# Fincor 2301 dc power supply



## Lordbeezer (Jul 13, 2017)

trying to wire up dc power supply..terminals numbered 1,2,3,4..wired two different ones terminal 1 black..2. White..115v ac..blew breaker in box both times..run switch and power switch were on when power was applied..can't find any info on this model.with 4 terminals would think 2 are for 115 v..other 2 to dc motor.how would I determine which ones get the 115 v..thanks


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## countryguy (Jul 13, 2017)

Can you take a picture of the bottom of the power supply?  Need to see the copper traces to give you lugs, but the AC input should go into the primary side of the Xformer (transformer).    See if you can trace back 2 of the lines from the Xformer to the lugs.  That is your AC input as 110 will usually go into the Xformer primary, get bumped down (or up) thru the windings, (the other side of the Xformer) and off into the DC building circuitry.   I see what looks like 2 or 4 larger diodes, but it's blurry.  2 diodes are needed for half-wave and 4 for full wave. That looks to  me like it uses Diodes to rectify and develop the Direct Current.  I have seen many of those with shorted diodes causing fuses to pop every time.   Use a diode checker or Ohm meter across them, looking for a direct short  and 0hms if bad.


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 13, 2017)

Thanks very much for info.will trace .hope the pictures will help..Phil ..if closer or different pictures are needed let me know


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 13, 2017)

Number 4 terminal under strip looks kinda rough..


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## countryguy (Jul 13, 2017)

Hmmm I cannot tell... I need to ID the Xformer pins on the underside.. I cannot tell from the bottom which ping are for the Xformer on the primary side.    If you took a black marker and eyeballed the pin going thru the top, and then out the bottom w/ solder and put a small circle around it, I could see a lot more than I am now.   Just a thought.   Do you have a volt/ohm meter and know how to use it?  I see see some places on the net to send the 2301 to for service.


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 13, 2017)

Xformer has 2 wires coming out on terminal end..3 on back side.1 of 2 goes to terminal 1..center wire of 3 goes to terminal 3...marked path with sharpie..hope it shows up in picture. Thanks for your time..Phil ..picture is of different board but looks the same.


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 15, 2017)

I put 115v on terminals 1 & 3..doesn't pop breaker.2& 4 put out appx.54 volts.knob doesn't change voltage..doesn't run either 2 dc  motors I wired in..tried different power supply.same results.back to the drawing board..


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## countryguy (Jul 17, 2017)

I Was able to find the attached manual, but its for a different 23 model.  Maybe it can help?   There are schematics in there. Sorry I could not be of more help


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 17, 2017)

That manual is for the 2330..way different unfortunately.called company that fixes fincor controls.emailed them pictures.so far they have no idea how to wire the 4 terminals..makes me wonder how they could test it for function..have 5 115 v.  1  230 v controllers..countryguy please don't be sorry..you helped.got me on a path..thanks very much for your time and knowledge.Phil


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## Ulma Doctor (Jul 18, 2017)

is there any chance of getting a picture of the terminal strip, head on?


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## markba633csi (Jul 18, 2017)

Phil you'll have to do some legwork to get those working.  You'll have to unsolder and test all the semiconductors (I can give you instructions) and 
trace out the circuit back at least partway from the terminal block so you know for sure how to connect it.
I looked online and couldn't find a schematic for it either, it's probably one of the first models they made.
Mark S.


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## markba633csi (Jul 18, 2017)

For testing you'll need a 9 to 12 volt DC "wall-wart" power supply and a small 12 volt light bulb (like an automotive turn signal bulb),
look around the house and see if you can scrounge those up, meanwhile I'll draw something up.
Mark


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 18, 2017)

If these pictures don't show what you need let me know..the red wire to right of terminal 4 is hooked to same then goes through off-on circuit breaker then on to run stop toggle switch.wouldn't that be 1 of the 115 v lines?..thanks very much..Phil


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## markba633csi (Jul 18, 2017)

Phil: yes terminal 4 must be the 115 v hot line, I'm guessing 3 is the 115 v neutral.  1 and 2 might be motor.  Try it like that and see if it works. Wear eye protection.
Mark S.


