# Bought An Old Molo, But Not What I Expected?



## great white (Jan 12, 2016)

My 10f came without a MOLO so I grabbed one off ebay.

It was beat up, but the price reflected it (ie: cheap). I wasn't worried about the condition as I'm after the information, not to look pretty on my shelf. I have plans to laminate the beat up covers and re-spine it so now worries there. It will stand up to dirty hands/glove in the shop better that way anyways.

I read the couple documents about MOLO's on the forum, but it seems I didn't get what I expected.

I did get exactly what the seller listed it as, so it's my misunderstanding somewhere.

It's definitely an "Atlas" MOLO, written right on the front. "clausing corporation" on the inside title page. The cover is grey in color. It say's 26th edition, which I though was 1971. The reprint date also stops at 1971 on the same page.

Now, I was pretty sure I understood that one would have the 10F additions and metric threading being a later edition. But when I flip to the threading chapter, I only see general thread cutting info, cutting on a 12" (QC and non QC) lathe and cutting on a 6" lathe.

The metric info is no big deal. The supplements are easily downloaded, printed and inserted into the book.

But is this particular book just for 12 and 6" lathes? Seems odd to cover a 12" and a 6" but not a 10".

Did I misunderstand the documents in the downloads?

I know the info is all mostly applicable to my 10F, but is there something I should or should not apply to my lathe form this version?

I'm just a little thrown off since it mentions a 6" and a 12", but not a 10"....

Anyone know exactly what I've got on my hands here?

Or better yet: what should I print off to include in the book for when I re-spine it?

We've got the little "finger machine" at work, so adding pages is no problem, not is getting a bigger "finger spine" to hold more pages....


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## great white (Jan 12, 2016)

Here's some pics if it helps:













Also, I don't understand the "V2" type thing guys refer to on the forum (other than it stands for "version" in some capacity) so please don't use it unless you want to quantify it by an understandable metric like year or something similar. It won't really mean anything to me and I actually find it a bit confusing....


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## Gunner (Jan 12, 2016)

Through the years of Atlas lathe and MOLO production, Atlas for the most part kept the MOLO current with the lathes being sold that year.  Perhaps unfortunately, they did that by replacement instead of addition.  You bought a copy of V9, which directly covers the final version of the 12".  Plus has 6" threading charts.  If you go back and look at the version selection chart, you will see that the best editions for the 10F without QCGB are 1937V2 (plus loose 10F Threading Supplement), 1937V4, or 1955V6.  If you read through the MOLO History document, you will see that almost all reference to the 10" was removed and replaced by late 12" material at V8.

I just noticed a typo in the paragraph on V8.  The sentence "The remainder of the manual is initially the same as in the previous 1955V5 and 1955V." should read "The remainder of the manual is initially the same as in the previous 1955V6 and 1955V7.  Unfortunately, I can no longer correct it on here.

Robert D


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## great white (Jan 12, 2016)

So if I just print off a 10F threading supplement and drop it in the manual the rest of the info is still good for the 10 F?

I'm no expert on the atlas, but isn't the 12" essentially a little "taller" 10F? Which would mean the rest of the MOLO I have should be good enough?

Charts and tables are obviously still good....


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## great white (Jan 12, 2016)

I think I've answered my own question. 

I downloaded a PDF copy of the 10F supplement, cleaned it up in acrobat (removed messiness and imposed watermarks that were not original), I'll size it to the MOLO I have and print it off. 

I'll laminate the covers to prevent further deterioration and then re-bind it all together with the spine tool at work. 

That should make a decent MOLO copy with the information I need.


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## great white (Jan 12, 2016)

After another look and comparing the MOLO in my hands to an earlier copy I found on the net, I've determined that there's enough differences/omissions in part 8 (lathe attachments) that I'm just going to reprint the entire section 7 and insert it when I do the re-spine.


