# Restoring A Burke #1 Horizontal



## USNFC (Aug 14, 2015)

Hey everyone,

  I picked up an ugly little horizontal mill the other day and have began to give it a little restoration.  I just wanted to share some of the progress pic's.
As received:


----------



## USNFC (Aug 14, 2015)

Here is were I began disassembling:


----------



## USNFC (Aug 14, 2015)

Rusty table:





Cleaned table:


----------



## USNFC (Aug 14, 2015)

Cleaned ways:


----------



## USNFC (Aug 14, 2015)

A little before and after pic.  I still have a way to go, and will update as I get things done.


----------



## eeler1 (Aug 14, 2015)

Yikes, you went showroom on that mill.  Very nice!


----------



## USNFC (Aug 14, 2015)

Thanks, yeah at first I was just going to clean up the ways, lube, and then use it...but I figured I may as well go all out while I have it disassembled.  There aren't any machines in my shop that can walk the runway, but this one should look pretty good when I'm done.  I'm more concerned with function over beauty, but maybe I can get both!


----------



## brino (Aug 14, 2015)

Thanks for the pictures!
Very nice job!!! 

That looks very similar to an old Bristol mill that's patiently waiting for my attention.....

Please a little more info:
-any idea the age of the machine?
-does it have adjustable gibs for the dovetails?
-what is the spindle taper MT3?
-what (chemicals, tools, process) did you use to clean the table?
-what for the ways?
-what paint did you use?
-did you need to fill any casting lumps or holes? If so with what?

Thanks again!
-brino

(my Bristol is from early 1900's, it has a MT3 spindle taper, I got it from a local scrap yard)


----------



## USNFC (Aug 14, 2015)

Thanks Brino.

To answer your questions:
  -I'm not sure of the age, but I believe it is shortly after Burke acquired USMT.  I would guess 1950's, but that is just a guess.
  -The gibs are adjustable with sets screws and bolts to push and pull.
  -The spindle taper is B&S 9
  -To clean the table I used WD40, PB Blaster, a scotchbrite(by hand, not powered)
  -For the ways, it took a lot of elbow grease, PB blaster, and steel wool.
  -The paint I used was Rust-X machine grey.
  -I didn't bother filling any casting flaws, or removing really stubborn original paint...I figured if it was that much of a pain, then it wasn't going anywhere under normal use.

Now, to add, I have used bondo before to fill casting flaws and it works well.  I'm no painter, but what I have learned is preparation is the biggest key.  I didn't do a professional quality job, but I did do a better than average job.  Like I said, at first I was just going to remove the rust, clear over it, clean up performance issues, then use it....but I got carried away and decided to go ahead and make it pretty.  My biggest focus is always making sure to do the mechanical and electrical aspects as perfectly as possible.  I know some people wouldn't put a scotchbrite pad to the table, but I've never had an issue with it.  I did steer clear of using it on the ways because I've read reports of impregnating the stuff into the metal, which will cause wear...not sure of the validity, but better safe than sorry.  I will update with pic's as I progress.  Thanks again for the comments.


----------



## brino (Aug 14, 2015)

Excellent! thanks for the response.

Your reply touched on one aspect I forgot; electrical.
What size motor are you going with?
Any electronic speed control?

Thanks Again!
-brino


----------



## USNFC (Aug 14, 2015)

It came with an old 3 phase 1hp 1200rpm motor.  I was going to swap over to a 1hp single phase 1725rpm motor because I have a few in the shop, but I like the idea of having the slower speeds, so I'll probably just pickup a Teco 1hp VFD and put it in a filtered enclosure with a fan.  I work as a controls engineer, so I can get some decent pricing on stuff with the company discount(company I work for, not my own).  It also came with a disconnect(square D, if I remember right), an Allen Bradley ON/Off switch, and a Furnace switch that I will reuse.  All new wire in seal tight, and SO cord for the VFD power.  I also have a 1hp DC motor setup(Leeson) that I might go with, but my preference is the VFD setup.  We'll see how much the wife lets me spend!


----------



## USNFC (Aug 14, 2015)

Here is the motor plate for the motor that came with it...  I have searched online just to see if there was any info on it, but found nothing on this model...the company is still in business though.


----------



## USNFC (Aug 14, 2015)

Actually, I just found this...it looks just like this motor...  http://reuland.com/Brochures/Fluid Shaft Motor.pdf .  I don't know if it has that fluid shaft feature though...I'll have to crack it open and take a look.  I have to clean it all out anyway.


----------



## brino (Aug 14, 2015)

USNFC,

Thanks again.
I have never heard of that motor manufacturer or the "fluid shaft motor"; it's like having a torque converter built in. Too bad it doesn't have a full automatic transmission too! 

I was considering a DC motor for my (eventual) rebuild. Maybe one from a treadmill.

