# Anyone else get carried away with 3d printed tool storage?



## Ken226 (Oct 13, 2021)

I've run my 3d printer for weeks on end before, 24/7.

Some of these things took 15-20 hours each to print.

Anyone else go overboard with their 3d printer?


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## Nogoingback (Oct 13, 2021)

I don't have one, but my son does and he's learning how to program it as we speak.  I'm planning on
keeping him busy...  

Nice work.


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## Ken226 (Oct 13, 2021)

Nogoingback said:


> I don't have one, but my son does and he's learning how to program it as we speak.  I'm planning on
> keeping him busy...
> 
> Nice work.




I have .stl files of  all of those racks in the pic above uploaded to thingiverse.  They can be downloaded free and printed, modified, etc.


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## Winegrower (Oct 13, 2021)

This is exactly what terrifies me about getting a 3D printer.   Please stop.


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## Ulma Doctor (Oct 13, 2021)

i'm working on 3D printed pegboard accy's now


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## woodchucker (Oct 13, 2021)

My son made me some of the AXA holders.. at first I like them, but now... well, I don't like having to have so many on the right side.
I may go back to angle... I like my tips up so I don't drag or hit anything. I don't use many LH tools,
The R8 rack was nice, as well as the center /chuck.

I think the taps can be done like Mr. Pete. I saw his rack years ago, and I gotta tell ya, I love it.
it makes so much sense having your most frequently used taps, setup like that.

tap drill, spiral tap, bottom tap, clearance hole drill...
You might want to do one of them...
I made mine out of plastic from a corporate desk thing, I got in a box of raw material.

you could probably do a much better job with the index.


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## Ken226 (Oct 14, 2021)

woodchucker said:


> My son made me some of the AXA holders.. at first I like them, but now... well, I don't like having to have so many on the right side.
> I may go back to angle... I like my tips up so I don't drag or hit anything. I don't use many RH tools,
> The R8 rack was nice, as well as the center /chuck.
> 
> ...




I think I will do that.  A few months ago I was working on my VFD control panel when I noticed a smell of something burning.    I had bumped the cord to my soldering iron, and it melted it's way into my tap index.

Yup, I'm gonna go work on a replacement.

It looks like your set up with 4 holes per size?  My commonly used tap sizes consist of about 20 sizes.  An 80 hole index will be big, probably bigger than the table on my Flashforge Creator pro.

 I'll sketch on it a bit and see how small I can make an index with 4 holes per size and 20 sizes.


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## wachuko (Oct 14, 2021)

I have the 80/20… and was looking at what David had done…. This is easier.  Will download the files and start printing.  Thank you!


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## MrCrankyface (Oct 14, 2021)

I'm definitely guilty of this..


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## woodchucker (Oct 14, 2021)

Ken226 said:


> I think I will do that.  A few months ago I was working on my VFD control panel when I noticed a smell of something burning.    I had bumped the cord to my soldering iron, and it melted it's way into my tap index.
> 
> Yup, I'm gonna go work on a replacement.
> 
> ...


I think you missed the point of what I was doing.
it's for taps, and their accompanying drills.. not a drill index.


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## RandyWilson (Oct 14, 2021)

Guilty. DIN rail mount holders for MT2, MT3, BXA, ER32,  And who knows what all else. My current project is a coolant pump well for the Cinci.


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## Just for fun (Oct 14, 2021)

@Ken226 , Looks good man!   I don't have a 3d printer yet, but I can sure see where one would be handy.


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## wachuko (Oct 14, 2021)

So are you all sharing the .STL files on these?  So many that I want to print.  Let me look at what is already available in https://www.thingiverse.com/


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## Ken226 (Oct 14, 2021)

woodchucker said:


> I think you missed the point of what I was doing.
> it's for taps, and their accompanying drills.. not a drill index.



I'm not sure if I missed the point, or not. 
I'm drawing up a TAP index.   Not a drill index.
A tool organizer that holds taps, arranged by size, perhaps including a hole for the appropriate sized tap drill.





wachuko said:


> So are you all sharing the .STL files on these?  So many that I want to print.  Let me look at what is already available in https://www.thingiverse.com/



Yes, they are on thingiverse.  Search my username.


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## wachuko (Oct 14, 2021)

Ken226 said:


> Yes, they are on thingiverse.  Search my username.











						Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects
					

Download files and build them with your 3D printer, laser cutter, or CNC. Thingiverse is a universe of things.




					www.thingiverse.com
				




Thank you!


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## Ken226 (Oct 14, 2021)

wachuko said:


> Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects
> 
> 
> Download files and build them with your 3D printer, laser cutter, or CNC. Thingiverse is a universe of things.
> ...



No problem sir.  Glad to help.


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## Ken226 (Oct 14, 2021)

I was able to fit 3 holes.   2 taps and a drill per size.





That should be sufficient, yes?  A tap drill, taper tap and bottoming tap in each set of holes.  

I measured the shank diameters of my existing taps and added .015 ish.   Some taps have different shank diameters, so that could be an issue for different tap brands.

I set it to test with a dual extruder print.  I'll try a couple metallic colors like titanium and silver and see what happens.

I've had mixed results with dual extruder prints.


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## kolbroshop (Oct 21, 2021)

oops, i also sometimes get carried away


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## wachuko (Oct 21, 2021)

Finally getting to print a few things...  X-axis belt had come loose... fixed that.  Changed filament to silver PLA... and printing away.


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## wachuko (Oct 22, 2021)

I need to get the correct bolts for these... but really liking all these printed accessories!

All I have is AXA holders for now... when the PM1236 arrives, I will print some of the BXA holders from Kenneth files.






AXA Toolpost indicator holder from Blondihacks...


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## GreatOldOne (Oct 26, 2021)

My humble contribution:








						Modular Machinists Organiser Tray System by GreatOldOne
					

UPDATED 22/06/20 Trays to hold standard 5C & ER32 collets plus plain trays of various lengths - modular, print as many as you need and keep them together with the bowties. Each rack has a label slot so you can put a size label in for easy collet finding (so long as you put the collets back where...




					www.thingiverse.com
				












						Milwaukee Tool Hangers by GreatOldOne
					

Simple brackets to hang Milwaukee Fuel 18v tools on the wall. Print, screw to wall, hang tool. tool hanger V2 - good for the multi-tool wider tool hanger - wider version of the V2 part, good for the 115mm angle grinder Jigsaw hanger - sized for the body-grip jigsaw




					www.thingiverse.com
				












						Wiha Screwdriver Rack by GreatOldOne
					

Rack to hang Wiha Soft Finish screwdrivers - I have a set of 12: 3 flat - 3.5,  4 & 6.5 2 Pozi - PZ1, PZ2 3 Philips - PH1, PH2, PH3 4 Torx - T15, T20, T25, T30 Sized for these, in that order. The rack is in two parts to accommodate it on the print bed. Print both. PT1 will accommodate the flat...




					www.thingiverse.com


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## wachuko (Oct 26, 2021)

This can certainly become addictive...

