# What Did You Buy Today?



## darkzero

Don't remember if there is an existing thread like this. Many of you guys like to share your scores so let's try a new ongoing thread...

If your here chances are you love tools & always love to get new ones. This thread is not necessarily for gloating (well maybe) but you can if you want but expect to get a "you suck" compliment!

So what did you buy for the shop today (or recently)? No tool too small or too big, machines, equipment, inexpensive, expensive, good deal or not, whatever. All that matters is if you'd like to share your latest acquisition that put a smile on your face, post 'em up! And you know the drill, we love to see photos!


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## ddickey

I bought a planer gauge today. I want to make some dovetails in the future, figure it will come in handy.


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## Dan_S

I ordered one of these yesterday to help with recording videos in the shop.

http://www.saramonicusa.com/products/sr-pax2


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## darkzero

Dan_S said:


> I ordered one of these yesterday to help with recording videos in the shop.
> 
> http://www.saramonicusa.com/products/sr-pax2



Oh, so that is you on YT! I've came across some of your videos.


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## Dan_S

darkzero said:


> Oh, so that is you on YT! I've came across some of your videos.



Yea, that's probably me. making the videos keeps me motivated and learning new stuff.


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## darkzero

Dan_S said:


> Yea, that's probably me. making the videos keeps me motivated and learning new stuff.



Keep it up! Watching machining videos keeps me motivated but also causes me to buy more tools! I don't even watch broadcast TV anymore. I just watch YT TV on my Fire TV.


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## darkzero

Got great deals on a couple of the new M style Skoda live centers MT2 & MT3.


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## mikey

Bought a pair (0-1" and 1-2")of Tesa screw thread micrometers in mint condition on ebay, complete with full set of anvils and a standard. I had been using a Fowler set (Chinese) that was on a semi-permanent loan but that went back last week. I absolutely hate thread wires; I always drop them in the chip pan or on the floor ... always! I've been looking for this set for years now and it finally turned up at a price that was a comparative steal. Just the checking standard, if bought at retail, would have just about covered the cost of this entire set.


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## BFHammer

This is a little bit of a duplicate post because it originated out of another thread where I got some great advice.  

I'm in the process of tooling up for my first mill and I just ordered a 5" Glacern vise with swivel base and their keyless chuck:


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## jocat54

I ordered some adjustable parallels from LMS---may never use them


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## JR49

jocat54 said:


> I ordered some adjustable parallels from LMS---may never use them



Thats what i thought when i got my first set, but I now have 3.  My biggest problem was remembering I had that first set.  They are very useful in all kinds of setups.  Once you start using them in lots of odd setups, it will become second nature to think of them, even first sometimes.   Happy machining,     JR49


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## alloy

Hmmmm..............how recently?  And is there a limit to how many I post???

You know your giving me a really great excuse  to go out and buy something cool just to post it on here.


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## Dan_S

alloy said:


> Hmmmm..............how recently?  And how many can I post???
> 
> You know your giving me a really great excuse  to go out and buy something cool just to post it on here.



Don't join a photography forum, most of them have threads like this and the tools are more expensive.


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## Badspellar

This morning I bought a $20 membership to this forum.  One of the best cheap "tools" I know.


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## BFHammer

Considering that I'm in the process of tooling up - I may be a frequent offender in this thread!

Like Badspellar I just upgraded to the premium membership.  An awesome bargain considering what I have learned so far!


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## David S

Badspellar said:


> This morning I bought a $20 membership to this forum.  One of the best cheap "tools" I know.



Can I modify that slightly.  "One of the best expensive "tools" at the lowest cost."

David


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## darkzero

alloy said:


> Hmmmm..............how recently?  And is there a limit to how many I post???
> 
> You know your giving me a really great excuse  to go out and buy something cool just to post it on here.



By all means, please post away! We don't care how long ago or how many times! We all enjoy seeing new tools, well I do anyway & I can't be the only one. Seeing the stuff that may be posted here may cause me to go buy something else!


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## Charles Spencer

I didn't buy it today, but I received it today.

JTS Machinery had a sale on R8 collets and they said that everything was 10% off on Tuesday.  So I ordered the 32nd collets I needed to fill out my set.  I also ordered a rack that holds 48 R8 collets.

I know they're imports, but I got to fill out my set for $4.20 per collet.


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## darkzero

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


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## alloy

darkzero said:


> By all means, please post away! We don't care how long ago or how many times! We all enjoy seeing new tools, well I do anyway & I can't be the only one. Seeing the stuff that may be posted here may cause me to go buy something else!



Well most of my stuff has been posted before, but I'm always on the lookout for more


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## pstemari

Ordered a carbide internal thread relief tool and a gallon of Mobil 426 cutting oil from Zoro and a bunch of the g&l pocket tools from Techni-Tool.

Also picked up a bunch of 12L14, 7075, 6061, C360, and Delrin from Online Metals.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


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## sanddan

Bought an Albrecht chuck off ebay.


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## sanddan

BFHammer said:


> This is a little bit of a duplicate post because it originated out of another thread where I got some great advice.
> 
> I'm in the process of tooling up for my first mill and I just ordered a 5" Glacern vise with swivel base and their keyless chuck:
> 
> View attachment 225953
> View attachment 225954



Great vise, I had one on my bench top mill and loved it. Perfect size. A great addition to that new vise is a speed handle.

I found that they didn't make a speed handle for this size mill but an even better solution if you have a welder is to cut a wrench in half and weld a ball on the end.  I used ball bearings purchased off ebay but a cheaper solution is a hollow ball used to cap posts on metal fencing.


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## BFHammer

sanddan said:


> Great vise, I had one on my bench top mill and loved it. Perfect size. A great addition to that new vise is a speed handle.
> 
> I found that they didn't make a speed handle for this size mill but an even better solution if you have a welder is to cut a wrench in half and weld a ball on the end.  I used ball bearings purchased off ebay but a cheaper solution is a hollow ball used to cap posts on metal fencing.
> 
> View attachment 226035


Great idea - I do weld and I like the homemade tools - often a better solution.

What kind of mill do you have?


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## sanddan

It's a Jet JTM-4VS, basically a Bridgeport type knee mill.


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## Monk

I recently got a vintage L. S. Starrett No. 196 Dial Test Indicator off ebay for $25. It works great.  I bought it with the idea of making a head tramming tool for the BP, which I did. I'll post the the pics etc under the Projects forum when I get them arranged.


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## mikey

Just got a brand new Etalon 6" dial caliper and depth base off ebay. Only saved about $70.00 over retail but it is worth the cost. I checked them on my gage blocks and they are dead on accurate as far as my eyes can tell. Unlike my Starrett and Mitutoyo calipers, the Etalon is accurate even at very small dimensions. I'm very impressed by the feel and workmanship as well so I'm pleased.

Okay, no more tools for me. Well, at least for the next 6 months or so. Well, I guess it depends on the tool ...


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## Firestopper

Earlier in the week, I was the high bidder in a Rockwell 31-730 disc/belt sander that came out of a local H.S. wood shop. Its all there including the saw dust haha.
It has a 230V 1.5 HP single phase motor located in the base housing. The disc is 12" and the belt is a 6" x  48". It has minor damage on the outer lower portion of the belt guard from being ran while not tracking properly. The edge of the belt was rubbing (outboard side) resulting in a deep grove. Its 16ga so an easy fix. I plan on rebuilding the entire machine and painting it darker grey with yellow guards. Its a vintage machine with metal adjustment knobs unlike the newer version with plastic knobs.





Here you can see the "Flowing Wells school property tag"



The cast iron tables are in great shape







I was able to download a manual found online. I do have a question for you guys,
would there be any benefit in converting this machine to variable speed control (VFD) for general metal fabrication? I know some of the Burr Kings come set up with variable speed option.

Thank for the reply in advance.
Paco


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## RandyM

Here is my recent acquisition, I was in a real need for some radius gages and some roughing end mills.


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## Ken from ontario

I got myself a toolmaker's vise:


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## Hukshawn

RandyM said:


> Here is my recent acquisition, I was in a real need for some radius gages and some roughing end mills.
> 
> View attachment 226200



What are you using a radius gauge for? Another one of those items I can't think of a purpose for.


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## darkzero

Hukshawn said:


> What are you using a radius gauge for? Another one of those items I can't think of a purpose for.



Radius gauges are very useful. It's one of those things that I personally don't use that often but when I need to I'm glad I have them. They're for, well measuring radii of course. Not a real necessity unless you are making parts where you need to make the radii exact or copying a part & you need to know a radius size. Other ways around it, you could just use a piece of round but the guages are nice & easy to handle.

I didn't get me a set until I got me a set of corner rounding end mills & some radius turning tools. But even though a set of radius gauges aren't needed just having these cutters IMO.

A set like Randy's is pretty expensive. I have a full set by Mitutoyo. I waited patiently to find a nice set on ebay.


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## Dan_S

darkzero said:


> A set like Randy's is pretty expensive. I have a full set by Mitutoyo. I waited patiently to find a nice set on ebay.



They are really useful though when you need to figure out what a radius is. Thankfully they are stainless, so unless you really abuse them, they will outlast your grand children.


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## hman

Hukshawn said:


> What are you using a radius gauge for? Another one of those items I can't think of a purpose for.


I can't count the number of times I've had to make an "educated guesstimate" about the internal or external radius of something I was trying to work with, and/or do an accurate job of 3D CAD modeling.  Sometimes it isn't critical.  Other times it is - such as when something else has to either clear the original part or to fit it closely.  Radius gauges would definitely have helped numerous times.  I do plan to get a set soon.


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## mikey

Radius gages are also useful for marking out rounded corners on wood or metal projects; draw the corner and grind to shape. I have a Mitutoyo set and have yet to use them for their intended purpose - cut a corner radius to specs, mostly because I only work for myself.


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## Nogoingback

Not a tool, but I found a 1959 edition of the Boston Gear catalog in a used book store for  5 bucks.


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## wawoodman

darkzero said:


> Got me a set of ER-40 collet blocks with bearing nuts. I do have a super spacer but sometime I don't feel like setting it up just for something quick. I use ER-40 collets in the mill & for work holding in the lathe. I don't own any 5C collets so these made more sense for me to get. I was shocked, they arrived in 1 business day all the way from Europe!



I really like those holders. But I'm in a bit of a quandry. I have a number of TG-100 collets. (A member of one of the forums, whose name I am ashamed I don't recall, made me an adapter to fit on my SB Lathe.) And I have R8 collets to fit in the mill. Do I really want to get involved with 5C (or ER-40) collets, as well? I've only seen the blocks for 5C and ER-40s. And I know I'm not good enough to make them, myself.


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## BFHammer

darkzero said:


> Got me a set of ER-40 collet blocks with bearing nuts. I do have a super spacer but sometime I don't feel like setting it up just for something quick. I use ER-40 collets in the mill & for work holding in the lathe. I don't own any 5C collets so these made more sense for me to get. I was shocked, they arrived in 1 business day all the way from Europe!




Very snazzy.  I saw these the other night and thought - cool I wonder what all you could do with those?  Later that night I was watching a youtube video (ThisOldTony) of making a drawbar from round stock and using a hex block collet in the mill to make the head of the bolt!


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## Hukshawn

What did that arbor press set you back? I wouldnt mind finding one.


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## Nogoingback

100 bucks.  I've been watching CL for a couple of months and this was the best one for the money I could find.


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## Nogoingback

darkzero said:


> Got/made me a new tool post wrench today. Got a couple of Kent Moore brake wrenches on ebay. They're about 20" long. I shortened the worst looking one which looked much worse than the other one pictured. Stripped it down to bare metal & blackened it with a new solution I just got. I must say I'm pretty happy with it. This stuff gave me the best results I've tried so far with other blackening solutions.
> 
> I got tired of using my Armstrong Engineer's wrench. I did not want to make a handle that replaces the nut like some do. This "new" wrench is so much better to use, matches the angle of the TP handle perfectly. I'm glad I came across these wrenches just randomly.




That wrench looks great.  Do you mind telling us what solution you used to blacken it?


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## darkzero

ACHiPo said:


> Those are beautiful (well, at least very nice looking ;-) )  Did you get them new or used?



I got them new 1 at a time waiting patiently for sales.



Nogoingback said:


> That wrench looks great.  Do you mind telling us what solution you used to blacken it?



I used Caswell's "Black Oxide" solution with penetrating sealer. The sealer makes a big difference!


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## Nogoingback

darkzero said:


> I used Caswell's "Black Oxide" solution with penetrating sealer. The sealer makes a big difference!



Thanks Will, I'll keep that info for when I need some.


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## francist

It appears I felt that I needed this indicator only slightly more than I needed another hole in the head, because it came in the mail today. According to the sticker it was made in 2002, but it's still in really super shape. The box is pretty mint, too.

I know lots of folks don't care too much for Federals, but for some reason I have a bit of a soft spot for them. Anyway, too late now!  Thanks for looking.

-frank


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## T Bredehoft

I had three Federals I used through my working life. I also had Last Words and a really high end Mitotoyu, but the Federals were the work horses.


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## BFHammer

I've learned a lot hanging out here.  I've also had a feeling that hanging out here was going to cost me some money - and today it did! 

Placed my order today for a PM-932M-PDF mill and a PM-1236 lathe.  

They tell me that timeline on the mill is 6-8 weeks and I'm going to have the lathe shipped at the same time because it saves a chunk on shipping.  It also gives me time to finish getting tooled up and rearrange the shop.


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## ACHiPo

Nice!


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## Silverbullet

Does a trade count as a buy?  I found a craigslist sale on three phase 2HP motors. One a GE with 1140 rpms , just what I need for the federal planer. The cost a trade for a Honda generator I saved from the scrap pile , I put used cam and lifters in the head , the old one was worn out . As soon as it started the deal was made. The motor is the real heavy cast iron model new in the box. Wow for some reason the last couple weeks things have been going great . Now if the doctors can fix my spine pain ill be working on the shop and the new used  machines there waiting.


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## MrDan

Well, I used to wonder at some of the, ahem, amazing finds I sometimes hear about (10EE Monarch for $20, that sort of thing). Some of them are a little hard to believe. Today I became a believer.

I was looking for something completely unrelated on CL and just happened to find a posting for a Baldor grinder. I have never owned one, but have seen pictures.... Anyway, the picture of the machine was taken with nothing else in the frame to compare it with, to get a sense of scale. There was a pretty blurry close-up of the nameplate. The model number meant nothing to me. I noticed that it was 3-phase, which I don't have. The nameplate was kind of beat up, but I could see it would run on 208-230. The HP was a 3 and then the rest was pretty scratched up. Hmm... 3-something..... Has to be 3/4 HP, right? What else would start with a 3? The light went on in my head - I have a VFD at home that's good to 1 HP, and it will run with 120V input! Perfect! And he only wanted a hundred bucks! I'm all over this one. Called and set up a time to come and see it.

When I got there it was a machine shop! The owner was a great guy, very pleasant. He explained that they did mostly job-shop work for the aerospace industry. They had plans to start doing big fab jobs and had bought the Baldor for that. When the economy crashed in '09 those plans went out the window. It sat around for years and they never even turned it on other than to make sure it worked when they first got it. He had decided it was time to clean house.

When we went out to the yard in back it was immediately obvious to me that I had misread the photos. There wasn't anything after the 3, just scratches. It was a *3HP *grinder, model 1216W, *not* 3/4HP.

I looked at the grinder, then looked at my little company car, a Chevy Captiva. How in the heck am I going to get this home? No problem, the guy grabbed some tools and disassembled it, and between the 3 of us managed to get it stuffed in.

One problem - I'm gonna need a bigger VFD....


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## Hukshawn

That thing is going to rattle your house when it starts up!


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## MrDan

Yeah, it's way bigger than I really need, but c'mon, a hundred bucks!


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## wawoodman

Well, I think that deserves a big 



Great score!


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## MrDan

Lol...


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## darkzero

Yup, Mr Dan, you officially got the first You Suck for this thread. Awesome score, congrats!


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## JohnnyTK

Ken from ontario said:


> I got myself a toolmaker's vise:
> View attachment 226208


Ken from wich vendor did you purchase?


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## Ken from ontario

JohnnyTK said:


> Ken from which vendor did you purchase?


John, I had ordered it from Amazon Canada but had to return it because the V block was missing from the package, the price was fantastic($117)  but the V block was the reason I had chosen that deal.
You best bet is this 3" toolmaker's vise from the Amazon vendor called "Cuttingtoolpickers" for $121. I have dealt with him before and his service was great but most of all, he ships fast:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-list...=new&coliid=I2YCC5F12H235E&colid=U1FASJ1VAXTT


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## BFHammer

MrDan - great find!  You did the right thing - it's irrelevant whether you need it or not!  

Now - use it like you stole it - because you did!!!


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## MonkMan

Found a nice solid stand for the bench grinder. (got it off my work bench). heavy gage and powder coated.
put it together this afternoon.


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## rrjohnso2000

Yesterday's catch. A 0.0005 federal indicator in very good condition. And what google seems to tell is a pulse act welder?


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## hman

Spot welder????


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## woodchucker

Went to a garage sale before work today, and picked up this Lufkin bore gauge and 2 break off razors for $5. While I didn't need a bore gauge, as I already have Starrett snap gauges, I figured if the price were right it would be a good find.  After cleaning them up I think I did good.


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## darkzero

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


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## woodchucker

darkzero said:


> Finally got me my very own Interapid. 312-B3 .0001" new off ebay. This one will stay in the box & kept in a drawer though & only used when needed. I'll keep using my beater .0005" Mitutoyo DTI for regular needs.



That's not why you bought it is it?  Use it, take care of it.  Don't let it sit there, you bought it to be used.  Your beater will get use too.


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## darkzero

woochucker said:


> That's not why you bought it is it?  Use it, take care of it.  Don't let it sit there, you bought it to be used.  Your beater will get use too.



Yes of course I will use it as I stated... like all my tools. But I don't have a need for .0001" resolution regulary. I haven't owned a tenths indicator until now. Maybe I will use it more now that I have one.

My "beater" Mitu DTI is not really a beater, but I don't keep it stored in it's original box like some of my nicer mics. My Interapid will be stored in my mill's cabinet along with my other DTIs, I just meant that I care about it more to keep in it's case. These suckers are not cheap!


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## woodchucker

I have a federal .0001 (I forgot, also a besttest ) and I can tell you, I use it more than you would think, more than I thought I would. 
When I make tooling, I don't think  1 thou is close enough, since it's a tool, I want that to be as accurate as possible so I am  not multiplying errors.
If I ever re-chuck something critical, I'll do .001 then put on the federal and get it as close as I am willing to go.

Enjoy your new tool.


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## Firestopper

MrDan said:


> Well, I used to wonder at some of the, ahem, amazing finds I sometimes hear about (10EE Monarch for $20, that sort of thing). Some of them are a little hard to believe. Today I became a believer.
> 
> I was looking for something completely unrelated on CL and just happened to find a posting for a Baldor grinder. I have never owned one, but have seen pictures.... Anyway, the picture of the machine was taken with nothing else in the frame to compare it with, to get a sense of scale. There was a pretty blurry close-up of the nameplate. The model number meant nothing to me. I noticed that it was 3-phase, which I don't have. The nameplate was kind of beat up, but I could see it would run on 208-230. The HP was a 3 and then the rest was pretty scratched up. Hmm... 3-something..... Has to be 3/4 HP, right? What else would start with a 3? The light went on in my head - I have a VFD at home that's good to 1 HP, and it will run with 120V input! Perfect! And he only wanted a hundred bucks! I'm all over this one. Called and set up a time to come and see it.
> 
> When I got there it was a machine shop! The owner was a great guy, very pleasant. He explained that they did mostly job-shop work for the aerospace industry. They had plans to start doing big fab jobs and had bought the Baldor for that. When the economy crashed in '09 those plans went out the window. It sat around for years and they never even turned it on other than to make sure it worked when they first got it. He had decided it was time to clean house.
> 
> When we went out to the yard in back it was immediately obvious to me that I had misread the photos. There wasn't anything after the 3, just scratches. It was a *3HP *grinder, model 1216W, *not* 3/4HP.
> 
> I looked at the grinder, then looked at my little company car, a Chevy Captiva. How in the heck am I going to get this home? No problem, the guy grabbed some tools and disassembled it, and between the 3 of us managed to get it stuffed in.
> 
> One problem - I'm gonna need a bigger VFD....
> 
> View attachment 226984
> 
> 
> View attachment 226983



That beast is gonna dim the neighborhood lights at start up hahaha
Nice grinder!


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## Silverbullet

What I bought today how about the last several days. I've been hunting for all the materials to build a RPC , Fuse block , fuses, magnetic contactor , on off button switches, start and run capacitors. Still need a wiring terminal block and a 5 hp three phase motor. But I picked up a manual start contactor to run the federal planer and a separate fuse box with switch . All these things get forgotten on ALOT of machinery installations. It's amazing how much the things cost even buying used on eBay if you figure the shipping cost. The 2 hp motor $22 .00 to buy it shipping $36.00 . It's hard on fixed income. If I hadn't sold some tools I couldn't even have started gathering these supplies. So no fancy pretty tools but these count to me..
Doctors going to do the epidural shot or shots on Tuesday , I'm really hoping. And praying they work and last for a long time . This being stuck in bed in pain has gone past being miserable .


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## LucknowKen

Silverbullet said:


> Doctors going to do the epidural shot or shots on Tuesday , I'm really hoping. And praying they work and last for a long time . This being stuck in bed in pain has gone past being miserable .


Good luck and God bless.
lk


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## Ken from ontario

I finally found a used  Criterion boring head (ebay) and a new boring bar (also US made) for from Mesa Tools. was seriously tempted to go for a new Chinese boring head but saw a couple of bad reviews on youtube and decided to go for something I know I couldn't go wrong with :


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## hman

Silverbullet said:


> Doctors going to do the epidural shot or shots on Tuesday , I'm really hoping. And praying they work and last for a long time . This being stuck in bed in pain has gone past being miserable .


Best wishes for a complete (and long lasting) recovery.  We're all hoping to hear about more of your adventures in the shop.
- John Herrmann


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## Ken from ontario

Silverbullet said:


> Doctors going to do the epidural shot or shots on Tuesday , I'm really hoping. And praying they work and last for a long time . This being stuck in bed in pain has gone past being miserable .


So callous of me for not realizing there's a member here in pain and right under your post I'm posting pics of what I bought today ,my apologies for not seeing or reading your post. I hope the Epidural shot will do it's job and relieve your pain . Wishing you a speedy recovery .
Ken.


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## pstemari

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


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## darkzero

pstemari said:


> You still need the 91D, assuming you have pipe taps.
> 
> View attachment 227293
> 
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk



No large taps or large pipe taps for me. But who knows what may happen in the future. I may just get one some day for the heck of it. I have been thinking about getti g the little  Starrett 174 though.


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## pstemari

I have the 174, but it's not as nice as the 91 series. It doesn't have the v-jaw that stays aligned.

I think that's a 1/2" pipe tap—it's just a bit too big to fit in the 91C. Unfortunately the 1" tap I used for my lathe setting tool was too big for this wrench.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## darkzero

I noticed that about the 174, no V jaw. As long as it has the spring loaded mandrel like the 91 series I'll be happy, that's the main reason I went with the 91 series cause they don't come loose under use. I have a Snap On branded tap wrench & I hated using it cause it always loosens up when using it.

Well Amazon has the 174 for $30 & I had $28 credit along with some reward points so I went ahead and ordered it.


----------



## chips&more

I always wondered if the medical oxygen generator would work for my small torch. I was always out of the little oxygen tanks when I needed the torch for an important job! Today I found a generator for 10 bucks at the flea market. Took it home set it up and it works like a champ with oxygen to spare!


----------



## Charles Spencer

I was going into town so I stopped at Dollar Tree and bought some doggie poop bags.

While there I saw some plastic tool boxes that measure 12" x 4 1/2" x 4".  I bought a couple thinking I could use them to store boring heads or some such things:




As I look at it I'm thinking that I should buy some more and build a double shelf to hold them.


And I bought this because St. Paddy's Day is coming soon:


----------



## darkzero

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


----------



## JimDawson

Ohhhh, a hammer wrench, I love it.


----------



## Hukshawn

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


----------



## Moshe

I picked this 2 1/2" Winton Bullet vise with table clamping swivel base for $50 from a retired Boeing machinist.  It has bronze jaws.  I'm planning on make sets in aluminum and steel.  I researched Wilton Bullet vises and see no mention of this size or this type of base.  The date on the key is June 1970.


----------



## Firestopper

Thats a beauty.


----------



## sanddan

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


----------



## sanddan

Moshe said:


> I picked this 2 1/2" Winton Bullet vise with table clamping swivel base for $50 from a retired Boeing machinist.  It has bronze jaws.  I'm planning on make sets in aluminum and steel.  I researched Wilton Bullet vises and see no mention of this size or this type of base.  The date on the key is June 1970.
> View attachment 227609
> View attachment 227610



Copper also makes great soft jaws. I got this stock from Online Metals.


----------



## woodchucker

Moshe said:


> I picked this 2 1/2" Winton Bullet vise with table clamping swivel base for $50 from a retired Boeing machinist.  It has bronze jaws.  I'm planning on make sets in aluminum and steel.  I researched Wilton Bullet vises and see no mention of this size or this type of base.  The date on the key is June 1970.


That's a great buy.  I wouldn't need other jaws, those would work fine for whatever.


----------



## bfd

I bought 2 used and abused vidmar cabinets nearby me out of craigslist. a 9 drawer and an 11 drawer abused but at a good price. will need some work but I will find things to fill them with I'm sure of it bill


----------



## DSaul

chips&more said:


> I always wondered if the medical oxygen generator would work for my small torch. I was always out of the little oxygen tanks when I needed the torch for an important job! Today I found a generator for 10 bucks at the flea market. Took it home set it up and it works like a champ with oxygen to spare!
> View attachment 227351



You stole that for $10.  I paid $150 for mine and that was a deal.  That thing will run a much larger torch.  I use mine with a Victor J28 clone and a barbecue propane tank to braze bicycle frames.


----------



## chips&more

DSaul said:


> You stole that for $10.  I paid $150 for mine and that was a deal.  That thing will run a much larger torch.  I use mine with a Victor J28 clone and a barbecue propane tank to braze bicycle frames.


Thank you for the insight. I had the biggest tip on the torch and noticed the flow meter on the generator was at #3. That’s about half of the max flow that my generator can apparently handle? Have not done any testing yet. Did one job already, works great.


----------



## Hukshawn

chips&more said:


> Thank you for the insight. I had the biggest tip on the torch and noticed the flow meter on the generator was at #3. That’s about half of the max flow that my generator can apparently handle? Have not done any testing yet. Did one job already, works great.


What kind of power does that generator draw? Out of curiosity.


----------



## woodchucker

bfd said:


> I bought 2 used and abused vidmar cabinets nearby me out of craigslist. a 9 drawer and an 11 drawer abused but at a good price. will need some work but I will find things to fill them with I'm sure of it bill


Really , all I find is very expensive vidmars... if they are rusted they still are asking over a thou for them.
I was thinking of just buying a tool cabinet and making my own dividers rather than pay that kind of $$$.


----------



## Bill Gruby

First estate sale of the year. Bought a HF 8X12 lathe with all accessories and stand for #200.00. That makes 4 lathes I own


----------



## JimDawson

Bill, I think there is a 12 step program for that


----------



## wawoodman

Those 12 steps lead to my shop!


----------



## Bill Gruby

I may need the 12 step program. I don't feel bad though, the estate had 14 drill presses for sale.


----------



## ACHiPo

This was a very expensive (and productive) day.  It started with a trip to the Welding Supply store, which was inexpensive only because they didn't have the Miller 211 I want in stock.  I was quite impressed with how friendly and reasonable they were and it's nice to have someplace good that's close.  I haven't gotten a chance to photograph much, so the photos below are what I could find online.

Next stop was the Redwing store for some steel toe boots.  I was surprised how comfortable they were (I've never had a pair), so a swipe of the card and they were mine:



Then onto the primary reason for the outing--I found a guy selling some Silver and Deming drills on CL for a decent price.  I told him I was just getting started and was interested in whatever machining accessories and tooling he had.  Well, I hit the mother lode.  The guy is a retired model maker for Lawrence Berkeley labs, et al, and had a lot of VERY nice stuff!  Starting with a Gerstner 052 and 062 tool chest:




I got a full set of nearly new screw-machine length Chicago-Latrobe fractional, numbered, and lettered cobalt drills.






Metric and SAE spiral point, spiral flute, and forming taps.

Starrett height gauge, B&S height gauge, a set of import parallels and Starrett adjustable parallels.  Starrett universal back plunger indicator.


Lufkin Miti-Mite magnetic base height gauge:



Starrett small diameter gauges:



Brown and Sharpe Bevel Protractor:



I got good, but not screaming, deals on everything.  The wonderful thing is the condition--no surface rust--things are used, but obviously meticulously cared for.

I estimated what cash I'd need knowing I only knew of a few items he had and doubled it, plus I had a couple hundred in my wallet.  I walked out with $25 and a big grin on my face.


----------



## mikey

Hobby machining is a serious disease and you've got it bad, ACHiPo! You did good today and I bet the seller also felt good knowing that his tools will go to someone who will care for them. Imagine some of our guys who have been accumulating tools for decades and have no one to pass them on to.


----------



## ACHiPo

mikey said:


> Hobby machining is a serious disease and you've got it bad, ACHiPo! You did good today and I bet the seller also felt good knowing that his tools will go to someone who will care for them. Imagine some of our guys who have been accumulating tools for decades and have no one to pass them on to.


Mike,
You've pretty much nailed it.  The seller was sad to part with his tools, especially the Gerstner, but he spent 3 hours explaining how he'd been given some of the tools that I bought from him had been passed down to him from his mentors, so he was also happy to see tem have new life.  I didn't negotiate (ok, so I didn't quite agree with his valuation of the Gerstner, but still paid $400 more than I had in mind) and pretty much paid what he asked--in some cases more than he asked.  I think we were both pretty happy.


----------



## Hukshawn

Really had my eye out for a mill vise for a reasonable cost. I've been using a drill press vise, and not even a good one at that. It's soooooooooooo crooked. Like .030" high on one side. You can see it in the back. 
I went to busy with the intention of buying one that had mixed reviews, a kurt style, before I realized it was 5" tall!! That's not gonna fit on this little mill! 
Right beside it was this tool makers vise for $10 more... yoink... snatched the last one up double time... little narrow, but it has a deep throat. I didn't want something with just a small opening then find its too limiting. 
I think this'll do okay.  




I'm also trying out a water soluble cutting fluid... the WD-40 I've been using on the aluminum makes it difficult to clean up the chips. I use a little vacuum, but it all has much to be desired. As you can see... it's a mess!


----------



## woodchucker

ACHiPo said:


> This was a very expensive (and productive) day.  It started with a trip to the Welding Supply store, which was inexpensive only because they didn't have the Miller 212 I want in stock.  I was quite impressed with how friendly and reasonable they were and it's nice to have someplace good that's close.  I haven't gotten a chance to photograph much, so the photos below are what I could find online.
> 
> Next stop was the Redwing store for some steel toe boots.  I was surprised how comfortable they were (I've never had a pair), so a swipe of the card and they were mine:
> View attachment 227884
> 
> 
> Then onto the primary reason for the outing--I found a guy selling some Silver and Deming drills on CL for a decent price.  I told him I was just getting started and was interested in whatever machining accessories and tooling he had.  Well, I hit the mother lode.  The guy is a retired model maker for Lawrence Berkeley labs, et al, and had a lot of VERY nice stuff!  Starting with a Gerstner 052 and 062 tool chest:
> View attachment 227885
> View attachment 227886
> 
> 
> I got a full set of nearly new screw-machine length Chicago-Latrobe fractional, numbered, and lettered cobalt drills.
> View attachment 227890
> View attachment 227891
> View attachment 227892
> 
> 
> 
> Metric and SAE spiral point, spiral flute, and forming taps.
> 
> Starrett height gauge, B&S height gauge, a set of import parallels and Starrett adjustable parallels.  Starrett universal back plunger indicator.
> 
> 
> Lufkin Miti-Mite magnetic base height gauge:
> View attachment 227888
> 
> 
> Starrett small diameter gauges:
> View attachment 227889
> 
> 
> Brown and Sharpe Bevel Protractor:
> View attachment 227887
> 
> 
> I got good, but not screaming, deals on everything.  The wonderful thing is the condition--no surface rust--things are used, but obviously meticulously cared for.
> 
> I estimated what cash I'd need knowing I only knew of a few items he had and doubled it, plus I had a couple hundred in my wallet.  I walked out with $25 and a big grin on my face.


Let me give you a big YOU SUCK!!!

Looks like you did very well..


----------



## ACHiPo

woochucker said:


> Let me give you a big YOU SUCK!!!
> 
> Looks like you did very well..


My pockets are empty but my heart is full!


----------



## ddickey

I bought a Jet band saw. Will be used much i'm sure. Chop saw is going to get lonely.
Next thing I really need is a grinder.


----------



## Bill Gruby

In the extras that came with the lathe is a small Criterion Boring Head. It is 1.5 inches square and should handle a 2 to 2.5 inch hole.


----------



## woodchucker

Bill Gruby said:


> In the extras that came with the lathe is a small Criterion Boring Head. It is 1.5 inches square and should handle a 2 to 2.5 inch hole.


Ahhhh I was wondering why you would go for a HF lathe. Now I understand. I would have too for that.  Sweet.


----------



## Bill Gruby

Jeff:
 The price was right for the lathe. I have wanted to tangle with one of these for some time. Let's see if one can be brought into usable standards. One member here has one and he has done much to improve it. Anything can be made to work better. Of course the bennies are a plus.

 "Billy G"


----------



## ACHiPo

Picked up these cute little vises Friday...


----------



## mikey

The Reed 103R is a highly regarded vise. It has the desired T-shape and replaceable jaws. You done good!
Once upon a time, Palmgren made really good drill press vises and the one you bought looks like an older one made in the US - hard to tell from a pic. They usually have a plate on the bottom of the dynamic jaw that allows you to minimize jaw lift. Take that plate out and make sure its flat and it will do a good job for you.


----------



## darkzero

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


----------



## ACHiPo

mikey said:


> The Reed 103R is a highly regarded vise. It has the desired T-shape and replaceable jaws. You done good!
> Once upon a time, Palmgren made really good drill press vises and the one you bought looks like an older one made in the US - hard to tell from a pic. They usually have a plate on the bottom of the dynamic jaw that allows you to minimize jaw lift. Take that plate out and make sure its flat and it will do a good job for you.


The Reed is like new.  Quite stiff and tight when I bought it.  A little oil and cycling back and forth and the action smoothed things out, but remains nice and tight.

The Palmgren is indeed a US-made older vise.  It does have the plate on the bottom.  It's quite tiny--maybe 1 1/2" wide jaws?


----------



## ACHiPo

Took a few minutes to take
 pics of my haul yesterday.

Shop-made angle clamp block and Kantwist clamps



Import parallel set



Brown and Sharp height gauge



Forming taps.  Not sure whether I have a complete set, but have a couple each of 10-32 and 1/4-20, plus a bunch of smaller sizes.



Starrett adjustable parallels in fantastic condition.



Bench anvil (Starrett)



Starrett height gauge



1/2" OSG Cobalt roughing mill



Lufkin Miti-Mite magnetic height gauge



Various spiral point and spiral flute taps (HSS)




Starrett tap handle



Starrett small hole gauges



Chicago-Latrobe bright cobalt complete screw machine drill index



Starrett universal dial test indicator





Brown and Sharpe protractor



Starrett radius gauge set



Metric HSS taps



A couple Goldenrod oilers



And the coup de grace...the Gerstner


----------



## francist

Some nice looking stuff there, that's for sure. Good find.

-frank


----------



## ACHiPo

francist said:


> Some nice looking stuff there, that's for sure. Good find.
> 
> -frank


Thanks.  Now I've just gotta learn how to use it!


----------



## woodchucker

ACHiPo said:


> Took a few minutes to take
> pics of my haul yesterday.
> 
> Shop-made angle clamp block and Kantwist clamps
> View attachment 227987
> 
> 
> Import parallel set
> View attachment 227988
> 
> 
> Brown and Sharp height gauge
> View attachment 227989
> 
> 
> Forming taps.  Not sure whether I have a complete set, but have a couple each of 10-32 and 1/4-20, plus a bunch of smaller sizes.
> View attachment 227990
> 
> 
> Starrett adjustable parallels in fantastic condition.
> View attachment 227991
> 
> 
> Bench anvil (Starrett)
> View attachment 227992
> 
> 
> Starrett height gauge
> View attachment 227993
> 
> 
> 1/2" OSG Cobalt roughing mill
> View attachment 227994
> 
> 
> Lufkin Miti-Mite magnetic height gauge
> View attachment 227995
> 
> 
> Various spiral point and spiral flute taps (HSS)
> View attachment 227996
> 
> 
> 
> Starrett tap handle
> View attachment 227997
> 
> 
> Starrett small hole gauges
> View attachment 227998
> 
> 
> Chicago-Latrobe bright cobalt complete screw machine drill index
> View attachment 227999
> 
> 
> Starrett universal dial test indicator
> View attachment 228001
> 
> View attachment 228000
> 
> 
> Brown and Sharpe protractor
> View attachment 228002
> 
> 
> Starrett radius gauge set
> View attachment 228003
> 
> 
> Metric HSS taps
> View attachment 228004
> 
> 
> A couple Goldenrod oilers
> View attachment 228005
> 
> 
> And the coup de grace...the Gerstner
> View attachment 228006
> View attachment 228007



OHHHHH  GEEZ I gave you a big YOU SUCK !!! before I knew about the rest of this cache... now you DEFINITELY SUCK!!!   that's a huge score. Some of those look like they have never been used, others are just in great shape.  
REALLY NICE HAUL!!!


----------



## MonkMan

One sweet find, congrats


----------



## pstemari

Grooving tool and inserts for making some semi-circular grooves:

LGS58L 5/8", Left Hand orientation, Straight, GROOVE 'N TURN toolholder.

LGT125D2LFR GROOVE 'N TURN, Uncoated, lefthand, full radius insert.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## wawoodman

Well, it wasn't today, but the Craigslist gremlins have certainly got me this week. First was this neat little Dake 00 press. I have an import 2-ton, but I just couldn't say no to this one.



Then, a pretty good deal on a 4-inch Wilton Bullet vise. I haven't take it apart to look for the date, yet, but it has a zip code in the casting, so that would put it after 1963. And man, it's heavy!


----------



## ACHiPo

wawoodman said:


> Well, it wasn't today, but the Craigslist gremlins have certainly got me this week. First was this neat little Dake 00 press. I have an import 2-ton, but I just couldn't say no to this one.
> View attachment 228060
> 
> 
> Then, a pretty good deal on a 4-inch Wilton Bullet vise. I haven't take it apart to look for the date, yet, but it has a zip code in the casting, so that would put it after 1963. And man, it's heavy!
> View attachment 228061


Nice vise!


----------



## hman

Ya know .... 

... this is about the only forum I can think of where it's socially acceptable for us to be discussing our vices


----------



## darkzero

hman said:


> Ya know ....
> 
> ... this is about the only forum I can think of where it's socially acceptable for us to be discussing our vices



And be sure to keep your slick on the ice!


----------



## MozamPete

Picked up a nice second hand 0 to 150mm Starrett depth micrometer.


----------



## 2volts

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


----------



## MozamPete

2volts said:


> A $40 cardboard box of tools
> I'm happy.
> 
> pete



What are the strange pliers for?


----------



## 2volts

Saw setting pliers
I doubt I will ever use them


----------



## aliva

just ordered a new Kurt DX6 vise from Travers, kind of expensive, but I think it's worth it. I'll never need another one.
Should be here Friday


----------



## Atlascycle

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


----------



## ddickey

I'm betting here.
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/


----------



## darkzero

Atlascycle said:


> would you care to share where you found them?



Yes, from ArcEuroTrade. LMS carries the ER32s also.


----------



## Atlascycle

Thanks Will,


----------



## woodchucker

wawoodman said:


> Well, it wasn't today, but the Craigslist gremlins have certainly got me this week. First was this neat little Dake 00 press. I have an import 2-ton, but I just couldn't say no to this one.
> View attachment 228060
> 
> 
> Then, a pretty good deal on a 4-inch Wilton Bullet vise. I haven't take it apart to look for the date, yet, but it has a zip code in the casting, so that would put it after 1963. And man, it's heavy!
> View attachment 228061


Two good scores.


----------



## ACHiPo

Got my Reilang oiler in the mail today.  I got the 200 ml version--it's a cute little thing.  Looking forward to receiving spindle oil later this week and trying it out!



Also arriving today was my Aloris AXA QCTP with 5 Aloris and 1 aftermarket holder.


----------



## darkzero

Atlascycle said:


> Thanks Will,



No problem. Something very familiar, do I know you from CPF?


----------



## Atlascycle

darkzero said:


> No problem. Something very familiar, do I know you from CPF?


Yes, Same Username on CPF


----------



## Charles Spencer

ACHiPo said:


> Got my Reilang oiler in the mail today. I got the 200 ml version



Uh oh.  Aren't you afraid it won't work because it's metric and most of our oils are SAE?

I suppose you could order oil from outside the country.


----------



## ACHiPo

Charles Spencer said:


> Uh oh.  Aren't you afraid it won't work because it's metric and most of our oils are SAE?
> 
> I suppose you could order oil from outside the country.


I downloaded an SAE to DIN converter for it


----------



## darkzero

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


----------



## ronboult

Oh Oh Will
Is that another new Noga to go with your new Mitu?
Cant have too many Noga's or Mitu's.
By the way I took your lead and ended up with two new Mitutoyo Quantum Mikes. I couldnt believe how silky smooth and reproducible they are. Even with the rapid travel they give the same reading every time. 
Ron


----------



## darkzero

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.




I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.




Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544


----------



## T Bredehoft

I've had one of those Mitotoyu 360 indicators for maybe 25 years, it's just short of indispensable. On the other hand, it's almost twice as heavy as my go-to Federal TestMasters, so it stays in the box until needed.


----------



## ronboult

Will
Have you noticed that with the Quantumikes in imperial mode,the part you have just made is always the wrong size. Switch them to metric (their native language) then the part is always exactly the right size. He He
Ron


----------



## sanddan

I love my Quantumikes, have a 0-1 and 1-2.

I got them on one of those great Enco 25% off with free shipping deals. Man do I miss Enco.


----------



## darkzero

ronboult said:


> Will
> Have you noticed that with the Quantumikes in imperial mode,the part you have just made is always the wrong size. Switch them to metric (their native language) then the part is always exactly the right size. He He
> Ron



Haha, I have no idea what you are talking about! 

But seriously, I have noticed that with digitals they are slightly more accurate in metric mode because of which, well for Mitutoyos anyway. I don't own anything else in digital other than Mitu.


----------



## pstemari

Thinbit tool holder and radius grooving inserts




Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## woodchucker

darkzero said:


> Scored this really interesting Mitu DTI. The tip can be rotated 360° to the face. I never knew anything like this existed. No original paperwork but it looks brand spanking new. These things are pretty expensive!


I never saw that either, but it's an excellent score. Looks new.. Sweet.


----------



## roadie33

Just got home from the auction for a local school and picked up this for $ 150
Thought it was a good deal. 
Needs a little cleanup, ground clamp, and nose piece for the gun.
It has a place for a spool gun hookup, but I believe it is only DC.
This will hopefully replace my 12 yr old HF Dual Mig 151.


----------



## ACHiPo

QUOTE="roadie33, post: 467782, member: 35556"]Just got home from the auction for a local school and picked up this for $ 150
Thought it was a good deal.
Needs a little cleanup, ground clamp, and nose piece for the gun.
It has a place for a spool gun hookup, but I believe it is only DC.
This will hopefully replace my 12 yr old HF Dual Mig 151.


View attachment 228429

	

		
			
		

		
	
[/QUOTE]
You win.  I didn't get a bargain like you, but I did get a brand-spankin' new Miller 211 with all the accessories I need to get started on MIG.









	

		
			
		

		
	
 [

I also ordered a HF 44" lower tool chest and a 4x6 horizontal vertical bandsaw.


----------



## dlane

Machinery fix for the month mod # 10293 belsaw sharpener 


Been having withdrawals $80.00


----------



## Alan H.

I have been studying bandsaws for 3 months.  Looked for used ones, studied specs til blue in the face, and gave it all up today. 

I bought an Ellis 1600.   I'm excited about it and hope to have it next week.   BTW, noticed that Jet has now cloned the Ellis.


----------



## pstemari

W00t! Are you buying that new? It's one serious looking piece of element: nice solid guides, good blade tensioner, and the miter adjustment looks rock solid.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## Alan H.

Yeap, sprung for a new one along with their heavier vise.  

BTW, a couple of our members here have them and give them good marks.  That's what led me to them to begin with.


----------



## darkzero

Got my very first Starrett micrometer. 0-1/2" round anvil tube mic. Only got it cause it was so cute & the price was good. Never knew 1/2" mics existed.









Size comparison


----------



## ACHiPo

Alan H said:


> I have been studying bandsaws for 3 months.  Looked for used ones, studied specs til blue in the face, and gave it all up today.
> 
> I bought an Ellis 1600.   I'm excited about it and hope to have it next week.   BTW, noticed that Jet has now cloned the Ellis.
> View attachment 228593


Hokey smokes that thing's a beast!


----------



## Charles Spencer

darkzero said:


> Size comparison



It's not how big it is, it's what you do with it.

Of course it's obviously not up to some jobs.


----------



## pstemari

Mrpete222 was using one of these in one of his videos and it was so darn cute I had to get one:







Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## Firestopper

roadie33 said:


> Just got home from the auction for a local school and picked up this for $ 150
> Thought it was a good deal.
> Needs a little cleanup, ground clamp, and nose piece for the gun.
> It has a place for a spool gun hookup, but I believe it is only DC.
> This will hopefully replace my 12 yr old HF Dual Mig 151.
> 
> 
> View attachment 228429



Nice find and with optional spot pulse panel!



Alan H said:


> I have been studying bandsaws for 3 months.  Looked for used ones, studied specs til blue in the face, and gave it all up today.
> 
> I bought an Ellis 1600.   I'm excited about it and hope to have it next week.   BTW, noticed that Jet has now cloned the Ellis.
> View attachment 228593



Allan, your gonna like your Ellis. Use a C-clamp when cutting angles to keep the material from pulling to prevent teeth from breaking. Don't over tighten the cam-vise as this will lead to disassembly and resetting the star adjuster.
Edit: I hope you went with the screw type vice....Way better holding.


----------



## Alan H.

firestopper said:


> Allan, your gonna like your Ellis. Use a C-clamp when cutting angles to keep the material from pulling to prevent teeth from breaking. Don't over tighten the cam-vise as this will lead to disassembly and resetting the star adjuster.
> Edit: I hope you went with the screw type vice....Way better holding.


Paco, based on your and Brad's earlier feedback , I also bought the screw vise.


----------



## Firestopper

I wish I had that advice when I purchase my 1800 some years back. I have two cam-lock vises and now a new screw vice. Good for you, your gonna love that dry cut saw.
When I get home I'll send you the brand of blade I'm currently using. Picked up two on eBay for a song and dance and they have cut everything from solid steel bar, aluminum and tubing with no clogging. I think they are 5/7 by Bacho. My general purpose Ellis blades work great except on aluminum. I always run the speed on the slowest speed. I have also rebuilt the down feed cylinder for under $20. Original bearings and the saw lives outside but covered, very well built machine.
http://www.snaponindustrialbrands.c...dscom/Content/PDF/Bahco Bandsaw Catalog 6.pdf


----------



## Redmech

This arrived today for me. Not an expensive tool, but just a cheap trammel for comparative measurements at work. I'm a heavy equipment mechanic in a mine. Also for drawing large or small circles. I can scribe, pencil, or use a soapstone in it.


----------



## ddickey

I bought a file, chip brush and a protractor from HJE.


----------



## Redmech

ddickey said:


> I bought a file, chip brush and a protractor from HJE.




If you ever make it to Kansas City, their store is like no other. I've been buying from them for close to two decades.


----------



## tlrascal

I bought a 1" R8 end mill holder so I can use the 1" end mills I bought the other day.  I bought those because I didn't like using the 1/2" end mills I bought a week ago to replace the 8MM end mills I bought two weeks ago to replace........  oh forget it.  Check with me tomorrow.


----------



## woodchucker

I bought a Clausing 8520 today, in very nice shape. I did very well on that one.

I also bought from the same person a SB 9/10 taper attachment. That I took a beating on. I was checking out the repair made on it, and didn't notice the hair line cracks on the gib screws.  I can't re-sell it, so I'm going to have to braze it and retap it.  At that point I would probably not use the original screws (missing from this unit), but I have from my current cross slide. I don't have an oxy/acet unit, only mig, so I'll have to bring it to someone to get it done.

Has anyone ever repaired a cross slide that's been abused by over tightening? I don't believe it will be a problem if repaired well, since the gib will do the sliding. I think the real issue is re-flattening the bottom plate of the cross slide and preventing it from cracking again.  For the few times I will need and use it, I may just use my current cross slide until I need to do tapering.

Pics of both will be coming. The Clausing is now in pieces so I could get it out of the van and down the basement.  I never did take pics.
The clausing will go through a rebuild to see what I need, I already see I probably need bearings on the idler pulleys, or they need to be dimpled in, as the outter race is spinning (either from being too loose or because it's starting to go bad), it doesn't feel gritty, but it is not as loose as expected.
I need to see why the quill does not return to the top on it's own, I don't see where the spring is on this unit.  I'll need new felt wipers.  There didn't seem to be any backlash??? How is that possible? The screw is in beautiful shape, all fat at the tops. Lots to do...   Gotta get the knee apart, I took the table off, but left the knee intact, now have to pull that apart.

The unit just has an on off, so I have to get a drum switch to reverse it.. I may even go 220 after reading what Finster said about his motor under 220..  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/smoked-my-8520-mill-motor-today-crap.56998/#post-469052


----------



## BFHammer

I've always had a fondness for vintage tools.  When I got into metalworking several years ago I found myself shopping for vintage vises. In the past few years I have picked up a couple of 1940s craftsman vises and an old prentice.  What I have really been looking for is a big old Reed. What I have found is that apparently there aren't many in my neck of woods.  The few I have found have been broken and abused. The only others is see are on eBay and the freight is just too much to make it attractive. 

Well.....I was checking Craigslist earlier this week and found this hidden away under "vice".  Turns out it was just a few miles from my house.  Now it has been happily relocated to my shop!   A Reed 106R -weighing in at over 130lbs! It's a monster but it's as smooth as silk. Restoration doesn't appear to be necessary, probably just a clean up and some fresh paint.


----------



## Ken from ontario

That's one heck of a find BF Hammer.
The best part of buying old tools like that is the drive home..


----------



## Redmech

Old tools are great. Nice find. I for sure love the drive home after the great buy happens.


----------



## Surprman

Today I bought an Aloris AXA tool post set - with two tool holders for my SB 9C.  I am hoping they are  as good as I have heard (from just about everyone).  I'm sure it will be an upgrade from my lantern style tool post.

Rick


----------



## BFHammer

Ken from ontario said:


> That's one heck of a find BF Hammer.
> The best part of buying old tools like that is the drive home..





Redmech said:


> Old tools are great. Nice find. I for sure love the drive home after the great buy happens.



I understand. I was so excited when i got home - my wife just didn't get it.  The best she could say was "I guess it's ok - it just looks old and dirty".  "And how many of these things do you have now....."


----------



## ACHiPo

BFHammer said:


> I understand. I was so excited when i got home - my wife just didn't get it.  The best she could say was "I guess it's ok - it just looks old and dirty".  "And how many of these things do you have now....."


Yeah, you pretty much suck! 

Nice score!


----------



## ewkearns

20 hp 3-phase motor for the RPC.....


----------



## FOMOGO

Now you have something to use in conjunction with that BFH. Cheers, Mike


----------



## FOMOGO

Missed it by that much, a Craigs list ad for a 12.5 hp balanced phase converter set up for a cnc mill, for $500. Cheers, Mike



ewkearns said:


> 20 hp 3-phase motor for the RPC.....


----------



## EmilioG

Great tools.  My pet peeve is marked tools. Why do people mark their tools?  Putting big ugly gouges instead of a discreet small name or number.
I own a few that I bought used from Ebay, not so bad.  Please guys, don't deface your tools. There are better ways to "mark" your tools as yours.


----------



## woodchucker

EmilioG said:


> Great tools.  My pet peeve is marked tools. Why do people mark their tools?  Putting big ugly gouges instead of a discreet small name or number.
> I own a few that I bought used from Ebay, not so bad.  Please guys, don't deface your tools. There are better ways to "mark" your tools as yours.


Emilio , guys mark their tools when they work in shops with lots of people. They are not concerned about the next owner, only that they can say that's my tool.


----------



## EmilioG

I understand that. I wrote that. All I was saying is that there is a better way. Never mind the next owner, I wouldn't want to use a defaced tool.
Yesterday I saw an Albrecht chuck with a big W carved into the nose shell. A small engraving will work for ID. And, one should think of future resale value in case you want to sell and buy a new version.  They're on Ebay all the time.  Why carve big ugly marks into a nice Starrett wood case, on the top?


----------



## woodchucker

EmilioG said:


> I understand that. I wrote that. All I was saying is that there is a better way. Never mind the next owner, I wouldn't want to use a defaced tool.
> Yesterday I saw an Albrecht chuck with a big W carved into the nose shell. A small engraving will work for ID. And, one should think of future resale value in case you want to sell and buy a new version.  They're on Ebay all the time.  Why carve big ugly marks into a nice Starrett wood case, on the top?


Again, these guys are trying to protect their tools from walking off, or being able to recognize them from a distance.  I don't mind their engravings. Sometimes I admire how well they engraved something, or the flair with which they did it. I also would like to think that while the original owner may be gone, that he'd like to know that his tools are being cared for and used.   And because a STARRETT is so expensive, you definitely want to make sure that it's marked.


----------



## Alan H.

Agree that they are/were protecting their significant investments in tools by marking their ownership.  

They likely don't really care what others thought or would think later.  Unfortunately it does tend to affect the value of the tools for resale.  In my opinion, it is often an indicator of pretty heavy use which also would affect what I'd be willing to pay.


----------



## EmilioG

Unfortunately, a mark doesn't prevent theft, just ID at a workplace with so many tools around.
I prefer to buy tools without major markings. Small name or mark is oK, but a big ugly gauge, I pass.
I returned an Albrecht chuck like that. The seller hid the large mark on the nose shell. It was a huge initial mark, H.M.
So always ask about marks when buying used on a website., unless you like marks.


----------



## woodchucker

I have no problem with Marks. I'm ok with owning someone else's history.


----------



## BFHammer

I don't have a problem with it. I have a number of marked tools. It works for both sides. I have a marked tool that is a quality tool I got at a good price. 
Capitalism at work!


----------



## roadie33

Who cares what the tool looks like. I buy them to do a job. So long as they are accurate and work like they are supposed to.
I don't buy tools to show how nice they look.


----------



## darkzero

Emilio, while I'm on the same page with you I'm not on the same paragraph & others may be too. I buy a lot of used tools. I prefer to buy tools with no personal markings on them. I'll pay more for something clean unless it's a really good deal. Less than 1% of my tools are engraved, probably less than that, I think I only have 2 tools that have personal markings on them & they are not names, they are either a control # or dept #. Others don't care about markings, perfectly fine. I'll only keep a tool that has someone name on it if it was someone I personally knew.

Personal marking can somewhat deter theft, that is in the work place. A good thief can make it disappear. But like others have commented, when working in a big shop or whatever you sometimes have to mark tools. When I was an auto mechanic, as much as I didn't want to, I marked all my Snap on, Matco, etc stuff cause we had much of the same tools. Stuff that was easy to distinguish that others did not have I did not mark like my pneumatic tools. I marked my hand tools discretely like you. But everyone's not the same. When I worked in electronics repair it was a big company, people like to walk off with things. Placing your mark big & noticeable is more appropriate in that case, so it's easily seen by you & others. Easier to just glance at a big mark, without having to confront a person & inspect the tool for you mark, no one likes to be accused.

Who cares how people mark their stuff, it's theirs, they're not thinking about resale value. As long as it doesn't affect the functionality of the tool it doesn't matter. Everyone is different, you can't recommend someone on how to mark their own tools. I don't mark any of my machining related tools cause I don't use them for work, but still I'm not thinking about resale value. My tools may resale when I am gone, at that point I don't care & won't know.

As for that Albrecht marked HM, you should of kept it & resold it here. "Albrecht chuck for sale, custom engraved Hobby-Machinist".


----------



## MozamPete

Brought a Delta Rockwell 24" scroll saw (model 40-440) I saw on a internet classified site over here. Turns out the guy was just up the road from me.






Also turns out the guy is into casting as well, but is leaving the country so when I say I want it to make some patterns for metal cast he through in some sand mound fettling tools as well.


Obviously into a level of casting well above my present state - which is getting a rough chunk of metal in a shape which is easier to machine down to what I actually want. But gives me something to aspire to.


----------



## hman

Hope you enjoy your "new" saw!  A neighbor of mine was trying to get rid of one several years ago.  I posted here, hoping to find it a good home.  Unfortunately, I had absolutely no room for it, and other members were in pretty much the same boat (or too far away - kinda like you!)  I guess it went for scrap   The neighbor has since moved away.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/save-this-one-from-the-knackers.23032/


----------



## MozamPete

I have to admit that when I went to pick it up it was a bit bigger than I had in my mind from the pictures. But I will make space for it.


----------



## ddickey

I bought a MT5 dead center. Now I won't have to use the MT5 to MT3 sleeve when turing between centers.


----------



## darkzero

ddickey said:


> I bought a MT5 dead center. Now I won't have to use the MT5 to MT3 sleeve when turing between centers.



I tried that once, unfortunately it didn't work for me though. The MT5 center stuck out too much so my drive dogs wouldn't reach my faceplate. I didn't want to go through the hassle of modifying all my dogs so I just went back to using the sleeve & a MT3.


My MT5 that stuck out too much.




With the MT3.




Damn I miss Enco, when I was buying new centers, I was cheap & went with the less expensive import brand instead of the USA made. To my surprise their imports were Bison! Yeah technically import but I was expecting PhaseII or something.


----------



## ddickey

Man I didn't even think about that. Will have to check next day off.


----------



## darkzero

ddickey said:


> Man I didn't even think about that. Will have to check next day off.



Yeah, me too, I totally did not expect that. I guess that may be one of the reasons why they use sleeves. But hopefully it works out for you.


----------



## pstemari

darkzero said:


> I tried that once, unfortunately it didn't work for me though. The MT5 center stuck out too much so my drive dogs wouldn't reach my faceplate. I didn't want to go through the hassle of modifying all my dogs so I just went back to using the sleeve & a MT3....


+1, except I bought a Riten center. OTOH, it's still good for larger work and I can always use a straight dog and a bolt in the faceplate.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## richl

Been picking up tooling the last few months. Here are a few...
Er40 blocks
Mt3 to er40 for the lathe ts
Bt30 to er40 for the mill
Not pictured...
Noga holders
Dti fowley 
Horizontal Dti mit..

Gearing up for a good season playing in the shop


----------



## rwm

While we are on the topic of centers: What are your thoughts on live centers vs regular? Do you lose accuracy from the bearings in a live center? Who makes a good live center (brand or source)?
And: How do you grip a center to resharpen it?

Check this out!







Robert


----------



## MonkMan

http://www.royalproducts.com/product.cfm?catid=8

I think these are the best.


----------



## darkzero

rwm said:


> While we are on the topic of centers: What are your thoughts on live centers vs regular? Do you lose accuracy from the bearings in a live center? Who makes a good live center (brand or source)?
> And: How do you grip a center to resharpen it?
> 
> Check this out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Robert



Royal is one of the best in my book. Riten & the high end line of Rohm are also pretty good. Too expensive for me though. I personally use Skoda, great bang for the buck & I have been very happy with them.

You have to remove the nose to restore them. But they are ground & will only be as accurate as your setup & machine's capability if try to restore yourself.


----------



## ronboult

Been infected with Tool Fever from reading too many DarkZero posts. Didn't realise you could catch it over the internet even though I am far away in Australia until it was too late. 
Started with Noga's and now incurable.
Any way my latest purchases have been some Reilang oilers- very nice kit
 Bought two types       
	

		
			
		

		
	




The nozzle type fits all the the different sized ball oilers on my lathe and mill- {there are several sizes} and depresses the ball to let in oil with minimum leakage. The pump has sufficient pressure to force oil into even the most resistant oilers on my lathe.
Why are some oilers more difficult to inject oil than others?

The oiler with the brush is great for flat surfaces, tailstock ways etc where oil is harder to evenly  distribute. Have been fiddling with Knurlers recently and noticed that some of my stored wheels were showing spots of rust. No problem the brush placed a thin even coating of oil over all the fine teeth.
I think the best part is that the oilers work in most orientations and DO NOT leak even when tipped over or inverted. 

Purchased from Jens Putzier Tools in Germany. Excellent service , fast shipping and when I had a problem with one of the first ones shipped was replaced promptly without a quibble. Wish all dealers provided such excellent service. Highly recommended


----------



## JimDawson

ronboult said:


> Been infected with Tool Fever from reading too many DarkZero posts. Didn't realise you could catch it over the internet even though I am far away in Australia until it was too late.



It is very contagious.    Nice score!


----------



## darkzero

LMAO!! Huh, what did I do, I don't know noting!


----------



## darkzero

Today I got a really clean pair of Mitutoyo 18" vernier calipers with wooden case. 







Here it is next to a 12" & a 6".


----------



## Bamban

Did not buy it, but rather traded for it. It was in a local listing, cash or trade, called the seller whether he will entertain trade for a S&W Model 19 blued 6 inch barrel. He agreed to look at the model 19, it just so happened  we were on the way out of town the following day and did not have time to meet up. Called on one of my shooting buddies to handle the transaction for me, told him I trust his judgment. I got these pictures in the email while I was out of town.  Just back in town and still have not seen it.

I bought the model 19 used from a police supplier house, it was a trade in. I paid 275 for it out the door, not a lot for a used revolver. Money wise, looking at the trade we're probably even, both parties are happy, the key elament of a good deal. I've been wanting a Wilton vise, but never could force myself to buy a new one, and the model 19 is just one of the collection that I never used since I bought it. I am sure I will put this vise to work.

My buddy called when he picked it up, saying the vise is almost brand new and judging it by the pictures I received, it does look new.


----------



## MozamPete

My Knipex parallel jaw wrench arrived. Saw a pair of these in a YouTube machining video and thought they looked good. Did a bit of searching on the internet and the reviews were all outstanding, everyone that tried then loved them so I though I had better give them a go.


These are the 300mm size pair.


----------



## FOMOGO

Interesting design, they look pretty versatile. Mike


----------



## MozamPete

Yes, sort of half way between an adjustable spanner and a pipe wrench. The jaws move parallel and are smooth so non marking. And the cam design allows a huge amount of force to be exerted (at the expense of only having a small range of jaw travel at each setting). Can open up to over 60mm though.


----------



## ddickey

darkzero said:


> I tried that once, unfortunately it didn't work for me though. The MT5 center stuck out too much so my drive dogs wouldn't reach my faceplate. I didn't want to go through the hassle of modifying all my dogs so I just went back to using the sleeve & a MT3.
> 
> 
> My MT5 that stuck out too much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the MT3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn I miss Enco, when I was buying new centers, I was cheap & went with the less expensive import brand instead of the USA made. To my surprise their imports were Bison! Yeah technically import but I was expecting PhaseII or something.


Yep, to big.


----------



## Nogoingback

Not me, but my son.  He's 20 years old and recently told me he wanted to put together a box of his own tools so that
he can work on his car.  He's a student and doesn't have much money, so I suggested the local pawn shop.  He got a good
start: with a couple of exceptions all older USA made tools for 3 bucks!


----------



## Redmech

I received a mighty mag base in the mail today, also a pair of China made Amazon purchase parallel set. Took them to my granite block, and they all are very flat, no feeler gage would fit below parallel and table, and all were within .0005" of the advertised measurement. I'm really impressed with the quality.  And all have very nice square surfaces.


----------



## Redmech

I have the exact same Wilton vise on the bumper of my service truck.


----------



## chips&more

Today I found a Palmgren 4” tilt vise with swivel base for 5 bucks. Looks good, just a lot of shop grim on it. Maybe weighs 35lbs.


----------



## Alan H.

Bought a small drill press, some collets, and a Fogbuster.  

Hope my wife doesn't catch me.  If she does, I am blaming Mark, David, Mike and Brad plus any others here that might come to mind at the time!


----------



## bss1

Wow! That's nice!  I think your safe with the wife. You have so much equipment now, if she is anything like my wife, she won't be able to tell what's new and what's old. I just make sure and hide the packing material until trash day!


----------



## darkzero

Got me a new condition surface gage.


----------



## Redmech

That's nice, I have an import copy, Starrett is always so well done, I'm jealous.


----------



## ddickey

Bought a couple spiral fluted taps on Ebay. One Widia and a Bendix.


----------



## Redmech

Friday I purchased a few items from a machinist on Craigslist. Purchased a 9-10" Starrett 436 Micrometer, a B&S 6-7" and a B&S 7-8" micrometer both in the wooden cases and the 7-8" had a 7" standard, and a 3" and 4" Jansson gage block in a wooden box for 120$ total, then tonight picked up a 5-6" NSK Micrometer off that auction site. My goal is to piece together a set of micrometers up to 12", I only have three to go. 

Also ordered a couple more indicators to leave in my home shop instead of running my ones back and forth from my service truck to my home shop. Always seem to have more tools sneaking in.


----------



## Alan H.

Got my TMX collet chuck with D1-4 mount.


----------



## Joncooey

Picked up this Deutz 3 cylinder air cooled diesel for $120.  Two shots of either and she fired right up. Well..ran a little rough for a minute.  Noisy as hell; just a straight-pipe.  Staying up at night thinking about what I could make with it.  Already have 3 mobile welders; (one's there in the background) maybe an air compressor or a/c generator or sawmill.


----------



## Ken from ontario

Joncooey said:


> View attachment 230577
> 
> Picked up this Deutz 3 cylinder air cooled diesel for $120.  Two shots of either and she fired right up. Well..ran a little rough for a minute.  Noisy as hell; just a straight-pipe.  Staying up at night thinking about what I could make with it.  Already have 3 mobile welders; (one's there in the background) maybe an air compressor or a/c generator or sawmill.


I can't believe you only paid $120, I  see a nice A/C generator in its future.


----------



## johnnyc14

New bandsaw!


----------



## ELHEAD

Joncooey said:


> View attachment 230577
> 
> Picked up this Deutz 3 cylinder air cooled diesel for $120.  Two shots of either and she fired right up. Well..ran a little rough for a minute.  Noisy as hell; just a straight-pipe.  Staying up at night thinking about what I could make with it.  Already have 3 mobile welders; (one's there in the background) maybe an air compressor or a/c generator or sawmill.


A friend of mine uses an Isuzu diesel to power his bowl lathe. Think outside the box.
Dave


----------



## Burnt Blacksmith

silver bullet- best wishes- I know what you are going through, been there. Surgery in 02 after 2 years of pain from a work accident in 2ooo. It bothers me to this day but its something I have learned to live with. Two hip replacements after the back surgery  and just found out my bladder is full of tumors. Not looking for sympathy or minimizing your situation. The best advice I can give you is to stick with your physical therapy exercises after you get it under control. And stay busy and positive. Get your mind off of it. It will consume you if you let it. Cant work in the shop? Start drawing or designing what you would like to build or do when you feel better. And you will. Learn something new about your hobby . The mental aspect of what you are going through is as important as the medical. Let me know how things are going, there are more of us out there dealing with this sort of thing than you would think, Didnt mean to steer this thing away from the main topic but thought I should throw in my take on this. I bought an AAMCO shaper a year ago that needed a bull gear and I just installed it tonight and it runs great! now the real fun begins!


----------



## pstemari

Alan H said:


> Got my TMX collet chuck with D1-4 mount.



I'll be real curious to hear how that works out. There seems to be a hierarchy of these collet chucks, with PBA at the top around $1,500, Bison and Gator at around $650, TMX & Shars around $350, and various eBay importers at $170. Specs on all of them are very similar, and it's not at all clear what, if anything, you're getting for the higher prices.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## darkzero

pstemari said:


> I'll be real curious to hear how that works out. There seems to be a hierarchy of these collet chucks, with PBA at the top around $1,500, Bison and Gator at around $650, TMX & Shars around $350, and various eBay importers at $170. Specs on all of them are very similar, and it's not at all clear what, if anything, you're getting for the higher prices.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk



Same here. As you all know TMX is the US importer for Bison. Some of TMX tools were actually the same as Bison at one time, same part numbering system too.

A couple of years I ago I bought a TMX 3-jaw chuck. Big mistake, made In China, absolute junk. I sent it back. Then last year I noticed all TMX chucks were no longer available & they said their chuck manufacturing was being moved to Poland. Guess they realized too. That TMX 5C chuck sure does look like it's made by the same factory as Bison.


----------



## darkzero

Got me another Dumore tool post grinder today. I already scored one years ago but I just had to buy another one today.

So I already have a Dumore 14 which is their smallest tool post grinder. Nicknamed the Tom Thumb (whatever that means), it's only 1/14 HP! Meant for up to 7" lathes so it's a bit small for my 12" lathe. No problem I thought, wasn't plan on grinding anything big anyway.

The Dumore I got today was listed for $250 a week ago. Looked clean & thought it was a good price. I was going to buy it & then thought, why waste my money, I already have one & I just bought brand new bearings for it. So today I'm at the doctor's office waiting, I get bored & ended up looking on Craigslist. Saw the very same Dumore listed for $150 now. I text the seller asking if he still had it for $150. He said yes. Checked my wallet for cash, made arrangements, & as soon as I left the doctor's I went straight to the guy's house to pick it up!

It's a Dumore 44 which is the correct size for my lathe, 8"-14" lathes, 1/4 HP. And this one can use 1/4" shanks as well as 1/8" shanks. My baby Dumore can only use 1/8". Now I gotta place another order with Dumore for new bearings, brushes, & maybe new a belt. It sounds pretty good but I think I'll give it a tune up anyway. 

EDIT: Scratch that, guess I won't be buying bearings from Dumore. The spindle bearings cost $200 ea! The bearings for the baby Dumore that I got from them were cheap.


----------



## HBilly1022

johnnyc14 said:


> New bandsaw!



I got the exact same one close to 2 years ago and love it. It's seen a lot of use too with no issues. I think you will be very happy with it. Enjoy!!


----------



## Alan H.

pstemari said:


> I'll be real curious to hear how that works out. There seems to be a hierarchy of these collet chucks, with PBA at the top around $1,500, Bison and Gator at around $650, TMX & Shars around $350, and various eBay importers at $170. Specs on all of them are very similar, and it's not at all clear what, if anything, you're getting for the higher prices.


Your price for a Bison must not be for a set-tru? If it is, it doesn't include the mounting plate.  You are waaay off on the TMX, must be their older Chinese version.  The TMX is made is Poland now and is the same as the Bison.



darkzero said:


> Same here. As you all know TMX is the US importer for Bison. Some of TMX tools were actually the same as Bison at one time, same part numbering system too.
> 
> A couple of years I ago I bought a TMX 3-jaw chuck. Big mistake, made In China, absolute junk. I sent it back. Then last year I noticed all TMX chucks were no longer available & they said their chuck manufacturing was being moved to Poland. Guess they realized too. That TMX 5C chuck sure does look like it's made by the same factory as Bison.



Will, yes the TMX is made in Poland now and is the same as the Bison.  I confirmed this with Toolmex.  It has a corresponding price, albeit a bit cheaper than the Bison.  I bought mine through Matt at QMT based on his recommendation.   I did mount it on my PM1340GT and dial it in using the set-tru and the run out appears to be almost nil.  I have a .0005" resolution indicator and I got it quickly to where it was showing almost no movement.   I will post a separate thread on it in a week or so after I use it a bit and get through some commitments.


----------



## ACHiPo

Picked up a heavy combo 5" vise for my yet-to-be-built welding table.


----------



## 2volts

darkzero said:


> ....So I already have a Dumore 14 which is their smallest tool post grinder. Nicknamed the Tom Thumb (whatever that means), it's only 1/14 HP!



Tom Thumb is a character of English children tales. Tom is no bigger than his father's thumb, and his adventures include being swallowed by a cow, tangling with giants, and becoming a favourite of King Arthur.


----------



## NCjeeper

Had a good day at the swap meet.


----------



## Alan H.

I am still building my tooling and I received these yesterday.  Bought both off ebay -a CB202 Allied Criterion boring head and an ETM ER40 R8 holder and collet set (3-26mm).   Both are in outstanding condition.


----------



## Rockytime

Gosh, I havn't bought anything today so I'm just gonna order a 2" boring head tonight. Can't afford top of the line so will order from Shars. When I sold the BP I made a mistake and let the one I had go with it.


----------



## NCjeeper

I have a Shars 2" head. Its not bad.


----------



## Redmech

I was looking at my Shars catalog today at the 2" boring head with R8 shank and a few boring bars all for under 100$  It'll be one of my next buys. 

Also today arrived in the mail was my shars 81 piece economy gage block set.  I did go to the basement shop and check my micrometers, digital calipers, and practiced wringing them together.  Pretty nice set. Was pleased with all of it.


----------



## Rockytime

I've searched ebay, amazon and craigs list. Could not beat Shars price.


----------



## Alan H.

I have found that Shars' prices via their ebay store are a bit better than direct.   I am fairly certain that this is them. 

Shars ebay


----------



## darkzero

CDCO has the 2" boring head with R8 arbor for $64 or without arbor for $48. LMS has the 2" boring head without arbor for $53.


----------



## westsailpat

I have seen these wrenches called some different names like engineer's wrench , machinist wrench what ever , this one is a Billings . Because I'm all about the vintage , I love these things plus my little Atlas/Craftsman 6" has square nuts and bolts , so these are a natural .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/401078558496?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


----------



## Superburban

A stop at a yard sale, landed two more tools to my collection. First is a 1/2" female craftsman BE ratchet (with adapter). The second is a 1/4' Husky CM43 (from the 30's I think, but definitely marked made in the USA). Set me back a grand total of $3.


----------



## Alan H.

Finally opened and cleaned up a 6" Dividing Head that I bought from Matt/QMT.

Also received a clamping set for the Ellis drill press from Griz.

Pleasantly surprised by both.


----------



## ddickey

I bought a bunch of Skrooz-on file handles.


----------



## darkzero

Alan H said:


> Finally opened and cleaned up a 6" Dividing Head that I bought from Matt/QMT.



How is the quality? I've been wanting to get one.


----------



## Alan H.

darkzero said:


> How is the quality? I've been wanting to get one.


It's okay - I am looking forward to checking the runout.  It looks like I may be able to Tru it a bit since the chuck is mounted to the mounting plate with some big allen screws.  I should be able to loosen them and dial it in a bit.

I spent about 3 hours cleaning it up, tuning it a bit, and deburring it this afternoon.  It definitely shows its Chinese heritage but I get the sense it will be serviceable.   Matt treated me right on the cost and I had it shipped with the PM935 that I bought recently.  I think it will add a lot to the capability of the mill if the runout is acceptable. 

The sucker is heavy enough to herniate you when you move it.


----------



## darkzero

Alan H said:


> It's okay - I am looking forward to checking the runout.  It looks like I may be able to Tru it a bit since the chuck is mounted to the mounting plate with some big allen screws.  I should be able to loosen them and dial it in a bit.
> 
> I spent about 3 hours cleaning it up, tuning it a bit, and deburring it this afternoon.  It definitely shows its Chinese heritage but I get the sense it will be serviceable.   Matt treated me right on the cost and I had it shipped with the PM935 that I bought recently.  I think it will add a lot to the capability of the mill if the runout is acceptable.
> 
> The sucker is heavy enough to herniate you when you move it.



Thanks Alan, cleaning, deburring, & tuning is expected for me, I do it automatically on any China tooling I get. I don't mind that. As long as it's able to be somewhat decent after doing so is good enough for me.

Do you know roughly how much it weighs with the chuck? I have a 6.5" super spacer that weighs 85lbs. I hate lugging that thing around but I love using it. I just hope the dividing won't be any heavier than that.


----------



## Alan H.

darkzero said:


> Thanks Alan, cleaning, deburring, & tuning is expected for me, I do it automatically on any China tooling I get. I don't mind that. As long as it's able to be somewhat decent after doing so is good enough for me.
> 
> Do you know roughly how much it weighs with the chuck? I have a 6.5" super spacer that weighs 85lbs. I hate lugging that thing around but I love using it. I just hope the dividing won't be any heavier than that.


I think it all weighs 75 lbs.  So the head itself is likely 60 to 65 lbs.


----------



## darkzero

Thanks


----------



## darkzero

Got me a 4" bull nose center that I need for a project. This is the second center I have from Z Live Center. Got it from Amazon for much cheaper than direct from Z Live Center.


----------



## royesses

darkzero said:


> Got me a 4" bull nose center that I need for a project. This is the second center I have from Z Live Center. Got it from Amazon for much cheaper than direct from Z Live Center.



That looks like a well made bullnose. Must have set you back a pretty penny.

Roy


----------



## darkzero

royesses said:


> That looks like a well made bullnose. Must have set you back a pretty penny.
> 
> Roy



It's no Royal but it's more than nice enough for me. Got it new for only $90 shipped from a 3rd party Amazon seller. I'm happy.


----------



## pstemari

darkzero said:


> ... Got it new for only $90 shipped from a 3rd party Amazon seller. I'm happy.



I've been eyeballing that center. That guy was $7 cheaper than z live center, either direct or resold by Amazon. Is the center actually branded zlivecenter? I've found that a lot of the nameless 3P merchants selling stuff on Amazon just pick a similar listing and ship some generic item. Amazon basically ignores the fakes unless the knocked-off brand is big enough to send in a team of lawyers.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## darkzero

pstemari said:


> I've been eyeballing that center. That guy was $7 cheaper than z live center, either direct or resold by Amazon. Is the center actually branded zlivecenter? I've found that a lot of the nameless 3P merchants selling stuff on Amazon just pick a similar listing and ship some generic item. Amazon basically ignores the fakes unless the knocked-off brand is big enough to send in a team of lawyers.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk



That's funny cause I was scared of the same exact thing. Buying directly from Z Live Center would have cost me $44 more (they're in CA so I have to pay tax). On ebay it would have cost me $20 more. I was just going to buy the Shars HD one.

I decided to take the chance. The box for the center didn't look too good & looked like it was resealed. It did have the Z Live Center's p/n on it. Pulled it out the box & that was the first thing I checked for. Has the Z Live etching on it just like my other center from Z live & it looks unused. Lucked out on this one. Been looking at a bull nose for a while now.


----------



## Alan H.

Bought myself a label printer.  I am trying to put stuff up and stored in a more systematic fashion.  Need to label tool box drawers, boxes, etc. in the shop.  It works like I wanted it to.


----------



## RJSakowski

Go where no man has gone before.  

Faced with the possibility of a broken or bent reed valve in my 50 hp Mariner outboard., I was thinking that I would have to do a complete tear-down to inspect the valves.  then I found this:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/401191563765

I ordered it eight days ago and it arrived this morning.  For less than $14, shipping included, I can view the condition of the reeds by inserting through the carburetors.   As a bonus, I can view the condition of the upper cylinders as well.


----------



## Alan H.

Let us know how it works!


----------



## Old junk

New here.gotta figure out pics.
Got a brand new condition Eron
 milling swivel vise today.


----------



## Alan H.

Old junk said:


> New here.gotta figure out pics.
> Got a brand new condition Eron
> milling swivel vise today.


Yeap, we are all into photos.  So we support you fully in figuring out how to post us some.   By the way, posting photos here is not difficult as compared to some other forums.  Welcome to the board, this is a good place where you will get lots of info and help when needed.


----------



## HBilly1022

Old junk said:


> New here.gotta figure out pics.
> Got a brand new condition Eron
> milling swivel vise today.



I use "preview" for looking at pics then just copy and paste into your post.


----------



## 4GSR

RJSakowski said:


> Go where no man has gone before.
> 
> Faced with the possibility of a broken or bent reed valve in my 50 hp Mariner outboard., I was thinking that I would have to do a complete tear-down to inspect the valves.  then I found this:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/401191563765
> 
> I ordered it eight days ago and it arrived this morning.  For less than $14, shipping included, I can view the condition of the reeds by inserting through the carburetors.   As a bonus, I can view the condition of the upper cylinders as well.


Anybody for doing their own self exam colonoscopy?


----------



## JimDawson

RJSakowski said:


> Go where no man has gone before.
> 
> Faced with the possibility of a broken or bent reed valve in my 50 hp Mariner outboard., I was thinking that I would have to do a complete tear-down to inspect the valves.  then I found this:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/401191563765
> 
> I ordered it eight days ago and it arrived this morning.  For less than $14, shipping included, I can view the condition of the reeds by inserting through the carburetors.   As a bonus, I can view the condition of the upper cylinders as well.



Now you went and did it.  You just made me order one of those.    I have a couple of ideas for it.


----------



## pstemari

Alan H said:


> Bought myself a label printer...



Is that a TZ printer or a QL? Either way, welcome to the Brother Label Addicts Club! I started with a handheld one, moved up to a PC connected unit, and then got the latest industrial one from Zoro on one of their sales.

Fantastic units. The industrial one has built-in formats for all sorts of electrical stuff, and can also use the new heat-shrink tubing cartridges.


----------



## Alan H.

pstemari said:


> Is that a TZ printer or a QL? Either way, welcome to the Brother Label Addicts Club! I started with a handheld one, moved up to a PC connected unit, and then got the latest industrial one from Zoro on one of their sales.
> 
> Fantastic units. The industrial one has built-in formats for all sorts of electrical stuff, and can also use the new heat-shrink tubing cartridges.


It is a QL700, connects to the laptop, and uses their software.   I had other handhelds and grew weary of them 'cause they're slow as Christmas and the tape size is limited.


----------



## EmilioG

Bought a used Robb Jack 1" slitting saw arbor in perfect working condition. Really well made.  The cap fits so well that to get it in, you need the SHCS to
keep it lined up.  No previous owners marks either.  Will, I would never tell anyone what to do with their own tools.  Anyone can carve a deep monogram with the family crest if they wish. I really don't care. There's enough out there for sale w/o marks.  I don't need to do it and will not buy a tool that is severely marked either.  I only wished, that the marks were discreet or nicer, for the tools I find for a good price.  I can't force people not to mark tools, how could I? Mark away. I just prefer small or no marks.


----------



## EmilioG

I forgot to mention;  I had a dream of making a slitting saw arbor, but with no lathe skills to speak of, it would've cost more in metal stock and
ruined parts to make a good one.  I bought the Robb Jack for $60.00. The O1 tool steel alone would have cost me $45.00 plus., not to mention time.  They cost $359.00 new!  Maybe one day.


----------



## Silverbullet

Let's see here, I ordered some brushes from HF paint, wire , hand brush . Also I bought there hvlp 20 ounce sprayer and extra cups. The best thing I ordered is a nice wagon for my gran daughter. She 'll be at the right size to get several years of fun . Pop will build it and address any issues . May even give it a clear coat to make it last longer. Shoot ill even slime the tires , so they don't go flat. Trying to get ready for when my back pains gone.


----------



## Alan H.

Now have an Eagle Rock knurling set-up.


----------



## darkzero

Alan H said:


> Now have an Eagle Rock knurling set-up.
> View attachment 231621



Awesome! And it's the K1-44! Ooh, Mike is going to be jealous!

What perfect timing, cause I'm about to make him mad as well!


----------



## darkzero

Sorry @mikey , I know I said I would be on the look out for a knurling tool for you but I just had to get these for myself when I saw them.

Just scored me 2 cut knurlers. Integi brand, made in Spain.

As you all know, cut knurlers are ridiculously expensive many at $1K & over! These look to be the same as the ones Accu-Trak sell. They sell the single for $393 & the double for $630. 

Seller was in the UK on ebay, I shot them an offer & they accepted! I got both of them brand new for $361 plus shipping!

Off to go order me some knurls from Accu-Trak. Now I have to learn knurling all over again! I'll make a separate thread with my results.


----------



## mikey

darkzero said:


> Sorry @mikey , I know I said I would be on the look out for a knurling tool for you but I just had to get these for myself when I saw them.



Oh, no, no, no ... don't you worry about me, Will. I'm happy for you and will wait to see what those cut knurlers can do. 

Actually, I'm jealous but my home improvement projects just grew from 60K to over 100K, and that's just this year. I'm on tool buying hold right now.


----------



## darkzero

mikey said:


> Oh, no, no, no ... don't you worry about me, Will. I'm happy for you and will wait to see what those cut knurlers can do.
> 
> Actually, I'm jealous but my home improvement projects just grew from 60K to over 100K, and that's just this year. I'm on tool buying hold right now.



Mike, I suppose really I should be the one that is jealous. Sorry to hear that it's going to cost more money but it should be well worth it. I wish I had more room & a nice shop space!


----------



## mikey

darkzero said:


> Mike, I suppose really I should be the one that is jealous. Sorry to hear that it's going to cost more money but it should be well worth it. I wish I had more room & a nice shop space!



Yeah, worth it. I'll have more space and I'm going to air condition my shop and put in a PV battery system to get completely off the grid. Should be worth the cost but the very next tool I buy will be an Eagle Rock knurler. Keep us posted on that cut knurler, okay?


----------



## ACHiPo

Four caster/leveling feet for lathe bench showed up today.  Not sure if these are made by CarryMaster, but they certainly look like them, and they seem very solid.  I'm impressed.


----------



## roadie33

That Eagle Rock knurling tool looks good, but they must be proud of the price as they don't even list it on the web site.


----------



## darkzero

Yeah, they are very proud of them but most high quality knurling tools are not cheap. They don't sell direct so like most other manufacturers they don't list the price. I was very very lucky getting mine.

Those leveling casters look like Foot Masters. I never heard of Carry Master but they sure do look the same also.


----------



## mikey

darkzero said:


> Yeah, they are very proud of them but most high quality knurling tools are not cheap. They don't sell direct so like most other manufacturers they don't list the price. I was very very lucky getting mine.
> 
> Those leveling casters look like Foot Masters. I never heard of Carry Master but they sure do look the same also.



I think those Wood River casters are Chinese knock offs of the Korean Foot Master and Carrymaster casters. The Korean ones are very good. I have no experience with the Wood River ones ...


----------



## ACHiPo

Alan H said:


> Now have an Eagle Rock knurling set-up.
> View attachment 231621


Looking forward to reading a review.  I don't yet have knurling capability, and from what I've read the Eagle Rock scissor knurler is the way to go.


----------



## ACHiPo

mikey said:


> I think those Wood River casters are Chinese knock offs of the Korean Foot Master and Carrymaster casters. The Korean ones are very good. I have no experience with the Wood River ones ...


Mike,
The Wood River casters are indeed made in China.  I don't know where the Carrymaster (Zambus) casters are made.  From what I can tell the Carrymaster casters would be about $200/set with 1300 lb capacity.  I found several places that sell Carrymaster, but didn't want to hassle with calling and ordering (couldn't find any online stores that carried them).  I've seen the Foot Master casters, but the only ones I could find were either too small capacity (480 lbs with 4) or as expensive as the Carrymasters ($240/4 with 2400 lb rating).  

The Wood River casters seem pretty high quality, and were the lowest priced caster of that type I could find.  Of course 2 days after I placed the order from Woodcraft I see two other Amazon sites with the same caster set for $30 less.
Evan


----------



## Alan H.

roadie33 said:


> That Eagle Rock knurling tool looks good, but they must be proud of the price as they don't even list it on the web site.


They do not sell direct.  I called them and talked to them about their offerings and which model to get for a manual lathe. 

I found them to be easy to talk to and straightforward.  They also told me that they were out of stock and behind so there must be a demand for them.  I bought mine from Ajax and had to wait on it even though it said it was in stock when I ordered it. 

You are right, they are anything but cheap but it should last two lifetimes, mine and my son's who will inherit it.   It is a brute of a tool.  This new version allows for the knurls to be changed easier.  Eagle Rock told me that they are likely dropping the earlier versions and moving to this one.


----------



## mikey

ACHiPo said:


> Mike,
> The Wood River casters are indeed made in China.  I don't know where the Carrymaster (Zambus) casters are made.  From what I can tell the Carrymaster casters would be about $200/set with 1300 lb capacity.  I found several places that sell Carrymaster, but didn't want to hassle with calling and ordering (couldn't find any online stores that carried them).  I've seen the Foot Master casters, but the only ones I could find were either too small capacity (480 lbs with 4) or as expensive as the Carrymasters ($240/4 with 2400 lb rating).
> 
> The Wood River casters seem pretty high quality, and were the lowest priced caster of that type I could find.  Of course 2 days after I placed the order from Woodcraft I see two other Amazon sites with the same caster set for $30 less.
> Evan



Carrymaster and Foot Master casters are both made in Korea. Both are good but I prefer the Carrymaster brand. I had Footmasters under my mill and didn't like the screws for the levelers - seemed flimsy for the rating. I took them off and installed Carrymasters and they are stout for their rating. I can push an 800# machine around my shop with one finger and then ground and level it in a few minutes. The leveling feature is solid, unlike the Foot Masters, and it doesn't change over time so I'm going with Carrymaster from now on. 

I actually switched the Foot Masters to go under my lathe but I just don't care for the feel or solidity of the leveling feet so they're being replaced with Carrymaster AC-600's. The AC-600's weigh about 3# apiece and they are massive. I chose them because I don't want flex or movement under a lathe and I know the AC-600's are stout; I have two of them now and am waiting for a better price on the other two (got my two from Amazon for $20.00 each, shipped!)

I saw the Wood River casters and suspect they will be fine provided the rating is at least double the weight of the machine. You sure cannot beat the cost. I didn't go for them because I didn't want to chance a mishap or breakage with a heavy machine sitting on them but I admit that I'm probably being overly cautious about that. The wood shop guys seemed to think well of them.


----------



## mikey

Alan H said:


> You are right, they are anything but cheap but it should last two lifetimes, mine and my son's who will inherit it.   It is a brute of a tool.  This new version allows for the knurls to be changed easier.  Eagle Rock told me that they are likely dropping the earlier versions and moving to this one.



Boy, that @darkzero should get a commission on these knurlers. There is absolutely nothing wrong with my shop-made knurler - produces crisp, clean knurls with no issues at all - but even I'm going to buy an Eagle Rock knurler so I can knurl stainless like a big boy.

All joking aside, rigidity is the single most important feature for a knurling tool, IMO. Hardened frame, carbide pins, good fits on the hinge with a hardened stud - all of it matters when you have to knurl something that allows only one pass and Eagle Rock knurlers have the right stuff. They are expensive for a tool that most of us will use only sporadically but from what I've seen and heard, it is the best of its kind.


----------



## Silverbullet

Cardinal green 3 B speed vise , don't see any digits or dings . It looks like brand new , not sure there value but I liked the condition .  It just said make an offer so I did . That and some acorn dies and a holder #2 acorn die holder . I've been trying to stay away from the machinist tools , I own to many now.


----------



## ACHiPo

mikey said:


> Carrymaster and Foot Master casters are both made in Korea. Both are good but I prefer the Carrymaster brand. I had Footmasters under my mill and didn't like the screws for the levelers - seemed flimsy for the rating. I took them off and installed Carrymasters and they are stout for their rating. I can push an 800# machine around my shop with one finger and then ground and level it in a few minutes. The leveling feature is solid, unlike the Foot Masters, and it doesn't change over time so I'm going with Carrymaster from now on.
> 
> I actually switched the Foot Masters to go under my lathe but I just don't care for the feel or solidity of the leveling feet so they're being replaced with Carrymaster AC-600's. The AC-600's weigh about 3# apiece and they are massive. I chose them because I don't want flex or movement under a lathe and I know the AC-600's are stout; I have two of them now and am waiting for a better price on the other two (got my two from Amazon for $20.00 each, shipped!)
> 
> I saw the Wood River casters and suspect they will be fine provided the rating is at least double the weight of the machine. You sure cannot beat the cost. I didn't go for them because I didn't want to chance a mishap or breakage with a heavy machine sitting on them but I admit that I'm probably being overly cautious about that. The wood shop guys seemed to think well of them.



The casters I got are rated for 1300lb and the lathe and bench weighs about 700lbs so hopefully I'll be ok.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## pstemari

Alan H said:


> Now have an Eagle Rock knurling set-up.
> View attachment 231621


Fair warning: the standard knurls on that are tpi knurls, not diameteral pitch knurls, and are a royal pita to change. Be sure to measure the pitch before knurling and work out the appropriate workpiece diameter.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## Alan H.

pstemari said:


> Fair warning: the standard knurls on that are tpi knurls, not diameteral pitch knurls, and are a royal pita to change. Be sure to measure the pitch before knurling and work out the appropriate workpiece diameter.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


I'll have to study that a bit.  I was lazy and didn't cipher anything on this one other than putting it on the machine and giving it a light knurl.  Guess I was lucky coming out of the box.  (BTW, there was an interesting thread here on the board on this topic a couple of weeks ago.)

In terms of being hard to change, not sure what you mean. That was one of the primary reasons I bought the K1 model .  The shafts are not pressed in but are held in place with set screws so changing the knurls is easy.


----------



## Rustrp

mikey said:


> I absolutely hate thread wires; I always drop them in the chip pan or on the floor ... always!



So playdough was never high on your entertainment list. The wires do require a a third hand if you even want to come close to looking like you know what the word accuracy means.


----------



## FOMOGO

Looks great to me. Nice pattern. Mike


----------



## darkzero

The standard K1-201 have pressed in pins. The heavy duty K1-44 like the one Alan & I have the pins are held in with set screws.

Good lucky trying to press in carbide pins on the K1-201, I've seen it done but you have to have really good patience.


----------



## darkzero

mikey said:


> Boy, that @darkzero should get a commission on these knurlers. There is absolutely nothing wrong with my shop-made knurler - produces crisp, clean knurls with no issues at all - but even I'm going to buy an Eagle Rock knurler so I can knurl stainless like a big boy.
> 
> All joking aside, rigidity is the single most important feature for a knurling tool, IMO. Hardened frame, carbide pins, good fits on the hinge with a hardened stud - all of it matters when you have to knurl something that allows only one pass and Eagle Rock knurlers have the right stuff. They are expensive for a tool that most of us will use only sporadically but from what I've seen and heard, it is the best of its kind.



I know right! 

Always happy to help people spend their money!

The Eaglecraft HD K1-44 is probably the best form scissor knurl on the market. Expensive but still worth it IMO as everything on it is beefed up. Scored mine practically new for only $80 years ago so I'm a very happy guy, I miss those days on ebay. If there's a better one out there I would like to know. Not to buy, just to know.


----------



## mikey

Rustrp said:


> So playdough was never high on your entertainment list. The wires do require a a third hand if you even want to come close to looking like you know what the word accuracy means.



Yeah, I know three wires are more accurate but when you are sneaking up on a class 3 fit, you can check tolerances 5-6 times or more. I've tried tape, I've tried modeling clay, and I've even tried holes in delrin to hold those stupid wires. Thing is, I thread different threads and diameter all the time and it is so much hassle to fuss with those wires and I meant what I said; I drop them all the time. Now I don't need to; a Tesa thread micrometer is a jewel to use. I haven't compared them to a three wire reading yet but I cut a 1/2-20 class 3 thread on a 1144 stressproof stud - running fit with zero play.

No, you can go play with your dough. I'll settle for my Tesa ... but I'll be smiling!


----------



## mikey

darkzero said:


> If there's a better one out there I would like to know. Not to buy, just to know.



If I find a better knurler, I'm going to buy it and make some really nice knurls. Then I'm going to come here and work on your mind!


----------



## darkzero

I haven't done it myself yet as I don't own a set of thread wires yet (on my list & I have a thread mic) but a few dabs of thick grease will hold the wires nicely.


----------



## mikey

darkzero said:


> I haven't done it myself yet as I don't own a set of thread wires yet (on my list & I have a thread mic) but a few dabs of thick grease will hold the wires nicely.



Depending on the source, the three wire technique is supposed to be more accurate. It is certainly the standard vs a thread mic but the sheer ease with which a mic allows you to work is worth a little less accuracy. I'm going to check mine the next chance I get, just to see if its a real concern. Personally, I've wanted a Tesa thread mic for years and years; I'm just stoked to have a set.


----------



## woodchucker

Went to Tractor supply last night, I needed a new tire for my tractor.. (didnt get one).
But I picked up one of these for 9.99.. 
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/barn-star-16-in-f-bar-clamp?cm_vc=-10005
While I haven't used it for real work, they seem to be ok, especially for the price.  not copper clad so you couldn't safely weld with it.


----------



## Rustrp

woochucker said:


> Went to Tractor supply last night, I needed a new tire for my tractor.. (didnt get one).
> But I picked up one of these for 9.99..
> https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/barn-star-16-in-f-bar-clamp?cm_vc=-10005
> While I haven't used it for real work, they seem to be ok, especially for the price.  not copper clad so you couldn't safely weld with it.


 The black oxide is still okay to weld with and neither will take a direct hit from the arc but spatter wipes/brushes off of either. The down side of the copper clad is they bind up with heavy clamping. I have two of each style (heavy duty) and I wouldn't buy copper again.


----------



## dlane

A couple beers after the chores 
Were over, 
I'll make chips tomorrow


----------



## aliva

Bought a new parting blade kit with 2 blades, 10 inserts, wrenches and case, from Accusize Tools decent price $ 176.00 Cdn. and works  extremely well No problem parting at 200 rpm with cross slide under power. Also ordered 10 extra .120 inserts at $5.50 each


----------



## gzoerner

After watching recommendations about which edition of the Machinery's Handbook to purchase, I bought Edition 25 (1996).  I ordered it from Alibris and paid $35.  It arrived in 5 days and is in "like new" condition.

Many thanks to all of you for pointing me in the right direction.  I learned that I don't need the latest edition.

I'm learning a lot from the discussions on this site.  You guys are terrific.


----------



## MonkMan

Got my Techniks adjustable torque wrench with the ER32
Glacern R8-ER 32 collet chuck
with a ball bearing nut


----------



## Alan H.

Bought a spare blade for my Ellis horizontal saw.  It is a Bahco Easy Cut as recommended to my by Firestopper.   I was surprised to learn that Bahco is owned by Starrett.


----------



## darkzero

Alan H said:


> I was surprised to learn that Bahco is owned by Starrett.



Nice, didn't know Bahco made bandsaw blades. But are you sure about that? I've always known Bahco to be owned by Snap-On. The fish logo shown is the Bahco I'm familar with.

EDIT: Yep, still owned by Snap-On. They were previously owned by Sandvik.


----------



## Firestopper

I'm still running the first of two Bahco saw blades.  Sharp and cutting great on a variety of materials. 
Your gonna like this blade Allen.


----------



## rwm

Where did you buy the Bahco blades? I have been using Starett Die Master and I am not happy with them.
Robert


----------



## ACHiPo

mikey said:


> I think those Wood River casters are Chinese knock offs of the Korean Foot Master and Carrymaster casters. The Korean ones are very good. I have no experience with the Wood River ones ...


Got the casters mounted yesterday.  They work ok, but will look for an opportunity to put one size bigger on, as the lathe is pretty tough to move even though the casters are rated for 1300 lbs and the lathe and bench only weigh about 700 lbs.  They'll do for now, however.


----------



## Silverbullet

Half dozen acorn dies and the die head to use on my lathe , terminal blocks came for my RPC , slow boat from china delivered. A three inch cardinal quick vise in new cond. I hate and love ebay, puting a new vise I didnt need where I could see it. Im a sucker for a nice vise over cheap imports. Im hoping to find a nice mill vise but the good ones cost dear , kurts are nice but out of my reach. At least till I save some or sell some things.


----------



## mikey

ACHiPo said:


> Got the casters mounted yesterday.  They work ok, but will look for an opportunity to put one size bigger on, as the lathe is pretty tough to move even though the casters are rated for 1300 lbs and the lathe and bench only weigh about 700 lbs.  They'll do for now, however.



Keep an eye out for a deal on Carrymaster AC-300's. They move my 800# mill with ease.


----------



## Alan H.

rwm said:


> Where did you buy the Bahco blades? I have been using Starett Die Master and I am not happy with them.
> Robert



Robert, bought the BAHCO Easy Cut here.


----------



## rwm

Thanks! I just ordered one to try out. 
Robert


----------



## dlane

Pic's


----------



## Firestopper

rwm said:


> Where did you buy the Bahco blades? I have been using Starett Die Master and I am not happy with them.
> Robert



I found two on eBay for $60 total delivered to my front door.


----------



## ACHiPo

I picked up a Supercut bi-metal blade f0r $30 yesterday to try.  I started with Starrett blades, and I've been happy so far, but I kinked the first one I installed so wanted a back up.  I paid $25 for the Starretts plus shipping, so probably around $60 for two.

I thought Bahco was owned by Starrett?   Do they make their own blades?


----------



## Alan H.

firestopper said:


> I found two on eBay for $60 total delivered to my front door.


Paco, that was a screaming deal you got.

I looked on ebay for a few weeks without success and decided I better get a spare on hand in case I broke or fouled the one on the machine.


----------



## Alan H.

ACHiPo said:


> I picked up a Supercut bi-metal blade f0r $30 yesterday to try.  I started with Starrett blades, and I've been happy so far, but I kinked the first one I installed so wanted a back up.  I paid $25 for the Starretts plus shipping, so probably around $60 for two.
> 
> I thought Bahco was owned by Starrett?   Do they make their own blades?


Sorry, confused this earlier by saying Starrett owned them.  Not so, it is Snap-On and I think they make their blades in Europe.  Mine is tagged as made in the UK.


----------



## fitterman1

Picked up a set of 23 ER40 metric collets today, secondhand of course. In good nick, some unused and one with the wrapper still on it, all for the princely sum of AU$50.
Just need to clean the dust and a light coat of surface rust from the front face. These things sell for 50 bucks each around here. Came in a box specifically made for them.


----------



## Alan H.

fitterman1 said:


> Picked up a set of 23 ER40 metric collets today, secondhand of course. In good nick, some unused and one with the wrapper still on it, all for the princely sum of AU$50.
> Just need to clean the dust and a light coat of surface rust from the front face. These things sell for 50 bucks each around here. Came in a box specifically made for them.


Nice catch and that should be the "full monty"!


----------



## fitterman1

Hi Alan, yes your right. I already have some imperial er40's and a mt4 holder that I use in the lathe spindle, but this kit was too good to pass up.
I also bought one of these on fleabay, wondering how long it would last.


----------



## Alan H.

Received my MT3 Weldon shank for annular cutters.  Cutters coming next week.


----------



## Alan H.

darkzero said:


> Alan, where did you purchase yours from? I've got some Rotabroaches on the way too but was just going try using my 18N to hold them in the meantime. I would eventually like to get me one of those.


Will, I bought it via Amazon prime.  Here is the link.  I also put the link on the recent rotabroach thread as well. 

I am impressed with the looks of this piece.  I am hopeful it is as good as it looks.  It is the same brand as some folks are ordering from Canada.  The Amazon price is more attractive for a US order.


----------



## darkzero

Thanks Alan, I saw your post in the other thread right after I posted here. I'm going to order me one too. Maybe an R8 one later as well.

Thanks for the feedback also!


----------



## Alan H.

I thought about an R8 Weldon as well but from the other thread on this topic, looks like Paco, Mark and others are using a 3/4" R8 collet with success.  I am going to give the 3/4" R8 collet a try as well.    The R8 Weldon would use up some valuable head room so if the collet works, that is a plus from my perspective.


----------



## darkzero

Alan H said:


> I thought about an R8 Weldon as well but from the other thread on this topic, looks like Paco, Mark and others are using a 3/4" R8 collet with success.  I am going to give the 3/4" R8 collet a try as well.    The R8 Weldon would use up some valuable head room so if the collet works, that is a plus from my perspective.



Good idea. I do have a R8 to 3/4" adapter also. I bought 2 of them  years ago cause I cut one up to use for something, figured it might come in handy one day. I suppose this would be perfect for it as I haven't had a need to use it for anything else yet. I figure the adapter would add even more overhang but if it works that'll save me $60 bucks.

If & when you try it please post some feedback.


----------



## darkzero

Got me a new Italian made hammer for tappy tappy on parts. 








Also got a Starrett indicator points set. Damn these things are pricey but my patience rewarded me again.


----------



## Joncooey

Hey guys.  Picked up a manual hole punch for my little fab shop.   Needs punches/dies.  Looks a lot like a Baileigh model hp160.  Up here in Canada, Busy Bee also sells something similar but the punches/dies are a bit different.  I could use advice on where to source a set.  Also, these look fairly easy to make, I was wondering if anyone had an opinion on steel type to use.  Is 1045 O.K.?  Heard 4140 might be
right.  Appreciate any input.  Jon.


----------



## fitterman1

Cool looking unit. How thick can it go? I reckon 4140 is better, more hardenability and better life.
cheers Alby.


----------



## Joncooey

fitterman1 said:


> Cool looking unit. How thick can it go? I reckon 4140 is better, more hardenability and better life.
> cheers Alby.


It's rated for 3/8 believe it or not.  I put a 1/2"  hole in 1/4 plate without much effort.  Has a 4-5' handle on the thing.


----------



## fitterman1

Thats excellent, now you can make odd shaped dies and punches. This is a very handy unit to have.
Even broaching if your careful. It is similar in principle to an arbor press.
cheers Alby


----------



## Old junk

Swap meet haul


----------



## davidpbest

Alan H said:


> Now have an Eagle Rock knurling set-up.
> View attachment 231621


Alan, I see you bought the same knurl tool I did.   I picked up some additional knurling wheels, and now have versions at 12, 20 and 21 pitch.   I did a spreadsheet as a quick reference on the proper knurling diameter for those pitches which I thought I'd share here - maybe it will be useful to someone.   Attached.


----------



## BGHansen

Joncooey said:


> Hey guys.  Picked up a manual hole punch for my little fab shop.   Needs punches/dies.  Looks a lot like a Baileigh model hp160.  Up here in Canada, Busy Bee also sells something similar but the punches/dies are a bit different.  I could use advice on where to source a set.  Also, these look fairly easy to make, I was wondering if anyone had an opinion on steel type to use.  Is 1045 O.K.?  Heard 4140 might be
> right.  Appreciate any input.  Jon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 232544
> View attachment 232544
> View attachment 232546
> View attachment 232545


Depends on what material you're going to punch.  I've made a number of punches/dies for my Roper Whitney #218 press.  For steel, I go with O-1 drill rod.  Punch to die clearance for plain steel is 20% of material thickness, 25% for stainless.  If you were punching 0.040" plain carbon steel stock, the punch/die clearance should be 0.040" x 20% or 0.008" (for example)

There's a POTD post in that string from me detailing how I made some O-1 punches/dies for a project.  Flame hardened the steel with a torch, quenched in motor oil.  Then tempered on a hot plate.  I've done over 1000 hits using 0.036" 304 stainless with those punches/dies and they're still going strong.

I've made punches/dies for a fiber board material out of 4140 and stainless steel because the diameters were handy.  Probably plain carbon would have worked for the fiber material.

Bruce


----------



## woodchucker

Decided to pull the trigger on an old school vise.  Craigslist.. advertised as a 6" bridgeport, measures 5".. I think 6 would have been too big for my little 8520.
Just oiled it and ran a stone over the jaws, and moveable jaw top so I can write on it.. (short term memory I need to keep track of measurements).


----------



## EmilioG

Received my brand new Etalon dial calipers today. This gage is outstanding! It repeats and is dead on every time. I checked it with my Starrett Webber gage blocks.
It came with the depth gage foot also, in an Etalon case in sealed plastic.  Great caliper. I have an 8" Mitutoyo digimatic which is excellent and I can switch to metric and has data output, but the Etalon is smoother and has better repeat accuracy, IMHO. My first dial caliper. I needed a backup just in case.

I also picked up 3 Kennedy tool chests for $250, one vintage and two new. I needed them. My others were full to the brim.


----------



## hman

Mighty nice price on the Kennedys!  Congrats.


----------



## Rustrp

EmilioG said:


> My others were full to the brim.


Oh, so this is why you were hedging on the annular cutters, you didn't have a drawer for them.


----------



## EmilioG

I still would like to buy a few annular cutters but I would also buy the arbor for them. Much more rigid and solid holder with two shcs and an ejector pin/spring/guide.
YouTube has videos on how they cut and it looks amazing.


----------



## Dan_S

It's not exactly happening today, but my wife and I are in the process of buying a house, so all shop purchases have been put on hold.


----------



## Rustrp

EmilioG said:


> I still would like to buy a few annular cutters but I would also buy the arbor for them. Much more rigid and solid holder with two shcs and an ejector pin/spring/guide.
> YouTube has videos on how they cut and it looks amazing.



I really like how they cut and I think you already know my opinion on the arbor. If you think you need it that's good but the R8 collett is solid enough for the smaller sizes. I think if you push into the sizes larger than 1 1/2" you might get a bite that could cause the shank to twist in the collet but their tooth geometry/design takes this out of the equation. You don't get the same digging or grabbing that you might get with a drill bit which is multiplied using a large drill bit. If you see a good deal on one buy it and use it  in a collett, you won't be disappointed. Point noted; They need good cutting oil/fluid. In one job I did, I cut over 100 9/16" holes in 1/2" HR bar before changing out the cutter to be resharpened.


----------



## EmilioG

The shank, even with two flats on the Hougen 12,000 series cutters is so short. It looks like an accident waiting to happen if I use an R8 smooth round collet.
I'd feel better with the two SHCS holding the two flats rigid in the proper arbor. Just my feeling on this. Besides, I'd be able to use any annular cutter with a Hougen arbor.
Side forces will send an annular cutter flying off an R8 or ruin the work. I won't gamble.


----------



## Rustrp

EmilioG said:


> The shank, even with two flats on the Hougen 12,000 series cutters is so short.


While I agree, my question is what is your concern with using the cutter in a R8 x 3/4" collet? I'm sure you've crashed an end mill, maybe two, that were held in a collet. The flats in the shank of the annular cutter are primarily there because they are used in mag-drills that don't use collets. No matter what device you hold the cutter with, the shank length will be the same so there is no strength gained or lost. 

To make a deep pan or box I prefer to make it in one piece if material allows. If it's too deep for the brake I have to clamp additional punches to get the depth I want if it's possible. In the sheetmetal industry we call this stacking tooling, but I don't do this if it isn't necessary. The farther away we get from the clamping device, or in this case a milling machine spindle, the farther away from accuracy we move.  I'm just offering another angle to view this setup and I have been using annular cutters up to 2 1/2" dia. for 25+ years and I have only crashed  5-6 in the smaller diameters.


----------



## darkzero

I think an annular cutter should be ok in a collet but I haven't tried yet myself. You're not side loading the cutter like an endmill (if used properly). You should just be feeding straight down. If anything you may get slippage with large diameter cutters but you have to run these slow anyway & you can feel if you are feeding to fast.

I got my 1-3/8" x 2" cutter yesterday. My 2" x 3" cutter should be here tomorrow. I'm anxious to try them but unfortunately both my lathe & mill will be occupied for another week.

Also, the MT3 holder I got, the Hougen pilot I have doesn't not fit it. Hole is too small. I need to take it apart anyway to see how long of a pilot works with it.


----------



## EmilioG

The Hougen arbor uses two SHCS on the two flats with the arbor, so this provides more rigidity.
Don't assume I've crashed an end mill please. I never have. Lucky or careful?
Will, if you try your annular cutters with an r8, please let me know. (I see you bought an arbor yourself, good idea.)
Rustrp, I'm glad the r8's worked out for you, (except for those 8 crashes), and maybe I'll try the 3/4" r8/annular cutter set up on a piece of scrap.


----------



## roadie33

I picked up a bunch of these at an auction and am having a hard time finding an arbor to fit.
The center hole is threaded 1/2" x 20. But the pin holes are different widths for each size.
Where do I find an arbor for theses and are they annular cutters?


----------



## scwhite

Steel round plate 
360 lbs


----------



## darkzero

EmilioG said:


> Will, if you try your annular cutters with an r8, please let me know.



I won't be trying with an R8 collet (I don't use them) but I will be trying them with ER40 in the mill.

The MT3 needs a bit of reworking before I use it, just minor things though.


----------



## hman

Went to Home Depot for some lumber today.  I always check the "closeouts" end cap, though they usually just take a very small percentage off.  But today there were several pairs of Knipex "power grip" pliers, 10" size, p/n 86 03 250.  The tag said their normal price was $50 (though I hadn't seen them in the tool section before).  They were selling for $38.06.  Pretty good.  Amazon sells these for $58.24.  https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-86032...ie=UTF8&qid=1493876269&sr=1-7&keywords=knipex

I bought a pair for myself and another for a friend.  Total including tax was $41.15


----------



## bfd

IF you use a hougan cutter in a mill ( annular ) make sure you lock down the cross slide and table any shift will shatter the cutter. don't ask me how I know that.


----------



## ACHiPo

Received my Drill Doctor yesterday and tried it out on a dull 1/2" HSS bit.  Seems to work pretty well and reasonably quickly.  The drill definitely works better!


----------



## pstemari

A bull nose live center,  an extended point live center, and some center and spotting drills from Shars.

Set of 5c collets from QMT.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## Rustrp

EmilioG said:


> The Hougen arbor uses two SHCS on the two flats with the arbor, so this provides more rigidity.
> Don't assume I've crashed an end mill please. I never have. Lucky or careful?
> Will, if you try your annular cutters with an r8, please let me know. (I see you bought an arbor yourself, good idea.)
> Rustrp, I'm glad the r8's worked out for you, (except for those 8 crashes), and maybe I'll try the 3/4" r8/annular cutter set up on a piece of scrap.



It does make one wonder why centuries of machine tools used the taper fit, along with the time it took to make them accurate and precise, when all that was needed was a drilled hole and a couple of set screws. I guess my assumption was based on my thinking that you used your end mills. 

Edit; It seemed this conversation was taking on a specific direction so I thought I would throw my biggest fish in and be done with it.


----------



## Nogoingback

scwhite said:


> Steel round plate
> 360 lbs




Swing set for the kids?


----------



## coolidge




----------



## Rustrp

bfd said:


> IF you use a hougan cutter in a mill ( annular ) make sure you lock down the cross slide and table any shift will shatter the cutter. don't ask me how I know that.



My mill isn't that clapped out. 

I couldn't resist, but your comment is noted. I dial in the location while taking the backlash out and haven't has a problem but that's just a habit. I still lock the table, and usually lock everything I'm not using.


----------



## f350ca

I threw a low bid on this radial drill never expecting to get it, now have to haul it home.





Greg


----------



## davidpbest

I scored this faceplate on eBay - arrived today.   It's a 12" with with T-slots (which is hard to find).   Now I need to adapt it to a D1-4 backplate for my PM1340.   It came nicely packaged in rigid foam and although used, needing a bit of cleanup, it's in terrific condition.   Very happy.


----------



## hman

f350ca said:


> I threw a low bid on this radial drill never expecting to get it, now have to haul it home.


Is this where I'm supposed to say, be careful what you wish for???  Great score!  Congratulations.


----------



## DSaul

roadie33 said:


> I picked up a bunch of these at an auction and am having a hard time finding an arbor to fit.
> The center hole is threaded 1/2" x 20. But the pin holes are different widths for each size.
> Where do I find an arbor for theses and are they annular cutters?
> 
> View attachment 232777
> 
> 
> View attachment 232780
> 
> 
> View attachment 232778



Paragon Machine works makes 3/4" shank arbors for hole saws that would work fine for those cutters.  

http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/frame-building-parts/frame-building-tools/hole-saw-arbors.html


----------



## DaveInMi

roadie33 said:


> I picked up a bunch of these at an auction and am having a hard time finding an arbor to fit.
> The center hole is threaded 1/2" x 20. But the pin holes are different widths for each size.
> Where do I find an arbor for theses and are they annular cutters?



I think the pin holes are there to help extract the disc that might be cut by the cutter. I'll bet the a simple arbor with 1/2" threads to a shoulder would work.


----------



## darkzero

Got me a new hand pump for use on the lathe & mill. Sometimes when changing the oil if I over fill slightly too much both the lathe & mill leak in places it shouldn't. I've been using a cheap old gear oil pump from the auto parts store to pump out excess fluid & it gets messy. This Mighty Vac pump is a bit expensive but it's built very well & works great!







Also finally got me a pair of Knipex 12" Cobra pliers to complete my set. I used the Cobra pliers when I was a mechanic & they never let me down.







Zoro had the best prices on both the pump & the Knipex pliers, got 20% off that & free shipping.


----------



## darkzero

Got my annular cutters & MT3 holder.

I mentioned earlier that the holder had too small of a hole to fit my 2" length pilot. I was going to take the holder apart & fix that but decided to wait since there's not enough room for the 2" & 3" pilots to work anyway. If I ever get some shorter annular cutters with pilots I'll revisit that.

MT3 holder has sharp edges but I'll fix that when the lathe is available. Typical China quality but I'm not complaining. Set screws are the cheapest that China makes. Threw them in the trash & installed some quality flat point set screws. Didn't want to risk them getting stripped & not being able to remove a cutter. My Hougen Rotabroaches fits it fine.

The Rotabroaches I got are 1-3/8" x 2" & 2" x 3". Got them brand new on ebay during a flash sale. I hope they work ok without using the pilots. I plan on only using them in the lathe though. Anxious to try them but my lathe will be occupied for another week or so.


----------



## Old junk

f350ca said:


> I threw a low bid on this radial drill never expecting to get it, now have to haul it home.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greg



Love it.


----------



## Rustrp

darkzero said:


> Got my annular cutters & MT3 holder.
> 
> I mentioned earlier that the holder had too small of a hole to fit my 2" length pilot. I was going to take the holder apart & fix that but decided to wait since there's not enough room for the 2" & 3" pilots to work anyway. If I ever get some shorter annular cutters with pilots I'll revisit that.
> 
> MT3 holder has sharp edges but I'll fix that when the lathe is available. Typical China quality but I'm not complaining. Set screws are the cheapest that China makes. Threw them in the trash & installed some quality flat point set screws. Didn't want to risk them getting stripped & not being able to remove a cutter. My Hougen Rotabroaches fits it fine.
> 
> The Rotabroaches I got are 1-3/8" x 2" & 2" x 3". Got them brand new on ebay during a flash sale. I hope they work ok without using the pilots. I plan on only using them in the lathe though. Anxious to try them but my lathe will be occupied for another week or so.


Nice cutters. One of my many projects is to make an injector when I use these on the mill and of course I see I will need to do something for the lathe also.


----------



## darkzero

Rustrp said:


> Nice cutters. One of my many projects is to make an injector when I use these on the mill and of course I see I will need to do something for the lathe also.



Injector? Or did you mean ejector?

I personally have never used annular cutters before & the ones above are the first that own. I first thought the pilots were just that, drill an appropriate size hole through the workpiece and the pilot acts as a guide. I did some reading on mag drills, now as I understand it, the pilot is not only a pilot but also ejects the core when retracting the cutter after drilling. So instead of drilling a through hole, you just drill a spot hole for the pilot's tip to center on & will push the core out when retracting the cutter.

The latter makes sense cause the MT3 holder I got has a spring loaded disc inside behind a fixed disc with a hole. But as I mentioned, my 2" pilot does not fit through that hole & there is not enough depth inside the MT3 shank to allow full travel for the 2" pilot. So I assume it's only designed for 1" depth pilots or something like that, I have not measured the allowable travel.

And the groove on the pilot is for coolant? They do make holders with coolant ports. Am I understanding this correctly?


----------



## Rustrp

darkzero said:


> Injector? Or did you mean ejector?


Ejector. It's been a long day. 

When I use my mag drill I work to a center punch mark or if I have a lot of holes I set up stops and leave the magnet on. I've never had the quill end piece apart but if the slug doesn't drop out when I retract the cutter out of the hole, I take it up a little farther and it ejects. There's not a lot of pressure on the pilot. All the different brand cutters use different pilots so if I'm missing one I sharpen a drill bit to a point.

I think the one thing to remember on the ejector/pilot is to make sure there's enough depth or travel for the pilot when the slug is pushing it in against the spring setup inside the MT. As you said, the MT is probably set up for 1" deep cutters. You could check to see how much travel there is and just cut a drill bit  or pin to the correct length.

My mag drill quill is hollow (I think there all about the same)  and has a slot in the side so the small reservoir can be filled with oil, which is about an ounce. When the pilot is pushed up off it's seat it allows oil to flow down the groove. I only use it when I'm drilling a lot of holes. It can get messy, especially if the pilot rests on something and you end up with a puddle. I use cutting oil except when drilling stainless, then I use Tapmatic Edge creme.

I haven't used a cutter on the lathe so adding cutting oil is a little different but occasionally if a long chip catches on the tip of a tooth it will slide along without cutting and burn a tooth. This usually happens when I'm interrupting the cut to add oil on thicker material. This is one advantage of the pilot oiler because it's flowing inside and you don't need to stop and oil. I've seen a few photos here with the cutters being used on the lathe so maybe you will get some feedback and pointers.


----------



## darkzero

Thanks for the info on mag drills. I've never seen one used in person.

I think I can live without the pilot pin ejecting the core as I probably won't need to drill multiple holes. I can live with taking the cutter out of the holder & popping the core out manually.

My main concern is keeping the cutter lined up since the ones I have are 2" & 3" length. I hope they don't walk easily. I suppose I still could use the pilot to start the cut, then remove the cutter from the holder, take the pilot out & continue on. Sounds like too much trouble to do so but I guess it would still be quicker than drilling & bore holes that size.

I guess I'll just have to try & found out how it goes soon enough.


----------



## Rustrp

darkzero said:


> My main concern is keeping the cutter lined up since the ones I have are 2" & 3" length. I hope they don't walk easily. I suppose I still could use the pilot to start the cut, then remove the cutter from the holder, take the pilot out & continue on.



I think there's an overlap in relating these cutters to the standard hole saw. The hole saw pilot drill keeps the saw from walking to some degree, but in metal I have found the pilot drill walks around in the center and wobbles the hole larger. I use a solid pin for my hole saws and drill the center prior to using the hole saw. With that said; The pilot's purpose for the mag drill is to center on your mark and as you know it just floats so it really doesn't help with anything like keeping the cutter from walking or on center. I agree with you decisions on no pilot and just pushing the plug out afterwards. I have never had a plug get stuck in the cutter. The pilot really serves no purpose on the lathe or mill unless you use it to help eject the slug. 

You don't get the movement or walk you do with a drill bit, and nothing even close to a hole saw. My experience on the lathe or mill , after spot and center drilling the larger drill bit may pull a little off center, so I gently bump the starting cut. You don't get this with an annular cutter unless something isn't locked down. Everything about an annular cutter or how it's held should probably be viewed the same as we would apply to an end mill, and this is why I promote using the cutter in a collett. The cutter is rigid so any movement will come from what or how it's being held.


----------



## pstemari

Cute little Dormer center drill from Amazon
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Bill Gruby

The long wait for the ebay auction is over I scored a Burgmaster turret drillpress for 175.00. Will post pics when I pick it up.

It was originally listed for 200.00 but no bids. When it relisted at 175.00 I jumped on it. No other bids were made. Probably because it was local pick-up only. He is 3 hours from me.



 "Billy G"


----------



## mksj

Have been wanting a 0.0001" test indicator for years, bid on a few on eCrap, but especially these days decent used ones where almost the same price as new ones. The prices have gone up significantly in the last couple of years. I like the Compac test indicators, they work very smoothly and cost significantly less than the comparable Interapid indicators. They are both made by the same Swiss company, they have differences in the mounting and movement/dial configuration. The Cpmpac's also have an extended range and wider dial markings than other similar test indicators. So with Long Island Indicator having a 20% off sale on these I through in the towel and purchased a Compac 215GA. I like that it has a total range of 0.024" with 0.004" per revolution. Not cheap, but I buy once and less at this point, as I do not expect to purchase another test indicator in my remaining lifetime.

Per the Long Island Indicator blurb that came with the Compac  indicator:
_In the 1950-60's Compac of Geneva, Switzerland, manufactured the best selling indicator and dial bore gage imports in the United States. These models were sold with the name Alina. They were so well built and such favorites of machinists of the time that, even today, we receive these indicators for repair. In Europe the indicators were sold with the name Parvus. In a misguided effort to build a sturdier gauge, the manufacturer changed the models to clinkers that had all the grace of a bread box. These were the short lived IXL series.

Just a few years later, they introduced the current Compac models. They have had minor changes in the past 10 years but nothing that affected the over-all look or performance. The Compac indicator is designed to last: sturdier than the Bestest and less costly than the Interapid. It fits perfectly in-between. They are also marketed in the UK with the name Mercer, and previously in the USA with the name SPI.

Tesa of Renens, Switzerland, is the manufacturer of Compac indicators as well as BesTest, TesaTast and Interapid indicators. Swiss made Compac test indicators are featured in the current Brown & Sharpe and Tesa catalogs._

The indicator came yesterday, and I was finally able to accurately setup my two edge probes. It is very easy now to set the probe ball TIR to under 0.0001" and the repeatability when rotating the the edge probes and checking gauge blocks confirmed that they were indeed dialed in correctly. I have an electronic DROPros touch probe that came with my DRO, but I mostly use a mechanical Haimer which I find to be far more accurate and easier to use.


----------



## hman

That's a very nice looking dial -  very easy to read!


----------



## EmilioG

Nice. The Compac is a superb gage.  They are more expensive to buy and repair than an Interapid but a new Compac will last forever if taken care of.
I may still buy a Compac, new, but I don't like the unibody construction with the plated brass dovetails part of the body.
Congrats!


----------



## Joncooey

Well to quote a phrase that I had heard from another forum that some of us may have heard of, "I've heard of this happening to other guys, but I never thought that it could happen to me."  Picked up a brand new Sanvick Cormarant tool holder.  Grainger sells them for $156.oo + tax; up here in Canada they're $204.00.  Check out the price tag.  I didn't haggle with the guy.


----------



## hman

Goooooood GRIEF!!!  Congratulations!  You've definitely earned a "suck."

Gotta ask ... garage sale, or what???


----------



## Joncooey

hman said:


> Goooooood GRIEF!!!  Congratulations!  You've definitely earned a "suck."
> 
> Gotta ask ... garage sale, or what???



I use a site called KIJIJI; like Craigslist.  'Course, being here in Canada, I met the guy at the local Tim Horton's (Coffee Joint) parking lot.  I thought that maybe I should've told him what it was worth; but...I didn't.  It had been on the site for 3 days, and it looks like, from the tape, he had tried to sell it at a yard sale and didn't have any takers.  Someone else had the chance and I'm not rich; I gave him a couple fivers and he was pleased as could be.  That makes two of us.  At least I didn't try to talk him down; that would've been real low-down, eh?


----------



## hman

Joncooey said:


> ... he was pleased as could be.  That makes two of us.


That's an honest trade by anybody's standard - both parties satisfied.  Congratulations, again!


----------



## wildo

Picked up a six piece set of Kodiak high helix 5-flute end mills which I'm really excited about. Should give me a better surface finish for the tiny stuff I'm doing with spinning tops. It also states that these end mills are better for the more exotic and harder materials because of the reduced chip load, which should reduce work hardening. Pumped to try them out!


----------



## darkzero

Wow, those look nice! I've been looking for some 5 or 6 fluters for milling titanium. Those look like a good choice!


----------



## wildo

Yep! Titanium, Damascus, Timascus, Zirconium (if I get brave) and even cast iron- I think those 5 flute ones should work well! I have these three sets currently, and have been very pleased with all three! The aluminum-specific ones, most notably, cut like buuuuuuuuuttter!

4-Flute Ball Nose Bright- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G5C6VNW
4-Flute AlTiN- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D5TQ8GS
3-Flute ZrN for Aluminum- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G5EWERC

The 5-Flute 45* High Helix Bright are here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L2ANFPO/

Kodiak does sell the 5-flute High Helix with the AlTiN coating and a corner radius, but not as a set. Honestly, had I noticed this I probably would have bought the coated ones and built my own set. http://www.kodiakcuttingtools.com/v...th-45-degree-altin-coated-with-corner-radius/


----------



## darkzero

Speaking of Zirc, I have 1/2" & 5/8" rods sitting here in my bedroom for a few yrs now. Haven't figured out what I want to do with them yet. They're so expensive I keep them safe in my bedroom. Haha, not the real reason but I'm sticking with that story.


----------



## darkzero

I haven't bought me a ratchet in over 15 years. I decided to try one of the latest fine tooth dual 80 ratchets from Snap On. I do have fine tooth Matco ratchets but I just like the feel of Snap On ratchets more. Scored one new on ebay for an excellent price.

Kind of disappointed that they no longer stamp USA on the head anymore & changed the font a bit. Looks kind of cheasier to me than my older 36 tooth Snappys. But that's ok, it doesn't affect performance of course. So far I'm liking it a lot.


----------



## scwhite

I won two sets of Vernier calipers on ebay
8-1/2" an 14-1/2"  Starrett 123 master


----------



## Cobra

I have needed odd sizes in the past for cylinder bores so finally broke down and bought a set of adjustable reamers.
Brings back memories of a much younger me that had to replace the British Leyland TR4 wrist pins with Dodge truck pins because there was no way to afford new pistons.
Guys in the university machine shop in the basement of the science building took pity on the starving student and provided education and assistance.


----------



## hman

Where did you buy them?  I once tried a set from Harbor Fraud - abyssimally bad!  Been "gun shy" ever since.


----------



## f350ca

Finally had a dry day so hauled it home. Much bigger in person than the photo's indicated. The vice has 8 inch jaws and must weight 60 or 80 pounds, think it will be good for the shaper.
Its really dirty, sprayed it down with kerosine, will give it a go with degreaser tomorrow and try the pressure washer.





Greg


----------



## Rustrp

f350ca said:


> Finally had a dry day so hauled it home. Much bigger in person than the photo's indicated. The vice has 8 inch jaws and must weight 60 or 80 pounds, think it will be good for the shaper.
> Its really dirty, sprayed it down with kerosine, will give it a go with degreaser tomorrow and try the pressure washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greg


Compared to some it's pretty clean, and I'll add, it looks like it is in good condition. Ready for some heavy metal.


----------



## Cobra

hman said:


> Where did you buy them?  I once tried a set from Harbor Fraud - abyssimally bad!  Been "gun shy" ever since.



I got them from KBC


----------



## woodchucker

f350ca said:


> Finally had a dry day so hauled it home. Much bigger in person than the photo's indicated. The vice has 8 inch jaws and must weight 60 or 80 pounds, think it will be good for the shaper.
> Its really dirty, sprayed it down with kerosine, will give it a go with degreaser tomorrow and try the pressure washer.
> 
> Greg



What is that, a boring machine, drill press, or something else?


----------



## f350ca

Radial drill press Jeff. The smallest one I've ever seen, couldn't resist bidding on it but never thought I'd get it for what I bid.
After almost a gallon of Super Clean, a lot of scrubbing, scrapping and pressure washing it came clean. Have to say it was dirtier than I even let machines get. The paintwork is in great shape. Came with a Jackobs ball bearing 1/8 to 3/4 chuck.
Used the car hoist to fit it off the trailer but still had to let the air out of the tires to pull the trailer forward.





In its likely resting spot.






Greg


----------



## Rustrp

f350ca said:


> Radial drill press Jeff. The smallest one I've ever seen, couldn't resist bidding on it but never thought I'd get it for what I bid.
> After almost a gallon of Super Clean, a lot of scrubbing, scrapping and pressure washing it came clean. Have to say it was dirtier than I even let machines get. The paintwork is in great shape. Came with a Jackobs ball bearing 1/8 to 3/4 chuck.
> Used the car hoist to fit it off the trailer but still had to let the air out of the tires to pull the trailer forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In its likely resting spot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greg


Really cleaned up nice.


----------



## scwhite

f350ca said:


> Radial drill press Jeff. The smallest one I've ever seen, couldn't resist bidding on it but never thought I'd get it for what I bid.
> After almost a gallon of Super Clean, a lot of scrubbing, scrapping and pressure washing it came clean. Have to say it was dirtier than I even let machines get. The paintwork is in great shape. Came with a Jackobs ball bearing 1/8 to 3/4 chuck.
> Used the car hoist to fit it off the trailer but still had to let the air out of the tires to pull the trailer forward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In its likely resting spot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greg


Very nice drill press


----------



## FOMOGO

That's a real beauty. Shouldn't have any rigidity issues with that one. Cheers, Mike


----------



## chips&more

Got this KO Lee power head today for 10 bucks! Now, all I need is the grinder it goes on!


----------



## Rustrp

chips&more said:


> Got this KO Lee power head today for 10 bucks! Now, all I need is the grinder it goes on!
> View attachment 233381


 Well sneaking up on it is one approach.


----------



## woodchucker

f350ca said:


> Radial drill press Jeff. The smallest one I've ever seen, couldn't resist bidding on it but never thought I'd get it for what I bid.
> After almost a gallon of Super Clean, a lot of scrubbing, scrapping and pressure washing it came clean. Have to say it was dirtier than I even let machines get. The paintwork is in great shape. Came with a Jackobs ball bearing 1/8 to 3/4 chuck.
> Used the car hoist to fit it off the trailer but still had to let the air out of the tires to pull the trailer forward.
> 
> Greg


Nice, looks good, much better pics. I like that vise to hold things. Useful on any drill press. That's way more than  I would need. But judging by your Aligator boat project you certainly have a need for big.  Good luck with that.


----------



## chips&more

Rustrp said:


> Well sneaking up on it is one approach.


I got it at an Estate Sale. Had some tools and things in the garage. And then talk about random! There it was, on the floor with nothing else to be seen that was KO Lee. And nothing else in the garage that said grinder stuff. Very random! I don’t think I can sneak up on a +1000lb grinder. But what the heck, you never know.


----------



## Cavediver

Delivery day!
My first set of screw machine length drill bits (1/16-1/2 by 64ths), 3 QCTP tool holders, a couple of arbors and centers, a few taps and their associated stubby bits, a new tap handle, 10 more HSS blanks, and a few chunks of metal for an upcoming belt grinder build.


----------



## Rustrp

chips&more said:


> I got it at an Estate Sale. Had some tools and things in the garage. And then talk about random! There it was, on the floor with nothing else to be seen that was KO Lee. And nothing else in the garage that said grinder stuff. Very random! I don’t think I can sneak up on a +1000lb grinder. But what the heck, you never know.


Get it one piece at a time, but who knows, that may be what the prior owner had in mind.


----------



## dlane

Singer 66-18 hardly used been in storage 40yrs, drive belt ,bobbin wheel need replaced, dryrot.
Needs cleaning oiling , all else looks good $40.00


----------



## hman

There are several used building materials dealers here in the Phoenix area.  Heard about one I'd not been to before from a friend.  Went there for a quick look about a week ago, just to check out what they had.  I'll be moving this year and might need to equip the new shop with cabinets, etc.  While there, I noticed they had  couple bins that contained small boxes of screws, etc.  I bought a couple that first time, just before they closed for the day.  Turns out they were only 25¢ a box!

So I went back a couple days ago and took the time to dig through several bins, picking out anything that looked like machine screws.  Ended up with 66 boxes/bags.  Grand total of $16.50!

Yesterday I sorted them by size.  Inch sizes on the left (starting with #2), metric on the right (starting with M2.5), and a few boxes of dowel pins in the center.  Most of the fasteners, other than the shoulder screws, are stainless steel.  So with any luck at all, I won't have to visit the hardware store for anything but nuts


----------



## Charles Spencer

I'm always thrilled when I get a good deal on hardware.


----------



## hman

I was mooching around a Goodwill store yesterday, mainly looking for "wall wart" power supplies.  They're getting a bit scarce; heard from an employee that they just pitch most of 'em nowadays.

This little Stanley Handyman H1220A drill caught my eye ... especially because it looked to be in very good condition.  Got it home, wiped the dust off, and saw that it had NO rust anywhere, nearly perfect paint (including the teeth of the drive gear!), and included in the handle was the full set of 8 original drill bits ... again without any rust, and all appeared to be factory sharp.

I'd originally intended to use it on the bench as a handy countersink driver.  But given its pristine condition, I'm wondering if it's just too nice to use.


----------



## FOMOGO

Boy, haven't seen one of those in a long time. Nice find. Might just have to add it to the wall art. Cheers, Mike


----------



## Nogoingback

Found this Etalon 0-25 mm micrometer on eBay for 30 bucks.  Looks nicer than it did in the pics, and is very smooth.  I'll need to get a standard
to check it.


----------



## EmilioG

Nice mic. Etalon, the Cadillac of micrometers.  Did you remove the friction sleeve? The black plastic knurled sleeve.
Also, you don't really need a standard for a 0-1" mic. As long as the spindle isn't shaky and the carbide face are clean., you'll be OK.
Just use the wrench to adjust the thimble to 0 once it's lightly closed and locked.
Etalon makes THE best mechanical mics, IMHO. I own 4 of them.  I thought of buying a metric Etalon.  I would really like a MicroRapid 0-1".
New locks are available for these old Etalons from LIIS, in case yours is loose.


----------



## ddickey

I bought two cheap carbide end mills I plan on destroying in  couple days.


----------



## Nogoingback

EmilioG said:


> Nice mic. Etalon, the Cadillac of micrometers.  Did you remove the friction sleeve? The black plastic knurled sleeve.
> Also, you don't really need a standard for a 0-1" mic. As long as the spindle isn't shaky and the carbide face are clean., you'll be OK.
> Just use the wrench to adjust the thimble to 0 once it's lightly closed and locked.
> Etalon makes THE best mechanical mics, IMHO. I own 4 of them.  I thought of buying a metric Etalon.  I would really like a MicroRapid 0-1".
> New locks are available for these old Etalons from LIIS, in case yours is loose.



Thanks. This one didn't come with a friction sleeve, but I've seen pics of older ones without one, so I don't know if it had one or not.  Spindle seems fine and is extremely
smooth and the faces look good.  It was close to 0 to begin with, but I adjusted it up and now it's right on the money.  I think I did OK on this one. 

If you're looking for a metric Etalon, there are several on eBay right now, including a NOS one with interchangeable anvils, as well as a 0-25 mm MicroRapid.  Not trying to
tempt you or anything...


----------



## davidpbest

Always wanted one of these.


----------



## EmilioG

Nogoingback said:


> Thanks. This one didn't come with a friction sleeve, but I've seen pics of older ones without one, so I don't know if it had one or not.  Spindle seems fine and is extremely
> smooth and the faces look good.  It was close to 0 to begin with, but I adjusted it up and now it's right on the money.  I think I did OK on this one.
> 
> If you're looking for a metric Etalon, there are several on eBay right now, including a NOS one with interchangeable anvils, as well as a 0-25 mm MicroRapid.  Not trying to
> tempt you or anything...



Your Etalon did come with a plastic friction sleeve. They're known to crack and break after a while. I'll look around to see if I have an extra. I have a bunch of Etalon mic spare parts.  The Etalons I've seen on Ebay right now are OK. I'm waiting for a really nice 3-4" and 4-5". The MicroRapid, I prefer inch reading on all of my mics. The anvil set is incomplete.  I purchased all of my Etalons on Ebay, all excellent prices and all are in pristine, like new condition.  If I find an extra sleeve that will fit your mic, I'll send it you.


----------



## Nogoingback

Thanks for the offer Emilio.  If you have one, please PM me.


----------



## stormtaker

This is my new tool, Grizzly knee mill
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


----------



## roadie33

Congrats.
That's a nice Mill.
Better put a screen around it to keep the chips out of the laundry.
Might be painful putting on underwear with chips in them.


----------



## woodchucker

stormtaker said:


> This is my new tool, Grizzly knee mill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


Oh geez it looks awful with all that plastic on it.  

Good luck with it.


----------



## NCjeeper

I picked up this little drill bit off of E-Bay.


----------



## hman

Hmmmmm ... planning to make a soda can cannon from a solid rod?


----------



## Chip Hacket

Got me a HF toolbox to hold my gears, chucks, wrenches and whatever for my HF 8x12 lathe.  Got me some 14 gauge sheet metal from my local sheet metal shop and riveted it to the top for a working surface.  HF didn't have any sheet metal of this gauge and dimension. 

--Chip


----------



## coolidge

This...


----------



## Redmech

Scored a 12-14" Starrett 123 Vernier Caliper off the auction site today. Looks to be in great great shape. No batteries needed.


----------



## NCjeeper

Chip Hacket said:


> Got me a HF toolbox to hold my gears, chucks, wrenches and whatever for my HF 8x12 lathe.  Got me some 14 gauge sheet metal from my local sheet metal shop and riveted it to the top for a working surface.  HF didn't have any sheet metal of this gauge and dimension.
> 
> --Chip
> 
> View attachment 233637


I have two of those boxes. One for the lathe and one for the mill. Both filled with needed tools.


----------



## roadie33

Chip Hacket said:


> Got me a HF toolbox to hold my gears, chucks, wrenches and whatever for my HF 8x12 lathe.  Got me some 14 gauge sheet metal from my local sheet metal shop and riveted it to the top for a working surface.  HF didn't have any sheet metal of this gauge and dimension.
> 
> --Chip
> 
> View attachment 233637



Those are great boxes Chip.
I have 3 of them and they are really good heavy duty boxes for $99.
I filled all 3 of them.
I ended up getting one of these from Home Depot for $598. It is heavy and has 6 heavy duty locking casters and holds everything that was in the other 3, so far.


----------



## FOMOGO

That Husky seems like a great deal for the money. Does it have roller bearing drawer slides? If you bought that in the Snapoff brand it would be ten times that amount. Never could see spending that kind of money for something that uncomplicated. Cheers, Mike


----------



## dlane

Yesterday: Hager tool cutter dimond grinder and 6" belt sander, there both going to be projects


Was thinking it would sharpen end mills , guess it's for lathe tools
Gona try to find a manual for it. Haven't found a mod # yet.


Motor and coolent tank / pump





I'm guessing the right grinding wheel is gone,
 no disk on sander that's ok , gona have to make a tool rest for it tho, and change motor pulley to speed it up some
What is the 5 th pic in Coolidge pics


----------



## coolidge

dlane you connect your dial test indicator in that gadget then chuck it in your mill to dial things in on center, tram a mill, etc. It telescopes in/out for different diameters. I have tried a number of different types of indicator holders, the ones that clamp on the outside of the spindle for example, this is the only one that's rigid, adjusts easy, etc. $73.84 on sale at MSC. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/03994746?rItem=03994746


----------



## Chip Hacket

NCjeeper said:


> I picked up this little drill bit off of E-Bay.


That big lathe you just bought screams for a drill like that. 

--Chip


----------



## NCjeeper

Yep.


----------



## woodchucker

dlane said:


> I'm guessing the right grinding wheel is gone,


What makes you think the right wheel is gone?
Not a great shot of it, but looks like it's workable.


----------



## dlane

Jeff: I don't know but it just looks like the dimonds are gone, seems like aluminum


----------



## woodchucker

dlane said:


> Jeff: I don't know but it just looks like the dimonds are gone, seems like aluminum


Any chance the brown edges are coated, leaving the middle safe?  I know that's a stretch.  Save that wheel, I am sure it will come in handy for something.


----------



## roadie33

FOMOGO said:


> That Husky seems like a great deal for the money. Does it have roller bearing drawer slides? If you bought that in the Snapoff brand it would be ten times that amount. Never could see spending that kind of money for something that uncomplicated. Cheers, Mike



Yes it does, Mike.
They have another one exactly like it that sells for a $100 more that has self closing drawers and built in power strip with USB ports.
I just used a power strip I had for mine, $19.99.


----------



## pstemari

Picked this up for about half-price today. Living a few miles from Jet/Wilton's scratch and dent outlet has its advantages.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## roadie33

pstemari said:


> Picked this up for about half-price today. Living a few miles from Jet/Wilton's scratch and dent outlet has its advantages.
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Nice Vise.


----------



## dlane

pstemari said:


> Picked this up for about half-price today. Living a few miles from Jet/Wilton's scratch and dent outlet has its advantages.
> 
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----------



## ddickey

I just won five new roughing endmills on ebay for $21 shipped! The add says Niagaras and Accupro. I know nothing about Accupro but I know Niagaras are a quality tool.


----------



## darkzero

ddickey said:


> I just won five new roughing endmills on ebay for $21 shipped! The add says Niagaras and Accupro. I know nothing about Accupro but I know Niagaras are a quality tool.



Accupro cutters are good. Accupro stuff can be made by different manufacturers. Accupro is a MSC house brand. Niagara is one of the best.

Sounds like you got a really good deal, $21 is usually the price for just one roughing endmill depending on the size.


----------



## ddickey

Yeah I thought so too.
1-9/16"
2-1/2"
1-5/16
1-1/4"


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## ddickey




----------



## royesses

I purchased this rotary broach holder a couple of months ago, just now getting around to the photo's.






Rotary broach holder by DB Customs. Made in the USA. I purchased it from LMS for $262.00 much less expensive than other brands. It is also available direct from the manufacturers web site. I had intended to make one but when I saw this on LMS I just couldn't resist.The workmanship is top notch and feels like an American made solid tool. I purchased a bearing replacement kit directly from DB customs although I don't think I'll need to replace the bearings in my lifetime. This is the light duty version, they also have a normal duty version. They are great people to deal with and very accommodating to hobbyists. I love buying from a young American start up company and hope they grow and become very well known. I got the R8 to JT33 adapter and the MT3 to JT33 adapter for my mini lathe and mini mill. They are now selling broaches from Rayco, another USA company. The broaches in the photo  are from LMS(China) and From Polygon solutions(USA Made). The wood case I made from plywood scraps I had in the shop, not pretty but does the job. Next chance I get I'll test this out and report back on it.

Roy


Web site:
http://dbcustoms.us/

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?
ProductID=5622&category=

Here's a Youtube video of the product demo:


----------



## hman

That's quite the complete set you've put together!  And the plywood box looks just fine.


----------



## royesses

hman said:


> That's quite the complete set you've put together!  And the plywood box looks just fine.


Thanx John!


----------



## davidpbest

Stocking up on spring sales.


----------



## Redmech

That's quite the haul.


----------



## ddickey

I have that mic.


----------



## royesses

This came UPS today. Shars Aventor 12" digital caliper. They are designed in the USA by Shars and made in China.





It has a large LCD display that I can read without reading glasses. It uses a cr2032 battery that I have lots of and claims a lifetime of 1 year. It remembers the zero position which Shars calls DPS (Definitive Position Sensor) and returns to the last reading when shut off and turned back on. Does instant inch to metric to fraction display change. Aluminum thumb wheel on a plastic trunion.  It is smooth and the jaws come together with no gaps, held up to a light you can not see any light between the jaws. No play on the movable jaw.  If my Mitutoyo 6 inch calipers are a 10 on a scale of 1 to 10 for feel and smooth operation this caliper rates a 9.5. No tight spots through the complete range of 0-12". I checked it with mic standards from 1" to 6" and it read right on the money for each. I used gauge blocks stacked but not wrung for 10" and 12" checks and once again it read right on the money. I ordered it on the Shars Ebay store. It was $67.95 U.S. plus shipping. They shipped it very fast. All in all I am very pleased with this purchase. It is not a Mitutoyo but is excellent for the price.  Any surface irregularities in the photo's are from oil on my fingers. It has a nicely done brushed finish. The back has a fraction to decimal table.

Roy


----------



## EmilioG

I sold my left handed Mitutyo 6" dial height gage, which was perfectly accurate and in mint condition, but I found a right handed 10" shock proof HG
and jumped on it. This 10" gage still had the scriber tip covered and looks brand new. Dead on accurate along it's full range
	

		
			
		

		
	






	

		
			
		

		
	
 and the price was less than what I paid for the 6".
No marks or rust. The dial crystal perfect and not yellowed or scratched.


----------



## woodchucker

$14.95 at Tractor Supply..   
	

		
			
		

		
	



Also bought a benchtop stand with 15 bins for medium sized stuff, also $14.95
Wish I hadn't forgotten my wallet, There was some nice airhose there for either 9.95 or 14.95 can't remember.

Followup: The clamp is great.
The benchtop stand of bins is low quality. The bins are very light plastic. I'm considering returning them. For some they will be ok, but for heavy stuff , no.


----------



## woodchucker

EmilioG said:


> I sold my left handed Mitutyo 6" dial height gage, which was perfectly accurate and in mint conditio


I would have taken that left handed unit, even though I have a Starret Vernier. I am a lefty and didn't know they came in a left handed version. Would be PERFECT.


----------



## barnett

I scored what I think is a cast iron surface plate,  not real sure and a 6" craftsman planer




The plate is 15 x 18. Also scored a Kwik-Way valve grinder,no pics yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## dlane

Tom, all we see is the dreaded red red x, search posting pics using  tapatalk 
Thanks


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## wawoodman

Darn you, Roy, I just ordered one!


----------



## woodchucker

barnett said:


> I scored what I think is a cast iron surface plate, not real sure and a 6" craftsman planer


yep, looks like a cast iron surface plate. I used mine for welding mostly.


----------



## Rustrp

barnett said:


> I scored what I think is a cast iron surface plate,  not real sure and a 6" craftsman planer
> 
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Time to get scraping.


----------



## royesses

wawoodman said:


> Darn you, Roy, I just ordered one!


What did you order?


----------



## hman

I found a local auction site on Craigslist a couple days ago.  The current auction was about to close, so I didn't have time to go there and actually look at the items.  But I bid on a set of Brown & Sharpe telescoping gauges and an inside micrometer set .  I won that evening.  eBay style bidding, and my price was $95 for both.  Adding buyer's premium and sales tax, it came to a total of ~$113.  Picked the items up yesterday. 

Checked the inside mike against my 2" outside mike, and it's right on at 1 ½ and 2".  The mike head itself only moves ½", so there's a ½" spacer you can add or leave off to get the full range (1 ½" to 8 ½", .001" resolution) with just 7 rods.  The telescoping gauges all look great, though some of them seem a bit gritty and one is a bit sticky (gummed up lube?)  Anybody know how to disassemble these for cleaning?

Image is from the auction site, https://alotsalesandauctions.hibid.com


----------



## royesses

A couple of months ago (I think a couple of months - *O*ld *T*imers *D*isease ) I ordered a gear cutter set and 2mm, 3mm, 4mm keyway broaches. The gear cutters are module 1 20° pa made in China and a 22mm arbor for them. $59 for the cutter set and $14 for the arbor. The cutters are correctly marked and decent quality  and the arbor is very well made and finished. I purchased them on Ebay.  The keyway broaches are a Dumont set of 2 and 3mm in a wood box and a 4 mm China broach with Dumont collared bushings in a box made from plywood scraps I had. I purchased The broaches from MSC on a 40% off sale. I guess I'm a tool nut now.








Roy


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## royesses

hman said:


> I found a local auction site on Craigslist a couple days ago.  The current auction was about to close, so I didn't have time to go there and actually look at the items.  But I bid on a set of Brown & Sharpe telescoping gauges and an inside micrometer set .  I won that evening.  eBay style bidding, and my price was $95 for both.  Adding buyer's premium and sales tax, it came to a total of ~$113.  Picked the items up yesterday.
> 
> Checked the inside mike against my 2" outside mike, and it's right on at 1 ½ and 2".  The mike head itself only moves ½", so there's a ½" spacer you can add or leave off to get the full range (1 ½" to 8 ½", .001" resolution) with just 7 rods.  The telescoping gauges all look great, though some of them seem a bit gritty and one is a bit sticky (gummed up lube?)  Anybody know how to disassemble these for cleaning?
> 
> Image is from the auction site, https://alotsalesandauctions.hibid.com
> View attachment 234345




The telescoping gauges I have you unscrew the bottom of the handle and the guts come out the bottom then the anvils slide out. my telescoping gauges are Lyndex brand made in Japan.

Roy


----------



## Silverbullet

Haven't been buying to much lately but I did score a looks new in the box lufkin 0-1 micrometer reads in tenths , in there green color in the box, also ordered a 2 morse to er32 collet holder for my atlas mill. Ill need to make a draw bar if it's metric no biggie. Under fifty for both. Still haven't got here but there paid for.
 Forgot ordered some large diameter shrink tubing in three colors , don't tell the wife oh my


----------



## 4GSR

royesses said:


> A couple of months ago (I think a couple of months - *O*ld *T*imers *D*isease ) I ordered a gear cutter set and 2mm, 3mm, 4mm keyway broaches. The gear cutters are module 1 20° pa made in China and a 22mm arbor for them. $59 for the cutter set and $14 for the arbor. The cutters are correctly marked and decent quality  and the arbor is very well made and finished. I purchased them on Ebay.  The keyway broaches are a Dumont set of 2 and 3mm in a wood box and a 4 mm China broach with Dumont collared bushings in a box made from plywood scraps I had. I purchased The broaches from MSC on a 40% off sale. I guess I'm a tool nut now.
> 
> View attachment 234346
> View attachment 234347
> 
> 
> View attachment 234348
> 
> 
> Roy


Any chance that ebay seller has anymore gear cutter sets available for sale?

BTW-Watched three gear cutters go for almost $120 last night on evilBay.  Crazy!


----------



## royesses

4gsr said:


> Any chance that ebay seller has anymore gear cutter sets available for sale?
> 
> BTW-Watched three gear cutters go for almost $120 last night on evilBay.  Crazy!



Ken,
Check with these guys they are the sellers I used prices have gone up slightly:
http://stores.ebay.com/ouyou2010/_i.html?_nkw=gear+cutter&submit=Search&_sid=1007817649


----------



## darkzero

I actually got these a couple of months ago....

Going against my Will (pun intended), I was going to buy a _set_ of reamers & _import_, 2 criteria that I said I never would do. So at the time, the best price I could find on a 29pc fractional import set was like $130 or something like that. I knew I was going to regret it & kept telling myself to just buy quality ones as I need them. But I was sick of buying then having to wait for it when I needed one. I don't own a lot of reamers as I don't use them a lot.

Then magically a 29pc set of reamers popped up on ebay for $70 buy it now + $6 shipping & it was already in a Huot case rather than the cheap wooden cases all the other import set came in. Ok, cool, I was totally expecting them to be import but when I got them, I was shocked to see that they were a practically brand new set of Alvord Polk USA! Only one looks like it was ever used. This set costs $500-$600 new!


----------



## Nogoingback

Tooling for the Logan:

I've been interested in a Diamond Toolholder, so I finally got one:





Also a used eBay find: a Dorian part off blade holder


----------



## woodchucker

Picked up the stand and test indicator (both Mitutoyo) at a garage sale.
Both for $30..  This will replace my Starrett last word, it also came with three probes. Going to see about relining the case it came in.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

I bought a B&S #2 Dividing Head off eBay. Looking forward to going through it & putting it to use!


----------



## 4GSR

BROCKWOOD said:


> I bought a B&S #2 Dividing Head off eBay. Looking forward to going through it & putting it to use!


Yeah, You got the one with the jack shaft for differential indexing.  Now to find the gears to go with it...
Nice find, especially with the 3-jaw chuck that is on it.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

Definitely a project.  Haven't begun to digest the manual just yet, but envision making divider wheels & gears as needed.  Should be fun!


----------



## benmychree

4gsr said:


> Yeah, You got the one with the jack shaft for differential indexing.  Now to find the gears to go with it...
> Nice find, especially with the 3-jaw chuck that is on it.


I have one just like it for my #2 Brown & Sharpe universal mill; I have all the gear train for differential indexing, which I have used, and also to cut spirals, and have done that numerous times also, also have the short lead attachment for it, which allows cutting spirals  (I think) 10 times shorter, like threads, for instance.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

benmychree said:


> I have one just like it for my #2 Brown & Sharpe universal mill; I have all the gear train for differential indexing, which I have used, and also to cut spirals, and have done that numerous times also, also have the short lead attachment for it, which allows cutting spirals  (I think) 10 times shorter, like threads, for instance.


You might just become my new best friend for reference info!  At some point I will be very interested in learning what all the stack of gears is used for & where they fit.  Are they for the power feed off your mill for spiral cuts only?


----------



## benmychree

The gears that come with the machine for the dividing head are used both to cut spirals and gear for divisions not possible with just the set of plates that come with the dividing head, such as prime numbers, such as 127, the gear needed for a lathe with English lead screw in order to cut metric threads; the extra set of change gears with the short lead attachment is used to cut short leads, shorter than can be cut with the regular set of change gears that comes with a universal milling machine; the attachment is also used to reduce table feeds for such as cutting shapes with the fly cutter with only one cutting edge.
You need to find a copy of Brown & Sharpe's "Practical Treatise on Milling and Milling Machines"   It gives info on nearly everything pertaining to their milling machines, including gearing for spirals, dividing both plain and differential, and nearly anything you could imagine, including engraving divisions on special scales and rules and typical setups of their machines for many operations.
You can contact me at york@napanet.net if you prefer direct contact.
John


----------



## BROCKWOOD

Thanks John!  Just got a copy of the book you suggested.  So easy these days.  This is just the sort of reading I enjoy.  Thanks again!!


----------



## benmychree

HOW DID YOU FIND IT SO QUICKLY?


----------



## roadie33

It is online if you want to read it.

https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=wu.89089665111;view=1up;seq=1


----------



## benmychree

I have several editions of it; bought the first on when I was in apprenticeship, as it was one of the required reference books in out apprentice classes; note the original universal milling machine pictured in the front section of the book; when I visited the factory in North Kingston it (the original first universal machine built) was next to the receptionist's desk!
My mill, built in 1943 is just like the one illustrated on page 14; previously, when I started my own shop in 1973, I had one just like the one on page 9, built about 1906.


----------



## Silverbullet

I found a slotted sleeve , which goes on a tapered mandrel to hold items to turn on a lathe. I don't think the new what it was the had it paired up with a morse taper reducer.  They wanted $10.00 and $3.99 shipping. Made an offer of $6.01  they accepted so ill need to make a tapered mandrel and polish it up . Ill run it on centers and lathe dog drive I want a good one. Those set ups run about $85.00  I got lucky


----------



## davidpbest

I finally broke down and got a Haimer for my mill.   90 percent of the time I use a Royal QC Easy Change system for tooling changes.   My only hesitation getting the Haimer before was that the version I wanted came either in 10mm or 12mm shaft sizes, and I didn't have access to any Royal QC (EasyChange) end mill holders in metric sizes - all that's sold in the US is imperial.   Mark Jacobs turned me on to a Royal dealer in the UK that will export to the US, and the prices are very reasonable compared to what you'd pay for them in the US even if they were available.  
Rotagriponline.com is the UK distributor.   http://rotagriponline.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=173&Itemid=29
It took about 3 weeks to get, but well worth the wait.   

So here's the Royal 12mm QC end mill holder with the new Haimer:




In the mill using the Royal R8 Easy Change master chuck:




And I decided that while I was at it, I'd get the Royal QC ER32 collet chuck so that if I ever run into metric tooling I need to mount, I have a method to do that.




Now my Royal QC tool collection is finally filling out:




If anyone needs Royal products at good prices, give Rotagrip a look.


----------



## T Bredehoft

That is an enviable selection! Makes me wish I hand the need.


----------



## Chip Hacket

I got this little Lufkin square/depth gauge from Tubalcains ebay sale.  It was fairly tarnished but I cleaned it up some.  I am just tickled to death with it.  It fits in the hand very nice.  Anyone know of a good way to clean it up better?


----------



## Charles Spencer

Brasso and scotch brite.  Remember if you can't paint it or polish it, salute it.


----------



## foleda

Yesterday I went to Grizzy's tent sale in Springfield and came home with a few things.


----------



## Bamban

Took advantage of the Aloris 25% off and free shipping, ordered a BXA QCTP and 6 BXA 1 turning holders.


----------



## westsailpat

Nogoingback the Diamond tool holder that you posted a couple of weeks ago , what are you using it for ?
OK never mind I just watched Des's vid .
http://www.eccentricengineering.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=2&Itemid


----------



## Alan H.

Landed a 1" diameter boring bar on ebay thanks to friend who gave me a heads-up.

Received it last week and I am quite pleased with its appearance.  Here is is next to a 1/2" bar for comparison.  It is new old stock and only suffered a bit of storage rash on the box.


----------



## jsh

Not today, but a week ago today. Who in their right mind would have an estate auction on Memorial weekend?
Oh well worked good for me as I had to sit and wait close to four hours for them to get to what I was interested in. They had listed a lathe. It was a train wreck of what looked to be an Atlas or parts of an Atlas. I was looking for tooling and there was a fair bit of it. Also had a real nice older drill press, until the two kids trying to move it dropped it of the dolly and broke the housing!
Got a drawer full of tool bits,holders, Jacobs chucks and keys. 
A couple of coffee cans full of HSS cobalt tool bits and boring bars. 
Another can of carbide stuff. 
Then a half of a table full of stuff
A Starrett indicator set in the box for $6
A big wooden crate full of reamers, I see boring bars?
Then several cans full of drill bits of all sizes and lengths, a lot of them were brand new. 
A pretty good haul for $40 total. 
Made the wait worth it. 
Machinist buddy stopped by to see my loot, figured I got at a bare minimum of $400 worth of stuff, not counting the indicator set. 
I think I will be good on tool bits for a while. 
Now get to using them!
Jeff


----------



## Nogoingback

westsailpat said:


> Nogoingback the Diamond tool holder that you posted a couple of weeks ago , what are you using it for ?
> OK never mind I just watched Des's vid .
> http://www.eccentricengineering.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=2&Itemid




I got interested in one of these when a friend from work offered me one that he wasn't using.  It turns out his was too big for my lathe, but I looked into them a bit anyway and read the reviews I could find.  From what I can tell people seem to like them, so I thought I'd give it a try.  Up to this point I've been using Arther Warner HSS insert tools.


----------



## Tony Wells

John, nice dividing head you ran across. I have a Cinnc version, with gear drive for my #3 mill.  One day I will need to hunt down the gearing and train for it too.

Meanwhile, this doesn't count as an "I bought it", if you know what I mean, but I hauled it home. Has a few bent spots on a couple of the shelves, but nothing that can't be straightened and with a little dark gray paint, it will get a lot of material off the floor.


----------



## Alan H.

These Crawford Collets showed up on my doorstep early this morning.   I ordered them Tuesday afternoon last week from Rotagrip in the UK and they were here at 8:30 a.m. on Monday.

Thanks to a friend who gave me the tip, I now have a nice set of Crawford collets.  They are "new old stock" and you can tell that the boxes are bit weathered.  The collets are in tip top shape and still covered in whatever protective accumpucky they put on them at the factory.  By the way, they are no longer made like many of the good tools of the not so distant past.


----------



## gregc

Slowly collecting some things. Did not have many useful items before deciding I wanted to do more machining.
(A couple micrometers, scales, and protractor was about it other than the common drill bits, etc).

Now I have quite a few taps but no matching dies.


----------



## ddickey

Ordered a Widia -GTD 4-40 spiral fluted tap to replace the two I broke. Lol


----------



## hman

gregc said:


> Slowly collecting some things. Did not have many useful items before deciding I wanted to do more machining.
> (A couple micrometers, scales, and protractor was about it other than the common drill bits, etc).
> Now I have quite a few taps but no matching dies.


I have a goodly number of taps and until recently very few dies.  Haven't really missed them.  I'd suggest finding a source of good quality dies and ordering/buying what you need as you need it.

PS (just for fun) - I've discovered that screw extractors like the ones you have in the lower left of your photo can be used to make tapered holes.  Just turn them "forward," so they'll cut instead of digging in.  They're hardened and sharp enough to cut.  Drill a pilot hole the size of the narrow end of the extractor.  Then be sure to use lots of cutting oil, and back out frequently to remove the chips.  Those shallow flutes load up quickly!


----------



## Silverbullet

I received my 2 morse to Er32 collet , for my atlas horizontal mill and lathe if needed. Next I need the R8  model. Then ill start getting some collets , with the first set in inch sizes . Add metric or others as needed. I have big chunk of 2" x 16" 4140 bar stock to make another arbor for it. I won't be able to Ck the adapter for run out but the machining on it is flawless China made of course $16.99 free ship. Still need a dividing head have a line on used for a $100. If he can bring or I get someone to go get it.


----------



## wawoodman

This showed up on CL this morning, so I made an offer, and he took it. I got there, and carried it to the car, with my back screaming every step of the way. We chatted a while, and he said he had another one that was smaller and lighter (4" instead of 6"). Since I was only buying it to stock the shop with tools until I finally retire from cabinetmaking, I swapped in a heartbeat. And he carried it the big one back to the shop!

Besides, I think it scales better on my Rockwell.


----------



## gregc

And this came from eBay today. 
They were steam engine castings.  However no web site. No simple plans or finished photos.   Guess it's going to be a bit more challenging than expected


----------



## roadie33

gregc said:


> And this came from eBay today.
> They were steam engine castings.  However no web site. No simple plans or finished photos.   Guess it's going to be a bit more challenging than expected



I hate those red X's.
Look like some good castings.
Challenges are good.
Makes you learn different ways to do things.


----------



## roadie33

I just bought some Aluminum from a new site I found and the prices on some of it is cheaper than anywhere else I've found. Especially on T Track.
If purchase is over $100 they have FREE FedEx SHIPPING.

http://www.orangealuminum.com/index.php/


----------



## dlane

gregc said:


> And this came from eBay today.
> They were steam engine castings.  However no web site. No simple plans or finished photos.   Guess it's going to be a bit more challenging than expected


----------



## Bill W.

gregc said:


> And this came from eBay today.
> They were steam engine castings.  However no web site. No simple plans or finished


What's life without challenges?


----------



## Mark_f

I have been wanting one of these ever since my local supplier went out of business. The only blades I can get now have to be ordered on line. I picked this up for $150 and it came with a roll of blade stock.


----------



## easttex

mark_f said:


> I have been wanting one of these ever since my local supplier went out of business. The only blades I can get now have to be ordered on line. I picked this up for $150 and it came with a roll of blade stock.
> View attachment 234984
> View attachment 234985
> View attachment 234986


Forgive me for asking, but what is it?


----------



## Tony Wells

Blade welder for bandsaw blades.


----------



## 4ssss

I  went to Home Depot this morning and bought 2 pcs. of 4 x 4  x 1/4" plywood, and 6   3/4"   x  6" PT pine boards, and  a 10' piece of drain pipe.  I used about a third of the wood.  All the boards and plywood came out of the cull  box they have at the store.  The total for all came out to be a little over $19, and I finally made a storage rack for all the material that I keep for other projects.


----------



## Alan H.

Bought myself a new dust mask.  I produce a lot of metal and sawdust fines and need to protect my lungs!  I have noticed the dust seems to be bothering me more than in the past so I have become far more diligent about dust collection and avoidance.


----------



## kvt

They were steam engine castings.  However no web site. No simple plans or finished photos.   Guess it's going to be a bit more challenging than expected[/QUOTE]

  Did finally get to look at it,   Missing some parts or something besides the instructions.    Would have though that more of it would be cast than just that.  (all the more now you need stuff to cast more parts for it.,   more reasons to buy stuff.)


----------



## ddickey

Ordered myself some lapping compound and Cherry Red. Going to order some wax lubricant in a few minutes.


----------



## Charles Spencer

ddickey said:


> Ordered myself some lapping compound and Cherry Red. Going to order some wax lubricant in a few minutes.



That sounds vaguely erotic.


----------



## BGHansen

4ssss said:


> I  went to Home Depot this morning and bought 2 pcs. of 4 x 4  x 1/4" plywood, and 6   3/4"   x  6" PT pine boards, and  a 10' piece of drain pipe.  I used about a third of the wood.  All the boards and plywood came out of the cull  box they have at the store.  The total for all came out to be a little over $19, and I finally made a storage rack for all the material that I keep for other projects.
> 
> View attachment 234994
> View attachment 234994
> View attachment 234995


Thanks for the idea!  I was contemplating organizing my own rounds and was going to band saw some cardboard tube packing from OnlineMetals for the carriers.  The PVC will last a lot longer.

Bruce


----------



## Alan H.

McMaster and ebay this week - some good steel, telescoping gauges, a saw blade, a dozen reamers, some HSS blanks, some Allen heads, and a small Starrett square.


----------



## woodchucker

Alan H said:


> small Starrett square.


Nice. I have a UNION.. I like the little guy.


----------



## Alan H.

I cleaned the telescoping gauges up a bit in the ultrasonic tank.  They are slick as a whistle now.  Also scrubbed the case up.  Thanks to a friend who gave me a tip on these.  They were a bargain on ebay.


----------



## Groundhog

For no good reason I've been wanting a Starrett 196a back plunger indicator set for awhile now. For some reason I am especially intrigued with the hole attachment.
Finally found one in near perfect condition. $96 including freight. I might have paid a little too much, but I really wanted one with no rust and in super condition. So, I am happy with my purchase (and try not to think about Monk's indicator purchase for $25).


----------



## darkzero

Groundhog said:


> For no good reason I've been wanting a Starrett 196a back plunger indicator set for awhile now. For some reason I am especially intrigued with the hole attachment.
> Finally found one in near perfect condition. $96 including freight. I might have paid a little too much, but I really wanted one with no rust and in super condition. So, I am happy with my purchase (and try not to think about Monk's indicator purchase for $25).
> View attachment 235096



That's not a bad price for that full set in excellent condition. I paid $95 for mine, the exact same set in excellent condition. I think you did good cause I've seen much worse go for more over the years.


----------



## darkzero

Got me a couple of American Int'l Electric Impulse Heat Sealers. I really only wanted the one with the cutter. The other one was an _impulse_ buy.  It was in brand new condition, I sent an offer & the seller accepted, too cheap to pass up.








I already have this model dial indicator which I use quite often. Again, I sent an offer just for the heck of it. Seller accepted. Not bad for $25 shipped. Will keep as a back up since this model is discontinued.







Got me a Power Probe III. My PPII still works perfectly fine but I've been wanting to upgrade to the PPIII with display. The PPIII has been around for a long time & there are newer models but I don't need all the fancy functions that the new ones have. If you work on cars, the Power Probes are invaluable.


----------



## woodchucker

Will , not sure what you are going to use the heat sealer for, but if your collecting tools, you can sure seal them up in bags if not using them long term. put a drop of oil in the mechanism b4 you put it in and consider putting in descicants or rice to keep it dry too. But then you live in CA where the humidity is already low...


----------



## darkzero

woochucker said:


> Will , not sure what you are going to use the heat sealer for, but if your collecting tools, you can sure seal them up in bags if not using them long term. put a drop of oil in the mechanism b4 you put it in and consider putting in descicants or rice to keep it dry too. But then you live in CA where the humidity is already low...



Thanks Jeff, no I didn't get them for bagging/sealing tools. If I did seal them then I wouldn't be able to use them.  Not for anything machining or tool related so I supposed it doesn't belong on this site but they are tools.

But yeah here in Socal luckily I don't have to worry about humidity. But still I have reusable desiccant packs in any drawers that contain my machining related tools. Occasionally I'll get light surface rust on certain thingsafter it rains. But it's nothing that is really concerning & it don't rain much. A quick wipe with oil or scotchbrite takes care of it.


----------



## darkzero

Another ebay flash sale purchase. Got me a beater height gauge today. Well it's not really a beater & it's brand new. I got this one to leave out on the bench/surface plate cause I don't want to keep my other height gauge out all the time. My other height gauge is a larger vernier Mitutoyo that stays in it's wooden case. Kind of a hassle to use when I just want a quick measurement or scribe.

So I got a 6" digital height gauge. It's an import branded M-DRO which is the same brand my lathe DRO is. Only this time I didn't have to order from the UK, M-DRO now has a US distributor which is SRA. I have various SRA products as well so it was surprising to see that they are working together now.

Came with an indicator attachment & I got an extra carbide scriber for it. Base is a bit heavier & larger than I expected but I guess it's not a bad thing. The smaller size & being digital will make it very easy to use. My only concern now is that my Mitu may not get as much love & daylight anymore but I'll try to not let that happen. 

Sorry for the "stock" photo, got surgery on my leg today so I didn't feel like going to the garage to snap photos.


----------



## Tony Wells

Well, not exactly a purchase. More like being at the right place at the right time. Almost complete, for the specified sizes. Needs a anti-rust bath, but they are in pretty good shape.


----------



## hman

darkzero said:


> Sorry for the "stock" photo, got surgery on my leg today so I didn't feel like going to the garage to snap photos.]


Best wishes for a speedy and complete recovery!  Hope you can start enjoying you new height gauge soon.


----------



## davidpbest

M1.7-0.35 Tap.  Anyone know what this is used for?


----------



## darkzero

hman said:


> Best wishes for a speedy and complete recovery!  Hope you can start enjoying you new height gauge soon.



Thank you very much John!


----------



## darkzero

davidpbest said:


> M1.7-0.35 Tap.  Anyone know what this is used for?
> 
> View attachment 235240



Some DTIs use that thread for the contact tips. Not sure what else out there uses that thread. That's a great brand though, don't trust the cheap stuff for size that small!


----------



## BGHansen

darkzero said:


> Another ebay flash sale purchase. Got me a beater height gauge today. Well it's not really a beater & it's brand new. I got this one to leave out on the bench/surface plate cause I don't want to keep my other height gauge out all the time. My other height gauge is a larger vernier Mitutoyo that stays in it's wooden case. Kind of a hassle to use when I just want a quick measurement or scribe.
> 
> So I got a 6" digital height gauge. It's an import branded M-DRO which is the same brand my lathe DRO is. Only this time I didn't have to order from the UK, M-DRO now has a US distributor which is SRA. I have various SRA products as well so it was surprising to see that they are working together now.
> 
> Came with an indicator attachment & I got an extra carbide scriber for it. Base is a bit heavier & larger than I expected but I guess it's not a bad thing. The smaller size & being digital will make it very easy to use. My only concern now is that my Mitu may not get as much love & daylight anymore but I'll try to not let that happen.
> 
> Sorry for the "stock" photo, got surgery on my leg today so I didn't feel like going to the garage to snap photos.
> 
> View attachment 235235


Darkzero,

Curious about what you think of the height gauge, I've been looking at one also.  I see them for under $70 on eBay.  They look like a 6" digital vernier/ mill quill DRO mounted on a base with the scribe.  Should work fine as I trust my Chinese digital calipers.  Thanks for sharing.

Bruce


----------



## NCjeeper

Shars got me for another 200 bucks this week.  Man I need to stay out of their catalog.


----------



## Alan H.

Aloris is having a summer sale.   Factory offering very attractive pricing and free shipping.  Thanks to @Bamban for the tip.


----------



## darkzero

BGHansen said:


> Darkzero,
> 
> Curious about what you think of the height gauge, I've been looking at one also.  I see them for under $70 on eBay.  They look like a 6" digital vernier/ mill quill DRO mounted on a base with the scribe.  Should work fine as I trust my Chinese digital calipers.  Thanks for sharing.
> 
> Bruce



Bruce, ok I'll post in this thread later after I recover, hopefully soon.

But yes, it's similar to a mill quill DRO but it has a few more functions like the digital Mitutoyo height gauges. My Mitu quill DRO only has zero & inch/mm functions.

I choose this one cause the cheaper ones I saw have like a digital caliper DRO. So the display is sideways & there is no fine adjust besides the ones that have a thumbwheel like digital calipers. Even the Starrett 6" is this way, aside from that I don't like Starrett for digital.

The one I got also has a removeable scribe. The others have a permanent fixed scribe.


----------



## darkzero

Got me a Yuasa 6.3" fine pole round magnetic chuck today. Going to use this on the lathe for thin washers & spacers. I'm excited to try it out. Looks like it will clean up nicely.


----------



## Silverbullet

I've had an add on craigslist off and on for a few years in the wanted section. Wanted dividing head with plates and tailstock. Couple days ago guy contacts me says he has one for $100.00 so after his schedule put him in my area he delivered it tonight. Looks to be l.w.  brand with Chuck . Plates he will bring after there found but for the money delivered I'm happy. Now I don't need China for $380.   Now if all the listed stuff sold I'd be much happier. Oh I picked up three old stock new dies in left hand thread 3/8 c and nf  and 5/8 18 , New in the box lufkin in war green 0-1 Mic. Never owned a brand new Mic. Guess this counts as new.
My stupid body gets out of pain I've got tons to do. Come on July 6 th.


----------



## darkzero

NCjeeper said:


> Shars got me for another 200 bucks this week.  Man I need to stay out of their catalog.



Hey you can't leave us in suspense like that! So what did ya get?


----------



## NCjeeper

darkzero said:


> Hey you can't leave us in suspense like that! So what did ya get?


I bought some larger V blocks with clamps and the 12" dual beam height gauge.


----------



## stormtaker

Bill W. said:


> What's life without challenges?


Looks like its time to watch some Tubalcain on youtube

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


----------



## royesses

Just received the new SK 3/8" drive 90 tooth pear head low profile ratchet from Harry J Epstein's. Made in the USA as all SK tools are. feels great in the hand, quality chrome and smooth as fresh snot on a polished doorknob.$57.00 US.  Also joined the SK club. $49.95 got 25% off my first tool order,
	

		
			
		

		
	









	

		
			
		

		
	
 the whole order not just 1 tool, free shipping on all orders and get 1 free socket a month from a list of sockets. 

Roy


----------



## Alan H.

I was out of town this week and when I got home, these ebay snags had shown up in the mail.   A large set of Butterfield taper shank spiral reamers, a regular shank reamer to fill in for a missing one in the large set's sequence, two 64th under drills for 3/4" and 1" finished holes, some inserts from Bulgaria, and some center drills.  The reamers are all new but with storage rash except two and they had only light use, maybe one hole or two.


----------



## 428Bird

Purchased my first mill. It's a 1977 Bridgeport with true-trace installed, but has the manual controls. I've already pulled the hydraulics as I plan on retrofitting electric feeds at a later date. The head is a 2hp 2J and it's going to need spindle bearings. The rest of the machine seems okay. Here's a pic with her sitting next to the C16 Holbrook.

Britt Bettell

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## 428Bird

Hope it shows up...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## dlane

428Bird said:


> Hope it shows up...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## Bill W.

428Bird said:


> Hope it shows up...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


Congratulations... Looks like a worthy project.
Did you find it locally or have to go get it?
Bill W.

edit:  I think I did not send my reply to the OP... sorry


----------



## 428Bird

Bill W. said:


> Congratulations... Looks like a worthy project.
> Did you find it locally or have to go get it?
> Bill W.
> 
> edit:  I think I did not send my reply to the OP... sorry


Found it local, about 30 miles away. It was bought by the seller at an estate sale in Louisiana and drug over here but never hooked up. The table and saddle seem pretty tight and you can still see scrape marks on the knee and saddle ways. Moving it was an adventure. 

Unfortunately it didn't come with any tooling or a vice, but the price was right. I picked it up for about a third of what other bridgeports go for in Houston.

Britt Bettell 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## Alan H.

Britt, would love to see a photo of it when you get off Tapatalk and to a laptop or workstation.  All I see on my laptop are those famous Tapatalk red X's!


----------



## dlane

X2^


----------



## 428Bird

Done as requested - I just may uninstall tapatalk. I've read all the how-to threads and it never seems to work for me.

I started a new thread in the Bridgeport forum.

http://hobby-machinist.com/threads/new-to-me-1977-bridgeport-true-trace.59913/

Britt Bettell


----------



## cvairwerks

Bought this two weeks ago and finally got it unloaded yesterday. Niagara 142, originally line shaft powered, but since converted to standalone power.


----------



## Alittlerusty

16"x6' southbend followed me home today


----------



## ACHiPo

Alittlerusty said:


> View attachment 236092
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 16"x6' southbend followed me home today


AND it's on WHEELS!!!


----------



## hman

Well ... how else could it have followed him home?


----------



## jsh

On line only auction.  
The had a Milwaukee NIB porta band listed and I had been looking for one. One thing led to another. A lot of junk but just enough to make me keep looking for machinist tools and tooling. Finally in the last couple of lockers I found a stash in a tin can with oily rags. Starret, brown and sharp,McGrath several 1" micrometers, a couple of vernier calipers and a couple of 2" micrometers. Got both lockers full of stuff for $20. 
Also got the portaband and the table for less than what the port band cost+ 9 blades. Also got a couple of real nice palmgren vices and another vice for $25
Jeff


----------



## dlane

Pic's


----------



## BROCKWOOD

I much prefer reading about rescuing the old gear, but sometimes I have to buy modern tools to aid in restoring the old equipment.  Mostly Shars in this order.  I find it odd that I had to order from 3 supply houses to get what I wanted.  Slitting saws are from Grizzly - but not the arbor.  I was able to get boring bars & a BXA QCTP from Shars as well as the Clamping Kit.  The screw jacks will be a welcome addition. My mill table measured out to 11/16" T nuts being just right.  I like that 5/8 x 11 is what the studs are - just seams a common size as used on my mill.


----------



## BGHansen

Recent eBay wins showed up the same day.  Isn't it great to get multiple boxes in the mail!  Roper Whitney #5 junior hand punch missing the 3/32" die, plastisol handle and depth gauge - $24 including shipping.  Eight brand new Thurston slitting saws for $18 including shipping.  Impulse buy on a Accuromote depth gauge for $13 including shipping.  Although it's plastic, it seems to repeat OK, will be for rough checks only until I get some confidence in plastic over my Mitutoyo depth mic.

Bruce


----------



## alloy

Found an estate sale today.  I usually don't go to tool sales if they don't have pics in the ad showing what they have.  But it said machinist sale with lathes and mills so I took a chance.

I got these all this for $32o.  At first he wanted $500 for the Volstro head and $500 for the dividing head.  I told him we were too far apart.  Offered him $250 for both.

So I went to find my girlfriend and while I was waiting for her he came back and said $300 for the two large items.  He threw in the little rotaty table, clamp set, and spin fixture for $20.

I'm not even sure what the Volstro head is used for, but they go for $400 to $800 on Ebay.

So I took a chance.  I'll probably sell the Volstro head.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

I do believe you have scored very well!  Guess it all depends on the dividing head as your ace. The Volstro part is interesting & perhaps your most valuable part - just never heard of them. I'm sure someone will see the value in getting it & make it worth your investment to get it put back in service!


----------



## Silverbullet

Rough times for my tool addiction, but I did find 35 sets of cutters for my die head . Grand total $6.50 free shipping too. YUPP I'm on freeze no maka no money no spenda no money. But couldn't let these go each set should be $10 or so.


----------



## Silverbullet

alloy said:


> Found an estate sale today.  I usually don't go to tool sales if they don't have pics in the ad showing what they have.  But it said machinist sale with lathes and mills so I took a chance.
> 
> I got these all this for $32o.  At first he wanted $500 for the Volstro head and $500 for the dividing head.  I told him we were too far apart.  Offered him $250 for both.
> 
> So I went to find my girlfriend and while I was waiting for her he came back and said $300 for the two large items.  He threw in the little rotaty table, clamp set, and spin fixture for $20.
> 
> I'm not even sure what the Volstro head is used for, but they go for $400 to $800 on Ebay.
> 
> So I took a chance.  I'll probably sell the Volstro head.
> 
> View attachment 236266
> View attachment 236267


Soon as you sell it , you'll find a job to use it on. YUPP never find another


----------



## alloy

My deal just got sweeter.

When I was at the sale the guy was into flatheads that passed away.  I do a lot of transmission work for flathead owners and I called a customer I sold a trans to yesterday.  He high tailed it over and dropped about $2k on parts.  I think he got 4 engines and several rear axles and a couple of transmission.   I was talking to the son of the guy that died and told him what I do and I gave him one of my cards. He was pretty happy I called my customer.  Said he owed me one. 

When I got home just after I posted he called and said he found the tail stock for the dividing head.  Yeah it was a 15 mile drive one way to get it in 100 degree heat, but I have a really good air conditioner in my new to me hot rod SUV I bought.

Feeling pretty good about what I spent.  I even told my customer that all the twenties you gave me yesterday for the trans this guy has now.  He just laughed at me.  





Silverbullet said:


> Soon as you sell it , you'll find a job to use it on. YUPP never find another



Yeah you are probably right.  Found this vid on youtube.


----------



## Lordbeezer

Picked some stuff up..couple switch boxes from closed concrete company.big box of m3 drill bits.lathe tooling.yesterday saw ad on cl for two boxes of large gears in wooden boxes.one box can still read brown& sharpe..got both..both dividing heads already sold..one was laying on pallet outside covered in surface rust..my little dividing head doesn't use gears..oh yea..bought 12"x6 Seneca falls lathe..later model.no pictures yet..sorry to ramble on.also got vfd.new in box.1963.model vs-225..gears and vfd been in building over 35 years


----------



## ACHiPo

QuickJack 5000.  Hopefully it will work on my Cobra and other cars.  Seems to get pretty good reviews.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/r56-hatch-talk-2007/303288-quickjack-5000-review.html

Seems better than a floor jack and jack stands?


----------



## francist

This evening's adventure....

.
	

		
			
		

		
	






Going down?



Spruce makes good railway tracks, Egyptian style....



Resting comfortably, and the house already has that "new baby smell"....





-frank


----------



## woodchucker

Bought two Dayton Branded (KENNEDY ) lowers for 100 a piece. Gotta clean out the mouse **** P I S S (is invalid here) , and prime and paint the rust on 2 drawers from the mice. The other one is in good shape. No keys.. but I don't need them. Really heavy duty.  I'm going to need help from a friend to get these down to the basement.


----------



## Silverbullet

woochucker said:


> Bought two Dayton Branded (KENNEDY ) lowers for 100 a piece. Gotta clean out the mouse **** P I S S (is invalid here) , and prime and paint the rust on 2 drawers from the mice. The other one is in good shape. No keys.. but I don't need them. Really heavy duty.  I'm going to need help from a friend to get these down to the basement.
> View attachment 236694


You did good , wish I could get around better . I'd have one to mount my atlas mill on . Most of the lowers are flimsy , the good ones like these usually are over priced. I'm jealous well a little bit. Good luck mouse's need homes too. I usually feed them these little green blocks and they don't come back.


----------



## ddickey

I bought a brand spanking new 0"-1" Etalon mic today. 260 series model 71.115899.
$50!
 Oh yeah you read it right.


----------



## A618fan2

alloy said:


> Found an estate sale today.  I usually don't go to tool sales if they don't have pics in the ad showing what they have.  But it said machinist sale with lathes and mills so I took a chance.
> 
> I got these all this for $32o.  At first he wanted $500 for the Volstro head and $500 for the dividing head.  I told him we were too far apart.  Offered him $250 for both.
> 
> So I went to find my girlfriend and while I was waiting for her he came back and said $300 for the two large items.  He threw in the little rotaty table, clamp set, and spin fixture for $20.
> 
> I'm not even sure what the Volstro head is used for, but they go for $400 to $800 on Ebay.
> 
> So I took a chance.  I'll probably sell the Volstro head.
> 
> View attachment 236266
> View attachment 236267


That'd make me wanna go out and buy a Bridgeport!  Nice gets. 

John


----------



## mikey

ddickey said:


> I bought a brand spanking new 0"-1" Etalon mic today. 260 series model 71.115899.
> $50!
> Oh yeah you read it right.



Nice! That one has the older style markings which is easier to read.


----------



## roadie33

Went down to Branson Missouri for vacation last week and stopped by Grizzly in Springfield to pick up a few things.
18" x 18" x 3" Granite Surface Plate, Grade B.  Didn't want to pay shipping on it so I waited until vacation to pick it up.
A 115 piece HSS Drill Index, a couple of Mag bases, a slitting saw arbor and a wheel for the grinder. Total was $201
Now I need to make a table to hold the Surface plate.


----------



## Lordbeezer

Is silver dollar city still in Branson.used to ride my motorcycle there from little rock when home on leave from army in early 70's..picked up a 30 ton otc press.needs a little work..also got a Rockwell-Delta 31-710 6 X 48 belt sander..missing parts but has good bones..it also needs some love..


----------



## roadie33

It's still there. But costs way to much to go. We had the kids and 2 grand kids with us. 6 people would have cost over $300.
 $62 Adult, $60 for senior and $51 for kids, that's each ticket.
We got show tickets thru our Vacation Club for free so we got to see 5 different shows. 
We liked the Haygoods and the Hamner Variety is pretty good also.


----------



## middle.road

We managed to hit a really decent estate sale / auction this weekend.
Scored a circa 1951 Miller Falls Drill sharpening jig:





and a decent Yale Chain Hoist. I'm trying to get a 'smallish' one to use for the mill vise, lathe chucks, and the RoTab. I can't seem to toss them around as I was once able to . . . This one is too big also...




and then the "pièce de résistance" - my wife scored this during the auction:
I'm out of room in the shop so I'm not sure what the devil I'm going to do with it.
Sure is a neat small horizontal mill. Runs real smooth considering the motor arrangement.





Also scored and old Darra Table saw and a Oxy/Acetylene set.


----------



## Lordbeezer

Picked up some stuff today..don't know if  I can use any of it but price wasn't too bad.


----------



## LarryTheKing

Super excited about this Pratt & Whitney Model C from HGR
At 3000lbs, it will definitely be the largest piece of equipment in the shop.

Just need to safely haul it home now...


----------



## Charles Spencer

Beautiful lathe.


----------



## Silverbullet

Please don't tell my wife , I done been bad, the bad eBay place had a bunch of gear cutters starting at .99  but haven't got any at that price. So far I'm up to $60.00 for 4 -5 cutters 10 DP and degree 141/2 . A few in 12 DP and 16 DP .still on auction. I hate to make her mad but American Made cutters are hard to find. Then these two cast iron WHEELED casters new for $9.99 plus shipping. Oh my the poos gonna hit when the casters get here.


----------



## Silverbullet

LarryTheKing said:


> Super excited about this Pratt & Whitney Model C from HGR
> At 3000lbs, it will definitely be the largest piece of equipment in the shop.
> 
> Just need to safely haul it home now...
> 
> View attachment 237169
> View attachment 237170
> View attachment 237171


That's a beautiful machine , top shelf company . Best of luck with her.


----------



## woodchucker

Silverbullet said:


> Please don't tell my wife , I done been bad, the bad eBay place had a bunch of gear cutters starting at .99  but haven't got any at that price. So far I'm up to $60.00 for 4 -5 cutters 10 DP and degree 141/2 . A few in 12 DP and 16 DP .still on auction. I hate to make her mad but American Made cutters are hard to find. Then these two cast iron WHEELED casters new for $9.99 plus shipping. Oh my the poos gonna hit when the casters get here.



I think you need to go to toolaholics anonymous..   Let me give you my address to ship the stuff too. You can pick them up when you are ready... not too far a drive. Then she would never know you got them.


----------



## Ken from ontario

deleted


----------



## CluelessNewB

Recent local auction gets, all for less than $20!  

Starrett 268 C V-blocks + clamp with original box
Brown & Sharpe V-block + clamp
Pair of smaller no name V-blocks
Angle plate


----------



## Silverbullet

woochucker said:


> I think you need to go to toolaholics anonymous..   Let me give you my address to ship the stuff too. You can pick them up when you are ready... not too far a drive. Then she would never know you got them.


Hey when I get better I hope to go with you to that junkyard where you got the mill and Hardinage lathe. At least I think it was you but I've been wrong before. The wife thinks I'm gonna die but I'm not , I'm invincible , massive blood clots didn't do it in 2009 . This back operations a walk in the park. Four times in 09 they had me at deaths door not this time. I floated away once and came back to more pain then anyone should ever know. Dying is to easy.


----------



## woodchucker

Silverbullet said:


> Hey when I get better I hope to go with you to that junkyard where you got the mill and Hardinage lathe. At least I think it was you but I've been wrong before. The wife thinks I'm gonna die but I'm not , I'm invincible , massive blood clots didn't do it in 2009 . This back operations a walk in the park. Four times in 09 they had me at deaths door not this time. I floated away once and came back to more pain then anyone should ever know. Dying is to easy.


it wasn't me, but I'll join you on that trip ... when you going to have the operation?


----------



## Silverbullet

woochucker said:


> it wasn't me, but I'll join you on that trip ... when you going to have the operation?


Waiting on the surgeon for all the preadmitance cks, and I hope he just tells me to go to Jefferson  , see him on Aug 3 , waiting on them we could have another child. Last September I started jumping thru hoops to get this far. Therapy epidural shots.


----------



## woodchucker

Silverbullet said:


> Waiting on the surgeon for all the preadmitance cks, and I hope he just tells me to go to Jefferson  , see him on Aug 3 , waiting on them we could have another child. Last September I started jumping thru hoops to get this far. Therapy epidural shots.


I was just talking to my friend about epidural shots. I thought they were short term (like for child birth), he told me there are epidurals that can last a long time.  I hope you get it done soon and get out of pain.


----------



## darkzero

Finally fully recovered from my surgeries. But being out of commission just gave me more time to spend money. So I'm just now getting around to post what came in during that time.


Ebay score, practically brand new 1" Mitu micrometer. I've always wanted an all satin chrome micrometer.







Ebay, 4" & 6" Mitu straight edges.






Ebay flash sale 70 new Korloy inserts. With the sale, came out to $1.24 per insert & that's including shipping!






Headstock MT center adapter from Z Live Center. I never knew they started selling these. They claim .0002" runout & that's exactly what I measured. The one that came with my lathe wasn't very nice & more importantly it has .003" runout. They first sent me a standard MT5-MT3 sleeve, told me to just keep it & sent me out the correct part.






2" Mitu dial indicator Not sure why but I was obsessed at replacing my generic import 2" DI although I haven't used it ever since I got a DRO. Purchased brand new from a 3rd party Amazon seller for cheaper than what they sell for used on ebay & my brother got himself a 2" import DI now.






Another ebay flash sale. MT5 test bar.











Wen bench grinder stands. Just cheap import but not too bad. Needs some minor mods to be more rigid like I want but for just over $25 ea shipped I can't complain. I purchased 2 of them. Better than the ones sold at HF.


----------



## woodchucker

Geez, I must have missed when  you posted that you were in for surgery. 
Which one is the one you are using the short one? If it is, the short one, question, will that reduce the stick out on your center out the spindle?  My MT3 centers stick so far out only the dogs with very long legs reach the dog drive plate. I was wondering if a sleeve w/o a back would move it back further..

NICE HAUL..



darkzero said:


> Headstock MT center adapter from Z Live Center. I never knew they started selling these. They claim .0002" runout & that's exactly what I measured. The one that came with my lathe wasn't very nice & more importantly it has .003" runout. They first sent me a standard MT5-MT3 sleeve, told me to just keep it & sent me out the correct part.


----------



## darkzero

woochucker said:


> Geez, I must have missed when  you posted that you were in for surgery.
> Which one is the one you are using the short one? If it is, the short one, question, will that reduce the stick out on your center out the spindle?  My MT3 centers stick so far out only the dogs with very long legs reach the dog drive plate. I was wondering if a sleeve w/o a back would move it back further..
> 
> NICE HAUL..



Thanks. Yeah I didn't really "announce" it anywhere, I think I only mentioned it in a post somewhere like once or something.

Yes it's the short one which are meant for headstock/spindle use. I have no use for the standard larger sleeve that they sent me by accident. I have not tried it but I already know it will stick out too far. I'll probably sell it on ebay some day.

Years ago I had a bright idea of just using a MT5 center in my spindle instead of the headstock center adapter. I quickly found out why these headstock adapters exist. The MT5 stuck out way to far to be used with my drive plate & off the shelf dogs.

I can't find the original post but it looks like I did talk about it again here in this very thread. Post #192


----------



## Silverbullet

woochucker said:


> I was just talking to my friend about epidural shots. I thought they were short term (like for child birth), he told me there are epidurals that can last a long time.  I hope you get it done soon and get out of pain.


The epidural shots did nothing for pain.


----------



## ddickey

woochucker said:


> Which one is the one you are using the short one? If it is, the short one, question, will that reduce the stick out on your center out the spindle?  My MT3 centers stick so far out only the dogs with very long legs reach the dog drive plate. I was wondering if a sleeve w/o a back would move it back further..
> NICE HAUL..


 Did you mean MT5 centers?


----------



## woodchucker

ddickey said:


> Did you mean MT5 centers?


His MT5, my MT3.. just looking for info on a sleeve adapter w/o a back or tang to it.


----------



## woodchucker

Just curious, did anyone find any DEALS on Amazon today for PRIME Day related to machining?  Related to anything?


----------



## foleda

woochucker said:


> Just curious, did anyone find any DEALS on Amazon today for PRIME Day related to machining?  Related to anything?



I ordered a LED strip light kit to replace the last of the fluorescent tubes in my shop.

http://a.co/a8wOF0r


----------



## darkzero

woochucker said:


> Just curious, did anyone find any DEALS on Amazon today for PRIME Day related to machining?  Related to anything?



Not me. Everytime I look at Prime deals I don't really find anything. Once I bought something thinking it was a good deal. 3 weeks later that same item was sold for less than what I paid on Prime day.

But while talking about Amazon, those Wen bench grinder stands are back in stock this morning for $24.76 free shipping for Prime members.

My brother sent me this last night, I thought it was pretty funny.


----------



## woodchucker

just read the details, not really that hot on ebay either. and just checked one of the items... bleh.


----------



## woodchucker

darkzero said:


> Thanks. Yeah I didn't really "announce" it anywhere, I think I only mentioned it in a post somewhere like once or something.
> 
> Yes it's the short one which are meant for headstock/spindle use. I have no use for the standard larger sleeve that they sent me by accident. I have not tried it but I already know it will stick out too far. I'll probably sell it on ebay some day.
> 
> Years ago I had a bright idea of just using a MT5 center in my spindle instead of the headstock center adapter. I quickly found out why these headstock adapters exist. The MT5 stuck out way to far to be used with my drive plate & off the shelf dogs.
> 
> I can't find the original post but it looks like I did talk about it again here in this very thread. Post #192


good info. your mt5 doesn't appear   stick out nearly as far as my mt3 from the plate, unless it's just a scale thing , since that mt5 must be really big.
But yea, that's the info I was looking for. So I should do a sleeve then and use an mt2.
thanks... good info.


----------



## MozamPete

darkzero said:


>



OK I'm intrigued, what is the complex looking toy behind the grinder stand?


----------



## CluelessNewB

MozamPete said:


> OK I'm intrigued, what is the complex looking toy behind the grinder stand?



Burgmaster turret drill I think.


----------



## MonkMan

Bought a EVOSAW 380 steel cutting chop saw. Good cutting range for the stuff I will do. Also got the aluminum blade. 
No fluids to deal with. 
	

		
			
		

		
	







	

		
			
		

		
	
 It came with ear plugs for a good reason!


----------



## Buffalo20

I didn't buy any machines or tooling, but did make a purchase offer on a 1959 Chevy El Camino.....


----------



## Alan H.

Buffalo20 said:


> I didn't buy any machines or tooling, but did make a purchase offer on a 1959 Chevy El Camino.....


No evidence?  We need a photo!


----------



## Buffalo20

Alan H said:


> No evidence?  We need a photo!



truck is in Delaware, I'm in NY, bought it based on friend's recommendation and 3 somewhat fuzzy phone pictures. According to reports, body very solid, no rust, needs drivetrain, paint and TLC. Will post pics on arrival.


----------



## darkzero

MozamPete said:


> OK I'm intrigued, what is the complex looking toy behind the grinder stand?



Yes, it's a Burgmaster Turret Drill Press.


----------



## Silverbullet

YUPP I been bad but made a  out super good. Few days ago I won a pile of drill chucks , vise handle, morse taper attachments for drills, Italy made Jacob's Albrecht style 3/8" drill , 11N super all need parts but fixable. But the best a 5C nose piece for the head stock of my logan , needs a little polishing is all. It was upside down in the picture but I took a chance for $20.00 total with the shipping. I've been trying to find and buy one for years most run up to a hundred to buy used . Happy CRIPPLE today . But mom will fix that when the bill comes. 
My visiting Dr came today , I'm staying healthy , she wants sleep study even tho I use oxygen at night , my levels of oxygen at night go down , sleep apnea she thinks. I always new how to slow down my heart rate , use to mess with drs when they listened. 
Funny things can be done with concentration.. studied how snipers and Indians could control there body. Grew up wanting to be the outdoorsman of old.


----------



## NCjeeper

I gave E-bay some love. Ordered a metric 5c collet set, scored a nice 0-1 Starrett blade mic, a like new 0-1" Federal DTI for 6 bucks and also some made in Japan (not China) NOS thread measuring wires.


----------



## BGHansen

Not a purchase, just some horse-trading with a buddy whose a retired tool & die maker in CT.  Don't remember what I sent him a year or two ago, but he was cleaning out one of his tool boxes and found these parallel machine files (die filer files).  Big grin on my face when the package showed up unexpectedly!

Bruce


----------



## 34_40

Friday I managed to "acquire" a bunch of gear cutters that a local shop was clearing off.  They had sold off their gear cutting machine, ( it was built in 1912!  His Dad purchased it from the Atlas Tack Co. in Fairhaven MA when they were closing the doors.) as there was less and less call for that job and they moved into some newer vertical millers.  There's gotta be maybe 50 or even 75 pieces, complete with an inch of dust/dirt.  So I'll spend today cleaning and going through them, hope to do an inventory too. 
And then yesterday the wife wanted to go to one of the local "craft fairs"..  not my cup of tea but gotta keep peace in the house.  She didn't find anything to bring home from there so she says let's hit a couple yard sales on the way home.  I'm game, never know what you'll find right??  Long story short I "find" a Craftsman 12" bandsaw.  So I brought that home as well! 

I'll snap some pics for ya'll and put'em up tonite.


----------



## Buffalo20

I picked up a set of titanium coated left-hand drill bits, from the tool whores at the annual John Deere Expo, in Canandaigua, NY. 

I was very tempted to buy a 1946 John Deere model LA, but resisted, the JD is local, so if I do decide later, it's still possible.

I suppose to go this afternoon to look at a Bridgeport slotting head, for the mill.

I bought on Friday,  one of the Evolution brand carbide bladedchop saws, like the one MonkMan showed.


It's been an expense couple of months.


----------



## 34_40

34_40 said:


> I'll snap some pics for ya'll and put'em up tonite.



I didn't get much time for myself, my parents dropped by so there went the afternoon.  Was a good visit tho'.  Here's some pics of the "haul".. LOL..
Still more washing / cleaning to go!


----------



## Bamban

Picked up a 3 inch Starrett travel dial indicator. Perfect for my Jet 1024


----------



## Buffalo20

I opened the saw box, took a serious look at the base and boxed it back up and the saw will be returned on Monday. There is nothing wrong with the saw, but the base does not offer, any convent way to fasten it to the table. I may end up with the saw again, but I want to look a little further. I obviously could modify the base,  to make it rigid to the table, but as saw cost, I'm hesitant to hack up a tool right out of the box. If the saw become the only viable option, I will modify it in a heartbeat.


----------



## 34_40

34_40 said:


> Still more washing / cleaning to go!



And I'm still washing/cleaning..  the piles are getting bigger!  What I'm calling zero on the left ( cause I can't identify exactly yet) to #8 on the right.  I'd say my guesstimate as to the total number of pieces was way off.


----------



## T Bredehoft

You're in the gear making business now, whether  you want to be or not.


----------



## roadie33

That was a good haul 34_40


----------



## pstemari

34_40 said:


> And I'm still washing/cleaning..  the piles are getting bigger!  What I'm calling zero on the left ( cause I can't identify exactly yet) to #8 on the right. ...



That's a heck of a haul. New those would be thousands of dollars.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## 34_40

Thanks for all the replies.  I'm about to head over to the shop to continue cleaning more cutters.  I am absolutely amazed at all the pieces I brought home.  I haven't counted them all yet but if theres a hundred of them then I paid 2 dollars for each one!  I need to figure out how to protect them from rusting also. I'm thinking I'll rub some grease on'em at a minimum.  After I finally get them all washed, then I want to inventory exactly what I've got,  there are some that have info that I just don't understand...  most have the number then the pitch, but some have "different" info..  Once I get it all inventoried, I'll ask the group for help.

More to come!  Thanks Again.


----------



## rrjohnso2000

Oil them and wrap in parchment/waxed paper. You will curse yourself if you use grease.


----------



## Groundhog

Maybe invest in some VCI paper or bags (vapor corrosion inhibitor)? One source is https://www.uline.com/Grp_89/VCI-Products?pricode=WO612&AdKeyword=vci paper&AdMatchtype=e&gclid=CjwKCAjwqcHLBRAqEiwA-j4AyHt_nWBmpeOJFZ9A8Cyc7Mvm4VZMHdwuGW3L59X191AKWYmNNyiquxoCCnwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


----------



## 34_40

great tips! Thanks Guys..


----------



## jocat54

Not really today-ordered these LED replacement tubes last week https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7HAC6Z/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&th=1
and installed them today. Wow what a difference--might need some sunglasses in the shop now
I like them so much I ordered 18 more tubes to do the whole shop area.


----------



## Groundhog

jocat54 said:


> Not really today-ordered these LED replacement tubes last week
> and installed them today. Wow what a difference--might need some sunglasses in the shop now.


I want some for my shop too. Just have to save a few $ first. Good to hear that they work good. Thanks.


----------



## wawoodman

Are they straight replacements, or do you have to change the sockets and/or the ballasts?


----------



## jocat54

wawoodman said:


> Are they straight replacements, or do you have to change the sockets and/or the ballasts?





You have to bypass/remove ballast with these, really simple job. 6 two tube lights took just over an hour to do and that was drinking coffee to.
Oh yeah you have to have non shunted tombstones (sockets)--mine are all old t12 fixtures so they are non shunted. (all t12 fixtures use non shunted)


----------



## roadie33

Most of them just get power from one end. Remove the Ballast and wire nut one end and connect the other end wires to power.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited a flea market, usually there is good stuff this time of year, did managed to find this machinist clamp and this 19mm drill with MT2 to MT3 reducer, both need little clean up but ware at a good price.


----------



## wawoodman

Thanks, John and Mike R. (I'm a Mike R., too!)

I'll wait until the 4 ft. T8's I got a few years back go south, I guess. The major lamps are 96" and they last damn near forever.


----------



## Superburban

Home Depot has the Philips brand 4' T8 led lamps, that don't need the lamp rewired. Just under $7 a piece.


----------



## mmcmdl

I bought out an entire shop over the weekend . Lots of wood and metal shop items . Lathes , saws , sanders , drill presses , planers , tool boxes , tooling galore . I only needed a few pieces but ended up buying it all . The gentleman who owned it was 95 years old and was going into a nursing home and selling his house . He had a few estate sales and no one seemed interested in the shop stuff . So in a way I helped him out I guess , but now , what to do with it all . There are truck loads of beautiful woods of all varieties in there also .


----------



## MonkMan

Great to see a shop pass on and not get trashed. I wish I had heard about that sale. I'm right around the corner.


----------



## mmcmdl

MonkMan , I'm 5 minutes from you . Metal or wood over there ?


----------



## MonkMan

Metal, just starting out....


----------



## mmcmdl

Hey . We have to hook up ! PM sent !


----------



## Zathros

Bought à tread cutting plate holder for the tailstock yesterday
	

		
			
		

		
	






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----------



## GoceKU

Nice tool Zathros, i built this one some time back, works perfectly.


----------



## Zathros

GoceKU said:


> Nice tool Zathros, i built this one some time back, works perfectly.
> View attachment 238348
> View attachment 238349



Got something like that too à while back.
Were only in morseconus 2 and My tailstock has MC1 so I Worked it down to the MC1 myself. 





The one Bought yesterday is only for 25mm. Have to make à adapter for the 20mm platjes myself. Not that difficult. And the other one has the larger adapters tja Will fit the 25mm up to 35mm plates.
Not that my lathe is that strong for harder material than aluminium but Good enough.

When harder materials need à tread I use the tools for that in the right gearbox setting.
Work with 6xxx 7xxx aluminium and stainless steel and titanium often.
Making bicycle parts mostly and handy tools for My lathe/milling set.




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----------



## GoceKU

I work with much bigger pieces, my die holder holds 55, 45, 38, 30, 25 mm thread dies.My tailstock is MT5.


----------



## Zathros

Most threading i'll do is under 1mm à thread. Like bottom brackets 38mm diameter but Very fine threads. Your machine is definately larger and stronger than mine. I have only à 10"x 4" small one just about 0.5KW engine. Good enough tho for the bicycle parts.
I hope to buy à 15"x5" Some day. About the largest size I can place in my Tiny workshop.



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----------



## GoceKU

Wow 10"x 4" that a very small lathe and explains why you are buying this type of tools, instead making them, my machine shop is only 2,3 x 3,9 meters, less them 9 m2 and i have an 1k62 in it, you can see my lathe in the link below, its has 11kw motor:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/new-member-from-kumanovo-macedonia-europe.60652/


----------



## Zathros

GoceKU said:


> Wow 10"x 4" that a very small lathe and explains why you are buying this type of tools, instead making them, my machine shop is only 2,3 x 3,9 meters, less them 9 m2 and i have an 1k62 in it, you can see my lathe in the link below, its has 11kw motor:
> http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/new-member-from-kumanovo-macedonia-europe.60652/



Some tools I make myself Some buy in à webshop or wherever they can do me à Good buy. Or to much effort to make My own.

My shop is about 2.3m x 2m.
So it's à continously Used every day. Don't have to Walk far for My tools tho. LOL
Everything is within armlenght reach.
So I might have the tinyest machine shop of all here If you would see What I have here one could call me à tool geek tho.
One desk is in the middle No wheels.
One on the right(blue) I can pull out and work on it, mostly metal works.
The one on the left of me carries all bike and car tools and has wheels too so I can pull it out. At My back I have à small welding an hard/soft soldering car.
It also has à large vertical compressor 50liters capacity and at the entrance à car with all My bicycle tools.
Almost Everything is on wheels exept My main work desk.

There are Some pics somewere on the forum but Hey why not à few more.







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----------



## dlane

Nothing , to much stuff already


----------



## Groundhog

dlane said:


> Nothing , to much stuff already


That minor detail should not prevent you from accumulating more stuff - it has never stopped me!


----------



## royesses

Got a Brown and Sharpe Bestest 7031-3 from Ebay $69.00 US. The auction was buy it now. The lady said she does not know what it is, how it works or if it works so  listed As-Is. I took a chance since she is honest about it. It turned out to be in excellent condition and is smooth as silk.




Roy


----------



## westsailpat

Nice score Roy , and a wood case too !


----------



## royesses

westsailpat said:


> Nice score Roy , and a wood case too !


Thanx! my first decent score this decade!

Roy


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited a tool market, there is the usually cheap china stuff, but did managed to find this clamp, german depth micrometer and an MT2 to B16 chuck shank i have a spare chuck that i can put to use with this taper.


----------



## hman

Nice clamp ... but I think you got short-changed a bit on the length of the screw


----------



## GoceKU

It looks to be factory i can always add shim if needed, i liked it because of the knoch for holding round pieces.


----------



## Zathros

Those clamps are mostly Used to clamp something on à workbench with à thick surface or edge.


Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk Pro


----------



## woodchucker

royesses said:


> Got a Brown and Sharpe Bestest 7031-3 from Ebay $69.00 US. The auction was buy it now. The lady said she does not know what it is, how it works or if it works so  listed As-Is. I took a chance since she is honest about it. It turned out to be in excellent condition and is smooth as silk.
> View attachment 238394
> View attachment 238395
> 
> 
> Roy


Nice .

But here's some info about what she said.
Many say that so that you can't return the item. Since they don't know if it works, you have been warned.
So, you would lose in a claim, since you were told.
It's pretty simple really.  
I would never buy from some people who use this all the time, yet, that's all they sell is tooling. This one guy knows, but he won't tell you anything.


----------



## Ken from ontario

Drove 5 hours yesterday to bring home this heavy (over 120 lbs) Kalamazoo bandsaw, it is as others mentioned in this thread  a much better quality than the HF or similar bandsaws, topped up the gear oil , cleaned out the wire brushes, then cut a piece of 2"x 2" aluminum to test it, this saw after over 40 years of use still purrs and cuts 90° as it should.and it's all metal, couldn't find a plastic part anywhere in this saw, even the on/off switch is metal.


----------



## MonkMan

Mill roller Cabinet - found this at Lowe's on Saturday. Fits all my mill tooli
	

		
			
		

		
	




	

		
			
		

		
	
 ng and needs. cheap too boot!


----------



## wawoodman

Your shop is entirely too clean!


----------



## MonkMan

correction - the home depot


----------



## woodchucker

Ken from ontario said:


> Drove 5 hours yesterday to bring home this heavy (over 120 lbs) Kalamazoo bandsaw, it is as others mentioned in this thread  a much better quality than the HF or similar bandsaws, topped up the gear oil , cleaned out the wire brushes, the cut a piece of 2"x 2" aluminum to test it, this saw after over 40 years of use still purrs and cuts 90° as it should.and it's all metal, couldn't find a plastic part anywhere in this saw, even the on/off switch is metal.
> 
> 
> View attachment 238747
> View attachment 238748


BTW YOU SUCK!!!!


----------



## Zathros

woochucker said:


> BTW YOU SUCK!!!!



Did you mean "you chuck" LOL



Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Mark_f

It was like Christmas today. I picked up a 12" Starret level in like new condition for $50 . And my $24 boring head came today also. I will machine the shank for the boring head.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

I received an NMTB 50 7/8" horizontal bar.  The metal is not too hard to add a keyway & I'll have to make spacers as well.  Now, I can use import gear cutters with my dividing head.


----------



## Charles Spencer

After hinting around and not getting it for Christmas or my birthday I bought a boombox that plays MP3s.  It also has a radio and plays CDs and tapes.  Haven't tried it out yet but I at least know that it will fit where the old one went.


----------



## Ken from ontario

I could use one like that, still have a few cassette tapes,ahh the eighties.


----------



## Charles Spencer

Ken from ontario said:


> I could use one like that, still have a few cassette tapes,ahh the eighties.



That's why I picked this one.  I have been listening to my old tapes in the shop on a somewhat older boombox.  Curiously, the USB port is in the cassette door.

I tried it out.  It works and I know that I'll have to change the USB sticks way less often than tapes.  I got it from Amazon, ordered on Tuesday and received it Wednesday.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T3GR9XI/


----------



## GoceKU

I know most of the lathes and mills are quiet, so you can listen to music, any advice for me, my lathe has straight cut gears and 11KW motor, sounds like a plane when running over 100 dB ?


----------



## WoodBee

GoceKU said:


> I know most of the lathes and mills are quiet, so you can listen to music, any advice for me, my lathe has straight cut gears and 11KW motor, sounds like a plane when running over 100 dB ?


A combination ear defenders and headphones! Given your machine you need ear protection anyway. I have seen them (ear defenders) with connections for a MP3 player. I have also seen little boxes that connect wireless to a audio set and can be connected to headphones if you don't want to use a portable player.
Peter


----------



## Groundhog

GoceKU said:


> I know most of the lathes and mills are quiet, so you can listen to music, any advice for me, my lathe has straight cut gears and 11KW motor, sounds like a plane when running over 100 dB ?


At the drag races I use ear buds for the track-side radio and cover those with shooting muffs (ear defenders).


----------



## GoceKU

Yeah my hearing is not the best, as a young guy i've run too many loud exhausts and straight pipes so i really should do something if i want to hear at all when i become old.


----------



## T Bredehoft

I'd sooner listen to the music of the cutter. Nothing personal, just MHO.


----------



## Charles Spencer

T Bredehoft said:


> I'd sooner listen to the music of the cutter. Nothing personal, just MHO.



I can understand that, but it's really not that good on keeping up with the baseball game.  Besides that, for every minute I have a machine running I have 3-5 more that I'm getting ready, etc.  I'm not a production shop guy.


----------



## Bamban

Did not buy, gifted to me.

Yesterday I picked the shooting gear I loaned for a couple of kids, 11 and 13, to use. They are moving to a different city and could not participate any longer in any of our training sessions. Our program loses.

When I arrived at their grandfather's place he informed me that he sold his property and pretty much emptied and sold off his machine shop business, keeping a Lagun mill, and Standard Modern lathe and a CNC mill just for his personal use. 

On one of the remaining work tables he pointed out some stuff that I may be able to use. It was like Christmas in Aug. He gave me a Kurt Power Drawbar for Bridgeport, an Aloris BXA QCTP, R8 collet rack and some ER collects.

My SBL 13 came with a Shars BXA, which works real well, but it looks like it will be replaced with this one or I may swap the Aloris AXA in my 1236, and pass down the AXA on the 1024, which has a HESS QCTP now. I need to buy the tee bolt from Aloris, 50+ bucks kind of suck, might just make one. Have not measured whether the Shars tee bolt would fit the Aloris or not.

The power drawbar will serve me well, with my bum right shoulder it is a task to move past my head, much less wrenching the manual draw bar. The Kurt did not come with an air switch, need to research what make and model to use.


----------



## pstemari

Some small drills for the Servo drill press from hattyepstein.com. #31-#60, w triples of the standard tap and clearance sizes, plus fractionals from 3/64”–1/8" and an adorable little set of #61–#80 in a tiny Huot index. I forgot just how small a #80 is.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## ddickey

Pawn shop find.
I paid $250 for everything you see. It all looks to be perfect shape.
Did I get a good deal or not really?


----------



## pstemari

Nice find!!!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## hman

Congratulations, Bamban!  I'm happy for you - especially at hearing how the power drawbar will help ease your shoulder.

ddickey, that looks like a VERY good bargain - lots of very good "real" tools and instruments, not the boxful of worn out sockets and end wrenches you usually find in a pawn shop tool box.


----------



## GoceKU

Today my protractor arrived after 3 months, its a cheap china one, but is surprisingly good, thickness is about 2 mm i was expecting 0,5 mm garbage, it should serve me until i get a better one.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited flea/tool market, first thing i got is couple of CNMG inserts, then i bought this nice sheet metal hammer, than i've seen this big clamp, really heavy duty and big after little negotiation i got it at a reasonable price, also found those stamp letters, and just as i was leaving i found this Rohm B16 3-16mm drill keyless chuck, in nice shape just little stuck, it was fairly cheap so i got it and already got ti to move with little heat and a set of pliers, the two rusty socket joints i bought for the drill press project.


----------



## pstemari

Bunch of odds and ends: wheels and points for the tool post grinder, some bristle discs, spillmasters, hex and Torx wrenches, and a silicon carbide wheel for the bench grinder.
	

		
			
		

		
	




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## Lordbeezer

Not really a tool but it kinda is..wife gave me  a thick hardback book for my 65th birthday today.was like oh  hell..don't need another book..David Gingery's 7 series metal working shop..looks like a lot of knowledge with a lot of reading to do..I did need another book.maybe she wants me to build tools instead of buying junk and fixing it up..she did good..


----------



## francist

These arrived in the mail for me today. Two little Starrett No. 54 hold downs. I've been keeping my eye out for some for quite a while, but lots of times the ones that listed were pretty pricey. Finally spied these two 4" long ones a couple weeks ago and scooped them. Gave them a quick try in the shaper vise and they work pretty good. Now if I could only determine what prompted me to seek out the 4" ones when the width of my vise jaws is actually 5 inches! Grrrr!

-frank


----------



## Lordbeezer

Picked up a themac j3 tool post grinder.took apart and cleaned..put new cord on and made nut for compound.now can get rid of my dunmore..also a atlas bench grinder..


----------



## Old junk

Love the atlas.


----------



## Lordbeezer

It's heavy for its size.gonna put in bath this winter.repaint.but first gonna put new stones on it try it out.it spins awhile after its turned off..couldn't pass it up for 20.00


----------



## Old junk

Great price


----------



## Lordbeezer

Themac might have been better..40.00


----------



## ACHiPo

Lordbeezer said:


> View attachment 239652
> View attachment 239653
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picked up a themac j3 tool post grinder.took apart and cleaned..put new cord on and made nut for compound.now can get rid of my dunmore..also a atlas bench grinder..


What don't you like about the Dunmore tool post grinder?


----------



## Lordbeezer

That's a good question.i like it just fine.quick belt.pulley changes.runs smoothly.adjustable height.good power.always thought it looked too big on my 11" Sheldon..and it's a small dunmore.don't need a tp grinder very often but nice to have when I do.hell,I'm hope the themac does as good..your question made me go hmmm.thanks


----------



## GoceKU

Yesterday i made a live centre for a friend and that got me thinking i only have one if it breaks i can't even finish what i'm making, my tailstock is MT5 so i was looking for MT5 but only found MT4 and i bought it also found this used MT1 live centre it was cheap got it also, and finally found this mill 40 taper with carbide insert cutter, i don't own a mill but at that price could not leave it.


----------



## ACHiPo

Lordbeezer said:


> That's a good question.i like it just fine.quick belt.pulley changes.runs smoothly.adjustable height.good power.always thought it looked too big on my 11" Sheldon..and it's a small dunmore.don't need a tp grinder very often but nice to have when I do.hell,I'm hope the themac does as good..your question made me go hmmm.thanks


No rationalization needed.  Just asking cuz I'm thinking I might need one and you may have one extra!


----------



## bss1

I have been looking for an indexer or spacer in the 4" to 6" size range for a while. I saw an add for a 6" spacer. When I went to view the spacer, it turned out to be a machine shop GOB sale. I bought the spacer along with several other items. The spacer ended up being 8". It's really too big but I figured I can use it until I find a suitable smaller replacement, which I hope occurs soon as this thing is a real beast.  It came with a three jaw chuck, 5 indexing plates, a back plate, and a fixturing table. The seller said it was a Yuasa but I have my doubts as i can't find any identifying marks.  It's in pretty good condition. 




I also purchased a 5c indexer which is a Yuasa Rapid Index fixture 550-005. 




Lastly, I picked up a few small items including a Jacobs 14N drill chuck and a Criterion Boring head DBL 202




The Jacobs chuck is in real nice condition, while the boring head is a little rough but functional. 

I plan to use the spacer to make a spider for my PM 1340 GT lathe and the boring head for enlarging the opening in the gear cover.  I have not used a boring head before and am not sure if this one is of the appropriate size for this operation.  

At any rate, I'm not sure I really needed any of this stuff but I just couldn't walk away. . 


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## bss1

I would like to add a small 3 jaw to the Yuasa Rapid Indexer. Anyone know of a source of an economically priced piece that would fit? It would have to be in the 5" to 6" range with a 2.36" bore. 


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## 4GSR

I'm close  by if you decide to sell that 8" super spacer!  Wish I had a smaller one to offer in trade.


----------



## bss1

I will definitely let you know when I'm ready to pass the spacer on. It's really too big for my machine. As soon as I get around to finishing my spider project, it may be time for a new home.


----------



## NCjeeper

I have been busy on E-bay. I bought a nice nearly new 24" Starrett rule.  A set of thread files. A larger battery and some new cases for my Gopro. Some 5c square collets. A led light with a mag base for the bandsaw. A Phase 2 coaxe indicator. And lastly an exacto razor knive set. It was like Christmas. I was getting packages everyday in the mail.


----------



## Lordbeezer

Picked up some Rawls straight 3 flute drill bits and holders..made in England..can't find any info on goggle.do see same brand listed as concrete bits but these are different..


----------



## Lordbeezer

Forget to post pictures


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## Zathros

Lordbeezer said:


> View attachment 239831
> View attachment 239830
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Forget to post pictures



Hmm I have few of those hiding around they were from My grandfather. And me is 52. So you can imagine how old they are.



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## Lordbeezer

If figured they were older.retired machinist friend said he thinks they are for drilling cast iron but he's not sure.any ideas.i'm gonna chuck one up in drill press and see what it will poke a hole in


----------



## turnitupper

Lordbeezer said:


> If figured they were older.retired machinist friend said he thinks they are for drilling cast iron but he's not sure.any ideas.i'm gonna chuck one up in drill press and see what it will poke a hole in


Those are for putting holes in masonry to fit plugs for screws. Back in the middle ages when I was an apprentice, we used them when there was no power handy.
To use, place pointy end on wall and belt the other end with hammer while twisting the tool. Very handy if you needed only a couple of holes and didn't want to waste time running an extension lead.
Those tools look unused, as mine have the mandatory mushroom heads on the handles.  A good tool for deforming the threads on the undersides of tee nuts to stop you jacking a piece out of your mill table.
John.
P.S Let us know if they will drill cast iron.


----------



## Lordbeezer

Thanks for info.that makes sense.yes I think all is unused.will let you know what it will and or not poke a hole in..gotta try it.


----------



## Silverbullet

I bought angle iron , 2 1 1/2" x 11' and 2 2"x 14'  heavy angle . Craigslist special $25.00. Wish I could find a thermac  like that for $40. Even a duemore


----------



## Lordbeezer

Good deal on iron..guy wanted 50..kinda felt like a ass talking him down to 40 but it paid for gas..was advertised as a pole grinder.whatever the hell that is.


----------



## Lordbeezer

It came from New Jersey.maybe you know what a pole grinder is ..


----------



## Zathros

turnitupper said:


> Those are for putting holes in masonry to fit plugs for screws. Back in the middle ages when I was an apprentice, we used them when there was no power handy.
> To use, place pointy end on wall and belt the other end with hammer while twisting the tool. Very handy if you needed only a couple of holes and didn't want to waste time running an extension lead.
> Those tools look unused, as mine have the mandatory mushroom heads on the handles.  A good tool for deforming the threads on the undersides of tee nuts to stop you jacking a piece out of your mill table.
> John.
> P.S Let us know if they will drill cast iron.



Only thing about it I knew that they were indeed Used for concrete here. Never saw one using them since the latter 20/30 years other more handy tools are Used for that work. My father said they were Used to drive the holes and wall plugs from à brand called Rawl plugs here in europe. Mine are made in GB or England by stanly tools and Rawl 

View attachment 239873

Like these I just digged up in à dark corner of My micro workshop.



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## Zathros

Maybe funny to see also, in the "dig" came across à Very old RPM meter. Russian manufacturer. I use à digital one à long time now but suddenly saw it in the storage also.
It belonged to My grandpa who was à gunssmith with the local police force here





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## Charles Spencer

Lordbeezer said:


> It came from New Jersey.maybe you know what a pole grinder is ..


----------



## NCjeeper

Its been so wet this summer I ordered a dehumidifier for the shop. I don't need my stuff starting to rust.  We are expecting more rain this weekend.


----------



## Lordbeezer

It's so wet here in wake forest  frogs sing us to sleep every night..mushrooms growing in yard.raining now..


----------



## Zathros

Rain does not hide here either. We are Used to high moist conditions tho not so much rain as previous years. Have passive moist removers everywere I stock up metal tools.


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## Bamban

Saw a Royal low end live center advertised for 175 OBO on eBay, got it for 100


----------



## GoceKU

100$ for a live centre, is that the going rate, i bought my MT4 brand new for 10 euros they usually go for 15-20 euros here.


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## 34_40

Not a purchase but I did get these from my In-Laws,  not shown is 1 of those triangular drill indexes marked Morse.


----------



## BGHansen

GoceKU said:


> 100$ for a live centre, is that the going rate, i bought my MT4 brand new for 10 euros they usually go for 15-20 euros here.


The Royal live centers are probably the very top of the line.  Here's an ad from Zoro tools for a new one of the same model.

Bruce


----------



## Zathros

GoceKU said:


> 100$ for a live centre, is that the going rate, i bought my MT4 brand new for 10 euros they usually go for 15-20 euros here.



20-60-75 eur depends om the bearing setup. How many and What kind or how they are setup of the bearings used. There are à various set ups possable.
Quality of the type of iron is also Very differend in the lower end.
Chromed bearings are the cheapest but If you take ceramic and also have 1 or 2 disc bearings Well 100 is cheap then.


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## GoceKU

I don't even look at the china soft steel tools, i'm buying only heavy duty live centers, i've bought only once medium duty live centre, and it broke on first use, never again.


----------



## Buffalo20

I bought more 1/2" aluminum plate for the shop, (2) pieces 12" x 24", (2) pieces 16" x 32", and (11) pieces  of various small pieces (like 5" x 10" and smaller).


----------



## Bamban

GoceKU said:


> I don't even look at the china soft steel tools, i'm buying only heavy duty live centers, i've bought only once medium duty live centre, and it broke on first use, never again.



They call this a medium duty, here is the factory spec, one of the very few out there in this line of products made in the USA.


----------



## Charles Spencer

A new hot water heater.


----------



## T Bredehoft

One gross of ($0.03 ea) Finger Cots. I do a fair amount of super gluing, wiping it with my fingers. these I can peel off instead of letting it wear off. Once the propeller hinges are wrapped with 15 (times 4) threads the threads are dusted with baking soda then smeared with slow acting super glue to bind them to the prop and each other.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited couple of tool markets and bought couple of things, first i bought this chain block, the chain was off it and rusty so i bought just the block i'll buy a new quality chain later when i need it, next thing i found was this old oil can, it is in decent condition and is big enough in size that i don't need to refill it every week, then i came across this collet wrench, little rough but still usable, i have the smallest sizes, this one should come in useful soon, and lastly i found this big die handle, only suffice rust, the lock screws move, i'll clean it up an may need to make couple more starting guides for it to have a complete set for big threading dies, not a bad score of a sunday.


----------



## Zathros

GoceKU said:


> Today i visited couple of tool markets and bought couple of things, first i bought this chain block, the chain was off it and rusty so i bought just the block i'll buy a new quality chain later when i need it, next thing i found was this old oil can, it is in decent condition and is big enough in size that i don't need to refill it every week, then i came across this collet wrench, little rough but still usable, i have the smallest sizes, this one should come in useful soon, and lastly i found this big die handle, only suffice rust, the lock screws move, i'll clean it up an may need to make couple more starting guides for it to have a complete set for big threading dies, not a bad score of a sunday.
> View attachment 240054
> View attachment 240055
> View attachment 240056
> View attachment 240053



HA got exactly the same oilcan, belonged to My father once and now given it to My son it is about 30 odd Some years old now and never failed.


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## GoceKU

I bought it from an old german guy, who barely spoke some serbian, no macedonian, no english, had to use my hands to make sure he understood me, i plan to clean it  and use it for general oiling on my lathe.


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## Zathros

GoceKU said:


> I bought it from an old german guy, who barely spoke some serbian, no macedonian, no english, had to use my hands to make sure he understood me, i plan to clean it  and use it for general oiling on my lathe.
> View attachment 240057



That's exacly the same one. Got à brass nose that swivels around the bottom. You van oil at horizontaal position as it keep giving fluids.



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## WoodBee

GoceKU said:


> Today i visited couple of tool markets and bought couple of things... next thing i found was this old oil can, it is in decent condition and is big enough in size that i don't need to refill it every week....



It must be a Reilang for sure ( or a VERY close copy). I have a bunch of them, surely the best oil can I have ever used. There are 3 sizes of them as far as I know, and they are still made! Also two different types. One with just a tube protruding from the top and one where the tube starts with a wide part, just as in the drawing. The last one also works when held upside down. It is worth dismantling just to see how it works...
Good score!
Peter


----------



## GoceKU

I was going to leave the oil can for later in the week to clean up but after your comments decided to do it now, first i drain all the old oil it was thick dirty and smells like steam oil then i clean the inside the best i could, then fill it with new oil and tested it, it would not work, first thing i noticed the handle is bent and is not making full stroke, bent it back, but still wont work, tried blowing it out with air, it will not blow in or out, then i disassembled it and found that someone had installed the spring on the wrong side of the ball it should go as in the picture, reassembled it and it was working great, having a big lathe, means everything else needs to be big too, so the pipe is smaller than the ball in the grease nipples so i added sealing hose and now works fine, really feels like a quality tool.


----------



## Charles Spencer

Charles Spencer said:


> A new hot water heater.



It is kind of tool related.  My old one suffered a malfunction and blew a lot of steam all over the cellar.  My workshop connects to my cellar.  I didn't notice for more than a day.  So I spent the last two days scouring surface rust off my machines and oiling them.  Also a bunch of tooling that I have out in racks, like my R8 collets, oversized drills, etc.  And my stock of steel.


----------



## GoceKU

I've been looking for a affordable milling machine and today visited one machinery seller, did not find any good machines but bought this very nice 4 in one square drive wrench, it has 3/8, 1/2, 3/4, 1" drives and one more feeler gauges both are made by a make ALARM which i've never seen before but look like good quality, i'm really satisfied with the square drive wrench those are hard to come by.


----------



## GoceKU

This morning i went to get my welding co2 bottle exchange for a full one, got offered couple of tools to buy, there wasn't much in good condition but found this inside transfer caliper and two short brazed carbide cutters, not sure why are they so short but i'm sure i'll find use for them.


----------



## Zathros

Looks like they are for à boring head insert.


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----------



## British Steel

A few 40 taper toolholders, Albrecht chuck (looks unused), tension/compression tapping chuck (No collets though) off EvilBay...






A bit of a steal, going to need an M16 drawbar... 

Dave H. (the other one)


----------



## GoceKU

Another day another tool, this week seems to be full of tools, this morning when i went to buy a new spool of mig wire i stop by the local scrap yard there never anything good there but i was offerd this three clamps, they are just like the big one i got couple of weeks ago but smaller still strong but for clamping thinner pieces, should come in handy when working with sheet metal.


----------



## British Steel

I suppose I'd better confess... those holders, the Albrecht and tapping head cost me £25, so with the petrol to pick 'em up about $40 US for all 19 - I said it was a bit of a steal!

Dave H. (the other one)


----------



## 34_40

British Steel said:


> I suppose I'd better confess... those holders, the Albrecht and tapping head cost me £25, so with the petrol to pick 'em up about $40 US for all 19 - I said it was a bit of a steal
> Dave H. (the other one)



Did you have a mask on during the "purchase"...


----------



## British Steel

Mask, stripey jumper, sack labelled "swag" and a yard of M18 studding in my hand...

Dave H. (the other one)


----------



## GoceKU

British Steel said:


> Mask, stripey jumper, sack labelled "swag" and a yard of M18 studding in my hand...
> 
> Dave H. (the other one)



Mask, stripey jumper, sack labelled, and spending lots of money on petrol , did you impersonate James May from top gear?


----------



## British Steel

James May? not a chance, I'm far too old and grey... and £7 - £8 on petrol was definitely worth it! (I spent a lot more than that to pick the mill up - but that was a bargain too  )

Dave H. (the other one)


----------



## BFHammer

Bought a 10" Mitutoyo  height gage off eBay


----------



## GoceKU

Today i went to the tool market to buy couple of consumptive for the shop, cutting oil, shop rags also needed an new blades for my hand hacksaw, yesterday i completely destroyed my last two blades trying to cut off the last amount of that AR500 material that i parted off on the lathe, while i was looking for blades i bought two more complete hacksaws used but good quality made in w.germany also got this old linear torque wrench i use this type more for setting belt tension then torquing bolts.


----------



## Zathros

Got yesterday à Nice package in, 
New angle ruler, 12" / 30cm stainless steel ruler, 2 new live centers, à grinding stone for hard metal-tungsten and 5 cheap storage boxes.









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## GoceKU

Another day another tools acquired, first thing is this craftsman square, i usually buy better quality precision tools but i don't have half a meter long square and often find myself using rulers to extend my combination square, next i found this electric motor switch, its 3 phase up to 10HP, electric motor starters are more common but they need box and two more switches for a shop made machine i like this style better now i need to find an electric motor and use for it.


----------



## Doubleeboy

Been wanting a surface grinder for a long while.  Looked at a few used, a bunch new.  Almost pulled trigger on a Grizzly but did not want China made.    Between PM, Acer, Kent, Acra and Chevalier I thought Chevalier had the highest precision machine with features I wanted at a price I could live with.  So I pulled trigger for a Chevalier SP 618 manual.  Local dealer gave me screaming good price with understanding that they would supply no on site help in case of warranty work.  So they beat this price considerably.  Very nice machine, dialing in half a tenth is very easy, spindle is so quiet you can not tell its on if VFD or RFC is running in shop.  I am very happy and out of shop funds for a good while.  Chevalier stuff is all made in same factory and has been for years, I looked at a lot of Taiwan built machines, this seemed to be the best of the lot taking into consideration their long history selling SGs.   It was a real pleasure to clean off machine, without taking a grinding pass at mounting surface nor the magnetic chuck, surface of chuck was flat all over in relation to spindle within .0001"   I was dumfounded thought I would be spending a lot of time grinding it in.  Flood coolant was an option and spendy, I went cheap and bought Grizzly's little flood coolant rig for a couple hundred , not great but keeps things wet and cool which is the goal.

  info from another seller here http://www.machinetools4sale.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=2060


----------



## hman

GoceKU said:


> ...next i found this electric motor switch, its 3 phase up to 10HP, electric motor starters are more common but they need box and two more switches for a shop made machine i like this style better now i need to find an electric motor and use for it.
> View attachment 240666


Is that a center-off forward/reverse switch?  The "Ein/Aus" makes me think it might be.


----------



## GoceKU

hman said:


> Is that a center-off forward/reverse switch? The "Ein/Aus" makes me think it might be.



No this is only on / off switch with three contactors, i already disassembled it clean the contacts because i was getting resistance at one and assemble it also changed the plug for euro standard one, also got a lead on an old 10 hp electric motor with an broken mounting flange for cheap, i'll go and look at it later today, i have couple of dual rotation switches they are usually marked "1 0 1" meaning only one position is neutral, i'll attached picture.


----------



## GoceKU

I did just that what i mentioned earlier today, i bought the electric motor its just under 10 Hp and someone painted it yellow, but is a beast extremely heavy all cast iron and no fan its sealed it's made by Rade koncar which is good quality domestic manufacture 1470 Rpm 6.9 Kw i did connected the switch i bought the other day and tested it it runs very smooth and i started thinking of making a big chop saw with a 400 mm stone, as the only thing for cutting i have now is an 4" angle grinder.


----------



## GoceKU

Another day another tool, i went to a fellow machinist to buy this water pump i need for another project, but also bought two more strong clamps in the medium size, i've started using them and can't have enough of them.


----------



## Zathros

Can't have enough of Everything. LOL


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----------



## mikey

Doubleeboy said:


> Been wanting a surface grinder for a long while.  Looked at a few used, a bunch new.  Almost pulled trigger on a Grizzly but did not want China made.    Between PM, Acer, Kent, Acra and Chevalier I thought Chevalier had the highest precision machine with features I wanted at a price I could live with.  So I pulled trigger for a Chevalier SP 618 manual.  Local dealer gave me screaming good price with understanding that they would supply no on site help in case of warranty work.  So they beat this price considerably.  Very nice machine, dialing in half a tenth is very easy, spindle is so quiet you can not tell its on if VFD or RFC is running in shop.  I am very happy and out of shop funds for a good while.  Chevalier stuff is all made in same factory and has been for years, I looked at a lot of Taiwan built machines, this seemed to be the best of the lot taking into consideration their long history selling SGs.   It was a real pleasure to clean off machine, without taking a grinding pass at mounting surface nor the magnetic chuck, surface of chuck was flat all over in relation to spindle within .0001"   I was dumfounded thought I would be spending a lot of time grinding it in.  Flood coolant was an option and spendy, I went cheap and bought Grizzly's little flood coolant rig for a couple hundred , not great but keeps things wet and cool which is the goal.
> 
> info from another seller here http://www.machinetools4sale.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=2060



Wow!!! Impressive machine, specs and price! Seriously, congratulations on your new machine.


----------



## GoceKU

Zathros said:


> Can't have enough of Everything. LOL



It's not that bad, and as i'm starting from zero i need a lot of stuff, i haven't einhaired any tools from my father, he is a person who doesn't know the difference between a straight and a phillips screwdriver.


----------



## Zathros

GoceKU said:


> It's not that bad, and as i'm starting from zero i need a lot of stuff, i haven't einhaired any tools from my father, he is a person who doesn't know the difference between a straight and a phillips screwdriver.



Well I am at à age I enherit from 2 generations and 2 sides.
Gives me à advantidge.



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----------



## GoceKU

Another day another tool. Today i bought some more old iron first was this Threaded faceplate, is probably for a woodturning lathe and it has a screw in cutter in the middle it's 200 mm in diameter and could come in handy, next was this set of reduction gearboxes with what at the time looked like square threads, but definitely not square threads i got them with the thought of electric screw press for small parts, the reduction is 50:1 so should have some power, maybe a future project.


----------



## Zathros

Actually I bought this on line à week ago but package surprise came in late last night.
À quick change tool holder with cut off blade holder, 2 normal ½" holders and à boring bar holder.
À er16 extended bar for deep work.
 Me is happy again to replace the default tool holder on My lathe.


Added: 
Great tool for à steal of à price. Only $35 new in box. And for that amount of money à Very decent quality also. Not everything from those chinese Sellers is bad quality.
Almost an exact copy from the original only ⅓ the costs of the swiss made stuff from My lathe. Actually I suspect they got Some of their tools from china and Rebrand it for à while now.

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----------



## Zathros

Hmm strange,.... pic same way attached but not visible for even myself?



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## GoceKU

I've been too busy to do any work on any of my project, but managed to buy this 500 mm ruler locally in a hardware store, i've been needing a bigger micrometer but i can't seem to fine one in decent condition at a fair price so for the time being this is more precise than a tape measure.


----------



## francist

Milling vise for the little Atlas miller. An older one (not real old, but older) yet still nice and tight. Pretty skookum swivel platform on it, but the vise itself sits nice and squat. I like that. Still need to make some T-nuts for it and clean it up a bit, but couldn't resist just sitting it on the table for a picture. Thanks for looking!

-frank


----------



## darkzero

Zathros said:


> View attachment 240826
> 
> Hmm strange,.... pic same way attached but not visible for even myself?
> 
> Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk Pro



Haha, wow, I've never seen a tool post come in it's own storage/carry case before. Does that mean you are supoosed to put it away after each use? (Sorry I couldn't resist)


----------



## Zathros

To be honest me neither, most of the times in wooden boxes.
It was just such à steal I didn't care. And desides that it's the content that interest me.
It is à small one tho just for a 5x10" lathe.


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----------



## Silverbullet

I came across an auction site that sells tooling and machines . It's called BTM INDUSTRIAL . They had some ball endmills 11 all one size with all the delivery and shipped to me for $43  my bid was $24.00 a very fair price for new endmills.


----------



## mksj

I have been looking for some 1-2" and 2-3" micrometers for several years, bid on a few but always fell a few dollars short of the final price. I recently sent an message to an eBay retailer who sells a lot of  Igaging measuring equipment for a price quote on these two Igaging Speedmic's, and they were about the same as a 1-2" mitutoyo.  I sprung for the pair. These are the absolute reading type so they always remember their position, there is no thimble or ratchet mechanism, the thumb lever retracts the plunger and sets the tension for the measurement when released. Very quick to do multiple readings, repeatability of measurements was 0.00005".  I checked both mic's against the provided 1" and 2" gauge blocks, they both were spot on.  These are the previous gen SpeedMic's the latest version uses a bluetooth connection instead of a cable if you need to record the data electronically.  

Also picked up a 5/16-6" set of used Yuasa telescoping gauges at a reasonable price, so hopefully I will be set for a long time. I can finally get some accurate ID/OD measurements, my calipers were just not cutting it for some of the close tolerance work I sometime do. Overall, I have been very happy with the Igaging measuring instruments, they seem to be well built, have nice features and are priced about midway between the top end gauges and the generic low end gauges.

Added eBay Seller: shoppinger09
https://www.ebay.com/sch/shoppinger09/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
Lists a number of other Igaging items.


----------



## hman

Nice score!  Who was the seller?


----------



## Zathros

Awesome, à must have for me too.



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----------



## kvt

went to the local Flea market today,   Got 4 brass punches of various sizes.   and a couple of older Nicolson files.    Though this is the first time I have really seen anything more at the flea market around here there was a Dial indicator, but the crystal was cracked.   and it did not seam to work real well.   Returned to different spots each time pressed and released.   Thus did not get it,  also over priced.  Also saw a fake Kennedy that was bent etc, but they wanted more than what I would pay for a kennedy.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i went to the tool market, unfortunately it started to rain a lot therefore my buying got cut short only thing i bought were those two boring bars, they were 5$ for both.


----------



## JimDawson

Had to have another one.  Been really happy with them


----------



## Martin W

Picked up a Craftsman Torque wrench, still in the original box. Made in the USA. Paid 5 dollars. Still had the original receipt for $17.99 bought at Simpsons Sears Canada in 1977


----------



## GoceKU

Is it a sign that i'm buying too much tools when my tool shelf falls down ?


----------



## British Steel

Didn't buy, rescued on the way to the World's Best Skip:

A couple of small 4-jaws, missing jaws...



A piece of inch and a half plate, 17" diameter,



To make a tooling plate and save from (any more) dings and gouges:




Not every day you get to rescue a 15" rotary complete with dividing plates...

Dave H. (the other one)


----------



## darkzero

JimDawson said:


> View attachment 241078
> 
> Had to have another one.  Been really happy with them



Funny, that's when I purchased mine too, on a 25% off sale day. Surprising I'm really happy with mine too. The index sucks though, I put mine in a Huot index. Makes it feel like a quality set. Haha


----------



## jpfabricator

Not a tool to work, but a tool for leisure. I haven't riden a bike in 24 years. 
It took about 10 feet to realize, I'm out of shape. 

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk


----------



## roadie33

You and me both jp,
If I happened to get a bike to ride, I would want a different seat for sure.
Something with air ride and back support.


----------



## BogusSVO

I feel bad, the only thing I bought today way was a steel 45* for the glass bead gun because  the brass one had wear holes in it.. 

But last week I bough a BHJ blok-Tru fixture.. so will that count?


----------



## dlane

Economy car,


----------



## RandyM

GoceKU said:


> Is it a sign that i'm buying too much tools when my tool shelf falls down ?



No, it is a sign you need a bigger and better tool shelf.


----------



## dlane

Got this yesterday, Needed to give my 03 Dodge Ram 3500 6 spd  a break from every day driving , 
so I got one of these 34mpg avg.
It's a certified pre owned 2014 Honda Civic with 20,000 mi w/factory warranty, 
kinda a chick car but should last a long time, and a lot easier in stop n go traffic


----------



## Bamban

dlane,

From a 3500 class pick up for a daily driver to a Civic, you can buy some more nice to have toolings from gas money savings.


----------



## dlane

Yup big change , but my cummins 5.9 turbo gets good fuel mi at 25 city 30 hwy empty, but here with all the people that don't know how to drive (stop an go) the clutch in truck was pain in the leg


----------



## GoceKU

dlane, you've made the right choose, when i was younger i drove 4WD fast as hell car and put up with the race spec clutch low profile tires and 12 MPG 100 octane fuel consumption, but as i grow up i realised that is waste of money and discomfort, so few years ago i parked it and bought me an 4 cylinder diesel luxury car, now i'm getting 60 MPG and diesel fuel is cheaper and more common than race fuel and registration and insurance is half, so you have my approval.


----------



## JimDawson

These showed up in my driveway yesterday.  A pair of 15HP IR rotary screw air compressors.  $100 for the pair.  Both said to be mechanically OK, but have brain damage and are in need of a brain transplant.    Apparently the internal VFD and controller are the weak link in these compressors.  One of them is only about 2 years old.  I'll stuff in a new VFD and design a new bulletproof control system then sell them.  I understand that IR wants about $8000 for a new controller, that seems a bit pricy for repairs to a $10K compressor.  Wish I had enough power in my shop to run one, but I may try to derate one to 5 - 7 HP and see if that will work.


----------



## Dan_S

I'm chatting with amazon right now to find out why the spiral flute bottoming tap I ordered on Sunday still hasn't shipped yet. I know its a first world problem, but what's the point of paying extra for 2 day shipping when it takes them 3+ days to actually ship the thing..........


----------



## woodchucker

Dan_S said:


> I'm chatting with amazon right now to find out why the spiral flute bottoming tap I ordered on Sunday still hasn't shipped yet. I know its a first world problem, but what's the point of paying extra for 2 day shipping when it takes them 3+ days to actually ship the thing..........


Let us know what they say. I had a major problem a couple of months ago, took weeks to ship because the stock was in another warehouse, the one that was to be shipped from was out of stock.. I said WHAT!!!!!


----------



## darkzero

Been wanting some of these Knipex Pliers Wrenches for a while now but they're expensive. Finally pulled the trigger on them. Thanks to Zoro who had the best price on the set then got 20% off that & free shipping. These things are awesome! Can't believe I waited so long to get 'em. I love Knipex tools!





I've been needing a set of these. Cheap set is fine with me. Currently on sale at Sears for $17.42, not shown online. I know I had no points last week when I bought something else. Somehow I got $15 in surprise points so I ended up only paying $2.29 with tax!


----------



## darkzero

Adding to my Milwaukee M18 line..... Mid Torque 1/2" impact (600ft/lbs max). I had the High Torque impact (1200ft/lbs max) but I don't work in automotive anymore so I no longer need that much power. The High Torque was too bulky & heavy for me, gave it to my lil brother. Also got me a worklight.





Midwest offset LH & RH aviation snips. Currently on sale at Sears for $24 available online, $35 on Amazon.


----------



## Zathros

darkzero said:


> Been wanting some of these Knipex Pliers Wrenches for a while now but they're expensive. Finally pulled the trigger on them. Thanks to Zoro who had the best price on the set then got 20% off that & free shipping. These things are awesome! Can't believe I waited so long to get 'em. I love Knipex tools!
> 
> View attachment 241207
> 
> 
> 
> I've been needing a set of these. Cheap set is fine with me. Currently on sale at Sears for $17.42, not shown online. I know I had no points last week when I bought something else. Somehow I got $15 in surprise points so I ended up only paying $2.29 with tax!
> 
> View attachment 241208



Used those knipex and Some other models for 25 years now, can't think of better ones.
I have 4 differend models and also differend lengts, even got one at 5" the smallest.
Plan to buy the other models too in those sizes.
Special nut shaped, the flat ones you have and the same with teeths wich were the first ever to came out.
Indeed Very expensive, but they last more than à liftime.


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----------



## darkzero

Zathros said:


> Used those knipex and Some other models for 25 years now, can't think of better ones.
> I have 4 differend models and also differend lengts, even got one at 5" the smallest.
> Plan to buy the other models too in those sizes.
> Special nut shaped, the flat ones you have and the same with teeths wich were the first ever to came out.
> Indeed Very expensive, but they last more than à liftime.
> 
> 
> Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk Pro



I've got five of the Cobra pliers as well as a couple of other small pliers that I use for electronic work. And their mini bolt cutters have worked great for me too.

When I got the 5" Cobras I thought they were so small that they would be more of a novelty, I was wrong. Now I want a 5" of the plier wrench too!

Knipex have been my favorite brand of pliers ever since I bought my first pair of Cobras off a Matco truck 14 yrs ago when I was a mechanic.


----------



## Zathros

Part of My collection cobra and other knipex pliers. Have à few more but My Son has them now.





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----------



## GoceKU

I also have a few knipex pliers and couple W.Germany knipex pliers and their quality hasn't changed, the steel they use on all their products is unbelievable good.


----------



## Zathros

GoceKU said:


> I also have a few knipex pliers and couple W.Germany knipex pliers and their quality hasn't changed, the steel they use on all their products is unbelievable good.



I can agree without Any doubt. Worked with those pliers  more than 3 decades now bought new ones recent years and quality is as stable as you can get.
Even the oldest cobra I have I estimate it is about 25-30 years old and still going strong.



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----------



## Dan_S

woodchucker said:


> Let us know what they say. I had a major problem a couple of months ago, took weeks to ship because the stock was in another warehouse, the one that was to be shipped from was out of stock.. I said WHAT!!!!!



So I ended up cancelling my original order, and re-ordering the same tap from the same manufacture, with a different coating. The original one, was apparently incorrectly inventoried and was out of stock. I had to check my self to see that it wasn't going to be back in stock for almost a month. You would think they would have an automated notification of some kind when something is incorrectly inventoried, as i assume most people don't want to wait a month!


----------



## Zathros

Bought it last week. And just got it in with mailrun.


2 er um wrenches




And My morseconus 2 er32 tool.
Again à happy diy dude just before the weekend starts. Can't get Any better exept for the next shipment of tooling stuff seem to be in the pipeline at the tracking app.


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----------



## uncle harry

I scored a Century 2 hp single phase 230 vac motor and accompanying air compressor pump 6 miles from my shop for $50 late yesterday


----------



## woodchucker

Dan_S said:


> So I ended up cancelling my original order, and re-ordering the same tap from the same manufacture, with a different coating. The original one, was apparently incorrectly inventoried and was out of stock. I had to check my self to see that it wasn't going to be back in stock for almost a month. You would think they would have an automated notification of some kind when something is incorrectly inventoried, as i assume most people don't want to wait a month!


I think its stupid, that they were only shipping from the local dist center, if they didn't have it, why not ship it from the one that had it.  They have become too big, and have introduced problems to make them more profitable. So now what made them good, is gone, and they have become more unreliable.  If they plan on shipping from the local dist center, why show inventory for all locations, why not just show the local dist center.


----------



## woodchucker

I got this last weekend. I think I paid too much, but still got a fair deal.
One of those is a sine bar, there's a starrett 2" micrometer, an indicol quill mount (not shown and doesn't fit my 8520 need to replace the screw so it will).
The sleeve of emory paper is very fine great for polishing.  Still haven't unpacked it.. too busy with a new bench I got from my wife's friend. It was in horrible shape but has many shallow drawers. So thinking of stock holding. The bottoms are solid wood.


----------



## Zathros

woodchucker said:


> I think its stupid, that they were only shipping from the local dist center, if they didn't have it, why not ship it from the one that had it.  They have become too big, and have introduced problems to make them more profitable. So now what made them good, is gone, and they have become more unreliable.  If they plan on shipping from the local dist center, why show inventory for all locations, why not just show the local dist center.



Same issues here, see that often with the large webshops. But recently found out that the manufacturer is also guilty by not inform the suppliers.



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----------



## NCjeeper

I have gage pins up to .750. After watching Tom Lipton use a gage pin as a set up fixture it motivated me to buy the last 3 pin sets I needed. Now I am good up to 1 inch.


----------



## kvt

Amazon strikes again.   Ordered a couple of AXA tool holders,   good price and 2 day shipping.   Well 3 days and still nothing.   THen get an email that they canceled the order.   Said they could not get them in.    But checked their site and now the price has gone up, no longer available on prime but you now pay 6.50 each in shipping, and from the same company.


----------



## Ken from ontario

dlane said:


> Got this yesterday, Needed to give my 03 Dodge Ram 3500 6 spd  a break from every day driving ,
> so I got one of these 34mpg avg.
> It's a certified pre owned 2014 Honda Civic with 20,000 mi w/factory warranty,
> kinda a chick car but should last a long time, and a lot easier in stop n go traffic
> View attachment 241197
> View attachment 241198


Congratulations,  You will love your new Civic.
I'm in the opposite situation , own a 2007 Civic and now I'm thinking I need a 4x4 truck, that poor Civic  has been a true workhorse for 10 years, it has carried lumber, drywall, tools machines etc,etc.
 I will still keep it no matter what I  buy, this is my 3rd civic.


----------



## Dan_S

kvt said:


> Amazon strikes again.   Ordered a couple of AXA tool holders,   good price and 2 day shipping.   Well 3 days and still nothing.   THen get an email that they canceled the order.   Said they could not get them in.    But checked their site and now the price has gone up, no longer available on prime but you now pay 6.50 each in shipping, and from the same company.



So you bought them from a marketplace seller? I will only deal with Amazon themselves, i don't trust the marketplace sellers, to many shady ones.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i went to the tool market and bought couple of carbide inserts, for the first time i bought second hand carbide, there were many chipped inserts but few new and others with only one used edge, bought 15 pcs cost me 7$ which is less then one from the store, also bought one more medium size heavy duty clamp.


----------



## kvt

Dan_S said:


> i don't trust the marketplace sellers, to many shady ones.


I'm beginning not to trust Amazon for machine tools,   Have ordered stuff that is sold by amazon before and it is to the point my wife told me to stop ordering off Amazon.   Have received the wrong items,   Empty containers,  or had them cancel the items on me.   But have had better luck with stuff that was sold and provided by 3rd party providers.


