# Talk me out of this lathe -OR- don't (Grizzly 0602)



## thepass

Hello! First post here. I work in the automotive aftermarket industry and dabble in fabrication - mostly sheet metal, welding and composites. I want to add machining capabilities to my "tool belt", have done a little bit here and there with other's machines but haven't had my own. Taking the plunge and just purchased a solid ACRA vertical mill and now shopping for a lathe.

I'm not doing production, just one-off stuff and prototypes. Lathe will probably only be ran a couple times a week. Mostly aluminum but I may need to turn some steel here and there.

I've had my eye on the Grizzly 10x22" lathe #G0602Z

The big question here is whether this is a good buy. There's only one review of it on their site and that guy seemed to modify his a bit. I've read the Grizzly forums here on H-M and most everyone seems to like them, but is there a better buy for this price bracket that solves something this needs? This ~$2,000 range is what I have a budget for. I'm sure I can get bigger better stronger for more money, but I can't justify more cost for the infrequency with which this will be used. 

I suppose my only "concerns" are whether the 1HP motor is enough to turn a bit of steel now and then, and whether I can get decent accuracy with this lathe. 

Hoping you guys can either ease my mind that this is a decent buy, or steer me another direction if there's something better to consider.

Thanks!


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## projectnut

Personally I'm a fan of old American iron.  I think you can find a larger, more versatile, better built used machine for machine for the same or less money.  I have 2 lathes in the shop.  The oldest is a Seneca Falls Star #20 from 1916.  It has a 10" throw and a 60" bed.  It uses a 1 hp motor and that's more than sufficient.  The newer one is a 1960 Sheldon MW-56-P.  It uses a 2 hp motor and has a 13" throw with a 56" bed.  

While the throw of the Grizzly may be adequate, I believe you'll outgrow the 22" bed in short order.  If you start using it on a regular basis You may also find the throw somewhat limiting.  I had the Seneca Falls machine for 16 years before I finally broke down and bought the Sheldon.  The Seneca Falls machine did fine for the first 10 years or so.  There were things I couldn't do, but was too frugal (cheap) to buy a second machine.  I finally decided it was time for a larger machine.  

When the Sheldon came on the market  I jumped on it.  It's now become the go to machine for most work.  It cost a bit more than the Grizzly you're looking at, but it was totally rebuilt, including grinding the bed and cross slide ways, and new bearings.  It also included a number of accessories like 2- 3jaw chucks, a 4 jaw chuck, QCTP, several drill chucks, a 5C collet chuck, work light and several other goodies.  In short It would have cost me more for a bare bones new machine, and I don't think it would be in the same league as far as quality and craftsmanship are concerned.

I'm sure there are others on this board that have considerably different opinions.

Sheldon MW-56-P







Seneca Falls Star #20


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## Aaron_W

A lot will depend on what you are making, but 10x22 is a decent size for many projects without taking up a ton of room. The step up to a 12x36 is a much bigger step than the numbers would suggest, more power, larger spindle bore (usually 1-1/2" vs 1") and usually more features. Of course that comes with more space, cost, 240v power requirement etc.

Without going bigger you might also take a look at the Precision Matthews 10x22 and 10x30 lathe. These are similar in size but have a few more features like a power feed in the cross slide but do add about 25% to the cost.

Precision Matthews 


I agree with Projectnut, vintage machines can be a great value. However they do require you have some knowledge of what you are looking at to avoid getting junk.


Personally for somebody who doesn't really know where they are headed I think the 9x19 and 10x22 lathes are a good place to start. Big enough to do some decent size projects, and fairly cheap so you aren't out too much if you decide to upgrade later to something bigger, better quality after learning what you really want. They are also small enough that they can make a nice second lathe if you have the room. Lots of people are quite satisfied with a lathe this size, and you might be one.

Lots of people looking for small lathes like this, so they are pretty easy to sell if you want / need something bigger / better in the future, but know machines lose about 1/2 their value as soon as you open the box, just how it is.


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## thepass

Thanks for the replies guys. I had certainly considered going with a used unit to try to get more for my money but it seems everything in Southern California Craigslists, at least while I've been looking, is either a super heavy duty $20,000 machine or anything in my kind of price range is a rusted and beat up thing that's been sitting outside, missing parts, etc. and as a newcomer to lathes I don't want to buy into a restoration project. The lack of second hand affordable units in the area may hint at the fact that most everyone who has one hangs onto it and likes it. That's promising.