After printing this mount I came across a thread on a related topic and this is not something recommended as the dremel is not rigid enough for any serious work... so maybe this never gets used, but I had already made it so had to share it here...







Printed a few more mounts, and now I have enough mounts for all the tool holders that I currently have... Now to install on the bench...


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## Just for fun (Oct 26, 2021)

That 3D printer stuff looks pretty cool.   I don't know anything about 3D printers.   What is a good middle of the road unit to start with?   Are there lots of different plastics to use?   What are you guys using to make the tool holders?

Tim


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## GreatOldOne (Oct 26, 2021)

I tend to print exclusively with PETG - it’s strong and UV resistant, unlike PLA. You do need a heated bed for it though.


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## jwmelvin (Oct 26, 2021)

I also use petg unless I want better stiffness.


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## wachuko (Oct 26, 2021)

When I started, only had ABS and PLA to play with... now there are many, many different filaments that you can use... so I am finishing all those rolls before I order anything else...

Also, many printers available now that you can start with for less than 200.00... mine is a very old one and limited to a print size of  6"x6"x6"

For example... here is one with a print size of 11.8"x11.8"x15.7" : https://www.ebay.com/itm/393649643299?hash=item5ba758df23:g:B58AAOSwGuBhdv6I

So tempted to get another one only to be able to print larger parts...


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## frugalguido (Oct 27, 2021)

I didn't know anything about 3d printers and from learning about people's frustration with them (constantly having to adjust this or that) I went with a Creality  CR-6se from Tiny Machines in Houston. It came all set up from them and tested, just basically plugged it in and started printing. No problems at all for over 1 year. But, I have a still a lot to learn about the slicer and the different filaments.


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## PHPaul (Nov 3, 2021)

I'm a tool/organization freak and I'm embarrassed that I never thought of using my 3D printer to solve some issues in that department.

Thanks!

I think...


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## keeena (Nov 8, 2021)

Ken226 said:


> Anyone else go overboard with their 3d printer?


Guilty!






The storage rack is for this die holder that I picked up on eBay.


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## Ken226 (Sep 16, 2022)

Another rack for my tailstock tools.   I'll mount it to my 3034 t-slot rail.

Firing up the printer as soon as the mailman drops off my metallic rose gold PLA spool today.


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## Ken226 (Sep 17, 2022)




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## slow-poke (Sep 18, 2022)

I really need to get a 3D printer. Assuming I can live with printing nothing larger than say ~6x9” and I want it to work reliably.
1) what should I expect to pay? 
2) any suggestions on make / model?


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## WobblyHand (Sep 18, 2022)

slow-poke said:


> I really need to get a 3D printer. Assuming I can live with printing nothing larger than say ~6x9” and I want it to work reliably.
> 1) what should I expect to pay?
> 2) any suggestions on make / model?


Might want to include how much tinkering you want to do to upgrade/improve the printer.  Some are good enough out of the box to get solid prints every time, others need some tinkering.

It's time for me to get one myself.  I don't want to mess with one, at least in the beginning.  Want to be productive from the get go.


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## slow-poke (Sep 18, 2022)

WobblyHand said:


> Might want to include how much tinkering you want to do to upgrade/improve the printer.  Some are good enough out of the box to get solid prints every time, others need some tinkering.
> 
> It's time for me to get one myself.  I don't want to mess with one, at least in the beginning.  Want to be productive from the get go.


Good point, I would expect it to work as delivered other than perhaps adjusting for setup. Upgrading is generally fun for me and This appeals to me because I need to work with something for a while to appreciate what upgrades would be worthwhile pursuing.


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## pdentrem (Sep 18, 2022)

Prusa is plug and go vs Ender and others. Two of the guys at work have each and the Prusa was cheaper to run vs the Ender which the needed multiple upgrades to get it to print properly. in the end he wishes to have bought the Prusa first.
Pierre


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## WobblyHand (Sep 18, 2022)

pdentrem said:


> Prusa is plug and go vs Ender and others. Two of the guys at work have each and the Prusa was cheaper to run vs the Ender which the needed multiple upgrades to get it to print properly. in the end he wishes to have bought the Prusa first.
> Pierre


$800 vs about $300, the eternal trade off.  How much is the $500 extra really worth in time and frustration.  I've been told 3d printers are another rabbit hole.  I don't need another rabbit hole to fall into.  The machining rabbit hole is deep enough, thank you.  

Would be nice to have the Prusa.  For that matter it would be nice to have a 3d printer.  Still trying to convince myself if I need one.  Would I use it and do stuff if I had one, of course.  Can think of quite a few things I could make.


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## pdentrem (Sep 18, 2022)

Wasted time fixing ….is wasted life and added stress to reduce my personal time.
I have not bought one as of yet. The guy at work with the Prusa prints what I currently need but I am very much tempted!
Pierre


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## WobblyHand (Sep 18, 2022)

pdentrem said:


> Wasted time fixing ….is wasted life and added stress to reduce my personal time.


Can't argue with that.  $500 is, at least for me, not minor, so wonder what else it could get me...  Don't care to be frustrated with sub par stuff, though.


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## Ken226 (Sep 18, 2022)

I use a Flashforge Creator Pro.  It's been superceded by a newer model (Creator Pro 2),  so the Creator Pro original is under 500$ on Amazon these days.  It has a 6" x 8.5" (ish) build plate and dual extruders.


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## slow-poke (Sep 18, 2022)

Ken226 said:


> I use a Flashforge Creator Pro.  It's been superceded by a newer model (Creator Pro 2),  so the Creator Pro original is under 500$ on Amazon these days.  It has a 6" x 8.5" (ish) build plate and dual extruders.


Does this model work well, is it reliable?


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## Ken226 (Sep 18, 2022)

slow-poke said:


> Does this model work well, is it reliable?



 bought mine 2018 if I remember correctly.

So far the only issues I've had were due to me not understanding what I was doing, early on, in the first year of ownership.

Once I started setting up correctly for different filament types, using the correct settings,  leveling and adjusting the build plate correctly, everything started going smoothly.

The machine itself works pretty well. 

The replacement build plate sticker/liner things are overpriced and kinda suck.  Glass build plates are the way to go.  The flexible magnetic spring steel ones are nice too.  I have several of each.

For PETG I've found that setting the build plate gap is a big deal.   Too close and it sticks so hard you'll ruin the plate trying to get it off.  Too far and it won't stick at all.  I use the spring steel magnetic setup for PETG.  When the print is done, you can pop the magnetic plate off and flex it like an ice tray. The part pops right off.


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## RandyWilson (Sep 18, 2022)

WobblyHand said:


> $800 vs about $300, the eternal trade off.



