# Brass split nut repair



## catmechanic47 (Jan 30, 2015)

I will apolagize in advance if I'm in the wrong place for this thread.
    Well I pulled the string on the Sharp mill, so now need advise on repair. Did not intend to dismantel, but found most of the one shot oil system was junk. I was pleasently surprised at condition of ways. Did however find the X axis brass split nut very near stripped. I feel that I have the capability to make the pair of nuts, but curious to know what might be the materal of choice for this project. Oilite was mentioned but having never machined it  or seen it used in anything other than a plain bushing, question the structural strength, since it will have a flange incorporated. 
   I also need suggestions for replacement of oil lines and connections for lube system. Currently all delivery points are drilled about 7/32" with no threads.


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## Bill C. (Jan 30, 2015)

catmechanic47 said:


> I will apolagize in advance if I'm in the wrong place for this thread.
> Well I pulled the string on the Sharp mill, so now need advise on repair. Did not intend to dismantel, but found most of the one shot oil system was junk. I was pleasently surprised at condition of ways. Did however find the X axis brass split nut very near stripped. I feel that I have the capability to make the pair of nuts, but curious to know what might be the materal of choice for this project. Oilite was mentioned but having never machined it  or seen it used in anything other than a plain bushing, question the structural strength, since it will have a flange incorporated.
> I also need suggestions for replacement of oil lines and connections for lube system. Currently all delivery points are drilled about 7/32" with no threads.



I ripped the nut out on a BP years ago, I forgot to release the table clamp before hitting the power feed.  I quit that job since I am not a mechanic and had no clue how to repair it.   Also those one shot oilers are good if you get all the air out of the lines. That 7/32 diameter is interesting.  Maybe they used press fit fittings though  threaded pipe fittings would be better.


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## Kernbigo (Feb 3, 2015)

do not use oil lite it is to soft use bearing bronze


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## catmechanic47 (Feb 3, 2015)

Thanks for the input. After priceing brass, have opted to bore and sleeve flange nut, and rethread. Flange is almost 3" dia., sleeve will let me get by with 1.5" dia stock. Waiting for acme thread gauge from Amazon.


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## Kernbigo (Feb 3, 2015)

At the co. i used to work for we bushed lead screws nuts for j&l thread grinder as common practices,1 1/4 10 l.h. acme. Bored the nuts out and pressed and locketited the bearing bronze bushing, also 2 set screws on the end,then bored and taped them.Then reground the lead screw -.025 under and fitted to the nut.


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## catmechanic47 (Feb 3, 2015)

I was thinking about silver soldering the sleeve, but from what you say, that may be a little overkill. Thanks for the input.


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## Kernbigo (Feb 4, 2015)

Use green locktite (bearing retainer), and 2 sets screws in the end, between the nut and the bushing, it will never move.


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## Kevin45 (Feb 18, 2015)

Kernbigo said:


> do not use oil lite it is to soft use bearing bronze


 You have Oilite and Super Oilite, but it is bearing bronze. The only difference between bronze and Oilite is that Oilite is impregnated with lubricants. You do not want to use brass. Brass is softer than bronze. Oilite is your better bet, and Oilite IS bearing bronze.


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## catmechanic47 (Feb 19, 2015)

Kevin45 said:


> You have Oilite and Super Oilite, but it is bearing bronze. The only difference between bronze and Oilite is that Oilite is impregnated with lubricants. You do not want to use brass. Brass is softer than bronze. Oilite is your better bet, and Oilite IS bearing bronze.


Thank you for the info, but I have it all done now. The original was brass so hopfully it lasts as good as the first


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