# Atlas mill home at last



## robert1352

Hi everyone the other day I finally got my little atlas horizontal mill home, I found on this little gem on craigslist for 200$.I want to disassembly my mill and give it a through cleaning but I have never taken something like this apart before. What sort of tools would be required to take it apart with out damaging it? Thanks everyone, Robert.


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## Uncle Buck

Basically ordinary hand tools is all recall using when I tore mine down. Congratulations and enjoy it.

I sent you a PM requesting your email address so I can send you the original manual for your machine.


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## robert1352

So today I started to take a long hard look at the mill, everything seems to ok with the exception one area. When I try to raise or lower the knee the handle dosent want to turn. I wont find out for sure what the problem is til I start taking it apart,any ideas as to what the problem is?


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## robert1352

No thats what I thought but I checked that first thing.


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## kd4gij

:worthless:


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## Uncle Buck

I would not worry about it for now, the problem will reveal itself once you get it home and dismantle it enough to get to the root of the problem.

So whats the story, do you want me to email you the manual for that machine or not? If you do give me an email address to send it. :whistle:


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## robert1352

Thanks for the offer but I forgot to mention I have a manual for the mill that I got from the seller, but thank you for your kind offer. I will start taking it apart later today and will try to post pictures as work progresses.


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Thanks for the offer but I forgot to mention I have a manual for the mill that I got from the seller, but thank you for your kind offer. I will start taking it apart later today and will try to post pictures as work progresses.



Good deal, so long as you have a copy of the manual. I found it a great asset in the restoration of my machine as you will too I am sure.


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## robert1352

Ok so here are the first pictures.Keep in mind that a lot of the brown on the mill is not rust but is in fact sawdust mixed with oil.The person who sold me the mill had used it for wood working.


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## kd4gij

Looks like a fun project.


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## robert1352

Alright I got started taking it apart this morning, I got the motor off as well as the table, haven’t found any problems so far.I'm going to need a lot of degreaser!!


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## robert1352

So now I have removed the back gear cover and the table feed mechanism. The gears seem in good shape, no broken teeth. I still haven’t gotten into the knee yet so I still haven’t resolved that problem. I did find one hex nut with the head sheared off; I will have to fix that later. See pics below.


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## Smudgemo

Cool!  I love this sort of stuff.  If you haven't tried it yet, I had really good results removing rust with Evapo-rust.  Should be perfect for the little bit your machine has.
-Ryan


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## wa5cab

Nine,

It's a horizontal mill.  Horizontal and vertical mills in the same size class can each do or do easily about 95% of what the other can do.

Robert D.


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## robert1352

Here are some views of the back cover of the mill with the gears. Also notice in the side view of the cover the "atlas change o matic" name plate is missing,not sure what to do about that.


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## cbtrek

Keep the photos coming!

I also enjoy cleaning up old equipment, the reward is putting it back together and having a new old machine again.


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## robert1352

Disassembley is going a little slow. I managed to get the gear plate off but still having problems with the knee,will try to post more pictures tomorrow.


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## robert1352

Did we loose a few pictures and post? Well anyway here is a picture of the mysterious item from the other day,it turns out it was a coolent pump. The pump does not look like it is in very good shape,and the way it was installed (duc taped wires!) leads  me to belive that it was an aftermarket deal.Trying to get the support arm to slide out but there is some rust so it is fighting me,put some oil around it and will let that soak in before I try again.


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## wa5cab

Robert,

Yes. Most of yesterday was lost.  The site went down and had to be restored from the most recent backup.

Robert D.


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Did we loose a few pictures and post? Well anyway here is a picture of the mysterious item from the other day,it turns out it was a coolent pump. The pump does not look like it is in very good shape,and the way it was installed (duc taped wires!) leads  me to belive that it was an aftermarket deal.Trying to get the support arm to slide out but there is some rust so it is fighting me,put some oil around it and will let that soak in before I try again.




This pump was like as not an original Atlas accessory. Atlas offered a pump, coolant tank and spray spiggot and a coolant holding tank that was a steel box that sat under the machine with hoses leading from the box to the pump. It would either be an original Atlas, or an aftermarket for that time but Atlas did offer pumps that looked just as this one does I can verify that for you. I would not toss that pump. 

The pump and coolant setup was an accessory to the machine too.


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## HalcyonDaze

robert1352 said:


> Trying to get the support arm to slide out but there is some rust so it is fighting me,put some oil around it and will let that soak in before I try again.



Mine was the same way.  Try loosening the lock screws up on top a turn or two, then tap them with a rubber mallet.  If they're stuck to the support arm this might break the bond.  Leave the arbor support on the end of the arm and use it for a grip to twist the arm while you pull it out.  Use plenty of penetrating oil.  It can be a workout.


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## robert1352

Good idea HalcyonDaze,I will give your method a try and post pictures later. I didnt see anything like a coolent tank in the mill,I guess they just filled up the base with coolent and didnt really have a tank. Well I'm not going to try to fix the pump,it dosent seem salvageable.


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Good idea HalcyonDaze,I will give your method a try and post pictures later. I didnt see anything like a coolent tank in the mill,I guess they just filled up the base with coolent and didnt really have a tank. Well I'm not going to try to fix the pump,it dosent seem salvageable.




I have one of the original Atlas sales/product books from somewhere in the 40's or so. Early enough that the milling machines they were selling then did not have the outboard arbor support but instead still offered the cast iron overarm cover which actually was much more pleasing to the eye but not nearly as benefitial to use of the machine as the outboard arbor support bar. Anyway, in that old book it showed an accessory add on that included the pump that looked as yours does, the coolant tank attached at the top of the machine, and I thought that the steel box with coolant hoses was supposed to set below the machine and work with the pump to provide the coolant flow. However, it has been a good year or more since I looked at that book and I would say that if the main body of the machine did not have holes in it's side where the hoses would have been fitted to work with the pump I would be wrong and the fluid simply sat in the main body of the machine with the pump. 

I would have already looked at the book but I loaned it to a fellow a year or so back that has been attempting to rebuild one of these old mills so I am just working off of my memory of what the pictures in the book showed. I do know that steel tank and hoses was also intended to be used with both the drill presses and lathes as well so my recollection of it's application to the mill might be foggy. The best proof would be holes in the side of the body casting of the machine which would indicate one was originally used with the mill. 

If you are not going to try to resurrect your pump I might be interested in buying that one from you and seeing if I could resurrect it myself. If interested in selling it PM me please.


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## arcotramathorn

That is a good looking Atlas and especially for the price. There is a guy around here trying to sell one on Craigslist for 500 but it is missing the entire motor and jack shaft assembly and the table feed gear box. Enjoy your new project, you got a good one!


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## Uncle Buck

arcotramathorn said:


> That is a good looking Atlas and especially for the price. There is a guy around here trying to sell one on Craigslist for 500 but it is missing the entire motor and jack shaft assembly and the table feed gear box. Enjoy your new project, you got a good one!




I just looked at it. Way out of line as you know, too much missing. That is a $200 machine tops, or better he should just part it out.


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## robert1352

So for today I managed to get the support arm off with a little oil and some twisting,see pics below.Uncle buck I will pm you about the coolent pump later tonight,got to get cleaned up.


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## robert1352

So now we have lost even more post! Well anyway last night I tried to get the arbor free but it doesn’t want to budge, so I oiled everything and let it soak in over night. Hopefully that will loosen something up. I dont know if I should  post any more picture because we keep losing them. The knee is still an issue.


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## Uncle Buck

Since posts keep getting lost I will make this far shorter than I originally did. If I can get it worked out would you be interested in duplicates of my belt and pulley guards cast out of aluminum at a local foundry? My biggest issue is getting them dropped off and  picked up during their working hours since I work out of town and cannot get there during regular working hours.


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## nik

This looks like a really fun project, makes me wish I had a mill.


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## robert1352

Uncle Buck said:


> Since posts keep getting lost I will make this far shorter than I originally did. If I can get it worked out would you be interested in duplicates of my belt and pulley guards cast out of aluminum at a local foundry? My biggest issue is getting them dropped off and  picked up during their working hours since I work out of town and cannot get there during regular working hours.




Are you talking about the guards for this atlas milling machine? Yes I would be intrested,Please send me pictures!!! ALso i will try to repost the lost picutes and submit a new update tonight as I almost have the knee off finally!


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## robert1352

These are some of the pictures that I think were lost when the sever reset.


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Are you talking about the guards for this atlas milling machine? Yes I would be intrested,Please send me pictures!!! ALso i will try to repost the lost picutes and submit a new update tonight as I almost have the knee off finally!



This is my machine, note the attached guards I speak of. The overarm cover/guard is not in the pictures but I have it too. 

MY LITTLE HORIZONTAL/VERTICLE ATLAS MILLING MACHINE


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## robert1352

Alright here are the pictures of the mill after I got the knee off.If you notice the arbor is still on so if anyone has any ideas about how to get that off let me know.


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## robert1352

Uncle Buck said:


> This is my machine, note the attached guards I speak of. The overarm cover/guard is not in the pictures but I have it too.
> 
> Yes I would really be intrested in getting some of those covers for my machine.


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## wa5cab

Robert,

There should be a drawbar running through the spindle from the rear, and screwed into the arbor.  If there is and if it is original it will have a long hex head on the back end.  The spindle nose is 2MT and the drawbar serves two purposes.  First, it prevents the arbor or tool holder from coming loose in the taper.  Second, you loosen it two or three turns and tap on the back end of it to break loose the arbor or holder.  There was also a retainer that screwed onto the spindle nose but as best I can tell from the small scale photos there isn't one present.  The nose of the drawbar is threaded 3/8-16 UNC.  If you don't have one, you need to get one.  But you can temporarly substitute a length of 3/8-16 all thread and a couple of hex nuts.

Robert D.


