# Welding cart build



## DavidR8

I need a new welding cart to hold my MIG and TIG machines. 
I have a sheet metal one for my MIG but the addition of TIG to the shop means that cart is too small. 

I lucked into a serious warehouse cart for $50 so it’s going to be metal supply. 






I cut it into its major components tonight and it’s a heap of 1” square steel. 




I’m going to design it so that I can take advantage of the bent corners as much as possible. 
Stay tuned!


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## Ken from ontario

With some careful planning you can make a solid welding cart out of it for sure, it does need some sheet metal added to it to stiffen it a bit, maybe a few small sheets of checker plate. so far so good.


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## Alcap

Not sure what kind/type of welding bench you have but that hinged shelf might make a nice folding table for small jobs that stays with the welders .


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## C-Bag

ooooohhhh that looks like my kinda fun! Another good score. Back in the 90’s I took what was supposed to be a temp fab job installing a fruit sizer. We were always on our own in tight places and the main welder was a little Lincoln 175 mig. Where we lived the old guy who owned the place used to own the local grocery store and there was a pile of the old heavy duty carts in back. I took one of those and made a very tidy little cart for the welder and small Co2 bottle with a tray on top for consumables and tools. I’m always trying to recreate that cart except with my little HyperTherm plasma added on. Your cart has all the right stuff, it’s all about picturing the detail and executing. Definitely watching.


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## Janderso

David,
You sure you didn't mug a homeless person for that nice cart?


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## DavidR8

Alcap said:


> Not sure what kind/type of welding bench you have but that hinged shelf might make a nice folding table for small jobs that stays with the welders .


Funny you mention that as I've been thinking about the possibility of having a hinged table off the  side...


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## DavidR8

C-Bag said:


> ooooohhhh that looks like my kinda fun! Another good score. Back in the 90’s I took what was supposed to be a temp fab job installing a fruit sizer. We were always on our own in tight places and the main welder was a little Lincoln 175 mig. Where we lived the old guy who owned the place used to own the local grocery store and there was a pile of the old heavy duty carts in back. I took one of those and made a very tidy little cart for the welder and small Co2 bottle with a tray on top for consumables and tools. I’m always trying to recreate that cart except with my little HyperTherm plasma added on. Your cart has all the right stuff, it’s all about picturing the detail and executing. Definitely watching.


It  was definitely a score.  Didn't take more  than 20 mins to reduce it to its major pieces. 
The swivelling casters have seen better days but I have a bunch of casters that I've collected over the years so I can probably sort that out easily. 
I'd like to make hangers for hoses, rod holders, a drawer for consumables and space for two 110 cu ft tanks. 
I don't think I can design this in my head this time around. Might have to resort to paper


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## C-Bag

Because I am the epitome of a broken record, in my overstuffed under sized shop unit specific storage is paramount as I usually have to move things around and that always seems to block storage if it’s not with the machine. I picked up a couple of 3 drawer file cabinets for free thanks to mikri and one I finally got built into my drilling center. The other I want to put under my mig/plasma cart. The two letter drawers are great for tooling/consumables and the bottom file drawer is perfect for my welding hood, gloves and gator sleeves. Much better than hanging on the outside as it doesn’t accumulate dust on the lens. 

Just got the UniDrill up on it’s stand with the cab in it. Cant ever seem to get to paint. Next hopefully will be building the welding cart.


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## DavidR8

I've thought about putting the MIG and TIG side by side and putting a file cabinet underneath. Just a bit concerned about the  width as I'd like to keep a narrow footprint.
The MIG is 10" W, the TIG is 12" W x 22 D so it is effectively setting the machine footprint. Side by side the two tanks are basically 15" wide.
If I put the machines side by side, I'd have a minimum width of about 24" once some rod and cable holders are in place.
I have 16" long, 100lb capacity full extension drawer slides so I'm thinking about a side opening drawer which would avoid the tangle of hoses that comes off the front of the machines.


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## C-Bag

That sounds like exactly what I was thinking about but with the cab facing front because the machines are facing sideways with the power cords and c-clamps on one side and the work and grounds on the other. My cheapo present solution is sideways on an old HF handtruck cart they used to sell. The only thing that really sticks out is the rubber anti kink boot on the mig stinger.


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## Janderso

I built a nice cart for my TIG, MIG, Plasma and bottles.
I'm now thinking of placing the tanks in a corner and running tubing to the welders on my table shelf.
By doing this, I gain the floor space from losing the cart.
The jury is still out on this one.
I'm trying to figure out where to put the band saw.
I have the horizontal milling machine that I have only used once. (Ulma Doc donation) I could never get rid of it.
Small shops are us.


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## DavidR8

Janderso said:


> I built a nice cart for my TIG, MIG, Plasma and bottles.
> I'm now thinking of placing the tanks in a corner and running tubing to the welders on my table shelf.
> By doing this, I gain the floor space from losing the cart.
> The jury is still out on this one.
> I'm trying to figure out where to put the band saw.
> I have the horizontal milling machine that I have only used once. (Ulma Doc donation) I could never get rid of it.
> Small shops are us.


Do you have some pics of your cart Jeff?


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## Janderso

DavidR8 said:


> Do you have some pics of your cart Jeff?


I've added more hangers. You can't have enough large hooks for cables, extension cords, face shields, welding helmets, etc.

I'm not real happy with it. It wasn't my best effort.


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## Aaron_W

I have the same machine as Jeff but don't have a plasma cutter. 
I built a cart from square tube steel and sheet metal as my project for my MIG class. Almost all the metal came from the cut off area at a metal supply, so it was pretty cheap to build. Only issue is using steel that was available cheap rather than most appropriate combined with my natural tendency to overbuild resulted in a cart that is probably twice the weight it needs to be. I think if it rolled out into traffic and got hit by a truck, the truck would lose.  

I need to be very mobile since I store the welder in the basement but have to weld outside on a dirt surface so I use the smaller tanks that are about 3 feet tall, and 8" casters with pneumatic tires for better cross country performance. The length of the machine with the tanks resulted in a very long narrow cart so I mounted the 2 tanks on the side beside the welder which gives the cart more of a square profile.

I'm away from home right now but can post some photos sometime next week.


