# How to free-up a rusted Albrecht  drill chuck



## Alcap (Jan 12, 2020)

In the collets of the Clausing 8520 mill I picked up last week were 3 Albrecht keyless drill chucks , cleaned up 2 but the smallest is rusted fast I believe in the open position it's a 0-1/8"  At least from what I could read . I'm soaking it in PBlaster but I don't think that's going to do it . Also the collects that came with it have some surface rust Tried using a red Scotch Brite pads and PBlaster on one , came out so-so , any recommendations for those ?


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## Latinrascalrg1 (Jan 12, 2020)

Ever Consider a round of De-Rusting using a DIY Electrolysis setup?


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## Alcap (Jan 12, 2020)

Would that be OK to use on these chucks and collect ?


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## Latinrascalrg1 (Jan 12, 2020)

I would think so but you need to make sure for yourself so that you can do so safely!


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## cathead (Jan 12, 2020)

Standard DOT3 brake fluid contains polyglycols which are hygroscopic.  That's what I would try first if it were my chuck.


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## Ulma Doctor (Jan 12, 2020)

electrolytic rust removal works wonderfully
phosphoric acid, as well as evaporust also work very well.

dependent on the degree of oxidation, it may take a couple days to see the desired result- regardless of the method

i have used all 3 methods, they all work!


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## cathead (Jan 12, 2020)

Just for fun, I looked up Kroil which is purported to be great for rusted stuff.  It contains glycols!   It's probably good stuff
but very expensive for what it is...


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## Bob Korves (Jan 12, 2020)

All the information above is good.  Let it soak fully submerged, take your time, and do not force anything.  It will probably loosen up over time.  I would use Evaporust after getting the oil out of it, but you have already gone a different direction, so just use the Evaporust or Kroil.  Those little chucks (I have one) are super expensive, so try not to add any additional damage by being rough with it.  They are beautiful and useful and highly accurate drill chucks for small work.  Parts are available for them.


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## Alcap (Jan 13, 2020)

Brought it with me to work and sprayed Kroil on it keeping in in a plastic bag so not wasting so much of it . I do have a heat gun would that help the Kroil work better ?


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## ThinWoodsman (Jan 13, 2020)

cathead said:


> I looked up Kroil which is purported to be great for rusted stuff. It contains glycols! It's probably good stuff
> but very expensive for what it is...



Kroil is fantastic. You only really use a few drops at a time (I keep mine in a needle applicator bottle); bought an 8oz can three years ago and it's maybe half gone. The penetrant is wintergreen oil, so you can use something like MMO if you want a cheaper replacement that will do almost as well.


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## Alcap (Jan 13, 2020)

Success ! I stood it up on end filled it up with Kroil then used the heat gun until I couldn’t touch it with my fingers saw air bubbles and Kroil coming out the bottom just used my hands to work it free


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## Bob Korves (Jan 13, 2020)

Now take it apart and clean out all the crud in it, before the rusty grit inside destroys everything with use.  It will probably need new bearings at the least.  Here is the tutorial on disassembling, cleaning up, and reassembling Albrecht chucks, posted by our own Mikey from this forum:


			Rebuilding an Albrecht Drill Chuck – MachinistBlog.com
		

 It is the best tutorial out there on rehabbing Albrecht chucks, better than the factory information.  I have never had one of the tiny Albrecht chucks apart, but they are probably just a smaller version of the bigger ones.


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## ACHiPo (Jan 13, 2020)

Bob Korves said:


> Now take it apart and clean out all the crud in it, before the rusty grit inside destroys everything with use.  It will probably need new bearings at the least.  Here is the tutorial on disassembling, cleaning up, and reassembling Albrecht chucks, posted by our own Mikey from this forum:
> 
> 
> Rebuilding an Albrecht Drill Chuck – MachinistBlog.com
> ...


I followed Mike's instructions when I rebuilt my Albrecht.  Highly recommended.  Make sure you count the ball bearings--they like to fly--and a rebuild kit will look like it's missing one (but it's not).


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## Alcap (Jan 14, 2020)

My little cuck is slightly different then the one in the rebuild article but good reading anyway . To be honest I'm a little leery of goofing if up if I take it apart . Would a ultra sonic cleaner work if the correct fluid was in it ?  Then just blow it out dry , then oil ?


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## Bob Korves (Jan 14, 2020)

Alcap said:


> My little cuck is slightly different then the one in the rebuild article but good reading anyway . To be honest I'm a little leery of goofing if up if I take it apart . Would a ultra sonic cleaner work if the correct fluid was in it ?  Then just blow it out dry , then oil ?


It is important to get all the rust grit and petrified oil and/or grease out of it.  The external fits are tight enough that some of the rust inside is likely to not make its way out unless you dismantle it, inspect it for more damage, and clean it up really well.  If the ball races are damaged, they would need to be reground to properly engage the balls.  The balls very likely will also need to be replaced.  If you do not do these things, I think you may cause more damage to the chuck with not very much usage.  You also might find it in good shape or very poor shape, but there is only one way to know for sure, and that is to check it.  "A proper inspection is worth 100 expert opinions."


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## mikey (Jan 14, 2020)

I haven't worked on one of those little chucks but I would agree with Bob - I would take it apart, clean it, inspect it and go from there. The precision that Albrecht applies to all their chucks should also apply to this one. Rust will easily damage those precision surfaces so for me, I wouldn't even consider not tearing it down.


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## Latinrascalrg1 (Jan 14, 2020)

Maybe consider putting it inside a large ziplock bag to open the case as a safeguard against any small flying pieces and maybe video the event as you slowly open the case to try and catch how its assembled just in case!!!


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