----------



## BGHansen

Postman made my day a few days ago, four packages in one day!  Got a center scope, D1-5 8" backing plate from CDCOtools.com, an 8" set-tru style 3-jaw chuck from CME tools in Madison Heights, MI, and an SDA laser edge finder off eBay.

Center scope works fine, throw it in a collet on the mill, flood the work with light and move the table to find a center/scribed line.  This one has just one line (no cross hair) so I need to turn the scope 90 degrees to pick up a center.

The D1-5 8" backing plate and 8" set-tru style chuck are for my Grizzly G0709 14" x 40" lathe.  I always thought the 6" stock chuck looked small, plus with the jaws flipped the max diameter the chuck would handle wasn't much over 6" (ran out of scroll travel sooner that other chucks I have).  Installation and my thoughts on the chuck will be in a POTD posting.  The backing plate from CDCO was around $60 plus shipping.  Chuck from CME tools was just under $220 off eBay (seller niuniucme).  As an aside, the chuck is "self-centering", not "self-centring" as the shipping crate describes it . . .

OK, we have all wondered about the SDA laser center/edge finder.  Saw a concentric circle model and cross-hair model for $90 delivered for each on eBay; did a impulse buy on the cross-hair model after watching it for a couple of months.  So how does it work?  Well, it will not become my go to centering or edge finding device.  Could be operator error, so your results my vary.  I set a piece of paper with a cross-hair on it and rotated the spindle.  The instructions indicate if you are seeing a circle, the center finder needs to be adjusted.  The process is like truing a 4-jaw chuck, goes pretty quickly.  There is a polarizing filter which when rotated dims the light and shrinks the lines/center point (I'd estimate the lines at about 0.005" wide and the center dot around 0.007").  I trued it and turned off the lights at my mill.  Used a 3X magnifying visor and dialed the table onto the cross hair and zero'd my DRO.  Then moved the table off center and repeated centering 6 times, and got within 0.003" each time.  Not bad, but not great.  Then removed the center finder and refit it in a collet.  Spun the spindle and saw a circle about 0.015".  I hadn't touched the adjustment on the laser, so must be inconsistency in my mill/collets/crap in the spindle?  I can see a use for it, but I'll stick with a wiggler for now even though I doubt I'm repeatable within 0.003" with a wiggler.

Bruce


----------



## MonkMan

I finally got my new compressor installed. Now on to the MaxLine system install.


----------



## roadie33

Nice looking compressor.
I need to install one of those Maxline systems in my basement.
I am getting tired of dragging the air hose around everything when I need it.


----------



## GoceKU

I'm more busy than ever but over the weekend asked around for end mills and today got a call, and bought them, they are new, some surface rust in spots, but what i did not realize is that they are morse 2 taper and the short one is morse 1 taper, i'm thinking should i cut them straight or make a sleeve and use them with the taper in the chuck, they are Clarkson made in england HSS. The plan is to use them in my lathe in coalition with the milling attachment i'm making here is a link: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/is-lathe-milling-attachment-worth-making.61408/


----------



## Zathros

Sleeve
Have à few endmills from clarkson, Great stuff. Super hard.

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----------



## Groundhog

MonkMan said:


> I finally got my new compressor installed. Now on to the MaxLine system install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 241438


When I moved into my new shop I used RapidAir (same company, RapidAir is the cheaper version) and love it. So fast & easy to install I keep moving and adding air stations as I need or no longer need them. I think the original kit was about $100 and did a full loop around my 20'x24' shop with maybe 3 stations. The MaxLine is a step or two above mine so I'm sure it will keep you happy! Oh, looks like a pretty nice compressor too!


----------



## GoceKU

Today after work i got a call from the older gentleman i bought the others end mills he has found couple more, this time they are straight shank, he also offered me those canter shanks, one new one welded, and the long center drill, at first i wanted to pass because it had only one good side but then i thought it's a piece of HSS tool steel for next to nothing, they are also Clarkson made in england, as last thing he also gave me this pink grinding stone, at first also did not wanted it but then realized is for an tool post grinder and is rated for 6600 RPM.


----------



## Firestopper

Purchased a new Millermatic 252 to have a back up in the shop. In the past I always had two MIG machines incase of issues but in all honesty, I only had one machine break down in 30 years. Any how, Miller is offering a $300 mail in rebate and that brought the price down to $2200. The freight truck arrived at 5:30 pm and I quickly picked it and started unpacking it.




Broke out a new 30# spool of .035 and installed the stinger, ground cable, hose and regulator. Pulled a full bottle of 25/70 shielding gas and plugged her in.



Miller was generous with a power cable and cord cap (about 10'). It also came with a 15' M-25 stinger.


Took some 1/4" scrap and tried her out. I was so excited,I forgot to put on my cheaters so go easy on me. My first bead with this machine nice and hot (21.0V and 375 wire speed).



She's right at home with her big brother!



https://www.millerwelds.com/equipment/welders/mig-gmaw/millermatic-252-mig-welder-m00218
Turn and burn!
Paco


----------



## benmychree

I did not buy anything today, but am a slave to E Bay; things arrive all too often, just ask my wife!


----------



## darkzero

benmychree said:


> I did not buy anything today, but am a slave to E Bay; things arrive all too often, just ask my wife!



I'm addicted to receiving packages. If I know I don't have something coming in a week I must buy something!


----------



## benmychree

darkzero said:


> I'm addicted to receiving packages. If I know I don't have something coming in a week I must buy something!


Cosmic truth!  WTF did we did we do before E Bay?  Receiving packages is one thing, what is in them is quite another!  Call me a convert! Jesus is lord, but tools are a wonder of creation (or evolution) as well.


----------



## Ken from ontario

I got a couple of ER32 Clamping nuts and a wrench for my Er32 chuck, one nut is slightly taller to hold a rubber seal for coolant use,both should work well holding collets, at least better that the cheap one that came with the chuck .


----------



## ddickey

Bought myself a Grobet file. Nice small Swiss made for <$20. Not really sure if it was a very good deal.
Looks like there are a few left in case any one else wants one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/302432967209


----------



## GoceKU

It's sunday, that means tool market day, there wasn't much in quality machinist tools, but managed to find two electric motors, one someone has put an grinding stone on it, and the other is an old pressure washer, which i didn't never paid much attention but recently found that they have powerful electric motors, so both are cheap and in working condition, may come in helpful in the future.


----------



## British Steel

I saw a YouTube video of a pressure washer converted to a waterjet cutter, looked useful...





Dave H. (the other one)


----------



## Zathros

British Steel said:


> I saw a YouTube video of a pressure washer converted to a waterjet cutter, looked useful...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dave H. (the other one)



And I threw mine away last year because the hose and gun part was broken and leaking.
Base was still good.
Next time I might recycle it for such à project.



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----------



## GoceKU

Some of the bigger units have 3-5 Kw electric motor, so they are worth taking apart if the motor works, and with that much power i'm not surprised they can generate enafth pressure to cut softer materials.


----------



## Ken from ontario

darkzero said:


> I'm addicted to receiving packages. If I know I don't have something coming in a week I must buy something!


You must share your method on keeping track of what's coming, I admit I'm not very good at it ,  there has been a few occasions when  I find a brand new package in my tool box that I have no idea what it is or when I ordered it,it's Christmas all over again.


----------



## retrojoe

Picked up an Atlas MFC yesterday. It had sat idle for a few years at an art school and before that I suspect it was in a shop environment with a 3 phase motor. I only suspect the latter because it has heavy duty 3ph rated switch from the period but a Leeson Farm Duty 1 hp 1ph was added when the school got it in 2012.  It needs some work and a few replacement parts but nothing major (came with the original arbor support and bar, removed for transport). I ordered a more appropriately sized 1/3 hp TEFC cap start motor today. It will sit in the garage on its heavy handmade base as I take it down, clean and make repairs (and paint). I might have paid a little more than it was worth but I have a daughter arriving in December and now was the time if I was going to get one. The money went to the school so no one was making a profit off of me.


----------



## EmilioG

darkzero said:


> I'm addicted to receiving packages. If I know I don't have something coming in a week I must buy something!


I see this a lot, myself included.  I've dialed it down a bit lately.  I can see how it can get out of control.  Damn you Amazon Prime!


----------



## bfk

Yesterday I picked up a Remington 1/2hp 6" bench grinder on stand. Runs very smoothly, basically no vibration. Getting close to time to learn how to grind tools.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i bought couple more tapered end mills and two good quality tap, adding to the tool collection.


----------



## darkzero

Got me a practically brand new set of Mitutoyo gauge blocks for an awesome price! $1400 new, paid $350 shipped.








I've always wanted a .0001 dial indicator. Most of them have very short travel though. This one has 1/2" travel. Pretty cool, I never seen a dial indicator like this with 2 sub dials. It's brand new but I think it's an older model. I've see the same p/n but with only 1 sub dial.








Got me a 12" PEC hook scale & an articluated arm for a small upcoming project. Noga style arms are commonly used in the photography industry. I found the cheapest one I could, it was only $8 & the quality shows but will be fine for what I'm going to use it for.






I don't need another Noga but found this one for a good price on another forum. It's the MG size (second largest to the Big Boy). My favorite size to use is the DG.


----------



## Ken from ontario

I like every one of them, the DI is the best of the bunch, great buy.


----------



## uncle harry

Today, I purchased two sets of gauge pins.  They are Meyer gauge pins  .oooo4* X0 and X1  (I'm relying on memory here) not black ox and in wood cases.  They had been used at an electronic tool making division of Snap On tool.  Apparently Snap on  only operated this plant, located a half hour's travel from me for only 4 years and moved the operation to Mexico.

For those unfamiliar the X0 set goes fron .011 to . o60 and X1 from .061 to .250.  I think I kind'a scored on this one. ($150).


----------



## darkzero

Ken from ontario said:


> You must share your method on keeping track of what's coming, I admit I'm not very good at it ,  there has been a few occasions when  I find a brand new package in my tool box that I have no idea what it is or when I ordered it,it's Christmas all over again.



For me it's easy, I use the USPS Dashboard, UPS My Choice, & FedEx Delivery Manager services.

With USPS I just log in every morning to see what's on it's way. With UPS & FedEx, when you activate those services, you get emails when a package is coming (UPS only sends you an email the day before delivery) so no need to log in & check but you can as well.

Not perfect as I don't always know what those packages are just from tge tracking numbers but at least I know something. Also when I order something, I don't delete the email from my inbox until I receive it, so I know exactly what coming.


----------



## richl

Some things came usps today, 1/2" boring bars kit, ccmt boring bar, and a mitutoya digital caliper to replace a very inaccurate and erratic fowler model.

I'm in the process of some construction in the shop the next few days so I can't properly test everything, but the mit caliper has been very repeatable, and sets to zero everything,  unlike the fowler... ugggg


----------



## tq60

kvt said:


> Amazon strikes again.   Ordered a couple of AXA tool holders,   good price and 2 day shipping.   Well 3 days and still nothing.   THen get an email that they canceled the order.   Said they could not get them in.    But checked their site and now the price has gone up, no longer available on prime but you now pay 6.50 each in shipping, and from the same company.


Call them and talk about it.

I if you bought it then they usually work with you.

Often a third party gets creative and things get wonky but amazon usually will do something.

Sometimes vendors ate banned.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk


----------



## Zathros

Just got these in.
Boring bar set 9 pieces ⅜ and 2 morseconus sleeves mt1<mt2




Just Some cheap stuff, 


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## woodchucker

darkzero said:


> Got me a practically brand new set of Mitutoyo gauge blocks for an awesome price! $1400 new, paid $350 shipped.
> 
> A BIG YOU SUCK!!!!!
> 
> 
> I've always wanted a .0001 dial indicator. Most of them have very short travel though. This one has 1/2" travel. Pretty cool, I never seen a dial indicator like this with 2 sub dials. It's brand new but I think it's an older model. I've see the same p/n but with only 1 sub dial.
> 
> That's really nice...
> 
> 
> Got me a 12" PEC hook scale & an articluated arm for a small upcoming project. Noga style arms are commonly used in the photography industry. I found the cheapest one I could, it was only $8 & the quality shows but will be fine for what I'm going to use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't need another Noga but found this one for a good price on another forum. It's the MG size (second largest to the Big Boy). My favorite size to use is the DG.


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## zmotorsports

firestopper said:


> Purchased a new Millermatic 252 to have a back up in the shop. In the past I always had two MIG machines incase of issues but in all honesty, I only had one machine break down in 30 years. Any how, Miller is offering a $300 mail in rebate and that brought the price down to $2200. The freight truck arrived at 5:30 pm and I quickly picked it and started unpacking it.
> View attachment 241509
> View attachment 241510
> View attachment 241511
> 
> Broke out a new 30# spool of .035 and installed the stinger, ground cable, hose and regulator. Pulled a full bottle of 25/70 shielding gas and plugged her in.
> View attachment 241512
> View attachment 241513
> 
> Miller was generous with a power cable and cord cap (about 10'). It also came with a 15' M-25 stinger.
> View attachment 241514
> 
> Took some 1/4" scrap and tried her out. I was so excited,I forgot to put on my cheaters so go easy on me. My first bead with this machine nice and hot (21.0V and 375 wire speed).
> View attachment 241515
> View attachment 241516
> 
> She's right at home with her big brother!
> 
> View attachment 241517
> 
> https://www.millerwelds.com/equipment/welders/mig-gmaw/millermatic-252-mig-welder-m00218
> Turn and burn!
> Paco



You will love that machine Paco.  I have the predecessor to the MM252, the MM251 which is basically the same machine with the exception that the MM252 has a sloped and redesigned front panel.  It's been a great machine and have put a lot of wire through mine over the years.

Mike


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## Silverbullet

Well the old inerweb had a machine shop auction about 5 miles from me. Well I bid on about 10 -15 items all just cheap bids. I won one a two door metal cabinet, what I didn't know was it was there's a bunch of goodies inside it . I haven't been out but will be going to the surgeon on Thursday at 215 pm. So I plan on getting out early to just get out . If I'm gonna be in pain I might as well do something for myself too. Then I look at the extras my twenty bucks bought. It's on wheels too ones broken but I have a few out in the shop.  I figured it would hold my atlas mill easy but heck it may hold the planer . Either way it's at least one I won't have to build and put casters on. The angle plates and other items will get used too. Wish I had more money they had about ten six inch d60 vises . Lots of other tooling too.


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## GoceKU

Me and my end mills, bought two more, somehow they are the same make and model as previous ones, but i bought them from a different source, they probably are common brand and model.


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## British Steel

When I was a lad, the Foreman would take that chuck key out and tap me hard on the head with it if I left it in the chuck....

It hurt a lot less than when it flew out across the factory when I turned the lathe on, it hit someone else and they punched me in the mouth, though 

Dave H. (the other one)


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## uncle harry

British Steel said:


> View attachment 242097
> 
> 
> When I was a lad, the Foreman would take that chuck key out and tap me hard on the head with it if I left it in the chuck....
> 
> It hurt a lot less than when it flew out across the factory when I turned the lathe on, it hit someone else and they punched me in the mouth, though
> 
> Dave H. (the other one)



A couple of decades ago I contracted with a 1 man shop to build a complicated & precise plastic folding machine, The owner insisted that the chuck key  be stored in the chuck when the lathe was not in use. No amount of discussion would convince him otherwise. Fortunately no one was ever maimed.


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## Zathros

British Steel said:


> View attachment 242097
> 
> 
> When I was a lad, the Foreman would take that chuck key out and tap me hard on the head with it if I left it in the chuck....
> 
> It hurt a lot less than when it flew out across the factory when I turned the lathe on, it hit someone else and they punched me in the mouth, though
> 
> Dave H. (the other one)



I Used to have learned that too on old machines about 25 years ago.

My lathe has à second mechanica micro switch in the protection cover. As long as it is not closed the machine is completely disconnected from the power source.
It turns on at the last 2 mm when closing and even then I have to use the main switch to turn it on Again.



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## Alan H.

firestopper said:


> Purchased a new Millermatic 252 to have a back up in the shop. In the past I always had two MIG machines incase of issues but in all honesty, I only had one machine break down in 30 years. Any how, Miller is offering a $300 mail in rebate and that brought the price down to $2200. The freight truck arrived at 5:30 pm and I quickly picked it and started unpacking it.
> View attachment 241509
> View attachment 241510
> View attachment 241511
> 
> Broke out a new 30# spool of .035 and installed the stinger, ground cable, hose and regulator. Pulled a full bottle of 25/70 shielding gas and plugged her in.
> View attachment 241512
> View attachment 241513
> 
> Miller was generous with a power cable and cord cap (about 10'). It also came with a 15' M-25 stinger.
> View attachment 241514
> 
> Took some 1/4" scrap and tried her out. I was so excited,I forgot to put on my cheaters so go easy on me. My first bead with this machine nice and hot (21.0V and 375 wire speed).
> View attachment 241515
> View attachment 241516
> 
> She's right at home with her big brother!
> 
> View attachment 241517
> 
> https://www.millerwelds.com/equipment/welders/mig-gmaw/millermatic-252-mig-welder-m00218
> Turn and burn!
> Paco


Congratulations on that new Miller Paco.  I love the length of that stinger - Niiiiice!

Do you use Miller's recommendations for heat and wire speed?  Or is that something you honed yourself.  Is the new machine consistent with what you are accustomed to in that regard?


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## Alan H.

MonkMan said:


> I finally got my new compressor installed. Now on to the MaxLine system install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 241438


Very nice looking machine.  How loud is that new pump?


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## Firestopper

Alan H said:


> Congratulations on that new Miller Paco.  I love the length of that stinger - Niiiiice!
> 
> Do you use Miller's recommendations for heat and wire speed?  Or is that something you honed yourself.  Is the new machine consistent with what you are accustomed to in that regard?



Thanks Alan,
The charts are always a good starting point, but its the sound and puddle quality that really help me dial in a MIG (any quality MIG). The new 252  welds like the 350P in all aspects with the exception of pulse mode. Pulse mode took me a little while to understand back in 2006. Pulse welding has a sound of its own with the ability to control the weld bead profile. This makes it perfect for production welding with little to no spatter cleanup or grinding down a bead.
The 252 is a back up and will mostly be used in the automotive side of the shop. Its nice to have the ability to weld 22 gauge-1/2" and they both can share the 30A spool gun.
I also have a very nice TIG set up for those "special" jobs but really use the MIG 98% of the time. My field welding days are mostly behind me as I prefer the shop life, but I still have a  Miller bobcat 225 with 220 hours stuffed in the conex box. For those little outside jobs around the property, its hard to beat my little 110v Lincoln machine with a 10# spool of flux core wire. This little work horse had pushed at least 20-30 10# spools in its life with zero issues and a hand full of tips. The last 2 piece of welding equipment I own is a Miller LMSW-52 spot welder capable of 3/16" and a Miller Thunder blot for hard facing buckets. Perhaps one day I will unite the gang for a family photo and share it in the "show me your welders" forum.


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## MonkMan

Alan H said:


> Very nice looking machine.  How loud is that new pump?


Much quieter than my old sears unit. You can actually hold a conversation standing nearby the running unit.


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## Alan H.

Paco, you have some mighty fine welding and fab gear!  Wish I lived closer so I could come over and borrow some of it from time to time!!

I have a hankering for a small lunchbox Tig.  I have an old Miller Econo Twin HF that I inherited from my dad.  It's TIG function on it is not that great and I don't stick weld anymore since I have a Millermatic mig.  I had a Miller Thunderbolt for years until it died on me.   So I have been resisting the urge to launch into the studies for a TIG cause that would result in a purchase in short order.

I did buy a new Miller Digital Infinity helmet a few weeks back.   Finally got the contraption of a headband adjusted well.  I got a deal with a 60 buck rebate from Miller.


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## Firestopper

Thanks Alan,
To think it all started on Christmas 1987 when my wife gifted me a Millermatic 200, 4" Makita grinder and a 14" Makita chop saw to start my side work.
My first TIG was an Econotig that served me well for a decade. 
Your hood looks to have a nice viewing area. The head gear can be a PITA to get just right. I'm looking for a decent magnifier "cheater" lens for my Speedglass 9002 so I can ditch the glasses. Those things give me a headache while the hood is up. Gotta love the Miller rebates.


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## Alan H.

You have a good woman Paco.  Look what her start catalyzed!

Yeap, the Infinity has the largest viewing area in the Miller lineup (and of the competitors as I understand it.).   BTW, they also sell cheaters for it!


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## Alan H.

My oil came in!  I have used this stuff for years.  I have an aerosol can of it but I bought a new can to replace the one that developed legs and walked off sometime back.  This is good stuff.  In the my plant operations past this stuff was in every maintenance shop on the site.


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## mksj

Hey Alan,
My oil can also just came in, looks just like yours! Also picked up a Llambrich JK-130 R-8 keyless drill chuck with an integrated R8 shank  complements of Zoro's 20% off sale. It replaced my Glacern R8-DC500 keyless chuck which was pretty decent, but the metal arbor fractured inside the chuck. A bit too dangerous too use anymore. The Llambrich drill chucks I have found to be well made and they work very smoothly, the TIR is just under 0.001" which is almost as good as my old Jacobs 14N keyed chuck.


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## killswitch505

mksj said:


> Hey Alan,
> My oil can also just came in, looks just like yours! Also picked up a Llambrich JK-130 R-8 keyless drill chuck with an integrated R8 shank  complements of Zoro's 20% off sale. It replaced my Glacern R8-DC500 keyless chuck which was pretty decent, but the metal arbor fractured inside the chuck. A bit too dangerous too use anymore. The Llambrich drill chucks I have found to be well made and they work very smoothly, the TIR is just under 0.001" which is almost as good as my old Jacobs 14N keyed chuck.
> 
> View attachment 242204
> View attachment 242203


Hey man what led ring did you use?


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## mksj

Ring light is an auto 100mm Angel Eye Ultra COB ring light that operates off of a 12VDC supply. I machined a low profile aluminum carrier ring and inset just the LED light ring (no lens) into the carrier ring and held in place with some silicone glue. The LEDs are already sealed in the light ring. There is a thin vinyl insulating layer between wire connections and the ring to prevent shorting. The spindle carrier ring is about 1/4" thick and larger then the spindle so the light ring recess diameter  is larger then the spindle diameter, the inner porting of the carrier ring is stepped to about a 0.075" thickness to fit onto the spindle. The carrier ring is a snug fit on the spindle and held on with a small allen set screw.  A larger ring light also decreases shadows when using a chuck.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-100mm-12...-Ring-Fog-Light-Bulb-Waterproof-/262663813946


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## Firestopper

Hey Mark,
I suppose you went through that gallon of rapid tap already . Your gonna need a flame locker for your collection of oils.
Nice chuck too. I picked one up last year (Precision Mathews) on Amazon for $175 and used Discover points to cover the cost.
Your LED setup is second to none just like your builds.


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## BGHansen

Postman started delivering tooling for the Bridgeport CNC mill I picked up last Saturday.  Still more coming . . .

First is an ER32 chuck on an R-8 arbor with a set of collets from 1/8" - 3/4" from CDCOtools.com.  Makes tooling changes easier on the Bridgeport since it doesn't have a power drawbar (yet).  Also got a 5/8" eyebolt, 5/8" to JT3 arbor for a 0-1/2" Jacobs chuck for the mill and a dedicated 3/4" wrench which will be for the drawbar and about every other bolt on the Bridgeport.

Bruce


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## Alan H.

Bruce, what do you think about the stuff from CDCO?   Their pricing is attractive.


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## BGHansen

Alan H said:


> Bruce, what do you think about the stuff from CDCO?   Their pricing is attractive.


Hi Alan,

I have had no issues for the most part from stuff from CDCOtools.com.  The only iffy purchase was a set of 6" caliper jaw extenders.  The set screws were really weak, stripped out the hex the first time they were used.  Extenders were fine with new set screws.  Not a great set of instructions with them either.  The instructions were for extenders that are 1/2" diameter rods, but mine are 3/8".  The instructions say to zero out the dial with the jaws closed, which is fine if they were 0.500", but they're actually 0.375" between center so the instructions are wrong.

I've been a very good customer of theirs for collets and QCTP tool holders (see attached lathe photos).  Must have 75 of the BXA holders which cost $12 or $13 each.  Someone did a nice measurement review of the CDCO vs. Aloris vs. Dorian vs. Shars, etc. and didn't see much difference in anything dimensionally.  Some guys have reported getting tool holders with bad set screws or all angle holes, but mine have all been fine.

I have their 5-C collets by 1/64" on my Grizzly lathe and 1/32" on the Clausing.  No issues with any of those.  The Clausing has one of their 5-C plain back chucks on it also.

I've also purchased parallels, angle gauge blocks, protractor, etc. with no issues.  I hate to say it, but the Chinese have come a long way in making very good products for a great price.  Would love to have Aloris tool holders on my lathes, but at ~$65 a piece, there's no way I could justify that in my hobby shop.

By the way, I've bought a fair amount of stuff from Shars and CME Tools out of Madison Heights, MI with no issues either.

Bruce


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## Alan H.

Thanks Bruce for the feedback.  I bought a set of their 5C's and they were a little rough.  I use them often and they seem to work okay and the price was right to say the least.


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## Firestopper

Alan H said:


> Thanks Bruce for the feedback.  I bought a set of their 5C's and they were a little rough.  I use them often and they seem to work okay and the price was right to say the least.


I got a set from them a couple of years ago and they where very nice. They ran about $200 for the larger set. I inspected each one and was pleased with the fit/finish and accuracy on the 5C scroll chuck. I guess it could be hit and miss though.


This set goes down as one of my best buys for the money.


Could not detect any appreciable runout.


I use this chuck system way more than I ever thought I would. Another good recommendation from mksj.
I'm  sure my time will come when I purchase with disappointment.


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## dlane

A while back I loaned out my pressure washer , when it came back it was squirting water out the pump seal gasket so I ordered a new gasket , went thru the pump with new o rings and the gasket 
Putting it back together and the 4 bolts holding it together were stripped in the housing .
Guess they figured it wouldn't leek if they tightened the cr***p out of the bolts
So I ordered this pump to replace it.    No more loaning out expensive breakable objects for me.


Not sure where it was made but it wasn't china


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## Firestopper

Years back I loaned out my Graco airless spryer with detailed instructions on cleaning and "pickling".  Well the next time I need the sprayer, it was DIW! Fixed it for $300 and now when I loan it out it comes with an operator...

Thats a nice looking pump 2700 or 3000 psi? I recently replaced my PW pump as well, I had to add a water inlet filter as well. Turns out after doing a failure analysis during teardown, I found small sand rubies caused excessive ware. Must be our well water. I bet the person you loaned it to allowed it to over idle resulting in heat build up.


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## richl

These arrived yesterday, I decided to fit the shop up with an assortment of mics and calipers, instead of constantly walking around from machine to machine trying to figure out where I left them. Also picked up an igaging 0-1" mic, I have a 1"-2" already, I'm not sold on them yet, they appear to be very accurate, though I just assumed I would be able to lock it in when I hit my measurement, not sure if I am missing something...
Always looking to add USA endmills to the collection, .75" 6 flute cobalt..


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## woodchucker

dlane said:


> A while back I loaned out my pressure washer , when it came back it was squirting water out the pump seal gasket so I ordered a new gasket , went thru the pump with new o rings and the gasket
> Putting it back together and the 4 bolts holding it together were stripped in the housing .
> Guess they figured it wouldn't leek if they tightened the cr***p out of the bolts
> So I ordered this pump to replace it.    No more loaning out expensive breakable objects for me.
> View attachment 242260
> 
> Not sure where it was made but it wasn't china



Same here I leant out my makita 4.5 grinder. it came back with the aluminum head cracked, the lock broken and the thing covered in black goo.
My friend then went and bought a new one for himself, and returned mine in shreds.

I didn't get that.  He thought nothing of it.  He kinda got upset when I went WTF.

I bought a HF unit because I was unemployed at the time.  Seems to work good. I miss the makita though. Might go for a Makita 7" .. I always return it in good shape, or I buy them a new one, and keep the old.  I just don't get people who think it's my job to clean it, or replace it.


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## richl

Its a problem, loaning tools,  i find it hard to excuse someone breaking yours, buying a new one for themselves, and returning yours broken.
My dad, God rest his soul, would lend me something, and 100% of the time it would break, I would either end up fixing it or buying him a new one. I got to the point where I would go thru 50 questions with him before borrowing anything lol
I rarely lend stuff out anymore, why have the hassle, bring it by, or the part and I'll, weld, grind, mill, tap or whatever...

Rich


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## Groundhog

I rarely loan tools. However, I have a couple of friends that I can loan something to and know that it will be returned in a reasonable time frame and that it will come back in as good (or better) condition as it was in when they borrowed it. I don't mind loaning something to individuals like that.


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## Alan H.

Groundhog said:


> I rarely loan tools. However, I have a couple of friends that I can loan something to and know that it will be returned in a reasonable time frame and that it will come back in as good (or better) condition as it was in when they borrowed it. I don't mind loaning something to individuals like that.


Keep those friends, they are rare.


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## Firestopper

I hear ya gents, If I need to borrow something twice (or rent), I buy it. Lending tools is limited to a handful of friends for me. I also limit this to shop time equipment use. I trust even fewer folks in this arena. Quick story, back in 95 I loaned a car trailer to a coworker whom stated he had a "small tractor" to move. When he returned the trailer the ramps looked like taco shells. I built new ones and he never offered to help with material/labor. Fast forward 10 years, he showed up to work with a new dump trailer and I ask if I could borrow it for a day, His response "my wife doesn't like me to loan out my trailer". I politely thanked him anyway. Knucklehead must have forgotten the taco shells he made me.



richl said:


> These arrived yesterday, I decided to fit the shop up with an assortment of mics and calipers, instead of constantly walking around from machine to machine trying to figure out where I left them. Also picked up an igaging 0-1" mic, I have a 1"-2" already, I'm not sold on them yet, they appear to be very accurate, though I just assumed I would be able to lock it in when I hit my measurement, not sure if I am missing something...
> Always looking to add USA endmills to the collection, .75" 6 flute cobalt..
> 
> View attachment 242271



Nice buy!
 I'm old school when it comes to micrometers, but next time I see Mark (mksj), I'll take a look at the 1"-2" he recently purchased. He turned me on to the iGaging digital calipers and I loved the ease of math when using the zero feature. My 1982 Mittutoyo served me well over the years but the iGaging are awesome.


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## dlane

Kinda Just moved here , still trying to sort people out , keep reminding myself where I am 
The old one was a 2400 psi Honda 5hp ,Got the PW working 2700psi feels stronger than ever,


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## alloy

Went to a sale not far from me today.  Showed a few machinist tools in the CL ad.  Was a guy that just had a pacemaker put in and he can't even think about running his machines now.

I got these for $30.   Originally he said $35.  He really liked to talk so I stayed awhile.  When I handed $35 he said here, $30 is enough.

I almost feel like I took him but he wouldn't take any more for them.  The chuck is brand new and the stop has a minor mark on it, not enough to affect it's function.


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## dlane

Alloy, the famous HM red x


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## alloy

I see that.  Can't seem to fix it.  When I wrote the post it showed up just fine.

I think I got it to show up now, but it's 90 degrees off.

You will just have to turn your computer to look at it


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## kvt

The other problem with loaned tools is often you have to go looking for the person to get them back when you need them.   I have pretty much stopped loaning tools out,  you want it I come with it, and it comes back with me.  Have been trying to build my tools back up for a long time.   While working for a company that sent me over to the sand box,   my wife and daughter let one of her boy friends use and barrow my tools when I got back he was nowhere around and most of my tools were gone.


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## BGHansen

Another package from FedEx for my Bridgeport.  Little bit of buyer's remorse, but I can fix it.  Quick version, got a standard mill clamping kit with 5/8" wide T-nuts for $47 and free shipping off eBay.  The carrier is glass-filled plastic, not sheet metal.  Should (hopefully) be OK since it's not taking any load other than dead weight.  However, the rods as you can see are whilly-nilly in the case.  Well, I recall in geometry we were taught that two points determined a line.  Kinda hard for them to stand up straight with just the one constraint.  Ah, I smell another POTD - gonna cut blocks to fit in the bottom of the base and drill/chamfer some holes for supporting the bottom end.

Bruce


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## BGHansen

Oh, forgot to mention that the clamping kit T-nuts have a through thread.  First for me as I'm used to seeing T-nuts having purposely damaged threads on the bottom so you don't run the studs into the table.  Might be a good thing to check if you're buying a cheap set off eBay.  I'll take a whack on the bottom with a ball peen and see what that does.

Bruce


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## richl

Been trying banggood now and than for different tooling, some good, some not so good.
Dovetail cutters 45 degree and a 30 degree
Facemill, 2" takes the circle inserts, it's not too bad as far as manufacturing goes, things I notice, the Allen screw that holds the head down is too long, there is some sloop from the drive pins to the head, screws that hold in the inserts are questionable... we'll see how it works.
I purchased the face mill because I was unsure if my mill would be able to handle a multi insert 2" head, after a forum exchange here with Bob korvis, apparently my 1956 1hp mill, is rated 2hp by 2017 Chinese standards, so the 20 dollars the facemill cost me is just an experiment, hopefully it works 

Rich


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## woodchucker

richl said:


> purchased the face mill because I was unsure if my mill would be able to handle a multi insert 2" head, after a forum exchange here with Bob korvis, apparently my 1956 1hp mill, is rated 2hp by 2017 Chinese standards, so the 20 dollars the facemill cost me is just an experiment, hopefully it works


Let's here back on how it works. I'm curious.


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## Lordbeezer

Have picked up a few winter projects..12" Seneca falls lathe.12"Logan powermatic.10"Sheldon LWQE.and yesterday a nice 12" long bed clausing 100 mk 3..I'm keeping that one..trading the powermatic for a 10"Sheldon .south bend model c.dalton.dont know model and a small magnetic chuck...also picked up a 10"bench grinder..it's 440v but it looks so cool.


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## Ken from ontario

BGHansen said:


> Oh, forgot to mention that the clamping kit T-nuts have a through thread.  First for me as I'm used to seeing T-nuts having purposely damaged threads on the bottom so you don't run the studs into the table.  Might be a good thing to check if you're buying a cheap set off eBay.  I'll take a whack on the bottom with a ball peen and see what that does.
> 
> Bruce


I got a cheap T nut set just like your with the red plastic holder, luckily mine were plugged,  for the few T nuts I made myself I  used a small cold chisel with a very small tip (shop made) to sort of damage the threads .I'm surprised yours is through thread. great buy nevertheless.


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## richl

Not bad, it's not mirror smooth, but it is flat and smooth to the touch. This was hand feed, and I am using the Chinese inserts, which are not exactly concentric and regular in size. This is about 30.00 with head, arbor shafts  (.75") and a box of 10 inserts. I'm pretty sure about the price, I would have to check my orders.
Cuts were in the range of 2-3 thousandths, I did not want to stress the head or the inserts.

My verdict,  I'm happy with my purchase, I will know more in the next couple of weeks, but right now, I only want and need something that can give me a decent fly cuting that can be cleaned up with some lapping and a stone.

If money is tight, and you would like to try a multi cutter insert, this is a pretty decent lowbuck entry point. Not positive about its long range durability, the hold down screws for the inserts and the pull down holders are questionable, I guess they are replaceable with better ones...
(Edit) cuts were done on some old gummy crs 1018 I had in the shop.


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## GoceKU

Today i visited the tool market, there are couple of seller offering some old quality tools but most of them are in terrible shape and not worth messing with, but i managed to buy this big lathe dog, not sure what 100 mm i will run in between centers but is nice to have it when i need it, also bought 5 hydraulic short hoses, i'm planning to build a electric hydraulic press in the future and is nice to have them when i need them.


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## GoceKU

Another day another tools purchase, today visited an machinery seller no luck with buying a mill, but bought this 21mm taper drill bit used, couple tools marks on the shank, but still sharp  as new and made in germany, litle surfice rust, next thing i bought was this machinist's square little surface rust, much less then looks on the pictures, not sure how made it, but looked practical.


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## Zathros

Today the mailman delivered a new joyfull package,
2 wooden boxes for My collets wich Will be filled with foam inlays and cut out to My needs. The boxes inside the wooden ones Will be Used for other needly purposes, like fishing hooks
Recoil mullet and rubber mullet.
Drilgauge and by mistake 20 blades instead of the 2 I ordered and payed for




And If i didn’t own Any mullets
Well not too many though


About à quarter of the Total Sum is shown in this pic.


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## GoceKU

Today i finally managed to find a green stone to fit may bench grinder, i had to drive to a neighboring city to buy it, but now i have a proper stone for carbide, also bought two more end mills, one straight one taper shank.


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## Ken from ontario

Zathros said:


> And If i didn’t own Any mullets
> Well not too many though
> View attachment 242679
> 
> About à quarter of the Total Sum is shown in this pic.
> 
> 
> Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk Pro


You are short of a few more brass mallets though, don't you think?


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## Zathros

Ken from ontario said:


> You are short of a few more brass mallets though, don't you think?



I know even. Not thinking straight just know I need more.


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## mmcmdl

For those of us who are , um , somewhat in our later years .................could we start a thread titled " What did I sell today " ??  Or will I get ?

LOL . I just got rid of 1 of my 6 compressors . An empty 2 square feet in the garage . Oh crap , I'm back to buying to fill that empty space !!


----------



## killswitch505

I've been wanting a copy for a while my dad picked me up one.


----------



## vocatexas

I don't have any pics, but....last weekend the wife and I took a little road trip. On a whim we stopped at a flea market we saw. I picked up a Craftsman six inch bench grinder (looks like one of the block grinders) dated 7/60 in very near perfect condition for $30. It still has the original tool rests and eye shields in place. Unfortunately it's missing the outer wheel covers, but it spins up and runs almost silently and the bearings feel as good as new. I think I did okay on that one.


----------



## woodchucker

Zathros said:


> About à quarter of the Total Sum is shown in this pic.


Welcome to the tool addicts hub...   Funny, I didn't start out by being a tool addict, but I have turned into one.


----------



## Zathros

Today à backorder came in, party time Again.
À er32 collet 20mm, use this mostly for the new generation bicycle axles to modify.
And Well worth the wait to replace the 150 watts light with à 15 watt green power saving  led light. Saved me 90% of the power Used by the former one.
Even gives better light now as à extra.





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## Zathros

woodchucker said:


> Welcome to the tool addicts hub...   Funny, I didn't start out by being a tool addict, but I have turned into one.



Always has been, and Will be à tool junky.
Counted over 50 hammers.
And I guess I missed à few.



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## richl

I've been getting by without one for the last 5 years, I got caught up in the hype here on the forums a bit, so I ordered machinerys handbook and guide 26th edition. The handbook looks brand new, the guidebook was a library copy, doesn't look like it has been used since it was added to the library




Rich


----------



## ddickey

Bought a granite 2x4x24 AA straight edge for $100. Made by Tru-stone up here in MN. Got it at a pawn shop. Seems to be in perfect shape.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited couple more machinery dealers, no luck finding a decent mill to buy but found couple of end mills to buy, also managed to buy new old euro aluminium socket, i'm missing one on my lathe you can see the holes in the electrical cabinet on the lathe, only bad thing the socket is blue, i need to prep it and paint it.


----------



## MozamPete

Not exactly machining related, but I decided I needed to upgrade my old cordless drill. After a bit of research I decided to go for the new Makita brushless LXT one ....... and then got carried away.



Cordless hammer drill and impact driver.



Cordless angle grinder and reciprocating saw.

Plus a charger, some batteries and a USB supply adaptor for the batteries so that’s my tool budget blown for the next couple of months.


----------



## WoodBee

GoceKU said:


> Today i visited couple more machinery dealers, no luck finding a decent mill to buy but found couple of end mills to buy, also managed to buy new old euro aluminium socket, i'm missing one on my lathe you can see the holes in the electrical cabinet on the lathe, only bad thing the socket is blue, i need to prep it and paint it.
> View attachment 242755
> View attachment 242756
> View attachment 242757


Be glad it is only the socket. My whole lathe is blue....
Your socket would blend in perfectly. The upside is it was painted over without removing any gunk. Makes it quite easy to get most of the paint off again 
Good find though!
Peter


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## British Steel

WoodBee said:


> Be glad it is only the socket. My whole lathe is blue....
> Your socket would blend in perfectly. The upside is it was painted over without removing any gunk. Makes it quite easy to get most of the paint off again
> Good find though!
> Peter



Quite right, anyone knows it should be firetruck red....

When they painted over the gunk did they use an old carpet or. like they did on mine, did they use a dead dog?

Dave H. (the other one)


----------



## WoodBee

British Steel said:


> When they painted over the gunk did they use an old carpet or. like they did on mine, did they use a dead dog?
> 
> Dave H. (the other one)



What, they killed a dog to paint your lathe 
I hope they at least got the hairs out of the paint


----------



## BGHansen

Had a package show up from Shars; 24" single axis stainless steel scale/DRO that's headed to my Bridgeport.  My other vertical mill has a TPACtools 4-axis DRO on it and I've become accustomed to using the heck out of the Z-axis scale.  If facing off something, I mic the thickness to start with, run the table until the tool just about touches, then drop the spindle until the tool just touches.  Then set the Z-axis to the thickness of the material and make passes until I'm close to the final thickness.  Do a re-measurement and make the last pass.

My Bridgeport has a circa 1984 Anilam 2-axis CNC set up with no Z-axis scale, so, Shars got some business.  Appears to be a couple of different scales out there; this one ran just over $100 with shipping.  Shars also sells one for about half that price.  I couldn't see any obvious differences, but went with the more expensive one anyhow.  It's supposed to be accurate within 0.002" in the 24" range, and is IP54 certified for dust and water penetration.  I don't know how the technology works as it doesn't have a rack/pinion like a caliper, or a glass scale.  It says the scale is embedded in the stainless steel scale.  I know the quill scale on my Jet mill has a friction wheel that runs on the scale.

I'll mount the scale to the side of the column, but won't get it installed until another order shows up.  Ordered a Z-axis power feed for the Bridgeport also.  Hence, no Z-axis scale until that arrives and is installed.  Have only owned the Bridgeport for 2 weeks and am already complaining about cranking the table up/down.  The unit comes with mounting brackets for hooking the sliding reader to the knee, but I'll fab up my own once the Z-power feed shows up.  It does let you set the scale to any number so I'll be able to use it like my TPAC DRO although the digit setting is a little cumbersome.

Oh, love the instruction sheet.  Wish me luck on installing my "Digital Scale with Steel Deam".

Bruce


----------



## GoceKU

Today after work i got a call from one of the machinery dealers that i visited earlier in the week, telling me he has acquired an pristine machine in my price range, i turned around and was there in half an hour, and straight from the door i was disappointed, it was only a small horizontal mill with so much play in the side screw that was skipping and the table look like it was used like a target on the firing range, the seller quickly figure out what mistake he has made so he gifted me those two end mills and on my way back i stopped by a hardware shop and bought one more blow gun, two garages on blow gun makes for a lot of walking.


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## darkzero

darkzero said:


> Got me a practically brand new set of Mitutoyo gauge blocks for an awesome price! $1400 new, paid $350 shipped.
> 
> View attachment 241904



Ebay flash sale. My Mitu set is too nice to be used for everything so I got me a beater set. Made in China but brand new, grade AS-2. The Mitu set is AS-1. Pretty nice for only $65 shipped!


----------



## darkzero

I already have sets of the Cobras & Pliers Wrenches. I like them so much I got a set of the Minis during Zoro's last 25% off flash sale. I love Knipex!


----------



## retrojoe

Worked out a deal with a gentleman who was trying to get rid of the last of his father's estate. 269 arbor-mount cutters and enough inserts to last me a few lifetimes. A lot of the arbor-mount cutters are much, much too big for me but the agreement was I took them all for 1 price. He had some LARGE end mills as well but I didn't want to deal with more tools I couldn't use myself. Now I need to track down holders for the inserts; I could only find 1 parting holder.

His father was a machine repairman for Rockwell/Allen-Bradley as well as a mechanic. When he died his home-shop had two mills and 5 lathes. It's taken his son 5 years to sell through the last of his stuff.


----------



## GoceKU

Retrojoe, that a lot of cutters and inserts, you'll be spoiled for choice.


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## retrojoe

GoceKU said:


> Retrojoe, that a lot of cutters and inserts, you'll be spoiled for choice.



The largest cutter is 10" in diameter with a 1.5" arbor. My poor little Atlas mill can only handle 4" dia cutters. I'll try to unload the largest of them and save anything about 6" and smaller. I know I'll get a larger mill at some point but I just can't fathom needing a 10" x 1" tool (that's intended for aluminum only at that). Glancing at ebay it looks like I'm not the only one; these might take a while to move.


----------



## FOMOGO

Those cutters all appear to be in excellent, or new condition. Really nice score. Mike


----------



## Lordbeezer

Did some trading today and ended up with three more lathes for winter projects.early 10" Sheldon KS model with older dc motor and control box..model c south bend  and counter shaft Assy.missing tailstock.rusty.Dalton type B lot 4 .think 1918 model with change gears.all need some love and a bath..also 11" Sheldon stripped underdrive cabinet with bed..gotta take some pictures.wife says I'm a lathe whore..have 6 to clean up..never had more than 1 or 2..


----------



## fernballan

A Peedy and Three pallets with threaded tools and big center Punch 10-55mm


----------



## MozamPete

retrojoe said:


> The largest cutter is 10" in diameter with a 1.5" arbor. My poor little Atlas mill can only handle 4" dia cutters. .....



Sound like a good excuse for a mill upgrade


----------



## Alan H.

darkzero said:


> Ebay flash sale. My Mitu set is too nice to be used for everything so I got me a beater set. Made in China but brand new, grade AS-2. The Mitu set is AS-1. Pretty nice for only $65 shipped!
> 
> 
> View attachment 242946


Will, you have a good ref. for all the various grades?  Grade 2 vs 3, AS1 vs Grade 3?


----------



## retrojoe

MozamPete said:


> Sound like a good excuse for a mill upgrade



Would that I could. My current workshop packs in two motorcycles (mine); two Austrian mopeds (girlfriend's); my zero turn lawn mower (plus accessories); my floor drill press; a table saw (Unisaw); grinder; 12" disc sander plus assorted other items. All in a space about 10' x 25'. The Atlas has the benefit of easily fitting in my basement near my equally compact 7x14 mini lathe. 

I'm working on a garage and workshop design that will not only provide me with all of the space I need but also free up about 1/4 acre of land that is wasted due to the poor placement of my current garage. But first, I have a daughter arriving in December and I'm afraid but, happy, that she will postpone everything.


----------



## Zathros

retrojoe said:


> Would that I could. My current workshop packs in two motorcycles (mine); two Austrian mopeds (girlfriend's); my zero turn lawn mower (plus accessories); my floor drill press; a table saw (Unisaw); grinder; 12" disc sander plus assorted other items. All in a space about 10' x 25'. The Atlas has the benefit of easily fitting in my basement near my equally compact 7x14 mini lathe.
> 
> I'm working on a garage and workshop design that will not only provide me with all of the space I need but also free up about 1/4 acre of land that is wasted due to the poor placement of my current garage. But first, I have a daughter arriving in December and I'm afraid but, happy, that she will postpone everything.



Glad My kids spread their wings à couple of years ago.
What you’re affraid for happened to me.

On the other hand I Recomended to see it as à  challenge, it Will make life more beareble. I tried to make the kids aware that life cannot be always only them. And i always Pulles them in My diy work. Now they are Very self sufficiënt  something I see slowly fade away with Lots of their age.
 As for the space Well we dutch are Very good in rearranging small spaces to be Very usable and economic. We have to.

I had à few maten over from the states and Canada and they were all surprised how we handle space in general and often Very surprised how I managed that.

Grts.
Ted2


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## darkzero

Alan H said:


> Will, you have a good ref. for all the various grades?  Grade 2 vs 3, AS1 vs Grade 3?



Alan, nope not really. I just briefly looked at Wiki when I was buying my sets. It covers the basic equivalents. In the end I don't care much really. I'm just a hobby guy so I don't need the highest grades, price was more important to me. Those high grades get pretty expensive!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gauge_block#Grades


----------



## Alan H.

Thanks Will, the wiki page is helpful, thanks.   To be honest, I had seen that but didn't look at it deeply enough so thanks for causing me to do so. 

I am trying to decide what level to spend.  As you point out, I am not sure a hobbyist needs too much. 

Obviously the Mitutoyo are nicer than the cheapies.  Their hardness is such that a lightly used set may well be worth the incremental cost as compared to something like a new Shars set.  You can buy an 81 piece Shars set for~$90 delivered and that may be a fine solution.   BTW, the Shars set is a Grade B.


----------



## darkzero

Alan H said:


> Thanks Will, the wiki page is helpful, thanks.   To be honest, I had seen that but didn't look at it deeply enough so thanks for causing me to do so.
> 
> I am trying to decide what level to spend.  As you point out, I am not sure a hobbyist needs too much.
> 
> Obviously the Mitutoyo are nicer than the cheapies.  Their hardness is such that a lightly used set may well be worth the incremental cost as compared to something like a new Shars set.  You can buy an 81 piece Shars set for~$90 delivered and that may be a fine solution.   BTW, the Shars set is a Grade B.



When I was looking to buy my second set I was looking at either the HFS set or the CME set. The HFS set is the exact same one that Shars sells without the Shars name on it. I don't mind some Shars products but if I can find the same product without their branding on it I'd rather go with out their name on it. The HFS set is just slightly more at $89.99 shipped compared to $87.95 shipped for the Shars.

The CME set has slighty better tolerance, 50 millionths for the Shars/HFS, 30 millionths for the CME. I really didn't care since I have the Mitu set but with the nudge from a buddy here, it was a no brainer to get the CME set as it was also $10 cheaper, $79.50 shipped. I waited for a flash sale & got it for $64.50 shipped.

I've been waiting very patiently for a nice set of gauge blocks to pop up that I liked. Finally scored on the Mitu set. But it was too nice! If you're anything like me, if you find a nice set, you might just end up wanting to baby them too much & buy a second set like I did! Maybe I probably should have just bought the CME set to begin with & called it a day.  (nah)


----------



## woodchucker

darkzero said:


> When I was looking to buy my second set I was looking at either the HFS set or the CME set. The HFS set is the exact same one that Shars sells without the Shars name on it. I don't mind some Shars products but if I can find the same product without their branding on it I'd rather go with out their name on it. The HFS set is just slightly more at $89.99 shipped compared to $87.95 shipped for the Shars.
> 
> The CME set has slighty better tolerance, 50 millionths for the Shars/HFS, 30 millionths for the CME. I really didn't care since I have the Mitu set but with the nudge from a buddy here, it was a no brainer to get the CME set as it was also $10 cheaper, $79.50 shipped. I waited for a flash sale & got it for $64.50 shipped.
> 
> I've been waiting very patiently for a nice set of gauge blocks to pop up that I liked. Finally scored on the Mitu set. But it was too nice! If you're anything like me, if you find a nice set, you might just end up wanting to baby them too much & buy a second set like I did! Maybe I probably should have just bought the CME set to begin with & called it a day.  (nah)


If you can verify the set, that would be nice. Certs from China don't mean much to me. They just write what they want on some pieces. CME's rep is questionable too. So ring a few of your Mits and CMEs and see if they really are close to spec.  Would like to know if they are that good.


----------



## T Bredehoft

I was given a set, assembled from Gov't rejects 20 years ago. I couldn't find (with mikes) why they were rejected then, been using them ever since for set up, etc. some won't wring together, but they still mike OK.


----------



## darkzero

woodchucker said:


> If you can verify the set, that would be nice. Certs from China don't mean much to me. They just write what they want on some pieces. CME's rep is questionable too. So ring a few of your Mits and CMEs and see if they really are close to spec.  Would like to know if they are that good.



Certs from China have never meant anything to me either. I have no way of verifying the tolerance.... so what do you mean, so they are lying & not everything on the internet is true? 

The quality of them didn't matter to me much cause I have the Mitu set. As long as they wring should be fine for what I need. Price was the most important factor. I've purchased from CME a few times, can't complain on any of the stuff I got from them considering the prices.

Well I hope they wring. I'll test some of them & see how they do.


----------



## Alan H.

Will, looking forward to the report on the "wringing tests"!

I am curious, why do you dislike Shars' branding?


----------



## Bamban

OK, admiting ignorance, what does "wring" mean as it applies to gauge blocks?


----------



## RandyM

Bamban said:


> OK, admiting ignorance, what does "wring" mean as it applies to gauge blocks?



Here is a video that may help explain it.

Wringing Gauge Blocks


----------



## darkzero

Alan H said:


> Will, looking forward to the report on the "wringing tests"!



So I tested some random pieces. I didn't feel like taking all of them out of their wrappers & cleaning off the protective wax right now.

They wring. A few feel like they don't wring as tight to hold much heavier blocks but that doesn't matter to me. Could be that I just didn't clean them well enough but whatevers. On those ones I had to really align them well & put good pressure on them to wring with that really tight feel like my Mitu ones. But many of them do seem to wring tight. Tight or not, at least all the ones I've tested so far do wring. Plenty good enough for what I bought this import set for & I can't complain for the price. There's a reason why there's sets that cost well over a thousand & much higher. Makes you wonder how they can even sell these for so cheap.

I would say, if you really need gauge blocks for professional or inspection work, buy a quality set & take care of them. Again, I'm just a hobby guy, I could live without them. I'll be using this import set for setup which may not be often as I imagine but now that I have them I may just find myself using them whenever I can.


----------



## Alan H.

My brand new Mitutoyo micrometer stand.




Price was too high for Chinesium but the paint job is nice though!  I think Mitutoyo is farming the brand a bit on the pricing for these.   Glad I bought it on a Zoro flash deal.


----------



## Ulma Doctor

4 Beautifully cared for Vintage Ames 282 Dial Indicators, (.001")
 $50 shipped


----------



## woodchucker

darkzero said:


> Certs from China have never meant anything to me either. *I have no way of verifying the tolerance*.... so what do you mean, so they are lying & not everything on the internet is true?
> 
> The quality of them didn't matter to me much cause I have the Mitu set. As long as they wring should be fine for what I need. Price was the most important factor. I've purchased from CME a few times, can't complain on any of the stuff I got from them considering the prices.
> 
> Well I hope they wring. I'll test some of them & see how they do.



you do have a way, consider the mit set your master, test that against your Chinese set.  so ring the mit, then do the same for the Chinese set, and validate.  do a few different block configs randomly. Don't reuse the same block unless you find your off and want to find out which one.


----------



## bfk

A couple of purchases from eBay.
About 30 end mills. All in very good condition, mostly American made, some still with wax coating. A few bullnose a couple v shaped.
About 70 reamers, again mostly American made. At least a dozen countersink, from #6 screw up to too big for my little Sherline. Four expanding types. All seem to have seen little use.
Overall about a buck a piece.


----------



## T Bredehoft

Good buy. I've tried to find them, don't often find them.


----------



## darkzero

woodchucker said:


> you do have a way, consider the mit set your master, test that against your Chinese set.  so ring the mit, then do the same for the Chinese set, and validate.  do a few different block configs randomly. Don't reuse the same block unless you find your off and want to find out which one.



Ok, when I get a chance I'll unwrap & clean all the Chinese ones & test them out. I'm not sure what that is going to tell me though cause the Mitu it set is one grade higher. Not a fair comparison no? For a fair comparison I should have both sets in the same grade?


----------



## woodchucker

darkzero said:


> Ok, when I get a chance I'll unwrap & clean all the Chinese ones & test them out. I'm not sure what that is going to tell me though cause the Mitu it set is one grade higher. Not a fair comparison no? For a fair comparison I should have both sets in the same grade?


I'm hoping it'll tell you how accurate your set is it will show you the tolerances whether they're met or not yes you should expect some off but within the tolerance, right?


----------



## British Steel

Not today, yesterday - my small (1.5 HP direct drive, 24L / 5-gallon tank) compressor finally gave up due to overuse, picked up a "spares or repairs" replacement on EvilBay as it was a) cheap and b) just down the road.




Not big, not clever, 100L / 25 gallon tank, parallel twin compressor, 2.5 HP (at a guess) but a step up from the burnt-out one and looks like all it needs is a replacement run capacitor as the original had exploded (so far...) and some fittings. I'll hunt up a better intake filter to quieten the inevitable noise a little!

Dave H. (the other one)


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited the local flea market, i bought the typical shop consumptives, like carbide inserts, cutting oil, and bought those two electrical pliers the ones i have broke last week, other thing i bought was this tapered reamer and this square handle or extension its 9 mm square, not sure what is meant to be used for.


----------



## darkzero

Been trying to get one of these for a while now, finally I got one at an awesome price. Just my luck too, popped up the day after I lost the bid for a used one. BNIB for $288 shipped. 








Got me a new Facom hacksaw. Facom hacksaws are pretty expensive compared to others but I like them for some reason. Thanks to ebay I finally got one for a good price. My old one has served me well, nothing wrong with it, I just wanted to try the new version since I wanted a second hacksaw.





Older 603E next to the newer 603F


----------



## GoceKU

Today I've been all over town looking for M8 x 0,75 taping die, i also bought this die handle, looks like older good quality tool, it came also with an sharp M8 std die. The M8 x 0.75 tap was 3 times the price of the tool holder.


----------



## darkzero

I've been wanting to replace the sloppy stock chuck on my cheap lil Craftsman benchtop drill press. I wanted something better but couldn't justify spending 2/3 to even more than what the whole drill press cost.

Thanks to another Ebay flash sale, got me a brand new Accupro chuck made by Llambrich Spain for $41 shipped.





Original chuck measured .0025" runout at best if I fiddle with it. Actually better than I thought, this is the first time I ever measured it.




Spindle taper measured about .0004".




Now here's the shocker, the Llambrich/Accupro chuck measured about .0007"! That's better than the chucks I use on my mill! Llambrich is known for their low runout on their chucks but I totally did not expect this on one of their ecomony chucks! That's nice but doesn't mean much since this drill press still has cheap sloppy spindle bearings. Well at least it makes me feel better.




They make great quality chucks & not a lot of people are familiar with them. I've seen videos online of people measuring them showing almost no runout at all but I never thought anything about it. If & when I need a new chuck I'm definitely getting me a Llambrich.


----------



## mmcmdl

Bought a chrome grill for the 93 K1500 Blazer I'm restoring after being off the road for 4 years . Not machine shop related , but my shop related !


----------



## ddickey

I bought a new Rohm chuck today. I think I got a killer deal. Maybe not. D1-5 mount 3J. Shipped to my door $250.


----------



## Lordbeezer

Picked up a used small 12 ton imported press and a tubing bender.gotta find directions on how to use it..


----------



## MonkMan

Found a very nice adjustable pin wrench.  came with 8 pin sizes. Also got a seven wheel tubing straightening tool. Now I can finish op my MAXLINE air installation.


----------



## fernballan

Got my new machine today Payd five Swedish kronor. Eight kronor is one dollar I bought it for fifty cents!!!! It was sold at an auction that never sells machines







Skickat från min F3111 via Tapatalk


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## dlane

50. Cent machine , ied like to see it but your using tapatalk and have not read how to upload tapatalk pics to this site


fernballan said:


> Got my new machine today Payd five Swedish kronor. Eight kronor is one dollar I bought it for fifty cents!!!! It was sold at an auction that never sells machines
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skickat från min F3111 via Tapatalk


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## fernballan

fernballan said:


> Got my new machine today Payd five Swedish kronor. Eight kronor is one dollar I bought it for fifty cents!!!! It was sold at an auction that never sells machines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> Skickat från min F3111 via Tapatalk


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## fernballan

Sorry Tapatalk


----------



## FOMOGO

That's I believe, the deal of the month. Cant wait to see it up and munching metal. Cheers, Mike


----------



## woodchucker

MonkMan said:


> View attachment 244025
> View attachment 244026
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found a very nice adjustable pin wrench.  came with 8 pin sizes. Also got a seven wheel tubing straightening tool. Now I can finish op my MAXLINE air installation.


I like that pin wrench. Wish mine had replaceable tips. Sometimes too big, sometimes too small, rarely the correct size...


----------



## BGHansen

I really like my "new to me" Bridgeport, but quickly got tired of cranking the knee up and down.  Something like having to turn the crank 40 times to move the table 4" gets old really fast!  Ordered an Asong Z-axis power feed from All Industrial Tool.  Really happy to see the UPS man with this one!  I'll submit a separate thread with the installing (already done), it was a bit of an adventure.

Bruce


----------



## darkzero

woodchucker said:


> I like that pin wrench. Wish mine had replaceable tips. Sometimes too big, sometimes too small, rarely the correct size...



That pin wrench looks just like the Stanley Facom one. Anything Facom is expensive.

EDIT: With a closer look it looks it does say Facom on it, I can make out the Facom logo for sure.


----------



## Alan H.

Ordered two ER40 collet blocks from Arceurotrade.  They appear well made - Chinesium of course but with the corresponding price.   I sprung for a ball bearing cap since it was quite inexpensive.  It is not the same quality as a Maritool cap but it's okay.

These blocks appear to be better made than some 5c blocks I bought off Amazon.  I am betting their 5C blocks would be a good thing to have.

It is amazing they show up from the UK in 4 days or less and the shipping is reasonable.


----------



## Alan H.

UPS man just brought this from my Amazon Prime order.  As always, Amazon delivered it in a big hurry but it was a  $44.28 dollar *lesson*.


----------



## darkzero

Alan H said:


> It is amazing they show up from the UK in 4 days or less and the shipping is reasonable.



Ah, they must be getting slow. 

Mine arrived in just 1 business day by FedEx. I was shocked!


----------



## mksj

Alan H said:


> UPS man just brought this from my Amazon Prime order. As always, Amazon delivered it in a big hurry but it was a $44.28 dollar *lesson*



Also learned the same lesson the hard way when I was using the rapid power feed button and went the wrong way. I bought two replacement styluses figuring if it happened once, it will probably happen again. These days when I use my Haimer, it is always two hands and I never use the table power feeds when it is chucked up. Also super careful with the keyless chuck, and wrong twist and it will drop to the table. At least the Haimer has a breakaway stylus that is user replaceable, other manufactures they need to be sent back to the factory at much greater cost. You will also need to recheck the stylus alignment after the sytlus is replaced.


----------



## Alan H.

Yes, Mark.  I bought two!

One from Amazon and one from ebay (slow boat).  I needed one in a hurry so I paid the Amazon premium to get it faster.


----------



## Firestopper

fernballan said:


> Sorry Tapatalk


Whats the tonnage rating on that punch press? Smoking deal


----------



## MonkMan

darkzero said:


> That pin wrench looks just like the Stanley Facom one. Anything Facom is expensive.
> 
> EDIT: With a closer look it looks it does say Facom on it, I can make out the Facom logo for sure.


You are correct sir, good eyes. I had never heard of this company before.


----------



## darkzero

MonkMan said:


> You are correct sir, good eyes. I had never heard of this company before.



They are a French company & have been around for a while. Not very popular in the US besides those who are Eurpoean vehicles enthusiast. They're quite expensive & in my opinion some of their tools look noveltyish or too fancy. I do own a couple of their hacksaws though & like them a lot. Expensive though, made in France.

They used to own SK Tools & Facom is now owned by the Stanley Black & Decker group. They used sell Ferrari branded tools. Not sure if they were the official supplier of hand tools for Ferrari though. These days it's Beta Tools that Ferrari uses.


----------



## Silverbullet

woodchucker said:


> Same here I leant out my makita 4.5 grinder. it came back with the aluminum head cracked, the lock broken and the thing covered in black goo.
> My friend then went and bought a new one for himself, and returned mine in shreds.
> 
> I didn't get that.  He thought nothing of it.  He kinda got upset when I went WTF.
> 
> I bought a HF unit because I was unemployed at the time.  Seems to work good. I miss the makita though. Might go for a Makita 7" .. I always return it in good shape, or I buy them a new one, and keep the old.  I just don't get people who think it's my job to clean it, or replace it.


The reason I won't lend tools at all. I've rented some with large enough deposit to cover replacement . That way I'm covered if they don't like it , they can buy there own. I spend my money on tools cause it's my joy. My shops full of every kind. I don't drink or smoke even don't full around . My wife's for that pleasure and always will be.


----------



## Silverbullet

Me was tempted and gave into it. Seems there's these broaching sets at super fanominal cost for a 10a set. Bolton tools is selling the set for $31.88 + $9.00 shipping. A posting on here peaked my interest and led me into the paths of purchase. 
So they'll be coming at some point. I'm out of cash but something will come up to get the money to pay the bill. I made $8.50 last Tuesday while I was out to the hospital , did them up before going back in the house of pain. Sharpened the blades after cleaning , lube the joint after adjusting and replaced two rubber bumpers with what I had around. It should have been a twenty buck job but need happy customers to keep them.
Give a little prayer on Wednesday morning I go for a out patient surgery. Next will be mris. God I'm tired


----------



## darkzero

Man do I feel like I got one heck of a deal only paying $8.75 on Amazon!


----------



## MonkMan

darkzero said:


> They are a French company & have been around for a while. Not very popular in the US besides those who are Eurpoean vehicles enthusiast. They're quite expensive & in my opinion some of their tools look noveltyish or too fancy. I do own a couple of their hacksaws though & like them a lot. Expensive though, made in France.
> 
> They used to own SK Tools & Facom is now owned by the Stanley Black & Decker group. They used sell Ferrari branded tools. Not sure if they were the official supplier of hand tools for Ferrari though. These days it's Beta Tools that Ferrari uses.


Thanks for the information
Paul


----------



## GoceKU

Last weekend i visited couple of tool and flea markets, there wasn't too much good tools, more woodworking stuff but in between i found this used deburring tool seems like good quality, then i found this metal scraping round ruler, and i found about 10 meters to this 3/4 by 3/4 square plastic material, it was half the price then the cheap plastics i'm buying for turning in the lathe, looks like teflon or naylon, will come in handy for future project.


----------



## Alan H.

I have been looking to get a decent gage block set for several months and finally landed a Mitutoyo set.  It is in excellent shape, wrings nicely, and it is one of my better eBay snags.  It came in the original Mitutoyo orange box with the wooden box tucked in its original plastic bag and with all the paperwork.

I got it all cleaned up and wiped down with Boeshield.


----------



## Ken from ontario

I almost  ran out of my Tap Magic tapping oil so I thought I should try a different type, ended up buying a bottle of "Extra thick"  by tap magic, tried it this afternoon on some hot rolled and cold rolled rods, it is a great product,it is is  really thick, almost like cold honey  so the oil doesn't get thrown all over  my face or shirt like it did with the thinner oil.


----------



## darkzero

Ken from ontario said:


> I almost  ran out of my Tap Magic tapping oil so I thought I should try a different type, ended up buying a bottle of "Extra thick"  by tap magic, tried it this afternoon on some hot rolled and cold rolled rods, it is a great product,it is is  really thick, almost like cold honey  so the oil doesn't get thrown all over  my face or shirt like it did with the thinner oil.
> View attachment 244599



I have that same size bottle of it too. I put some in a Spillmaster. I don't use it in the winter time, it gets way too thick & I live in sunny Socal where it doesn't get cold. Good stuff but still not a replacement for the EP Xtra that I use more. I use Boelube the most but that stuff is crazy expensive. I have 2 gallons which will last me a very long time but when I run out I doubt I will buy more unless the price comes down or if Enco magically reopens.


----------



## Ken from ontario

darkzero said:


> I have that same size bottle of it too. I put some in a Spillmaster. *I don't use it in the winter time*, it gets way too thick & I live in sunny Socal where it doesn't get cold. Good stuff but still not a replacement for the EP Xtra that I use more. I use Boelube the most but that stuff is crazy expensive. I have 2 gallons which will last me a very long time but when I run out I doubt I will buy more unless the price comes down or if Enco magically reopens.


I just thought about our winters over here, lol.it'll be rock solid.


----------



## darkzero

Ken from ontario said:


> I just thought about our winters over here, lol.it'll be rock solid.



Haha! I'm still able to use it & clings onto the workpiece even better but it's kind of a pain in the butt. Slows me down & seems wasteful. It's gets thick like cold honey for me. I wonder if it gets even thicker in colder climates or if it just gets to a certain viscocity & stays that way.


----------



## darkzero

Got me a new set of BFG KO2s for my truck. Won't need em until probably early next year but the deal was too good pass up. I paid $160 less than what my last set cost me.

If anyone needs tires, Discount Tires Direct is having a sale on ebay right now. $100 off $400+, good for wheels & tires, expires 10/30. https://www.ebay.com/rpp/4887?_trkparms=&clkid=8318475479999088340

Unfortunately the coupon this time is limited to 1 use per account. In the past if your tires cost more than $200 each, you could buy 2 with $100 off, then purchase another 2 with $100 off.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i bought couple of tools, first was this highly used carbide insert boring bar, first i thought someone has destroyed it but checked it is not bent and has surprisingly good quality, then i found this Somet indicator, there were couple more but this was only one with a round stem for attaching, and both are at a decent price.


----------



## darkzero

Scored me a set of extra long 0° offset box wrenches in mint condition. I love these wrenches! When I worked in automotive I used to always borrow these from my co-workor/mentor & I've always wanted my own set but couldn't justify the price for them new.


----------



## 682bear

Needs a lot of cleaning, but seems to be very tight....

Its been used primarily as a drill press the last few years.

-Bear


----------



## richl

90 degree and 45 degree double bevel cutters, bought the 7 of them on ebay as a group. 1" arbor


----------



## Aukai

Got Amazon Prime shipping for a 60 lb belt sander. They no longer list it for Prime shipping. I has been shipped, I thought they may cancel it.


----------



## uncle harry

An Ellis 1600 band saw came up on Milwaukee Craigs list.  I called  & was told that I could see it today between 9:00 and 3:00. The price was $ 650.
I got there @ 8:45 only to find out that he sold it last night. So I browsed over the other items available & selected several items;  1 set of 3/32 parallels, 1 set adjustable parallels (Japan), 1 3"boring head 3/4 straight shank with 3/4 boring bar set mfg. unknown, 1 Mitutoyo 12" dial caliper with cracked ctystal. 1 Huot 1/16 to 1/2 drill cabinet poulated with drills about 40%, 1 box of U.S made wrenches including Husky etc., 1 assortment of Silver & Deming Drills 1 1/2" on down-about a dozen, and a small U.S. made small tap & die set whose dies are approx. 3/4 dia. All of these for    $ 170.  The trip was worth my  time after all.


----------



## T Bredehoft

I attended the Hobby Modeler's meet at Zanesville Ohio.  Lots of really neat models, steam, Internal comustion, Sterling, Hit and Miss, V8, what have you. Musta been a couple hundred models, most in absolutely beautiful condition, shiny paint, brass, steel, highly polished wood bases, etc. I'm not a modeler, so I just gawked.  I did browse the vendors, though. coulda bought a million dividers, 6" scales, many drill chucks, mikes.  I did find one Albrecht 0 to 3/8" chuck, it followed me home, $30.00. Also a bunch of (4) HSS 3/8 lathe tools, 3 pieces of 1 1/4 6160 alum (these seven for $1. ea. and a nine piece selection of 12" 12/L14 round stock, one each 3/16 to 1".  $14.00, that's less than shipping on any one of them.
Yeah, heres's a picture. None of the stock is for an imminent project, but we always need stuff to make things from. Oh Yeah, I fought off an Atlas shaper, bench size.  Couldn't rationalize it.


----------



## bss1

I have been looking for a used Millermatic 210 or 212 with spool gun for about 5 years.  I’ve had a Hobart 180 for about ten years but have had the hankering to upgrade for a while. Not many come on the local used market and the ones that came up, I was either too late or they were not in good shape. They seem to go quick around here for some reason. I had only seen a few and none with a two cylinder rack. Well today was finally my day. I found the listing early, and the asking price turned out to be reasonable. I made contact with the seller and completed the sale early in the day.  It was a home/hobby use unit with spool gun and was in great shape. It came equipped with the two cylinder rack with two 120 cf tanks fully charged!  It also had been upgraded with a Bernard MiG gun and also came with the original Miller M25 gun as well (unused).  Also included were some misc tips and a 30 lb roll of .35 steel wire and a 30 lb roll of .35 stainless wire.  I usually run .30 so I’m not sure if .35 is a better fit for this machine.



 Now all I have to do is learn to weld like Firestopper!


----------



## BGHansen

I'm going to be adding a riser block to my Bridgeport, so am starting to accumulate the stuff needed to make a power draw bar.  Used a 20% off coupon from HF to pick up a 1/2" 110V impact wrench.  Most guys use a 3/8" butterfly air powered, but I don't want to have to listen to my compressor cycling as it sets about 3 feet from the mill (for now).  I'll detail the build of the power draw bar in a thread once I get started.

Also picked up a universal chuck key.  I have a number of chucks for the BP and was getting tired of fumbling for the correct key and swapping them between my three mills.

Lastly, received a toe-clamp (terminology?) kit from Shars.  Don't have an application for it yet, but sold some stuff on eBay and had money burning a hole in my pocket.


----------



## bss1

New old stock JACOBS 18N super chuck made Hartford Connecticut!


----------



## richl

I got a few things from our wonderful postal service today!


Ebay purchase 8 90 degree and 45 degree mill cutters. Group purchase.



Nmtb30 3/4" she'll mill, and nmtb30 to mt3 toolholders, ebay group purchase.


Amazon purchases



Last night's shop dinner, zitti pizza slices , I did have to clean it up this morning, so it was kinda today lol


----------



## richl

Another delivery from our wonderful postal service


Hole punches, metric and standard
Drill gauge
Metric and standard screw/bolt gauge
Thread gauge

Kinda a theme here, some items I have several of already, just can never find one when I need them, the others will help me when setting up new shop made tooling.

Rich


----------



## bl00

Rich, I think I had those NMTB30's open in a browser window.  At least know I know where they went.  Here's what I got today from ebay.  NMTB 30 Lyndex endmill holders.


----------



## rjredline

An antique radius cutter.


----------



## f350ca

Won a government auction bid on a 12 inch Di-Arco shear. They're pretty proud of these, $2700 new. This one looks like new aside from some surface rust on the table. The knives are sharp and don't look like they've ever been flipped or turned, (4 cutting edges). Tried some .036 sheet steel, beautiful burr free cut, even slices paper.



Greg


----------



## Atlascycle

Was not today, hope to have it in my shop next week..


----------



## Firestopper

bss1 said:


> I have been looking for a used Millermatic 210 or 212 with spool gun for about 5 years.  I’ve had a Hobart 180 for about ten years but have had the hankering to upgrade for a while. Not many come on the local used market and the ones that came up, I was either too late or they were not in good shape. They seem to go quick around here for some reason. I had only seen a few and none with a two cylinder rack. Well today was finally my day. I found the listing early, and the asking price turned out to be reasonable. I made contact with the seller and completed the sale early in the day.  It was a home/hobby use unit with spool gun and was in great shape. It came equipped with the two cylinder rack with two 120 cf tanks fully charged!  It also had been upgraded with a Bernard MiG gun and also came with the original Miller M25 gun as well (unused).  Also included were some misc tips and a 30 lb roll of .35 steel wire and a 30 lb roll of .35 stainless wire.  I usually run .30 so I’m not sure if .35 is a better fit for this machine.
> 
> View attachment 244836
> 
> Now all I have to do is learn to weld like Firestopper!


 Hahah! I been practicing since 1978 and burned a ton as a young slave for the US Navy. Very nice machine you found. Looks new and well cared for. The machine won't care what wire you feed it so long as you use the correct wire feed tension rollers. Usually flipped, one side grooves is for .030 and other side for .035. What spool gun you running? I run the M25 whip vs the larger heavier BernardTM Q300 MIG gun.  I will use it for prolonged high amperage demand. I love the 30A spoolmatic gun, It can lay nice beads.
Congrats on your upgrade amigo!
Paco


----------



## Groundhog

bss1,
We had a Miller 210 at the ski area. We ran flux core 7018 with shielding gas for the high strength steel sno-cat frame repairs, spool gun for aluminum grooming tiller repairs, straight flux core for ski lift repairs (wherever we could transform 480 3 phase to 230 single phase from snowmaking power), on and on. Out of 4 welders that machine was the go-to machine whenever possible. Since you have been looking for one you already know the pros and (the few) cons. A pretty nice machine. Wish I had one in my personal shop.


----------



## Firestopper

Our local Industrial Metal Supply (IMS) store is celebrating five year anniversary (in Tucson) today and tomorrow with 20% off all store items and 50% off all remnants. 
Picked up 2",1.5",1.375",1" x 12" CR,1" x 36" T6 aluminum, and 3/4" x 30" A-1. Also grabbed two Shaviv de-burring tools.
Saved over $40


----------



## wlburton

richl said:


> 90 degree and 45 degree double bevel cutters, bought the 7 of them on ebay as a group. 1" arbor
> View attachment 244759


richl--

I have quite a few cutters of various kinds that came with my Atlas mill and, as a beginner, I have a couple of questions that I hope you might be able to answer, since it looks like you may be buying used cutters.  I believe mine are all used, and my first question is: how can I determine if they need to be sharpened?  All the ones I've tried do cut metal, but I don't have enough experience to know if they're cutting as well as they should.  A few have chipped teeth and I've discarded them, but most look pretty good.  The second question follows from the first: where can you get cutters like this sharpened, and is it cost effective to do so?  If you or anyone else has any input on this I would appreciate it!

Bill Burton


----------



## dlane

Wlburton, you might try asking that question in the questions or beginner  sub form ,


----------



## wlburton

dlane said:


> Wlburton, you might try asking that question in the questions or beginner  sub form ,


Good idea.  Thanks.


----------



## LarryTheKing

Atlascycle said:


> View attachment 245208
> 
> Was not today, hope to have it in my shop next week..



Wow, does that have servos on both the quill and the knee?


----------



## BGHansen

Picked up a 7" riser block for my Bridgeport.  Gonna make the tightening and loosening the draw bar a step stool job, but have plans on making a power draw bar anyhow.  Next step will be picking up some 13" 1/2"-13 grade 8 bolts.  Then will pull the head/ram with my gantry crane and let my BP stand tall(er) and proud.  Gonna be nice to get the table up to a higher working height.  I was close to bottoming the table with a Kurt swivel vise, ER32 collet chuck and a co-ax indicator mounted.

Bruce


----------



## Bamban

Did not buy today, but the 1st time to use it today when I set the SBL 13. It is a handy guy, a very heavy one. It was listed on CL for 200, I offered 100, seller took it. It maybe overpriced, but I think it is better built than those $120 Chinese specials on eBay.


----------



## Atlascycle

LarryTheKing said:


> Wow, does that have servos on both the quill and the knee?


Larry,
the knee is manual, I hope to have in in my shop by the weekend. it weighs in at 4000# and my shop door is only 6'-6" tall

It has a 5hp motor and a cat 40 spindle. Now i need CAT 40 Tool holders!!

Jason


----------



## Firestopper

So I broke out the Syncrowave 250 DX to set up for welding the aluminum drawer for the Lathe/Mill tooling cart build. When I turned on the power the cooling system blew at the feed line and ****** antifreeze from three places..
The weld craft WP-20 torch has fixed cooling lines so cutting and re-crimping was not an option. I called around and found an upgrade  (CS310-25) for $584. What the heck, thats stupid money. I asked the young man on the other end of the phone if I could get a break since I had an account with Airgas (used to be Pima welding) since 1989, he giggled and stated that was the year he was born and quickly re quoted a more reasonable price of $288. The CS310-25 is 25' long and the torch itself can be changed out with other types of torches such as swivel or flexable style torches.
I also noticed the filler cap gasket disintegrated upon opening the poly tank. I sucked out the old coolant and small gasket pieces and headed to Airgas. He gave me the coolant at $24/gal. which is ten bucks cheaper than anyone else in town. While I was there, he talked me into trying out some non radio active tungsten (E-3). insidently, Miller doesn't offer the gasket alone and sells the entire filler cap. I think I have new wrinkles on my forehead after this unscheduled expensive repair. 

Todays purchase: The short return hose was not included with the new torch. The young man noticed the wrinkled forehead and gave it to me.



Back in business holding/cerculating coolant.


Being the cheap Bast%#d I am, I decided to make a new gasket from some 1/8" neoprene rubber I keep on the shelf.
I used a scrap piece of aluminum that had the exact diameter I needed and traced it with a razor blade.


Punched the center out as its a vented cap.


The jury is still out on the new E-3 Tungsten. I ran four open corner test pieces and played with the balance (clean/penetration) adjustment. 
The numbers are the setting for each weld. .100" aluminum, filler rod .063" E-3 Tungsten 1/16" and 75 amps. 
I normally use 2% Lanthanated Tungsten. Its a good stable all around electrode.






I'm a Knucklehead, It turns out I only had ONE aluminum filler rod. I took a quick glance prior to heading over to Airgas and saw a full sleeve of shiny rod, Turns out it was Stainless filler rod. Lots of mad faces today, but tomorrows a new day.
Keep the shiny side up.
Paco


----------



## richl

Supplies,
Getting ready to demo another wall, sheet rock,  6" studs, Osb plywood, insulation



Another group of projects I'll be working on, handle for the mill, a number of handles for the lathe. The 10"x1 1/2" aluminium plate is for the rotary table to mount the 8" chuck to, it cost 25.00 on ebay and not much to ship,  the 2"x12" round is for the knobs and dials on my mill and lathe


----------



## rzbill

Argghhh!  I was scanning craigslist today and saw a Volstro in the Raleigh area.  Used to use one in the 80's.
Of course it was mounted to a Bridgeport.  I don't have a BP at the house.  Doubt I could make it fit.  Ratzl Fratzl.....


----------



## BGHansen

Picked up a few items from eBay and Grizzly.  First was an impulse buy on eBay for a set of LH drill bits.  Didn't have any and at $20 including shipping are probably not the greatest, but hopefully won't be a daily use tool anyhow.  Curious drill case with the door hinged on the RH side instead of the LH side and the large bits to the front instead of the back.  Could be my imagination, but I'm used to seeing hinge on the LH side and the smaller bits to the front.  Maybe a designed in error proofing so you don't grab them by mistake.  The bits look sharp and at least have the tips ground in the right direction.

Nice surprise when the $100 including shipping off eBay Blake co-ax box got opened.  It had the spring-loaded center finding attachment under the Blake itself.  Around $40 for that piece alone.  I have a Shars which works, but it's off and when I'm on center still fluctuates about 0.010" on the dial.  Checked it by spot drilling a hole with the table locked, then inserted the Shars in a collet; should be dead on center.  Put the center finding attachment in the spot drilled hole and had the 0.010" wobble.  Initially thought my spindle was bad, but it does the same thing on my Jet mill, Bridgeport, drill press and two BP's at work.  We'll see what I get with the Blake.  Figured buying the Blake is like the old saying "nobody ever got fired for buying IBM".

Lastly, a DPDT rated at 3 HP 220 V ON/OFF switch from Grizzly that'll end up on my BP.  My BP has a static phase converter and is wired so the high/low speed switch is not an ON/OFF switch.  The machinist I bought it from had wired the phase converter with a DPDT regular house light toggle switch.  It works fine, but just looks "cheesy" to me.  Need to mount this in an electrical box and screw it to the phase converter; POTD in a day or two.

Bruce


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited couple of tool makets, there was a lot old machinist tools, but they were all in very bad shape, after looking for hours i only bought this aluminium carpenters knife and this metric tap set with handle, there are couple of decent taps, the rest are only good for cleaning treads.


----------



## xman_charl

bought 7 of these from surplus center, $7 dollars each.
1 inch dia on big end.
checked it out on my lathe and welder, welds and machines okay..
think axels are 4130, seems a little harder than 1102
use will be mainly for arbors on my lathes










Charl


----------



## bfk

Vintage Sears Craftsman Kromedge Tap and Die set. Gentleman was downsizing, said he bough it new and only used it twice. Looks new. Date on the booklet is 1978. Says it's "Tool Steel", but it's hard enough to defy my files. $80.
	

		
			
		

		
	




Saw The Mentor at a church sale, History of Iron and Steel from 1918. Another dollar squandered.


----------



## killswitch505

For a future project


----------



## Lordbeezer

Picked up a postel die filer at local habitat store.very heavy for its size.few nice oil cans.few Eagles on local cl.


----------



## hman

Durn!  You've got a much better Habitrail store than I've seen, either in Oregon or here in the Phoenix area.  Congrats!!!


----------



## Firestopper

I placed a bid on publicsurpluss.com for a Chicago Dries&Krump 72" finger brake rated for 14 gauge mild steel. Well I won the bid and headed to Gilbert Az this morning after shift. I took some cribbing and rigging items to get the heavy brake loaded onto the dump trailer. The guy was kind enough to use their forklift but reminded me that its up to the buyer to arrange moving and loading. The brake was already outside when I arrived and I noticed they had forked it from the bottom portion of the upper beam clamp. The upper clamp came loose from the rear adjuster, nothing appeared to be bent on visual but damn that was a dumb move. I removed all the fingers and lighten the load a little, Then rigged it with soft straps and shackles and finally a rigging chain. I ran a solid 2" X 3" bar across the forks and used large C-clamps to secure the rig. The rigging chain has two hooks on each end and opposite of the hooks the chain (welded 3/8") terminated into a large 5/8" welded oval. The bar was run through the oval allowing the chains to be shortened through the shackles and hooked to the oval.  The sides on the trailer are tall and his forklift was a single stage mast.
Once loaded I used all of the larger straps I normally carry on the truck. I also brought a bunch of edge protectors to keep the load from coming loose for the 130 mile ride home.

Here you can see the rear portion (mouse hole) that should rest or straddle the large adjusting round bar. You can also notice the rather large gap between the upper beam clamp and the bending apron.  The big A$$  threaded rod that connects to the clamping lever is what prevented complete separation. Nothing was cracked, bent or damaged to the naked eye but I was very disappointed as I own the machine since yesterday. The bad thing about actions is once you pay thats it, done deal. The right rear crank lever is bent and the left lever is makeshift POS.
I did not express my displeasure with the way the machine was moved out , but after he saw it rigged and hanging ready for the trailer he realized he's is a bonehead. So the machine need some TLC, but I know a guy.  The ride home was long as I was on 2-2.5 hours of sleep from a busy night, any way she's home now. Too tired to unload it today, it will have to wait until Thursday morning after shift.
The fingers where loaded into the truck bed on a rubber matt to keep them from getting dinged up. 


Made it home.


The fingers are in remarkable shape for an old machine. I only noticed one (6") finger that had evidence of some knucklehead bending rod, other wise a beautiful 1/8" radius on all fingers.
It looks like Its short one 2" finger, not bad. The fingers are worth some money.
4-2",2-3",2-4",3-5" and 4-6" fingers. The surface rust will come off rather easy. The lone 1" finger looks shop made.


My plan is to unload the machine and reconnect the upper beam and check operation and bend quality. I'm hoping nothing is "sprung" and any fine tuning can be achieved with the three tensioning members and shims. If it proves not to be a boat anchor,  I will completely tear it apart, sand blast and repaint. I will also upgrade the rear cranks.
Worst case scenario, I could sell the fingers and make money for my efforts as fingers are hard to come by, but I'm hoping for the best outcome.
Gona give Dreis&Krump a call tomorrow and see what the serial number reveals. Also check on a IPB and manual.


Close up of the upper section that need to be reseated to the adjuster.


Sorry for the long story, but everyone should know how to pick/lift a brake.
Paco


----------



## dlane

Nice Paco, what do those go for out there ?.


----------



## richl

Got this from the ups truck today. I purchased this on ebay, mt4 Royal live center, it's a monster, very heavy and long.



Enjoy
Rich


----------



## richl

Double post


----------



## Firestopper

dlane said:


> Nice Paco, what do those go for out there ?.


Thanks dlane,
I got into a bidding war (sort of) with some pawn shop. My max bid (proxy style bidding) was $1599.99. I was limited to four crappy photos and didn't have the time to drive out to Gilbert to preview (by appointment only) prior to bidding so I took a chance. 
Heres the actual screen shot of the results. It came close to my max bid.
I did have to pay tax (the man always gets his ) and a processing fee. total was $1560.86 and $25.00 in diesel.



I'm very hopeful its not "sprung" and when its all said and done should be worth $6-8K (with some TLC). It should compliment the 8' x 12 gauge leaf brake we have. Used equipment in AZ fetch a bit of dough due to zero rust issues.


----------



## Firestopper

richl said:


> Got this from the ups truck today. I purchased this on ebay, mt4 Royal live center, it's a monster, very heavy and long.
> View attachment 246262
> 
> 
> Enjoy
> Rich



Royal.....now thats the cats meow! very nice indeed.


----------



## richl

I should have put a tape next to it when I took the picture, it's a beast!!! Even after tax and shipping it was less than 100.00 I am completely thrilled with this purchase


----------



## Alan H.

Received two Germans and a Chinese (EDIT) Taiwanese today.   All brand new and never put on a spindle.   Bought the package deal on ebay for a nice price. 

The Albrecht 100-J2 and the Roehm Supra-1 are really nice and are 3/8" capacity.  They are smooth as glass and will be used for small bits since both they start at zero.  Of course the Albrecht is at the top of the heap.  I will use the Albrecht in my mill for small bits and the Roehm in my lathe.

Wasn't that familiar with Roehm but it appears to be a solid player and it has the quick action which I like.

Not sure where the Golden Goose will land.  It is not a bad chuck just not in the same league as the other two.  BTW, I assumed it is Chinese.  Could be Taiwanese for all I know.  EDIT: Golden Goose is made in Taiwan.


----------



## richl

firestopper said:


> I placed a bid on publicsurpluss.com for a Chicago Dries&Krump 72" finger brake rated for 14 gauge mild steel. Well I won the bid and headed to Gilbert Az this morning after shift. I took some cribbing and rigging items to get the heavy brake loaded onto the dump trailer. The guy was kind enough to use their forklift but reminded me that its up to the buyer to arrange moving and loading. The brake was already outside when I arrived and I noticed they had forked it from the bottom portion of the upper beam clamp.
> 
> My plan is to unload the machine and reconnect the upper beam and check operation and bend quality. I'm hoping nothing is "sprung" and any fine tuning can be achieved with the three tensioning members and shims. If it proves not to be a boat anchor,  I will completely tear it apart, sand blast and repaint. I will also upgrade the rear cranks.
> Sorry for the long story, but everyone should know how to pick/lift a brake.
> Paco



A machine in the approximate size and visual condition is for sale in my local craigslist, 3300.00, they don't come up too often around here, this one is probably a bit more pricey than typical. I think you got a good deal, even if you have to part it out


----------



## T Bredehoft

Local auction. For three dollars I bought "foot warmer", a piece of soap stone, 12" by 12" by 1" thick. It will eventually be cut down to make a small 'oven" for heat treating. I can heat a tool inside it with  an oxy acetylene torch, it will contain the heat making much quicker heating. With the added features of no fires and no oxidizing.


----------



## EmilioG

All new; Lixie dead blow. I also bought a Wiha dead blow which is simple but well made, not pictured.
An Albrecht 3-16mm keyless chuck and a mint condition 2-3" Etalon micrometer with case and wrenches.


----------



## BGHansen

Received a 13 pc. set of R-8 collets bought new off eBay for a touch over $50 delivered.  U.S.A. seller, no doubt made in China.  Only checked a couple for run-out so far, > 0.0004" on the 3/8" and 1/2" using a spotting drill for the test rod.

Bruce


----------



## GoceKU

Today i had some time so i visited couple of tool markets, i was looking for an used caliper but they were all stuck or rusted so i decided there on the spot to give this china digital caliper a try, also bought this led headlamp and couple of good quality threading taps, they were expensive but should last more.


----------



## 682bear

A co-worker brought these to me today... they are all used, but all are still useable. There must be 30 pounds or more here...

-Bear


----------



## hman

Score!!!!


----------



## dlane

Bear, I'm guessing u didn't buy them they were free,  nice co worker.


----------



## 682bear

dlane said:


> Bear, I'm guessing u didn't buy them they were free,  nice co worker.



No, he wanted $20 for all of them... I didn't try to talk him down... 

I missed the weight by a fuzz... I put them on the scale... they came in at 46 pounds...

-Bear


----------



## Dan_S

Some Micro 100 tools for a couple of my upcoming projects.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i had some work in the area where the scrap yards are located, so i visited one, i was looking for round pieces to turn in the lathe but found only two small pieces, did bought couple of thick square pieces and two old CO2 extinguishers, they are empty, i may change the valve and use them for welding gas or even use the bottle for work piece if i need that size, it all came under 10 euros.


----------



## Dan_S

An angle block set that I just finished cleaning up and slathering with instrument oil.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited couple of tool and flea markets, did not found nothing special, bought usual shop supplies, carbide inserts, cutting oil, shop rags and managed to find those, fiat ball joints, OEM brand new, that i need for a future project, experience has taught me if you'll need something in the near future the first opportunity you can buy it is the best time to buy it.


----------



## toploader

Brought this little guy home.  The Niles toolworks lathe. Has a kirkelie qctp on it as well.


----------



## zmotorsports

Just purchased a used Hardinge 5C collet set by 1/64th's.  Appears to be in pretty good condition.

Mike


----------



## TomS

My new ER20 floating tap holder arrived in the mail yesterday.  I also ordered a couple of collets: one for a 1/4" tap and one for a 3/8" tap.  Once I get my mill spindle to reverse with a M4 command I can continue with making a mini pallet.


----------



## T Bredehoft

I haven't really studied this, but have found that No. 4, 5 and 6 taps all take the same driver, It is possible that other, larger size taps also come in groups, like maybe 1/4 and 5/16. something to find out about before buying tap driver collets.


----------



## TomS

T Bredehoft said:


> I haven't really studied this, but have found that No. 4, 5 and 6 taps all take the same driver, It is possible that other, larger size taps also come in groups, like maybe 1/4 and 5/16. something to find out about before buying tap driver collets.



Thanks for the info.  Following your lead I went internet hunting and found a tap chart that shows size 0 thru 6 are the same shank size.  After that shank diameters are different for each size up to 1/2" which is the max size I plan on using.  I need to compare tap shank sizes to ER20 collets to see what makes sense.


----------



## T Bredehoft

ER collets are pretty forgiving, they can be squeezed down at least a 32nd, maybe more. Well, one mm or nearly .040 thou.


----------



## Bamban

Did not buy it, had a few months, finally found someone who is smarter than me to figure how this jewel works, and recondition it. I bought all the parts that were badly worn out: bezel, crystal, arms, dials, the felt, and glue.

The gentleman did not want to be acknowledged publicly by name. He did a great job, it is as good as new. Did not have any pictures prior to rebuilding, but  here are some pictures of the internal mechanish when it taken apart

My 1236 had one when I acquired it, got spoiled by it. For what I do I actually prefer this unit over a DRO. It is old school, but very effective amd accurate.

Now, I am torn whether to install it on the Jet 1024 or on the SBL 13.










I found a video of the TAD when I was checking it whether it would function at all. Short of posting the entire video, I just took a screenshot of the TAD. As you see, the gentleman who reconditioned it did one hell of a great job.


----------



## T Bredehoft

We used trav-a-dial's during my apprenticeship, in the early 1970s. DROs, while they existed, were not mounted on our machines.  One 4 inch spindle Kearney & Trecker horizontal  mill had an early DRO, consisting of a myriad tiny glass tubes which lit up to show numbers. All the lathes had Trav-a-dials.


----------



## ACHiPo

Shars blackfriday sale (20% off--basically free shipping)


	

		
			
		

		
	
 12" precision level


	

		
			
		

		
	
 234 precision blocks


	

		
			
		

		
	
2MT Precision live center


	

		
			
		

		
	
knurling clamp


	

		
			
		

		
	
123 precision blocks


	

		
			
		

		
	
automatic center punch


	

		
			
		

		
	
v-block clamps


	

		
			
		

		
	
4 1/2 x 3 1/2 slotted angle plate


----------



## coherent

I bought a harbor freight 4x6 bandsaw some years back. I didn't want to get a better one because I wasn't sure how often I'd really use it. After a few weeks, I sold my Dewalt abrasive cut off saw. Over the years I realized just how often it does get used and what an indispensable tool a horizontal bandsaw is... that in mind I sold the 4x6 on craigslist last week to the first guy who came to look at it and just upgraded/received a new Grizzly G0561 7x12. Boy what a difference in size and quality. It cuts beautifully! I like it!


----------



## f350ca

I went through the same steps but kept the abrasive saw. It comes in handy for hardened steels that would eat bandsaw blades. 
The biggest advantage of the bigger saw is the coolant, makes blades last a lot longer, but is messy.

Greg


----------



## toploader

I bought the same saw initially, and the motor literally burst into flames. I use my 7 x 12 bandsaw a lot.  Your grizzly looks a lot like my central machinery unit.


----------



## Silverbullet

I was bad and bought three items , six over size 5c collets with plenty of room to machine. A 6" x 1" carbide cutter with1" bore.  $5.00 bid won it. And a casting from Mr Pete aka Tubalcain , to add a taper attachment to my logan. When he did his pour he added an extra well I made a comment about buying it . He said it's up for bids , I offered $25.  And he said that sounded fair so I'm waiting it's delivery .


----------



## Silverbullet

toploader said:


> Brought this little guy home.  The Niles toolworks lathe. Has a kirkelie qctp on it as well.


Nice lathe , has the rapid return on it too. They are so nice to traverse the distance with out crankin


----------



## Z2V

My Craigslist find, listed for $50, I offered $40 and brought it home. Complete with certification sheet. Seller said it was never uncrated.


----------



## Mikelkie

Bought this @ an auction 2 weeks ago R. 4000-00  ( 295-00 US $)


----------



## Cooter Brown

I just bought 154 pounds of tooling for $150




And I just got 3 of these mig guns for $50


----------



## Z2V

Nice haul


----------



## Cooter Brown

Thanks. Those boxes are stuffed with drills, end mills, chucking reamers, taps, gauge pins lathe tooling and lots of carbide.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited the tool market and did a lot of walking there were couple new vendors with machinist tools, there was lots of old tools in bad shape but did found and bought this filler set of calipers, some time back i bought inside set and now i found outside set also bought couple of pieces carbide inserts, i bought a new set of thick rubber gloves, i don't use gloves when running machines but for handling metal pieces is a must and i bought this cheap screwdriver set.


----------



## BGHansen

I have an Atlas MFB little horizontal mill with a broken at the mounting ears power feed.  I have one reoccurring parts job that's easiest to do on the horizontal, but I hate hand cranking.  Especially on the conventional only cutting Atlas.  Make a pass by cranking 50 times, drop the table, then crank like crazy back to the starting point.

So, fixing the broken Zamac box is on the project list, but near the bottom.  Just whining here, but isn't it a bit annoying to see someone buy up a $1000 Atlas mill and then part it out for a total of about $4000?  Sellers on eBay think the power feeds are worth $200 - $300.  Guess they are if someone pays that, but I figure if mine broke, a replacement has a good chance of breaking too.  One of these years I'll remake the gear box out of steel instead, but that'll be another thread or POTD.

Work around was spending a little over $500 from Eisen Machinery for a right angle head for my Bridgeport.  The head, support and 1" arbor were $455 new plus a touch over $50 UPS delivered.  It's one of the GEM Power units from Taiwan.  

OK, initial impression is the packaging was very good.  Not boxed, not double-boxed, but triple-boxed.  Now the bad stuff.  The arbor key is 6 mm, not 1/4" so there's about 0.014" slop with standard 1" / 1/4" keyed cutters on the arbor.  Hopefully not a big deal as I'll do both climb and conventional cuts with this set up whereas the Atlas is conventional cutting only.  The cutters will rotate a bit at the start of each pass and hammer the key.

I didn't shoot pictures of it, but I snapped my Bridgeport's draw bar tightening up the internal R8 arbor to the mill's spindle.  I believe my draw bar was shop made by the previous mill owner (made from drill rod).  It was flame-hardened at the bottom end and was threading a little hard (obviously) into the right angle head.  Was using a spanner wrench in the right angle head to hold it from rotating as I was tightening the draw bar, then it got real easy to turn . . .   Never had a problem with the draw bar going into collets, an ER-32 collet chuck or R8 drill chucks, so probably some crud in the treads of the right angle head.

So what to do with a broken off hardened 7/16" - 20 piece of drill rod in the R8 of the brand new right angle head?  Went to the drill press with a 3/16" and 1/4" carbide end mill.  Got a hole through the ~5/8" long chunk in the arbor and got it out with an EZ-out.  I pulled the head apart and will say the miter gears look really stout.  They are hypoid gears like rear differentials in cars/trucks which are the best for power transfer.  The turn ratio is 3/4 or output shaft turning at 75% of the input shaft speed.

Making a new draw bar from CRS for now.  I'll post a question about what material should be used in the Q&A forum.  Single point threaded a piece of 7/16" CRS and went about 0.005" undersized on the pitch diameter.  It threads well into the right angle head so hopefully no repeat issues.  Lessons learned is if something isn't just falling together, maybe figure out why instead of pulling a little harder on the wrench . . .

The instructions for set up are pretty light.  From the pictures (no verbiage as it's a globally sold unit), you tighten a set screw on the head which spreads the slip-on housing.  Then tighten the draw bar to fully seat the head.  Next, loosen the set screw and tighten a couple of cap screws.  There's no explanation of set up for squaring the head to the table or aligning the arbor support.  

I'll use an angle plate set sideways in my mill vise and tram it in.  Then attach the arbor to the head and set it to the angle plate surface.  For the support, I'll separate the two pieces and leave the attaching hardware out.  Then set the lower half on the arbor and adjust the mill spindle up/down until I get contact between the two support pieces.  Then turn the mill's spindle depth nut up as a hard stop so the spindle won't drop.  Probably easier to post a thread with photos once I get through the process.

Anyway, here's what a touch over $500 gets you from Eisen Machinery.  It's the best price I found for the 50 deg. dovetail support used for a Bridgeport and a lot cheaper than what some folks are asking on eBay for the identical unit (first two eBay links) for used ones.  The rest of the eBay links are for genuine Bridgeport heads.

Bruce

https://eisenm.com/products/milling...izontal-milling-attachment-r8-w-support-arbor

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Enco-R...919217?hash=item41cd84fdb1:g:WRYAAOSwsCFZnIKe
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RIGHT-ANGL...777377?hash=item440d4abaa1:g:pUAAAOSwI9JZ1THU
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRIDGEPORT...100698?hash=item33db0884da:g:YZAAAOSwPK5ZiLui
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRIDGEPORT...101050?hash=item33db08863a:g:j~IAAOSw~XpZWS-N
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRIDGEPORT...464550?hash=item4b2d97b666:g:TnIAAOSwJQdXAorw
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bridgeport...479391?hash=item4406f4c01f:g:veAAAOSwopRYhhXy


----------



## ACHiPo

Z2V said:


> My Craigslist find, listed for $50, I offered $40 and brought it home. Complete with certification sheet. Seller said it was never uncrated.
> View attachment 247863
> View attachment 247864


Pretty sure this qualifies you for a You Suck!


----------



## Z2V

Yee Haw....... my first “ You Suck” thank you thank you thank you


----------



## toploader

Great find!


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited an machinery seller, did not find a machine to buy but he had some tools for sale so i bought those two insert cutters, an left and right, made in germany (GDR) both look like they have had very little use, also bought this M20 machine tap, finding good quality spiral threading tap in good shape for good price is hard.


----------



## Bamban

Found these at a local CL. Total advertised price was 150, adding individual pricing. I asked what would be the price if I were to buy them all. I also ask that I want the bottom, no further negotiations, walk away price. He came back with $100. I thought that was a good price and agreed, not a killer deal, but I wanted some reading materials while I am down. These should keep me busy between rehab. I could probably read most of the contents online, I still prefer paper copies.

One of my shooting buddies will pick them before 2100 CST.


----------



## GoceKU

Last couple of days i've been communicating trying to buy for couple of air cylinders and an air valve out of an pneumatic bus doors, and today i got the call come and get them half price, so i pick them up i have a thought, maybe i can use them for making and pneumatic vice for the shop made chop saw i'm making, little dirty but should be in fully working order.


----------



## Bob Korves

GoceKU said:


> i have a thought, maybe i can use them for making and pneumatic vice for the shop made chop saw


Watch your fingers!  The air powered Wilton vises have crushed lots of digits.  Install a two hand operation to energize?


----------



## JimDawson

The new collet came in today.




Little bigger than a 5C  



This is a 16C collet for the new CNC lathe.  1.5 inch, the largest through bore available is 1.625

Compared to a 5C


----------



## Bob Korves

JimDawson said:


> Compared to a 5C


Probably costs a few cents more...


----------



## JimDawson

Bob Korves said:


> Probably costs a few cents more...



$130 from MSC, about $30 on ebay used.  I think we'll be buying the rest on ebay.


----------



## Cooter Brown

118 pounds $115


$40 worth of screwdrivers.


and I just picked up this table for $100 on craigslist


that 12x12x12 angle plate I bought a few months ago for $50 from fleebay.


it has 30 drawers the previous owner said his great grandfather built the table on the clock at a Ford plant with shop materials.


----------



## hman

Great score(s)!  Was the vise part of the deal????


----------



## ch2co

mmmmmm drawers. You paid less than you could scrap it out for, so yes a great deal. Congrats!


----------



## Cooter Brown

hman said:


> Great score(s)!  Was the vise part of the deal????


Sadly no. That's a 974 Chas Parker with flat jaws I bought that on fleebay for  $150


----------



## GoceKU

Today i went to look couple of mills at private sellers, way too expensive for their condition, but did buy couple of big boring bars, both sandvik made in sweden, one is an interesting design it has an bolted head, and is right angled, someone has mill couple of flats to be able to hold it, but i plan to make an tool holder for an round shank tools, they are quite large and the previous owner could not use them because his lathe was too small, i did test fit them and my tool holder has room to spare, i'm quite satisfied i only had brazed on big boring bars and i prefer insert tooling also i bought them at a fair price.


----------



## Cooter Brown

I bought this about 3 weeks ago finally showed up today. $62


----------



## ACHiPo

Cheapo boring bars.  Could have been a waste of $15?


----------



## Bob Korves

ACHiPo said:


> Cheapo boring bars.  Could have been a waste of $15?


Those boring bars work OK, but often need to be properly ground first.  Often there is not enough relief under the cutting edge, especially when boring smaller holes.  The rubbing below the cutting edge can be seen if you you look carefully.  If so, the steel shank and the brazed carbide can be ground (separately) to make more clearance.  The quick and dirty fix is to roll the bar downward a bit to a negative rake, which also changes the geometry to give more clearance.  Change the tool height to keep the cutting edge on center.  Amazingly, I have got very good results with the negative rake cutting angle.  Moving the tool above center also gives more relief, though I have not had so good results with trying it...  Unfortunately, grinding the carbide requires diamonds to do a good job,  Silicon Carbide wheels can be used for roughing, and the edges will be rough afterwards.  They can be finished honed with a diamond "file" or diamond "credit card."


----------



## Cooter Brown

ACHiPo said:


> Cheapo boring bars.  Could have been a waste of $15?



that was one of the biggest mistakes I've made this year, I have the same set they are garbage. I bought a 1/2"carbide insert boring bar from mesatool.com works great in my boring head.


----------



## ACHiPo

Bob Korves said:


> Those boring bars work OK, but often need to be properly ground first.  Often there is not enough relief under the cutting edge, especially when boring smaller holes.  The rubbing below the cutting edge can be seen if you you look carefully.  If so, the steel shank and the brazed carbide can be ground (separately) to make more clearance.  The quick and dirty fix is to roll the bar downward a bit to a negative rake, which also changes the geometry to give more clearance.  Change the tool height to keep the cutting edge on center.  Amazingly, I have got very good results with the negative rake cutting angle.  Moving the tool above center also gives more relief, though I have not had so good results with trying it...  Unfortunately, grinding the carbide requires diamonds to do a good job,  Silicon Carbide wheels can be used for roughing, and the edges will be rough afterwards.  They can be finished honed with a diamond "file" or diamond "credit card."


Bob,
Thanks.  I watched a YouTube video after placing my order that explained why they’re junk.   From the explanation it seemed like I could make them work ok if I addressed the clearance/rake.  I have a coarse (~120) and fine (~600) diamond stone for flattening wood plane blades.  I figured I’d give those a shot.
Evan


----------



## ACHiPo

Cooter Brown said:


> that was one of the biggest mistakes I've made this year, I have the same set they are garbage. I bought a 1/2"carbide insert boring bar from mesatool.com works great in my boring head.


Unfortunately I can only use a 3/8” bar in my AXA Aloris QCTP.  I didn’t look very hard, but I didn’t find any beefy affordable 3/8” bars. (1/2” fits, but the tool edge is above center) Figured I’d try to HotRod these.  If buying these is the biggest mistake I make all year it will be a VERY good year!


----------



## f350ca

I use them all the time. Have wore the carbide away on one set and half way through the second set. as Bob said they need a little tuning but work for me in a non production setting.

Greg


----------



## Tony Wells

I didn't buy this, let's just say I "acquired it", To do a little minor restore job on and have as a to-go unit, which I did not have, It welds well, but has only the 100Hz AC out. Investigation is in order.

BTW, this is my "beater". It's a 90 2500 with a poor tired 305. No air (Yankee Original) but has a TommyLift, which is a back saver, and really other than looking rough, and being worn out, all it needs before I'd want to head cross-country is a front seal in the TH350.  Weekend job for a teenager if I can find one. I don't want to wrestle it, so with a little seal sweller, it doesn't drink too bad and I can live with it. It does fine until I put a 8k load on the trailer and try to climb hills. The the mileage shows. Got my eye on an upgrade, so this will see less service.


----------



## uncle harry

darkzero said:


> Don't remember if there is an existing thread like this. Many of you guys like to share your scores so let's try a new ongoing thread...
> 
> If your here chances are you love tools & always love to get new ones. This thread is not necessarily for gloating (well maybe) but you can if you want but expect to get a "you suck" compliment!
> 
> So what did you buy for the shop today (or recently)? No tool too small or too big, machines, equipment, inexpensive, expensive, good deal or not, whatever. All that matters is if you'd like to share your latest acquisition that put a smile on your face, post 'em up! And you know the drill, we love to see photos!






I bought a new Shop Vac 2.2 gal to clean up swarf and similar dirt from my milling machines and lathes.  My friend and I hooked it up with one of my 10 amp variacs to clean away a bunch of polyethylene chips and "fur" by running the vac at about 30% suction to avoid sucking up items like small; fasteners or tooling. It worked perfectly and was also very quiet.


----------



## f350ca

Finally tracked down a shaper vice. 10 inch jaws, tips the scales at 110 pounds.



Greg


----------



## Cooter Brown

f350ca said:


> Finally tracked down a shaper vice. 10 inch jaws, tips the scales at 110 pounds.
> 
> Greg



Shaper's have the biggest most ridiculous sized vises, that Shaper is huge compared to my Atlas 7b. Very Nice!


----------



## Tony Wells

I hope some day to stumble on a replacement for my shaper vise. Not that easy to find around here. I never should have loaned mine out. That one is sightly smaller than mine was. I believe it was a 12". I'd take a 10" in a second if I could find a decent deal on one. 

Good find, Greg.


----------



## 682bear

I had ordered a 5c spin indexer from Shars... it came in last week... I immediately noticed 2 things wrong with it. First, the sides of the base were coated with the wrinkle paint that the rest of the body was painted with. I didn't like that because I may need to indicate on the base or may want to clamp it in my mill vise. Second, the base was a little wider than the t-slots on my mill table, which would limit the ways that I would be able to clamp it down.

So, I disassembled it, squared it up in my vise, and milled the sides of the base to slightly smaller than the width of my outer t-slots.




Both problems are now solved.

-Bear


----------



## 682bear

Tony Wells said:


> I hope some day to stumble on a replacement for my shaper vise. Not that easy to find around here. I never should have loaned mine out. That one is sightly smaller than mine was. I believe it was a 12". I'd take a 10" in a second if I could find a decent deal on one.
> 
> Good find, Greg.



Tony, I don't know where you are located or exactly what you are looking for, but there is an 8 inch vise on craigslist south of Atlanta... he claims it weighs 180 lbs...

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/tls/d/milling-vise-8-with-swivel/6396185138.html

I thought it may be worth mentioning...

-Bear


----------



## Martin W

f350ca said:


> Finally tracked down a shaper vice. 10 inch jaws, tips the scales at 110 pounds.
> View attachment 248849
> 
> 
> Greg



Very nice vice Greg There are three more on kijiji. One 10" an 8" and a 14" all $300- $400 each. Not mine nor do I know the sellers.
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-power-tool/...se/1318070560?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true.
I hope the link works? Or just search Milling Machines on Ontario KIJIJI


----------



## Robert LaLonde

Buy 11 get 1 FREE


----------



## MozamPete

A genuine, made in the U S of A, Greenfield No.6 tap wrench


----------



## Z2V

I purchased a new face shield for cutting and grinding.  I really like this one much better than others I’ve used in the past.


----------



## EmilioG

Swiss 
	

		
			
		

		
	





	

		
			
		

		
	
Compac 214GA .0005" DTI with two dove tail stems and a Swiss Compac centering holder.


----------



## ch2co

where did you get it and how much did it cost??


----------



## GoceKU

Today i had some time to spare so i visited the local tool markets, but being winter and the temperature dropped there wasn't much to find i only bought couple threading taps and dies and couple of carbide inserts.


----------



## T Bredehoft

Emilio

You'll find it more useful with the dovetail clamp on the end rather than the back. They are nice to work with.


----------



## 682bear

Picked up a cabinet from the scrapyard at work... $10 plus tax...




Its 49" wide and 28" deep.

I had to move my project truck out of the shop so I could get my Toyota in to unload the cabinet.




-Bear


----------



## BGHansen

682bear said:


> Picked up a cabinet from the scrapyard at work... $10 plus tax...
> 
> View attachment 249448
> 
> 
> Its 49" wide and 28" deep.
> 
> I had to move my project truck out of the shop so I could get my Toyota in to unload the cabinet.
> 
> View attachment 249451
> 
> 
> -Bear


Bear,

So what's all that white stuff on the ground?  I thought you lived in GA, not Michigan?

Bruce


----------



## 682bear

Yeah.... we had a 'record setting snow' over the weekend- around 12 inches at my house.

Thats more than I remember ever getting at one time.

-Bear


----------



## toploader

12" mitutoyo height gauge
6" to 7" B&S mic with standard
Starrett depth gauge set 0 to 6"
2) edge tool post indicators
Starrett pink 18"x24" surface plate

Mixed bag from EBay, Craigslist and Amazon


----------



## dlane

Garage sale, $5.00 never used still had wax on them, 1/4" Shanks ,I'll go easy on them
	

		
			
		

		
	



Couldn't pass them up


----------



## kvt

Well not today but just got part of it cleaned up a bit.   Got a Enco RF30 mill,   with a 4inch Kurt vice,  set of r8 collets, a set of 5c collets,  A spin indexer for the 5 c collets, a 6 inch rotary table, bunch of srew jacks, endmils, drill chucks, pretty much everything I need to get going a bit.   INcluding a 12x18 x3 surface plate.   Oh and also go an old Craftsman 6x48 combo belt grinder.    His grandfather passed away and did not know what much of the stuff was so I had to educate him as well.   Will be posting another thread on asking what some things would be worth that he still has.


----------



## Nogoingback

I've been planning to buy a bench grinder and learn to grind HSS tools.  Today I finally found one on CL at a price I'm happy with: it's a 3/4 HP with
8" wheels.  The guy selling it has a business doing drive line work on heavy trucks, so I asked if he had any brake drums that I could use to make
stands for the grinder and my arbor press.  He did, and gave them to me for free.


----------



## hman

Nice score!  _Very_ nice Craigslist seller!


----------



## FOMOGO

Nice score on the tool box Bear. Pretty clean Fairlane you have there. Couldn't quite make out what engine you have in the pickup. Always good to see another ford guy out there. Mike


----------



## 682bear

FOMOGO said:


> Nice score on the tool box Bear. Pretty clean Fairlane you have there. Couldn't quite make out what engine you have in the pickup. Always good to see another ford guy out there. Mike



Its a 302 / AOD in the '51 F2... the Fairlane is a '64 4 door that my dad bought in '97 and gave to me in '01.




-Bear


----------



## 682bear

I just got home with this...










It seems to be in very good condition... and was very reasonably priced (at a little over what I estimate to be scrap price). It needs some cleaning, but the spindle is tight and smooth and the table moves smoothly in both directions.

-Bear


----------



## utterstan

wow u southern guys get all the good stuff


----------



## Robert LaLonde

*I'm going to buy... some Parker pen refills, and some cheap clip pens.  *

_The text below is not about buying anything.  Please disregard my rambling. _

I want to try to make some home made pens to fit the Parker (or space pen) refills, and I need the cheap clicker pens for the springs.  Then I want to make a couple "blank" refills for carbide tipped scribes. I'll use some broken 1/8" shank carbide end mills for that.  I've made scribes before, but strictly fixed point solid body for around the shop.  

Something along these lines:


----------



## cvairwerks

Needed something to make the shop air dry for the blast cabinets. Been watching for a deal on a dryer of any sorts. Found this one last week and scarfed it up. It's over at the warehouse until I can get some stuff moved to get it in the garage. It's a heated desiccant style dryer with a filter column. I don't have the actual rating on it, but I believe it's 35 SCFM at 100 PSIG.  The company sent me a copy of the manual, and will get me a parts list this next week when I can give them the serial numbers.

For sizing, the desiccant pair is almost 6' tall.


----------



## Martin W

Bought this miller CP200 wire feed welder for $350.00. Cleaned  it up and made a base for it. I need to pick up a roll of .035” wire, a nozzle and some tips this week. Beats my old Lincoln SP180 with .023 wire


----------



## FOMOGO

Nice score on the welder. If you weld mostly 1/4" and larger, the .035 will serve you well, but I'd give .030 a try and see how you like it in comparison. Mike


----------



## Z2V

I can’t keep up with any of the recent posts, I did get some tool blanks cheap though. Super Mo Max, Rex AAA,  and HSS. 14 pieces all together. Let the grinding begin.


----------



## Cooter Brown

I just bought the oldest Kennedy tool box that I have ever seen.....












Felt in the drawers doesn't look that bad....


----------



## Z2V

That’s a nice old box. Good find!


----------



## Cooter Brown

that is a very old tool box


----------



## 682bear

I really like that box! Thats just cool!

-Bear


----------



## ACHiPo

Stumbled across this little guy and had to have it.  Almost bought an Interapid to go with it, but resisted.


----------



## Alan H.

Yeap, Noga's are great.  I keep wanting more.


----------



## ddickey

I bought a NORTON MF176 filing stone off of eBay. Brand New for $3.50. looking forward to trying it out.


----------



## JerryK

Yesterday yard sale  5 bucks


----------



## BGHansen

JerryK said:


> Yesterday yard sale  5 bucks
> 
> View attachment 250166


Jerry,

With 3 or 4 Gatling guns in your arsenal already, you lookin' at adding a flamethrower now?

Bruce


----------



## jocat54

Got one just like it--was my Dad's.


----------



## JerryK

BGHansen said:


> Jerry,
> 
> With 3 or 4 Gatling guns in your arsenal already, you lookin' at adding a flamethrower now?
> 
> Bruce



Well Bruce,
I do need to find something new to concentrate on with
the new California laws coming in.
At least I’m grandfathered in on what I have.
The United States, not as united as it was.


----------



## Cooter Brown

I think I have a problem...... I can stop buying Kennedy boxes..... I think I'm addicted.
This one is very clean.





Picked up one of these for $25 today as well
Starrett 91A


----------



## GoceKU

Today i did managed to visit the local tool market, not too much quality tools but did managed to find and buy some carbide inserts, wrenches, sockets and those two chamfering tools, they have a very strange end its tapered square, i'm not sure are they meant to be hand driven or machine driven.


----------



## Cooter Brown

That taper square is for an old hand drill like this. Those are probably for Pipe taps.


----------



## Martin W

Hi GoceKU
 Kumanovo Macedonia must have a lot of manufacturing? You seem to get a lot of cool tools from your tool market (Flea Market here in Canada) ? 
I like your big old lathe. 
Macedonia looks like a beautiful place. We have good friends from Croatia. 
Cheers
Martin


----------



## GoceKU

Hi Martin,
There is not much of manufacturing around me, but Germany is close by so some of the old tooling is sold here, and yes Macedonia is very beautiful country and the people are very nice and hospitable.


----------



## GoceKU

I've been looking for an tubing bender for some time now, and having too many projects means i wasn't looking to start one more, but when i spotted this wire box on a local Flea Market i bought them, it's a complete set 6 dies and only one roller, which isn't a big deal i'll probably make two new rollers with the right center hole size.


----------



## toploader

That looks suspiciously like pipe bending dies.


----------



## GoceKU

Yes i presume they are for bending pipe not tubing, and they are just going to kink the thinner staff, but i have a project coming up that they should come in helpful as i'll be using thick wall tubing.


----------



## toploader

GoceKU said:


> Yes i presume they are for bending pipe not tubing, and they are just going to kink the thinner staff, but i have a project coming up that they should come in helpful as i'll be using thick wall tubing.



I have found adding a shim to the die if it's close to the size you need helps. I've also capped the ends of the tube after I filled the tube with sand for thinner stuff.  You can do a lot with the "kinker".


----------



## GoceKU

Today is the last day of this year so i decided to visit the final Flea Market for 2017, i was looking for couple of threading taps in specific sizes but did not had any luck, but managed to buy those two cutting pliers and a bench grinder wire wheel, which i need for a future project, happy new year to everyone.


----------



## GoceKU

One of the tool vendors from a local tool market, gave me a call, he bought a couple of job lots and he know i was looking for couple of metric left thread dies so i looked thru all the boxes and chose those three and the countershank, he had lot of taps and dies of the same size and quality was much better. Also the prices were higher, but in the long run should last last longer.


----------



## Doubleeboy

Pulled the trigger on a Evenheat 10 Cubed heat treat oven with several upgrades.  Build and shipping time is about 3 to 4 weeks so I get to wait a while.  Bought it from KilnFrog, they matched the best price I could find on net and are arranging for Evenheat to build me a slide in shelf.  The shop will now be full unless I find a larger shaper than my 8", then I would truly be ought of space.  I had thought about building my own HT oven but in the end decided to go the easy route.


----------



## BGHansen

Sold some more Erector sets and parts on eBay.  Money was burning a hole in my pocket so splurged on a few things.  Love it when the postman drives up our driveway with boxes!

First box had 4 sets of Allen wrenches.  Seems like I'm always
looking for them in the shop.  Now they'll be everywhere.



Next is a new draw bar for my Bridgeport.  Pained me to
buy one instead of making one, but for $24 delivered . . .



Went to broach a 4 mm wide keyway in a gear blank.  My DuMont No. 70 Metric set was missing
the 4 mm broach.  Figured for as often as I'll use it, went cheap and got a Chinese one to 
complete the set.




Don't you just love opening boxes and seeing the names "NOGA" and "Interapid"?



Picked up 310 and 312 Interapid DTIs.  I have a number of Fowler,
Starrett Last Word, Mitutoyo and SPI (maybe a no-name Chinese one also).
I have to say that these Interapids are REALLY smooth and dead on repeatable.



NOGA magnetic base and indicator holder



Off to eBay to sell some more stuff.  It's less than 10 F in Michigan today, no shop time until next week.  Always more tools to impulse buy for the shop!

Bruce


----------



## EmilioG

Couldn't pass up an amazing deal on this gage lot
	

		
			
		

		
	

















	

		
			
		

		
	
, some are just about new and one is brand new still sealed.
I wanted a few back ups and a couple, styles/models, that I always wanted to try.  .0005" and .0001" and a mint B&S back plunger .001" with extra contact points.


----------



## hman

That's a *lot* of goodies ... both for Emilio and Bruce!!!!


----------



## jsh

Went to a monthly auction, never know what they will have. Picked up an inside and outside mic and magnetic indicator base and indicator, all Fowler brand. Not Starrett or B&S, but for $25 for all three. 
I am going to swap out an old clunky base for the fowler. I have an LED light I want to put the magnet base on. LED light looks like it is all crimped together, came from Lowes. 
Jeff


----------



## 4GSR

BGHansen said:


> Sold some more Erector sets and parts on eBay.  Money was burning a hole in my pocket so splurged on a few things.  Love it when the postman drives up our driveway with boxes!...............



I thought I was bad about waiting for the mail lady to show up with boxes


----------



## magicniner

In anticipation of gradually decreasing lifting capacity I bought myself this lift trolley -



It allows me to move, and raise to 1.2m a 100Kg load 



Finally I should be able to lift my bench top injection moulding machine onto the top of the bench ;-)


----------



## BGHansen

Few more on-line pick ups.  First is the ever popular mister destined for the Bridgeport CNC mill.  There are at least two styles of these units out there, one with, one without a check valve on the liquid suction line (might be other differences too).  This style can be had from a US importer off eBay for around $20.




Picked up some more pivot table clamps for my Bridgeport from Shars



Impulse buy on eBay for a Starrett 196A5Z rear-plunger indicator.  Frankly, don't have an intended use yet and don't know where/how it's used.  Have a picture from Google showing one of its uses.  Just couldn't pass up the Buy It Now for $30 shipped . . .  Need to drop in the proper snug to make it complete, time to dig through the spare parts drawer.








Google image of the 196 in use



Bruce


----------



## Moper361

BGHansen said:


> Few more on-line pick ups.  First is the ever popular mister destined for the Bridgeport CNC mill.  There are at least two styles of these units out there, one with, one without a check valve on the liquid suction line (might be other differences too).  This style can be had from a US importer off eBay for around $20.
> 
> View attachment 254245
> 
> 
> Picked up some more pivot table clamps for my Bridgeport from Shars
> View attachment 254246
> 
> 
> Impulse buy on eBay for a Starrett 196A5Z rear-plunger indicator.  Frankly, don't have an intended use yet and don't know where/how it's used.  Have a picture from Google showing one of its uses.  Just couldn't pass up the Buy It Now for $30 shipped . . .  Need to drop in the proper snug to make it complete, time to dig through the spare parts drawer.
> 
> View attachment 254247
> View attachment 254248
> 
> View attachment 254249
> View attachment 254250
> 
> 
> Google image of the 196 in use
> View attachment 254251
> 
> 
> Bruce


Hey Bruce I saw your pivot clamps and thought I was looking at some rocker arm assemblies Sorry Then I came to thinking me being a diesel mechanic I Recon they could be made from some old rocker assemblies out of some Diesel engines ,Just a thought for anyone on a tight budget .


----------



## hman

BGHansen said:


> Few more on-line pick ups.
> <snip>
> Impulse buy on eBay for a Starrett 196A5Z rear-plunger indicator.  Frankly, don't have an intended use yet and don't know where/how it's used.


I bought my 196A5Z back in the mid '70s, when I had a Yamaha 350.  Added a ~2 ½" length of ¼" aluminum rod to the little thread adapter and used it to find TDC on the cylinders thru the spark plug holes, making it easier to set the timing of the points.  It was the first precision tool I ever bought.  Served me well for several years.  I still have it, but don't use it nearly as frequently any more. 

Just had a thought - might be useful for tramming a mill - at least for the initial ±.001".  The up-facing dial would be a lot easier to see than the usual dial indicator as it's swept around.


----------



## EmilioG

The back plungers are used widely, to tram and level machine tables. You got an awesome deal on it.


----------



## f350ca

I use mine to tram the mill and shaper vice, work great.

Greg


----------



## Nogoingback

I use mine for centering stock in my 4 jaw chuck.   30 bucks is a great deal.


----------



## Z2V

I’ve also used the back plunger indicator to tram motors and gear boxes.


----------



## brino

Was in to the closest fastener supply house and found some random taps and dies on their clearance shelf.
All made in the US, and all at a fraction of original price!





-brino


----------



## Moper361

brino said:


> Was in to the closest fastener supply house and found some random taps and dies on their clearance shelf.
> All made in the US, and all at a fraction of original price!
> 
> View attachment 254435
> View attachment 254436
> 
> 
> -brino


Good pick up can never have to many new taps on hand


----------



## GoceKU

Today i went and visited a few flea markets, did lot of walking and bought those two old power generators, i've had very bad luck with new generators they are not build like they used to. On a different flea market i bought those to 3 phase switches, they are known for their reliability but i never know when i'll need one, so they'll go in the spare drawer, on the way back i also stopped and bought some more square steel to continue my tool post grinder build.


----------



## Sylvainmom

I went to the shopping mall and while waiting for my girlfriend I bought Machinist Workshop and Homeshop machinist magazine. I’ll probably a regular reader. There’s plenty of interesting projects and advertised stuff to buy for reasonable price. Unfortunately I’m not in USA ...


----------



## BGHansen

Sylvainmom said:


> I went to the shopping mall and while waiting for my girlfriend I bought Machinist Workshop and Homeshop machinist magazine. I’ll probably a regular reader. There’s plenty of interesting projects and advertised stuff to buy for reasonable price. Unfortunately I’m not in USA ...


I've got every issue of HSM since the first issue in I think 1982. It has really evolved over the years. Naturally a lot of the content is driven by the authors at the time. It's worth the subscription. One of these years I'll thumb through the back issues and generate a cumulative index.


Bruce


----------



## Silverbullet

I was a bad boy , but my daughter's gave me $50. For Christmas , I've been wanting an R8 to ER32 collet adapter for my mill , well I bought a China one for about $24. So that's on the way and I bought my gran baby a harmonica so she can drive the wife crazy . I use to be ok playing one but nothing to Bragg about. But music needs practise so make it fun now. Next ill need some collets , I have an er32 with 2Morse for my atlas mill so they'll have dual purpose .  I try to use what I can in as many ways as possible.


----------



## hman

Hmmmm ... next year, buy her a set of drums


----------



## Elijah Durham

sanddan said:


> Great vise, I had one on my bench top mill and loved it. Perfect size. A great addition to that new vise is a speed handle.
> 
> I found that they didn't make a speed handle for this size mill but an even better solution if you have a welder is to cut a wrench in half and weld a ball on the end.  I used ball bearings purchased off ebay but a cheaper solution is a hollow ball used to cap posts on metal fencing.
> 
> View attachment 226035


Great idea on the metal post cap !!!


----------



## Elijah Durham

Silverbullet said:


> What I bought today how about the last several days. I've been hunting for all the materials to build a RPC , Fuse block , fuses, magnetic contactor , on off button switches, start and run capacitors. Still need a wiring terminal block and a 5 hp three phase motor. But I picked up a manual start contactor to run the federal planer and a separate fuse box with switch . All these things get forgotten on ALOT of machinery installations. It's amazing how much the things cost even buying used on eBay if you figure the shipping cost. The 2 hp motor $22 .00 to buy it shipping $36.00 . It's hard on fixed income. If I hadn't sold some tools I couldn't even have started gathering these supplies. So no fancy pretty tools but these count to me..
> Doctors going to do the epidural shot or shots on Tuesday , I'm really hoping. And praying they work and last for a long time . This being stuck in bed in pain has gone past being miserable .


My prayers for your pain relief !


----------



## Elijah Durham

sanddan said:


> I love my Quantumikes, have a 0-1 and 1-2.
> 
> I got them on one of those great Enco 25% off with free shipping deals. Man do I miss Enco.


I used Enco for many years ! Was really sorry they sold out !!


----------



## GoceKU

Today i was in the area where there is an old flea market so i stopped by, usually there is only junk but managed to find couple of things first was this very very small lathe drive dog, then i found this green angle iron with a clamp to be clamped to a table, what i presumed is for shaping sheet metal should come in hand when making complicated carves, then i found one more old Reinland 2 oiler i've got one that i got few mounts ago and been needing one more, needs little cleaning but looks to be in good shape, and lastly i found this cast iron handwheel, its really heavy and has the quality solid feel to it, should come in handy with all the project i'm building, not a bad visit.


----------



## Silverbullet

hman said:


> Hmmmm ... next year, buy her a set of drums


May wait a few years , seems there having trouble paying all there bills. So I guess there moving in with gran pop and Grammy for a few years to save down payment funds. We tried to steer them the right direction , but he's a mommas boy and the bought a condo near them. So no drums yet but I sure might later. Please pray for them and us too. Pop don't have money so they can't get more . We gave enough to help five years ago.


----------



## uncle harry

darkzero said:


> Don't remember if there is an existing thread like this. Many of you guys like to share your scores so let's try a new ongoing thread...
> 
> If your here chances are you love tools & always love to get new ones. This thread is not necessarily for gloating (well maybe) but you can if you want but expect to get a "you suck" compliment!
> 
> So what did you buy for the shop today (or recently)? No tool too small or too big, machines, equipment, inexpensive, expensive, good deal or not, whatever. All that matters is if you'd like to share your latest acquisition that put a smile on your face, post 'em up! And you know the drill, we love to see photos!




I have committed to buying a Starrett #344 6 ingh vernier height gauge found on craigslist Milwaukee.  It comes in a hard black case (craigslist photo). It seems to be a discontinued model as far as I can tell. I'll pick it up today in an hour & 1/2. $40.  This will be much nicer than using my Enco 18 inch unit.


----------



## COMachinist

I got some Christmas money and I have been limping along with not so accurate chucks for some time now. So I bought a new Shars 6" 3 jaw adjust true and back plate. This is the one with the 2 piece jaws. Looking forward to getting it mounted and on my lathe. They say it will do about .0005 TIR but any thing 1 to 2 thou real world be great.
CH


----------



## f350ca

COMachinist said:


> I got some Christmas money and I have been limping along with not so accurate chucks for some time now. So I bought a new Shars 6" 3 jaw adjust true and back plate. This is the one with the 2 piece jaws. Looking forward to getting it mounted and on my lathe. They say it will do about .0005 TIR but any thing 1 to 2 thou real world be great.
> CH


With two pieces jaws you can make soft jaws, machine them to fit the part your turning and you get virtually zero runout. 

Greg


----------



## savarin

I'M walking on egg shells at the moment, she who must be obeyed insisted we look in the tool shop at their sales.
I had no idea why but what the hell, its a tool shop, a bit of wishful thinking never goes amiss.
I got to looking at a box set of micrometers that I thought would be nice and also the drill presses, one in particular that had a rock solid quill with absolutely no visible or tactile play.
I was allowed to take it home.
This one is clapped out and can now go.



because this one is now in its place




I've been wracking my brains for either what I've done or probably what I will have to do.
BUT I'M NOT KNOCKING IT.


----------



## roadie33

Be prepared, or afraid of what is about to come.


----------



## Joncooey

What a step up!  Now you're just going to be looking for stuff to drill holes in!  And I'm with Roadie33; maybe you should go check the passenger side of the car.


----------



## RandyM

Savarin, try not modifying the table on the new one like you did on the old one. 

Nice machine though.


----------



## Nogoingback

Not today, but recently.   An older  Greenfield (GTD) die stock for 1 1/2" dies from eBay.  It needed new set screws, but the condition is essentially
new.  At about 15 bucks I'm pretty happy with it.




I also found this book in a used bookstore for 5 bucks. It really only covers the basics but operations I don't do yet like 
threading are discussed so it will be useful.  Published originally in England, so you need to translate occasionally but 
well written and straightforward.  Good book.


----------



## jocat54

I have been wanting a 3D printer for some time now and finally ordered a Anet A6 with auto bed leveling from BangGood. Comes in kit form and supposedly takes 5-8 hours to assemble--probably be 2-3 days for me I have big fat fingers from Raynauds Disease and carpal tunnel--they don't work well with small stuff. Might be be here in 2-3 weeks, normal China shipping time. Ordered a couple of different colored PLA filaments at the same time.
Now to get better in Fusion 360 so I can make the 3d stl files to print from.


----------



## middle.road

Hey Gang, OK, need someone to talk me down off the ledge here. I picked this up today - spur of the moment....
Aloris BXA Wedge style, with an Aloris BXA16 and (3) clone holders. -- $150.00
I have been looking at the Shars BXA set which is $140.00 plus some extra holders for a total of ~$200.00, but I went ahead with this Aloris today because well, it's an Aloris and I had sold the Aloris 'CXA' that came with the 1440 years ago...
So the plan is that the 'AXA' that is currently on the 1440 will migrate to the Logan 210, and we'll sell the Hardinge L18 set that is on the Logan currently.
Sounds like a plan - right? kinda? maybe?     *GADS* it stinks when the budget gets tight.....


----------



## GoceKU

middle.road said:


> it stinks when the budget gets tight



Budget is always tight but we do the best we can with it.


----------



## BGHansen

I prefer the tumbler-style micrometers and have 0-3" ones at each of my lathes and mills, really didn't need another set but . . .  This set of brand new, never opened Fowler's showed up on eBay for $50.  I was the only bidder, so my Clausing lathe will get a matched set instead of the mixed brands currently at the machine.

Also picked up a Drill Doctor 750.  I got a No. 400 years ago as a Christmas present and have been pleased with it, so figured it was time for an upgrade.

Bruce


----------



## ThunderDog

I bought this toy for my Sheldon toy. 
I went with the GS3-21PO.  I'm starting to learn, "Buy once, cry once".
I've never owned a VFD, can't wait to get everything hooked up.


----------



## Moper361

ThunderDog said:


> I bought this toy for my Sheldon toy.
> I went with the GS3-21PO.  I'm starting to learn, "Buy once, cry once".
> I've never owned a VFD, can't wait to get everything hooked up.
> View attachment 255415


Been looking at vfd but can't make my mind up on what to get


----------



## uncle harry

Moper361 said:


> Been looking at vfd but can't make my mind up on what to get



The one shown is a good choice IMO.


----------



## DoogieB

For the Drill Doctor, I recommend purchasing the coarser 100 grit wheel because it works faster than the stock wheel (180 grit) on larger drill bits.


----------



## Martin W

Picked this baby up on the weekend. Been patiently waiting for one my entire adult life. I’m 
	

		
			
		

		
	








	

		
			
		

		
	
 In the process of flushing and new fluids now. Has rapids on all axis and coolant. Runs better than a Swiss watch.
Cheers
Martin


----------



## Martin W

I also got some tooling with the mill. Happy days. 
Cheers
Martin


----------



## Moper361

Martin W said:


> Picked this baby up on the weekend. Been patiently waiting for one my entire adult life. I’m
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 255448
> View attachment 255448
> View attachment 255453
> View attachment 255452
> View attachment 255451
> View attachment 255450
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the process of flushing and new fluids now. Has rapids on all axis and coolant. Runs better than a Swiss watch.
> Cheers
> Martin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 255449


Thats a beast it looks very sturdy i like it


----------



## roadie33

Very nice.
Looks like someone likes John Deer Green and Yellow colors.


----------



## middle.road

Ain't that a handsome hunk of Ol' American Iron?!
I would hazard to guess that nothing would stop it....


----------



## jsh

Auction coming up. Brazed on carbide bits. What are your thoughts. Pictures look pretty good and seem to be quite a few. Any idea on value? Or just stay away and buy new with inserts?
Inspection day is coming up, have not seen them ftf yet. 
Jeff


----------



## Dan_S

jsh said:


> Auction coming up. Brazed on carbide bits. What are your thoughts. Pictures look pretty good and seem to be quite a few. Any idea on value? Or just stay away and buy new with inserts?
> Inspection day is coming up, have not seen them ftf yet.
> Jeff



Depends if the grades of carbide matches up to the material you turn regularly, and if you have the tooling to sharpen then.


----------



## Redmech

Picked these off the big online auction, I’ve been wanting a nice heavy surface gage to make a squareness comparator with. I have a few 3508 wrist pins that I’m going to try and make into cylinder squares.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited couple of tool markets and bought couple of old machinist tools, first i found this protractor, some surface rust, but the numbers are still nicely visible, then i found this old rusty MT3 live centre the bearings feel smooth so decided i'll spend some time cleaning it up and have it for a spare, also made a package deal for the 40-75mm cone drill, and lastly i bought this 24mm new taper drill bit, MT1 to MT3 reducer and 13,75mm drill, not a bad visit.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by a scrapyard i've bought steel pieces before and bought a full box of metal castings and round bar cut offs i'm pretty sure the steel castings are for making bearings, not sure how hard they are but should come in handy, also bought this bent piece of round stock, mechanical tachometer and the rusty machined piece, all in less than 10$.


----------



## Nogoingback

A couple of CL finds today.   I've been wanting to replace the horrible Chinese DP vice I've had for the last 20 years.  This one is Taiwanese,
but appears very well made:  nicely machined, jaws align properly, smooth in operation after a clean up and lube session.  It's a huge
improvement over the old one.  While I was at it I bought a couple of old forged steel Wilton C-clamps.  None of this stuff appeared to
have ever been used.


----------



## magicniner

I took a punt on a few items of tooling on eBay and picked up these 




2x MGCH08 solid carbide holders and a box of grooving tips. I already have a few other MGCH 08 and MGCH 06 bars but I'm finding that as I use them more it's very handy to be able to leave one with a threading insert and one with a grooving insert and still have one for less frequently used tips. 

The beauty of these things is that all tips are available in LH and RH and you can use them on the lathe for boring and back-boring, internal and external threading, internal and external grooving and on the mill for grooving and thread milling ;-)


----------



## 682bear

My latest buy...




I didn't get a screaming deal on it, but I've been looking for a good saw for a year now and finally decided I was going to have to increase my spending limit for one.

I was finding project saws in my original price range, but really wanted a 'plug and play'...

I think this is going to be a good fit in my shop.

-Bear


----------



## middle.road

682bear said:


> My latest buy...
> I didn't get a screaming deal on it, but I've been looking for a good saw for a year now and finally decided I was going to have to increase my spending limit for one.
> I was finding project saws in my original price range, but really wanted a 'plug and play'...
> I think this is going to be a good fit in my shop.
> 
> -Bear


Nice Score!


----------



## EmilioG

Mitutoyo re-issued a newer version of their 505 series 736 model 6" dial caliper with carbide jaws.
The model no loner needs TiN coating on the beams. Mitutoyo using a better grinding process.  I bought this set new because I needed a shop set, and I was tired of buying used calipers with gaps in the jaws from wear.  I wanted another Swiss caliper, vintage Tesa or Etalons, but all of them were junk, so I bought these Japan made Mitutoyos.  Dead accurate. The carbide jaws will prevent premature wear.  The last photo shows the kind of wear that is seen is many used (and some new!) calipers.  I purchased and returned 3 Ebay calipers before I bought the new Mitutoyos. 505-736 6" inch/metric dial calipers with carbide jaws.


----------



## jrkorman

Well I'd been looking around ebay, etc for a Noga base. We had gone down to Abilene, TX and stopped by a flea market that we stop at occasionally. They do have a couple of vendors that carry tools of various sort. Today, just what I was looking for. Noga magnetic base with an SPI 0.5" indicator. Just a shelf away was a set of fractional transfer punches and also a couple of aluminium bars for good measure. Figured it was a good day.


----------



## fitterman1

EmilioG said:


> Mitutoyo re-issued a newer version of their 505 series 736 model 6" dial caliper with carbide jaws.
> The model no loner needs TiN coating on beams. Mitutoyo using a better grinding process.  I bought this set new because I needed a shop set, and I was tired of buying used calipers with gaps in jaws from wear.  I wanted another Swiss caliper, vintage Tesa or Etalons, but all of them were junk, so I bought these Japan made Mitutoyos.  Dead accurate. The carbide jaws will prevent premature wear.  The last photo shows the kind of wear that is seen is many used (and some new!) calipers.  I purchased and returned 3 Ebay calipers before I bought the new Mitutoyos. 505-736 6" inch/metric dial calipers with carbide jaws.




That point wear is from machinists using their calipers as marking gauges I suspect. I always lightly clamp my caliper jaws around the shirt edge between a pair of buttons on my shirtfront and draw away to clean them prior to zeroing and checking, its my habit.
Quality calipers should have a pair of adjusting screws to adjust parallelism also, you have to have a light feel when using calipers, none of this clamp the crap out of the work to get the best measurement. My Mitutoyo's (digital 500-322)were purchased in 1989 and cost me AU$250 then and are still able to measure 0005" repeatedly. The case is a lot worse for wear though.


----------



## EmilioG

You're right. Calipers should be used to lightly clamp the work to get a measurement. Some people squeeze too hard or scribe hard steel with the jaws.  Of course, wear is inevitable if they are used hard. The jaws and beam will wear over time. Calipers really aren't meant to last 20-30 years.
The constant sliding will wear away the frame. Light clamp pressure will preserve and prolong accurate use for a long time.


----------



## 682bear

I just picked up another band saw... just a small horizontal... I already had an MSC branded 4×6, but this one was cheap, so I couldn't resist...




Its a Johnson model J... 10×18. It needs some work, but it runs and seems to be pretty solid. The hydraulic lift cylinder isn't working, and the spur gear that drives the driven wheel is missing. Otherwise, its in pretty good condition.

Please don't tell my wife...

-Bear


----------



## Silverbullet

Well that old brown truck stopped here yesterday and DERN if he didn't get me in trouble. He's a coward too, rings the bell and runs. A very neatly packaged box arrived from HGR inside was two brand new rolls of stainless wrapped tubing for me to use in my shop. They make good lines for misters and coolant lines , the wrapping protects from chips damaging them. So I'm more then set for my lifetime. Shoot I may cut and sell some . HGR does charge heavy for there shipping and handling , but you have to weigh the worth over cost.


----------



## ch2co

Bear
She’ll never notice. 
Are you sure that this one is big enough?


----------



## 682bear

ch2co said:


> Bear
> She’ll never notice.
> Are you sure that this one is big enough?



I don't know... we'll see...

-Bear


----------



## Skowinski

Bought a 3/8 shank turning and boring bar set with carbide inserts, should be here by the end of the week!


----------



## jsh

Well I ended up with a couple of Kennedy top boxes. A lot of odds and ends and crap. Quite a few inserts I have to sort through yet. Starret small hole gauges, shop made angle gauges a couple of machinist books, a lot of small o ring type picks. Pretty much got the Kennedy boxes for a good deal and contents for free. 
I now think I have plenty of storage and then some. 
Time to plop down money for QC holders and some other odds and ends. 
Honestly need to refrain from "acquiring" more auction items and run with what I have. 
Jeff


----------



## Buffalo20

Last week, I picked up a Dynabrade Dynafile II, at a shop clean out for $30. Picked up some 1/2” x 18” sanding belts and gave it a slight work out, on Thursday, I have a Nitto-Kohki (3/8” x 13”), the Dynabrade is a larger unit and will be a learning process, to get optimum performance.


----------



## Hukshawn

What did I buy today?? 
Oh, I'll tell you what I bought today! 




SUUUURRRFAAAAACE GRRIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIINDER!!!!!! 




I didn't even get all the straps and chains off before I had to try it out! 



Not too shabby!
... 
Mind the apprentice mark in the corner 

The machine runs well, but it's got some weirdness... A furnace fan motor, for one... And the janky wiring and the household light switch. 
I may do a tear down, not sure yet. 
That part I ground was good to .0004" across 4". And that was just a quick pass on top and bottom with only rubbing the magnet down with WD40 and a rag. I will probably pull the table and clean it all and grind the magnet flat. It's a bit beat up. 

Needless to say tho, I'm over the moon. 
I'd say something silly like, my machine shop is complete, lathe, mill, grinder... But let's be honest here...
That said, this grinder is taking up the LAST corner I could clean out in the garage. And that included building a whole pile of cabinets and mounting them on the walls.


----------



## benmychree

I can't say, the spousal unit would not be amused.


----------



## benmychree

Hukshawn said:


> What did I buy today??
> Oh, I'll tell you what I bought today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SUUUURRRFAAAAACE GRRIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIINDER!!!!!!
> 
> View attachment 257625
> 
> 
> I didn't even get all the straps and chains off before I had to try it out!
> View attachment 257626
> 
> 
> Not too shabby!
> ...
> Mind the apprentice mark in the corner
> 
> The machine runs well, but it's got some weirdness... A furnace fan motor, for one... And the janky wiring and the household light switch.
> I may do a tear down, not sure yet.
> That part I ground was good to .0004" across 4". And that was just a quick pass on top and bottom with only rubbing the magnet down with WD40 and a rag. I will probably pull the table and clean it all and grind the magnet flat. It's a bit beat up.
> 
> Needless to say tho, I'm over the moon.
> I'd say something silly like, my machine shop is complete, lathe, mill, grinder... But let's be honest here...
> That said, this grinder is taking up the LAST corner I could clean out in the garage. And that included building a whole pile of cabinets and mounting them on the walls.


A machine shop is never truly complete! So many machines. so little time!


----------



## Hukshawn

benmychree said:


> I can't say, the spousal unit would not be amused.


I mentioned it to the wife a few weeks ago. Last week she said she didn't care if I bought it..... Out of the blue!! 
Either she was drinking (she doesn't drink) or I'm really wearing her down. Haha.


----------



## brino

Hukshawn said:


> I'd say something silly like, my machine shop is complete, lathe, mill, grinder... But let's be honest here... That said, this grinder is taking up the LAST corner I could clean out in the garage.



So next step is an addition to the garage?

Congrats Shawn!

-brino


----------



## Hukshawn

brino said:


> So next step is an addition to the garage?
> 
> Congrats Shawn!
> 
> -brino


I wish. Subdivision. No go on an addition. Impossible.


----------



## benmychree

Hukshawn said:


> I wish. Subdivision. No go on an addition. Impossible.


Or, maybe you just don't know the lingo ----- sure, go ahead and do it, but some day it will be thrown up in your face --- just saying -----


----------



## Hukshawn

benmychree said:


> Or, maybe you just don't know the lingo ----- sure, go ahead and do it, but some day it will be thrown up in your face --- just saying -----


It was the next day. Lol
But you gotta jump when the gettins good then deal with the repercussions later.
Her only complaint is that I spent all day driving 600km and loading the thing into the garage until 10:30, while she had to chase the boy all day. she wants a day away from the boy today, but I really should go to work. Haha.


----------



## Bob Korves

Hukshawn said:


> I wish. Subdivision. No go on an addition. Impossible.


Mezzanine.


----------



## Matt Roberts

I was happy to add this to the shop—great price too.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i had some free time so i visited couple of tool markets, did lots of looking and walking but did not find many things, seams the cold weather has scared some of the vendors, one thing i found is this oil barrel pump, is much more compact then the one i'm using now, other things i bought is this big threading die and this old cut off blade holder, it has an camshaft style lock on it and uses 12 x 3 mm HSS cutter which i have, i did send lot of time and found very few things.


----------



## Ulma Doctor

ER32 collet blocks came yesterday 

1 Hex , 1 Square


----------



## dfsmoto

682bear said:


> My latest buy...
> 
> View attachment 256398
> 
> 
> I didn't get a screaming deal on it, but I've been looking for a good saw for a year now and finally decided I was going to have to increase my spending limit for one.
> 
> I was finding project saws in my original price range, but really wanted a 'plug and play'...
> 
> I think this is going to be a good fit in my shop.
> 
> -Bear


I paid $600 for this but I think it l will have to buy/ make some parts for it.  Does yours have the blade welder?


----------



## dfsmoto

I scored all this today for free but will have to spend some time/money on all of it!


----------



## silverhawk

Ulma Doctor said:


> ER32 collet blocks came yesterday
> 
> 1 Hex , 1 Square
> View attachment 258663



I bought a mini mill earlier this year, and my hex/square collet blocks are arriving tomorrow. What a coincidence!


----------



## dfsmoto

silverhawk said:


> I bought a mini mill earlier this year, and my hex/square collet blocks are arriving tomorrow. What a coincidence!


Those are very handy!


----------



## Bamban

I was doing some weapons related horse trading with an older gentleman. Before we parted ways he handed this 3 inch vise as a bonus. Made in Japan, who knows how old this little guy is. It is well made and still tight. I will graft some hard rubber to the jaws and use it to hold small items on the bench as I work on them.


----------



## NavyShooter

Got one of these for $95 today....I also got word that my lathe was shipped from Precision Matthews today, with an estimated 3 day delivery time.

Youpee!  Now I'll be able to move it.

(Regular price for these goes around $360-400 Canuck Bucks up here.)


----------



## Aaron_W

I bought a bag of hammers... 





I got a Home Depot gift certificate from work, and since I don't have a lot of metal working tools I bought the 3 Estwing hammers, and the tool bag. I got the two on the right from Harbor Freight. This gives me an 8oz and 12 oz ball peen, a soft faced hammer, 2 and 3 pound hammers which should take care of my immediate metal banging needs.

I had some money left on the gift card so I also picked up a 12 piece punch and chisel set.


----------



## silverhawk

dfsmoto said:


> I scored all this today for free but will have to spend some time/money on all of it!



Is that an antique power hacksaw? Looks like a fun project!


----------



## 682bear

dfsmoto said:


> I paid $600 for this but I think it l will have to buy/ make some parts for it.  Does yours have the blade welder?



No, mine never had a welder on it... I'm gonna build a jig and attempt to tig weld blades... wish me luck... lol

The only source for parts that I have found is a company in Great Britain... and I haven't been able to get in touch with them. If you find another source, please let me know.

-Bear


----------



## dfsmoto

682bear said:


> No, mine never had a welder on it... I'm gonna build a jig and attempt to tig weld blades... wish me luck... lol
> 
> The only source for parts that I have found is a company in Great Britain... and I haven't been able to get in touch with them. If you find another source, please let me know.
> 
> -Bear


Yeah I found out that Startrite is a British company.  I emailed clausing/Kalamazoo and they promptly sent me all the literature they had on it.  I mainly wanted the manual but they said they can get parts.  Heard they are horribly expensive so I'm making what I need for mine.  
Just heat the blades after welding and grinding to anneal and you will be fine!


----------



## dfsmoto

silverhawk said:


> Is that an antique power hacksaw? Looks like a fun project!


Yep got it cleaned up today and trying to figure out an abreviated flat belt set up.


----------



## Cooter Brown

I just bought 80 pounds of tooling for $80 today


----------



## DHarris

Ok, looks like I'm going to have to take a trip to Michigan, I've never seen anything like that at the auctions around here!!!

Nice score - - -


----------



## Cooter Brown

Finally organized it all out on the table, this is my 80 pounds for $80.
This is not coming from Michigan I’m not telling sorry guys.


----------



## ddickey

Illinois. I know it's got be Illinois.


----------



## The_Apprentice

Well, less than 24 hours ago...


----------



## Cooter Brown

ddickey said:


> Illinois. I know it's got be Illinois.




 I will never go to Illinois they don’t have reciprocity.


----------



## kvt

How about sending us a box of it.


----------



## Brento

Got all of this for 100$ depth mic is 0-3 starret and the hole gages are starret as well


----------



## Cooter Brown

kvt said:


> How about sending us a box of it.



You said you just got the pass around box, I filled it up with stuff, and I'm going to be on the list again so I can stuff it full again, I'm gonna try to hit 74lbs. lol


----------



## MozamPete

Arrived and unpacked today. Greenfield Tap & Die No.7 and No.5 (to go with my No.6), Starrett 91B tap handles and an unbranded forged steel die handle.
Dismantled, quick going over on the wire wheel to remove the surface rust, greased and reassembled.
The GT&D No.5 fixed jaw is not original and a pretty poorly made mild steel replacement. I have some suitably sized HSS so will probable make a replacement next time I’m surface grinding something.



Also a surgace gauge. But the fine adjust screw went missing somewhere between the original seller, my forwarding service in the USA, and actually arriving (with a small hole in the box). Should be able to knock up a replacement if I can figure out the thread.


----------



## The_Apprentice




----------



## ch2co

Can’t quite read what’s in the brown bottle?


----------



## Brento

ch2co said:


> Can’t quite read what’s in the brown bottle?


Cutting fluid


----------



## f350ca

Nice score Peter, surface guages are incredibly handy.
Measure the thread carefully, Starrett use proprietary threads, imagine other tool makers do too.

Greg


----------



## ch2co

“Cutting fluid”

Uhhh, that’s sorta what I would have guessed, but what cutting fluid? I often use WD40 on aluminum. So what’s in the other bottle?


----------



## Lordbeezer

Picked up a package deal .a hardinge dv-59 and a atlas 618 yesterday .might sound backwards but bought for the atlas .my first lathe was a atlas 618..did a lot of stuff with it.now my go to lathe is a early S series-11" Sheldon..took tailstock and slide off for trip


----------



## Brento

That lathe looks similar to what im picking up this week.


----------



## Lordbeezer

Which one?


----------



## Brento

The atlas im picking up a model a.


----------



## Z2V

Thread wires suck so I bought a thread micrometer. Not an expensive one , Accusize, but it will do me until I land that big NASA contract! Anything has to be better than the wires.


----------



## Brento

5$ wire gages cant complain and ive got ideas on how to use them a little easier.


----------



## Z2V

Yea, I have cork, baby rubber bands, etc. I’m hoping the micrometer will work better for me and my gorilla paws because I find no enjoyment in using the wires.


----------



## Brento

Ive heard of the grease idea many times


----------



## Z2V

Brento said:


> Ive heard of the grease idea many times



Does that work well for you?


----------



## Brento

Idk i just got my first set of wire gages lol. But the red grease you would use for cars the thicker stuff would prob work. Grease cant ruin numbers i mean it will just push out from in between.


----------



## Z2V

I’m anxious to try the mic over the wires. No math involved either.


----------



## Brento

Im a young guy i like the challenge. I wanna dothe manual work instead. Be nice to get back to where im more comfortable. Cnc workbis frustrating to me right now


----------



## Robert LaLonde

This:  https://www.tormach.com/store/index.php?app=ecom&ns=catshow&ref=PCNC1100_Packages_ATC&portrelay=1

Well actually yesterday...


----------



## ttabbal

Bob La Londe said:


> This:  https://www.tormach.com/store/index.php?app=ecom&ns=catshow&ref=PCNC1100_Packages_ATC&portrelay=1
> 
> Well actually yesterday...




I'll send you my address, you can have that shipped to my place.  

Looking forward to hearing about it.


----------



## ACHiPo

Bob La Londe said:


> This: https://www.tormach.com/store/index.php?app=ecom&ns=catshow&ref=PCNC1100_Packages_ATC&portrelay=1
> 
> Well actually yesterday...



Sweet!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Robert LaLonde

I am excited.  Not looking forward to the time it will take to set it up, but I am looking forward to burning through some metal with it.


----------



## jcp

Got a 1/2" Professional Grade drill chuck and MT2 to drawbar arbor from Little Machine Shop for my Clausing 8530 mill. Was pleased to find .0025 TIR when assembled and installed.


----------



## Elijah Durham

P
Moo 0 0+Pollack km00kokkkkk l.p. kmkkmok0kppk0l
Lllllmlp 00000+l.p.kkkookk0o ommkkmk koop0kkkkkpkpk. kkoko0omkmkmkkmmm(Koop lollipops 00

Sent from my LGL83BL using Tapatalk


----------



## Brento

jcp said:


> Got a 1/2" Professional Grade drill chuck and MT2 to drawbar arbor from Little Machine Shop for my Clausing 8530 mill. Was pleased to find .0025 TIR when assembled and installed.


How do you like your mill? Do you have the er attachment?


----------



## jcp

Do not have an ER setup. The mill is more ridged than I expected and has performed great so far. I would like to find a table drive system for the X axis.


----------



## hman

Elijah Durham said:


> P
> Moo 0 0+Pollack km00kokkkkk l.p. kmkkmok0kppk0l
> Lllllmlp 00000+l.p.kkkookk0o ommkkmk koop0kkkkkpkpk. kkoko0omkmkmkkmmm(Koop lollipops 00
> 
> Sent from my LGL83BL using Tapatalk


???????????

Looks like something got lost in translation.


----------



## ACHiPo

Well, it hasn't followed me home (yet), but I finally joined the mill club:  an 8x36 Chinese Enco from 1991 with VFD, 2-axis DRO, and a iGage-type digital indicator on the spindle.


----------



## Robert LaLonde

Really nice setup.  I need a good manual mill like that in my shop.  Nobody sells used equipment for a reasonable price around here.  When it seems reasonable its pretty clapped out and the price still isn't reasonable.


----------



## kvt

Cooter Brown said:


> You said you just got the pass around box, I filled it up with stuff, and I'm going to be on the list again so I can stuff it full again, I'm gonna try to hit 74lbs. lol


Did but had to leave enough in the box for the rest of them.  And did not have enough to replace that much.   That reminds me,   I have to go over an put pictures in.


----------



## kvt

Bob La Londe said:


> Nobody sells used equipment for a reasonable price around here


  I though it was better there than TX,   Or has the good stuff gone across the boarder there also.


----------



## ACHiPo

Bob La Londe said:


> Really nice setup.  I need a good manual mill like that in my shop.  Nobody sells used equipment for a reasonable price around here.  When it seems reasonable its pretty clapped out and the price still isn't reasonable.


Well reasonable is on the eye of the beholder, but it’s clean and just what I’ve been looking for.


----------



## Robert LaLonde

ACHiPo said:


> Well reasonable is on the eye of the beholder, but it’s clean and just what I’ve been looking for.



That is FOR SURE.  I've seen old RF30s sitting on a pallet outdoors around here being offered for 2-3 times what it would cost to buy a brand new RF31 with a stand.  Their eye must be beholding something I sure ain't seeing.  LOL.  Not that I want that.  Ultimately I'll probably just buy new.  Matt over at PM has a couple knee mills that look like what I would want.


----------



## ACHiPo

Bob La Londe said:


> That is FOR SURE.  I've seen old RF30s sitting on a pallet outdoors around here being offered for 2-3 times what it would cost to buy a brand new RF31 with a stand.  Their eye must be beholding something I sure ain't seeing.  LOL.  Not that I want that.  Ultimately I'll probably just buy new.  Matt over at PM has a couple knee mills that look like what I would want.


Bob,
I'd decided to order a PM835 from Matt and then that evening I saw this and was able to pick it up.  It's a "bargain" when compared to new pricing, but I'm ashamed to admit I didn't even haggle--fair price, just what I wanted, dialed in and operational, and less than half what the PM835 would cost me.

Evan


----------



## Robert LaLonde

ACHiPo said:


> Bob,
> I'd decided to order a PM835 from Matt and then that evening I saw this and was able to pick it up.  It's a "bargain" when compared to new pricing, but I'm ashamed to admit I didn't even haggle--fair price, just what I wanted, dialed in and operational, and less than half what the PM835 would cost me.
> 
> Evan




Nothing wrong with that.  I will often pay asking price if its fair.  I don't have to beat somebody up if they aren't  trying to rook me.


----------



## Downwindtracker2

I picked up a 10" faceplate and MT5 to MT3 sleeve for my lathe from Grizzly. My DF1224g is 60mmx8tpi so I'll have to open up the 2 1/4" x 8tpi on the faceplate. I'm set now.   I have the gears, fellow rest, steady rest already. All parts picked off various machine parts lists  that would fit.


----------



## MozamPete

Travelled to Johannesburg and pick up a few small things I had won at auctions over the part couple of months (the auction house knows me and seem quite happy to store my smaller purchases until I’m next in town).
One item was a 6” vise for repair - brought it cheap and thought it would be a nice project to get it going again, main problem was it was missing its lead screw so should be a good learning experiance to make a new one.
It has a few ‘opps’ moment which I intended to fill and machine back, but one on closer examination is threaded so may be factory - but I don’t know what for. 
Any ideas what the threaded hole circled would be for?


----------



## T Bredehoft

Its there to teach the operator to pay attention next time. Drill AND tap too deep.  Just my guess.  It could be a special hold down screw. Does it still have the nut? Or is that another part you'll have to engineer? It looks like a robust vice.


----------



## MozamPete

T Bredehoft said:


> Its there to teach the operator to pay attention next time. Drill AND tap too deep.  Just my guess.  It could be a special hold down screw. Does it still have the nut? Or is that another part you'll have to engineer? It looks like a robust vice.



Only has the two castings, the jaws (pretty banged up), and the hold down plates for the moving jaw - so plenty to engineer. But as you say it is robust so I figured it would be a sacrificial source for cast iron if all else fails.
The hole does seem very central on the way (almost too central to be accidental) but it is only on one of them.
May of been for some custom fixture, if I can’t find a use for it I will just fill it.


----------



## BGHansen

I have two lathes; a G0709 14" x 40" and a Clausing 5418 12" x 24".  Each has a HF tool cart for accessories.  The G0709 is my go to and is well stocked with everything.  So, been impulse buying for the Clausing so I don't have to steal stuff out of the G0709 box.  Picked up a set of digital inside mics from 0.2" - 1.2" and 1" to 2" for the Clausing (already have a set on the Grizzly).  Just my personal preference, I really like the mechanical digital type mics.  Also bought a set of 0-1" and 1"-2" screw pitch mics for the Clausing.  The Grizzly has the same sets and a 2-3" set too.






Also picked up a few things for my Bridgeport.  I have a set of angle gauge blocks that goes from 1 deg. to 30 deg., but didn't have a 1/2 deg. block.  Yeah, pretty poor excuse for picking up a set of 1/2 deg. to 5 deg. ones but they were only $10 delivered.

Also picked up an Interapid 312 vertical style DTI.  Really smooth movement on this one.  The crystal was really scratched up but used my dad's old trick of polishing the lens with toothpaste.  Came out pretty clear, not back to factory shipped but very readable.  Plus it's an Interapid so 'nuff said.

Lastly, an electronic edge finder.  Many sellers of these on eBay for around $15.  Yeah, I know, static readings only so no compensation for spindle/collet run out, but my BP spindle is spot on.  R8 collets and ER collet chuck is around 0.001" so good enough for anything I do.  Have a 20 mm R8 collet on the way from overseas also, edgefinder has a 20 mm shank and a 10 mm ball.  My Anilam CNC controller has an inch/metric switch so easy/peasie finding the edge in metric and switching back to inch.

Bruce


----------



## Robert LaLonde

Well the little 4x6 has had multiple failures in the last few months.  I burned up a motor, chowdered a worm gear, and now the special little Harbor Freight power switch has failed.  Each failure seemed to come at a time when it did the most damage to my productivity.  I can't complain though.  I've had the saw for years and I've been using it every single day for the last couple.  I'd say I've gotten atleast five years of light commercial use out of it.  That's far more than I ever expected to get out of it.  

I had a deal offered on a nice 7x12 from Precision Mathews, but by the time I got around to buying it they had sold that one and are out of stock for another 6-8 weeks.  I looked at Grizzly and it looks nice.  Similar price to Precision Mathews, but I've heard a few claims that Grizzly QC may be slipping the last year or two.  I thought about Harbor Freight again.  I know they stock the little 4x6 locally, but I have not seen a larger saw on the floor in years.  Still I thought if I can get five years daily use out of a bigger one it would do.  I checked the price on-line and chased down a current coupon code for 20% off.  I was just about to order one on-line and I decided to call the store to see if they had one.  They had two.  That would cost me an extra $20 in city sales tax on top of the state sales tax, but save me $90 freight and I'd have it today.  (yesterday)

At the store it was a bit of a chore to get the saw out of a conex box, but the box/crate came out intact.  

When I uncrated the saw back at the shop I was very pleasantly surprised.  Its quite a lot better built than the smaller saw, has a coolant tank with pump if I want to run it, and of course has the pneumatic feed control for cutting thin wall tube.  I have to say its the best built Harbor Freight tool I have seen in a long time.  The first thing I did after getting it setup was throw a piece of 2" EMT in the saw, set the pneumatic feed, and watch it slice off the end.  Oh, was that nice.  I hardly even heard a change in pitch as it transitioned from the wide entry cut to cutting the thin sidewalls.  

As much work and headache as the smaller saw has saved me this one will save me even more.  

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-7-inch-x-12-inch-hydraulic-feed-metal-cutting-bandsaw-97009.html


----------



## Z2V

Nice saw Bob, I got a 4x6 saw yesterday off CL


----------



## BGHansen

Bob La Londe said:


> Well the little 4x6 has had multiple failures in the last few months.  I burned up a motor, chowdered a worm gear, and now the special little Harbor Freight power switch has failed.  Each failure seemed to come at a time when it did the most damage to my productivity.  I can't complain though.  I've had the saw for years and I've been using it every single day for the last couple.  I'd say I've gotten atleast five years of light commercial use out of it.  That's far more than I ever expected to get out of it.
> 
> I had a deal offered on a nice 7x12 from Precision Mathews, but by the time I got around to buying it they had sold that one and are out of stock for another 6-8 weeks.  I looked at Grizzly and it looks nice.  Similar price to Precision Mathews, but I've heard a few claims that Grizzly QC may be slipping the last year or two.  I thought about Harbor Freight again.  I know they stock the little 4x6 locally, but I have not seen a larger saw on the floor in years.  Still I thought if I can get five years daily use out of a bigger one it would do.  I checked the price on-line and chased down a current coupon code for 20% off.  I was just about to order one on-line and I decided to call the store to see if they had one.  They had two.  That would cost me an extra $20 in city sales tax on top of the state sales tax, but save me $90 freight and I'd have it today.  (yesterday)
> 
> At the store it was a bit of a chore to get the saw out of a conex box, but the box/crate came out intact.
> 
> When I uncrated the saw back at the shop I was very pleasantly surprised.  Its quite a lot better built than the smaller saw, has a coolant tank with pump if I want to run it, and of course has the pneumatic feed control for cutting thin wall tube.  I have to say its the best built Harbor Freight tool I have seen in a long time.  The first thing I did after getting it setup was throw a piece of 2" EMT in the saw, set the pneumatic feed, and watch it slice off the end.  Oh, was that nice.  I hardly even heard a change in pitch as it transitioned from the wide entry cut to cutting the thin sidewalls.
> 
> As much work and headache as the smaller saw has saved me this one will save me even more.
> 
> https://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-7-inch-x-12-inch-hydraulic-feed-metal-cutting-bandsaw-97009.html



Bob, you are going to love that saw.  I bought one 18 months ago and agree that it's better than most HF tools.  Here's a POTD link to a mod I made on my saw to help get the coolant back into the tank.

Bruce

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...in-your-shop-today.14637/page-272#post-422579


----------



## f350ca

You'll like that saw Bob, I have one from Princess Auto, Canada's poor excuse for Harbour Freight. I've had it 8 or 10 years now, wouldn't want to guess the blades its worn out but its never missed a beat. The blade cooling makes a HUGE difference. I was steady wearing out blades on the 4x6, they last for ever on this one wet, even running one step up on the pulleys when cutting steel.

Greg


----------



## vocatexas

I went to an auction today. The flier said 'machinist box with tools'. That had my interest.

When I got there, I headed to the first toolbox I saw-a Kennedy roll-around with a Kennedy top chest separated by some type of home-made mid-box thing. This box was FULL of end mills, taps, dies, drill bit, reamers, and various measuring tools. Some of the end mills and taps are still covered with their wax protectorant...never used. There are also a few adjustable parallels, a couple of V-blocks, and a step block. Also a Starrett depth micrometer, Starrett planer and shaper gage, one complete and one partial set of Starrett  telescoping gages, and at least two Brown and Sharp Best Tests. Some of these have never been used either.
To tell the truth, I haven't had time to inventory the box, but I paid $300 for the box and contents, so I'm pretty sure I came out in the good. I know there are more micrometers, hole gages, radius gages, etc. I'll have to post back later on the contents if anyone is interested.

Edit: Oh, I forgot...a Twentieth Edition of Machinery's Handbook was nesting in the toolchest's book drawer. It doesn't look used either.


----------



## Z2V

Congrats, sounds like you made out very well.


----------



## Brento

vocatexas said:


> I went to an auction today. The flier said 'machinist box with tools'. That had my interest.
> 
> When I got there, I headed to the first toolbox I saw-a Kennedy roll-around with a Kennedy top chest separated by some type of home-made mid-box thing. This box was FULL of end mills, taps, dies, drill bit, reamers, and various measuring tools. Some of the end mills and taps are still covered with their wax protectorant...never used. There are also a few adjustable parallels, a couple of V-blocks, and a step block. Also a Starrett depth micrometer, Starrett planer and shaper gage, one complete and one partial set of Starrett  telescoping gages, and at least two Brown and Sharp Best Tests. Some of these have never been used either.
> To tell the truth, I haven't had time to inventory the box, but I paid $300 for the box and contents, so I'm pretty sure I came out in the good. I know there are more micrometers, hole gages, radius gages, etc. I'll have to post back later on the contents if anyone is interested.
> 
> Edit: Oh, I forgot...a Twentieth Edition of Machinery's Handbook was nesting in the toolchest's book drawer. It doesn't look used either.


I can take that kennedy top box and an endmill or two off your hands if its to much? Nice find though.


----------



## ACHiPo

vocatexas said:


> I went to an auction today. The flier said 'machinist box with tools'. That had my interest.
> 
> When I got there, I headed to the first toolbox I saw-a Kennedy roll-around with a Kennedy top chest separated by some type of home-made mid-box thing. This box was FULL of end mills, taps, dies, drill bit, reamers, and various measuring tools. Some of the end mills and taps are still covered with their wax protectorant...never used. There are also a few adjustable parallels, a couple of V-blocks, and a step block. Also a Starrett depth micrometer, Starrett planer and shaper gage, one complete and one partial set of Starrett  telescoping gages, and at least two Brown and Sharp Best Tests. Some of these have never been used either.
> To tell the truth, I haven't had time to inventory the box, but I paid $300 for the box and contents, so I'm pretty sure I came out in the good. I know there are more micrometers, hole gages, radius gages, etc. I'll have to post back later on the contents if anyone is interested.
> 
> Edit: Oh, I forgot...a Twentieth Edition of Machinery's Handbook was nesting in the toolchest's book drawer. It doesn't look used either.


Yeah


----------



## Brain Coral

I drove down to Calaise Maine on Friday, between snowstorms, to pick up my latest Ebay purchase. The seller didn't ship to Canada, so I had it sent to my postal address in Calaise. This is a 15" Schultes Master Precision Level. The isolation material on the top, has a good chunk out of it, and that was shown in the sale pics, but that, in no way, affects the use of the level.  The hand scraping looks excellent on the bottom. I don't think that it ever saw much use. On my way home, I stopped in to my buddies shop,  calibrated it and we re-leveled his 13" South Bend with it. Some will say that these are too fussy to use, leveling a lathe, at .0005" per foot, but we had no problem at all. You do need a very light touch on the wrench.








I know that there will be the inevitable question about what I paid for it. I paid $80.00 USD plus $18.00 shipping, then add in around $50.00 CAD in fuel. So right around $138.00 USD. I had never heard of the Schultes Level Co. before I bought this level. I am VERY pleased with my purchase. 

Apparently, someone didn't read the label on the box... 

Brian


----------



## vocatexas

BC, congrats, that level looks like a beauty. Love the flaking on the bottom.

Brento, let me get an inventory done and I'll get back to you on the end mill.


----------



## Brento

vocatexas said:


> Brento, let me get an inventory done and I'll get back to you on the end mill.


That is very generous of you but i was just joking with you. No need to.


----------



## vocatexas

Brento said:


> That is very generous of you but i was just joking with you. No need to.



Well, turns out that's a good thing. I unloaded the box a while ago and started going through it. All the end mills with the wax on them were in one compartment of a drawer. I guess somebody decided they needed them worse than I do. I guess between the time I bought it and the time I loaded it, somebody pocketed a half-dozen new end mills.

I'm not happy about that, but there's still enough there that I came out alright. I haven't had that happen at an auction in years. Lesson learned...


----------



## Brento

Thats sad atleast they didnt take the instruments though and you got a nice kennedy box out of it so.


----------



## woodchucker

vocatexas said:


> Well, turns out that's a good thing. I unloaded the box a while ago and started going through it. All the end mills with the wax on them were in one compartment of a drawer. I guess somebody decided they needed them worse than I do. I guess between the time I bought it and the time I loaded it, somebody pocketed a half-dozen new end mills.
> 
> I'm not happy about that, but there's still enough there that I came out alright. I haven't had that happen at an auction in years. Lesson learned...



There's a dirt bag around every corner.


----------



## ACHiPo

Ok, so I actually bought this the other day, but brought it home today.

Big shout out to Bob Korves, Ulma Doctor, and Rex Walters for their help relocating the mill.  I sure am lucky to have such good people close enough to help me out!


----------



## MonkMan

MonkMan said:


> I finally got my new compressor installed. Now on to the MaxLine system install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 241438









Just finished up the install last night. Very tough getting the lines to run straight even withe the roller tool. All & all It came out well and holds 90 psi I wanted.


----------



## hman

MonkMan said:


> View attachment 262015


That's a VERY nice looking source point assembly!   Is this a "kit" available from MaxLine, or did you assemble it with parts from several suppliers?


----------



## MonkMan

Hi hman, I started with the basic kit shown above and added a few extras. The dual port at the mill station, various valves and fittings and the gauge. I found I needed more mounting clips. It worked out well, used all but 10 feet.


----------



## mmcmdl

I bought plane tickets . The wife and daughter are heading to Vegas tomorrow morning thru Friday to see a Reba McIntyre and Brooks and Dunn concert . The tickets were round trip , if otherwise , I would be buying more and MORE TOOLS !


----------



## Uglydog

8foot vintage cast iron parallel.
No pics yet....
Supposedly flat and straight. Will see.
If not, I've got work to do.....
But, it's not work. It is more practice.

Daryl
MN


----------



## mmcmdl

Dog ! An 8 ft parallel ? My god , I'de hate to see the vise that was used in !


----------



## hman

MonkMan said:


> View attachment 262140
> 
> Hi hman, I started with the basic kit shown above and added a few extras. The dual port at the mill station, various valves and fittings and the gauge. I found I needed more mounting clips. It worked out well, used all but 10 feet.


Thanks!


----------



## roadie33

MonkMan said:


> View attachment 262140
> 
> Hi hman, I started with the basic kit shown above and added a few extras. The dual port at the mill station, various valves and fittings and the gauge. I found I needed more mounting clips. It worked out well, used all but 10 feet.



Paul,
Who did you buy everything from?

I have been looking at doing that in my basement shop.
Looks to be a whole lot easier and possibly cheaper than copper or pipe, plus all the fittings.


----------



## Buffalo21

In a moment of weakness, I lent my MGEHR 1212-2 parting tool, to a now ex-friend, who now believes it’s his. As with hindsight, I’d rather buy another parting tool, than persue his friendship, I ordered a new parting tool today. It’s a cheap, BangGood tool, with 10 inserts, that works remarkably well, so another parting tool, for about $17, with free shipping and guaranteed delivery by 3/24, how could I go wrong.


----------



## brino

Buffalo21 said:


> how could I go wrong



Lend it to someone! 
-brino


----------



## ACHiPo

Some "starter" HSS end mills and a clamping set for a new vise expected tomorrow.


----------



## Buffalo21

I went out with a girl, when I lived in Milwaukee, that relationship ended on so-so terms, but remain a good friend of her brother. The brother, up until last year worked for an industrial supplier, in San Juan, PR, that sold cutting tools and other stuff to countries in the Caribbean, Mexico, Central and South America, but for some reason, not the US. He, from time to time, would send me samples, the last group of HSS end mills, he sent me, all had 3/8” shanks, like the ones shown by ACHiPo. They were samples from South Korea, no brand marking, meant to be private labeled by the seller,. He sent a dozen each from 1/8” to 1/2”, in 1/16” steps, in both 2 and 4 flute versions. These were a first for me, up until they arrived, all of my end mill, the shank and flutes, were the same size. They work great, 2 weeks after he sent them, he quit, go to work for M-B, in Argentina.


----------



## MonkMan

roadie33 said:


> Paul,
> Who did you buy everything from?
> 
> I have been looking at doing that in my basement shop.
> Looks to be a whole lot easier and possibly cheaper than copper or pipe, plus all the fittings.



Mike,

I got the the 3/4" maxline basic system and the Prevost air couplers and plugs from Amazon. All the other miscellaneous fittings and valves from McMaster-Carr. For my size shop I could have gone with the their 1/2" system and saved a good bit of $$. (hindsight is always 20-20)

Paul


----------



## Brento

I bought a gerstner look a like tool chest for 60$ at harbor freight and a 20 drawer plastic organizer for 5$


----------



## The_Apprentice

This arrived a few days ago. But one of our cats (who is a guard-dog wanabie), keeps claiming it as his own and won't let me open it!


----------



## roadie33

Might have to do some bribing then.


----------



## JimDawson

Maybe try canned tuna


----------



## GoceKU

Or a bucket of water.


----------



## 682bear

The company that I work for has a rewards program where they give employees 'reward points' if the employee is deemed to have went 'above and beyond the normal' in job performance. I have collected enough of these points to redeem them for a $400.00 prepaid mastercard.

So, I decided to do some shopping...




I placed an order with CDCO for a CXA wedge qctp set, a 3 inch R8 boring head, a 5C collet block set, and a metric thread gage set.

Its like Christmas in here right now!

-Bear


----------



## woodchucker

682bear said:


> Its like Christmas in here right now!


I'll send some snow down your way.. then it will really be a white Christmas.
it's piling up ..
Enjoy... 
Those CX look like AX sitting on the mill.. funny how the scale is off by what must be a large table.


----------



## 682bear

Now that you mention it, they do look small... its a 9x49 table.

-Bear


----------



## JimDawson

My son decided it was time to get a higher production CNC mill than we have now.  So he just bought a 2016 Haas TM2P.  It'll be loaded on the truck in the morning, it's in Florida at the moment.

This is a picture of a actual machine, not a sales brochure.  This machine is brand new, only 130 hours.  Was purchased new by a retired gentleman and he apparently decided to do something else in his golden years.  Has every offered option.




2016 Haas TM2P
Specifications for Haas TM2P VMC:
X Axis Travel: 40
Y Axis Travel: 16
Z Axis Travel: 16
Rapid Rates: 400 IPM
Taper: CAT 40
Spindle Speed: 6,000 RPM
Spindle Motor: 7.5 HP
Tool Changer: 20 ATC

Equipped with:
4th Axis Drive
Chip Auger
Rigid Tapping
High Flow Coolant Pump
High Speed Machining
Wireless Intuitive Probing
-Macros
-Spindle Orientation
-Coordinate Rotation/Scaling
-Visual Programming System
Early Power Failure Detection Mode
Work Light
20 Tool Holders

Now I just have to find room for it in my shop, I think the router is going to have to go.   But it will be nice to have a machine in the shop that does not require an upgrade to 30 year old electronics.

Edit:  My son just sent a better picture


----------



## brino

JimDawson said:


> So he just bought a 2016 Haas TM2P. It'll be loaded on the truck in the morning, it's in Florida at the moment.



Two things:

1) Couldn't you find one further away on the same continent? 

2) Congratulations! I envy you being able to work closely with your son. Enjoy every precious minute!

-brino


----------



## JimDawson

An update : On the truck In Flordia


----------



## dlane

Nice Hope it makes it out to you without a scratch , Afraid to ask what that cost .


----------



## Firestopper

Sexy machine Jim .

Paco


----------



## Jake2465

Congrats, Jim! Your both going to love the added capability! Go big or go home .


----------



## T Bredehoft

And  he's claiming he's just a hobbyist!.  Eisenhower was just a soldier, too.


----------



## extropic

Very impressive Jim. I don't envy you the job of shoehorning that big boy into your shop.
Gods speed with all that.


----------



## Z2V

Over the last couple days I have picked up a VFD and a 2 hp 3 ph motor. The Teco- Westinghouse motor was bought off Amazon from Dealers Industrial. The shipping was 7-10 days. I bought it Wednesday and it was delivered yesterday, drop shipped from Teco- Westinghouse which is five miles from me. Free shipping to boot. Now I need to start on making a controller. I will probably put this on the mill.


----------



## The_Apprentice

> eco- Westinghouse which is five miles from me. Free shipping to boot.



Some machinists get all the luck...

Enjoy


----------



## GoceKU

Every so often i order myself cheap china centre drills one of which arrived today.


----------



## Jake2465

I have a SB 405 lathe that uses the old 1 1/2 x 10 TPI thread spindle nose. I just picked up this spindle from eBay that I will use to replace what I currently have with a Model-C spindle so I can have the common 1 1/2 x 8 TPI spindle nose.


----------



## Z2V

The_Apprentice said:


> Some machinists get all the luck...
> 
> Enjoy



Ha, I’ll take a little luck but I’m definitely not a machinist.

Today I ordered some relay sockets, a 24VDC power supply, 5k pot, 7/8-20 R8 for a boring head, and a couple Micro 100 boring bits. Still need to pick up some switches and get started on a controller!


----------



## mmcmdl

Jim , very sweet machine for sure ! I stopped up my one of my past employers and they had just got a 5 axis Haas delivered which they promptly crashed and destroyed the top end . They expect to get her back online in a few months .


----------



## mmcmdl

I went to buy a Foredom flex grinder and ended up with this instead . Oh well , it reminded me of the New York property so all is good .

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Terry-Redl...990737?hash=item2ca55e7011:g:uSsAAOSwHQ9WYe0G


----------



## ACHiPo

This arrived a couple days ago, but I "installed" it this morning.  The ring light is great.  The little LED spot is pretty anemic.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/543207...6XAU8Rym8apVEhve0yk2KV5urmLWiTeRoCweYQAvD_BwE


----------



## ACHiPo

mmcmdl said:


> I went to buy a Foredom flex grinder and ended up with this instead . Oh well , it reminded me of the New York property so all is good .
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Terry-Redl...990737?hash=item2ca55e7011:g:uSsAAOSwHQ9WYe0G


That is what I'd call a tangent.  Terry Redlin was my wife's second cousin.  Her mom had two of his original paintings, but they went to the other side of the family when she passed.


----------



## mmcmdl

I missed the grinder so I let the wife win for once ! ( that makes it easier for future tool purchases ) . I was drawn to this darn picture myself . Something about the colors in it I guess ? Anyway , I hope to find it a home up in the Adirondacks soon !


----------



## Buffalo21

The MGEHR1212-2 parting tool, I ordered on the 14th, arrived on Friday, technically 1 day early (guaranteed delivery date was 3/24) from China. Tool looks like the one I lost, what’s left of my old inserts, fit perfectly and the new inserts look great. So it cost me, $17 to end a crappy friendship, if I’d known I could do it this cheaply, I would have done it years ago, and save all the grief.


----------



## magicniner

I always drop into my favourite tool shop if I'm in the area, often there's nothing that I "Must Have" but this morning this was on their counter display 




Now it's in my kitchen, this afternoon it will migrate to the workshop ;-)


----------



## DHarris

Daaaaammmmnnnnnn, that's bigger than my whole lathe!!!!


----------



## Z2V

Last week I bought a 2hp 3 ph motor and VFD. This week I’m accumulating what I need for a controller. Circuit breaker, 24v power supply, din rail, relay sockets, switch box, wire, Machtach, solder station, etc. Most of it will be here tomorrow with the rest on Friday hopefully.
I’d like to get started on it this weekend. Will see.


----------



## ddickey

Z2V said:


> Last week I bought a 2hp 3 ph motor and VFD. This week I’m accumulating what I need for a controller. Circuit breaker, 24v power supply, din rail, relay sockets, switch box, wire, Machtach, solder station, etc. Most of it will be here tomorrow with the rest on Friday hopefully.
> I’d like to get started on it this weekend. Will see.


What are you making?


----------



## Z2V

I’m putting the new motor on my mill so I will have variable speed without messing with the belts. Changing the belt arrangement is a pain. After I finish the mill I will probably do the same to the lathe. I’m not at all happy with the arrangement there.


----------



## JimDawson

The Eagle Has Landed 

We ordered a milling machine and they sent us a boiler 


OK, we found the mill, it was hiding under a tarp. 



Another workout for ''Big Orange''.  Glad we live on a low traffic country road.  No traffic at all during the 5 minute lift, had both lanes blocked.  Had to borrow the neighbors driveway to pick it from the back.




Off of the truck



Homeward bound.  Slow and easy.  Had to use fork extensions.. I really wasn't very comfortable with that, but the front of the machine is pretty light, and the total weight is only about 5000 lbs.  Most of the bulk is just sheet metal enclosure, the frame itself is only a bit larger than a BP.




Here is it's new home, a large hole that needs to be filled with something.  That's where the router used to sit.




In the shop, finally.  It was trying to slide to the left a bit, not sure why, but we made it.  




This is where we set it down to get it rigged for the next lift.  Haas provides lifting points for a top lift so in order to get it into position we will use those, couldn't really do that to get it off of the truck.  (BTW, the lathe on the left is almost ready to run  )




This pic shows the rigging for the lift, with the tension off, we were a bit busy while it was in the air so didn't get any pics.  We really had to keep it tight, there was about 1 inch clearance between the forklift backstop and the roof truss, pretty tight.  Lifting on a truck axle laid across the forks and through the swivel eye ring.  The spreader is a 4 inch square x 1/4 wall tube.  Hass provides a drawing of the spreader dimensions to get the balance correct.  The come-alongs were carrying <2000 lbs between them.   We had to pick it up and spin it around 180°, but the swivel hook made that easy.



Another view of the rigging.



And here it is sitting in it's new home.  It has 3 feet clearance around the back and right side.



We'll get it wired in today (Saturday), should be making chips by Monday.


----------



## TomS

JimDawson said:


> The Eagle Has Landed
> 
> We ordered a milling machine and they sent us a boiler
> View attachment 263810
> 
> OK, we found the mill, it was hiding under a tarp.
> View attachment 263812
> 
> 
> Another workout for ''Big Orange''.  Glad we live on a low traffic country road.  No traffic at all during the 5 minute lift, had both lanes blocked.  Had to borrow the neighbors driveway to pick it from the back.
> 
> View attachment 263813
> 
> 
> Off of the truck
> View attachment 263823
> 
> 
> Homeward bound.  Slow and easy.  Has to use fork extensions.. I really wasn't very comfortable with that, but the front of the machine is pretty light, and the total weight is only about 5000 lbs.  Most of the bulk is just sheet metal enclosure, the frame itself is only a bit larger than a BP.
> 
> View attachment 263814
> 
> 
> Here is it's new home, a large hole that needs to be filled with something.  That's where the router used to sit.
> View attachment 263822
> 
> 
> 
> In the shop, finally.  It was trying to slid to the left a bit, not sure why, but we made it.
> 
> View attachment 263815
> 
> 
> This is where we set it down to get it rigged for the next lift.  Haas provides lifting points for a top lift so in order to get it into position we will use those, couldn't really do that to get it off of the truck.  (BTW, the lathe on the left is almost ready to run  )
> 
> View attachment 263816
> 
> 
> This pic shows the rigging for the lift, with the tension off, we were a bit busy while it was in the air so didn't get any pics.  We really had to keep it tight, there was about 1 inch clearance between the forklift backstop and the roof truss, pretty tight.  Lifting on a truck axle laid across the forks and through the swivel eye ring.  The spreader is a 4 inch square x 1/4 wall tube.  Hass provides a drawing of the spreader dimensions to get the balance correct.  The come-alongs were carrying <2000 lbs between them.   We had to pick it up and spin it around 180°, but the swivel hook made that easy.
> View attachment 263818
> 
> 
> Another view of the rigging.
> View attachment 263820
> 
> 
> And here it is sitting in it's new home.  It has 3 feet clearance around the back and right side.
> View attachment 263821
> 
> 
> We'll get it wired in today (Saturday), should be making chips by Monday.



That's one nice machine!  Any specific plans for it or just something to have?


----------



## JimDawson

TomS said:


> That's one nice machine!  Any specific plans for it or just something to have?



Thank you !

It will be used for general use and we will take in outside work, but my son really bought it for manufacturing his Stable Camper parts.  https://www.stablecamper.com/


----------



## JimDawson

Did a little more shopping today, picked up 59 endmills from 1 1/4 inch down to 1/8 inch, including a set of corner rounders and a bunch of cobalt roughers, all new and name brand.  And about 30 reamers.  All for $250, it was one of those deals I couldn't pass up.

Edit:  I should note that this was paid for by the 7500 lbs of scrap metal that we took to the scrap yard.  A good trade in my book.


----------



## Z2V

Wow Jim, wish I could find a deal like that. Nice haul!


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited couple flea markets, it's been sometime since i've bought anything from there, i did a lot walking and looking but there wasn't too many tools, but did managed to find this threading die holder with M25x1,5 die, unusual size but may come in handy, made a package deal with the threading tap which i did not realize is left thread until i got it in my shop, also bought two sets of screw drivers one for each garage.


----------



## Flat fender

I purchased this 2" face mill (used 1 time) off CL yesterday for $80.




FF


----------



## Ianagos

It was a little ago but it’s just getting running now and still needs lots more work but I bought a small vmc. Also have been purchasing lots of tooling for it.


----------



## vtcnc

13 hr road trip last Tuesday yielded this gem...




As far as I can tell, no major problems (cracks or JB weld repairs). Has a fair amount of backlash, but that can be minimized. Also came with a vertical milling attachment with it's own 1/2HP motor...



I've been looking for one of these mills for about 2 years now. This one popped up on Maine CL about two weeks ago and I jumped all over it.


----------



## T Bredehoft

vtcnc said:


> 've been looking for one of these mills for about 2 years now.



A lot of us are envious of your good fortune.  I don't need one of them but still would like to have one.


----------



## Ianagos

That’s a neat little mill. Sometimes you need a horizontal for certain things and that seems small enough to be compact but also able to do lots of stuff.


----------



## jsh

Well I didn't buy anything but did stop by and see a good friend of mine. He gifted me some brand new #2 taper bits, a few green wheels, a diamond cut off blade, 10' of 3/4" nylon all thread, couple of cans of cleaner and a dozen halogen bulbs. 

Just part of his haul from a dumpster dive. 
We wonder why things are so high, yet the waste in this country is rediculous.


----------



## kvt

Jsh,   Regulations, liability, and law suits all have a lot of business scared to do anything except destroy or discard stuff.   Most do not even let people that work for them have/purchase it either.  Law suites have their place but so does common sense but I think a lot of people have lost that.


----------



## jsh

The stuff mentioned, in a nut shell, had been in stock over 9 months and not sold. This is not on all items in this store, but still quite a few. These items were brand new, never used. 
The drill bits mentioned, two days later a shop called wanting one of a size that I got. 
No sale.....

The other fasteners and stuff he has just makes one shake their head.


----------



## francist

vtcnc said:


> 13 hr road trip last Tuesday yielded this gem...
> 
> 
> 
> As far as I can tell, no major problems (cracks or JB weld repairs). Has a fair amount of backlash, but that can be minimized. Also came with a vertical milling attachment with it's own 1/2HP motor...
> 
> 
> I've been looking for one of these mills for about 2 years now. This one popped up on Maine CL about two weeks ago and I jumped all over it.



Nice!

Looks like maybe one of the earlier 4-step pulley versions? And in its original livery yet, too. Is the serial number still legible? I have number 976.

-frank


----------



## vtcnc

T Bredehoft said:


> A lot of us are envious of your good fortune.  I don't need one of them but still would like to have one.


This is an upgrade for me. Sherline mill down in the basement and it is just too small and light.


----------



## vtcnc

francist said:


> Nice!
> 
> Looks like maybe one of the earlier 4-step pulley versions? And in its original livery yet, too. Is the serial number still legible? I have number 976.
> 
> -frank


It is an MF model, serial no. #2985


----------



## mmcmdl

Friday evening I met up with Brentos from HM up in Bainbridge NY . I went up to the property up in the Adirondacks and he met me near his hunting camp up there . It was very nice to meet his wife and his parents as well as Brent who is an aspiring machinist trainee . Nice family one and all . His Kennedy box was delivered as well as a set of point mics and a drop indicator . So he bought something related to HM . Me ? Well of course I sold him his tools and I met up with my buddy up in the mountains and bought a Remington Model 700 .338 Winchester Magnum . He has 4 more rifles of old age straight out of the Illion factory , one of which is a serial # 0000007 . I thought the guns were all sold last year but the other buyer couldn't come up with the bucks . I was quite surprised and happy to find them at his place and I had the chance to purchase them from him . I wanted something from his cabin and some of his posessions just in case as we are all getting older . All in all , a great weekend ! ( there was still 2-3 foot of snow on the property but the weather was sunny and the dogs and I got to run in the woods for hrs )


----------



## Ianagos

vtcnc said:


> T Bredehoft said:
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of us are envious of your good fortune. I don't need one of them but still would like to have one.
> 
> 
> 
> This is an upgrade for me. Sherline mill down in the basement and it is just too small and light.
Click to expand...


If you ever need something bigger made let me know. I’m not much for fast turn arounds but if somebody needs help around here I’m willing to try.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i was in the area where the scrap yards are located so i stop by one i've been before, i found couple of things first of which was this small red shelf clean good for light things, then i found the green bigger shelf this one needs little cleanup but the size and shape is perfect for machinist tools and last thing i found was this working big cast iron air compressor, is russian made probably from a truck, i do need a bigger air compressor, so it may become a project for the future, all together just under 10$ so worth the visit.


----------



## JimDawson

Did a little more shopping with the scrap metal money   Have another 5000 or so lbs to get rid of.

A never used Albrecht 0-1/2 chuck: $125
Above on the right a Sandvik face mill, similar to the Shear-Hog
And on the left, a never used Kennametal face mill: $221 for the pair.  A heck of a deal.




And the Haas is ready to make chips.  That was the easiest machine install we ever did. Run a conduit, connect the wires, connect to air, level, and ready to make chips.


----------



## TomS

JimDawson said:


> Did a little more shopping with the scrap metal money   Have another 5000 or so lbs to get rid of.
> 
> A never used Albrecht 0-1/2 chuck: $125
> Above on the right a Sandvik face mill, similar to the Shear-Hog
> And on the left, a never used Kennametal face mill: $221 for the pair.  A heck of a deal.
> 
> View attachment 263978
> 
> 
> And the Haas is ready to make chips.  That was the easiest machine install we ever did. Run a conduit, connect the wires, connect to air, level, and ready to make chips.



Please post pictures/video of the Haas making chips.  I, for one, would love to see it in operation.  I'm jealous!


----------



## Brento

JimDawson said:


> Did a little more shopping today, picked up 59 endmills from 1 1/4 inch down to 1/8 inch, including a set of corner rounders and a bunch of cobalt roughers, all new and name brand.  And about 30 reamers.  All for $250, it was one of those deals I couldn't pass up.
> 
> Edit:  I should note that this was paid for by the 7500 lbs of scrap metal that we took to the scrap yard.  A good trade in my book.
> View attachment 263839


Id love to find a deal like that. I have a few endmills but most are carbide and 4 flute which is great for any of my steel work but i do need some hss for aluminum work.


GoceKU said:


> Today i visited couple flea markets, it's been sometime since i've bought anything from there, i did a lot walking and looking but there wasn't too many tools, but did managed to find this threading die holder with M25x1,5 die, unusual size but may come in handy, made a package deal with the threading tap which i did not realize is left thread until i got it in my shop, also bought two sets of screw drivers one for each garage.
> View attachment 263868
> View attachment 263867


Ive actually been looking for one of those dies. I want to make a er16 collet holder for my sb9a but i dont have the gears for metric threading. So i have to unfortunately put that project on hold until i can either get 3d printed gears or build a indexer to make my own.


----------



## JimDawson

TomS said:


> Please post pictures/video of the Haas making chips.  I, for one, would love to see it in operation.  I'm jealous!



We will do that.  It will be a few days, getting the palettes ready.  Have a 48x96x1 MIC6 aluminum plate that will be the new palettes.


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Scored a nice mix of steel from a retired machinist.


----------



## Brento

How are you people so lucky lol


----------



## RandyM

Brento said:


> How are you people so lucky lol



It takes a lot of hard work and persistence.


----------



## Brento

Yea i dont really have anyone to go to for material unless i buy from a store. My job sometimes gets a bit of material that could be used for something but bc of it being government jobs they have to keep track of all of it.


----------



## mmcmdl

Brento said:


> Yea i dont really have anyone to go to for material unless i buy from a store. My job sometimes gets a bit of material that could be used for something but bc of it being government jobs they have to keep track of all of it.



Brent , I've got tons of junk material and I now know how to get it to ya !


----------



## Silverbullet

Just ordered 24 cans of tap magic delivered from Amazon for $12.50 total to my door. It's like 87% discount . Found it posted on here . Won't last at this price , resellers on eBay will buy it up.


----------



## Cadillac

Didn’t buy today but was on the porch when I got home. Teco vfd for my new surface grinder. Now just waiting for breakers and the controls will be done.


----------



## middle.road

Picked this pair up about six weeks ago, just finished the cleanup this weekend.
Cleaned up nicely, used them a couple of nights ago to make the dovetail on a couple of wood rails for holding BXA holders.


----------



## Bamban

Last week I received email ad from The Little Machine Shop  and in there there is that rotating MT3 adapter for tail stock. Reading about the compatibility, it showed one of their 3 inch chucks to fit the bolt center of the adapter.

Thinking back when I bought the 9x20 it came with a couple of 3J Bison chucks, one 3 inch and the other is 5 inch. I never had the need to use the 3 inch, I was able to do everything I need to do with the 9x20 using the 5 inch chuck.

I measured the bolt center on the 3 inch chuck, looks like it is perfect fit, so on to the website and ordered the rotating adapter.

Today, the adapter came in. Sure enough the two pieces bolted nicely.

There were times in the past when I could have used such an accessory, when a center would not work. I think this will serve me well for a long time. I may build a spider for the adapter and use the finger clamps with ball bearing for longer clamping area and the ability to center up nicely.


----------



## Bamban

Short videos. TIR is not bad on the three inch Bison 3J.


----------



## Ianagos

Silverbullet said:


> Just ordered 24 cans of tap magic delivered from Amazon for $12.50 total to my door. It's like 87% discount . Found it posted on here . Won't last at this price , resellers on eBay will buy it up.



I got in on that too I’m worried that they may just ship one and say the ad was wrong though.


----------



## DoogieB

Bamban said:


> here were times in the past when I could have used such an accessory, when a center would not work. I think this will serve me well for a long time. I may build a spider for the adapter and use the finger clamps with ball bearing for longer clamping area and the ability to center up nicely.



I fabricated a chuck tailstock last year, but it's a small (3") 4 jaw chuck that slips onto my favorite live center as needed.  Just needed to machine a backplate to fit.

I wouldn't say it's absolutely necessary or used frequently, but it does make certain operations quicker or easier.


----------



## magicniner

This arrived today 




I have a 4-Axis mill conversion in the pipeline and this might just replace a PC, Mach3, and BOB, just what I need, another Learning Curve! ;-)


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Picked this up today. Got it home tuned it up and it is cutting perfect. Happy day.


----------



## mmcmdl

Didn't buy a thing , but I'm loading up Craigslist to sell ! Coinsidence on the saw !  Clearing lots of stuff out over the past 3 weeks .


----------



## foleda

Just returned from a road trip that took me near Cleveland, OH.  I couldn't resist a stop at HGR Surplus where I picked up 4 rollers:


2.75" diameter by 53"-- just shy of 400 lbs of ballast for the rest of my trip home.

I am trying to ID the alloy.  I only have a limited number of reference samples: 1018, 4140, and O-1.  The rollers spark like 4140 but I am not sure
if that is enough to rule out other alloys with a similar carbon content, e.g. 1045 or 4340.  Are there any other tests that might narrow it down?


----------



## FOMOGO

Got in on the Tap Magic deal, and ordered six of the Husky boxes that someone (Thanks) on here highlighted. should make getting things organized a little easier when I move into the new space in a month or so. Mike

46"Wx24.5"Dx37"H marked down to $248


----------



## JimDawson

As promised, the first test cuts with the new Haas TM2-P   The little beeps you hear in the background is my son bringing up the feed speed.  The second video is a run at full speed and 5000 RPM


----------



## Cadillac

So i bit the bullet and and bought some premium spindle grease. Been waiting for this package for reassembly. Looks like I’ll be busy tonight.


----------



## mmcmdl

FOMOGO said:


> Got in on the Tap Magic deal, and ordered six of the Husky boxes that someone (Thanks) on here highlighted. should make getting things organized a little easier when I move into the new space in a month or so. Mike
> 
> 46"Wx24.5"Dx37"H marked down to $248
> View attachment 264475


Hard to beat that price on the Husky's Mike . If I didn't have too many Kennedys , Vidmars and the 42" HF roll arounds laying around  I would 've jumped on them myself . Complete with the thin shoptop and zip strip also . Good deal !


----------



## TTD

_“What did you buy today”?_ Well, my first thought was, “Not much for $250”! lol

Nothing extravagant, just a few odds & ends that I either needed to replace or wanted to try.



Top row:
135* split point cobalt stub drills - 1/8”, 1/4”, 5/16”, 3/8”, 29/64”
120* HSS spotting drill (for all my other drills)
135* split point jobber drills - letter “I” & 29/64”
P1 “T”-shaped parting blade (5% cobalt)

Bottom row:
3/8” HSS 4-flute center cutting long length end mill
5/32” cobalt 4-flute center cutting double end end mill (usually prefer single end, but this was all they had)
5-40 adjustable split die
5-40 spiral flute tap
5-40 spiral point tap
10-32 spiral flute tap
10-32 spiral point tap
¼-28 spiral point tap
Micro100 solid carbide boring bar .180” min bore x 1.5” deep….can’t wait to try this puppy out!
EZE-Lap 400 grit “credit card” diamond stone
EZE-Lap 600 grit “credit card” diamond stone

Other than the 5-40 split die (TMX), boring bar (Micro100) & the EZE-Lap diamond stones,  the rest of it is just KBC “house brand” (i.e- Chinesium), but even still, it looks to be waayyyy better quality than BusyBee’s “stuff” I’ve been buying.

Me thinks it’s going to be “Bye-bye BusyBee, hello KBC” from now on!


----------



## f350ca

I recently bought some spiral point taps, you'll love them Todd. I can't believe how easy they feed in when power tapping. I've only power tapped with regular hand taps and they usually start slipping in the drill chuck, these don't.
Let us know how the diamond stones work out.

Greg


----------



## TTD

Thanks, Greg & will do on the diamond stones.

Should have got the 1200 grit stone while I was at it to finish off the set, but that’ll be a good excuse for “needing” my next order. Of course, would hate to pay shipping (a whole $8.95 flat rate) for such a small item, so would have to buy a whole bunch more stuff…you know, just to make the shipping worthwhile . That’s what I’m gonna tell her anyways! 

As for the spiral point taps, I just recently started using a couple of them, but I agree 100%…love them! A few weeks back I broke my cheapo, carbon steel Mastercraft (Canadian Tire) 8-32 tap in the middle of a project…%@&!. Wanted to finish that same day, so went to Cardon’s figuring they would have some hss taps (usually have some NOS on the rack), but everything was carbon steel. Reluctantly, I sauntered over to the “used” bin & found a few HSS spiral point taps that didn’t look bad, so bought them. Wasn’t really thrilled to buy used taps (was looking forward to trying the spiral point, though), but at least it would get me out of a jamb for now. Even being used, I was surprised how effortlessly it cut compared to a regular hand tap.

It’s been long overdue, but have slowly started replacing all my taps with HSS spiral point/flute (as needed).


----------



## Jake2465

Just got this in the mail ! Time to practice my 4 Jaw skills.


----------



## FOMOGO

If you haven't used one before, your really going to like it. Love mine. Mike


----------



## Jake2465

FOMOGO said:


> If you haven't used one before, your really going to like it. Love mine. Mike



The only experience I have with indicator holders is one that I paid about $20 for on eBay. It had the two long steel pins with hex nuts and clamps. This Noga loos like a really nice unit. I was surprised at how well it can lock up and not move. And, it can be set in just a few seconds.


----------



## Cadillac

Well I think I had a great day on a online auction nearby. I can’t believe the prices on stuff some opening bid 5bucks, others pennies on the dollar. I only screen shot two but I’ll wait to show when I pick up next week. Here’s a preview
	

		
			
		

		
	




	

		
			
		

		
	
. I couldn’t pass on the universal tool grinder. It has all the accessories for the grinder, manuals,and is still wrapped in that paper new. Can’t wait to get my hands on all the new stuff!!!!


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

$17.00 for the Momax  and $27 for the stones shipped to my door.



I’m pleased and will put them to good use. Cheers, Mike


----------



## MozamPete

A Titan Tool Supply Co. 20x microscope - need to convert it from 110v to 240v use, but looks like the big control box is really only a 12V supply to run a 12V halogen lamp for the light supply.



And what was advertised as a “Bed Level Indicator / Clock Gauge”. Not sure how it is intended to be used but includes Kennedy digital dial indicator with 0.001mm resolution.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited my local flea market there wasn't too much machinist tools but did managed to buy an old ball pin hummer with a fiberglass handle, also smaller lead filed plastic hummer in decent condition, i also bought this old electrical box it has an emergency shutdown switch and couple of lights, may come in handy in a future project.


----------



## The_Apprentice

Technically, I got this yesterday during our New York ice-storm. Couldn't wait...


----------



## Groundhog

Well, you had better hurry up and open it. Your cat isn't going to wait much longer for the box.


----------



## GoceKU

This morning i got a call from a friend to join him to visit an old tooling importer, even being little sick i decided to go and see what i could find. At the door i know i've wasted my time, mostly construction tooling and power tools, looked around and only bought this clamp style micrometer, it measured in millimeters too coarse for machining but should be fine for checking brake discs before and after machining, then i found this good quality M12 STD new threading die and the small rusty wrench he had a bigger one also but wanted too much for it, a bit of a waste of time but i never know what i can find.


----------



## Brain Coral

I went and picked up 5 used dental lights from an online auction today. Three out of the five work, so far. One is missing the voltage transformer, and I just have to wire in the other one to check if it works. I am planning on using them in the shop. One for the lathe, one for the mill, and maybe one for fine desk work.











The one Pelton and Crane light is nearly new. These cost me $50.00 CAD for the lot.

Brian


----------



## hman

Should be handy for drilling


----------



## Liljoebrshooter

I have thought about those style lights every time I go to the dentist.  Nice score.
Joe Hynes


----------



## The_Apprentice

Brain Coral said:


> -(offensive dental images censored)


Oh god I hate you. That 'Pelton' one on the left I will never forget to this living day. As a child I remember staring up at that damned thing while getting my teeth either drilled or pulled.

HATE those memories. If you were here, I'd be liable to punch you in the mouth, just to watch you have to get YOUR teeth worked on! lol


----------



## dfsmoto

Yesterday bought an old Norton hydraulic 6x18 surface grinder.  Seems to be in good shape for it's age.  Dated 1942 and has the Army property brass tag.  How cool is that?

Also got 2400 lbs of mostly cold rolled steel with a bunch of 4140 solid round!  It was a good Monday.  The retiring machinist I bought it from was a great character to visit with all day.  Made good deals and a friend.


----------



## Groundhog

Alright. A surface grinder to fine tune my Ducati valve shims, too much steel for one person and you're only 40 miles away!


----------



## Groundhog

By the way, it looks like a pretty nice score. Way to go!


----------



## Hukshawn

Brain Coral said:


> I went and picked up 5 used dental lights from an online auction today. Three out of the five work, so far. One is missing the voltage transformer, and I just have to wire in the other one to check if it works. I am planning on using them in the shop. One for the lathe, one for the mill, and maybe one for fine desk work.
> 
> View attachment 265372
> View attachment 265373
> View attachment 265374
> View attachment 265372
> View attachment 265373
> View attachment 265374
> View attachment 265375
> View attachment 265376
> 
> 
> The one Pelton and Crane light is nearly new. These cost me $50.00 CAD for the lot.
> 
> Brian


Right on. Definitely nice lights for the machines.


----------



## cvairwerks

Dumped a big can of change into the coinstar machine and got a certificate for $151 to spend at Amazon the other day. Managed to find someone that was selling a Starrett C251B Trammel set for $65...about $140 off list price. I scarfed it up and it came in a couple of days ago.  Should have a chance to use it soon. Still have about $75 left for more tools.


----------



## wcunning

I just "Bought it Now" on the 'Bay a 40 Taper spindle for a Bridgeport. It's 6 spline, 1" major diameter, which is substantially similar to my Rockford MV100 spindle... I really hope it'll fit, and that I can find spindle bearings to match it and my quill because that machine deserves a positive-drive-lug taper tool.


----------



## Cadillac

Well got a package today. Couldn't pass it up and I've heard it's a lot easier to have multiple wheels mounted. Idk haven't got the surface grinder 100% got to get the wiring buttoned up. Sopko hubs four of them 89 bucks delivered. eBay


----------



## killswitch505

I’ve been crazy busy haven’t done much as of late but picked up some lipstick for the pig this week


----------



## Ray C

I purchased this last week and it arrived today.   For $115, I'm very impressed.    Has glider tracks and is surprisingly well built.  I don't foresee it having any difficulties being fully stocked with typical shop tools.   

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Excel-5-Dr...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649






Ray


----------



## FOMOGO

Finally back home, and hauled back some things I bought off Craigs list, and my son picked up and stored for me this winter. Also ended up with 4 cases of the Tap Magic from the Amazon deal @ $12.50 for a case of 24 and free shipping. ACE hardware has the same 4oz cans for $11.99 each. These where all EP-EXTRA formula, which is supposed to be good for all metals. Sure would like to run into more deals like that.
  One of the Craigs list deals were a pair of Bridgeport angle plates and tail stocks for $50. The angle plates are 15"H x 11.75" wide, and about 40-50lbs each. One of the tail stocks appears to be factory, and the other shop made, using a large dead center and Morse adapter. All 4 pieces are keyed for the table T-slots. The guy that my son picked these up from said they where used in conjunction with a Bridgeport rotary table for vertical mounting. I'm thinking about using them for a cylinder head fixture. Will post some of the other stuff when I get a little more settled in. Cheers, Mike


----------



## Kiwi Canuck

I didn't get any Tap Magic (my order was cancelled today) but I did get this.

A made in Taiwan Vertex 8" rotary table on sale at KMS, it's getting harder to find Vertex in Canada and KMS is discontinuing carrying that brand.
The box was marked with their house brand (Magnum) but Vertex inside.

I tossed up between getting this one from KMS or one from KBC, it looks very similar to the South Bend sold by Grizzly.

https://www.kbctools.ca/products/WO...26 INDEXES/ROTARY @@26 SLIDE TABLES/4615.aspx




The one I got was the last one in stock in the lower mainland and I'd been looking at it for a few days and finally bought it.

It's very smooth and absolutely zero backlash that I can detect.


----------



## DoogieB

I have an 8" Vertex exactly like the one you bought.  If you dig through my old posts you'll find some information about dividing plates and other tooling that might be of interest.  I'm 99% sure that  the rotary table that Grizzly and KBC sell is made by Vertex as well.

Did you get a manual with your table?  I didn't get one with mine and I'm curious to see what's in it.  I've been using the Grizzly manual for information but those tables are slightly different.


----------



## Kiwi Canuck

DoogieB said:


> I have an 8" Vertex exactly like the one you bought.  If you dig through my old posts you'll find some information about dividing plates and other tooling that might be of interest.  I'm 99% sure that  the rotary table that Grizzly and KBC sell is made by Vertex as well.
> 
> Did you get a manual with your table?  I didn't get one with mine and I'm curious to see what's in it.  I've been using the Grizzly manual for information but those tables are slightly different.



DoogieB, thanks for the info on the dividing plates etc., I'll take a look at those posts of yours.
No manual with mine either.

David.


----------



## Janderso

I have been adding to my shop lately. By the way, I really enjoy reading through these posts. It gives me a chance to see what my fellow like thinking friends feel they need and want in their shop.
Oh well, I’m unable to attach pics today. I purchased a Miller Diversion 180 TIG Welder.


----------



## Janderso

I have been adding to my shop lately. By the way, I really enjoy reading through these posts. It gives me a chance to see what my fellow like thinking friends feel they need and want in their shop.
Oh well, I’m unable to attach pics today. I purchased a Miller Diversion 180 TIG Welder, a Brown and Sharpe 10” Rotary Table and a Grizzly G7947 drill press.


----------



## Janderso

I have been adding to my shop lately. By the way, I really enjoy reading through these posts. It gives me a chance to see what my fellow like thinking friends feel they need and want in their shop.
Oh well, I’m unable to attach pics today. I purchased a Miller Diversion 180 TIG Welder, a Brown and Sharpe 10” Rotary Table and a Grizzly G7947 drill press.


----------



## Silverbullet

I have been on a no buying spree , the case of tap magic was really an almost can't miss deal so I did buy one. But today I just ordered three rolls of flux wire for my little Clarke spool welder ,, made in Italy,, it's been a great asset in my shop . HF has there's in 2lb rolls , I've burned about ten rolls of it and it flows as well as Lincoln mig wire. So with shipping and tax plus a cheap ammo can I'm out for under $50.  Of course the better half will chop me manhood off but she don't use it like she used to . Her loss. It's an oh well you need it to make Mobil carts and racks . My hanger and gas welding is a pita. It works ands cheaper but spool gun does it easier.


----------



## GreatOldOne

I scored a nice Mitutoyo inside micrometer on eBay. My other half likes it as she’s claiming it’s my birthday present...


----------



## Janderso

You guys keep talking about, your other half. I must be blessed, I have a shop account with a debit/credit card. I try to keep $5,000 in there minimum. As long as I use that account it doesn’t affect the household budget.
I am looking at this Kearny and trucker Milwaukee milling machine on cl. Man it is a sweet mill. He wants $4,000 and I think it’s worth every penny. I am thinking about taking half of Monday off to go see it.
Shoots the hell out of my $5,000 minimum shop account.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited couple of tool markets, flea markets, did lots of walking looking, there was some machinist tools but way overpriced. I did managed to buy couple of consumptives, also bought a bunch of cheap bottom of the berrol power strips, other thing i found was three all different size and pressures pressure gauges, the smallest one has range -1 to 15 bar. Other was 0 to 160 bar with glass font, the third is the biggest, in fact it is massive 0 to 400 bar and is screaming shop press.


----------



## Cadillac

Nice day here for the flea market finally! Found a couple tools. 3” Criterion 5 bucks guy didn’t know what it was. Some grinding wheels .25 a piece. Nice little sandvik diamond file card never used but dirty for a buck. And some ferrite cores. Once again guy didn’t know what they were but had a huge assortment of them. .25pc I bought every size x2. I don’t know a lot about them just a little from some dc stuff I deal with. With installing vfds I know they can be used but I haven’t figured out how to spec them out for specific applications yet.


----------



## Nogoingback

Picked up a small Starrett centering head cheap on eBay.  Cleaned up the grunge, gave it a bath in
vinegar to remove a bit of surface rust and oiled it up.  It's nicer than the 6" blade I bought
it for.


----------



## Janderso

I have one of those with the 90 degree piece as well. They are handy to have around


----------



## Silverbullet

Bad again , eBay buy it now or offer, three tool holders Armstrong's, the swivel head for my planer ,,,wanting badly ,,, a threading and parting off . It's been listed forever for $75 + $7 ship. So I send an offer to my surprise he accepts $33. Not bad , look today I win drill bushings about thirty , $15.00,  now the wife's gonna really kill me. But I have two guys who want my reloading set up and supplies . One wants to come Sat another in a week after. By my calculations I'm in the good the value of the loader with everything is over $3k if I sell for $1,500 ill be ok . Shot for one bag is $40. and I have at least ten bags . Over twenty pounds of powder, plus primers and wads with the hydraulic mec . Oh well I guess the hunt is the fun and proving I could get the tool holder for my twenty dollar price tag or less.


----------



## Janderso

Jake2465 said:


> I have a SB 405 lathe that uses the old 1 1/2 x 10 TPI thread spindle nose. I just picked up this spindle from eBay that I will use to replace what I currently have with a Model-C spindle so I can have the common 1 1/2 x 8 TPI spindle nose.


Dang, that’s smaller than mine. My SB 13 single has the hard to find 1 7/8 8 tpi. Trying to find a chuck with a backing plate is tough. You?


----------



## Ken from ontario

I always wanted a complete set of good quality fractional drill bit set but the good ones as you know are so expensive.,I have hundreds of drill bits but couldn't keep my eyes off this Norseman (Viking) stubby set, last week I convinced myself that I need a set
29 pieces, Hi-Molybdenum tool steel/ Gold Oxide ,135-Degree split point.100% USA made:
 Used a couple and liked how  they performed.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001C92C04/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Jake2465

Ken from ontario said:


> I always wanted a complete set of good quality fractional drill bit set but the good ones as you know are so expensive.,I have hundreds of drill bits but couldn't keep my eyes off this Norseman (Viking) stubby set, last week I convinced myself that I need a set
> 29 pieces, Hi-Molybdenum tool steel/ Gold Oxide ,135-Degree split point.100% USA made:
> Used a couple and liked how  they performed.
> https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001C92C04/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> View attachment 266194



About three years ago, I bought a 115pc Hertel HSS screw machine drill bit set. It was an excellent investment. It's hard to beat the convenience of having just the right bit for whatever job on hand.


----------



## rwm

I bought this drill press:



It was not a steal but a fair price I believe. 
I did not inspect it. I hope it is as nice as it looks when I get it. I plan to make a project out of it. Possibly swap out the motor for variable speed. Maybe alter the table to accept hold downs. There is already one idiot mark in the table (just one though.) It has the oil table and the table lifter.
I will start a thread to get some ideas soon.
Robert


----------



## Jake2465

I bought some Irwin 3/8" ratchet head to tap adapters. I just found out these existed! I also bought a couple more spiral flute taps.


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

I picked this indicator up. It’s a lufkin v60 made by Compac. Didn’t pay much for it. Problem is the stylist is bent and the ball end is nonexistent. Can I get a replacement for it?


----------



## rwm

Jake2465 said:


> I bought some Irwin 3/8" ratchet head to tap adapters. I just found out these existed! I also bought a couple more spiral flute taps.



I did not know those existed. I will be using that when I build my manual tap machine!
Robert


----------



## Ken from ontario

rwm said:


> I did not know those existed. I will be using that when I build my manual tap machine!
> Robert


those or Lisle set are supposed to be good sets , you could also make them if are up to the task:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-70500-...&sr=8-1&keywords=Lisle+LI70500+Tap+Socket+Set


----------



## Jake2465

rwm said:


> I did not know those existed. I will be using that when I build my manual tap machine!
> Robert



I just tried them out today. They work like a charm! I set up the clutch on the drill and now I tap worry free.


----------



## Lordbeezer

Picked up 2 angle plates and 2 123 blocks


----------



## Lordbeezer

Picked up 2 angle plates and 2 123 blocks


----------



## Z2V

Jake2465 said:


> I bought some Irwin 3/8" ratchet head to tap adapters. I just found out these existed! I also bought a couple more spiral flute taps.



Nice find, they do work very well.


----------



## dfsmoto

Groundhog said:


> By the way, it looks like a pretty nice score. Way to go!


It was!  Been busy as hell here lately.  Just got it running tonight.  Hopefully be grinding tomorrow evening!


----------



## dfsmoto

Picked up a 2"x6"x36" piece of 7075 T7 aluminum and some rather large end mills.  Also picked up an r8 1" end mill holder.  All 5 end mills in very good condition and 55 lbs of 7075 for $134.  I love the yard!
Btw the 7075 is for motorcycle tripleclamps.


----------



## roadie33

The Yard in Wichita is a great place to go to pick up tooling and Aluminum. I go there a couple of times a year.


----------



## GoceKU

Slowly over the past month i've been buying hydraulic parts and have ask around for a big hydraulic cylinder wanting to build a big shop press, late last night i got a call from a scrapyard owner."I good cylinder just come in, come and get it", knowing that this guy doesn't keep anything for more than a day, i went straight away, the cylinder is a stabilizer for a crane of some kind, i wanted a bit thicker cylinder so i won't have to run higher pressures but for that price is perfect, not a bad deal at 12$.


----------



## Groundhog

I've always got to hit the Yard whenever I'm in Wichita. If for nothing else than just to stock up on some aluminum drop pieces and spend an hour going through the aisles of surplus/used tools.


----------



## dfsmoto

Groundhog said:


> I've always got to hit the Yard whenever I'm in Wichita. If for nothing else than just to stock up on some aluminum drop pieces and spend an hour going through the aisles of surplus/used tools.


They have 2 big mill vices in there now if anyone needs one.  They are asking $250 a piece.  Both are in great shape.


----------



## roadie33

I picked up one of the pieces of Leather they use to make the seats. It was the size of a full hide. Wife made me a Welding apron out of it. It goes from my neck to tops of my boots. Had enough left over to make one half size.


----------



## dfsmoto

roadie33 said:


> I picked up one of the pieces of Leather they use to make the seats. It was the size of a full hide. Wife made me a Welding apron out of it. It goes from my neck to tops of my boots. Had enough left over to make one half size.


Maybe us Kansans should start a thread "what we bought at the yard today"!


----------



## roadie33

I found that if you buy large quantities of Aluminum, you can get a better price on it. Bought enough 2 years ago to last me for quite a while.
Bought a mix of Flat, round, angle, channel, just about everything they sell. 
For those that are wondering.
http://www.theyardwichita.com/


----------



## Jake2465

After realizing that I did not have any way to accurately mesaure past 6", I picked up this thing.


----------



## ch2co

How long is that thing?  Now I think  that you need something in-between or maybe 2 in-between 
I have an 18" Mitutoyo that doesn't get a lot of use because its just too long. 
I guess its all about what you're measuring.
Congrats!


----------



## Jake2465

ch2co said:


> How long is that thing?  Now I think  that you need something in-between or maybe 2 in-between
> I have an 18" Mitutoyo that doesn't get a lot of use because its just too long.
> I guess its all about what you're measuring.
> Congrats!



Your probably right . I sometimes get aluminum stock on my mill that may get up to 14" in length, but not very often. I was originally going to get a 18" caliper, but I did not want to put myself in the position where I had to measure something that was long and I just did not have the length. So, I got a 24" caliper. One pet project that I have is a amateur built helicopter and I could see measurements for flight controls or things like that which would benefit from the length. 

Yes I did pick it up and say "ya know, 24" is a little longer than I remember it ".


----------



## f350ca

I have a 24 inch dial calliper, it gets used fairly often. On the digital, how do you switch from inside to outside jaws? On my dial one there are two scales on the beam, reading the wrong one caught me a couple of times. 

Greg


----------



## Jake2465

f350ca said:


> I have a 24 inch dial calliper, it gets used fairly often. On the digital, how do you switch from inside to outside jaws? On my dial one there are two scales on the beam, reading the wrong one caught me a couple of times.
> 
> Greg


I don't think this one has a way to offset the measurement from inside to outside. It does have a laser etched spot that says 0.8" on the jaws. So I guess they figure I can just add .800 to whatever my internal measurements are.


----------



## GreatOldOne

I’ve been on a bit of eBay frenzy. First off, another inside mike. I’d forgotten I’d bid on this and was surprised when I won it. It had no box, so I bought a small plastic box with cubed foam to put it in


Next is a combimike - got to wait for it to arrive from the sunny shores of Florida though.


Finally, a 12inch Moore and Wright engineers level. This is in Blighty, so I should have it soon (maybe tomorrow, as it’s been sent priority / 1st class mail.



I also bought another couple of cases for a digital mike and my depth mike which (like most of my tools) are second hand, and was missing the boxes. These things are great, and not too expensive on Amazon.


----------



## Jake2465

Today I bought a piece of 7075-T6 that measures 9.5" x 25" x 1.25".


----------



## Jake2465

And lastly, a Kurt D40 with a nice work stop. I put my .0001 indicator on there and then I clamped the part down, I could not see the needle move . I have used a BP 6" since I got into the hobby machining about three years ago, so this is a real treat for me .


----------



## Cadillac

Got the final stuff for the surface grinder. I figured for the fifty bucks I saved so much from the rest of the rebuild I mind as well put a new rack and gear on the table to make as smooth as possible. 
 My leadscrew bellows were dry rotted so I needed new ones. I took a chance and bought these two dollar bellows versus the forty dollars a pc. Same dimensions just cheaper and took two weeks to get here.


----------



## GoceKU

I got one more phone call from the same scrapyard owner that i bought the hydraulic cylinder, he had one more identical cylinder so i bought it also it was 2kg lighter, the first one had couple of fitings and pipes so the new cilinder was only 10 euros. Having a spare is never a bad thing, i'll start a project thread in the shop press section.


----------



## DAT510

Cadillac said:


> Got the final stuff for the surface grinder. I figured for the fifty bucks I saved so much from the rest of the rebuild I mind as well put a new rack and gear on the table to make as smooth as possible.
> My leadscrew bellows were dry rotted so I needed new ones. I took a chance and bought these two dollar bellows versus the forty dollars a pc. Same dimensions just cheaper and took two weeks to get here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 266740


Can I ask where you sourced your bellows?  I'll need some for my SG as it comes back together.

Thanks


----------



## Cadillac

DAT510 said:


> Can I ask where you sourced your bellows?  I'll need some for my SG as it comes back together.
> 
> Thanks


Of course! I had read of a fella using inner tubes from a bicycle. That made me think of  the bellows they put on the front shocks on mountain bikes. These were the closest to my mounting diameter which is 1.125 x8” long. Here’s a pic of seller and part info for eBay


----------



## Cooter Brown

Used Starrett Punches










6" OD, I checked this on my surface plate and its accurate to around -.0002 except in one little spot with scratch that will stone right out....


----------



## Aukai

My HyperTherm 30 was literally not cutting it for thicker metal. Gaspro/Airgas had their welding show, and I stepped up to a Hypertherm PowerMax 45 XP. I just got it home, put together, and made a cut. This was with slippers, and shorts, I stood way back, so the cut is not that great, but I like the machine.


----------



## Z2V

All I got was credit card size diamond stones


----------



## Buffalo21

I bought a number of the #250-101XL, oversized AXA QCTP blocks, designed to hold up to 5/8” shanked tools, from Quality Machine Tools. I was impressed with QMT’s speed in filling the order, about 3 days from order to delivery, its not QMT fault as they sell a finished product, but the block is nothing special, its the same block block, I could buy from CDCO for $5 less, just opened up .050” more than the standard #250-101 block. I was expecting the block, with the XL nomenclature, to be taller, thicker or wider, but its identical to the standard block. I’ve done many in the past (over 250 blocks), it takes about 5 minutes to open the block up to take a 5/8” (16 mm) tool and only a few minutes more to open them up to hold a 3/4” (19 mm) shanked tool. They also had the same crappy set screws. It’s not a terrible piece, to me, just not worth the extra cost.


----------



## Buffalo21

Today, I ordered the X, Y and Z power feeds for my Rockwell 21-100 milling machine, I bought the standard Bridgeport/clone units, so I assume the adaption to the Rockwell, could be to be extensive adventure.


----------



## Cooter Brown

I can't believe how long it has taken me to get a 3d printer. I have a Tevo Tornado on the way...... Finally!


----------



## British Steel

Bought last week and arrived on Thursday, been wanting one for years/decades...




A Japanese Daihen OTC AVP300 Accutig inverter, I've spotted slightly older ones selling for £ouch in the far east, this was less than my last meal out with the kids!*

It's 3-phase and "untested, spares or repair" from a reputable welder dealership and was taken as part-exchange on new equipment for a factory (one of about a dozen) - if it needs repair I'm a pretty competent electronics tech...

My phase converter will run it up to about 240 -250 A (if I had proper 3-phase it's capable of a bit over 300 A on AC and DC), which means a water-cooled torch is a good idea (a WP18 and long cables/hoses came from EvilBay too), I'm part-way though building a torch cooler, I'll post as a project eventually.

Some of the Bits from the World's Best Skip to start on the cooler:



Radiator from a water-cooler for Science, pair of 220V fans.

And a case from the same low-cost source, narrowed by 6" to match the width of the welder with most of the parts for a guesstimate-fit, the stainless pan holds 7 quarts and was thrown guess-where when the canteen was refurbished 




I need some parts still, so EvilBay will be getting / has had orders for things like QDs for the hoses, meters for the front panel, a warning light or two? Half way through putting together a board to monitor flow rate, return water temperature, and set off a screaming buzzer if it goes wrong...

Still need to get a bottle and regulator, but there's a reasonable deal on rental and refills from a place a few miles away, I shopped around and if I used slightly more than a 20L x 200Bar bottle per year it's cheaper (in the UK) to rent and get cheaper refills than to go rent-free with the hefty deposit and refills at twice the price. How does it work elsewhere, I know that some on mainland Europe have trouble and expense obtaining welding gases?

Dave H. (the other one)

* Damn, that boy must have hollow legs...


----------



## GoceKU

British Steel said:


> How does it work elsewhere, I know that some on mainland Europe have trouble and expense obtaining welding gases?



Here in Macedonia, we have two ways, you can buy a bottle around 100 euros and just pay for the gas which is being sold by Kg and the bottles are exchanged, or you can rent a bottle just pay for the gas but you must return the bottle in 12 months.


----------



## rwm

The Eagle has landed.




and it's a big eagle.

Robert


----------



## Lordbeezer

Visited with a friend I went through police academy with.told him I was making a knife.he asked if I wanted a anvil..YES..its in good shape..Cresent brand..weight is 10 stones.heaviest 140 pounds I ever picked up..gonna clean it up.mount and use it..


----------



## ch2co

Everybody needs something to hammer on. Congrats! Looks like a winner. I’ve always wanted one, but never found one around here for a decent price.


----------



## Lordbeezer

I've been looking for awhile.sellers want more than I can pay..then a friend gives me one..he had two..I felt kinda guilty taking it so I gave him a Sightron mil dot scope I had in truck..


----------



## Janderso

I go buy the local metal supply here in Oroville CA. A couple weeks ago I spotted a 3 foot piece of I Beam. It weighs at least 100 lbs. because I paid over $60 for it. Scrap goes for $.60 a pound. An anvil would be better but...what the heck.


----------



## Lordbeezer

Your steel I beam will make a good anvil.probably better than most worn,rounded off over priced anvils you'll run across.


----------



## Kiwi Canuck

I've lived with a standard 29 piece fractional drill set for years and have wanted a good set of lettered and numbered drill bits for a while now.

I found this Norseman set at KMS Tools and got a few bucks off but still pretty spendy, but man do they cut well.






Same set as this, https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Norseman-93840-SP-115-Premium/dp/B001EHI17C

I was drilling into the mill table to mount the DRO read head (5mm) and it was like a hot knife through butter.

David.


----------



## ddickey

They're nice. I have Norseman also.
A little cheaper here plus no tax,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Norseman-9...et-115-Piece-/332587869017?afsrc=1&rmvSB=true


----------



## ACHiPo

Kiwi Canuck said:


> I've lived with a standard 29 piece fractional drill set for years and have wanted a good set of lettered and numbered drill bits for a while now.
> 
> I found this Norseman set at KMS Tools and got a few bucks off but still pretty spendy, but man do they cut well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same set as this, https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Norseman-93840-SP-115-Premium/dp/B001EHI17C
> 
> I was drilling into the mill table to mount the DRO read head (5mm) and it was like a hot knife through butter.
> 
> David.


Very nice, and a pretty good deal.  I paid north of that for a very lightly used set of fractional, number, and letter screw length cobalt Cleveland drills.  They are very nice to use!


----------



## FLguy

6x12 Surface grinder in great condition. Used by Tool and die maker. Great price for me as he just didn't need it any longer.


----------



## GreatOldOne

I just won this on eBay:




Kurt D688. I pick it up this afternoon. 

Can anyone help me out ordering a rebuild kit and some Kurt stickers? The Kurt website only ships to the US & Canada, and there’s no official distributor here in the UK.


----------



## vocatexas

I've been looking for a Starrett No. 104 speed indicator for over a year. All of them I found were either in fairly poor condition and missing attachments or were priced stupid high. Earlier this week over at Garage Journal one of the guys mentioned he had one that he'd had for years and never used. I got it in the mail yesterday and she's a real beauty. It came in it's original box, two tips in excellent condition, and even still has the instructions. It looks to have hardly been used. Plus, he priced it so low I felt guilty about it and added a few dollars onto the payment.

*Sorry, no pics. My phone doesn't do pics and I haven't found an alternative to Photoripoff...


----------



## DHarris

Great Old One - do you know what parts you need (from the Kurt D688 repair parts list on their web site)?  If so, can you contact them for any larger parts (to find weight) then you could have them shipped here and I could forward them to you.  We just need to know total shipping weight so you know how much shipping should cost.  (Also - do you have to pay import / GST - or equivalent when you receive the package or ahead of time when it is shipped?).  Let me know - would be happy to help out


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

MT3 reamer


----------



## GreatOldOne

Spot the difference:


----------



## hman

I like the swarf shield you've added to your smaller vise!


----------



## GreatOldOne

hman said:


> I like the swarf shield you've added to your smaller vise!


Thanks. It’s just some rubber matting held in with a couple of appropriately sized bolts and washers. Works a treat though.


----------



## GreatOldOne

DHarris said:


> Great Old One - do you know what parts you need (from the Kurt D688 repair parts list on their web site)?  If so, can you contact them for any larger parts (to find weight) then you could have them shipped here and I could forward them to you.  We just need to know total shipping weight so you know how much shipping should cost.  (Also - do you have to pay import / GST - or equivalent when you receive the package or ahead of time when it is shipped?).  Let me know - would be happy to help out



Hi Dave,

Thanks for the offer of help. I’ve private messaged you with the details, to stop cluttering up the thread. 

Jason.


----------



## Janderso

hman said:


> I like the swarf shield you've added to your smaller vise!



Me too. What, where do you get that stuff?
I am looking for an old tractor intertube but now maybe....


----------



## GreatOldOne

It was just some ribbed rubber matting that came with my big tool chest (the one my lathe sits on). It’s not too thick, and easy to cut with some scissors. I used some more of it as chip mats either side of the small vise as well.

It’s very like some of the rubber matting I got to do the floors in my kit car, so I reckon you’ll be able to get it at a car parts store or coach trimming outfit.

Or you could always do a Doubleboost and get an old rubberised bar beer mat, and use that. I’m sure if you sweet talk the local barmaid she’d give you one. May be even an old mat as well.


----------



## COMachinist

Picked up a replacement metal chopsaw blade went with the Freud cermet II Steel Demon 14”. Ouch, 100 dolar. Hope it last longer than the factory blade. It is great to use the cold cut saw  and it is light years faster than the band saw. Darn it hurts to replace that big cutter.
CH


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Picked up an old Union 4 jaw for very small money. 



Before and after clean up. I’m quite pleased. There is very little wear on the jaws and screws. It was just abused and kicked around in its previous life.


----------



## Redmech

rwm said:


> The Eagle has landed.
> 
> View attachment 266907
> 
> 
> and it's a big eagle.
> 
> Robert


Is that new or just look new?


----------



## Redmech

Here’s a little screen shot of my eBay purchases lately. I have had up to 12” micrometers for a while. But all of a sudden at work I needed to measure a part between 13-14”. So I decided to buy a nice used 12-16” micrometer. This Tumico 12-16 was in great shape, complete, and way cheaper than a bunch others. The 16-20 and 20-24 are Mitutoyo that I purchased from the United Kingdom, guess English micrometers are not in high demand in England. Standards, head, and all the critical pieces are still in the factory plastic. After the conversion the two Mitutoyo Micrometers cost me 338$ shipped to me for both of them. Only wear they have is the outside of the box from setting on a shelf.


----------



## rwm

I don't know how old this is. I would guestimate from the 90's? Is there a lookup table for Clausing serial numbers?
Robert


----------



## Nogoingback

COMachinist said:


> Picked up a replacement metal chopsaw blade went with the Freud cermet II Steel Demon 14”. Ouch, 100 dolar. Hope it last longer than the factory blade. It is great to use the cold cut saw  and it is light years faster than the band saw. Darn it hurts to replace that big cutter.
> CH




They don't last long, do they.  Mine  (Makita)  has been re-sharpened 3-4 times so far, and I don't use it that much.  But they cut nicely.


----------



## GoceKU

Last couple of weeks i've been putting more than 70 hours at work so i sleep thru sunday mornings, but this morning i woke up early and visited 3 flea markets, 2 tool markets and one scrapyard. There was lots of tools, some good some bad, the biggest sore was this bench mounted band saw BS-12R, looks like has had very little use, because the previous owner did not know how to assemble it and adjust it, when i seen the blade guides are backed out and everything is finger tight i had little interest because looked like the body is plastic but a ask price anyway and it was way low. This made me take close look and released the body is aluminium, table is also big and aluminium the front cover is thick steel and the motor is 1hp so offer the seller 12$ and i bought it. Other things i bought was a small threading die handle and M6 die, a set of zip tie pliers, an old Fein cordless drill with charger and other communities. from the scrapyard bought one webasto car heater, a wheel hub and two thick heavy pieces of steel. They may come in handy in my hydraulic shop press build.


----------



## farmerken82

I bought a lathe. First lathe I've bought! It's a LeBlond 19" swing. Looks to be in decent shape despite being outside. I need recommendations on a quick change toolpost! Going back and forth between a chinese multifix ($$) and a wedge style qctp ($). 
	

		
			
		

		
	




Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## hman

Looks like a pretty stout piece of equipment!  What's that tallish item behind it on the right????

PS - Haven't used a multifix, though I've heard they're pretty good.  I use wedge style QCTPs on both my lathes, and they've served me well.  I'd lean toward one of these.  Lots of suppliers available, so the prices for tool holders are pretty reasonable.  Looking at various posts here over the years, it looks like nearly all members use wedge or piston style QCTPs as well.


----------



## The_Apprentice




----------



## GreatOldOne

My mitutoyo combimike finally arrived all the way from shores of sunny Florida to landlocked Northamptonshire. 




Needs calibration, but it’s in very good condition. And I love the sound it makes - tikka tikka tikka.


----------



## robmack

Hi,  I picked up a vintage Starrett 665 Dial Test Indicator set with a 25-B dial indicator.  The set was unused as many of the pieces were still in their waxed paper shipping protection.  Two pieces seem to be missing and I'm wondering if someone can tell me what they might be.  I've attached a photo of the box insides.  There are two empty holes -- one located in the upper left corner and one just to the right of the dial indicator.  Very much appreciate the information if someone knows.  Would these parts still be available?


----------



## EmilioG

MAKEITOUTOFWOOD said:


> I picked this indicator up. It’s a lufkin v60 made by Compac. Didn’t pay much for it. Problem is the stylist is bent and the ball end is nonexistent. Can I get a replacement for it?
> View attachment 266281


Measure the length and check if the other Compac stylus tips are the same.  www.longislandindicator.com or email Rene Meyer at LIIS.


----------



## The_Apprentice

I've got 135 deg drill-bits, and 60 deg, but not many 118 degs. So finally picked up some at HF for my machining jobs.

And then I picked up some other things, especially to help around this old house...


----------



## Riorider

Bought this thing today! Now what to do with it when I get it home!
*Clausing Kondia CNC Mill with Dynapath Control*


----------



## BGHansen

Month or so of pick ups off eBay and internet orders.  Didn't picture it, but also bought a couple of gallons of Trim-sol coolant for the mill's mister.

Bruce

More ball end Allen wrenches in English and Metric



Starrett metric screw pitch gauge



Roper Whitney model XX hand punch



Punches/dies for gaskets and washers.  This set comes with pins that can
load onto the punches for making washers.



Bag of Scotch-brite pads



Nice set of American made HSS drill bits:  1/16" - 1/2" by 1/64", 1-60, A-Z



Set of 1/32" thick parallels from Shars



Freshly sharpened solid carbide drills off eBay



6" x 12" steel shim stock from 0.001" - 0.015"



Honing sticks



Yet more slitting saws



Set of Metric HSS drill bits



Nice box of Scotch-brite buffing wheels


----------



## BGHansen

Bought another SDA laser center/edge finder.  They sell three basic models that project either a dot, a cross hair or concentric circles with a center dot.  They are advertised as a replacement for mechanical and electronic edge finders.  I picked up the cross hair model last fall and recently took the plunge on the concentric circle model.

In summary, do you need to get one or both?  Quick answer is NO.  "Your results may vary", but they won't be my "go to" edge finders.  Use will be determined by the accuracy needed on the project.  That being said, I will use them, but not as often as I should to justify the cost.

I'm able to hit about 0.004" repeatably finding center with the cross hair model.  Set a Dykem'd center punched piece on the mill and found center.  Zero'd the DRO, moved off the part and repeated 6 times.  It does work well for quickly finding a scribed point on a part.  Quicker than a wiggler or my Blake co-ax with the spring loaded center finder.  If the project requires spot-on locating, I'll go with the Blake.  Accuracy not as important, I'll pull out the laser cross hair.

On to the concentric circle model.  I checked my repeatability on finding a pricked hole by finding what I thought was the center and zero'd the DRO.  Then moved off the part and repeated finding center.  Was able to hit within 0.003" of center each time on 6 trials.  So not too bad, and it does go quicker than a wiggler or using the Blake.  Down side is turning off the shop lights so the laser dot can be dialed down to as small as possible to get an accurate position.  Naturally, the smaller the dot, the less light you see, but it gives a better shot of getting spot-on to the pricked hole.

It's recommended to check the laser's centering with each use to a supplied target cross hair.  The lasers have 4 set screws around the base for centering the dot/circles much like a 4-jaw chuck.  I centered up the laser by turning the spindle 90 degrees and adjusted the set screws so the edge of the largest circle was on the same point.  Could do the same thing with the center dot, but figured the most accurate way of centering would be to adjust the unit at the furthest point from center.

I tested the concentric rings by bolting a dividing head plate to the mill table and ran the table up/down until one of the projected circles was right at the outside of the disk.  Zero'd out the table and mounted a DTI holder on the spindle and swept the outside of the disk.  Ended up repeatably hitting about 0.007" from center.  Again, not too bad depending on the accuracy needed.  It is quicker than using a DTI or the Blake.

OK, not a recommended process but something I do to avoid centering the laser with each use.  I run the mill at low speed with laser on and eyeball the dot/circle to centered on the pricked hole.  I get within 0.005" doing this.  On the plus side, running the spindle takes out spindle run-out for centering.  On the down side, it effectively makes the laser dot larger so I'm basically eyeballing to center an 0.010" dot on a pricked hole instead of an 0.005" dot on a pricked hole.  Again, depends on the accuracy you need.

Bruce


Picked up a concentric circle laser edge finder.  The cross-hair and circle units
have the same base, but use different lens. 






Circles projected onto a dividing head disk.  Circle sizes are varied by
moving the table and/or spindle up/down.  The polarizing filter can be adjusted
to shrink the size of the circles, but there's less light to see so off go the shop
lights.



Did a check with a TDI after finding center with the laser circles.  Was able to hit
0.007" or better with the laser.


----------



## hman

Question, Bruce -

Did you try rotating the spindle ½ turn and repeat the tests, to check for runout?  Having read a bunch of your posts, I'm confident that your spindle is OK ... but what about the laser unit?  

I've read (and seen on a Youtube video - either Joe PI or Don Bailey) that reasonable amounts of runout will NOT affect the accuracy of the traditional edge finder.


----------



## Cooter Brown

I got bought a whole drawer full of Starrett pin punches and center punches..










 






A few small cheap squares




A bunch of shim stock                      
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










And a 2 1/4" - 8 Tap


----------



## BGHansen

hman said:


> Question, Bruce -
> 
> Did you try rotating the spindle ½ turn and repeat the tests, to check for runout?  Having read a bunch of your posts, I'm confident that your spindle is OK ... but what about the laser unit?
> 
> I've read (and seen on a Youtube video - either Joe PI or Don Bailey) that reasonable amounts of runout will NOT affect the accuracy of the traditional edge finder.


Hi John,

I checked the 3/8" collet with a dowel pin before dropping in the laser (0.0004" run out). I will say that they are fast. The circles are pretty thick (about 0.015"), so wouldn't rely on them for anything that needs to be dead on. I thought about using it for setting up a rotary table, but will stick with the tapered pin I currently use.

Best regards, Bruce


----------



## BGHansen

hman said:


> Question, Bruce -
> 
> Did you try rotating the spindle ½ turn and repeat the tests, to check for runout?  Having read a bunch of your posts, I'm confident that your spindle is OK ... but what about the laser unit?
> 
> I've read (and seen on a Youtube video - either Joe PI or Don Bailey) that reasonable amounts of runout will NOT affect the accuracy of the traditional edge finder.


Hi John,

I checked the 3/8" collet with a dowel pin before dropping in the laser (0.0004" run out). I will say that they are fast. The circles are pretty thick (about 0.015"), so wouldn't rely on them for anything that needs to be dead on. I thought about using it for setting up a rotary table, but will stick with the tapered pin I currently use.

Best regards, Bruce


----------



## TerryH

Sheesh...I haven't stopped buying stuff since I found this place. lol...


----------



## Cooter Brown

I Just bought a huge lot of brass ID laps...


----------



## Jake2465

A two position valve for my spindle brake.


----------



## 682bear

I acquired these from a co-worker... both are Criterion...




And I found this on the clearance rack at my local Lowes...




Its a 1/2 inch hammer drill... $82 plus tax. The only reason that I could find for it to be on the clearance rack is that someone had scribbled all over the box with black marker.

-Bear


----------



## Aukai

Cool, what are they?


----------



## 682bear

Aukai said:


> Cool, what are they?



Boring heads with R8 shanks... used for boring holes on a milling machine.

-Bear


----------



## Aukai

Thank you


----------



## Janderso

Man, I thought I was a tool nut. You win Bruce. I can’t keep up.


----------



## roadie33

I was ordering some replacement gears for the mill and saw Grizzly has a sale on 6" Digital Calipers. Bald Eagle brand. Never heard of them, but I'll give them a try.
2 for $24.99
So I added a pair online Monday, delivered today. Look to be pretty decent. Time will tell.


----------



## GreatOldOne

New editions to my bookshelf, to join my copy of Zeus and my Mechanical and Metal Trades Handbook:








I love the wartime references. 

And something a bit more modern as a quick ref, to keep my MMT handbook clean when my hands are mucky:


----------



## Charles Spencer

roadie33 said:


> I was ordering some replacement gears for the mill and saw Grizzly has a sale on 6" Digital Calipers. Bald Eagle brand. Never heard of them, but I'll give them a try.
> 2 for $24.99
> So I added a pair online Monday, delivered today. Look to be pretty decent. Time will tell.



I got some calipers from Harbor Freight on sale.  Once I put a little work into them they cleaned up nicely and functioned better.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...in-your-shop-today.14637/page-148#post-330786


----------



## BGHansen

Janderso said:


> Man, I thought I was a tool nut. You win Bruce. I can’t keep up.


Yes, I have it bad . . .  But I bet there are other guys who buy a lot more, just don't want to advertise it to their better half.

Bruce


----------



## GreatOldOne

BGHansen said:


> But I bet there are other guys who buy a lot more, just don't want to advertise it to their better half.



Wise. Always best to get the packaging disposed of and the new aquisition out into the workshop before SHMBO arrives home. And if that doesn’t happen, always, ALWAYS say it was half the price it actually was. Therein lies a happy marriage.


----------



## Aukai

I got my Yuasa dividing plates today from Industry recycles, no instructions in the box, I'll have to look them up I suppose. Kelly from IR was very helpful with a shipping refund. I was charged FedEx prices, and it came USPS, I emailed yesterday, the refund was in today.


----------



## Ray C

Picked-up this Husky bottom box today at Home Depot.   It's a Kennedy knock-off and has a similar brown look and stipple textured finish.  It's decent quality and will serve the intended purpose.   I was going to get the 26x40 Harbor Freight unit because I had a coupon but the total was still going to be around $250.   Home Depot was selling this for $179.  I lucked-out, it was the demo model and had a crinkled corner on the top left side.  They offered a $30 discount and I said "Sold".  For about $165 it went out the door.   It took all of 5 minutes to bang the dent out with a block of wood and mallet.  




Ray


----------



## Ianagos

GreatOldOne said:


> BGHansen said:
> 
> 
> 
> But I bet there are other guys who buy a lot more, just don't want to advertise it to their better half.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wise. Always best to get the packaging disposed of and the new aquisition out into the workshop before SHMBO arrives home. And if that doesn’t happen, always, ALWAYS say it was half the price it actually was. Therein lies a happy marriage.
Click to expand...


Mine just nods her head at me... she encouraged me to buy my fadal. She knows that it’s my hobby and being in the military I don’t do much so I atleast need to have something to put my mind into. She even bought me an ar15 kit.


----------



## DHarris

you guys are killing me,  I haven't bought any tooling in soooooo long I'm starting to fear being banned from this forum!!!


----------



## Martin W

Picked up some various rounds ,hex, and square bars for scrap price. As well as a few lengths of Acme all thread with various diameter and pitches
Cheers
Martin


----------



## Cooter Brown

I just picked up a KO Lee for $300


----------



## Z2V

Ray C said:


> Picked-up this Husky bottom box today at Home Depot.   It's a Kennedy knock-off and has a similar brown look and stipple textured finish.  It's decent quality and will serve the intended purpose.   I was going to get the 26x40 Harbor Freight unit because I had a coupon but the total was still going to be around $250.   Home Depot was selling this for $179.  I lucked-out, it was the demo model and had a crinkled corner on the top left side.  They offered a $30 discount and I said "Sold".  For about $165 it went out the door.   It took all of 5 minutes to bang the dent out with a block of wood and mallet.
> 
> View attachment 268135
> 
> 
> Ray


Ray, I got the same deal on the same box back around Christmas last year. Mine had a dent on the left rear bottom corner. Great box for the price.


----------



## BGHansen

Few more eBay and internet shopping pick ups.

Bruce

Brazed on carbide round tool bits.  Was hoping for a better finish, probably operator error





Nice set of Nicholson and Grobet die filer files



Couple of ratcheting tap wrenches from Shars



Happy with this Carboloy 2" facing mill and inserts



Albrecht 1/32" - 1/2" chuck on an R-8 arbor



Metric drill gauge


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited the local flea market, this time usually there is some old tooling brought from germany. Because of the weather there wasn't too many vendors but i did managed to buy couple bigger drill bits, i'm sure many of you won't bother with drill bits this old, short, rusty, but here price of any taper end drill bit is significantly higher and bigger than 20mm new is close to the average monthly paycheck, i chose the sizes i'm often using and all except one are freshly sharpened. I also bought an tapered reamer because it has an extended MT2 to MT3 reducer i'll need to do some cleaning and sharpening on them. All in all not bad especially for the price i paid.


----------



## Janderso

BGHansen said:


> Few more eBay and internet shopping pick ups.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> Brazed on carbide round tool bits.  Was hoping for a better finish, probably operator error
> View attachment 268328
> 
> View attachment 268329
> 
> 
> Nice set of Nicholson and Grobet die filer files
> View attachment 268330
> 
> 
> Couple of ratcheting tap wrenches from Shars
> View attachment 268331
> 
> 
> Happy with this Carboloy 2" facing mill and inserts
> View attachment 268332
> 
> 
> Albrecht 1/32" - 1/2" chuck on an R-8 arbor
> View attachment 268333
> 
> 
> Metric drill gauge
> View attachment 268334



Bruce,
I have noticed you’re Ebay scores are frequent and filled with wonder.
You may have a bit of an addiction, not that there is anything wrong with that.
I’m just jealous!


----------



## Charles Spencer

GoceKU said:


> i'm sure many of you won't bother with drill bits this old, short, rusty...



I'm sure many of us would bother.  They aren't exactly cheap here either.


----------



## BGHansen

Janderso said:


> Bruce,
> I have noticed you’re Ebay scores are frequent and filled with wonder.
> You may have a bit of an addiction, not that there is anything wrong with that.
> I’m just jealous!


Yeah, have it bad, but there is a purpose.  I had a buddy (Frosty Wyrick) with a very large toy train and Erector set collection.  He built a 1:85 scale model of the Mackinaw Bridge from Erector set parts that was 104 ft. long (photos below).  He passed away from colon cancer a few years ago.  His estate sale was attended by 5 people, so his treasured toy collection went for next to nothing. . .  My wife and I attended a woodworking shop auction about the same time.  There were over 400 at this sale in a very rural area.  We left because of the competition.  

Point being, I had a very large Erector set collection (over 350 restored sets) that I didn't want to stick my wife with if something happened to me.  I had everything cataloged with recommended wholesale prices, but there was just soooo much stuff.  Problem with a collection of this type is you really shouldn't do anything with it, just leave it on a shelf and look at it.  Plus the market is pretty soft now-a-days as at 58-years old, I'm one of the youngest members of the collecting club.