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## DavidR8

Aaron_W said:


> I have the same machine as Jeff but don't have a plasma cutter.
> I built a cart from square tube steel and sheet metal as my project for my MIG class. Almost all the metal came from the cut off area at a metal supply, so it was pretty cheap to build. Only issue is using steel that was available cheap rather than most appropriate combined with my natural tendency to overbuild resulted in a cart that is probably twice the weight it needs to be. I think if it rolled out into traffic and got hit by a truck, the truck would lose.
> 
> I need to be very mobile since I store the welder in the basement but have to weld outside on a dirt surface so I use the smaller tanks that are about 3 feet tall, and 8" casters with pneumatic tires for better cross country performance. The length of the machine with the tanks resulted in a very long narrow cart so I mounted the 2 tanks on the side beside the welder which gives the cart more of a square profile.
> 
> I'm away from home right now but can post some photos sometime next week.


Pictures would be great. 
I'm considering putting the tanks on the side. It would end up being about 4" wider than the having two tanks side by side at the back. Overall depth would be about 9" less which is a consideration.


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## Aaron_W

DavidR8 said:


> Pictures would be great.
> I'm considering putting the tanks on the side. It would end up being about 4" wider than the having two tanks side by side at the back. Overall depth would be about 9" less which is a consideration.



Yeah, putting them on the back made the cart something like 26" wide and 44" long, putting them on the side made it more like 30x36.


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## DavidR8

Here’s one sketch, tanks at the back. TIG on top, drawer under that, then MIG and a space underneath for the foot pedal and other flotsam.
(It should be completely obvious that I failed out of art school  )







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## mickri

I picked up a bunch of those 3 drawer rolling file cabinets awhile back thanks to C-Bag for telling me how great they are.  I mounted my little HF welder on one.  The big bottom drawer holds the helmet, gloves and welding jacket.  I have most of my soldering stuff in the middle drawer and the top drawer holds the clippers, hammers, etc.  Very handy to have drawers.  You should consider having some drawers in your cart.


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## DavidR8

mickri said:


> I picked up a bunch of those 3 drawer rolling file cabinets awhile back thanks to C-Bag for telling me how great they are.  I mounted my little HF welder on one.  The big bottom drawer holds the helmet, gloves and welding jacket.  I have most of my soldering stuff in the middle drawer and the top drawer holds the clippers, hammers, etc.  Very handy to have drawers.  You should consider having some drawers in your cart.


Definitely! I have a side opening drawer under the TIG shelf (the top shelf) it's not obvious because the drawing is so awful.


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## C-Bag

mickri said:


> I picked up a bunch of those 3 drawer rolling file cabinets awhile back thanks to C-Bag for telling me how great they are.  I mounted my little HF welder on one.  The big bottom drawer holds the helmet, gloves and welding jacket.  I have most of my soldering stuff in the middle drawer and the top drawer holds the clippers, hammers, etc.  Very handy to have drawers.  You should consider having some drawers in your cart.


It’s funny how I could never find those cabinets used until you pointed out the ones in town for FREE! I only grabbed two even though I think there was 3 or 4. It’s taken me all this time to find the material cheap and to make the cart for the UniDrill. Now I wish I’d gotten the other one even though I had no place to store it. Besides the welding cart I need one for the shaper. Mickri i had completely forgotten about the other welding torches and soldering stuff I have stowed in other drawers until you mentioned that. Right now the last 3 drawer is on a dolly with some of my welding stuff in it. The least I can do it get all my welding and soldering gear into it and centralized until I get the cart built.


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## francist

DavidR8 said:


> it's not obvious because the drawing is so awful.


Nothing wrong with your drawing, I knew exactly where the drawer was. And probably a lot better than my welding too!


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## DavidR8

francist said:


> Nothing wrong with your drawing, I knew exactly where the drawer was. And probably a lot better than my welding too!


Thanks Frank, a large amount of a Staedler eraser met an inglorious end this evening. Isometric views are not my strong suit, though it got easier as I went along.


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## C-Bag

DavidR8 said:


> Thanks Frank, a large amount of a Staedler eraser met an inglorious end this evening. Isometric views are not my strong suit, though it got easier as I went along.


Isometric is the only way to go IMHO. It conveys everything in one picture, instead of 3. When I’d do sketches for the fab shop I’d always do isometric with dimensions and I always got what I wanted the first time.


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## DavidR8

C-Bag said:


> Isometric is the only way to go IMHO. It conveys everything in one picture, instead of 3. When I’d do sketches for the fab shop I’d always do isometric with dimensions and I always got what I wanted the first time.


I think it's a matter of practice for me. Trying to twist my brain to put the lines in the right places visually instead of how they are attached. (I don't expect that makes any kind of sense....)


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## erikmannie

I have a bunch of Miller carts as in the photos below. I use the dual cylinder one as my O/A cart. 

I copied the “TIG Runner” cart for a fun project. These carts are as narrow as can be, but you can hang all kinds of things on the side.

Making your own welding cart is a super fun project!


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## mickri

You need to use google sketchup.  You can download it for free.  Get the book sketchup for dummies.  I use it for all of my drawings.  It has a few quirks like any program  All in all it is very easy to learn and very user friendly.  For me it is just like drawing with pencil and paper. You end up with a 3d drawing that you can rotate to any view you want.  One tip that makes drawing easier is to break your drawing into groups.  That way you can work on each group without messing up other parts of the drawing.


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## C-Bag

Sketchup for dummies....whoda thunk? For some reason working on a computer program crosswires me. It’s like the creative part of me disconnects. I’ve tried Sketchup with the online tutorial and it seemed like more work than a pencil and paper. I’ll look into the dummy book ‘cause I are one.


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## C-Bag

DavidR8 said:


> I think it's a matter of practice for me. Trying to twist my brain to put the lines in the right places visually instead of how they are attached. (I don't expect that makes any kind of sense....)


I first took mechanical drawing in 7th grade summer school as a unit in wood shop. Honestly, I liked that the best as wood is not my preferred medium. I ended up taking mech drawing all through high school and was the only class I got straight A’s in. Because I used to draw I knew all about perspective and that’s what isometric is. In 7th grade iso was optional and I was the only one who did it for extra credit. Everybody has quirks, iso was mine, meanwhile I suck at math.


