# Mitsubishi Vfd - Wiring - Can't Figure It Out.



## middle.road (Sep 8, 2015)

Hey gang!
I need some help connecting the dots. I am a tad lost trying to wire up the Mitsu VFD. (Completely actually.)
I do wish that I understood electrical systems and schematics better.

I finally got the garage re-wired and dropped a new circuit of 10/4 over to the mill.

I'm trying to layout all the wiring and then make up the mounts and harness(es) as required.

- VFD is a Mitsubishi FR-D7205-070-NA.
- Motor on the Bridgeport is wired for 240v.
- I would like to keep the drum switch (just because old habits die hard...)
- I'm adding a 'Panic button'. to the two hots coming from the sub-panel before they connect to the VFD.

Would anyone hazard a guess as to how I should connect the three wires from the Bridgeport motor to
the 'U', 'V', & 'W'? There were Black, Red and White coming from the motor to the drum switch.

I've poured over dozens of diagrams on the web and can't figure out how to wire up this VFD for the drum switch. 
I'm figuring that it has to with the 'STF', 'STR', & '???' (maybe the 'SD')

I also need to know how the green/orange connectors on the the front work, I've never seen this type before.
I'm assuming it's just push the wire in, and then use the orange bar to release, but again my confidence level is pretty low.

Thanks in advance, _Dan


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## mksj (Sep 8, 2015)

Hi Dan,

A few suggestions and diagrams for you to review. I would use a standard 2 pole 240V power disconnect switch for power to the VFD, and use a breaker or cartridge fuse for L1 and L2 unless you have a dedicated circuit with a breaker at the box/sub panel.  Power is connected to the L1 and L2 terminal in the VFD. The E-stop switch should not be in the input power to the VFD, but should be used to interrupts the low voltage power that operates the input commands. So SD would connect to the E-Stop and then continue to connect to the drum switch. The drum switch would ONLY switch the low voltage control signal to the forward STF and the reverse STR terminal based on the position of the drum switch.  You use pin connection terminals on the end of your control wires (usually 18-22G) that push into the terminals on the VFD.  The small orange button above each pin insertion hole is pushed in with a small screwdriver and the pin pulled on to remove the pin. The pins require a special crimp that crushes them in a circle, I end up stripping the wire and inserting it into the pin so the wire sticks a little out the other end, and quickly solder the tip so the solder runs into the tube and then clip off the extra wire. Too much heat and you will melt the plastic collar.

The VFD is connected directly to the VFD, so the motor must be 3 phase and the U, V, W is connected directly to the motor terminals, and a ground wire. So you should use 14/4 wire preferably shielded. The drain wire for the shield is only connected at the VFD end. The control wires should be at least 6" away from the motor cable, to prevent induction cause false signaling. If your motor is running the wrong direction, switch any two of the 3 phase wires at either the motor or the VFD.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-FEET-LAP...RSIBLE-PUMP-/191591216501?hash=item2c9bb9f575
http://www.sabcable.com/new_data/VFD_Whitepaper.pdf


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## middle.road (Sep 8, 2015)

Thanks for the quick reply M. 
The 10/4 is on it's own breaker, strictly for the mill & to power an outlet for the DRO.
Well those 'connectors' are sure a show stopper. I pulled out one of the jumpers and I have to say, I've never seen that one.
Measures ~ .045 x .062. I don't believe I understand the reasoning behind a rectangle connector, why now use a screw down type?
I'm going to have to improvise something. That's one crimp tool I don't have and I can't afford to buy that one for just a few connections.

I think I should have gone with a Teco or an Hitachi. I was shopping price...
I'm not sure how I'm going to get the control wires spaced 6" from the motor wires, there's only an inch or so between them.
Of all the wire I have laying around I don't have any large gauge shielded. 
I'll have to run out tomorrow and see what I can find. Around here that might be a trick. I wish I'd been sharp enough to order supplies
a couple of months ago. This puppy has been sitting waiting to be used since May.


