# Pm935 Owners



## wrmiller

Those of you who put your mill on a base: How many of you put wheels on your base? Would you mind posting a pic or two? Need some ideas for a mobile base. Thanks.


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## Duker

wrmiller said:


> Those of you who put your mill on a base: How many of you put wheels on your base? Would you mind posting a pic or two? Need some ideas for a mobile base. Thanks.



Here is my version which I borrowed the  primary shape from other 935 mill owners. 

I added the threaded rod with a welded nut on each corner so I could quickly level the base to keep it from moving using my portable drill or impact. It takes under a minute to lower the feet and level the base. The Albion casters roll very easily with the mill... in fact maybe too easily as I let the mill go and it kept rolling taking a needle valve off of the power draw bar from my ceiling lights! 

I can get my toes under the front of the base if I need to lean in but I have also pulled up a stool and used the base as a foot rest which has been a bonus while doing some repetitive drilling.


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## zmotorsports

Bill, was your Charter Oaks mill base mobile?  Sorry I can't remember but I recall it being stationary.

Duke, what????  You broke the power drawbar?  Do you have the needle valve part number or do you need them?  I think I have them written down and shoot them to you if needs be.

Mike.


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## Duker

zmotorsports said:


> Duke, what????  You broke the power drawbar?  Do you have the needle valve part number or do you need them?  I think I have them written down and shoot them to you if needs be.
> 
> Mike.



Mike, long since fixed. The draw bar still works like a champ!  Thanks!


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## wrmiller

Mike: The stand on my 12z is mobile. Had a few inches added to the base when they built it. Table sits between 43" and 44" off the floor, which has been very comfortable for me.

Duker: Dude, that is a seriously stout base! That thing could probably hold up my Camaro if I could fit it on there.


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## zmotorsports

Duker said:


> Mike, long since fixed. The draw bar still works like a champ!  Thanks!



Duke, glad to hear that you are still happy with the power drawbar and that you were able to get a needle valve replacement.

Mike.


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## Chris Bettis

Does anyone have bolt hole spacing for the base of the mill?

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## tmarks11

Chris Bettis said:


> Does anyone have bolt hole spacing for the base of the mill?


Be careful with that info.  That is usually a non-precise operation at the factory 0n most mills, and the hole spacing can vary considerably from mill to mill.


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## wrmiller

Yea, that is exactly what Matt told me this morning.


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## zmotorsports

The bolt hole centers on mine were the same as another member's 935 on here but I opted to wait until I received mine to drill the holes/fabricate the stand "just in case" as Matt told me the same thing, they may or may not be the same as the previous batch.

Mike.


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## Jim Wilson

Not a PM-935 - but here's what I did with my PM-932V.  I used some really heavy duty (1200 pounds each) 6in diameter casters,  fixed on the "back" side and swivel on the "front" side  - and welded up a dolly that the mill base basically drops into.  The base is bolted down to the dolly using the factory bolt holes.  I just got the mill finally mounted up on the dolly this past weekend - and it seems to work good.  I wanted something that would allow me to move it around the shop if I needed to,  but fix it in place if needed.    I have to turn the feet down by hand - but they give me a way to get the mill off the casters if needed.














I'm trying to make the best use of space within the shop too - and when I looked at that base I saw a bunch of space that just needed something in it.

So I'm going to mount a Durham rack for the smaller sized containers into the base - I still have to weld up a bracket to mount it - but I ground out
the side opening and that is ready to go:


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## Duker

Nice base! I can appreciate trying to incorporate storage wherever you can as I can barely move in my shop! 

You must be either a Big true blue Miller fan to even paint what appears to be a HF cart to match or even more OCD about matching your garage color scheme than I am! 


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## Jim Wilson

He - good eye!  Yes that's an HF cart - it's what I keep all my welding stuff in - and I do have a Miller - a couple in fact.  I picked up a 350P MIG setup a couple of years ago and I've got a Miller EconoTig that I've probably had for 20 years now (at least).


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## Happycamper

zmotorsports said:


> Bill, was your Charter Oaks mill base mobile?  Sorry I can't remember but I recall it being stationary.
> 
> Duke, what????  You broke the power drawbar?  Do you have the needle valve part number or do you need them?  I think I have them written down and shoot them to you if needs be.
> 
> Mike.



Mike I've watched your youtube video on the power bar build and want to build one. The air actuator and parts, where did you get them if you don't mind me asking.