I've sold off quite a bit of the collection (still have over 100 sets) and have flipped it into stuff I can actually do something with.  Sold a 1931 No. 8 1/2 Erector Hudson set and a 1929 No. 9 Mechanical Wonders set last summer and bought a Bridgeport mill.  Don't miss the sets, but love the Bridgeport!  I made a lot of friends over the years of attending shows and still go, but primarily I now sell reproduction parts.  Blends the two hobbies together, plus funds my shop for about anything I want.

My wife intends to learn how to run everything, plus our son loves puttering in the shop.  He already has dibs on the equipment and is learning how to use everything.  I figure when I'm eventually gone, my benefactors will have an easier time unloading tools which seem to always have a market as opposed to a bunch of old toys with a pretty soft market.  Plus, it's just dang fun to spend money on this stuff!

Bruce


----------



## Chip Hacket

This is an ebay find.  I just couldn't help it.  I've been working so hard lately I convinced myself  I deserved it.  Of course I don't, but I do enjoy it.  It is circa early 1950s as evidenced by the pamphlet.  This belonged to Ward Johnson and he took very good care of it.  My intention is to take care of it as well during my stewardship, so the next fella down the line can enjoy it also.

--Chip


----------



## ddickey

GoceKU said:


> Today i visited the local flea market, this time usually there is some old tooling brought from germany. Because of the weather there wasn't too many vendors but i did managed to buy couple bigger drill bits, i'm sure many of you won't bother with drill bits this old, short, rusty, but here price of any taper end drill bit is significantly higher and bigger than 20mm new is close to the average monthly paycheck, i chose the sizes i'm often using and all except one are freshly sharpened. I also bought an tapered reamer because it has an extended MT2 to MT3 reducer i'll need to do some cleaning and sharpening on them. All in all not bad especially for the price i paid.
> View attachment 268353
> View attachment 268354
> View attachment 268352


What did you pay for them if you don't mind me asking? I acquired a lot of MT 2,3, & 4's from an auction, all US made and can't hardly give them away.


----------



## GoceKU

ddickey said:


> What did you pay for them if you don't mind me asking?



I don't mind, I paid 16$ for 5 drill bits: 28mm, 32mm, 35mm, 38mm, 45mm, which is way below the going rate almost scrap prices.
Going rate for used taper drill bit is: from 10 to 20mm 3-5$, 20 to 30mm 7-12$, 30mm and up15 -100$ a piece, there's always those vendors that want double the going rate, also there is the ones they want to sell and give deals like one i made today.


----------



## Cooter Brown

Found a set of laps with handles... Flexolap and Acrolap are the brand names


----------



## Janderso

I have a bunch of dull old drill bits. Working on a tool grinder from The Grizz so i can sharpen them
Heck yeah I would buy old tapered bits
Good find


----------



## Charles Spencer

Actually, large bits like that would be a good choice to learn how to hand sharpen them.  Much easier than smaller bits.


----------



## Janderso

That's what I was thinking Charles.
I just got back from 10 days in Mexico. While I was gone I spent some money sitting around the pool drinking Modelo Especial!
The Craftsman V blocks are my best buy.
Bob Korves volunteered to help me with an Er40 Chuck for my lathe. Thanks to Bob, I figured out I have a perfect condition MT4 spindle in the SB 13.
He wanted to have templates on hand to cut the taper for the chuck. I bought what we needed and some more.
Kind of like Christmas.


----------



## Z2V

I think I got a pretty good deal on a new boring bar today on Amazon. Every now and then crazy deals pop up.
Earlier in the week I was turned onto a set of Sunnex leveling casters on Amazon for $105. I bought them, the last set in stock. I put in for notification when they would again be available and it came back for $571 a set. I won’t be ordering a second set.


----------



## ddickey

Stole that one.


----------



## Z2V

I don’t have an immediate need for it now but could not pass it up for the price!


----------



## pineyfolks

Got a great deal today. I saw a listing for drill bits so I called. There's over 60 tapered shank drills and reamers up to 1" with indexes. Most have never been used.  $50 SCORE!!


----------



## Janderso

That is a heck of a deal, you could pay $50 a piece new.


----------



## pineyfolks

Janderso said:


> That is a heck of a deal, you could pay $50 a piece new.



Definitely more than $50 a piece. They're all Cleveland twist drill brand. #2 and #3 Morse taper.


----------



## Cooter Brown

Just bought some tooling for the Tool and Cutter Grinder...


----------



## ukkarl

Bought last Sunday from an estate sale close to me.  Paid $50 for the bundle


----------



## Cooter Brown

I'm Addicted... I can't stop.....








Didn't buy this but I saw it at my favorite used machine store. Solid Brass pieces, I was told these are being sold for $50...


----------



## GoceKU

Today i had some work near the junkyard i've bought things from before, i looked around there was some small round stock steel, not worth my time but there was some type of machine on top of the junk pile, the guys they brought it down for me it had two precision ground slide or ways. They are in good shape, and being on top of the pile were straight. They were held on with only 6 allen bolts i asked for a wrench and unbolted them, also bought the bottom part of a shopping cart with wheels, not sure what i'll used the slides for all in less then 5$ was a good deal.


----------



## Aaron_W

I've been tempted to just buy a cheap Chinese DTI, but I've been patient and last week I found an Alina dial test indicator for $55 shipped. It looks old but everything seems to work as it should.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited the tool market there was couple of new tool vendors but not many of them had machinist tooling at a good price, but i did manage to find this enormous threading tap wrench, the picture doesn't show how big really is, also bought this handmade tin offset flanel, i often work on modified cars and this will make pouring oil much easier, not a bad trip.


----------



## BenW

Picked up a gauge block set. Probably shouldn't have been high priority but the price was right. It's a CEJ grade 0 set in good overall shape. Not quite complete but I ordered all of the missing smaller blocks already. There are a few oxide spots on some of the blocks, any good way to remove them? I tried some steel wool on non- functional surfaces and it helped a little bit but didn't get rid of them entirely. I could just live with them of course, which is likely the best option. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## GreatOldOne

A Deckel S0 tool grinder, in need of some love and attention. eBay pics, hope to pick it up tommorow after work.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited an tool market in another city, prices were higher then my local market but i was able to found this rivnut pliers, this heavy duty wheel, i'm thinking would make a good drive wheel for a Belt Grinder and lastly bought those two manometers, one is extremely big and goes only to 4 bar, not a bad trip.


----------



## jrkorman

BGHansen said:


> Yeah, have it bad, but there is a purpose.  I had a buddy (Frosty Wyrick) with a very large toy train and Erector set collection.  He built a 1:85 scale model of the Mackinaw Bridge from Erector set parts that was 104 ft. long (photos below).  He passed away from colon cancer a few years ago.  His estate sale was attended by 5 people, so his treasured toy collection went for next to nothing. . .  My wife and I attended a woodworking shop auction about the same time.  There were over 400 at this sale in a very rural area.  We left because of the competition.
> 
> Bruce
> /QUOTE]
> 
> By mother lived in Clare, cousins in Farwell, so she took us by Frosty's some years back. Had a great time photographing some of his "toys."
> A question that has come up on the Railroading forums, you may know, Any idea where his caboose went?
> 
> Sad to hear about his collection. I've seen pictures and mom described some of it.
> 
> Thanks,


----------



## GreatOldOne

Picked up the deckel. 160 mile round trip, but I think it was worth it. She’ll need new paint and extensive cosmetic treatments at the evaporust spa - but it’s all there, bar a diamond dresser. 




I will need to swap out the motor. The one that came with it is three phase, and whilst I could wire it up to a VFD, it might be a bit overkill. That and a single phase 1/4 horse 2,800rpm motor will be a darn sight cheaper than a VFD.


----------



## ddickey

And yes. I paid way too much but locally made, I just couldn't help myself.


----------



## BGHansen

Few more eBay purchases came in the mail.  Got a 20mm ER32 collet for my Bridgeport mill's ER32 collet chuck for mounting an electronic edge finder.  I do layout work in two locations; seems the machinist's squares are always at the other bench so bought a set of 2" - 6" imports so both areas are stocked.  Impulse buy for $0.99 plus $3 shipping; set of indicator tips.  Lastly, an impact screwdriver.  If penetrating oil doesn't work, I'll beat it to death . . .

Bruce


----------



## GreatOldOne

I bought caswell blacking and nickel plating kits for when I restore the Dekel S0

http://www.caswelleurope.co.uk/black-oxide-gel-kit-for-blackening-steel/
http://www.caswelleurope.co.uk/plug-n-plate-nickel-plates-on-to-copper-brass-and-steel/


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

I bought a 18 piece 5c collet set from shars.


----------



## GreatOldOne

Bored at work = browsing of internet = £££. New motor for the Deckel:




Single phase, 2 pole (2800rpm) 0.18Kw (1/4hp) B3 mounting, should be a direct swap for the 3 phase motor on it.


----------



## hman

Today (actually last Friday and yesterday) I "bought" a 5 ton AC unit for my shop.  It's a 16.25 SEER and amazingly quiet.  The previous owner of the property had large swamp coolers in two of the windows.  But I'd decided not to use them - the added moisture wouldn't play nicely with machine tools, and they couldn't be used for heating in the (brief) winters we do have here in the Phoenix area.  The shop is still in "recently moved-in chaos" mode, though I really am making progress.  In case you're wondering, the chains dangling from the ceiling will eventually hold two full length Unistruts that will allow me to drape power cords overhead instead of underfoot.

Now I can spend comfortable time out there during the day ... 
Before:   After: 

Installation of the big duct:



Compressor:



Air handler, in "attic" above office area:



The big duct:


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Abom orange rubber gloves and a bimetal 10-14 blade for my bandsaw.


----------



## TerryH

I’m on the way to pickup my “new” Enco RF-30 mill. Pics to come.


----------



## GoceKU

Few days ago i visited a junkyard and there was a big air tank, i commented about it in another thread and got some good ideas how to make sure if is safe to be used. It was a big struggle transporting the tank home as it will not fit inside my car, so after borrowing a van i managed to bring it, the tank got few more dents then i remember first time i seen it wich don't bother me, but the ugly welded on feet do bother me and i found a hole where who ever welded the feet burn thru, this was disappointing, but since then i talked to couple of old time mechanics who have been working with compressors for over 40 years and they told me is not a big deal. That air tanks can be welded, as is not a high pressure but they need to be tested after worth. So there is hope for this 400 litre tank, the size is perfect for my needs, now it is also added to my list of future projects.


----------



## mksj

Picked up a new Greenfield/Cleveland Counterbore Set C91750 for $45, just happen to find this set on eBay and was the only bidder. When I checked the same set at MSC, it sells for $701 and Granger wants $878. OMG they must be smoking something , nice to have but not at that price.  I do a lot of counterbored holes and often use an end mill to cut the square shoulders, so these will be nice to have. Now to try to find a metric set at a reasonable price.


----------



## hman

GroceKU -
Call me paranoid ... but I'd advise a HUGE measure of caution with that tank.  Somebody scabbed the legs on to what was originally a horizontal tank, and as you said, they did an ugly job.  OK, it might pass a pressure test today.  But the pressure cycling the tank would undergo in normal use would continue to stress (flex?) the welds, and might eventually cause one to fail.  Not a pretty prospect.  OK, the "old time mechanics" reassured you.  But if at all possible, I'd suggest keeping the tank outside of your normal working area, with a sturdy wall between.


----------



## GoceKU

hman said:


> GroceKU -
> Call me paranoid ... but I'd advise a HUGE measure of caution with that tank. Somebody scabbed the legs on to what was originally a horizontal tank, and as you said, they did an ugly job. OK, it might pass a pressure test today. But the pressure cycling the tank would undergo in normal use would continue to stress (flex?) the welds, and might eventually cause one to fail. Not a pretty prospect. OK, the "old time mechanics" reassured you. But if at all possible, I'd suggest keeping the tank outside of your normal working area, with a sturdy wall between.



John, i sure appreciate your concern, this post was already long to mention, i have a sheet metal shed in between both my concrete houses, in which i plan to store this tank, air compressor and generator so if worst comes to be i'll be safe.


----------



## T Bredehoft

I received in the post today a package from Ebay ordered a couple of days ago. A lot of five double ended solid carbide 3/8 endmills, six flute with about a 3/64 radius. Total cost $30.00. that's $3.00 per cutter. In the ad they showed a picture of a stack of them,, had to be hundreds of them. They were offered as unused, I can see no evidence of use. For my PM25, they will be the go-to end mills for almost everything, aside from tiny work.  If you're looking for cutters for your smaller hobby mills, I'd suggest stocking up on these.


----------



## TerryH

Was a bit of a project but she's home. Now the fun begins...


----------



## hman

Nice looking mill.  Matter of fact, it looks just about new.  Congrats!


----------



## TerryH

hman said:


> Nice looking mill.  Matter of fact, it looks just about new.  Congrats!



Thanks! It needs a little love but overall it's pretty nice. Got the original Enco vice and a good bit of tooling with it for $500 all in. I bought it from an older gentleman that bought it new in 1996. Been in his garage ever since.


----------



## BenW

Found this delta drill press for cheap locally. I've never seen a delta here in Sweden before, american imports are uncommom here. The quill return spring is missing so I'll have to figure something out. It also came with the cabinet, a nice grinding vise that's a bit rusty and one of those rpm controllers (forgetting what they're called).
	

	
	
		
		

		
			








Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## Lordbeezer

Picked up a Kennedy top and bottom boxes full of tooling from a retired machinist that worked at Grumman aircraft in NY..many pin gauges .parrells.vise.dial and electric calipers.mics.v blocks.bore gauges .much more ..all name brand stuff.american Swiss.german..will post pictures later with couple questions on what some of the stuff is..


----------



## GoceKU

BenW said:


> I've never seen a delta here in Sweden before


We have the Delta drill presses here, they are workhorse machines, yours looks to be in good shape, just clean it up and keep it oiled.


----------



## BGHansen

Few more eBay pick-ups.  Must have 6 or 8 of these sets of Allen wrenches.  Think I've got a set at every machine now (~$12 each including shipping).  Also picked up a GTN-2 and GTN-3 parting tool from Shars (~$75 delivered).  Has a 5/8" boss for mounting to a QCTP tool holder.  Also picked up a bag 'o chuck keys for $14 including shipping.  My BP has three chucks at the ready but got them without individual keys.  Had been using a HF 4-way chuck key but it chews up my hands some when trying to torque down hard.  Ended up with the correct keys for each of the chucks.

Bruce


----------



## Lordbeezer

Couple pictures of tools I picked up..lots of cool small tooling.still have more in shop..


----------



## Lordbeezer

I paid 160 for tool boxes and contents.don't think I got screwed too bad..guy knows where a Sheldon lathe is that's been covered up for years in back corner of a local shop.owner wants it gone..should know in a couple days how much..


----------



## roadie33

Nice haul, Phil.


----------



## Canadianprime

For my lathe i just purchased a bunch of HSS blanks, quick change tool holders, files, MT3 dead center.  I just wish there was a decent metal store closer than 5 hrs away from me.


----------



## Aaron_W

This 1953 Machinery's handbook and use guide showed up on my door step a few days ago. They are in great shape for 65 year old books.

There is a site the tracks the changes over the years and the 1950s editions seem to be a sweet spot between old techniques and new. It features information on blacksmithing and forging that is not in many later editions.


----------



## BGHansen

Few more eBay pick ups.  First is a Phase II 5-C collet horizontal / vertical collet holder.  I see this being used on the mill for secondary ops on some Erector set parts I reproduce.  Also, an impulse buy on a 4" dial calipers.  No-name brand, but it was only $10 shipped and works fine.  Also picked up a pair of 1/4" x 7" x 18" pieces of O-2 annealed tool steel.  This will be used in some punch and die work.

Bruce


----------



## bfk

So on our way to the market this morning my wife wanted to stop by a garage sale in the next block. Being a nice accommodating kind of guy I went along. Good idea. I got these three sets of Starrett radius gages for $10. And a selection of screw length drill bits with 1/4" shafts, 19 for $5. All USA made. Only one or two have ever been used. And a pair of 15" tin snips for $3. The moral is always try and make your wife happy and you will be rewarded. (It's just that sometimes it takes a while.)
A couple of weeks ago I picked up the Mitutoyo small bore gages and a couple of Starrett hole gages for $20.


----------



## hman

You've obviously had excellent luck ... both with a wonderful wife and with a couple of great garage sales!

- John (former Corvallis resident)


----------



## Pirate

Picked up a Craftsman horizontal band saw a yard sale. Just need tires for it.
Just joined the group today.


----------



## ACHiPo

Pirate said:


> Picked up a Craftsman horizontal band saw a yard sale. Just need tires for it.
> Just joined the group today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 269901


Welcome and great score!


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited the local flea market, i spent some time walking all the rows there wasn't that much good quality tools at all, the first thing i found is this clamp type tool, obviously shop made by the looks is for separating chains i payed less than the material costs, then i found was this grinding stone hub, looks to be factory made and in good shape, this is something i could use for a tool post grinder, at the same vendor i also bought this cutting stone hub, is has two different size belt pulleys, also has couple different stone centre bore sizes, this would been useful for my chop saw build but i already built this part on my own, but for the price of the bearings i could not pass on it.


----------



## GreatOldOne

I ordered these a week ago, but they only just arrived. Hazet compressed air / refillable aerosols.




You can fill them with any fluid via the top cap or by unscrewing the bottle at the middle to split it in two (for easy cleaning I believe), and then pressurise it (to a max of 8 bar) via the schrader valve in the base


You then have a neat delivery system for cutting oil, etc etc. I filled one with the CT90 cutting oil I had which is quite viscous, and it got a healthy stream. 


I plan on putting some water soluble oil in the other. Or possibly get a big bottle of WD40 and use it instead of the disposable cans.

I also nabbed this on eBay. The guy clearly didn’t know what he had, as he put it on for a ridiculously low price, with best offer. I bid him so low that I expected a hearty fudge you to be the reply, but he said yes!




Never used, in the box along with a spare stylus and all the paperwork. Woop. Shiny shiny new toy.


----------



## roadie33

Where did you order the Hazet compressed air / refillable aerosols ?


----------



## GreatOldOne

roadie33 said:


> Where did you order the Hazet compressed air / refillable aerosols ?



https://m.svh24.de/hazet-spruehflasche-wiederbefuellbar-199-4-305103

Only €10 shipping to the UK


----------



## Cooter Brown

I just bought a Masso 4 Axis CNC controller, I'm going to convert my Bridgeport to CNC.


----------



## C-Bag

I finally got round to checking a local CL listing and even though I came away with a haul, I missed most of the stuff I REALLY wanted. Serves me right for not checking it out earlier but those things where they say they have too much to list are usually a bust, but the one time I don't jump on it....


----------



## GreatOldOne

Some keys for the Deckel


And the touch probe arrived. It is brand spanking new... 




It’s incredibly well made. The case is single hunk of cncd anodised aluminium. The tips have sacrificial ceramic shafts. It’s gorgeous.


----------



## GreatOldOne

eBay continues to be a happy hunting ground... Burnerd 6” independant 4 jaw.


----------



## Ianagos

Got a renishaw probe and tool setter on the ebuy looking for some last components to set it up.


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Starrett tool and instrument oil. Finally got it at an acceptable price.


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

I got a really nice Starrett 91b Tao handle from the auction site. Very nice.


----------



## Cooter Brown

I just bought 3 Clearpath Servos for my Masso CNC Bridgeport project
CPM-SDSK-3432S-RLN


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Cooter Brown said:


> I just bought 3 Clearpath Servos for my Masso CNC Bridgeport project
> CPM-SDSK-3432S-RLN
> View attachment 270705


Awesome


----------



## GreatOldOne

A 4” diameter lump of cast iron to make a backplate for the 6” burnerd chuck that arrived exceptionally well packed yesterday.


----------



## jrkorman

Well got a new toy in today's mail. Nice little "Old" Federal B2I indicator. This thing is heavy too.
Needs a new contact point but otherwise very nice.


----------



## vocatexas

I won an E-bay auction last night of a lot of hold-downs for use with a mill or shaper. Studs, T-nuts, step blocks, etc. Over 40 POUNDS worth...


----------



## Lordbeezer

I picked up a Federal C21 in with a bunch of tooling couple weeks ago..what's the difference in B and C..


----------



## jrkorman

Lordbeezer said:


> I picked up a Federal C21 in with a bunch of tooling couple weeks ago..what's the difference in B and C..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 270755



It is the size of the indicator - Found an old Federal brochure on ebay.


----------



## vocatexas

Picked up a Buckingham 62040 thread restorer on Ebay for less than $12 today. Considering what they cost new, I thought that was a score.


----------



## Pirate

Yard sale score today.
Brown & Sharp Digit-Cal Mk IV  6" digital caliper for $5. !!!!!!! Perfect condition.


----------



## Cooter Brown

I just bought a small lot of acme taps....single start, 2 start, 3 start, and 4 start taps, left and right hand.


----------



## Z2V

Amazon delivered these today. Alford Polk reamer set 1/16”-3/8” in 1/64” increments, and a arbor and saw blade.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited my local tool/flea market and it is that time of the year when some of the workers in Germany come on vacation and bring old tools and machines to the vendors to sell. There was some good cutters, tapered drill, reamers but they are still high on prices, there wasn't many precision of measuring tools. But i did managed to buy this good condition oil can and rotary deburring bit. But the main buy of the day ware this two big drills, the first one is a real beast, Duss Duax 4 speed 1250W MT2 machine, this thing weights around 15kg and ther is no way one person can operate it, and i'm thinking i may use it in my drill press build instead of using belt and pulleys and the other drill is also MT2 steel and hummer drill it has a good drill chuck and key on it, i may use it as is, they both work nice and quietly, all in i spend around 25$ which is a great deal.


----------



## Z2V

GoceKU, like the old oil can…


----------



## GoceKU

Z2V said:


> GoceKU, like the old oil can…


I come across them fairly often but avoid sheet metal ones and heavily used, i like the solder thin ones and cast aluminium ones, today there were three to choose. I choose this one because is in good condition and was 2$


----------



## jrkorman

So I'd only stopped by the antique shop in Abilene (TX) to pick up an old Bailey #5 plane that I'd seen the last time we were there. A little rusty but will clean up very nicely. So was walking around some of the other stalls (dangerous) and saw a box that said "Watchmakers Lathe".

That certainly got my interest, as well as  the other 3 items with it; one being a good sized Kennedy toolbox in excellent shape.

So 15 minutes and $550 later I walked out with this.




Some attachments like the jigsaw I'll never use, have a very good one. The little rectangular and circular milling tables will be very useful else where in the shop I'm certain. Will be hooking up something else to the powerfeed to slow it down, motor - stepper maybe. The box had all sorts of small spare parts and some tools, most didn't look like they've been used at all or very infrequently.

In any event, a new toy to play with.


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Bought some 1/2 x 1/2 HSS tool blank. 3 Vasco supreme and 1 Mo Max.


----------



## bfk

A couple of weeks ago I picked up this Starrett micrometer for $25. 
Then this weekend I found this toolbox on CL. It's a Waterloo, labelled as the TRAX series. Can't find out much about that series, but it's very heavy, thick steel, full extension ball bearing slides, 6" casters. Only a couple of minor scratches. Estimated weight after loading and unloading and getting it down stairs is about 10000lbs, but that may be muscle fatigue talking. I gave the gentleman the $150 he was asking.


----------



## GoceKU

We really should open a thread," What did you buy at the junkyard today". Today after work i stopped by the local junkyard out of curiosity every so often they have good materiels ( steel, brass, aluminium round stock) which make the home projects much cheaper. But today was the day after they cleared the yard so there was no materials only cars, which i always like looking thru, first thing i found was this old tile cutter i got it because i thought the bars are solid but when i got it home under better light i've seen they have a weld line which means is tubing, also got that gabru joint, my driving style seems to destroy them, then i came across this hydraulic or air regulator or junction it has many elbows and reducers which always come in handy. Also found two thick wall tubing i often use them on my lathe for making parts. Last couple of things are car related, one on the bottom is a diesel Webasto additional heater for cars and a fuel rail and injectors, all in all for less then 6$ cheap and good trip.


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Got a lot of reamers for a good price. Look to be all USA made.


----------



## The_Apprentice

After being bit by another Amazon tooling scammer, I found one that was legit. 

Now someone tell me, why is the capitalization "MIni" [sic] and not just "Mini"?


----------



## vtcnc

The_Apprentice said:


> After being bit by another Amazon tooling scammer, I found one that was legit.
> View attachment 271236



eBay has the feedback system. What does Amazon have to warn you of scammers? Should we start a list?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

vtcnc said:


> eBay has the feedback system. What does Amazon have to warn you of scammers? Should we start a list?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You can see reviews of the vendors on amazon. Kinda of hidden and you have to search for it. Cant remember of the top of my head how and where to look.


----------



## Dan_S

A little slitting saw I needed for my next project!


----------



## GreatOldOne

GoceKU said:


> fuel rail and injectors
> View attachment 271097



Ah, I recognise that. Many a happy hour stripping down E30 / M20 based engines and their ancillaries whilst building Vikki. Do you have an E30 3 series?

Edit... now I’ve got my glasses on, it’s not an M20 rail... hah. And the injectors look different as well. Guessing it’s diesel, like the webasto.


----------



## GoceKU

GreatOldOne said:


> Ah, I recognise that. Many a happy hour stripping down E30 / M20 based engines and their ancillaries whilst building Vikki. Do you have an E30 3 series?
> 
> Edit... now I’ve got my glasses on, it’s not an M20 rail... hah. And the injectors look different as well. Guessing it’s diesel, like the webasto.



They are BMW 320i petrol injectors, BMW E46 M52 / M54 engine, the webasto is from a bmw X5 diesel. I don not own bmw, i like french cars, Peugeot X05 an X06 series, but i do often mix and match parts in my car builds.


----------



## BGHansen

Few more eBay/Amazon pick ups.  First was a couple of 3500 MaH Nimh batteries for my Dewalt 14.4 V drill/driver.  The NiCads weren't holding a charge anymore, the nickel metal hydrides work in the same universal Dewalt charger and are about double the life of the NiCads.  Paid a touch over $30 for two batteries including shipping.

Read a number of rave reviews from guys on the forum about the Irwin socket tap wrenches.  Don't have an immediate need for them, but have them in the tool box for "just in case".

Also picked up a Blair sheet metal hole cutter.  A lot of my work involves knocking holes in sheet metal and 1/8"-1/4" aluminum plate.  This tool has a series of annular cutters up to 3/4".  There's a spring loaded center that retracts as you advance the cut.  The 3/4" hole popped in a piece of 3/16" thick aluminum was perfectly burr free on the back side, pretty impressed with the first cut with the very sharp (for now) cutter.

Bruce


----------



## francist

New old stock 4-jaw chuck, I can't see that it's ever been mounted before. Made in England, very smooth.




-frank


----------



## GoceKU

Its sunday that means the tool / flea market is on. Is that time of year when imported used machines are cheapest, first thing that caught my eye was this aluminium vice, is very big, and has a quick cam lock on it, looks like is for light work, also come with extended jaws and looks like never been used so i bought it. Second major thing i bought was this Ferm FTB-13 table top drill press, looks like scrap, all rusty and the seller said did not worked,, i looked at it and seen is hardly ever been used and the security tab on the belt cover is bent, which will stop the motor from turning on, so after some negotiation i got the drill press for 25 euros. Which is about 10% of the going rate for those, i have lot of cleaning to get it to useful shape. I did bent back the tap and it works fine, i haven't put a drill on it to see how much power it has.


----------



## jdedmon91

Not grand stuff. Cruised through the local flea market. Picked up a couple of items today. The light arm is for a camera mount for my videos. The machinable bar of mystery steel was in with other junk. The light was $4 the steel bar $2. I wanted the steel for my stock stash. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






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----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Picked up a couple more good deals on the big auction site. First is a PEC imperial pitch gauge and a SPI Japanese made metric pitch gauge. Second is a Starrett 436 1-2 micrometer that looks to have been used very little.


----------



## jdedmon91

Alumimum stock for the shop. 8 dollars worth. 35” x 2” diameter stock around 3” pieces. Stopped by local scrap yard. A dollar a pound. Not much other stock but there was almost a hopper full of these ends 


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----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Noga with a shars indicator for $50.


----------



## BGHansen

Another frivolous eBay win showed up in the mail, 268 (yup, counted them all) mostly numbered screw machine length cobalt drill bits.  Sizes were from a #2 down to #60, at least 35 difference sizes.  Over 95% are PTD (Precision Twist Drill ?) brand and most are unused.  Not bad for $35 including shipping though I don't know where/when I'll use a dozen #24 screw machine length drill bits. The General numbered drill bit sizer got a good workout.

Bruce


----------



## Janderso

I think you may be hooked dude.


----------



## Superburban

I stopped buying lots like that from e-bay, too many boxes showed up empty. I still say someone in Denver has one heck of a tool collection. Maybe I'll start again, and see if they have gotten better.


----------



## f350ca

Decided to give powder coating a go. Bought a Red Line gun and a few colours of powder to start. Will pick up an old electric range for the shop.



Greg


----------



## Janderso

MillerMatic 211 MIG Welder. After TIG welding several hours last weekend, I decided I needed a MIG too.


----------



## mksj

Been Looking for a larger boring bar (1") for some time, wanted carbide but they typically run around $800 for a 12" discounted which is way more than I wanted to spend. Just happen to see a used one listed in very good condition, only a slight ding at the tip of the insert holder. KENNAMETAL E16-SCLPR3 1" carbide boring bar, CPMT 32.51 inserts paid $170, so very happy with that. A high positive profile insert with a smaller nose radius is preferred for boring, so will get some CPGT and CPMT 32.51 inserts. Picked up an inexpensive oversized BXA boring bar holder so should be good to go and will be able to do some deep boring with this one.


----------



## Cooter Brown

I just bought a FLIR DM90 Multimeter.....


----------



## darkzero

Been doing a lot of work on my truck lately, bought a new jack to replace my 20+ yr old Craftsman. Never thought I would ever say this about a Harbor Freight product but this jack is very nice. No wonder Snap On tried to sue.


----------



## darkzero

Got these a couple of weeks ago. Nutesert tool & M12 Fuel 3/8" ratchet.

Got tired of my ballasts falling off every summer when the double sided tape got to hot.


----------



## Ken from ontario

darkzero said:


> Been doing a lot of work on my truck lately, bought a new jack to replace my 20+ yr old Craftsman.


Great buy Will.
If that's the same model I'm thinking, I "ve heard a lot of positive reviews on that HF jack , waiting for our PA stores to start selling them, what I want the most in a jack ,other than the lifting capacity is how many inches off the ground it is at its lowest, and how fast it can pump, this one seems to have everything I need.


----------



## darkzero

Ken from ontario said:


> Great buy Will.
> If that's the same model I'm thinking, I "ve heard a lot of positive reviews on that HF jack , waiting for our PA stores to start selling them, what I want the most in a jack ,other than the lifting capacity is how many inches off the ground it is at its lowest, and how fast it can pump, this one seems to have everything I need.



Thanks Ken, definitely was a great buy. Main reasons why I bought  it, great reviews, pumps fast, & lifting height. My Craftsman jack is old school, takes forever to pump & barely lifts my truck high enough to get jack stands under it. I love the long length of it too. I do have one of those low profile aluminum jacks that I use when working on lowered cars but it's useless for lifting my truck.


----------



## GoceKU

darkzero said:


> Thanks Ken, definitely was a great buy. Main reasons why I bought it, great reviews, pumps fast, & lifting height.



I totally agree Will, a good strong jack is a must and a safety hazard in some cases, i always test a new jack with the wheels on few times before i put it to use, and somehow i've had 7 floor jacks fail (totally collapsed will not work at all) on me in a year so now i only use bottle jacks, much harder but they last.


----------



## darkzero

GoceKU said:


> I totally agree Will, a good strong jack is a must and a safety hazard in some cases, i always test a new jack with the wheels on few times before i put it to use, and somehow i've had 7 floor jacks fail (totally collapsed will not work at all) on me in a year so now i only use bottle jacks, much harder but they last.



Luckily I've never had a jack fail on me, well none that I have personally owned. But I do bleed them & check the oil regularly which I know may people do not think to do. But still even when I have my vehicle on jack stands, I still keep the jack in place too just in case. Unfortunately my truck is lifted so a bottle jack won't work & I still work on lowered cars occasionally too.


----------



## jocat54

GoceKU said:


> I totally agree Will, a good strong jack is a must and a safety hazard in some cases, i always test a new jack with the wheels on few times before i put it to use, and somehow i've had 7 floor jacks fail (totally collapsed will not work at all) on me in a year so now i only use bottle jacks, much harder but they last.




I always Jack it up and put jack stands under the vehicle before doing anything else.


----------



## FOMOGO

Got this Rong Fu 7x12" band saw for $250. Has 1hp motor, hyd. down feed and coolant system, and a shop made riser with 5 leveling feet to put it at a more comfotable working height (It's sitting on the blue cart). Also got a free pallet jack, needs a little work, and a nice six wheel shop cart. Going to give the saw a test run tomorrow on some 1/4" steel plate. Mike


----------



## GoceKU

jocat54 said:


> I always Jack it up and put jack stands under the vehicle before doing anything else.



Using jack stands is a must especially if going underneath, i've done work on some armored cars but they weigh probably the same as an F250 i think is the quality of china tool is to blame. I have thrown away all the broken jacks but is alarming to see the body of the jack split in half, or have the shafts for the wheels snap and the whole jack get smashed sideways, eye opening stuff.


----------



## darkzero

The_Apprentice said:


> After being bit by another Amazon tooling scammer, I found one that was legit.
> 
> Now someone tell me, why is the capitalization "MIni" [sic] and not just "Mini"?
> View attachment 271236



Must be one of those that are made in Chian.


----------



## NortonDommi

What I bought today was a CS-315 cold cut saw. Branded Cammac,(local machinery dealer),it's the same as a Boulton in the States.
NZ$200 sans stand, blade and pump.  I have a spare pump, material to make a stand and a mate has just said he has a few blades kicking around that might need a sharpen and a home.  New they are around the NZ$3000 mark so quite happy.


----------



## jdedmon91

Went to the local flea market found this set of Starrett dial calipers for $15. The buy of the year. 










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----------



## GoceKU

Today i stop by the flea market and by a local machinery seller, on the flea market i bought the 30mm taper shank drill and 17mm gearwrench, i had a struggle with a stubborn bolt and cost me two wrenches but i won and this is the replacement. Also there i found and bought this siliconized steel cable which should come in handy around the shop. After the flea market i stopped by one local machinery seller i looked at a mill but his price was a full (0) off the real price so no luck in buying a mill but i bought couple of things, first was this pipe cutter Stahlwille decent condition, needs a new blade but for the price and quality was a good buy. Then i spotted this metal clamp, used but still usable and last bought two square drive wrenches, all different sizes, and good quality, not a bad acquisition for the shop.


----------



## Brento

BGHansen said:


> Few more eBay purchases came in the mail.  Got a 20mm ER32 collet for my Bridgeport mill's ER32 collet chuck for mounting an electronic edge finder.  I do layout work in two locations; seems the machinist's squares are always at the other bench so bought a set of 2" - 6" imports so both areas are stocked.  Impulse buy for $0.99 plus $3 shipping; set of indicator tips.  Lastly, an impact screwdriver.  If penetrating oil doesn't work, I'll beat it to death . . .
> Bruce



Nice pick up on the squares. I need a set like that still.


Lordbeezer said:


> Couple pictures of tools I picked up..lots of cool small tooling.still have more in shop..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 269450
> View attachment 269451
> View attachment 269452
> View attachment 269453
> View attachment 269454



Those deltronic pins are great if they are still in good shape good find!


----------



## killswitch505

Didn’t really buy em more like fell in my lap


----------



## Redmech

A couple of my recent purchases.


----------



## Janderso

Where did you get the spindle center finder? Not sure what to call it. That is sweet.
A Doall mill? Nice


----------



## GreatOldOne

Prusa i3 Mk3 to replace my cheap, only worked during rare planetary alignments (and if the correct blood sacrifices where made) delta 3d printer




Went with black with black rather than the standard dayglo orange. Waiting for it to ship from the Czech Republic will be a pain. Why a Prusa? Tops the reliability lists consistently, huge community backing and all the major slicing software works out of the box with it.


----------



## Redmech

Janderso said:


> Where did you get the spindle center finder? Not sure what to call it. That is sweet.
> A Doall mill? Nice



That’s just a Starrett planer gauge. I measured the centerline off my bed and leave that adjusted to that measurement. I keep thinking I should just take a piece of 3/4” round stock and turn the ends down to the correct length, just haven’t done it yet.


----------



## Redmech

Yes it’s a Do All mill made in Spain. It’s in storage for another month or so till my shop is finished.


----------



## darkzero

Been waiting patiently for a 25% off Zoro sale. Got me a Jet 2x42 grinder for $391 including tax & free shipping. Orderd Monday night, received this morning. Woohoo.

Unfortunately no time tonplay with it for a while but at least I finally got it. Only took it out the box to power it on, tables are still in the box. When I get done doing all the stuff I need to on my truck I'll pull it back out of the box & set it up properly.


----------



## Aukai

That is the one I have, I modified the platen, and added the pyrex backing. It gets used a lot.


----------



## vtcnc

Got this in the mail from member @wa5cab. Thanks Robert!


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----------



## Cooter Brown

Cylindrical grinding fixture...


3" Starrett Calipers




This is a reprint...






1945


----------



## vtcnc

Wood lathe off Craigslist. $25 and has a working 1/3 HP motor. Not sure how much I will be able to do with this little guy, but that's ok with me. Wil be a good learning experience. A quick review of what is in front of me yields the following info: 10" swing x 24" between centers, G&E motor, and Torrington Needle bearings in the headstock. There is another sticker that looks like it starts with a cursive "D". A search of the Manufacturers' Index at Vintage Machinery led me to this brochure: Darra James.

It's a Model 380, Darra James. Interesting feature is highlighted in the brochure where the head stock is transformed into a gap  bed lathe by putting it on a different bench! Love the ingenuity in old advertising like this. As a matter of fact, the head stock was detached when I picked it up yesterday.


----------



## roadie33

Picked up 3 adjustable parallels off Ebay this week.
1 Starrett, 1 Lufkin and an unknown one with Japan on it.
All 3 in great shape for $25 delivered.


----------



## Brento

Where does everyone find these great deals on ebay. I bought a box of silver and demming drills for 15$ on amazon. Originally 40 so no i have the standard 9/16 up to 1”. Only issue i had was there was a burr on one of the cutting edges i just have to file off easily with my diamond card and the 1” had a chip in it by the point.


----------



## Cooter Brown

Brento said:


> Where does everyone find these great deals on ebay. I bought a box of silver and demming drills for 15$ on amazon. Originally 40 so no i have the standard 9/16 up to 1”. Only issue i had was there was a burr on one of the cutting edges i just have to file off easily with my diamond card and the 1” had a chip in it by the point.



Yeah 90% of my tool purchases are from fleebay. You need to search for lots or change the search condition to used....


----------



## roadie33

Sorry, forgot to add the pic of them.


----------



## vtcnc

Cooter Brown said:


> Yeah 90% of my tool purchases are from fleebay. You need to search for lots or change the search condition to used....



I also create saved searches that will send me email alerts based on my search terms. "vintage tool lots" is a zinger.


----------



## Brento

Ive tried searching for like end mill lots and never found any decent ones but id love to get some adjustable parallels or something like that for cheap since they cost a pretty penny.


----------



## Lordbeezer

Didn't buy today but did find it today..its been on a shelf covered up couple years.Oldak dial indicator new in box.figured it was a good tool made in the UK..goggle not showing any info..MS-5..


----------



## Cooter Brown

Brento said:


> Ive tried searching for like end mill lots and never found any decent ones but id love to get some adjustable parallels or something like that for cheap since they cost a pretty penny.



Try a search for:  machinist tool lot


----------



## francist

There's some info on Oldak here :
http://www.lathes.co.uk/oldak/
-frank


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by the local tool/ flea market, it was a hot day and i did walk thru all the rows but only found couple of things, first was this machinist clamp, little rusty but still usable, next was this nos pressure gauge good quality, it was same price like new china gauge but i'm sure it will last more then the china one, at the same vender bought this set of wheels and lasly bought this _Crane Trolley_, factory made probably lighter duty then what i would build but for the price of the bearings it seam like a good deal.


----------



## Cooter Brown

This is a Great book to have around...


----------



## Cooter Brown

$190 on Fleebay! Weldon Air Bearing End Mill Grinding Fixture!!!!


----------



## Brento

Nice i was going to bid on a lot of endmills and boring bars but the price jumped higher then id like to spend for mystery cutting edges


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Good a good deal on 3 Starrett 436 mics. 2-3,3-4&5-6.


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

These go with the 1-2 I already have. I will on the hunt for a 0-1 and 4-5. Also need a spanner and standards.


----------



## RJSakowski

Until you find a proper set of standards, you can make your own.  I would use some 1/4" diameter stainless rod and cur slightly oversized, !", 2", 3", 4", and 5" lengths.  Dress the ends to square them in a lathe using a Dremel tool and cutoff wheel.  Measure the 1" length with a 0-1" micrometer and remove the excess length.   Use the finished piece to calibrate the 1 - 2" micrometer and repeat the process.  Repeat for the remaining pieces.

You can simplify the process by grinding the standards to slightly larger than the ful inch size. All my micrometers are capable of measuring .025" to .100" over their nominal size.  Grind the standard to something between nominal and .025" oversize, measure and record the actual length and tape to the standard.

If you have the opportunity to do so, it would be good to verify the standard lengths with measurements using known good micrometers.  

The process isn't foolproof as any measurement error will propagate through the standard set. but it will allow you to use your micrometers while you are looking for a proper set of standards.


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

RJSakowski said:


> Until you find a proper set of standards, you can make your own.  I would use some 1/4" diameter stainless rod and cur slightly oversized, !", 2", 3", 4", and 5" lengths.  Dress the ends to square them in a lathe using a Dremel tool and cutoff wheel.  Measure the 1" length with a 0-1" micrometer and remove the excess length.   Use the finished piece to calibrate the 1 - 2" micrometer and repeat the process.  Repeat for the remaining pieces.
> 
> You can simplify the process by grinding the standards to slightly larger than the ful inch size. All my micrometers are capable of measuring .025" to .100" over their nominal size.  Grind the standard to something between nominal and .025" oversize, measure and record the actual length and tape to the standard.
> 
> If you have the opportunity to do so, it would be good to verify the standard lengths with measurements using known good micrometers.
> 
> The process isn't foolproof as any measurement error will propagate through the standard set. but it will allow you to use your micrometers while you are looking for a proper set of standards.



Very smart! Thanks


----------



## Cooter Brown

I didn't know that aluminum DOM tubing was available. I just bought 2" OD x 36" from an Alro metal outlet store for $18


----------



## Cooter Brown

This book finally showed up and I feel like I need to share these few pages... Very good book....


----------



## Brento

So today i won lufkin adjustable parallels https://m.ebay.com/itm/-/2230680349...48.l10137&nordt=true&rt=nc#vi__app-cvip-panel

And sunday i ended up winning a huge lot of tools and some of them are in great shape! https://m.ebay.com/itm/-/1131468290...48.l10137&nordt=true&rt=nc#vi__app-cvip-panel


----------



## Cooter Brown

Brento said:


> So today i won lufkin adjustable parallels https://m.ebay.com/itm/-/2230680349...48.l10137&nordt=true&rt=nc#vi__app-cvip-panel
> 
> And sunday i ended up winning a huge lot of tools and some of them are in great shape! https://m.ebay.com/itm/-/1131468290...48.l10137&nordt=true&rt=nc#vi__app-cvip-panel






 I have that exact same set of Lufkin adjustable parallels they are very nice...


----------



## Brento

They look in great shape in the pictures so im hoping it works out. The tools i got though are pretty nice. Some custom tools in there as well which ill just put aside in a box for a rainy day. Some neat radies tools were hand made as well and get this LABELED so i know the size without doing some measuring. Didnt have any boring bars yet so that was a plus and there is a few baby ones for small holes which is nice as well.


----------



## Superburban

Cooter Brown said:


> This book finally showed up and I feel like I need to share these few pages... Very good book....
> 
> View attachment 272723
> 
> View attachment 272724
> View attachment 272725
> 
> View attachment 272727


I have that book, I keep it by the bedside, makes for some great reading.


----------



## Martin W

I bought these two 45 degree milling cutters.will work great for chamfering edges
Cheers
Martin


----------



## Martin W

Also picked up a box of 40 taper holders shell mill a Jacobs chuck and MT3 adapter

Cheers
Martin


----------



## GoceKU

Today i did not plan to visit the tool market but need to buy couple things from the hardware store like V Belts but they did not have the size i needed, so i vent to the tool market there i found the belts also found few more things. First thing i found was this big door closer, should outlast the new china ones. Then i bought this heavily used makita cordless drill, it has a hummer and 3 speeds which is rare and still has more life in it. Then i found those crimping pliers, the seller know what he was selling so they are not cheap, so i had to make a package deal to bring the price down, i combine it with this new 3 phase contactor, i got fair price for both at the end, but i'm very pleased i don't have to solder new pins on fuel injector connectors those players are perfect for them.


----------



## Ken from ontario

GoceKU said:


> Then i bought this heavily used makita cordless drill, it has a hummer and 3 speeds which is rare and still has more life in it.


That is  rare to have 3 speeds on that Makita drill, I have that combo set (LCT-200 ,drill/driver) bought the kit 10 years ago and they still function like the day I bought them, my drill though only has 2 speed for hammer position.
The batteries are expensive but they last a long time.


----------



## GoceKU

Ken from ontario said:


> That is rare to have 3 speeds on that drill, I have that combo set (LCT-200 ,drill/driver) bought the kit 10 years ago and they still function like the day I bought them, my drill though only has 2 speed for hammer position.
> The batteries are expensive but they last a long time.



Ken, yeah i did not give much attention on makita cordless drills, i liked bosch ones but at my full time job i'm building coaches, i use makita DDF483 8 hours everyday and have started to like them, the one i bought today is much stronger and better then the one i have at work.


----------



## Cadillac

Man I had a great week for tooling. Auction for tool company. I will say again that auction prices at least around here are stupid cheap. 
I went after some fixtures for my surface grinder. This lot was by itself and I was happy to get it



Then when I was picking up the stuff I saw this sitting next to it which I found out didn’t get listed for some reason. Guy asked if I was interested. Said yes he said make offer I told him 100 bucks he said yours


Crappy thing was I’d rather have the suburban one. Oh well maybe sell the first one?
Then I got this was part of a larger lot but I saw it in the corner and wanted it. And all the reamers,cap screw bores,radius cutters, angle plates,parallels,and diamond grinding wheels were all icing on the cake. Paid 150 for lot I thought no I made out like a bandit. It’s a excello compound sine chuck
	

		
			
		

		
	






I love machine auctions except for the fact that I am running out of storage for all this stuff.


----------



## Brento

I can take some of those radius cutters off your hand lol. My auction that i won i had a couple of home made radius cutters from the previous owner. They look good. Some of them are made for lathes now but im thinking of seeing what the dimension is of the flat he made for the tool. Maybe i can use it in the mill still and just creep up on things since it would be a 1 flute cutter.


----------



## Cadillac

Brento said:


> I can take some of those radius cutters off your hand lol. My auction that i won i had a couple of home made radius cutters from the previous owner. They look good. Some of them are made for lathes now but im thinking of seeing what the dimension is of the flat he made for the tool. Maybe i can use it in the mill still and just creep up on things since it would be a 1 flute cutter.



Funny thing is them radius cutters were on the long list to get eventually. I’ve used carbide router bits to get round overs but 1/4 shanks scare me. I have a thing for cutters of any style. I must have thousands of reamers,endmills,dovetails,slotters,ballnose, everything. I may have bought two of them new! I get shoeboxes of them for pennies on the dollar and their usually brand new or sharpened with coating still on. I recently acquired a tool and cutter grinder to learn the art of sharpening. Long road though. But the tooling is what does the job so I my mind you can’t have enough. Just enough drawers to pile them in.
I haven’t went through and checked the sizes but I think theirs some duplicates if so I’ll pm you. Looking for anything specific?


----------



## Cooter Brown




----------



## Brento

Cadillac said:


> Funny thing is them radius cutters were on the long list to get eventually. I’ve used carbide router bits to get round overs but 1/4 shanks scare me. I have a thing for cutters of any style. I must have thousands of reamers,endmills,dovetails,slotters,ballnose, everything. I may have bought two of them new! I get shoeboxes of them for pennies on the dollar and their usually brand new or sharpened with coating still on. I recently acquired a tool and cutter grinder to learn the art of sharpening. Long road though. But the tooling is what does the job so I my mind you can’t have enough. Just enough drawers to pile them in.
> I haven’t went through and checked the sizes but I think theirs some duplicates if so I’ll pm you. Looking for anything specific?


That funny bc the eBay lot i won was bc i needed the boring bars and the end mills. Sadly alot are really tiny ones like 3/16 and small with a few 5/16 and 1/2. I dont really have any need of sizes. Im more or less trying to just build up my stock of things to get started. I had a few cutters from a previous job and that was all i had to start out with.


----------



## Brento

Those lufkin parallels came in today. Normal wear and tear i would say except the C parallels has some digs in it. Does anyone have any ideas on how i can recondition that one to be better? I dont have a surface grinder but i could use the one at work if i had to.


----------



## GreatOldOne

My new printer arrived yesterday. 



I’m documenting the build in the 3D printer sub forum.


----------



## Cadillac

Brento said:


> Those lufkin parallels came in today. Normal wear and tear i would say except the C parallels has some digs in it. Does anyone have any ideas on how i can recondition that one to be better? I dont have a surface grinder but i could use the one at work if i had to.



I would just stone them. They look to be in good shape just acouple scratches and such.


----------



## Brento

I took a bad picture but the one in my hand has a few gouges in them. They will still work great i am sure but i just like to fix up my measuring instruments if i can.


----------



## Brento

Whelp i found a nice deal on some 1.5" to .5" aluminum round stock on amazon and then also went to hobby metal kits and picked up some 12L round stock from 1" to 5/16", 2" cast iron round stock and 1"x1.5" 1018 steel plating. Unfortunately i still need to pick up some 2" round stock of steel and alot of 2"sq plate of 1018. And that is becoming expensive. Just as an example i need 80" of the 2" sq stock. The wife is not going to be happy.


----------



## francist

Starrett No. 196
I've wanted one of these little gaffers for a long time. Finally one came up for a decent enough price and I got the jump on it. Supposed to be Used, but if it is I'd say very sparingly. Not even a scuff on the crystal.




I like Starrett products. I know they may not be the most highly regarded anymore, but there's something about them that just feels good to me. 

Thanks for looking!

-frank


----------



## f350ca

My uncle, a retired machinist gave me a couple of those, they were new at the time, wish they still looked that good. Enjoy

Greg


----------



## Nogoingback

I have one those and use it all the time to dial in my 4 jaw chuck.  It doesn't look as nice as yours though.


----------



## francist

Yeah, I'm really looking forward to being able to use it. I have another back plunge that I find really useful for setting up on the shaper but it's nowhere near as smooth. I ordered a deep hole attachment for the 196 as well but it's not here yet. Have to round up a couple nice snugs to go with though -- they seem harder to come by for some reason.

-frank


----------



## Brento

If you dont mind me asking as this isnt the best place for a school yard lesson but what are those indicators good for with the plunger in the back? Ive seen one before but never been used.


----------



## Cooter Brown

I just picked up a Lincoln Squarewave 200 today


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Got a old Fray mill that’s feeling neglected and needs some love.


----------



## francist

Brento said:


> If you dont mind me asking as this isnt the best place for a school yard lesson but what are those indicators good for with the plunger in the back? Ive seen one before but never been used.


 
I don't know that there are that many operations that absolutely could not be done with another indicator, but like anything maybe just not as conveniently. I find the back plunger style useful for the shaper where a drop indicator would be facing forward instead of up towards my face. Also the size is sometimes nice to squeak into a space where a standard AGD2 indicator might be too tall. One thing that does come to mind is the inside of a hole (using the deep hole attachment), but honestly how many times does the average person really need to do that?? The button foot does make sliding over slightly rough surfaces or bridging gaps easier though, but you can also buy button tips for regular indicators and they work fine.

I see the 196 used mostly in the older texts where the use of surface gauges is also more prevalent. Perhaps they have been supplanted now by the more widespread availability of the stylus-type of test indicator? I suspect a lot has do with personal preference and/or experience more than anything else, but it'd be interesting to hear from some of the other older guys that perhaps used them more.

-frank


----------



## Cooter Brown

Brento said:


> If you dont mind me asking as this isnt the best place for a school yard lesson but what are those indicators good for with the plunger in the back? Ive seen one before but never been used.



I like using the back plunger indicator for tramming my mill head back to 90 degrees. The big plunger face helps to skip over the t-slots without readjusting the indicator. It’s also easier to read than a normal dial indicator because the dial always stays up where you can read it, you don’t need a mirror or a step stool to see the numbers.   LULZ


----------



## Brento

Cooter Brown said:


> I like using the back plunger indicator for trimming my mill head back to 90 degrees. The big plunger face helps to skip over the t-slots without readjusting the indicator. It’s also easier to read than a normal dial indicator because the dial always stays up where you can read it, you don’t need a mirror or a step stool to see the numbers.   LULZ


I will have to keep that in mind if i can find one.


----------



## Cooter Brown

MAKEITOUTOFWOOD said:


> These go with the 1-2 I already have. I will on the hunt for a 0-1 and 4-5. Also need a spanner and standards.




You need to be careful buy used mics they usually need to be lapped. Run the dial down onto a ground piece of metal and look a light, you can usually see small gaps of light on old mics especially the one with steel faces.

But if you’re working with wood those tolerances probably don’t matter at all..... lol

+or - .250” lulz


----------



## rwm

Sometimes eBay is good:






Beautiful piece. Needs a little restoration to rekindle its former glory!

Robert


----------



## Brento

Nice find. I have a bokthat has one of those as a project. Some day i will make it. Really no rush though.


----------



## SCLead

Not really _today,_ as it came in a few days ago. Ellis 6.5" with a Buck chuck, both need a little lovin'..

_This_ actually did come in today, and I'm a wee bit too excited . All the way from Italy, no less. Looks like it's only been opened once or twice.


----------



## Nogoingback

Brento said:


> If you dont mind me asking as this isnt the best place for a school yard lesson but what are those indicators good for with the plunger in the back? Ive seen one before but never been used.



Here's how I use mine: dialing in the 4 jaw.  A pin sized for a snug lives in a boring bar holder, which allows me to set up the indicator in about 15 seconds.


----------



## vtcnc

Homemade wire wheel and buffer stand with 1/2 hp Dayton motor. $20 






Nice cast iron stand with stone and drill arbor with Jacobs drill chuck and 1/2hp Hercules motor. $20








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Nogoingback

Picked up a Swiss made Brown and Sharpe 1" micrometer for 25 bucks on ebay.  No scratches or initials, looks barely used, smooth as silk.


----------



## Brento

That thing is beautiful.


----------



## Nogoingback

Thanks.  I've been looking for a nice one for quite a while.


----------



## rwm

Love the mahogany case!
R


----------



## Brento

I would like to pick up a micrometer for my home i just dont have the moolah for one. Same with an anvil mic. But actual materials was more important.


----------



## Nogoingback

There are deals out there if you can wait.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited the tool market, i vent very early to miss the warm weather. First thing i bought was this cast iron valve wheel, i like the look and condition, second thing i found was this bench grinder stone dressing tool, i already have couple tools like this but for price i got it as a spare. And last thing i bought was this walter adjustable wrench, my first adjustable wrench. All in all not bad for sunday.


----------



## Cadillac

Did you say “first adjustable wrench”. Guess you didn’t get a tool kit when you were a kid. Ive got a adjustable like a Swiss Army knife. Handle tool to have in emergency.


----------



## GoceKU

Yes sir, my first adjustable wrench, to be honest, i've never like them, they seem to slip and round off bolts a lot. I bought it mostly because it fits the odd size square bolt.


----------



## Cooter Brown

a


GoceKU said:


> . First thing i bought was this cast iron valve wheel, i like the look and condition
> View attachment 273529



This is a sillcocks key, its for turning the water valves that you see on the outside of commercial buildings.


----------



## Cadillac

GoceKU said:


> Yes sir, my first adjustable wrench, to be honest, i've never like them, they seem to slip and round off bolts a lot. I bought it mostly because it fits the odd size square bolt.


Yeah they arnt the go too tool but are great for  a one all when you don’t have what you need. If you want precise get one of these! It goes to a tenth


----------



## Brento

Cadillac said:


> Yeah they arnt the go too tool but are great for  a one all when you don’t have what you need. If you want precise get one of these! It goes to a tenth
> View attachment 273546


Ive got to get me one of those!


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Bought some 12L14 from a shady guy wearing a trench coat.  I was just walking by and he said. Do you need any 12L14?


----------



## Cadillac

MAKEITOUTOFWOOD said:


> Bought some 12L14 from a shady guy wearing a trench coat.  I was just walking by and he said. Do you need any 12L14?



Watch out for the fakes they’re hard to tell the difference.


----------



## GoceKU

I've got this week off work, so i visited couple machinery dealers in next city over, i'm looking for a small to medium sized mill for my shop. Looked at couple of machines, couple of mills and two shapers, both from private sellers and dealers but all were junk or overpriced, in between i also looked at tools they had for sale and found this tachometer from 40rpm to 50000rpm made in germany, i've come across couple of them but all the others had broken crystal or cheap feel, this one is definitely the best i've seen but is missing its accessories which doesn't bother me, as all other i've seen rubbers are gone or dry rotted so i'll make or buy new ends as i need them. Other thing i bought is this big HSS lathe cutter, it has a good ground on it and plenty of material to spare, nice addition to the shop but too much time for noting on the machinery front.


----------



## GoceKU

A person should not leave me any free time, i visited one more importer, this one imports absolutely everything from germany and italy, but he only had two mills and both are robbed of their main parts one was missing the work table and motor. Other has no gears in its gearbox, absolutely worthless. As always i ask any tooling for sale. He had very little but i did pick out this stone dressing tool, same tool like i bought sunday but smaller and in much better shape, the seller did not know what is for, other thing i bought is this heavy duty square wrench, this one is metric and was cheap. No mill for me today but i did get couple more leads to see couple more next few days.


----------



## GoceKU

You've all heard the saying when you're looking for something you can't found it and when you don't need it you'll found it, well today when buying some round stock at my local steel place a older guy ask me, you'll going to machine something out of that, i said sure. Then he said i've got some old lathe cutters in my truck maybe you can use them but they are big. So we walk out to his 51 feet semi and he got those out of his tool bag and said any chance you can use them, yep just my size, then he said that he use to have more and he sold them at a good price but no one would take those because of ther size, he made me a great deal basically pay one take them all, and i've been looking for round carbide tool holder i've even order twice from ebay and they never come, the make on them is Secodex-C made in sweden, i've never had any of ther tools but they look to be pretty good quality.


----------



## 682bear

Didn't exactly buy it... but I did pay for it...




That is the end of a 5 inch center punch... I kept it after the local garage pulled it out of my tire. It is in good usable condition except for the head, which was ground on an angle from being run against the pavement.

They saved the tire by putting a patch inside the tire... that cost me $20...

-Bear


----------



## GoceKU

Bear, at least you've got something worth some back (centre panch), couple of days ago i got a broken wheel bolt in my windscreen on the highway, thankfully it did not enter the cabin but it will cost me probably one more zero then you.


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Couple eBay scores.


----------



## JimDawson

Did a little Craigslist shopping over the last couple of days. 

Everything looks to be in new condition.
16N Jacobs chuck, needed a new drill chuck for my lathe
Albritch sensitive chuck, because I didn't have one 
123 blocks, can never have enough of these
Inch & metric thread pitch gages, they were cheap, couldn't turn them down.
2 Fowler digital indicators, 0.001, cheap, too good to pass up
0-1, 1-2, 2-3 SPI digital mics, fair prices, look unused.  Another addition to my collection.



And last but not least, a 30 inch Harbor Freight fan (new), because it's hot in the shop and my old fan died.


----------



## DiscoDan

I bought some of the 1/4" shank HF indexable cutters to use in my original lantern post holder. I wasn't expecting much but was greatly surprised by the result on some cold rolled steel.


----------



## Brento

Just now bought some 2"x3"x12" white delrin for 30$ not including shipping. Couldnt pass up that price. Sad i couldnt buy another bar.


----------



## DiscoDan

Brento said:


> Just now bought some 2"x3"x12" white delrin for 30$ not including shipping. Couldnt pass up that price. Sad i couldnt buy another bar.



What do you make from Delrin?


----------



## Brento

As of now nothing but i know it can be very handy to have.


----------



## Janderso

I purchased 2 pieces of equipment.
A Delta/Rockwell band saw and a Delta Rockwell belt sander.
This time, I purchased them from an online auction 30 miles from work!
I pick them up tomorrow. More pics to follow.
They are in pretty good shape. The saw will need a bit more elbow grease. I plan on cleaning up the band saw and selling it, (maybe) and I will keep the belt sander for sure.
Dang I love tools.
Image 950 is on my way home from the auction.
I feel like I got a fair deal. The saw was the property of the Chico Unified School District.


----------



## Brento

I have one more package coming on monday ill show you that later which also pertains to a post i made a few days ago however i picked up 2 carbide grade inserts for aluminum from shars along with a 8” caliper with a IP54 and a 0-1 mic. I wanted a nicer mic to have for work and bring one of my china mics home for the hobby. I trust my china mics still. They read good just dont have a mic home at home.


----------



## Cadillac

Went to the local flea market yesterday. Found a lady selling both of these items. A 2-3 tumco tenths mike, and a 1 3/4” unibit annular cutter brand new. The mike had the inspection cert still in the box vintage 1955. Love buying from people that don’t know values. 5 bucks a pc. Very happy


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Picked up this nice Slocomb transfer punch on the Bay for small money. Another tool for the box.


----------



## mmcmdl

Brento said:


> I have one more package coming on monday ill show you that later which also pertains to a post i made a few days ago however i picked up 2 carbide grade inserts for aluminum from shars along with a 8” caliper with a IP54 and a 0-1 mic. I wanted a nicer mic to have for work and bring one of my china mics home for the hobby. I trust my china mics still. They read good just dont have a mic home at home.




Hey Brent ! Dave here . Nice to hear that you are progressing along . I've been busy up at the NY property and down in SC as well . Soon as the weather lets me I hope to find more machinist time . Good to hear from you , maybe we can meet up in Oneonta again in the future .

Not machine related , but I did buy a new trailer and an F-250 Powerstroke diesel pickem up truck for moving stuff back and forth to the property .


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Got these vibration damping leveling feet for my mill. They have a one 1” stud.


----------



## Cadillac

More like deal of the month on Craigslist. Found this 10” bison chuck on cl. this morning. Luckily I was able to get to it before someone else jumped. It’s a forged steel chuck and was still in a oily wrap when I picked it up. Other than the wrap staining the metal from it sitting for who knows how long. The one thing I asked the P.O. was if the holes were there or someone put in and he said that’s how he bought and he thought were factory. Came with a d1-4 backplate too which is what my lathe is couldn’t have worked out any better. Price was less than a mounting hub from shars.



Also I e tried looking at bison catalog which is nice and detailed. I cannot find this specific model number. Idk if it’s just that old or what but if anyone has any tips. I’m just looking for the specs and numbers on it,curious.


----------



## hman

Major suckage detected.  Congrats!


----------



## GoceKU

Couple of days back i bought one more small generator, the seller disclose that only the pull start was busted, and was partly unbolted, look it over it look like never run and was able to get my finger under the pull start and turn the flywheel so is not seized when i got it home i pulled the pull start of a similar generator. Put little gas in it and fire up after couple of pills runs and makes power, second bigger thing i pick up was an Einhell chainsaw, smaller lower end chainsaw for around the yard, it was cheap for a reason, looks like someone has poured gas in the oil reservoir and oil in gas tank and all the fuel lines are disconnected this one will require some work to make it usable, i may post a thread of me fixing it if i need help or some one wants to see it.


----------



## ddickey

I think I got ripped off.


----------



## DiscoDan

Bought a Mitutoyo 0" - 1" micrometer. Dopey me didn't test it to see if it even turned. Only $10. Need to figure out how to take apart apart clean it up.


----------



## GreatOldOne

Ordered, but have to wait. Prusa Multi Material Upgrade Mk2.0 for my 3D printer.






November seems a long way off...


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Couple of eBay scores.


----------



## francist

Nice, I have the same speed indicator but with the rubber tip yet. I think though the life expectancy of the rubber is just about expired, it doesn't have a lot of "rubberiness" left to it.

-frank


----------



## jdedmon91

GoceKU said:


> You've all heard the saying when you're looking for something you can't found it and when you don't need it you'll found it, well today when buying some round stock at my local steel place a older guy ask me, you'll going to machine something out of that, i said sure. Then he said i've got some old lathe cutters in my truck maybe you can use them but they are big. So we walk out to his 51 feet semi and he got those out of his tool bag and said any chance you can use them, yep just my size, then he said that he use to have more and he sold them at a good price but no one would take those because of ther size, he made me a great deal basically pay one take them all, and i've been looking for round carbide tool holder i've even order twice from ebay and they never come, the make on them is Secodex-C made in sweden, i've never had any of ther tools but they look to be pretty good quality.
> View attachment 273705
> View attachment 273704



Don’t know what size lathe you have but those tools would be dovetailed and on my BXA holder. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jdedmon91

A set of inside micrometers came in today I purchased on EBay 
	

		
			
		

		
	





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mmcmdl

Looked at a so called machine shop to buy out today , not exactly what I expected though . More of a hobby shop with lots of different tooling . The previous owner has moved on and his wife wants it all gone . Little jet lathe , maybe a 9" . A mill/drill of some unknown maker . ( Taiwanese WMC I believe , lots of boxes filled with various tooling . Hmm ...........do I need it ? Nope . Do I want it ? Nope . Will I get it ? Of COURSE ! ( That's just the way the game's played ) !


----------



## Z2V

My latest eBay purchase, a Mitutoyo 1-2” and a 2-3” micrometer. Both in excellent condition.


----------



## wlburton

You never know what they're going to have in the tool area at my local Habitat for Humanity "Restore" outlet.  I'd been thinking I might need another tool box fairly soon, and what should I spot there but an 8-drawer Kennedy box with a riser--just the kind I'd been thinking of getting--marked at $30 and $20 respectively.  With a discount that they were currently running I got both for $42.67 including tax.  They're not pristine, but after a couple of hours of cleaning they're very nice.  Going to that store is like a treasure hunt!


----------



## ch2co

What a find, you lucky son of a gun!
Congrats!


----------



## Cadillac

A nice starrett no.98 level. Another cl find. Guy had bought to level his pool table.  Must be pretty serious? Either way for 40 bucks I couldn’t pass it up. I already have a 8” but now I won’t have to move them to level anything. He threw in this mystery mic. Pin at end moves with anvil. Didn’t have a clue and he had no use for it. I figured I’d make a carriage stop or something out of it.


----------



## Cadillac

I figured out what the mystery mic is. It’s a canning lid mic. Now I can sleep


----------



## Cadillac

Hit the local flea market today with the boy. Nothing to exciting acouple of carbide lathe tools “carboloy”. Then some nice tapered files buck a pc. For some reason I have a fetish from files.


----------



## Brento

Yea i would like to pick up a few files as well. I wanna get some to rotate around like people say


----------



## Aukai

Well I bought an Ellis 1100 band saw with free shipping, it says "free shipping United States", everyone says Hawaii is part the United States. Let's see how this goes. LOL


----------



## JimDawson

Did a little Harbor Freight shopping today.  I had a couple of 25% off coupons and 20% off coupons.

So I used the 25% off for one set of cobalt drills, and sent my son in with the other 25% off to get the other set. So $78.74 each.  A couple more sets to add to my collection.

Then I used a 20% off coupon for a shim punch set, 39.99-8.00 =$31.99.  This set is not the highest quality, and they use acrylic rather than polycarbonate for the guide plate, and there is too much clearance in the plastic.  On the other hand, it didn't cost $345 as the Precision Brand does.  I have lots of polycarbonate on the shelf so I'll just make a proper cover plate.  All I really need it for right now is to punch eight 5/16 holes in some 0.003 shim stock so if it gets me through that I'll be happy.

The rollers are for a project I'm working on right now, it was cheaper to buy a couple of roller stands from HF and use the rollers than to buy rollers from McMaster and pay shipping.

And last is the little saw blades, I use those for slitting saws on the mill.  A lot less money than buying slitting saws from a tool vendor.


----------



## Z2V

I got busy with life and let my coupons go to waste. Good haul there @JimDawson


----------



## Aukai

Well at 2 PM Hawaii time I was informed that my paypal account was refunded, and that even if I sent it to the west coast that Ellis is 6-10 weeks back ordered. Can't say I was surprised, oh well.....


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Aukai said:


> Well at 2 PM Hawaii time I was informed that my paypal account was refunded, and that even if I sent it to the west coast that Ellis is 6-10 weeks back ordered. Can't say I was surprised, oh well.....



DAMN!


----------



## The_Apprentice

Technically I picked this up last week at Harbor Freight, but who's counting...


----------



## vtcnc

Today is my birthday - and my wife told me to go pick my present out...the CL picture is a little dark - but I found this photo on the internet.



$100! With a working motor and everything functioning...picking it up next week.



Update: just picked it up this morning. It works! (video link)


----------



## Nogoingback

The_Apprentice said:


> Technically I picked this up last week at Harbor Freight, but who's counting...
> 
> View attachment 275048



You bought a cardboard box from Harbor Freight?  
If there's something in the box, we'll need a picture of that you know...


----------



## Janderso

I picked up the 11 amp HF 4 1/2 angle grinder. Dang $89. I already have 2 but they sure are handy when you don't have to go back and forth with different cut-off, grinder, wire wheel, etc...


----------



## Cadillac

Janderso said:


> I picked up the 11 amp HF 4 1/2 angle grinder. Dang $89. I already have 2 but they sure are handy when you don't have to go back and forth with different cut-off, grinder, wire wheel, etc...



Idk if you have a menards by you but i bought these last year and they are great. So great I bought two more about a month ago.  


I’m not a fan of hf for anything that’s gonna last. If they give you “spare” brushes that’s a big indicator of garbage.  I’d be interested to get your review after six months of use. Not knocking it at all just  you can get two for that price  and Bosch has never let me down and built very well.


----------



## DiscoDan

Bought a Brown & Sharpe caliper for $30 at an antique store.


----------



## Jake2465

My back alley dealer had the skittles and boy am I high!


----------



## Janderso

Cadillac said:


> Idk if you have a menards by you but i bought these last year and they are great. So great I bought two more about a month ago.
> View attachment 275074
> 
> I’m not a fan of hf for anything that’s gonna last. If they give you “spare” brushes that’s a big indicator of garbage.  I’d be interested to get your review after six months of use. Not knocking it at all just  you can get two for that price  and Bosch has never let me down and built very well.



There are plenty of choices when it comes to 4 1/2 “ angle grinders, that is for sure.
I have a Milwaukee and two HF, one 7 amp and the 11 amp.
The guys at work swear by the HF brand for this application.
The 4 amp is not included in the assessment.
If I have an issue with it, I’ll write back to say you were right


----------



## NCjeeper

I picked up this Landis bead roller at a swap meet over the weekend. I cant find any info on it checking Google, E-bay, and Vintage Machinery. It is cast and has a 6.5" throat. Tag says Landis Machine Company Saint Louis USA. Back tag has serial #C622. Under the gray paint is green. I am assuming that was the factory color. Anybody have one like this or seen one like this? Trying to date it and maybe locate some more dies for it.


----------



## Z2V

Metabo is my brand of choice for an angle grinder.


----------



## GoceKU

Last couple of weeks i've changed jobs so i've been much more busy but i found time to visit my local flea market. I did a quick pass and almost didn't bought anything, but at the end of the last row i came upon new vender he had those two electric motors and couple of impact drills one of which was this HILTI te17 wich i bought it was resably priced and not worn out, a also bought both electric motors one looks to be pretty old and has some kind of flat belt pulley and is 2,1hp three phase at 1400rpm, the other motor is newer in age but same specs and never been used, the electric motors also wore at a good price. I've very satisfied, HILTI tools are regarded to be the highest quality tools around here also the electric motors are in excellent condition, good trip all around.


----------



## killswitch505

Found these little gem going through a junk pile at work


----------



## ch2co

Man, don’t you just hate it when you find junk like that just lying around?
I really feel sorry for you.


----------



## Cadillac

Aw man today is a good day. I picked up the stuff I bought from Friday’s auction. I’ve been more on the inspection tool kick and specialty stuff. First is a baldor variable speed motor for the suburban master grind I got at the last auction. This completes that setup which is awesome. 


Then I got some pallets two different sizes then two inspection plates one ground one cast 45 bucks. Can’t buy the material for that. 


Got some gauge block sets. All brown and sharp and one do-all set. Each set is missing at least one block but that’s okay. I’ve been after some but they can be very pricey. These are all grade A and I paid under fifty for each set except the large set was 60. 


Then some gauges .0001 gauges all brand new. The long travel one I plan to use for a secondary measurement on my surface grinder. Seriously 5&10 bucks each. The starrett was 25


Some mics the starrett cost me 75 but whoever had the battery in backwards wasn’t working. I put new battery in the right way and it worked. Looks like brand new. My first digital mic. Then a lufkin 4-5 didn’t have 10 bucks. 


Depth gauge and precision magnetic square still had the wax covering. The square was 30 bucks unreal!


Nice brown and sharpe height gauge


Nice little compound jig for grinding. At least that’s my intentions was only 15 bucks. These other things came with it which turns out to be  sopko washers, nuts, pullers and four hubs. Bad thing is three of the hubs are RH which my grinder needs LH. For the price I’ll take it. 



That’s what I had bought but once there I asked if anyone had bought the wall of grinding wheels for 50 bucks. The owner of the place said NO and we walked over there. He said grabbed whatever you want 20 bucks. I said hell yeah. Got about 50-60 wheels. Profiles,cut-offs, ones for my tool grinder all kinds I think I’m set for awhile
	

		
			
		

		
	



And to top off this awesome deal. When I paid the bill to the owner guy he didn’t even charge me the 18% auction charge which was on the invoice they sent me. 
 After talking with the owner he said the place closed due to his father being 95 and no longer wants the company so he sold it son didn’t want any part of it. 
 Sorry such a long post was just a crazy deal and my wife doesn’t care one bit about all my stuff. Had to tell somebody!She’s just takes everything made and fixed for granted and says you sure spend a lot of time in the garage.  I’m addicted it’s a disease


----------



## Z2V

That’s a nice haul you made there. Congrats


----------



## Cadillac

Yeah definately a good haul. Found enough room amazingly for storage. I think I should be good to get me through winter.


----------



## MozamPete

A couple of auction wins collected yesterday:

Set of Lushington internal diameter gauges, 3-12.5mm range


A couple of angle plates


Some large files


An old AVO multimeter and Megger insulation tester






(just cant seem to get the pictures to go the right way around today)


----------



## francist

MozamPete said:


> Set of Lushington internal diameter gauges, 3-12.5mm range



Lushington, interesting. I've not run into that name in tools before, and we see a fair amount of UK stuff here. The quality looks to be quite nice.

-frank


----------



## MozamPete

francist said:


> Lushington, interesting. I've not run into that name in tools before, and we see a fair amount of UK stuff here. The quality looks to be quite nice.
> 
> -frank


I'd not heard of them before either - but the name is on the case and on each gauge so they were the manufacturer.  Also on each gauge is "Pat.No. 569225".


----------



## tedg18

Hi first post. Didn't really buy it a friend gave it to me after i put in a new ceiling at his shop. Combination vernier caliper and hieght guage, I thought it was kinda cool. Its made by Schweitzer in Germany. I
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 don't know anything about Schweitzer, if any of ya'll have any info on it let me know. thanks have a good one


----------



## Cooter Brown




----------



## Cadillac

I gotta ask what is the tool in the first picture? It must be big it makes your hands look small.


Cooter Brown said:


> View attachment 275542
> View attachment 275543


s th


----------



## Cooter Brown

Cadillac said:


> I gotta ask what is the tool in the first picture? It must be big it makes your hands look small.
> 
> s th




That is a large Micrometer Head 0-2" it reads .0001" directly and can be read in both directions....... Mitutoyo 152-388A.....


----------



## Cooter Brown

I just picked up a Jones & Lamson Optical comparator....


----------



## ch2co

Back in the VERY distant past, I used of those a couple of times to verify that the machinist who made the parts I needed correctly. Today my digital calipers are quite sufficient in my home shop.  Neat devices. Congrats!


----------



## Janderso

I bought an old Delta/Rockwell 6" Belt Sander.There was a "Chico Unified School District" sticker on it. I bought it at an auction along with the band saw. I am selling the saw but I am keeping this belt sander.
The first time I plugged it in the breaker kicked. I replaced the upper drum bearings with quality McMaster Carr, It runs great now. Cleans up edges cut on the band saw very nice. Fast too. I love it.


----------



## killswitch505

Chambered a 280AI last week Kinda  wish I had it last week my buddy is gonna reap the reward


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Bought a VFD for my Fray mill. Should be in service soon.


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Couple eBay scores. First 3 brand new Brown & Sharpe #7 taper end mills. 5/8 diameter 2-1/2 cutting length. My gray mill has the #7 B&S taper. Second is a brand new MG depth mic.


----------



## Cooter Brown

I found a Thor air grinder!!! This is my favorite pneumatic tool company..... $30


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

I got what I believe was a big score. From off the auction site. $120 delivered for everything. How did I do?


----------



## GoceKU

MAKEITOUTOFWOOD said:


> I got what I believe was a big score. From off the auction site. $120 delivered for everything. How did I do?



You've brought many hand tools in this lot, couple of measuring tools, if the tools maker is good quality is probably worth it.


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

GoceKU said:


> You've brought many hand tools in this lot, couple of measuring tools, if the tools maker is good quality is probably worth it.



The total value fare exceeds what I paid. Thanks


----------



## Janderso

Hypertherm Powermax 30 XP Plasma Cutter.
I have been looking at these for a while now. I have to assume there is a difference between a $300 plasma cutter and a $1,400 one.
I bought a good one. And I am very happy about that. Made in the USA!.


----------



## ThunderDog

Went to one the best selection of machinist tools in a long time, but the guy wanted top dollar.  I don't think I got any kind of deal, but here is what I brought home.


----------



## magicniner

ER Collet Chucks on straight shanks, NOS, £20 each. ER25 on 25mm shank, ER32 on 32mm shank
I always call in at TR Tooling in Sheffield as they visit a lot of auctions and regularly have new and used interesting shiny things on the shelf, yesterday was my lucky day as these were exactly what I'd been wanting (but didn't know it) for some time, the internal depth stop on the ER25 has up to 5" from the collet face, ideal for speeding up one of my regular jobs. ;-)


----------



## Doubleeboy

Hypertherm Powermax 45 and HTP 2400 Mig.  Guess that shoots the tool budget for a good long while.  Should make doing fab work around the farm a lot easier and fun.  Got the Mig right before the price increase, so that was nice.  HTP is an awesome company,  I sent them an email question hoping to hear back within a day or 2.  Five minutes later president of company is on the phone wanting to walk me thru my set up question.  That is pretty awesome customer service in my book.  Not  to sound like a shill for HTP, I have no interest in company, but these guys have repair parts and consumables for about any welder that has been made in recent history.  I know of no other company that does what they do for welder parts, its pretty amazing really.

Never heard much of anything but praise for Hypertherm, so that one was a no brainer.


----------



## DiscoDan

Parker 63 1/2 vise, thread pitch gauge and tap reference manual. Total outlay $53.


----------



## NCjeeper

I out grew my old box set up so I decided to up my game and get a nice one to last me forever. Its super sonic blue. One of their new colors.


----------



## Janderso

That is one fine tool box!
You can't do better.


----------



## NCjeeper

Thanks Janderso. It has been on my bucket list for 20 years. Couldn't afford or justify one until now. My dealer gave me an incredible deal too.


----------



## Cooter Brown

Janderso said:


> Hypertherm Powermax 30 XP Plasma Cutter.
> I have been looking at these for a while now. I have to assume there is a difference between a $300 plasma cutter and a $1,400 one.
> I bought a good one. And I am very happy about that. Made in the USA!.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 276037



Take it back and get the power max 30 air. I have one it's the best plasma cutter I've ever used. It has a built-in air compressor.


----------



## Doubleeboy

Cooter Brown said:


> Take it back and get the power max 30 air. I have one it's the best plasma cutter I've ever used. It has a built-in air compressor.



If I had wanted a 30 amp plasma I would have bought one.  I have no regrets in buying the Powermax 45.


----------



## Janderso

Cooter Brown said:


> Take it back and get the power max 30 air. I have one it's the best plasma cutter I've ever used. It has a built-in air compressor.


I don't need a built in air compressor. It's nice to know you approve of the product though 
Any time I will use it I will be at the shop.
If in the mobil repair business I can see having a built in air compressor would be sweet


----------



## Cooter Brown

Finally.....


----------



## BGHansen

Cooter Brown said:


> Finally.....
> View attachment 276487
> 
> View attachment 276488


Always loved the name on those Greenlee sets.  Wonder why they didn't have Joe Frazier or George Foreman advertise the "knockout punch".

Bruce


----------



## rdean

Went to a pawn shop yesterday as the boss wanted to see what one was like.  She said she had never been in a pawn shop.
I got these two items for $10 out the door.




Spent a little time today cleaning it up and calibrating.







Starrett 6" level
Did I do alright?

Ray


----------



## pstemari

You suck! 

Sweet deal on that Starrett level.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## NCjeeper

Yes you did. Good score.


----------



## Buffalo21

Doubleeboy said:


> Never heard much of anything but praise for Hypertherm, so that one was a no brainer.




I have 4 of the Hyperthermia plasma cutters, a PM30, a PM45XP, a PM65 and a PM85. In the boiler repair business we do, nothing has work as well or lasted as long as the Hypertherms. I keep the PM30 in the service van and the rest are either in the shop or out on jobs. One of the nice features is that the PM45XP, the PM65 and PM85, use a good deal of common consumables, electrodes, shields, swirl rings, etc, only the nozzle vary, based on amperage.


----------



## Janderso

$10 for a Starret precision level, you do suck.


----------



## NCjeeper

I picked up this dividing head, plates, and tailstock. It has a 5" Cushman chuck on it. $200 bucks.


----------



## Janderso

You did VERY WELL


----------



## NCjeeper

I thought it was a good buy.


----------



## killswitch505

Yeah man that’s a heck of a score!!!!! Congrats


----------



## Janderso

I picked up a Dayton, 2" Precision Toolmaker's Screwless Vise.
I must say, I am very happy with the fit and finish. I haven't checked it on my surface plate yet but it was clean, not stinky with gritty used oil. The smooth operation and lock-up are great.
I paid less than you would think.


----------



## hman

Used or new?  In either case, it looks absolutely pristine.
Now just for fun, check post #10 in https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/screwless-precision-vises.55048/#post-455018
-or- post #22 in https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/mill-vise-opinions.37171/#post-319154
I show how to make that kind of vise easier to use.  Enjoy!


----------



## jdedmon91

I have a just released a video containing what I picked up this week 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Esmith41

I am just starting out in the machining world. I picked up a 13” SB lathe and a Jet JVM 836 mill. I finally just paid off the 2 pieces of equipment and decieded to buy my first measuring tool. I bought a Starret 0-1 mic from a person from my home town in NY. I sent him a check and he is getting it out in the mail tomorrow. 
  So, today I stopped by an older friends house on my lunch break for a visit and mentioned I bought a mic. He said come out to the shop and opened a drawer in his tool box and said go ahead and have these I will never use them. What a great guy!
	

		
			
		

		
	



Thanks, Eric


----------



## ddickey

Was looking around for a CTGP tool holder and found one on Ebay for $18. A Widia. Yes that right. Immediataly bought it and went back to buy more. Well you can see here. Will be interesting if I recieve it or not.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...teel,+20mm+Square+Shank,+Right,+125mm+Length+


----------



## roadie33

Must have been a typo. Now it lists for $108


----------



## ddickey

Yep. It says delivery on Monday. I'll let y'all know.


----------



## ddickey

Oops. I meant to Amazon not eBay.


----------



## Reddinr

Bought this to use around the shop.  About $18-35 depending on enclosure and what is in the kit.  Quite amazing for that cost.  It isn't fast (1 MHz.) and lacks many features but for shop use for troubleshooting cnc/control signals it can work well I think.  Plus, with an isolated power supply that powers it up, it can look at floating signals without too much worry of shorting anything out with the ground lead.  The signal shown is 60 Hz. noise picked up by touching the probe (just like any scope).  Purchased from Ebay.


----------



## hman

Fascinating!  I was interested enough in your photo to look up the kit.  For others who might be interested ...
https://jyetech.com/Products/LcdScope/e138mini.php


----------



## GoceKU

It's been couple of weeks since i've had the weekend off, so first thing i did is to go to the local flea/tool market. I found and bought couple of square head wrenches, a 10mm, 12mm and the speed handle is 14mm also bought this MT1 to b16 chuck taper little surface rust but should clean up fine. There was a new vender there selling car parts i bought couple of oil filters from him. And last things i bought wore two old UPS units, one is 12v to 220v other is a beast close to 30lbs, 24v to 220v, i often use them as power inverter around cars and trucks, not a bad trip, i've also got leads to visit some old machines for sale during the week.


----------



## GoceKU

Well today i officially found the most expensive machinery seller, this person needs to take two zeros from the end of the price to be in reality. He had also some machinist tools also overpriced, but other tools like mechanic and air tools reasonably priced, so i managed to find this waterproof hanging light with thick extension cord going thru it, i plan to put it above the work bench in my machine shop, i also got this old air wrench, i've broken couple wrenches like this so it will get used and last thing i bought was this Mitachi air grinder, all of the things i bought today need cleanup and some repairs but at the prices bought them still a good deal.


----------



## Janderso

Don't laugh, I purchased a 4MT dead center for my lathe.
I am making an effort toward accuracy. By eliminating a chuck, you know the drill.
I purchased it from Shars,
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 and it has been inspected!!
So, I got that going for me.


----------



## ddickey

I tried that with mine, an MT5. Stuck out so much couldn't use a dog.


----------



## Janderso

I'll give it a shot, I may be in the same boat.
Custom dog?


----------



## ddickey

Perhaps.


----------



## Ianagos

Bought a granite straight edge and angle block.


----------



## Kenny G

So I live in a machining wast land and am at the best a novice machinist.About 2 years ago I heard about a guy that had some machining tools etc for sale. I was just barely into this as a hobby and really didn't know what I needed but I wound up buying about $100 worth of things got a good deal but not a great one. 
 A few weeks ago I called and asked if he still had anything left he basically had everything left from his dads tooling, he had been a machinist for Lockheed Martin I think. I looked at what was left and decided that I needed to rescue it plus I really wanted some of it here are some pics of the hoard 
I think I made out pretty well some is so-so and others I'll leave up to you Paid as total of $275.

3 Teclock .001-1"
1 Peacock 2" .001
1 Federal  .0001
1  Interapid .0005 TDI
1  Alina         .005   TDI


 
 1  Mitutoyo
 1  Mauser
     1  Tesa   ( all 6")                    

 

   2 Mitutoyo 2-3 and 3-4
    1 Tubular Co. 4-5


 
Lufkin Depth gauge




Sine Bar 6" (may be user made)
V blocks only fair condition
Rover angle plate set
angle block (user made?)




Peacock 12" caliper



Dietzgen drafting set



 Albrecht 1/2 key-less chuck
 Rohiti 1/4         "            "
 slitting saw arbors ( actually there are 3)
 Criterion Boring head 2"
 Fly cutter 2 1/4" (maybe user made)




2 sets of parallels
1 B&S 1/2"-3/8"-1/4"




Most are in good to excellent condition. There is one bummer though I need a 1-2 micrometer and that one wasn't there.


----------



## Janderso

Sir, with all due respect, you suck.


----------



## hman

That's one SCREAMIN' deal!  Congrats!


----------



## Aukai

That is a total wow...


----------



## Aukai

Well with a heads up on an Ebay deal I got from ddickey here(thank you!!!), I got a deal on an ETM brand ER 40 collet and chuck set for 135 bucks plus shipping. I also bought an D1-4 ER40 collet chuck so I can use it on the lathe as well.


----------



## Cadillac

That looks like a screamin deal there Kenny. Looks like you got some good stuff enjoy.


----------



## Cooter Brown

Made a stop at my favorite store today picked up everything you see in this cart for free


----------



## Cooter Brown

Just picked up a heat treat furnace 2100 degrees F Max temp $400. I got this from the same place as the free cart above.....^


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by a local hardware store and bought this long concrete drill, on the way back stopped by a local machinery seller, no new machines but he clean up the place little and i find and bought this depth micrometer its a big one 500mm, it has some rust stains but is still usable, unexpected but nice tool for the shop.


----------



## hman

Cooter Brown said:


> Made a stop at my favorite store today picked up everything you see in this kart for free


Wowsers!  That's SOME kinda neat store you got there!


----------



## Cooter Brown

Oops.....


----------



## mickri

I needed another small vise for my other work bench.  Saw this 5" inch vise at a garage sale.  Offered the seller $5 and he said I'll take $2.   For $2 how could I refuse?  It seems to work ok.  Needs a handle and I might make some new jaws for it.  Brand is duralast.  Don't know who makes it.


----------



## Dan_S

Various paraphernalia, so I can take another shot at rust bluing. I've really been wanting to add black-oxide to my finishing repertoire!


----------



## GoceKU

Well i broke rule number nine, (Never buy a LADA), my new job has me traveling once a week in the mountains near the serbian border and the mountain roads are extremely narrow and bumpy, my car is too big for them, in places i have both front and rear bumpers scrape at once because of the steep angle, so after talking to the locals i started looking at niva's for sale and bought the first one i looked at. This vehicle is a full on project, needs engine work, bodywork, rust repair, new interior, wiring, tires, and much more, but at the price is still a great deal because they keep their value. I'll be machining parts and making stuff to repair and improve this little russian 4x4.


----------



## ChrisAttebery

The chucks that came with my 13x40 weren't that great. The tailstock drill chuck was slipping and was only 1/2" when I really needed a 5/8". The 6" three jaw had .012" TIR. I decided that rather than screw around trying to make it right that I'd just order a couple new chucks from Shars. I've found that their quality is great for the prices they charge.

I was wary about using a keyless chuck on the tailstock, but it has been great and seems to grip better than the keyed chuck that came with the lathe.
5/8" KEYLESS DRILL CHUCK WITH MORSE TAPER 3 INTEGRAL SHANK TANG TYPE

I'm really happy with this 6" 3 jaw with integrated D1-4 mount. Mine has .0015" TIR. I've never had a chuck with reversible/replaceable jaws and that will come in handy for some of the jobs I do.
6" 3 JAW SELF CENTERING SCROLL LATHE CHUCKS D1-4 REVERSIBLE JAWS


----------



## pds65

finally grown out of and frustrated at my Chinese 6" digital caliper (tho I like the digitalness haha). I bought a better stainless dial caliper that has metric and SAE deciding .001"/.02mm resolution is better for my needs now. still only spent $33 tho haha.
occasionally I look on FB groups for used namebrand indicator tools, but always afraid they might've been dropped so I pass


----------



## Radials

I purchased this Jet #3 arbor press today from a guitar builder who stated it spent its whole life pressing in guitar frets. I removed a nice slab of sapele wood that was mounted to the arbor press base before this picture. Looks to be in great shape and just in need of a cleaning.


----------



## jaredbeck

Finally bought a nice tap wrench, after years of using cheap imports.


----------



## Superburban

jaredbeck said:


> Finally bought a nice tap wrench, after years of using cheap imports.


That looks like a left handed wrench. Did you get the full set, or do you still have to hunt down a right handed wrench.


----------



## Esmith41

I got my monthly allowance yesterday and it was burning a hole in my pocket(as usual). So I jumped on the local For sale site and and an ad popped up I. The tool section for tool and die makers tools. No prices only 2 pics. So I called and asked if he would be around later and I told him I’d be there in the afternoon around dinner time, this was at noon. My lunch plans fell through so I called him back and asked if I could swing by. No problem see you in a bit. 30 minutes later I left with all this for $90.00. Not to mention I picked up my milling machine this weekend Jet 836-1. I started putting the tools away and realized my tool box is filling up quite nicely.
	

		
			
		

		
	















I forgot to mention, I got the Mill for Free. I just needed to get the lead screw straightened.


----------



## JimDawson

DAAAAMN!  That's quite a haul for $90.  And a free mill?  You get the coveted   award


----------



## roadie33

Yep, definitely, a very big  
	

		
			
		

		
	




Quite the haul for $90.
What did the lead screw straightening cost?


----------



## rwm

With great bargains, comes great responsibility.
Robert


----------



## Esmith41

I feel kinda guilty for everthing being only $90. The screw is still at the shop. The mill took a spill at some point in its life and the screw was pretty bent and it wasted the feed handle. I am not to sure it did not mess up anything else. I will get it unloaded this weekend and check the table in the axis’ I can. The motor does run and sounds good. I do not see any cracks anywhere.
Thanks Eric


----------



## Barncat

I actually bought these a couple days ago, but just got them home from the auction house. For $60 I bought this huge vise, four way tool post, a Miller arc welder, and a dust collector. Didn't take pictures of the dust collector or welder. I have no use for the tool post ( not even sure what it would fit ) and the vise is probably a 100lbs and too large for anything I would do. Does this mean I have a problem? The tool post rust is surface rust and not too bad and the welder needs a stinger and lead. But I am happy with my purchases.


----------



## pds65

really loving all you guys getting these killer bargains! gives me hope that I might find a treasure in the buy/sell FB groups. the other day, I was watching an auction on fleabay for a 4" rotary XY table for a small Atlas and it also could tilt 90deg. just what I need! 3 mins left it was $53. but ppl pounced on it and final price was over $200 lol


----------



## alloy

I bought this.


----------



## pontiac428

Every home shop deserves a Fadal VMC.  Nice score!


----------



## alloy

Thanks.  I got it for $2k.  I bought it from my work.  I've been running it for the last 8 years and we have only had a couple small problems with it.  It only has 7700 running hours on it.   Other than a couple of times in the past 8 years it's only run plastic.  I only remember twice it having coolant in it.   I'm running it right now and it's running great. Has ridged tapping,  a USB setup,  and a extra spindle inverter that goes with it. 

Geez, I hope I didn't just jinx it saying it's running great.


----------



## Ianagos

alloy said:


> I bought this.
> 
> View attachment 277866
> View attachment 277866



If I may ask how much did you pay?

I have one of those I may be putting up for sale soon.



Edit just saw your message. That’s a good deal.


----------



## alloy

Ianagos said:


> If I may ask how much did you pay?
> 
> I have one of those I may be putting up for sale soon.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit just saw your message. That’s a good deal.


Thanks. 

We have 3 Fadals we are getting rid of them to bring in 2 Brother high speed machines. Not sold on the Brothers at all.  Tiny 30 taper tools,  not very versitle from what they tell me.   

The Fadals are a 4020, 3016,and the vmc15. 

A tool dealer offered them $9k for all 3. I offered the $2k and got it.  The dealer says no one is interested in the 15.  He had it up for $3500 and no bites. 

I know this machine and even though it's 22 years old it's led an easy life. And with the USB and spare inverter I think it's a good buy. 

Now I just have to move it and get a phase converter to run it.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

nice! what about the Shizouka you and Jim refitted a while back?

Barncat - that looks like a shaper vise, from what I've seen. Hard to find and worth some coin to a shaper owner without one.


----------



## Ianagos

alloy said:


> Thanks.
> 
> We have 3 Fadals we are getting rid of them to bring in 2 Brother high speed machines. Not sold on the Brothers at all. Tiny 30 taper tools, not very versitle from what they tell me.
> 
> The Fadals are a 4020, 3016,and the vmc15.
> 
> A tool dealer offered them $9k for all 3. I offered the $2k and got it. The dealer says no one is interested in the 15. He had it up for $3500 and no bites.
> 
> I know this machine and even though it's 22 years old it's led an easy life. And with the USB and spare inverter I think it's a good buy.
> 
> Now I just have to move it and get a phase converter to run it.



Do they have the 4020 for sale I’d be interested in it.


----------



## alloy

Yes it is for sale, I posted it a few days ago on here, but you may be too late.  I think they made a deal with a machine tool dealer for the 4020 and 3016 for $9000.  That's a steal.    I can verify it's a good machine, it's my favorite one.  When I had my shop 15 years ago I had a 4020 and this one reminds me of it.  If you want it you will have to act fast, like tomorrow.   Send me a PM tonight and let me know.   If you want both of them make them a better offer.  They aren't pleased with the $9k offer at all.  Here is a pic of the 4020 from today.

I think the Shizouka will be up here soon.




Here is the 3016


----------



## Ianagos

alloy said:


> Yes it is for sale, I posted it a few days ago on here, but you may be too late. I think they made a deal with a machine tool dealer for the 4020 and 3016 for $9000. That's a steal. I can verify it's a good machine, it's my favorite one. When I had my shop 15 years ago I had a 4020 and this one reminds me of it. If you want it you will have to act fast, like tomorrow. Send me a PM tonight and let me know. If you want both of them make them a better offer. They aren't pleased with the $9k offer at all. Here is a pic of the 4020 from today.
> 
> I think the Shizouka will be up here soon.
> 
> View attachment 277882
> 
> 
> Here is the 3016
> 
> View attachment 277883



I really want both but I cannot afford it at the moment I may be able to pick up both depending on what we can work out.


----------



## Janderso

So I bought a box of drill chucks.
Jacob's and a Rohiti Supra keyless.
Two of them are MT2, I don't have a machine that takes MT2.
How accurate is it to use a sleeve? You know, from Mt2 to Mt3.
What are my options?
The other chucks are all Jacob's USA made in great condition.
The pics are the 2 in question.


----------



## roadie33

Just buy some MT3 shanks and replace them.


----------



## Janderso

roadie33 said:


> Just buy some MT3 shanks and replace them.



You can do that?


----------



## Cadillac

Yes if not integrated with chuck. Look carefully at backside of chuck. It will have a short taper that goes in chuck like a J.. You will need 2 little wedges to split arbor from chuck too. Nice buy.


----------



## Janderso

I'll be careful. Thanks Cadillac


----------



## Janderso

Don't i feel silly. It's a ROHM SUPRA 1/32 1/2" keyless chuck.
3 Jacobs and 1 Rohm
$150

1 # 36
1 # 3
1# 14N Heavy duty ball bearing
1 Rohm 1-13 JAC. KON. Nr. 33 German.
All in really good shape.
Oh, check out the Buck watching me this evening. They live on the property. (look really closely)


----------



## NCjeeper

Yep.


----------



## jdedmon91

Neat drill chucks. I have a Rhom keyless on my Lagun mill. I really like the Rhom chuck it is accurate and works well. My only complaint is you have to be careful and make sure your Taps are being tight as you can because when power tapping the taps don’t self tighten like a drill


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Martin W

I bought a MT 3 quick change collet with 3 different Morse Taper collets. This came with some taper shank drills.
Cheers
Martin


----------



## pds65

picked up a nice old set of calipers for $15 including shipping haha. I'm estimating these at 1950's to mid-60's. they are stamped THE L S STARRETT CO ATHOL, MASS USA
little scratchy, but entirely still good and you can bet I'll use them  I like the feel of the fine thread.


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Got a great deal on a noga off the auction site. 


Also from the bay a nice old B&S wiggler set


Got a bunch of parallels 


And a Fray branded boring head to go with my Fray mill


----------



## lordbeezer

Found this hand held tach under some brass in my reloading room.bought it 10-15 years ago but found it today


----------



## Janderso

I was struggling with my end mills moving or pulling/pushing inside the R8 collets.
These R8 Collets with set screws are perfect. In my recent experience, they are rock solid.
I bought 4 common sizes to facilitate my common end mills.
Highly recommended.


----------



## Bob Korves

Janderso said:


> I was struggling with my end mills moving or pulling/pushing inside the R8 collets.
> These R8 Collets with set screws are perfect. In my recent experience, they are rock solid.
> I bought 4 common sizes to facilitate my common end mills.
> Highly recommended.


That style of R8 end mill holder, often called Weldon tool holders after a prominent maker, are recommended for heavy and important work.  However, if you are having a lot of trouble with slipping collets, check out your drawbar to make sure that the threads not bottoming out in the collet or are galled and sticking in the collet.  Sometimes a flat washer or two (or other spacer) slipped on the drawbar before installing it in the spindle (to make it effectively shorter) is all that is needed to improve the tightening.  Worn out drawbars are a PITA, just replace them.  You can make one or buy one.  A quality one, properly made from good steel, will keep you happy a lot longer than purchasing a cheap import one.  If only one or two collets give you trouble, try chasing the threads in the collet.  Watch out, the collets are hardened.  A drawbar should screw in effortlessly with fingers only until it begins to tighten the collet.  If not, chase the drawbar threads.


----------



## Janderso

I bought a new one from H&W a while back. I don't know if it's a quality draw bar. I do think it threads in a bit too far.
I'm not having the problems I had that motivated me to replace it however.
Adding a washer is probably a prudent thing to do.
I like the confidence of the snug fit.


----------



## Bob Korves

Janderso said:


> I bought a new one from H&W a while back. I don't know if it's a quality draw bar. I do think it threads in a bit too far.
> I'm not having the problems I had that motivated me to replace it however.
> Adding a washer is probably a prudent thing to do.
> I like the confidence of the snug fit.


Generally, having the length of engaged threads at 1.5 times the thread diameter gets us about all the strength possible.  With something that gets tightened and loosened often like a drawbar, I try to do better than that.  With my drawbar, I am able to get almost two times the diameter of threads into the collets before they start binding up in the tapering threads of the collets.  1.75 times the 7/16" thread diameter of my drawbar to finger tight seemed to be the best compromise _for MY mill and MY collets_ and has been working quite well for me.


----------



## Janderso

How would I determine how far the draw bar is going into the collett?
Revolutions?
Hold the collett up into the receiver and measure the free amount up top?
Not sure how to accomplish it.


----------



## BGHansen

Maybe set the draw bar in place and just start to thread the collet.  Check the distance between the nose of the loose collet and the table.  Then shove up on the collet and measure the difference.  If you got 1" (for example), then remove the draw bar and thread it into the collet 1" if you can.  If you can't and you've got 1 1/2 diameters of thread engagement, do like Bob suggested and add some spacer washers.

Bruce


----------



## Janderso

I took advantage of Traver's, 4 hour Flash deal. I saved $100.
The micrometer is the coolant proof model.
I am stoked!


----------



## Superburban

Janderso said:


> How would I determine how far the draw bar is going into the collett?
> Revolutions?
> Hold the collett up into the receiver and measure the free amount up top?
> Not sure how to accomplish it.


Count the turns it takes from first engagement, until it snugs up.  Then measure the same number of threads on the drawbar (Or if you already know the TPI, divide the number of turns, by the TPI, and you have the distance the draw bar threads in the collet).


----------



## Reddinr

I bought three of these from All Electronics for a project and a spare.  Very nice low RPM gear motor.  Requires a 3 phase brushless driver.  Huge torque, about 3 degrees of free rotation (backlash) in the output shaft.  More details (drawings etc.) on their site.  They sell just the motor too.  Motor spec. is located in that listing.


----------



## Janderso

Welding turntable?
What you gonna do with it?
Cheap enough, that's for sure


----------



## Reddinr

Welding turntable is a great idea.  Maybe I'll use the spare for that some day.  Max speed is about 1 turn in 5 seconds.  That's probably plenty fast.
The other two are to drive two large turn-tables for display purposes (customer project).


----------



## alloy

Brought my new toy home today.  Went without a hitch.   It was scary having the mill on the truck, just looked so top heavy.  But I know most of the weight is down low, still took it very easy on the way home.

I'm going to try and sit the mill in place tomorrow. For now it's just inside the door.  The forklift I rented actually clears my door.   The only problem I see is I have a 2 post lift and I need to get over the cross member on the floor that has the hydraulics and cables in it. .  I've put some wood down to try and stair step over the cross member. And with the heavy column in the back, not sure how lifting it from the front will go.

If I can do this is saves me from having to skate it into place.

After I get it in place I need to come up with a phase converter. Looking at a 25 hp one.


----------



## Janderso

Oh, that’s a significant toy. Big league.
Congratulations


----------



## Ianagos

alloy said:


> Brought my new toy home today. Went without a hitch. It was scary having the mill on the truck, just looked so top heavy. But I know most of the weight is down low, still took it very easy on the way home.
> 
> I'm going to try and sit the mill in place tomorrow. For now it's just inside the door. The forklift I rented actually clears my door. The only problem I see is I have a 2 post lift and I need to get over the cross member on the floor that has the hydraulics and cables in it. . I've put some wood down to try and stair step over the cross member. And with the heavy column in the back, not sure how lifting it from the front will go.
> 
> If I can do this is saves me from having to skate it into place.
> 
> After I get it in place I need to come up with a phase converter. Looking at a 25 hp one.
> 
> 
> View attachment 278454
> 
> View attachment 278455
> 
> View attachment 278456



They are intended to be lifted from the front. I’m glad you got one of those machines. I really missed out on those other two I’m still ****** at myself for that one. I really need a 4020 or bigger machine but they are all gonna cost me at least 20k. 

Did the brother machines get installed? If so how are they so far?


----------



## alloy

Thanks, it will definitely expand my capabilities.  I'm trying to think of a product I can make and not be a job shop again.  I already have a full time job with good benefits so I just want side work to make a little cash and give me something to play with.  

They started moving everything yesterday, and when I got my mill this morning they didn't have the brother machines in place yet.  They were supposed to be in place by end of day today, and hooked up next week.  

The brothers are so totally different than what I'm used to.  I'm curiuos to see just how they work.  The 30 taper tool holders are so small compared to the cat 40 we have.  We don't expect to have both machines in full production for about 6 months.  The learning curve looks to be really steep.  Our programmer is going to have his hands full even getting one of them running.  I'm fairly happy I'm just going to be running the Fadals.  I'm told these things move incredibly fast and they is zero room for error.


----------



## Ianagos

alloy said:


> Thanks, it will definitely expand my capabilities. I'm trying to think of a product I can make and not be a job shop again. I already have a full time job with good benefits so I just want side work to make a little cash and give me something to play with.
> 
> They started moving everything yesterday, and when I got my mill this morning they didn't have the brother machines in place yet. They were supposed to be in place by end of day today, and hooked up next week.
> 
> The brothers are so totally different than what I'm used to. I'm curiuos to see just how they work. The 30 taper tool holders are so small compared to the cat 40 we have. We don't expect to have both machines in full production for about 6 months. The learning curve looks to be really steep. Our programmer is going to have his hands full even getting one of them running. I'm fairly happy I'm just going to be running the Fadals. I'm told these things move incredibly fast and they is zero room for error.



Yea they are fast. Let me know when Jason’s wants to get rid of the rest of the fadals.


----------



## GoceKU

This morning i went and visited couple of car breaker yards, not many of them have vehicles this old and because the lada nivas keep their prices not many are junked, so buying some interior and exterior trims, glass and interior plastic is impossible but i had some luck finding some from older fiat, lada being copy of fiat design they interchange also some interior parts from lada sedans will fit also so i bought some, it is surprising how cheap new and used parts are for them, anything that is not niva specific is euro cents.


----------



## alloy

Ianagos said:


> Yea they are fast. Let me know when Jason’s wants to get rid of the rest of the fadals.




I will let you know.  I know Jason told you 6 months but don't hold your breath on that. It's taken 8 years to get the Brothers.  We were also supposed to get a new building.


----------



## Ianagos

alloy said:


> I will let you know. I know Jason told you 6 months but don't hold your breath on that. It's taken 8 years to get the Brothers. We were also supposed to get a new building.



Haha yea I feel you. Well I’ll be going on a deployment in a bit more that 6 months so hopefully he either gets rid of them sooner or decides to wait a couple years.


----------



## vtcnc

Finally got the pellet stove installed in the shop. Got it from a friend of the family who was upgrading...I couldn’t find a “What Did You Get for Free Today?” thread! I’m in a T-shirt building my workbench for the Atlas of which the wood is from 8 foot long hardwood pallets (also free):







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hman

Great looking workbench!  And I'm sure the stove is an absolutely vital addition up North where you are.  Congrats on both.


----------



## vtcnc

hman said:


> Great looking workbench! And I'm sure the stove is an absolutely vital addition up North where you are. Congrats on both.



35F and rainy? No problem!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bretthl

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bison-7-17...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


----------



## GoceKU

Today i went tools shopping, lately i've been doing rust repair on vehicle and spent too much time and money on cutting discs, so i went looking for sheet metal shears, wanted an older set because i don't use it often and they seam to be build better, i found this rusty one on a flea market at a reasonable price, also there i bought this steering wheel it is from a 90's lada and is in better condition then the one i have on my Lada, and last thing i bought wore those crimping pliers for thicker cables, i plan on adding a removable winch on the little 4x4 so those will get some use on the relay panel. It turn out to be a very good day shopping.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i pass by two machinery dealers to check if they have something new or something worth buying, and first thing i bought was this bench grinder stone dresser, i have couple already but this one is new and really good quality, next tool i spotted was this 50-75mm micrometer, good condition, at first he was asking too much but he came down to a reasonable price. At the second dealer there was some mixed boxes in which i found those two towing hooks, rated at 10 t each, and two pulleys for towing, those should come in handy for the little 4x4 i'm working on. Good trip some nice tools for the machine shop and for the current project i'm fixing.


----------



## alloy

Ianagos said:


> Haha yea I feel you. Well I’ll be going on a deployment in a bit more that 6 months so hopefully he either gets rid of them sooner or decides to wait a couple years.



I talked to Jason today and told him you were interested in the 3016's.   At least he knows your interested and hopefully will keep you in mind.


----------



## Ianagos

alloy said:


> I talked to Jason today and told him you were interested in the 3016's. At least he knows your interested and hopefully will keep you in mind.



I appreciate it hopefully he’ll let me know when the time comes. I’m gonna be picking up a Fadal 4020 in a couple weeks I think. So hopefully that works out. Probably gonna cost me what both of those machine cost and the machine is very old.


----------



## alloy

I hope it works out for you too.  I wish you could have gotten the 4020 from my work, it's a rock.  In 8 years I don't ever remember anything going wrong with it other than a belt  replacement.  I keep a log of machine repairs and belts was it for that machine.


----------



## C-Bag

I went to a garage/shop sale over the weekend originally for some drawer cabinets. Ended up looking around and once again being astounded. The shop was in the industrial area and was a stop action studio(think Gumby) and they had TONS of what I call "shiny stuff". Things that are so cool(p and one off(and cheap especially compared to new) I just couldn't pass them up. I bought 3 metal drawer cabinets for $30ea. But they had all these custom fixtures made by Ron Dexter. 

The big black unit is some kind of platform for a camera that has DRO sensors in it along with a chain drive and worm gear reduction to move the platform incrementally. I think it mostly aluminum but still really heavy. $20! There's a really nicely machined aluminum V block, a small hardened steel V way, a linear bearing guide and mount, a cool little electrical drive and weird clamp. $30. I don't have specific projects for them yet, but they were too unique and cool to pass up! The whole place was chock full of weird and cool stuff.


----------



## pontiac428

Got a nice, complete set of keyway broaches from the auction site for $116 delivered. 
Also got a HF band saw. Don't know why I didn't get one sooner...









(from mobile)


----------



## GoceKU

Today i bought some second hand Van wheels for the little Niva, they have decent thread, and the rims are heavy duty 7mm thick, i'll need to make spacers or modify them to fit over the 98mm wheel hub on the Niva, good condition wheels for cheap, not bad.


----------



## alloy

They got one of the Brothers put together and running today.  Turns out I will be learning how to run it.   They tried teaching one of my coworkers but I overheard the guy doing the training telling my boss  that he has the IQ of a turnip.  So along with running 3 other machines I'm going to run and supervise the Brothers.    These things are very complicated.  There are some handy things it can do, but it's hard to find them when you are used to an older control.  

We had to make 3" risers for the vises, and we tried to touch the tools off the presetter but we are also having to make risers for them.

I'm gonna have my hands full from now on


----------



## Ianagos

alloy said:


> They got one of the Brothers put together and running today. Turns out I will be learning how to run it. They tried teaching one of my coworkers but I overheard the guy doing the training telling my boss that he has the IQ of a turnip. So along with running 3 other machines I'm going to run and supervise the Brothers. These things are very complicated. There are some handy things it can do, but it's hard to find them when you are used to an older control.
> 
> We had to make 3" risers for the vises, and we tried to touch the tools off the presetter but we are also having to make risers for them.
> 
> I'm gonna have my hands full from now on
> 
> View attachment 278813
> 
> View attachment 278814
> 
> View attachment 278815
> 
> View attachment 278816



Maybe they will grow on you. I hear good things about them.


----------



## Superburban

pontiac428 said:


> Got a nice, complete set of keyway broaches from the auction site for $116 delivered.
> Also got a HF band saw. Don't know why I didn't get one sooner...



I would have to double check, but I think I have that same set, along with a set for smaller size broaching. I got the, both from an auction a few years back. The big set was missing one bushing, that I was able to find one close enough on E-bay. Both sets got oiled, and put on a shelf. I just know, one of these days I will need one.


----------



## Superburban

Finally got a set of 3/4" boring bars that will fit my NMTB50 boring head.


----------



## darkzero

Got me a M18 blower & grinder. Never thought a cordless grinder could be any good & when I turned it on with no load I thought it was whatever. But after using it I'm impressed!


----------



## GoceKU

I've been needing couple small parts for the little Lada niva i'm repairing, so i vent scrap yard to scrap yard and bought all these small parts like, door handles, switches, light bulb sockets, Lada specific wire connectors, ground wires, engine mounts. Also pick this spare tire, this been off road toy i'll need spares. All those parts that i pick up today price up to couple hundred bucks new but i pay only 20$ for all of them, not bad.


----------



## GoceKU

Today after work i stopped by a flea market to look for some off road parts or accessories for the little Lada Niva i was looking for a towing winch but could not find one, but did found this controller, i plan to run wiring and connectors to both bumpers and have tow hitch on both bumpers. It was really cheap and come with a long cable and connector, good trip.


----------



## lordbeezer

Picked up a enco mill clamp set and a enco 4" swivel base mill vise.both used.2 new 60 degree cutters.50 for all.


----------



## MozamPete

Brown and Sharp Indicator and stand. The indicator is a bit stiff in its movement but I really brought it for the stand and accessories anyway.





It came with what is described in the catelogue as an "Angular base stop" and a "Plain base stop", can anyone give me some direction at to how they are used.


----------



## hman

I'm not able to figger out how the indicator base (second photo) would mate up with either of the stops.  Does it have a T-slot on the underside?

Anyway, I'll assume you can attach either of the stops under the base.  Now assume you want check something for parallel to a dovetail.  The dovetail stop has two round-end "fingers" that can align against the angle of the dovetail.  Slide the base along the dovetail, and the base will remain parallel to the angular face as it's slid along.

Likewise, the plain base stop can be placed to ride inside the T-slot of a mill table, with the flats against one side face of the slot, to check that something is parallel to the T-slot.

At least, that's how I interpret the descriptions in your last photo.  I don't have such a tool, and have never used one.


----------



## Manderioli

A local machine auction ended last week with many good tools. Was fortunate to acquire a Pratt & Whitney Supermicrometer G2100 model A for $100. 

Picked up the unit this morning and was surprised with the size and the weight. The tool is heavy (100lb). 

By end of the week, I will have Pratt & Whitney 1” round standards to set the micrometer propert before taking measurements on components ($100).


----------



## hman

That's quite the serious measuring tool!  Guess you got it for a dollar a pound


----------



## alloy

My motor for the phase converter came in.  It's big, never worked with a motor this large before.   Got it for $500 shipped and it's brand new.  25hp.

Starting to get excited, other than wiring it up this is the last thing I needed to get the Fadal running


----------



## Downwindtracker2

Sunday's fleamarket finds, three sockets, 1 1/4, 1 1/8, and 1 1/16 ", for the truck's tool box. Westward brand, Chinese I guess, Acklands-Granger  house brand, for a buck a piece. And the prize, 1/2" drive S-K metric socket set for $30 . The ratchet is a nice fine one, as I have coarse Proto and Gray ratchets, it will  be handy.


----------



## GoceKU

Last couple of weeks i've been looking to buy new tail light lenses for the little lada niva i'm fixing up, and finally i managed to found one and buy it, is the last new old stock left in my country, i did pay a premium for it but is a complete light with sockets, bulbs made back in 91 but i can't find one for the other side, is very strange, buying parts for a lada, parts that are never needed are available and incredibly cheap (cheaper than the raw materials) but some consumable parts are not available, very strange.


----------



## Nogoingback

Ordered directly from Old Blighty!


----------



## DiscoDan

Bought this stuff for $67 at the Real Mans Yard Sale north of Baltimore.


----------



## killswitch505

Not machine tools but the fedex guy stopped by


----------



## mmcmdl

Sweet ! What's a nice scope for a .338 Win mag ?


----------



## dlane

Nice eyewear


----------



## killswitch505

mmcmdl said:


> Sweet ! What's a nice scope for a .338 Win mag ?


Well I’m gonna suggest something smaller lol my high school graduation present was a 338 win mag my shoulder still hurts!!!!! If it’s a hunting rifle it’s hard the beat Leupold VX3.


----------



## mmcmdl

killswitch505 said:


> Well I’m gonna suggest something smaller lol my high school graduation present was a 338 win mag my shoulder still hurts!!!!! If it’s a hunting rifle it’s hard the beat Leupold VX3.



I just shoot it for fun . Don't hunt . It sits around the campfire with me up in the Adirondacks at night ! If something was to wonder into camp , I wanted to make sure I had something to do some serious damage to it ! I'm very near the original Remington plant in Illion NY , thats where the guns came from years back . And yes , it'll set ya back a bit . I made a few brakes but haven't had the chance to try them out .


----------



## GoceKU

Last two days my injured back has been acting up so i've stayed out of the garage, but today there is a big tool/ flea market so i decided to go and visit it. The weather was appealing but i did found couple of things. First was this lawn mower engine, it has compression and is complete so i bought it, then i've seen couple of Citroen filter i ask for price the vender said 10$ for the entire box, so i bought the entire box, it has couple of filters i can use on my french cars and the rest of the cv boots will be spares. Next few items i bought for the little Lada Niva, bought new fuel line, an used side indicator, couple of towing couplers, 3 sets of spark plugs and couple big wiring terminals, considering the bad weather i found and bought some useful and nice items for cheap.


----------



## uncle harry

It was yesterday, but I responded to a local Craig's listing and "scored" a GB hydraulic knockout set. 1/2 to 4 inch conduit sizes new old stock. I know it was never used because the cylinder was still wrapped and stapled shut in corrugated cardboard.  They list @ $1400 @ Menards. (A mid-west big box
similar to Lowe's etc).  I bought it for $300 delivered about a mile from home at a park and ride lot.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i was in junk yard neighborhood so i stopped by and looked thru, not much material to buy but i found those two pumps, one is electric power steering pump, other is a fuel barrel hand pump, they'll come in handy.


----------



## Cadillac

Today was good picked up my auction lots from Friday. Not a huge haul I've been a lot more picky running out of room to put the stuff. But can't pass up good deals. All had for 42 bucks. Box of slitting saws all brand new name brands smallest are .020 and go up to .125. All different flavors and diameters about thirty of them. And some nice carbide in the tubes. 


Then some arbors for my tool and cutter grinder. Idk what the big middle one is for it holds shell mills but it was in the box. 


Then a really nice looks to be in pristine shape aerospace 0-12 height gauge. I think I need to get instructions on this with the counters to the right of dial. You can zero each counter separately each has a arrow next to it for up and down. Overall real good day.


----------



## Downwindtracker2

When I hunt moose or elk, I use either a 338WM or a 338-06 . My 388WM is a Sako Finnbear, surprisingly enough, it's not to bad for recoil. Those Finnlanders knew what they were doing when they designed the stock.


----------



## DiscoDan

3/4 horse very heavy duty Black & Decker bench grinder $30
Wilton Cadet vise with issues  $20
6 lathe/machine handles $20
Roving can FREE with purchase!


----------



## DiscoDan

Guy also had some unknown collets and some horizontal mill cutters that have gotten wet and have surface rust. Any chance they could be saved? How would you de-rust them?


----------



## pontiac428

Collets and cutters can be chemically de-rusted or electrolytically cleaned.  Depending on the extent, the cutters may need sharpening after.  If the steel is still good, they can be saved.


----------



## GoceKU

For surface rust on tooling i've used white vinegar also some concentrated vinegar submerged the tooling in it for a day or two, it cleans rust extremely well, but if the tooling is deeply rusted may not be worth it.


----------



## DiscoDan

Thanks guys


----------



## Cadillac

Nice job on the vise dan. Disassemble and do the same in vinegar you will be impressed what a gallon of vinegar can do.


----------



## DiscoDan

Cadillac, it is definitely a nice vise. It was stuck but only took a little work with WD40 to free it up. The only bad part of the vise is that 3 of the 4 mounting ears are broken so I need to find a new one


----------



## HarryJM

55$ worth of hammers off CL's. Left to right heads down: solid copper, solid brass, ball peen where what I was looking for and bought the others just because of the low price.

The little short handle square hammer came in handy yesterday.


----------



## lordbeezer

Picked up a free beseler model 1812 shrink wrappings system with broken belt..heavy as hell.variable speed.oven..should be lots of good parts for making something else..


----------



## DiscoDan

Went back to my honey hole today and picked up a bunch of stuff...gear rack, assorted files, assorted collets, a huge Simplex machinist jack from the tool room at Bethlehem Steel, two sets of NOS replacement pistone for old flathead engines, a JH Williams machinist clamp, various pieces of stainless and aluminum scrap, assorted machine handles and a Craftsman multi groove pulley. I will be going back again soon for more. Much of this will be posted for sale soon.


----------



## BGHansen

Sold some Erector sets and parts on eBay, so had some money burning a hole in my pocket.  Time for some early Christmas shopping for me!  Picked up a couple of keyless chucks (1/32” – ½”) with 3MT arbors from All Industrial Tool.  These should speed up tool changes when swapping between center drills, drills and countersinks for some of my projects.  There were around $23 each shipped.




Some of my projects require relatively precise hole punching in sheet metal.  I typically make a guide block out of CRS or aluminum and oversize ream the holes for transfer punching to the blanks.  My transfer punch sets purchased 30 years ago is missing a few, so got another import set off eBay.  Paid about $12 including shipping.




Picked up an RPM meter/gauge for checking spindle speeds.  Not sure how it works inside, but you put one of the end-effectors on the spindle you want to measure and push a button.  The RPM needle starts moving up the scale and stops after a few seconds, then read the number.  I know, ancient technology when Hall Effect sensors and read outs give instantaneous RPM’s for under $15.  Got this one off eBay for $15 including shipping.




Picked up an incomplete set of counter bores made by 21st Century Manufacturing.  Think they’ll be pretty good, company’s web site is www.reamer.com.  I was a bit surprised to see they’re based out of South Dakota; I would not have expected a lot of manufacturing from that region.  I’ll probably replace the missing ones with imports.  I typed www.reamer.com into my browser but was redirected to www.alvordpok.com in PA.  Looks like the missing counter bores would cost more each than I paid for this set ($30).





Real impulse buy off eBay.  Picked up a Quill Master for $200 delivered off eBay.  These also had a small right angle attachment available (QRA) that unfortunately the seller didn’t have.  Don’t have a use for it right now, so it’ll go on the shelf until the need arises.  From what I’ve read these are used for small end mill work; has built in 50% speed increase to get the small end mills up to smoking hot RPM’s.  I’m always up for another project, see the QRA attachments going for $300 - $750 on eBay.  They never sell at that price, but that’s what seller’s ask.  So, if the need arises, I’ll probably adapt a Dremel right angle attachment.  This one came with a 3/16” collet.  I believe I read someplace they had a 1/8” collet too.  Might be a POTD to make a 1/8” collet, I have a lot of 1/8” shank end mills.






Lastly (for now . . .) is a Thermolyne 2025 muffle furnace.  This one takes 110V, heats up to 2000 F which can be maintained for 3 hours or 1800 F indefinitely.  The furnace chamber is about 4” x 4” x 9” deep.  I make a half-dozen or so punches and dies a year and flame hardened with an oxyacetylene torch, then temper with a Thermolyne hot plate.  Paid $200 from a CL listing for this one.  I’m curious how accurate the temp dial is on the front.  Most of the Thermolyne furnaces have a temp gauge and a separate pot for adjusting the temperature.  I bought this one because they’re graduated together.  I haven’t taken it up to 1500 F for hardening of tool steel, but noted it took about 15 minutes to get up to 500 F.  The chamber is a bit small, so no Bowie knife jobs with this one.  Probably another retirement project in a few years to make a larger furnace, there are a couple of really good threads here from members building their own.






Bruce


----------



## DiscoDan

Bruce, you just had to out-do me, didn't you??


----------



## DiscoDan

Here is a pic of the Simplex jack. It is marked BETH TOOL ROOM, which is the old Bethlehem Steel plant here in Baltimore.


----------



## BGHansen

DiscoDan said:


> Bruce, you just had to out-do me, didn't you??


Hi Dan,

Actually, I didn't shoot pictures of everything . . .

Best regards, Bruce


----------



## DiscoDan

Here is a quick pic of the box of horizontal cutters. From big to small.


----------



## Moper361

My little pickup for the Sunday morning car boot sale

3x Australian p&n tap wrenches
1x small machinists square
1x old drill bit sharpener
1x smallp&n die holder
3x new bastard files
1x fillet gauge set

All for 30 bucks AUD


----------



## GoceKU

Today my injured back is really bad, so i stayed out of the garage but did visited the tool/flea market and what i did not found there i continue shopping in part shops. First lot i bought was a set of 17" steel rims i got them very cheap the plan for them is spares for my daily driver, next thing i found was this very small 3 jaw chuck, beat up but still functions. Then i bought couple more towing couples and couple of round pipe rollers. Then i visited couple of parts store, bought a roll for hi temp solder, to fix the heater core if is leaking, also for the cooling system i bought couple of liters antifreeze concentrate, and lastly i bought two new sets of spark plug wires for the little Lada. Quick trip but got everything i needed to continue working on the little Niva, only loading and unloading those rims was a bit painful despite that good day.


----------



## Downwindtracker2

Today's fleamarket finds, I struck gold or more to the point stainless, 316L Swedish Stainless welding rod. One full plastic container , 8# of 3/32 and one full container  3# of 1/16. He threw in a couple of full 5.5# boxes of Air Liquide  Ultra-11 (6011) and 7014 as well. After Arctec, that my favourite brand. While the boxes are unopened, they look rough. I got this haul for $20  At another vender, a Proto 3/4" wrench for $2


----------



## Ulma Doctor

I got a small wrench today.
it was mixed in with a bunch of other treasures (read:JUNK) 




it's a 1/4" wrench
ain't it cute???


----------



## Downwindtracker2

Ignition ? Maybe bit small even for that.


----------



## Ianagos

Ulma Doctor said:


> I got a small wrench today.
> it was mixed in with a bunch of other treasures (read:JUNK)
> 
> View attachment 280907
> 
> 
> it's a 1/4" wrench
> ain't it cute???



Wow that is a huge lighter.


----------



## Moper361

Ulma Doctor said:


> I got a small wrench today.
> it was mixed in with a bunch of other treasures (read:JUNK)
> 
> View attachment 280907
> 
> 
> it's a 1/4" wrench
> ain't it cute???


That looks like an original Mechano set spanner to me and an Australian bic lighter


----------



## francist

I thought Meccano sets came with square nuts? At least mine did -- but that was a while ago.

-frank


----------



## Moper361

francist said:


> I thought Meccano sets came with square nuts? At least mine did -- but that was a while ago.
> 
> -frank


Possibly if it was a very very old mechano set im only 47 and think my first set at about 7 years of age was hex nuts


----------



## GoceKU

Last couple of days i've been looking for a new carburetor for the Little Niva i'm fixing, i've visited and phoned many parts store and junk yard, new ones are more then half price of the 4x4 and no one can guarantee if the used ones are any good and still want good money for them, so i went to my favorite junk yard he usually has VAG cars for parts but he happen to have one Lada sedan so i grabbed the carb and steering column, also it had a chromed shifter i took the entire shifter assembly, then i looked thru his storage buildings and found one more lada carb, both are with vacuum secondary, the one on my Niva is mechanical secondaries also bought couple more weber carburetors, now i'll need to clean all of them and peace one good one, i may try one of the weber on it to see if i can improve the throttle response, not a bad day and pretty cheap the weather is getting pretty cold and i'm happy not to be looking for a carburetor anymore.


----------



## Downwindtracker2

Nivas weren't bad little 4x4s. A funny story, with all the logging roads around here, when we hunt we will drive to area, check it out and move on. A couple of hunters had an accident and rolled their Niva down a hill. "I saw sky, then dirt, then sky, then dirt. "


----------



## GoceKU

Downwindtracker2 said:


> Nivas weren't bad little 4x4s. A funny story, with all the logging roads around here, when we hunt we will drive to area, check it out and move on. A couple of hunters had an accident and rolled their Niva down a hill. "I saw sky, then dirt, then sky, then dirt. "



It's a common thing, strange how little damage they sustain in a roll over, in the mountains here every niva has been on its side or upside down couple of times that is why they never have side mirrors, tough little thing.


----------



## BGHansen

More eBay purchases.  Bought another SDA laser center/edge finder for $50 (go for around $150 - $175 new).  They sell at least three versions:  Dot, Cross hair and Concentric Circles.  This one is the concentric circle version.  I wouldn't use it to set up the DRO on my mills' vises, but they make fast work of finding the center of a prick-punched hole or existing hole.  Just move the spindle up/down to put one of the projected circles on the hole or center dot on the prick-punched hole and you're there.  Down side is the accuracy isn't at my Blake co-ax for a hole or a pointed mechanical edge finder.  I've experimented a bit and am repeatable to 0.005" or better.  So, for a quick and dirty drill press type job on the mill, or finding a clearance hole that needs to be enlarged, they're my "go to" tool.








Also bought a 12V solenoid air valve.  Future project here for the mister coolant on the CNC Bridgeport.  I leave my air compressor regulator at max pressure and adjust the mister hose pressure through the mister's ball valve.  I currently shut the air off by popping the quick connect on the air line.  Getting really lazy in my old age, going to wire this in between an inline regulator and the mister.  It's a normally closed valve, so will make a switch box with a push button to turn the air on/off. 




Last for now is a gear checking gauge.  Should make quick work of checking the diametral pitch of gears.  Formula is (Number of teeth + 2)/diameter for diametral pitch, but this is quicker.  Yeah, impulse buy as I don't cut gears for a living.  I attached a photograph (not to scale) and a jpg of a scan which should be to scale in case members want to print a copy.  A photo might work for quick checking a gear.





Bruce


----------



## Cadillac

The beauty of this was I didn’t buy it. More like labor trading. I have a great friend that retired two years ago. He took on the hobby of old school hand striping. His wife says he wants to stripe everything. I had rebuilt a old cushman engine for a scooter that he is doing. Well I don’t take money from friends so he ends up stopping by yesterday with a present. 


I had bought a pallet of welding helmets some months back from a auction for 10 bucks. I gave him the helmets to stripe. I thought they were a great media to paint on and very sellable. This is his first helmet and I think he’s doing a great job for being self taught and a year or so in. I also pick up any old school wrenches which he does his magic on. 
	

		
			
		

		
	




I’m working on a way to display the wrenches “in use”.


----------



## roadie33

Those wrenches look to good now to even use.
I'd make a display case for them and give them to him for a Christmas present to show off his ability.


----------



## Aaron_W

My mother passed away in September so I've been dealing with 2 storage units of her stuff. I went to a local non-profit thrift store that supports a hospice to inquire on donating some of her belongings.

So as I'm talking with the lady about the donation procedure (times, wants / don't accepts etc), I happen to glance down in the glass counter display and I saw a slide rule complete with its box and protective sheath for $12 (I know probably too much). Since I don't think I've ever even seen a slide rule in person I had to have it.

Pickett all metal slide rule, claims "lifetime accuracy' but doesn't specify who's lifetime, and I'm pretty sure the original buyer is no longer with us so I guess they are off the hook if it isn't accurate...

Documents in the box are dated 1960. It appears to be aluminium, the box has some wear but the side rule itself is immaculate, not a scratch or ding on it.




Does anyone still use one of these? Do they do anything better than electronic calculators?

I figure it is mostly a novelty, but I'll be set when the zombies come and all the batteries are gone.


----------



## Bob Korves

I went through my high school drafting stuff some years ago, and one thing that was in there was my slide rule.  I took it out and did some quick calculations, just like I had used it last a month ago.  It was actually 1964 when I got it, and we used them a lot in those days.  I also have all my drafting equipment from high school and college, the newest of that would have been from the early 70's.  Still ready to use as needed, still know how...


----------



## hman

Slide rules are good for multiplying, dividing, proportions, squares/cubes and roots, trig functions, logs, etc.  They don't do addition or subtraction.  They're pretty quick, but are limited to about 3 significant figures of precision.  And you have to keep track of the decimal place.

That said, I have fond memories of the old slipstick, and I'm glad I started out with one.  Having to keep track of the decimal meant that you had to mentally do an approximate calculation, so as to know where the decimal would go.  This ability to do approximations is very valuable, even when using other methods of computation.  Contrast with a calculator - punch in a few numbers, get an answer, take it for granted.  It can be hard to detect a slipped finger or missed digit unless you have some idea of what the answer should be.  I've also seen lots of cases where someone inputs numbers with 3 or 4 significant figures and writes down all 10 or 12 digits of the displayed answer.

Anecdotally, one of my recollections from college (about the time the HP35, HP45 and TI50) is seeing an (obvious) engineering student with a calculator case on his hip.  Battery life was short in those days, so he had a slideruler on the other hip for backup


----------



## DHarris

Yep, still have my slide rule from college!  Used it in all of my engineering classes up till the mid-term of my Junior year (I was too cheap to spend the $410.00 for the "latest and greatest" HP calculator - that only did addition, subtraction, multiplication, and division!!!!).  Now I'm going to have to search around here to find that old beauty!  Thanks for the walk down memory lane!


----------



## Nogoingback

The first person I knew that owned one of those HP's was a friend who was an engineering major.
I remember there was a transition period when some folks had them and others couldn't afford them.  The question that arose was
regarding exams and whether it was fair to the slide rule crowd to write tests that were easier for the calculator owners.  Naturally,
that problem didn't last long.  Since I didn't do engineering, I didn't buy my first calculator until after I was out of school and they
were cheaper.  Finally, I was able to balance my check book!


----------



## BGHansen

I had an HP-55 and HP-67 in high school (HP-65 was the first programmable calculator with a card reader, HP-67 was the 2nd generation).  If you check eBay, they go for about the same price now as they did back in 1975-77.  Or, download an app to your phone for the same look if you're nostalgic or prefer the layout of your old college calculator.

Bruce


----------



## roadie33

Bought it Monday, Delivered today. 
Spent most of the day putting it together and making adjustments.
That cast iron top is Heavy.


----------



## BGHansen

Couple of additional eBay purchases.  First is a Boston gear tooth gauge.  Goes from 6 - 80 diametral pitch.  Paid $50.




I've been watching a Shars 06IRA60 boring bar set on eBay for years.  Just couldn't bring myself to spend $135 for a boring bar and 10 06IRA60 inserts.  Found an alternative.




Did a search for 06IRA60 and found a couple of listings from eBay seller "cngx2016" for a what looks like the same thing minus the case in the Shars offering.  These are $12 delivered for the boring bar and $16 delivered for the 10 inserts for one each.  Bought two sets so got a little discount on shipping or $26 each.  Yeah, don't plan on digging through the swarf to find one of these inserts if you drop it.  Same for the boring bar set screw.  These thread to a max depth of 1/2", minimum bore of 1/4", 16-48 tpi.






Thanks for looking.

Bruce


----------



## mmcmdl

Not a purchase , but I acquired a 9" South Bend lathe today . Needs a bit of polishing up and a gib , but none the less , it's a lathe and it was free !  We moved the Clausing Colchester in last night and the SB had to go .


----------



## BGHansen

Missed one.  Picked up a Fowler 0-1" tumbler-style micrometer for $12 including shipping.  Don't know why, but my preference are the tumbler style over the LCD digitals.

Bruce


----------



## hman

Batteries last longer.


----------



## mmcmdl

So after investigating a bit , this lathe looks to be a South Bend 9A with a undermount motor . I'll post pictures when it comes home . I'll be looking for info on it here I'm sure .


----------



## Janderso

My new to me Industro-Lite horizontal/vertical milling machine.
A gift from a friend.
I finally found some time to get to know this very capable mill.
I’ll make chips today.
Serial number 178


----------



## Janderso

I just ordered one of these.


----------



## ch2co

Sounds almost to good to be true.. I’ve always liked Miller products. 
 Be sure to let us know how it works


----------



## Ianagos

That miller looks like they copied the harbor freight. I guess there is a first for everything. My brother has the harbor freight look alike and it’s great. The stock settings are wonky and mostly useless but besides that it’s nice.


----------



## Janderso

After watching the videos on Miller’s new 220 AC/DC, I am more impressed than ever.
You can’t compare a HF product to Miller.


----------



## Downwindtracker2

I have a Hugong Wave 200 AC/DC TIG stick (think ESAB 186i)  and like the breed, is programmable, at this level they all are.. I wanted to do some stick and had to program my arc. What happened to the days when you flipped the switch and cranked the dial ? Sweet arc ,though. The Miller wisely saved you from a day of study.


----------



## Janderso

I agree, the technology and high quality components makes these new machines more robust, easy to get it right the first time and have so many welding options out of one machine. I was looking for the plasma cutter=no cigar, yet.
I think I will look into a TIG cooler down the road. Mount it all on one cart, including the Plasma cutter.


----------



## Downwindtracker2

I have four guards to make for a couple of machines. At work we had a Makita shear to cut all the curves in sheet metal .At the price of them, I could almost get a plasma cutter . Cutting sheet metal with torch isn't easy if you want a good line.


----------



## roadie33

I bought the Eastwood 60 plasma cutter a year ago and it works great. 
Got tired of flame cutting and all the grinding. 
Now it's cut, knock bb's off with scraper and good to go. 
I've cut up to 1/2' plate with no problem.


----------



## Janderso

I looked at Eastwood, my local Miller supplier sells Hypertherm. I had a 30 XP. It got destroyed in the fire.
Heck, I could buy your Eastwood 60 for half the price of the Hypertherm 30.
Maybe i'll go Eastwood next time. I'm reacquiring as we speak.
Pretty happy with it were you?


----------



## Cadillac

Hypertherm and esab are top of the game.


----------



## roadie33

Very happy with the Eastwood. I don't cut a lot. But when I do it's pretty much all day when building something and hasn't failed me yet.
Consumables are standard size so not very expensive.
Just make sure to put a good drier or 2 in line. They don't like any moisture whatsoever.


----------



## GoceKU

Have you heard of murphy's law, last week i had to make couple of gaskets for the carburetors i rebuild, and surprise surprise new one fell in my lap today and i was told they are no longer made and no one has them.


----------



## roadie33

Lucky you.


----------



## Superburban

Murphy? I know him well, he likes to hang out here for weeks on end. Just when I think he is gone for good, he shows up again.


----------



## Aaron_W

Last week I bought a slide rule, this week I got this. At least I know how this works.

It is a 1958 Dodge W500 fire engine built for the US Forest Service. There is a good possibility it came from the fire station where I retired as an engine captain last year. Probably too big for the Sherline to tackle.


----------



## eugene13

Downwindtracker2 said:


> I have four guards to make for a couple of machines. At work we had a Makita shear to cut all the curves in sheet metal .At the price of them, I could almost get a plasma cutter . Cutting sheet metal with torch isn't easy if you want a good line.


Now you need to go to Harbor F.  Their sheet metal shears are just as good as Milwalkee's, just a little bulkier.


----------



## Downwindtracker2

Princess Auto, like Harbor F, had some on sale a while back, but they were the double cut that leaves a curl behind. I like the Makita ones. B&D had one like that as well.


----------



## hman

Aaron_W said:


> Last week I bought a slide rule, this week I got this ... a 1958 Dodge W500 fire engine built for the US Forest Service.


In all likelihood, the slipstick and the truck are the same vintage.  Obviously,  you're living in the past


----------



## Aukai

My engine builder lives in Laytonville, I'm sure you guys were in the nervous zone with the fires.


----------



## Cooter Brown

I bought a basement lathe today... Its a Sears Roebuck Dunlap lathe, and IT HAS A 4 JAW!!!


----------



## hman

"basement lathe"?  Did you buy it from a cellar, rather than a seller? 
Actually looks nice ... reverse tumbler and everything.  Is that am MT1 taper at the tailstock?


----------



## Aaron_W

Aukai said:


> My engine builder lives in Laytonville, I'm sure you guys were in the nervous zone with the fires.



We are right in the middle of town, and about 4 miles from the air tanker base so it isn't too worrying where we are. I always have a heads up for fires because the tankers fly right past the house on their outbound leg. It is kind of like lightning, the shorter the turn around, the closer the fire.

Laytonville is another story, pretty area but much more remote.


What kind of engines does he build? Racecars, boats, 1958 Dodge trucks...


----------



## Aaron_W

Cooter Brown said:


> I bought a basement lathe today... Its a Sears Roebuck Dunlap lathe, and IT HAS A 4 JAW!!!
> 
> View attachment 282251
> View attachment 282254
> View attachment 282260
> View attachment 282259
> View attachment 282257
> 
> View attachment 282253
> View attachment 282255
> View attachment 282256
> View attachment 282258
> View attachment 282261




That is a neat old lathe. Mr Pete did a video on Craftsman 6" lathes, both Atlas and Dunlop. I've been somewhat fascinated with them since then. It would make no sense for me to get one since they are only marginally larger than my Sherline, but for some reason I can't stop myself from looking at them on CL and eBay. Eventually one will show up close enough and cheap enough that I won't be able to help myself.


----------



## Aaron_W

hman said:


> In all likelihood, the slipstick and the truck are the same vintage.  Obviously,  you're living in the past



I think the truck has a few years on the slide rule, but I'm definitely living in the past.


----------



## Cooter Brown

hman said:


> "basement lathe"?  Did you buy it from a cellar, rather than a seller?
> Actually looks nice ... reverse tumbler and everything.  Is that am MT1 taper at the tailstock?




I bought it from a friend,  I've been searching a while for a lathe that's small enough to carry down the steps by myself. I think it's a MT0 LULZ. This is a pretty sweet machine for how small it is has a threading dial and half nuts.


----------



## middle.road

Aaron_W said:


> Last week I bought a slide rule, this week I got this. At least I know how this works.
> 
> It is a 1958 Dodge W500 fire engine built for the US Forest Service. There is a good possibility it came from the fire station where I retired as an engine captain last year. Probably too big for the Sherline to tackle.
> 
> View attachment 282155


That is one Tough-Ass truck!


----------



## middle.road

* Don't let your Better-Half' go un-escorted to estate sales *
You never know what she'll bring home... 



The CP is jammed up, trigger and button no werky. hopefully it can be repaired.
The taps on the other hand... 
Anyone need some #8-36 taps. yep #8-36...
The other is a 3-pc #10-32 set.
I'd say SCORE on her part. . . $8 total.


----------



## hman

I assume you're a cigar smoker.


----------



## Janderso

Sharp LMV Milling Machine. ISO 30 taper


----------



## astjp2

Bought this today for my Jet lathe, now I just need some collets


----------



## killswitch505

I picked up my girlfriend a couple cushioned floor mats from Costco today one for in front of the sink and one for in front of the dishwasher you know so she’d be comfortable doing lady chores and what not....... looks like I’m gonna be doing dishes for a while


----------



## Ken from ontario

Nice kitchen!


----------



## Aaron_W

middle.road said:


> That is one Tough-Ass truck!



I should be above this kind of thing, but I'll admit I'm looking forward to getting it on the road and looking down on shiny brodozers.


----------



## middle.road

Aaron_W said:


> I should be above this kind of thing, but I'll admit I'm looking forward to getting it on the road and looking down on shiny brodozers.


Squashed in the rearview mirror?


----------



## Aaron_W

middle.road said:


> Squashed in the rearview mirror?



I'm not that petty. Just knowing they will be going home to find even bigger tires for their ridiculous pavement crawler will satisfy me.


----------



## middle.road

hman said:


> I assume you're a cigar smoker.


That's what that are! Thanks!
I know a friend who's getting a cool Christmas present. Made in West Germany even.


----------



## DiscoDan

Went to a local estate sale of a wood and metal tool horder. I bought a few things. Phase II swivel angle plate (6"x8"), AMT tramming device, drill press vise, file, level. Can anyone identify the vise logo? I can't make it out. The amount of tool stuff in this house was beyond belief.


----------



## DiscoDan

This guy was a true tool horder. Tools were everywhere, much if it appearing brand new. He had a really nice Bridgeport and two other milling machines plus a big Enco lathe in the basement. The young guy I talked to bought the Bridgeport, the Enco and a bunch of tooling for $12k. They were not giving stuff away but prices werent too bad. There was so much stuff you couldn't even organize anything. They will be doing another sale in January.


----------



## psychodelicdan

Do the ol pencil rubbing trick might be able to read that.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


----------



## 682bear

I ordered a face plate for my lathe from HGR... 

For some reason, HGR doesn't really give a good description, so this plate was a gamble. The ad just stated that it fit a threaded spindle... no info at all on what the thread was...

I figured for $39 plus shipping, if it doesn't fit, maybe I can bore it and re-thread it and make it work.

My spindle is a 2 3/8 x 6 tpi...




It fit! Without needing to be modified! 

Just luck, I guess...

-Bear


----------



## FOMOGO

" That thing got a Hemi in it "? I guess being a 58 it could have a 392, but probably a flat 6. Nice truck. Mike


----------



## Aaron_W

FOMOGO said:


> " That thing got a Hemi in it "? I guess being a 58 it could have a 392, but probably a flat 6. Nice truck. Mike
> 
> View attachment 282954



Thanks

They were available standard with a 265 Flat 6 or with an optional 315 V-8. Mine was ordered with the 315, but it was replaced with a 318 V8 at some point in its life which is apparently quite common.


----------



## BenW

Staying at my grandparents place over christmas. The door for the room I sleep in wouldn't close properly because the lock didn't quite line up with the slot in the doorframe. I removed the metal plate with the slot in it to file the slot slightly bigger and while I was looking for a square file I found this old oil can in a drawer. My grandma said I could keep it. It ought to be pretty old. All joints are soldered and the brass parts are nicely turned with beautiful knurling. It seems very well made, can't test it until I get home tough. No markings unfortunately.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## Downwindtracker2

As likely know there are two 318s, they still used  older one in trucks after they had switched over in cars to the lighter 273 small block family. Love the truck.


----------



## Aaron_W

Downwindtracker2 said:


> As likely know there are two 318s, they still used  older one in trucks after they had switched over in cars to the lighter 273 small block family. Love the truck.



It is the older polyspheric A318, not the wedge LA318 that came along in the late 1960s. So back to FOMOGO's comment it has a not quite a hemi in it. 

Bringing it back to machining I love the dash with its turned or at least faux turned metal accents.


----------



## jbobb1

Got a Newell 3 Axis DRO ordered (the pic is a 2 axis), but won't ship for about a week due to the holidays.


----------



## rwm

How/ why did you decide on Newall? Are those cylindrical scales easier to mount? They seem to have a lower profile?
Robert


----------



## jbobb1

After watching a video of the install, I decided to look into the Newell. Going over the manual, in my mind, it couldn't get any simpler. Can't say they're lower profile because I don't have dimensions on the encoders, but they do seem more "compact" compared to the obsolete glass scales I have on my mill now. For the functionality, the price was affordable.


----------



## GrayTech

Found a few things at the local market today for $8. 5/8 UNC & UNF taps, 1/2-20 adjustable die, new 12mm reamer, and um... anyone know what that middle thing is? The end nut adjusts to bulge the wire basket. For honing with sandpaper was what I had in mind. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




Merry Christmas to all. 

Sent from my H3123 using Tapatalk


----------



## Cooter Brown

I just ordered a iGaging 0-1" Digital Quick Micrometer.....   Now maybe my lazy ass will be more likely to pick up the micrometer and leave the calipers in the tool box.... I really need to use micrometers more often in the home shop....



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QU9Y34E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Cooter Brown

GrayTech said:


> Found a few things at the local market today for $8. 5/8 UNC & UNF taps, 1/2-20 adjustable die, new 12mm reamer, and um... anyone know what that middle thing is? The end nut adjusts to bulge the wire basket. For honing with sandpaper was what I had in mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Merry Christmas to all.
> 
> Sent from my H3123 using Tapatalk




The middle tool could be an adjustable ID lap but it does look kind of funny...


----------



## Janderso

Room Supra and a Jacobs Super chuck key.
I ordered the key before the fire. I don’t remember which model chuck.
I love these Rohm chucks, smooth as silk.
My brain is in la la land, I ordered two of them for some reason.
O well, i’ll Mount one on a straight shank for the mill and the other with an MT3.
I bought a Kurt DX6 also. Sweet!


----------



## francist

Set of roll pin punches arrived in the mail today. My first experience with Grace Tools -- they look and feel really good. Haven't had a chance to put them to use yet, but just on first appearances I think I'm liking them!

-frank


----------



## Liljoebrshooter

I ordered these last week for my present. The rotary table needed a little love. The chuck just needed a little cleaning.
I had to set the face mill up just to see it make some chips.


----------



## Aukai

Got a heads up about a Dorion SDN 25 AXA tool post, last one on Amazon Prime 200.00


----------



## mmcmdl

Can't go wrong with Dorian or Aloris . Expensive but NICE !


----------



## GoceKU

The holidays are coming, so i stopped by the local flea market and couple of car part stores, i bought couple grease fittings to install and change the ones on the litle Niva i'm fixing, also bought this rhom keyed drill chuck, it is new but is missing its key, also bought two HSS countersinks 25mm and 30mm complete with holders i also found this original Lada ignition lock, at first look like NOS but after clean up its been used but is still usable. And on the way back i had to go to 4 parts stores to find oil and air filter for the little Niva, they are very cheap half price then for french cars, after the new year looks like i'll have couple of days off work so i plan to get it finished as much as i can then.


----------



## BGHansen

Few Christmas and eBay additions:

Bought another 4-set Sears sanding block set from eBay seller stm_surplus.  There are rubber and have nails embedded to hold the paper in place.  Much nicer than my typical scrap block of wood cut to size, $18 including shipping.



Picked up this lot of Nicholson files off eBay for about $30 including shipping



Christmas gift from my wife.  Think she's giving me a hint to get out of the habit of wiping the files on my pants to clean them. . .



Another Christmas present from my better half.  I have a steel screw checker, but you have to thread the screw/bolts into a hole to check the thread size.  These side-load plastic ones should go quicker.



I think I've cut one left-hand thread ever.  Saw these LH threading tools on eBay and picked up a pair for my Grizzly and Clausing lathes ($12 shipped each).  They came with 16IRA60 inserts.  Off the top of my head here, so consider the source, but the 16 is the size, "I" is internal, "R" is right hand thread, and the "A60" is (I think) 8-48 tpi. 

I was curious about the inserts as it seems to me that there should be some side relief at the tip of the insert.  Direction would be different for LH vs. RH threads as the helix angle is opposite relative to straight up and down.  Well, set both a LH and RH tool on a plate with a square and I don't see a difference.  The side relief could be done on the casting of the insert, or on the surface on the tool holder where the insert screws down.  Looks to me like both the LH and RH Chinese tool holders I have are pretty much dead straight up and down.  I set the LH and RH tool holders next to each other and they look parallel.  Curious why there's no side relief . . .






Was getting low on QCTP tool holders so picked up 6 more from CDCOtools



Our local Tractor Supply store had a clearance on 1/4" air hose quick connects.  Didn't need a dozen of them for $1 each, but . . .



Went on a measuring tool buying spree.  Now I can measure how poorly I'm hitting my targets!  Picked up a Chinese 0-6" digital depth micrometer.  I have an NSK 0-4" or 0-6" set too, impulse buy for $40 off eBay (including shipping).

Picked up a couple of tumbler style Mitutoyo micrometers:  Tubing and 60 deg. V.  Paid around $50 for the pair.

Also get a Mitutoyo uni-mike.  Both the blade and pin anvils are there, $40.

Lastly, a Mitutoyo 0-1" groove micrometer.  Impulse buy as I don't do a lot of internal grooving jobs, but it was a good deal at $85 shipped.










Bruce


----------



## GoceKU

Nice score Bruce, those sending blocks sure look to be better quality then cheap china one in stores today.


----------



## jrkorman

Christmas present to myself. Saw these for sale just before Christmas at $85 including shipping. Couldn't turn that down.
Nice set, complete, no scratches, etc. They're about a 12 year old SPI (Chinese) set.

From having looked at a few EBay auctions and others for sale, I have to admit that "Mr John Q Sue" is a busy dude!


----------



## Cadillac

Got myself a little Christmas gift searching eBay one night. Only problem was the box looked like this when I opened the box. 


The box sounded rattly when the girl handed it to me. Dam it. The fella didn’t pack anything inside the wooden box to keep the 20lb fixture from moving around and it had went right through the lid of the box. 


I immediately emailed the seller and he just blew it of as usps being ruff with packages. I repeatedly  told him his disregard for putting anything in the box to keep the fixture from moving was the problem. The cardboard box was fine. 
    Anyways the good thing that came out was the seller refunded me the full purchase. And said I could keep the sale as he would put a claim in with the usps. So i guess it worked out I purchased a yuasa endmill grinding fixture for my T&C grinder and ended up getting it for free.  It came with two different spindles and all the collets from 1/8 to 1 1/4 shanks. After disassembling and checking for damage I threw it up on the plate. Theirs a deviation of .0004 from left side of tube to the right side. I think that should be alright. 


Now I need to remake the top of the wooden box. Looking at it more the box was all wrong anyway wrong size and style. To tall, deep and top opening. I’ll make one that’s fitted for the tool. Holds all the collets and spindles the proper way.


----------



## HarryJM

So I stopped by a estate tag sale today and purchased a few items at 50% off as this was their last day. Two of the items were boxes of 3/8 x 3/8 x 3 1/8 C.L Cobal USA cutting tool blanks (total of 17 blanks for $15) which I figured would be good to practice cutting my own lathe bits. So just out of curiosity I found the same blanks on ebay for $70 for 2 of them. So what is the story with that price. Is there something about C.L bits that I am not aware of?


----------



## BGHansen

More eBay and Harbor Freight shopping.  Picked up some small boring bars (6 mm and 7 mm diameter) that take CCMT 21 bits.  Recall the boring bars being something like $6-$8 each.  Picked up 20 inserts too for under $8 per 10.






Picked up a batch of 10 new Guhring 1/4" parabolic drills.  Impulse buy for $31.



I have a 12-ton HF shop press and swapped out the hand-pump bottle jack for an air over hydraulic.  The press has served me well over the years, but the design at the load points isn't the greatest.  The bottle jack pushes up on a piece of tubular steel which in turn pushed down on the base of the jack which has the arbor on the bottom.  Steel rods connect the bottle jack base to the top tubular reaction surface.  The nuts on the rods had severely deformed the tubing, not to the point of pulling completely through, but I wasn't in the mood for any surprises.  A better design would be a piece of plate or channel to carry the load from the middle of the square tubing to the sides.

I went the easier route and bought a 20-ton press.  The 12-ton air over hydraulic is on the new press, so shouldn't be bending this one.  I'll repurpose the angle from the 12-ton press and make a rolling rack for stock storage.

My 12-ton press



Bent tubing, curious that a 12-ton rated
press would get this bent up with the
a 12-ton bottle jack . . .  Safety factor in the design?!?!





New 20-ton press with the 12-ton jack



Bruce


----------



## GoceKU

Today just before new year's eve i did little work on the dashboard for the Little Niva i'm fixing up, i did couple of coats of body filler then sending, but is starting to take shape.

Happy New Everyone!!!!!!!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

BGHansen said:


> Picked up some small boring bars (6 mm and 7 mm diameter) that take CCMT 21 bits.
> 
> Bruce



Bruce, I'd suggest getting some CCGT inserts for those boring bars. They're a little more fragile but cut waaaaay easier than the CCMT inserts. On bars that small you'll get a lot of flex and chatter with CCMT inserts.


----------



## PHPaul

I bought tungstens, collets, collet bodies and stainless steel wire brushes to see if my old Miller DialArc HF still has the stuff to TIG aluminum.  

I've been TIGing mild and stainless steel off and on for a while, but haven't messed with aluminum since I worked in the cannery lo those many years ago, and didn't do much of it then.  Other guys in the shop were MUCH better at it.

I do some "fixit" stuff around town and have had several inquiries about welding aluminum.  Seeing as I have the machine and the gas (straight Argon) I figured I could drop a Benjamin on consumables and see if I can get good enough at it to admit to it in public.


----------



## BGHansen

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Bruce, I'd suggest getting some CCGT inserts for those boring bars. They're a little more fragile but cut waaaaay easier than the CCMT inserts. On bars that small you'll get a lot of flex and chatter with CCMT inserts.


Hi Matt,

Thanks for the tip.  I'll look some up on eBay.  

Just curious, what's the difference in the "G" vs. the "M"?  According to my info, the first character (C) is for shape (80 deg. diamond in this case).  The second character is relief angle (C in this case for 7 deg.).  The third character is tolerance (G is tighter than M).  The fourth character is hole style (40-60 deg single-sided countersink for T).  I wouldn't have guessed that tolerance would make that much of a difference, but I'm up for trying and buying anything for the shop!

Best regards, Bruce


----------



## Cadillac

Bruce I also have some ccmt inserts and have found the ccgt inserts fit the same pocket. They are sharp with a positive rake. Work very good on aluminum. Can use for steel but keep depth of cuts under .005. 


I’ve found that tcgt inserts also fit for a tcmt insert. Same thing very sharp and work very good. 


Hope that helps some.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

BGHansen said:


> Just curious, what's the difference in the "G" vs. the "M"?



M stands for molded, a rounded tougher but blunter edge. G stands for ground, a sharp edge that's also more fragile. Think honed HSS sharp, but without the impact resistance. The CCMT inserts will take a lot of abuse in steel, but leave a poor finish (on my small lathe at least). The CCGT inserts will leave a beautiful finish and can take a thou cut easily, but a stall or slightly overzealous feed with a decent DOC = chipped tip.


----------



## BGHansen

Cadillac said:


> Bruce I also have some ccmt inserts and have found the ccgt inserts fit the same pocket. They are sharp with a positive rake. Work very good on aluminum. Can use for steel but keep depth of cuts under .005.
> View attachment 283760
> 
> I’ve found that tcgt inserts also fit for a tcmt insert. Same thing very sharp and work very good.
> View attachment 283761
> 
> Hope that helps some.


Ordered some off eBay from seller "zimi-hk", 20 inserts for $16 including shipping.  I've had really good luck with this eBay seller, probably have the inserts by 1/20/2019.

Thanks again for the tip,

Bruce


----------



## Cadillac

BGHansen said:


> Ordered some off eBay from seller "zimi-hk", 20 inserts for $16 including shipping.  I've had really good luck with this eBay seller, probably have the inserts by 1/20/2019.
> 
> Thanks again for the tip,
> 
> Bruce


Funny that’s where I get most of mine same seller. Small world


----------



## Cadillac

Man usps is on my Sh— list they’re not doing to good this month. Boxed looks like it was throw out the truck.


Took advantage of the sale from all industrial tool. Stocked up on some bxa and axa tool holders for the lathes. Got a mt2 holder for a drill chuck to mount on the carriage. And for some reason I can’t find my 5/8 5c collet so I picked one of them up also. IMO these are the nicest finished holders out of all the imports. They don’t say China on them too.


----------



## DaveInHouston

darkzero said:


> Don't remember if there is an existing thread like this. Many of you guys like to share your scores so let's try a new ongoing thread...
> 
> If your here chances are you love tools & always love to get new ones. This thread is not necessarily for gloating (well maybe) but you can if you want but expect to get a "you suck" compliment!
> 
> So what did you buy for the shop today (or recently)? No tool too small or too big, machines, equipment, inexpensive, expensive, good deal or not, whatever. All that matters is if you'd like to share your latest acquisition that put a smile on your face, post 'em up! And you know the drill, we love to see photos!



I dragged this home the other day. The old gentleman (older than me!) had owned it for thirty years and used it occasionally as a wood lathe to make toys. It seems to be in good shape other than needing a cleanup and tuneup. Got a few tools and a huge amount of gears. Some of the extra gears are steel and I assume don’t belong to the lathe. Serial number on lathe is 11998 S, but I have no idea when it was made.
Thanks,
Dave


----------



## mattthemuppet2

BGHansen said:


> Ordered some off eBay from seller "zimi-hk", 20 inserts for $16 including shipping.  I've had really good luck with this eBay seller, probably have the inserts by 1/20/2019.
> 
> Thanks again for the tip,
> 
> Bruce



nice, I've bought from them before too. I've found the "Korloy" ones to be a little more robust than the unbranded ones I got from Banggood.

lovely looking lathe Dave, 10" Atlas? Feel free to come say hi if you're ever in the area


----------



## DaveInHouston

DaveInHouston said:


> I dragged this home the other day. The old gentleman (older than me!) had owned it for thirty years and used it occasionally as a wood lathe to make toys. It seems to be in good shape other than needing a cleanup and tuneup. Got a few tools and a huge amount of gears. Some of the extra gears are steel and I assume don’t belong to the lathe. Serial number on lathe is 11998 S, but I have no idea when it was made.
> Thanks,
> Dave


Here are the gears that came with the lathe.....40 in all. The ones on the left (25 if I can count) are Zamak? But in good shape. The ones on the right (15 or so) are cast or steel (a magnet sticks to them) but I don’t know what they go to. They all are marked “Boston GB - 90” or whatever the tooth count is. Very nice gears and appear unused.


----------



## hman

Do the gears from the two sets inter-mate?  If so, you've got some bodacious threading capability!


----------



## DaveInHouston

hman said:


> Do the gears from the two sets inter-mate?  If so, you've got some bodacious threading capability!


I haven’t checked each and every gear, but the ones I checked did seem to mesh properly.


----------



## Bamban

BGHansen said:


> Ordered some off eBay from seller "zimi-hk", 20 inserts for $16 including shipping.  I've had really good luck with this eBay seller, probably have the inserts by 1/20/2019.
> 
> Thanks again for the tip,
> 
> Bruce



zimi-hk is my preferred supplier as well. To stock up, I bought a pack of inserts every month last year from them, mainly DCGTs and CCGTs. I use these on SS 416R. I have taken 0.050 DOC with the CCGT 32.51 on the newly belted SBL13 with no issues. Definitely no issues in the gear head 1236. The 32.52 for finishing.


----------



## bpimm

Scored this guy on Craigslist. I'm thinking small tool storage.


----------



## Firstram

Nice cabinet! I hope you have a labeler...


----------



## bpimm

Firstram said:


> Nice cabinet! I hope you have a labeler...



I will....


----------



## magicniner

I saw this and had to have it, it will fit several things that I'd like a direct mm reading from ;-)


----------



## GoceKU

Christmas is coming that means all the stores will be closed so i decided to buy all the paint supplies i'll need to prepare the little Niva for paint today.


----------



## Ianagos

Not today but a week or so ago I bought my self a new mill. Fadal Vmc5020a

It coming in








There’s a picture of it next to the Vmc15


----------



## BenW

Sandvik A08K-SCLPR 06-R new in box with 10 seco ccmt inserts, 30$. Now I gotta make a holder.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## Downwindtracker2

Bull of the Woods vol II. A book of machine shop cartoons from the '30s. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=46711&cat=1,46096,46100,46711


----------



## hman

Thanks!  Ordered the ones that are still available.


----------



## DiscoDan

Went to the woodworking show today and ended up with a 1955 Starrett catalog, a B&S square and Craftsman calipers. The catalog is a great reference.


----------



## mmcmdl

DiscoDan said:


> Went to the woodworking show today and ended up with a 1955 Starrett catalog, a B&S square and Craftsman calipers. The catalog is a great reference.




I could keep you going for WEEKS Dan !!


----------



## DiscoDan

mmcmdl said:


> I could keep you going for WEEKS Dan !!



I'm sure you could! We need to get together soon. Would love to see your shop.


----------



## mmcmdl

LOL , no shop . Just the remains of one . I'm bringing the SB home tomorrow and will be moving some things tomorrow all day . No rain for once !


----------



## rwm

Can anybody recommend a good source for a transfer punch set? I have a cheap import set but I was a quality set. Thanks
Robert


----------



## Cooter Brown

rwm said:


> Can anybody recommend a good source for a transfer punch set? I have a cheap import set but I was a quality set. Thanks
> Robert



Shars punches are kinda cheap but they sell a ton of sizes....

https://www.shars.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=1971&q=transfer+punch


----------



## 682bear

I picked this up this morning... a CL find...




I've been wanting a Kurt for a while... now I can quit wanting.

-Bear


----------



## mmcmdl

Got the SB heavy 10 home yesterday . Not sure just yet if it gets kept or parted out . The bed is worn , I would have to re-power it along with purchasing smaller tooling . I know why they named it heavy 10 now , it's heavy and also awkward !


----------



## mmcmdl

All doors removed , motor out , tailstock off , chuck off , guards removed , electrical wires removed . Got something accomplished today !


----------



## Surprman

I went to a surplus store last week and didn’t find anything great, but came across two assemblies with some Teflon peices on them.  They were only $3 each so I figured I would buy them to have some Teflon stock in case I ever needed it. I took the assemblies apart, thinking the shafts were aluminum but they seemed too heavy and looked tarnished.  I put some Chlorox on them and they readily tarnished.  Reading a bit more on testing for silver I came across a test using ice.  Silver has a very high thermal conductivity (the highest of all metals I think).  When I put ice on the shaft (that was at room temperature) it was like it was a hot poker and sunk right into the ice.

Pretty sure I got some high silver content alloy. Cool.

I wish I knew what the application was for these assemblies.

Rick


----------



## hman

I'd offer a wild-a$$ guess that these were used as high current feedthroughs for a vacuum system, or possibly some kind of chemical bath.  That's based on what looks like o-ring grooves in the shank and face.  How big are these things?


----------



## Surprman

hman said:


> I'd offer a wild-a$$ guess that these were used as high current feedthroughs for a vacuum system, or possibly some kind of chemical bath.  That's based on what looks like o-ring grooves in the shank and face.  How big are these things?


Could be a high current application.  The shafts are about 1/2 inch in diameter.


----------



## Cooter Brown

mmcmdl said:


> Got the SB heavy 10 home yesterday . Not sure just yet if it gets kept or parted out . The bed is worn , I would have to re-power it along with purchasing smaller tooling . I know why they named it heavy 10 now , it's heavy and also awkward !



VERY NICE MACHINE! The heavy 10's that have beds 4' or longer are rare.


----------



## rwm

Surprman said:


> I went to a surplus store last week and didn’t find anything great, but came across two assemblies with some Teflon peices on them.  They were only $3 each so I figured I would buy them to have some Teflon stock in case I ever needed it. I took the assemblies apart, thinking the shafts were aluminum but they seemed too heavy and looked tarnished.  I put some Chlorox on them and they readily tarnished.  Reading a bit more on testing for silver I came across a test using ice.  Silver has a very high thermal conductivity (the highest of all metals I think).  When I put ice on the shaft (that was at room temperature) it was like it was a hot poker and sunk right into the ice.
> 
> Pretty sure I got some high silver content alloy. Cool.
> 
> I wish I knew what the application was for these assemblies.
> 
> Rick


We don't have surplus stores like that!!! Where is it?
Robert


----------



## Janderso

Boy no kidding.


----------



## mmcmdl

Surprman said:


> I went to a surplus store last week and didn’t find anything great, but came across two assemblies with some Teflon peices on them. They were only $3 each so I figured I would buy them to have some Teflon stock in case I ever needed it.



You need Teflon ?


----------



## BGHansen

Few eBay and CDCOtools purchases . . .

Some CCMT inserts (still waiting on some CCGT's)



Picked up some 1/2" x 1/2" brass bar stock for around $30



More BXA tool holders from CDCO



A Lufkin 0-1" groove micrometer



Fowler digit 0-6" depth micrometer



Starrett metric thread pitch gauges



Mitutoyo V-blocks



Two dozen file handles




Bruce


----------



## Janderso

Bruce, I want you as my neighbor.


----------



## BGHansen

Janderso said:


> Bruce, I want you as my neighbor.


Hi Jeff,

Love to have you as a neighbor!  It'd be great to bore someone other than my wife with "shop talk"!

Bruce


----------



## BGHansen

Few more things showed up today.  I was assembling the HF 20-ton press and noticed I didn't have doubles of my metric combo wrenches up to 25 mm.  Picked up a set of new Craftsman wrenches up to 22 mm.






OK, this is what they look like in the drawer . . .



POTD coming this summer to organize the metric and misc. wrenches like my English drawer



Picked up 3 speed wrenches too.  1/2" Craftsman, 3/8" SK, 1/4" Snap-on



Added to my snugs drawer . . .



Broke the blade on my HF 7x12 band saw and was down to 1 spare 10/14 bi-metal blade.  Amazon to the rescue!



Bruce


----------



## francist

Well this has got to be the deal of the year for me! I drove out to my favourite tool place this morning (Lee Valley) to pick up a few back-ordered items for work. Nothing fancy, just some shelf brackets and that sort of thing. On my way to the express counter I swung past the clearance tables to sniff around. Ooh, this is interesting -- a Mitutoyo box, and then another. Let's see what's inside....




The first one contained a brand new, still in sealed plastic, 25-50mm friction thimble micrometer and the second box an equally brand new, still sealed in plastic, 3-4" / 75-100mm Combimike. Standards, spanners, and instructions included.

I could not believe my fortune. I don't usually use metric stuff even though I know the system well enough and we were taught both in school. But all my working life has been sufficiently insular to be able to stay with the inch system, and for sure that's what I use at home just because I relate to it better. But I mean, for $15 and $19 dollars respectively I couldn't resist!




-frank


----------



## Downwindtracker2

What happened ?,even the original price was a steal . I've never seen Mituyoyo in Lee Valley. Starrett, yes.


----------



## francist

Yeah I don't know. I think the first sticker price (the one that is crossed off) is also a sale offering, so my price today was already twice discounted. I've seen this quite a bit in the store -- a discount gets discounted even further when it still refuses to move. As for the brand though, I agree, I've never seen Mitutoyo offered. Could have been a test market at one time, or I thought they may have even bought them for their own shop use perhaps. To me, the packaging looks like from the '80's, so I think they've been on a shelf somewhere for a very long time.

-frank


----------



## Downwindtracker2

They do pick up left over stock. Sometimes as far back as the '30s .May be it was in one of those batches Whatever, you did great..


----------



## hman

ANY Mitutoyo measuring instrument of ANY age for under $20 is outright THEFT!!!  Congratulations!  You definitely suck ... twice.


----------



## GoceKU

Murphy law strikes again, couple of weeks back i went junkyard to junkyard, store to store to buy a good carburetor for the little Lada i'm fixing, and after buying a bunch of them and building two good ones out of all of them yesterday, passing by a flea market, first thing i see, two carburetors for a Niva, they are very dirty, but still in great shape and at 4$ a piece, i could not pass them, better to have them and not need them.


----------



## Nogoingback

Just a few eBay purchases: a couple of old Logan catalogs and a Jacobs catalog from 1970.  The Jacobs catalog
is a useful reference since it has all the part numbers and specs for the older chucks as well as part numbers
for all the repair parts and keys.  Jacobs must have imported Albrecht chucks back then, since it has them listed with
repair parts as well.


----------



## DiscoDan

Got my first Machinerys Handbook today. 16th edition from 1959. Who keeps the dust cover!! Also has the original owners name and date plus an imprint (like the one a notary uses) that says Library of Kyle H Peterson. Pretty cool.


----------



## BGHansen

GoceKU said:


> Murphy law strikes again, couple of weeks back i went junkyard to junkyard, store to store to buy a good carburetor for the little Lada i'm fixing, and after buying a bunch of them and building two good ones out of all of them yesterday, passing by a flea market, first thing i see, two carburetors for a Niva, they are very dirty, but still in great shape and at 4$ a piece, i could not pass them, better to have them and not need them.
> View attachment 284814
> View attachment 284815
> View attachment 284813
> View attachment 284816


GoceKU,

You know what's going to happen.  You're going to get this car all finished up and a mint one will show up on your door step for next to nothing.

Bruce


----------



## roadie33

BGHansen said:


> GoceKU,
> 
> You know what's going to happen.  You're going to get this car all finished up and a mint one will show up on your door step for next to nothing.
> 
> Bruce



Now that would be just plain sadistic if that happened.
If it did, I would be very careful crossing any streets where buses travel.


----------



## GoceKU

roadie33 said:


> If it did, I would be very careful crossing any streets where buses travel.



Yeah, i may finish fixing it and my country may enforce new anti pollution laws, but hopefully, this being over 35 years old they leave a loophole to register it as a oldtimer.

Bus and truck drivers are the last of my concern, i'm more concerned to be in the same city when one of my ex girlfriend is driving .


----------



## darkzero

Sold my M18 brushed Hackzall & got me the M18 Fuel brushless Hackzall. No reason, the old version worked fine for me. Only cost me $20 to upgrade.





Wanted to get me a bigger size Cobra pliers, uh, I think I went too big! Haha





Finally got my new belt sander setup now. I actually bought this in July during a sale, has been sitting in the box cause my garage has been out of order for a while.


----------



## 682bear

An e-bay find...




-Bear


----------



## Janderso

Aloris CXA 7 piece set.
I am so impressed with the USA variety over Chinesum. Its worth the money when looking at a 10-20 year plan.
What's $600 over ten years? ($60) smart A**s
Placed the order...today


----------



## vocatexas

I've been watching Ebay and Craigslist for two years for a Lisle 91000 bit grinder. The only complete one I've seen in all that time went for over $1500 a few months ago. I happened to check last night and found one only missing the wheel dresser and safety shield and bracket. I made an offer and the seller accepted. Just waiting for it to ship now. Man, I hope UPS doesn't trash it shipping it here....


----------



## GoceKU

Today i bought a fresh can of car body filler and i have a feeling i'll be buying couple more to finish the project i'm currently working on.


----------



## darkzero

Got me some fancy smancy coolant to try. Hope it's skookum & doesn't cause rust or staining.


----------



## DiscoDan

Ok, I haven't bought this but I think it is cool as hell, a thread counting micrometer!!

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/540602506443413/


----------



## mmcmdl

Dan , I have that identical Gerstner from 1937 and many of those square bicycle wrenches .  You going up to Lebanon Pa this weekend ? I have a group going on Sat and I'm going up Sun


----------



## DiscoDan

mmcmdl said:


> Dan , I have that identical Gerstner from 1937 and many of those square bicycle wrenches .  You going up to Lebanon Pa this weekend ? I have a group going on Sat and I'm going up Sun



I was thinking about going but my mom has been having medical issues and I don't want to be gone all day. Bummer. Maybe next year. I need a Gerstner too.


----------



## BGHansen

Couple more eBay finds/buys:

Some CCGT inserts, will see how these work compared to CCMT's (eBay seller zimi-hk)



Some miscellaneous stainless steel stock.  Not specific project planned, just good to have around



J.T. Slocomb 0-6" digital depth mic headed for the Clausing's tool box





Bruce


----------



## Cadillac

I was board one night so I did some insert purchasing. I've had very good luck with all my purchases from ebay seller zimi-hk. The ccmt inserts have a pvd coating which I've not yet tried but their rated for cutting all materials. Took about 3 weeks but at 7-10 a box it worth the waiting. The tpg inserts came from another seller. Should be good on inserts for awhile.


----------



## f350ca

Had 2020's firewood delivered yesterday, mostly red oak. Its in kit form, some disassembly required.



Greg


----------



## BGHansen

f350ca said:


> Had 2020's firewood delivered yesterday, mostly red oak. Its in kit form, some disassembly required.
> View attachment 285265
> 
> 
> Greg


Watch out where the German Shepherd's go, 
and don't you eat that yellow snow 

Bruce


----------



## mmcmdl

Looks like you have an always willing helper !


----------



## f350ca

She doesn't let me out of her sight. Afraid she might miss a ride. lol

Greg


----------



## WCraig

Picked up a few things from an auction:


From top left, clockwise
2 sets of shim (fractional inch), set of center drills still in packaging, boring bars and boring bar holders
HSS metric drills, carbide masonary drills, various larger drills, reamers including an adjustable reamer and a MT1 reamer, Armstrong-type tool holders, cutoff tool in holder, user-made boring tool holder, folding rule, 
boxed set of lathe tools including scissor-type knurler, more boring bars and holder
boxed set of measuring tools, flat of files and rasps, various size calipers
magnetic parts dishes, larger die stock, 2 saw sets
assorted wood shaper bits, 5 more tape measures (that I really didn't need)

I got a tiny fraction of the nearly 400 lots of tools.  Prices were not cheap but not like the stupid-high bids in some recent auctions I've followed.

Craig


----------



## Janderso

I’m building a transmission build table at work. I need to cut 2X3”, 1/8” rectangular tubing.
So, that gave me the excuse to buy the Jet saw.
Also, my Miller 220 Ac/Dc welding machine came in Friday.
Pics to follow.


----------



## Janderso

f350ca said:


> She doesn't let me out of her sight. Afraid she might miss a ride.
> 
> Notice her ears, German Shepard’s always show their emotions.
> We had labs and shepard’s Growing up.
> Love em!


----------



## Janderso

I didn’t buy it today, but, I saw this on Pinterest.
Dang that is beautiful.


----------



## KBeitz

I bet I have 10 compressors but today I walked in our new Harbor fright store and they had an compressor on display with a BIG sign on it saying try me.... I'm super quite.... So of course I had to try it.... And buy it.... I never ever heard a compressor so quite in my life.... Fortress compressor 64596. I'm happy... For use on my home shop... It's got good reviews...


----------



## Manderioli

Picked up a complete SPI M1 minus ZZ pin gage set from a pawn shop for $70.


----------



## Janderso

I've been thinking about a set of cheap gauge blocks to assist with equal clamping on the Kurt vise as a primary use.
Are there other ways to accomplish this?


----------



## Cadillac

Janderso said:


> I've been thinking about a set of cheap gauge blocks to assist with equal clamping on the Kurt vise as a primary use.
> Are there other ways to accomplish this?



Gauge blocks arnt used in a vise. Do you mean parallels? Gauge blocks are used for measuring setups not for blocking. 
 For equal clamping pressure on a irregular part one can use a 1” ball from bearing and grind a flat on one side.  Then place flat of ball against movable jaw of vise. Now you have 3 points of contact which is optimal for holding parts in vise.


----------



## ozzie34231

Adjustable parallels are a good choice if you are talking about padding out one side of the jaws.


----------



## GreatOldOne

A selection of new tools I've got over the past week.

Mitutoyo 0-150mm Digit Depth Mic. Good condition, just a little dirty. Could probably stand to have a little lubrication on the mic thread. The wooden case needs a little attention, but its sound.










Mitutoyo 25-50mm Digit mic. In excellent condition. Shame the same can't be said about the case, which is cracked. Nothing some superglue and bicarb of soda won't cure, and I've designed and will 3D print a tray to sit inside to keep it from rattling around.













Some old 'girder' wrenches. I liked the look of the ones that 'Hand Tool Rescue' on YouTube uses and had copies remade. The problem with those is a they're expensive if you're in Canada or the States. If you're not, like me, they're ridiculously expensive once you factor shipping and customs charges. So a search on eBay for local UK items and boom - two for less than the price of shipping the new ones over. Both King Dick, and the small one is 1936 Air Ministry issue. Nice. For reference, the larger one is 6", and the smaller is a hair over 4 inch.


----------



## francist

I one virtually identical to your larger wrench, they hold an adjustment very nicely. Never heard them referred to as "girder wrenches" before though. King Dick shows up occasionally around here, and it's fairly nice quality stuff. Nice finds.

-frank


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by a junkyard to get a bigger radiator for a project i'm fixing, and got this radiator with fans and a piece of stainless pipe all in 10$, not bad.


----------



## GoceKU

This morning i went and visited couple of machinery dealers, looking for a milling machine, unfortunately no new machines and the better ones are gone so only the junk remains and i'm not buying that, but i did found couple of things, first was this MT2 to MT3 sleeve, they are hard to found especially new so i bought it, i also bought this cheap drill vice, i prefer something better quality but for 5$ i could not pass on it, i also bought this tree chipper disc with knives, the seller did not know what was the machine for so he scraped it but keep the disc and electric motor i also bought it for 5$.


----------



## hman

Interesting! I have 2 of that same drill press vise, Wolfcraft brand.  I bought the first one for my Oregon shop a bunch of years ago.  It was made in Germany.  I bought the second more recently (for my original Arizona shop), but this one was made in China.  Still branded Wolfcraft, but the base casting is visibly more lightweight, though still OK.  The table clamps are interchangeable between the two.

I do like them for drill press vises.  Paid a lot more than $5 for them, however.  You got a nice del on yours!


German on the left, Chinese on the right.  Yours looks like a hybrid between the two.  Any idea where it's from?


----------



## SamI

A couple of days ago I went to go and pick up a bench vice is saw on Gumtree (I think the UK equivalent to Craigslist) and while I was there I got chatting.  Turned out that a few doors down was a chap selling up shop and I was lucky enough to be introduced.  It's sad to see a small machine shop closing down although I must admit I left with a smile on my face after walking away with an 8" rotary table that I absolutely do not need, a 1" boring bar that I was just about to go ahead and order new and this Mitutoyo 50-150 mm micrometer:




I also very nearly left with a tapping head and two absolutely huge machine vices but sensibly I decided against it.  I don't like sensible and it's been eating away at me since.


----------



## roadie33

You better head back over there and pick up those vices and Tapping head.
I'd hate to see you get an ulcer from not getting them. 

Might pick up a good mill too.


----------



## GoceKU

hman said:


> nteresting! I have 2 of that same drill press vise, Wolfcraft brand. I bought the first one for my Oregon shop a bunch of years ago. It was made in Germany. I bought the second more recently (for my original Arizona shop), but this one was made in China. Still branded Wolfcraft, but the base casting is visibly more lightweight, though still OK. The table clamps are interchangeable between the two.


 
I think my is a chinese copy of a china's vice, because the underneath is shallow, also the button for quick adjusting the jaws is striated, because it wont tighten unless i tighten the button with the set screw from the side.


----------



## GoceKU

Today after work i stopped by a hardware store and bought couple of Led tube lights and couple of Led panels to replace some of the old neon lights and add some more in my small garage.


----------



## Belgium

20kg lathe tools for 100 euro's


----------



## roadie33

Bought this Monday. Admiral 12" double bevel sliding Miter saw from Harbor Freight.
Had a coupon for $179. Couldn't pass that up.
Replaced a 12 year old 10" Ryobi that was starting to slow down and had that burnt electrical smell.
After I squared up the blade, fence and aligned the laser, I cut some scrap pieces to check square and it was right on.
Has a Bright LED light and laser is a plus. Comes with a 60 tooth carbide tipped blade. It doesn't cut to bad so far. I'll have to pick up some spare blades since all of my others are 10".
Time will tell if it is a HF winner.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

Janderso said:


> I’m building a transmission build table at work. I need to cut 2X3”, 1/8” rectangular tubing.
> So, that gave me the excuse to buy the Jet saw.
> Also, my Miller 220 Ac/Dc welding machine came in Friday.
> Pics to follow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 285903


I have the Grizzly labeled version of that saw & am very happy with it. Enjoy!


----------



## BROCKWOOD

I bought aluminum sheet for the lathe to make a new faceplate panel & a piece of brass to make bass guitar bridge saddles. Now the cool part is that I got a gift package from our only other Van Norman 24 owner.


----------



## GoceKU

I've ordered this Air/fuel ratio gauge mid december of last year and have almost forgotten about it, yesterday it arrived, i call this poor men's wideband oxygen gauge, i've run this type of china cheap gauges in couple of my petrol vehicles with good success, i have a separate O2 sensor for them that they seem to like, this is the first time i'll install an air/fuel ratio gauge on a carbureted engine (Little Niva) it will be fun to see how bad the fuel is regurated by a russian copy of a solex carburator. Oh yeah it also shows voltage for couple of seconds every few minutes, and decided to show that future just as i took the picture.


----------



## jbobb1

Just placed an order for a 2 axis DRO for my lathe from DROPros.com. Had a tracking number within an hour!


----------



## GreatOldOne

My mechanical digital micrometer collection grows. 

0-25mm mitutoyo, original case and that rarest of beasts with used mics - the original spanner.


----------



## uncle harry

I ran into a friend yesterday who informed me of a sale on LED bulbs at a small Ace hardware store. 100 watt equivalent warm white color temp. I bought the limit per customer which was 25. The were sale priced at 25 cents each!


----------



## jwmay

I learned today that I’m a sucker for pretty much any machine. I brought this sewing machine home and spent a few hours trying to figure out how it operates. Great fun!  Ended up running some pretty ugly stitches I guess they’re called.  I can’t say I “needed” a sewing machine, but I did get a couple hours of fun out of it so far. Sadly, the internet is a little more stingy when it comes to manuals for sewing machines. I don’t expect anybody is interested in this purchase, so off I go.


----------



## PHPaul

@jwmay - You're not the only one.  I picked this one up at Goodwill for $7.00 intending to strip it for parts for scrap art.  Got curious, cleaned it up and lubed it, made the odd adjustment here and there and it sews perfectly.

Couldn't bring myself to destroy it, but I don't need a sewing machine either, so donated it to a "lending library".  They have all sorts of things like telescopes and microscopes that they lend out and said they'd love to have the machine.


----------



## Janderso

I learned two things about sewing machines, they like to be clean and oiled.
Long story, in 1983, I went to New York, to the garment section. Bought a, Brother's industrial sewing machine, took a taxi to Laguardia and flew it to Port-au-Prince to the factory I worked in.
Beautiful machines.


----------



## DiscoDan

Hit a local Baltimore industrial/architectural  salvage spot yesterday to get my birthday gift from my wife. Picked up a hand made tool chest and a few machining books. The tool chest was marked by the maker and I am doing research on him. Name was Clarence W. Itneyer and he died in 1985 at age 85 according to online records.


----------



## HBilly1022

I traded in my old open station tractor for this one.






We've been having a real cold spell here, with temps dropping to -30C overnight. It sure is a LOT nicer to be sitting inside a heated cab than sittiing in the open, all bundled up and still freezing. I now look forward to moving the snow around, all toasty warm and listening to my favorite music.

I can even do it at night, since this thing has lights all over the place.


----------



## PHPaul

I hear ya.  I went from this ^^^






To this.

Of course, we haven't had a decent winter in terms of snow accumulation since.

Fine by me...


----------



## Cadillac

Picked up a Demagnetizers from a auction on Friday. Had to clean her up to be presentable.





 She was dirty. Ended up cutting a piece of plastic to cover the top so when it sucks in the part unexpectedly I don’t scratch up the nice ground surface. This thing works pretty darn good I did acouple cutters I had lying around and after acouple slwipes I dropped in a pile of grinding dust and not a spec on the cutter.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

Today, I bought wire & lugs to finish out my lathe. It really pays to shop around. I like to 1 stop shop if possible. Not today. The places that sell terminal connecters (lugs) want over $2 per foot for 12 gauge SIS wire. So, I found a reasonable ($0.27 per ft) source for wire & they don't sell lugs. All in all glad I saved over $200. 

Now what came in today, is a good selection of nuts & washers from no6 to 1/4. I had to pad the order to get free shipping - so an assortment of keystock it was.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by a friend to buy couple of LPG valves, left one is for the gas and has a new filter fitted, the other is for shutting off the fuel to the carburetor, i have couple spare valves but all different makers, i wanted to use all Lovato parts so it will be easier to get the LPG conversion sirdifield i also pick up some oil to do an oil change on the Little Niva when i get the engine back together.


----------



## mickri

I found a machinist level in a thrift store for $10.  Couldn't pass it up for that price.



As you can see it is "T" shaped.  I have thought about cutting it in two and having two levels.  That is probably a bad idea that I will regret once I do it.  Going to have to relevel my lathe.  The lathe is just slightly out of level both fore and aft and athwart ship


----------



## darkzero

Picked up a bunch of these long reach markers from my local Travers (and for my brothers). Never knew these things existed. These would have came in handy so many times in the past. They're on sale this month at Travers.


----------



## Robo_Pi

I really splurged today and bought three new tools.  Actually 5 if you count the fly cutters separately.  

I bought a set of 3 fly cutters from Amazon for my mill:







I bought a live center for my for my lathe, also from Amazon:






And I bought a premium membership to Hobby Machinists forum:







Now I'm broke.


----------



## PHPaul

@Robo_Pi - I'd be interested in your feed back on those fly cutters once you get a chance to use them.  I've been contemplating buying a set.


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

PHPaul said:


> @Robo_Pi - I'd be interested in your feed back on those fly cutters once you get a chance to use them.  I've been contemplating buying a set.



Making one is a fun project.


----------



## Robo_Pi

PHPaul said:


> @Robo_Pi - I'd be interested in your feed back on those fly cutters once you get a chance to use them.  I've been contemplating buying a set.



I'll most likely post a thread in the "_What did you do in your shop today?_" forum when I use them for the first time.



MAKEITOUTOFWOOD said:


> Making one is a fun project.



The one you made looks to be very high quality.  Good job!


----------



## PHPaul

MAKEITOUTOFWOOD said:


> Making one is a fun project.



My skills don't extend that far quite yet.  A man's got to know his limitations...


----------



## GoceKU

Today i went and visited the tool/flea market, some new venders some old. The first thing i bought is this finger belt sender, made by black & decker, should come in handy, then i bought this 1/2 coll threading tap, used but still sharp, got some windscreen wipers for the Little Niva, and found spare set of tail shafts for the Niva, both front and rear, looks like some one had left over paint and painted them i also pick this diesel burner, is build like a tank i had to use my dolly to move it and the rear driveshaft, not a bad trip the driveshafts alone wore a bargain plus the little belt sender made this a very good trip.


----------



## C-Bag

Last night while finishing up a project the neighbors son saw my garage lights on and came to ask if I wanted a hunk of aluminum. He had bought a high end router and it was mounted to this "jig" for routing the plug jack on an electric guitar body. I said I'd take a look as I can't turn down shiny stuff. I took one look and said yes! This is a helluva jig for one operation! It looks to be for Stratocaster style body. The fitting is for vacuum to hold the body in place while you use the router. Lots of nice fittings too. Don't know how the spring attaches but the arm has an eccentric with nylon. For free whatchagonnado?


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by the hardware store to buy some sandpaper for my DA sander, i also bought some leather welding gloves and a door lock cylinder, i need those supplies to work on the little niva.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i needed a specific threading tap that i did not have, so i visited the tool/flea market first i found the tap i needed, it has been used and modified to fit in a chuck but is still sharp, then i found and bought this pressure washer rotating brush, i think is more for carpet washing then vehicles but for 5$ i couldn't pass on it, then i stumbled on two more Lada carburetors, very dirty but still in good condition and at 6$ for both i bought them as well, a mount ago i was looking for them and can't find any now they are everywhere, that remanded be on my way back i stopped by a car parts store and bought two fuel filters a screen one and an very fine one, they are see thru plastic, which i don't like but they are the only ones they had, i also picked up couple of ground connectors that i did not have.


----------



## coherent

Ordered a new Siglent 200MHz Digital Ocilloscope and a function generator. I've always tinkered with electronics and since I haven't electrocuted myself yet (at least not fatally)  it's just one of those things I want to learn more about and how to use for building and troubleshooting electronics... figured you gotta have one to learn.


----------



## coherent

PHPaul said:


> I hear ya.  I went from this ^^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this.
> 
> Of course, we haven't had a decent winter in terms of snow accumulation since.
> 
> Fine by me...



I bought a Branson a couple years ago.  I think everyone should have a t least one tractor with a front end loader... doesn't matter where you live (even an apartment) ya just need to have one!


----------



## BGHansen

Not all today, stuff over the last month.  Couple of themes here:  small hole gauges and screw machine drill bits for starters.

Small hole gauges either have a full ball on the end or a half ball.  Don't know why they have two styles other than the half-ball could get closer to the bottom of a blind hole.  I have a set of Starrett 829 and 830 (full and half) but have measuring tools in a cabinet at the mills, so picked up more sets for outfitting my two lathes.

Picked up a Mitutoyo set missing one gauge, so picked up some loose Lufkin's which filled the gap.  The Mitutoyo set also included a couple of Starrett's and a radius gauge holder.






Pick up a couple of Lufkin 78 full half-ball sets with a bonus Starrett





Lastly, a couple of import full-ball ones



Picked up some spare screw machine length drill bits.  Smarter person would keep from smoking the drill bits . . .







I have a Grizzly G0709 14x40 lathe and a Clausing 5418.  I leave a 5-C collet chuck on the Clausing and a set-tru 3-jaw on the Grizzly.  The Grizzly has a 1/64" set of collets, Clausing had just a 1/32" set.  So, bought a 72-hole collet rack and the "tweener" 1/64" collets to outfit the Clausing.  No more walking 4 feet to grab a 'tweener from the Grizzly set.

72-hole collet rack, ~$40 off eBay



1/64" range of collets off eBay for ~$200 delivered





G0709 set up



Clausing before and after.  Might do some more collet labeling.  Most of my work involves even 1/16" or 1/8" collets, so have those rows labeled.





Bruce


----------



## cathead

coherent said:


> Ordered a new Siglent 200MHz Digital Ocilloscope and a function generator. I've always tinkered with electronics and since I haven't electrocuted myself yet (at least not fatally)  it's just one of those things I want to learn more about and how to use for building and troubleshooting electronics... figured you gotta have one to learn.
> 
> View attachment 288661




I have the same one, an excellent diagnostic tool!


----------



## PHPaul

coherent said:


> I bought a Branson a couple years ago.  I think everyone should have a t least one tractor with a front end loader... doesn't matter where you live (even an apartment) ya just need to have one!



I live on 4 acres.  At one point I had four tractors, if you count my John Deere LX178 lawn tractor.  The Kubota, a Pasquali 986, and a 1938 Farmall F14.  Told the wife "One tractor per acre is about right..."


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by the tool/flea market, first thing i found is this new 400A contactor, very dusty but never used it was 1$ at that price i could not pass on it, from the same seller i also bought 3 all different colors wiring insulation tapes also 1$, then couple of rows down i bought this garage light, new for 1$ also, last thing i bought was this generator pull start also new at 5$, a cheap trip with some very useful items.


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

I am pretty stocked about this. Bought a Fray type 4 head with a 3 phase 1-1/2 hp motor for my Fray mill. My mill has a type c head that uses #7 b&s taper. The type 4 uses 30 taper. This will expand the capability of my machine by leaps and bounds.


----------



## DiscoDan

Just got back from the tool hoarder estate sale Phase 3. Bought 26 5C collets, all new, a mix of MHC, Lyndex and Hardinge. The Lyndex are all for square stock. Also bought a sweet B&S 13" height gauge and a brand new/unused Workhorse power feed. I may head back tomorrow to look through the rack of rough cut lumber and maybe a few more tools.


----------



## Robo_Pi

I just picked up a gasoline powered tool cart for $300.  I'll be driving it around this summer to see what kind of tools I can bring home in it.


----------



## Superburban

GoceKU said:


> Today i stopped by the tool/flea market,



Man, I wish the drive was not so far, I would love to hit the flea markets there. I'm jealous.


----------



## GoceKU

Superburban said:


> Man, I wish the drive was not so far, I would love to hit the flea markets there. I'm jealous.



There is lots of junk, on those markets, and the ones i'm visiting ant the biggest or the best but there is always a jam waiting for very little money. The prices are very low, mostly because there is no tax or sale records, also the very low monthly income of the entire population makes the prices very low. T.e. average monthly pay is 2-300$ so do the math and the living cost are as rest of europe.


----------



## BGHansen

Few eBay and other internet purchases.  Got some more 1/4" hex to 1/4"; 3/8"; 1/2" square adapters including some wobble-ends.

Pick up a Starrett metric screw pitch gauge.  Some 1/8" thick x 3/8" diameter rare-earth magnets.  Plan for them is to make some parallel holders for my mills.  I thought I had some wobble extensions but can't find them, so eBay and China to the rescue . . .  

Bought a pair of urethane band saw tires for my Craftsman 12" wood band saw.  I've had the saw for around 35 years and the tires were really loose.  I'd gorilla glued them on, but time for a replacement set.

I'm fond of the Milwaukee M12 line of 12V li-ion battery tools, decent battery life/torque/weight ratio.  Picked up a 3/8" drive right angle drill/driver.

Lastly, a QRA (quill right angle?) attachment for my Brideport's Quillmaster.  The QRA has an input shaft that slips into the Quillmaster collet.  My assumption is I'll need to make a thin wrench to fit the nut for tightening the collet of the Quillmaster.  The wrench will slip through the slot on the back of the QRA.  The QRA has a machined "L" on either side which I assume is used to square up or reference angle the center of the shaft.

Bruce

More 1/4" hex adapters



Metric thread screw pitch gauge



magnets for a parallel keeper project



wobble extensions



replacement urethane wheels for my wood band saw



Milwaukee 3/8" 12V right angle drill/driver





Bridgeport Quillmaster QRA right angle adapter


----------



## hman

I used to have a BUNCH of Makita 9.6 volt tools, including a nice right angle drill/driver.  Batteries were slowly getting to be an issue, and I was glad to find the M12 equivalent a couple of months ago.  Love it!   I now have three M12 tools, including their superb little vacuum cleaner.








						Milwaukee M12 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless Compact Vacuum (Tool-Only) 0850-20 - The Home Depot
					

The M12 Compact Vacuum provides more power to clean anywhere. A high performance motor delivers maximum suction for a wide range of construction materials, such as wood chips and metal shavings. With up to 29-minutes of run-time on a single charge, the M12 Compact Vacuum can be used for spot...



					www.homedepot.com
				




Having long since replaced the rest of the Makita 9.6V drill/drivers with Makita 18V equivalents, I was _almost_ down to just having two flavors of batteries to keep track of.  The exception was the one remaining 9.6V Makita - a mini wood/tile saw.  It came in handy many times and I was reluctant to part with it.  Nobody else offers a 3 ½" saw.  But then I took a second look at the M12 mini-saw, which uses a 3" blade.  








						Milwaukee M12 FUEL 12V Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 3 in. Cut Off Saw (Tool-Only) 2522-20 - The Home Depot
					

The M12 FUEL 3 in. Compact Cut Off Tool delivers multi-material cutting capability in an ergonomic package, optimized for 1-handed use. Spinning at 20,000 RPM and featuring a POWERSTATE Brushless Motor,



					www.homedepot.com
				




Bought one a couple days ago, and was happy to discover that the boss on which the blade guard is mounted is the same diameter as the one on the Mkaita.  So I was able to move the guard from one saw to the other.  The blade hub of the M12 is smaller than that of the Makita, so I turned a new blade retainer with a slightly raised center, to hold the nice carbide tipped wood blades I had on hand.  Now I have a Franken-saw, that lets me use either the Makita or the Milwaukee blades, as well as simplifying my battery charging "inventory".  Over the next day or so I'll cut down a piece of angle iron to make a shoe for the saw when it's in Makita mode.  I can switch back to the original blade guard and shoe pretty quickly (four T8 Torx screws).


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by the tool/flea market, and had to park close to a mile from the market, but there was couple of things to buy, first i bought a roll of speaker wire for 2$, then i bought the twin die holder with couple dies for 1$, also couple of bigger drill bits for 50 cents each, and a very good quality set of taps, with couple of drill bit missing for 10$, also bought a new truck mud flap for 2$, and the big buy for the day was this Air compressor for 35$, very cheap but seems very slow to build up pressure, i bought it in preparation for painting the Little Niva.


----------



## Cadillac

Got a super deal on some Sopko grinding hubs for the surface grinder. I like balancing my wheels and leave them. I have enough now I think to never have to change a wheel till it’s done.


----------



## Logan 400

I bought this Kennedy box at a yard sale. It's used, a little perforated and abused but with a little TLC it will work for me. I think it's well worth the 40.00 I paid.
Jay


----------



## GoceKU

Today after work, i stopped by the hardware shop, and picked up some hi temp paint for the exhaust, also stopped by a local junkyard to look for some round solid material for machining but he had send it all to be melted yesterday, i did manage to find and buy couple of pieces of stainless pipe, an EGR cooler that looks like a good small engine muffler or exhaust heater and some silicone vacum line, all in 2$.


----------



## fernballan

You know youve become old when you need to bay indicators that are big as big ben. Im geting 54 years to day 10 more years i get to drink how much beer i want















Skickat från min G3311 via Tapatalk


----------



## PHPaul

Finally found a steadrest for my Seneca Falls Star lathe on Fee Bay that wasn't all beat to crap or priced into the stratosphere.  Came very well packed and in good shape.  Just need to fabricate a bottom clamp for it.


----------



## Janderso

Finally puller the trigger on a 10" 4 jaw Bison D1-6 chuck.
I have been looking and looking. MSC has a 25% off promo for the next week or so.
Got it shipped to my door step for under $850.
I found some Gators but they were cast iron bodies. I can't run cast iron on the Clausing.





						4 Jaws, 10" Diam, Independent Manual Lathe 08564569 - MSC
					

Discover Bison Manual Lathe Chucks at MSC Industrial Supply. Over 1 million products that ship and deliver fast




					www.mscdirect.com
				




"""The price of this product reflects recent increases in trade tariffs. Need help finding an alternative not impacted by a tariff? Give one of our customer care experts a call @ 1-866-298-0617. """"

It looks like Polish made goods are not affected by the tariffs. I saw this warning message on plenty of their products of late.


----------



## Janderso

Cadillac said:


> Got a super deal on some Sopko grinding hubs for the surface grinder. I like balancing my wheels and leave them. I have enough now I think to never have to change a wheel till it’s done.
> View attachment 290219



I need some. Any more of these out there?


----------



## Cadillac

Jeff you won’t be disappointed on the chuck. I picked one up last year but a d1-4 mount and it is a pleasure to use. As for hubs I hawked eBay for awhile. Found one guy awhile ago and got acouple. This last guy had a super deal 5 for 100 shipped. If only I could find integrated balancing hubs those get pricey. I’m not in the market anymore so check eBay I won’t snipe them.


----------



## eugene13

Two 54.000 uF capacitors for one of my welders.


----------



## Firstram

fernballan said:


> You know youve become old when you need to bay indicators that are big as big ben. Im geting 54 years to day 10 more years i get to drink how much beer i want
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skickat från min G3311 via Tapatalk


 Gorgeous! Much nicer than the one I have.


----------



## darkzero

BNIB Mitu depth gauge. I certainly didn't need it as I have the prev gen but the price was right & I couldn't resist.





Tabletop pan & box brake. Just an import but it will be perfectly fine for me. Excellent price with a GC & recent ebay flash sale. Gave up looking for a Di-Acro.





And a custom box made by a H-M member for my Mitu level.


----------



## mmcmdl

GoceKU said:


>



Never in my life have I ever seen a twin die holder .


----------



## PHPaul

@darkzero - I'd be VERY interested in your opinion/experience with the KAKA brake.  I've been resisting the urge to grab one.


----------



## Nogoingback

PHPaul said:


> @darkzero - I'd be VERY interested in your opinion/experience with the KAKA brake.  I've been resisting the urge to grab one.




I'm interested as well.  A review would be nice...


----------



## hman

Ya, mee too.  It would take up about half the space of the one I've been considering:
file:///Users/hman/Desktop/48%22%20Pan%20and%20Box%20Finger%20Brake%20-%2016%20Gauge%20650.00%20-%20tools%20-%20by%20dealer%20-%20sale.webarchive
This one showed up on the local Craigslist, though they're in the Sandy Eggo area.  The said they'd ship for $100.


----------



## Manderioli

Decided to fill a void in my shop with a new finger nail trimmer. 

Picked up the benchmaster 132 (2ton) press punch with stand for $140.


----------



## NCjeeper

PHPaul said:


> @darkzero - I'd be VERY interested in your opinion/experience with the KAKA brake.  I've been resisting the urge to grab one.


Me too. I have their roller and it works pretty well.


----------



## NCjeeper

I finally scored a honking vise for the shop. Mountain Dew can for scale.


----------



## GoceKU

NCjeeper, nice looking vice, you better bolt it down, you'll feel it, if it fell on your feet, don't ask how i know.


----------



## NCjeeper

Thanks. Getting ready to drill some holes right now.


----------



## hman

Kinda silly, and off topic ... but I recall several Craigslist ads for vises over the years.  Those that included cans for scale all seemed to use Mountain Dew.  Can't recall any with a Pepsi or 7-Up can.  Strange, eh wot?


----------



## jdedmon91

NCjeeper said:


> I finally scored a honking vise for the shop. Mountain Dew can for scale.
> View attachment 290484



Nice find buddy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NCjeeper

Thanks Jim. It was up Mike's way and he brought it down for me.


----------



## darkzero

PHPaul said:


> @darkzero - I'd be VERY interested in your opinion/experience with the KAKA brake.  I've been resisting the urge to grab one.





Nogoingback said:


> I'm interested as well.  A review would be nice...





hman said:


> Ya, mee too.  It would take up about half the space of the one I've been considering:
> file:///Users/hman/Desktop/48%22%20Pan%20and%20Box%20Finger%20Brake%20-%2016%20Gauge%20650.00%20-%20tools%20-%20by%20dealer%20-%20sale.webarchive
> This one showed up on the local Craigslist, though they're in the Sandy Eggo area.  The said they'd ship for $100.





NCjeeper said:


> Me too. I have their roller and it works pretty well.



I don't really do reviews but I might post a little something about it after I make a base plate for it. So far I'm pretty happy with it, especially for the price I paid. Been eyeing it for a while & waiting for a sale. I've never had anything else so nothing to compare to besides a little 8" Grizzly unit.

Well packaged, secure in the crate. Fed-Ex left it on my door step on it's side. Can easily tell which way was supposed to be up yet they decide to just lay it down on it's side. I hate Fed-Ex!

Sorry about the rant. Yeah so no damage, no rust, nothing worth noting. Just a small paint chip on the front. Made in China, I originally thought it may have been India. I have a hand shear from them, also no complaints & has been working well for me. Really the only reason I buy from them is the name, well price too. We all know what the word means universally, it's an inside joke for me.


----------



## DiscoDan

hman said:


> Kinda silly, and off topic ... but I recall several Craigslist ads for vises over the years.  Those that included cans for scale all seemed to use Mountain Dew.  Can't recall any with a Pepsi or 7-Up can.  Strange, eh wot?



I saw something on TV the other day that said Mountain Dew was created as a mixer for moonshine.


----------



## NCjeeper

hman said:


> Kinda silly, and off topic ... but I recall several Craigslist ads for vises over the years.  Those that included cans for scale all seemed to use Mountain Dew.  Can't recall any with a Pepsi or 7-Up can.  Strange, eh wot?


Because Mountain Dew is the nectar of the gods.


----------



## Meta Key

darkzero said:


> I don't really do reviews but I might post a little something about it after I make a base plate for it.



Add me to the list of interested parties.  I could really use a little metal brake -- 12" would be ideal.

I see that Eastwood is selling a similar brake for $225:  Eastwood 12" Metal Brake

About twice a year I end up bending some aluminum sheet between tooling plates stuck in my bench vise and am usually semi-happy with the result.  That little brake looks like it would be a big step up for me.  I'd be interested in your thoughts after you've used the thing a few times.

Thanks!
MetaKey


----------



## rdean

These arrived yesterday and was I surprised. 
I didn't expect too much for $40.00 but thought they would be good enough for my sander project.
The two rails are almost 4 feet long with four bearing blocks.
The fit and movement is very nice and they arrived two days early from California.




Ray


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Not really the place for it, but Mt Dew has a history back to about 1964, give or take. It started out as "Kickapoo Joy Juice", then the owners of the cartoon strip Lil Abner threw a fit about copyright influence. I don't know if the actual artist got involved, or if it was the syndicate that owned the rights to the strip.
     The end result was using the common expression for moonshine. Of course, being over 50 years ago, most folks today haven't even heard of mountain dew used in that context. I say 1964 as the transition date because I remember Kickapoo Joy Juice disappearing from store shelves at the same time as Mt Dew showed up. It tasted exactly the same and came in bottles of the same design. Of course, in those days the bottles were glass, there was none if this plastic crap. As I recall, it was more like Upper-10 than anything, with a smoother taste. 
    Not really relevent to machinery, beyond the extensive use thereof. But an interesting historical note. It did taste much worse after the introduction of corn sweetener.
Bill Hudson​


----------



## Buffalo21

NCjeeper said:


> Because Mountain Dew is the nectar of the gods.



That it is, I really really like the original and the Code Red, but some of the other flavors are horrid.


----------



## Janderso

The Bison 4 jaw is mounted.
It’s been a while since I have used a 4 jaw. Like riding a bike.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

When I need something I often become a collector. My latest collection is files. I've bought & used files as far back as I can remember - File is even the 1st  tool I taught my son! Was able to buy up some NOS lots that will fill my needs for years to come. The 5 on the right are shot - some gambles are like that. But the boxes of NOS 3 & 4 square are so worth having!


----------



## C-Bag

I don't often find anything worth the extra kick most antique stores want for their tools but I've found one fairly close that I always seem to find something cheap. This was in the very last case as I was almost out the door empty handed. I've seen and used a larger one for spacing rivets, but never one this small. Turns out it's called a "diequal drafting tool". There has been so many times I was laying out multiple holes and wished I had something like this.


----------



## rdean

I bought 1 piece of sand paper at the flee market today.  Actually a sanding belt.




The belt is 52" X 103" 120 grit made by 3M for $20.

I'm happy
Ray


----------



## C-Bag

I had to do a double take, 52"W! That's crazy to find one like that period in a flea mkt in the first place isn't it?


----------



## rdean

One of the vendors said he had some large sanding belts at his home when I asked yesterday.  He called me today to come look at it and I went right down to the market.  He even threw in two pieces of 2 1/2" X 9' long sanding belts to sweeten the deal.  
I will be going back to him in the future.

Ray


----------



## Firstram

That's a score!


----------



## foleda

Rural Missouri is a good place to be if you are looking for farm equipment but not no much for finding machine tools.  Last week, however, the stars aligned and I found these at an estate sale about 10 miles from home.


----------



## GrayTech

rdean said:


> I bought 1 piece of sand paper at the flee market today. Actually a sanding belt.
> 
> View attachment 291091
> 
> 
> The belt is 52" X 103" 120 grit made by 3M for $20.
> 
> I'm happy
> Ray


You could run that on a treadmill.


----------



## coherent

Bought a bandsaw sawmill and just finishing assembly. Shipping crate weighed 1050lbs. 14hp Kohler and as it's set up can handle 14 ft by 31" dia logs. A fellow forum member "made" me want one of these. Don't think I really "need" a sawmill, but think it's a really cool tool anyway.


----------



## Janderso

Do you live on acerage with lots of trees to process?
What you gonna do with it?
I've seen videos on those, pretty slick.


----------



## Firstram

coherent said:


> Don't think I really "need" a sawmill



Everyone needs a sawmill.


----------



## f350ca

Congratulations !
You don't need to live on an acreage to own a mill. I only have 2 acres her and probably saw a couple of thousand feet  year from salvaged logs.

Greg


----------



## mmcmdl

foleda said:


> Last week, however, the stars aligned



Bet that's a real Hartford head . Nice find along with the mill and sg .


----------



## darkzero

mmcmdl said:


> Bet that's a real Hartford head



That would be an even nicer score but I don't think Hartford SSs ever had black ball knobs on the levers.


----------



## mmcmdl

Now HOW did you see that ????? 

I had a hard time just seeing the MILL !


----------



## coherent

Janderso said:


> Do you live on acerage with lots of trees to process?
> What you gonna do with it?
> I've seen videos on those, pretty slick.



Nope. I was more interested in the woodworking advantages it can provide. (and the fun using it). Nice to be able to create wide boards and just about any custom thickness yourself. Stuff you can't buy in the box stores or woodworkers supply stores. Live edge stuff (for mantles and table tops etc) is pretty popular now days and not available from other than custom mills.  Also, I'm in Northern Arizona and most folks don't realize that it contains the largest Ponderosa Pine forest in the world and thinning projects are pretty continious so logs are available if you track them down. I have about nine free 40-50 foot pines recently cut down and available right now. Lots of Juniper (cedar) also but it doesn't get very big or grow in large diameters and yoiu have to own the property but you can also get a dead and standing permit during the summer and fall months for just a few dollars.   I found the real work is getting the log loaded and home to the mill, then on the mill bed to process. Even a short log (8-9 feet long and 22-24 inches in diameter) is going to weigh a thousand pounds or more. Not something you and a buddy can just toss in the back of your pickup to haul home.  I'd sure rather see a log made into something that may last for years than just burned as firewood.


----------



## C-Bag

My brother moved to rural NW Pennsylvania a couple of years ago. He bought one of the HF mills and uses it constantly. He's blown away with the cheap lumber he gets for free or next to nothing. He says the yards he knows hate pine and treat it like toxic waste and he can get all he wants for free. He has a car trailer and Kubota 4wd tractor that he uses to haul the logs and the 3pt to load the logs in the mill. He was able to completely ship lap panel the inside of his small detached garage/shop last year with free pine logs. Sounds nice.


----------



## coherent

Rural NW Pennsylvania would be the perfect place to own a small mill.  I have Branson 4wd tractor with a front end loader and it makes things a whole lot easier.  My back is too old to do this stuff without it.


----------



## C-Bag

No, your back is too smart, not old. There is no horsing 1,000lbs+ logs. There a reason why logging is still the most dangerous job.


----------



## BGHansen

Pick ups over a few weeks.  At last count I had no fewer than 5 different cordless tool makes/battery chargers in my shop.  I really like the Milwaukee M12 cordless system and am starting to downsize to 2 or 3 battery styles.  The M12 doesn't have as much juice as the M18, but the 3/8" driver on drill will twist your wrist plenty hard.

Used 3/8" drill driver, 1/4" impact, charger and 2 batteries off eBay for $51



Couple of duffel bags



Standard M12 batteries are I think 1.5 Ah, these are 6.0 Ah, not too bad for weight at 4x the capacity



Picked up 4 2.5 Ah batteries for under $10 each delivered



3/8" square drive impact



1/4" hex screwdriver



Don't remember what I was putting together, but couldn't get in with a cordless drill so ended up hand driving the fasteners.  Picked up a couple of 105 deg. angle heads.



Picked up a set of hardness checking files for a pretty good price (?) at $10 including shipping





Picked up some metric dial test indicators, Interapid, Mitutoyo and a Fowler.  Not afraid of getting the BTW you suck post, so won't brag about the price (OK, $10 total . . .).  Alas, no case for the Interapid but they're available off eBay.









I have a 6" Starrett precision level which is probably "good enough" for my lathe work.  Think the longest between centers I've ever turned is about 1'.  However, couldn't pass on this Starrett No. 199 15" for $5. 

I haven't checked it for level yet, assume the best way is to set it on a level flat surface like a surface plate and check the bubble position.  Then turn it 180 deg. and see if the bubble is at the same spot.  Adjust as necessary so it reads the same spot when turned at 180's.










Bruce


----------



## uncle harry

BGHansen said:


> Pick ups over a few weeks.  At last count I had no fewer than 5 different cordless tool makes/battery chargers in my shop.  I really like the Milwaukee M12 cordless system and am starting to downsize to 2 or 3 battery styles.  The M12 doesn't have as much juice as the M18, but the 3/8" driver on drill will twist your wrist plenty hard.
> 
> Used 3/8" drill driver, 1/4" impact, charger and 2 batteries off eBay for $51
> View attachment 291507
> 
> 
> Couple of duffel bags
> View attachment 291508
> 
> 
> Standard M12 batteries are I think 1.5 Ah, these are 6.0 Ah, not too bad for weight at 4x the capacity
> View attachment 291509
> 
> 
> Picked up 4 2.5 Ah batteries for under $10 each delivered
> View attachment 291511
> 
> 
> 3/8" square drive impact
> View attachment 291512
> 
> 
> Don't remember what I was putting together, but couldn't get in with a cordless drill so ended up hand driving the fasteners.  Picked up a couple of 105 deg. angle heads.
> View attachment 291513
> 
> 
> Picked up a set of hardness checking files for a pretty good price (?) at $10 including shipping
> View attachment 291514
> 
> View attachment 291515
> 
> 
> Picked up some metric dial test indicators, Interapid, Mitutoyo and a Fowler.  Not afraid of getting the BTW you suck post, so won't brag about the price (OK, $10 total . . .).  Alas, no case for the Interapid but they're available off eBay.
> View attachment 291516
> 
> View attachment 291517
> 
> View attachment 291518
> 
> View attachment 291519
> 
> 
> I have a 6" Starrett precision level which is probably "good enough" for my lathe work.  Think the longest between centers I've ever turned is about 1'.  However, couldn't pass on this Starrett No. 199 15" for $5.
> 
> I haven't checked it for level yet, assume the best way is to set it on a level flat surface like a surface plate and check the bubble position.  Then turn it 180 deg. and see if the bubble is at the same spot.  Adjust as necessary so it reads the same spot when turned at 180's.
> 
> View attachment 291520
> 
> 
> View attachment 291521
> 
> 
> View attachment 291522
> 
> 
> Bruce



I'm tempted to say "outer space is a vacuum because you suck". Amazing score!


----------



## C-Bag

uncle harry said:


> I'm tempted to say "outer space is a vacuum because you suck". Amazing score!


What a haul Bruce! As usual I hear about something I've never heard of before. I would love to hear about your experience with the hardness files. I gotta say the 199 for $5, are you sure all that stuff not stolen? LOL.


----------



## BGHansen

C-Bag said:


> What a haul Bruce! As usual I hear about something I've never heard of before. I would love to hear about your experience with the hardness files. I gotta say the 199 for $5, are you sure all that stuff not stolen? LOL.


The were pick ups at a shop that closed.  I missed the initial sale, the measuring tools were left over if you can believe that!  I haven't shot pictures of them yet, but also picked up a 5" sine bar about 2" wide and a 10" about 8" x 11".  No idea what I'll do with them as I have a 1" wide 5" bar I've used once.  Probably end up being more stuff for my wife to dispose of at some point.  

OK, little secret for on-line shopping, every once in a while I score.  Sellers typo the names of items.  I've found Mitutoyo, Starrett, Lufkin, Interapid, etc. stuff by searching for misspellings.  Don't strike very often, but have scored some nice stuff spelled "Starett" or "Starret".

I've got more stuff than I'll ever use so don't mind the competition.  Might reel me in a bit . . .

Bruce


----------



## BGHansen

C-Bag said:


> What a haul Bruce! As usual I hear about something I've never heard of before. I would love to hear about your experience with the hardness files. I gotta say the 199 for $5, are you sure all that stuff not stolen? LOL.


I'll let you know on the hardness files.  I have a set from Grizzly that I've never used.  We have a Rockwell hardness tester at work, so could do some comparisons at some point.  I would imagine with a little searching I could find some hardness "standards" to keep around for testing.  I'd like to have an 60 Rc (for example) chunk of tool steel around and see how it compares.

Bruce


----------



## C-Bag

A comparison test would be such a useful thing to the community Bruce. Especially against a Rockwell tester! 

I do the searches too with the misspelling too. It really makes my dummy anxiety go through roof though. It's bad enough trying to buy stuff with all these silly dealers on CL and EBay. I do still manage good deals but nothing like those indicators or that 199.


----------



## stupoty

rdean said:


> I bought 1 piece of sand paper at the flee market today.  Actually a sanding belt.
> 
> View attachment 291091
> 
> 
> The belt is 52" X 103" 120 grit made by 3M for $20.
> 
> I'm happy
> Ray


You now have the dilema of making a belt sander that size or cutting it up :0


----------



## foleda

mmcmdl said:


> Bet that's a real Hartford head . Nice find along with the mill and sg .


Not a Hartford.  No identifying marks except a discolored area in the paint which may have held a tag at one point and the serial? number 79167 stamped below the vernier.  I am assuming an Asian knock-off but it is tight and smooth so probably good enough for my level of (in)experience.  It has a 36 position plate, no others were included so I will be looking for/making a 24 and possibly a 20 position plate.

When looking at the mill I was more concerned with the lack of a vice and did not give much consideration to the spacer.

The mill is an Index Super 55 s/n 55-10024.  Seems to be in decent shape but is missing the x-axis power feed motor and drive shaft.  I am hoping that the increased rigidity will offset the limited y-travel and the lack of a ram.  I have downloaded the manual from Wells-Index.

The grinder is a  DoAll MTA-6.  I found a parts list on vintage machinery but no manual yet.  My sum total knowledge of surface grinders comes from watching a few Youtube videos so I am looking forward to learning and gaining some real experience.

Both machines are 3-phase so I now have an internal debate between 2xVFD or RPC.


----------



## DiscoDan

BGHansen said:


> The were pick ups at a shop that closed.  I missed the initial sale, the measuring tools were left over if you can believe that!  I haven't shot pictures of them yet, but also picked up a 5" sine bar about 2" wide and a 10" about 8" x 11".  No idea what I'll do with them as I have a 1" wide 5" bar I've used once.  Probably end up being more stuff for my wife to dispose of at some point.
> 
> OK, little secret for on-line shopping, every once in a while I score.  Sellers typo the names of items.  I've found Mitutoyo, Starrett, Lufkin, Interapid, etc. stuff by searching for misspellings.  Don't strike very often, but have scored some nice stuff spelled "Starett" or "Starret".
> 
> I've got more stuff than I'll ever use so don't mind the competition.  Might reel me in a bit . . .
> 
> Bruce


Bruce, you are right about the misspelling. I am in old Datsuns and every once in awhile I see some dumbarse advertising his little weiner dog. Dachshund is close to Datsuns I guess....


----------



## timpet98

barnett said:


> I scored what I think is a cast iron surface plate,  not real sure and a 6" craftsman planer
> View attachment 234341
> View attachment 234342
> View attachment 234343
> 
> The plate is 15 x 18. Also scored a Kwik-Way valve grinder,no pics yet.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Does anyone know what the maker of this cast iron surface plate is? I have one from a GM aircraft bodywork division but I can't seem to find anything else about it. I've seen other ones around but no other information.


----------



## BGHansen

Few more items.  Picked up a couple of 3/8" M12 Milwaukee Fuel ratchets; one for the house, one for the shop.  They've got some weight to them, but are variable speed and put out 55 ft. lbs. of torque.  The Fuel style means a brushless motor.  Don't think I'd use them enough to wear out the brush style, but I figure what's mine is my wife's which will become our son's.








Last of the "stuff" from the local shop that shut down.  They had a slug of DTI's, most were Federal Testmasters.  Don't know if that's good or not, but I've now got a lifetime supply.







Also grabbed a 5" x 2" sine bar/plate and an 10" x 6" sine plate.




Bruce


----------



## f350ca

That's quite a haul Bruce. Bought one of the 3/8th ratchets a year ago, they're incredible. Had an air one but the hose was always an issue not to mention having to drag the hose out.

Greg


----------



## BGHansen

f350ca said:


> That's quite a haul Bruce. Bought one of the 3/8th ratchets a year ago, they're incredible. Had an air one but the hose was always an issue not to mention having to drag the hose out.
> 
> Greg


Hi Greg,

Rare earth magnets and Li-ion batteries have really helped out the cordless tools.  I remember starter motors for a 350 V-8 Olds diesel engine being about as big as a fire extinguisher.  Now their smaller than a water bottle.  I've been really happy with the M12 system though I still use a 110V 3/8" drill at one of my lathes for a couple of projects.  I picked up one of their 3/8" impacts that puts out about 120 ft. lbs. and weighs about as much as a 3/8" butterfly impact.  Like you noted, no hose or compressor to drag around.  I've picked up 8 or 10 spare batteries for pretty cheap off eBay, have mostly the 2.5 Ah small ones but picked up a couple of large 6.0 Ah in case I'm on the roof.

Bruce


----------



## f350ca

I have the 3/8ths impact too, amazing the torque it produces. The ratchet is the only 12 v one I have the rest are 18 v. Only complaint on the lithium powered tools is the lack of warning as the battery dies, Im usually in a tight spot or up a ladder when It won't turn on. The cordless are handy but still use a corded drill if there's much drilling to be done. 

Greg


----------



## darkzero

BGHansen said:


> Hi Greg,
> 
> Rare earth magnets and Li-ion batteries have really helped out the cordless tools.  I remember starter motors for a 350 V-8 Olds diesel engine being about as big as a fire extinguisher.  Now their smaller than a water bottle.  I've been really happy with the M12 system though I still use a 110V 3/8" drill at one of my lathes for a couple of projects.  I picked up one of their 3/8" impacts that puts out about 120 ft. lbs. and weighs about as much as a 3/8" butterfly impact.  Like you noted, no hose or compressor to drag around.  I've picked up 8 or 10 spare batteries for pretty cheap off eBay, have mostly the 2.5 Ah small ones but picked up a couple of large 6.0 Ah in case I'm on the roof.
> 
> Bruce





f350ca said:


> I have the 3/8ths impact too, amazing the torque it produces. The ratchet is the only 12 v one I have the rest are 18 v. Only complaint on the lithium powered tools is the lack of warning as the battery dies, Im usually in a tight spot or up a ladder when It won't turn on. The cordless are handy but still use a corded drill if there's much drilling to be done.
> 
> Greg



I love the Milwaukee cordless stuff. The 3/8 M12 ratchet is the only M12 I have though, the rest are M18. Sadly none of my automotive air tools get used anymore but they are old now anyway. I still use the air die grinders though, cordless ones are too big & I don't ever see them getting small.

With the work I do, I've never ran out of battery in the middle of something except for my hackzall & blower. I have 5.0 batts. But I got a 9.0 batt for the blower now & hackzall I don't use that often for long periods of time.


----------



## jbobb1

Bought a 12"x12"x3" rock today. Just have to wait for delevery


----------



## francist

Spied this in our local online marketplace -- a Brown Boggs bench shear for cutting sheet metal. And in typical fashion, I found it mere days after finishing a new belt guard where I slogged thorough the whole thing using hand snips!




Oh well, now I have one. I think it's in ok shape although I have little experience with these. The drive pawl teeth are about the worst -- kind of worn -- but I'm thinking it will still perform as needed. I'm not likely to put a lot of miles on it with the minor things I do.




The neat thing about this one though is that it turns out to be from my old high school metal shop from where I graduated nearly 40 years ago! It was in the leftover bits after the larger machines got taken out and one of the guys purchased it for his own use. Never used it once. Now the old shops are gone and the spanky new school has a pathetic selection of equipment to take their place. This shear will see a few more years of service with me though, which I really like the thought of.




Thanks for looking!

-frank


----------



## BGHansen

jbobb1 said:


> Bought a 12"x12"x3" rock today. Just have to wait for delevery


Granite surface plate?


----------



## Jubil

Found this lurking in my shop a while back. Now I have to learn how to use it. It is missing some parts, (belt guard, cone pulley for flat belt table drive and the headstock.) I think it will be handy to have around.
Chuck


----------



## jbobb1

BGHansen said:


> Granite surface plate?


Yes. Got in the bad habit of calling the surface plate I used at work.


----------



## Barncat

Bought a 2 ton Gantry crane. Actually bought it a while ago, but just put it together today. I had been looking for one for a while, one ton pop up on Craigslist or auction sites regularly, but I wanted a 2 ton. I finally just decided to spend the money on a new one, it was on sale with free freight and lift gate delivery. Cheapest I have seen one in a year of looking, so I pulled the trigger. 
	

		
			
		

		
	



It was easy to put together, all bolt holes lined up,and the manufacturer even made finding matching bolts, nuts and washers easy, they put them all together,as opposed to just a giant bag of fasteners


----------



## GoceKU

It's been sometime since i've posted here, but today i took a break from working and visited the local flea market, there was some machinist tools but nothing caught my eye, but working on rust repairs this set of pliers for punching holes and making a indented edge seem like a good deal, got them for 8$, then i found this Stabila level, it is almost new and at 5$ i think it was a good deal.


----------



## Cooter Brown

I just picked up a new table for my bench grinder....




It is an Enco 36" jump shear rated for 20ga but does 18ga stainless with extra persuasion.... I traded an AR-15 pistol upper that I paid $150
for about 4 years ago... Now I'm looking for a 4" diameter pneumatic cylinder lol.....


----------



## TheGreatChinese

New lathe and mill


----------



## timpet98

Haven't quite sealed the deal yet, but checking this old mill out tomorrow, and have no info on it other than these 2 photos and that its 3 phase. It looks like a horizontal with a vertical head. Can anyone help me ID it? Really excited because its one of those deals that I keep reading about on here and I'm just over the moon that I might get my first mill! Please help me out I know if anyone knows its all of you guys out there. THANKS!!!


----------



## jdedmon91

BGHansen said:


> Granite surface plate?



I picked up Grade B from Travers tool last week. Since they have a warehouse/counter in Spartanburg I drove down and picked it up. UPS shipping was $100 more than the cost of the plate. Also I picked up a inexpensive hight stand. Plus an excuse to make a video. 





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jdedmon91

f350ca said:


> That's quite a haul Bruce. Bought one of the 3/8th ratchets a year ago, they're incredible. Had an air one but the hose was always an issue not to mention having to drag the hose out.
> 
> Greg



I picked up an Milwaukee 3/8 ratchets yesterday my self. I can’t build power drawbar for the mill, not enough ceiling hight. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Superburban

timpet98 said:


> Haven't quite sealed the deal yet, but checking this old mill out tomorrow, and have no info on it other than these 2 photos and that its 3 phase. It looks like a horizontal with a vertical head. Can anyone help me ID it? Really excited because its one of those deals that I keep reading about on here and I'm just over the moon that I might get my first mill! Please help me out I know if anyone knows its all of you guys out there. THANKS!!!


Its a Van Norman. The head rotates from vertical, to horizontal super easy. Great machines, easy to use. The only issue might be if it takes their propritery 5v or something like that collets, they can get hard to find. It could also take the NMTB 40 , or 50 tool holders, they are common. Check out the Van Norman section, tons of great info. Also the downloads has good manuals, or even google Van Norman, lots of info on the web.

I do not know the other models enough to say which it is, but look for ones with the drive shaft powering the table/ knee. Noy many did it that way.


----------



## toploader

Brand new Kennametal 3” diameter 18” long boring bar with through coolant for the Niles lathe. Under $100 off ebay.


----------



## toploader

2” end-mill holder Morse taper #6.  Can’t wait to use it on the HBM after I finish the niles lathe.  Those are cat50 tool holders next to it.


----------



## f350ca

What did I get myself into this time?

Saw one of these in a tv series, sure it was placed there and panned many times as a subliminal sales ploy.

I bit !

Its a nixie clock kit. Hate to admit but I used electronics that had these for displays. 

Interestingly none of these tubes seem to be available in North America, guess stock was purged when they became obsolete. Russia seams to have a good stock yet, this kit came from Lithuania with CCCP  proudly etched in the glass. Guess they're like me and save everything.




Greg


----------



## BGHansen

f350ca said:


> What did I get myself into this time?
> 
> Saw one of these in a tv series, sure it was placed there and panned many times as a subliminal sales ploy.
> 
> I bit !
> 
> Its a nixie clock kit. Hate to admit but I used electronics that had these for displays.
> 
> Interestingly none of these tubes seem to be available in North America, guess stock was purged when they became obsolete. Russia seams to have a good stock yet, this kit came from Lithuania with CCCP  proudly etched in the glass. Guess they're like me and save everything.
> 
> View attachment 292345
> 
> 
> Greg


Remember making a Heathkit digital clock with my dad in around 1972. I think it's still working. Enjoy!

Bruce


----------



## darkzero

f350ca said:


> What did I get myself into this time?
> 
> Saw one of these in a tv series, sure it was placed there and panned many times as a subliminal sales ploy.
> 
> I bit !
> 
> Its a nixie clock kit. Hate to admit but I used electronics that had these for displays.
> 
> Interestingly none of these tubes seem to be available in North America, guess stock was purged when they became obsolete. Russia seams to have a good stock yet, this kit came from Lithuania with CCCP  proudly etched in the glass. Guess they're like me and save everything.
> 
> View attachment 292345
> 
> 
> Greg



That looks fun! I Love soldering, I miss my old work (electronic repair) & miss modding flashlights.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i pick up some new shoes for my car.


----------



## jbobb1

Just ordered a new 10" Bison chuck for my lathe from Global Industrial.  Great price!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

got a box of 10 Kyocera PVD ceratip CCMT 21.51 inserts off Amazon for $10


----------



## darkzero

Got me a couple of marking gages. I believe they're for wood working but will work fine for my needs. Turns out these are a knock offs of the German Helios/Preisser ones which I found out after I received these. But that's ok, I still would have bought these instead.

Also got a couple pairs of discontinued Gibraltar adjustable c-clamps. Never seen anything like these before, not sure how strong they are. Should be fine for light duty.

And finally got me a refill of some more cutting fluid on sale at MSC. Figured I should buy a gallon now before they stop making it cause it's chlorinated & they have a new formula available now. I'm really happy with this stuff, used to use Tap Magic Aluminum but I can't stand that stuff anymore.


----------



## rwm

I got a pretty good price on an 8" dia bearing ring.




 It is precision ground and about 3/8" thick. I plan to use it as a mill tramming aid. I can mount an indicator in the spindle and indicate on this to avoid the Tslots. There may be more available if anyone is interested.

Robert


----------



## rwm

f350ca said:


> What did I get myself into this time?
> 
> Saw one of these in a tv series, sure it was placed there and panned many times as a subliminal sales ploy.
> 
> I bit !
> 
> Its a nixie clock kit. Hate to admit but I used electronics that had these for displays.
> 
> Interestingly none of these tubes seem to be available in North America, guess stock was purged when they became obsolete. Russia seams to have a good stock yet, this kit came from Lithuania with CCCP  proudly etched in the glass. Guess they're like me and save everything.
> 
> Greg



I have a Nixie clock and I love it! Buy a coulple extra tubes if you can. They burn out occasionally.
Robert


----------



## roadie33

Needed to replace the Woodworking band saw that died on me last year.
Grizzly had a sale on the 14" saws a few weeks ago so I ordered one.
I just got it set up and added a retractable caster set I had on hand.
Makes storing it out of the way easier since I don't use it everyday.
This is a nice band saw and needed very little adjusting.


----------



## Ken from ontario

A 14" bandsaw is one tool every hobbyist must have , it is so versatile, it cuts all sorts of materials ,it is inexpensive to buy, easy to set up, parts are readily available, doesn't take too much floor space,  it is a great buy all around.


----------



## Nogoingback

Garage sale stuff today: the son of a tool and die maker was selling off the contents of his Dad's shop.
They had already sold a lot of stuff so it was picked over already, but prices were good.  Huot box
packed with number drills for 6 bucks, a 1/2 Jacobs chuck for $25.00, some parallels for $4.00. HSS tools,
the snugs and the hacksaw added up to $15.00.  I think I did OK.

Any of you folks around Portland might want to head out there.   Still had lots of drills, taps, boxes of new cemented
carbide tools, and so forth.  He had a set of what I think were ER 40 collet chucks, some big boring bars, 
boxes of carbide inserts and tool holders for the mill.   









						machinist tools
					

as one passes on, so his tools , we have brazed carbide lath tools , boring bars, carbide insert cutters, taps, drills, drill chucks, tool collets , fly cutters , ,and much more, if interested call...



					portland.craigslist.org


----------



## darkzero

rwm said:


> I got a pretty good price on an 8" dia bearing ring.
> 
> View attachment 292449
> 
> 
> It is precision ground and about 3/8" thick. I plan to use it as a mill tramming aid. I can mount an indicator in the spindle and indicate on this to avoid the Tslots. There may be more available if anyone is interested.
> 
> Robert



Nice! I'd be interested in one. Could you send me the details? Thanks


----------



## mksj

Narex  Vhu 1 3/8" (travel) boring and facing head with R-8 arbor. Not too often that you need a facing or larger boring head, but if the project is too large for the lathe, being able to bore/face/groove on the mill is nice. Checked to see what comes up occasionally over the years, most are usually too big, too expensive and often in not so good condition when the price is affordable. Wouldn't have minded getting the next size up, but the condition and price of this one was hard to pass up. It is also a more current style with replaceable carbide inserts. I have a 2" boring head, this one is 3" and with the extension you can bore to a 9" diameter.


----------



## vocatexas

I've been using a Central Machine horizontal/vertical band saw I got at an estate sale for a couple of years, but I've been looking for an old Craftsman horizontal. The CM just won't make a straight vertical cut no matter how much I adjust it. I finally found an old Craftsman. It's totally encrusted in dirt and crud, but it's all there minus a set of tires. I can't wait to get it cleaned up and running. 

*I'd post photos but I still haven't been able to figure out how to upload them here. Maybe soon...


----------



## mmcmdl

mksj said:


> Narex Vhu 1 3/8" (travel) boring and facing head with R-8 arbor.



NICE ! I've got the identical set . It's one of those tools I just can't let go of .


----------



## jbobb1

mksj said:


> Narex  Vhu 1 3/8" (travel) boring and facing head with R-8 arbor. Not too often that you need a facing or larger boring head, but if the project is too large for the lathe, being able to bore/face/groove on the mill is nice. Checked to see what comes up occasionally over the years, most are usually too big, too expensive and often in not so good condition when the price is affordable. Wouldn't have minded getting the next size up, but the condition and price of this one was hard to pass up. It is also a more current style with replaceable carbide inserts. I have a 2" boring head, this one is 3" and with the extension you can bore to a 9" diameter.
> 
> View attachment 292486
> 
> 
> View attachment 292487



I can't count the number of times I wish I had this tool!
Very nice!


----------



## GoceKU

I've been looking to buy couple of front wing side indicators, for the Little Niva and today i finally found and bought a pair, those cars are notorious for rusting at them and someone had deleted them, but i think they are important, especially because of the box shape of the body fronts are hard to see and half of motorist don't pay attention in traffic, now i can drill new holes to be able to mount them. Did i mention they cost 3$ for both, some of the OEM parts are extremely cheap.


----------



## HarryJM

Estate sale stuff for $52.50.

25.5 pound made in Taiwan 4” drill press vise.

6 parallels.

13” spike.

hammer head.


----------



## mmcmdl

mksj said:


> Narex Vhu 1 3/8" (travel) boring and facing head with R-8 arbor.





jbobb1 said:


> I can't count the number of times I wish I had this tool!
> Very nice!



I sold a couple Enco B/F heads and all my regular boring heads over the years but kept the Narex and my smaller Wahlhopter head . I don't even own a mill but these 2 tools bring back many memories of past projects and are hard to part with . I did bring the small one into work and used it on a bearing repair job within the past year . They said it was the coolest tool they've ever seen .  ( I now work in a maintenance role now with mechanics )


----------



## GoceKU

Today i went and visit the local tool/ flea market, the first thing i bought was this diff flange and driveshaft joint, it has a new u joint in it just little dirty and rusty, for the Little Niva, when off roading is just the question of when i'm going to need them, and the only other thing i bought was this Bosch grinder at 14$ nearly new i thought is a great deal, not a bad trip.


----------



## Janderso

I couldn’t wait to borrow one.
I own it


----------



## GoceKU

Today after work i stopped by a parts store, and bought couple of new wheel oil seals, and 5 liters of gear oil, yes this little thing takes that much oil in its two diffs, transfer box and gearbox, unfortunately i can't, assemble them today because i have couple of other jobs in the works but i'll be back to work on it soon.


----------



## richl

I saw mention of something online metals has, it called a protobox they will fill a box with5, 10 or 20 lbs of either steel, aluminium or brass. I need some brass for knobs and such so I thought I'd give it a shot. Just arrived a few minutes ago.


It's kinda the luck of the draw, a few more pieces of solid round and a few less of tubing. But I'm happy, cheaper than mcmasters.


----------



## jbobb1

Replaced my old florescent shop lighting with LED's lights. What a difference!


----------



## hman

+1!!!  

My shop has/had a bunch of dual-tube 8 foot fluorescents on the ceiling.  Bought a case of LED replacements, and have been replacing the tubes as they burn out.  For an 8 foot fixture, you remove and wire around the ballast.  I also use a short length of #14 solid wire, run across the top of the housing and curled around the middle of the (somewhat flimsy) plastic and aluminum lamps to keep them from sagging.  LOVE the new lights ... and no more irritating buzz!


----------



## Cadillac

I Picked up a spare 6x12 magnetic chuck yesterday from a auction. It’s a madava made in Holland. I had never heard of them and googling looks like they’ve merge with a couple companies since this one was made. Their now called Bakker-madava and have the TTC logo on their nameplate. I like this configuration with the on/off lever at the end and chucked is drilled for fences on all four sides so it can b mounted left or right. She needs a little clean up but I liked it and for 22 bucks you can’t go wrong.


----------



## Janderso

BGHansen said:


> Few more items.  Picked up a couple of 3/8" M12 Milwaukee Fuel ratchets; one for the house, one for the shop.  They've got some weight to them, but are variable speed and put out 55 ft. lbs. of torque.  The Fuel style means a brushless motor.  Don't think I'd use them enough to wear out the brush style, but I figure what's mine is my wife's which will become our son's.
> 
> View attachment 291741
> 
> 
> View attachment 291742
> 
> 
> 
> Last of the "stuff" from the local shop that shut down.  They had a slug of DTI's, most were Federal Testmasters.  Don't know if that's good or not, but I've now got a lifetime supply.
> 
> View attachment 291743
> 
> View attachment 291744
> 
> 
> 
> Also grabbed a 5" x 2" sine bar/plate and an 10" x 6" sine plate.
> 
> View attachment 291745
> 
> 
> Bruce



Bruce,
You suck! "Don't know if test masters are any good" Doesn't matter, you'll find a good one in that batch.
The sine bar ain't shabby either. Those Milwaukee's are sweet.


----------



## jdedmon91

Janderso said:


> Bruce,
> You suck! "Don't know if test masters are any good" Doesn't matter, you'll find a good one in that batch.
> The sine bar ain't shabby either. Those Milwaukee's are sweet.



I got one for the shop. Use it to loosen my drawbar on my mill. I don’t have the ceiling space to build a power drawbar. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GoceKU

Today on my way from work i stopped by couple hardware stores, and picked up couple things, i'm missing couple of sizes on inverted torx sockets, so i bought a new set, also picked up a drill mounted wire brash, and a new charger for my bosch cordeless drill, my old one cought on fire.


----------



## BGHansen

Few more eBay pick ups.  I got the okay from my better half to look for a Tormach 1100 mill.  Picked up a few tooling items in prep of finding a mill.  First is another set of adjustable parallels.





Don't know why, but I prefer the tumbler style of digital micrometer over electronic.  Found this Chinese 0-3" set for $40 including shipping.  They seem to be smooth and checked the same as my Mitutoyo's on a few random gauge blocks, so very pleased.







Lastly, another M12 tool.  This one's a 1/4" ratchet.  I have a couple of the 3/8" Fuel ratchets, but snapped off a couple of 1/4" bolts, so went with the brush style instead of the brushless to drop the torque.





Bruce


----------



## Cooter Brown

I've never seen a set of adjustable parallels made by General before..


----------



## BFHammer

Although I regularly pick up odd items for projects and I’m a frequent offender with Macmaster-Carr I usually don’t splurge.  But this time I decided to buy something just because I wanted them.  I used my Zoro 25% off coupon and bought myself a set of Starrett tap wrenches.  The 91A, 91B and 91C (I’m still holding off on the 91D). Bright shiny and still made in the USA!


----------



## darkzero

BFHammer said:


> Although I regularly pick up odd items for projects and I’m a frequent offender with Macmaster-Carr I usually don’t splurge.  But this time I decided to buy something just because I wanted them.  I used my Zoro 25% off coupon and bought myself a set of Starrett tap wrenches.  The 91A, 91B and 91C (I’m still holding off on the 91D). Bright shiny and still made in the USA!
> 
> View attachment 293359



Nice! I did the same, have A, B, & C but still haven't bought the D yet. Mainly cause I doubt I would ever use the D but it's needed to complete the set. I think you need a #174 also. Doesn't have the v notch & is not spring loaded but it sure is cute! I love the spring loaded design of the Starrett 91s since the taps don't get loose while tapping!


----------



## stupoty

I got a new old stock drill chuck of the small verity, had to get a morse arbour for it, my drill press has a 5/8" chuck and doesn't hold drills below 2.5mm so now I can without adding a pin chuck or similar  yay, made in London uk.




Stu


----------



## pontiac428

I got a nice deal on an eBay lot. This stuff will be put to good use!


----------



## mickri

Sawing big chunks of steel with my trusty, rusty hacksaw has gotten old real fast.  Went to another farm auction today.  Anybody need fruit bins.  They were selling them in 100 bin lots.  No thanks. But you never know what treasure you might find covered in dust and rust in the back of a shed.  Put away decades ago and forgotten about.  Today's find was a craftsman 3x6 horizontal bandsaw.  Model 101.22922 on a metal stand.  $40 and it was mine.  Got it home and promptly took it apart.  Then I remembered I should have taken a before picture.  Oh well.  I'll post an after picture when I get it cleaned up.  Other than cleaning off years of dust and surface rust everything seems to be working.  The bearings are smooth.  The blade even looked ok. The only exception is the feed cylinder.  Probably needs new O rings.   Time will tell.


----------



## GreatOldOne

I hope it doesn’t squeak too much. Also, who knew rodents could be so accurate?


----------



## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

Having a great afternoon. Just bought this Mititoyo height gage on eBay. $30.00 plus $12.00 to ship.


----------



## C-Bag

Must be Mitutoyo acqusisiton day. Bought a Japanese made Mitutoyo caliper for $20 and National microscope for $40 local. Had a big lesson on what's going on with my tool grinding with the microscope, oh my. No more guessing if I got it right.


----------



## Cooter Brown

I just bought solar powered calipers from Mitutoyo they work just like a solar powered calculator they power on when they see light and go off in the dark.... I will "hopefully" never have to change the battery again, I have the regular style and I always forget to shut them off..... Come back 3 weeks later to find them still on.... lol 

They feel very nice and 0 every time..... There is no zero button or ON/OFF button....


I'll try to remember to post a review on here after a few months of use....












						Mitutoyo 500-474 Digital Calipers, Solar Powered, Inch/Metric, for Inside, Outside and Step Measurements, Stainless Steel, 0"/0mm-6"/150mm Range, +/-0.001"/0.01mm Accuracy, 0.0005"/0.01mm Resolution: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
					

Mitutoyo 500-474 Digital Calipers, Solar Powered, Inch/Metric, for Inside, Outside and Step Measurements, Stainless Steel, 0"/0mm-6"/150mm Range, +/-0.001"/0.01mm Accuracy, 0.0005"/0.01mm Resolution: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



					www.amazon.com


----------



## Buffalo21

3 of the 4-1/2” pneumatic angle grinders and a 3/8” pneumatic variable speed reversible drill, along with 300 foot of new air hose.


----------



## GreatOldOne

Radius gauges - made in Sheffield, England. Moore & Wright. Top pics of the fold out set show military broad arrow stamp & date. The ring sets are a full set of metric from .5 to 13mm radius, and a selection of imperial inch radius as well. They all need a bit of clean, but they’re all perfectly useable.


----------



## C-Bag

After looking for quite a while I bought a set of Starrett radius gages last year. Depending on what you do they have come in very handy. Mine were off eBay and were marked USAF and literally new with the plastic folding case.


----------



## francist

Boring head, 2". 




I don't desperately need one, but there it was on the shelf and I had an empty hand. Didn't get an an arbor with it but instead will try making an adapter from 1-1/2" - 18 to 1" - 10" to screw directly onto the spindle nose. We'll see how that goes...




-frank


----------



## wlburton

I had another great find at our local Habitat for Humanity "Restore" (their outlet for donated items) yesterday: a 3" jaw Wilton bullet vise in good shape (except for about 1/8th of an inch of paint slopped all over it and some surface rust) for $25.  The jaws look perfect and the handle is even straight!  I never know what I'm going to find when I walk in there.  I don't really need another vise but I couldn't pass it up and I'm sure I'll find a place for it.  Edit: I just noticed the date stamp on my wife's camera is off by almost three months.  I guess I need to fix that if I want to keep track of when I take photos!


----------



## Superburban

Enjoy the restore center while it is decent. When we lived in Pa, the one in the city where we lived started out great, then decided their stuff had hidden gold in it. we would stop at the restore center about 30 miles  away, when we were over there. Then ten years ago when we moved were to Co, the one here was good. But about 4 years ago, they did the same in raising.their prices. Have not stoped there in a good 2 years or so. But there is still a decent one near my sisters place, about 80  miles away.


----------



## Aukai

Filling in with better quality bits, Norseman, and the CL 61-80s are tiny little fellas.


----------



## jdedmon91

Picked up this wooden machinist box last night. It appears to be made by a woodworker or cabinet shop. Definitely not a Gertsner. It was a buy for $45
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## GoceKU

Friend of my called me, "i've heard you've bought a lada", i answered yes expecting a lada joke he said i'm in russia do you need any spares that can fit in a carry on bag, i told him exterior lighting, he is leaving in a day, so i told him what he can find in the first parts store from the list to buy it and bring it.


----------



## Cadillac

Visited the local flea market today was a beautiful day. Gotta love the 2 dollar table!!! Got a 1-2 and a 2-3 Mitutoyo tenths mics. Alittle dirty but cleaned up good, some staining on the shafts but run silky smooth after clean up and oil. Carbide faces and they look new not a scratch. Got the 1” standard for .50 cents. Gotta love when they don’t know what they have.


----------



## BGHansen

Picked up a few more things for the shop.  First was a Harbor Freight Fortress 4-gallon 200 psi air compressor.  I've heard good things about them being relatively quiet and move quite a bit of air.  It pumped up from 0 to 200 psi in about 65 seconds, albeit into a 4 gallon tank.  Supposed to put out 4.0 cfm at 90 psi.  It is quite a bit quieter than my other compressor, but there's still no doubt when it's running.  My main compressor is a 20-gallon tank Campbell Hausfield 4-HP that maintains a touch under 10 cfm at 90 psi, but I can hear it from our house (which is 50 yds. from the shop).  Plan for this one is to run the mist coolant on my CNC Bridgeport and a future CNC mill.

Other pick up was a pair of 6" electronic calipers from Clockwise Tools.  They advertise in Home Shop Machinist magazine; these are coolant proof and cost $21.50 delivered.  I like the large display for my old eyes.

Bruce


----------



## hman

Do your Clockwise calipers hold zero when turned off?


----------



## BGHansen

hman said:


> Do your Clockwise calipers hold zero when turned off?


Hi John,

They do not.  Closed the jaws, zero'd, shut them off.  Then moved the jaws and turned them back on and they read zero.

I mostly use regular dial calipers and never worry about the batteries going dead.  I had HF 4" and 6" digital calipers that ended up in the trash.  They'd skip 5.06 mm increments at random times when moving the jaws.  Always had to look at the vernier to double check measurements.  Figure the wheel inside has a circumference of 5.06 mm (that's really small).  

Hoping the Clockwise ones (they're made in China) prove to work a little better.  If not, I'll go the Mitutoyo Absolute route and stop fiddling with cheap tools.

Bruce


----------



## FOMOGO

Picked up this Llambrich Hexa chuck, after someone here (Cadillac maybe?) posted a great price on it on Amazon. Got it for $262.73. It's now listed for $485. Installed it on the Bridgeport and TIR is under .001. Mike


----------



## GoceKU

I just got all new lighting for the Little Niva fresh from Russia, the price difference is incredible, parts are about 5X more expensive here then in Russia, example, headlight is only 7$ in Russia with a philips 12342 light bulb the same light bulb is double that price in any parts store, incredible cheap.


----------



## BGHansen

GoceKU,

Based on all the body work you've done, sure hope the Russians used UV stable plastics  on their lamps.  On second hand, it'd be nice to see what you come up with to repair junkie Russian tail lights and head lights!  Enjoy seeing your restoration project, you have a lot more energy than me.  I'd have probably punched a 10 x 10 x 10 hole with our Case 580 backhoe and given the little Niva a decent burial.  I'm sure she'll be a beauty when it's all done.

Bruce


----------



## GoceKU

Bruce, i should have been more curious of previous repairs because they really caught me off guard on this project, never less i've finish even worse project in the past. The russians don't use plastic in there cars, mainly because there plastic products suck, the headlaps are steel and glass, and the rear light plastic covers are over 1/4 thick.


----------



## GreatOldOne

A nice (East?) German thread mic - looks like new old stock. Still has all the metric anvils, and seems to have the rust protection grease still on the spindle.


----------



## pontiac428

GreatOldOne said:


> A nice (East?) German thread mic - looks like new old stock. Still has all the metric anvils, and seems to have the rust protection grease still on the spindle.




Suhl is in Thuringia, in the heart of former West Germany.  I'd guess from the labels that it's about 30 years old, according to my calibrated eyes.


----------



## Buffalo21

A new Speedglas SL welding helmet, and a box of replacement lense covers.

The LWS had a inventory close out table, I bought a 14”, 120 carbide tooth, metal saw blade for my 14” Milwaukee dry cut saw, dropped off for resharpening and never picked up, I got it for resharpening fee and postage due on the blade

From the same table, I also bought a Florida Pneumatic needle scaler, a warranty repair, that was never picked up for $20.


----------



## GreatOldOne

pontiac428 said:


> Suhl is in Thuringia, in the heart of former West Germany.  I'd guess from the labels that it's about 30 years old, according to my calibrated eyes.



Oh. I only made the guess due to the company history page mentioning Soviet involvement... which is weird, if they’re located deep in the old Bundesrepublik. 




__





						History
					






					www.feinmess-suhl.com


----------



## GreatOldOne

Hi, I’m Jason, and I’m a Mitutoyo-holic... and I’ve fallen off the wagon again. But for £80, I reckon this was worth it.


----------



## hman

One micron ain't too shabby!  And a nice price.

Also interesting that it's from a Japanese company, produced in Mexico, now in the UK, posted here in the US!!!!


----------



## richl

I saw these on banggood a couple weeks back. I know glacern sells a bt30 quick change drill chuck I have one in an mt3 sleave for the lathe tailstock. Taking a chance I thought I'd go for it. The offer, 2 of these for 90 something dollars and free shipping. Glacern has them in the 130 price range for 1.

I need to modify them to work in my mill, first impression, very solidly built, as much heft as the mt3 unit from glacern. Jaws open from tight to .54 inches. Smooth operation of the jaws. If the runout is no worse than on my not so perfect Jacob's chuck


----------



## richl

I'm happy. I dont know about run out, I don't care hehehe. Drilled some holes in crs barstock and the holes look good, the drill bits went in straight. The drills loosen and tighten quickly and securely. Far easier to use than the keyed Jacob's chuck.
	

		
			
		

		
	



That is a picture of the jaws closed. Looks like that will take a very tiny drill bit if that is important for you.


----------



## Cadillac

Local swap meet again today. Nothing spectacular. I have something for files, have more than I could use in a life time. But for  a buck a pc. you can’t go wrong. 





Saw this tap and was more curious as to the style does anyone know what style this is called and the application? Then some slitting saw blades and a sharpening stone. All for a sawbuck not bad.