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## mickri

If you are good at iso then sketchup should be a breeze for you.  I use parallel  projection, not perspective, and start all of my drawings in top view.  Once the basic shape is drawn I then tilt the drawing to whatever is a convenient angle.  Now you are drawing in a 3d view.  Using guide lines, guide points and the compass feature is very helpful.  And always break your drawing into lots of groups.  Otherwise it can be very time consuming and even frustrating to fix errors or make changes.  You can draw in feet and inches or metric.   In feet and inches you can draw in either fractions or decimals.  In decimal inches the precision is 0.0000"  In fractions the precision is 1/64" 

I find online tutorials to be slow and time consuming because you have to constantly jump back and forth between your drawing and the tutorial.  Much easier with the book because you can have the book open while doing the drawing.  Or if you have two computers that would work to.  One to do the drawing and one to have the tutorial.

A couple of hours doing a drawing to get the basics down and you will be on your way to quickly draw anything that you can imagine.


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## mickri

Did a quick sketchup drawing of your welding cart.  This just a preliminary drawing.  I can add more stuff later


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## DavidR8

mickri said:


> Did a quick sketchup drawing of your welding cart. This just a preliminary drawing. I can add more stuff later
> 
> View attachment 332102



Wow, that’s super decent of you @mickri!


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## General Zod

mickri said:


> Did a quick sketchup drawing of your welding cart.  This just a preliminary drawing.  I can add more stuff later
> 
> View attachment 332102



Very nice work.  I tried to learn sketchup, but I just found it time-consuming since CAD isn't my strongsuit.  One day......


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## DavidR8

General Zod said:


> Very nice work. I tried to learn sketchup, but I just found it time-consuming since CAD isn't my strongsuit. One day......



I played with it yesterday and had good success following a tutorial. 
I failed miserably at Fusion 360 but I think I can become functional at SketchUp. 


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## General Zod

DavidR8 said:


> I played with it yesterday and had good success following a tutorial.
> I failed miserably at Fusion 360 but I think I can become functional at SketchUp.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



The one thing I absolutely hate about Sketchup is that I can't pan/rotate without going to the little icon menu to select such options.  I'm used to using right/left click buttons to do so, the few times I have used CAD.


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## Boswell

I have been using cad system, mostly Autocad but some others. One of the key things I have found to keep my sanity is a mouse with programmable buttons, the more the better.  These are often sold as Gaming Mouses. I keep one programed for PAN another for Zoom and sometimes other key functions or variations like Zoom Extents.  Usually the mouse wheel works well for Zoom. I can also get good at zooming out wide, then pointing to where I want to move to and zoom back in. with a little practice, this can be done very quickly.  Autocad has a great function called 3d-Orbit that is awesome for moving around in 3d space. Not sure if F360 or sketchup has this. 

Another thing to consider and I believe this to be true of pretty much all types of software. The capability of a software application is inversely proportional to the ease of learning the application.   In other words, Software that is easy to learn will likely present limits on function or speed at some point and Software that is very capable and efficient to use, will take much longer to learn.  Not saying one is better than the other, just a relationship that I see over and over with software applications and frankly many other things in life.


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## mickri

I spend maybe about 90 minutes on the drawing I posted.  Could have done it much quicker if I hadn't made everything .060 thick.  The trays and the drawer I drew as if I was starting with a flat sheet of .060 steel and thinking how it would get bend to form the tray or drawer.  The framework is 1x1x.060 wall.  Also everything is divided into groups.  The casters are a group.  The bottom and top trays are separate groups.  The frame is a group.  The drawer is a group.  Using lots of groups makes it really easy to fix errors.  For example.  I made the drawer slightly too wide.  Took seconds to narrower because it was its own group.  If I hadn't made it in its own group I would have had to make changes to the frame.

I don't like using a mouse.  I am an excellent typist and any time my fingers leave the keyboard things really slow down.  I use a laptop with both a touch pad and a small joystick to move the courser.  I mostly use the touch pad.  Here is a screen shot of how I have sketchup set up with the buttons I use the most.  The only buttons I would like to add that I haven't been able to figure out how to add them are the "delete guides", "dimensions", "hide", and "unhide".  I'll have to research how to make a custom toolbar someday.


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## Saguaro Slim

DavidR8 said:


> Here’s one sketch, tanks at the back. TIG on top, drawer under that, then MIG and a space underneath for the foot pedal and other flotsam.
> (It should be completely obvious that I failed out of art school  )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I would consider having the MIG on top, simply because you have to change the spool occasionally. I've never opened my TIG...


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## General Zod

mickri said:


> I spend maybe about 90 minutes on the drawing I posted.  Could have done it much quicker if I hadn't made everything .060 thick.  The trays and the drawer I drew as if I was starting with a flat sheet of .060 steel and thinking how it would get bend to form the tray or drawer.  The framework is 1x1x.060 wall.  Also everything is divided into groups.  The casters are a group.  The bottom and top trays are separate groups.  The frame is a group.  The drawer is a group.  Using lots of groups makes it really easy to fix errors.  For example.  I made the drawer slightly too wide.  Took seconds to narrower because it was its own group.  If I hadn't made it in its own group I would have had to make changes to the frame.
> 
> I don't like using a mouse.  I am an excellent typist and any time my fingers leave the keyboard things really slow down.  I use a laptop with both a touch pad and a small joystick to move the courser.  I mostly use the touch pad.  Here is a screen shot of how I have sketchup set up with the buttons I use the most.  The only buttons I would like to add that I haven't been able to figure out how to add them are the "delete guides", "dimensions", "hide", and "unhide".  I'll have to research how to make a custom toolbar someday.
> 
> View attachment 332214



hmm that's not the web-based version.  Is that a downloadable executable?


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## mickri

You can download sketchup for free.  Here is a link to what I have.  https://download.cnet.com/SketchUp-Make-2017/3000-6677_4-10257337.html

Although it is still referred to as Google Sketchup it is actually a program by Trimble.  Trimble will push you to use the web browser.  But you can only use that when you are online.  Sketchup Make 2017 is a stand alone program that can be used offline.


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## larry4406

All of the welding carts I see have small wheels in the 3-5" diameter range, suitable for rolling on concrete or asphalt although a pebble or nut can easily jam a wheel.  I would like to see some designs with larger diameter pneumatic wheels suitable for wheeling across rough surfaces and yards.


