# Show us your South Bend Lathe



## HMF

We take great pride in our machines!

This is the thread to post photos of your beloved South Bend lathes, show "before" and "after photos and make our mouths water with the tooling and accessories you have accumulated for your machine.

A picture is worth a thousand words, but some captions would be awfully nice too!

So come on....let's see what you got!


Best,

Nelson


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## smithdoor

South Bend 1949 
9 x 42 24 CC
Rebuilt 2006


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## aametalmaster

Here is my daily user my 1974 SB10K. Just happen to be winding mig wire in this pic.
And my 1941 "S" 10L. USN model sold to GE
And my 1919 15" x 6' From the Buckeye Automotive Company...Bob


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## dcms

I enjoyed your restoration. Great job!

How do you remove the drawers to the metal cabinet on the 10k lathe you included in the post? 

I have a similar lathe and want to remove the drawers in my lathe and repaint. 

Don't see how the slides can be unlatched to remove the drawers??

Your suggestions are appreciated.


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## AR1911

My 9A


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## pjf134

Mine is a SB9A w/3 1/2' bed 1968 year, picked it up in Feb. and tore it apart to fix and paint, finished it up in May. I added a QCTP, live center and drill chuck and some tooling. I am going to make drawers for the table, got the wood, but did not do it yet. The lathe is a little messy now, but nowhere to put the stuff yet until I make some drawers. The first pic is the first day I got it, the second pic is when I was making something on it in June.
 Paul


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## furpo

Just received the Serial Card for my 16”/24” x 10’ South Bend 79833
Looks like it was born a 16” and the 24” added later. 
It has only moved 60 miles in the last 75 years and I moved it 45 miles of the 75 mi.


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## coop

1942 9x36 Model A


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## terry_g

I found this lathe about 15 years ago. It came on a pallet with no tooling and a 3 jaw chuck missing a set of jaws.
It was in good condition otherwise.The bench and most of the tooling I built for it.
 I replaced it with an Asian machine a couple years ago.
It was metric and could not cut an imperial thread. 

Terry


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## geotek

Back in 1998 I ran into a great deal on a SB lathe.  Below is part of the article I wrote about it.
............
A few weeks ago I asked my junk man if he ever picked-up any machinery, and if so bring it by. It may be worth more to me than the scrap yard. He started talking about some old computer printers and stuff he had found, but I explained that I was looking for machine shop stuff, you know, cast iron. He told me he had an old "metal cuttin machin", he didn't know what it was, just that it was 3-phase and nobody wanted it. I told him 3-phase was not a problem, and questioned him some more. He open his glove box and handed me a bent up piece of brass. I looked at the plate and at the top center it said (in bold letters) "South Bend Lathe Works". I told him I was indeed interested. The machine was in a pile of old chain link fence and posts only about two blocks away. It was still on a very large oak pallet, and held down with some large steel straps. I couldn't see it very well, the plastic tarp was disintegrating, but I could see that there was indeed a lathe under all of that. I offer him $250 for the mess, and he gladly accepted the offer. I went to get my engine hoist back from a friend while he and his helper loaded the lathe on his truck with the help of a large front end loader. We got the lathe over to my storage warehouse and unloaded it with the help of the engine hoist. Only then was I able to really get a look at my find. The lathe was a South Bend Heavy 10. It had a Springfield Armory property tag. I'm sure the pallet was the one the government had mounted it to when it was surplused. A quick inventory showed that it had the following tooling: 3-jaw, 4-jaw, hand-wheel collet closer, 17 collets, face plate, drive plate, threading dial, micrometer carriage stop, collet rack, and bunch of other small stuff. A few items were very rusty, but most of the tooling and the lathe itself was covered with cosmoline. The lathe cleaned-up nicely, and with a new paint job looks like new. Most of the ways still have frosting. I removed the 45 year old 3-phase motor and installed a new single phase unit. The machine runs beautifully. BTW, The lathe is on a cabinet stand with three drawers. I even have the key for the drawers! 
.................
Here is what the lathe looked like after I scraped off much of the dirt, and after I did a complete tear down and rebuild.  I sold the lathe years ago.  I was hoping to find someone who understood the significance of the Springfield Armory tag, but the guy who bought it was more interested in building model steam engines than gunsmithing.


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## zetec7

I'm pretty new to machining, and I'm almost ashamed to show my lathe (compared to the rest of the machines on here, that are so clean that they look like they were just uncrated from the factory), but what the heck.  I love the old girl.

It's a 1947 South Bend 9" X 54" "C" model.  I've acquired a milling attachment for it, made a ball-turning attachment, and it's now sporting a QCTP.  The old girl (my wife calls it my mistress) is unrestored - the paint is original.  When I got it, it had very little tooling beyond a 3-jaw and 4-jaw, and most of its change gears were missing (I have them all now), but there was absolutely zero measurable spindle runout, and the bed ways were good except for the odd ding near the chuck (closer to the chuck, though, than I'm likely to cut), and most of the scrape marks still clear.

There have been several improvements made since the pictures were taken (stainless steel chip pan now, instead of the Tupperware container lid in the picture, nicer lamp, overhead radiant heater for those cold nights in the shop, Phase II toolpost, etc.)

One day I'll probably restore it...but since I use it pretty much daily, I hate to take it out of service...


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## 1 of U

Here's a pic of my 13 SB

1 of U


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## ScrapMetal

My SB 11" circa 1939 Model 411A



I really have to take a pic of how I've got it set up now. 

-Ron


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## vstewart5

Ran accross this thread and have to chime in..Im a newbie from Ohio and am just starting on going thru my 1941 south bend lathe..It's a model 183-B 14-1/2 with a 1.5HP 3 phase motor...Has a few issues and in the process of tearing it down and repainting and fixing the issues...I will post more pict's as it progresses along...


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## Old Iron

I got this off ebay for 600.00 a few months ago, The different color stuff is from another 13" I was working on. But the bad was well worn so when this one came along I went after it.




Collet Closer stud and nut.







Tool Cart I setting up for it Ya I know its a mess.


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## Old Iron

Couldn't get it to take these 2 pictures of the cart.







Paul


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## ScrapMetal

I finally took some new pics!  :biggrin:

Here is a copy of the card from SB/Grizzly...
Now, in all it's glory (and detail)...
-Ron


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## vstewart5

Well it wont let me post updated pictures but I have started on tearing it apart and stripping the paint off...Slow progress...!!!
View attachment 28697


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## joebiplane

Hey South benders !

Is there a list or chart that tells what year a South bend was built by the serial Number???

I am looking for a 1942 lathe to restore as a :drink2:*70th *Birthday / Christmas  gift to myself
:tiphat: thanks...joe  diamond@easyliving.com


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## ScrapMetal

According to Steve Well's compilation: http://wswells.com/serial_number.html  It looks like the '42 models started somewhere around serial #122000.

Once you find one that you like you can get a copy of the original factory index card for that lathe from Grizzly (who owns the rights to SB now) to verify the year.  Here's the "card" from my '39...



As you can see, it has information that can be real useful if you want to restore it to how it came from the factory.

Hope that helps,

-Ron


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## joebiplane

Thanks Scrap,
Exactly the information i was hoping for.
grizzly charges $25.00  for the ser # card ???  is that correct?
joe


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## vstewart5

I copied this info and hope it helps also!!! 
Although South Bend have  comprehensive records of their lathe production (and can quote an exact  dispatch date for almost every machine ever made) it is possible, thanks  to the efforts of Geoff Swayze, to calculate an approximate date of  manufacture - to plus or minus one year or so - if you enter the serial  number (stamped at the tailstock-end of the bed) raised to the power of  0.0059 then multiplied by 1812.
The procedure is as follows:
On a  scientific calculator (the one with any version of Windows will suffice)  enter the serial number, say 84243; then hit the X^Y key (X with a  superscript Y); type in 0.0059 then hit the "=" key followed by the  multiplication key (*) followed by 1812. You should obtain 1937.4 which  is within one year of the real date of manufacture, 1938.
Until a  change of policy in 1947 - and a production total of approximately  186,500 lathes  - South Bend used a simple sequential numbering system,  but after that Serials were broken down between different types of lathe  with numbers assigned sequentially within a group.  Adding the highest  number seen in each category post-1947 to pre-1947, gives a total  production of just a over 330,000; however, by the 1970s, South Bend's  range was very limited and most of the lathes produced during the last  30 years of the 20th century were the eternally-popular model 10K - a  direct descendent of the original 9-inch lathe of the 1030s.
On many  South Bend lathes, especially those built before the early 1920s, while  the serial number is stamped into the end of the bed at the tailstock  end, numbers are also stamped into many other parts - sometimes, but not  necessarily, the last three digits of the serial number. These would  have been used to identify components taken off an initially assembled  lathe for final finishing or painting. Such items might have been
Examples  include the top of the leadscrew hanger bearing bracket, the  changewheel bracket, the leadscrew, on the concealed surface of the rack  where it abuts against the bed and on the inside of the apron, etc,


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## ScrapMetal

joebiplane said:


> Thanks Scrap,
> Exactly the information i was hoping for.
> grizzly charges $25.00  for the ser # card ???  is that correct?
> joe



Glad to help.  Grizzly does charge the $25 and here's the link: http://www.grizzly.com/products/southbendserialcard.aspx

Good hunting! :thumbzup:

-Ron


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## Pacer

I bought this 1943 Heavy 10L with 4 1/2 foot bed in May - it was sorely mistreated, with the operators not knowing what an oil can was, or how to use one. Surprisingly tho, it was still in its very original state - never oiled it, and never repaired anything either... which was good, no cobbled up, butchered patches.
So I set out to do a complete tear down, replacing or repairing through out (which was a LOT of replacing) and new paint on reassembly. There are a lot of SB parts floating around, but they can be exasperating to find for your particular lathe, and, can be quite pricey when finally found. So, I made anything that was at all practical/possible in my home shop - 7 gears, about 9 shafts, installing oilite bushings in worn castings, rebuild tail stock and apron, etc. Purchased new lead screw and cross/compound screws and nuts, etc, etc, somewhere around $2500 worth of parts, etc, not counting the hundreds of hours of labor put in it. But, I must stress that my labor on this, and other tools, is my hobby (passion?) and I wouldnt have it any other way...

This was taken shortly after it was unloaded, not only a lot of dirt/crud, but a lot of rust - the tail stock & chuck were removed for hauling...



This is it when I finished it in mid Sept. I added a lot of personal stuff - VFD, the chip tray, the back splash & shelf, QCTP and tool caddy (just behind the chuck) also, note just under the gear box the little tray I fashioned to catch the constant oil drips that an old SB puts out (that is, if you oil it!)




Saw in one of the previous post the shipping card from SB showing all the info on date shipped, who to, bed length, etc. I sent to Grizz and got mine too...




Heres a pic of the head stock gear train and gear box giving an idea of some of the work that can go in just this section of the lathe...




And, sprinkled all through the tear down, you will run into stuff like this tail stock clamp plate in this pitiful state of "repair" and the replacement I made...


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## joebiplane

Coop,

You have my dream machine  (except I want one to restore myself )....1942 model A  on April 1st your machine and I will be  " 70 " .  Sure wish I looked as good as your SB
Joebiplane


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## lazyLathe

:thumbzup:Now that is what i call a restoration!!!!:worship:

Andrew


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## HMF

Made a great article for the Home Page!


:tiphat:
Nelson


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## irishwoodsman

joebiplane said:


> Coop,
> 
> You have my dream machine  (except I want one to restore myself )....1942 model A  on April 1st your machine and I will be  " 70 " .  Sure wish I looked as good as your SB
> Joebiplane


 great job on the restoration, patience always pays off.


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## Tommie D

Here she is! My model B after 20+ years of neglect (by me). I bought this back in the late 80's to do a side job so that it could pay for it's self. I used it for a few weeks then parked it in my sister's garage where it has been ever since. Tonight I went over and moved a bunch of "stuff" that was in front of it and pulled the cover off of it. To my suprise it wasen't a total rust bucket. From what I could find out it's a 1946 model. Serial number 178706, The numbers across on the other side of the bed are B101, Their is very poor lighting in her garage but when I looked at the change gear cover it had what looks like catalog number 477Z and bed length 3 1/2 ft. Their was even the original can of SouthBend spindle oil sitting on the bench. Right after I bought it I remember that I contacted SouthBend and ordered a parts manual and a few other things for it. I will have to look around for that stuff but I have a feeling it is in one of the many boxes I left at my old house. I sure am glad my oldest son still lives there.