----------



## Firstram

I can't remember what those taps are called but they are amazing. 5 flutes with every other tooth removed on each flute will take a bigger bite per tooth with fewer teeth in the game. Over all they take less effort to use than a typical pipe tap, you scored big time!


----------



## DiscoDan

Had nothing to do today since my mom passed in February and I recently separated. So I went to an estate sale and bought a Starrett 0-1" mic. Then typed "antiques" into Google and found the closest antique stores. I found a metal machinists chest with wood drawers inside that was FULL of old machinist tools. I almost had a heart attack! It was a bit out of my price range today but I know me and I will lose sleep over it and go back and make an alternative offer in the next few weeks if it is still there.


----------



## hman

Best wishes - hope they accept your offer!


----------



## eugene13

stopped by a garage sale today, I plan on making a shelf out of the running board, I'll add the stillotsn wrenches to my collection, as well as the blow torch, and who can pass up a mic. for two dollars.  Can anyone shed some light on the purpose on the wrench on the right, it's made by Bemis & Cole.


----------



## francist

-frank


----------



## GoceKU

Today i went to exchange my CO2 tank, it is a bit of a drive so on my way back i stop by a tool/flea market, There wasn't too many precision machinist tools but i did managed to found couple small tings, a peice of solid brass, steel fuel can neck, 450mm calipers, in good usable shape, an 80mm morze 6 drill, an 85mm morze 5 drill bit, and an rusty 3 jaw chuck, it seams to be in good shape but very rusty, all in about 35$ which seams to be a great deal, the calipers is worth that.


----------



## Buffalo21

A Harbor Freight #62323, gas powered chipper/shredder


----------



## Janderso

Estate sale.
I bought a 24” X 36” brass sheet 1/8” thick and a 3/8 drive torque wrench and some stuff.


----------



## mmcmdl

Firstram said:


> I can't remember what those taps are called but they are amazing. 5 flutes with every other tooth removed on each flute will take a bigger bite per tooth with fewer teeth in the game. Over all they take less effort to use than a typical pipe tap, you scored big time!



It's called an interrupted thread pipe tap and takes half ( well , a lot less ) the torque of a regular tap . Mostly used on cnc machines with the bigger threads .


----------



## Janderso

Brass Sheet 24" X 36" X 1/8".
I paid $30.
Online metals wants $501 plus shipping.
I like that!
I asked the guy, how much for the brass sheet? He said, $30. I said, OK, he then says, ****, I knew I should have asked $40.


----------



## MrWhoopee

After having twice ground a damaged tap to use for a small internal threading tool, I finally ordered a set of small inserted bars.



https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New...22.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.6897689cZVE9IM 

Smokin' deal, even if I have to pay 25% tariff!


----------



## mmcmdl

Didn't buy it today , but got it into the garage today ! ( along with 4 four wheelers , 2 zero turns , the Kubota , the Vidmars , + all the other junk . Not quite sure where the lathe and mill are going to fit if I get them .


----------



## vocatexas

Nice! It looks to me like there's plenty of room for a mill and lathe. All you have to do is get rid of the four wheelers, zero turns, and Kubota.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Naaggghhhh; *never* throw anything away. Even a soda can pull tab is useful, for something. Just add on to the front, metal carports are cheap. Or move to a larger shop. But *never* throw anything away.


----------



## mmcmdl

Bi11Hudson said:


> Naaggghhhh; *never* throw anything away. Even a soda can pull tab is useful, for something. Just add on to the front, metal carports are cheap. Or move to a larger shop. But *never* throw anything away.



That's my trouble , and it got me to where I am today ! A hoarder !  Honestly , I don't think machinists ever throw anything away , because we can always fix anything . I always seem to spend hours and $$$$$$ on stuff worth minutes and $ , but hey , it's fun .


----------



## Cooter Brown

I just bought a V-block grinding fixture for $90.....


----------



## GreatOldOne

Is there a micrometers anonymous? If there is, I think I need to start attending. 
	

		
			
		

		
	






Moore & Wright 0-25 & 25-50mm Direct Read micrometers. Love the thimble mounted displays. 




Mint, boxed Tesa disk mic.


----------



## wlburton

Bi11Hudson said:


> Naaggghhhh; *never* throw anything away. Even a soda can pull tab is useful, for something. Just add on to the front, metal carports are cheap. Or move to a larger shop. But *never* throw anything away.


Better yet--build a metal carport out of soda can pull tabs (once you save up enough).


----------



## Bi11Hudson

That wouldn't be waterproof, better to go with sheet roofing and keep the pull tabs as fish hooks. 

I bought the house next door to use for storage. Then started using it for a workshop so built a good size barn out back to store stuff. Now they *both* have *barely* enough room to walk around in. And the big house is still full of stuff. I sold off the tractor, and implements, a few years ago when times got tight. But eventually replaced it when I needed one bad enough,

The only stuff I willingly let go of was the motorcycle and parts. Which I gave away. I cannot ride any more for physical reasons. The electrical, electronics, model trains, wood working, and metal working machines I look at carefully on a regular basis and don't see how I could let go of even one piece. It *all* would be useful for something. And still keep a sharp eye out for that something I still can use when it's at a price I'm willing to pay.

Am I a hoarder? If that is how it is defined, then yes, I am one. My father was a grown man in the depression of the 30's. He instilled the "hoarder" mindset in me before I ever started school. Which I didn't get very far, by the way. When he needed some esoteric something for what he was working on, he would go to the "stash" and dig around a little. And there it was! 

I don't keep old news papers or cardboard boxes. Although I would if I did much painting. But I don't, except for the models. Everything I have stashed is metal, even to the copper buss bars and copper pipe. Never know when they will come in handy for whatever. 

Although most of the electrical systems I learned how to work on are obsolete now. Even on ships and industrial cranes(bridge cranes) EC&M is out of business, has been for years. And the switch gear I know is no longer in use. Replaced with something safety rated... ... I'm glad I'm retired now, there's nothing left to work on.

A response that turned into a rant. Sorry for the time, guys. Have a good one.

Bill Hudson​


----------



## jbobb1

Ordered a new Hitachi WJ200-022F VFD for my lathe. I believe the forward contactor is about ready to crap out on me!


----------



## Splat

Bought 0-1"/25mm thread mic from Shars after reading Mikey mention it a couple of times. I'm sick of using 3-wires.  Also bought a Mitutoyo 0-1" mic with ratchet thimble, 103-260. My Mit I've been using I bought used long time ago has been slipping. All should be here by Wednesday. Can't wait to try out the thread mic.


----------



## grotto

Bought a few hundred kilos of stuff from a foundry that is closing down. Most stuff had gone but the demo guys are selling whats left. Got a load of big drill bits (1”+), a heap of taps, a few dozen boxes of screws, a few hundred kilos of alloy and steel, coolant pump, etc. A lot of the tooling I didn’t really want but couldn’t let it go in the scrap bin. Ended up grabbing 3 huge Iscar face mills (new in box) out of the skip. Will go back tomorrow with a torch and poke around the darker areas


----------



## Ulma Doctor

got a (mint) Mahr  .0001" Dial Test Indicator


----------



## mmcmdl

Picking up a Bridgeport , a 12" by 4 ft Clausing lathe and an Atlas 12" x 4ft lathe this Saturday + whatever else I want . The machines are fully tooled .


----------



## vocatexas

I went to a machine shop auction Saturday. The shop had closed at least fifteen years ago and sat unused since. Apparently the auction service didn't do a very good job of advertising; I found out about the auction two hours before it started. Luckily for me, it was only about 30 miles away.

I got a box with several hundred loose carbide inserts for $2. A used but very nice Criterion 3 inch boring head with a boring bar attached for $45. What looks to be a complete Dumont broaching set in a wooden case for $40. 64 5C collets with a rack for $25. I haven't done a complete inventory on the collets, but I know there are a couple of duplicates a a couple missing, but I think I got a good deal regardless. 

There were two shelf units of tooling that nobody bid on. After they passed over them I talked to one of the people from the auction service and ended up buying both racks for $100 apiece. One rack was full of boring bars from about 1/4 x4 up to one that's about 1 3/4x18 or so. 50 boring bars in all. The other rack was drill bits on Morse tapers from 3/4 to over 2 inches, along with about 50 insert tool-holders, a pile of brazed carbide turning tools up to about 3/4x3/4, and another pile of used HSS turning tools.

I wish I'd had more money to spend. There were 4 large Polish-made lathes that didn't even get a $500 opening bid, a huge Polish horizontal/vertical mill, Brown and Sharpe vertical shaper, a shaft grinder and a surface grinder that didn't sell. A decent Bridgeport sold for $1300. Not a bad day.


----------



## ttabbal

mmcmdl said:


> Picking up a Bridgeport , a 12" by 4 ft Clausing lathe and an Atlas 12" x 4ft lathe this Saturday + whatever else I want . The machines are fully tooled .



Bring the Clausing to my garage please.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

There's this cute little gizmo for a drill motor that's an inverted countersink tool. Bought one for my brother and one for me. From China, rare but it does happen. Supposed to debur the end of a stud or bolt. Did a nice job in the adverts. We'll see when it gets here. I don't have a photo, will take one when I have it in hand.


----------



## mmcmdl

ttabbal said:


> Bring the Clausing to my garage please.



One of the lathes will be going to someone else's garage .  Not sure which one yet .


----------



## hman

Bi11Hudson said:


> There's this cute little gizmo for a drill motor that's an inverted countersink tool. Bought one for my brother and one for me. From China, rare but it does happen. Supposed to debur the end of a stud or bolt. Did a nice job in the adverts. We'll see when it gets here. I don't have a photo, will take one when I have it in hand.


I've seen them various places on the web.  But as far as I could tell, they all said they were stainless steel - not the best material for holding an edge, so I've been hesitant. Let us know how yours turn out.  And if they're good, please include a link!


----------



## mmcmdl

Looks like the Clausing is a 5913 or 5914 variable speed . Good and bad . The Atlas may be a 3996 from what I can tell . The BP is a series 1 with DROs , power feed in x with a Kurt vise and lots of tooling . They have not been used extensively because we have no machinist in the other plant . No visable wear on either lathes and they have all the goodies too .


----------



## Janderso

Pics please


----------



## Logan 400

I'm in the long tedious  process of reorganizing my shop. I'm also closing in a 12 x 14 slab on the back. I have been looking for cabinets for tools and other things and ran across an old napa cabinet that works well for paint supplies. Also found a 2 drawer 36 x 18 cabinet that will hold my routers and buffers.


----------



## BenW

Found this at a flea market today. It's what I assume is some sort of demo-tool, made from clear plastic. Cool curiosity, and more or less free so I couldn't pass it up.







Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk


----------



## FOMOGO

Bought this Triumph 4 post lift ( https://liftswholesale.com/4-post/triumph-nss-8xlt-8000-lb-4-post-lift/ ) to augment my two post. My new helper "Jen" and I assembled it in about 4hrs less time spent changing out a few cheesy pieces of hardware. Really liking the fact that it is totally mobile, and that I can work on vehicles with the suspension setting at normal ride height for fabricating exhaust systems, and suspension components. Easily accommodates my extra cab F-250, and comes with a sliding jack tray for lifting wheels clear of ramps. Will be making a second jack tray so I can lift front and rear simultaneously. After pricing there optional air/hyd scissor 
jacks, I will be making two of my own for about 1/4 the cost. Over all, real happy with the quality, and function. Mike


----------



## Scra99tch

Parents sent me a picture of a boring bar on Saturday saying there was a make an offer sign on it.  I took a look and could barely make out the manufacturer.  Told my parents to go back and make an offer for me, sight unseen.  Dad says nah, "offer them such and such$".  Well I could not make it over there so I sent him over.  Low and behold the lady accepted.  I felt a little bad having figured out the manufacturer and the accessories that came with it make these pretty valuable (maybe a bit over prices IMHO).  

So I go and pick it up on Sunday and the ladies husband won't come out to help because she accepted my dads offer (which was strange because he was standing behind her at the time).  Anyways I pull into my pocket and cough up more $ for her feeling guilty that I said I would probably end up using it.

So what the heck will I use it for, no clue but its cool.  And yeah I will probably sell.  I'll try to bore out some old Guzzi cylinders I have lying around but thats about it.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Now all I need is a decent shop to spread out in. Climbing over one piece of equipment to use another is getting (gotten) old. The intent here is the "gizmo" I mentioned a couple of days ago. The one for deburring a fastener. Or sharpening a pencil, if that's your bent. Or, in woodworking, tapering the end of dowel rods.

I thought it was shipped from China, but is here already. I'm impressed there. The tool is (probably) stainless, not HSS. So, it will work the first few times I use it. But looks to be resharpenable, so a plus there if it really is. It was cheap enough that I won't be out anything if it doesn't live up to the adverts. Oh, and it works in both directions, in case you're cleaning up a left hand fastener with a left hand drill motor.

There are several, probably different manufacturers. Some are "TiN", titanium Nitride, coated. I'm not real impressed with TiN for cutting tools. Especially metal cutting tools. Seems the first time they  are sharpened, the coating goes away where it's needed. So, I won't pay more to get a marketing gimmick. 

A photo and link is below, as requested:




__





						external deburring chamfer tool - Buy external deburring chamfer tool with free shipping | Banggood Shopping
					

Buy the best and latest external deburring chamfer tool on banggood.com offer the quality external deburring chamfer tool on sale with worldwide free shipping. | Shopping




					www.banggood.com
				




Bill Hudson​


----------



## GreatOldOne

Due to my advancing decrepitude, I find soldering (especially SMD stuff) a pain in the butt. So when I saw this on eBay for buttons, I thought hmmmm. Wonder if that would help. Guess we’ll see.  

It’s a PZO MST-130 stereo microscope, with 6.3x objectives. Hopefully it’s optics are ok.


----------



## richl

Spent the last 5 weeks working at an all purpose shop, both wood and metal. Shop manager would come in every morning, scribbled some bird scratch, stick figures with crude approximate numbers on wood, paper, plastic, metal, old lunch wrappers... than it was my job to make up this mad scientist idea and turn it into something... actually was kinda a fun job lol
Shop manager had a crude deburring tool, loved to use it on everything. I got in the habit of using it also.

So I went on amazon and purchased a set of nova deburring tools, 1 for sheetmetal, 1 for holes and 1 for standard deburring


----------



## FOMOGO

GreatOldOne said:


> Due to my advancing decrepitude, I find soldering (especially SMD stuff) a pain in the butt. So when I saw this on eBay for buttons, I thought hmmmm. Wonder if that would help. Guess we’ll see.
> 
> It’s a PZO MST-130 stereo microscope, with 6.3x objectives. Hopefully it’s optics are ok.



 I've been fairly impressed with everything I've gotten from Poland. Especially those wonderful Pierogi's. Please let us know what you think of it. Cheers, Mike


----------



## BGHansen

Few more recent pick ups.  Bought an iGaging 4" digital calipers off eBay for around $20.  This one remembers where it's at if you slide the jaws while the display is turned off.





Also picked up some heel clamps for the mill.  Recall paying about $30 for these.





Picked up a Thermolyne model FA1730 heat treat furnace yesterday.  Happened to hit Craig's List with a search for "heat treat oven" and this one for $300 showed up about 100 miles away.  I have a Thermolyne model 2000 which is a 110V unit with a max temp of around 2000 F and a 8" x 4" x 4" chamber.  This one is 220V with a 15" x 9" x 9" chamber.  I fired it up but didn't wait for it to get to any significant temperature.  The smaller one takes about 30 minutes to get to 1575 F or the hardening point for steel.  I used to harden punches and dies with an oxyacetylene torch; last time I hardened 2 punches 3" x 1/2" diameter and 2 dies 1 1/4" diameter x 5/8" thick.  They used about 25 psi out of my acetylene tank which I recall costing about $100 to fill to 300 psi, so about $8.30 to harden those punches/dies.  Our electric rate is around $0.10 per kilowatt hour, the small furnace costs about $0.20 per hour to run.  The bigger one draws 24 A at 220 V or 5.3 KwH or $0.53 per hour to run.  The torch goes a lot quicker, but is significantly (factor of 70 for the 2 punches and dies) more expensive.

Below are photos of my rigging (not my day job).  I made up a base out of 2 x 6's and slid it under the furnace while still in our Traverse.  Shot 5/16" lags at the corners to keep it from sliding on the base.  Then made a plank out of a couple of 2x10's for sliding the furnace onto a 16" x 30" cart for its temporary home.  Lagged some ratchet straps to the plank and the base and inched it out of the Traverse onto the 16" x 30" cart.  Lifted it with a couple of straps and an engine hoist to slip the plank out from underneath, then set it down on the 16" x 30" cart.  I think Mike Rowe said it on the old show "Dirty Jobs", "safety may not be our top priority, but it's in the top 50" . . .   The furnace weighs close to 300 lbs. and was really tipsy on the 16" x 30" cart.  So plan B was to clear some space off a 24" x 36" cart and drop the furnace on it.  Much more stable, I'll end up making a specific stand for it, or easier yet buy a 24" x 36" cart like it ended up on for the time being and put both heat treat furnaces on it.

Thanks for looking.

Bruce


Slid a 2x6 base under the furnace while still in the car



Used a couple of ratchet straps lagged to the 2x6 base and a plank to slide the furnace out of the car onto a cart.




The ratchet straps worked really well for inching the furnace onto a 16" x 30" cart.




Nope, no fire in the shop.  They say "May is Morel (mushroom) month in Michigan".  I think it's really "May is Mosquito month in Michigan)".  Man, they loved me opening the 16' slider shop door.  I keep a fogger in the shop just for these occasions . . .    Used an engine hoist to lift the furnace enough to slip the plank out from under it.  Holy cow, was it really tipsy on that 16" x 30" cart!  So on to plan B . . .



Cleared some space off a reinforced 24" x 36" cart and lifted it in place.






I'll still primarily use my smaller Thermolyne 2000 furnace with a small 8" x 4" x 4" chamber, but nice to have a 15" x 9" x 9" option.







The controls are pretty simple:  Two breakers control the power, one for the electronic control, the other for furnace power.  The temp control is set by pressing SET, then work up/down to the desired temp for each digit of the target temp.


----------



## hman

Very nice haul!

Off topic alert:


BGHansen said:


> They say "May is Morel (mushroom) month in Michigan".  I think it's really "May is Mosquito month in Michigan)".


I seriously envy you your location (at least in the month of May).  LOVE morels, and I'd gladly brave the 'skeeters for a good haul.  Pictures below are a whole day's pickin's from the woods in Oregon's Cascade mountains.


----------



## Superburban

Received a rugged Military multi meter to replace the Simpson 260 I dropped a few weeks ago. I did manage to pickup a new back for the Simpson, but just not wanting to carry it around in my truck anymore.


----------



## BGHansen

hman said:


> Very nice haul!
> 
> Off topic alert:
> 
> I seriously envy you your location (at least in the month of May).  LOVE morels, and I'd gladly brave the 'skeeters for a good haul.  Pictures below are a whole day's pickin's from the woods in Oregon's Cascade mountains.
> 
> View attachment 295712
> View attachment 295713


Hi John,

Nice haul! We usually get around 40-50 from our property. Look by dead elms with bark peeling off for some reason.

Bruce


----------



## Janderso

Took a while but I found it.
A radius gage set from Starrett. Via EBay 
Check it out.


----------



## mmcmdl

I'm still waiting for a time slot on the 2 lathes and Bridgeport , but I will be having lots of grinding wheels delivered to the garage tomorrow Jeff . They go with the Micromasters . Depending on how many my buddy has , I'll keep you in mind . At this point I'm still not positive on whether the SG will stay with me .  My plan is still to downsize .


----------



## Superburban

I thought I did good at a yard sale, where I picked up 3 cans of R12 (one tapped, but appears to be full), a can of stop leak, and a set of AC gauges for $10. But at one of the last one we hit today, I picked up a 10 LB can of R22 (yes it is full), for a whopping $2.  I have enough R12 now to get the AC in my 78 Ramcharger working,  So I guess new hoses, seals, compressor, and a receiver/dryer is on my next shopping list.


----------



## ch2co

GreatOldOne said:


> Due to my advancing decrepitude, I find soldering (especially SMD stuff) a pain in the butt. So when I saw this on eBay for buttons, I thought hmmmm. Wonder if that would help. Guess we’ll see.
> 
> It’s a PZO MST-130 stereo microscope, with 6.3x objectives. Hopefully it’s optics are ok.
> 
> 
> 
> I used to use one of those very microscopes at work. Very good optics. Enjoy.
> I now have a zoom AO scope that I use a lot for soldering electronics. I also have a mount that allows me to use it on my little mill. They are a necessity for old tired eyes when the reading spectacles just can’t quite cut it.
> 
> The grumpy old coot


----------



## Logan 400

I have been looking for some large file cabinets for a while now. I finally found some that suited my needs. 18" wide and 28" deep with heavy duty roller bearing slides. I think I got a bargain at $20.00 each.


----------



## Superburban

You do not see the legal ones much, and a matched set to boost..


----------



## darkzero

Got me a full set of counterbores w/ interchangeable pilots before them stupid tarrifs fully kick in.  




Some stainless steel wire brushes. Couldn't pass them up at 5 cents ea! I tried to buy a boat load of them but that's all they had left.




5 pack of pairs of 1-2-3 blocks from All Industrial. $35 + shipping. Shipping was $15 for me but still a great price!




Wanted some bigger slitting saws than what I had. Listing listed the sizes but I didn't really think about it. Holy crap they are huge! The 6" ones I may use but the 8" ones I don't know, just scary thinking about it! Not bad for $25 + shipping. Used but still sharp (one is resharpened I assume) & all made in the USA.




To give you an idea of the size. 1" bores, my vise is a 5". 8" saw mounted, 6"ers & another 8" in the background. They still look much smaller in the pic than in real life!


----------



## hman

I can just imagine an 8" Skilsaw blade mounted to my mill spindle ... definitely something to be VERY cautious about!


----------



## Brento

Im unfortunately in the looks soon for a saw blade thats prob about 4" to 5" with a .06 thickness. Sorta scary lol.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Went prowling on eBay the other day, a regular occurance, looking for small stuff like I use. The buy is several days old, showed up Sat PM.

I found a sale of small taps, what looked like the size 2 or 3 and down. Turns out they were all the same size, an archaic size at that. I have a number of machine screw sizes around 0-80, 0.060 at 80 TPI. These turned out to be 1/16"-84, at 0.0625". I can't immediately use that size, but intend to do a little research on the screw size and find out when it was superceeded. I haven't seen fractional sizes since I was very young. There have been times I used an 0-80 screw and it felt sloppy. Maybe... ??? A little smaller than 2 MM and larger than 1.5 MM.

The other, from the same seller, was a handful of double ended milling cutters. There were a couple of dark colour and non-magnetic. I figure carbide... ??? Size a fuzz under 1 MM, I figure 0.035" or so. The largest one was 0.140". All with 0.1875 shanks, 3/16".  I already  have adapters in MT-2 and R-8 for both mills, the Chinese one and the Atlas.

I bought them essentially blind, the photo showed them but nothing to reference size to. Both the mills and the taps...

Thanks for listening, Bill Hudson


----------



## Janderso

mmcmdl said:


> I'm still waiting for a time slot on the 2 lathes and Bridgeport , but I will be having lots of grinding wheels delivered to the garage tomorrow Jeff . They go with the Micromasters . Depending on how many my buddy has , I'll keep you in mind . At this point I'm still not positive on whether the SG will stay with me .  My plan is still to downsize .



I measured the space between my shop door and my lathe, it’s 59”.
I may need to move the lathe to get the Micromaster in.


----------



## mmcmdl

Janderso said:


> I measured the space between my shop door and my lathe, it’s 59”.
> I may need to move the lathe to get the Micromaster in.



Jeff , the Micromaster will slide right thru that 59" . The measurement I gave you included the full table stroke .  Like I said , it's a heavy machine , plan on it .


----------



## mmcmdl

Brento said:


> Im unfortunately in the looks soon for a saw blade thats prob about 4" to 5" with a .06 thickness. Sorta scary lol.



Whatya need Brent ?  I'll meet you up in Oneonta .


----------



## mmcmdl

Got the equipment home with no moving issues . Bridgeport Series 1 2 hp . The Clausing 5917 and the Atlas 3996 . ( along with boxes and boxes of tooling ) 

I have to knock the dust off of these as they have gone un-used in our other plant for years .


----------



## Janderso

Dang, you have got a nice haul there.
Let us know the condition on those beauties.


----------



## pontiac428

Heck yeah that's a nice haul!  Look at all those accessories and parts still present.  I thought it was forbidden to sell a used machine without taking the valuable stuff off first.  They even let you keep all the knobs!


----------



## savarin

Can you feel the envy emanating from my direction


----------



## Janderso

Yeah, but it’s subtle.


----------



## hman

Remember, fellas ... Savarin is down under.  So a frowning mouth turned upside down becomes a smile


----------



## mmcmdl

Someone on this site will end up with a beautiful Atlas lathe ! I'm going to put my efforts into the Clausing , the BP and the SG . Being I will now be in my garage which is not climate controlled , a lot of my precision stuff will be finding a new home . I'm not in the need to make parts other to keep the tractor herd moving . Last time I had the Lagun FTV-2 in the garage I lost it , lol , not really , but it got buried with all the other stuff . I am planning on not letting this happen again . We'll see how it goes . And , if anyone would just happen to need a 22 ton jack , come see me ………………..really , 22 tons . Gotta wonder what the heck they were jacking .


----------



## BGHansen

mmcmdl said:


> Someone on this site will end up with a beautiful Atlas lathe ! I'm going to put my efforts into the Clausing , the BP and the SG . Being I will now be in my garage which is not climate controlled , a lot of my precision stuff will be finding a new home . I'm not in the need to make parts other to keep the tractor herd moving . Last time I had the Lagun FTV-2 in the garage I lost it , lol , not really , but it got buried with all the other stuff . I am planning on not letting this happen again . We'll see how it goes . And , if anyone would just happen to need a 22 ton jack , come see me ………………..really , 22 tons . Gotta wonder what the heck they were jacking .


My in-laws used to own a Prevost motor coach; 45 ft. long rock star tour bus.  It weighed about 50,000 lbs. and had at least 12 lugs on each wheel torqued to 600 ft. lbs.  I recall him having a 20-ton floor jack that weighed about 350 lbs.

Bruce


----------



## bakrch

Grabbed a new Dorian BXA QCTP for $375 new (using Zoro's current 20% off promo code). Pretty happy with that.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Well, it isn't a metal working tool, but I just gotta crow. I had delivered today a Foley Belsaw, model 910 with several extra knives. Much more stable than the current crop made out of plastic and chinesium. And a little bigger, too. Takes a 20A240V circuit to run it. I have lusted after one of these since at least 1974. And with the manufacturer not listed any more, had just about given up on the idea. But, I got one now. I know I need to be crowing on a wood working site, but I come here most times instead. 

I do thank y'all for listening; and tolerating me.

Bill Hudson​


----------



## f350ca

No pictures, it never happened Bill. It may want fed wood instead of metal but its definitely a machine.

Greg


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Yeah, well, I figured since it was a woodworking machine, nobody would be that interested. I do have a couple of pics from the CL adverts; included below. If woodworking machinery were to be included in my holdings, I could chew up at  least as many  pages as I would for metal working machines. About the only thing lacking is a decent size shop, it's kinda crowded here. The big deal to me is that there's no plastic, except rollers & the like. Good ole USA steel.


----------



## jbobb1

Got a nice 6" Mit height gage. Probably paid a little too much, but I just couldn't pass it up.

Oh, we also made the last mortgage payment on our house!


----------



## BGHansen

jbobb1 said:


> Got a nice 6" Mit height gage. Probably paid a little too much, but I just couldn't pass it up.
> 
> Oh, we also made the last mortgage payment on our house!


Congrats on paying off your house!  It does wonders for your shop budget!

Bruce


----------



## BGHansen

Couple of recent pick ups.  Bought some 6-32 spiral flute taps and a 29 pc. set (1/16" - 1/2") of Norseman screw machine length drill bits.  I have an import set of stubby drills at my mills, but am looking at buying a 4th mill and wanted a set of good drill bits for the new machine.

Bruce


6-32 spiral flute taps




Norseman stubby drill bits for a new (used) mill coming to my shop


----------



## Jim Dobson

Set of carbide drill bits.


----------



## mmcmdl

3 sets of brakes and rotors for the Hondas  Another busy day coming up , but maybe , just maybe , I'll get to wipe down the lathe and mill for their initial clean-up .


----------



## Cadillac

Needed a 3-4 mic. Found a nsk tenths one on eBay just missing the standard. Carbide faces look good cleaned up nicely. Happy no initials to look at.


----------



## GreatOldOne

FOMOGO said:


> I've been fairly impressed with everything I've gotten from Poland. Especially those wonderful Pierogi's. Please let us know what you think of it. Cheers, Mike



So far so good. It’s a good, sturdy bit of kit. The in built lamp is blown, and it didn’t come with the power supply for it - but that’s no big deal as I’m converting it from the incandescent bulb it had to an LED.

I also got from a separate auction some x25 objectives. I dunno how useful they will be for its intended purpose (soldering etc) as its probably a bit too strong a magnification, and the light requirement goes up... but it’s fun inspecting stuff and seeing the craters in that perfectly finished part you just milled.


----------



## GreatOldOne

25-50 inside digital mic from my favourite manufacturer. 




No, honest dear... it just followed me home.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

I've been after a good depth gauge for a long long time and have been making do with an adapter I made for my digital caliper. Saw this on eBay and got it for $66, it's a Starrett 445M 













also after a tip from Mikey (thanks Mikey!) I got a sent of what look like brand new Yuasa telescoping bore gauges, by all accounts the same as Mitutoyo bore guages. The feel very smooth and lock up easily, much better than the cheap HF ones and the old Starrett 579s I have (which will now go on CL). Got them for $37.












they honestly don't look used at all.

These were my present to myself for teaching this summer and I'm really pumped with them!


----------



## GreatOldOne

A metric Starrett? Isn't that god damn un-american, and probably treasonous?


----------



## mattthemuppet2

I'm an expat Brit that grew up in the UK during the imperial/metric transition, lived in Australia/ NZ for a number of years (full metric) and now live in the US (mostly imperial). I'm very confused


----------



## GreatOldOne

I bet that if you don’t mind working in metric, second hand metric tooling is going to be cheap - as hardly anyone over there will want it. I know I’ve had some great bargains on metric mics (even with international shipping) purchased from eBay US.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

very true, I've picked up some real metric bargains that's for sure


----------



## WCraig

GreatOldOne said:


> A metric Starrett? Isn't that god damn un-american, and probably treasonous?


You do know your own armed forces use metric, right?  

Actually, I'm not sure how pervasive metric is in the US military.  I do know that all mapping and artillery/bombardment use meters and kilometres.  Same for the navy, right?  

How far does metric use go?  Kilograms of potatoes for the mess hall?  

Are veterans going to be the ones who finally get the USA to give up on archaic measures?

Craig


----------



## pontiac428

At least in the Army, anything involving projectiles is done in metric (except MOA, mills, and miliradians- that's all over the map).  Troop movement and land navigation are done in kilometers and meters.  Vehicles are mostly in inch measurements.  Height, weight, and physical fitness distances are all imperial.  Water consumption is in liters.  Heat indices are in Fahrenheit.  Fuel dispensing is in gallons.  Time is in metric (24-hour clock).  Bullsheet is measured in metric butt-tons.

I dunno.  I lived in Europe for 10 years, I'm completely sold on metric.  It doesn't take much adjustment and the math is easier.  And bragging about what you're packing sounds so much cooler in millimeters.


----------



## GreatOldOne

WCraig said:


> You do know your own armed forces use metric, right?



Yup. Her Majesty’s Royal Navy, Airforce & Army are well versed in metric. (I’m not American, hence the sarcastic / leg pull comment. )


----------



## savarin

Considering how long ago the US started using decimal currency its surprising they havnt fully changed over by now.
Mind you the UK still uses miles per gallon.
We came to AUS in 84 and I went fully metric very easily I still cant get to grips with litres per 100 Klms, mpg means more to me. My wife still cant come to grips with meters or kilos though.
A couple of very interesting reads








						Metrication in the United Kingdom - Wikipedia
					






					en.wikipedia.org
				











						Map of countries officially not using the metric system
					

Prepare to be amazed: That's right -- the three countries which are not using the metric system are Liberia, Myanmar and of course... the United States of




					www.zmescience.com


----------



## Jim Dobson

Two 19watt Philips LED bulbs that go in lights over my lathe....wow are they nice and bright!

Cool running and each one is rated at around 130watt output.


----------



## HarryJM

Bi11Hudson said:


> Yeah, well, I figured since it was a woodworking machine, nobody would be that interested. I do have a couple of pics from the CL adverts; included below. If woodworking machinery were to be included in my holdings, I could chew up at  least as many  pages as I would for metal working machines. About the only thing lacking is a decent size shop, it's kinda crowded here. The big deal to me is that there's no plastic, except rollers & the like. Good ole USA steel.
> 
> View attachment 296045
> View attachment 296046
> View attachment 296047


Hard to pass on old American arn machinery.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

*A RANT*; To rage, or not to rage, that is the question... Otherwise, off topic....

So, I got in today a "8 1/2'' WHATUMACALLIT CRAFTSMAN SCREW TYPE MEASURING BIT ". Cost more for shipping than the device. If you will look at the photo, it's obvious what it is. I already have 3 or 4, but for $2.25, how can I pass up a USA made tool. What bothers me the most, I think, is that when a fellow saw it, he suggested possibly a _can opener_. Is the entire country going stupid? A *measuring tool*? What is the country coming to? From the "metal working tools" portion of eBay. I have been raging all day, and locals lack of knowledge just add to that rage. I've known what this thing was since I was a child. And I'm not *that* old, not yet anyway. But if people keep pulling my blood pressure up, I may be. I have a generaly low opinion of eBay sellers, but "the man on the street" too. If I wasn't so opposed to it, I would just go out in the back yard, dig a hole, and lie down in it. Glad I don't have any kids.

Sorry to bother y'all, I'm just angry as hell.

Bill Hudson​


----------



## hman

Bill -
Couldn't find a "like" icon that simply says "right on," or you'd have gotten one from me.  
Simple ignorance is one thing.  Not everybody is "handy with tools," and not everybody who is has been exposed to older stuff like brace bits.  But to puke out a random guess, with no basis for the opinion, is indeed rank stupidity.  I've run into it too many times to even try to keep track of.  Luckily, it seldom affects me directly.  And in my doddering years, I've just decided it (usually) isn't worth my time or blood pressure to get enraged.


----------



## lordbeezer

Picked up a 9" south bend model c in good shape yesterday off cl.factory green and yellow.guys grandfather bought it during ww2.passed down from son to grandson (74)..no damaged gears.thats a first for me.came with several reamers.


----------



## GoceKU

I've been working on this deal couple of days and finally agreed on a price and bought three automatic power tapping heads. They are very used but still operate like new, auto stop and auto reverse with them is easier than drilling a hole to put thread in it, good old german engineering, i did pay a lot for them, close to 200$ but if they save me time and tooling they will pay for them self.


----------



## GreatOldOne

I availed myself of the 10% off eBay promo that's running in the UK til midnight tonight, and bagged myself:

5C Collet Chuck



1" of this cast iron round stock for a back plate



And a 1-30mm 5C collet set, in .5mm increments



Yes, I already have an ER32 Collet chuck, so it isn't really necessary, but when has that ever been an issue with this hobby? Shiny Shiny Shiny! (accept for the iron. That's a bit dull)


----------



## Brento

Was a moving sale by me and the owner use to work for Striker and had CNC’s and manual machines. Unfortunately i didn't hear about it until late night. So i went first thing this morning and it was all picked over. Fortunately for me i was able to get a little metal tin for off HSSC blanks 3/16" and a bunch of small of various sizes already made. A bonus that was in the tin was also a mt #1 to #2. Also bought 3 8" deburring wheels with a 3" bore Locbrite brand (i believe that was the brand?) and a hold down clamp kit loaded for 20$. Wish i was able to get there yesterday bc i would have loved to see what type of things i could have gotten.


----------



## FOMOGO

Saw this on the Denver Craigs list for $200. Described as 3k new with only a few hrs use.  Called the guy, and didn't even dicker, said I would take it, and would have my son pick it up in a day or two. He said he would hold it for me and take the add down. True to his word an hour later the add was gone, and my boy picked it up a couple days later after having set up a time. He and the family brought it up Friday, as they were coming up for fathers day, and the Mustang Roundup in Steamboat. I called the manufacturer as I couldn't find a price on line. Special deal, $2750 for the vacuum, plus $500 for the hose and attachments, plus tax and shipping. As advertised, It appears to have been hardly ever used. Has two motors (high and low vacuum levels), amazingly quiet, detachable canister on casters that separates swarf and coolant, fine filter for motor protection. All metal, made in US, seems to be very well made. Every once in while you get lucky. Cheers, Mike


----------



## francist

Looks like you fell into that good deal that was foretold, Mike.....

-frank


----------



## rwm

We expect your shop to be immaculate in all future pictures....
Robert


----------



## hman

Wowsers!  A gen-you-wine BLT (Bargain of a LifeTime)!!!!


----------



## lordbeezer

Finally got lathe on bench to start tear down .appears to be in good shape.po used it reaming bushings for electric motors


----------



## FOMOGO

rwm said:


> We expect your shop to be immaculate in all future pictures....
> Robert
> 
> Well Robert, If we could change "immaculate" to "less bomb site like" I might be able to live up to yall's expectations.  Mike


----------



## roadie33

The problem with it being "Immaculate" is, you forget where you put something and have to tear into everything to find it and it becomes a mess again.
I just live with a kind of "Controlled Chaos" environment, that way I know where all the bits and pieces are.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i picked up the steel plates i've ordered couple of days ago, up to this point i've managed to get cheaper materials for my projects but this time i sure got overcharged, i paid close to 2$ per KG which is 10x more than i usually pay, but i could not find those dimensions anywhere else. Those in the next weeks will turn in wheel adapters for the little niva.


----------



## ozzie34231

Bargain box on Ebay now








						Vintage Machinist's tool box, Large 26 inch, 10 Drawer, Oak, Mid 20th century  | eBay
					

Beautiful Oak Machinist's Tool Box.



					www.ebay.com


----------



## Latinrascalrg1

Today While i had time between my youngest daughters softball games I was fortunate enough to come across a guy selling his Grandpa's Mitutoyo calipers model 505-626 in good working order with normal wear and tear type usage marks evident. Although they didn't come in a case its not something I could really complain about considering I only paid $20 for them for which I Am Completely happy with.


----------



## Superburban

GoceKU said:


> Today i picked up the steel plates i've ordered couple of days ago, up to this point i've managed to get cheaper materials for my projects but this time i sure got overcharged, i paid close to 2$ per KG which is 10x more than i usually pay, but i could not find those dimensions anywhere else. Those in the next weeks will turn in wheel adapters for the little niva.
> View attachment 297009


I know its a "little" nivia, but only three wheels?  

Seriously, I can't wait to see your plan.


----------



## GoceKU

Three wheels and two spares should be enough, haha . The forth one has already been made, and tested with the spring removed all thru the front suspension travel and should not rub.


----------



## mickri

I had been looking for a small tool chest and didn't feel like paying retail $45 to $60.  Saw an add on CL that included several tool chests including the size I was considering.  Seller wouldn't separate.  I had to buy all three.  After a little bit of haggling he finally took $60 for all three of his tool chests.  Don't know what I will do with the other two.  On the way home my mom who turns 101 in August told me that I need to buy more stuff to fill them up.




When I got them home I discovered that the seller had left a bunch of misc stuff in the drawers including some sockets and wrenches and a torque wrench.  I think that I got my monies worth.


----------



## vocatexas

Picked up a rotary phase converter at a nearby auction last week-end. It's just like this one:









						AC29 TRU-WAVE™ PC0029 -  Rotary Phase Converter Converter 29kW/40HP
					

<p><strong>This item has been discontinued and is no longer available.</strong></p>




					temcoindustrial.com
				




It looks almost new. I got it for about half what a new one costs. Not a screaming deal, but not bad.


----------



## mmcmdl

320  sanding belts into the firepit .


----------



## darkzero

mmcmdl said:


> 320  sanding belts into the firepit .



So you sanded the firepit with 320 grit or did you burn 320 belts? Knowing that you like to burn things I shouldn't even have asked!


----------



## BGHansen

Took a 1200 mile road trip with our son Steven to pick up a nice Tormach 1100 Series 3 with lots of goodies.  No issues with the 17 hour drive (one way . . . .).  I'm not a rigger by trade, had no issues with the load shifting on the way home.  I used 3/8" lags into 2x4's and 2x6's directly into the trailer's deck to lock down the corner pads of the machine (once we moved it on the trailer with a pallet jack to get some tongue weight).  Then tie strapped from the 1100's top eye bolt down to the trailer.

Only unexpected problem was unloading the Tormach from the trailer.  My shop has a 10' finished ceiling.  The hook on my HF chain fall with everything at the highest point in the finished area is about 8 1/2 feet off the floor.  The Tormach lifting bar on top of the unit ended up at about 9 feet . . .   So, on to plan B.  

Moved the trailer and gantry crane into the unfinished back half of the barn and raised the crane between the trusses.  No issues after that point.  Now that it's off the trailer, I'm good for moving it into the finished area with the crane at a lower height.

OK, here's what I brought home.  2016 Tormach Series 3 with a PathPilot controller with an expanded hard drive and memory.  Couple of water-proof keyboards, one touch screen and one back up standard monitors.  Job shuttle, automatic tool changers, around 60 TTS tool holders (combo of ER and end mill holders), Haimer probe, Tormach electronic probe, electronic tool setter, Tormach surface plate and height gauge with cable hook up to the PP computer.  Saunders fixture plate, 2 Glacern 6" vises, vacuum pallet, 4th axis with 2 tombstones, tail stock, 3-jaw/4-jaw/5-C collet chucks.  Around 30 ER collets for the tool holders, couple of sets of parallels, around 30 end mills including a few single-tooth style thread mills, 2 diamond engravers, and a slitting saw arbor.  Also have some extra goodies for the vises:  hard jaws, 20+ soft jaws, mitee-bites, I think what's called talon grip jaws, etc.  Also brought home over 300 lbs. of aluminum plate, bar and rounds.  Almost forgot, also got a MistAway MA700 mist/oil collector.  Will have to go through the boxes to inventory everything, but am pretty giddy other than the HUGE learning curve I'm facing.

On the down side, the seller made the full enclosure which worked well in his shop, but I'll be coming up with my own design.  I have the standard surround, but will come up with something with removable/hinged panels to access everything.  The seller had a couple of 100W LED floods to light the work area which did a wonderful job.  Gonna include those in my design for sure.

Yeah, WELL worth the 4 days on the road:  great time with our son and another machine for the shop!  Still have some work to do before it's up and running.  First is moving it to it's home, run 220 and 110, pick up a tub for the coolant (left the one the seller had so he could use the coolant in his saw).  Also need to design and fab up an enclosure.  The seller made up a frame of 1" square tubing and tacked 3/32" sheet steel on the sides, back and top (slider doors on the front).  The only access to the machine was through the front doors, so he had to literally climb into the booth to vacuum chips and access other areas.  I'll contemplate things a bit, but will probably go with an angle iron frame welded to a 1" tubing base.  Probably plastic removable panels around the perimeter and slider doors on the front.  The seller struggled with coolant leaking to the floor (replaced the 1/8 HP Tormach system with a 1/2 HP sump pump) and sealed everything up.  I'm planning on doing something more like a house roof or shower and just manage the coolant to the chip tray.  More to follow . . . .

Bruce


Pretty happy with the "take away" from the 17-hour drive (one way . . .)



Needed to unload from my trailer with the gantry crane in the unfinished portion of our barn.






Couple of tries to find the balance point side to side with the lifting bar table attachment.  No problems getting it off the trailer.



Lots of associated goodies.


----------



## hman

Fantastic!


----------



## ch2co

WOW


----------



## Superburban

Got me a loaded huot drill chest for $20. Randomly checking, all the drills are marked USA. Not all huot, and has sizes up to 1&1/4".  Smaller then my other huot chest, but this one came loaded.










Also picked up a nice metallic blue connecting rod. roughly 12" tall. I'm hoping one of the tank (M60) pistons I have, will look decent on it to make something cool. Could not resist for one dollar.


----------



## hman

Score!


----------



## Janderso

I scored today!
Last December I bought a Brown and Sharpe Micromaster 618, fully automatic surface grinder.
Bob Korves went with me to check it out. The owner saw me druling over his 7” shaper. He asked me if I wanted to buy it?. Yeah, I bought it too.
Just brought it home with some other goodies.
Bob Korves drove up to Lake Almanor with me. Thanks again Bob. 
A Baldor carbide grinder with coolant pump and a surface plate.!!
I pick up the Micromaster in a couple weeks.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i went to the Flea/ Tool market, i wasn't looking for anything special, but i've been needing a new set of step drills, so first thing i picked up was this set for 8$ nothing special just a china set, but then a new vendor arrived, straight from germany, i've come across this situation before and have gotten great deals so first thing to buy was a set of machinist clamps for 4$ for both then i picked this air hammer with all accessories for 8$ also a good deal but the best pick was the last. The big electric Fein impact gun, people usually go for smaller cordless tools but i need the power for those stuck axle bolts, it has a 1" square, i'll need to buy couple of reducers, from what i could quickly google there is rated 940W and 900Nm i'm assuming that is more than enough, only downfall was i had to carry it together with all the other things close to a mile to my car. It was a very hot day but a good score, i bought the impact for 55$.


----------



## tq60

At an estate sale we found a bunch of rack gears.

6 teeth per inch and about 21 inches long and 1/2 inch square.

Look like same as on small lathe bed.

One has mounting holes while rest are virgin.

Looks like it was a longer chunk that was cut into pieces.

No need for them but could not let them be tossed into the roll off...no wonder we have no room in the shop...

They were laying in the wall braces, 20 of them and with "pile price" they were basically free.
	

		
			
		

		
	




Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## Janderso

Gosh,
If I were a creative guy I may come up with some use for them. I'm sure someone could use a piece or two. Good for you. I hate waste.


----------



## GrayTech

I scored a starrett 6" machinist level and a master precision 8" level at a local market for $50 each, both in boxes and look new.


----------



## hman

Bargains!


----------



## Janderso

No you didn’t.
Pics please


----------



## GrayTech

Sorry, long days at work and a full-time hobby makes me a bit lazy in other ways, but I also love seeing all the pics so here ya go....


----------



## Janderso

FOMOGO said:


> Bought this Triumph 4 post lift ( https://liftswholesale.com/4-post/triumph-nss-8xlt-8000-lb-4-post-lift/ ) to augment my two post. My new helper "Jen" and I assembled it in about 4hrs less time spent changing out a few cheesy pieces of hardware. Really liking the fact that it is totally mobile, and that I can work on vehicles with the suspension setting at normal ride height for fabricating exhaust systems, and suspension components. Easily accommodates my extra cab F-250, and comes with a sliding jack tray for lifting wheels clear of ramps. Will be making a second jack tray so I can lift front and rear simultaneously. After pricing there optional air/hyd scissor
> jacks, I will be making two of my own for about 1/4 the cost. Over all, real happy with the quality, and function. Mike
> 
> 
> View attachment 295355



We have a four post 25,000lb lift at work.
It came with one jack tray. Priced a second one, $5,000.
We made one. Less than $350
Yep, they come in handy.
Nice shop you dog.


----------



## BenW

Found some 'junk' at the junkyard today, there was probably another 150kgs of 100mm and 120mm alu round bar, and a bunch of smaller stainless round, but I'm not sure what I would do with that much...






Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk


----------



## stioc

BGHansen said:


> Took a 1200 mile road trip with our son Steven to pick up a nice Tormach 1100 Series 3 with lots of goodies.  ....
> More to follow . . . .
> 
> Bruce
> 
> Lots of associated goodies.
> View attachment 297190
> 
> View attachment 297192
> 
> 
> View attachment 297191
> 
> 
> View attachment 297193



Wow! I'd imagine you paid the 'you suck!' price for it. All those goodies add up, I mean just the Haimer by itself is like $400+.

Why did the owner get rid of it all?


----------



## BGHansen

Paid $16K for the Tormach 1100. Only things I'm looking to pick up are a homing kit for the 4th axis and a switching outlet kit for the coolant outlet. 

The Tormach has a 110V outlet that is switched on/off by an M07/M09 command. The kits give a second outlet for either high or low current devices (2 options). Figure I'd pick up the high current one since it'll do low current too.

Still need to rig up a full enclosure.  Will temporarily go with a conduit frame and shower curtains. 

Bruce


----------



## stioc

Wow that's definitely a great price considering all the goodies and the 4th axis too. I guess the previous owner moved on to a more industrial machine?


----------



## BGHansen

stioc said:


> Wow that's definitely a great price considering all the goodies and the 4th axis too. I guess the previous owner moved on to a more industrial machine?


Previous owner works in a shop with a couple of Haas VMCs and a CNC lathe. The shop owner is renting him machine time on the weekends which is more efficient that running them on the Tormach. He has a job that took 30 minutes on the Tormach,  takes 4 minutes on the Haas.  Still have a lot to learn. . .

Bruce


----------



## stioc

BGHansen said:


> Previous owner works in a shop with a couple of Haas VMCs and a CNC lathe. The shop owner is renting him machine time on the weekends which is more efficient that running them on the Tormach. He has a job that took 30 minutes on the Tormach,  takes 4 minutes on the Haas.  Still have a lot to learn. . .
> 
> Bruce



The Haas and even the older Fadals are a notch above being made for production runs. However, for a hobbyist or a small shop the Tormach is a pretty nice machine and people have made some really neat stuff with them. You should start a thread about your new CNC adventures with your new toy so we can discuss and see your future projects!


----------



## Janderso

eBay finally produced a successful sale.
This Federal dial indicator is basically new in box.
Smooth as glass!


----------



## Cadillac

I’ve found that federal gauges don’t demand the high price of other big name indicators at least with my eBay shopping. 3/4 of my gauges are federal I love them. I have a bunch of test indicators by them. Which their one of the few that you have a lever to switch direction of reading of the gauge. I like the green of the face lense nice buy.


----------



## Cadillac

Didn’t even buy was a surprise from a friend. His company was throwing them out and new I loved storage bins. Nice little pair of Kennedy boxes. I’m gonna use for all my reamers just need to desticker and clean up.


----------



## C-Bag

Over a decade ago I spied in the HF discount bin the silver clamp in the foreground. Of course it was junk and needed much modding/patching but the idea was great but execution was bad. They were discontinued. But yesterday I was needing to be able to grab a blind corner, just what these things do best. After much searching I found these and ordered a couple. These are what the original should have been. Strong, positive clamp and the release works good. Two thumbs up! NFI yadda yadda.....


----------



## Cadillac

Was doing some midnight insert shopping last week. Got me some top notch inserts for my left hand holder. Always amazed at wide range of pricing  the more you look the cheaper they come. 18$ for 10 inserts and the first seller to package each insert to not damage. 


Then a nice little brass anvil from the local flea market today. I was surprised the lady only wanted a buck. About 3” long by 1 1/2” high no markings either.


----------



## GrayTech

BenW said:


> Found some 'junk' at the junkyard today, there was probably another 150kgs of 100mm and 120mm alu round bar, and a bunch of smaller stainless round, but I'm not sure what I would do with that much...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk


Nice score! If you have a lathe you can never have too much round stock. You can however have limited storage capacity.


----------



## GrayTech

Last Sunday at the market I scored a surface gauge with a federal. 00025 dial gauge on it for $5.
This Sunday I got a Starrett 711-D-10" last word" test indicator. 0001" in excellent condition for $25.Been looking for one for a while.


----------



## pontiac428

Cadillac said:


> Then a nice little brass anvil from the local flea market today. I was surprised the lady only wanted a buck. About 3” long by 1 1/2” high no markings either.
> View attachment 298404



That takes me back!  These little anvils were a foundry project when I was in high school metal shop.  I have no idea what ever happened to mine.


----------



## BenW

GrayTech said:


> Nice score! If you have a lathe you can never have too much round stock. You can however have limited storage capacity.


True. If it wasn't all 100 and 120mm I would have bought more, but I've never needed stock anywhere close to that size yet so I figured it's better to spend my money on something I'll use.

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk


----------



## C-Bag

Monday's are always interesting as the curb alert leftovers from weekend garage sales often yield some interesting freebies as I'm out on my morning dogwalking. I had been by this one the day before and this wasn't there. I have no idea what it was part of but the hoop rolls in the bearings and it's all my favorite quick build stuff 80/20. Free is good!


----------



## stioc

This $10 LED light to travel with the carriage. Not the brightest I've seen but it's small, has a on/off switch on the round puck (as opposed to on the wire somewhere) and a pretty decent magnet.






						Amazon.com: LED Sewing Machine Lights, ENERGY SAVING LED Machine Light for Drill Press, Desk, Craft Gooseneck Lamp Flexible LED Work Light Magnetic Lamp bed lamp Sewing Lamp Magnetic Base Light magnetic led light: Home Improvement
					

Buy LED Sewing Machine Lights, ENERGY SAVING LED Machine Light for Drill Press, Desk, Craft Gooseneck Lamp Flexible LED Work Light Magnetic Lamp bed lamp Sewing Lamp Magnetic Base Light magnetic led light: Attachments - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



					www.amazon.com


----------



## stioc

I buy a lot of junk all the time but rarely post it. Here're some machining related things I bought in the last few weeks


----------



## roadie33

stioc said:


> This $10 LED light to travel with the carriage. Not the brightest I've seen but it's small, has a on/off switch on the round puck (as opposed to on the wire somewhere) and a pretty decent magnet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: LED Sewing Machine Lights, ENERGY SAVING LED Machine Light for Drill Press, Desk, Craft Gooseneck Lamp Flexible LED Work Light Magnetic Lamp bed lamp Sewing Lamp Magnetic Base Light magnetic led light: Home Improvement
> 
> 
> Buy LED Sewing Machine Lights, ENERGY SAVING LED Machine Light for Drill Press, Desk, Craft Gooseneck Lamp Flexible LED Work Light Magnetic Lamp bed lamp Sewing Lamp Magnetic Base Light magnetic led light: Attachments - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 298525




I use 2 of those on my mill. 
Because they're LED they work great as they are easy to wipe coolant off and easy to place where you need them.


----------



## C-Bag

stioc said:


> This $10 LED light to travel with the carriage. Not the brightest I've seen but it's small, has a on/off switch on the round puck (as opposed to on the wire somewhere) and a pretty decent magnet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: LED Sewing Machine Lights, ENERGY SAVING LED Machine Light for Drill Press, Desk, Craft Gooseneck Lamp Flexible LED Work Light Magnetic Lamp bed lamp Sewing Lamp Magnetic Base Light magnetic led light: Home Improvement
> 
> 
> Buy LED Sewing Machine Lights, ENERGY SAVING LED Machine Light for Drill Press, Desk, Craft Gooseneck Lamp Flexible LED Work Light Magnetic Lamp bed lamp Sewing Lamp Magnetic Base Light magnetic led light: Attachments - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 298525


I love those little lights. Have one on my drill press, vertical bandsaw and my powdercoat booth. They are nice and bright and don't block my view. The magnet is pretty strong and the gooseneck stays right where I put it. And best of all they are cheap!


----------



## Bi11Hudson

So, what do I need with a "pin gage" set? Between fractional, wire size, and small metric drills (.1mm per step), I can measure any hole size that "I" work with. If a Nr 30 is too big, and a Nr  31 is too small, it must be around 1/8 inch fractional. Close enough for what I do. 

So, why the pin gage set, .060 to .250? Well, it was _cheap_.(Chinese? Only stepped by thousandths) And, It was shiney.(new? eBay charged tax on it, must be). I packed the box with VCI paper to maintain  the shiney. But it likely will sit on the shelf 'til I'm gone. But it's pretty, and shiney, and impressive to a novice. what can I say?


----------



## pontiac428

Bi11Hudson said:


> what can I say?



You can say you have another good tool for measuring holes!  At least in machining, size matters!


----------



## BenW

I found two brand new Albrecht chucks on a flea market for 10$ each?! 
These will be perfect for my display case since I'll never dare using them...

Also some metric name brand taps for almost-free.






Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk


----------



## Nogoingback

You're right: you shouldn't use them.  It would be smarter if you sent them to me for safe keeping.
Nice score!


----------



## Scruffy

pontiac428 said:


> I got a nice deal on an eBay lot. This stuff will be put to good use!


What kind of holder does one use for the cutter on top right?
Thanks scruffy Ron in Ohio


----------



## alloy

Picked this up at an estate sale today. The guy was into archery and had a machine shop.  Had a Haas CNC mill and an ancient turret lathe off a battleship they said.  And had a half size Enco knee mill.  I've never seen one like it before.

Everything was way over priced.  I got this for $5, it was really the only good deal there.  It's shop made, but made very well.


----------



## stioc

alloy said:


> Picked this up at an estate sale today. The guy was into archery and had a machine shop.  Had a Haas CNC mill and an ancient turret lathe off a battleship they said.  And had a half size Enco knee mill.  I've never seen one like it before.
> 
> Everything was way over priced.  I got this for $5, it was really the only good deal there.  It's shop made, but made very well.
> 
> View attachment 298691



Work stop for the vise?


----------



## alloy

Yes it is.  We have them at work that are commercially made, but they are no where near the quality of this one.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by a tool/flea market, there wasn't too much machinist tools, so only things i bought was this creeping pliers for 10$, 7mm hex bit, and few tape measures.


----------



## martik777

Got a $19 digital mic









						22.42US $ 62% OFF|0-25 Mm Electronic Outside Micrometers 0.001mm With Extra Large Lcd Screen Digital Micrometer Electronic Digital Measure Tools - Micrometers - AliExpress
					

Smarter Shopping, Better Living!  Aliexpress.com




					www.aliexpress.com
				




Review:


----------



## stioc

After years of contemplating I finally broke down and bought a 15pc set of 5C collets and collet blocks from All Industrial.
Also picked up a couple of YG1 spot drills.


----------



## Latinrascalrg1

stioc said:


> After years of contemplating I finally broke down and bought a 15pc set of 5C collets and collet blocks from All Industrial.
> Also picked up a couple of YG1 spot drills.
> 
> View attachment 298874


Would you mind sharing cost? Ive had buying a set with blocks but haven't because of being paralyzed with TOO MANY Choices and Unscrupulous Vendors!


----------



## stioc

Latinrascalrg1 said:


> Would you mind sharing cost? Ive had buying a set with blocks but haven't because of being paralyzed with TOO MANY Choices and Unscrupulous Vendors!



Sure, I've circled the important bits from my ebay history page. All Industrial is one of the few ebay vendors I trust in terms of decent quality products and more importantly if they sell a brand name like YG1 it's most likely not a counterfeit. Hope that helps!


----------



## jbobb1

Finally bought a "Y" axis power feed for my mill.


----------



## lordbeezer

Picked up a 6" Buck adjust tru chuck..1.5"X 8..


----------



## lordbeezer

Gave 100 for chuck..ok deal I guess..


----------



## mattthemuppet2

lordbeezer said:


> Gave 100 for chuck..ok deal I guess..


 pfft, made out like a bandit more like


----------



## RJSakowski

An 18KBTU MrCool DIY mini split arrived today.  It is going in the attic electronics shop space.  In a few days, I should be basking in the 72º instead of the current 85º.


----------



## stioc

RJSakowski said:


> An 18KBTU MrCool DIY mini split arrived today.  It is going in the attic electronics shop space.  In a few days, I should be basking in the 72º instead of the current 85º.



Nice, what's the sq-ft of the shop? It's been hot the last couple of days where I live. Today my 11.5k BTU portable (wheeled ones) a/c couldn't get below 79F even after 3hrs in my finished 440sq-ft garage/shop. It was 94F outside so I shouldn't complain too much.


----------



## RJSakowski

stioc said:


> Nice, what's the sq-ft of the shop? It's been hot the last couple of days where I live. Today my 11.5k BTU portable (wheeled ones) a/c couldn't get below 79F even after 3hrs in my finished 440sq-ft garage/shop. It was 94F outside so I shouldn't complain too much.


The space is 320 Sq. ft. and it is well insulated (R19 average).  However,outside of the walls and ceiling is a dead space that heats up to more than 100ºF on sunny days.   Supposedly, a 12K unit would have worked for me but I couldn't find one anywhere and I actually got a better price on the 1`8K unit.


----------



## pontiac428

Scruffy said:


> What kind of holder does one use for the cutter on top right?
> Thanks scruffy Ron in Ohio


I don't know what it was intended for, but the set screw marks make it look like a prior owner mounted it in a c-channel tool holder or a turret. I don't use inserts often, brazed or otherwise, so I may never find out.


----------



## Grinder74

I couldn't turn it down, too cheap. No marks in the clamping area so I'm guessing it was never used. China is the only marking. 4"W 5" jaw opening.

Sent from my SM-T378V using Tapatalk


----------



## Grinder74

Guess my pics aren't working or I can't post pics. It's a toolmakers vise but not the screwless type. 

Sent from my SM-T378V using Tapatalk


----------



## Grinder74

Trying again.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Sent from my SM-T378V using Tapatalk


----------



## GreatOldOne

It’s not a tool, but somewhere to store them. “Vintage” Nielsen engineers cabinet. Previous owner was a lathe operator / turner for Leyland cars back in the 60s.






So, it’s going to be the new home for all my measuring instruments.


----------



## MontanaLon

Picked all this up today. Plus a big 2x8Norton stone still in box. Was a sign on side of road for an estate sale so I stopped and he had a good bit of tools. Mitotoyu was $20 and is the only thing not USA made. Gave $35 for all of it.

Scraper is an Anderson HK42.

Did I do ok??


----------



## yarrrrr

Picked up a benchmaster from Susan and cleaned it up. Thanks Susan!


----------



## pontiac428

My Dad got a duplicate ANSI #1 tap collet holder, so he sent it to me. I had a 3/4 end mill holder on hand, and got the first pieces of my clutch tap holder collection started! Now I gotta try and grind the shanks of the tap drill bits square and to spec so I can fit them into rigid collars. Then I could drill and tap without moving the spindle out of the work feature's axis. How cool would that be?


----------



## wlburton

yarrrrr said:


> Picked up a benchmaster from Susan and cleaned it up. Thanks Susan!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 299237
> View attachment 299238
> View attachment 299239
> View attachment 299240


Cleaning up old tools and making them functional again is a lot of fun and very satisfying!


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Hasn't arrived yet, so I don't know if I wasted my money or not. But I have a number of PM articles archived and refer to them regularly. So I figure this to be a sound investment. Amazon,10 CDs for 40 bux, the list is down a ways with "popular mechanics archive" as the search, if anyone else is interested.


----------



## vocatexas

*If I could figure out how to post photos here, I'd put some up. Are there instructions somewhere I haven't found?

Drove about 185 miles and picked up a Kearney and Trecker TF-420 horizontal mill with vertical head and DRO. 13,000 lbs. of American iron. I also got several arbors, a rack with about 20 tool holders, about 100 cutters in various sizes, a K&T dividing head with plates, and a Troyke 15 inch rotary table. If my wife doesn't shoot me, I'll enjoy getting this thing into service. Now I've just got to get my shop finished.


----------



## GreatOldOne

vocatexas said:


> *If I could figure out how to post photos here, I'd put some up. Are there instructions somewhere I haven't found?



Click the files button



Select the pics from your computer in the file browse dialogue that pops up. They will appear below the text entry box like so:



Position your cursor in the text box - then either hit the insert all or the individual insert buttons next to the pic you want.


----------



## alloy

I picked this up at an online auction last Thursday.

Got it home, put some HF casters on it, and put an old little giant pump on it and now have coolant.   I'm going to replace the blade brush, and may have to replace the half but.  But overall I'm happy with it.


----------



## GoceKU

After a morning of machining i needed a 41mm wrench for a wheel bearing job i need to do and after braking the one i had, i went to the tool/flea market, i bought two wrenches, and a pack of inserts for the lathe 12$ for everything and headed back to finish the bearing job, i bought used made in germany wrenches because they are better quality than the new china ones.


----------



## Superburban

Went to an estate sale today. Scarfed a machinery's handbook, along with a few other math & machinist related books, An old coleman stove, a hardly used weller soldering iron, a set of reamers, with a homemade case. which includes MT1,2,and 3 reamers (yes, for reaming a MT taper), a handful of other hand tools, and the Wife added to the pile. All for $20.


----------



## pontiac428

I have two of those Weller soldering irons.  Best automotive soldering iron out there!


----------



## Aukai

I was going to throw mine away until I figured out that the first click was the high, and full pull was low heat.


----------



## Superburban

Between those guns, and one of these military sets, I'm mixed as to which I like better. (Pic is from the web, mine has much more wear). I have several of the guns, I pick them up when I see them for $5 or less. But this new one is by far better then the rest.


----------



## pontiac428

Superburban said:


> Between those guns, and one of these military sets, I'm mixed as to which I like better. (Pic is from the web, mine has much more wear). I have several of the guns, I pick them up when I see them for $5 or less. But this new one is by far better then the rest.


Ooh, I like that kit!  I have a couple of Weller Army-issue irons, but never seen a soldering station version like that.  I've probably got a dozen USA made irons (I solder a lot) so I don't really need any more, but I'll have to keep my eyes out for one of those.


----------



## Superburban

I picked up the soldering station a few months back, and since it has been my go to iron. Although a lot of what I have done lately is replacing bad resistors on multimeter circuit boards, where the gun style would be hard to get in with.


----------



## GrayTech

On my recent travels I bought a few ER32 collets for the most common metric shank sizes on the cheap Chinese cutting tools off eBay. 12, 16 and 20mm Bison ER32 collets made in Poland. Direct from manufacturer, paid $45CAD for the 3. I know I'll regret not getting more but I still have access. Some small diameter spotting drills, 3 and 6mm, for smaller holes I've been getting by with center drills in a custom extension I made. 
From a flea market in Poland a 16mm endmill with MT2 shank ($1.75) for those tall milling jobs where I don't have enough z height. A 5/16" slotting endmill and 2 sets of 4, 6, 8, 9, 10mm 3C collets. 
Some 6x4mm pneumatic fittings for my diy 3d printer.


----------



## matthewsx

Hilco Model 2 Universal Cutter Grinder


----------



## mickri

I have a small HF drill press vise and have been looking for a larger drill press vise.  Saw this Stanley drill press vise on CL and the seller agreed to meet me just off the freeway on my way home from visiting the grand kids.  $20  It's covered with oil and grime that I will clean off.  Otherwise it seems to be in fairly good condition.




I wonder if I can drill and tap the base for some angle iron mounting brackets.  That would make it easier to mount on the table of the drill press.  I'll figure something out.


----------



## Winegrower

Mickri, I turned my bench vise like yours into a "sine vise" by putting rods on the bottom of the vise parallel to the jaws, 5" apart.   I can clamp this little vise in my milling machine vise, and stand up one end to whatever height gives the angle I want, just like you'd adjust a sine bar.

Bar height = 5" times sin (the angle you want)


----------



## hman

The little notches on either side between the jaws look like it designed to be secured to a surface with some Z-shaped clamps.  Admittedly not as quick to use as permanently mounted brackets/ears, but maybe not too bad.


----------



## mickri

About the only thing that I like about my HF vise is the long slots on each side.  Very easy to loosen two bolts to move the vise into position.  Then tighten the bolts.  I found an old stanley catalog online with this vise.  The catalog mentions that the vise also came with a base so that it could swivel.  I'll try to figure that out too.
I'll probably make up some z shaped clamps like Hman suggested to start with.  All depends on what I have in the scarp bin.


----------



## Superburban

Have no need for these, but they were cool. The grinding wheel has a setup for sharpening drill bits. That buyanymachinetoolitus, was flaring up bad.


----------



## Superburban

Even 40 or 50 years ago, how could they make this, and ship it, wholesale it, and then finally sell it to a consumer for 89 cents? Made in Korea, looks better then the junk made in China today.


----------



## francist

"POWER FIST!"

Okay, I don't know how much of a Power Fist a 1-ton arbor press from Princess Auto can be but that's their house brand. And aside from the rather aggressive blue colour it's not too bad.




The usual shenanigans with a less-than-beefy toggle screw to lock the handle, but that was easily remedied. Other than that, I'm pretty pleased. Reasonable fits on everything, and when I checked the ram against a machinist's square it was dead on the money in both directions.




Not a Dake by any stretch, but it'll make a more sensitive compliment to the 10-ton hydraulic. But what really surprised me was was instead of the usual eighth-inch thick powder coat this was actually painted by hand, with a brush. That alone was worth the price of admission.




-frank


----------



## darkzero

Picked up a new drill sharpener today at the local Travers, on sale for $150 off. I have a Drill Doctor but I think I'll keep it around too, may not be worth selling. Also picked up a Bahco Easy-Cut "universal" bandsaw blade at the same time to try out & got a free t-shirt with my order.   








Big brown truck delivered extra discs today for my belt sander. Now I have 3 discs to put different grits on them & swap out when needed.


----------



## hman

Interesting looking drill sharpener.  What brand, model number?


----------



## darkzero

The one I got is a rebrand by Travers' brand OTMT. It's originally made by MRCM China, model MR-13D, & can be purchased for around $350 shipped on ebay or Amazon (there are sellers with US stock). I paid $150 more for the OTMT on sale. $650 is Travers' normal price. I didn't want to buy from China & didn't want a yellow machine with Chinese writing on it.    Travers is right down the street from me & I was able to look at it before making my decision to buy but it didn't take me long to decide.

There's a MR-13A model which is a little cheaper. It doesn't have the split point grinding feature but still has the relief angle feature. Travers only sells the 13D & the bigger 26D. There are videos on YT showing how it works. MRCM makes all sorts of tool grinders but I've never seen any of their other ones in the US.

Surprisingly it's very well made. Uses ER-20 collets. Fired it up when I got home, the thing is so smooth & quiet unlike my Drill Doctor that is stupid loud & vibrates all over the place. The OTMT one has an imperial dial instead of metric, the collets are metric but no big deal to me. Came with CBN wheel for HSS. I'm going to buy the diamond wheel for my carbide drills (main reason I got this). Relief angle & split point grinding is adjustable.

I'll post up a review after I have used it a bit.









						OTMT DBG13D .08
					

Machine Shop SolutionsProblem: Complicated sharpeners extend tool life but take time to learn and operate, negating the benefits.  Solution: A portable and easy-to-use sharpener offers immediate results that anyone in the shop can appreciate.Bring Dull Drill Bits Back To LifeStop Wasting Bits...




					www.travers.com
				







__





						MRCM Drill Bit sharpener MR-13D, drill bit grinder, drill bit grinder machine
					

PRODUCT INSTRUCTION1. Portable drill grinder, with grinding wheel, it can be equipped directly with an accurate angle and long service life.2.  it can sharpen the drill bit's point thinning, lip relief angle and point angle, you can control the centre spot ...




					www.zjmrcm.com


----------



## hman

Thanks!  Between my query and your reply, I'd run across your post on another thread, and found enough info to Google "Travers drill bit sharpener" ... but it came up with the DBG26D - 1" capacity and $1480!  Thanks for the links to the less expensive (½" capacity) one.


----------



## darkzero

hman said:


> Thanks!  Between my query and your reply, I'd run across your post on another thread, and found enough info to Google "Travers drill bit sharpener" ... but it came up with the DBG26D - 1" capacity and $1480!  Thanks for the links to the less expensive (½" capacity) one.



No problem. If you do decide to get the OTMT one from Travers, add a G to the end of the part number for the sale price. Sale is good till the end of the month.


----------



## Seedtick

darkzero said:


> The one I got is a rebrand by Travers' brand OTMT. It's originally made by MRCM China, model MR-13D, & can be purchased for around $350 shipped on ebay or Amazon (there are sellers with US stock). I paid $150 more for the OTMT on sale. $650 is Travers' normal price. I didn't want to buy from China & didn't want a yellow machine with Chinese writing on it.    Travers is right down the street from me & I was able to look at it before making my decision to buy but it didn't take me long to decide.
> 
> There's a MR-13A model which is a little cheaper. It doesn't have the split point grinding feature but still has the relief angle feature. Travers only sells the 13D & the bigger 26D. There are videos on YT showing how it works. MRCM makes all sorts of tool grinders but I've never seen any of their other ones in the US.
> 
> Surprisingly it's very well made. Uses ER-20 collets. Fired it up when I got home, the thing is so smooth & quiet unlike my Drill Doctor that is stupid loud & vibrates all over the place. The OTMT one has an imperial dial instead of metric, the collets are metric but no big deal to me. Came with CBN wheel for HSS. I'm going to buy the diamond wheel for my carbide drills (main reason I got this). Relief angle & split point grinding is adjustable.
> 
> I'll post up a review after I have used it a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OTMT DBG13D .08
> 
> 
> Machine Shop SolutionsProblem: Complicated sharpeners extend tool life but take time to learn and operate, negating the benefits.  Solution: A portable and easy-to-use sharpener offers immediate results that anyone in the shop can appreciate.Bring Dull Drill Bits Back To LifeStop Wasting Bits...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.travers.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MRCM Drill Bit sharpener MR-13D, drill bit grinder, drill bit grinder machine
> 
> 
> PRODUCT INSTRUCTION1. Portable drill grinder, with grinding wheel, it can be equipped directly with an accurate angle and long service life.2.  it can sharpen the drill bit's point thinning, lip relief angle and point angle, you can control the centre spot ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.zjmrcm.com



I've had my yellow version for a little over a year. It does a great job. The weakness is the quality of the grinding wheel. I've worn out 3 of the cbn wheels but I've sharpened a bunch of drills with it.
I hope you have better luck with carbide than I did. I never could get mine machine tight enough to do a good job. I even tried another diamond wheel to see if that was the problem. No deal. Carbide don't like no wiggle.
Seedtick


----------



## vtcnc

Yard sale find a couple of weeks ago for $5...dusted it off and discovered it was made down the road from me in Burlington, VT way back in the day.



Needs some paint and a new grounded cord. The little knob can be loosened and re-positioned for comfort. Appears to be about a 1/4" capacity chuck. Kind of an old school Dremel.



Powerful enough to use as a toolpost drill? Definitely in plastics, maybe aluminum...







Here is the only reliable link I could find about Fairchild Industries: Vintage Machinery


----------



## wlburton

A couple of days ago I saw a 15" Clausing drill press on Craig's List that looked interesting.  I'd been looking for a good floor model drill press and after I saw it in person I couldn't pass it up for $125.  It stands over six feet tall and weighs 310 pounds (which I'm glad I didn't know when I was unloading it by myself from my Kia Hatchback!).  After removing the mouse nest and peanut shells from the head (see below), freeing a few things up, and removing some rust, it works beautifully.  There's still a lot of rust to remove on the base.  It looked like an early 60's machine to me and Clausing confirmed that yesterday--1961.  Really big bonus: no "arc of shame."


----------



## rwm

Beautiful drill press! Here is the manual.
Also the link to my thread may help you.








						Clausing Drill Press (new to me)
					

I just received this Clausing drill press. It is in excellent shape with no functional issues as far as I can tell.    Now I need to try to get into the shop and in place! First issue: my shop is indoors with a wood floor. The floor is strong enough to hold this 350 lb item however where I...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				



Robert


----------



## Superburban

I haven seen 2 of those Clausing drill pressess, go for over $500 each at some estate auctions here several years ago. You made a great deal.


----------



## mmcmdl

Received a brand new 14n super ball bearing Jacobs chuck today . They aren't what they used to be . Also rescued 5 motors with pumps from the metal graveyard . 2 are single phase and 3 are 3 phase . Not sure what to do with them yet but the sickness continues !  Wire wheels , buffers , etc ?


----------



## Superburban

Picked up this interesting OA cutting torch, from the alexander milburn co, Baltimore Md. at  yard sale. A quick search, looks like it was made before 1945. Over 2 feet long.


----------



## Stonebriar

A shiny new vise.


----------



## Ken from ontario

darkzero said:


> I don't really do reviews but I might post a little something about it after I make a base plate for it. So far I'm pretty happy with it, especially for the price I paid. Been eyeing it for a while & waiting for a sale. I've never had anything else so nothing to compare to besides a little 8" Grizzly unit.
> 
> Well packaged, secure in the crate. Fed-Ex left it on my door step on it's side. Can easily tell which way was supposed to be up yet they decide to just lay it down on it's side. I hate Fed-Ex!
> 
> Sorry about the rant. Yeah so no damage, no rust, nothing worth noting. Just a small paint chip on the front. Made in China, I originally thought it may have been India. I have a hand shear from them, also no complaints & has been working well for me. Really the only reason I buy from them is the name, well price too. We all know what the word means universally, it's an inside joke for me.
> 
> 
> View attachment 290507
> View attachment 290508


Hi will, it's been a few months since you got your finger brake, I am thinking to get the same model but before I do I'd like to know your opinion on it, especially the 20 Ga maximum thickness capacity.
I can get a 24" brake that can bend up to 16 gauge mild steel , the price difference is about $160 ,the only reason I'm looking at the 24" is the higher capacity(16 GA max.) since I hardly do any project over 12" long ,.
Has the smaller size of your brake ever been something that made you regret buying it? has there ever been a time that you wished you could bend a heavier gauge with that brake?
What's your overall view of the quality, fit & finish, etc.
I'm not expecting a full ,detailed review, just a few words to let us know if it has been a good purchase or  not.
Thanks.


----------



## darkzero

Ken from ontario said:


> Hi will, it's been a few months since you got your finger brake, I am thinking to get the same model but before I do I'd like to know your opinion on it, especially the 20 Ga maximum thickness capacity.
> I can get a 24" brake that can bend up to 16 gauge mild steel , the price difference is about $160 ,the only reason I'm looking at the 24" is the higher capacity(16 GA max.) since I hardly do any project over 12" long ,.
> Has the smaller size of your brake ever been something that made you regret buying it? has there ever been a time that you wished you could bend a heavier gauge with that brake?
> What's your overall view of the quality, fit & finish, etc.
> I'm not expecting a full ,detailed review, just a few words to let us know if it has been a good purchase or  not.
> Thanks.



Unfortunately I haven't used it all that much still, just some little bends that wasn't the thickest gauge it's rated for. So no idea how well it handles that yet. Once I get a tig welder I'll use it more & that was the plan.

I wish I could have got a bigger model but I don't have the room. Everything I buy now has to be small & portable so I can store it away when not in use. It's not that I regret buying mine cause of the quality or size, I just wish it could bend thicker gauge material but really haven't had a need yet. But I am happy with the one I got, I'd buy it again for the price I paid.

I'd say if you can get the bigger one, do that. I made the mistake of buying a brake first by going by the size (width capacity) rather than material thickness capacity. I first purchased a Grizzly 8" unit not really paying attention to what gauge material it can bend. But I still have it & I'm able to keep it in a drawer. It's nice to have when I just need to do small quick bends on tiny stuff & it has a built in shear. If & when I have a need I'll build or buy one of those basic non finger brakes that mount to the edge of a table for thicker stuff.


----------



## Ken from ontario

darkzero said:


> Unfortunately I haven't used it all that much still, just some little bends that wasn't thick thickest gauge it'scrated for. So no idea how well it handles that yet. Once I get a tig welder I'll use it more & that was the plan.
> 
> *I wish I could have got a bigger model but I don't have the room.* Everything I buy now has to be small & portable so I can store it away when not in use. It's not that I regret buying mine cause of the quality or size, I just wish it could bend thicker gauge material but really haven't had a need yet. But I am happy with the one I got, I'd buy it again for the price I paid.
> 
> *I'd say if you can get the bigger one, do that. I made the mistake of buying a brake first by going by the size (width capacity) rather than material thickness capacity. *I first purchased a Grizzly 8" unit not really paying attention to what gauge material it can bend. But I still have it & I'm able to keep it in a drawer. It's nice to have when I just need to do small quick bends on tiny stuff & it has a built in shear. If & when I have a need I'll build or buy one of those basic non finger brakes that mount to the edge of a table for thicker stuff.


 I hear you laud and clear, that's exactly what I needed to hear,, the thickness limit of these hobby brakes is one of the reasons why they are relatively so inexpensive.
Thank you Will for your help,


----------



## mmcmdl

So , as I said yesterday , I got a brand new Jacobs 14N Super Ball Bearing chuck in here at work yesterday . Came from MSC . First thing I notice is the letters and all are etched in on the chuck . Second thing I notice is a SVC KIT etch . Third thing I did NOT notice was anything being familiar to USA . This is not one of the Jacobs BBSCs of old for sure . What gives ? I'm wondering if my order got changed upstairs for a cheaper chuck or are all new Jacobs this way ? I have 30 or so older at home and look to be better than this new one .


----------



## darkzero

mmcmdl said:


> So , as I said yesterday , I got a brand new Jacobs 14N Super Ball Bearing chuck in here at work yesterday . Came from MSC . First thing I notice is the letters and all are etched in on the chuck . Second thing I notice is a SVC KIT etch . Third thing I did NOT notice was anything being familiar to USA . This is not one of the Jacobs BBSCs of old for sure . What gives ? I'm wondering if my order got changed upstairs for a cheaper chuck or are all new Jacobs this way ? I have 30 or so older at home and look to be better than this new one .



Sadly Jacobs moved production overseas a while ago. All those BB chucks that use the SVC kit (caged bearings instead of loose individual bearings) are the ones made in China.

I'm not a fan of the etching either, looks cheap compared the older engraved ones. I have no idea about the performance on the China ones, never used one. I assume they still work good, for the price they're still charging for them they better.


----------



## mmcmdl

Will . Just read this . https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/jacobs-18n-super-chuck.68260/#post-571373

That is truly sad . I hope it performs better than it looks !  ( luckily it is for work )


----------



## darkzero

mmcmdl said:


> Will . Just read this . https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/jacobs-18n-super-chuck.68260/#post-571373
> 
> *That is truly sad* . I hope it performs better than it looks !  ( luckily it is for work )



Blame Apex (or could have been Danaher but they no longer own the Apex Tool Group). Apex Tools still own Jacobs. Apex owns many brands that you are familiar with. I'm still mad at them for killing the Armstrong brand!   They killed off Allen as well.


But yeah I'm sure it's still a good working chuck. Otherwise they wouldn't be selling at the price they still charge for them.

I took the time to find the old made in Hartford CT ones. I got 3 of the 14Ns & rebuilt them all. Also got an older 18N but I haven't rebuilt that one yet. Downside is rebuild kits are getting harder to find for the old ones. But mine won't be used in production so they'll probably last me my lifetime.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/jacobs-ball-bearing-chuck-rebuild-14n-done-my-way.28128/


----------



## mmcmdl

Well , heck ! I sure won't have far to walk to complain ……………………...as I work for Danaher . LMAO !


----------



## darkzero

mmcmdl said:


> Well , heck ! I sure won't have far to walk to complain ……………………...as I work for Danaher . LMAO !



Haha! Hmm so can you get me a good deal on Matco tools?   

Well Danaher sold Apex to some firm that owns a bunch of other familiar stores like Dominos, Staples, Dunkin Donuts, Toys R Us (well was), even AMC movie theaters.


----------



## mmcmdl

Matco ? If we ( Danaher ) own them the answer is yes and I'll look into it .  I did know they owned quite a few tool companies in the past but never looked into it , but yep , I'll check it out now .

Nice thread on the Jacobs breakdown above . If I ever get the time and energy I'll get those chucks looking as purdy as yours ! 





__





						Danaher Corporation - Wikipedia
					






					en.wikipedia.org
				




Lots to read here .


----------



## darkzero

mmcmdl said:


> Matco ? If we ( Danaher ) own them the answer is yes and I'll look into it .  I did know they owned quite a few tool companies in the past but never looked into it , but yep , I'll check it out now .
> 
> Nice thread on the Jacobs breakdown above . If I ever get the time and energy I'll get those chucks looking as purdy as yours !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Danaher Corporation - Wikipedia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> en.wikipedia.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots to read here .



Thank you but I kid I kid, my tool truck buying days are over since I no longer work on cars for a living but I still have all my Snap-On & Matco tools. I never bought any Mac stuff & I've never seen a Cornwell truck arou d here. Whatever Snap-On & Matco I buy these days are from ebay. I believe Danaher still owns Matco.


----------



## mmcmdl

Hard to tell . My head is spinning after reading that information !  I still have all my older Armstrong and Proto etc stuff at home and still buy it when I find it cheap . Don't know why , but heck , that's what we do .


----------



## darkzero

mmcmdl said:


> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Danaher Corporation - Wikipedia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> en.wikipedia.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots to read here .



Wow, interesting, I had no idea Danaher used to own Chicago Pneumatic & that Jacobs once owned Matco then split to form the Jacobs Chuck co. What's funny is Matco used to be a part Mac Tools & now they are competitors so to speak.

I get a kick out of reading about how tool companies came to be & who they used to own or was owned by. I never really cared until I became a tool addict & noticed how many tools are pretty much the same exact thing sold under different brand names. Like how Armstrong & older Matco ratchets used to be the same (era of when Danaher owned Apex). I've used Armstrong ratchet rebuild kits in some of my Matco ratchets. Now that Armstrong is no longer produced (but can still find them) the Gearwrench rebuild kits will work.


----------



## darkzero

mmcmdl said:


> Hard to tell . My head is spinning after reading that information !  I still have all my older Armstrong and Proto etc stuff at home and still buy it when I find it cheap . Don't know why , but heck , that's what we do .



Well I guess not. Looks like Matco is now owned by a co called Fortive who also owns Fluke & Tektronics. According to wiki it says Fortive is a spin off of Danaher whatever that means. Ok now my head is spinning, that's enough for me for one day.


----------



## mmcmdl

I have older sets of Gearwrenches from down the soap plant years ago . Some time back I saw a set on sale for cheap at a local store and went to pick them up . Ugh …………….this product contains lead .  Another one bites the dust .


----------



## darkzero

Got me a new machine cover. Some people will probably criticize me for not just using cheaper alternatives but ainokea.   

I've had 3 of these for like 8 yrs now & I like them. Wanted another one to cover the top of my mill & not just the table. So I bought the largest one, used that to cover the lathe & used the one I used to cover the lathe with for the top of the mill.

Price has gone up a bit since I first purchased them but whatever, I'm set now. I don't have a big workspace so they're great when I want to cover them from grinding dust, sawdust, paint overspray, or even just dust if I happen to not be able to use them for long periods of time.


----------



## vtcnc

darkzero said:


> Got me a new machine cover. Some people will probably criticize me for not just using cheaper alternatives but ainokea.


Where do you buy these? And I suppose I could look it up but it may be more entertaining if you could explain what "ainokea" means?


----------



## Latinrascalrg1

I believe "Ainokea" means "I Don't Care!"


----------



## darkzero

vtcnc said:


> Where do you buy these? And I suppose I could look it up but it may be more entertaining if you could explain what "ainokea" means?



Yes, ainokea means I don't care (Hawaiian slang). It's also a clothing brand/store in Hawaii. I used to have one of their hats & t-shirts.

They are HTC Tool Saver Covers. They're breathable & have magnets sewn in the corners but the magnets are not very strong. There are 4 sizes. I mostly use medium & larger.

Various places sell them. I purchased mine from Amazon, they seem to still be the cheapest to buy from. Price fluctuates though, like the jumbo size I just bought, I paid $40 prime last week, now it's at $45. The large size was $10 cheaper when I first bought them. Keep an eye out for the Amazon Warehouse deals though. I know I said I was done but last night I purchased the smallest size at a discounted price, new but damaged packaging.

There are Amazon reviews where they say these are not the same quality as the older thicker ones with black edging. Those must be really old, all mine have the newer green edging. I have no complaints about mine.


----------



## Janderso

Today, I received my new Kalamazoo 2X48 belt grinder.
These guys do things right.
It’s only 1/2 horse power but at 104 degrees Fahrenheit or less, the duty cycle is continuous.
In other words, it’s an industrial tool that will out live me.
I like to buy US made tools and machine tools. Yes I paid more but I am happy.
These are very handy in a shop.
My 6” Rockwell burned in the fire, this is a compromise.


----------



## Stonebriar

Jeff that is an awesome grinder. You get what you pay for with them. Nice..


----------



## Janderso

Stonebriar said:


> Jeff that is an awesome grinder. You get what you pay for with them. Nice..



I think it's going to be perfect.
I am going to mount it on a heavy free standing grinder stand so I have access room for using the tilt feature and getting free access to the bottom pulley.
These things really remove material.


----------



## Nogoingback

Been meaning to buy one of these for ages.  Great reference that's well worth the cost.


----------



## Janderso

Oh yeah, they are quick and easy. I have one on my bench. Good choice!


----------



## 38super

Republic-Lagun 6-13 surface grinder, $125.  Needs tlc


----------



## roadie33

Jeff, if you build your own stand, you might want to add a removable water tray under the belt to catch the little sparkly bits that fly everywhere.
That way you won't be accidentally catching something on fire and it's easier to empty and refill as needed.


----------



## MontanaLon

Picked this up yesterday. It's got a few dings, a little rust and some peeling paint but the price was right. 

Now to fill it.


----------



## Firstgear

Nogoingback said:


> View attachment 300736
> 
> 
> Been meaning to buy one of these for ages.  Great reference that's well worth the cost.


Ugh....saw your post and ended up ordering the book and then I added the fastener book as well.....I need to quit reading these posts!


----------



## Nogoingback

Firstgear said:


> Ugh....saw your post and ended up ordering the book and then I added the fastener book as well.....I need to quit reading these posts!



Glad I could help...


----------



## Larry42

I bought some 100 pc. boxes of metric nuts from McMaster. Got tired of never having what I needed and paying high prices for them at the local hardware store. In the past I had bought the sets of metric cap screws & flat head machine screws. They seemed expensive but come nicely organized and save a lot of trips. When I run out of a size I buy a box of 100pc. A box from McMaster costs about the same as 10 pc. at the hardware store. One time I went for cheap on eBay and got some Chinese fasteners, not worth it.


----------



## Be_Zero_Be

Got these jewelers screwdrivers from eBay.
It looks to be a NOS set with spare blades.
The cover over the spare blades is glass.
The company is still in business but this set is no longer available.


----------



## GoceKU

Today is shaping to be the hottest day this summer but i decided to visit the tool/flea market and i bought couple of things. First thing i found was this threading die holder and two dies M12, 5$. Then i bought this socket reducer 6$ new. Then i bought this knurling hand tool very interesting i've never seen one like this 5$. Then i bought this new engine mount 4$ as a spare. And finally i bought 3 old 24v makita batteries for 8$ i'll reconfigure them so i can use them in my 12v and 18v drills. Not a bad trip just the weather was way too hot my car's thermometer was showing 44 centigrade when moving.


----------



## MontanaLon

That looks like a pipe cutter I saw at a flea market once. I wonder if someone repurposed this one or if they made them both ways.


----------



## GoceKU

I also thought pipe cutter first, but i noticed knurling wheels it doesn't look modified and almost looks like is forged, very heavy duty.


----------



## hman

I like the clever lever - good way to get the needed amount of force on the knurling wheels.


----------



## woodtickgreg

Garage sale score 1 block over from me. Got the Kennedy top box for $25.00




And I scored a tub of klingspor sand paper and emery cloth for $20.00
There's a lot of sanding material in that tub. Most of it will go into the wood shop.


----------



## BGHansen

Started trimming out the new chicken coup with 1" x 2" cedar trim.  Made for heavy use of my Delta 12" miter saw and the thrown together years ago stand.  Actually was a TV stand in a previous life, then had a TRS-80 Model III computer on top of it in the late 70's/early 80's.  Made up a couple loose supports that hung on the back of the stand for storage, but time for a "real" stand.

Took advantage of a Mendards 11% off sale and picked up their Masterforce stand for around $150 after the rebate.  Much more stable on legs instead of the old stand on casters.  Adjustable work supports also have stops on the ends for repetitive cuts.  They recommend removing the saw for transport; mounting details snap off the stand and are bolted to the saw; cam locks attach it to the saws rails.  Happy with it so far but I only have my old TV stand for comparison.  One thing I'll add is a storage box for a pencil and tape measure.  It has a bracket for those, but kind of a crappy design.

Also picked up a Harbor Freight 5-drawer chest for my Tormach 1100 tooling.  I have one for my Grizzly G0709 lathe and attached a 5-C collet rack to the lid.  May do the same thing with the Tormach, have 60 or so tool holders for the mill at present.

Bruce


----------



## stioc

MT2 tailstock die holder. Looks like they fetched it out an oil bucket, wrapped it in plastic and mailed it off. Certainly doesn't look as nice as in the pics but functionally it should be fine.


----------



## ch2co

I remember waaay back when a guy that was using one of these hand  knurlers for adding grip to some round brass screwdriver thingies. Thanks for the flash back. 

The knurly grumpy old guy


----------



## Buffalo21

30,000 rounds of 22LR,


----------



## BGHansen

Buffalo21 said:


> 30,000 rounds of 22LR,


WOW!  I remember being able to buy it for $0.02 per round.  Then it got ridiculous around 5 years ago, maybe $0.15 a round if you could find it.  Hope you found it for closer to the $0.02 price.

Bruce


----------



## MontanaLon

BGHansen said:


> WOW!  I remember being able to buy it for $0.02 per round.  Then it got ridiculous around 5 years ago, maybe $0.15 a round if you could find it.  Hope you found it for closer to the $0.02 price.
> 
> Bruce


I still have some Winchester Wildcat with a price tag of 79 cents on it. Right now the price is hovering around .04 for the cheapest stuff.

I used to buy guns and ammo for a living. My biggest day was 2 million rounds of .22LR.


----------



## Janderso

Ingersoll Rand and Carbide.


----------



## matthewsx

Walking by the neighbors (summer folks, hardly ever in town) house I noticed a drill press in the garage and commented that it made the garage "proper". He said "that thing needs to go" - SO....


----------



## GoceKU

Today early in the morning i visited the tool/flea market, first thing i bought was this set of Ford wheel covers 7$ good deal they usually go sell for 3-40$ used. Then i bought me some wrenches good quality 0.40$ smaller ones and 1$ for the bigger ones, i also bought that long spark plug wrench they are russian made especially for lada's also 1$. Then come the find of the day this carl zeiss 150-200mm micrometer 10$ also a great deal.


----------



## Flyinfool

I snagged a deal on a new laptop so that I can start using Fusion 360.
16Gb Ram
4Gb Video RAM dedicated
256Gb SSD and a 1Tb HDD
2.8 to 4.0 Ghz speed.

This should get the job done for a while.


----------



## Ken from ontario

I've been working with sheet metal (Mainly copper 24 Ga.) a  lot lately so got myself a punch set and a nibbler, both are made in Taiwan and the quality is definably better that I expected;


----------



## MontanaLon

Picked this up at flea market. 

Also picked up about 20 pounds of small steel drops.


----------



## woodtickgreg

MontanaLon said:


> View attachment 301345
> 
> Picked this up at flea market.
> 
> Also picked up about 20 pounds of small steel drops.


Ok, I'll bite, what is that?


----------



## vocatexas

Looks like a west Texas plumb bob. 20 pounds so the 30 mile per hour 'breeze' doesn't blow it around. LOL


----------



## francist

Yay! My regular driver is 6 years old, this one is blisteringly fast by comparison. And packaged so perfectly as only Apple can...


----------



## MontanaLon

woodtickgreg said:


> Ok, I'll bite, what is that?


Guy said it was a recoiless rifle shell. I don't have caliper with me so don't have exact dimensions but it looks wrong for an artillery shell. No driving band. I'm leaning toward 80mm mortar but really no idea. 

I just bought it so I have bigger bullets than my neighbors.


----------



## hman

Ken from ontario said:


> I've been working with sheet metal (Mainly copper 24 Ga.) a  lot lately so got myself a punch set and a nibbler, both are made in Taiwan and the quality is definably better that I expected;
> View attachment 301323


I have the same punch ... love it!

I added a small modification that lets me use it as a "bench mounted" punch ... milled two parallel flats on the lower sides of the "chin."  These allow it to be grabbed and held in a vise.  This has proved to be so handy that I've yet to use the punch hand-held.


----------



## ch2co

I’ve got one of those punches around here someplace.........  whenever I find it, which will only happen when I’ve forgotten all about it, I too will modify it like that. Great idea. Now where’d I put my bench vise?

The Grumpy OLD Guy


----------



## Ken from ontario

hman said:


> I have the same punch ... love it!
> 
> I added a small modification that lets me use it as a "bench mounted" punch ... milled two parallel flats on the lower sides of the "chin."  These allow it to be grabbed and held in a vise.  This has proved to be so handy that I've yet to use the punch hand-held.
> View attachment 301368
> 
> View attachment 301369


That's a great idea, I'll do the same with mine, I have seen the bench mounted version but not in the smaller size we own.
 Thank you for the pictures.


----------



## MontanaLon

I am having trouble identifying it now. It is 63.5mm or 2.5" in diameter. The only reference I can find to a 2.5" gun predates WWI by a couple of decades and was a muzzle loader. I am leaning strongly toward it being an American thing as the dimensions all land on even inch or fractional dimensions and are on odd mm dimensions.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Another _contraption_ I'll likely never use... at least at what it's intended for. A (smallish) boring jig with a MT-2 shank. With an old Atlas milling machine, everything is fitted or adapted to that. Add to that I seldom work with largish stuff, mostly model work where I use a reamer for the size openings I need. 5/8 inch is about the largest I generaly cut.
A photo of the kit:
	

		
			
		

		
	



A nice looking kit, at a price I was willing to pay... cheap. Accuracy/TIR..... well, that's a whole 'nuther matter. What's going on here is that I ran across an interesting idea for cutting spheres. There were several videos on U-Tube, the attached link is just one. I thought I would set it up and see if it was as easy to do as it shows in the video. 

My tailstocks on both lathes are MT-2 as well. Now, I have an "offset" center for cutting tapers. It's a PITA to do, but it does do. Seems there is a way with a boring head as well. I may try that and make one tool do two jobs. Looks like a real PITA to do but so's what I have now. One lathe has a homemade taper fixture. A pain to set up for one piece though, I'm not a _real _machinist. So I generally use the offset center. We shall see what we shall see.

_



_
_Bill Hudson_​


----------



## Superburban

MontanaLon said:


> I am having trouble identifying it now. It is 63.5mm or 2.5" in diameter. The only reference I can find to a 2.5" gun predates WWI by a couple of decades and was a muzzle loader. I am leaning strongly toward it being an American thing as the dimensions all land on even inch or fractional dimensions and are on odd mm dimensions.


Look up the M72A2 LAW.

I do not know when they started using the blue tip to identify an inert training round. It would have to be something direct fire, so the shooter can tell if they make a hit. Arty, mortars, do not use inert rounds, they have a smoke to show where the rounds land. As you say, it does not have the rings, so it has to go with a smoothbore, and the base indicates a fin attachment. So you are looking at a rocket. The LAW, is the only weapon that I know of that fits the size.


----------



## Latinrascalrg1

So today I recieved my New Bolstar BXA wedge type QCTP that came with 6 tool holders.  This thing looks great, locks up tight with no wiggle thats observable and is pretty heavy duty.  Now I dont have alot of experience with other brands but i did own An Aloris brand of the plunger type that worked great but it was a smidge to big for my lathe. Anyways to compare the Aloris to this Bolstar I do believe I would Honestly choose the Bolstar wedge type i now have over the known High Quality Aloris brand I did have.  The bolstar does have some unsightly surface blemishes but i do not believe they are in critical areas that would effect the work piece finish.


----------



## Latinrascalrg1

Wow ok for some reason i kept getting this message when i tried to edit and add a picture to my last post!
"You do not have permission to view this page or perform this action."
I never got that before so I figured  I would try to add a 2nd post with the pic to see if it would work and it does!


The edit was to correct the tool holder count.  It should say I got 7 tool holders with the kit not 6.


----------



## ACHiPo

Bi11Hudson said:


> Another _contraption_ I'll likely never use... at least at what it's intended for. A (smallish) boring jig with a MT-2 shank. With an old Atlas milling machine, everything is fitted or adapted to that. Add to that I seldom work with largish stuff, mostly model work where I use a reamer for the size openings I need. 5/8 inch is about the largest I generaly cut.
> A photo of the kit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 301532
> 
> A nice looking kit, at a price I was willing to pay... cheap. Accuracy/TIR..... well, that's a whole 'nuther matter. What's going on here is that I ran across an interesting idea for cutting spheres. There were several videos on U-Tube, the attached link is just one. I thought I would set it up and see if it was as easy to do as it shows in the video.
> 
> My tailstocks on both lathes are MT-2 as well. Now, I have an "offset" center for cutting tapers. It's a PITA to do, but it does do. Seems there is a way with a boring head as well. I may try that and make one tool do two jobs. Looks like a real PITA to do but so's what I have now. One lathe has a homemade taper fixture. A pain to set up for one piece though, I'm not a _real _machinist. So I generally use the offset center. We shall see what we shall see.
> 
> _
> 
> 
> 
> _
> _Bill Hudson_​


That's a cool idea.  The guy in the video didn't say what kind of tool he used.  It didn't look like a boring tool?


----------



## Bi11Hudson

It isn't a boring tool, at least not an original. The cutter is an "end" cutter. Maybe could be made from one of the kit cutters. I'm working on the shank right now... Since the cutter mounts to the tool post of the lathe, it cuts against the rotation of the work. Essentially 90* rotation for what is "normal". One of the videos goes into the shape of the cutter, but I didn't post that one. You might follow some links to see other versions of the contraption. This one was merely the simplist to build.

.


----------



## wlburton

I bought this Atlas 7B shaper at an estate sale last weekend.  Getting all 430+ pounds of it out of a basement with the help of the very strong young woman who was running the estate sale was not easy (she volunteered to help and we amazingly pulled it off--as disassembled as I could get it but with the largest piece well over 200 pounds).  I've decided to take it most of the way apart for cleaning--it doesn't have any rust but is covered with oil, grease, and dirt--so it may be some time before it's functional again.  Everything on it did seem to work before I started breaking it down.  Like most shapers, it may end up being mostly a conversation piece, but I am trying to come up with some things to use it for.  I couldn't resist it for $250.  I'll have to come up with some projects that require internal keyways, I guess.  This photo was taken at the estate sale.  I like the chip guard and chip tray that the previous owner installed and they will be going back on.


----------



## tq60

A tool post grinder for $50.00...

With box and some wheels.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## 34_40

Man oh Man.. you guys found some great deals!   Color me green!


----------



## darkzero

Got me a trash can for the garage at the flea market. Surprisingly I've never had a trash can in my garage, just been using a plastic bag hanging from the bench.

Most of my trash in the garage are dirty shop towels. Rarely ever oil soaked enough where they are a fire hazard but this trash can is just for that.

Wasn't a steal but it's like new condition & it's made by Eagle, same Eagle that used to make oil cans like the ever so popular Eagle 66. They don't make em like this anymore, well not by Eagle. New ones are plastic. I'm happy.


----------



## Ken from ontario

darkzero said:


> Most of my trash in the garage are dirty shop towels. Rarely ever oil soaked enough where they are a fire hazard but this trash can is just for that.


I need a can like that but haven't seriously looked for deal on it although it's always in the back of my mind to get one.


----------



## silverhawk

I saw someone listing an old cantilever kennedy tool box on our local classifieds. It's a little dinged up, and chipped up a little bit.  I was looking for a small cantilever tool box to put my fly fishing/tying vise and tools, but this turned out to be a little bigger than I thought.  My wife says I have too many tool boxes, but this one couldn't hurt to have.  It's a Kennedy 1017-336418 . I may need to just build a box for my fly tying stuff.
















I might use it for my 3D printer, soldering iron, and geeky stuff, but I'm not sure yet.


----------



## DiscoDan

Lufkin 299A Universal Dial Test Indicator (sticky - needs work)
H.G. Cisin's Vacuum tube substitution guide
Accurate Instrument Co Model 257 Operating Instructions


----------



## hman

Good grief, am I slow.  When I read "vacuum tube substitution guide," I was thinking of different diameters of hose to be run between a vacuum pump and the item to be evacuated   My only excuse is that I've designed, built and run a number of high and ultra high vacuum systems ... much more recently than I've dealt with thermionic valves.

PS - Nice Lufkin!  Looks a lot like the Starrett #196 set I bought years ago - matter of fact, the very first precision instrument I ever bought!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

bought this for $47 off Amazon. Been after a decent metric dial indicator for years and jumped on this one. Not my best Amazon deal ever (only down from $118 ), but I'm happy. I'll let the kids "buy" it for me for Christmas.






sorry about the huge pic, couldn't figure out how to get a smaller one.


----------



## rwm

Robert


----------



## Logan 400

I actually did not purchase these. My son purchased them for $10.00 and gifted them to me.


Jay


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by the flea/ tool market i did lots of walking but there wasn't too much to buy, i did bought this MT3 drill chuck, very beet up but still works and it has its key at the same vender i also bought that drill bit new all in 5$.


----------



## mmcmdl

darkzero said:


> Got me a trash can for the garage at the flea market. Surprisingly I've never had a trash can in my garage, just been using a plastic bag hanging from the bench.
> 
> Most of my trash in the garage are dirty shop towels. Rarely ever oil soaked enough where they are a fire hazard but this trash can is just for that.
> 
> Wasn't a steal but it's like new condition & it's made by Eagle, same Eagle that used to make oil cans like the ever so popular Eagle 66. They don't make em like this anymore, well not by Eagle. New ones are plastic. I'm happy.



Will , have 2 of these in the shop at work that never get used . Our rags are emptied nightly and these cans sit un-used . I can't tell you how many times I've moved them just to get them out of the way !  They'll most likely end up in the dumpster very soon , unless I intercept them first .


----------



## BGHansen

Picked up a 10-pc. pack of 60-grit 9" sanding discs for my Craftsman disc/belt sander.  Gotta love Amazon, $13.33 delivered to my mailbox.  My old discs were 35 years old and required contact cement to glue them to the 9" aluminum platen.  PSA is so much nicer.

Also found an indicator stand and indicator at a yard sale.  I don't go to many yard sales, but there was one next to my in-laws house, so made a quick get away for some shopping . . .   The indicator stand is a new one on me.  It's a Brown & Sharpe with a segmented magnetic base.  The stack of plates are permanently magnetized; there's no ON/OFF knob.  There's a clamp on the front that locks them into place.  With the clamp undone, the plates are free to float so I guess you can make the stand fit to an oddball surface, then lock the plates in place.  The Starrett indicator works great, now I just need to figure out how to get it switched to English.  Paid $10 for the pair.

Bruce


10 60-grit sanding disc from Amazon for $13.33




Starrett digital indicator and Brown and Sharpe indicator stand


----------



## francist

Can’t let Bruce have all the fun.... 

Got this last week, not quite NOS but close. Extremely little use and everything is still nice and crisp. Second set of jaws fits but isn’t the exact serial match for chuck, so they run on the stiff side. Respectable runout on the face as well as the outside gripping jaws, so I’m pleased. Will fit the 618, the Craftsman of the same size, and the MF mill should I so desire. Made in England.







-frank


----------



## Tinker2

An Evolution EVO380 15" Steel Cutting Chop Saw



and a Thermal Dynamics CutMaster 60i Plasma



Life is good!!


----------



## stioc

The standard chuck on a TTS endmill holder was always a bit too long compared to the other tooling and sometimes required me to move the Z axis on my mill if I didn't plan for it right. So I gave Tormach my money for a 3/8" chuck and a JT2 tool holder. It's about 1.75" shorter than the old setup so I'm happy...I already have shorter drill bits to go with it.


----------



## stioc

I ordered the slitting saw arbor a couple of days ago and then lucked out on Craigslist with these 4 US made saws for $10...I did have to drive 60 miles for them


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by a tool/flea market just to see what there is, first thing to buy was this power washer brush for 1$ then i found a vender selling some taper drill bits and attachments most of them in terrible shape but those extended reducers wore a good deal at 10$ so i bought them. And last thing i bought was this big 4 jaw lathe chuck, by looking at the flange it may be original for my lathe, i'll have to remove my chuck to check which will be amazing i paid 35$ for it, also very cheap considering how much others are asking for them.


----------



## stioc

^ that's a big chuck, must weigh a lot? what's the diameter?


----------



## GoceKU

The chuck is 400mm in diameter.


----------



## stioc

GoceKU said:


> The chuck is 400mm in diameter.



Wow! my rough calculation says the chuck weighs about 300lbs! That's a big lathe!


----------



## GoceKU

I don't know how you made your calculation but from the pictures as you can see is hollow from the back side, and i managed to pick it up and down couple of times with my injured back it is probably less than half that. The lathe is not big by industrial standards but is no hobby machine, it almost toppled over a 3,5t forklift when i brought it home, i have written about it when i first joined this forum i'll put the link here : https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/new-member-from-kumanovo-macedonia-europe.60652/


----------



## Bi11Hudson

So  I got this new _toy_ delivered. Piece of cake... I thought. I have a small oxy/acet "jewelers" torch that is a little too big for what I'm trying to accomplish. Well, too big for my clumbsy hands to work with. Even though I built a fuel gas system for Propane, the Oxygen in cylinders is a little hard to come by. As in, my tanks are grossly out of date for a hydro test. It's a "Smith" tool, supposedly well known in the jeweler business. I got mine from eBay. Cheaper that way...


So, I bought this Chinesium contraption that uses self made Oxy-Hydrogen fuel. A cool idea, making the fuel gas out of water.


It uses a low power mixture, 15%, of Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH, lye, Drano) for power. Well, in my day, lye and/or Drano, were available at virtually any grocer. Not so these days. Everything is a "gel" to make it operate "better", and be safer to handle. I highly suspect a political connection here so won't take it any further. But I could use some insight into where it is still available, if it is.


----------



## stioc

Got a new non-US made slitting saw...comparing it to the used US saw the teeth are very pointy. Anyone know which design is better and why? my guess is the new saw will cut well at first but then the points will wear off quickly but since I'm new to slitting saws I have no idea.


----------



## Janderso

Bought a Fisher Scientific Stereomaster on Ebay.
It works great, 2 lamps work perfect. I can see what I'm missing now.
Carbide tooling integrity, HSS edges, surface finish up close.
Did I reallly need one of these?
No, but I always wanted one and the price was not bad.
These pics are about the best I could do with my phone. It's a serrated knife edge. COOL


----------



## RJSakowski

silverhawk said:


> I saw someone listing an old cantilever kennedy tool box on our local classifieds. It's a little dinged up, and chipped up a little bit.  I was looking for a small cantilever tool box to put my fly fishing/tying vise and tools, but this turned out to be a little bigger than I thought.  My wife says I have too many tool boxes, but this one couldn't hurt to have.  It's a Kennedy 1017-336418 . I may need to just build a box for my fly tying stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might use it for my 3D printer, soldering iron, and geeky stuff, but I'm not sure yet.


I have that same tool box.  I bought mine back in the 1960's.  It couldn't have cost much because I didn't have a lot of money back then.  It is still going strong and I use it for my socket wrenches and other associated tools.  I toted it down to Jackson MS on a Greyhound bus one time to bail my ex out when she stripped the splines on the transfer case shaft on her 4WD truck.  It rarely moves nowadays and only a few inches at that. as it is too heavy to comfortably lift anymore.


----------



## RJSakowski

Bi11Hudson said:


> So  I got this new _toy_ delivered. Piece of cake... I thought. I have a small oxy/acet "jewelers" torch that is a little too big for what I'm trying to accomplish. Well, too big for my clumbsy hands to work with. Even though I built a fuel gas system for Propane, the Oxygen in cylinders is a little hard to come by. As in, my tanks are grossly out of date for a hydro test. It's a "Smith" tool, supposedly well known in the jeweler business. I got mine from eBay. Cheaper that way...
> View attachment 303067
> 
> So, I bought this Chinesium contraption that uses self made Oxy-Hydrogen fuel. A cool idea, making the fuel gas out of water.
> View attachment 303068
> 
> It uses a low power mixture, 15%, of Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH, lye, Drano) for power. Well, in my day, lye and/or Drano, were available at virtually any grocer. Not so these days. Everything is a "gel" to make it operate "better", and be safer to handle. I highly suspect a political connection here so won't take it any further. But I could use some insight into where it is still available, if it is.


I bought lye in the plumbing section of the local DIY last year.  Not nearly as cheap as it used to be though. $6/lb.  Lots of it on eBay but expensive.  Walmart sells it as well at $5/lb., free delivery to store.


----------



## RJSakowski

Bill, I have been toying with making my oxygen and possibly hydrogen for my torches.  I have O/A tanks but they always seem to be empty when I need them.  The supplier is in the middle of the city and it is a pain getting down there, not mention hauling tanks around in the back of a minivan.  

I will really be interested in how well your new oxygen generator works.


----------



## royesses

Bi11Hudson said:


> So  I got this new _toy_ delivered. Piece of cake... I thought. I have a small oxy/acet "jewelers" torch that is a little too big for what I'm trying to accomplish. Well, too big for my clumbsy hands to work with. Even though I built a fuel gas system for Propane, the Oxygen in cylinders is a little hard to come by. As in, my tanks are grossly out of date for a hydro test. It's a "Smith" tool, supposedly well known in the jeweler business. I got mine from eBay. Cheaper that way...
> View attachment 303067
> 
> So, I bought this Chinesium contraption that uses self made Oxy-Hydrogen fuel. A cool idea, making the fuel gas out of water.
> View attachment 303068
> 
> It uses a low power mixture, 15%, of Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH, lye, Drano) for power. Well, in my day, lye and/or Drano, were available at virtually any grocer. Not so these days. Everything is a "gel" to make it operate "better", and be safer to handle. I highly suspect a political connection here so won't take it any further. But I could use some insight into where it is still available, if it is.



Lowes:


			https://www.lowes.com/pd/Roebic-Laboratories-Inc-32-oz-Drain-Cleaner-Crystals/4751600
		


Amazon also sells it.

Roy


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Thanx Guys;
I'll look it up. Being stuck in a wheelchair is a pain in the wazoo!

.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

RJSakowski said:


> Bill, I have been toying with making my oxygen and possibly hydrogen for my torches. I have O/A tanks but they always seem to be empty when I need them. The supplier is in the middle of the city and it is a pain getting down there, not mention hauling tanks around in the back of a minivan.
> 
> I will really be interested in how well your new oxygen generator works.



R J -The toy is just that, a toy to most  people's perspective. Up front, the fuel gas(H2) and oxygen are not seperated. Basically a one hose machine. The other aspect of the whole idea is that... Think of me as one or two steps removed from a jeweler. I work with small model parts, H-O scale trains. The torch rig would not produce enough gas to do soldering on copper pipe, I suspect. Well, I don't expect it to, although I may try it sometime just to see. 

Generating your own gasses through electrolysis is laudable, I personally know of a couple of fellows that use the idea for gasoline pick-ups. I don't keep track of what they're doing, but they have spoken of considerably improved milage. I suspect the same techniques could be used for torch gasses. The oxy and H2 would need to be held seperate and in considerably higher quantity (and explosivity) to do any real work. The toy I'm trying is actually sold to "polish" cut edges on acrylic sheets. I don't expect much real use for anything larger than my models. 

I have an Oxy Acet rig, small but good for about 1 inch, I think. And the usual Butane / Propane plumber's torches, including a "TurboTorch". And, of course, the jeweler's torch that I have adapted to Propane. But since the last stroke(6) I'm stuck in the chair and don't pursue the "heavy" work any more. That's why my O2 tank got timed out. I considered a shifty deal with a local blacksmith, but never pursued it. He was willing, I just didn't feel right burning the local supplier.

.


----------



## RJSakowski

Thanks Bill

I wouldn't like the idea of the mixed gases. To me that would be a recipe for disaster. 

I have done some calculations as to generation rate and it doesn't seem practical to generate on demand.  Alternatively, the thought was to generate by electrolysis and compress the oxygen to around 200 psi using something like a the 20 lb. L.P. tank.


----------



## hman

Bi11Hudson said:


> It uses a low power mixture, 15%, of Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH, lye, Drano) for power. Well, in my day, lye and/or Drano, were available at virtually any grocer. Not so these days. Everything is a "gel" to make it operate "better", and be safer to handle. I highly suspect a political connection here so won't take it any further. But I could use some insight into where it is still available, if it is.


Sounds like you got some options going already.  Other possibilities - if there's a DIY soap store near you, you can probably find lye there.  Don't spend extra for "food grade" or "laboratory grade."  The cheapest will do the job.  Here are a couple Amazon sellers:


			Robot Check
		






						Amazon.com: Red Crown High Test Lye for Making Award-Winning Handcrafted Soaps 2 lb. (1, Non-Food Grade): Gateway
					

Buy Red Crown High Test Lye for Making Award-Winning Handcrafted Soaps 2 lb. (1, Non-Food Grade): Industrial & Scientific - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



					www.amazon.com
				



Yes, the first is "food grade," but the price is the same.

By the way, you can substitute potassium hydroxide.  Generally more expensive, but maybe you can find a bargain.  Here's two Amazon sources:





						Potassium Hydroxide Flakes - 2 Lbs.: Amazon.com: Gateway
					

Potassium Hydroxide Flakes - 2 Lbs.: Amazon.com: Gateway



					www.amazon.com
				








						Amazon.com: Essential Depot Potassium Hydroxide Flakes KOH, 2 lbs Caustic Potash Anhydrous KOH Dry Electrolyte - HDPE Container with resealable Child Resistant Cap: Gateway
					

Buy Essential Depot Potassium Hydroxide Flakes KOH, 2 lbs Caustic Potash Anhydrous KOH Dry Electrolyte - HDPE Container with resealable Child Resistant Cap: Standards - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



					www.amazon.com


----------



## Bi11Hudson

I wouldn't like the idea of the mixed gases. To me that would be a recipe for disaster.
-       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -
EDITED, with afterthoughts
-       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -
And me with a wood frame structure for a shop. Definately work outside until I have a handle on this thing.
-       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       - 
It strikes me that friend Larry uses a variable output device similar to an old timey acetylene generator, where the "deeper" the process goes the higher the output. I'm not sure if such a control would satisfy your "on demand" needs, but it does work on his pick-up. Ford 300 six, carburated.
-       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       -       - 
BTW; I already ordered a two pound sack. Food grade but that's what it took to get a large quantity. Soap, huh, I should have known that, just don't think as clear as I once did.

.


----------



## ACHiPo

Janderso said:


> These pics are about the best I could do with my phone.


Jeff,
Obviously you need to get a stereo zoom scope with a camera mount and leave that one on the free table!

Nice score!


----------



## 34_40

Bi11Hudson said:


> So, I bought this Chinesium contraption that uses self made Oxy-Hydrogen fuel. A cool idea, making the fuel gas out of water.
> It uses a low power mixture, 15%, of Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH, lye, Drano) for power. Well, in my day, lye and/or Drano, were available at virtually any grocer. Not so these days. Everything is a "gel" to make it operate "better", and be safer to handle. I highly suspect a political connection here so won't take it any further. But I could use some insight into where it is still available, if it is.



Do you know anyone who works at a local water or waste water plant? We use it for various purposes, odor control / disinfection being a couple.


----------



## pontiac428

I had a great day at the auction.  Scientific approach, precision execution!


----------



## mickri

Well I wouldn't say that I had a great day at an auction today.  There was supposed to be a South Bend heavy 10 and some tooling up for auction.  It all got sold prior to the auction.   I was interested in the tooling  There was some other stuff like bench grinders and belt sanders, drill presses, etc.  Nothing worth dragging home. But I didn't come away empty handed.  One of the things on my shopping list to pick up on my way home was gas for my chainsaws.  Didn't have to make that stop.  Got a 5 gallon jug filled with gas for $10.  I needed a new 5 gallon jug and the gas was an added bonus.


----------



## Superburban

Bought an interesting tackle box, only to find out it is made by Kennedy. Has been repainted at least once. But good condition, and comes with the key (which I never use anyway). Drawers are plastic, with a metal front.


----------



## stioc

pontiac428 said:


> I had a great day at the auction.  Scientific approach, precision execution!


Congrats! Is it just me or WA seems a bit like Michigan where you can find great deals on machining equipment. Michigan we all know has had a lot of influence from the auto manufacturers so it makes sense that there's a lot of machining equipment there but WA surprises me. I need to move there lol


----------



## DiscoDan

I didn't actually buy these, I just saw them in my travels to various antique stotes this weekend.
1. Fowler countersink gauge - is this useful outside an industrial setting? There was no price.
2. Powerstat Variable Autotransformer - is this useful for anything machining related? They were asking $25.
3. Peacock dial indicator. On the face it says 0.01-10mm. I assume that means that 0.01 is the smallest metric measurement and 10mm is the maximum, correct? No picture. They were asking $20.
4. Mitutoyo 500-196-30 CD-6 electronic caliper. No case and no battery, so couldn't test it. They were asking $40.


----------



## darkzero

I'll splurge for quality tools when I can but I'll be cheap about it & won't pay full price if I can.  
I suppose that's just the part of us where we like to find good deals.

Been patiently watching ebay, finally won some good deals. M18 3/8" Compact impact with a CP3.0HO battery. And a pair of M12 CP3.0 batteries. Didn't need the charger but it was more than free for the price. Love my 1/2" Mid-Torque impact but missed using my 3/8" air impact when I worked in automotive. The M12 CP3.0 batteries are for my M12 ratchet.


----------



## darkzero

Got me another tool cart. Had the gen1 cart for yrs but always wanted a black one. Finally a good coupon price so I picked up the gen2.





I cut the ends of the drawer latches off so I could open the drawers without having to open the lid. I stuck the cut off ends back into the caps so I can still lock the drawers by putting the caps back on when needed.








Unlucky me, 1st two carts were damaged. Luckily I purchased a hydraulic lift cart during the Labor Day sale. I would have been doing a lot of cussing trying to figure out how to load & unload all them tool carts by myself. It also made assembling the tool cart easier & without help this time.


----------



## stioc

@darkzero , is that the 500lbs capacity hydraulic table or the the 1000lbs? I've been meaning to pick one up for for a while but haven't yet.


----------



## darkzero

stioc said:


> @darkzero , is that the 500lbs capacity hydraulic table or the the 1000lbs? I've been meaning to pick one up for for a while but haven't yet.



It's the 500. I would have liked the 1000 as it lifts higher & gets closer to my tailgate height (on flat ground) but the 1000 is too heavy to lift by myself. If I ever need to load it in my truck to take it some where I wouldn't be able to by myself. My driveway is sloped so the 500 works out fine for me. Don't think I would ever have a need to lift something over 400 lbs anyway. If I do I'll just call some friends to help.


----------



## stioc

darkzero said:


> It's the 500. I would have liked the 1000 as it lifts higher & gets closer to my tailgate height (on flat ground) but the 1000 is too heavy to lift by myself. If I ever need to load it in my truck to take it some where I wouldn't be able to by myself. My driveway is sloped so the 500 works out fine for me. Don't think I would ever have a need to lift something over 400 lbs anyway. If I do I'll just call some friends to help.


Those have been my thoughts too, if only the 500lbs had a higher lift it would be perfect for my purposes.


----------



## Cadillac

Hit the local flea market yesterday was a good day for deals. Found a mt3 Jacobs chuck w/key for 5 bucks. Jaws look good just needs alittle cleaning. Another guy had a random transfer V block and starrett thread gauge got for 10 bucks. Then a guy with a brand new 0-1 starrett mic and  full indicator points set for the killer price of 20 bucks. And he threw in a very small Sgs carbide center drill new. Was a good day.


----------



## frostheave

Hey Will, I have never seen Milwaukee impacts with the black bodies.  Are those removable black rubber covers on yours?
Thanks
Bob


----------



## stupoty

I got a new welding mask, the rechargeable cells died in my old cheep'y mask, this one was still quite cheep but came from a reputable supplier, has BS safty markings and 4 light sensors , also the larger viewing area shield, having used it today the image seems very good through it, slightly better visibility than the very basic one I had. 

and a very comphy head strap thingy.

Yay,



			https://cpc.farnell.com/sip/2884/meteor-2300-electronic-headshield/dp/TL19172


----------



## darkzero

frostheave said:


> Hey Will, I have never seen Milwaukee impacts with the black bodies.  Are those removable black rubber covers on yours?
> Thanks
> Bob


Yes they are rubber, sold separately. They only have em for square drive impacts & the ratchets. I've never seen em for impact drivers or drills. They'll have one for the right angle die grinder that's coming out soon. Probably cause they're geared more for automotive use but usually for automotive air tools the covers are vinyl.

They're pretty expensive for what they are IMO but they are nice. Thick rubber & they fit very tight. One thing I hated about the vinyl ones in my air tools is that they get very hard over time. Have to heat them to get em off or cut em. On ratchets, some of them even when new I had to put in hot water to get em on.


----------



## ddickey

I bought a Chandler Duplex Boring Head at an auction sight unseen. Picked it up today, looks perfect. I think I paid too much though.


----------



## frostheave

darkzero said:


> Yes they are rubber, sold separately. They only have em for square drive impacts & the ratchets. I've never seen em for impact drivers or drills. They'll have one for the right angle die grinder that's coming out soon. Probably cause they're geared more for automotive use but usually for automotive air tools the covers are vinyl.
> 
> They're pretty expensive for what they are IMO but they are nice. Thick rubber & they fit very tight. One thing I hated about the vinyl ones in my air tools is that they get very hard over time. Have to heat them to get em or cut em. On ratchets, some of them even when new I had to put in hot water to get em on.


Good info.
Thanks Will.

Bob


----------



## pontiac428

I found a Rennsteig scraper for $19... In Poland. It's home is in my toolbox now.


----------



## DLF

some vintage tools in excellent condition:

- machinist's level. German made, 300mm, 0.02mm/m
- interior micrometers: 2 sets totaling 100...300mm measurement range
- 100mm depth gage set
- protractor

All sets are complete and in great shape except for the foam in the boxes which has disintegrated over time and must be cleaned and replaced.

All for 150$

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk


----------



## mmcmdl

Had to visit the local Horrible Freight store today . Walked away with 5 battery tenders , 5 storage containers , 4 1/2" D rings for the trailer and 2 sets of those $29 tool kits . I'm throwing the tool kits up at the other plant , I'm tired of packing my good tools up and lugging them up the road . If they disappear , no loss .


----------



## mmcmdl

Picked up a Baldor 8" grinder with stand this week , not sure why other than it's in absolutely mint condition . I just sold my other one a few months back so I guess my tool sickness hasn't been fully cured !


----------



## pontiac428

Not all rotary power comes from Mazda. This is for the big Lagun, whose electrical panel is too fancy and too pretty to splice a VFD into.


----------



## DLF

A beautifull sunny automn day can only be started with a trip to the flea market.

Picked up an old dial indicator for 5€. Check out the manufacturing year: 1982!!!

I plan to put it in the drill chuck and use it for locating work (especially holes). Should work better than an edge finder.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk


----------



## RJSakowski

DiscoDan said:


> 2. Powerstat Variable Autotransformer - is this useful for anything machining related? They were asking $25.


The price for new Powerstats/Variacs, etc. is insane.  The replacement brush alone for one can exceed five times that $25.  As far as usefulness, it has use.  If you are powering up a questionable circuit, you can ramp up slowly rather than blowing a fuse or popping a breaker.  Also useful for controlling heating elements, etc.  A 10 amp Powerstat is a nice size.


----------



## Latinrascalrg1

DLF said:


> A beautifull sunny automn day can only be started with a trip to the flea market.
> 
> Picked up an old dial indicator for 5€. Check out the manufacturing year: 1982!!!
> 
> I plan to put it in the drill chuck and use it for locating work (especially holes). Should work better than an edge finder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk


Lol if the vintage year of 1982 demands so many exclamation marks I could Just imagine something pre1950s!!!!


----------



## DLF

Latinrascalrg1 said:


> Lol if the vintage year of 1982 demands so many exclamation marks I could Just imagine something pre1950s!!!!


Well, perhaps for machinery.

But these DTIs are cheap and generally consumables. Therefore for one surviving in good working order for almost 40 years is not common.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by the tool/ flea market looked at some measuring tools but they wore in very bad shape so i did not buy them, but i managed to find and buy a magnetic level i also bought a trailer socket, also bought one more set of handbrake cables for the little niva, this one is from a lada sedan is a bit longer then the first one i bought and hopefully will be long enough to reach the new brake calipers i install on the Little Niva.


----------



## Esmith41

No pics but I picked up a new cross slide screw for my 13” SB from Miller Machine and Fabrication. It took care of .080 of backlash I had.


----------



## Ken from ontario

stioc said:


> Those have been my thoughts too, if only the 500lbs had a higher lift it would be perfect for my purposes.


I've been looking at the 500LB  lift carts and the one I like goes as high as 28-5/8", after reading  the posts here about these carts, I searched a bit more and found a few (of the same capacity lifts) that go as high as  35",wow,, but the PRO.POINT will be plenty for me. As Will says, I doubt I'll ever need to lift anything heavier than 400-500 LBS
.


----------



## jwmay

A steady and follow rest that were misidentified on EBay. I’m pretty happy with them.


----------



## darkzero

Wanted an Aloris #6 holder for a while. Prices for well used on ebay w/ shipping is the same price I can buy from MSC new. Finally found one for a good price & in great condition.




That's all for machining related this round. Got me a couple of new Milwaukee lights. Recently picked up M12 CP3.0 batteries so I was left with extra CP2.0 batteries. Not worth the money selling so I picked up a M12 stick light. I already have the M18 stick light which I use a lot. Also picked up the newer folding Rover light. Ordered from HD cause for not much more they had em with an extra battery & stand alone charger. I like the Rover stick light but I love this folding one even more. It's even brighter & the magnets are actually useable!




My Milwaukee light arsenal. The USB Rover lights are much brighter than the M12 & M18 stick lights but the M12 & M18 stick lights last for ever which is nice. Can you tell I'm a Milwaukee fan by now?  




Wanted a new cordless screwdriver for use around the house (inside). Had to be small, inexpensive, & Micro USB rechargeable (hate having so many different chargers), power I don't care, I have other bigger tools for that. This Skil fit the bill. I have a Hammerhead screwdriver that I got from Lowes yrs ago for $7 but I hate the rotary switch. Can't use the switch when holding it in a downward position. Used the Skil a few times already, pretty handy & I like it. Hope it doesn't break too soon..


----------



## savarin

Milwaukee is  owned by Techtronic - a massive Hong-Kong based investment enterprise.


----------



## darkzero

savarin said:


> Milwaukee is  owned by Techtronic - a massive Hong-Kong based investment enterprise.



Yep, not sure where you are going with that but they own other familiar brands also  like Ryobi & Hoover. Mikwaukee Tools are made in China yet they are quality tools. Proof of one example that China can make good stuff if they are paid to. I'm not one of those buy USA only type of guys. COO don't matter to me. 

And Skil & Skilsaw (seperate brands now) are now owned by Chevron, same group that owns Ego (gardening tools sold at HD), also a Chinese enterprise. The Skil today is not a brand I would normally buy though.


----------



## savarin

I just thought I would mention it I was very surprised to see how many companies they own today.
And I buy Chinese mostly because there is nothing made in Australia but also on cost and yes, a lot of their stuff is excellent quality.


----------



## darkzero

savarin said:


> I just thought I would mention it I was very surprised to see how many companies they own today.
> And I buy Chinese mostly because there is nothing made in Australia but also on cost and yes, a lot of their stuff is excellent quality.



Ah ok, haha. I knew you weren't one of those guys who oppose Asian made tools so I was a bit confused.

Many people would be surprised by  who owns what of all the familiar brands they know. I too was one of them. Like I had no idea Rubbermaid used to own Lenox & Irwin & was very surprised before they were sold to Stanley Black & Decker.

I find it very interesting on who owns what.









						Tool Brands: Who Owns What? A Guide to Corporate Affiliations
					

Which company owns which tool brands? Our guide shows which of your favorite tool brands are actually owned by other companies.




					toolguyd.com
				




Like Danaher, they used to own all kinds of tool brands I was familiar with & used and had no idea at the time. Many have been sold to Apex though & they killed a few brands. Still sad that Apex killed the Armstrong & Allen brands. I still call hex keys Allen wrenches.


----------



## savarin

doesnt everyone call them Allen keys or wrenches?


----------



## pontiac428

savarin said:


> doesnt everyone call them Allen keys or wrenches?


Only people who use Phillips screwdrivers and Crescent wrenches.


----------



## darkzero

savarin said:


> doesnt everyone call them Allen keys or wrenches?



Normal people do.   But I have ran into people that have told me "what's that" when I mentioned an Allen wrench.


----------



## mmcmdl

darkzero said:


> Still sad that Apex killed the Armstrong & Allen brands.



So no more Armstrong wrenches are out there Will ? I have more than my share and they were darn good wrenches .


----------



## GreatOldOne

Sooo. It was the local engineering show today, and my friend and I stopped by for a looksee. Oh dear. Look what followed me home.




a new DRO system for the lathe, and a second hand 1 ton press.




The DRO readout is a solid bit of kit - diecast enclosure. 




The contents of my rucksack. A bundle of stock, HSS steel blanks, carbide tips, carbide burrs, a whole bunch of 4” files (1st thru 3rd in round, flat & triangular) plus handles, two indexable milling cutters and a 1000 lumen gooseneck rechargeable led task light that has interchangeable magnetic or shelf / bench clamps.


----------



## pontiac428

My heavy stuff is getting heavier, and I have one last move. In order to keep the friends that I ask for help at these times, I ponied up for a set of these and one of those. I feel like I could move a space shuttle with this stuff.


----------



## stioc

pontiac428 said:


> My heavy stuff is getting heavier, and I have one last move. In order to keep the friends that I ask for help at these times, I ponied up for a set of these and one of those. I feel like I could move a space shuttle with this stuff.



Sweet! what brand is the toe jack and the skates?


----------



## pontiac428

stioc said:


> Sweet! what brand is the toe jack and the skates?


Shenzhen Industrial people's machine skate factory! I liked these for the poly over iron wheels to conserve my floor. Lower profiles are out there, but 6 tons each for $50 a copy made sense. The jack is also an eBay common, pick any color...


----------



## Janderso

Mr. Pontiac,
I have machine skates and that exact toe jack.
Yes, you can move the world with that equipment.


----------



## darkzero

mmcmdl said:


> So no more Armstrong wrenches are out there Will ? I have more than my share and they were darn good wrenches .



Can still find them new, some vendors still have plenty of stock. But they are no longer made. Apex killed Armstrong in favor of Gearwrench. I only have like 4 Armstrong wrenches and they are good quality.


----------



## RJSakowski

I picked up my order of 60 lbs. of aluminum plate from Howard Precision Metals (https://www.howardprecision.com/random-rack) today.  Nice looking stuff and a bargain at $1/lb.


----------



## savarin

huge suckage thrown your way!


----------



## stioc

My 1" vise arrived...even in the pic I took with a quarter it's hard to get a true size of it but it's not much bigger than a pack of Wrigley's gum. I have no idea how useful it'll be and may be a 2" one would've been a better buy but it's so cute I almost want to keep it on my desk rather than put it to use lol


----------



## darkzero

stioc said:


> My 1" vise arrived...even in the pic I took with a quarter it's hard to get a true size of it but it's not much bigger than a pack of Wrigley's gum. I have no idea how useful it'll be and may be a 2" one would've been a better buy but it's so cute I almost want to keep it on my desk rather than put it to use lol
> 
> View attachment 304254



I know what you mean. Even though I knew what I was buying I didn't realize the size until I received mine. I don't use it that often but it does come in handy. I use it when I need to clamp something small & change orientation.

(This is not what I meant above, I was just too lazy to set this part up a different way for just 2 quick cuts)


----------



## Grinder74

Picked this up at a pawn shop. Starrett 0-9" 445. I also have an anvil mic in the mail. Should have bought the anvil mic many years ago, would have saved a lot of time at my old job.


----------



## stioc

darkzero said:


> I know what you mean. Even though I knew what I was buying I didn't realize the size until I received mine. I don't use it that often but it does come in handy. I use it when I need to clamp something small & change orientation.
> 
> (This is not what I meant above, I was just too lazy to set this part up a different way for just 2 quick cuts)



Cool! I ended up using it today for a small piece already


----------



## darkzero

stioc said:


> Cool! I ended up using it today for a small piece already
> 
> View attachment 304306



Oh nice! Haha, I do the same with my bandsaw except with a bigger vise.  I haven't got around to modding the jaws on my current bandsaw yet.


----------



## rwm

RJSakowski said:


> I picked up my order of 60 lbs. of aluminum plate from Howard Precision Metals (https://www.howardprecision.com/random-rack) today.  Nice looking stuff and a bargain at $1/lb.



I just got my quote from Howard Precision on the Buck a Pound sale. I had them quote 70 pounds of aluminum.  They are charging me $3.07 a pound. Is this a scam or did I misunderstand something?
Robert


----------



## RJSakowski

rwm said:


> I just got my quote from Howard Precision on the Buck a Pound sale. I had them quote 70 pounds of aluminum.  They are charging me $3.07 a pound. Is this a scam or did I misunderstand something?
> Robert



I just checked their website and the offer is still on.  The offer is only for plate aluminum.  In my first RFQ, I had some extruded stock which was $2.20/lb.  The quote that you receive includes shipping  If I had it shipped, it would have been $1.56/lb.  I picked my order up and it was $1.00/lb.  Keep in mind that there is a 70 lb limit on shipping flat rate.  If you are at 70 lbs, the order will be shipped by a more costly method.  They also had done some substitutions, based on what was actually at hand when the order was executed.  They contacted me to make sure that it was OK with me but that could push an order over the 70 lb. threshold.


----------



## rwm

I misspoke earlier. The weight was 42 pounds and the quoted price was $128. I'm not sure how that makes sense. The material all shows $3.07/ lb. The quote does not have a line item for shipping. I have replied with a question. I will let you know how it works out. If shipping is twice the cost of the material I am out.
Robert

Duh...I put some extrusions on my list without realizing. That's why the price was higher. Looks like the sale is mostly on MIC 6. Not sure what its like to work with that. Gummy I am told...
Robert


----------



## Bi11Hudson

RJSakowski said:


> Bill, I have been toying with making my oxygen and possibly hydrogen for my torches.  I have O/A tanks but they always seem to be empty when I need them.  The supplier is in the middle of the city and it is a pain getting down there, not mention hauling tanks around in the back of a minivan.
> 
> I will really be interested in how well your new oxygen generator works.



I had responded regarding using the seperate O2, not really practical. I had wanted to try it on copper pipe before replying regarding how hot the torch got. Never got a round tuit. 

The torch is quite usable for my application, brazing small parts and both silver soldering and soft soldering in tight places. The highest flame is about 5/8 inch long and about the size of an insert for a draftsman's pencil. Very small but plenty hot. 

I'm not really happy with the vinyl hose but it's the same size as the breather hose on my face. I have plenty of those cause I'm supposed to change them out once a week. Good stock of used hoses on hand.

.


----------



## silverhawk

I wanted to create a gear for a south bend (10L) collet closer hand lever attachment.  It's a 40-tooth gear.  I could use the small rotary table with that one, but I used it as an excuse to buy an old dividing head.  There's a makers mark listed as "Republic Tools" on the top, and a common number stamped into it is 1161 (stamped into the spindle with a longer number as well as stamped into the base casting).



















Suddenly, I want to make a 127 hole plate.  Either I bootstrap one by making one index plate by hand (holes would be too close for a single row of holes) and using that plate to make others, or I have someone CNC me a 4.785" disc made specifically for 127 holes (spread over three rows).

It feels like a 48:1 ratio (which is very odd), but I still need to check that and prove it out.


----------



## silverhawk

> It feels like a 48:1 ratio (which is very odd), but I still need to check that and prove it out.



Results came in - it's a standard 40:1 ratio.  The holes in the plates are 0.105", and the plates are 0.250" thick (with variations, so there are shop-made plates mixed in with this).  I'm happy.


----------



## BGHansen

Couple of new to me "essentials".  Don't know where I'll ever use it, picked up a 20" gauge block for $10.  I guess I could use it to check the accuracy of my Bridgeport's DRO or make a really wide mill tramming fixture.

20" gauge block




Other addition was a collet chuck tension/compression tapping head for my Tormach 1100.  List is $450 from Tormach, got this for a Buy It Now price of $150 off eBay.  I have a couple of ER20 tension/compression heads already, but I think this one will be my go to.  I'm still a newbie on the CNC stuff, but think I have a handle on the advantages/use, PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong.  


Tormach tension/compression collet chuck with collets for taps #0 - 1/2"




1/4" - 20 tap loaded in a collet




The Tormach 1100 Series 3 does not have rigid tapping.  I think that's running the tap from the spindle where speed and feed are accurately controlled.  I suspect that the Z-feed is varied to match the spindle position so the machine feeds the tap at exactly the rate that the spindle is turning.  A 1/4"-20 tap would feed 1/20th of an inch for each revolution and no doubt increments the feeds at very small intervals.

 My Tormach uses a VFD to drive the spindle motor, but there's no built in tach or spindle position sensor to ensure the spindle is moving or is at the speed indicated.  The tension/compression head has a spring take-up as it drives the tap to take up variation in the spindle speed.  Z-axis feed rate is "RPM / tpi" or for a 1/4" - 20 at 500 RPM, 500/20 or feed of 25 ipm.  Problem is, the spindle speed could be 410 or 390 or even off more, so a rigid attachment from the spindle to the tap would put the tap in compression or tension and maybe snap the tap.

I'm thinking it'd be best to error on the side of a little too high of Z-axis feed rate as the tapping head has about 3/4" of travel in compression.  That way the tap would feed a bit quicker than the spindle expects and ends up compressing the spring in the head as it taps.  Or, perhaps I could advance the Z-axis so the tap is jammed into the tap hole to pre-compress the spring, then turn the spindle on which gives spindle speed wiggle room if it's off either high or low.  Probably start with the former method as letting the CNC Z-axis jam a tap with a stationary spindle into a hole just goes against my grain.

Anyway, the nice thing about this head is the collets pop off very quickly.  I'll load the collets with standard taps and use the electronic tool setter to determine each tool length.  Each tap will have a unique tool number so when running a routine, the same head can tap multiple sized holes (tapping head range is #0 - 1/2" taps) by just swapping the collet on the end.  With the ER-collet style heads, I load a tap and take a tool length that has to be redone every time I change taps.  I have two of those heads, so can quickly swap between two sizes, but this head gives me more options.  I guess a work-around there would be to mark the tap shank at the collet and try to insert it to the same position every time; yeah, the new head will be my go to.

Thanks for looking, Bruce


----------



## darkzero

My new favorite toy. Well it certaintly isn't a toy. I love this thing already & just got it today. Don't think it will replace my air die grinders though but it certainly will get used more than them. My air die grinders are the only air tools I still use that have not been replaced by cordless yet.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited my local tool/ flea market. I was looking for snap ring pliers and ended up with everything except that. First thing i found was a set of yugo mud flaps, bought them for 2$ to have them as spare when i rip off the mercedes ones on the little niva. Then i come by a set of brake lines the seller said 1$ for both so i bought the as spares also, then i came across this small gas can, only 5 liters but is made to form the the trunk of a car so i bought it 3$. Last thing i bought was the buy of the day, the green extraction fan, is all made from aluminium and cast iron, and for 10$ it was too cheap to pass on it has 1Hp motor 3 phase on it. Not bad for sunday.


----------



## stupoty

silverhawk said:


> I wanted to create a gear for a south bend (10L) collet closer hand lever attachment.  It's a 40-tooth gear.  I could use the small rotary table with that one, but I used it as an excuse to buy an old dividing head.  There's a makers mark listed as "Republic Tools" on the top, and a common number stamped into it is 1161 (stamped into the spindle with a longer number as well as stamped into the base casting).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Suddenly, I want to make a 127 hole plate.  Either I bootstrap one by making one index plate by hand (holes would be too close for a single row of holes) and using that plate to make others, or I have someone CNC me a 4.785" disc made specifically for 127 holes (spread over three rows).
> 
> It feels like a 48:1 ratio (which is very odd), but I still need to check that and prove it out.




I spent ages one day trying to work out factors for dividing 127 steps , then after my brain started working I realised it's a prime number  ha ha ha 

Stu


----------



## GreatOldOne

30mm travel mitutoyo dial indicator.



4mm duMont broach.


----------



## silverhawk

stupoty said:


> I spent ages one day trying to work out factors for dividing 127 steps , then after my brain started working I realised it's a prime number  ha ha ha
> 
> Stu


Yes. I have found that I cam bootstrap a dividing plate. Drill 127 holes around a circle. Even if you are 0.040" off, it's okay. You use that plate and count 40 holes for each hole (same add the ratio of your dividing head) to drill the next plate, which'll be to within 0.001" accurate. Anything you do with the second gear is theoretically within 0.000025". If you made a third plate, your accuracy should be within 0.000000625" . My theory is that any prime number plates can be made that way (drilling that # of holes on a circle and counting holes using the ratio), though if you have cnc it becomes much easier.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


----------



## GreatOldOne

darkzero said:


> My new favorite toy. Well it certaintly isn't a toy. I love this thing already & just got it today. Donxt think it will replaced my air die grinders though but it certainly will get used more than them. My air die grinders are the only air tools I still use that have not been replaced by cordless yet.


Ooooooh. Please give us a mini review once you’ve used it a bit longer. My compressor isn’t very large, only really useful for blowing chips around... so a small cordless grinder that isn’t anaemic would be great. Especially as I’ve got other M12 tools.


----------



## darkzero

GreatOldOne said:


> Ooooooh. Please give us a mini review once you’ve used it a bit longer. My compressor isn’t very large, only really useful for blowing chips around... so a small cordless grinder that isn’t anaemic would be great. Especially as I’ve got other M12 tools.



They're are plenty of reviews on YT now. Just saying cause I'm not much of a reviewer & it may be a while. 

Small it isn't, cause it's a M12 that uses batteries in the handle, that makes the handle fatter. One of 2 things I don't like about it. Air die grinders are much more compact. I still like using my air die grinders but this one is much more convenient & quick to use. I really only use die grinders for cleaning up gasket surfaces (automotive) & with carbide burrs but also for deburring. I'll probably only use this for gasket removal & deburring since those are usually quick & short tasks which is most of the time.

The other thing I don't like about, more like not used to it, is that the speed is not instant when pulling the trigger, it ramps up. I can understand why they designed it to do that but it just feels weird to me.


----------



## GreatOldOne

A “vintage” long travel (50mm I believe) Mitutoyo digimatic dial indicator.




digging the Star Trek / 2001 styling...


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited the local flea market. i did lots of walking and only bought few things, i got me couple of small paint brushes, a 36mm 3/4 impact socket for the half shafts on my car, a very big U joint, and a small hand press. All in around 10$.


----------



## roadie33

Need to do some spraying on of Poly (water based) this Winter so I picked up one of these at the local Big Box store.
Now to learn how it sprays and the cleanup process. I usually use the $10 HF HVLP spay guns but even those have a tendency to have a lot of overspray.

GRACO TRUECOAT 360DSP


----------



## foleda

Bought a couple of items at an auction:



Now I need to find some chasers for the die head.  The new ones I have found go
for more than I paid for the die head.  E-bay has some but all I saw were odd ball
sizes (1/4-24 anyone?).


----------



## mmcmdl

24 or 28 ? Is that a 3/4" head or 1/2" ?


----------



## foleda

mmcmdl said:


> 24 or 28 ? Is that a 3/4" head or 1/2" ?



I believe the head takes D 9/16 Geometric chasers.  I don't know how chasers are sized. The slots measure 0.312" wide but that conflicts with the D 9/16 engraved on the side of the head.
	

		
			
		

		
	



  I mentioned the 1/4-24 chasers as an example of the unusual sizes I saw on E-bay.  The sizes I am most interested in would be 1/2-13, 1/4-20, #10-32, and possibly some standard metric threads.


----------



## mmcmdl

I have Geometric heads and chasers but not sure what I have left .


----------



## foleda

mmcmdl said:


> I have Geometric heads and chasers but not sure what I have left .


I'd be interested if you are willing to sell any common sizes.


----------



## GreatOldOne

Tesa 25mm internal Mic setting ring


Set of made in Britain starett pin punches, in their wooden case.


----------



## DLF

A machinist's level. 20cm long, 0.35mm/m made by LTF. Part no. 419.02.

LTF I believe to be an italian company.

The level has seen better times but at 30€ I'm not complaining.

The base is a bit scratched, but I tried to stone it and was surprised that I could not find any burrs or nicks.

It will make a nice pair with my Heinrich Erb 30cm, 0.02mm/m.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			








Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk


----------



## GreatOldOne

I really didn’t need them, but when they’re going begging on the bay... it’s rude not to.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

What was that saying about  having and not needing versus needing and not having?

.


----------



## francist

I pooched my last 3/8” end mill on Sunday night so quickly ordered 5 more from KBC. They shipped out of Delta so were here on my doorstep when I got home from work today.  

As I came up the steps I was thinking ‘“gee, that’s a pretty big envelope for five end mills...” and then when I picked it up and it weighed about five pounds I started to wonder what SIZE end mills I actually ordered...?  

Turns out my order was fine and unbeknownst to me they had included a free copy of their latest Book of Temptations as well as a handy drill size / decimal conversion chart. Thanks KBC!  

-frank


----------



## darkzero

Finally got me a VIS level to replace my China one. I had passed on a number of them over the yrs, glad I did cause this one was pretty much brand new, not one scratch on it, won it for only $85 with shipping all the way from Canada.


----------



## darkzero

Got a Rennsteig center punch. I recommended one to Ken as a possible good buy although I never owned one myself, you know, to help others spend their money. That backfired on me & I ended up buying one for myself.  





Wanted a coin slot screwdriver but didn't want to pay the money for a PB Swiss one. Got one made by Anex Japan. They also had what they call a faucet driver, 18mm wide slot so I picked up that one too. These are 1/4" drives so I can use them will a drill but I picked up mini handles by Anex for them to use by hand.





I love Olfa products & have been using snap blade utility knives a lot more recently. Picked up another one of their comfort grip models (Japan market only for the grey) & another one of their new aluminum handle model.


----------



## darkzero

Got me a can of Xylene. What's so special about that you say? Well here in CA they banned pretty much all the strong solvents yrs ago, can't buy paint thinner, mineral spirits, naphtha, MEK, toulene, etc anymore. Just acetone & laquer thinner. Everything else is a substitue which don't work nearly as well & evaporates fast. Not to mention that everything causes cancer in CA (yeah yeah, I know, lets not get into all the reasons why CA sucks). 

I just found out that they have added 99% isopropyl & denatured alcohol to that list too! I tried to purchase another 5 gallon jug from Zoro last week but they will no longer ship it to me. Even went to my local MSC cause I remember them having it in store & had my sales guy check their system, same thing, shipping restriction, they can no longer sell it in CA. But that's ok, more on that later.


----------



## pontiac428

Dang you @francist , I wanted a KBC Tools wall chart too, so I just bought a surface plate so I can get one.


----------



## francist

Hah! Surface plate is on my list for next month I think -- 12 x 18 -- this month I think the rotary table will win out! My little plate is just too, well, little.

-f


----------



## Nogoingback

A retired machinist was selling some stuff on CL today so I went and had a look.  All of these were on my list of things
needed and the prices were great.


----------



## 34_40

Been searching forever it feels like... but I finally found one in my price range and 115 volts. And it runs great!  Has the lower pans and the diamond truing toolholder.  Just missing the coolant cup(s) .


----------



## alloy

Bought a bigger compressor today.  24.5 CFM single phase, 7.5 HP.  Got it for $1000.

My "little" 18.2 CFM can't keep up with my bead blaster and I need air for my tool changer and if I blow it up I'd be screwed.  

Hopefully this one will be enough by itself, if not I'll plumb the two together and have plenty of air. I have enough power thankfully to run the two.


----------



## mmcmdl

I didn't buy anything other than 3 air gages for the cars . I have 30 of these but can never locate them when needed . I spent my day packing tools and getting chucks and arbors swapped for shipping . I have things ready to ship in the am , and I have to tell Mike in Hawiai , this plate filled a large flat rate game box to the seams . I'm heading in for the night , been a lonnng day .


----------



## Janderso

34_40 said:


> Been searching forever it feels like... but I finally found one in my price range and 115 volts. And it runs great!  Has the lower pans and the diamond truing toolholder.  Just missing the coolant cup(s) .


34-40,
That is the grinder everyone wants. I have one, but I don’t have that sweet little diamond rig.
The cups are not a big deal. Use a Noga mister


----------



## 34_40

Janderso said:


> 34-40,  That is the grinder everyone wants. I have one, but I don’t have that sweet little diamond rig.
> The cups are not a big deal. Use a Noga mister



Yes, and I have been one of those guys wanting for a long long time.   I'm undecided if I want to tear into it and clean/paint renew.
It runs that good.  I may just clean up the cosmetics and keep it as is.  If you'd like pics or measures of the truing rig, Let me know.


----------



## Joeman77

darkzero said:


> Got a Rennsteig center punch. I recommended one to Ken as a possible good buy although I never owned one myself, you know, to help others spend their money. That backfired on me & I ended up buying one for myself.



I saw that & checked them out, looks cool. Now I have to ask, Is it worth it? Leaves a good mark & all?


----------



## external power

Joeman77 said:


> I saw that & checked them out, looks cool. Now I have to ask, Is it worth it? Leaves a good mark & all?


Of course it's German.


----------



## darkzero

Joeman77 said:


> I saw that & checked them out, looks cool. Now I have to ask, Is it worth it? Leaves a good mark & all?



Yep it was worth it & I'm happy with it considering I prefer a traditional prick or center punch & a hammer over automatics. It's the strongest auto center punch I have now.


----------



## francist

Bit of a mixed bag on my porch today: 




a couple of 1MT dead centres, a P2 parting blade, two broad flat indicator tips, a few run-of-the-mill 3/8” end mills, and what I was really looking forward to, the rotary table.

Well the table isn’t a Vertex, that’s for sure. I’m pretty sure I’ll be giving it a tear down straightaway and see if a bit of tuning can improve the feel. It works as is of course, just doesn’t really feel smooth and there’s a fair bit of lash on the dial. It came with two pairs of clamps and the most crudely turned handle I’ve seen in a long time, it’s almost comical. Oh well, maybe I’ll do a follow up post down the road if it looks interesting. 

-frank


----------



## darkzero

darkzero said:


> I just found out that they have added 99% isopropyl & denatured alcohol to that list too! I tried to purchase another 5 gallon jug from Zoro last week but they will no longer ship it to me. Even went to my local MSC cause I remember them having it in store & had my sales guy check their system, same thing, shipping restriction, they can no longer sell it in CA. But that's ok, more on that later.



So I found a "guy".   I must be an alcoholic now cause somehow I ended up with 25 gallons of denatured alcohol & a gallon of 99% isopropyl.  

The 190 proof is what I bought from that guy, it was cheap. The bucket is 200 proof. I think I'll be good for a while.


----------



## mmcmdl

Not a big fan of ethenol over here on the east coast . It chews up any small engine you put it in . I drive from Md up to Pa to buy the un-ethenaled 93 octain out of the pump for 30 cents more than regular here in Md . That 190 proof caught my eye though , sounds good around a bonfire !


----------



## darkzero

That's the thing that passes me off. They've been putting it in our gasoline here for yrs yet they ban the sale of it. Acetone has a higher VOC than these two alcohols yet we can still buy acetone. I better shut my mouth otherwise I may have to stock up on acetone too.


----------



## darkzero

Never knew these things existed. Would have came in very handy for me 20 yrs ago. Works pretty well at sizing o-rings but I wish it was made better.


----------



## rwm

Intersting... They also make conical ones:




I don't see why one couldn't machine this out of aluminum and make your own. I guess labeling all the sizes would be too painful.
Robert


----------



## darkzero

I saw those too. Didn't like them cause they're bulky. They had 3 sizes, largest one goes up to 5-5/8" & costs almost $60. I suppose those would be more useful if you used it daily & kept it on the bench.

The one I chose goes up to 13" & only costs $25. Much more compact & easy to store.


----------



## GreatOldOne

More Starett goodies. 93C tap handle.




466 angle gauge.


----------



## WCraig

Re the angle gauge above, why would it have a 14.5 degree option?  Why would that be a common choice?  (The other values all divide into 360 evenly.)

Craig


----------



## silverhawk

WCraig said:


> Re the angle gauge above, why would it have a 14.5 degree option? Why would that be a common choice? (The other values all divide into 360 evenly.)
> 
> Craig


My brain immediately went to a 14.5 degree pressure angle on old machinery gears.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


----------



## francist

1/2 of Acme 29 degrees


----------



## BGHansen

Few recent additions to my shop.  First is a Lufkin groove micrometer bought at an antique shop for $20.

Saw a great deal on eBay for a Millfast Products 4-button control.  I plan on making a full enclosure for my Tormach 1100 next year which will make the machine controls really inconvenient to reach.  Tormach sells a kit to move the controls to an external box, but it eliminates the manual control switches for the spindle and coolant.  The Millfast control box will give me a second E-stop wherever I mount the box, plus some of the keyboard quick-keys to well.  Currently the keyboard gives me a second E-stop if I can find the ESC key on the keyboard.  Gonna feel a lot more comfortable with a big red button.  Paid $100 for the controller.

Also found a good deal on some brand new Nicholson 4" die files.  Couldn't pass up the price at $30 shipped.  I've seen these go for over $10 each on eBay.  Not as good a deal as Susan of SF recently snagged, but I'm happy with $3 each.

Picked up some 5/8" brass rounds for an Erector set I reproduce.  There's about 5' in total length, cost $35 shipped.

Lastly, a good selection of roll-form taps.  I have dozens if not hundreds of spiral point and spiral flute taps, but have never used a roll form tap.  I understand they are more robust than conventional taps, especially for power tapping.  They don't cut threads, my understanding is they more emboss or press the thread into the material.  They require different tap drills than conventional taps, so new charts will be headed to the shop.

Bruce


----------



## rwm

Oxygen concentrator! No more disposable tanks. No more trips to Airgas.




Robert


----------



## Superburban

I have been wondering if a concentrator would provide enough oxygen to fuel a torch.  Is that Map gas, or propane?


----------



## rwm

That's propane with a Smith Little Torch. I think MAPP would work fine also. Lots of videos on YT of people doing this. This will be perfect for brazing and silver soldering.
The pic does not do it justice but there is a nice 1/2" blue cone inside that flame and a nice hiss.
Robert


----------



## darkzero

Finally got me a M18 12.0 High Output battery. 9.0 was the biggest I had cause I never wanted to pay the price for a 12.0.

Home Depot has a BF sale for them that is already live. Buy a M18 12.0 battery for $199, get a M18 8.0 HO battery for free. That's a pretty good deal by itself considering the 12.0 battery was $249 when they first came out & was $149 for BF last year.

However you can then return one of the batteries. You can get $108 back for the 12.0 or $91 for the 8.0. I walked right back in after purchasing & returned the 8.0 battery. So I ended up paying $108 + tax for the 12.0. I'm happy!

You can do this with other free item combos that they have on sale right now as long as the free item you are returning has it's own sku number & retail packaging. The return value will print on the receipt when you purchase.


----------



## darkzero

Got another HD trickery return deal today. M18 gen2 vacuum is on sale for $89. Bought the double M18 4.0 battery starter pack for $199 & got the vacuum for free. Walked right back in & returned the starter pack for $137. Ended up paying $61 for the vacuum.


----------



## GrayTech

Antique market finds. A pair of scrapers $8.35 CAD, larger one has a carbide blade. 24" folding rule $5. Handful of hss US made drill bits + 1 cobalt bit $10. Passed on a metric set of Bondhus hex keys for $20. Saw a few other useful things so I'll go take a look again next week.


----------



## GreatOldOne

Starrett 251 Trammel.


----------



## Superburban

Not a new purchase, but from about 15 years back, when I was just beginning to be a newbee. I had e Roung Foo mill/drill, and just got the Shopfox gunsmith lathe. Thinking I could have fun maxing my own BXA tool holders and needing something to cut the dovetails. I found this one on Ebay, obviously I did not pay enough attention to the dimensions. Imagine my surprise when I opened the box. 

I ran across the old pic today, and thought I would share a good newbee story.


----------



## hman

Looks like you coulda cut both sides of the dovetail in a single pass.  What's not to like about that?


----------



## Superburban

hman said:


> Looks like you coulda cut both sides of the dovetail in a single pass.  What's not to like about that?


If I needed some DXA holders maybe. I did look to see if I could get an R8 holders for a 2" cutter, but failed. Now I have some for my Van Norman 22, but still do not need the DXA holders.        Yet


----------



## darkzero

I'm typically not a shop on BF shopper but there was a tool box combo that I was waiting to buy. Went to HD today to check & luckily the deal went live. So happy cause I wasn't looking forward to going on Friday to get it.




Needed some more impact driver bits. I never buy sets, I usually just buy the bits I need in bulk but these sets were really cheap. The small one was $15. Just the 2 bit extensions alone normally sell for $15 total. Pre BF price for the big set was $30. Again BF price went live which is $25. That's a heck of a deal for 4 sets in this one. Only wanted the small one but couldn't resist buying the big set too at that price. EDIT: Just check the BF flyer & it's listed for $30, same on the display, but had a lady check the price for me in store & it was $25.




Got me 4 tool totes on ebay. They were only $4 each but were 10% if buying more. Shipping was more than double the price of the tote so I bought 4 to make it worthwhile even though I only wanted one. Not bad for less than $10 ea shipped buying 4.


----------



## pontiac428

Not a purchase, but an acquisition. A re-homing orchestrated by my wife. It's an 8 foot working aluminum slide rule to decorate my shop with. Not bad!


----------



## Latinrascalrg1

pontiac428 said:


> Not a purchase, but an acquisition. A re-homing orchestrated by my wife. It's an 8 foot working aluminum slide rule to decorate my shop with. Not bad!


Thats just AWESOME!  I wonder if its measurements have be Ratio'd up to something "meaningful" that _Could _  be used to measure something (not sure thats the correct terminology to use or not but i think you can understand what im trying to ferret out!)


----------



## Cooter Brown

Hybco Tap Grinder Cutter Grinder


----------



## darkzero

darkzero said:


> I'm typically not a shop on BF shopper but there was a tool box combo that I was waiting to buy. Went to HD today to check & luckily the deal went live. So happy cause I wasn't looking forward to going on Friday to get it.
> View attachment 306708



Edit 11/30: The double discount glitch has been fixed. Was only a matter of time until they realized it. Was still good this morning but just got word for someone that the deal is dead. Well the BF pricing is still live which is still a good deal.

Bought another set of the Ridgid boxes. Originally I had bought the the bottom & middle box last week cause I didn't want to wait till BF (today) to get em. Normal price for just the 2 is $98. I didn't have a need for the small box.

Wed the BF deal went live as I posted, BF deal is buy the 2 larger boxes for $98, get the small one for free. Again didn't need the small box but it was free. Kept the small box & returned the 2 bigger ones with my first receipt. Done deal, so I thought.

Last night was on HD's website, still had the 3 boxes in my cart from when I was shopping. There was some sort of glitch or something. Although the cart prices showed the discount & totaled $98, in the cart total the discount applied twice so price was $71. So I bought em again & gonna return again with my second receipt.


----------



## hman

pontiac428 said:


> Not a purchase, but an acquisition. A re-homing orchestrated by my wife. It's an 8 foot working aluminum slide rule to decorate my shop with. Not bad!


A fellow I worked with at Hewlett-Packard had a 6 footer in his office.  He used to ask fresh-from-college engineer interviewees what it was.  Several had no clue


----------



## hman

darkzero said:


> Finally got me a M18 12.0 High Output battery. 9.0 was the biggest I had cause I never wanted to pay the price for a 12.0.
> Home Depot has a BF sale for them that is already live. Buy a M18 12.0 battery for $199, get a M18 8.0 HO battery for free. That's a pretty good deal by itself considering the 12.0 battery was $249 when they first came out & was $149 for BF last year.
> 
> <and in another post>
> 
> Bought the double M18 4.0 battery starter pack for $199 & got the vacuum for free.


Darkzero - I have the feeling these deals were only offered in California (maybe just in LA?)  I went to HD in Phoenix, AZ today, and no such deals available.  Also nothing like them on the HD website.

Durn!


----------



## darkzero

hman said:


> Darkzero - I have the feeling these deals were only offered in California (maybe just in LA?)  I went to HD in Phoenix, AZ today, and no such deals available.  Also nothing like them on the HD website.
> 
> Durn!



The deals are in all stores, nationwide. Depends on the store, they won't actually be in the tool section but near the tool section at the front of the store. Some stores are smaller so the deals are put in the middle of isles. One store by me had some of the deals towards the back cause they don't have enough space in the front for everything.

They've had most of deals for the past couple of weeks. They can be purchased online too but online they don't specify which items you can get free when purchasing certain items but if you add the applicable items to cart the deals will apply. Have to look at the displays they have in store. Or look here.

But the return deals I mentioned they don't advertise & most people don't know you can return the free item or vise versa. The workers won't even tell you or know the breakdowns. The return value break down prints on the receipt & you won't know what the return value is until you see it on the receipt. However this is how you can figure it out.

For example, I wanted the M18 vacuum which is sold for $89 by itself. I purchased the M18 4.0 battery starter kit for $199 & the vacuum was one of the items you can get free.

So the starter kit is $199 & the vacuum is $89, total $288.
I wanted the vacuum so $89/288 is .309 (rounded off).
Multiply .309 & $199 and you get $61.50 so that's what I ended up paying after returning the starter pack.

Edit: BTW the HD deals don't end on Black Friday. Many of them keep going well into December or until they run out of stock.


----------



## DavidR8

Not too much, picked up a 5” drill press vice, a 4” and 8” digital caliper, metric tap and die set and a bearing separator so I can pull the main bearings off a motorcycle crankshaft. 
Total outlay of $108. 


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## GoceKU

Today i stopped by the flea/ tool market. It was around 0 degrees out but still it was packed with people, i bought a cheap sink's faucet and a water valve for an upcoming project. Walking around i found couple of bearing housing castings new never bored and last thing i found and bought was this pneumatic wire cutters, its funny to me that someone needs air assistance to cut wires but at that price i'm sure it will come handy.


----------



## Firstgear

More than likely those wire cutters were for a manufacturing process.  If you had to cut wires all day long, you would be very happy for the pneumatic assist!


----------



## Bi11Hudson

There was a time I would have given my eye teeth for that contraption. Bolt cutters worked, sort of once I found something to push against doing work off the ground. 1/4 messenger cable has steel strands for strength. Working up a pole with wire cutters is a PITA.

.


----------



## mickri

My latest auction score.  A logan #1284 8" 4 jaw chuck for $40.   It has 2 3/8x8 tpi threads.  All I have to do is make an adapter to fit the 1 1/2x8 tpi spindle on my lathe.  I use my 4 jaw chucks a lot and my current 8" 4 jaw is in fair condition with lots of missing threads on the jaws.


----------



## GoceKU

Firstgear said:


> More than likely those wire cutters were for a manufacturing process. If you had to cut wires all day long, you would be very happy for the pneumatic assist!



I bit late to respond but here we go. I've worked for Van Hool, the belgian bus company and i use to use up 7-800 zip ties over a three day period, close to 300 terminal ends and a lot of wire, wiring them buses. Only pneumatic assisted tool i wanted and used was a pop rivet gun, i cut off the tails on every zip tie with side cutters, i stripped every cable with the same side cutters. i've never seen use for assistance with them even after a 18 hour shift. PS side cutters only lasted 2-3 months in my hands, i did brake lot of hand tools there because they wore low quality.


----------



## Latinrascalrg1

GoceKU said:


> I bit late to respond but here we go. I've worked for Van Hool, the belgian bus company and i use to use up 7-800 zip ties over a three day period, close to 300 terminal ends and a lot of wire, wiring them buses. Only pneumatic assisted tool i wanted and used was a pop rivet gun, i cut off the tails on every zip tie with side cutters, i stripped every cable with the same side cutters. i've never seen use for assistance with them even after a 18 hour shift. PS side cutters only lasted 2-3 months in my hands, i did brake lot of hand tools there because they wore low quality.


And because of it you most likely  have a very strong grip (short term benefit) and will probably be rewarded with a lifelong reminder of each and every one of those cuts made through the arthritis that was earned for the trouble!  A tool like those wire clippers for me fall into the "work Smarter NOT Harder" category.


----------



## Z2V

I got my stick welder out the other day and with a full welding rod in the holder the tip of the rod was shaking like a dog ****ting chicken bones. My old hands aren’t as steady as they used to be. I did ok with a rod of 3-4” long. So I just ordered a Hobart Handler 190 Mig welder. I pondered a cheap HF machine but decided on the American Made Hobart that will probably last me the rest of my life. Tractor Supply actually has a lower price than Amazon but after factoring the Prime points and the contribution to my charity of choice Amazon was cheaper. Should be here Tuesday


----------



## BGHansen

Z2V said:


> I got my stick welder out the other day and with a full welding rod in the holder the tip of the rod was shaking like a dog ****ting chicken bones. My old hands aren’t as steady as they used to be. I did ok with a rod of 3-4” long. So I just ordered a Hobart Handler 190 Mig welder. I pondered a cheap HF machine but decided on the American Made Hobart that will probably last me the rest of my life. Tractor Supply actually has a lower price than Amazon but after factoring the Prime points and the contribution to my charity of choice Amazon was cheaper. Should be here Tuesday


I bought a Hobart 190 a couple of years ago. Really nice welder, you made a good choice. I was looking at a HF also, but went your same route. In my case, our son will inherit my shop if he wants it. I don't want him to look at his "inheritance" and think "dad bought a lot of junk".

Bruce


----------



## Z2V

Bruce,
I’m glad to hear that the Hobart serves you well. I like the fact that it is transformer based instead of inverter based. Transformers will easily outlast circuit boards. I know Miller and Lincoln have some really nice, powerful inverter based machines but they have the price also. I’m a retired hobbyist who might only weld a few times a year so I think I made a good choice that will last me as long as I need it.


----------



## Ulma Doctor

i didn't buy it today, but i picked (read:STOLE) it up on Friday---
Bench Centers 



it didn't come with the indicator or the standoffs, but that will be discussed in another thread


----------



## Cooter Brown

Cooter Brown said:


> Hybco Tap Grinder Cutter Grinder
> 
> View attachment 306795
> 
> View attachment 306796
> View attachment 306797
> View attachment 306798
> View attachment 306799
> View attachment 306802
> View attachment 306800
> View attachment 306801




So I spoke with the seller of the Hybco Tap Grinder on the phone and I told him I would pay on pick up December 11th, we both agreed on this.... A few days later he messages me asking me to pay right now because he needs to pay for a lathe he just bought, I tell him that we already agreed on the 11th he say ok...... Today 12/9/19 he messages me again asking me what time tomorrow I'm going to pick it up, tomorrow is the 10th not the 11th... Sooo I messaged him back telling him that I'm no longer interested in buying any machines from him, cancel the order and to lose my phone number.....lol

I cant stand sellers that agree to something and then try to rush everything..... I wont be buying this machine..... Kinda sad but I'm going to see about buying this lathe on Wednesday.....


----------



## hman

Too bad you ran into a bozo with the Hybco.

Looking at the first photo of the lathe you're interested in ...seems as if the carriage is broken in half!  Am I just seeing things, or it that how it's supposed to look?  I'm sure you'll be giving it the ol' eagle eye before you plunk down the folding green.  Looks OK otherwise.


----------



## Cooter Brown

hman said:


> Looking at the first photo of the lathe you're interested in ...seems as if the carriage is broken in half!  Am I just seeing things, or it that how it's supposed to look?



It does look kinda funny I will definitely make sure to check that part out.....  Thanks for looking....


----------



## francist

12 x 18 x 3 granite plate. Supposedly a grade A although I have no way of verifying that. The main thing I was after was size, an 8 x 12 gets small really fast with more than one item on it 




-frank


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> 12 x 18 x 3 granite plate. Supposedly a grade A although I have no way of verifying that. The main thing I was after was size, an 8 x 12 gets small really fast with more than one item on it
> 
> View attachment 307559
> 
> 
> -frank



Nice unit!
Where did you get that from?


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## Ulma Doctor

hman said:


> Too bad you ran into a bozo with the Hybco.
> 
> Looking at the first photo of the lathe you're interested in ...seems as if the carriage is broken in half!  Am I just seeing things, or it that how it's supposed to look?  I'm sure you'll be giving it the ol' eagle eye before you plunk down the folding green.  Looks OK otherwise.


It's one of the new "articulating" carriage designs


----------



## francist

DavidR8 said:


> Where did you get that from



KBC Tools. I ordered it on Thursday evening, it shipped out of Delta, and FedEx had it on my porch this afternoon 

-f


----------



## darkzero

Got me some more Japanese market tools. These are pliers used for unclipping automotive harnesses. Some of them can be real stubborn especially when they get old. Wish I had know about these when I worked with all that rewiring I used to do.

Was my first order (one of these) from Amazon.co.jp & I have a feeling there will be plenty more now. Couldn't have been easier, just like ordering from Amazon.com. Took only 2 days to arrive all the way from Japan once shipped & very reasonable shipping cost.


----------



## mickri

Ulma Doctor.  I saw that and couldn't figure out what I would ever use it for.  I got the 8" chuck I posted above from the same auction.


----------



## toploader

Milwaukee bridge crane 5 ton.  24’ span, p&h hoist.  Going to be one heck of a project to install.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

looks like you'll need a bridge crane to install the bridge crane!


----------



## Buffalo21

It’s been a rough month so far, bought a new snowblower, the old one blew the auger drive, midst a 12” of global warming, a new transfer case in the 2016 AWD Equinox and finally a new Miller welder, a Miller Maxstar 200 STR.


----------



## Firstgear

Bought a new pan and break for up to 14 gauge, new foot stomp shear up to 16 gauge and some new LED high output  lights for the shop and garage.


----------



## Ulma Doctor

mickri said:


> Ulma Doctor.  I saw that and couldn't figure out what I would ever use it for.  I got the 8" chuck I posted above from the same auction.


very nice score on the chuck!

i got the bench centers for $37


----------



## middle.road

toploader said:


> Milwaukee bridge crane 5 ton.  24’ span, p&h hoist.  Going to be one heck of a project to install.


That adds a whole new definition to '_Go *BIG *or go home_!"

I picked up a tiny HF 440# 'winch'. Hopefully going to be able to figure out how to mount it over the mill and lathe with 8.5' ceiling...
Now what do I do with the two 1/2t chain hoists that are sitting in the shed?


----------



## Ianagos

I got myself a real turning center. I technically bought it a month ago but it’s all rigged in now. Forcing me to have zero space as I need to sell some machine that were in its spot.


----------



## mmcmdl

You get the Fadal also ? Nice score on the Mazak , love the slant beds .


----------



## Ianagos

mmcmdl said:


> You get the Fadal also ? Nice score on the Mazak , love the slant beds .



Yes I got that one recently aswell. Came as a package with the one in the background a 4020ht with sidemount changer and chip conveyer. The Mazak also came with a 12 foot bar feeder that doesn’t fit in the shop.

I now own 4 fadals and I need to sell 3 of them. Plan is to keep the nice 4020 and the Mazak.


----------



## middle.road

Ianagos said:


> I got myself a real turning center. I technically bought it a month ago but it’s all rigged in now. Forcing me to have zero space as I need to sell some machine that were in its spot.


This must be the _Week_ for '*Go BIG or go home*' shop additions...

At the party last night, laying out on a table as 'yard art', was this puppy.



It followed me home. Hostess gave it to me while I was admiring it and examining it for marks and lamenting it's condition.
So in-between Honey-Dos today I tossed it in the tumbler.
Note: This just about exceeds the limit of the 5lb HF tumbler. Need to figure out how to jerry-rig a 5gal bucket to it.



From the sale last week: (I still don't have the truck unloaded.)


----------



## 7milesup

I just bought a Bridgeport 815 surface grinder.  1977 model year but looks like it is almost new.


----------



## roadie33

7milesup said:


> I just bought a Bridgeport 815 surface grinder.  1977 model year but looks like it is almost new.


Nice to find one in that good of shape.


----------



## DavidR8

Technically this was last night. 
Insize bore gauges. 







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----------



## Bi11Hudson

?Is this sort of stuff of any real value? I only needed one but have several, most on tri-stands.



middle.road said:


> From the sale last week: (I still don't have the truck unloaded.)



.


----------



## middle.road

Bi11Hudson said:


> ?Is this sort of stuff of any real value? I only needed one but have several, most on tri-stands.


It would have ended up in the scrap pile. -couldn't let that happen   
What I'm planning on is bolting a hefty block of wood to the bottom so I will be able to clamp it in my wood workers vise, and then use it for holding round stock when cutting off with the portable hacksaw.
I've one metal vise and it's mounted on the left side of a workbench and I can't use it easily for cutting off stock.
Worked in the previous shop, plenty of area then.
The three wood working vises are all right side mounted.


----------



## darkzero

Had no idea these things existed, then again I haven't looked for any in a while. Adapters for increasing drive size except these are low profile with knurled bodies. Wanted some impact rated ones. I liked them so much I ordered a second set the same day I received the first set. Didn't care for the 1/2" to 3/4" adapter biut they come as a set & were only $8 for the set. Hope they hold up well, made in Taiwan.


----------



## mmcmdl

Nice little pipe vise , I have one identical to it . I use it often in the same manner as you . 


middle.road said:


> It would have ended up in the scrap pile. -couldn't let that happen


----------



## darkzero

Always wanted some 3M bristle discs. At $10+ea a disc I hesitated buying them a number of times & continued using scotchbrite roloc discs instead. Amazon to the rescue, got a box of 10 for $60. Still more than what I wanted to pay but it was much cheaper than eveyone else. Can't believe I waited so long to try these out!





Been wanting a PEX clamp cinch tool for a while. Didn't want to pay $60+ for one at the local big box stores but I needed one for my truck's steering rack boots. Again Amazon to the rescue, bought one of the most popular ones for $20. Made in China but I was really surprised how nice the tool is. Ratcheting type & came with a no-go gauge. Came properly preset too, worked great right out the box.


----------



## DLF

The flea-market gods have smiled upon me.

Bought some toolsets for 50 euro (total):

1. Moore&Wright 150-1400mm inside micrometer set in like new condition. I believe only this set costs a pretty penny.









2. Unknown brand small diameter inside micrometer set. 50-400mm. Wooden case in rough condition and the set is really dirty but otherwise in good working order.






3. Vintage Carl Zeiss Jena 0-25mm indicating micrometer. The dial indicator part sticks a bit and needs cleaning. Otherwise in very good condition






4. A vintage dial indicator set. One of them is badly sticking. If it can be repaired then I will build a head tramming device with them.






5. A nice toolset wooden case. Except for the foam it is in excellent condition. Now I just have to find some more tools to put inside.


----------



## darkzero

Some more Japanese tools & more Amazon International orders, this time from Germany & the UK.

I love OLFA products. Been looking for one of these for a while, they were discontinued. Not only did I find one, I found more than one & brand new. Model 68B in Japan & CS-2 in other countries. Extruded alumnium handle, double blade. Other blade is a saw. These were replaced by the CS-5 model.

Got me some LBD blades, these have twice the amount off break off sections than normal blades. Looks like these aren't sold in the US. I normally use the LBB black ultra sharp blades.

Also a new cutting mat (my first OLFA) & a 6 pack of the saw blades for cheap. These 2 I got in the US though, locally & on ebay.


----------



## rwm

Hey DZ- What do you use the bristle discs for? How abrasive are they? The fingers look flimsy?
Robert


----------



## darkzero

I use them mostly for automotive, on gasket surfaces. They're great for removing leftover gasket material with minimal metal removal. Scotchbrite discs work too but there are applications where you don't want the fibers to get into where they can be harmful. The bristle discs are also good for light deburring & removing oxidation.

Yes the bristles are very flexible. The bristles are impregnated with ceramic, that's the abrasive. The white ones are 120 grit, that's the finest I believe. Scotchbrite discs I mostly use the maroon but also brown. These are more abrasive than the white bristle discs. I haven't tried any of the coarser grit bristle discs though (and don't plan on it) so not sure how those would compare.


----------



## PHPaul

middle.road said:


> That adds a whole new definition to '_Go *BIG *or go home_!"
> 
> I picked up a tiny HF 440# 'winch'. Hopefully going to be able to figure out how to mount it over the mill and lathe with 8.5' ceiling...
> Now what do I do with the two 1/2t chain hoists that are sitting in the shed?
> 
> View attachment 307862


My winch

I mounted mine to barn door track.  The track is suspended via all-thread through 2x4's spread across 4 trusses.  Not ideal, but plenty for anything that winch will pick up in my experience.


----------



## BGHansen

Recent pick ups from tool sales and eBay.


Crimp tool and ferrules for wiring based on a recommendation off this site.  Ferrules slip over multi-strand wire and get crimped.  Keeps from having that one loose strand when cramming wire into a hole.




Picked up some thread mills for my Tormach 1100.  Should be pretty set at this point, have multiples from a #8 sized up to 3/4".






More Tormach tooling; carbide engravers




Picked up some generic ER20 collets for a tension/compression tapping head.




Picked up 4 Tormach TTS ER32 collet tool holders and a variety of ER32 collets off eBay.  I have around 40 ER20 collet tool holders for my Tormach 1100, but had just one ER32 holder.  The ER20 only goes up to 1/2", the ER32's go to 3/4".  




Picked up more ER20 collets for the Tormach; 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" (those seem to be the "go to" sizes).




Picked up an import 2" boring head for the Tormach.  Had a machinable TTS arbor waiting for a project . . .




Some random lengths of ~3 1/2" Delrin.




Measuring tools I'm probably never use . . .   Really good deal on some metric gauge blocks that range from 100 mm (~4") to 350 mm (~14")




Just what everyone needs, a 20" long gauge block.  Actually, I found this one and the 350 mm one from the set above to be pretty useful for tramming in a vise on the mill.  They have a perfect surface for sweeping with a dial test indicator, no bouncing of the needle.  Plus, my Tormach as two 6" vises, the long gauge blocks work great for getting the two vises trammed to each other.




Definitely an impulse buy.  I have never used a micrometer bigger than 3".  My personal preference is the mechanical digital ones (like Fowler's EZ-Read).  Couldn't pass up the $100 deal on this Fowler 6" - 12" set off eBay.


----------



## C-Bag

darkzero said:


> Some more Japanese tools & more Amazon International orders, this time from Germany & the UK.
> 
> I love OLFA products. Been looking for one of these for a while, they were discontinued. Not only did I find one, I found more than one & brand new. Model 68B in Japan & CS-2 in other countries. Extruded alumnium handle, double blade. Other blade is a saw. These were replaced by the CS-5 model.
> 
> Got me some LBD blades, these have twice the amount off break off sections than normal blades. Looks like these aren't sold in the US. I normally use the LBB black ultra sharp blades.
> 
> Also a new cutting mat (my first OLFA) & a 6 pack of the saw blades for cheap. These 2 I got in the US though, locally & on ebay.
> 
> View attachment 308295
> View attachment 308296
> View attachment 308297
> View attachment 308298
> View attachment 308299
> View attachment 308300


I also love Olfa. I'm not sure what you're cutting but have you ever tried Olfa rotary cutters? I have one of the big ones and a big Olfa mat that I'm due to replace. That will be my third. I found rotary cutters when I was doing a lot of padding for fruit packing equipment. Foam padding with nylon cover bonded to it. If your knife blade was at all old it would make a mess of the cuts. Rotary went through it like a hot knife through butter. Lasts a long time and makes super clean cuts, only use my utility knife for destructive stuff now. Most of what I cut now is heavy leather and the rotary is the only way to go.


----------



## darkzero

C-Bag said:


> I also love Olfa. I'm not sure what you're cutting but have you ever tried Olfa rotary cutters? I have one of the big ones and a big Olfa mat that I'm due to replace. That will be my third. I found rotary cutters when I was doing a lot of padding for fruit packing equipment. Foam padding with nylon cover bonded to it. If your knife blade was at all old it would make a mess of the cuts. Rotary went through it like a hot knife through butter. Lasts a long time and makes super clean cuts, only use my utility knife for destructive stuff now. Most of what I cut now is heavy leather and the rotary is the only way to go.



I do have an Olfa rotary cutter that a customer/friend gave me 15+ yrs ago along with replacement blades. Sadly I don't think I've ever used it, been sitting in my tool box ever since. Technically that would be the first Olfa I ever owned but long before I developed a love for the brand. I should dig it out & give it a try. Thanks

I do have an Olfa circle cutter that uses the circular blades. It works quite well.


----------



## C-Bag

I didn't know they make a circle cutter! You would think it would use a reg blade not a rotary blade. How does it work? Do they carry it like Michaels?


----------



## darkzero

They do make another model that uses a regular style blade but it's not the same size as say a #11 style Xacto blade. My guess is cause of the size of the blade is too long for the cutter. I forget why I choose this one over the other. I do remember the other one costs less.

I'm not sure if they sell it at Michael's or Joann's. Never noticed them but then again I never really looked for them. Was at Joann's a few days ago & didn't see them there. I purchased mine on ebay for less than what the other costs new on Amazon.

It works just like a compass. Adjust the length, center is a pin that you press into the material & spin the unit holding the black knob which rotates. The rotary cutter has a blade guard too to protect it when not in use.


----------



## C-Bag

My problem with reg blades is the added drag. And in a circle cutter that already has both hands tied up I just feel like I need a third hand. As long as I don't ding the rotary blade I can strop them back to life on the backside of the belt on my belt sander. The grit side just rolls the blad over. The hard part to get used to is how incredibly sharp a rotary blade is, they are easily as sharp as an Exacto. I'm going to have to keep that circle cutter in mind. I don't do gasket work anymore so I'm not sure if/when I'd need it but just the cool factor puts it on the radar.


----------



## DavidR8

I had to bump up the value of an Amazon book order to get free next day shipping. Merry Christmas to me!







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----------



## Nogoingback

Bought some lathe tools and brass bar stock from a machinist selling stuff out of his garage.  Got a great deal on
the stuff, but the bonus came when I walked into his shop:  he had FOUR old Rivett lathes in there.  Three are operational
and one is in the process of restoration.  He has tooling and accessories for all of them and uses them regularly.  I've seen
pics of them, but never seen one up close.  Awesome looking machines.  Sorry about no pics, but I didn't feel comfortable
taking pics of his shop.  But he was a nice guy and great to talk with.  Made my day.


----------



## darkzero

Got me some new/new to me Mitutoyo calipers. The Absolute Coolant Proof models are my favorite ones. When I found out that they updated them (don't like the new ones) I set out to find me the older ones but newer than what I had been using. Found me 2 of them in excellent condition & 1 brand new. Think I got carried away & got too many but these should last me the rest of my years on this planet.





In the pic below, the one on top is the model I have been using. Had 2 of the same exact model, 1 in the shop & 1 in my work room where I used to work on custom flashlights. I just sold one of them. 2 generations older than the ones I just got, used 2 batteries instead of 1 but they were still not battery eaters. The bottom one is the first one I'll be using out of the 3 I got, other 2 will going into storage.

The bottom one has carbide jaws which I had no idea existed & apparently are really expensive new. Also has SPC data output which doesn't matter to me though. And I paid the least for these out of the 3.   (I'm happy!)


----------



## DLF

DavidR8 said:


> I had to bump up the value of an Amazon book order to get free next day shipping. Merry Christmas to me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I have the same one. I use it much more than the full version. Really useful.


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----------



## francist

2020’s new adventure....


----------



## Ulma Doctor

55Lbs of
12L14, 1215, 11L17, 1018, 1080, 1045, & 4140 steel & 303 Stainless round, hex and square stock
1/2" diameter to 1-1/2" round stock
1/2 to 3/4" hex
1/4 to 1" square pieces
all ranged in length from 1-1/2" to 10"
and i got it in time for Christmas too!!!!


----------



## Superburban

My postman says his truck runs a lot better after he stops at my place, Bet yours felt the same way today.

I have not had the best luck with packages of small heavy items, I'm sure someone in Denver has one heck of a tool collection, just by the stuff missing from my parcels.


----------



## DiscoDan

Greenfield Tap and Die catalog from 1944 and a Boston Gear catalog in rough shape. Both for $5.


----------



## middle.road

darkzero said:


> I do have an Olfa rotary cutter that a customer/friend gave me 15+ yrs ago along with replacement blades. Sadly I don't think I've ever used it, been sitting in my tool box ever since. Technically that would be the first Olfa I ever owned but long before I developed a love for the brand. I should dig it out & give it a try. Thanks
> 
> I do have an Olfa circle cutter that uses the circular blades. It works quite well.
> 
> View attachment 308443


Gonna have to get one of those!
I've got a modified beam compass with a modified x-acto blade in it that I've been using for years.


----------



## middle.road

Stepson brought some goodies.
Couple of speed indicators. The Federal is sweet, it's going to need some TLC, the crystal is loose in the box and the bezel is rusted.
Mitutoyo is going to need a good going over.


----------



## middle.road

Doing a last minute grocery run and swung into the discount store for some LED bulbs.
Impulse buy! Like I need another pair of diagonals...
Claim is that it's made in U.S.A.



	

		
			
		

		
	
...


----------



## darkzero

Christmas present for myself. Got me a tool post mounted drill chuck. I really like love this thing!


----------



## DLF

darkzero said:


> Christmas present for myself. Got me a tool post mounted drill chuck. I really like love this thing!
> 
> View attachment 308667



Nice buy. First time I see such a setup.

Quick question: what is the advantage over the tailstock mounted chuck?


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----------



## darkzero

DLF said:


> what is the advantage over the tailstock mounted chuck?



Tool post mounted drill is much quicker to retract & feed for peck drilling using the carriage. Much slower process using the tailstock when deep drilling. Not lmited by the travel of the tailstock quill. That's what led me to get this. Recently I had to drill something longer than my tailstick quill travel. Had to advance the tailstock to be able to finish drilling. Got the job done but this would have made it easier. Also if you have a DRO & no DRO on the tailstock this makes quick use of that.

I'm not using this solely now. I'll still use the tailstock primarily. Just handy when I need it to make things easier.


----------



## middle.road

middle.road said:


> Stepson brought some goodies.
> Couple of speed indicators. The Federal is sweet, it's going to need some TLC, the crystal is loose in the box and the bezel is rusted.
> Mitutoyo is going to need a good going over.
> View attachment 308641


Well, got the Mitu digital indicator cleaned up and working. Haven't checked calibration yet - sun went down, got chilly in the shop.


----------



## DavidR8

Got a 4-jaw chuck and backing plate for my NEW LATHE!!!
(I’m a mite excited!) 


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----------



## mmcmdl

DavidR8 said:


> Got a 4-jaw chuck and backing plate for my NEW LATHE!!!
> (I’m a mite excited!)



Get a protractor yet ?


----------



## darkzero

Got me the M18 cordless jobsite fan, Christmas present from one of my lil brothers. It's like one of those things I would never buy for myself but will come in handy now that I have one. Runs on AC too but unfortuantely it uses an AC adapter.

Wish the AC adapter was built into the unit so all you have to do is plug in an extension cord like other brands of cordless fans but whatever, I'm not complaining.


----------



## DavidR8

mmcmdl said:


> Get a protractor yet ?


No actually it hasn't arrived...
Do you have a tracking number?


----------



## darkzero

Got me some new socket holders for some of my impact sockets. The sockets lock in & stay secure with a 1/4  turn and each rail can be removed from the tray. I'm really liking these.







Went from this:





To this:


----------



## Aukai

Will, do you use them, or just have them to look at?  I need to look into that brand mine are Snap On.


----------



## mmcmdl

Snap On the brand , or Snap on the socket holders ?  And Will , I see you still have that dirty rag bucket !


----------



## darkzero

Aukai said:


> Will, do you use them, or just have them to look at?  I need to look into that brand mine are Snap On.



Just been looking at them for the past 5 months or so.  

Haven't actually used them yet. I have other impact sockets that I normally use. I won't buy anything Craftsman anymore, not even if it's a good deal. It has to be a really great deal which is how I ended up with these. And the SB&D Craftsman stuff I will never buy.

I've never owned any 3/8" impact sockets, not a set anyway. I would just use my chrome Snap-On sockets, my dealer always gave me the stink eye when I broke one but he always exchanged them. Matco wouldn't exchange them if he saw impact marks which is understandable but is the same reason I don't own any chrome Matco sockets.

The shallow & deep 3/8" impact sets I got for like $7 through points. And not much more for the 1/2" shallow set. Felt like I stole them from Sears. No wonder they are struggling to stay in business. The 1/2" deep set I got on ebay only cause I got the other sets & wanted a "complete" set. Didn't really need them but they were cheap. Yeah they are the China made ones but they should do fine for me. I have only ever broke one impact socket in my lifetime which was Matco but it was a thin wall from a lugnut socket set sold for use with aftermarket wheels.


----------



## darkzero

mmcmdl said:


> Snap On the brand , or Snap on the socket holders ?  And Will , I see you still have that dirty rag bucket !



I love my oily rag can! Was a flea market find a few months ago. I just use it as a fancy shop trash can though. It's made by the same Eagle that made oilers.


----------



## mmcmdl

Yep , I remember well . I sit here every night at work and stare at one ! Same one !


----------



## darkzero

Aukai said:


> Will, do you use them, or just have them to look at?  I need to look into that brand mine are Snap On.



Oh and another reason why I have lost faith in the Craftsman name. When I was moving the sockets over to the Ernst rails today, I found this, stupid me never actually looked at them closely but who woulda ever thunk?

The damn 14mm 1/2" deep socket wasn't actually 14mm. It was laser etched 14mm & Craftsman but the damn thing was 16mm & wasn't stamped Craftsman either like the rest are. It was stamped Halford Advanced! 

Found one Sears that actually had one in stock (according to the website). Drove down there & none to be found, no surprise. As I went through the racks the 3rd & final time, I found a 14mm hanging on a 15mm card. Got it exchanged under warranty. Lucky me but honestly I should have never bought any of these to begin with. Maybe one day I'll replace them with something I actually like.


----------



## Aukai

All my original tools are Snap On, my new rails are swivel snap, Snap On's. 6 point 12 point shallow, and deep 1/4-3/8-1/2" to 1 1/2 deep, plus metric, and impacts all shallow, and deep(different brands)


----------



## mmcmdl

I have a few sets from Stanley , Proto and Armstrong . I usually use the Protos and keep the others nice and cleaned and packed away ( somewhere ) for the kids . 

Speaking of tools , I got the latest and greatest HF mailer today . Man have their prices gone up !   I'm hoping to see a turnaround in the tool market with some being made back home soon .


----------



## Aukai

The for sale thread has not been updated since 10 days ago, just sayn', sorry Will. LOL


----------



## mmcmdl

Aukai said:


> The for sale thread has not been updated since 10 days ago, just sayn', sorry Will. LOL



Yep , well aware of mine not being updated . Guess who had and has to work all thru the Holidays ?   I have one item shipped to Canada and waiting for that to arrive , then back to the game . I will tell you that I have made GREAT progress in the last few weeks though . Mostly everything in the basement has been sorted and I think I only have 3 or 4 more coolers full of tooling up in the garage .

That left 62" Vidmar has 5 drawers STUFFED with sockets , ratchets , extensions etc . Most of them will be staying but I might shed a few pounds of them .


----------



## darkzero

Aukai said:


> All my original tools are Snap On, my new rails are swivel snap, Snap On's. 6 point 12 point shallow, and deep 1/4-3/8-1/2" to 1 1/2 deep, plus metric, and impacts all shallow, and deep(different brands)



I still have all my toos from when I worked in automotive & I'm glad. Some of my buddies sold all their tools & they regret it all the time. Pretty much all my sockets and ratchets are Snap-On but I do have a few Matco ratchets. My combo wrenches (long length) are Matco but I do have a set of Snap-On 0° ext reach box wrenches. Love those things but don't get to use them much anymore these days. In the back are Husky sockets. I never use them but keep them around cause half of them are the only imperial sockets I own & they were my first set of tools I bought when I was 17. Back when when Husky was made in the USA. Wish I had a better tool box though.


----------



## mmcmdl

If only you could see in my drawers ! Hm...………..that didn't sound right .


----------



## darkzero

Aukai said:


> The for sale thread has not been updated since 10 days ago, just sayn', sorry Will. LOL



Really, I thought I did update it. Wait for the Mitu calipers or were you talking to Dave?


----------



## darkzero

mmcmdl said:


> If only you could see in my drawers ! Hm...………..that didn't sound right .



Oh I know people have 100x much more stuff than I do & chaotic. I have controlled chaos.    But that's easy when you just have a small humble collection like me. I do have drawers that I don't ever want to open & look in, luckily there's not too many of them.


----------



## mmcmdl

darkzero said:


> luckily there's not too many of them.


 You need more ! 

I'm trying to empty out a few Vidmars and get them over to Mike !


----------



## darkzero

mmcmdl said:


> You need more !



I wish I could. I don't have anymore room in my small little workspace. I really need a bigger tool box but can't fit one anywhere. You guys would probably laugh & make fun of me if you saw my garage. I've started to store tooling in file cabinets cause I have no choice. I don't have any nice tool boxes. Just a couple of Craftsman/Waterloo rollers from the 90s & a couple of HF service carts. But that's ok, I make do with what I have.


----------



## silverhawk

darkzero said:


> I wish I could. I don't have anymore room in my small little workspace. I really need a bigger tool box but can't fit one anywhere. You guys would probably laugh & make fun of me if you saw my garage. I've started to store tooling in file cabinets cause I have no choice. I don't have any nice tool boxes. Just a couple of Craftsman/Waterloo rollers from the 90s & a couple of HF service carts. But that's ok, I make do with what I have.


Actually, if the craftsman roller is a roller bearing from the 90s, keep it. I keep looking for a forest green craftsman roller bearing chest and box to match my other one. That is a great tool box.

joe


----------



## middle.road

So that's what a matched set of sockets and tools looks like. Alas that will never be what my drawers look like.
I've only bought two sets of tools in my life. But then I never needed to make a living with them.
A craftsman 200pc back in high school of which there a a few pieces still floating around. (I'd etched my name in them with a dremel...)
And a Kolbalt set in blown plastic for those runs to the boneyard.


----------



## Aukai

No I'm talking about no new stuff being added in the sale section..


----------



## Aukai

This is just the 1/2" drawer, the back rails are stacked 2 deep....


----------



## middle.road

Made a trip out to a friends place to provide some computer help.
He has a diesel parts/repair biz.
While Windoze was performing it's wonderful 'update' process I went diving in the dumpster.
Good thing that I had Honey's car and not my truck. . .
A counter stool that need covering, a couple of gear drives used on dump truck tarps, an arm off same - has a two way joint that is neat, some scrap cast iron - I hope, brass bushing, and two end caps from a mack valve train.
I figure the caps would make fine ends for a screw clamp, except that I can't get a thread to match.



	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
...
60:1 - maybe.


	

		
			
		

		
	
...


----------



## DavidR8

Mr FedEx dropped this off today. 






(Volume 1 is en route)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## pontiac428

DavidR8 said:


> Mr FedEx dropped this off today.



Definitely a favorite!


----------



## DavidR8

pontiac428 said:


> Definitely a favorite!



Leafing through it makes me feel like I’m climbing Everest. Starting at the bottom of the ocean. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## francist

I have that book too, it’s a great reference. Maybe I’ll spring for Vol 1 one of these days, I really got Vol 2 for the section on shapers but there’s a ton of other useful information in there as well.

-f


----------



## pontiac428

The two volumes go together to form one book.  Not having volume 1 is sacrilege!


----------



## francist

I learned from my mother, she always read the end of the novel first....


----------



## Janderso

I lost a Hypertherm 30 in the fire. 
The Lotus replacement was just not up to par. I sold the Lotus and ordered a Hypertherm Promax XP 45.
Considering it costs $1,500 more than the Lotus and can cut 7/8" or 1/2" clean, I know I will be happy.




__





						hypertherm 45 - Google Shopping
					





					www.google.com


----------



## Ulma Doctor

sweet machine Jeff!


----------



## Janderso

Ulma Doctor said:


> sweet machine Jeff!


Thanks Mike.
A coworker asked to borrow my plasma cutter. He wanted to cut some 1/2” plate brackets off an old 9” Ford drop out. 
I put the Hypertherm water/air filter on it when I bought it and it still ate the crap consumables In quick order.
It’s fine for very light cuts but it just did not compare with my Hypertherm 30. I figured for only a few hundred more, I could get the 45.
There’s an old saying, you get what you pay for.


----------



## Aukai

Playing with mine, much better than the 30....


----------



## darkzero

Tap & drill guides. Surprisingly I've never owned any. Well machined, nice engraving & etching, hardened (so they say, I haven't checked), tumbled, made in USA. I only bought the metric ones, don't have a need for imperial much but I may pick them up later on.

I've never heard of Big Gator Tools. Looked them up & looks like these were on Shark Tank. I thought Shark Tank was for new innovative products? And they're patented? What am I missing, these are nothing new? Whatever, they're nice & I'm happy with them.


----------



## Janderso

They sure look well made.


----------



## Janderso

Aukai said:


> Playing with mine, much better than the 30....


That's incredible.
I was checking out the Hypertherm videos on set-up and use.
Did you go with their $200 water/air filter? I would imagine in the South Pacific the humidity would be an issue.
Is that free hand?


----------



## Superburban

darkzero said:


> And they're patented? What am I missing, these are nothing new? Whatever, they're nice & I'm happy with them.


 Looks like the patent is for the idea of having the holes in line, and the markings on the side for spacing.


----------



## Aukai

Jeff, whatever filter it came with, nothing added, and I had a guide for the cut.


----------



## 38super

HF Vulcan HD cabinet for the TiG and Mig welders.


----------



## MrWhoopee

16mm diameter left-hand inserted threading bar for cutting internal threads from the bottom out.




At less than $12 delivered I just couldn't resist.
May have to work on a lock to prevent the chuck unscrewing.


----------



## NCjeeper

Nice cast iron door stop I scored off of E-Bay. Seller wanted way too much and it has been listed for months. Price finally came down but still more than I wanted to pay. Made an offer I thought was reasonable and they accepted. Has a G&E shaper cast into it. How cool is that? Of course I am partial because I have a G&E shaper.


----------



## DiscoDan

Went to the woodworking show in Baltimore today and found a few things. From the left is a new in box Lufkin thread gauge, new in box and paper Lufkin planer gauge, two lathe bits, 3 deburring stones and a countersink. The guy who had the Lufkin stuff had a whole box and I think everything was new in box.


----------



## Chuck K

I bought a 1 hp 10" Walker Turner pedestal grinder today.  A buddy had bought it and took it apart to replace the bearings and paint it.  After replacing the bearings he got busy with other things and just wanted to get it out of his way. I don't need another grinder but I couldn't pass it up.  We powered it up and it runs silent.


----------



## Aukai

You could put some good size buffing pads on that, I'll have to look around for something like that.


----------



## Chuck K

Aukai said:


> You could put some good size buffing pads on that, I'll have to look around for something like that.


I think I know where you can find one....LOL
Actually I think you want a high rpm motor for buffing. This one is 1750 or whatever the slower motors are.


----------



## Aukai

A quick search showed 1750 as a good rpm for buffing......


----------



## Chuck K

Aukai said:


> A quick search showed 1750 as a good rpm for buffing......


I stand corrected then.  I'll have to look at my little  buffer tomorrow.   I was thinking it was high speed.   Maybe because it's a 6" it needs more rpms.


----------



## darkzero

Chuck K said:


> I stand corrected then.  I'll have to look at my little  buffer tomorrow.   I was thinking it was high speed.   Maybe because it's a 6" it needs more rpms.



Generally the smaller 6" buffers are higher speed, like 3450. The larger the buffer (wheel size) the slower they are due to surface speed, well usually.


----------



## Chuck K

darkzero said:


> Generally the smaller 6" buffers are higher speed, like 3450. The larger the buffer (wheel size) the slower they are due to surface speed, well usually.


That makes sense, but I thought the big buffing machines were high speed too.  I don't know anything about buffing.  I would I imagine that different materials would require different speeds....or maybe not.


----------



## darkzero

Chuck K said:


> That makes sense, but I thought the big buffing machines were high speed too.  I don't know anything about buffing.  I would I imagine that different materials would require different speeds....or maybe not.



Me neither, just what I have seen. I have only used 6" & 8" buffers and I only own a cheap HF 6" buffer. I don't use it much but it does the job for me when I do.


----------



## Aukai

Let me know if you see one, I will do mostly aluminum valve covers, and such.


----------



## darkzero

Hey @mikey, look, I finally got me my very first Albrecht! Are you proud of me? I'm so excited!  






Ok ok, I probably didn't fool anybody with that last pic.  Maybe not so proud of me, it's only a baby Albrecht, second to smallest one they make I believe. 0-1/8"(3mm) capacity, JT0 taper. Came with an original Albrecht 1/2" arbor, had no idea they made arbors except for the integral ones.






Not sure if my indicator is broken or I'm doing it wrong but mounted in my mill with a Chinese collet I got only .0003-.0004" runout, WTH!




I mounted it on an Accupro/Llambrich sensitive adapter, made in Spain. Been wanting a senstive micro drill chuck to use with them tiny PCB carbide drills. The Albrecht adapter is way too much money for me. Was originally planning to mount it on a Royal adapter but I liked the finger wheel better on the Llambrich. The Llambrich ones looks very similar to the Albrecht one. Heard the Sierra American ones were hit & miss on runout. All except the Albrecht one are about the same price, $70.







Never seen a JT0 taper in person before. The thing is so tiny and cute! JT3 on the left, JT4 on the right.





Sorry for so many pics, just really happy & I love this little guy!


----------



## mmcmdl

Sweet ! That's a baby for sure .


----------



## darkzero

A couple of clearance item at Lowes.

SB&D Craftsman tape measures. $5 for the whole set. I only wanted the little ones. I had the identical Stanley set, the first day I used one of the little ones my buddy layed his Skill saw down on it as the blade was still spinning & destroyed the little guy!






Also $5, fender cover. Just a cheapie, wouldn't have bought one at the normal price of $20. Never owned one before cause I was too cheap to buy one but at $5 worth a try, I bought 2. Better than the old bath towels or t-shirts I used to use.


----------



## mikey

Congrats, Will! That little chuck lists for $430-450.00 retail and it is a really nice precision chuck. I have a crappy Jacobs chuck on a Royal sensitive drive but it works and I don't need it too often. Those Albrecht arbors are really precise and when mated to an Albrecht chuck they are really accurate. Albrecht will replace any chuck and arbor that ever spins on one of their arbors, a nice thing to keep in mind. If you ever have a problem with an Albrecht chuck, contact the company and they will make it right. Albrecht is one of the finest companies in the world and their customer service is second to none.

I, for one, am sorry to see Craftsman go.


----------



## darkzero

mikey said:


> Congrats, Will! That little chuck lists for $430-450.00 retail and it is a really nice precision chuck. I have a crappy Jacobs chuck on a Royal sensitive drive but it works and I don't need it too often. Those Albrecht arbors are really precise and when mated to an Albrecht chuck they are really accurate. Albrecht will replace any chuck and arbor that ever spins on one of their arbors, a nice thing to keep in mind. If you ever have a problem with an Albrecht chuck, contact the company and they will make it right. Albrecht is one of the finest companies in the world and their customer service is second to none.
> 
> I, for one, am sorry to see Craftsman go.



Thanks Mike. Wow! Had no idea they cost that much even for the little ones! I paid $140 for it. There was another one already mounted on a Sierra America sensitive adapter for $80 that I was eyeing but I won't buy drill chucks from sellers that don't offer returns. I'm glad I paid more & chose this one, it looks practically brand new & is really smooth.

My other small keyless chuck, 3/8" capacity, is a Jacobs made in Italy and this Albrecht feels soooo much nicer! I now finally know first hand how nice Albrechts are. It's a shame this one won't see a whole lot of use though.


----------



## mikey

That's a really nice price for that chuck and arbor. Just a single Albrecht arbor usually goes for over $130.00 so you done good! I have to find you a nice 1/2" Albrecht chuck so we can rid you of some of that excess money. The last 1/2" Albrecht chuck I bought was brand new and cost me $85.00 - not sure we'll find a deal like that again but you never know.


----------



## mmcmdl

mikey said:


> I have to find you a nice 1/2" Albrecht chuck so we can rid you of some of that excess money.



LOL . Look no farther .  I think I just let go 4 on here and I have a few more .


----------



## darkzero

mikey said:


> That's a really nice price for that chuck and arbor. Just a single Albrecht arbor usually goes for over $130.00 so you done good! I have to find you a nice 1/2" Albrecht chuck so we can rid you of some of that excess money. The last 1/2" Albrecht chuck I bought was brand new and cost me $85.00 - not sure we'll find a deal like that again but you never know.



The seller I purchased has a bunch of really nice Albrecths. He even has a NOS Hartford Jacobs 14N.

Not nearly as cheap as what you paid but this one looks new too. I've saved that seller.









						Albrecht Drill Chuck, 1/32"-1/2" Capacity, 6JT, Jacobs Brand 5/8" Straight Arbor  | eBay
					

This chuck has a 1/32"-1/2" Capacity and a 6JT mounting taper. This item is Used, looks nice, and is in perfect working order. Operation is smooth, and the jaws are perfect. The arbor looks about perfect and nothing was noted.



					www.ebay.com
				




Do the newer models come with bare knurled collars now? I'm used to seeing them black but I've looked at other vendors selling chucks new as well as replacement collars & they show them with bare uncoated collars now. And they have balancing holes. Did they always have the balancing holes?


----------



## mikey

Yeah, the collars are usually bare. Albrecht balances all their chucks to 10K rpm and sometimes the holes show, although none of mine have them. I have noticed those holes on newer chucks, though.


----------



## darkzero

mikey said:


> Yeah, the collars are usually bare. Albrecht balances all their chucks to 10K rpm and sometimes the holes show, although none of mine have them. I have noticed those holes on newer chucks, though.



Ah I see, ok thanks. I was surprised to see the balancing holes on even the small one I got.


----------



## Titanium Knurler

darkzero said:


> Hey @mikey, look, I finally got me my very first Albrecht! Are you proud of me? I'm so excited!
> 
> View attachment 309587
> View attachment 309588
> 
> 
> 
> Ok ok, I probably didn't fool anybody with that last pic.  Maybe not so proud of me, it's only a baby Albrecht, second to smallest one they make I believe. 0-1/8"(3mm) capacity, JT0 taper. Came with an original Albrecht 1/2" arbor, had no idea they made arbors except for the integral ones.
> 
> View attachment 309589
> View attachment 309590
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if my indicator is broken or I'm doing it wrong but mounted in my mill with a Chinese collet I got only .0003-.0004" runout, WTH!
> View attachment 309591
> 
> 
> 
> I mounted it on an Accupro/Llambrich sensitive adapter, made in Spain. Been wanting a senstive micro drill chuck to use with them tiny PCB carbide drills. The Albrecht adapter is way too much money for me. Was originally planning to mount it on a Royal adapter but I liked the finger wheel better on the Llambrich. The Llambrich ones looks very similar to the Albrecht one. Heard the Sierra American ones were hit & miss on runout. All except the Albrecht one are about the same price, $70.
> 
> View attachment 309592
> View attachment 309593
> View attachment 309594
> 
> 
> 
> Never seen a JT0 taper in person before. The thing is so tiny and cute! JT3 on the left, JT4 on the right.
> 
> View attachment 309595
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for so many pics, just really happy & I love this little guy!


Congratulations Will, your going to get a lot of pleasure out of using it and I imagine it will hold it’s value if you ever decide to sell it.

I don’t use mine often but just happened to use it other day on a project I am going to post soon-very smoooth.

Enjoy!


----------



## Aukai

Why is mine different, and the graduations? Don't mind the oil...


----------



## mikey

Yours is the older model, Mike. While I think the newer ones are prettier, I prefer the older style myself. I'm watching one on ebay right now.


----------



## Aukai

Thank you....


----------



## darkzero

Aukai said:


> Why is mine different, and the graduations? Don't mind the oil...



That's the smallest chuck Albrecht makes, 1/16" (1.5mm) capacity. The ones TiKnuler & I have are the second smallest, 1/8" (3mm) capacity. I went with the 1/8" capacity so I could use my carbide PCB drills that have 1/8" shanks.


----------



## mikey

I suppose you need a baby Albrecht with sensitive drilling attachment to drill carburetor jets, yes? 

There used to be a guy (OMW tools) who made a sensitive tapping system for really small taps. I had to do a repair for a friend and needed to tap 00-90 holes, which led me to buying sensitive drilling and tapping tools. They worked well and I never busted a tiny tap. Too bad he stopped making those things. Now you have to make it if you want it.


----------



## BGHansen

Had a great Christmas with our kids.  Santa left me a few things under the tree.  Also picked up some stuff off eBay to fill in the gaps.

Bruce


Santa is getting me an auto-switching control box for my Tormach 1100, currently back ordered from Millfast Products.  The Tormach controller has one accessory plug, so the passive probe and electronic tool setter get plugged/unplugged depending on what I'm doing.  A minor inconvenience, but what makes it a real pain is the probe and ETS have NO and NC switches.  So not only do you have to swap cables, you have to go to a Settings screen to select the appropriate tool.  The Millfast adapter lets both the ETS and the Probe be plugged in at the same time, so no more swapping cables and playing with the Settings screen.



Our son got me a set of Dremel tool bits, sanding drums, etc.



Wife got me a spring scale and another block and tackle for the shop.  I usually shoot one or two deer a year.  This year shot two bucks 20 minutes apart.  The shop has two eye bolts in the ceiling, but just one block and tackle.  I usually hoist one up with the B&T, then loop a second rope through the eye bolt and tie that off to the deer and a cleat on the wall.  Loosen the B&T and move it to the other eye bolt.  The second B&T will make things a little easier if I have two hanging.  Plus we can check the weight.



Santa also got me a punch holder



My stocking had an Indicol holder for a DTI.  I already have one for my Bridgeport and Jet mill, but 15 feet is a bit of a walk . . .



Support bracket and post for a Foredom or Dremel tool grinder.



Optivisor for seeing the splinters I need to dig out of my fingers . . .



My stocking had individual plugs for my Tormach's SMW fixture plate.  I have sheet ones that are about 5" x 10", but sometimes have some space between.  They sell them in colors or black.  Chose the colored ones as they'll be easy to spot on the black fixture plate.



My stocking also had a couple of spiral flute bottoming taps so now I have this style in English sizes from 4-40 to 1/2-13



Wife got me a 4th axis homing kit for my Tormach.  I think it's just a Hall-effect pick up like on Tach's guys stick on lathes and mills.  This will help for setting up the programmable rotary table.



Santa also brought me a set of ten 1" x 6" soft jaws for the Glacern vises on my Tormach.




5-gallon pail adapter for a shop vac.  This goes on the pail and is between the shop vac and suction hose.  The idea is the heavy chips and such get dumped in the pail which is a lot quicker to dump than my 16-gallon shop vac




My wife also got me a set of ER32 collets



Daughter got me a pair of Midwest upright aviator snips.  I have a similar set that are offset by about a 45.  They work much better than standard snips, have an offset that makes them close to a Beverly shear



eBay pick up by me, a bunch of 1/2" Loc Line coolant hoses, valves, nozzles, T's and Y's.



1/4" Loc Line stuff form the same seller.


----------



## Titanium Knurler

That’s quite a haul, you must have been very good last year!


----------



## Aukai

The small drill bits are for air bleeds.


----------



## ats1911

A few items from a local used tool shop. Probably not as cheap as eBay but I can actually look them over.

Had to fill in the 1-2” and 2-3” gaps in the Mitutoyo mics I got from Dave (mmcmdl). The 1-2“ is B&S, a first for me. The telescoping gages are from Japan, no idea of the brand. Not sure what TC is on the parallels.


----------



## darkzero

ats1911 said:


> The telescoping gages are from Japan, no idea of the brand.



They could be Yuasa. Yuasa telescoping gauges were made in Japan & came in a blue pouch.


----------



## roadie33

BGHansen said:


> Had a great Christmas with our kids.  Santa left me a few things under the tree.  Also picked up some stuff off eBay to fill in the gaps.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> 
> Santa is getting me an auto-switching control box for my Tormach 1100, currently back ordered from Millfast Products.  The Tormach controller has one accessory plug, so the passive probe and electronic tool setter get plugged/unplugged depending on what I'm doing.  A minor inconvenience, but what makes it a real pain is the probe and ETS have NO and NC switches.  So not only do you have to swap cables, you have to go to a Settings screen to select the appropriate tool.  The Millfast adapter lets both the ETS and the Probe be plugged in at the same time, so no more swapping cables and playing with the Settings screen.
> View attachment 309653
> 
> 
> Our son got me a set of Dremel tool bits, sanding drums, etc.
> View attachment 309654
> 
> 
> Wife got me a spring scale and another block and tackle for the shop.  I usually shoot one or two deer a year.  This year shot two bucks 20 minutes apart.  The shop has two eye bolts in the ceiling, but just one block and tackle.  I usually hoist one up with the B&T, then loop a second rope through the eye bolt and tie that off to the deer and a cleat on the wall.  Loosen the B&T and move it to the other eye bolt.  The second B&T will make things a little easier if I have two hanging.  Plus we can check the weight.
> View attachment 309655
> 
> 
> Santa also got me a punch holder
> View attachment 309656
> 
> 
> My stocking had an Indicol holder for a DTI.  I already have one for my Bridgeport and Jet mill, but 15 feet is a bit of a walk . . .
> View attachment 309657
> 
> 
> Support bracket and post for a Foredom or Dremel tool grinder.
> View attachment 309658
> 
> 
> Optivisor for seeing the splinters I need to dig out of my fingers . . .
> View attachment 309659
> 
> 
> My stocking had individual plugs for my Tormach's SMW fixture plate.  I have sheet ones that are about 5" x 10", but sometimes have some space between.  They sell them in colors or black.  Chose the colored ones as they'll be easy to spot on the black fixture plate.
> View attachment 309660
> 
> 
> My stocking also had a couple of spiral flute bottoming taps so now I have this style in English sizes from 4-40 to 1/2-13
> View attachment 309661
> 
> 
> Wife got me a 4th axis homing kit for my Tormach.  I think it's just a Hall-effect pick up like on Tach's guys stick on lathes and mills.  This will help for setting up the programmable rotary table.
> View attachment 309662
> 
> 
> Santa also brought me a set of ten 1" x 6" soft jaws for the Glacern vises on my Tormach.
> View attachment 309663
> 
> 
> 
> 5-gallon pail adapter for a shop vac.  This goes on the pail and is between the shop vac and suction hose.  The idea is the heavy chips and such get dumped in the pail which is a lot quicker to dump than my 16-gallon shop vac
> View attachment 309664
> 
> 
> 
> My wife also got me a set of ER32 collets
> View attachment 309665
> 
> 
> Daughter got me a pair of Midwest upright aviator snips.  I have a similar set that are offset by about a 45.  They work much better than standard snips, have an offset that makes them close to a Beverly shear
> View attachment 309666
> 
> 
> eBay pick up by me, a bunch of 1/2" Loc Line coolant hoses, valves, nozzles, T's and Y's.
> View attachment 309667
> 
> 
> 1/4" Loc Line stuff form the same seller.
> View attachment 309668




That must be a Ginormous stocking to hold all of the goodies. Had to use a lag bolt to hold the stocking too I bet.


----------



## BGHansen

roadie33 said:


> That must be a Ginormous stocking to hold all of the goodies. Had to use a lag bolt to hold the stocking too I bet.


Thanks!  Life is great when your wife supports your hobby! 

Oops, missed one.  Fowler EZ-Read 0-6" interchangeable micrometer set.  Just my personal preference; I like the mechanical tumbler style micrometers.  I've got 0-3" sets at both lathes, 2 sets at my mills and a 5th set at my workbench.  I've never used a mic bigger than 3", so figure these won't get much use.  Just couldn't pass up the deals I found on eBay.  Both were $100 delivered.

Bruce


----------



## Janderso

I like the old fashioned dial calipers. I’ve tried them all. The Mitutoyo digital are for the finicky parts.
I had these two Brown and Sharpe dial indicators, Swiss made, stainless but they needed a tune up.
I sent them to Indicator Repair Service, 8025 Lawrence Rd., Bethel Park, PA 15102
412-833-1735.
Speak to John.
They did a beautiful job. Smooth and they zero out.


----------



## darkzero

Nice! I've always loved the dials on Brown & Sharpes.


----------



## DavidR8

Not nearly as fancy as as new calipers or Brown and Sharps but my new independent 4-jaw chuck arrived today. 
Haven’t taken out of the box as it’s completely covered in oil. And I was in the kitchen


----------



## Firstgear

My wife got me two tool boxes that go above lower toolboxes.  One is 26” wide and the other is 44” wide.  I needed more places to put things.  I need to get stuff organized so I can get my ‘63 Corvette split window back in the surgical suite from the adjacent garage.


----------



## Aukai

A dream car right there.


----------



## roadie33

Got this for Christmas. Got tired of the benchtop one and decided to get one that would last a while. Just got it wired up tonight and adjusted the outfeed table.
8 x 76 Spiral cutter head, paralellogram beds, 220v 3 HP motor.
It is so easy to run a board through, the Cuts are perfect and smooth.


----------



## Aukai

Wrong site.....
Nice though...


----------



## DavidR8

@roadie33 that’s quite a step up from a bench top jointer!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Received a couple of weeks ago, just before Christmas so I guess you could say a present to myself. 

Bought a "spin indexer" set up for "5C" collets. I have a little unconventional use in mind so I scrounged around and found an adaptor. I already have a set of ER-25 and a set of ER-16 collets on hand. The adaptor I found was for 5C to ER-25. That should save purchasing a set, or even individuals, of collets for 5C. They're kinda costly and what I have in mind isn't worth that much until it proves out.

The adaptor isn't in yet, it's coming from China. Well, so did the spin indexer, if you traced it back far enough. Total TIR should be a thou or less, if the parts live up to their advertisments. Not so good for a real machinist but usable for my purposes.

The adaptor is coming from Banggood, if anyone wants to know. Pretty cheap......

.


----------



## rwm

Firstgear said:


> My wife got me two tool boxes that go above lower toolboxes.  One is 26” wide and the other is 44” wide.  I needed more places to put things.  I need to get stuff organized so I can get my ‘63 Corvette split window back in the surgical suite from the adjacent garage.


Is this a project or already done? Thread on that?
Robert


----------



## Janderso

DavidR8 said:


> Not nearly as fancy as as new calipers or Brown and Sharps but my new independent 4-jaw chuck arrived today.
> Haven’t taken out of the box as it’s completely covered in oil. And I was in the kitchen


David,
I've had good luck with my Shars purchases. From my experience, they seem to make an effort to sell the better quality components.
 I'd be curious to see what your TIR is when you chuck up a length drill rod.


----------



## Firstgear

Aukai said:


> A dream car right there.


It has a tube chassis, LS7, T56 and modern Corvette suspension at the corners.  I was working on it full time fitting different pieces then I bought a PM mill and lathe and got sidetracked.  Hoping to get the car back into the surgical suite (wife’s description) before spring.


----------



## Firstgear

rwm said:


> Is this a project or already done? Thread on that?
> Robert


I haven’t done a thread, not even on Corvette forum where I was quite active with threads on the build of my ‘60.  Here is a link I put together on the build of that car.  The link takes you to Blurb where I put together a book, 234 pages on that cars build.  





__





						Red Hot Updated Ebook by a Herb Turner creation | Blurb Books
					

Download Red Hot Updated Ebook by a Herb Turner creation. Complete documentation of the build of my 1960 Corvette resto-mod.



					www.blurb.com
				




You can download the book for free to see all the pages.  Right now in the custom car restomod market once you put an idea or build out you will find others using your ideas.  My ‘60 Vette has had many others use that template to build from.  In 2018 I did an indoor show and another car that was there the owner came up to me and told me he used some of my ideas in the build of his car.  My car had been built for 11 years by that time, so I really didn’t mind.  But you have to keep your ideas close because once they are out, they may reach showplace before you do!


----------



## DavidR8

Janderso said:


> David,
> I've had good luck with my Shars purchases. From my experience, they seem to make an effort to sell the better quality components.
> I'd be curious to see what your TIR is when you chuck up a length drill rod.


Thanks!
I did get it out of the box finally last night. 
The back plate goes on very nicely. Very little play in the threads. 

The chuck is clean, no grit or grime but I took it apart, cleaned and reoiled it just to be sure. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 682bear

I've wanted one of these for a LONG time...







Its a little dirty, is missing one vise jaw, and has some 'character' on top of the vise, but runs smooth and quiet, and everything seems to be very tight. Now I just have to figure out how to set it up and run it.

Youtube... here I come!

-Bear


----------



## roadie33

Lucky you,
I'd love to find one of those.


----------



## pontiac428

Janderso said:


> I'd be curious to see what your TIR is when you chuck up a length drill rod.


Maybe not so useful to know TIR on a 4-jaw independent chuck... but I've had good luck with Shars over similar-appearing Chimports.  They clearly specify tighter tolerances from their producers than the cull pallet that ends up on ebay or bango.


----------



## Janderso

pontiac428 said:


> Maybe not so useful to know TIR on a 4-jaw independent chuck... but I've had good luck with Shars over similar-appearing Chimports.  They clearly specify tighter tolerances from their producers than the cull pallet that ends up on ebay or bango.


Well, don't I feel silly. I glanced at it, saw SHARS and decided it was a 3 jaw.
4 jaw, dial it in baby.


----------



## Janderso

682bear said:


> I've wanted one of these for a LONG time...
> 
> View attachment 309839
> 
> 
> View attachment 309841
> 
> 
> Its a little dirty, is missing one vise jaw, and has some 'character' on top of the vise, but runs smooth and quiet, and everything seems to be very tight. Now I just have to figure out how to set it up and run it.
> 
> Youtube... here I come!
> 
> -Bear


Before you run it, take the ram off and check to make sure all the oilers/passages are clear. I found some galling on my Rhodes shaper due to lack of lubrication..
I'm really envious. That looks like a sweet machine. The real beauty of a shaper, you get a lawn chair, a couple adult beverages and watch it make chips.
Much better than TV.


----------



## silverhawk

I bought a Harbor Freight (called "Windsor Design") wooden machinists tool box.  I was thinking it would be perfect for my wife's craft tools and supplies.  However, the tool box was quite a bit bigger than I expected (silly me, I should have checked measurements when I ordered it).  It's the same basic footprint as my Gerstner.  The Gerstner is on the left.







It was too big for her, so I am taking it for my gun cleaning and fishing rod supplies, or possibly my own electronics tool box with exact knives and small tools for inside the house.






It is missing side latches and handles.  The front panel doesn't release by opening the lid with the Harbor Freight like it does on the Gerstner.  You have to engage the key to open that panel.






It is not as finished.  It could have used some sanding before being finished.  Many folks have complained that the drawers are not as easy or smooth to operate - the lack of sanding will be why.  I know they add soap to the drawers to make the operation of them smoother, and at some point, that is what I will do.

So, for my opinion of this tool box.  If you want a machinists tool box, but can't afford much, I say get it.  It works.  It functions.  Yes, it does have some issues, but for a tool box that can house your blocks, gauges, etc, this is actually not a bad move.  If you do purchase one, please be aware that you will be doing some additional work to get it where you want it.


----------



## darkzero

Got me an Edge Technology Pro Tram today. They sent it to me for free!


----------



## mikey

Wait ... what? PM sends you stuff for free, now Edge Technologies is doing it, too. Come on, Will, you gotta' share your secret with us - how are you doing this?


----------



## Ulma Doctor

nice score Will!!!
btw,
you suck!!!


----------



## darkzero

mikey said:


> Wait ... what? PM sends you stuff for free, now Edge Technologies is doing it, too. Come on, Will, you gotta' share your secret with us - how are you doing this?



Haha, I don't know? Stuff like this never happens to me! I'm in shock & of course really happy! This wasn't like a raffle or anything like that but it feels like I won something, I never win anything!


----------



## mikey

darkzero said:


> Haha, I don't know? Stuff like this never happens to me! I'm in shock & of course really happy! This wasn't like a raffle or anything like that but it feels like I won something, I never win anything!



Hmmm ... all evidence to the contrary! Happy for you in any case, Will!


----------



## hman

silverhawk said:


> I bought a Harbor Freight (called "Windsor Design") wooden machinists tool box.
> <snip>
> The front panel doesn't release by opening the lid with the Harbor Freight like it does on the Gerstner.  You have to engage the key to open that panel.
> <snip>
> If you do purchase one, please be aware that you will be doing some additional work to get it where you want it.


I have a couple of these and agree that they ain't the Cadillac of boxes.  More like an old Chevy.

Here's what I did to a used one I bought recently. First off, I removed the cheesy locks (that required TWO different keys.) Then I drilled down along the centerline of the front face of the tray - something like ⅜" diameter nearly through, then about 3/16" thru the face and into the edge of the drop panel. Added a circlip to a 5/32" rod, dropped a spring down the hole, stuck in the rod, and voila - a front panel latch operated by the lid.

The hole where the panel lock used to be is now a finger pull.


----------



## Billh51

roadie33 said:


> Got this for Christmas. Got tired of the benchtop one and decided to get one that would last a while. Just got it wired up tonight and adjusted the outfeed table.
> 8 x 76 Spiral cutter head, paralellogram beds, 220v 3 HP motor.
> It is so easy to run a board through, the Cuts are perfect and smooth.
> 
> View attachment 309781


I have several professional grade woodworking machines from Grizzly and I am well satisfied, owned them for  about 12 years and no problems. That’s a beautiful jointer you have, I’ve heard the spiral cutter heads do a great job, build something cool.


----------



## darkzero

Got me some new more expensive drifts. I've been using inexpensive TTC ones I got from the local Travers. They worked perfectly fine but for the Jacobs MT3 extension I use somewhat often I always had to use the MT3 drift stacked with the MT1 drift cause it wasn't wide enough. I don't have any MT4 stuff, bought a MT4 drift hoping that would work but it's too thick for the slot.

These drifts are either made by LFA/Reichel (France drill chuck mfg) or Llambrich (Spain drill chuck mfg), I'm thinking LFA judging by the searches I did online. I bought the Llambrich ones cause they're a few bucks less. Each drift is longer in length & wider than normal drifts so they cover two sizes. I tried the 3-4 drift & it works with my MT3 ext without needing a second drift. So I decided to buy the other 2 smaller ones to make them my new set. Gonna sell my old ones.


----------



## MrWhoopee

It's the little things....

I used to have a 3 in. (I believe) double square, which I found incredibly useful for small weldments and other typical machine work. Much more useful than the usual 12 in. combination square. Somehow it grew legs, which I would expect from flashier and more valuable tools. It's been bothering me for way too long, so I finally ordered one. Couldn't find a 3 in., had to settle for 4.


----------



## Stonebriar

Will thanks, added to my list of tools to buy. And thanks for doing the research for me...


----------



## francist

Couple of new wheels this week: A ceramic alumina in 80-grit, and a pink aluminum oxide cup wheel in 60-grit. Still working on a couple hubs for the grinder but so far so good.




Oh and one more, a 6” x 3/8” ruby aluminum oxide from a buddy.




-frank


----------



## C-Bag

francist said:


> Couple of new wheels this week: A ceramic alumina in 80-grit, and a pink aluminum oxide cup wheel in 60-grit. Still working on a couple hubs for the grinder but so far so good.
> 
> View attachment 310176
> 
> 
> Oh and one more, a 6” x 3/8” ruby aluminum oxide from a buddy.
> 
> View attachment 310177
> 
> 
> -frank


But you are only teetering on da edge of da wabbit hole......wait till ya go to balance them


----------



## DavidR8

Volume 1!







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Janderso

DavidR8 said:


> Volume 1!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have both of them. Great reading!


----------



## mmcmdl

Didn't buy anything , but I feel that I saved a couple grand ! I heard tickets to the Titans/Ravens game were going for 2 grand a piece . I came to work instead and made 50 cents ! The game is really hard to even listen to on the radio ! Ravens


----------



## middle.road

mmcmdl said:


> Didn't buy anything , but I feel that I saved a couple grand ! I heard tickets to the Titans/Ravens game were going for 2 grand a piece . I came to work instead and made 50 cents ! The game is really hard to even listen to on the radio ! Ravens


Titans/Ravens - that's football, right?   
da Bears!


----------



## middle.road

Meanwhile back in mid-December at the estate sale where I scored the hoist I posted about several pages back...
There was a number of out-buildings on the property. The guy had a forge and a sawmill going, amongst two workshops.
One of the buildings had a bunch of geodes & agates from a rock store that had closed up and a tree had fallen on it and collasped it completey and scattered rocks all over the ground.
Honey was busy for three hours scrounging them out of the ground - (3) buckets fulls. (Honey likes her geodes.)
It was at the end of the day, we were all loaded up and then the Charlie Brown syndrome hit, couldn't leave it behind.


	

		
			
		

		
	
 ...
	

		
			
		

		
	



I really only went cause I wanted this top chest for the deep and thick drawers. bottom is a non-roller drawer type. -bleh
----
_and then,_
Got the bandsaw, couple of dozen blades, the makita, the clamps, two buckets full of misc shop junk, and a propane double-head heater for $50.
Now I know it's a 'junquer' but for the price... Some other guy was going to take but then he realized it wouldn't fit in his Camry - go figure.
Had to unload & repack the truck to get the bandsaw in.





	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	



The cord on the Makita is GONE. But the piece itself is not too beat up, I'm hoping it'll be a gem once I replace the cord.
Clamps are going to require some attention, probably more than they're worth.


----------



## rwm

Robert


----------



## MrWhoopee

DavidR8 said:


> Volume 1!



Need to dig mine out, they were my text books at the JC.   I've been reading "How to Run a Lathe", but it's getting "old"


----------



## projectnut

Well today I got stoned.  Not only once, but multiple times.  It's the first time it's happened in nearly 30 years.  It was a pleasant experience, but not exactly what you might think.

The reality of the situation is that I bought several bench stones, sharpening stones, and surface grinder wheels for the shop.  I always stone the table on the mill when changing out vises, or before I clamp something to the table.  My cleaning stones date back to the mid 1980's and were getting loaded with junk.  I've cleaned them over the years, but it was finally time to invest in a few new ones.

I did a fair amount of research at my local vendors and online including an obligatory search on eBay.  I ended up purchasing several fine, medium, and coarse grit stones for the table and grinder, and a 10 pack of wheels for the grinder.

I bought a 5 pack of these from another vendor:








						NORTON Crystolon Pocket Stone FJB-1 Fine Sharpening Stone  | eBay
					

Norton Crystolon Pocket Sharpening Stone. 6 x 25 x 101mm. Size: 1/4 x 1 x 4".



					www.ebay.com
				




4 like these from a different vendor at about half this cost:








						NOS! NORTON 1/4" x 1" x 4" MEDIUM CRYSTOLON MJB14 BENCH SHARPENING STONE 85465  | eBay
					

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for NOS! NORTON 1/4" x 1" x 4" MEDIUM CRYSTOLON MJB14 BENCH SHARPENING STONE 85465 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



					www.ebay.com
				




1 like this at considerably less cost from another vendor:








						NOS! NORTON 6" x 2" x 1" COARSE INDIA CB6 BENCH SHARPENING STONE 85620  | eBay
					

COARSE INDIA STONE, CB6. BENCH SHARPENING STONE. 6" x 2" x 1".



					www.ebay.com
				




and finally a 10 pack of these, again from a different vendor for less than 1/3 the price this vendor is asking :








						Norton 32A 7"x1/4"x1-1/4 32A120-KVBE Grinding Wheel Pk of 5 for sale online | eBay
					

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Norton 32A 7"x1/4"x1-1/4 32A120-KVBE Grinding Wheel Pk of 5 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



					www.ebay.com
				




I was amazed at the range of asking prices for the same items.  Some vendors are asking more than the retail price for their products, while others are asking between 1/3 and 1/2 the retail price.

That's my story, and I'm sticking with it !!!!


----------



## hman

"But I would not feel so alone ... everybody must get stoned"  ;~)


----------



## middle.road

OK, this is bad one. 
About an hour ago I went digging for one of my Linux laptops to try out something.
They reside on a shelf underneath the 'puter repair bench for safe keeping. It's only about two laptops high, not much of an opening.
Well resting on the shelf next to one of the lappys was a Mitutoyo box. Huh?
It's a 12"er. I have no recollection of where/when I picked this up in the last several months.
Mind appears to be failing. Not a good sign.  Stashed it in a good place to keep it from getting banged up.


----------



## roadie33

middle.road said:


> Titans/Ravens - that's football, right?
> da Bears!



Go Chiefs.


----------



## GreatOldOne

Starrett odd leg marking calipers


mitutoyo digital clock, micron / 10ths resolution


liquid blue, as the paste stuff Ive got at the moment doesn’t do a very good job.


----------



## Superburban

Thta caliper is called a hermaphrodite Caliper. You can Google it to find all kinds of info.


----------



## tfleming

Picture says it all!  I already have the torch from Cronatron, and this will make a nice companion for it.


----------



## finsruskw

Arrived in the mail today


----------



## Lo-Fi

I went on a bit of a spree this eve... Worked my *** off the last few months and needed something to carry me through the dark winter nights.

125mm versatile milling vise (after much research and agonising), 25mm R8 APMT insert end mill and a couple of work stops from Arc + inserts from ebay. Impulse buys after choosing the vise, but I think they'll see a lot of use.

14 piece hardened parallel set from Zoro. 

MGMN parting tool with inserts. I thought the lathe deserved a treat or the poor thing might feel left out.

Put in an offer on a manual surface grinder, which my bank account was relieved to find was declined.

Bought a bunch of steel stock to turn into chips too.

On the plus side, I'm a DRO away from having a complete basic setup (at least as far as the larger stuff goes) for the mill. I pity the poor delivery drivers.


----------



## BGHansen

OK, I've officially removed "micrometer 0-6 set" off my eBay searches. . .  Picked up another Fowler 0-6" set with interchangeable anvils.  Have two of them now and a 6-12" set.  Good on mic's I'll probably never use.  Just couldn't turn it down for $60 including shipping.  Oh, by the way, the interchangeable anvils on the 0-6" sets are identical to the 6-12" set.  Both 0-6" sets came with 4/5/6" anvils that have never been used which tells me both were used as 4, 5 and 6" mic's.  Makes sense, they would be very cumbersome to use as 1" mic's.

Bruce




 Latest set, though $100 delivered was a decent price on the first set I picked up.  This one was $60 including shipping.



Just my personal preference, I like the tumbler-style digital mic's over the LCD displays.  Yaa, can't set zero at any arbitrary point, but the batteries never run out.


----------



## Aukai

Damn Ebay, does this still interest you, make an offer. Sure 100.00 bucks...We accept your offer...... Hope for the best I guess.









						20pc LOT USED SOLID CARBIDE END MILLS 2 3 4 FLUTE CENTER CUTTING BRIDGEPORT MILL  | eBay
					

END MILLS. I LOOKED AT THEM AND TRIED TO REMOVE ANY THAT WERE JUNK. Condition: Used. LOCATION: WB9-5-6. MPN: MH0868RN.



					www.ebay.com


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited the tool/ flea market. Its winter so no big items are offered. But i managed to find couple of things. First was this big car boot cover 6$ i may use in in the little niva. Then i found this threding die with holder for 2$. Then this garage fan 10$ a set of pretty big solid rubber wheels 7$ i've been needing a set for my welder for a while. Not bad for a sunday, the plan is to visit it again during the week if i have more time.


----------



## Aaron_W

So this metric threading device followed me home...

I've always been curious about these 9x20 lathes and one was available about 30 miles away at an extremely reasonable price. Damn that Craigslist!  

Seriously though it was cheaper than buying a set of metric thread cutting gears for my Powermatic lathe, so that was my justification. I'll leave this one set up for metric threading. That is my story anyway, and so what if I never work in metric.  

Very little tooling with it, just the 4" chuck and a drill chuck in the tail stock. It has the same spindle thread and tail stock taper as my 10x24 so a lot of my existing tooling will cross pollinate. It looks practically new despite being almost 26 years old, very clean, no rust or signs wear, everything is tight, just a few minor cosmetic blemishes. I've literally bought new stuff at Harbor Freight that was in worse condition. It is an older model so almost no plastic in it.

Ignore the dinged up handles, my clumsy ass caught the door frame bringing it in and boogered up the handles on the cross slide and compound. Already checked Grizzly and $20 should take care of that.


----------



## rwm

Be aware that the lead screws are probably Metric even though the handwheels are calibrated in Imperial. There is a small cumulative error when in use. I assume your handwheels have Imperial dials? If I remember correctly each turn of the handwheel is 0.104".
Robert


----------



## Aaron_W

rwm said:


> Be aware that the lead screws are probably Metric even though the handwheels are calibrated in Imperial. There is a small cumulative error when in use. I assume your handwheels have Imperial dials? If I remember correctly each turn of the handwheel is 0.104".
> Robert



So the issue would be when turning imperial, or metric or just an issue in general?

It is kind of weird but I really bought it to play with the machine itself, there are so many tweaks out there for these. I have a larger and smaller lathe so from a purely practical perspective it doesn't add any significant capacity, but sometimes not being practical is fun. Half the stuff we make isn't practical and could be purchased for a lot less than the time and effort we put into it.


----------



## GoceKU

Couple more things follow me home, i stopped by the local flea/ tool market, first to buy was this vehicle LPG ( propane) evaporator, it was cheap so i got it, then i bought me a luggage dolly, it look sturdy with is steel rims and solid tires but one of the pivot points let go in its first use. No big deal i'll drop a bolt thru it. Last picture is the electric motor i got on sunday for 10$ but forgot to take a picture of. Not bad for a work day.


----------



## hman

Is the luggage dolly meant for carrying the wood pellets to your heater?


----------



## GoceKU

I carry the fire pallets by hand they are close and light, the luggage dolly is for heavier staff, i use them when i'm at the flea/tool market because i'm parking close to a mile away when i'm with my sedan and half that with the Niva.


----------



## Janderso

I got a deal on EBay.
Criterion and Bokum, Detroit.
The brazed carbide from Criterion are amazing. Just think, they have the correct geometry. I put an example for your viewing pleasure.
	

		
			
		

		
	





Not just a hunk of thick carbide with the wrong offsets.
The 60 degree internal threading tools are great.
I can’t believe I won this auction for what I paid.


----------



## rwm

Aaron_W said:


> So the issue would be when turning imperial, or metric or just an issue in general?
> 
> It is kind of weird but I really bought it to play with the machine itself, there are so many tweaks out there for these. I have a larger and smaller lathe so from a purely practical perspective it doesn't add any significant capacity, but sometimes not being practical is fun. Half the stuff we make isn't practical and could be purchased for a lot less than the time and effort we put into it.



That will not be an issue for threading except depth of cut. I noticed that the cross slide seemed to be off when I was making diameter reductions. Check your cross slide movement comparing the handwheel against a caliper. I think you will find .100 on the handwheel is really .104. (or maybe it was .396 I can't remember which way it was off.)
Robert


----------



## Aaron_W

rwm said:


> That will not be an issue for threading except depth of cut. I noticed that the cross slide seemed to be off when I was making diameter reductions. Check your cross slide movement comparing the handwheel against a caliper. I think you will find .100 on the handwheel is really .104. (or maybe it was .396 I can't remember which way it was off.)
> Robert



 Ah, yeah that makes sense it is not a perfect conversion, so why some brands make a big deal about having a real standard lead screw instead of just converted from metric.


----------



## finsruskw

Picked this up yesterday from a C/L ad.
Jaws are a little peckered up, PO says he replaced the movable jaw needle bearings.
It tramed up easily. Is that a viable set up for the tram I have there??
I adjusted the backlash and it seemed to help some.
I'm making parts for a burr puzzle after scaling the dim's down from 3/4" stock to 1/2" as that's what I had on hand.


----------



## GoceKU

Sunday i went to the local tool/flea market. First thing i bought right after the gate was a two tow ropes, they have nice cast hooks and have small amount of stretch to them, got them both for 6$. Then i spent some time and bought me this 26mm concrete drill bit i paid 7$ for it. Then i come by a vender selling electrical cables, i bought me a roll of thinner gauge cable for a future project (inspection pit) for 7$. Then i started looking for car parts, i come by and bought a dirty set of fuel injectors and fuel rail and regulator for a Yugo, i paid 2$ for them. In the mix of car parts there also was this huge three phase switch, i like the long handle on it and to was only 3$ which is cheap. Then i come by and bought this Lada niva timing chain tensioner new with some surface rust for 1$. Then i found a new lada distributor cap and mice trap also for 1$, i don't have mice problem i got it for the strong spring. Not too bad on the walet. Thanks for watching


----------



## DavidR8

Technically I bought this on Saturday but 
48” of 1.25” 6061
24” of 1.125” 1045
24” of 1.00” 12L14
8” of 2.5” 416


(edits to correct diameter dimension of 1045 and 12L14)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## francist

DavidR8 said:


> 48” of 1.25” 6061
> 24” of 1.25” 1045
> 24” of 1.25” 12L14
> 8” of 2.5” 416


That must have set you back a bit -- wha'cha building? Or just inventory.


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> That must have set you back a bit -- wha'cha building? Or just inventory.


Just inventory to be honest.
Some of it was from Metal Supermarket as General Metals only had the 1045.
He is basically running a hobby business in that he's not open business hours, only evenings and Saturdays. He has very little solid stock.
The folks at Metal Supermarket were decent to deal with to be honest.
The 12L14 was .92/inch
6061 was 1.09/inch
1045 was $2/ft (I paid $20 for 2 ft so...) 
All in, $139 inc. tax


----------



## francist

Yeah, I just wish I could figure out their pricing strategy a bit better.


----------



## DavidR8

Oh and this via a FB post.
12 lbs of CRS 1" and 1/2" for $14 shipped


----------



## mattthemuppet2

doh - too slow! Those are decent prices. I bought 16lb of aluminium and stainless (no idea what grade) for $5 last Friday  The stainless bit was 7/8x35", found it half buried in the mud at the scrap yard..




slight caveat to the above haul - I did have to carry 44lb of CI brake disks to the scrap yard on my bike to get that price. It was originally $8, then the $3 scrap for the disks was taken off


----------



## DavidR8

mattthemuppet2 said:


> nice! how much did you pay?


$139 for the 6061, 12L14, 1045 and the 416.
$14 for the short lengths of CRS
Scratch the CRS shots... the seller just realized that I'm in Canada so the shipping is too high.


----------



## francist

DavidR8 said:


> The 12L14 was .92/ft
> 6061 was 1.09/ft
> 1045 was $2/ft


Umm, something's not computing. I think those prices are per inch -- otherwise you really did find some good bargains!


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> Umm, something's not computing. I think those prices are per inch -- otherwise you really did find some good bargains!





francist said:


> Umm, something's not computing. I think those prices are per inch -- otherwise you really did find some good bargains!


Right... per inch sorry!
I'll edit to reduce the confusion.


----------



## francist

I'm taking you shopping with me the next time...


----------



## DavidR8

Not a buy but a gift...
A former machinist (27 yr career) just gave me all the stuff he left in what is now my garage.
Off the top of my head there's:

A set of large mics, (they are blue)
About six 1-2-3 blocks,
Several Starrett Mitutoyo squares including a two centre finder heads,
Some Mitutoyo rules,
A 6" digital caliper,
A couple of 6" rules
A bunch of miscellaneous things that I'll need help identifying.

I think I'm going to need a bigger toolbox!


----------



## Aukai

I have 7, 2 42 wide, 2 72 wide, 2 stacked roll away's, and a Kennedy top box, your just getting started  , I have a good assortment of mechanics tools also.


----------



## Aukai

Dave has 5 or 6 6' tall Vidmar tool boxes, I aint nothing special


----------



## DavidR8

Holy smokes! That's a medium fortune in tools (and toolboxes!)


----------



## Aukai

Given enough years you will get there too.


----------



## DavidR8

Ok here's pics...


----------



## Aukai

That's a score


----------



## DavidR8

But wait! There's more 




I need help identifying what this is. It's in a red Starrett case.



Also need help identifying this one. Also in a red Starrett case.


----------



## Aukai

A treasure trove of donations, wow!!!


----------



## DavidR8

Yet more!


----------



## Aukai

I think you just got your first,   You suck award. Congratulations....


----------



## DavidR8

Thanks! That's way better than the "You crashed the site" award! 

(Oh and there's a whole drawer full of drills, end mills and taps!)


----------



## darkzero

Very nice score David. You must be one happy camper today! I know I would be with all that.


----------



## darkzero

My brothers told me this is sacrilege, I call it blasphemy but I don't care! My old Dewalt XRP NiCad drill lives!

I retired this drill like 10+ yrs ago cause the batteries died. Was cheaper to buy a new drill than buy replacement batteries. Well now a days they make all kinds of battery adapters. Got me an adapter that allows me to use Mikwaukee M18 batteries with the Dewalt. This same adapter will accept the current Dewalt Li-ion batteries too. Also has a USB port on it. Not that I needed the drill but the adapter was only $13.









Wasn't gonna repost this but this is the pic where Dave (@mmcmdl) said he saw me buy the Rapid Charger 4 times already.  Since I have plenty of batteries is why I bought the adapter above.


----------



## darkzero

Got me a sheet metal gauge by PEC, made in the US. Most are made in China now. Has decimals on the back. They normally cost $25-$35, got it for $10 shipped new. The seller has one more left on ebay if anyone is interested.






Again Dave (@mmcmdl) was making fun of me cause this is what I was ironing the other day like I was Suzie homemaker. Haha. Was at the local Travers & somehow I left with a height gauge cover. Gonna use it for my cheap 6" digital that I always leave out, my Mitu always gets put back into the wooden case. Found a nice little Indian lady to shorten it & sew it back up for me. Not sure if I like it though. I was just using a rag before that I think I like better. Oh well, we'll see.


----------



## Aukai

I only have a 14, and a 16 Jacobs, but there are 3 Albrechts, and a micro. I'll have to look at adapters, I have some dead tools laying around.


----------



## darkzero

It's crazy, they make all sorts of battery adapters for 18v/20v max tools now. Well the popular brands anyway like Makita, Milwaukee, Dewalt, Ryobi, Porter Cable. Not sure about Ridgid or Hitachi/Metabo HPT.

Dewalt actually makes their own Li-ion adapter for the old XRP tools but it only works with Dewalt batteries of course. I'm on the Milwaukee platform now so it was good for me that there was an adapter to use Milwaukee batteries.


----------



## Aukai

I have old Porter Cable, and an unused 18v lithium ion Makita kit, I just opened after 5 years. I'm seeing if the batteries will charge right now. Fingers crossed...


----------



## darkzero

DavidR8 said:


> I need help identifying what this is. It's in a red Starrett case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also need help identifying this one. Also in a red Starrett case.



First one is a Starrett 196 set, back plunger indicator, many people use it for tramming a mill. I have the same set.

Second one is an I.D. micrometer.


----------



## darkzero

Aukai said:


> I have old Porter Cable, and an unused 18v lithium ion Makita kit, I just opened after 5 years. I'm seeing if the batteries will charge right now. Fingers crossed...



The li-ions will probably be fine. But if the charger throws a bad battery indicator the voltage on the pack may be too low. If you do get that you can jump start to bring the voltage up so that the charger will start charging, plenty of videos on YT.


----------



## Aukai

It's starting the cycle without throwing a fault,,, so far.....


----------



## darkzero

Nice, sounds like you should be good!


----------



## mmcmdl

More batteries Will ?  I'm on board today Mike , so lets get a box or 2 shipped ! BTW , those Vidmars are getting lighter by the day .


----------



## darkzero

mmcmdl said:


> More batteries Will ?


----------



## mmcmdl

I know all about it ! They multiply like wabbits when you stock them all in a drawer


----------



## mmcmdl

I'm thinkin Dave needs a Starrett 196 indicator to fill that void in his nice red box !


----------



## DavidR8

mmcmdl said:


> I'm thinkin Dave needs a Starrett 196 indicator to fill that void in his nice red box !



Do you have one?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mmcmdl

DavidR8 said:


> Do you have one?



Quite possibly .


----------



## mattthemuppet2

darkzero said:


> My brothers told me this is sacrilege, I call it blasphemy but I don't care! My old Dewalt XRP NiCad drill lives!
> 
> I retired this drill like 10+ yrs ago cause the batteries died. Was cheaper to buy a new drill than buy replacement batteries. Well now a days they make all kinds of battery adapters. Got me an adapter that allows me to use Mikwaukee M18 batteries with the Dewalt. This same adapter will accept the current Dewalt Li-ion batteries too. Also has a USB port on it. Not that I needed the drill but the adapter was only $13.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 311726



I printed one of those for my B&D drills and yard tools, works a dream! That one part alone pretty much justified getting a 3D printer


----------



## Aukai

Dave I think we should just pack a Vidmar, lock it, band it to a pallet, and I'll have it picked up.


----------



## Nogoingback

DavidR8 said:


> Do you have one?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




David, since you have a four jaw chuck now, you need an indicator to dial in your stock. If you pick up the Starrett  indicator
you're missing, you can use it for that.




This one is permanently mounted to a boring bar holder for that purpose.


----------



## Overkill19

I got a new floor today if that counts! The calcium carbonate they put on the streets was eating my concrete badly! 
















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

Nogoingback said:


> David, since you have a four jaw chuck now, you need an indicator to dial in your stock. If you pick up the Starrett  indicator
> you're missing, you can use it for that.
> 
> View attachment 311789
> 
> 
> This one is permanently mounted to a boring bar holder for that purpose.


That's a great idea!. Did you have to make a bushing to adapt to the boring bar holder?


----------



## Aukai

I like that, very nice. The shop space is well done too.


----------



## Nogoingback

DavidR8 said:


> That's a great idea!. Did you have to make a bushing to adapt to the boring bar holder?







No, I just turned a pin so that the major diameter fits the boring bar holder and the smaller diameters fit two sizes of snug that I have.


----------



## DavidR8

Thanks @Nogoingback, that's brilliant!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Overkill19 said:


>



ooh, that's lovely that is!

us much as it pains me to do so, I bought some alu round off ebay for a pair of LED fog/ spot lights for my car. 2 3/8" x 8 1/2" for $18 out the door, which I thought was pretty reasonable. 


I'll accumulate the rest of the parts (lenses, LEDs and drivers) over the next couple of months. I wonder if I can buy stock connectors for my existing (crap) Subaru fog/ spot lights?


----------



## Aaron_W

I picked up this guy, every shop needs a muse.

Lets make some happy little chips.


----------



## middle.road

My Better-Half picked this up at an estate sale this past weekend.
I was pleasantly surprised to see it was a Lufkin. And it has a leather sleeve.
'Cabot Stain' - pass out ruler?


	

		
			
		

		
	
...


----------



## DavidR8

NC and NF taps and drills to 1/2”
Four 3/8” HSS blanks and some 3/8 key stock for grinding practice with my yet-to-arrive belt grinder 
@mikey






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## finsruskw

Overkill19 said:


> I got a new floor today if that counts! The calcium carbonate they put on the streets was eating my concrete badly!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Kinda looks like my floor!!
Before I moved everything back in.


----------



## DavidR8

These garage floor pictures make me weep.


----------



## darkzero

DavidR8 said:


> These garage floor pictures make me weep.



Weep? Heck I would Sleep in those shops!


----------



## DavidR8

darkzero said:


> Weep? Heck I would Sleep in those shops!


They are cleaner than my house ever is!
Though I have to say I took heart in the clutter workbench on @Overkill19 's bench.
Oh wait, maybe it just looks like that because of the floor work... sigh


----------



## darkzero

DavidR8 said:


> They are cleaner than my house ever is!
> Though I have to say I took heart in the clutter workbench on @Overkill19 's bench.
> Oh wait, maybe it just looks like that because of the floor work... sigh



Haha same here! Those are some nice shops! I wish I had a shop. My shop, er.. humble little workspace would easiky fit in the corner of one of those shop. I wish I had space.