-brino


----------



## Bill C. (Aug 14, 2015)

USNFC said:


> Thanks, yeah at first I was just going to clean up the ways, lube, and then use it...but I figured I may as well go all out while I have it disassembled.  There aren't any machines in my shop that can walk the runway, but this one should look pretty good when I'm done.  I'm more concerned with function over beauty, but maybe I can get both!



I like the scrape markings after all these years are still there.


----------



## USNFC (Aug 15, 2015)

A little more progress yesterday.  I got the saddle all cleaned up and installed.  It was a slow progress day....too stinking hot!  Hopefully I will get more done today.  I should have the table cleaned and mounted today...the top is already clean, just gotta clean/paint the bottom.  I will get some more pic's up this evening.  Thanks again for the comments!


----------



## mattthemuppet2 (Aug 15, 2015)

wow, that looks beautiful! seems like you got one of those diamonds in the rough  there's nothing like using a tool that you've personally torn down and rebuilt yourself.


----------



## USNFC (Aug 15, 2015)

No new progress, but here's the saddle mounted.


----------



## astjp2 (Aug 15, 2015)

Are you going do any scraping?  tim


----------



## USNFC (Aug 15, 2015)

No, I don't plan to do any scraping...to be honest that's a skill that I do not possess.  The scraping on this machine looks to be good though. 

A correction to my previous post:  I said the paint was rust-x, however it is actually X-o Rust...sold at true value hardware.


----------



## Ulma Doctor (Aug 15, 2015)

the half moon looking scrape marks is what's  called Oil Flaking.
the scrape marks are far below the machined surface to act as a reservoir for oil to collect and act as a bearing surface to reduce wear.
before reassembly it might be in your best interest to lightly stone the ways to remove any ridges where a tool or work may have dinged the ways.
the crater created by an impact of tool or work will slightly raise the metal from the newly formed crater that will interfere with a member sliding across the surface.
a fine oilstone ,fine diamond , fine ceramic stone with a little windex or mineral spirits will do a nice job.
personally i like the windex because it's effective and cheap- plus it smells a lot better too.
just be sure to wipe off any excess windex and lightly oil the surface as there is water present in windex and rust can occur easily


----------



## USNFC (Aug 15, 2015)

Ok, got the table finished and installed today.  Also disassembled, cleaned, repacked bearings, and reassembled spindle....and installed it.  Here is how she sits now.


----------



## USNFC (Aug 15, 2015)

Thanks for the suggestion Ulma Doctor.  I'll hunt down a stone and touch up everything before I put her into service.


----------



## USNFC (Aug 15, 2015)

One more...with the table end on...


----------



## brino (Aug 15, 2015)

Wow. great job!


----------



## FOMOGO (Aug 15, 2015)

That's looking really good. You might try soaking the table in Evaporust to get the t-slots looking as good as the top surface. hard to say when to stop on these things and say good enough. Mike


----------



## USNFC (Aug 15, 2015)

Yeah, I need to pick up some Evaporust...I actually intended to do it today, but got busy in the shop.  That stuff works miracles.  The best stuff for aluminum that I have found is Chem-dip.


----------



## USNFC (Aug 16, 2015)

Aluminum pulleys after 15 min. in Chem-dip.


----------



## USNFC (Aug 16, 2015)

I got the arbor support all done...also cleaned, painted, and hung the counterweight(inside main body). I've also began cleaning up the pulleys, shafts, bearings, and things for the drive side.


----------



## Silverbullet (Aug 18, 2015)

You should be very proud of this it's turning out to be a real gem. One of these days I'll find one too but don't think I'll go as far as you did . I'm a fixer up and user still never know I may follow your lead . Be nice to own a new looking piece of iron. Good luck with her.


----------



## USNFC (Aug 18, 2015)

Thanks Silverbullet!  The pictures make it look better...I could have done the strip, bondo, sand, paint routine, but I'm usually not that patient.

Here is some update pics.  Got the drive setup.  Went with the 1hp DC motor (cause I have it, so why not).


----------



## USNFC (Aug 18, 2015)

Another angle...


----------



## USNFC (Aug 18, 2015)

Also, pay no attention to my mess in the background!


----------



## USNFC (Aug 18, 2015)

Here's with the covers on.  I still have to do another coat of black, but I wanted to see what it looked like.


----------



## USNFC (Aug 18, 2015)

All that's left is mounting the motor control and another coat of black on the covers.  Then I should be cutting metal!


----------



## brino (Aug 19, 2015)

That is freakin' beautiful! 

I will be referencing your pictures for inspiration when I finally get to my old mill.

Very well done sir!

-brino


----------



## USNFC (Aug 19, 2015)

Thanks Brino!  I can't wait to make some chips with this baby!


----------



## eeler1 (Aug 19, 2015)

There's another thread here about stripping old paint and gunk, and I myself am getting ready for a filthy lathe rebuild/restoration.  Just wondering how you cleaned up the castings and prepped for paint?