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## tommied

Her's mine.


tommie


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## Tommie D

WoW,  From one Tommie to another, Nice lathe! i'm jealous


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## tommied

Thanks, notice I am a tommie d but list it as one.   tommie


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## McRuff

Here is my 1943 3' Model B South Bend 9". I converted it to a Model A, added ball oilers to the 4 corners of the carriage, added oilers to the tailstock base, bushed the idler gear, added a quick change reversing lever, Serpentine drive belt, needle bearing take up nut and it now sports a large dial on the crossfeed that measures .100" per revolution, when I get the large dial on the compound I will take a new picture. I also havea set of Shumatech DRO's for the bed, but took them off because I didn't like how the Z scale fit and am currently reworking them.


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## atwatterkent

Here's my SB9 and 10K. The 1947, 9" which was my first machine, came with basic tooling. The 1960  10K came from an old town hardware store display completely tooled


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## ronaldf

Mine is a 11 inch ,with a 5 foot bed.  1929 model , serial number 41090, catalog number248-B. I will be looking for tooling. and some parts.  The lathe ended up on it's side during shipment.


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## Bobby Bailey

Here we go, My 10L with 3.5' bed. Shipped 19 Aug.1981. 
Bobby


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## lazyLathe

Check the front way on the far right for a serial number.
That will hep a lot.

Nice lathe by the way!!

Andrew


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## Bobby Bailey

Looks like a pretty nice 10K
Bobby


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## macrnr

Here are some pictures of my South Bend 10K. I picked it up at auction from the USAF. It was a little rusty from being left out at the auction yard for a month, but other than that it is a fine machine that cleaned up very well. This replaced the 9 X 20 Central Machinery lathe I learned on, Oh what a difference! Since these pictures where taken, I have acquired a new Cushman 3 jaw 5" chuck, a South Bend 4 jaw 6" chuck, an 8" face plate, a 6" dog plate, a Phase II AXA quick Change tool post with tool holders, and an ETM collet set. This is an expensive hobby, but it is very satisfying to put together & maintain such a fine example of American Iron. I believe from the information acquired from the South Bend Forum this was one of the last machines built, 1990.


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## jocat54

This is my Southbend 9A-I had it completely apart and cleaned and replaced all the felts and a few gears (bull and back gear). I should have taken before pictures but didn't-There was about 75 years of gunk and old paint (at least 3 different layers orange-red-blue) I believe it is a 1945 by the serial number.

Still can't make chips yet, still need to find a chuck and tool post.


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## joebiplane

Here's my latest project completed and ready for market
its a 1944  SB 9" that was a model "B"  and was converted to a Model "A"  during the restoration.
The ways were so beautiful the Upgrade was deemed " necessary"  It is light on tooling  only a   5"  3 jaw self centering chuck,   and a 6"  independant 4 jaw chuck.... lantern tool post  and Armstrong 1/4" bit holder.  no rests  dead center .but the condition of every part of the Lathe proper is fantastic.
All felts, gaskets and oil retainer plugs were replaced during assemply after complete paint stripping  and repaint with rustoleum industrial repaint.   its a  "* Blood Red*"jewel


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## pineyfolks

Heres mine in all its mess , 16"swing 
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 10' bed


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## xalky

joebiplane said:


> Here's my latest project completed and ready for market
> its a 1944  SB 9" that was a model "B"  and was converted to a Model "A"  during the restoration.
> The ways were so beautiful the Upgrade was deemed " necessary"  It is light on tooling  only a   5"  3 jaw self centering chuck,   and a 6"  independant 4 jaw chuck.... lantern tool post  and Armstrong 1/4" bit holder.  no rests  dead center .but the condition of every part of the Lathe proper is fantastic.
> All felts, gaskets and oil retainer plugs were replaced during assemply after complete paint stripping  and repaint with rustoleum industrial repaint.   its a  "* Blood Red*"jewel



I'd love to convert my 1938 model b to a model a with the quick change gears. Is it an easy conversion ? Where would I go about looking for the gear box?


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## OldMachinist

Here's my 1945 16" x 8' South Bend.


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## pineyfolks

OldMachinist said:


> Here's my 1945 16" x 8' South Bend.



I'd feel right at home there!


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## CMAGIC0

I have a Model 34 - 0 ,  serial number 18943.  This has an odd spindel size of 1 3/4 X 8 tpi. It also has a lead screw of 1 inch X 8 tpi and I need a gear for this application. The threading gear that I have has 24 teeth on it and wont come close to turning much less matching the acme screw thread. The bull gear has a bolt threaded into it, and I can get the apron to travel only with the half nut lever. This is going to be a project.

Martin


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## jduncan

I never posted mine here....purchased from a Tech School which was not going to teach metalworking any more.  I got my lathe and a round ram '48 Bridgeport mill for $1200.  I have the tailstock but it wasn't on the machine when we moved it there.


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## Tamper84

jduncan said:


> I never posted mine here....purchased from a Tech School which was not going to teach metalworking any more.  I got my lathe and a round ram '48 Bridgeport mill for $1200.  I have the tailstock but it wasn't on the machine when we moved it there.



1200 for both!!!! Do they have any more?? lol Looks good!!!

Chris


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## jduncan

I got the last of the two mills.  At first I didn't want it as I was only shopping for a lathe.  He told me he'd scrap it if I didn't take it so you see what happened.

He did have a 16" left but I don't know if he still does.  It's in Atlanta.  My rear is still puckered up from driving from Atlanta to Birmingham with that lathe and mill on my trailer....  :nuts:


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## jwctoolman

I just joined the forum and have little to offer other than some pick's of my 1921 model 34 South Bend. It was the centerpiece of a machinist's home shop who worked in the Norfolk and Western railroad shops in the hay day of steam. He made every conceivable modification and accessory including a taper and milling accessory. I bought it from his estate 15 years ago.


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## Jerry457

My 1975 circa Heavy 10


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## tj40

Here is my 16 x 8 before picture. This was taken while dissasembling it to bring to its new home. The seial # puts it at early Jan, 1945.


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## Chester

All these wonderfully looking lathes!!! I have been working on getting a 1937 heavy 9 SB lathe to working order for the last 3 months. I am now down to a door gear guard door and a 24 T gear for proper working condition, been using a 48 T and everything else works great but for theading. I have some pictures but still working on getting them on this site. I have made many parts and want to share them with everyone, my lathe is not great looking yet, but that will come. Thanks for sharing all these great pictures that keeps me working hard and for all the advice that you have send me. I would still be no where with out this SITE and ALL Of THE GREAT PEOPLE HERE!!! Chester


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## Canuck

My 9" SB Model A

According to the serial number:
- 9" swing
- quick change gear
- friction feed apron
- regular spindle hole
- standard swing
- underneath motor drive (UMD)

Since these photos were taken I've added a quick-change tool post (Aloris clone) and have picked up some additional tooling.


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## Jimw

Just picked up yesterday. Neglected (about) 1965 South Bend 16. Came with 3 jaw chuck,rust, 220 volt 3 phase motor, rust, one tool holder, rust, broken gear cover, rust, missing compound rest dial and hand wheel and rust.


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## Jimw

Correction. 220 volt 3 HP single phase motor.



Jimw said:


> Just picked up yesterday. Neglected (about) 1965 South Bend 16. Came with 3 jaw chuck,rust, 220 volt 3 phase motor, rust, one tool holder, rust, broken gear cover, rust, missing compound rest dial and hand wheel and rust.


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## pineyfolks

Heres my 1943 model C
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 9inch SB


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## fastback

This is my Heavy Ten.  It's a 1942 tool-room with a 4 foot bed and taper attachment.

Not a good representation of the lathe I think I reduced the file size too much, but you get the idea.


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## fastback

Here this should be a little better quality.


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## JPigg55

Here's my 9A. Not the best pic, but the best I've got for now.


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## kacce

*Metric  sb9  in norway*

Here is my metric sb9.
I will try to post a picture


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## Jimw

Looks like a wonderful machine.


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## prmindartmouth

Here is my 10k...........serial C11460KAR. It dates from 1966 and was first sold to the Robert Morse Company, who I think were Canadian distributors at that time.



The only things that "had" to be done to it after purchase and removal of wood turning dust about 15 years ago, were replace a bull gear pin that had chipped edges and a top hat shaped washer/spacer that was under a spring in the rear hor. drive. It was painted as well, all in all, a dead easy "restoration".
Since then, I added the micrometer stop, large dials and taper attachment off Ebay. It is a joy to use!


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## thamar

This is my restored SB9
I added the lever collet closer and a taper attachment.  I added a "before" picture.  

The lathe was in reasonable shape when I bought it for a 62,year old machine.  Still lots of work to take it apart, clean, and paint it.  I'm still working on a few of the instruction plates that need restoring.


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## ScrapMetal

thamar said:


> View attachment 47074
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my restored SB9
> I added the lever collet closer and a taper attachment.  I added a "before" picture.
> 
> The lathe was in reasonable shape when I bought it for a 62,year old machine.  Still lots of work to take it apart, clean, and paint it.  I'm still working on a few of the instruction plates that need restoring.



No machine that old should look that good!  (At least mine never will. :biggrin  Looks like you did a great job on the rebuild. :thumbzup:

-Ron


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## Buickgsman

Here are a few pics of my 67 or 68 Heavy 10.  I have the lever collet closer and collets, and a taper attachment so far.  Its a nice smooth machine with no wear at all on the ways.  I am looking forward to restoring it soon. - Bob


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## MONTANA BUDMAN

From MONTANA BUDMAN: Got an old South Bend 1922 I think? on 12/12/2012 an eraly X-Mas present is 13"X6' 34-C serial #24894 the old man I got this from sed it came from a car shop his Dad had in Calif. to make drive shafts it has a Model (A) ford transmission conversion on it to drive head stock with V belts on 3rd step of a 4 step pully. Any comments would be of help I have a good deal of work to do to get it in to shape. going to go back to the 4 step pully flat belt drive. Need to make drive pully my self or find one to buy.Thanks all be safe Bud.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            .


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## macrnr

MONTANA BUDMAN said:


> From MONTANA BUDMAN: Got an old South Bend 1922 I think? on 12/12/2012 an eraly X-Mas present is 13"X6' 34-C serial #24894 the old man I got this from sed it came from a car shop his Dad had in Calif. to make drive shafts it has a Model (A) ford transmission conversion on it to drive head stock with V belts on 3rd step of a 4 step pully. Any comments would be of help I have a good deal of work to do to get it in to shape. going to go back to the 4 step pully flat belt drive. Need to make drive pully my self or find one to buy.Thanks all be safe Bud.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 47635



Those old Model A trannys where bullet proof and they where used in a lot of different applications. Growing up, my dad had a plaster pump that used one of these trannys. How about some pictures?


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## MONTANA BUDMAN

modal (A) transmission 3 speed change on 3rd step of 4 step head pully 1922 South Bend lathe. 2hp 220v 1ph motor needs a good cleaning yet doing that now.


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## macrnr

How well does it work? What size motor? That is a very unique South Bend.


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## FastPauly

SB 13" Toolroom....


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## fretsman

You folks have some fantastic looking machines, and work areas as well! 

Just for contrast, I thought I'd post a few pics of my SB9A to show what the uglier versions of these machines look like  I'll even include a pic of my super-fancy home-made lever tailstock ) 










Thanks,
Dave


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## geraldsd

I'm just getting into this and am very excited.  I was going to get a mini-lathe or something of that nature just to learn the trade.  I found this SB 9.  It has 3 chucks, 3-jaw and 4-jaw, face plate, live centers, dead center, drill chuck, taper attachment, collets, three tool posts, everything, just everything.  It is also in excellent shape.  You can see the scrape marks all over the ways.  I can't wait to clean it up and get started!


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## tduf

some pics of my 14.5


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## firemech

Canuck said:


> View attachment 44651
> View attachment 44652
> View attachment 44644
> View attachment 44645
> View attachment 44646
> View attachment 44647
> View attachment 44648
> View attachment 44649
> View attachment 44650
> 
> 
> My 9" SB Model A
> 
> According to the serial number:
> - 9" swing
> - quick change gear
> - friction feed apron
> - regular spindle hole
> - standard swing
> - underneath motor drive (UMD)
> 
> Since these photos were taken I've added a quick-change tool post (Aloris clone) and have picked up some additional tooling.