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## zmotorsports

Happycamper said:


> Mike I've watched your youtube video on the power bar build and want to build one. The air actuator and parts, where did you get them if you don't mind me asking.



The 3/8" butterfly I purchased from Harbor Freight, the pneumatic cylinder I bought off of eBay and the rest of the components (air line, needle valves, fittings,etc) I obtained from McMaster Carr.

Mike.


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## wrmiller

Has anyone any experience with the Mach1 tool changing system for those who are air compressor challenged?


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## Happycamper

zmotorsports said:


> The 3/8" butterfly I purchased from Harbor Freight, the pneumatic cylinder I bought off of eBay and the rest of the components (air line, needle valves, fittings,etc) I obtained from McMaster Carr.
> 
> Mike.


Thanks Mike. Does it matter the size/ diameter of ghe sir cylinder?


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## TomS

wrmiller said:


> Has anyone any experience with the Mach1 tool changing system for those who are air compressor challenged?



I don't have any experience with the Mach1 tooling system but I do have the Ultron Snap Change system on my PM-932.  I like it a lot.  Both tooling systems are similar in how they work.  The major difference is that the Mach1 system uses standard R8 collets whereas the Ultron system uses their proprietary collets.

Tom S.


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## wrmiller

Thanks Tom, I already have a nice set of Taiwan collets so I'll check into the Mach1 system.


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## TomS

wrmiller said:


> Thanks Tom, I already have a nice set of Taiwan collets so I'll check into the Mach1 system.



From what I gathered on the Mach1 site the cost is about $1,500 which is the same as the Ultron set up.  Ultron collets run about $100 to $125 each.  A bit steep.  Had I not got my Ultron system at a bargain price I would also be considering Mach1.

Tom S.


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## catoctin

wrmiller said:


> Those of you who put your mill on a base: How many of you put wheels on your base? Would you mind posting a pic or two? Need some ideas for a mobile base. Thanks.


See my "PM935-TV Arrives" thread.  I built my base months before my mill arrived.


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## catoctin

Happycamper said:


> Mike I've watched your youtube video on the power bar build and want to build one. The air actuator and parts, where did you get them if you don't mind me asking.


An alternative to Mike's design is the Joe Vicar's design.  Plans for it are sold online.  I built a modified version of it for my 935.  See my "PM935-TV Arrives" thread.  This is an old design and needs to be updated for the current design of the impact wrench.  All of the hole locations have changed slightly.  The HF 3/8" butterfly are currently on sale.  However, getting one that works without leaks can be a problem.   Mike referred to it as a crap shoot.   I must have bought six of them and returned three for bad air leaks.  Fortunately, there are three Harbor Freights close to me.  Only one store seemed to have a good lot.   The problem is with the swivel connection for the air inlet.    I tried to do an o-ring repair on one of them and could not find the right size.


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## wrmiller

Anyone have a paint recommendation that comes close to matching the mill's color?


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## Chris Bettis

Its to bad that stand wont fit in my oven,  id powder coat it for you. 

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## Duker

wrmiller said:


> Anyone have a paint recommendation that comes close to matching the mill's color?



Will aka Darkzero listed a color match in one of his threads. Rustoleum safety blue is good match for the logo and a Kurt vise.


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## zmotorsports

I showed the color in my PM1340GT lathe setup also.  I will go back and see if I can find the post#.

Mike.


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## zmotorsports

wrmiller said:


> Anyone have a paint recommendation that comes close to matching the mill's color?



Rustoleum 249076 Satin Heirloom White.  Post # 30 in my PM1340GT lathe arrival and setup will show the can.  It is close but not exact.

Mike.


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## wrmiller

Thanks Mike!  

I just checked UPS: The mill is in Denver, scheduled to be delivered tomorrow.


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## wrmiller

Right between snowstorms (next is late Sun./Mon.)


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## T Bredehoft

Color me green.


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## jer

You got it Bill, Congrats!


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## Rich V

Nice to see they changed the pallet design so that a pallet jack will fit easily.
Enjoy your new mill Bill.


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## wrmiller

Rich V said:


> Nice to see they changed the pallet design so that a pallet jack will fit easily.
> Enjoy your new mill Bill.



Thanks Rich. 

Yes, I was very relived to see this. It was one of the first things I checked when the driver opened the door, as I was a bit worried about it. The guys at PM did an outstanding job of crating this thing. Had more difficulty getting this thing open than on any of my other machines. Very well built.