----------



## matthewsx

I just moved (kinda) to a new town and left my shop (mostly) behind so I've been checking the "free" section of Craigslist for tools. Over the weekend I picked up a tablesaw that's the twin to my dad's old saw in my Michigan shop.




It's undergoing the evaporust treatment right now but has already made some cuts for me.

But today I was looking and this guy in Watsonville wanted some scrap metal hauled away, washing machine, car parts, etc. What caught my eye was this sweet little saw he was trying to get rid of.













Now, I've wanted a coldsaw for years and the thought of getting one for the price of hauling away some scrap metal....
Well, I was all over that.

John


----------



## Flyinfool

HELP I'm falling, into the rabbit hole.....
I finally got brave and pushed the buy button on a 3d printer.
It should be here next week.


----------



## vocatexas

Why I bought it I don't know. I needed another lathe project like I need a hole in the head. Saturday at an auction I bought a Lodge and Shipley Patent Head 18 inch. I haven't measured it yet, but I think it's 96 inches between centers. Came with a 4 jaw, steady rest, 3 tool holders, and taper attachment. I'll try to post up some pics in the L&S section later this week.


----------



## ACHiPo

Overkill19 said:


> I got a new floor today if that counts! The calcium carbonate they put on the streets was eating my concrete badly!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Pretty!  Keep us posted on how it holds up.  Looks like proper prep was done.  Nice!


----------



## middle.road

Flyinfool said:


> HELP I'm falling, into the rabbit hole.....
> I finally got brave and pushed the buy button on a 3d printer.
> It should be here next week.


Wave By-By . . .


----------



## DavidR8

mmcmdl said:


> Quite possibly .


I popped you a PM


----------



## Aukai

I just noticed the 4 wheels in the shop picture 15x16, or there abouts?


----------



## darkzero

Aukai said:


> I just noticed the 4 wheels in the shop picture 15x16, or there abouts



Haha you Hawaii peeps would notice those kind of size wheels.


----------



## hman

DavidR8 said:


> NC and NF taps and drills to 1/2”


They look like nice sets ... but both are labeled "coarse."  Ah, well....


----------



## Aukai

Drag racers go straight to the finish line, and don't go around in circles looking for it....


----------



## roadie33

darkzero said:


> My brothers told me this is sacrilege, I call it blasphemy but I don't care! My old Dewalt XRP NiCad drill lives!
> 
> I retired this drill like 10+ yrs ago cause the batteries died. Was cheaper to buy a new drill than buy replacement batteries. Well now a days they make all kinds of battery adapters. Got me an adapter that allows me to use Mikwaukee M18 batteries with the Dewalt. This same adapter will accept the current Dewalt Li-ion batteries too. Also has a USB port on it. Not that I needed the drill but the adapter was only $13.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 311726
> 
> View attachment 311743
> 
> 
> 
> Wasn't gonna repost this but this is the pic where Dave (@mmcmdl) said he saw me buy the Rapid Charger 4 times already.  Since I have plenty of batteries is why I bought the adapter above.
> 
> View attachment 311727


They make adapters for just about any combo of power tools made

Dewalt to Ryobi or Craftsman
Dewalt 20v to 18v tool
And all the rest.


----------



## hman

Aukai said:


> Drag racers go straight to the finish line, and don't go around in circles looking for it....


Definitely worthy of the "Quotes and Sayings" thread!


----------



## eugene13

Aukai said:


> Drag racers go straight to the finish line, and don't go around in circles looking for it....


Drag racing, is that where you have to wear womans cloths.


----------



## Overkill19

ACHiPo said:


> Pretty! Keep us posted on how it holds up. Looks like proper prep was done. Nice!



Thx it’s Polyaspartic... 21 year warranty but only time will tell. 










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## silverhawk

It has nothing to do with machining, but my wife and I are climbing on an airplane to visit a Canadian hockey game.  Of course, it will make things weird when she is wearing an oilers shirt underneath the blues sweater, but that's what happens when you have family that can't make the flight.




Hockey (and my wife's love of the sport) is part of the usual reasons why my machining slows down during the winter.


----------



## GoceKU

When car guys go quiet, people around them know they are too no good. So "i accidentally bought me another car" and being me it has some issues so it will be an project till i get it sorted out. i'm not a person to drive a car with the dashboard lit up like a christmas tree. Now the car is a Peugeot 607 2.7 HDI Twin turbo diesel with all the bells and whistles the highest level of equipment. It has a problem with the cooling system, (may be a head gasket) if anyone is interested in seeing me pull my hair out diagnosis it i'll start a thread about it.


----------



## BGHansen

Picked up another set of 0-3" digital Fowler micrometers off eBay.  Just my personal preference for this style over conventional vernier type or LCD digital.  Paid about $60 including shipping so pretty happy.

Bruce


----------



## eugene13

I was going through an old tool box the other day and found the first thing I made in a lathe. I was a freshman in high school taking a course called "General Metals".  One quarter each of Electricity, Welding, Sheet Metal, and Machine Shop.  I got a B+ on the project, see the square shoulder, I forgot to change tools.  We had to draw file the flats, I got the + because i polished it to a 400 finish.  It's the old story, one shot and you're hooked.


----------



## Titanium Knurler

eugene13 said:


> I was going through an old tool box the other day and found the first thing I made in a lathe. I was a freshman in high school taking a course called "General Metals".  One quarter each of Electricity, Welding, Sheet Metal, and Machine Shop.  I got a B+ on the project, see the square shoulder, I forgot to change tools.  We had to draw file the flats, I got the + because i polished it to a 400 finish.  It's the old story, one shot and you're hooked.



Very nice job and very nice you found it.  I would hang it up in your shop to remind you of what ignited your interest in metalworking and also to remind you of your youth.

I have an old Starrett vernier caliper of my fathers that is probably from when he was a young man.  I have it hanging up above my lathe.  It brings back good memories for me.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i went to the tool/flea market to buy me a tow hook for the 607 i just bought, i found and bought it, then i bought two sets of wipers because it has different size wiper on each side. Then i found this what looks to me like a casting mold for a step pulley, made of aluminium then i found something i recognise, replacement jaws for my lathes chuck. And finally but not least i bought this dolly and put it to use immediately moving couple of engines around the big garage. Funny thing happened, i bought the dolly forgetting that i drove the little niva and there was no space in the trunk so i had to disassemble it and put it in the passenger seat place.


----------



## 7milesup

First, I had to look up "Niva car".   Then I had to look up Macedonia.   Learned two things today.  

Cool find on the little dolly cart.


----------



## GoceKU

7milesup said:


> First, I had to look up "Niva car". Then I had to look up Macedonia. Learned two things today.



Which was harder to find Macedonia or Niva? Both are small.


----------



## 7milesup

GoceKU said:


> Which was harder to find Macedonia or Niva? Both are small.



LOL!!  True, but Google was my friend


----------



## eugene13

Was?


----------



## Titanium Knurler

eugene13 said:


> I was going through an old tool box the other day and found the first thing I made in a lathe. I was a freshman in high school taking a course called "General Metals".  One quarter each of Electricity, Welding, Sheet Metal, and Machine Shop.  I got a B+ on the project, see the square shoulder, I forgot to change tools.  We had to draw file the flats, I got the + because i polished it to a 400 finish.  It's the old story, one shot and you're hooked.




Very nice job and very nice you found it. I would hang it up in your shop to remind you of what ignited your interest in metalworking and also to remind you of your youth.

I have an old Starrett vernier caliper of my father’s that is probably from when he was a young man. I have it hanging up above my lathe. It brings back good memories for me.


----------



## ttabbal

eugene13 said:


> Was?



Google isn't speaking to him anymore after being asked to search for those terms.


----------



## darkzero

Titanium Knurler said:


> Very nice job and very nice you found it. I would hang it up in your shop to remind you of what ignited your interest in metalworking and also to remind you of your youth.
> 
> I have an old Starrett vernier caliper of my father’s that is probably from when he was a young man. I have it hanging up above my lathe. It brings back good memories for me.
> 
> View attachment 312438



Nice!

I need to hang me some peg boards like that. I have no space for things! Hey, I know that box wrench!


----------



## Titanium Knurler

darkzero said:


> Nice!
> 
> I need to hang me some peg boards like that. I have no space for things! Hey, I know that box wrench!



Will, the peg board is thick plastic; spray from the lathe doesn’t stain it and wipes off easily.  It has worked out well so far.

Box wrench!?  Yah, I guess it kind of looks like one, or even an “all sixteenth”.


----------



## darkzero

Titanium Knurler said:


> Will, the peg board is thick plastic; spray from the lathe doesn’t stain it and wipes off easily.  It has worked out well so far.
> 
> Box wrench!?  Yah, I guess it kind of looks like one, or even an “all sixteenth”.



Well that's what they call those wrenches with a closed end, don't know who comes up with these names. My old tool post wrench was an Armstrong open end, those were called "engineer's wrench".  

I was thinking about getting these peg boards but not for sure yet. Still haven't decided what size & orientation though (horizontal vs vertical). Problem I have is I have a piggy back 17 gal air tank behind the lathe.



			https://www.amazon.com/Pegboard-Wall-Control-Galvanized-Steel/dp/B079C25564/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Peg+board&qid=1580694599&sr=8-4


----------



## Titanium Knurler

darkzero said:


> Well that's what they call those wrenches with a closed end, don't know who comes up with these names. My old tool post wrench was an Armstrong open end, those were called "engineer's wrench".
> 
> I was thinking about getting these peg boards but not for sure yet. Still have decided what size & orientation though (horizontal vs vertical).
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Pegboard-Wall-Control-Galvanized-Steel/dp/B079C25564/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Peg+board&qid=1580694599&sr=8-4




Will, I purchased the pegboard from Diamond Life Gear. They have many types, including, black and white plastic, stainless, brushed aluminum, diamond plate...:






						Metal PegBoard Panel for Storage and Display | PegBoard MX™
					

PegBoard MX metal pegboard panel is an all purpose metal pegboard. Load rated, durable and available in many metals such as steel pegboard, diamond plate pegboard, a variety of aluminum colors and much more this pegboard system is very versatile. Use it in your garage, for displays and many...



					diamondlifegear.com
				




This may not be an issue in CA but If you use several sheets you may need to leave a bit of an expansion joint.

Mike


----------



## Titanium Knurler

darkzero said:


> Nice!
> 
> I need to hang me some peg boards like that. I have no space for things! Hey, I know that box wrench!



Will, a little slow here today.  I thought you were referring to the old vernier as a box wrench.  Just realized you meant the QCTP wrench you sold me that is also on the pegboard.


----------



## C-Bag

I bumped into a deal in the welding shop I used to frequent on a close out/intro on a jet 6" grinder with a Mulitool. It been my main grinder for 20yrs but didn't use the belt sander that much. Then DavidR8 mentioned scotchbrite non woven belts for polishing so I got to digging and unfortunately the MultiTool uses a 2x36 belt which kinda proprietary. But then is see this deal on eBay with 4 abrasive belts, a felt belt, 2 disks and 4 buffing sticks for $85. So went for it. My first project was to radius and polish my cheapo body hammers. The hammer on the left is stock, and the one on the right is after. I'm stoked, never done any polishing before. The grinding took a while but the buff was literally minutes. I know, diamond necklace on a pig but sure is shiny!


----------



## darkzero

Wasn't a purchase, not with my own money that is. So to my surprise @mikey & @mmcmdl were up to no good & were scheming against me.   Knowing that I've never owned one for myself, they pitched in together & gifted me my very first Albrecht. Well techincally I purchased a baby one not too long ago but they must have been planning this before I got that.

Dave sent the chuck to Mike & Mike spent time to disassemble & reassemble it to make sure it was in good working order. It looks well used on the outside but it's smooth & has low runout. Been wanting another keyless chuck on a 1/2" shank & this should fill that void.

I can't thank Mike & Dave enough. Totally unexpected & still in shock that they did this for me. I'm very lucky to have them as friends & we are very lucky that they share their great knowledge with us here for us to learn.


----------



## C-Bag

Very cool. Kudos Mike and Dave.


----------



## mikey

One of the first rules of hobby machining is: Thou shalt not be Albrecht-less! 

Will is just a great guy who just happened to have a hole in his tooling and Dave and I decided to fill it. The chuck is used but it is in great shape on the inside, where it counts. I've done enough of these things to know.

My thanks to Dave also. When he heard my idea he stepped right up and bore half the cost without any hesitation. I feel blessed to have been associated with him.


----------



## C-Bag

mikey said:


> who just happened to have a hole in his tooling


?!?!?! That is hard to believe. 

Will's like Batman, he's got ALL the toys!


----------



## mikey

C-Bag said:


> ?!?!?! That is hard to believe.
> 
> Will's like Batman, he's got ALL the toys!



Yes, he does but he has PM drill chucks and me and Dave were just not having it.


----------



## darkzero

C-Bag said:


> ?!?!?! That is hard to believe.
> 
> Will's like Batman, he's got ALL the toys!



 

First time I have heard that before! There are others who have far much more than me & nicer stuff. I can only fit so much in half of a 2 car garage.


----------



## darkzero

mikey said:


> Yes, he does but he has PM drill chucks and me and Dave were just not having it.



Actually my main chuck for the mill is a keyless Glacern followed by a small keyless Italian Jacobs. Also 2 Hartford 14Ns.

For the lathe it's a keyless Bison & a Hartford 14N.

But thank you guys for for curing my Albrecht-less issue!


----------



## mikey

Oh, my mistake. Glacern makes good tools and I'm sure its adequate. However, Albrecht chucks are the gold standard for a reason and it will be good to test them against each other. I like Super Chucks too but to be real honest, I almost never use mine anymore. I went to MT drills on the lathe for stuff over 1/2".


----------



## darkzero

I haven't switched to large MT drills yet. I mainly use the keyed chucks for power tapping but of course with S&D drills too. One of them will find it's way onto my drill press now. Oddly I haven't needed to use drills large than 1/2" in some time. Been using annular cutters more but I don't have a lot of sizes & only good for through holes. I guess I need to find me more projects to work on.


----------



## mmcmdl

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm……………….looks familiar .


----------



## mmcmdl

63 and sunny today is the forecast , get to spend some time in the garage . I"ll see what I " find " today


----------



## middle.road

Piddley scores this weekend. Batch of stuff for $20.
I grabbed the weed-wacker with two 40v batteries and it actually works. Should be good enough for touch-up work.
The blade on the Stanley sureform plane is in decent condition. I took the scale out of the square and put it in one of my many protractor heads.
The white gizmo in the background is some sort of medical suturing device. Should work as a small parts grabber.


----------



## GreatOldOne

I’ll repost this, even though I purchased it a week or so ago, as it was lost in the great forum incident of ‘20. 

Milwaukee die grinder, just released in the uk


Spare batteries for it and my other m12 tools



and some scotch bright and sanding disks.



However I just scored this on eBay; mitutoyo 0-25 digital thread mic with all the metric anvils.


----------



## MrWhoopee

Adjustable parallel set arrived today. The listing said used, but you'd never know. Made in USA for the same price as a set of Chinese.


----------



## darkzero

GreatOldOne said:


> I’ll repost this, even though I purchased it a week or so ago, as it was lost in the great forum incident of ‘20.
> 
> Milwaukee die grinder, just released in the uk
> View attachment 312576
> 
> Spare batteries for it and my other m12 tools
> View attachment 312575
> 
> 
> and some scotch bright and sanding disks.
> View attachment 312573
> View attachment 312574
> 
> However I just scored this on eBay; mitutoyo 0-25 digital thread mic with all the metric anvils.
> View attachment 312577
> View attachment 312578



Nice, I love mine!

They finally just released the straight one for preorder. I've been waiting for this one. Not due to ship till March but like the right angle I'll be waiting till I can get one on sale.


----------



## middle.road

'Devil _Milwaukee M1x Fuel_ get behind me...' I'll have to stick with my corded die grinders for now.   




darkzero said:


> Nice, I love mine!
> 
> They finally just released the straight one for preorder. I've been waiting for this one. Not due to ship till March but like the right angle I'll be waiting till I can get one on sale.
> 
> View attachment 312670


----------



## darkzero

middle.road said:


> 'Devil _Milwaukee M1x Fuel_ get behind me...' I'll have to stick with my corded die grinders for now.



Cordless has replaced most of my air tools, all except my air die grinders. I don't do much heavy grinding anymore so these cordless die grinders are much more convenient for me. My air die grinders still live in a tool box drawer though & I still use them but the air impacts & air ratchets have been stored away now.

In addition to the air hose I don't have to listen to the air compressor much anymore. That thing makes me jump everytime it turns on. Have had my current one for about 10 yrs now & you'd think I'd be used to by now but nope. Haha. I don't even own a corded angle grinder anymore either, my cordless takes care of most eveything.


----------



## GreatOldOne

darkzero said:


> They finally just released the straight one for preorder. I've been waiting for this one. Not due to ship till March but like the right angle I'll be waiting till I can get one on sale.



STOP. MAKING. ME. SPEND. MONEY.


----------



## mmcmdl

I happened to find a Clausing MT4 1/2 to 5C reducer while cleaning out some drawers . I'll have to make a drawtube in the future unless I locate one in the mess .


----------



## HarryJM

Bought a 3 1/2 ton Famco arbor press yesterday from original owner. He purchased it new in the later 70's or early 80's. The ram top is in very good shape with just a few very minor hammer dings which are not that visible. Its stitting on my back porch waiting for me to finish up my 10x14 shed to shop conversion.


----------



## Aukai

Find me one too, that's awesome.


----------



## rwm

SCLCR1212H06 




Came today. $8 on eBay including shipping! May as well be free. Quality is surprisingly good. Highly recommend!
Robert


----------



## mikey

rwm said:


> Came today. $8 on eBay including shipping! May as well be free. Quality is surprisingly good. Highly recommend!
> Robert



Ahh, but did you examine the cutting edges under 15,000X magnification with a Chinese digital scope? You might sing a different tune if you did that, buddy!


----------



## rwm

I examined the cutting edges on my lathe with 304 SS and Aluminum! 
R


----------



## DavidR8

I bought some packing. 











That was hiding a milling attachment for my lathe. 
@Dabbler gets a solid high five from me as being just a decent fellow who knows how to pack a heavy object!
Thanks again!














Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited a local flea/ tool market, the weather is been cold but we just got a 15 degree drop overnight and not many vendars come out. I looked thru and only things i bought was a Clutch disk for a Merc and a big Fan, they ware both cheap and will come in handy.


----------



## finsruskw

New jaws for the D675 showed up in the mail today.
They will replace the pecker pack jaws it came with.
They were on sale, scratch & dent section.
Now I can use one of the small vise stops I made last week!


----------



## middle.road

Well this is going to get me '_flambeaued_' for sure.
Today's score - Super blessing for us. 


Spoiler: Click for -> Cost $$$



We are *lucky*! And hopefully I won't have to mess around much this spring getting a 'mower' to run.  
Friend got transferred out west, no grass, and he's downsizing to a condo. He flew in last night.
House sold here. Has to be cleared out this weekend. 
Just fuel for the truck, and my Honey's and my time...
(and there was all that snow to deal with this morning...)


----------



## Titanium Knurler

Wow, that’s quite a haul.  It looks like there is one, maybe two, Milwaukee rotary hammers.  They can cost up to $600 or so a piece.  I thought the riding mower might be rusted but when I looked more closely I can see it’s in good shape and it’s just some mud. Congrats!


----------



## middle.road

Titanium Knurler said:


> Wow, that’s quite a haul.  It looks like there is one, maybe two, Milwaukee rotary hammers.  They can cost up to $600 or so a piece.  I thought the riding mower might be rusted but when I looked more closely I can see it’s in good shape and it’s just some mud. Congrats!


They are actually Hilti's. The Sawzall is Milwaukee. 
And they couldn't come at a better time, I'm going to need to put a sump hole in the basement after this week's leakage. So they will be put to good use.
Yep, that's mud. Snowed here real heavy this morning and when we took it out of the lower garage we had a devil of a time getting it up to the driveway. ZTR's aren't so good on heavy wet snow.  We haven't had a hard freeze yet this year.


----------



## Titanium Knurler

Everybody seems to be dressing their tools in red these days!  Hilti’s also look like they are pretty pricey. Happy you have an immediate use for them. Great score!

Relatively mild winter here too; ice fisherman are complaining.  Happy no polar vortices this year.


----------



## Aukai

No polar vortex, it's 66* here, forecasted to 63*. Watcha talkn' bout Willis?


----------



## Titanium Knurler

Aukai said:


> No polar vortex, it's 66* here, forecasted to 63*. Watcha talkn' bout Willis?



It must be a boring job being a weatherman in Hawaii.

When I first moved to Wisconsin a friend sent me a list of, “The Twelve Ways You Know You are now in Wisconsin”.  One of them is that you have to use the heater _and_ air conditioner on the same day.  I think anyone that has lived in the Midwest during the change of seasons can confirm that this is not an exaggeration.


----------



## roadie33

Titanium Knurler said:


> It must be a boring job being a weatherman in Hawaii.
> 
> When I first moved to Wisconsin a friend sent me a list of, “The Twelve Ways You Know You are now in Wisconsin”.  One of them is that you have to use the heater _and_ air conditioner on the same day.  I think anyone that has lived in the Midwest during the change of seasons can confirm that this is not an exaggeration.



I verify that it's the same way in Kansas. 
Heat in morning the AC afternoon.


----------



## hman

Here in the Phoenix area, we're facing a *100%* chance of rain Monday (high 67º, low 46º). 

 Gaw-lee, Sarge ... does that mean we're a' gonna get *wet?*


----------



## JimDawson

I haven't bought a new tool of any consequence for quite a while, and I just got paid for a couple of jobs, and the check is in the mail for a couple more, so time for a new tool.  The next project involves some steel fab and I've been wanting one of these for a while.....so.....

Haven't used it yet, just arrived about an hour ago.  We'll see how well it works.  I chose this one because the batteries are the same as the rest of my tools.






						Milwaukee 2781-22 M18 Fuel 4-1/2"/5" Slide, Kit - Power Angle Grinders - Amazon.com
					

Milwaukee 2781-22 M18 Fuel 4-1/2"/5" Slide, Kit - Power Angle Grinders - Amazon.com



					www.amazon.com


----------



## darkzero

JimDawson said:


> I haven't bought a new tool of any consequence for quite a while, and I just got paid for a couple of jobs, and the check is in the mail for a couple more, so time for a new tool.  The next project involves some steel fab and I've been wanting one of these for a while.....so.....
> 
> Haven't used it yet, just arrived about an hour ago.  We'll see how well it works.  I chose this one because the batteries are the same as the rest of my tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milwaukee 2781-22 M18 Fuel 4-1/2"/5" Slide, Kit - Power Angle Grinders - Amazon.com
> 
> 
> Milwaukee 2781-22 M18 Fuel 4-1/2"/5" Slide, Kit - Power Angle Grinders - Amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 313222



Nice! I have the same one, slide switch, I've been happy with mine.


----------



## Titanium Knurler

Very nice, be careful.


----------



## darkzero

Well.... that wouldn't have happened if you weren't wearing a shirt! Just do your grinding naked. Wait that didn't come out right, this is supposed to be a family oriented site. 

Reminds me of this.


----------



## middle.road

Can't watch, nope, not gonna click on 'play'. . .   


darkzero said:


> Well.... that wouldn't have happened if you weren't wearing a shirt! Just do your grinding naked. Wait that didn't come out right, this is supposed to be a family oriented site.
> 
> Reminds me of this.


----------



## JimDawson

darkzero said:


> Well.... that wouldn't have happened if you weren't wearing a shirt! Just do your grinding naked. Wait that didn't come out right, this is supposed to be a family oriented site.
> 
> Reminds me of this.



I'm not even going to comment on that one


----------



## darkzero

Haha, nothing happens in the video. Basically what you see in that thumbnail is it. I wouldn't post anything gorey or extremely cringeworthy, I can't watch those myself.


----------



## middle.road

Along with 'Penn State' above I've got a more expensive 'bad move' story.
I had put on safety glasses and a shield to use my 4-1/2" but I had my new prescription glasses on a strap, dangling.
The sparks pitted the heck out of them. 
Smooth move -EH? Haven't made that mistake again.


----------



## Titanium Knurler

darkzero said:


> Well.... that wouldn't have happened if you weren't wearing a shirt! Just do your grinding naked. Wait that didn't come out right, this is supposed to be a family oriented site.
> 
> Reminds me of this.



Interesting video.  I can't think of a single comment that wouldn't get me kicked off HM.


----------



## pontiac428

Titanium Knurler said:


> Interesting video.  I can't think of a single comment that wouldn't get me kicked off HM.


I thought of quite a few comments... but, as you see, I'm not sharing them.

Okay, maybe one- If I could read lips in Mandarin, I'd guess the child laborer in the background is saying in slo-mo:  What the fff...!


----------



## Aukai

New tool to learn about, I can only wish I can do a decent job learning.....


----------



## middle.road

Joe Pie's video to start with.
And be very careful - do not allow _anything_ to get near the knurling wheels during operation.
And if you need a laugh check out some homebrewed tooling. Then look over @darkzero's posts for his works.


Aukai said:


> New tool to learn about, I can only wish I can do a decent job learning.....


----------



## Aukai

I've seen Will's awesome work, that's inspiring, and intimidating. I'm a total flunky at math, so I'm not sure how this is going to turn out.


----------



## middle.road

Aukai said:


> I've seen Will's awesome work, that's inspiring, and intimidating. I'm a total flunky at math, so I'm not sure how this is going to turn out.


No math. Find some aluminum and chuck it up. Go slow.
All the stuff I did, I didn't bother calculating the diameters. Parts needed to be knurled so they 'got' knurled.


----------



## rwm

What brand knurler is that? I really want to see how you make out with it. Mine is a disaster! Please start a thread with your adventure.
Robert


----------



## darkzero

Aukai said:


> I'm a total flunky at math, so I'm not sure how this is going to turn out.



Me too.  I just use an online calculator. I use this one except I have the formula turned into an app on my phone.

https://littlemachineshop.com/reference/knurler.php

If going for a fully formed knurl on softer materials just have at it. Me personally I always calculate for knurling diameter no matter what. Double tracking bothers me.


----------



## darkzero

rwm said:


> What brand knurler is that? I really want to see how you make out with it. Mine is a disaster! Please start a thread with your adventure.
> Robert



Eagle Rock Knurlcraft K1-44. I use the same one.


----------



## Aukai

Thanks for the link Will. RWM, I'll see what I can do....By guess, and by God


----------



## rwm

Has anyone seen or used the Dorian 3 jaw knurler or equivalent?
Robert


----------



## Titanium Knurler

rwm, I have one.  I like it. If you look at a recent thread here on H-M called:
*Coffee In My Sugar: A Scissor Knurler / Lathe Question*
you will see some photos and a brief discussion of the knurler.  I have limited experience with it but would be happy to answer any questions that I can.  Mike


----------



## GreatOldOne

More starrett goodies.

metric thread gauge



Scribing block (needs a scribe, but should be easy enough to sort something out)





both mucky but a good clean will sort them out.


----------



## finsruskw

Snagged a nice set of Nicholson files off C/L the other day and they arrived today.
No, if I can keep them nice and stored away where they won't get dinged up....


----------



## fitterman1

darkzero said:


> Well.... that wouldn't have happened if you weren't wearing a shirt! Just do your grinding naked. Wait that didn't come out right, this is supposed to be a family oriented site.
> 
> Reminds me of this.


Any boilermaker would instantly recognise a hotbox.
The missus commented on spark erosion waxing.


----------



## Shootymacshootface

My dad just gave me one of those scribe stands. He was a pattern maker in Worcester Ma. He worked on the very first space suites back in the 50's, but only because David Clarke industries subbed out some work. Anywho, that will also make a nice indicator stand with fine adjust.


GreatOldOne said:


> More starrett goodies.
> 
> metric thread gauge
> View attachment 313517
> 
> 
> Scribing block (needs a scribe, but should be easy enough to sort something out)
> View attachment 313518
> View attachment 313519
> View attachment 313520
> 
> 
> both mucky but a good clean will sort them out.


----------



## DavidR8

Picked up a new-to-me toolbox. 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mmcmdl

darkzero said:


> Well.... that wouldn't have happened if you weren't wearing a shirt! Just do your grinding naked. Wait that didn't come out right, this is supposed to be a family oriented site.
> 
> Reminds me of this.




Amazing . She'd surely be written up in here for not wearing proper PPE . No safety glasses .


----------



## stupoty

Titanium Knurler said:


> Very nice, be careful.
> 
> View attachment 313245


I have a pair of trousers that match that slightly burnt hole design


----------



## darkzero

Got me a new shop stool. This one is made by JS Products who makes the same stool & shelving for Dewalt. That's why the base resembles storage racks. I use a $20 HF mechanic's roller but wanted something a bit taller for my work bench. I didn't want the Dewalt yellow one.

Masterforce is a Menards brand but we don't have Menards here on the west coast. The Menards one was supposed to be dark green. On the website they were listed as black. Product page said no shipping to CA but I tried ordering it anyway & it shipped.

Box that it came in showed the dark green but the one I got was grey. I'm happy with that! Any of those colors would have been fine with me as long as it wasn't yellow & didn't say Dewalt on it. Even with shipping it came out cheaper than the Dewalt one. Thing is beefy with nice size casters, I doubt my fat arse can break this one! I'm liking it so far.


----------



## silverhawk

darkzero said:


> Got me a new shop stool. This one is made by JS Products who makes the same stool & shelving for Dewalt. That's why the base resembles storage racks. I use a $20 HF mechanic's roller but wanted something a bit taller for my work bench. I didn't want the Dewalt yellow one.
> 
> Masterforce is a Menards brand but we don't have Menards here on the west coast. The Menards one was supposed to be dark green. On the website they were listed as black. Product page said no shipping to CA but I tried ordering it anyway & it shipped.
> 
> Box that it came in showed the dark green but the one I got was grey. I'm happy with that! Any of those colors would have been fine with me as long as it wasn't yellow & didn't say Dewalt on it. Even with shipping it came out cheaper than the Dewalt one. Thing is beefy with nice size casters, I doubt my fat arse can break this one! I'm liking it so far.
> 
> View attachment 313644


If I lived in the eastern midwest, I would definitely be buying one of the masterforce 56" green bottom tool boxes. It's the closest match to my old green craftsman, and would be large enough to hold my wooden tool boxes. They look fabulous and sturdy. That stool looks pretty stout. I look forward to feedback from you on it 

joe


----------



## Liljoebrshooter

Just got home from picking this thing up locally.  I found it on the auction site and noticed it was only about 15 miles away.
It will match my mill nicely.
Not a single hole drilled in the top, that is amazing.


----------



## Liljoebrshooter

I also found all of these at the same place. They are all new and good quality.  Not bad for $4.50 each.  I am planning on going back and looking through the rest of what they have.
The ones in the boxes are woodruff key seat cutters.
Joe


----------



## Aukai

Nice score!!!


----------



## finsruskw

Guess I'm committed at this point.
Or maybe I should be committed!!
Showed up on my doorstep this AM.
Stuff for a lathe I do not even have yet!!


----------



## darkzero

No thanks to @mikey & @mmcmdl that gave me the Albrecht bug I bought me another Albrecht. I was doing just fine avoiding spending money on Albrechts. But noooo these guys just had to make sure I no longer would be Albrecht-less. Just joking of course. I am very thankful & will never forget. 

1/2" capacity, mint condition & came mounted on a mint old Jacobs arbor made in England. Can tell it's an older one cause the markings are stamped instead of etched.






Ebay score on a couple of NOS Dorian BXA holders. These are the older ones that are sized normally, 5/8" max, that I like. None of the newer extreme oversized holders that I'm not a fan of.




My TMX R8 finally showed up today to replace my old generic ones.


----------



## mikey

Wow, Christmas came early this year, Will. That chuck looks brand new, as does the arbor. Very nice scores, buddy!


----------



## darkzero

Thank you Mike!


----------



## eugene13

My son bought a present for the shop, it's a Starrett, but made in China, metric and standard, has a reverce reading function, works nice and repeats to zero.


----------



## 682bear

A friend of mine gifted me this...







I just had to drive 114 miles round trip to pick it up... and stopped on the way home to buy this...




...just so I could get the surface plate off my truck!

The plate is 24x24x6 inches... and it is heavy...

-Bear


----------



## Stonebriar

I need to let Will do my shopping and send the stuff to my house.


----------



## eugene13

Sweet


----------



## darkzero

Finally got the RA die grinder boot today that was on preorder since Oct. Fits nice just like all their other boots.


----------



## Logan 400

I finally won a bid on a decent keyway broach set. It arrived today and seems to be in nice condition. Dumont brand.


Thanks for looking.
Jay


----------



## mmcmdl

You'll like them Jay .


----------



## Dhal22

Don't have a mill yet but bought a budget vice on eBay to see what goes into a heavier vice.  I'll mount it on my drill press and drill something to play around with it.  This thing weighs 20 lbs I'm guessing.  I can put it back on eBay when I'm ready for a Kurt vice.


----------



## DavidR8

Bought me one of these today. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dhal22

Probably a few more dollars than mine cost......


----------



## DavidR8

Dhal22 said:


> Probably a few more dollars than mine cost......



That sucking sound you hear? Yeah that’s my wallet being emptied. 
(Less than a Kurt mind you)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mikey

Wrong color!


----------



## darkzero

DavidR8 said:


> Bought me one of these today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Now you need one of these! Just saying.  









						VISE SPEED HANDLE 9/16  (.563) HEX  FOR 4 INCH VISES LIKE MOST POPULAR BRANDS  | eBay
					

WILL FIT ANY VISE WITH A 9/16 HEX DRIVE MOSTLY 4" VISES. VISE IN PICTURES NOT INCLUDED. PATENTED HANDLE DESIGN patent # US D517.382S.



					www.ebay.com
				











						2 Position Vise Handle 56-000, 57-000, 50-000
					

The 2 Position Vise Handle by Edge Technology is a great alternative to the standard handle that comes with most vises. Our handle is smaller, faster and much more ergonomic. It provides the correct amount of leverage for clamping most work pieces. It also has a thumb knob that allows the handle...




					www.edgetechnologyproducts.com


----------



## mikey

The red one for the 4" is really nice!


----------



## mmcmdl

I have a red one for the Kurt but never use it .


----------



## mikey

How is it that the one for a 4"vise is almost double that for a 6"vise?


----------



## mmcmdl

I guess they are rarer ?  Maybe they're taking aim on the hobby machinists ?


----------



## darkzero

It's cause the 9/16" one is only available in the red. The black is $20 but only available for 3/4". 3/4" red is $35 too.


----------



## mmcmdl

That's some expensive red anodize !


----------



## darkzero

Heck try finding one in 5/8" hex for 5" vises. So hard to find now! Luckily I got mine when I did.


----------



## Aukai

I like my Ebay handles....


----------



## darkzero

mmcmdl said:


> That's some expensive red anodize !



It's probably due to the hydro dipping, laser etching, or however that logo is applied.


----------



## mmcmdl

Aukai said:


> I like my Ebay handles....



Me too ! But .......................are they patented ?  I can't see how anyone could patent a wrench thats been around for 50 years .


----------



## darkzero

mmcmdl said:


> I can't see how anyone could patent a wrench thats been around for 50 years .



Haha seriously. I have seen so many different sellers on ebay selling these claiming to be the original maker for them. There even used to be 2 sellers that listed each others ebay names stating the other guy was selling copies/fakes. Seems like all the sellers eventually stop selling/making them & new sellers/makers later pop up. They all just change the shape slightly.

At least Edge Technology tried to be a bit more innovating & added a locking thumbscrew & magnet for storage.


----------



## mmcmdl

Everything I " store " eventually gets lost .  But cleaning up once in a while cheers me up , I find brand new stuff that was lost !


----------



## darkzero

Haha! I'm usually pretty good at not loosing things in my home shop. I "put away" my only 5/8" carbide end mill once & couldn't find the damn thing. I was starting to think that I was crazy & never had one. Eventually I bought another one. Then over 2 yrs later I found it in my box of acid brushes. How it got in there I have no idea to this day.

I've never seen where the magnet is on the Edge speed handle but I think it' s on the back just so you can stick the handle onto something metal when not in use. I just leave my handle on the vise. Mine fits tight & doesn't slide around,  it has never rattled off. I like it that way.


----------



## mmcmdl

Will , just had a LOL reading an old thread of yours . It ended up us talking about Kroil and Knockerloose . I probably can't find it again , but it was a good one .


----------



## darkzero

I don't remember a Kroil thread. Had to go search for it & found it. Haha. Man there must be so many threads over the years that I don't remember at all. I'm sure I'm not the only one.


----------



## Aukai

Halfheimers, and it has something to do with TMB.


----------



## GreatOldOne

A starrett machinist jack. A 190, I believe.


----------



## mikey

Looks unused. Love the color case hardening Starrett did back in the day.


----------



## GreatOldOne

Jacobs No14 Super Chuck. Should compliment my Albrechts nicely. 





Need to replace the MT4 arbour with an MT2 one. Anyone know off hand what the taper is?


----------



## Nogoingback

My old Jacobs catalog shows a 3JT for the 14N chucks.


----------



## DavidR8

Found this old RF-115 model saw.
A bit rough but for $100 I thought why not.


----------



## darkzero

DavidR8 said:


> Found this old RF-115 model saw.
> A bit rough but for $100 I thought why not.
> View attachment 314716



Nice score. I had an Enco branded RF-128, not sure what the difference is with the RF-115 but it looks similar. I also paid $100 but I got lucky & mine was in really nice condition. You did well, should clean up nice. I've seen HF saws in much worse condition go for much more than $100 around here.

It was a great saw that I miss. Lots of mods people have done on these & they still make em so parts shouldn't be an issue if you ever need. Here's one thread that I started to give you ideas but there are other threads here too.









						Enco / RF-128 4x6 Bandsaw Mods
					

When I got my first mini lathe I quickly learned that cutting bar stock with the strong arm method was not going to last long. I was going to pick a HF bandsaw until my buddy found me a used bandsaw locally an Enco 4x6 which is a RF-128, made in Tawain. It was practically never used, just sat in...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## DavidR8

Thanks Will!


----------



## darkzero

GreatOldOne said:


> Jacobs No14 Super Chuck. Should compliment my Albrechts nicely.
> 
> View attachment 314681
> View attachment 314682
> 
> 
> Need to replace the MT4 arbour with an MT2 one. Anyone know off hand what the taper is?



Nice. I've aways wondered if there was a difference between the older No.14 & 14N chucks. Now I see the difference, thanks for posting those pics.


----------



## Winegrower

I could not resist the indexing dividing head, this one:
I hope the quality is reasonable.
It's due on Monday Mar. 2nd.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Ordered, should arrive in a day or three. I don't know if they are 5C or R8, I suspect R8. Didn't really need them though they _can_ be used. But it looked like a good price, too good to pass up. $12 bux, what can I say?



.


----------



## pontiac428

@Winegrower You won't be disappointed.  It isn't the fit and finish of an actual B&S, but it's proven to be a useful and capable tool just the same.


----------



## Titanium Knurler

Bi11Hudson said:


> Ordered, should arrive in a day or three. I don't know if they are 5C or R8, I suspect R8. Didn't really need them though they _can_ be used. But it looked like a good price, too good to pass up. $12 bux, what can I say?
> View attachment 314740
> 
> 
> .


Looks like R8 to me. Amazing price, just over a buck piece!


----------



## Ulma Doctor

I'm in the large swing club now!

I bought it today, i pick up later in the week! 

Victor 2040 with DRO


----------



## Winegrower

Congrats, Ulma Dr.   I tried really hard to find a Victor 1640, but no luck.   Please post some about this as you get going?


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Ulma Doctor said:


> I'm in the large swing club now!
> 
> I bought it today, i pick up later in the week!
> 
> Victor 2040 with DRO



wow, congrats! How many lathes is that now? If you ever need to make space.....


----------



## Ulma Doctor

Winegrower said:


> Congrats, Ulma Dr.   I tried really hard to find a Victor 1640, but no luck.   Please post some about this as you get going?


hi @Winegrower,
this lathe came up a couple times when i was searching, then it would disappear-
it came up again with a lower price, so i took half a day off work to go and view it .
i'll be sure to post pics and projects.



mattthemuppet2 said:


> wow, congrats! How many lathes is that now? If you ever need to make space.....


Hi Matt,
thank you very much!
that makes (EDIT: ) 10 lathes and 2 Unimats (if you wanna call them lathes)
i had to get rid of something (my shopsmith ) as a prerequisite for acquiring another piece of equipment.

my rule now (as hard as it was to swallow),
is to sell or donate a piece of equipment, BEFORE i purchase another machine for which i can't live without any longer


----------



## darkzero

Ulma Doctor said:


> that makes 9 lathes and 2 Unimats (if you wanna call them lathes)



Mike is gonna become a machinery dealer soon. I know where I'm going the next time I need to buy a machine!


----------



## Joeman77

DavidR8 said:


> Found this old RF-115 model saw.
> A bit rough but for $100 I thought why not.
> View attachment 314716


Good Find!
 I had one very similar for years, cut a lot of material with it, until I got the itch for something bigger & better. But thinking back a few years (of course after I got rid of the old one) I'm not sure bigger is always better, sometimes just more expensive to feed!


----------



## Ianagos

Ulma Doctor said:


> my rule now (as hard as it was to swallow),
> is to sell or donate a piece of equipment, BEFORE i purchase another machine for which i can't live without any longer



I just made my self a similar rule. But selling is so difficult and I keep seeing good deals...








Picked up something else for the shop...
As you can see not much space as it is.

I want to buy a 5 axis trunnion for my mill next.


----------



## darkzero

Got me a couple of more new indexable tools. Well I already have these same exact ones, just got tired of swapping inserts for different materials. I have doubles for my other most used tools, these were the last ones that I wanted for doubles.




My doubles




Ebay score on some rolls of tape. Yeah I know, just tape but this 3M speciality tape costs $50 a roll in this size. Always wanted a roll this size but no way I was going to pay that much for one. Found an odd listing for $11 shipped a roll. Listing title matched, but the description was for ziplock baggies, & the description details said 1" wide instead of 2". Same seller had another odd listing but 5 rolls for $33 shipped. Took a chance & bought the 5 rolls for $33, sure enough they were the right ones. Woohoo!


----------



## mikey

Hey, where are the HSS tools?


----------



## darkzero

They're in another drawer in indexes, they only make holes though.   The other few went with the mini lathe to my lil brother. I think the only tools I have now that mount on my tool post with HSS are my knurling tools, the rest not pictured are all carbide too.


----------



## mikey

Well now, Will, we have to fix that for sure. You think those carbide tools are all that, eh? One of these days we need to put our heads together to see what you need and I'll grind some tools for you to try. Then we'll see ...


----------



## darkzero

Most of what I make on the lathe is titanium so yes, for that I won't bother with HSS. I tried them on Ti didn't last long. I'm also not that experienced with grinding tool bits. The few HSS tools I had I made at the local community college on their grinder. My bench grinder at home sucks but I do have a somewhat decent belt grinder now. I keep telling myself I may try HSS again for aluminum but I guess I'm too lazy. Really I have no interest. I actually bid on a lot of NOS Latrobe blanks not too long ago but went for more than I wanted to pay. I have so many inserts that I have paid $1-$3 ea when there were crazy deals on ebay that I seriously may not have to buy inserts for my most used tools for the next 20+ yrs.


----------



## Ianagos

darkzero said:


> Most of what I make on the lathe is titanium so yes, for that I won't bother with HSS. I tried them on Ti didn't last long. I'm also not that experienced with grinding tool bits. The few HSS tools I had I made at the local community college on their grinder. My bench grinder at home sucks but I do have a somewhat decent belt grinder now. I keep telling myself I may try HSS again for aluminum but I guess I'm too lazy. Really I have no interest. I actually bid on a lot of NOS Latrobe blanks not too long ago but went for more than I wanted to pay. I have so many inserts that I have paid $1-$3 ea when there were crazy deals on ebay that I seriously may not have to buy inserts for my most used tools for the next 20+ yrs.





Sharpened carbide probably does pretty good but I’ve heard of honed hss doing pretty good it titanium.

I need to get more lathe tooling at some point. I got a manual lathe and tons of tooling for that. But bought a Mazak cnc and need to get it fully tooled up. What brand tool holders do you buy?


----------



## darkzero

Ianagos said:


> Sharpened carbide probably does pretty good but I’ve heard of honed hss doing pretty good it titanium.
> 
> I need to get more lathe tooling at some point. I got a manual lathe and tons of tooling for that. But bought a Mazak cnc and need to get it fully tooled up. What brand tool holders do you buy?



It's not necessarily only the performance of HSS as to why I choose not to use it. They do work on Ti but the life is not as long before needing to re-hone or sharpen. Being indexable plays a big part of it. Swap an insert & I can quickly be back to machining without loosing track. I also have tool offsets set for many of my tools & recorded for certain operations for some of the items I was making on a regular basis. Some of my form/grooving tools I rely on their shape being consistent in size for my recorded measurments. Indexable tools are much more convenient & quicker to use for me.

I haven't actually set tool offsets in my DRO yet but plan on it. I'm not a CNC guy. I'm also just a hobbyist so I may not always do things conventionally but my methods for keeping track of tooling & how I use them works for me.

The ones I just purchased there are pics above. A number of my tools are Dorian that I got from the local Travers but I use holders from various common name brands. Brands don't matter to much as long as they are good quality.


----------



## Ianagos

darkzero said:


> It's not necessarily only the performance of HSS as to why I choose not to use it. They do work on Ti but the life is not as long before needing to re-hone or sharpen. Being indexable plays a big part of it. Swap an insert & I can quickly be back to machining without loosing track. I also have tool offsets set for many of my tools & recorded for certain operations for some of the items I was making on a regular basis. Some of my form/grooving tools I rely on their shape being consistent in size for my recorded measurments. Indexable tools are much more convenient & quicker to use for me.
> 
> I haven't actually set tool offsets in my DRO yet but plan on it. I'm not a CNC guy. I'm also just a hobbyist so I may not always do things conventionally but my methods for keeping track of tooling & how I use them works for me.
> 
> The ones I just purchased there are pics above. A number of my tools are Dorian that I got from the local Travers but I use holders from various common name brands. Brands don't matter to much as long as they are good quality.



Gotcha and I fully understand your using insert carbide tools. I also use them and in most cases carbide is better. I also have some hss ccmt inserts for my manual lathe. They are easily honed and left better finishes when I was turning a stainless barrel. My manual lathe also is slower rpms then carbide likes. I think max rpm is 1500 but around 800 it gets pretty loud so I don’t go over that much.

I have random holders and several cheap Chinese ones at the moment. They work but fit and finish is rough. Not sure I’d trust them in the cnc.

I also see the brand now that I looked a little closer. Thank you for the clarification though.


----------



## Aukai

I would like to thank MrWhoopee for all the work he does for putting up what he finds for us online. I have one of these, and I saw this and remembered ball turning, so I got this for a 100 dollars. I'm sure SPI HSS is not a top tier name brand for boring bars, but good enough to practice with


----------



## darkzero

Ianagos said:


> Gotcha and I fully understand your using insert carbide tools. I also use them and in most cases carbide is better. I also have some hss ccmt inserts for my manual lathe. They are easily honed and left better finishes when I was turning a stainless barrel. My manual lathe also is slower rpms then carbide likes. I think max rpm is 1500 but around 800 it gets pretty loud so I don’t go over that much.
> 
> I have random holders and several cheap Chinese ones at the moment. They work but fit and finish is rough. Not sure I’d trust them in the cnc.
> 
> I also see the brand now that I looked a little closer. Thank you for the clarification though.



I may try HSS again someday, I haven't on my current lathe yet. Mainly I want to make some form tools & trepanning tools.

My lathe is about the same 1400 max speed on the pulleys I normally use. With a belt change it can go 1800 max but I rarely use that pulley position. Can’t make full use of carbide to it's potential on smaller diameters but what I use is satisfactory to me. I use mostly positive inserts & high positive ground inserts for finishing.

I think I own like one 1 or 2 China insert holders but rarely use them so I don't have much experience with them long term. I'm sure they work fine though. I just figured to buy better ones from the start as I heard some of the economy ones aren't hardened well & the insert seats can wear out. I bought mostly Dorian holders over the years, again cause I could get them locally & they weren't expensive, like $50 a piece. Price has gone up though but it's been some years since I last purchased one. The same Dorian holder I just bought from the same vendor now costs $70.


----------



## mikey

Dorian makes some nice tools, no question about that. I sometimes wonder how good those Chinese tool holders are but never bought one to find out. Mine are Seco and Iscar and they are very good.


----------



## darkzero

Thinking about it the only 2 China holders I own is a Shars parting/grooving tool (not blade) that uses GTL/N/R inserts. I rarely use it cause I don't like that insert style. Funny thing is it's red, like it looks like anodized red. I always thought steel couldn't be anodized.

The other is from Grizzly IIRC that uses round inserts. It's one of the cutters I use in my fly cutters with a RCGT insert. I've only used it less than a handful of times.

Since these rarely get used I think they should be ok as far as not wearing out quick. If not, I don't really care.   

But now a days them China holders sure are cheap. I've seen them on ebay for like $15 w/ a pack of 10 inserts & shipping included! I won't try one. I have no need for anymore anyways.


----------



## mmcmdl

Lanagos .Is the Mazak a slant bed ? I used strictly Valenite and Kennemetal holders and inserts in the Makino cnc . What size holders does you turret take ?


----------



## Ianagos

mmcmdl said:


> Lanagos .Is the Mazak a slant bed ? I used strictly Valenite and Kennemetal holders and inserts in the Makino cnc . What size holders does you turret take ?



It is a slant bed. It’s a SQT-18ms not sure what size tool holders off the top of my head Ill have to figure that out. Does use vdi 40 holders so I can switch sizes aswell.


----------



## mmcmdl

Hm...…...I may have some things for vdi mounts . Bar puller etc .


----------



## Ianagos

mmcmdl said:


> Hm...…...I may have some things for vdi mounts . Bar puller etc .



If you have any you are interested in getting rid of let me know.


----------



## Z2V

A couple weeks back I purchased a new set of Stevenson’s collet blocks. I went to use one for the first time the other day and realized I had ER-32 blocks to use with my ER-40 collets. A new set of ER-40 blocks arrived yesterday.
If anybody would like to take advantage of my mistake, shoot me a PM.


----------



## Z2V

That was quick and easy. Thanks David


----------



## Dhal22

Z2V said:


> That was quick and easy. Thanks David




I can guess as to which David..............................  It isn't me...


----------



## DavidR8

Dhal22 said:


> I can guess as to which David.............................. It isn't me...



Oh oh, I think I might be getting a reputation 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

NVD!
(New vise day!)











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mikey

Nice!!!


----------



## Dhal22

DavidR8 said:


> NVD!
> (New vise day!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Another one (Glacern)?


----------



## DavidR8

Dhal22 said:


> Another one (Glacern)?



No just one. It actually arrived today 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## darkzero

DavidR8 said:


> NVD!
> (New vise day!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Here's a tip, sort of. 

Keep the large piece of foam. I kept mine & is what I use to set my vise on when it's not on the mill table to protect the bottom. Provides a nice cushion too for when I flip the vise upside down to wipe the bottom surface before putting it back on the mill. Yeah maybe a bit bulky for that use but it works for me & it cost nothing.


----------



## DavidR8

darkzero said:


> Here's a tip, sort of.
> 
> Keep the large piece of foam. I kept mine & is what I use to set my vise on when it's not on the mill table to protect the bottom. Provides a nice cushion too for when I flip the vise upside down to wipe the bottom surface before putting it back on the mill. Yeah maybe a bit bulky for that use but it works for me & it cost nothing.


Excellent tip Will!


----------



## Winegrower

So the dividing head came today.  Pontiac428 really called this right.   It is quite well made...every surface of any importance for function or appearance is surface ground, or some technique that looks the same.   It looks exactly like the pictures below.   I recently used a friend’s Ellis dividing head, which is a well designed unit, but the import seems at least as good...plus has a tailstock and a few accessories.  There is just a light oil on it, that wipes off easily.     

I am well pleased with this purchase, especially at $239 w/ free shipping.




Winegrower said:


> I could not resist the indexing dividing head, this one:
> I hope the quality is reasonable.
> It's due on Monday Mar. 2nd.
> View attachment 314727


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Not real sure what this contraption even is. But the price was low enough to get one to find out. It supposedly fits on the end of a motor shaft and has an ER-16 collet chuck. The shaft size is small, I guess because of the ER-16 end, 3/8"/10mm it looks like. I wouldn't trust it at any speed, the set screw will throw it way out of balance. But, to sit on the shelf to make some future unknown device, for a couple of bux, it looks like a keeper.


----------



## GreatOldOne

I clearly have a chuck fetish just picked up these of eBay; a brace of cardinals. One 1/4”, one 3/4”. I also have another no 14 on the way as well.


----------



## silverhawk

Bi11Hudson said:


> Not real sure what this contraption even is. But the price was low enough to get one to find out. It supposedly fits on the end of a motor shaft and has an ER-16 collet chuck. The shaft size is small, I guess because of the ER-16 end, 3/8"/10mm it looks like. I wouldn't trust it at any speed, the set screw will throw it way out of balance. But, to sit on the shelf to make some future unknown device, for a couple of bux, it looks like a keeper.
> View attachment 315024


I bought something similar (an er16 collet) for my really old wood lathe. The wood lathe was built in 1939, and runs fabulous. The spindle is a 3/4-16, but it is about that size. I think that is for a wood lathe. Id never use an er16 on a metal lathe (too small), but I've also been known to be wrong. 

joe


----------



## Z2V

Not hobby related but my wife surprised me with a new 27” iMac, 9th gen i5, 2 TB.  A huge difference from the 14” laptop I’ve used for the last 12 yrs. I now have no excuse for not getting taxes done real soon. She made sure I got TurboTax before we returned home. What a great gal!!


----------



## DavidR8

That's a beaut @Z2V


----------



## Bi11Hudson

silverhawk said:


> I bought something similar (an er16 collet) for my really old wood lathe. The wood lathe was built in 1939, and runs fabulous. The spindle is a 3/4-16, but it is about that size. I think that is for a wood lathe. Id never use an er16 on a metal lathe (too small), but I've also been known to be wrong.
> joe



It is ostensibly for a metal/wood working motor using metal working collets. Maybe even a non-standard router. But the idea of spinning that thing that fast scares me. It can't be balanced at those speeds. BUT I also have, well Wife does now,  a Craftsman from 1939. I didn't know what its' ancestry was when I bought it($35?), just a nice looking wood lathe cheap. When I remarried(3rd), Wife cleaned off the old paint and found the nameplate. Following up on the part number was quite a revelation. A freakin' antique~~~

The idea of using ER-16 collets on the wood working machines never occured to me. But it looks promising. For the price, it might behoove me to order a couple more. I bought a (used) ShopSmith for Wife a few years back. It uses a 5/8" nub for the main drive. An ER-25 holder is also available, with a 5/8 drive hole. The possibilities look limitless. *Thanx very much* for that!!

As an aside, much of my work is with models of 1/8":1ft. Well, a fuzz larger, H-O at 1:87.5. I do have large tooling but most of my tooling is for tiny stuff. A 1/2" fastener is huge, quite often used as the worm in a reduction gear. An #0-80 machine screw is mid sized. The ER-16s serve me well.

.


----------



## Shootymacshootface

Got this off of the ebay yesterday. It turned out to be a machine tool wholesaler 2 towns over, less than 20 min away. I contacted them and picked it up. I saved over $90 in shipping which made this a true bargan. It is a Kurt D675 in pretty decent shape.




Now I have a new resource for finding new tools. They are a broker with locations in NJ and PA as well. Today they sold a Hardange CNC turning center for $3450 that my son and I were seriously considering. There will be others.


----------



## mmcmdl

I got cornered in at work this morning .  I had to order a " smart phone " for work over the computer . Some kind of Apple XR 11 thing . I kept telling them I would break it in a week , but they said who cares , the company buys them everyday . I told the wife and she just rolled her eyes !    But hey , I figure I can keep Will's comedy thread going for a full year or two trying to become tech savvy with this phone .


----------



## Janderso

Another EBay find.


----------



## jwmelvin

I ordered a few things last week and the USPS didn’t exactly treat the box very well:






It contained only one of the items I had ordered. After an email and call to LMS, they had a new one on the way that same day and I now have a few things to continue my learning: a 3” screwless vise, 2-flute M42 endmill, set of HSS boring bars, Noga-style indicator base, and some AXA tool holders. A few other recent additions made the picture.


----------



## Superburban

jwmelvin said:


> I ordered a few things last week and the USPS didn’t exactly treat the box very well:
> 
> 
> It contained only one of the items I had ordered.


I have had lots of boxes arrive like that. I gave up buying ebay auctions with many tools. No matter how much I would stress good packaging, I would get boxes like you showed. My Wife keeps joking that someone working in the Denver sorting facility, has one heck of a good tool collection. At least you are still getting what you ordered. Kinda sucks to get a good deal, only to have none of it show up, and I get a refund instead.


----------



## Superburban

Actually picked this up at a yard sale yesterday. A late 40's vintage Craftsman 8" table saw. with a 1/2 HP delta motor. I'm a sucker for old cast iron tools, even if it is a woodworking tool (I certainly did not need another table saw). After looking at it today, I think it would be nice to have a small table saw in the shop, and this will fit right in with the rest of the old tools in the shop.


----------



## Superburban

Oh yea, the other thing that drew my attention, was the price. Sign said $20, but as I was looking at it, the seller said I could take it for $10. I tried to stay calm, and say ok.


----------



## Shootymacshootface

Superburban said:


> Oh yea, the other thing that drew my attention, was the price. Sign said $20, but as I was looking at it, the seller said I could take it for $10. I tried to stay calm, and say ok.


YOU SUCK!!! But, nice score! I have a full size Delta, that I was told was WW2 surplus. Its taking up some very precious space in my garage. I might use it only once or twice a year if that. I need to down size, but I am 100% sure that I need a capable table saw.


----------



## byang578

bought a south bend 9" lathe with 4 boxes of tooling today.  I'm totally stoked!


----------



## Shootymacshootface

byang578 said:


> bought a south bend 9" lathe with 4 boxes of tooling today.  I'm totally stoked!


Very awesome! I got my first lathe when I was well into my 40's. It has become my favorite tool of all time. Now I don't think that I could live without one. You will find more uses for that one machine than you ever thought possible. 
Pictures or it didn't happen!


----------



## MontanaLon

Picked up a used Kurt 4" vise. My 3" import will be relegated to duties where I absolutely need the swivel and the lack of accuracy won't be a detriment.

It has a few character marks but looks to be in good condition. Will be looking to collect or make some jaws for it along with a set of keys to go to the table.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Patience will pay off in the long run, most times. 

I had a copy of AutoCAD, Ver 2005, for years. Whenever the drive crashed, I would just reload it and copy my version of the *.mnu file back in. This last time the disk (CD/DVD) had a bad sector(?) and wouldn't reload. I thrashed around for a while and then set the thought aside. Downloaded versions of *current* CAD are available from Amazon. But no hard copy versions and nothing as old as what I have. 

Then too, I was using WinDoze XP and that will no longer function on line. All the newer machines come set up with WinDoze 10 and my older version of CAD is incompatable with with anything newer than XP.  Quite a dilemma~~~

The biggest problems? I'm self taught and after a half dozen strokes, my mind isn't as good as it used to be. I'm too old and too busy to relearn a newer version. Maybe not so busy as too slow now. Not that long a learning curve, but my mind isn't good for it any more. There are a few downsides to retirement.

Anyway, I found a *hard copy* of AutoCAD, through Amazon though they weren't the seller. ACAD 2006, it can use the older command structure and *.mnu file. So no relearning, just the miscellaneous set-ups that I use. It wasn't cheap cheap, but inexpensive enough that I jumped on it. With both feet~~~ Best of all, the program is native to XP but will run on newer versions of WinDoze. So I can use it on my older Toshibas *AND* the newer Dell 64 bit machine. Better there than my ACAD 2005. I like~~~ Now if I can just get the mapping extensions back up~~~

I don't use 3D all that much, doing mostly electrical drafting and sketches that I can have the program do fairly exact measurments from. But as a non-commercial user, it means a lot to me to be able to *accurately* sketch up ideas and save a copy to my hard drive. And print. And read copies of *.dwg files that come my way.

.


----------



## DavidR8

Arrived home to a nice package of MT3 collets and a MT3 drill chuck and MT3–>MT2 adapter. 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

Got this today. And 89 more just like it


----------



## francist

I love those things. I mean, things just _need_ to be sorted.... 

-f


----------



## Dhal22

DavidR8 said:


> Got this today. And 89 more just like it




I bought over 400 of those a couple of years ago,  all sizes.   They were 2 miles from my shop and it took many trips to get them all.   $1 each!


----------



## Aaron_W

Technically I bought it Wednesday, but I just rolled it into the shop tonight, I'm going to Level Up my Machinery Tetris!   

Atlas 7B shaper, heavy little guy but looks to be all there and fully functional, just needs a bit of cleaning. No stand and the vise has been replaced with a screwless type. I found an older post for making a scraper vise, so one more thing added to the project list. 

I'll fabricate a stand based on photos I've seen of the Atlas stand with storage in the base.


----------



## DavidR8

Dhal22 said:


> I bought over 400 of those a couple of years ago, all sizes. They were 2 miles from my shop and it took many trips to get them all. $1 each!



Sweet deal!


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----------



## GreatOldOne

Just scored this on eBay, going to collect tonight as it's only down the road from me. 10 ton hydraulic bench press. Allegedly Sealey branded, but who cares for the price I paid. Table support pins will get remade, it's mucky as hell and I need to do some metal bashing on the frame and table but other than its supposed to be good.


----------



## Superburban

GreatOldOne said:


> Table support pins will get remade, it's mucky as hell and I need to do some metal bashing on the frame and table but other than its supposed to be good.
> 
> View attachment 316116


I would also suggest rotating the table 90 degs, like it is supposed to sit.  Cool score, better then trying to deal with the bottle jack style.


----------



## DavidR8

Technically I bought this yesterday. 
A 48” x 36” sheet of 1/4” 6061
Plus a bunch of odds and sods of 6061; 
One wrist pin from something huge. Thrown in for good measure. 








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----------



## Shootymacshootface

DavidR8 said:


> Nice work.
> I might copy yours.
> Thinking about 1/2” thick aluminum handle with sockets pressed into undersized holes.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





DavidR8 said:


> Technically I bought this yesterday.
> A 48” x 36” sheet of 1/4” 6061
> Plus a bunch of odds and sods of 6061;
> One wrist pin from something huge. Thrown in for good measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Good score! You will need carbide tooling to make anything out of that wrist pin.


----------



## DavidR8

Shootymacshootface said:


> Good score! You will need carbide tooling to make anything out of that wrist pin.



Thanks! I think that long piece has a vise wrench hidden inside 


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----------



## Shootymacshootface

DavidR8 said:


> Thanks! I think that long piece has a vise wrench hidden inside
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You just have to cut away the unneeded bits to uncover it.


----------



## DavidR8

Shootymacshootface said:


> You just have to cut away the unneeded bits to uncover it.



Just like Michelangelo! 


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----------



## Ianagos

GreatOldOne said:


> Just scored this on eBay, going to collect tonight as it's only down the road from me. 10 ton hydraulic bench press. Allegedly Sealey branded, but who cares for the price I paid. Table support pins will get remade, it's mucky as hell and I need to do some metal bashing on the frame and table but other than its supposed to be good.



Just like someone above said you should put the table on correctly. Looks like the last user didn’t exactly know how it was supposed to work.


----------



## GreatOldOne

Ianagos said:


> Just like someone above said you should put the table on correctly. Looks like the last user didn’t exactly know how it was supposed to work.



That pic is from the eBay listing, where the seller had the press in storage. When I went to pick it up the table was in the correct orientation. I don’t know how the table got bent like that, but the bottom cross members are twisted as well. It won’t take a lot to clean up and get straightened up.


----------



## finsruskw

User abuse and ignorance!


----------



## GreatOldOne

I’ve spent the last hour or so fixing the pressure gauge - it was losing the glycerine from inside the case. Oh, and the leak / bad seal the seller mentioned? It’s a completely missing sealing washer between the gauge and the top of the cylinder. It’s pennies to fix.


----------



## DavidR8

DRO, end mills and v-blocks showed up today. 











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----------



## Z2V

I’ll be watching for your DRO install thread.


----------



## GreatOldOne

New sealing washer for the press (£0.44), and some hydraulic fluid. 

It's amazing how well it keeps fluid in the system now that there's a washer between the gauge and the cylinder. BTW repairs to the gauge are good and holding, glycerine is no longer weeping out the bottom where the brass threaded section comes through the gauge case.


----------



## middle.road

DON'T GO INTO THE CHARITY THRIFT STORE!
Walked in the front door and there on a lunch room sized table was grandpa's shop tools.
Looked like someone cleaned out his shop and took it to the store. 
Found a live center. Talking with the young guy at the cashier's he mentioned that there was a lot of stuff like that earlier today, someone bought it all.
*UGH!* missed it by ->||<- that much.

A couple of 'Thorsens' and a couple of 'Macs', and a few Craftsman.


Center is going to need some attention, but for $3.99 I can suffer thru it. rotates smoothly though.
Imagine the impact to the budget if I'd gotten there earlier...


The upper wrench is a Craftsman, so worn you can barely read it.
the 2nd one is a 25/32" & 3/4" box...


----------



## Weldo

Saw this on eBay today!  I’ve never seen a fly cutter like this before.  It looks to me like the insert is backwards, but round inserts would give a pretty good surface finish wouldn’t they?


----------



## Janderso

Yep


----------



## DavidR8

Reminds me of a Wagner Safety Planer







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----------



## darkzero

Not much for tools lately, been selling rather than buying which is not normal for me. Got me a bottle filled up from a B&M plumbing supply shop of some stinky dark sulfurized cutting oil.





Tape dispenser like the ones we used at my old work for my fancy expensive polypropylene masking tape.




Extra long solid carbide end mill to fix one of the slots on the screwless vise that I use on the bandsaw. That thing put up a small fight but I got it done with no issues.


----------



## middle.road

darkzero said:


> Not much for tools lately, been selling rather than buying which is not normal for me. Got me a bottle filled up from a B&M plumbing supply shop of some stinky dark sulfurized cutting oil.
> 
> View attachment 316336
> 
> 
> 
> Tape dispenser like the ones we used at my old work for my fancy expensive polypropylene masking tape.
> View attachment 316337
> 
> 
> 
> Extra long solid carbide end mill to fix one of the slots on the screwless vise that I use on the bandsaw. That thing put up a small fight but I got it done with no issues.
> View attachment 316338
> View attachment 316339


Looks similar to what 'OutsideScrewball' had to do recently.


----------



## Ken from ontario

I like that tape dispenser, although I would use it for my 2" filament tape and that's because I have no idea how good  polypropylene masking tape is.


----------



## darkzero

middle.road said:


> Looks similar to what 'OutsideScrewball' had to do recently.



How did I miss that! I'm subscribed to his channel too. Hope he's doing well, last I heard he was diagnosed with cancer & his son passed away.

Yup that's pretty much what I did except mine was not nearly as bad as his. On mine it was just the first slot (for jaws to be closed) which I rarely used & it was just one side. It still grabbed ok & it never bothered me for years, just came to mind the other day so thought I might as well fix it.


----------



## darkzero

Ken from ontario said:


> I like that tape dispenser, although I would use it for my 2" filament tape and that's because I have no idea how good  polypropylene masking tape is.



Me neither, haha. It's supposed to give you really clean lines for painting but I've never used it for painting. The name is actually Fine Line, 3M 218. I've had a 3/4" roll of it in my tool box for yrs. Never occured to me what is was or where I got it from. I use it mainly for protecting the finish of parts when I need. I think it might work for masking when anodizing but haven't tried yet. I wanted a couple of wider sizes then looked it up. That stuff is expensive & I would never pay full price. Luckily I found some 3/4" & 1" rolls on ebay a few months ago. The 2" rolls I just got last week. Those cost $50 a roll & I found 5 rolls for $33 shipped on ebay.

The tape dispenser is nice & cheaper than others on Amazon. Made in Taiwan. Again, we used the same exact brand at my old work but in 2" wide. I used them at work for kapton tape & 3M adhesive transfer tape. The blade is really sharp. The yellow thing flips down which is a cover to protect the blade (or rather you from the blade). I got the 3" wide one with suction cup base & I'm thinking of picking up another one in 2" wide.

Yeah I know, just a tape dispenser that I blabbed too much about but I really like these.


----------



## mmcmdl

middle.road said:


> DON'T GO INTO THE CHARITY THRIFT STORE!
> Walked in the front door and there on a lunch room sized table was grandpa's shop tools.
> Looked like someone cleaned out his shop and took it to the store.
> Found a live center. Talking with the young guy at the cashier's he mentioned that there was a lot of stuff like that earlier today, someone bought it all.
> *UGH!* missed it by ->||<- that much.



And this was your grandpa ? Why didn't it go thru you first ? 

OT here , but I just realized where you're located . We were in your neighborhood ( Knoxville , Maryville , Coal Creek , Oak ? ) years ago for a huge baseball tournament . Battle of the South . We drove home and had to drive back down to Nashville for a World Series tournament the following week . Love Tenn especially Knoxville . One of my friends is the Bluegrass HOF CEO in Nashville also .


----------



## Dhal22

middle.road said:


> Looks similar to what 'OutsideScrewball' had to do recently.



Yes, plumbers threading oil stinks but it works for us plumbers.


----------



## Weldo

Weldo said:


> Saw this on eBay today!  I’ve never seen a fly cutter like this before.  It looks to me like the insert is backwards, but round inserts would give a pretty good surface finish wouldn’t they?
> 
> View attachment 316327



I ended up buyin this thing!  Offered the seller $18 and they accepted.  I don’t even have a mill!  For some reason I couldn’t pass this thing up.


----------



## Aukai

HUMMMM, you may have a disorder


----------



## Aaron_W

Aukai said:


> HUMMMM, you may have a disorder



Now he has a reason to buy a mill.


----------



## Janderso

I bought a new Ingersol Rand compressor. "Proudly assembled in the good old USA". Electric motor - made in Mexico, the pump is made in India.
Oh well, it will do the job. I hope.
In the operating instructions, it says to verify/match the voltage from the "starter/contactor". I wasn't planning on adding a starter.
I just found in the manual, "if the motor installed on your compressor has a motor reset button, it does not require a magnetic starter."
Do I need to?


----------



## Dhal22

Down this wabbit hole I go.  Couple of eBay purchases arrived today.


----------



## pontiac428

So "assembled in USA" means you can put a flag sticker on it with USA in bold letters.  The motor is made by US Motors, which is made in Mexico.  The Punjab Express compressor head comes from the green sand foundries of India, where old enough for school means old enough to work.  Then they slap a brand logo on it that I used to trust.  All that makes my head hurt.  I need a new compressor, maybe I'd better budget $4000 for something equitable to yours (that surely will work just fine) made in the lower 48, 'cause that's how it seems to be these days.


----------



## Janderso

I got a deal, $698 plus tax. They are all over the place. $699 to $1,070 for the same model #. Some places offer free shipping, others charge extra.


----------



## jcp

Weldo said:


> Saw this on eBay today! I’ve never seen a fly cutter like this before. It looks to me like the insert is backwards, but round inserts would give a pretty good surface finish wouldn’t they?
> 
> View attachment 316327



We used one of these in the shop I worked at. Takes quite a bit of power to make a decent cut.


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----------



## Weldo

jcp said:


> We used one of these in the shop I worked at. Takes quite a bit of power to make a decent cut.



Yea I thought that might be the case because of the round insert.  Maybe you'll see it in the "for sale" section of the forum in a few days...!


----------



## Weldo

On the air compressor topic, These have been catching my eye lately.

California Air Tools

I like the fact that they are less noisy than the typical compressor.  Might be worth a look?  Supposedly made in California.


----------



## Superburban

Janderso said:


> I bought a new Ingersol Rand compressor. "Proudly assembled in the good old USA". Electric motor - made in Mexico, the pump is made in India.
> Oh well, it will do the job. I hope.
> In the operating instructions, it says to verify/match the voltage from the "starter/contactor". I wasn't planning on adding a starter.
> I just found in the manual, "if the motor installed on your compressor has a motor reset button, it does not require a magnetic starter."
> Do I need to?


No, just wire into the switch in the last pic, check the compressor for oil, and fire it up.


----------



## hman

Weldo -

I've had a California Air Tools 8010A (or similar) compressor for several years now.  LOVE IT!!  When I moved a couple years ago, the shop behind the house had air lines pre-plumbed from a large 230V compressor in a back room.  I've used the central system a couple times, but mostly just need to run a single air stapler, mini sand blaster, or suchlike.  For things like that, I just wheel over my California.  It is nice and quiet.


----------



## darkzero

pontiac428 said:


> So "assembled in USA" means you can put a flag sticker on it with USA in bold letters.  The motor is made by US Motors, which is made in Mexico.  The Punjab Express compressor head comes from the green sand foundries of India, where old enough for school means old enough to work.  Then they slap a brand logo on it that I used to trust.  All that makes my head hurt.  I need a new compressor, maybe I'd better budget $4000 for something equitable to yours (that surely will work just fine) made in the lower 48, 'cause that's how it seems to be these days.



Yup, that's pretty much how it is these days unfortunately. Look at Dewalt & the other lines from SB&D.

So what does that mean for my HF compressor? I bought my 60 gal HF compressor used from a shop that burned down that worked on Ducatis. It was the only thing that survived cause it was outside in a shed, was in great condition. Paid $255 for it & sold my 20 gal Craftsman/DeVilbiss for $200.

Anyway, I found out later this older HF compressor is the same unit as a BelAire made by ABAC. Manchester USA certified tank. AO Smith motor made in USA. Condor USA pressure switch. Pump is IMC made in Italy. Many people considered this made in the USA but HF never marketed it that way. Even the tech support number on it is for some air compressor company in the US & not HF, ABAC I assume.

I needed more air at the time. Plan was to just use this HF unit for a few yrs until it died cause it was only a $55 upgrade for me then get something proper. Well I've had it for 9 yrs now & it has never gave me a problem, doesn't even show signs of rusty water yet. That totally surprises me even til this day. I've even got a 17 gal tank piggy backed to it.


----------



## DavidR8

NOS 1972 Patience and Nicholson tap and die set.


----------



## darkzero

Nice score David! Looks too purdy to use!


----------



## DavidR8

darkzero said:


> Nice score David! Looks too purdy to use!


Hence no vise


----------



## darkzero

DavidR8 said:


> Hence no vise
> View attachment 316491
> 
> 
> View attachment 316493


----------



## ChrisAttebery

I bought a Lufkin 0-3" depth micrometer for $25. I've needed one of these occasionally for years. I usually just use the depth function on my dial calipers. I saw the price on this one and finally bit the bullet. I received it yesterday and it's in great shape.


----------



## francist

DavidR8 said:


> NOS 1972 Patience and Nicholson tap and die set.


Nice. Never seen a fire engine red tap and die set before! I have a fairly large T-handle tap wrench made by P&N — I think they’re decent quality tools.

-frank


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> Nice. Never seen a fire engine red tap and die set before! I have a fairly large T-handle tap wrench made by P&N — I think they’re decent quality tools.
> 
> -frank


Thanks, Frank,
I have a fairly useless tap handle now and no dies so I thought it was a good opportunity to get a decent tap handle, and dies at a reasonable price. KBC HSS sets are basically the same price for more taps and dies so something has to give.


----------



## Nogoingback

ChrisAttebery said:


> I bought a Lufkin 0-3" depth micrometer for $25. I've needed one of these occasionally for years. I usually just use the depth function on my dial calipers. I saw the price on this one and finally bit the bullet. I received it yesterday and it's in great shape.




25 bucks?  Score!!!


----------



## francist

I went to the large grocery store near my house today — flour, sugar, soup, etc all empty from the shelves and lineups at the cashiers not unlike Christmas Eve.   So..... I bought a new vise instead! Scrxx you, Coronavirus!

Okay I know, I shouldn’t joke. It’s not funny. But I did buy the vise.

I’ve had a smaller version of this for some years already but find myself reaching for it more for machine setup as opposed to precision work which I was I got it for in the first place. So I figured I’d get a second and slightly larger one.




Same manufacturer as my first one (it’s an Asian import) which I have been really satisfied with. And according to the accompanying facts and specification booklet “....It’s a kind of much actual valuable machinery accessory with simple structure, convenient operation, great clamping force, high accuracy, large adjustable scope”. Like, how could I not buy it?

Hope this doesn’t start a run on vise tools — there’s already some guy around here that seems to buying things up left, right, and centre....

Thanks for looking! Oh, and I got a free Allen wrench in the box that doesn’t fit anything on this model, BONUS!

-frank


----------



## tjb

JimDawson said:


> I haven't bought a new tool of any consequence for quite a while, and I just got paid for a couple of jobs, and the check is in the mail for a couple more, so time for a new tool.  The next project involves some steel fab and I've been wanting one of these for a while.....so.....
> 
> Haven't used it yet, just arrived about an hour ago.  We'll see how well it works.  I chose this one because the batteries are the same as the rest of my tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milwaukee 2781-22 M18 Fuel 4-1/2"/5" Slide, Kit - Power Angle Grinders - Amazon.com
> 
> 
> Milwaukee 2781-22 M18 Fuel 4-1/2"/5" Slide, Kit - Power Angle Grinders - Amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 313222


I have the Dewalt equivalent.  Love it.


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> I went to the large grocery store near my house today — flour, sugar, soup, etc all empty from the shelves and lineups at the cashiers not unlike Christmas Eve. So..... I bought a new vise instead! Scrxx you, Coronavirus!
> 
> Okay I know, I shouldn’t joke. It’s not funny. But I did buy the vise.
> 
> I’ve had a smaller version of this for some years already but find myself reaching for it more for machine setup as opposed to precision work which I was I got it for in the first place. So I figured I’d get a second and slightly larger one.
> 
> View attachment 316579
> 
> 
> Same manufacturer as my first one (it’s an Asian import) which I have been really satisfied with. And according to the accompanying facts and specification booklet “....It’s a kind of much actual valuable machinery accessory with simple structure, convenient operation, great clamping force, high accuracy, large adjustable scope”. Like, how could I not buy it?
> 
> Hope this doesn’t start a run on vise tools — there’s already some guy around here that seems to buying things up left, right, and centre....
> 
> Thanks for looking! Oh, and I got a free Allen wrench in the box that doesn’t fit anything on this model, BONUS!
> 
> -frank



Wait a second...are you... 


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----------



## DavidR8

Collet blocks!
(Thanks @Z2V I wasn’t expecting to also get a nut much less a bearing nut!)







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----------



## GunsOfNavarone

darkzero said:


> Got me a new shop stool. This one is made by JS Products who makes the same stool & shelving for Dewalt. That's why the base resembles storage racks. I use a $20 HF mechanic's roller but wanted something a bit taller for my work bench. I didn't want the Dewalt yellow one.
> 
> Masterforce is a Menards brand but we don't have Menards here on the west coast. The Menards one was supposed to be dark green. On the website they were listed as black. Product page said no shipping to CA but I tried ordering it anyway & it shipped.
> 
> Box that it came in showed the dark green but the one I got was grey. I'm happy with that! Any of those colors would have been fine with me as long as it wasn't yellow & didn't say Dewalt on it. Even with shipping it came out cheaper than the Dewalt one. Thing is beefy with nice size casters, I doubt my fat arse can break this one! I'm liking it so far.
> 
> View attachment 313644


Oh Man! I'm in the market for a shop stool, is that available here in the states? That is bad ass!


----------



## ttabbal

DavidR8 said:


> Collet blocks!
> (Thanks [mention]Z2V [/mention]I wasn’t expecting to also get a nut!)




I got a set of ER40 blocks from them. I have been very happy with them. I miced them and they were parallel and even within a couple of tenths. Estimated as I don't have a mic with the tenths scale that size, but close enough for me. Certainly under a thou.


----------



## darkzero

GunsOfNavarone said:


> Oh Man! I'm in the market for a shop stool, is that available here in the states? That is bad ass!



Yes, can get it at Menards. We don't have Menards here on the west coast so I ordered it. Not sure if they have Menards where you are.

Dewalt sells the same exact stool except its yellow.


----------



## ttabbal

I decided to replace some not so great bits in the shop. I can already tell I'm going to be much happier with both.


----------



## GunsOfNavarone

darkzero said:


> Yes, can get it at Menards. We don't have Menards here on the west coast so I ordered it. Not sure if they have Menards where you are.
> 
> Dewalt sells the same exact stool except its yellow.


Wow, there is one 115 miles away. Not worth driving but definitely delivery


----------



## MontanaLon

I have been needing some smaller R-8 collets so I went to the local used machine dealer and looked at what they had. They had new imports for $6 in all the common sizes nicely organized in neat stacks or used American made in various conditions, thrown in a bin on a bottom shelf. So I dove right into the bin and started looking. Came up with a 1/16", holy crap! How could you ever not break an end mill that small. I put it back and managed to find a 1/8" and 3/16". The 1/8" was used but clean and unknown maker. The 3/16" was NOS Lyndex in the box with grease still on it. Got them home, cleaned them up and checked the fit. 

Unlike my import collets, I don't have to crank them down hard to get them to hold. Just tight and they grip and don't pull down in a cut. Woohoo. I will be going back to dig through the rest of them that were still in the boxes or tubes and see if I can't replace all of my import collets. Heck I may even pick up the 1/16" so I can spin sewing needles in it.


----------



## Weldo

I found some more information on that weird fly cutter I got on ebay.  It's made by a company called Rotary Technologies Corporation.  They specialize in round insert tooling where the insert actually spins as it cuts, thus increasing tool life and cutting speeds.

The insert on the fly cutter does not rotate but is positioned such that it takes a kind of shearing cut rather than a typical plowing cut.  They say they are made for lower HP machines.  The insert is two sided and still available from Rotary.  I found some on ebay for $60 a piece!  

Here's the info page

Pretty neat!


----------



## erikmannie

I bought an 87 piece metric gauge block set. Even though it was the lowest grade and an import brand, it set me back $171.


----------



## rwm

Weldo said:


> I found some more information on that weird fly cutter I got on ebay.  It's made by a company called Rotary Technologies Corporation.  They specialize in round insert tooling where the insert actually spins as it cuts, thus increasing tool life and cutting speeds.
> 
> The insert on the fly cutter does not rotate but is positioned such that it takes a kind of shearing cut rather than a typical plowing cut.  They say they are made for lower HP machines.  The insert is two sided and still available from Rotary.  I found some on ebay for $60 a piece!
> 
> Here's the info page
> 
> Pretty neat!


That's crazy talk....please give us followup.
R


----------



## petcnc

I won an ebay auction and bought some unbelievable inserts that can machine the hardest metal (for example a bearing) like butter. 
I first saw them here (1:50) where the guy machined a ball bearing. 
They are called ELBOR inserts and made in Russia and are cheap.
They arrived today, I made a provisiolal holder for my mini lathe and test them. I could not believe my eyes! 
I machined an old bearing at 600 rpm without any lubricants or cutting oil like aluminum!!!!








I will make a proper holder and test it ASAP


----------



## Weldo

Whoa!  They're like diamond or something I guess?


----------



## GunsOfNavarone

petcnc said:


> I won an ebay auction and bought some unbelievable inserts that can machine the hardest metal (for example a bearing) like butter.
> I first saw them here (1:50) where the guy machined a ball bearing.
> They are called ELBOR inserts and made in Russia and are cheap.
> They arrived today, I made a provisiolal holder for my mini lathe and test them. I could not believe my eyes!
> I machined an old bearing at 600 rpm without any lubricants or cutting oil like aluminum!!!!
> 
> 
> View attachment 316804
> 
> 
> View attachment 316805
> 
> 
> I will make a proper holder and test it ASAP


I wonder how they would work on titanium...Any link to these (seller)


----------



## Weldo

Just watched that vid.  The guy gets an almost grinded like finish on that bearing!  Pretty cool stuff.  Everyone should have one of these in our tool chests, just in case!


----------



## darkzero

Weldo said:


> Whoa!  They're like diamond or something I guess?



Look up PCD inserts (polycrystalline diamond). They're available in common insert shapes. Also look up CBN (cubic boron nitride) inserts if you have a need to machine really hard materials. IIRC CBN can machine even carbide.


----------



## matthewsx

I bought a tiny lathe....


----------



## Janderso

Shootymacshootface said:


> Good score! You will need carbide tooling to make anything out of that wrist pin.


And a six jaw chuck , not really but, you know, while your at it!


----------



## NCjeeper

Decided to bite the bullet and upgrade my tig machine. Bought another Everlast. They had the 250EX 150 bucks off. Also ordered a watercooler and a CK torch from HTP.


----------



## DavidR8

NCjeeper said:


> Decided to bite the bullet and upgrade my tig machine. Bought another Everlast. They had the 250EX 150 bucks off. Also ordered a watercooler and a CK torch from HTP.



I’ll be interested in your impressions of the 250. There’s a TIG in my future. 


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----------



## erikmannie

DavidR8 said:


> I’ll be interested in your impressions of the 250. There’s a TIG in my future.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Just my opinion, but I have had good luck limiting myself to Miller machines and 220V.


----------



## erikmannie

Today I bought fillet gauges and a Starrett protractor.

In the photo, the back side is for concave fillets.


----------



## DavidR8

Picked up a Criterion 1/2” boring head.
Thanks for the lead @mikey and @mmcmdl !







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----------



## MontanaLon

You all are bad influences talking about your deals on ebay. I started looking and came across a Fowler 0-6" depth mic for $25 and no bids. I should have it Thursday unless the world ends.


----------



## mmcmdl

MontanaLon said:


> You all are bad influences talking about your deals on ebay.



Not ALL of us are . Only those dudes on the nightshift hours !  They know who they are .


----------



## petcnc

GunsOfNavarone said:


> I wonder how they would work on titanium...Any link to these (seller)


The name of the seller is tapsi1105 but It seems that the seller had only these items at the time.
If you search the ebay for "polycrystal insert" or "CBN insert" there are plenty of them for several tool holders!


----------



## NCjeeper

erikmannie said:


> Just my opinion, but I have had good luck limiting myself to Miller machines and 220V.


I have an old Miller mig welder. Great machine. I see a lot of welders having problems with their Miller Dynasty tig machines. So because of that I decided to stay with the Everlast brand for my tig.


----------



## erikmannie

NCjeeper said:


> I have an old Miller mig welder. Great machine. I see a lot of welders having problems with their Miller Dynasty tig machines. So because of that I decided to stay with the Everlast brand for my tig.



I have a Dynasty. I wonder what problems I should be on the lookout for.


----------



## Weldo

A few years ago I found an older Thermal Arc 300 GTSW machine on eBay local enough to pick up.  It’s been a great welder.  Sometimes the older machines can be had for a nice deal.


----------



## NCjeeper

erikmannie said:


> I have a Dynasty. I wonder what problems I should be on the lookout for.


The circuit boards. Zac over at the you tube channel Darlington Farms has literally every board replaced in his trying to get it to work right. He talks about the problems and Millers lack luster warranty repairs.


----------



## erikmannie

NCjeeper said:


> The circuit boards. Zac over at the you tube channel Darlington Farms has literally ever board replaced in his trying to get it to work right. He talks about the problems and Millers lack luster warranty repairs.


Ah, yes. I have heard of this problem. I tend to be a little paranoid with regard to the worst case scenario, and I often choose a brand based on serviceability. I have heard that technicians prefer to work on very common brands.


----------



## DavidR8

My parallels, clamp kit and a couple of 3/8" 4-flute endmills came in to KMS today.
While I was there I picked up some layout dye, TapMagic and1/8" and 1/16" parting blades.


----------



## MontanaLon

Depth mic showed up today. $33 to the door and everything there but instructions. I checked prices online and $200 for new and $100-$150 used so I'm happy. Only mark on it is the JC in the circle. I assume initials of prior owner.


----------



## DavidR8

MontanaLon said:


> View attachment 317390
> 
> Depth mic showed up today. $33 to the door and everything there but instructions. I checked prices online and $200 for new and $100-$150 used so I'm happy. Only mark on it is the JC in the circle. I assume initials of prior owner.



That’s a steal, well done!


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----------



## mmcmdl

I got 100 lbs of grass seed from TSC so I can spend my time and $$$ cutting more grass this summer . I shoulda bought some asphalt or concrete .  TSC was pretty empty as were the roads . All schools , restuerants , gyms , bars etc are basically shut down other than carry out. My wife and 2 children are working from home during the day , I'll find out if my sleep gets compromised tomorrow .


----------



## Aukai

Your going to hear the grass growing already????


----------



## mmcmdl

I saw 80 degrees one day this week , so I figure it's time . They ARE calling for snow on Sunday , so I should get it down Sat if possible .


----------



## GreatOldOne

Now I can get rid of the fog of war with my extractor, I thought I'd give mist coolant a go. I have these coming from various virus hotspots from around the world.

Cheapo eBay chinese mist sprayer. Coming from "Manchester" in Guangdong



Some 8mm air hose (actually from the UK!)


Appropriate tail for my air outlets, from "London", Jiangsu


And some pipe clips, which is properly advertised as Shenzen...



The whole lot shipped (with free germs!) was just over £20. So I'm not expecting the best quality but it's enough to mess about with for a start.

Everything will be unpacked using full NBC gear and decontaminated prior to use.


----------



## mickri

Not much.  Just a few odds and ends from Shars and Tru Grit Abrasives.  Got an edge finder, center finder and a wiggler set.  Have never used either and didn't know which I would like best so I bought both.  Needed a drill chuck for one of my drill presses and to use on the lathe.  Got the MT2 punch to make it easy to remove the chuck from the drill press.  And lastly but not the least some ceramic 60 grit belts for the belt sander.


----------



## hman

GreatOldOne said:


> Everything will be unpacked using full NBC gear and decontaminated prior to use.


Durn!  Been a while since I heard NBC.  Everything's CBR (chemical, biological, radiological) nowadays.  But it just doesn't have the same "ring" to it.


----------



## Ianagos

Got me a few more mahr indicators.


----------



## DavidR8

A big old chunk of solid forged aluminum. $10 






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----------



## Aukai

If you don't see well, add some Quasar light. I put down an old black rag to deaden the glare.


----------



## Weldo

DavidR8 said:


> A big old chunk of solid forged aluminum. $10



Did you just pick that up to use for raw material?  Sometimes it's fun to get creative in the search for materials.  In the past I've found myself wandering up and down the aisles at Lowes looking for just the right product I could scavenge or modify for the widget I was working on.  Like buying a cheap concrete trowel for a small piece of thin spring steel or whatever.


----------



## DavidR8

Weldo said:


> Did you just pick that up to use for raw material? Sometimes it's fun to get creative in the search for materials. In the past I've found myself wandering up and down the aisles at Lowes looking for just the right product I could scavenge or modify for the widget I was working on. Like buying a cheap concrete trowel for a small piece of thin spring steel or whatever.



Yup exactly that. I saw it and thought “That’s a lot of aluminum!”
The square part is 2” x 8” with a 6” which is probably 1” thick and then the flat bit. 

I also saw some tie rods but they had already been sold. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Janderso

Bought this Ingersoll Rand compressor to run my Hypertherm plasma cutter. It has enough CFM to run all my tools.
I got it placed in its final resting spot. It’s not as noisy as my old Craftsman 5 hp.
It’s a 3hp, 
	

		
			
		

		
	




	

		
			
		

		
	
220 - 60 gallon tank, 11.3 CFM at 90 psi. Single stage.
It’s all I need. Paid $698. Got a sweet deal!


----------



## Lonnie

Today was replenish the stock day. My uncle goes to auction sales and buys metal. Lots has come from bankrupt machine shops. I then buy all mine from him. This is a retirement business for him that he started roughly 15 years ago to keep himself busy.
Today I came home with well over 600 pounds of various metals and have roughly another 1,000 - 1,500 pounds or so of various cut-offs put aside to pick up once the snow is gone. I pay for the brass, bronze, aluminum and stainless but it's at scrap prices. All the steel I get for free.
Here is what followed me home today;

Over 200 pounds of aluminum, 150+ pounds of SS, 200+ pounds of brass/bronze and I'd guess 150 plus pound of various steel. Most of this metal is marked what it is but some is not. 







There is just over 200 pounds of bronze and brass here. Not sure what to make with it yet but at least I have it. The 2 big rounds weigh 128 pounds alone.


----------



## Superburban

Lonnie said:


> Today was replenish the stock day. My uncle goes to auction sales and buys metal. Lots has come from bankrupt machine shops. I then buy all mine from him. This is a retirement business for him that he started roughly 15 years ago to keep himself busy.
> Today I came home with well over 600 pounds of various metals and have roughly another 1,000 - 1,500 pounds or so of various cut-offs put aside to pick up once the snow is gone. I pay for the brass, bronze, aluminum and stainless but it's at scrap prices. All the steel I get for free.
> Here is what followed me home today;
> 
> Over 200 pounds of aluminum, 150+ pounds of SS, 200+ pounds of brass/bronze and I'd guess 150 plus pound of various steel. Most of this metal is marked what it is but some is not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is just over 200 pounds of bronze and brass here. Not sure what to make with it yet but at least I have it. The 2 big rounds weigh 128 pounds alone.


I wish I had an uncle like that. Good haul.


----------



## Downunder Bob

Well not exactly today, but a couple of Saturdays ago I picked up what I consider a bargain. A Moore & Wright micrometer set It does 0-1, 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4. I only got to take some photos yesterday so here it is. Also got a Moore & Wright toolmakers square and a fishtail thread gauge for BSW 55 deg. And a small booklet with all the lookup tables for british threads  Total cost A$65.00. Needs a little cleanup but in fair condition. The threads feel a little gummed up but quite smooth. After giving a good clean and lube I'll check it for accuracy.


----------



## Weldo

It's always cool to find old tools with their original wooden cases!


----------



## Janderso

First time tapping pipe threads.
There is a technique that is different from regular straight tapping.
Don‘t go in too far. I’ll have to make this block again.


----------



## Stonebriar

Please explain the consequences.  I am fixing to do the same. Will it not be tight enough if you do?  I have some 3/4" fitting blocks to make for my air system.


----------



## Weldo

Pipe threads or NPT threads are tapered.  Thus if you tap too deep, the inner diameter can grow so much that the male thread will no longer seal properly.

As far as I know the best way is to keep tapping and testing the fit of your male thread.  This will ensure you don't tap too deep.


----------



## GreatOldOne

New oil brushes and a couple of pairs of shop cut proof gloves.


And a new work apron.


----------



## Hobby_5

I ordered an Interapid dial test indicator 312b-1


----------



## Aukai

Also on NPT especially in the case of cast iron/aluminum cases use Teflon tape, do not try to get the seal with "tighter is better" it will crack the case. Just in case someone didn't know.....


----------



## Janderso

Stonebriar said:


> Please explain the consequences.  I am fixing to do the same. Will it not be tight enough if you do?  I have some 3/4" fitting blocks to make for my air system.


Yep,
What Weldo said. Don't go in too deep!


----------



## DavidR8

The 1972 NOS tap and die set arrived today. 
It’s fantastic!











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Superburban

Janderso said:


> First time tapping pipe threads.
> There is a technique that is different from regular straight tapping.
> Don‘t go in too far. I’ll have to make this block again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 317712


Just shave a bit off the sides with the ports. Or you could just mill a pocket at each hole.


----------



## Downunder Bob

DavidR8 said:


> The 1972 NOS tap and die set arrived today.
> It’s fantastic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Don't know what NOS stands for, but that is a set from P&N Australia you can see each tap and die has it stamped on them. P&N has been synonymous for quality in Australia, for about 100 years. You may also come across Sutton branded tools, they are a partner brand and equally high quality, I hope you enjoy them.


----------



## mmcmdl

Janderso said:


> Yep,
> What Weldo said. Don't go in too deep!


No pipe taps Jeff ? There are gages for pipe tap depths which are +/- one thread . What I always do is grind a flat on either a fitting or a tap and use it as a depth gage . I have quite a few pipe tap and die sets and reamers at the house along with a ship load of pipe machine taps . Regular , extended reach , skip tooth etc . You'll see them soon below on a certain site .


----------



## Dhal22

Stonebriar said:


> Please explain the consequences.  I am fixing to do the same. Will it not be tight enough if you do?  I have some 3/4" fitting blocks to make for my air system.



As a plumber, I cut 11 threads on pipe smaller than 2" and 9 threads on pipe 2" and larger.  NPT threads that is.


----------



## hman

Downunder Bob -
NOS = New Old Stock


----------



## silverhawk

Superburban said:


> Just shave a bit off the sides with the ports. Or you could just mill a pocket at each hole.


That will take care of the depth problem. 

joe


----------



## Janderso

Dhal22 said:


> As a plumber, I cut 11 threads on pipe smaller than 2" and 9 threads on pipe 2" and larger.  NPT threads that is.


That is good information.!!


----------



## Janderso

silverhawk said:


> That will take care of the depth problem.
> 
> joe


I can do that.


----------



## jcp

Dhal22 said:


> As a plumber, I cut 11 threads on pipe smaller than 2" and 9 threads on pipe 2" and larger. NPT threads that is.



Is this a typo? I’ve cut many many pipe threads in an oilfield machine shop but never this pitch. We did 11 1/2 and 8 pitch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

Downunder Bob said:


> Don't know what NOS stands for, but that is a set from P&N Australia you can see each tap and die has it stamped on them. P&N has been synonymous for quality in Australia, for about 100 years. You may also come across Sutton branded tools, they are a partner brand and equally high quality, I hope you enjoy them.



NOS means New Old Stock. 
It’s a brand new set, never been used. 
It came packed with an Australian newspaper from 1972. 
I love old tools so they totally fill my tool nerd needs 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## silverhawk

jcp said:


> Is this a typo? I’ve cut many many pipe threads in an oilfield machine shop but never this pitch. We did 11 1/2 and 8 pitch.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Actually, I think it is not the pitch he's talking about, just a fast rule about how deep to cut the threads. 

joe


----------



## Janderso

DavidR8 said:


> NOS means New Old Stock.
> It’s a brand new set, never been used.
> It came packed with an Australian newspaper from 1972.
> I love old tools so they totally fill my tool nerd needs
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Old tools are made better.


----------



## DavidR8

Janderso said:


> Old tools are made better.


My 1965 Unisaw, 1950 Beaver bandsaw and 1975 SB lathe and 1980 mill certainly agree with you


----------



## jcp

silverhawk said:


> Actually, I think it is not the pitch he's talking about, just a fast rule about how deep to cut the threads.
> 
> joe



Ah, yes....I see what he’s referring to now. If I pay enough attention, I’ll learn something everyday. Thanks for the heads up...


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----------



## Dhal22

jcp said:


> Is this a typo? I’ve cut many many pipe threads in an oilfield machine shop but never this pitch. We did 11 1/2 and 8 pitch.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I don't know.  I just use whatever RIdgid provides me,  I cut 


silverhawk said:


> Actually, I think it is not the pitch he's talking about, just a fast rule about how deep to cut the threads.
> 
> joe




Correct, I turn on my awesome Ridgid 300 and thread until I get 9 or 11 threads.  No idea on the thread pitch.


----------



## Hobby_5

I bought a Glacern vise...


----------



## Aukai

OK, I took the bait, not sure how to, or if it needs prettying up. I have not done any measuring, or checked run out, but visually it could be better. How to proceed, there is a difference at the machining line that you can feel.


----------



## Downunder Bob

DavidR8 said:


> NOS means New Old Stock.
> It’s a brand new set, never been used.
> It came packed with an Australian newspaper from 1972.
> I love old tools so they totally fill my tool nerd needs
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks David, those were the days. P&N and Sutton tools were the bees knees, and if you wanted real quality you went for Moore and Wright, which was why I was so pleased to pick up that micrometer set, Back in '61 when as an apprentice I bought my first 0-1' mic. it was Moore and Wright, and was calibrated in tenths of a thou. Of course I still have it. and use it quite a bit It had lain in my tool box for many years unused, until I finally bought my lathe, when I dug the mic out it was quite stiff, the oil had dried out, but a wash and lube, and it's as good as new. As smooth as silk.

I would love to have a good set of P&N taps and dies, but they are pretty pricey. I did buy a set of chinesium ones, just to get me started, and I have already replaced the popular sizes with good stuff, so I'll get there


----------



## NCjeeper

NCjeeper said:


> Decided to bite the bullet and upgrade my tig machine. Bought another Everlast. They had the 250EX 150 bucks off. Also ordered a watercooler and a CK torch from HTP.


Arrived and unboxed.


----------



## Janderso

I think every TIG welder should have a water cooled torch. I thought about buying one of those $325 E-bay coolers but I haven't got the huevos rancheros.
There has to be a difference between a $325 and a $1,250 cooler. You think?
One of these days.


----------



## Ianagos

That welder looks nice. What do you guys recommend for a beginner looking to stick and tig. I have true 3 phase available. Do you think a used older machine would be good or should I look for something newer?


----------



## DavidR8

Downunder Bob said:


> Thanks David, those were the days. P&N and Sutton tools were the bees knees, and if you wanted real quality you went for Moore and Wright, which was why I was so pleased to pick up that micrometer set, Back in '61 when as an apprentice I bought my first 0-1' mic. it was Moore and Wright, and was calibrated in tenths of a thou. Of course I still have it. and use it quite a bit It had lain in my tool box for many years unused, until I finally bought my lathe, when I dug the mic out it was quite stiff, the oil had dried out, but a wash and lube, and it's as good as new. As smooth as silk.
> 
> I would love to have a good set of P&N taps and dies, but they are pretty pricey. I did buy a set of chinesium ones, just to get me started, and I have already replaced the popular sizes with good stuff, so I'll get there



Thanks Bob, I’m itching to try them out as I have a cheap set of dies now and well, they’re cheap and are basically useless. 
Funny you mention Moore and Wright. I was given a set of M&W mics but they need some attention as the faces have some corrosion from improper storage. 
I’d like to get them back up to snuff but I’ve no idea how. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Downunder Bob

DavidR8 said:


> Thanks Bob, I’m itching to try them out as I have a cheap set of dies now and well, they’re cheap and are basically useless.
> Funny you mention Moore and Wright. I was given a set of M&W mics but they need some attention as the faces have some corrosion from improper storage.
> I’d like to get them back up to snuff but I’ve no idea how.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



David, if the faces are badly corroded, I'm not sure how you could fix them. Being corroded I'm assuming they don't have carbide faces, so they are probably just hardened tool steel. if the corrosion is only light you can place a piece of wet and dry paper, between the faces and clamping very lightly draw the paper across the face, use some kero for lubricant, do one face first and then the other, starting with about 600 paper and as soon as you get rid of the corrosion go to a finer paper, then finer until you get a mirror like finish, on both anvils. Then give them a good clean up and reset the zero. There may be other ways, but that is the way I've seen it done.

I've also heard of lapping the threads if it has been badly abused, using brasso or similar fine metal polish, of course they have to be thoroughly cleaned before reassembly. I might even try this with one of my chinesium mic's it feels quite gritty even after a thorough clean and lube.


----------



## NCjeeper

Janderso said:


> I think every TIG welder should have a water cooled torch. I thought about buying one of those $325 E-bay coolers but I haven't got the huevos rancheros.
> There has to be a difference between a $325 and a $1,250 cooler. You think?
> One of these days.


Yeah. My air cooled torch gets so hot it nearly melts. Cant wait to use a water cooled one. I got this cooler for 229 and free shipping.


----------



## NCjeeper

Ianagos said:


> That welder looks nice. What do you guys recommend for a beginner looking to stick and tig. I have true 3 phase available. Do you think a used older machine would be good or should I look for something newer?


Do you want to weld aluminum also or just steels?


----------



## Ianagos

NCjeeper said:


> Do you want to weld aluminum also or just steels?



I was hoping to be able to do both? I have a cheap mig welder and my brother has a harbor freight multi process welder but no tig stuff to hook up to it. 

It’s been 5+ years since I’ve tig welded and even then it was rough. Shouldn’t any decent tig welder be able to do aluminum?

Does it have to do with ac vs dc and polarity?

I’ve just been building up my shop and this is on the list.


----------



## Lo-Fi

Ianagos said:


> Does it have to do with ac vs dc and polarity?



You need AC to do TIG. TIG is always electrode (torch) negative.


----------



## pontiac428

@Ianagos, I run a 1960's era Miller Dialarc HF.  It works all the time, every time.  I can get parts for it and support from my LWS.  A tried and true workhorse.

That said, I wish I could adjust the AC profile for more control in AC.  I'd say that the old welder is right for 85% of my work, but when I need more cleaning or power from the phase, I just don't have the knobs to turn.  I'd really like a good Dynasty or Syncrowave series to get that last 15% toward perfection.  It's just a matter of time before I find the right deal on a newer Miller TIG and "upgrade", leaving the word in quotes because the system I've got is not a deal breaker by any means.


----------



## Aukai

I have a Syncrowave 250, never TIGed in my life, but I have it.


----------



## DavidR8

Aukai said:


> I have a Syncrowave 250, never TIGed in my life, but I have it.


Why isn't there an emoticon for envious?


----------



## Aukai

LOL, brand new cooler, and Argon too. I just don't know the settings, pulses, cleaning,,,,nothing. I had a shop check it out, so I know it works. It's big though.


----------



## DavidR8

Aukai said:


> LOL, brand new cooler, and Argon too. I just don't know the settings, pulses, cleaning,,,,nothing. I had a shop check it out, so I know it works. It's big though.


You're not helping


----------



## NCjeeper

Ianagos said:


> I was hoping to be able to do both?


Then you will have to look for an ac/dc machine. Most basic machines are dc only. Ac takes more amps so buy as large as a machine as you can afford.The more controls for ac the better. At a minimum the machine should have ac balance and ac frequency controls


----------



## DavidR8

My Criterion boring head arrived today.


----------



## Ianagos

Aukai said:


> LOL, brand new cooler, and Argon too. I just don't know the settings, pulses, cleaning,,,,nothing. I had a shop check it out, so I know it works. It's big though.



I think you are a bit far from me but do you want to sell it?

But anyways I was looking at older miller syncrowave 250s. I was told they cannot do pulsing? Is that important? Would it cover stick welding aswell? All materials?


----------



## Aukai

It does stick, this one has pulse, and cleaning, and LED numbers etc. I'm going to force myself to learn how to TIG when I get up the gumption 
It only took me a couple of years to get the nerve to be able to stand next to the lathe, and actually do something


----------



## Z2V

I received an assortment of 12L14 rod today just to have on the shelf.


----------



## francist

DavidR8 said:


> My Criterion boring head arrived today.


Hey, it looks just like my less-than-expensive no-name one. Well, except that the index mark isn’t stamped crooked, the pieces look like they mate up really well, the numbers are stamped in accurately and cleanly, and it says Criterion on it. Asides from that, they’re identical! 

-frank


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> Hey, it looks just like my less-than-expensive no-name one. Well, except that the index mark isn’t stamped crooked, the pieces look like they mate up really well, the numbers are stamped in accurately and cleanly, and it says Criterion on it. Asides from that, they’re identical!
> 
> -frank


And they both make round-ish holes right?


----------



## francist

Exactly!


----------



## francist

Actually I have no complaints with mine. It is a little rough in places but it’s performed well enough for my requirements. And for all I know, the crooked stampings may just be my progressives acting up again....

-frank


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> Actually I have no complaints with mine. It is a little rough in places but it’s performed well enough for my requirements. And for all I know, the crooked stampings may just be my progressives acting up again....
> 
> -frank


I couldn't resist the Criterion for the price. Glad I snapped it up before our dollar sank below the horizon...


----------



## francist

No kidding...


----------



## GreatOldOne

Mahr comparator. Do I need it? No. Did I want it? Yes. I dig the old school gauge styling. And you cant complain at £20 for german engineered, analog, micron resolution.


----------



## DavidR8

GreatOldOne said:


> Mahr comparator. Do I need it? No. Did I want it? Yes. I dig the old school gauge styling. And you cant complain at £20 for german engineered, analog, micron resolution.
> 
> View attachment 318254
> View attachment 318255


I dig the "Millimess" logo. That's usually what I make when trying hit a measurement, a millimess,


----------



## DavidR8

Z2V said:


> I received an assortment of 12L14 rod today just to have on the shelf.
> View attachment 318202
> View attachment 318203


Who was the eBay seller for this goodie box?


----------



## Aukai

This is the one he mentioned to me


----------



## Ianagos

GreatOldOne said:


> Mahr comparator. Do I need it? No. Did I want it? Yes. I dig the old school gauge styling. And you cant complain at £20 for german engineered, analog, micron resolution.
> 
> View attachment 318254
> View attachment 318255



I bought a millimess aswell but yours looks a lot bigger? I think it has twice the range of mine too. Looks good they are great for surface plate work.


----------



## Z2V

DavidR8 said:


> Who was the eBay seller for this goodie box?


The seller is Oakland Steel, goes by steeldawg9061. He has really good pricing on material and shipping. They combine ship orders also. All that was in a flat rate envelope for $7.00


----------



## greenail

I bought a floor drill press for $110 covered in grime.  It is an orbit 5 speed which I think is the same folks as Jet.  It runs quiet and the runout was around 0.05mm

Before:




After:


----------



## Bi11Hudson

While this hasn't arrived yet, I wanted to share a woodworking machine part with you. The primary reason I purchased it is that it's U.S. made. I have had AMT machines in the far distant (ca1971) past. Although they are a fuzz small, they are fully functional. And since I like old iron, manual machines, this is a good fit. It will get used, although I bought it because it was U S made. I know it's woodworking, but it's an "old iron" American machine.


----------



## GreatOldOne

Ianagos said:


> I bought a millimess aswell but yours looks a lot bigger? I think it has twice the range of mine too. Looks good they are great for surface plate work.



I’ll report back when it arrives... they’re pics clipped from the eBay listing. Another couple of purchases that bordem during lockdown accidentally made me buy:



mitutoyo digital depth gauge with one rod. Hoping my other rods from my other mitutoyo depth gauge will work with it,

New face shield. Purchased for use in the shop, but may come in handy for trips to the supermarket. I ’aint ‘fraid o no virus.


----------



## BGHansen

Few shop additions.  First is a Fowler brake caliper micrometer.  Couldn't resist for $17 including shipping off eBay.  







I have an upcoming project that involves cutting a helical gear.  The two mating gears will meet at a 90, so need to cut the gear with the cutter at a 45 to the blank.  My plan is to cut it on my Tormach 1100 using the 4th axis tipped at a 45.  The CNC will move the X, Z and A (rotation) axis in synch.  At least that's the plan.  First step was picking up a Grizzly 7" x 10" tilting table.  I'll make a base plate for the 4th axis, tip the plate to a 45 and tram it on the mill.  Still waiting on the 0.7 mm Module gear cutter from an eBay seller in China.  Hopefully they haven't developed a cough.





Last was a set of thread triangles from HHIP.  Somewhere around $45 including shipping.  I have a set of thread wires and multiple sets of Shars screw pitch micrometers.  The mics are my go to, but wanted to try the option of triangles on a digital set of mics.




OK, in summary, not a fan of triangles.  Probably my lack of dexterity and experience.  I found them VERY awkward to position on the thread and rotate the micrometer.  I'll fiddle a bit with the hole size on the rubber piece on the spindle which may help.  Problem is the triangle wants to rotate (naturally) as the mic is adjusted.  Might help to jam the ends into a Styrofoam peanut for stability like I do with thread wires.

Accuracy was also a problem.  Probably operator error on my part as the triangles came with no instructions.  The triangles have three different flats on the corners.  Presumably for different coarseness of threads as the triangle faces should rest on the thread face, not the root of the thread.

I slipped the triangles onto the mic and ran the flats into each other, then zero'd the mic.  Started with the sharpest edge.




Used a stock 5/16"-18 cap screw and measured the pitch at 0.24705".  The included pitch chart shows a 5/16"-18 thread at a range of 0.2752" - 0.2691" depending on the class of thread.  I checked the measurement twice, mic is working fine.




I moved to the middle of the road triangles, re-zero'd and remeasured.  Got 0.25055" this time.




Lastly, went with the coarsest flat and got 0.26095".




I measured the same bolt with a Shars 0-1" mic and got 0.272" which is dead in the middle of the screw pitch range for a 5/16"-18 bolt.





I'll do a little Google research on triangles as I can see their value.  The measurement error is in my initial zero'ing of the triangles.  I was zero'ing off the flats which will naturally give a different result for each coarseness as the flats of the triangle are the surface doing the measuring, not the flat on the edge.  I guess for now I could zero the mic on a known thread and use the delta to zero to measure where I'm at.  The screw pitch mic's are still #1 in my book.  More to follow as I learn how to use the triangles.

Bruce


----------



## silverhawk

Question. I need to double flare a stainless steel 3/8 tube (0.030 wall thickness). I have tried two flaring tools, the cheap one you can find on Amazon (two bars wing nutted together), and the pliers form. Neither works. What would you folks recommend for double flaring stainless?

joe


----------



## extropic

BGHansen said:


> (snip)  OK, in summary, not a fan of triangles. (snip) More to follow as I learn how to use the triangles.
> Bruce



As you've discovered, zeroing off the truncated edges is not correct. the planar surfaces of the triangles bear on the thread form. There is probably a "constant" value offset used, regardless of which face of the triangle the mike is bearing on. If your research doesn't yield that constant, you could figure it out yourself.
Reset your digital mic to normal zero (spindle on anvil) then measure the PD using the smallest truncated edge that clears the thread root. Record the measurement. Next, measure the same PD with your normal thread mic and subtract that measurement from the recorded (triangle) value. The difference should be the "constant". I would expect it to be a convenient number, like .200, .250 or .300 rather than .2793 or similar.

*Edit: incorrect. See reply #3333 below.*


----------



## extropic

silverhawk said:


> Question. I need to double flare a stainless steel 3/8 tube (0.030 wall thickness). I have tried two flaring tools, the cheap one you can find on Amazon (two bars wing nutted together), and the pliers form. Neither works. What would you folks recommend for double flaring stainless?
> 
> joe



I'm assuming that the tube in question is seamless. If not, I suggest you get some seamless tube.
I wouldn't be afraid to heat the tube end to make it more malleable.
I found this video also. The author makes a point of saying "don't use cheap tools".


----------



## silverhawk

extropic said:


> I'm assuming that the tube in question is seamless. If not, I suggest you get some seamless tube.
> I wouldn't be afraid to heat the tube end to make it more malleable.
> I found this video also. The author makes a point of saying "don't use cheap tools".


I did watch that video. My first attempt was a tool very similar. Both seem to be unable to grip the tubing enough. I will heat it and see if that gives me enough. I might need to order some seamless now, too. Thanks!

joe


----------



## extropic

silverhawk said:


> I did watch that video. My first attempt was a tool very similar. Both seem to be unable to grip the tubing enough. I will heat it and see if that gives me enough. I might need to order some seamless now, too. Thanks!
> 
> joe



It seems like these folks are in the business and have a helpline (Mon-Fri).
They mention that their stainless tube is "double annealed". That might be the solution for your problem.


----------



## Dhal22

silverhawk said:


> Question. I need to double flare a stainless steel 3/8 tube (0.030 wall thickness). I have tried two flaring tools, the cheap one you can find on Amazon (two bars wing nutted together), and the pliers form. Neither works. What would you folks recommend for double flaring stainless?
> 
> joe



A better flare tool,  I could loan you one.   I'm a plumber so have a couple of them.


----------



## silverhawk

I just ordered a thinner wall, seamless tubing. I will still heat it to see how that helps. If that doesn't work, I will hit my neighbor. I never thought about a plumber having better tools for flaring.

joe


----------



## extropic

BGHansen said:


> (snip)
> Last was a set of thread triangles from HHIP.
> (snip)
> More to follow as I learn how to use the triangles.
> 
> Bruce



Bruce et all,
It seems that my previous explanation of the use of triangles to measure threads was WRONG (reply 3327). It's not a constant, but rather you need a look-up table to determine the PD. My bad.
As I look at Bruce's pictures, maybe that's the table that the triangles are sitting on.
Here is a link to a thread that  includes a .pdf for the table, if anyone needs it.
At any rate, don't alter the zero of your micrometer. Just zero it with spindle on anvil as normal. Measure the thread (over the triangles). Then refer to the table to interpret the PD.


----------



## Aukai

Stainless does not need to be double flared if I remember correctly, and Rigid makes an awesome tool.


----------



## rwm

What's a fair price for that Criterion 202 in good shape with no bars?
Robert


----------



## Bi11Hudson

silverhawk said:


> Question. I need to double flare a stainless steel 3/8 tube (0.030 wall thickness). I have tried two flaring tools, the cheap one you can find on Amazon (two bars wing nutted together), and the pliers form. Neither works. What would you folks recommend for double flaring stainless?
> 
> joe



It's a _little_ outside my knowledge base, but my brother gave me a tool specificly for the "double flare" fittings. I've never used it, it just sits on the JIC shelf if I ever mess with brake lines, which is what it's for. 

The point here is that a double flare is not made with a common flaring tool such as is used for a Propane line. There is(are) a disk that attaches in place of the "cone", specific to tubing diameter. Once that disk makes a fold, it is then replaced with a "cone" to make another fold. That is the tool you need to find. It *is not* a "standard" flaring tool. You need the specific tool for the application.

The application for the tool I have is for brake lines on a 40s model Jeep. Brake lines are one of those things that you don't try to "second guess" the design specs or tooling. It fails when you need it the most, not when you have a "git by" backup. I have an old model ('68) C-30 dump truck with a split master cylinder and a non-functional Mercedes valve. I don't know the proper name for it, but it isolates the front and rear drum brakes. When that is rebuilt, I guess I'll learn how to use this thing properly.

.


----------



## DavidR8

rwm said:


> What's a fair price for that Criterion 202 in good shape with no bars?
> Robert



I paid $175 plus shipping. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jcp

Bi11Hudson said:


> It's a _little_ outside my knowledge base, but my brother gave me a tool specificly for the "double flare" fittings. I've never used it, it just sits on the JIC shelf if I ever mess with brake lines, which is what it's for.
> 
> The point here is that a double flare is not made with a common flaring tool such as is used for a Propane line. There is(are) a disk that attaches in place of the "cone", specific to tubing diameter. Once that disk makes a fold, it is then replaced with a "cone" to make another fold. That is the tool you need to find. It *is not* a "standard" flaring tool. You need the specific tool for the application.
> 
> The application for the tool I have is for brake lines on a 40s model Jeep. Brake lines are one of those things that you don't try to "second guess" the design specs or tooling. It fails when you need it the most, not when you have a "git by" backup. I have an old model ('68) C-30 dump truck with a split master cylinder and a non-functional Mercedes valve. I don't know the proper name for it, but it isolates the front and rear drum brakes. When that is rebuilt, I guess I'll learn how to use this thing properly.
> 
> .



Double flaring tool....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

Bi11Hudson said:


> It's a _little_ outside my knowledge base, but my brother gave me a tool specificly for the "double flare" fittings. I've never used it, it just sits on the JIC shelf if I ever mess with brake lines, which is what it's for.
> 
> The point here is that a double flare is not made with a common flaring tool such as is used for a Propane line. There is(are) a disk that attaches in place of the "cone", specific to tubing diameter. Once that disk makes a fold, it is then replaced with a "cone" to make another fold. That is the tool you need to find. It *is not* a "standard" flaring tool. You need the specific tool for the application.
> 
> The application for the tool I have is for brake lines on a 40s model Jeep. Brake lines are one of those things that you don't try to "second guess" the design specs or tooling. It fails when you need it the most, not when you have a "git by" backup. I have an old model ('68) C-30 dump truck with a split master cylinder and a non-functional Mercedes valve. I don't know the proper name for it, but it isolates the front and rear drum brakes. When that is rebuilt, I guess I'll learn how to use this thing properly.
> 
> .



I think those are called proportioning valves if my memory serves me right. 
No guarantee there!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dhal22

Bought an indicator recently.


----------



## GreatOldOne

Ianagos said:


> I bought a millimess aswell but yours looks a lot bigger? I think it has twice the range of mine too. Looks good they are great for surface plate work.



Hey - it arrive today; cleaned up and ready for Inspection. It’s a beast though...


----------



## Ianagos

GreatOldOne said:


> Hey - it arrive today; cleaned up and ready for Inspection. It’s a beast though...
> View attachment 319053



That one is huge wow. Has double the travel though so should make it easier to dial in. Looks very clean


----------



## Bamban

Ordered them Friday, along with a spare flex spout, they came in today DHL Express from Germany.


----------



## darkzero

More stuff from Japan.

My new favorite adjustable wrench. Well I never had a favorite as I don't use em much anymore, never had any stubbie ones either.





The popular common Engineer stuff, screw removal pliers & utility scissors.



I ordered the cap too but it's coming on the slow boat from Japan.




More Vessel JIS screwdrivers. I liked the small set so much I bought a second one to keep in my room.




And finally my first fail from Japan. Was only $10 so I wasn't expecting much but I didn't expect the damn thing to be made of aluminum! Haha! Oh well, I'll toss it in the bottom drawer of the tool box, maybe one day I will get to break it.


----------



## rwm

That aluminum wrench is the April fools joke!
R


----------



## Z2V

Not at all hobby related except it took $4K out of my pocket. My 25 yr old water softener took a dump so I purchased  a new system. I hope it last 25 yrs also. No new tools for a few months.


----------



## francist

darkzero said:


> My new favorite adjustable wrench


That’s a darn good idea, I’ve never seen an adjustable wrench with thinned-down jaws like that before. I always end up grinding an inexpensive open-end but that only gives a single size which we know from experience will different the the next size we need. 

-frank


----------



## DavidR8

Z2V said:


> Not at all hobby related except it took $4K out of my pocket. My 25 yr old water softener took a dump so I purchased  a new system. I hope it last 25 yrs also. No new tools for a few months.


Ugh. That really sucks.


----------



## Aukai

Can't you beat on it coming out of the pipe, be cheaper


----------



## Z2V

Aukai said:


> Can't you beat on it coming out of the pipe, be cheaper


The problem is ” A happy life is a happy wife”. Our water here sucks. When it comes to things like this I tend to buy the best I can and hope for the best out of it.


----------



## DavidR8

Z2V said:


> The problem is ” A happy life is a happy wife”. Our water here sucks. When it comes to things like this I tend to buy the best I can and hope for the best out of it.


I hear you @Z2V 
I once lived in a house with well that produced water with so much H2S gas it could be lit coming out of the tap. Turned all the bathroom fixtures black. Sand bed water softener and reverse osmosis system and $4K later all was good.


----------



## Z2V

Yea, every time it take a shower for the next few months, I’ll be thinking about that Kurt DX6 I want for my mill table.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

darkzero said:


> ~~~~~my first fail from Japan. Was only $10 so I wasn't expecting much but I didn't expect the damn thing to be made of aluminum! Haha! Oh well, I'll toss it in the bottom drawer of the tool box, maybe one day I will get to break it.
> View attachment 319098


 Actually that  is not an "April Fools Joke". It is a plumbers "basin wrench" I think it's called. I have a couple of them made out of some sort of plastic. It is meant for plastic drain lines with the shiney coupling nuts (nickle??) Very low torque and (my plastic ones) soft so they don't leave marks or scratches on the metal.

.


----------



## darkzero

Bi11Hudson said:


> Actually that  is not an "April Fools Joke". It is a plumbers "basin wrench" I think it's called. I have a couple of them made out of some sort of plastic. It is meant for plastic drain lines with the shiney coupling nuts (nickle??) Very low torque and (my plastic ones) soft so they don't leave marks or scratches on the metal.
> 
> .



That makes more sense. Guess I'll keep it under the kitchen sink then. The garbage disposal is acting up again.


----------



## Janderso

Z2V said:


> Not at all hobby related except it took $4K out of my pocket. My 25 yr old water softener took a dump so I purchased  a new system. I hope it last 25 yrs also. No new tools for a few months.


I don’t know a darn thing about water softeners. When we moved into our home here in Chico, Ca. It had a salt system water softener.
The thing wasn’t working right as the tap water tasted like the Pacific Ocean.
The customer service was so bad with our local Culligan, I decided to find a different mouse trap.
I chose the Pelican brand whole house filter and water softener system. No salt and no waste water.
It works great! (The only pic I have) the plumber was awesome.


----------



## Z2V

That’s an interesting system you have there Jeff. I like the shiny stainless tanks too. How often do you have to replace the cartridge filter and the media in the two tanks since they don’t get backwashed? I didn’t come across Pelican when I was searching for a new setup. I settled on Kenetico instead of another Culligan.


----------



## Lonnie

I was looking for a better quality boring head and saw this new 3" boring head on eBay so I decided to take a chance on it. I made an offer on it that was, IMO, quite low and the seller accepted. I haven't used/tested it yet but it appears to be of very good quality. It came with a BT40 shank and I just replaced it with an R8.


----------



## FOMOGO

Installed this system two years ago to replace my old one, which was about the same age as Z2V's. Added two pre-filters with the new softner, about $750 all in, not counting my labor. Using about half the salt I had been. True that, about the happy wife. Mike


----------



## Z2V

My new system will also have a pre-filter, two resin tanks and two Chloraban tanks. They claim a regen will use a pound of salt and thirteen gallons of water. I hope that’s accurate.


----------



## Janderso

Z2V said:


> That’s an interesting system you have there Jeff. I like the shiny stainless tanks too. How often do you have to replace the cartridge filter and the media in the two tanks since they don’t get backwashed? I didn’t come across Pelican when I was searching for a new setup. I settled on Kenetico instead of another Culligan.


The blue pre-filter housing has a drop in cartridge that gets replaced every 4 months, the system came with 6 of these with o-rings. There is a charcoal charge that is also a drop in that is replaced every 5 years. That's it = no salt and no drain water.


----------



## Janderso

Lonnie said:


> I was looking for a better quality boring head and saw this new 3" boring head on eBay so I decided to take a chance on it. I made an offer on it that was, IMO, quite low and the seller accepted. I haven't used/tested it yet but it appears to be of very good quality. It came with a BT40 shank and I just replaced it with an R8.


Lonnie,
You will need to grind the proper relief angles before you can use these but if properly ground, they work great IMHO.


----------



## Z2V

Janderso said:


> The blue pre-filter housing has a drop in cartridge that gets replaced every 4 months, the system came with 6 of these with o-rings. There is a charcoal charge that is also a drop in that is replaced every 5 years. That's it = no salt and no drain water.



Wow, doesn’t get much simpler than that.


----------



## ACHiPo

Z2V said:


> That’s an interesting system you have there Jeff. I like the shiny stainless tanks too. How often do you have to replace the cartridge filter and the media in the two tanks since they don’t get backwashed? I didn’t come across Pelican when I was searching for a new setup. I settled on Kenetico instead of another Culligan.


We have an Ecowater (salt ion exchange) we had installed shortly after moving into our house.  I was convinced my wife had been conned for $4k as water softener salesmen have a smarmy reputation, but she made it clear that having 1/2" of white stuff at the bottom of a drink after ice melted wasn't acceptable.  At that time our hardness was 37 gpg.  

We had a relatively new (5 years old) water heater die a few weeks ago and there was a lot of residue.  Had Ecowater come back out and check--our incoming hardness increased to 70 gpg.  They adjusted the softener and it continues to chug along.

Short story long I've been happy with the Ecowater unit.  I also looked at Kinetico which seems to have a good reputation.  I was intrigued with the filter systems like Jeff's, but was concerned it wouldn't handle our hard (and now harder) water.


----------



## Lonnie

Janderso said:


> Lonnie,
> You will need to grind the proper relief angles before you can use these but if properly ground, they work great IMHO.


Thanks. 
I usually just use insert boring bars but will try these bars that came with it. Would you happen to have a link or instructions on how to get a proper grind on them?


----------



## Janderso

Lonnie said:


> Thanks.
> I usually just use insert boring bars but will try these bars that came with it. Would you happen to have a link or instructions on how to get a proper grind on them?


Hmm,
There was a discussion on this a while back.
There are more qualified machinists that should answer your question.
I think the most obvious issue is they braze these big hunks of carbide on without allowing for the position of the center line.
I don’t know the terminology but try to imagine the center of the boring bar, the cutting edge should be on that same plane, It is way too positive and at incorrect cutting angles.
A little help here.
Ill repost the pictures showing the difference between Criterion and the type you and so many of us have purchased.


----------



## Lonnie

Janderso said:


> Hmm,
> There was a discussion on this a while back.
> There are more qualified machinists that should answer your question.
> I think the most obvious issue is they braze these big hunks of carbide on without allowing for the position of the center line.
> I don’t know the terminology but try to imagine the center of the boring bar, the cutting edge should be on that same plane, It is way too positive and at incorrect cutting angles.
> A little help here.
> Ill repost the pictures showing the difference between Criterion and the type you and so many of us have purchased.


I found this on youtube;


> How to grind a quality brazed carbide boring bar set to give usable tool angle clearances.


----------



## toploader

Won a lot of random junk at a auction recently. Found this guy buried in the box. Also picked up a Oliver 600 drill bit sharpener.


----------



## Superburban

I did not get anything. Some parts were supposed to be here today, but the USPS in their usual incompetence, sent it back east from Denver. I guess it was an April Fools joke for them yesterday. I get so tired of this.


----------



## Janderso

Boy no kidding,
I ordered a pan for the plasma drawer over a week ago. Shipping is all over the map


----------



## Ianagos

So I was just on Craigslist and somehow another machine followed me home. Also a heat treat oven if I go back to get it just ran out of room. Once I categorize all the tooling I might have some for sale for cheap. Probably about 1000lbs of tooling to go with it.


----------



## Aukai

Damn.....


----------



## DavidR8

What @Aukai said!


----------



## Ianagos

Yea I see people paying tons for manual Bridgeport’s and this one is a Logan and pretty good condition for almost scrap price. If anyone is interested let me know. I now have 2 and one is gonna go.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Drool, Slobber, Drool, What I would give just to have a place big enough to hold some of that stuff. And a concrete floor strong enough to hold a full sized lathe, and a Bridgeport, and a ~~~

.


----------



## Ianagos

Bi11Hudson said:


> Drool, Slobber, Drool, What I would give just to have a place big enough to hold some of that stuff. And a concrete floor strong enough to hold a full sized lathe, and a Bridgeport, and a ~~~
> 
> .



Lol I poured 8” of fiber reinforced concrete at the new shop but my brother has a 12,000lb vmc in his 2 car garage that he uses. 

My shop is terrible right now though those machines are actually going to sit outside for a couple months sadly.


----------



## Aukai

I'm almost going to ask on the Logan, if it was running....


----------



## Ianagos

Aukai said:


> I'm almost going to ask on the Logan, if it was running....



Owner said it ran... wasn’t hooked up to power. But I don’t think we could get it to Hawaii.


----------



## toploader

Bi11Hudson said:


> Drool, Slobber, Drool, What I would give just to have a place big enough to hold some of that stuff. And a concrete floor strong enough to hold a full sized lathe, and a Bridgeport, and a ~~~



the most expensive thing in the shop is space.


----------



## Aukai

It would require a box, and a fork lift.


----------



## Ianagos

Aukai said:


> It would require a box, and a fork lift.



I have one of those... 

But I don’t think the price would be economical. Give me a month or 2 and I’ll see how it work and gonna hire neighbor hood kid to clean it up.


----------



## Dhal22

DavidR8 said:


> What @Aukai said!



Yup.


----------



## Dhal22

Ianagos said:


> Owner said it ran... wasn’t hooked up to power. But I don’t think we could get it to Hawaii.




Hey,  I'm a lot closer....................


----------



## Ianagos

Dhal22 said:


> Hey, I'm a lot closer....................



Would you want to drive down May or so? Maybe not for the mill necessarily? but other tooling and stuff if you are interested


----------



## Dhal22

Ianagos said:


> Would you want to drive down May or so? Maybe not for the mill necessarily? but other tooling and stuff if you are interested




Sure,, I'm just getting in to the hobby so looking to learn and acquire.


----------



## Ianagos

Dhal22 said:


> Sure,, I'm just getting in to the hobby so looking to learn and acquire.



Yea no problem I run a lot of bigger cnc stuff but I started on smaller stuff.


----------



## Aukai

Keep us in the loop on how things are going


----------



## Dhal22

Ianagos said:


> Yea no problem I run a lot of bigger cnc stuff but I started on smaller stuff.



Bigger cnc stuff at work or your own hobby?


----------



## Ianagos

Dhal22 said:


> Bigger cnc stuff at work or your own hobby?



Well hobby is my work. I’ve never worked at a real shop except my own. I am formally trained in cnc and Cad though. (I only run the shop parts time) 

At the moment I want to downsize a lot of stuff. Looking to sell all my older manual stuff to make room for my cnc stuff. I have tons of old tooling although I already sold a lot of the nicer stuff.

So if anyone around Georgia wants to stop in let me know. I’m not here to work full time for free but I’ve told people on the forums before if they need help on bigger projects to let me know. I have larger work envelope machines. Currently biggest mil is 50”x20” but looking to get a bigger one soon. Can turn 18” parts. 12” on cnc


----------



## NCjeeper

Scored a really nice Sterling Drill Grinder off of Ebay. Too bad it will be months before I can get it because of the virus lock down. Good thing a friend of mine lives close by and can pick it up and store it for me.


----------



## NCjeeper

Looks like this.


----------



## NCjeeper

Does bits from 1/8 to 2 1/2".


----------



## Superburban

Superburban said:


> I did not get anything. Some parts were supposed to be here today, but the USPS in their usual incompetence, sent it back east from Denver. I guess it was an April Fools joke for them yesterday. I get so tired of this.
> 
> View attachment 319331


Finally arrived today. The poor meter likely has mores miles under its belt in a post office truck, the last two weeks, then it had in its whole life.


----------



## GreatOldOne

Ooooh. Magic red boxes.


----------



## matthewsx

matthewsx said:


> I just moved (kinda) to a new town and left my shop (mostly) behind so I've been checking the "free" section of Craigslist for tools. Over the weekend I picked up a tablesaw that's the twin to my dad's old saw in my Michigan shop.
> 
> View attachment 311827
> 
> 
> It's undergoing the evaporust treatment right now but has already made some cuts for me.
> 
> But today I was looking and this guy in Watsonville wanted some scrap metal hauled away, washing machine, car parts, etc. What caught my eye was this sweet little saw he was trying to get rid of.
> 
> View attachment 311828
> 
> 
> View attachment 311829
> 
> 
> View attachment 311830
> 
> 
> View attachment 311831
> 
> 
> Now, I've wanted a coldsaw for years and the thought of getting one for the price of hauling away some scrap metal....
> Well, I was all over that.
> 
> John




I finally got into this thing and I think it's gonna work out.

The motor runs.




Gears turn.



Got it all drained and disassembled for a cleaning and re-paint.



So, just one question for coldsaw fans, what's the difference between one built for steel vs. non-ferrous? This saw was obviously used for aluminum or some other non-ferrous metal, will I run into problems if I try cutting mild steel?

John


----------



## Dhal22

A couple of parallel clamps from eBay arrived today.


----------



## DLF

Workshop (easter) bunny was kind enough to bring me a nice 1T engine hoist. Must have behaved in the past year 

What I like about it is the small footprint when folded and when in use the legs sit low enough to fit under a standard shipping pallet.








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ACHiPo

DLF said:


> Workshop (easter) bunny was kind enough to bring me a nice 1T engine hoist. Must have behaved in the past year
> 
> What I like about it is the small footprint when folded and when in use the legs sit low enough to fit under a standard shipping pallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That looks like a really nice one!


----------



## Buffalo21

I bought a plate beveler, with 3 carbide cutting insert cutting head, think heavy duty hand router, meant for metal.


----------



## DavidR8

Dhal22 said:


> A couple of parallel clamps from eBay arrived today.



I have a pair of those, Empire brand. 
I can’t ever get them to clamp effectively. What’s the secret?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Stonebriar

I may have bought a band saw blade from *Action Industrial Supply or maybe not. * I ordered it online and have not heard a word from them*. *It may just show up or I may never get it.  Maybe they are closed down for the virus.


----------



## Nogoingback

matthewsx said:


> So, just one question for coldsaw fans, what's the difference between one built for steel vs. non-ferrous? This saw was obviously used for aluminum or some other non-ferrous metal, will I run into problems if I try cutting mild steel?
> 
> John



I have a Makita coldsaw with a carbide tipped blade.  The important thing when cutting steel with them is blade speed. 
Mine runs at 1300 no load rpm, which is really the important difference between a cold saw and a chop saw.  Aluminum can be cut at higher speeds.  I find that it's useful for cutting tubing or thin stuff:  forget it for thicker stock.  That's what bandsaws are for.  When cutting, you can't force the blade through; you have to find the feed rate that the blade is happiest at or you'll be sharpening blades a lot.


----------



## matthewsx

Nogoingback said:


> I have a Makita coldsaw with a carbide tipped blade.  The important thing when cutting steel with them is blade speed.
> Mine runs at 1300 no load rpm, which is really the important difference between a cold saw and a chop saw.  Aluminum can be cut at higher speeds.  I find that it's useful for cutting tubing or thin stuff:  forget it for thicker stock.  That's what bandsaws are for.  When cutting, you can't force the blade through; you have to find the feed rate that the blade is happiest at or you'll be shapening blades a lot.



Thanks for the info, I'll check the speed and give it a try with your tips

John


----------



## Aukai

Tooth count is important too AL VS steel.....


----------



## Nogoingback

Yes, the correct blade is important, especially with steel.  I've found with aluminum there's more leeway.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought 2 Miller welding helmets, a Classic & an Infinity. I got a light kit, cheater lenses and new filters for the respirator on my Speedglas AdFlo helmet.

I also bought three pairs of Miller MIG/stick gloves.

I also bought two 6” lengths of 2 1/4” mild steel solid round bar. I made a pencil holder my my sister-in-law.


----------



## WobblyHand

Dhal22 said:


> A couple of parallel clamps from eBay arrived today.


I got the 754-C-1 -1/2 clamps a few days ago.


The screws were jammed, but freed them up pretty quickly.


----------



## WobblyHand

erikmannie said:


> I also bought two 6” lengths of 2 1/4” mild steel solid round bar. I made a pencil holder my my sister-in-law.
> 
> View attachment 320674


Wow, that's a no nonsense pencil holder!


----------



## erikmannie

WobblyHand said:


> Wow, that's a no nonsense pencil holder!



It took me 9 hours to make. So much boring.


----------



## WobblyHand

You must like her a lot.  You aren't kidding that's a *lot* of boring.


----------



## Dhal22

DavidR8 said:


> I have a pair of those, Empire brand.
> I can’t ever get them to clamp effectively. What’s the secret?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Dunno,  I saw them used recently on a machining video on YouTube so bought a couple.   I was fiddling with them and agree on what's the secret.


----------



## WobblyHand

Only thing I can think of is using a micro-tommy bar to actually tighten them.  Just have to be careful not to over torque the screws. They are sold as toolmaker vises, so _somehow_ they can be tightened...  I've used mine to hold stuff level so it's easier to maintain a constant angle when honing a tool bit.  In a video I watched, one guy used a similar vise and used a screwdriver through the hole to tighten it.


----------



## JohnG

I didn't really need this drill press. I've worked with a little Delta bench top drill for a long time, but I have thought a bigger drill might be handy.  I came across this Boice Crane drill in an online auction of a school shop.  Boice Crane made lighter machines, and they were popular with schools.  This Swedish made press, possibly a Solbegra, doesn't fit that pattern.  It has a gear driven spindle, no belts, like a large factory machine for low spindle speed and high torque without slippage.  It has a 2 speed motor, 4 speed gearbox, and a #3 Morse taper that matches the tailstock on my lathe.
I've cleaned it up but I don't think I'll paint it.  I just need to get the right electrical plug on it to try it out.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

DavidR8 said:


> I have a pair of those, Empire brand.
> I can’t ever get them to clamp effectively. What’s the secret?



I have been cobbling those together for ages, since I was a kid, I guess. I now have a dozen or better, in different sizes fron 1-1/2 to 5 inches long. *Mostly* factory built, many different brands. I do have a few made with aluminium key stock so solder won't stick to them. (Al key stock from small engine shops) My usage may or may not be correct, but works for me for what I do. They are also used by cabinet builders; called "Jorgenson" clamps, I think.
=>
Holding one screw and rotate the clamp with the other until it's just a RCH larger than the surface to be clamped. Place the clamp and tighten the [forward] screw so that the clamp is slightly tapered toward the work. Just the ends touching. Experience will determine the optimal spacing. . .
<=
These do not hold as well as a "C" clamp, not meant to. But, they don't mark the work, which in my case is usually a light Zamak or plastic casting.  I find them most useful for holding cumbersome pieces or odd shapes in a heavy (6") bench vise. Occasionally for holding something (usually small) that I have trouble holding on to.(Age, shakey hands) Or don't want the paint on my fingers.

They are made for "die makers", whatever that is. I use them most of the time as "self closing" needle nose pliars. Another useful tool I have is spring loaded hair clippies. I don't know the proper name. Aluminium is most useful as solder won't stick to it. But they are getting hard(impossible) to find. So I make do with nickle plated steel for most jobs. Such things as gas tank floats are made out of plastic these days so most of my usage for soldering is "old school". If I even do it. . . . .

.


----------



## 7milesup

JohnG said:


> I didn't really need this drill press. I've worked with a little Delta bench top drill for a long time, but I have thought a bigger drill might be handy.  I came across this Boice Crane drill in an online auction of a school shop.  Boice Crane made lighter machines, and they were popular with schools.  This Swedish made press, possibly a Solbegra, doesn't fit that pattern.  It has a gear driven spindle, no belts, like a large factory machine for low spindle speed and high torque without slippage.  It has a 2 speed motor, 4 speed gearbox, and a #3 Morse taper that matches the tailstock on my lathe.
> I've cleaned it up but I don't think I'll paint it.  I just need to get the right electrical plug on it to try it out.
> 
> View attachment 320759



That is very cool John.  I did not know though that there were schools up by Hurly.  Wolves and woods... 

(I'm just yankin' yer chain)


----------



## hman

Ordered a few goodies not that long ago.  Got two of three today.  

1. Inspired by the posts in https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/riten-vs-royal-centers.83397/#post-734016 I decided to upgrade to a better live center for my 12x24.  Bought the Grizzly SB1282 set.  Specs sounded good, and it's made in Taiwan.  Seems pretty durn smooth.




2.  Ordered a GOOD dial caliper - a Mitutoyo from Amazon.  The actual vendor was listed as Travers Tool, so I felt confident it was going to be the genuine article.



(3. Still awaiting a Mit electronic caliper, also from Amazon/Travers.  Should also be genuine.)


----------



## Dhal22

Bi11Hudson said:


> I have been cobbling those together for ages, since I was a kid, I guess. I now have a dozen or better, in different sizes fron 1-1/2 to 5 inches long. *Mostly* factory built, many different brands. I do have a few made with aluminium key stock so solder won't stick to them. (Al key stock from small engine shops) My usage may or may not be correct, but works for me for what I do. They are also used by cabinet builders; called "Jorgenson" clamps, I think.
> =>
> Holding one screw and rotate the clamp with the other until it's just a RCH larger than the surface to be clamped. Place the clamp and tighten the [forward] screw so that the clamp is slightly tapered toward the work. Just the ends touching. Experience will determine the optimal spacing. . .
> <=
> These do not hold as well as a "C" clamp, not meant to. But, they don't mark the work, which in my case is usually a light Zamak or plastic casting.  I find them most useful for holding cumbersome pieces or odd shapes in a heavy (6") bench vise. Occasionally for holding something (usually small) that I have trouble holding on to.(Age, shakey hands) Or don't want the paint on my fingers.
> 
> They are made for "die makers", whatever that is. I use them most of the time as "self closing" needle nose pliars. Another useful tool I have is spring loaded hair clippies. I don't know the proper name. Aluminium is most useful as solder won't stick to it. But they are getting hard(impossible) to find. So I make do with nickle plated steel for most jobs. Such things as gas tank floats are made out of plastic these days so most of my usage for soldering is "old school". If I even do it. . . . .
> 
> .




Don't hear the rch term often.  : )


----------



## Dhal22

Found this at an antique store recently.   It's the plumber in me I suppose,  I have collected many old plumbing tools.


----------



## Aukai

Level?


----------



## 7milesup

Dhal22 said:


> Don't hear the rch term often.  : )



I had to look that up.  Too dang funny.


----------



## Dhal22

Aukai said:


> Level?



Whoops, sorry.  Yes,  an old level.


----------



## devils4ever

I got my Shars thread mic, my Reilang R003-252 MERKUR precision oiler from Germany, and a bunch of 12L14 steel and 6061 Aluminum round bar stock. All came this week. Surprisingly, the oiler from Germany came faster than some of the other items shipped domestically! I need to file the tip on the oiler a bit more to fit my PM25 mill ball oilers.


----------



## BGHansen

I usually single-point thread of the lathe with inserted tooling.  I've been watching Aloris No. 8 threading tools for quite a while on eBay which usually go for around $125.  MSC had them on sale for $94 with free shipping so I became an owner.  I'll try it on some various materials once I get the Tormach enclosure finished and report back how it works.

Bruce


My first genuine Aloris tool holder!



One cap screw holds the HSS threading tool in place.  Replacements are around $40 though there's a lot of steel there!



Two set screws on the side for adjusting (my assumption) the tilt of the cutting tool to give some side relief


----------



## projectnut

I for one will be more than interested in your report on the Aloris threading tool.  I have a couple of them and don't really care for them.  In some situations they seem a bit bulky and clumsy.  I do use them on occasions, but much prefer the standard HSS tool ground to a 60* point.  Maybe it's just an old dog and a new trick syndrome.


----------



## projectnut

silverhawk said:


> Question. I need to double flare a stainless steel 3/8 tube (0.030 wall thickness). I have tried two flaring tools, the cheap one you can find on Amazon (two bars wing nutted together), and the pliers form. Neither works. What would you folks recommend for double flaring stainless?
> 
> joe



I'm a little late to the party on this subject, but as mentioned to do a double flare you'll need the proper tool.  Over the years I've done many hundreds of double flares on copper, stainless, and even hard aluminum tube.  I use this exact tool from Snap On.  Mine is probably in the neighborhood of 50 years old, yet still makes quality flares. 









						#ae238  Snap On Double Flaring Tool Kit TF-5 | eBay
					

Find great deals for #ae238  Snap On Double Flaring Tool Kit TF-5. Shop with confidence on eBay!



					www.ebay.com
				




If you look closely at the instructions in picture 4 it gives the technique and sequence to make a proper double flare.  Even though the instructions are for "thin wall steel, aluminum and soft copper" it can be used for just about any material you can think of.  If you can secure the tube tight enough in the holder the tool is strong enough to form the flare.  The key is the holder.  It has serrations that dig into the tube and hold it in place.  If the serrations get damaged or dull by tubing slipping through them it will not hold the tube securely, and it will be all but impossible to make a good double flare.


----------



## BGHansen

projectnut said:


> I for one will be more than interested in your report on the Aloris threading tool.  I have a couple of them and don't really care for them.  In some situations they seem a bit bulky and clumsy.  I do use them on occasions, but much prefer the standard HSS tool ground to a 60* point.  Maybe it's just an old dog and a new trick syndrome.


I'm curious too.  There are lots of supporters and detractors out there.  I'm guessing that at a minimum I should grind a bit of back rake and side rake on the top.  The side relief is adjustable with the two set screws and end relief is built in.  I will say that the finish of the holder is very smooth, but the cap screw holes had crud in them.  I couldn't run the cap screw in with an Allen wrench with the short leg in my hand.  Ran a tap in and pulled out some shavings.

Bruce


----------



## erikmannie

I just bought 4 micrometer standards on eBay. 2”, 3”, 4” and 5”. Brands were Starrett, Mitutoyo, Devlieg & Swedish and Lufkin.


----------



## GreatOldOne

Purchase last week - An old, possibly WW2 vintage CQR toolchest.





I snaffled this off eBay this lunchtime for the princely sum of £32. A bargain I think. 






Please excuse the tape measure - these are pics from the listing. Hoping the case and the base of the level will clean up. No idea what number this is, but from the pics it’s 12” long...


----------



## 7milesup

G.O.O.   Those are great finds.  Seems like my finds are always $3 less than new price.


----------



## Ianagos

7milesup said:


> G.O.O. Those are great finds. Seems like my finds are always $3 less than new price.



Still better than the auction I saw yesterday when people were paying over full price ha. I think people don’t take into account the buyers premiums. But even with out that price was twice what the same thing was on Craigslist for.


----------



## hman

Wowsere!!!  Great finds (and I've seen your toolbox restoration thread ... double wowsers)!


----------



## DavidR8

My Interapid 312b-2 showed up today.
What a gorgeous piece of engineering!


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a Magnifying Lens Adapter to mount a 2.5X cheater lens in my economy grade Miller Classic welding helmet.

It was easy to use one of these adapters to mount a cheater lens in my Miller Infinity helmet. In fact, this adapter is included with an Infinity helmet.


----------



## devils4ever

I got my Noga mag base and dial indicator on sale from MSC. Also, some spotting drills, countersinks.


----------



## Surprman

I picked-up a new 5 drawer tool cart from Harbor Freight.  Very impressed with the quality.  The sheet metal used was pretty thick- even the packaging was very well done.  Assembly took about an hour and the design used extra reinforcement pieces to ensure stability.   Now I need more tooling to put in it.


----------



## Cadillac

Stimulated the economy alittle bit. I was surprised when I went looking for some inserts. First I found name brand ones I needed and the prices were down at import prices. They were 10-13 dollars a pack which is a steal for name branders.


----------



## francist

@Surprman I love the look of that lathe!

-frank


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> @Surprman I love the look of that lathe!
> 
> -frank


Perfect shop phone!


----------



## devils4ever

I just received a Starrett 91B tap wrench.


----------



## DavidR8

Third reader arrived first. 








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## francist

Well Lee Valley Tools got some of my money today — actually that’s not true. A friend gave me a gift card to Lee Valley a while back in return for some work I did for him and it’s been burning a hole through my kitchen table ever since. Today seemed like a good day to take a bit of the heat off it, so to speak.

After more than fourty years of buying from Lee Valley I don’t need a lot of stuff from them any more but I thought the little Taig 4-jaw independent might work well on my small rotary table. It’s really nicely made and has a good feel. And I think it’s the first tool I’ve ever received that’s been packaged in diesel oil!




And I was curious about this precision oiler. I have a number of small micro-sized oil cans but I needed one with a long proboscis and controlled delivery. This one has an interesting operation much like a ball point pen except the tip is a tapered plug that allows oil to pass when the button is depressed. The oil flows by gravity, so no pressurized splork of oil all over the target.




The rest of the items aren’t really machining items but rather for the machine. I’ve recently cleaned up one of my Mom’s old Singer 15-88 treadle sewing machines and am having a lot of fun playing around on it. There’s a surprising similarity between running a treadle and running a manual milling machine I think — both require a fair degree of coordination and dexterity while retaining your wits as to where you’re driving! It is cleaner though, and brings back lots of fond memories for me.




So that’s my cache for the day. Thanks for looking, and here’s the recent focus of my affection for anyone interested. It’s from the 1940’s.




-frank


----------



## francist

DavidR8 said:


> Perfect shop phone!


But mine is smaller....

Anyone else remember when BCTel was giving these out? I’m gonna say 1969 or so, cant remember for what occasion though. It’s a “Styline”, oooh!


----------



## DLF

I just got a vise stop for the mill. Sadly I went for the china crap and it is bad. I even do not know where to begin describing it.

First of all the build quality is sooo bad; scratches, burrs, bad paint job, you name it.

2nd it’s not as advertised. I mean this thing is huge. A vise stop should be used for work indexing. But this thing can be used to actually hold the work. The picture shows it installed on the mill table next to a 4” vise

What I received:





The advertised pictures show a much smaller vise stop. Either the photo was edited or that vise and table were so huge the vise stop looked tiny 

Are all vise stops supposed to be that big???

Adverisment:





Anyhow, I will scrap it and just buy a Tschorn vise stop. The local tool-supplier has it in their catalogue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## middle.road

Local estate sale held one virtually 'on-line'. We bought a couple of small items and went to pick them up today - last day.
Lo & behold there were three tables full of hand tools and such. Owner was a diesel mechanic for (50) years.
We were the only ones there other than the the sale dude. Kind of felt 'normal', except for breathing through a face mask.
Everything was half-off marked price. (oh-oh)


A vintage Lufkin #1911, will make for a good 'rough' mic. 


The 'prize'! Sweet shop made hammer.
I'm thinking I'll replace the head with a larger brass one.


----------



## Buffalo21

Plasma cutting consumables, multiple pipe taps, some 90/10 mig gas, welding helmet (Speedglas SL), a R8 x ER 20 collet chuck and a set of ER 20 collets and 45 feet 3/4” diameter ground and polished shafting.


----------



## Aaron_W

Surprman said:


> I picked-up a new 5 drawer tool cart from Harbor Freight.  Very impressed with the quality.  The sheet metal used was pretty thick- even the packaging was very well done.  Assembly took about an hour and the design used extra reinforcement pieces to ensure stability.   Now I need more tooling to put in it.
> 
> View attachment 321413
> View attachment 321414



I think the tool chests and carts are the best items that Harbor Freight sells. I bought one of these carts a couple of months ago for my surface plate which now lives in the top compartment.


----------



## Aaron_W

I've been casually watching out for a 6" rotary table, and this "like new" Taiwan made Homge rotary table turned up on ebay for less than the cheap Chinese ones I had been contemplating. Even the shipping was reasonable. The center hole is MT2 which is convenient as that matches the mill spindle, lathe tail stock and my dividing head.




and with the 4" Sherline table that was being shared between the mills. The new one will be a much better fit for the Clausing.


----------



## BGHansen

Aaron_W said:


> I think the tool chests and carts are the best items that Harbor Freight sells. I bought one of these carts a couple of months ago for my surface plate which now lives in the top compartment.


+1 on those HF 4 and 5 drawer carts.  I have one each at my lathes and Tormach mill.  Really good price and quality.

Bruce


----------



## alloy

I got this from Harbor Freight today.

I'm about to go back to work after a stroke and my employer offered to let me run parts on my machining center at home. I got this to keep their tooling seperate from mine.

Anyway I've got a craftsman box, snap on, and a matco bottom boxes and this is nicer.  Worth every bit of the $280 I paid for it.


----------



## Weldo

alloy said:


> I've got a craftsman box, snap on, and a matco bottom boxes and this is nicer. Worth every bit of the $280 I paid for it.



That's quite the endorsement!


----------



## Ianagos

Out of my craftsman Kennedy and other boxes the harbor freight one I got is much better so far. For all the hype Kennedy boxes get I hate it the most. Terrible pulls and drawers can’t take much weight.


----------



## BGHansen

Ianagos said:


> Out of my craftsman Kennedy and other boxes the harbor freight one I got is much better so far. For all the hype Kennedy boxes get I hate it the most. Terrible pulls and drawers can’t take much weight.


I have a Craftsman box from my parents for a Christmas present.  It was something like a "Home Shop Edition" or something like that which was the cheaper version.  I started filling it with hand tools; primarily a $350 set of Craftsman combo wrenches and sockets.  It started rolling around like crap, the casters were bending the sheet metal on the bottom.  Threw bigger casters on a piece of 3/4" ply which fixed that, but the drawer glides are garbage.  Sheet metal "C" bent into the cabinet and edge of drawers with an "I" in between.  Continually had the drawers skip the track.

One thing I can say about the Chinese is they know how to make drawer glides.  I built our kitchen cabinetry and used 3/4 extension Amerock 22" glides that were around $7 per drawer.  These have a caster wheel on each half of the track, were rated at around 75 lbs.  I bought a couple of full-extension glides for an entertainment center at something like $25 each (early 1990's).

Couple of years ago I built cabinets in the shop and picked up ball bearing, full extension 22" drawer glides for $5 each.  They are good for 150 lbs. each.  They are the same 1/2" width of the 3/4 extension glides so have been replacing them in the kitchen.  They work great, though I understand the economics of supporting the Chinese economy instead of ours.  Maybe we should send China a $14,000,000,000,000 bill for the Corona mess. . .

Bruce


----------



## WobblyHand

Today I received some tooling from All Industrial and Shars.  3-25mm 5C collet set, 5C collet blocks, some junk end mills, and a set of V-blocks.  I don't know why, but I was surprised at how much room it all took up.  Going to have to get creative storing it all.  Not deluding myself into thinking it's top shelf, but it all looks serviceable.  That's good enough for me.


----------



## ACHiPo

devils4ever said:


> I just received a Starrett 91B tap wrench.
> 
> View attachment 321687


You'll like that!


----------



## MontanaLon

I've been watching Ebay and picking up used and NOS endmills. Picked up 5 roughers 1/2",  2 3/4" and 2 1-1/4" for less than $20. They are all USA made and have no wear on them that I can see. The 1/2" is unique. It is a 3 flute and each of the flutes on the end are different lengths. 

Got 4 Woodruff cutters and some taps for $25. The cutters are unused the taps a little rusty but otherwise brand new. There were also 2 seized up mini drill chicks in the box. A tiny Jacobs and a Pratt keyless. I got them both freed up and made an arbor for the Pratt. Am working on getting it to close fully but if I can't I will likely use it as a pin vise for grinding screws.

To go with that I got a lot of 80 tiny drills. Waiting for those to arrive as well.

Also waiting for 10 various HSS mills to arrive that cost $2.50 each. Most look pristine so I will find out when they get here.

Hard part is putting in a bid I think is fair and then walking away until it is over so I don't get sucked into a bidding war. I've won a few, lost a few but am so far happy with what I have gotten.


----------



## Weldo

Ebay is a great resource for sure.  I've gotten great deals on lots of stuff.


----------



## Weldo

I just stimulated the hell out of the economy!




Wooooo!




I've been wanting a better way to cut metal for a while now.  All I have is a 4.5" grinder and a hacksaw.  The size of this little saw is definitely limiting but for most of the stuff I cut it's gonna be great, plus it takes up very little room in a cramped workspace.  I picked this up from Trick-Tools.com.

The manual it came with is so-so.  It's mostly pictograms like IKEA stuff, not super clear.  But it did come with a wiring diagram and full exploded view.  I appreciate that.






And take it with a grain of salt I guess, but I also like stuff like this...




It gives me confidence that the people who built the tool care about their job and the parts they produce.

Looking forward to cutting some metal!


----------



## Buffalo21

I have a HE&M NG160 saw, I love it. Mine does not like the 10-14 blades, but works great with the 14 tooth blades.


----------



## Weldo

Buffalo21 said:


> I have a HE&M NG160 saw, I love it. Mine does not like the 10-14 blades, but works great with the 14 tooth blades.



Right on.  Ultimately I like the smallest one because of the price.  After the 782 they get expensive fast.  It would have been nice to get one that's a little bigger but a big selling point for me was the possibility of using it as horizontal or vertical.  The NG saws run the blade in the opposite direction making use in a vertical orientation impossible.

I also like the HE&M company. My very first real job in metalworking was running a big saw like this:




It took a 14'6" blade and had automatic feeding.  I ran the saw on night shift, supplying a few dozen CNC mills and lathes.  It was actually a very enjoyable gig!  And the saw was awesome!  I remember cutting chunks of 6" round aluminum.  The guy on day shift had a pretty fine tooth blade installed, I forget, might've been variable pitch 4-6.  I found a blade in the tool room that was 2-3 and it swapped it in.  It really made a difference!  Cutting time was almost cut in half, no pun intended.

Another time we were cutting 6" rounds of 17-4PH stainless.  Each cut took about an hour!  I requested we buy a carbide tooth blade specifically for that material but it never got ordered...

Good times.


----------



## Aaron_W

Cabin fever got the better of me today. I put on my space suit and ventured out to pick this little guy up. I love the oil can holder in the base with the vintage oil can, my will power was holding firm until I saw that, then it was all over. 




It is an Excel 12" power hacksaw. The Covel Manufacturing Company (Atlas after 1968) also made these for Sears who sold them under the Craftsman brand until at least the 1970s.

I think this particular saw is pre-1950 because the tag says Excel Hack Saw by Covel Mfg Co. Looking at old advertisements it appears that Covel Mfg Co was dropped from the ads in 1950 instead listing them under the Excel Tool Company. I haven't been able to find much on the Excel branded saws to confirm my hypothesis, as the Craftsman ones seem to be much more common.


----------



## cdcava

Aaron_W said:


> Cabin fever got the better of me today. I put on my space suit and ventured out to pick this little guy up. I love the oil can holder in the base with the vintage oil can, my will power was holding firm until I saw that, then it was all over.
> 
> View attachment 322317
> 
> 
> It is an Excel 12" power hacksaw. The Covel Manufacturing Company (Atlas after 1968) also made these for Sears who sold them under the Craftsman brand until at least the 1970s.
> 
> I think this particular saw is pre-1950 because the tag says Excel Hack Saw by Covel Mfg Co. Looking at old advertisements it appears that Covel Mfg Co was dropped from the ads in 1950 instead listing them under the Excel Tool Company. I haven't been able to find much on the Excel branded saws to confirm my hypothesis, as the Craftsman ones seem to be much more common.



What sheer coincidence.. I literally just saw this tool (Not sure if the brand is the same, but the form and even the color are exactly the same) on craigslist or marketplace just yesterday!


----------



## Weldo

That saw is super cool!  Got any more pictures?  The old power hack saws have a definite “shaper” vibe in that they are fun to watch while working!


----------



## Aaron_W

cdcava said:


> What sheer coincidence.. I literally just saw this tool (Not sure if the brand is the same, but the form and even the color are exactly the same) on craigslist or marketplace just yesterday!



Opposite side of the country so unlikely we were looking at the same saw. The Craftsman saws seem to be fairly common they must have sold them 30+ years. The color is the more unusual part because I'm pretty sure this isn't the factory color, and the Craftsman saws were grey. Other than Miller welders I don't see many industrial tools that are light blue.



Weldo said:


> That saw is super cool!  Got any more pictures?  The old power hack saws have a definite “shaper” vibe in that they are fun to watch while working!



Agree, there is something mesmerizing about watching the ca-chunk, ca-chunk, ca-chunk of shapers, power hacksaws, steam engines etc.

Sorry no more photos handy. I tried to attach a short video of it running but it didn't work.


----------



## WobblyHand

Ordered a maple table top and a pair of adjustable legs for the top from Grizzly.  Freight is being discounted until April 30th.  Saved $75.

Need a sturdy work surface in my shop.  I didn't even have a surface to mount my 6" vise, this table will fix that problem!  Only 60" x 30" x 1.75", for 2 big reasons.  1) It has to fit in the space, and 2) About 100 lbs is my limit for manhandling the table top down a rickety set of stairs.  Bigger, although better, doesn't satisfy 1 & 2.


----------



## matthewsx

These popped up on Craigslist this morning for $50.







Switzerland....

John


----------



## matthewsx

Shopping at home. 

Some of the machinist stuff my dad had hidden away in his parts bin.




 John


----------



## DavidR8

Had five tool holders and some inserts arrive today. 
Glad for the tool holders. Changing tools was getting old fast. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## alloy

Bought these today.  Got two this morning, was impressed enough I went back and bought 3 more for a total of 5.

Very sturdy, go together easily.  I definitely recommend them.

The second shelf by the stairs I loaded with Nova parts.  A-arms, front brakes, really heavy stuff and the shelves really can take it.









						Husky 5-Tier Heavy Duty Steel Garage Storage Shelving Unit in Silver (48 in. W x 78 in. H x 24 in. D) MR482478W5
					

You can assemble this heavy-duty steel shelving unit vertically as shelves or horizontally as a workbench. Its neutral color goes with everything in your home. You can adjust this multipurpose unit's shelves in 1.5 in. increments to fit any storage need. It features a rivet lock system that...



					www.homedepot.com


----------



## matthewsx

alloy said:


> Bought these today.  Got two this morning, was impressed enough I went back and bought 3 more for a total of 5.
> 
> Very sturdy, go together easily.  I definitely recommend them.
> 
> The second shelf by the stairs I loaded with Nova parts.  A-arms, front brakes, really heavy stuff and the shelves really can take it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Husky 5-Tier Heavy Duty Steel Garage Storage Shelving Unit in Silver (48 in. W x 78 in. H x 24 in. D) MR482478W5
> 
> 
> You can assemble this heavy-duty steel shelving unit vertically as shelves or horizontally as a workbench. Its neutral color goes with everything in your home. You can adjust this multipurpose unit's shelves in 1.5 in. increments to fit any storage need. It features a rivet lock system that...
> 
> 
> 
> www.homedepot.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 322494
> 
> View attachment 322495



Nothing like good heavy duty shelves to get the workshop organized. The wire will let all that good oil and grease drip down rather than wood absorbing it or steel getting slippery.

john


----------



## hman

matthewsx -
You need to get'em recalibrated!  They're WAY out of date.
(Other than that - Great buy!)


----------



## middle.road

Aaron_W said:


> Cabin fever got the better of me today. I put on my space suit and ventured out to pick this little guy up. I love the oil can holder in the base with the vintage oil can, my will power was holding firm until I saw that, then it was all over.
> 
> View attachment 322317
> 
> 
> It is an Excel 12" power hacksaw. The Covel Manufacturing Company (Atlas after 1968) also made these for Sears who sold them under the Craftsman brand until at least the 1970s.
> 
> I think this particular saw is pre-1950 because the tag says Excel Hack Saw by Covel Mfg Co. Looking at old advertisements it appears that Covel Mfg Co was dropped from the ads in 1950 instead listing them under the Excel Tool Company. I haven't been able to find much on the Excel branded saws to confirm my hypothesis, as the Craftsman ones seem to be much more common.


That is Cool! 
Can't wait for the rebuild thread.


----------



## Aaron_W

middle.road said:


> That is Cool!
> Can't wait for the rebuild thread.



Eventually, I have so many projects on my to do list.     It has a tilting drill press vise, so I'm going to need to make a new vise if I am to cut angles. While the wrong type it is a pretty nice vise, probably worth what I paid for the saw based on ebay prices anyway.


----------



## alloy

I went to horrible freight today to buy some more plastic bins and they had nothing on the shelf.  So my wife suggested we go to dollar tree and got these for a $1 each.  They are great.  



I also loaded up the shelf I bought.   Got the entire front suspension, steering box, and leaf springs on one shelf.  They can definitely take the weight.


----------



## JimDawson

Picked up a new toy today.  We bought this because we want to bring our sheet metal work in-house to decrease costs, and be able to easily build prototype parts.  The die you see in it is for the first project, just getting it set up.  Up until now we have been using our hand pumped H frame shop press for this job, that's a lot of hand pressing, normally about 400 pieces per run, both ends, so 800 operations.  This is going to make life much easier.




1976 Promecam hydraulic press brake.  This is the same as an Amada press brake, Amada built these under license from Promecam.

4 foot, 25 ton.

Almost like new, has seen very little use I think.  Has a Tektronix asset tag on it.  My son said he never saw it in the shop out there when he worked there, so has most likely has been sitting in a warehouse for several (at least 20) years.  Wired it into our RPC and it fired right up.

As much as I hate hydraulic operated machines, I really wanted a hydraulic press brake.  They are impossible to jam.  A mechanical press brake (or punch press) can be jammed at the bottom of the stroke and they are a PITA to get unstuck.  As a press maintenance guy I have had to unstick a number of them over the years, and have the bent pipe wrenches to prove it.

It has a feature that I have never seen before, a micrometer shut height adjustment calibrated in 0.001'' increments that is adjustable independent of the pressure adjustment.  That silver knob, center left in the picture attached to the blue box, is a micrometer thimble about 3'' diameter.  Operates by a hydraulic servo valve, not exactly sure how that all works.  I need to study the hydraulic drawings a bit. We got all of the original documentation and manuals with it.

It originally had some kind of ''servo'' backstop, but that had been removed at some point, but some of the controls hardware is still there (antique electronics, circa 1976).  So I have been tasked with building a new servo backstop and converting the entire machine into a full on CNC press brake.  The good news is that my current project is crated and ready for shipping, so I can jump on this one.  Then I need to get my CNC plasma operational so we can cut the sheet metal parts to fold up with our new press brake.  I'll post a build thread on both of those projects soon.


----------



## Weldo

Lookin good!  It's always nice to increase productivity while decreasing manual labor!


----------



## devils4ever

I bought a storage shelf unit from Amazon that I needed to store my stock. I had all this stock sitting on the floor and leaning against the wall previously. I like this unit because it has solid shelves which makes storing smaller pieces of stock possible without them falling through the wire mesh type.

The unit is made in Germany and seems very well made.


----------



## Weldo

That is awesome @devils4ever!  It's so nice when you can just walk up and plainly see all the crap you have!


----------



## devils4ever

Weldo said:


> That is awesome @devils4ever!  It's so nice when you can just walk up and plainly see all the crap you have!



Exactly!


----------



## Aukai

That's a nice rig Jim.

Alloy, looks to be a new 9" leaf spring housing, you didn't want a back brace?


----------



## alloy

It is a 9" for the Nova. 

 I'm just running an LS2 with a light car, didn't think I needed a brace for the street.

Nice toy Jim


----------



## Aukai

What year Nova, still injected?


----------



## alloy

It's a 70.         I bought it unfinished and he had a carb on it.  The car needs more than  I wanted to do, but when I dug into it I found out how totally incompetent he was at working on cars.  There is a thread on it here somewhere.

After I get it back together I'll do a throttle body injection, but for now I just want to get it going this summer.  Having a stroke didn't help my plans for it.


----------



## extropic

alloy said:


> It's a 70.         I bought it unfinished and he had a carb on it.  The car needs more than  I wanted to do, but when I dug into it I found out how totally incompetent he was at working on cars.  There is a thread on it here somewhere.
> 
> After I get it back together I'll do a throttle body injection, but for now I just want to get it going this summer.  Having a stroke didn't help my plans for it.



I'm pleased to read about your shop organization activities.
As much for the indication of vigorous physical activity as for the obvious utility.


----------



## Aukai

I got it now....


----------



## DavidR8

My thread mic arrived today. 
Only one issue. The size of the etching on the anvils requires eyes that I might have had 30 years ago... sigh


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Aaron_W

DavidR8 said:


> My thread mic arrived today.
> Only one issue. The size of the etching on the anvils requires eyes that I might have had 30 years ago... sigh
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I have a similar affliction.  

It was a great day when I found out they make safety reading glasses

Safety plus readers


My daily use readers are +1.25 or 1.5 but for doing really fine work I like to have a pair of +2 or 2.5 available.


The old Sherlock Holmes special is also handy at times. 

Magnifying glass

The one in the link was just handy and cheap but I have one similar to this I picked up locally and they are really handy for tiny print.


----------



## DavidR8

Aaron_W said:


> I have a similar affliction.
> 
> It was a great day when I found out they make safety reading glasses
> 
> Safety plus readers
> 
> 
> My daily use readers are +1.25 or 1.5 but for doing really fine work I like to have a pair of +2 or 2.5 available.
> 
> 
> The old Sherlock Holmes special is also handy at times.
> 
> Magnifying glass
> 
> The one in the link was just handy and cheap but I have one similar to this I picked up locally and they are really handy for tiny print.


Thanks Aaron, those look like they will work well for me. Appreciate the link.


----------



## finsruskw

This followed me home the other day
SB 9A
ser# 16490NKR
Cat #8344ZN
Post 1947???
What you see is what I got, Now what????


----------



## DavidR8

finsruskw said:


> This followed me home the other day
> SB 9A
> ser# 16490NKR
> Cat #8344ZN
> Post 1947???
> What you see is what I got, Now what????


Steve Well's SB serial number database puts it as a 1949. Nice find!


----------



## matthewsx

Another Craigslist find, not free but very reasonable.










John


----------



## Aaron_W

matthewsx said:


> Another Craigslist find, not free but very reasonable.
> 
> View attachment 322773
> 
> 
> View attachment 322774
> 
> 
> View attachment 322778
> 
> 
> John



Neat, I thought I was going to get a little die filer like that (different brand) last year, but the seller never replied. 

I've been thinking about ordering one of the kits from Metal Lathe and making my own. I found out you can get the files from Falcon Tools.


----------



## NCjeeper

Sweet die filing machine there Matthew.
I have been wasting the day surfing on E-bay. Scored some large new M42 roughing endmills for cheap. Picked up a new 3/8 carbide double ended chamfer bit for cheap too.


----------



## Dhal22

Some 123 blocks I bought for less than $10 each.


----------



## Aukai

A lot of 20 REX 95s, I made 3 requests for dimensions, and got no answer. I hope they are in the 3/8 range, 3 bucks each, we'll see....


----------



## Aukai

I finally got a response, the bits are 10 1/4", and and 10 3/8 REX 95s. I don't think I need 1/4" blanks, but that makes the 10 3/8s 6 bucks each now.


----------



## pontiac428

1/4" blanks are exactly what you'll need for your fly cutters!


----------



## Aukai

Good point, I do have a Tormac


----------



## GreatOldOne

Little tools... a small ( 6” / 150mm) mitutoyo new old stock rule, and a brand new 100mm starrett adjustable square.


----------



## Dhal22

GreatOldOne said:


> Little tools... a small ( 6” / 150mm) mitutoyo new old stock rule, and a brand new 100mm starrett adjustable square.
> 
> View attachment 323100




Cheap fun.   I love opening packages that I forgot what might be inside.


----------



## Ianagos

Got this little thickness measuring tool. Kinda like a quick caliper heck of a deal only $55 brand new. From amazon so I don’t think it’s a fake.


----------



## vtcnc

CL find. $50. Model No. 103.24280. I don't know if it is original but the 1/2 hp Craftsman motor runs smooth. Saw cuts straight. Looks like PO replaced the urethane wheels at some point in the near past. Only problem is belt tension on the motor allows it to slip when taking heavier cuts. No provision to tighten the belt is in place, so that will be one of the many little quarantine projects this week.


----------



## middle.road

Latest definition of 'Go BIG or Go Home...'


JimDawson said:


> Picked up a new toy today.  We bought this because we want to bring our sheet metal work in-house to decrease costs, and be able to easily build prototype parts.  The die you see in it is for the first project, just getting it set up.  Up until now we have been using our hand pumped H frame shop press for this job, that's a lot of hand pressing, normally about 400 pieces per run, both ends, so 800 operations.  This is going to make life much easier.
> 
> View attachment 322606
> 
> 
> 1976 Promecam hydraulic press brake.  This is the same as an Amada press brake, Amada built these under license from Promecam.
> 
> 4 foot, 25 ton.
> 
> Almost like new, has seen very little use I think.  Has a Tektronix asset tag on it.  My son said he never saw it in the shop out there when he worked there, so has most likely has been sitting in a warehouse for several (at least 20) years.  Wired it into our RPC and it fired right up.
> 
> As much as I hate hydraulic operated machines, I really wanted a hydraulic press brake.  They are impossible to jam.  A mechanical press brake (or punch press) can be jammed at the bottom of the stroke and they are a PITA to get unstuck.  As a press maintenance guy I have had to unstick a number of them over the years, and have the bent pipe wrenches to prove it.
> 
> It has a feature that I have never seen before, a micrometer shut height adjustment calibrated in 0.001'' increments that is adjustable independent of the pressure adjustment.  That silver knob, center left in the picture attached to the blue box, is a micrometer thimble about 3'' diameter.  Operates by a hydraulic servo valve, not exactly sure how that all works.  I need to study the hydraulic drawings a bit. We got all of the original documentation and manuals with it.
> 
> It originally had some kind of ''servo'' backstop, but that had been removed at some point, but some of the controls hardware is still there (antique electronics, circa 1976).  So I have been tasked with building a new servo backstop and converting the entire machine into a full on CNC press brake.  The good news is that my current project is crated and ready for shipping, so I can jump on this one.  Then I need to get my CNC plasma operational so we can cut the sheet metal parts to fold up with our new press brake.  I'll post a build thread on both of those projects soon.


----------



## Aukai

Nice score Bryan


----------



## DavidR8

Drive sleeve bearings for my mill arrived today. 






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hman

David -

Is yours a round column mill?  I've been servicing the spindle on my own Grizzly G1007 (vintage Taiwanese RF-30 clone, current equivalent model G0705).  Bought the same pair of bearings for the drive, plus two tapered roller bearings for the spindle itself - Nachi 30206 and 30207.  Might fine quality bearings!


----------



## DavidR8

@hman indeed it is a round column mill. 
Also have the spindle bearings ready to go. 
Figured I’d do it all in one shot. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hman

Fun project.  I now have mine reassembled.  Used lots of "Red and Tacky."  Very nice level of quiet when it's just idling.  And when milling, there's no more rattling from the spindle, as there was before.  I can actually hear the "hiss" when a carbide cutter is chewing on a steel workpiece.

You've already seen (and liked) my post #2887 in https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...-in-your-shop-today.67833/page-97#post-741280
(I mention now it so that others who're reading this thread can find it if they're interested.)

Also see Rick Sparber's fine article: https://rick.sparber.org/SBR30.pdf
I sure wish I'd found his article before I'd disassembled the quill/spindle!  Especially embarrasing because he and I are friends and have worked together on some other articles.  I'd searched the web a bit, but the info I got through Google was minimal.  So I went "flying blind" ... though slowly and carefully.  Luckily, I didn't run into any problems.

Rick and I will soon be working on "adding in" my benchtop spindle run-in method to his article, as well as noting some differences between his mill and mine.  F'rinstance, his quill anti-rotation stop screw sockets into a small block that rides in the vertical groove on the quill.  My Grizzle does not have such a block.  The "pin" end of my screw is wider than his, and it rides directly in the groove.


----------



## vtcnc

vtcnc said:


> CL find. $50. Model No. 103.24280. I don't know if it is original but the 1/2 hp Craftsman motor runs smooth. Saw cuts straight. Looks like PO replaced the urethane wheels at some point in the near past. Only problem is belt tension on the motor allows it to slip when taking heavier cuts. No provision to tighten the belt is in place, so that will be one of the many little quarantine projects this week.
> 
> View attachment 323219


Had to replace the belt. It was the original Craftsman 45 belt. Now it runs supersmooth. I really want to be able to cut wood and metal with this. So....another project on the list - two speed transmission? 

I saw this video on YT...seems "easy" enough. Famous last words, right?


----------



## DavidR8

vtcnc said:


> Had to replace the belt. It was the original Craftsman 45 belt. Now it runs supersmooth. I really want to be able to cut wood and metal with this. So....another project on the list - two speed transmission?
> 
> I saw this video on YT...seems "easy" enough. Famous last words, right?


Very slick assembly. Any idea what it's called?


----------



## matthewsx

vtcnc said:


> CL find. $50. Model No. 103.24280. I don't know if it is original but the 1/2 hp Craftsman motor runs smooth. Saw cuts straight. Looks like PO replaced the urethane wheels at some point in the near past. Only problem is belt tension on the motor allows it to slip when taking heavier cuts. No provision to tighten the belt is in place, so that will be one of the many little quarantine projects this week.
> 
> View attachment 323219


Nice, very similar to the one my dad left me. With the speed reducer he put on it's prety capable with metal.

John


----------



## matthewsx

DavidR8 said:


> Very slick assembly. Any idea what it's called?



Yep, that's the one I have. Slo Speed Converter.



			Photo Index - Sears | Craftsman - 9-2342 Craftsman Slo-Speed Converter for 10-14" Band Saws | VintageMachinery.org
		


I'm sure it can be made in a home shop with the right tools and patience but it will probably be easier to rig up a 3 phase motor with VFD or a treadmill motor. Neither of those were really options back in the day but can be had pretty cheap now.

John


----------



## MontanaLon

I'll admit I suck. 

Was looking for stuff on Ebay and came across a listing and got it. Here it is. The caliper wasn't included in auction, I put it there for scale. 


Why do I suck? My winning bid, and the only bid was 99 cents. Shipping was $9. 

I really only wanted the counterbores. I checked McMaster's and the biggest tap in the lot 5/8-11x8" lists at $105.56. The largest counterbore $161.58. 

Many of the other taps are $50 or more.


----------



## JimDawson

Nice score!


----------



## speedybtx

excellent find!


----------



## speedybtx

this came in today , I look forward to mirror surfaces!  in the past I used one and oh baby it was great.


----------



## Ianagos

speedybtx said:


> this came in today , I look forward to mirror surfaces! in the past I used one and oh baby it was great.
> View attachment 323532



I use korloy inserts in my same style facemill and the finishes are amazing. I want to try pcd insert but I honestly don’t need any better finishes.


----------



## Janderso

I can't remember if I showed this.
A bench-jeweler's drill press. Vintage around 1930-1940 ish.
Langelier Manufacturing, Providence, RI. It was sold by H. Leach Machinery also in Providence.
Got a 9" Rucker straight edge also. I'll get around to it.


----------



## DavidR8

Most of the bits for my straddle knurler build arrived today!
in the cases are reamers, edge finders, a chamfering endmill and two drill bits.
Just working on the knurls!


----------



## francist

That’ll be interesting. I look forward to seeing how it works out, I’ve been wanting to come up with one for a long time but never get focussed on it for long enough.

-frank


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> That’ll be interesting. I look forward to seeing how it works out, I’ve been wanting to come up with one for a long time but never get focussed on it for long enough.
> 
> -frank


This whole thing started because I want to make a tap wrench a la This Old Tony and need to knurl the handles... this is how it goes down the rabbit hole.


----------



## f350ca

I remember when it seamed I had to buy a tool of some sort for every project I undertook. There'll eventually come a time when you'll have what you need at hand and find the stock in the junk (inventory) pile. 
Looking forward to seeing the knurler David

Greg


----------



## Buffalo21

I bought a dozen “Bessy” style F clamps, they are a Stronghand brand, 9 of them are 5” and 3 of them are 10”, the LWS was blowing them out, they wanted $10/ea for the small ones and $15 for the big ones. The sales manager said if I took them, right then, I could get them for $5/ea, so I bought them.


----------



## Buffalo21

I also bought 50’ of 3/8”-24 B-7 hardened all-thread and (100) 3/8”-24 2H hex nuts, work related. I also got 20’ of 7/16”-20 B-7 hardened all thread and some nuts, to make a few draw bar.


----------



## Aukai

That's a lot of all thread.


----------



## extropic

f350ca said:


> I remember when it seamed *I had to buy a tool of some sort for every project I undertook.* There'll eventually come a time when you'll have what you need at hand and find the stock in the junk (inventory) pile.
> Looking forward to seeing the knurler David
> 
> Greg




Isn't that the point ???


----------



## erikmannie

I paid $620 for 2 days of instruction: “Sheet Metal Forming with Evan Wilcox” on June 13  & 14 at The Crucible in Oakland, CA. There are still 3 spots left in the weekend class if anybody wants to join in on the fun.

The instruction includes gas welding with aluminum, and how to use an English wheel and a planishing hammer.

There is most certainly no room left in my shop for any more tools or machines, so I can only spend my money on tuition and materials.


----------



## alloy

Got these for $150 shipped.  They are both in excellent condition.

Also picked up a set of ER 16 collets.


----------



## Ianagos

alloy said:


> Got these for $150 shipped. They are both in excellent condition.
> 
> Also picked up a set of ER 16 collets.
> 
> 
> View attachment 323637



That’s a good deal. Those micrometers are great.


----------



## HarryJM

Aaron_W said:


> Cabin fever got the better of me today. I put on my space suit and ventured out to pick this little guy up. I love the oil can holder in the base with the vintage oil can, my will power was holding firm until I saw that, then it was all over.
> 
> View attachment 322317
> 
> 
> It is an Excel 12" power hacksaw. The Covel Manufacturing Company (Atlas after 1968) also made these for Sears who sold them under the Craftsman brand until at least the 1970s.
> 
> I think this particular saw is pre-1950 because the tag says Excel Hack Saw by Covel Mfg Co. Looking at old advertisements it appears that Covel Mfg Co was dropped from the ads in 1950 instead listing them under the Excel Tool Company. I haven't been able to find much on the Excel branded saws to confirm my hypothesis, as the Craftsman ones seem to be much more common.


Found this "Covel Excel Power Hacksaws - Floor and Bench Models Users manual and parts list" at Vintage Machinery


			Covel Manufacturing Co. - Publication Reprints - Covel Excel Power Hacksaws - Floor and Bench Models | VintageMachinery.org


----------



## Aaron_W

HarryJM said:


> Found this "Covel Excel Power Hacksaws - Floor and Bench Models Users manual and parts list" at Vintage Machinery
> 
> 
> Covel Manufacturing Co. - Publication Reprints - Covel Excel Power Hacksaws - Floor and Bench Models | VintageMachinery.org



Thank you, I had found something similar but this is a much better quality scan.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a new Starrett 60° fishtail for $15 with free shipping:


----------



## speedybtx

these will be nice   I AM trying to learn grinding HSS lathe bits, mind you ! LOL.  but I need a real backup.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a set of CNC ground HSS 5/16” tool bits. A little expensive at $44.90 delivered.


----------



## francist

Interesting shapes, especially the “FROM 1” and “FROM 2” styles. Let us know how they work out.

-frank


----------



## Buffalo21

speedybtx said:


> these will be nice   I AM trying to learn grinding HSS lathe bits, mind you ! LOL.  but I need a real backup.
> View attachment 323776



i have a setof H B Rouse lathe tools identical to the A R Warner set you show, I alway felt the insert tip stuck out too unsupported, I stopped using them because the tip would break off constantly. I hope that the HSS insert hold up better than the carbide ones.


----------



## erikmannie

francist said:


> Interesting shapes, especially the “FROM 1” and “FROM 2” styles. Let us know how they work out.
> 
> -frank



I can tell you now how they work, because I have bought and used these before.

They are very beautiful and presentable. They are extremely sharp, but require sharpening after a bit of use because they are HSS & I almost always work on mild steel.

Regarding the interesting design of the RH & LH turning & facing bits, the RH turning bit allows for more of a reach, as you can imagine. You can also see that most include a nice chip breaker.

I definitely recommend them for anybody else who is too lazy to grind all of their own HSS lathe tools.

Having said that, I must confess that I usually reach for my indexable insert tooling.


----------



## derfatdutchman

My old magnetic base has seen better days. Bought a Noga articulating arm magnetic base, and since they had Mighty Mag bases on sale added picked up another one which came with a cheap indcator.


----------



## Superburban

Added to my old iron collection today. Needs a blade, and likely an adjustment on the spring. Has a nice sturdy table for use in the vertical position, so that will likely be my main use. I have a nice Carolina saw for my main goto saw.


----------



## Nogoingback

Buffalo21 said:


> i have a setof H B Rouse lathe tools identical to the A R Warner set you show, I alway felt the insert tip stuck out too unsupported, I stopped using them because the tip would break off constantly. I hope that the HSS insert hold up better than the carbide ones.



I've used the Warner tools since I bought my first lathe.  They hold up just fine.  While not as versatile
as grinding your own hss tools, I've gotten good service from them and still use them.   They're also dead simple to sharpen and while not inexpensive initially, they last a long time and Warner provides spare inserts with their kits.
So far I haven't had buy any replacement inserts.


----------



## devils4ever

My Sorensen Center Mike has arrived! Purchased off of eBay for $40 + $15 shipping. Looks to be in excellent condition!


----------



## DavidR8

erikmannie said:


> I bought a set of CNC ground HSS 5/16” tool bits. A little expensive at $44.90 delivered.
> 
> View attachment 323799


What's the purpose of the Form 1 and 2 styles?


----------



## erikmannie

DavidR8 said:


> What's the purpose of the Form 1 and 2 styles?



Turning & facing, and having fun doing it!


----------



## Janderso

alloy said:


> Got these for $150 shipped.  They are both in excellent condition.
> 
> Also picked up a set of ER 16 collets.
> 
> 
> View attachment 323637


You Suck!


----------



## DavidR8

Bought myself a TIG welder 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## alloy

Janderso said:


> You Suck!




Why thank you.  That's the nicest thing anyone has said to me today


----------



## erikmannie

DavidR8 said:


> Bought myself a TIG welder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Maybe you could start a thread on that welder.  Looks to be 225A max, AC/DC and pulse capable:









						TIG225X AC/DC TIG Welder With Pulse
					

The TIG225X AC/DC TIG Welder features the versatility to suit the needs of hobbyists and professional welders alike. Order yours online at PrimeWeld.




					primeweld.com


----------



## Weldo

Congrats on the welder @DavidR8!  That's a big purchase and will give you a lot of capability.

I got something less exciting in the mail today.  

Never got a package with this sticker before! 




I picked up a new blade for my square and some new screws for it.  I went with the TiN coated one for visibility.  The markings are very easy to read.  The parts are PEC from ebay.




I had a PEC combo square years ago from welding school but have since lost the protractor part and the blade.  I've been using an old unbranded blade for a while but I use it enough to want a nicer one.


----------



## speedybtx

some......Metal LOL.

and future projects.  I wish to build a bar stock wobbler first.


----------



## francist

DavidR8 said:


> Bought myself a TIG welder



Wow, you don’t fool around do you?


----------



## DavidR8

I will start a thread @erikmannie. 
I’ll try to chronicle my journey from absolute hack to minimally capable wanna-be 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> Wow, you don’t fool around do you?



I’ve been pining for one for months now. 
I have designs on making some garden structures, trellises etc for our garden. 

Plus I don’t enjoy the smoke and sparks from Mig or stick. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

Weldo said:


> Congrats on the welder @DavidR8! That's a big purchase and will give you a lot of capability.
> 
> I got something less exciting in the mail today.
> 
> Never got a package with this sticker before!
> 
> View attachment 323953
> 
> 
> I picked up a new blade for my square and some new screws for it. I went with the TiN coated one for visibility. The markings are very easy to read. The parts are PEC from ebay.
> 
> View attachment 323954
> 
> 
> I had a PEC combo square years ago from welding school but have since lost the protractor part and the blade. I've been using an old unbranded blade for a while but I use it enough to want a nicer one.



Thanks @Weldo, I’m pretty excited about learning a new skill. 
I’ve been wanting one for months now and well my birthday is coming up 

That’s an interesting ruler design. I like how the numbers are staggered. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DLF

Corona crisis made a lot of people sell their nice tools.

Just bought a 500mm, 0.05mm resolution, Scala (german made) caliper in mint condition.

Very happy with the find 








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Janderso

Davi


DavidR8 said:


> Bought myself a TIG welder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


David,
May you find tig welding to be an easy endeavor.
I struggle with it. I have a good Miller tig welder, I just suck.


----------



## DavidR8

Janderso said:


> Davi
> 
> David,
> May you find tig welding to be an easy endeavor.
> I struggle with it. I have a good Miller tig welder, I just suck.


Thanks Jeff, I expect the learning curve will be pretty vertical!


----------



## erikmannie

Janderso said:


> Davi
> 
> David,
> May you find tig welding to be an easy endeavor.
> I struggle with it. I have a good Miller tig welder, I just suck.


I have spent over 1000 hours welding, and I cannot even make a consistently handsome bead. I can consistently produce a sound weld, but it is nothing that I would photograph and post online. It must take *well over* 1000 hours of practice.

The key to making a beautiful TIG bead seems to be *100%* consistency (arc length, travel speed, torch angle, amount of filler rod added per dip, filler rod angle, keeping the filler rod in the shielding gas at all times, and a steady hand). Near 100% cleanliness is a given. Using a quality vs. cheap import gas lens will eliminate some frustration.

I have concentrated on cleanliness and penetration. I like to weld hot and fast in order to minimize the HAZ. When I fabricate something, the welds are structurally sound, but I almost always grind down my embarrassing welds.

Now in order to _not_ _be off topic_ I just bought a 11 lb. roll of .035" ER70S-6 roll of MIG wire. It was $30.07 delivered.


----------



## Janderso

1,000 hours makes you qualified to have a sound opinion. I agree, cleanliness is so important, you have to be a machine.
One of my problems is I just can't see well. I dip the tungsten and didn't see myself doing it. I have cheaters in my Miller digital elite helmet and still struggle.
Give me a mig job anyday.


----------



## BGHansen

There's a knack to TIG welding that most of us will never have, regardless of hours of practice.  I've got maybe 50 hours under my belt and can make sound welds in steels from 0.020" thick up to around 0.25" thick (200 Amp machine).  My beads are not always pretty, but they hold.  Aluminum is still a work in progress.  Butt or lap joints aren't too bad, inside angle, not so much.

At the old Lansing Plant 3 stamping plant die shop, the "test of the best" was trying to weld together two Werther's candy wrappers.  Must be they are aluminum foil with a plastic film  The challenge was to weld two wrappers together in no more than 3 tries without any burn-throughs plus a good bead.  I was told only two guys ever met the challenge.  Naturally, not a very pertinent test to being a good welder, but some guys just have the knack.

Bruce


----------



## WobblyHand

A couple of things found their way to my house recently.  Some threading wires, and a half dead (carbide) center.




Today a big truck came by and I helped unload it.  With my wife's help, and an assist from gravity, who am I kidding, a gentle free fall, I got this into the basement.  1.75" maple top that weighs 100 lbs.  Allegedly can support over 2000 lbs!  


Finally, a sturdy table to mount a 6 inch vise and a few other things!


----------



## Janderso

erikmannie said:


> I have spent over 1000 hours welding, and I cannot even make a consistently handsome bead. I can consistently produce a sound weld, but it is nothing that I would photograph and post online. It must take *well over* 1000 hours of practice.
> 
> The key to making a beautiful TIG bead seems to be *100%* consistency (arc length, travel speed, torch angle, amount of filler rod added per dip, filler rod angle, keeping the filler rod in the shielding gas at all times, and a steady hand). Near 100% cleanliness is a given. Using a quality vs. cheap import gas lens will eliminate some frustration.
> 
> I have concentrated on cleanliness and penetration. I like to weld hot and fast in order to minimize the HAZ. When I fabricate something, the welds are structurally sound, but I almost always grind down my embarrassing welds.
> 
> Now in order to _not_ _be off topic_ I just bought a 11 lb. roll of .035" ER70S-6 roll of MIG wire. It was $30.07 delivered.


I'm thinking i'll try the lift arc function after I dial in the settings. That will take out one of the fine motor actions.


----------



## Weldo

erikmannie said:


> The key to making a beautiful TIG bead seems to be *100%* consistency (arc length, travel speed, torch angle, amount of filler rod added per dip, filler rod angle, keeping the filler rod in the shielding gas at all times, and a steady hand). Near 100% cleanliness is a given.



You right about that.  Consistency is key.  Awhile back I was thinking about why machine made welds look so much better than hand made welds and the answer is obviously because they are perfectly consistent.  Check out the pic below:




I got this pic from here.  It's a robotic made TIG weld but the reason it looks so amazing is because the robot is able to hold the same exact arc length, travel speed, and filler feed rate for the entirety of the bead.  So to be good at TIG you just have to do that!

Also to stay on topic, I got these today!  Spot drills in 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4"


----------



## DavidR8

These arrived today.







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## speedybtx

Books look very interesting  any chance for pics of the table of contents please ?


----------



## speedybtx

I have a lot of work to do.... I dread it... no, I have anxiety about it.  ok both. lol
I wont start the real work until tommorow.  Work a 12 hour shift, only a little sleep since 7pm Tuesday.

ps nosy people like me might be able to spot an item that's about 53 years old.


----------



## hman

Hmmmm ... Is it that steam engine accessory(?) looking wheeled device just in front of the Remington 20ga shotshells?  Either that, or the little dog - but though similar, that one doesn't quite look like "his master's voice," so I'll stick with the original guess.


----------



## speedybtx

indeed sir!  you are correct   A Mamod accessory. Dad brought home a Steam engine with boiler. I guess when I was about 10yrs old.
Dad was "into" steam, but really only at a level of reading old technical books about the subject.
The dog is a 101 dalmatian lol.  from when the kids were little. it just keeps on keeping on. lol.


----------



## Aukai

The owner of this closed a second shop space he had, and wanted this gone, shipping is double the cost of the machine, and I still have got to figure out powering a 3 phase. I feel like I jumped out of the 2nd story barn loft into the saddle of Hi Ho silver. I don't like heights, and I don't know how to ride a horse. Something just would not let me pass it up, I can't explain it. Built in 1948, thanks to MRWhoopee for the posting.


----------



## extropic

Aukai said:


> The owner of this closed a second shop space he had, and wanted this gone,  . . .  snip



I watched the video and that guy made me crazy with his wild hand movements around the running machine.  From behind the machine, leaning over the uncovered drive works, reaching around and in front of the running blade, to point out the air blower nozzle, is incredibly unsafe.
I hope the next owner has much better safety practices and respect for the danger present.


----------



## DLF

Corona sale part 2:

A nice 84cm (33”) precision edge in excellent condition.

The precision surfaces look scraped and the sides ground. Can anybody confirm that?













Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ianagos

DLF said:


> Corona sale part 2:
> 
> A nice 84cm (33”) precision edge in excellent condition.
> 
> The precision surfaces look scraped and the sides ground. Can anybody confirm that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Doesn’t look like any scraping I’ve ever seen. Looks like some sort decorative flaking possibly.


----------



## Weldo

Bought more stuff!  Every month my credit card rolls over on the 6th and I go kinda low key crazy with tool buying.

2" indicator!  I made a holder to indicate off my lathe carriage over on the quarantine projects thread.  I figured why not a 2" travel indicator?





Finally got me a set of telescoping bore gauges!  This set say "made in the USA" but the quality is not great.  They are very crunchy and sticky though to b fair they are used.  Luckily This Old Tony recently put out a video on this very subject so I now have the unenviable task of disassembling/deburring/oiling/reassembling each and every one of these gauges.  This set had a double for some reason.  From the left, the second and fourth are the same.





And I picked up this cool wall chart from ebay seller "littlelocos".  It has SFPM for any diameter of work for the 10" and 12" Atlas lathe.  Here's the link to it, here




So far for RPM I've just been wingin' it.  I've don't think I've ever even run my lathe in high range!  Looking forward to playing around with this.


----------



## Dhal22

erikmannie said:


> I have spent over 1000 hours welding, and I cannot even make a consistently handsome bead. I can consistently produce a sound weld, but it is nothing that I would photograph and post online. It must take *well over* 1000 hours of practice.
> 
> The key to making a beautiful TIG bead seems to be *100%* consistency (arc length, travel speed, torch angle, amount of filler rod added per dip, filler rod angle, keeping the filler rod in the shielding gas at all times, and a steady hand). Near 100% cleanliness is a given. Using a quality vs. cheap import gas lens will eliminate some frustration.
> 
> I have concentrated on cleanliness and penetration. I like to weld hot and fast in order to minimize the HAZ. When I fabricate something, the welds are structurally sound, but I almost always grind down my embarrassing welds.
> 
> Now in order to _not_ _be off topic_ I just bought a 11 lb. roll of .035" ER70S-6 roll of MIG wire. It was $30.07 delivered.




Don't know what my welding skills would look like now but I welded a lot as a kid.  Took shop classes in highschool because I already knew how to weld, ended up welder of the year 3 times until my younger brother took the title from me when I was a senior.    He still giggles about that (and is a better welder).


----------



## mattthemuppet2

bought a toolbox from a retired machine shop QC guy. He bought them from a machinist at the company but ended up never using them. I originally went there to buy a couple of mics he had posted, but he made me an offer I literally couldn't refuse so i came home with the lot.

Kennedy 526 machinists box



Starrett back plunger DTI



some neat reference books/ charts



a complete 0-6" mic set. There was originally a 3-4" Starrett mic in there, but I bought a Mitutoyo 3-4" on eBay for not much money so it would be a complete set. Silly, but you know..









as well as the Starrett 1.5-8" bore mic in one of the above pics and a Mitutoyo B telescoping bore gauge.

All for $100! Plus I sold my old 0-6" set of mics (mix of import and Mitutoyo/ Japanese made) to a friend for $50 

I also found this pressure washer on the side of the road. Massively overfilled with oil to the point that it was dripping out of the exhaust. tore it down, cleaned everything, put a new filter on and filled it to the correct level with oil and it started 1st try. Changed the oil in the pump and that works great too. Just need to buy a hose/ wand and I'm good to go - will probably have ~$50 into it by the time I'm done.


----------



## devils4ever

mattthemuppet2 said:


> View attachment 324467



That's the same exact Kennedy box that I bought new about 15+ years ago. I think it over $500 now.


----------



## Buffalo21

A 33# spool of .035” Lincoln L-56 mig wire, Hypertherm PM45XP consumables, 2 new Metabo “Flathead” 5” grinders, (40) of the 4-1/2” x 40 grit Plantex flap wheel And (200) of the Walter 4-1/2” x .045” zip wheels


----------



## mattthemuppet2

devils4ever said:


> That's the same exact Kennedy box that I bought new about 15+ years ago. I think it over $500 now.



yes, the funny thing is I didn't really want the tool box as it was large and I don't have much space. It was only after I got it home that I realised what it was. I made some space for it


----------



## BGHansen

POTD was making my main workbench a little easier to use.  My dad used to say, "don't do standing up what you can do sitting down".  Never thought much about it until I hit 60.  Sure is nice to sit at the bench and work instead of standing all day.  My main workbench is a 6' maple-topped bench from a local school that shut down their shop.  It came with a couple of banks of lockers which span 5+ feet of the benchtop.


Love the bench which has storage lockers on a 3/4" sheet of plywood.  The "casters" underneath are 1" steel ball material movers which gave a low-profile to the floor, though they don't roll nearly as smoothly as regular casters.




I didn't show any of the work, but pulled one of the lockers (everything is in the drawers from a previous POTD) and used Creform tubing to make up some legs to support the end of the bench.  I can now sit and draw or fiddle instead of standing all of the time.




Thanks for looking, Bruce


----------



## BGHansen

POTD was making an arbor for a gear cutter (future project on my Tormach).  The ID of the gear cutter measured to a touch over 0.625", so probably 16 mm.

Cutter ID measured 0.628" or 16 mm.




Chucked up what happened to be a 7/8" OD 1018 steel round.  Faced, center drilled and set up to turn between centers.  Plan was to turn a shank to 0.500" so the arbor could be held in an ER20 collet in a TTS tool holder.


Faced, center drilled for turning between centers



Turned around 3" to 0.500".  I usually go with a TNMG (or similar) tool when turning between centers and I'm getting close to the live center.  The RH TNMG tool sets parallel to the surface of the center, so you can dial in pretty close (if you need to).



Parting




Flipped the arbor and faced, center drilled and tap drilled for a 1/4"-20 threaded hole.  It was about this point when I realized I hadn't turned the shoulder for the 16 mm cutter yet. . .  So, changed to a parting tool and turned to 0.628".


Flipped and faced



Center drill



1/4"-20 tap drill



Cutting the shoulder for the gear cutter. . .



Checked fit with the gear cutter, it sets about 0.010" beyond the threaded face of the arbor, so a simple washer will clamp it into place



Using a spiral-flute tap to thread the hole





Next was making a clamp washer for the bottom of the arbor.  Used the same 7/8" 1018 stock as the arbor.  Chucked, faced, center drilled, drilled a 1/4" clearance hole for the clamp bolt, countersunk the hole for a flat-head screw, chamfered the edge and parted.  Flipped and faced the parted surface.

Little tip here from experience.  When I part on my Clausing lathe (which pretty much exclusively has a 5C collet chuck mounted}, I always run a file over the parted edge.  Parting can plow material at the start of the cut and leave a raised lip.  Good luck slipping the material back into a collet after parting unless you remove the lip.


Faced the clamp washer



Center drill



1/4" clearance hole



Countersinking a hole with a 6-flute countersink.  I've had GREAT success with these are <200 RPM speeds.  Lots of squealing at >500 RPM



Chamfering



Parting



Running a file over the freshly parted stock to remove the burr from parting



Flipped and faced the clamp washer



All of the parts



Assembled




I purposely made the arbor too long as it's easier to remove excess material then add it.  Still have some other work to do before it gets used.  I have a project in the works cutting helical gears.  That will require rotating the work as the table moves.  I have a universal dividing head which I could mount on the Bridgeport, figure out the gear combination needed for the proper rotation with translation, but going to try it first on the Tormach with a 4th axis.  Seems like it'll be easier to mount my 4th axis on an angle plate at a 45, then program the X/Z/A axis moves.  More to follow . . .

Thanks for looking,

Bruce


----------



## hman

Matt: "All for $100!" ... and then the pressure washer!

DOUBLE SUCKAGE!!!!!!


----------



## Aaron_W

BGHansen said:


> POTD was making my main workbench a little easier to use.  My dad used to say, "don't do standing up what you can do sitting down".  Never thought much about it until I hit 60.  Sure is nice to sit at the bench and work instead of standing all day.  My main workbench is a 6' maple-topped bench from a local school that shut down their shop.  It came with a couple of banks of lockers which span 5+ feet of the benchtop.
> 
> 
> Love the bench which has storage lockers on a 3/4" sheet of plywood.  The "casters" underneath are 1" steel ball material movers which gave a low-profile to the floor, though they don't roll nearly as smoothly as regular casters.
> View attachment 324519
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't show any of the work, but pulled one of the lockers (everything is in the drawers from a previous POTD) and used Creform tubing to make up some legs to support the end of the bench.  I can now sit and draw or fiddle instead of standing all of the time.
> View attachment 324520
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking, Bruce




Those make for some nice under bench storage. I have a couple of the tall 6 foot lockers for outside storage, but I would need a really tall stool to use them under a bench.


----------



## hman

Bruce -

I do like the idea of a sit-down workbench.  But on the other hand, I think I personally spend much too much time sitting down.  I've reached a compromise by having both sit-down and stand-up work bench areas.


----------



## speedybtx

Vertex 6" RT just arrived ....this should be fun in the future, and it is a project itself, the mounting of a chuck...lol
now its chuck hunting season!  (Chukar season over)

So much more manageable. Weighs less than the Phase II  I used to have!
My decsion was based in large part from info found here on the forums, so thank you


----------



## DavidR8

speedybtx said:


> Vertex 6" RT just arrived ....this should be fun in the future, and it is a project itself, the mounting of a chuck...lol
> now its chuck hunting season!  (Chukar season over)
> 
> So much more manageable. Weighs less than the Phase II  I used to have!
> My decsion was based in large part from info found here on the forums, so thank you
> View attachment 324798


Looks like a quality piece. Where did you purchase?


----------



## francist

I had the chance to twiddle a small 4” Vertex at KMS a couple years ago. Boy, did it ever feel smooth! At the time I couldn’t justify the $425 they wanted for it and I’m not sure I could now either, but it was night and day compared to the lower-priced one I have now.

-frank


----------



## speedybtx

From Eisen on eBay


----------



## utterstan

I got a 2 in endmill 

Sent from my SM-A102W using Tapatalk


----------



## Stonebriar

Phase II 10" RT,  I already have a smaller 6" I use when I can.


----------



## Logan 400

I was checking cl for a small bandsaw. Had one listed for 200.00. I looked at hf and a couple other places then went back to cl to see the same bandsaw for 125.00. I went to look at it and brought it home for 100.00. it needs a little TLC but it will work for me 
As listed.


In my pickup.


----------



## Logan 400

Logan 400 said:


> I was checking cl for a small bandsaw. Had one listed for 200.00. I looked at hf and a couple other places then went back to cl to see the same bandsaw for 125.00. I went to look at it and brought it home for 100.00. it needs a little TLC but it will work for me
> As listed.
> View attachment 325143
> 
> In my pickup.
> View attachment 325144


Thanks for looking.
Jay


----------



## Logan 400

I made my first cuts with the bandsaw today. I am very pleased. I cut some angle and a piece of 3  x  3/16 ". Then cut a 1" piece off the 2 x 3. Now to build a stand for it.


Thanks for looking.
Jay


----------



## Ianagos

Got a small air compressor for the shop. Only 30cfm 7.5hp pressure lube pump copy of a sailor Beal 707. Hopefully should last me for a long time to come. I got the filters on order and picked up some fresh oil.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought 20 CCMT (carbide) inserts that I use to cut (bore, turn, etc.) steel on the lathe.

I also bought some 1/16” C-04 low fuming bronze as well as Gasflux Type B Bronze paste flux. These work together for brazing thin steel tubing.

Finally, I bought a set of Park Tool needle nosed pliers. I broke my old one last weekend.


----------



## Kiwi Canuck

WobblyHand said:


> Today a big truck came by and I helped unload it.  With my wife's help, and an assist from gravity, who am I kidding, a gentle free fall, I got this into the basement.  1.75" maple top that weighs 100 lbs.  Allegedly can support over 2000 lbs!
> View attachment 324043
> 
> Finally, a sturdy table to mount a 6 inch vise and a few other things!



I'm not sure if anyone else noticed, but you have that table up the wrong way up, they work better if you flip it, so the wooden part is on the top.



David.


----------



## WobblyHand

Kiwi Canuck said:


> I'm not sure if anyone else noticed, but you have that table up the wrong way up, they work better if you flip it, so the wooden part is on the top.
> 
> View attachment 325325
> 
> David.


Always a wiseguy  in the crowd!  Here, right side up!


----------



## Nogoingback

WobblyHand said:


> Always a wiseguy  in the crowd! Here, right side up!
> View attachment 325337




Good to see you got your work bench sorted.   
It's topped with a great looking vise as well.


----------



## Gaffer

I splurged and upgraded my lantern tool post to an Aloris AXA, and some additional tool holders. I love it!

Aloris has 20% off and free shipping through May30th. That’s what drove my decision to buy it.


----------



## finsruskw

Logan 400 said:


> I was checking cl for a small bandsaw. Had one listed for 200.00. I looked at hf and a couple other places then went back to cl to see the same bandsaw for 125.00. I went to look at it and brought it home for 100.00. it needs a little TLC but it will work for me
> As listed.
> View attachment 325143
> 
> In my pickup.
> View attachment 325144


Just like the Delta I practicaly had to give away to get rid of.
Could never get it to cut straight no matter what $15 blade I installed.


----------



## Logan 400

finsruskw said:


> Just like the Delta I practicaly had to give away to get rid of.
> Could never get it to cut straight no matter what $15 blade I installed.


That's what the guy told me about this saw. I adjusted the blade guide rollers and the clamp fence and now it cuts straight vertically and horizontal.
Jay


----------



## DLF

I just received my Miller Digital Infinity welding hood. 

I hope it works as good as it looks 

The CAT decals were totally worth the extra 50$







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

Picked up this brand new floor mount bender from FB Marketplace for $75. Retail locally is $170. 
Looking to make some trellisis (trelli?) for the garden. And I'm sure it will be used for other things


----------



## derfatdutchman

After years of sweeping an indicator to tram my mill head I bought a spindle tramming square. All I can say is why didn’t I buy one years ago!


----------



## erikmannie

I just bought another 2 lbs. of 1/16” LFB (low fuming bronze) because I am working on a project where I am brazing a lot of thin steel tubing.


----------



## Gaffer

I've been looking for a used quality bench grinder and finally found one on Craigslist I could afford - $150. It's missing a few parts but nothing I can't make and they don't affect its function. Got it home and wired, and it is fantastic! No vibration and quiet. It has a coarse cone-shaped grinding wheel on one side and a buffing wheel on the other, so I'll need to get my hands on new wheels as I dive into grinding HSS lathe tools for my SB 9".


----------



## Aukai

Solid stand too


----------



## GreatOldOne

Eclipse 231 v-blocks with clamps


Bernard parallel pliers.


----------



## DavidR8

My knurl wheels finally arrived. 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Z2V

I picked up a Mitutoyo Mag base with a Compac indicator off eBay for a great package price. Both are spotless, and unmarked.


----------



## WobblyHand

My PM25MV arrived.  


Happy and a little overwhelmed right now.


----------



## JRaut

I got me a new-to-me 6” 6-jaw chuck!

Seems the previous owner used it for turning graphite rods, so it was FILTHY. Took several hours and about a roll of shop towels to clean up. Good news is that graphite is super soft, so virtually zero wear on any of the innards.

Made in the Los Angeles area by QU Industrial; I’d never heard of the before, but it seems like a very high quality chuck. Hardened and ground everywhere.

It came with a back plate that fit my lathe, and has a Set-Tru feature and reversible jaws; I think I’ll get some pretty darn good use out of it!


----------



## DLF

Storage tray for BT30 tool-holders









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fernballan

JRaut said:


> I got me a new-to-me 6” 6-jaw chuck!
> 
> Seems the previous owner used it for turning graphite rods, so it was FILTHY. Took several hours and about a roll of shop towels to clean up. Good news is that graphite is super soft, so virtually zero wear on any of the innards.
> 
> Made in the Los Angeles area by QU Industrial; I’d never heard of the before, but it seems like a very high quality chuck. Hardened and ground everywhere.
> 
> It came with a back plate that fit my lathe, and has a Set-Tru feature and reversible jaws; I think I’ll get some pretty darn good use out of it!
> 
> View attachment 326431
> View attachment 326432


Looking nice

Skickat från min I4312 via Tapatalk


----------



## Aukai

I have been practicing, and making new HSS tools on the 2 x 48 Jet belt sander. One of my difficulties is the back rake moves the belt over on the platen. If I track the belt over, without side load it will track over too close to the table. I thought to myself, self touch the back rake on the white AO wheels on the bench grinder. It actually did well, 8" wheel so not too much radius,,,,BUT when it was time to dress the wheel, POOF powder EVERY damn where. There is no port on the guard housing, so I put the vacuum right at the wheel opening, very little improvement, still a mess within 4' of the machine, so I said Hell no, not happening. I went to one of Mikey's spots, and ordered CBN wheels, and another light for my mill.


----------



## Aaron_W

Aukai said:


> I have been practicing, and making new HSS tools on the 2 x 48 Jet belt sander. One of my difficulties is the back rake moves the belt over on the platen. If I track the belt over, without side load it will track over too close to the table. I thought to myself, self touch the back rake on the white AO wheels on the bench grinder. It actually did well, 8" wheel so not too much radius,,,,BUT when it was time to dress the wheel, POOF powder EVERY damn where. There is no port on the guard housing, so I put the vacuum right at the wheel opening, very little improvement, still a mess within 4' of the machine, so I said Hell no, not happening. I went to one of Mikey's spots, and ordered CBN wheels, and another light for my mill.




I've come close to buying a set of these for tool grinding several times. I always come back to the money spent on the wheels would go a long ways toward a 2" belt sander. I'm interested to see what you think of them, and how you like grinding a tool on a CBN wheel vs your belt sander. It might help me overcome my indecision.


----------



## Aukai

I still like the belt, it's flat, and quick, I still need to mount the CBN wheels....


----------



## Aaron_W

Aukai said:


> I still like the belt, it's flat, and quick, I still need to mount the CBN wheels....




I'll wait, I'm patient.


----------



## aliva

Wanted one of these for while, just have figure out how to get it off the trailer


----------



## aliva

Found this on eBay, now just get it off the trailer.
View attachment 326696
View attachment 326696
View attachment 326696


----------



## Dhal22

aliva said:


> Wanted one of these for while, just have figure out how to get it off the trailer
> View attachment 326695




Engine hoist?


----------



## Aaron_W

Printed in 1921 , 5 volumes of a 6 volume set, the missing volume covers machine drawing, auto work and an index. For a little less than $40 shipped these looked interesting. They are in nice shape with that great old book look and feel. I find old text books much more useful than books written for hobbyists.


----------



## Aukai

Nice score.


----------



## Buffalo21

aliva said:


> Wanted one of these for while, just have figure out how to get it off the trailer
> View attachment 326695


3,000 Harbor Freight 6 ton jackstands,.................


----------



## BGHansen

A number of eBay wins over the last few months.  First was a Sorensen 8" center mike.  Little bit of buyer's remorse on this one.  Was dinking around on eBay and did a spontaneous search for "sorensen center mike" and this one popped up for $25 shipped.  Quick did the buy it now without looking it over very well.  It showed up a week later and wouldn't you know it, the fine adjust clamp for the vernier wasn't there.  Wasn't in the photos either so my bad for not looking it over.  On the other hand, I already had a 13" Sorensen and the 8" without the vernier adjust still works.  In fact, it works a little faster, but I learned my lesson. . .   I could make a vernier clamp, or move the one on the 13" to the 8" and vice versa, but it'll most likely stay as is.









Next was a couple of sets of carbide hole saws.  Recall these being around $25 delivered.  Seller on eBay is named something like "stm_surplus".  Don't know where they get all of their stuff, but they list a ton of machine tool stuff on eBay.  Must have stumbled onto a case of these as they ran at least 10 auctions for these hole saws.




Won a couple of auctions for some raw stock.  The 303 stainless is 3/4" diameter, nice to have around for whatever.  I had a plan for one of the two large round cut-offs.  Made one into a chuck backing plate for my Tormach's 4th axis (posted the work in POTD).  Other one will hold a shelf to the floor for now.






I know electronic edge finders don't account for spindle run out, but what the heck for $10 shipped.  This one is a Borite with a 1/2" shank.  I already had one at my Bridgeport/Jet mill tool box, this one is at the Tormach.  These light up only, no tone like the import ones with a 20 mm shank.  Frankly, I'll probably never use it on the Tormach since I have a passive probe, so another case of buying stuff I really don't need.  I have a buddy who's getting his shop set up in a 60' x 80' barn, will end up being a shop-warming gift.




Picked up a couple of new 7" x 3/4" silicon carbide grinding wheels which will fit on my Milwaukee Toolmaster surface grinder if I ever decide to make a fixture for grinding carbide lathe tools.  These were $25 for the pair.




Picked up some 8-32, 1/4"-20 and 5/16"-18 roll form taps for the Tormach.  I've had really good luck with these in aluminum.  Tap drill sizes are different than standard cutting taps, but they don't make chips and apparently make a stronger thread.






Picked up an ER32 collet tool holder and a 3/8" end mill holder for the Tormach for $50 shipped off eBay.  Tormach sells the ER32 for $50, end mill holder for $22, so not a steal but a fair price.  I've got 6 of the ER32's for the Tormach, will try to show restraint on buying any others as the machine is really more suited for 3/8" and smaller end mills that are held well enough in smaller ER20 collets.




Happened to hit eBay and saw a buy it now for an 8" 4th-axis 5C collet chuck for $120 delivered.  Tormach sells them for $225.  Covid gave me some anxiety over this one as I won it in mid-May.  Seller shipped from AZ to MI the next day.  It made it to the USPS center in Indianapolis 2 days later, then showed "in transit to next location" for 2 weeks.  I was about to go to our local post office to check on it when it showed up on the door step.  I'm guessing Tormach buys these directly from China as the storage box is a crap design.  The dividers were all glued in place, key word being "were".  It's all good now.

Bit of an interesting design on the collet chuck.  The clamping nut up top bears against the face of the collet to shove it down into the chuck's taper to clamp on the work.  The bottom end has a compression spring to help push the collet back up when the top nut is loosened.  The kit comes with a 25 mm 5C collet and a ground MT3-25 mm set up bar to center the chuck on the 4th axis.  I'll use the same bar to set up my 3-jaw on the 4th also.

I actually have a plan for this one.  I'm going to take a stab at making some helical gears which will require the 4th axis to be mounted at a 45.  Have a tilting mill table for that, just need to work out how to mount the 4th to the table first.








Thanks for looking,

Bruce


----------



## Diecutter

Don't want to be boring, but I just bought these on Ebay.  Could not resist the boring head for only $25 shipped.  Turns out it's from Taiwan, well machined, and the stain came off with WD40.


----------



## Buffalo21

Some of those boring bars are not too bad, some are nothing more than shipping box ballast.


----------



## projectnut

I think I hit the mother load for Carbide end mills.  A little more than a month ago There was a conversation on another board about carbide end mills.  One of the members was asking the price for used carbide at the scrap yard.  Apparently he had purchased a large number of "supposedly" used carbide end mills from a local manufacturer.  His original intent was to sort through them, save a few hundred for his own use and dispose of the remainder. 

Much to his surprise on inspection he found 90+% were either NIB or so lightly used there were no signs of wear.  He offered them up to other members for $1.00 each plus shipping.  I inquired about some 1/4" and 3/8" and promptly forgot about it.  A couple weeks ago he emailed back he had a few other goodies if I was interested.  He said he would pack a small flat rate box with as many items as would fit for $85.00.  I agreed and sent the money to him using PayPal.  

Again I put it in the back of my mind and went about my daily business.  Today we got back in town and my wife checked the mail.  She said there was a heavy box for me.  I opened it to find a pleasant surprise.  All together there were 75 end mills ranging in size from 1/16" to 3/8", 12 carbide burrs from 1/16" to 1/4" and 48 carbide TPG inserts.  All the inserts and 60+ of the end mills are brand new still in their original containers.  I think I now have a lifetime supply of small carbide end mills, burrs, and TPG inserts.


----------



## Diecutter

Buffalo21 said:


> Some of those boring bars are not too bad, some are nothing more than shipping box ballast.


Just received them after posting.  There were many sets on Ebay, so I picked the one from Anytime tools for $24.33 since I had bought from them before.  The brazing was much better than the photo suggests and each shank even had a plastic protective sleeve.  Received them in a couple days. Guess these were the not too bad ones which I agree with you are at the high end of the spectrum.


----------



## Aukai

Aaron the CBN wheels are awesome, but I would not give up the 2" belt. I did a back cut on generic HSS, it went real quick. The Super Mo Max M42 was tougher, but still a good cut. The wheels are a little challenging to true up, my Arbor has a circle clip for a stop on the inside of the shaft. I got .004-.005 run out on both wheels.


----------



## Jamek

I bought a 2 axis digital readout for my lathe.     
The packages arrived today, looks great.


----------



## BGHansen

Jamek said:


> I bought a 2 axis digital readout for my lathe.
> The packages arrived today, looks great.


Looking forward to seeing your install string.  What's the DRO headed to?

Bruce


----------



## 7milesup

No wonder I can't win anything on auctions, you guys are buying everything up!

Bruce.... I am curious what you paid, if you don't mind me asking, for the roll taps.  I have 6 packages (30 total taps) of the Balax 5/16-18 roll taps currently listed on eBay.


----------



## Buffalo21

Been a bad month purchasing wise, a couple of ER 20 x R8 collet chucks, 3 sets of ER 20 collets, a couple of ER 20 ball bearing collet chuck nuts, a collet chuck nut wrench, 3 lathe tools, (3) 10 packs of carbide inserts, some end mills, a one shot oil pump, a couple of bandsaw blades and a 1-3/16”, a1-1/16” and a 7/8”, Wright service wrenches. 2 dozen leather work gloves and new work boots.


----------



## BGHansen

7milesup said:


> No wonder I can't win anything on auctions, you guys are buying everything up!
> 
> Bruce.... I am curious what you paid, if you don't mind me asking, for the roll taps.  I have 6 packages (30 total taps) of the Balax 5/16-18 roll taps currently listed on eBay.


I won the 8 of them for $21 including shipping. They are all unused.

Bruce


----------



## 7milesup

BGHansen said:


> I won the 8 of them for $21 including shipping. They are all unused.
> 
> Bruce


That is dang cheap.  Good for you.


----------



## Jamek

BGHansen said:


> Looking forward to seeing your install string.  What's the DRO headed to?
> 
> Bruce


I bought this DRO system for my milling lathe, but have not installed it yet. If I install it, I will post the pics or a video here.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

bought a long reach 1/2" endmill off Amazon for $6. It is supposedly Drill America brand, but the grind looks really good and way better than standard import HSS end mills. Won't get used much but that extra inch will come in handy when it does.



saw this lot while tooling around on eBay. Some new stuff, some duplicates/ spares, but all new and good brands (other than the 3/16" end mill, no brand on that). Can't complain for $16!


----------



## Aukai

Got to hang on to the little things.


----------



## Buffalo21

Got a package with the 5/8” shanks lathe tools, I ordered. I got a MCLNR1616H12 (CNMG 432 inserts), a MWLNR1616H08 (WNMG 431 inserts) and a MTJNR1616H16 (TNMG 431 inserts) and 30 inserts, 10 each of those listed.


The Italian made ER 20 ball bearing nut, was defective right out of the box, once the collet was snapped into the nut, it was too tight to allow the end mill to slide in. They are sending a replacement.


----------



## devils4ever

I've been slowly replacing my fluorescent shop lights with LEDs as they get weak or die. I've been buying the Commercial Electric brand at Home Depot. 

Since I had to return my Harbor Freight jack stands anyways, I thought I would try the Braun LED shop lights with coupon only $20 each. I can say I really like these lights. They are *bright*! Much brighter than the Commercial Electric ones. These are 5000 lumens and the Commercial Electric ones are 3200 about 50% more. I don't know how long they will last, but I wish I bought more.

They take about the same power as the fluorescent light, but since they are much brighter, you need less.


----------



## foleda

Had a bit of luck at an auction this week. 

First item was described as "Ball Screw Load Test Fixture." Photo showed a table with some shafts and pulleys mounted on it.  Seemed to have some potential to me for parts if nothing else so I bid it up to $8.00 and won.  Here is what I got:


Top is 22"x63"x0.75".  I see a welding table in its future.  Not sure what I'll do with the 850 lbs of lead bricks in the box at lower left.

Second item was described as "Contents of storage rack"  Photo showed a few bins with chunks of metal in them.  What I got:




It maxed out my 500kg scale so I paid something less than $0.0045/lb.  I'll be following the DIY XRF thread here on HM with interest.  Until then I'll have to practice my spark test skills to ID the unmarked pieces.

Makes up for the times I took a chance on poor photos and vague descriptions and got burned.


----------



## hman

A hand loader/bullet molder might well be interested in buying your lead.  That's how I got rid of a bunch a couple years ago.  Lead bricks will surely be of more interest than scrounging old wheel weights.


----------



## middle.road

Some piddly stuff at estate sales today.
Wife's nickname is 'Ash'...   



	

		
			
		

		
	
...


----------



## middle.road

If those are lead bricks in the box, I would get them coated as soon as time permits.
Back in the early 90's at the DOE lab I was at - after an ES&H study, they came through and coated all the bricks.
Testing showed they deteriorated and the particles were all around the areas that they were used and stored in.
<End Safety Sally Moment...>



foleda said:


> Had a bit of luck at an auction this week.
> 
> First item was described as "Ball Screw Load Test Fixture." Photo showed a table with some shafts and pulleys mounted on it.  Seemed to have some potential to me for parts if nothing else so I bid it up to $8.00 and won.  Here is what I got:
> View attachment 327487
> 
> Top is 22"x63"x0.75".  I see a welding table in its future.  Not sure what I'll do with the 850 lbs of lead bricks in the box at lower left.
> 
> Second item was described as "Contents of storage rack"  Photo showed a few bins with chunks of metal in them.  What I got:
> View attachment 327489
> 
> View attachment 327490
> 
> It maxed out my 500kg scale so I paid something less than $0.0045/lb.  I'll be following the DIY XRF thread here on HM with interest.  Until then I'll have to practice my spark test skills to ID the unmarked pieces.
> 
> Makes up for the times I took a chance on poor photos and vague descriptions and got burned.


----------



## hman

That there is one stout clamp!

Now tell us what the Bridgeport plate is all about ... just decorative???  It does look kinda neat!


----------



## Superburban

Stopped at an estate sale. Not much left by the time I got there, but did pick up these for $5. Cannot complain. 



	

		
			
		

		
	
.


----------



## finsruskw

This was waiting for me last night when we got home from a trip to MO.
Will hopefully prove useful cleaning the parts for my 9A.
30 liter capacity


----------



## mmcmdl

Is that an Elma fin ?


----------



## middle.road

hman said:


> That there is one stout clamp!
> 
> Now tell us what the Bridgeport plate is all about ... just decorative???  It does look kinda neat!


I reckon it's from a demo at a tool show. Somewhere in my boxes of junque I've got some from Hardinge from IMTS back in '86.
The lines of people waiting for samples off of machine centers were long, but Hardinge was cranking them out on a turning center.
This one was sitting on a sitting all covered in sawdust and grime. Could barely make out the Bridgeport logo.


----------



## erikmannie

My wife bought me a Starrett 956 wood case for my birthday. It was about $81.

I may put my micrometers in it, or I might just take out the foam and use it as a storage box for loose items in my tool chest (e.g. lathe cutting tools).


----------



## Inferno

Today I bought 50" of 6" wide .001 stainless shim stock. 

Building the CNC, I need to make my Z-axis guide rails parallel to the ballscrew and they are out about .003" over 18". 

I wish I could have had the shim stock in my hands today but it's located in another state.


----------



## foleda

middle.road said:


> If those are lead bricks in the box, I would get them coated as soon as time permits.
> Back in the early 90's at the DOE lab I was at - after an ES&H study, they came through and coated all the bricks.
> Testing showed they deteriorated and the particles were all around the areas that they were used and stored in.
> <End Safety Sally Moment...>


What did they use for coating?


----------



## DLF

The new toy just arrived. Jasic 200A AC/DC tig welder










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## speedybtx

Does a Weber master touch kettle grill count ? cuase yea, I got my bad self one, and have been grilling like a fool


----------



## finsruskw

speedybtx said:


> Does a Weber master touch kettle grill count ? cuase yea, I got my bad self one, and have been grilling like a fool


When do we eat??!!


----------



## gjmontll

On the local NAPA store's clearance table was this Digital Laser Tachometer. It will be useful with my Little Machine Shop Mini-Mill.


----------



## BGHansen

Just my personal preference, but I like the tumbler style digital micrometers over standard and electronic.  I don't recall ever not adding 25, 50 or 75 appropriately to a standard mic, but still prefer the digital with a definitive number.  I have 0-3" sets at each of my lathes, mills and workbench.  Both of my lathes have Shars 0-1" and 1"-2" thread pitch micrometers, standard style.  This tumbler-style 0-1" thread micrometer showed up on eBay for $59 delivered.  Quickly hit the Buy It Now!  Arrived today and I am very pleased.  No sign of use, goes through the full range very smoothly.  Guess my Tormach will be getting a Shars thread mic though I haven't thread milled on it yet.

Bruce


----------



## pdentrem

I bought a cardboard box.



Which has 5C collets to 1” by 32nds.



No longer have to borrow ones from work!
Pierre


----------



## Buffalo21

gjmontll said:


> On the local NAPA store's clearance table was this Digital Laser Tachometer. It will be useful with my Little Machine Shop Mini-Mill.
> View attachment 327748



I bought an identical one from The Meter-Depot about 10 yrs ago, I paid less than $20, works great, it matches the optical encoders on the drill press and the lathe, within a rpm or two. The only issue with it, mine eats 9v batteries like popcorn.


----------



## hman

I have the Harbor Freight 4-AA cell equivalent.  I noticed that it, too liked to eat batteries.  But I've started leaving one battery out (thereby un-connecting the stack) when not in use.  Seems to be working.

It might well be that the control circuit, which has to be at least partially "on" all the time to detect the start button being pressed, is the culprit.


----------



## erikmannie

My brother bought me a 10 pound can of Lincoln Electric 1/8” 7018. I prefer to stick weld on DCEP.


----------



## Aaron_W

I was casually perusing CL as we tend to do...  

Saw this an hour away from me, at what I thought was a fair price so I had to go bring it home. Kalamazoo 610-W, a 6x10 bandsaw, and the W means it came with an optional coolant pump. From what I could find online Kalamazoo replaced this model in 1970 so it is at least 50 years old. 

Looks pretty good for its age, and seems to be fully functional except for the coolant pump which I wasn't able to try.  It was in a shop and they were only selling it because they bought a new cold saw and don't need this one anymore. 

It doesn't take up a whole lot more room than my HF 4x6 but is much heavier with more features. Somebody added some "wings" to support the material being cut. Nice idea but it prevents cutting at an angle so that may need to change.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by the tool/ flea market, i haven't been in three months, many because it was closed during the pandemic, and as it is hitting its second wave it will be closed again so this was my chance. As expected there was much less venders and i did not want to go in crowded places so i only bought few items. First i bought couple of round trailer reflectors, couple of packages of fuses, the new ultra small ones. Then i went nuts buying diamond cutting blades, started with buying a 3 piece 125mm set. Then bought two 230mm blades one new one old and las one i bought was this enormast 400mm blade. The smaller ones are getting used immediately the larger ones i plan to use in the small garage when making a car inspection pit at the end of the summer


----------



## middle.road

foleda said:


> What did they use for coating?


I believe it was some sort of an epoxy/fiberglass wrap. Sorry I don't know the type or composition. 
Something to keep them 'protected' while getting banged about.


----------



## Ken from ontario

Aaron_W said:


> I was casually perusing CL as we tend to do...
> 
> Saw this an hour away from me, at what I thought was a fair price so I had to go bring it home. Kalamazoo 610-W, a 6x10 bandsaw, and the W means it came with an optional coolant pump. From what I could find online Kalamazoo replaced this model in 1970 so it is at least 50 years old.
> 
> Looks pretty good for its age, and seems to be fully functional except for the coolant pump which I wasn't able to try.  It was in a shop and they were only selling it because they bought a new cold saw and don't need this one anymore.
> 
> It doesn't take up a whole lot more room than my HF 4x6 but is much heavier with more features. Somebody added some "wings" to support the material being cut. Nice idea but it prevents cutting at an angle so that may need to change.
> 
> View attachment 327847
> View attachment 327848
> View attachment 327849


I have that exact saw, well,  a 610 without the pump. it is a great bandsaw, as you might have noticed,  there's no plastic part on it anywhere, very solid saw, the only thing I need to replace on it is the guide brushes.
You did good, it'll last another 50 years.


----------



## Aaron_W

Ken from ontario said:


> I have that exact saw, well,  a 610 without the pump. it is a great bandsaw, as you might have noticed,  there's no plastic part on it anywhere, very solid saw, the only thing I need to replace on it is the guide brushes.
> You did good, it'll last another 50 years.



I'm going to give it a good going over before really putting it to work, but I'm building a wheeled base for it, and since it was right there thought I'd let it help out. I cut a few pieces of angle iron with it. I have some minor issues to address but it still cut great. The coolant pump is a super simple arrangement, so if it doesn't work and I really feel the need for one it will be very easy to repair or replace.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought another Starrett 956 case. The first one that I bought, I figured I would take out the foam and use it for loose tools.

However, when I received the first case, I put all of my Imperial 0-6” Starrett micrometers & standards in there (I had to buy 3 standards to complete the set). The result was so amazing that now I am going to do the same for my 0-150mm (metric) Starrett micrometers (and I’m sure that I will have to buy a few more standards).

Lately it seems that I was put on this Earth to spend my money on Starrett products.


----------



## middle.road

I am claiming this month's award for the heaviest auction haul that did not include any machines along with the '*Granite Stoopid*' award.
Auction was in Alabama.
I had peddled some passed down antiques that I've had packed away for a long time - figured shop equipment would be of more use.
It was a two day webcast and on-line auction by Asset-Sales, and it went pretty decent. Good company to deal with.
I was after a surface plate so as to get to repairing the Birmingham cross-slide.
They aren't Grade 'A' but then neither am I. 

(I've put all the pictures in the 'spoiler' below - I didn't want to clutter up the thread with a ton of picts...)


Spoiler: Click HERE for the Pictures.



Start off with a pict of my poor ol' 2500 before heading out to get the booty.
Didn't want to haul the trailer for (4) hours, and the tires are ~10 years old. Should have changed the tires and taken it.
I may have mis-calculated the allowable payload.



These came up early. Got lucky.
Interestingly they are a shop engineered system. There are two nice sump pump in the buckets underneath and the gray box is a
solid state timer wired with GFCI outlets.
Also scored two 5-gal buckets of pellet media. Wish I could have loaded up more.
There was an employee of the defunct company present and he gave us a three ring binder with all the information on the setup, nice.


	

		
			
		

		
	
.....
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 After clean up...

Next up were the large surface plates and they went for less than the prices I've seen the past several months.
Then came three lots (#36, #37, #38) of 18x24 plates, and this is where I messed up. (Note: don't answer your phone when bidding on-line...)
#36 and #37 were decent. #38 had (3) oddballs.
So the auctioneer changed up the way they normally 'group' lots. For these three it was bid on the group and then take your pick.
I won the bid, a window popped up for me to select and I only wanted #37, well the checkbox on #36 was already selected and I didn't de-select it.
(still on the phone trying to help a buddy with his computer woes...)
I won #36 and #37. #36 actually had (3) plates in the lot. You could barely see the third on the tall orange stand.
Note the gray drawers in the gray stand...


	

		
			
		

		
	
....
	

		
			
		

		
	




Having scored what I came for I sat back to track prices and watch.
And then #94 came up. Bidding stalled and I thought 'what the hell...' submitted a bid and next thing I know I won the bloody set.
(3) 4x24x36 on one heck of fabricated stand.



The following day it was just a timed on-line auction.
I picked up two 'well loved' lots on the cheap.
Mitu 24" height gage, with Mitu .001 DI. Pretty well used, but I scored it for $40.



Ever see a sorrier set of gage blocks? $40 also.
I have a partial set of Webbers that @Wdnich had passed on to me years ago, and I figure to fill it out.


But the lot included a beat up cardboard box that wasn't shown in the picture and that I didn't go through until I got home.
And it had these in it.


	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	




And the (4) gray drawer set mentioned above had some gems in it.
(3) of the drawers are mostly hardware and misc. but in the fourth was this puppy.


	

		
			
		

		
	
....
	

		
			
		

		
	



A dis-assembled 3-jaw Zweifel Wetzikon(?) precision chuck w/ the 5C adapter. Hopefully I can re-assemble it.

=====================================================================
Loading up this past Tuesday.
The 'helper' crew that Asset-Sales had there was excellent. They had hired two former employees for the auction.
There were a *lot *of CNC machines and other heavy equipment in the facility and there were three rigging companies around.
One gave me a bid of $250.00 for loading and I don't think that included removing the plates from their stands as I wanted.
The site supervisor let the crew help me load up and there was a fork truck to use.
Saved my arse or else I'd still be down there loading up.



	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	



Should have brought the trailer...




	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	




This puppy almost got left behind.
The guys had gathered all the plates and brought them over to where we were loading up and had left it in the other building.
I did a walk through just before we left and saw it. Honey and I had to load it up and it is not light.


Leaving the facility. I do believe that 'Sylvia' is sitting a tad low. She had dropped 6" after load up.


=========================================
Unloading - finally, yesterday after spending a couple of days getting the skidsteer running.



	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	



Site Supervisor:
He kept jumping in the bed every chance he got.


Helps to have a lovely operator at the controls... 


He loves climbing into the back of the truck.


All we managed to unload yesterday. Still have the three Starrett pinks to do.
Guess what I'm doing for Father's Day?


----------



## Gaffer

That's an exceptional haul - congrats!


----------



## pontiac428

That's a lot of granite surfaces for one body.  Are you trying to entice Richard King to your neighborhood?


----------



## Buffalo21

On one of the machining sites, there was a guy, who bought all of the damaged granite blocks from Grizzly, at one of their scratch and dent sales, and used them to make a sidewalk at his house.....


----------



## Aukai

That's a haul, but I'm more jealous of the guy who can squat all the way down on the bed rail. That's just plain showing off.....


----------



## Ianagos

Let me know if you want to get rid of one of those bigger plates looks to be in better condition than mine.


----------



## middle.road

Aukai said:


> That's a haul, but I'm more jealous of the guy who can squat all the way down on the bed rail. That's just plain showing off.....


Thank you.
I'm sitting here pretty worn out wondering if there is enough Advil in East TN to take care of the aches and pains.  
We finally have it all unloaded and on dollies.
Next time around when I think to myself that '_I can do this_' would someone please slap some sense back into me?


----------



## middle.road

Ianagos said:


> Let me know if you want to get rid of one of those bigger plates looks to be in better condition than mine.


Will do, most definitely!


----------



## NCjeeper

I call dibs on a 24x36.


----------



## Aukai

When we were younger, yes we could do this with no payback, at our(my) age now there is significant retribution. I think the saying is
I'm not as good as I once was, but I'm good once as I ever was


----------



## JimDawson

Added another forklift to our stable.  This one went over to my son's shop.  

It's a 1968 Clark 5000lb


----------



## Aukai

Looks to be in good shape. 68, is that a propane conversion?


----------



## JimDawson

Aukai said:


> Looks to be in good shape. 68, is that a propane conversion?



Quite good shape.  Yes, it's propane.


----------



## ACHiPo

middle.road said:


> I believe it was some sort of an epoxy/fiberglass wrap. Sorry I don't know the type or composition.
> Something to keep them 'protected' while getting banged about.


When I was scuba diving more actively it was fairly common to have lead weights coated with rubber (think plasti-dip).  Anything that encapsulates the lead would reduce the risk of breathing lead oxide dust, although if you're not gonna use it I'm sure you could find someone that would pay quite a bit for it as lead is getting harder to come by (at least out here).


----------



## middle.road

Supervisor still as vigilant as ever, and of course getting in the way of finishing up the project.   



Found a Gem in the beat up black box of Gage Blocks this morning.
(.8155) ?? Must have been a 'special' maybe?


----------



## middle.road

That's what I needed this week vs. a skidsteer.
That's looking real good for a '68. The mast doesn't look all scuffed up.
How much does the whole machine weigh?


JimDawson said:


> Added another forklift to our stable.  This one went over to my son's shop.
> 
> It's a 1968 Clark 5000lb
> 
> View attachment 328423


----------



## Ianagos

middle.road said:


> Supervisor still as vigilant as ever, and of course getting in the way of finishing up the project.
> View attachment 328430
> 
> 
> Found a Gem in the beat up black box of Gage Blocks this morning.
> (.8155) ?? Must have been a 'special' maybe?
> View attachment 328431



Looks like a Carl Johansson Ford block supposedly Ford had something to do with them coming into wide usage but I can’t remember the story. Look up the history of gauge blocks and Carl Johansson for a good read if you are into that type of thing. Has to do with war and whatnot.


----------



## middle.road

I picked this up last year, and about a week earlier Keith Rucker had posted a video on it's use and operation.
Then I went and started reading up on CEJ.
I get a kick out of how he did them up on his wife's singer sewing machine.










Ianagos said:


> Looks like a Carl Johansson Ford block supposedly Ford had something to do with them coming into wide usage but I can’t remember the story. Look up the history of gauge blocks and Carl Johansson for a good read if you are into that type of thing. Has to do with war and whatnot.


----------



## Buffalo21

I bought 4 of the MT#3 x MT#2 reducing sleeves, I bought 5 or 6 of them over the last few years and now can not find any of them.


----------



## pontiac428

Ianagos said:


> Looks like a Carl Johansson Ford block supposedly Ford had something to do with them coming into wide usage but I can’t remember the story. Look up the history of gauge blocks and Carl Johansson for a good read if you are into that type of thing. Has to do with war and whatnot.



I reckoned old Carl just made himself a set of gauge blocks at work... and took it home one piece at a time.


----------



## finsruskw

Snagged a 60 pc assortment of end mills, drills, reamers etc, most appeared to be new.
Was going to post the picture from the C/L ad but the guy took it down already.
Be a few weeks before I get them home as my Uncle (300 miles away) picked the stuff up for me.


----------



## foleda

middle.road said:


> I believe it was some sort of an epoxy/fiberglass wrap. Sorry I don't know the type or composition.
> Something to keep them 'protected' while getting banged about.





ACHiPo said:


> When I was scuba diving more actively it was fairly common to have lead weights coated with rubber (think plasti-dip).  Anything that encapsulates the lead would reduce the risk of breathing lead oxide dust, although if you're not gonna use it I'm sure you could find someone that would pay quite a bit for it as lead is getting harder to come by (at least out here).



I'm thinking of attaching the box to a three point hitch and using it for a counter
weight for my tractor.  If I weld a lid on the box it will isolate the lead from the 
environment.


----------



## DLF

1. Big vernier caliper: 100cm/40in; 0.05mm precision in decent condition given the age. On the tail there seem to be metrology markings (not sure) and the oldest is a 66 (1966?). Anyhow , it looks old, no rust except for some pitting, and does not feel so smooth as a newer one but for something I will probably be using once every couple of years it is more than enough

2. Set of radius gage blocks (hope it’s the correct term). Inner and outer radius, 7.5-15mm radius in 0.5mm increments

All for 80$ 























Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## middle.road

Oops, forgot about about the 'kraft' paper that Honey grabbed out of the trash.
We were grabbing NOS cardboard boxes out of the pile and she came back with this.
Puts off quite the aroma when it's been sitting in the back seat of the truck for almost a week...


----------



## hman

@DLF - Both very nice tools.  The radius gauges look like they're especially well "packaged."  That design seems a lot better than the loose-parts-in-a-plastic-folder style that I have.  And the "historical" markings on the caliper make it a real treasure.  Congratulations!


----------



## DLF

hman said:


> @DLF - Both very nice tools. The radius gauges look like they're especially well "packaged." That design seems a lot better than the loose-parts-in-a-plastic-folder style that I have. And the "historical" markings on the caliper make it a real treasure. Congratulations!



Thank you!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## erikmannie

Precision Matthews PM-1660TL with factory DRO.

I just got back from getting a personal loan for $12,000 to put toward this $18,000 order which includes the machine, DRO, DRO installation, sales tax and delivery.

Later, I’m going to get a 10” 4 jaw chuck, taper attachment, extra BXA tool holders, and 5/8” and 3/4” turning and boring sets.

I sent a $3,600 deposit today because this machine has not even shipped from Taiwan yet. The DRO is also back ordered. I hope to see the machine in September.

The main reasons that I chose this machine are:
(1) Taiwanese manufacture,
(2) QCGB for any and all metric and Imperial thread pitches,
(3) 2.55” spindle bore,
(4) taper attachment, and
(5) HP motor.

This is a picture of a PM-1640TL:


----------



## Aukai

Impressive...


----------



## Aukai

I'm gonna have to get another drawer


----------



## pontiac428

Aukai said:


> I'm gonna have to get another drawer



I see you got the starter set, nice!

I don't keep mine in drawers.  Years ago I started using a 5-gallon bucket to hold them all like a vise-grip boquet, just drop them in tip down and keep the bucket near the welding table.  Somehow it's easy to pick out the one you want and they don't get hung up on each other.


----------



## Aukai

Organized people are just too lazy to look for their stuff, this is the "where did I put it down" collection.


----------



## Superburban

Aukai said:


> Organized people are just too lazy to look for their stuff, this is the "where did I put it down" collection.
> View attachment 328689


If I looked around, I bet I could beat that, especially the upper left hand one. The same with utility knives, screwdriver tips, tiny LED flashlights, And probably things I'm not thinking of. I know my disorganization leads to excess. I hate not being able to find something when I need it.


----------



## gr8legs

Not quite in the class of a  Precision Matthews PM-1660TL with factory DRO (drool) but I received a wire terminal ratchet crimper that was well reviewed on another list I am on. (Discussion was relative merits of soldered versus crimp connectors but we won't go there now, too much like a religion 

It has easily interchangeable jaws for insulated (red, blue and yellow wire sizes) and non insulated connections plus some lesser used types that I didn't have a crimper for. About $70 from several eBay sellers and looks and feels pretty stout, includes a plastic case. 

As good as my AMP crimper that does only the RBY crimps and about 1/2 the price.


----------



## Weldo

Picked up a nice CO2 regulator from ebay.  This is part of my plan to use a 10# CO2 tank for shop air.

The outlet of the regulator goes to a small shut off valve and then to another regulator.  Not sure why.  Fine adjustment maybe?


----------



## Weldo

Hey, this may be the best forum to ask this question.  

Does anyone know where I can buy one single gallon of ISO 32 way oil?  It's what the Atlas shaper calls for.  I keep finding it in 5 gallon buckets, but I think that would be a multi lifetime supply for me and I don't wanna pay almost $200.

I've tried Grainger, MSC, McMaster-Carr, eBay, Fastenal and any others I could think of.  No one has a single gallon of ISO 32 way oil.


----------



## BGHansen

Not 1-gallon, but pretty sure mine from Tractor Supply is in a 2-gallon jug.

Bruce


----------



## Aukai

Amazon Mobil


----------



## Buffalo21

Damn!! No one is local, I have 15-20 gallons of Vactra 2 way oil in numerous 5 gallon pails.


----------



## pontiac428

Weldo said:


> Picked up a nice CO2 regulator from ebay.  This is part of my plan to use a 10# CO2 tank for shop air.
> 
> The outlet of the regulator goes to a small shut off valve and then to another regulator.  Not sure why.  Fine adjustment maybe?
> 
> View attachment 328751



That's not a CO2 regulator, it's a nitrogen or compressed air regulator.  It's a nice setup, and Linde is pro kit.  It's a 2-stage, the first regulator drops the pressure coarsely across a wide range.  The second regulator is a fine adjust for low pressure.

Edit:  It just dawned on me, it's set up for helium.  The o-ring is the same as CO2, but it's a 3000 PSI supply.


----------



## Firstram

Weldo said:


> Picked up a nice CO2 regulator from ebay.  This is part of my plan to use a 10# CO2 tank for shop air.
> 
> The outlet of the regulator goes to a small shut off valve and then to another regulator.  Not sure why.  Fine adjustment maybe?



I would remove the smaller reg and replace it with a quick connect in your flavor.
Look on the back of the smaller regulator for a max input pressure. I'll try to look on one of mine tomorrow. You can add a CO2 spud and use it as a stand alone low pressure reg. The HP gauge on a CO2 reg is unnecessary anyway, it just reads vapor pressure until your out of liquid.

Pontiac is correct. That setup will be fine to use for CO2 but you may have to change to a CGA 320 spud.


----------



## Weldo

pontiac428 said:


> That's not a CO2 regulator, it's a nitrogen or compressed air regulator.  It's a nice setup, and Linde is pro kit.  It's a 2-stage, the first regulator drops the pressure coarsely across a wide range.  The second regulator is a fine adjust for low pressure.
> 
> Edit:  It just dawned on me, it's set up for helium.  The o-ring is the same as CO2, but it's a 3000 PSI supply.



I just assumed it was CO2 because it had the CGA 320 inlet.  I thought CO2 was the only gas that used it.  The adjuster knob says "Inert Gas" and the gauges say "Do Not Use Oxygen".  I figured it was two stage because of the extra protrusion on the back of the body.

Long term I may decide to get a high pressure cylinder of nitrogen for shop air instead of CO2.  With any prolonged use of CO2 there will probably be freezing issues, not to mention asphyxiation hazard since I'm working in a basement.  Of course that may go for nitrogen as well.  Most welding supply places can do high pressure compressed air, can't they?



Firstram said:


> The HP gauge on a CO2 reg is unnecessary anyway, it just reads vapor pressure until your out of liquid.



True.  The gauge on the tank side should always read the same.  Only when the liquid is gone will the gauge show a drop in pressure, then you know pretty much empty.


----------



## hman

@Weldo -

Whenever you're using either N2 or CO2 for "compressed air" in your basement shop, you'd best have good ventilation (ie, outside air) coming in.

Regarding the pros and cons of these two gases -
(1) CO2 is in the liquid state in the tank.  This means that the total gas volume will be hugely larger than what you'd get from a similarly sized tank of a compressed gas.  In rough numbers, every ounce of liquid CO2 will produce slightly more than ¾ of a cubic foot of gas.  A 50 lb tank of CO2 will yield about 630 cubic feet of gas.  A similar size tank (1A) of N2 (at 2000 PSI) will yield 206 cubic feet at atmospheric pressure.  Your 10 lb tank should yield about 206 cubic feet of gas. [I'm an old chemist, and it was fun going back to the "22.4 liters per gram molecular weight" formula!]
(2) Freezing should not be an issue with CO2 unless you use it at a pretty fast rate.
(3) A CO2 tank valve (at least the ones I have) uses a face seal with a plastic gasket, rather than the CGA320 fitting.
(4) Worst comes to worst, and you dump your entire 10 lb CO2 tank into your workspace at once, it will only be 206 cubic feet, or a volume of about 10 ft x 10 ft x 3 ft.  That will generally be a small fraction of the air volume in a typical basement (unless you're down on the floor) ... but again, be sure there's fresh air coming in.


----------



## Weldo

hman said:


> Worst comes to worst, and you dump your entire 10 lb CO2 tank into your workspace at once, it will only be 206 cubic feet, or a volume of about 10 ft x 10 ft x 3 ft. That will generally be a small fraction of the air volume in a typical basement (unless you're down on the floor) ... but again, be sure there's fresh air coming in.



There is a small window I can open.  I sometimes put an exhaust fan in there when I have to spray paint.  



hman said:


> A CO2 tank valve (at least the ones I have) uses a face seal with a plastic gasket, rather than the CGA320 fitting.



I thought CGA 320 is that same fitting you are describing?  Like the pic below.  It has a flat face with a gasket of some type.




This is the type on my regulator.


----------



## middle.road

I gotta get me one of them.      Looks pretty good.
I had a nice knock-off that was decent and I loaned it to someone to do their stereo in their truck.
Guess what got left out in the rain?



gr8legs said:


> Not quite in the class of a  Precision Matthews PM-1660TL with factory DRO (drool) but I received a wire terminal ratchet crimper that was well reviewed on another list I am on. (Discussion was relative merits of soldered versus crimp connectors but we won't go there now, too much like a religion
> 
> It has easily interchangeable jaws for insulated (red, blue and yellow wire sizes) and non insulated connections plus some lesser used types that I didn't have a crimper for. About $70 from several eBay sellers and looks and feels pretty stout, includes a plastic case.
> 
> As good as my AMP crimper that does only the RBY crimps and about 1/2 the price.
> 
> View attachment 328749


----------



## middle.road

Might be needing some intervention here... 
Auction here in East TN this past week, it was exactly midway between us and @NCjeeper. 102 miles from us.
I really need to try to get to the Inspection day before bidding on-line...

Scored a Planer Gage, figured it was an import.

Box is really grubby.


Here it is compared to my larger B&S.


	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
...
And it turns out to be a Starrett!!! I'm jazzed.



And then I went '*Stoopid*' again.


	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	



It's a Do-All 4x18x24. Looks to be in fine shape. Of course won't know for sure until I start checking these.

And scored a (hopefully cast iron) plate. 3x10x14
Heavy sucker. Got it cheap. Maybe I'll get lucky and it'll be somewhat accurate.   


	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	




And then there's this 18x24. I was intrigued my the threaded inserts. I was thinking maybe it was part of a CMM - perhaps?
It's dinged up pretty bad in the lower left. But I got it for a song. It was boxed up and the address label was to ABB up in Rogersville, TN.
Has a calibration sticker on it from 2015 denoting Grade 'B'.


	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	




My Better-Half did ask (after we unloaded in the rain this morning) whether or not we've got enough now...


----------



## hman

@Weldo -
I'm definitely not that familiar with the GCS numerology.  Plus, I totally failed to get another look at your original photos.  You're right.  It's definitely a CO2 fitting you have there.  Guess I was thrown off by whoever started talking about N2, and thought your regulator was for that gas.  I now that N2 (and probably most inert compressed gases) use an entirely different type of (all metal) sealing method.  I use argon for my TIG.

And I can't even claim lack of coffee for yesterday's boo-boo ... posted about 5PM!  So I'll just try to grin and bear it.


----------



## Stonebriar

erikmannie said:


> Precision Matthews PM-1660TL with factory DRO.
> 
> I just got back from getting a personal loan for $12,000 to put toward this $18,000 order which includes the machine, DRO, DRO installation, sales tax and delivery.
> 
> Later, I’m going to get a 10” 4 jaw chuck, taper attachment, extra BXA tool holders, and 5/8” and 3/4” turning and boring sets.
> 
> I sent a $3,600 deposit today because this machine has not even shipped from Taiwan yet. The DRO is also back ordered. I hope to see the machine in September.
> 
> The main reasons that I chose this machine are:
> (1) Taiwanese manufacture,
> (2) QCGB for any and all metric and Imperial thread pitches,
> (3) 2.55” spindle bore,
> (4) taper attachment, and
> (5) HP motor.
> 
> This is a picture of a PM-1640TL:
> View attachment 328659


You WIN


----------



## erikmannie

Starrett 234MA-125. I have really got to stop buying stuff.