This lathe looks exactly like mine but I don't have as much tooling as yours. My serial card says mine wa purchased in 1958 by General Electric. I purchased it in 2010 at the NAMES Model show in Michigan. Love it


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## geraldsd

What tool holder did you get for your 9A?  I am looking at a Phase II for my 9A.  




firemech said:


> This lathe looks exactly like mine but I don't have as much tooling as yours. My serial card says mine wa purchased in 1958 by General Electric. I purchased it in 2010 at the NAMES Model show in Michigan. Love it


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## Canuck

I picked up my tool post from Busy Bee Tools: http://www.busybeetools.com/products/TOOL-POST-QUICK-CHANGE-FOR-12IN.-LATHE.html

I've seen the same at Tools4cheap http://www.tools4cheap.net/


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## macrnr

geraldsd said:


> What tool holder did you get for your 9A?  I am looking at a Phase II for my 9A.


 I got an AXA Phase II for my South Bend 10K and I love it. I got mine on sale from ENCO for 150 Bucks. These QCTP at A2Z look nice also, plus they are made domestically.
http://stores.ebay.com/A2Z-CNC?_trksid=p2047675.l2563


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## dualquad

Here is some pics of my 9" South Bend. I picked it up from a moving sale last summer. It came with a bunch of tooling. The 3 jaw was bad so I had to replace it.


----------



## joconnor

Here is a 10K in very good shape. It needs a head stock cover. Let me know if anyone knows where to find one.


----------



## LuiTutin

LuiTutin's Heavy 10"
Born on Date 4/1/1965. Work in progress.  Hope the pics come through. (Thanks again "OldMachinist" for the tip on the oiler tube)


----------



## CMAGIC0

Here is my South Bend lathe. Its a model 34-0, and it was made in 1919.


----------



## Overthehill

*Anyone else out there have a METRIC 10K?*

My 1980's vintage METRIC South Bend 10K. After these photos of how I received it I have fully disassembled it, cleaned, and replaced all of the wicks. I'm in the process of alignment and adjustment.


----------



## kacce

I have a metric sb9.

See in post nr 63


----------



## thamar

What a fantastic restorations! You all should be very proud of your work.


----------



## Tony Wells

Well, I'll tell you guys something. I don't really have use for those machines in my shop, but I'd be proud to own one. Some of those are simply too pretty to use. Like just off the showroom floor. I can tell a lot of love and many, many hours of labor have been invested in them. They have the proper aesthetic appeal, and an aura of old age Industrialism about them that just isn't anywhere else. If my office was big enough, and when I do finally get to fully retire, maybe I'll hunt one down just for something to do and have one sitting by the desk.


----------



## kacce

Tony Wells said:


> Well, I'll tell you guys something. I don't really have use for those machines in my shop, but I'd be proud to own one. Some of those are simply too pretty to use. Like just off the showroom floor. I can tell a lot of love and many, many hours of labor have been invested in them. They have the proper aesthetic appeal, and an aura of old age Industrialism about them that just isn't anywhere else. If my office was big enough, and when I do finally get to fully retire, maybe I'll hunt one down just for something to do and have one sitting by the desk.


 


I use my many hours each week


----------



## rw1

My 1965 Heavy 10.  Acquired August 2012,  Finished total restore in January 2013.  I've been using and learning on it a bit -  lots of fun!


----------



## geraldsd

Beautiful!  I have an SB 9.  Gonna get the treatment soon.


----------



## firemech

Have a 1958 Southbend 9A works well; am about to embark on a "rewick" and clean up
	

		
			
		

		
	

View attachment 51109
View attachment 51110
View attachment 51111
View attachment 51112


----------



## Dave Smith

Here is my 9" south bend lathe


----------



## atwatterkent

Adding my recently purchased 14 1/2" 1956 SB this thread. Sold my 9A but still have the 10K.


----------



## Sanctifier

rw1 said:


> My 1965 Heavy 10.  Acquired August 2012,  Finished total restore in January 2013.  I've been using and learning on it a bit -  lots of fun!


THAT is a beautifully restored machine!


----------



## SE18

last year acquired 9A blt 1942 around April. COmpletely tore it down and cleaned it and it's back together. Ran out of all the oils b/c I use it so much so I bought a gallon of each from ENCO. That should last a while. The lathe is the king of my small shop, my pride and joy.

Oh, I rewired everything. Also built a milling attachment for it and a traveling rest

Sorry it's not painted and looking museum quality b/c it gets used a lot and dirty. In another 10 years or so I'll probably have to tear it down again
	

		
			
		

		
	

























- - - Updated - - -

oh, here it is running

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCZ6G96h2Ok


----------



## GK1918

What a lot of beauties, makes me want to break out the amaral, anyways I lived with this one a 1942
9A with a 4 1/2 bed.  I found old pic it was Ford engine blue for years since the 390 days, finally got
Dk grey which is rustoelm actually water base (I didnt know that when I bought it)  come to find out
its really durable paint with a brush fast dry no brush marks gas & oil resistant.  This lathe is dedicated
for threading, my other 9 change gears turning boring my GK does the heavy work.  Funny its Sunday
and gave every thing a good clean down.


----------



## Wendy

This lathe is for sale if anyone is interested.  Will have the serial number posted by Friday.  Located in Buckhannon, WV (North Central, WV).


----------



## Wendy

Serial number is 27268


----------



## md83driver

I  came across this machine in St. Louis from a jack screw manufacturer at  very fair price. It was advertised online. I bought it and brought it  home the same day. It took a couple of months to tear down the machine  and rebuild it, did not have to get into the headstock bearings,  tolerance was acceptable. Had to use the lathe to make tools to re-bush  the threading gearbox and cut down the cast bronze bearings from  McMaster-Carr. There was a lot of polishing on this machine. The lathe  had a three phase motor, therefore I purchased a TECO VFD to create the  three phase power requirement.  I installed a potentiometer (for  variable speed control) in front of the Forward/Reverse control which I  mounted on top of an add-on VFD control box on the left side of the  lathe. Also included a power-on indication light. At this time I am  still working on getting an Emergency Stop switch wired up. I am very  pleased with the lathe's performance.


----------



## rw1

md83,

That is a beautifully restored H10!  Nice long bed and cabinet...great colors.

Welcome to the SB Group!!


----------



## dualquad

WOW, real nice job!


----------



## sandama171

Hi all,
Here is what i got for $500 all parts were there 1928  south bend 9" model C....What did i get myself into ....









Now I'm in the process of cleaning and rebuilding it......... As a model A.










Also ordered the gear box and lead screw and yes the apron too waiting on a few parts i will post more when it is all done. i will probably have left over parts for a Model 9 C.


----------



## bull schmitt

I am a new member and am in the process of restoring a South Bend Model 420 9" lathe.

​
Hope to have it in operation shortly.


----------



## macrnr

bull schmitt said:


> I am a new member and am in the process of restoring a South Bend Model 420 9" lathe.
> View attachment 56212
> ​
> Hope to have it in operation shortly.


Cute little rascal, how long is the bed? I think if it was mine, I would be on the lookout for a longer bed and lead screw. Regardless it is a beautiful machine, very unique.


----------



## pineyfolks

macrnr said:


> Cute little rascal, how long is the bed? I think if it was mine, I would be on the lookout for a longer bed and lead screw. Regardless it is a beautiful machine, very unique.


That lathe must be a 9x9  I've never seen one that short, I wonder what the serial number says about it?


----------



## bull schmitt

Thse serial number is 60410 and it has a 25 inch bed!  I would like a longer bed but this one is too cute to modify.


----------



## macrnr

bull schmitt said:


> I am a new member and am in the process of restoring a South Bend Model 420 9" lathe.
> View attachment 56212
> ​
> Hope to have it in operation shortly.


It looks like a purpose built machine. With the tail stock on, it looks to only have a couple of inches of carriage travel. I would like to know why such a machine was built. I suppose if you used a face plate with lathe dogs or collets it would increase the work length. I can understand why you would leave it as is, it is a cool tool.


----------



## pineyfolks

bull schmitt said:


> Thse serial number is 60410 and it has a 25 inch bed!  I would like a longer bed but this one is too cute to modify.


And I thought my SB was short.  I think mine is 16" between centers.  Yours is cute enough to keep on the kitchen table!  Here's mine.


----------



## macrnr

bull schmitt said:


> I am a new member and am in the process of restoring a South Bend Model 420 9" lathe.
> View attachment 56212
> ​
> Hope to have it in operation shortly.


You should post this under a different title, so that it will get more views. This is a very interesting machine that some of the other members might have some insight. "Show us your South Bend Lathe" attracts only the South Bend Guys, might try a different title.


----------



## bull schmitt

The model is actually 420-TN.  It was made in the Fall of 1935. I have been told it is a Toolmakers Model.


----------



## Ulma Doctor

that's gotta be the coolest little lathe ever!
:man:


----------



## itsme_Bernie

Ulma Doctor said:


> that's gotta be the coolest little lathe ever!
> :man:



Yeah, no kidding!   It looks more like it was meant to be used more with collets instead of a chuck 



Bernie


----------



## itsme_Bernie

NOW I WANT ONE!!!


Bernie


----------



## woodtickgreg

itsme_Bernie said:


> NOW I WANT ONE!!!
> 
> 
> Bernie


Your a sick man! You got it bad! LOL


----------



## sandama171

here is my progress so far! taking a lil longer than what i wanted too, but had to slow down and build the bench and the drawer for it too.
I'm still waiting for the lead screw and i have to modify the apron to fit so i feel the headache coming soon.
a few posts before i showed the way i got it in case you all are curious.
I'm pretty happy with the way it is coming along! not bad for a jack of all trades master of none right..... LOL


----------



## bull schmitt

Sandama,

Very nice rebuild. The bench and drawer are outstanding.


----------



## jlrice54

I just brought my first South Bend home.  I hope to get it off the trailer this weekend and start the cleanup process. It came with a lever operated collet attachment and a taper attachment plus some misc tooling.  I'll fit either a CXA or a CA Aloris tool post and a VFD drive since the lathe is 3 phase and I don't have 3 phase in my shop.  I'm driving my Clausing 8540 mill off a Teco VFD.

It is a considerable step up from my Atlas-Craftsman 07403 12x36.


----------



## macrnr

jlrice54 said:


> I just brought my first South Bend home.  I hope to get it off the trailer this weekend and start the cleanup process. It came with a lever operated collet attachment and a taper attachment plus some misc tooling.  I'll fit either a CXA or a CA Aloris tool post and a VFD drive since the lathe is 3 phase and I don't have 3 phase in my shop.  I'm driving my Clausing 8540 mill off a Teco VFD.
> 
> It is a considerable step up from my Atlas-Craftsman 07403 12x36.



Is that the machine that was up for auction at the Public Surplus Site in Corpus Christi?


----------



## jlrice54

macrnr said:


> Is that the machine that was up for auction at the Public Surplus Site in Corpus Christi?



No this one was  a private sale from a gentleman in Enid, Oklahoma.


----------



## macrnr

jlrice54 said:


> No this one was  a private sale from a gentleman in Enid, Oklahoma.


It is a huge step up from an Atlas. The taper attachment is a nice feature.


----------



## woodtickgreg

macrnr said:


> It is a huge step up from an Atlas. The taper attachment is a nice feature.



That's not a step.....that's a shot out of a cannon giant leap! LOL


----------



## sandama171

bull schmitt said:


> Sandama,
> 
> Very nice rebuild. The bench and drawer are outstanding.



Thank you Sir,
I'm just trying to get close to what i've seeing here in this site, great machinery and great restorations


----------



## rw1

sandama171 said:


> here is my progress so far! taking a lil longer than what i wanted too, but had to slow down and build the bench and the drawer for it too.
> I'm still waiting for the lead screw and i have to modify the apron to fit so i feel the headache coming soon.
> a few posts before i showed the way i got it in case you all are curious.
> I'm pretty happy with the way it is coming along! not bad for a jack of all trades master of none right..... LOL
> 
> View attachment 56424
> View attachment 56425
> View attachment 56426
> View attachment 56427
> View attachment 56428
> View attachment 56429



sandama......

Nice work on the lathe and the Bench looks right at home!  Custom fit is always nice.  Good Job!


