# (Used) Grizzly G0709 14x40 Ownership Thread



## wachuko

Figured I would start a thread on this new-to-me Grizzly G0709 metal lathe I got on December 23rd, 2021.

It all started looking for a milling machine... and then seeing if I could also find a bigger lathe before the PM1236 arrived.  Out of pure luck I found a machine shop selling both... I was able to buy both for a little more than I was paying for the new PM1236.

This lathe has less than 20 hours of use as it was their backup unit.  They had three of these and one of the larger Grizzly lathes...

Build Date: 2014/08
Serial # 420265







Well, PM1236 ordered was cancelled... got the milling machine and a few days later went to pick up the lathe.

I needed a drop deck trailer to make it easy to unload at home... Could not find a larger one as everything was rented out.  Somehow the seller managed to load it... Not the best way as it was in the back of the axle... I was fortunate that the shop I bought it from was only 26 miles away from my house.  Slow driving got me home safely.




I stopped a few times to check everything was still secured and fine...




Once home, my son helped me getting it inside the garage...  We had to remove the tag in the trailer to be able to unloaded with the pallet jack.  Since the seller used a forklift, he just went over it... The pallet jack does not go that high so tag came off and we got it out.










Took the cover off and was inspecting everything to make sure it was all well after the move and unloading...




All the original plastic film were still on...




Missing was the thin black cover inside the lower select knob/dial


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## wachuko

More photos...


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## wachuko

With the pallet jack I was able to move it against the wall... where I think it will be staying for a long time...

I was able to remove the lumber used by the seller and just place it over two 4"x4"s.... the other stacked 2"x4"s that you see in the photo are not doing anything... I had them and to keep them out of the way, I just slipped them under the lathe...  I positioned the 4"x4" so that I could install leveling pads without having to get them out...




I am using the same outlet and plugs for the 220V in the garage... same type used in stoves... so I installed a plug and did a quick test to make sure everything was working... Pardon the silliness... deep down I am an immature child  ... I was just so excited to have it working in the house that night...  

There is a lot of cleaning to do and I want to touch up the paint on a few parts... but I just wanted to leave it working that night...


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## wachuko

It came with:

(1) 6" 3-Jaw chuck with reversible jaws
(1) 8" 4-Jaw chuck with independent jaws
(1) 11" face plate
(1) Steady rest/follow rest
(1) Quick change tool post with 2 tool holders
(2) MT#3 dead centers 
(1) MT#3 live center - this one they just grabbed from a box... not turning great after inspecting it at home
(1) MT#5 - MT#3 sleeve
Pull out chip pan
1/2" drill chuck w/ MT#3 arbor

It is missing:

(1) That cover on that lower dial - Ordered from Grizzly today.
(1) MT#5 - MT#3 sleeve - Seller has it, just need to go back to get it
(1) Toolbox - I did get a few wrenches and the chuck key so not too worried about missing the actual toolbox
(1) MT#3 live center in good working order - I ordered one today from Precision Matthews
(1) MT#3 dead center carbide tipped

Ordered:

(6) Leveling pads from Precision Matthews
(1) MT#3 HD Live Center from Precision Matthews
(1) P07090434 - COVER PLATE from Grizzly
(1) P07090527 - HALF NUT ASSEMBLY from Grizzly - I just wanted a spare... lathe has less than 20 hours of use as it was the backup unit.  They had three of these and one of the larger Grizzly lathes...
(1) P4003G0024 - DEAD CENTER MT#3 CARBIDE TIPPED from Grizzly


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## fitterman1

What an excellent belated xmas present.


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## wachuko

fitterman1 said:


> What an excellent belated xmas present.


Ohhh, it was home before Xmas!! Hehehehe .  It was in my garage on the 23rd!


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## wachuko

Some things I want to get later for it:

(1) 5-C Collect Chuck D1-5 - Will most likely get this one first from Precision Matthews
(1) ER-40 Collect Chuck D1-5 - Will most likely get this one first from Precision Matthews
(1) DRO - I was reading Bruce's thread... will most likely go with the same one he got... 
(1) Taper Attachment - not sure if I will ever use this... so it is at the bottom of my list... but would be nice to have it... 
(10) BXA Tool holders... Not sure if 10 or 20... just several for the few cutters that I currently have... I understand I will be adding more as time goes by...