----------



## Dhal22

erikmannie said:


> Starrett 234MA-125. I have really got to stop buying stuff.
> View attachment 328935




Why?


----------



## erikmannie

Dhal22 said:


> Why?


Well, I do love micrometers. I have a Starrett foam case which houses my 0-150mm micrometers & end measuring rods. The 125mm foam insert was vacant.

As you know, the 234MA-125 verifies the zero on a 125-150mm mic. I zero before using the mic.


----------



## Dhal22

erikmannie said:


> Well, I do love micrometers. I have a Starrett foam case which houses my 0-150mm micrometers & end measuring rods. The 125mm foam insert was vacant.
> 
> As you know, the 234MA-125 verifies the zero on a 125-150mm mic. I zero before using the mic.



No, I mean why do you need to quit buying stuff?


----------



## erikmannie

Dhal22 said:


> No, I mean why do you need to quit buying stuff?


My garage is full, and I have run my family into the ground financially.


----------



## Dhal22

Ahh......


----------



## middle.road

Well, at least your Mic Standards compulsion is a lot easier to move around and store than my _Granite _Standards.   


erikmannie said:


> Starrett 234MA-125. I have really got to stop buying stuff.
> View attachment 328935


----------



## Ianagos

middle.road said:


> Well, at least your Mic Standards compulsion is a lot easier to move around and store than my _Granite _Standards.



Tell me about it. My cnc machine collection is just now finally getting thinned out. I’m trying to cut down to one large and one mill


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by the tool/ flea market, bought almost the same items as previous time i visited it. Bought one more diamond cutting stone, 100 fuses, old school jump starter, and a fuel can, that i leter read that is infact water tank.


----------



## 7milesup

GoceKU said:


> Today i stopped by the tool/ flea market, bought almost the same items as previous time i visited it. Bought one more diamond cutting stone, 100 fuses, old school jump starter, and a fuel can, that i leter read that is infact water tank.
> View attachment 329073
> View attachment 329074
> View attachment 329076
> View attachment 329077



Yeah, my limited german tells me it is a water can.  Drinking can (like a canteen) to be exact.


----------



## 7milesup

I have wanted a Wilton Bullet vise for a long time. turns out I ended up with two of them for $100 each.  They are in remarkably good condition.  One was manufactured in 1954 and the other is from 1951.  I was bidding on these and later discovered I was bidding against JRaut (one of the HM memebers).  We both chuckled about that. 
Anyhow, I hope to restore them as soon as I am more healed up from some injuries.


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

New vice day! 
Four gvs-690 vices from Glacern machine tool. Got a 3" face mill from them aswell, very pleased with them.
What a treat to the eyes 
Defiantly a cry once thing.


----------



## 7milesup

^^^ Oh sure, you just had to out do me with my two vises^^^    LOL


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

7milesup said:


> ^^^ Oh sure, you just had to out do me with my two vises^^^    LOL



Hahaha  100$ for any old school working vice is a good deal. those should clean up wonderfully! 
My vises defiantly hurt the wallet a bit more....


----------



## Ianagos

Zyox Jägergeist said:


> Hahaha  100$ for any old school working vice is a good deal. those should clean up wonderfully!
> My vises defiantly hurt the wallet a bit more....



I buy the same vices but from teco for a bit less $ and they are great vices. Comparable to Kurt any day. You will have very good service out of those vises. I think I have 6 or 7 of them now.


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

Ianagos said:


> I buy the same vices but from teco for a bit less $ and they are great vices. Comparable to Kurt any day. You will have very good service out of those vises. I think I have 6 or 7 of them now.



I measured these vises in the mill and I am very happy with how they did, in terms of being parallel with the table they are welllllll under .0005" id have to get my tenth dial out to see what they really are within.

and the new dx6 Kurts kinda suck, the shop I work at bought 4 new ones and they are not nearly as nice to use as the d688's I honestly quite dislike them. hence why I went with glacern's style.


----------



## hman

*GoceKU - "*Trinkwasser" is German for drinking water.  Of course, it's been used for who-knows-what by previous owners.  So it's probably just suitable for fuel by now.  Just be sure to label it appropriately


----------



## GoceKU

Its is a water can, its got diesel in it now i don't think is suitable for long term storage to have 20l of diesel fuel bouncing around, but should be good enough for having a reserve in my garage.


----------



## Aukai

I have a D688, why were they discontinued?


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

Aukai said:


> I have a D688, why were they discontinued?



The patents ran out, for a while there was quite a few companies making them. Other then that I have no idea, the new dx6 doesn’t even have USA cast into them so I have my suspicions.


----------



## Ianagos

I think the d688 was outdated and the dx6 was a way to modernize and cut down costs. I like the fact that they are narrower but I don’t personally own one because parlec had their better design out before Kurt had the dx6 that could hold 9” inside the jaws and the carrier but doesn’t stick out the back. Then glacern got their vises made to the same design as the parlec/teco (read as copied). I’m not a big fan of glacern they just resell Chinese goods at high prices. For very little more you can get American stuff and for a little less you can get identical stuff elsewhere.


----------



## BGHansen

7milesup said:


> I have wanted a Wilton Bullet vise for a long time. turns out I ended up with two of them for $100 each.  They are in remarkably good condition.  One was manufactured in 1954 and the other is from 1951.  I was bidding on these and later discovered I was bidding against JRaut (one of the HM memebers).  We both chuckled about that.
> Anyhow, I hope to restore them as soon as I am more healed up from some injuries.


You'll probably get a lot of likes, but might not from one HM forum member. . .

Bruce


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

Ianagos said:


> I think the d688 was outdated and the dx6 was a way to modernize and cut down costs. I like the fact that they are narrower but I don’t personally own one because parlec had their better design out before Kurt had the dx6 that could hold 9” inside the jaws and the carrier but doesn’t stick out the back. Then glacern got their vises made to the same design as the parlec/teco (read as copied). I’m not a big fan of glacern they just resell Chinese goods at high prices. For very little more you can get American stuff and for a little less you can get identical stuff elsewhere.



Glacern uses import castings, but they are machined and ground in the USA, pretty sure shars is the Chinese redistributor. the new dx6 are junk imo they are a very poor design that I would not recommend to anyone Kurt also has much worse packaging, the last 4 dx6 we got come damaged aswell.


----------



## Ianagos

Zyox Jägergeist said:


> Glacern uses import castings, but they are machined and ground in the USA, pretty sure shars is the Chinese redistributor. the new dx6 are junk imo they are a very poor design that I would not recommend to anyone Kurt also has much worse packaging, the last 4 dx6 we got come damaged aswell.



Who told you they are machined in the us? They are Taiwan made identical to the teco/parlec they copied/ bought from the same factory. If you can show me any evidence they are machined in the US I’ll start buying from them. I have heard from someone else that glacern is us made and that is not the case. I can show you identical products sold by shars etc. I think some salesman over at glacern are blowing smoke.


----------



## Ianagos

Please try and convince me these were not made in the same factory. Down to the same bolts.


----------



## Buffalo21

I‘ve bought working, street legal, licensable and drivable cars for less than that vise.


----------



## Ianagos

Buffalo21 said:


> I‘ve bought working, street legal, licensable and drivable cars for less than that vise.



Me too. Heck my wife’s 2012 car was only 1200$ but I have several Kurt double vises that cost more than that vise.


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

Ianagos said:


> Please try and convince me these were not made in the same factory. Down to the same bolts.



Dunno, maybe you can email them. I did and they told me they are ground in house in California. They also bed matched my 4 vises I got from them.

Up to you if you want to chat and ask them.


----------



## BGHansen

This is from Glacern's web site.  Says they have global manufacturing partners in the US, Europe and Japan.  Processes such as CNC machining, grinding, heat treating, assembly and final inspection are performed locally in SOCAL.

I have two of their GPV-615 premium CNC 6" vises and have been very happy with them.

Bruce


----------



## Ianagos

Heck I should just gone to their factory while I was living in SoCal. I definitely believe they make some items in house just not those vises. I don’t care to give them a call right now but maybe another day.


----------



## middle.road

What I would like to know is how come, in the last five auctions I've watched or participated in, the Kurt's go for over $300?
Who or where is the market for that many used vises? Even the 'rusty' ones were fetching over $250.
I just did a quick tally and there were over (60+) in the past few months.


----------



## BGHansen

Few eBay pick ups.

First is some 1 1/4" OD 1018 cut-offs.  I have a project that'll maybe use 2 or 3 of them, but always good to have stock on hand.  Paid around $40 including shipping.




Strictly my preference, but I like Casio's FX260 scientific calculators.  I must have 8-10 of them around the shop.  They're solar powered, do trig and fractions.  These were around $6 each including shipping.





Picked up a number of carbide corner rounding end mills for CNC work.  They vary from a radius of 0.003" (why bother?) to 0.125".  Pretty simple with the CNC to run a rounding tool on the same path and let G41 and G42 work their magic.  These were not quite $3 each delivered.




Bruce


----------



## Logan 400

I bought my first auto darkening welding helmet. After reading all the replies to a thread here I was visiting my son and he had me try his new helmet. I forget the brand but it was more money than I wanted to spend especially for my first one. I did my research and ended up with an Eastman L6700. It has 4 sensors and clear view and will accept my magnifying lense and was very inexpensive. I tried it on a couple welds an I am very pleased.
	

		
			
		

		
	




Jay


----------



## Logan 400

Sorry it's Eastwood not Eastman. Auto spell got me.
Jay


----------



## Lo-Fi

middle.road said:


> What I would like to know is how come, in the last five auctions I've watched or participated in, the Kurt's go for over $300?
> Who or where is the market for that many used vises? Even the 'rusty' ones were fetching over $250.
> I just did a quick tally and there were over (60+) in the past few months.



Its completely mad. Knackered ones ebay for hundreds when you can pay half or less for a decent import. I have no idea why either, it makes no sense. I made the mistake of buying used. One had been dropped, had its back broken and badly repaired. The gib doesn't even fit. Another looked nice but turned out to be some home build apprentice project and a bit of a waste of space. The former is being turned into a very solid base for tool grinder, the latter used as a heavy drilling vise. 

I bought a decent import, finished it nicely and haven't looked back. If you treat the imports as part machined set of castings that require finishing, you get a really nice tool for the price.


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

Lo-Fi said:


> Its completely mad. Knackered ones ebay for hundreds when you can pay half or less for a decent import. I have no idea why either, it makes no sense. I made the mistake of buying used. One had been dropped, had its back broken and badly repaired. The gib doesn't even fit. Another looked nice but turned out to be some home build apprentice project and a bit of a waste of space. The former is being turned into a very solid base for tool grinder, the latter used as a heavy drilling vise.
> 
> I bought a decent import, finished it nicely and haven't looked back. If you treat the imports as part machined set of castings that require finishing, you get a really nice tool for the price.




from the uk I see, this man knows the pain of buying from the usa. it would cost me 800$ then import charges to bring a abused kurt up into Canada. the glacerns I got for a little over 970$ shipped. Kurts would have been well over 1000. 

I got the glacerns on sale aswell, 430usd. you guys in the usa have it pretty good.


----------



## 7milesup

BGHansen said:


> Strictly my preference, but I like Casio's FX260 scientific calculators.  I must have 8-10 of them around the shop.  They're solar powered, do trig and fractions.  These were around $6 each including shipping.
> View attachment 329136
> 
> 
> Bruce



Not sure if you have a smart phone Bruce but there are numerous apps that you can download to emulate scientific calculators.   I use CalcTastic on mine to emulate a TI-84.  Works very well.  I do get having a stand alone calculator though.


----------



## BGHansen

7milesup said:


> Not sure if you have a smart phone Bruce but there are numerous apps that you can download to emulate scientific calculators.   I use CalcTastic on mine to emulate a TI-84.  Works very well.  I do get having a stand alone calculator though.


Actually my favorite is an HP-67 programmable calculator, have that app on my phone.  I seem to fat-finger more often on the touch screen plus grime up the display.  Just prefer the tactile feedback of a "real" calculator.  My next purchase will be a full-size IP-65 keyboard for the Tormach.  I despise my current mini keyboard.

Bruce


----------



## Bi11Hudson

My thinking here is that "Trig" functions use a look-up table. That alone takes up a LOT of memory. Most phone apps use an approximation that is calculated. And many "scientific" calculators and some computers. For any real tight figuring, I use the trig tables from a print book, usually Machinery's Handbook or some such. 

I don't trust "electronic devices" much more than doing rough figuring in my head. 50+ years of working rotating magnetics has left a large number of "approximations" in my memory. Of specific note is Sin 30* is one half and Cos 30* is 0.866. Sin (and Cos) 45* is 0.7471. Memory there predates electronic devices. That gives a number of further approximations simply from juggling the numbers.

The whole point I'm trying to make is if you need trig, *learn trig*. As machinists, we don't need any more than plane trig, right triangle solution. The solutions can be learned in about 30 minutes. . . Well, call it an hour. I've taught it in 20 minutes and it took another 20 minutes to memorize the functions. If I had attended high school, it may have taken a day, no more. But I'm a grammar school dropout. . .

Whatever you do, *don't depend on some external device*. Learn and use something in your head for doing rough figuring. And a "lookup table" for closer figuring. The electronic devices make things go faster but you *must know* roughly what you're looking for before you start. 

Sermon finished. . . 

.


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

I program cnc stuff by long hand, having two calculators is pretty much needed, the phones run out of battery or dim the screen witch gets real annoying, after 7 hours of programming phone batteries just don’t last.


----------



## Ianagos

I did give glacern a call and they did admit to copying the parlec vise but I couldn’t get a strait answer on if they were made in the same factory as the teco/parlec. From what I gathered the more premium options are cast by a Japanese company (only was told the company was Japanese not where they are cast) and ground in the USA. So I didn’t really make a conclusion because some of my questions got diverted in such a way to as to avoid being answered. But the fellow I spoke to was very nice and I had no issues with customer service. 

The way I see it he was a good salesman he left me more confused and pushed me to the higher quality products that he assured me were made here while we didn’t talk much about the standard options as he called it.


----------



## extropic

Bill,
I don't expect your "sermon" will yield many converts to using trig tables, but I agree that having an internal (automatic and always running in the background) understanding of the fundamentals is important.

The most ridiculous example I can think of is the cashier that miss-keys the amount tendered ($200 instead of $20) and can't make correct change (has to cancel the transaction and start over) out of his/her head.


----------



## NCjeeper

Buffalo21 said:


> I‘ve bought working, street legal, licensable and drivable cars for less than that vise.


Me too. Paid 75 bucks for a 1968 chevy 2 door. 307 v8 and 3 on the tree. That was back in 1984 though.  Drove it for 2 years until the motor dropped a valve. Sold it to a junkyard for 50 bucks.


----------



## NCjeeper

Not metal related but I did use power tools to mount them. New houses for the locals.


----------



## BGHansen

extropic said:


> Bill,
> I don't expect your "sermon" will yield many converts to using trig tables, but I agree that having an internal (automatic and always running in the background) understanding of the fundamentals is important.
> 
> The most ridiculous example I can think of is the cashier that miss-keys the amount tendered ($200 instead of $20) and can't make correct change (has to cancel the transaction and start over) out of his/her head.


+1.  I learned trig in junior high, high school and college classes, haven't used a trig table since high school.  So much more convenient to have a side opposite of 15 and an adjacent of 23.5 in a right angle triangle and use the calculator to get the tangent of the angle being 0.638297872.  Hit Shift TAN which tells me it's a 32.55000349 degree angle.  I learned long division in probably 3rd grade along with times tables.  I think I could still divide 15 by 23.5 using long division, but it's so much faster using the tech.

Naturally, you have to understand the background to work the problem and get the right answer.  My sister taught high school math which now requires a calculator.  She'd put problems on a test with a right angle triangle and maybe gave them the angles and the length of the hypotenuse.  If she asked for the length of the side adjacent, one of the multiple choice answers would be the sine of the angle times the hypotenuse (should be cosine times hypotenuse) to test if they understood the relationships.

Bruce


----------



## hman

*Bi11Hudson - *I "grew up" in the sliderule era.  One very valuable "lesson" in that method is the requirement to do an approximate/rough calculation in your head, so that you could keep track of the decimal place.  Also valuable in that a nonsensical answer stands out if it's way different than your guesstimate, and you have a chance to correct your error.  

Just punching keys on a calculator and trusting what comes up on the display can lead to disaster.  Kinda relates to the point that @extropic made about cashiers.  Been there, seen that, sometimes even had a good laugh.

PS to Bill - The calculation methods used for trig, log, etc. functions on a calculator are tried, tested, and accurate to the number of decimal places the calculator can work with/display.  This can be verified, both against published tables and with self-consistency tests.  In any case, at least as good as the 5 or so digits you'll find in tables.  So if you ever do find yourself needing to use a calculator, you don't have to be concerned with the accuracy of the results.  But use what you're used to working with!

... not that any of us machinists are likely to need more than 5 place accuracy.


----------



## DLF

Got a beautiful set of SOMET gage blocks: 1.001 ... 1.009mm. New old stock, in mint condition








A gage block accessory set. Again new old stock in good condition (still has the ear wax on all the parts), but the wooden box has a lot of patina (has seen better days, but not broken or something).







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## NCjeeper

The accessory set is pretty neat.


----------



## DiscoDan

Just a few finds while on vacation.


----------



## Ianagos

Got a whole bunch of carbide inserts. 

I ordered a big order of some Chinese stuff aswell that I’m waiting on.


----------



## darkzero

Oh man, it's been a few months since I've visited this thread!  

Finally got me a set of pin gages that I've been wanting for a very long time! 2 sets actually. They're not Meyer or Starrett, etc. which I can't afford. I was originally going to buy SPI. These are import by HHIP. I have some stuff from HHIP & have been happy, these look like they will be perfectly fine for my hobby use. No more having to use drill bits or transfer punches & guessing.   

440 pcs total, class ZZ minus. M1 set is .061" to .250", M2 set is .251" to .500". Got a 20% coupon code from Zoro for July 4th. Paid $137 for both sets before tax, free shipping. They were dropped shipped by HHIP which is not far from me so they arrived the next day. I didn't realize the M2 set would be so big & heavy. Cases had a few minor scuffs but that's ok, I'm just glad they arrived with no damage. UPS did damage the box a bit but HHIP packaged them well.


----------



## darkzero

Got me a set of Lufkin calipers & dividers, purchased separately. Not the smallest ones they make but I wanted small ones cause they are cute (I suppose it's wrong to call machinists tools cute?). Didn't want to get them too small so they would actually be useful when I need to use them. I haven't done any clean up on them yet.

I've always wanted round leg calipers & dividers. Starretts in nice condition go for more than I want to pay. I like old Lufkin stuff although these are the first that I actually own myself.


----------



## Gaffer

I picked up an Interapid .0005" dial test indicator with Indicol universal holder off Ebay, and The Perfectionists: How Precision Engineers Created the Modern World. David R8 said it was a great read. I also have an 11th edition of the Machinery's Handbook on the way.


----------



## darkzero

Another cute one, there I go again.   But whatever, I sent this back today. I knew it was import & these days Fowler is much like SPI so I thought I would take the chance. I've had SPI import micrometers that were actually pretty nice. I really wanted to keep it but wasn't happy with the quality even though I got it more for the novelty than actual use. That's ok, I have a Starret 0-1/2" micrometer anyway but it's not as tiny.


----------



## DavidR8

darkzero said:


> Another cute one, there I go again.  But whatever, I sent this back today. I knew it was import & these days Fowler is much like SPI so I thought I would take the chance. I've had SPI import micrometers that were actually pretty nice. I really wanted to keep it but wasn't happy with the quality even though I got it more for the novelty than actual use. That's ok, I have a Starret 0-1/2" micrometer anyway but it's not as tiny.
> 
> View attachment 329442
> View attachment 329443



Argh your pics are not loading Will!


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## darkzero

DavidR8 said:


> Argh your pics are not loading Will!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Awe man! I do see them right now on my phone. I had a heck of a time just trying to make them posts. I had to transfer the pics to my PC & use Firefox.

My first post I had typed out 3 times on my phone. Cut & paste functions didn't work, problems with uploading, & when I did get them to upload couldn't submit the post. Save draft feature didn't work. I hope this security error gets fixed soon. I already hate & avoid dealing with the lag issue we've been having. Which is why I haven't been on here much lately.


----------



## Nogoingback

darkzero said:


> Another cute one, there I go again.   But whatever, I sent this back today. I knew it was import & these days Fowler is much like SPI so I thought I would take the chance. I've had SPI import micrometers that were actually pretty nice. I really wanted to keep it but wasn't happy with the quality even though I got it more for the novelty than actual use. That's ok, I have a Starret 0-1/2" micrometer anyway but it's not as tiny.
> 
> View attachment 329442
> View attachment 329443



That micrometer is definitely cute...


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## gr8legs

Bi11Hudson said:


> Whatever you do, *don't depend on some external device*. Learn and use something in your head for doing rough figuring. And a "lookup table" for closer figuring. The electronic devices make things go faster but you *must know* roughly what you're looking for before you start.



60+ years ago I learned about then famous Native American Chief SOH CAH TOA - Mnemonic for trigonometric functions of a right triangle:

Sine =Opposite / Hypotenuse
Cosine = Adjacent / Hypotenuse
Tangent = Opposite / Adjacent

Still with me - like an earworm of 'It's a Small World'

And growing up with a slide rule instead of a calculator the first approximation was done mentally so you'd put the decimal point in the right place and not figure 300 / 12 was 288 due to fat thumbing the wrong function key.

I still have a few slide rules strategically placed around the house - no better tool for quickly re-proportioning a ratio!







Stu


----------



## FOMOGO

Got these the other day, after someone here posted them. Was going to make some, but don't think I could do it for $40 each, not to mention my time. Seem to be very well made, 12k pound capacity each, and will come in handy in the next month, when I should finally be moving all my equipment to the new space. Mike



	

		
			
		

		
	
[ATTACH


----------



## Ianagos

They work pretty well I bought a set. I recommend you only use 3 in most situations. Also a 5/8 rod through the handles of 2 to tie them together can really help. I then put another 5/8 bar in the third one to steer.


----------



## FOMOGO

Thanks for the tips. Sounds like a plan. Mike



Ianagos said:


> They work pretty well I bought a set. I recommend you only use 3 in most situations. Also a 5/8 rod through the handles of 2 to tie them together can really help. I then put another 5/8 bar in the third one to steer.


----------



## Buffalo21

FOMOGO said:


> Got these the other day, after someone here posted them. Was going to make some, but don't think I could do it for $40 each, not to mention my time. Seem to be very well made, 12k pound capacity each, and will come in handy in the next month, when I should finally be moving all my equipment to the new space. Mike
> 
> View attachment 329470
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [ATTACH



I have 2 sets of them, you get a 80,000# boiler up on them, they are still hard to move


----------



## Ianagos

You can also weld up something like this that fits on a bottle jack to use as a tie jack. It works great and not hard to make.







I also use rubber pard on the top of my skates. Helps with gripping the skates like to slide out especially if they are not tied like I mentioned


----------



## pontiac428

Good tips from all on the skates. I found out the hard way that 4 skates wander on uneven concrete, and that they need to be perfectly aligned. Otherwise, they have helped me move my 4500# mill around the shop with relative ease. Best to use two people and some Egyptian style pry bars.


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

FOMOGO said:


> Got these the other day, after someone here posted them. Was going to make some, but don't think I could do it for $40 each, not to mention my time. Seem to be very well made, 12k pound capacity each, and will come in handy in the next month, when I should finally be moving all my equipment to the new space. Mike
> 
> View attachment 329470
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [ATTACH



Skates work really well on concrete, if you have trouble keeping 4 to stay under a machine try 3 out. its hard to get them to sit nice and not slide on 4 points


----------



## FOMOGO

I tried those Egyptian style bars, but the the papyrus just didn't seem to hold up, and if you happen to spill your beer on one they're totally useless. Cheers, Mike



pontiac428 said:


> Best to use two people and some Egyptian style pry bars.


----------



## Ianagos

FOMOGO said:


> I tried those Egyptian style bars, but the the papyrus just didn't seem to hold up, and if you happen to spill your beer on one they're totally useless. Cheers, Mike



You must have gotten the Chinese knock off ones.


----------



## hman

... either that, or he's in de-nile (though it might not be fair-o' me to say so).


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Well, it seems my computer will let me in again. I didn't expect it till Monday, what with the 4th and all. Anyway, up front I'm not real good at articulating my thoughts. The lack of high school, where such ideas are taught. I'm self educated. . .

I use a calculator or on the computer as much as by "hand". Have since HP came out with RPN devices in the '70s. I don't object to electronic devices as such. Nor do I use a look-up (trig) table much. What I object to is people punching keys without having any idea of the answer they're looking for. I have slide rules. . . but haven't used one for years. And guages, and protractors, and Autocad, and lots of other goodies. A good "machinist's" protractor that has a lens. With careful use, it will allow reading partial degrees. 

Learning "solid" trig for navigation, plane trig is a piece of cake. And why learn navigation when I was an electrician? Because it interested me, not that I would ever need it. Although it came in handy when I took an interest in "Bucky balls".

The whole point to the original thought was to remind folks that the _mindless_ punching of keys is the cause of society in general falling behind. Garbage in, garbage out. GIGO. . . Know the answer you're looking for, within a few degrees. It's human nature to make mistakes, the fellow who doesn't make mistakes isn't doing (making) anything. Let's keep the mistakes down to appearance rather than function.

.


----------



## DavidR8

Bi11Hudson said:


> Well, it seems my computer will let me in again. I didn't expect it till Monday, what with the 4th and all. Anyway, up front I'm not real good at articulating my thoughts. The lack of high school, where such ideas are taught. I'm self educated. . .
> 
> I use a calculator or on the computer as much as by "hand". Have since HP came out with RPN devices in the '70s. I don't object to electronic devices as such. Nor do I use a look-up (trig) table much. What I object to is people punching keys without having any idea of the answer they're looking for. I have slide rules. . . but haven't used one for years. And guages, and protractors, and Autocad, and lots of other goodies. A good "machinist's" protractor that has a lens. With careful use, it will allow reading partial degrees.
> 
> Learning "solid" trig for navigation, plane trig is a piece of cake. And why learn navigation when I was an electrician? Because it interested me, not that I would ever need it. Although it came in handy when I took an interest in "Bucky balls".
> 
> The whole point to the original thought was to remind folks that the _mindless_ punching of keys is the cause of society in general falling behind. Garbage in, garbage out. GIGO. . . Know the answer you're looking for, within a few degrees. It's human nature to make mistakes, the fellow who doesn't make mistakes isn't doing (making) anything. Let's keep the mistakes down to appearance rather than function.
> 
> .



In a similar vein, my father (grade six education retired as a road engineer) would not permit me the use of a calculator in high school. Said that I needed to learn how math worked. 
Physics 12 without a calculator was brutal. But my math skills were top-drawer. 
Note “were”, now I don’t use them as much and they have deteriorated. 


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----------



## lordbeezer

Picked up a piece of aluminum 29”x 27” milled top and bottom with 609 holes. Lot are threaded. Not sure what to do with it. Fixture plate maybe


----------



## hman

Wowsers!  That's one beaudaceous chunk of metal.  Obviously, some kind of fixture plate ... material might well be "mic-6" tooling plate.  Hope you find a most wonderful use for it.


----------



## lordbeezer

Probably will be stuck in corner until I say why the hell did I buy this. 2 3/8” thick. Heavier than I thought it would be. Also picked up aloris qctp and 5 holders. Retired my Dorian for awhile. AXA.


----------



## Superburban

My drill press came with a smaller plate. All mine are threaded holes, so I installed grub/set screws in all the holes to make cleanup simpler. I can easily find a hole to use for hold down bolts.


----------



## GreatOldOne

Tesa 17-20mm bore mic


----------



## John O

needed 2 sizes of brass tubing 6" long, could only buy 12' lengths


----------



## DavidR8

Scooped up this Speedaire 2 hp compressor for $80. I have a small, portable compressor but I wanted something a bit bigger to run the odd air tool here and there.
Needs a bit of a clean up but it's in excellent condition. Zero water in the tank.


----------



## FOMOGO

Love your drill press and especially the table. Always on the The lookout for one, but no joy yet. Cheers, Mike



Superburban said:


> My drill press came with a smaller plate. All mine are threaded holes, so I installed grub/set screws in all the holes to make cleanup simpler. I can easily find a hole to use for hold down bolts.


----------



## Janderso

Red box,!
UPS in three days?? I got lucky.
Starrett 91 C


----------



## DavidR8

Janderso said:


> Red box,!
> UPS in three days?? I got lucky.
> Starrett 91 C



Gosh, that last photo is an art shot!
Mind if I print and frame it for my shop?


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## Superburban

FOMOGO said:


> Love your drill press and especially the table. Always on the The lookout for one, but no joy yet. Cheers, Mike


Thanks, That was the ebay pic, it has 4 heads. currently I just have two mounted, but thinking of mounting the other 2. 1 head has power feed, which I have not been able to get working right, but likely from not playing around enough. The thing is built like a tank, and weighs like 2. Even has the tank  and motor in the base for coolant. Snagged it off Ebay for $400, and an overnight trip to Denver and back.

Here is a thread I did a few years back.









						Fosdick 4bm
					

Here is my Fosdick 4BM. I picked this up a few years ago. it is the 4 head version. It came with one head attached, and the other three on skids.




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## BROCKWOOD

My first participation in an online auction was back in February. Of course there were items that were 'come pick it up yourself'. I'm a 1000 miles from the site, so I had to be realistic & made a list of items the auction company would ship that I was interested in. For those that have never participated in an online auction, I'll take a minute to paint the picture. For a time, often a month, each item (Lot #) is available to bid on. Then, at a prearranged time, Lot # 1 goes into a count down to closing. Each lot closes 1 after the other in maybe 5 minute intervals. Highest bidder wins. As I was following along (& keeping up with the prices of what I had on my list) a friend won an item that he would have to go pick up. I quickly reached out to him to see if he could help with shipping for me. He agreed & suddenly my options were greatly increased. As is usually the case, item after item that I wanted bid up to a higher price than I was willing to pay. But, I did win 3 x 5 gallon buckets of horizontal mill cutters.




Kind of like a box of chocolates, no telling what all is in there.

I paid online & my friend picked up my winnings the next day. Then the 'Rona hit & our ship via Fastenal plan was (& is still) no longer an option. USPS Flat Rate boxes it is then. Might not look it in the above pic, but that is about 490 pounds of steel. Took 7 boxes to get them here. Unpacked this morning & here is what I bought!




All I can really say is thank you, Chris, for your help. Oh, & whoever wrote "Death by a 1000 cuts" must have been at minimum a machinist's apprentice. These, every one, are all still very sharp & most show no signs of ever having been used.


----------



## Janderso

Janderso said:


> Red box,!
> UPS in three days?? I got lucky.
> Starrett 91 C


I’m a little disappointed in Starrett.
I was playing around with it, adjusting the clamp and I noticed a gritty feel.
I took it apart to find a dry, dirty, gritty mechanism.
I expected a smooth action.
Cleaned and oiled it, better but there is a catch like a burr is causing a bind.
I’ll strip it down and see if I can find it.
This thing is pressed together on a splined shaft.
Maybe I’ll return it.
See the grit? I didn’t get it all.

Edit, I just checked for some recent reviews. It looks like this is a common issue lately with Starrett.
Too bad, they have a good name, I hope they straighten this out and spend the time to finish the tool before shipping.

Ten minutes later.
Polished the end that spins in the bottom of the handle, greased it, cleaned the grit again.
Works smooth with no glitchy feel.
Still, Starrett should have done this for the price of these.


----------



## Janderso

BROCKWOOD said:


> My first participation in an online auction was back in February. Of course there were items that were 'come pick it up yourself'. I'm a 1000 miles from the site, so I had to be realistic & made a list of items the auction company would ship that I was interested in. For those that have never participated in an online auction, I'll take a minute to paint the picture. For a time, often a month, each item (Lot #) is available to bid on. Then, at a prearranged time, Lot # 1 goes into a count down to closing. Each lot closes 1 after the other in maybe 5 minute intervals. Highest bidder wins. As I was following along (& keeping up with the prices of what I had on my list) a friend won an item that he would have to go pick up. I quickly reached out to him to see if he could help with shipping for me. He agreed & suddenly my options were greatly increased. As is usually the case, item after item that I wanted bid up to a higher price than I was willing to pay. But, I did win 3 x 5 gallon buckets of horizontal mill cutters.
> 
> View attachment 330052
> 
> 
> Kind of like a box of chocolates, no telling what all is in there.
> 
> I paid online & my friend picked up my winnings the next day. Then the 'Rona hit & our ship via Fastenal plan was (& is still) no longer an option. USPS Flat Rate boxes it is then. Might not look it in the above pic, but that is about 490 pounds of steel. Took 7 boxes to get them here. Unpacked this morning & here is what I bought!
> 
> View attachment 330053
> 
> 
> All I can really say is thank you, Chris, for your help. Oh, & whoever wrote "Death by a 1000 cuts" must have been at minimum a machinist's apprentice. These, every one, are all still very sharp & most show no signs of ever having been used.


Holy cow man.
You scored big time.


----------



## Janderso

DavidR8 said:


> In a similar vein, my father (grade six education retired as a road engineer) would not permit me the use of a calculator in high school. Said that I needed to learn how math worked.
> Physics 12 without a calculator was brutal. But my math skills were top-drawer.
> Note “were”, now I don’t use them as much and they have deteriorated.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Interesting,
Your Dad meant well but think of the time you spent doing the work that you already knew.
I agree you need to know how to do the math, then move on to the next lesson.
I bet you had strong opinions on his methods.


----------



## DavidR8

Janderso said:


> Interesting,
> Your Dad meant well but think of the time you spent doing the work that you already knew.
> I agree you need to know how to do the math, then move on to the next lesson.
> I bet you had strong opinions on his methods.



I think he was just relaying what he had to do. Reading math books by candlelight trying to better himself so he probably thought that was the only way. 
And I definitely was not a happy camper about it. I was a bit of an outcast in school because of the things I had to do as a result of having parents who were old enough to be my grandparents. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Janderso

David,
You turned out just fine!
I bet that was hard having older parents.


----------



## francist

DavidR8 said:


> because of the things I had to do as a result of having parents who were old enough to be my grandparents.


Aaahhh, thaaat explains it......... 

Just joshin’ — my parents were 45 and 47 when I happened along.

-f


----------



## JRaut

Just got a new-to-me Spanish-made Enco 12" vertical/horizontal rotary table!

And man, did I score a good one....

I purchased this RT at an auction for the shop tools of a high school a few hours away (bummer that it was shutting down its shop, but that's the way of the world it seems). I didn't have the time or desire to drive all that way to inspect, so I figured I'd take a bit of a gamble and bid on it, sight unseen, based on a few photos (the two below plus a few more). I reckoned chances were high that it was beat to hell, as it was coming out of a high school. I was high bid. And after fees, taxes, etc., I ended up paying $220 for it.




I just spent the last couple evenings completely disassembling it and cleaning it up. And boy howdy, thing is CLEAN. There's not a single apprentice mark on the entire thing; not a single drill mark in the face, absolutely zero wear anywhere. The circular V-way was scraped in (or at least flaked) and there is zero evidence of any wear there either. The more I dug into it, the more I became convinced that the high school bought it, stuck it in a corner, and never used it. Seriously though, I would honestly be surprised if it was used more than 5 times. Ever.




Now, the best part! A few days after I won the auction (but before I got my hands on the RT), I got a letter in the mail from the auction house, saying they found this while doing some clean-out. How cool! And really, really nice for the guys to send it over my way. The hand-written test card shows the angular deviation all the way 'round the circle, and concludes it's +/-24" to true. For reference, here are some claimed rotational accuracies of other similarly sized tables:
     Moore (Ultra) -- 4"
     Moore (Standard) -- 24"
     Yuasa -- 45"
     this Enco -- 48"
     Troyke -- 60"
     Phase II -- ~80".
So it's good, it just ain't a Moore. 




It looks damn huge sitting on the table of my Bridgeport, whether lying flat or standing upright. And the thing weighs a ton (well, about 170 pounds actually). I'm a young, fit guy, but holy cow, that's a lot of weight to lug around! I certainly couldn't lift it from ground level up to the mill table without putting my toes (and the RT) in serious jeopardy.




By the way, the number "19" was stamped into both the base casting and on the underside of the table. Is this really the 19th one of these made? Based on the calibration card, it was born in June of 1980, so it just turned 40 years young!




The worm/gear set is a 90:1 ratio, so one handle turn equals 4 degrees. It's graduated in minutes, with a vernier reading to 6 seconds. As a special bonus, it has 36 direct indexing detents around the perimeter to accommodate a spring-loaded pin. Definitely will be a time saver if I want 2, 3, 4, 6, 9, 12, 18, or 36 divisions.




So what do you guys do with large rotary tables? Leave it mounted on the mill table? Or only install it when you need it? I'm going tomorrow to check out one of those Hoyer-style medical lifts, which are quite a bit smaller than a regular engine hoist (capacity of 400#). Priced reasonably, so unless it's not working, I'll probably snatch it up.

Anyway, I simply could not be more pleased with this purchase. Other than some flaked-off paint, the thing is essentially new.


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> Aaahhh, thaaat explains it.........
> 
> Just joshin’ — my parents were 45 and 47 when I happened along.
> 
> -f



Jeepers, that’s almost exactly the age of my parents.

Dad was 48, mom was 42. Dad was ex-Canadian army, joined up in ‘38, was on the front lines from Sicily in 1943 to the end in Holland. 
Let’s just say I had basic training as a child.

On Saturdays he’d go to the mall and before going out separate ways, we’d “synchronize watches”. 
He was my hero. Really miss him. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## francist

DavidR8 said:


> Jeepers, that’s almost exactly the age of my parents.


Oops — looks like my math is a bit out. Like nearly ten years! 
I had an uncle who was in Italy and Berlin as a medic but my Dad was a bit too young yet. Reserves only, D-Company I think out of Grande Prairie. Married my Mom in ‘49. I don’t think you ever stop missing them.

-f


----------



## extropic

JRaut said:


> Just got a new-to-me Spanish-made Enco 12" vertical/horizontal rotary table!
> snip>



You got a great deal there.
I leave my RT off the mill until it's needed.
IMHO, you're exactly on the right track, pursuing a hydraulic device to help handle it. You'll never regret it.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

I want to touch on DavidR8's story. I am convinced that the dumbing down of America began with the self cancelling turn signal, so it might be best to view this as comedy.

My dad made flash cards & drilled me daily on multiplication (in the 1st grade). I like math & had great skills. (Thanks Dad!) But, by high school trig, calculators were becoming mandatory. I resisted & still completed my tests within the allotted time with great scores. Then the teacher finally swore to flunk me if I didn't use a calculator. Been dumbing down ever since.

Fast forward. My daughter is in elementary. The assignment was division. So, I taught her how to do real long hand division. Next day, she is 1st to finish the test & has all her answers right. The teacher marked it as an 'F' because she didn't guestimate the answers in the same manner as was being taught. Dumbing down of America. It's tough to get people to understand that to excel it's practically necessary to pretend you can't think outside the boxes assigned to your position. Sometimes pissing off the higher ups is the only thanks you can hope for when going above & beyond!


----------



## Aukai

That is disturbing^^^
Big score on the cutters, I'm also impressed that the bench has no apparent sag from the weight, unless the bench grinder is supporting it, but I don't think so....


----------



## BROCKWOOD

Aukai, Yes, big score. Very happy - overwhelmed actually. Right happy with that organizer holding up so much weight. But, yeah, the disturbing part: there are always ways to work around these things & keep a positive attitude. In 24 hours it hasn't sagged at all. But I erred on the side of caution & moved the large stack down to the table top. Oh the rearranging I'm faced with now!


----------



## Firstram

BROCKWOOD said:


> The teacher marked it as an 'F' because she didn't guestimate the answers in the same manner as was being taught.




I'm sure you'll have a conversation with the Teacher and/or the School Board!


----------



## ddickey

There have been a lot of auctions in MN this summer with lots of things I need/want. T&C, grinders, SG's giant surface plates. Since I'm in the middle of a move that won't end until fall I had to pass on everything. Looking for a Wells Index if anyone has a connection. So I had to settle for a dumb old new end mill at 80% off of retail
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
.


----------



## NCjeeper

Scored this Ames indicator on E-bay. 6 inches of travel and nice large face. Perfect to use on the Monarch lathe.


----------



## Janderso

You just got to believe Jraut.
Beautiful rotary table.
How you gonna move it?


----------



## ACHiPo

Janderso said:


> Red box,!
> UPS in three days?? I got lucky.
> Starrett 91 C


Obviously avoided Oakland!


----------



## ACHiPo

Janderso said:


> I’m a little disappointed in Starrett.
> I was playing around with it, adjusting the clamp and I noticed a gritty feel.
> I took it apart to find a dry, dirty, gritty mechanism.
> I expected a smooth action.
> Cleaned and oiled it, better but there is a catch like a burr is causing a bind.
> I’ll strip it down and see if I can find it.
> This thing is pressed together on a splined shaft.
> Maybe I’ll return it.
> See the grit? I didn’t get it all.
> 
> Edit, I just checked for some recent reviews. It looks like this is a common issue lately with Starrett.
> Too bad, they have a good name, I hope they straighten this out and spend the time to finish the tool before shipping.
> 
> Ten minutes later.
> Polished the end that spins in the bottom of the handle, greased it, cleaned the grit again.
> Works smooth with no glitchy feel.
> Still, Starrett should have done this for the price of these.


My "B" is a bit gritty as well.  Pretty disappointing for a $100 tap handle!


----------



## Janderso

ACHiPo said:


> My "B" is a bit gritty as well.  Pretty disappointing for a $100 tap handle!


Evan,
polish the Nubbin on the stem, it made a huge difference For me.
I’ve wanted one of these 12” tap wrenches for a while now. Just couldn’t justify it. Never stoppEd me before...
I broke the Irwin, piece of junk.


----------



## ACHiPo

Jeff,
I bought the "B" about a year ago and used it for the first time this past week.  It worked ok, but was definitely not the feel I was expecting!  I bought the "A" from a retired machinist, and it is about as good as it gets.  Will pull the B apart and clean it up.  I expect that from Shars or Grizzly, not from Starrett!
Evan


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

DavidR8 said:


> Jeepers, that’s almost exactly the age of my parents.
> 
> Dad was 48, mom was 42. Dad was ex-Canadian army, joined up in ‘38, was on the front lines from Sicily in 1943 to the end in Holland.
> Let’s just say I had basic training as a child.
> 
> On Saturdays he’d go to the mall and before going out separate ways, we’d “synchronize watches”.
> He was my hero. Really miss him.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



This hits home, I am a bit younger so it was my grandparents what fought in ww2. grandpa joined in 1939 a few years to young, served until 1945 with his brother, itily, germany, france. nothing short of a miracle the two survived, he stayed in france and had a wife/ kids there before moving back to alberta.

Those men were made of iron, but had the sweet heart of a poppy. both are gone now, but i keep a poppy on my toolbox for them i dont think the world will see such dedicated and hard workers again.


----------



## Superburban

Firstram said:


> I'm sure you'll have a conversation with the Teacher and/or the School Board!


One of the things taught in school now days, is estimating. so 9+18 is supposed to be rounded to 10+20, and get 30, and not 27.  My Son had a hard time with it because he understood math, and could do most of it in his head at that point.


----------



## dpb

I ordered the BS-1 dividing head from PM today.  They’re on sale.
Looking forward to playing with it.


----------



## Firstram

Superburban said:


> One of the things taught in school now days, is estimating. so 9+18 is supposed to be rounded to 10+20, and get 30, and not 27.  My Son had a hard time with it because he understood math, and could do most of it in his head at that point.



9+18 will never equal 30, what's the point? I would have a hard time with that too.


----------



## JRaut

Janderso said:


> You just got to believe Jraut.
> Beautiful rotary table.
> How you gonna move it?


Found this little 400-pound capacity lift kicking around Craigslist this weekend, so I snagged it up.

$60

It's either a Hoyer, or a Hoyer knock-off. Not sure, as there are no longer any tags on it. The guy I bought it from described it as a 'transmission hoist'.

Needed to top off the cylinder with some oil, but it works great! The mast comes off and it tucks nicely behind my Bridgeport.

I plan to use it to pick my new-to-me 170# rotary table. But I'm a bit fearful that it'll now act as an enabler for me to buy more heavy stuff.......


----------



## NCjeeper

Scored this Brown & Sharpe vernier gear tooth caliper. I have been on the look out for one but they usually go for 200-400 bucks. Grab these for 75.


----------



## middle.road

Honey grabbed some catalogs at the last auction, they were going to pitch them and told her to have at 'em.
Just unpacked them last night. Bit of a trip down memory lane.
There's also a Jergen's that I've already placed in my bookcase.



Spoiler: Click Here for Picts...






	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	





	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
...


----------



## middle.road

That's the size I needed for the vises and chucks instead of the big monster I picked up!



JRaut said:


> Found this little 400-pound capacity lift kicking around Craigslist this weekend, so I snagged it up.
> 
> $60
> 
> It's either a Hoyer, or a Hoyer knock-off. Not sure, as there are no longer any tags on it. The guy I bought it from described it as a 'transmission hoist'.
> 
> Needed to top off the cylinder with some oil, but it works great! The mast comes off and it tucks nicely behind my Bridgeport.
> 
> I plan to use it to pick my new-to-me 170# rotary table. But I'm a bit fearful that it'll now act as an enabler for me to buy more heavy stuff.......
> 
> View attachment 330237


----------



## Superburban

Firstram said:


> 9+18 will never equal 30, what's the point? I would have a hard time with that too.


When I was in school, we had to solve the problem, then go back and estimate the answer as a way to check our selves. I think that is what they are after, but disagree that it should be done by itself. It was also with problems that were more then just simple addition.


----------



## Janderso

14" Delta/Rockwell vertical metal/wood band saw. Series 28-200 -1977 looks like it is a Canadian production. The manual comes in English and French.
I've been looking for a while now.
The seller had a twin 6"X 42(48?) belt sander in excellent condition. They are more for wood, I have a Kalamazoo 2x42 but dang I was tempted. He wants $700 for it.


----------



## hman

I remember ordering from Carr-Lane, Stock Drive Product, and Reid.  Memories, indeed!


----------



## Janderso

dpb said:


> I ordered the BS-1 dividing head from PM today.  They’re on sale.
> Looking forward to playing with it.


Please let us know your impressions,


----------



## alloy

Bought this today.  Very clean, low part count, low hours.  Tons of stuff included with it.

Hopefully it will be here the end of next week.


----------



## Superburban

Looks great. I would not even know where to start with something like that.


----------



## alloy

Well it's in Colorado, Conifer to be exact.  Not sure how far you are from it.  You should cruise over and take a look and let me know what you think of it in person.  I'm buying it sight unseen other than pics.

It's been 15 years since I ran a cnc lathe.  I have a few things I want to make on it, mostly I got it to play with since I'm now retired because of a medical condition.  I'm hoping to come up with some new products to compliment my transmission mods I sell.


----------



## Superburban

I would love to, just to see one. But the map says 252 miles each way. 20 years ago, the round trip would have been a nights work. Now definitely could not make it in a day or three.


----------



## extropic

alloy said:


> Bought this today.  Very clean, low part count, low hours.  Tons of stuff included with it.
> snip>



I saw the listing on eBay and I saw that "Manuel" comes with it.
You gona set up a cot for him in the shop?  

Chip conveyor plus bar feeder too. Being retired is pretty good.
I hope you make a mint!


----------



## alloy

Well wish it was closer to you.

Sure, maybe Manuel can walk me through how to operate it.

You know everyone loves the idea of being retired.  It's different. I see my wife go to work everyday and I wonder what she thinks of me being home all the time?  And I actually kinda miss getting up at 4 in the morning going to work and being a part of something bigger than me.

But then there was my jerk of a boss I don't have to deal with anymore.  There are definitely some good things about being retired.


----------



## darkzero

Got me a couple of pin gage handles. Never knew this type existed. They have plastic jaws instead of bushings & each handle covers exactly the entire range of each of the sets I have. My other handle you have to change the bushings for different sizes.

Not that I actually needed them, I don't really have a need to use as Go No-Go but who knows, maybe one day. I just wanted them to fill the empty slots.


----------



## Stonebriar

I bought this Pratt Burnerd C5 collet chuck to go with my PM collet set.


----------



## ACHiPo

Stonebriar said:


> I bought this Pratt Burnerd C5 collet chuck to go with my PM collet set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 330427
> View attachment 330426


Wow those look really clean.  I bought a set of Hardinge collets that looked good in the photo, but once I received them I was disappointed as a few of the ones I'm likely to use (e.g. 1/2") had burrs, which defeats the purpose of spending the bucks for the name brand.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

middle.road said:


> That's the size I needed for the vises and chucks instead of the big monster I picked up!



Just an aside: A few years back I "acquired" a medical wheelchair lift. I wasn't in a chair at the time, just needed it for shop use. It only has a lifting capacity of some 450 pounds, not what I would call a stought hoist. But handy for the small size and folding stands. Fine fit for tight spots. No rust, just boogered up stickers. Cheap cause it was no longer medically certified. 

.


----------



## Janderso

1970's Delta Rockwell 28-300 metal-wood band saw.

I took the covers off, it's complete.


----------



## pontiac428

Janderso said:


> I took the covers off, it's complete.



I would hope so, that looks like a pristine copy you've got there!


----------



## middle.road

I can't top @alloy's CNC Lathe for this month's heaviest, but I am claiming the 'Granite Stoopid' award once again for this month.
I didn't think there'd be anything of any real interest in this auction. I was wrong.
Local auction outfit that usually does estates. Only a 10% Fee. Yeah!


Spoiler: Click Here for Picts...



This is the picture from the auction listing. 6x36x36 Grade 'A'. mfg'd 2018.



But this is what was at the Preview.
Employees were still present, the facility is still shutting down and I was told that the plate had only been un-crated and setup late 2019.
Used a couple or three times to measure some parts.
I couldn't pin them down if the Fowler height gage and the Vee block set were included.
There was a bunch of stuff _not_ included in the auction.






Arrived for pick-up today and they were included!
Honey grabbed it and stashed it in the box and took it straight to the truck.
The Vee Blocks are still in their factory wrappers, haven't been used.





Lucked out again and they still had a forktruck available, extra long forks, if not I would have been up the proverbial creek. Would have had to hire a wrecker.


Not sure if I used enough straps......  
We put rubber pads all around between the plate and the stand and some packing corners between the plate and stand at the corners.



I also scored something for my Better-Half. Figured it would be a wise move since we're knee-deep in granite and she's been helping me sling them.
The current one we have is pushing (20) years old.



And then, and then...
After we were loaded up, I went dumpster diving. The head honcho of the business said that they'd pitched some UHMW plates into the dumpster.
He wasn't kidding. 3/4" & 1-1/2" thk. around 30" long plus smaller pieces.
If anybody needs some - give me a shout.



Time for a cold Cerveza... maybe two...


----------



## Janderso

middle.road said:


> Time for a cold Cerveza... maybe two...


You deserve it.


----------



## DavidR8

middle.road said:


> I can't top @alloy's CNC Lathe for this month's heaviest, but I am claiming the 'Granite Stoopid' award once again for this month.
> I didn't think there'd be anything of any real interest in this auction. I was wrong.
> Local auction outfit that usually does estates. Only a 10% Fee. Yeah!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Click Here for Picts...
> 
> 
> 
> This is the picture from the auction listing. 6x36x36 Grade 'A'. mfg'd 2018.
> View attachment 330455
> 
> 
> But this is what was at the Preview.
> Employees were still present, the facility is still shutting down and I was told that the plate had only been un-crated and setup late 2019.
> Used a couple or three times to measure some parts.
> I couldn't pin them down if the Fowler height gage and the Vee block set were included.
> There was a bunch of stuff _not_ included in the auction.
> 
> View attachment 330456
> 
> View attachment 330458
> 
> 
> Arrived for pick-up today and they were included!
> Honey grabbed it and stashed it in the box and took it straight to the truck.
> The Vee Blocks are still in their factory wrappers, haven't been used.
> View attachment 330457
> 
> View attachment 330459
> 
> 
> Lucked out again and they still had a forktruck available, extra long forks, if not I would have been up the proverbial creek. Would have had to hire a wrecker.
> View attachment 330460
> 
> Not sure if I used enough straps......
> We put rubber pads all around between the plate and the stand and some packing corners between the plate and stand at the corners.
> View attachment 330462
> 
> 
> I also scored something for my Better-Half. Figured it would be a wise move since we're knee-deep in granite and she's been helping me sling them.
> The current one we have is pushing (20) years old.
> View attachment 330465
> 
> 
> And then, and then...
> After we were loaded up, I went dumpster diving. The head honcho of the business said that they'd pitched some UHMW plates into the dumpster.
> He wasn't kidding. 3/4" & 1-1/2" thk. around 30" long plus smaller pieces.
> If anybody needs some - give me a shout.
> View attachment 330466
> 
> 
> Time for a cold Cerveza... maybe two...


I think that qualifies as score of the....week? Month?


----------



## brino

middle.road said:


> Time for a cold Cerveza... maybe two...



okay, but you're buying with the money saved on the height gauge, oh, and the v-blocks, oh and the plastic..........
-brino


----------



## dpb

Bought the Harbor Freight US GENERAL 44x22 13 drawer tool chest.  First impressions are positive.  It’s no light weight, ~300lbs.


----------



## Janderso

dpb said:


> Bought the Harbor Freight US GENERAL 44x22 13 drawer tool chest.  First impressions are positive.  It’s no light weight, ~300lbs.


I bought it’s little brother. No, not light at all. My neighbor and I got this one off my tailgate, we ended up on the ground once it hit the deck.
Oh wait, I count 13


----------



## middle.road

Why does it seem that lifting stuff after a certain age requires hydraulic assistance?   


Janderso said:


> I bought it’s little brother. No, not light at all. My neighbor and I got this one off my tailgate, we ended up on the ground once it hit the deck.
> Oh wait, I count 13


----------



## alloy

middle.road said:


> Why does it seem that lifting stuff after a certain age requires hydraulic assistance?



Because when we get older we work smarter and not harder


----------



## Aaron_W

dpb said:


> I ordered the BS-1 dividing head from PM today.  They’re on sale.
> Looking forward to playing with it.



I ordered the BS-0 from PM back around February. I'm really impressed with the quality of these things for what they cost. A vintage one might be better but I couldn't find a worn and incomplete vintage dividing head for what PM is charging. Still looking for a project to use it on.  



dpb said:


> Bought the Harbor Freight US GENERAL 44x22 13 drawer tool chest.  First impressions are positive.  It’s no light weight, ~300lbs.



I now have 3 of the HF boxes, the 44" provides a home for my Sherline lathe, a 26" for my Sherline mill and the most recent was a 5 drawer cart which serves as my cart of flatness (12x18" surface plate under the lid). The HF carts and tool chests are a good deal, they don't feel cheap, and are much sturdier than my 26" Husky (Home Depot) cart. They win my best thing HF sells award.   

The accessories that they sell for them are nice a well, I've got a glove box holder, and 2 paper towel holders (regular and blue) on the end of the 44". Matching power strips for both the 44" and 26".


----------



## Janderso

Aaron_W said:


> Still looking for a project to use it on



 I had to stop acquiring tooling because there has to be a place to pause. Otherwise the relationship I have with my wife may not endure 
But seriously, I have thought of a dividing head but would I ever have to make a gear? Maybe.
 Plenty of things I can make with my 5C spin indexer. I have two actually.
I bought one to try out some simple OD grinding on my surface grinder to reduce a hardened shaft.
I've gotten to the point I can pretty much do what I want and if I dream up a project that requires a new tool, I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
Those US General tool boxes are a fair deal, I agree.


----------



## Aaron_W

Janderso said:


> I had to stop acquiring tooling because there has to be a place to pause. Otherwise the relationship I have with my wife may not endure
> But seriously, I have thought of a dividing head but would I ever have to make a gear? Maybe.
> Plenty of things I can make with my 5C spin indexer. I have two actually.
> I bought one to try out some simple OD grinding on my surface grinder to reduce a hardened shaft.
> I've gotten to the point I can pretty much do what I want and if I dream up a project that requires a new tool, I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
> Those US General tool boxes are a fair deal, I agree.




Well I have this stack of gear cutters I got with the horizontal mill, so I'm going to make some gears just don't know what for yet.  





I seriously might just make a gear chain with a hand crank just to do it.


----------



## Janderso

Just learning how to do it would be interesting.
I know John York has cut more gears than Custer had Indians. (Is that too Political?)


----------



## Janderso

Aaron_W said:


> Well I have this stack of gear cutters I got with the horizontal mill, so I'm going to make some gears just don't know what for yet.
> 
> View attachment 330586
> 
> 
> 
> I seriously might just make a gear chain with a hand crank just to do it.


Where did you get those cool trays?


----------



## Aaron_W

Janderso said:


> Just learning how to do it would be interesting.
> I know John York has cut more gears than Custer had Indians. (Is that too Political?)



Where do you think I got the idea that horizontal mills aren't hopelessly obsolete and useless from?   




Janderso said:


> Where did you get those cool trays?



They are Milwaukee stacking boxes. They were on sale so I bought a couple, thinking they might be handy for keeping welding stuff together on the cart but they worked even better for the horizontal mill tooling so they got repurposed. I ended up with a couple of similar but slightly smaller / cheaper Husky boxes for the welding cart as they fit the cart better.


I think they are this one

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...ep-Pro-Small-Parts-Organizer-225046/205847797


----------



## middle.road

*Say WHAT?! *
Quick someone - intervention is need in Chico, CA!


Janderso said:


> I had to *stop acquiring tooling* because there has to be a place to pause. Otherwise the relationship I have with my wife may not endure
> But seriously, I have thought of a dividing head but would I ever have to make a gear? Maybe.
> Plenty of things I can make with my 5C spin indexer. I have two actually.
> I bought one to try out some simple OD grinding on my surface grinder to reduce a hardened shaft.
> I've gotten to the point I can pretty much do what I want and if I dream up a project that requires a new tool, I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
> Those US General tool boxes are a fair deal, I agree.


----------



## mmcmdl

middle.road said:


> *Say WHAT?! *
> Quick someone - intervention is need in Chico, CA!



Who called ? Mike ? Will ? We have an issue here !


----------



## Ianagos

middle.road said:


> *Say WHAT?! *
> Quick someone - intervention is need in Chico, CA!



Well my wife did want to go visit California. Maybe she can talk your wife in to understanding why we need all this iron.


----------



## alloy

I guess I'm lucky.  I told my wife about the CNC lathe and she asked if I had the money to buy it and I said yes.

She said then buy it then. 

It's money I made in my side business and not household money so it's mine to spend.

I think I'm the only one I know that their hobby more than pays for itself.


----------



## middle.road

alloy said:


> I guess I'm lucky.  I told my wife about the CNC lathe and she asked if I had the money to buy it and I said yes.
> 
> She said then buy it then.
> 
> It's money I made in my side business and not household money so it's mine to spend.
> 
> I think I'm the only one I know that their hobby more than pays for itself.


Then that is not a _hobby_, that is an income generating enterprise.


----------



## dpb

dpb said:


> I ordered the BS-1 dividing head from PM today.  They’re on sale.
> Looking forward to playing with it.


It arrived broken . Transit damage.  I’ve emailed PM, I’m sure it will be handled, but I don’t get to play with it this weekend.  Bummer.


----------



## darkzero

I never had the urge to try single insert indexable endmills. Just figured they wouldn't work well with my little mill/drill. I do have a 1" indexable end mill though that uses APKT inserts. Found this set of 3 on Amazon for over 1/2 off, paid $50. They're coolant through so my guess they weren't good sellers & wanted to get rid of it. At that price I decided to give them a shot cause I have the inserts already, same size as my 1". Figured I'd use them for semi-roughing to save life on my regular end mills. 3/8", 1/2", & 5/8", all have 1/2" shanks, the 5/8" uses 2 inserts.


----------



## darkzero

More Knipex pliers, I love Knipex. Small 5" pliers with smooth jaws. Great for working on stuff you don't want to mar. I'm using them for working on electronics. I got the needle nose ones a couple of months ago & just got the duckbill ones.


----------



## DiscoDan

Picked this up today from a young guy for $125. Was hoping one of the follow rests would fit my Craftsman 12x36 but no luck. One looks shop-made. I don't really need much if this but couldnt best the deal.


----------



## Aukai

I would assume by the proximity of the stash around it, that whatever is attached to the spoker wheel hasn't moved in a bit


----------



## DiscoDan

Aukai, it is a 1927 Model T that is always "this close" to running but just never seems to get the attention.


----------



## middle.road

DiscoDan said:


> Aukai, it is a 1927 Model T that is always "this close" to running but just never seems to get the attention.


Ain'*T* *T*ha*T* always *T*he case?

Grandparents had a 2-car shed back behind the house. Dad had a picture from back in the '50s where there were 15 or 20 T's parked around it.
All nice and neat and not a single one in running condition.
Can you imagine "what-if" they hadn't scrap them?


----------



## alloy

middle.road said:


> Ain'*T* *T*ha*T* always *T*he case?



Your caps lock seems to be stuck


----------



## dpb

dpb said:


> It arrived broken ☹. Transit damage.  I’ve emailed PM, I’m sure it will be handled, but I don’t get to play with it this weekend.  Bummer.


Monday morning I had a response from PM, regarding the broken BS-1.  This morning I had tracking for the new unit.
Stellar customer service!


----------



## Janderso

dpb said:


> It arrived broken ☹. Transit damage.  I’ve emailed PM, I’m sure it will be handled, but I don’t get to play with it this weekend.  Bummer.


Dag nabit, that is a pisser.
Isn't it interesting we feel the same today as we felt as kids with a new toy.


----------



## Janderso

darkzero said:


> More Knipex pliers,


Love Knipex.


----------



## Diecutter

Janderso said:


> Love Knipex.


You can't beat German made tools (or machines), old ones or new ones.


----------



## projectnut

Janderso said:


> *I had to stop acquiring tooling because there has to be a place to pause. Otherwise the relationship I have with my wife may not endure *
> But seriously, I have thought of a dividing head but would I ever have to make a gear? Maybe.
> Plenty of things I can make with my 5C spin indexer. I have two actually.
> I bought one to try out some simple OD grinding on my surface grinder to reduce a hardened shaft.
> I've gotten to the point I can pretty much do what I want and if I dream up a project that requires a new tool, I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
> Those US General tool boxes are a fair deal, I agree.



I have no trouble finding places for tools and machinery.  My wife tells me on a regular basis where I can put them.  I'm not sure I quite understand the exact place she's referring to, but apparently it's a dark place where the moon doesn't shine.


----------



## Dhal22

alloy said:


> Your caps lock seems to be stuck




Certainly the 'T' appears to be.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

'Bout a zillion (well, a couple hundred) small ball bearings. And a package of small screws. For a "_gizmo_" I have in the back of my mind. I have the plexi sheet, just trying to find the right size angle iron. Spread out on the bench, the bearings look like a zillion. Mostly because they're so small. I stumbled onto a vendor on EBay that was clearing out an open package for $10 per hundred. I only *need* about 32, so if any are "out of spec" I just toss it and get another.

The bearings are 2mmX5mmX2.5mm. The screws are 2mm dia by 6mm long. I'll post the end result if I ever get around to making it.

.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

Found the correct 1.5" NMTB 50 for the Wahlhaupter. Restoration seems to be soak a lot n work free a little at a time. It'll get there!


----------



## Gaffer

I've been in the market for a rotary table. I wanted a 10" model, but when I found this Troyke BH12 for $50, I couldn't say no. It is exceptionally smooth and in very good condition. The retired machinist also offered me a Kurt D60 for $100 and I bought it too. It has a few scars on top of the jaws, but is otherwise in very good condition. It was a good day!


----------



## 7milesup

Janderso said:


> Dag nabit, that is a pisser.
> *Isn't it interesting we feel the same today as we felt as kids with a new toy.*


I have no idea what you are talking about...


----------



## lordbeezer

Picked up a oxygen concentrator free off Craigslist. Gonna modify and use 
	

		
			
		

		
	




	

		
			
		

		
	
for brazing and hard soldering.


----------



## Cooter Brown

I finally got my hands on a Biax Power Scraper..... Thank You Richard King for teaching me how to run it..... 
It is a very old Blue model..... Comes with one blade, now I need to put a rush on my carbide lapping machine project....


----------



## ACHiPo

I got this today.  Ordered off Amazon $40 for a bolt-on, $70 for a mag base (I got the bolt-on).  It claims to be 800 lumens, and that seems reasonable based on the brightness.




Also got a 5T/10T toe jack yesterday.


----------



## matthewsx

I've been looking for another torch set since I sold my shop back in 2014 and the buyer wanted the one I had thrown in. @MrWhoopee  posted this one in my town and for $200 I couldn't pass it up. When I got there yesterday I gave the guy $200 bucks and he handed me back a twenty

Cool guy who was moving out of town and realized it was too big for the jewelry work he does. 

Victor torch and gauges with the same size tanks my dad used to have, score....






John


----------



## ACHiPo

matthewsx said:


> I've been looking for another torch set since I sold my shop back in 2014 and the buyer wanted the one I had thrown in. @MrWhoopee  posted this one in my town and for $200 I couldn't pass it up. When I got there yesterday I gave the guy $200 bucks and he handed me back a twenty
> 
> Cool guy who was moving out of town and realized it was too big for the jewelry work he does.
> 
> Victor torch and gauges with the same size tanks my dad used to have, score....
> 
> View attachment 331481
> 
> View attachment 331482
> 
> 
> John


Sweet!


----------



## extropic

matthewsx said:


> I've been looking for another torch set since I sold my shop back in 2014 and the buyer wanted the one I had thrown in. @MrWhoopee  posted this one in my town and for $200 I couldn't pass it up. When I got there yesterday I gave the guy $200 bucks and he handed me back a twenty
> 
> Cool guy who was moving out of town and realized it was too big for the jewelry work he does.
> 
> Victor torch and gauges with the same size tanks my dad used to have, score....
> snip>
> John



OMG!!! Did the $180 include the tanks and the cart too?  SCORE !!!


----------



## DiscoDan

Hit an estate sale yesterday and picked up two B&S surface plates, one steel and on granite....$100 for both. Went back today to see if the Duracraft horizontal band saw was still there but got there just as the new owner was loading it up. I go inside anyway and end up buying a crate full of metal stock for $20. We load that and the guy says"take this flex shaft die grinder on a rolling stand", and then said "take all of these boxes of hardware with you." Score! Guys dad was a machinist for the National Security Agency.


----------



## alloy

DiscoDan said:


> Hit an estate sale yesterday and picked up two B&S surface plates, one steel and on granite....$100 for both. Went back today to see if the Duracraft horizontal band saw was still there but got there just as the new owner was loading it up. I go inside anyway and end up buying a crate full of metal stock for $20. We load that and the guy says"take this flex shaft die grinder on a rolling stand", and then said "take all of these boxes of hardware with you." Score! Guys dad was a machinist for the National Security Agency.



Remember, pictures or it did not happen


----------



## devils4ever

I got this Edge Technology Pro Tram System to speed up tramming my PM25.


----------



## DiscoDan

Ok, here are pics to go with my last post. Remember, $100 for 2 surface plates and $20 for everything else.


----------



## BGHansen

DiscoDan said:


> Ok, here are pics to go with my last post. Remember, $100 for 2 surface plates and $20 for everything else.


Yeah, but how much did you have to spend it gas to get there and home?   
Really nice score, congratulations!

Bruce


----------



## DiscoDan

BGHansen said:


> Yeah, but how much did you have to spend it gas to get there and home?
> Really nice score, congratulations!
> 
> Bruce


It was very close, probably 10 miles. Definitely worth it.


----------



## DavidR8

Yesterday I bought this table for the metal base thinking I could use it for some/all of a new welding cart.
The seller thought the top was melamine but turned out to be a sheet of 1/16” steel with corners. It used to be a display table at a Gap store.

It had an MDF base glued to the underside of the steel top. I managed to peel it off so now have a big steel top 74.75” long by 34.5 wide”.
I’m thinking that I’ll cut it down to the size of my bench top.

The steel frame is 1” square, 1/16” thick.

I took base apart. It was just bolted together. So I have two "U"s which are about 29" tall and the big diamond thing from the middle. I’m wondering if the steel is too lightweight for a welding cart. Maybe I can use the 1” tube for vertical supports and buy some thicker stock for the frames.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## pontiac428

Dang, @DavidR8, I see one heck of a nice shooting bench hidden in that clothing rack.  Or a welding table, seeing how the top is good steel!


----------



## DavidR8

pontiac428 said:


> Dang, @DavidR8, I see one heck of a nice shooting bench hidden in that clothing rack.  Or a welding table, seeing how the top is good steel!


Unfortunately, the top is only 1/16" thick so not much better than the Norther Tool clone table that I have.


----------



## pontiac428

Ah, that settles it.  You already have a welding table!

(Is the Northern Tool table only 1/16 thick?  Yeesh!)


----------



## DavidR8

pontiac428 said:


> Ah, that settles it.  You already have a welding table!
> 
> (Is the Northern Tool table only 1/16 thick?  Yeesh!)


I just measured the Northern table. It's top is 5/64" thick so a whopping 1/64" thicker 

I bought this the other day though and I think it will become a better welding table with a proper 1/2" top.


----------



## Ianagos

I bought a like new ats 5C collets chuck to go with my huge selection of 5c collets.

Now between both of my lathes I have A Jacobs rubber flex chuck, b60 chuck with s-16 and s-20 master collets, a 5c collets chuck, a couple 3 jaw chucks, and a 4jaw

I guess now I need a 16c chuck and a 3j chuck to make sure I have every standard covered.


----------



## alloy

Ianagos said:


> I bought a like new ats 5C collets chuck to go with my huge selection of 5c collets.
> 
> Now between both of my lathes I have A Jacobs rubber flex chuck, b60 chuck with s-16 and s-20 master collets, a 5c collets chuck, a couple 3 jaw chucks, and a 4jaw
> 
> I guess now I need a 16c chuck and a 3j chuck to make sure I have every standard covered.



I like the ATS closers. I have one in 16c, another 5c (different brand)

The ATS is my favorite one.

What spindle mount do you have?

Mine is an A2-6.


----------



## lordbeezer

Traded for a dc power supply and ac variable voltage transformer type power supply.


----------



## Dhal22

pontiac428 said:


> Dang, @DavidR8, I see one heck of a nice shooting bench hidden in that clothing rack.  Or a welding table, seeing how the top is good steel!




I was just thinking that.  Shooting bench that is.


----------



## Ianagos

alloy said:


> I like the ATS closers. I have one in 16c, another 5c (different brand)
> 
> The ATS is my favorite one.
> 
> What spindle mount do you have?
> 
> Mine is an A2-6.



A2-6 on the cnc and the manual is d1-6

Bigger lathe has a2-8 I believe but I haven’t got that running and it just has a 12” power chuck on it.


My other chuck the b60 is ats aswell. They seem to make ok stuff. The run out on that other chuck ain’t the greatest I’ve seen. It’s older though I’ll have to try this chuck out I just gotta make an adaptor for my draw tube and get the huge 10” power chuck off.


----------



## Aukai

David, first thought I had is to figure out how to cut the under center braces free, measure all long tubes for cutting, and cut the table cross ways, overlap the table shortening it by half, you should have an X brace under the table, and double thickness. The X brace would need to be sectioned, and spliced, and everything else welded back together. I'm kind of a hack, but it is a thought I had.


----------



## alloy

Ianagos said:


> A2-6 on the cnc and the manual is d1-6
> 
> Bigger lathe has a2-8 I believe but I haven’t got that running and it just has a 12” power chuck on it.
> 
> 
> My other chuck the b60 is ats as well. They seem to make ok stuff. The run out on that other chuck ain’t the greatest I’ve seen. It’s older though I’ll have to try this chuck out I just gotta make an adapter for my draw tube and get the huge 10” power chuck off.



Here is a pic of my 5c. I think it's made by Dunham.

I never figured out what the slots on the side were for.


----------



## alloy

My lathe is finally on it's way to me.  They loaded it yesterday in Colorado.

Hopefully it gets here without any damage.


----------



## Weldingrod1

Alloy,
That looks like a Harding taper spindle nose! The two perpendicular grooves should actually slope away from the open end: they are like screw threads to pull the chuck onto the taper. Super repeatable!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## alloy

Weldingrod1 said:


> Alloy,
> That looks like a Harding taper spindle nose! The two perpendicular grooves should actually slope away from the open end: they are like screw threads to pull the chuck onto the taper. Super repeatable!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk



I found the closer on the Dunham web site and nothing about the grooves.   It would be nice to know what they are for to add to my versatility of the lathe.

I'd love to find some kind of collet setup that would go to 2" diameter (the through capacity of the spindle) that wouldn't cost me an arm and a leg. 









						DTC-5C-4T-A6
					

5C Collet Chuck Kit:  Includes 4 degree Taper Collet Adapter & Spindle Adapter for A2-6




					www.dunhamtool.com


----------



## Ianagos

Funny from what I understand the threads on the nose of mine are also for Hardinge step collet chucks. I’m sure yours is the same to allow for the use of large 5c step collets.


----------



## Ianagos

alloy said:


> I found the closer on the Dunham web site and nothing about the grooves. It would be nice to know what they are for to add to my versatility of the lathe.
> 
> I'd love to find some kind of collet setup that would go to 2" diameter (the through capacity of the spindle) that wouldn't cost me an arm and a leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DTC-5C-4T-A6
> 
> 
> 5C Collet Chuck Kit:  Includes 4 degree Taper Collet Adapter & Spindle Adapter for A2-6
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.dunhamtool.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 331773





As far as the collet system I have the b60 collet chuck that can hold a bit over 2” and it works good I have an older ats nose cap style and they are also dead length setups. 

I have another that is slightly smaller of the same style collets and it was made by nc quadro and cost me $70 off eBay. Although the collets cost about that much each. Looks identical to the ats setup just smaller so someone copied someone there...

If you get one of those I recommend you get a master s-20 or s-16 collet because the collet pads are more easily available and can be found on eBay more often.


----------



## DavidR8

alloy said:


> My lathe is finally on it's way to me.  They loaded it yesterday in Colorado.
> 
> Hopefully it gets here without any damage.
> 
> View attachment 331770
> View attachment 331771
> View attachment 331772


I think you may need to clean off some bugs when it arrives 
Very cool!


----------



## 7milesup

alloy said:


> My lathe is finally on it's way to me.  They loaded it yesterday in Colorado.
> 
> Hopefully it gets here without any damage.
> 
> View attachment 331770
> View attachment 331771
> View attachment 331772



This is the "Hobby Machinist" forum Alloy.  That looks awfully big for hobby.   LOL.  Just yankin' yer chain...
Looks awesome.  I am hoping they tarp it too.


----------



## alloy

DavidR8 said:


> I think you may need to clean off some bugs when it arrives
> Very cool!



Thanks

Well supposedly it's been tarped.  We shall see when it gets here.

Driver called, will be here on Fiday.


----------



## alloy

7milesup said:


> This is the "Hobby Machinist" forum Alloy.  That looks awfully big for hobby.   LOL.  Just yankin' yer chain...
> Looks awesome.  I am hoping they tarp it too.



Now don't get jealous because of the size of my "tools" 

I have a hobby sized lathe, Jet 13 x 40.  It's a cute little thing.  Everything else is big.

I hope I don't get banned because I've been doing this for 30 years and my "tools" are too big


----------



## 7milesup

alloy said:


> Now don't get jealous because of the size of my "tools"
> I hope I don't get banned because I've been doing this for 30 years and my "tools" are too big



Oh man.....


----------



## DavidR8

Just scooped up this cart. Welding cart here I come!


----------



## Aukai

I'm not sure it's big enough.....


----------



## DavidR8

Aukai said:


> I'm not sure it's big enough.....


It's going to get cut down in size. For $50 I couldn't resist, the casters alone are worth $60-$70 here.


----------



## Ianagos

7milesup said:


> This is the "Hobby Machinist" forum Alloy. That looks awfully big for hobby. LOL. Just yankin' yer chain...
> Looks awesome. I am hoping they tarp it too.



Better not let this guy see my machines....


----------



## alloy

Ianagos said:


> Better not let this guy see my machines....



Nice to know another member with a  "big tool".

We can't let them push us around. Those us us with  "big" gotta stick together ya know


----------



## Ianagos

alloy said:


> Nice to know another member with a "big tool".
> 
> We can't let them push us around. Those us us with "big" gotta stick together ya know



Don’t worry I don’t think they could push us and our machines around if they wanted too haha.

I think my smallest lathe is only about 8000lbs


----------



## alloy

[/QUOTE]


Ianagos said:


> I think my smallest lathe is only about 8000lbs



Thats what my largest lathe weighs


----------



## 7milesup

This is a family friendly forum.  Tool size comparison should only take place on the "other' forum.


----------



## rwm

DavidR8 said:


> Just scooped up this cart. Welding cart here I come!
> View attachment 331793


Where did you find that? I think that would work great as a welding cart with no modification! MIG and plasma cutter on the bottom and TIG on the top so you can fiddle with the controls. Hang accessories on the grids.
R


----------



## alloy

7milesup said:


> This is a family friendly forum.  Tool size comparison should only take place on the "other' forum.



I couldn't help myself having some friendly fun at your expense. 

I got a couple of laughs out of it.

Done with it now.  Will be waiting for my next opportunity to rib someone


----------



## DavidR8

My $50 crazy huge cart purchase is going to yield 50 linear ft of 1” sq tube, 6 ft of 1x2 rectangular tube and 4 high quality casters. Plus some brackets and whatsits. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Aukai

Is that from another dress shop? Just wondering


----------



## DavidR8

Aukai said:


> Is that from another dress shop? Just wondering



I think a warehouse actually. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

rwm said:


> Where did you find that? I think that would work great as a welding cart with no modification! MIG and plasma cutter on the bottom and TIG on the top so you can fiddle with the controls. Hang accessories on the grids.
> R


I got it from Facebook Marketplace. It's ridiculously big for my small shop; 41" long, 27" wide and 70" tall. Has a 750 lb weight capacity.
It's one of these:
https://nationalcart.com/products/rocket-carts/
It has a 2018 mfg date sticker and I expect that it was not an inexpensive unit when new.


----------



## Ianagos

Picked up a saw for a decent price since my brother decided my other saw was his. This saw is temporary till I can get a better saw.


----------



## alloy

My lathe arrived today.   Even before I unloaded it I noticed a problem.  The handle for the main power switch is missing.  I checked the pictures the guy sent me when he loaded it, and the handle was missing then.   I'm not sure if I can activate it without the handle or not.  We are still working on moving it into place.  Hopefully in a few hours I'll have in in position and can play with the switch.  Also got to come up with some mounting pads.  Doesn't have any with it.


----------



## ttabbal

Switches are overrated. Hard wire it on like a MAN! 

or something....


----------



## Dhal22

ttabbal said:


> Switches are overrated. Hard wire it on like a MAN!
> 
> or something....




We don need no stinkin swishes.......


----------



## 7milesup

Dhal22 said:


> We don need no stinkin swishes.......



Switches Dhal...  Switches.   Not swishes.  Well, maybe it is swishes down there... 
But yeah, switches, we don't need no stinking switches...


----------



## alloy

Ok, all 3 of you have just volunteered to try out my new "hard wire" setup.   You just jam the wires into my breaker box.   It's a 70 amp circuit so should handle you and the machine at the same time.

I'll be outside cheering you on and practicing my social distancing


----------



## Z2V

I picked this up off of eBay last week. I will add a spider attachment that @Bamban designed, with his permission, of course.


Oh, I like the box too!!!


----------



## Z2V

alloy said:


> Ok, all 3 of you have just volunteered to try out my new "hard wire" setup.   You just jam the wires into my breaker box.   It's a 70 amp circuit so should handle you and the machine at the same time.
> 
> I'll be outside cheering you on and practicing my social distancing



While toasting their efforts with a good cold beer


----------



## darkzero

The Masterforce shop stool I bought earlier this year was starting to annoy me. Thought I would like the little butt rest thingy or whatever it's called but due to the height of this stool turns out I don't like it. So I bought a replacement bar stool seat. It was supposed to have a 5-1/4" bolt circle but the one I received was 7-1/2". Took the seat apart to fix it. Now I'm happy, so much more comfortable too.

I had another chair with a tractor style seat that I got like 10 yrs ago. Again I thought I would have liked it but same thing as the other one, have to always position the seat right to sit on. It is comfortable but it's hard plastic. Replaced it with the one from the Masterforce & I actually like that seat on this short chair.

This was all supposed to be a quick bolt on swap but nooooo, never that easy! Well at least I had fun playing upholstery guy for a few hours. 

Before:




After:



Funny, the construction paper my lil brother had laying around that I used had the same name.


----------



## Aukai

I've never been that irritated


----------



## darkzero

Well, my butt needs to be happy.


----------



## alloy

darkzero said:


> Well, my butt needs to be happy.



Well i know there is several replies I could make in response to that statement,  but I'll refrain and just say this.

TMI


----------



## alloy

Z2V said:


> While toasting their efforts with a good cold beer



That's a given


----------



## Papa Charlie

Well might as well through my two cents in. I have been doing a little too much purchasing this last couple of months with the inactivity due to Covid.
I am about 2 years away from retirement and trying to put together the equipment and tools to have my shop to do odd jobs from then.
So this is what I purchased so far:

1-6" Mitutoyo Micrometer set
(2) Magnet backed 0-1" Dial Indicators (For use on Lathe or Mill)
Noga DG10533 Dial Indicator Mag Base
HFS Coaxial Center Indicator
Mitutoyo 513-403 Dial Test Indicator, .008 Range, .0001" Graduation
0.251" to 0.500" Plus Pin Gauge Set
MT#3 Dead Center
2 Axis DRO and Scales for my Lathe

No lack of things that I need, despite the tools and measuring equipment that I already have.


----------



## Dhal22

7milesup said:


> Switches Dhal...  Switches.   Not swishes.  Well, maybe it is swishes down there...
> But yeah, switches, we don't need no stinking switches...




Swishes, bagges, have to use the accent for it to be real.






So, swishes or switches?


----------



## Dhal22

darkzero said:


> Well, my butt needs to be happy.




Don't even leave yourself open like that.............  Pardon the double entendre...


----------



## darkzero

Damn mosquitos have been biting me like crazy the past 2 weeks. Saw on the news a couple of days ago that LA county got their first 2 cases of West Nile virus from mosquitos this season. And both cases were from the San Fernando Valley which is where I'm at.  

Bought these this morning. It's zappin time! Not sure if these actually work but it's worth a try. I've been using spray repellent while working out in the shop. Put one in the garage/shop & one in the kitchen.









Used a long spring from Dave's @mmcmdl hardware care package.


----------



## darkzero

alloy said:


> Well i know there is several replies I could make in response to that statement,  but I'll refrain and just say this.
> 
> TMI





Dhal22 said:


> Don't even leave yourself open like that.............  Pardon the double entendre...



Man, the stuff you guys think of! 

I wanted to say "so my a s s can be happy" but I think we still have censors, as in so my butt can be comfortable. Wait that don't sound right either. Uh, so my butt doesn't hurt while sitting. Ah dammit n/m, I give up!


----------



## alloy

Found out more about the lathe today.  Cam with this neat little chip cart, collet closer is 3J ad not 16c. and found the feet for it.  They were in the coolant try.  I was wondering why the damn thing was so heavy.   Just couldn't see through the screen covering it. 

So back on the floor and jack the lathe up and swap the pads for the ones I already made.  

If I can get the bar feeder moved so I can hook the cable up from it I may be able to power it up today.


----------



## ACHiPo

darkzero said:


> Damn mosquitos have been biting me like crazy the past 2 weeks. Saw on the news a couple of days ago that LA county got their first 2 cases of West Nile virus from mosquitos this season. And both cases were from the San Fernando Valley which is where I'm at.
> 
> Bought these this morning. It's zappin time! Not sure if these actually work but it's worth a try. I've been using spray repellent while working out in the shop. Put one in the garage/shop & one in the kitchen.
> 
> View attachment 332191
> View attachment 332192
> 
> View attachment 332183
> View attachment 332184
> View attachment 332193
> 
> 
> Used a long spring from Dave's @mmcmdl hardware care package.
> View attachment 332185


Will,
Not sure if those work for skeeters.  WIll be interested in your experience.  One thing I know works is DEET.  Nasty, stinky, and the concentrated stuff you get at REI will melt plastic, so be careful, but it will definitely keep the mosquitos away.  I used it in W. Africa where the mosquitos are thick and carry nasty stuff.  I think I got 3 bites in 5 weeks.  Permethrin also works well and is much less nasty, but it needs to be in clothing and cover your skin--so wrists, neck, face, etc. are still exposed.
Evan


----------



## hman

Dhal22 said:


> Swishes, bagges, have to use the accent for it to be real.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, swishes or switches?


Originally from "Treasure of the Sierra Madre" ...
Enjoy!













						Stinking badges - Wikipedia
					






					en.wikipedia.org


----------



## darkzero

ACHiPo said:


> Will,
> Not sure if those work for skeeters.  WIll be interested in your experience.  One thing I know works is DEET.  Nasty, stinky, and the concentrated stuff you get at REI will melt plastic, so be careful, but it will definitely keep the mosquitos away.  I used it in W. Africa where the mosquitos are thick and carry nasty stuff.  I think I got 3 bites in 5 weeks.  Permethrin also works well and is much less nasty, but it needs to be in clothing and cover your skin--so wrists, neck, face, etc. are still exposed.
> Evan



Thanks Evan. The spray I've been using says 40% DEET on it. I think I got it at HD. It does work pretty well while I'm out in the shop. But like you said, stinks (doesn't bother me much with the fan & AC on) but feels nasty with the 100°+ days lately. Problem is I don't want to spray it on me after I'm done for the day & take a shower. I've been getting bit while in the house at night.

Them bastards are coming in from the garage. We use the garage to enter/exit the house. The neighbor has a fountain in their porch now & our side door is close to it. I'm pretty sure them buggers are coming from that.  I'll so tempted to sneak over there & dump a bottle of bleach in there! That's why I put a zapper in the garage where I did. I'm definitely gonna keep an eye on the zapper to see if it gets anything.


----------



## alloy

Well it's up and kind of running.  I can ran a small program that was in the control, but I've got sort of a clunking from Z axis. 






I shut the machine off and can easily move the z ball screw.  Plenty of lube everywhere and I can actually feel the clunk when I stop turning it with my hand.  As easy as the ball screw turns I'm thinking maybe a thrust bearing.  Looks like I might be able to get the ball screw out without removing the turret.

On the plus side I found one of these buried in the bottom of the tool box. It's $700 new so that is a bonus. Haven't tried it out yet,  Still trying to figure out the clunking problem.





__





						USBCNC
					

Universal USB to CNC controller for any CNC with a serial port. Portable version that transfers files into and from a CNC. Capable of drip feed or DNC



					www.calmotion.com


----------



## burtonbr

I tried for a long time to get along without one, but with a $60 coupon it’s hard to beat for $200 +tax. Had to wait for a wile for it to be in stock but finally have one, and already put it to good use.


----------



## BGHansen

Few eBay pick-ups over the last month or two.  First, some 3/8" Melin drill mills with 90 deg. tips.  Plan to use these as chamfering bits on the CNC mills.





I did a stupid thing on my Tormach a few weeks ago.  Was running the Superfly across a piece of steel and jogged down to close to the surface to check Z for the first pass.  Then used the shuttle to rapid to the RH side so when it passed over the stock from right to left it'd throw the chips away from me.  Well, the RH side was a little taller than the left.  Dug in the insert and snapped it. . .   eBay seller Zimi-hk to the rescue, bought 10 each inserts for aluminum and steel.  As an aside, does it really make a difference on steel vs. aluminum inserts?  My Superfly has an aluminum-cutting insert on it but I use it on steel and get a mirror finish.





I'm pretty good on tooling but always look for deals for more.  I saw this lot of 3/8" and smaller Garr supposedly new carbide end mills for $20 buy it now and took a shot.  Three or four have some signs of use, but the others are very sharp, so maybe lightly used.





Thanks for looking, Bruce


----------



## NCjeeper

I order a lot of inserts from the same seller.


----------



## Ianagos

I ordered some stuff from him on eBay and have been very satisfied in the past. But On my recent order I got some very low quality stuff. Only the common stuff is any good. dont try getting say dnmg or vnmg inserts. They are pretty low quality for a lot more money. Also figured I could get some backup holders and once again the vnmg and dnmg holders with more complex geometry were not really useable.


----------



## finsruskw

My grab bag box of tooling showed up last weekend and I have finally gotten around to seeing just what all is included. Over 70 pcs. total, 11 of which are NOS Cleveland end mills that would list for over $500 according to MSC, various sizes w/2 pr duplicates. 
A few boring bars and 5 MONSTER end Mills I don't even think I can chuck up in my mill.
A few pcs of 1/2 HSS blanks and a couple 3/8", spot drills and a few I do not know what are for w/small shanks.





	

		
			
		

		
	
5


----------



## ACHiPo

finsruskw said:


> My grab bag box of tooling showed up last weekend and I have finally gotten around to seeing just what all is included. Over 70 pcs. total, 11 of which are NOS Cleveland end mills that would list for over $500 according to MSC, various sizes w/2 pr duplicates.
> A few boring bars and 5 MONSTER end Mills I don't even think I can chuck up in my mill.
> A few pcs of 1/2 HSS blanks and a couple 3/8", spot drills and a few I do not know what are for w/small shanks.
> View attachment 332288
> View attachment 332289
> View attachment 332290
> View attachment 332291
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5


Thinking you deserve a big


----------



## ACHiPo

darkzero said:


> Thanks Evan. The spray I've been using says 40% DEET on it. I think I got it at HD. It does work pretty well while I'm out in the shop. But like you said, stinks (doesn't bother me much with the fan & AC on) but feels nasty with the 100°+ days lately. Problem is I don't want to spray it on me after I'm done for the day & take a shower. I've been getting bit while in the house at night.
> 
> Them bastards are coming in from the garage. We use the garage to enter/exit the house. The neighbor has a fountain in their porch now & our side door is close to it. I'm pretty sure them buggers are coming from that.  I'll so tempted to sneak over there & dump a bottle of bleach in there! That's why I put a zapper in the garage where I did. I'm definitely gonna keep an eye on the zapper to see if it gets anything.


Will,
Sounds like a multi-prong approach is in order.  First get your neighbor to get mosquito dunks in any standing water.  They are non-toxic and disrupt the breeding cycle.




__





						Amazon.com : mosquito dunks
					





					www.amazon.com
				




Spray your yard, driveway, and as much of your garage as you can with permethrin.  It is low toxicity, and really effective against pests including mosquitos.





						Gordon's Permethrin 10 Livestock and Premise Spray, 32 oz. at Tractor Supply Co.
					

Find Gordon's Permethrin 10 Livestock and Premise Spray, 32 oz. in the Barn & Premise Fly Control category at Tractor Supply Co.This Gordon's Pe




					www.tractorsupply.com
				




Here's an article on using it for ticks, but it is equally effective on skeeters.  I wouldn't spray it inside, but maybe a barrier spray on door mats outside and inside the house entry.




__





						How to Get Rid of Ticks in the Yard Using Permethrin
					

How to Get Rid of Ticks in the Yard Using Permethrin. Permethrin is an insecticide similar to the natural insecticide, pyrethrum, which is found in chrysanthemums. Permethrin kills a broad range of pests, such as fleas, mosquitoes and ticks. When you spray permethrin around the perimeter of your...




					homeguides.sfgate.com
				





			https://www.fdacs.gov/content/download/3188/file/Permethrin%2520QA%25203-20-13.pdf
		


Finally, here's a CDC article that might help.








						Zika Virus – Controlling Mosquitoes at Home
					

Protect your family and community from Zika by following these steps to control mosquitoes inside at outside of your home.




					www.cdc.gov


----------



## darkzero

ACHiPo said:


> Will,
> Sounds like a multi-prong approach is in order.  First get your neighbor to get mosquito dunks in any standing water.  They are non-toxic and disrupt the breeding cycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com : mosquito dunks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spray your yard, driveway, and as much of your garage as you can with permethrin.  It is low toxicity, and really effective against pests including mosquitos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gordon's Permethrin 10 Livestock and Premise Spray, 32 oz. at Tractor Supply Co.
> 
> 
> Find Gordon's Permethrin 10 Livestock and Premise Spray, 32 oz. in the Barn & Premise Fly Control category at Tractor Supply Co.This Gordon's Pe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.tractorsupply.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's an article on using it for ticks, but it is equally effective on skeeters.  I wouldn't spray it inside, but maybe a barrier spray on door mats outside and inside the house entry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to Get Rid of Ticks in the Yard Using Permethrin
> 
> 
> How to Get Rid of Ticks in the Yard Using Permethrin. Permethrin is an insecticide similar to the natural insecticide, pyrethrum, which is found in chrysanthemums. Permethrin kills a broad range of pests, such as fleas, mosquitoes and ticks. When you spray permethrin around the perimeter of your...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> homeguides.sfgate.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.fdacs.gov/content/download/3188/file/Permethrin%2520QA%25203-20-13.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, here's a CDC article that might help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Zika Virus – Controlling Mosquitoes at Home
> 
> 
> Protect your family and community from Zika by following these steps to control mosquitoes inside at outside of your home.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.cdc.gov



Thanks but I'm good for now. My buddy & I were actually taking about the dunks last week. I think they actually poured something in the fountain, I smelled chlorine or bleach this morning when I left the house. I wouldn't say it's a huge problem where I need to spray or want to spend more money on. Never had a real problem before & they've had the fountain for a few yrs now. This yr is the first time we got any in the house.

Had the zapper on yesterday in the garage while I was working in there. It zapped maybe like 4 or 5 while I was in there. I've got it set on a timer now. Didn't notice any in the house yesterday & no new bites. I'll see how it goes. No idea if the one in the kitchen has zapped any.


----------



## Cr23484

Picked up a Granite plate , and a 8” rotary table and tailstock , for my Grizzly mill. 
paid $100.00 for all three. 
Getting crowded in the basement


----------



## Aukai

What ESP channel are we on, I'm not receiving the pictures


----------



## DavidR8

finsruskw said:


> My grab bag box of tooling showed up last weekend and I have finally gotten around to seeing just what all is included. Over 70 pcs. total, 11 of which are NOS Cleveland end mills that would list for over $500 according to MSC, various sizes w/2 pr duplicates.
> A few boring bars and 5 MONSTER end Mills I don't even think I can chuck up in my mill.
> A few pcs of 1/2 HSS blanks and a couple 3/8", spot drills and a few I do not know what are for w/small shanks.
> View attachment 332288
> View attachment 332289
> View attachment 332290
> View attachment 332291
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5


Where the heck do you find deals on stuff like that?


----------



## alloy

Aukai said:


> What ESP channel are we on, I'm not receiving the pictures



I'm not seeing anything either. 

Maybe they blocked out the reception on the west coast


----------



## Ianagos

Nope not seeing them on this coast either.


----------



## extropic

Some people post numerous mega bit photos, too large to fit on a 15" display without pan/scroll.
Others haven't learned that if there are no photos, it didn't happen.
Ahh . . . variety.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

turned these roadside finds:



into 3 Jacobs 33JT chucks, a 5/8" Snaptap internal threading bar (all from STMSurplus) and a set of import imperial (1/16-5/8") ER25 collets



no picture of the ER collets, but you all know what they look like  They're not particularly exceptional (about 0.0005" run out) but they'll do for my mill collet chuck.

Anyway, I think the "trade" worked out pretty well!


----------



## extropic

@matthemuppet2, My goodness! I've never found a phone on the side of the road (I did lose one) and I had no idea those could be sold.

Do you repair them first or sell as pictured?


----------



## pontiac428

extropic said:


> Do you repair them first or sell as pictured?








First, you gotta collect the phones.  This can be done by simple methods, such as getting busted for drunk in public and being assigned community service.  Then you gotta get onto a good crew, because the crew boss might already have a hookup for selling smashed phones.  Then you need to find somebody who wants smashed phones, hopefully one who has Jacobs chucks in trade.  I prefer V-blocks and 1-2-3 blocks, buy your guy might have chuck jaws or even a Mr. Mister to trade...


----------



## extropic

pontiac428 said:


> First, you gotta collect the phones.  This can be done by simple methods, such as getting busted for drunk in public and being assigned community service.  Then you gotta get onto a good crew, because the crew boss might already have a hookup for selling smashed phones.  Then you need to find somebody who wants smashed phones, hopefully one who has Jacobs chucks in trade.  I prefer V-blocks and 1-2-3 blocks, buy your guy might have chuck jaws or even a Mr. Mister to trade...



Once upon a time I joined the "Adopt-A-Highway" team from my employer. We had about a mile of Hwy 101 in Goleta, CA.
That was well before smart phones. It was an especially fruitless and unsatisfying exercise. YMMV.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

well chaps you would be amazed at some of the stuff I find at the side of the road. Before covid I used to ride my push bike 250 miles a week. Some days I would find nothing other days would be a bounty. Anything from an endless supply of 10 and 12mm sockets to stuff that I wouldn't touch with a 6ft pole (it was black, rubbery and very lifelike). Best find ever was a smashed iPhone 10, sold that on eBay for $300! Bought me a new set of wheels for the bike  If they turn on I always return them - one guy was super grumpy but gave me $10 to buy the kids some icecream which was nice.

This lot sold for $106 + postage on eBay. I guess people buy them for the spares or to repair them.  There was even another one that I didn't pick up (was too dangerous to stop at the time) but that was gone by the next day. The 3 Jacobs chucks (I need a new one for my DP) and threading bar were $65 inc. postage and the collets were around $35 so I more or less broke even!


----------



## Aukai

My care package came today from Dave, hope all is well there....


----------



## mmcmdl

I hope everything got there safely Mike . Just been crazy here for the last few days . Supposed to work 12 hr nights for vacation relief , wifes up the hospital , neighbors cutting down huge trees on the property line . Just another week .


----------



## Aukai

Everything got here fine, hope the vertigo gets resolved.....


----------



## mmcmdl

Yep yep , I believe she will come home tomorrow .  I'll be in work late tonight , I'll catch up with you .


----------



## Janderso

alloy said:


> I found the closer on the Dunham web site and nothing about the grooves.   It would be nice to know what they are for to add to my versatility of the lathe.
> 
> I'd love to find some kind of collet setup that would go to 2" diameter (the through capacity of the spindle) that wouldn't cost me an arm and a leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DTC-5C-4T-A6
> 
> 
> 5C Collet Chuck Kit:  Includes 4 degree Taper Collet Adapter & Spindle Adapter for A2-6
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.dunhamtool.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 331773


Dang,
That's the real deal. Nothing rookie about this chuck.
Very nice


----------



## Janderso

DavidR8 said:


> Just scooped up this cart. Welding cart here I come!
> View attachment 331793


David,
I am thinking about converting this cart for my welding/plasma. Why? It has a smaller foot print for my small shop.
Well, maybe not. It's free. 
The jury is still out. It would need quite a bit of retro.


----------



## DavidR8

Janderso said:


> David,
> I am thinking about converting this cart for my welding/plasma. Why? It has a smaller foot print for my small shop.
> Well, maybe not. It's free.
> The jury is still out. It would need quite a bit of retro.


It has interesting potential. Round tubing is a bit of a downer for me as my lack coping skills


----------



## Janderso

ACHiPo said:


> I got this today.  Ordered off Amazon $40 for a bolt-on, $70 for a mag base (I got the bolt-on).  It claims to be 800 lumens, and that seems reasonable based on the brightness.
> 
> View attachment 331472
> 
> 
> Also got a 5T/10T toe jack yesterday.
> View attachment 331473


We have that one in the shop. I bought the 2,500/5,000 for my shop.
They come in handy!!


----------



## DLF

Just picked up an Evolution cold saw. It’s the newer S355CPS model + I got a free spare blade.

Unfortunately the free blade it’s the same as the one that came with the saw (blue). An aluminum blade would have been sweet, but one can not really complain about a bonus item.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

I'm interested in what you think of the saw. I've considered one but shied away because of noise concerns. I have tinnitus and despite wearing hearing protection I find loud tools to be really tiring.


----------



## slagueux

Yesterday, I picked this Model 30 up. Dates to 1971 if the 50 year anniversary sticker is to be believed.


----------



## DLF

DavidR8 said:


> I'm interested in what you think of the saw. I've considered one but shied away because of noise concerns. I have tinnitus and despite wearing hearing protection I find loud tools to be really tiring.



The saw is fantastic. Excellent build quality, solid and cuts mild steel very easy. Like advertised, very few sparks, cold parts after cutting and a lot of blue chips. But it is quite loud.

I was oscillating between a cold saw and a band saw. I chose the first because of shop floor space. A bandsaw of comparable capability would permanently occupy a lot of floor space while the cold saw can be tucked away under the bench when not in use.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WobblyHand

Picked up some odds and ends the last few days.  In no particular order: 

Mitutoyo micrometer stand so I don't have to juggle when I measure things
Niagara 4" diameter x 1/16" thick slitting saw
1/4" diameter Niagara carbide end mill
10 CPMW 32.51 inserts for my Sherline fly cutter
4 better quality taps ( 6-32, 8-32, 1/4'-20 thru hole, and a 5/16"-18 blind hole).  The thru hole taps push out the chips through the bottom.  The blind hole tap expels the chips out through the top of the hole.
5/16"-18 screws, and some 5/16" wavy washers
1 foot of 1.5" diameter 1144.  I am going to make an arbor for the saw out of 6" of the 1144.  Found an excellent drawing on HM for an arbor.
Not in the picture is a set of Yuasa small bore gauges that I forgot about until just now.


----------



## Winegrower

You guys that make money off smashed cell phones are amazing, and I am very excited too, since I have a drawer full of old phones.   Now all I have to do is smash them, and go shopping!


----------



## Buffalo21

I bought around 120 metric HSS end mills, in 2 and 4 flute styles, in 6, 8 and 10 mm size. The candy company is going out of business, and I bought up the end mills, drill bits and misc tooling, before the company  gets rid of it in other ways.


----------



## gr8legs

Recent acquisitions in no particular order:

Set of Walton tap extractors - someone here mentioned them and they looked like a good thing to have around to ward off the demons of tap breakage:



And a neat-o engine ignition analyzer. It does most of what an engine oscilloscope like our long departed Marquette Dyna-Vision but you hold it in your hand; I figured I wanted one of these when I started looking at OBD 2 scanners and realized that the rigs I usually work on long predate OBD ports and seeing spark characteristics would be a big plus for troubleshooting. Cool little gadget!:


And to finish off a shop project of building some extension arms for the rolling jack on my 4-post hoist it turns out that 1 1/2" x 3" CRS bar stock is just a smidge too big to fit into the available space (but more about that in a separate post when I finish the arms) so rounding the corners a bit should provide clearance; hence my purchase of some used corner rounding end mills. Now to figure out how to describe them to the CNC so it puts the chamfer in the right place!:


----------



## Buffalo21

today, I went to the LWS to pick up a Metabo 18V cordless grinder, while I was there, I also ended up with a Milwaukee inspection camera and (2) 12v impact drivers, for an additional $75.

The Metabo cordless grinder is a replacement for a seriously dead unit, after about 5 yrs of severe abuse, the 40+ ft drop yesterday did not do it any good. It ran for about 5-6 minutes after the drop, I thought I was in the clear, then during the last 1/2” mounting stud trim job, there were actual flames shooting out of the air vents. It was laid to rest with all of the honors due and then today life goes on.


----------



## gr8legs

Several years ago whilst at my semi-local tool supplier (Winks Hardware in Portland - a wonderful old-fashioned hardware store) I saw in their showcase a dial caliper that had divisions in 1/64" fractions. Instant sale. Fractional inches! For instance: instantly figure out what dril size I have from a grab bag assortment! instead of converting mils to fractions in my brain box or consulting a wall chart!! (No, I have not memorized all 64ths of an inch values!) Lots of other potential uses. What could be cooler?






But after the initial thrill wore off I had the same problem in that the dial caliper, although it did have 1/64" divisions only labeled every 1/16" and I still had to figure out where I was if between major divisions.

So, recently perusing the world-wide web mall (eBay) a listing for digital caliper: Inch / Metric / Fractional showed up. Probably been around for ages but I just noticed them - ` and I quickly hit the 'Buy It Now' button.

Item just arrived, a Fowler Instruments plastic digital caliper with Inch / Metric / Fractions. Direct readout down to 64ths! Way cool. 






Of course I never get just one of something so I also ordered from another seller a stainless version of a Fowler digital caliper that does the same thing. The plastic one seems very well made and I'm sure the metal version will last forever. I have had a Fowler caliper for 20+ years and other than occasionally replacing the battery it has been absolutely bulletproof.

And also, a note about Fowler customer support: When I was reading the eBay listings there was a bit of ambiguity in the resolution specifications. A phone call to Fowler's toll free customer support line got exactly the answer I needed to proceed from someone who had English as a first language. Although obviously the caliper came from Asia their customer support is USA and first rate.

Naturally, YMMV and all that but I'm a happy camper!

Stu


----------



## BGHansen

One of my ongoing shop projects is reproducing parts for Erector sets.  The company made a number of parts in 0.020" steel and brass plated them.  I picked up a 1-gallon brass plating set up from Caswell Plating (around $200).  Will give some updates once I mix the electrolytes and plate something.  I've had a Caswell 2-gallon nickel plating set up for around 20 years, figure this brass one will use the same power supply, grounding bar, tank hangers, variable resistor (for current control), etc.

Bruce


Everything neatly packed in a the plating tank



Kit includes a couple of brass anodes, cheesecloth for covering the anodes, electrolyte, plating tank and a manual.


----------



## Superburban

Snagged an electric oven for $30 at a yard sale. No id tag, or controller, so I will need to fab up something, and measure the coils, to see if I can figure them out. 4"x5"x10" interior.


----------



## extropic

Superburban said:


> Snagged an electric oven for $30 at a yard sale.  snip>



*WOW!  *


----------



## DavidR8

Saw an ad for a commercial rolling pin. 
$8






This is what it looks like disassembled. 
3.5” OD x 15” aluminum tube. 
Two cast aluminum handles. 
Two cast end caps
Two sealed bearings
One 10mm x 17” rod. 
I’m thinking one handle for a vise speed handle.







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## Aukai

8 bucks well spent. What's the wall thickness?


----------



## DavidR8

Aukai said:


> 8 bucks well spent. What's the wall thickness?



It’s 3/32” wall. 
Would make a heck of a custom exhaust silencer can for a moto 


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## ACHiPo

gr8legs said:


> Several years ago whilst at my semi-local tool supplier (Winks Hardware in Portland - a wonderful old-fashioned hardware store) I saw in their showcase a dial caliper that had divisions in 1/64" fractions. Instant sale. Fractional inches! For instance: instantly figure out what dril size I have from a grab bag assortment! instead of converting mils to fractions in my brain box or consulting a wall chart!! (No, I have not memorized all 64ths of an inch values!) Lots of other potential uses. What could be cooler?
> 
> View attachment 333027
> 
> View attachment 333028
> 
> 
> But after the initial thrill wore off I had the same problem in that the dial caliper, although it did have 1/64" divisions only labeled every 1/16" and I still had to figure out where I was if between major divisions.
> 
> So, recently perusing the world-wide web mall (eBay) a listing for digital caliper: Inch / Metric / Fractional showed up. Probably been around for ages but I just noticed them - ` and I quickly hit the 'Buy It Now' button.
> 
> Item just arrived, a Fowler Instruments plastic digital caliper with Inch / Metric / Fractions. Direct readout down to 64ths! Way cool.
> View attachment 333029
> 
> 
> View attachment 333030
> 
> 
> Of course I never get just one of something so I also ordered from another seller a stainless version of a Fowler digital caliper that does the same thing. The plastic one seems very well made and I'm sure the metal version will last forever. I have had a Fowler caliper for 20+ years and other than occasionally replacing the battery it has been absolutely bulletproof.
> 
> And also, a note about Fowler customer support: When I was reading the eBay listings there was a bit of ambiguity in the resolution specifications. A phone call to Fowler's toll free customer support line got exactly the answer I needed to proceed from someone who had English as a first language. Although obviously the caliper came from Asia their customer support is USA and first rate.
> 
> Naturally, YMMV and all that but I'm a happy camper!
> 
> Stu


Stu,
I just had a flashback...

About 1987 I was 23 years old working for Tektronix as an R&D engineer.  We had a bad vibration problem with a plasma etcher--the mechanical vacuum pump and roots blower was vibrating the vacuum chamber and causing metrology issues.  We diagnosed the problem to a bellows that collapsed too much to be an effective vibration isolator.  We needed springs of the right size and stiffness to hold the bellows apart and let them do their vibration isolation magic.  There was no WWW back then, and figuring out the right solution from catalogs was not very promising.  It was then that I learned from our tech about Winks.

We drove Wink's old location (in Old Town as I recall, or maybe just in NW but before they moved to their new location?), went down in the basement with a salesman.   There were rows and rows of bins of more hardware than I'd ever seen in my life. The lasting memory was reaching for a spring in a bin and being snapped at that I was, under no circumstances, to touch anything.  I'm sure because they learned the hard way that hardware is easily misplaced back into the wrong bin.

Anyway, a formative experience.

But I digress...

Back to buying cool stuff!

Evan


----------



## gr8legs

ACHiPo said:


> We drove Wink's old location (in Old Town as I recall, or maybe just in NW but before they moved to their new location?),



Yeah, I started going to Winks when I worked for Tek also but only rarely job related to my position as a marketing staff engineer. They moved to a location in the near-in southeast part of PDX on Stark Street and a much smaller facility so a lot of the amazing inventory had to be downsized. Sad but they are still the premiere hardware store in Portland and apparently still going strong even with the Interwebs competition. I hope.

Nice to see another Tekkie here!

Stu


----------



## DavidR8

Scored this grinder stand for $30. Brand new, never used. 
And $15 for like-new 4” drill press vise that I’m going to turn into a ring roller.








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## pontiac428

DavidR8 said:


> Scored this grinder stand for $30.



I've had the same stand supporting my disc sander for a looong time.  I kept thinking that I would weld the thing together, but to my shock and surprise, it's never gone wobbly on me after all that time.  Good score!


----------



## DavidR8

pontiac428 said:


> I've had the same stand supporting my disc sander for a looong time. I kept thinking that I would weld the thing together, but to my shock and surprise, it's never gone wobbly on me after all that time. Good score!



I’ve been wondering how to deal with my belt sander because I’d like to roll it to the overhead door when grinding. A trio of locking casters should do the trick. 

Edit: even just carrying the thing the ten feet would be fine 
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## mickri

These are the casters that I have been buying lately.  They were $3.75 per castor.  Just raised the price to $5.  Still a good deal.








						4" Casters w/ 1/2" x 1-1/2" Stem & Polypropylene Wheel  | eBay
					

Each caster is 4-11/16" tall, has a 120 lb load capacity and a 3-5/16" swivel radius.



					www.ebay.com


----------



## pontiac428

DavidR8 said:


> I’ve been wondering how to deal with my belt sander because I’d like to roll it to the overhead door when grinding. A trio of locking casters should do the trick.
> 
> Edit: even just carrying the thing the ten feet would be fine
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Oh, no- don't use casters.  That's not just a no, it's a hell no.  If a locked caster swivels around on you (like they always do) you might just feed your hands to the rotating belt.  No, you want a steady, solid pedestal for your belt sander.  Pull it into position by grabbing the heavy part and dragging it on two of its legs.  Set it up so one leg points straight towards the operator, then put your foot on that leg while running your sander to keep it from walking away.  Casters have their place, but this application ain't one of them!


----------



## Papa Charlie

I have a tendency to agree with not using the locking casters, but that being said, I have used them. Generally, two swivel and two stationary all with locks. But a retractable pedal foot is much better.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by the tool/ flea market there was some machinist tools but they all are in very bad condition. First thing i found was guards for a bench grinder 2$ bought them. Couple of day ago i did broke my 27mm socket, so i bought me a new one 5$ last thing i bought was a solar light bulb 4$, i carry them in every car the onboad solar panels seam to keep them charged when i need them.


----------



## darkzero

pontiac428 said:


> Oh, no- don't use casters.  That's not just a no, it's a hell no.  If a locked caster swivels around on you (like they always do) you might just feed your hands to the rotating belt.  No, you want a steady, solid pedestal for your belt sander.  Pull it into position by grabbing the heavy part and dragging it on two of its legs.  Set it up so one leg points straight towards the operator, then put your foot on that leg while running your sander to keep it from walking away.  Casters have their place, but this application ain't one of them!





DavidR8 said:


> I’ve been wondering how to deal with my belt sander because I’d like to roll it to the overhead door when grinding. A trio of locking casters should do the trick.
> 
> Edit: even just carrying the thing the ten feet would be fine
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Uh oh Pontiac, that's exactly what I am doing to my belt sander but a bit different than just using casters alone. I'm mounting my belt sander on a bench grinder stand but I'm using a HF mobile base. I snagged 3 more of them before they excluded the CM brand from their 20-25% coupons.

The HF mobile base is to be used with wood for the frame but I use square steel tubing. Has adjustable feet to raise it off the 2 casters in the front. First one I used was for my 3 ton arbor press. It's heavier than my belt sander & I roll the arbor press out of the garage everytime I need to work on my truck, has been holding up fine over the years.





My little brother told me when the Wen bench grinder stands dropped down to $20 shipped on Amazon, I bought 2 of them. I'm glad you pointed that out about using casters cause that's what my lil brother is going to do with his but not sure what he's mounting on his. We both bought ours like 2 yrs ago & still haven't used them yet lol. I went & bought the square tubing a few weeks ago & bought the alumn plates last year so hopefully I'll get around to building mine very soon.


----------



## DavidR8

Good points @pontiac428  and @Papa Charlie... I'll ditch the  caster idea and just go with dragging it to the door.


----------



## Aukai

Keep a hand truck handy.


----------



## Janderso

BGHansen said:


> Few eBay pick-ups over the last month or two.  First, some 3/8" Melin drill mills with 90 deg. tips.  Plan to use these as chamfering bits on the CNC mills.
> 
> View attachment 332260
> 
> 
> 
> I did a stupid thing on my Tormach a few weeks ago.  Was running the Superfly across a piece of steel and jogged down to close to the surface to check Z for the first pass.  Then used the shuttle to rapid to the RH side so when it passed over the stock from right to left it'd throw the chips away from me.  Well, the RH side was a little taller than the left.  Dug in the insert and snapped it. . .   eBay seller Zimi-hk to the rescue, bought 10 each inserts for aluminum and steel.  As an aside, does it really make a difference on steel vs. aluminum inserts?  My Superfly has an aluminum-cutting insert on it but I use it on steel and get a mirror finish.
> 
> View attachment 332261
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty good on tooling but always look for deals for more.  I saw this lot of 3/8" and smaller Garr supposedly new carbide end mills for $20 buy it now and took a shot.  Three or four have some signs of use, but the others are very sharp, so maybe lightly used.
> 
> View attachment 332262
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking, Bruce



Are you running out of room yet Bruce?


----------



## Janderso

BGHansen said:


> One of my ongoing shop projects is reproducing parts for Erector sets.  The company made a number of parts in 0.020" steel and brass plated them.  I picked up a 1-gallon brass plating set up from Caswell Plating (around $200).  Will give some updates once I mix the electrolytes and plate something.  I've had a Caswell 2-gallon nickel plating set up for around 20 years, figure this brass one will use the same power supply, grounding bar, tank hangers, variable resistor (for current control), etc.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> 
> Everything neatly packed in a the plating tank
> View attachment 333034
> 
> 
> Kit includes a couple of brass anodes, cheesecloth for covering the anodes, electrolyte, plating tank and a manual.
> View attachment 333035


Can't wait to see what you do with the kit.


----------



## pontiac428

The solid bases look great.  I know there are lots of fancy new casters out there that lock and don't move.  I'm really just speaking on normal swivel casters, the kind that are free to orbit when locked; the affordable kind.

I have a few tools on pedestal mounts.  My Jet belt sander, disc sander, bench grinder, "big" vise, and arbor press are all tools that I drag out onto the work floor, use, then drag back to an out-of-the-way spot where they interleave together to save space.  Some are on plow discs, some on tripedal bases, my chop saw is on a 4-leg mount but is still considered (by me) as part of the pedestal mount collection.  None of these tools weighs more than 70 lbs, probably closer to half that in most cases, so they are easy as pie to move around.

My big point is that you don't want your tools moving around on you.  You also want to be able to put some arsch into your work, and don't want your machine rocking (oscillating) back and forth like a penguin on too much gin.

A good rule for these pedestal mounted tools comes from motorcyclist logic:  never ride a bike you can't stand up yourself if you lay it down.  I translate that as never pedestal mount a machine tool you can't move into place yourself.  I'd rather anchor a heavy tool to the floor and work with a rigidly mounted machine than risk injury.  End enduring rant...?


----------



## DavidR8

pontiac428 said:


> The solid bases look great.  I know there are lots of fancy new casters out there that lock and don't move.  I'm really just speaking on normal swivel casters, the kind that are free to orbit when locked; the affordable kind.
> 
> I have a few tools on pedestal mounts.  My Jet belt sander, disc sander, bench grinder, "big" vise, and arbor press are all tools that I drag out onto the work floor, use, then drag back to an out-of-the-way spot where they interleave together to save space.  Some are on plow discs, some on tripedal bases, my chop saw is on a 4-leg mount but is still considered (by me) as part of the pedestal mount collection.  None of these tools weighs more than 70 lbs, probably closer to half that in most cases, so they are easy as pie to move around.
> 
> My big point is that you don't want your tools moving around on you.  You also want to be able to put some arsch into your work, and don't want your machine rocking (oscillating) back and forth like a penguin on too much gin.
> 
> A good rule for these pedestal mounted tools comes from motorcyclist logic:  never ride a bike you can't stand up yourself if you lay it down.  I translate that as never pedestal mount a machine tool you can't move into place yourself.  I'd rather anchor a heavy tool to the floor and work with a rigidly mounted machine than risk injury.  End enduring rant...?


I hear the motorcycle analogy! 
I'm thinking about how I'm going to mount my pedastal mount bender and wondering if a 'universal' floor mount bolt pattern may be a idea. 
Recessed anchors that will take a SHCS when not in use so the holes don't fill up with crud.
Pondering....happy to hear ideas on this...


----------



## pontiac428

DavidR8 said:


> I hear the motorcycle analogy!
> I'm thinking about how I'm going to mount my pedastal mount bender and wondering if a 'universal' floor mount bolt pattern may be a idea.
> Recessed anchors that will take a SHCS when not in use so the holes don't fill up with crud.
> Pondering....happy to hear ideas on this...


I think that is a brilliant idea.  A bender needs to have room to work, and for me that means front center of the roll-up door.  Insert nuts would allow easy removal/swapping of tools as work dictates.  Fasten with wing head bolts.  Yep, honey, all those JD2 boxes are "parts for the car"...


----------



## Janderso

DavidR8 said:


> Recessed anchors that will take a SHCS when not in use so the holes don't fill up with crud.


Outstanding idea!


----------



## slagueux

Some more recent pickups. 

Paid $20 for this Baldor. I repainted it. 








Paid 60 for this old Foley







Found this Craftsman horizontal bandsaw on Facebook. Paid 60 but I’ve redone the whole thing. 






Buffalo Number 15 bench top drill press. I also refurbished this from head to toe.


----------



## hman

Wowsers!  Some *major* suckage going on in your neck of the woods.  Congrats!


----------



## BGHansen

Janderso said:


> Are you running out of room yet Bruce?


Actually, yes, but have a plan.  Our pole barn is 40 x 96; actually a 40 x 56 x 10' with a cement floor and a 40 x 40 x 12' attached addition with a dirt floor.  The front 40 x 32 x 10' is my shop.  The back 24 x 40 is for storage.  We store my sister's 18' speed boat in the winter, so need to leave an alleyway through the shop to the back half.  However, they are looking at moving within two years and will be going with a pontoon instead that'll be stored at the marina.  That'll free up the back half for insulation, etc. and will make it into my wood shop.

I always have a plan 'B'. . .  The 40 x 40 x 12' is for firewood storage (8' x 40'), Case 580 back hoe, Ford F600 dump truck, Massey 35 farm tractor, quad, 6 x 10 utility trailer and our garden tractor.  I'm looking at selling the Case, Ford and Massey and replacing them with a Kubota tractor.  Then put in a stone floor and ceiling in the 40 x 40.  Should be plenty of storage space for the speed boat if their move plans fall through.

Of course, a better solution would be to stop buying stuff.  But a day without a FedEx/UPS/USPS delivery of a tool is like a day without sunshine!

Bruce


----------



## Janderso

Guys like Bruce are the envy of us all.
Many of us work in our 20X20X8 shops or smaller.
We haven't settled on this house yet. We are thinking after I retire we find a place with a shop and more property.
California property is expensive and we live up in the North Valley in a farming community. As you get closer to the urban centers and coastal regions the prices go into seven digits.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Janderso said:


> Guys like Bruce are the envy of us all.
> Many of us work in our 20X20X8 shops or smaller.
> We haven't settled on this house yet. We are thinking after I retire we find a place with a shop and more property.
> California property is expensive and we live up in the North Valley in a farming community. As you get closer to the urban centers and coastal regions the prices go into seven digits.



Have the same dream, only right now I don't even have a shop. All my tools are sitting in storage. We have been living on a boat for the last 10 years here in the PNW after every thing went to heck in California after 2008. But here in Washington, property is just as bad price wise as California.


----------



## hman

BGHansen said:


> Of course, a better solution would be to stop buying stuff.


Yeah, riiiiight 


BGHansen said:


> But a day without a FedEx/UPS/USPS delivery of a tool is like a day without sunshine!


That's more like it!


----------



## Papa Charlie

BGHansen said:


> Of course, a better solution would be to stop buying stuff.  But a day without a FedEx/UPS/USPS delivery of a tool is like a day without sunshine!
> Bruce



I have been waiting for Fedex to deliver my DRO for my lathe for over a week. I has been sitting not more than 70 miles in their facility. They just keep moving the date out. 
I am at the point with Fedex, that if I know that someone is going to ship by them, I will just pass on the item. 
Patrick


----------



## Aukai

We got some packing to do Lucy.....




Now where to put them?


----------



## Papa Charlie

Came across a  really nice  power hacksaw in CL today. Text the seller, add had been there for 5 month. Still available,  about 70 miles away  so asked if  he was negotiable, came back with smart azz remark " what do you want it for free", got worse after that. Told him thanks but no thanks and good luck.  Then  kept  texting,  I told him I don't  need his attitude and don't contact  me  again.  
No wonder  he's had it for  sale for 5 months.


----------



## Janderso

Papa Charlie said:


> Have the same dream, only right now I don't even have a shop. All my tools are sitting in storage. We have been living on a boat for the last 10 years here in the PNW after every thing went to heck in California after 2008. But here in Washington, property is just as bad price wise as California.


We have friends that live in Port Orchard. Lovely area. When they sold their home in Novato and moved to WA, they had their pick of beautiful homes in nice neighborhoods for a fraction of the cost. This was in the late 90's.
Yeah, the PNW is pricey and Seattle and the surrounding area has lots of traffic. Of course, so does the bay area.!!


----------



## matthewsx

Nice property all has that one thing in common....

Every time someone tells me how expensive it is to live where I do (whether in Michigan or California) I only have one thing to say, "totally worth it"

John


----------



## DavidR8

BGHansen said:


> Of course, a better solution would be to stop buying stuff.
> 
> Bruce


Bahahaha! 
I so needed that laugh! 


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## BGHansen

Papa Charlie said:


> I have been waiting for Fedex to deliver my DRO for my lathe for over a week. I has been sitting not more than 70 miles in their facility. They just keep moving the date out.
> I am at the point with Fedex, that if I know that someone is going to ship by them, I will just pass on the item.
> Patrick


Ah, the old Heinz commercial comes to mind.  Anticipation, it's making me wait . . .


----------



## BGHansen

Janderso said:


> Guys like Bruce are the envy of us all.
> Many of us work in our 20X20X8 shops or smaller.
> We haven't settled on this house yet. We are thinking after I retire we find a place with a shop and more property.
> California property is expensive and we live up in the North Valley in a farming community. As you get closer to the urban centers and coastal regions the prices go into seven digits.


Ah yes, remember the days of a shop in my basement.  Had about 20' x 20' with a little under 8' ceiling.  How do I know?  Couldn't stand a sheet of plywood up in the shop.  I had to move my table saw away from a work bench and start the cut.  Get about half-way and reach up with my foot to shut off the saw.  Then pull the saw back closer to the work bench, fire up the saw and complete the cut.  So much nicer to have a 10' ceiling and plenty of space to work the wood side of the hobby without fiddling with moving stuff around.

Bruce


----------



## Janderso

BGHansen said:


> Had about 20' x 20' with a little under 8' ceiling


Many members of this forum work i9n spaces smaller than that.
Have you seen Dudley Toolwright's channel? He is a good machinist with some excellent machine tools but his shop is very small.


----------



## Papa Charlie

BGHansen said:


> Ah, the old Heinz commercial comes to mind.  Anticipation, it's making me wait . . .



LOL, I had forgotten about those commercials. So true. I check the status like 4 times a day and it had not been moving for the last week. Now it has been turned over to USPS and supposedly somewhere between the handoff and my post office.


----------



## Z2V

Papa Charlie said:


> I have been waiting for Fedex to deliver my DRO for my lathe for over a week. I has been sitting not more than 70 miles in their facility. They just keep moving the date out.
> I am at the point with Fedex, that if I know that someone is going to ship by them, I will just pass on the item.
> Patrick



FedUp, I feel the same as you about them. My local driver is too lazy to even get my packages on my porch, he leaves them on the steps. I sometimes wonder how they stay in business.


----------



## pontiac428

Z2V said:


> FedUp, I feel the same as you about them. My local driver is too lazy to even get my packages on my porch, he leaves them on the steps. I sometimes wonder how they stay in business.



Ha, my FedEx driver just tosses the packages over my gate onto the front walk.  One of these days I'll catch him and rub his nose in it like a bad dog.


----------



## NCjeeper

Janderso said:


> Have you seen Dudley Toolwright's channel? He is a good machinist with some excellent machine tools but his shop is very small.


Yeah looks like he is working out of a 2 car garage. It is packed to the gills with equipment and stuff. I asked him if he had any plans to expand. He said his house is on a postage stamp sized lot and there is no room for an out building.


----------



## DavidR8

NCjeeper said:


> Yeah looks like he is working out of a 2 car garage. It is packed to the gills with equipment and stuff. I asked him if he had any plans to expand. He said his house is on a postage stamp sized lot and there is no room for an out building.


I feel completely ridiculous now saying I have no space in my shop...


----------



## tmenyc

Well, I'm in an 11x11 apartment bedroom in Greenwich Village with a 10x24 Logan, a bench grinder, vise on a stand, and a full workbench for my vintage pen restoration business...and my day job pandemic office...and my bicycle... but it works!  Sadly, I can't fit a proper drill press, and the Bridgeport will probably await my next life.

Tim


----------



## Nogoingback

DavidR8 said:


> I hear the motorcycle analogy!
> I'm thinking about how I'm going to mount my pedastal mount bender and wondering if a 'universal' floor mount bolt pattern may be a idea.
> Recessed anchors that will take a SHCS when not in use so the holes don't fill up with crud.
> Pondering....happy to hear ideas on this...




Another option for stands are brake drums from heavy trucks. They weigh a lot  (this one weighs 125 lbs.),
and you don't have to drag them: you can tilt them a bit and roll them across the room.  If you know a
place that repairs trucks, ask if they have any.  I got two of them free for the asking.


----------



## Aukai

Mike, AKA Ulma Doctor Is able to grind HSS tools with whatever geometries are required with his shaper, and his skills for you. Carbide inserts are confusing, and I like trying HSS, so I'm going to give these a shot when I have more time.


----------



## Ianagos

Aukai said:


> Mike, AKA Ulma Doctor Is able to grind HSS tools with what ever geometries are required with his shaper, and his skills for you. Carbide inserts are confusing, and I like trying HSS, so I'm going to give these a shot when I have more time.



If you decide to take the carbide plunge let me know and I can help you out. Once you start using carbide there’s no going back. I do occasionally use a hss tool but typically just for weird geometries.


----------



## Aukai

Thank you for that offer, there are so many letters, numbers, decimal points, sizes, shapes, and nose radius, I just go


----------



## Ianagos

Aukai said:


> Thank you for that offer, there are so many letters, numbers, decimal points, sizes, shapes, and nose radius, I just go



Yea there are a lot but after a while you get it sorted.


----------



## addertooth

LMS 7350, the "fancy" version of the LMS 5100 (7 by 16) with metal hand wheels, OXA tool post, and Digital Read Out.  This picture is before a wrench or a rag was taken to it, so it has the factory oil all over it, and the handles are not yet attached to it.  This is the high torque model with 4" chuck and 100mm plate.  The motor is 500W, so around 2/3rd horse.

Upgrades were purchased at the same time, to avoid shipping costs.  All metal gear set, Steady rest 2" and a 1' set with swappable fingers (one has the bearing fingers).  Replaceable carbide tools (triangular carbide boring/left face/right face/threading/etc),, low runout tailstock chuck, 4 center drills.  The "tweaks and enhancement kit", new brass gibs, tapered bearing set, the improved compound base bottom, a 3mt center for the headstock end, 2mt live center for the tailstock, and the 11mm spacer (which has to be cut down when you upgrade the bearings.  The 11mm spacer  will be the first part worked, before the lathe is tore down and trued.

At this point, the waiting was the hardest part (it spent a week on a dock 60 miles away), but I suspect the full tear down, bearing replacement, honing and truing will prove to be a bit more arduous. As a former machinist from about 40 years ago, I have a certain expectation for trueness and accuracy.  I am sure at some point I will find the finite limits it can be trued, and say "that is all that can be done".


----------



## mmcmdl

I got a few bites on the 3996 lathe today , hopefully it may be gone soon . I can then replace it with other needed tools I've been wishing on  .


----------



## Aukai

My Royal Live center came in today, and it feels very smooth for 175.00


----------



## gr8legs

First, the mailman showed up with another of the eBay Imperial / Metric / Fractional digital calipers, this one a nice shiny General Tool Company unit. Spent about $30 on it. Fractions in 1/64 increments. I think I have enough of them now.





And Friday is SWMBO and my 'half-day garage sale outing day' during garage sale season. It's been a crappy year for yard, driveway and garage sales due to covid fears but maybe things are loosening up a bit. There's an 'all-city' sale tomorrow and a few people did early sales today that we partook of and will probably shop the rest tomorrow when everyone is up and running and before the horrible forecast heat sets in.

We happened on a sale an 'auction buddy' of mine was having and he is divesting himself of odds and ends and a few tools. I passed on the 2 HP hit and miss engine but we may go back tomorrow for the Norton 3-way oil sharpening stone setup he was selling. It's a matter of not having the counter space to put it onto and you definitely don't want to tip it on end to store it.

What I did buy from him were these two torque wrenches that he wanted $10 from me for the pair (and yes, he knows the value but was just downsizing) and I gladly paid.

This Thorsen 1/2" drive should clean up nicely





And this 1/2" drive 0-50 ft-lb dial indicator unit supposedly used in aeronautical applications. I don't know the provenance of an Apco-Mossberg wrench ~ Do you think there's any connection to the firearms manufacturer?





Only a minor tool gloat but I try to buy fairly. I hope what goes around comes around after I leave the planet.

Stu


----------



## francist

@gr8legs You can find the complete history of the company here starting out as Frank Mossberg Co and merging to Apco-Mossberg in the 1920’s. Their torque products became the mainstay of the company from the 1930’s on. According to the article, there is no confirmed connection to the Mossberg of firearms.





__





						The Frank Mossberg Company
					

An article on the Frank Mossberg Company and its tools.



					alloy-artifacts.org


----------



## gr8legs

francist said:


> According to the article, there is no confirmed connection to the Mossberg of firearms.



Thanks!


----------



## mmcmdl

Didn't buy it today , but I just used it . My 1916 planer gauge made by my uncle's father . Worked great in spacing a few rollers on one of our machines .


----------



## hman

addertooth said:


> <snip>
> The "tweaks and enhancement kit", new brass gibs, tapered bearing set, the improved compound base bottom, a 3mt center for the headstock end, 2mt live center for the tailstock, and the 11mm spacer (which has to be cut down when you upgrade the bearings.  The 11mm spacer  will be the first part worked, before the lathe is tore down and trued.


First, congratulations!  That's a nice looking lathe.  And kudos to LMS for offering such a nice package of enhancements!


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## Dhal22

Thinking about upsizing from my Unimat SL1000.........................


----------



## Papa Charlie

Dhal22 said:


> Thinking about upsizing from my Unimat SL1000.........................
> 
> 
> View attachment 333830
> 
> 
> View attachment 333831


Might need to upgrade the power panel a bit. It may be tight, but I am sure you can make it fit.


----------



## darkzero

No need to get rid of the Unimat, can still use it, just set it down on the carriage.


----------



## Dhal22

darkzero said:


> No need to get rid of the Unimat, can still use it, just set it down on the carriage.




That would be an interesting photo.


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## Papa Charlie

darkzero said:


> No need to get rid of the Unimat, can still use it, just set it down on the carriage.



That would be like a small milling attachement.


----------



## vtcnc

Model SG - Sanford Surface Grinder. FB Marketplace deal. I've been looking for one of these for years. Cute little machines, but they do what they are expected to do.

Tried it out under power. Nice little unit. I also have the original electromagnetic chuck but it needs some work.

I'll post a thread of the clean up I did today and pics and link back here.


----------



## hman

Dhal22 said:


> Thinking about upsizing from my Unimat SL1000.........................


All kidding aside ... I've sometimes wondered what-all is involved in the installation of such a tool.  Must take a huge amount of site prep, then maybe several weeks of precision leveling, grouting, etc.  Not like simply opening up the crate and washing off the cosmoline!


----------



## darkzero

Me too!


----------



## gr8legs

Today's purchase (from the same 'auction buddy' as yesterday) is an Imperial Eastman Rol-Air tubing flaring tool. 

Does 4 sizes from 3/4" up. Kinda cool roller bearing setup so flaring doesn't distort the tubing very much. I've never needed to flare anything larger than 1/2" but now I can. Bwa ha ha

Paid him what he asked: $3


----------



## Ianagos

hman said:


> All kidding aside ... I've sometimes wondered what-all is involved in the installation of such a tool. Must take a huge amount of site prep, then maybe several weeks of precision leveling, grouting, etc. Not like simply opening up the crate and washing off the cosmoline!



For just an old lathe like that I don’t think anyone is putting in foundations. Now if you see some of the big or highly accurate cnc machines as well as big gantry mills and the sort. I think foundations are being built in some cases. I have seen a few horizontal boring mills where the table was in tracks built into the concrete.


----------



## DavidR8

gr8legs said:


> Today's purchase (from the same 'auction buddy' as yesterday) is an Imperial Eastman Rol-Air tubing flaring tool.
> 
> Does 4 sizes from 3/4" up. Kinda cool roller bearing setup so flaring doesn't distort the tubing very much. I've never needed to flare anything larger than 1/2" but now I can. Bwa ha ha
> 
> Paid him what he asked: $3
> 
> View attachment 333884
> View attachment 333885



My dad used to have that same tool. 
Nice find!


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## DavidR8

Picked up a tiny anvil (5” high, 9” long) and a bunch of end mills. 











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## NCjeeper

After watching Tom Lipton's V block video I went and bought a set of B&S ones off of Ebay. I originally wanted to try my hand at making a set but I have so many other projects to do once my shop is built that I figured just go ahead and buy a set.


----------



## Janderso

I bought a set of end mandrels from McMaster.
I'm going to use these!


----------



## extropic

I buy my expanding mandrels for Breakheart Tool Co. and have been very satisfied. I wonder if yours are also made by them.  Anyway, buy direct from Breakheart for a 30+% savings relative to McMaster. Breakheart also makes other lathe accessories.


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## DavidR8

Bought a dust collector and a 6” grinder. 






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## Janderso

extropic said:


> I buy my expanding mandrels for Breakheart Tool Co. and have been very satisfied. I wonder if yours are also made by them.  Anyway, buy direct from Breakheart for a 30+% savings relative to McMaster. Breakheart also makes other lathe accessories.


I paid about $100 for this set. They did have some grit and a bit of rust. They cleaned up just fine.
I know they are easy to make but for the price each. I figured what the heck. I just don't have the time.
Now I have professional samples to copy.

I agree, these look exactly like the Braveheart brand. =dang


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## jlesser27

Where to start, I have been comfort buying for a while now. Here are my two favorites so far. 

Starrett 4 piece combination square in brand new condition with case $100 on eBay. 

Grizzly G1007 with power feed, DRO, and VFD. Plus two vices. $1000












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## Cr23484

Got this  Milwaukee 18 volt cordless hand planer.


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## DavidR8

Oh and I bought a box of files from the fellow with the dust collector. 
The large ones around the outside are flat/rounds, bunch of rounds, square, triangular and some regular flat ones. 
All are Black Diamond brand which was Nicholson in Canada. 






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## DavidR8

jlesser27 said:


> Where to start, I have been comfort buying for a while now. Here are my two favorites so far.
> 
> Starrett 4 piece combination square in brand new condition with case $100 on eBay.
> 
> Grizzly G1007 with power feed, DRO, and VFD. Plus two vices. $1000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Well done on the mill!


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## jlesser27

DavidR8 said:


> Well done on the mill!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks I’m in the process of cleaning it up it was acquired in a trade of a woodworker general contractor that we work with who i’m friendly with and had been collecting dust in his shop for a while now. I didn’t know he had it and he didn’t know I would buy it but the stars aligned. I had a separate post about this a couple weeks ago and I finally got into the garage shop. 


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## Janderso

DavidR8 said:


> Oh and I bought a box of files from the fellow with the dust collector.
> The large ones around the outside are flat/rounds, bunch of rounds, square, triangular and some regular flat ones.
> All are Black Diamond brand which was Nicholson in Canada.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I really like this score!


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## francist

There’s been a lot of really nice woodworking tools showing up in my area the last few months, and at very tempting prices. I think there’s a couple collectors downsizing so the buying market is good. My collecting days are over but I still couldn’t pass up this #78 from Stanley.

These are a really nice plane for sash work — good weight but still light enough for one handed operation, long enough to peel a good shaving, and two irons for regular or bullnose positioning. This one only has the one iron and cap but that’s ok, I left the complete one for someone who wants the intact collector item. I just want this to use.




Edit: guess I could show the other side too. Comes with depth stop, fence, and nicker.


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> There’s been a lot of really nice woodworking tools showing up in my area the last few months, and at very tempting prices. I think there’s a couple collectors downsizing so the buying market is good. My collecting days are over but I still couldn’t pass up this #78 from Stanley.
> 
> These are a really nice plane for sash work — good weight but still light enough for one handed operation, long enough to peel a good shaving, and two irons for regular or bullnose positioning. This one only has the one iron and cap but that’s ok, I left the complete one for someone who wants the intact collector item. I just want this to use.
> 
> View attachment 334298
> 
> 
> Edit: guess I could show the other side too. Comes with depth stop, fence, and nicker.
> 
> View attachment 334300



Very nice find Frank. I love those old Stanley’s. 
I have a #45 stashed away somewhere. Intact with most of the original set of cutters. 


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## DavidR8

Janderso said:


> I really like this score!



Thanks Jeff, I’ve been hoping to find a stash of files and today was my day!
Some need some tlc but the large ones look unused. 


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## francist

DavidR8 said:


> I have a #45 stashed away somewhere. Intact with most of the original set of cutters.


Yeah me too — #45, 55, 71, 171, 93, 193, 28, 29,  ..... the list goes on. Don’t use them much anymore but still nice to have around just in case. That second #78 is still over there — two irons and caps plus the fence and rods......


----------



## Nogoingback

I've been working on the house a bit recently and needed a tool to make plunge cuts that I couldn't do with my other saws, so I 
bought a Makita multitool.   Also ordered a diamond coated blade for brick from Imperial Blades, who sell a wide range of blades
for this type of tool.


----------



## Papa Charlie

jlesser27 said:


> Where to start, I have been comfort buying for a while now. Here are my two favorites so far.
> 
> Starrett 4 piece combination square in brand new condition with case $100 on eBay.
> 
> Grizzly G1007 with power feed, DRO, and VFD. Plus two vices. $1000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Glad to hear that you got the Grizzly. Nice looking unit. 
Also, nice Starrett set for a great price.


----------



## JRaut

Nogoingback said:


> View attachment 334303
> 
> I've been working on the house a bit recently and needed a tool to make plunge cuts that I couldn't do with my other saws, so I
> bought a Makita multitool.   Also ordered a diamond coated blade for brick from Imperial Blades, who sell a wide range of blades
> for this type of tool.



I bought the same exact one a couple months ago for the same purpose. I've been cutting out old rotten window sills. It's been great. Though it heats up pretty good when you're giving it what-for.


----------



## Nogoingback

JRaut said:


> I bought the same exact one a couple months ago for the same purpose. I've been cutting out old rotten window sills. It's been great. Though it heats up pretty good when you're giving it what-for.




I haven't noticed that yet, but I've got the speed turned down from max, so that might explain it.  So far, it's been great.


----------



## gr8legs

Recent acquisitions:

Long ago at a garage sale I spent a few bucks on the Reed tubing cutter (top) - range about 1/8" to 2 1/2". Thought I was 'good to go' until last week when I tried using it to cut some 1" plastic conduit. Found out why it was so cheap, the ratchet slipped at that size tubing. Grrr. eBay search found a $30-ish General Tool Co replacement. General used to be all USA-made, this one from China. Oh well, still General but disappointing. Seems OK for now, time will tell.



Went on a Shars mini buying spree. Set of carbide boring bits, a couple of tool holders for them, a Albrecht-style chuck with Morse taper and a couple of taper adapters and Morse tool holders for same. Now can do power drilling on the lathe or whatever.





And, very recently a set of 'machinists jacks' after I had a project to mill a bit off a longish steel bar and the mill pressure was putting quite a strain on the vise holding the stock. I cribbed it up with some bits of plastic and steel shims but adjustable jack stands would have been better. Except available jacks including General, Fowler, Trashcanistan etc. were just a tad too tall to fit into the needed space between the mill vise and the mill bed. Got these and will be extending the threads and shortening the shafts a bit to make them work. Oh well.




Wallet is a bit lighter now. I've got to stop losing weight like that !

Stu


----------



## Dhal22

gr8legs said:


> Recent acquisitions:
> 
> Long ago at a garage sale I spent a few bucks on the Reed tubing cutter (top) - range about 1/8" to 2 1/2". Thought I was 'good to go' until last week when I tried using it to cut some 1" plastic conduit. Found out why it was so cheap, the ratchet slipped at that size tubing. Grrr. eBay search found a $30-ish General Tool Co replacement. General used to be all USA-made, this one from China. Oh well, still General but disappointing. Seems OK for now, time will tell.
> View attachment 334466
> 
> 
> Went on a Shars mini buying spree. Set of carbide boring bits, a couple of tool holders for them, a Albrecht-style chuck with Morse taper and a couple of taper adapters and Morse tool holders for same. Now can do power drilling on the lathe or whatever.
> 
> View attachment 334468
> View attachment 334467
> 
> 
> And, very recently a set of 'machinists jacks' after I had a project to mill a bit off a longish steel bar and the mill pressure was putting quite a strain on the vise holding the stock. I cribbed it up with some bits of plastic and steel shims but adjustable jack stands would have been better. Except available jacks including General, Fowler, Trashcanistan etc. were just a tad too tall to fit into the needed space between the mill vise and the mill bed. Got these and will be extending the threads and shortening the shafts a bit to make them work. Oh well.
> 
> View attachment 334503
> 
> 
> Wallet is a bit lighter now. I've got to stop losing weight like that !
> 
> Stu




Any pipe tubing cutting will be frustrating if you don't use a Ridgid tubing cutter.  Sorry, plumber for the last 35 years, Ridgid only for me.


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## NCjeeper

Bought this Sterling drill grinder off of E-Bay back in April. The seller was in NY and the state was on lock down because of the virus. I had a friend that lived up there and he volunteered to pick it up and store it. I recently made the road trip to his place and brought it home. It will sharpen 1/8" to 2.5" drills. The company is still in business so parts are still available. No more dull drills for me.


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## hman

@gr8legs - I'm sure the new General pipe cutter will be useful for you.  But for PVC pipe, I'd like to suggest a Japanese style pull saw.  Here's the one I use most frequently, $15 at Lowes:


			https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-Marples-7-25-in-Dovetail-Cut-Pull-Saw/1000235177
		

I'd previously used a hacksaw to cut the PVC, but it makes a heck of a mess, and leaves a very rough cut surface on the pipe.  More or less accidentally tried the pull saw one day, and I was surprised at how clean the cut was and how little swarf it produced.


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## Gaffer

I saw an add on CL for a fairly local auction. I hadn't tried my luck at one before and so I took the plunge. I happy with my buys:
I bought a Wilton 4" bullet vise for $200. It's a little rough but nothing that won't clean up fine. There is a descent shark bite underneath the moveable jaw I couldn't see in the photos. It doesn't intrude into the jaw and it shouldn't present a problem. I'm looking forward to the restore.




Next I bought Phase II indexer (225-205) for $60. It's complete, clean and functions - sans 5C collets or a chuck, but hey, it was $60!




Another score was Heinrich 4TS vise. The lot also included this Rutland - Made in Japan, accessory that I have no idea what it is. I only cared about the vise. All it needs are jaws, and they will be fun to make. I think $30 for this lot was slamm'n! I'm curious what the Rutland device is. It is for horizontal or vertical mounting. The lever closes around a collet? There is a threaded nut, for lack of the proper term, behind the collet closer/clamp. It has tapped holes all around it, and it spins. I did a quick search on the internet, but only found a rotary table, and this ain't it. What say you?




My mystery piece:







I also bought about 30 lbs of reamers, some good, most not so much, but it's good steel for future projects ($10).




And lastly, misc. micrometers, and a nice depth micro not in the picture. ($55).


----------



## extropic

@Gaffer
Good haul there. You described the Rutland item well. Mount it on a mill table. Install a 5C collet, which is pulled/released by rotating the lever. Turn the nut, with a pin, to adjust the collet's grip on your workpiece. It's the same thing as the Phase II indexer, except without the rotating/indexing spindle feature.  Example


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## Gaffer

extropic said:


> @Gaffer
> Good haul there. You described the Rutland item well. Mount it on a mill table. Install a 5C collet, which is pulled/released by rotating the lever. Turn the nut, with a pin, to adjust the collet's grip on your workpiece. It's the same thing as the Phase II indexer, except without the rotating/indexing spindle feature.  Example


That makes sense. Thank you.


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## Papa Charlie

I have been wanting a Machinery's Handbook for some time. I had been holding out for a new one but I know of too many that use very old editions with no regret. Started bidding on Ebay for a really nice 20th Edition but wasn't paying close enough attention and lost it. Searched again and found a an even nicer 17th edition for less money and with a "Buy it Now" button. So I got it for $24 shipped.




Also while working on my lathe over the weekend, I had swapped the 3 jaw for the 4 jaw. But when I was playing with the jaws the wrench was too close to the gear box for my comfort. The wrench is a 3/8" square drive so went on to Amazon and found this for $11 delivered with Prime. Will work really well.



Finally, I have ordered a bunch of small parts for the lathe from Grizzly and while I was doing that I ordered a 4 Way tool post handle and handle hub that I will bore out for my AXA quick change to replace the post nut. This was done by TerryH here on the forum and I really like not having to keep a wrench handy and don't want it on the tool post all the time. This is the perfect size. But it will require me to drill it out and tap it for M14-1.5 pitch. So I ordered these, a Taper and Plug Tap to do the work. Got them for $15 delivered.


----------



## hman

Well, I done pulled the trigger today.  Ordered a Precision Matthews PM835-S "baby Bridgeport" style mill, complete with DRO.


			https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-835smill/
		

It will be a replacement/upgrade for my round column mill.  

It may well be that I'm the first one here to buy one of these.  I posted a request for comment about a week ago, but -crickets-.  Once I get the mill up and running, I'll post photos and comments.


----------



## pontiac428

You will very much like having a knee and getting away from the round column.  Congrats!

I usually don't comment on Precision Matthews fantasy shopping cart threads, but "pulling the trigger" is a commitment to action.  The next two weeks or so will be excruciating for you while you wait, I'm sure!  Now get that little spot on the floor cleared and start spending any remaining credit you have on tooling you may never use, because you have a limited time to act.  Do  you feel the urgency?  Get that set of reverse-thread 5c collets coming!

The big question (the one I'm still waiting for an answer on myself) is when will it be okay to sell the old, trusted round column mill?  I just can't part with mine because it's become "old reliable" while the new mill is still not completely proven...  not completely.


----------



## hman

Indeed, the order is IN, and my bank website shows the credit card charge as "pending."  

I don't anticipate any urgency about the delivery ... especially given PM's good reputation. The Grizzle G1007 is still working fine, and I also have a mini-mill and a mini CNC mill to stay busy on.  Among the other planning/preparation activities I've done so far is to buy a pallet jack (handy to move the round column, and which I HOPE will be useful for the crate the new one comes in.  I'm also planning for what tooling to sell with the old mill, what replacement stuff to buy, etc. etc. etc.  Floor space (including storage of the Grizzle until it's sold) has been planned.  When I put it up for sale, it'll be as a "plug and play" package, complete with tooling and accessories.  I'm hoping to offer a good deal to a "new" machinist.

The PM will be something of a 73rd birthday present for myself


----------



## Papa Charlie

hman said:


> Indeed, the order is IN, and my bank website shows the credit card charge as "pending."
> 
> I don't anticipate any urgency about the delivery ... especially given PM's good reputation. The Grizzle G1007 is still working fine, and I also have a mini-mill and a mini CNC mill to stay busy on.  Among the other planning/preparation activities I've done so far is to buy a pallet jack (handy to move the round column, and which I HOPE will be useful for the crate the new one comes in.  I'm also planning for what tooling to sell with the old mill, what replacement stuff to buy, etc. etc. etc.  Floor space (including storage of the Grizzle until it's sold) has been planned.  When I put it up for sale, it'll be as a "plug and play" package, complete with tooling and accessories.  I'm hoping to offer a good deal to a "new" machinist.
> 
> The PM will be something of a 73rd birthday present for myself



I assume you specified that it come on a truck with  a lift gate. It is not always the standard. Most trucking companies charge  extra for it. Too often  even if it is coming on a truck with it anyway.


----------



## erikmannie

The Crucible, an art school in Oakland, has reopened. I just signed up for the weekend, 15 hour Arc Welding 1 (i.e. stick welding) class.

I took MIG Welding 1 last weekend and it was so helpful; I must have used 200 coupons. I am also taking Metal Shaping (including gas welding aluminum!) and retaking Turning & Milling.

My wife was very supportive with the purchase; she is a keeper for sure.

The Crucible is a very good school. I have been to both good & bad schools, and The Crucible is my favorite of them all. The worst school was the framebuilding program at United Bicycle Institute.


----------



## gr8legs

extropic said:


> I buy my expanding mandrels for Breakheart Tool Co. and have been very satisfied. I wonder if yours are also made by them. Anyway, buy direct from Breakheart for a 30+% savings relative to McMaster. Breakheart also makes other lathe accessories.


I'm a sucker for a tool I don't have and these Breakheart mandrels magically showed up today. One of two boxes in the USPS delivery.

Set comes with a wooden holder and Allen wrenches to fit. 70 bucks plus shipping in a USPS small flat rate box.



	

		
			
		

		
	
.

Preliminary inspection says they look good. It does not appear that the sizes overlap so there may be some 'dead zones' but I will have to do some more tweaking to verify.

And now on to package #2

My auto hoist arm extension project needed round corners on the extension arms so after getting a couple of 'onesies' I sprung for a used set on the Bay. First time I ever needed or wanted a rounded corner on metal, now it will become a standard feature, especially on aluminum stock ~ not so much on steel as these are just inexpensive (Interstate) HSS tools. Wasn't a complete set but I filled in the gap with one of the previous purchases.




Back to massaging the pocketbook to alleviate the pain. It may help.

Stu


----------



## hman

Yup. Shipping was a flat rate $399 and liftgate service was an additional $49.  The truck will be able to get right to the door of my shop (concrete driveway) and I don't anticipate any trouble moving it in from there.


----------



## extropic

gr8legs said:


> I'm a sucker for a tool I don't have and these Breakheart mandrels magically showed up today. One of two boxes in the USPS delivery.
> 
> Set comes with a wooden holder and Allen wrenches to fit. 70 bucks plus shipping in a USPS small flat rate box.
> 
> View attachment 334784
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Preliminary inspection says they look good. *It does not appear that the sizes overlap so there may be some 'dead zones'* but I will have to do some more tweaking to verify.  snip>



No such thing as a dead zone. You turn down the smallest size that is larger than the diameter you need. Only turn down the length you need so you'll eventually end up with stepped mandrels. There is a seller on eBay (factory, I assume) that seems to sell all Breakheart lathe accessories. The seller name is  thirdwheelrider. I keep spares on hand (you know why). Looks like eBay is free shipping on that set. Sorry about that. I didn't think about eBay 'till just now. Also, import clones on eBay for less $$, but I can only guess as to quality. Breakheart = USA made and no problems.
Disclosure: No connection with Breakheart. Just a satisfied customer.


----------



## gr8legs

extropic said:


> You turn down the smallest size that is larger than the diameter you need.



Ah, I see the light!

Thanks!

Stu

Although if I ever do use one of these I will probably replace it with something from East Trashcanistan. I buy American *tools* whenever possible, but expendables I will opt for low cost especially if it is just raw 'stock' that I machine to size. Wallet fatigue I guess.


----------



## Papa Charlie

gr8legs said:


> I'm a sucker for a tool I don't have and these Breakheart mandrels magically showed up today. One of two boxes in the USPS delivery.
> 
> Set comes with a wooden holder and Allen wrenches to fit. 70 bucks plus shipping in a USPS small flat rate box.
> 
> View attachment 334784
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Preliminary inspection says they look good. It does not appear that the sizes overlap so there may be some 'dead zones' but I will have to do some more tweaking to verify.
> Stu



Those look very handy. I have had to make mandrels like this in the past for jobs, this would surely make life a lot easier.


----------



## finsruskw

The brown truck showed up today with a couple goodies for the 9A
Yeah, it's import but didn't break the bank and it surely will do what I want to do I hope!!


----------



## JRaut

Pick up this beauty to replace my junky Harbor Freight 4x6 bandsaw.

Peerless 6x6 power hacksaw. All told, it weighs in at about 800 pounds (a tad heavier than my current 4x6!). Has a coolant pump in the base, too.

Paid about $200 for it at an estate sale. Seems the prior owner (rest his soul...) completely went through it and repainted it when he was done. Everything seems to work on it perfectly.

It's got a 120V single phase motor, so no need for anything fancy. Cuts better than twice as fast as the 4x6. And a much more satisfying looking mechanism, too.


----------



## Papa Charlie

JRaut said:


> Pick up this beauty to replace my junky Harbor Freight 4x6 bandsaw.
> 
> Peerless 6x6 power hacksaw. All told, it weighs in at about 800 pounds (a tad heavier than my current 4x6!). Has a coolant pump in the base, too.
> 
> Paid about $200 for it at an estate sale. Seems the prior owner (rest his soul...) completely went through it and repainted it when he was done. Everything seems to work on it perfectly.
> 
> It's got a 120V single phase motor, so no need for anything fancy. Cuts better than twice as fast as the 4x6. And a much more satisfying looking mechanism, too.
> 
> View attachment 335043
> 
> 
> View attachment 335044



Nice find.

I hope to find one of these myself. Like them better than band saws. Would be really cool if it had been painted to match the factory image.

Also, I see in the add that is originally had one of the automatic oilers. Most likely the brass ones. I know it doesn't matter, but I love the nostalgia of the old equipment, most of which would well out me.


----------



## brino

JRaut said:


> Peerless 6x6 power hacksaw.



That's Beautiful!

Also, you can find some manuals and drawings here:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/categories/peerless.966/

-brino


----------



## DavidR8

JRaut said:


> Pick up this beauty to replace my junky Harbor Freight 4x6 bandsaw.
> 
> Peerless 6x6 power hacksaw. All told, it weighs in at about 800 pounds (a tad heavier than my current 4x6!). Has a coolant pump in the base, too.
> 
> Paid about $200 for it at an estate sale. Seems the prior owner (rest his soul...) completely went through it and repainted it when he was done. Everything seems to work on it perfectly.
> 
> It's got a 120V single phase motor, so no need for anything fancy. Cuts better than twice as fast as the 4x6. And a much more satisfying looking mechanism, too.
> 
> View attachment 335043
> 
> 
> View attachment 335044


Wow! Nice machine, how wide is that blade???


----------



## hman

Great looking saw!  I'm surprised to hear it works faster than a band saw (even a cheap 4x6).  I'd always heard that, because hacksaws wasted time returning the blade, bandsaws were faster.  Live and learn!  

Just for fun, especially for you Back Easters, here's one for sale in Maryland (though you might have to fight @mmcmdl for it) 








						Craftsman Power Hacksaw in Baltimore, MD.
					

This seems like a perfect project for an H-M member...  https://www.ebay.com/itm/274471080169?ul_noapp=true




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				












						Sears Craftsman Power Hacksaw  | eBay
					

<p dir="ltr">Sears Craftsman Power Hacksaw. Condition is Used. Local pickup only. It actually works when I took switch cover off. Needs complete restoration.</p>



					www.ebay.com


----------



## Papa Charlie

hman said:


> Great looking saw!  I'm surprised to hear it works faster than a band saw (even a cheap 4x6).  I'd always heard that, because hacksaws wasted time returning the blade, bandsaws were faster.  Live and learn!
> 
> Just for fun, especially for you Back Easters, here's one for sale in Maryland (though you might have to fight @mmcmdl for it)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Craftsman Power Hacksaw in Baltimore, MD.
> 
> 
> This seems like a perfect project for an H-M member...  https://www.ebay.com/itm/274471080169?ul_noapp=true
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hobby-machinist.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sears Craftsman Power Hacksaw  | eBay
> 
> 
> <p dir="ltr">Sears Craftsman Power Hacksaw. Condition is Used. Local pickup only. It actually works when I took switch cover off. Needs complete restoration.</p>
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com



I am no expert, but a power hacksaw compared to a comparable band saw may not be as fast. Hard to determine a reasonable comparison. Heavier power hacksaws can  not only be pretty fast, but they can also be more accurate than band saws. But I have seen precision band saws with wide blades that are amazingly accurate. But at a price.

Personally, I prefer a power hacksaw as long as it is heavy enough like the one JRaut purchased. I am looking at a Racine near me but I would venture it is every bit has heavy as the Peerless and maybe more. My issue is I don't believe I can find room in the storage unit. I am currently waiting on a call form someone that has a nice 5hp, 220v, 1ph, 60 gallon Ingersoll-Rand air compressor. Will have to do some real shuffling to get it into storage.


----------



## JRaut

brino said:


> Also, you can find some manuals and drawings here:
> https://www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/categories/peerless.966/


Thanks, @brino. I found a bunch of good stuff over at VintageMachinery.org, but didn't even think to look in our own backyard, so to speak.



DavidR8 said:


> Wow! Nice machine, how wide is that blade???


It came with a handful of spare blades. Most are 14" x 1-1/2" x 0.075. And many of the extras are 4 TPI...... not sure I have the cojones to run something like that quite yet...




hman said:


> Great looking saw!  I'm surprised to hear it works faster than a band saw (even a cheap 4x6).  I'd always heard that, because hacksaws wasted time returning the blade, bandsaws were faster.  Live and learn!


This is mostly because it's not really a fair apples-apples comparison. This Peerless is an industrial, metal-hogging machine with power downfeed (well, strong-spring-assisted downfeed anyway), equipped with a blade with a super aggressive tooth pitch.

The Harbor Freight is but a toy in comparison...

That said, Peerless still---to this day---makes power hacksaws. So they still do have a place in this world.


----------



## DavidR8

4 TPI! That is seriously aggressive!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mmcmdl

hman said:


> Just for fun, especially for you Back Easters, here's one for sale in Maryland (though you might have to fight @mmcmdl for it)



Bryan ( vtcnc ) and I may just pick this up if the price is right . He suggested we restore it , have a contest of some sort , and give it away to a member on here . Sounds like a plan to me !!


----------



## Dhal22

DavidR8 said:


> 4 TPI! That is seriously aggressive!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




The rest of the world is tpm? tpcm?  Asking for an avowed imperial system aficionado friend.


----------



## matthewsx

Nice meme. Got me thinking as my dad was an engineer for United Technologies testing the Saturn V motors.

Unfortunately though like so many memes this one may be more sentiment than reality. Metric units are, and have been used in scientific applications for obvious reasons. A quick search finds this....









						The Moon landings
					

Contrary to urban myth, NASA did use the metric system for the Apollo Moon landings. SI units were used for arguably the most critical part of the missions – the calculations that were carrie…




					ukma.org.uk
				




Seems like a well researched and documented piece of writing. Memes are easy but often created for reasons beyond their seemingly simple messages.

John


----------



## darkzero

A couple of new scales for measuring my powders & herbs. Uh, that didn't sound right, I mean my white crystals & spices. Ah never mind!  

The big one is to replace my HF scale that I used for shipping. My HF scale maxes out at 11 lbs & every once in a while I need to weigh heavier stuff. This one has a max of 70 90 lbs. Not that I need that much but it's nice to have instead of using my bathroom scale. Has a hold button for larger packages that might cover the display when weighing. Smaller one has a higher resolution & I will be using it for my anodizing related powders. It also has a piece counting feature. I used to use an expensive counting scale at work, not sure if it will come in handy at home.




A pound of 60/40 solder. I hate lead free solder. This should last me the rest of my life. Also a couple of flux pens, was down to my last one. I use the pens when I'm away from home.




Fancy Tsunoda cable tie cutters. I have a thing for unique tools & Japanese market tools. Wasn't planning to use them specifically for zip ties only but they do work pretty good for that.





Replacement tips for my old Matco hammer that's made by Nupla. Seems like this size is uncommon & not very many places carry them. Was surprised to find them at MSC & for half of what Amazon was charging for them, Amazon was out of stock on them too.


----------



## darkzero

0-1/2" Starrett micrometer. I've been on a quest for tiny 1/2" micrometers. Finally closing that chapter, I think. 



I have another 0-1/2" Starrett with a round anvil & no spindle lock. It won't be so lonely anymore.




Carmex 5/8" internal threading bar. Been wanting one that takes 3/8" IC inserts. My other Carmex bar is a 1/2" that takes 1/4" IC inserts & can't cut pitches coarser than 16 TPI.





Big Gator imperial drill guide. Now I just need the imperial tap guide to complete my set. I really like these Big Gator guides.





Ultra thin 1/32" parallel set. Never need them yet but always wanted a set. I noticed the prices have pretty much doubled everywhere so I decided to pick them up while I could still find them cheap.




50 pack of the cheap HSS tool bits.


----------



## hman

darkzero said:


> The big one is to replace my HF scale that I used for shipping. My HF scale maxes out at 11 lbs & every once in a while I need to weigh heavier stuff. This one has a max of 70 lbs. Not that I need that much but it's nice to have instead of using my bathroom scale. Has a hold button for larger packages that might cover the display when weighing. Smaller one has a higher resolution & I will be using it for my anodizing related powders. It also has a piece counting feature. I used to use an expensive counting scale at work, not sure if it will come in handy at home.


Nice capacity on the larger scale.  Does it turn off automatically?  I've gotten really ticked off at mine since I bought it ... seems to turn itself off after a way-too-short time, generally just the instant before I put the next item on it !!_%#@*:"^$!!  If yours has a decent length of time before shutting itself off, please let us now where you got it.  Thanks!


----------



## extropic

@darkzero

You're a maniac.      This thread is, sometimes, like watching somebody else's Christmas home video.


----------



## mmcmdl

Small mics ? Will . I had inside mics so small , when I wound them down I always lost them they were so small . They've been missing for years !


----------



## darkzero

hman said:


> Nice capacity on the larger scale.  Does it turn off automatically?  I've gotten really ticked off at mine since I bought it ... seems to turn itself off after a way-too-short time, generally just the instant before I put the next item on it !!_%#@*:"^$!!  If yours has a decent length of time before shutting itself off, please let us now where you got it.  Thanks!



Yes it does turn off automatically, both of them do. That was actually one of the things I was looking for when buying them. My HF scale when I used it for weighing the powders, it would p!ss me off cause it would turn off so fast before I was finished weighing my mix. I did find one scale that had a switch to disable the auto off feature but it had bad reviews. There was another scale used for coffee that had a built in timer. If you enabled the timer it would not auto shutoff. But I don't need a timer & those only had a weight capacity of 3-6 lbs so not good for a shipping scale.

I just tested them. The small scale shuts off after 5 mins which is perfect for me needs for weighing powders. The big scale turns off in only 1 min 40 sec which again is fine for me for a shipping scale. However both these scales will stay on if you plug them in & is one of the reasons why I choose them. And both come with the AC adapters. Actually the big one comes with a USB cord & a USB to AC adapter. So you could even plug it into a computer or USB phone charger. The cord is only for power, not data transfer.

The big scale was pretty cheap too, only $25 from Amazon. However the minimum start weight is 10g. Perfectly fine with me for a shipping scale as long as it will read down to an oz which is does (0.1 oz resolution). Also the reason why I bought two different scales. I searched for days for scales that would suit my needs & weren't crazy expensive.






						Amazon.com : Weighmax W-2809 90 LB X 0.1 OZ Durable Stainless Steel Digital Postal Scale, Shipping Scale With AC adapter : Office Products
					

Amazon.com : Weighmax W-2809 90 LB X 0.1 OZ Durable Stainless Steel Digital Postal Scale, Shipping Scale With AC adapter : Office Products



					www.amazon.com
				




Edit: Confirmed, plugged the big one into USB, been on for 30 mins now.


----------



## hman

Wow!  Many, many thanks!


----------



## matthewsx

Parts for my Bolton repair.




Gonna use my lathe to fix my lathe 

John


----------



## Saguaro Slim

@darkzero
A pound of 60/40 solder. I hate lead free solder. This should last me the rest of my life.

Agree about hating Pb free, the rosin core flux in your wire goes south in 2-3 years...


----------



## darkzero

Saguaro Slim said:


> Agree about hating Pb free, the rosin core flux in your wire goes south in 2-3 years...



I'm not worried about the flux. My last 2 spools of rosin core lasted me over 10 yrs (different brand) & worked fine. I also have a bottle of rosin flux that is older than that, still works fine also. None of this is for professional/commercial use. At my old work we had to switch over to Pb free solder & no clean flux but I had my own stash.


----------



## Dhal22

matthewsx said:


> Nice meme. Got me thinking as my dad was an engineer for United Technologies testing the Saturn V motors.
> 
> Unfortunately though like so many memes this one may be more sentiment than reality. Metric units are, and have been used in scientific applications for obvious reasons. A quick search finds this....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Moon landings
> 
> 
> Contrary to urban myth, NASA did use the metric system for the Apollo Moon landings. SI units were used for arguably the most critical part of the missions – the calculations that were carrie…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ukma.org.uk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like a well researched and documented piece of writing. Memes are easy but often created for reasons beyond their seemingly simple messages.
> 
> John



My dad and uncle worked on the Saturn V project.   I think my uncle was one of the main fuel pump designers.


----------



## vtcnc

extropic said:


> @darkzero
> 
> You're a maniac.      This thread is, sometimes, like watching somebody else's Christmas home video.


This is the most harmless Group Recovery site on the internet. Keeps us off the streets!


----------



## FOMOGO

I actually ordered this Langmuir Systems Crossfire Pro plasma table back at the end of April. Delivery was estimated to be some time in July,
	

		
			
		

		
	





	

		
			
		

		
	
 but with all that's been going on with Covid in Calif. I'm not complaining. They were always very responsive to e-mails, and always notified me when the next package was being shipped. Received the last of three shipments a week ago and unpacked it this morning. Hoping to have it all assembled by tomorrow evening if all goes well. I have a lot of other work going on, but will spend evenings trying to wrap my head around fusion 360, and the machine soft ware. Hopefully I'll be able to put it to good use this winter. Cheers, Mike


----------



## Stonebriar

Ill look forward to your progress.


----------



## Papa Charlie

FOMOGO said:


> I actually ordered this Langmuir Systems Crossfire Pro plasma table back at the end of April. Delivery was estimated to be some time in July,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 335192
> View attachment 335193
> View attachment 335194
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but with all that's been going on with Covid in Calif. I'm not complaining. They were always very responsive to e-mails, and always notified me when the next package was being shipped. Received the last of three shipments a week ago and unpacked it this morning. Hoping to have it all assembled by tomorrow evening if all goes well. I have a lot of other work going on, but will spend evenings trying to wrap my head around fusion 360, and the machine soft ware. Hopefully I'll be able to put it to good use this winter. Cheers, Mike



That looks like a really nice unit. I looked on their website. I am very interested to learn more about these table systems. I look forward to hearing your review on it when you get it up and running.


----------



## davidcarmichael

hman said:


> Well, I done pulled the trigger today.  Ordered a Precision Matthews PM835-S "baby Bridgeport" style mill, complete with DRO.
> 
> 
> https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-835smill/
> 
> 
> It will be a replacement/upgrade for my round column mill.
> 
> It may well be that I'm the first one here to buy one of these.  I posted a request for comment about a week ago, but -crickets-.  Once I get the mill up and running, I'll post photos and comments.


I responded to something similar a short time ago.



			https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/anyone-have-a-pm-835s.86182/reply?quote=769798
		


I didn't expect to have any problem getting from liftgate to final location, but I was so very wrong.


----------



## hman

OK, color me stupid.  I just went back to look at my earlier thread, and discovered that I'd titled it PM-832S, not 835S. 

Many thanks for the link!  What problems did you have??? Did the pallet not fit a standard pallet jack -or- what else was a problem?  Enquiring minds want to know!


----------



## darkzero

hman said:


> OK, color me stupid.  I just went back to look at my earlier thread, and discovered that I'd titled it PM-832S, not 835S.
> 
> Many thanks for the link!  What problems did you have??? Did the pallet not fit a standard pallet jack -or- what else was a problem?  Enquiring minds want to know!



Fixed


----------



## hman

Wow!  Thank you ever so much, Will!


----------



## Aukai

Nice plasma setup Mike, some assembly required I see


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a Brother PT-D400 label maker:


----------



## ttabbal

erikmannie said:


> I bought a Brother PT-D400 label maker:



I don't see a label that says "label maker" on it. As many labels as I see, I feel like it deserves one.


----------



## darkzero

erikmannie said:


> I bought a Brother PT-D400 label maker:
> View attachment 335337
> View attachment 335340



And I thought I got carried carry away when I got my P-Touch! I label all kinds of stuff but my tool boxes are too messy to label.


----------



## hman

That 18mm tape makes some nicely large labels.


----------



## erikmannie

hman said:


> That 18mm tape makes some nicely large labels.


...which is exactly what I need because my vision is terrible!


----------



## Aukai

Ya been a busy little beaver.


----------



## 682bear

It was a freebie...



I mentioned to my father that I was looking for an arbor press... he said he had one in the barn that I could have if I wanted it. I brought it home this morning. It is an Enco No. 3... it needs a lot of cleaning, derusting, and oiling, but seems to be in good condition otherwise.

-Bear


----------



## extropic

@682bear 

I  really like that the designer incorporated a slot to facilitate lift/carry. I'd not noticed that feature on other arbor presses. The ones I have (Dake & Greenerd) could really use such a feature.

I see now that some Grainger's Dayton arbor presses have the slot also.

I learned something today. I'm exhausted. LOL


----------



## 682bear

extropic said:


> @682bear
> 
> I  really like that the designer incorporated a slot to facilitate lift/carry. I'd not noticed that feature on other arbor presses. The ones I have (Dake & Greenerd) could really use such a feature.
> 
> I see now that some Grainger's Dayton arbor presses have the slot also.
> 
> I learned something today. I'm exhausted. LOL



I thought that was a pretty neat feature...

-Bear


----------



## alloy

Bought me a new "welding clamp" yesterday at a garage sale.  

Well that;s what he said it was.  Told me it holds parts so you can weld them.

Also bought the second thingamajig.  He didn't know what it was.

I did.  

Sitting inside my parts washer now.


Dropped $25 bones on these


----------



## extropic

@alloy

Is that a gripper for pulling stock on your new (to you) lathe? 
Coolant powered or ???


----------



## BROCKWOOD

Picked up a pallet of tools from the shipper today. 




My 1st Kurt! Very happy with the height gauge, couple of larger angle plates, Van Norman no2 collet holder & the Harig Air-Flo Sharpener seen here.

A few items were also delivered in the sharpener box.




A 12" Fowler level, small vise & a compliment of transfer screws!




The Harig will be a future restoration project. Just going to put it away for now as is with a thorough WD40 soaking.


----------



## alloy

extropic said:


> @alloy
> 
> Is that a gripper for pulling stock on your new (to you) lathe?
> Coolant powered or ???



Yes it is a bar puller.  Spring loaded. Royal brand.


But I may not be able to use it.  Im not sure it it will clear when the turret rotates. Ill check that when its all back together and the turret fixed.


My ball screw will be back today and I have a repair guy coming on Thursday to try and fix the turret problem.  When you command it to change tools it starts spinning and doesn't stop until it errors out. And I want him do disconnect the bar feeder. I will never use it, and don't really have the room for it.


----------



## tq60

For a control project we stumbled on these inductive ammeters.

21 bucks for 3, wanted 3 of same color so ordered 2 more sets.

Great for balancing 3 phase systems as you can see actual amps per leg.

They have same device that also goes volts.

Amazon has a lot of fun stuff...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## WobblyHand

Received a bunch of little red boxes to organize my tool bench.  Maybe this will calm some of the chaos!  Here are some of them.


Schaller Corporation.  They are on eBay, or you can buy direct from them.  I measured a lot of stuff, made a list, and figured out what boxes would fit.  Took a lot longer to make the master list than I expected!  Being close by, I received them in 1 day via UPS!


----------



## Buffalo21

I broke down and bought a Miller Coolmate 3.5 tig cooler, to go with the Dynasty 350, I own. The 3 gallons of anti-freeze coolant, was close tot $100. Damn this is getting expensive.


----------



## WobblyHand

Buffalo21 said:


> I broke down and bought a Miller Coolmate 3.5 tig cooler, to go with the Dynasty 350, I own. The 3 gallons of anti-freeze coolant, was close tot $100. Damn this is getting expensive.


You are not going to regret the cooler.  With a water cooled tig you can weld as long as you like, or you hit the machine duty cycle limit.  Air cooled, well, it just gets too hot to handle.  Have fun with it!


----------



## pontiac428

Miller TIG coolant is made out of 1/3rd propylene glycol (available for $20 a gallon or less), 2/3rds distilled water, and two shot glasses of benzalkonium chloride (or equivalent cheap quaternary amine).  That's it, no voodoo, no black magic, just cheap components mixed by someone else that mysteriously go up 3x in cost when bottled.  Last time I bought Miller coolant, it was $60/gallon.  I pulled the datasheets and Bob's your uncle.


----------



## hman

@BROCKWOOD - Nice score!  Those all look like high quality tools.  Minor rust on the Kurt shouldn't be a problem at all.


----------



## Crankit

Small Kennedy box from a retired owner of Tool & Die shop that he had never used since he bought in 2014


----------



## JRaut

I recently bought several items at auction, including a Dorian size DA* QCTP w/ 6 holders.

I _was_ planning on selling off the Dorian set, but it's a perfect fit on my 10" Montgomery Wards lathe, don't you think?? 





******
AXA = 2.5" square tool post footprint
BXA = 3.0" square
CXA = 3.5" square
CA = 4.0" square
DA = 5.0" square
EA = 6.0" square


----------



## mmcmdl

Looks like a perfect fit !


----------



## Papa Charlie

JRaut said:


> I recently bought several items at auction, including a Dorian size DA* QCTP w/ 6 holders.
> 
> I _was_ planning on selling off the Dorian set, but it's a perfect fit on my 10" Montgomery Wards lathe, don't you think??
> 
> View attachment 335641
> 
> 
> 
> ******
> AXA = 2.5" square tool post footprint
> BXA = 3.0" square
> CXA = 3.5" square
> CA = 4.0" square
> DA = 5.0" square
> EA = 6.0" square



I think it fits perfect. You won't have to worry about tool chatter at least and it will help hold your lathe down in place.
One of those new costs as much as many of our lathes. Not including the tool holders.


----------



## darkzero

WobblyHand said:


> Received a bunch of little red boxes to organize my tool bench.  Maybe this will calm some of the chaos!  Here are some of them.
> View attachment 335490
> 
> Schaller Corporation.  They are on eBay, or you can buy direct from them.  I measured a lot of stuff, made a list, and figured out what boxes would fit.  Took a lot longer to make the master list than I expected!  Being close by, I received them in 1 day via UPS!



I love Schaller bins. I don't have a whole lot of them (well not a crazy amount like some guys do) as I'm not using them in my tool box drawers but I should. But again I love them, just wish they had cheaper shipping options so I can buy what I need instead of trying to make it worthwhile & but what I think I'll need.


----------



## Ianagos

JRaut said:


> I recently bought several items at auction, including a Dorian size DA* QCTP w/ 6 holders.
> 
> I _was_ planning on selling off the Dorian set, but it's a perfect fit on my 10" Montgomery Wards lathe, don't you think??
> 
> View attachment 335641
> 
> 
> 
> ******
> AXA = 2.5" square tool post footprint
> BXA = 3.0" square
> CXA = 3.5" square
> CA = 4.0" square
> DA = 5.0" square
> EA = 6.0" square



Just remove the compound and use just that toolpost.


----------



## addertooth

I have to level my new mini lathe. Today I purchased a truly ancient Starrett 98-12 three vial version (back when they had a glossy black finish instead of the more modern crackle black finish).  It will be used to get a more accurate level than my current level (a Brown and Sharpe catalog #438 four piece machinist combination square).


----------



## Superburban

JRaut said:


> I recently bought several items at auction, including a Dorian size DA* QCTP w/ 6 holders.
> 
> I _was_ planning on selling off the Dorian set, but it's a perfect fit on my 10" Montgomery Wards lathe, don't you think??
> 
> View attachment 335641
> 
> 
> 
> ******
> AXA = 2.5" square tool post footprint
> BXA = 3.0" square
> CXA = 3.5" square
> CA = 4.0" square
> DA = 5.0" square
> EA = 6.0" square


Years back, I bought a tool holder, not knowing enough, When I received it, it was giant. either a D, or E, I have it around here somewhere.  Here is the dovetail cutter I bought about the same time. That is a larger then normal coffee cup. IIRC, it is a 2" dia shaft. Now that I have a mill that can handle it, I cannot find where it got packed away between the last two moves we made.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

JRaut said:


> I recently bought several items at auction, including a Dorian size DA* QCTP w/ 6 holders.
> 
> I _was_ planning on selling off the Dorian set, but it's a perfect fit on my 10" Montgomery Wards lathe, don't you think??



Easy solution - buy a new lathe to fit!


----------



## 682bear

New projects... it never ends, does it?

I went today and hauled a bunch of junk home. 

A Makita pedestal grinder on a sturdy pedestal...



A Rouselle 10 ton stamping press with some sort of automated control...



Why would someone put an automated control on a stamping press?

And a K&T Milwaukee model H horizontal mill...




The grinder is the only one of the three that could be tested under power, but I bought all three for about scrap price, so if they aren't usable, I won't be out anything but time and a few gallons of gas.

The same guy had a Sidney lathe... about a 14 inch conehead wigh a long bed... about 92 inches from the chuck face to the end of the ways. I thought about it, but I'm running out of space!

-Bear


----------



## Aukai

That's some tonnage


----------



## Buffalo21

the bill finally hit, the Miller anti-freeze was $26 plus tax a gallon.


----------



## pontiac428

Buffalo21 said:


> the bill finally hit, the Miller anti-freeze was $26 plus tax a gallon.



That's not bad, my Miller Radiator-1 takes 3 gallons.  The propylene glycol recipe for 3 gallons would cost about $25 through Amazon, plus distilled water.  That's as simple as coolant can be, just the glycol (surfactant/antifreeze), the biocide, and water.  It's non-conductive, not that it matters in a tig torch.  No other additives, preservatives, corrosion inhibitors, mosquito spit, or unicorn tears to throw the chemistry outta whack.  Good for any cooling loop.


----------



## JRaut

Dang, that certainly is a lot of tonnage!



682bear said:


> A Rouselle 10 ton stamping press with some sort of automated control...
> 
> View attachment 335710



Careful with that thing..... machine like that’ll eat two fingers for dinner and come begging for seconds.


----------



## DavidR8

JRaut said:


> I recently bought several items at auction, including a Dorian size DA* QCTP w/ 6 holders.
> 
> I _was_ planning on selling off the Dorian set, but it's a perfect fit on my 10" Montgomery Wards lathe, don't you think??
> 
> View attachment 335641
> 
> 
> 
> ******
> AXA = 2.5" square tool post footprint
> BXA = 3.0" square
> CXA = 3.5" square
> CA = 4.0" square
> DA = 5.0" square
> EA = 6.0" square



I fear for the chuck in the event of a negative toolpost and chuck interaction!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 682bear

JRaut said:


> Dang, that certainly is a lot of tonnage!
> 
> 
> 
> Careful with that thing..... machine like that’ll eat two fingers for dinner and come begging for seconds.



Yes... I spent many hours running big stamping presses (25 ton to 150 ton) when I was a teenager... I've seen a few fingers and hands get stamped. 

I've still got all my fingers... and plan to keep them.

-Bear


----------



## Papa Charlie

682bear said:


> New projects... it never ends, does it?
> 
> I went today and hauled a bunch of junk home. ...
> 
> And a K&T Milwaukee model H horizontal mill...
> 
> View attachment 335712
> 
> 
> -Bear


Congrats on the finds.
Like the K&T units. I would like to find an affordable 12" x 56" Table Kearney Trecker Horizontal Vertical Metal Milling Machine. The ability to switch from horizontal to vertical is an awesome feature.


----------



## gr8legs

Today's garage sale purchase, a Sanborn air impact driver - not made in China, but made in japan a long time ago. Seems to work just fine.


----------



## addertooth

When you have a mini lathe (7 X 16), it is too easy to get a bit ambitious when you find steel/aluminum/brass stock.  I snagged some bars that were only 12 inches long and thought I had some serious winners.  Then I realized that I needed to drill the center for a part I am making.  (small lathe math, Yep, it is 16 inches from the face of the chuck to the fully retracted quill of the tailstock.  But once you move the quill forward to accept a MT2 drill, you have lost about .75 inch of that space, and then there is the length of the drill itself (even a very stubby MT2 drill is going to be about 5 inches out from the end of the tailstock quill.  So to summarize (the well known fact) A 16 inch lathe might give you about 8 to 10 inches of maximum stock length to work with if you are drilling from the quill.    Sure, If you are Just doing work on the outer diameter, and can remove the tailstock, then you can realize the full glory of the advertised 16 inches .  This is especially true if you have a steady rest with bearings. 

    At this point you need to decide whether hacksawing through a 2" steel bar sounds like fun, or set up the steady rest and prepare to part the steel into a shorter length, or....   Just buy a used Horizontal/vertical band saw.  One of these popped up on the "Facebook market" pages at a not-unreasonable price and I did the half our drive into the countryside to check it out.  It looked quite ignored, but in generally good shape.  It came home with me.  Due to a shortage of people around, I unloaded it myself.  An extension cord was ran, and the offending 2" bar which was too long was cut in half.  My only effort was running a paintbrush with oil over the cutting area every little bit.  It seemed to cut fairly clean, and not-too-far off straight. 

   It sure beat doing it with a hacksaw. It will be used to cut angle iron and square tube stock too (I do a bit of welding as well).  So, it's purchase wasn't entirely for the mini-lathe.  It just happened to first thing which needed cut.


----------



## BGHansen

Some eBay wins over the past several weeks.

Picked up a couple of Huot over/under reamer index boxes for $25 shipped.  I have an import set that came in a wooden block, just looks nicer in the Huot index box.  I'll go through my drawer of reamers and see how complete the second box gets filled.







Won an auction for a number of solid carbide drill bits.  Looks like 75% of them are unused, largest is 1/2".  I'm thinking my Drill Doctor 750 should handle sharpening them as it has a diamond wheel.




Lastly, won a 0-3" set of Enco digital micrometers.  Just me, but I prefer the tumbler style over battery powered.  These were a whopping $40 including shipping.







Thanks for looking,

Bruce


----------



## DavidR8

Picked up a wood and metal bandsaw today. It’s not a beauty Rockwell like @Janderso has but I’ve looking for one for ages. 
It’s a bit dusty and the table has some surface rust but it will clean up well. 
I’m pretty happy. 
3/4 hp 120/220
1725 rpm. 













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## francist

Looks very similar to an old TWS I had. The weak link can be the guides, specifically the upper one, but an older style Rockwell should be a direct replacement should you be able to find one. It made a whole new machine out of my TWS with the better blade guide.

-frank

edit: I think the old Rockwell is the same as the current Delta


----------



## DavidR8

Thanks Frank. 
I was just out futzing around with it and noticed the upper guide is as you say, the weak point. I’ll investigate the Rockwell option, maybe I can find the parts online. 


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----------



## Aukai

Got the Rhom changeable point live center in a nice box off of Ebay recently, never needed one before, but have used it 3 times since getting it.


----------



## hman

DavidR8 said:


> Picked up a wood and metal bandsaw today.


OK!  And here's your first project.  Purchase a couple of 30mm Magswitches, mount them to a board, and you have an instant easy-to-move (and easy to store) fence.  The Magswitches do a really fantastic job of anchoring the fence to the table!  If you're concerned with having it square to the table, you can add an aluminum guide plate to one end (45h photo).  I generally don't use this, just eyeball the fence somewhere near to parallel with the blade.


----------



## gr8legs

Someone on a thread here talked about how to remove / install roll pins (spring pins) and mentioned a punch designed for the task.

Those darn pins are a major aggravation so I acquired a set of punches - looks like they should work fine for the job.


----------



## DavidR8

hman said:


> OK! And here's your first project. Purchase a couple of 30mm Magswitches, mount them to a board, and you have an instant easy-to-move (and easy to store) fence. The Magswitches do a really fantastic job of anchoring the fence to the table! If you're concerned with having it square to the table, you can add an aluminum guide plate to one end (45h photo). I generally don't use this, just eyeball the fence somewhere near to parallel with the blade.
> View attachment 336110
> 
> View attachment 336111
> 
> View attachment 336112
> 
> View attachment 336113



Thanks, I’ve never heard of Magswitches. Thanks for the tip!


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## DavidR8

gr8legs said:


> Someone on a thread here talked about how to remove / install roll pins (spring pins) and mentioned a punch designed for the task.
> 
> Those darn pins are a major aggravation so I acquired a set of punches - looks like they should work fine for the job.
> 
> View attachment 336118
> View attachment 336117



Ok those are very clever! 


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## Superburban

gr8legs said:


> Someone on a thread here talked about how to remove / install roll pins (spring pins) and mentioned a punch designed for the task.
> 
> Those darn pins are a major aggravation so I acquired a set of punches - looks like they should work fine for the job.
> 
> View attachment 336118
> View attachment 336117


Yes, those are great. Back about mid spring, I went to remove a roll pin in my trucks steering shaft. Had a heck of a time, even with the punch, someone long ago tried to remove it with a nail, which went inside the roll pin, broke off, and rusted quite nicely.


----------



## Superburban

I stopped by a thrift/antique / whatever shop today, and these two tools just screamed at me to purchase and save them. The first is a Starrett cylinder gauge, Probably will not see use, but when cleaned up, it will look good on my misc interesting tool shelf. The second is a cherry rivet tool, with all the attachments. Cherry rivets are similar to pop rivets, but they have a head on the pull stud. The silver attachment in the corner is a right angle adapter. and the black pieces along the side are different size heads. When I feel like doing some wood work, I will fix up the box, and it will also sit on a display shelf. The last pic with the rivets, the one on the top is already expanded. Got both for $10.


----------



## NCjeeper

Nice score for 10 bucks.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stop by the tool/flea market, i'm a bit short on head tools, i've been breaking them. First thing i bought was this T handle with 8 sockets 1/2 drive 5$. Then i've seen this bar metre, it has 2 units inside, new never used 0,8$. Then i found and bought me a spare inner tire for the trailer 2$. Then i found security nuts for the little niva, it's missing its key i'll have to make one also 2$. Then last not least bought me a socket set, it isn't anything special china or india made 30$. Not bad for pendemic time.


----------



## Lonnie

Actually bought this for expanding the wives business but damn, it sure is gonna come in handy for marking things in the shop!
30 watt JPT fiber laser with rotary attachment (not in pic)!


----------



## Aukai

A steel 4 jaw chuck D1-4 mount


----------



## tjb

Aukai said:


> A steel 4 jaw chuck D1-4 mount
> View attachment 336221


Where'd you find that?  I'm about to start looking for a good quality 4-jaw/D1-4.

Regards,
Terry


----------



## Aukai

Ebay, I was just on Ebay UK, and they have listings for the Pratt Burnerd 4 jaws as well. A birdy told me to look for steel, made in UK as a good chuck


----------



## tjb

Aukai said:


> Ebay, I was just on Ebay UK, and they have listings for the Pratt Burnerd 4 jaws as well. A birdy told me to look for steel, made in UK as a good chuck


Think that Birdy might know where any more might be?


----------



## DavidR8

Bought the manual for my Honda NT650 resto project. 







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## Dhal22

DavidR8 said:


> Thanks, I’ve never heard of Magswitches. Thanks for the tip!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Same.


----------



## DavidR8

Just bid on a local auction for an 18" x 18" cast iron surface plate made by The Challenger Machinery Company out of Grand Haven Mich.
Finger crossed!!!


----------



## WobblyHand

The mailman delivered two little packages today.  A 1-1/4" annular cutter, and a 6" 0.02mm/m level.  I was expecting the cutter.  The level was a bonus!  It was a heavy little package for it's size.  Understandable, since is mostly iron.
Here they are together...


I knew my desk was out of plumb, but wow.  The directions with the level were utterly worthless.  The stick figure diagram was confusing and horrible.  I found a video on YouTube (in Chinese) that had English subtitles that gave me a clue what to do. Adjusting level  That's tomorrows project.  Let's see if I can calibrate it.


----------



## alloy

Well after figuring out that my spindle turns backwards and that you can't have a G00 on an X-Y positioning move after a tool change, but you can have one in retracting the tool to home position. So I finally got a part made.  It's simple, but took a lot to get there.


----------



## extropic

WobblyHand said:


> The mailman delivered two little packages today.  A 1-1/4" annular cutter, and a 6" 0.02mm/m level.  I was expecting the cutter.  The level was a bonus!  It was a heavy little package for it's size.  Understandable, since is mostly iron.
> Here they are together...
> View attachment 336301
> 
> I knew my desk was out of plumb, but wow.  The directions with the level were utterly worthless.  The stick figure diagram was confusing and horrible.  I found a video on YouTube (in Chinese) that had English subtitles that gave me a clue what to do. Adjusting level  That's tomorrows project.  Let's see if I can calibrate it.



I have two of the same type Chinese levels. I wouldn't comment except you mention adjusting yours.
I have two because the first one was delivered with the small vile broken.  It was broken by contact between the two vials, probably during assembly/adjustment at the manufacturer. Anyway, adjustment may be the kiss of death, so be cautious.
I have opened up both of my samples to investigate the guts and have relegated both to the get-around-to-it project list. Like many (most?) items from their origin, you're best considering them a parts kit with some modification and tuning required. On the other hand, if it works OK right out of the box, consider yourself lucky and leave well enough alone.


----------



## Aukai

This is why my lathe is almost too short when drilling out an 18" bat, this came today, it will give me a .312 wall thickness. It should make the bat lighter but still durable


----------



## darkzero

3" lathe dog. I thought I bought the whole set but I guess back then I thought I would never need the 3". Well I haven't needed to turn anything larger than 2" between centers yet but ya never know.






Imperial tap guide to finally complete my set.




OEM Toyota hammers made by OH Industrial Japan. They shipped from Japan yesterday & were due to arrive next Wed but they showed up today.


----------



## Aaron_W

I've been working 12-16 hours days for the past several weeks so I decided to treat myself, and take advantage of Glacern's summer sale. Got myself a GS-440 4" vise, $200 off with free shipping. This will be a better fit on my mill than the current 5" vise. I'll hang onto the 5" for occasional large work, but it takes a good chunk from my Y travel for regular use.

It may be quite a while until I'm home to see the new vise so no pics until then.


----------



## DavidR8

Picked up a set of Victor 350 torches and regs. 






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----------



## Gaffer

Congrats on the torches and regs! I know you've been looking for an OA setup.


----------



## DavidR8

Gaffer said:


> Congrats on the torches and regs! I know you've been looking for an OA setup.



I’m pretty darn pleased. 
I’ve got $400 into the torches, Oxy tank and new hoses. Already have a propane tank 
Much better deal than $400 rig I was looking at before. 


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## brino

Aaron_W said:


> I've been working 12-16 hours days for the past several weeks so I decided to treat myself, and take advantage of Glacern's summer sale. Got myself a GS-440 4" vise, $200 off with free shipping. This will be a better fit on my mill than the current 5" vise. I'll hang onto the 5" for occasional large work, but it takes a good chunk from my Y travel for regular use.
> 
> It may be quite a while until I'm home to see the new vise so no pics until then.



Well earned Aaron!
-brino


----------



## Saguaro Slim

Good score on torch set, the rosebud will be handy!


----------



## brino

darkzero said:


> Imperial tap guide to finally complete my set.



So it is NOT just a Knipex problem then..........
You got it bad!



darkzero said:


> They shipped from Japan yesterday & were due to arrive next Wed but they showed up today.



How is that possible?
I order from 300km away, but in my own country, and don't expect it until late next week.

-brino


----------



## darkzero

brino said:


> How is that possible?
> I order from 300km away, but in my own country, and don't expect it until late next week.



Seriously, I know right! I wasn't in rush to get these but since Japan Post still hasn't resumed service to the US I had no choice but to choose DHL. Even if Japan Post was shipping to the US, with our current USPS problems I still probably would have chose DHL.

DHL has always given me exceptionally fast service & their prices are very reasonable. This is the second DHL shipment I have had during the pandemic & the last one delivered fast too from Canada. Although this DHL shipment was shockingly faster! Last night the package had barely cleared customs in Ohio so I was very surprised when I got the email notification this morning saying that it was out for delivery today.


----------



## Kiwi Canuck

I bought a compressor today off Craigslist.

Came out of a business, so unknown hours, but looks well looked after, showed service stickers going back to 2012.

5HP Baldor 3 Phase Motor, 80 Gallon Tank, 2 Stage Pump.

Heavy beggar to load onto the trailer with my engine hoist, but was able to borrow a neighbours excavator to lift it off the trailer and then use another neighbours forklift to move it into my shop, all up about 685lbs.

No pictures of the loading/unloading unfortunately, too focused on the task at hand.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought the two items below which will be used for getting a workpiece centered in a 4J chuck:


----------



## pontiac428

Not a purchase, but a package from my Dad.  I knew the tram kit was in there, but the insert tools were a big surprise!  And a few big twist drills for making big holes.  They should be nice for starting out boring jobs on the lathe.  Anyway, not a bad haul to find on my porch today! Thanks, Dad!


----------



## Aukai

Nice score!


----------



## DavidR8

Picked up a Starrett 436 mic. 
Immaculate condition. 







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----------



## hman

Definitely immaculate - like it's never even been used!


----------



## JRaut

DavidR8 said:


> Picked up a Starrett 436 mic.


The barrel is marked Great Britain, never seen that before. I've only ever seen Athol.

Nice find!


----------



## Nogoingback

Notice the paperwork says Scotland.  I seem to remember that Starrett had a Scottish factory.  
Nice score David.


----------



## DavidR8

hman said:


> Definitely immaculate - like it's never even been used!





JRaut said:


> The barrel is marked Great Britain, never seen that before. I've only ever seen Athol.
> 
> Nice find!





Nogoingback said:


> Notice the paperwork says Scotland.  I seem to remember that Starrett had a Scottish factory.
> Nice score David.


Wow, I didn't even notice that it was from England when I bought it... just knew it was super-clean!

Edit: my partner thought it was hilarious that we have a thread about what we bought today...


----------



## BGHansen

Couple of eBay purchases, Tormach/Shars and Menards.


Bought some 1/4" 120 deg. carbide spotting drills for my Tormach.  Did a dumb thing and ran a spotting drill -0.5 instead of +0.5 into an aluminum fixture.  Things happen pretty quickly at 90 ipm.



Spontaneous tool buy off eBay:  Dewalt sheet metal shear rated at 14 gauge (confirmed it cuts 16 gauge with no issues).  $40 delivered




Bought a couple of 1/2" and 1/4" capacity chucks from Shars and the appropriate TTS tool holders from Tormach.  Think I'm up to 9 or 10 tool holders with drill chucks as I dislike having to continually change drill bits and the offset table for various jobs.  Changed drill bits from a 0.25" in a tool to a 3/16", but then ran the 1/4" job and wondered why the holes were so small. . .




Yeah baby!  No more rubbing my hands together if working in the shop in the winter!  My shop is 40' x 32' x 10', heater is 125,000 BTU rated at 3000 square feed (albeit, most likely expecting an 8' ceiling).  So I'm at about 2X capacity.  It's an overhead unit which will probably be loud as heck, but beats listening to my teeth chattering!  Still waiting on the exhaust vent, and need to have an additional propane tank set.




Thanks for looking,

Bruce


----------



## BROCKWOOD

Latest purchase.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Kiwi Canuck said:


> I bought a compressor today off Craigslist.
> 
> Came out of a business, so unknown hours, but looks well looked after, showed service stickers going back to 2012.
> 
> 5HP Baldor 3 Phase Motor, 80 Gallon Tank, 2 Stage Pump.
> 
> Heavy beggar to load onto the trailer with my engine hoist, but was able to borrow a neighbours excavator to lift it off the trailer and then use another neighbours forklift to move it into my shop, all up about 685lbs.
> 
> No pictures of the loading/unloading unfortunately, too focused on the task at hand.
> 
> 
> View attachment 336615
> View attachment 336616




Nice find, I am looking for a 3.5-5.0HP, two stage pump, 30-60 gallon tank compressor. Haven't seen much in a good price anywhere around me. Almost thinking of just buying a new one at Lowes. I can get the Kobalt 3.5HP, two stage with 60 gallon tank for around $589. Would like to find something cheaper but also thinking about the potential for problems with used.
Have my eyes open. In no hurry.


----------



## matthewsx

Bought three A1 semi finished chuck adapters from Canada. Not exactly what my lathe uses but the taper is the same and the holes line up so I figure I can modify them to work. Hefty piece of iron for $100/ea.




John


----------



## DavidR8

matthewsx said:


> Bought three A1 semi finished chuck adapters from Canada. Not exactly what my lathe uses but the taper is the same and the holes line up so I figure I can modify them to work. Hefty piece of iron for $100/ea.
> 
> View attachment 336981
> 
> 
> John



Who was the retailler John?


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----------



## matthewsx

DavidR8 said:


> Who was the retailler John?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



JSR & Father Industrial out of Perth, Ontario

EBay seller id: jrwoodca


----------



## Tim9

matthewsx said:


> JSR & Father Industrial out of Perth, Ontario
> 
> EBay seller id: jrwoodca


I’ve purchased a lot of really nice tools from JSR & Father out of Canada. They are a first rate EBay seller in my opinion. Top quality tools at a fair price with very good service. I really like the old Everede boring bars. I think I purchased about 5 different sizes from them and a bunch of the HSS inserts. It’s an obsolete bar these days with an odd ball insert... so I scrounged all over EBay until I finally have about 10 inserts for each.  So I am okay now.
I do really use carbide for general work, but for some oddball stuff I encounter, I pull out my Everede because HSS does give a better finish in my opinion on many jobs.


----------



## matthewsx

Yes, when I opened the box they were packed with extra cardboard and thick insulating foam sheet cut to fit exactly. That's the kind of thing that lets me know they do things right. I'm happy and won't hesitate to buy from them again.

Quick turn around too, 1 week from Canada

John


----------



## Tim9

I found this chuck on EBay. When I saw it, I instantly knew what it was. It’s another oddball. And I think some machinists just would prefer to use a 4 jaw. But, I wanted to give it a shot.
It’s a Rohm 3-jaw scroll lathe chuck with adjustable jaws. It’s like an Adjust-Tru.....but it’s. Three jaw. And a little different design since there’s a 1/4” Allen adjustmen screw integral to the jaw. The jaws are reversible. 
Rohm 3-jaw self centering 8” lathe chuck- 1800.00


----------



## Tim9

I took it apart because it was really tight. There was absolutely no swarf in it but the grease was gummed up. Someone put white lithium in it without removing the other clear grease. And yes... Rohm is very specific... this chuck should be greased. Not oil. Grease, so I used wheel bearing grease. 
The cost on EBay was 225.00 + 36.00 shipping. This chuck is like brand new. The jaws and scroll and adjusting screws for the jaws are like brand new. They are so damned precisionly machined that the fit is within a half thousandths on the jaws to the steel body.


----------



## Aukai

It's a keeper, and a score 
and


----------



## 682bear

Tim9 said:


> I found this chuck on EBay. When I saw it, I instantly knew what it was. It’s another oddball. And I think some machinists just would prefer to use a 4 jaw. But, I wanted to give it a shot.
> It’s a Rohm 3-jaw scroll lathe chuck with adjustable jaws. It’s like an Adjust-Tru.....but it’s. Three jaw. And a little different design since there’s a 1/4” Allen adjustmen screw integral to the jaw. The jaws are reversible.
> Rohm 3-jaw self centering 8” lathe chuck- 1800.00



I have a 9" Rohm just like that on my SB 14 ½...

It's my favorite chuck... it takes some figuring to center a part with 3 adjustable jaws the first few times you use it, but once you get used to it, it is quick and easy. I can get a part centered within a half thousandth in less than a minute now. I really like it... it's a lot easier than a 4 jaw.

-Bear


----------



## brino

matthewsx said:


> JSR & Father Industrial out of Perth, Ontario
> 
> EBay seller id: jrwoodca



Hey that's the online store for my local new/used tool place!
I'm very lucky because I can wander thru the store every weekend.

It is a small but great family run business.

Likely half my workshop comes from them; my Southbend 9", oodles of tooling, files, Darex-E90, tool boxes, micrometers, calipers, Brown-Boggs shear, Chicago brake, drill bits, storage cabinets, etc., etc.

I am also a very happy customer.

-brino


----------



## DavidR8

I picked up a set of taps and dies this morning... and tomorrow I'm returning to the same seller to pick up a Kennedy toolbox. Packed full of tools.
I'd never seen one before but as soon as I saw the colour I thought it was a Kennedy, The nameplate confirmed it.
No pic yet but I will when I pick it up.


----------



## pontiac428

DavidR8 said:


> I picked up a set of taps and dies this morning...


And...?  Do tell...


----------



## DavidR8

pontiac428 said:


> And...? Do tell...



Nothing to write home about really. 















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## darkzero

pontiac428 said:


> And...?  Do tell...





DavidR8 said:


> Nothing to write home about really.



Yeah, you can't just mention a tool acquisition here & leave us hanging!


----------



## DavidR8

darkzero said:


> Yeah, you can't just mention a tool acquisition here & leave us hanging!





pontiac428 said:


> And...?  Do tell...


Sorry gents!


----------



## pontiac428

My wife won't allow packages with my name on it to show up under threat of blowing my kneecaps out with a revolver.  So I gotta get my fix off of your bargains.  Those Butterfield dies are really nice, and OSG makes good taps.  Looks like a grab bag, but it all looks useful!


----------



## darkzero

DavidR8 said:


> Sorry gents!


----------



## DavidR8

pontiac428 said:


> My wife won't allow packages with my name on it to show up under threat of blowing my kneecaps out with a revolver.  So I gotta get my fix off of your bargains.  Those Butterfield dies are really nice, and OSG makes good taps.  Looks like a grab bag, but it all looks useful!


I hear you, as I was welding my bandsaw stand my partner commented to a neighbour that I was building tools to build tools that build tools....


----------



## DavidR8

Ok here’s the Kennedy box.










13 reamers on the right side


----------



## darkzero

Wow, tomorrow came quick! Or did your tools that build tools build a time machine?


----------



## DavidR8

darkzero said:


> Wow, tomorrow came quick! Oh did your tools that build tools build a time machine?


I had a break between meetings so popped out


----------



## darkzero

DavidR8 said:


> I had a break between meetings so popped out



I would have done the same!


----------



## francist

DavidR8 said:


> Ok here’s the Kennedy box.


Hey David, I assume the box is local? Do you know if the “A. Ramsay” on the front panel is connected to the Ramsay of Ramsay Machine Works? They go wayyy back in this town — I have the family and related company history at my work so not in front of me right now to check. Would be cool if it was, lot of history there. If I recall correctly, the old man lost his arm to a lathe accident at Albion Iron I think.

-frank


----------



## DavidR8

It is a local purchase. 
I’m asking them now. Real nice folks. It’s her husband’s dad’s box. 
It’s an interesting experience to sort through stuff like this as it represents someone’s life. 
I’m super respectful of this kind of thing. 


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----------



## DavidR8

DavidR8 said:


> It is a local purchase.
> I’m asking them now. Real nice folks. It’s her husband’s dad’s box.
> It’s an interesting experience to sort through stuff like this as it represents someone’s life.
> I’m super respectful of this kind of thing.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



As it turns out not. It’s actually “Ramsary” in Scots which transliterates to “Ramsay” for us. 


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----------



## darkzero

Thanks to MrWhoopee, finally got me a Holdridge Radii Cutter. Been wanting one of these for a long time but could never afford them or missed out (looking off & on). I won't see it till Thanksgiving, Christmas, or Feb (Feb cause I just found out I'm gonna be an uncle). My lilttle brother picked it up for me up north. I don't want to risk having him ship it.

I was in contact with the seller who was supposed to get back to me on Sunday. Well on Sunday the CL ad was deleted & I never heard back from the seller. So I thought for sure I missed this one too. I was so surprised when the seller got back to me this morning! I'm soooo happy right now!


----------



## DavidR8

Congratulations on becoming an uncle Will!
Oh the Radius tool is pretty cool too 


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----------



## darkzero

Thank you very much David!


----------



## vocatexas

I've bought a few tool boxes at auctions and estate sales. Like you said, it's interesting to sort through, but a bit eery at the same time.


----------



## DavidR8

Here’s a sample of the tap and die tools in the box. 







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----------



## hman

DavidR8 said:


> my partner commented to a neighbour that I was building tools to build tools that build tools....


But isn't that what machining is all about???


----------



## darkzero

hman said:


> But isn't that what machining is all about???



Which leads to the ultimate unaswered question, what did they use to make the first lathe or mill? Well of course there are answers but I rather not know & forever wonder.


----------



## francist

DavidR8 said:


> As it turns out not.


Oh well, was a good thought while it lasted although I don’t know that my heart can take another blast of adrenalin for a while yet


----------



## DavidR8

darkzero said:


> Which leads to the ultimate unaswered question, what did they use to make the first lathe or mill? Well of course there are answers but I rather not know & forever wonder.



Interesting idea isn’t it?
If you’re interested I read a fascinating book called “Island of the Lost”. 
It’s based on true events of two ships that wreck on Auckland Island. The crews have completely different experiences. One crew flourishes while the other struggles. 
The one that flourishes built a forge 
Highly recommended reading!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hman

darkzero said:


> Which leads to the ultimate unaswered question, what did they use to make the first lathe or mill? Well of course there are answers but I rather not know & forever wonder.


The story starts out: "A long time ago, in a universe far, far away ..."


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> Oh well, was a good thought while it lasted although I don’t know that my heart can take another blast of adrenalin for a while yet



I kinda wish it was connected. Still, I’d like to know the story. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## matthewsx

With my tight space I thought it would be good to buy leveling casters so I can move the Bolton 13x40 back and forth from the wall. I ordered these from Toolots, the Bolton dealer, 4 of them for $64.











Now to figure out how to attach them....

John


----------



## DavidR8

matthewsx said:


> With my tight space I thought it would be good to buy leveling casters so I can move the Bolton 13x40 back and forth from the wall. I ordered these from Toolots, the Bolton dealer, 4 of them for $64.
> 
> 
> View attachment 337157
> 
> 
> View attachment 337158
> 
> 
> View attachment 337159
> 
> 
> Now to figure out how to attach them....
> 
> John



Nice units, good price too. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Aukai

Hey David, I think you did good on your Kennedy, check this out, and the price








						Vintage Tools Precision Machinist Tools Mixed Lot (3)  | eBay
					

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Vintage Tools Precision Machinist Tools Mixed Lot (3) at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



					www.ebay.com


----------



## DavidR8

Aukai said:


> Hey David, I think you did good on your Kennedy, check this out, and the price
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Vintage Tools Precision Machinist Tools Mixed Lot (3)  | eBay
> 
> 
> Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Vintage Tools Precision Machinist Tools Mixed Lot (3) at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com


That's ridiculous!
I gotta say that I'm really impressed by the box. I'd say it's around 90 lbs loaded up.


----------



## devils4ever

Shars 12" Caliper.

I needed a larger caliper to compliment my 6" HF and 8" Mitutoyo caliper. My 6" HF caliper is used the most and is starting to show some wear. Still seems accurate and can't beat the under $20 price. The jaws are loosening a bit.

Then, there's my 8" Mitutoyo which is kept in the box except when needed. Silky smooth and a joy to use. I wish it had an auto shutoff.

So, I struggled when deciding with which 12" caliper to go with. I looked at Starrett, Mitutoyo, Fowler, SPI, B&S, etc. Prices were crazy. After reading many positive things about Shars, I decided to go for it. It is REALLY nice and smooth, seems very accurate, and well worth the under $80 price. I'm not sure how it will stand up over time, but I'm very pleased so far. I might even replace my HF 6" caliper with a Shars when it dies.


----------



## Tim9

682bear said:


> I have a 9" Rohm just like that on my SB 14 ½...
> 
> It's my favorite chuck... it takes some figuring to center a part with 3 adjustable jaws the first few times you use it, but once you get used to it, it is quick and easy. I can get a part centered within a half thousandth in less than a minute now. I really like it... it's a lot easier than a 4 jaw.
> 
> -Bear


Bear, I’m curious as to your method. I’ve given it some thought and in my mid.... I’m thinking that the way to go about centering with 3 jaws.... is with dial indicator mounted....to focus attention only on the low point. And then adjust that jaw since the high points will always be midway between the other two jaws. Does that make sense. Am I on the right track ?
   Anyway I’m not there yet since I can’t mount the chuck to my other find.... Bison Backing Plate...  for 8” chuck and with a L-00 taper. I need to go to hardware for 7/16”x14tpi socket head bolts. 
Anyway...between the Rohm chuck and Bison backing plate.... I feel like I have a horse shoe up my butt, finding this and the chuck on EBay at the same time. The backing plate was “ accepting Offers. “
got it for 115.00 plus 21.00 shipping.


----------



## 682bear

Tim9 said:


> Bear, I’m curious as to your method. I’ve given it some thought and in my mid.... I’m thinking that the way to go about centering with 3 jaws.... is with dial indicator mounted....to focus attention only on the low point. And then adjust that jaw since the high points will always be midway between the other two jaws. Does that make sense. Am I on the right track ?
> Anyway I’m not there yet since I can’t mount the chuck to my other find.... Bison Backing Plate...  for 8” chuck and with a L-00 taper. I need to go to hardware for 7/16”x14tpi socket head bolts.
> Anyway...between the Rohm chuck and Bison backing plate.... I feel like I have a horse shoe up my butt, finding this and the chuck on EBay at the same time. The backing plate was “ accepting Offers. “
> got it for 115.00 plus 21.00 shipping.



Tim, I just did a writeup on this and posted it in the 'General Discussions' area... I didn't want to hijack this thread, and I thought making a seperate thread sould make it easier to find if someone needs it in the future... 

Check it out... I hope it helps.

-Bear


----------



## middle.road

OK, so repair the A/C on the truck are go auction stoopid?
'Truck Repair Fund' ended up getting raided.
Local Gent passed away. I was going to not look over the catalog, but I did.
No machines to speak of except for a Baldor carbide grinder, a BA 3PH grinder, and a Gorton Pantograph.
But man did he have the tools and goodies.
I scored several lots including his two 'chests' one is a 12-drawer Craftsman the other a large 10-drawer Machinist's chest.
As mentioned above, always eerie going through these. 
There's a old picture in the lid of a young Sargent and his wife I'm assuming.
Both pieces are chocked full of tools and tooling. I managed to roll the (12) drawer over my bum foot while loading.
Those two plus the other (21) lots I won are going to take awhile to sort out and stash.
Picts to come, need to reduce them first.







Oh and I scored another C.E. Johansson set




Stay tuned for more. . .


----------



## rwm

Foot shear!


----------



## Aukai

Nice


----------



## Papa Charlie

darkzero said:


> Thanks to MrWhoopee, finally got me a Holdridge Radii Cutter. Been wanting one of these for a long time but could never afford them or missed out (looking off & on). I won't see it till Thanksgiving, Christmas, or Feb (Feb cause I just found out I'm gonna be an uncle). My lilttle brother picked it up for me up north. I don't want to risk having him ship it.
> 
> I was in contact with the seller who was supposed to get back to me on Sunday. Well on Sunday the CL ad was deleted & I never heard back from the seller. So I thought for sure I missed this one too. I was so surprised when the seller got back to me this morning! I'm soooo happy right now!
> 
> View attachment 337137
> View attachment 337138
> View attachment 337139
> View attachment 337142
> View attachment 337143
> View attachment 337144
> View attachment 337145



I saw one of those on our CL up here around Seattle. You indicated "from up north", would that be in the Seattle area?


----------



## DavidR8

And a mighty nice Unisaw @rwm!


----------



## Papa Charlie

middle.road said:


> OK, so repair the A/C on the truck are go auction stoopid?
> 'Truck Repair Fund' ended up getting raided.
> Local Gent passed away. I was going to not look over the catalog, but I did.
> No machines to speak of except for a Baldor carbide grinder, a BA 3PH grinder, and a Gorton Pantograph.
> But man did he have the tools and goodies.
> I scored several lots including his two 'chests' one is a 12-drawer Craftsman the other a large 10-drawer Machinist's chest.
> As mentioned above, always eerie going through these.
> There's a old picture in the lid of a young Sargent and his wife I'm assuming.
> Both pieces are chocked full of tools and tooling. I managed to roll the (12) drawer over my bum foot while loading.
> Those two plus the other (21) lots I won are going to take awhile to sort out and stash.
> Picts to come, need to reduce them first.
> 
> 
> View attachment 337262
> 
> View attachment 337263
> 
> 
> Oh and I scored another C.E. Johansson set
> 
> View attachment 337264
> 
> 
> Stay tuned for more. . .



So what is a CE Johansson Set? I mean I know who is was, but not sure what this does.


----------



## darkzero

Papa Charlie said:


> I saw one of those on our CL up here around Seattle. You indicated "from up north", would that be in the Seattle area?



It was in the bay area. 









						Lathe Radius Cutter - $200 (san leandro, CA)
					

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/d/san-leandro-lathe-radius-cutter/7195109005.html




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## middle.road

Papa Charlie said:


> So what is a CE Johansson Set? I mean I know who is was, but not sure what this does.


A month after I bought my 'first' set, Keith Rucker posted this on youtube...  
Then I had some idea of how it was used...


----------



## carlquib

middle.road said:


> Oh and I scored another C.E. Johansson set
> 
> View attachment 337264
> 
> 
> Stay tuned for more. . .



Wow! I have been looking for one of those for a while. They are either stupid expensive or rusted to the point that I don't want to even chance dragging them home. 

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk


----------



## middle.road

So, since around 5:30 I've been lucky enough to putz around in the shop going through the drawers and a couple of the MISC lots.
I got 'stoopid' lucky with this auction. This is akin to an adult Christmas morning...


Spoiler: For the 12-Drawer, CLICK here....



From the bottom up... (I had some problems with keeping the 'smart' phone oriented... 





That's an Albrecht in the front, an Enco in the rear...
Drill Indexes are in very good shape. One is a Hout Metric complete and not chowdered.



Just what I need, some more parallels... 
(4) nice mill clamps and then a bunch of dies. And some end mills.


	

		
			
		

		
	
.....
	

		
			
		

		
	




More dies, miscellany, and a SG dressing jig.



More miscellany, and some gems.



A bunch of decent cutting tools. Some of the end mills are chowdered, but most are unused.
(2) high rake insert holders with a lifetime supply of inserts. 



AN oddball drawer. Note the *empty* Mitu DTI container. 
A 3-4" Old time Starrett Mic., a set of diamond files and a cool jack. 
A decent indicator holder for the BP mill.


	

		
			
		

		
	
.....
	

		
			
		

		
	




More miscellany. 
The yellow container in the center paid for this lot. It's a Kennametal 3/4" end mill with plenty of inserts. 
My jaw dropped when I opened it.



Neat ratching tap handle. a 25/64" 5c collet (?!!), a broken pair of cheesy pliers (?).
Bunch of drills (obviously)





Onto the Machinist's Chest
It's grown on me the last day, despite being so rusty on the exterior. The felt in the drawers is still good so I'm thinking of knocking the rust off and applying some clear coating on it and keeping it.


Spoiler: Machinist's Chest contents - CLICK here....



No particular order this time...





Top of the chest, a bunch of nice goodies. Items that will be going into my inventory.
Found a 18" Starrett scale tucked in the back that is going to need some TLC.



Top two drawers, cool bits in the red boxes.



A 'Ford' C.E. Johanasson gage block, nice tap handle. A B&S square that also needs some TLC.



I've been wanting some HSS toolbits... 



The 'Gem' drawer. A bunch of DTIs. One Interrapid .0005 and a Federal .0001, + the others.



I won't be needing any center drills for this lifetime. There's a bunch of extra long ones in the lots.


More nice cutting stuff...


and yet more....


and some more....


	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	



Another Jack, some unused end mills.


	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	




Some of the items out of the top.


	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
...
	

		
			
		

		
	




And amongst all that I pulled out (4) carbide shank boring bars that were buried. 
(have to start another post for that, I've exceeded the allowed max of (30) picts. )


----------



## matthewsx

Wow, a lifetimes worth....


----------



## FOMOGO

Christmas indeed. Very cool, and a little spooky. Cheers, Mike


----------



## hman

Dan -

That's a real big YEEEEEE-HAAAAA! You've definitely achieved suckage!!!!


----------



## Papa Charlie

middle.road said:


> A month after I bought my 'first' set, Keith Rucker posted this on youtube...
> Then I had some idea of how it was used...



Thanks very much. Will have to keep my eyes peeled for one of these. Would be a real nice accessory for my gauge blocks.


----------



## alloy

My CNC department.


----------



## middle.road

alloy said:


> My CNC department.


Looks like some real work going on there for sure.


----------



## alloy

middle.road said:


> Looks like some real work going on there for sure.



Thanks.

I'm making parts for my transmission conversions.  I'm finding the lathe runs the parts so much faster than the mill does when I have a operation that can be transferred to the lathe.  One op went from 12:20 minutes on the mill to 2:55 on the lathe.  The finish is wonderful compared to profiling with and end mill.

So far I'm programming the lathe by hand.  Making a few mistakes, but so far nothing major.  I've given up on figuring out the Fanuc roughing commands for now and doing it line by line.   But it works


----------



## mmcmdl

Alloy , I have the Fanuc programming books at home but I'm away until next Wed .


----------



## mmcmdl

You had the g71 program on the the other thread correct . After your P, Q U W F line , just program the final dimensions of the part . I always started .100 off the Z and .050 above the X diameter . You need to start outside your final profile in the canned cycle or when it's complete , you'll rapid thru your part !


----------



## alloy

mmcmdl said:


> Alloy , I have the Fanuc programming books at home but I'm away until next Wed .



Thanks again.  Until I get the books I'll plod along like I am.   Enjoy your time away.  No hurry.

I'm learning the hard way how bad a typinst I am  And a O is not a zero and the control tells me that, a lot.  

Sucks the O and zero are so close on my keyboard.


----------



## mmcmdl

alloy said:


> typinst



LOL . Watch the G0s . Not fun trueing up the turret .  Start the profile code outside the profile  with a X0 , then a Z0 and you'll be safe !


----------



## middle.road

alloy said:


> Thanks again.  Until I get the books I'll plod along like I am.   Enjoy your time away.  No hurry.
> 
> I'm learning the hard way how bad a typinst I am  And a O is not a zero and the control tells me that, a lot.
> 
> Sucks the O and zero are so close on my keyboard.


Are you programming on a PC and then uploading or doing it at the COntrol Panel?
If you're doing it on the PC you could load the code in a good text editor and search on 'O's ...
It can 'spell' check a g0 versus a go so to speak.
I like this one whenever I've coded anything:





						Downloads | Notepad++
					






					notepad-plus-plus.org
				



Highly customizable to suit the task at hand.
It can even be color coded to show an 'O' from a '0'.


----------



## alloy

middle.road said:


> Are you programming on a PC and then uploading or doing it at the Control Panel?



Yes just using a standard version of notepad.  Or an old version of mastercam.  It has a numbering feature.  I find the line numbers very helpful at this point.

I downloaded the notepad ++  Haven't figured it out yet.  Searching for O's would be helpful. 

But I'm getting it.  I've done all the easy stuff I have to do, now comes the 7 and 9 start thread on a speedometer gear.  I need to make a threading gauge for it also.  I've ground some cemented carbide tools up for it.  Hopefully I can prove the concept up making them with those tools.

After I think I'm going to take a box of inserts to a tool grinding shop and have some double ended inserts ground up to match the profile of the thread on the gears.  it's a 36 deg included angle.


----------



## vtcnc

Fusion 360. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ACHiPo

A couple brand spankin' new Mitutoyo mics, 0-1 and 1-2.


----------



## middle.road

If this doesn't get me beat up after school - nothing will.  
Picts of all the lots I scored and the two I missed out on. 



Spoiler: Pictures of the Lot(s) --- CLICK Here...



This was a 'Junque' lot.... Items on the floor NOT included . . .  Gave the tables away.


But this was, a Kennedy 5 drawer (...not the stuff on top) (it was added after the catalog was posted) :



Aloris CXA. (4) std. holders plus a generic parting tool holder and two BXAs, one an Aloris '#8' with extra bits.
This pict is what was posted in the catalog. 


This is what was in the Lot:




Misc Lot. -- (3) Albrechts, and a Jacobs 18N, two shell mills for the BP and a bunch of inserts.



This lot was a surprise. I was wanting the 2" travel Starrett on the right, I busted mine up years ago.
Then there is a large dial Federal .0001 bore gage, plus the Ames .0001 in the box and the 'others'.
And then there's the odd black rod that I didn't pay any attention to. Turns out it's a drawbar, which just happens to fit my BP.
I've actually been needing to get one, and that alone paid for the lot.



Yet more parallels... (time to unload some.)
The gage blocks in the wooden holder are really cool.
They are stamped 'LITEDIE' and they are fractional. Only (3) pcs missing.


	

		
			
		

		
	
.......
	

		
			
		

		
	




THE Machinist's Chest Lot.



Yuasa indexer. I was after the Sine plate underneath. Haven't even examined this lot yet.



Brown & Sharpe #255 Mag Block. 



Mitutoyo 'Hole' Square Gage Block set. Missing the small blocks and the 1/2" is not OEM.
Didn't realize the difference between a standard type set and a square block set until this week. 
Was shocked when I looked up the price of them.



The Johansson.  



Pratt & Whitney 'Hole' Square gage block set. Date on the tag is '1958' 
Front row is not OEM. Almost complete.



Diamond wheels. Appear to be unused but I haven't examined them closely - yet.



More Diamond wheels - Used, three of them have arbors on them.



A CSE 21.5"(?!) height gage Made in Germany. 
Didn't need another but noone else bid on it.



Large Dial 2" travel Federal. .001"



Federal .0001 DTI, missing the crystal. 



Box lot of Misc. 
There was an old Vantage cig pack in the bottom. Had a bunch of carbide inserts in it that will fit my boring bar. 
(3) of the (4) DIs work. 
Again, noone else...



And another 'noone' else lot.
TSD Double Angle Collets, they are still coated. Probably going to flip these after looking up the going prices. 
And a bunch of HSS bits.



And yet another 'noone' else lot...



This one I wanted. B&S BesTest .0001 DTI



NOS Norton 66261055250 Convolute Wheels



And The End.... 




Missed out on these. 

This Baldor ran smoothly but needed a lot of clean up. Went for over $400



And I couldn't find the stencils or collets for this: Went for over $400 also.



Thanks for looking...


----------



## vtcnc

@middle.road

3:00. Basketball court. Bring your friends, you are going to need them.


----------



## ACHiPo

middle.road said:


> If this doesn't get me beat up after school - nothing will.
> Picts of all the lots I scored and the two I missed out on.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures of the Lot(s) --- CLICK Here...
> 
> 
> 
> This was a 'Junque' lot.... Items on the floor NOT included . . .  Gave the tables away.
> View attachment 337487
> 
> But this was, a Kennedy 5 drawer (...not the stuff on top) (it was added after the catalog was posted) :
> View attachment 337509
> 
> 
> Aloris CXA. (4) std. holders plus a generic parting tool holder and two BXAs, one an Aloris '#8' with extra bits.
> This pict is what was posted in the catalog.
> View attachment 337488
> 
> This is what was in the Lot:
> View attachment 337510
> 
> 
> 
> Misc Lot. -- (3) Albrechts, and a Jacobs 18N, two shell mills for the BP and a bunch of inserts.
> View attachment 337489
> 
> 
> This lot was a surprise. I was wanting the 2" travel Starrett on the right, I busted mine up years ago.
> Then there is a large dial Federal .0001 bore gage, plus the Ames .0001 in the box and the 'others'.
> And then there's the odd black rod that I didn't pay any attention to. Turns out it's a drawbar, which just happens to fit my BP.
> I've actually been needing to get one, and that alone paid for the lot.
> View attachment 337490
> 
> 
> Yet more parallels... (time to unload some.)
> The gage blocks in the wooden holder are really cool.
> They are stamped 'LITEDIE' and they are fractional. Only (3) pcs missing.
> View attachment 337491
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 337512
> 
> 
> THE Machinist's Chest Lot.
> View attachment 337492
> 
> 
> Yuasa indexer. I was after the Sine plate underneath. Haven't even examined this lot yet.
> View attachment 337493
> 
> 
> Brown & Sharpe #255 Mag Block.
> View attachment 337494
> 
> 
> Mitutoyo 'Hole' Square Gage Block set. Missing the small blocks and the 1/2" is not OEM.
> Didn't realize the difference between a standard type set and a square block set until this week.
> Was shocked when I looked up the price of them.
> View attachment 337495
> 
> 
> The Johansson.
> View attachment 337496
> 
> 
> Pratt & Whitney 'Hole' Square gage block set. Date on the tag is '1958'
> Front row is not OEM. Almost complete.
> View attachment 337497
> 
> 
> Diamond wheels. Appear to be unused but I haven't examined them closely - yet.
> View attachment 337498
> 
> 
> More Diamond wheels - Used, three of them have arbors on them.
> View attachment 337499
> 
> 
> A CSE 21.5"(?!) height gage Made in Germany.
> Didn't need another but noone else bid on it.
> View attachment 337500
> 
> 
> Large Dial 2" travel Federal. .001"
> View attachment 337501
> 
> 
> Federal .0001 DTI, missing the crystal.
> View attachment 337502
> 
> 
> Box lot of Misc.
> There was an old Vantage cig pack in the bottom. Had a bunch of carbide inserts in it that will fit my boring bar.
> (3) of the (4) DIs work.
> Again, noone else...
> View attachment 337503
> 
> 
> And another 'noone' else lot.
> TSD Double Angle Collets, they are still coated. Probably going to flip these after looking up the going prices.
> And a bunch of HSS bits.
> View attachment 337504
> 
> 
> And yet another 'noone' else lot...
> View attachment 337505
> 
> 
> This one I wanted. B&S BesTest .0001 DTI
> View attachment 337506
> 
> 
> NOS Norton 66261055250 Convolute Wheels
> View attachment 337507
> 
> 
> And The End....
> View attachment 337508
> 
> 
> 
> Missed out on these.
> 
> This Baldor ran smoothly but needed a lot of clean up. Went for over $400
> View attachment 337515
> 
> 
> And I couldn't find the stencils or collets for this: Went for over $400 also.
> View attachment 337516
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking...


----------



## Aukai

Since I can't be there I'll just tell you where to use the drain snake


----------



## brino

middle.road said:


> If this doesn't get me beat up after school - nothing will.



Wait.
What route home do you use? 

-brino


----------



## middle.road

vtcnc said:


> @middle.road
> 
> 3:00. Basketball court. Bring your friends, you are going to need them.


Thinking about this, there's a problem.
About the only friends I have are here on this forum. 
How's this going to work?


----------



## gr8legs

My recent exploit replacing the shocks on the GMC motorhome was instructive: I was missing a critical tool. Oh, the horror of it all.

(Actually, I was missing two critical tools I didn't know I needed, but a torque multiplier will have to wait for more research. They all look alike.)

My selection of torque wrenches only went to 150 foot pounds and the lug nuts were specified at 250. I like the 'click style' as it is easiest to use without watching a dial or needle dance around.

Off to the online mall for some shopping. 

Today the mailman arrived with my new toys. A used Wright Tools 30-250 Ft. lb. wrench (made in USA, last calibrated in 2018) for about $80 and a brand new GearWrench (made in Taiwan) 30-250 for a bit more. The GearWrench is designed for automotive wheel work and has rubber bumpers to prevent marring the paint. Thoughtful.

They are both 24" long (middle & top in the photo), the one at the bottom of the photo my is original 150# range one (also made in USA, I've had it 40+ years) at about 18" long.




The only challenge now is getting enough 'oomph' to put 125 pounds onto the new wrenches to get to the 250 ft. lb. for the GMC lug nuts as I currently weigh only 126 pounds. Maybe get SWMBO to help out? She'll like that (or maybe not 

Hi, My name is Stu and I'm a toolaholic.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought the cheapest .0001” test dial indicator on eBay. It was $37.50 delivered. It has .008” travel. There was a used Swiss made Brown & Sharpe .00005” TDI for $109, but I can’t afford that. This TDI may not be up to the task, but I will use it to check the spindle runout of my new lathe.


----------



## gr8legs

Continuing the saga of restoring the GMC motorhome I now needed to extend the valve shafts for the sewer and gray water tanks.

They're threaded 1/4-20  I've used the Ace die stock with the 'pseudo guides' many times, and often get the die stock mis-aligned with the round stock I'm threading, thereby cutting a progressively worse alignment as the thread progresses. If it was larger stock I'd single-point it on the lathe but small stuff just shrinks away from the threading tool and I don't have a steady for the lathe to keep it properly in its place. Die threading is faster if ya got the correct die size, too.





Honestly, I rarely thread small round stock (more tapping than threading, ya know?) so it wasn't a big deal until now.

So, back to the mall of the Internet for a suitable tool.

Found this 'Floating Lathe Tailstock Die Holder' set from an eBay seller in India. Yeah, I'd be a bit nervous about India too - but more later.





Kinda like the floating tap holders for the mill, but die holders for a lathe. Ordered one to fit my MT4 tailstock and got all the sizes of die holders in case I ever acquired other dies.

So, I popped it onto the lathe, chucked up (yeah, should use a collet for such small stuff - lazy day, you know?) and tried to make a thread.

First off, my lathe's slowest speed was a bit too fast for my taste in threading - so the next project will be wiring up a variable speed to the VFD - but not germane to today's discussion. So for today I used the clutch to keep the speed comfortable.





Worked like a charm, actually! Good alignment between the die and the workpiece, and after starting the die down the material it produced a very nice and well-aligned thread. Definitely worth the $70 cost of the tool. Workmanship seems very good ~ No complaints. I buggered the starting threads a bit but that was cockpit error on a first try.




The only modification I made was replacing the die holder setscrew with a cap screw so I could change dies without a tool.




If you decide to get one of these, shop around. I looked at the same seller's (micromechanics) 'other items' and the exact same tool set varied in price from about $70 to about $140. Very strange I really can't comment on the accuracy or concentricity of the Morse adapter since the business end 'floats' the die on the stock and alignment is meaningless unless it's out by a 1/16th" or so. Cheaper if you buy only the one die diameter you really need, but what's the fun in that? Shipping from India only took 10 days.

Useful tool if you don't already have one.

YMMV and all that, not affiliated with the seller, just a happy buyer.

Stu


----------



## middle.road

gr8legs said:


> Continuing the saga of restoring the GMC motorhome I now needed to extend the valve shafts for the sewer and gray water tanks.
> 
> They're threaded 1/4-20  I've used the Ace die stock with the 'pseudo guides' many times, and often get the die stock mis-aligned with the round stock I'm threading, thereby cutting a progressively worse alignment as the thread progresses. If it was larger stock I'd single-point it on the lathe but small stuff just shrinks away from the threading tool and I don't have a steady for the lathe to keep it properly in its place. Die threading is faster if ya got the correct die size, too.
> 
> View attachment 337607
> View attachment 337606
> 
> 
> Honestly, I rarely thread small round stock (more tapping than threading, ya know?) so it wasn't a big deal until now.
> 
> So, back to the mall of the Internet for a suitable tool.
> 
> Found this 'Floating Lathe Tailstock Die Holder' set from an eBay seller in India. Yeah, I'd be a bit nervous about India too - but more later.
> 
> View attachment 337605
> View attachment 337604
> 
> 
> Kinda like the floating tap holders for the mill, but die holders for a lathe. Ordered one to fit my MT4 tailstock and got all the sizes of die holders in case I ever acquired other dies.
> 
> So, I popped it onto the lathe, chucked up (yeah, should use a collet for such small stuff - lazy day, you know?) and tried to make a thread.
> 
> First off, my lathe's slowest speed was a bit too fast for my taste in threading - so the next project will be wiring up a variable speed to the VFD - but not germane to today's discussion. So for today I used the clutch to keep the speed comfortable.
> 
> View attachment 337603
> View attachment 337602
> 
> 
> Worked like a charm, actually! Good alignment between the die and the workpiece, and after starting the die down the material it produced a very nice and well-aligned thread. Definitely worth the $70 cost of the tool. Workmanship seems very good ~ No complaints. I buggered the starting threads a bit but that was cockpit error on a first try.
> 
> View attachment 337601
> 
> 
> The only modification I made was replacing the die holder setscrew with a cap screw so I could change dies without a tool.
> 
> View attachment 337600
> 
> 
> If you decide to get one of these, shop around. I looked at the same seller's (micromechanics) 'other items' and the exact same tool set varied in price from about $70 to about $140. Very strange I really can't comment on the accuracy or concentricity of the Morse adapter since the business end 'floats' the die on the stock and alignment is meaningless unless it's out by an 1/16th" or so. Cheaper if you buy only the one die diameter you really need, but what's the fun in that? Shipping from India only took 10 days.
> 
> Useful tool if you don't already have one.
> 
> YMMV and all that, not affiliated with the seller, just a happy buyer.
> 
> Stu


Seems to me to be a heck of a deal for $70. Cost more than that to fab one from scratch.


----------



## erikmannie

gr8legs said:


> Continuing the saga of restoring the GMC motorhome I now needed to extend the valve shafts for the sewer and gray water tanks.
> 
> They're threaded 1/4-20  I've used the Ace die stock with the 'pseudo guides' many times, and often get the die stock mis-aligned with the round stock I'm threading, thereby cutting a progressively worse alignment as the thread progresses. If it was larger stock I'd single-point it on the lathe but small stuff just shrinks away from the threading tool and I don't have a steady for the lathe to keep it properly in its place. Die threading is faster if ya got the correct die size, too.
> 
> View attachment 337607
> View attachment 337606
> 
> 
> Honestly, I rarely thread small round stock (more tapping than threading, ya know?) so it wasn't a big deal until now.
> 
> So, back to the mall of the Internet for a suitable tool.
> 
> Found this 'Floating Lathe Tailstock Die Holder' set from an eBay seller in India. Yeah, I'd be a bit nervous about India too - but more later.
> 
> View attachment 337605
> View attachment 337604
> 
> 
> Kinda like the floating tap holders for the mill, but die holders for a lathe. Ordered one to fit my MT4 tailstock and got all the sizes of die holders in case I ever acquired other dies.
> 
> So, I popped it onto the lathe, chucked up (yeah, should use a collet for such small stuff - lazy day, you know?) and tried to make a thread.
> 
> First off, my lathe's slowest speed was a bit too fast for my taste in threading - so the next project will be wiring up a variable speed to the VFD - but not germane to today's discussion. So for today I used the clutch to keep the speed comfortable.
> 
> View attachment 337603
> View attachment 337602
> 
> 
> Worked like a charm, actually! Good alignment between the die and the workpiece, and after starting the die down the material it produced a very nice and well-aligned thread. Definitely worth the $70 cost of the tool. Workmanship seems very good ~ No complaints. I buggered the starting threads a bit but that was cockpit error on a first try.
> 
> View attachment 337601
> 
> 
> The only modification I made was replacing the die holder setscrew with a cap screw so I could change dies without a tool.
> 
> View attachment 337600
> 
> 
> If you decide to get one of these, shop around. I looked at the same seller's (micromechanics) 'other items' and the exact same tool set varied in price from about $70 to about $140. Very strange I really can't comment on the accuracy or concentricity of the Morse adapter since the business end 'floats' the die on the stock and alignment is meaningless unless it's out by an 1/16th" or so. Cheaper if you buy only the one die diameter you really need, but what's the fun in that? Shipping from India only took 10 days.
> 
> Useful tool if you don't already have one.
> 
> YMMV and all that, not affiliated with the seller, just a happy buyer.
> 
> Stu



I bought that exact same MT4 floating tailstock die kit, but I have not tried it yet.


----------



## MrCrankyface

Bought myself some well-aged slabs of cast iron! They were apparently used in some factory back in the 50's for adjusting different parts that tended to go out of flat.
The thin slab at 400x800x110mm weighs around 170kg according to the seller, the entire car sagged down quite a bit when we loaded both in ...  
Hoping to make a really sturdy table out of these two.


----------



## hman

Well, the table top will certainly be sturdy.  Just be sure the legs are up to the job


----------



## erikmannie

MrCrankyface said:


> Bought myself some well-aged slabs of cast iron! They were apparently used in some factory back in the 50's for adjusting different parts that tended to go out of flat.
> The thin slab at 400x800x110mm weighs around 170kg according to the seller, the entire car sagged down quite a bit when we loaded both in ...
> Hoping to make a really sturdy table out of these two.
> 
> View attachment 337708



How about making a surface plate?


----------



## francist

Cast iron makes a great welding surface — spatter doesn’t stick and mag clamps really like cast.

-frank


----------



## DavidR8

Found myself a shop stool. 
Might take a few inches off the legs so I can add casters. 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gaffer

DavidR8 said:


> Found myself a shop stool.
> Might take a few inches of the legs so I can add casters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nice - and it has to be able to roll around the shop.


----------



## middle.road

DavidR8 said:


> Found myself a shop stool.
> Might take a few inches of the legs so I can add casters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'd leave it without adding casters. Just an Ol' Goat's observation.
With casters on it - someday, sometime or another you will go to plant your arse on it and it'll be just a bit 'off' and scoot out from under you.
Then it is tailbone against concrete, whilst your hands are occupied and you have no way of breaking your fall.
 Takes a while to heal, and I was in my 40's then... -Just saying.


----------



## DavidR8

middle.road said:


> I'd leave it without adding casters. Just an Ol' Goat's observation.
> With casters on it - someday, sometime or another you will go to plant your arse on it and it'll be just a bit 'off' and scoot out from under you.
> Then it is tailbone against concrete, whilst your hands are occupied and you have no way of breaking your fall.
> Takes a while to heal, and I was in my 40's then... -Just saying.



Indeed. 
In high school I fell exactly as you described when the class bully thought it would be funny to yank my lab stool as I was going to sit. 
Hurt like...well you know. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Aaron_W

My new Glacern vise arrived in time for my days off. Sitting beside the 5" vise, I think it will be a big improvement for daily use. The 5" vise is a decent quality import but it takes up 1 to 1-1/4" of my already limited Y travel even when set in the furthest back T slot. The 4" vise takes about 1" of travel set in the middle T slot and is nearly flush with the edge of the table when set in the rear T slot. With only about 5-1/2" of Y travel every inch counts.


----------



## sycle1

David
Looks like a great score! congrats.
I understand the respect and I am the same, after all it was someones life.


----------



## Aaron_W

hman said:


> Well, the table top will certainly be sturdy.  Just be sure the legs are up to the job



and the floor.


----------



## MrCrankyface

hman said:


> Well, the table top will certainly be sturdy.  Just be sure the legs are up to the job


Yeah, for once I will actually need to put some thought into constructing a table, wouldn't want this toppling over! 




erikmannie said:


> How about making a surface plate?


I've considered it! I'm waiting for a quote on surface grinding these as they're quite out of whack and I think they've ever only been skimmed with a fly cutter or similar(judging by the machining marks).
I have a 400x600 granite surface plate, so I might be able to use that for scraping the cast iron ones in but I'm guessing that would be A LOT of work.


----------



## Superburban

MrCrankyface said:


> I have a 400x600 granite surface plate, so I might be able to use that for scraping the cast iron ones in but I'm guessing that would be A LOT of work.


I'm tired just thinking about that.


----------



## Superburban

Got this off ebay. A few years back, I dropped and broke my Simpson 260. Looking for a replacement started me in collecting multi meters, now I have more then 50, waiting on me to build a shelf to display them on. this collection has interfered with my tool buying. I would join multi meter anonymous, but then I would realize I need to also join tool anonymous, machine tool anonymous, tool box anonymous, small engine anonymous, or maybe just a collecting anonymous.


----------



## NCjeeper

Superburban said:


> started me in collecting multi meters,


I have a couple of old ones you maybe interested in. I need to find them and unpack them from the move.


----------



## erikmannie

Last week I put in a lowball bid for this .040” travel .0005” graduation NOS Mitutoyo dial indicator.

Nobody else ever bid so I got this for $25.75 delivered.

I find it very strange that it says Made in USA. I would have expected Japan. 

EDIT:
I see that up until recently Mitutoyo would sometimes assemble in the USA with parts made in Japan. They don’t do that anymore.

It looks to me like it has .120” travel.


----------



## ACHiPo

gr8legs said:


> Continuing the saga of restoring the GMC motorhome I now needed to extend the valve shafts for the sewer and gray water tanks.
> 
> They're threaded 1/4-20  I've used the Ace die stock with the 'pseudo guides' many times, and often get the die stock mis-aligned with the round stock I'm threading, thereby cutting a progressively worse alignment as the thread progresses. If it was larger stock I'd single-point it on the lathe but small stuff just shrinks away from the threading tool and I don't have a steady for the lathe to keep it properly in its place. Die threading is faster if ya got the correct die size, too.
> 
> View attachment 337607
> View attachment 337606
> 
> 
> Honestly, I rarely thread small round stock (more tapping than threading, ya know?) so it wasn't a big deal until now.
> 
> So, back to the mall of the Internet for a suitable tool.
> 
> Found this 'Floating Lathe Tailstock Die Holder' set from an eBay seller in India. Yeah, I'd be a bit nervous about India too - but more later.
> 
> View attachment 337605
> View attachment 337604
> 
> 
> Kinda like the floating tap holders for the mill, but die holders for a lathe. Ordered one to fit my MT4 tailstock and got all the sizes of die holders in case I ever acquired other dies.
> 
> So, I popped it onto the lathe, chucked up (yeah, should use a collet for such small stuff - lazy day, you know?) and tried to make a thread.
> 
> First off, my lathe's slowest speed was a bit too fast for my taste in threading - so the next project will be wiring up a variable speed to the VFD - but not germane to today's discussion. So for today I used the clutch to keep the speed comfortable.
> 
> View attachment 337603
> View attachment 337602
> 
> 
> Worked like a charm, actually! Good alignment between the die and the workpiece, and after starting the die down the material it produced a very nice and well-aligned thread. Definitely worth the $70 cost of the tool. Workmanship seems very good ~ No complaints. I buggered the starting threads a bit but that was cockpit error on a first try.
> 
> View attachment 337601
> 
> 
> The only modification I made was replacing the die holder setscrew with a cap screw so I could change dies without a tool.
> 
> View attachment 337600
> 
> 
> If you decide to get one of these, shop around. I looked at the same seller's (micromechanics) 'other items' and the exact same tool set varied in price from about $70 to about $140. Very strange I really can't comment on the accuracy or concentricity of the Morse adapter since the business end 'floats' the die on the stock and alignment is meaningless unless it's out by an 1/16th" or so. Cheaper if you buy only the one die diameter you really need, but what's the fun in that? Shipping from India only took 10 days.
> 
> Useful tool if you don't already have one.
> 
> YMMV and all that, not affiliated with the seller, just a happy buyer.
> 
> Stu


Stu,
I bought one of those Indian dieholders, but I haven’t used it yet.  Good to see it’s decent.
Evan


----------



## BGHansen

Few small items from eBay.  Picked up what will likely be a lifetime supply of 12-24 and 12-28 brand new Brubaker taps.  Couldn't pass them up for $20 delivered.  Think I've done one 12-24 hole ever, so these will likely be NOS during my eventual estate sale.  Also picked up some obligatory 12-24 and 12-28 dies.  Lastly, some new Morse spiral-flute 10-24 taps.  Was making some aluminum fixtures with 10-24 holes and my two spiral-flute taps were turning a little harder than I'd like.

Bruce


12-24 and 12-28 taps


----------



## Superburban

NCjeeper said:


> I have a couple of old ones you maybe interested in. I need to find them and unpack them from the move.


If you are like me, then you may not find them until the next time you move. I lost count how many times I said it was the last move, only to move again. If you do find them, keep me in mind.


----------



## ACHiPo

Pulled the trigger on a PeWeTools size E Multifix toolpost with several tool holders.  I'm impressed so far!


----------



## pontiac428

Pretty nifty!  I've always wanted a QCTP that I can't easily make tool holders for.  It would be humbling, no doubt!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

erikmannie said:


> Last week I put in a lowball bid for this .040” travel .0005” graduation NOS Mitutoyo dial indicator.
> 
> Nobody else ever bid so I got this for $25.75 delivered.
> 
> I find it very strange that it says Made in USA. I would have expected Japan.
> 
> EDIT:
> I see that up until recently Mitutoyo would sometimes assemble in the USA with parts made in Japan. They don’t do that anymore.
> 
> It looks to me like it has .120” travel.



I was just about to reply to say that it has 0.120" travel when I saw this  Nice find!


----------



## ACHiPo

pontiac428 said:


> Pretty nifty!  I've always wanted a QCTP that I can't easily make tool holders for.  It would be humbling, no doubt!


Well there is that.  Not that I made any for my AXA.


----------



## pontiac428

Got a "Bridgeport screwdriver" for adjusting X backlash.  Needs to come with a flashlight attached.


----------



## DLF

0-75mm TESA depth micrometer in excellent condition













Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MrCrankyface

A dream of mine finally came true, never in the world did I think I'd reach this milestone! 
Found myself a properly chunky lathe, paid a deposit last friday and collected it today!
5000 lbs/2000kg ish of Swedish cast iron.
Made sometime back in the 1940-1960, can't find any kind of serial number sadly and the company couldn't give me any info either besides "at least 60 years old".
Even got a pallet load of accessories!
Model seems to be a Storebro BA SA 205B.


----------



## BGHansen

MrCrankyface said:


> A dream of mine finally came true, never in the world did I think I'd reach this milestone!
> Found myself a properly chunky lathe, paid a deposit last friday and collected it today!
> 5000 lbs/2000kg ish of Swedish cast iron.
> Made sometime back in the 1940-1960, can't find any kind of serial number sadly and the company couldn't give me any info either besides "at least 60 years old".
> Even got a pallet load of accessories!
> Model seems to be a Storebro BA SA 205B.
> View attachment 338563
> View attachment 338564
> View attachment 338565


Congrats!  Here's a link to Tony UK's site with some info on Storebro lathes.

Bruce






__





						Storebro lathes
					





					www.lathes.co.uk


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by the tools/ flea market. First thing i found was this MT5 to MT2 reducer, little dirt and some surface rust but its new never used. Bought it 8$, then i found and bought me couple of set of work gloves and a concrete drill 5$. Then i found and bought me a M22x1.5 Tap for 4$. Then i found me this old rusty driveshaft, bought it for 3$ and last thing i bought me 5 more security bolts for the little niva 2$.


----------



## FOMOGO

Picked up a few things on a trip to Denver the other day. here are a few pics of the Brown & Sharpe 6' camelback straight edge. It was pretty rusty on the working surface, but about 6 hours in Evaporust soaked paper towels did a pretty nice job on it. That and a lot of scrubbing on the the rest of it and the wooden storage base. Haven't unloaded the 8 footer yet, but it's in much nicer condition. Cheers, Mike









	

		
			
		

		
	
Mike


----------



## Aukai

That's a lot of straight edge.....


----------



## extropic

FOMOGO said:


> Picked up a few things on a trip to Denver the other day. here are a few pics of the Brown & Sharpe 6' camelback sraight edge. It was pretty rusty on the working surface, but about 6 hours in Evaporust soaked paper towels did a pretty nice job on it. That and a lot of scrubbing on the the rest of it and the wooden storage base. Haven't unloaded the 8 footer yet, but it's in much nicer condition. Cheers, Mike



Wow! Aukai said it well.

6 and 8 foot straight edges sort of imply you scrape large surfaces. I had no idea you you were into that. Do tell.


----------



## FOMOGO

I have several projects where they will be usefull, and for what I paid for them, I can afford to have them sit until I need them, and have acquired the skill to use them properly. After they have served their purpose, I will likely sell them off. Mike


----------



## Skierdude

Bought a U3 universal grinder. 
Comes with attachments for end mills, drills and lathe bits.
No piece of metal in my shop is safe now!


----------



## extropic

FOMOGO said:


> I have several projects where they will be usefull, and *for what I paid for them*, I can afford to have them sit until I need them, and have acquired the skill to use them properly. After they have served their purpose, I will likely sell them off. Mike



I thought there might be a real good price involved. Maybe even a 

You can't find those in the average used tool shop. Good find.


----------



## pontiac428

Skierdude said:


> Bought a U3 universal grinder.
> Comes with attachments for end mills, drills and lathe bits.
> No piece of metal in my shop is safe now!



No doubt!  I love my Shars U3.  You are missing one of the most important accessories, though:


----------



## FOMOGO

A few pics of the 8' straight edge. This one was produced by JC Busch CO founded in 1907  https://www.buschprecision.com/Busch-Precision/Contact/About-Us/Our-History.htm   and sent to it's demise by some of the regular Wall St. scum in 2017 RIP   https://www.bizjournals.com/milwauk...s-of-busch-precision-being-liquidated-at.html. Appears to either have had very little use, or was scraped back in at some point. Gave it a good scrub down and a coat of WD. Mike


----------



## DavidR8

FOMOGO said:


> A few pics of the 8' straight edge. This one was produced by JC Busch CO founded in 1907  https://www.buschprecision.com/Busch-Precision/Contact/About-Us/Our-History.htm   and sent to it's demise by some of the regular Wall St. scum in 2017 RIP   https://www.bizjournals.com/milwauk...s-of-busch-precision-being-liquidated-at.html. Appears to either have had very little use, or was scraped back in at some point. Gave it a good scrub down and a coat of WD. Mike
> 
> View attachment 338882
> View attachment 338883
> View attachment 338884
> View attachment 338886
> View attachment 338887
> View attachment 338888


I'm guessing that's a two person lift!


----------



## FOMOGO

I'm able to move it myself, but using it by yourself would be another story. Cheers, 

Quote: I'm guessing that's a two person lift!


----------



## Ianagos

I got me a little angle table to put on my surface grinder so I can sharpen my carbide scraper blade.





I got some 240grit and 600 grit diamond wheels off amazon for under $12 each. What a deal these are 5” wheels too.


----------



## mickri

Got a couple of things from Shars today.




I needed a new dead center to replace one of mine that had a broken tip.  It was that way when I bought my lathe.   The new dead center has a straight section between the body and the center.  Mr. Pete has a video where he turned a MT2 / Jacobs chuck adapter so he could align his tailstock.  I turned the straight section to be concentric with spindle.   I zeroed the DI on dead center at the spindle and then moved the dead center to the tailstock.  Moved the carriage so the DI was on the dead center at the tailstock.  The tailstock was 0.001 off.  Fixed that.  The thing that I like about this method to align the tailstock is that you can align the tailstock anywhere along the bed.




The other thing I got was a holder for a DI to a magnetic based.  I never liked the contraption I cobbled together to be able realign the head on the mill/drill.  My new setup is much easier to use.   Here are the before and after pictures.  Anytime I move the head for whatever reason I always realign the head.  Having a convenient way to do this is a big time saver.  In the pictures you can see the swivel base from the mill vise.  It permanently lives on the table.  I made a backing plate for it that fits my chucks.   I spent a lot of time one day dialing it in and have the coordinates written down so I can quickly center it under the spindle.  While nowhere near as good as a rotary table it does allow me to make angled cuts,  drill holes in a bolt circle and even make light radius cuts as I rotate the chuck by hand.


----------



## hman

@FOMOGO - that is one BEAUDACIOUS straightedge!  Cleaned up very nicely.  Now the question - where ya gonna store it????


----------



## FOMOGO

It is a bigg'in . I think they will be going upstairs in the bar area of the shop for the short term, until I'm done with everything downstairs. Then I will find a home for them in the machine shop area. Probably display them on the wall, well supported. Mike


----------



## francist

Couple of pairs of small V-blocks and a test sample of A-9 cutting fluid. The only other experience I have with Relton products is their RapidTap which makes me gag with the smell so wasn’t sure if the A-9 would be similar. Fortunately not, quite pleasant actually, so looking forward to seeing how it works. The setup blocks are predictable — they’ll benefit from a little cleanup and easing of edges but otherwise ok. I wanted some to use on the saws other than my nice pair of Fischer ones. Plus, these come with their own inspection certificates!!


----------



## 7milesup

FOMOGO said:


> I think they will be going upstairs in the bar area of the shop for the short term



Errmmm... what?   Jeepers.  Here I was proud I had a microwave in my shop.


----------



## FOMOGO

Not proud, just thirsty.  Mike



7milesup said:


> Errmmm... what? Jeepers. Here I was proud I had a microwave in my shop.


----------



## Larry$

Skierdude said:


> Bought a U3 universal grinder.
> Comes with attachments for end mills, drills and lathe bits.
> No piece of metal in my shop is safe now!
> 
> View attachment 338647


If got the Shars version.  I've watched 3 good videos about them: Stefan Gottswinter (spelling?) Robin, The tool and die guy.


----------



## addertooth

I bought an extra inch.

Nothing naughty, just a saddle which extends the crossfeed out, up to one more inch away from the center line.  This way I don't have to rotate the compound and crank it back to work larger O.D. parts. The picture is the new saddle resting next to the existing one.  Note the channel cut goes further toward the operator on the saddle in the left of the picture.


