# How to equip a PM 935



## Kamloopsendo (Feb 8, 2018)

I've planned since last spring (well tentatively at least!) to purchase a mill to go with the PM GT1340 lathe i just installed.  I've really narrowed it down to the PM 935 and based on a few reads and comments am leaning to the 3phase TS version and adding a VFD to it.

I'm really wondering what I want on it - for sure I want DRO as I LOVE it on the lathe,  I guess I'm wondering about first off power feeds, it seems everyone's first choice is the X axis so that seems a given, but what about the Y axis and then the Z axis ($630 & $750CDN with taxes in options respectively).  Not sure how much use these two would get and in particular with the Z axis there is a quill feed feature built in with 3 different feed rates already on the Z axis so I'm not really sure why one would add a Z axis power feed at any rate.

Also thoughts on vises - I note Matt sells a range and I do NOT want to purchase something and two years down the line as I figure things out realize I should have spent more.  A 6" Kurt is close to a grand yet Matt has what appears to be a very nice 6" for less than $400 US - any thoughts or experience here.

Also basic tooling - truthfully I have only a weak academic understanding (even after watching HOURS of YouTube videos) of how to run a mill so know I'll need collets, a chuck of some sort (or more than one?), some basic cutting tools ETC ETC ETC.

I mostly putter around fixing old japanese motorcycles  (reliving my childhood - my wife is uncertain that I ever left it) so mostly with aluminum but some steel will be involved.  Nothing terribly big either, maybe reface a cylinder head and not on big bikes nothing will ever be bigger than an inline Honda 4.  At some point I expect I'll add stuff to fit pistons to cylinders but not yet.

I'm kind of looking for a  list of what I need to get going so I can function without breaking the bank - the Canadian Peso is about 78 cents right now so it all hurts!!!  I know it never ends but as this is my beginning I'd like to try and to it as best I can.

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated and thanks in advance for the help.

Alex


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## davidpbest (Feb 8, 2018)

I too purchased a PM1340GT several months ago and did some serious upgrades to it - including VFD conversion and all new controls designed by Mark Jacobs:   https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/pm1340-the-best-jacobs-full-custom-edition.58507/

I also plan to buy a new mill, and have settled on the PM935, and also decided to buy the TS version and do a similar VFD conversion.   I once had to repair a Reeves drive system like on the TV version, and never again.

Even though I have yet to purchase the 935, I have been accumulating some of the parts and components for the upgrades I plan to do, including power feed on all three axis.   Based on other user feedback, and my own prior experience with Chinese-made power feed systems that don't go slow enough of give fine enough speed control for my likes, I decided to purchase better quality units made in Taiwan.   Here is what arrived last week:







I bought them through Eisen Machinery on eBay.   Total landed cost for the three was just under $1200.

I'm a big fan of Kurt vices.   I have two 6" on my RF45 (real Rong Fu) and they are terrific.

When it comes to cutting tools, that is an almost infinitely deep end of the pool.   I have plenty of favorite tools, but the list is a spreadsheet that's 1000 items long at this point.   I'm sure others can chime in on that topic who have wider experience than I do.


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## 7milesup (Feb 8, 2018)

I just purchased Matt's 833T and got his high precision 5" vise.  It seems like a really nice vise for the money and I have read on this forum other guys mentioning that the Homge vise he sells is really nice.  For what it sounds like you are going to do, one of the two vises I mentioned would fit the bill.  I see a lot of Kurt vises on auctions down here where I live with a lot of them going in the $150-ish range.
Also, another one of you Canadian fellows made a comment on another thread (which I am sure I will never find again) that it was a lot cheaper to have the electronics (power feeds, DRO's, etc) shipped directly to you from Taiwan for example than for it to come along with the machine because of the import taxes or something.  I have no idea if this is true or not.
One last thought... If you decide on getting a drill chuck for your machine, I would get an Albrecht.  I have three of them and they are amazing.  Silky smooth and just a pleasure to use.  I have picked all of mine up on auctions.

Hope that helps a little bit.  You will love your mill, that is for sure.