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## wachuko

I got some spray paint at the local Lowes... tested on a cover to see if it was a close match to the factory color... waiting for it to dry to see if it is...






First part I want to remove is the back splash to clean it and give it a new coat of paint.

I also need to check the flood coolant system... make sure all that is working.  

But for now I will focus on cleaning everything on it... just to make it look pristine again.

I did clean the surface rust on the 4-jaw chuck... but I want to polish it back to looking like new... so not done with this one either...


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## fitterman1

wachuko said:


> Ohhh, it was home before Xmas!! Hehehehe .  It was in my garage on the 23rd!


Hope the missus was able to splurge as well.


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## Jubil

Looks like you got a good deal.
I have the same model and I’m very happy with it. Only problems I’ve had were operator induced, (not going to talk about that). 
Installed an import dro and I’m happy with that also. Sure helps in several ways.

Chuck


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## SLK001

wachuko said:


> Some things I want to get later for it:
> 
> (1) 5-C Collect Chuck D1-5 - Will most likely get this one first from Precision Matthews



With this being a "gunsmith" lathe, I would have thought that the spindle bore was large enough for a 5C setup natively.


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## wachuko

SLK001 said:


> With this being a "gunsmith" lathe, I would have thought that the spindle bore was large enough for a 5C setup natively.



Can you further explain to a newbie?  That means I do not need to buy that chuck?

I saw in this thread where @BGHansen  was able to use/adapt model H5948 5C closer... but those do not seem to be available anymore...


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## wachuko

SLK001 said:


> With this being a "gunsmith" lathe, I would have thought that the spindle bore was large enough for a 5C setup natively.



You got me searching...

I see that this person used Grizzly P4026001 - Collect Adapter , Grizzly P4026004 Draw Tube, Grizzly P4026047 Collect Adaptor Pin 3x6, and a 1.875 X 8" aluminum round bar stock to make the end piece...











The first collect adapter had some unwanted runout and Grizzly replaced it... he mentions that on a 3rd video...






So there is not bolt-on solution... and I do not have the skills right now to do what he did... Just the parts from Grizzly is 204.00 then I need to add the cost of the aluminum stock and the work needed to modify the parts.

This is why I was thinking that getting the D1-5 5-C Collect chuck was easier for me to do...  It is 345.00 shipped from Precision Matthews.

But I had not seen this option of a direct collect adapter... so thank you for calling that out!


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## SLK001

Grizzly has an MT5-5C collet adapter listed in their parts list.  With that adapter and some 1.50" x 7/32" wall DOM, an enterprising lathe owner could create his very own hand wheel collet closer.


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## wachuko

SLK001 said:


> Grizzly has an MT5-5C collet adapter listed in their parts list.  With that adapter and some 1.50" x 7/32" wall DOM, an enterprising lathe owner could create his very own hand wheel collet closer.


That is the adapter the guy in the videos used…

I posted the links to the parts as well… 

I need to think more about this… At my skill level today, I can’t do it…. Need more experience before I can tackle it…

Maybe I should get the adapter and the rest of the parts for when I am ready…


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## Steve-F

Killer Deal Jaime!!


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## SLK001

wachuko said:


> Maybe I should get the adapter and the rest of the parts for when I am ready…



It's by far the most critical part of a 5C setup.  There are two tapers and they have to be concentric with each other.  I would get the adapter now (unless Grizzly is wanting its weight in gold for it) and hold on to it until I got the skills I need to fab a collet set.  If you want to do a thru the spindle set, I would also start trying to find some 1.50" x 7/32" wall DOM tubing now.  Check with Alro Metals (you should have a local outlet) about having it shipped from the stock location to your outlet - they'll ship it to their outlet location on their trucks for free.


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## pdentrem

Sweet! Scary trailer ride though. Is that a bug behind the lathe in some those photos?
Pierre


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## wachuko

pdentrem said:


> Sweet! Scary trailer ride though. Is that a bug behind the lathe in some those photos?
> Pierre


We took it easy and stopping often to check everything.  It was a scary ride, but all went well thankfully. 

And yes, that is a '61 Bug


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## pdentrem

Wife learned to drive in a 60 or 61.


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## Steve-F

Very cool bug! What makes it go We have 66 stock sedan and 65 Baja plus  a few others:<) Met my wife when I fixed her clutch cable on her then 65, when she lived across the street in Dana Point 41 years ago.


