# How to make simple part



## tsperry88 (Oct 25, 2020)

I'm new here. I am handy at making things, but never machined anything, ran a mill, ect. I have a basic part to make and have access to a Jet JMD-15. Unfortunately I don't have access to someone who knows how to use it. Attached is my part. Made from 0.125" aluminum square stock. Do I need to rough cut it on the bandsaw first? Would I use something like a flycutter to clean it up on the mill? I know its pretty basic, but could someone give me some pointers?


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## SLK001 (Oct 25, 2020)

Yes, rough cut your tubing first.  A beginner should probably NEVER use a fly cutter.  Use an end mill.  Depending on what the end use is, you can either cut to the bottom of the cut with the end mill, or stop short and use a flat file to finish.

Also, what is a Jet JMD-15?


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## tsperry88 (Oct 25, 2020)

It's just an inexpensive basic mill I think. A friend has it but never used it. The 1/2" lip is just for mounting, so I can cut slightly deep with the endmill.


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## brino (Oct 25, 2020)

@tsperry88,

When you said aluminum square stock, I "heard" solid.
When @SLK001 said "tube" I had to go back and re-read.
Okay, right 1/8 wall tube.....got it!

Yes, I'd pre-cut to almost finished size, and then clean it up on the mill (or with a file).

Welcome to the group!

-brino


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## tsperry88 (Oct 25, 2020)

Thanks. I know I could clean it up with a file or block and make it look nice. Just trying to make it look more professional.


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## deakin (Oct 25, 2020)

aahhh, im confused. what is the op actually wanting to accomplish?


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## T Bredehoft (Oct 25, 2020)

tsperry88 said:


> I'm new here. I am handy at making things, but never machined anything, ran a mill, ect. I have a basic part to make and have access to a Jet JMD-15. Unfortunately I don't have access to someone who knows how to use it. Attached is my part. Made from 0.125" aluminum square stock. Do I need to rough cut it on the bandsaw first? Would I use something like a flycutter to clean it up on the mill? I know its pretty basic, but could someone give me some pointers?


I dunno if this will get to you, seems to be a problem with the web today.  Bandsaw, leaving 1/16th. Using a 1/4 to 3.8" endmill in the Jet, holding the work in a machine vise, (and the cutter in a collet, not the drill chuck)  machine the   rough edges to your   already drawn dimensions. Take it easy, run the mill (professional courtesy Keeps me from calling it a mill/drill,)at fairly high speed, keep a light oil on the cutter, WD 40 will do, but not well. Take each cut in two passes, with the cutter to the right side of the work,  moving the wrok toward you, otherwise the cutter will try to pull the work into it. (Bad News)


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## T Bredehoft (Oct 25, 2020)

Use the side of the end mill, not the end, except at the bottom of the cut.


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## Chewy (Oct 25, 2020)

The only thing not stated so far is that the part needs to be square with the table.  The vise is usually dial indicated in so it aligns with the X axis, (The long tee slots in the table).  In your case a good carpenters' or machinist square should be sufficient.  If you don't have a vise, you can place the part on a flat piece of wood for space and clamp to the table.  You MUST clamp enough or provide for some way that piece can't turn if you take to deep of a cut.  A piece of wood or metal in the tee slot should be enough.  Push it up against it and clamp.  If you have a vise, problem solved.  Welcome to the forum.

If you do have a vise and dial indicator, tell us and we will walk you through the setup or recommend some videos.


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## SLK001 (Oct 25, 2020)

As Chewy says, setup is a fairly important step.  I assumed that you would have known that, but perhaps it needs to be clarified.

If you don't have a good, solid vise for your mill, then you are going to have to use hold downs that use the T-slots (they come in sets).  If you don't have either of these, then I suggest that you GET one or the other.  The part must become one with the table for not only accomplishing your objective, but for safety reasons too.

Another option is to use a table saw with a good carbide tipped blade.  It will cut aluminum all day long.  It might even be easier to do on a table saw.


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## NortonDommi (Oct 26, 2020)

Good little series from Quin at Blondiehacks here you might find of use before you start. 




  The points made about ensuring the work is secure are paramount!