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## Aaron_W

larry4406 said:


> All of the welding carts I see have small wheels in the 3-5" diameter range, suitable for rolling on concrete or asphalt although a pebble or nut can easily jam a wheel.  I would like to see some designs with larger diameter pneumatic wheels suitable for wheeling across rough surfaces and yards.



I put 8" pneumatic casters on mine for exactly that reason. I'm not going to be home until next weekend but I can get some photos then.


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## FOMOGO

The only issue with small pneumatic wheels a is the horrible quality of Chinese inner tubes, which seem to be the only option anymore. I've pretty much given up on them. Foam filled, or solid might be a better option. Mike



Aaron_W said:


> I put 8" pneumatic casters on mine for exactly that reason. I'm not going to be home until next weekend but I can get some photos then.


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## General Zod

FOMOGO said:


> The only issue with small pneumatic wheels a is the horrible quality of Chinese inner tubes, which seem to be the only option anymore. I've pretty much given up on them. Foam filled, or solid might be a better option. Mike



Harbor freight has some really nice solid 8-9" tires for about $10 or so.  I have some for a planned cart build myself.









						10 in. Solid Rubber Tire with Steel Hub
					

Amazing deals on this 10In Solid Rubber Tire With Steel Hub at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




					www.harborfreight.com


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## Aaron_W

General Zod said:


> Harbor freight has some really nice solid 8-9" tires for about $10 or so.  I have some for a planned cart build myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10 in. Solid Rubber Tire with Steel Hub
> 
> 
> Amazing deals on this 10In Solid Rubber Tire With Steel Hub at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.harborfreight.com



That is where I got mine too. Seem to be of similar quality to what I could find at Tractor Supply or Home Depot but 25% the price. 

Solid foam filled would be nice but I couldn't find any for a reasonable price.


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## General Zod

larry4406 said:


> All of the welding carts I see have small wheels in the 3-5" diameter range, suitable for rolling on concrete or asphalt although a pebble or nut can easily jam a wheel.  I would like to see some designs with larger diameter pneumatic wheels suitable for wheeling across rough surfaces and yards.



My cart will have those 10" solid tires I linked above, not because it will be going over rough terrain, but because the cart will have to support about 400lbs fully loaded.


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## DavidR8

I spent some time with SketchUp last night and this morning. This is what I came up with.
I couldn't figure out how to make radius corners but I will have radius corners on the upright in front of the tanks and the front corners of the shelves.
Oh and it will have casters 
32" long, 18" wide, 4 ft tall
Two 110 cu ft tanks
TIG on top
MIG on bottom
Side opening drawer under the TIG
Bottom shelf for TIG pedal, although I could make a bracket/holder on the side.
I didn't add cable hangers


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## DavidR8

Saguaro Slim said:


> I would consider having the MIG on top, simply because you have to change the spool occasionally. I've never opened my TIG...


The TIG is on the top so that the controls are easy to reach when I'm sitting at the welding table. I don't fuss with the MIG controls as much.


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## Buffalo21

What about the future TIG cooler??


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## DavidR8

Buffalo21 said:


> What about the future TIG cooler??


Hmmm good point. Allowing for something I haven't yet bought....


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## mickri

The radius is rather easy to do. First you draw the outline of the 1x1x.06 tubing.  Then I drew a line 18 inches up from the front left outside corner.  Next I drew a guide point 6" to the right and then another guide point 6" to the right of the first guide point.  Draw the radius using the arc command.  The guide point is the center of the arc. Then draw a 6" straight line from the radius.  Draw another radius followed by an 18" long line down.  This is what you should have.



Now you can either use the follow me command to draw the full piece or start with the push/pull command to extend the tubing up to an inch or so short of the first radius.  That's what I did because the follow me command can be a little difficult to get started if you can't see the start point clearly.




Now use the follow me command to draw in the rest of the tube.  When using the follow me command I have found that it is best to start an inch or so before a radius and to end an inch or so after the radius.  Otherwise the outside of the tube will still be at an angle.




Delete the guide points and you are done


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## lis2323

DavidR8 said:


> I need a new welding cart to hold my MIG and TIG machines.
> I have a sheet metal one for my MIG but the addition of TIG to the shop means that cart is too small.
> 
> I lucked into a serious warehouse cart for $50 so it’s going to be metal supply.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut it into its major components tonight and it’s a heap of 1” square steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I’m going to design it so that I can take advantage of the bent corners as much as possible.
> Stay tuned!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Haha. I saw that warehouse cart listed for sale!!


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## DavidR8

mickri said:


> The radius is rather easy to do. First you draw the outline of the 1x1x.06 tubing. Then I drew a line 18 inches up from the front left outside corner. Next I drew a guide point 6" to the right and then another guide point 6" to the right of the first guide point. Draw the radius using the arc command. The guide point is the center of the arc. Then draw a 6" straight line from the radius. Draw another radius followed by an 18" long line down. This is what you should have.
> View attachment 332276
> 
> 
> Now you can either use the follow me command to draw the full piece or start with the push/pull command to extend the tubing up to an inch or so short of the first radius. That's what I did because the follow me command can be a little difficult to get started if you can't see the start point clearly.
> 
> View attachment 332277
> 
> 
> Now use the follow me command to draw in the rest of the tube. When using the follow me command I have found that it is best to start an inch or so before a radius and to end an inch or so after the radius. Otherwise the outside of the tube will still be at an angle.
> 
> View attachment 332278
> 
> 
> Delete the guide points and you are done



Thanks ever so much for that tutorial. 
I’ll give it a whirl and see how I get on. 
It was relatively easy to draw what I did but I definitely want to be able to more accurately represent what I imagine. 


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## lis2323

Here are a few ideas for on board tank storage


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## DavidR8

lis2323 said:


> Haha. I saw that warehouse cart listed for sale!!



I thought you might have. 
It was a good deal for what I wanted. I could not have bought that much steel for $50. 

I wonder if I might prevail on you sometime to assist with a shear and break on a chunk of sheet metal for my bench top. 


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## lis2323

....and cable management


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## lis2323

DavidR8 said:


> I thought you might have.
> It was a good deal for what I wanted. I could not have bought that much steel for $50.
> 
> I wonder if I might prevail on you sometime to assist with a shear and brake on a chunk of sheet metal for my bench top.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



CAN DO. Give me a call.


