# VFD install question



## Great white hunter (Jan 30, 2014)

I just bought a teco 2hp jnev-202-h1 VFD and I was wondering if you have to have all the things they say to use like ground fault detector or line filters? The way I was going to do it is breaker box-fused disconnect-line filter-VFD. Does this sound OK? It says not to use breakers for off/on switch. Where do you put the off/on switch? Can I use the fused disconnect for the on/off switch? Thank you Jason:think1:


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## LEEQ (Jan 30, 2014)

jason nosse said:


> I just bought a teco 2hp jnev-202-h1 VFD and I was wondering if you have to have all the things they say to use like ground fault detector or line filters? The way I was going to do it is breaker box-fused disconnect-line filter-VFD. Does this sound OK? It says not to use breakers for off/on switch. Where do you put the off/on switch? Can I use the fused disconnect for the on/off switch? Thank you Jason:think1:


I am using my breaker as on/off for the power to my jnev. It is just reducing the life of my breaker. No big deal. I mean if you think about it cutting power from the vfd is cutting power from the vfd no matter how you slice it. It is also working great on my mill without the optional filters and such. Some recommend checking it out without them to see if you even need them. Do you anticipate the need to filter out interference? I see no benefit to adding a fused disconnect to the power after it comes from a breaker that eliminates the need for a fuse. It makes an unhandy switch also. At least the style I'm used to seeing requires unplugging a large plastic plug with metal prongs. If you want you can run the power from the breaker up to the machine and install a nice emergency off switch and then take the power from it to the vfd. From the vfd outputs to the machine motor. That would extend the life of your breaker. I run all functions like fwd rev on off speed ect from my vfd. You can use original switches as 12v inputs to the vfd if you set it up to recognize them. You can't wire them in to the output wires from the vfd though. Tempting, but a no no. Enjoy your Teco, I sure do! From a Step pulley to variable speed and single phase to clean three phase all in one simple box.


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## Great white hunter (Jan 30, 2014)

Thanks alot for the info. Its just when I looked it the instructions and seen all the crap they say to install before the VFD I crapped my pants. I have freinds that don't run any of that stuff and they have been fine but I just wanted to make sure. Thank you.


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## Pacer (Jan 30, 2014)

I guess Im like your friends, I run my VFD's bare bones...

The VFD is not an energy hog - around 8 amps? so a common on/off switch will suffice. I use a common on/off toggle rated for 220v and 20amp.

All you want to do is turn the power to the _VFD_ on and off, thats all, just like you would turn a light or fan or your computer on. All the rest of the functions are handled by the VFD thru the very small row of terminals inside the cover. Three phase coming out of the unit will go directly to the motor - this is where there is to be NO switching done - then to control start/stop/reverse/etc is accomplished through those small terminals. Here again, common switches can be used, the voltage here is 24v (IIRC)

Here is my Hitachi switch panel on the left is the power for the VFD, middle is to control fwd/off/rev, and then  the potentiometer. (the original sw on the mill is not used, is simp)ly left in the position shown





This is the inside - The wires along the bottom are to bring the switched 220v in and the 22v 3 phase out, the small wires at the top control the functions. Yours will no duobt look somewhat different, but should be very similar.


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## Pmedic828 (Jan 31, 2014)

The only problem with using a breaker for an on/off switch is that a breaker is rated for its amperage and to  cycle only so many times - about 25  if you keep turning the breaker on and off, some breakers will not hold their rated current but become weaker - I don't know if this is the case for All breakers, but it used to be so.  Why don't you put a on / off switch that is a double pole, single throw which means it has 2 sets of terminals or 4 to 6 terminals.  Wire each leg of the 220 volts to one side of the switch and connect the receptacle to the other.

1 side of 220 V breaker ..................|   switch    |............................receptacle --------------------------------------- VFD
1 side of 220 V breaker ..................|   switch    |............................receptacle ----------------------------------------VFD
Bare Copper inside breaker panel ------------------------------------- Green Terminal of receptacle    -------------- VFD


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## Great white hunter (Jan 31, 2014)

Pmedic828 said:


> The only problem with using a breaker for an on/off switch is that a breaker is rated for its amperage and to  cycle only so many times - about 25  if you keep turning the breaker on and off, some breakers will not hold their rated current but become weaker - I don't know if this is the case for All breakers, but it used to be so.  Why don't you put a on / off switch that is a double pole, single throw which means it has 2 sets of terminals or 4 to 6 terminals.  Wire each leg of the 220 volts to one side of the switch and connect the receptacle to the other.
> 
> 1 side of 220 V breaker ..................|   switch    |............................receptacle --------------------------------------- VFD
> 1 side of 220 V breaker ..................|   switch    |............................receptacle ----------------------------------------VFD
> Bare Copper inside breaker panel ------------------------------------- Green Terminal of receptacle    -------------- VFD



OK, I will go with the off/on switch. Thank you for all the info.


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## Smudgemo (Jan 31, 2014)

My VFD hasn't arrived yet, but I've got the wiring in place.  This is the switch I used: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...ble-Pole-Switch-White-R62-03032-2WS/100356941

No idea if it's the proper size for your setup, but it will be easy to put it in a box before the VFD.  The place where I bought mine said you aren't _supposed _to switch the line, but that guys do all the time.  Something about losing your programming if unpowered long enough?  I can't see leaving one running all week if you only work on weekends so I intend to experiment.