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## Uncle Buck

wa5cab said:


> Robert,
> 
> There should be a drawbar running through the spindle from the rear, and screwed into the arbor.  If there is and if it is original it will have a long hex head on the back end.  The spindle nose is 2MT and the drawbar serves two purposes.  First, it prevents the arbor or tool holder from coming loose in the taper.  Second, you loosen it two or three turns and tap on the back end of it to break loose the arbor or holder.  There was also a retainer that screwed onto the spindle nose but as best I can tell from the small scale photos there isn't one present.  The nose of the drawbar is threaded 3/8-16 UNC.  If you don't have one, you need to get one.  But you can temporarly substitute a length of 3/8-16 all thread and a couple of hex nuts.
> 
> Robert D.



Oh my, I thought he had already tried driving it out with the drawbar bolt. That would work so much better still mounted in the machine......


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Uncle Buck said:
> 
> 
> 
> This is my machine, note the attached guards I speak of. The overarm cover/guard is not in the pictures but I have it too.
> 
> Yes I would really be intrested in getting some of those covers for my machine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me see what I can get figured out. I suspect I will be able to get them cast cheaper than you could buy them elsewhere.
Click to expand...


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## robert1352

Yes I have a drawbar and have tried tapping it out,but I havent made any progress.I put some more oil in through the back and all around the base of the arbor,gonna let that soak in and try tapping on it some more.


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Yes I have a drawbar and have tried tapping it out,but I havent made any progress.I put some more oil in through the back and all around the base of the arbor,gonna let that soak in and try tapping on it some more.



it might take a few generous blows to get her moving on out!


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## wa5cab

Sorry.  Since you didn't mention the drawbar when you asked about getting the arbor out I assumed it was MIA.

Besides penetrating oil, one other thing you might try if there is enough room is to use a 3-jaw puller to pretension the drawbar.  You may need to chuck the drawbar in your lathe and cut a minimum center in the hex end to keep the puller centered.  

And a bag of crushed dry ice wrapped around the arbor may help.

Robert D.


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## cbtrek

If you use Dry Ice, be very careful.


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## robert1352

You know after I got the knee off last night I took a look in it and as far as I can tell the gears look to be in good shape so untill I have it completely taking apart I still cant tell what was wrong with the knee. I have noticed that I am missing two of the sheet metal chip guards.


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## Uncle Buck

If you can easily remount the spindle and arbor back to the machine I still believe that would be the best path to take. Maybe you just didn't give the drawbar a hard enough blow?  You are loosening the drawbar from the arbor and unscrewing it a couple of turns before hitting it aren't you? :thinking:


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## robert1352

Some pictures of how the knee dissambley is going, its almost completely apart now and I never found out what was wrong with it.
I am going to let the arbor sit a while longer, its still not budging.


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## robert1352

I was thinking if I cant get that arbor off by tapping it out I was thining that I might just take off the whole head and soaking it in motor oil just to losen everything up. Does that sound like a good idea or not?


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> I was thinking if I cant get that arbor off by tapping it out I was thining that I might just take off the whole head and soaking it in motor oil just to losen everything up. Does that sound like a good idea or not?



If you are going to soak it, use transmission fluid instead.


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## arcotramathorn

Since the mill is small enough, I would set it horizontal so that the arbor is vertical with the drawbar hole facing up. Mix up a batch of 50/50 acetone and ATF then flood the spindle with the mix so it can penetrate in the taper. If that doesn't work and you are in my position, take the whole spindle and arbor out and press the arbor out with a shop press.


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## ScubaSteve

I had the same problem with a MUCH larger mill (K&T 2BS)....the taper was a BS11 so it had a lot of contact with the spindle taper. I tried everything but what finally did it was Kroil sprayed into the front and back of the arbor. Heat very gently with a propane torch...then repeat. Do that a few times and you might have some success...be careful not to damage anything with heat/force.


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## Restorer

I have had the same issue from time to time with the Morse Taper #2 sticking very well in the spindle.

Measure the spindle I.D. and cut off a piece of barstock with a diameter that will just slip inside.
The overall length should just stick out by 1/2 inch or so.  Face the end that will contact toe arbor.

Setup the over arm support just starting on the arbor to be a "Catchers Mitt".

I don't like doing this because its hard on the bearings.  Use a hammer with a 4 + Lb. head and hit the rod a firm blow.  The arbor will come out.

When reinstalling the arbor in the future wipe oil on to the taper inside and out.  This will help prevent the SUPER STICKING.

For future reference if more than a tap on the draw bar dosn't free the arbor use the knock out rod.
Draw bar threads are easily damaged.

Good luck.  These are nice machines and work well.


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## robert1352

Ok so no new pictures today I used some transsmission fluid and im letting it soak in. will let you know.


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## robert1352

Ok so no luck with the overnight soak,the arbor is still in there but good!!The idea of taking the whole head off and just saking everything is starting to sound more like the next step to me unless anyone has anymore suggestions. Thanks all.


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## kd4gij

I would take the cutter and spacers off the spindle. Get a pice of pipe that fits over the spindle cut to lingth a large washer and use the nut to jack it out. Hope that makes scence


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## robert1352

So I let the transmisson fluidl soak in overnight,still not budging. Is the nut on the end of the arbor a right hand nut or a left hand? The reason I ask is because I have tried everything to get that off as well and its not going anywhere. Below are pictures of the arbor  and the various parts laid out,enjoy!!


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## kd4gij

I never have had one but it should be right hand thread. should be able to tell by the threads showing. look at the start of the threads.


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## robert1352

Well I finally did manage to get the nut holding the spacers and cutter off. Right now ,I have some ice wraped around the arbor. If that doesnt work I might give the dry ice idea a try.


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## Uncle Buck

OK, Try this. Right behind the collar of the arbor, the part of the arbor that is the larger diameter of the shaft that you see on the left side of your picture. Figure out a way to hold the threaded part of the spindle captive, that is the threaded portion to the left of that larger diameter collar, even if it is nothing more than having another guy hold that threaded part of the spindle captive. Then take a hammer (deadblow would be best, or lead or brass hammer) then strike the back side of that larger diameter collar. This would be striking from the threaded side of the spindle. Hopefully, the arbor will then break free of the spindle. I might even take a few VERY CAREFUL WACKS on the outside of the collar to see if that might help break it free as well if stiking the back side alone does not do the job. 

Below your picture is an image of a new arbor to help figure out what I am trying to say if my description alone does not seem clear. The collar I am speaking of is seen on the right hand side of the second image right in front of the MT. If you have access to the right sized bearing splitter you might also try that as well between the end of the threads and the back side of the arbor collar. Be careful and make sure not to bugger up the end of your spindle threads though. I am virtually positive a bearing splitter will do what you want if there is enough room for you to get the knife edges of the splitter beween the end of the spindle and the back side of that arbor collar. 

BTW: When the time comes that you finally get that mess apart and you want to replace the old spindle bearings, you DO NOT have to buy those from Clausing or Sears. I found that my bearings were standard sizes and I was able to source them fairly cheap from my local bearing house. All I did was take my old bearings in and they measured and matched them. I bought the best quality name brand bearings I could and they didn't cost too much. I am sure they were much cheaper than if I had sourced those through Clausing.


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## robert1352

Thanks Uncle buck I think im going to give your idea a try. By the way I think that coolent pump made it to its destination today.


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## Uncle Buck

Super on the pump. I will get square with you for the shipping and the pump. I have not had a chance to do anything with the guards yet. I am all but positive the bearing separator idea will work. If you need to you might rent one if you or a buddy do not have one of sufficient size. I suppose you could buy a cheapie HF one that might work as well. I have several, but they are costly new. I would offer to send mine to you but the shipping alone would likely rent one if need be. I have my fingers crossed for you bud!


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## robert1352

You are right Uncle buck I think I can rent one from autozone. Can anyone suggest a good degresaser,I have been using purple power with pretty good results, just wondering if there is something better.I will try to get some more picuters up this weekend Thanks Robert.


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## Uncle Buck

When you get the splitter fitted where you need it and begin drawing the pressure up on the nuts/bolts of the splitter (which will cause the splitter to tighten around the assembly) you might stop midway and give that collar I keep speaking of a few raps around it's circumference. Sometimes the combination of the splitter applying force to separate the parts and the shock of the hammer blow working in combination will be enough to cause the two parts to pop apart. The tighter you go with the splitter the more frequently I would stop and give a few raps. I would also try to work some silicone or something like that into that joint as well. 

Make sure the drawbar has been removed too because you want to know that is in no way holding you up.


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Thanks Uncle buck I think im going to give your idea a try. By the way I think that coolent pump made it to its destination today.



Yes it did arrive. A short was found and the bad wires were replaced. My pardner also greased the bearings then cleaned it up like new and gave it a fresh coat of black paint. He did say something about the innerds looking really old though and made no guarantee how long it might work until further deterioration finally takes the old girl out. I am not looking forward to dismantling half of my mill to install it though I will admit!

Here was what Ray did with it Robert. 

[quote author=goodfellow link=action=profile;u=5 date=1364507413]

















All cleaned up and ready for assembly and final testing 


[/quote]

- - - Updated - - -



robert1352 said:


> You are right Uncle buck I think I can rent one from autozone. Can anyone suggest a good degresaser,I have been using purple power with pretty good results, just wondering if there is something better.I will try to get some more picuters up this weekend Thanks Robert.



Maybe Simple Green? Or possibly kerosene?


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## robert1352

Wow! Your friend looks like he knows what he is doing! Keep me updated!!


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## Uncle Buck

Ray is an incredibly gifted and talented guy. He posts a number of threads and topics on my site about various projects (a wide range) that he works on many of which are electrical testing equipment and the like so I was sure that unless this thing was absolutely dead Ray would be able to bring it back to life. I was surprised he did all that the same day he got it. Sort of makes me feel like a butt dragger compared to him! Had it been me I likely would have tossed it on the bench and waited till the weekend to mess with it.

So have you gotten the bearing splitter yet?


