# types of steel ..which is easiest to machine..relative cost



## drsorey (Jul 31, 2014)

Newbe question..
If you were looking for a type of steel that will give a great surface finish and doesn't cost a arm and a leg, where would you start?  I have access to plain cold rolled steel, but finish is tough to get smooth, can't heat treat, but price is really cheap.  I have tried the "drill rods" from Enco, but anything over 1" is prohibitive.  Learning seems to generate a lot of waste from errors (newbe).  What is your opinion?
Thanks
D Sorey
Tunica, MS


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## schor (Jul 31, 2014)

Cold rolled steel. Learn to get the speeds and feeds right and the right grind and you can get a good finish.

What are you using for tooling? hss and/or carbide?


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## Ray C (Jul 31, 2014)

drsorey said:


> Newbe question..
> If you were looking for a type of steel that will give a great surface finish and doesn't cost a arm and a leg, where would you start?  I have access to plain cold rolled steel, but finish is tough to get smooth, can't heat treat, but price is really cheap.  I have tried the "drill rods" from Enco, but anything over 1" is prohibitive.  Learning seems to generate a lot of waste from errors (newbe).  What is your opinion?
> Thanks
> D Sorey
> Tunica, MS



4140 pre-hard is a good option if you want a metal that will give a good surface finish.

If you make a part the wrong size, that might be considered an error As you start out, don't grade yourself too heavily on surface finish because that takes a long time to learn before you can start calling the shots. 


Ray


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## wnec65 (Jul 31, 2014)

For model work I use 12L14.  It machines easy and will give you a nice finish with both carbide and HSS tooling.


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## Frank Ford (Jul 31, 2014)

I'll second the recommendation to get some 12L14.  It's a dream to turn, and is just the stuff for practice along with  LOTS of projects and uses.  I use it all the time for just about everything.  Only downside is that it rusts like crazy.  So, if you are bothered by stains or rusty looking fingerprints, bear that in mind.  I've bought quite a lot off eBay in the form of "drops" or cutoffs from sellers who work in various production shops, so by now I have a full inventory of shorts I need up to about two inches diameter.

Some folks say it's too soft for making things like tool holders, collets, or whatever, but for home shop use, that's never a real issue.


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## richard_rex (Jul 31, 2014)

I wouldn't be thinking of drill rod, unless you are planning on heat treating it, or unless it's for an usually demanding application. It's tough to machine, and can dull HSS tools quite quickly. On the plus side, drill rod is usually ground to respectable tolerances, so can be used for some shafting apps. For general use in the shop, my first choice is 12L14, or 1215 (also easy to machine, but no lead). Downside is that 12L14 material is only available off the shelf in round rod, hex rod and square sections. So if that doesn't work for you, use 1018 instead - hundreds of sections available. For overnight availability (for me in the NE anyway) try McMaster Carr. Everything's in stock, but beware of shipping costs these days - better to get a good size package of various needs instead or ordering in bits and pieces. McMCarr doesn't load up its shipping cost like some other suppliers, but it's still expensive (get a verbal estimate before ordering). For what it's worth, I use carbide throwaway inserts for 90% of my regular turning, including threading. Years ago, I spent more time grinding HSS than I did producing on the lathe. I go to McMCarr for the inserts, such as 3240A137, and I have 1/2" L and R holders for them from the same source. For threading I use inserts from Mesa Tools. None of this stuff is inexpensive, but it can save you hours of frustration.


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## DMS (Jul 31, 2014)

May also try 1144 stressproof. If you are just practicing, 1018 is probably the cheapest steel. You may also consider aluminum.


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