More like $1100 vs $300. And 4-8 weeks shipping (not included) vs next day from Amazon. The $800 Prusa is a kit that you will spend a day or two putting together. The $300 Ender comes knocked down in sub-assemblies; 15 minutes assembly time. Upgrading the Ender to auto bed leveling, a good filament sensor*, and even a direct drive extruder can be done for under $200 and less time than assembling the Prusa. Or you can buy an Ender with those options already installed.

* last time I checked, the Prusa filament sensor only detected presence, not motion. The BTT sensor everyone uses on the Enders detects both.


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## WobblyHand (Sep 18, 2022)

RandyWilson said:


> More like $1100 vs $300. And 4-8 weeks shipping (not included) vs next day from Amazon. The $800 Prusa is a kit that you will spend a day or two putting together. The $300 Ender comes knocked down in sub-assemblies; 15 minutes assembly time. Upgrading the Ender to auto bed leveling, a good filament sensor*, and even a direct drive extruder can be done for under $200 and less time than assembling the Prusa. Or you can buy an Ender with those options already installed.
> 
> * last time I checked, the Prusa filament sensor only detected presence, not motion. The BTT sensor everyone uses on the Enders detects both.


How do you figure $1100?  That is for a fully assembled machine that is fully tested.  As for shipping, ehh, I don't mind the wait.  There's no ants in my pants.  The $799 is for a kit that is self assembled, which I understand.  I don't mind putting stuff together to save some money.  

You are correct, the docs state the filament sensor is presence only for the Prusa.  Is motion needed, or is there another way to determine if there's an issue?  I don't know things like this, having not delved into the _dark arts_ of 3d printing.

Knowing the full costs is important, and it is good to understand the costs and time to get to a decent well performing machine.

If I knew how to order all the parts to have a good machine, that wouldn't take that long to put together (a day is ok) that worked well, I'd entertain any printer.  At the moment, _I don't even know what to look for_.  Perhaps that is who Prusa is targeting.  Do you have a list of what is needed?  Does it have an estimate of time and cost?  Even a WAG on time & cost would be ok.

I'd like to have remote printing.  The Prusa states an RPI is needed.  Is this similar for other printers?


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## RandyWilson (Sep 18, 2022)

Several posts alluded to the Prusa coming ready to go for $800. That is false. The "ready to go" version is $1100; $800 only gets you a box of parts that needs assembly, adjustment, and tuning. And you WILL have to learn how to adjust and tune. Buying the completed machine only delays the inevitable. 

Shipping is both time and money. International shipping out of eastern Europe.

RPI with Octoprint / Octopi is the standard remote control platform for all printers. Both Prusa and Ender are from the RepRap family. same controller tech, if not the exact same board. Same Marlin firmware. Same base Mk 8 hot end.


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## WobblyHand (Sep 18, 2022)

RandyWilson said:


> Several posts alluded to the Prusa coming ready to go for $800. That is false. The "ready to go" version is $1100; $800 only gets you a box of parts that needs assembly, adjustment, and tuning. And you WILL have to learn how to adjust and tune. Buying the completed machine only delays the inevitable.
> 
> Shipping is both time and money. International shipping out of eastern Europe.
> 
> RPI with Octoprint / Octopi is the standard remote control platform for all printers. Both Prusa and Ender are from the RepRap family. same controller tech, if not the exact same board. Same Marlin firmware. Same base Mk 8 hot end.


If you are implying that I said $800 ready to go, I don't think I said that.  All I meant was after assembly it was pretty much done, save for testing that it was assembled correctly and alignment.  It's not a trivial task, but after those steps are done is it not good to go?  Or am I misunderstanding the scope of the effort?

I have no problem with octo anything.  Have a few spare RPI's available for such a task.  Setting up an RPI should be straight forward.  Is an RPI3 good enough?


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## slow-poke (Sep 18, 2022)

Ken226 said:


> bought mine 2018 if I remember correctly.
> 
> So far the only issues I've had were due to me not understanding what I was doing, early on, in the first year of ownership.
> 
> ...


Thanks, that is very helpful, I will plan for the spring steel, sounds like the way to go. I feel like I’m hijacking the thread so I’m going to stop posting and continue reading and watching 3D buyer guide type videos. 

Thanks for posting.


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## 7milesup (Sep 18, 2022)

I purchased a Prusa I3 Mk 2.5S kit in the fall of 2017.  The last time I looked, it had 175+ days of printing on it and counting.  It is currently making Akro-Mills drawer bin compartments as I type this.  When I purchased mine, I also had the choice of a ready-to-run unit or assembling it yourself.  I chose to assemble my own for two reasons.  1.)  Money.  Did not want to pay someone else to do something I could do.  My whole life seems to revolve around that philosophy.  2.)  I knew that I would enjoy the build and have a better understanding of how the machine works. 
 The instructions that come with the Prusa are second to none.  You can check out their support on their website.  *Here is an example of their instructions. *
There are a TON of Ender printers out there and a lot of support within forums, and many upgrades are available.  The one other reason that I chose a Prusa is Josef Prusa is somewhat the godfather of 3D printing, and wanted to support him and his company vs. sending my money to Chinese companies that take others' ideas and reverse engineer them.


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## WobblyHand (Sep 18, 2022)

Yeah, I will stop highjacking as well.  Someday I can post here on topic.


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## 7milesup (Sep 18, 2022)

WobblyHand said:


> Yeah, I will stop highjacking as well.  Someday I can post here on topic.


No you won't.  LOL


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## ttabbal (Sep 19, 2022)

Even the "better" home gamer printers need adjustment and tuning for the best results. The really high end industrial stuff might not, but I doubt anyone here would drop the cash for one of those. 

Most of the time, you put a few sub assemblies together and connect a few connections. Nothing difficult. You then usually have to level the bed at least roughly, and tune the Z offset so that the printer knows how close the nozzle is to the bed. First layer is critical. Setting things like e-steps is a good idea as well. 

I recently needed a larger printer and went with the Ender 3 S1 Plus. It's worked very well for me. I'm mostly using Polyterra PLA. I can recommend the setup for beginners higher than the non-S1 Enders. The bed probe is nice and helps significantly with leveling. The Plus is a larger build area, the pro I would skip as the upgrades are few and easy to add later if you want them. 

For remote stuff, the raspberry pi setups with octoprint or similar are really nice. I do pretty much everything with them, I don't even have the screen on the Ender installed.


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## great white (Sep 19, 2022)

Tool holder rack is PETG.





Those are old pics, I have built more since. That's ABS.

Also a couple additions to the machines themselves. Got tired of needing the wrench to tighten and loosen the mill drawbar so:





Printed it off (petg), machined the interior bore to a slightly loose slip fit, melted an appropriate sized twelve point socket into the plastic and now I can drop the handle on the mill and turn it easily to loosen/tighten the draw bar.