----------



## sandama171

rw1 said:


> sandama......
> 
> Nice work on the lathe and the Bench looks right at home!  Custom fit is always nice.  Good Job!





Thank you Sir,
I'm still working on the inner guts but she is nice and tight.......
the bench.... yes it was made to fit the lathe and stock i like it the way it came out not bad for $20 right......
And may i say this is a 9" x 48" junior model C parts are rare and hard to come by for it........ that has been my biggest issue so far.


----------



## Anasazi

Here is my 9" swing 3 1/2 foot bed overhead silent chain.  just purchased.


----------



## FDoom

This is the South Bend Lathe I acquired. I cleaned up the major dirt and chips it was covered in. This is the basic machine I have to work with. Now, to see if I actually have what it takes to make it work, PROPERLY!

Doom!

Since it was acquired: I was able to get the motor checked and re-installed and the switch rewired. The wiring was the original and needed replaced.
Doom!


----------



## Weldingrod1

Well, after almost two decades of wanting to do it, I finally converted my D-Day South Bend to a D1-3 spindle this weekend.  Of course now that I have a Hardinge, I'm selling the South Bend to a buddy of mine... at least he will get to enjoy it!

I hopped this old lathe up just about as far as is possible: VFD drive, two axis DRO and a DRO on the compound.  I put pressure fed lubrication on the carriage and cross slide (one pulse of air= one shot of oil on every hole).  

A REALLY nice upgrade if your lathe likes oil in the spindle pulley (which mine did): add a ball oiler so you can inject without having to take out that darn threaded plug!


----------



## Chainsaw Driver

Many of you saw her and provided your invaluable feedback during the time I was purchasing her and getting her home.  After having her setup for a while and getting to really know her I finally got a photo of her all set up.  She's not real pretty but she's accurate to < .001" and strong enough to handle almost anything.  I was very fortunate to purchase her with almost every available option at the time of manufacture.  She's a 13" x 5' bed 1978 model with two speed electric motor.  She also has the factory D1-3 Camlock spindle complete with quick change 5C collet closer.  She also came with original screw type drawbar as well.  She has the factory steady rest, follower rest, carriage stop, taper attachment, and 8" four jaw chuck.  She was ordered with a factory 3 jaw but it was stolen many years ago, the owners replaced it with a quality 6" Bison.  She also has two large dog plates as well as a couple of D1-3 camlock rings for attaching additional Chucks etc.  She also came with a KDK 100 tool post and all the factory test and catalog data.  I added a rotary phase converter and slowly amassed additional tool holders.  I'm still learning to use her correctly but am amazed at how much I love having her.  How did I ever get along without a lathe?  Is it strange to love your lathe?  :nuts:


----------



## neilking

Needs a lirtle work.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk


----------



## Todd

When you did the one shot oiler, did you use a bijur system or one of the imports?  do you hvae to worry about running the lines equally from the metering unit to the oil ports to eliminate any points from getting less oil than others?  i have been wanting to add a one shot system to my VN 12, just havent looked into the logistics of it all yet.

Thanks

Todd



Weldingrod1 said:


> Well, after almost two decades of wanting to do it, I finally converted my D-Day South Bend to a D1-3 spindle this weekend.  Of course now that I have a Hardinge, I'm selling the South Bend to a buddy of mine... at least he will get to enjoy it!
> 
> I hopped this old lathe up just about as far as is possible: VFD drive, two axis DRO and a DRO on the compound.  I put pressure fed lubrication on the carriage and cross slide (one pulse of air= one shot of oil on every hole).
> 
> A REALLY nice upgrade if your lathe likes oil in the spindle pulley (which mine did): add a ball oiler so you can inject without having to take out that darn threaded plug!


----------



## woodtickgreg

nielking, very cool looking old lathe, I still use that type of tool holder on my lathe as it gets the job done and it was a freebie. I also noticed in your pics what appears to be 2 stroke motorcycle exhaust? Do tell.


----------



## neilking

That's my buddy's last H1 set up as a cafe racer. It doesn't look like much but it runs pretty good.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk


----------



## woodtickgreg

neilking said:


> That's my buddy's last H1 set up as a cafe racer. It doesn't look like much but it runs pretty good.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk


There's a member here, jeff in pa, he makes some really cool parts for those. You might want to look him up and check out his stuff, he's a good guy and we have traded some stuff before.


----------



## toolpost

My southbend came from a navy shipyard then to a highschool shop then to my father and then to me. Its a little worn but still works good. When I use the power feed towards the headstock the carriage deflects away about ..003 would like to correct this but need to learn how.


----------



## woodtickgreg

toolpost, on the back side of the saddle on the bottom are 3 bolts, snugging them a little may take out some of that deflection. Do not tighten them to much as the saddle will bind, just enough to take up the play.


----------



## toolpost

woodtickgreg said:


> toolpost, on the back side of the saddle on the bottom are 3 bolts, snugging them a little may take out some of that deflection. Do not tighten them to much as the saddle will bind, just enough to take up the play.


Thanks for the tip woodticgreg I hadn't thought that the fix would be that simple. This makes sense as the problem didn't occur slowly. When I think back it started after I had been doing interupted cuts on square stock. THANKS AGAIN, BRIAN


----------



## Weldingrod1

Todd,

I went a totally different route! I used one oil pump per oil port, so I am guaranteed to get oil on everything; these pumps will deliver up to 1000 psi on 100 psi shop air. There are two brands out there that are almost identical. You can Google Oil-Rite or "PurgeX for oil dispensing"



Todd said:


> When you did the one shot oiler, did you use a bijur system or one of the imports? do you hvae to worry about running the lines equally from the metering unit to the oil ports to eliminate any points from getting less oil than others? i have been wanting to add a one shot system to my VN 12, just havent looked into the logistics of it all yet.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Todd


----------



## thenrie

New participant here. Just brought home my first South Bend (2nd lathe). Bought the SB from a friend to use to make parts for the rebuild of a Delta Rockwell 11. I'll make a thread about the cleanup and refurb of the 9A, but I thought I'd post a shot of my lathe here and join the fun.


----------



## stevecmo

thenrie,

Looks like she needs a little TLC but should be a fine machine when you're done.  And two lathes are always better than one!

Your Rockwell looks like it's missing a few parts.  :roflmao:
(Just kidding......I'm watching your refurb thread.)

Thanks for sharing!

Steve


----------



## thenrie

Yeah. The SB may not look like much right now, but she's in much better condition than the DR was when I got it. I'm hoping to be putting the DR back together within a couple weeks - still waiting on a few parts - then I'll do a little refurb on the SB. Looking forward to that.


----------



## DianneB

My 1941 10" Southbend started life with an aircraft company in Winnipeg. Despite being war time, it was probably well treated until it moved to the community college (year unknown) where it was heavily used (and abused) and where it finished its professional life turning armatures for starters and generators. 

I had been on the lookout for a lathe for a long time and used to check the machine dealers regularly for trade-ins and about 1990 one of the dealers said they had one coming in shortly so I went back the day it arrived (in pieces on a pallet) and made them an offer for it "as is, where is". They loaded it in my truck and it came home with  me.

It was well worn - still is LOL! - with about 0.001 drop near the headstock, worn and sloppy leadscrew nuts, and badly needs painting but overhauling the old girl seems to be something I never get around to. It works and that's what is important. In its time with me it has built a 1/2 scale traction engine (from scratch), a 1/2 scale threshing machine, a 1/3 scale civil war cannon, and uncounted custom one-off parts and repairs both for myself and for friends.

I don't know what I would do without my trusty Southbend but if I had the money I would probably trade her in for a smaller precision lathe because, as I get older, my models get smaller and smaller and it would be nice to be able to work to finer tolerances. But she's done well and she's still truckin' !


----------



## cuseguy

My latest SB, it's a 1979 CL-187ZB Heavy 10. It has the threaded spindle, but I have a 128 piece Hardinge 5C collet set, so I rarely use chucks anyway, and the price was right. It's a one owner machine, from a business that cut plastic with it since new. But that molten plastic had hardened in every last corner. The back gears were so mucked that they couldn't even turn! So the rebuild was more about removing the stubborn stuff and rewicking the entire machine. The machine came with a new Leeson 1hp/3ph that I hooked to a Automation Direct GS2 VFD. I chose the GS2 for it's sealed detachable keypad that I mounted in place of the old drum switch on the headstock bracket with a little fabrication. The vfd and fused cutoff sits in the box visible on the left side of the bench
I do alot of repetitive, close collet work that suited having a 4-position stop. I had always had the mic stops on previous machines and had never used the turret type. So I tried to find a user picture of a 10L with one attached. Not a single pic anywhere, other than the SB catalog closeup from the 50's. Apparently not many owners use these!
Anyway,  Latheman (Ted) found me a nice one that I just completed painting. So for others that wonder how the 4-position carriage stop looks on a 10L...finally a picture of one. 





The finished product





VFD mount






Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


----------



## Jimw

Then.



Jimw said:


> Just picked up yesterday. Neglected (about) 1965 South Bend 16. Came with 3 jaw chuck,rust, 220 volt 3 phase motor, rust, one tool holder, rust, broken gear cover, rust, missing compound rest dial and hand wheel and rust.
> 
> View attachment 45254



And now.


----------



## woodtickgreg

Jim, nice work on the 16" SB, but why are you selling it? I am in Michigan also and I saw it on Craigslist. Just curious.


----------



## rw1

Cuseguy,

Very nice lathe.  I'm jealous of that Lever Collet Closer and all those Collets!  My hand wheel Closer on my 65' 10L is good but not nearly as convenient.  

Throw a pic of that Collet Rack of 128 Hardinge collets…..I'd like to see that one too!


----------



## Jimw

woodtickgreg said:


> Jim, nice work on the 16" SB, but why are you selling it? I am in Michigan also and I saw it on Craigslist. Just curious.



I have 3 lathes, the 16 you saw on CL the #5 Barnes and another SB 16 with 8 foot bed and taper attachment. The 8 foot needs some work. I need to make some room and I don't need 3 lathes.


----------



## Capt.Mark

*10K 4-1/2' bed*

*I just purchased this lathe and really have no idea when it was made, although I suspect in was in the mid-fifties.*

*The serial number is 21940KBR – (could that be an OH versus a ZERO?). Opposite that is another number stamped on the bed B400NK.*

*Included with the lathe was some (original?) literature:*


*Catalog number 5600, gold colored, 50[SUP]th[/SUP] anniversary edition copyrighted 1955.  This was contained in a manila envelope with a South Bend postmark for 6 ½ cents. Stapled within the catalog was an IBM punch card with a hand a written note which reads:*
*Model B10K*

*4 ½ ft, 667R*
*$  497.00 *
*Tool Block 1413N*
*$   13.50 *
*3 Jaw 6506*
*$  107.00 *
*Steady rest 2395K*
*$   15.75 *
*Follow rest 2400K*
*$   10.50 *
*4 Jaw 4006K*
*$   42.00 *
*8” Face plate*
*$     9.75 *
*Jacobs Chuck*
*Thread Gauge*
*$   11.75 *

*At the bottom of the note, written ink “Wrote 7/2/56”*



*How to run a lathe, 49[SUP]th[/SUP] edition, copyright 1949*
*Accessory Bulletin titled “Profit Makers” “South Bend Lathe Accessories” copyright 1973. In handwriting on the front cover it reads “Sept. 1973”.On the inside back cover, titled notes, a handwritten note reads, “Bought Lathe at auction July 12, 2003 $1450.00”*
*
Of note (at least to me) is that the hand scrape marks (frosting?) are still clearly visible and show no signs of wear. Aside from needing to be cleaned and lubricated, the machine appears to be in “as new” condition!