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## wachuko

pdentrem said:


> Wife learned to drive in a 60 or 61.


My wife does not get involved with my car projects... that is, until I got the VW Bug... She has been helping me redoing the interiors as she wants to drive it.

We are redoing everything in the interior... outside will remain as is... and I went over the whole drive train and also installed complete new wiring, lights, etc... Installed disc brakes in the front as well... It moves and stops great.

Seats were tired and frames were painted incorrect color for the year... 




Took it all apart, painted the frames, and between the both of us we installed new foams and covers...





All set and ready to be installed once I am done with the headliner...





Only reason she let me get this one was because it was running... not like the other projects I have... so I had to promise her that anything I did to it had to be done and finished and not impede me from driving it...


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## Beckerkumm

Beautiful Bug.  I had a high school sweetheart with one.  The sweetheart part didn't last but the memories have for over 50 years now.  Thanks for bringing them back.  Dave


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## wachuko

Steve-F said:


> Very cool bug! What makes it go We have 66 stock sedan and 65 Baja plus  a few others:<) Met my wife when I fixed her clutch cable on her then 65, when she lived across the street in Dana Point 41 years ago.



Engine is nothing special...




I did get a stock carburetor, a NOS oil bath air cleaner, stock rebuilt distributor...  to somewhat make the engine bay look better... but those are still not installed.  Everything is running fine as it is now and I just do not want to touch it for now...






I did changed all the seals on the windows and installed gaskets that would take the chrome trim... I also changed the rear side windows for ones that pop-out... Had to install shoulder seatbelts to stop from sliding all over the seats, lol...

I have to say... I have been tempted to swap engines... A friend gave me this rail with a new engine in it.  Dual carburetors, 100+ hp... never used.  Here is a video of it... After 12 years of sitting, I got it started... So maybe use that in the VW and use the engine in the VW to power the rail buggy... another project...

First start in 12 years... just putting some gas in the carbs... 






And then after fixing the carburetor sync bar, and fixing the lines to the gas tank, adjusting carburetors, etc.


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## pdentrem

Get it running first, use the wife satisfaction points for engine swap later!


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## wachuko

pdentrem said:


> Get it running first, use the wife satisfaction points for engine swap later!


Absolutely!!  I need to stop playing with the lathe and milling machine and finish the interior... that is the priority.  We drive back to Ocala in a few days and the time will be spent finishing the headliner so I can finish installing all the panels and the rear glass with the new gasket and trim.

I moved the rail buggy from my friend's house to the house in Orlando... I really need that workshop space in Ocala.  If I have to leave this house, in Orlando, for any reason, there is no way I am going to be able to fit all this carp in the house in Ocala without a workshop...


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## Steve-F

Oh yeah, that engine would be sweeet in that bug!! Nice rail too though....tough call!  Keeping the wife happy is usually the best way to go, same story here with my wife's 66 Porsche 912 which I'm going through the engine on....full short block done by next weekend


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## wachuko

Steve-F said:


> Oh yeah, that engine would be sweeet in that bug!! Nice rail too though....tough call!  Keeping the wife happy is usually the best way to go, same story here with my wife's 66 Porsche 912 which I'm going through the engine on....full short block done by next weekend


Are you sharing that in the 912 forum?... man, I need to do something to progress the build of my 912... I so want to drive that car... more than any of the others.

Not even funny how easily I get distracted...


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## Steve-F

Yes, I have been, but a little tardy  as of late posting. Sometimes the critiquers get a little carried away so I'm careful as to what I post unless I'm absolutely sure first.
That should have read "long block" above, I think I spent 4 weekends in row getting the chamber volumes the same @ 62.25 cc's each, just like in your thread, a lot of work....I use your thread for reference a lot! I know what you're saying too, the last time this car drove was YEARS ago and I'm getting some heat from my other half as she wants to drive it again. Gees , now the tires are out of spec....that's how long! Next few months and it's going to GO!


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## wachuko

Okay... reading the threads from @BGHansen, saw the recommendation of using these handles for carriage, compound, and cross slide locks.  Placed the order and should be here this week.




It was from a post @tmarks11 made in @BGHansen thread - link to post


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## pdentrem

Spotted this one in Norway. It is in Oslo at the Norsk Folkemuseum.