Keying in to what Aaron_W said, as a beginner I want something that I can get up and running with. I have no doubt that 5-10 years from now I'll know exactly what I want in a more expensive and more capable machine, but it takes experience to get to that point. At the moment, all of the projects I can think of that I'd like to use this for are relatively small and a 10x22 is more than enough for them... but of course, we all know how Murphy likes to work; the moment I buy it some larger project will spring up! Those Precision Mathews lathes look very nice... and actually similar price comparing the 10x22 with variable speed and DRO between it and the Grizzly. Aaaand it's only an extra $100 to go from 22" up to 30".

Am I giving too much importance to a DRO on a lathe? For the vertical mill it was a "must have", and I figure that if I want to make things with accurate ODs and IDs I ought to have a DRO so I can easily dial that in. But it seems a far less common feature on lathes and perhaps most find it unnecessary?


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## wrmiller

Yea, be careful with the 'used iron' machines. Depending on where you look, there's a good chance that the old iron is worn more, less accurate than a new machine. But again, it depends on where you look.

The new PM stuff is pretty decent for it's price range. Even their Chinese stuff. And the good part is that if something breaks or isn't working properly, you have a warranty and people in customer service who will help.

And not everyone needs a 2 ton production lathe for home/hobby projects. After having gone through more than a few lathes and mills, I'd suggest you plan your machine size for what you want to do now, and then buy at least half again as much capacity as you think you need now. If you never need it, cool. But if you ever do need it, you're prepared.

I personally like DROs. Not because I don't know how to read a dial (I do), but a DRO is faster than counting turns (especially when I lose count...) and a good accurate DRO/scale combination is more accurate than dials as I have difficulty cutting a few tenths with dials, whereas I can do this easily with my DRO. But not everyone needs that level of accuracy. If you don't think you need it now, and change your mind down the road, you can always add it later.

Just my two cents Sir.


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## mikey

Welcome to HM!

There are some experienced G0602 guys here that should chime in. I am not one of them so take what I say with a grain of salt. 

There are tons of threads here on buying a new lathe and I suggest you spend some time reading them. I just wanted to make the point that lathes can be modded to improve their function but, in general, they cannot be upgraded to be more than they already are. You cannot add a quick change gear box, a larger spindle or a camlock spindle if the lathe doesn't have it originally. It would be very wise to read threads here and make a list of all the features a good lathe should have before zeroing in on a particular make or model. 

The other thing to consider is new vs old/used and Chinese vs Taiwanese. I vote for new Taiwanese and personally I would pay extra to have it to avoid wear and quality control issues. 

Gotta' run but my best advice is to read the thread on new lathes here. Most of what can be said has already been said. Then make a list and ask questions to be sure you understand the relative importance of the different features a lathe can/should have. Then decide.


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## ttabbal

For a complete newbie like I was, I don't like the advice to buy a used old iron machine. We don't know how to evaluate a machine tool. If you know someone you trust to help with that evaluation, by all means, go that way. You can get a lot for your money if you know what to look for. If not, you might buy a really pretty, really worn out machine. When I bought the used Bridgeport a couple years of experience helped a lot to evaluate it. And even then, I got lucky that an older gentleman was downsizing and was honest about the condition. I also knew that BPs had a big enough market that parts are still available. Some of the older machines aren't so well supported. 

I really like my PM1127. It's not perfect, no lathe in this price range would be, but it's a lot of machine for the money. I'm sure the 10x machines are also good, and almost ended up with one. The guys here convinced me to upsize a little and I think it was a good choice for me. A couple of things I didn't think would be a big difference... Power crossfeed, I use it every time I use the lathe, seriously. D1 Camlock chucks, makes swapping so much easier and faster. The Grizzly uses a threaded spindle, which is faster than the bolt-on style the PM 10x lathes use, but threaded chucks limit your ability to run in reverse, as the chuck could thread off under power. That would be... bad. I don't think that would be a dealbreaker, but it's nice for some operations. Variable speed is really nice, the Grizzly uses belt changes to change speed. I would hate that. I can go from about 100-700 RPM just by spinning the knob. That covers most of what I need as I usually use HSS tooling. I change to a higher range with a belt change, but rarely need to. 