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## JimDawson (Sep 8, 2015)

middle.road said:


> Well those 'connectors' are sure a show stopper. I pulled out one of the jumpers and I have to say, I've never seen that one.
> Measures ~ .045 x .062. I don't believe I understand the reasoning behind a rectangle connector, why now use a screw down type?
> I'm going to have to improvise something. That's one crimp tool I don't have and I can't afford to buy that one for just a few connections.




I have one of those crimpers and they ain't cheap.  About $140 if I remember correctly and that was 20 years ago.  You can just stuff a stranded wire in those connectors, works just fine.


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## rdhem2 (Sep 8, 2015)

I do not understand why you would want to use a drum switch in this application.  A drum switch is intended to switch line voltage conductors directly to the motor.  What was shown by *mksj* will certainly work but seems like a case of gigantic over kill to me.  The job of switching the stop output wire to the forward and reverse inputs can simply be done with an inexpensive double throw single pole maintained switch with center OFF.

If you purchase some 22mm control switches and use a push to stop/twist to release switch it will also give you a safety lockout of sorts.  Then use a three position maintained switch to as a *FORWARD-OFF-REVERSE* control.  Enclosures and switch labels are premade for this application and from the same source as the switches.  To wire connect *SD* to the *STOP* pushbutton, then a common wire to the three position switch.  Then from one side of the switch to STF for *FORWARD* and to STR for *REVERSE*.  These switches only switch low voltage control signals and the recommended switch will duplicate the manual operation of the drum switch for hand feel.  To feel more like a drum switch ask for an extended handle for glove operation.  These buttons will easily mount in place of the drum switch.

Please, under no circumstances interrupt the wires between the VFD and the motor.  Serious damage will result.  I am going to make the wild assumption that you are connecting to a 2hp motor on the Bridgeport.  By the book motor load is 6.8 amps so #14 wire from the VFD to the motor will suffice.  These will connect from U, V, W, to motor leads 1 & 7, 2 & 8, and 3 & 9, with 4, 5, & 6, twisted together.  As long as the run is short, metal flex conduit will substitute for shielded wire.  If you purchase shielded cable be careful to watch the voltage rating on the cable is good for at least 300 volts.  Most computer type wire is NOT.

Have fun.  Get that puppy making *SWARF!       *


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## ZZZ (Sep 8, 2015)

Hi Dan,

    Mitsubishi makes very fine drives, unfortunately VFD's are very difficult to set up, even for experienced electricians.  Do you have the 33 page Installation Guide or the 300 page Instruction Manual?  No, I'm not kidding, they can be downloaded and can give you some guidance.  The UVW terminals are for the 208 volt three phase motor leads in any order.  Normally, you would not have a white lead except on a single phase motor.  If it is a single phase motor, do not connect it without further instruction.  Never connect any other leads to UVW other than the motor leads.
    The diagram mksj posted has everything you need for "Start Forward" and "Start Reverse" the SD is the switch common line for direction and speed range switches.
    The Phoenix terminals do not require a blade terminal, as long as you are using solid or stranded wire of the correct gauge wire.  If you use stranded wire, be very careful to twist it tightly, as to not let any strands escape and short out the nearby terminal.  They also sell crimp on pin terminals that don't require a special crimper, which is what I use. Do not solder a stranded  wire as a substitute for a solid wire.  Use a 3/32" screwdriver to push down the orange open/close button while inserting the wire.
I can't add any links as I have not made enough posts.

Randy


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## rdhem2 (Sep 8, 2015)

JimDawson said:


> I have one of those crimpers and they ain't cheap. About $140 if I remember correctly and that was 20 years ago. You can just stuff a stranded wire in those connectors, works just fine.



FORGOT!!!!  Yes those crimpers are expensive, but very necessary to use these termination ferules.  Our experience in a custom control shop has been that the small screws in the terminal strip will not put adequate pressure to deform the ferule and hold the wire without a crimp.  The next event is the wire comes out just enough to create an intermittent open in the circuit a trouble shooting nightmare.  In your application I would just run #16 or #18 for the control conductors and forget the ferules.  Also the ferules come 100 in a bag and are not cheap.  But a cabinet totally made up with them does look cool.

