# Rebuilding My Logan 820



## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Been machining for over 30 years, started in the US Navy in  1984.  I have always wanted a lathe for my home shop because I quite frankly enjoy making things...  
Finally got a deal on a Logan, Model 820 so says the tag but it has a turret instead of the normal tail stock... Does that change its designation?  Serial number 42725.
No biggie, First photo is what it looked like when it arrived, second is its current state.  I have taken the saddle apart, cleaned everything and reassembled it. 
I have designed a taper attachment, but not by myself, I saw an individual on Youtube and his idea was spot on perfect, so I started whittling parts at work, only lacking 2 more pcs to complete it so I can mount it.  I will post photos after it is test fit..  At this time not sure I have to have a tail stock, but we will see.


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## eeler1

Cool, there's quite a few Logan rebuilders here.  Got a model 912 turret lathe in progress myself.  Keep the pics coming, I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.


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## Silverbullet

No need the turret will do everything a tail stock will and much more, most don't realize that.


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## CluelessNewB

Looks about the same condition as my 820  like mine when I got it.   The only down side of the turret would be a bit less distance between centers.  It appears to be a cross between an 820 and an 840.

There is some documentation on the Vintage Machinery site you may find interesting.  Specifically the 1944 Catalog:

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=2093&tab=3

Also if you haven't found the Logan web site the link is below, check out the FAQ:

http://www.lathe.com/

There is also a Logan Yahoo Group called lathe-list that you may find interesting.  Scott Logan maintains a database of machine serial numbers and may be able to tell you who originally purchased your machine.  From the serial number it looks like yours was made in 1947. 

There is also a forum dedicated to Logan (along with Rockwell and Sheldon) on this site:

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/forums/sheldon-logan-rockwell-machines.93/



Keep the pictures coming!


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## David VanNorman

Looks like it is all there. It isn't that bad . You will have a nice piece when you are done.


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## A618fan2

Nice get - it'll clean up nice.  I think the turret was standard on the 820.  If you want to change it, tail stocks routinely come up on ebay - some are even reasonably priced!  Post picts for the rest of us as you go and good luck.


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## Holescreek

I restored an 820 back around 2002, it came with both the turret and a regular tailstock.  I ended up selling the turret to someone out of state for $200 a few years later.  I really really liked that lathe but it was just a bit too small for some things.


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## Ulma Doctor

nice project, the turret TS is a major plus!


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Interesting, mine is a 1947, so what do you make of this tag? Feb 3rd 1947????


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## Holescreek

The turret is OK for small sized large quantity parts but it takes up half the bed length.  I'd start looking for a tailstock.


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## eeler1

Or get 2nd lathe!


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## 4GSR

richardsrelics said:


> Interesting, mine is a 1947, so what do you make of this tag? Feb 3rd 1947????
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> View attachment 115962


That is probably when the pattern was made and put in service.  I doubt it has anything to do with when the lathe was made or the casting was poured.  It also identifies who may have made the pattern, which is usually the foundry that poured the castings.


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## eeler1

Does it have the peg leg for motor support?


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Yes I have the correct and proper leg support, the funny thing about what appeared to me to be a date stamp, I quit smoking on Feb 3rd, 2001, thought that was kinda cool... and for what it is worth that dang tag and casting mark are in a location where I need to bolt my taper attachment, unless I modify my design...grr...LOL


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

On to next subject, the head stock., or rather the housing the head stock resides in...I wish to clean that up and paint it as well, but do I dare remove the spindle?

Upon closer inspection, it looks like I remove the collar on the left, loosen appropriate set screws and 4 spindle cap bolts, then IF, and oh is that a BIG if, they all move, it should just slide out???


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

I apparently was correct...LOL Spindle is OUTTA there..LOL, now to investigate bearings...


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Ok, 
I have used clean Kerosene to wash the old grease out of the spindle bearing, this is the double bearing.
Now what is the best grease to replace that with?
I have within my reach the following:
Lubrimatic, High temp wheel bearing grease....(prolly NOT this one)
Amsoil Synthetic Water-resistant grease, ( I use this in my 102 year old Evinrude gear case)

OR is there something better?

Also, this lathe has no means with which to add grease to the bearings after assembly. So grease it and let it go?

What say ye experticious dudes?