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 18, 2017)

Used a 2 prong extension cord put the big blade wire on terminal 4..smaller prong on 3.2.1 popped breaker each time..do I have hot and neutral backwards.using a power strip


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## Keith Foor (Jul 19, 2017)

OK hate to be the bearer of bad news but if you have applied 110 to the DC output of the unit which it sounds like you have, it's toast. 
Now for future reference on something like this.  The AC side of most stuff is going to go through the power switch and the smaller of the two fuses if there are multiple fuses.  If there is only one fuse it will be connected to the AC side.  So with a voltmeter, connect one lead of the volt meter to either leg of the switch and the other to the terminals.  Do this with the switch turned on.  One terminal will be a short or 0 ohms.  The other will be a very low resistance.  The short is the HOT AC line in and the low ohm one will be the neutral AC line. 

IF it's immediately blowing a 15 amp breaker as soon as you put power to it, it's shorted. 
Now with the size of that transformer, even having the output of that transformer shorted it would not draw 15 amps from the line.  For a 120 to 12 volt transformer to draw 15 amps, the output CURRENT would be 80 or 90 amps and that little transformer is no where near rated to handle that amount of power.

The little pictures on here frankly suck.  I can't make heads or tails of how things are laid out on the board at all.  I need a good sized top and bottom shot of the board with it turned directly over so that the bottom is the bottom in both shots.  Parts side and solder side.  
If I had that I would be able to direct you a bit better.  But then again, this is what I do for a living.


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 19, 2017)

If these pictures are not what you need.let me know. Thanks Phil


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 19, 2017)

The green looking stain on solder side is from a foam pad between board and circuit breaker


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## markba633csi (Jul 19, 2017)

Phil can you read the numbers on this device and can you give us a real close up shot of it?
It looks like there is no insulating washer there-might be an iso-tab
Mark
ps the wide blade is the neutral, the narrow one is the hot on a 115 v plug


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 19, 2017)

Eagle eye mark..how right you are.2 of the 3 I have in the house are missing insulating tabs..on those 2 the pot housing is grounded to the cover but not the terminals. Numbers are D62402-G1..


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 19, 2017)

On the "Good" one terminals 1 & 3 have continuity. Not on other 2.thanks for your time


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## markba633csi (Jul 19, 2017)

The SCR component that my blue arrow is pointing to- what numbers are on it? Is it D62402-G1? 
Mark S.


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 19, 2017)

No, the number is is68 then ho879..number sent earlier is off the board Assy. Thanks Phil


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 19, 2017)

Hope you can see numbers in picture.


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## chips&more (Jul 19, 2017)

If someone has already noted, I apologize. It looks like this supply has two outputs? One is 50VDC for the field and the other is 0-90VDC for the armature. So where are all of the terminals??? What am I missing? Is the input hard wired and the output with terminals or something like that?


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 19, 2017)

The run stop toggle switch on all have 2 unused terminals. Would that be input?


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## chips&more (Jul 19, 2017)

OK then, yes your AC input could be going to that switch. BUT,something does not look correct about how it is currently wired? Please do some checking on toggle switch configurations. And then on how your circuit is wired to that switch.


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 19, 2017)

Terminal 4 has red wire going to built in circuit breaker.comes out of breaker to toggle switch.in run position one wire has continuity.it goes by red wire to back of circuit board.it hooks to circuit board and goes to number 2 terminal..terminals 1 and 3 goes through transformer. Wouldn't 2 and 4 be power in..1 and 3 power out??thanks Phil..


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## markba633csi (Jul 19, 2017)

Chips: we don't have a schematic or manual for this thing so it's kind of shooting in the dark.  I think Phil will have to trace deeper into the circuit to determine for certain how it should be connected.  The only thing I am fairly certain of is that terminal 4 must be the 115v hot wire.  Everything else is guesswork at this point.
Phil: the numbers on the SCR devices looks like a "house" number so it doesn't tell us much yet.  You need to start drawing the circuit with pencil and paper from the terminal strip inward until it becomes clear how the front end of the circuit is configured. You should not need to trace the entire circuit only the first few connections from the terminal block.  Just connecting things willy-nilly will not get you there, and will damage the units.
Mark S.


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## Keith Foor (Jul 19, 2017)

Whoa wait... What?   You mentioned a "good one"  A good one that's like this and fully working, or just one that hasn't been fooled with yet but missing the power cord?


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 19, 2017)

Should have said I have a 220v and a 115 v power supply that I've not hooked up ..hoping they are good. The 220v one is a 2302 instead of 2301..Thanks Phil


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## brino (Jul 19, 2017)

Lordbeezer said:


> the number is is68 then ho879





markba633csi said:


> the numbers on the SCR devices looks like a "house" number so it doesn't tell us much yet



Hey guys, my NTE semiconductor cross reference(12ed.) gives NTE5466 as the cross for IS68, and lists it as "SCR-600VRM,10A"
It says the pins are KAG from left to right when looking at the markings. It indicates that the case/tab is connected to the anode "A", so that the insulating hardware supplied with the part must be used if subbing in the NTE5466.