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## BGHansen

wachuko said:


> Can you further explain to a newbie?  That means I do not need to buy that chuck?
> 
> I saw in this thread where @BGHansen  was able to use/adapt model H5948 5C closer... but those do not seem to be available anymore...
> 
> View attachment 390563


Correct; two different ways to skin the cat.  A collet chuck draws the collet into the chuck to hold the stock.  The 5-C collet closer draws the collet into the spindle adapter (5MT to 5C) to tighten the collet on the stock.

In theory, the lever style holder allows you to loosen the collet and position stock while the lathe is still running.  Hang the stock out of the collet, throw the lever to tighten the work, do your turning, part it off, throw the lever to loosen the collet and position the material by hard to make the next part, throw the collet lever and go to town on the next part.  I'm a wouldn't recommend it though, something about putting my hands on or near stock loosely rubbing on a collet with the lathe under power just doesn't set well with me.  Especially when you have a brake on the G0709 that'll stop it in a heartbeat.

Bruce


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## BGHansen

I've had my G0709 for 6+ years and have had minimal issues with it.  I have a slow leak in the QCGB that I haven't looking into yet.  The leak is relatively high, so my oil level is at about 1/8" above the bottom of the sight glass.  Maybe a retirement project . . .

The most annoying thing was the throw lever for my tailstock stopped working.  Our of laziness I went to using the socket wrench attachment on the front side.  I didn't shoot pictures of it, but fixed it this past summer.  The design uses a spring pin (923) that pins a collar (922) to an eccentric (944).  The eccentric rides in a block (932) that pulls up/lowers the clamp (952).  My #923 spring pin broke so the backside lever was inop.  The spring pin on my lathe did not completely go through parts 922 and 944, only halfway through.  I drilled the hole completely through parts 923/944 and used a dowel pin instead of a spring pin.

Bruce


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## wachuko

Bruce @BGHansen ,

Thank you for those comments.  

On the 5C:

I checked the different alternatives.  Cost and simplicity wise, best for me to go with the 5C collect chuck from Precision Matthews.  345.00 shipped and it is just a bolt on solution.

What you used is no longer available.  So out of luck on that option.  That would have been cool.

I looked at the Grizzly adapter and with the additional parts, not counting the aluminum stock needed for the end threaded section, was around 200.00 shipped... And looking at a few videos, seems that it will make it difficult to use with the tapper attachment...  

On the issues you have had:  

I hope the leak in the QCGB is easy to fix.  

Good to know about the issue with the tailstock lock handle.  Mine is working fine, but I need to check as it seems to interfere with the handle that locks the quill...  Probably not really an issue thinking about it now... I was just testing both and I had to lock one before locking the other..  Now, thinking about the workflow, I should not have an issue... first I should be moving the tailstock and locking it before messing with the quill... humm... so never mind my comment 

Just for my reference:

923 - part number P07090923 now replaced with Grizzly PRP05M - ROLL PIN 5 X 30


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## Ken226

wachuko said:


> Figured I would start a thread on this new-to-me Grizzly G0709 metal lathe I got on December 23rd, 2021.
> 
> It all started looking for a milling machine... and then seeing if I could also find a bigger lathe before the PM1236 arrived.  Out of pure luck I found a machine shop selling both... I was able to buy both for a little more than I was paying for the new PM1236.
> 
> This lathe has less than 20 hours of use as it was their backup unit.  They had three of these and one of the larger Grizzly lathes...
> 
> View attachment 390506
> 
> 
> Well, PM1236 ordered was cancelled... got the milling machine and a few days later went to pick up the lathe.
> 
> I needed a drop deck trailer to make it easy to unload at home... Could not find a larger one as everything was rented out.  Somehow the seller managed to load it... Not the best way as it was in the back of the axle... I was fortunate that the shop I bought it from was only 26 miles away from my house.  Slow driving got me home safely.
> 
> View attachment 390507
> 
> 
> I stopped a few times to check everything was still secured and fine...
> 
> View attachment 390509
> 
> 
> Once home, my son helped me getting it inside the garage...  We had to remove the tag in the trailer to be able to unloaded with the pallet jack.  Since the seller used a forklift, he just went over it... The pallet jack does not go that high so tag came off and we got it out.
> 
> View attachment 390512
> 
> 
> View attachment 390511
> 
> 
> View attachment 390523
> 
> 
> Took the cover off and was inspecting everything to make sure it was all well after the move and unloading...
> 
> View attachment 390513
> 
> 
> All the original plastic film were still on...
> 
> View attachment 390514
> 
> 
> Missing was the thin black cover inside the lower select knob/dial
> 
> View attachment 390515




That missing cap for the lower left shift knob,  is an upgrade opportunity.