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## pdentrem (Jan 12, 2016)

Do you have 2 of 96 tooth change gears or does your set stop at 64? The reason I ask is that my 10D had the 96s while the newer 10Fs did not. You can use the 12 Standard Change gear chart if you do not have the 96s and do have the stud gear (16/32 compound gear) that is behind the 32 tooth spindle gear. I had a 10D and the same MOLO as well and I used the charts in it without any issues after I added the stud gear. I still had the original thread chart that was riveted to the inside of the change gear cover.
Pierre


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## great white (Jan 12, 2016)

double post


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## great white (Jan 12, 2016)

pdentrem said:


> Do you have 2 of 96 tooth change gears or does your set stop at 64? The reason I ask is that my 10D had the 96s while the newer 10Fs did not. You can use the 12 Standard Change gear chart if you do not have the 96s and do have the stud gear (16/32 compound gear) that is behind the 32 tooth spindle gear. I had a 10D and the same MOLO as well and I used the charts in it without any issues after I added the stud gear. I still had the original thread chart that was riveted to the inside of the change gear cover.
> Pierre


I can't recall.

I don't think I have the 96's.....will have to check.

Edit: just squeezed into the shop (full of stuff from my boat right now). My gear train stops at 64.


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## pdentrem (Jan 12, 2016)

At least your boat is not covered in ice like the car across the lake from me is. Even tonight the local station did a stand up beside it for the 5pm news boardcast.
Saturday evening I was cooking pork chops on the barbecue in a shirt and tonight just forget it!
Pierre


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## great white (Jan 12, 2016)

pdentrem said:


> At least your boat is not covered in ice like the car across for lake from me is. Even tonight the local station did a stand up beside it for the 5pm news boardcast.
> Saturday evening I was cooking pork chops on the barbecue in a shirt and tonight just forget it!
> Pierre


same down here. 

+10 yesterday, -5 today.....

Smoked a full brisket on Sunday. Was tasty!


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## Gunner (Jan 13, 2016)

Pierre,
He said that he has a 10F, so he should have the stud gear and largest change gear should be 64T.

great white,
The 10F and the Sears 12" models up through 101.07403 shared many parts with it.  Pretty much everything except the FWD/REV gear box, countershaft bracket and a few more countershaft parts, and headstock casting, compound slide casting and tailstock casting.  The late 12" shares the change gears with the early 12" and 10F, and a few other parts here and there, but all of the major parts are different.  Although the threading charts in Part 7 of the MOLO you have should work with the 10F, you will be happier if you acquire a copy of V4.  They turn up on eBay all the time.  You'll just have to write the seller and ask whether or not there are any printed pages in Part 7 and if so, does the first page mention the Atlas 10" or the Sears 12".  Most sellers don't know enough about the book to know to include a photo of that page in their ad.  If the book is bound with plastic fingers (GBC), there is about a 50:50 chance it's the one you want.  If it is wire bound (actually a better method), the chances are only about 10:90.


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## great white (Jan 13, 2016)

Thanks for the advice Robert, but rather than do the run around and searching for the right (for mine) MOLO with eBay/online sellers, I just made one out of what I already have.

Sure, it might be a bit "bastardized" but it's going to get the job done for me, gives an old beat up book a new lease on life and keeps it from being turned into recycled toilet paper or egg cartons. That's always a good thing....

I laminated the front/rear covers and added a flat plastic finger spine:




That preserves it's hard earned "patina" and should keep it reasonably clean from now on in the shop. The new spine (old white one was just barely more than dust at this point) lets it lay nice and flat when open:




Lots of room in the spine to add more pages in the future if I need/want to.

I printed off a threading supplement and inserted it in the threading chapter:




I got the size "off" a little bit when I guillotined them, but that doesn't bug me at all.

Not that i'll likely ever need it, but now my book covers 6", 10" and 12" threading.



Then I compared the rest of my version with the docs in the downloads and a 1937 version I downloaded off the net.

Didn't like all the missing/deleted info in chapter 8 (Lathe Attachments), so I just printed that off and inserted it in front of the pages already there:




That put back all the missing info on some attachments and all the stuff like valve guide grinding, etc.

Oiling chart was different, so in that goes:




While I was at it, I printed off both of the oiling pages on letter sized paper and laminated it for wall mounting:




(nevermind my fat toes!)

Just for the heck of it, I ran off the lathe picture on 11X17 to make it a wall poster that I will eventually cover in clear mac-tac plastic:




It's nice and big, easy to see the arrows and numbers. But that's also the problem with it: I'm not sure I want it taking up that much wall space. Oh well, at least I have them one way or the other.