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## Kamloopsendo (Feb 8, 2018)

davidpbest said:


> I too purchased a PM1340GT several months ago and did some serious upgrades to it - including VFD conversion and all new controls designed by Mark Jacobs:   https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/pm1340-the-best-jacobs-full-custom-edition.58507/
> 
> I also plan to buy a new mill, and have settled on the PM935, and also decided to buy the TS version and do a similar VFD conversion.   I once had to repair a Reeves drive system like on the TV version, and never again.
> 
> ...


David:  Thanks for the comments - especially about the power feeds, I'd not really thought about the more subtle advantages of a better quality feed mechanism and the cost you quote is only marginally more than what Matt sells his units for.  Which I'm assuming from your comments are mainland chinese in origin.  I'm not surprised you like the Kurt's, I've read nothing but good comments on them so may well go that way.


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## Kamloopsendo (Feb 8, 2018)

7milesup said:


> I just purchased Matt's 833T and got his high precision 5" vise.  It seems like a really nice vise for the money and I have read on this forum other guys mentioning that the Homge vise he sells is really nice.  For what it sounds like you are going to do, one of the two vises I mentioned would fit the bill.  I see a lot of Kurt vises on auctions down here where I live with a lot of them going in the $150-ish range.
> Also, another one of you Canadian fellows made a comment on another thread (which I am sure I will never find again) that it was a lot cheaper to have the electronics (power feeds, DRO's, etc) shipped directly to you from Taiwan for example than for it to come along with the machine because of the import taxes or something.  I have no idea if this is true or not.
> One last thought... If you decide on getting a drill chuck for your machine, I would get an Albrecht.  I have three of them and they are amazing.  Silky smooth and just a pleasure to use.  I have picked all of mine up on auctions.
> 
> Hope that helps a little bit.  You will love your mill, that is for sure.



Thanks for sharing your experience with Matt's vise that's the kind of info that'll help make decisions for me.  I live in a used Machinery DESERT unfortunately and while there are auctions it would take me a month of sundays at our auction scene to find anything appropriate for my shop.  There are parts of Canada that do have a manufacturing base with a lot of stuff coming on to the market but where I live ain't one of 'em.  With the drill chucks - why three - as I said I've not run a mill but why three what are the differences?
Alex


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## wrmiller (Feb 8, 2018)

I bought the 935TS a couple years back, and the first thing I did was install a VFD and make a small control box to mount where the original fwd/off/rev switch went. Putting a VFD on a mill is much simpler than putting one on a lathe. I have had the belt in the head on the next-to-highest setting pretty much since getting the mill up and running. The only time I step down is when drilling large holes. The combination of the VFD and step pulley head is great. Simple, quiet, and cheaper to rebuild/repair should it ever need it. The only downside I have found so far is I can't figure out how to put a digital tach on this thing.

Then the first thing on the 'accessories' list was a good quality DRO. Why spend the extra money for a quality machine, only to throw a cheap DRO on it?

Need a good quality vise. I stumbled on a used Kurt 5", scarfed that up and put oversized 6" jaws on it. You will need parallels also, and 6" ones are easier to find.

I have both of PM's higher quality drill chucks and they work very, very well. Silky smooth and accurate.

Good quality collets are important IMO because you don't want any excessive TIR that may be found in the cheaper sets. Working on motorcycles and their engines, you will need a decent clamping kit as not everything will fit in your vise.

I bought a x-axis power feed from Matt at the same time I bought the mill. The vast majority of my long cuts are along the x-axis, so I figured that was the most important one to get. Later, I bought one for the z-axis because I switch back and forth between endmills and drilling a fair bit and I got tired of hand cranking that knee up and down that far. I've not felt the need to add one to the y-axis, but if I had the money laying around I would probably do it. 

There are lots of other things you may want or need of course, but these are a good start. Have fun!


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## 7milesup (Feb 8, 2018)

Kamloopsendo said:


> With the drill chucks - why three - as I said I've not run a mill but why three what are the differences?
> Alex



Well, three because I like them....LOL.    
In all seriousness, I have one with an MT taper for the tailstock of my lathe and one with an R8 for my mill.  Those two are the large series 160 Albrecht chuck.  I also have a smaller one that goes from 0" to 3/8" (I think) which has a straight shank that I can put in my 1/2" R8 collet.


