# Turning your Logan into a Horizontal boring machine....



## Richard White (richardsrelics) (Apr 12, 2017)

So my brain works like this.....I have the pulley yoke in the back of my 820 that has zero bushings.  I have been trying to figure a way to line bore the yoke.  I am thinking out loud here so tell me ifin I get too goofy.
Mount the yoke to the apron. that gives me the length of travel needed. Mount rod into spindle and turret tail stock for better rigidity.  Only issue I can see is cutter adjustments, so maybe I can use an adjustable reamer in the chuck and that other end in a steady rest....

Thoughts?


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## westsailpat (Apr 12, 2017)

That is a cool machine you have there . I'm not at all familiar with it , what is it ? The pulley yoke , is that the counter shaft bracket ? A picture would help .


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## Richard White (richardsrelics) (Apr 12, 2017)

Yes, it would be the counter shaft bracket....lol
I called it that because it is a yoke that holds the rear pulley's
Just my simple mind sorry for the cornfusion


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## westsailpat (Apr 12, 2017)

How much bigger on the holes do you have to go ?  If it were me I think I would try to get access to a mill .


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## Nogoingback (Apr 12, 2017)

So, the countershaft support is worn, and you want to bore it to press in some bushings?  Is there enough material there to safely bore it?  One possible solution would be to use a Model 200 countershaft
support: they had bushings in them.  (There was an early, and later style.)  You would have to verify that they're interchangeable though.  Probably cheap on eBay if you could find one.

How would you mount the bracket to your lathe rigidly enough to bore it?  And, um, if  you're boring the support, how do you power your lathe?


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## Richard White (richardsrelics) (Apr 13, 2017)

I have access to a mill, thinking vertically I do not have enough travel within the spindle to get both side at the same time, and they should be line bored.
Lengthwise I do not have a 90 degree Bridgeport head to use the mill as a Horizontal boring mill.  
And yes more than enough material to bore out and bush it. Actually thought of installing needle bearings, sealed of course.
And then there is the fact that If I REALLY want to go all out I can just make another one and have the sealed bearing(s) in it..
Mine has no bushing and no Gits fittings, yes I can install grease zirc's but I feel that is nothing more than a band aid fix. I am a Toolmaker by trade, so I use my lathe probably more than most, and I would use it more, but the times when I spend hours out there the counter shaft housing where the counter shaft passes thru is way warmer than I want. I replaced this shaft when I got the lathe as it was horribly worn. and it will do it again unless I correct the issue.  I have a piece of Thompson rod that is long enough and it is hardened so roller bearings should work well there... just got to think it thru before jumping in..



And Nogoing back DING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
THAT is why I ask, completely did not think of that, except I do have another lathe at work so whew! Got out of that one...LOL


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## westsailpat (Apr 13, 2017)

Like I said , I don't know anything about your machine . If it were me I would get on center of the hole at one end and bore it , flip it over and do the same . You could also make a locator dowel for the new hole to locate off of . You might have to ream out the holes a bit after the bush is installed . The problem I have with line boring is the length of the boring bar to get to the second hole , I'm thinking it would have to be a long and skinny boring bar and there would be a lot of deflection . When I first got my little Atlas I was thinking of re designing the counter shaft assy . and setting the new one up with pillow blocks . But I'm more into the vintage / original aspect of things so I kept the original .


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## ghostdncr (Apr 13, 2017)

I've done several line-boring jobs like that. The most difficult aspect for me was getting the part secured. In two cases, I made a bedding box of 1/4" plate that bolted to the crossfeed, filled it with Bondo, and sat the part in it. Once dry, the parts were secured to the carriage with U-bolts. Took a lot of fiddling and shimming, but it's a perfectly valid concept. Oh, I milled a small flat on the back of my cutter bar and set my tool depths with a step mic.


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## Chuck K (Apr 13, 2017)

I've had several 820 over the years and I've never seen one that didn't have bushings. Like has been said....pics would be great.  Even so, I would just bore them one side at a time unless they're just so worn that you can't find a center on them.


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## Richard White (richardsrelics) (Apr 14, 2017)

Ask and ye shall receive... Here is a link to the thread  that I started when I first got this lathe, in the thread you will find 2 photos that show no bushings but plenty of room for some. It has a keyway, but in that keyway was an oil wick. Well as you can see from this photo that got neglected early on..


Here is a link to the original thread. If I go the sealed bearings, I am probably going to need it line bored...

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/rebuilding-my-logan-820.40658/


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## Chuck K (Apr 14, 2017)

No doubt it would be nice to have bearings. I guess it depends on how much time you want to invest.  Me ....I would bore them and press bushings in.


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## Richard White (richardsrelics) (Apr 14, 2017)

Good Lord willing and me being able I expect another 30 years out of this machine. Plans are when I retire to use that time to make parts for others in our club of Antique Outboard enthusiast. I have contemplated pillow block bearings as they have the ones that can be so called self-centering... But that would entail a whole new part, if I go that far to make a new part I will use sealed bearings.


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## markba633csi (Apr 14, 2017)

I'd make a new one myself- here's one idea:
	

		
			
		

		
	



MS
ps I borrowed that pic from Lathes.uk- not my lathe sorry to say


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## whitmore (Apr 14, 2017)

richardsrelics said:


> ... you will find 2 photos that show no bushings but plenty of room for some. It has a keyway, but in that keyway was an oil wick. Well as you can see from this photo that got neglected early on..
> View attachment 231341
> 
> If I go the sealed bearings, I am probably going to need it line bored...


Put the shaft thru the fork, and attach one shaft end at your
tailstock; then you can use a steady rest to hold the shaft
near the OTHER end of the fork and dial it in.   The yoke
will slide on the aligned shaft.

Then a lathe is lined up for boring it for a bushing. (tool
held in the spindle, work advanced by hand, or try attaching 
somehow to the compound). 

If your transverse oil holes can be 
opened up afterward, the performance of oiled steel-on-bronze might
be good enough for a few decades.


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## Nogoingback (Apr 28, 2017)

Don't know what you decided to do here, but eBay has an early Model 200 countershaft support for sale with a starting bid of 30 bucks.  You'd need bushings and their holders
(which are also on eBay) but it might be worth considering.


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