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## robert1352

Not yet ,I will have time this weekend to make another attempt at getting the arbor off. After seeing how much your friend got done in one afternoon',I also feel like I need to get a move on with this project LOL. One thing I have noticed about my mill is that for some reason parts of it were painted orange. I dont think you can tell in any of the pictures I have posted so far but trust me,under all the grease and grime on the knee its orange! What color are they supose to be by the way?


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## Uncle Buck

I think Atlas used several shades of gray through the years but I could be wrong on that. I am not so sure at some point some almost military shades of green might have been used as well. The machine was also sold through Sears at some point as well and I suspect at least some of those might have been like a navy blue color because some of the Atlas lathes sold through Sears were blue during a time at least I think during perhaps the 1940's. If I saw something like orange I would suspect the machine came out of either a school, or possibly a state institution such as a prison or highway department because I bought an old Atlas shaper with a lot of nasty orange on it through the state surplus some years back. Many times I have seen that nasty orange when touring government and institutional settings. That explains my thoughts on this.


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## kd4gij

The orange my be primer.


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## Uncle Buck

kd4gij said:


> The orange my be primer.



The orange I was speaking of was not primer, though I get what you are saying.


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## robert1352

Well everything I have tried so far has yielded no results. Discouraged is the word of the day. I’m starting to wonder if the stupid thing isn’t wielded on there.


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Well everything I have tried so far has yielded no results. Discouraged is the word of the day. I’m starting to wonder if the stupid thing isn’t wielded on there.



You tried a bearing splitter and still no luck? Heat might be all you have left.........


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## Restorer

Any one have a PARTS Machine?  I am missing the original pulleys from Motor to Jack Shaft & Belt guard?   .....


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## HalcyonDaze

Restorer said:


> Any one have a PARTS Machine?  I am missing the original pulleys from Motor to Jack Shaft & Belt guard?   .....



Those are rare and pricey.  I patiently hunted on ebay and one finally showed up, attached to an Atlas 1/2 hp motor!  Paid a small fortune for it, but now have a slightly more powerful mill (the motor barely fit).

I chucked up my arbor yesterday and drew it in and was alarmed at how much force was neeeded to knock it back out.  If I were in your shoes, I'd find a long grade 8 or similar hardened bolt that will bottom out in the drawbar and whale on it with a small sledge.  Sometimes a single blow with something bigger is better than many blows with something light.  The drawbar is designed so that its threads and the threads in the arbor take the impact.  You want a bolt that has enough threads to bottom out in the arbor, allowing the bottom of the threaded hole to take the impact.  After yesterday's experience, I think I'll make one just for knocking out the arbor and use the drawbar just for drawing in.

The rear spindle bearing will likely get ruined from all this impacting, if it's not already.  It might help to hold another sledge hammer on the opposite face of the mill head, just above the arbor, to absorb impact.


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## Uncle Buck

Restorer said:


> Any one have a PARTS Machine?  I am missing the original pulleys from Motor to Jack Shaft & Belt guard?   .....



When I restored my machine I needed original pulleys too. The only place I found them was ebay. I might be having some of those guards cast out of aluminum and selling some of them here shortly.


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## robert1352

Well still no luck getting the arbor out, but as you can see from the pictures below I have taken the rest of the mill apart. Hopefully this will make the job of cleaning and painting much easier.Boy oh boy there was a lot of grease and grime in there!!! Im also going to need to replace the gaskets,any ideas on that?


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## Uncle Buck

So you never said, did you try a bearing separator?

- - - Updated - - -

I have an actual Atlas drive belt like you show in the above picture that never did fit my machine that I never sent back for refund. Hopfully it is correct for your machine. If you want it I will send it to you free. I bought it from Clausing and it was supposed to be correct.


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## cbtrek

robert1352 said:


> Well still no luck getting the arbor out, but as you can see from the pictures below I have taken the rest of the mill apart. Hopefully this will make the job of cleaning and painting much easier.Boy oh boy there was a lot of grease and grime in there!!! Im also going to need to replace the gaskets,any ideas on that?




Make your own. You can order material from McMaster Carr.


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## HalcyonDaze

Gaskets?  I don't think there are any.


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## robert1352

No I didnt try the bearing separator idea,the autozone near me is out of stock. Im going to have to come up with something else.


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> No I didnt try the bearing separator idea,the autozone near me is out of stock. Im going to have to come up with something else.



You are making a mistake, there is no substitute for a bearing separator. As for gaskets, my machine didn't have any either. Order a separator online from harbor freight and try that. And do you want the belt?


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## robert1352

Well the more I look at the parts the more it seems like it’s just congealed grease and grim left over from 40 or so years and not the remains of some  gaskets.


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## HalcyonDaze

I agree with Uncle Buck.  You really need to put the arbor and spindle into tension before you strike them anymore.


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## robert1352

So autozone did not have a bearing splitter,the guy at pep boys didnt even know what a bearing splitter was so now im wondering if there is some way I could make a gear puller work.Any input would be welcome as I really havent done much of anything else to the mill since this problem with the stuck arbor is holding up my progress.


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> So autozone did not have a bearing splitter,the guy at pep boys didnt even know what a bearing splitter was so now im wondering if there is some way I could make a gear puller work.Any input would be welcome as I really havent done much of anything else to the mill since this problem with the stuck arbor is holding up my progress.



No puller will do this job. What makes a bearing splitter so uniquely qualified to do this job is the fact that with it's knife edges it is made to slide into very narrow gaps (like you have between the end of the spindle and the beginning of the arbor) when you start tightening each bolt of the bearing separator it draws those thin knife edges deeper into that narrow crack/space where the spindle and arbor meet. As the splitter is tightened it acts like a wedge and forces the two pieces apart that are stuck together. Don't forget, tighten each bolt a turn or two, then use your hammer to give it a few raps to see if that won't help it pop while it is under preassure from the bearing separator. 

PM me your mailing address and I will send you my bearing splitter to use. I will also send you the extra new v belt I bought for my machine that never fit it too. The belt may not fit your machine either but if it does, you are that much ahead; if not. then you have a belt you can't use either. UPDATE: As I look at your pictures closer I think the belt I have will fit your machine. I noticed 2 steps on your spindle belt pulley hanging on the countershaft. My machine has 3 steps which I think makes it older than your machine. When they changed the design and went to 2 steps on the pulley I think the pulley grooves were made widere than mine meaning the belt I have will I think work fine for your machine which would be great news. 

In the first pictures you posted there was a little cast iron bracket bolted to the housing of your mill right above the window where the belt enters the machine. I noticed in later pictures you removed that part. Did you happen to keep that little part? That was the hanger for the original Atlas coolant pot and spiggot that at one time was used with the pump you sent my way. If you did not toss it would you consider selling that part?


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## Dave Smith

Hi  I'm wondering if you got your arbor out of the spindle yet?  I looked at mine and I'm wondering why I see all those spindle threads showing on yours--doesn't your arbor have two slots on end to slide into a driver end with two pins?   mine has a spindle nut  collar that threads on my spindle so I can't see any threads exposed like on yours. How about yours Uncle Buck, I cant tell from your shinny pictures of your arbor if it has slots in the end collar--does your arbhor have two collar slots on taper end ?    it must have them to keep the arbor from spinning in the taper.  Dave in Minnesota ---  I've enjoyed reading this forum ---I just had an idea--If your arbor has the slots then take a spanner wrench and give good quick hammer hits from one direction (left or right) and then give it a quick hit from the other direction--this should maybe break the taper free enough to try again on your drawbar   If you don't understand this--I can take pictures of mine and post them


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## Dave Smith

I just looked back at Uncle Bucks mill and his has the driver collar on his spindle threads also like mine--now it is making since why yours is so tight--It probably spun in the taper and maybe galled up or owner put some type of seize liquid to keep it from slipping and over tightened the drawbar---if that was the case then use some anti seize penetrating fluid and then try the side taps on the spanner wrench when you have some outer tension with the bearing puller     ---I have a question for Uncle Buck--does your vertical head have up and down travel or do you have to use your vertical axis of your mill for the height adjustment?      Dave


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## robert1352

No Dave Smith my arbor does not have any groves near the collar. Im going to stop by a wallmart tomorrow and see if I can pick up a bearing splitter like Uncle Buck suggest,I couldnt belive they didnt have one at autozone! If that doset work I will give the anti seize fluid a try,im like you I think the previous owner probably way overtightened it. Im afraid to use too much force when tapping on the drawbar because I have read on other sites that atlas used some brittle pot iron for there castings. Yes Uncle Buck I would like the v-pulley belt,thank you for your kind offer.By the way please tell your friend to post pictures of the finished pump!!


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## Uncle Buck

You are correct, my machine does have the same threaded collar with the two little dogs that lock the arbor in and keep it from spinning. Robert, Wal-Mart will not have a bearing splitter. If you don't want to borrow mine why not just buy one on-line? Harbor Freight will carry cheap ones. In honesty, bearing splitters are not something you will find at regular hdw stores or big box stores for that matter. Industrial supply stores serving industry or well stocked stores dedicated to selling nothing but tools will generally have bearing splitters. I would not expect to find one at Sears either. Where you find bearing splitters sold you can bet it will be a very well stocked tool supply store.

I will send you the belt once you PM me your mailing address. You might want to rethink borrowing my splitter. Unless you buy one from Harbor Freight a bearing splitter will be expensive for a one time use, likely $40 or close to it. It might be Monday before I can get pictures of the pump up. Also, once you get that thing separated I think I have an extra drive nut I can give you too which should prevent this from happening again. In fact, I will mail it with the belt.


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## Dave Smith

I would think NAPA stores would have bearing splitter--or if you just take your head in they could press it out easily.  I will send pics of my mill head and arbor--you may have to cut two slots in your arbor to use the correct spindle nut.   Dave


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## Uncle Buck

Dave, I agree Robert should be able to get a bearing splitter at NAPA, but I think pressing that affair apart on a press might prove more difficult. Robert cannot remove the spindle and and arbor from the body of the machine as those parts are held captive due to their being joined. If for that reason alone I don't see a press fixing this problem. Actually, Robert could probably buy a bearing splitter as a special order from virtually anyplace like O'Reilly, ETC. If he can find a counter man that is not an absolute boob and knows how to use his store catalogs he could likely get one special ordered. Or, as I said, he could save a bunch of money on a tool he will likely never have need for again and *borrow mine*!


