# Rockwell 25-OX6



## oneIwilly (Dec 14, 2013)

I recently traded a jeep hardtop for this Rockwell 25-OX6 lathe. I am a machinist student and this seemed like a good deal. It has a 4 jaw chuck. Besides being dirty, this lathe works amazing . However I would like a 3 jaw chuck. Normally I would ask my instructor this question, but we are on break. This lathe has a taper spindle, the back of the chuck says Buck L102, is this the size adapter I need to put a 3 jaw chuck on this lathe?http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u442/oneIwilly/null_zps51df169f.jpg


----------



## astjp2 (Dec 14, 2013)

Spend a  little time with google searches and you will find out everything you need to know.  Also sign up for the Yahoo group.  You need an L00 chuck.  It looks like a nice unit, get it level and keep it lubricated.    Tim


----------



## oneIwilly (Dec 14, 2013)

Is there an adapter that I need to connect the L00 chuck to the lathe spindle?


----------



## astjp2 (Dec 14, 2013)

No, you just need a spanner wrench to unscrew the nut that holds the chuck on the spindle.  The taper has a key and its one of the best methods of holding a chuck if you want to turn it backwards because it wont back off.  Tim


----------



## xalky (Dec 14, 2013)

Nice lathe: If you copy and paste the IMG code the picture will show up directly here.


 If you copy and paste the IMG code the picture will show up directly here.


----------



## valleyboy101 (Dec 14, 2013)

Very nice! It looks to be little used and well cared for.  I'd be pretty thrilled.
Michael


----------



## richl (Dec 14, 2013)

http://www.lathes.co.uk/delta metal/index.html
Willgive you some info on your lathe. Unlike the larger 11" model, the 10" model only comes in a 1 1/2"x8 tpi thread not the l00. Make sure you are getting the correct adapter for your chuck. Good luck with the new lathe, that sure does look real nice!

Rich


----------



## thenrie (Dec 15, 2013)

Can't see from the pics, but most of  the DR11s I have seen came with the L00 long taper spindle nose. They also offered it with a threaded nose, but most seem to have the L00. Any chuck, faceplate, or other attachment with the L00 spindle mount should fit. Just make sure you get the right size, since L00 is the smallest of that type of mount (L00, L0, L1, etc).

The lathe looks to be in decent shape. It's certainly in better shape than what I started with.


----------



## mattthemuppet2 (Dec 16, 2013)

nice score!

Not to be contentious, but why bother getting a 3 jaw? With a dial indicator and a bit of practice, you can get worked centred in a 4 jaw in very little time. You'd be better off putting the money you'd spend on a 3 jaw towards other tooling, such as a QCTP, cutters, live center etc. and getting a 3 jaw later if you still need one.


----------



## oneIwilly (Dec 18, 2013)

Actually Matt, in my limited experience I don't even care for 3 jaw chucks. I have a few machinist buddy's who grumbled about it not having a 3 jaw chuck. That's really the only reason I was looking for one. At this point, I think I'm going to do exactly what you suggested. Buy tooling. Here's a pic of the taper with the key in it. Also thanks for the suggestion on the image code thing. So far I absolutely love this machine!


----------



## mattthemuppet2 (Dec 18, 2013)

that's going to be a hell of a machine when you get it all tooled up! I'd love a good 3 jaw (mine is ancient and has terrible run out) but at the moment there are plenty of other things to be spending money on, so I'll make do with the new 4 jaw that I bought. It's good practice too for when I need to machine odd shaped stuff 

Don't forget to keep posting pictures - machinery voyeurism is where it's at!


----------



## oneIwilly (Dec 18, 2013)

More pics? Here ya goes. I found a lubrication chart. I started going through it and pulled this cover off. There is a lot of built up grease and the gears are dragging through it. Should I clean it out, or leave it?
	

		
			
		

		
	




- - - Updated - - -

Here are the other gears. So in this and the last pic, does anybody see any maintenance that needs to be performed? Also what are the first 3 accessories you guys would buy for this machine?


----------



## xalky (Dec 18, 2013)

This lathe seems to be in really good shape. If your so inclined, I'd clean all the gears and put some fresh grease on them. They really don't look too cruddy from the photos though.

A quick change tool post  and some cutting tools to go with it would be my first order of business. If thats a 10" lathe, AXA size would be the right size. Why does it look bigger than a 10" to me? Maybe it's just the photos.


----------



## oneIwilly (Dec 18, 2013)

I guess before I asked that, I should have showed what came with the machine. This is what I have along with a small shoebox full of hss. So what is best to clean it with? Also what exactly is the backing plate used for?


