# Just Bought A Craftsman 12" Lathe - Looking For Some Information



## ZZYL-Vulcan (Nov 7, 2015)

Hello, I bought a Craftsman 12" (101.07403) lathe last Sunday. It came with minimal tooling, but some goodies that made up for that. (Taper attachment, steady rest, milling attachment). I will have questions about inspecting it for wear later, but aside from that, it appears in decent shape. I believe it is an early 50's model, and has the standard change gears. I intend to start tearing it down to rebuild it and repaint it this weekend. I would like to get a manual, and from the research I have done the Manual of Lathe Operations and Machinists Tables by Atlas Lathe Co. sounds like the best reference for my lathe. There is one available on e-bay, and apparently I can order a reprint as part of a data pack from lathes.co.uk.

Has anyone ordered the data pack from lathes.co.uk, and if so is it worth paying extra for?

Additionally I can apparently order a manual from Clausing as well, can anyone confirm this?

Aside from the manual, I would like to order some tooling, and honestly I want to stay away from e-bay. As far as I can tell I need Morse Taper # 2 attachments for the tailstock? Is that correct, and any advice on where to purchase?

Which collets should I use?

Finally, at least for this post, I would like to determine if anyone sells a quick change tool post that will slap right on in place of the standard tool post. Any ideas, and wee to go for cutting tools?

I know its a lot, thanks in advance for the help! And don't worry ill cruise through some old threads. Ive done some homework, but might was well cut to the chase and let you know the info I need.

Cheers,

Vulcan


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## wa5cab (Nov 7, 2015)

Actually, the name of the company was Atlas Press Co.  And your model was built from 1940 through 1957.  If you will report the Serial Number and bed length, I can tell you approximately when it was built.  If you have occasion to pull the spindle and bearings, be sure that you record the dates on the bearings and report them here along with Serial Number.

But yes, one of the books that you should have is the Manual of Lathe Operations, or MOLO.  However, Atlas printed 33 editions in 9 different versions, two of which are closest to applying to the 101.07403 and a third is OK.  15 or 16 of the editions and 6 of the versions all say Copyright 1937.  The best one for you is what I defined as 1937V5.  However, no one who hasn't read the paper that I wrote on the subject will have any idea what that means.  For a brief history of the Molo, and a lathe model number to MOLO version number selection chart, you will find both documents in Downloads.  However, you won't have access to Downloads until you get above 30 posts, a common problem for people who show up here with questions like yours.  So go to the middle of the Sticky section at the top of this Forum and open the thread titled "History of the Atlas Molo...".  You can download the latest versions of both from there.

The other thing that you need in the way of documentation is the parts list for your model.  That is also in Downloads, but if you will PM me your email address, I will send it to you.

The best place to find the MOLO version that you need is on eBay.  However, 99% of the sellers are clueless as to version.  They all think that anything with Copyright 1937 is a First Edition, not knowing that it only means that the thing was printed sometime between 1937 and 1954.  So armed with the description of what you need, you will have to write the seller and ask for more information.

Clausing does still sell the MOLO.  However, it is the 33rd Edition printed in 1988 and is Version 9.  The tables and some of the text will work with your machine but all of the photographs are decades newer.  But Clausing is a possible source of new parts.  Just be prepared to pay current machine tool parts prices for them, not those in some 1940's vintage Craftsman catalog.

My recommendation on collets is to wait until you get the lathe back up and running and gain a little familiarity with it.  In the meantime, I'm going to post a collet primer in the Sticky area when I get time.  I've written one three or four times in individual posts and it finally occurred to me to save one of the posts and turn it into a file.  Duh.

For the tailstock, yes, it is #2 Morse Taper.  All that you usually need for it will be a dead center, a live center, and a 0 to 1/2" drill chuck.  Later you may find a need for a few other things but those you will definitely need from the git go.

I bought reprints of several Atlas catalogs that I didn't have from Lathes.co.uk and the quality is quite good (I'm in the TM business in a field totally unrelated to machine tools and know what "good" is and isn't).  I haven't bought anything else from him.  Of the ebay sellers selling things on CD or DVD, my experience is that they are usually poor quality.  Ozark Woodworker on eBay sells reprints of a number of Atlas and other related items, and their quality is good.  But generally, I would stick with an original of the MOLO.

