# Dial Indicators



## kiwi_007 (Feb 6, 2022)

Some may think I have a problem, I seem to collect dial indicators, micrometers and, well just about all quality measuring tools.

Below is a photo of some of my dial indicators, as you will notice most are metric, this is because I do most of my work using the metric system. Although when I started school, imperial was "the" standard, but I hadn't finished school and it was changed to metric, I still used imperial until I made the conscious decision to go "metric" and now even though I do most of my work in metric I do use Imperial when it's called for (ie I'm too lazy to convert all the measurements).

Anyway, my favourite brand of dial indicator is "Compac". Some 24+ years ago I won an auction on Ebay, the auction was for a 10ths Starrett Last word and another dial indicator that was metric 0.01m. When they arrived I did rather like the "other" dial indicator which happened to be a Compac 213, this has proved to be a very nice repetitive and reliable indicator and between it and the Comapc P51G they are the two I use the most.

Recently I picked up an imperial Compac to add to my collection and it has made me look at all my dial indicators and made me question why none of my metric indicators have the resolution of the latest Compac I bought.

To save everyone doing the conversions, but you are most welcome to check that I'm right if I'm not please let me know
0.0001"  =  0.00254mm
0.0002  =  0.00508mm
0.0004  -  0.01016mm
0.0005  =  0.0127mm
0.001  =  0.0254mm
0.002  =  0.0508mm
0.004  =  0.1016mm
0.005  =  0.127mm

0.001mm  =  0.0000394"
0.01mm  =  0.000394"
0.07mm  =  0.002755897"
0.1mm  =  0.00394"
0.25mm  =  0.00984249"
0.4mm  =  0.01574798" 
0.5mm  =  0.01968498"

So if you look at the photo you will notice the dial indicator on the top left has markings every 0.001mm (1um or 0.0000394") and half a rotation is 0.07mm (0.0027"), but it has the shortest contact stem (8.6mm) and the dial is 33mm to give a bit of comparison the length of the contact stem on the Mitutoyo 513-404 is 18.7mm.

Most of the metric dial indicators I own have 1/2 rotation of the dial of either 0.25mm (0.0098") or 0.4mm (0.016"), the Mitutoyo 513-501 has 0.07mm (0.0027"), the Mahr 800SRM has 0.1mm (0.00394")
The Tesatest has the smallest dial 25.4mm, followed by the Compac 213 & 244LA 27mm, Mahr 800s & 800SL 30mm, Mitutoyo 513-501 & 513-504 are 33mm, Interapid 312-1 & Mitutoyo 512-404 38mm, and the largest at 40mm are the Compac 212GL, P51G, P3GA and Mahr 800SRM.

The dial indicator that made me study my dial indicators was the Compac P3GA, with a dial diameter of 40mm it's 1/2 rotation of the dial of 0.002" (0.0508mm) and divisions of 0.0001" (0.00254mm) it certainly looks the easiest to read. 
None of my other dial indicators have the large face 40mm or the 1/2 rotation of 0.002" (0.0508mm), 0.0001" (0.00254mm) divisions with a contact stem length of 16mm.

With age my eyes aren't as good as they used to be and the more crowded the dial the harder to read, I'm not sure what others think but what is your favourite dial indicator and why?


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## mksj (Feb 6, 2022)

Compac 215GA, although now sold under the Brown & Sharpe TESA name. Pretty much the only one I use anymore. Large 1.575" dial, 0.004" per revolution with a measuring range of 0.024" with high linearity and repeatability. My collection is not quite as many but I have a half dozen in mostly different configurations.



Getting older I am going blind, and only have one good eye...


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## RJSakowski (Feb 6, 2022)

mksj said:


> Compac 215GA, although now sold under the Brown & Sharpe TESA name. Pretty much the only one I use anymore. Large 1.575" dial, 0.0004" per revolution with a measuring range of 0.024" with high linearity and repeatability. My collection is not quite as many but I have a half dozen in mostly different configurations.
> View attachment 395308


I believe you mean .0004"/div?


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## graham-xrf (Feb 6, 2022)

You never have to "go metric", nor "go inches" if you have an established relatable "feel" for what is good, bad, good enough, etc. You can adopt a unit for the current task, and stay with it, and never feel the need to know what the equivalent is in the other units, unless you happen to need to get a particular dimension from a drawing, or to get something to fit. Doing the conversion is quick and easy, and once it suits the measure instrument you have handy, you are back to "comfortable".