Decided to print a few gears for the lathe and the mill:






Those are for the atlas 10F (ABS), but I printed off a couple of the "infamous" plastic gears that are in the mill head (also in ABS). Nice to have spares and to be able to print one off if I ever need it. Much better than waiting days to weeks to get a replacement.

And yes, 3d printing is a great big rabbit hole. Once you start, it sucks you all the way in........and there's literally no bottom. Seems like there's always a better hot end, filament feed method, or some other "upgrade" you'll think you just can't live without. Then there's the endless miles and miles of filament you'll need to run through it to make whatever it is you want to make.

Bottomless pit it is.....


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## Wheat.Millington (Sep 19, 2022)

This thread is great. I've just bought my first 3d printer, the Ender 3 v2. Literally finished building it last night and printed the cat model that came with it. Looking forward to more tinkering, I've already ordered a handful of upgrades (bed springs, extruder, etc, auto-bed-leveling).


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## Ken226 (Sep 19, 2022)

I've been working  on a pegboard holder for my Edge Technology Pro-Tram.   The Pro t
Tram is a cool looking gadget and would look better on my pegboard than in a drawer.

Anyone use a Pro-Tram?  Keep it tucked away in a drawer or on display?

I'm thinking of designing it around these auto body plastic fasteners.  They work good for anchoring things to pegboards holes:

uxcell 100pcs Universal 6.3mm Hole Plastic Black Rivets Fastener Fender Bumper Push Pin Clips for Car Vehicle https://a.co/d/gOQKZ2S


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## 7milesup (Sep 19, 2022)

Ken226 said:


> I've been working  on a pegboard holder for my Edge Technology Pro-Tram.   It's a cool looking gadget and would look better on my pegboard than in a drawer.
> 
> Anyone use a Pro-Tram?  Keep it tucked away in a drawer or on display?
> 
> ...


I don't use pegboards at all in my shop.  I literally took them all out and burned them.  It is pretty much guaranteed that whatever is on that pegboard is eventually going to fall off.  One of my coworkers just got done printing a "basket" he downloaded from *www.thingiverse.com* but apparently, it already broke and fell off of the pegboard. It may have been a faulty design, and I shouldn't blame the pegboard, but the pegboard should be burned anyhow. I don't like pegboards.


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## Ken226 (Sep 19, 2022)

7milesup said:


> I don't use pegboards at all in my shop.  I literally took them all out and burned them.  It is pretty much guaranteed that whatever is on that pegboard is eventually going to fall off.  One of my coworkers just got done printing a "basket" he downloaded from *www.thingiverse.com* but apparently, it already broke and fell off of the pegboard. It may have been a faulty design, and I shouldn't blame the pegboard, but the pegboard should be burned anyhow. I don't like pegboards.



Oddly I've never had anything fall off in 10+ years.  It may be the difference in design though.

Mine are steel wall-control brand pegboards.  It has the 1/4" holes like most pegboards, but I only use those with the screw type anchors listed above.

All of my hooks mount In the vertical slots and lock in pretty good.

As tough as they can be to remove when I intend to move one,  I cant imagine a way they could fall out.











Even the magnetic indicator holders, while not as secure as the hooks, hang on tight enough to have never moved.


I have one of the fiberboard home-depot type begboards on a workbench,  and I definitely see your point on that one.    It sucks pretty bad. 
I'd replace it with the steel wall-control panels, but the space available doesnt match up to the wall control panel sizes.


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## Ken226 (Sep 19, 2022)

I'll print one of these tomorrow and see if it needs any adjustments to fit.






The 1/2 inch shaft on the Pro-Tram should snap into this socket securely enough to prevent it from ever falling out






And the body will sit behind this raised shelf.






To remove, itll have to be lifted over the shelf, then pulled free from the clip/socket.


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## 7milesup (Sep 20, 2022)

@Ken226  That is an awesome design.  Your "pegboard" is at a whole different level than the craptastic stuff I had.  Yours is a McLaren while mine was Yugo.  I have never seen that type of system.
My reply above had some tongue-in-cheek slant to it.


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## great white (Sep 20, 2022)

Wheat.Millington said:


> This thread is great. I've just bought my first 3d printer, the Ender 3 v2. Literally finished building it last night and printed the cat model that came with it. Looking forward to more tinkering, I've already ordered a handful of upgrades (bed springs, extruder, etc, auto-bed-leveling).


If you are adding a touch sensor (ie: bltouch, etc) consider getting rid of the bed springs. I ditched them on my CR10 V3 as they would allow too much movement for me and they would routinely loose their adjustment. That was with the "upgraded" springs. I printed out solid mounts, trued the bed up and now it never comes out of adjustment. the BLtouch maps the surface so once the z offset is set, perfect prints every time. 

I also run a Volcano hot end as I found the stock end could barely keep up with a 0.4 nozzle. Now it can run up to a 1.2 nozzle without skipping a beat. 

A direct extruder is also highly recommended. I run E3d's titan extruder. I got tired of the bowden tube eventually pushing it's way out of the clamp and went with the titan. No more filament problems. 

Lastly, I run a custom version of marlin. Not that you can't get by with what is provided by creality (it's an older version of marlin), but there are so many more features in newer marlin builds that make printing soo much easier. The custo firmware I use is from a facebook group called nick's firmware, or something similar to that. It all used to be free downloads, but I've noticed lately he is transfering a lot of stuff to "patreon".

Good luck and have fun.


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## great white (Sep 20, 2022)

7milesup said:


> I don't use pegboards at all in my shop.  I literally took them all out and burned them.  It is pretty much guaranteed that whatever is on that pegboard is eventually going to fall off.  One of my coworkers just got done printing a "basket" he downloaded from *www.thingiverse.com* but apparently, it already broke and fell off of the pegboard. It may have been a faulty design, and I shouldn't blame the pegboard, but the pegboard should be burned anyhow. I don't like pegboards.


Breakage is often accountable to a couple things. One is the layer adhesion, which has a lot to do with your settings and how the machine itself is set up. The other is orientation of the print. IF you have something sticking out (like a pegboard thing) you wnt to be sure to print it so the layers are not parallel to the load path or the print can split at the layers. you want to arrange the print so that the object is printed perpendicular to the load path. then, it has to break the whole object to fail instead of cracking off a pin that's comprised of a stack of layers, like you would stack dimes. 

3d Printing is like machining. You can't just buy the equipment and go at it and expect good results. You have to learn a boat load of techniques and processes....


----------



## Ken226 (Sep 20, 2022)

Unfortunately, the dimensions were a bit too tight in a few spots.  Given the amount of force needed to pop it in/out of the holder,  the plastic rivets that will attach it to the pegboard wouldn't last long.







I adjusted the model and have another one running now.