Now back to the *SWARF* manufacturing.       :+1:


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## JimDawson (Sep 9, 2015)

rdhem2 said:


> But a cabinet totally made up with them does look cool.




Sure does, I've done a bunch of them that way.


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## JimDawson (Sep 9, 2015)

ZZZ said:


> .................... unfortunately VFD's are very difficult to set up, even for experienced electricians.



I would submit that the VFDs are easy to setup, but translating the poor translation in the manual is the difficult part.  For the most part there are very few parameters that need to be set to get up and running.  Most VFDs have 100 or more parameters, but you only need about 5 of them to get going.  Most of it is not useful unless you have a special application.  If the manuals would give the basic setup in the first pages, life would be much easier.  Having to wade through all of the parameter descriptions to setup is just wrong.
.
.


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## middle.road (Sep 9, 2015)

Thanks for all the replies gang! Reading over them with the first cup of coffee gives me hope this fine day.

The reason for a Drum Switch is strictly a second nature 'old habits' / instinct type of thing. So many years of running mills with one at your left hand
ingrains a habit that is hard to retrain. Like on my Birmingham lathe, after two years and I'm still not use to the lever on the carriage. I keep messing that up.
(My father worked for Furnas Electric when I was young. I had a box full of switches and stuff that we use to 'play' with. Maybe that's why. <GRIN>)

Thankfully the motor is wired up as noted above by RD. The Black/Red/White I mentioned was just the SO cable running to the drum switch.

Can't find any 14/4 shielded within a 25 mile radius. So I'm going to try some flex. (I'll wrap the wires in copper foil tape, and toss on a coat of aluminum paint  )
Late last night, I shaved .010" off top & bottom of some 14ga solid THWN. So that matches the cross section of the connectors.

Geek action: I know I've got an RS-232 / RS-485 cable around here somewhere. Need to find that. Would a computer make it easier to program this VFD?

Again, thanks for all the info guys, off into the shop.


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## middle.road (Sep 9, 2015)

ZZZ said:


> ...  Do you have the 33 page Installation Guide or the 300 page Instruction Manual?  No, I'm not kidding, they can be downloaded and can give you some guidance.
> Randy



Hehe, dang if it wasn't on the CD that came with the drive. I hadn't noticed.
Another cup of coffee and some reading coming up! Thanks!


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## mksj (Sep 9, 2015)

VFD is only for connection to a 3 phase motor.

Just to be clear, I do not crimp the ferules mentioned. I pass the wire through the ferrule tube and solder the tip so the solder wicks into the ferrule tube. Takes about 5 seconds, and works fine. Otherwise you need to use stiff solid wire and/or larger gauge. Stranded wire would need to be tinned with solder. The ferules only become square when crimped, spades to a terminal block would also be crimped to the wire, but spades would take up way too much space for all the connections.  These round ferrules work very well once you start to use them and are sized according to the wire gauge.
Box of 1000 assorted ferrules for $13 : http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000pcs-14-...rules-E2518-/111068172490?hash=item19dc2dd0ca
Crimping tool if you went this route for 20$ : http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-25-6mm2-T...re-end-Cord-/151278086106?hash=item2338e067da

Agree drum switch is way overkill, but it can be used as shown. In my mill builds, I use momentary switches for the run (guarded green), stop (unguarded red), a separate direction switch (forward/reverse direction) and an E-Stop. How it is wired/configured depends on the VFD, whatever works for you. Most VFD manuals are many pages to describe all the features, 99% which you probably will not use. The Mit's manual is no difference then many other VFD manuals. After you have done a few, they are all about the same.

I recommend 600V rating wire between VFD and motor, as the VFD can cause breakdown in wire insulation with time. Shielded  wire is recommended for longer motor runs, the control wires should not be run in parallel with the motor cable (i.e. tied together). The Mit's is easy to program from the VFD, I had posted a previous link to a video showing this. Computer would work, but you need the software and a connection cable...., not worth the trouble for the few parameters you would change.
Mark


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## ZZZ (Sep 9, 2015)

JimDawson said:


> I would submit that the VFDs are easy to setup, but translating the poor translation in the manual is the difficult part.  For the most part there are very few parameters that need to be set to get up and running.  Most VFDs have 100 or more parameters, but you only need about 5 of them to get going.  Most of it is not useful unless you have a special application.  If the manuals would give the basic setup in the first pages, life would be much easier.  Having to wade through all of the parameter descriptions to setup is just wrong.
> .
> .


