.

First stage will be providing temporary power in order to test everything... so a VFD and my spare swiss made CH3855 208v 1.5 kw 3 phase motor will be installed to test the clutch and variator to see what needs work beyond disassembly, cleaning, stripping and painting. That I can do in a single day.

Then I'll assess what new permanent drive train will be installed. I'm leaning 3 HP 3 ph with the variator, even if I need to rebuild the variator. Would there be any benefit of installing a 5 HP motor? IDK.

Step two will be stripping off all the major components and documenting condition of everything. Then testing the paint for lead and determining the best way to strip the machine down to bare metal to prepare for addition of new filler and then paint.


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 8, 2022)

TorontoBuilder said:


> In the items that came with the lathe I have a colchester collet chuck, but it is missing a part or I just didn't see it.
> 
> @schor who is now inactive posted this photo of a chuck similar to the one I got.... that (former?) member is only a few miles from me... I wonder what happened to the chuck and collets?
> 
> ...



I did manage to find a set of collets from a vendor, I'm going to buy them and hope that the chuck cap can be restored to its former glory... good thing I have new cylindrical grinding capacity now... 

My brother is on the trail of a Colchester variant for himself... can the chuck itself be restored? Time will tell. Truthfully I dont even know if that chuck can be mounted to a D1-4 backplate of the lathe model my brother wants












I dont think the whole chuck will fit my ultra sonic cleaner. it will also require my whole supply of evaporust


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 9, 2022)

I checked my chuck, the box of all the other small things, no chuck nut.

Only two collets, 1/4" and 3/4". I'd thought maybe there were three. They're stamped with size information rather than having black oxide text on them, making them older, likely came with the lathe new along with the dickson tool post and coolant distribution piping.




I think before I strip the lathe down I will mount this incomplete chuck and regrind the internal taper since the surface could use being a might smoother. 





The collet closer ring is stuck... it does not look to be corroded but who knows. I'll try to turn it free once the chuck has been mounted in the lathe.





The D1-3 cam studs look to be in excellent condition, so there is that.






And the original, perfectly fitting wrench is actually with the chuck.


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 9, 2022)

Next up, cleaning the Dickson tool holders (Size T63), first in evaporust, then in the ultrasonic clearner. No pics of this but it is happening as I type this.

I have two holders for small morse tapers of sizes yet to be determined. I have quite a few bolts missing from these, as well as some snapped height adjustment screws so I need to purchase or make them. 

From the look of the tool holders they were only milled and hardened but not ground. So I'll grind them all to improve the finish and accuracy. 

The tool post itself is L75mm x W75mm xH63mm hence the T63 designation on the holders. 



T63 Holder dimensions (mine vary slightly from info I found published) are as follows:

Width            Height           Depth          Slot Height above compound          Slot Height          Slot Depth
 73mm           44mm           32mm                  10mm     (11)                                22mm              14mm (15)


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## Beckerkumm (Nov 9, 2022)

Is the tool holder an original Dickson ?  I thought they were imperial.  There are clones out there and I don't know if metric sizes came later.  I do know that the adjusters between Dickson and clones can be different in the thickness of the collar that tightens against the post.  Dickson's tended to be thicker than Algra for instance so a Dickson adjuster needs to be ground down to fit an Algra.  Dave


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 9, 2022)

My thoughts on the refinishing process (yes I am a planner)

Since the Chipmaster has a great splash guard, a deep rear well and already had a coolant system in it I'll be using coolant when turning some of my precision work. I've seen that state of the machine and there are plenty of chips out of the finish, gross flaking from filler letting go of the base metal, and spots where the paint, primer and filler have been entirely worn through.

That means pretty much a complete strip down to the base metal will be required in order to start fresh with a new finish that can last another 55 years.

I'm aiming for a quality finish without going totally professional on the application and high end materials side of things.

My thought is to go with two coats of rattle can applied zinc chromate primer on the base metal to provide corrosion protection, a good base for applying fillers, and a matt surface that will allow me to judge where I need to apply thick filler to porosities in the casting and to assess where there will be a benefit of using a thin filler material prior to the next steps.

After the primer and filler application I'll use both a three step finish of:

Four coats of two pack cold cure epoxy high build MIO paint to achieve a dry film thickness of about 700 microns

Two or more coats pearl automotive base coat paint

Application of new labels, gearing charts etc, decals

Two or more coats of urethane enamel clear coat

Thinking this colour scheme orange main, purple contrast and matte black on the inside of the chip tray and sump.