-Ryan


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## CluelessNewB (Jan 31, 2014)

I have 4 VFD's *NONE* have any of the following:  "Magnetic Contactor", "AC Reactor", "Input Noise Filter" or "Output Noise Filter".   

I do have a heavy duty 220V switch on the input side of the VFD so I can power it down when I am out of the shop.  This probably isn't really required.  All of the actual switching for control of the machine is done using the low voltage control terminals of the VFD.   I only use the input side switch when the machine is shut down and I am done with it for the day.


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## LEEQ (Jan 31, 2014)

I try to stay out of the city, and there is no such switch in my home town. Next time I'm there though...


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## Pmedic828 (Feb 1, 2014)

If you can't get the switch from Home Depot, go to hardware store or Radio Shack or a parts house like that and get a double pole switch rated for whatever amperage that your breaker is.  If it is a 15 amp double pole, get a switch rated for 15 amps 220VAC, if it is a 20 amp breaker, switch needs to be rated for 20 amps 220VAC.  You can get a blank cover plate in plastic or metal and bore holes to mount to box (screw holes top and bottom), Then drill appropriate hole to mach barrel of switch.  You only need a toggle switch.  I have made switch plates and switches for various projects this way.  Just remember, the ground is not cut and does not go thru the switch.  only each breaker has a line connected to the switch (one for each side if it is 220V 1 Phase).  From the other side of the switch connect it to the load or receptacle.  That way, you won't have to pay $$ for a $ switch.  Most switches are rated for AC or DC, so get an AC rated switch.  Most are universal.


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## Great white hunter (Feb 1, 2014)

Pmedic828 said:


> If you can't get the switch from Home Depot, go to hardware store or Radio Shack or a parts house like that and get a double pole switch rated for whatever amperage that your breaker is.  If it is a 15 amp double pole, get a switch rated for 15 amps 220VAC, if it is a 20 amp breaker, switch needs to be rated for 20 amps 220VAC.  You can get a blank cover plate in plastic or metal and bore holes to mount to box (screw holes top and bottom), Then drill appropriate hole to mach barrel of switch.  You only need a toggle switch.  I have made switch plates and switches for various projects this way.  Just remember, the ground is not cut and does not go thru the switch.  only each breaker has a line connected to the switch (one for each side if it is 220V 1 Phase).  From the other side of the switch connect it to the load or receptacle.  That way, you won't have to pay $$ for a $ switch.  Most switches are rated for AC or DC, so get an AC rated switch.  Most are universal.



The switch I bought I got on ebay its a 30 amp industrial 220 switch. I may just go with the fuse disconnect because it has a throw switch and I can use the throw switch for the off/on.


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## rdhem2 (Feb 1, 2014)

My oh my where does some of this information come from?

The OFF/ON switch you are trying to refer to, and the instructions refer to is the disconnect switch for the *POWER* to the VFD.  Not the OFF/ON for the *CONTROL* of the VFD. 

*Disconnect switches* come in many flavors, mainly fused and unfused.  They are next rated by duty, standard duty, 240v or less or heavy duty 480v or less.  Next rating is amperage, next rating is duty.  In most of our cases you want a motor duty rated switch.  Not a two pole residential 15/20 amp switch even though they may LOOK identical.  A switch rated for inductive load.

*Breakers* as built for residential type installation have two trip elements, thermal-for overload protection, and magnetic-for short circuit protection.  They do not weaken with use, how ever they are not rated to be used as switch duty unless so marked.  Breakers rated for motor duty, say like your air conditioner, are marked as rated for HVACR (heating, ventilation, air conditioning rated).

*Primary line filters* are to keep the harmonics and other produced electrical noise from the VFD from going up stream and affecting all other circuits in the source panel.  Like you turn your lathe on and your wifes TV or computer screen gets fuzzy.  It can actually go out your service lines to the Xfmr and affect every service common to the drop.  Wire is wire and those electrons don't know where to stop.  Once it hits the core of the primary transformer it is pretty well contained, but not completely.  That is why the power company dings customers for poor power factor.  Your bad electricity habits are seen all the way to the source.

*Secondary line filters* between the drive and the motor are there again to contain electrical noise and problems to the realm of the VFD. Like conductor heating when the wire is no where close to its maximum rating.

*Line contactors* are wired in by engineers on these schematics to give a path of power around the VFD should it fail so as not to disable a production line or such.

Please guys do not confuse primary power and control power.  Two different pigs in the same pen but they seldom mate.  Use a non fused disconnect switch by the machine to kill power to the equipment for servicing, safety, or to put it to sleep until the next use.  By placing fuses here, you are creating another place to create a potential problem when something fails.  Blown, or partially blown fuse.  You don't need them.  Toggle switches for this use are made to be mounted in a standard electrical enclosure and accepting a standard electrical cover of some sort.  UL and the electrical industry do not like the _ordinary_ person creating electrical devices.  Install your VFD bare bones, if a problem rears its head address it later when you know what to do. Saves time and money.

All the ratings I speak of are written on the device or the paperwork that accompanies it in its box.


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