# Conversations From A Thread Hijack...



## darkzero (Apr 14, 2015)

randyc said:


> The lower knurled lock nut was an experiment - I removed one of the wheels from the knurl to make that pattern.  I sort of like it and the pressure required was considerably less than with both wheels installed.




I'm a big fan of single diagonal knurling. I still use 2 wheels to achieve the knurl but with both the same directional wheels. I use 2 wheels cause knurling Ti 6Al4V is not that easy depending on the type of knurl desired. I use a K1-44 heavy duty scissor knurl.













Sorry for the brief hijack. Thanks for this thread to remind me that I need to finish working on my micrometer carriage stop.


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## randyc (Apr 14, 2015)

Whew !  That is impressive, beautiful work !!!  I hope that the OP liked the hijack as much as I did   I've thought often about doing some cut knurls using coarse threading feeds and a threading tool ... haven't yet had a need so couldn't justify the time to experiment.  Sometime .....


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## darkzero (Apr 14, 2015)

Thanks Randy! 

Ooh I'd love to see a post by you on that! Your informational threads are always so detailed. I've always wanted a cut knurler but I can't afford one. I'd love to see if your experiment works whenever you might get around to it.

Ok, ok sorry McRuff, one more time.

Randy here is what I mean by not that easy. When I do a fully formed knurl on titanium grade 5 I like to do it in one pass. If I do multiple passes I get flaking & the peaks don't come out crisp. There's some pretty hefty pressures doing this. I use convex cobalt wheels & solid carbide roll pins. Over 1" diam I have to pin my tool post so it doesn't spin.




And knurling for a 2pc 30" long Ti spear that I made. Never heard my lathe make so many weird noises before! First time I ever knurled something that tough in length.


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## barnett (Apr 15, 2015)

Very nice !!


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## randyc (Apr 15, 2015)

darkzero said:


> ....Randy here is what I mean by not that easy. When I do a fully formed knurl on titanium grade 5 I like to do it in one pass. If I do multiple passes I get flaking & the peaks don't come out crisp. There's some pretty hefty pressures doing this. I use convex cobalt wheels & solid carbide roll pins. Over 1" diam I have to pin my tool post so it doesn't spin...



Darkzero, that is incredible work - your knurls look like they were sculpted !  I hope that you're getting big bucks for those parts, they certainly deserve it -

I hear you about getting to full depth in one pass.  I don't have a scissors knurl or the cobalt/carbide combination in your set up. I would sure try it instead of the tedious three or four passes that are now required.  I might be able to do it using a single knurl trick though.  I do get tired of smashing all of those chips back into the knurl 

BTW, I'm not quite getting the follower rest in the photo, are you knurling from the headstock end toward the tailstock ?


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## darkzero (Apr 15, 2015)

Thanks Randy. Yes I'm knurling from headstock towards to the tailstock. Without the follow rest for that piece the workpiece would bend & slip out from wheels as it got towards the center section because of the dia & length. That's the only time I've ever had to use the follow rest knurling.


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## randyc (Apr 16, 2015)

darkzero said:


> Thanks Randy. Yes I'm knurling from headstock towards to the tailstock. Without the follow rest for that piece the workpiece would bend & slip out from wheels as it got towards the center section because of the dia & length. That's the only time I've ever had to use the follow rest knurling.



Oh yes, I just looked more carefully at the photo and the knurls are now apparent.  My eyes aren't so good and I didn't see the knurls last night.  Combined with the spotlessly clean setup, it looked like an _illustration_ rather than a work in progress !  Beautiful, as always and thanks for the clarification


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## darkzero (Apr 16, 2015)

randyc said:


> Combined with the spotlessly clean setup, it looked like an _illustration_ rather than a work in progress !  Beautiful, as always and thanks for the clarification



Thanks Randy! Had to make purdy for the photo shoot! 

Yeah I have a great habit of cleaning my machines more often than others, been getting lazier lately though. Whenever I make titanium goodies I try to clean the chips out often. Had a small lathe fire once (well twice, I lit up some ferrocerium rod once too), my fault for being careless but still take extra caution so it doesn't happen again. Haven't hooked up the flood coolant yet, not sure how great it works on my little import lathe anyway.

(Well it seems I have succeeded at a major thread hijacked. With respect & since I have the power, when I get a moment, I 'll move all these posts to it's own thread).


Too bad I didn't get any pics of the Ti chips on fire but that was the last thing on my mind when I was in that state of panic.


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## planeflyer21 (Apr 17, 2015)

Very good work Darkzero!

I'm glad I changed my mind to get a PM1236 too...it looks like it handled that fire just fine.


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## thomas s (Apr 17, 2015)

darkzero very nice work. thomas s


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## randyc (Apr 18, 2015)

Will, now that the thread has been moved, we're waiting for more of your work


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## coolidge (Apr 19, 2015)

DZ dang you caught it on fire? Is there magnesium in Ti or something? How about some DZ tips for avoiding catching a lathe on fire, and just how do you put a metal fire out for that matter.


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## darkzero (Apr 19, 2015)

randyc said:


> Will, now that the thread has been moved, we're waiting for more of your work



Ok, Randy, I'll dig up some pics & will post them tomorrow. 



coolidge said:


> DZ dang you caught it on fire? Is there magnesium in Ti or something? How about some DZ tips for avoiding catching a lathe on fire, and just how do you put a metal fire out for that matter.



The chips ignited. Ferroecium rod is the most "flammable" material I have tried machining. Well of course it is, that's what is known as firesticks for those firestarters. That bruise is long gone though, I had to repaint the gap as it annoyed me looking at it all the time.

Tips for machining Ti to avoid ignition, simple, use flood coolant & the proper SFMs. To put out a Ti, magnesium, etc fire, youneed to use a class D fire extinguisher. They're not cheap though. Using sand works for small cases but is definitely not a 100% alternative.


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## darkzero (Apr 20, 2015)

randyc said:


> Will, now that the thread has been moved, we're waiting for more of your work



Here's some more titanium gadgets that I have made in the past.


Ti stash cans:


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## darkzero (Apr 20, 2015)

Ti money stash cans:
















Medi pen stash can:


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## darkzero (Apr 20, 2015)

Ti ice picks:



















This one I made for Matt at QMT/PM:


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## darkzero (Apr 20, 2015)

Ti tippe tops:

























Short action video:






WIP pics:

Preparing a 1"x1" piece of solid 6AL4V.




Drilling out the recess.




Bored to final diameter.




Drilling to tap threads.




Tapping the threads for the post.




That's done.




Making a mandrel.




Turning the ball.







After some some sanding.




Cleaned up the edge.




Making the post.


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## darkzero (Apr 20, 2015)

Ti ferro rod holders (flintless firestarters):










Photos from a buddy in Norway I sent one:


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## darkzero (Apr 20, 2015)

Ti beads:


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## darkzero (Apr 20, 2015)

Finally (I'm tired), the rest of Ti Zombie Killer (that's what the customer called it) spear pics:


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## jumps4 (Apr 20, 2015)

impressive work guys
Steve


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## randyc (Apr 20, 2015)

Holy guacamole !  Those are so cool that I can't find the words to describe them - thanks very much for sharing those photos, that took some time !


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## Andre (Apr 20, 2015)

Gotta ask, SMF or SNG?


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## darkzero (Apr 20, 2015)

SnG CC


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