Not sure what that will mean for the original signage plates


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 9, 2022)

Beckerkumm said:


> Is the tool holder an original Dickson ?  I thought they were imperial.  There are clones out there and I don't know if metric sizes came later.  I do know that the adjusters between Dickson and clones can be different in the thickness of the collar that tightens against the post.  Dickson's tended to be thicker than Algra for instance so a Dickson adjuster needs to be ground down to fit an Algra.  Dave



Not having seen an original from the 1960s I could not say. I can state that the tool holders appear to be circa 1960. The bottom is thicker and more rigid on mine. The finish is basic though. I cleaned these up just enough to retouch them on the surface grinder.

So if anyone know what the original dickson tool holders look like I'd be interested to hear from you.

Mine surprised me in how one part was made, and how the manufacturer chose to grind only the necessary surfaces and even then only to the bare minimum to attain a fit within their tolerances. Other faces are left raw from what appears to me to have been a lathe facing/parting operation and a rough cut end mill.


Toolholder bottom, medium grind.





The mating tapers, medium grind. The tee slot that mates with the piston, just raw milling. Height adjustment post is a split arrangement. That was unexpected. This remaining piece is stuck still.
	

		
			
		

		
	




The top of the holder, also has medium grind.







Ends... yeah not so much. Milled and faced








The front of the tool, also has medium grind on it


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 9, 2022)

Moving right along I've been able to get some photos and dimensions of the collet chuck cap/nut from a fine fellow Chris in Victoria BC.

His chuck looks pristine. So I know what to aim for.




I guess here is a time an optical comparator would actually come in handy... to determine what thread form these threads are.





On the inner surface of the cap/nut there is a mating slot that aligns with the collet and that prevents the cap from rotating while trying to tighten the collet.

There is a relief cut at the inner corner and a chamfer at the rear edge of the 52.25mm bore. These two features leave a narrow boss proud of the rear face of the nut that bears on a narrow portion of the collet...







The rough dimensions from Chris







The first order of the day is to make a crude test ring to determine the correct thread form and pitch. I think I have a piece of 3" schedule 80 pipe, or maybe 3" schedule 80 pvc pipe with an outside dimension of 88.9 that just might work for this despite being 1mm under the overall dimension. I'll just be shy of full height threads but it should be the root diameter that matters most. 

I'm also tempted to try to 3D print a test cap out, but the thread forms are trick to reproduce properly with shrinkage and what may work in PLA may not work in reality. We shall see, since I'm creating a 3D model of the part in Fusion anyway.

Once I have what I think is the correct dimensions, form and pitch I'll buy enough hollow tool steel bar to make 3 replacement caps. One working cap, one back up cap and one to sell because this has to be a common problem.

Looking again at Chris' chuck I have to regrind mine to give it a refresh.

I'm thinking of painting the cap orange, and then I'll laser cut vinyl stencil masking film and use the purple paint to add my maker's mark to the face of the cap.


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 9, 2022)

SAD MAD UPDATE TIME 

The other day I wrote to the seller of the rusted POS collet chuck. He did not bother to respond.

The following day I called him, and had a 5 minute discussion in which I committed to buying the chuck and collets sight unseen despite the seller telling me that the chuck was seized solid.  I explained that these were no longer made (as far as I know they haven't been for a decade) and that I wanted to obtain the missing part for my chuck as part of a lathe restoration. 

The seller responded that they were then worth more because they were no longer made. I said I think not and that greedy sellers have their over-priced chucks and collets sit unsold for years and gave him an example on ebay.ca. 

I ended the conversation because he was working and kept interrupting to speak to an employee. At that time I reconfirmed that I will buy them and would be calling back to set a time to drive the long distance to pick them up as soon as I could make the time. He stated that he'd have the chuck waiting for me.

Today I went to message him to suggest that I could pick the chuck up tomorrow night after 8:00pm (because he is only available nights), and I saw that he had significantly raised the price of the chuck and collets 70% higher. I messaged him saying I see you've raised the price.. but I did not say that it appeared that he looked like he would not honour our deal or anything negative.

He replied right away... I wonder why? saying "I will honor the price for you if its still available. Come get it."