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## Aaron_W

DavidR8 said:


> Hmmm good point. Allowing for something I haven't yet bought....



That was one of the tips I got from my welding instructor on building a cart. If you want to paint it, run it for a few months first because you are going to find things you want to add or change.


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## DavidR8

Aaron_W said:


> That was one of the tips I got from my welding instructor on building a cart. If you want to paint it, run it for a few months first because you are going to find things you want to add or change.



....and four years later my cart would still need paint 


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## DavidR8

mickri said:


> The radius is rather easy to do. First you draw the outline of the 1x1x.06 tubing.  Then I drew a line 18 inches up from the front left outside corner.  Next I drew a guide point 6" to the right and then another guide point 6" to the right of the first guide point.  Draw the radius using the arc command.  The guide point is the center of the arc. Then draw a 6" straight line from the radius.  Draw another radius followed by an 18" long line down.  This is what you should have.
> View attachment 332276
> 
> 
> Now you can either use the follow me command to draw the full piece or start with the push/pull command to extend the tubing up to an inch or so short of the first radius.  That's what I did because the follow me command can be a little difficult to get started if you can't see the start point clearly.
> 
> View attachment 332277
> 
> 
> Now use the follow me command to draw in the rest of the tube.  When using the follow me command I have found that it is best to start an inch or so before a radius and to end an inch or so after the radius.  Otherwise the outside of the tube will still be at an angle.
> 
> View attachment 332278
> 
> 
> Delete the guide points and you are done


Thanks very much for this!
I'm curious how you spec the wall thickness in Sketchup?


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## FOMOGO

And rod storage, used 11/2" pvc pipe for my tig cart. Mike


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## DavidR8

FOMOGO said:


> And rod storage, used 11/2" pvc pipe for my tig cart. Mike


Thanks Mike, I forgot to add rod storage.  Definitely on my list.


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## mickri

First use the rectangle command to draw a 1" square.  Then there are two ways to get the wall thickness.  The long way is to set guide lines .06 in from each side and then draw in the lines.  The easy way is to use the offset command with .06 and it will draw all of the lines for you.  The last step is to highlight the center and delete it.  Now you have a 1x1x .06 wall tube cross section.

Have you downloaded sketchup make 2017? You should and then set up the toolbars like I have them in the screen shot I posted.  I tried a bunch of different arrangements for the toolbars before finally settling on the layout posted.  I found that layout to be the most convenient for me.

Another thing I did after using sketchup for awhile was to take each command and see what it did and how to use it.  I wish I had done this to start with.  I still reference my Sketchup for Dummies book whenever I haven't done something in awhile.  Or when things don't seem to go the way I expected them to.  And I can't overemphasis the need to break your drawing down into lots of groups.  Each component should be in its own group.  It makes life much easier.


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## Aaron_W

Sorry owe you some photos. I'm headed out of town again so just some taken in its cubby hole in the shop will have to do.


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## DavidR8

Aaron_W said:


> Sorry owe you some photos. I'm headed out of town again so just some taken in its cubby hole in the shop will have to do.
> 
> View attachment 333937
> 
> 
> View attachment 333938



Thanks Aaron. 
Looks like you’re running CO2 for your MIG. Or am I mistaken?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## General Zod

Yea that looks like a 20lb CO₂ tank and perhaps a small Argon tank?  Someone who could use one of my Frankenmixers so they can have both Ar for TIG (or MIG aluminum) and be able to mix their own C25 (or C10) when they feel like it.


----------



## Aaron_W

DavidR8 said:


> Thanks Aaron.
> Looks like you’re running CO2 for your MIG. Or am I mistaken?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Yes CO2 for MIG and Argon for TIG. CO2 is much cheaper but I haven't tried a CO2 Argon mix to see if it significantly improves my welds. I bought my tanks from a local welding supply and they will let me swap to a different gas if I need something different at no charge beyond the cost of gas.


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## DavidR8

Started the actual build tonight by cutting the shelves to width. 














I’m pretty happy with the welds 
17 volts
230 ipm wire speed. 
.024 wire. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Janderso

David, there may be some arguments but in my opinion those are pretty beads. I think the trick is to add some heat and go a bit faster with less filet.
I think you will get a stronger weld.
I work with a certified welder who turned auto technician. 
If I brought him that part he would say, more voltage less wire feed and speed up. It's real easy to burn through though. 
It's a dance.
Now, I may be full of poop but that's what I see.
You have to take any advise you get from me with a grain of salt.


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## DavidR8

Janderso said:


> David, there may be some arguments but in my opinion those are pretty beads. I think the trick is to add some heat and go a bit faster with less filet.
> I think you will get a stronger weld.
> I work with a certified welder who turned auto technician.
> If I brought him that part he would say, more voltage less wire feed and speed up. It's real easy to burn through though.
> It's a dance.
> Now, I may be full of poop but that's what I see.
> You have to take any advise you get from me with a grain of salt.



I think you’re bang on Jeff. 
I have cutoffs I can experiment with using higher voltage, less wire and faster travel speed. 
It is absolutely a dance. I’ve only just sorted out the issues I was having with burn through on 16 ga and that was all about too hot and too much wire. So I need to find the middle ground. 


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## Janderso

David,
Before I begin a welding project I always have to sharpen my skills by practicing on the material I am about to weld. That gets my heat, feed and speed in range.
Cheers mate.


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## C-Bag

Somehow I’ve not been getting updates on this for several pages. This is great it has turned into community weld carts! Along with sketch up tutorials by Chuck! This last week I had finally zeroed in on my junk art version of a welding cart. Mine is of course a totally different direction because of my engineering stock. Because I never weld on any other surface than cement and I wanted to use the cast iron wheels and castors I save off my old floorjack. Along with the side rails being made out of 4x4x3/8” angle I got a deal on. Way overbuilt, but that’s what I have. In order for the castors and wheels to be the same installed height I had to make stub axels out of some 1” shaft.


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## DavidR8

C-Bag said:


> Somehow I’ve not been getting updates on this for several pages. This is great it has turned into community weld carts! Along with sketch up tutorials by Chuck! This last week I had finally zeroed in on my junk art version of a welding cart. Mine is of course a totally different direction because of my engineering stock. Because I never weld on any other surface than cement and I wanted to use the cast iron wheels and castors I save off my old floorjack. Along with the side rails being made out of 4x4x3/8” angle I got a deal on. Way overbuilt, but that’s what I have. In order for the castors and wheels to be the same installed height I had to make stub axels out of some 1” shaft.


