# Replace bearings in KO Lee B860 spindle



## calvertmillwright (Dec 11, 2012)

Hi 
Has anyone ever dismantled this spindle to replace the bearings?
I figured i would inquire before tackling it on my own,
Any input is welcome.

Sean


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## Richard King (Dec 11, 2012)

Do you have a manual?  I found KO-Lee has several links for books online.  I found this one:
http://www.kolee.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=oRFGDvBsTnU=&tabid=138

It probably isn't the same, but if it is close..It's always better to have a print.  Be sure you use the proper tools.  If there are spanner holes, use a spanner wrench.  If you don't have one use dowel pins.  Lets say the end cap has to holes in it, insert a dowel pin in the hole and strike it with a flat punch.  I hate seeing where someone used a pin punch directly into the hole and wrecking the hole.  Don't use a Cresent wrench, use a box or tight end wrench.  Be sure to take pictures, mark the parts, I use a center punch, number stamps sometimes and a paint pencil.  

I just dismantles a Besly Double Disk Grinder spindle and I used this method to loosen the bearing retainer nuts.  They also had set screws with brass under them to lock them on the treads. I used my cell phone to take pictures, plus I had a print of the spindle.  Be sure you check to see how the bearings are stacked or facing.  Back to back or face to face.  Be sure to buy precision bearings class 5 or 7.  I hey are greased bearings, be sure to use a good grease to pack the new bearings 1/3 to 1/2 full. I use Mobil # 28 or 32 red aviation grease or Kluber Isoflex grease. 

There is lots of info on the net too.  Be sure to have a super clean area too.  After all that you probably have bronze bushings...lol  I know this spindle is hue compared to yours, but the principle is the same.  See the one shows the Allen wrench in the lock screw and the drill rod in the hole and I will strike the rod with a punch not to damage the pin hole.


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## Metalmann (Dec 11, 2012)

To add to what Richard said, you may want to sketch out the parts order, as you dismantle.

Just to be on the safe side. Especially if there are spacers.


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## calvertmillwright (Dec 11, 2012)

Richard King said:


> Do you have a manual? I found KO-Lee has several links for books online. I found this one:
> http://www.kolee.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=oRFGDvBsTnU=&tabid=138
> 
> It probably isn't the same, but if it is close..It's always better to have a print. Be sure you use the proper tools. If there are spanner holes, use a spanner wrench. If you don't have one use dowel pins. Lets say the end cap has to holes in it, insert a dowel pin in the hole and strike it with a flat punch. I hate seeing where someone used a pin punch directly into the hole and wrecking the hole. Don't use a Cresent wrench, use a box or tight end wrench. Be sure to take pictures, mark the parts, I use a center punch, number stamps sometimes and a paint pencil.
> ...



The reason i asked is i see no hints on how to dismantle this. I assume pressing it off, not sure. there isnt a manual on leblonde / ko lee site. i will keep searching, will try to post pictures.
thanks


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## Richard King (Dec 11, 2012)

Like I said I don't have the correct book, but if your machine spindle looks like the 2 spindles in the KO-Lee drawing you will need to remove parts #'s 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 11 and then unscrew the rear or left on drawing # 7 & 10 and press the spindle out the front.  If you look at # 12 and 14 there is a retaining ring and that would make it impossible to out the rear.  Be sure to replace the nuts on the treads on the end of spindle if you tap on it, this will avoid messing up the threads. 
http://www.kolee.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=oRFGDvBsTnU=&tabid=138

If your looking for a step by step process maybe some of the other readers can help or contact KO-Lee.  KO-Lee had an auction last year so I'm not to sure they are still in business.   They might have a parts and service dept. left?  I am trying to guide you and others in a general way, as I have probably rebuilt several hundred of all types of machine spindles  and possibly 4 times had a step by step procedure to follow

Another Idea would be to go to "SurplusRecord.com and put in the machinery wanted section your looking for a parts manual for your model machine, be sure to add your serial number.  Many machine dealers have file cabinets of machine parts manuals.


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## calvertmillwright (Dec 12, 2012)

Thanks Richard,


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## calvertmillwright (Dec 12, 2012)

ok,i got it all disassembled, any ideas on where to get the bearings other than from ko lee, i found a set at applied, orginals were obsolete, but cross ref. to a 2mm from mm precision(higher precision) 410.00 for a set. is this good or bad ?


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## Richard King (Dec 12, 2012)

calvertmillwright said:


> ok,i got it all disassembled, any ideas on where to get the bearings other than from ko lee, i found a set at applied, orginals were obsolete, but cross ref. to a 2mm from mm precision(higher precision) 410.00 for a set. is this good or bad ?



I have had good luck with Bearings Inc.  in Chicago,  http://www.bearingsinc.net/
  and Micro Miniature bearing   http://www.mmbbearings.com/  who have always been fair on the prices.  

Bearins Inc. told me that most of the old class 5 bearings are hard to find as the grinding machines are more precise, so they make and sell class 7.  You would never use a auto class 3 in a precision spindle.   But remember angular contact bearings class numbering system is opposite of Tapered roller bearings like a Timken. 

Here is a great manual that explains things.   http://www.nachi.de/1/files/b3003e_basic_6.pdf

When your working with spindles you should be sure to stone all surfaces with a med grit stone so you don't have burrs, I would check the maximum run out of the spindle by laying it in a V block and spinning it to measure the for max TIR of the bearing surfaces.  On a Precision bearing there will be  small dot that looks like a * .  This is the maximum run out of the bearing.  You need to install the bearing opposite side of the spindle TIR, so they off-set each other.   

As I said before I would use a special bearing grease and not the everyday ball joint grease from an auto store.  Remember not to fill up the bearing more then 1/3 to 1/2 full.   I also have a bearing heater to heat up the inner race so it expands and falls on.   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxA2DXtZj_Y

A friend of mine did not have one, but he would put the bearing in a oven and heat to 165 degrees.  I have never done this, but have pressed on the new bearings very carefully. Or turn down a tube to use to push it on,  Make it a little bigger diameter of the shaft and tap it on with a soft blow hammer.  I am not a big fan of using a punch, but if that's all you have, use a piece of cold roll steel and not brass or a pin punch.  Cold roll will smash over a little, but not break off as brass will or a hard steel pin punch.  Keep everything super clean too.  Have fun


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## calvertmillwright (Dec 12, 2012)

alot of good info, in the past i have heated bearings in oil and placed the shaft in freezer, has worked well for me, i found some bearings on e bay, checking the cross reference , they are super presision bearings, i will also check your links, again thanks alot.
Sean


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