 
As someone who has worked on VFD's for 25 years in sizes up to 125 HP, I can tell you that the parameters are extremely important to motor life, smoothness of operation, and many other subtle factors.  I had two metalworking classes at the university back in 1978, where I learned to use milling machines.  I have not operated one since.  I am sure that if I claimed that they were easy to set up and get running (by someone knows very little about them) I would get a whole lot of disagreement.  I should have stated "difficult to set up properly". But I do agree that they should have a quick start manual like many other machines, since most electrical novices are not going to spend countless hours studying VFD manuals.


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## JimDawson (Sep 9, 2015)

I got my hands on my first VFD in about 1985 or so, a little smaller than 125HP, I think it was 100HP on a big lumber sorting system.  Nobody knew anything about them at that time so I was elected.  Still running today as far as I know.  In the intervening years I have setup well over a 1000 units of all different brands.  The largest single install I've done had about 900 motors from 3 to 10 hp (airport baggage conveyor system, all Allen-Bradley VFDs).  My most recent setup was on a 3/4 HP surface grinder for a customer a couple of days ago with a 120v in, 220V out (set at 220v to match the motor nameplate).  That was the first time I had ever had my hands on a Teco, it took about 10 minutes to configure, good documentation.  In my shop right now I have a 1 and 3 HP GS2 units, one 10 HP Hatachi, and one 15HP SafeTronics, all running equipment.  The documentation on the GS2s is excellent, the SafeTronics is good, the Hitachi not so much.


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## middle.road (Sep 10, 2015)

Success! Up & running!  


JimDawson said:


> I would submit that the VFDs are easy to setup, but translating the poor translation in the manual is the difficult part.  For the most part there are very few parameters that need to be set to get up and running.  Most VFDs have 100 or more parameters, but you only need about 5 of them to get going.  Most of it is not useful unless you have a special application.  If the manuals would give the basic setup in the first pages, life would be much easier.  Having to wade through all of the parameter descriptions to setup is just wrong.


Very true Jim. I found a video on Youtube, and set the six parameters and pressed 'RUN' and she spun right up.

All the rotations are correct, so I at least got that wired correctly. It is nice to have a diagram to go-by, thanks Mark! 
I'm going to post a summary and some picts after I get caught up on the stuff I let slide the last couple of days.

Is there a noob's guide to setting the various parameters? I basically just took a stab at them and crossed my fingers.

Thanks again All! It feels real good to finally have this beast running.

_Dan


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## middle.road (Sep 13, 2015)

Some Picts. 
I went a tad over board on the low voltage connectors, figured that the rectangle shape was needed.
I made them up before I saw Mark's reply. 
The two conduit runs from the head are separated from one another as much as I could get them.
Everything fit into the 6x6 non-metallic box nicely, I was even able to add two outlets one the backside 
for the DRO and such.


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## bigmojo (Dec 7, 2015)

Wow...This exactly that i was looking for.  Thank you very much.  Not to hijack the thread, but how would i go about adding the ability to jog?  I'm wiring up a LeBlond Regal 17 with a Mitsu 720 VFD. I like having the drum switch for forward/reverse but am willing to forgo it if necessary to get the ability to jog.  I'm guessing i could connect STF and STR to momentary pushbutton switches in parallel to the drum?


TIA.


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## bigmojo (Dec 7, 2015)




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## mksj (Dec 7, 2015)

It would seem that the Mits needs both a JOG input and a direction activated at the same time. So SD to JOG and STF for forward or SD to JOG and STR for reverse. You can do this separately from your current controls (parallel), but must either use a dual pole momentary switch for the JOG that connects SD to the JOG and STF or STR separately (as shown below) or use a single pole  with logic diode(s).  Commonly what is done is to use a momentary push button JOG switch connected to SD, the output goes to the JOG input and a separate connection to a diode which connects to the input to a 2 way switch. One output connects to the STF the other to STR. This allows switching the JOG direction. You might also consider going to a 3 wire control with momentary switches (I use switch  guards on the FOR, REV, JOG  buttons). Did this for a lathe build and works very nicely. Would also work nicely on a mill.