As for the DRO, I like mine. I just installed it after the fact. You can get nice DROs for about $200 and installing them isn't too bad. And as mikey said, read some of the older threads. There is a wealth of knowledge here about why you might want to consider certain features more than others.


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## RJSakowski

I have owned the G0602 lathe for about six years.  On all that time, I have never needed more than the 22" and only once had a part that pushed the 10" swing. The 1 hp  motor is adequate for most work.  

I have made a number of modifications and additions to my lathe.  Beefed up 6 bolt compound, QCTP, lead screw reversing for left hand threading, carriage stop, spindle work stop, DRO for x, z and tailstock, and an electronic lead screw among others.  However, the 602 will perform reasonably out of the crate.  I don't regret having bought it.


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## RJSakowski

ttabbal said:


> .... The Grizzly uses a threaded spindle, which is faster than the bolt-on style the PM 10x lathes use, but threaded chucks limit your ability to run in reverse, as the chuck could thread off under power. .....


The Grizzly G0602 has two locking dogs which prevent the chuck from unthreading when running in reverse.


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## Aaron_W

thepass said:


> Thanks for the replies guys. I had certainly considered going with a used unit to try to get more for my money but it seems everything in Southern California Craigslists, at least while I've been looking, is either a super heavy duty $20,000 machine or anything in my kind of price range is a rusted and beat up thing that's been sitting outside, missing parts, etc. and as a newcomer to lathes I don't want to buy into a restoration project. The lack of second hand affordable units in the area may hint at the fact that most everyone who has one hangs onto it and likes it. That's promising.
> 
> Am I giving too much importance to a DRO on a lathe? For the vertical mill it was a "must have", and I figure that if I want to make things with accurate ODs and IDs I ought to have a DRO so I can easily dial that in. But it seems a far less common feature on lathes and perhaps most find it unnecessary?



Used machines are funny, you will watch and see overpriced project machines and way overpriced "restorations' (usually just a new coat of paint) or "museum pieces" and think you can't find a decent used machine anymore. I've found the real trick is you have to be persistent checking CL several times a day, and when you see what looks like a deal jump on it quick because they won't hang around long if they are really a deal. Of course there has to be machinery out there which isn't the case everywhere.

The thing with vintage USA machines is they are old, most manufacturers making machine the average home shop person wants quit making machines here by the mid 80s so they are at a minimum of 35 years old, and many are 50+. A lot of these machines are plain worn out / neglected / abused, however when you do find a good one they were built to last several lifetimes and when you are gone, someone else will start using it. Assuming Star Trek Replicators are not in every household by then. 

I started with a (new) mini-lathe and mill, I didn't have much room and anyway I was sure that was all I'd ever need because I just wanted to make tiny stuff. Famous last words, I didn't know how addictive machining was, I just saw it as a means to an end (making stuff) and now fixing up machines, making tooling for them etc is as much of a hobby as the modeling that got me into this mess. I now have a variety of larger machines and some machines that I didn't even know existed when I was starting out. I also got pretty good at making space for it where none existed. I still use those little machines for the jobs I got them for, the bigger machines do the bigger stuff I discovered I like doing (mostly making stuff for the machines it seems, I'm not really sure who is in charge anymore  ).

New machines are a safe bet, even the Chinese machines are a pretty good value for what most hobbyists and light industry needs. There is better quality stuff for those who need it / can afford it. The vintage stuff can be a great value, often built to a standard well beyond our simple needs and it has more character (in my opinion), but also some liabilities. Wear, parts availability, manuals and tech support being the big ones. The machine may be perfect but operators aren't and at some point you may break something. The machine doesn't even need to be that old, I've seen posts where people are having trouble getting parts for a machine they bought new 10 or 15 years ago. Some of the old companies still offer decent support for their ancient machines (Logan and Clausing / Atlas / Kalamazoo), some are long demised.

I'm also bit of a contradiction, I feel pretty strongly that new is a better choice for beginners. That was the plan I intended to follow but I've ended up with a shop full of vintage machines. That happened largely through a great enabler err support network who helped me find my first old machines and gave me guidance and the confidence to evaluate them on my own. This place has many great members who will happily spend your money, but they are also pretty good about helping you spend it wisely. Most of the machines in my shop are older than I am. I also recognize I got here through a little luck and a lot of help. Those who are to blame know who they are.     