----------



## mattthemuppet2 (Dec 18, 2013)

you know, a QCTP would be awesome, as would some indexable cutters, but as you already have the holders and a bunch of HSS bits you could easily make do with those for a while. Nothing wrong with them and changing them out might take more time/ fiddle than a QCTP, but if you're not in a production environment it's not a big deal. 

First thing I'd get is a digital readout system in place. Makes life a lot easier and you can get a triple set up (X, Y and tail stock) for $100-150 from DavidH on here or plum a few benjamins more for a system with a single readout. I'm not an expert on that though, so ask around. Adding a digital read out to my lathe (orders of magnitude smaller than yours) has made it a much easier to use tool.

Do you have a bench grinder/ diamond hone/ arkansas stones already? If not, those will be super useful for grinding or touching up your own HSS bits.

A cut off tool is very useful, you could grind one of those yourself if you have a big enough spare bit/ blank.

A live center would be nice, as would a steady rest if you're going to do stuff longer than 10in or so.

Most important of all, a bunch of different types of material (scrap yard? Machine shop castoffs?) to practice on! That's the best way to learn


----------



## xalky (Dec 18, 2013)

I like to use wd40. I buy it by the 1gal can at home depot for about $20. I like it because it doesn't smell too bad. But really, you could use kerosene, which is cheaper. Get some parts washing brushes, a tub and a spray bottle. I have a small cheapy parts washer from HF but thats not necessary.

Get yourself one of these AXA tool post holder sets.  http://www.ebay.com/bhp/axa-tool-post . I have a piston type on my small 9" lathe and a wedge type on the 12", I think the wedge type is better but I really haven't had any problems with the piston type. It sounds like you have plenty of cutters. Your gonna need a few center drills and some standard size drill bits (0-1/2") and maybe a number and a letter set to go with that, if you don't already have those items. A live center would be nice but not necessary since you already have a dead center. Things will creep up as you get more involved in using your lathe, but i think those things will get you started. I'm constantly making and acquiring tooling for my machines. The more tooling you have, the quicker and easier it is to get things done. This hobby can get expensive, so watch Craigs list and ebay for bargains. I've bought stuff for pennys on the dollar, compared to new.


----------



## valleyboy101 (Dec 18, 2013)

The backing plate (faceplate) is mounted on the spindle.  Then you insert the adapter in the spindle which reduces to MT #3 or whatever and a dead centre in the adapter.  Using a lathe dog you can then turn between centres without using a chuck or collet.
Michael


----------



## frank r (Dec 18, 2013)

That is not a backing plate, it is a face plate with slots for a drive dog. Old school but occasionally necessary.

Previous advice is good. You have enough to make chips. I don't have a DRO so I don't miss it. If I had one I would probably move it up the scale of needed accessories.

Get the grease off by any means, it will be messy. Scoop it out, wipe it off, whatever. If you don't see a lot of metal shavings in the grease then you don't have to flush it out. Just get most of it off and add some new grease.


----------



## thenrie (Dec 19, 2013)

@ xalky: It's an 11" lathe. Quite a bit heftier than a 10.


----------



## xalky (Dec 19, 2013)

thenrie said:


> @ xalky: It's an 11" lathe. Quite a bit heftier than a 10.


 Ah, I thought it might be. ) That's gonna be a great lathe for you, and should last you into your retirement days and then some.


----------



## thenrie (Dec 22, 2013)

OneIWilly,

Being in a similar position to yourself, just starting out with metal cutting, only a month or so ahead of you, my recommendation for your first purchases would be measuring equipment. You are not going to be able to do much of anything on your lathe, other than cleaning, without some basic precision measuring tools. You are going to need a couple types of dial indicators, a magnetic base, some calipers and/or micrometers, a small steel precision rule, and a few other small things, just to get the lathe set up and do anything useful. I bought Shars stuff to start off with, but eventually I will step up to better stuff. The Shars, or probably any of the cheap Chinese stuff offered on eBay is sufficiently accurate for what I'm doing, although I can't vouch for the durability or the accuracy over the long term. If you can afford it, I'd suggest getting good stuff to begin with, but you're talking about a difference of orders of magnitude in price.

After the measuring gear, I'd invest in a 3-jaw chuck. I think you said you have a 4-jaw. You can do anything with a 4-jaw that you can with a 3-jaw, plus you can dial it in with a dial indicator to have absolutely no runout (provided it's in good shape to begin with), which you cannot do with a 3-jaw, however, a 3-jaw is so much faster to set up, that if you are doing an operation in which you can tolerate runout of maybe .001, then the 3-jaw is the way to go. I have both and find myself using the 3-jaw a lot more than the 4-jaw.