A number of companies sell QCTP's that will fit the Atlas.  On most of them, you will have to machine the T-nut to fit.  The size that you want is usually called AXA.  Some will tell you that a BXA is better but in my opinion after about 35 years, they are too large, and the AXA will work just fine.  Beyond that, most that you find are going to be Chinese made.  So don't buy the cheapest one and don't buy one with an aluminum tool post.  Do make sure that the tool holders are standard.  There are a couple of good brands but their holders aren't standard AXA.  And buy some extra (at least 3 or 4, I have 9 I think) of the #101 or #102 tool holders.


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## ZZYL-Vulcan (Nov 7, 2015)

Hey thanks a ton Robert. I just downloaded a 1937 MOLO, I am unsure of the version number. As far as tooling goes I did get a live and dead center as part of the deal, but I do still need a chuck for the tailstock. Concerning bed length, I am unclear the convention that determines what size my lathe is. The ways are I believe 54" long from end to end, including the portion the headstock sits on. I am assuming this means I have a 12x48 but might be wrong...

Oh my serial # is 33749, and also PM sent!


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## wa5cab (Nov 7, 2015)

Vulcan,

OK.  Rough estimate is that your machine was made in January, 1951.  However, I have to add, +/- a year.  Because Clausing claims to have no Atlas production records, and because Atlas, Clausing and Atlas-Clausing or Clausing-Atlas were never included in the commercial machine tool serial number versus year book that used to be published, the only three ways that we have to date a machine are original invoice, Grandpa said, and the dates that are engraved on all of the Timken spindle bearings.  I only know of a couple of examples of the first, 4 or 5 of the second but half are pretty obviously wrong, and the third only gives us the earliest possible date that the machine could have been made.  The dates appear to be Atlas receipt inspection dates on the bearings.  Atlas obviously didn't practice FIFO (First In First Out) with the bearings.  The record so far for differences between the dates on the two bearings in a single machine is nearly a year.  A couple are the same.  Most are under three months.  Not having any monthly or yearly production records, we can only assume a constant rate between the nearest two serial numbers that we have bearing dates on.  Plus of all of the 101.07403, 27430 and 27440 that we have serial numbers of, we only have bearing dates from 9.


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## ZZYL-Vulcan (Nov 7, 2015)

Ok awesome thanks. Also I unzipped that file and printed it all off. That's a huge help and I really appreciate it. I ordered a chuck last night, as well as the cross-feed handle and a chuck key (I didn't even get one of those with the lathe!). Currently working on refurbishing the shop table I am using for the lathe, should be solid when I am done, then on to a thorough cleaning of the lathe... busy Saturday so far!


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## ZZYL-Vulcan (Nov 7, 2015)

Oh and I also printed that MOLO and cut the pages, I am going to sort and bind it tonight. Total cost was let's see... $8.99 for the download, 1$17.00 for the print job. $26.00 total. Not bad for a manual, though Id rather have an original for that price. Bottom line though, is that I didn't have to wait for one in the mail, and the finished product will be a serviceable shop manual, 4 1/4" X 5 1/2".


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## wa5cab (Nov 7, 2015)

The original MOLO is about 5-1/2 x 8-1/2.  The width includes the tabs which aren't easy to do and probably weren't included in the download anyway.  So I assume that you meant 4-1/4 x 8-1/2.  Reduced to 5-1/2" high pages and I wouldn't be able to read it .

I'll spare everyone my time-is-money sermon and go to bed.


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## Round in circles (Nov 8, 2015)

Vulcan , 
You might need to grind , file and scrape the cross slide  with an extended flat surface that runs true with the original tool post mounting surface  so you can rotate the QCTP round ( after loosening the head nut)  to the alternative / next tool position without having to dismantle things . Also use the exercise to check that the original tool post mounting  face is true & flat right acros the whole " tee " slot ( Not partly pulled up out of true due to Gorilla Joe's handiwork ) .

It is the part shown by me pointing the red pencil at it ..  it took me about 15 minutes to use the 4 inch angle grinder and a second cut hand safe edge hand file to get it roughly there , then another 10 or so minutes to use engineers blue & a ground down hacksaw blade as a scraper to ensure it was perfectly flat and matching to the underside of the QCTP in all places .