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## mksj (Dec 7, 2015)

The diagram you posted would need to use diodes, otherwise when you operate the R/O/F switch you will always run at jog speed because of feedback to the JOG input. Also the way you have it wired, all the connections will be connected all the time. Need to use diodes or 2 pole switches.


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## bigmojo (Dec 7, 2015)

You sir are a gentleman and a scholar!  Thank you very much!


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## bigmojo (Dec 7, 2015)

So would this be more appropriate?  Sorry, electronics is not my strong suite and am trying to avoid a diode as i have not a clue what to get or how to use it.


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## mksj (Dec 7, 2015)

The diodes are dirt cheap and available on eBay, Mouser or any electronics house. About any diode will work, it is like a check valve only allowing the voltage to travel one direction. The band side is the forward direction and would be closest to the terminal block
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UF4007-Ultr...387392?hash=item4af43f9480:g:owoAAOSw5VFWJnvJ

But if no diodes then this schematic should work fine. One uses a JOG Forward and JOG Reverse, the other uses a single JOG button and a direction toggle switch. Most push button switches come with a single NO control switch block, you can buy them and add a second to the switch. 
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...inated_Pushbuttons_Flush_-a-_Extended/GCX1104
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...shbutton_Accessories/Contact_Blocks/ECX1040-2


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## bigmojo (Dec 8, 2015)

Okay, so did my research and am going to go with Diodes.  Seems like it will simpler and cleaner in the end. 

THANK you again for the direction.


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## mksj (Dec 8, 2015)

To use diodes as shown previously the VFDs inputs internal logic jumper is set to source logic and instead of using SD for the common, PC is used. This means power flows from PC (+) to the switches and then to the respective input which is at 0V (-). This requires using the PC terminal (wire goes to the E-Stop then switches) and the VFD logic switch set to source from my read of the schematic.


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## bigmojo (Dec 9, 2015)

So...Not to flog a dead horse here, but based on this, once i move the jumper from sink to source, assuming i had it wired as per the image below i should be in business?  Note:  the 3 position switch in the middle supports 4 poles NO with any 2 poles connected in either of the two closed positions. So, I would have STR+PC and JOG+PC to the left, and STF+PC and JOG+PC to the right with the middle being OFF.




Much thanks for sticking with me.  I know I'm a bit think in the head, not to mention the mid section!


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## mksj (Dec 9, 2015)

Needed my glasses for that picture. Its hard to grasp some of the concepts until you start doing it, I had a few pumps in the road learning about these things. You just need two diodes as shown, the banded end goes toward the terminal which is the direction of the current (signal). RL needs to be programmed to JOG function. The purpose of the diode as mentioned is like a valve, it allows a current (signal) in one direction and not the reverse, always from the + to - direction. This is why you need source logic so PC is the + terminal. So when you press the JOG button it makes contact with the RL terminal and allows the forward/reverse command terminal to be activated. When you operate the forward/reverse via the lever control, the current (signal) cannot travel backwards through the diode. If the diodes were not there, current would travel back through the jog for/rev switch to the RL terminal and you would only get jog speed. So no changes to your current wiring for the lever control switch. Connect another  wire from your E-Stop to one side of your NO jog switch, connect the other terminal to RL, and the input (center) of a ON ON switch to switch from forward to reverse. Connect one output to STR with a diode anywhere inline as shown, connect the other output  with a diode anywhere inline as shown. QED.


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## middle.road (Dec 9, 2015)

You gotta admit, the assistance on this forum board is second to none!


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## sanddan (Dec 9, 2015)

Thanks Mark, for all of the help on these wiring questions. You are a big help to this group.


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## bigmojo (Dec 10, 2015)

No question about it.  Muchas Gracias.  I do believe this flogged horse is done! 

"QED" - you must British or an engineer or both...