Thanks

Richard


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## Bill C.

richardsrelics said:


> Ok,
> I have used clean Kerosene to wash the old grease out of the spindle bearing, this is the double bearing.
> Now what is the best grease to replace that with?
> I have within my reach the following:
> Lubrimatic, High temp wheel bearing grease....(prolly NOT this one)
> Amsoil Synthetic Water-resistant grease, ( I use this in my 102 year old Evinrude gear case)
> 
> OR is there something better?
> 
> Also, this lathe has no means with which to add grease to the bearings after assembly. So grease it and let it go?
> 
> What say ye experticious dudes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank
> Richard



I would go with the bearing grease and work it in as if you repacking front wheel bearings.  My Dad cleaned and repacked a lot of bearings in his day.


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Cant tell you how much fun I am having putting everything in the head stock back...LOL I am fortunate as I , on a daily basis, have to put things back together that someone else tears apart... I consider it a challenge before all human race...oh wait..that is neither here nor there... some advice on the screws holding the plate that when tightened toooo tight stops the spindle from moving... And this is now resolved


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Ok, headstock is now done, torn completely down, re-greased the main bearing, blasted EVERYTHING...used my favorite media...walnut shells. I use this media when I restore antique outboards as is does zero damage to parts and removes most stubborn paint. I had to fix the back gear lever, found the article listed here from Scott Logan. Perfect advice made quick work of this project.  Also had concerns about the back gear lever backing out, until I bought the manual from Logan, saw the little kick down tab, mine did not work..... It does now so this part is 100% complete.  Used LE 9102 Synthetic lubricant, it is for open gears and that worked well. Sprays liquid but sticks AND transfers to the adjacent gears. So a minute or less and ALL the gears were coated well.  Here is a photo


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Ok, I have the bed cleaned and painted, the short legs, cleaned primed and painted, and the long legs cleaned, primed and painted. So now to clear the bench and bring the QC gear box up....  Everything removed, and even got the sweet little drive screws out of the ID tag without ruining the tag....they really should have drilled the holes thru so you can tap the screws out from the back side...anywho, I found under this tag a good chunk of paint that is untouched, probably since it was new....Should I bother scanning it?  Local paint shop has scanner so this is no big deal, but my guess is it will be an automotive paint from a year close to manufacture year of this lathe. In fact 1947 GM color is pretty dang close, so we will see...

Let me know...

Regards

Richard


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## Bill C.

richardsrelics said:


> Interesting, mine is a 1947, so what do you make of this tag? Feb 3rd 1947????
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> View attachment 115962



Probably purchase date


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## Bill C.

richardsrelics said:


> Ok, I have the bed cleaned and painted, the short legs, cleaned primed and painted, and the long legs cleaned, primed and painted. So now to clear the bench and bring the QC gear box up....  Everything removed, and even got the sweet little drive screws out of the ID tag without ruining the tag....they really should have drilled the holes thru so you can tap the screws out from the back side...anywho, I found under this tag a good chunk of paint that is untouched, probably since it was new....Should I bother scanning it?  Local paint shop has scanner so this is no big deal, but my guess is it will be an automotive paint from a year close to manufacture year of this lathe. In fact 1947 GM color is pretty dang close, so we will see...
> 
> Let me know...
> 
> Regards
> 
> Richard



If you can get a good photo I would take a picture with me.  I remember paint chips but they usually are after the paint has dried.


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Oh the paint is cracked...ALOT, but the color is good...close to 1946 Cadillac Seine Blue....


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Ok, no dice on the sample, not big enough, bummer, so here is the QC Gearbox after total tear down, cleaning, painting and reassembly. I do need 2 new pins for the 2 handles, I will put them on after I refurbish the knobs... So here is that photo.



Now the next photo is of a lathe in the shop of the guy that is going to blast my chip pan...Someone PLEASE tell me they also spot the deadly act in the photo???




Can people REALLY be this uninformed?????  Ughh


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## Steve Shannon

Chuck that key. 


Steve Shannon, P.E.


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

I will have to wait a couple of weeks for the chip pan to be blasted, said it would only cost 5-10 bucks so worth the wait, Here it is back on the legs and with the head stock just sitting there.  I will use this time to finish the taper attachment


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## Silverbullet

I own 11" Logan and its Probaly about the same age as yours I've had it for thirty plus years . And she's never been torn down and rebuilt , I really haven't used her in about 8 or 10 years . When I last used her we made some serious specialty cleaning rods and chamber and choke tube cleaning brushes. Plus we turned out a few hundred wad knockers. I feel bad for not being able to touch her with loving hands to wipe her down and re oil her. I was in the shop today and gave her a little look and she's still in great looking condition. A good covering of some gear oil and there's no rust or any other problem I can see. She misses our time but I'll be back with her soon. Just never had a real problem with mine ever. I wish other things lasted and worked as hard. Me included.