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## Uncle Buck

*Here is the initial message upon re-assembly that Ray sent.
*
[quote author=goodfellow link=action=profile;u=5 date=1364587103]
I finished it up this afternoon Herb. As expected, the motor itself it's a bit tired when you apply the pump load of the impeller to move fluid, but it grudgingly does the job. The biggest problem is the motor itself. The field windings are starting to crack and will most likely short within a few years of use. Also the bearings have a lot of play so I'd be careful running it in the upside down position, it will make noise. That said, I ran the motor for 15 minutes straight sitting in the vertical position and it hummed along quite nicely.
The biggest problem encountered was centering and balancing the pump impeller. The previous owner had it apart, but I suspect that he didn't assemble it correctly because the impeller was wobbling on the shaft and scraping the pump housing, so if you need to take the pump portion apart for future maintenance make sure you witness mark the pieces to ensure they go back together in the same way. 
Here are the pics of the finished product -- 






Please send me you current address, so that I can get it out to you next week.
Take care, and Happy Easter to you and your family.
Ray 
[/quote]

*This was a followup Ray sent a short time later. 

*Just a quick note -- I wasn't too happy with the coolant flow on this pump so on a hunch I flipped the impeller inside the pump. Wow!!!! Now we have coolant flow. The damn thing could pump my 20 gal parts washer dry in minutes. 
I'm betting that the previous owner took it apart or purchased it from someone who didn't know how to put it together, because the impeller definitely was put in wrong. Here's a pic of the flow inside the parts washer -- 


You should be good to go. Unfortunately, though a few drops of solvent hit the new paint and ruined the finish in one small spot. You can mask it and repaint it yourself when you get the time -- 
[/quote]


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## robert1352

Sorry I havent had a chance to get on the net till now,I went to two more auto parts places today and like before one guy said he didnt even know what a bearing splitter was and the other guy at least tried to look up what I was talking about on the computer but still no luck. Uncle Buck I will send you my mailing adress in the nest few minutes so check you inbox. Dave as to your idea about using an arbor press I thought of that as well but after talking to others it seems like that isnt the best way to solve this problem,but thank you for the advice. Uncke Buck im going to talk to my neighbor when I see him cutting his grass in the next day or two he and his dad like to work on trucks so im going to ask him if he hass a splitter if that fails I might just take you up on your offer to borrow your splitter. And just to let you guys know I have some of the parts soaking in degreaser and I got some pant stripper,so I am making some head way. I do have one about how my knee works.Im going to take some pictures ,there is a rack on the main casting but,maybe im missing a gear but it dosent seem to connect to anything.I know that might be a hard to follow question so like I said I will post some pictures to better illustrate my question.Thanks everyone Robert.


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## robert1352

Alright,so here are the pictures I was talking about in the last post. Notice in the first picture I have the rack circled,and the second picture is the back side of the knee that I removed. My question is shoudnt there something that is supose to connect to the rack and the knee?  Is it possible I have miss matched castings?


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## HalcyonDaze

That rack is part of the knee elevating mechanism for the MHC model.  The MFC model used the knee elevating screw.  Apparently your machine started life as a MHC then was converted.  I think the MHC was used for production work where the same operation was repeated over and over, such as in a factory setting where the machine was making the same part all day long (these machines were used in WWII as part of the war effort).  The MFC version (which yours has been converted to) is a much better machine for the kind of work we do.

If you've got a manual, there are pictures and exploded drawings of the different types to give you an understanding.

Those parts have nice scrape marks on the mating surfaces.  Your machine seems to have little wear, at least on the knee.


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## robert1352

Thanks for clearing that up for me HalcyonDaze,when I first noticed that rack I thought I must have misplaced some parts or something. Yes the scraping marks are all very visable so I guess this particular machine was never used in a shop. As far as how work is progressing, untill I can get the arbor out im just going to work on stripping paint. I will post some pictures either later today or tomorrow to show my progress.


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Thanks for clearing that up for me HalcyonDaze,when I first noticed that rack I thought I must have misplaced some parts or something. Yes the scraping marks are all very visable so I guess this particular machine was never used in a shop. As far as how work is progressing, untill I can get the arbor out im just going to work on stripping paint. I will post some pictures either later today or tomorrow to show my progress.



Hang tight, I will see if I can get help pointed your way tomorrow Robert!


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## robert1352

Just looking at the pictures of the finished coolant pump,wow I can't belive what a good job your friend did Uncle Buck!!


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Just looking at the pictures of the finished coolant pump,wow I can't belive what a good job your friend did Uncle Buck!!



He did a smashing job. Like I said before, Ray is an incredibly gifted and talented individual. Speaking of that pump, you have one remaining part that originally went with the coolant system. There was a small cast iron bracket that was bolted to the side of the machine right above the window where the belt enters the body of the machine. I noticed in the pictures that you removed that bracket. I would be interested in buying that bracket from you if possible.


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## robert1352

Thats right Uncle Buck I remeber now, there was a bracket. I will go downstairs and find it for you today.I will put up a picture or two to make sure its the right one then I will pm you. ALso I will put up a picture or two of how the paint stripping is going.


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## Uncle Buck

No need to put up a picture. I knew exactly what that bracket was the moment I saw it!


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## robert1352

So today I started to get serious about stripping off the old paint. I thought I would start with a couple of small parts. I’m using Jasco premium paint stripper, it seems to work quite well if you apply it in thick coats. Looks like the motor mount is made of bronze.


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## Uncle Buck

Now isn't that interesting!


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## robert1352

I thought the whole thing was supose to be cast iron !?!


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## stevecmo

I'll bet is IS cast iron.  I have some lathe parts that cleaned up like that.  Put a magnet on it.

Steve


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> I thought the whole thing was supose to be cast iron !?!



I thought mine was. I would have bet my life it was cast iron!


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## robert1352

So today I started stripping the paint off of the base. When I get it cleaned up a bit I will post a picture, i'm letting the paint remover sit on there for a bit so not much to see right now.


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## Uncle Buck

I rounded up the bearing splitter and drive nut for the arbor. I will mail these out tomorrow. I will have to find the new belt I promised you. I could not find it tonight but I know it is out there. I will look around until I do find it for you!


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## robert1352

Thank you so much Uncle Buck you are a life saver!! To the person who suggested that I try to a magnet on the motor mount to see if it really is bronze; I tried to stick a magnet to the part and it would not hold. So I guess that pretty much means that is is bronze.The paint stripping is going well enough that I might have a new picture or two to post later on this evening.


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## robert1352

Well stripping the paint off the base is taking a little longer than I had hoped but it is still progressing. A word to the wise,when using this stripper make sure you are wearing eye protection and gloves. Also, dont inadvertely scratch your forearm with this stuff still on your glove,it really burns,LOL!!!


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## CluelessNewB

robert1352 said:


> To the person who suggested that I try to a magnet on the motor mount to see if it really is bronze; I tried to stick a magnet to the part and it would not hold. So I guess that pretty much means that is is bronze.



I would bet money that that is not original, most likely cast as a replacement for a broken mount.  Since bronze can be cast at significantly lower temperatures it could have been done in a small backyard foundry.  The little ear that holds the adjustment bolt is a weak point.  The one on the Atlas MF that I have was broken when I got it.  I did find a replacement.  Sorry to say my MF is disassembled and has been that way for about a year, too many projects.


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## Uncle Buck

CluelessNewB said:


> I would bet money that that is not original, most likely cast as a replacement for a broken mount.  Since bronze can be cast at significantly lower temperatures it could have been done in a small backyard foundry.  The little ear that holds the adjustment bolt is a weak point.  The one on the Atlas MF that I have was broken when I got it.  I did find a replacement.  Sorry to say my MF is disassembled and has been that way for about a year, too many projects.



That sounds logical to me. I thought all the parts were cast iron myself.

Robert, make sure and check your PM's


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## robert1352

Ok so still working on getting the paint off the bottom of the base,but now I have gotten most of the paint off of the knee. Its intresting that you say that about how the mount might have been a replacment since another poster suggested that my mill might have started out as a MHC model and then converted to a MFC.


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## robert1352

So uncle Buck was kind enough to let me borrow a bearing spitter,and I have been working with it off and on today. Sadly,  I have as yet had no luck in removing the jammed arbor. I will work with it some more and post a picture or two. On the plus side the paint stripping is going nicely.


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> So uncle Buck was kind enough to let me borrow a bearing spitter,and I have been working with it off and on today. Sadly,  I have as yet had no luck in removing the jammed arbor. I will work with it some more and post a picture or two. On the plus side the paint stripping is going nicely.



Man, really?? I was just sure that 5 minutes of using that splitter and you would get them cracked apart.


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> So uncle Buck was kind enough to let me borrow a bearing spitter,and I have been working with it off and on today. Sadly,  I have as yet had no luck in removing the jammed arbor. I will work with it some more and post a picture or two. On the plus side the paint stripping is going nicely.



Did you remember to rap the side of the arbor with a hammer once you had applied a good amount of pressure to the bearing splitter? Also, I would not discount emplying something like Kroil or PB Blaster or silicone as well while doing this. If none of that works I think the only option that will remain for you would involve a torch and heating tip I suppose. You look to be fast running out of options too me.


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## robert1352

Uncle Buck i'm going to work with it somemore tomorrow,after that I will get you bearing splittter back in the mail to you.Ill let you know.


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Uncle Buck i'm going to work with it somemore tomorrow,after that I will get you bearing splittter back in the mail to you.Ill let you know.



I am not in a fizz. Use the splitter as long as you need to. It has just been hanging in my puller cabinet anyway so really there is no big  hurry.