The last line "H0879" is likely a date code.

-brino


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## markba633csi (Jul 20, 2017)

Cool Brino, thanks that's good to know.  I was hoping they were iso-tab like on the KB unit I have.
The main hangup now is figuring out where the 115v neutral goes on the terminal block. Possibly #1, not sure.  
I can tell Phil how to test the semiconductors and replace but he'll smoke 'em unless we know how to hook it up correctly.
Right Phil? 
Mark


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## markba633csi (Jul 20, 2017)

Phil: The key to unlocking this puzzle is tracing out the connections to the primary of that little transformer. I see the secondary goes to a bridge rectifier made of separate diodes which powers the low voltage circuits.
I also see one side of the transformer goes to pin 1 of the terminal block.  So then does the other side make it's way back to 115 hot/ pin 4 somehow? If so then 1 is neutral, 4 is 115v hot, and the motor would go to 2 and 3.  But trace it first to verify.   I can't see it that well from the pics. 
Mark


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## markba633csi (Jul 20, 2017)

The primary of the transformer is A and B in this picture- need to trace where A goes/comes from.  C,D,and E are secondary to bridge rectifier/low voltage supply
 Mark


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 21, 2017)

Will trace out.friday evening. Thanks very much for your help..I need to quit buying stuff that's a pain in the butt..you think you're getting a deal....


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## markba633csi (Jul 21, 2017)

I know it's tempting but buying electronics without any documentation can be risky.  We're getting closer now. It would be helpful if you could shoot a couple more close ups of the bottom of the board.  Half the board with one shot and half with the other so I can overlap 'em and get the whole picture so to speak. Do a couple more of the top side too. 
Ciao Phil,
Mark


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## countryguy (Jul 21, 2017)

Thanks for jumping in here guys!  Great notes.  Have we taken an ohm meter to the big rectifying diodes yet.  As an old EET from the linear days, I cannot tell ya how many of these  I replaced.  Symptom. Immediate fuse pop upon ac power up.    I think I saw a half wave in one of the pics. Looked fuzzy.  On a phone now . Willl check later too.


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## markba633csi (Jul 21, 2017)

Testing the semiconductors comes later, our first task is to determine without a doubt how the unit should be connected.  I'm sure we will find some bad parts too later on.
Waiting on Phil to post some more pictures so we can see the configuration of the SCR bridge. 
Mark


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 21, 2017)

I know this one needs parts..this is the one I put 115v on terminals 1 &3..melted the solder on loose part..green tint is from foam pad between board and circuit breaker..have 4 more 115v..1 220v and extra 220 board..if these pictures are not what you need let me know..thanks Phil..


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 21, 2017)




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## Lordbeezer (Jul 21, 2017)

Wouldn't load the 3rd and last pictures..sorry not in order. Thanks Phil


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## markba633csi (Jul 22, 2017)

Phil: I am fairly certain that 1 is indeed the neutral and 4 is the 115v hot.  I'm going to check again tomorrow with my coffee (my best time for thinking).
See if there are any numbers on the orange part between the terminal block and the transformer- not sure what that part is
Mark


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 22, 2017)

No writing.orange.yellow.white.that board is only one like that..2 115v..1  220v are the same..last picture is 220v..it's different than all..thanks..Phil


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## markba633csi (Jul 22, 2017)

Ok I see it's a cap, orange white yellow = 394= 0.39 uf
Pick out any Fincor units you have that you think might still be good,  check that the SCRs are all "IS68" and if they have insulating mica washers.  If they do, you could try hooking one up.
Terminal 2 and 3 are definitely motor wires,  Terminal 1 is neutral and 4 is 115v hot I'm certain now.
I see where the field would connect but it's a factory option, not connected on yours.
Mark


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## markba633csi (Jul 22, 2017)

If you don't see any mica washers at all then those parts may be iso-tabs after all.  We can check that with a meter, unsolder one and check for continuity between the tab and the center pin.  No continuity means iso, no washer needed
Mark


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 22, 2017)

Couple are insulated from ground..the pot case on insulated ones no continuity to ground..non insulated scr pot case is grounded..the scr that fell off board (haha) center pin to outside 2 no continuity .the non insulated scr has continuIty to ground


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## markba633csi (Jul 22, 2017)

If the SCRs are damaged the continuity test may be meaningless.  Do you want to unsolder and test them all? Or just see if any of the controllers work straight away and fix the broken ones later? Up to you.
Here's what you need to test the SCRs and diodes: You need a 9 to 12 volt dc wall wart or a car battery and a small 12v bulb.  Briefly connect the gate to the anode with a wire and the lamp should turn on and stay on until you remove the power.  
Use the same jig to test diodes, connect diode to A and C,  lamp should light. Turn diode around lamp should not light. 