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## Kamloopsendo (Feb 8, 2018)

7milesup said:


> Well, three because I like them....LOL.
> In all seriousness, I have one with an MT taper for the tailstock of my lathe and one with an R8 for my mill.  Those two are the large series 160 Albrecht chuck.  I also have a smaller one that goes from 0" to 3/8" (I think) which has a straight shank that I can put in my 1/2" R8 collet.


Thanks for the response - now I understand why the three chucks and it does make sense, I looked up prices and holy cow those are NOT cheap chucks but they do look sweet.  I have one of Matts chucks on my lathe which I am happy with so that's at least one chuck I don't have to purchase.
alex


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## Kiwi Canuck (Feb 9, 2018)

Seems the PM935 machines are shipping with the Taiwan made Align Power feed.

This is what mine came with. AL500P

But I did get my machines drop shipped direct from Taiwan so I wonder if that made a difference, I just checked the QMT website to verify and the pictures showing are not this type.

I'm sure Matt could supply the Align units if you asked.


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## Kamloopsendo (Feb 9, 2018)

Kiwi Canuck said:


> Seems the PM935 machines are shipping with the Taiwan made Align Power feed.
> 
> This is what mine came with. AL500P
> 
> ...


Interesting David, did you save $ by shipping directly here?  faster delivery?  I'm also looking at his band saw also Taiwanese made as well so might be some advantage there.  I'll have to ask.  Did you also power all axis as David Best is planning?


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## Kiwi Canuck (Feb 9, 2018)

Alex, I don't think I saved much if anything, maybe a few hundred on the entire shipment.

The broker I used took a week to clear the machines and I spent days back and forth with Matt getting paperwork as the shipment comes listed as all the individual parts so they needed the import codes for every single piece. 

I would not recommend it as a way to save money, but technically it should cut down on delivery time. 

The problem with LCL shipments is after the container arrives at the destination port (Vancouver in this case), the container gets delivered to a warehouse and then it's broken down which increases costs and time. 

We import parts from China for our business and they are also shipped LCL, after the first few shipments it all runs smoothly, with these machines it's a one-off thing so all the pain for very little gain. 

Only went with power feed on X axis and have no plans to add anymore at this time.

Cheers.

David.


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## Kamloopsendo (Feb 9, 2018)

David thanks so much for the time to respond, I now understand why you tried the import thing yourself and I'll PASS - based on your comments.  Talked to an industrial supplier in Ottawa a couple of months ago who market Lillian (a nice Taiwanese machine) units and he indicated that most of thier manual stuff goes out with Power feed on the x only so that's consistent and seems a good way to start.
Again, thanks for taking the time.
Alex


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## blue_luke (Feb 11, 2018)

7milesup said:


> Also, another one of you Canadian fellows made a comment on another thread (which I am sure I will never find again) that it was a lot cheaper to have the electronics (power feeds, DRO's, etc) shipped directly to you from Taiwan for example than for it to come along with the machine because of the import taxes or something. I have no idea if this is true or not.


That was me... and I need i have to add a bit of precision.
If you order DRO, power feeds etc... _and they are mounted already on the machine, making them actually part of the machine_,
then we almost never pay duties. 
It's when you order latter on from the US, not just Matt's, electronic equipment that you get hit with taxes and duties. I've been there!

In Canada, and most countries, if you import something from abroad that is Canada, or your own country  this is where you get hit! Canada makes very little machinery, if any! of the type we use. But Canada does have a thriving electronic industry so to me, the best way to order this type of stuff, is from ebay and Amazon and make sure the stuff does not come from the US but rather directly from Asia.
The first DRO I bought was from a private Ebay sellers who sold it _used_... Something like $200CDN, I had to pay about 70$ of taxes and duty.
I just received a 3 axis DRO with all the scales from Hong-Kong (about 340$ CDN) and I payed 27$ duty fees to DHL!


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## Kamloopsendo (Feb 12, 2018)

blue_luke said:


> That was me... and I need i have to add a bit of precision.
> If you order DRO, power feeds etc... _and they are mounted already on the machine, making them actually part of the machine_,
> then we almost never pay duties.
> It's when you order latter on from the US, not just Matt's, electronic equipment that you get hit with taxes and duties. I've been there!
> ...