The thing is, guys like that will have you drive the long distance and then try to screw you demanding more money when you get there. And to state "If it is still available" is dishonourable and indicative of a person who wants to play games.

My reply to that was this:

"I've said I will buy it and am just swamped right now and have to find the time to get up there. 

I was just drafting a note to you that if you've raised the price I'll buy a new 5C collet chuck instead for $369.









						5C 5" Collet Chuck with Integral D1-3 Camlock Mounting, #0269-0013
					

The Accusize 5C Lathe Collet Chuck is commonly used as the following tools (and solutions): 5C Lathe Collet Chuck, 5c lathe collet chuck with 1 x 8 backing plate, etc.




					accusizetools.com
				




I have multiple sets of 5C collets already that I use in my other lathe, my spindexer on the my bridgeport mill and will use in my Harig 5C grinding fixture on the surface grinder.

I did mention that these are no longer made, you took that to mean that they had greater value, but in fact they have less, because most people have completely stopped using this old style collet system due to lack of replacement collets. Those who are buying are usually looking for only that one missing from their old set. Like I'm trying to mainly get the replacement cap. 

I merely wanted to keep my 1966 showpiece lathe complete with period hardware, but not if it costs more than I can afford. I sure don't intend to actually use vintage collets to machine things."

So, I cannot reward such people no matter how much I'd like to have the Pratt Burnerd KC15 chuck on the lathe. I'll be buying a 5C collet chuck for my actual machining efforts, and will make a new cap without the benefit of having an old rusty cap as an aide. I'll keep a single collet so I can mount the chuck when I'm not using it and it can look all period and pretty, but that's it.


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 9, 2022)

TorontoBuilder said:


> i'm pretty sure that mine is a Burnerd Multisize collet chuck with D1-3 mount. It takes EC collets. I'm missing the cap that draws the chuck closed. I hope I find that within the stuff, but I dont recall seeing it.
> 
> In case I dont see it, I hope someone can provide me with the information I need to make my own



I can confirm what I suspected. I'm surprised that under the grime lay the evidence that a 20 minute bath in the ultrasonic cleaner exposed.

"Burnerd"


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## Beckerkumm (Nov 10, 2022)

I've learned the hard way that it is best to first get the machine running, assess the mechanics and then turn some stock, and see what precision the machine has over a reasonable range, say 6" or so.  Test the tailstock and see if the barrel is tight and doesn't deflect much when the lock is tightened and see what the lathe turns using the TS .  That information determines how anal I'll need to get with the bed and saddle which in turn determines how far to go with the paint.  I need a machine to turn within a couple tenths before going to the PITA of a complete cosmetic restoration.

Dave


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 12, 2022)

Beckerkumm said:


> I've learned the hard way that it is best to first get the machine running, assess the mechanics and then turn some stock, and see what precision the machine has over a reasonable range, say 6" or so.  Test the tailstock and see if the barrel is tight and doesn't deflect much when the lock is tightened and see what the lathe turns using the TS .  That information determines how anal I'll need to get with the bed and saddle which in turn determines how far to go with the paint.  I need a machine to turn within a couple tenths before going to the PITA of a complete cosmetic restoration.
> 
> Dave



When I first saw it, I did an initial assessment without running it. Tested the carriage, the cross slide and compound which are all tight with minimal backlash and the lead screw and ways showed no sign of wear.  That initial look was all I needed to say I'm buying this, not even knowing a price. I wanted more time to assess it further just to be able to set a reasonable price to offer the seller. 

He forced my hand and implied that he'd accept a very unreasonable offer, so I made one. He accepted. For what I paid I wouldn't care if I had to replace the spindle bearings, but I know I dont have to....

From an earlier post: 
"First stage will be providing temporary power in order to test everything... "

If anything really surprising showed up then I'd very very likely pay to address it since I got this for 5 times less than the last chipmaster I saw sell in Ontario, and that was at least four years ago.

Today I saw Rustoleum hammered copper paint in the home depot, I showed it to my brother and he was like "ew" Haha he'd die if he knew what I really had in mind


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 14, 2022)

Beckerkumm said:


> I think there were two versions of the Matrix clutch used.  I have a few parts for the 2.5 size so it will be interesting to see what model you have.  There were two types of wet plates used on lathes that I've seen.  The Smart Brown used smooth copper plates and you could feather the clutch somewhat.  Colchester ( at least some of the time ) used a rough finish cross hatched plate that grabbed quickly.  I have a few of the rough plates if you find those are what you have- providing the size is correct.  Ebay-UK is a place to watch for parts.  Matrix still sells some clutch parts but as you can guess, very expensive.
> 
> Dave


Hey Dave,

I'm still waiting to hear those motor suggestions... 