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## Aaron_W

I didn't realize the Grizzly you got was a 14x40, I'd say that is quite an upgrade from the PM1236. You may out grow your garage, but I don't see you out growing this lathe and mill anytime soon, looks like you got a great deal.


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## wachuko

A few parts/accessories came in...

Leveling pads.  And of course I forgot to bring the Johnson Prybar I just bought... left it in the other house... I will use the engine hoist to lift it and remove the 4x4's




Heavy duty live center... much, much better than the one that came with the lathe.  The lathe might only have 20 hours, but this live center they gave me has seen heavy use...  I will use it for wall decoration...




The handles from McMaster-Car arrived as well...








Oh, and I had to order the angle plate (Cross Slide Scale) that has the numbers... I wanted to clean the area for the photo and grabbed the Carburetor Cleaner, sprayed that on a paper towel and cleaned the area... that was way too aggressive and it took out the numbers...  Cleaned on the left, dirty on the right...




I also got the missing cover plate for the bottom dial... I have seen them silver, black... this one came in gray...


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## wachuko

Looking at how to mount the DRO on the tailstock... I made a quick bracket for the sliding block.  Still need to make the bracket/clamp for the quill...




The sliding block has M3 threaded holes in the back...




Once I decide where to mount the bracket, I will drill and tap the tailstock for two M3 bolts.  Or just fix it in place with epoxy and avoid any drilling to the tailstock...

I also removed the cover to the cooling tank... need to empty whatever is in there.   Then I need to decide what coolant to use, if any... not sure if I even need coolant at this time.


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## wachuko

Off the 4x4's !!







The piece of information that I was looking for was serial number and date of build...  For the life of me, I could not find it!

I was only seeing this... empty, not stamped... 




Well... that was not it... information was staring me straight at my face...









I will update the first post with this information...  and once I get it all clean, I will remove all the protective film...


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## Steve-F

Looking Good!!!  I like the leveling pads!


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## wachuko

Work in progress...


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## wachuko

Base block done... just need to cut to length


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## wachuko

5C collect chuck wrench made...


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## wachuko

Over-engineered inexpensive DRO mount done!


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## wachuko

Installed...


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## wachuko

Forgot to update this when I installed/tested the 5C chuck






And one more of the tailstock DRO


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## wachuko

Quick question, for those with one... is taper attachment something I should get?

Grizzly T10502 - Taper Attachment for G0709 Lathe​



I already missed out on the cool collect closer that was available years ago...   my concern is that they stop having these available and then I am SOL for getting one...

And no, I do no have a specific project needing this... I just want to ask to validate if I should be looking at getting one...

Thanks!


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## BGHansen

Kind of a loaded question on this site - of course we're all going to say "you have to have a taper attachment"!  I have one on my G0709 and use it very sparingly, maybe 5 or 6 times in 7 years.  However, not having one when you need it is a bummer.  Between the 5C collet closer, taper attachment and the DRO, I use the DRO most, 5C collets next, and the taper attachment the least.  Caveat is I never use 5C collets on my G0709 because I have a Clausing lathe that has a 5C collet chuck on it all of the time.  My "usage" of collets vs. DRO is based on how often I hop on the Clausing.

My install is below (you have a post on the thread).  It's a bit of a kit to say the least.  I recall paying around $400 for mine, now it's a real commitment at $760 plus shipping!?!  Ouch!

Bruce










						Taper Attachment For The G0709 Lathe
					

I took advantage of a recent Grizzly 10% off coupon and bought a model T10502 taper attachment for my model G0709 14” x 40” gunsmithing lathe.  I have a number of items on my wish list for this lathe:  8” 3-jaw chuck, 5-C collet chuck and a taper attachment.  Maybe my wife will read this...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


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## wachuko

@BGHansen yes, DRO is first on the list... I have your thread bookmarked on that one...  5C, as you can see, I ended up getting the PM chuck for that...