Capt. Mark*


----------



## drs23

*Re: 10K 4-1/2' bed*



Capt.Mark said:


> *I just purchased this lathe and really have no idea when it was made, although I suspect in was in the mid-fifties.*
> 
> *The serial number is 21940KBR – (could that be an OH versus a ZERO?). Opposite that is another number stamped on the bed B400NK.*
> 
> *Included with the lathe was some (original?) literature:*
> 
> 
> *Catalog number 5600, gold colored, 50[SUP]th[/SUP] anniversary edition copyrighted 1955.  This was contained in a manila envelope with a South Bend postmark for 6 ½ cents. Stapled within the catalog was an IBM punch card with a hand a written note which reads:*
> *Model B10K*
> 
> *4 ½ ft, 667R**$  497.00 **Tool Block 1413N**$   13.50 **3 Jaw 6506**$  107.00 **Steady rest 2395K**$   15.75 **Follow rest 2400K**$   10.50 **4 Jaw 4006K**$   42.00 **8” Face plate**$     9.75 **Jacobs Chuck**Thread Gauge**$   11.75 *
> *At the bottom of the note, written ink “Wrote 7/2/56”*
> 
> 
> 
> *How to run a lathe, 49[SUP]th[/SUP] edition, copyright 1949*
> *Accessory Bulletin titled “Profit Makers” “South Bend Lathe Accessories” copyright 1973. In handwriting on the front cover it reads “Sept. 1973”.On the inside back cover, titled notes, a handwritten note reads, “Bought Lathe at auction July 12, 2003 $1450.00”*
> *
> Of note (at least to me) is that the hand scrape marks (frosting?) are still clearly visible and show no signs of wear. Aside from needing to be cleaned and lubricated, the machine appears to be in “as new” condition!
> 
> Capt. Mark*



Bandit score!

If I wouldn't be prying too much, what'd ya pay for it Cappy?


----------



## "Mike"

Here's mine.  Dad's lathe that I moved to my house after he died Took almost ten years before I could STAND to move it though!).   Have never cleaned on it yet because I am lazy and have actually been using it,  as you can tell.   Here I was doing something so mundane as making a small piece to make guitar markers out of plastic lids.  Basically,  just a hollow tube with a sharpened end and a slot cut in the back end to poke the plugs out.  Nothing as fancy as you guys do but hey,  I needed markers!


----------



## ARM

*Re: 10K 4-1/2' bed*

CAPTAIN  MARK
Oh  Captain, my  Captain.............
U  have  indeed really  found  some "treasure"  here, U  lucky  Man.
Wow  Oh  Wow  !!!
What  a  beaut.
This  is  a  gem  only  comes  up  once  in a  lifetime for  those  fortunate  few
We  could  only  drool  over  the  condition  and  care  of  this
And  those  Accessories,  in  such  pristine  condition.
They  are  even  in  the  original  packaging
Sir,  U  have  been  truly  blessed  and  we  wish  U  all  the  best  with Your  new  found  gem.
aRM






> Capt.Mark said:
> 
> 
> 
> *I just purchased this lathe and really have no idea when it was made, although I suspect in was in the mid-fifties.*
> 
> *The serial number is 21940KBR – (could that be an OH versus a ZERO?). Opposite that is another number stamped on the bed B400NK.*
> 
> *Included with the lathe was some (original?) literature:*
> 
> 
> *Catalog number 5600, gold colored, 50[SUP]th[/SUP] anniversary edition copyrighted 1955.  This was contained in a manila envelope with a South Bend postmark for 6 ½ cents. Stapled within the catalog was an IBM punch card with a hand a written note which reads:*
> *Model B10K*
> 
> *4 ½ ft, 667R**$  497.00 **Tool Block 1413N**$   13.50 **3 Jaw 6506**$  107.00 **Steady rest 2395K**$   15.75 **Follow rest 2400K**$   10.50 **4 Jaw 4006K**$   42.00 **8” Face plate**$     9.75 **Jacobs Chuck**Thread Gauge**$   11.75 *
> *At the bottom of the note, written ink “Wrote 7/2/56”*
> 
> 
> 
> *How to run a lathe, 49[SUP]th[/SUP] edition, copyright 1949*
> *Accessory Bulletin titled “Profit Makers” “South Bend Lathe Accessories” copyright 1973. In handwriting on the front cover it reads “Sept. 1973”.On the inside back cover, titled notes, a handwritten note reads, “Bought Lathe at auction July 12, 2003 $1450.00”*
> *
> Of note (at least to me) is that the hand scrape marks (frosting?) are still clearly visible and show no signs of wear. Aside from needing to be cleaned and lubricated, the machine appears to be in “as new” condition!
> 
> 
> Capt. Mark*
Click to expand...


----------



## Capt.Mark

*Re: 10K 4-1/2' bed*



drs23 said:


> Bandit score!
> 
> If I wouldn't be prying too much, what'd ya pay for it Cappy?



Not prying at all.  I paid $1700.00.  I found it on Craig's List about 90 or so miles away from my home.  It sat there for 28 days. 



ARM said:


> CAPTAIN  MARK
> Oh  Captain, my  Captain.............
> U  have  indeed really  found  some "treasure"  here, U  lucky  Man.
> Wow  Oh  Wow  !!!
> What  a  beaut.
> This  is  a  gem  only  comes  up  once  in a  lifetime for  those  fortunate  few
> We  could  only  drool  over  the  condition  and  care  of  this
> And  those  Accessories,  in  such  pristine  condition.
> They  are  even  in  the  original  packaging
> Sir,  U  have  been  truly  blessed  and  we  wish  U  all  the  best  with Your  new  found  gem.
> aRM



Yeah, I almost feel unworthy! Thanks!


----------



## cuseguy

*Re: 10K 4-1/2' bed*



Capt.Mark said:


> Not prying at all.  I paid $1700.00.  I found it on Craig's List about 90 or so miles away from my home.  It sat there for 28 days.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I almost feel unworthy! Thanks!


It is the same vintage as my first SB 10k, which was a 1950. The serial number baffles me a little, it should be in the 2000's for that vintage with no zero or O at the end. KBR is standard code for Model 10K, Model B with standard change gears and standard spindle. This machine is somewhat rare for 2 reasons. The long bed and for not having the Quick Change Gear Box. Not many 10Ks were sold that way. Mint Model A's with the QC Gear Box and the long bed occasionally come up...for between 3-5k, if they still have the majority of their bed frosting (scraping) like yours. So a Model B  would be slightly less than an A. But safe to say that with the full package of extras you got, you stole her.


----------



## Capt.Mark

*Re: 10K 4-1/2' bed*



cuseguy said:


> It is the same vintage as my first SB 10k, which was a 1950. The serial number baffles me a little, it should be in the 2000's for that vintage with no zero or O at the end. KBR is standard code for Model 10K, Model B with standard change gears and standard spindle. This machine is somewhat rare for 2 reasons. The long bed and for not having the Quick Change Gear Box. Not many 10Ks were sold that way. Mint Model A's with the QC Gear Box and the long bed occasionally come up...for between 3-5k, if they still have the majority of their bed frosting (scraping) like yours. So a Model B  would be slightly less than an A. But safe to say that with the full package of extras you got, you stole her.



Thanks for the "apraisal".  Being as I'm new to the lathe world, I realy had no idea where to value this machine at.  All I knew it was that is was cheaper than a new Grizzly-Bend. 

I will double check the serial number today or tomorrow and report back.


----------



## outboardguy44

My 9A as found in December 2007 




today it is in my basement workshop. Took the big fibreglass belt guard off in favour of the older gear guards. Added a few other things too, but have not been tempted to repaint it. Originally sold by South Bend in the fall of 1958 to the Canadian Fairbanks-Morse company.


----------



## Capt.Mark

*Re: 10K 4-1/2' bed*



Capt.Mark said:


> Thanks for the "apraisal".  Being as I'm new to the lathe world, I realy had no idea where to value this machine at.  All I knew it was that is was cheaper than a new Grizzly-Bend.
> 
> I will double check the serial number today or tomorrow and report back.



I finnaly got around to double checking the serial number.  I have attached a picture showing the serial number on the bed 21940KBR7 and another showing the catalog number from the name plate on the head, 667.



From what I have read, the "0" between the "4" and the "K" is an anomaly....I am also unclear about the "7" at the end.....

If anyone has thoughts on this,  please chime in.

Thanks!

Capt.Mark


----------



## GK1918

Mark I have come upon this mystery.  I conclude with research that well may be an inspector stamp, I have one like that.  May not make sense,
but, initals or some kind of letter or number is the inspector code.  How I know? this was the normal when I worked for Raytheon 60s.  

a stamp= example 4*o7 was the guys "coat of arms so to speak"   or thats what I'm led to believe.

then I think it makes sense, if something went wrong I wouldnt want my name, stamp of approval on it..........sam


----------



## cuseguy

*Re: 10K 4-1/2' bed*



Capt.Mark said:


> I finnaly got around to double checking the serial number.  I have attached a picture showing the serial number on the bed 21940KBR7 and another showing the catalog number from the name plate on the head, 667.
> View attachment 67602
> View attachment 67603
> 
> From what I have read, the "0" between the "4" and the "K" is an anomaly....I am also unclear about the "7" at the end.....
> 
> If anyone has thoughts on this,  please chime in.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Capt.Mark



The "7" is a common thing at the end. Many 10Ks have a 7 or an 8. Not sure what it means. It might be a motor/control option code. But that dang "0" in the serial is downright baffling. You said it though....SB did have anomalies in their serial number system with the amount of customization options that they offered. Someone like latheman2 [Ted worked at SB ] would probably know. I'll ask him. 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


----------



## Capt.Mark

GK and Cuse - thanks for your help.  For what it's worth, I just ordered the Serial Card from Grizzly....I will post back here once I receive it and let you know what they have to say.


----------



## cuseguy

Great idea Mark. I think your machine is noteworthy enough to want the serial card for it in any case.  

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


----------



## Canuck75

Weldingrod1 said:


> Well, after almost two decades of wanting to do it, I finally converted my D-Day South Bend to a D1-3 spindle this weekend.  Of course now that I have a Hardinge, I'm selling the South Bend to a buddy of mine... at least he will get to enjoy it!
> 
> I hopped this old lathe up just about as far as is possible: VFD drive, two axis DRO and a DRO on the compound.  I put pressure fed lubrication on the carriage and cross slide (one pulse of air= one shot of oil on every hole).
> 
> A REALLY nice upgrade if your lathe likes oil in the spindle pulley (which mine did): add a ball oiler so you can inject without having to take out that darn threaded plug!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 65283
> View attachment 65284
> View attachment 65285
> View attachment 65287
> View attachment 65288
> View attachment 65289
> View attachment 65286




You said you converted the spindle to a D-3.  Because heavy threads are visible inside the D-3 nose does that mean that that is a D-3 adapter spun onto the original spindle?, or is that thread some kind of accommodation for a collet system?


----------



## Capt.Mark

cuseguy said:


> Great idea Mark. I think your machine is noteworthy enough to want the serial card for it in any case.
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3



OK - here's the serial card, front and back. Looks like it was sold to a dealer in 1950 (Carey Machinery and Supply in Baltimore).


----------



## drsorey

Sorry for the long delay in pictures of the heavy 10 I picked up in late Nov.  It is in really good shape I think.  I am still trying to get it set up and organized, as you might see I am really cramped for space.  I think because of all the "chewed Marks" on the carriage and compound this must have been a "school lathe". The ways don't have any ridges on them.  Looks like "new gears"


----------



## Canuck75

My 1964 SB 10" toolroom lathe that I got in 1975 out of a Crown Asset sale. The only thing I would like different on it is a D-1 spindle.


----------



## Canuck75

Canuck75 said:


> You said you converted the spindle to a D-3.  Because heavy threads are visible inside the D-3 nose does that mean that that is a D-3 adapter spun onto the original spindle?, or is that thread some kind of accommodation for a collet system?




Weldingrod1

Just in case you missed it, I am sending you this question again with regards to your "spindle conversion". Was that a complete spindle change out to a D-3 spindle, or some kind of a spin on conversion adapter? If it was a complete spindle change what are the threads visible inside the D-3 nose for?


Thanks


----------



## rw1

Canuck75 said:


> My 1964 SB 10" toolroom lathe that I got in 1975 out of a Crown Asset sale. The only thing I would like different on it is a D-1 spindle.
> 
> 
> View attachment 67870



 Canuck
beautiful lathe!!

How do you like that switch position?  Seems like a good location but I'd like your thoughts.  My 1965 heavy has a drum switch that goes in the same spot ( I have same lathe /cabinet) but it's not installed yet.  Just running it with VFD on wall right now.  I like the drum switch with forward/reverse but curious about this location. 
Thanks again and great restoration.


----------



## Canuck75

rw1 said:


> Canuck
> beautiful lathe!!
> 
> How do you like that switch position?  Seems like a good location but I'd like your thoughts.  My 1965 heavy has a drum switch that goes in the same spot ( I have same lathe /cabinet) but it's not installed yet.  Just running it with VFD on wall right now.  I like the drum switch with forward/reverse but curious about this location.
> Thanks again and great restoration.