BTW I like a Smart & Brown lathe but I've never seen one in person despite trying. But I have been watching Keith Appleton's channel for a long while and enjoy his. 

I do have a couple of opinions after my own conversion of a Taiwanese 12x37 lathe... 

One is that I want the ability to take far heavier cuts than I'm used to making (I'm a timid machinist) if necessary. Two is that with the cam lock spindle I want to be able to stop the spindle on a dime and reverse very quickly. So I have decided that I'll use a Teco A510 heavy duty VFD and an external braking resister. I am wondering if I could use a lower horse power motor if I ditch the variator?

If I do that I guess I need to put a countershaft in it's place?


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## Beckerkumm (Nov 15, 2022)

The motor choice is dependent on whether you keep the variator. If it is working properly, I'd keep it.  Variable speed from a variator will deliver more torque at low speed than you will get from a vfd driven motor unless you upsize the motor.  If I were swapping to a new motor, the size would be 3-5 hp as the frame sizes are the same-184.  The machine was built for 3 hp as was my 1024.  I have a 5 hp on it now but have the belt set a tad slack so it never delivers at full hp.  Either size in an 1800 rpm would be fine for that machine. That size lathe accepts 5/8" tooling and I use a Multifiz A which is supposedly limited to 3hp.  I run an E size on my CVA but the distance from the spindle to the compound allows use of 3/4" tooling.  I don't know the relative capacity or power requirement for your S63 but that is a consideration.  These machines are meant for finesse and while they will take a reasonable cut they aren't for hogging .02-.05  DOC is my range on steel.

With the variator you have little need for a wide speed range.  My CVA which has gears has a Baldor ECP 5hp I found NOS ( two actually ) for $200 each.  I plan to run it in the 40-90 hz range.  If no variator, I'd want a Vector duty motor like a Baldor IDNM, ZDNM ( really expensive and seldom found for cheap ) Allen Bradley CM 202 ( same as Baldor IDNM 3665 ), or Marathon Black or Blue Max, etc.  Those motors would need to run over a much wider range,  20-120 HZ.  That is what is in the 1024.

I'd be a little careful stopping " on a dime ".  D1-3 isn't as stout as a D1-4 and sudden stops are very hard on bearings.  I think the newer Chipmasters had a brake that activated when the clutch was released but I don't know if yours has that.  Mark set me up with two stage braking and while I like the faster stop- a couple of revolutions or so- I try to use the less quick stop most of the time.  I believe it is easier on the vfd but that is above my pay grade.

Watch for deals on NOS motors.  I paid 200-350 for the motors below and just bought a Black Max 10 hp for $200 today.  Shipping is a killer now so factor 150-200 for that.

Dave


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 15, 2022)

Beckerkumm said:


> The motor choice is dependent on whether you keep the variator. If it is working properly, I'd keep it.  Variable speed from a variator will deliver more torque at low speed than you will get from a vfd driven motor unless you upsize the motor.  If I were swapping to a new motor, the size would be 3-5 hp as the frame sizes are the same-184.  The machine was built for 3 hp as was my 1024.  I have a 5 hp on it now but have the belt set a tad slack so it never delivers at full hp.  Either size in an 1800 rpm would be fine for that machine. That size lathe accepts 5/8" tooling and I use a Multifiz A which is supposedly limited to 3hp.  I run an E size on my CVA but the distance from the spindle to the compound allows use of 3/4" tooling.  I don't know the relative capacity or power requirement for your S63 but that is a consideration.  These machines are meant for finesse and while they will take a reasonable cut they aren't for hogging .02-.05  DOC is my range on steel.
> 
> With the variator you have little need for a wide speed range.  My CVA which has gears has a Baldor ECP 5hp I found NOS ( two actually ) for $200 each.  I plan to run it in the 40-90 hz range.  If no variator, I'd want a Vector duty motor like a Baldor IDNM, ZDNM ( really expensive and seldom found for cheap ) Allen Bradley CM 202 ( same as Baldor IDNM 3665 ), or Marathon Black or Blue Max, etc.  Those motors would need to run over a much wider range,  20-120 HZ.  That is what is in the 1024.
> 
> ...


