# Servicing DotCo inline die grinders?



## EmilioG (Jan 6, 2015)

I have several old and new Dotco inline die grinders. (10L2000, 12L2000).
I just started taking them apart to clean (not the motor housing).
Dotco services die grinders at $85 plus parts.
Does anyone here do their own servicing?
I'd like to buy the parts I need and do it myself.

How do you take these things apart? What tools do I need?
The motor housing seems to be held with pins, how do you remove these?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks


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## davidh (Jan 6, 2015)

contact me off the forum.    i may have the parts you need.
there is no magic. . . .


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## EmilioG (Jan 8, 2015)

Does anyone here know how to take these die grinders apart for service and new parts?
I have Dotco models 10L2000, 10L25000 and 10L2001.  How do you remove the lever handle pins and
motor housing pins and replace them?  Thanks


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## davidh (Jan 8, 2015)

i thought you were going to send them. . .


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## chuckorlando (Jan 9, 2015)

All I could find so far 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DOTCO-Beari...720?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c4c249f10

There are all kinda parts and rebuild kits on ebay. Not sure if any will help you


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## cathead (Jan 9, 2015)

I have taken apart several of my die grinders and replaced the vanes with
some home made vanes fashioned from some mylar material or in one case
some old circuit board material.  You have to get the shape right and the thickness
right so they don't stick or bind.  The difficult part is figuring how to disassemble
the vane motor.  Usually they are pressed together and can be pressed apart if
you are careful.  I just replaced the vanes in a friend's pencil die grinder the other
day and it sings like new again.  They last a LONG time of you keep them well 
oiled as with any air tool.


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## EmilioG (Jan 11, 2015)

cathead said:


> I have taken apart several of my die grinders and replaced the vanes with
> some home made vanes fashioned from some mylar material or in one case
> some old circuit board material.  You have to get the shape right and the thickness
> right so they don't stick or bind.  The difficult part is figuring how to disassemble
> ...



Thats excellent, but How do you press them apart and press back?
I found all the parts super cheap but now how do I get those tiny pins out then back again?

Also here for parts>>  http://www.ereplacementparts.com/dotco-grinder-parts-c-132416_132417.html


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## cathead (Jan 11, 2015)

In my case, I used my Kurt 8 inch vise for a press.  You may have to make 
a fixture or two to get it apart.  Reassembly is a breeze, you just press it back
together.  It's hard to go into much more detail as they may have some of differences.  
Basically the bearing comes off the top making the cylinder and vanes accessable. 
On mine, there was only one pin and all it did was index the cylinder.  I hope 
this is of some help.  

UOTE=EmilioG;264683]Thats excellent, but How do you press them apart a
nd press back?
I found all the parts super cheap but now how do I get those tiny pins out then back again?

Also here for parts>>  http://www.ereplacementparts.com/dotco-grinder-parts-c-132416_132417.html[/QUOTE]


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## cathead (Jan 11, 2015)

Emilio,

The lever handle pin you tap out with a hammer and a small punch if it is 
a roll pin...



cathead said:


> In my case, I used my Kurt 8 inch vise for a press.  You may have to make
> a fixture or two to get it apart.  Reassembly is a breeze, you just press it back
> together.  It's hard to go into much more detail as they may have some of differences.
> Basically the bearing comes off the top making the cylinder and vanes accessable.
> ...


[/QUOTE]


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## cathead (Jan 11, 2015)

Emilio, 

I can't tell you anything about the motor housing pins because there
are no pins on my motor housing( It's not a Dotco)...


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## EmilioG (Jan 15, 2015)

I was able to get a lot of help from Apex (Dotco) and others on line.
The roll pins are tapped out with a 3/32" roll pin punch then tapped back in 
with replacement pins which cost .57c each.  I found all the parts I need
on ereplacementParts.com and on Ebay. Great deal on Ebay for re-build kits!

I'm saving lots of money and time doing this job myself.
Not to mention the experience.
DIY  

Thank you all


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## EmilioG (Jan 19, 2015)

I've disassembled all of the easier parts, now, how do I remove the four sections of the
motor housing unit.  There's the front end threaded collet check body, cylinder and two end plates.
How do I get these apart?  Someone suggested using a pin punch and holding the cylinder in a vise then
giving it a good whack with a mallet.  Should I use a brass punch?  Has anyone ever done this with a Dotco
die grinder?  I don't want to destroy a good Dotco.  I could really use some help on this. Thanks


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## cathead (Jan 20, 2015)

I was able to get a thin screwdriver or chisel tip between the back plate
bearing and the cylinder and it pried off easily once I could get it started. 
It wasn't on a Dotco but every grinder I have had apart was pretty much the
same design.  

If not a photo might be beneficial.


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## EmilioG (Jan 20, 2015)

These are 4 sections plus the rotor blades inside (not counting O rings).  I think I'll put a small pin punch in the
ID of the end plate hole and try to knock the parts out while holding the cylinder in a vise (with padding or soft jaws).
It's over 15 years old and it needs a rebuild.  I got all of the parts cheap.  Thank you all.


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## EmilioG (Jan 21, 2015)

I was able to do the re-build with no damage. I should do a YouTube video on how this is done.
I saved a lot of money doing this myself.  I purchased all of the parts on Ebay and eReplacements.com
Genuine Dotco parts. I'll post step by step photos of the procedure in another thread.

I don't recommend the use of screw drivers for prying. It will only chip and mar the metal.

Thanks for the replies.


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