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Well, making great strides this past week. Head stock is now mounted to the bed, I have attached the motor mounts, and the cool thing is instead of the normal belt, I got a 41 inch serpentine belt and used it.
I cant imagine wearing it out, and slippage should not be an issue. I had read many places of people super gluing one together, but just using one already together seems so much more logical.
Some interesting nuances I found were the counter shaft bracket in the book shows 2 oiless bushings. Mine had none. I will have to replace the shaft as the previous owner seems to have failed at lubrication at this critical point.
Since mine like most did not come with the original electric motor, I have some tinkering to get everything set they way I like it. This is a 3/4 hp motor and can run on single phase 220 which is my choice. It just does not sit on the mounting bracket the way I like it.  Turret is completely cleaned, and painted, just awaiting final re-assembly, same with the saddle. Once motor is mounted, I will wire it and fire it....so stoked.  Was worried about the taper attachment but I got lucky and it appears there will be no clearance issues.... photos to follow later today...


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## eeler1

".... photos to follow later today..."    Was just about to say.............


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

And here you can see the taper attachment mocked up, still have 4 parts to make, the drive belt.  After that motor is connected, I will spin the lathe around and finish the carriage.  This has been fun...


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

The electrical motor is gonna give me fits... They had a 3/4 hp motor, but it did not fit quite right and it looked like the mounts were under tons of stress. Now I am trying to put it back but parts keep hitting in places I don't think it should hit.  It came wired for 110 volts, and it can be wired for 220. It has a thread on chuck, which reminds me of safety issues if placed into reverse it "could" un-thread itself.  I have a nice 6 terminal drum switch, (see the very first photo).

Now that being said, I have a brand new 1/2 hp motor that is smaller and fits on the mount much better, it also can be wired for 220, just needs a pulley which I can get locally.  Not sure which way to go.......
On to the next thought, the belt cover acts as a tensioner for the belt. I am thinking that I want zero slippage, period. So anyone had an slippage issues with the current set up?

Also note the mounts under the cover that are supposed to be rubber??? I made some out of Delrin, before the light went on. Those are isolation mounts so I went to the local hardware store got 2 rubber stoppers and I will make them out of rubber and replace in the very near future.

And Not sure how I am going to deal with the counter shaft bracket....manual I ordered from Logan shows lathes after serial number 40115 to have (2) oiless bushings.....mine has none.  Because of that the shaft is quite worn and will need replaced, but without the bushings it will repeat the failure. So off to work I go to bore out the bracket and install 2 bushings with grease fittings, as I am not comfortable with just oil there.  Only have one more week off till I have to go back to work, looks like I won't get this up and running but going to push hard....

Till the next update...


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Ok, the motor(s) have officially pi**ed me off.  the 1/2 hp is a 48 frame and I can only get 2 bolts to hold it down.  The 3/4 hp I can't bolt down because of the housing that holds the wiring is in the flipping way, and I can't find ANY way to solve it...I can only assume the PO used the 3/4 motor as that is what was on it, but I can't figure it out. I do NOT want to hack the lathe casting to relive for the wiring housing...Here is the photo with the 3/4 hp Baldor motor...I have almost 1/2 inch of interference, and no the motor wont go out any further without losing the front 2 attachment bolts, and I cant slide it any more towards the belt as the front of the motor is almost touching the fan guard now...  Gonna be effing pi** if I have to buy another motor, cuz that will require begging the wife for more "toy" funds


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## Silverbullet

Is that the wiring box ? If it is have you plenty of room for your wires ? Now if you can you may be able to cut part of the box away or move the box on the motor turn it sideways or end for end just be careful if you drill to put sheet metal screws in !! If you can move the box I bet a couple of long zip ties would hold the box on . There has to be away to make it work fab a new motor mount not real hard to do .if ya were close to me I bet I could help ya.


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Yup that is the wiring box....
I replaced the counter shaft today, I suppose I could cobble something, but really wanted to avoid that near anything electrical. The 1/2 hp motors frame is the wrong size so I can't use that one....Always something..LOL


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## Silverbullet

Ya kinda have to accept that when doing work like that . Remember anyone who's done rebuilds has to deal with these PITA things. It's what makes it fun really.


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## A618fan2

I'm not familiar with that motor but sometimes you can loosen the bell screws and rotate the sheet metal motor band (between the bells) to provide a little extra clearance.   It's worth a try.

John


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## 4GSR

Punch a hole in top of the pecker head and run your wires in from the top.


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Ok, I can turn that box around but you gotta realize the box is over 1/2" out of location. And no way to blot that box down with it out of position... getting ready to take a chuck outta the side of the cast iron side to give room for the wire box...