----------



## Grandpa's Barn

extropic said:


> No such thing as a dead zone. You turn down the smallest size that is larger than the diameter you need. Only turn down the length you need so you'll eventually end up with stepped mandrels. There is a seller on eBay (factory, I assume) that seems to sell all Breakheart lathe accessories. The seller name is thirdwheelrider. I keep spares on hand (you know why). Looks like eBay is free shipping on that set. Sorry about that. I didn't think about eBay 'till just now. Also, import clones on eBay for less $$, but I can only guess as to quality. Breakheart = USA made and no problems.
> Disclosure: No connection with Breakheart. Just a satisfied customer.


I keep a supply of various sizes of 12L14 or 1245 on hand and have made expanding mandrels simply by drilling, countersinking, threading and slotting. Works great. Braveheart sells replacement screws but they have a very steep taper on the countersink which while it works very well, I haven't found the tool to make that countersink. BTW, a little oil or grease under the screw head allows more expansion. 

Sent from my SM-P550 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Finally broke down and purchased a Chinese Special plasma cutter. It's enroute from Texas as we speak, so I don't have a picture. I am assuming it strikes an arc, likely high frequency, and uses compressed air to blow the kerf clean. I have an acetylene cutting torch and am at least competent enough to have all my fingers still. Been out of gases so long, the tanks are likely out of date.

I did manage to find my old Jackson hood. I have had an "auto darkening" hood, but it's been years since I've seen it. And longer since I've used it. So the battery is probably dead and since it was a HF special to begin with I'll likely just replace it. Welding gloves are at hand. And basic gas welding knowledge. Any thing I'm missing? Comments, please.

.


----------



## DavidR8

Compressor on hand and up to the task @Bi11Hudson?


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## FOMOGO

I got a 40amp Hobart a year or so ago. About the only thing I use my O/A set up for anymore is heating things up with the rosebud to bend or preheat , and the occasional brazing job. I think you will really like it. Cheers, Mike


----------



## Bi11Hudson

DavidR8 said:


> Compressor on hand and up to the task @Bi11Hudson?



13 CFM usually adjusted for 75 PSI. Sufficient?

.


----------



## DavidR8

Bi11Hudson said:


> 13 CFM usually adjusted for 75 PSI. Sufficient?
> 
> .



Oh I expect that will do 


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## Bi11Hudson

FOMOGO said:


> I got a 40amp Hobart a year or so ago. About the only thing I use my O/A set up for anymore is heating things up with the rosebud to bend or preheat , and the occasional brazing job. I think you will really like it. Cheers, Mike



I have been using an HHO (water) rig for a while. What little torch work I do is done well enough with that small gas supply. There are a couple of projects on the "back burner" that would require cutting. If I can still find the parts $c. . . 

.


----------



## FOMOGO

Plenty of cfm, seems I'm usually running around 90psi. Mike


----------



## Logan 400

Be sure to use a good moisture filter for the plasma cutter.
Jay


----------



## finsruskw

The new Mit digital caliper you guys steered me towards last week showed up on Thursday.
Will make a nice drawer mate to the mic I got ;last month.
..


----------



## WobblyHand

Some 7075 drops.  The 4x4x8.5 piece will be cut and used to make a master lap/wheel for a 4" diamond disk lapper.  Sure to find a use for some of the other pieces.


----------



## sycle1

My latest Purchase the new AXA QCTP finally got it mounted.
had to make a new post out of 1020 case hardened. (may have to make a better one it was a bit short)
	

		
			
		

		
	







Works like a dream just gotta learn how to use this thing now!


----------



## DavidR8

sycle1 said:


> My latest finally got it mounted had to make a new post for it and case hardened it (may have to make a better one was a bit short)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 339546
> 
> View attachment 339547
> View attachment 339548
> View attachment 339546



How’s the fit and finish of the locking mechanism? 
Mine was really notchy till I took it apart and used some valve lapping compound to deburr the scroll part inside. 


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## sycle1

This AXA one is fine, but that OXO tool post I got was pretty sketchy.
I had to gently file and persuade it to play nicely when locking and unlocking the tool holders in the end it was fine, just too low for my lathe.


----------



## DLF

A pair of Makita MAKPAK #4 storage boxes for my welding hood and the welding torches.

#4 is a bit too large for the welding hood, but a #3 would have been a very tight fit













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## gr8legs

Yesterday's arrival: a small personnel lift for working on projects above ground level. I've been searching eBay and craigslist for a while and finally found one close enough that transportation wasn't a big deal. Working height up to 26'. Self propelled although the batteries seem a bit soft. 




Now I have to find some loading ramps to get this little beast (2,400#) up onto the pickup bed for local transportation.  Ramps I am finding look pretty wimpy for the weight but supposedly rated for 3,000# or more load. I really don't want the ramps to fold up on me with it halfway up into the truck, and I'd prefer to deal with a USA manufacturer so I can chat with their designers and assure myself that the specs are not gross exaggerations before buying. (ala the stuff from Trashcanistan)

We shall see!

My previous purchase of a manlift was a Genie hand-crank unit that goes to about 30' but requires arms like Popeye to crank yourself up and down. It's lighter weight and therefore good for wood floors (think gymnasium or similar) but I really only have room to store one lift., so #1 goes to the craiglsist swamp.

Stu


----------



## Nogoingback

It was my birthday recently, so I got some birthday presents for the Logan while I was at it.  Shars set-tru ER40 collet chuck, a 13 pc.
Techniks set to get me started with collets and a ball bearing nut and wrench from Rocky Mountain CNC.


----------



## Cheeseking

Fun presents!! .


----------



## BGHansen

Nogoingback said:


> View attachment 339822
> 
> 
> It was my birthday recently, so I got some birthday presents for the Logan while I was at it.  Shars set-tru ER40 collet chuck, a 13 pc.
> Techniks set to get me started with collets and a ball bearing nut and wrench from Rocky Mountain CNC.


Almost makes you wish for more birthdays on your birthday!

Bruce


----------



## DavidR8

Scooped up a set of Tormach tool holders.
2 - 1/4”
2 - 3/8”
4 - 1/2”
ER20 collet chuck
1/4” drill chuck
MT3 adapter







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## Cheeseking

Ooh those are nice too. Im jelly. Never have enough and having to reset tool offsets when swapping tools.


----------



## DavidR8

Cheeseking said:


> Ooh those are nice too. Im jelly. Never have enough and having to reset tool offsets when swapping tools.


I use an ER32 system now but when I got my mill @mikey put forward the Tormach holders as a good system. I got a good deal on my ER32 set but an even better deal on these so I couldn't pass them up.


----------



## addertooth

Just a couple add-ons for the 7 X 16 LMS 7350 lathe.  An independent 4-inch 4-jaw chuck, and a spider for supporting work on the backside of the spindle.  The spider replaces the jam nut on the spindle, and screws into place at the back of the headstock spindle.   As for the 4-jaw chuck, sometimes you just want to turn something which isn't round, or centered.


----------



## Ulma Doctor

i didn't buy it today, but it came today!!!!

A,  NOS Jacobs Speed Chuck No. 91-C3
(D1-3 spindle for my Monarch 10EE)








the chuck is pristine, never been used !!!!


----------



## rwm

Nice find. My South Bend also has a D1-3. What collets does that take?
Robert


----------



## Ulma Doctor

rwm said:


> Nice find. My South Bend also has a D1-3. What collets does that take?
> Robert


Thank you Robert!!!
it takes the J9XX Jacobs collets (J910-J920 Rubber-flex Collets)


----------



## addertooth

Fear of inventory shrinkage and panic won in the wee hours of the morning.  I had been struggling with trying to find a new or used mill for the past few weeks. My local Used market is brutally bad, with decent Mills gone in hours, and what mills are left being in very bad condition. With the Covid slowdowns, NEW inventory has been rapidly diminishing with long restocking periods for vendors.

The Criteria was basic, and it follows.
1. Available power was limited to 120 Volts A.C. However, a minimum of 1 Horsepower.
2. Space is at a Premium, it is essentially a one car garage, which must have room for a car too. The ceiling is not super high.
3. Must be square column, I didn't want to fuss with tram every time I adjusted the Z axis, nor did I want to build a gizmo to make it less of a problem.
4. Stiff enough to do *Light Cuts* in steel with precision. I realize light is subjective, but I used to operate a Bridgeport and know that can't be matched.
5. Heavy enough to achieve the number 4 goal, but not so heavy it will require an act of God to move. A purely arbitrary weight of 340 to 420 was contrived. (Cheap engine hoist moveable)
6. Must have a DRO, I worked as a machinist Decades ago, yes, I can count rotations of the dial and an offset value, but a DRO just makes it easier.
7. An existing Stand available, I really don't want to have to make a bench rated for 500 pounds, and work it to be maximally flat and level.
8. Ground, and preferably scraped Dovetail surfaces.
9. Quiet variable speed Belt Drive, so nobody in the house has reason to complain about the noise.
10. Available X-axis feed, for smoother finishes.

For those who have been looking recently, you realize there are some candidates that match these criteria.   However, by the time funds were in place, everything that matched all of those goals was in part, or in whole OUT of STOCK.
It rapidly turned into an exercise of "what can you do without, or, what can you build/assemble yourself".  The top pick on the short list, ran out of all of the models which had a factory DRO, and then ran out of pedestal bases (Criteria 6 and 7).   Another contender had a DRO, but there was no ETA for a base, it was also at a higher price. 

In the End, I decided that either of my top choices would require me to make a table, so that was not a deciding point.  The question was whether installing a DRO would be a critical factor.  As another poster said in this forum "If you cannot install a DRO, you may not be cut out to be a Machinist".  It seemed apparent that installing a DRO, (although a pain in the butt, and usually requiring the installer to make custom brackets), was not going to be a deal breaker.

A Precision Matthews PM-728-VT was ordered, which with the (inventory) limitations of Items 6 and 7 above, met all of the other requirements.
A cheap "throw away" DRO was ordered, which was sized to fit the Mill.  A word of caution to people selecting DRO units, keep in mind the length of the Linear Scales are LONGER than the total length they can measure; plan accordingly. Those who buy a 400mm LONG scale, will discover it measures a shorter distance than 400mm (some vendors sell based upon the physical length of the scale, and others sell based upon the length it can measure).  Be sure to get linear scales long enough to measure the distance you need, but also, be aware the extra length has to (somehow) bolt up to your mill.  Sometimes things are in the way of the latter goal.  The Cheap kit I found (less than 200 bucks) already had the correct length linear scales for the PM-728-VT, and if I ran into problems, the kit could be recycled and tossed on my lathe (so little overall risk here). 

Pictures:
The Mill, The DRO. Both are Website Pictures.


----------



## Liljoebrshooter

I have been deciding if I need one of these since I bought my surface grinder.  Well I was working on a little project the other day and made the decision. 
It is in really good condition and I got it for a decent price. 
Joe


----------



## rwm

Really good condition! As in new! (Ignore that grinding mark on the nose. That is from the factory testing)
R


----------



## JRaut

Got me a SCREAMING deal on this German-made Kuhlmann SU/1.

Essentially the same as a Deckel S0.

Insanely well built. Friend of mine says the Kuhlmann is even better than the O.G.

I paid $250 and it came with a bunch of (beat up) collets. Can't even get a second-hand Chinese clone for that!


----------



## hman

Definite suckage going on here!


----------



## DavidR8

hman said:


> Definite suckage going on here!


+1!!!!


----------



## DavidR8

This large dial .0001 Mercer dial indicator followed me home. Like new condition. 











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## BGHansen

Couple of recent pick-ups.  I tend to be on the conservative side; figured our kids always thought of me as a big square.  Couldn't pass up on this Brown & Sharpe model 540 machinist square in an individual wooden case.  Now I have the hardware to prove I'm one  just over 24" x just over 10".  Would hate to drop this one on the floor or my feet!  Picture of it on my Bridgeport's table too.  No plans for it, probably more of a conversation piece than anything.  Imagine pulling this out if someone asked if they could borrow a square!








Got a box of boxes too.  Bought a set of Huot drill bit cabinets from eBay seller "toolguys2" for around $225 including shipping and tax.  Look a lot classier than the plastic small parts boxes I'd been using.  Purely frivolous on my part, but our son will inherit my shop some day; don't want him to say, "Boy, dad bought a lot of cheap junk".  Filled them up this evening, must say they are very smooth.  Hopefully our son will appreciate them as much as I do!

Bruce


Three drill indexes individually boxed that were packed in one big box



Huot does an outstanding job on packaging.  Foam packing to hold the cabinet over an inch from the sides of the cardboard box.






Time to fill 'er up!


----------



## NCjeeper

Bought a Pexto 137 stomp shear. I would post a picture but you guys know what one looks like.


----------



## 7milesup

NCjeeper said:


> Bought a Pexto 137 stomp shear. I would post a picture but you guys know what one looks like.


Yeah, but what fun is that.  We want to see pictures so we can go "ooooohhhh.   Ahhhhh"


----------



## NCjeeper

7milesup said:


> Yeah, but what fun is that.  We want to see pictures so we can go "ooooohhhh.   Ahhhhh"


Roger that!


----------



## extropic

That's fancy, with the large table in front and set-up for some sort of stock from a roll or coil. Probably a paper or plastic stock, given the "light weight" of the set-up. That's great news for you, implying the sheer has lived a relatively "un-thrashed" life.

Is the pneumatic power a factory deal or shop built?

Just a word of caution. The first time you put air to it, regulate the pressure down low until you personally check out the travel on the mechanism.

War story: Once upon a time, I was unsuccessful at convincing the boss to fund a new one so I was forced to buy a used, shop modified (from stomp to pneumatic) 48" sheer. It arrived with a 4x4s (wood) under each end support. I assumed they were added by the machinery dealer for ease of handling and removed them. The first time I put air to it, *BANG*, the thing did a *back flip*. Scared the h&[[ out of me and attracted curious persons from all over the building. No one was hurt. Small divot in the concrete floor and the tension rod adjuster needed adjustment. Anyway, the 4x4s had been there because the chap that did the mod had the treadle driven below the normal floor level.  BE CAREFUL.


----------



## NCjeeper

Yep a previous owner installed pneumatic power. Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## 7milesup

Ohhhhh....ahhhhhh.  I like it!


----------



## DLF

Bought a 2500W induction heater from china. 220V AC instead of the 50V DC (I did not really want to fiddle with a big power supply). It even came with a nice heating coil.

I want to use it for heating the pool. A copper pipe with steel jacket (copper is not induction friendly) as a heat exchanger and high temp electrical insulation (ceramic?) between the pipe assembly and the coil to prevent electric shock.












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## middle.road

Finally got the indexable carbide sorted out from the two chests.
More than offset the cost of both of them.
Bunch of 'notch' inserts in various styles, some even fit the holders.
Several threading inserts along with some milling cutter inserts that I haven't tracked down yet.




Very small boring bar. Would not want to wager how quick I could chowder it up.
Decent Kennametal 3/4 mill



Quite a number of CNMP431's, but alas, no holder for them.
A single CBN tipped 55° insert.


----------



## Aukai

Nice haul


----------



## sycle1

Bit the bullet and bought this








So now the adventure begins!


----------



## 7milesup

Ohhhhhhhhh.....Ahhhhhh.  I Likey!!

Congrats on the mill!


----------



## Dhal22

Beautiful.


----------



## finsruskw

I like that chip guard!!


----------



## finsruskw

I like that chip guard!!


----------



## DavidR8

NCjeeper said:


> Roger that!
> View attachment 340492



"ooooohhhh. Ahhhhh"



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----------



## DLF

sycle1 said:


> Bit the bullet and bought this
> 
> 
> View attachment 340583
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now the adventure begins!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 340583



Nice mill. Congrats

Now the tooling ocd can fully manifest itself 

Enjoy the machine. Optimum ones are nicely built.


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## DavidR8

Congratulations @sycle1!


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----------



## francist

Mitutoyo 4-5”, with standard. The case is a bit worse for wear but nothing a little plastic surgery can’t fix.

I had to chuckle a little as I was driving out to get this today. I received my first micrometer, an NSK 0-1”, for my thirteenth birthday and although I didn’t use it that much I did occasionally have a need.

Fast forward a few years (like about 40) with a more focussed interest in machining related things I broke down and bought a 1-2” Starrett. That ought to do me, I thought. Why would I need anything bigger than that.

Then a 2-3” Moore and Wright showed up and, well, it just seemed too good of a deal to pass. Overkill for my needs though, I’ll never need to measure things that big...

When the Mitutoyo digit mic came along for absolutely silly dollars it was a real stretch — four inches, Frank? Really, you think you’ll need to measure accurately up to four inches....? 

And now this. Clearly though this will be the end of it, I know my limits and that’s that. I cannot see how I would ever need to accurately measure anything larger than five inches.....




-frank


----------



## brino

francist said:


> Clearly though this will be the end of it..... I cannot see how I would ever need to accurately measure anything larger than five inches.....



Yeah, I don't see a historical pattern either.
-brino


----------



## addertooth

I have a mill heading my way.  I also ordered the "deluxe tooling kit"  with all the usual stuff 321 blocks, parallels, vice, etc... and some 2 flute and 4 flute end mills.  I received notification the deluxe kit shipped, then I received notice that the 4 flute end mills were on back order... what @$#$ use is a mill without cutters? 

So... I ordered some 2 flute (ZrN) and 4 flute (AlTiN) end mills from a different source.  I suspect they are better quality than what came in the Deluxe Kit anyway (as I recall they are Cobalt Steel in the deluxe kit, with no mention of coating).


----------



## Dhal22

Beautiful.


----------



## sycle1

*finsruskw*

Yep me too, liked it so much I took it straight off so it don't get chips on it.
Stupid little flimsy thing!
And it had a cut off switch on it. 
When I say on I want ON! not when a safety feature says I can.


----------



## WobblyHand

I took mine off as well.  Actually couldn't even figure out to use the mill with the plastic door in place.  Mine seemed to actually prevent usage of the mill.  Removing the shield means I have to be extra careful in use.  There have been several times when I had wished the shield was in place, if for nothing else, to contain flying chips.  I need to make a shield attachment for my vise that doesn't get in the way as well as one for the table when work is clamped to the table.  I've seen lots of examples here on HM, just have to make them.

Safety features should help us.  They are a good thing to have.  They should _encourage safe practices_ without making our work difficult.


----------



## hman

My mini-mill came with a stiff plastic chip shield, which was also a pain to use.  It would frequently interfere with the table, workpiece, or vise. I replaced it with a similarly sized piece of thick clear vinyl, supported by an aluminum bar on its top edge.  It's survived hot chips, cutting lubricants, etc. for something like 5 years now.  Nicely bends out of the way when something pushes on it, and does a good job stopping the flying whatever.  Perhaps this'll give you a path forward to your own solution.


----------



## DavidR8

Picked up a 16.5” floor standing Delta drill press. This is the model with the idler pulley so speed can go down to 250 rpm. Came with an X/Y vise. 
Completely covered in grime but very sound machine. 







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----------



## francist

I bought the same model new for my workplace. The speed range is indeed nice but for some reason ours seems really noisy for a drill press. That one looks to be in great shape 

-frank


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> I bought the same model new for my workplace. The speed range is indeed nice but for some reason ours seems really noisy for a drill press. That one looks to be in great shape
> 
> -frank



I hemmed and hawed a bit but it was really solid. I really regret trading my press like yours and have been looking for another press for a while now. 
This one is pretty quiet, but I’m going to go through it and will likely replace bearings as there is a bit of grumbling sound from the spindle. 


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----------



## f350ca

Have the same drill press too, bought it 20 years ago. Not particularly quiet, but my big beef is the belts slipping. Have tried new belts to no avail, often drive a wedge between the motor and housing to get them tight enough.
Greg


----------



## Winegrower

i got this Geometric die head and some useful thread size dies.  I tried it out today, and wow, it really works great.  
this is a 1/2-13 thread, just does this so fast! If you look closely, you may be able to see where i first threaded with a loose setting and then overthreaded with tighter thread. It rethreads perfectly, so you can adjust the fit from tight to loose to fit a nut. Once you like the fit, it can be locked in.

Given that I have the right thread chasers, and i have a few choices between #10 and 1/2”, this will be faster and better looking than single point threading.


----------



## DavidR8

f350ca said:


> Have the same drill press too, bought it 20 years ago. Not particularly quiet, but my big beef is the belts slipping. Have tried new belts to no avail, often drive a wedge between the motor and housing to get them tight enough.
> Greg



I’ll probably throw a new set of belts on it for good measure. 


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----------



## finsruskw

Just showed up today.
Will make a good mate for the 0"-1"


----------



## Papa Charlie

I received the 15,  1/4" mills today, also got a 3/8"mill, a 1/8" mill and what looks like a 1/16" mill and what looks like a micro mill. The extra mills I got from Dixon are sealed in a vacuum package and I didn't want to open it to measure the small items that came with the primary order. 

Thanks again for turning us onto the 1/4" Mills for $1.00 each plus shipping.


----------



## ACHiPo

finsruskw said:


> Just showed up today.
> Will make a good mate for the 0"-1"
> 
> View attachment 340880


You'll love it.  I'm already wondering what I did before getting my 0-1 and 1-2!  Mikey is quite the enabler!


----------



## Scra99tch

Bought this today.  A 1968 Fortuna Universal Cylindrical Grinder.  Came with manual, two types of collets and taper attachments.  Has the steady rest and work head.  Inspected the ways a little and they are in great shape.  The work head would not budge so I removed one of the plain bearings and it was a little oil that seems to be turned into resin which came off with my fingernail.  The plain bearings look great and the bearing surfaces are not gouged and show very little wear.

All I have to do is re-wire for 220, and replace the oils.

This thing is very "universal" somewhere there is a internal grinding attachment that would go with it. Other than that the work head swivels, the tables swivels, the grinding head swivels. Its only limitations seem to be work envelope and swing. It weighs 1900lbs and was a pain to get of the trailer myself, I gotta find a better way. to move machinery.

According to the manual it has sometype of automatic feed to rough finish and sparkout without touching anything. The dials are marked .001mm.


----------



## Scra99tch

What type of collets are these anyways?  No markings on them.


----------



## 7milesup

Scra99tch said:


> Bought this today.  A 1968 Fortuna Universal Cylindrical Grinder.  Came with manual, two types of collets and taper attachments.  Has the steady rest and work head.  Inspected the ways a little and they are in great shape.  The work head would not budge so I removed one of the plain bearings and it was a little oil that seems to be turned into resin which came off with my fingernail.  The plain bearings look great and the bearing surfaces are not gouged and show very little wear.
> 
> All I have to do is re-wire for 220, and replace the oils.
> 
> This thing is very "universal" somewhere there is a internal grinding attachment that would go with it. Other than that the work head swivels, the tables swivels, the grinding head swivels. Its only limitations seem to be work envelope and swing. It weighs 1900lbs and was a pain to get of the trailer myself, I gotta find a better way. to move machinery.
> 
> According to the manual it has sometype of automatic feed to rough finish and sparkout without touching anything. The dials are marked .001mm.



Oooooohhhh.   Aaaaahhhh!  I like itl  Looks like it didn't really get that much use judging by the controls and buttons.  Looking forward to seeing how you get along with it.
Oh, and I have no idea what those collets are, sorry.


----------



## Cooter Brown

I'm sorry if any of you were bidding on this but its mine now......

Its a Lapmaster Monochromatic Light Source.......







and this 100mm Optical Flat shipping from Ukraine.....


----------



## Aukai

Awesome score    What is it I'll start looking it up


----------



## Cooter Brown

Aukai said:


> Awesome score    What is it I'll start looking it up


----------



## Ianagos

Scra99tch said:


> Bought this today. A 1968 Fortuna Universal Cylindrical Grinder. Came with manual, two types of collets and taper attachments. Has the steady rest and work head. Inspected the ways a little and they are in great shape. The work head would not budge so I removed one of the plain bearings and it was a little oil that seems to be turned into resin which came off with my fingernail. The plain bearings look great and the bearing surfaces are not gouged and show very little wear.
> 
> All I have to do is re-wire for 220, and replace the oils.
> 
> This thing is very "universal" somewhere there is a internal grinding attachment that would go with it. Other than that the work head swivels, the tables swivels, the grinding head swivels. Its only limitations seem to be work envelope and swing. It weighs 1900lbs and was a pain to get of the trailer myself, I gotta find a better way. to move machinery.
> 
> According to the manual it has sometype of automatic feed to rough finish and sparkout without touching anything. The dials are marked .001mm.



I’ve been looking for a small compact universal od grinder for a bit. But that’s a nice one hope you get years of good service from it.


----------



## Cooter Brown

Ianagos said:


> I’ve been looking for a small compact universal od grinder for a bit. But that’s a nice one hope you get years of good service from it.



Add "Crystal Lake" to your search list if its not already on there.....


----------



## Papa Charlie

What does anyone know about Chevalier FSG-2A618 Automatic Surface Grinder. It is only 6"x18" work surface travel.


----------



## sycle1

WobblyHand said:


> I took mine off as well.  Actually couldn't even figure out to use the mill with the plastic door in place.  Mine seemed to actually prevent usage of the mill.  Removing the shield means I have to be extra careful in use.  There have been several times when I had wished the shield was in place, if for nothing else, to contain flying chips.  I need to make a shield attachment for my vise that doesn't get in the way as well as one for the table when work is clamped to the table.  I've seen lots of examples here on HM, just have to make them.
> 
> Safety features should help us.  They are a good thing to have.  They should _encourage safe practices_ without making our work difficult.


Yes I agree in the safety aspects, but I think sometimes the designers of these products have been in CAD too long and they seem to churn out these impractical features in everything they make. 
As if no one has actually used the product.. LOL! ( but that would never happen)


----------



## Rex Walters

Jiminy. I just discovered this thread. Now to forget I ever saw it.

"I generally avoid temptation unless I can't resist it."
     -- Mae West


----------



## sycle1

Todays arrivals, Imperial transfer pin set and an MT3 to ER32 Collet holder. With more purchases to come for the new Mill.


----------



## DavidR8

sycle1 said:


> View attachment 341226
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Todays arrivals, Imperial transfer pin set and an MT3 to ER32 Collet holder. With more purchases to come for the new Mill.


Nice!
I have an MT3-->ER32 sewtup for my mill. Had trouble finding one with 3/8-16 drawbar threads. Where did you find yours?


----------



## sycle1

Got mine off Ebay it has a M12 Drawbar thread.
Of course after I purchased it, I watched all the you tube videos of the horrendous runout on these ER32 collet arbors.
So I guess when my DTI arrives, I will check it and see.


----------



## Winegrower

I bought a tailstock chuck.   Seems like this would be useful at times.    I got it on eBay, made in India.   I thought, how bad can it be?
Actually it looks pretty good, nice ground surfaces, pretty clean and dejunked.    Interesting that the runout was good on the chuck body, less than 0.003" and terrible on anything held in the jaws, like 0.030" or maybe worse, I was in shock and don't quite remember.   On inspection, one jaw was marked 1 and 3, another jaw was just 1, and the last was marked 2.   That was unusual.   Worse, unfortunately, to get the jaws to close properly, jaw 1/3 had to go into slot 1, jaw 2 into slot 2, and jaw 1 into slot 3!   Took a few minutes to figure that out.   After that, the runout dropped to about 0.006", probably good enough for a tailstock chuck.   There is a lot of axial misalignment that produces wobble, but for the intended use, since the work will be aligned by the headstock setup, that's probably OK.   

 Of course I had to take it completely apart, deburr and file a little bit to get the jaws to slide sort of like they should.  

The bearing is good, very smooth, no movement, so I hope that will work when I start turning something.    Overall, it's about the minimum acceptable product.   I can't be too critical for a $75 purchase including shipping from India.

S


----------



## Cheeseking

Remark the jaws now that you figured that part out


----------



## Winegrower

Cheeseking said:


> Remark the jaws now that you figured that part out



Ha ha, I'll never forget this.   But my heirs might get confused, thinking the old boy really lost it there at the end.

But you make a good point, I'll do that.


----------



## Rogbo

Well, bought them on the Flea for a nickle.98 a few days ago, but they showed up today. A nice old  Dietzgen made in USA drafting set. As a retired full time IT guy, I just about can't stand to turn a computer on anymore. And my 'drafting' so far is more brainstorming shapes and sizes for this little project or the other. I guess if I get more serious than our choppers and 4x4s and kids toys I'll have to turn on the workstation and learn a CAD.


----------



## extropic

Rogbo said:


> Well, bought them on the Flea for a nickle.98 a few days ago, but they showed up today. A nice old  Dietzgen made in USA drafting set. As a retired full time IT guy, I just about can't stand to turn a computer on anymore. And my 'drafting' so far is more brainstorming shapes and sizes for this little project or the other. I guess if I get more serious than our choppers and 4x4s and kids toys I'll have to turn on the workstation and learn a CAD.



LOL. The description of your distaste for computers related to design/drawings gives me a chuckle. I understand, and don't criticize, your point of view.
It's a great example of "different strokes for different folks".

We are about 180° out on the subject. My career involved creating designs/drawings and I loved when CAD became available to me. As a matter of fact, only after retirement did I come to realize how much I would miss free access to a top drawer CAD capability.

My Father was a draftsman and I inherited his personal tools. I've only kept, what I have, for sentimental reasons. No real practical value to me.

The computer takes all the drudgery out of putting lines on vellum. Line weights are perfect, lettering is perfect, smudges and erasure damage are nonexistent. CAD freed us from all those "housekeeping" concerns so more brain power can be focused on the design. CAD also has a curious feature in that, no matter how long I search the display for needed corrections/improvements, I will discover an issue immediately AFTER I send the file to the plotter.


----------



## matthewsx

Rogbo said:


> Well, bought them on the Flea for a nickle.98 a few days ago, but they showed up today. A nice old  Dietzgen made in USA drafting set. As a retired full time IT guy, I just about can't stand to turn a computer on anymore. And my 'drafting' so far is more brainstorming shapes and sizes for this little project or the other. I guess if I get more serious than our choppers and 4x4s and kids toys I'll have to turn on the workstation and learn a CAD.
> 
> View attachment 341301


I'm just happy to know that IT guys get to retire 

My ultimate fantasy is no email, cell phone or social media other than this place....


John


----------



## NCjeeper

This may qualify me for the "you suck" award. Got this for $45 off of E-bay.


----------



## Janderso

Are you kidding me???
You totally suck Jeeper. We'll give you a pass though, the 9 months of rain had me feeling sorry for you.


----------



## DavidR8

What Jeff said!!!
Clearly the rain gods have given you special access to sweet deals!


----------



## hman

Definite suckage there.  Congratulations!
Did you get any collets with the tapping heads?


----------



## NCjeeper

hman said:


> Did you get any collets with the tapping heads?


Nope but I already have the 2 collets that cover up to 1/2".


----------



## 7milesup

Yeah Jeeper.... I was gonna say "you suck pondwater".  (A little rain reference for ya)
One of my instructors used to say that in flying school...."Don't do that or you'll be suckin' pondwater"  LOL


----------



## Buffalo21

A set of metric ER 20 collets, a set of metric  ER 32 collets, (20) 3/16” 4 fl, center cutting carbide end mills, a box LNGX 130708-R L55 WPK35s inserts for my Walter 4041 face mill, a revised ER 20 ball bearing nut, 5 more AXA tool blocks and large 5 gallonbucket full of taps, end mills, drills and lathe tool inserts.


----------



## Papa Charlie

@NCjeeper well you definitely  used up all those points you collected on the heck you went through on the shop.

In all seriousness, I have too learn how to scan Ebay better.


----------



## Buffalo21

The company asked me to make a couple specialized parts and pieces, not really wanting to make them, I told them, I would need some “specialized tooling” and I was not about to buy them. They asked how much, I told them roughly $2500, five minutes later, I had a check. So my latest tool splurges are being financed by others, God, I love this.

So this morning I ordered a ER 16 x R8 set up, collet chuck, fractional and metric collets, ball bearing clamping nut and a tapping chuck and collets. It’s going to be like Christmas morning over the next week.


----------



## 682bear

A couple of years ago, I bought an old, well used pallet jack... I didn't know how much I would actually use it, so I didn't want to spend a lot, and opted for a very cheap used one.

Last week, I was moving my mill (@2200 lbs), and the jack would only stay up long enough to roll the mill 3-4 feet before it bled down.

So today I drove over to Northern Tool and bought a new 5500 lb pallet jack...




They are regularly $315, but they are currently on sale for $285.

-Bear


----------



## mattthemuppet2

don't think I posted this on here, but I got an old South Bend 9 New Model (1929?) project in pieces for $400. It'll definitely be a learning experience but I'm really looking forward to using a bigger lathe (and QCGB!) compared with my Atlas 618.













so far done the chuck, leadscrew and apron worm. Working on the rest of the apron this weekend.


----------



## Papa Charlie

mattthemuppet2 said:


> don't think I posted this on here, but I got an old South Bend 9 New Model (1929?) project in pieces for $400. It'll definitely be a learning experience but I'm really looking forward to using a bigger lathe (and QCGB!) compared with my Atlas 618.
> View attachment 341585
> 
> View attachment 341586
> 
> View attachment 341587
> 
> View attachment 341588
> 
> View attachment 341589
> 
> View attachment 341590
> 
> 
> so far done the chuck, leadscrew and apron worm. Working on the rest of the apron this weekend.



This will keep you busy for a couple of days.


----------



## NCjeeper

Another E-bay score. J.H. Williams 1" drive ratchet. I have been trying to score a Snap On one but didn't feel like taking out a mortgage to pay for it. I got the Williams for $50 bucks.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Papa Charlie said:


> This will keep you busy for a couple of days.



that it has already done  Hoping no more than a month, so I can get my current lathe on the market before Christmas.


----------



## DLF

Rogbo said:


> Well, bought them on the Flea for a nickle.98 a few days ago, but they showed up today. A nice old Dietzgen made in USA drafting set. As a retired full time IT guy, I just about can't stand to turn a computer on anymore. And my 'drafting' so far is more brainstorming shapes and sizes for this little project or the other. I guess if I get more serious than our choppers and 4x4s and kids toys I'll have to turn on the workstation and learn a CAD.
> 
> View attachment 341301



Nice set. By the looks I would say it was an old german Richter set (if not for the nameplate)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WobblyHand

I like the set.  Reminds me of the set I inherited from my Dad.  He used this drawing set when in engineering school  ca. 1950.  It's a Keuffel & Esser Co.  "Mercury".  Seems Dad must of been in a hurry the last time he inked, as there's still some ink on the pens!


----------



## derfatdutchman

Good day at the flea market, brand new still in the cardboard tube Do-All and Brown & Sharpe 2 & 4 flute HSS end mills for $4.00 each!


----------



## Papa Charlie

Rogbo said:


> Well, bought them on the Flea for a nickle.98 a few days ago, but they showed up today. A nice old  Dietzgen made in USA drafting set. As a retired full time IT guy, I just about can't stand to turn a computer on anymore. And my 'drafting' so far is more brainstorming shapes and sizes for this little project or the other. I guess if I get more serious than our choppers and 4x4s and kids toys I'll have to turn on the workstation and learn a CAD.
> 
> View attachment 341301



That is similar to the set I got from my dad. Only his was made by Lenox. Sadly the case is starting to fall apart. Especially around one of the snaps. I used it for many years before electronic drawing programs became available to me. I enjoyed the drafting/design work I did, but must admit that much easier to do electronic and don't have to worry about corrections.


----------



## Aaron_W

Winegrower said:


> I bought a tailstock chuck.   Seems like this would be useful at times.    I got it on eBay, made in India.   I thought, how bad can it be?
> Actually it looks pretty good, nice ground surfaces, pretty clean and dejunked.    Interesting that the runout was good on the chuck body, less than 0.003" and terrible on anything held in the jaws, like 0.030" or maybe worse, I was in shock and don't quite remember.   On inspection, one jaw was marked 1 and 3, another jaw was just 1, and the last was marked 2.   That was unusual.   Worse, unfortunately, to get the jaws to close properly, jaw 1/3 had to go into slot 1, jaw 2 into slot 2, and jaw 1 into slot 3!   Took a few minutes to figure that out.   After that, the runout dropped to about 0.006", probably good enough for a tailstock chuck.   There is a lot of axial misalignment that produces wobble, but for the intended use, since the work will be aligned by the headstock setup, that's probably OK.
> 
> Of course I had to take it completely apart, deburr and file a little bit to get the jaws to slide sort of like they should.
> 
> The bearing is good, very smooth, no movement, so I hope that will work when I start turning something.    Overall, it's about the minimum acceptable product.   I can't be too critical for a $75 purchase including shipping from India.
> 
> S
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 341285




I've got a 3/4"-16 to MT2 adaptor which allows me to use my Sherline chucks in the tail stock of my larger lathe. I haven't but I can if the need arises.


----------



## vtcnc

Good deal on this helmet on IOC. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





My 11 year old wanted to be the first to try it on...







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Aukai

Paint it right, he can be ironman


----------



## Gaffer

vtcnc said:


> Good deal on this helmet on IOC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 11 year old wanted to be the first to try it on...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have the same helmet. It's awesome. It replaced a 15 yr, or so, old Jackson.


----------



## NCjeeper

vtcnc said:


> Good deal on this helmet on IOC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 11 year old wanted to be the first to try it on...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Your going to enjoy using it. Everything is so clear.


----------



## Gaffer

I bit the bullet and bought these last week and they arrived today. I can't believe how quickly they arrived. And they came with a gummy bears!


----------



## Dhal22

0-1/2" Albrecht chuck thanks to Mr Whoope.  He spotted it in California, i received it in Georgia 3 days later.   Heavy well made device,  I love it.   Now I need a drill press for it.


----------



## devils4ever

4" 4-jaw chuck from LMS to compliment my 3-jaw chuck for my mini-lathe. It looks to be well made and has the backing plate to match my spindle.

Now, I need to learn how to adjust the independent jaws for minimal runout.

Quick question: are the jaws interchangeable? Or, are they like a 3-jaw chuck and can only go in a certain spot in a specific order?


----------



## Gaffer

devils4ever said:


> 4" 4-jaw chuck from LMS to compliment my 3-jaw chuck for my mini-lathe. It looks to be well made and has the backing plate to match my spindle.
> 
> Now, I need to learn how to adjust the independent jaws for minimal runout.
> 
> Quick question: are the jaws interchangeable? Or, are they like a 3-jaw chuck and can only go in a certain spot in a specific order?
> 
> View attachment 342017


I'm not sure about the jaws having to be in the same position. I remember watching a Joe Pie video on 3-jaw chucks, and I believe he said it mattered that the jaws stayed in sequential order. Meaning as long as you know which jaws are 1, 2 & 3, jaw #1 could go into any of the slots. What mattered was that jaw's 2 and 3 followed in sequential order. I should think the same would apply to a 4-jaw, and I'm curious what our more experienced folks have to say. My jaws and chuck are stamped so I keep them in their marked positions.


----------



## Shiseiji

Gaffer said:


> I bit the bullet and bought these last week and they arrived today. I can't believe how quickly they arrived. And they came with a gummy bears!



Love mine. And they're German gummy bears 

Ron


----------



## Shiseiji

Gaffer said:


> I'm curious what our more experienced folks have to say. My jaws and chuck are stamped so I keep them in their marked positions.


My very limited experience is that they do wear and like staying with their mate. 
Many 'tuts on dialing them in, make/get yourself a second tee handle, makes a huge difference. The two keys help so you can loosen then tighten with both hands. 

You use the rings to get close.
Mount the indicator on the back side at about 2' o'clock so you can reach the near and far jaws with both hands. 
Find the mid-point between high/low and center the indicator. 
Rotate the chuck until the #1 jaw is in alignment with the indicator.  
Note the reading and rotate the from #1 on dial to #3 on dial and note the reading.
Start splitting the difference between 1 & 3 till is is zero using the two keys to loosen one then tighten the other. 
Try not to over tighten, but don't let the work fall out of the chuck  Don't ask.
As you get close you may need to loosen the one you just tightened for a little slack.

Now split the difference between 2 & 4.
An ordinary empty soup can will work great for practice.
When you want to practice threading, use 3/4" PVC and thread to match a propane torch thread. Just convenient sizes. 

Asks lot of questions here. People are very nice and willing to share. 

Ron


----------



## Aaron_W

Scroll chucks are particular with the jaws because of how they mesh with the scroll grooves. I think independent chucks the jaws can go in any location but it is still desirable to keep them in the same location / order for the best accuracy.




Gaffer said:


> I bit the bullet and bought these last week and they arrived today. I can't believe how quickly they arrived. And they came with a gummy bears!
> 
> View attachment 341988



Must be a European thing, my Prusa (Czech) 3D printer also came with Haribo gummy bears.


----------



## Gaffer

Aaron_W said:


> Scroll chucks are particular with the jaws because of how they mesh with the scroll grooves. I think independent chucks the jaws can go in any location but it is still desirable to keep them in the same location / order for the best accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Must be a European thing, my Prusa (Czech) 3D printer also came with Haribo gummy bears.


I bought mine from Jens Putzier Tools. One of the tabs on their main page is German Sweets. It's an odd combo, but I like it!








						German Sweets
					






					www.jensputzier.com


----------



## hman

Jaws on a 4-jaw chuck are not only interchangeable, but also reversible without any problems or worries.

PS - when centering with a 4-jaw chuck, I've found it handy to label them (with a Sharpie) as A, B, A', and B', with the two As opposite each other, etc.  Reduces confusion.  

And you might want to take the spring off the chuck key.  Yes, they put it there to prevent you from leaving the key in the chuck when starting the lathe.  But it also makes it difficult to find and adjust the "far side" jaw when centering a part.  Just get in the habit of ALWAYS taking the key out, putting it in a prominent dedicated spot, and checking that it's there when you go to turn the lathe on.  I forget who it was who recently posted that "If the chuck key is in the chuck, it's also in your hand."


----------



## tjb

hman said:


> PS - when centering with a 4-jaw chuck, I've found it handy to label them (with a Sharpie) as A, B, A', and B', with the two As opposite each other, etc. Reduces confusion.


Good idea, John.  I got into the habit of labeling mine with numbers and a Red and a Blue Sharpie.  Two opposing sides would be Red-1 and Blue-1; the other two would be Red-2 and Blue-2.  Any convention that reduces confusion is helpful.  Also, it was recommended to me by one of our experts to have two chuck keys: one for the front jaw and the other for the rear - less rotating of the chuck when centering, with the added benefit of it being much harder to forget to remove them when each hand is holding one.

Regards


----------



## DavidR8

hman said:


> Jaws on a 4-jaw chuck are not only interchangeable, but also reversible without any problems or worries.


I figured this out on the weekend after spending ten minutes looking for the second set of jaws...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## yendor

Gaffer said:


> I'm not sure about the jaws having to be in the same position. I remember watching a Joe Pie video on 3-jaw chucks, and I believe he said it mattered that the jaws stayed in sequential order. Meaning as long as you know which jaws are 1, 2 & 3, jaw #1 could go into any of the slots. What mattered was that jaw's 2 and 3 followed in sequential order. I should think the same would apply to a 4-jaw, and I'm curious what our more experienced folks have to say. My jaws and chuck are stamped so I keep them in their marked positions.



They should be fine. 
The 4 jaws are independently adjusted to center your parts.
With the 3 jaw each has an OFFSET for the scroll so they come together at the same time.
If one was out of sequence your would see a gap when fully closed.


----------



## Gaffer

yendor said:


> They should be fine.
> The 4 jaws are independently adjusted to center your parts.
> With the 3 jaw each has an OFFSET for the scroll so they come together at the same time.
> If one was out of sequence your would see a gap when fully closed.


That makes sense. Thank you.


----------



## Gaffer

I have a Lincoln 125 plus for mig, and a Vulcan Pro Tig 165, but it's DC only. It was only $170 at HF on an open box return deal. It was complete, works great, and had the normal warranty, but no AC. For the money, I couldn't say no. I've wanted an AC tig machine for future projects and just plain messing around, and always figured I buy an inverter machine one day. Then this came along on CL and for the price, I struck. It's a Lincoln Precision Tig 185 with a Weldtec water cooler. It came with everything but the argon, but I have a large bottle already. It is clean and well-cared for. I may not be able to run it full throttle because I only ran #6 wire to my welder outlet, but I think/hope it will be fine. I'm just a hobby, futz around guy gearing up for my car restorations. I know this isn't the crowd to ask for an intervention, but my small shop, the single car side of my 3-car garage, is full. Next summer, I plan to pour some concrete and put in as large a shed as my HOA will allow. I don't think they'll be too generous, but the answer is no until I ask.


----------



## mmcmdl

devils4ever said:


> Quick question: are the jaws interchangeable?



If they're independent , it doesn't matter . On a 4 jaw scroll  it does .


----------



## sycle1

New MT3 50mm carbide Face mill 
	

		
			
		

		
	



It might help me make some chips or a mess depends which way you look at it I guess!

And My new Motor Sabertooth 2x32 controller for the Remote control mower arrived!


----------



## erikmannie

A 2-day Oxyacetylene Welding class, an MT4/MT3 adapter, a gallon of dark screw cutting oil, and a 3 phase, 30A circuit breaker breaker and plug.

The gas welding class is in Oakland, CA the weekend before Thanksgiving. Only 3 spots left. The instructor Ana is top notch. Maybe one of you wants to take the class. Fire is fun!









						Industrial Art Classes in Oakland | Oxy-acetylene Welding
					

Welding with heat produced by burning gases is one of the oldest methods of welding, dating back to ancient Greece. In this course, students will be introduced to the gas burning torch, learning to control gases and use heat to cut, braze, and weld steel. The class begins with a collection of...




					www.thecrucible.org


----------



## Diecutter

I just received my flash arrestors  and check valves in the mail. Just have to install them today.  Bought my torches and tanks in 1960 and have been using them without arresters since then; Seems I would be pushing my luck to put them off further.


----------



## DavidR8

Found this on our local Used.com site. 
$20, rebuilt. 






And picked up a couple of DIs from Lee Valley. 






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## francist

I have a slew of those indicators from Lee Valley — they work fine and many of them I’ve had for years. What I specifically like is the small dial reads the full 1-9 as opposed to the ones that make two revolutions for the full travel.

-frank


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> I have a slew of those indicators from Lee Valley — they work fine and many of them I’ve had for years. What I specifically like is the small dial reads the full 1-9 as opposed to the ones that make two revolutions for the full travel.
> 
> -frank



One of your past posts was the inspiration 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Papa Charlie

I have been looking for a belt and disc sander for some time. Too many are priced rediculously. But this popped up on CL on Thursday, I was finally the first to call and got it for $100. It is sold by HF by the time it is delivered you are going to pay $350. So I am very happy.

This unit is in like new condition. I am very pleased. I forgot to take a picture of it before I put it in to my storage unit. But here is the factory image.

I am going to find a used VFD to wire into it so I can control the speed.


----------



## addertooth

Devils4Ever,
I second the motion of making another Key for your 4-Jaw Chuck, but for a different reason.  I got that chuck recently as well, and the flats on the key appeared to have been squished/forged instead of machined, and are *not* a precision fit.  The slop will encourage them stripping.   A replacement key is on my list of first projects to do once my Mill is set up.


----------



## extropic

Papa Charlie said:


> I have been looking for a belt and disc sander for some time. Too many are priced rediculously. But this popped up on CL on Thursday, I was finally the first to call and got it for $100. It is sold by HF by the time it is delivered you are going to pay $350. So I am very happy.
> 
> This unit is in like new condition. I am very pleased. I forgot to take a picture of it before I put it in to my storage unit. But here is the factory image.
> 
> I am going to find a used VFD to wire into it so I can control the speed.
> 
> View attachment 342696




You say you're going to power it with a VFD ???

I wasn't aware that HF sold anything powered by a 3 Phase motor.

Is that machine 3 Phase?


----------



## Papa Charlie

extropic said:


> You say you're going to power it with a VFD ???
> 
> I wasn't aware that HF sold anything powered by a 3 Phase motor.
> 
> Is that machine 3 Phase?



I am no expert, but I have been told you can run the single phase motor with a VFD and control the speed. Not all VFDs convert from single phase to three phase. 
But I have some more research to do.


----------



## extropic

This research explains my understanding of the issue.

What ever you do, don't let the magic smoke escape.


----------



## Weldingrod1

I have seen specialty vfd's that hook into both the main and start windings on a single phase motor and run them... but it's been a while.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## middle.road

Straightening out the storage room in the basement and I came across two boxes from an estate sale quite a while back.
Memory fade?

This was in one of them. Check out the price!




Nice metal case. 
Neat can of oil. 
Anyone know what 'NITRO POWDER SOLVENT' is?





Only thing is, I don't own a .30 cal rifle. . .


----------



## extropic

middle.road said:


> snip>
> Anyone know what 'NITRO POWDER SOLVENT' is?
> <snip



Nitro Powder solvent is (was?) for cleaning guns using modern smokeless powder. The "Nitro" is intended to differentiate it from "Black" powder.
I don't know if anybody still calls there solvent "Nitro".


----------



## addertooth

Modern gunpowder is known to chemists as "Nitro Cellulose" or Guncotton based propellent.  It is made by soaking cotton in a mixture of nitric and sulphuric acid.  

The solvent is for removing traces of the gunpowder from the bore.   A different solvent is used for Black Powder.


----------



## BGHansen

Couple of pick-ups off eBay.  First was a lifetime supply of 5/8" copper rod stock.  A lot of my work involves spot welding sheet metal.  My welder uses 5/8" diameter tips of which I've made many of over the years.  I've made ones with offset points so I can get right up to the edge of a box (for example).  I recall paying around $35 (with shipping) for a 1 foot length of either 101 or 110 copper from On Line Metals years ago.  I had maybe 3" left of the original rod, so jumped on a buy it now for $30 shipped for this stock.

I don't do a lot of pipe threading though I recently did some work on 1/2" black pipe to add a nice heater to my shop.  I have a hand pipe threader for 1/2" and 3/4" pipe, these dies are for 1/8", 1/4" and 3/8" so pretty set now for doing pipe.

Thanks for looking.

Bruce


Lifetime supply of 5/8" copper rod for making spot welding tips for my welder.





1/8", 1/4" and 3/8" pipe dies


----------



## NCjeeper

I scored this cool old? Pratt & Whitney indicator off of E-bay. No numbers or other marks on it. Anybody have an old P&W catalog that could look this thing up?


----------



## Aaron_W

addertooth said:


> Modern gunpowder is known to chemists as "Nitro Cellulose" or Guncotton based propellent.  It is made by soaking cotton in a mixture of nitric and sulphuric acid.
> 
> The solvent is for removing traces of the gunpowder from the bore.   A different solvent is used for Black Powder.



Makes me wonder how old that set is, it sounds like term "nitro" for smokeless powders went out of style around WW2. 

Blackpowder can be cleaned with water.


----------



## DavidR8

NCjeeper said:


> I scored this cool old? Pratt & Whitney indicator off of E-bay. No numbers or other marks on it. Anybody have an old P&W catalog that could look this thing up?
> View attachment 342985
> 
> View attachment 342986


Very cool, that's like a large print book version of an indicator. Just my speed!


----------



## NCjeeper

DavidR8 said:


> Very cool, that's like a large print book version of an indicator. Just my speed!


Yeah I didnt expect it to be this large. I will have to make some sort of comparator stand for it.


----------



## pontiac428

Aaron_W said:


> Makes me wonder how old that set is, it sounds like term "nitro" for smokeless powders went out of style around WW2.
> 
> Blackpowder can be cleaned with water.



I agree, but the term is still used.  I think of nitro solvents as analine, nitrobenzene, and other nitrogenous solvents.  That's what nitro solvent usually gets you at a hardware store, or at least it used to.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Papa Charlie said:


> I am no expert, but I have been told you can run the single phase motor with a VFD and control the speed. Not all VFDs convert from single phase to three phase.
> But I have some more research to do.



In the first place, an "expert" being divided into two distinct sounds, that being "ex" and "spert" yields the following definitions. "Ex" as in a 'has been' and ""Spert" being a 'drip under pressure'. Which definitely fits my opinion of "expert" opinions.

That being said, I have worked in the industrial side of electricity and electronics far longer than small computers have been around. Am I then an "expert"? See the definition above. . . I specifically deny being an expert. Take my word with that in mind.

*In answer to your question: *
It is possible but not very practical to overspeed. The "overhead" cost of such an operation would far exceed that of replacing the motor with a 3 phase one. Running *above* base speed would not be too much of a problem. No more than a 3 phase motor not designed for such use. But I don't see much use for running above base. Most times we are trying to reduce speed.

In running *below* base speed however there are several factors to consider. First and foremost is the centrifugal switch and starting capacitor. The entire starting network would need to be switched out of service when the motor was running. It would be possible to do externally with a "speed switch" adjusted to low enough speed. Or with a timer, or even by hand if you watched close and operated it fast enough.

Another factor is that while a 3 phase motor creates a "rotating magnetic field" inside the stator, a single phase motor does not. A single phase motor has a magnetic field that flip-flops back and forth and depends in the inertia of the rotor speed to get any practical use from the field. The start winding and capacitor provide, temporarily, a second phase to allow starting. I will refer you to the following posting to give some insight there.



			http://www.hudsontelcom.com/uploads/ShopElex.pdf
		


Consider that while the 3 phase motor has their rotating magnetic field being slowed down, the single phase motor is simply flip-flopping back and forth at lower speed. The 3 phase motor can maintain its' torque down to near zero speed by altering the curve of current flow. Railroad locomotive AC power is an extreme example of this. But no amount of current alteration will make up for that single phase flip-flopping. The slowest I ran a single phase motor "reliably" in my experiments was at 50 cycles. And that caused significant heating. One _might_ go to 40 cycles with sufficient cooling air flow. I didn't try it. . . An external fan was necessary at 50 cycles. I didn't have the capacity to "force feed" cooling air.

Then there is the loss of power. At low speed, a single phase motor has no usable torque. I don't have a "prony brake" as such, but simulating one with a cobbled together mish mash of wood I was able to stall the 2 pole motor used in my experiments. Not for long though, the motor is still usable at 60 cycles. But enough to convince me that such experiments were a dead end.

I will ask that you keep in mind that my experiments were not scientific, there were no measurements made and no records kept. Just an old man scratching an itch. Unsuccessfully, I might add.

Bill Hudson​


----------



## Papa Charlie

Bi11Hudson said:


> In the first place, an "expert" being divided into two distinct sounds, that being "ex" and "spert" yields the following definitions. "Ex" as in a 'has been' and ""Spert" being a 'drip under pressure'. Which definitely fits my opinion of "expert" opinions.
> 
> That being said, I have worked in the industrial side of electricity and electronics far longer than small computers have been around. Am I then an "expert"? See the definition above. . . I specifically deny being an expert. Take my word with that in mind.
> 
> *In answer to your question: *
> It is possible but not very practical to overspeed. The "overhead" cost of such an operation would far exceed that of replacing the motor with a 3 phase one. Running *above* base speed would not be too much of a problem. No more than a 3 phase motor not designed for such use. But I don't see much use for running above base. Most times we are trying to reduce speed.
> 
> In running *below* base speed however there are several factors to consider. First and foremost is the centrifugal switch and starting capacitor. The entire starting network would need to be switched out of service when the motor was running. It would be possible to do externally with a "speed switch" adjusted to low enough speed. Or with a timer, or even by hand if you watched close and operated it fast enough.
> 
> Another factor is that while a 3 phase motor creates a "rotating magnetic field" inside the stator, a single phase motor does not. A single phase motor has a magnetic field that flip-flops back and forth and depends in the inertia of the rotor speed to get any practical use from the field. The start winding and capacitor provide, temporarily, a second phase to allow starting. I will refer you to the following posting to give some insight there.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.hudsontelcom.com/uploads/ShopElex.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> Consider that while the 3 phase motor has their rotating magnetic field being slowed down, the single phase motor is simply flip-flopping back and forth at lower speed. The 3 phase motor can maintain its' torque down to near zero speed by altering the curve of current flow. Railroad locomotive AC power is an extreme example of this. But no amount of current alteration will make up for that single phase flip-flopping. The slowest I ran a single phase motor "reliably" in my experiments was at 50 cycles. And that caused significant heating. One _might_ go to 40 cycles with sufficient cooling air flow. I didn't try it. . . An external fan was necessary at 50 cycles. I didn't have the capacity to "force feed" cooling air.
> 
> Then there is the loss of power. At low speed, a single phase motor has no usable torque. I don't have a "prony brake" as such, but simulating one with a cobbled together mish mash of wood I was able to stall the 2 pole motor used in my experiments. Not for long though, the motor is still usable at 60 cycles. But enough to convince me that such experiments were a dead end.
> 
> I will ask that you keep in mind that my experiments were not scientific, there were no measurements made and no records kept. Just an old man scratching an itch. Unsuccessfully, I might add.
> 
> Bill Hudson​



Thank you for the detailed and well written explanation.

You are confirming what I have read, following some of the links provided above. I was misinformed and glad that I got the right info before I wasted any money or time on it. I had one belt sander year ago that I installed an industrial DC Perminant Magnet motor from an industrial sewing machine with a speed control on it. It was great and had good torque the entire range of speeds. I may keep my eye out for another one but for now, I am good with it the way it is.


----------



## ACHiPo

Picked up a set of 0.011 - 0.250 gage pins from CDCO.  The 0.251-0.500 set is backordered.


----------



## matthewsx

Picked up this medical instrument cabinet yesterday that fits perfectly between my roll-away toolboxes. The guy had it listed for months and finally dropped his price, I paid $40  






I figure the medical grade isolation transformer is worth that alone....

John


----------



## pontiac428

I pulled my stuff out of storage and moved it into my new shop this weekend.  A lot of my tools were looking pretty sad, including my trusty old Jackson auto-darkening hood.  I've wanted to replace it, since it is 1st gen technology and I've had it since the 1990s.

Lots of people have said good things about the Lincoln Viking 3350 4C, so that's what I ordered.  It was less than half of the cost of Optrel, and the current Jackson and Miller offerings seem to have fallen behind the curve.  I guess I can live with myself for buying from stinkin' Lincoln, so long as I can cover the badges with stickers of my choosing.


----------



## Gaffer

pontiac428 said:


> I pulled my stuff out of storage and moved it into my new shop this weekend.  A lot of my tools were looking pretty sad, including my trusty old Jackson auto-darkening hood.  I've wanted to replace it, since it is 1st gen technology and I've had it since the 1990s.
> 
> Lots of people have said good things about the Lincoln Viking 3350 4C, so that's what I ordered.  It was less than half of the cost of Optrel, and the current Jackson and Miller offerings seem to have fallen behind the curve.  I guess I can live with myself for buying from stinkin' Lincoln, so long as I can cover the badges with stickers of my choosing.


You're going to love it. I replaced my Jackson with the Lincoln - night and day difference.


----------



## Aaron_W

pontiac428 said:


> I pulled my stuff out of storage and moved it into my new shop this weekend.  A lot of my tools were looking pretty sad, including my trusty old Jackson auto-darkening hood.  I've wanted to replace it, since it is 1st gen technology and I've had it since the 1990s.
> 
> Lots of people have said good things about the Lincoln Viking 3350 4C, so that's what I ordered.  It was less than half of the cost of Optrel, and the current Jackson and Miller offerings seem to have fallen behind the curve.  I guess I can live with myself for buying from stinkin' Lincoln, so long as I can cover the badges with stickers of my choosing.



I've been looking at a Lincoln 3350 too, I've got an ok generic auto darkening helmet but seeing better has to help my meager skills. I'd love one of the Optrels but can't convince myself to spend the $450, $220 is a lot easier to swallow. 

I've had the 3350 in my cart half a dozen times over the past couple months, but I keep waffling. Using a Lincoln helmet with a Miller welder just seems like it is tempting the welding gods.


----------



## DavidR8

Aaron_W said:


> I've been looking at a Lincoln 3350 too, I've got an ok generic auto darkening helmet but seeing better has to help my meager skills. I'd love one of the Optrels but can't convince myself to spend the $450, $220 is a lot easier to swallow.
> 
> I've had the 3350 in my cart half a dozen times over the past couple months, but I keep waffling. Using a Lincoln helmet with a Miller welder just seems like it is tempting the welding gods.


If you don't want to upset the welding gods try an Esab. I'm really happy with my Savage A40.


----------



## pontiac428

It's worth mentioning that I ordered my new hood from Baker's Gas and Welding Supplies.  I had a coupon plus free ship, so the 3350 cost $200 delivered.  This was after ordering tig rod storage tubes at $100 for 10 including shipping, making them cheaper than Amazon and eBay by a margin of 4 extra tubes!


----------



## NCjeeper

That is a deal on storage tubes.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

bought about a 100 AXA tool holders in waiting (large 1 1/2" thick block of steel in the center of the pic). Also got a nice big sheet of alu for making a backsplash for my South Bend (on left, against the wall). I wondered why I was having trouble lifting that block into and out of the car until I saw the scrap yard receipt - that block and the 2 pieces of steel in the pic below weighed 118lb!!



some more scrap (3/8" and 1" stainless, 1 1/8 and 2 1/4" steel and alu angle) for I don't know what



a collection of lathe dogs, one of which is larger than my head



12 28" ball bearing drawer slides

And a nice 1/2hp 3ph motor and fan that I swapped with the previous owner of my lathe for the rest of the bits (main castings) of the steady rest that I didn't have



cost? 145lb of scrap and $46  I had a really good day yesterday


----------



## BGHansen

Few recent Ebay pick ups.  First was a 110V sheet metal shear.  I have a same-style Harbor Freight pneumatic shear, a 110V Beverly style shear, and an air nibbler, wanted the 110V of this style as it's easier for me to run an extension cord than an air hose.  This style shear is great for long, straight cuts.  The cutter is below the surface, two fixed shear blades above.  The kerf is a curly-Q pressed up at the center.  It can make a turn, but it's much better at straight only.  Paid $40 including shipping.








I bought a set of 3 Huot drill indexes to replace some plastic tray organizers for my A-Z, 1-60, and 1/16" - 1/2" drill bits.  Yes, I have a case of OCD and realized I only had 2-4 of a number (sic) of the numbered drill bit sizes.  Shopped at eBay seller "ztsupply" for what I needed.  You never know if you'll need 10 #53 drill bits. . .

Thanks for looking, Bruce


Really like these Huot drill bit organizers.  I have at least 8 of every size except for a number of 1-60 drill bits.  Ebay seller ztsupply to the rescue!


----------



## finsruskw

Snagged a nice set of new Starrett pin punches sans pouch for my sons Christmas present.
My wife can stitch up a nice pouch for them.
Also new, a 154a and a 154b split parallel that will live in my tool box.


----------



## Jim F

Just got this today. $75.


----------



## 682bear

Last week I picked up an old Cincinnati #2ML universal horizontal mill off of Craigslist. Other than being pretty nasty, it seems to be in decent condition...







It came with one arbor, the arbor support, an original service and parts manual, and the wiring diagram blueprint.
	

		
			
		

		
	




Yes, I do have all the handles... I had to remove them in order to squeeze it into my basement.

It is currently wired for 440v... I have a thread started in the electrical section about converting it to 220v if anyone wants to read it and offer advice.

-Bear


----------



## Papa Charlie

I purchased an Optical Center Punch off Amazon this weekend. Also I purchased a bunch of Morse Taper drill bits from one of our members here. Sorry didn't take a picture of the drill which number 22 from 1/2" to 1-1/4". I haven't received the center punch yet, but here is a stock image of it.


----------



## Aukai

I got drill bits too, mine are reduced shank. 29 lbs worth  from 33/64 to 1 1/2 with some duplicates.


----------



## brino

682bear said:


> Last week I picked up an old Cincinnati #2ML universal horizontal mill off of Craigslist.



Very nice!
Any idea the year of the machine?
What's the spindle taper?

I uploaded some manuals here:
Cincinnati Milling Machine 2ML 2MI 3MI Service and Parts 1953
Cincinnati_#2_3_HighPower_PartsServ_S-335-1
Cincinnati - A treatise on milling and milling machines 1916

-brino


----------



## Scra99tch

$100 Came with a tail-stock and two plates.  Fairly decent condition not frozen, up very light surface rust.


----------



## 682bear

brino said:


> Very nice!
> Any idea the year of the machine?
> What's the spindle taper?
> 
> I uploaded some manuals here:
> Cincinnati Milling Machine 2ML 2MI 3MI Service and Parts 1953
> Cincinnati_#2_3_HighPower_PartsServ_S-335-1
> Cincinnati - A treatise on milling and milling machines 1916
> 
> -brino



I don't really know what year it was made.... I'm guessing early to mid 1950's, but that is just a guess. I do know that it was purchased new by the company that I bought it from.

It has an NMTB50 spindle... I already had a couple of NMTB40 arbors, so I'm going to be looking for a NMTB50 to NMTB40 adapter... from what I'm seeing, they are hard to find.

-Bear


----------



## eugene13

I sold a bunch of my Pinto junk and bought a self centering vice for round stock.


----------



## matthewsx

Picked up this survivor Waterloo Toolchest for $75, guy I got it from said he's had it since he was 15-years-old.




John


----------



## DavidR8

matthewsx said:


> Picked up this survivor Waterloo Toolchest for $75, guy I got it from said he's had it since he was 15-years-old.
> 
> View attachment 343652
> 
> 
> John



Good deal John!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## matthewsx

DavidR8 said:


> Good deal John!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sometimes you get lucky


----------



## DavidR8

matthewsx said:


> Sometimes you get lucky



Nice Kennedy setup in the background!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 682bear

matthewsx said:


> Picked up this survivor Waterloo Toolchest for $75, guy I got it from said he's had it since he was 15-years-old.
> 
> View attachment 343652
> 
> 
> John




That was made back when Waterloo boxes were better quality... $75? Thats a good deal!

-Bear


----------



## matthewsx

DavidR8 said:


> Nice Kennedy setup in the background!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The bottom Kennedy was my dad's


----------



## Papa Charlie

matthewsx said:


> The bottom Kennedy was my dad's



Even better!


----------



## BGHansen

Took a risk on a couple of micrometers on eBay for $40 delivered.  One is a Fowler electronic digital 0-1.2", other a mechanical-digital Fowler 0-1" screw pitch.  Just my personal preference, but I like the mechanical-digital mic's over the electronic ones.  The electronic one was sold as non-working.  Screw pitch was missing all of the anvils (5 sets of 2).  

I have two metal lathes:  Grizzly G0709 14" x 40" and a Clausing 5418 12" x 24".  They each have their own tool carts which are both similarly stocked.  Both started out with Shars 0-1" screw pitch mic's.  I picked up a set of Fowler mechanical-digit a few months ago for the Grizzly, have been shopping for one for the Clausing (yes, OCD).  There were a few options on eBay for about $175, but I got the one for the Grizzly at under $75 as I recall.

When this pair of mic's showed up I checked if the Shars thread anvils would fit in my Fowler mic; they did.  So I did the Buy It Now and got them both today.  The electronic one works IF I hold the battery against the contacts.  I'll do a little work with a strip of brass for a contact and it'll be fine.  Transferred over the anvils from the Shars to the Fowler, now both lathes are equally equipped.  I'll hang onto the Shars vernier-style just in case one of the digitals craps out.

Thanks for looking,

Bruce


$40 delivered off eBay.  Sold as parts/not working



My Clausing had a Shars 0-1" thread pitch mic



Moved the anvils over from the Shars to the Fowler, now have two mechanical-digital mics.



Electronic Fowler works, but needs some contact help


----------



## Papa Charlie

Nice Bruce, those are some good looking mics.


----------



## hman

Congratulations.  Ya got 'em at a great price.  I like your practice of having a "full set of tools" dedicated to and close by each machine.  Been trying to do that myself.


----------



## DavidR8

Couple of things ‘fell’ into my KBC cart while shopping for tools to complete my mill alignment guide build. 
Thanks for the Noga recommendation @mikey, I’m very impressed with the fit and finish. And I got it for 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## francist

Nice! I have that same stand and really like it. Super solid and very slick to adjust 

-frank


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> Nice! I have that same stand and really like it. Super solid and very slick to adjust
> 
> -frank



I’ll admit that I was somewhat skeptical because the two arm stand that I have is effectively useless because it either doesn’t work with my indicators or is so difficult to use that it just doesn’t matter. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 7milesup

DavidR8 said:


> Couple of things ‘fell’ into my KBC cart while shopping for tools to complete my mill alignment guide build.
> Thanks for the Noga recommendation @mikey, I’m very impressed with the fit and finish. And I got it for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I have the same stand.  I got the same advice from Mikey.   Isn't it great how guys help spend our money.  At least you got yours out of the box.  Mine is still in the box.  LOL


----------



## 7milesup

BGHansen said:


> Took a risk on a couple of micrometers on eBay for $40 delivered.  One is a Fowler electronic digital 0-1.2", other a mechanical-digital Fowler 0-1" screw pitch.  Just my personal preference, but I like the mechanical-digital mic's over the electronic ones.  The electronic one was sold as non-working.  Screw pitch was missing all of the anvils (5 sets of 2).
> 
> I have two metal lathes:  Grizzly G0709 14" x 40" and a Clausing 5418 12" x 24".  They each have their own tool carts which are both similarly stocked.  Both started out with Shars 0-1" screw pitch mic's.  I picked up a set of Fowler mechanical-digit a few months ago for the Grizzly, have been shopping for one for the Clausing (yes, OCD).  There were a few options on eBay for about $175, but I got the one for the Grizzly at under $75 as I recall.
> 
> When this pair of mic's showed up I checked if the Shars thread anvils would fit in my Fowler mic; they did.  So I did the Buy It Now and got them both today.  The electronic one works IF I hold the battery against the contacts.  I'll do a little work with a strip of brass for a contact and it'll be fine.  Transferred over the anvils from the Shars to the Fowler, now both lathes are equally equipped.  I'll hang onto the Shars vernier-style just in case one of the digitals craps out.
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Bruce
> 
> 
> $40 delivered off eBay.  Sold as parts/not working
> View attachment 343696
> 
> 
> My Clausing had a Shars 0-1" thread pitch mic
> View attachment 343697
> 
> 
> Moved the anvils over from the Shars to the Fowler, now have two mechanical-digital mics.
> View attachment 343698
> 
> 
> Electronic Fowler works, but needs some contact help
> View attachment 343699



Nice Bruce.  I have the 0-1" Mitutoyo "mechanical-digital" mic.  Just bought the 1-2" on an auction and going to pick it up on Friday when I go pick up my shaper.  No, not a metal shaper but a Jet wood shaper.


----------



## mikey

DavidR8 said:


> Couple of things ‘fell’ into my KBC cart while shopping for tools to complete my mill alignment guide build.
> Thanks for the Noga recommendation @mikey, I’m very impressed with the fit and finish. And I got it for



You're welcome, Dave. You got two good tools there. I have the Starrett 91A, B and C and really like them.


----------



## Watchwatch

7milesup said:


> Nice Bruce. I have the 0-1" Mitutoyo "mechanical-digital" mic. Just bought the 1-2" on an auction and going to pick it up on Friday when I go pick up my shaper. No, not a metal shaper but a Jet wood shaper.



I prefer the mechanical digital mics as well. Much faster to read when you aren’t chasing tenths. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## finsruskw

DavidR8
Tell/show me more about that tap wrench.


----------



## DavidR8

finsruskw said:


> DavidR8
> Tell/show me more about that tap wrench.



It’s a Starrett 91B which will accept taps from 3/16” to 1/2”. 
There’s also the 91A with a capacity for 1/16”-1/4” taps. 
These two cover the small end of tap sizes for me. For anything over 1/2” I have a Patience and Nicholson tap and die set which has a stout tap wrench.


----------



## 682bear

Its a sickness...

I brought home another Hendey this afternoon... it is a 14x6, serial number 23676. I'm guessing maybe early 1920's?

It seems to be in pretty good condition mechanically, there is one gear with one broken tooth, (I haven't dug into it to check all of the gears yet, though) but it came with about 6 extra gears and one of the extras is identical to the broken one. The tailstock handwheel has been broken and brazed, it is functional, but not pretty, and the crossfeed handle has been replaced with a non-original handwheel.

It is not a very nice looking lathe... the seller bought it out of a barn. He said at some point in its history, it had been painted with latex housepaint. He removed all the latex, but didn't get around to repainting it.

The spindle turns very smooth and tight, and all the feeds work well. It came with a 2 hp 2 speed 230v 3 phase motor and a Turner Uni-Drive 4 speed transmission which all works as it should.
















This may be my 'winter project'... teardown, clean, paint, repair, and reassembly... it looks like I'll be busy.

Mr. Whoopee is keeping me busy with his Craigslist ad posts!

-Bear


----------



## pontiac428

Today, I realized I have 14 jack stands. I'm going to have to think about that for a sec.



OOPS!  I thought I was in the what did you do in your shop today thread.  I bought all these at some point, just not today.


----------



## Dhal22

pontiac428 said:


> Today, I realized I have 14 jack stands. I'm going to have to think about that for a sec.
> View attachment 343945
> 
> 
> OOPS!  I thought I was in the what did you do in your shop today thread.  I bought all these at some point, just not today.




It could be 15 stands.........................


----------



## 682bear

pontiac428 said:


> Today, I realized I have 14 jack stands. I'm going to have to think about that for a sec.
> View attachment 343945
> 
> 
> OOPS!  I thought I was in the what did you do in your shop today thread.  I bought all these at some point, just not today.



You need 2 more...

-Bear


----------



## NCjeeper

That's ok Pontiac. I have 10 I think.


----------



## hman

@682bear - That's a mighty stout looking set of gears!  And a HUGE tool post!!!  Hope you're able find a nice couple of matching handwheels for the cross slide and tailstock.  Too bad about the "missing tooth" on the quick change gear box ... probably not a functional issue, but it just looks odd ... and difficult to repair.


----------



## 7milesup

Picked up this Mitutoyo 1"-2" digital mechanical micrometer.   Looks like it is great shape.  $60.  It will compliment the 0"-1" Mitutoyo that I already have.


----------



## 7milesup

On a different auction I picked up a small Jet shaper.  I have been wanting one for quite some time but the right opportunity never came up.  There was a similar Grizzly shaper that sold on an auction earlier this year for more new.  Crazy...
So the equivalent Grizzly is about $750 plus shipping.  The Jet model is $1300-$1400 for the model I bought.  I paid $305 at the auction.  The auction pictures had just the shaper pictured.  I really wanted a 1/2" router collet so that I could run all of my 1/2" shank router bits in it.  Much to my surprise, there was a box included with the shaper that was not in the auction pictures. It had both 1/4" & 1/2" collets, along with a 3/4" arbor.  Some extra cutters and all the original accessories, even the original manual.  Yippeeee!   I was super happy.  Oh, also had a mobile base, but I will probably build a custom one for it.  I don't like those universal bases.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a 4 piece drift key set for the purpose of knocking tapered shank drills out of MT adapters. It was $25 delivered.


----------



## addertooth

It is not sexy, but it was needed.  I got a 40 foot 8 gauge 3 conductor extension cord.
The Seller is BougeRV, but don't let the name fool you; it is based out of China.

It remains to be seen if it is really as heavy as 8 gauge.


----------



## finsruskw

DavidR8 said:


> It’s a Starrett 91B which will accept taps from 3/16” to 1/2”.
> There’s also the 91A with a capacity for 1/16”-1/4” taps.
> These two cover the small end of tap sizes for me. For anything over 1/2” I have a Patience and Nicholson tap and die set which has a stout tap wrench.


Thanks Dave!
Just picked one up off Amazon to replace the crappy one that came with a Craftsman set I have had for a few years.
Should be here next week sometime.


----------



## DavidR8

finsruskw said:


> Thanks Dave!
> Just picked one up off Amazon to replace the crappy one that came with a Craftsman set I have had for a few years.
> Should be here next week sometime.



Excellent!
I used mine a bunch yesterday to tap some parts. Very happy with it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jbobb1

Rapid Air Maxline


----------



## Buffalo21

I did the Max-Line conversion in the shop in the last year or so, a great upgrade.


----------



## jbobb1

I'm looking forward to the install, but unfortunately, there's a few tasks ahead of it.


----------



## FOMOGO

Picked up this pair of magnetic V-blocks. Put them on the mill table, and when activated they are immovable. Large V on one side, small V on the other. I think they are going to be a pretty nice piece of kit to have on hand. Mike


----------



## rwm

7milesup said:


> On a different auction I picked up a small Jet shaper.



Why would a shaper have reverse? Mine does not?
Robert


----------



## 7milesup

rwm said:


> Why would a shaper have reverse? Mine does not?
> Robert



Ha!   Dang good question.  I don't know why it would.  To top it all off, to run the bit in the "correct" direction, I need to have it in reverse.  I am going to have to look into rewiring the motor because it sure seems backwards to me.


----------



## 7milesup

^^^  Figured it out RWM with a little google search ^^^
Some folks turn the cutter upside down and run the wood under the cutter from left to right looking at the shaper.  I would only do that if I had a power feeder on it because if it lifts, your work is ruined.  The other reason is for climb cutting to get a better finish, but again, that would be a huge no-no without power feed.


----------



## Jackle1312

Reverse also allows you to set up the cutters different ways depending on the profile. Also allows you to feed from the best side if you are running a large pile. I have seen what happens when you climb cut since we have a hole in a door 30 feet away from one of the shapers.


----------



## Aaron_W

Just picked up a nice sturdy work table for $45. I have been planing to build one, but I saw this it is exactly the right length to fit and I couldn't buy the lumber for that price. 
4x4 legs with a 1-1/8" plywood top. The drawer is divided with a lift out tray. It needs just a little work but is quite solid, and should clean up well.


----------



## finsruskw

Looks like an old library table
Had one just like it for years


----------



## vtcnc

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## finsruskw

You bought a box???!!!  
Let's see what was in it!!


----------



## Janderso

DavidR8 said:


> Couple of things ‘fell’ into my KBC cart while shopping for tools to complete my mill alignment guide build.
> Thanks for the Noga recommendation @mikey, I’m very impressed with the fit and finish. And I got it for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


David,
I bought the 91B and 91C. I found I had to take it apart, clean the grit, polish the tip for smooth action and now they are beautifully smooth.
Love the Noga and Starret anything is lovely.


----------



## Janderso

Ebay find.


----------



## 7milesup

vtcnc said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I have two Wilton vises.  One is a 1951 and the other a 1954.  Both bullet vises.  In the process of restoring one of them.


----------



## DavidR8

Janderso said:


> David,
> I bought the 91B and 91C. I found I had to take it apart, clean the grit, polish the tip for smooth action and now they are beautifully smooth.
> Love the Noga and Starret anything is lovely.


I did find the threads on the 91B were a bit sticky so I will disassemble and clean. I love they way it holds the tap so securely. Such a massive difference from my other 'tap holder'.


----------



## Janderso

DavidR8 said:


> I did find the threads on the 91B were a bit sticky so I will disassemble and clean. I love they way it holds the tap so securely. Such a massive difference from my other 'tap holder'.


Between the Starret tap handles and quality spiral flute taps, world of difference.


----------



## vtcnc

finsruskw said:


> You bought a box???!!!
> Let's see what was in it!!



Oh! Sorry....





Hehehehe


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Janderso

Come on man, go all the way.


----------



## vtcnc

Janderso said:


> Come on man, go all the way.








6” Bench Vise. Been looking for a big vise on FB and CL. I stumbled across this on Amazon, 50%off and a $60 instant off if I sign my little soul away and get the Amazon card. Free Prime shipping. $67 total cost!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Braeden P

Janderso said:


> Ebay find.


i saw those exact ones on flea bay i was going to get them but im not good at german.


----------



## Superburban

vtcnc said:


> 6” Bench Vise. Been looking for a big vise on FB and CL. I stumbled across this on Amazon, 50%off and a $60 instant off if I sign my little soul away and get the Amazon card. Free Prime shipping. $67 total cost!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hope you are left handed, they sent you a left handed version.


----------



## NCjeeper

DavidR8 said:


> I did find the threads on the 91B were a bit sticky so I will disassemble and clean. I love they way it holds the tap so securely. Such a massive difference from my other 'tap holder'.


Yeah the Starrett ones are the ones I grab first.


----------



## Aaron_W

finsruskw said:


> Looks like an old library table
> Had one just like it for years



It seems pretty massive for books, must have come from the Hogwart's Library for those giant books on Wizarding.


----------



## rwm

How is the fit and quality of these new Wilton vises anyway? 
Robert


----------



## jbobb1

vtcnc said:


> 6” Bench Vise. Been looking for a big vise on FB and CL. I stumbled across this on Amazon, 50%off and a $60 instant off if I sign my little soul away and get the Amazon card. Free Prime shipping. $67 total cost!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Nice deal!
I'm so close to doing the same.


----------



## finsruskw

Purtty Purtty!!
Got one similar to yours only the nut is broken on the inside.
I think I can get a nut from Mc Master Carr and machine the mount for it the weld the nut to the new part.


----------



## vtcnc

rwm said:


> How is the fit and quality of these new Wilton vises anyway?
> Robert


I'll install it later this week and give an update. Online reviews are promising. I'm kind of kicking myself. Amazon had a similar deal for their 8" reversible jaw. An absolute monster! Total cost would have been just a little over $125. I went back to it the next day and "settled" for this deal, which I'm still very happy about.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

wasn't really looking for this stuff, but at this price it was hard to pass up:

scherr-tumico 0-12" depth mic (I have a 0-225mm Starrett)



Mitutuyo combi mike. Something funky is going on with the digit counter, but I'll have a look tomorrow



Yuasa made in Japan 0-1" dial indicator



and a Craftsman garage creeper for working on the car.

All for $60


----------



## DiscoDan

Just found this 2 inch Buck chuck in a bunch of stuff I bought.


----------



## hman

@mattthemuppet2 - Strange mike indeed ... the digits read millimeters, while the barrel reads inches.  Must have some INCREDIBLY complex gearing for both of 'em to be correct.


----------



## francist

I have a 3” - 4” like that with the inch spindle and metric digit counter. By the box, Mitutoyo called them a “Combimike”.

-frank


----------



## Aaron_W

DiscoDan said:


> Just found this 2 inch Buck chuck in a bunch of stuff I bought.



Wow that is a tiny thing, the smallest Sherline chuck is 2-1/2".

Maybe for a watchmakers lathe, can you tell what spindle it fits?


----------



## vtcnc

francist said:


> I have a 3” - 4” like that with the inch spindle and metric digit counter. By the box, Mitutoyo called them a “Combimike”.
> 
> -frank


Beat me to it.


----------



## DiscoDan

Aaron_W said:


> Wow that is a tiny thing, the smallest Sherline chuck is 2-1/2".
> 
> Maybe for a watchmakers lathe, can you tell what spindle it fits?



The backplate just has a simple half inch plain hole. It looks like it is either pinned or bolted to the shaft.


----------



## Braeden P

DiscoDan said:


> The backplate just has a simple half inch plain hole. It looks like it is either pinned or bolted to the shaft.


That is a cute little chuck really tiny for sure


----------



## Papa Charlie

vtcnc said:


> I'll install it later this week and give an update. Online reviews are promising. I'm kind of kicking myself. Amazon had a similar deal for their 8" reversible jaw. An absolute monster! Total cost would have been just a little over $125. I went back to it the next day and "settled" for this deal, which I'm still very happy about.



That must have been a heck of a deal, can't find anything close to that now. Did find this one. Which seems pretty nice. I can't believe it is still Free Shipping. A lot of vice for $228. Is this the model you were looking at?



			https://www.amazon.com/4800R-Reversible-Reversed-Opening-Throat/dp/B07V3NXQV3/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=8%22+reversible+jaw+vice&qid=1605705804&sr=8-5


----------



## vtcnc

Papa Charlie said:


> That must have been a heck of a deal, can't find anything close to that now. Did find this one. Which seems pretty nice. I can't believe it is still Free Shipping. A lot of vice for $228. Is this the model you were looking at?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/4800R-Reversible-Reversed-Opening-Throat/dp/B07V3NXQV3/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=8%22+reversible+jaw+vice&qid=1605705804&sr=8-5



That’s the one. If you signed up for the Amazon CC, you got a $100 gift card assigned to your cart at checkout, which would have brought the cost down to $128 + free shipping. I waited a day and came back to it and the deal was over. Maybe put it on your watch list and see what happens?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Rogbo

I have a build thread going for my CNC conversion I'll write more about this, but "what did you buy today" is my favorite shop game... 

Just delivered from Amazon is my Asus VT229H 21.5" touch screen monitor and AcePC i5 mini computer. While I've laid out a bunch of cash, these are the very first pieces to come in!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

hman said:


> @mattthemuppet2 - Strange mike indeed ... the digits read millimeters, while the barrel reads inches.  Must have some INCREDIBLY complex gearing for both of 'em to be correct.





francist said:


> I have a 3” - 4” like that with the inch spindle and metric digit counter. By the box, Mitutoyo called them a “Combimike”.
> 
> -frank



yep, I was a bit confused at first until I looked at the plate (should have read the box really) and very faintly saw Combimike and both 0-25mm and 0-1"  The mm digits are turned by 3 small gears behind that face plate that are indexed (somehow) to a groove in the side of the mic spindle. It'll be pretty handy if I can get it working properly.

Even better, today I sold some parts from an auction I went to which pretty much paid for this stuff  Doing this will never make me rich, but it sure makes me happy!


----------



## JRaut

Got myself a little Postel die filer. Not much information online about them, other than folks complaining about a lack of information.

Made just a couple miles from my house in Minneapolis in, dunno, the 40s? 50s? Who knows...

The old Westinghouse 1/4hp motor has open bearings with Gits oilers. Maybe that's a clue.

Anyway, anyone know where to find some replacement files for something like this? The one it came with is dull as a crayon. It's about 3.5" overall in length with a 1/4" round shank.


----------



## Aaron_W

JRaut said:


> Got myself a little Postel die filer. Not much information online about them, other than folks complaining about a lack of information.
> 
> Made just a couple miles from my house in Minneapolis in, dunno, the 40s? 50s? Who knows...
> 
> The old Westinghouse 1/4hp motor has open bearings with Gits oilers. Maybe that's a clue.
> 
> Anyway, anyone know where to find some replacement files for something like this? The one it came with is dull as a crayon. It's about 3.5" overall in length with a 1/4" round shank.
> 
> View attachment 344633



This company has files for some die filing machines.

Falcon machine files

A neat little machine you have there.


----------



## sycle1

Just got this cheap metal bandsaw, pretty impressed with it so far.


----------



## Papa Charlie

sycle1 said:


> Just got this cheap metal bandsaw, pretty impressed with it so far.



That will work just fine. Nice looking unit too.


----------



## GunsOfNavarone

Bought a HFT 4x6 band saw. Immediately changed blade to a Starrett Intense Bi-metal and spent about 2 hours tuning it up....the lower blade guide striped out. I so rarely buy HFT and said I'd never buy anything that plugs in. Now all I have to do is disassemble it and take it back to swap it. ugh. Is there a black cloud floating above my house?


----------



## GunsOfNavarone

Rogbo said:


> I have a build thread going for my CNC conversion I'll write more about this, but "what did you buy today" is my favorite shop game...
> 
> Just delivered from Amazon is my Asus VT229H 21.5" touch screen monitor and AcePC i5 mini computer. While I've laid out a bunch of cash, these are the very first pieces to come in!
> View attachment 344563


I am looking at the same thing...just not sure if it will work with my Tormach.


----------



## sycle1

Gee you had some bad luck GunsofNavaron. sorry to hear that.
I basically attached the legs tightened them up, checked and adjusted for square and that the blade was straight up and down in its travel and it cuts like a dream. blade was tensioned right out of the box.
its been cutting 3/8 bar stock since I plugged it in.


----------



## Ianagos

GunsOfNavarone said:


> Bought a HFT 4x6 band saw. Immediately changed blade to a Starrett Intense Bi-metal and spent about 2 hours tuning it up....the lower blade guide striped out. I so rarely buy HFT and said I'd never buy anything that plugs in. Now all I have to do is disassemble it and take it back to swap it. ugh. Is there a black cloud floating above my house?



Kind of irrelevant but I’ve owned a few Chinese import 9x20 lathe and by far the nicest one I owned was a harbor freight machine. That machine was so nicely finished it made the grizzly machine look like scrap metal. It was also worlds nicer than the jet branded machine. They actually took time to vindo and paint the castings nicely.

Just my little story to say that some harbor freight stuff can be nice.


----------



## matthewsx

JRaut said:


> Got myself a little Postel die filer. Not much information online about them, other than folks complaining about a lack of information.
> 
> Made just a couple miles from my house in Minneapolis in, dunno, the 40s? 50s? Who knows...
> 
> The old Westinghouse 1/4hp motor has open bearings with Gits oilers. Maybe that's a clue.
> 
> Anyway, anyone know where to find some replacement files for something like this? The one it came with is dull as a crayon. It's about 3.5" overall in length with a 1/4" round shank.
> 
> View attachment 344633



If you want gen u wine die files they are expensive as all get out. But, they're really just regular files with the tang on the opposite end so they cut on the down stroke. I made one for my Keller by grinding the end down.

John


----------



## Larry$

7milesup said:


> On a different auction I picked up a small Jet shaper.  I have been wanting one for quite some time but the right opportunity never came up.  There was a similar Grizzly shaper that sold on an auction earlier this year for more new.  Crazy...
> So the equivalent Grizzly is about $750 plus shipping.  The Jet model is $1300-$1400 for the model I bought.  I paid $305 at the auction.  The auction pictures had just the shaper pictured.  I really wanted a 1/2" router collet so that I could run all of my 1/2" shank router bits in it.  Much to my surprise, there was a box included with the shaper that was not in the auction pictures. It had both 1/4" & 1/2" collets, along with a 3/4" arbor.  Some extra cutters and all the original accessories, even the original manual.  Yippeeee!   I was super happy.  Oh, also had a mobile base, but I will probably build a custom one for it.  I don't like those universal bases.


It looks really clean. I had a woodworking business for a long time. Lots of shapers. Some setup for one operation. Best one was a Gomad tilt. I put feeds on all of them. I used to grind custom knives for the shapers. Great, versatile machines.


----------



## GunsOfNavarone

Ianagos said:


> Kind of irrelevant but I’ve owned a few Chinese import 9x20 lathe and by far the nicest one I owned was a harbor freight machine. That machine was so nicely finished it made the grizzly machine look like scrap metal. It was also worlds nicer than the jet branded machine. They actually took time to vindo and paint the castings nicely.
> 
> Just my little story to say that some harbor freight stuff can be nice.


I guess it can happen and yes, my Griz castings are bad. But even the pulleys for the saw blade are so off, you can see the casting for the band saw flex as that run out loosens/tightens blade. We're talking sub $300. For how often I use it, it wasn't worth spending upwards of $1300 for a better one, just thought this band saw would have a chance of changing my tune about HFT.  I did get it to cut very true....which is nice.


----------



## Ken from ontario

GunsOfNavarone said:


> Bought a HFT 4x6 band saw. Immediately changed blade to a Starrett Intense Bi-metal and spent about 2 hours tuning it up....the lower blade guide striped out. I so rarely buy HFT and said I'd never buy anything that plugs in. Now all I have to do is disassemble it and take it back to swap it. ugh. Is there a black cloud floating above my house?


That HFT bandsaw has been serving hobbyists,  metalworkers, machinists for years and I honestly don't hear much negative reviews or comments on it , although I don't own one myself but based on all the praises I have heard over the years I would give it another chance.
I would return it and give another new one a try.


----------



## GunsOfNavarone

Ken from ontario said:


> That HFT bandsaw has been serving hobbyists,  metalworkers, machinists for years and I honestly don't hear much negative reviews or comments on it , although I don't own one myself but based on all the praises I have heard over the years I would give it another chance.
> I would return it and give another new one a try.


For sure, that's why I felt safe buying it. I just nut and bolted in for now, got it cutting quite and square...what else could you want from a saw?!


----------



## DavidR8

Picked up a used Mitutoyo 6” caliper. 
Massive improvement over my import digital. And a great companion to my 8” Mitutoyo dial and digital calipers. 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## francist

Nice. Those look minty from here...

-frank


----------



## 7milesup

DavidR8 said:


> Picked up a used Mitutoyo 6” caliper.
> Massive improvement over my import digital. And a great companion to my 8” Mitutoyo dial and digital calipers.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



If you don't mind me asking, where did you find a used one.
I am asking because I watch a number of machinery auctions in the MSP area.  Yesterday there were two that ended.  Stuff went for incredible amount.  Some of it was barely less than new.  I was talking to the wife last night and it seems that if I need/want something for my shop I might as well buy new.


----------



## Ianagos

7milesup said:


> If you don't mind me asking, where did you find a used one.
> I am asking because I watch a number of machinery auctions in the MSP area. Yesterday there were two that ended. Stuff went for incredible amount. Some of it was barely less than new. I was talking to the wife last night and it seems that if I need/want something for my shop I might as well buy new.



Yep that’s how auctions are going. After buyers premium I see stuff sell for more than new all the time and it ridiculous. I was bidding on some machines and they went for over 50% of new. That’s for 12 year old cnc machines. I can go to a dealer and buy a better equiped machine of the same year for 20k less. So that’s the craziness that is auctions.

I keep telling my wife I should just auction off my shop. I’d end up getting twice what all my stuff is worth and I’d probably end up with enough money to buy all new equipment.


----------



## FOMOGO

Nice score. I've had that exact unit forever, and it is very accurate, and has had maybe one battery change in ten yrs. Mike

Quote: Picked up a used Mitutoyo 6” caliper.


----------



## NCjeeper

Ianagos said:


> Yep that’s how auctions are going. After buyers premium I see stuff sell for more than new all the time and it ridiculous. I was bidding on some machines and they went for over 50% of new.


Of course it depends on the auctions location. There was just one yesterday in Tennessee. Most of the prices things sold for were ridiculously low.


----------



## BGHansen

NCjeeper said:


> Of course it depends on the auctions location. There was just one yesterday in Tennessee. Most of the prices things sold for were ridiculously low.


Learned my lesson (cheaply for me) at a high school shop auction 20 years ago.  They started going through the foundry stuff, there were two anvils probably around 120 lbs. each.  Really beat up.  Two guys went at it, took it up to around $135.  Auctioneer gave the winning bidder the choice of both at that price each, or his choice.  He took one.  Auctioneer offered the left-over to the other bidder who declined.  So they started to auction the 2nd anvil which went for $35.  It not only takes location, it takes two guys bidding against each other.  

Bruce


----------



## Papa Charlie

I don't see the bidding scenario as much in the In-Person auctions as I do in the On-Line auctions, but I am sure it happens too often. I have seen too many times, the prices in On-Line auctions get into a bidding war and the next thing you know, the price has exceeded the new cost. They just keep clicking that Enter key on the keyboard and get caught up in the moment. 

A lot of people forget there is the auction premium that gets added (12%-15%) then taxes which can add another 10% on top of everything else.

Just crazy.


----------



## Shootymacshootface

I picked this up off of cl the other day. I might do a resto thread on it.




Its missing the blade lifter for the back stroke. I would say it's optional with modern blades.
The other thing thats missing is the v-block guide for the bow. I'll just make one.


----------



## Shootymacshootface

The nice gentleman threw in this old welder and some 6013 rod and some nickle rod too.
I can't wait to try to weld aluminum with it!


----------



## DavidR8

7milesup said:


> If you don't mind me asking, where did you find a used one.
> I am asking because I watch a number of machinery auctions in the MSP area.  Yesterday there were two that ended.  Stuff went for incredible amount.  Some of it was barely less than new.  I was talking to the wife last night and it seems that if I need/want something for my shop I might as well buy new.


I bought it from a member of the Canadian Metal Workers group.


----------



## Ianagos

NCjeeper said:


> Of course it depends on the auctions location. There was just one yesterday in Tennessee. Most of the prices things sold for were ridiculously low.



Wish I would known about it. Was it a in person or online auction? I’m looking for some newer machines a bit out of the scope of this forum but i know you guys are always super helpful maybe you guys know of a place selling some good used machines


----------



## NCjeeper

It was online. It had a Horizontal Boring Machine in it that I was interested in. I just don't have the time to move one right now though. It sold for one dollar.


----------



## Aaron_W

Ianagos said:


> Yep that’s how auctions are going. After buyers premium I see stuff sell for more than new all the time and it ridiculous. I was bidding on some machines and they went for over 50% of new. That’s for 12 year old cnc machines. I can go to a dealer and buy a better equiped machine of the same year for 20k less. So that’s the craziness that is auctions.
> 
> I keep telling my wife I should just auction off my shop. I’d end up getting twice what all my stuff is worth and I’d probably end up with enough money to buy all new equipment.



It helps to know the value. I think some is sellers not knowing, and assuming it must be worth more, and some is sellers hoping buyers don't know. Of course auctions add in bidding frenzy.

I've noticed a couple of mini-lathes on CL recently ranging from barely discounted to more than new. One in particular was a nameless 7x14, seller was asking $500, you can find dozens of the exact same nameless lathe on ebay for $476 with free shipping.

Of particular concern buying used Mitutoyo is the fakes, not so bad if you buy a cheap new one that is a fake (many are apparently still pretty good, and as long as you didn't pay a new real price I guess not a bad deal), but I would worry about getting a used fake and paying a used real price (I'm sure there are people buying fakes, then selling them as used real). When certified dealers have 6" Mitutoyo calipers on sale for $111, and ebay is full of "new" ones for $49 it is not hard to imagine people are buying these, adding a little wear and then selling "lightly used" for $82.

MSI Viking 6" Mitutoyo caliper

Ebay $49 "new" Mitutoyo 6" Caliper 

Ebay $82 "used" Mitutoyo 6" caliper

Not singling out these ebay sellers as fraudulent, that used one might be completely legitimate. There are a bunch of $49 ones though. MSI Viking is an official Mitutoyo retailer, so hopefully can be trusted to be selling "real" Mitutoyo. BTW they do sell used and refurb equipment through an ebay store as well.

Full disclosure I bought a caliper from MSI Viking, when I started to learn how wide spread counterfeit Mitutoyo was, yeah it was more than ebay or Amazon, but at least I know I'm getting what I'm paying for and calipers are relatively cheap.


----------



## 7milesup

Aaron_W said:


> It helps to know the value. I think some is sellers not knowing, and assuming it must be worth more, and some is sellers hoping buyers don't know. Of course auctions add in bidding frenzy.
> 
> I've noticed a couple of mini-lathes on CL recently ranging from barely discounted to more than new. One in particular was a nameless 7x14, seller was asking $500, you can find dozens of the exact same nameless lathe on ebay for $476 with free shipping.
> 
> Of particular concern buying used Mitutoyo is the fakes, not so bad if you buy a cheap new one that is a fake (many are apparently still pretty good, and as long as you didn't pay a new real price I guess not a bad deal), but I would worry about getting a used fake and paying a used real price (I'm sure there are people buying fakes, then selling them as used real). When certified dealers have 6" Mitutoyo calipers on sale for $111, and ebay is full of "new" ones for $49 it is not hard to imagine people are buying these, adding a little wear and then selling "lightly used" for $82.
> 
> MSI Viking 6" Mitutoyo caliper
> 
> Ebay $49 "new" Mitutoyo 6" Caliper
> 
> Ebay $82 "used" Mitutoyo 6" caliper
> 
> Not singling out these ebay sellers as fraudulent, that used one might be completely legitimate. There are a bunch of $49 ones though. MSI Viking is an official Mitutoyo retailer, so hopefully can be trusted to be selling "real" Mitutoyo. BTW they do sell used and refurb equipment through an ebay store as well.
> 
> Full disclosure I bought a caliper from MSI Viking, when I started to learn how wide spread counterfeit Mitutoyo was, yeah it was more than ebay or Amazon, but at least I know I'm getting what I'm paying for and calipers are relatively cheap.



I appreciate you posting this.  I was actually looking at some of those eBay ones and thinking... "Too good to be true".   Most likely are.  Such a shame that there are so many scammers out there.  Seems like so many things are becoming scam items.
Just checked out MSI.  They have a good price on the 6" Mitutoyo, but I was looking to get the 8" but there is a huge price jump for that extra 2".

I have purchased a few things on auctions over the last few years.  Most recent was that wood shaper that I posted about.  When I was talking to the office gal at the auction house I made a comment about how high the prices are. She said that they are routinely starting to see people paying more than new for items.  It seems like this is a recent phenomenon, at least for the online machinery and machine tools auctions.


----------



## Ianagos

Aaron_W said:


> It helps to know the value. I think some is sellers not knowing, and assuming it must be worth more, and some is sellers hoping buyers don't know. Of course auctions add in bidding frenzy.
> 
> I've noticed a couple of mini-lathes on CL recently ranging from barely discounted to more than new. One in particular was a nameless 7x14, seller was asking $500, you can find dozens of the exact same nameless lathe on ebay for $476 with free shipping.
> 
> Of particular concern buying used Mitutoyo is the fakes, not so bad if you buy a cheap new one that is a fake (many are apparently still pretty good, and as long as you didn't pay a new real price I guess not a bad deal), but I would worry about getting a used fake and paying a used real price (I'm sure there are people buying fakes, then selling them as used real). When certified dealers have 6" Mitutoyo calipers on sale for $111, and ebay is full of "new" ones for $49 it is not hard to imagine people are buying these, adding a little wear and then selling "lightly used" for $82.
> 
> MSI Viking 6" Mitutoyo caliper
> 
> Ebay $49 "new" Mitutoyo 6" Caliper
> 
> Ebay $82 "used" Mitutoyo 6" caliper
> 
> Not singling out these ebay sellers as fraudulent, that used one might be completely legitimate. There are a bunch of $49 ones though. MSI Viking is an official Mitutoyo retailer, so hopefully can be trusted to be selling "real" Mitutoyo. BTW they do sell used and refurb equipment through an ebay store as well.
> 
> Full disclosure I bought a caliper from MSI Viking, when I started to learn how wide spread counterfeit Mitutoyo was, yeah it was more than ebay or Amazon, but at least I know I'm getting what I'm paying for and calipers are relatively cheap.



Yep on another forum a guy was trying to sell his mitutoyos calipers and didn’t realize they were fakes he had owned them for a while and bought them from a reputable seller (I thinks travers but don’t quote me) and turns out they were fakes. Even the real dealer sell fakes sometimes not knowing.


----------



## 7milesup

Ianagos said:


> Yep on another forum a guy was trying to sell his mitutoyos calipers and didn’t realize they were fakes he had owned them for a while and bought them from a reputable seller (I thinks travers but don’t quote me) and turns out they were fakes. Even the real dealer sell fakes sometimes not knowing.



WTH.  How can the dealers get scammed like that.  I was am looking at McMaster now.  MSI pricing is a little better though.  Are Starretts cloned as much as Mitutoyos?


----------



## Ianagos

7milesup said:


> WTH. How can the dealers get scammed like that. I was am looking at McMaster now. MSI pricing is a little better though. Are Starretts cloned as much as Mitutoyos?



It happens. I buy my mitutoyos from Amazon. Last 6” calipers I got I paid $99 to my door. As long as you purchase an item that is sold and shipped by Amazon it’s likely to be real. If it’s through a 3rd party all bets are off.


----------



## Janderso

I've had this vision of building a box and pan brake. Maybe when I retire.
Meanwhile, I bought this.
 It was on sale for $229. Now I can make those custom size tool drawer organizers and finish my getto Accufinish carbide grinder etc.
Love it!








						12" Pan and Box Brake at Grizzly.com
					

<h1>G0556 12" Pan and Box Brake</h1> <h2>The best 12"pan and box brake on the market.</h2> <p>This G0556 12" Benchtop Pan and Box Brake is built to take on any serious bending work.</p> <p>It can handle setting an angle in 20-gauge mild steel up to 135°.</p> <p>The G0556 comes with six removable...




					www.grizzly.com


----------



## 7milesup

A baby brake!


----------



## Janderso

7milesup said:


> A baby brake!


Yeah,
I changed the order. For $70 more, I can have the 24" mid size brake.
Much more versatile.

Canceled---Canceled








						12" Pan and Box Brake at Grizzly.com
					

<h1>G0556 12" Pan and Box Brake</h1> <h2>The best 12"pan and box brake on the market.</h2> <p>This G0556 12" Benchtop Pan and Box Brake is built to take on any serious bending work.</p> <p>It can handle setting an angle in 20-gauge mild steel up to 135°.</p> <p>The G0556 comes with six removable...




					www.grizzly.com
				




Ordered >>>>>>








						24" Pan and Box Brake at Grizzly.com
					

<h1>T28522 24" Pan and Box Brake</h1> <h2>Take care of your own fabrication needs.</h2> <p>The T28522 24" Pan and Box Brake is indispensable for increasing the strength of sheet metal plates with bends or fabricating more complicated brackets, gussets, boxes, or fixtures.</p> <p>It can handle...




					www.grizzly.com
				




I like to see the ISO9001 on the 24" also.


----------



## DavidR8

Janderso said:


> Yeah,
> I changed the order. For $70 more, I can have the 24" mid size brake.
> Much more versatile.
> 
> Canceled---Canceled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 12" Pan and Box Brake at Grizzly.com
> 
> 
> <h1>G0556 12" Pan and Box Brake</h1> <h2>The best 12"pan and box brake on the market.</h2> <p>This G0556 12" Benchtop Pan and Box Brake is built to take on any serious bending work.</p> <p>It can handle setting an angle in 20-gauge mild steel up to 135°.</p> <p>The G0556 comes with six removable...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.grizzly.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered >>>>>>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24" Pan and Box Brake at Grizzly.com
> 
> 
> <h1>T28522 24" Pan and Box Brake</h1> <h2>Take care of your own fabrication needs.</h2> <p>The T28522 24" Pan and Box Brake is indispensable for increasing the strength of sheet metal plates with bends or fabricating more complicated brackets, gussets, boxes, or fixtures.</p> <p>It can handle...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.grizzly.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to see the ISO9001 on the 24" also.


I'm interested to hear what you think of the brake. I've been eyeing a similar machine for a while.


----------



## Aaron_W

7milesup said:


> WTH.  How can the dealers get scammed like that.  I was am looking at McMaster now.  MSI pricing is a little better though.  Are Starretts cloned as much as Mitutoyos?



I've only seen Mitutoyo specifically mentioned. I think one of the draws to Mitutoyo is their digital tools have a well respected worldwide name. The older US, Swiss etc companies are not really known for the quality of their digital tools (although I am sure they are decent quality, it isn't their main market). It is also probably easier to make cheaper copies of electronic tools, than mechanical / analog tools which would have to be pretty good to get past inspection.

The funny part to me is the "cheap" Mitutoyo copies are apparently still pretty good and probably well worth their lower price. Like if the counterfeiters were up front about it they might still sell well to budget minded people under their own name. I'm guessing that since they are such close copies there are legal issues to being honest about it. Other than the issue of supporting criminals, the "too good to be true" ones might be worth buying intentionally, note that this applies to the true counterfeits, not the often very cheap and easily recognized Mitsuloyo, Mitetoyo etc.    

I kind of doubt the bought it from an official dealer, the dealer should be getting them direct which would make getting a load of fakes pretty hard to do. There is always the corrupt employee possibility, steal some real ones and swap for fakes. More likely it wouldn't surprise me at all if there are some "close" names on ebay and Amazon made to make people think they were more reputable sellers.
Some of the counterfeits are good enough to fool most people, you basically have to know what you are looking for, so I'm sure a lot of people pass off their fake as real 100% oblivious that it isn't real.











Still sometimes Amazon has some amazingly good deals direct from the manufacturer, you you can't assume all "too good to be true" prices are fake. I got a 2" Wilton Milling vise new from Amazon for less than 1/2 the normal price, and it came from Wilton. I got to the Amazon listing through Wilton's website, Amazon showed Wilton as the seller, and the paperwork I got with it showed it shipped from Wilton. Why it was marked down so cheap, I have no idea, and the price went back to the normal price after I bought it.


----------



## Janderso

Ianagos said:


> It happens. I buy my mitutoyos from Amazon. Last 6” calipers I got I paid $99 to my door. As long as you purchase an item that is sold and shipped by Amazon it’s likely to be real. If it’s through a 3rd party all bets are off.


I question the cheap Ebay "name brand" items.


----------



## Aaron_W

Janderso said:


> Yeah,
> I changed the order. For $70 more, I can have the 24" mid size brake.
> Much more versatile.
> 
> Canceled---Canceled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 12" Pan and Box Brake at Grizzly.com
> 
> 
> <h1>G0556 12" Pan and Box Brake</h1> <h2>The best 12"pan and box brake on the market.</h2> <p>This G0556 12" Benchtop Pan and Box Brake is built to take on any serious bending work.</p> <p>It can handle setting an angle in 20-gauge mild steel up to 135°.</p> <p>The G0556 comes with six removable...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.grizzly.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered >>>>>>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24" Pan and Box Brake at Grizzly.com
> 
> 
> <h1>T28522 24" Pan and Box Brake</h1> <h2>Take care of your own fabrication needs.</h2> <p>The T28522 24" Pan and Box Brake is indispensable for increasing the strength of sheet metal plates with bends or fabricating more complicated brackets, gussets, boxes, or fixtures.</p> <p>It can handle...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.grizzly.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to see the ISO9001 on the 24" also.



I've been contemplating a 12" brake or 3 in1 machine for some time. Would love something bigger, but space is the issue. Quality of the small ones is also a concern. The 24 and 36" can generally handle thicker material as well as the obvious greater length which then leads me to wonder where I might find an extra couple of feet of room...  

I'll be looking for your opinion of the 24" might help me make a leap or not.


----------



## Janderso

Aaron_W said:


> I've been contemplating a 12" brake or 3 in1 machine for some time. Would love something bigger, but space is the issue. Quality of the small ones is also a concern. The 24 and 36" can generally handle thicker material as well as the obvious greater length which then leads me to wonder where I might find an extra couple of feet of room...
> 
> I'll be looking for your opinion of the 24" might help me make a leap or not.


Aaron,
I'll be using this right away, I'll give you the reader's digest version review once I'm up and running.
I haven't decided if I'll mount it on the bench or lift it off the shelf when needed.
I will use it more if it's mounted and ready to go.


----------



## Jake2465

I just purchased this Dynapath bed mill. I am not familiar with Dynapath, but just from the few things I have read, it sounds like it's a straightforward control to use.


----------



## 7milesup

Jake2465 said:


> I just purchased this Dynapath bed mill. I am not familiar with Dynapath, but just from the few things I have read, it sounds like it's a straightforward control to use.



Oh sure.  Here we are happy to have digital calipers and such and you show up with a CNC mill.  Showoff... LOL.  Just kidding.


----------



## Jake2465

7milesup said:


> Oh sure.  Here we are happy to have digital calipers and such and you show up with a CNC mill.  Showoff... LOL.  Just kidding.



Ya know, the same business I just bought that thing from has one more that is similar and it's going for $4900 OBO.  The new owner of the shop is installing DMG's and he wants his shop space. Yesterday he had it up for $6900 OBO. 
Jump on it!









						Dynapath B3EC Vertical CNC Mill with 6" Kurt Vise and Free Loading  | eBay
					

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Dynapath B3EC Vertical CNC Mill with 6" Kurt Vise and Free Loading at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



					www.ebay.com


----------



## 7milesup

Jake2465 said:


> Ya know, the same business I just bought that thing from has one more that is similar and it's going for $4900 OBO.  The new owner of the shop is installing DMG's and he wants his shop space. Yesterday he had it up for $6900 OBO.
> Jump on it!


Funny you mention that because after you posted about your mill purchase I did a google search and that one showed up.  It looks well used but he describes it as having hardly used it.


----------



## Jim F

7milesup said:


> Funny you mention that because after you posted about your mill purchase I did a google search and that one showed up.  It looks well used but he describes it as having hardly used it.


The new owner of the shop hardly used it, the PO, maybe used it harder.........


----------



## Jake2465

7milesup said:


> Funny you mention that because after you posted about your mill purchase I did a google search and that one showed up.  It looks well used but he describes it as having hardly used it.



It's always a bit of a gamble when buying used equipment. But, for the price being what it is, the risk of taking a loss goes down.


----------



## Janderso

Aaron_W said:


> I've been contemplating a 12" brake or 3 in1 machine for some time. Would love something bigger, but space is the issue. Quality of the small ones is also a concern. The 24 and 36" can generally handle thicker material as well as the obvious greater length which then leads me to wonder where I might find an extra couple of feet of room...
> 
> I'll be looking for your opinion of the 24" might help me make a leap or not.


Aaron, I am relieved to find my Mitutoyo Absolute is genuine. After watching the video, I had to check.
My battery is SR44 and the retaining cap is round. Which is released by a slit in the cap. The fake one in the video slides.
I wonder how those people sleep at night, honestly.


----------



## Al 1

I found this die press at a flee market.   Does anyone know the purpose / use of these dies?


----------



## 7milesup

I dunno but some of those dies look like the ones used to put grommets into tarps or even curtains.


----------



## Buffalo21

I’ve seen similar presses in, now closed, leather shoe and pocketbook factory


----------



## Janderso

Al 1 said:


> I found this die press at a flee market.   Does anyone know the purpose / use of these dies?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 344872
> View attachment 344872
> View attachment 344873
> View attachment 344874


You must have needed it.


----------



## Aaron_W

Janderso said:


> You must have needed it.



I have to admit I have no idea what that press is for and probably would have bought it too, if the price was right.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Looks like a punch for doing leather work. You can punch holes, install grommets, snaps and other items.

Nice find, congrats. I would love to find one of those for my leather work.


----------



## Al 1

I needed to take it home $ 6.00.  
  I was leaning towards leather work.


----------



## Shootymacshootface

Al 1 said:


> I found this die press at a flee market.   Does anyone know the purpose / use of these dies?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 344872
> View attachment 344872
> View attachment 344873
> View attachment 344874


Its hard to judge the dimensions of everything from here, but most of that stuff looks like shot shell reconditioning equipment.


----------



## Larry$

Aaron_W said:


> I've been contemplating a 12" brake or 3 in1 machine for some time.



I've got a 3 in 1 that I've had for a long time. It sort of works as a pan break but can only bend to 90*. Hemming is difficult. Works Ok for the first bend but quickly runs out of swing room for the next bend. As a roll former it is hard to get it to start on the last pass when you are trying to make a full circle but with some fiddling it works. With in its capability the shear seems to do OK. I bought it to do dust intake hoods. I've got an electric hand shear built around a drill and a nibbler to do the curved work. Really need a  bead roller to do a more complete job.


----------



## BGHansen

I have a 30" Harbor Freight 3-in-one. You can do angles other than 90's by controlling the depth of the press. Biggest pain for the break is the lack of a support table.  Imagine setting a 1" wide piece of stock 2 feet long on a V block and trying to hold it with one hand while cranking a lever with the other.  I did a work around with an adjustable stock support (tripod with an adjustable roller). 

I ended up buying a Tennsmith 37" stomp shear and a Diacro 24" finger break.  Still have the HF machine and use it pretty much as just a slip roll.

They are great for occasion use, but naturally don't perform like a $1800 shear or a $4000 break. 

Bruce


----------



## Janderso

BGHansen said:


> I have a 30" Harbor Freight 3-in-one. You can do angles other than 90's by controlling the depth of the press. Biggest pain for the break is the lack of a support table.  Imagine setting a 1" wide piece of stock 2 feet long on a V block and trying to hold it with one hand while cranking a lever with the other.  I did a work around with an adjustable stock support (tripod with an adjustable roller).
> 
> I ended up buying a Tennsmith 37" stomp shear and a Diacro 24" finger break.  Still have the HF machine and use it pretty much as just a slip roll.
> 
> They are great for occasion use, but naturally don't perform like a $1800 shear or a $4000 break.
> 
> Bruce


Bruce,
You bring up a good point. I plan on mounting the brake on my 5x5’ table but yeah, supporting the stock is to be determined.


----------



## DLF

A nice drill press. China made with “german” name but overall cheap and well built.

The quill has 20 microns runout, but using the supplied chuck the runout will increase to 70 microns. Not bad for a drill press, but a nice chuck is on my Christmas list.








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Cheeseking

Not sure the type of bending you are looking to do but for small, light gauge brackets, boxes etc like the slug box shown, the Diacro finger brakes are a good quality option. Somewhat difficult to find used in decent shape tho and they ask king ransom for them. I lucked out and snagged a 12” at auction years ago and won’t say how much lest I be accused of major sucking. They are heavy but you can put on a workbench no prob. I had to flip the handles 180 but it still works fine.


----------



## Cheeseking

Nice drill press.  Dont forget to tighten them screws holding the column to the base!


----------



## hman

@Cheeseking - why be afraid of suckage?  Around here, it's considered a good thing.  

PS - what's the shortest length Z bend you can do on that press?  I just ran into that limitation on a HF "brake" I'm using.








						18 in. Mountable Bending Brake
					

Amazing deals on this 18In Bending Brake  at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




					www.harborfreight.com


----------



## Cheeseking

Its 3/4” from front of fingers to front of folding bar so about 3/4” Z I’d say. Could probably remove the 1/2” stiffener bar and do 1/4” on light material.

















$150


----------



## BGHansen

I have a DiAcro 24" break and with the angle iron auxiliary table removed can do reverse bends with a step of 1/4".  Here's a snippet of the DiAcro manual.

Bruce


----------



## BGHansen

Few recent eBay pick ups.  First was 3 ER20 collet TTS tool holders for the Tormach 1100.





Don't know if they'll get used, but picked up some cup grinding wheels for my Milwaukee Tool grinder.




Just my personal preference, but I like the mechanical digital micrometers over the Vernier or electronic types.  This Fowler 0.2" - 1.2" inside mic showed up for $32 delivered.  I'd have preferred the ones like below that are at my Grizzly and Clausing lathes, but Grizzly doesn't sell those anymore.  I did a few random checks on some parts and got within 0.0003" between the two mic's, can't complain too much about the use of plastic on a "precision" measuring device.






Grizzly used to sell these digital inside mic's (0.2" - 1.2" and 1" - 2") for around $60 each.  I thought they were a pretty good deal at that price.  Both of my lathes have them in their respective tool carts.  Now on the hunt for a mechanical digital 1" - 2" for the Tormach.




Thanks for looking, Bruce


----------



## hman

Thanks, @Cheeseking and @BGHansen!  Guess I might have to spend some actual bux one of these days, to get a "real" (as opposed to HF = "pretend") bender.


----------



## Aaron_W

hman said:


> @Cheeseking - why be afraid of suckage?  Around here, it's considered a good thing.
> 
> PS - what's the shortest length Z bend you can do on that press?  I just ran into that limitation on a HF "brake" I'm using.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 18 in. Mountable Bending Brake
> 
> 
> Amazing deals on this 18In Bending Brake  at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.harborfreight.com



What are your thoughts on the little HF bending brake? I've come very close to getting one for use with sheet brass on several occasions, but self control always gets the better of me.


----------



## hman

It's not bad for light stuff.  I've it mounted on a 4x4 that I can hold in a bench vise.  You'll need a couple of C clamps or Kant Twists to secure the hold-down bar.   Another thing I did was to carefully align the hold-down bar with the folding bar all the way up, then drilled both ends for alignment pins.  The Kant Twists just need to hold the bar down; don't have to resist backward force.  I drilled a second set of holes with the hold-down bar about 1/32" further back.  I can move the dowels to those holes when folding thicker stock.


----------



## pontiac428

My HF "brake" is a fiddly pain in the butt, but for the price, it gets some of the jobs done some of the time.  C-clamps are your friend.  It bends paper best. It's not a Di-Acro by any stretch.  I also have a mild sheet metal allergy, it seems.


----------



## NCjeeper

pontiac428 said:


> My HF "brake" is a fiddly pain in the butt,


I agree. I had one in the early 2000's. Wouldn't bend crap. I got so frustrated I threw it on the shop floor and smashed it with a hammer. A few years later they came out with a real brake and I bought that. It is the 3 foot stand up model.


----------



## middle.road

From the auction that @NCjeeper mentioned above. It was over near Nashville.
Dale ( @Wdnich) pick 'em up for me. Have to wait to see them in person.
He mentioned that a bunch of the machines were being tossed out back for the scrapper.  
(But not the HBM... )
There were some neat looking machines in this one and the prices stayed low. Like the 24" shaper I posted in the 'Auction' forum.


Coventry Gage (Matrix) Set - I put in a maxbid of $12, scored it for $11.



Starrett Bore(?) mic


Starrett Protractor



*The 'Foosball Misc' Lot...*
There's a knurler in there. I'm hoping it's a high quality one.
Someone made off with the Kant-Twist clamp. 
I 'gifted' the Foosball table to Dale for his Grandkids. -hehe.


I'm rolling the dice on the Bullnose, but I'm thinking now that it's one size larger than my tail stock (#3MT).



This was in the auction also but went way up in price. ($340.00)


	

		
			
		

		
	
...


----------



## hman

Looks like you did pretty well.  As for the JO set, I can see why it would fetch the big bux!


----------



## middle.road

hman said:


> Looks like you did pretty well.  As for the JO set, I can see why it would fetch the big bux!


I had it at $80 until the last few minutes...   
I noticed while searching on the Coventry that they made them also and called them "Slip-Gauge Accessories"


----------



## GunsOfNavarone

On the topic of fake Mitutoyo calipers...the fastest/easiest way to tell if it’s fake, the slide lock. I got these for free and they have been the best calipers I’ve owed so far (I don’t have Shars or Mitu yet...) but note the size of the knurled part.


----------



## DavidR8

Picked this up from Abebooks after I missed a copy for sale locally. 








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## erikmannie

I always enjoy doing business with Aloris in NJ. I bought a CXA #1 tool holder and a 60° HSS threading blade:





__





						Turning and Facing Holder CXA-1
					






					www.aloris.com
				







__





						High Speed Threading Blade, 60º, P-6
					






					www.aloris.com


----------



## Papa Charlie

middle.road said:


> From the auction that @NCjeeper mentioned above. It was over near Nashville.
> Dale ( @Wdnich) pick 'em up for me. Have to wait to see them in person.
> He mentioned that a bunch of the machines were being tossed out back for the scrapper.
> (But not the HBM... )
> There were some neat looking machines in this one and the prices stayed low. Like the 24" shaper I posted in the 'Auction' forum.
> 
> 
> Coventry Gage (Matrix) Set - I put in a maxbid of $12, scored it for $11.
> View attachment 345116
> 
> 
> Starrett Bore(?) mic
> View attachment 345117
> 
> Starrett Protractor
> View attachment 345118
> 
> 
> *The 'Foosball Misc' Lot...*
> There's a knurler in there. I'm hoping it's a high quality one.
> Someone made off with the Kant-Twist clamp.
> I 'gifted' the Foosball table to Dale for his Grandkids. -hehe.
> View attachment 345119
> 
> I'm rolling the dice on the Bullnose, but I'm thinking now that it's one size larger than my tail stock (#3MT).
> View attachment 345120
> 
> 
> This was in the auction also but went way up in price. ($340.00)
> View attachment 345121
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 345122



Congratulations, like you won the lottery there. 

Just checked out the auction for the closing prices, those prices are unbelievable. I can't believe that shaper went for $250. Makes me want to move to the Midwest.


----------



## JRaut

I've been on the hunt for one of these Bridgeport combo angle plate / sine table for quite some time. They came in two sizes, this is the larger of the two --- horizontal work surface = 10x12, vertical work surface = 6x12, 10" sine distance. Might be hard to tell from the photo, but the whole upper 90* angle plate tilts and works as a sine table.

They come up from time to time on eBay but it's pretty cost prohibitive to have one of them shipped, as the thing must weigh over 100 pounds. (edit: one is listed on eBay now for $950 + Freight).

Anyway, I found mine (without the Bridgeport badge) at a local auction for a reasonable price, so I pulled the trigger! Not "you suck" pricing, but pretty good. Out the door at less than $200, and it looks like it's hardly been used. No apprentice marks anywhere and all the original flaking is still present.

I've got a few operations on my radial engine build that it'll come in extremely handy for. A nice addition to the shop to be sure.





EDIT:
Suburban tool apparently still makes exactly this accessory. Costs a mere $4077 and weighs in at 100 pounds. Certainly on a different level precision-wise than the Bridgeport, but interesting data point nonetheless.


----------



## DLF

hman said:


> Nice press! And a pleasant surprise ... you have WD40 in Romania!



And yes, we also have indoor plumbing, cars, television, radio, etc.

Strange comment. Anyhow...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## middle.road

Papa Charlie said:


> Congratulations, like you won the lottery there.
> 
> Just checked out the auction for the closing prices, those prices are unbelievable. I can't believe that shaper went for $250. Makes me want to move to the Midwest.


Don't go packing quite yet.
The next one might not be so swell.
This was a bit of a rare one.
I've been saving listings for a couple of years now, some of them you have to grab the hammer price in real time, most don't post final closing prices.
They've been all over the place price wise.
This one the vertical mills seemed to be a bargain.
I was so tempted on the shaper, but space, budget, rigging held me back.


----------



## Papa Charlie

middle.road said:


> Don't go packing quite yet.
> The next one might not be so swell.
> This was a bit of a rare one.
> I've been saving listings for a couple of years now, some of them you have to grab the hammer price in real time, most don't post final closing prices.
> They've been all over the place price wise.
> This one the vertical mills seemed to be a bargain.
> I was so tempted on the shaper, but space, budget, rigging held me back.



I watch several auction houses across the country, while they rarely fall within the range of this particular one, I do see a huge difference in the auction outcomes in the Midwest and East Coast compared to here on the West Coat. I have looked into the rigging and shipping cost for heavy machinery across the country. Takes the advantage out of the going price very quickly and then you have the fact you cannot inspect in person. 

More over an interesting observation.


----------



## Aaron_W

hman said:


> It's not bad for light stuff.  I've it mounted on a 4x4 that I can hold in a bench vise.  You'll need a couple of C clamps or Kant Twists to secure the hold-down bar.   Another thing I did was to carefully align the hold-down bar with the folding bar all the way up, then drilled both ends for alignment pins.  The Kant Twists just need to hold the bar down; don't have to resist backward force.  I drilled a second set of holes with the hold-down bar about 1/32" further back.  I can move the dowels to those holes when folding thicker stock.
> View attachment 345064



Ok, so it is kind of what I expected, functional but needs some work. Since I really only need like a 6" brake for what I'd use this one for, I guess I'm back to my plan of scaling down the Gingery DIY brake. This of course assumes I don't wander into a HF when my guard is down and pick one up.


----------



## middle.road

Papa Charlie said:


> I watch several auction houses across the country, while they rarely fall within the range of this particular one, I do see a huge difference in the auction outcomes in the Midwest and East Coast compared to here on the West Coat. I have looked into the rigging and shipping cost for heavy machinery across the country. Takes the advantage out of the going price very quickly and then you have the fact you cannot inspect in person.
> 
> More over an interesting observation.


Rigging costs on site have been all over the place.
I wouldn't even want to hazard a guess what it would cost to haul something cross country.
The sale down in Alabama this summer where I went stoopid on surface plates, the outside rigging company that was there wanted $250 just to load up. Not including taking the plates off their stands.
Luckily there was a auction company crew there with a fork truck that loaded me up. We tipped them needless to say.

At an auction over in NC, the auction company loaded up your items for nothing. Pull up and they brought it out.

Yesterday they loaded up they had a fork truck available and loaded up the Fossball table for Dale for nothing.
I guess it also depends on the size and weight.


----------



## hman

@Aaron_W  - One thing I did not mention, but is probably obvious from the design of the HF tool - it's NOT a finger brake.  So making a box or a tray requires something else.  I've occasionally used a vise brake (with sectional fingers) for things like that:








						6" Vise Brake at Grizzly.com
					

<h1>Grizzly H3245 6" Vise Brake</h1> <h2>The slickest and cheapest way to properly bend sheet metal.</h2> <p>The H3245 6" Vise Brake allows you to bend shapes in metal and then quickly be stashed away when not in use.</p> <p>The dies mount into your vise and are held magnetically. Slide your...




					www.grizzly.com
				



Between the HF brake for wider stock and the vise brake for narrow work, I can usually get by.


----------



## Aaron_W

hman said:


> @Aaron_W  - One thing I did not mention, but is probably obvious from the design of the HF tool - it's NOT a finger brake.  So making a box or a tray requires something else.  I've occasionally used a vise brake (with sectional fingers) for things like that:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6" Vise Brake at Grizzly.com
> 
> 
> <h1>Grizzly H3245 6" Vise Brake</h1> <h2>The slickest and cheapest way to properly bend sheet metal.</h2> <p>The H3245 6" Vise Brake allows you to bend shapes in metal and then quickly be stashed away when not in use.</p> <p>The dies mount into your vise and are held magnetically. Slide your...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.grizzly.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between the HF brake for wider stock and the vise brake for narrow work, I can usually get by.



I have not seen those before, that is probably better for the projects I was thinking about for the HF brake, and it takes up less space.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a 24” length of 1” 1018 hex bar for $42.01 delivered.


----------



## Larry$

JRaut said:


> Suburban tool apparently still makes exactly this accessory. Costs a mere $4077


Way out of my league! 
Auctions, the item has to go cheap to cover the risks, auctioneer's fees, taxes, rigging, shipping and too often damage. The last in person auction I went to, they wouldn't permit you to move anything that just required a hand truck or pallet jack. There was a minimum $100 fee to move it to the door.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stop by the tool/flea market, i haven't been there in a whale first thing i bought me was couple of welding magnets, 5$ for both. Then i found and bought me a set of old wheels in bad shape but still have life in them also 5$ for them. Last thing i bought was couple of ball valves, i'm planning central air supply for both garages, so i'm getting parts for that.


----------



## rwm

I can't believe the market is open on Thanksgiving Day!   
Robert


----------



## GoceKU

I'm in europe it's not thanksgiving day here. Happy thanksgiving everyone.


----------



## DavidR8

Technically this was yesterday’s buy. 
A 6” rotary table with tailstock and dividing plates. 
For $270 USD/$350 CDN I am very impressed with it. 
Once I cleaned off the remains of the La Brea tar pit it’s remarkably well made. 
Minimal backlash and very solid. 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jcp

DavidR8 said:


> Technically this was yesterday’s buy.
> A 6” rotary table with tailstock and dividing plates.
> For $270 USD/$350 CDN I am very impressed with it.
> Once I cleaned off the remains of the La Brea tar pit it’s remarkably well made.
> Minimal backlash and very solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



May I ask where you squired this? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

jcp said:


> May I ask where you squired this?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



This is the seller 






						perfetto_pan on eBay
					

Follow perfetto_pan on eBay. Buying, Selling, Collecting on eBay has never been more exciting!



					ebay.ca
				





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----------



## jcp

Thank you!


----------



## Larry$

I ordered my Xmas presents, for myself, taking advantage of Shars 20% off weekend. A couple of years ago I had bought a cheap extended nose live center. It has way too much slop to make it useful. So splurged and ordered what I hope will be a major improvement. I'll use the MT3 shank from the old one for some future project. Also on the order a No.10 broach set. I've done the thing of single point broaching on the mill or lathe. It takes me forever and is hit or miss accurate. A few other small items and I hit my self imposed spending limit.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

Parting tool I can be proud to use from Shars. The little 1 always made a fool of me.


----------



## Superburban

DavidR8 said:


> Technically this was yesterday’s buy.
> A 6” rotary table with tailstock and dividing plates.
> For $270 USD/$350 CDN I am very impressed with it.
> Once I cleaned off the remains of the La Brea tar pit it’s remarkably well made.
> Minimal backlash and very solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That looks just like my Vertix 7". Mine you can take off the knob, and it it will take the index plates, and knobs from my 6" dividing head, making it even more usefull.


----------



## erikmannie

I have the smallest Noga magnetic base indicator holder, but it is often too small for a task.

I just bought the second largest Noga mag base universal swivel clamp, which is a Noga MG71003. It was 10% off with free shipping ($96.37 delivered):









						Large MG Holder - MG71003
					

b,




					www.noga.com
				




The 3 arms are 13.7” in total length. 

The largest Noga mag base (which I did not buy) has a magnet (base) that is twice as wide as the Noga mag base above and is too large for any of my tasks.


----------



## DavidR8

Superburban said:


> That looks just like my Vertix 7". Mine you can take off the knob, and it it will take the index plates, and knobs from my 6" dividing head, making it even more usefull.



Yup, this one is exactly the same. The handle is a bit of a beast to remove. Probably just some burrs and such. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Aaron_W

Well thanks to Tractor Supply's Black Friday sale, I have a new compressor. They were doing 25% off Dewalt compressors which put this one down to $375 from $500. 




I was really tempted to go with the 60 gallon for $419, but the more I looked into it, this one definitely meets my current needs as to this point a 6 gallon pancake compressor with half the CFM has been doing an adequate job. The 60 gallon would really be overkill right now, but at the same time when looking at the needs of future tools I'd like to have that would actually require a stationary compressor (plasma cutter, sandblasting booth), that 60 gallon compressor would fall a little short.

My current plan is to park this one next to my outdoor workbench (a covered, semi-enclosed area), and use it primarily as a stationary compressor, but one that can be easily moved when needed elsewhere around the house. I can then run some airlines into the shop with a quick connect so I don't have to have it right next to me to have air in the shop. Then if I do eventually get a stationary compressor I'll already have a basic airline system set up for it.

I have not decided if I will follow through on plans to run an air line to the front door for a steam whistle that I have thought would make an awesome doorbell...


----------



## Papa Charlie

erikmannie said:


> I have the smallest Noga magnetic base indicator holder, but it is often too small for a task.
> 
> I just bought the second largest Noga mag base universal swivel clamp, which is a Noga MG71003. It was 10% off with free shipping ($96.37 delivered):
> 
> View attachment 345704
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Large MG Holder - MG71003
> 
> 
> b,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.noga.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3 arms are 13.7” in total length.
> 
> The largest Noga mag base (which I did not buy) has a magnet (base) that is twice as wide as the Noga mag base above and is too large for any of my tasks.



You are going to love the Noga. I purchased the DG10533 Standard Base with the fine adjustment at the base. Total of 10.6" reach. I lose a little reach without the adjustment at the end, but I don't like to try and adjust from that point especially when using my test dial indicator. Just too sensitive.


----------



## DLF

A riveting tool. The head swivels 360deg. so no more awkward positions while trying to pop that last rivet








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Papa Charlie

Purchased these one over the weekend and the other just today.

First up, a set of MT adapters. My lathe has a MT3 Tail Spindle and I have different size MT drills so was nice to get a set to handle what ever comes.




Then today, I placed an offer on this Geometric 9/16 Die Head with 3/4" Shank. It comes with  (1) set 3/8-32, (2) sets 3/8-24, (2) sets 1/2-20, (1) set 1/2-13, (1) set 5/8-24. I actually did not expect them to take my offer as I offered half of what they were asking on Ebay.


----------



## KevinM

I pulled the trigger on a PM-727M w/DRO.  I also bought a PM-1022V w/DRO, both with stands and other accessories.  The color of my existing machines didn't match so I bought 2 that match to create some harmony in the shop.  I may also use them to generate some chips.


----------



## DavidR8

Picked up a pair of Starrett 733’s for silly cheap. Both need new CR2450N batteries. 






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----------



## devils4ever

Mitutoyo DTI 513-452-10T indicator with Noga NF1022 arm to mount in my milling machine spindle.

I got the vertical version to help center on holes and shafts. I was going to get a coaxial indicator, but after reading about them and hearing they are a luxury item, I decided to get this instead. I think this will be much more versatile and can be used to align my vise.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Ok, while not exciting, I went to look for my center drills the other day and could not find them. So while scanning the tool sources today, I went ahead and purchased these. Man this is an addiction.


----------



## Larry$

I hate it when I "misplace" something. The older I get the worse it becomes. Recently got a new tool cabinet. Rearranged everything to be "better" organized, sort of.


----------



## BGHansen

Larry$ said:


> I hate it when I "misplace" something. The older I get the worse it becomes. Recently got a new tool cabinet. Rearranged everything to be "better" organized, sort of.


Sure, now all of your eggs are in one basket.  Hope you don't lose the tool cabinet! 

Bruce


----------



## rwm

Any one have comments on the diamond tipped screwdrivers that are not supposed to slip? Craftsman has a set.
RWM


----------



## middle.road

Another local auction Monday night.
There was a decent AccuLab scale that I wanted to get for Honey to use. ($17!)
And a geode for her, just cause - she enjoys them.
and then there was an 'odd' lot. Only Machinist related items in the whole auction.





No maker's mark on the Vee Block. I haven't got the paper and goo off of it yet though.
Brass whistle, Brass scale, Brass plumb bob...


----------



## Janderso

Cheeseking said:


> Not sure the type of bending you are looking to do but for small, light gauge brackets, boxes etc like the slug box shown, the Diacro finger brakes are a good quality option. Somewhat difficult to find used in decent shape tho and they ask king ransom for them. I lucked out and snagged a 12” at auction years ago and won’t say how much lest I be accused of major sucking. They are heavy but you can put on a workbench no prob. I had to flip the handles 180 but it still works fine.


Looks like a well made tool.
I got a price on a vintage 36" stomp metal shear at a local dealer. It's in great shape =$1,100. If I had the room I would offer $900 and go pick it up.


----------



## Janderso

DavidR8 said:


> Picked up a pair of Starrett 733’s for silly cheap. Both need new CR2450N batteries.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Oh, you got it bad David!
I love it.


----------



## DavidR8

Janderso said:


> Oh, you got it bad David!
> I love it.


Indeed, my partner said "More micrometers?" (I love that she knows what they are....)
Then I told her what I paid (less than takeout from fast food restaurant) ... and what they actually cost...


----------



## Jim F

Picked this up today.
0-1/2 on an R8
Anyone the brand ?
Also got this 1/2 hp Marathon motor.
Model # on motor is HQC 56C17F315A W CW


----------



## DiscoDan

A set of 4PN collets for my Pratt & Whitney bench mill (hard to find) and Helios 13 inch dial caliper.


----------



## 7milesup

middle.road said:


> There was a decent AccuLab scale that I wanted to get *for Honey to use*. ($17!)
> And a geode for her, just cause - she enjoys them.
> 
> 
> View attachment 345954
> 
> View attachment 345955



Are you sure she is ok with you buying her a scale?


----------



## tq60

While looking at something not related on Amazon these 1/8 carbide burrs show up at bottom of page, set of 10 for 11 bucks, prime.

Arrived today, looks real good, may order another set just because...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## Sheather

rwm said:


> Any one have comments on the diamond tipped screwdrivers that are not supposed to slip? Craftsman has a set.
> RWM



I bought a six-piece Craftsman set from Sears a few years ago. Subjectively, they do seem to do better than the standard ones they replaced.

I'd say they are worth trying, especially if you can find them on sale this time of year.


----------



## middle.road

7milesup said:


> Are you sure she is ok with you buying her a scale?


oops, didn't think of it that way.
For Shipping, For Shipping!   
We have one of those light weight Royal plastic office grade digital scales. The pigtail is acting up and I've had to repair it a couple of times now.


----------



## Winegrower

I bought a 150 inch pound Z axis power feed for the mill from All Industrial.   I am beginning to really like those guys, fast, seems like their products trend toward somewhat better than average quality, and the prices are competitive.   About $326 including tax and (maybe free, I forget) shipping.

I bought four YG1 1/2” carbide end mills from them for about $25 each that have been workhorses and still look like new.

Installing the power feed today...


----------



## NCjeeper

I picked up a nice 40 taper rack from All Industrial.


----------



## John281

A friend's uncle passed away who was a cabinet maker.  She has to get rid of all his stuff.  I picked up three 5-gallon buckets of fasteners and miscellaneous raw stock (aluminum, steel, brass).  Also, a really old Starrett drill size poster is pretty cool.  She's donating the money to Habitat for Humanity so that's good.


----------



## Papa Charlie

John281 said:


> A friend's uncle passed away who was a cabinet maker.  She has to get rid of all his stuff.  I picked up three 5-gallon buckets of fasteners and miscellaneous raw stock (aluminum, steel, brass).  Also, a really old Starrett drill size poster is pretty cool.  She's donating the money to Habitat for Humanity so that's good.



I love those old posters. Have a friend in California that collects the old metal ones from tool companies like Starrett. They are very cool. 

Any drill presses in his shop that they will be selling or other items for metal work. I am very close in Everett.


----------



## DiscoDan

Just got back from the auction house. No junk in here! Lots of Starrett.


----------



## Aukai

Your gonna make some bucks with that


----------



## Papa Charlie

DiscoDan said:


> Just got back from the auction house. No junk in here! Lots of Starrett.



Exceptionally nice haul. Congrats.


----------



## Winegrower

Winegrower said:


> I bought a 150 inch pound Z axis power feed for the mill from All Industrial.



So I installed that today.   Seems like the first step is to throw away the instructions.   Horrible.    I watched a couple YouTube videos, that gave the flavor if not the specifics of the installation, and you can take it from there.    A summary is "nothing is really quite as it seems".   What occurs as a major issue is selecting the right number of shims to space the large bevel gear from the small bevel drive gear, for smooth functioning and low wear. More or less you're on your own there, no help from the directions.    One of the videos showed measuring the position of the large gear as a function of the number of shims and noting when the shims start taking effect.   That's the trick, and it works well.   Of course make sure the direction handle is in neutral or off when doing this, since the small gear is more or less locked when the handle isn't in off.   It confused me for a bit, I have to admit.

The typical things happened...I snapped off a 1/4-20 tap.   Must have been faulty.   

The supplied key was a bit too big for the supplied keyway...of course.

The mounting hardware for the limit switch and stops is really strange.   I would not have wanted to use it even if I could figure out how the designer, if any, intended it to work.   It's easy enough to see what needs to be done and figure it out from first principles.

The last big step is drilling a hole through the crank nut and main shaft for a roll pin.   I removed the crank nut and drilled it through, then positioned it back on the shaft, tightened up, and drilled through the shaft.  Came out ok.

A friend with a similar shop helped out, and two heads were needed at a couple points.   We'll do his X-axis next week.

The major components and drive, an Asong branded unit, seemed of quite acceptable quality.   And the icing on the cake is that it really works well!

So I'm happy.


----------



## BGHansen

Winegrower said:


> The major components and drive, an Asong branded unit, seemed of quite acceptable quality.   And the icing on the cake is that it really works well!
> 
> So I'm happy.



I bought the same one from All Industrial 3 years ago (my build thread is below).  Same opinion on the instructions.  I had to do a few mods to get it to work on my 1981 Bridgeport, but OH BABY do I love that thing!  I can't remember the last time I hand-cranked the table even an inch.  You'll find it to be one of your best purchases ever.  Especially, if like me, you install a DRO on your Z-axis and try tramming it in by hand cranking 160 times to move 16" (repeatedly).

Bruce










						Z-axis Power Feed install
					

I absolutely hated hank cranking the knee on my Bridgeport mill.  Might be old age or the fact that I work for a living to afford some conveniences, so I bought a Z-axis power feed unit from All Industrial Tool supply as a belated birthday present to myself.  Don’t mind birthdays so much when...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## hman

DiscoDan said:


> Just got back from the auction house. No junk in here! Lots of Starrett.


Fantastic haul!!!  What I find most intriguing is the threading die in the dial indicator set.  Is it 4-48?  If so, it was probably added in by the previous owner, so he could put the proper threads on custom tips (?)


----------



## Winegrower

BGHansen said:


> I bought the same one from All Industrial 3 years ago (my build thread is below). Same opinion on the instructions.



It’s amazing to me in that time that the instructions have not been improved. And really, everything considered, it was not that hard, simply unclear exactly what to do next. Once you dump the instruction sheet, and use them as an “installation concept”, it’s easier. Fortunately I did not have to remake parts like Bruce did, and the videos were most informative.    And that’s a terrific writeup, Bruce.

I’m happy it’s done!


----------



## Braeden P

DiscoDan said:


> Just got back from the auction house. No junk in here! Lots of Starrett.


 could you imagine if mr pete got that he would be going crazy about all of the starrett. all jokes aside that is a nice haul you must get some good auctions down there!


----------



## DiscoDan

Braeden P said:


> could you imagine if mr pete got that he would be going crazy about all of the starrett. all jokes aside that is a nice haul you must get some good auctions down there!



Finding this stuff takes a lot of work. It doesn't just find you. You have to search a lot of online auction listings and estate sale listings. I will keep anything I don't already have, swap out if something is better quality than what I have, or sell what I don't need.


----------



## Braeden P

DiscoDan said:


> Finding this stuff takes a lot of work. It doesn't just find you. You have to search a lot of online auction listings and estate sale listings. I will keep anything I don't already have, swap out if something is better quality than what I have, or sell what I don't need.


every week i spend an hour looking for some but not lots that good it would be lots of mics and stuff rarely lots like you got but i have a flea market by me where i most of my stuff from.


----------



## Janderso

The Grizzly 24" Box and Pan brake showed up!!
I'm looking forward to adding sheet metal capability to my tools.


----------



## Aaron_W

It was my birthday 2 weeks ago, I got a couple of books from my wife and older son (my younger one got me some Minecraft Legos which he has already absconded with). Also a group gift of a Lego lunar lander that the little one will not be getting away from me.








Since I have been so good this year I ordered myself the 4" vise mini sheet metal brake which hman pointed out a few posts up thread, and a small English wheel. I loved the packing, seems like they could have used a smaller box, but you never know when you might need some extra air.  







I've watched a few videos / reviews of this little thing so I know it will be a bit of a project, but it does sound like it provides a good starting point and it was about 20% off. I guess sort of an unlisted Black Friday deal, because the price went up a few dollars after the weekend.

I have some body work on my Landcruiser that I think this will be helpful for. I also plan on using it as a model to make a really small English wheel that I can use on little pieces of brass sheet.

I put a 6" scale in the box circled in red, to give some sense of the size of this thing. It really is quite small for an English wheel, about 20 by 24" and maybe 2" wide.


----------



## hman

You could add the Sealed Air packets to your survival kit


----------



## Janderso

Aaron,
Have you discussed gun safety with the cat yet?
Don’t put it off.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Well after the thread on a work light for the lathe, I went ahead an ordered this one. I will let you know if it was worth the cost and effort.






						Led Work Lights Table Lamp Long Arm Machine Light Multipurpose Waterproof Lathe Drill Work Light 12W 220V - - Amazon.com
					

Led Work Lights Table Lamp Long Arm Machine Light Multipurpose Waterproof Lathe Drill Work Light 12W 220V - - Amazon.com



					www.amazon.com


----------



## Aaron_W

Papa Charlie said:


> Well after the thread on a work light for the lathe, I went ahead an ordered this one. I will let you know if it was worth the cost and effort.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Led Work Lights Table Lamp Long Arm Machine Light Multipurpose Waterproof Lathe Drill Work Light 12W 220V - - Amazon.com
> 
> 
> Led Work Lights Table Lamp Long Arm Machine Light Multipurpose Waterproof Lathe Drill Work Light 12W 220V - - Amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 346315



I am interested in what you think of it. The reviews are mixed but I don't put to much weight on Amazon reviews.


----------



## DLF

Pulled the trigger on a Fini compressor: 10bar, 150L air tank








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## erikmannie

I just bought a 10” length of 4” 4140 chromoly round bar for $81 delivered. 

It is prehardened so that should be interesting to taper turn and part.


----------



## 682bear

My latest buy just arrived today... its a Bison NMTB50 to NMTB40 adapter for my Cincinnati mill. The mill came with one NMTB50 arbor, I already had 2 NMTB40 arbors... now I can use them on the mill.

-Bear


----------



## FOMOGO

Picked up this J.L. Thomson rivet machine for the princely  sum of $75, and cost me almost that much to drive to Laramie WY to pick it up. It was much heavier than I had anticipated from the pics. Has to be at least 500#. There was a guy 20yrs younger than me to help load it onto the trailer, but after an attempt or two we hooked a come-a-long to it and finally got it loaded up. The plan is to make table for it, and use it for riveting aluminum boxes and panels. Mike


----------



## Buffalo21

I ordered a pneumatic Riv-Nut tool, (2000) 6mm riv-nuts, (2000) 8 mm riv-nuts, 2 complete sets of arbors for the tool, I bought 2 set of solid carbide drill bits, 2 new Metabo grinders and 3 sets of metric Helicoil kits (M6, M8 & M10).


----------



## Gaffer

If you've seen my compressor posts, you know I'm gearing up for my car restorations. I received most of my order today - Flexzilla 1/4" high-flow fittings. They are a vast improvement over the standard fittings. I researched it, and looked at Milton, but went with the Flexzilla brand. They appear to be well made, and I hope they hold up. I did some DA sanding last weekend with the old fittings, and can't wait to compare it with the new fittings this weekend. I also bought a Jaco tire inflater/gauge with this purchase to replace mine - the type with the stem that pops up with the readings. My old eyes had a hard time reading it. This new one is analog, but has an easy to read dial gauge. It sure seems to fill up tires qucker with the high flow fitting.

Recap: I have a Husky Pro 7.5HP, 80 Gal compressor with RapdiAir 3/4" plumbed around to tops of my garage walls, with several of their drops. I have a 1/4" coil line at my work bench mostly for the blow gun. I may add dedicated drops for my mill and lathe, but it hasn't been an issue. I have a 3/8" line on a Cox reel that reaches everywhere I need in the garage and driveway. I have a couple of other drops for "just in case" but haven't needed them. One will will likely be for all my spraying operations. All of my hoses and tools will have the high flow fittings.


----------



## NCjeeper

I have been using Flexilla air fittings for a couple of years now. No complaints. It is nice to have a little extra air for the large air consuming tools.


----------



## JRaut

I've been on the hunt for one of these bad boys for some time as well! Wohlhaupter UPA3 boring/facing head. It came with the original wood case (not pictured) and a few of the bits and bobs, though not a complete set. Cost me about $200 after shipping and everything. I'm pretty darn pleased with the deal.

Just got delivered today. It's a bit grimy, but everything moves smoothly. I'll probably tear it all the way down while cleaning, if only for the curiosity factor.


----------



## DLF

JRaut said:


> I've been on the hunt for one of these bad boys for some time as well! Wohlhaupter UPA3 boring/facing head. It came with the original wood case (not pictured) and a few of the bits and bobs, though not a complete set. Cost me about $200 after shipping and everything. I'm pretty darn pleased with the deal.
> 
> Just got delivered today. It's a bit grimy, but everything moves smoothly. I'll probably tear it all the way down while cleaning, if only for the curiosity factor.
> 
> View attachment 346502



Nice find. Before you unleash your curiosity be sure to check the youtube. There is a nice video of such a disassembly (IIRC from Stefan Gotteswinter). Please be aware they contain some gears and springs and it needs to be assembled in exactly the same order since some parts are matched.

At some point I wanted to get a similar one but upon inspecting it I noticed it was not properly assembled and owner admitted he got curious. Ended up not buying that thing


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DLF

DLF said:


> Pulled the trigger on a Fini compressor: 10bar, 150L air tank
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Sooo, it arrived. I was very surprised when the delivery guy called this afternoon: less than 24h shipping

The compressor is a beast. It is huge, but the price difference was way too low compared to the 100l version so I had to have it. 

Arrived on a pallet and was super well packaged: pallet, carton, bubble wrap, another carton and finally shrink wrapped.

I really like that it is made in Italy, so quality wise should be beautiful.







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----------



## Aaron_W

DLF said:


> Sooo, it arrived. I was very surprised when the delivery guy called this afternoon: less than 24h shipping
> 
> The compressor is a beast. It is huge, but the price difference was way too low compared to the 100l version so I had to have it.
> 
> Arrived on a pallet and was super well packaged: pallet, carton, bubble wrap, another carton and finally shrink wrapped.
> 
> I really like that it is made in Italy, so quality wise should be beautiful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Wow that is a lot bigger than I thought. 150 liters didn't immediately compute and with the wheels I was thinking it was a small portable. That is almost a 40 gallon tank. and with 240v being standard "over there" that should be a nice compressor.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

bought some MT2 tooling (Royal live center and Jacobs 6A chuck) for my SB9 lathe project and a few other bits'n'pieces. Not a steal, but I'm pretty happy for $80


----------



## Jim F

Bought a Starrett 828B today.
My mill came with a wiggler set but was missing the ball contact.
Ordered from Fastenal at the beginning of Nov., they called today.


----------



## 7milesup

JRaut said:


> I've been on the hunt for one of these bad boys for some time as well! Wohlhaupter UPA3 boring/facing head. It came with the original wood case (not pictured) and a few of the bits and bobs, though not a complete set. Cost me about $200 after shipping and everything. I'm pretty darn pleased with the deal.
> 
> Just got delivered today. It's a bit grimy, but everything moves smoothly. I'll probably tear it all the way down while cleaning, if only for the curiosity factor.
> 
> View attachment 346502


Another one Jeff?!  
It is a sickness.


----------



## 7milesup

Welp, another auction.  The wife is starting to get, shall we say, agitated.  Maybe questioning, as in, my sanity.  
I was in MSP area last week picking up some other auction items (crikey, can't even remember what they were!) and looked at these work cells.  My initial thought was "no way" do I need, nor want one of those.  But, upon closer inspection, I realized that the bases are 1" thick steel (stainless I believe with possibly a nickel coating) that is blanchard ground.  They also have 3 contact points on the side that are exactly perpendicular to the top whereas two bases can be bolted together to make one large table.  The ones I bought have 36"x42" tops on the bases.  They are filled with pneumatics and electronics.  Some of the items I will use, especially the enclosure and some of the pneumatics if I convert my mill to CNC.  Paid $170 for one and $140 for the other.  I will easily make my money back and then some.
Some other guys were there parting out a 60"x72" cell while I was loading.  They wanted all the stuff on the top but not the base.  They said they would probably take the base to the scrapper.


----------



## 7milesup

Oh, bought two of these.  $6 for one.  $7 for the other.  Have no idea what I am going to do with them.
	

		
			
		

		
	






Ooops.  Those pics are rather small.  Well, anyhow, they are variable 12 volt power supplies.


----------



## hman

Wow!  Seeing those "work cells" brought back some memories.  I used to build them thar things when I worked at H-P!  You got a fantastic price!  Suckage definitely indicated.


----------



## 7milesup

hman said:


> Wow!  Seeing those "work cells" brought back some memories.  I used to build them thar things when I worked at H-P!  You got a fantastic price!  Suckage definitely indicated.


Oh interesting.  These came from Hutchinson Technologies, the company known for making hard drive components for computers.  I am guessing that with the advent of SSD drives the company is in serious downsizing mode.  They built a massive building in Eau Claire WI quite a few years ago.  That building is now largely empty I believe.

I was thinking about the engineering that went into these work cells.  Truly amazing.  I can only imagine the cost to build one of these new.  I also think about the folks that stood in front of these cells and worked to provide for their families.  Where are they now...


----------



## erikmannie

I just bought a 4 flute 5/16” carbide end mill for $14 delivered. The cheapo end mills that I had would not cut HSS.

I am going to use this to try to mill a broken HSS 60° threading blade:


----------



## francist

Sure are tiny little guys...




-frank


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> Sure are tiny little guys...
> 
> View attachment 346817
> 
> 
> -frank



I see a knurler in your future!
Are those from Form-Rol?


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----------



## francist

DavidR8 said:


> Are those from Form-Rol?


Yes and yes, although I’ll qualify the second “yes” in that they are Form-Rol wheels but I purchased them from KBC. One was in stock, the others were special order so took maybe a week as opposed to a couple days. I’m shaping up for the Heapy / Mikey version although I will make a change or two to the mounting. Was supposed to be my Christmas vacation project but I’ve since added about three more to the same list so it’s undecided as to which will get done first! I’ll keep you posted...

-frank


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> Yes and yes, although I’ll qualify the second “yes” in that they are Form-Rol wheels but I purchased them from KBC. One was in stock, the others were special order so took maybe a week as opposed to a couple days. I’m shaping up for the Heapy / Mikey version although I will make a change or two to the mounting. Was supposed to be my Christmas vacation project but I’ve since added about three more to the same list so it’s undecided as to which will get done first! I’ll keep you posted...
> 
> -frank



I’ve got all the bits to do the same build. 
I promised myself not to buy any more machines because I need to check off a few projects 


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----------



## Jlwright3

Atlas 12" lathe. 
Appears to be a Frankenstein of sorts between bed and tailstock from a atlas 12" lathe and a headstock from an atlas 10" lathe.


----------



## ddickey

12" bed? That's looks a lot longer than 12"


----------



## Jlwright3

Sorry, its a bed from a 12" lathe, not 12" long haha


----------



## vtcnc

Got the Fowler 6" square new for $25. Starrett oil from the same website for $10. Some good deals there on new and refurbished instruments.

Indicators were from some old fixtures that were going to be scrapped. Need to be oiled up and checked over but otherwise work well.


----------



## rwm

Thanks Bryan-they still have the 6 and 8" square on sale.
Robert


----------



## DAM 79

Christmas  came early iGot some new toys last month for the shop and now it’s to the point that I need a bigger shop cause I’m running out of room


----------



## Papa Charlie

DAM 79 said:


> Christmas  came early iGot some new toys last month for the shop and now it’s to the point that I need a bigger shop cause I’m running out of room



Very nice. Did you go through them and restore them or purchase in that condition. Those will be a great addition to your shop.


----------



## DAM 79

Papa Charlie said:


> Very nice. Did you go through them and restore them or purchase in that condition. Those will be a great addition to your shop.


I was VERY lucky to run across all this it was all from one guy off Craig’s list and it all had been sitting for a while there is also a big vertical band saw that I might get from him to the one thing that I missed was a monarch lathe that he had and I missed that by a few hours it was like brand new shape 14x54 very tooled up with a dro and ask this stuff was 30 mins from where I live witch is unheard of because I all find some good deals but there always so far away


----------



## Papa Charlie

OK, not the most exciting purchase I have made, but I wanted a dedicated 22mm Offset box end wrench that I would use on my AXA Tool Post to swival. My intention is to cut off the end I don't need so that it is the handle that I want.




Also, I posted earlier that I purchased a work light for the lathe and even did an evaluation on another thread. Come to find out they forgot to pack the mounting bracket that was suppose to come with it. It was a cheap sheetmetal bracket, but I let them know and they had indicated that they would replace it. Got an email today that indicated they have no spare parts here in the US and will be sending me another complete light with the bracket to compensate me for the inconvenience.

I will say this, that is customer service. The bracket couldn't cost them more than a dollar to produce, but to send a complete light that is amazing.


----------



## pontiac428

@Papa Charlie, why didn't you get a 7/8 wrench instead?


----------



## Papa Charlie

pontiac428 said:


> @Papa Charlie, why didn't you get a 7/8 wrench instead?



I have been using a 7/8" wrench but it fits very loosely. I have a asian knockoff tool post. When I measured it it came out to 22mm.


----------



## foleda

Auction score: 3/4 inch solid carbide end mills


$16 for the lot.


----------



## KevinM

foleda said:


> Auction score: 3/4 inch solid carbide end mills
> View attachment 347311
> 
> $16 for the lot.


How do I find tool auctions in my area?


----------



## Papa Charlie

@KevinM
Do a Google search for Commercial and Industrial Auctioneers in your area. Once you find some, get on their notification lists and then just check out each auction to see if anything is of interest to you.

Remember there are other fees that are on top of your purchase.
Loading sometimes is an additional charge
Your bid will be plus the Auction house service charge. It can be from 10% - 15% so be sure to add this to your bid for the total cost
and then there is Sales Tax if it applies in your or their area.

For example:

I bid $100
Auction Fee 15%
Sales Tax 10%
Total $126.50


----------



## foleda

KevinM said:


> How do I find tool auctions in my area?


Try googling for "auctions near <my city>".  You'll get lots of hits.  The trick with auctions is that you have to look at a lot of them to find
the bargains.  I frequently find that prices are too high for "as is" "where is" merchandise.  It is not unusual for things to sell for new retail
prices.  You'll have a lower hit rate but a better chance of getting a "you suck" bargain at non-machinist  auctions.  I bought a Dumore 44
tool post grinder in decent shape for $35 in an action of woodworking tools.  Have patience and be prepared to buy things that may not
be on your immediate shopping list.


----------



## foleda

Papa Charlie said:


> @KevinM
> Remember there are other fees that are on top of your purchase.
> Loading sometimes is an additional charge
> Your bid will be plus the Auction house service charge. It can be from 10% - 15% so be sure to add this to your bid for the total cost
> and then there is Sales Tax if it applies in your or their area.
> 
> For example:
> 
> I bid $100
> Auction Fee 15%
> Sales Tax 10%
> Total $126.50



Very important to be aware of the additional fees.  Also, decide what it is worth to you before you start bidding and STOP when the
bid reaches your limit.


----------



## DLF

Set of Whitworth (BSP) and metric thread pitch gages.








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----------



## Papa Charlie

foleda said:


> Very important to be aware of the additional fees.  Also, decide what it is worth to you before you start bidding and STOP when the
> bid reaches your limit.



So true, I have seen people get caught up in the moment for Online auctions and the price eventually exceeds retail.


----------



## fitterman1

Technically Whitworth is one threadform and BSP is another.
Like the difference between Unc and NPT.
One is parallel, the other is tapered.
Nice find tho.


----------



## Superburban

I thought Whitworth was English, not metric.


----------



## Jim F

Superburban said:


> I thought Whitworth was English, not metric.


It is Whitworth on 1 side, Metric on the other.
I have one that is like that, just Imperial and metric.


----------



## Superburban

Jim F said:


> It is Whitworth on 1 side, Metric on the other.
> I have one that is like that, just Imperial and metric.


Yea, guess I did not read it. Caught me again, only doing half of what I should.


----------



## Jim F

Finally got some T-handle Allens.


----------



## sycle1

Just some long Torx  handy for Harleys.


----------



## DLF

fitterman1 said:


> Technically Whitworth is one threadform and BSP is another.
> Like the difference between Unc and NPT.
> One is parallel, the other is tapered.
> Nice find tho.



Not true. BSP has Whitworth thread form. Now there are 2 kinds of BSP:
BSPP which is parallel and (commonly known as the G thread) and BSPT which is tapered.

BTW, there are also 2 kinds of NPT. There is actually a parallel NPT kind called NPS.


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----------



## SRay53TxTn

PM-728VT mill & stand
My small garage "Hobby Shop" addition - Birthday/Retirement gift to me.


----------



## brino

SRay53TxTn said:


> Birthday/Retirement gift to me.



Happy Birthday/Retirement!  

-brino


----------



## BROCKWOOD

Enjoy your retirement with your new gift!


----------



## hman

Happy birthday, as well as a merry Christmas and/or Happy Hanukkah!


----------



## foleda

foleda said:


> Auction score: 3/4 inch solid carbide end mills
> View attachment 347311
> 
> $16 for the lot.


Did no one notice what was unusual about the end mills?  I expected someone to comment.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

I did look & now again. Slight radius?


----------



## hman

OK, now that you pointed it out ... LH flutes!


----------



## Superburban

Now he needs to get left handed tool holders. And likely a left handed draw bar.


Better yet, he can just send them to me. My mill is equipped to run left hand end mills.


----------



## foleda

hman said:


> OK, now that you pointed it out ... LH flutes!


Right.  There is a finite probability that I will forget to reverse the spindle and burn one up but for the price I am willing to risk it.


----------



## extropic

foleda said:


> Did no one notice what was unusual about the end mills?  I expected someone to comment.



I noticed right off.

The important thing is that you're OK with it.

LH cutters are generally as useful as RH as long as you spin the spindle the correct way.


----------



## SRay53TxTn

SRay53TxTn said:


> PM-728VT mill & stand
> My small garage "Hobby Shop" addition - Birthday/Retirement gift to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 347437


Thank you all for all the kind words and good wishes!
Now waiting for its arrival and install, I'll try to post some pics of unboxing, mounting on stand, and placement in my small hobby area. I'm so excited, my first real mill (drill press was doing double duty on some minor light material projects and not so precise). It will sit adjacent to my PM 1228VF-LB lathe 
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 and my little shop should keep me challenged for the retirement phase of life.

Happiest Holidays to you all!


----------



## rwm

Sewing machine motor:




1 HP Servo motor for $120! It's very nice.

Robert


----------



## 7milesup

rwm said:


> Sewing machine motor:
> 
> 1 HP Servo motor for $120! It's very nice.
> Robert



Watchya gonna put it on?


----------



## hman

Nice!  What are your plans for it?


----------



## vtcnc

foleda said:


> Try googling for "auctions near ". You'll get lots of hits. The trick with auctions is that you have to look at a lot of them to find
> the bargains. I frequently find that prices are too high for "as is" "where is" merchandise. It is not unusual for things to sell for new retail
> prices. You'll have a lower hit rate but a better chance of getting a "you suck" bargain at non-machinist auctions. I bought a Dumore 44
> tool post grinder in decent shape for $35 in an action of woodworking tools. Have patience and be prepared to buy things that may not
> be on your immediate shopping list.



Hey folks we have a new high bar for “You Suck” nominations! $35 for Dumore Tooloost Grinder!!?

You Sucketh, indeed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rwm

7milesup said:


> Watchya gonna put it on?


I think I am gonna put it on my drill press. Here:








						Clausing Drill Press (new to me)
					

I just got this sewing machine motor in the mail today:    In spite of its small size it is rated at 1HP and goes up to 4000 RPM. I plan to replace the drill press motor with this and have the added advantage of full speed control. I hope the torque will be adequate. I plan to use the pulleys to...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




Robert


----------



## Ianagos

foleda said:


> Auction score: 3/4 inch solid carbide end mills
> View attachment 347311
> 
> $16 for the lot.



Just remember those look like left hand twist. If you decide you don’t need them shoot me a line I got cnc machines that like solid carbide


----------



## Aukai

I've been mussy futzing around looking for things to get for the new lathe when it gets here, I have several Carbide boring bars but no BXA holder The cheapest Aloris BXA 4D that I've seen was from AJAX at 95.00, as a last resort I looked at Amazon, 1 left in stock for 85.00 Prime, so I grabbed it...


----------



## Papa Charlie

@Aukai Check out the holders on Ebay. Yes, I know where they come from, but I have purchased several different styles now off of Ebay for my AXA and I am impressed. The only thing I will probably change is the lock bolts as I would prefer knowing the strength of them. But $25 compared to $80 it seems like a no brainer.


----------



## Aukai

I only have a couple of genuine holders, the rest are Ebay buys


----------



## Papa Charlie

Aukai said:


> I only have a couple of genuine holders, the rest are Ebay buys



Well that is a couple more than I have. Have a great day.


----------



## SRay53TxTn

Just added the DRO to my PM728-VT order. Too many positive attributes to not have it installed by them and have the 5 year warranty as well.
Thought I wanted to try it without, several members indicated the DRO was a great tool to have on the PM728-VT and well worth the extra investment.
Now the wait.

What a great site and folks.
Thanks for the guidance on my first mill.


----------



## BGHansen

Few additions to the shop.  I have a buddy who is now a supplier rep at our plant; he retired after 40 years as a machinist 15 years ago.  He was cleaning out his tool box and brought me a few goodies.  He gifted me a Mitutoyo protractor, a Starrett divider and inside caliper, and a set of gauge blocks.  Taking he and his wife out to dinner once we all get vaccinated.














Rest are wins off eBay.  I was tracking a nice set of Ace taps/dies from 4-36 - 1/2 in NC/NF and out of the blue got a seller offer for $65 delivered.  They came with what I believe is an original hold-open bracket for the plastic lid.  The "U" shaped piece of sheet metal sets on the hinge and holds the polypropylene top open.








Next are some double-cut cobalt HSS burrs for the 1913 Erector set motor and other projects.  Think they were around $12 each.



Some 1" x 2" x 24" A36 bar stock for the 1913 Erector set motors.  This was $60 delivered from Midwest Metals



Couple of ball bearing ER32 collet nuts from Rocky Mountain CNC, $20 each delivered



Didn't need it but stumbled on a Buy It Now for $30 for a mostly complete Huot drill index and drills.  It was missing around 20 drills.





Picked up another 1/2" - 1 5/8"(?) 1/8" thick parallel set.  I have a set in my shared Bridgeport/Jet mill tool box.  Added a second just in case.  $25 delivered off eBay.


----------



## fitterman1

Now that sucks


----------



## DiscoDan

It wasn't a total loss. I did pick up three pieces of mitutoyo and an unmarked dial indicator plus some other misc tools.


----------



## DavidR8

I had my first eBay auction success in ages. 
Scored a 5C spindexer for $50. 
Should be here next week.


----------



## Papa Charlie

There is a whole lot of Sucking going on around here!


----------



## f350ca

Have the same spin indexer David. Unfortunately they're sort of a kit. A least mine was way out of true, the spindle wasn't parallel to the base and the sides aren't machined to hold it in a vice. I set it up in the mill, plumed the bore to the spindle, then faces the end. Off that I skimmed the base to get the bore true, then cut the sides of the base to be able to mount it in the vice for quick set up. Still not perfect but beter than it was.
Greg


----------



## DavidR8

f350ca said:


> Have the same spin indexer David. Unfortunately they're sort of a kit. A least mine was way out of true, the spindle wasn't parallel to the base and the sides aren't machined to hold it in a vice. I set it up in the mill, plumed the bore to the spindle, then faces the end. Off that I skimmed the base to get the bore true, then cut the sides of the base to be able to mount it in the vice for quick set up. Still not perfect but beter than it was.
> Greg



Thanks Greg, I’m pretty much expecting to rehab it to get it up to spec. 
It was a bit of an impulse buy as I already have a horizontal/vertical rotary table. I’m sure I’m heading down the 5C collet chuck path...


----------



## NCjeeper

DavidR8 said:


> I’m sure I’m heading down the 5C collet chuck path...


You will be glad you did.


----------



## DavidR8

NCjeeper said:


> You will be glad you did.


Finding a plain back one that isn't a zillion dollars is proving a bit hard...


----------



## NCjeeper

DavidR8 said:


> Finding a plain back one that isn't a zillion dollars is proving a bit hard...


I have bought from this seller before. Import tooling but seems to be decent.








						5C Collet Chuck with plain back mounting, lathe use, Chuck Dia. 5" #5C-05F0  | eBay
					

5C Collet chuck w. plain back mounting back. Any Size 5C Collet From 1/16 through 1-1/8" can be used. Scroll operation Design just like 3-Jaw Chuck, Operated With Chuck Kay. RPM 6000, steel chuck structure.



					www.ebay.com


----------



## DavidR8

NCjeeper said:


> I have bought from this seller before. Import tooling but seems to be decent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5C Collet Chuck with plain back mounting, lathe use, Chuck Dia. 5" #5C-05F0  | eBay
> 
> 
> 5C Collet chuck w. plain back mounting back. Any Size 5C Collet From 1/16 through 1-1/8" can be used. Scroll operation Design just like 3-Jaw Chuck, Operated With Chuck Kay. RPM 6000, steel chuck structure.
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com



Thanks!


----------



## erikmannie

I bought 2 Goldenrod 10 ounce pistol pump oilers. $15 each, delivered.

I use these for putting way oil in ball oilers.


----------



## Buffalo21

DavidR8 said:


> Thanks!


I bought one with an integral D1-4 mount from roughly $150, about 5 yrs ago, I do not use it much, but it is handy for some uses.


----------



## francist

I have a nice set of Snap-on drivers that I’ve had since I was a kid and I really like them. But they’re downstairs in the shop, so....


----------



## Cooter Brown

DavidR8 said:


> I had my first eBay auction success in ages.
> Scored a 5C spindexer for $50.
> Should be here next week.



Now that you have a surface grinder you are going to love using this spindexer on it...... I use it most of the time with a cut off wheel on the surface grinder.....


----------



## DavidR8

Cooter Brown said:


> Now that you have a surface grinder you are going to love using this spindexer on it...... I use it most of the time with a cut off wheel on the surface grinder.....



I got about 20 cut off wheels with the grinder but I’m trying to picture how they’d be used with a spindexer.


----------



## Cooter Brown

DavidR8 said:


> I got about 20 cut off wheels with the grinder but I’m trying to picture how they’d be used with a spindexer.



To cut parts off to very exact dimensions..... Kinda like parting on the lathe.....


----------



## DavidR8

Cooter Brown said:


> To cut parts off to very exact dimensions..... Kinda like parting on the lathe.....



Oh that makes complete sense. 
It’s hard to imagine a cutoff wheel as a precision tool.


----------



## Cooter Brown

DavidR8 said:


> Oh that makes complete sense.
> It’s hard to imagine a cutoff wheel as a precision tool.



When you mount a cut off on an arbor you need to make sure to have 2 extra plates on both side of the wheel about 3" od 25" thick to make the wheel a little more rigid.... Center the spindex spindle with the grinder spindle and plunge the wheel while turning the spindex against the rotation of the grinder (so climb grinding only)......

Also for parting hardened materials.....


----------



## DavidR8

Cooter Brown said:


> When you mount a cut off on an arbor you need to make sure to have 2 extra plates on both side of the wheel about 3" od 25" thick to make the wheel a little more rigid.... Center the spindex spindle with the grinder spindle and plunge the wheel while turning the spindex against the rotation of the grinder (so climb grinding only)......



I think that I have those plates too


----------



## ChrisAttebery

I bought a new Kurt DX4 vise for my Grizzly G0704 CNC conversion mill. It's so much nicer than the import vise it's replacing.


----------



## devils4ever

Chris, that's the same one I have. I'm sure you'll love it!


----------



## Janderso

BGHansen said:


> Few additions to the shop.  I have a buddy who is now a supplier rep at our plant; he retired after 40 years as a machinist 15 years ago.  He was cleaning out his tool box and brought me a few goodies.  He gifted me a Mitutoyo protractor, a Starrett divider and inside caliper, and a set of gauge blocks.  Taking he and his wife out to dinner once we all get vaccinated.
> 
> 
> View attachment 347760
> 
> View attachment 347762
> 
> View attachment 347761
> 
> View attachment 347763
> 
> View attachment 347764
> 
> 
> 
> Rest are wins off eBay.  I was tracking a nice set of Ace taps/dies from 4-36 - 1/2 in NC/NF and out of the blue got a seller offer for $65 delivered.  They came with what I believe is an original hold-open bracket for the plastic lid.  The "U" shaped piece of sheet metal sets on the hinge and holds the polypropylene top open.
> 
> View attachment 347765
> 
> View attachment 347768
> 
> View attachment 347769
> 
> 
> Next are some double-cut cobalt HSS burrs for the 1913 Erector set motor and other projects.  Think they were around $12 each.
> View attachment 347766
> 
> 
> Some 1" x 2" x 24" A36 bar stock for the 1913 Erector set motors.  This was $60 delivered from Midwest Metals
> View attachment 347767
> 
> 
> Couple of ball bearing ER32 collet nuts from Rocky Mountain CNC, $20 each delivered
> View attachment 347770
> 
> 
> Didn't need it but stumbled on a Buy It Now for $30 for a mostly complete Huot drill index and drills.  It was missing around 20 drills.
> View attachment 347771
> 
> View attachment 347772
> 
> 
> Picked up another 1/2" - 1 5/8"(?) 1/8" thick parallel set.  I have a set in my shared Bridgeport/Jet mill tool box.  Added a second just in case.  $25 delivered off eBay.
> View attachment 347773




Bruce,
You seem to win every time.
You kinda suck my friend.


----------



## Aaron_W

I got a new book, well new to me anyway, it was printed in 1942 so it is actually kind of old.


----------



## Dhal22

Aaron_W said:


> I got a new book, well new to me anyway, it was printed in 1942 so it is actually kind of old.
> 
> View attachment 348504



For for some reason hydraulics interest me, maybe my father being an engineer and I being a plumber has something to do with it.  Anyway, I have several college text books from the 1800's on the topic.  The book owner's name being hand written makes them especially cool.


----------



## Papa Charlie

BGHansen said:


> Few additions to the shop.  I have a buddy who is now a supplier rep at our plant; he retired after 40 years as a machinist 15 years ago.  He was cleaning out his tool box and brought me a few goodies.  He gifted me a Mitutoyo protractor, a Starrett divider and inside caliper, and a set of gauge blocks.  Taking he and his wife out to dinner once we all get vaccinated.
> 
> 
> View attachment 347760
> 
> View attachment 347762
> 
> View attachment 347761
> 
> View attachment 347763
> 
> View attachment 347764
> 
> 
> 
> Rest are wins off eBay.  I was tracking a nice set of Ace taps/dies from 4-36 - 1/2 in NC/NF and out of the blue got a seller offer for $65 delivered.  They came with what I believe is an original hold-open bracket for the plastic lid.  The "U" shaped piece of sheet metal sets on the hinge and holds the polypropylene top open.
> 
> View attachment 347765
> 
> View attachment 347768
> 
> View attachment 347769
> 
> 
> Next are some double-cut cobalt HSS burrs for the 1913 Erector set motor and other projects.  Think they were around $12 each.
> View attachment 347766
> 
> 
> Some 1" x 2" x 24" A36 bar stock for the 1913 Erector set motors.  This was $60 delivered from Midwest Metals
> View attachment 347767
> 
> 
> Couple of ball bearing ER32 collet nuts from Rocky Mountain CNC, $20 each delivered
> View attachment 347770
> 
> 
> Didn't need it but stumbled on a Buy It Now for $30 for a mostly complete Huot drill index and drills.  It was missing around 20 drills.
> View attachment 347771
> 
> View attachment 347772
> 
> 
> Picked up another 1/2" - 1 5/8"(?) 1/8" thick parallel set.  I have a set in my shared Bridgeport/Jet mill tool box.  Added a second just in case.  $25 delivered off eBay.
> View attachment 347773



You know Bruce, it isn't that you win these, it is what you end up paying for them. A shamed you should be!


----------



## Dhal22

Picked up a nice Kennedy tool chest today.  Heavy, compact and very well made, I'm very happy.


----------



## Buffalo21

I just bought myself a new Christmas present, I bought a ER 40 x D1-4 collect chuck assembly and a set of new ER 40 collet set, also added in a R8 x ER 40 collet chuck


----------



## NCjeeper

Aaron_W said:


> I got a new book, well new to me anyway, it was printed in 1942 so it is actually kind of old.
> 
> View attachment 348504


I have my grandfather's book. Means the world to me because he died when I was only 11.


----------



## DavidR8

Buffalo21 said:


> I just bought myself a new Christmas present, I bought a ER 40 x D1-4 collect chuck assembly and a set of new ER 40 collet set, also added in a R8 x ER 40 collet chuck



I did the same except I went the 5C route. Debated long and hard and did a ton of research. 
It really was the 5C spindexer that was the deciding factor.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

Ah the proverbial rabbit hole that collet collecting can become. After an er set on an R8 that wouldn't fit my older version mill, came an MT3 set that fit but took up too much space. Solution was direct MT3 collets. Then came the spindexer & 4 & 6 sided collet holders for 5C. I use it often & enjoy the wide range of sizes. Next came small & large dividing heads with their 5V & 50V collets. It can be a very deep rabbit hole LOL.


----------



## Buffalo21

DavidR8 said:


> I did the same except I went the 5C route. Debated long and hard and did a ton of research.
> It really was the 5C spindexer that was the deciding factor.



i also have a 5C collet chuck and collets, I purchased this to cover all the bases, I‘ll be able to use the collets in the lathe and the mills.


----------



## BGHansen

Janderso said:


> Bruce,
> You seem to win every time.
> You kinda suck my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Janderso said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I had to stop him after a bit. Once he got started going through stuff the momentum was getting overwhelming.  Had to stop him before I became a new homeowner!
> 
> Bruce
Click to expand...


----------



## jbobb1

Finally replacing my old worn out drill bits.


----------



## erikmannie

I just bought a #3 carbide center drill for $18 delivered.


----------



## fitterman1

Bought some parallels last week, delivered today. Axa toolholder for comparison. Au$250 for the lot.
9 7/8" long x 15/16"wide x 3 7/8" tall for the largest.
9 15/16" long x 11/16" wide x 1 15/16" tall for the middle pair.
7 15/16" long x 11/16" wide x 1 15/16" tall for the smallest.


----------



## Shootymacshootface

fitterman1 said:


> View attachment 348998
> 
> Bought some parallels last week, delivered today. Axa toolholder for comparison. Au$250 for the lot.
> 9 7/8" long x 15/16"wide x 3 7/8" tall for the largest.
> 9 15/16" long x 11/16" wide x 1 15/16" tall for the middle pair.
> 7 15/16" long x 11/16" wide x 1 15/16" tall for the smallest.


Vey nice! 
I bet that you will have to hold those upside down to use them.


----------



## fitterman1

Yep, and downside up at other times.


----------



## NCjeeper

Merry Christmas to me.


*Grizzly G5769 - 48" Pan & Box Brake*

View (33)            Reviews     
Back                          















$625.00
                                +$129.00                                                                                           Freight                                  
                            +$0.00                                                       Oversize
*G5769 48" Pan & Box Brake*
*This bench-type Pan & Box Brake is fully trussed for rigidity and long life.*
The G5769 48" Pan and Box Brake is suitable for many metal forming operations.
Includes plenty of 2", 3" and 4" sizes that can be easily removed or repositioned.
The bed and beam are precision aligned and two independent cam action levers raise the beam well above the bed.
A large counter-balanced handle makes brake operations from 0° to 135° easy for all day use.
Like all Grizzly pan and box brakes, the G5769 comes with a 1-year warranty which covers parts and assures the unit is free from factory defects.
The G5769 manual was written by our U.S. based Technical Documentation Department and is packed with useful information. The complete and easy to read manual makes it easier to assemble and maintain your pan and box brake.
The Grizzly Customer Service and Technical Support Teams are U.S. based. Parts and accessories for the pan and box brake are available on-line and shipped from the Grizzly parts warehouse in Springfield, MO.
*SPECIFICATIONS:*

Maximum capacity: 48"
Maximum height of pan/box sides: 3"
Number of each box finger size: 2"(5), 3"(6), 4"(5)
Footprint: 52" x 12"
Mild Steel Gauge: 16-gauge at half width, 18-gauge at full width
Approx. shipping weight: 335 lbs.
*FEATURES:*

Hardened steel box fingers
Left and right beam control levers
Large counter balanced brake handle
Brakes from 0° - 135°
Finger sizes of 2", 3", 4"
Fully trussed for strength and precision


----------



## rwm

I was wondering how that would compare to this brake?









						KAKA Industrial PBB-4012, 40-Inch Pan and Box Brake Foot Clamp, Max Cl
					

About KAKA Industrial: A Company Delivers High Quality Products with Fast Shipment and Lowest Price Possible. We Always Fulfill What We Have Promised KAKA Industrial 40-Inch Pan and Box Brake Foot clamp OverviewThe PBB-4012 is designed to clamp the sheet metal with a convenient foot...




					www.kakaindustrial.com
				




Robert


----------



## SRay53TxTn

Based on positive feedback and recommendations - Received my new Shars 440V 4" vise today.
Waiting for the PM728-VT to arrive, looks like mid-January.
I think I may be a tool or tool addict.


----------



## NCjeeper

rwm said:


> I was wondering how that would compare to this brake?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> KAKA Industrial PBB-4012, 40-Inch Pan and Box Brake Foot Clamp, Max Cl
> 
> 
> About KAKA Industrial: A Company Delivers High Quality Products with Fast Shipment and Lowest Price Possible. We Always Fulfill What We Have Promised KAKA Industrial 40-Inch Pan and Box Brake Foot clamp OverviewThe PBB-4012 is designed to clamp the sheet metal with a convenient foot...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.kakaindustrial.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Robert


KAKA makes some nice stuff. I have their slip roller machine.


----------



## DavidR8

My diamond dresser arrived today!


----------



## Aukai

Found a lot of cut off blades that had 2 Empire P2s (bottom 2)in the lot, and got it for 20 bucks.


----------



## Braeden P

Got an 1 inch carbide Anderson hand scraper but don’t have a way to put a radius on the blade  a bit stiff but what do I know.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a 10mm lathe chuck key on eBay. It will be shipped from mainland China. It was $15.42 delivered.

This is to have a second chuck key for use with the 4 jaw chuck.


----------



## Cooter Brown

Braeden P said:


> Got an 1 inch carbide Anderson hand scraper but don’t have a way to put a radius on the blade  a bit stiff but what do I know.



You need to get/build a carbide lapping machine or chuck up a lapping disc in the lathe..... The blade needs a negative 5 degree angle on both sides....
About 200-400 RPM


You will need an 600 grit and 1500 grit....









						6 Inch THK Diamond Flat Lap wheel Lapidary grinding polishing disc Grit 60 ~3000  | eBay
					

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 6 Inch THK Diamond Flat Lap wheel Lapidary grinding polishing disc Grit 60 ~3000 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



					www.ebay.com


----------



## Braeden P

Yea I will make one I have an old motor or two that I will use but I god amazon gift cards so I will find some of those disks on scamazon. The only motor that will work is a 1910s 1/4hp but it weights 35 lbs it’s a big boy might need to order one.


----------



## Cooter Brown

Braeden P said:


> Yea I will make one I have an old motor or two that I will use but I god amazon gift cards so I will find some of those disks on scamazon. The only motor that will work is a 1910s 1/4hp but it weights 35 lbs it’s a big boy might need to order one.



Make sure to use something like wd40 or windex for lubricant while lapping....



			https://www.amazon.com/Sydien-Polishing-Grinding-Sharpening-3000Grit/dp/B07C71N7RL/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=polishing%2Bdisc%2B6in&qid=1609335201&sr=8-6&th=1


----------



## DLF

Cutest 3” (80mm) bench vise. Found it in my parents garage.

Looks ugly but the jaw movement is really smooth. Will be a nice restoration project.








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Braeden P

Ok I will use that one good reviews with carbide so time to build the grinder!


----------



## rwm

That is one of those European made vises where the outboard jaw is fixed and the inboard jaw is moveable with a ground dovetail. They are really cool.
Similar are made in Germany by Leinen


Robert


----------



## Janderso

DavidR8 said:


> My diamond dresser arrived today!
> 
> David,
> How's the surface grinder coming along? I have that dresser too.


----------



## brino

DLF said:


> Cutest 3” (80mm) bench vise. Found it in my parents garage.
> Looks ugly but the jaw movement is really smooth. Will be a nice restoration project.



Looks stout. 
Probably weighs more than some 6-inchers....

-brino


----------



## DavidR8

Janderso said:


> David,
> How's the surface grinder coming along? I have that dresser too.



It’s all back together but I haven’t used it since reassembly because I ran out of way oil. A gallon of oil accompanied the diamond dresser so now I’m good to go. 

I’m also in the midst of building bathroom cabinetry so there’s a bit of a logjam in the shop.


----------



## WobblyHand

Cooter Brown said:


> Make sure to use something like wd40 or windex for lubricant while lapping....
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Sydien-Polishing-Grinding-Sharpening-3000Grit/dp/B07C71N7RL/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=polishing%2Bdisc%2B6in&qid=1609335201&sr=8-6&th=1


In September, I bought some 100 mm diamond discs for around $1.90 each from Aliexpress.  Might be an alternative, if you are willing to wait for delivery.  Mine took about 6 weeks to arrive.  I got 14 discs, 7 different grits for $43.88 including shipping.  They seem to be the same 1mm thick discs sold just about everywhere.  Diamond lapping discs


----------



## Weldingrod1

I stick my discs on with magnets buried in the Aluminium disc. Make sure you recess them at least 1/2mm or the hole fills up with crud too quickly. 
You also need a drive pin near the shaft. See Stephan Gottswinter.

Slow... you are really looking for a gear motor. 400-1000 rpm or so works. I had a pile of big DC motors, so mine is DC. ;-)

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## Mini Cooper S

In making some bushings recently, I realized that my 9/16” drill was junk, so I replaced it. I always grind 3 flats on my larger straight shank drills so I decided to buy a set of 5C collet blocks. I don’t really need them as I have at least 2 other methods to do the job, I just wanted them!
Richard


----------



## Braeden P

Weldingrod1 said:


> I stick my discs on with magnets buried in the Aluminium disc. Make sure you recess them at least 1/2mm or the hole fills up with crud too quickly.
> You also need a drive pin near the shaft. See Stephan Gottswinter.
> 
> Slow... you are really looking for a gear motor. 400-1000 rpm or so works. I had a pile of big DC motors, so mine is DC. ;-)
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


I got amazon gift cards so I will buy the wheels and the motor and other parts so that will be easy.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a lathe chuck key for my other lathe’s 4 jaw chuck. This is a 9/32”. $18 delivered.




I leave 4 jaw chucks in my lathes. Best to have 2 chuck keys when centering work.


----------



## Cooter Brown

Braeden P said:


> Yea I will make one I have an old motor or two that I will use but I god amazon gift cards so I will find some of those disks on scamazon. The only motor that will work is a 1910s 1/4hp but it weights 35 lbs it’s a big boy might need to order one.



A motor with a gear head would be the best so you can mount the plate right to the motor but you can use that motor and a couple pulleys to get the speed right with a spindle if that not an option....

I bought a "Bodine Gear Motor" on fleebay for mine.....


----------



## Braeden P

I can get a speed controller for about 10 bucks and I have a laser tachometer so I can change the speed I am thinking about putting in a transformer too I was into electronics for 3 years before machining so I know how to wire it and build a full bridge rectifier not a single punny diode I doubt anyone would get that pun (hint watch elecroboom on YouTube) but I will look for a dc transformer.


----------



## erikmannie

10mm female square plug socket for $11 delivered. This is to put on a 3/8” drive socket wrench to speed up loosening & tightening the drawbar on a PM-25MV mill.


----------



## Janderso

I like old stuff!
Looking through some stuff this morning I found this. I hadn't noticed the Brown and Sharpe lettering before.
I decided to do a patent search.
I don't think it's a B&S.

Patent#2141627 = 1937, by Chauncey C Street. Sponsor-Federal Products Corp.
It works fine and repeats.
Love the box!


----------



## gr8legs

A recent purchase for outfitting the locksmith truck: the Freight, Harbor
*2-3/4 in. Articulated Vacuum Vise*

I didn't expect much but it is really quite good.  Suction cup sticks firmly to the slightly pebbled work surface and so far hasn't let go after 24+ hours, the ball and socket swivel is smooth and locks down nicely. Comes with a set of soft jaws and all for under 20 bucks. 

Fit and finish appears to be as good as the General Tool vise I used the heck out of and is now retired to the 'shelf of treasured but worn out' tools.


----------



## gr8legs

In another thread I listed 'stuff' for my new truck, at that time the Freight, Harbor 2,000 watt inverter I installed was $169 - 




So far I'm really happy with it but no idea of the longevity but there's a coupon for it on the HF site that expires today (12/31) that brings it down $40 to $129. I picked up another one to be a spare or put into the motorhome as needed. 

I'd definitely get the 2 year replacewment warranty on something like this.

Sorry for the late notice 

Stu


----------



## Dhal22

gr8legs said:


> A recent purchase for outfitting the locksmith truck: the Freight, Harbor
> *2-3/4 in. Articulated Vacuum Vise*
> 
> I didn't expect much but it is really quite good.  Suction cup sticks firmly to the slightly pebbled work surface and so far hasn't let go after 24+ hours, the ball and socket swivel is smooth and locks down nicely. Comes with a set of soft jaws and all for under 20 bucks.
> 
> Fit and finish appears to be as good as the General Tool vise I used the heck out of and is now retired to the 'shelf of treasured but worn out' tools.
> 
> View attachment 349378




I have one of these, works well in my radio control airplane building hobby.


----------



## Janderso

gr8legs said:


> A recent purchase for outfitting the locksmith truck: the Freight, Harbor
> *2-3/4 in. Articulated Vacuum Vise*
> 
> I didn't expect much but it is really quite good.  Suction cup sticks firmly to the slightly pebbled work surface and so far hasn't let go after 24+ hours, the ball and socket swivel is smooth and locks down nicely. Comes with a set of soft jaws and all for under 20 bucks.
> 
> Fit and finish appears to be as good as the General Tool vise I used the heck out of and is now retired to the 'shelf of treasured but worn out' tools.
> 
> View attachment 349378


I don't know why but when I read vacuum vise, I assumed it was for holding the nozzle while machining. 
I can't believe I just admitted it amongst friends. 
Have a safe evening you'all!


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a 9” length of 3 15/16” diameter 1045 steel round bar. $80.65 delivered.

This is to make a #6 1/2 Morse taper (some would say “proprietary”) one piece dead center.


----------



## Janderso

That seems expensive.
Steel sure has gone up!


----------



## Buffalo21

I bought a piece of 12”L x 6” diameter, about 2 yrs ago for about $175, the similar piece of 12” L x 6” diameter nylon was about $210.


----------



## BGHansen

More stuff for the shop.  Some eBay pick-ups by me, some Christmas stuff from my list and something off Craig's List.

First an air filer from Harbor Freight.  My plan was to use it to file radii on the ends of the armatures for the 1913 Erector set motor project.  I recall the filer being around $17 from HF.  The files are absolute garbage, just insert them directly into the trash.  It works okay with a Grobet #0 flat needle file, stroke is about 1/4".




Next are a number of Christmas gifts.

I thought I had some stubby ratchets, but alas don't know where they are.  Also got some Irwin buggered-up bolt/screw removers.



Package of hooks for hanging stuff in the shop



1/4" square to 1/4" hex universal joint



Another ER32 ball-bearing collet nut



A set of Sandflex sanding blocks.  I use these to clean off mild rust.  They are like a rubber eraser with grit.



Anti-glare hood for a welding helmet




Replacement 200/300 MCMN tool holders for the lathes.  Why replacements?  Did a bad thing trying to part the 1913 Erector motor armatures which have a wide interrupted cut.  Carnage ensued on the tool holders.  Finally got smart and used a HSS cut off tool.  These were from eBay seller Zimi-hk; something like $12 - $15 each in a 5/8" square tool holder.



I bought 3 Cushman 0-1/4" drill chucks off eBay a while back for $17 including shipping.  Bought 3 TTS arbors for use on the Tormach mill.  I've got my drill chucks set up as tool number 80 on up in the tool offset table.  Nice to have multiple chucks for specific drill bits so I don't have to swap bits and remeasure the tool lengths when running multiple jobs.




I've been looking for a dual-purpose metal/wood bandsaw for years.  I looked at a 20" DoAll a week ago; did a 2 1/2 hour drive with cash in hand and the trailer behind our Traverse.  The saw was wired to a static phase converter.  The seller's brother fired it up and couldn't get the saw to start.  He called his brother (the seller) who said to bang the phase converter against the wall a couple of times.  The light would come on and drop out.  He held the saw's START button down; big BANG and smoke from the phase converter after that.  Long story longer, didn't buy the saw.  We have 20" and 36" DoAll saws at work that I've drooled over, but never used.  Standing next to that 20" saw gave me a different perspective on shear size.  I settled on this 1948 16" model ML saw instead ($750).

The saw is in really good shape though it's not perfect.  The speedometer is missing its needle and the auto-feed unit is missing.  I have a HF 7 x 12 horizontal saw, hopefully won't miss the power feed too much.  The weight and foot pedal still work, I could throw something together like the original cable/chain set up as yet another POTD.



I didn't take pictures of my rigging for the hour drive home.  I lagged 2 x 4's around the base of the saw, then looped tie straps from the side of the trailer to the opposite side under the table.  Those were hold downs and did nothing for tipping.  I looped additional tie straps around the blade welder area; these were tied to the same side of the trailer on both sides for tipping.



I've been very happy with my Harbor Freight gantry crane.  However, my shop only has a 10' ceiling and a 7' tall DoAll saw on our trailer sets about 8 1/2' high; don't have the height to pick tall stuff off the trailer directly in the shop.  I end up backing the trailer into the unfinished back of the barn and crank the gantry crane up between a couple of trusses to gain the height.  That lets me get stuff off the trailer and moved into the shop.  Yeah, a pallet jack could come in handy. . .

For the safety Nazi's out there, I ran a 4 x 6 under the saw and tie-strapped it to the saw.  Then ran 2000 lbs. rated tie straps around the 4 x 6 up to the chain fall (one on each side).  Also ran a safety chain around the 4 x 6 and chain fall in case a tie strap failed (they didn't).




I know most guys go with VFD's for 3-phase, but I'll be going with a static phase converter for this saw.  I have a 220 push button ON/OFF switch that'll be wired to the supply side of the phase converter.  Means I'll have to hit two ON buttons to power on the saw; just makes sense to me to not leave the phase converter energized all of the time.  I know I'll only get 2/3 of the 1 HP saw motor, but I don't plan on resawing any 8" thick pieces of hickory.  Will be heading to Menards for some heavy-duty casters as I want the saw to be mobile.

Thanks for looking, Bruce


----------



## Ianagos

BGHansen said:


> More stuff for the shop. Some eBay pick-ups by me, some Christmas stuff from my list and something off Craig's List.
> 
> First and air filer from Harbor Freight. My plan was to use it to file radii on the ends of the armatures for the 1913 Erector set motor project. I recall the filer being around $17 from HF. The files are absolute garbage, just insert them directly in the trash. It works okay with a Grobet #0 flat needle file, stroke is about 1/4".
> View attachment 349492
> 
> 
> 
> Next are a number of Christmas gifts.
> 
> I thought I had some stubby ratchets, but alas don't know where they are. Also got some Irwin buggered-up bolt/screw removers.
> View attachment 349493
> 
> 
> Package of hooks for hanging stuff in the shop
> View attachment 349494
> 
> 
> 1/4" square to 1/4" hex universal joint
> View attachment 349495
> 
> 
> Another ER32 ball-bearing collet nut
> View attachment 349496
> 
> 
> A set of Sandflex sanding blocks. I use these to clean off mild rust. They are like a rubber eraser with grit.
> View attachment 349497
> 
> 
> Anti-glare hood for a welding helmet
> View attachment 349498
> 
> 
> 
> Replacement 200/300 MCMN tool holders for the lathes. Why replacements? Did a bad thing trying to part the 1913 Erector motor armatures which have a wide interrupted cut. Carnage ensued on the tool holders. Finally got smart and used a HSS cut off tool. These were from eBay seller Zimi-hk; something like $12 - $15 each in a 5/8" square tool holder.
> View attachment 349500
> 
> 
> I bought 3 Cushman 0-1/4" drill chucks off eBay a while back for $17 including shipping. Bought 3 TTS arbors for use on the Tormach mill. I've got my drill chucks set up as tool number 80 on up in the tool offset table. Nice to have multiple chucks for specific drill bits so I don't have to swap bits and remeasure the tool lengths when running multiple jobs.
> View attachment 349499
> 
> 
> 
> I've been looking for a dual-purpose metal/wood bandsaw for years. I looked at a 20" DoAll a week ago; did a 2 1/2 hour drive with cash in hand and the trailer behind our Traverse. The saw was wired to a static phase converter. The seller's brother fired it up and couldn't get the saw to start. He called his brother (the seller) who said to bang the phase converter against the wall a couple of times. The light would come on and drop out. He held the saw's START button down; big BANG and smoke from the phase converter after that. Long story longer, didn't but the saw. We have 20" and 36" DoAll saws at work that I've drooled over, but never used. Standing next to that 20" saw gave me a different perspective on shear size. I settled on this 1948 16" model ML saw instead ($750).
> 
> The saw is in really good shape though it's not perfect. The speedometer is missing its needle and the auto-feed unit is missing. I have a HF 7 x 12 horizontal saw, hopefully won't miss the power feed too much. The weight and foot pedal still work, I could throw something together like the original cable/chain set up.
> View attachment 349503
> 
> 
> I didn't take pictures of my rigging for the hour drive home. I lagged 2 x 4's around the base of the saw, then looped tie straps from the side of the trailer to the opposite side under the table. Those were hold downs, but do nothing for tipping. I looped additional tie straps around the blade welder area; these were tied to the same side of the trailer for tipping.
> View attachment 349501
> 
> 
> I've been very happy with my Harbor Freight gantry crane. However, my shop only has a 10' ceiling and a 7' tall DoAll saw on our trailer sets about 8 1/2' high; don't have the height to pick tall stuff off the trailer directly in the shop. I end up backing the trailer into the unfinished back of the barn and crank the gantry crane up between a couple of trusses to gain the height. That lets me get stuff off the trailer and moved into the shop. Yeah, a pallet jack could come in handy. . .
> 
> For the safety Nazi's out there, I ran a 4 x 6 under the saw and tie-strapped it to the saw. Then ran 2000 lbs. rated tie straps around the 4 x 6 up to the chain fall (one on each side). Also ran a safety chain around the 4 x 6 and chain fall in case a tie strap failed (they didn't).
> View attachment 349502
> 
> 
> 
> I know most guys go with VFD's for 3-phase, but I'll be going with a static phase converter for this saw. I have a 220 push button ON/OFF switch that'll be wired to the supply side of the phase converter. Means I'll have to hit two ON buttons to power on the saw; just makes sense to me to not leave the phase converter energized all of the time. I know I'll only get 2/3 of the 1 HP saw motor, but I don't plan on resawing any 8" thick pieces of hickory. Will be heading to Menards for some heavy-duty casters as I want the saw to be mobile.
> 
> Thanks for looking, Bruce



That’s a nice saw I’ve been wanting a nice one like that for a while but as always I’m short on space and time


----------



## erikmannie

4” diameter, 10” length of 1045 for $98.37 delivered. Landed cost for this hot rolled steel is $2.73/lb.


----------



## Papa Charlie

@BGHansen Nice saw, congratulations.

I would love to find one like that in my area, but when I have, they want a fortune for them well over $2000, just crazy.


----------



## 7milesup

Purchased 8 of these 3"x1-13/16 swivel casters with brake.  400lb capacity each. $55 delivered from Surplus Center.


----------



## Ianagos

I haven’t got it rigged in yet but my newest acquisition.












It’s coming with a 5axis head and all the wiring to get that going.

This will be my first simultaneous 5axis machine.


----------



## DiscoDan

I really need to stop cruising the online auctions. Yesterday I went picked up five Tesa/Etalon Swiss mics, a P. Roche Swiss mic, and some Mitutoyo pieces.


----------



## erikmannie

My wife got me two Blink Mini cameras for $44 to always have a live view of my shop. There is no monthly fee. The app is on my phone.


----------



## Braeden P

DiscoDan said:


> I really need to stop cruising the online auctions. Yesterday I went picked up five Tesa/Etalon Swiss mics, a P. Roche Swiss mic, and some Mitutoyo pieces.


How to see if you need more tool t+1 you will always need more tools


----------



## Aaron_W

erikmannie said:


> My wife got me two Blink Mini cameras for $44 to always have a live view of my shop. There is no monthly fee. The app is on my phone.
> 
> View attachment 349572
> View attachment 349573



Maybe it is just the fisheye of the camera but strangely it looks like you have more room in the shop after you moved the big lathe in there.


----------



## ACHiPo

BGHansen said:


> The seller's brother fired it up and couldn't get the saw to start.  He called his brother (the seller) who said to bang the phase converter against the wall a couple of times.  The light would come on and drop out.  He held the saw's START button down; big BANG and smoke from the phase converter after that.  Long story longer, didn't buy the saw.


Bruce that made me chuckle and I must admit thinking not-so-fond thoughts of my days in IN and MI.

Nice saw!



BGHansen said:


> I know most guys go with VFD's for 3-phase, but I'll be going with a static phase converter for this saw.  I have a 220 push button ON/OFF switch that'll be wired to the supply side of the phase converter.  Means I'll have to hit two ON buttons to power on the saw; just makes sense to me to not leave the phase converter energized all of the time.  I know I'll only get 2/3 of the 1 HP saw motor, but I don't plan on resawing any 8" thick pieces of hickory.  Will be heading to Menards for some heavy-duty casters as I want the saw to be mobile.
> 
> Thanks for looking, Bruce


Why a static converter?  After making the plunge with the North American Phase Converter RPC I'm pretty happy and won't hesitate to add more 3 phase toys to the shop.  I have a VFD on my mill and like the easy speed change capability, but went with an RPC so as not to have to do a brain transplant on my lathe.


----------



## Weldingrod1

Please let is know what you think of the glare blocker! I'm very tempted, as I have issues with my LED shop lights!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## hman

BGHansen said:


> More stuff for the shop.  Some eBay pick-ups by me, some Christmas stuff from my list and something off Craig's List.
> 
> First an air filer from Harbor Freight.  My plan was to use it to file radii on the ends of the armatures for the 1913 Erector set motor project.  I recall the filer being around $17 from HF.  The files are absolute garbage, just insert them directly into the trash.  It works okay with a Grobet #0 flat needle file, stroke is about 1/4".
> View attachment 349492


Durn!  Too bad the files are no good.  I'd had the wild hair thought that they could probably be adapted for use on a die filer


----------



## Watchwatch

ACHiPo said:


> Bruce that made me chuckle and I must admit thinking not-so-fond thoughts of my days in IN and MI.
> 
> Nice saw!
> 
> 
> Why a static converter? After making the plunge with the North American Phase Converter RPC I'm pretty happy and won't hesitate to add more 3 phase toys to the shop. I have a VFD on my mill and like the easy speed change capability, but went with an RPC so as not to have to do a brain transplant on my lathe.



Exactly what I did, for the exact same reasons. 

A 1hp vfd can be had pretty cheap.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## schmidty13

Yesterday I bought a Haas TL-1.   For over a year now, this has been the planned next step in expanding my home business.  In the last few weeks things all lined up perfectly so I decided now was the time to take the plunge. 

It's a 2011 model with only 128 spindle hours.  It's in a tech school.  Now I'm just impatiently waiting delivery.


----------



## Aukai

Bruce that is the exact same year as my saw, and price too, but mine cost a little more with shipping


----------



## BGHansen

Aukai said:


> Bruce that is the exact same year as my saw, and price too, but mine cost a little more with shipping


I looked "under the hood" yesterday and looked at the speedo set up. The belt to the pillow block for driving the speedo cable was missing, but the pulleys are there. Found the belt laying on the base, but it's shot. Gates 1290s are under $10 on eBay. Also looked at the speedo and see the needle has slipped off the shaft.

Holy crap is that saw sturdy! I'd hate to see the shipping bill to Hawaii!

Bruce


----------



## 7milesup

schmidty13 said:


> Yesterday I bought a Haas TL-1.   For over a year now, this has been the planned next step in expanding my home business.  In the last few weeks things all lined up perfectly so I decided now was the time to take the plunge.
> 
> It's a 2011 model with only 128 spindle hours.  It's in a tech school.  Now I'm just impatiently waiting delivery.
> 
> View attachment 349635



That is quite the machine!
If I may ask, what do you plan on making with it?


----------



## schmidty13

7milesup said:


> That is quite the machine!
> If I may ask, what do you plan on making with it?


Anything the customer wants!    Right now that is various pins and bushings for a manufacturer of ag machinery, but I'll add to that as my skill set and customer base expand.


----------



## 7milesup

schmidty13 said:


> Anything the customer wants!    Right now that is various pins and bushings for a manufacturer of ag machinery, but I'll add to that as my skill set and customer base expand.


Sweet.  I wish the best of luck to you.  I grew up on a large dairy farm in NW WI.  I have very close ties yet to farming.  My brother's farm is 4300 acres. which is huge down here.  Up there by you it is just a garden!


----------



## Aukai

I guess it was cheap because it didn't come in a wooden box. I'm feeling like I'm starting to get influenced on packaging
I guarantee I will donate blood to the tail stock sooner or later, its sharp...


----------



## rwm

It's not really a good project if no blood is spilled...
R


----------



## schmidty13

Aukai said:


> I guess it was cheap because it didn't come in a wooden box. I'm feeling like I'm starting to get influenced on packaging
> I guarantee I will donate blood to the tail stock sooner or later, its sharp...



Nothing cheap about a Royal live center.  Very nice.


----------



## Gaffer

Last weekend, I picked up a HF sandblast cabinet from CL. It came withe 1HP dust collector, glass protectors, and lots of new and and slightly used glass beads. Today I picked up some pipe fittings and and built a media siphon with metering valve that attached to the dump door on the underside. As always for me, I didn't but the part for the air inlet. It would have been quicker, and costlier, to run back to the store, but I didn't. I drilled out a bolt lengthwise, and then drilled several small holes at different levels near the top. I drilled and tapped the feed pipe for the bolt and Loctite'd in place. I'm waiting on coupling so I can mount my hi-flow air fitting on the front, with a fitting to barb fitting behind it to feed the gun.


----------



## DavidR8

Aukai said:


> I guess it was cheap because it didn't come in a wooden box. I'm feeling like I'm starting to get influenced on packaging
> I guarantee I will donate blood to the tail stock sooner or later, its sharp...



I’ve got a scar from mine! 
For the record blood stains cast iron.


----------



## Z2V

Aukai said:


> I guess it was cheap because it didn't come in a wooden box. I'm feeling like I'm starting to get influenced on packaging
> I guarantee I will donate blood to the tail stock sooner or later, its sharp...


I draw blood every time I use the tail stock.
What a shame that you center was delivered in a cardboard box, it deserves better.


----------



## rwm

Is there a good reason the tailstock centers need to have a sharp point? The very tip does not actually contact the work in use. Why not knock the tip down a millimeter?
Robert


----------



## rwm

I didn't buy it yet, but I have been researching boring heads. I was wondering how a Shars 2" compared to the Criterion and I found this video. Any one else contemplating boring heads?





Robert


----------



## projectnut

Since Christmas just passed, and I "needed a few new tools I took the plunge on some pin/plug gauges.  On the advice from a number of professionals, and those from another board I went with some no name ones.  I think they're imports, but all the identification (such as it is) seems to point to the fact that they were made in the USA. 

It's hard to believe it would be economical to import the pins individually then put them in a case made here and add anti rust paper also made here.  In any case all those I've used so far do measure to the labeled size -.0002 as expected.

Here are some pictures of the sets.  The set on the left is .061 - .250.  The one on the right is .251 - .500.  I could have gone nuts and bought sets up to 2.000", but anything over .500 can be measured with the inside micrometers, or snap gauges I already have.


----------



## NCjeeper

rwm said:


> I didn't buy it yet, but I have been researching boring heads. I was wondering how a Shars 2" compared to the Criterion and I found this video. Any one else contemplating boring heads?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Robert


I have Shars 2" and 3" boring heads. I have their older kits that came with the brazed on carbide bars. Both heads work as they should. This new kit looks nice.


----------



## Shootymacshootface

I just bought these Starrett snap guages on ebay last night. They are just the sizes that I wanted in a nice little set.


----------



## Jim F

Just sent the order in for this.




__





						Screwless Vise with Clamping Slots | Screwless Vise for Sale
					

Securely hold work on your milling machine. This blemished 3" screwless vise has a one-piece body and slots on the side so you can easily clamp it to the milling table with a clamping kit.




					littlemachineshop.com
				




Added 4 clamps to the order,also.


----------



## erikmannie

15/64” carbide 4 flute stub end mill. $13 delivered.


----------



## DavidR8

projectnut said:


> Since Christmas just passed, and I "needed a few new tools I took the plunge on some pin/plug gauges. On the advice from a number of professionals, and those from another board I went with some no name ones. I think they're imports, but all the identification (such as it is) seems to point to the fact that they were made in the USA.
> 
> It's hard to believe it would be economical to import the pins individually then put them in a case made here and add anti rust paper also made here. In any case all those I've used so far do measure to the labeled size -.0002 as expected.
> 
> Here are some pictures of the sets. The set on the left is .061 - .250. The one on the right is .251 - .500. I could have gone nuts and bought sets up to 2.000", but anything over .500 can be measured with the inside micrometers, or snap gauges I already have.



May I ask where you bought those sets?


----------



## DavidR8

rwm said:


> I didn't buy it yet, but I have been researching boring heads. I was wondering how a Shars 2" compared to the Criterion and I found this video. Any one else contemplating boring heads?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Robert



I have a 2” Criterion that takes 1/2” shank tooling. It was used and I had to replace one of the set screws that holds the gib. Other that that it’s excellent.


----------



## erikmannie

rwm said:


> I didn't buy it yet, but I have been researching boring heads. I was wondering how a Shars 2" compared to the Criterion and I found this video. Any one else contemplating boring heads?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Robert




I have the R8 2” Shars boring head linked below. It does fine; no complaints.





__





						2" Adjustable Boring Heads With Removable R8 Shank
					

Shars Tool




					www.shars.com


----------



## CootaStew

I bought this Bandsaw on Friday. It's a UE-250S model, I don't know what the make is though It came with two roller conveyor stands, a couple of single support stands and a repetitive stop for one of the roller conveyor stands and four new blades. I've yet to get it in my workshop, tried on Sunday but gave up coz of the rain.


----------



## projectnut

DavidR8 said:


> May I ask where you bought those sets?


I purchased the gauges on eBay from CME Tools out of Madison Heights Michigan.  Here's a link to their online store:

CME Tools | eBay Stores

I bought these 2 sets:

Pin Gage Set M1(-) 0.061-0.250",190 pins,-0.0002" minus metal case-707A-MC-new​https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pin-Gage-S...599001?hash=item48b3d30f59:g:z2EAAOSwoqZfTSce
Pin Gage Set M2(-) 0.251-0.500", minus Tolerance 250 Pins metal case #707B-755MC​https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pin-Gage-S...133169?hash=item48bd649df1:g:BT0AAOSwXO5fdKo4
The company has several others and the prices are all over the map.  I chose these on the advice of several professional shop owners I worked with in the past.  They advised me to avoid the "certified" sets unless I was doing work for someone who required ISO certification.


----------



## 682bear

ACHiPo said:


> Why a static converter?  After making the plunge with the North American Phase Converter RPC I'm pretty happy and won't hesitate to add more 3 phase toys to the shop.  I have a VFD on my mill and like the easy speed change capability, but went with an RPC so as not to have to do a brain transplant on my lathe.



I have a RPC, and still run my vertical band saw off of a static converter... mainly so if I need it out in the shop fitting auto body patch panels, I can wheel it out of the basement on my pallet jack and plug it into my 220 single phase outlet.

It keeps me from running back and forth from the shop to the basement a hundred times while doing body work.

-Bear


----------



## Mini Cooper S

The shop that I served my apprenticeship at had nothing but Wholhaupter boring and facing heads. The are in my opinion, the best that money can buy.  I bought one new in 1978 and like an idiot sold it about a year later.  Since then I have made do with my Criterion boring head, not bad for the money.  This one came up on eBay, it was the lowest priced one that I have seen in years of looking. The only reason that I bought it was that I had $50 in eBay gift cards that my kids gave me last Christmas. That and,as I have said in other posts, I wanted it.
Richard


----------



## Scra99tch

Stopped by the junkyard couple days ago and stumble upon this.  Look like it had taken a hit on the capacitor box and terminal junction box.  Came back with my multimeter and check windings and terminals to ground and everything seems okay.  Took a chance and offered the guy $40.  Its a phase-a-matic 20HP converter.  Too big for my needs but willing to replace and test whats necessary and re-sell to upgrade my 5HP.  





Also picked this up cheap on fcebook.  Its a Thelin Gnome pellet stove.  I was hoping for the best and just a burnt out motor, but control board had a couple of fried components a mosfet, resistor and diode.  Crossing my fingers I can do my novice testing and component replacement and get it to run again.  I have one now and its just a tad too small for my garage.  If I can sell both I'd be able to upgrade.  The prices they want for components are ridiculous.  If all else fails there is a guy who repairs boards for about $250.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by the flea/ tool market, first thing i found and bought was this big anchor chain, a bit short but is still usable for towing 5$. Then i bought this Bosch cordless drill 3$. After that i bought me a wheel wrench 6$. And the find of the day is a clutch kit, for a Renault 4, I'm planning to use it in my fiat 600 project, they are the same spline. Yeah and it was 4$ for the clutch kit.


----------



## hotrats

I got these HSS lathe tools at the flea mkt today. They would be sitting beside the Brown & Sharp wood indicator box, but, seems I only picked up the cutters, and left the B&S box on the table.... lol. Figured it out when I was about 50 miles away... The box was in great shape, contents not so much. I got it for $4. though! lol... Handbook under the tools is original, 1966. think that is what diverted my attention from picking up the box...


----------



## DavidR8

Scooped up a Mighty Midget radius dresser and diamond dresser.


----------



## NCjeeper

^^^
Sweet. I scored one off of E-Bay last year for a decent price.


----------



## francist

DavidR8 said:


> Scooped up a Mighty Midget


Hey, maybe your Mighty Midget should get together with my Simple Simon.....


----------



## DavidR8

My 5C collets also arrived today!


----------



## tonydi

projectnut said:


> I purchased the gauges on eBay from CME Tools out of Madison Heights Michigan.  Here's a link to their online store:
> 
> CME Tools | eBay Stores



Did they burn you on freight?  The smaller set is $25 frt to CA and the larger set is $97 frt!


----------



## projectnut

tonydi said:


> Did they burn you on freight?  The smaller set is $25 frt to CA and the larger set is $97 frt!


Freight was more expensive than I would have thought, but the total cost was still less expensive than the offerings from all the other dealers I checked out.  The smaller set was $13.50 and the larger set was $42.00.  I haven't weighed them, but I would guess the smaller set to weight 5 lbs. to 7 lbs., and the larger set between 25 lbs. and 30 lbs.  

They were packed in a cardboard sleeve, then bubble wrap, and finally packing paper, inside a sturdy cardboard box.


----------



## NCjeeper

If you order the .833-.916 and the .917-1.00 sets they are heavy.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Even my 0.250 to 0.500 has a bit of weight to it.


----------



## Dhal22

I own several of these but they are all in employee's vans.   I bought this one for my personal use.


----------



## DavidR8

Bought a 12" x 18" slab of 3" thick granite.


----------



## hman

@Dhal22 - How noisy is the DeWalt?  I've kinda been thinking about getting one of these "portaband" saws, but the only one I've been able to hear running is the corded Milwaukee one - incredibly noisy!  Did not buy it.


----------



## Jim F

A 6" Horton 3 jaw chuck with 2 piece jaws.


----------



## DavidR8

hman said:


> @Dhal22 - How noisy is the DeWalt? I've kinda been thinking about getting one of these "portaband" saws, but the only one I've been able to hear running is the corded Milwaukee one - incredibly noisy! Did not buy it.



They must have changed the design or something as I used the corded Milwaukees a bunch on the job in the 2000’s and didn’t notice any significant noise. Maybe different (read cheaper) gears?


----------



## Z2V

I have to agree with David, I’ve used Milwaukee porta-bands for years and never considered them noisy. Great tool. 
Now the Beaur, spelling I believe, from Harbor Freight, is very noisy.


----------



## Dhal22

hman said:


> @Dhal22 - How noisy is the DeWalt?  I've kinda been thinking about getting one of these "portaband" saws, but the only one I've been able to hear running is the corded Milwaukee one - incredibly noisy!  Did not buy it.



Hard for me to say as I've used a porta band my entire adult life.   It's a clever very handy tool.


----------



## Papa Charlie

DavidR8 said:


> Bought a 12" x 18" slab of 3" thick granite.



Did you buy a ground piece or some thing else?


----------



## NavyShooter

I checked out the local shop supply places - looking for some inserts for my tooling.  Discovered that they wanted $9-14 per insert for the Chinese stuff...so I went on amazon and found the same stuff - for $20 per set of 10.  

Spent a hundred bucks on inserts.


----------



## DavidR8

Papa Charlie said:


> Did you buy a ground piece or some thing else?



It’s a shop grade surface plate. 
HHIP had a sale so I splurged.


----------



## ttabbal

NavyShooter said:


> I checked out the local shop supply places - looking for some inserts for my tooling.  Discovered that they wanted $9-14 per insert for the Chinese stuff...so I went on amazon and found the same stuff - for $20 per set of 10.
> 
> Spent a hundred bucks on inserts.



Yikes. Yeah, don't spend like that on import inserts. You can get name brand for that price from MSC and similar. For the import stuff I've even been satisfied with banggood.com. Not nearly as nice as the big brands, but good enough for 95% of what I do when I'm not running HSS. Surplus from ebay tends to be good as well, though it can be tough to know you really are getting genuine inserts.


----------



## Jim F

My new to me Starrett Last Word arrived today.
The tool holders I bought the day before are MIA.
Starrett came from Houston TX, tool holders from Winchester VA.


----------



## DavidR8

A couple of gifts arrived today. 
10” faceplate custom made for me. 










A quill mount indicator holder. My Interapid DTI fits perfectly.


----------



## Jim F

Not bought today, but found today in a box of estate sale goodies.
Ford wrench.


----------



## Jim F

Found this also,
From my measuring it appears to be a B&S #9.
If it is I will trade for a MT3 Dead center.


----------



## mickri

Do I dare ask what you intend to do with a 10" face plate?


----------



## DavidR8

mickri said:


> Do I dare ask what you intend to do with a 10" face plate?



It was a bit of a surprise gift but to be completely honest I don’t have a specific project in mind.


----------



## Papa Charlie

DavidR8 said:


> It was a bit of a surprise gift but to be completely honest I don’t have a specific project in mind.



Well when you think of something, you will be ready to go.


----------



## Axismatt

JohnG said:


> I didn't really need this drill press. I've worked with a little Delta bench top drill for a long time, but I have thought a bigger drill might be handy.  I came across this Boice Crane drill in an online auction of a school shop.  Boice Crane made lighter machines, and they were popular with schools.  This Swedish made press, possibly a Solbegra, doesn't fit that pattern.  It has a gear driven spindle, no belts, like a large factory machine for low spindle speed and high torque without slippage.  It has a 2 speed motor, 4 speed gearbox, and a #3 Morse taper that matches the tailstock on my lathe.
> I've cleaned it up but I don't think I'll paint it.  I just need to get the right electrical plug on it to try it out.
> 
> View attachment 320759




I recently bought, what appears to be, the exact same model geared head drill made by JET.  I mean, it looks identical.  If you or anyone has any literature on this unit, I would be much obliged to get a copy.

Matt


----------



## brino

Axismatt said:


> I recently bought, what appears to be, the exact same model geared head drill made by JET. I mean, it looks identical. If you or anyone has any literature on this unit, I would be much obliged to get a copy.



Matt, the Jet website is pretty good for supplying manuals for their machines:
https://www.jettools.com/us/en/service-and-support/manuals/

You didn't mention your model number, so I cannot verify they have it, but it's worth a look.
Good Luck!

-brino


----------



## Axismatt

brino said:


> Matt, the Jet website is pretty good for supplying manuals for their machines:
> https://www.jettools.com/us/en/service-and-support/manuals/
> 
> You didn't mention your model number, so I cannot verify they have it, but it's worth a look.
> Good Luck!
> 
> -brino


Hey Brino,

Thanks.  Yes, I was able to track down an owners manual, but it didn't have a wiring schematic, which I was hoping to take a look at.  I will keep snooping 'til I find it.


----------



## JRaut

I got a new-to-me 5" diameter Suburban Tool magnetic chuck (RMC-5).

Well used, but darn near a steal at $84.

This should round out my lathe chucks for a while. I've got 3-, 4-, and 6-jaw chucks, plus a face plate, and now this magnetic chuck.

Only thing left might be a 5C or ER collet chuck I suppose, but I've got an adapter to accept collets directly in my spindle nose, so I'm not sure a collet chuck would be all that useful anyway.



I also recently got some Brownells Oxpho-Blue and some manganese phosphate Parkerizing concentrate. I've made several shop tools recently and want to finish them off proper-like. I've never used either of them before, so I plan on doing some experimenting. Will probably make a thread dedicated to it at some point.


----------



## DavidR8

I don’t know if this qualifies as a tool but nonetheless. This rounds out my Karl Moltrecht collection.


----------



## francist

Huh, I hadn’t heard of that title before. What’s your take on it so far, or have you had a chance to get into it yet?

-frank


----------



## DavidR8

It’s quite good. Copyright 2015 so a fairly recent publication. 
Some sections are a bit basic, there are excerpts from Home Shop Machinist, lots of tables of feeds and that sort of thing. All in all pretty good. It’s definitely more digestible than his other volumes.


----------



## 7milesup

JRaut said:


> I also recently got some Brownells Oxpho-Blue and some manganese phosphate Parkerizing concentrate. I've made several shop tools recently and want to finish them off proper-like. I've never used either of them before, so I plan on doing some experimenting. Will probably make a thread dedicated to it at some point.


I have a nickel anode coming for doing some nickel plating.  I have Oxpho-Blue and it seems about the same as standard issue bluing solution.  Maybe you will have better luck.
Check this plating video out. He has others too.


----------



## Superburban

Picked this up yesterday at a yard sale. I doubt I will ever use it, but is was darn cute.


----------



## Jim F

Went to the Estate where I have been picking stuff up.
Was sent home with some stuff I cannot use.
Keep an eye on the classifieds.
24 mm Counterbore is one item.
Dog plate for an 11" Logan/Powermatic, also.

Items for my shop.
Mitutoyo .200" per rev dial.
Hook scale is a Starrett 330, other scale is a Speivak
Boring bar is marked J.D.C. Tool Co. Bklyn NY
2 Craftsman snap gauges, 1 chinesium.
India Electronic edge finder.
Chinesium 1/2 Indexable mill cutter,
Chinese edge/center finder.

Lots more I haven't sorted through yet.


----------



## DiscoDan

On Sunday I went to the antique store in Baltimore where I bought my book horde over a year ago (the ones I had for sale in our classified section). This time I found a Starrett 9 to 10 in caliper box and another cool wood box that looks like its probably for a microscope. Both boxes came out of the local Kaydon factory, that used to be Koppers, and is moving operations. The microscope box has the Koppers name on the inside and the owner of the antique store gave me a Kopper's asset tag. Pretty cool. I love these old wood boxes. One of the cool parts for me is that a local guy that donated some items to Tuckahoe Steam & Gas had retired from Koppers!


----------



## Jim F

3" screwless vise and clamps showed up.


----------



## Jim F

Snap-on truck had a promo on...........


----------



## Jim F

2 Aloris AXA2 tool holders showed up today.
Only 1.5 weeks to get from Central VA to NCPA.
Still waiting on the chuck sent from CA before the LMS order was placed........


----------



## Jim F

Some more stuff.

Brand new, never opened steady rest spider.
Starrett calipers.
Chinesium diamond files
Not sure. Dark objects look like micro broaches.
Chuck keys, need to size to my chuck, hammers.
Full gallon of sawzit2000.


----------



## finsruskw

Picked this up off FB a week ago and just got it picked up today.
Heavy sucker at 44#.


----------



## DiscoDan

For $56 I couldn't help myself. The guy must have worked for Boeing.


----------



## erikmannie

12” 4J D1-6 chuck:




__





						3-857-1236P   - 4-Jaw(2Pc)IndFrgStl 12" D-6, 3.15"hole - Toolmex Industrial Solutions
					

3-857-1236P 4-Jaw(2Pc)IndFrgStl 12 D-6, 3.15hole, Toolmex Industrial Solutions




					www.toolmex.com
				




and extra chuck key:




__





						3-890-916P   - Wrench for 12in & 16in Independent Chuck - Toolmex Industrial Solutions
					

3-890-916P Wrench for 12in & 16in Independent Chuck, Toolmex Industrial Solutions




					www.toolmex.com


----------



## Brento

Buying myself a Derbyshire! Any tips or cool little projects with this little guy?


----------



## kuchervano

Got a few drill press vises on sale at horrible freight equivalent.  Plan on breaking them soon and DIYing a heavy duty version...
Also ordered a 4" rotary table from India.  Fingers crossed its repairable/rebuildable :/


----------



## Jim F

Looks like a nice little pen maker.


----------



## devils4ever

Two Durham 18" X 12" X 3" steel cases. The left one has adjustable sized compartments that will hold taps, reamers, and broaches. The right case is fixed and will hold end mills. There is a drawer cabinet that Durham sells that allow these to slide like a drawer. That will be my next purchase. These look to be very nicely made.


----------



## rbertalotto

I just ordered a 10" x 2"  200g CBN wheel for my WEN Tormak clone grinder from Wood Turners Wonders. Using a wet wheel is just too much bother and mess for me.
Now that you can buy a CBN wheel in 10" for $179, its a no brainer in my book.


----------



## 682bear

I brought a bucket of kitty litter home...







And a box...
	

		
			
		

		
	













A co-worker was cleaning out his garage over the weekend and decided all of this had to go... he brought it to me. We haven't settled on a price yet, he just said 'whatever you feel comfortable with'...

I'm gonna have to buy another Vidmar cabinet, I think...

-Bear


----------



## Jim F

Bought this little feller.
Need info. It is labeled 1" belt/8" disc.
Can't seem to find a place for a disc.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Jim F said:


> Bought this little feller.
> Need info. It is labeled 1" belt/8" disc.
> Can't seem to find a place for a disc.


Here you go.









						McMaster-Carr
					

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




					www.mcmaster.com


----------



## BGHansen

Jim F said:


> Bought this little feller.
> Need info. It is labeled 1" belt/8" disc.
> Can't seem to find a place for a disc.


I Google'd your model# and a few pictures showed up with an 8" disk direct drive off the motor.  Also had an aluminum table with a miter gauge slot.

Bruce


----------



## mmcmdl

DiscoDan said:


> On Sunday I went to the antique store in Baltimore where I bought my book horde over a year ago (the ones I had for sale in our classified section). This time I found a Starrett 9 to 10 in caliper box and another cool wood box that looks like its probably for a microscope. Both boxes came out of the local Kaydon factory, that used to be Koppers, and is moving operations. The microscope box has the Koppers name on the inside and the owner of the antique store gave me a Kopper's asset tag. Pretty cool. I love these old wood boxes. One of the cool parts for me is that a local guy that donated some items to Tuckahoe Steam & Gas had retired from Koppers!


Ahhhh........................Kaydon . I was down there 4 times for interviews 3 years back . I know they finally moved up to Hanover as planned . I was working down the Sunpapers at the time and told them I wasn't interested in driving farther into the city for  $5 pay cut . I know alot them retired but you have to wonder if they took the union contracts up to Pa . Doubt it .

My last trainee on nightshift came from Kaydon also . He quit a few months ago in here and he's now down Chesapeake Machine working for my buddy Joe . Stricktly CNC work , no manual .


----------



## Dhal22

682bear said:


> I brought a bucket of kitty litter home...
> 
> View attachment 350944
> 
> 
> View attachment 350945
> 
> 
> And a box...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 350946
> 
> 
> View attachment 350947
> 
> 
> View attachment 350948
> 
> 
> View attachment 350949
> 
> 
> A co-worker was cleaning out his garage over the weekend and decided all of this had to go... he brought it to me. We haven't settled on a price yet, he just said 'whatever you feel comfortable with'...
> 
> I'm gonna have to buy another Vidmar cabinet, I think...
> 
> -Bear




You get the 'you suck' award of the day!!


----------



## Jim F

BGHansen said:


> I Google'd your model# and a few pictures showed up with an 8" disk direct drive off the motor.  Also had an aluminum table with a miter gauge slot.
> 
> Bruce


Just looked, Missing the disc provisions.
I'm ok with that, needs to do HSS bits.


----------



## hman

682bear said:


> I brought a bucket of kitty litter home...


DURN!!!!!   I've had cats all my adult life, and none of them ever did this with kitty litter!  Major suckage, indeed!


----------



## DavidR8

Picked up a pair of 4x4x6 angle blocks.


----------



## Larry$

682bear said:


> I brought a bucket of kitty litter home...
> 
> View attachment 350944
> 
> 
> View attachment 350945
> 
> 
> And a box...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 350946
> 
> 
> View attachment 350947
> 
> 
> View attachment 350948
> 
> 
> View attachment 350949
> 
> 
> A co-worker was cleaning out his garage over the weekend and decided all of this had to go... he brought it to me. We haven't settled on a price yet, he just said 'whatever you feel comfortable with'...
> 
> I'm gonna have to buy another Vidmar cabinet, I think...
> 
> -Bear


Your cat is going to be disappointed at how rough it is. But I like it.


----------



## Jim F

well, the 3 jaw chuck showed up today, only 5 days late..........


----------



## mcostello

All I ever get is the privilege of buying kitty litter.


----------



## ACHiPo

Brento said:


> Buying myself a Derbyshire! Any tips or cool little projects with this little guy?


Here's an idea...








						A British 'genius' painstakingly made 23 pocket watches by hand in his lifetime — and one of those just sold for a whopping $1 million more than expected at auction in Geneva
					

Legendary watchmaker George Daniels handmade 23 pocket watches during his lifetime. One of those rare watches just sold at a Geneva auction.




					www.businessinsider.com


----------



## ACHiPo

682bear said:


> I brought a bucket of kitty litter home...
> 
> View attachment 350944
> 
> 
> View attachment 350945
> 
> 
> And a box...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 350946
> 
> 
> View attachment 350947
> 
> 
> View attachment 350948
> 
> 
> View attachment 350949
> 
> 
> A co-worker was cleaning out his garage over the weekend and decided all of this had to go... he brought it to me. We haven't settled on a price yet, he just said 'whatever you feel comfortable with'...
> 
> I'm gonna have to buy another Vidmar cabinet, I think...
> 
> -Bear


That cat did not have an iron deficiency!


----------



## Brento

ACHiPo said:


> Here's an idea...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A British 'genius' painstakingly made 23 pocket watches by hand in his lifetime — and one of those just sold for a whopping $1 million more than expected at auction in Geneva
> 
> 
> Legendary watchmaker George Daniels handmade 23 pocket watches during his lifetime. One of those rare watches just sold at a Geneva auction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.businessinsider.com


Id love to but i know nothing about watchs and would not know what to do. Also dont have the money to get into that type of a hobby.


----------



## ACHiPo

Brento said:


> Id love to but i know nothing about watchs and would not know what to do. Also dont have the money to get into that type of a hobby.


If you built a watch like that you'd have the money--Daniels sold it originally for something like $20k GBP and it sold at auction a few years later for $1M.

It took Daniels a lifetime to develop the skills, however, and he did have a decent investment in tools.  There's a good documentary on him you can Google.

Have fun with your Derbyshire!


----------



## Brento

ACHiPo said:


> If you built a watch like that you'd have the money--Daniels sold it originally for something like $20k GBP and it sold at auction a few years later for $1M.
> 
> It took Daniels a lifetime to develop the skills, however, and he did have a decent investment in tools.  There's a good documentary on him you can Google.
> 
> Have fun with your Derbyshire!


Thank you i have a few things planned for it since i dont have my bigger lathe going yet but its just small things to get acquainted with it. Would love some more projects though.


----------



## erikmannie

CXA tool post mini-crane









						Sky Hook Economy with Base 8500-03 - 61-171-008
					

Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.




					www.penntoolco.com
				




and chuck hook









						Sky Hook Chuck Hook Accessory - 8520 - 96-004-310
					

Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.




					www.penntoolco.com
				




I bought directly from Sky Hook Mfr. They are really nice people to deal with. One of those places where an informed human answers the phone when you call.

I cannot risk a back injury (who can?).


----------



## ACHiPo

Brento said:


> Thank you i have a few things planned for it since i dont have my bigger lathe going yet but its just small things to get acquainted with it. Would love some more projects though.


I have a Boley-Leinen but have not used it much.  The Derbyshire could good to build a little model engine if you aren’t interested in horology.


----------



## Brento

If i could get plans for an engine id try making one. Im looking at doing one if these models.


----------



## Jim F

Brento said:


> If i could get plans for an engine id try making one. Im looking at doing one if these models.


If you do one, you have to do the whole shop, with the line shaft kit.


----------



## Brento

Jim F said:


> If you do one, you have to do the whole shop, with the line shaft kit.


I plan on it. The kits aren't cheap though so its gonna take some time. I would love to do it though! Ill take donations to get start lol


----------



## DavidR8

My 5C collet chuck arrived today. 
It’s the same one as Clough42 bought and saw very respectable results from. 
I managed to achieve .00025” runout.


----------



## Papa Charlie

That is the one I am looking to purchase. Have read some good reports on them and have watched the video on YouTube. Will probably pull the trigger on it in a month or so.


----------



## DavidR8

Papa Charlie said:


> That is the one I am looking to purchase. Have read some good reports on them and have watched the video on YouTube. Will probably pull the trigger on it in a month or so.



I’m very impressed with the fit and finish. I hummed and hawed over the decision but I’m happy that I went for it.


----------



## Papa Charlie

@DavidR8 Did you buy a set of collets yet? I was came across a set at an auction not too long ago, all Hardinge, but the online bidders drove the price up to almost retail. 

Looking at the ones on Ebay but concerned about some of the reviews I have seen on YouTube. Mostly they appear as thought they didn't finish them, very sharp edges from the cuts, uneven cuts and some have indicate runout to be an issue. I am sure this may vary.


----------



## 682bear

Papa Charlie said:


> That is the one I am looking to purchase. Have read some good reports on them and have watched the video on YouTube. Will probably pull the trigger on it in a month or so.



I have one of those and I am also satisfied with the quality.

I also have a set of the chinese 5c collets... overall, they tend to run pretty true, but a few of them do have more runout than I would like. It hasn't really been an issue yet, though.

-Bear


----------



## ACHiPo

Brento said:


> If i could get plans for an engine id try making one. Im looking at doing one if these models.


You might try here:





						Home Model Engine Machinist Forum
					

Home model engine machinists & makers forum. Model engine making forums for engine plans, castings, CAD, CNC designs, lathe, Stirling, boilers & steam.




					www.homemodelenginemachinist.com
				




There are some free plans for “simple” models (I started one and had to start over 3 times so even simple can be challenging)


----------



## Braeden P

ACHiPo said:


> When I was scuba diving more actively it was fairly common to have lead weights coated with rubber (think plasti-dip).  Anything that encapsulates the lead would reduce the risk of breathing lead oxide dust, although if you're not gonna use it I'm sure you could find someone that would pay quite a bit for it as lead is getting harder to come by (at least out here).


over here we mostly use lead and some are un-coated  scuba diving is really fun!


----------



## DavidR8

Papa Charlie said:


> @DavidR8 Did you buy a set of collets yet? I was came across a set at an auction not too long ago, all Hardinge, but the online bidders drove the price up to almost retail.
> 
> Looking at the ones on Ebay but concerned about some of the reviews I have seen on YouTube. Mostly they appear as thought they didn't finish them, very sharp edges from the cuts, uneven cuts and some have indicate runout to be an issue. I am sure this may vary.



I think I saw the same set of collets. I was an early bidder but it got too expensive for me. 

I ended up buying a set from Accusize. Very nicely finished and they seem accurate so far as I have tried them. 
I think they were ~$125 CDN on Amazon.


----------



## ACHiPo

Jim F said:


> Bought this little feller.
> Need info. It is labeled 1" belt/8" disc.
> Can't seem to find a place for a disc.


That looks like a Delta belt sander clone.  I don't think it has a disc?


----------



## Larry$

Papa Charlie said:


> That is the one I am looking to purchase. Have read some good reports on them and have watched the video on YouTube. Will probably pull the trigger on it in a month or so.


Take a look @ the PM one. The one with the run true system. Mine is very nicely made and being able to put a gage pin in a collet and adjust to very good concentricity seems worth it. I got the PM set of 5C collets in 32nd steps and have used the gage pins to check many of them. Quite good especially for the price. The one catch with 5C is that 1/32" jumps are too much in the smaller diameters. I try to design to my collet set but have had to buy a few  in 1/64" steps. I use this chuck far more than I had expected. Like being able to hold threaded work w/o damage. Holding round work up to 1 1/8" W/O using a 4 Jaw and all the time it takes me to center with it.  When I've had multiple parts that needed to match, the use of the internal stop & the DRO makes it pretty easy, even for me.  Being able to get square and hex collets is also very handy. The keyway in the collets ends just pain square. Using a needle file to put a bit of an entry taper makes them easier to slide onto the key. Have fun.


----------



## DavidR8

Larry$ said:


> Take a look @ the PM one. The one with the run true system. Mine is very nicely made and being able to put a gage pin in a collet and adjust to very good concentricity seems worth it. I got the PM set of 5C collets in 32nd steps and have used the gage pins to check many of them. Quite good especially for the price. The one catch with 5C is that 1/32" jumps are too much in the smaller diameters. I try to design to my collet set but have had to buy a few  in 1/64" steps. I use this chuck far more than I had expected. Like being able to hold threaded work w/o damage. Holding round work up to 1 1/8" W/O using a 4 Jaw and all the time it takes me to center with it.  When I've had multiple parts that needed to match, the use of the internal stop & the DRO makes it pretty easy, even for me.  Being able to get square and hex collets is also very handy. The keyway in the collets ends just pain square. Using a needle file to put a bit of an entry taper makes them easier to slide onto the key. Have fun.


I don't see that on the PM site, only collet sets. Are they still selling it?


----------



## Larry$

DavidR8 said:


> I don't see that on the PM site, only collet sets. Are they still selling it?


I don't know if they are still selling it. I go mine over 4 years ago. I ordered it with my lathe. D1-4 spindle. Email PM if you'd like to find the price etc.


----------



## Jim F

EZE lap set showed up today.


----------



## finsruskw

David R8.....

Very interesting.
Looks like you have it installed on a south bend, and it would be cheaper than a new chuck would be, correct?

Newbie question here, what is the advantage of a system like that and how is the collet secured in the adaptor.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Larry$ said:


> Take a look @ the PM one. The one with the run true system. Mine is very nicely made and being able to put a gage pin in a collet and adjust to very good concentricity seems worth it. I got the PM set of 5C collets in 32nd steps and have used the gage pins to check many of them. Quite good especially for the price. The one catch with 5C is that 1/32" jumps are too much in the smaller diameters. I try to design to my collet set but have had to buy a few  in 1/64" steps. I use this chuck far more than I had expected. Like being able to hold threaded work w/o damage. Holding round work up to 1 1/8" W/O using a 4 Jaw and all the time it takes me to center with it.  When I've had multiple parts that needed to match, the use of the internal stop & the DRO makes it pretty easy, even for me.  Being able to get square and hex collets is also very handy. The keyway in the collets ends just pain square. Using a needle file to put a bit of an entry taper makes them easier to slide onto the key. Have fun.


I looked last time you mention PM, but they don't list them any more and I need a threaded backing plate. The seller on Ebay offers one with the backing plate I need.
Thanks anyway.


----------



## Papa Charlie

DavidR8 said:


> I think I saw the same set of collets. I was an early bidder but it got too expensive for me.
> 
> I ended up buying a set from Accusize. Very nicely finished and they seem accurate so far as I have tried them.
> I think they were ~$125 CDN on Amazon.


I looked, I don't see them listed by Accusize, saw some listed by Shars, 29pc for $135.


----------



## DavidR8

Papa Charlie said:


> I looked, I don't see them listed by Accusize, saw some listed by Shars, 29pc for $135.





			Amazon.ca


----------



## Papa Charlie

DavidR8 said:


> Amazon.ca


Looks like they are available in Canada only.


----------



## Ianagos

Well I just got it and I already got it stuck about 3 times but I got this bad boy to move the item I posted before.

In the money I’ve spent on rentals I’ve almost paid for this lift by now so I figured it was time to finally get one.







She looks small but she’s a heavy girl. A bit over 20klbs and can pick up about 15k


----------



## Larry$

finsruskw said:


> David R8.....
> 
> Very interesting.
> Looks like you have it installed on a south bend, and it would be cheaper than a new chuck would be, correct?
> 
> Newbie question here, what is the advantage of a system like that and how is the collet secured in the adaptor.


It is a chuck! They range in price sort of like 3 jaw chucks, but the collets add more cost. The advantages: collets generally run truer than a 3 jaw chuck, You can take the work out and put it back or turn it around W/O losing as much concentricity as a 3 Jaw and taking a lot less time  (unless you are Adam B) than a 4 Jaw. You can directly grip threads. By using an internal stop you can repeat length references using either your DRO or dials. There are no jaws spinning around to hit your hands. You can get square and hex collets. They don't damage softer things like brass, aluminum, most plastics. Especially nice for small work because you can hold a pretty short part (into the collet) and work really close to the face of the collet. Disadvantages: limited to 1 1/8" unless you use adapters of some sort. They make expanding collets so you can hold on the inside of work (rings.) 5C collets have limited holding ranges so you need quite a lot of them to cover everything from 1/16" or less to 1 1/8".  "Emergency" collets are sold so you can machine them to special sizes. 

There are multiple things that use collets besides the chuck: spin indexer, tool & cutter grinder are the things I have that use 5C. There are other collet systems available also. ER in assorted sizes, Deckel etc.    Others can cover what I've missed.


----------



## finsruskw

Thanks David!
I appreciate the explanation.


----------



## G-ManBart

There are a bunch of things I need more, but I just couldn't pass this up.  24 x 24 x 8" Starrett grade A surface plate on a cart with a current calibration and not a mark on it anywhere.  It was at a local auction just 25 minutes away and the majority of the stuff was less than five years old.  I've seen surface plates locally, but more often than not they're too big or priced ridiculously....this was $300, so not a steal, but seemed fair.


----------



## extropic

G-ManBart said:


> There are a bunch of things I need more, but I just couldn't pass this up.  24 x 24 x 8" Starrett grade A surface plate on a cart with a current calibration and not a mark on it anywhere.  It was at a local auction just 25 minutes away and the majority of the stuff was less than five years old.  I've seen surface plates locally, but more often than not they're too big or priced ridiculously....this was $300, so not a steal, but seemed fair.



Good purchase. It's even labeled "SURFACE PLATE" so you'll not forget what it is. LOL


----------



## G-ManBart

extropic said:


> Good purchase. It's even labeled "SURFACE PLATE" so you'll not forget what it is. LOL


The label had me laughing as well!


----------



## Inferno

G-ManBart said:


> There are a bunch of things I need more, but I just couldn't pass this up.  24 x 24 x 8" Starrett grade A surface plate on a cart with a current calibration and not a mark on it anywhere.  It was at a local auction just 25 minutes away and the majority of the stuff was less than five years old.  I've seen surface plates locally, but more often than not they're too big or priced ridiculously....this was $300, so not a steal, but seemed fair.


Showing my ignorance, what's a surface plate good for?
I've had a typesetting stone so I know they had uses in the past.


----------



## extropic

Inferno said:


> Showing my ignorance, what's a surface plate good for?
> I've had a typesetting stone so I know they had uses in the past.



Surface Plate wiki


----------



## Inferno

extropic said:


> Surface Plate wiki


Yes, I understand their "function" but what do hobby machinists use them for that a decent marble slab can't be used?


----------



## Inferno

I got these.

I drill a lot of 5mm holes and these have worked well for me. I figured it was time to have more than one on hand.


----------



## Jim F

Inferno said:


> Yes, I understand their "function" but what do hobby machinists use them for that a decent marble slab can't be used?


For a home hobby shop marble works fine.


----------



## extropic

Inferno said:


> Yes, I understand their "function" but what do hobby machinists use them for that a decent marble slab can't be used?



I consider myself a hobby machinist and I use surface plates for exactly what is described in the wiki.
Real surface plates are not made of marble because it is a relatively soft stone and will ware much faster than granite or cast iron.

Is the flatness of the "marble slab" you refer to certified per ASME B89.3.7-2013?
If some marble slab meets someone's requirements for precision and durability, so be it.


----------



## Inferno

extropic said:


> I consider myself a hobby machinist and I use surface plates for exactly what is described in the wiki.
> Real surface plates are not made of marble because it is a relatively soft stone and will ware much faster than granite or cast iron.
> 
> Is the flatness of the "marble slab" you refer to certified per ASME B89.3.7-2013?
> If some marble slab meets someone's requirements for precision and durability, so be it.


I don't make iso 9000 items so, no, my marble slab is not certified ASME B89.3.7.2013


----------



## extropic

Inferno said:


> I don't make iso 9000 items so, no, my marble slab is not certified ASME B89.3.7.2013



I apologize. My question regarding flatness certification was intended to be rhetorical.
I should have included some emojis.


----------



## mmcmdl

Not a new purchase , but found down in the other house . Couple of insert tools and indicators . Add em' to the pile !


----------



## Buffalo21

I ordered some better ER 20 And ER 32 fractional collets, but not from Toolots!!


----------



## DavidR8

mmcmdl said:


> Not a new purchase , but found down in the other house . Couple of insert tools and indicators . Add em' to the pile !



What size shank are those TCMT holders Dave?


----------



## Jim F

Just ordered a glass platen for the little feller.


----------



## mmcmdl

DavidR8 said:


> What size shank are those TCMT holders Dave?


Not sure Dave . I just save them but most likely they'll never see use here . Boring bars or turning holders ?


----------



## DavidR8

mmcmdl said:


> Not sure Dave . I just save them but most likely they'll never see use here . Boring bars or turning holders ?



1/2” left and right turning holders would be ideal.


----------



## mmcmdl

Well yeah , I have a few . Being I took the last 2 nights off having a toof issue I figured I could spend some time down the other place . I think I have double and triples of everything . I'm in between the Raven's game and the basement , but these are not advertized at the minute . Tell me what you need or want on a pm if you need something . I have a dump run planned for this Monday . Lots up scrap going out . I'm going to load up a box of small stock for our resident expert ( Cab ) and get it down his way . The junk is always here , just a matter of time to get to it .


----------



## G-ManBart

Inferno said:


> Yes, I understand their "function" but what do hobby machinists use them for that a decent marble slab can't be used?



I doubt it makes any difference for most home shops, but I wouldn't know where to find a marble slab, and this was the real deal, close by, in a size I like, and already had the cart so it made for an easy choice.

There are times, and I'm not saying this necessarily is one, that an inexperienced person (me) will be better off with something that's more precise because I'm not experienced enough to account for subtle things the way a pro can.  It's sort of like the saying that a good machinist can make better parts with a worn machine than an inexperienced person can with a perfect machine.  At the very least in this case I know I can't blame the surface if I get bad numbers


----------



## Inferno

G-ManBart said:


> I doubt it makes any difference for most home shops, but I wouldn't know where to find a marble slab, and this was the real deal, close by, in a size I like, and already had the cart so it made for an easy choice.
> 
> There are times, and I'm not saying this necessarily is one, that an inexperienced person (me) will be better off with something that's more precise because I'm not experienced enough to account for subtle things the way a pro can.  It's sort of like the saying that a good machinist can make better parts with a worn machine than an inexperienced person can with a perfect machine.  At the very least in this case I know I can't blame the surface if I get bad numbers


I'm not knocking your purchase. I almost bought one, myself, a few months ago. Then I thought, "why do I need it" and I couldn't think of a reason.
I have WAY too much stuff just for the cool factor (anyone need a hole gauge set?). 
I have a one car garage that hasn't had a car in it in the 14 years I've lived here. I used to keep my motorcycle (and a spare) in the garage but now, with my lathe, kiln, bolt bin organizers, tool boxes, engines, cherry picker, CNC Machine build, etc, I just couldn't see buying one. My spare bedrooms aren't exactly empty either. 

As for where to get a marble slab, any marble/granite countertop place will have remnants. I just take the one I have and put it on top of the chest freezer, AKA my workbench, and lean it up against the freezer when I'm not using it. 

A side note, most of my "extra" stuff was supposed to be present at the Annual Portland Swap Meet last April but good ol Covid stopped that from happening.


----------



## Larry$

G-ManBart said:


> There are a bunch of things I need more, but I just couldn't pass this up.  24 x 24 x 8" Starrett grade A surface plate on a cart with a current calibration and not a mark on it anywhere.  It was at a local auction just 25 minutes away and the majority of the stuff was less than five years old.  I've seen surface plates locally, but more often than not they're too big or priced ridiculously....this was $300, so not a steal, but seemed fair.


I'd count that as a steal! Need a crane to lift it?


----------



## oregontripper

Saw a lathe cross slide DRO install video with someone using a tap wrench with the T-handle removed driving it with a 3/8" extension and ratchet. HAD to have one.  Also, conduit, boxes, switches, receptacles, and plugs. Oh, some grease, oil, and an oil can too.


----------



## GunsOfNavarone

I bought one of these vice stops. Great price, wasn't expecting much (for my tormach, so small would be good) It's actually very nice but heavy and pretty massive! If you have a big mill...this thing is for you! I don't even really have a purpose now...maybe a cool paperweight?
Work Stop


----------



## G-ManBart

Larry$ said:


> I'd count that as a steal! Need a crane to lift it?


Haha....yes!  I checked the website and it's listed as 300lbs or maybe 330lbs....can't recall.  

I brought my cheapie HF 2-ton cherry picker with me.  When I backed my truck into the building the guy coordinating removals had sort of an odd look on his face, but chuckled when I opened up the tailgate and he saw the crane folded up in the back (have a cap on the truck).  I said "you have many people show up with a crane?" and he said "nope, that's a first for me"...lol.  

I set up the crane and then used two lifting straps to make a basket under the plate....lifted it off the cart and set it down in the bed on a moving blanket and covered it with the rest of the blanket.  The guy was like "wow, that was pretty painless!"....worked perfectly.

I fool around with blacksmithing and restoring old bench vises, and now I won't lift anything by hand if it's heavier than about 100 pounds...not worth it!


----------



## Radials

An opportunity buy came my way over a year ago to get this MSC branded 1988 6x12 surface grinder and I finally picked it up. Hasn't been used much in the 20 years the PO had it so hoping there's a decent enough machine under the grime. Mag chuck is small but a suburban tool brand and alone probably worth what I paid for the whole machine. Came with a stand that will need to be replaced, but good enough until the grinder gets restored. Looks like 2021 is starting out with another project...


----------



## DavidR8

This arrived today.


----------



## DLF

Better quality argon regulator for my TIG welder







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DLF

GunsOfNavarone said:


> I bought one of these vice stops. Great price, wasn't expecting much (for my tormach, so small would be good) It's actually very nice but heavy and pretty massive! If you have a big mill...this thing is for you! I don't even really have a purpose now...maybe a cool paperweight?
> Work Stop
> View attachment 351502



I don’t know about yours but I also ordered one last year and quality wise it is just garbage. But it works and since I do not have anything better I use it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WobblyHand

3" screw less vise from Little Machine Shop.  Was a blem, but it looks pretty nice to me.  Couple of _tiny_ dings on it if I look close.  Did my first mod on it by replacing the screw for a slightly longer one.  Seems to adjust fairly easily.  Hope to put it to good use soon.  First project is to make some hold downs for it!  I didn't buy the hold downs, because I wanted to make them.


What are the M6 tapped holes for?  You can see one of them on the fixed jaw.  There's another on the opposite face.  To clamp a vise stop?


----------



## Jim F

WobblyHand said:


> 3" screw less vise from Little Machine Shop.  Was a blem, but it looks pretty nice to me.  Couple of _tiny_ dings on it if I look close.  Did my first mod on it by replacing the screw for a slightly longer one.  Seems to adjust fairly easily.  Hope to put it to good use soon.  First project is to make some hold downs for it!  I didn't buy the hold downs, because I wanted to make them.
> View attachment 351651
> 
> What are the M6 tapped holes for?  You can see one of them on the fixed jaw.  There's another on the opposite face.  To clamp a vise stop?


I got the same vise, those holes are for a vise stop.


----------



## hman

WobblyHand said:


> What are the M6 tapped holes for?  You can see one of them on the fixed jaw.  There's another on the opposite face.  To clamp a vise stop?


That's what I use 'em for.  The ones on my vise are threaded 5/16".


----------



## WobblyHand

I had that in my shopping cart forever.  Just never pulled the trigger.  When I saw you got one, I though it was time.  Really wanted to get it at the discounted price.  Kind of got a little crazy, bought a small set of squares, and an ER32 chuck for my lathe.  Still waiting on the chuck.  Now I need ER32 collets...  And down the rabbit hole I go...


----------



## Papa Charlie

This arrived today.


DavidR8 said:


>




How does this differ from the Machinists Handbook?


----------



## DavidR8

Papa Charlie said:


> This arrived today.
> 
> 
> 
> How does this differ from the Machinists Handbook?


It's very different. It focuses more on machines, how they are used and not on specifications etc.


----------



## brino

Last week I upped my measuring game with these:







The calipers feel so smooth compared to my "everyday" Fowler's.

The Fowler's have been a work-horse for me for many years, but lately are feeling a little gritty, even after a good cleaning....

-brino


----------



## Larry$

DavidR8 said:


> It's very different. It focuses more on machines, how they are used and not on specifications etc.


The Machinist Handbook is like an encyclopedia of all things you might need to know about machining. For the home shop user you don't need a current edition. Buy used. The index is good. I bought the 29th? edition serval years ago when it was on sale 20% off.  If you buy one be sure to get the "large print" edition. The print in it is plenty small enough. It is a huge book, 3,000? pages. The paper is very thin and not exactly high quality. It has been worth having. Great shop math section, geometry, trig, formulas. Materials, speeds & feeds, fasteners, heat treat, threads, casting, on & on....


