# Griz Indus. SB Parts



## Kroll (Jan 5, 2014)

Guys I guess I'm not doing it right but when I go to Griz SB website for parts,I type in the part #'s and hit the Add to Cart button nothing happens.One of the gears(QCGB 10L) #32 AS426R1 is kinda mess up and I really wanted to see what a new one would cost,I did look over on the auction site could not find one.So I went back and log in then gave it another try still nothing.This has happen to me in the past,so I just send them and email and wait afew days for a responce back.So what am I doing wrong,whats the trick----kroll
*Note:*I think I found my answer "Available only as sub assembly"


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## Jonesturf (Jan 5, 2014)

Doesn't work for me either. There is a phone number to call. Its just easier that way and quick. Be prepared its probably going to be expensive. 

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## 110octane (Jan 5, 2014)

Jonesturf said:


> Doesn't work for me either. There is a phone number to call. Its just easier that way and quick. Be prepared its probably going to be expensive.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2



I was able to do this about 4 moths ago.  I was using it to identify interchangeable components and check price.  When I get serious about ordering something, I use the telephone tech line.  They have been helpful and I can't really complain about most of the pricing.  The prices for bits for their "South Bend" line are insane.  Just a few short years ago Harbor Freight had great spare parts prices, but those days are gone.  HF is making it almost impossible to order spares and the service is poor.  I haven't tried ENCO or Baileigh Industrial.  Geoff


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## cuseguy (Jan 6, 2014)

What you have to do is add the letters PSB at the start of  every part # . If the part doesn't load into your cart within about 30 seconds, Grizzly doesn't have it. Another trick is that many SB parts end in R1, R2 etc.. it is the SB revision number. If it comes back empty, change the revision number to one later or one earlier. Then hopefully it will load into your cart. After the sticker shock wears off.....you then realize that the price gouging on ebay doesn't seem all that unreasonable anymore! 

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## cuseguy (Jan 7, 2014)

The prices are very high for some things, but hard to find hardware is pretty reasonable. Your gears may not be too unreasonable.  The other reasonable item that I found is threading stops. I got one for my 10L for $39.95. 

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## Kroll (Jan 7, 2014)

So if I need the sliding gear and the part # is PT654R1 I would put PSB in front of the PT,if nothing pops up change the R1 to R2 is this correct cuseguy???


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## cuseguy (Jan 7, 2014)

You got it buddy! I just bought some stuff from there today and the "R" switch is what found it. 

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## cuseguy (Jan 12, 2014)

When I bought my first Heavy 10, it had the original SB belt...the Extremontus model that SB sold back then. Best belt I ever used on a SB. Skivved and Glued ends so it made zero noise and it gripped almost as good as serpentine belts. When that finally broke, I went the serpentine route and have stitched them ever since. Problem is...I use my machines alot. They get 8 solid hours of hogging stainless daily. That tends to pull the stitching through the belts within about 3-4 months no matter how its done. 
Long story short...I punched in the part # of the old South Bend Extremontus belt kit, which includes the adhesive...
And it was in stock! Not cheap at $72. And I got the belt gluing clamp also at $32. So hopefully for $100+, this solves my belt problems!

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## 110octane (Jan 12, 2014)

cuseguy said:


> When I bought my first Heavy 10, it had the original SB belt...the Extremontus model that SB sold back then. Best belt I ever used on a SB. Skivved and Glued ends so it made zero noise and it gripped almost as good as serpentine belts. When that finally broke, I went the serpentine route and have stitched them ever since. Problem is...I use my machines alot. They get 8 solid hours of hogging stainless daily. That tends to pull the stitching through the belts within about 3-4 months no matter how its done.
> Long story short...I punched in the part # of the old South Bend Extremontus belt kit, which includes the adhesive...
> And it was in stock! Not cheap at $72. And I got the belt gluing clamp also at $32. So hopefully for $100+, this solves my belt problems!
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


It ruins the originality of the machine, but have you considered grooving the drive/spindle pulleys for poly V belt?  I did this with my Logan 10" and it pulls like a tractor.  I have never experienced a belt slip since.  (This could prove a bad attribute in case of a "crash".)  I don't envy you in machining stainless, that stuff is mean and stringy.  Grade 303 does as well as any.  It's a little difficult to find in every section one would like, it cannot be welded, and I don't know about corrosion resistant properties.  303 cannot possibly be as corrosion resistant as 316 or 316L, but that stuff will try the patience of anything short of a massive CNC machining center with specialty tooling! 
Geoff


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## cuseguy (Jan 12, 2014)

Yeah we work completely in 304 and 316L and it is tough stuff. You are right....303 is not as corrosion resistant and is actually quite different in composition to 304/316. We do have a Haas VF-3 mill but really need a Haas ST or some turning center. We get by with a pair of old Hardinge Omniturns for cnc turning along with our manual  lathes...a pair of 10L's and my hlv-h. edit: forgot we have 2 DV59 2nd op lathes also! We also have a pair of Bridgey J-heads, a 6x6 cnc plasma cutter, a Harig Surface grinder and few other machines to get the work done. 

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## cuseguy (Jan 12, 2014)

110octane said:


> It ruins the originality of the machine, but have you considered grooving the drive/spindle pulleys for poly V belt?  I did this with my Logan 10" and it pulls like a tractor.  I have never experienced a belt slip since.  (This could prove a bad attribute in case of a "crash".)  I don't envy you in machining stainless, that stuff is mean and stringy.  Grade 303 does as well as any.  It's a little difficult to find in every section one would like, it cannot be welded, and I don't know about corrosion resistant properties.  303 cannot possibly be as corrosion resistant as 316 or 316L, but that stuff will try the patience of anything short of a massive CNC machining center with specialty tooling!
> Geoff



I went off on a tangent and forgot to answer the question! The grooved pulley idea is great, but I have a couple of fairly inexperienced lathe operators and belt slip is actually a good safety factor for them. It's why I have shied away from gearhead lathes. It saves my equipment, tooling and comp claims!

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## 110octane (Jan 12, 2014)

cuseguy said:


> I went off on a tangent and forgot to answer the question! The grooved pulley idea is great, but I have a couple of fairly inexperienced lathe operators and belt slip is actually a good safety factor for them. It's why I have shied away from gearhead lathes. It saves my equipment, tooling and comp claims!
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3


Excellent response.  I have avoided (read lucky) a couple of crashes with a cut off tool just because I am old and gray.  A neophyte could get seriously hurt.  So could I, it could happen.  I try to treat every setup (especially one that I have not tried or have had previous trouble) as I would a firearm; always treat every firearm as if it is loaded and chambered, regardless of whether you have personally cleared it-it is still a weapon and has immense potential danger.
Regards, Geoff


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