 As the cross slide is soft nodular cast iron , take it very very steady so as not to accidentally take off too much . It's best to keep gently kissing it with which ever cutting device you're using and checking the fits with everything clamped down .


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## Mondo (Nov 8, 2015)

ZZYL-Vulcan:
Welcome to the forum!  



ZZYL-Vulcan said:


> I bought a Craftsman 12" (101.07403) lathe last Sunday.





ZZYL-Vulcan said:


> The ways are I believe 54" long from end to end, including the portion the headstock sits on. I am assuming this means I have a 12x48 but might be wrong...



101.07403 with 54" bed is a 12x36 lathe.   12" swing (max diameter of part that can be turned) and 36 inches between centers with tailstock at far right end of the ways.

The tool post is cast with a 1" rise so you will not need to grind or file a flat as suggested by David (Round in Circles).  That would apply only for the tool post on a 10" lathe.  A parts list for your lathe is available in the Downloads section:  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/craftsman-lathe-12-101-07403_27430_27440-12x18-36-pdf.1507/

Don't fear buying from sellers on E-Bay, I have been purchasing parts, accessories, tooling and materials there for several years.  In many cases that is the only place to find what I was looking for.  I have sold a number of parts there too. 

Don't hesitate to ask for help here, there is more than a century of combined experience and knowledge available.

Post some photos of your new-to-you lathe!  We like to see restoration progress!

Spiral_Chips


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## Rob (Nov 8, 2015)

Spiral_Chips said:


> ZZYL-Vulcan:
> Welcome to the forum!
> 
> 
> ...



Yes Welcome.

I have also purchased several parts from EBay.  Make sure you check out the pictures good before purchase.  Also on some of the items it is cheaper to purchase new from Atlas(Clausing) than used items from EBay.  Half nuts are one example.  New from Atlas in the low $30's, new on EBay $60's.  

Also you can look here http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-part/10107403/0247/0728000/00020225/00001.html but Atlas is considerably cheaper than Sears.


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## wa5cab (Nov 8, 2015)

Further on the Atlas size standards, on the 9", 10" and both early and late 12", the headstock takes up about 12" of the bed, and the tailstock about 6".  So if you know the bed length (always part of the Model Number on 10" and Compound Drive 9"), subtract 18" and you have the nominal Center to Center distance.  Note also that this dimension (not just with Atlas) is without any chuck on the spindle.


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## ZZYL-Vulcan (Nov 9, 2015)

Hey I wanted to thank you guys for the feedback and help. Pics are coming soon, I 've been working on refurbishing a workbench all weekend, and should be done with it tomorrow or the next day. Pics of the lathe to follow...

So it is a 12x36 after all. It was advertised as a 12x38, (which I knew wasn't right) but I realized that I had no idea whether the 36" referred to the distance between centers or total bed length.

as far as e-bay, I have already purchased some tools from there, I just don't want to find myself paying more for used tooling than I would for new from a dealer. For example, I just paid $54.00 for  the crossfeed handle ("buy it now" price). I could buy a complete  crossfeed on there for not too much more all things considered. I wonder if Clausing stocks this part.... anyways whatever. I need it and it was available. $54.00 seems steep...

Also that bit from Round in Circles :


Round in circles said:


> Not partly pulled up out of true due to Gorilla Joe's handiwork


man that's hilarious. I've spent way too much of my life cleaning up after Gorilla Joe!

Lastly I ended up buying a bunch of clear plastic sheet protectors for my newly printed 5 1/2" x 8" MOLO, so I'm into the thing approximately $60.00+ dollars, and while I could have ordered one for that price, this process has afforded me the ability to read it at night, and the finished product (binded w/ sheet protectors) should be pretty durable in the shop.


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## my machine shop (Nov 12, 2015)

I carry a lot of parts. Clausing is expensive on some items and ok on others. You can got to www.mymachineshop.net and browse the Atlas lathe items or contact me through the website with other questions or needs.


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## ZZYL-Vulcan (Nov 16, 2015)

Hey thanks, I actually bought a chuck and crossfeed handle from you about 1-2 weeks ago. I will be looking for a piece for my tailstock - 9-165A (screw with nut). I don't suppose you have that do you?