Interesting 'cause that is a very different experience from mine in dealing with Matt (and other American suppliers).  I've consistently had to pay PST and GST on stuff I've brought in from the US or Asia.  I'm not aware of paying "Duties" or "Taxes" other than GST and PST on any shipment from the US and I do bring in a fair bit of stuff myself.  Sometimes - in particular with USPS the item will come thru competely without tax, not even PST or GST applied.  Mark Jacob's $900 US control system came thru completely free of tax via USPS.
Alex


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## blue_luke (Feb 12, 2018)

Kamloopsendo said:


> Interesting 'cause that is a very different experience from mine in dealing with Matt (and other American suppliers).  I've consistently had to pay PST and GST on stuff I've brought in from the US or Asia.  I'm not aware of paying "Duties" or "Taxes" other than GST and PST on any shipment from the US and I do bring in a fair bit of stuff myself.  Sometimes - in particular with USPS the item will come thru competely without tax, not even PST or GST applied.  Mark Jacob's $900 US control system came thru completely free of tax via USPS.
> Alex


You live in BC, is there HST there?
In Quebec the first time I ordered from Matt (2012) I had to pay GST and PST to the the service Canada counter.
I ordered a new machine from Matt and I had to pay only GST.
I received last week a DRO set from Hong-Kong via DHL and I paid only GST
Before Christmas I received from China via Chinapost some circuit boards and components to build audio amplifier modules and was charged GST, PST and duties!
Last year I ordered  2 kits of audio amplifier from Ebay, the guy saying that he was selling from the US to find that he sends the stuff to a US address and then have it shipped to me. I ended up paying US import taxes, and then had to pay again on the total price from the US!. And it also cost me transport from China to US, then from US to Quebec!
The guy was not dishonest, he simply thought it would be more convenient for me and him to go this route, we both were unaware of the outcome.

That is the origin of my post!

But you are right, often I will get stuff in envelopes or small boxes without any taxes, or just GST, or both GST and PST... I guess it has to go with the phase of the moon or planet alignment!!


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## Kamloopsendo (Feb 13, 2018)

blue_luke said:


> You live in BC, is there HST there?
> In Quebec the first time I ordered from Matt (2012) I had to pay GST and PST to the the service Canada counter.
> I ordered a new machine from Matt and I had to pay only GST.
> I received last week a DRO set from Hong-Kong via DHL and I paid only GST
> ...


We have GST with a separate PST and if I carry stuff across the line myself (from the US) I invariably will get nailed for both but NEVER have I paid duty.   AND if the item is small is less than $100 or so usually they just wave me thru without any taxes.  Thru the mail we're in agreement one never knows what will happen with HST, PST or GST but so far out of the US I've never been charged "duty"  although yes if the US charged a duty to import it into the US before it gets shipped to you then you have in effect paid that duty and likely PST gst HST whatever on the duty just to make it hurt a bit more!!!   Lots of fun.


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## Rich V (Feb 15, 2018)

Good choice OP, I have the same mill.
I'll give you a suggested list of tooling that I use and can't do without.
Get the DRO and power feed(s) installed by PM.
I have this vice, very high quality: Glacern Machine vice
I suggest you get a set or R8 collets and a set of ER32 collets. Amazon has a good selection
If you get the ER32 collets get the R8 - ER32 adapter fro here:  https://www.glacern.com/er_collet_chucks
Get a good quality drill chuck with an integral R8 shank. I have this one  *R8-DC500 https://www.glacern.com/drill_chucks*
Get a parallel set, Amazon again has a good selection. parallel sets
You will need a variety of mill cutter tooling. I'm partial to solid carbide as it cuts well in any material and won't dull if run dry unlike HSS. If the cost is too high then HSS end mills are fine. Buy name brand if you have the $$.
I also suggest buying some  roughing end mills These are great for fast chatter free metal removing when you need to remove a lot of material. You rough out the part then finish with a regular end mill.

That will get you started. There are lots of other accessories but I assume your not Bill Gates so spending more on tooling than the mill cost  now will be out of the question.

Best of luck, it is a fun hobby.


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## Kamloopsendo (Feb 15, 2018)

Rich V said:


> Good choice OP, I have the same mill.
> I'll give you a suggested list of tooling that I use and can't do without.
> Get the DRO and power feed(s) installed by PM.
> I have this vice, very high quality: Glacern Machine vice
> ...