Again, nice job.


----------



## USNFC (Aug 19, 2015)

I actually used a small needler from harbor freight for the rust, and second and third layer of paint.  Once I got down to the original paint and filler, it wasn't that bad, so I didn't bother removing it.  I was hesitant to even call this a restoration, more of a clean up and paint.  My focus was primarily on the machining surfaces.  
An excellent read for a real restoration can be found here: 
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/burke-4-restoration-by-rmack898.21127/

rmack898 did this restoration, and Mac, if you read this, My hats off to you sir!  Top notch job.

There is also a restoration here of a very similar USMT horizontal(a little earlier model of mine): 
http://bluechipmachineshop.com/bc_blog/rebuilding-a-burke-1-horizontal-milling-machine/

Again, top notch work!  Mr. Finch utilized Easy Off oven cleaner, which worked exceptionally.


----------



## USNFC (Aug 19, 2015)

Also, I have a couple more machines coming in for a real restoration that I plan to post up here in the next couple of weeks.  Keep your eyes peeled for a restoration of a Hardinge BB4 horizontal(cute little bugger), and a Standard Modern 1340 lathe.  I have far more projects than time, so it may be a little slower moving!  It's a greasy messy tedious job, but I love it.  I think for me it's almost more fun working on machines than using them(I enjoy that too though) haha.

-Steve


----------



## USNFC (Aug 19, 2015)

Alright, got the motor control mounted and fired her up.  It runs smooth and quiet.  I have some cutters on their way too me, so should be able to cut some steel next week!


----------



## USNFC (Aug 19, 2015)

I ran it for about 30 minutes and the bearing temp was 88*F...which isn't much higher than ambiant...looks good to me.  I didn't mention this, but I used Kluber grease in the spindle...expensive, but good stuff.


----------



## Fortis64 (Jul 27, 2017)

I'm a bit late to the party ,brilliant restoration and interesting looking mill . I'm in the process of refurbishing a little Centec 2 horizontal mill . Biggest outlay to date were the Timken tapered roller bearings , cost more than I paid for the  mill ......Anyways looking forward to seeing your mill cutting some chips .... 

Sean


----------



## brino (Jul 27, 2017)

Fortis64 said:


> I'm a bit late to the party ,brilliant restoration and interesting looking mill . I'm in the process of refurbishing a little Centec 2 horizontal mill . Biggest outlay to date were the Timken tapered roller bearings , cost more than I paid for the mill ......Anyways looking forward to seeing your mill cutting some chips .... Sean



Hi Sean, I am sure there are many people here that would love to see your restoration.....I know I would!
Please feel free to start a new thread and share whatever you can. 
Don't worry if it's slow progress most of us have been there.
I bet you will get lots of useful advice and perhaps find some others that have the same machine.

-brino


----------



## Glenn Brooks (Jul 27, 2017)

Very nice looking machine. Great job on the restore. I've never quite understood D.C. Motors on these machines. So, Can you run a D.C. Motor at any speed, with no change in  torque?  If so, what kind of controller did you use with the motor? And how do you estimate the actual pulley speeds produced by the motor?

Sorry for all the questions.  Always,wondered why D.C. Motors aren't used more in these applications.

Thanks
Glenn


----------



## USNFC (Jul 27, 2017)

Sean, thank you for the compliments.  I actually got the tooling in and made chips for a few week, then sold the mill.  It would be ideal for certain scenarios, however for my little hobby shop it wasn't going to be used too much.

Glenn,  I used the DC motor just because I had one on hand.  In my opinion, DC motors are a very viable alternative.  I think people just know and trust AC motors with a VFD more due to them being used more in manufactured equipment.  DC motors retain torque better at low speeds in my experience, and are quieter.  Typically DC motors and controllers are cheaper than a VFD/AC motor combo.  For quick reversing applications, I think an AC motor/VFD is better...but how often do you use that on a horizontal mill (I'm thinking in the ballpark of never).  Now if you were doing a lot of tapping, then I'd stick with AC and VFD.  For some reason every time I see this come up, it is a very heated discussion...which is odd to me.  For my setup, I used a Leeson speed controller, but there are a bunch of brands.  Typically you find 90V or 180V permanent magnet motors, so make sure the controller matches the motor voltage.  As far as pulley speed goes, on this particular machine I didn't have a clue.  I just adjusted speed based on the sound of the cutter.  On my millrite mill, I adapted a Baldor 3 phase AC motor and a VFD.  For this I bought a cheap digital tachometer with a hall effect sensor and attached the magnet to the very top of the quill shaft. (like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-4-Digi...856941&hash=item3d2f28d990:g:XMAAAOSw5cNYezt- )  This gave me the rpm of the quill, so for larger cutters you may have to do a little math.


----------