----------



## Wheat.Millington (Sep 20, 2022)

great white said:


> If you are adding a touch sensor (ie: bltouch, etc) consider getting rid of the bed springs. I ditched them on my CR10 V3 as they would allow too much movement for me and they would routinely loose their adjustment. That was with the "upgraded" springs. I printed out solid mounts, trued the bed up and now it never comes out of adjustment. the BLtouch maps the surface so once the z offset is set, perfect prints every time.
> 
> I also run a Volcano hot end as I found the stock end could barely keep up with a 0.4 nozzle. Now it can run up to a 1.2 nozzle without skipping a beat.
> 
> ...



Great tips, thanks.


----------



## Ken226 (Sep 20, 2022)

2nd attempt worked out.  Fits snug, and pops in/out with a gentle push.


----------



## Ken226 (Sep 22, 2022)

For those that havn't tried them,  these auto body fasteners work pretty good.  

You can just press the plastic screw in with your thumb to lock them,  and thread them out with a screwdriver to release.  It was about 9$ for a bag of 100 on Amazon.


----------



## Ken226 (Oct 18, 2022)

Made one for my lathe tool height gauge this morning.


----------



## 7milesup (Oct 18, 2022)

I like that color.  What filament are you using?


----------



## Ken226 (Oct 18, 2022)

7milesup said:


> I like that color.  What filament are you using?



It's CC3d  metallic rose gold coffee PLA, from Amazon.

I got it because it kinda looks like tatanium.

Silk Rose Gold PLA Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament 1KG 2.2LBS Spool 3D Printing Materialc Silky Shiny Shine Rose Gold (Dark) Metallic PLA Filaments CC3D Coffee Brown Chocolate PLA https://a.co/d/bEJfxwI

You'll need to look up the ideal silk PLA settings for your printer, because it pillows pretty bad using regular PLA settings.


----------



## pdentrem (Nov 2, 2022)

The co worker at work printed this yesterday. Wants to submit to a competition where the part has to be done in one print. Cool!
Pierre


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## 7milesup (Nov 2, 2022)

Those types of parts are called Print In Place (PIP).  There are some very interesting PIP designs out there.  Here is a typical one that I pulled from the web.


----------



## Ken226 (Nov 2, 2022)

7milesup said:


> Those types of parts are called Print In Place (PIP).  There are some very interesting PIP designs out there.  Here is a typical one that I pulled from the web.




I was testing my CAD abilities out with a print in place model a few days ago.  It was tougher than I expected.

It took me a half dozen prints to get the air gap between moving parts just right.  With PLA it works very well, albeit a bit tight to get the moving parts broke loose without breaking it.  The "general rule" of double the layer height is a starting point.  You definitely gotta tweak it from there to fit the material.   For standard PLA, I ended up with just i little more than double the layer height to get it to work.

I made good use of Alibre Design's equation editor with this one,  to create parameters than could be changed and re-exported on the fly.

Unfortunately, when I print one in PETG, ABS or silk PLA the air gap dimensions change and it's either locked up solid, or too loose to be useable.  It would seem that the air gaps need to be tuned to a specific material.   One of these weekends I may print/test and adjust the parameters to get some PETG and ABS versions.






						Printables
					






					www.printables.com
				









The front and rear "extra" parts are snap-off support tabs.  They print in place with the model, then are snapped off and thrown in the trash.









But,  we don't buy chip clips anymore :}








On tool storage,  I modified my MT3 tailstock rack to create a R8 versions.  I have one running in silver silk PLA now.  15 hours to go.

Thingiverse website seems to suck lately.  I started uploading my modes to Prusa's version, Printables.






						Printables
					






					www.printables.com


----------



## WobblyHand (Nov 2, 2022)

Ken226 said:


> I was testing out a print in place model a few days ago.  It was tougher than I expected.
> 
> It took me a half dozen prints to get the air gap between moving parts just right.  With PLA it works very well, albeit a bit tight to get the moving parts broke loose without breaking it.  The "general rule" of double the layer height is a starting point.  You definitely gotta tweak it from there to fit the material.   For standard PLA, I ended up with just i little more than double the layer height to get it to work.
> 
> ...


What's gone wrong with Thingiverse?
Hoping to give this a try in the next couple of weeks.  My printer will be shipped soon.


----------



## Ken226 (Nov 2, 2022)

WobblyHand said:


> What's gone wrong with Thingiverse?
> Hoping to give this a try in the next couple of weeks.  My printer will be shipped soon.



It still works,  but oddly many of the models I upload don't show up for nearly a week sometimes.  Sometimes they can't be found in searches for awhile,  then suddenly they show up again as if they were never gone.   When you add a pic,  or modify a file it takes forever for the edits to show up.

Printables seems to be working 100%,   and everything takes effect immediately.  Printables is owned/run by Prusa and they seem to stay on top of things. It seems well run.


----------



## 7milesup (Nov 2, 2022)

That is awesome @Ken226 !


----------



## Just for fun (Nov 2, 2022)

I made a piece for our shower.  The shower head is pretty high for my wife, and doesn't always want to get her hair wet.  In the photo I had just inserted a washer as there is a magnet in the shower head.  I have since added a magnet to my bracket and it holds the shower head real nice.   I did not do the Print in Place thing.


----------



## Ken226 (Nov 3, 2022)

the R8 rack came out good.


----------



## 7milesup (Nov 3, 2022)

I like your designs @Ken226 .  They are not only functional but also aesthetically pleasing.  

My Prusa is still on the fritz.  Three chat sessions with Prusa customer support and numerous attempts at various fixes have not worked yet.


----------



## Ken226 (Nov 3, 2022)

7milesup said:


> I like your designs @Ken226 .  They are not only functional but also aesthetically pleasing.
> 
> My Prusa is still on the fritz.  Three chat sessions with Prusa customer support and numerous attempts at various fixes have not worked yet.



Thanks.

What problem are you having with your Prusa?

Diagnosing electronics can be maddening!  I keep new replacements on hand for to common failure points on flashforge printers.   Mostly, a spare bed and replacement thermocouples.   None have failed yet (knock on wood).


----------



## 7milesup (Nov 3, 2022)

I initially had a heat bed thermal runaway which I traced back to the Molex connector on the Rambo board.  It had been arcing and eventually failed.  I purchased a new board from Prusa, and now I have a hot-end thermal runaway.  I have replaced the thermistor and the heater cartridge with no change.  The hot-end thermal runaway shows up shortly after the cooling fan starts, even though I have it limited to 40%.  Prusa has been good on CS chat, but last night they wanted me to try a Beta firmware with some custom M-code.  I could not get it to work.


----------



## Just for fun (Nov 3, 2022)

@Ken226 Your R8 rack came out looking great!


----------



## Ken226 (Nov 3, 2022)

7milesup said:


> I initially had a heat bed thermal runaway which I traced back to the Molex connector on the Rambo board.  It had been arcing and eventually failed.  I purchased a new board from Prusa, and now I have a hot-end thermal runaway.  I have replaced the thermistor and the heater cartridge with no change.  The hot-end thermal runaway shows up shortly after the cooling fan starts, even though I have it limited to 40%.  Prusa has been good on CS chat, but last night they wanted me to try a Beta firmware with some custom M-code.  I could not get it to work.