You are also going to need some centers. I find a good dead center quite useful. Dead centers are more accurate and cheaper, but live centers are great. Since you have the headstock adapter (which is very difficult to find, by the way) you should get at least one center in MT2 for the headstock, to use with your drive plate and dogs. The rest should be MT3 for your tailstock. I would also recommend a good keyless Jacobs chuck with a MT2, so you can use it in the headstock or tailstock (with an MT3/MT2 sleeve adapter). 

You'll need a set of center drills, and some bits of appropriate size for your tool post. If you can afford a quick-change tool post of some variety, I'd recommend getting one. I am using a lantern tool post right now, like the one on your lathe, and while it works fine, I find it very tedious resetting the tool height and position for every operation. If you don't have one, you'll need to buy a grinder. It doesn't have to be an expensive one, but it will need to have a decent tool rest. You'll need this to grind your tool bits.

Collets are really nice for precision work. Your lathe will take 5C collets, which are readily available and not too expensive, but the collet adapter and closer are killers. You will be looking at $3-500 for a collet set, closer, and thread protector, so mark that as a Christmas present to self for another year.

There. I think that will suffice for now. As you get going you'll find other things to put on your wish list, but these things are what I found to be necessary for me to do the basic things I needed to do right away with my lathe.

I have a DR 11 like yours that I am rebuilding, although it is the older model, and have been using a South Bend 9A to make replacement parts for it...and enjoying every minute of it.


----------



## oneIwilly (Dec 24, 2013)

I actually have a lot of the tools you mentioned. I also ordered a bxa qctp today. I have been dealing with the lantern type post, it's a pain, but useable. I figured, I'd post some pictures of some stuff I made recently. What do you guys think? That thing in back is a tool I made to go in the tail stock, to put a threading die in. Pretty cool!


----------



## SEK_22Hornet (Dec 24, 2013)

xalky said:


> Get yourself one of these AXA tool post holder sets.  http://www.ebay.com/bhp/axa-tool-post . I have a piston type on my small 9" lathe and a wedge type on the 12", I think the wedge type is better but I really haven't had any problems with the piston type. It sounds like you have plenty of cutters. Your gonna need a few center drills and some standard size drill bits (0-1/2") and maybe a number and a letter set to go with that, if you don't already have those items. A live center would be nice but not necessary since you already have a dead center. Things will creep up as you get more involved in using your lathe, but i think those things will get you started. I'm constantly making and acquiring tooling for my machines. The more tooling you have, the quicker and easier it is to get things done. This hobby can get expensive, so watch Craigs list and ebay for bargains. I've bought stuff for pennys on the dollar, compared to new.



Also check out Tools4Cheap.net ( http://www.tools4cheap.net/products.php?cat=9 ) He has a wedge style AXA set for $125 - and Shars (discount_machine on ebay) Also CDCO tools.


----------



## thenrie (Dec 24, 2013)

Looks like that lathe cuts metal a lot better than a Jeep top!) I'd say it was a good trade!


----------



## mattthemuppet2 (Dec 24, 2013)

looks like you're quite a lot further along in the machining front than a lot of us! The tail stock die holder is a great idea, I wouldn't mind making one of those at some point.

If you end up dumping the old style holders, you can recoup quite a bit of the cost of your QCTP by selling them on eBay. I sold a couple of sets that were thrown out by a work machining shop for $50 a set (L, R, Center, boring). That'll put you some way towards a set of indexable bits  

Merry Christmas!


----------



## oneIwilly (Dec 24, 2013)

My wife told me that if I made everybody a Christmas present, I could run the lathe 24-7. So I made a pile of hammers and stamped names into them with a stamp set. Just finished the last two!


----------



## thenrie (Dec 24, 2013)

I'm jealous. Wish I were using my DR. I'm still rebuilding.


----------



## oneIwilly (Dec 25, 2013)

I have read about the one you are rebuilding. I feel really fortunate to have found this machine. If yours works like this one, you are going to love it. Just got the lathe cleaned up. Emptied a bucket of chips.


----------



## oneIwilly (Dec 30, 2013)

Well I got my quick change tool post today. I am happy with it. I need to go down and have this piece milled down to .275 so it will fit in the compound. I'm excited!