RW1

Thank you for your comment but my restoration efforts seem to pale a bit compared to some of the results I have viewed on this Forum. Anyways, with respect to the switch, it was part of the original 550V 3ph add on package so I kept it despite the fact that I have a drum switch I could have used. The position is fine for me for a couple of reasons. My "shop" is an unheated shed in my back yard so do most of my tinkering in the summer and the rest of the time I keep my lathe covered. The collet rack, and the usual position of a drum switch overtop the head, or anything else that sticks out, would all interfere with throwing the cover on, so I keep it streamlined. Also, I am a real "nervous nellie" when it comes to reversing a lathe with a threaded spindle (just in case the chuck comes loose) so am not in the habit of using reverse. And, since I can find the "FWD" and "STOP" buttons quite easily without looking, the location works fine for me.


----------



## cuseguy

My 1979 Heavy 10 has a few new paint scratches since it's rebuild 8 weeks ago! I just added a bed turret since I do alot of repetitive op work. 
	

		
			
		

		
	




Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


----------



## corey607

I'll take some pics of my 9a this afternoon and get them posted. I'm planning on restoring it this summer.


----------



## leversole

My recently aquired 13 inch toolroom...around 1942 from the serial number...will get the SP index card soon...very good shape...only "noise" comes from one of the gears on the back...would like to change the feed clutch from dial to lever...also going to buy a 6 or 8 inch chuck and machine a threaded adapter...


----------



## tincloth

picked this guy up a few weeks ago, starting the rebuild process now. trying to decide if I'm going to repaint or not, most the paint is missing already. 
	

		
			
		

		
	






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tincloth

also, I'm having trouble getting the pin out of the worm gear on the apron, I'm following the rebuild kit manual, but the pin is stuck halfway out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tincloth

I got the pin out.


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## Canuck75

Nels said:


> We take great pride in our machines!
> 
> This is the thread to post photos of your beloved South Bend lathes, show "before" and "after photos and make our mouths water with the tooling and accessories you have accumulated for your machine.
> 
> A picture is worth a thousand words, but some captions would be awfully nice too!
> 
> So come on....let's see what you got!
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> Nelson





Nels

Have tried to get a reply from Weldingrod1 regards converting his SB late to a D-1 spindle in his thread posted 12-02-13 at 02:32PM, but have been unsuccessful. I dropped a note in his Visitors box as well. Do you know if Weldingrod1 is still active?


Canuck75


----------



## outboardguy44

Me again, updating previous post on my SB 9A. Bought this taper attachment the other week through a Kijiji ad, got it installed and seems to be working just fine. Paint on the purchased parts doesn't match whats left of the original paint on the lathe, but not going to bother going to the trouble of making one match the other.





Best,
T2


----------



## Rangerjoe2

Picked her up a little more than a year ago.  13"x40" south bend with camlock spindle.  Bought it on eBay for $2200 with the intent to rebuild, but once I got it home and leveled up I found it was still tight and accurate.  It came with the follow and steady rest 6" 3 jaw and 8" 4 jaw.  I picked up the 5c collet spindle adapter and 3mt spindle adapter.  Also just bought a 8" 3 jaw for her.


----------



## stevecmo

Sweet looking SB Joe.  I'd love to have that model in that good of condition.

Steve


----------



## patdoody

Just picked up a Heavy 10 lathe last night. Its had alot of use over its life span, but has alot of life left in it. Came with some good tooling as well. Collect closer, bison 6" chuck, tail stock, taper attachment, live center, steady rest, a bunch of tool holders, and some face plates. I am going to mount the AXA qctp I have on my harbor freight 9x20 on this as well. Best of all I stole it for 900.00!!! I just need to figure out a phase converter or vfd for it, I dont know much about them yet tho. So stoked on replacing my China lathe with this one.


----------



## cuseguy

My South Bend 10L isn't new but it has recently been updated a little. It was rebuilt last fall, but it finally got a new DRO, a  paint job last week and a new spot in the shop. It's kinda like getting a new machine!


----------



## ranch23

I see a whole bunch of shops that I would like to visit. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## sgisler

fretsman said:


> You folks have some fantastic looking machines, and work areas as well!
> 
> Just for contrast, I thought I'd post a few pics of my SB9A to show what the uglier versions of these machines look like  I'll even include a pic of my super-fancy home-made lever tailstock )
> 
> View attachment 47716
> 
> 
> View attachment 47717
> 
> 
> View attachment 47718
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Dave



Hi Fretsman,
came across this old post and thought I'd ask if you had any details on your 'super-fancy home-made lever tailstock'. I've been pondering this as a project for my 10k for quite some time and have spent (too many) hours scouring the web for design ideas. I like that yours does not incorporate a handwheel and appears to have LOTS of travel. any info you could give me would be most appreciated!
Thanks,


----------



## jlrice54

This is my South Bend project.  It's a 16" swing Model 117H from 1947 with a 12' bed.  This picture shows it still bolted to the shipping cradle welded up by the previous owner.  That was a nice touch as I managed to unload it by myself without worrying about breaking that long bed casting.  The paint is bad but it's complete down to the taper attachment and collet closer that were never mounted, all the gears are good with no missing teeth and it came with some tooling.  The only damage I've noticed so far during tea down is a broken drum switch mount.  I'm going to cut the mount off the conduit and replace the drum switch with a multi-button industrial enclosure for the push buttons and speed pot for my VFD.  There is minimal bed wear and I bought the rebuild manual on eBay along with a complete set of oil wicks, way wiper felts and apron gasket from the same source. I've ordered some reproduction name and data plates on eBay as well.  About the only thing I have left to order is a new flat belt and a new set of Vee belts from the motor to the counter shaft.

My old lathes are an Atlas-Craftsman 6x18 and an Atlas-Craftsman 12x36.  The taper attachment of the SB16 weighs more than the 6x18.  I'm looking forward getting it back in operation.

Please ignore the messy shop.  I never seem to have the time to clean it properly and keep bringing stuff in faster than I can get it stowed away.


----------



## notinthoseshoes

This came into my possession yesterday so I'm still trying to work out what I have.

The catalog number 8187AN would suggest its a 10", 1" collet, 4' bed toolroom lathe.

I had a good look for the serial number and there is the faintest remanence of a 7 were you would expect to find the s/n on the bed (is it possible for the serial number to wear off?).

Am I right in thinking that the single tumbler screwcutting gearbox makes it pre 1949?

The cabinet looks like a non OEM product and could have been an "Aussie" add on, will have to work out what all the levers do when I get it home.


----------



## jlrice54

I just bought my second South Bend.  It's a 9A from 1968, serial number 57266NKR9.  I pick it up week after next.  Grizzly has already sent me the serial card.  It should look really good next to my South Bend 16"x144" lathe.

James


----------



## comstock-friend

My 9" Model A. My name plate says CL644A 4 foot bed, bed s/n 38987NAR 9.

https://plus.google.com/photos/1170...ms/6033163158504621617?authkey=CPbJ4LvKvq69cQ

Clean up/restoration interrupted 30 years ago, setting it up now.

John Friend


----------



## joebiplane

Nels said:


> We take great pride in our machines!
> 
> This is the thread to post photos of your beloved South Bend lathes, show "before" and "after photos and make our mouths water with the tooling and accessories you have accumulated for your machine.
> 
> A picture is worth a thousand words, but some captions would be awfully nice too!
> 
> So come on....let's see what you got!
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> Nelson



Here's my latest re-do   a 1955+/-  9"  with bed turret as well as std tailstock  has collet closer ant collet rack but no collets.   took 6 mos and 150 hours to re-do  but I was slow ( recuperating from major intestinal surgery  and a major  leg  blood  clot in between stomach operations)
when I stripped the paint on the chip tray I decided to bring it to bare steel and polish it... The result is  NO PAINT CHIPS<< EVER


----------



## Anasazi

*1947 9" model A South Bend Lathe*

I bought this lathe from the original owners nephew.  it was bought new in 1948 from W T Wills Machinery Co.  cat # 644 A  serial # 5116NAR8 it came very fully tooled, tapper attachment, milling attachment, 64th set of colletts and many old style lantern tool holders as well as newer ones. It is  in excellent condition!  It has never been repainted or restored. I love the old patina and the grey is a bit darker.  It has less than 2 thou backlash on compound and cross slide screws, original scraping marks on all the way and machine surfaces!  It was on a old oil soaked bench made from a door.  I built a new bench, I used recycled old growth strait grain Doug Fir for the 2 1/2" slab top and laminated 2x6s for the legs and top and bottom rails, also added levelers with heavy duty casters.  It is my treasure, and gives me peace.


----------



## Tom Y

*Heavy 10 L*

I was looking for a lathe for a couple of years so I just bought a 1948? Heavy 10 L. Serial no 1264rkl9 this one has the cast iron plinth. The front way is worn somewhat and the compound screw has 180 degrees of play. Other than that everything else appears to be in good shape so far. I will be diassembling it to paint and replace any worn parts. I have to get a VFD since it is a 3/4 horse 3 phase motor. I did see it run and it was smooth and quiet. A three and four jaw chuck and miscellaneous tool holders came with it. I will be fabricating parts for my Road Racing Musitang bikes and anything else. I have been working on Mostly Ford cars light trucks Honda motorcycles some aircraft and boats for 50 years. Thanks Tom.


----------



## comstock-friend

My new (1958) 13 inch, on delivery day. 93 miles plus my driveway from hell, finally in my somewhat crowded garage.






Got the Grizzy order card. Pretty sure it had a hardened bed (all ground) but lathe did not have the badge. Card confirms it is hardened.

John


----------



## geraldsd

I want a 13" sooo bad...looks like a nice one!


----------



## wallpaperman

This would be my 1950 SouthBend 10K


----------



## Dave Smith

Very nice looking lathe---Dave


----------



## brucedownunder

I'm restoring my 70 year old southbend -- nearly finished ,, will take some pic's and post you all the info soon

Bruce


----------



## comstock-friend

*Re: 1947 9" model A South Bend Lathe*



Anasazi said:


> I built a new bench, I used recycled old growth strait grain Doug Fir for the 2 1/2" slab top and laminated 2x6s for the legs and top and bottom rails, also added levelers with heavy duty casters.  It is my treasure, and gives me peace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 81881
> View attachment 81882
> View attachment 81883




Great bench, very solid. Too bad I do metal work because I'm crap at wood work!!!

John


----------



## comstock-friend

*Re: 1947 9" model A South Bend Lathe*


Anasazi, What fasteners did you use on the vertical legs??? Dry wall screws, nails, lags or whatever??? This might become my SB 7" shaper bench...

John


----------



## Anasazi

comstock-friend said:


> *Re: 1947 9" model A South Bend Lathe*
> 
> 
> Anasazi, What fasteners did you use on the vertical legs??? Dry wall screws, nails, lags or whatever??? This might become my SB 7" shaper bench...
> 
> John





3" SS Split Stop Star Drive wood screws. were the only fasteners besides the joinery. mostly for the top and bottom rails.  It is way stout and would work well for your shaper.


----------



## Duker

John, I just purchased a 10K and ordered the serial card from Grizzly. I am still drinking from a fire hose in trying to learn about the lathe so I was wondering what code tells you if you have a hardened bed? Thanks.




comstock-friend said:


> My new (1958) 13 inch, on delivery day. 93 miles plus my driveway from hell, finally in my somewhat crowded garage.
> View attachment 81929
> View attachment 81931
> View attachment 81928
> View attachment 81930
> 
> 
> Got the Grizzy order card. Pretty sure it had a hardened bed (all ground) but lathe did not have the badge. Card confirms it is hardened.
> 
> John


----------



## comstock-friend

Duker said:


> John, I just purchased a 10K and ordered the serial card from Grizzly. I am still drinking from a fire hose in trying to learn about the lathe so I was wondering what code tells you if you have a hardened bed? Thanks.



The 'X' on my 6715TKX means a 'special' I believe, usually being a hardened bed but not always. Check out Steve Well's web page, lots of good South Bend stuff.

(Also, the hardened beds are ground, so you don't see the typical scraping marks on them.)