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## Uncle Buck

Since the splitter did not work how I have another idea. First, you will need to figure out a way to hold the spindle captive. The greatest risk I see with this new idea is if you cannot find a way to secure the spindle you might run the risk of cracking the cast housing of the machine which would be REALLY REALLY BAD. Now that I have that out of the way, secure the headstock. Next, thread a bolt or piece of all thread into the end of the arbor at the outboard end. Working off of that thread rig up some sort of combination of threaded devices that wil get you from whatever size that is to a thread that you can connect to the end of a slide hammer. Next you will literally hammer the poo out of the whole thing to break them apart. Doing this in conjunction with some carefully applied torch heat where the MT of the sarbor enters the spindle would likely help as well. If you decide against this method then I have two more ideas on how to break it all apart. EDIT: Another thought here would be to secure the arbor which would be easier gripped with the hands and use the slide hammer on the backside (drawbar end) of the spindle. 

To my thinking the next option would be torch heat. If you are not comfortable doing this I would take the whole thing to a good welding shop in your area. A guy that is good with a torch can apply heat to the assembly and the arbor should break free of the spindle due to expansion and contraction of the steel once the heat is applied. To me heat is a last resort because of the detrimental effect it will likely have on the parts heated. I would sacrifice the arbor before the spindle if given a choice. A new arbor will cost around $100 if you cannot find a used one. But then, who knows; you might still be able to salvage the arbor once it has been broken loose. 

I would have the greatest amount of heat centered on the arbor for sure though. If that fails or you do not like that idea the very last idea I have to offer would be cut the arbor in half at the end of the spindle. Next begin drilling successively larger holes into and through the center of the remaining part of the arbor, the MT that is buried in the spindle. Keep drilling larger and larger holes. Stop short of drilling into the inside walls of the spindle. Next take a piece of round stock just a few thousands shy of the ID bore of the spindle and run it through the back of the spindle and seat it against the back of what used to be the old arbor shaft MT. Take BFH and beat the end of the shaft until you finally drive the remains of the old arbor out of the spindle. 

None of the options I outlined above are desireable, but that is where you now are. If none of those plans can or will work then I am out of ideas for you. I would rather have the parts out and the ability to make progress on my project than stuck like you are right now. I would hate to have to desrtoy the arbor to get you there, but it might just have to be the way.

Notice the arbors for sale here http://www.tools4cheap.net/products.php?id=16 if you had to destroy and replace yours. Destrying the spindle instead of the arbor would be a much less desireable alternative to me.


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## kd4gij

Looking at the manuel it looks like the spindle comes out of the front. I would pull it out and put the bearing splitter on it and use a press.


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## Uncle Buck

kd4gij said:


> Looking at the manuel it looks like the spindle comes out of the front. I would pull it out and put the bearing splitter on it and use a press.



Nope, it does not come out the front of the machine. At the end of the spindle threads there is a collar that is all one part of the spindle with a larger OD that that of the hole it would have to pass through. So, the arbor must be removed first, then the spindle removed from the back side of the body of the machine.


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## kd4gij

Ok this is what I was looking at


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## Uncle Buck

kd4gij said:


> Ok this is what I was looking at




Yes, part M1-31 the spindle. I was looking at the same manual. To be proof positive I will look at my Atlas mill and reply back tonight, but I am pretty sure that spindle has to go back through the housing and not through that hole. But I will check and reply back tonight.


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## robert1352

Well thanks everyone for your helpful suggestions about the stuck arbor. I will continue to strip off the paint and do what I can, but honestly I’m not sure the project can go forward from this point. I will continue to take pictures along the way but I will only post if I make some headway and actually have something worth showing.Thanks again everyone.


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Well thanks everyone for your helpful suggestions about the stuck arbor. I will continue to strip off the paint and do what I can, but honestly I’m not sure the project can go forward from this point. I will continue to take pictures along the way but I will only post if I make some headway and actually have something worth showing.Thanks again everyone.



Sure your project can move forward Robert. I gave you three more ways you can approach your problem earlier today. In the very worst case you would destroy the arbor and have to buy a new one for about $100. Just hang in there bud. Persistence and determination are the keys to success on deals like this. It is simply two parts of a machine, some way, somehow, you can get them separated!


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## cbtrek

Two arbors and more with $100 to start?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261202050311&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1120


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## cbtrek

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261202050335&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1120

Atlas Milling Machine Vertical Mill Attachment with Extras


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## Uncle Buck

Boy I would like me some of that!


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## robert1352

Is that a vertical head in the second picture??


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Is that a vertical head in the second picture??



So it says, but I have no clue how you would adapt that for an Atlas. :thinking:


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## robert1352

Thats what I was thinking Uncle Buck,I know there were vertical heads made for these mills but im not sure how that one would attach to the front of my mill. I think a company named marvin use to make vertical heads for the atlas mill as an after market addon,but I dont think they looked like that.


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## kd4gij

robert1352 said:


> Thats what I was thinking Uncle Buck,I know there were vertical heads made for these mills but im not sure how that one would attach to the front of my mill. I think a company named marvin use to make vertical heads for the atlas mill as an after market addon,but I dont think they looked like that.



My gues is the mt taper goes in the spindle the sleave with 2 setscrews goes on the over ram and that is the draw bar end.


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## robert1352

If it is a marvin head then its worth a lot more than 100$ thats for sure. From what I have read marvin vertical heads are very rare indeed. Maybe he will post some more pictures of the head so we can get a better look.


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## iron man

As my Dad use to say it did not grow together it can be taken apart usually you can warm the spindle up with a torch in the area it is stuck the hotter the better but be mind full of whats going on and what your doing. Then quench it with water the rapid expansion and contraction will break the bond of the rust. I have used this method for 25+ years and it never has done me wrong. Ray


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Thats what I was thinking Uncle Buck,I know there were vertical heads made for these mills but im not sure how that one would attach to the front of my mill. I think a company named marvin use to make vertical heads for the atlas mill as an after market addon,but I dont think they looked like that.



Marvin was the name of the original aftermarket vert head attachment for the Atlas Horizontal mill. In recent years the price of a complete and functional Marvin head was generally higher than the cost of most Atlas milling machines; they were just that high. However, a couple years or so back some small new upstart/machine shop knowing the desireability of the old Marvin attachment began offering spot on new replacements that were/are virtually identical to the origianl Marvin head. They were not cheap, but they were/are new, and vitually the same as the old highly coveted and priced Marvin attachments but at considerably less than the price of the old Marvin Heads. I have no idea if these are still currently being marketed and manufactured, if they are I suppose a simple google search would find them. The Marvin Vertical head was not the only product the Marvin company made though. As I recall they also made a slotter that was an aftermarket accessory for the Atlas 7B metal shaper as I recall.



kd4gij said:


> My gues is the mt taper goes in the spindle the sleave with 2 setscrews goes on the over ram and that is the draw bar end.



I too noticed the taper, but for the life of me I cannot see how what is shown could be used as a vertical attachment for an Atlas milling machine.


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## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> If it is a marvin head then its worth a lot more than 100$ thats for sure. From what I have read marvin vertical heads are very rare indeed. Maybe he will post some more pictures of the head so we can get a better look.




That is definetely not a Marvin head, I am sure of that. The Marvin was not driven diectly from the spindle. A pulley was screwed to the end of the spindle andd the Marvin was fitted directly to the overarm. An additional attachment that had 2 pulleys and a pulley on the top of the Marvin head all worked together and were driven by a v belt that rode over the pulleys and was driven by the spindle spindle pulley provided the power that spun the Marvin head. The Marvin head did have a downside in that as I recall it would only accept tooling up to 3/8" in diameter.

One thing in that picture I would very much like to have is that old shell mill. The mount that it is secured to screws right to the end of the spindle. That is an original Atlas accessory and one that I think is found only rarely.

- - - Updated - - -



iron man said:


> As my Dad use to say it did not grow together it can be taken apart usually you can warm the spindle up with a torch in the are it is stuck the hotter the better but be mind full of whats going on and what your doing. Then quench it with water the rapid expansion and contraction will break the bond of the rust. I have used this method for 25+ years and it never has done me wrong. Ray



I agree, I too believe that this would get the two separated, though I would not be wild about excess heat robbing my sindle or arbor of hardness/integrety. However, Robert has tried just about everything else and this would be one of the last remaining viable options to getting this apart. :whiteflag:


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## robert1352

I did a quick internet search for small machine shops close to where I live. I found one that isn’t to far so I am going to stop by there Monday and see if they would use there arbor press to press it out for me. I know about the possible risk, but like Uncle Buck stated I have tried just about everything. I will try to get some more pictures up of the paint stripping process.


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## cbtrek

Uncle Buck said:


> Marvin was the name of the original aftermarket vert head attachment for the Atlas Horizontal mill. In recent years the price of a complete and functional Marvin head was generally higher than the cost of most Atlas milling machines; they were just that high. However, a couple years or so back some small new upstart/machine shop knowing the desireability of the old Marvin attachment began offering spot on new replacements that were/are virtually identical to the origianl Marvin head. They were not cheap, but they were/are new, and vitually the same as the old highly coveted and priced Marvin attachments but at considerably less than the price of the old Marvin Heads. I have no idea if these are still currently being marketed and manufactured, if they are I suppose a simple google search would find them. The Marvin Vertical head was not the only product the Marvin company made though. As I recall they also made a slotter that was an aftermarket accessory for the Atlas 7B metal shaper as I recall.
> 
> 
> 
> I too noticed the taper, but for the life of me I cannot see how what is shown could be used as a vertical attachment for an Atlas milling machine.




Marvin made a Chain drive or Belt drive vertical head.  Looks like a quick finger remover if your not careful! 

http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlasmiller/page2.html


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## Uncle Buck

Very interesting, I have never seen an image of that slotter attachment for the mill. I knew they made one but thought it might be for the shaper. The image of the Marvin head removes all doubt as to what those looked like for those unfamiliar. Notice the absence of a step pully on that setup limiting the user to only one speed and the limited size of end mill the vertical head would accept.