And I was fairly accurate in my guesstimate of how much machine I could get up my severely inclined driveway without extra mechanisms. It took three of us plus the driver to get this thing into the garage. No way in heck we could have pushed a 2000 lb. mill up there.

Still debating a setup thread, as we have had a few of these already. Don't want to bore the folks here.


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## Cheeseking

Jim Wilson said:


> Not a PM-935 - but here's what I did with my PM-932V.  I used some really heavy duty (1200 pounds each) 6in diameter casters,  fixed on the "back" side and swivel on the "front" side  - and welded up a dolly that the mill base basically drops into.  The base is bolted down to the dolly using the factory bolt holes.  I just got the mill finally mounted up on the dolly this past weekend - and it seems to work good.  I wanted something that would allow me to move it around the shop if I needed to,  but fix it in place if needed.    I have to turn the feet down by hand - but they give me a way to get the mill off the casters if needed.



Nice job on the base.  I like the concept and was going to do something similar but never followed thru.  The extra width it takes up was kinda what I wanted to design out but never could find a good way.   That and trying to keep it low profile as possible.  Of course one could also point out that added footprint gives stability!     
I found these on amazon and have them on my Tormach mill.   1,100# cap ea.  GD-80 Used the caster function a few times already.  Just another option.


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## wrmiller

Has anyone found a better users manual for this mill? Thanks.


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## Rich V

Bill
The JET mills are very close to the PMs.
Try this PDF http://content.jettools.com/assets/manuals/690008_man_EN.pdf

I wish I could find a better manual for the PM1340 but no luck.


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## wrmiller

Thanks!


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## wrmiller

OK, I can't find any reference to this thing in any manual I've looked at. So what is that slotted round thingie in the top center of the head. It appears to move the front pulleys up and down, from aligned with the back pulleys to offset by a fair amount.

The mill isn't powered yet, nor on it's stand so I'm just looking at this thing upside down and trying to figure out what it does.


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## Chris Bettis

wrmiller said:


> OK, I can't find any reference to this thing in any manual I've looked at. So what is that slotted round thingie in the top center of the head. It appears to move the front pulleys up and down, from aligned with the back pulleys to offset by a fair amount.
> 
> The mill isn't powered yet, nor on it's stand so I'm just looking at this thing upside down and trying to figure out what it does.


Picture?

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## JimDawson

wrmiller said:


> OK, I can't find any reference to this thing in any manual I've looked at. So what is that slotted round thingie in the top center of the head. It appears to move the front pulleys up and down, from aligned with the back pulleys to offset by a fair amount.
> 
> The mill isn't powered yet, nor on it's stand so I'm just looking at this thing upside down and trying to figure out what it does.



Nice mill, congratulations!

I think you are looking at the direct drive engage cam, this in conjunction with the back gear lever on the side allows you to shift between back gear and direct drive.  Note:  If you shift into back gear and direct drive is still engaged, it will lock the spindle.  Useful in some instances, but don't turn it on in that condition.

Also, the direct drive should engage with a solid click (or clunk) when it drops in.  You'll know it if it doesn't engage and you turn it on.  It will growel at you.....REALLY LOUD!


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## wrmiller

This thingie with the angled slot in it.


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## JimDawson

Yup, that it! direct drive cam!


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## wrmiller

Thanks Jim. Never operated a belt-driven mill before. Got spoiled by the VS.


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## Chris Bettis

That is one nice machine you have got yourself bill. 

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## wrmiller

Chris Bettis said:


> That is one nice machine you have got yourself bill.
> Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk



You've seen it in person. These pics don't do it justice. The table just gleams. And those voids I thought I had? Paint specs. Table is flawless. Finished cleaning it up today and other than some minor paint chips and the X-axis handwheels being loose, I have yet to find any issues. Still trying to figure out how to mount the VFD inside the column... 

Oh, I managed to get the control panel for the VFD mounted today. Put it right where the fwd/off/rev switch was. 

I'm not going to move the head or ram until we are ready to lift it off the pallet and place it on the stand. Which reminds me, I need to get to the hardware store and pick up some 5/8" allthread.


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## Chris Bettis

wrmiller said:


> You've seen it in person. These pics don't do it justice. The table just gleams. And those voids I thought I had? Paint specs. Table is flawless. Finished cleaning it up today and other than some minor paint chips and the X-axis handwheels being loose, I have yet to find any issues. Still trying to figure out how to mount the VFD inside the column...
> 
> Oh, I managed to get the control panel for the VFD mounted today. Put it right where the fwd/off/rev switch was.
> 
> I'm not going to move the head or ram until we are ready to lift it off the pallet and place it on the stand. Which reminds me, I need to get to the hardware store and pick up some 5/8" allthread.