Starting with the mass of conversions. Sensibly, you did realize that a list of inches in relatable integer increments yields a bunch of awkward numbers in millimetres, but you can, of course, make another table with the situation reversed, and see the awkward numbers in inches.

Like you, I had inches in part of my childhood. Darn, but I also had pounds, shillings, pence, florins and half-crowns, ha'pennies, ticky's bobs, quids, guineas, farthings and sixpences. Also pounds-weight, slugs, poundals, carets, and hundredweights! There can be _very_ strong attachments to what one is used to. Here in UK, the metric system was adopted 1818, yet in 1960's there was more formal legislation to get it more widely used, to reduce costs. We are metric throughout industry, but we have miles, and mph speeds and pints of beer. The money system absolutely had to be reformed in 1971, but was also used to mask a de-facto devaluation because of mad inflation!

I can move from one set of units to another, and be comfortable in either. As it happens, the US system (inches) was based on metric exact 2.54cm as a practical standard by Carl Johansson, and Henry Ford, somewhat ahead of the formal international bringing together of the US inch, being very slightly too large (I think), and the British inch being slightly too small (was it that way around?) I think it's great that these two guys got together, and used Jo-Blocks to make all engineering fit and work, and in effect, enforce a standard where governments could not.

What units you use, and some will swear by, is quite strongly related to what you grew up with before age 10. There is, of course, a whole bunch of comedy, and an apparent partly politically motivated aspect (at least there is in the UK). In South Africa, back in 1970s, they moved to metric with a will, using a simple brutal strategy. You could use inches all you liked, but they required that all _new_ stuff sold be metric. School rulers, your dial gauge, your lathe, whatever. They put up the new km road speed signs with covers, and switched the covers overnight at a weekend, and muddled through a few hours of chaos!

Here at HM, the demographic means we will see a leaning to inches and thous and tenths. Thus hang in there with America, Liberia, and Myanmar.
It does mean that we may find it convenient to have a metric micrometer as well as an inches version to hand


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## mmcmdl (Feb 6, 2022)

I haven't seen my favorite in quite some time . Way back when getting started , I bought a Mititoyo that I had to pay for it weekly out of my apprentice paycheck . This was my my first thus my favorite for no other reason . Over the years after accumulating 50 or so , they all do the same thing . For talking $$$$ indicators , I like my old Mahr Millimesses and Alina sets just because I know they're accurate .


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## RJSakowski (Feb 6, 2022)

graham-xrf said:


> You never have to "go metric", nor "go inches" if you have an established relatable "feel" for what is good, bad, good enough, etc. You can adopt a unit for the current task, and stay with it, and never feel the need to know what the equivalent is in the other units, unless you happen to need to get a particular dimension from a drawing, or to get something to fit. Doing the conversion is quick and easy, and once it suits the measure instrument you have handy, you are back to "comfortable".
> 
> Starting with the mass of conversions. Sensibly, you did realize that a list of inches in relatable integer increments yields a bunch of awkward numbers in millimetres, but you can, of course, make another table with the situation reversed, and see the awkward numbers in inches.
> 
> ...


You forgot to mention pints and stones.  As I recall, they are the two biggies.


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## graham-xrf (Feb 6, 2022)

@RJSakowski 
Heh heh! Yes indeed. At some stage around 1326, Edward II decreed an *inch* was three fat *barleycorns*. So check out what your shoe sizes are today. That we always have units hangovers is a human thing, and not particularly "American" or "Portuguese" or whatever. Folk are OK with getting to use all sorts of units they can see advantages for, but they will resent like hell any attempt to force anything on them. For a whole lot of stuff, there is no particular need to change, and there would only be some costs involved if you do.

We have much less problem if the machine we covet and love, and do need for the business, was made in Germany, or Taiwan, or if the lovely gal we are smitten by would respond to *carets* (or fractions thereof) much like Jackie Evancho as Kitty, (or pre-dating me a bit), say Marilyn Monroe + Jane Russell !

