# Tail stock modification



## iron man (Feb 15, 2014)

Hi I got tired of everytime I put my chuck in my tail stock I would only have about 2" of travel because when you install anything with a tang you must crank out the cylinder about 3/4" before it will clear the ejector. Plus the end cap has no bearings and is a poor design. 

Also everytime a bit would catch the chuck would come loose and one spin is enough that you have to re dress the tapper another poor design so I thought I would change it and see what I could come up with. All modifications are not final everything shown can be returned to stock.
	

		
			
		

		
	




I started by making a different end piece complete with bearings and a longer screw I also added a extra dial I had laying around.

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I then got a piece of hard chrome shaft cut a key in it bored and reamed the tapper. I also bored the other end to 3/4" and made a barrel with a slot milled in one end for the chuck or drill tang that got pressed in. The Chrome shaft is an 1 3/8 longer

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You can see here the tang holder pressed into place.

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You can see here I machined an acme thread out of brass and pressed it into place. You may ask why is it sticking out the end? It fits in the counter bore of the new end piece I made this allows extra travel.

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This is the remains of a cheap Igaging plastic depth gauge sold at Grizzly for about $14. I cut off all the stuff I dont need and shortened it.

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This is a little expaning plug I made like a bicycle stem to fit in the little oil plug that you never use the screw is a 6-32.

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Well how did it turn out?? instead of 2" of travel I now have 3 1/2" not bad the DRO works great and looks damn sexy on there!! Now for some more mods on the tail stock lock down soon to come.. And repaint the rest of the lathe... Thanks for lookin.. Ray


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## chuckorlando (Feb 15, 2014)

Nice. I think it turned out real well


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## Senna (Feb 15, 2014)

Very nice work.

It's now both more functional and better looking than it was.

I too am dissatisfied with the TS on my 12x36 and have been thinking about converting it to a starwheel driven TS like those on some Schaublin and Cazeneuve lathes.


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## iron man (Feb 15, 2014)

Thanks Chuck I should tell you I cut the key a little wider 3/16 and made a bigger pin I thought the stock one could shear off. With two bearings in the end cap I can give the handle a spin and it will travel a long ways nice and smooth I wish I would have done this sooner. Ray


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## brasssmanget (Feb 15, 2014)

I like it! Very nice work.


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## Hawkeye (Feb 15, 2014)

Very nice. Betcha can't use it without smiling.


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## iron man (Feb 15, 2014)

Hawkeye said:


> Very nice. Betcha can't use it without smiling.



That is correct it works so smooth and the extra length makes it less irritating. I always save all the old parts and try to make each modification so it can be reversed if wanted or needed. But that wont happen in my life. Ray


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## RandyM (Feb 17, 2014)

:thumbsup::thumbsup: No one will ever know. Nice job!


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## iron man (Feb 17, 2014)

Thanks Randy I am doing a tear down to clean and paint now its turning out nice using a hammertone Gray.. Ray


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## itsme_Bernie (Feb 17, 2014)

WHOH! That is a seriously fantastic mod!  My Heavy 10 only has 2-1/4 inches of tailstock travel...  Kind of ridiculous..    I wonder if I can find a way to work this into that?  

Thanks man!

Bernie


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## iron man (Feb 17, 2014)

I cannot see why not they are very similar if you have trouble locating a short piece of hard chrome shaft I have a local source its for hyd. cylinders.. Ray


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