Nice work on the axles 
And excellent re-use of the table saw extensions. I keep my eyes open for those!


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## C-Bag

DavidR8 said:


> Nice work on the axles
> And excellent re-use of the table saw extensions. I keep my eyes open for those!


Thanks. Because of your thread on welding tables and Mikey’s link to that great review of welding tables and the NASA spec I checked this thing. Where it’s bolted together is where it didn’t meet spec at .008. But the rest of the table was around .002-.003! So I had some shim stock and was able to get it down to .003 across the bolt part so it’s now NASA spec. So I’m back looking for other wings to expand it with. I just welded the frame up yesterday and it came out totally flat. Score.


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## DavidR8

I'm not sure if @lis2323 posted them somewhere on H-M but he has some awesome jigs made from tablesaw extension wings.


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## C-Bag

i just missed a couple on CL the other day. They wanted $45 for the whole saw. Something that’s over looked is the cast iron table from the saw too. I’ve added tablesaws to my virtual vulture searches.

The idea of the hi end cast iron welding tables using milled sub rails to bolt the cast iron units to is something I’m going shoot for. This little table is super handy though. I don’t often need a big table, but to have the ability to expand the iron units with precision rails is very appealing.


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## lis2323

DavidR8 said:


> I'm not sure if @lis2323 posted them somewhere on H-M but he has some awesome jigs made from tablesaw extension wings.


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## Janderso

Who made the squares?


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## DavidR8

Janderso said:


> Who made the squares?


@lis2323 made them from table saw extension tables I believe.


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## Janderso

Nice work.
I would love to make some. I know you can buy them but they are up there$$$$
A guy could get close and surface grind them square.


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## DavidR8

Janderso said:


> Nice work.
> I would love to make some. I know you can buy them but they are up there$$$$
> A guy could get close and surface grind them square.


If only a fellow had a surface grinder


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## lis2323

DavidR8 said:


> @lis2323 made them from table saw extension tables I believe.


















Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## C-Bag

Wouldn’t those be really tough to do those angles on that big of a square on a surface grinder?

I forgot my brother who used to find all kinds of crazy stuff in the Stockton flea market, gave me the table saw attachment for a shop smith. It looks like it’s aluminum because of the paint, but it’s actually cast iron. When I think about it the stand with the HD rails might make a good base for a welding table. I see shopsmiths all the time for varying amounts on CL.


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## C-Bag

lis2323 said:


> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Those look exactly like the wings off my dead Grizzly table saw that is my precision welding table.


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## C-Bag

mickri said:


> First use the rectangle command to draw a 1" square.  Then there are two ways to get the wall thickness.  The long way is to set guide lines .06 in from each side and then draw in the lines.  The easy way is to use the offset command with .06 and it will draw all of the lines for you.  The last step is to highlight the center and delete it.  Now you have a 1x1x .06 wall tube cross section.
> 
> Have you downloaded sketchup make 2017? You should and then set up the toolbars like I have them in the screen shot I posted.  I tried a bunch of different arrangements for the toolbars before finally settling on the layout posted.  I found that layout to be the most convenient for me.
> 
> Another thing I did after using sketchup for awhile was to take each command and see what it did and how to use it.  I wish I had done this to start with.  I still reference my Sketchup for Dummies book whenever I haven't done something in awhile.  Or when things don't seem to go the way I expected them to.  And I can't overemphasis the need to break your drawing down into lots of groups.  Each component should be in its own group.  It makes life much easier.


Chuck help! I finally went to get Sketchup for Dummies and there are several but two that seem possible one was done in like 2017 by Aiden Chopra and the latest is by Bill Fane, Mark Harrison, Josh Reilly. This just came out and these guys seem very accomplished. Fane wrote AutoCad for dummies and Harrison worked for the parent co Trimble (?) and Josh teaches Sketchup. I guess it’s so new there no reviews even though Amazon lists it as their best seller.


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## mickri

Mine is Google Sketchup 8 for Dummies and was published in 2011.  It was written by Aidan Chopra.  Sketchup has seen revisions over the years.  I am currently using Sketchup 2017.  I think that this is the last version that you could download and use offline.  I think that the most recent versions are stored on the web.  I could be wrong about this.  I would look for the Sketchup for Dummies that matches your version of Sketchup.  I'll do a search and report back what I find.


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## mickri

Based on a quick search this is what I think is happening.  Aidan Chopra's last book is from 2017 which would correspond with the last downloadable free version of Sketchup.  I think the Fane, et al. book is related to the web based version of Sketchup.  I do not have either of these books so I can't compare them.

I am very leery of using web based software that starts out being free to use.  Adobe went to web based versions of their photoshop program.  Then in order to access the program you had to pay a monthly fee or an annual fee at a slight discount.  This is why I have not switched over to the web based version of Sketchup.  I don't want to get sucked into having to pay for it.

Either book is probably fine to use.  I would buy Chopra's 2017 book if you are using the 2017 version of Sketchup.  Fane's book if you are using the web based version of Sketchup.

The latest thing that I have been working on in Sketchup is headers for my 66 MG Midget project.


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## C-Bag

Yeah, ultimately there is no free lunch. They are like pushers giving it to you for free and once youre hooked you have to pay whatever they decide. It kills me I got a deal on Corel 17(which I learned on Corelv3) and got a deal on CorelCAD. Unfortunately it’s exactly like AutoCAD which is Greek to me. And I checked and there is no CorelCAD for dummies  Its already hard to find that free vs of SketchUp.


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## C-Bag

Here’s a couple of pics of the progress of the JunkArt WeldingCart. I just test piled on the top, plasma and mig. I also used that rust converter on the frame channel. The old stuff used to work good. I have to attach the top and install channel sides to support the top better and to provide framework for hanging the cables, clamps etc. The open backend is where the small CO2 bottle and my small OA bottles will go.


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## mickri

The actual name is Sketchup Make 2017.  Here is a link to download it.  https://download.cnet.com/SketchUp-Make-2017/3000-6677_4-10257337.html


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## DavidR8

Put the shelves on the upright tonight. 
Lots of grinding to get rid of brackets and things that were part of the donor warehouse cart. 
Also made the base. 
TIG goes on top, MIG on the bottom. 