And you are correct, I also bookmarked your thread on the taper attachment... man... what is it that they say that it is the first thing to go? I keep forgetting...   

Thanks for the feedback!


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## rabler

I'm with BGHansen.  I have a taper attachment on my Monarch 12"CK, as that's what came with it.  I've used it once, but I could have just as easily used the compound.  Only if you have a taper longer than your compound travel is the taper attachment a real win.  Even there you can play games offsetting your tailstock, just saves you having to true it up again.


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## matthewsx

I have one on my Seneca Falls Star and I've really only used it once. 

But....

It's a nice thing to have for when it's needed and I'm kinda funny about having as many factory options as possible. I bought a full set of collets for the Star with draw bar, not that I really needed them just because they came available and I could afford them. The thing is, if I ever go to sell my tools I know the next owner will be stoked with factory accessories.

John


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## wachuko

Well, this is something I have had in the back burner since getting those handles from McMaster... I needed a small spacer to make the handle work as it should...  I had some leftover spacers from another project.  Perfect fit but needed to drill and cut to size... 









5/16" hole...




I was feeling optimistic and decided to try my first parting on this lathe...  square this... make sure everything is as rigid as possible... minimal stick out on the cutter... lubricant... plunge away... 




Ha!  That great feeling of "goodness, I did not break anything!"




Yeah... that will work...






Done!  Now it locks as it should...


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## wachuko

Man... I need to do something to protect the machines from my sweat...  I know we are not supposed to use long-sleeve shirts... but thinking of getting some of those moisture-wicking performance t-shirts for working with these machines.

I noticed in the previous photos that the chuck has surface rust... this is from my sweat falling on it while working... last night!!  

Cleaned everything, some 3M pad to the rescue and oiled everything again... 




I also want to see if I can replace that halogen lamp with the new LED lamps that comes in the newer Grizzly lathes... This halogen lamp runs hot as heck... I can do without the additional heat...


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## SLK001

wachuko said:


> Man... I need to do something to protect the machines from my sweat...  I know we are not supposed to use long-sleeve shirts... but thinking of getting some of those moisture-wicking performance t-shirts for working with these machines.



Get a fan (or two) and aim them right at your face from about 10 feet away.  It helps to keep the sweat from beading up and dripping off.  

I feel your pain.


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## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> Well, this is something I have had in the back burner since getting those handles from McMaster... I needed a small spacer to make the handle work as it should...  I had some leftover spacers from another project.  Perfect fit but needed to drill and cut to size...
> 
> View attachment 420721
> 
> 
> View attachment 420720
> 
> View attachment 420722
> 
> 
> 5/16" hole...
> 
> View attachment 420723
> 
> 
> I was feeling optimistic and decided to try my first parting on this lathe...  square this... make sure everything is as rigid as possible... minimal stick out on the cutter... lubricant... plunge away...
> 
> View attachment 420724
> 
> 
> Ha!  That great feeling of "goodness, I did not break anything!"
> 
> View attachment 420726
> 
> 
> Yeah... that will work...
> 
> View attachment 420727
> 
> View attachment 420728
> 
> 
> Done!  Now it locks as it should...
> 
> View attachment 420729


Good job!  I like that.  Think I will have to do something like that.  It's an unnecessary pain fooling around with the Allen wrenches for this.


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## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> Good job!  I like that.  Think I will have to do something like that.  It's an unnecessary pain fooling around with the Allen wrenches for this.


Oh, sooo much better.  Not my idea... I borrowed that from others here that have done the same.



SLK001 said:


> Get a fan (or two) and aim them right at your face from about 10 feet away.  It helps to keep the sweat from beading up and dripping off.
> 
> I feel your pain.


I was lazy... I have a new fan that arrived last week and was still in the box.  Did I put it together before doing this task?  Nooooooo...

Setup now for the next time I work.... I will get a second one to place next to the milling machine... moving this one around will get old quickly...




I also noticed that one of the D1-5 locking thingys was not locking... Removed the chuck and one of the studs was out too much.  Fixed and checked the rest of the studs... sure enough, two more were a bit too high (but those locked fine).   All corrected and set to the same height and now they all lock correctly.