I will also add, once you have something, even if it isn't your dream machine it gets a lot easier to sit back a watch for a deal on your perfect machine.




mikey said:


> I just wanted to make the point that lathes can be modded to improve their function but, in general, they cannot be upgraded to be more than they already are. You cannot add a quick change gear box, a larger spindle or a camlock spindle if the lathe doesn't have it originally.



Agree with Mikey on this, usually when you see people modding their machines it is to address a design shortcoming or damage. The 9x19 and 10x22 lathes have a pretty active user group with loads of mods. Most will readily admit they have so many mods because the machines fall a little short of perfection. You see a lot less of this with the bigger machines, they cost more upfront and know their users will be less tolerant of cut corners. If you spend $2000 on a new lather you can not expect the same quality as one that costs $8000. As much love as the vintage stuff gets, you see owners doing a lot of work to bring an old machine back up to spec. You do occasionally see somebody putting on a different spindle, or adding a gear box but that is usually because it was an option for that lathe and just didn't come on that particular machine. It would be quite a job to do something like that from scratch.




ttabbal said:


> The Grizzly uses a threaded spindle, which is faster than the bolt-on style the PM 10x lathes use, but threaded chucks limit your ability to run in reverse, as the chuck could thread off under power. That would be... bad. I don't think that would be a dealbreaker, but it's nice for some operations.



Not sure about the G0602, but the G4000 9x19 actually has a simple locking collar to prevent the chuck from backing off. Just a piece of angle stock with a screw but it works. I had quite a time trying to get the chuck off my Enco before I noticed that little screw...


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## jwmelvin

When I started looking for a lathe, the PM 10x30 or 11x27 seemed like my target. I didn’t appreciate most of the various features but I knew where the budget would start to be an issue. Then all of a sudden a G0602 popped up on Craigslist for $750 and I jumped on it. Some aspects of a larger and nicer machine would be great, but it has been enjoyable. No other used lathes in the several months I looked were that affordable other than pretty small things. 

I’d most like to change the motor to variable speed, as the belt system is a pain. And a real gearbox would be nice as the change gears are a little intimidating. I know I should get over that and get familiar with them...

I don’t mind the mod scene as that’s an activity I enjoy. So I look forward to making some improvements over time.


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## Aaron_W

jwmelvin said:


> I don’t mind the mod scene as that’s an activity I enjoy. So I look forward to making some improvements over time.



That is actually how I ended up with an Enco 9x20. I really didn't need it, but it was cheap, in good shape and nearby. I thought it would be fun to tinker with and do some of the mods to make it better. Also handy for the metric thread cutting which my vintage lathe isn't set up for (the metric gear set costs quite a bit more than I paid for the Enco).


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## BGHansen

There is something nice about getting new even if it's an import from China.  I fondly remember uncrating my Grizzly G0709 around 5 years ago.  I've had no issues with my Grizzly machine.

I hit Craig's List (used the web site searchtempest.com) for 'metal lathe'.  Here are a few in CA and NV that may be of interest:

12 x 36 import lathe - asking $1600








						Lathe 12x36 - tools - by owner - sale
					

Shenwai 12 x36 Metal Lathe 1985 110 volts Quick Change Tool Post Lots of tooling 3 and 4 Jaw...



					slo.craigslist.org
				




Clausing 12 x 24 (?) - might be a 4800 or 4900 series with a 1 1/2" x 8 screw on chuck.  Asking $1200








						Clausing Metal Lathe 12 x 36 - tools - by owner - sale
					

Clausing metal lathe in workin gcondition. Belt drive. power feed. Low and high speeds all...



					losangeles.craigslist.org
				




Import 12 x 36








						12"x36" Metal Lathe - tools - by owner - sale
					

Excellent condition. Retrofitted with DROs on both axis (.0005" resolution). High quality...



					inlandempire.craigslist.org


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## projectnut

It might be interesting to take a look at the attached inspection sheet from Sheldon.  See how the tolerances of a machine built for commercial use compare the machine tolerances to those of the Grizzly 10x22" lathe #G0602Z you are considering.


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## kb58

It's ALL about context. Usage, new, old, size, cost, 'Merican vs Other:

Usage: what will you use it for? What will be cut? How long are the parts you expect to cut on it?

