# cleaning off rust????



## melsdad (Jan 17, 2014)

I am getting a Troyke U-15 H/V rotary table. It has been sitting indoors in a corner of the shop for 20+ years with no use. It is covered in dust and has a dark rust patina. What is a good chemical method to remove this rust.....if that is the best route to take?

I will also be looking for suggestions on the best path to take to do a full restoration on this fine tool. Pictures coming stay tuned.


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## RandyM (Jan 17, 2014)

Unfortunately you have missed some threads that discuss this very thing. But, here is one way you can get it done:

The Rust Store

The Evapo-Rust is a very good product and yes, I have used it. Some times just a light abraisive and some hard work will clean things off also.


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## melsdad (Jan 17, 2014)

Thanks Randy! I did some searches and came up empty. I will look into those products.

So I guess this is the direction to head then?


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## RandyM (Jan 17, 2014)

I hesitate to give you the green light. Are you going to tear down the unit and completely restore? Or are you just going to freshen it up a bit? A lot can be done with WD40 or a good degreaser and steel wool or scrub pad. Just depends how far you are going to get into it and what results you are shooting for.


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## melsdad (Jan 17, 2014)

I guess for now a good cleaning will do. I do want to go over the whole thing and repaint in the very near future though.


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## SE18 (Jan 17, 2014)

my understanding is that for rust there's no simple answer and everyone has their own method. Most professionals suggest using the mildest rust removal solution possible and if that doesn't work, use something stronger, with an abrasive one being last. Also, some of the stronger chemicals out there might impact the underlying steel itself. I'm not a pro, but that's my understanding.

I'd be happy to hear what others have to say about the matter, but if something can remove rust, you've certainly got to ask yourself what else it can remove.

Also, once the rust is removed, you then have to think about how quickly the rust will re-form and how soon and what to put on to prevent that (e.g. paint, some type of oil or lubricant and so on)

I don't think anyone has simple answers

I took apart entirely my 9A SB lathe and scrubbed every part in kerosene with a brass wire brush then dried it and wiped a thin coat of oil over that (forget which type) and put it all together without painting anything, b/c I bought it to use the heck out of it, not for some display model


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## melsdad (Jan 17, 2014)

What are your thoughts on using white vinegar to remove the rust? A coworker suggested it.

sent from my hand held hickymajig


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## John Hasler (Jan 17, 2014)

melsdad said:


> What are your thoughts on using white vinegar to remove the rust? A coworker suggested it.
> 
> sent from my hand held hickymajig



I've had better results with phosphoric acid.  It does not attack the steel.


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## toolman (Jan 17, 2014)

FWIW, I found the gallon jugs of Evapo-Rust at my local Harbor Freight.


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## Walltoddj (Jan 17, 2014)

I use electrolysis to clean the rust no metal removal and depending on the part it removes the Paint as well. I have a a 15 as well but horizontal so you will a plastic container big enough to submerge it. The lathe I did this fall I used a thirty gallon drum with sheets of ducting around the in side, filled it with warm water this seems to work best to remove the paint, added Arm & Hammer Heavy duty washing soap stirred. I hung the lathe from my chain hoist so it didn't rest on the bottom and was covered with water, my 2-10-50 battery charger was hooked Positive to the sheet metal and Negative to the part. You can keep an eye on it but if I started first thing in the morning it was done by the end of the day or you can leave it over night. If you a better dc power source try it the charger put out about 10-15 amps which works well. When you take out part either pressure wash it or scrub it down to remove loose rust and paint. Be sure to dry as best you can and spray or coat it with oil it will rust fast. From there you can make repairs or paint it or what ever you'd like but now it's clean.   
The pdfs may help a little one for cleaning the other is my table and the paper work for it. Remember acids eat metal as well!

Todd
	

		
			
		

		
	

View attachment Rust removal by electrolysis.pdf
View attachment Troyke.pdf


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## f350ca (Jan 17, 2014)

I just finished cleaning up a cast iron blower off a forge with molasses. Not fast but worked well and apparently doesn't touch the base metal. Here's a link to the discussion http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/19517-Rust-removal-by-Electolysis/page2


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## melsdad (Jan 18, 2014)

I promised picture here they are. This is how I received it.

*Just for reference, this thing is sitting on a 55 gallon drum dolly.*




This is after a half hour with some wd40 and gray scotch pads




sent from my hand held hickymajig


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## melsdad (Jan 18, 2014)

This is the worst damage to the table other than a few nicks and shallow drill marks in the table


I am very pleased with it so far.

sent from my hand held hickymajig


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## chuckorlando (Jan 18, 2014)

If that was my table, I would sit down for a good while with wd40 and a good stone and stone the hell out of it. Every nick creates a rise. Once you start stoning it the rises become obvious. You keep working that stone till you see no more discoloration in the table. The recesses dont matter much. 

Then I would flip it over and stone the bottom of the base in the same way.

It dont look bad at all to me.


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## melsdad (Jan 18, 2014)

That is what I planned to do Chuck. This is just a quick clean up to see what I had to deal with.