That sounds pretty frustrating.  Having replaced the board, thermistor and heater seems to cover nearly everything involved in that closed loop cycle. 

It's probably the first thing you checked, but the wiring harness connections between the thermister and board?



I had a head scratcher last year of a failed extruder fan.  Every part involved tested good.

I replaced the fan, board, etc.  I couldn't figure it out, and just used the printer as a single extruder printer for a long time.

Finally I decided to use the resistance setting on my multimeter to check continuity through the wiring harness, between the fan connector and motherboard fan headers.    One single wire was broken, inside the insulation,  with no insulation damage whatsoever.  Once I found the dead wire, I split the insulation and found the  break at about the midpoint.


----------



## 7milesup (Nov 3, 2022)

Yeah, I checked the resistance for the heater cartridge and the thermistor.  They are within spec.  
I'm on Prusa chat again here, and I disabled the cooling fan.  It is working now, but why did it work with the cooling fan before the board replacement now when the fan comes on it cools the head and I get the error.  Arrrggghhh.


----------



## pdentrem (Nov 3, 2022)

Maybe a dumb idea but are the thermistor leads reversed?
Pierre


----------



## Just for fun (Nov 3, 2022)

7milesup said:


> Yeah, I checked the resistance for the heater cartridge and the thermistor.  They are within spec.
> I'm on Prusa chat again here, and I disabled the cooling fan.  It is working now, but why did it work with the cooling fan before the board replacement now when the fan comes on it cools the head and I get the error.  Arrrggghhh.


Bummer Neil,  I hope you get it figured out soon.


----------



## Just for fun (Nov 3, 2022)

Failed design but it looks cool.  I forgot to accommodate all the protrusions on the lid.  Eight hours to go on Rev 2.


----------



## 7milesup (Nov 4, 2022)

pdentrem said:


> Maybe a dumb idea but are the thermistor leads reversed?
> Pierre


The thermistor has a connector installed from the factory.  I would suppose that the leads may be reversed, but I now think it is either the heater cartridge or the power supply.  I was on chat with Prusa again yesterday (4th time, so their customer support is pretty darn good), but their "fix" was to slow the cooling fan down.  I find it interesting that I have never had this issue before until my old board went.  I think I will reinstall the old heater cartridge to see if there is a change.  I only replaced it because I thought, "why not" I have it apart.

I have decided to build a Voron 2.4r.  A friend and co-worker is going to be building the Voron Trident, so we are going to do this together to help each other out.  I have the tools and machines to do the frames and whatever else we need.  The plan is to print the necessary ABS parts off at work on the Ultimaker. 

*https://vorondesign.com/voron2.4*

*Tom Sanladerer's Video*

*Dr. D-Flo's Veron 2.4r build.*


----------



## Weldingrod1 (Nov 4, 2022)

BTW, thermistors don't have a direction or polarity... its just a weird resistor.
Thermocouples and active temperature sensors DO have polarity.

Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk


----------



## Just for fun (Nov 4, 2022)

7milesup said:


> The thermistor has a connector installed from the factory.  I would suppose that the leads may be reversed, but I now think it is either the heater cartridge or the power supply.  I was on chat with Prusa again yesterday (4th time, so their customer support is pretty darn good), but their "fix" was to slow the cooling fan down.  I find it interesting that I have never had this issue before until my old board went.  I think I will reinstall the old heater cartridge to see if there is a change.  I only replaced it because I thought, "why not" I have it apart.
> 
> I have decided to build a Voron 2.4r.  A friend and co-worker is going to be building the Voron Trident, so we are going to do this together to help each other out.  I have the tools and machines to do the frames and whatever else we need.  The plan is to print the necessary ABS parts off at work on the Ultimaker.
> 
> ...



That looks like a fun project.  Looking forward to following along on your build.


----------



## Just for fun (Nov 4, 2022)

Well, I hate to admit it, but I hosed up Rev 2 of my screwdriver holder.  I made two errors in my measurements.  I'm not sure how I messed up on measuring the slot that I missed altogether the first time, but I did.  I cut the tab off of the lid and superglued it over a bit so works.  The other error was close enough that just a little massaging it works as is.  I lot better than the old broken up piece that I started with.  Still disappointing that I messed up twice in a row.


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## Ken226 (Nov 4, 2022)

Just for fun said:


> Well, I hate to admit it, but I hosed up Rev 2 of my screwdriver holder.  I made two errors in my measurements.  I'm not sure how I messed up on measuring the slot that I missed altogether the first time, but I did.  I cut the tab off of the lid and superglued it over a bit so works.  The other error was close enough that just a little massaging it works as is.  I lot better than the old broken up piece that I started with.  Still disappointing that I messed up twice in a row.
> 
> View attachment 425562




Excellent work.  

Only two revisions for a part with that much geometry is a good day.


----------



## Just for fun (Nov 4, 2022)

Thanks Ken


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## Ken226 (Nov 4, 2022)

I spent a few hours today designing an ER20 collet rack and an R8 collet rack.  The current ones are screwed to the wall.

these have 5/16" holes with spacing to accomodate the 3034-Lite T-slot rail im using.  Though, with washers and wood screws they could be wall mounted as well,  if you have wood to screw them into.  Not sure I'd trust the weight to drywall anchors.

 About 18 hours print time for each one :0

I tried for a more curvy, organic look.  To match some of my other recent tool racks.


----------



## WobblyHand (Nov 4, 2022)

Very nice designs, great shapes and flowing curves.  You definitely have a good eye for design.


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## Just for fun (Nov 4, 2022)

Those racks look great Ken!


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## Ken226 (Nov 4, 2022)

I keep all of my models on Printables,  should anyone want to spend 18 hours waiting for one of these things to print.






						Printables
					






					www.printables.com
				




I'm gonna print two of those R8 racks, for my 12pc collet set.


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## Ken226 (Nov 5, 2022)

For anyone who downloaded these two collet racks,  I'm going through the models and optimizing the internal geometry to minimize the amount of steep overhangs and number of supports needed.

The 3.0 version .STL models will (should) import into your slicer in the correct orientation to take advantage of the optimized geometry.

You should still let your slicer generate support structures,  especially the R8 rack.  Both should give much better results in the default orientation than the previous versions. 

The ER20 rack shouldn't need much for supports, assuming 45 degrees as the overhang support threshold.


----------



## Ken226 (Nov 6, 2022)

The R8 rack is almost done..

I'll have some free CAD time today.  I think I'll modify these existing models to create versions that take all of the ER series collets,  and maybe some for MT3 collets as well.