John


----------



## Duker

John, thank you for information and reference. I will check out Steve Wells site. 



comstock-friend said:


> The 'X' on my 6715TKX means a 'special' I believe, usually being a hardened bed but not always. Check out Steve Well's web page, lots of good South Bend stuff.
> 
> (Also, the hardened beds are ground, so you don't see the typical scraping marks on them.)
> 
> John


----------



## brucedownunder

brucedownunder said:


> I'm restoring my 70 year old southbend -- nearly finished ,, will take some pic's and post you all the info soon
> 
> Bruce


----------



## Canuck75

I am still curious about a post to this thread made by Weldingrod1 on 12-02-13 at 02:32PM about finally converting his SB threaded nose lathe splindle to a D1-3, but with no detailed description of how this was done (spindle change?). The associated picture makes it look like a spun on adaptor was used since it has a large thread (2 1/4" - 8?) still visible in the nose of the D1-3 flange.

Despite a number of queries I have not got a reply to clarify how the conversion was really done.

The original post is on currently on page 5 of this thread. Anybody out there looked at this and maybe had the same question?

Would like to hear about it.

Canuck75


----------



## n7gtb

Here's my 1956 Heavy 10L, with the short 3 1/2" bed.  I've only had it for a couple of months, so still cleaning it up.  The prior owner didn't know much about it, had miss-wired the motor and switch (with hot and neutral swapped and  no ground wire, electrocution was a very real risk!).  Someone (not me) went after the paint with a wire wheel...  All in all, it's in great shape mechanically, and had nearly all the attachments except taper and micrometer stop...

It was sold to W.T. Wills Machinery Co in Los Angeles, CA...  Beyond that, the prior owner said it was used at Berkley before being sold at auction.  I purchased it from someone, who's late father (I'm told) purchased it from Berkley...  The headstock is still within spec, and the test bar I made just after getting it running, indicates the bed is still in good shape as well.  The four jaw chuck is a SB original, the three jaw is a Buck.


-Vern


----------



## dlane

South Bend 10L 1957


----------



## bobl

I have the same 10 it's such a great machine I use only for collet work my lathe was to be scraped as all in bits but was given all service sheets so had no problem with the re build and spent time refurbishing all the brass plates used spray can then wet and dry paper to Finnish and clear lacquer


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk


----------



## jmm03

Hello all, resurrected high school industrial arts class machine. Had about a quarter inch of green paint on it,at the end of the school year the shop instructor would have the kids paint all the machines to keep them busy. It kept everything well preserved. Jim


----------



## rex21

Before and after. This was 3 years ago. I replaced the missing covers since then and have made a lot of chips.









How it sits now:


----------



## aametalmaster

I know we said lathes but this is my SBL baby too...Bob


----------



## JW714

My 1952 model A


----------



## Bemac50

This is my 1962 Model A


----------



## 8675309

Here she is...circa 1943ish. Just got it about three weeks ago, so I've been redoing the wiring, cleaning, etc. Anybody recognize that micrometer carriage stop on the right? That one came with the lathe and I haven't been able to ascertain whether its original equipment or not. I just picked up the smaller one.


----------



## woodtickgreg

The one on the left is oem, the one on the right probably came off of another brand of lathe, but it would work.


----------



## 8675309

woodtickgreg said:


> The one on the left is oem, the one on the right probably came off of another brand of lathe, but it would work.


Thanks for the input. I was thinking the same thing. I'm going to do some research as I'd like to sell the larger one and need to determine who to market it to.


----------



## comstock-friend

My Model A (9 Inch Model A, s_n 38987NAR9, CL644A, 4-2-1956) spinning this weekend for the first time in my 30 year ownership (don't ask!). Note the added rear dovetail (previous owner) and mount for cut off blade (which I have).

John


----------



## kennyv

Here is my SB Heavy 10 Tool Room Lathe  (my little buddy  always wanted )
I picked  it up in June .. turn key... pretty much got all the fixings with it . To date  only needed to replace a cross feed nut ...    I believe  1963 is the  year by cereal # . I thought with suffix X it was flame hardened ways   but its not, for that year meant extra  features/ options purchased w/ lathe. O well  wut ya gona do? .....  its not in bad shape tho  runs smoothe , and tight , has a nice gear box  lota range  like 4-460 TPI  . Sure I find something to do with it . fur now  Im content w/ it


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## VSAncona

I bought my 9A last June, but just recently got it set up in my shop. It was made in 1963 and I bought it from the original owner. It came with a ton of accessories and tooling.


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## DoogieB

That's a really clean, as-factory 9A, Vince!  Looks like that lathe was well maintained.  Nice Eagle oilers, too, but you are going to need a bigger shelf.


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## kennyv

Very "clean " looks juts like the ones we had in HS


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## HMF

Very nice clean restoration.


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## bisley45

Here is my 1941 war production 9" model A


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## Charles Spencer

Love that out rigger countershaft stand.  I'd only seen them in old literature before.


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## bisley45

Ye you don't see them often at all. And not a lot a info on the interweb either.

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## kennyv

bisley45 said:


> Here is my 1941 war production 9" model A


 Beautiful  machine and /or restore   she deserved to be full size pic posted maybe u can edit click full image ..  again nice machine


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## thenrie

Here's my 1947 SB9A!  I'll have better pictures in a few weeks.


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## HMF

cuseguy said:


> My 1979 Heavy 10 has a few new paint scratches since it's rebuild 8 weeks ago! I just added a bed turret since I do alot of repetitive op work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 67982
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
> 
> View attachment 67982



Hi guy,

I have a 1973 I want to rebuilt. I have the sliding turret also. I would be lucky if it would ever look as wonderful as yours.
Use it in good health man!

Nels


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## hrolen

this is my 1941 Defense plant corporation heavy 10 with taper attachment. When I started the clean and paint I did not know much about the machine or lathes in general. When I began cleaning I found the brass DPC tag on the pedestal. The number on that tag was stamped under the tag as well. As I went through the process I found that number was stamped on the bed the apron the tailstock etc. Also when polishing the collets I found that number etched on the ends with a vibrating pen. It seems everything has been together since WWII! I am missing the collet closer/drawbar and a few odds and ends but oh well! Thanks to forums like this I have been able to learn a lot about these machines and how to repair them. Thanks!I would also like to know if anyone knows anything about these lathes with a the defense plant corporation tags. I have researched the DPC and found out it was charted by Congress in 40' to prepare for the war and was disbanded in 1945 after the war. Any info would be appreciated!
	

		
			
		

		
	







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## joebiplane

I love blue.     No matter what color it is!


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## hrolen

That's the odd thing, I believe blue is the original color. I found it under the tags etc. I know the man who had it and he bought it from a machine resale place in the early sixties. That color is Ford tractor blue and it was very close match to the original. Very unusual for a south bend color.

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## thenrie

You're missing the bed bracket for your taper attachment. It is common to remove it when the taper attachment is not being used, to save wear on the way as it slides up and down the way when the carriage is being moved. Once removed, they get misplaced, which is why a lot of lathes with a taper attachment are missing that bracket.


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## hrolen

Actually, the bed bracket is integral to the collet rack in the second picture. The collet rack bolts to the bed bracket.

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## thenrie

The brackets look the same, the same casting, but the bed bracket for the taper attachment has two holes for babbit to be poured in once the taper attachment is aligned. The bed bracket for the collet holder does not. I suppose one could drill the collet holder bracket and accomplish the same thing. The thing is that the taper attachment should be properly aligned, then the bracket put in place on the rod and babbit poured in to set the alignment and keep it in proper alignment. Also, you don't really want the weight of a fully-stocked collet holder to be sliding up and down the way with your taper attachment. Notice the taper attachment bracket does not have the threaded hole where the collet holder threads in.


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## hrolen

That's very interesting. I didn't know that the bracket slid on the ways. I thought it was affixed to the bed and pushed/pulled the taper attachment when it was in use. As you can see, my collet bracket has the holes for the Babbitt material along with a square head set screw. I'm not sure if this is original or a modification over its last 74 years. It appears to be correct but who knows. Would anyone happen to have info on proper taper attachment alignment procedures?should the taper be engaged all of the time only set straight for a straight cut? Right now I have the handle removed, but I'm just curious. Did the collet rack piece you showed me have an adjustment underneath for alignment? The one pictured has adjustment underneath. 
	

		
			
		

		
	




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## thenrie

We should probably be discussing this on another thread. Yes, that is the proper bed bracket for the taper attachment. I'm not an expert, but I'm guessing somebody drilled/tapped this one for the collet rack, or maybe some came that way from the factory. The taper attachment must be properly aligned to be exactly parallel with the bed in order to function accurately. So, you align it with a dial indicator, then slide the bed bracket onto the rod and the bed way, clamp it firmly on the bed way, then set it in the proper position on the rod with washers and nut. Then you pour molten babbit into one of the holes until it comes out the other hole and let it cool. Once cool, you can remove the bracket and put it back on again and still have the taper attachment in perfect alignment. To use the taper attachment you have to lock the bracket on the bed so that the cross slide will follow the angle set on the taper attachment, but while it is not in use, you loosen the bed bracket so that the whole taper attachment slides on the way as the saddle moves up and down the ways, which is why most folks simply remove it when not in use. Most hobbiests seldom use the taper attachment.

That square-head lock screw you have on yours is to lock a collet closer holder in place, not for adjusting the taper attachment rod.


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## kennyv

WoW ! nice job ... it amazes me  to see an abandoned broken looken aged  machine   comeback to life with some TLC ...  clean paint job too  can ask what inspired the blue?..
btw . Im a grey man myself .
 Now That is a 10' heavy I have a 60's  model and for some reason the older ones look so much more beefy guess its the pic no?  .. now definitely u can see it in the base and chip pan  over the cabinet models. I have a an older south bend at work looks juts like your lathe has the star wheel for feed engagement  gota be a 40's model

Since I have you felas attention on Southbend and taper attachments wanted to toss something out  if ya don't mind me asking. I have a 1963 SB heavy 10 tool room lathe.It has everything for it less the taper attachment . Now I may have available a taper attach  that come off a 13 Southbend   and was looking  to mybe retrofit  for my lathe . I took a look at it and the only downfall is its bigger. Do ya think it will be too big or wont  matter ?  the way height for clamp are a bit larger but don't se why I cant modiphy  to accommodate.  Now I know the bolt holes for mounting will be spaced wider but dont see why i cant modipy that either.   I can pick it up cheap  first do you think I will fit the machine well  w/ retrofit or not worth the troubles? Thanks guys ill prob start a thread so I can get some more opinions as well .


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## hrolen

Kennyv, as odd as it sounds, I believe the blue is original. The machine is a war finish meaning it wasn't smoothed over as they used minimal filler and paint. The man I bought it off of purchased it in the early sixties and it was blue then. I am actively looking for any one who has any information about a similar color scheme on other south bend lathes.


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## thenrie

Kennyv, I'm looking at my old South Bend catalog and it shows part number CL1545R as the taper attachment for the "Heavy 10" and the same part number for the 13, 14-1/2, 16, and 16-24 lathes, with the exception of the trailing letter - R, T, F, and H (H for both 16 and 16-24) respectively. All of the listed lathes have a different "Swing Over Cross Slide" measurement, so the difference may only be in the cross slide length, as each lathe would need a different cross slide casting. I'm not absolutely sure of that though, as the weights go from 45lbs for the 10L to 100lbs for the 16. If you could find a taper attachment cross slide casting for a 10L, I'm thinking the rest of the unit might fit. If not, they're in high demand, so you could re-sell it if it didn't work. By the way, just to keep things in perspective. We all love to "accessorize" our lathes as we refurbish them, however very few people I know of actually use the taper attachment except very rarely. It's one of those things that's nice if you need it, but the need rarely arises.

Hrolen, my little SB9 had a coat of blue on it as well. As I was cleaning the bed yesterday I found the tag that indicates mine was also a war production machine. My lathe, however had at least two coats of paint, though, the first being South Bend gray. My lathe will be going back to the gray color.


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## blacknblue

I just bought what I believe to be a SB 10" x 36" 1911 open gear lathe with a model A 3-speed trans. V's and ways seem very straight, action tight.
I will disassemble all shafts and check clearances. I have a 2hp that I believe is too much motor. Looking for 3/4 or 1 hp. I'm new to the club and 
this is my first post. Anyone else working a dinosaur out there?