----------



## astjp2 (Dec 31, 2013)

Machine it so its like a T nut, you want all the threads to be as tall as possible in the nut.  This will give you the most holding strength without straining or warping your compound.  Tim


----------



## oneIwilly (Dec 31, 2013)

So since I don't know anybody who will machine this thing into the t shape you describe. Here's the plan. The plate needs to be .275 thick to fit the slot in the compound. It is currently .477 thick. If I deck the entire thing down .200 then like you say Tim, I don't have much for thread contact area. So what I'm going to do is chuck this thing up and face off .202, but not all the way to the center, only until it can slide in the slot. This way it will be strong and have full thread contact. The only thing I'm worried about is the intermittent contact with my cutter from the facing of a square object. Any advise on speed ?or just run standard facing formula for speed?


----------



## xalky (Dec 31, 2013)

Just like your facing a piece of round stock. And make sure your setup is as rigid as possible. Locked carriage, minimal tool overhang.


----------



## oneIwilly (Dec 31, 2013)

Here's how I did it. I used a travel indicator, and peeled off a little at a time until I had my .202
	

		
			
		

		
	




- - - Updated - - -

It turned out fine.
	

		
			
		

		
	




- - - Updated - - -

Now I need some new projects.


----------



## astjp2 (Jan 1, 2014)

That works.  Now you just need to get some tooling and holders, the more you have the more you will need.  Tim

Actually, why not build yourself a rotary broach with a MT3 taper to fit in your tailstock?  There are several posts on the web on building one.  Tim


----------



## oneIwilly (Jan 1, 2014)

The post came with 2 tool holders, knurling tool, parting tool, and boring bar holder. I'll look into building that tail stock tool. If I can do it with just a lathe and a welder , consider it built. I have a ton of high speed steel. I really like the stuff and I'm pretty decent at making cutters out of it.I also have some with a piece of carbide glued on the end.I plan on getting some indexable carbide cutters soon.
	

		
			
		

		
	




- - - Updated - - -

This is the handle to my next hammer. No more nipple on the end,because I was able to actually center my cutter. Also look in the grooves, nice and clear. Before with the other setup, my tool setup wasn't strong. When pushing a parting tool in, I would get lots of chatter. This makes a bad finish, but not anymore! I'm happy with the QCTP.


----------



## astjp2 (Jan 1, 2014)

Look at the carbide depot website, it is a good reference to the different inserts.  I have several but I am trying to keep most of my inserts one size and only a couple of styles, that way I only need to get a few inserts for several tools.  Tim

oh yeah, the rotary broach may need a mill or a way to cut a 1* angle.


----------



## awander (Jan 1, 2014)

Interesting knurling you are doing on those hammer handles.

I am not sure if it is washed out because you are using the tool at that crazy angle to the work, or if you are using only one knurl wheel, or if it is just a trick of the light in the photos.

Nice lathe!


----------



## oneIwilly (Jan 1, 2014)

Hey thanks! That knurl job was a little funkey. I got a new knurler with the tool post. I have also been experimenting on the angle of the knurler. I think I like the old knurler better.


----------



## oneIwilly (Jan 6, 2014)

Well tomorrow back to school. This quarter I will be learning how to use manual milling with dro and I believe the machines have power feed. So now I'm looking to buy a mill. I found a grizzled pedestal mounted mill for 1300$ it's new, any thoughts? I mostly want to mill gun receivers.


----------



## astjp2 (Jan 6, 2014)

These are not the strongest mills, but they are small enough to fit in almost any shop.  I would add a DRO if it does not have one and use it for small projects.  I have a 6x26 (of similar breed) mill that was given to me, eventually I will get it scraped and put back together with a one shot lube system.  Tim


----------



## richl (Jan 6, 2014)

I would look into purchasing a knee mill. Lots of used bridge ports and clones out there. A knee machine is a wonderful thing, its easy to get spoiled. After you spend some time usi g one at your school you will feel the same.

Hth
Rich


----------



## oneIwilly (Jan 14, 2014)

The other day I was making some leveling feet for my buddy's chassis table. I engaged the half nut at one point on the number 1 instead of number 2 and cross threaded, destroying my part. So today I made this thing to practice threading and learn my machine. I figured out that if I engage at 2 and 4 I get my 3/4 10 thread perfect, so what are 1 and 3 threading and why are those numbers there? Anyway I layed down these threads today, not bad huh?
	

		
			
		

		
	




- - - Updated - - -

Here's another pic of it.