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## Silverbullet

usually the wires come out of the motor from one end of the box , so if you can turn the box it should make up at least the half inch you need??? Ck it and see before you start cuttin !!! or make a wedge to tilt the motor or make a plate to move the motor sideways , think clearer not quicker !


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

OK, the hole in the box is not the issue, the entire box itself needs to move towards you in the photo...Look at the gasket and you will see how much it has to move... it can't be rotated because that then causes a misalignment of the pulley and housing on the other side...


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## Silverbullet

sorry your not understanding me . I mean open the box and look inside to see where the wires come out of the motor, then the box is bolted to the outside of the motor. up to you I'm trying  but you have to look and think things out too. now if the wires come out on an end you can undo the screws holding the box to the motor turn the box  ninety degrees or one hundred eighty degrees and drill new holes and mount the box , now don't drill deep just thru the metal  use the same short screws and remount on the angle that gives you room. if the box can't be turned by a new motor.   I'm talking about the box that's on the motor blocking  the movement  if all else take the box off and wrap your wires good with electric tape making sure they can't rub any sharp metal .


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Ok, now that is better understood.  My only concern would be the drill going too far into the housing when the new holes are drilled...


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

And it is now powered up, but LOTS of noise..... me thinks the motor, but going to check everything out first..WOOHOO!!!!!!!!!!!

It is the motor, so now to tear it down put the chip pan in and re-assemble with the new motor...Very stoked...


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

So now everything is together, I have 4 bolts to clean up and put back in the turret, I have oiled every gits cup, and both non existent oil cups on the counter shaft yoke. There are only holes and NO threads...quite odd, and add to that fact there are NO bushings on the counter shaft yoke???????? Parts lists CLEARLY calls for 2 bushings... Interesting, well I know 2 things I gotta make then.  aside from that I filled the automatic apron up with oil, until it started to come out the set screw.  During assembly I kept referring to the parts list and realized, there is NO gasket between the 2 halves?????
I can't imagine 2 metal halves keeping oil in place and with the work I have gone thru, I don't want to keep filling this thing with oil.  So I made sure both sides were clean, dry and free of dirt...When assembled I use Quicksilver Bellows adhesive.  Waited 4 days before adding the oil  and dang....it leaks...UGGH!!!!!  Now to drain it, tear it back down and make a gasket.. Unless someone has a better idea?

Oh here is the completed project:  Ready to make final parts for the taper attachment as well.


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## eeler1

I used liquid (?) gasket, comes in a tube from the auto parts store.  No leak now.

And wow, that's looking good.


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

This is the same stuff I use to seal outboard lower units from leakage, and never had a failure...And thanks, VERY happy with the outcome...


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

OK, I am back    Well here goes, lathe runs well, cuts true, like it should, but.
The counter shaft, shows having bushings, per the drawing. Mine has NEVER had them. I think that if it was a replacement it should have them. That implies mine is original. A whole lot of friction going on back there.  See attached photo, there is wear in the yoke as well, so I am thinking bushings?I would LOVE to put roller bearings with oil seals, but that would require a hardened shaft, and I used that for the taper attachment   Oiled @ less than 20 minute intervals.....

So I am thinking .125 wall thickness on the bushings?  They would be somewhat easily replaceable, but I don't want to replace them yearly..

Thoughts?

You can see the stripes already with less than an hour of run time...


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## Herk

Ours never had them originally either, but it does now.  I used commonly available oilite bushing stock that was 7/8" OD and 3/4" ID (I think).  The shaft itself was a piece of common non-keyed shaft stock. I think I dropped $20 at my local bearing supply house for everything.  Be careful as you drill the yoke.  In the end I needed to line ream to correct alignment, which left the contact a couple thou  gappy in a couple spots, but it's far better then it was, and should wear a lot longer.  I've contemplated fitting oil cups or grease fittings as the small oil holes tend to get skipped when the machine gets lubed.


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Very discouraged on the gasket used to "seal" apron assembly. I tightened it twice, and every day religiously it seeps, which means the seal failed. What the heck.... I cant fathom it having nothing from the factory and NOT leaking, so I add a seal and it STILL leaks...LOL


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## eeler1

Bummer, did you let it season for a few days?  Mine worked perfect, but I let it sit for a couple days before filling with oil.


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## Tuna Helper

I used RTV on my apron. I don't think it leaks, but I haven't checked it lately either. 

What exactly were the steps to take the headstock apart? I tried once before when I first got my 820 but didn't have any success.


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## Richard White (richardsrelics)

Your in Fort Wayne??? I am in Kendallville right north of Drake Road. Care for a road trip? I will gladly show you... If you want to bring your head stock, I will gladly help you...


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