Let me try for some more..
*Fathoms. rods, perches, poles, bushels pecks, slugs*. *US gallons* defined via the Queen Anne wine *barrel*. What's a *ton*? Oh yes - 2200*lb*. Huh? No, that's a "*long ton*"! Go for 2000 pounds. Umm, it does not take long for somebody to tell you *pounds* is a mass, and what it weighs kind of depends where you are. 1000*kg* = 1 *metric ton*. Oh yeah, that's about 2200 *pounds weight*, is it not? Did someone say there were 5280 *yards* in a *mile?* What's a *furlong*? Oh yeah, one side of an *acre*. The short side is a surveyor's *chain* = 1 cricket pitch worth!

Just lately, I have been getting used to *eV* (electron volts), *barns* (as in, could hit the side of a barn), and *Angstrom* Units.
I am somewhat in envy of the @kiwi_007 collection of dial indicators. Wow! Wish I had some of that kit! 

[Edit - a "barn" is about the cross section area of a uranium nucleus ]


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## kiwi_007 (Feb 6, 2022)

mksj said:


> Compac 215GA, although now sold under the Brown & Sharpe TESA name. Pretty much the only one I use anymore. Large 1.575" dial, 0.004" per revolution with a measuring range of 0.024" with high linearity and repeatability. My collection is not quite as many but I have a half dozen in mostly different configurations.
> View attachment 395308
> 
> 
> Getting older I am going blind, and only have one good eye...


Mark, Thanks for that information about the 215GA, and I can certainly relate to that last sentence, although I've only had one eye for the last 40+ years


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## Winegrower (Feb 6, 2022)

mksj said:


> Compac 215GA, although now sold under the Brown & Sharpe TESA name. Pretty much the only one I use anymore. Large 1.575" dial, 0.004" per revolution with a measuring range of 0.024" with high linearity and repeatability. My collection is not quite as many but I have a half dozen in mostly different configurations.





RJSakowski said:


> I believe you mean .0004"/div?







RJ, this indicator shows 0.004 per revolution, 0.0001 per division, just as mksj says.


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## Arielht500 (Feb 6, 2022)

graham-xrf said:


> @RJSakowski
> Heh heh! Yes indeed. At some stage around 1326, Edward II decreed an *inch* was three fat *barleycorns*. So check out what your shoe sizes are today. That we always have units hangovers is a human thing, and not particularly "American" or "Portuguese" or whatever. Folk are OK with getting to use all sorts of units they can see advantages for, but they will resent like hell any attempt to force anything on them. For a whole lot of stuff, there is no particular need to change, and there would only be some costs involved if you do.
> 
> We have much less problem if the machine we covet and love, and do need for the business, was made in Germany, or Taiwan, or if the lovely gal we are smitten by would respond to *carets* (or fractions thereof) much like Jackie Evancho as Kitty, (or pre-dating me a bit), say Marilyn Monroe + Jane Russell !
> ...


Not forgetting the tad and the gnats for non critical measurement


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## RJSakowski (Feb 6, 2022)

Winegrower said:


> View attachment 395345
> 
> 
> 
> RJ, this indicator shows 0.004 per revolution, 0.0001 per division, just as mksj says.


@mksj had stated .0004 per revolution so he errored by adding an extra decimal place.  My error was not looking at the specs.


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## RJSakowski (Feb 6, 2022)

graham-xrf said:


> @RJSakowski
> Heh heh! Yes indeed. At some stage around 1326, Edward II decreed an *inch* was three fat *barleycorns*. So check out what your shoe sizes are today. That we always have units hangovers is a human thing, and not particularly "American" or "Portuguese" or whatever. Folk are OK with getting to use all sorts of units they can see advantages for, but they will resent like hell any attempt to force anything on them. For a whole lot of stuff, there is no particular need to change, and there would only be some costs involved if you do.
> 
> We have much less problem if the machine we covet and love, and do need for the business, was made in Germany, or Taiwan, or if the lovely gal we are smitten by would respond to *carets* (or fractions thereof) much like Jackie Evancho as Kitty, (or pre-dating me a bit), say Marilyn Monroe + Jane Russell !
> ...


If I remember correctly, there was quite an uproar in the pubs when it was proposed that beer be sold by the liter or deciliter.  Funny, they didn't complain about milk though.  Here, we sell beer by the fluid ounce but hard liquor by the ml.

As for the stone, that may be a vanity thing.  It sounds like less when you say you weigh 12 stone  instead of 168 lbs.