Then I finished it up with most of the "Lathe Care and Construction" chapter:




Mostly the stuff to cover the 10" as opposed to the 12".

I think that pretty much covers it all, other than a few differences in the "fluff" in the forward (which I didn't really care about).

So, I have lots of space left in that spine. Anyone think of something worth adding to my nice little reference book?

.


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## pdentrem (Jan 13, 2016)

Yes I know that Thank you. I was trying to explain that the 10f uses the same chart as the 12 in the MOLO.


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## great white (Jan 14, 2016)

The 12" chart gives different gear combinations than the 10" for the same thread so I'd need the 12" set for sure.

The bracket for the change gears (pictures) is different too so I'm not sure how useful the 12" chart would be for the 10".....
	

		
			
		

		
	




Good thing in found a copy of the thread supplement i guess.


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## pdentrem (Jan 14, 2016)

That is interesting, as once I added the stud gear I used the MOLO chart as it was easier to read that the one riveted to the door. So I sit corrected, but is not new.
Pierre


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## atlas ten (Jan 14, 2016)

The 10D has a different thread chart that the 10F also.  I have both these lathes. I have been looking for an original molo for the 10F with thread supplement. 
Jack

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## Gunner (Jan 15, 2016)

Jack,

The MOLO version that covers the 10D is what I called 1937V1.  The original has dark blue covers and all but the actual first printing (which I have only seen a catalog photo of) are spiral wire bound.  I have one, and also have a partially cleaned up PDF copy.  Unfortunately, the file size is much too large to upload either here or on Yahoo.

The versions for the 10F are either 1937V4 (which has the 10F Threading Supplement bound into Part 7) or 1937V2/3 with the loose 10F Supplement.  All of them show up on eBay from time to time but usually in order to ID the version, you have to write the seller and ask whether or not there is anything bound into Part 7, and if there is, does the first printed page mention Sears 12" or Atlas 10F 10".


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## Gunner (Jan 15, 2016)

great white said:


> So if I just print off a 10F threading supplement and drop it in the manual the rest of the info is still good for the 10 F?
> 
> I'm no expert on the atlas, but isn't the 12" essentially a little "taller" 10F? Which would mean the rest of the MOLO I have should be good enough?
> 
> Charts and tables are obviously still good....


Yes and no.  101.07362 through 101.07403 use the same change gear set as the 10F (up to 64T gears).  The change gear brackets are a little different but if you think of the stud gear as being the tumbler gear, the 10F threading charts will work.  However, MOLO 1937V5 has threading charts that show the tumbler gear.  And there was a Sears 12" loose Threading Supplement printed.

The 101.07360 through 101.07401 use the same change gears as the 10D and earlier (up to 96T gears).


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## Gunner (Jan 15, 2016)

great white said:


> Thanks for the advice Robert, but rather than do the run around and searching for the right (for mine) MOLO with eBay/online sellers, I just made one out of what I already have.
> 
> Sure, it might be a bit "bastardized" but it's going to get the job done for me, gives an old beat up book a new lease on life and keeps it from being turned into recycled toilet paper or egg cartons. That's always a good thing....



Lot of work but it looks useful.


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## atlas ten (Jan 15, 2016)

Oops. I am looking for chap 7 for my 10D. 
Jack

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## Gunner (Jan 16, 2016)

Jack,

This would only be found in MOLO 1937V1 (well, it is probably also in 1937V0, but I have never seen one of those).  I found a fairly decent PDF of it somewhere on the Internet (I didn't do the scanning and some pages are a little crooked).  The complete manual is nearly 100 MB but I just extracted Part 7 and it is about 16 MB.  Pages are formatted to 8-1/2 x 11.   I just uploaded it to DOWNLOADS.  It is in the Atlas-Craftsman area, under \Manuals\Atlas MOLO.


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## Sundossa12 (Jan 17, 2016)

I just picked up the 16th edition, Circa 1955.  In very good condition.


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## Gunner (Jan 17, 2016)

That is still OK for the change gear 10F so long as it has Timken bearings and a horizontal countershaft.  Coverage of vertical countershaft and babbit bearings was removed with this revision, and coverage of the QCGB was added.


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