All my comments are relative to how I operated my past lathe prior to converting it to vfd, which was timidly and cautiously because I constantly expected it to blow up or the chuck to unscrew when reversed. I dont plan to abuse my new one any.

One new wrinkle I just discovered, I can run the existing 400 volts 3 phase motor on a 230v VFD with the base frequency set to 29 hz.  

This means that I can pop a VFD on the existing motor to immediately test the lathe without even removing the existing motor. This means I can proceed quicker with my assessments. I can get an idea of the torque a 230v 3 HP motor can deliver in conjunction with the variator at full speed if I were to change the motor rather than continue to operate with just a vfd with the 230v 29hz base frequency set up.

HowTo: 240V Supply to a 400V AC Motor - Application Detail




The question now is, do I "borrow" a cheap vfd from another machine, or buy a new one ?


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 15, 2022)

This lathe will be coming home sooner than expected and rushed into immediate service since my brother missed not one, but two beautiful Colchesters at auction. 
I guess in the end, we were not willing to kill for a new modern Colchester... maim someone sure, but not kill. 


I was impatient anyway and really wanted to test this baby out.


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 17, 2022)

Since my KC15 collet chuck is missing the front cap, and since the one replacement part would cost  £286 plus postage I've decided that I'll make a draw bar 5C collet. 

This will preserve as much as my distance between centers as possible for smaller bar stock and should yield the best precision. I'll machine over size, heat treat and the grind the finished dimensions. I guess now you know why I was so thrilled to get 7 grinding fixtures recently. I'll have to make a tool post grinder too for some of the internal tapers.

The 5C collet adapter slips into the 4.5MT in the spindle, and also goes over the taper D1 taper to protect the nose from damage. Of course a draw bar (not shown) will pull the 5C collet adapter and collet both tight into the spindle bore. A threaded hole(s) in the adapter will allow cap screw to be tightened and push out the collet adapter if necessary. 




The inside of the collet adapter that goes over the spindle nose will have sufficient clearance so that the adapter does not bottom out on the nose, and can only seat in the 4.5MT of the spindle. I'll first finish grind the outside of the 4.5MT on the adapter on the surface grinder, then seat the adapter into the spindle and use an internal grinding wheel on the tool post to grind the final 5C dimensions on the inside of the adapter. The goal is near perfect concentricity so I can make sweet little engine parts.


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## Beckerkumm (Nov 17, 2022)

Are your ways in good shape ?  My Smart Brown has a 5c taper which is pretty neat so I made the missing parts for the drawbar to use it as you are doing.  I found that the wear on my ways was fairly uniform over about 12" but the few inches nearest the spindle which is what are used with the collets had virtually no wear so any stock with stick out over an inch or two could vary in diameter 2-3 thou.  I went to a 5c chuck to get back into the wear area and eliminated all but about .0007 or the variation.  Evidently the collet chuck was little used, maybe due to the missing parts on the drawbar.  The compound screw was much more worn than the cross slide screw which is rare too.  Dave


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 18, 2022)

Beckerkumm said:


> Are your ways in good shape ?  My Smart Brown has a 5c taper which is pretty neat so I made the missing parts for the drawbar to use it as you are doing.  I found that the wear on my ways was fairly uniform over about 12" but the few inches nearest the spindle which is what are used with the collets had virtually no wear so any stock with stick out over an inch or two could vary in diameter 2-3 thou.  I went to a 5c chuck to get back into the wear area and eliminated all but about .0007 or the variation.  Evidently the collet chuck was little used, maybe due to the missing parts on the drawbar.  The compound screw was much more worn than the cross slide screw which is rare too.  Dave



I haven't checked the ways except for visually. They don't look worn but that doesn't mean anything.

This is going to be a precision piece. If the ways need work they will get work rather than me modifying how I make use of the lathe... at least in the long term. I'm looking at new bearings too and yes I know they're about $5000 for a set


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## Beckerkumm (Nov 18, 2022)

you may get lucky.  My experience is that spindle bearings, if still lubricated last better than the rest of the machine.  Apron oilers tend to fail causing bed wear but hopefully the spindle bearings are still good.  Dave


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 18, 2022)

This will be my last post here about the chipmaster refurbishment. Try a google search to see if I decided to create my own site to blog about it or not, I have yet to decide.