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## kiwi_007 (Feb 6, 2022)

graham-xrf said:


> @RJSakowski
> Heh heh! Yes indeed. At some stage around 1326, Edward II decreed an *inch* was three fat *barleycorns*. So check out what your shoe sizes are today. That we always have units hangovers is a human thing, and not particularly "American" or "Portuguese" or whatever. Folk are OK with getting to use all sorts of units they can see advantages for, but they will resent like hell any attempt to force anything on them. For a whole lot of stuff, there is no particular need to change, and there would only be some costs involved if you do.
> 
> We have much less problem if the machine we covet and love, and do need for the business, was made in Germany, or Taiwan, or if the lovely gal we are smitten by would respond to *carets* (or fractions thereof) much like Jackie Evancho as Kitty, (or pre-dating me a bit), say Marilyn Monroe + Jane Russell !
> ...



There is only one in the photo that was bought "new" in New Zealand, the Mitutoyo 513-404 and that wasn't cheap, all my indicators were won/bought off Ebay over the last 24+ years and came from USA, EU, GB, Russia etc. 
The used items that are available overseas are cheaper and in much better condition than what comes up for sale in NZ and the variety is also far superior. 
BTW that is only about 1/3 of my dial indicator collection.

If anyone has a Moore & Wright or Starrett display cabinet for sale please let me know


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## graham-xrf (Feb 7, 2022)

kiwi_007 said:


> There is only one in the photo that was bought "new" in New Zealand, the Mitutoyo 513-404 and that wasn't cheap, all my indicators were won/bought off Ebay over the last 24+ years and came from USA, EU, GB, Russia etc.
> The used items that are available overseas are cheaper and in much better condition than what comes up for sale in NZ and the variety is also far superior.
> BTW that is only about 1/3 of my dial indicator collection.
> 
> If anyone has a Moore & Wright or Starrett display cabinet for sale please let me know



Wow! and Wow! On this site, there is always somebody who shows you how it's done!

That you have them all so carefully kept, laid out in the purpose-made box, shows the kind of pride and attention that I have to admit, I don't quite get up to in myself. I was always the untidy kid who went like hell for the end result, leaving a trail of mess behind him. Now that I have to pay up more for the stuff I have, and have to avoid the consequences of mess, I have now become more tidy. I have had some unfortunate experiences that have variously drawn blood, and one that left me temporarily poisoned (ingesting IPA mistaken for fruit juice).

I love your kit! Right now, I am debating with myself the relative worth of a Mitutoyo swing-lever dial gauge vs settling for some not-necessarily-crappy, but lower cost alternatives, and simply replacing later. I think I will fork out for the Mitutoyo. Something like a dial gauge one wants to use a lot, and know it will last for years.


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## kiwi_007 (Feb 8, 2022)

graham-xrf said:


> Wow! and Wow! On this site, there is always somebody who shows you how it's done!
> 
> That you have them all so carefully kept, laid out in the purpose-made box, shows the kind of pride and attention that I have to admit, I don't quite get up to in myself. I was always the untidy kid who went like hell for the end result, leaving a trail of mess behind him. Now that I have to pay up more for the stuff I have, and have to avoid the consequences of mess, I have now become more tidy. I have had some unfortunate experiences that have variously drawn blood, and one that left me temporarily poisoned (ingesting IPA mistaken for fruit juice).
> 
> I love your kit! Right now, I am debating with myself the relative worth of a Mitutoyo swing-lever dial gauge vs settling for some not-necessarily-crappy, but lower cost alternatives, and simply replacing later. I think I will fork out for the Mitutoyo. Something like a dial gauge one wants to use a lot, and know it will last for years.


Mitutoyo makes quality measuring tools, their dial test indicators were redesigned in 2017 and Long Island Indicator repairs consider the new models to be superior to the previous models. It's also interesting that they say the Mahr is a copy of the Mitutoyo only with a metal bezel.






						Test Indicator Brand Comparison
					

Test Indicator Brand Comparison: Mitutoyo, Starrett, Bestest, Interapid and others.




					www.longislandindicator.com


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## mmcmdl (Feb 8, 2022)

kiwi_007 said:


> There is only one in the photo that was bought "new" in New Zealand, the Mitutoyo 513-404 and that wasn't cheap, all my indicators were won/bought off Ebay over the last 24+ years and came from USA, EU, GB, Russia etc.
> The used items that are available overseas are cheaper and in much better condition than what comes up for sale in NZ and the variety is also far superior.
> BTW that is only about 1/3 of my dial indicator collection.
> 
> If anyone has a Moore & Wright or Starrett display cabinet for sale please let me know


These displays  are pretty cool !