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## CluelessNewB

> Notice the absence of a step pully



But it's driven off the original arbor so it has all the same speed steps as the horizontal arbor has which I believe varies depending on which flavor Atlas you have.


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## Uncle Buck

CluelessNewB said:


> But it's driven off the original arbor so it has all the same speed steps as the horizontal arbor has which I believe varies depending on which flavor Atlas you have.



That totally escaped me, yes of course you are absolutely correct! What was I thinking!


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## iron man

cbtrek said:


> Marvin made a Chain drive or Belt drive vertical head. Looks like a quick finger remover if your not careful!
> 
> http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlasmiller/page2.html



I had the marvin vertical upgrade it worked OK but there was a lot of flex in the shaft that it attaches too causing chatter.. Ray


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## cbtrek

Uncle Buck said:


> Marvin was the name of the original aftermarket vert head attachment for the Atlas Horizontal mill. In recent years the price of a complete and functional Marvin head was generally higher than the cost of most Atlas milling machines; they were just that high. However, a couple years or so back some small new upstart/machine shop knowing the desireability of the old Marvin attachment began offering spot on new replacements that were/are virtually identical to the origianl Marvin head. They were not cheap, but they were/are new, and vitually the same as the old highly coveted and priced Marvin attachments but at considerably less than the price of the old Marvin Heads. I have no idea if these are still currently being marketed and manufactured, if they are I suppose a simple google search would find them. The Marvin Vertical head was not the only product the Marvin company made though. As I recall they also made a slotter that was an aftermarket accessory for the Atlas 7B metal shaper as I recall.
> 
> 
> 
> I too noticed the taper, but for the life of me I cannot see how what is shown could be used as a vertical attachment for an Atlas milling machine.



This should make it more clear!


----------



## Uncle Buck

Yes, thank you! That made it crystal clear how this attachment would work on an Atlas machine. I totally get it now. Sorry, I just was not able to visualize it before. At any rate, the additional pictures might help others visualize how it would work as well and help you sell it right.


----------



## robert1352

Uncle Buck I tried your idea about tapping the little pins out from the back,and it worked like a charm! The name plates came off with no additonal damage. After I got those off I applied some paint stripper to the main casting. I plan on getting a fair amount of work done on the mill this weekend.


----------



## Uncle Buck

Great! Love to hear you are making progress. The splitter arrived yesterday, sorry it did not work as intended. I look forward to pics of your progress!


----------



## cbtrek

FYI
I do not know the owner!

I had seen the 2 arbors and the head and just wanted to help what I could.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261202050335&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1120


----------



## robert1352

I will be posting some new pictures of the items I have stripped the paint off of tomorrow. Also, I will post a picture of the workbench I picked up for 20$. Between yard work and milling machine I have been working my rear end off LOL.


----------



## robert1352

Got some bad news about the mill today.I took it to the machine shop hoping that the arbor press idea would finally solve my problem.After a while the guy called me and said that there was a tiny screw wedged down in the spindle thats why nothing I tried worked. He said he could get the arbor out for me but he would have to charge me a small fortune. So now i'm thinking this project might be at an end. The only other option is trying to drill out the arbour like another poster had suggested. But how much damage has been done to the spindle? Is it even worth saving now??


----------



## kd4gij

Did you get the spindle out of the hear casting?


----------



## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Got some bad news about the mill today.I took it to the machine shop hoping that the arbor press idea would finally solve my problem.After a while the guy called me and said that there was a tiny screw wedged down in the spindle thats why nothing I tried worked. He said he could get the arbor out for me but he would have to charge me a small fortune. So now i'm thinking this project might be at an end. The only other option is trying to drill out the arbour like another poster had suggested. But how much damage has been done to the spindle? Is it even worth saving now??



Did he explain how he planned to remove the arbor and why it would cost so much? Worst case cut the old arbor off with a cutoff wheel, or if need be a torch as a last resort. 

Ya have to dig an and be that much more persistant!


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## iron man

Well look it over good and find where the screw is located at that he is talking about take a picture and post it. It should be fairly simple from here now that you know the problem.. Ray


----------



## kd4gij

Where do you live is there a felow member close by.


----------



## Dave Smith

robert1352 said:


> Got some bad news about the mill today.I took it to the machine shop hoping that the arbor press idea would finally solve my problem.After a while the guy called me and said that there was a tiny screw wedged down in the spindle thats why nothing I tried worked. He said he could get the arbor out for me but he would have to charge me a small fortune. So now i'm thinking this project might be at an end. The only other option is trying to drill out the arbour like another poster had suggested. But how much damage has been done to the spindle? Is it even worth saving now??


My curiouslty is how he knows there is something like a tiny screw between your spindle taper and your arbor mt ---it would be impossible to see in that area from my thinking.  maybe I'm thinking about the wrong location.  If he could see it it--it would have to be in the tang or drawbar entry area.  hope you can get some pics so we can see where he says the little screw is jammed in.---on your thought of this being the end of your project, always remember that you can just make a vertical powered head and ignore the spindle problem.---that is how I am going to make my vertical powered head without using the atlas hor. spindle at all..--waiting for your pics and more information.     Dave


----------



## Uncle Buck

Dave Smith said:


> My curiouslty is how he knows there is something like a tiny screw between your spindle taper and your arbor mt ---it would be impossible to see in that area from my thinking. maybe I'm thinking about the wrong location. If he could see it it--it would have to be in the tang or drawbar entry area. hope you can get some pics so we can see where he says the little screw is jammed in.---on your thought of this being the end of your project, always remember that you can just make a vertical powered head and ignore the spindle problem.---that is how I am going to make my vertical powered head without using the atlas hor. spindle at all..--waiting for your pics and more information. Dave



You bring up some very valid points. However, I think he can get the thing separated and even in a worst case scenerio only sacrifice the arbor in the process.


----------



## Dave Smith

Uncle Buck said:


> You bring up some very valid points. However, I think he can get the thing separated and even in a worst case scenerio only sacrifice the arbor in the process.



You are right Uncle Buck--keep attacking the problem even if it goes slowly--I bet if you and I were there to help him we could get it---Your thinking is very similar to mine.....thanks for all the advise you are giving him.   --Dave


----------



## cbtrek

robert1352 said:


> Got some bad news about the mill today.I took it to the machine shop hoping that the arbor press idea would finally solve my problem.After a while the guy called me and said that there was a tiny screw wedged down in the spindle thats why nothing I tried worked. He said he could get the arbor out for me but he would have to charge me a small fortune. So now i'm thinking this project might be at an end. The only other option is trying to drill out the arbour like another poster had suggested. But how much damage has been done to the spindle? Is it even worth saving now??




Can you please add a photo of this screw so we can all see the problem.


----------



## wa5cab

Robert,

I think that this thread may have set a record for longest thread that actually stuck to the original machine and subject. :whistle:

At any rate, although there is no way in which you can recoup the time you have spent trying to remove that arbor, all is not really lost. If you have finally decided that you cannot remove it from the spindle, sacrifice the arbor and cut it off. There is a guy on eBay who sells new arbors in all three diameters. After the amputation, remove the spindle from the machine and take it to someone with a 30 or 50 ton press and have them remove the arbor stub. Then decide whether the spindle is usable/salvagable or not. If not, replacement spindles aren't easy to find but eventually you should be able to locate one.

Robert D.


----------



## robert1352

I’m going to try one more shop near by because I don’t see the screw the first guys was talking about, if that doesn’t work,im cutting off the arbor. As far as the rest of the machine is concerned, im still stripping off some stubborn paint and getting ready to buff and polish some of the parts. See the picture of some freshly stripped parts and my new to me workbench. I found it for 20$.


----------



## Uncle Buck

wa5cab said:


> Robert,
> I think that this thread may have set a record for longest thread that actually stuck to the original machine and subject. :whistle:
> 
> At any rate, although there is no way in which you can recoup the time you have spent trying to remove that arbor, all is not really lost.  If you have finally decided that you cannot remove it from the spindle, sacrifice the arbor and cut it off.  There is a guy on eBay who sells new arbors in all three diameters.  After the amputation, remove the spindle from the machine and take it to someone with a 30 or 50 ton press and have them remove the arbor stub.  Then decide whether the spindle is usable/salvagable or not.  If not, replacement spindles aren't easy to find but eventually you should be able to locate one.
> 
> Robert D.



YES ABSOLUTELY! I AGREE!!!!!


----------



## robert1352

One more item for today, a few weeks ago I suggested that there were what looked like gaskets on my mill. I later said that I might have been mistaken and that it was just sludge and grime from thirty or so years of use. In a pm to me Uncle Buck said that it would make sense if there had been gaskets on my mill because it had a coolant pump and would need gaskets to prevent the coolant from leaking out. Well to finally put the question to rest I can now say conclusively that there were gaskets on my mill, I know this because I just spent about forty minutes scraping the little bits off with a razor. LOL


----------



## iron man

If someone put a screw in the arbor to stop it from spinning in the taper that would be one thing but that should be easy to see otherwise I think the guy just did not want to do it and is blowing smoke. I wish you lived near by I am pretty sure I could have it out of there in short order with no damage.. Ray


 I have access to a 250 ton press that should do it..


----------



## robert1352

I agree with you Iron Man, I think that guy just didnt want to be bothered with it. Like I said there is another shop near by that I will take it to early this week and let them have a look at it. There is not too much left to do paint stripping wise, so I was wondering what everyone thinks would be a good color for the new paint job?  Should I get something off the shelf or try to get it back to the original color? Also, from what I have been reading on this site and a few others it seems like using a brush might work out better than spray paint,any thoughts?


----------



## kd4gij

Besides a machine shop look for a small auto shop on lawnmower shop thay will have a press and might be cheaper. As for paint I have been using rustolium hammer coat paint Black witch is a dark gray. Of corse color is up to you. Unless your restoring it for show original color isn't nessary.