Let me know what you find
Mark


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## markba633csi (Jul 22, 2017)

Another pic..


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 22, 2017)

Plugged one up.4 hot..1 neutral..turned breaker on..ok...turned switch on. Blew breaker ...gonna try another one..thanks for your time and info..maybe one will power up..then I'll try to test per your posts


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 23, 2017)

Well I tested one scr.wired up a 220v unit to 115..hit breaker on unit..ok..hit run toggle switch..ok..had 55-56 v.putting meter leads on 2 and 3..didn't change with pot..then pow..tripped house breaker.have never Tripped unit breaker..bad scr or was it dumb to hook up to 115..


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## markba633csi (Jul 23, 2017)

They may have all been dead before you got them. 
Also you should have a motor connected when you power them
Did you say that the SCRs showed continuity from tab to center pin or no continuity?
Mark
ps I recommend unsoldering all 5 devices (3 big diodes, 2 scrs) and test them.  Do it for all the units you have.  You might have enough good parts to make one good controller.


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 23, 2017)

No continuity to center but two outside pins have continuity..the 3 diodes with lines to them let voltage go one direction but not other..will get out the last one and test it per your info..thanks Phil


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 23, 2017)

What would make scr pop. Ground somewhere? Old age?


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## markba633csi (Jul 23, 2017)

Incorrect hookup would kill it. Or motor wires coming loose while running.  With the unusual terminal numbers I wouldn't be surprised if they got fried before you got them.
Diodes sound ok.  The SCRs have to be removed from the board to do a proper test on them using the jig with the power supply and light bulb.  Sounds like they are iso-tab types which is good, much easier to install than the non-isolated ones.
The ones that KB uses are iso too, I can get you some part numbers if you need to buy any.
Ciao,
Mark
ps make sure the board mounting brackets are not causing a short somewhere
pss the SCRs can fail shorted or open, usually shorted:  bulb on (or off) all the time; gate having no effect.


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## markba633csi (Jul 23, 2017)

Make doubly sure with an ohmeter the SCR mounting tabs are isolated from the center (anode) pin if they pass the light bulb test.  We don't want to make a false assumption
and blow your good parts.  
M


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 23, 2017)

In the process of cleaning out my reloading room so can lay this stuff out and do a proper diagnosis with your help..found a new rolling block stripped action (made in Italy I'm guessing.serial number only) I've been looking for..going to unsolder couple scr and check..Thanks


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 23, 2017)

Have 4 scr off..no tab to center wire contact..on 2 light is same brightness on outside wires when switching power around..on 2 when putting power to 2 outside wires light is dimmer when switching power(positive to negative)


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 23, 2017)

The only control marked with a bad tag works..last one to try..pot doesn't change speed of Baldor gear motor but what the hell..one step at a time..now ready to actually fix one or two or three..whooo  hoooo


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 23, 2017)

Reversed wires to motor to change rotation..ran appx 10 seconds.popped scr near terminals..last one that popped was same location...


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 23, 2017)

Took apart..scr not popped.both got hot enough to melt solder..ran about a minute..came back reversed motor wires.ran appx 10 seconds..quit.any ideas..scr's seem to test ok. Thanks


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 24, 2017)

I'm not actually popping the scr..it's getting hot and blowing the solder off the pins on back of board..replaced the one that smoked in reverse.switched motor wiring back..ran 5 seconds then blew solder off the other one..loud pop.kicks house breaker when it blows..any ideas on which way to go..thanks Phil


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## markba633csi (Jul 24, 2017)

What type of motor are you using here? Let's see it
M
ps You tested all 5 semiconductors with the jig? Did you test the SCRs for tab to anode continuity?
If you are blowing the house breaker you still have a dead short across the power line
I'm still thinking those are NOT isolated tab SCRs and you are putting a short across the power line as soon as you bolt them to the panel