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## Ken226 (Nov 6, 2022)

I wanted to keep the overall dimensions below 8.5" x 6".   I did a few searches to determine the bed size for the more commonly owned 3d printers and it appears that once you get above 8x6,  they become alot more expensive and fewer people own them.


----------



## Firebrick43 (Nov 6, 2022)

Some 3D printed tool organizers and dust collection on a MFT/router table that I built recently


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## Ken226 (Nov 9, 2022)

I finished my ER20 rack and one of the R8 racks.  A second R8 rack is running now.

I love my Techniks collets..


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## wachuko (Nov 9, 2022)

I need to print these... Thank you!


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## Just for fun (Nov 9, 2022)

Wow Ken,   They look great.   I love the look of that filament also.


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## Ken226 (Nov 9, 2022)

Just for fun said:


> Wow Ken,   They look great.   I love the look of that filament also.



Amazon just dropped off another roll of it this morning. 

 I was really really hoping for an early delivery, because I'm well into the 2nd r8 collet rack and was gonna run out of that color.


----------



## Just for fun (Nov 11, 2022)

As some of you know I am teaching myself Fusion 360.  Taking a lead from @Ken226 I sort of copied his design for a MT3 tailstock tool holder.  It took me three days trying different ideas before I came up with a good way of drawing it.  Not all day really but 2 or 3 hours each night, LOL.  The first night was a total flop, I didn't get anywhere.  Anyway, I designed it to hold two drill chucks side by side in the back two holes and have a little room between them.  In the front I think there is room for a heavy-duty live center in the center hole (I don't have one) with smaller ones on the outside.   I haven't printed it yet, but it looks like it should work.


----------



## WobblyHand (Nov 11, 2022)

Just for fun said:


> As some of you know I am teaching myself Fusion 360.  Taking a lead from @Ken226 I sort of copied his design for a MT3 tailstock tool holder.  It took me three days trying different ideas before I came up with a good way of drawing it.  Not all day really but 2 or 3 hours each night, LOL.  The first night was a total flop, I didn't get anywhere.  Anyway, I designed it to hold two drill chucks side by side in the back two holes and have a little room between them.  In the front I think there is room for a heavy-duty live center in the center hole (I don't have one) with smaller ones on the outside.   I haven't printed it yet, but it looks like it should work.
> 
> View attachment 426297


That's very nice.  How is something like that printed?  Mounting surface is the base?  Hope to be able to make stuff like this.  Lathe area is in need of serious reorganizing.


----------



## Ken226 (Nov 11, 2022)

WobblyHand said:


> That's very nice.  How is something like that printed?  Mounting surface is the base?  Hope to be able to make stuff like this.  Lathe area is in need of serious reorganizing.



I've printed two so far.

set up so that its on the bed as its shown is his pic.

generate support structures,  with at least two solid raft layers above the support structures.








I printed my first using polyline linear supports 2.5mm apart, and one top solid support layer for the part to be printed on.  It turned out decent.

The second I used a triangular grid support layer with 3 top solid layers and it turned out great.  The undeside look as good as the top.


----------



## WobblyHand (Nov 11, 2022)

Ken226 said:


> I've printed two so far.
> 
> set up so that its on the bed as its shown is his pic.
> 
> ...


Thanks.  I have a lot to learn.  How are the support structures removed?  Just break them off?


----------



## Ken226 (Nov 11, 2022)

Just for fun said:


> As some of you know I am teaching myself Fusion 360.  Taking a lead from @Ken226 I sort of copied his design for a MT3 tailstock tool holder.  It took me three days trying different ideas before I came up with a good way of drawing it.  Not all day really but 2 or 3 hours each night, LOL.  The first night was a total flop, I didn't get anywhere.  Anyway, I designed it to hold two drill chucks side by side in the back two holes and have a little room between them.  In the front I think there is room for a heavy-duty live center in the center hole (I don't have one) with smaller ones on the outside.   I haven't printed it yet, but it looks like it should work.
> 
> View attachment 426297




The model looks good.  Your definitely on the right track.



When you get to the point where you want to start adding some complicated geometry, the most useful tool in the world is the ability to add work planes at any location or angle relative to your part.

Kinda like Mr. Miyagi's wax-on/wax-off.  It seems like such a simple tool of little useful value, but its the foundation that allows the lightbulb to come on later for thousands of ideas.


Here's a video on creating planes that I made for new Alibre users.  The plane creation tools in Fusion are close, if not identical to Alibre.

I recommend that newer 3d modelers go through the plane creation tools and practice them.  Every single one,   one by one, over and over until they are second nature.  

In that R8 collet rack I used several non-standard planes.  For the flat area with "R8 Collets" engraved,  I created a plane set at and angle to the top, rearmost edge of the part. Then offset that plane so that it intersects the part, then created a rectangular sketch and extrude cut, to create the flat.  Then added the text and extrude cut, to engrave.


----------



## Ken226 (Nov 11, 2022)

WobblyHand said:


> Thanks.  I have a lot to learn.  How are the support structures removed?  Just break them off?


 Yes.

I use a scraping tool to wedge between the support layer and part layer.    Sometimes they can stick pretty good and need some spatula action to cut between the support layers and the part itself.


----------



## Just for fun (Nov 12, 2022)

Ken226 said:


> The model looks good.  Your definitely on the right track.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks for the pro tips.  I did use one construction plane on my drawing.  I watched your video and played with each of the offset in Fusion today.  I can see where they will come in very useful.

Thanks again


----------



## Ken226 (Nov 14, 2022)

I finally got all those 3034 tool racks mounted to the rail, and attached to the wall.


----------



## Just for fun (Nov 14, 2022)

Looks good Ken.


----------



## WobblyHand (Dec 5, 2022)

Not up to the high standards that have been set here, but here is my initial entry.  Semi wrap around on 1.5" 80/20.  No fasteners needed.  Printed a 5 degree wedge that goes between the 80/20 and the splash guard, which tilts the 80/20 up by 5 degrees.  Design based on vtcnc's post, but designed for 1.5" 80/20.  Hope it holds up, if not, I will design something else.  Tight but sliding fit on the 80/20.  I have since widened the cross section on the vertical from 5mm to 8mm.  Draft mode, 0.3mm, 20% infill, 3 wide perimeter.  Made 11 holders.




Need to work on holders for my drill chuck and live center.  They will need to be made a bit sturdier.


----------



## vtcnc (Dec 6, 2022)

WobblyHand said:


> Not up to the high standards that have been set here, but here is my initial entry.  Semi wrap around on 1.5" 80/20.  No fasteners needed.  Printed a 5 degree wedge that goes between the 80/20 and the splash guard, which tilts the 80/20 up by 5 degrees.  Design based on vtcnc's post, but designed for 1.5" 80/20.  Hope it holds up, if not, I will design something else.  Tight but sliding fit on the 80/20.  I have since widened the cross section on the vertical from 5mm to 8mm.  Draft mode, 0.3mm, 20% infill, 3 wide perimeter.  Made 11 holders.
> View attachment 428868
> View attachment 428869
> 
> Need to work on holders for my drill chuck and live center.  They will need to be made a bit sturdier.