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## blacknblue

I am not sure what this is. Early SB or possibly a clone? The only number I could find was on the tailstock shoulder flat with 886 stamped in. All other numbers are cast identifications.No serial number near back of lathe , between ways.
The castings have no area for covers. This is a finger-eater. I have done a cosmetic clean-up and am working on a motor. Any help or opinions would be appreciated, Norm


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## blacknblue

I still am trying to figure this out as to date and make of lathe. No serial numbers, The number 886 stamped on the tailstock, and today I found the number 17 stamped between the tailstock base plate. South Bend? 1914-1917? It's a 10 x 36. It could handle 11" barely.


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## woodtickgreg

I do not think it is a south bend, not like any that I have seen. But I am not an expert and i could be wrong. Some parts look south bend ish, and others not at all.


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## aametalmaster

I don't think SB either. The gears inside the headstock on the left side don't add up. Also looks like flat ways in the back. Just my thoughts...Bob


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## blacknblue

Thanks guys, I have looked at thousands of pictures and still have not found a match. I thought maybe a Flather or Barns but ruled them out. 
It belongs to some company and is really quite tight. Thanks for your comments.


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## armorer198401

Here is my 9a. Serial #14133NAR9





A couple before/afters of my restoration. She didn't need much work, just a cleaning, new felts, some adjustments and a new coat of paint. 





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## VSAncona

Armorer -- That's a really nice lathe and doesn't look like it has seen much use. What is the back story on it? How did you find it and what is its history?


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## armorer198401

VSAncona said:


> Armorer -- That's a really nice lathe and doesn't look like it has seen much use. What is the back story on it? How did you find it and what is its history?


Thanks! Here is the story behind it. It was ordered by a man in Lincoln, NE and shipped to Baker Hardware in December of 1948. He worked for the railroad and used the lathe to make model trains. When he died his son inherited the lathe and it sat pretty much dormant since then. When he got a divorce a year ago he had to sell everything in his shop to downsize. He put it on Craigslist for $400 and I bought it sight unseen. It came with the bench which had 4 drawers full of tooling, as well as 4 buckets full of tooling. I didn't really know how good of shape it was in until I got it home and started disassembling it for cleaning. There wasn't anything wrong with the old girl, just decades of gummy oil with dust and dirt. And, of course, the gear cover hinge pin is loose. I still need to fix that. 

I am in the process of making a new bench for it  out of a steel base and a thick concrete top.


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## 'Topcraft

Afternoon gentlemen. I just picked up a heavy 10 that I am trying to date. The Southbend serial number page is a little confusing so I am looking for some other opinions. I can't post pics for awhile, but here is the info. model # CL187RB, serial number #2375R , 4.5 foot bed. It has a taper attachment, extended range gearbox, flame hardened bed. The apron has the lever clutch instead of the " star wheel " type. I come up with a 1988 date, but I am probably wrong. (hope not) I intended to wait till spring to buy a Southbend, but this one was way too nice to pass on. believe it or not, I see no backlash at all on the compound, about .010 on the crossfeed, and no noticeable backlash on the carriage. I believe this was a toolroom lathe, but then again, I could be wrong. It runs extremely quiet even in backgear. I paid the same price I would of if I had bought an 80 year old SB. Plus it came with the heavy sheetmetal bench, 3 and 4 jaw chucks, a steady rest, a removable plexiglass chuck guard, a 3 phase motor on the lathe, and a brand new single phase ready to go in if I wish. I have been doing the happy dance since I picked it up this morning.


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## 'Topcraft

whups, meant to start a new thread, sorry about that. Mods feel free to move this if you wish


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## dlane

Thanks to all that resized and loaded full size pictures


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## uncle harry

'Topcraft said:


> Afternoon gentlemen. I just picked up a heavy 10 that I am trying to date. The Southbend serial number page is a little confusing so I am looking for some other opinions. I can't post pics for awhile, but here is the info. model # CL187RB, serial number #2375R , 4.5 foot bed. It has a taper attachment, extended range gearbox, flame hardened bed. The apron has the lever clutch instead of the " star wheel " type. I come up with a 1988 date, but I am probably wrong. (hope not) I intended to wait till spring to buy a Southbend, but this one was way too nice to pass on. believe it or not, I see no backlash at all on the compound, about .010 on the crossfeed, and no noticeable backlash on the carriage. I believe this was a toolroom lathe, but then again, I could be wrong. It runs extremely quiet even in backgear. I paid the same price I would of if I had bought an 80 year old SB. Plus it came with the heavy sheetmetal bench, 3 and 4 jaw chucks, a steady rest, a removable plexiglass chuck guard, a 3 phase motor on the lathe, and a brand new single phase ready to go in if I wish. I have been doing the happy dance since I picked it up this morning.



Nice score !  Maybe some of my luck rubbed off (hee hee).  I'm almost envious but then again I have the Harrison M300 for competition.


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## Manderioli

I bit the bullet over the weekend and picked up a SBL 9a lathe so I can finish reconditioning my Van Norman mill. Overall I'm very satisfied with the purchase. Although like any piece of used machinery there is room for improvement. 

I am a little concerned about the serial number stamped into the bed. 21890NAR9 is the serial number. According to the formula of (21890^0.0059)*1812 the bed comes up as 1922. Any suggestions to the actual year? 

This week, I should receive new tools for the lathe. Once I finish turning new bronze bearings, I'll work on a better work bench designed for the lathe. Here is a picture tonight after setting up the countershaft, adjusting belt tensions, and giving it a spin.


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## aametalmaster

1950...Bob


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## comstock-friend

Manderioli said:


> I am a little concerned about the serial number stamped into the bed. 21890NAR9 is the serial number. According to the formula of (21890^0.0059)*1812 the bed comes up as 1922. Any suggestions to the actual year?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 129176



Yes, between these two known s/n's:

5/2/1949 16513 NKR7
12/6/1950 22487 NAR9

John


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## comstock-friend

Manderioli said:


> Once I finish turning new bronze bearings, I'll work on a better work bench designed for the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 129176



I think you'll find that the spindle runs directly in the cast iron head stock (no bronze bushings) unless someone fitted them in the past. Looks like the lathe hasn't been too abused, your iron bearings will likely be OK and best left alone if possible.

Would require line boring to do fit bushings; tough task, although it has been done.

John


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## Manderioli

comstock-friend said:


> I think you'll find that the spindle runs directly in the cast iron head stock (no bronze bushings) unless someone fitted them in the past. Looks like the lathe hasn't been too abused, your iron bearings will likely be OK and best left alone if possible.
> 
> Would require line boring to do fit bushings; tough task, although it has been done.
> 
> John


 The bronze bushings are for my countershaft on the van Norman mill. One of them is worn past 0.025" causing the second bearing behind it on the shaft to over heat. 

I couldn't justify buying a project lathe when I needed a good lathe to complete the van Norman project. 

A little history from previous owner-lathe was bought by an ametuer machinist (supposedly new) and willed the lathe to his best friend's son. The son barely used it and left it alone for the past 13 years. Then sold it to the owner I bought it from who used it for BB gun smithing. He sold the machine to me because he found another 9a that he liked more.


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## ZMB KLR

1943 10L.  Has the war production badge and very limited use of brass.  The collet holder is the original wood.  Came with a bunch of tool holders, and a couple phase II QCTP's that I'm going to end up selling to get an Aloris AXA. 3 phase motor will get a VFD upgrade.  I'm going to run it as it but clean out and install new software. It will eventually get new paint.  Probably the original OD green.


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## ZMB KLR

1943 10L.  Has the war production badge and very limited use of brass.  The collet holder is the original wood.  Came with a bunch of tool holders, and a couple phase II QCTP's that I'm going to end up selling to get an Aloris AXA. Albrecht drill chuck mixed in with a couple Jacobs, box of carbide indexable inserts. A couple 3 jaw chucks in the included small cabinet. 3 phase motor will get a VFD upgrade.  I'm going to run it as it but clean out and install new software. It will eventually get new paint.  Probably the original OD green.


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## thenrie

Some before/after shots of the refurb of my SB9A. Finally got her back up and running.


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## Charles Spencer

Well I got this one:




And this one:




Then I got a good deal on another 9C so I bought it to keep in a box for spare parts.  It was dirty but basically in very good shape.  Then I found a 9A cheap that wasn't in very good shape at all.  So I kept that one for spares and decided to clean up the other 9C I had and sell it.

I disassembled and checked everything but the headstock, which seemed fine.  Not much wear to the bed when I checked it with a machinist level and precision square.  I think it cleaned up nicely:








Now I wanna keep it.  Oh well.


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## Gorderfarms

1914 13x7 SN 4783


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## Technical Ted

Here's a picture of my 15" with 6 ft bed early 1930's South Bend. Model #188-C. I made the carriage stop and threading dial when I was first learning machining work 35+ years ago.


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## 682bear

My South Bend 14 1/2...






As I bought it... pretty nasty...




It had not been powered up in 20 something years... but it seems to be very tight and cuts well. I have not had a chance to thoroughly test it, yet.

-Bear


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## Steven K

Has anyone ever spray welded a lathe way to build it up and than ground the lathe way straight.I have an old South Bend lathe that someone did a lot of tool post grinding on.There is wear under the chuck about twelve inches long.The rest of the way is still straight and not worn.My thought is to repair this area and build a grinder that would ride on the non-worn part of the way to grind the area to be repaired.I have seen shaft bearing surfaces spray welded and than reground to repair the shaft.Thought this might be a way to fix this problem.


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## Lordbeezer

Here's my 10k cl 770 rg gap bed just finished restoring.made appx 1965..put a dc motor on it.has 16 speed v belt headstock..don't have a tail stock yet..came out of a school in the mountains of eastern Tennessee.


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## Lordbeezer

Don't have any idea why so many pictures posted.could someone please tell me. Thanks


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## thenrie

Lordbeezer said:


> Don't have any idea why so many pictures posted.could someone please tell me. Thanks



I don't think anybody minds too much. Sometimes it takes a minute for a file to load. If you keep trying to re-load it, it will sometimes end up posting multiple times.


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## woodtickgreg

Happens a lot with cellphones sometimes.


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## Twalther

Here is my 1972 high school 10K after referb.


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## uncle harry

Twalther said:


> Here is my 1972 high school 10K after referb.



I used one exactly like yours that I bought for  a research division of a sign company back in '96. A sweet machine totally tight and wonderful to use.  This brings nice memories. Thanks


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## Joseph Durnya

Wish i had some pics of my WW2 heavy 10 from back in the day.. but here is whats on deck  13 x 6 and a 16 x 8   the 13 will be a keeper and unfortunately the 16 will be a flipper... not enough room for 1 nevermind 2 !!


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## craptain

Steven K said:


> Has anyone ever spray welded a lathe way to build it up and than ground the lathe way straight.I have an old South Bend lathe that someone did a lot of tool post grinding on.There is wear under the chuck about twelve inches long.The rest of the way is still straight and not worn.My thought is to repair this area and build a grinder that would ride on the non-worn part of the way to grind the area to be repaired.I have seen shaft bearing surfaces spray welded and than reground to repair the shaft.Thought this might be a way to fix this problem.


I don't know about welding, but Turcite is the usual material to repair the ways. Definitely not an easy or inexpensive option though. 

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## craptain

I am the new owner of a 9" South Bend, apparently from 1938. I truly know very little about it so far and would appreciate any help. The deciding factor in the purchase was the tooling etc that came with it. Including Toolpost grinder, milling attachment and a fairly good selection of collets. It is still sitting in my trailer, and might have to stay there a little longer until I make room in my shop. I have a 10" Atlas that will stay until I have completed an ongoing project. It is sitting where I need to put the South Bend. 
	

		
			
		

		
	










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## Lordbeezer

Nice lathe.you did very well on tooling.


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## Janderso

This is my 1941 13" South Bend and the Bridgeport.


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## Superburban

Here is my new to me 55 vintage 16" has both 4 & 3 jaw chucks, full set of 5c collets and collet accessories, and with a tray that can be mounted above the head stock, or tail stock. Most of a 4 way tool post, and most of a steady rest. Has noticeable wear on the ways, but nothing that will affect my use.


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## Tubby

xalky said:


> I'd love to convert my 1938 model b to a model a with the quick change gears. Is it an easy conversion ? Where would I go about looking for the gear box?


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## Kevin T

Tried for a dramatic presentation of my 1941 Tool Room Lathe. She is my pride and joy.


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