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## markba633csi (Jul 24, 2017)

It would be good if you could plug into a GFI protected outlet to test these controllers, it would trip much more quickly and there would be less damage.
Here is what I would do:  Get another unit ready with tested semiconductors.  Before you mount the SCRs to the panel,  measure the resistance with an ohmmeter across 1 and 4 of the terminal block.  Then measure again after you mount them to the panel. If you get a different (lower) reading DON'T plug it in.
The SCRs will need insulating hardware, or you will need to replace with iso-tab types. (easier)
Mark


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 24, 2017)

The scr is not grounded to cover.bolts are nylon.made tabs out of plastic coffee can lid.scr has continuity on outside wires but not to center wire .tab to center wire .no continuity.the semi conductors pass current one direction but not the other.the motor is the Baldor gear motor I used on my vSd..1/7 hp I think..will wire up a gfi outlet b fore plugging up again..thanks very much for your help..


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## markba633csi (Jul 24, 2017)

You did use a jig to test the SCRs?  Continuity between outside leads sounds wrong. Shorted gate problem maybe-  Gotta use the jig to be sure
M
sounds like you're doing everything right so far- coffee can lid plastic isn't the best material for that though.  OK temporarily
Even if the controller was firing both SCRs at the same time the worst that would happen is the motor would run full speed, so I'm not sure what the problem is


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## markba633csi (Jul 24, 2017)

Verify for me:  You hook up SCR to jig, lamp is off.  Touch wire from gate to middle pin (anode) lamp lights and stays lit until you remove 12 volt supply?
Any other behavior means SCR bad. (no light, or light on without touching gate)
Mark


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 24, 2017)

Used a 10v dc charger.automotive test light hooked on one wire..other wire a probe..all the scr I've tested so far pass current on two outside wires..on two bulb is dimmer when switching wires around..on two brightness same


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 24, 2017)

Found on one board the solder on scr looked good but when removing board from cover both scr were loose at solder joints


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 24, 2017)

Light doesn't power up when going from either outer wire to center..center wire does not have continuity to tab..maybe I'm testing the wrong way


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 24, 2017)

Motor is 90v..1.53 amp..field on control is 50 v..arm is 90v..solder at scr blows out in a spray of dots..also black smudge..but looking at scr it looks no different.do I need to get a few scr's..if where.i looked on eBay but don't see any with same number..thanks


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## markba633csi (Jul 24, 2017)

Phil: You have bad SCRs.  The only correct result is as I said above.  They should be off initially then latch on and stay on when you tickle the gate.  You should pull all of them out and test. You can't test them easily with an ohmmeter.  Can't test reliably unless removed from board.
Also to test the big diodes you need to remove them or at least lift one end from the board, otherwise you may get confusing readings in circuit. You can test those with an ohmmeter.
I'll get back to you with some part #s for replacements
Mark


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## markba633csi (Jul 24, 2017)

Phil:   Littlefuse brand S6010LTP  available from Newark electronics  about 1$ each +shipping
    or  Littlefuse brand S8020LTP  available from Mouser electronics  about 2$ each + shipping
these are both isolated types, first one is 600 volt, 10 amp.  Second one is 800 volt, 20 amp.
either one will work fine with a 1/2 hp motor which is the max for those controllers.
For the big diodes you can use this 10A10 part:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-10A10...514521bbbc72c17a304377&pid=100505&rk=1&rkt=1&


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 24, 2017)

Hate to ask but how do I tickle the gate..I must be missing something or a lot of something..sorry for all the questions.believe it or not I learned a lot here. Thanks Phil


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## markba633csi (Jul 24, 2017)

For that SCR jig test you must use a steady dc source like a battery or a filtered dc supply.  A battery charger may not give the latching behavior you want to see.
Just so you know.  By tickle I mean connect wire briefly from gate to anode- you follow?SCRs are latching devices, they only turn off by removing the power or reversing the polarity of the power. That's how they control ac because ac reverses 60 times per second
M


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## markba633csi (Jul 24, 2017)

You'll be a genius when I get done learn'in ya LOL


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 24, 2017)

Will a battery out of drill be better than charger or a car battery. Thanks Phil


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## markba633csi (Jul 24, 2017)

Sure Phil you can use a cordless drill battery, a 12 volt battery and bulb would be ideal. Even a 9 v Makita battery would work.  Long as it lights up even half brightness it
will work for doing the test.  Once you see the "latching" action you'll know what I've been talking about- however, prepare to be disappointed since all your SCRs might be
burned out.  Let's hope you can find at least two good ones.
Mark
ps motorcycle battery would work too, or even some flashlight batteries in series.