We also need to make a 5/8 transfer punch.. 

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## wrmiller

Ok. What if I just measure the bolt spacing and give you the numbers? Or am I missing something here?


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## Chris Bettis

wrmiller said:


> Ok.


A left over chunk of allthread will work just turn to a 60deg point and we can makeshift harden it. Do you have an oxy torch?

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## wrmiller

Chris Bettis said:


> A left over chunk of allthread will work just turn to a 60deg point and we can makeshift harden it. Do you have an oxy torch?
> Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk



No. Just a little propane torch I use for small stuff.


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## JimDawson

wrmiller said:


> Still trying to figure out how to mount the VFD inside the column...



You have that nice big panel on the side of the column.  Maybe mount the VFD high on the panel, and punch a couple of conduit holes in the lower portion?


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## wrmiller

JimDawson said:


> You have that nice big panel on the side of the column.  Maybe mount the VFD high on the panel, and punch a couple of conduit holes in the lower portion?



I thought about that, as I have two access panels on the left side of the column, but it would be a pain if I have to get to the front panel to change any parameters.


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## JimDawson

wrmiller said:


> I thought about that, as I have two access panels on the left side of the column, but it would be a pain if I have to get to the front panel to change any parameters.



Once it's set up you will never have to change parameters again.


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## wrmiller

JimDawson said:


> Once it's set up you will never have to change parameters again.



True...I just don't like the idea of this thing only attached to a sheet metal panel and sitting loose while I'm poking at it with my fingers. 

I'll figure something out. Thanks for the ideas dude.


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## Rich V

Hi Bill
I didn't realize you had the pulley version of the mill. Use this JET mill manual instead of the the first one I posted. Page 11 has the details on the speed change lever.
http://content.jettools.com/assets/manuals/690082_man_EN.pdf


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## maker of things

wrmiller said:


> This thingie with the angled slot in it.


Bill congrats on the mill!  Sheesh, you're going to need a rigger by the time you move back to Arizona.  The new updated Bridgeport manual covers operations that possibly are the same as well. http://www.hardingeus.com/usr/pdf/Knee Mills/SeriesIOperation.pdf  Having not put my mitts on a PM-935 can't say for sure, but I'm hoping they are in relatively the same place and do the same thing for the someday when I can order one too. 
Don't forget to move the corresponding in/out lever too.  Failing to do so will force bad words out of your mouth!


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## coolidge

wrmiller said:


> True...I just don't like the idea of this thing only attached to a sheet metal panel and sitting loose while I'm poking at it with my fingers.
> 
> I'll figure something out. Thanks for the ideas dude.



I'd mount an electrical box on the back of the machine honestly, its not just the VFD right but relays, low voltage power supply for the buttons/pot, power in, power disconnect, and knowing you allow room for future electrical/electronic mods. Speaking of which Maxi TorqueRite power drawbar or you wear womens shoes.


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## wrmiller

Hey Jon: FYI, the BP manual only covers variable speed. No belt drive descriptions.

Rich V: Perfect, thanks! My lever for pivoting the motor is different, but everything else is the same. Gonna print this out and keep it in the tool box. 

coolidge: keeping this one very simple. No relays or power supply. Just a fwd/off/rev switch, a 10k pot, and a e-stop button (the control box was already made up for me)


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## JimDawson

wrmiller said:


> True...I just don't like the idea of this thing only attached to a sheet metal panel and sitting loose while I'm poking at it with my fingers.
> 
> I'll figure something out. Thanks for the ideas dude.




Call me crazy, but many times I just throw the VFD up on the bench and punch away.  Nobody ever accused me of being sane.


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## wrmiller

ROFLMAO!


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## coolidge

wrmiller said:


> coolidge: keeping this one very simple.



LOL yeah and I'm going to stop drinking and smoking and chasing women.


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## wrmiller

Really?


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## Chris Bettis

coolidge said:


> LOL yeah and I'm going to stop drinking and smoking and chasing women.


We all know this one won't stay stock to long.  Maybe not el hefé extreme but still not stock.  

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## zmotorsports

Looks great Bill.  Congratulations my friend.

Mike.


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## wrmiller

Thanks Mike. 