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## C-Bag

mickri said:


> The actual name is Sketchup Make 2017.  Here is a link to download it.  https://download.cnet.com/SketchUp-Make-2017/3000-6677_4-10257337.html


It says “free to try”, which says it quits in 3mo, right?


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## C-Bag

mickri said:


> Based on a quick search this is what I think is happening.  Aidan Chopra's last book is from 2017 which would correspond with the last downloadable free version of Sketchup.  I think the Fane, et al. book is related to the web based version of Sketchup.  I do not have either of these books so I can't compare them.
> 
> I am very leery of using web based software that starts out being free to use.  Adobe went to web based versions of their photoshop program.  Then in order to access the program you had to pay a monthly fee or an annual fee at a slight discount.  This is why I have not switched over to the web based version of Sketchup.  I don't want to get sucked into having to pay for it.
> 
> Either book is probably fine to use.  I would buy Chopra's 2017 book if you are using the 2017 version of Sketchup.  Fane's book if you are using the web based version of Sketchup.
> 
> The latest thing that I have been working on in Sketchup is headers for my 66 MG Midget project.
> 
> View attachment 339090
> View attachment 339091
> View attachment 339092


The headers blow my mind. I don’t claim to know anything except to repeat what I’ve heard. Are the tubng runs on all those the same length? Do you like get virtual tubes the same length and just bend them like in a vector program?


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## mickri

With Sketchup Make 2017 for the first month you get to use the full featured Pro version.  If you don't buy the Pro version the free version still works at no cost.   The Pro features are mostly related to creating a set of plans that you could take to a building dept to get permits and lets you customize the toolbars.

The primary design criteria for the headers was to be able to r&r the starter without having to remove the header.  The next criteria in order of importance was ease of construction with as few bends as possible.   After that I tried to optimize the diameter and length of the tubes for low end performance.  Diameter was easy to optimize.  Virtually impossible to get equal length tubes.  Space is really tight.  I made some mock ups with PVC.  Here is the only mock up I took a picture of.





The exhaust tubes have to snake around the steering shaft and then exit through a 3"x6" space between a frame rail and the inner fender well.  And height is limited by the hood. A friend on the MG forum tried to get equal length tubes and had to run two tubes over the top of the steering shaft and two tubes went under the steering shaft.  He was after top end performance from an engine putting out close to 200 hp.  From what I have heard the car is so fast with such quick handling that it is downright scary to drive.  When he was all done with everything welded up he discovered that he couldn't get the starter out without removing the header.  And to remove the header he has to take the steering shaft out.  I originally wanted a 4-2-1 header but there wasn't room to get two tubes out through the space.  Long story short I gave up on trying to have equal length tubes and will go with what fits in the limited space.  This is the design that I will try first.




The hardest part in drawing the header was creating a line for the shape of the tube.  Once that was done I used the follow me command to draw  the tube.  The collector was not hard to draw.  It is an oval on the top and a circle on the bottom.  A circle is not really a circle.  It is a 24 sided polygon.  The oval is a half circle on each end connected by two lines.  To complete the collector I drew a line from each endpoint on the half circles to the corresponding endpoint on the circle.  "Endpoint" is a term of art in Sketchup where a line ends.  You can see the connecting lines in the drawing.  Sometimes Sketchup smooths out the lines so you don' see them.  The tubes are an example of this.

Sorry to hijack your thread David with another Sketchup tutorial.


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## C-Bag

mickri said:


> With Sketchup Make 2017 for the first month you get to use the full featured Pro version.  If you don't buy the Pro version the free version still works at no cost.   The Pro features are mostly related to creating a set of plans that you could take to a building dept to get permits and lets you customize the toolbars.
> 
> The primary design criteria for the headers was to be able to r&r the starter without having to remove the header.  The next criteria in order of importance was ease of construction with as few bends as possible.   After that I tried to optimize the diameter and length of the tubes for low end performance.  Diameter was easy to optimize.  Virtually impossible to get equal length tubes.  Space is really tight.  I made some mock ups with PVC.  Here is the only mock up I took a picture of.
> 
> View attachment 339211
> View attachment 339212
> 
> 
> The exhaust tubes have to snake around the steering shaft and then exit through a 3"x6" space between a frame rail and the inner fender well.  And height is limited by the hood. A friend on the MG forum tried to get equal length tubes and had to run two tubes over the top of the steering shaft and two tubes went under the steering shaft.  He was after top end performance from an engine putting out close to 200 hp.  From what I have heard the car is so fast with such quick handling that it is downright scary to drive.  When he was all done with everything welded up he discovered that he couldn't get the starter out without removing the header.  And to remove the header he has to take the steering shaft out.  I originally wanted a 4-2-1 header but there wasn't room to get two tubes out through the space.  Long story short I gave up on trying to have equal length tubes and will go with what fits in the limited space.  This is the design that I will try first.
> 
> View attachment 339213
> 
> 
> The hardest part in drawing the header was creating a line for the shape of the tube.  Once that was done I used the follow me command to draw  the tube.  The collector was not hard to draw.  It is an oval on the top and a circle on the bottom.  A circle is not really a circle.  It is a 24 sided polygon.  The oval is a half circle on each end connected by two lines.  To complete the collector I drew a line from each endpoint on the half circles to the corresponding endpoint on the circle.  "Endpoint" is a term of art in Sketchup where a line ends.  You can see the connecting lines in the drawing.  Sometimes Sketchup smooths out the lines so you don' see them.  The tubes are an example of this.
> 
> Sorry to hijack your thread David with another Sketchup tutorial.


Hey, any way you can re engineer to fix stupid OEM errors more power too you. That was the worst part of twisting wrenches was the bad engineering, or the lack there of.


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## DavidR8

mickri said:


> Sorry to hijack your thread David with another Sketchup tutorial.


No worries! 
It was your guidance that got me past my mental hurdles and start using SketchUp. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## DavidR8

Major progress on the cart tonight. 
Put the frame on the base. 






Cut up the remaining parts of the original cart to make the supports and upper side guards/handles. 

Just need some racing slicks! 

