# A shop made saw arbor for the Burke #4 wit a vertical head.



## Benji (Jun 24, 2012)

Isn't it funny how the minute you add something new, you need additional tooling?
I have worked with my horizontal mill for years and I have it tooled well, finally. I just added a vertical head, that was part of a trade. I have never felt the need for a vertical head but now I have one and it presently on the little Burke

I have been working on repairing a damaged cross feed screw for a taper attachment on my South bend Heavy 10.
My mill is a Burke #4 and at present it is set up with a vertical head I have recently obtained. I had used the vertical head to put a half round keyway into the 5/16 portion of the cross slide shaft. Not that I needed the vertical head, I have done this before without it. 

I next wanted to make a pair of slotted nuts for the ball crank handle. These needed to be slotted.

Normally that’s a snap job on the horizontal mill but I had the vertical head on and I had trammed it and did not want to move it to install the Horizontal Arbor. But all mu tooling is for the 1” Burke Horizontal arbor.  I decided I would make a saw arbor. I first looked at McMasters. They wanted $35. I use McMasters because its here the next day. Also the shaft on the McMasters one was ½” diameter. The slotted nuts are also ½” diameter. I have only one set of 3C collets.
I do have a nice 9/16 3C collet. It’s a stub collet the 9/16 par is only 1-1/4” deep but it fine for many jobs. ( www.tools4cheap.net). I also had a piece of 1-1/4” 12L14 hex stock .
I cut the stock about 2-1/2” long. Using a 3-jaw I turned a 9/16 stub 1” long



I then dismounted the chuck, changed to collets and holding the stub in a 9/16 collet I turned a 1.000” stub ½” long.




Note that I broke the sharp edges on the hex next to the 9/16 stub but not on the saw blade side.  This is a nice tight fir on the saw blade. Also note the tool shown. I relieved the radius on the vertical face by putting a grove about 0.015" deep into the face just even with the 1.000 stub. This insures that the blade sits flat on the face. 





I drilled and tapped 1 1/4-20 hole 1” deep in the face of the 1” step. That finished that part.

I then cut a piece 7/8 long, faced both sides in the chuck and reduced the overall size to ¾” I drilled a ¼” hole through and using that as a pilot hole I bored a ½” deep step 1.001”



This formed the cover



Here is the completed arbor




And here it is doing its job.


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## Benji (Jun 24, 2012)

Yes a purpose built toll is often better than an  off-the-shelf one.


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## xalky (Jun 24, 2012)

Nice job. I love these threads. They give me al kinds of great ideas.


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