----------



## cbtrek

robert1352 said:


> I agree with you Iron Man, I think that guy just didnt want to be bothered with it. Like I said there is another shop near by that I will take it to early this week and let them have a look at it. There is not too much left to do paint stripping wise, so I was wondering what everyone thinks would be a good color for the new paint job?  Should I get something off the shelf or try to get it back to the original color? Also, from what I have been reading on this site and a few others it seems like using a brush might work out better than spray paint,any thoughts?




I use blue painter tape for the areas you don't want painted and a razor blade to trim.


----------



## robert1352

So after my second trip to the machine shop I finally got the arbor free frome the spindle. I got the rest of the head apart and started stripping off the paint.Various gears are soaking in mineral sprits to help get off the grease and sludge. Good news is I dont see any broken teeth,but there does seem to be some rust. The arbor took quite a beating,I will probably just buy a new one.


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## iron man

It probably has seen its better days but it is repairable anyway it is good to see you got it out of there.. Ray


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## Uncle Buck

Great! So what finally got it apart? Also, there was no screw was there? Also, if that is a 1" arbor that would be the best to have as there are a lot more 1" cutters out there in the 1" size than the other sizes.


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## kd4gij

That is great. I knew it would come out.


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## Dave Smith

that was quite the challenge for you, and it should be very rewarding to know how many of us were cheering for you to get it removed.  good accomplishment.    Dave


----------



## Restorer

Since the bearings are now exposed cleanliness is of the utmost importance.

Soak the spindle assembly in Lacquer Thinner and remove any trace of dirt rust and sludge.  Keep any type of abrasive well away from the bearing.  Never use a Scotch pad to clean they contain abrasives.

I would procure (3) aluminum foil cook pans from your local market and a gallon of Lacquer thinner.  First pan COURSE clean, next is medium clean, the last is final clean prior to assembly.  New pans and fluid each step.

Soak in #1 for several days submerged.   Take out and blow off with compressed air.  Then into #2 clean pan clean fluid ( and cover) to soak until nearly ready for assembly.  

Thoroughly clean the outer races in the main casting and associated oil cups etc.
Mask very well prior to painting the main casting.

When ready for assembly again clean the outer races after removing masking.  Wipe races with oil.  Remove the spindle from bath #2 and blow off with compressed air.

Next into clean bath #3.  Add a little OIL or transmission fluid to the bath.  After a brief soak remove and place on a stack of 4 to 6 paper towels to air dry the solvent.  The oil prevents rusting of the clean steel.

Reassemble and generously lubricate the Timkin Bearings, back gear bearings, gears with grease, and the oil hole in the cone pulley.

Torque the preload nut to specification for the spindle.  This is very important for continued life of the bearings.

Enjoy a wonderful machine!

NOW to Prevent a re-occurrence of the problem (can you tell I have been their?)

When assembling the arbor to the spindle, apply OIL to the MT#2!!! .....
Make a knock out bar that is a solid bar slip fit thru the spindle.  Use the knock out bar not the draw bolt to remove the arbor.

Have fun you have earned it !!!  ...


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## cbtrek

FINALLY the last big problem now history,

Now the rest is easy and is very rewarding!


----------



## Uncle Buck

BTW: Put new bearings in her!


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## the gentleman

When you starting painting, get a small touch up paint roller kit from Home Depot ( $3 or $4 dollars ) use your brush in tight places and where you can use the roller. This will not leave brush marks and will look good on your milling machine.


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## Dave Smith

as far as the advice to use oil on your mt-taper, it is not a good idea--at least get a spindle drive nut like the one I sent a picture of in reply #91 on page 4 or 5.  then if your arbor doesn't have the two drive slots--just grind them in.  then you won't have to worry about your taper spinning and won't have to over-tighten your draw bar.  *most arbors have the drive slots on them.    Dave


----------



## robert1352

So I probably should have stated in my last post, there was no screw wedged in there like the first guy thought....ugh. The way it was finally removed was this, the gear and bearing at the rear of the spindle was removed which wasn’t easy because there was a sheared off set screw there. Then it was a simple matter to get the spindle out of the front, finally the arbor was forced out on a shop press.  Also thank you Restorer, you gave me a lot of good info in your recent post, but I will be replacing those bearings. I don’t want to have to go back in there anytime soon LOL. And a big thanks to everyone who was cheering for me!! I still have a little more paint stripping to do on the head and there are a few other smaller parts which are being stubborn.I will post some more of those pictures tomorrow, as a side note I have been so busy with the rest of the mill I had almost forgotten about the motor. I finally got around to plugging it in today and to my great relief it works fine, just needs some cleaning and fresh paint.


----------



## Uncle Buck

I will check and tell you the Timken bearing number you need for your mill. I still have the empty boxes from when I did mine out in the shop.

- - - Updated - - -



Dave Smith said:


> as far as the advice to use oil on your mt-taper, it is not a good idea--at least get a spindle drive nut like the one I sent a picture of in reply #91 on page 4 or 5.  then if your arbor doesn't have the two drive slots--just grind them in.  then you won't have to worry about your taper spinning and won't have to over-tighten your draw bar.  *most arbors have the drive slots on them.    Dave



I had an extra so I sent him one of those drive nuts you were speaking of.


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## robert1352

Yes Uncle Buck, please send me those bearing numbers and let me know if you bought your bearings from a parts supplier or from a store like autozone. Thanks all.


----------



## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Yes Uncle Buck, please send me those bearing numbers and let me know if you bought your bearings from a parts supplier or from a store like autozone. Thanks all.



I will get and share the bearing numbers tonight. I bought mine from a dedicated industrial bearing supplier local for me. I suppose a Napa or other such could also get any size bearings so long as you have the right number.


----------



## robert1352

Has anyone here tried using Press-n-Peel Blue (PnP) toner transfer paper to create metal tags for your machines? The reason I ask is because if you look carefully at the pictures I have posted in this thread while disassembling my mill you will notice that I am missing the "change - o - matic tag". The tags I do still have are not in the best of shape.Any thoughts on this process would be greatly appreciated.Thank you.


----------



## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Has anyone here tried using Press-n-Peel Blue (PnP) toner transfer paper to create metal tags for your machines? The reason I ask is because if you look carefully at the pictures I have posted in this thread while disassembling my mill you will notice that I am missing the "change - o - matic tag". The tags I do still have are not in the best of shape.Any thoughts on this process would be greatly appreciated.Thank you.



Never heard of the stuff myself.


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## Uncle Buck

Progress report please!


----------



## robert1352

Sorry I have not posted in a while. I have been busy with other obligations. Well after reviewing what I have done so far I think I am at the point where I can start thinking about painting. My first question would be about brush vs. spray. There really are not a whole lot of parts to this machine, not like a full size Bridgeport so I was wondering if I should use some rattle can spay paint and primer, or should I go with a brush paint job? Also any suggestions about color and primer would be greatly appreciated.


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## Uncle Buck

While I like spray painting stuff and I am even well set to even paint cars I always choose a brush finish for projects like this myself. I always feel like the thicker brush finish will be more durable which is why I go that way. Just my 2 cents.


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## iron man

I always use the self etching primer you can buy it in spray cans now its great for those hard to reach areas that you might not be able to scuff up for adhesion it goes on heavy and hides a lot of blemishes. Then I would just use a good quality spray enamel the spray cans are fine they just have to set for a while to properly cure.


----------



## robert1352

Good post about the self etching primer!! I was planning on using red oxide primer,but now i'm rethinking that idea. Also what would you guys recommend soaking the various parts in to make sure all of the paint stripper is off? Thanks Robert.


----------



## iron man

Just hose it off good maybe wash it with some dishwashing detergent and rinse with warm water.


----------



## robert1352

WOuld anyone here recommend using a little bondo to smooth out the castings?? Or is that going a little overboard?


----------



## kd4gij

Unless it is for show and tell only I would not use bondo.


----------



## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> WOuld anyone here recommend using a little bondo to smooth out the castings?? Or is that going a little overboard?



I have seen machines done that way by a friend and they looked absolutely beautiful, but he spray painted them with urethane (sp) paint just like you would  spray finish a car. The results were stunning, but I will admit I have never had the patience to apply that kind of finish to a piece of shop equipment myself. Plus, I would likely be too scared to use the machine if I ever made one look that good! I just stick to a combination of rattle cans and brush enamel myself.


----------



## cbtrek

When removing the original pant on my Rockwell 21-122 it had bondo in the bad casting spots. I even found a spot were the hole was brassed. After cleaning down to the metal, I put it back in.


----------



## Uncle Buck

cbtrek said:


> When removing the original pant on my Rockwell 21-122 it had bondo in the bad casting spots. I even found a spot were the hole was brassed. After cleaning down to the metal, I put it back in.



I don't blame you I would have done the same thing!


----------



## robert1352

Well after taking a good look at my castings now that they are cleaned there are just a few spots that could use a little bondo so I think I will give it a try. Any luck on those bearing numbers Uncle Buck? Do these sound like the right ones? The race number is 7196 (need 2 )bearing numbers are 7087 and 7100? Thanks.


----------



## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Well after taking a good look at my castings now that they are cleaned there are just a few spots that could use a little bondo so I think I will give it a try. Any luck on those bearing numbers Uncle Buck? Do these sound like the right ones? The race number is 7196 (need 2 )bearing numbers are 7087 and 7100? Thanks.




Oh my, so sorry I dropped the ball here. I will post those tonight when I get home. I hope it is not too late to help! anic:


----------



## Uncle Buck

robert1352 said:


> Well after taking a good look at my castings now that they are cleaned there are just a few spots that could use a little bondo so I think I will give it a try. Any luck on those bearing numbers Uncle Buck? Do these sound like the right ones? The race number is 7196 (need 2 )bearing numbers are 7087 and 7100? Thanks.


I only have two boxes left, one is 7100 and the other 7196 so I would safely assume the third was originally 7087. So that was what I got. Looks like you got the right stuff.