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## Aaron_W

wachuko said:


> Oh, sooo much better.  Not my idea... I borrowed that from others here that have done the same.
> 
> 
> I was lazy... I have a new fan that arrived last week and was still in the box.  Did I put it together before doing this task?  Nooooooo...
> 
> Setup now for the next time I work.... I will get a second one to place next to the milling machine... moving this one around will get old quickly...
> 
> View attachment 420795
> 
> 
> I also noticed that one of the D1-5 locking thingys was not locking... Removed the chuck and one of the studs was out too much.  Fixed and checked the rest of the studs... sure enough, two more were a bit too high (but those locked fine).   All corrected and set to the same height and now they all lock correctly.



I got a pair of wall mounted fans off of Amazon, I think they are 16" so probably the size of that floor standing fan, or maybe a touch smaller. Don't recall what I paid but well under $100 for the pair and they take up none of my valuable floor space. I leave them running all the time in the winter to keep air moving in the damp season. Just when needed during the summer.


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## wachuko

Aaron_W said:


> I got a pair of wall mounted fans off of Amazon, I think they are 16" so probably the size of that floor standing fan, or maybe a touch smaller. Don't recall what I paid but well under $100 for the pair and they take up none of my valuable floor space. I leave them running all the time in the winter to keep air moving in the damp season. Just when needed during the summer.



That is a great idea... I will hold off on buying a second one... 

So I will do the same once the shop is built and I move the stuff out of the garage... I can then decide where in my garage I will have the lathe and the mill... Right now they are just out of the way of a car going in and out...   The mill and lathe are not going to be move to the workshop... I want these in the single bay in the garage...   I already have plans to install some clear thick shower curtains to minimize chips coming into the two-bay side...


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## fitterman1

All chucks etc will develop a patina over time.
If you want them to maintain their new look, get some Camellia oil mixed with beeswax and rub that in. That'll maintain your bling factor.


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## wachuko

fitterman1 said:


> All chucks etc will develop a patina over time.
> If you want them to maintain their new look, get some Camellia oil mixed with beeswax and rub that in. That'll maintain your bling factor.


Bling is great and all,  .... I just want to avoid rust!!


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## fitterman1

In our world there are three certainties, death, taxes and rust.
The use of Camellia oil and beeswax by the axe using community retards the formation of rust, It was used by the samurai's to keep their blades shiny and clean.
I use it also and find it works good.


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## wachuko

fitterman1 said:


> In our world there are three certainties, death, taxes and rust.
> The use of Camellia oil and beeswax by the axe using community retards the formation of rust, It was used by the samurai's to keep their blades shiny and clean.
> I use it also and find it works good.


I obviously hit reply too quickly... I have beeswax.  I will get some Camellia oil and give that a try.  Just need to hide it from my wife.


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## Aaron_W

Johnson's paste wax or similar furniture wax is popular with woodworkers to keep bare metal surfaces rust free. I just keep my metal working tools oiled and that seems to do the job. Can't oil most wood working tools because of the wood dust and possible contamination of the wood being worked, not so much of an issue with metal which often comes oiled.


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## fitterman1

It doesn't necessarily have to be camellia oil. You can use anything, pour it into some melted beeswax to create a viscous paste and rub it in. Let it stand for a while and polish it. Like waxing your car.


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## mattthemuppet2

Fans are the only way I can work out in my garage in summer! For an LED light, what sort of socket does the lamp have? I have the same one on my mill and I put a homemade LED light in it that works just fine. 2W I think, nice and cool


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## SLK001

My biggest problem is with my wood working power tools - LOTS of cast iron surface area that attracts sweat droplets.  My fans are the only way I can work in my garage without leaving rust spots everywhere.


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## fitterman1

SLK001 said:


> My biggest problem is with my wood working power tools - LOTS of cast iron surface area that attracts sweat droplets.  My fans are the only way I can work in my garage without leaving rust spots everywhere.


I used to work in a timber mill and joinery a long time ago, and we would spray the iron surfaces with silicone spray to make the wood glide better. This also protects against rust.


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## SLK001

fitterman1 said:


> I used to work in a timber mill and joinery a long time ago, and we would spray the iron surfaces with silicone spray to make the wood glide better. This also protects against rust.



Silicone is a killer for a finish.  Causes "fish eye".


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## fitterman1

What's fisheye?


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## SLK001

fitterman1 said:


> What's fisheye?