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## Beckerkumm (Nov 18, 2022)

Bummer, I was looking forward to it.  Dave


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 22, 2022)

Well until I create my own website and blog I'll add some more here to keep track of my progress and issues with refurbishing a lathe nearly as old as I am. 

I've started to systematically tear down and cleaning some parts to catalogue what is missing and what parts are essential to replace with originals in order to meet my standards for a quality restoration. 

Where original parts are no longer available I'll try to machine new parts to the original specifications, but may make minor changes to improve functionality and durability. For instance I'll be treating tool post and holders with black oxide finish. I'll be replacing the square head clamping  screws in the tool holders with cap head screws to be able to use T-handle Allen Wrenches. I'll also be replacing many of the simple oil seals with modern garter spring oil seals. 

So, the lathe has no oil in either the head stock or the gear box. The oil levels in the apron and the variator remain a mystery for now. I have ordered 5 liters of Morlina 10 for the variator and headstock. Once I have the oil I'll flush and refill the variator and headstock both to be able to test run the lathe, and to assess the state of the oil seals.

I haven't found a local supplier of ISO Tellus 68 oil for the gear box, or rather I haven't heard back from the company Shell referred me to, so I may just use an equivalent sold by Canadian Tire; Certified AW68 Anti-Wear Hydraulic Oil, it's about $100 for 18.9 liters.

I started the lathe tear down with the original Dickson tool post and tool post holders. 

My lathe came with the optional "Colchester Type No. 259" quick change tool post, aka the Dickson Tool Post in the S1 size, along with four 24850-0 Standard Tool Holders No. 83116, one 24852-0 Morse Taper Tool Holder No. 83118, and supposedly one 24851-0 Vee Tool Holder No. 83117. I may just not have noted the Vee tool holder among all the others. I'll have to check again later.




I'm missing the following original parts rom the tool post itself:

Locating Pin     24821-0, 
Collar               24819-0
Nut                  24842-0,  but have non-original nut




I may be missing one standard tool holder, and one vee tool holder, and I am definitely missing a couple of clamping screws. I checked the box of odds and sods but I didn't see anything there that obviously belonged to the tool post in there.

I ran into issues when my evaporust gel had the gel part solidify into a solid mass and render the gallon useless... that pisses me off and slows things down.

Next up will be the compound disassembly, cleaning and rust treatment.


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## Beckerkumm (Nov 22, 2022)

I forget, did we determine what threads the machine has?  Dave


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 22, 2022)

Beckerkumm said:


> I forget, did we determine what threads the machine has?  Dave


You mean what threading capabilities?

44 Imperial 2 to 120 TPI
14 metric   0.5 - 12mm

I haven't yet figured how to set up metric threading but then again, I am very happy to never thread metric


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## Beckerkumm (Nov 22, 2022)

I was referring to the type of threads for all the screws and  bolts ( Metric, Whitworth BA ).  I assume that change gears are needed for metric threading but just guessing.  Dave


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 23, 2022)

Beckerkumm said:


> I was referring to the type of threads for all the screws and  bolts ( Metric, Whitworth BA ).  I assume that change gears are needed for metric threading but just guessing.  Dave


AH... yes there is a whole list of fastener sizes in the manual.  a mix of B.A. UNC UNF in a horde of sizes.


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## Beckerkumm (Nov 23, 2022)

Interesting they converted to UNF but kept BA.  Dave


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 23, 2022)

It will be no easy feat finding all the oil and grease seals. I sure wont be able to use a single source... Even Colchester spares lists many of the parts I inquired about as "obsolete"

So far I can only find the clutch housing oil seal from Colchester spares... so I have to due the overseas shipping thing. Here comes a delay


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 26, 2022)

This will be continued here and once completed there will be a file available for download of the entire refurbishment and where I sourced everything and how I did everything exactly:









						Blind Luck Locates a Treasure
					

If you too spent over a decade looking for a reasonably priced Colchester Chipmaster lathe, you might just want to ask me "How did you find ...




					chipmasterlathe.blogspot.com


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## TorontoBuilder (Nov 28, 2022)

ever see the scenes in Saving Private Ryan, with soldiers looking down on their disemboweled guts on the ground?

This gave me a similar feeling of dread....


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