# Cover hinges



## Gene (Feb 28, 2014)

Does anyone have any hints for removing the very rusty pins that hold the headstock and side cover on? I am afraid of breaking off the lugs that they go through. The machine is an Atlas TH42. I am also having trouble removing the three jaw chuck also rusted tight. Thanks in advance for any help.


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## JimDawson (Feb 28, 2014)

A lot of PB Blaster and a little heat?  And a lot of patients.


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## Gene (Feb 28, 2014)

I have tried that approach Sandy. I am afraid to use a bar of some type to hold anything from turning in the headstock. Any Ideas?


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## 12bolts (Feb 28, 2014)

Gene,
Many times here members have been faced with a stuck chuck. Perseverence with some type of penetrating oil, brute force and perhaps a little bit of heat has worked for most.
Try letting some "fluid" soak around the spindle threads overnight or longer. Open the jaws and squirt some up the inside as well. If you lock the spindle and use a large bar as a lever mounted sideways across the face of the chuck, and hang a weight off there. Dont use a hammer on the chuck key!

cheers Phil


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## Gene (Feb 28, 2014)

Thanks to Sandy and Phil and a lot sweat the chuck finally gave up and came off.


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## 12bolts (Mar 1, 2014)

Thats good to hear. Now what about those pesky hinge pins?

Cheers Phil


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## uncle harry (Mar 1, 2014)

There is a publication titled "Farm Show" which features projects & products made or bought by farmers, ranchers and other clever folks.  A while back they published an evaluation study of the various popular penetrating fluids. Included were WD-40, Blaster, Kroil, Liquid Wrench and some others as well as a 50-50% mix of ATF & acetone.  The home-grown 50-50 mix beat all others for time to work hands down & by a large margin.  It probably wants ventilation around while using because of the acetone content.

If it ever gets warmer here in Wisconsin I'll be mixin' up a batch. Heaven knows I have enough things to free up around my digs.


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## Gene (Mar 1, 2014)

For the time being, I am just going to remove covers and hinges as one from machine and set aside . Now that I managed to get the chuck off, I want to begin to disassemble the Headstock and also the Apron. Would it be better to remove the Apron along with the Lead screw or slip it off with Lead screw still on the lathe. I do not want to risk bending the Lead screw.


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## Mondo (Mar 1, 2014)

Gene said:


> For the time being, I am just going to remove covers and hinges as one from machine and set aside . Now that I managed to get the chuck off, I want to begin to disassemble the Headstock and also the Apron. Would it be better to remove the Apron along with the Lead screw or slip it off with Lead screw still on the lathe. I do not want to risk bending the Lead screw.



If not already done, remove the tailstock by sliding it off the right end of the bed.
Open the split nuts on the apron by lifting the lever then remove the leadscrew bearing at the right end of the bed leaving it on the leadscrew.  Now slide the leadscrew out to the right.  There is nothing securing it to the drive gearing at the headstock end so it will pull out easily.   Loosen the carriage gibs at the back of the carriage then crank the carriage all the way to the right and slide it off the bed.  You can now service the apron and carriage on your work bench.  

Putting the carriage back on the bed is is the exact reverse procedure.


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## Glmphoto (Mar 1, 2014)

Having refurbed  several pieces now I can surely agree with the comments on this thread. I can add that when a new (old) machine comes to my "waiting to be refurbed area" the first thing I do is spray EVERYTHING with a liberal amount of PB Blast. Then through out the days and weeks that follow I continue to spray all areas that even look like a mechanical attachment. On smaller items I have a 5 Gallon bucket full of motor oil. I once threw the most ridiculously rusted and seized drill chuck in it and left it for a year.  I never did get it freed up..LOL   but my point is be patient. Spray it up and let things marinate.


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## markknx (Mar 2, 2014)

I agree with give them time to soak. I will try to move parts and if I get alittle move I will respary them, and let them soak some more. If you look at the arbor prees I posted here this spring I found at the scrap yard it took a couple days to get everything apart. I am yet to try the acetone and ATF mix. A Harry did the article say who was best of the comercial penetraters?


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## Cobra (Mar 2, 2014)

It sounds counter-intuitive but on parts that will move a little I have had good luck with water instead of oil based products. Once it is loose, then dry and recoat with oil or WD40.


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## uncle harry (Mar 3, 2014)

markknx said:


> I agree with give them time to soak. I will try to move parts and if I get alittle move I will respary them, and let them soak some more. If you look at the arbor prees I posted here this spring I found at the scrap yard it took a couple days to get everything apart. I am yet to try the acetone and ATF mix. A Harry did the article say who was best of the comercial penetraters?