New/old: Much like buying a car, there a lot to be said for both. New, you pretty much know what you're getting, and get a warranty, and spend far more money. Used, you have to know what to look for and avoid. A big question is: are you looking for a tool to immediately put to work and produce accurate results, or a restoration project? Do you want 0.001 accuracy or 0.0001? Do you _need _that accuracy?

Size: how much room you have will strongly focus the options.

'Merican vs Other: Probably the most contentious factor of all, and again, it depends entirely upon the buyer's mindset. Either source can be justified depending upon your situation. Just keep in mind that buying used equipment doesn't hurt or harm any country. A typical comment heard is "that foreign POS lathe wouldn't last a day in our (commercial) shop." The answer is "right, and it's not going into a commercial shop, is it." In the right context, an import lathe may well outlive a domestic machine simply because it's use 100X less.

Bonus issues:
Beginners usually overlook tool cost, and as more experienced hobbyist point out, figure a couple thousand for that, regardless of the machine. And finally, the cost to get the machine into your shop. Doing it yourself saves a lot of money, or puts you in the hospital, or worse, if you fail. It's thousands of pounds to deal with, so previous experience is mandatory. Paying someone to move it sure makes things easy, but going even 5 miles can run between $200 - $800.

---

I've owned two lathes, both used. The first was a Grizzly 12x36 Taiwan-built lathe from the early 1980s that I got in the late 1990s for $1200. It served me well during fabrication of the two scratch-built cars in my signature. I never once needed all of the bed length for what I used it for.

Eventually I decided to restore it, and even had the parts on-hand. The only thing holding me back were stories about what it took to get the head stock apart. During that hesitation, a late 1980's Japanese-made Takasawa TSL-800 popped up for sale not 3 miles from home. I had just become intrigued by them and long story short, ended up with it for $1500. The "800" refers to the bed length (31"), so even though it weighs more than twice as much as the Grizzly, it fit in the same physical space. I expect that it'll exceed all my needs. The Grizzly was sold for $1500, so the Takasawa was essentially a free upgrade, but of course new tooling blew that savings out of the water.

Lastly, I, too, live in the San Diego area and there are always many lathes on CL. Number one piece of advice, don't be in a hurry.

PS: I did buy a new Taiwan mill. I'm very happy with it, but do wonder if buying used would have been better; the problem is defining what "better" means.  Oh, and regarding having a DRO, I've used machines both with and without. Personally, I REALLY like having a DRO on the mill, but on a lathe, I consider them very much a not-so-necessary accessory.


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## thepass

Tons of great feedback here guys, thank you. Just hearing how those with experience feel about import mills really helps.

To address kb58's important points:

Usage: most of what I expect to be making is small. Aluminum standoffs for bolts, steel dowel pins of various sizes, that sort of stuff. But I want enough size that when I get familiar with the machine and start realizing what _could_ be made with it that I _can_ make that larger, more complex part. Which is why I was considering at least 10x22.

I don't foresee using this more than for a project or two per week at most. It will likely sit for weeks between use at times, then get powered up when that need for something that only the lathe can solve arises. Definitely falls into the "hobbyist" category rather than "production".

I do want something that can be put right to use. I don't want a restoration project (don't have the familiarity with a lathe yet to do a restoration anyways).

I would like accuracy to about 0.001"

Size: I have space, can make freestanding room if needed, but the "benchtop" 10x22 or 10x30 would be convenient as I have a very long bench across one wall where that could go.

Moving: Buying new would be the easy button. Can have it delivered to the shop via freight with a liftgate right onto our loading dock and pallet jack it in from there, engine hoist to get it up on to the bench. If I bought used I'd have to take an engine hoist with me in the truck to load/unload. Having just bought a 2,700 lb vertical mill on Craigslist and transported that in my truck from Los Angeles to San Diego and rented a forklift to unload it here and get it into the building, the lathe looks relatively easy.

That PM-1030V is the current leader in my mind.

Tooling cost: I suppose this applies to all first-timers, anyone who hasn't had a lathe yet needs to starts with none of the essentials. What would you guys consider the most common tooling? My current list is pretty short; a HSS tool set is about it.


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## ttabbal

Drill chuck and live center for the tailstock, whatever lathe you get determines the taper. MT2 and MT3 are common in smaller machines. Some center drills as well. 

HSS blanks and a grinder. See the model tools thread and we'll get you a set. 3/8 blanks are a good choice for this size. 