Definitely right about the Bill Gates thing although I do expect to spend the cost of the mill + on tooling over the next year or so.  Thanks so much for your comments, that's exactly the kind of advice/comments I'm looking for.  Is there a reason you went with collets/drill chuck/vise other than what Matt at PM sells?  AND, thoughts on the Z & Y axis drives - glad you spent $ on them or could you have added them later?
Alex


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## mksj (Feb 15, 2018)

Are you planning on getting an 835 or 935, might edit the title if the latter.

I also have Align drives on my X and Z axis, very nicely built and they have been trouble free. They have very good speed control all the way down to zip, so recommended.  On the Glacern R8-DC500 keyless drill chuck, I have one that the shank broke and had a few other problems, I would recommend the the Llambrich. I have two of their chucks both with integrated R8 shanks, never had an issue with it over tightening and they are very smooth. You also need a keyed chuck for those few time where you are power tapping/need to reverse the chuck.  You may consider some form of power draw bar, a few people of made their own. I am using the Maxi Torque Rite Air Power Draw Bar which works great. Use to use my ER collets more, but less so now that I have with the power draw bar. Easson 12B DRO, good bang for the buck, get a battery operated DRO for spindle depth.

As others have mentioned, a good vise is critical to accurate milling. I have used a 6" through the years on both bench top and knee, just more accessories that fit and always need wider clamping. At some point I may get a second vise to hold longer stock, similar to David Best's setup. Kurt DX6 would be my first choice, Glacern vises are also highly rated, just avoid scrimping on the vise. Good tooling, parallels in different thicknesses, end mills (3 flute for aluminum and softer materials, 4-5 flute for steel/alloys), 1/2 and 3/4" rougher (brands to consider Minicut, Niagara, Melin, Hanita/Widia, Garr, etc.), decent set of R8 collets (vertex, Lyndex), 0.0001" dial and test indicators for alignment/set-up, good drill sets (stuby, number/letter, metric, etc.), shell mills (like a 3" Glacern FM45, FM90 and get separate arbor shell mill types,  two sets of nserts), boring head (2 or 3") along with cutters, annular cutters for cutting holes (these can fit in a 3/4" R8 collet), a few other items.....


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## Kamloopsendo (Feb 16, 2018)

mksj said:


> Are you planning on getting an 835 or 935, might edit the title if the latter.
> 
> I also have Align drives on my X and Z axis, very nicely built and they have been trouble free. They have very good speed control all the way down to zip, so recommended.  On the Glacern R8-DC500 keyless drill chuck, I have one that the shank broke and had a few other problems, I would recommend the the Llambrich. I have two of their chucks both with integrated R8 shanks, never had an issue with it over tightening and they are very smooth. You also need a keyed chuck for those few time where you are power tapping/need to reverse the chuck.  You may consider some form of power draw bar, a few people of made their own. I am using the Maxi Torque Rite Air Power Draw Bar which works great. Use to use my ER collets more, but less so now that I have with the power draw bar. Easson 12B DRO, good bang for the buck, get a battery operated DRO for spindle depth.
> 
> As others have mentioned, a good vise is critical to accurate milling. I have used a 6" through the years on both bench top and knee, just more accessories that fit and always need wider clamping. At some point I may get a second vise to hold longer stock, similar to David Best's setup. Kurt DX6 would be my first choice, Glacern vises are also highly rated, just avoid scrimping on the vise. Good tooling, parallels in different thicknesses, end mills (3 flute for aluminum and softer materials, 4-5 flute for steel/alloys), 1/2 and 3/4" rougher (brands to consider Minicut, Niagara, Melin, Hanita/Widia, Garr, etc.), decent set of R8 collets (vertex, Lyndex), 0.0001" dial and test indicators for alignment/set-up, good drill sets (stuby, number/letter, metric, etc.), shell mills (like a 3" Glacern FM45, FM90 and get separate arbor shell mill types,  two sets of nserts), boring head (2 or 3") along with cutters, annular cutters for cutting holes (these can fit in a 3/4" R8 collet), a few other items.....





mksj said:


> Are you planning on getting an 835 or 935, might edit the title if the latter.
> 
> I also have Align drives on my X and Z axis, very nicely built and they have been trouble free. They have very good speed control all the way down to zip, so recommended.  On the Glacern R8-DC500 keyless drill chuck, I have one that the shank broke and had a few other problems, I would recommend the the Llambrich. I have two of their chucks both with integrated R8 shanks, never had an issue with it over tightening and they are very smooth. You also need a keyed chuck for those few time where you are power tapping/need to reverse the chuck.  You may consider some form of power draw bar, a few people of made their own. I am using the Maxi Torque Rite Air Power Draw Bar which works great. Use to use my ER collets more, but less so now that I have with the power draw bar. Easson 12B DRO, good bang for the buck, get a battery operated DRO for spindle depth.
> 
> As others have mentioned, a good vise is critical to accurate milling. I have used a 6" through the years on both bench top and knee, just more accessories that fit and always need wider clamping. At some point I may get a second vise to hold longer stock, similar to David Best's setup. Kurt DX6 would be my first choice, Glacern vises are also highly rated, just avoid scrimping on the vise. Good tooling, parallels in different thicknesses, end mills (3 flute for aluminum and softer materials, 4-5 flute for steel/alloys), 1/2 and 3/4" rougher (brands to consider Minicut, Niagara, Melin, Hanita/Widia, Garr, etc.), decent set of R8 collets (vertex, Lyndex), 0.0001" dial and test indicators for alignment/set-up, good drill sets (stuby, number/letter, metric, etc.), shell mills (like a 3" Glacern FM45, FM90 and get separate arbor shell mill types,  two sets of nserts), boring head (2 or 3") along with cutters, annular cutters for cutting holes (these can fit in a 3/4" R8 collet), a few other items.....


Indeed Mark I did mean 935 not 835, thanks for the catch - I've corrected it in the title.  Thanks for taking the time to outline your thoughts, I'm was simply going to go with Matt's vise and drives and drill chucks but I'll have a look at the items you and David and Rich have listed and maybe look to spend a bit more but hopefully end up with a better result.   No one has listed an index head as an item they'd want  or a rotary table both of which I kind of thought would be high on the list.  
Alex


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## Rich V (Feb 16, 2018)

Kamloopsendo said:


> Definitely right about the Bill Gates thing although I do expect to spend the cost of the mill + on tooling over the next year or so.  Thanks so much for your comments, that's exactly the kind of advice/comments I'm looking for.  Is there a reason you went with collets/drill chuck/vise other than what Matt at PM sells?  AND, thoughts on the Z & Y axis drives - glad you spent $ on them or could you have added them later?
> Alex


.

When I purchased my mill I don't think Matt had the tooling listed on the PM website.  I was familiar with Glacern and they run periodic sales so I have a number of their tools.

I would get the drives you want installed by PM with the mill purchase. They are very handy and in my opinion necessary for some mill opps.


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## Rich V (Feb 16, 2018)

mksj said:


> On the Glacern R8-DC500 keyless drill chuck, I have one that the shank broke and had a few other problems,



Mark
How did you manage to break an R8 shank??


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## wrmiller (Feb 16, 2018)

Kamloopsendo said:


> No one has listed an index head as an item they'd want  or a rotary table both of which I kind of thought would be high on the list.
> Alex



I have both a rotary table and BS-1 indexer for my 935, but don't consider them items that I needed right away when I bought my machines. My 'must have' first items were cutters, collets, chucks, and a vise. And a good quality DRO. 

I added the power feeds on my X and Z axis as funds permitted. My little 6" rotary table was a carry-over from a smaller machine, and I only just recently acquired the index head to do some more complex setups.

Acquiring tools/tooling is an ongoing process that lasts long after the initial machine purchase.


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## mksj (Feb 16, 2018)

On the Glacern keyless chuck the the arbor fractured probably from the clamping force when self tightening. In the picture below you can see the fractures extend from each jaw. I also did not care for the clamping and using a pin type wrench, had a few times where the chuck over tightened and was difficult to untighten.  I prefer the slotted wrench used on the Llambrich, and I find it holds bits more securely. I think the Glacern is fine for most small bits up to 1/2", just do not try to use it for hole saws or anything larger.  I now only use a keyed chuck for hole saws or any bit/shank with flutes like silver & deming drills.