Areas in a wet finish where the surface tension is different from the rest of the work.  As a result, the finish doesn't flow out evenly, leaving an unsightly application.


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## fitterman1

Understood, it messes with automotive coatings also


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## wachuko

I am so not worthy of the tools I have.... Here, had to share...

I have used the 5C chuck only three times since installing it...  so yesterday while using it, I noticed some run out... and I thought, well that is strange... this chuck has the runout adjustments...  ha!  I never adjusted the chuck!!  All four set screws were loose...  

Fixed now...  Apologies for the noise in the video... could not find a way to eliminate the background noise...  EDIT: Decided to put some background music instead... 






So much to learn and remember...


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## wachuko

Removing the rust with this was a breeze... the stubborn sections required using a scotch-brite pad... but all came out... A good coat of way oil and ready to be used...


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## Aaron_W

wachuko said:


> Removing the rust with this was a breeze... the stubborn sections required using a scotch-brite pad... but all came out... A good coat of way oil and ready to be used...
> 
> View attachment 420947



WD40 also works well to clean up rust.


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## wachuko

Aaron_W said:


> WD40 also works well to clean up rust.


Most of the time, that is what I use... The rust on this chuck was stubborn...  The amount of effort that I needed to remove it once I put a little bit of this spray, was just amazing...  It is acid after all... need to remind myself to use gloves next time.


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## wachuko

Need some suggestions...  I have been putting off this task because of the mess it can make...   This is the coolant system as it came from the previous owner.   So obviously I need to empty this carp, clean everything... But I need to push something up the pump and hose to flush out the stuff in there...

It all works... I tested it...




Two questions:

1. What should I pump up the system to flush it well ???

2. Is there a coolant that does not degrade that I can flush with?  Then leave it there if I ever want to use it??  Or best to clean everything, flush with whatever you guys recommend, and leave empty?


I am not looking forward to this task...


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## mattthemuppet2

wear full PPE, hazmat suit with external air supply, flush with bleach and then burn the waste with white phosphorus. That should do it.


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## mattthemuppet2

maybe add a flame thrower, just to be sure..


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## wachuko

mattthemuppet2 said:


> maybe add a flame thrower, just to be sure..


I guess I had it coming 

I have a gallon of Simple Green… I will go with that…


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## mattthemuppet2

all joking aside, take that outside wearing gloves and disinfect it with something prejudicial to microbial life (10% bleach is very effective). Avoid aerosolising it - pour the bleach in and leave it for a day or two before rinsing or scrubbing. You can get some really unpleasant skin infections from the stuff that grows in old coolant, and that particular example looks like it's about to start discussing the merits of Shakespeare.


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## wachuko

mattthemuppet2 said:


> all joking aside, take that outside wearing gloves and disinfect it with something prejudicial to microbial life (10% bleach is very effective). Avoid aerosolising it - pour the bleach in and leave it for a day or two before rinsing or scrubbing. You can get some really unpleasant skin infections from the stuff that grows in old coolant, and that particular example looks like it's about to start discussing the merits of Shakespeare.



I was not able to get it out without risking spillage... so I poured some Clorox/bleach... left if a couple of days... then poured 1/2 gal of concentrated Simple Green... then turned the pump on with the empty container of the Simple Green to catch it all...  Poured some more bleach with water.... rinse and repeat...  Now waiting for all to settle and do another cycle.  I will leave it all dry... not planning to use any coolant.

I still need to remove the tray and clean that well... only thing that I did was to scrape all the stuff that was there.  But it needs to come out to give it a good clean with a pressure washer.

I also need to degrease it all... I have not done any cleaning since I bought it.  I have only tackled the chucks to remove the gunk and some surface rust...  

I will be here all week in Ocala so that will give me time to do some cleaning.  I also want to replace the halogen light with the LED equivalent...

Recent photos...these were before cleaning the tray...  you can see the need to also clean the backsplash... I will get to it this week...


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## wachuko

After emptying the tray...




Whatever is on that backsplash is fighting the cleaning... WD-40 did nothing, non-Ethanol gas did nothing... will try some Simple Green (a new bottle, not the one I used to flush the system  )






Also, the tray did not wanted to come out... this border is a bit bent and was preventing the tray to slide out easily.  I got it to where the tray now comes out, but I will work some more on it to get it back into the correct shape...




It slides out now, but I need to get that top trim corrected...


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