----------



## robert1352

Sorry I have not posted in a while, I have been working on several little projects around the house at once. So after priming and taping the various parts, I decided to go with a quart of Rustoleum “smoke grey” mixed with just enough mineral sprits to make the paint flow evenly. The pictures below show just the first coats.  I will allow these to dry completely before each new coat. Also I have decided not to use any Bondo, I wasn’t confident in my ability to apply it correctly.


----------



## Uncle Buck

Unless you are very picky about the finish of your machine you should be very pleased with how everything looks after you paint it Robert. The only time I ever used Bondo on one of my machines was an old Buffalo drill press I restored a few years back. I recall using it on the underside of the the table where it had been nearly drilled in half, though I admit the area would never have been seen because the table was re skinned with a new plate. I also used it to cove a nasty old weld repair that had been made by a prior owner. 

Progress looks great man, stay with it!


----------



## robert1352

Thanks Uncle Buck, like I said I thought about using some Bondo but after viewing some pictures on this site and other sites of machines where Bondo was and was not used; I kind of like the way the castings look without the Bondo. Also I have read about filler shrinking and flaking off if its not applied correctly. I would however like to know if anyone here  thinks I should apply clear coat? Would that make much of a diffrence?


----------



## Uncle Buck

Personally I just use heavy enamel and let it go at that. I have never clear coated anything, but then I will admit I can be a bit cheap and lazy!


----------



## Uncle Buck

Progress report????


----------



## Restorer

Gentlemen,

You have gotten me interested in cosmetic improvements on my Atlas Mill.

The original color appears to be similar to "Olive Drab".  A previous owner
applied a brushed coat of "Light Green".  This was a popular industrial color in the 1960's.

This is a suggestion to aid others in removing paint.  Use a gel stripper such as “Strippeze”.
Apply it thick in a small area, ex: 1/8 or more thick, 6 inch square area.  Glop it on quickly and cover with a piece of "Saran Wrap".  Repeat over the total area of the machine as required overlap is necessary.  The solvents do not affect the Saran Wrap, and the covering holds the chemistry in to work on the paint.   Fumes in the air are reduced as well.  Leave it on for 2 hours or more.  When the Saran Wrap is peeled off most of the paint comes off with it as well.  Wire brush off any remaining paint immediately.  Wipe down with a solvent such as Lacquer thinner and the item is ready for painting.

I like the suggestion of etching primer!

Uncle Buck, If you are having aluminum castings made for the Motor & Jack Shaft two step pulleys and a belt guard (motor to Jack Shaft) I am interested.


----------



## Uncle Buck

Restorer said:


> Uncle Buck, If you are having aluminum castings made for the Motor & Jack Shaft two step pulleys and a belt guard (motor to Jack Shaft) I am interested.


A few years back I had a small local aluminum foundry duplicate several Atlas 7b shaper doors for me and they came out absolutely beautiful. I planned to have the same guys pour me some milling machine guards so I tried to find them in the phone listings with no luck. A few days later I drove by and their name is still on the building and I saw a pile of their mold sand laying beside their shop but no one was there. I am going to make sure they are gone though before giving up on them. I have no clue who I will talk to next if they are out of business, hopefully I will be able to find another shop within reasonable driving distance.


----------



## Restorer

For Robert 1352: attachment if it works a drawing of the spindle you may want to make.

Its not my design ( downloaded PDF from the internet), and I see missing dimensions.  However these could be obtained from the old one.

- - - Updated - - -

Sorry, try #2 to attach a file.
Atlas horizontal spindle.


----------



## Uncle Buck

Restorer said:


> For Robert 1352: attachment if it works a drawing of the spindle you may want to make.
> 
> Its not my design ( downloaded PDF from the internet), and I see missing dimensions.  However these could be obtained from the old one.
> 
> - - - Updated - - -
> 
> Sorry, try #2 to attach a file.
> Atlas horizontal spindle.


I am fairly sure he was able to save the spindle.


----------



## Restorer

Uncle Buck,

Good luck with the foundry!  Thanks for trying.

Is their a clear concise set of directions for uploading DOC's to this forum?
I tried to follow the directions in the Home section with great difficulty.
Tried for 45 minutes without success.

I finally got the spindle sketch to go, but cant get scans of old mill catalogs to attach.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## wa5cab

Restorer,

If you are trying to upload PDF scans of catalogs, they go in the Downloads section.  Looks like you need about 5 more posts to have access to Downloads but once you have access, it works pretty well. 

Robert D.


----------



## Restorer

Three more parts that may be useful.


----------



## cbtrek

Found this guard for sale. Is this one you were looking for? 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atlas-Mill-...036?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d3bd064c



- - - Updated - - -

Any photos to update were your at today?


----------



## Uncle Buck

The cost of that guard is insane and to me beyond consideration for most folks. I cannot see how someone could ever justify most of $200 for that one little guard! That was 2/3 of the cost of what I paid for my machine!


----------



## Uncle Buck

nine4gmc said:


> I'll give you your $300 back for your machine, you can keep the guard for profit :whistle:



Man I know I should just jump all over that offer...........................:roflmao:


----------



## kd4gij

So what hapend to Robert no update


----------



## Uncle Buck

Just seemed to drop right off of the radar!


----------



## wa5cab

He's made several posts since 05/29, just none in this thread.

Robert D.


----------



## george wilson

Isn't the guard pictured an Atlas shaper guard?


----------



## Dave Smith

george wilson said:


> Isn't the guard pictured an Atlas shaper guard?



No--it looks the same as mine on my atlas mill.  Dave


----------



## wa5cab

No.  The shaper guards are S7-102 and S7-145.  M1-402B and M1-404 are the correct guard and hinge part numbers for at least MFC, M1C and MHC.

Robert D.


----------



## Uncle Buck

So how about a progress report on this project? Folks would love to hear where you are with this.


----------



## Uncle Buck

Calling Robert, we need an update here!


----------



## robert1352

It has been a while since I posted in this thread... I have had a lot of personal problems that I wont go into here. I have however finally found time to finish cleaning and painting my little atlas here are a couple of new pictures.


----------



## 34_40

That's gonna look sweet once it's re-assembled!  

Very Nice Indeed!!!


----------



## VSAncona

That's looking real nice. I'm in the middle of cleaning up one of these mills myself, so I can appreciate the amount of work that you've put into yours.


----------



## hardhatdiver

The mill is looking great.

Jumping in late on this thread. I saw a previous discussion regarding bondo. Thought I'd throw my two bits in. I didn't think much of it at first myself, but then I saw what Steve Lindsay was doing to his machines. I've tried a little bit of it on my Bradford reconditioning. Looks pretty nice.

http://www.lindsayengraving.com/tour/Monarch restore.html

I don't know if you have your mill put back together at this point (since it's already October), but, if you haven't considered this already, you might want to replace the collar on the back of the spindle with a Hornady lock ring; night and day.

Any progress on the mill?

Regards,
Jeremy


----------



## 34_40

Robert1352, how about an update?)


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## robert1352

Well for those of you who thought I fell off the face of the earth, Im back and I am starting to put the mill back together. I wont go into detail about what has kept me from posting but hopefully that’s behind me for now.  I will try to post pictures of the reassembly as I go along but don’t expect regular updates. Thus far I have managed to replace some of the brass parts and I have changed the paint to a shade of green, which looks a lot better than the smoke grey I started with. Right now im working on putting the base back tighter along with the knee , although as you can see from the pictures the shims are shot, any ideas for replacement shims would be appreciated. Thanks everyone.


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## VSAncona

Glad to see you're back at it, Robert. The mill is looking good.

Vince


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## robert1352

A few more recent pictures of the assembly process.


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## 34_40

Great to see you back at it!  I guess we did think you fell off kind of..  )

Any progress is good progress and we all have other things that consume our time.  
But we're glad you still have the mill and are getting it together,  the chips will be flying soon.  :thanks:


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## VSAncona

How did you paint the recessed area of the gears so neatly?


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## robert1352

I just poured a small amount of paint into the recess and guided it around with my brush. If I got any on the outside of the gear I would just wipe it off with a cloth dipped in mineral sprits.


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## VSAncona

I really like that color. Is that a custom mix or an off-the-shelf color? Would you care to share the name?


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## robert1352

Yes I like the color also. It is a custom mix ,I'll see if I can post the specific information about the paint later. I know it was a Sherwin Williams product, I will have to look for the paper I had with the specific color mix on it.


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## caveBob

robert1352 said:


> ... although as you can see from the pictures the shims are shot, any ideas for replacement shims would be appreciated...



When I rebuilt my lathe I found a real nice assortment of shims through Amazon. Funny... what was included is/was a lifetime supply for me, and surprised how often I've dipped into the "extras" to shim something or just needed some real thin stock for something. Don't know if you need to stick with brass or go with steel? Anyway, use your old shims as patterns as best you can:

Precision Brand Carbon Steel 1008 Shim Stock Assortment
http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Carbon-Assortment-Temper-Chemistry/dp/B003A03JTG

260 Brass Sheet, Unpolished (Mill) Finish, Half Hard Temper, 0.001-0.015" Thickness, 6" Width, 12" Length (Pack of 12)
http://www.amazon.com/Unpolished-Finish-Temper-0-001-0-015-Thickness/dp/B002BYTCL6


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## hardhatdiver

Mill is looking great!

How wide are those shims?


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## robert1352

He is a picture of the can of paint I used. I hope this helps. I hope you can read that if not let me know.


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## robert1352

hardhatdiver said:


> Mill is looking great!
> 
> How wide are those shims?



I know they are suppose to be .002 and .004 (two on each side) thick according to the prints , later today I will take a measurement for you.


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## Uncle Buck

Sure would like an update on this.


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## Lordbeezer

Me too..


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## The Liberal Arts Garage

Two indispensable tools: the lead hammer and a suitable maple or other
Hard wood dowel of suitable length and diameter and ,set your mind at
Ease ! ......BLJHB.


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