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## Mondo (Nov 16, 2015)

That tailstock ram alignment screw, part # 9-165A (with nut) is a 1/4" dog point slotted set screw, 20tpi (coarse thread), 3/4" long..    My local Sears Appliance, Tools, and Hardware store has these on the shelf for about 50 cents.

Spiral_Chips


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## ZZYL-Vulcan (Nov 30, 2015)

Thanks I appreciate it a bunch. There is a Sears about 1 mile from my house...


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## ZZYL-Vulcan (Nov 30, 2015)

Update on progress, I have spent many, many hours disassembling, cleaning, sanding, and finally painting. Ways to go still, but the bed and feet are repainted. I used a copper hammer finish and it looks so damn awesome. I'm onto the carriage now... I wound up building a second bench for tools and layout, so this project keeps growing. Its starting to come together now... Also I have had a stream of parts and tooling arriving in the mail. Got some really nice micrometers and a new machinist level (Starrett). I need to figure out how to calibrate the mics and the level, any advice? Also I bent the rack a bit when I removed it, about 15 degrees-ish on the end by the tailstock. I am counting on bending it back when I screw it back down, just using the mechanical force of screwing it to bend it back into shape. Anyone see any problems with this?


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## wa5cab (Nov 30, 2015)

I would try to straighten it some first.


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## my machine shop (Nov 30, 2015)

I am sure I have it here.   Joel


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## ZZYL-Vulcan (Dec 7, 2015)

Bump for the calibration question. I bought some mics and a machinist level, how do I calibrate them? Thanks!


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## JimDawson (Dec 7, 2015)

If you got standards with the mics then measure the standard with the mic and you turn the barrel to set ''0'' with the little spanner wench that you should have also gotten with the mics.  If you don't have either the standards or wrenches, I don't know how to do it.  You have to compare against a known dimension.

To calibrate the level, set it on a reasonably level, flat surface.  Note the position of the bubble, then rotate the level 180 degrees.  If the bubble is in the same relative position in both orientations the you are good to go.  Without a known near perfect level calibration surface we have to get a bit creative.   It is possible to adjust the level while adjusting the level of the machine.  Work back and forth between the level and the machine.  Rotate, adjust, adjust the machine, rotate, adjust, rinse, repeat.  I adjusted my level while leveling my mill.  It took a while, but in the end both were right.


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## wa5cab (Dec 8, 2015)

Vulcan,

When new, most better quality micrometers came with a standard, usually of a length equal to the upper limit of the micrometer (a 0-1" would have come with a 1.0000" standard).  And they also came with a small spanner to fit the anvil (the fixed end of the mic).  So your first chore would be to find some standards.

With the level, there are no standards.  Put the level on something sturdy and stable, like (hopefully) your lathe bed.  Note the bubble reading.  Flip the level end for end (180 degrees) and again note the reading.  They should be the same.  If not, how you physically adjust the vials depends upon who made the level as there are several ways to do it, including you can't do it.


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## wa5cab (Dec 8, 2015)

Sorry, Jim.  We were both writing at the same time. 

EDIT:  Oops.  Nope.  Your post was on the next page.  But at least we agreed.


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## ZZYL-Vulcan (Dec 8, 2015)

Thank you fellas. No standards or spanners with the mics. (All used Brown and Sharpe mics, in excellent shape). I'd imagine I can buy a set of standards? Ebay? MSC? As far as the machinist level, its a Starrett 98-6, brand new. If I understand correctly, I am essentially just ensuring I get the same measurement no matter which way I spin the level. Is that right? I mean the lathe and table I built for it are not perfectly level, so I don't have a true surface to check the level against.


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## Mondo (Dec 9, 2015)

Google this phrase:
How to calibrate Starrett Level

At least a dozen resources will be found.  I did not find any user manuals for levels on starrett.com, but you could send them an email and ask.  I have done business with them directly and they are responsive.

To check the micrometers you will need to procure a "standard" or a set of standards.  See starrett.com, use-enco.com, mcmaster.com, mscdirect.com, travers.com or any other machinist tool supply house.  Even ebay.com!

Spiral_Chips


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## ZZYL-Vulcan (Dec 9, 2015)

Thanks!


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