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## ClintNZ (May 26, 2022)

A question for the DTI gurus... is it normal for a lever type indicator to fail to read when used on it's side? I just got my first one & when I lay it down to centre up an axial hole in work in the lathe chuck it won't read with the dial vertical. Reads fine tipped on it's back or standing up. But of course laid down with the dial vertical is where I'd always want it for indicating work in the 4-jaw...

Admittedly this is a _very _ cheap one, no great loss if it's a dud. Is it worth opening it up to see what's falling out of whack or will that likely go very bad? A decent Mitutoyo or Starret is in the long term plan but my metrology spend since I got my new lathe & mill a couple of months back has now gone past the 4 figure mark so give me a break on that for now!

Cheers
Clint


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## kiwi_007 (May 27, 2022)

ClintNZ said:


> A question for the DTI gurus... is it normal for a lever type indicator to fail to read when used on it's side? I just got my first one & when I lay it down to centre up an axial hole in work in the lathe chuck it won't read with the dial vertical. Reads fine tipped on it's back or standing up. But of course laid down with the dial vertical is where I'd always want it for indicating work in the 4-jaw...
> 
> Admittedly this is a _very _ cheap one, no great loss if it's a dud. Is it worth opening it up to see what's falling out of whack or will that likely go very bad? A decent Mitutoyo or Starret is in the long term plan but my metrology spend since I got my new lathe & mill a couple of months back has now gone past the 4 figure mark so give me a break on that for now!
> 
> ...


All my indicators work in whichever position I use them in so possibly your indicator, what brand is it?
If buying a indicator in New Zealand they aren't cheap, well except for the Chinese imports, Starrett indicators sold here are the cheaper line which are made in China, the US made ones have "American Made" on the dial.
My recommendation if buying new would be a Girod, swiss made








						Horizontal DTI 37mm Face x 0.01mm Graduation
					

Swiss quality, high sensitivity repeatability and accuracy; durable and reliable; unaffected by magnetic fields; automatic reversal types which are fully jewelled with completely independent movement; supplied in case with carbide contact point (12mm stylus length modules only) and 8mm dia...




					mytools.co.nz
				



Or Mitutoyo 513-404
Basic set








						Mitutoyo DTI 0.01mm x 0.8mm 513-404E - Horizontal Type
					

Provides easy access to shrouded surfaces that cannot be reached with conventional dial indicators.  No-clutch structure for automatic reversal of measuring direction.  Resistant to water and dust. The glare-free flat crystal face has a scratch-resistant coating. High sensitivity and quick...




					mytools.co.nz
				



Full set








						Mitutoyo DTI 0.01mm x 0.8mm 513-404T Full Set - Horizontal Type
					

Full set comes with clamp, holding bar, 1mm, 2mm & 3mm stylus and 4mm & 8mm stems.Provides easy access to shrouded surfaces that cannot be reached with conventional dial indicators.  No-clutch structure for automatic reversal of measuring direction.  Resistant to water and dust thanks to the...




					mytools.co.nz
				




When I first got into machining I was told, "you will spend more on tools and tooling for machining than the machine cost'

Looking at the price of new tools, I would say I've got more than double in tools and tooling than my lathe and mill cost me.........lol

Kiwi


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## Boswell (May 27, 2022)

Interesting problem. I thought that there is a direct mechanical connection between the lever and the dial. Possibly there is a gear that is loose so it does make good connection in certain orientations.  Just a wild guess.


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## ClintNZ (May 29, 2022)

Thanks Guys, the seller of the cheap DTI gave me a refund instantly after I mentioned the problem. May take it apart & check (never miss an excuse to dismantle something new!) It's like a rack is falling off the side of a pinion or something.

That is really good info for when I do get something decent thanks @kiwi_007 ! I notice the Girod has a 12mm long stylus & the Mitutoyo is 20mm - seems to me a bit longer stylus may be better but I've hardly used these things before so would welcome some advice on that.

Cheers
Clint


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## davidpbest (May 29, 2022)

kiwi_007 said:


> Some may think I have a problem, I seem to collect dial indicators, micrometers and, well just about all quality measuring tools.


Some collect indicators, some collect indicator stands.