Interestingly, I was looking at the pics of the 935TS on PM's website and noticed that the pic of the left side of the mill shows a right angle fitting on the smaller access door with some cables coming out. Looks like Matt and company mount these VFDs on the inside of that panel.


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## wrmiller

Has anyone programmed one of these wj200s for a 935? Or can I just start with the parameters that someone gave me for the 1340GT?


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## JimDawson

Bill, you want to set up the VFD with your motor name plate values for voltage, current, and base RPM.  Also make sure the motor is wired for low voltage (230V).  To start with I would also set the accel to about 3 sec, and the decel to around 5 sec.  Unless I'm forgetting something this should get you going from the key pad on the VFD, then after its running, program it for the remote panel operation.  A lot less confusing that way.

I have a manual so if you need to get into it deeper, let me know and I'll grab it.


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## mksj

VFD program parameters would be a different for some of the settings, do you plan on using momentary switches for 3 wire or sustained switches for 2 wire. Input parameters would be different. With 3 wire the machine cannot auto-start, but there is another command to prevent this with 2 wire with a voltage drop out.   Braking would probably be fixed at something like 2 seconds (single stage), acceleration probably 5 seconds. Not sure what other functions you would want, on my mill I have a threading setting which cuts the turning speed, and has an auto-reverse set off the quill stop.  Would auto-tune the VFD to the motor. I can but together a parameter file if needed.

Jim's suggestion of putting the VFD in the machine, may not be unreasonable, can't see doing any program changes once it is up and running. There is always the USB port.


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## wrmiller

I didn't buy the switches nor the box, but the switches look like plastic versions of those you suggested I buy for the 1340. The fwd/off/rev switch takes one wire in, two out the top. Not a momentary switch. The input wire runs through the e-stop switch, so I assume I would connect that wire (black, which is running through the e-stop) to terminal 'L'. From the e-stop it goes to the fwd/off/rev switch and the outputs (red, white) I 'assume' would go to the fwd and rev inputs on the input terminals (terminals 1 and 2 respectively?). The other three wires are from the pot which would have the low side go to 'L', centertap to 'O', and high side to 'H'. I think.

I don't have any relays or illuminated switches that require power.


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## JimDawson

I looked through the manual, I think you have the wiring figured out.


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## wrmiller

Jim: What did you mean by "make sure the motor is wired for low voltage (230v)? There is no Hi/Lo motor speed switch like I see on some 3-phase lathes. Just a fwd/off/rev drum switch which i replaced with my little control box.


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## brav65

Hey Bill I somehow missed the arrival of your new Mill.  Congratulations, that is a beautiful looking mill.  We are going to have to get some people to move out of Arizona before you get here so that you can mov all that iron down to Tucson!


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## JimDawson

That looked like a standard 9 lead, dual voltage motor.  I couldn't read the tag well, but it seemed to be 220/380 Volt.  You'll have to look on the data tag to see what the wiring diagram looks like.  The normal U.S.A standard is L1-1,7  L2-2,8  L3-3,9 and 4,5,6 connected together for low voltage.  I think that's what I could read in the picture, but not absolutely positive.


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## wrmiller

brav65 said:


> Hey Bill I somehow missed the arrival of your new Mill.  Congratulations, that is a beautiful looking mill.  We are going to have to get some people to move out of Arizona before you get here so that you can mov all that iron down to Tucson!



Hey Brooks, The thread title is a bit misleading in that I originally was just asking for some help with stand designs. Wasn't going to tell anyone that I bought yet another toy. Oh well. And no, I won't be needing a bunch of extra space for the toys when I come back to AZ (looking like the Queen Creek area now).

I'm going to be down to just the 1340 and 935 here shortly. I have a eager apprentice now whom I gave a good deal on the SB 8k and the PM25 to get him started in metalworking, and it looks like I may be helping out a friend with El Hefe in a few weeks. Going to kinda miss everybody.  

I'll post a few more pics and comments once we get this thing on it's stand (it's being built as we speak) and functional.


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## wrmiller

JimDawson said:


> That looked like a standard 9 lead, dual voltage motor.  I couldn't read the tag well, but it seemed to be 220/380 Volt.  You'll have to look on the data tag to see what the wiring diagram looks like.  The normal U.S.A standard is L1-1,7  L2-2,8  L3-3,9 and 4,5,6 connected together for low voltage.  I think that's what I could read in the picture, but not absolutely positive.