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## Rick Leslie (Jan 18, 2014)

I was hoping there was a quick and easy way to remove surface rust from machined surfaces. I have heard Coca-Cola works well as a degreaser ans rust remover. When I poured the floor for my shop, I had no idea what I was doing. Consequently, every time it rains and the temp drops, my lathes and mill gets covered with a film of moisture. I keep it hose down with WD 40 and it seems to help, but the mill table looks worse than your rotary table. I do break down and scrub it with a 3M pad occasionally to shine it back up a little, but I don't think it will ever be like new again.

If the movement if free with no binding, I would scrub the table and base as said and use that rotary table as is.


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## John Hasler (Jan 18, 2014)

Rick Leslie said:


> I was hoping there was a quick and easy way to remove surface rust from machined surfaces. I have heard Coca-Cola works well as a degreaser ans rust remover.



Coke works (poorly) as a rust remover because it contains a bit of phosphoric acid plus some of the constituents of mollasses.


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## garilla (Jan 21, 2014)

I use vinegar and salt all the time.  You can buy a gallon of vinegar for like a $1 or two.  And salt is cheap too.  So just pour in as much salt as will dissolve and if you see salt on the bottom then it is saturated.  Now don't oil the parts leave them just like you found them.  You can wire brush first if you like to knock off the heavy stuff.   Now let me tell you it is slow.  Very safe on steel only eats the rust.  Make sure whatever you put in the solution is completely covered, if a piece is sticking out it that part will rust.  After a day or two you can brush it again and you'll see rust getting taken off. So back into the soak.  Depending on how bad the rust is, surface fine rust can be gone in a day or two keep soaking and brushing every so often.  This is a poor mans method and slow.  Works good on those old tools you pick up from garage/flea markets.  Just keep it covered as that vinegar (acid) in the air isn't good for metal nearby could start to rust it.  And the good part is it doesn't go bad can reuse and reuse it gets rusty color after a while but still works.  The rust settles to the bottom and you can pour off the clear solution.   Good part is if you forget about a part for a week no damage to the steel.  I did notice once that it removed a bluing finish.  Works great for files.   Wash with water to clean and then oil.  Those 5 gallon pails with a lid work good to hold the solution, 2 gallons will cover most things.


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## Ken (Jan 22, 2014)

Hi
I have found soaking small items in cold tea works slowly but well.
Ken


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## frank r (Jan 22, 2014)

melsdad said:


> I promised picture here they are. This is how I received it.
> 
> *Just for reference, this thing is sitting on a 55 gallon drum dolly.*
> 
> ...



That cleaning looks great. Why do any more? Put it to use. Taking it apart and re-painting it is just another project with little return.


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## John Hasler (Jan 22, 2014)

melsdad said:


> I promised picture here they are. This is how I received it.
> 
> 
> 
> sent from my hand held hickymajig



If you use chemicals to remove the rust keep them away from that brass plate.


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## mikegt4 (Jan 22, 2014)

For those in the mid-west, Rural King has Evapo-Rust for about $17/gal., much cheaper than HF!

I saw in the photo of the nameplate that Troyke, like many machine tool companies past and present, is in Cincinnati. I Goggled the address and to my surprise it is only 1/4 mile from the road that I live off of. It is in an old small industrial area tucked in by a railroad yard. Pasted it a million times and never noticed. Small world.


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## rangerman (Jan 22, 2014)

I've been greatly satisfied with many chemical rust removal processes like EvapoRust, CLR, Naval Jelly, and dilute hydrochloric (muriatic) acid or vinegar.
Just make sure the type you choose are compatible with the type of metal you are cleaning. Read the instructions and do some research on what reaction effect the chemical you are using on the metal you are cleaning.

Electrolysis works too but it is very messy and not any faster or more convenient compared to the chemical processes.


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## malibulvr (Feb 19, 2014)

Never used Evaporust but have heard good things. I would try some good ol Naval Jelly/Phosphoric acid. Good luck

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-16-fl-oz-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver-Bottle-553472/203009241


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## AR1911 (Feb 21, 2014)

I've tried most of the rust-removal methods. Nothing compares to Evaporust. I am seriously addicted! I bought a pallet of it last month and shared most of it with local hobbyists. Still have some to spare if you are local to Fort Worth.

Evaporust removes all the rust, doesn't hurt anything else except rust, and doesn't care how long you leave your parts soaking. 

I am restoring 2 lathes right now. I just finished the bed of a Logan 9", and I am about to go pull the 2nd one out this morning.  The difference is night and day.


Here's the Wade as I lowered it in yesterday


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## Bill Gruby (Feb 21, 2014)

Evapo-Rust is all I use these days. It is also a green item. You can put  it right down the drain.

 "Billy G"


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## AR1911 (Feb 21, 2014)

Here's a 9" Logan bed before, soaking (yesterday) , and cleaned and painted (today). 

After this came out of the Evaporust, I hosed it off, dried it, painted the non-machined areas, and rubbed the ways down with oil.


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## autonoz (Feb 22, 2014)

Looks great. Did my logan the same way, amazing stuff


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