# G0836  LMS5500 owners thread



## greenail (Aug 31, 2018)

wondering if starting a thread here or in the seig form makes more sense since the G0836 is the same as the seig x2.7 and very close to the sx2.7/LMS 5500

A few topics I want to cover

1.  my spindle lock design
2.  issues with X gib lock and fixes (i made a new knob)
3.  issues with vibration and the quill lock

I'll start with #3.  Oddly when I lock the quill i get crazy vibration when trying to cut more than 0.2mm steel.  Unlocking the quill makes the machine run great but the cutter can pull the quill down and I have to keep a close eye on the quill DRO.  Anyone else experience this?


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## markba633csi (Sep 1, 2018)

Something sounds wrong there- is there vibration with the spindle turning even before cutting? Or only when cutting? Check for runout in the spindle and also the drive pulleys and motor too.  Is your cutter/endmill sharp?
Also check the table gibs are not excessively loose
mark


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## greenail (Sep 2, 2018)

markba633csi said:


> Something sounds wrong there- is there vibration with the spindle turning even before cutting? Or only when cutting? Check for runout in the spindle and also the drive pulleys and motor too.  Is your cutter/endmill sharp?
> Also check the table gibs are not excessively loose
> mark



yup it is strange.  runout on spindle seems good.  pulleys seem ok.  endmill wouldn't cut good if it wasn't sharpt.  gibs are good.

should I make a video?


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## markba633csi (Sep 2, 2018)

So is the vibration only when cutting?  Mini mills are not able to cut large amounts of steel quickly and the machine will struggle a bit
Yes, a video with sound would certainly help- what speeds and feeds are you using? Lubricant/coolant?


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## greenail (Sep 3, 2018)

strong vibration when the quill lock is engage and I cut more than .2mm (steel).  Not cutting it sounds fine.  I also noticed quite a lot of grey grease on the right hand side of the quill.  I've stopped using the quil lock and was milling cast iron a few days ago with .5mm cuts and it sounded good and cut good.


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## greenail (Oct 20, 2018)

greenail said:


> strong vibration when the quill lock is engage and I cut more than .2mm (steel).  Not cutting it sounds fine.  I also noticed quite a lot of grey grease on the right hand side of the quill.  I've stopped using the quil lock and was milling cast iron a few days ago with .5mm cuts and it sounded good and cut good.




I've been having issues again and I think my problems are due to backlash in the fine feed mechanism.  Does anyone know the correct way to adjust the backlash?  There is an eccentric sleeve that seems to be the item to be adjusted.  Unfortunately I am missing one of the thrust bearing races, it was just butting up against the inside of the knob surface!


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## higgite (Oct 21, 2018)

I have an LMS 5500 and I have not experienced what you described. When you get the vibration with the quill locked, is the fine feed also engaged or not? Does having the fine feed engaged or not with the quill locked make any difference in the vibration?

As for adjusting fine feed backlash, I don’t know for sure what they're for, but mine has 2 small holes in the right side of the head near the front that line up with the fine feed shaft. There is a small set screw buried deep in each of those holes. I suspect they MIGHT be for fine feed backlash adjustment, but that is strictly a SWAG. Proceed with caution.

Tom


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## greenail (Oct 22, 2018)

i made a temporary washer out of aluminum and was able to adjust most of the backlash out.  I have not tried engaging the quill lock yet but plunging seemed to work much better after the adjustments.  I ended up drilling a few holes about 1/4" into the eccentric sleve which allowed me to rotate it while inserted and make the adjustment.  I don't see any other way to rotate it other than pliers.


 It seems the only thing holding the fine feed shaft worm engagement is the knob set screw!  If it is loose the shaft will move axially quite a lot and this translates into quill backlash.

The set screws on the side of the machine seat into groves in the eccentric sleeve.  I believe they were not seated properly before I took it apart.  I also noticed the inner thrust bearing was super caked with cosmoline and grease and needed a good cleaning and re-lube.


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## greenail (Oct 27, 2018)

This adjustment has made may machine much more rigid.  I'm very happy I did it.  I'll make a video once the replacement thrust washer arrives.


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## greenail (Nov 10, 2018)

Here is a video I made on how to adjust the backlash on the quill. I really feel like I'm missing something here and that there shouldn't be any way the design could be so dependent on a stet screw in the knob.


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## Mitch Alsup (Nov 11, 2018)

greenail said:


> Here is a video I made on how to adjust the backlash on the quill. I really feel like I'm missing something here and that there shouldn't be any way the design could be so dependent on a stet screw in the knob.



People like me get car sick watching videos with camera movements like that.


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## greenail (Nov 11, 2018)

Mitch Alsup said:


> People like me get car sick watching videos with camera movements like that.



Sorry, I didn't have a camera dolly handy   I do use a tripod but showing the back of the quill required taking it off.

You can jump to 2:36 and it will be back on the tripod


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## greenail (Dec 22, 2018)

after getting the top of my right hand slicked with grease from my X axis lead screw when I adjust the Y gib lock, I made a universal joint (double cardan) joint adapter which keeps my hand away from the bottom of the table.  I can post some pics or a video if anyone is interested.  This seems to work well so far and I may also do the same for the X gib lock

I also added some leather to cover the Y ways and i hope it does not get in the way to much.


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## greenail (Dec 27, 2018)

I made a video of it.  Hope this keeps some one else's hand clean when tightening the Y gib lock.


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## greenail (Dec 25, 2020)

I made a Christmas present for my mill.  Try to guess what it is before the big reveal!


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