Thanks again for your assistance.


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## bigmojo (Dec 11, 2015)

Okay guys.  I'm baaack.

Got it all wired up, and the controls are working (in testing) as expected. However, when i try to turn on the lathe i get about 1/2 inch of rotation and then an E.OV2. So...I removed all the circuitry i built and tried running it directly from the VFD.  I checked the manual and it says that E.OV2 is "Regenerative overvoltage trip during constant speed" which is triggering the "Stall Prevention" circuit.  Any kind words of wisdom?

FWIW, the motor has 9 black wires, 6 of which (in bundles of 2) were wired to a RPC, the 4th bundle which is comprised of 3 wires was just wire nutted together.  When i wired the VFD i took UVW and connected them to the 3 2-wire bundles. I took the ground and connected it to the bundle of 3 wires thinking it was ground....maybe not?


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## JimDawson (Dec 11, 2015)

Did you set all of the motor and other set up parameters?  Sounds like an incorrect setting, maybe.


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## bigmojo (Dec 11, 2015)

I did set the Frequency to 60 Hz. Other than that i am not sure what to set?


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## JimDawson (Dec 11, 2015)

There are probably 5 or 6 parameters you have to set.  Motor current, motor max RPM, accel, decel times, maybe input and output voltage.  Time so sit down with the user manual for a bit .  Don't get bogged down in all of the extra stuff, but there are a few things that have to be set up.


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## bigmojo (Dec 12, 2015)

Okay - RTFM - got it.  Although i have to admit that is the worst manual.  They don't give you a printed copy so you have to read the PDF, which would normally be okay, except their manual makes you jump from pg 17 to 144 to 54 to 119 to 202 just to figure out what one parameter does.  Based on the motor plate (attached) i have set the following params. 

1 Max Frq = 90
2 Min Frq = 30
3 Base Frq = 60
7 Accel Time = 15
8 Decel Time= 30
9 Rated Current = 4.8
83 Voltage = 240
154 Surpress Overvoltage Prevention = 11 (per a manual supplement)

Now i get E.ov1


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## mksj (Dec 12, 2015)

You might indicate the exact model VFD you have as there are many versions with slightly different program parameters.
The manual is a nightmare of confusion and referencing pages and sections, so clear as mud.
You need to set the motor rated voltage to 230V, although 240V will not harm it.
You need to set the number of poles to 4
Motor capacity may be in amps (4.8) or KW (1.2)
Some ask for RPM at base frequency (1725 RPM).
Acceleration I would set to 5 seconds
Deceleration to 3 seconds (unless it trips with an over voltage when stopping). I would get a generic braking resistor is you have any issues.
There is an applied motor =  standard motor
Control method selection = General purpose magnetic flux control
There are other parameters for auto tune and overload settings for the motor.
We can give you some further guidance on other settings as needed.
Mark


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## bigmojo (Dec 12, 2015)

phew... So much for "simple setup"

I am running a Mitsubishi FR-D720S-100-NA

I reset motor to 230v
Verified that motor capacity asks for Amps (4.8)
Accel and Decel have been reset per your instruction

Param 71 (Thermal Characteristic of the Electronic Thermal Relay Function) is has a default value of "0" which is "Thermal characteristics of a standard motor" but also offers a setting "3"  which is "standard motor".. uh huh - thats clear!

It also states : "When General-purpose magnetic flux vector is selected, the motor constants (SF-JR, SF-HR, SF-JRCA, SF-HRCA, etc.) necessary for control are selected as well." but that is not an option...



TIA.


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## JimDawson (Dec 12, 2015)

bigmojo said:


> I took the ground and connected it to the bundle of 3 wires thinking it was ground....maybe not?



Sorry, I missed that one.  4-5-6 are just connected together, but not to anything else.  Ground goes to the ground lug in the motor connection box, normally a green screw, but any screw to the motor frame will do.

1-7, 2-8, 3-9 are connected to U,V,W


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## bigmojo (Dec 12, 2015)

That was it.  Rewired that ground and she fired right up!!  Whoooo hoo!  I'm cutting chips.   A big THANK YOU to Mark and Jim.


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