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## kiwi_007 (May 30, 2022)

David, that is a nice collection of Noga indicator stands and indicators, the only stand I haven't got yet is the MA6103 you have pictured there, one day.

The front stand has a B&S black face 1" indicator does it not? The 4th one back looks like a Fowler, not sure of the make of the other one with the while face or the 3rd, 5th and 6th ones from the front, can you please enlighten us?


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## davidpbest (Jun 1, 2022)

kiwi_007 said:


> David, that is a nice collection of Noga indicator stands and indicators, the only stand I haven't got yet is the MA6103 you have pictured there, one day.
> 
> The front stand has a B&S black face 1" indicator does it not? The 4th one back looks like a Fowler, not sure of the make of the other one with the while face or the 3rd, 5th and 6th ones from the front, can you please enlighten us?


Per your request.  Coded to the photo below.  Most of the high quality units I have acquired as used or New Old Stock, then had them serviced by *MRToolRepair*.

1 - Interapid 312B-1  0.005" DTI   - Most frequently used DTI in my shop - seems to be bomb proof
2 - Compac 225GA Vertical 0.0001" - Used mostly on indicator stand with surface plate
3 - Mitutoyo 513-401 0.0001"  - Lives on my lathe spider as TIR indicator
4 - Compac 213LA 0.0005"  -  Used primarily on lathe for live boring ID indication
A - Brown & Sharp MB216  0.001" - My favorite drop-style general purpose indicator
B - Starrett 25-511 0.0001" - This is NOT a quality instrument IMO
C - SPI 24-300-6  0.001"  -  general-purpose use
D - Mitutoyo 4802-10 Large dial 0.0001" - Absolutely invaluable in calibrating the Haimer and Tschorn 3D edge finders. Thanks to @Jake P
E - Marked Fowler on back - Chinese clone   0.001" - I have 5 of these for woodworking applications, and consider them "throw-aways"
F - NoName (Chinese) 3" stroke 0.001" - Used on the lathe for gross centering of parts in the 4-Jaw.

I have a few others similar to F with magnetic backs (NoName units) for use on the lathe for carriage/compound live travel indication.


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## kiwi_007 (Jun 3, 2022)

Thanks David, I have a 2” version of A shown above but it has a large face, it’s one of my favourites when more than 1” travel is needed.
Why do you consider the Starrett not to be a quality indicator?


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## davidpbest (Jun 3, 2022)

kiwi_007 said:


> Thanks David, I have a 2” version of A shown above but it has a large face, it’s one of my favourites when more than 1” travel is needed.
> Why do you consider the Starrett not to be a quality indicator?


Build quality is poor IMO.  Service technician also remarked that Starrett indicators are not high quality in comparison to the Swiss or German alternatives.


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## kiwi_007 (Jun 3, 2022)

Thanks David, I have a few Starrett dial indicators and have found they work very accurately, I’ve tested them on a surface plate with gauge blocks, the nicest one I have is a 656 series, 0.0001” x 0.4” travel.  It I cant comment re build quality.
Long Island indicator services make a similar comment about the Starrett test indicator.

Some of the german and Swiss indicators are excellent, Long Island Indicator services books are well worth reading.


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## mksj (Jun 3, 2022)

Starrett dial indicators are usually quite durable, and accurate. Cannot really comment on build quality, I haven't had the need to take any apart, but the action has always been smooth and they are good daily drivers if you can get them at the right price. I have their 25-511 and 611 and picked them up for ~$75 each in like new condition. I like that they provide 0.0001" resolution over a 0.2" travel. My go to indicator for high resolution is still my Compac DTIs. In general, older models may have been better built then newer versions. Many of the older models like Compac, Alina, etc. were built like their watches, but these days they are becoming harder to find at a reasonable cost, are often heavily used and parts are no longer available/repairable.


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## kiwi_007 (Jun 3, 2022)

I agree with you Mark, since most of my Starrett are metric I have had some exceptional deals, I just picked up a 709M on offer for what I would call exceptional.
My first Compac indicator came with a Starrett last word 0.0001 test indicator, back then the Starrett, which I was bidding on cost me $45 and included with it was a Compac 213. needless to say the Compac I've still got and the Starrett got replaced with another Compac.
At present if I see a Compac at a reasonable price in good condition I'm very tempted to buy it.


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## davidpbest (Jun 4, 2022)

You guys are classic conformation bias twins.


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