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 24, 2017)

Not sure I'm doing this right..using clip I'm connecting a outside wire to middle wire..all 3 wires light test light,.of course the two clipped together would..couple scr are dimmer on separate wire..I'm thinking not doing it correctly


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 24, 2017)

Unsoldered a scr off a treadmill panel board..with power to tab all wires light up..one is dimmer than other 2..power to any wire lights up all 3..but with ohm meter no continuity from tab to center wire


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## markba633csi (Jul 25, 2017)

The scrs are bad if you dont see the latching action.  The scr you took off a treadmill may not be an scr at all. Or it could have a different pinout.
M
ps sounds like time to order some new ones


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 26, 2017)

Found site on how to test scr with meter..set it on 2000 M..any lower read OL...did 3...040 neg on A..111!pos on c..short g to A 10...remove ...A went to 108...2nd...same order. 035....119.....short g to a. 010 remove  went. OL...3rd almost same reading...any good?? Or bad??hope 1 reads good .if so can test all until find 2...mark..thanks for part numbers..AND you time..


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## markba633csi (Jul 26, 2017)

I don't understand your meter readings, but if you think you have a good one, check it with the battery and bulb. If it doesn't pass the latch test it's still bad.
I've never gotten good results trying to test scrs with a meter. 
Ciao Phil


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 26, 2017)

I'm going to study your directions again them try to test with bulb..Mark at Galco industrial electronics sent me some pictures of factory directions for 2301 and 2302 control.tthink it was good of him to go in warehouse and dig thru old paperwork..of course you were correct.1 and 4 incoming power..1 and 2 motor shunt field..2 and 3 motor arm..is my Baldor shunt wound?? Thanks Phil


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 27, 2017)

On three scr did light bulb test .put negative on center wire ..positive with bulb touching either wire to left or right of center no light..removed scr from a mc2100 control.did same test .it lit up..gonna test until I get 2..I hope..if not going to order some. Thanks Phil


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 27, 2017)

Would my Baldor dc gear motor be a shunt wound motor.has 1 black.1 white.1 green wires..a bodine dc gear motor I have has 4 wires.2 arm.2field..


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## markba633csi (Jul 27, 2017)

I don't think the Baldor has a field; green is probably ground.
So when you tested the scr from the mc2100 the light came on and stayed on when you removed the wire from the gate?  If so that's a successful test.
M


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## Jim Nunn (Jul 30, 2017)

I'm going on memory on this and this drive is a very old drive.  Which brings up a point electrics age capacitors dry out or short out.   Be mind full of this when you purchase old electronics even if its free it may not be worth the price.

As I remember these drives could be operated on 115 or 208/230 single phase.   The 4 terminals I believe were used to set the operating  voltage of the drive.  This was accomplished by switching jumpers on the primary of the small power supply  transformer for the control circuits.  So these terminals are not the AC input or the DC output .  It was common 30 years ago on small enclosed DC drives to connect the power leads directly to the fuse block or the power switch.  The Armature was often connected directly to the reversing switch.  if there is no terminal marked L1 /L2 or terminals marked A1/A2 or A-/A+  the power and DC output was most likely connected as described above.  

Again I am relying on my memory and could be wrong. 

if you use Google search the manual will show up but my virus checker lit up like a Christmas tree when I tried to down it.  Again from memory some of the Fincor DC drives were build by Dart controls which is still in business they may be able to help with a manual.

Good Luck


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## Lordbeezer (Jul 30, 2017)

Mark has been walking me through testing scr's and trouble shooting..scr's were bad.have one up and running for now..couldn't find manual for a 2301.found one for 2330 but totally different..called Galco ind. electronics.mark(a different mark)went in warehouse and dug out a manual and emailed to me..lots of info in the 4 pages..Thanks


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## Lordbeezer (Aug 5, 2017)

Have two controls working .replaced bad scr's with good ones removed from other controllers..thanks for all the help.Phil


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## markba633csi (Aug 6, 2017)

Jim: we traced out the circuit and found that on this model at least the power and motor both go to the terminal block and the little transformer is dedicated for 115 or 230v.
Field diode was optional on these- one extra diode off the breaker connection on the far end of the board.
Phil: good job! glad to hear
Mark


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