Your right Jim. Here's the plate on the motor:






According to PM, it's wired for 220 3-phase. So I'm thinking I can use the existing wire from the motor to the VFD and then make a cable out of my 12 ga. 4-wire to plug into the wall.


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## JimDawson

Sounds like it will work fine.    Just remember you don't need the neutral (normally white) in the 4 wire cable to the wall for the VFD.


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## wrmiller

JimDawson said:


> Sounds like it will work fine.    Just remember you don't need the neutral (normally white) in the 4 wire cable to the wall for the VFD.



So just the two hots and chassis ground? (I'm a microprocessor guy...not an electrician  )


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## JimDawson

wrmiller said:


> So just the two hots and chassis ground? (I'm a microprocessor guy...not an electrician  )



That's all you need!


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## Chris Bettis

I believe I have a decent length of 3 wire cable laying around, we can swap it out for the 4 wire. I'll double check on that.

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## wrmiller

Chris Bettis said:


> I believe I have a decent length of 3 wire cable laying around, we can swap it out for the 4 wire. I'll double check on that.
> Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk



That would work too!


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## Chris Bettis

wrmiller said:


> That would work too!


Nevermind. It was 4 wire... 

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## wrmiller

LOL...


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## mksj

You may consider bringing in 4 wire to your machine, the VFD only needs 2 hots and a ground. I have accessory electrical boxes/outlets on my mill to run 230V equipment (axis drives, coolant pump)  and 120V (DRO, lights). I only have a single extension cord running to the mill. If you are adding an electrical box, use a master power switch, you can put a DIN rail and drop in supplemental breakers or fuses for the different breakout circuits. Automation Direct supplemental DIN rail breakers are ~$20 a unit.


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## Chris Bettis

Nice ill look into it. Im waiting currently for a more permanent electrical solution before I take that plunge. 

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## wrmiller

mksj said:


> Would auto-tune the VFD to the motor. I can but together a parameter file if needed.
> 
> Jim's suggestion of putting the VFD in the machine, may not be unreasonable, can't see doing any program changes once it is up and running. There is always the USB port.



Dude, I completely missed this. If you have the time and don't mind, I'd love a parameter file. The one you did for my 1340GT was perfect. 

What's "auto-tune"? Pretty sure I didn't do that with the lathe. Should I go back and do this? 

And I like the idea of the USB port. May have to put a connector on the access panel. Thanks!


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## wrmiller

Just about ready for the stand. I need to cut the sides off the pallet (seems a crime, this pallet is very well built) to get the 2T hoist in position. We're going to pick this thing up just enough to clear the pallet, then slide the stand under the mill. Once bolted to the stand I'll not lift this thing again.

Size/footprint wise, the 935 is near identical to my 12z. The 12z has a larger table, but the one on the 935 is thicker. And you should see the size of the screws on the 935. The 935 on it's pallet sits 8.5" off the concrete. Chris is telling me that the stand he is building will have the mill at the same height. At that height, the hi/low range lever on the front right is just below eye level. This means I'll be stooping a bit, but hopefully it won't be too bad.

Just for giggles...







For the more observant: I have the head rotated 180 degrees to better balance the weight. This puts the eyelet near centered on the column and I hope to be able to move the table forward or back to balance the lift. And I did ask Matt if I could lift by the eyelet. He says they do it all the time.


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## Chris Bettis

wrmiller said:


> Just about ready for the stand. I need to cut the sides off the pallet (seems a crime, this pallet is very well built) to get the 2T hoist in position. We're going to pick this thing up just enough to clear the pallet, then slide the stand under the mill. Once bolted to the mill I'll not lift this thing again.
> 
> Size/footprint wise, the 935 is near identical to my 12z. The 12z has a larger table, but the one on the 935 is thicker. And you should see the size of the screws on the 935. The 935 on it's pallet sits 8.5" off the concrete. Chris is telling me that the stand he is building will have the mill at the same height. At that height, the hi/low range lever on the front right is just below eye level. This means I'll be stooping a bit, but hopefully it won't be too bad.
> 
> Just for giggles...
> 
> View attachment 121564
> 
> 
> For the more observant: I have the head rotated 180 degrees to better balance the weight. This puts the eyelet near centered on the column and I hope to be able to move the table forward or back to balance the lift. And I did ask Matt if I could lift by the eyelet. He says they do it all the time.


Im workin on it!

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## wrmiller




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## maker of things

Will your shop crane reach high enough?