This is the most involved project I’ve designed and welded. Very happy with how it’s turning out. 
Many thanks to @mickri for the Sketchup advice which helped me work out some design details. 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## DavidR8

Minor progress tonight. 
Dismantled more of the cart.  This takes a surprisingly long time when trying to preserve as much material as possible. 

Took some of the sheet metal and repurposed it for the tank base. 





Cut down some of the wire grate for the back of the shelves. 
Looks very much like a metal chair from this angle. 






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## C-Bag

DavidR8 said:


> Minor progress tonight.
> Dismantled more of the cart.  This takes a surprisingly long time when trying to preserve as much material as possible.
> 
> Took some of the sheet metal and repurposed it for the tank base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut down some of the wire grate for the back of the shelves.
> Looks very much like a metal chair from this angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Looks wonderful. Stainless is so clean looking. And having all the material to work with is as good as it gets. Meanwhile I’m coming from the opposite direction Is the wire grate for hanging stuff on?
I also made progress on mine yesterday with the side braces and now need to cut a new top and attach it and the braces together. As usual I’m dealing with freebie induced design challenges as the file cabinet was dropped when they tossed it out in the parking lot tweaking front of the frame. I’m getting to the challenge of hanging the tons of clamps in some way that is tidy and out of the way. I originally thought something like the wire grid on yours but on the sides of mine might be the way but I need for this thing to fit back in the cubbyhole the old HF hand cart used to fit in. So I can’t have stuff hanging out to far or it will snag on stuff. Gotta search the junk pile and see if any solutions present themselves.


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## DavidR8

C-Bag said:


> Looks wonderful. Stainless is so clean looking. And having all the material to work with is as good as it gets. Meanwhile I’m coming from the opposite direction Is the wire grate for hanging stuff on?
> I also made progress on mine yesterday with the side braces and now need to cut a new top and attach it and the braces together. As usual I’m dealing with freebie induced design challenges as the file cabinet was dropped when they tossed it out in the parking lot tweaking front of the frame. I’m getting to the challenge of hanging the tons of clamps in some way that is tidy and out of the way. I originally thought something like the wire grid on yours but on the sides of mine might be the way but I need for this thing to fit back in the cubbyhole the old HF hand cart used to fit in. So I can’t have stuff hanging out to far or it will snag on stuff. Gotta search the junk pile and see if any solutions present themselves.


Thanks!
I might be able to use it for hanging stuff but the TIG is tall for it's going to consume much of the vertical height.
The shelf is 16" wide on the inside and the machine is 12" wide so there's some space left over but not a lot. That said I might put some of the wire grate on the side spaces as it would make for handy attachment points for hooks etc.

As it stands now (pun intended) the top shelf is the same height as my table. When I add casters it will add another 4" or 5" so I'm thinking about taking a few inches off the bottom of the uprights.

Working with found/freebie materials is definitely challenging. It's too bad that your cabinet is tweaked. Can it be 'untweaked' with an equal and opposite force?


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## C-Bag

I finally got over what I have come to call my “project horizon” and could see my way to the end of the basic frame build. When I made the top frame of some old 1x2 channel I’d been hauling around for the last 15yrs, I realized I needed a new top. I found a top off a school table I’d bought and it was close to the right size. It also had a sheetmetal cubby underneath I thought would make a good tub for the tanks to sit in. I realized after cutting down the tub I’d let my yearning to use my sheetmetal tools cloud my thinking and lead me down a rabbit hole that wouldn’t be good over the long run. It really was only sheetmetal.

Why not just use the bottle cart they lived in and wouldn’t have a use for if they weren’t in it? Too simple. Cut off the wheels, handle and junk box and it fit right into welding cart frame. Made a extension for the third bottle (ox, acetylene, CO2) bottle and the rest of the frame came into mental view. I still need to go back and treat the rusted channel and clean up the welds. But after so much fiddling I couldn’t wait to slap it all together.


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## DavidR8

C-Bag said:


> I finally got over what I have come to call my “project horizon” and could see my way to the end of the basic frame build. When I made the top frame of some old 1x2 channel I’d been hauling around for the last 15yrs, I realized I needed a new top. I found a top off a school table I’d bought and it was close to the right size. It also had a sheetmetal cubby underneath I thought would make a good tub for the tanks to sit in. I realized after cutting down the tub I’d let my yearning to use my sheetmetal tools cloud my thinking and lead me down a rabbit hole that wouldn’t be good over the long run. It really was only sheetmetal.
> 
> Why not just use the bottle cart they lived in and wouldn’t have a use for if they weren’t in it? Too simple. Cut off the wheels, handle and junk box and it fit right into welding cart frame. Made a extension for the third bottle (ox, acetylene, CO2) bottle and the rest of the frame came into metal view. I still need to go back and treat the rusted channel and clean up the welds. But after so much fiddling I couldn’t wait to slap it all together.


Well done, I like the clamp storage @C-Bag
Are the machines held down in any way? I'd hate to see one tip off if it got seriously bumped.


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## C-Bag

Thanks. There is angle iron on the sides that sticks above the top 1” and the handle in the back. The only direction not having a bumper is over the front. I plan on putting an angle iron with a hole so I could put a strap to the back if I’m transporting. Still got details like hangers for the cords in the sides etc but it’s now functional. I was getting phobic it was taking too long.


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## DavidR8

Ah yes, i can see that now. 
Looks good. 
I’m about ready to add the front swivel casters and tank straps to mine. 
Pictures at 11 


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## lis2323

DavidR8 said:


> Ah yes, i can see that now.
> Looks good.
> I’m about ready to add the front swivel casters and tank straps to mine.
> Pictures at 11
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



What are you using for straps? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Want a couple of these^^^?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## DavidR8

lis2323 said:


> What are you using for straps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Want a couple of these^^^?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Most definitely!


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## lis2323

David R8 was asking me about the casters and levelling locks on my welding table. Here’s a few pics and the mod I did to allow levelling of the table. 























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## NC Rick

lis2323 said:


> David R8 was asking me about the casters and levelling locks on my welding table. Here’s a few pics and the mod I did to allow levelling of the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Those are really cool.  I missed the boat on those and used threaded "feet".


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## DavidR8

Tank straps on!
Thanks so much @lis2323!






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## DavidR8

All loaded up.
Still need build the drawer and add hangers and other bits. 


















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