# Sieg X2D Mill Problem  -  Stalls



## jjtgrinder (Apr 7, 2020)

I bought a X2D mill from Little Machine Shop.  I have used it for several projects.  Started to side mill an aluminum bracket and everything was going well until the machine just stopped.  It ran for about 10 minutes before the stall.  I was only milling a profile thickness of 1/8”.  No yellow light or other indication of a problem. If I turned the mill off and back on, it would run for a few seconds them stalls again.  turn it off for and hour or two, it will run fine then stall again with no load.  
Anyone seen this problem?  LMS is closed due COVID 19 virus.


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## DAT510 (Apr 7, 2020)

Sorry, I haven't experienced your problem with my SX3.  But this guy fixes the control, boards if that ends up being the issue.









						MINI LATHE - MILL BOARD REPAIR SERVICE
					

Check out this GoDaddy hosted webpage! http://olduhfguy.com.




					olduhfguy.com


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## higgite (Apr 7, 2020)

When you say it stalls, do you mean the spindle stops turning while the mill is still "on" or do you mean it turns itself off while the spindle is turning? With it turned off, can you turn the spindle easily by hand before and after it stalls/quits/heads south?

Tom


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## jjtgrinder (Apr 7, 2020)

higgite said:


> When you say it stalls, do you mean the spindle stops turning while the mill is still "on" or do you mean it turns itself off while the spindle is turning? With it turned off, can you turn the spindle easily by hand before and after it stalls/quits/heads south?
> 
> Tom


Yes, the spindle stops turning yet the green light is still on, power Switch is still on. The yellow light is off.
Yes, with main power switch off, spindle turns easily.
After the ”stall” and with the power still on (green light on), if you turn the speed knob to off then wait a minute or two and turn the speed control on to a given speed, the mill will run about 15 seconds then stall again.


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## jjtgrinder (Apr 7, 2020)

DAT510 said:


> Sorry, I haven't experienced your problem with my SX3.  But this guy fixes the control, boards if that ends up being the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you!!!


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## higgite (Apr 7, 2020)

I found this service bulletin on LMS’ website. https://littlemachineshop.com/images/gallery/sb/SB1013 Adjusting XMT Boards 4959 4962.pdf

It may or may not be applicable to your problem, but two symptoms that it mentions are lack of torque and tripping off under light load. It may be worth checking out.

Tom


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## homebrewed (Apr 8, 2020)

Before you start adjusting potentiometers, disconnect and reconnect all the connectors inside and outside the motor controller.  With the power disconnected, of course.  And if the controller board has any parts in sockets, pry them up a bit and re-seat them.  Connection problems often are the issue when it comes to intermittent problems in electronics.  You also may want to think about spraying some contact cleaner into the speed-setting rheostat, if you've got any.  While you're in there look for any signs of cold solder joints and burnt/over-heated electronic components or potentially broken wires (they can remain in contact until heated some).  A burnt smell is a good indicator of a problem.


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## jjtgrinder (Apr 8, 2020)

higgite said:


> I found this service bulletin on LMS’ website. https://littlemachineshop.com/images/gallery/sb/SB1013 Adjusting XMT Boards 4959 4962.pdf
> 
> It may or may not be applicable to your problem, but two symptoms that it mentions are lack of torque and tripping off under light load. It may be worth checking out.
> 
> Tom


Thank you!


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## jjtgrinder (Apr 8, 2020)

homebrewed said:


> Before you start adjusting potentiometers, disconnect and reconnect all the connectors inside and outside the motor controller.  With the power disconnected, of course.  And if the controller board has any parts in sockets, pry them up a bit and re-seat them.  Connection problems often are the issue when it comes to intermittent problems in electronics.  You also may want to think about spraying some contact cleaner into the speed-setting rheostat, if you've got any.  While you're in there look for any signs of cold solder joints and burnt/over-heated electronic components or potentially broken wires (they can remain in contact until heated some).  A burnt smell is a good indicator of a problem.


Many excellent suggestions here.  The problem seems to be a cold solder connection or something like that.  The reason I say that, it does run for a while then “stalls”.  It seems like a small “cooling“ period allows it to run a short while.
I am in the process of installing a glass scale DRO system. When this started it was disappointing to say the least.
Thank all of you for the many good suggestions and help.


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## jjtgrinder (Apr 8, 2020)

I followed the Troubleshooting guide from OLDUHFGUY.com and double checked all Circuit board connections. I found that the neutral and hot wire coming in were reversed at the connections (in the rear Circuit board box) to the contactor switch. Corrected that and it seems to be working properly now.

Thank ALL of you for the many excellent suggestions to this problem.

I will start a new thread to show the DRO install.  where should I start the thread?


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