Alex, I agree with Bill, a rotary table is very handy, I have a Super Dex or Super indexing type which is both vernier and has indexing plates. It comes with an 8" table and also a 6" set-tru type 3J scroll chuck. Very handy, and also very heavy. I only use it for holding larger stock like making a lathe spider or I need very fine indexing movement for scribing dials. Otherwise for stock 1" and smaller I use 5C collets in collet blocks, or one can get an indexer.  So a rotary table/indexer is nice, but not a must have depending on the work you plan on doing and looking at cost/use ratio. Also shipping is killer on the rotary tables.


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## Kamloopsendo (Feb 17, 2018)

wrmiller said:


> I have both a rotary table and BS-1 indexer for my 935, but don't consider them items that I needed right away when I bought my machines. My 'must have' first items were cutters, collets, chucks, and a vise. And a good quality DRO.
> 
> I added the power feeds on my X and Z axis as funds permitted. My little 6" rotary table was a carry-over from a smaller machine, and I only just recently acquired the index head to do some more complex setups.
> 
> Acquiring tools/tooling is an ongoing process that lasts long after the initial machine purchase.


As you note tools are an ongoing never ending quest, I'm just trying to save myself a bit of $ on shipping which into Canada is often a bit more both in $ and hassle.  That said it's only true if the stuff comes in one order - in this case from PM.  So a big part of how much I get up front is tied to how much I use Matt as a supplier.


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## Kamloopsendo (Feb 18, 2018)

Well, I did commit to a 935 TS mill from Matt and also ordered his band saw as well.  Shipping won't be for a couple of months so I've got time to stew about decsions on power feeds, chucks, etc.  I did order it with the Easson DRO tho' as I've one on my lathe and like it.  Thanks to Both the David's, Mark, Bill, Rich, Blue-Luke and 7 miles up for the input.   The time and energy and help are appreciated.
Alex


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## Kamloopsendo (Feb 18, 2018)

Kiwi Canuck said:


> Alex, I don't think I saved much if anything, maybe a few hundred on the entire shipment.
> 
> The broker I used took a week to clear the machines and I spent days back and forth with Matt getting paperwork as the shipment comes listed as all the individual parts so they needed the import codes for every single piece.
> 
> ...


With the mill finally on order I'm going thru wiring diagrams and ordering parts to hook up the VFD.   Hopefully a bit smoother than my experience with the lathe!!  Thanks for sending that info David, much appreciated.


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## Kamloopsendo (Feb 18, 2018)

davidpbest said:


> I too purchased a PM1340GT several months ago and did some serious upgrades to it - including VFD conversion and all new controls designed by Mark Jacobs:   https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/pm1340-the-best-jacobs-full-custom-edition.58507/
> 
> I also plan to buy a new mill, and have settled on the PM935, and also decided to buy the TS version and do a similar VFD conversion.   I once had to repair a Reeves drive system like on the TV version, and never again.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments David, I looked into those drive that you and Mark like and only a bit more than the drives PM sell so think I'll go with the Align drives.  Also read enough to convince me that a Kurt vise might be worth the extra (maybe just peace of mind but do sound better) so that decision is made as well.


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## ddickey (Mar 25, 2018)

What kind of VFD did you end up buying?


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## Kamloopsendo (Mar 25, 2018)

Bit of an update here in that I've decided to get the PM949 rather than the 835 as I've kind of figured out how to re-arrange thing in the shop to fit the larger mill.   Same head on it as the 935 and I'm going with the Hitachi unit Matt sells as I have a Hitachi on my Lathe and am happy with it and have at least a basic (very) idea of how to work with and program it (Largely due very detailed guidance from Mark Jacobs).  I'm shipping the mill with a bandsaw I'm also getting from Matt and the Bandsaw is on backorder - hence the delay in getting it on site.
Alex


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## Kamloopsendo (Mar 25, 2018)

On the drive issue Matt has advised me that he'll have Align drives available in the near future.  A number of members have utilized these and spoken highly of them so that's the way I'm going for X & Z drives.  I don't plan on a y axis drive at this point.
Alex


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## ddickey (Mar 25, 2018)

Matt sells VFD's?


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## Kamloopsendo (Mar 25, 2018)

Sure does, good price and great service - I got my Hitachi VFD for my lathe from him.
Alex


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