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## wrmiller

I don't see why not. The 935's attachment point is lower, and I only need to lift it a couple of inches or so. The attachment point/strap's rings on the 12z had me having to extend the hoist a lot higher to overcome the tilt of the 12z when I lifted it. I'll have a harder time getting the 12z off it's stand.


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## jds

Hey Bill,
Wiring up the VFD/controls for the mill is a piece of cake, compared to the 1340 lathe.  Looks like you already have plently of help.
Congrats on the mill.
JD


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## wrmiller

jds said:


> Hey Bill,
> Wiring up the VFD/controls for the mill is a piece of cake, compared to the 1340 lathe.  Looks like you already have plently of help.
> Congrats on the mill.
> JD



Thanks JD. 

Do you remember what parameters you had to set up for the mill?


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## jds

I try and find that paper I wrote everything on and get back to you Sir.


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## jds

Bill, 
I used the eyelet and a two ton cherry picker to position mine.  I did not have any problems doing it alone.  Other then the mill wanted to kick to the rear a bit.  Moved it with the head upside down, same way it was shipped.
JD


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## wrmiller

jds said:


> Bill,
> I used the eyelet and a two ton cherry picker to position mine.  I did not have any problems doing it alone.  Other then the mill wanted to kick to the rear a bit.  Moved it with the head upside down, same way it was shipped.
> JD



Good to know, thanks. 

When I told Matt I was going to swing the head around back, he seem surprised and commented that he'd "not thought of that". He agrees that this might just balance the mill better for one person lift jobs. I've modded my shop hoist a bit (surprise) with some stronger/thicker pieces so I'm fairly certain that it should handle this no problem.


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## GA Gyro

Hey Bill,

Congrats on the new mill...
I have a 935TS (pully drive) also...

It is a GREAT machine!

You will like that mill!


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## wrmiller

GA Gyro said:


> Hey Bill,
> 
> Congrats on the new mill...
> I have a 935TS (pully drive) also...
> 
> It is a GREAT machine!
> 
> You will like that mill!



I like it already. 

I'll like it even more once I get it up on it's stand and operational.


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## Smudgemo

Bill, I didn't read all of the posts in this thread, but I have the Hitachi VFD for my 935 and got these parameters from Matt as a starting point:
*F001 60.00*
*F002 2.00*
*A001 01*
*A002 01*
*B037 01*
*B031 10*
*B091 01*
I think I made a few changes, but don't recall what.  Once it's up and running properly I lose interest in the details...

-Ryan


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## wrmiller

The stand is getting close. Chris says he may have it done by the end of the weekend. There were a few workarounds necessary to get all the parts to work (hey, the steel was free...) but Chris used  some math program to test it to 16000 lbs before anything yielded. Should be good enough for a 1500 lb. mill.


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## jds

Bill, 
I lost my mill vfd paperwork, I started out like smudgemo,  check the Carrier freq...B083, I think,  to reduce the motor whine.
I just have a on off switch, a forward/reverse switch and a speed pot.  I am not using any DC braking or anything special.  
JD


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## wrmiller

Ok, thanks for looking.


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## Jim Wilson

Cheeseking said:


> Nice job on the base.  I like the concept and was going to do something similar but never followed thru.  The extra width it takes up was kinda what I wanted to design out but never could find a good way.   That and trying to keep it low profile as possible.  Of course one could also point out that added footprint gives stability!
> I found these on amazon and have them on my Tormach mill.   1,100# cap ea.  GD-80 Used the caster function a few times already.  Just another option.




I was worried a little bit about the extra width - but in the end the width does not matter because the mill table sticks out further than the wheels do anyway.  The casters are 6" diameter and are rated for something like 1200 pounds each.  I can move the mill pretty easily myself just by grabbing two sides of the coolant tray on the base.   It's a little unwieldy - sometimes I've got to move it back and forth a couple of times before the casters will roll easily because I think they take a "set" - but it pretty much worked out the way I hoped it would.

Those casters you've got are the same ones I have on my Stronghand welding table.  They seem to be good - but I've found that their small diameter is a bit of a pain - I've got to be really careful that the floor is clean when I try to move the table - because the small diameter casters will get hung up on even small pieces of junk on the floor


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## wrmiller

Just a FYI for those 935TS owners who install a VFD: You might want to install some type of 'power on' indicator. The little control panel I installed on mine had a F/O/R switch, a pot, and a e-stop button, but no power indicator. After leaving my mill powered overnight a few times, I decided to fix the situation by installing an illuminated e-stop button. It glows bright red, so I'm not likely to miss it when powering down the shop.