----------



## mattthemuppet2 (Jan 14, 2014)

the numbers have something (vaguely, waving hands around) to do with the tpi of your intended part and the leadscrew on your machine. So if you want a 4tpi thread and your leadscrew is 4tpi, you engage/ disengage with 1 full revolution. Can't remember the rest though 

In my defense, my lathe doesn't have a leadscrew, so this is just what I've gleaned off here. Hopefully someone who knows what they're talking about will chime in!


----------



## oneIwilly (Jan 14, 2014)

I don't think that is correct. Tpi is set in the gear box. I believe the 1234 is the location on the end of the work piece where the thread begins. But honestly I'm not 100% on that either. Here's a pic of our shop at school 12 lathes and 10 knee mills.


----------



## mattthemuppet2 (Jan 15, 2014)

I'm just speaking from some half remembered knowledge of a post I read somewhere, not exactly gospel 

A quick google brought up this:
http://www.schsm.org/html/using_the_threading_dial.html

which is a bit more informative!


----------



## oneIwilly (Jan 16, 2014)

Been working on this cromo fly cutter for a while. I need to do a little more work on the fixture, then finish the fly cutter.


----------



## oneIwilly (Feb 1, 2014)

One of the mills at school had a bad noise in it. I took it apart. There are three pins that had brass shoes on the end that move the gear up and down to change speeds. The brass ends were gone and the springs and pins were in the bottom of the case. I figured out the dimensions the parts needed to be and I made them this morning on my lathe. My teacher is going to love me!


----------



## oneIwilly (Feb 24, 2014)

Made this today. Spring loaded tapping center.


----------



## astjp2 (Feb 25, 2014)

Looks like a great project.  Tim


----------



## MDSpencer (Mar 2, 2014)

I have a 10x36" Rockwell 4c collets, three jaw, Four jaw, six jaw and steadyrest and a taper attachment. I have a DRO on it as well.

- - - Updated - - -

These are great machines.. Some parts can be still had.

- - - Updated - - -

I might have a copy of the 11" manual.


----------



## oneIwilly (Sep 28, 2014)

I took a little vacation, and for some reason I can't open those files. I would love to look at the manual. Also I was wondering if anyone can help me put a manufacture year to my machine? Where would I find it. I have scoured the lathe looking. Thanks. http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums...1-A14D-49F6-B336-CC28287F38E1_zpsmggjcuar.jpg


----------



## wa5cab (Sep 28, 2014)

Willy,

The instructions for use of the threading dial given at the link Matt posted would seem to apply to your Rockwell, as you mentioned that your threading dial is numbered 1, 2, 3 & 4.  However, the instructions were in error in one statement.  There must have always been two schools of thought on how best to mark the threading dial to achieve the minimum number of cross-thread errors like you had.  Some lathes (including Rockwell) apparently) have 4 numbered marks on the dial, 1 through 4.  Some have four marks but only the 1st and 3rd are numbered 1 and 2.  The rules for these dials are:

For even numbered threads, use any mark to start and any mark for subsequent passes.  For odd numbered threads, use any numbered mark to start and any numbered mark to continue.  For half threads, use the same mark for subsequent passes as you started with (some instructions just say use #1, period).

So with your 10 tpi, you should also be able to engage at 1 and 3.  To prove it to yourself, after cutting the thread using 2 or 4 stop the motor, back the cutter out, and move the carriage until 1 or 3 lines up with the witness mark.  Advance the cutter and you should find that it is in the thread.



oneIwilly said:


> The other day I was making some leveling feet for my buddy's chassis table. I engaged the half nut at one point on the number 1 instead of number 2 and cross threaded, destroying my part. So today I made this thing to practice threading and learn my machine. I figured out that if I engage at 2 and 4 I get my 3/4 10 thread perfect, so what are 1 and 3 threading and why are those numbers there?


----------



## oneIwilly (Sep 28, 2014)

Thanks, yea I got the threads figured out. But I'm looking at up grading machines. It means I need to sell this one, and i need to know the year? Anybody?


----------



## wa5cab (Sep 28, 2014)

Unfortunately, Rockwell is another brand that does not appear in the Serial Number Reference Handbook.  I bought a copy of it year before last, and the last two dozen times that someone asked the Age question, the machine brand in question was not included.  If someone still sells Rockwell parts, you might try calling and asking them.  Atlas put dates on their spindle bearings but no one has mentioned anything similar on the Rockwell machines.


----------



## astjp2 (Sep 29, 2014)

Vintage Machinery.org has a serial number list by year.  Just google it.  I found out mine was made in 1957.  Tim


----------