A decent caliper and micrometer. I recommend older analog micrometers from the big names. Ebay has a bunch for reasonable prices. I love my mitutoyo digital caliper, but it might be an upgrade for later depending on budget. Shars has some I hear work well for much lower cost. Even HF isn't horrible, but they tend to be glitchy when the battery is low.


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## projectnut

I would agree with ttabbal as far as measuring equipment is concerned.  Name brand used from eBay is a good option.  As for the micrometers I was advised to purchase a 0-1", 1"-2", and 2"to 3" when I started working in a shop in the 1980's.  Mine are the lower end Starrett mechanicals.  I still have them today and still use them on a daily basis. They're just as accurate today as they were in 1980.  Since then I have acquired Starrett's up to 6", but find 90+% of the work I do is with the original 1" to 3" models. 

I have a number of Mitutoyo and Starrett calipers in addition to several from HF. Those from HF don't have the same fit and finish of the higher end brands, but they are just as accurate down to .001"and cost next to nothing compared to the others.  Mine are between 10 and 15 years old and operate fine.  They use a $1.99 battery every couple years, but given the initial price, and accuracy they're far worth the money.  You can usually pick them up for $20.00 or less, and as low as $9.95 when they go n sale.  In reality I use the HF ones as much or more than the Starrett's and Mitutoyo's.  Should they get dropped or damaged you won't be out a ton of money

If you intend to purchase a 4 jaw chuck, which I think you'll find will be a go to accessory in the near future, I would also purchase a DTI and magnetic base.  Again there are several DTI's available on eBay for reasonable prices.  You can buy higher end magnetic bases, but I don't think they're any better than those available from Shars or HF.  I have probably a dozen different bases of various brands and they all work well.  

I'm making the assumption that your machine will come with a quick change tool post.  If it does I would also consider a few extra tool holders.  Shars is a good source for these items, just make sure you get the size and style that fit your tool post.  Again I have a couple dozen of these and they're all decent quality.  They usually run between $10.00 and $15.00 depending on the size and configuration.  Prices may be a bit higher these days due to the added tariffs.

If spacers are on your list of things to fabricate I would also get some countersinks to deburr the through holes.  I find KEO and MA Ford single flute models work well on both the mill and lathe.  They are a bit more expensive than others, but seem to last almost indefinitely.  I bought a set of MA Fords (1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4") back in the 1980's when I was working in a prototype shop.  I still have them today, and I've only had to sharpen them a couple times in over 35 years.  I'm sure in that time they've countersunk and deburred thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of holes.


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## RJSakowski

jwmelvin said:


> When I started looking for a lathe, the PM 10x30 or 11x27 seemed like my target. I didn’t appreciate most of the various features but I knew where the budget would start to be an issue. Then all of a sudden a G0602 popped up on Craigslist for $750 and I jumped on it. Some aspects of a larger and nicer machine would be great, but it has been enjoyable. No other used lathes in the several months I looked were that affordable other than pretty small things.
> 
> I’d most like to change the motor to variable speed, as the belt system is a pain. And a real gearbox would be nice as the change gears are a little intimidating. I know I should get over that and get familiar with them...
> 
> I don’t mind the mod scene as that’s an activity I enjoy. So I look forward to making some improvements over time.


The 602 OEM drive configuration is a pain to use.  I modified mine and belt changes are less than a minute with no fumbling now.








						Another 602 Improvement
					

My Grizzly G0602 lathe is generally a pleasure to use.  However, there is one particularly annoying shortcoming.  The OEM idler is located in a diagonal slot above the belt and adjusting consists of loosening a nut on the back side of the bracket plate sliding the stud to an appropriate position...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


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## xman_charl

*G0602 Lathe Horror...*

home user...started up lathe...crack, boom, bam, click

cannot run it like this


removed belts to isolate noise...


noise definitely motor....crack, boom, bam, click

shined flashlight back of motor, could see fan not moving properly!!!








enlarged motor mount holes...







shims under motor mount pads, what the xxxx!!!














Charl


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## bradleyrobertc

I’ve had my G0602 for a year. Good machine in my experience, but Chinese QC isn’t all that great. I have upgraded mine with a quick change tool post and a live center. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## xman_charl

*the fix is in....

gorllia epoxy

nylon ring, fits tight, 1/4 inch, made on my 9x20

hope it lasts*
















*Charl*


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