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## Dman1114

I did the same thing with my Lathe......   I really need to stop looking at these 935 post.   Man i really want one


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## GA Gyro

Dman1114 said:


> I did the same thing with my Lathe......   I really need to stop looking at these 935 post.   Man i really want one



While officially I am not gonna encourage anyone to spend the $$$...
I will say if one gets a PM935 (TS or TV)... 
They will certainly NOT regret it...


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## Duker

wrmiller said:


> Just a FYI for those 935TS owners who install a VFD: You might want to install some type of 'power on' indicator. The little control panel I installed on mine had a F/O/R switch, a pot, and a e-stop button, but no power indicator. After leaving my mill powered overnight a few times, I decided to fix the situation by installing an illuminated e-stop button. It glows bright red, so I'm not likely to miss it when powering down the shop.
> 
> View attachment 125816



I am sitting here trying to figure out where Bill got that colorful table cover accessory. I think Bill is subconsciously already in retirement picturing himself in his Bermuda shorts basking in the AZ sun versus chilly CO!


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## mksj

At Christmas time he will probably add more lights and put a star on the top.


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## wrmiller

Hey, it's what the wife handed me when I asked for an old towel.


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## GA Gyro

I think I am gonna do the garage sales this weekend...
And find a set of designer towels for covers in my shop...

Gotta stay in style you know...


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## wrmiller

After all this I'm certainly not going to post a pic of the beautiful maroon heavy cotton sheet the wife got me to cover the lathe with...


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## zmotorsports

GA Gyro said:


> While officially I am not gonna encourage anyone to spend the $$$...
> I will say if one gets a PM935 (TS or TV)...
> They will certainly NOT regret it...



^^Agreed.

And Bill, I wasn't going to say anything about the colorful "cover" but it looks like others said if for me.  You are braver than I am, I couldn't have posted that picture, not with this group.

Mike.


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## wrmiller

To close the thread, I'd like to show the 935 in his new home. He'll likely stay right there until I can pack the shop up and move back to AZ, hopefully in the next 2-3 years depending on how things go. I will say the 'shop' has come a long way in the 3 years since buying this house. And to think I started with a 7x16 Micro Mark lathe and a LMS mini-mill. 







Now it's time to get back to making toys, and parts for toys (the new Rubi).


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## AirWolf

Nice shop Bill! A bit envious of the elbow room many of you have


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## GA Gyro

wrmiller said:


> To close the thread, I'd like to show the 935 in his new home. He'll likely stay right there until I can pack the shop up and move back to AZ, hopefully in the next 2-3 years depending on how things go. I will say the 'shop' has come a long way in the 3 years since buying this house. And to think I started with a 7x16 Micro Mark lathe and a LMS mini-mill.
> 
> View attachment 125979
> 
> 
> Now it's time to get back to making toys, and parts for toys (the new Rubi).



Wish I had a nice shop like that... both the floor space and the ceiling height! 
And he has a projector to watch movies while he works... grin!

BTW: EXCELLENT choice in equipment!


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## Chris Bettis

Top notch shop, top notch equipment. And a top notch guy. Lookin good Bill!

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## Rich V

"And to think I started with a 7x16 Micro Mark lathe and a LMS mini-mill."
Machining tools are worse than crack, after your first taste you just have to have more!
I'm in Prescott, look me up when you move back to the great state of Arizona.


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## zmotorsports

Nice looking workshop Bill.

Mike.


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## wrmiller

Rich V said:


> "And to think I started with a 7x16 Micro Mark lathe and a LMS mini-mill."
> Machining tools are worse than crack, after your first taste you just have to have more!
> I'm in Prescott, look me up when you move back to the great state of Arizona.



Will do. There seems to be a plethora of hobby machinist types in the state of AZ. I'll be in good company.


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## wrmiller

Oh...one more thing. Someone here expressed an interest (Mark?) in the EL700 and/or electronic touch probe. Two things I have discovered: One, the breakaway (read plastic) touch probe is not very accurate. I am upgrading to the steel touch probe. And two, I like to capture x-axis datums from the left (maybe because I'm left handed?) and was not getting the readings I was expecting. In order to capture from the left, you need to reverse the x-axis directions in the DRO. DroPros was great in helping me figure that one out.   Y-axis captures normally from the front with no changes in the DRO.


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