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## NortonDommi (Oct 26, 2020)

Just in case you are interested A review of the mill/drill in question popped up.




  Should be a good tool to cut your teeth on.


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## Chewy (Oct 26, 2020)

I just thought of this, since you are new to machining. You have to mill down about 1/58".  That is not a problem if you have the right end mills. Most likely, with the stuff at hand, you will find that the cutting flutes may be from 3/4" to maybe 1-1/2" long.  The problem is that in a perfect world with rigid machines and new sharp end mills, you can probably plunge straight down or make a couple of passes to get to your depth.  More than likely, once you get pass the cutting flutes, the body of the end mill will rub on the metal above. The flutes will most likely be a little worn.  You may have to back the end mill away from the cut about 1/2 thousand.  With what you are making that shouldn't be a problem.  On a rocket ship, yeah, but on a bracket, no.  In search of perfection, this can be solved in two easy ways, which I wouldn't bother with right now, starting out.  1.  Buy an end mill with flutes longer than the piece you are milling.  2. Buy a reduced shank end mill, say 5/8" on a 1/2 shank.  The you are limited to the length of the end mill from bottom to face of the holder.

Clamp the piece down straight, tight and go for it!!!!


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## Larry$ (Oct 26, 2020)

Wear safety glasses and keep you hands away. If the part comes loose it can chop up anything it hits. Watch some videos. ThatLazyMachinist has excellent instructional videos. Google his name. Find a video, click on his name in the video up will pop his page showing all his videos. Select a series then a video or use search.


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## Chewy (Oct 26, 2020)

Absolutly with safety glasses!!!! No long clothes or jewelry.  I personally hate aluminum cuttings.  They are sharper than steel.  Use a brush to clean away,  Do NOT use bare fingers.  It can take days to get them to beal out of your skin!!


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## tsperry88 (Oct 27, 2020)

Thanks everybody. The pointers are quite helpful. It will be a few days until I get a chance to work on things. I'll have more questions then I can sure.


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## tsperry88 (Nov 2, 2020)

I took inventory of what we have. We have a full set of collets except 1/2, probably the most common size We have a bunch of endmills, even a 1/2 with 3/8 shank, but they dont feel super sharp. We have a fairly decent vice I think, but no dial indicator. For this simple project I though about clamping a staight edge in the vice and run the x axis to it's stops each direction and squaring off the endmill shank with a feeler gauge. I probably should buy a dial indicator ....

I'll give the mill a try this week. I have my materials on the way.


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## brino (Nov 2, 2020)

It can be done with just a straight shaft in the collet. That's a little easier than with an end-mill.



tsperry88 said:


> I probably should buy a dial indicator ....



Yep. Heavily recommended. A magnetic base and arm for it too.
They do NOT have to be super expensive ones.

Lee Valley Tools has a simple set for only $50.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...ng/32525-dial-indicator-and-base?item=88N3120

Little Machine Shop has a basic set for half that price:
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1593&category=

My preferred is a dial test indicator held in the spindle and run against the vise fixed jaw.
Here's a basic DTI for $30:
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1249&category=

The same magnetic base could be used for either instrument.

-brino


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## tsperry88 (Nov 3, 2020)

I was looking at these:









						Center Cut End Mill | Little Machine Shop End Mills
					

Used for removing material from a workpiece and leaving a smooth finish, this center cut end mill has a 4 flute design. Order for your workshop today.




					littlemachineshop.com
				





What does it mean when it says if greater swarf removal is desired to use a 2 flute endmill?


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## Jim F (Nov 14, 2020)

tsperry88 said:


> I was looking at these:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


2 flutes are for softer and stickier materials, 4 flutes are for steel, etc.


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## Larry$ (Nov 15, 2020)

There is more gullet space on a 2 flute. End mills, even the ones called center cutting don't cut in the center because there is little or no relative motion at dead center.  A great device for holding indicators is the single point of lock like the Noga. Get one with the fine adjustment on the mag base. It allows you to bring the indicator to zero w/o wiggling it all over the place. Once you have the indicator in place very gently tap the arm to make sure the indicator has settled and not hung up. Cheaper indicators can be jumpy because their action isn't as smooth. You aren't (usually) measuring with an indicator, you are comparing.


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