Uncle Harry here:  Sorry to say that I don't remember. I don't keep back issues of Farm Show, I usually give them to local friends who are more into cobbling and tinkering with farm stuff.


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## uncle harry (Mar 3, 2014)

uncle harry said:


> Uncle Harry here:  Sorry to say that I don't remember. I don't keep back issues of Farm Show, I usually give them to local friends who are more into cobbling and tinkering with farm stuff.


 Uncle Harry here again:
*HOLY HAND GRENADES BATMAN* !, I searched the _FARM SHOW Magazine_ & found the article.  They were reporting on an article featured originally in _MACHINIST_ _WORKSHOP MAGAZINE_ who described a test on "scientifically" rusted nuts.  The results were: Nothing: 516#,  WD-40: 238#, PB Blaster: 214#, Liquid Wrench: 127#, Kano Kroil, 106# AND.....ATF-Acetone mix: 53#... a nearly 10:1 advantage. Kroil has the advantage of  better VOC and inhalation health safety factors.  Kroil is made by Kano Laboratories.  WD-40 has a specific PENATRANT SPRAY product (not to be confused with the regular WD-40 that we've been relying on all these years) 

FARM SHOW Magazine has archives online going back about 38 years. They allow 3 free searches before having to subscribe.  

I already have a fresh gallon of acetone & it won't take much to gather up some ATF. Bring on Spring and the rust !


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## Lewes (Mar 3, 2014)

Try letting them soak overnight in brake fluid. Works like a charm for rusted bolts on cars.

Luis.


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## iron man (Mar 3, 2014)

I have never in my life seen a penetrating oil that really penetrated once I got anything apart there is no evidence that the oil ever made it down there. If it does not come apart easy cut the pin support it correctly and drive or press it out. On cast iron or steel we would always heat it to a dull red and quench it in water the sudden rapid heat quench would break the rust bond and turn the rust into harmless carbon. I would not apply heat to aluminum it will do nothing but gall and then you will be in a world of hurt.. Ray


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## TomKro (Mar 3, 2014)

Gene:

Not sure if this is the same situation with your hinge pins, but I had a bunch of trouble separating the pin from between the castings of a Logan gear cover and hinge casting.  

First, I used sanding cloth to clean any rust/paint/trash from the intermediate spaces on the pin between the castings.   In order to avoid breaking off the casting "ears" I hand drilled the end of the pin and tapped it for a 1/4-20 screw.  I then used oversized Belleville washers (ID larger than the pin) between the casting and oversize washers placed on the screw.  If you stack up a few of those spring washers, it applies a nice even pressure to help pull out the pin as you turn the screw in to jack the pin out.     

As previously stated, this may not be the same situation.    Another down side is that it puts a threaded hole in the end of your pin and you may have to replace the pin.   

Good luck.


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## Bill C. (Mar 3, 2014)

Gene said:


> Thanks to Sandy and Phil and a lot sweat the chuck finally gave up and came off.



GLAD you got it off.  

I was going to comment sometimes the lathes I would be assigned to the chuck had to be switch out. I used to use a 2"x 4" about 4' long. Insert it between the jaws and tighten, put the lathe in lowest gear and give it a hard jerk to loosen.  If that didn't work then I would use a big ball-pien hammer and hit the board.


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## Gene (Mar 3, 2014)

Thanks folks, I think I have enough Info to get it done. The covers attached to the mounts are off and put away until I can get to them. There Is about 4 inches of snow and I have to work outside.


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## machinist18 (Mar 5, 2014)

The article on home made penetrating fluid was originally in the April/May 2007 edition of Machinists Workshop magazine. It was later mentioned in Farm Show. I have mixed up the 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone and it works well but you need to keep it in a tight container or the acetone wll evaporat off.


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## uncle harry (Mar 5, 2014)

machinist18 said:


> The article on home made penetrating fluid was originally in the April/May 2007 edition of Machinists Workshop magazine. It was later mentioned in Farm Show. I have mixed up the 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone and it works well but you need to keep it in a tight container or the acetone wll evaporat off.



We here near Milwaukee WI have 2 HF stores to tempt us.  They have small polyethylene squeeze bottles with metal tubes & nozzle tips which can be turned to close the spout.  I keep several way & spindle lube as well as the acetone/ATF stuff that I intend to mix up come Spring. The spout tubes can be bent to personal taste. They are also available from HF on line.


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