Really super job! How long is your print?


----------



## vtcnc (Dec 6, 2022)

Ken226 said:


>


Ohh..that's cool!


----------



## WobblyHand (Dec 6, 2022)

vtcnc said:


> Really super job! How long is your print?


About 1hr 10min for a single holder.  I went with 4 lines for the perimeter, rather than the normal 2.  After trying out the single holder, I then filled the sheet and did 9 at once.  That was ~ 10h 33min.  

Went with 0.2mm layer height for the wedges, a pair of them was 43 minutes.  Put in a 10mm clearance hole for the 3/8"-16 bolt.


----------



## WobblyHand (Dec 6, 2022)

vtcnc said:


> Ohh..that's cool!


Yes, @Ken226 is a super talented designer.  His stuff is functional and beautiful to behold!


----------



## WobblyHand (Dec 8, 2022)

Here's another ugly entry.  This is intended to be a drill chuck holder (MT3 arbor) for my lathe.  Made it 2" wide.  Printed on it's side with supports for the "brackets" and the hole.  There's a little flattening at the top and bottom of the hole, but overall came out ok.  Fits on 1.5" 80/20.




Just barely finished printing it.  Had 10 turns left on the last layer of the spool.  Here it is with the rest of the family.  


Need to make one more for my live center.  Will do that one tomorrow.


----------



## Ken226 (Dec 8, 2022)

WobblyHand said:


> Here's another ugly entry.  This is intended to be a drill chuck holder (MT3 arbor) for my lathe.  Made it 2" wide.  Printed on it's side with supports for the "brackets" and the hole.  There's a little flattening at the top and bottom of the hole, but overall came out ok.  Fits on 1.5" 80/20.
> View attachment 429312
> View attachment 429313
> View attachment 429314
> ...



Looks excellent to me.   The walls, top and bottom layers look great,  and the surface finish is as good as you'll get with FDM.

There's certainly nothing there that I'd call ugly. Your Prusa seems to be running quite nicely!

Excellent work!


----------



## WobblyHand (Dec 8, 2022)

Ken226 said:


> Looks excellent to me.   The walls, top and bottom layers look great,  and the surface finish is as good as you'll get with FDM.
> 
> There's certainly nothing there that I'd call ugly. Your Prusa seems to be running quite nicely!
> 
> Excellent work!


It's functional, but not pretty.  Someday I'll get a little better at the design part of things and make my designs a bit more artistic.

Managed to get the PLA dialed in.  Need to tackle PETG next.


----------



## Ken226 (Dec 8, 2022)

WobblyHand said:


> It's functional, but not pretty.  Someday I'll get a little better at the design part of things and make my designs a bit more artistic.
> 
> Managed to get the PLA dialed in.  Need to tackle PETG next.



Have you seen the results of acetone vapor polishing, on 3d printed ABS.  That'll certainly make it pretty.


----------



## WobblyHand (Dec 8, 2022)

Ken226 said:


> Have you seen the results of acetone vapor polishing, on 3d printed ABS.  That'll certainly make it pretty.


No I hadn't.  But that's not what I meant.  My design was utilitarian and plain.  It could use some additional design flair.  At this point, I'm just glad I can make stuff at all.  But in the future I'd like things to have nicer design elements.  Need to get better at CAD, still pretty much a beginner.  Just practice, practice, practice, in that order.


----------



## Just for fun (Dec 9, 2022)

Your MT3 holder looks good and is functional.   Good job!


----------



## keeena (Dec 9, 2022)

Functional is more important anyway!

@WobblyHand - do you use modifiers to override infill for high-stress areas? I find it can help a lot.


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## WobblyHand (Dec 9, 2022)

keeena said:


> Functional is more important anyway!
> 
> @WobblyHand - do you use modifiers to override infill for high-stress areas? I find it can help a lot.


No.  Not even sure where to find these parameters.  I'm just starting out, so don't know about stuff like that.  Is there an equivalent setting in PrusaSlicer, or is this found in a different slicer?  What terms or names might I search for?

Printed my second heavy weight holder for my live center.  The support structure was a bit harder to remove this time.  Only difference was a new spool of PLA.  Still looked good, but printed slightly different.


----------



## keeena (Dec 9, 2022)

Yep, in PrusaSlicer (its what I use). Modifiers are simple geometric shapes that you can place & size to intersect (overlap?) parts of your print. You then can apply specific infill density and pattern for the areas of your part which intersects with the modifier shape.

You can get to modifiers by right-clicking the part in the right-hand panel and select "Add Modifier" -> shape. This shape itself will not print but will be listed in the part panel on the right. Right-click on the modifier in the right-hand panel and you can set infill shape, infill pattern, bottom/top/perimeter thickness. These setting will be applied to your printed part wherever the modifier intersects your part.

I find they are very handy to beef up areas (particularly corners) with higher infill % than the rest of the part.

Prusa Modifier KB


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## keeena (Dec 11, 2022)

Made this storage rack for some angle blocks I picked up recently. The shallow degree blocks are pretty short and I wanted an easy way to get them out of the rack. I came up with a shelf (recess?) and finger cutout in the front ~1/3 of the holder; pressing on on the front side allows them to tilt up for easy removal.


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## Just for fun (Dec 21, 2022)

I made a chuck key holder.


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## WobblyHand (Dec 21, 2022)

Looks good!  I'll have to borrow that idea for my 1.5" 80-20.  I need something for the chuck keys and my spindle spanner wrench.  Already running out of space on my first 80-20 stick, probably have to prepare another one.


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## 7milesup (Dec 21, 2022)

A Chuckie holder!


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## keeena (Dec 22, 2022)

I'm going to have to get me some of that 80/20 extrusion - liking what you guys are coming up with.


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## 7milesup (Dec 22, 2022)

keeena said:


> I'm going to have to get me some of that 80/20 extrusion - liking what you guys are coming up with.


If you do head down the 80/20 path, check out *www.tnutz.com* for extrusions and hardware. They are considerably less than the 80/20 brand. Their hardware is literally less than half-price. The only caveat that I found with them is that one batch of their 4-hole inside corner brackets were not 90 degrees. For what I was using it for, it didn't really matter but...


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## keeena (Dec 22, 2022)

@7milesup - thanks! Your link looks incorrect - looks to be spam site trying to install browser extensions. I assume it should be tnutz.com.


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## 7milesup (Dec 22, 2022)

keeena said:


> @7milesup - thanks! Your link looks incorrect - looks to be spam site trying to install browser extensions. I assume it should be tnutz.com.


Cripes... you are correct.  Thank you for the heads up.  It has been corrected.


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