----------



## mmcmdl

brino said:


> Last week I upped my measuring game with these:


Can't beat 'em brino . Now all's you're missing is a pair of their .00005 Millimess drop indicators .


----------



## DLF

Inferno said:


> Yes, I understand their "function" but what do hobby machinists use them for that a decent marble slab can't be used?



The marble plate found at stone shops is simply not flat enough.

I got from a friend a polished granite kitchen countertop cutout thinking it would be good enough in the home shop.

Indicated it and threw it away immediately. It was just that bad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## extropic

@brino 

I'm curious about that indicator. I know Mahr is a long standing and respected name in metrology.
I expected to see a "Made in Germany" on the dial face which leads to my question. Are you convinced that the indicator is built in Germany (or Switzerland) or do you suspect "global sources"?


----------



## mmcmdl

Bulgaria last time I checked .



extropic said:


> I'm curious about that indicator. I know Mahr is a long standing and respected name in metrology.
> I expected to see a "Made in Germany" on the dial face which leads to my question. Are you convinced that the indicator is built in Germany (or Switzerland) or do you suspect "global sources"?


----------



## brino

mmcmdl said:


> Now all's you're missing is a pair of their .00005 Millimess drop indicators .



You must have a bucket of those for sale, right?   
-brino


----------



## brino

extropic said:


> I'm curious about that indicator. I know Mahr is a long standing and respected name in metrology.
> I expected to see a "Made in Germany" on the dial face which leads to my question. Are you convinced that the indicator is built in Germany (or Switzerland) or do you suspect "global sources"?



Absolutely valid question/concern in today's market!

The DTI says it was made in Germany.........although it is just a sticker.....




The calipers, are a different story:



However they were only CAD $95 (USD $75) and feel fantastic in use!
Also, they test very well against my gauge blocks.

-brino


----------



## hotrats

Some flea mkt finds from today. Enco mag base for indicator & wood box, Enco jacks, in boxes. machinist made 123 blocks, Helios radius gauge set, a very heavy duty C clamp, and a chain wrench. Unlike the last chain wrench I bought, this one made it back home with me. The last one tore thru the bag and fell out on the way back to the car, lol. Edit* forgot about the endmills, $10. for 10. most that I chose were double end.


----------



## Ianagos

brino said:


> Last week I upped my measuring game with these:
> 
> View attachment 351654
> 
> 
> View attachment 351655
> 
> 
> The calipers feel so smooth compared to my "everyday" Fowler's.
> 
> The Fowler's have been a work-horse for me for many years, but lately are feeling a little gritty, even after a good cleaning....
> 
> -brino



So far my favorite indicators are mahr. Not to mention I’ve gotten many new old stock ones for great prices aswell as some brand new ones. So far all I’ve received except for the brand new one has had a sticker that said made in Germany. My millimess I think actually has made in Germany in it somewhere. And my mahr federal digital milionths indicator I think was made in China but it’s honestly more accurate than I could test.

I think those tools will serve you amazingly well. 

If I had to choose any common indicator it would be a mahr. In my experience the best cost friendly indicators. In my opinion better than my b&s besttest and I definitely like it better than my interapid but in those indicators defense I purchase them used while I purchased the mahr indicators new.


----------



## mmcmdl

brino said:


> You must have a bucket of those for sale, right?



Well , no , not a bucket full . Only a pair , complete with the snap gages !


----------



## erikmannie

On Friday, I called Sky Hook Mfr. & ordered a Sky Hook with a CXA base. I ordered the economy model (i.e. friction brake). I also ordered a Chuck Hook. They have a 3 week lead time.

This morning I called and asked to upgrade to a clutch brake (turn clockwise for up, turn counterclockwise for down). I also told them that I want a roller chain rather than a cable.

I wrote in another post that I like companies like this where you can just call up and talk to an informed human.





__





						Premium Tool Post Mount Sky Hooks
					

As part of the Premium Sky Hook product line, these models incorporate our popular LoadLock clutch brake mechanism.  The clutch brake allows for easy-to-operate, secure lifting of up to 500 lbs.



					www.skyhookmfr.com
				












						Sky Hook Chuck Hook Accessory - 8520 - 96-004-310
					

Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.




					www.penntoolco.com


----------



## erikmannie

Smooth files:





__





						Nicholson 03632 Flat Smooth Cut 8 Inch | FisherTools.com
					

Easy and quick ordering online. Flat Smooth Cut 8 Inch. Quality tools and name brands at Fisher Tools. We also stock Metalworking Tools and Files and our operators are standing by.



					www.fishertools.com
				




and









						Nicholson 10 in. Smooth Cut Flat File 03732N - The Home Depot
					

The Crescent Nicholson flat double/single-cut bastard files with an American pattern are ideal for machinists, machinery builders, ship and engine builders. The files can be used effectively by repairmen



					www.homedepot.com


----------



## Papa Charlie

erikmannie said:


> On Friday, I called Sky Hook Mfr. & ordered a Sky Hook with a CXA base. I ordered the economy model (i.e. friction brake). I also ordered a Chuck Hook. They have a 3 week lead time.
> 
> This morning I called and asked to upgrade to a clutch brake (turn clockwise for up, turn counterclockwise for down). I also told them that I want a roller chain rather than a cable.
> 
> I wrote in another post that I like companies like this where you can just call up and talk to an informed human.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Premium Tool Post Mount Sky Hooks
> 
> 
> As part of the Premium Sky Hook product line, these models incorporate our popular LoadLock clutch brake mechanism.  The clutch brake allows for easy-to-operate, secure lifting of up to 500 lbs.
> 
> 
> 
> www.skyhookmfr.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sky Hook Chuck Hook Accessory - 8520 - 96-004-310
> 
> 
> Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.penntoolco.com



I really like these. Saw them for the first time on Abom79. They are not cheap but very useful.


----------



## finsruskw

*Showed up in the mail this morning.
All are Starrett but #D*


----------



## GunsOfNavarone

DLF said:


> I don’t know about yours but I also ordered one last year and quality wise it is just garbage. But it works and since I do not have anything better I use it
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's solid/massive, holds position far more than I would ever need...it's even pretty! I really have no complaint other than it's too big for my Tormach. It's a 1/2" bolt that connects to the t-nut, my t-slots aren't barely much bigger than that!


----------



## matthewsx

I said I didn't have room but for $75 I guess I can find it....
















John


----------



## DavidR8

matthewsx said:


> I said I didn't have room but for $75 I guess I can find it....
> 
> View attachment 351812
> 
> 
> View attachment 351813
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 351814
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 351815
> 
> 
> 
> John


Hey I had that same awful stand on mine! 
Well scored


----------



## 682bear

DavidR8 said:


> Hey I had that same awful stand on mine!
> Well scored



I've been planning for several years to build a decent stand for mine, but just haven't done it...

That sheet metal is flimsy...

-Bear


----------



## Aaron_W

matthewsx said:


> I said I didn't have room but for $75 I guess I can find it....
> 
> View attachment 351812
> 
> 
> View attachment 351813
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 351814
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 351815
> 
> 
> 
> John



I have the Harbor Freight one but probably basically the same. It seems like all of us with small shops resist getting one, but these little band saws are super handy. I'd never want to be without a small bandsaw or power hacksaw again.


----------



## devils4ever

Brown & Sharpe Angle Block Set.


----------



## devils4ever

I bought the matching Dunham Sliding Drawer Case to go with my Steel Storage Drawers (see post #4933). 

This was my first purchase from Zoro which had this for _much _lower cost than anywhere else. I understand that Zoro is part of Grainger?


----------



## matthewsx

Aaron_W said:


> I have the Harbor Freight one but probably basically the same. It seems like all of us with small shops resist getting one, but these little band saws are super handy. I'd never want to be without a small bandsaw or power hacksaw again.


I already have the cold saw but I did a project this past weekend where I really missed my vertical bandsaw. I'll be making Mikey's table for it soon....

John


----------



## macardoso

Preparing to do some more parts on my steam engine and needed a slitting saw arbor. All my tooling is Tormach TTS so I spent a bit extra to get their 1" arbor.




To get to free shipping, I bought 3 setscrew holders as well. I only have ER20 chucks so far (24 of them) so I want to try these out for endmills and save the ER chucks for drills and other non-fractional shank tools. At $21 each with no added cost of a collet, they are the cheapest tool holding option for TTS. They also have the least extension from the nose of the spindle which is important in my tiny mill.



I also bought a couple 5-40 taps as the steam engine plans call them out (weird!, didn't even know these existed). I also crashed my TTS edge finder so I got a 3/4" shank Shars brand electronic ball edgefinder in case I can't to a satisfactory repair of the Tormach one. They do not sell them anymore. I might be able to turn a TTS collar to press onto the edgefinder.


----------



## matthewsx

682bear said:


> I've been planning for several years to build a decent stand for mine, but just haven't done it...
> 
> That sheet metal is flimsy...
> 
> -Bear


Yeah, more substantial would be good but probably take up more room. I'll live with it for now since there are a bunch of other improvements I'd rather work on first.

John


----------



## Steve-F

I picked up a Emco Compact 8 lathe bed and carriage for $50. I plan on resurrecting it back to it's former glory,....my way


----------



## vtcnc

Almost lost it (the saw, and almost lost my mind) today. I was coming up my street and the FedEx truck was parked in the road right in front of my house. Another vehicle was parked in the other lane blocking any chance I had to get in the driveway. After about 1 minute, I set the timer...4 more minutes pass. In the meantime, my eBay notification comes through that my package was delivered by FedEx!

Hmm. He must have delivered it and Chatty Charlie is keeping him from moving along. Five minutes is a long time when you are watching some guy just block the road for his own pleasure.

Anyway, the blockage clears. I pull into my driveway. No package. I jump back in the car and chase the driver down. He was a little surprised to see me. After asking him where he delivered my saw, we figured out he delivered to 43 Upper Welden, not 43 Upper Newton. He said he would go get it. I beat him to it.

This saw is awesome. I have a big project coming up that will require hundreds of cuts in 2x2x3/16 steel tubing. I don’t have a lot of space or money to drop $1000 or more on a decent bandsaw that will cut square. I considered the abrasive disc route but that’s too slow and no guarantee for square cuts.

To say this thing cuts through butter, cleanly and squarely is not only accurate but a bit of an understatement. Very few burrs, dead straight and square AND an uncanny similarity to cutting wood. It is very strange. 

I did have one piece of 1x1x 1/8 angle that kicked and got thrown into the wall. I’m going to need to study up a little more on use.

Also. LOUD. Ear protection is mandatory










Very happy with this saw.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Aukai

I have the Jancy Slugger version, read up on small diameter stuff, you may have to space it up.


----------



## Aaron_W

Actually was a Christmas present, but finally getting around to finding a spot for it. 

6 liter ultrasonic cleaner, it was actually a little bit of a surprise. 

A couple months ago I was looking at the cheapo Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaners, but then doing some research and watching some use videos on youtube I was finding that a little bigger than the 2.5 liter size that HF sells sounded desirable. A few specifically linked to this one and gave it positive reviews, so I put it on my wish list and promptly forgot about it. 

My wife actually uses the Amazon wish list and got it for me for Christmas. Now I have to find something that needs deep cleaning.


----------



## KevinM

vtcnc said:


> vtcnc, what type of blade did you use for those cuts?


----------



## vtcnc

It is a carbide tipped blade that comes with the saw. 66 tooth I think. Spins at 1450 rpm.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## vtcnc

Aukai said:


> I have the Jancy Slugger version, read up on small diameter stuff, you may have to space it up.



Uncle! Do you have a link or source about safely cutting smaller stuff?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rwm

I have a similar saw(Dewalt). It is weird cutting steel with a coarse tooth saw. But remarkably effective. Do not let your work come loose, you may chip a tooth.
Robert


----------



## Papa Charlie

vtcnc said:


> Almost lost it (the saw, and almost lost my mind) today. I was coming up my street and the FedEx truck was parked in the road right in front of my house. Another vehicle was parked in the other lane blocking any chance I had to get in the driveway. After about 1 minute, I set the timer...4 more minutes pass. In the meantime, my eBay notification comes through that my package was delivered by FedEx!
> 
> Hmm. He must have delivered it and Chatty Charlie is keeping him from moving along. Five minutes is a long time when you are watching some guy just block the road for his own pleasure.
> 
> Anyway, the blockage clears. I pull into my driveway. No package. I jump back in the car and chase the driver down. He was a little surprised to see me. After asking him where he delivered my saw, we figured out he delivered to 43 Upper Welden, not 43 Upper Newton. He said he would go get it. I beat him to it.
> 
> This saw is awesome. I have a big project coming up that will require hundreds of cuts in 2x2x3/16 steel tubing. I don’t have a lot of space or money to drop $1000 or more on a decent bandsaw that will cut square. I considered the abrasive disc route but that’s too slow and no guarantee for square cuts.
> 
> To say this thing cuts through butter, cleanly and squarely is not only accurate but a bit of an understatement. Very few burrs, dead straight and square AND an uncanny similarity to cutting wood. It is very strange.
> 
> I did have one piece of 1x1x 1/8 angle that kicked and got thrown into the wall. I’m going to need to study up a little more on use.
> 
> Also. LOUD. Ear protection is mandatory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very happy with this saw.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That issue of angle iron being  kicked out is not uncommon. Use a  piece of square  tubing  or bar to provide a solid clamping  surface.  I have only  had this  experience with  angle as you don't  get sufficient clamping  surface.


----------



## Aukai

This did not discuss spacing it up, but slower down feed will help kickback. The narrowest tallest presentation to the blade IIRC.
You may need to back it up a bit more....


----------



## brino

rwm said:


> Do not let your work come loose, you may chip a tooth.



.....and your saw blade could lose one too!


----------



## Aukai

For the angle iron that would be the 90* up.


----------



## rwm

That's how I cut angle. With the corner up.
Robert


----------



## vtcnc

Aukai said:


> For the angle iron that would be the 90* up.


So the catch happened on a 45 degree cut on the angle. You can't have the square corner up in that situation. And it caught when the 90 was down and towards me. So when the piece started to drop, it must have pinched just enough for it to catch and throw the drop.

And I figured out quickly that I needed a 1" rod or square to use in the vise to securely grab the angle in these scenarios. So it wasn't because it was moving.


----------



## Aukai

My friend cuts with it like he's cutting wood, and I've seen him get kickbacks. I do a slow feed, and have not had any issues.


----------



## ahazi

vtcnc said:


> Almost lost it (the saw, and almost lost my mind) today. I was coming up my street and the FedEx truck was parked in the road right in front of my house. Another vehicle was parked in the other lane blocking any chance I had to get in the driveway. After about 1 minute, I set the timer...4 more minutes pass. In the meantime, my eBay notification comes through that my package was delivered by FedEx!
> 
> Hmm. He must have delivered it and Chatty Charlie is keeping him from moving along. Five minutes is a long time when you are watching some guy just block the road for his own pleasure.
> 
> Anyway, the blockage clears. I pull into my driveway. No package. I jump back in the car and chase the driver down. He was a little surprised to see me. After asking him where he delivered my saw, we figured out he delivered to 43 Upper Welden, not 43 Upper Newton. He said he would go get it. I beat him to it.
> 
> This saw is awesome. I have a big project coming up that will require hundreds of cuts in 2x2x3/16 steel tubing. I don’t have a lot of space or money to drop $1000 or more on a decent bandsaw that will cut square. I considered the abrasive disc route but that’s too slow and no guarantee for square cuts.
> 
> To say this thing cuts through butter, cleanly and squarely is not only accurate but a bit of an understatement. Very few burrs, dead straight and square AND an uncanny similarity to cutting wood. It is very strange.
> 
> I did have one piece of 1x1x 1/8 angle that kicked and got thrown into the wall. I’m going to need to study up a little more on use.
> 
> Also. LOUD. Ear protection is mandatory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very happy with this saw.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This is a great saw. I have the version from Fein which looks very similar with solid cast iron base and vise with a nice drawer for chip collection.

Your experience with the kicked piece is the *down side of this saw*, it can break teeth(s) on the blade and send pieces flying..., make sure everything you cut is super tightly held down in the vise. Put a counter shim in the vise if the piece is not 100% held tightly by the vise. Also control the force/speed that you apply to go into the material. It is noisy and chips fly all over but it is fast and accurate...

After some heavy usage I replaced the original blade with this Diablo blade that also does an amazing job cutting aluminium solids (6061 and 7075) with milling like quality, just go slow and put some WD40 as a lubricant.

I needed a more capable saw and I am expecting delivery of a Jet 7x10-1/2 miter bandsaw later this week. I am busy making space in the shop...

Ariel


----------



## ACHiPo

This cute little Vertex 6" rotary table showed up.  Seems like a pretty well-made piece of equipment.  It arrived missing one of the locking levers.  Hopefully Eisen will just send me one.


----------



## Peyton Price 17

My neighbors freind is giving me a hardinge dv-59 for free because I’m 12 and thinks that it is cool that we like machines. And I will get a big you suck


----------



## Papa Charlie

@Peyton Price 17 What ever the reason, congratulations. I wish I had started my shop when I was your age. But I was never in one place long enough being a transplant many times starting when I graduated the 1st grade and moved from San Fernando, CA to Tillamook, OR, then after high school too many times.

While I believe you earn what you get, at least what I have gathered from your posts. You are a lucky young man to be born and grow up in one area. I still have my friends from Tillamook, but it isn't the same. But I am fortunate to have them.


----------



## erikmannie

Today I got paid for a welding job that I have been working on for a long time.

I bought 20 Pferd 8”-14” file handles, 8 of those sized various Pferd files (mill, square, triangular, round, half-round), railroad chalk, 1 gallon Mobil Vactra #2, 10 A6 carbide triangular inserts, & 10 A6 carbide parting inserts.











						Pferd 8" Mill File - Tapered, Smooth Cut 19006 | Zoro
					

Order Pferd 8" Mill File - Tapered,  Smooth Cut, 19006 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.




					www.zoro.com
				








						Carbide Insert TNMS-332-A6
					






					www.aloris.com
				







__





						GT Style Aloris Wedge-Grip Carbide Cut-Off Insert GTN-4P-A6
					






					www.aloris.com


----------



## rwm

Not familiar but I need some files! Is Pferd a quality brand? How to those handles attach? They look pretty cool.
Robert


----------



## wlburton

ACHiPo said:


> This cute little Vertex 6" rotary table showed up.  Seems like a pretty well-made piece of equipment.  It arrived missing one of the locking levers.  Hopefully Eisen will just send me one.
> View attachment 352345
> 
> View attachment 352347


I bought the same one from the same people which came with a ding in one of the dials which appeared to have happened in transit.  They had me send them a picture of the damage and sent me a replacement right away.


----------



## ACHiPo

wlburton said:


> I bought the same one from the same people which came with a ding in one of the dials which appeared to have happened in transit.  They had me send them a picture of the damage and sent me a replacement right away.


The replacement lever is en route.  Pretty impressive service (although it would be more impressive if they didn't have to send a part that should be there--doesn't give me much confidence in the stamped tolerance QC measurements!)


----------



## devils4ever

Drill Doctor 750X.


----------



## Papa Charlie

devils4ever said:


> Drill Doctor 750X.
> 
> View attachment 352524



I have thought about buying one of these. Would be very interested in you opinion after you have had a chance to use it.


----------



## GoceKU

Today just before the snow i stopped by the local tool/ flea market. First thing i found and bought was this 12V old old impact driver 7$. Then i found and bought this china piston ring compressor 6$. Last thing i found and bought was this silicone sealant that is heat resistant 3$. Since the pandemic started this place is slim pickings for machines tools.


----------



## f350ca

I finally get to post something, seams I don't buy much anymore.
Was fed up with Dremel's, they don't last, and seam to be out of balance. The bearings in mine were shot so thought I'd spring for a Proxon.
Came today, on low speed its almost silent and full out not a hint of vibration. Was surprised, they're still made in Germany




I've never seen mention of anyone using collets in an indexing head. Thought I'd give it a try. MT3 from Amazon, fresh from China, haven't check the runout yet but they look good.




Greg


----------



## rwm

MT3 collet? What is the max OD?
R


----------



## Jim F

rwm said:


> MT3 collet? What is the max OD?
> R


MT3 collets go to 3/4 usually.


----------



## f350ca

Ya 3/4 inch, the set goes down to 1/8th. Hope they work out holding mandrels when cutting gears, or the blank for some small ones I need to cut.
I have a Vertex head, think its a copy of a Brown and Sharpe, they had their own collets apparently, so they must be used, just never have seen reference to stock being held in a collet.

Greg


----------



## slodat

Papa Charlie said:


> That issue of angle iron being  kicked out is not uncommon. Use a  piece of square  tubing  or bar to provide a solid clamping  surface.  I have only  had this  experience with  angle as you don't  get sufficient clamping  surface.


I use a chunk of 2x4 between the clamp face and the vertical of the angle. Keeps it clamped tight. I do the same in the bandsaw.


----------



## slodat

I recently brought home an American Pacemaker 14x30 lathe. Moving the new lathe shined a bright light on my need for better rigging equipment. For starters my Northern Tool bar was not getting it done when we were setting the machine in place. A dealer I used years ago had a very effective machinery rigging bar and I’ve looked for one for a long time. Several threads on PM really helped me find that sort of purpose built bar. Last week, at the recommendation of info I found there, I ordered two riggers nose bars from Eastern Rigging Supply- a flare toe 66” and a straight toe 72”. They arrived today. They both make easy work of nudging the lathe around and lifting it to place a bar or shim under it. These were bit cheap, especially when you include the freight cost. They are well worth it to me. 

I have three machines that weigh over 2 tons, two of which are closer to 3 tons. This is the weight class of machines I’m enjoying having in the shop. It's crazy how easy it is to lift one end of the machine with the blue bars. Night and day difference. The blue bars are from Eastern Rigging Supply, the black bar is from Northern Tool. 













I got this set of shop made machine skates off a guy on eBay. Very well done and I couldn’t make them for much less than he charges. 






We knew my light/medium duty come along would ultimately fail when we were using it to move the lathe on the pipe. I found this high quality 3ton American made puller. It is much better suited for moving machinery around.






I feel a lot better equipped to reposition the lathe and other equipment I hope to add to the shop in the future.


----------



## Aukai

Must be the fever, caught this with only a couple of min left, no real time to ask around. 72.00. "New in box" Starrett planer gage, plus other trinkets.


----------



## erikmannie

2 1/2”, 3” and 4” straight tail lathe dogs. These are cast iron & made in India by “Meda-Superior Import”. These are economy grade, by any standard.

The smaller sizes (e.g. 3/4”) have too short of a tail to reach the drive pin on my face plate. I need to make a few lathe dogs with a long tail.



			https://www.msdiscounttool.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=105053
		




			https://www.msdiscounttool.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=105054
		




			https://www.msdiscounttool.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=105055


----------



## JRaut

In the coming weeks I'm getting a couple new machines delivered.

I don't want to ruin the surprise, but:
- one of them kinda rhymes with "Nose Belgian"
- the other kinda rhymes with "Freight Sign Belgian"

And Roger Smith has an excellent YouTube series on how to use them.


----------



## ahazi

slodat said:


> I recently brought home an American Pacemaker 14x30 lathe. Moving the new lathe shined a bright light on my need for better rigging equipment. For starters my Northern Tool bar was not getting it done when we were setting the machine in place. A dealer I used years ago had a very effective machinery rigging bar and I’ve looked for one for a long time. Several threads on PM really helped me find that sort of purpose built bar. Last week, at the recommendation of info I found there, I ordered two riggers nose bars from Eastern Rigging Supply- a flare toe 66” and a straight toe 72”. They arrived today. They both make easy work of nudging the lathe around and lifting it to place a bar or shim under it. These were bit cheap, especially when you include the freight cost. They are well worth it to me.
> 
> I have three machines that weigh over 2 tons, two of which are closer to 3 tons. This is the weight class of machines I’m enjoying having in the shop. It's crazy how easy it is to lift one end of the machine with the blue bars. Night and day difference. The blue bars are from Eastern Rigging Supply, the black bar is from Northern Tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We knew my light/medium duty come along would ultimately fail when we were using it to move the lathe on the pipe. I found this high quality 3ton American made puller. It is much better suited for moving machinery around.
> 
> 
> 
> I feel a lot better equipped to reposition the lathe and other equipment I hope to add to the shop in the future.


I used the Northern Tool Strongway Steel Pry Bar Lever — 5.5-Ton Capacity and I found it very useful to move and elevate machinery. The two riggers nose bars from Eastern Rigging Supply are in my opinion a different class of tools. They have much higher leverage (shorter tongue) and are very sharp which means you can lift more weight with less clearance but you cannot roll it like a doley. Definitely very useful for a rigging tool box.

Very informative post, thank you!

Ariel


----------



## slodat

ahazi said:


> I used the Northern Tool Strongway Steel Pry Bar Lever — 5.5-Ton Capacity and I found it very useful to move and elevate machinery. The two riggers nose bars from Eastern Rigging Supply are in my opinion a different class of tools. They have much higher leverage (shorter tongue) and are very sharp which means you can lift more weight with less clearance but you cannot roll it like a doley. Definitely very useful for a rigging tool box.
> 
> Very informative post, thank you!
> 
> Ariel



Exactly, very different tools. The bar from Northern doesn’t have the needed leverage to lift the heavier machinery and the wheels can be as much a hindrance as help depending on what you’re doing. They compliment one another well.


----------



## 7milesup

JRaut said:


> In the coming weeks I'm getting a couple new machines delivered.
> 
> I don't want to ruin the surprise, but:
> - one of them kinda rhymes with "Nose Belgian"
> - the other kinda rhymes with "Freight Sign Belgian"
> 
> And Roger Smith has an excellent YouTube series on how to use them.


I dunno.  
Rose engine turning?  Or something like that.  
After looking into Roger Smith (way more than one on YouTube BTW), it looks like you may go into watch making.  I didn't even know that was a thing anymore.  *sigh*  One more thing on my list before I die.


----------



## 7milesup

Picked these two fellas up to compliment my granite surface plate.  Actually, the picture was taken on da wife's granite surface plate, hence the paper protection under them.
$140 for the digital one and $102 for the analog one.  I'm happy.


----------



## rwm

Where did you get those???
R


----------



## DavidR8

7milesup said:


> Picked these two fellas up to compliment my granite surface plate. Actually, the picture was taken on da wife's granite surface plate, hence the paper protection under them.
> $140 for the digital one and $102 for the analog one. I'm happy.



Those are beauts!


----------



## 7milesup

rwm said:


> Where did you get those???
> R


Auction in Minneapolis.  
I got lucky because there were similar ones on a live online auction a month or so ago, ironically from the same auction house, and I believe those went for over $300 each.


----------



## slodat

Phase converter installed. 











Next up is getting the three phase panel in.


----------



## WobblyHand

Received some 1" square steel bar stock to make my screwless vise hold downs and some 1.5" 1045 round stock.  Going to make an arbor out of the 1045.  To help with that, I also received some TPCB-2200-CM1 inserts (0.002 radius) for my 3/8" QCBI carbide boring bar.  The inserts have arrived before the carbide bar.  Hope to get the boring bar within a couple of days.  Also received a 3/4" 60 degree dovetail cutter and a 3/8" reamer.  An eclectic collection of stuff, but it fills in the gaps in my tool collection.


----------



## extropic

@slodat 
Nice job on the RPC.
I'm curious about the vibration isolators you used under the idler motor.
I haven't seen that configuration before.
Can you identify the source?


----------



## slodat

extropic said:


> @slodat
> Nice job on the RPC.
> I'm curious about the vibration isolators you used under the idler motor.
> I haven't seen that configuration before.
> Can you identify the source?



Of course. They are an ac mount. Inexpensive and seem to be great for this application. 



			Amazon.com
		


The manufacturer says to not rigid mount the idler. This is what I came up with.


----------



## erikmannie

3 cast iron straight tail lathe dogs (1-1/2”, 1-3/4” and 2”). These are economy imports, with an average cost of $15 each.

While my face plates for both lathes use 5/8” T-slot nuts (with 1/2”-13 threaded dog drivers), my 4J chuck that has T-slots calls for 18mm T-slot nuts. These T-slot nuts are M16 X 2.0, so I bought two black oxide 1018 steel TECO brand M18 T-slot nuts, 1 meter of bare steel M16 X 2.0 all thread to make the dog driving pins, & a few M16 X 2.0 nuts.


----------



## Brento

Bought this little guy


----------



## devils4ever

Papa Charlie said:


> I have thought about buying one of these. Would be very interested in you opinion after you have had a chance to use it.



I've posted my impressions of the Drill Doctor 750X on another thread so as to not derail discussions here.


----------



## Papa Charlie

slodat said:


> Of course. They are an ac mount. Inexpensive and seem to be great for this application.
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> The manufacturer says to not rigid mount the idler. This is what I came up with.



Really nice installation. I am curious as I have not had to do this YET.

So looking at the images you posted, it appears as though the single phase power comes into the Eaton disconnect, then into the American Rotary phase inverter, which is also fed from the idler motor, then that will go to a traditional 3 phase distribution panel and from there you can distribute the power to multiple machines, is that correct? Just trying to put this right in my head.

I would also assume that if any of the 3 phase loads require 480V instead of 240V you would then need to install a stepup transformer between the distribution panel and the load.


----------



## slodat

Papa Charlie said:


> Really nice installation. I am curious as I have not had to do this YET.
> 
> So looking at the images you posted, it appears as though the single phase power comes into the Eaton disconnect, then into the phase inverter, which is also fed from the idler motor, then that will go to a traditional 3 phase distribution panel and from there you can distribute the power to multiple machines, is that correct? Just trying to put this right in my head.



Single phase power comes in from the panel above. Idler is to the right of the panel, in the next room. The disconnect is between the converter and the three phase panel. 







The panels in that photo starting at the left are dust collection automation PLC, 240v sub panel, 240v main panel. Second row on the left is an Ecobee thermostat controlling five Cadet Hot One heaters throughout the shop, vfd and controls for spray booth exhaust fan the next two are impulse relay box for lighting contactor and then the mechanically held lighting contactor. Bottom left is three phase disconnect headed to three phase panel and lastly the American Rotary converter. 

I can make a thread about the automation in my shop if that’s something that interests you guys.


----------



## Papa Charlie

slodat said:


> Single phase power comes in from the panel above. Idler is to the right of the panel, in the next room. The disconnect is between the converter and the three phase panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The panels in that photo starting at the left are dust collection automation PLC, 240v sub panel, 240v main panel. Second row on the left is an Ecobee thermostat controlling five Cadet Hot One heaters throughout the shop, vfd and controls for spray booth exhaust fan the next two are impulse relay box for lighting contactor and then the mechanically held lighting contactor. Bottom left is three phase disconnect headed to three phase panel and lastly the American Rotary converter.
> 
> I can make a thread about the automation in my shop if that’s something that interests you guys.



Thank you for the information. Interesting and well laid out setup you have there.


----------



## BGHansen

Few recent pickups.  I bought a DoAll 16" vertical band saw a month ago and was noodling over a design for a mobile base.  The saw weighs around 1000 lbs.  I checked out Grizzly for mobile bases design ideas and saw (pun intended) this Super Heavy-Duty mobile base rated at 1300 lbs. for $110.  The front/rear of the frame were reinforced twice.  First with some 2" x 1/4" thick angle iron.  The mobile base is a frame with pads for the equipment in the corners.  Problem was the DoAll base is "T" shaped, so nothing in the back corners to set on the mobile base pads.  I cut a couple of lengths of angle to bridge the gap, one at the front and one at the back so the saw would stay level.  Worked great until I stepped down on the power feed pedal, and as luck would have it, it hit the top of the base frame.  The pedal was about 1/8" short of getting to the latch position.  So, stuck a couple of 1 1/4" x 3/8" lengths of bar stock on top of the angle to shim the saw up.

Next problem was the cast-iron casters.  I didn't realize it, but they had no lube on the axles.  Thought I was going to need a machine moving pry bar to roll it around.  Shot some LPS 1 lube on the casters and it's now a mobile base.  I'm a little nervous about the fixed casters as there are only screw-down foot pads for the swivel casters.  The fixed ones support the weight all of the time.  I'll probably add a couple of levelers on the straight caster corners to take the load off the casters.

The leveling pads have a nice design that may be useful for other bases.  They screws/legs are two-piece.  The screw at the top has a magnet on the bottom end, the foot is an un-threaded rod with the foot pad on the end.  Unscrew the top to lift the pad; when tightening, the pad hits the floor and the "swivel" is the screw/magnet slipping over the top of the foot rod.  The only issue I found was I knocked the two apart when rolling the base over some bumps and separated the pad so it dragged on the floor.  On the plus side, it didn't have any weight on it and seemed to slide easily without scrubbing the surface.









Year ago Mr. Pete turned me on to stubby, machine screw length drill bits for my mills.  They're quite short compared to jobber length.  Advantages are a more rigid drill bit giving an option of skipping pre-drilling the hole with a spotting drill.  Also, the shorter length helps with a shorter overall tool length.  I bought a set of Norseman stubby fractionals for my Tormach a while back.  Picked up this Norseman stubby 1-60 set off eBay for around $90 shipped.





More Mr. Pete fodder.  I watched a video years ago with him tapping holes with a tapping head on the drill press.  Seemed like a slick way to go if I had a bunch of holes to do.  I got "Mr. Pete tool envy" and bought a Procunier 1E tapping head with a straight 1/2" shank off eBay years ago.  I didn't research it very well and discovered that they used unique collets by tap size.  I thought they'd use a two-jaw chuck like a hand tap wrench, but "no", there's a 0-#6, #8, #10, #12 and 1/4" series of collets.  Mine came with a #12; found this set on eBay for $12 each.





Thanks for looking, Bruce


----------



## slodat

I’ve used those Grizzly bases on several machines. When the machine doesn’t have a rectangle bottom, I bolt a piece of 3/4 plywood to the base and the machine to the plywood.


----------



## sdelivery

I only wanted the side boxes but the man said all four peices for 125.00.....
I pulled out two fifties and ask him if he would take 
	

		
			
		

		
	





	

		
			
		

		
	
100.00


----------



## extropic

@slodat 
You've got me curious again.
In your picture showing the disc sander, please identify the white radiused "L" pieces hanging on the pegboard.
I assume they're templates for cutting/sanding corner radii but I've never seen those.
I googled what I thought (guessed) I could read but no luck.


----------



## 7milesup

Built a base for my Bridgeport SG.


----------



## slodat

extropic said:


> @slodat
> You've got me curious again.
> In your picture showing the disc sander, please identify the white radiused "L" pieces hanging on the pegboard.
> I assume they're templates for cutting/sanding corner radii but I've never seen those.
> I googled what I thought (guessed) I could read but no luck.



They are router templates used in car audio and interior fabrication. Since I got the cnc router and co2 laser I mostly use them for layout and then draw in CAD and cut on cnc equipment. The arcs are nice for picking up a line off a car for example.


----------



## 7milesup

slodat said:


> They are router templates used in car audio and interior fabrication. Since I got the cnc router and co2 laser I mostly use them for layout and then draw in CAD and cut on cnc equipment. The arcs are nice for picking up a line off a car for example.


Wow.  that is a lot of templates.  Nice shop BTW


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a 5” straight tail lathe dog & a bunch of small straight tail lathe dogs from Machine Shop Discount Supply.

I had thought that the tails on the smaller ones were too short to reach my driving pin, but I figured out a way to get a dog driving pin closer to the centerline. I am working on that project later today.


----------



## Aaron_W

I used to do a lot of resin casting, but it went into hibernation after I moved (8 years ago). I'm really wanting to get started up again so just got myself a nice 5 gallon pressure pot to replace the cheap 2.5 gallon HF pot I had. It should get here on Tuesday. Now I have to start looking around to find out what the current hotness is for resin supplies, after 8 years I'm a little out of the loop.


----------



## DavidR8

@slodat What CNC router do you have?


----------



## 7milesup

Aaron_W said:


> I used to do a lot of resin casting, but it went into hibernation after I moved (8 years ago). I'm really wanting to get started up again so just got myself a nice 5 gallon pressure pot to replace the cheap 2.5 gallon HF pot I had. It should get here on Tuesday. Now I have to start looking around to find out what the current hotness is for resin supplies, after 8 years I'm a little out of the loop.
> 
> View attachment 353290


That looks like some serious equipment for resin casting.  What do you cast?


----------



## slodat

DavidR8 said:


> @slodat What CNC router do you have?



5’ x 8’ Chinese router. I bought it from Hytek Tools and paid a premium for it at the time. It was my first cnc machine. I had to replace the controls. It came with Mach3 and was not at all stable or reliable. Replaced control with Centroid Acorn and it has been a great machine since.


----------



## Aaron_W

7milesup said:


> That looks like some serious equipment for resin casting.  What do you cast?



Model stuff, mostly for trucks and emergency vehicles. I've duplicated kit parts that I'd like more copies of as well as parts I've scratch built. I've even done a couple of model truck cabs. I never really trusted the HF pot and it was kind of small and awkward to use with a concave bottom, so didn't do a lot of pressure casting with it. The point of using pressure is it crushes any air bubbles making a better quality part.

Now that I have a 3D printer, lathe, mill, bigger compressor and a pot that doesn't scare me I'd like to get more serious about making stuff that I can not only use myself but also maybe sell some to other modelers and get all this stuff to help pay for its way.

These are fairly simple parts, but the emergency lights, siren, antenna base, mirrors and wheels / tires on this model were cast resin parts that I did. Not shown but I also cast the transmission, transfer case and front powered axle. I also made the decals. The tool boxes, tank, pump parts, tools and railing were scratch built. The pickup itself is an off the shelf plastic model kit, with some modifications to make it a lower trim level.





This is a 1980s Ford F700 cab I cast. It is a little rough because I couldn't fit it in the small pressure pot, and also an early attempt at casting something like this. Oddly for such a common truck nobody offers a 1/25 scale kit of it.





I've been gathering the information to scratch build a Hall Scott 1091 engine which I will cast when done. The 1091 was one of the most powerful truck engines in the 1950s and 60s, very popular with fire departments and loggers on the West Coast (Hall Scott was a California engine builder). I think it would be a fairly popular item for truck modelers and nobody does one.


----------



## brino

Aaron_W said:


> Now that I have a 3D printer, lathe, mill, bigger compressor and a pot that doesn't scare me I'd like to get more serious about making stuff that I can not only use myself but also maybe sell some to other modelers and get all this stuff to help pay for its way.
> 
> These are fairly simple parts, but the emergency lights, siren, antenna base, mirrors and wheels / tires on this model were cast resin parts that I did. Not shown but I also cast the transmission, transfer case and front powered axle. I also made the decals. The tool boxes, tank, pump parts, tools and railing were scratch built. The pickup itself is an off the shelf plastic model kit, with some modifications to make it a lower trim level.



Please, please, pretty please...... could you give us a run down of the process.
I have never even read about it.

I realize it would require it's own thread, but I am very interested to learn about it.
I'd love to hear your experiences, highs and lows, troubles and tribulations.

Thanks for any additional info!
-brino


----------



## Tim9

Picked up a little machinist vise. The jaw width is 1-3/4”.
I just had to have it when I noticed the toolmaker’s initials were same as mine. It was only 25.00 plus shipping. So for 40.00 it’s okay. I was pleasantly surprised to see the metal is definitely tool steel. A sharp file barely cleaned up the nicks. Really a nice little and well made vise.


----------



## Aaron_W

brino said:


> Please, please, pretty please...... could you give us a run down of the process.
> I have never even read about it.
> 
> I realize it would require it's own thread, but I am very interested to learn about it.
> I'd love to hear your experiences, highs and lows, troubles and tribulations.
> 
> Thanks for any additional info!
> -brino



I can probably do that, the basics are not very difficult but there is some trial and error when learning what works and what doesn't.


----------



## Tim9

3-D printing has really evolved over the past 10 years. I wasn’t impressed at first because I received a printed gear on a SB thread dial and it was not up to par. 
But I’ve been reading a lot of you guys doing some pretty damned neat stuff lately so read up more about the technology. The filament and resins have seemed to be a real game changer. 
    It’s really a damned cool technology. Very useful. I just wish I was a little better on the computer stuff.


----------



## hman

I guess I'll climb onto the Grizzly mobile base bandwagon.  This is the base under my first machine tool (still have it!), a Harbor Freight mini-mill.  Bought both the table and the mobile base from Grizzly.  Don't know if they've gotten their act together, but at the time (2008 or 09), none of their ##^$#!@@!!! mobile bases were correctly sized to fit their equipment tables.  So I had to improvise - moved the "long" base bars to the sides, then cut the "short" base bars in half and added angle iron extenders.  This is a view from the rear.  And no, the "big wheel" on the front corner is NOT for rolling along the walls.  There's one on each front corner, located to protect my ankle bones from hitting the caster mounts ... a painful experience!  Didn't take me more than once to decide to do something about it.


----------



## Aaron_W

Tim9 said:


> 3-D printing has really evolved over the past 10 years. I wasn’t impressed at first because I received a printed gear on a SB thread dial and it was not up to par.
> But I’ve been reading a lot of you guys doing some pretty damned neat stuff lately so read up more about the technology. The filament and resins have seemed to be a real game changer.
> It’s really a damned cool technology. Very useful. I just wish I was a little better on the computer stuff.



I've been watching 3D printers since about 2009, and was really on the fence between buying my first lathe or a 3D printer in 2015. At that time 3D printers just were not where I needed them to be and the cheapest ones worth considering were over $1000. Not sure exactly when, but somewhere around 2017 they made it over the hump. Print quality shot up and prices came crashing down. Now the under $1000 printers are doing stuff that only commercial grade ($10,000+) printers were capable of 5 or 6 years ago.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Well, I finally won a couple of items on Ebay for what I think are some reasonable prices.

First item, or should I say items as I got both in the same auction, is a Starrett S-579-H Telescoping Gage set and a Starrett S-831-E Small Hole Gage set for $79. The pictures from the sale show the hole gages have some surface rust on them. I will want to remove that when I get them, but need to figure out the best way as to no damage the gages.

Any proven methods you have to share would be very welcome. I was thinking some WD40 and fine 3M pad.







Then I won a Starrett 473 Pitch Gage, 6-60 pitch for $29. This appears to be in very good shape.


----------



## finsruskw

Papa, I just snagged a new gage for $19
No box though.


----------



## Diecutter

finsruskw said:


> Papa, I just snagged a new gage for $19
> No box though.


$10.00 bonus for thinking outside of the box!


----------



## slodat

Received an order of carbide inserts from a China seller on eBay.


----------



## Dell

Received QCTP from Germany for my Derbyshire Magnus 10mm lathe.
Dell


----------



## Dhal22

Aaron_W said:


> Model stuff, mostly for trucks and emergency vehicles. I've duplicated kit parts that I'd like more copies of as well as parts I've scratch built. I've even done a couple of model truck cabs. I never really trusted the HF pot and it was kind of small and awkward to use with a concave bottom, so didn't do a lot of pressure casting with it. The point of using pressure is it crushes any air bubbles making a better quality part.
> 
> Now that I have a 3D printer, lathe, mill, bigger compressor and a pot that doesn't scare me I'd like to get more serious about making stuff that I can not only use myself but also maybe sell some to other modelers and get all this stuff to help pay for its way.
> 
> These are fairly simple parts, but the emergency lights, siren, antenna base, mirrors and wheels / tires on this model were cast resin parts that I did. Not shown but I also cast the transmission, transfer case and front powered axle. I also made the decals. The tool boxes, tank, pump parts, tools and railing were scratch built. The pickup itself is an off the shelf plastic model kit, with some modifications to make it a lower trim level.
> 
> View attachment 353308
> 
> 
> 
> This is a 1980s Ford F700 cab I cast. It is a little rough because I couldn't fit it in the small pressure pot, and also an early attempt at casting something like this. Oddly for such a common truck nobody offers a 1/25 scale kit of it.
> 
> View attachment 353309
> 
> 
> 
> I've been gathering the information to scratch build a Hall Scott 1091 engine which I will cast when done. The 1091 was one of the most powerful truck engines in the 1950s and 60s, very popular with fire departments and loggers on the West Coast (Hall Scott was a California engine builder). I think it would be a fairly popular item for truck modelers and nobody does one.




My radio control Piper Cub is going to have a few scale details.   This might be one way to replicate them......


----------



## Papa Charlie

OK, I did it again. Won a Starrett 454 height gage with case on Ebay. Got it for $65. Looks to be in very good condition. All parts are there.


----------



## slodat

finsruskw said:


> Papa, I just snagged a new gage for $19
> No box though.



Thanks for this. I just got the last one!


----------



## Aaron_W

Dhal22 said:


> My radio control Piper Cub is going to have a few scale details.   This might be one way to replicate them......



If you are making something that you will use multiples of resin is great for that. For really simple parts you can even use modelling clay and epoxy.


----------



## Brento

Brento said:


> Bought this little guy


Just found out the lathe was built and sold in 1942


----------



## Fermic

Well, it was long waiting for a big parcel to arrive but there's it with my 4" 4-jaw chuck, Alu 6061, Steel 12L14 and Tellurium Copper round bars to spice up my diy electronic stuff as well.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Fermic said:


> Well, it was long waiting for a big parcel to arrive but there's it with my 4" 4-jaw chuck, Alu 6061, Steel 12L14 and Tellurium Copper round bars to spice up my diy electronic stuff as well.
> 
> View attachment 353757



Looks like you got a new quick tool post as well.


----------



## DavidR8

Received my Starrett 723 digital mic’s back from Starrett today. 
They are like brand new tools.


----------



## slodat

The local scrap yard sells “stainless” (anything a magnet doesn’t stick to and isn’t aluminum) for $1/lb and anything ferrous for $0.40/lb. I got a lot of barstock from them. A little weather worn, and good in the middle. This is about 300 pounds of material to turn into scrap and chips.

The 3" bars are labelled 316L on the end. I suspect the rusty stuff is 4140. That's what they said at the scrap yard. It machines really nice!


----------



## Jim F

slodat said:


> The local scrap yard sells “stainless” (anything a magnet doesn’t stick to and isn’t aluminum) for $1/lb and anything ferrous for $0.40/lb. I got a lot of barstock from them. A little weather worn, and good in the middle. This is about 300 pounds of material to turn into scrap and chips.
> 
> The 3" bars are labelled 316L on the end. I suspect the rusty stuff is 4140. That's what they said at the scrap yard. It machines really nice!


No places around here do that.........


----------



## slodat

Jim F said:


> No places around here do that.........


I will probably go back and buy the rest of what they had tomorrow. Better to have it on the shelf in the shop.


----------



## Brento

slodat said:


> I will probably go back and buy the rest of what they had tomorrow. Better to have it on the shelf in the shop.


I could use a chunk of that 4140 lol


----------



## slodat

I don't know how to tell if it's actually 4140 or not. It does machine nice.


----------



## Mgdoug3

I didn't buy it today but I did get around to installing and using my new to me Wilton Bullet 4" vise today.  Got it from a friend for $50 last Saturday.  It wasn't froze up but was rusty.  Tore it down and removed all the rust and paint.  I repainted it and lubed up everything.  I'm happy with the end result and plan to use this vise for the rest of my life.


----------



## BGHansen

Few eBay pickups.  I had some eBay bucks that were expiring, so splurged on some new 10-24 spiral flute bottoming taps.  I bought some Morse ones a while back but didn't notice that they were for tapping heli-coil holes for 10-24 threads.  Now have the real deal.





I don't know why, but my personal preference for micrometers is the old tumbler-style digitals.  I can do the simple math of adding 25, 50 or 75 to the thimble number, but prefer the direct-reading number.  Plus, no batteries to change though it would be nice to Zero at a target and mic the delta.

Anyway, I have 0-1" EZ-read Fowler screw pitch mic's at both lathes and had been looking for some 1"-2".  Bought one for $80 delivered which included a 1" and 2" standard.  Guess that'd be handy for zero'ing the mic if it happened to be closer to one end than the other.

I don't know the recommended process for setting these up, but here's my process.  These mic's have locks on both the thimble and the anvil.  I put the proper points in place (like 9-13 tpi) and turn the micrometer to 1.0000 (on a 1" - 2" model, 0.0000 on a 0-1").  Lock the thimble and unlock the anvil.  Push the anvil back for clearance, set the standard in between the points, squeeze the anvil so it's hard into the standard and lock the anvil.

I tried turning this one to 0.0000 but it stopped travel at something like 0.125.  So, pulled two small screws from the back to remove the cover and slip the counter off the mic.  There's a brass gear on the thimble that engages with a gear in the read-out gear box.  I manually spun it to 0.0000, backed off the thimble a turn or two so it could travel to under 1.0000, and slipped the gear box back on.  Easy peasy:  Zero the mic, lock the thimble, loosen the anvil lock level, set the 1" standard in place, squeeze the anvil and lock it down.  Then it dawned on me that perhaps a 1"-2" mic should zero at 1.0000, not 0.0000. . .  Simple math, but off came the read-out gear box, spun the gears to 1.0000 and reassembled.  That gave me an upgrade for my Grizzly 14x40.











Not wanting my Clausing 12"x24" to feel left out, I kept my eBay search for "Fowler screw micrometer".  Another one popped up at a starting bid of $40 with free shipping.  No standard in this one, but I already had an extra.  I ended up being the only bidder for $40 delivered for the second one.  No problems with the read-out gear box on the second one.  My eBay search for "Fowler screw micrometer" is now officially off my eBay search list!

Thanks for looking, Bruce


----------



## DavidR8

I received a bunch of parts for my CNC plasma cutter build.
Power supply, steppers and bearings.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Well, I came across a garage sale on CL yesterday and figured I would make a try. Ended up buying a Wright Safeway 1/2 ton chain hoist for $25, welding Vice Grips for $5 and a slag hammer for $1.
I have been wanting a chain hoist for some time. Would have preferred a 1 or even a 2 ton but for the money, I couldn't pass it up. All are in great condition.


----------



## Papa Charlie

I posted that I had won a set of Starrett Telescoping gages a little ways back and that they needed to be cleaned up from the surface rust. I had been watching Abom79 last year polishing on some metal that was a joint project with a polishing cloth called Miracle All Purpose Polishing Cloth. Catchy name don't you think. But I was impressed with what I saw so I ordered one from Amazon. Well I put it away and completely forgot about it until I was contemplating on what to use to clean up the gages. So I figured what do I have to loose. I did like Adam said and cut small pieces of the cloth to use on the gages. The cloth turns black as you use it. It is also very durable, which is something that I have not seen in too many of these products. The results, well all I can say is amazing! I will let you decide from the before and after pictures. I have also posted the link to Amazon for this.

Here is the before. Sorry this image was from the Ebay add. They actually looked worse than this when I received them, but never thought to take a new image.



And here is the final result. The total time to do all the telescoping gages and the small hole gage set was about 20 minutes. I figured it wasn't going to do much. But, well you be the judge.



I will be ordering more of this. Good to have around and not expensive at all. I still have plenty of cloth left. Only negative thing I can say is the package is not resealable. But then I have zip lock bags that can correct that. Also, Adam had suggested you follow up with microfiber cloth to clean off the residue and create the final image. I didn't have any so used a paper towel instead. Wonder how they would have looked if I had used the microfiber?



			https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VX8DMKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Gaffer

They look good. It seems this product is a saturated cloth of Brasso, silver polish, or the like. If so, a can of polish and rag would go a long way for the price of one of these cloths.


----------



## finsruskw

At last!!
A Thread gage I can actually read!!


----------



## finsruskw

Does anyone know if Starrett could/would sell a replacement pouch for a set of adjustable parallels?


----------



## Papa Charlie

Gaffer said:


> They look good. It seems this product is a saturated cloth of Brasso, silver polish, or the like. If so, a can of polish and rag would go a long way for the price of one of these cloths.



Where did you get this information?

The only ingredient that is called out is Coconut Oil. I could find nothing else on the internet. According to the package this will work on metal, *wood*, ceramic, enamel and auto bodies. It was developed by a muscial instrument care company, Dunlop Mft. Co. out of Benicia, CA

If it had Brasso or other chemicals like it, It seems it would stain wood.

If you have access to a better information source I would love to see it.


----------



## Gaffer

I'm sorry and didn't mean anything by it. I hadn't heard of the product and wasn't calling its quality into question. I was thinking of metal cleaning/polishing when I responded to your post. I'm glad it works, and it sounds very versatile.


----------



## Badabinski

Just pulled the trigger on a new Bison 8" 6 jaw set-tru chuck! I'm tired of dialing in my work on my old 8" 4 jaw and most of my raw stock is cold rolled, so I figured I'd go a bit nuts and get a high quality 6 jaw that could stand in for my 4 jaw most of the time. I'll still lug out the 4 jaw for hot rolled stock/weird setups, but the 6 jaw should save me boatloads of time. Also, I'll stop deforming my round parts by putting too much gronk on them. Can't wait for it to get here!


----------



## Brento

Badabinski said:


> Just pulled the trigger on a new Bison 8" 6 jaw set-tru chuck! I'm tired of dialing in my work on my old 8" 4 jaw and most of my raw stock is cold rolled, so I figured I'd go a bit nuts and get a high quality 6 jaw that could stand in for my 4 jaw most of the time. I'll still lug out the 4 jaw for hot rolled stock/weird setups, but the 6 jaw should save me boatloads of time. Also, I'll stop deforming my round parts by putting too much gronk on them. Can't wait for it to get here!


How does a set-tru chuck work?


----------



## Badabinski

Brento said:


> How does a set-tru chuck work?


I don't know the mechanical details, but from my understanding there's basically a plate between the chuck and the backplate. This middle plate has some screws in it that push on the chuck itself. Using the screws, you can push the chuck in X and Y to true it up really precisely for a certain diameter range of stock. You do have to true it up again if the diameter of your work changes substantially, however, since a different part of the scroll may center up differently.

I was inspired to get it by Abom79, who has a TMX set-tru 6 jaw and (I think) routinely gets half a thou of runout.

EDIT: I'm not totally correct here. See the response @BGHansen left for a more accurate answer.


----------



## 682bear

I picked up a 7.5 hp motor for a future RPC build.

-Bear


----------



## JohnnyTK

Fermic said:


> Well, it was long waiting for a big parcel to arrive but there's it with my 4" 4-jaw chuck, Alu 6061, Steel 12L14 and Tellurium Copper round bars to spice up my diy electronic stuff as well.
> 
> Did you have to pay duty on the hobby metal aluminum coming into Canada?


----------



## Fermic

> Did you have to pay duty on the hobby metal aluminum coming into Canada?



I can't know because I paid duty for everything in a single box from parcel forwarder.


----------



## BGHansen

Brento said:


> How does a set-tru chuck work?


The backing plate on a chuck typically has something called a "register" which fits tightly to the back of the chuck.  Somewhat like the tapered centers dropping into your tail stock, though the chuck register usually doesn't have a taper.  It's machined square and is a slip fit onto the chuck.

The backing plate has countersunk clearance holes for bolting to the chuck (if the chuck back is threaded).  The register radially aligns the chuck to the backing plate, tighten the cap screws in the backing plate to attach it to the chuck.  Guys typically leave the register a few thousandths undersize so you can do a little "truing" with a brass hammer on the chuck if needed.

Set-tru chucks have cap screw holes through the face of the chuck and the backing plate has the tapped holes.  The register is turned for more clearance.  The amount of clearance is the limit of your adjustment.  For example, if the pocket in the back of the chuck was 5.000" and your backing plate had a register diameter of 4.5", you'd have 0.5" of total adjustment (0.25" on the radius).  There are typically 4 socket head set screws at 90's on the outside of the chuck that thread all the way through so they can touch the register.  These 4 screws act like the jaws on a 4-jaw chuck.

In use, I mount the work in the chuck and check run-out with an indicator.  I loosen the 3 clamping cap screws on the face of the chuck.  My set-tru has the adjusting set screws labeled 1, 2, 1, 2 as I rotate the chuck.  I rotate the chuck so a "1" is close to center vertically and zero the indicator.  Then rotate the chuck 180 so the opposite "1" is centered vertically and note the number.  Suppose it's 0.006".  I use two Allen wrenches, one in each "1" screw and loose one side.  Tighten the other and move the indicator to 0.003".  I rotate back 180 and read the opposite side; should be 0.003" but sometimes it takes a very swings to dial it in.

I then zero the indicator and double check "1" to "1".  If it's good I rotate so a "2" is at center height.  Adjust the two "2" screws until the indicator reads zero. 

Once everything is dialed in (much like dialing in a 4-jaw chuck), I snug up the 3 clamp screws on the face of the chuck and re-check runout.

Bruce


Here's a link to a thread on my install of the set-tru chuck on my G0709 lathe









						Potd - Project Of The Day- What Did You Do In Your Shop Today?
					

Nice job. What is the reason for narrowing the wheels? I thought most people wanted wider wheels.




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## Brento

BGHansen said:


> The backing plate on a chuck typically has something called a "register" which fits tightly to the back of the chuck.  Somewhat like the tapered centers dropping into your tail stock, though the chuck register usually doesn't have a taper.  It's machined square and is a slip fit onto the chuck.
> 
> The backing plate has countersunk clearance holes for bolting to the chuck (if the chuck back is threaded).  The register radially aligns the chuck to the backing plate, tighten the cap screws in the backing plate to attach it to the chuck.  Guys typically leave the register a few thousandths undersize so you can do a little "truing" with a brass hammer on the chuck if needed.
> 
> Set-tru chucks have cap screw holes through the face of the chuck and the backing plate has the tapped holes.  The register is turned for more clearance.  The amount of clearance is the limit of your adjustment.  For example, if the pocket in the back of the chuck was 5.000" and your backing plate had a register diameter of 4.5", you'd have 0.5" of total adjustment (0.25" on the radius).  There are typically 4 socket head set screws at 90's on the outside of the chuck that thread all the way through so they can touch the register.  These 4 screws act like the jaws on a 4-jaw chuck.
> 
> In use, I mount the work in the chuck and check run-out with an indicator.  I loosen the 3 clamping cap screws on the face of the chuck.  My set-tru has the adjusting set screws labeled 1, 2, 1, 2 as I rotate the chuck.  I rotate the chuck so a "1" is close to center vertically and zero the indicator.  Then rotate the chuck 180 so the opposite "1" is centered vertically and note the number.  Suppose it's 0.006".  I use two Allen wrenches, one in each "1" screw and loose one side.  Tighten the other and move the indicator to 0.003".  I rotate back 180 and read the opposite side; should be 0.003" but sometimes it takes a very swings to dial it in.
> 
> I then zero the indicator and double check "1" to "1".  If it's good I rotate so a "2" is at center height.  Adjust the two "2" screws until the indicator reads zero.
> 
> Once everything is dialed in (much like dialing in a 4-jaw chuck), I snug up the 3 clamp screws on the face of the chuck and re-check runout.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> 
> Here's a link to a thread on my install of the set-tru chuck on my G0709 lathe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Potd - Project Of The Day- What Did You Do In Your Shop Today?
> 
> 
> Nice job. What is the reason for narrowing the wheels? I thought most people wanted wider wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hobby-machinist.com


Now this is a scroll chuck correct?


----------



## BGHansen

Brento said:


> Now this is a scroll chuck correct?


It is. Set-tru chucks are scroll 3-jaw but can be finely adjustable to get no run out.

There may be other set-tru chucks out there that I'm not aware of. I could see uses for a 2-jaw, but can't say I've ever seen one.

Bruce


----------



## NCjeeper

finsruskw said:


> Does anyone know if Starrett could/would sell a replacement pouch for a set of adjustable parallels?


I don't, but you could just call Starrett and ask?


----------



## Aaron_W

brino said:


> Please, please, pretty please...... could you give us a run down of the process.
> I have never even read about it.
> 
> I realize it would require it's own thread, but I am very interested to learn about it.
> I'd love to hear your experiences, highs and lows, troubles and tribulations.
> 
> Thanks for any additional info!
> -brino


 
I started a thread for resin casting in the general discussion area

Resin casting


----------



## Dhal22

Aaron_W said:


> I started a thread for resin casting in the general discussion area
> 
> Resin casting




Looking now.


----------



## Dhal22

Several hammers for $20 or so on e eBay.  I see a need to turn some Delrin.


----------



## jethoops

Bought a Wellsaw 600 band saw at an on line auction last week. Got it in the shop and cut some metal with it today. ($350 + 13% buyers fee)  Blade is missing some teeth and had 2 kinks that had to be hammered out.  Anyone have any suggestions on on a new blade?


----------



## matthewsx

Thought I would pick up a little stock







Just happened to come with a Jacobs flex collet chuck








And collets




Don't even want to say what I paid but I most definitely suck....



John


----------



## finsruskw

Does this "buyers fee" mean the seller gets off scot free with no expenses involved in selling his stuff??
Just curious.
Seems to me it should be on his dime that the stuff even gets sold at all!
And what about "sales tax" for the state?


----------



## 7milesup

finsruskw said:


> Does this "buyers fee" mean the seller gets off scot free with no expenses involved in selling his stuff??
> Just curious.
> Seems to me it should be on his dime that the stuff even gets sold at all!
> And what about "sales tax" for the state?


I just dropped a few items off at an auction house I deal with.  They charge me (the seller) 15% AND the buyer 15% along with whatever the state tax is.   Yeah, if an auction house sells a lot of items, they make a lot of money.  However, they work hard at it (from what I can see).


----------



## NCjeeper

jethoops said:


> Anyone have any suggestions on on a new blade?


I order Starrett blades from McMaster Carr for my saws.


----------



## 7milesup

jethoops said:


> Anyone have any suggestions on on a new blade?


I get mine from Mars Supply.  They are Lennox DieMaster 2 blades.

*https://www.marssupply.com/*    Ask for Bonnie Jones, she will help you out.


----------



## Aukai

I just started seeing buyers fees, probably getting money from both sides now. Paypal is probably charging Ebay, now that they split. So I remember reading anyway.


----------



## Cheeseking

Buyers premiums are nothing new. Auction houses are a business and charge what the market will bear. I’ve seen as low as 8% up to 20%. Lot depends on the size, location and desirability of items. You have to factor premiums into what makes sense to bid. Cataloging, marketing, set-up, billing, govt’s cut, all kinds of costs involved. Nobody works for free. 
If it was easy money everyone would do it.


----------



## slodat

I received some used gang tooling to use with my Hardinge/Accuslide CNC lathe today. Gang tooling was a complete mystery to me, then I found this stuff for sale and now I can see how it will work. Cool stuff. 


















I am aware you would use these in this configuration if you could avoid it. Just visualizing how the tooling goes together.


----------



## Braeden P

will get the pictures later but i got a 3 inch chuck with 5c backplate for my dv-59 an aircraft countersink tool a 3/4 inch 5c collet and square collet block some hss a Hardinge  special bf 63 boring and facing bar never used some other brazed carbide tooling and a little boring bar 

I know I know no pics no proof but I need to get them cleaned up


----------



## Steve-F

Found a Emco Compact 8 spindle for my lathe project


----------



## Braeden P

The jaws of the chuck are in evopo rust anyone know the brand?


----------



## francist

Hmmm, probably not “Singer”...


----------



## f350ca

francist said:


> Hmmm, probably not “Singer”...


You never know, Singer made the 2 speed 3 phase motor on my Hardinge

Greg


----------



## sycle1

Auto center punch and 5/8" to 1/1/16" drill bits, not very exciting, but handy.
Nice looking Shepherd in your profile pic f350ca.


----------



## john.oliver35

francist said:


> Hmmm, probably not “Singer”...


Could be, Singer used to make servo's, gyroscopes, etc for missile systems.


----------



## francist

f350ca said:


> You never know, Singer made the 2 speed 3 phase motor on my Hardinge





john.oliver35 said:


> Could be, Singer used to make servo's, gyroscopes, etc for missile systems.


Well that’s quite true, I keep overlooking that. I knew they made some pretty wild stuff but wasn’t thinking lathe chuck. The manufacture of Hardinge motors is an interesting coincidence though.

-frank


----------



## projectnut

Singer also made home heating and cooling systems.  We had a Singer oil furnace at the family cottage for over 40 years.


----------



## finsruskw

WOW!!
Not just the pouch but the box it came in!!
MSC to the rescue here!!


----------



## Braeden P

finsruskw said:


> WOW!!
> Not just the pouch but the box it came in!!
> MSC to the rescue here!!


There is one problem with that it is not mine

Nice tools!


----------



## finsruskw

Braeden P said:


> There is one problem with that it is not mine
> 
> Nice tools!


Already had the tools, it's a replacement pouch, I did not expect the box though!
And almost overnight to boot!!

I have/had an NOS loose set of Starrett punches (no pouch or box) that I gave my Son for Christmas, I may just see If I can get a pouch for that also while I am at it.


----------



## Papa Charlie

@finsruskw  Was the pricing reasonable for the pouch? I would like to replace a couple of the damaged pouches I have for my Starrett instruments.


----------



## finsruskw

Well it was about what I thought, but the shipping was outrageous, but then I sure did not expect overnite delivery either.
Pouch was $15 and shipping was a bit more than that.
BTW, the MSC item number for the pouch is 86405891
I had to contact MSC via the chat section on their web site.


----------



## GoceKU

Few days ago i stopped by the flea/tool market and found and bought me few things. First thing i found was this old and taken apart tire gauge 1.5$. Then after lost of walking i found and bought me Led light with magnets on the back and two magnetic rods 2$. But the fine of the day come in last, i found and bought me propane heater 50KW. It needs a thermocouple but i can jam the valve till the new thermocouple arrives. I've tested it and it heats up the big garage pretty quickly, i do need to insulate the front door.


----------



## Nogoingback

Just a couple of small items today.  I've always used Rapid Tap on the lathe, but the one downside  is that it tends
to smoke and give off fumes.   The shop is in the basement where ventilation is poor, and my wife complains that the smell drifts
up the stairs, so I thought I'd try something different.  This stuff is advertised as producing very little smoke and based on the first
few jobs with it, I'd say it's true.  No smoke and minimal smell, and it seems to work well.

I have a job where I need to turn the OD of a couple of steel rings that are tough to chuck up, so I bought an expanding mandrel.
Purchased off Amazon, but  comes from a company called Breakheart Tool in New Hampshire, which states they're USA made.
Haven't tried it yet, but it looks like it will do the job.  They make a variety of sizes, and they're machinable to whatever ID is needed.


----------



## finsruskw

Let us know if that stuff stinks as well.
I got some EP tap magic couple weeks ago that crap really stinks the place up.
Once it's gone it will be back to Mistic Metal Mover.


----------



## Nogoingback

Smell seems to be minimal, and not as unpleasant as the RapidTap.


----------



## Winegrower

Umm...10 Valenite 4.5mm Torx screws to make some insert holders.   It was a slow day.


----------



## Badabinski

My Bison 6 jaw came in today and WOW, this thing is impressive! 


Miles beyond any other chuck I've ever owned. Now I need to figure out how I'm going to mount it. The 1-3/4 8 threaded backplate I got off of Shars is too thin (I think, I don't know what I'm doing). Maybe EvilBay will have something.


----------



## fitterman1

Thats a killer looking chuck


----------



## G-ManBart

It's been a couple of good days lately....been waiting for a deal on a Starrett 98-12 and got this one for $100....thought it was more than fair.  No box, but it doesn't show much use.


----------



## G-ManBart

I saw this Saylor-Beall 80 gallon at a local auction and figured it was going to go for a lot of money, but somehow I got it super cheap.  It's got the factory after cooler, low-oil cutoff switch and really only needs the water separator added to be exactly what I want.  It's three-phase, but I already have a new Baldor 5hp in the correct frame size, RPM, etc, so it's going to be an easy swap.  I already had a super nice Quincy QR-25 80 gallon, 5hp, but it didn't have the after cooler and that was going to cost me almost as much as the price I paid for this S-B....and the S-B is newer (2008 on the tank).  I haven't even cleaned it yet...this was just after moving it into the shop where I can work on it in a heated area.


----------



## finsruskw

I'm in the market for one as well.
Been looking at a Quincy 80 gal 5HP on an auction near me.
May bid on it but there is not much info and the auction house will not answer my requests for info.


----------



## matthewsx

What I was going to get.



But the seller claims

New message from: deepaeinquiry 


(1,312
	

)​
Dear Sir/Madam,
Sorry to bother you,thanks for buying our item.
So sorry to let you know that the item you ordered cannot send to you. Because of the carrier’s careless,whole package been damaged when loaded the goods, it cannot be shipped anymore,
Sorry, it cannot send it to you anymore .
we will refund the full money to you asap.
if you still want it ,you can make new order about this ,hope you can forgive us and thank you for your understanding in advance .​


So basically another discount seller that has no idea how to pack a big hunk of cast iron. 



But sometimes the universe is looking out for you....


I saw this last night and jumped on it 

John


----------



## finsruskw

Judging from what I paid for my Bison 3 jaw last year he Probably realized he had it way under priced for who knows what reason Typo maybe??!!


----------



## finsruskw

finsruskw said:


> I'm in the market for one as well.
> Been looking at a Quincy 80 gal 5HP on an auction near me.
> May bid on it but there is not much info and the auction house will not answer my requests for info.


Found out today compressor is in a basement in a house and there is no one available to unlock the house so I can look at it.

But, the good news, no charge for loading it as long as I do it myself??
Yeah, right.
I'm gonna want to fight a darned 600+ lb. A/C up out of a basement and get it into my pickup when there is 18" of snow on the ground and below zero temps by myself.
So much for bidding on that item!!


----------



## matthewsx

finsruskw said:


> Judging from what I paid for my Bison 3 jaw last year he Probably realized he had it way under priced for who knows what reason Typo maybe??!!


Doesn't matter why he priced it there, I'll take it all day long for that....

John


----------



## finsruskw

I hear that!!
Hope you do get it and are pleased with it as well.

My Shars quill stop just showed up this AM.


----------



## Papa Charlie

finsruskw said:


> Found out today compressor is in a basement in a house and there is no one available to unlock the house so I can look at it.
> 
> But, the good news, no charge for loading it as long as I do it myself??
> Yeah, right.
> I'm gonna want to fight a darned 600+ lb. A/C up out of a basement and get it into my pickup when there is 18" of snow on the ground and below zero temps by myself.
> So much for bidding on that item!!



Well look at the bright side, you won't be cold by the time you get that compressor out of the basement and the snow should help you slide it to the pickup once you get it out of the house.


----------



## G-ManBart

finsruskw said:


> Found out today compressor is in a basement in a house and there is no one available to unlock the house so I can look at it.
> 
> But, the good news, no charge for loading it as long as I do it myself??
> Yeah, right.
> I'm gonna want to fight a darned 600+ lb. A/C up out of a basement and get it into my pickup when there is 18" of snow on the ground and below zero temps by myself.
> So much for bidding on that item!!



Sometimes these auction folks don't use their heads....sheesh.  

All you have to do is drive to Michigan, I've got a nice Quincy QR-25 (pressure lubricated version) 80 gallon I'm going to sell soon for a reasonable price.  It's only 4-500 miles


----------



## finsruskw

*If those miles were the round trip   miles I'd be warming the truck up as I type*


----------



## Papa Charlie

G-ManBart said:


> Sometimes these auction folks don't use their heads....sheesh.
> 
> All you have to do is drive to Michigan, I've got a nice Quincy QR-25 (pressure lubricated version) 80 gallon I'm going to sell soon for a reasonable price.  It's only 4-500 miles



Well, I could leave now and get there about the time you plan to put it up for sale. No doubt it will go for much less than I would have to pay for one out here in my neck of the woods.

Watching a Kobalt and a Quincy on an auction near me. Still have 5 days to go and most of the bidding will be in the final hours of the auction. I like the Quincy QT5 but it is 5hp 3ph and 460V. The Kobalt AGM25 is 3.7hp 1ph and 230v. I would venture that both will go for almost retail.


----------



## finsruskw

Papa Charlie said:


> Well, I could leave now and get there about the time you plan to put it up for sale. No doubt it will go for much less than I would have to pay for one out here in my neck of the woods.
> 
> Watching a Kobalt and a Quincy on an auction near me. Still have 5 days to go and most of the bidding will be in the final hours of the auction. I like the Quincy QT5 but it is 5hp 3ph and 460V. The Kobalt AGM25 is 3.7hp 1ph and 230v. I would venture that both will go for almost retail.
> 
> View attachment 355251
> 
> View attachment 355252


Keep me posted, OK?
The one I was interested in on this auction was a quincy.


----------



## G-ManBart

Papa Charlie said:


> Well, I could leave now and get there about the time you plan to put it up for sale. No doubt it will go for much less than I would have to pay for one out here in my neck of the woods.
> 
> Watching a Kobalt and a Quincy on an auction near me. Still have 5 days to go and most of the bidding will be in the final hours of the auction. I like the Quincy QT5 but it is 5hp 3ph and 460V. The Kobalt AGM25 is 3.7hp 1ph and 230v. I would venture that both will go for almost retail.



Yeah, I couldn't believe I got the S-B as cheap as I did....usually I'm shocked at what good compressors go for at auction around here, even if they're 3phase.  Saylor-Beall is here in Michigan so lots of people are looking for them and the company is great to deal with so I guess I just got lucky.  The auction house is locally well known, but not on one of the big auction sites, so it may have flown beneath the radar.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Sometimes I think it would be good business to buy on the East Coast, if I could fill a semi, and then resell here on the West Coast. The prices they ask and get our here are ridiculous.

I had a friend back in the 80's that would buy used cars in California, fill a car carrier and resell them on the East Coast. Muscle cars from the salt free West Coast went for big money in the rusted out East Coast.


----------



## cdcava

Just put an offer in on Marketplace for a Bridgeport (1963) Series 2 J head in good shape (Comes with accessories like y axis DRO, vise, facemill, Lyndex collets, and some R8 tool holders. Nervous as this is my first offer on a mill! The drive wouldn't be too bad but loading and unloading it would definitely be a challenge.


----------



## Papa Charlie

cdcava said:


> Just put an offer in on Marketplace for a Bridgeport (1963) Series 2 J head in good shape (Comes with accessories like y axis DRO, vise, facemill, Lyndex collets, and some R8 tool holders. Nervous as this is my first offer on a mill! The drive wouldn't be too bad but loading and unloading it would definitely be a challenge.



Good luck, got my fingers crossed for you.


----------



## finsruskw

cdcava said:


> Just put an offer in on Marketplace for a Bridgeport (1963) Series 2 J head in good shape (Comes with accessories like y axis DRO, vise, facemill, Lyndex collets, and some R8 tool holders. Nervous as this is my first offer on a mill! The drive wouldn't be too bad but loading and unloading it would definitely be a challenge.


At lease you won't have to fight sub-zero temps and a foot and a half of snow (more this morning BTW!) to load it!!


----------



## Aaron_W

Papa Charlie said:


> Sometimes I think it would be good business to buy on the East Coast, if I could fill a semi, and then resell here on the West Coast. The prices they ask and get our here are ridiculous.
> 
> I had a friend back in the 80's that would buy used cars in California, fill a car carrier and resell them on the East Coast. Muscle cars from the salt free West Coast went for big money in the rusted out East Coast.



I think a better plan is to buy a large car trailer and then you could set up a rust free west coast car / truck exchange with a member on the East Coast who can score cheap machines. That way you are never running the trailer empty.


----------



## WobblyHand

Received a BS-0 dividing head yesterday from Precision Matthews.  This BS-0 was double boxed by PM.  It arrived quickly and was undamaged.  No muss, no fuss.  Kudos to PM!

Was quite the contrast from my first attempt at buying a BS-0 through a random eBay seller.  My first BS-0 had internal damage, a cracked cast iron bearing housing, which only could be found by a near full disassembly.  The BS-0 had been dropped, probably by the common carrier.  From the small hole in the box, one would never guess at the extent of the damage.  It was quite the experience fending off the ridiculous low-ball counter-offers from that seller. Persistence and determination resulted in a complete refund.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Aaron_W said:


> I think a better plan is to buy a large car trailer and then you could set up a rust free west coast car / truck exchange with a member on the East Coast who can score cheap machines. That way you are never running the trailer empty.


Thought about that, but it would take more than a car carrier to make it a profitable situation. Semi with flat bed or even low boy would be better. That iron gets real heavy with only a couple of machines. You have to have the truck full also. That most likely will require paying storage until you get all he equipment you need. Now you have added additional rigging charges to pick up the iron from the auction and then set it in the warehouse. You could just keep loading up the truck until it was full but still need a place for it. Then of course you need a place to put it once you are on the West Coast until you sell it.

Add on insurance, fuel, permits, rigging, cranes, etc. Gets real expensive very fast.


----------



## finsruskw

Plus Ya gotta tarp and tie down all that stuff.
Done  TONS and more tons  of that kinda stuff back in the day and don't want no more part of it!!


----------



## Aaron_W

Papa Charlie said:


> Thought about that, but it would take more than a car carrier to make it a profitable situation. Semi with flat bed or even low boy would be better. That iron gets real heavy with only a couple of machines. You have to have the truck full also. That most likely will require paying storage until you get all he equipment you need. Now you have added additional rigging charges to pick up the iron from the auction and then set it in the warehouse. You could just keep loading up the truck until it was full but still need a place for it. Then of course you need a place to put it once you are on the West Coast until you sell it.
> 
> Add on insurance, fuel, permits, rigging, cranes, etc. Gets real expensive very fast.



It is the same problem Cramer and Newman tried to game with the $0.10 MI bottle deposit.


----------



## DavidR8

Not really shop related but I broke down and bought a new (well refurbished) laptop.
My Macbook Pro is struggling to keep up with PhotoShop, LightRoom and Fusion360.
Went with a Dell Precision M4800 Laptop Intel Core i7 4810MQ 2.4GHz 32GB RAM 1TB SSD, 15.6" display with Windows 10 Pro.
That ought to run everything I need.


----------



## francist

DavidR8 said:


> Went with a Dell Precision M4800 Laptop Intel Core i7 4810MQ 2.4GHz 32GB RAM 1TB SSD, 15.6" display with Windows 10 Pro.


And I know what about three of those numbers mean.... 

-f


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> And I know what about three of those numbers mean....
> 
> -f


Oh I'm with you Frank... I'm only slightly educated on this stuff. Ican say that I've seen the Intel HQ in CA, and upgraded my Solid State Drive in my Macbook but only because I had step by step video instructions.


----------



## francist

I had the 15.6 part figured right off though, eh


----------



## Papa Charlie

DavidR8 said:


> Not really shop related but I broke down and bought a new (well refurbished) laptop.
> My Macbook Pro is struggling to keep up with PhotoShop, LightRoom and Fusion360.
> Went with a Dell Precision M4800 Laptop Intel Core i7 4810MQ 2.4GHz 32GB RAM 1TB SSD, 15.6" display with Windows 10 Pro.
> That ought to run everything I need.



Nice Dave, I have to update my laptop as well. It is so slow that I can't run OnShape any more, ever since I upgraded from Win 7 to Win 10. Win 10 uses too much of my processor and video system.

You say you purchased a refurbished laptop. Where did you get it. I really don't want to drop $1500 on a new one.


----------



## Braeden P

The bigger the numbers the better the computer!


----------



## brino

Braeden P said:


> The bigger the numbers the better the computer!



I've got an 8086 I'll sell ya!  

-brino


----------



## Braeden P

brino said:


> I've got an 8086 I'll sell ya!
> 
> -brino


That’s from 1979!


----------



## brino

Braeden P said:


> That’s from 1979!



So I guess you don't remember it then Braeden..........


----------



## Braeden P

brino said:


> So I guess you don't remember it then Braeden..........


But the internet does...


----------



## Braeden P

Duplicate post


----------



## Superburban

Hard to imagine that I used to think a dot matrix printer was fast. or a dasiy wheel printer was the best.


----------



## brino

Superburban said:


> Hard to imagine that I used to think a dot matrix printer was fast. or a dasiy wheel printer was the best.


Either one sure beats chiselling into a stone tablet......
-brino


----------



## FOMOGO

But, when you chisel into stone, you don't have to worry about it peeling off or running out of ink. Grok no like change cartridge, uug! Mike


----------



## Papa Charlie

FOMOGO said:


> But, when you chisel into stone, you don't have to worry about it peeling off or running out of ink. Grok no like change cartridge, uug! Mike



For corrections, mix cement well, fill in ooops and wait to dry before continuing chisel work.


----------



## slodat

I bought this Engineers Black Book after seeing it in one of Adam Booth’s videos. 






Highly recommended! There’s a section that shows what inserts work in the different standard holders. 






This was super helpful in finding inserts and tool holders at good prices.


----------



## Aukai

I used to carry my girlfriends tablets in high school oooffff....


----------



## KevinM

brino said:


> I've got an 8086 I'll sell ya!
> 
> -brino



8008?
6502?


----------



## DavidR8

Papa Charlie said:


> Nice Dave, I have to update my laptop as well. It is so slow that I can't run OnShape any more, ever since I upgraded from Win 7 to Win 10. Win 10 uses too much of my processor and video system.
> 
> You say you purchased a refurbished laptop. Where did you get it. I really don't want to drop $1500 on a new one.



I got it at Best Buy. It was marked down from $1200 to $900. 
I’d seen them before in the store and timed the form factor. 
One thing that I like is that it has a built in numeric keypad. Handy for be because I do a lot of spreadsheet work for a non-profit school. 
But the primary reason I bought it was because my MacBook was really struggling with Fusion 360 and I want to build a CNC router. For that I want to use Mach4 which is PC only. 
I looked at running a dual-boot system on my MacBook but the software alone was $300. 
I may sell the MacBook


----------



## Papa Charlie

Thanks for the information. Will have to watch to see what they have.


----------



## pontiac428

"Refurbished" has a very loose definition on eBay.  One guy said he refurbished laptops by wiping them with isopropyl alcohol.  I'd be more concerned with dried out thermal interface material or dust plugging up the cooling system.  Either way, the 4th gen mobile i7 should do what you ask out of it.  As long as you don't ask for Siri.


----------



## DavidR8

Papa Charlie said:


> Do they advertise the Refurbished or are they something that is hit or miss when you happen to come in?



They are marked either new, open box or refurbished. 
We’ve bought refurbished laptops before and had very good experiences so that’s part of the reason I went that way.


----------



## KevinM

How to refurbish a computer:

1) Wipe hard disk, install operating system.
2) Clean screen
3) Blow dust off of easily accessed parts.
4) Add 35% to selling price.


----------



## Janderso

Over the weekend I decided to add another way to cut sheet metal. I already have the pneumatic scissor type
Hopefully it's adequate. I would like to find a Beverly shear.
I tried it out 
It cuts super smooth straight lines.
I was looking to cut clean lines in the corners when making a box
You know, tabs and clearance lines are critical


----------



## Janderso

pontiac428 said:


> "Refurbished" has a very loose definition on eBay.  One guy said he refurbished laptops by wiping them with isopropyl alcohol.  I'd be more concerned with dried out thermal interface material or dust plugging up the cooling system.  Either way, the 4th gen mobile i7 should do what you ask out of it.  As long as you don't ask for Siri.


Included in many of my duties, I'm the IT guy at work. I support over 30 PC's. I tried some refurbished desk tops once. That didn't work out.


----------



## Aukai

What gage metal will that shear? I looked that one up, it will do 18G.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Janderso said:


> Included in many of my duties, I'm the IT guy at work. I support over 30 PC's. I tried some refurbished desk tops once. That didn't work out.



I just went onto Dell's website and they have a huge selection of Weekly specials. Brand new units. I can get almost exactly what I want for about $800. Not in a hurry and still trying to decide.


----------



## matthewsx

Papa Charlie said:


> Nice Dave, I have to update my laptop as well. It is so slow that I can't run OnShape any more, ever since I upgraded from Win 7 to Win 10. Win 10 uses too much of my processor and video system.
> 
> You say you purchased a refurbished laptop. Where did you get it. I really don't want to drop $1500 on a new one.


Lots of good deals on refurbished machines out there. As an IT Professional I can tell you we try to retire systems after they are 3 years old or warranty expires. I buy my refurbished PC's from New Egg









						refurbished | Newegg.com
					

Search Newegg.com for refurbished. Get fast shipping and top-rated customer service.




					www.newegg.com
				




Refurbished Apple stuff straight from them 

https://www.apple.com/shop/refurbished 

Or OWC









						Used, Refurbished and New Apple Laptops, Desktops and More
					

Browse through our wide selection of new and refurbished Macs professionally tested and inspected by OWC. All Macs include a 90-day limited OWC warranty.




					eshop.macsales.com
				





John


----------



## Ianagos

I went over to a shop to pickup some specialty holders for my new machine that I’ll show here another day and they had a few other things to get rid of.

Sold me 2 Kurt 6” vises for $20 each

And I got a tooling cabinet for a steal
It’s a vidmar style but made by a brand that starts with an R

Came with some random stuff in it that I may use but I really just wanted the cabinet.

I got a bunch of other stuff too


----------



## hman

Wowsers!  Major suckage indicated here.


----------



## Thanatos41

Nothing exciting, Drill America stubby drill set and a deburring tool.


----------



## BGHansen

KevinM said:


> 8008?
> 6502?


I still have a couple of TRS-80 computers (a model I and a model III) with Z-80 chips (and a Qume daisy wheel printer).  I think the 4004 was first, then the 8008, then the 8080, then the Z-80?  The Altair 8800 with an 8080 processor was all the rage in the mid-70's.  I recall Altair also offering a machine with a Motorola chip (6800?) that predated the 6502 of Apple ][ and Commodore 64 fame.  I bought the Model I TRS-80 in February, 1978.  Brings back some old memories programming in assembly code back in the day.  Google "Bruce Hansen TRS-80 TASMON".  That was a machine language monitor program I wrote in around 1981.  It was for debugging assembly/machine code programs.  REAL geek stuff.  I was such a nerd. . . .

Bruce


----------



## john.oliver35

Braeden P said:


> That’s from 1979!


Industry work-horse until around '86.   All the way up to 8MHz!


----------



## Janderso

BGHansen said:


> I still have a couple of TRS-80 computers (a model I and a model III) with Z-80 chips (and a Qume daisy wheel printer).  I think the 4004 was first, then the 8008, then the 8080, then the Z-80?  The Altair 8800 with an 8080 processor was all the rage in the mid-70's.  I recall Altair also offering a machine with a Motorola chip (6800?) that predated the 6502 of Apple ][ and Commodore 64 fame.  I bought the Model I TRS-80 in February, 1978.  Brings back some old memories programming in assembly code back in the day.  Google "Bruce Hansen TRS-80 TASMON".  That was a machine language monitor program I wrote in around 1981.  It was for debugging assembly/machine code programs.  REAL geek stuff.  I was such a nerd. . . .
> 
> Bruce


We have some friends that kept their Apple II GS. It was on a hall desk so as you walk in it was visible to all. It still worked at the time.
They lost everything in the Camp fire too.
I wonder what computers will look like in 20 years??


----------



## 7milesup

slodat said:


> I bought this Engineers Black Book after seeing it in one of Adam Booth’s videos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Highly recommended! There’s a section that shows what inserts work in the different standard holders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was super helpful in finding inserts and tool holders at good prices.


Could you post a few pages on either side of those? 

J/K


----------



## 7milesup

Ianagos said:


> I went over to a shop to pickup some specialty holders for my new machine that I’ll show here another day and they had a few other things to get rid of.
> 
> Sold me 2 Kurt 6” vises for $20 each
> 
> And I got a tooling cabinet for a steal
> It’s a vidmar style but made by a brand that starts with an R
> 
> Came with some random stuff in it that I may use but I really just wanted the cabinet.
> 
> I got a bunch of other stuff too


Ok.  You know the rules....Pictures!


----------



## 7milesup

I plan on starting a thread about this once it gets here next week.  Hoping the shipping company doesn't wreck it...

Eisen 1440E.  3 phase.


----------



## Ianagos

7milesup said:


> Ok. You know the rules....Pictures!



The kurts are not great shape but much better than I see most of the ones I see sell for 200$ on eBay and whatnot. I don’t have a picture at the moment. The stuff in the brown cardboard box is what I went for. I paid a lot for those. They are km63xmz tool holders for my new lathe. 

I’ll show some pictures of the lathe when it comes in a few weeks.


----------



## 7milesup

Ianagos said:


> The kurts are not great shape but much better than I see most of the ones I see sell for 200$ on eBay and whatnot. I don’t have a picture at the moment. The stuff in the brown cardboard box is what I went for. I paid a lot for those. They are km63xmz tool holders for my new lathe.
> 
> I’ll show some pictures of the lathe when it comes in a few weeks.


WOW!!!  Just WOW.  

Good for you!   Those cabinets....  I have one but would love two more.  

I will admit that I do not know what the chucks are for in your second picture.  You mentioned lathe?  CNC lathe maybe?


----------



## Janderso

Ianagos said:


> The kurts are not great shape but much better than I see most of the ones I see sell for 200$ on eBay and whatnot. I don’t have a picture at the moment. The stuff in the brown cardboard box is what I went for. I paid a lot for those. They are km63xmz tool holders for my new lathe.
> 
> I’ll show some pictures of the lathe when it comes in a few weeks.


Ah, what's in the box?


----------



## Aukai

That haul is never gonna happen here, wow, amazing.


----------



## Papa Charlie

finsruskw said:


> Keep me posted, OK?
> The one I was interested in on this auction was a quincy.



Sent you the info on the auction via Conversation. 

Here is the link if anyone else is interested.









						CHAMPION AND ASSOCIATES INC - ONLINE AUCTION | James G. Murphy Co.
					

Buy At Auction. MILWAUKEE, JANCY SLUGGER USA5000, JANCY SLUGGER JHM-USA5, ALFRA ROTABEST MICRO 32/50, ALFRA ROTABEST MINI 36/50, HOUGEN HMD-150, LOT, ASSORTED HOUGEN MAG DRILL CUTTER BITS IN, LOT, ASSORTED MAG DRILL BITS IN THESE BINS &, TENNSMITH HBH4816, PEXTO 622-E, WHITNEY 2, VS, AIR SYSTEMS...




					murphyauction.hibid.com


----------



## Ianagos

Inbought this Chuck for those collets shown earlier.

I got a lot more than I showed but I’ll get picture later.







The holders are kennametal km63xmz tool holders for er25 collets. 
Similar to hsk 63 but more proprietary.

They are big bucks






Those are some that came with the lathe.


----------



## 7milesup

Papa Charlie said:


> Sent you the info on the auction via Conversation.
> 
> Here is the link if anyone else is interested.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CHAMPION AND ASSOCIATES INC - ONLINE AUCTION | James G. Murphy Co.
> 
> 
> Buy At Auction. MILWAUKEE, JANCY SLUGGER USA5000, JANCY SLUGGER JHM-USA5, ALFRA ROTABEST MICRO 32/50, ALFRA ROTABEST MINI 36/50, HOUGEN HMD-150, LOT, ASSORTED HOUGEN MAG DRILL CUTTER BITS IN, LOT, ASSORTED MAG DRILL BITS IN THESE BINS &, TENNSMITH HBH4816, PEXTO 622-E, WHITNEY 2, VS, AIR SYSTEMS...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> murphyauction.hibid.com


I just browsed through there on the first page.  Crikey, you guys must like your tools out there.  I thought auctions were expensive here...


----------



## finsruskw

Looks like a lot of nice clean equipment.


----------



## Moderatemixed

Best week in I don’t know how long.... I got a brand new Tormach 5 inch CNC vice that will replace the Autowell 4 inch on my mill and a Rahn Repeat O Meter, brand new in the box...... Thanks to the Canadian Hobby Metalworkers Forum and Kijiji. It’s been an incredible week. And thanks to a very good guy, all the stuff I bought on eBay over the last 12 months that has been stuck at the US/Can border is now in Canada. 






















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gaffer

BGHansen said:


> I still have a couple of TRS-80 computers (a model I and a model III) with Z-80 chips (and a Qume daisy wheel printer).  I think the 4004 was first, then the 8008, then the 8080, then the Z-80?  The Altair 8800 with an 8080 processor was all the rage in the mid-70's.  I recall Altair also offering a machine with a Motorola chip (6800?) that predated the 6502 of Apple ][ and Commodore 64 fame.  I bought the Model I TRS-80 in February, 1978.  Brings back some old memories programming in assembly code back in the day.  Google "Bruce Hansen TRS-80 TASMON".  That was a machine language monitor program I wrote in around 1981.  It was for debugging assembly/machine code programs.  REAL geek stuff.  I was such a nerd. . . .
> 
> Bruce


I had a Trash 80 in 1983. Bought it used and learned Basic on it. I think my next computer was an 8088, but I've lost track.


----------



## ChrisAttebery

The oil filter was stuck on my son’s car. Whoever changed the oil last cranked the filter down. I tried a few tricks but decided that we’d just go to Ace and buy the biggest Channel Lock pliers we could find. Apparently 16.5” is the answer. They will open to 3.75”. That’ll do.






I received a box of goodies that I bought the other day. $15 Helios 6” dial caliper, $30 Johnson Gage .00025 dial indicator, $10 Starett 154-B adjustable parallel, $10 import bench block. 

















I bought this General No. 166 tap handle for $10 the other day. It had a light patina of rust but a little WD40 and steel wool cleaned them right up. This is the smoothest tightening tap handle I’ve ever used. 










And last but not least I finally received the NIB Renishaw MP3 probe head for my mill. 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hman

Moderatemixed -​The indicator on your Repeat-o-Meter looked kinda familiar.  So I zoomed in on the image ... and indeed, it's a Mahr.  I have a couple of these, and was speculating that they'd be well suited for such a task.  Congratulations on your score!


----------



## Papa Charlie

7milesup said:


> I just browsed through there on the first page.  Crikey, you guys must like your tools out there.  I thought auctions were expensive here...


This is why the prices I see on equipment in the Midwest and East Coast drive me nuts and my comment about shipping equipment to the West Coast for resale. People out here are absolutely nuts with the prices the charge and more over get. Those bids you saw are only the top of the ice burg, they will increase dramatically by the close of the auction today.


----------



## Papa Charlie

@Moderatemixed Fantastic score, congratulations. Those Repeat-O-Meter's are expensive. Essential if you have to ensure your surface plate is meeting certification for work you are doing, identify areas of the plate to avoid, or if you intend to go into the resurfacing business.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought another of these CXA tool holder organizers. I already have some, and they are great.

I also bought an Aloris CXA #1 as well as a CXA #2 tool holder. You never seem to have enough tool holders.







You can find these on eBay by searching “Lathe Quick Change Tool Holder Organizer, Rack  AXA----- BXA & CXA AVAILABLE”.


----------



## WobblyHand

Received a new Niagara carbide 1/2 x 1/2 x 1 x 3 end mill.  I had bought a 1/4" Niagara and liked how it cut a lot, so I found this 1/2" one on eBay. Included in the box was also a tube labeled 3/8 x 3/8 x 1 x 2.5 carbide Niagara square end mill.  I think they just threw it in my box, because the cutter didn't match the label on the tube.  The end mill is only 2" long with a 1/2" LOC and it isn't carbide, just uncoated steel, marked Niagara.  It doesn't even look quite "new".  The tips aren't as sharp as I'd expect.  No receipt, just was in the box.  Not complaining, as it was free, but it is a little weird. I'll try it, but not expecting that much of it.  

Can't find anything close to this stubby cutter in the Niagara Cutters catalog.  Guessing it's cobalt.  It is straight shank.  If I add straight shank filter to the search, there are no hits. Markings are "Niagara 85526" and "3/8 USA L145".  The shank has an odd flat on the shank opposite to the logo. The flat does not look like it came from the factory.  (No factory would let it out the door.) The shank end also looks ground to a large chamfer.  This looks like a modified and used customer end mill that was returned, possibly substituted for the real, more expensive carbide end mill.  Supplier got stuck with it and sent it to a random person (me) just to get rid of it.  Still think getting a used, modified end mill that I didn't order is a bit strange...


----------



## Ianagos

As promised here are pictures of the $20 Kurt vises.

I honestly think it’s crazy how much people pay for these thing and I wasn’t really willing to pay much more for them as I think Kurt subpar to some other brands.











They are d675s and they are real kurts not knockoffs

There’s a chick double vise that got thrown in the deal too but it’s pretty torn up.


----------



## Ianagos

WobblyHand said:


> Received a new Niagara carbide 1/2 x 1/2 x 1 x 3 end mill. I had bought a 1/4" Niagara and liked how it cut a lot, so I found this 1/2" one on eBay. Included in the box was also a tube labeled 3/8 x 3/8 x 1 x 2.5 carbide Niagara square end mill. I think they just threw it in my box, because the cutter didn't match the label on the tube. The end mill is only 2" long with a 1/2" LOC and it isn't carbide, just uncoated steel, marked Niagara. It doesn't even look quite "new". The tips aren't as sharp as I'd expect. No receipt, just was in the box. Not complaining, as it was free, but it is a little weird. I'll try it, but not expecting that much of it.
> 
> Can't find anything close to this stubby cutter in the Niagara Cutters catalog. Guessing it's cobalt. It is straight shank. If I add straight shank filter to the search, there are no hits. Markings are "Niagara 85526" and "3/8 USA L145". The shank has an odd flat on the shank opposite to the logo. The flat does not look like it came from the factory. (No factory would let it out the door.) The shank end also looks ground to a large chamfer. This looks like a modified and used customer end mill that was returned, possibly substituted for the real, more expensive carbide end mill. Supplier got stuck with it and sent it to a random person (me) just to get rid of it. Still think getting a used, modified end mill that I didn't order is a bit strange...



I sell some tooling on eBay occasionally and I have so much random junk that’s not worth trying to sell I always throw some extra cutters in the bag. It’s always just oddball stuff but my hope is people appreciate it. I’d rather it go to someone who will use it even though carbide scrap is worth alot.


----------



## matthewsx

My chuck showed up today




Nice when an eBay seller knows how to pack stuff.




Definitely happy with this purchase, looks like it was barely used....




John


----------



## ChrisAttebery

I picked up this Paramo #5 machinist’s vise today. It must weigh 65 lbs. It’s a little dirty but it’s solid underneath. I cleaned it up in my parts washer. Now I need to get it mounted. 

Anyone know where to buy new jaws for old vises? These aren’t terrible but it would be nice to put a new set on it.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought two more Aloris CXA #1 tool holders. 

Also, I bought 10 WNMG331 inserts from Carbide Depot; I ordered their house brand, Carbi-Universal. I was talking to the guy at Carbide Depot, and he said that these inserts are made in Switzerland, and that they are just as good as Kennametal. They cost 57.4% less!







These are the Kennametal inserts that I have now. Even though they have 6 cutting sides, I must say that these are expensive for me now:


----------



## BGHansen

I've mentioned it before about my micrometer purchases, my preference is a mechanical digital style.  Grizzly used to sell this type of inside mic's from 0.2" - 1.2" and 1" - 2" for a reasonable price.  However, they dropped them a few years ago.  I've got the sets of Grizzly's at my two lathes and have a Fowler 0.2" - 1.2" at the Tormach.  This Fowler mechanical digital showed up on eBay for $85 delivered.  I'm an owner.

Bruce


The micrometer and standard were still in their shipping bag.



Yup, probably another measuring tool that'll go unused.  Our son is going to inherit some nice stuff some day. . .


----------



## DavidR8

Nothing terribly exciting. 
Water jet cut parts for my CNC plasma cutter build.





Breakout board for the Arduino Uno control board.


----------



## NCjeeper

Scored an original G&E shaper parts manual.


----------



## hotrats

At flea mkt today picked up a Starrett depth gauge, radius gauge, and metal drill size chart. Along with 2 HSS lathe cutters, and 2 NOGA indicator holder arms (had the mag bases) for a total of $20. I do have some rust to get off the Starrett gauges though...


----------



## hman

Major suckage!  Congrats


----------



## vtcnc

Fireball Tool 8” Mega Al.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Papa Charlie

vtcnc said:


> Fireball Tool 8” Mega Al.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Never seen these before. Went to website, very cool, will have to place at least one of these on the list.


----------



## 682bear

matthewsx said:


> My chuck showed up today
> 
> View attachment 356026
> 
> 
> Nice when an eBay seller knows how to pack stuff.
> 
> View attachment 356027
> 
> 
> Definitely happy with this purchase, looks like it was barely used....
> 
> View attachment 356028
> 
> 
> John



Did that come from rgbreezee? That looks like how he packs his items... definately well packed.

-Bear


----------



## Moderatemixed

I mentioned a few days ago that I scored a Rahn Repeat O Meter..... it arrived yesterday. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## vtcnc

Papa Charlie said:


> Never seen these before. Went to website, very cool, will have to place at least one of these on the list.


He has a great YouTube channel as well. That's how I found out about them.


----------



## Janderso

Moderatemixed said:


> I mentioned a few days ago that I scored a Rahn Repeat O Meter..... it arrived yesterday.


You don't seem all that excited about it.
I'm excited about it!


----------



## Janderso

I scored a belt sander. (free) Thanks Guy!
Went to Napa next door, grabbed new bearings, I need to mount the motor....
I think this little dolly is going to be handy as hell.


----------



## ChrisAttebery

I managed to break my 30+ year old 4" Harbor Freight vise a couple weeks ago. Instead of buying another import I decided to check CL and see if there was anything decent available. I found this Paramo No.5 Bench Vise. It must weigh 60 lbs. I cleaned it up and lubed the screw and slides with Permatex Anti-Seize. You can twirl the handle with one finger now.


----------



## Aukai

110.00 plus tax, free shipping, new in the box.


----------



## Janderso

Aukai said:


> 110.00 plus tax, free shipping, new in the box.
> View attachment 356915


MSC wants $218 plus shipping.
You got a deal.


----------



## Aukai

I kinda thought so too.


----------



## Suzuki4evr

Janderso said:


> I scored a belt sander. (free) Thanks Guy!
> Went to Napa next door, grabbed new bearings, I need to mount the motor....
> I think this little dolly is going to be handy as hell.


----------



## Suzuki4evr

Janderso said:


> I scored a belt sander. (free) Thanks Guy!
> Went to Napa next door, grabbed new bearings, I need to mount the motor....
> I think this little dolly is going to be handy as hell.


The topic is what did you BUY today......and that my friend is why you suck.


----------



## KevinM

Whoo doggies, this is the slickest set of C-clamps that I have ever seen.  They have a little knob for clamping really delicate stuff and another one that is knurled so that the vice-grips can get a really good grip.  They were a little expensive for just three,  at that price you would think that they would give you 2 each. I'll bet that the guy who packed this thing up wonders why his coffee was so bitter.  I used one of the sugars for my coffee and it wasn't much so I used the other 2 packs.  My wife makes the worst coffee.



Now this here lamp that I got for the front hallway is missing the plug and the bulb socket.  The switch is there so I guess that I can wire it up myself.  I wish that it had come with a shade.  It could come in handy as a weapon if a burglar came into the dark house.....  since the lamp doesn't work.



I am returning the defective stopwatch.


----------



## davidcarmichael

Aukai said:


> I kinda thought so too.


Still wildly overpriced.


----------



## slodat

davidcarmichael said:


> Still wildly overpriced.



+1 I've been tooling up a new to me lathe. I have a couple Aloris holders and the rest are imports from All Industrial. I can not see any way the Aloris holders are better. They do offer a lot of holders that others don't, like the 71 above. I bought one. It's a very nice holder. Not sure I see over $200 in it and I'm far from cheap.


----------



## Aukai

I have 15 generic holders, and 3 name brand, so far


----------



## slodat

I'm interested in knowing which, if any, name brand holders are must have or worth the cost? Like I said, I have a -71 and it is great.


----------



## Aukai

53, 4D, and the 71, so only 3, unless I find a box I forgot about.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought only a foot of 8” Schedule 40 pipe, and it was over $50!

This is for pipe welding practice. Make coupons on the lathe, weld it, and then do the same again with the same material by parting and boring.

This is not ideal because after doing this a few times the pipe will be made out of E6010 on the inside and E7018 on the outside.


----------



## extropic

erikmannie said:


> I bought only a foot of 8” Schedule 40 pipe, and it was over $50!
> 
> This is for pipe welding practice. Make coupons on the lathe, weld it, and then do the same again with the same material by parting and boring.
> 
> This is not ideal because after doing this a few times the pipe will be made out of E6010 on the inside and E7018 on the outside.
> 
> View attachment 356989


 I was shocked that 8" sched 40 pipe costs $50 a foot so I looked on McMaster-Carr for an easy reference.
OMG!  McMaster wants $458.21 for one foot.
It seems I'm out of touch with such things. I must be getting ancient.


----------



## FOMOGO

That's just nuts. Does anyone else get the feeling we are being bent over by corporate America taking advantage of the pandemic. Mike


----------



## extropic

FOMOGO said:


> That's just nuts. Does anyone else get the feeling we are being bent over by corporate America taking advantage of the pandemic. Mike


It would be interesting to see a chart of the Contractor price of 8" Black Pipe over time.


----------



## erikmannie

extropic said:


> It would be interesting to see a chart of the Contractor price of 8" Black Pipe over time.



I was buying 8”, and Sch 40 or Sch 80 would work for my purposes. In the yard of the LSS, I found a remnant of 8” Sch 80, and the remnant price of that was $57 per foot. I paid $40 for a foot of non-remnant 8” Sch 40 and $10 for the cut.


----------



## erikmannie

extropic said:


> I was shocked that 8" sched 40 pipe costs $50 a foot so I looked on McMaster-Carr for an easy reference.
> OMG!  McMaster wants $458.21 for one foot.
> It seems I'm out of touch with such things. I must be getting ancient.



As you probably know, my LSS sells by the pound for sheet, pipe, bar and the like. Length, girth & wall thickness add up fast.


----------



## erikmannie

slodat said:


> +1 I've been tooling up a new to me lathe. I have a couple Aloris holders and the rest are imports from All Industrial. I can not see any way the Aloris holders are better. They do offer a lot of holders that others don't, like the 71 above. I bought one. It's a very nice holder. Not sure I see over $200 in it and I'm far from cheap.



I use Aloris tool holders on my 16” lathe & Chinese tool holders on my 10” lathe. I have yet to notice any shortcomings in either type, including the set screws. This may be one of the cases where econo-import is A-okay.


----------



## extropic

erikmannie said:


> As you probably know, my LSS sells by the pound for sheet, pipe, bar and the like. Length, girth & wall thickness add up fast.



Please define "LSS".    

Relative to full retail, it seems that your $50 cost was a great deal.


----------



## erikmannie

extropic said:


> Please define "LSS".
> 
> Relative to full retail, it seems that your $50 cost was a great deal.



Local Steel Supply. I apologize for the cryptic acronym.

I have been going to the same place for 30 years. They are like family to me.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Janderso said:


> I scored a belt sander. (free) Thanks Guy!
> Went to Napa next door, grabbed new bearings, I need to mount the motor....
> I think this little dolly is going to be handy as hell.



Yup, some major suckage going on here.


----------



## DLF

Bosch D-Tect 120 wall scanner.

Not really machining related, but still a nice tool 









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Janderso

FOMOGO said:


> That's just nuts. Does anyone else get the feeling we are being bent over by corporate America taking advantage of the pandemic.


Lumber, 1/2" OSB use to be $7-$10. Home Depot wants $37 for 7/16"
Building a home in Northern CA costs >$300 a Sq. foot.
I got a bid to install 2 doors and 5 windows in a school portable type building. $52,000.
I was thinking $8,000-$10,000.
Yes, things are nuts. Absolutely nuts.
My wife wants to remodel the bathroom. Not a good time.


----------



## Peyton Price 17

Janderso said:


> Lumber, 1/2" OSB use to be $7-$10. Home Depot wants $37 for 7/16"
> Building a home in Northern CA costs >$300 a Sq. foot.
> I got a bid to install 2 doors and 5 windows in a school portable type building. $52,000.
> I was thinking $8,000-$10,000.
> Yes, things are nuts. Absolutely nuts.
> My wife wants to remodel the bathroom. Not a good time.


i can get it for $15 a sheet at lowes. lag bolts cost about $7 a piece. i like tractor supply for bolts and fastens.


----------



## Janderso

Peyton Price 17 said:


> i can get it for $15 a sheet at lowes. lag bolts cost about $7 a piece. i like tractor supply for bolts and fastens.


$36.35, 7/16" OSB, Lowes -Yuba City CA


----------



## Papa Charlie

Janderso said:


> Lumber, 1/2" OSB use to be $7-$10. Home Depot wants $37 for 7/16"
> Building a home in Northern CA costs >$300 a Sq. foot.
> I got a bid to install 2 doors and 5 windows in a school portable type building. $52,000.
> I was thinking $8,000-$10,000.
> Yes, things are nuts. Absolutely nuts.
> My wife wants to remodel the bathroom. Not a good time.



With us retiring in July of 2022, I am a bit worried that prices on mfg homes and steel buildings will have escalated beyond my budget. Still looking for the land, but it is a balancing act. If the home cost more, I can afford less land and so on. Land is going fast with all the Californians fleeing the state to Oregon. Still pieces pop up now and then. The ones that have been on the market for awhile, well, there is a reason.


----------



## Janderso

Papa Charlie said:


> With us retiring in July of 2022, I am a bit worried that prices on mfg homes and steel buildings will have escalated beyond my budget. Still looking for the land, but it is a balancing act. If the home cost more, I can afford less land and so on. Land is going fast with all the Californians fleeing the state to Oregon. Still pieces pop up now and then. The ones that have been on the market for awhile, well, there is a reason.


There are so many references to Californians leaving the state and the mass exodus of businesses moving out.
You would think the Governor and those in power, would make it a more business friendly place but not a chance.
Homes go for a very high price, people take their bag of money and elevate the values of surrounding states by paying too much for your land PaPa.
Retiring is exciting and scary at the same time.
Can we afford it? 
I've been investing for a long time in a strong market (paying too much for shares)
In a perfect world, stocks and funds go up in the retirement years


----------



## BGHansen

Menards in Lansing, MI, $25.32 a sheet with the 11% rebate. I did my shop walls in 7/16 OSB probably 20 years ago.  Paid $7.50 a sheet for 40 sheets.  I usually use 2 x 4 x 8' prices as a quick judge of current rates.  I recall them being $2 a stick.  Spotted owls were endangered in OR or WA when we built our house in 1993.  I recall the lumber package including $2.70 2 x 4 x 92 5/8" pre-cuts.  Just checked our local Menards:  $6 a pop.  Any idea what's got lumber prices so high?  Some internet articles (reliable sources?) says it's because mills were shut down early in the pandemic but big-box stores were open.  DIY'ers were home doing projects and used up the lumber supply.  Prices are expected to drop once supply catches up with demand.

Bruce


----------



## francist

DLF said:


> Bosch D-Tect 120 wall scanner.
> 
> Not really machining related, but still a nice tool


Agreed! Do you have a specific task for the instrument or just liking it on spec?

Reason I ask is I often have need for non-invasive exploration and/or determination of possible concealed pipes and things in walls or floors. I’ve had some professional GPR done as well as pachometer mapping, both with mixed results. Just wondering if you’ve had experience with yours or could comment on its accuracy / effectiveness?

-frank


----------



## Janderso

BGHansen said:


> Menards in Lansing, MI, $25.32 a sheet with the 11% rebate. I did my shop walls in 7/16 OSB probably 20 years ago.  Paid $7.50 a sheet for 40 sheets.  I usually use 2 x 4 x 8' prices as a quick judge of current rates.  I recall them being $2 a stick.  Spotted owls were endangered in OR or WA when we built our house in 1993.  I recall the lumber package including $2.70 2 x 4 x 92 5/8" pre-cuts.  Just checked our local Menards:  $6 a pop.  Any idea what's got lumber prices so high?  Some internet articles (reliable sources?) says it's because mills were shut down early in the pandemic but big-box stores were open.  DIY'ers were home doing projects and used up the lumber supply.  Prices are expected to drop once supply catches up with demand.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> View attachment 357048


Demand is pushing it up. They can charge it because we'll use it.
In our area, 15,000 homes and businesses burnt down.
Between Santa Rosa, Redding and Paradise, it's probably more like 20,000.
Contractors are giving bids with a 30 day limit due to ever changing prices.


----------



## DLF

francist said:


> Agreed! Do you have a specific task for the instrument or just liking it on spec?
> 
> Reason I ask is I often have need for non-invasive exploration and/or determination of possible concealed pipes and things in walls or floors. I’ve had some professional GPR done as well as pachometer mapping, both with mixed results. Just wondering if you’ve had experience with yours or could comment on its accuracy / effectiveness?
> 
> -frank



I have some home renovation coming up where I will have to tear down half a brick wall and there is electric wiring and piping within so I must first locate them.

And the tool is nice because it can also detect plastic pipes, so it will make the work much easier.

I can not comment upon accuracy, but I made a quick test and it just works.

Also the specs mention radar technology, so it must be accurate.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> Agreed! Do you have a specific task for the instrument or just liking it on spec?
> 
> Reason I ask is I often have need for non-invasive exploration and/or determination of possible concealed pipes and things in walls or floors. I’ve had some professional GPR done as well as pachometer mapping, both with mixed results. Just wondering if you’ve had experience with yours or could comment on its accuracy / effectiveness?
> 
> -frank


Frank, who have you had do GPR work locally?


----------



## Suzuki4evr

Janderso said:


> I scored a belt sander. (free) Thanks Guy!
> Went to Napa next door, grabbed new bearings, I need to mount the motor....
> I think this little dolly is going to be handy as hell.


Jeff,I just want to make it clear that I hope you know I was only joking with you when I put the "You suck" sign up. I saw your "wow" reaction on my comment and thought I might have offended you. So if I did then I apologize. I am still jealous about your score though.


----------



## Janderso

Suzuki4evr said:


> So if I did then I apologize. I am still jealous about your score though.


Sniff,
I'm still a little raw.
No problem.
You think I suck?, You should see the deals Bruce gets!!


----------



## vtcnc

Janderso said:


> Sniff,
> I'm still a little raw.
> No problem.
> You think I suck?, You should see the deals Bruce gets!!


I'm pretty sure all involved are in on the joke....however, for those that are new to the forum, it should be made clear to all reading this - "You Suck" is about the best compliment you can get on the forum when you gloat over the awesome deals you post online. Everyone is just jealous and we all know it. So "You Suck" is high praise. Just so everyone knows...


----------



## vtcnc

FOMOGO said:


> That's just nuts. Does anyone else get the feeling we are being bent over by corporate America taking advantage of the pandemic in general for the past few decades? Mike


Fixed that for you.


----------



## Superburban

BGHansen said:


> Menards in Lansing, MI, $25.32 a sheet with the 11% rebate. I did my shop walls in 7/16 OSB probably 20 years ago.  Paid $7.50 a sheet for 40 sheets.  I usually use 2 x 4 x 8' prices as a quick judge of current rates.  I recall them being $2 a stick.  Spotted owls were endangered in OR or WA when we built our house in 1993.  I recall the lumber package including $2.70 2 x 4 x 92 5/8" pre-cuts.  Just checked our local Menards:  $6 a pop.  Any idea what's got lumber prices so high?  Some internet articles (reliable sources?) says it's because mills were shut down early in the pandemic but big-box stores were open.  DIY'ers were home doing projects and used up the lumber supply.  Prices are expected to drop once supply catches up with demand.
> 
> Bruce


Do not know if they still do, or if it was by location, but 30 years ago when I worked for Lowes, 2x4's were a loss leader item, we lost some money on each one, but they figured it was an item that people use to judge prices, so we made sure to have the lowest price.


----------



## francist

DavidR8 said:


> who have you had do GPR work locally?


Hey David. I used Island Scanning just last year for some GPR on a concrete over wood floor. Very nice guy (whose name escapes me at the moment, of course!) but I think he’s pretty much a one man show anyway. He has a couple GPR units depending on what you’re after. I _think_ he may do other methods as well but may be mistaken. Prior to him and quite some years ago now I had Terrascan Geophysics for terrain GPR and electric resistance mapping. Also Levelton for pachometer mapping again on a concrete floor but they’re long gone I think.

I like the idea of having a small handheld unit to play with though, sometimes you find things that get missed. A lot of the success can come from knowing your instrument and dedicating the time to a thorough approach.

-f


----------



## DavidR8

francist said:


> Hey David. I used Island Scanning just last year for some GPR on a concrete over wood floor. Very nice guy (whose name escapes me at the moment, of course!) but I think he’s pretty much a one man show anyway. He has a couple GPR units depending on what you’re after. I _think_ he may do other methods as well but may be mistaken. Prior to him and quite some years ago now I had Terrascan Geophysics for terrain GPR and electric resistance mapping. Also Levelton for pachometer mapping again on a concrete floor but they’re long gone I think.
> 
> I like the idea of having a small handheld unit to play with though, sometimes you find things that get missed. A lot of the success can come from knowing your instrument and dedicating the time to a thorough approach.
> 
> -f


Thanks Frank, we live on a lot that was previously a dairy farm. In the process of renovating the yard we've excavated (by hand no less) about 2 tons of concrete and asphalt that was buried about 8-10" under the surface. It would be great to know what other surprises await us


----------



## JRaut

I got two new machines delivered today!!

One is a Rose Engine and the other is a Straight Line Engine (pardon the messy garage).

Both were made by F. A. Hall in Providence, RI. No dates or anything, but some internet sleuthing and some of the serials numbers I've preliminarily found on the machines suggest they were made in about 1905.

They're sort of esoteric machines, nearly lost to time. They almost never come up for sale, so I jumped at the opportunity. Didn't get 'you suck' pricing, but I got a decent deal. I bought them in Massachusetts and had them crated up and shipped to me in Minneapolis. That wasn't cheap.

Anyway, I've been interested in these machines for a number of years now. They're primarily used to decorate / guilloche watch dials, and somewhat in clockmaking. I, quite frankly, haven't all that much interest in making watch dials. But I find the machines themselves super interesting.

So I suspect what I'll end up doing with them is:
(1) strip them down and clean them up really well,
(2) repair / replace broken parts and pieces,
(3) paint and finish them off,
(4) play around with them for a while, and
(5) eventually sell them off to someone who plans on using them.

This'll no doubt take a good few years; maybe half a decade.

Maybe I'll make a separate restoration thread for them.

Anyone have a Rose Engine or Straight Line Engine? A quick search on H-M.com pegged a few folks with some interest.


----------



## Badabinski

Got these nifty drawer organizers off of McMaster. They're a bit expensive, but I'm a terribly disorganized person so they'll be really nice. Plus, they work like a lego set so that's pretty cool.


----------



## francist

JRaut said:


> One is a Rose Engine and the other is a Straight Line Engine


Yup, you’ve got yourself a nice challenge there. I certainly don’t have either although I’ve seen one or two videos on them working. Fascinating alright. Hope you do put up some separate posts on them when you get there, and good luck with the project. 

-frank


----------



## hman

JRaut said:


> Anyone have a Rose Engine or Straight Line Engine? A quick search on H-M.com pegged a few folks with some interest.


I used to live in Oregon, went "snowbirding" to Arizona in 2008 soon after I retired, got reacquainted with a woodturner friend in Phoenix, whom I'd known from years previous in Oregon.  She'd heard about a rose engine "kit" that Jon Magill (of Whidbey Island, WA) was selling, and she asked me if I'd like to build one up for her.  This project was what led me buy my very first machine tools (HF mini-mill and Grizzly 9x20 lathe)! 

After building (and adding a bunch of new features to) her rose engine, I got requests for two more, which I built up and sold a year later.  Photo below.  Interested in the genre, I found several articles and descriptions of early rose engines.  Many of them are absolutely fantastic works of art!  I'm a metalworker/tinkerer ... by no means a woodturner or wood artist.  But I sincerely admire the craft.  The second photo below is a test piece I did on the completed rose engine, just to show myself what could be done with the two basic rosettes (cams, to all you machinists) that were included with Magill's kit.


----------



## erikmannie

One foot of 10” Schedule 40 black pipe for only $43 out the door!

They didn’t have a remnant so they had to use the forklift to bring a full length to cut off just a foot.


----------



## Papa Charlie

@erikmannie 

Interesting purchase, what is the project?


----------



## erikmannie

Papa Charlie said:


> @erikmannie
> 
> Interesting purchase, what is the project?



Pipe welding coupons. Two of my favorite things to do are working on a lathe and stick welding.

I have also been curious what the size limitations of my 16 X 60 lathe are. I found one yesterday: chucking up a 10.75” OD workpiece will interfere with the cross slide by 3/16” so I had to extend out my compound all the way AND I would need extended tool holders (see photos) to part to lengths greater than 2.8”.




I had thought that the type of extended tool holder shown below would help with this, but it would not.







Maybe one day I will fab a mirror image of that, but it wouldn’t be so rigid with a parting tool way at the end.

I suppose at some point we part pipe or tubing from the inside. That ought to go really smoothly when the part pops of and wants to fall on the boring bar.


----------



## GreatOldOne

Stuff that's arrived in the last couple of weeks:

Nippy vise (already rebuilt)


An actual real-life Noga indicator holder - they seem to be rare beasts over here in the UK. It's only a little one though, but ye gods it's so much better than the cheapo 'import' stuff I've been using (technically it being Israeli, It's an import as well. )


A Tesa 40-50mm bore mic to round out my collection (all the way from the US of A)




A Noga reverse countersink tool (Had to have one after seeing one on blondiehacks)


And a Mitutoyo mic stand.


----------



## ChrisAttebery

I picked up a B+S BesTest .0001 DTI in really nice shape with the original leather box and a few accessories


----------



## Braeden P

Just bought a oil dauber for my tr 59 these are extremely rare and it will arrive soon here the picture from ebay


----------



## Aukai

There goes this weeks allowance


----------



## hman

Is it an original, or an aftermarket?  I recall seeing aftermarket daubers in the distant past, sold by an outfit called Alisam.  Yours doesn't look like the one Alisam sells, so it's probably original.  Great score!




__





						Knockout Bars and daubers for the machinist
					

Save the inside of your lathe's spindle from marring while removing collets, centers or sleeves



					www.alisam.com


----------



## Braeden P

hman said:


> Is it an original, or an aftermarket?  I recall seeing aftermarket daubers in the distant past, sold by an outfit called Alisam.  Yours doesn't look like the one Alisam sells, so it's probably original.  Great score!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knockout Bars and daubers for the machinist
> 
> 
> Save the inside of your lathe's spindle from marring while removing collets, centers or sleeves
> 
> 
> 
> www.alisam.com


That is the original one they are very rare there is only a few known


----------



## Fermic

While ago before getting my first lathe, I snagged some deals on evilbay

Both USSR-made dials for total of $35 ( $55 with shipping ), one is 0.002 mm and other one is 0.01 mm with various tips of different lengths :
	

		
			
		

		
	





Old Fowler 250 mm / 10 inch height gauge with a missing scribe holder ( I am looking for the right one, suggest me one ) :


----------



## Suzuki4evr

Braeden P said:


> Just bought a oil dauber for my tr 59 these are extremely rare and it will arrive soon here the picture from ebay


Sorry but I have never seen or heard about this device. Is it some kind of reservoir oiler or how do you use it?


----------



## Braeden P

On a lathe tailstock there is a hole on the backside for oil and you put the oil in then put that in


----------



## Steve-F

Fermic, can you post the dimensions of the scribe holder post, I might have one:>)


----------



## brino

Suzuki4evr said:


> Sorry but I have never seen or heard about this device. Is it some kind of reservoir oiler or how do you use it?





Braeden P said:


> On a lathe tailstock there is a hole on the backside for oil and you put the oil in then put that in



Back in the days when using a dead centre in the tailstock you needed to manage the friction. Many old tailstocks have an extra little hole that is really a reservoir and it is capped with a "dauber" to keep chips out of the lubricant and to apply it to the centre hole.

The lubricant used was typically a white lead paste.

Most daubers are long gone on used lathes......

-brino


----------



## Papa Charlie

I had to look it up. Pretty cool they way they take a very simple concept tool and embellish it with style.


----------



## Fermic

Steve-F said:


> Fermic, can you post the dimensions of the scribe holder post, I might have one:>)



I got measurements with my micrometer and caliper :
8 mm on sides
10.18 mm thick
30.40 mm long

Something to note, that I still need information to know if I can zero this one with a scribe attached.


----------



## Steve-F

Wow, that's a beefy, wide post! I have an extra one that that fits a 6mm ( .250" + a couple) but not that thick:<(    Option.....If you can mill it thinner at the nose it's yours:<)


----------



## Fermic

Steve-F said:


> Wow, that's a beefy, wide post! I have an extra one that that fits a 6mm ( .250" + a couple) but not that thick:<(    Option.....If you can mill it thinner at the nose it's yours:<)


Eh, I don't have a suitable mill. But thanks anyway.


----------



## sdelivery

BUY Anything?! Um I didn't buy anything....


----------



## Papa Charlie

Fermic said:


> I got measurements with my micrometer and caliper :
> 8 mm on sides
> 10.18 mm thick
> 30.40 mm long
> 
> Something to note, that I still need information to know if I can zero this one with a scribe attached.
> View attachment 357938



Do you have the clamp that would lock the pointer to the arm? If you do, you could probably make the pointer. It is a precision part to ensure Zero is Zero.


----------



## Fermic

Papa Charlie said:


> Do you have the clamp that would lock the pointer to the arm?


Sadly not, I'll have buy one from somewhere.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Fermic said:


> Sadly not, I'll have buy one from somewhere.


Wonder if a different brand could work? Maybe with a little tweaking?

Maybe reach out to Starrett and Mitutoyo and see if they might have something for you. I have been very impressed by Starrett's technical support.


----------



## 682bear

My purchase today... sorry, it's not machining related except... now I have something to haul new/old machines home on...




It is 14x6, with a 5500lb cargo weight capacity. I just brought it home from the local Tractor Supply. Getting it home was an adventure...

Just a word of advice... ALWAYS check to see what size hitch ball a new trailer takes BEFORE towing it home. Never assume anything.

No damage, just an increased heart rate and a severely bruised ego. Now ya'll can laugh at or with me... your choice.

-Bear


----------



## Gaffer

Nice trailer. I assumed a hitch ball once too. Fortunately, there was no damage, but it scared the crap out of me when the trailer hopped off the ball. It only took once. I'm not proud of it but have a few, or more, 'it only took once' moments. LOL


----------



## 682bear

Gaffer said:


> Nice trailer. I assumed a hitch ball once too. Fortunately, there was no damage, but it scared the crap out of me when the trailer hopped off the ball. It only took once. I'm not proud of it but have a few, or more, 'it only took once' moments. LOL



A friend of mine once tried to load a golf cart on a smaller trailer and found out he forgot to latch the hitch clamp... when the hitch went through the tailgate on his 6 month old GMC truck. 

It went through the tailgate... all the way through...

That was another 'only once' learning experience.

-Bear


----------



## Papa Charlie

682bear said:


> My purchase today... sorry, it's not machining related except... now I have something to haul new/old machines home on...
> 
> View attachment 357970
> 
> 
> It is 14x6, with a 5500lb cargo weight capacity. I just brought it home from the local Tractor Supply. Getting it home was an adventure...
> 
> Just a word of advice... ALWAYS check to see what size hitch ball a new trailer takes BEFORE towing it home. Never assume anything.
> 
> No damage, just an increased heart rate and a severely bruised ego. Now ya'll can laugh at or with me... your choice.
> 
> -Bear



Nice trailer. I think we have all had hitch moments. Mostly for me it has been the ball is way to small and when I pulled up to test the attachment the trailer went flying or it was too big a ball and I had to go find a store to buy another size and often a wrench at the same time. My F350 Dually has a 2-5/16" ball on it and it covers most everything I have come up against, except for pintle.

Now to the trailer, very nice. I am looking for one also. Don't want to buy a new trailer, but when I go to move all my tools and equipment to our new retirement home next year, I won't pay a mover to do it. 14-18 foot bed with a similar capacity, which puts it in the 7K to 10K range for GVWR. Looking for ramps that can also handle a tractor. Missed one that would have been perfect, had tilt bed with hydraulic assist. Gone in less than 15 minutes of posting on CL. Needed a new bed, wiring and lights but price was only $1600.


----------



## Badabinski

Finally got this HUGE digital indicator I bought off of KBC a couple of months ago:


Has a bit over 4" of travel. I'm going to use it with my Edge Technology carriage travel indicator holder to have a ghetto quasi-DRO. Pretty stoked!


----------



## brino

Fermic said:


> Old Fowler 250 mm / 10 inch height gauge with a missing scribe holder ( I am looking for the right one, suggest me one ) :





Fermic said:


> I got measurements with my micrometer and caliper :
> 8 mm on sides
> 10.18 mm thick
> 30.40 mm long



I went and found a couple spares I had too:






and unfortunately, the inside measurements on both are 0.254" x ~1" (6.45 x 25 mm)
Dang. So they won't help you either.....

Sorry!
-brino


----------



## 682bear

Todays buys were directly related to yesterdays buy...




2-⁵/¹⁶ ball and mount. Both are rated at 7500 lbs trailer weight. The GVWR on the trailer is 7000 lbs, so I should be good to go...

-Bear


----------



## 682bear

I made a modification to the new trailer... I have the Decked drawer system in the back of my truck... the tailgate has to be fully lowered to open the drawers. The tailgate won't go down all the way with the trailer hitched up, the tailgate hits the top of the trailer jack.




So I removed the jack...




... and replaced it with a swing-up style jack mounted to the front of the trailer frame...







Now I can get into the drawers without unhitching the trailer.

-Bear


----------



## sdelivery

I got a rock.......
Okay I bought it for a customer.......
So I guess I didn't get anything


----------



## mmcmdl

A drill press .  After giving mine away with the heavy base , I bought one from my neighbor with a lighter base . Hope to teach my daughter the safe way to use this in the near future . She wants to make crafts which is great . I want her to do it safely .


----------



## mmcmdl

Yeah , I know . It didn't happen without pics .  It is a off shore brand , but it's also for my daughter .


----------



## projectnut

I have a couple of identical drill presses I bought new back in about  1980.  At the time they were $125.00 each.  Both are still in service and are running fine.  One had to have a new chuck because it kept spinning off every time the machine was used.  Other than that they're still both original.  One has the name badge Rockford and the other is Farm & Fleet


----------



## brino

mmcmdl said:


> Yeah , I know . It didn't happen without pics .



That's a great size for bench mounting and small projects.
It's tough to find a used drill press without the table looking like Swiss cheese!
-brino


----------



## Papa Charlie

682bear said:


> I made a modification to the new trailer... I have the Decked drawer system in the back of my truck... the tailgate has to be fully lowered to open the drawers. The tailgate won't go down all the way with the trailer hitched up, the tailgate hits the top of the trailer jack.
> 
> View attachment 358089
> 
> 
> So I removed the jack...
> 
> View attachment 358090
> 
> 
> ... and replaced it with a swing-up style jack mounted to the front of the trailer frame...
> 
> View attachment 358092
> 
> 
> View attachment 358093
> 
> 
> Now I can get into the drawers without unhitching the trailer.
> 
> -Bear


I have come back to your pictures at least a few times. The more I think about it. Putting the jack farther back behind the tongue would make moving the trailer around much easier by hand.

On my last trailer, I added stabilizer jacks on both sides at the rear of the trailer. Made loading heavy equipment much easier. If you have ever been loading or unloading a piece of heavy equipment and had he truck take off down the hill because you just removed all the weight off the rear wheels of the truck it is exciting. You will see why adding rear jacks are a good resource. Trick is to just keep loading or unloading until the weight is stabilized and lever you created with the trailer levels out.


----------



## projectnut

I use the same style fold away jack on my 10,000 lb. trailer.  The trailer I have was originally built by a local construction company to haul an 8,500 lb. Bobcat.  The platform is only 10' long and 5' wide.  I paid $100.00 for it 14 years ago.  Since then I put on the box, new tires, new fenders, repaired the ramps, new bushings in the springs, the jack, new lights, and new brake shoes.

It's served me well over the years and is now in need of a new set of tires again.  All in all I'm guessing I have about $1,000.00 invested.  It's been used to haul everything from soup to nuts over the years.  Everything from tractors and end loaders to brush and landscaping materials.


----------



## GoceKU

Today couple of packages arrive, got me three 1/4 ball valves, Auto punch, pack of belts for my finger sander and a pack of dust masks, it about time i start to protect my lungs.


----------



## Aukai

Pratt Burned International 6 1/4 top jaw chuck.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a Bison 5” plain back (not a Set-Tru) 5C collet chuck on eBay. These are $490 new, & this one was (only?) $285. It has been sitting around in WI for a few years, and it was manufactured back when Toolmex made the parts for Bison.

The eBay auction was at $99 only 1 second before it ended. I thought I had it for $99, and then suddenly it said that I won it for $285 (I had put in that I would bid up to a fair amount higher than that still). That was a surprising development in one second.

I bought it because the chuck that I like to use (4J, 12”) is unable to mount work smaller than a 1/2”. I am not even going to buy collets larger than 1/2” (I’m good with the 4J), but I will hopefully be able to afford metric collets up to 13 mm.


----------



## mmcmdl

projectnut said:


> I use the same style fold away jack on my 10,000 lb. trailer. The trailer I have was originally built by a local construction company to haul an 8,500 lb. Bobcat. The platform is only 10' long and 5' wide. I paid $100.00 for it 14 years ago. Since then I put on the box, new tires, new fenders, repaired the ramps, new bushings in the springs, the jack, new lights, and new brake shoes.
> 
> It's served me well over the years and is now in need of a new set of tires again. All in all I'm guessing I have about $1,000.00 invested. It's been used to haul everything from soup to nuts over the years. Everything from tractors and end loaders to brush and landscaping materials.


I have a very similar trailer nut . It was owned by the local Bobcat dealer . It's a friggin beast and I've put it thru the ringer . I've bought all the D rings and tie downs but never installed them . The last haul was a Bridgeport mill , 2 lathes and a large H bandsaw . Lately it holds scrap metal out in the back yard


----------



## projectnut

mmcmdl said:


> I have a very similar trailer nut . It was owned by the local Bobcat dealer . It's a friggin beast and I've put it thru the ringer . I've bought all the D rings and tie downs but never installed them . The last haul was a Bridgeport mill , 2 lathes and a large H bandsaw . Lately it holds scrap metal out in the back yard


Mine has been sitting along side the garage for nearly a year without being moved.  I normally use it for landscaping supplies, and haul brush and leaves to the recycle center.  On a normal year it takes between 10 and 20 loads to the recycle center and a couple trips to the family cottage 100 miles north of here.  Before the snow flies I take the wood floor and sides off and leave the bare metal flat bed in the weather.  The original deck of the trailer is only 2, 18" wide steel plates the length of the trailer covered with expanded metal something like the deck of the trailer in this link:









						Open Deck Car Trailer
					

Haul your vehicles with ease, Four wheels off the ground with a 7,000lb Capacity Car Hauler Flatbed Trailer. Why rent an Open deck Flatbed trailer when you can own?




					towsmarttrailers.com
				




I put sections of 5/8" plywood over the plates and add the sides when carrying anything other than a tractor or loader.  The plywood is leftover from when we remodeled the cottage in 1978, and has been used almost continually in the trailer since 2007.  Last spring I  loaded it with junk to go to our local recycling center, but had a hip replaced before I got it unloaded.  The trailer sat full over the winter.  Now that the snow is melting I'll get it emptied, put on a new set of tires, and replace some of the side and floor boards.


----------



## BladesIIB

I bought a Precision Matthews BS-1 Dividing Head.  Had a little fun with the delivery and unboxing video.  With a What to Buy forum, I figured I can't be the only one who gets excited when a new package arrives.  Enjoy!


----------



## Papa Charlie

projectnut said:


> Mine has been sitting along side the garage for nearly a year without being moved.  I normally use it for landscaping supplies, and haul brush and leaves to the recycle center.  On a normal year it takes between 10 and 20 loads to the recycle center and a couple trips to the family cottage 100 miles north of here.  Before the snow flies I take the wood floor and sides off and leave the bare metal flat bed in the weather.  The original deck of the trailer is only 2, 18" wide steel plates the length of the trailer covered with expanded metal something like the deck of the trailer in this link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Open Deck Car Trailer
> 
> 
> Haul your vehicles with ease, Four wheels off the ground with a 7,000lb Capacity Car Hauler Flatbed Trailer. Why rent an Open deck Flatbed trailer when you can own?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> towsmarttrailers.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put sections of 5/8" plywood over the plates and add the sides when carrying anything other than a tractor or loader.  The plywood is leftover from when we remodeled the cottage in 1978, and has been used almost continually in the trailer since 2007.  Last spring I  loaded it with junk to go to our local recycling center, but had a hip replaced before I got it unloaded.  The trailer sat full over the winter.  Now that the snow is melting I'll get it emptied, put on a new set of tires, and replace some of the side and floor boards.



Nice trailer. I like the specs and the construction. I am still looking for a good used one, but most want at least if not more than that trailer is priced at for less than well kept trailers.


----------



## projectnut

I happened on this one by dumb luck.  I had just finished making some parts to mount a log splitter attachment to my homemade loader.  I'm not that much of a welder so I took everything to a friends shop to have him weld up the assembly.  He had done work for the construction company that built the trailer and traded them his labor for it.  He originally wanted $500.00.  It needed some work, and I didn't have time to deal with it then so I passed on the offer.

A few months later I took some more parts to him to weld and he asked if I had any interest in the trailer.  I said possibly depending on the price.  When he said $100.00 I couldn't get my hand in my pocket fast enough to find the money.  It was a 2 way street however.  I only paid $100.00 for the trailer initially, but he's the one that repaired the ramps, repaired the original fenders twice, made the new fenders out of 11 gauge diamond plate. and made the spare tire mount.  Of the additional $900.00 I put into it I think he got $800.00 of it.  The rest was spent on brake shoes, new tail lights, and wiring.  The new tires didn't cost anything out of pocket since I traded a set of tires and rims from a truck I no longer owned to a local tire dealer.


----------



## Braeden P

The oil dauber came today there is only 3 known and I own one


----------



## ChrisAttebery

I’ve been building up my metrology division lately.

I’ve had an import “Indicol” type spindle nose indicator holder for a few years and only use it sparingly because it’s a really fiddly thing. I was watching a Haas video about finding center the other day and saw a simple half round holder being used and thought it looked a lot easier to use. I found one at Shars for a good price. 

I’ve also had a cheap import indicator base for at least 20 years and never really liked it. I’ve been looking at Noga’s bases for a while but couldn’t see paying that much for something I use 2-3 times a year. I found this little Noga style base at Shars and looks like it’s the perfect size for my G0704 mill and 13x40” lathe.


----------



## 7milesup

Once you buy Noga, it means "No Going Back" to inferior indicator holder.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

yeah, I'd agree with that. Expensive but really takes the hassle out of setting up a DI. I've had mine in some seriously funky positions and it's rock solid.


----------



## MrCrankyface

Got myself some really chunky endmills!
Normally I'd never get something this big but the price was too good to miss out on.
40mm/ 1 37/64", one rougher and one normal.


----------



## Suzuki4evr

MrCrankyface said:


> Got myself some really chunky endmills!
> Normally I'd never get something this big but the price was too good to miss out on.
> 40mm/ 1 37/64", one rougher and one normal.


Can your mill collet support the size or are you going to make some kind of adaptor to fit in a collet? Reason for asking is that I have quite a few mills of 30mm shank sizes that I got with a tool lot,but couldn't use it yet because I haven't got around to make a clamping device. I am even thinking of grinding it down to 25mm for which I do have a collet. Any ideas from you or other members are welcome. 

O and nice buy.


----------



## MrCrankyface

Suzuki4evr said:


> Can your mill collet support the size or are you going to make some kind of adaptor to fit in a collet? Reason for asking is that I have quite a few mills of 30mm shank sizes that I got with a tool lot,but couldn't use it yet because I haven't got around to make a clamping device. I am even thinking of grinding it down to 25mm for which I do have a collet. Any ideas from you or other members are welcome.
> 
> O and nice buy.


For larger sizes I use weldon holders, the largest I have is 40mm and I usually use it for my flycutter.
Hopefully works well for the endmills since that's what it's meant for.   
I'd be worried using collets for such large endmills.


----------



## TIM-RANEY

I am afraid I have become addicted to eBay. It's not my fault. I could not pass up a 5C collet chuck. And once I mounted it on the lathe (10" Grizzly), I had to buy more 5C collets. BTW, the TIR for the chuck is ~0.0005". So, the last couple of days, I bought three hex 5C collets to go with the square collets I bought earlier this month. I don't buy complete sets - just as needed. The sets might be cheaper, but there are quite a few sizes I don't need right now. Sourced via eBay and Shars mostly. And I saw a nice [used] Mitutoyo 25mm micrometer (mech-digital) on the Ideal Precision Instruments website. These two orders were "firsts"...had not ordered from them before. Have a great day! Regards, Tim R.


----------



## brino

TIM-RANEY said:


> I could not pass up a 5C collet chuck. And once I mounted it on the lathe (10" Grizzly), I had to buy more 5C collets. BTW, the TIR for the chuck is ~0.0005"



Hi Tim,
Can you provide a picture of this chuck?
It sounds like a good one.

Welcome to the group!

-brino


----------



## TIM-RANEY

Thanks for the welcome, Brino. This shot shows the initial mounting of the chuck to verify the TIR. Now, it's mounted with proper socket head cap screws. More below... 
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
Work in the 5C collet shows the runout is about 0.0005" or less. It's a "Bostar" chuck made in China. It was worth a gamble.


----------



## BladesIIB

Follow up to my unboxing video. Here is the full review of this PM BS-1 Dividing head.   Also posted in the Precision Matthews section if you have any comments to post about the head.


----------



## Papa Charlie

@TIM-RANEY 

Welcome aboard.

I am looking at the same chuck. Have read some very good reports on them and yes, it does spur another buying process to acquire the collets. But its not all bad. Once you start, it is like Lays Potato Chips, you can't have just one. It is a sickness that we enjoy. Once you start on the collet path, then you have to get the collet stand, and so on and so on.

Enjoy!


----------



## TIM-RANEY

Papa Charlie said:


> @TIM-RANEY
> 
> Welcome aboard.
> 
> I am looking at the same chuck. Have read some very good reports on them and yes, it does spur another buying process to acquire the collets. But its not all bad. Once you start, it is like Lays Potato Chips, you can't have just one. It is a sickness that we enjoy. Once you start on the collet path, then you have to get the collet stand, and so on and so on.
> 
> Enjoy!


Thanks for the welcome, Charlie. I have made two stands for the collets from Baltic birch: one stand holds 15 collets; the other 9. However, they are full already. I did have 15 collet set already and two collet blocks (square + hex), but not used often.


----------



## Janderso

Papa Charlie said:


> @TIM-RANEY
> 
> Welcome aboard.
> 
> I am looking at the same chuck. Have read some very good reports on them and yes, it does spur another buying process to acquire the collets. But its not all bad. Once you start, it is like Lays Potato Chips, you can't have just one. It is a sickness that we enjoy. Once you start on the collet path, then you have to get the collet stand, and so on and so on.
> 
> Enjoy!


Then you’ll need 32’nds, then 64’ths and so on and so on.
It’s a wonderful way to spend ones hard earned cash.
It really helps to have a supportive spouse.
No, we aren’t going on vacation this year, I have to pay off my collet collection


----------



## BGHansen

TIM-RANEY said:


> Thanks for the welcome, Charlie. I have made two stands for the collets from Baltic birch: one stand holds 15 collets; the other 9. However, they are full already. I did have 15 collet set already and two collet blocks (square + hex), but not used often.


The collets are really nice for softer materials like brass, aluminum, wood or plastic.  Grip around almost the entire perimeter and don't leave jaw marks.  As you already noted, when things are dialed in there's so little runout you generally see complete circular scrubbing on your work as you advance the tool.  They make 5-C collet holders in I think 30 piece and 72 piece racks.  I recall paying around $10 for the smaller size, $30 for the larger.  I bought a 1/64" set from CDCO Tools for my Grizzly lathe and have been pleased.  I bought a 1/32" set from CDCO for my Clausing, then added the 1/64" "tweeners" from CME Tools out of the Detroit, MI area.  Been pleased with both sources.

Bruce


----------



## TIM-RANEY

Good points, Bruce. I got spoiled years ago when I used a Hardinge lathe with collets at work. Then years later, I adapted the this lathe and the last one to use ER-40 and MT#3 collets. Though the 5C collet chuck opens up more opportunities.


----------



## Badabinski

I got a few goodies today!

First up is this Roto-Dial magnetic indicator back. Abom79 featured it recently and I knew I had to have one. This thing is slick! I feel like I need a better indicator to use with it though. I'm just using some cheapy import one right now.



Next are a couple of end mills I scored off of evilBay. I got a 1/2" 3 flute Hanita rougher and a 3/4" 6 flute finishing mill from PCT. Both are pretty long reach (which has been missing from my collection of end mills), and I need a 6 flute endmill after acquiring some Invar a while back. Pretty pleased with both of these!


It's a shame I can't use any of this for a few days. I cut a nice 3/8" deep gash in my thumb with a sharp carbide box cutter today. It's not bad enough to warrant stitches, but I'll need to wear a bandage for a bit.


----------



## Papa Charlie

BGHansen said:


> The collets are really nice for softer materials like brass, aluminum, wood or plastic.  Grip around almost the entire perimeter and don't leave jaw marks.  As you already noted, when things are dialed in there's so little runout you generally see complete circular scrubbing on your work as you advance the tool.  They make 5-C collet holders in I think 30 piece and 72 piece racks.  I recall paying around $10 for the smaller size, $30 for the larger.  I bought a 1/64" set from CDCO Tools for my Grizzly lathe and have been pleased.  I bought a 1/32" set from CDCO for my Clausing, then added the 1/64" "tweeners" from CME Tools out of the Detroit, MI area.  Been pleased with both sources.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> View attachment 359083
> 
> View attachment 359084



You know, I have always thought the tool boxes with the lid for a top were a waste of space. But looking at how you utilized the lid as a tool board for your collets now has me thinking completely different. I wanted a dedicated box for each of the machines and had thougt about the type like in the bottom photo, but had discounted it because of that lid.

Thanks very much for the idea.


----------



## mmcmdl

Just pulled the trigger on the stump grinder for the Kubota .  The stimulus stimulated me . 









						WG24 Stump Grinder, Stump Grinder | Woodland Mills USA
					

The Woodland Mills WG24 PTO powered stump grinder connects directly to your tractors 3 point hitch system and is equipped with a large  solid steel grinding flywheel and tungsten carbide cutting teeth to make the removal of tree stumps a breeze!




					woodlandmills.com


----------



## Superburban

I could see that being stimulating.


----------



## BGHansen

Papa Charlie said:


> You know, I have always thought the tool boxes with the lid for a top were a waste of space. But looking at how you utilized the lid as a tool board for your collets now has me thinking completely different. I wanted a dedicated box for each of the machines and had thougt about the type like in the bottom photo, but had discounted it because of that lid.
> 
> Thanks very much for the idea.


I pulled the gas struts and replaced them with strap steel. Also labeled the rows with the steps by 1/16" and 1/8" to more quickly find a 5/16" or 1/2" one. I haven't used the collets on the Grizzly in 3 years.  I leave a collet chuck on the Clausing and bounce back and forth between the two lathes.

Bruce


----------



## BGHansen

Didn't have to buy them.  I was dumpster-diving at a shop that said "Go ahead, there might be some cut-offs you can use in back".  I saw the Mitutoyo cases and figured they were empty.  But much to my surprise. . .   I brought them to the shop owner, "I don't think you meant for these to be in the trash", but he said "take 'em".  I'm still an English-units guy, but nice to have some Mitutoyo metric mics with the old tumbler-style digital readout that I prefer.  The 0-75 mm set has a 25mm and two 75 mm standards; figure it probably should have a 25, 50, 75 so missing a 50 mm standard, but I'm happy!

Bruce


----------



## TIM-RANEY

You really lucked out, Bruce. I just bought a used 25mm Mitutoyo micrometer....mechanical digital too. It's in good shape and accurate, but the scales are cracked.....might have to replace them with new phenolic scales...the next "shop chore."


----------



## extropic

Bruce,
You get a giant "YOU SUCK" for that find.

They look super clean. Just incredible.

This is the real world example of "Ones man's trash . . .".

With luck like that, I hope you bought a couple of Lotto tickets.

Congratulations.


----------



## DavidR8

Great find Bruce, though it makes me sad that it's easier to toss something like that than to find someone who wants it.


----------



## Aukai

That's a big WOW, and major suckage


----------



## BGHansen

extropic said:


> Bruce,
> You get a giant "YOU SUCK" for that find.
> 
> With luck like that, I hope you bought a couple of Lotto tickets.
> 
> Congratulations.


Thanks, but I don't buy them.  I tell my wife I never buy lottery tickets because I used up all of my luck when I met her.  Go ahead and use that line on your next anniversary but be forewarned it might cost you a little shop time.

Bruce


----------



## 7milesup

mmcmdl said:


> Just pulled the trigger on the stump grinder for the Kubota .  The stimulus stimulated me .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WG24 Stump Grinder, Stump Grinder | Woodland Mills USA
> 
> 
> The Woodland Mills WG24 PTO powered stump grinder connects directly to your tractors 3 point hitch system and is equipped with a large  solid steel grinding flywheel and tungsten carbide cutting teeth to make the removal of tree stumps a breeze!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> woodlandmills.com


Wow.  That is pretty cool.  I have a brush hog in the plans for my Kubota this spring.  Need to make a bunch of walking trails through the woods for us.


----------



## 7milesup

BGHansen said:


> Didn't have to buy them.  I was dumpster-diving at a shop that said "Go ahead, there might be some cut-offs you can use in back".  I saw the Mitutoyo cases and figured they were empty.  But much to my surprise. . .   I brought them to the shop owner, "I don't think you meant for these to be in the trash", but he said "take 'em".  I'm still an English-units guy, but nice to have some Mitutoyo metric mics with the old tumbler-style digital readout that I prefer.  The 0-75 mm set has a 25mm and two 75 mm standards; figure it probably should have a 25, 50, 75 so missing a 50 mm standard, but I'm happy!
> 
> Bruce
> 
> 
> View attachment 359193
> 
> View attachment 359194


----------



## Janderso

BGHansen said:


> Didn't have to buy them.  I was dumpster-diving at a shop that said "Go ahead, there might be some cut-offs you can use in back".  I saw the Mitutoyo cases and figured they were empty.  But much to my surprise. . .   I brought them to the shop owner, "I don't think you meant for these to be in the trash", but he said "take 'em".  I'm still an English-units guy, but nice to have some Mitutoyo metric mics with the old tumbler-style digital readout that I prefer.  The 0-75 mm set has a 25mm and two 75 mm standards; figure it probably should have a 25, 50, 75 so missing a 50 mm standard, but I'm happy!
> 
> Bruce
> 
> 
> View attachment 359193
> 
> View attachment 359194


Very nice score Bruce.
I have the same set in STI. I don’t know why I don’t use them more.
The visual helps avoid errors imho


----------



## Ulma Doctor

BGHansen said:


> Didn't have to buy them.  I was dumpster-diving at a shop that said "Go ahead, there might be some cut-offs you can use in back".  I saw the Mitutoyo cases and figured they were empty.  But much to my surprise. . .   I brought them to the shop owner, "I don't think you meant for these to be in the trash", but he said "take 'em".  I'm still an English-units guy, but nice to have some Mitutoyo metric mics with the old tumbler-style digital readout that I prefer.  The 0-75 mm set has a 25mm and two 75 mm standards; figure it probably should have a 25, 50, 75 so missing a 50 mm standard, but I'm happy!
> 
> Bruce


couldn't have happened to a nicer guy, Congrats  Bruce!!!
BTW, you suck !!!!


----------



## martik777

Got a few 10mm roughing end mills for ~ $3 each (CAD) <3wks shipping from Canada. I know their shipping cost was 2x the price of the mills - strange








						0.99US $ 78% OFF|Bb Roughing End Mill Hss Cutters 4 Flute 5mm To 45mm Saw Blade Metal Machining Inch & Iso 6mm 8mm 10mm 12mm 16mm - Milling Cutter - AliExpress
					

Smarter Shopping, Better Living!  Aliexpress.com




					www.aliexpress.com


----------



## MrWhoopee

and




I didn't know I was looking for the drill set until I saw it. I'd been looking for drill and tap block at a reasonable price for a couple of years.


----------



## aliva

Nothing to do with machining but cost almost as much as tooling 2020 Edge SEL


----------



## mmcmdl

Brought a Norseman/Huot drill holder home from work yesterday . We are all cleaning up and tossing crap out . I'm not sure this would help me out or not in organizing drills . I may need 25 of them , possibly more !


----------



## erikmannie

Recently I bought a Bison 5” plain back (not a Set-Tru) 5C collet chuck on eBay from a machine shop in WI that had it sitting around for several years without ever mounting it.

This chuck is finally going into service because today I bought a D1-6 adapter plate, plenty of 5C collets, and collet storage trays.








						Crawford 5C Round Collets, Inch, Collet Sets
					

The Crawford 5C round collets (inch sizes) are your best choice.



					www.prattburnerd.com
				











						Crawford 5C Round Collets, Metric, Collet Sets
					

Choose from our great selection of rugged metric collets from 1.0mm to 27.0mm.



					www.prattburnerd.com
				















						5C x 64ths All Sizes Collet Rack
					

Rapid CNC - Machinist Tooling Organizers - Storage Solutions. Collet racks with labeled sizes saves time.



					www.colletizer.com
				












						5C Metric by 1/2 mm Collet Rack
					

Rapid CNC - Machinist Tooling Organizers - Storage Solutions. Collet racks with labeled sizes saves time.



					www.colletizer.com
				



I told my wife I saved a lot of money on this 5C setup by not buying a Set-Tru!


----------



## finsruskw

New Starrett edge finder.
Lightning fast, like overnight shipping!!


----------



## COMachinist

Purchased an ER40 collet block set and a set of shars best 1/8-1” collets sure hope these work better than the 5C collet blocks. Can’t get the rings tight enough to keep the part from spinning during machining. Can’t count the parts scraped because part spinning during milling.
CH


----------



## Badabinski

I had an unfortunate incident recently. I completely forgot basic knife safety while opening some packaging and cut my thumb up really, really badly. This was bad, but I made it worse by panicking, running out of my shop where my first aid kit was, and _accidently locked myself out_. Thankfully, the cut wasn't bad enough to be dangerous, but what if?

I'm a very forgetful person, so I decided I needed to do something about it:




I bought a giant first aid kit that I can mount to the wall of my shop. It's super hard to miss, has everything I'd need to deal with the injuries I'm competent enough to deal with, and I can order refills when stuff expires.

Was this overkill? Yes. Was this overpriced? Also probably yes. Was it easier than making my own first aid kit? Absolutely. I'd rather spend the money for convenience and get the thing that could save my life right away.

(I'm also going to make it much harder to lock myself out of my shop.)


----------



## middle.road

I'm in trouble. Big, humongous *t*rouble, with a capital '*T*', more so than with the Surface Plates.  
At an online auction today from a local estate sale company. Not organized real well if you know what I mean...
Out of their normal run-of-the-mill estate sale stuff.
Now then - how to inform the Better-Half that we're going to be busy on Saturday?...

OK, how the devil am I going to move this puppy?
And then what the heck do I get rid of in the shop to make room for it?
Might have to Flip it...



Old Starrett, just cause...



It's an Equipto, and the drawers are full of miscellany... 



And the 'Starrett' table-full...


----------



## middle.road

Badabinski said:


> I had an unfortunate incident recently. I completely forgot basic knife safety while opening some packaging and cut my thumb up really, really badly. This was bad, but I made it worse by panicking, running out of my shop where my first aid kit was, and _accidently locked myself out_. Thankfully, the cut wasn't bad enough to be dangerous, but what if?
> 
> I'm a very forgetful person, so I decided I needed to do something about it:
> View attachment 359550
> 
> View attachment 359551
> 
> I bought a giant first aid kit that I can mount to the wall of my shop. It's super hard to miss, has everything I'd need to deal with the injuries I'm competent enough to deal with, and I can order refills when stuff expires.
> 
> Was this overkill? Yes. Was this overpriced? Also probably yes. Was it easier than making my own first aid kit? Absolutely. I'd rather spend the money for convenience and get the thing that could save my life right away.
> 
> (I'm also going to make it much harder to lock myself out of my shop.)


I actually have a plastic shoe-box by the door with gauze, bandages, and a couple of hand towels so that if...
When I sliced my finger up on the box fan it worked as intended.


----------



## middle.road

Missed out on these, was hoping they'd go *cheap*, posting for reference,:


----------



## Papa Charlie

middle.road said:


> I'm in trouble. Big, humongous *t*rouble, with a capital '*T*', more so than with the Surface Plates.
> At an online auction today from a local estate sale company. Not organized real well if you know what I mean...
> Out of their normal run-of-the-mill estate sale stuff.
> Now then - how to inform the Better-Half that we're going to be busy on Saturday?...
> 
> OK, how the devil am I going to move this puppy?
> And then what the heck do I get rid of in the shop to make room for it?
> Might have to Flip it...
> View attachment 359549
> 
> 
> Old Starrett, just cause...
> View attachment 359552
> 
> 
> It's an Equipto, and the drawers are full of miscellany...
> View attachment 359553
> 
> 
> And the 'Starrett' table-full...
> View attachment 359554



I am not sure if the ask for forgiveness over asking for permission is going to help you much. JK

Nice bandsaw. Would love to find one of those that is reasonably priced. Looks like you got a lot of nice tools there. Congrats.


----------



## eugene13

My son got me this for Christmas from some internet site.  It was supposed a internal threading tool but turned out to be a right hand turning tool, the price was $24 and return shipping was ???  so I kept it.  the shank is 3/4", can i mill it down 1/8" to fit my QCTP?


----------



## rwm

Yes. The tool holders are not hardened. I have cut them down to fit.
Robert


----------



## extropic

eugene13 said:


> My son got me this for Christmas from some internet site.  It was supposed a internal threading tool but turned out to be a right hand turning tool, the price was $24 and return shipping was ???  so I kept it.  the shank is 3/4", can i mill it down 1/8" to fit my QCTP?


Test the hardness with a file before you wreck a good HSS end mill. I wouldn't be surprised if the tool holder was case hardened.

I noticed it's a negative rake holder. Do you normally use negative rake tooling?


----------



## Brento

Bought me a set of 2-6" inside micrometer for 35$ on marketplace. Looks to be in pretty good condition.


----------



## eugene13

extropic said:


> Test the hardness with a file before you wreck a good HSS end mill. I wouldn't be surprised if the tool holder was case hardened.
> 
> I noticed it's a negative rake holder. Do you normally use negative rake tooling?


No to the negative rake, as I said, it was supposed to be a threading tool, as long as I have it I want to try and use it, I'll polish off any case hardening with a grinder, any advice about what to use it on will be appreciated.  I was thinking about building a big fly cutter.


----------



## Badabinski

I didn't have an ER32 collet chuck for my new R8 spindle mill. I didn't like certain things about the cheap import MT3 one I have for my G8689, so I decided to splurge a bit. I bought this Iscar collet chuck off of MSC and holy crap, this is a beautifully made piece of kit! Everything is smooth and totally free of burrs. I can't wait for my thumb to heal up so I can go out and try this thing. I'm really interested to see what kind of runout I get.




I'm attaching the remaining pictures rather than embedding them.

Also, apparently this supports through coolant? I doubt I'll ever use that, but it's cool.


----------



## extropic

eugene13 said:


> No to the negative rake, as I said, it was supposed to be a threading tool, as long as I have it I want to try and use it, I'll polish off any case hardening with a grinder, any advice about what to use it on will be appreciated.  I was thinking about building a big fly cutter.



I don't know what type of machines you have or your experience level, so . . .
I think negative rake tooling is usually used on full industrial machines because they require more rigid support and horsepower than positive (or neutral) rake tooling. I just didn't want you to go thru the exercise of modifying it and end up with poor performance. YMMV.


----------



## Brento

Does anyone have the set of central inside mics? I have a question about them.


----------



## Braeden P

Just got some 5c collets and a 5c indexer


----------



## SRay53TxTn

PM-728V-T X Axis power feed for my new 728 mill.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought some 5C collets:








						Pratt Burnerd America 0123-R-1-5/64 | Crawford 1-5/64" 5C Round Collet
					

We distribute top-quality industrial tools and machine shop supplies at the best prices. View our collection of CNC machinist supplies and tooling packages.




					allindustrial.com
				











						Pratt Burnerd America 0123-R-1-3/32 | Crawford 1-3/32" 5C Round Collet
					

We distribute top-quality industrial tools and machine shop supplies at the best prices. View our collection of CNC machinist supplies and tooling packages.




					allindustrial.com
				











						Pratt Burnerd America 0123-R-1-7/64 | Crawford 1-7/64" 5C Round Collet
					

We distribute top-quality industrial tools and machine shop supplies at the best prices. View our collection of CNC machinist supplies and tooling packages.




					allindustrial.com
				











						Pratt Burnerd America 0123-R-1-1/8 | Crawford 1-1/8" 5C Round Collet
					

We distribute top-quality industrial tools and machine shop supplies at the best prices. View our collection of CNC machinist supplies and tooling packages.




					allindustrial.com
				



The 5C collet set that I bought last week only goes up to 1-1/64”.


----------



## mmcmdl

The stump grinder arrived this morning . It's supposed to be sunny , so I'm going to be out looking for " wood " . That didn't sound right .


----------



## Brento

I have plenty of wood here Dave a ton to be exact. Just unloaded this morning.


----------



## mmcmdl

Brento said:


> I have plenty of wood here Dave a ton to be exact. Just unloaded this morning.


I am MORE THAN READY to get up your way Brent !


----------



## Brento

I bet. Im waiting for this weather to paint my garage floors and set up shop.


----------



## killswitch505

Feel like I scored today got both for $100 the ER40 didn’t come with any collets and no markings


----------



## erikmannie

One of my Crawford 5C collet sets arrived today. I wanted to post here to tell everybody how nice the Crawford collets are. They are imported by Pratt Burnerd.

I have yet to receive the backing plate so that I can try them out, but the finish and threads seem perfect. They are marked (looks to be etching) Crawford, 5C along with the size. 

I was really happy to see the brand name etched on there in case I ever want to sell them (as if).


----------



## Cadillac

Did alittle bing shopping at one of my favorite eBay vendors. Should be good on inserts for awhile. The chuck I picked up at the local flea market for 5 bucks. Cost more for the new arbor. Zimi-hk is the seller great products and pricing.


----------



## NCjeeper

I order my inserts from that seller also.


----------



## 7milesup

How long does it take for you guys to get your orders from him?


----------



## BGHansen

I use Zimi-hk also.  Stuff shows up in 2-3 weeks.

Bruce


----------



## rwm

Delete please


----------



## 7milesup

rwm said:


> OK-dumb question. How do I search for a seller on eBay
> R


Go to "advanced" just right of the normal search button on eBay's home page.  Scroll nearly all the way down and it will say "Sellers".  Check the box "Show only sellers from" box and then type in the name of the seller in the box next to "Include".  Hit "search' at the bottom.


----------



## Steve-F

Just bought 21 pcs of R-8 collets in 1/32 increments for $20


----------



## pontiac428

Out with the old, in with the new!

After a local newsworthy compressor explosion, I decided to run a bore scope down into my old 1987 ASME tank... and it looked like a lost shipwreck of buckled, deep rust.  I guess I should have made an attempt to drain it before putting it into storage last time.  Anyway, glad I checked.  Now to get this beast in place and see if it keeps up with the demand...


----------



## Suzuki4evr

So do I 


NCjeeper said:


> I order my inserts from that seller also.


----------



## Ianagos

I also get stuff from zimi-hk too

The generic insert like ccmt are great but stuff like the dnmg and vnmg were almost completely unusable. So you just kind of have to know what to get.

Sometimes the tool holders are good but sometimes not. They are not all that consistent.


----------



## Shootymacshootface

pontiac428 said:


> Out with the old, in with the new!
> 
> After a local newsworthy compressor explosion, I decided to run a bore scope down into my old 1987 ASME tank... and it looked like a lost shipwreck of buckled, deep rust.  I guess I should have made an attempt to drain it before putting it into storage last time.  Anyway, glad I checked.  Now to get this beast in place and see if it keeps up with the demand...


I hate it when we talk air compressors. It makes me think about how old mine is.
I would like to move it outside.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Shootymacshootface said:


> I hate it when we talk air compressors. It makes me think about how old mine is.
> I would like to move it outside.


I have long ago made the decision that my next compressor will not reside inside of the building. Noise, bleed/drain waste, and a large compressed air vessel bomb.


----------



## DLF

Updated my mill workstop. The old Chinese one was just garbage.

So I bought a Tschorn 5D Workstop. It works beautifull.

Still a bit on the large side, but a smidge smaller than the Chinese ones







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rwm

That type of work stop looks like a good project. Why does it need to be so large?
Robert


----------



## Papa Charlie

rwm said:


> That type of work stop looks like a good project. Why does it need to be so large?
> Robert



My guess would be to allow for hold down clamps or clearance of other fixtures.


----------



## BladesIIB

I agree, that looks like a good project and a great tool to have on the mill. I think I will do some looking and try to find a good design for a home build.


----------



## Papa Charlie

BladesIIB said:


> I agree, that looks like a good project and a great tool to have on the mill. I think I will do some looking and try to find a good design for a home build.



Check out the Edge Tool Stop, I like its design


----------



## hman

Thanks, @Papa Charlie ... Just ordered one.


----------



## westerner

pontiac428 said:


> Out with the old, in with the new!
> 
> After a local newsworthy compressor explosion, I decided to run a bore scope down into my old 1987 ASME tank... and it looked like a lost shipwreck of buckled, deep rust.  I guess I should have made an attempt to drain it before putting it into storage last time.  Anyway, glad I checked.  Now to get this beast in place and see if it keeps up with the demand...


I am in the market myself. A few questions, if you don't mind-

What RPM motor?
Two or single stage?
What 'stated' CFM at 100 psi?
How much dough, and what was shipping/delivery like?


----------



## Brento

I bought me some stuffs for 300$ only thing not happiest about was the chinese 0-1 mic. Was hoping it was a starret but has a broken carbide face. The calipers were chinese as well but they feel pretty solid. I find it hard for dial calipers to not be crappy sometimes. The son bar under the 123 blocks need a little light scrubbing along with the vice. Has some rust spots on them. Home made triangles and squares. Will have to check the squares against something to see if they are... well square. Lol. The telescoping gages look decent shape. Also a home made one in there as well. The B&S indicator looks like maybe miss or have some added parts? The federal indicator needs to be sent out to get cleaned and redone. A little sticky on the last .200 travel. Not sure what it was used for with those tips. It is attaches to an aluminum T base. The other cool find was a square block for a grinder pictured under the v block.


----------



## DLF

rwm said:


> That type of work stop looks like a good project. Why does it need to be so large?
> Robert



Sometimes it’s make or buy decision time.
This time the buy team won.

Yes this would have been a nice project but time is limited and I do this as a hobby.

Besides, the unfinished projects pile is big enough 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BGHansen

DLF said:


> Sometimes it’s make or buy decision time.
> This time the buy team won.
> 
> Yes this would have been a nice project but time is limited and I do this as a hobby.
> 
> Besides, the unfinished projects pile is big enough


Agreed!  I've had a radius turner on my "list of good intentions" for years.  Would be "one and done" if I found a decent deal on one.

Bruce


----------



## DLF

The easter bunny visited me (again) this this week. And this time he brought a Haimer 3D Taster (glorified edge finder). With an integrated BT30 tool holder.

And there is still 1 week to easter...









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BladesIIB

How do you like it?  I was looking at one with just the 10mm stud top to hold in my R8 machine.  I think it will just fit in a 10mm collet?  Pricey but seems better than my current edge finder.


----------



## DavidR8

DLF said:


> The easter bunny visited me (again) this this week. And this time he brought a Haimer 3D Taster (glorified edge finder). With an integrated BT30 tool holder.
> 
> And there is still 1 week to easter...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I thought there was a typo...3D Taster.
I thought....wait a second, I'm a 3D taster


----------



## pontiac428

westerner said:


> I am in the market myself. A few questions, if you don't mind-
> 
> What RPM motor?
> Two or single stage?
> What 'stated' CFM at 100 psi?
> How much dough, and what was shipping/delivery like?


Well, Quincy is one of the last fully made in USA compressor brands out there in this size range.  This thing just oozes quality.  The pump is a 2-stage that provides  17.2 CFM of 175 psi service air at 942 pump RPM (if you want a good high volume1-stage, try Jenny).  The motor is a Baldor, of course!  I've never seen such a massive compressor head and motor on any other so-called 5hp air compressor.  The intercooler and aftercooler are icing on the cake.  It'll cost you double what a Chinese import with a defunct, reappropriated American brand name on it will, but that is a distinction that I am willing to pay for.  And the 6-year bumper to bumper warranty is nice.


----------



## DLF

BladesIIB said:


> How do you like it? I was looking at one with just the 10mm stud top to hold in my R8 machine. I think it will just fit in a 10mm collet? Pricey but seems better than my current edge finder.



It is a super nice tool. Costs a fortune and is one of those tools that one should buy new, but it works really good and will make set-up much easier.

I took the integrated toolholder version because this is the shortest option and will save a lot of Z travel


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DLF

DavidR8 said:


> I thought there was a typo...3D Taster.
> I thought....wait a second, I'm a 3D taster



Well, taster is the german word for indicator. And it’s the product name.

But I agree, doesn’t sound that good in english


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BladesIIB

DLF said:


> It is a super nice tool. Costs a fortune and is one of those tools that one should buy new, but it works really good and will make set-up much easier.
> 
> I took the integrated toolholder version because this is the shortest option and will save a lot of Z travel
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sounds like a winner. I will be sure to consider the overall height before ordering. Thank you. 

Bud


----------



## Ianagos

Got me a small cylindrical grinder.

Also got a tool and cutter grinder


----------



## NegativeK

Some Ebay purchases came in.

I bought a Glacern face mill and Ebayed some inserts earlier this month -- but the inserts took a slow boat from Bulgaria. Finally got to put them to the test on some unused 4140 PH last night, and I have to say -- it's way better than trying to remove material with a fly cutter or 50 passes with a 1/2" end mill. 
	

		
			
		

		
	



Ordered a height gage earlier this week. I've been using a planer gage with a scribe and gage blocks for a while, and while that's doable....

I held out a bit for one with a dial; I was comfortable with the venier height gage I had a while ago, but I'd rather be faster and comfortable. Saw this little 6" deal with box at a good price and it probably took me less than five minutes to pull the trigger. And it works well!


----------



## Gaffer

It's not a machining-related purchase, but I'm a happy camper. I bought my buddy's '05 Ram 2500 4X4 diesel pickup with 146k miles. It's a work truck, but he's OCD and meticulously maintains everything he owns. My lovely wife said it is my present as today is our 31st wedding anniversary. The truck will tow our travel trailer, etc., so my wife's Suburban can have a rest.


----------



## DavidR8

Happy anniversary @Gaffer! Nice wheels


----------



## pontiac428

Okay, @Gaffer, you say your wife said it's your anniversary present... What did you get her?  (D'oh!)


----------



## Gaffer

pontiac428 said:


> Okay, @Gaffer, you say your wife said it's your anniversary present... What did you get her?  (D'oh!)


LOL - Flowers and and I love you.  She still has an I-owe-you from lasts year’s two-week trip to Spain. We had to cancel it due to the COVID onset.


----------



## hman

@DLF - An Easter taster sounds a very tasty tester to have in your toolbox.


----------



## finsruskw

pontiac428 said:


> Out with the old, in with the new!
> 
> After a local newsworthy compressor explosion, I decided to run a bore scope down into my old 1987 ASME tank... and it looked like a lost shipwreck of buckled, deep rust.  I guess I should have made an attempt to drain it before putting it into storage last time.  Anyway, glad I checked.  Now to get this beast in place and see if it keeps up with the demand...


What is the model and spec's on that unit?
Been looking at the Quincy's for a few weeks but none of the stores around here have the model I want and they only offer the Vet discount for items they stock in the stores GGGRRRRR!!


----------



## pontiac428

finsruskw said:


> What is the model and spec's on that unit?
> Been looking at the Quincy's for a few weeks but none of the stores around here have the model I want and they only offer the Vet discount for items they stock in the stores GGGRRRRR!!


It's the QT-5 with the Max package. I think I found the bottom of the internet deciding which compressor to buy, and I think I made a good choice. Check in with me to see how it's holding up in 25 years. I'm thinking it's going to fetch a good price at my estate sale.









						Quincy QT Reciprocating Two-Stage Air Compressor
					

Quincy's two-stage reciprocating QT air compressor delivers superior performance and premium warranties with minimal downtime. Contact us today!




					www.quincycompressor.com


----------



## Superburban

Snagged this at a yard sale. I did not check them all yet, but look to be all American made, but various brands, and all 3/4" drive, except for a 1/2 craftsmen T breaker bar. Got this and 2 pump oil cans, for $15. I think they will all clean up nicely.


----------



## Suzuki4evr

Brento said:


> View attachment 360510
> View attachment 360511
> View attachment 360512
> View attachment 360513
> View attachment 360514
> 
> 
> I bought me some stuffs for 300$ only thing not happiest about was the chinese 0-1 mic. Was hoping it was a starret but has a broken carbide face. The calipers were chinese as well but they feel pretty solid. I find it hard for dial calipers to not be crappy sometimes. The son bar under the 123 blocks need a little light scrubbing along with the vice. Has some rust spots on them. Home made triangles and squares. Will have to check the squares against something to see if they are... well square. Lol. The telescoping gages look decent shape. Also a home made one in there as well. The B&S indicator looks like maybe miss or have some added parts? The federal indicator needs to be sent out to get cleaned and redone. A little sticky on the last .200 travel. Not sure what it was used for with those tips. It is attaches to an aluminum T base. The other cool find was a square block for a grinder pictured under the v block.


How much was the big toe in the bottom of the pic?


----------



## Brento

@Suzuki4evr oh that toe was free bc i bought the four little ones.


----------



## Brento

The one piggy went to the market and thats how i got everything.


----------



## NCjeeper

This should help save my lower back.


----------



## JRaut

NCjeeper said:


> This should help save my lower back.


How about your marriage though....?

Certainly wouldn't help mine...


----------



## NCjeeper

JRaut said:


> How about your marriage though....?
> 
> Certainly wouldn't help mine...


Actually she is quite supportive. I was going to buy an older one that was much cheaper. She said buy something better. So touchdown!


----------



## JRaut

Sounds like a keeper to me!


----------



## Papa Charlie

NCjeeper said:


> Actually she is quite supportive. I was going to buy an older one that was much cheaper. She said buy something better. So touchdown!


I think you win all the way around, a forklift and a heck of a partner


----------



## erikmannie

I had bought a Crawford 5C collet set & trays to organize them, but the set only goes down as small as 1/16”. This left 3 sad, empty holes in my tray. 

Tonight I bought 1/64” & 1/32” Shars collets (Hardinge are $77 each which is WAY too expensive) and a used Lyndex 3/64” collet on eBay.

Lyndex doesn’t make 5C collets smaller than 3/64”, so unless you want to pay $77 each for Hardinge you have to buy Chinese ones.













It is really hard to imagine an application for a 1/64” 5C collet!


----------



## Brento

I cant imagine either collets that small i wouldnt buy until i need them. However 7$ isnt expensive AND i am a car mechanic and i just bought two sockets from snap on that dont come in the set. But atleast it finished the set. I guess i should place foot in mouth now haha. Thise damn piggies like going to the market!


----------



## finsruskw

pontiac428 said:


> It's the QT-5 with the Max package. I think I found the bottom of the internet deciding which compressor to buy, and I think I made a good choice. Check in with me to see how it's holding up in 25 years. I'm thinking it's going to fetch a good price at my estate sale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quincy QT Reciprocating Two-Stage Air Compressor
> 
> 
> Quincy's two-stage reciprocating QT air compressor delivers superior performance and premium warranties with minimal downtime. Contact us today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.quincycompressor.com


251C80VCBM??


----------



## projectnut

I added a couple more tools to the inventory this week.  Nothing fancy, but certainly useful.  I stopped at a local used machine dealer last weekend looking for some 6061 and 316 bar stock.  He didn't have what i was looking for as far as metal was concerned, but showed me some things he's purchased from a local shop.

I ended up with a set of thread wires, a B&S magnetic V block for the grinder, a standard B&S V block and clamp for the mill, and a Starrett 124 inside micrometer set.  I did spend a couple hours cleaning and calibrating the micrometer set, but everything else is just as purchased.  The thread wires must have a few years on them because every set is in a glass bottle.  There's a picture of the stash I picked up for $75.00


----------



## Brento

They are pretty neat in the glass bottles. I love tools in neat boxes and such.


----------



## finsruskw

*Showed up yesterday, almost overnight shipping as well!
And...on sale to boot!!*


----------



## 7milesup

finsruskw said:


> *Showed up yesterday, almost overnight shipping as well!
> And...on sale to boot!!*


Where did you buy it?


----------



## DavidR8

projectnut said:


> I added a couple more tools to the inventory this week. Nothing fancy, but certainly useful. I stopped at a local used machine dealer last weekend looking for some 6061 and 316 bar stock. He didn't have what i was looking for as far as metal was concerned, but showed me some things he's purchased from a local shop.
> 
> I ended up with a set of thread wires, a B&S magnetic V block for the grinder, a standard B&S V block and clamp for the mill, and a Starrett 124 inside micrometer set. I did spend a couple hours cleaning and calibrating the micrometer set, but everything else is just as purchased. The thread wires must have a few years on them because every set is in a glass bottle. There's a picture of the stash I picked up for $75.00



What is a used machine dealer? 
(Kidding of course, I cannot imagine having access to used machine place I could drop by! Colour me envious!)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CootaStew

I finally got a Bridgeport style Turret Mill on friday.  The Mill is a Hafco BM-20E it's a 2006 model 3 phase with a 2hp motor. It came with a 6" vice, Er32 Collets and Chuck, 3" Face Mill and a Bham Boring & Facing Head. Looking at the manual for the machine it seems that Bridgeport parts will interchange as the part numbers in the manual are Bridgeport. I didn't get any tooling for the boring head so I'll have to make some attachments and buy some boring bars for it. I just ordered four 6000kg
	

		
			
		

		
	






	

		
			
		

		
	
 machine skates this morning so I can move it into position. The dirty picture of the mill is at the place where I bought it and the other is hanging from my forklift outside my work. The forklift pic may look deceiving with the sling being slack, but if you look closer there is a chain through the lifting ring on the mill. The pallet had partly collapsed on the truck so we used the chain through the ring to stabilize the mill so as I could reposition the head to the lifting position. Thankfully the mill didn't suffer any damage. I'm really looking forward to making some chips with it.


----------



## finsruskw

7milesup said:


> Where did you buy it?


It showed up on my e-mail from Amazon.
It is much cushier than a similar one I got on sale about 2 years ago from MSC and I have been on the lookout for another since but they never came back up on sale there.





						Durable Vinyl Heavy Duty Diamond-Dek Sponge Industrial Anti-Fatigue Floor Mat, 3' x 5', Black with Yellow Border: Floor Matting: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
					

Durable Vinyl Heavy Duty Diamond-Dek Sponge Industrial Anti-Fatigue Floor Mat, 3' x 5', Black with Yellow Border: Floor Matting: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



					www.amazon.com


----------



## pontiac428

finsruskw said:


> 251C80VCBM??


You correct, sir!


----------



## Larry$

finsruskw said:


> *Showed up yesterday, almost overnight shipping as well!
> And...on sale to boot!!*


We've had similar matts in our shop for a long time. They hold up very well.


----------



## sdelivery

CootaStew said:


> I finally got a Bridgeport style Turret Mill on friday.  The Mill is a Hafco BM-20E it's a 2006 model 3 phase with a 2hp motor. It came with a 6" vice, Er32 Collets and Chuck, 3" Face Mill and a Bham Boring & Facing Head. Looking at the manual for the machine it seems that Bridgeport parts will interchange as the part numbers in the manual are Bridgeport. I didn't get any tooling for the boring head so I'll have to make some attachments and buy some boring bars for it. I just ordered four 6000kg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 360984
> View attachment 360985
> View attachment 360986
> View attachment 360987
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> machine skates this morning so I can move it into position. The dirty picture of the mill is at the place where I bought it and the other is hanging from my forklift outside my work. The forklift pic may look deceiving with the sling being slack, but if you look closer there is a chain through the lifting ring on the mill. The pallet had partly collapsed on the truck so we used the chain through the ring to stabilize the mill so as I could reposition the head to the lifting position. Thankfully the mill didn't suffer any damage. I'm really looking forward to making some chips with it.


That lifting point where the ring is, is NOT designed to lift the entire machine.
This doesnt mean you can't get "lucky" once in a while BUT using that lifting point for the entire machine is like rolling dice in Vegas....


----------



## CootaStew

sdelivery said:


> That lifting point where the ring is, is NOT designed to lift the entire machine.
> This doesnt mean you can't get "lucky" once in a while BUT using that lifting point for the entire machine is like rolling dice in Vegas....


I agree with you. I looked at the rating of the ring AFTER the mill was in the workshop and it's only rated at 0.63T. The machine weighs about 1000kg so I won't be gambling with the ring again. The intension was actually to lift with the sling as that's how they show to do it in the manuals, but it ended up getting lifted with the chain.


----------



## Papa Charlie

CootaStew said:


> I agree with you. I looked at the rating of the ring AFTER the mill was in the workshop and it's only rated at 0.63T. The machine weighs about 1000kg so I won't be gambling with the ring again. The intension was actually to lift with the sling as that's how they show to do it in the manuals, but it ended up getting lifted with the chain.


At least you had both, so the sling was a safety.


----------



## Badabinski

I've always disliked the import boring head for my mill. It's a bit crunchy and I always struggled to hit dimensions with it. My current project has me machining some bearing seats on the mill, so I decided it was time to step up to something better. 

These things are expensive, but the quality difference is amazing. I can't wait to try this thing out.



(Also, I have no clue how to use this thing, it blows my mind that this can also face.)


----------



## fitterman1

Would you like to share the cost with us?
I'm not impressed with the import unit i have also.
Top score. Cheers Alby


----------



## Badabinski

I paid about $625 for this one. There were some that were cheaper on eBay, but this one looked pretty clean. There are also much, much cheaper options on eBay that don't do facing or tenths precision. I know I saw tons of Criterion boring heads all over for like $150-300.

EDIT: I should say that the $150-300 is based off of my terribly hazy memory.


----------



## DavidR8

The Criterion head that I have looks primitive compared to that


----------



## pontiac428

Drool for the Wolhaupter (it's better than cutting oil)!

I've gone from Chinese boring heads (disgust! yeech!) to Japanese (useable but without a mechanism for repeatability).  I lust for the forbidden German steel.  Nice find!


----------



## Aukai

Wohlhaupter boring head is on my bucket list, but I haven't even used my Criterion yet.
Nice score.


----------



## sycle1

One of them new fangled round corner drills.


----------



## CootaStew

Very nice boring & facing head. There is a lot of videos on YouTube on the Boring & Facing Heads.


----------



## Aukai

Sycle1, the chuck seemed to have a good grasp on the bit


----------



## Aukai

Brand new never used Cleveland solid carbide, 50 bucks.


----------



## 682bear

sycle1 said:


> One of them new fangled round corner drills.
> View attachment 361102



I've almost got you beat... I'm the proud owner of a straight-flute-twist-drill...




It's one of those cheap chinesium ½" bits that comes as a set in the red index box... I was attempting to use it several years ago and it grabbed and straightened the flutes...

I kept it as a 'conversation piece'...

-Bear


----------



## pontiac428

I've unrolled the fluting on some smaller cheapo bits like that, but a 1/2" drill is truly stepping into the big leagues!  Didja try reversing the drill and winding your helix back?


----------



## hman

sycle1 said:


> One of them new fangled round corner drills.
> View attachment 361102


WOW!  Ianagos was just posting about eccentric bolts in https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...in-your-shop-today.67833/page-445#post-840168  Maybe the two of you should get together for a strategery session!


----------



## alloy

Well technically I'm buying it tomorrow,  but it will happen, I have a picture


----------



## mattthemuppet2

nice! I got one just like that but without the stand. It's very useful and I've broken alot less stuff since I got it


----------



## alloy

I''m replacing this cobbled up mess.  Had to extend it to use a 5/16" broach. I have a collar clamp I put a keyway in.  Have to go half way, then -use a spacer block on top of the broach to finished the job.

Haven't broken anything yet, but with using a cheater bar on to get enough leverage, it's just a matter of time before I brake the broach.  I actually bought a back up broach just in case.

The guy says there isn't a number on the side of the press indicating size.  What size is yours?  To me it looks like a #3.


----------



## alloy

It's home now.  The base is home built but pretty sturdy. Unfortunately when you bear down on the handle it tries to tip forward. I'll anchor it down somehow.

Wife came out a saw it, said where is the handle?  I said in the lathe. I'm fixing it.

Her reply was, you just got it, now you are fixing it?



Wasn't too much of a fix, the rubber caps fell off the ends of the handle, so I drilled and tapped
the handle for a button head allen.

 Now I can broach the keyway all in one shot


----------



## hman

"Fixing it" is just about the first thing I do to any tool or gadget, even brand new.


----------



## alloy

Well fixing it came about the first time I used it. The cap came off and the handle fell out right next to my foot.  And that's a big dang handle.

  Did it for self preservation


----------



## brino

hman said:


> "Fixing it" is just about the first thing I do to any tool or gadget, even brand new.



Especially new! 
The old one was either already fixed or built better.

-brino


----------



## Badabinski

I forgot to post this! I got this absolutely ludicrous endmill as a part of a lot. I think it's a 2" Niagara rougher with a 1-1/4" shank. I weighed it and it came in at just under 1.6 kilos.




I have absolutely no way of using this crazy thing, but I love it and I'm happy I bought it.


----------



## FOMOGO

Pretty cool end mill. I actually have a mill that could run that. Cheers, Mike


----------



## Superburban

Badabinski said:


> I forgot to post this! I got this absolutely ludicrous endmill as a part of a lot. I think it's a 2" Niagara rougher with a 1-1/4" shank. I weighed it and it came in at just under 1.6 kilos.
> 
> 
> 
> I have absolutely no way of using this crazy thing, but I love it and I'm happy I bought it.


Hang on to it, you never know. Back when I was still a green horn, I bought this big momma off ebay. I just looked at the angle of the cutter, and did not realize the size of it. That is a 1oz insulated coffee cup next to it.  Now I can use it in my mill, but still have not found anything to cut with it, but some day.   






Yea, someday I will either use it, or my wife will sell it at an estate sale.


----------



## DLF

Oh well, the pandemic easter just got better.

Managed to snatch a fleabay Wohlhaupter UPA3. Almost complete kit except for the wrenches. But main parts are accounted for.

Have not received it yet, but by the looks should be in good working order and should be the removable shank version (aka the good stuff)








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwmelvin

I just bought a Millport 2S (Bridgeport clone). It will require some cleaning up but appears to be in okay shape. Moving it is the first challenge, as it's not in an easily accessible location. I figure disassembling it will be necessary to clean it anyway, so that's my plan for moving it...


----------



## Doug Gray

This week I picked up a Foley Make-Sharp.

The Foley Manufacturing company made all sorts of sharpening equipment particularly for circular saw blades. This "Make_Sharp" unit seems to be a smaller more "household" unit, relatively rare from what I can see online. I've temporarily set up a saw blade just to get a feel for the machine. I think I will end up removing the saw sharpening stuff and just use the really nice table on the right side. Also came with a very nice stand. If anyone has more info or a manual for the "Make -Sharp" model please let me know. If anyone can use the saw sharpening parts please let me know. Thanks for looking.


----------



## alex.fulgosi

Today i have received my old italian dbit grinder 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	













Inviato dal mio SM-G950F utilizzando Tapatalk


----------



## Diecutter

Curious as to what type of d-bit you will be sharpening?, high speed steel or carbide.  Looks like it's in good shape and up to the job.  If you plan on sharpening carbide get a diamond cup wheel for it.   Let us know how it works out for you.


----------



## alex.fulgosi

Hello, for me it's time to pratice sharpening, hss and carbide, i begin from clean the machine for understanding

Inviato dal mio SM-G950F utilizzando Tapatalk


----------



## erikmannie

I bought an Aloris CXA #1 directly from Aloris. $94.26 delivered. 

At these prices, I will now need to make do with the number of CXA tool holders that I have. 




The only reason I bought this CXA #1 is so that the bump centering tool that I will make this weekend will have a permanent home.


----------



## Aukai

Does Aloris direct have the 20% sale too?


----------



## erikmannie

@Aukai Yes, 20% off sale on the Aloris website.


----------



## Aukai

Great thanks.


----------



## Brento

Well i bought gage blocks last weekend and this is what i got from ebay.
	

		
			
		

		
	





Not very happy. The box has been beaten up as well. No protection. Just floating around. Needless to say i am after some sort odf refund or something bc this is not ok


----------



## WobblyHand

How hard is it to stuff a couple of napkins, crumpled newspaper, or corrugated cardboard in a box?  Not correctly packed for transportation by common carrier.  That is not ok.  Your seller has a responsibility to pack the box adequately for shipment.  They did not.

I cut up old boxes for packing.  They are free, easy to shape, and light.  Pieces of cardboard are also useful for a throw away work surface.


----------



## Janderso

Badabinski said:


> I forgot to post this! I got this absolutely ludicrous endmill as a part of a lot. I think it's a 2" Niagara rougher with a 1-1/4" shank. I weighed it and it came in at just under 1.6 kilos.
> 
> View attachment 361404
> 
> 
> I have absolutely no way of using this crazy thing, but I love it and I'm happy I bought it.


I don't know, you could mount it in your lathe chuck and chew up something!!


----------



## Janderso

erikmannie said:


> I bought an Aloris CXA #1 directly from Aloris. $94.26 delivered.
> 
> At these prices, I will now need to make do with the number of CXA tool holders that I have.
> 
> View attachment 361549
> 
> 
> The only reason I bought this CXA #1 is so that the bump centering tool that I will make this weekend will have a permanent home.
> 
> View attachment 361550


I have the CXA size lathe also. Don't be afraid of Shars tool holders. I have several and they work just fine for me.


----------



## extropic

Brento said:


> Well i bought gage blocks last weekend and this is what i got from ebay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 361818
> View attachment 361819
> View attachment 361820
> 
> Not very happy. The box has been beaten up as well. No protection. Just floating around. Needless to say i am after some sort odf refund or something bc this is not ok



You didn't get that from eBay. You got it from an inconsiderate (at a minimum) seller.
I think it's incredible that "Was the item safely packaged?" isn't a star rating in Feedback. It should have been from the beginning.
Such things have happened to me too many time.
The kindest interpretation I can come up with, to describe that kind of mindless packaging, is that the seller has never received such a package.
Alternatively, they may be sociopathic without any concern to protect the condition and value of your purchase.
***end rant***

Sorry for your troubles.
Request a return and get a 100% refund.
Buy something else such as:


			https://www.amazon.com/Accusize-Steel-Block-Grade-P900-S581/dp/B00HNU3JDU/ref=psdc_401584011_t1_B014QC0PW0


----------



## 7milesup

Totally not related to machining but I had to have it.  One of my good friend's father-in-law is a pack rat, but he has now decided to start getting rid of stuff.  While snooping around his shed I found about 20 of these.  They are Navy training shells.  3"/50 is what they call them.  So it would be "three inch fifty cal".  This means that the barrel of the gun is 50 times the caliber, so it would be about 150 inches long.  I paid $60 for this.  Since I am somewhat of a history nut it will go in my office.
This is the same guy that has the metal shaper, which I decided not to buy so now he drug it outside to sit in the rain... 








						Shaper barn find
					

I should put this in the vintage machinery section but meh, I will put it here. The F-I-L of one of my good friends has a huge pole shed absolutely packed with crap a collection of you-name-it.  My friend had told me that there was a metal working machine in the shed, so we ran over there today...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## schmidty13

7milesup said:


> I paid $60 for this.  Since I am somewhat of a history nut it will go in my office.


Cool!  If you can score another one for $60, I'd pay for your time and the shipping to get it to me.


----------



## Mike2Machine

Chandler model D duplex boring-facing head.
Auction at a local machine shop.  I think I was the only bidder.


----------



## Mike2Machine

hman said:


> "Fixing it" is just about the first thing I do to any tool or gadget, even brand new.


Well good, I'm glad it's not just me.
I just tore into a practically new VideoJet laser engraver just to be sure everything looked ok.  Before applying power.
Now I just have to find software for it.  I'd rather not gut it to install an open-source controller if I don't have to.


----------



## erikmannie

Janderso said:


> I have the CXA size lathe also. Don't be afraid of Shars tool holders. I have several and they work just fine for me.



All of my AXA tool holders (for my 10” lathe) are from mainland China, and I have never had a problem. 

I would have saved thousands of dollars if I would have bought Chinese CXA tool holders rather than Aloris.


----------



## Mike2Machine

Well not bought today, but an ongoing project.
It's an ex-Boeing optical-triangulation CMM. (yay Boeing surplus!)  24" dia. x 36" high measurement volume.
I got a quote for the software from the OEM some time before they folded.
More than 20X what I paid for it.
I politely said I'd rather reverse-engineer the thing.  And SWMBO wouldn't have approved.
Got the motion controls sorted, still working on getting the laser measurement head to spit out numbers.


----------



## hman

@7milesup - Very nice looking piece of woodwork.  Oughta look great on display!


----------



## Papa Charlie

7milesup said:


> Totally not related to machining but I had to have it.  One of my good friend's father-in-law is a pack rat, but he has now decided to start getting rid of stuff.  While snooping around his shed I found about 20 of these.  They are Navy training shells.  3"/50 is what they call them.  So it would be "three inch fifty cal".  This means that the barrel of the gun is 50 times the caliber, so it would be about 150 inches long.  I paid $60 for this.  Since I am somewhat of a history nut it will go in my office.
> This is the same guy that has the metal shaper, which I decided not to buy so now he drug it outside to sit in the rain...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaper barn find
> 
> 
> I should put this in the vintage machinery section but meh, I will put it here. The F-I-L of one of my good friends has a huge pole shed absolutely packed with crap a collection of you-name-it.  My friend had told me that there was a metal working machine in the shed, so we ran over there today...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hobby-machinist.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 361846
> View attachment 361847
> View attachment 361848
> View attachment 361849



Very cool, I also am a military history fan. I have my M1 Garand from 1943. It is one that produced by Winchester and one of a lot of 30k that ended up with duplicate SN's with Springfield. I have collected many of the accessories for it including several practice grenades and the launcher. All of the correct time frame. The holy grail would be to find the Springfield brother with the same SN. Probably in someones closet or maybe buried in Europe or the Pacific. I may never know.

*Edit: Just in case one of you might of my M1's brother, SN 1,359,28X.*

Would love to come across one of these practice shells to add to the display. Great find, congrats.


----------



## Janderso

Papa Charlie said:


> Very cool, I also am a military history fan. I have my M1 Garand from 1943. It is one that produced by Winchester and one of a lot of 30k that ended up with duplicate SN's with Springfield. I have collected many of the accessories for it including several practice grenades and the launcher. All of the correct time frame. The holy grail would be to find the Springfield brother with the same SN. Probably in someones closet or maybe buried in Europe or the Pacific. I may never know.
> 
> Would love to come across one of these practice shells to add to the display. Great find, congrats.


Love the Garand. I had a Springfield I bought from CMP. Lost it in the fire.
That one hurt.
Mr. Garand did a beautiful job on the design. It's a pleasure to own one.
 Maybe some day I'll find another.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Janderso said:


> Love the Garand. I had a Springfield I bought from CMP. Lost it in the fire.
> That one hurt.
> Mr. Garand did a beautiful job on the design. It's a pleasure to own one.
> Maybe some day I'll find another.



They still have some at CMP. Not as many as there use to be. Here is the link to the CMP Member Market Place in case you are interested. Then there is also the CMP Auctions, but they get pretty pricey for my blood, but a go there to look anyway.






						M1 Garand - CMP Forums
					

Garand Related For Sale/Trade Items



					forums.thecmp.org
				




I still shoot it but not very often. I have been putting together items that would have been worn into battle by a soldier in 1943. Took a while to find the right bayonet and scabbard. One thing I haven't found is the correct sling. The one I need is highly sought after. Last one I lost in auction went for over $300. But I still am looking with high hopes. One piece at a time.

I really want to create a nice display for the M1 and the accessories when I retire. I have seen some amazing displays that people have put together.


----------



## Janderso

Papa Charlie said:


> They still have some at CMP. Not as many as there use to be. Here is the link to the CMP Member Market Place in case you are interested. Then there is also the CMP Auctions, but they get pretty pricey for my blood, but a go there to look anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> M1 Garand - CMP Forums
> 
> 
> Garand Related For Sale/Trade Items
> 
> 
> 
> forums.thecmp.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still shoot it but not very often. I have been putting together items that would have been worn into battle by a soldier in 1943. Took a while to find the right bayonet and scabbard. One thing I haven't found is the correct sling. The one I need is highly sought after. Last one I lost in auction went for over $300. But I still am looking with high hopes. One piece at a time.
> 
> I really want to create a nice display for the M1 and the accessories when I retire. I have seen some amazing displays that people have put together.


I wonder how those 80,000 plus Garands form the Phillipines are coming out. Those should be available soon I would think.


----------



## Nogoingback

alloy said:


> Her reply was, you just got it, now you are fixing it?


I get that response from my wife fairly often.  I tell her I'm improving, not fixing, Doesn't help.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Janderso said:


> I wonder how those 80,000 plus Garands form the Phillipines are coming out. Those should be available soon I would think.



They have been working through those for a couple of years now. There are no Rack, Field or Special grades available, but there are still some Service Grade M1's available. I am negotiating for a 1947 Winchester 94 Flat Band right now. The wife would use one of them on me if I bought another M1. The Flat Band is in such perfect condition, I just can't pass it up and it replaces the one I had to sell for medical bills back when we were first married.


----------



## francist

Got these in the mail today. I need to make a couple of oddball oil wicks for a shuttle race and they want to be fairly stiff so my little stash of craft felt wasn’t going to do it. I found this place that sells sample packs and decided to spring for some. You get three 3” x 3” squares in 1/8”, 1/4”, and 1/2” thicknesses per pack in whatever grade you specify. I ordered an F5 and an F10 to compare the differences. I think they’re both 95% or better wool content. And then the colour pack of designer samples because, well, just because   Pretty quick shipping too, just over a week including the four-day Easter weekend.

-frank


----------



## Papa Charlie

francist said:


> Got these in the mail today. I need to make a couple of oddball oil wicks for a shuttle race and they want to be fairly stiff so my little stash of craft felt wasn’t going to do it. I found this place that sells sample packs and decided to spring for some. You get three 3” x 3” squares in 1/8”, 1/4”, and 1/2” thicknesses per pack in whatever grade you specify. I ordered an F5 and an F10 to compare the differences. I think they’re both 95% or better wool content. And then the colour pack of designer samples because, well, just because   Pretty quick shipping too, just over a week including the four-day Easter weekend.
> 
> -frank
> View attachment 361915



I have had a need for something like this several times but could find no resource for it until now. Thanks the picture tell all.


----------



## devils4ever

Vermont Gage 0.2510" - 0.5000" ZZ Minus Black Guard Pin Gage Set. I've been wanting/needing one of these for a while and I finally pulled the trigger. Next will be the smaller set: 0.0110" - 0.2500". I bought this from Travers off eBay. Strange how they have better prices on eBay than their website.

It was tempting to go for a Chinese set, but I've read they tend to rust although they are accurate. Cry once!


----------



## TIM-RANEY

I got a decent Lufkin dial indicator the other day via eBay. The range is 0.075" in 0.0005" increments. Good for checking parallels for parallelism on a surface plate (among other things). I took this shot after polishing the crystal with Novus #3; then #2 plastic polish.


----------



## Papa Charlie

@devils4ever 

Nice set of gauges. I use some individual Vermonts for sizing the neck on my competition cartridges, I also have a set of the Asian pins and both the Vermont and the Asian pins seem to be of similar quality.  Had it for a while now, the pins look like they did when I received them. So far I am very pleased with them, but would have liked to have the Vermont set in its stead, if for no other reason than they are made in USA.

I am looking to acquire the smaller set also. I know I would use the 0.061"-0.250" set, but wonder if I would really use the 0.011"-0.060" set enough to justify.


----------



## devils4ever

Papa Charlie said:


> @devils4ever
> I am looking to acquire the smaller set also. I know I would use the 0.061"-0.250" set, but wonder if I would really use the 0.011"-0.060" set enough to justify.


True, but what the heck. You might need them.


----------



## Badabinski

A whole bunch of evilBay items came in today. I'm a bit too tired to get photos of all of them, but these Mitutoyo 13" vernier calipers are probably my favorite item:




Up until this point, the largest measuring tool I had were my 6" Mitutoyo Digimatics. That's been okay, but I've had a need for something larger several times now. I looked at larger dial or digital calipers, but they would have been too expensive. I'm not really interested in buying lower quality measuring tools (I have a 1-2" mic that has betrayed my trust one too many times), so I decided to go old school.

I'm really happy with these. They're pretty smooth and look like they were well taken care of. I haven't had a chance to check their accuracy yet, but they don't look overly worn to me.


----------



## brino

Badabinski said:


> I looked at larger dial or digital calipers, but they would have been too expensive. I'm not really interested in buying lower quality measuring tools



100% agreed!
Quality over gadgetry, especially on more seldom-used equipment.
Your batteries won't be dead every time you need it!
-brino


----------



## pontiac428

A very large first aid cabinet.  I've left a trail of blood from the shop to the house three times this year... so when I mashed my wrist across the small end of a very sharp-threaded and burred bolt last week, I immediately ordered this.  Now, hopefully, I can patch myself up and go back to work without freaking out my wife!


----------



## ttabbal

pontiac428 said:


> A very large first aid cabinet.  I've left a trail of blood from the shop to the house three times this year... so when I mashed my wrist across the small end of a very sharp-threaded and burred bolt last week, I immediately ordered this.  Now, hopefully, I can patch myself up and go back to work without freaking out my wife!
> View attachment 362076




Glad you're ok. My wife was not amused when I bandaged myself and kept going. It might have been due to using a paper towel and duct tape to do it...


----------



## erikmannie

I just picked up 10 lbs. of 1/8” as well as 10 lbs. of 5/32” Lincoln Excalibur 7018 MR. These are all position except vertical down. My best guess is that MR stands for “moisture resisting”. They also offer MR-1 for improved impact resistance at lower temperatures (i.e. colder climates).

20 lbs. of rod, tax + delivery came to $123.07 from torchking on eBay.

The max amperage for the 5/32” Excalibur is 210A, and both my machines only go up to 210A. Hence, 5/32” is the largest diameter electrode that I can run on my machines.

Excalibur runs VERY nicely! I see that one can run Excalibur on AC; I will run them on DCEP.


----------



## Brento

I bought a vice off ebay for 32$ total cleaned up pretty good i would say. I also bought a 2" dial indicator and a reamer index case. Last but not least a new box to put those gage blocks in that i posted earlier. The seller refunded 17$ for the mishap. She was very rude but i was taught to be humble so i just let it go.


----------



## Brento

My one question is has anyone seen a vice like that before?


----------



## FOMOGO

I thought that was SOP in the shop, for non-severed limb incidents.  Wraping in tissue and pulling on a glove works well too. Mike



ttabbal said:


> It might have been due to using a paper towel and duct tape to do it...


----------



## NCjeeper

Arrived this morning.


----------



## francist

Brento said:


> has anyone seen a vice like that before?


I have not, but it’s a clever design. The moving jaw slides on the outer rails, the dog in the centre drops into position anywhere along the way, and then pressure is applied via the sliding rack in the centre. Kind of like the quick acting vise on my Keller power hacksaw but a little more sophisticated. Could make for an interesting project to build one...

-frank


----------



## Superburban

The Carolina metal bandsaw has a somewhat similar setup. Super convient, you just need to tighten or loosen the screw a little, the rest is done by moving the vise side.


----------



## Brento

Unfortunately the vise has some play. Whenever i tighten it the movable jaw raises up.


----------



## brino

NCjeeper said:


> Arrived this morning.


Congratulations!

....but what do they unload one of those with?


----------



## NCjeeper

I had a rollback wrecker come. He backed up to the trailer and I pulled the forklift onto his bed. He then pulled forward and tilted the bed down and I drove off.


----------



## schmidty13

brino said:


> Congratulations!
> 
> ....but what do they unload one of those with?



Good excuse to buy a crane!!


----------



## NCjeeper

schmidty13 said:


> Good excuse to buy a crane!!


Not currently in the budget.


----------



## Suzuki4evr

NCjeeper said:


> Arrived this morning.
> View attachment 362182


I have a question. Is this meant for a hobby shop or full on workshop? I ask this with envy in my heart


----------



## NCjeeper

Suzuki4evr said:


> Is this meant for a hobby shop or full on workshop?


Both.


----------



## erikmannie

I was just sitting down to spend the whole day stick welding, and I got called in to work on a Saturday. When I came home, I spent just under the day’s net earnings on...(wait for it)...40 lbs. of 1/8” Lincoln Excalibur 7018 direct from Harris Welding Supplies (rather than the eBay arbitage route). 

Sometimes I knowingly choose to buy from an eBay arbitage seller because I would rather spend an extra few dollars than have to fill in my shipping & credit card info on a website that I’ve never used before.

Harris Welding Supplies didn’t charge me tax or shipping, so it was only $128 for 40 lbs.


----------



## FOMOGO

Good looking forklift, mine is still sitting on the lift waiting for me to get to it. It's first in line when the shop is done. Mike


----------



## Cheeseking

Sweet. Looks like you have more than one... I would love a forklift too bad shop is in a basement lol. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Cheeseking

Carbide countersinks..







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## projectnut

I added a few more tools to the metrology tool inventory this weekend.  Among them were 5 Federal .0001" dial and test indicators, a dozen rods for spare parts and to extend the range  of the Starrett 124 inside micrometer to 10", and an O Ring gauge.

The o ring gauge is unique in that I've never seen a 1 piece one that covers the range from 1/4" to 5".   The ones I've seen and used in the past usually are separate items with one going from 1/4" to about 3", and a second going around 5", and a third or 4th with even larger sizes.  This one has an overall height in excess of 20"

Over the years I've noticed Federal indicators seem to go for a fraction of the price of Starrett, Mitutoyo, B&S, and other more popular brands.  I'm not sure why in that they seem to be just as accurate.  I do have several of the afore mentioned brands as well as over a dozen Federal units.  They all seem to work equally well.  Does anyone have insight as to why the huge difference in price between the brands?

Here's a picture of the "unique O Ring gauge.  It looks more like something out of a proctologists office.


----------



## FOMOGO

Don't think I will be visiting your proctologist. He must have interned under Dr. Evil. Cheers, Mike


----------



## NCjeeper

Cheeseking said:


> Sweet. Looks like you have more than one...


Yeah. I bought the newer one to replace the older one. Will be posting the older one on Craigslist soon.


----------



## FOMOGO

Well for some unknown reason, just couldn't pass this up. 1961 Case combine for $400. Will be using hyd. cyl., control valve, and pump for my frame jig/welding table build, and many of the pulley's, linkages, gear reducers, bearings, etc. for other shop projects, and much of the rest for future metal sculptures. should be able to recoup most, or all of my investment selling off the wheels and tires, which are in good shape, and possibly some of the other parts. Had to unload the Isuzu free-be from the trailer so I can pick up the combine head assembly latter this week. The ex-owner will be hauling the main part for me, as his trailer is a foot wider than mine. Cheers, Mike


----------



## francist

Love that view from around your place...


----------



## WobblyHand

Just received a couple of items in the past few days.  About a dozen assorted drill bits to replace some of the mangled and missing bits from my drill index boxes, some M8 x 35 set screws to repair my mill vise, a nice Huot drill index for my growing, but sparse collection of shorty drills, a bunch of telescopic rectangular boxes for miscellaneous taps, bits and tooling,  and a set of short parallels for my toolmaker's vise.  The cheapo 6" HF parallels would tend to fall off the 3 inch toolmakers vise.  Thought the toolmaker's vise deserved a little more love and respect.  I'm quite impressed with the Huot drill index box.  Quite the step up from Harbor Freight...  At the rate I'm going, it will take a while to fill that index.


----------



## hotrats

Picked up these adjustable reamers, taper reamers, chisels, center drills, Starrett pin vise, B&S 2 inch scale, fish tail, taps, tap handle, dies, allen wrenches, and some things gotta figure out what they are for $20. Oh, appears to be all USA stuff although some has seen better days.


----------



## pontiac428

projectnut said:


> Over the years I've noticed Federal indicators seem to go for a fraction of the price of Starrett, Mitutoyo, B&S, and other more popular brands.  I'm not sure why in that they seem to be just as accurate.  I do have several of the afore mentioned brands as well as over a dozen Federal units.  They all seem to work equally well.  Does anyone have insight as to why the huge difference in price between the brands?


Karl Marx was a brilliant economist who spent his life trying to describe how economy works in a world with new technology.  His descriptions tend to be concise, scientific, and able to pass the rigor and scrutiny of his peers.  He was also puzzled by the phenomenon that you are pondering, and lays it out fairly early in his book, Capital.  If all of the instruments work the same and are of the same quality, how does one account for the difference in value?  Why is this difference in value variable from one person to the next, and why does it exist in the broader picture?  He decided it must be something in each person that drives it, some sort of irrational peculiarity about (in this case) the brand name associated with it.  He decides it's fetishistic, an attraction that an individual has to something that isn't explained by any real-world property.  The term he uses for that difference in price, beyond the physical value, is fetish value.  So, Mitutoyo and B&S, et. al. have a higher fetish value than Federal.

I'm sorta guilty of that with my instruments.  I view Starrett as nicely made, but uninteresting and available by the truckload.  I prize European quality, like Sühl and Tesa.  For me, the fetish value applied to the Euro gauges is easily 20% over the top of the equivalent Starrett.  The next guy to read this might think differently.  You really gotta hand it to Marx for wrapping his head around it so that difference in value can be accounted for.  Something to think about next time you get outbid on eBay!


----------



## Shootymacshootface

$30 ea for these 3 L00 back plates and L00 drive plate. This guy has a lot of stuff for sale at hobbyist prices. I will post some details on Whoops Craigslist thread.
Two of the back plates are Buck's!


----------



## hman

FOMOGO said:


> 1961 Case combine for $400.


<snip>


FOMOGO said:


> The ex-owner will be hauling the main part for me, as his trailer is a foot wider than mine. Cheers, Mike


WOWSERS!  $400 and delivery!  The suckage meter is durn near hitting the peg here.


----------



## Shootymacshootface

Shootymacshootface said:


> $30 ea for these 3 L00 back plates and L00 drive plate. This guy has a lot of stuff for sale at hobbyist prices. I will post some details on Whoops Craigslist thread.
> Two of the back plates are Buck's!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 362440


I see that vtcnc already started a thread on this listing.


----------



## Gaffer

Shootymacshootface said:


> I see that vtcnc already started a thread on this listing.


I'm terrible at searching the site and can't find the post. I'm quite interested because my Colchester lathe uses L00. I've seen good stuff on ebay, but the prices have kept me from pulling the trigger. Thanks


----------



## brino

Gaffer said:


> I'm terrible at searching the site and can't find the post. I'm quite interested because my Colchester lathe uses L00. I've seen good stuff on ebay, but the prices have kept me from pulling the trigger. Thanks



I think it's this one:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/large-chucks-southern-new-hampshire.92070/


----------



## Shootymacshootface

Gaffer said:


> I'm terrible at searching the site and can't find the post. I'm quite interested because my Colchester lathe uses L00. I've seen good stuff on ebay, but the prices have kept me from pulling the trigger. Thanks


Sorry, I bought all of the L00 stuff, except for a 15" faceplate.


----------



## Shootymacshootface

brino said:


> I think it's this one:
> https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/large-chucks-southern-new-hampshire.92070/


Yes, this is it.
There were a lot of plain back chucks as well. An interesting chuck he has is an 8" (I think) 3 jaw independent plain back.


----------



## Gaffer

Shootymacshootface said:


> Sorry, I bought all of the L00 stuff, except for a 15" faceplate.


No worries. You scored!


----------



## Dhal22

pontiac428 said:


> Karl Marx was a brilliant economist who spent his life trying to describe how economy works in a world with new technology.  His descriptions tend to be concise, scientific, and able to pass the rigor and scrutiny of his peers.  He was also puzzled by the phenomenon that you are pondering, and lays it out fairly early in his book, Capital.  If all of the instruments work the same and are of the same quality, how does one account for the difference in value?  Why is this difference in value variable from one person to the next, and why does it exist in the broader picture?  He decided it must be something in each person that drives it, some sort of irrational peculiarity about (in this case) the brand name associated with it.  He decides it's fetishistic, an attraction that an individual has to something that isn't explained by any real-world property.  The term he uses for that difference in price, beyond the physical value, is fetish value.  So, Mitutoyo and B&S, et. al. have a higher fetish value than Federal.
> 
> I'm sorta guilty of that with my instruments.  I view Starrett as nicely made, but uninteresting and available by the truckload.  I prize European quality, like Sühl and Tesa.  For me, the fetish value applied to the Euro gauges is easily 20% over the top of the equivalent Starrett.  The next guy to read this might think differently.  You really gotta hand it to Marx for wrapping his head around it so that difference in value can be accounted for.  Something to think about next time you get outbid on eBay!




Now I gotta go freshen up on Marx.


----------



## Badabinski

I ordered a Tool-Flo FLSR-62 tool holder and some 3mm radius carbide inserts from a local place in December for a project. I got the inserts a couple of months ago, but I hadn't heard anything about the tool holder. I need the tool now, so I called them up yesterday asking for a status update. They saw that the order had been sitting for months and immediately apologized and offered to overnight a holder to me. I accepted, and I got the new holder at 8 AM the next day. I should have called earlier!

Here's the tool holder (not that exciting):



(This is the project, btw. I've already posted about it in a different thread, so I won't go into any details here: 



)


----------



## WobblyHand

I didn't get an endmill with 1.5" LOC, at least so far today.  UPS says they delivered it this morning.  Since I was home at the alleged delivery time, and my office has a direct view of the front entrance, I can say it was NOT delivered at the time they stated.  I can see (and hear) the truck from the window (if it is there...). Hoping it is just a misdelivery rather than a fat-finger job.  Have contacted the seller.  I walked around the house looking at all the doorways and any weird place that the driver could have put the small package but no luck.

What makes it odd was there was no notification of an upcoming delivery, which I usually get.  Today, I have some other stuff from McMaster coming - I got notification of delivery for that.  Seller's listing was for FedEx delivery, but shipped UPS?  Tracking number is a UPS and UPS "claims" delivery to my front door.  My office on the second floor is right over the front door, I'd be surprised if I could miss a delivery.  There's a picket fence gate in the front with a cannon ball closer (ala Williamsburg, VA) the sound is quite distinct, it's hard to miss...  Oh well, got to wait it out...  At least I'll get my stuff from McMaster - they are as reliable as daylight.

Supplier got back to me.  Mis-delivered to someone else.  The supplier was contacted by the mis-deliveree.  Hope to get it soon. 

This house has been here since 1851. And today UPS couldn't find it?  Yesterday they found the house, and last week...

Edit: All has ended well, my neighbor has delivered the box to me.  UPS sent it to the correct address on the label.  Somehow the supplier used the wrong address?  Don't know how that happened, but that's probably the reason for the lack of  UPS notification.  Mystery solved.  
5 Flute 3/8 x 3/8 x 1-1/2 x 4 carbide end mill AlTiN coated.


----------



## WobblyHand

McMaster came through with some telescopic boxes that will fit ER32's, some 1/2" ball bearings (to repair my milling vise), a 1/2" spherical single cut burr (to clean up the vise where the 1/2 ball goes) and some steel tubing that I'm hoping to press fit the ball(s) into.  Found some 0.495" ID tubing.  Probably will thin it out to 0.498-0.499 near the lip and attempt to press the ball into it.  Then I'll attempt to crimp the tubing over the diameter a little.  Hope that will hold it well enough to grind.  If not, I'll try something else!


----------



## erikmannie

I couldn’t take it anymore worrying about welding with overmoistened 7018 rods. For years, I have used 5-10 lb. packs or cans, but I never finish the pack (or can) within 9 hours. Anyway, I finally bought a rod oven. It holds 10 lbs. I got the 110V model.



			https://www.lincolnelectric.com/assets/US/EN/literature/e14701.pdf


----------



## Braeden P

how many hot dogs can you cook with that!


----------



## pontiac428

300F at only 75 watts? That's an efficient puppy!


----------



## rabler

60" Machinists straight-edge with a 45 side.  Let the scraping begin!


----------



## Superburban

Have no need for it, and will likely never use this, but it was cute. Picked up this at the local Goodwill today.

The red section of the handle will pivot 90 degs to either side. The chuck end will pivot about 135 degs either way. Allowing for some interesting, and likely useless combinations. But still cute.


----------



## projectnut

Superburban said:


> Have no need for it, and will likely never use this, but it was cute. Picked up this at the local Goodwill today.
> 
> The red section of the handle will pivot 90 degs to either side. The chuck end will pivot about 135 degs either way. Allowing for some interesting, and likely useless combinations. But still cute.


My grandfather was a cabinet maker and used this style drill on a daily basis.  I still have a couple in his tool box in the basement.  I haven't used them since I was about 12 years old.  They're interesting and unique, but not as practical as they once were.  I much prefer a battery powered cordless drill these days.


----------



## macardoso

rabler said:


> 60" Machinists straight-edge with a 45 side.  Let the scraping begin!
> 
> View attachment 362658


I am shopping all over for one of these (albeit a smaller 18 or 24" one). I can't express the jealousy I have right now


----------



## FOMOGO

That's one of the things I love about living in a dry climate. I have a 50lb tin of 7018 that has been sitting out open for at least 20yrs. Always runs just fine when I use it. Mike



erikmannie said:


> I couldn’t take it anymore worrying about welding with overmoistened 7018 rods.


----------



## PancakeCritter

Vintage Asian lathe from a local estate sale. What a bargain!


----------



## WobblyHand

PancakeCritter said:


> Vintage Asian lathe from a local estate sale. What a bargain!


Needs pictures or it didn't happen!  Unwritten rule...


----------



## PancakeCritter

WobblyHand said:


> Needs pictures or it didn't happen!  Unwritten rule...









It seem unethical to admit how much I paid for it.

Also, I now know this particular lathe was sold by everyone under the sun in the 80's, but I haven't seen any through Crown. Really put me on a hunt to find details on it initially.


----------



## rabler

macardoso said:


> I am shopping all over for one of these (albeit a smaller 18 or 24" one). I can't express the jealousy I have right now


dgfoster on Practical Machinist casts a 18" and 26". You can buy them from him either stress releaved casting or milled. You would need to scrape it in to final flatness yourself. I have an 18" casting from him and quite pleased. If you follow the link, that thread includes a YouTube video on his work.


----------



## macardoso

PancakeCritter said:


> It seem unethical to admit how much I paid for it.
> 
> Also, I now know this particular lathe was sold by everyone under the sun in the 80's, but I haven't seen any through Crown. Really put me on a hunt to find details on it initially.


Thats a near copy of the Grizzly G9249 and Enco 110-2033. LMK if you have questions or need a parts list. I've torn mine down to the bones before.


----------



## macardoso

rabler said:


> dgfoster on Practical Machinist casts a 18" and 26". You can buy them from him either stress releaved casting or milled. You would need to scrape it in to final flatness yourself. I have an 18" casting from him and quite pleased. If you follow the link, that thread includes a YouTube video on his work.



Thanks! Do you have any idea what he charges for those straightedges? I'll probably reach out to him, but im comparing against the Core Print Castings 18" dovetail prism ($100) or the Martin Model 24" camelback straightedge ($250)


----------



## PancakeCritter

macardoso said:


> Thats a near copy of the Grizzly G9249 and Enco 110-2033. LMK if you have questions or need a parts list. I've torn mine down to the bones before.



Edit: Just realized it was your rebuild I was drooling over yesterday. I plan to order some parts from Grizzly to repair the power feed.

I think I realized that yesterday! I really could use some help with the contactor wiring. Mine have a few wires disconnected. I'm embarrassed to admit I can't seem to make sense of it, even with the wiring diagram.

I made a post about it over here: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/1984-crown-lathe-honden-wiring-help-please.92152/


----------



## rabler

macardoso said:


> Thanks! Do you have any idea what he charges for those straightedges? I'll probably reach out to him, but im comparing against the Core Print Castings 18" dovetail prism ($100) or the Martin Model 24" camelback straightedge ($250)


I think he quotes $275 for the 26",  and $197.50 for the 18" sold through eBay.  Sounds like you have better pricing.


----------



## macardoso

PancakeCritter said:


> Edit: Just realized it was your rebuild I was drooling over yesterday. I plan to order some parts from Grizzly to repair the power feed.
> 
> I think I realized that yesterday! I really could use some help with the contactor wiring. Mine have a few wires disconnected. I'm embarrassed to admit I can't seem to make sense of it, even with the wiring diagram.
> 
> I made a post about it over here: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/1984-crown-lathe-honden-wiring-help-please.92152/


I'll PM you so we don't sidetrack the thread


----------



## Papa Charlie

PancakeCritter said:


> It seem unethical to admit how much I paid for it.
> 
> Also, I now know this particular lathe was sold by everyone under the sun in the 80's, but I haven't seen any through Crown. Really put me on a hunt to find details on it initially.


I assume you have the manual. If not you can download it from Grizzly or I could send you a copy.


----------



## FOMOGO

Got this 3" face mill, and arbor from Bang Good. $80 delivered. Took about a week to get. Any recommendations on feed, and speed rates on steel. Looks to be nicely made. Hope it works as good as it looks. Will probably be a while until I get to try it out. Mike


----------



## DavidR8

I have the four-cutter version of that and it's amazing.


----------



## FOMOGO

That's good to hear. Someone posted on these a while back. Was it you David? Anywho, that's what prompted me to take a look, and order. Cheers, Mike


----------



## Janderso

DavidR8 said:


> I have the four-cutter version of that and it's amazing.
> View attachment 362880


Those are handy as they will cut a 90. (right?)
Isn't the finish amazing on a proper face mill!!


----------



## DavidR8

Janderso said:


> Those are handy as they will cut a 90. (right?)
> Isn't the finish amazing on a proper face mill!!


Yup, mine will cut 90 deg shoulders. I was a bit concerned about my round column mill being stiff enough to manage but it does just fine on both steel and 6061. Plus with the straight shank I just put it in a MT collet so so there's minimal stickout. Works like a charm, throws chips everywhere though


----------



## Doug Gray

Today I picked up 

Starrett Protractor head #12
Starrett 12" rule
Starrett 6" rule #13
Starrett combination head
centre finding head that I believe to be Starrett but it is unmarked
This was all one lot on my local Kijiji. I payed up, but i'm happy to have them.

Does anybody know what is the best method to remove any slight staining on the rules?

Thanks for looking.

Cool stuff at my store 









						Kits For The Home Shop Machinist/Tinkerer
					

Kits for the home shop machinist. Hi my name is Doug Gray thanks for stopping by my shop. I'm am the sole proprietor of D. Gray Drafting and Design. I lovingly create all the kits you see here in my shop. Everything from creating the drawing to assembling all the materials and packaging them up...



					d-gray-drafting-and-design.myshopify.com


----------



## Papa Charlie

Joe065 said:


> Today I picked up
> 
> Starrett Protractor head #12
> Starrett 12" rule
> Starrett 6" rule #13
> Starrett combination head
> centre finding head that I believe to be Starrett but it is unmarked
> This was all one lot on my local Kijiji. I payed up, but i'm happy to have them.
> 
> Does anybody know what is the best method to remove any slight staining on the rules?
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Cool stuff at my store
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kits For The Home Shop Machinist/Tinkerer
> 
> 
> Kits for the home shop machinist. Hi my name is Doug Gray thanks for stopping by my shop. I'm am the sole proprietor of D. Gray Drafting and Design. I lovingly create all the kits you see here in my shop. Everything from creating the drawing to assembling all the materials and packaging them up...
> 
> 
> 
> d-gray-drafting-and-design.myshopify.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 362896


I purchased a set of Starrett Telescoping Gauges last year that had similar staining on them. I used these Miracle All Purpose Polishing cloths that I purchased on Amazon. They made them look like they were brand new in very short order. Original saw them on Abom79 and decided to try them. Amazing results with very little effort. Just cut a small piece from one of the cloths and rub. They turn black and regardless of the amount of black, the small cuts continue to work.



			https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VX8DMKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
		


Here is the thread where I posted the before and after of my telescoping gauge clean up. 









						What Did You Buy Today?
					

The local scrap yard sells “stainless” (anything a magnet doesn’t stick to and isn’t aluminum) for $1/lb and anything ferrous for $0.40/lb. I got a lot of barstock from them. A little weather worn, and good in the middle. This is about 300 pounds of material to turn into scrap and chips.  The 3"...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## Doug Gray

Thanks for your response Papa.

Your link now says that the product is not available. I checked with Amazon.ca and found a quagmire of crazy shipping cost and super long delivery dates.
I see the product mentions coconut oil, hmmm... Wife has a big tub.....

Maybe Ill try coconut oil and a micro fiber cloth Can't see it doing any harm.

Just checked with SWMBO and turns out the huge tub of coconut oil has expired so here goes.
Don't get me started on huge quantities of stuff from Costco grrrr....

Well 30 minutes later and the rule stains maybe slightly better but I can't recommend straight coconut oil.

On the other hand my square now smells delicious. and I have a hankering for a Bounty bar.


----------



## pontiac428

Fine steel wool might be a good option. That Costco vat of coconut oil would be well-served as cutting oil, if you like Mounds/Almond Joy. It's about the highest temperature natural oil out there.


----------



## Papa Charlie

@Joe065

I went to Amazon and did a search for "Miracle Polishing Cloth with Coconut Oil" found plenty still available.






						Amazon.com: Miracle All Purpose Polishing Cloth, 12" Largest Size Available: Home & Kitchen
					

Amazon.com: Miracle All Purpose Polishing Cloth, 12" Largest Size Available: Home & Kitchen



					www.amazon.com
				




Here is the one of the links. Not sure if it is because you are in Canada or not. The cloths are made by a company that restores guitars. It is good for wood, metal and other materials. I hope you can find some, because these cloths are short of amazing.


----------



## FOMOGO

UPS dropped this off yesterday. Had borrowed one from my neighbor when my 3/4" pneumatic wouldn't take off some of the lug nuts on one of my larger trucks. He said they bought it for on the road flats on the dump trucks, and it was as  powerful as their big 1" air gun. Gave it a go, and I was amazed, so I treated myself. 1000 lbft tightening, and 1400 coming off, think this will become my new go to for the shop. No cords, or air hoses to mess with, and fairly light weight. Think i will get there 4 1/2" grinder now that I have the battery's, and charger. Mike


----------



## Aaron_W

My fetish for small lathes has led to another one falling into my clutches. I've told my wife the growing collection of little lathes is for science.   

I've been looking for a decent example of the Atlas 618 or Craftsman 6" lathe at a reasonable price (I consider $200-800 reasonable depending on condition / tooling). 

Very much a want rather than a need it has taken some patience as I usually find them in poor shape or with a wildly optimistic price tag (saw one earlier this year fairly close by but asking $2200  ). Usually when I do see them at a good price they are gone before I can get there.
Yesterday I found this Craftsman 101.21400 3 hours away but being offered at what I considered a fair price plus it came with a box of goodies. Based on the serial number I'm guessing it was made about 1970. It does have a few issues that will need to be addressed, but overall is in pretty nice shape for being about 50 years old. 

The seller said he bought it about 25 years ago, but hasn't used it much in recent years and thought it was time to find it a new home.





It came with all the basic tooling plus the elusive milling attachment. 





BTW these Harbor Freight platform carts are great for moving stuff around the shop. This is the smaller $30 cart and it can handle 300lbs, the handle folds down flat so they take up very little space when not in use.


----------



## Aukai

Mike I think the Fuel impact is great, I also have the dual mode flood lamp AC, or battery. The plug in mode does not charg the battery when connected though.


			https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2360-20-Trueview-Flood-Light/dp/B017Y7SUIA/ref=asc_df_B017Y7SUIA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198058458227&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6804333618067744339&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032767&hvtargid=pla-541337027912&psc=1


----------



## hman

@Joe065 - The coconut oil is not the "active ingredient."  As far as I can tell, it's just the carrier for the abrasive - possibly extremely fine aluminum oxide or something similar.  

@Papa Charlie - Thanks for the Amazon link.  I ordered two sizes of the Miracle cloth.  Also remembered an "old friend" from my basic training days - Blitz cloth.  Lo and behold ... it's still around!





						Amazon.com: Blitz Metal Care Original Cloth”, 2 Pack
					

Shop Blitz at the Amazon Arts, Crafts & Sewing store. Free Shipping on eligible items. Save on everyday low prices.



					www.amazon.com


----------



## Badabinski

I bought a Harbor Freight 44" tool chest online a couple of weeks ago. It arrived a couple of days ago, but today was the first time the weather was nice enough for me to move it out to my shop.

I'm pretty pleased with it! Harbor Freight doesn't lube the drawer slides enough, but 20 minutes with a grease gun full of SuperLube fixed that. I'm excited to finally work on decluttering my shop!


----------



## erikmannie

At my job, Saturdays are voluntary. My wife says that if I go in & work on a Saturday I can spend the net earnings on fun stuff.

I went in to work today & I spent the after tax earnings on six 10 lb. cans of 3/32” Lincoln Electric Fleetweld 5P+. This is E6010, ya know.

I don’t like the 50 lb cans because I like my stick electrodes to be as fresh as possible. Both the 10 lb. and 50 lb. cans have a vacuum seal pop top. The 10 lb. cans (see pic below) have a red lid for the can after you open it. The 50 lb. cans, however, do not have such a lid (that I have ever seen).




I am planning on working a few more Saturdays to get some 1/8” 6010, as well as 1/8” and 5/32” 7018. 

Moving forward, I am only going to use the Fleetweld 5P+ and Excalibur 7018MR.


----------



## Papa Charlie

@Badabinski

I have run out of places to put my tools and have been looking at the smaller version of these General tool boxes. I would be very interested in your or anyone's opinion of them once they are loaded and have been used for a while. I was thinking of their 26"x22 " Series 2 model. The idea is to eventually have a several of them so they are task/machine orientated. Otherwise I would go for the larger one like you got.


----------



## jwmelvin

I have one of those and love it. It’s definitely nicer than my other boxes, which are nothing-special Craftsman.

I recently replaced the casters with a set of four swivels and it is so much better for me now. In the future I will not add something to my shop with fixed wheels.


----------



## BGHansen

I have a couple of the 26" x 22" roller cabinets with the top box.  They are great, frankly take them over a Craftsman or Kennedy hands down.  I also have 3 of the 30" 5-drawer mechanic's carts.  Their carts/cabinets are one of the best products they sell.

Bruce


----------



## john.oliver35

BGHansen said:


> I have a couple of the 26" x 22" roller cabinets with the top box.  They are great, frankly take them over a Craftsman or Kennedy hands down.  I also have 3 of the 30" 5-drawer mechanic's carts.  Their carts/cabinets are one of the best products they sell.
> 
> Bruce


+++what Bruce says


----------



## Aaron_W

BGHansen said:


> I have a couple of the 26" x 22" roller cabinets with the top box.  They are great, frankly take them over a Craftsman or Kennedy hands down.  I also have 3 of the 30" 5-drawer mechanic's carts.  Their carts/cabinets are one of the best products they sell.
> 
> Bruce



Agree, I have a 26, 44 and a 5 drawer cart that I am quite happy with. The chests hold most of my machine tooling as well as providing a base for my Sherline lathe and mill.


----------



## NCjeeper

Papa Charlie said:


> @Badabinski
> 
> I have run out of places to put my tools and have been looking at the smaller version of these General tool boxes. I would be very interested in your or anyone's opinion of them once they are loaded and have been used for a while. I was thinking of their 26"x22 " Series 2 model. The idea is to eventually have a several of them so they are task/machine orientated. Otherwise I would go for the larger one like you got.
> 
> View attachment 363021


I have the blue versions in 26" and 44". Both loaded down with tooling. Both have been working great. As Bruce mentioned one of HF's best products they sell. You can't go wrong with these.


----------



## Ianagos

Another big plus to the harbor freight. It’s probably the nicest box I have. Out of Kennedy, husky, craftsman, and some other name brand (around $2000) box. It’s definitely the nicest no doubt. And my brother got me a scratch and dent model and paid only $300 for the 44” version.


----------



## BGHansen

Finally got my DoAll 16" bandsaw up and running.  The saw has a blade welder, I had no issues welding up some 1/4" and 1/2" blades, started stocking up various blade widths and teeth per inch coils.  I have a HF 7" x 12" horizontal/vertical, and a Craftsman 12" wood bandsaw.  The DoAll is replacing the Craftsman and gives me the option of slowing it down for steel or speeding it up for wood.  The stock here ranges from 1/2"-3 tpi (looks WICKED), to 1/4"-32 tpi.  I had a really good score on eBay for 3 of the coils, won them for $22 including shipping.  The others were in the $20 - $50 range.  Should be all set for a while.  I figured the extremes were good to have:  1/2"-3 and 1/2"-6 for wood, 1/2"-24 for 1/8" steel or aluminum, 1/4"-32 for 20-gauge steel and thicker, 1/4"-6 for wood (plus a couple of duplicates).

Bruce


----------



## John Pell

Picked up a Seneca Falls 'Star' lathe No.30 over the weekend. I could not post since it takes a day to get registered. This is my first post.

The lathe included a 3 jaw chuck w/2 sets of jaws, 1 hp 120/208 single phase motor w/all the required pulleys, tail stock w/2 drill chucks, 11 gears and a handful of cutting bits and the original legs.  Everything works and the ways have minimal ware. The owner had it for 30 years in his garage for making random parts for his Harley. It was never abused. A good cleaning is all it requires and it's ready to go.

It cost me $350 plus i got about 12- 6 foot lengths of stainless 1/4 thru 1/2 inch for an extra $25.

Im planning on restoring it over the summer with maybe a few mods.


----------



## John Pell

Spelling correction


----------



## DiscoDan

Just bought two things at auction tonight, a Harvey Butterfly die filer and a Lexipro MiniRhino hydrodynamic bar feeder. Don't need either one so they will be for sale eventually.


----------



## Nogoingback

Badabinski said:


> I bought a Harbor Freight 44" tool chest online a couple of weeks ago. It arrived a couple of days ago, but today was the first time the weather was nice enough for me to move it out to my shop.
> 
> I'm pretty pleased with it! Harbor Freight doesn't lube the drawer slides enough, but 20 minutes with a grease gun full of SuperLube fixed that. I'm excited to finally work on decluttering my shop!


I've had the same cabinet for 7-8 years now and I'm completely satisfied with it.  It's every bit as good as my 45 year old Craftsmans,
if not better.


----------



## Nogoingback

Bought a new dead blow hammer to replace the Stanley Compothane hammer that's coming apart when I use it.  There was a 
post recently about these where folks said they would fail fairly quickly, but this one lasted decades.  I hope the new one
lasts as long.


----------



## extropic

Nogoingback said:


> View attachment 363198
> 
> 
> Bought a new dead blow hammer to replace the Stanley Compothane hammer that's coming apart when I use it.  There was a
> post recently about these where folks said they would fail fairly quickly, but this one lasted decades.  I hope the new one
> lasts as long.


The Stanley hammer has a lifetime warrantee.
The old formulation of plastic, over time, would become brittle and crack with little provocation.
Take it to a Stanley distributor and they should replace it.
My local tool dealer didn't have the size in stock so I had to wait a while, but the new one did arrive.


----------



## DavidR8

BGHansen said:


> Finally got my DoAll 16" bandsaw up and running.  The saw has a blade welder, I had no issues welding up some 1/4" and 1/2" blades, started stocking up various blade widths and teeth per inch coils.  I have a HF 7" x 12" horizontal/vertical, and a Craftsman 12" wood bandsaw.  The DoAll is replacing the Craftsman and gives me the option of slowing it down for steel or speeding it up for wood.  The stock here ranges from 1/2"-3 tpi (looks WICKED), to 1/4"-32 tpi.  I had a really good score on eBay for 3 of the coils, won them for $22 including shipping.  The others were in the $20 - $50 range.  Should be all set for a while.  I figured the extremes were good to have:  1/2"-3 and 1/2"-6 for wood, 1/2"-24 for 1/8" steel or aluminum, 1/4"-32 for 20-gauge steel and thicker, 1/4"-6 for wood (plus a couple of duplicates).
> 
> Bruce
> 
> 
> View attachment 363153


I was curious how the cost compares to premade blades. I've thought about TIG welding blades because I sometimes run across bulk blade stock. I pay about $30 blade for a 93" blade.


----------



## BGHansen

My saw takes 10' blades, so 10 from a standard 100' coil.  I paid $50 including shipping for a full coil of 1/4"-6 tooth so $5 a blade.  A single blade for my saw goes for $20 - $40 on eBay.  My HF horizontal takes 3/4" wide blades that run around $15-$20 each, so I'll be looking for a coil for it also.

Bruce

p.s.  I've seen loose DoAll blade welders for sale at around $250-$300 which pays for a lot of blades.  They last a long time, not in the same category of carbide inserts on the lathe.  One of my "must-haves" when searching for a combo saw was that it had a blade welder.


----------



## Nogoingback

extropic said:


> The Stanley hammer has a lifetime warrantee.
> The old formulation of plastic, over time, would become brittle and crack with little provocation.
> Take it to a Stanley distributor and they should replace it.
> My local tool dealer didn't have the size in stock so I had to wait a while, but the new one did arrive.


Thanks for the tip!  I just called Stanley customer service and they've sent me a shipping label to
return it for warranty replacement.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

got this little beauty from Amazon for $20



it's bloody small! Also found out after I clicked BUY that the inserts (WCMT/WCGT 1.21) are not easy to find and a pack will easily cost me more than the bar  Still, the fact that the retail on this is ~$350 cheered me up a bit...


----------



## Dave Smith

just needed a new old tool so I bought an old die filer from a friend for his asking price of $30. just came with one file so I will have to find some more. it doesn't have a brand name on it that I could find but maybe others who have filers can tell me the brand. it is a nice looking filer for my shop.
Dave


----------



## Papa Charlie

Dave Smith said:


> just needed a new old tool so I bought an old die filer from a friend for his asking price of $30. just came with one file so I will have to find some more. it doesn't have a brand name on it that I could find but maybe others who have filers can tell me the brand. it is a nice looking filer for my shop.
> Dave


Very nice, I wish I could find one in that price range. Everyone around me wants a fortune for them. 

I think this got you today's "You Suck" award.


----------



## Dave Smith

yes, I was happy that he asked another old friend if he wanted to buy it while I was with him. he said no and I said I would gladly give him the $30. he is 92 years old and my other friend just turned 90, so neither one of them needed it. I had to carry it down from an upstairs shop and it was real heavy for a 77 yr old to get to my truck. funny how we always get the job done.
Dave


----------



## Gaffer

Dave Smith said:


> just needed a new old tool so I bought an old die filer from a friend for his asking price of $30. just came with one file so I will have to find some more. it doesn't have a brand name on it that I could find but maybe others who have filers can tell me the brand. it is a nice looking filer for my shop.
> Dave


I found this on The Practical Machinist site. Yours looks like a DoALL brand.




__





						All American die filer
					

These seem to be fairly common. They also seem to be the made the latest judging by things like the sheet steel legs and the number of machines on PM



					www.practicalmachinist.com


----------



## 682bear

That is an All-American die filer... they were also sold under the Do-All name.

I have one of the Do-All filers that I refurbished a while back...
	

		
			
		

		
	




-Bear


----------



## FliesLikeABrick

Picked up a Walker-Turner 15" drill press at an auction for a closed-down coal power plant in my region.  This caught my eye because it has the proper "production" table with slots (unfortunately not full t-slots).  Got it pretty cheap ($125) , the other unit in the auction went for over $300 despite having a weird modified table on it.  I think this is a 1216-41 because it does not look like it has a MT spindle, it does have the production table, and I think it has the standard-speed step pulleys.  This is based on the 1953 1200-series spec sheet at http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/808/6112.pdf

This unit clearly has years of service on it, and was covered in dust since it was out in the plant - perhaps this is why the other one went cheaper.  3-phase motor, so I will need to put a small VFD on it.  Should clean up nicely.

The only picture available in the auction lot:




Loaded in the trailer with some other items from the auction (had to make 2 trips for two of the large pressure tanks):



Unloaded at home, hit with the airgun to get the dry/loose dust and grime off but proper disassembly/cleaning/lube is needed:



Placard:



Motor placard 1/2 hp 3ph:



I don't need another drill press, but this goes too nicely with my Rockwell 21-100 mill and my BUX magdrill that has a Rockwell drill unit on it...


----------



## mattthemuppet2

ooh, that's nice! I have one just like that but slightly older and no belt guard. I've used it a lot over the last 8 or 9 years. Having a 3ph motor and VFD will be really cool - I put a DC motor on mine and the variable speed and reversing is super useful. I can drill, chamfer and tap all just by turning the dial, no belt changes needed.


----------



## 682bear

I picked this gem up this morning...










It's a little Craftsman power hacksaw... it does run pretty smooth, but may have some other issues...

I would assume that the arm should stay up when lifted... this one does not, but as it is lowering, there is a 'ratcheting' sound...

Also, do these cut on the forward stroke or the back stroke? The blade is set up to cut on the back stroke... I'd like to be sure this is correct.

I'll have to dig into it and figure out how it works...

-Bear


----------



## erikmannie

I bought three 10 lb. cans of Lincoln Electric 3/32” 5P+ and nine 10 lb. cans of Lincoln Electric 1/8” Excalibur 7018.


----------



## darkzero

Oh man, I haven't viewed this thread in a very long time! Well then again I shamefully haven't been spending much time here on H-M at all!  I need to do some catching up!


----------



## Aukai

Now wonder spending is down....


----------



## darkzero

These 2 I got a couple of months ago. I had the previous generation models. When these new ones came out I told myself, ah not worth upgrading. Time went on & then there was a sale, you know how that goes! The increase in power was actually more than I expected even though on paper it didn't sound like much, especially for the little one! And the new tri-LED lighting is sooooo much better.









This one I got last month. Again similar, had the previous Fuel model. When I saw the release for the new high speed model I told myself I don't need it. The next time I used my Fuel ratchet I was quickly reminded how I never liked how awfully slow it was. The new high speed model is of course much faster but down on torque. The torque doesn't matter much to me as I often use the ratchet manually to break free & tighten anyways. And the new high speed model has a much smaller head. This is exactly what I had hoped to have in the 1st place! Very happy with this new one!









The old impacts I gave to a good friend of mine that didn't have any. The old ratchet I gave to one of my little brothers. After I upgraded to all these, that same brother taunted me by asking if I was going to buy more batteries. Damnit, why'd he have to go and say that! I really didn't need anymore batteries but stoopid me, I had to go look, found great deals, and then you know what happened!


----------



## darkzero

A couple of new trim tools. I really love these things & highly recommend them if you do any automotive interior work. The mini pry bars were cheap & cute, had to have them.

The tool marked 4140 is called a Skin Wedge. It's made of 4140. Apparently it was originally designed for use in the aircraft industry for popping open panels or something like that. I so wish I had this tool 20 yrs ago!







This is a brand I never heard of until recently, Fix-It-Sticks. I got the ratcheting version with detachable drive. They market to cycling & shooting enthusiasts. A bit pricey but I like it a lot. Made in Taiwan.


----------



## darkzero

Finally picked me up a set of cheap ER-40 collets to use for workholding. I don't find myself using the collet chuck all that much so this has been low on the want list. Got this set from All Industrial for a great price to start, plus 10% off & free shipping, and with a wood rack.





Being a 23 pc set so it had an empty slot was perfect, now I have a place to store my oversized 1-1/8" collet. And now I can save my "good" collets for toolholding only.





And finally (for now) my new gorgeous Nepros ratchets that Ii posted a separate thread about.


----------



## FOMOGO

Got two of these Metabo (Hitachi) 4 1/2" grinders on Amazon for $39 each. Each one comes with 5 grinding wheels, which at hardware store prices is about the total cost of the grinder. Seem to be really well built, but are made in China. Oddly, the grinding wheels are made in Japan. Now have 6 good quality grinders, Milwaukee, Makita, and Metabo, and can have a different type disc on each. Must be something cosmic going on with all three starting with M. Cheers, Mike


----------



## Brento

This morning i bought a rack with material for 100$. Lots of delrin and steel.
	

		
			
		

		
	



And then i also picked up from the same place some transfer punches maybe 20 thread gages and a 1/2" ACME tap left handed and a long 6-32 tap.


----------



## NCjeeper

darkzero said:


> A couple of new trim tools. I really love these things & highly recommend them if you do any automotive interior work. The mini pry bars were cheap & cute, had to have them.
> 
> The tool marked 4140 is called a Skin Wedge. It's made of 4140. Apparently it was originally designed for use in the aircraft industry for popping open panels or something like that. I so wish I had this tool 20 yrs ago!
> 
> View attachment 363682
> 
> View attachment 363683
> 
> 
> 
> This is a brand I never heard of until recently, Fix-It-Sticks. I got the ratcheting version with detachable drive. They market to cycling & shooting enthusiasts. A bit pricey but I like it a lot. Made in Taiwan.
> 
> View attachment 363684
> 
> View attachment 363685
> 
> View attachment 363686


We call that 4140 tool superman's thumbnail.


----------



## Brento

Brento said:


> This morning i bought a rack with material for 100$. Lots of delrin and steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 363722
> 
> And then i also picked up from the same place some transfer punches maybe 20 thread gages and a 1/2" ACME tap left handed and a long 6-32 tap.
> 
> View attachment 363723


After it was all mildly separated and put back on the rack. Tons of plastics


----------



## DAM 79

darkzero said:


> These 2 I got a couple of months ago. I had the previous generation models. When these new ones came out I told myself, ah not worth upgrading. Time went on & then there was a sale, you know how that goes! The increase in power was actually more than I expected even though on paper it didn't sound like much, especially for the little one! And the new tri-LED lighting is sooooo much better.
> 
> View attachment 363674
> 
> View attachment 363675
> 
> View attachment 363676
> 
> 
> 
> This one I got last month. Again similar, had the previous Fuel model. When I saw the release for the new high speed model I told myself I don't need it. The next time I used my Fuel ratchet I was quickly reminded how I never liked how awfully slow it was. The new high speed model is of course much faster but down on torque. The torque doesn't matter much to me as I often use the ratchet manually to break free & tighten anyways. And the new high speed model has a much smaller head. This is exactly what I had hoped to have in the 1st place! Very happy with this new one!
> 
> View attachment 363677
> 
> View attachment 363678
> 
> View attachment 363679
> 
> 
> 
> The old impacts I gave to a good friend of mine that didn't have any. The old ratchet I gave to one of my little brothers. After I upgraded to all these, that same brother taunted me by asking if I was going to buy more batteries. Damnit, why'd he have to go and say that! I really didn't need anymore batteries but stoopid me, I had to go look, found great deals, and then you know what happened!
> 
> View attachment 363680
> 
> View attachment 363681


I’m a big fan of Milwaukee cordless tools I got a bunch of them as well and got this for my Girlfriend the other week because she hated the old one with the gas and oil mix


----------



## DAM 79

Got this last week


----------



## extropic

@DAM 79

Just in case you're not aware, you need to replace the thin foam layer that the mic is resting on.
I see that the thin foam is deteriorated and, in that condition, it will promote corrosion and damage the metal surfaces in contact.
That is a common problem with vintage Mitutoyo. The form fitting thicker layer seems to hold up well, but the thin layers deteriorate.
I hope the newer Mitutoyo packaging has the chemistry improved, but I don't know.
Originally, there was a thin layer in the top of the box also.
I bought a replacement foam at a craft store. It's a closed cell material, about 3/16 thick. It comes in many colors and easily available on Amazon in 2mm. Just build up layers to get the thickness you need.


----------



## DAM 79

extropic said:


> @DAM 79
> 
> Just in case you're not aware, you need to replace the thin foam layer that the mic is resting on.
> I see that the thin foam is deteriorated and, in that condition, it will promote corrosion and damage the metal surfaces in contact.
> That is a common problem with vintage Mitutoyo. The form fitting thicker layer seems to hold up well, but the thin layers deteriorate.
> I hope the newer Mitutoyo packaging has the chemistry improved, but I don't know.
> Originally, there was a thin layer in the top of the box also.
> I bought a replacement foam at a craft store. It's a closed cell material, about 3/16 thick. It comes in many colors and easily available on Amazon in 2mm. Just build up layers to get the thickness you need.


Thanks for the advice I will definitely do that !!!


----------



## .LMS.

I got this beautiful piece today for $30.   It was used by the sellers father.  I am honored to have it in my cabinet.

Etalon Height Gauge


----------



## westerner

Papa Charlie said:


> @Badabinski
> 
> I have run out of places to put my tools and have been looking at the smaller version of these General tool boxes. I would be very interested in your or anyone's opinion of them once they are loaded and have been used for a while. I was thinking of their 26"x22 " Series 2 model. The idea is to eventually have a several of them so they are task/machine orientated. Otherwise I would go for the larger one like you got.
> 
> View attachment 363021


I bought that exact box (in banana yellow, I don't know why) about 3 years ago. I filled it with machining tools that were previously searching for a permanent home. It aint full of 3/4 drive sockets, ya understand, but it has to have 100 miles on it around the shop. 

I feel it is a better made, longer lasting box than the 3 box stack of Craftsman ball bearing slide boxes of mine, purchased decades ago.


----------



## jcp

682bear said:


> I picked this gem up this morning...
> 
> View attachment 363547
> 
> 
> View attachment 363548
> 
> 
> View attachment 363549
> 
> 
> It's a little Craftsman power hacksaw... it does run pretty smooth, but may have some other issues...
> 
> I would assume that the arm should stay up when lifted... this one does not, but as it is lowering, there is a 'ratcheting' sound...
> 
> Also, do these cut on the forward stroke or the back stroke? The blade is set up to cut on the back stroke... I'd like to be sure this is correct.
> 
> I'll have to dig into it and figure out how it works...
> 
> -Bear



Sounds like the lift/drop ratchet system is out of kilter. There are still some parts available. These cut on the pull stroke. The blade frame should lift the blade up slightly on the push stroke and drop it back down on the pull stroke. Check the ratchet block and tabs on top of the two levers that engage the ratchet block. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 682bear

jcp said:


> Sounds like the lift/drop ratchet system is out of kilter. There are still some parts available. These cut on the pull stroke. The blade frame should lift the blade up slightly on the push stroke and drop it back down on the pull stroke. Check the ratchet block and tabs on top of the two levers that engage the ratchet block.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I have determined that the two hardened tabs that engage the ratchet block are about worn out. One of them is *just* long enough to engage the ratchet... but only barely...

Are these two tabs still available? Where would I be able to find parts for this saw?

I was figuring on having to attempt to make those two tabs... maybe out of a piece of the old, dull blade that is on the saw.

Thanks- Bear


----------



## jcp

That’s what I made mine from. The last time I looked at the Sears Parts site there were a few things still available....including the lift tabs and ratchet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 682bear

Ok, I'll check it out, thanks!

-Bear


----------



## DAM 79

So in addition to the the Micrometer I also ran across this lathe and I just couldn’t say no
Monarch series 60 16x30 in really good shape


----------



## Papa Charlie

DAM 79 said:


> So in addition to the the Micrometer I also ran across this lathe and I just couldn’t say no
> Monarch series 60 16x30 in really good shape



That is a beautiful lathe. Looks to be in amazingly good condition. Congratulations on the find.

Would love to have one some day.


----------



## DAM 79

Papa Charlie said:


> That is a beautiful lathe. Looks to be in amazingly good condition. Congratulations on the find.
> 
> Would love to have one some day.


So this was one of them things where I need another lathe like a hole in the head because I already have a monarch 16cy X54 but it has issues but it does all work and I got a ton of stuff with it and I saw this one on Craigslist and called the guy up on a whim and next thing you know I’m taking a trip to get another lathe this one will swing 20-1/2” and will hold 6 tenths over 16” for a machine that was made in 1948 I called that pretty good and it came with a 6-jaw buck chuck ,carriage stop ,live center and some tool holders the DRO only works in one axis,I think it’s got a bad reader hell it even has the original work light


----------



## extropic

DAM 79 said:


> So in addition to the the Micrometer I also ran across this lathe and I just couldn’t say no
> Monarch series 60 16x30 in really good shape



Congratulations on your new lathe.

@Richard King 2  posted the following link recently.
It's a vintage (May 1948), 36 page brochure on the Monarch Series 60.
It shows options and accessories that I'd never seen before.



			http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2103/19731.pdf


----------



## DAM 79

extropic said:


> @Richard King 2  posted the following link recently.
> It's a vintage (May 1948), 36 page brochure on the Monarch Series 60.
> It shows options and accessories that I'd never seen before.
> 
> 
> 
> http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2103/19731.pdf


So i called and ordered a manual as this lathe didn’t come with one another 75 bucks and I got the original build sheet for this lathe and originally it came with a collet chuck and it had a air tracer attachment and that would explain why I have another dove tail slide bolted down back behind the tool post


----------



## Jroden

Hello,
New to this forum.Just thought I would share my find for the day. Haven't had much time to go through it all but seems to be lightly used
Craftsman 101.28990 ,12 x36 Lathe in very good shape.


----------



## extropic

@DAM 79 

Great machine. I'm green with envy. I love that you can still get a manual and build sheet after 70+ years.

At first blush, it seems incongruous to me that a 20" lathe was ordered with a collet chuck. The original owner probably had a specific production purpose (which is consistent with the tracer). Making large pullies (mounted on a mandrel) for instance.

The tailstock on the Series 60 brings a smile to my face. The TS quill diameter and the mass and form of the TS body just look up to any work the headstock wants to do. It makes me smile because of the contrast between that tailstock and the typical Chicom hobby lathe (which often look like an afterthought relegated to a junior designer).

Again, Congratulations.


----------



## DAM 79

extropic said:


> @DAM 79
> 
> Great machine. I'm green with envy. I love that you can still get a manual and build sheet after 70+ years.
> 
> At first blush, it seems incongruous to me that a 20" lathe was ordered with a collet chuck. The original owner probably had a specific production purpose (which is consistent with the tracer). Making large pullies (mounted on a mandrel) for instance.
> 
> The tailstock on the Series 60 brings a smile to my face. The TS quill diameter and the mass and form of the TS body just look up to any work the headstock wants to do. It makes me smile because of the contrast between that tailstock and the typical Chicom hobby lathe (which often look like an afterthought relegated to a junior designer).
> 
> Again, Congratulations.


Thanks and yes I agree the original owner got this lathe for a specific job and or production run and that’s why it’s surprising that is in such great shape the guy I got it from said he found it not 10 mins away from where he lived and that the owner had passed away and that he got it from where he worked with that being said after I got it home and went thru it there was a few little things wrong like the saddle locking bolt was broke that was a easy fix after that it was a lot of cleaning to get it how it looks now I also fixed the coolant pump so all that works just would have to do some piping other then that everything else works fine and everything moves freely and smooth I’m still getting used to running a lathe like this I’ve never had one with this much power (it has a 10 Hp motor ) it seems like it can really take a cut and remove some material if you wanted to


----------



## mattthemuppet2

DAM 79 said:


> So in addition to the the Micrometer I also ran across this lathe and I just couldn’t say no
> Monarch series 60 16x30 in really good shape


 lovely lathe! Must have taken a bit more work to bring home than a micrometer though....


----------



## Papa Charlie

@DAM 79 
The more you tell me about her, the more I want one. I currently have a Grizzly. It works but it is not a Monarch by any means. I envy you living on the Eastern part of our country, Any of these lathes are priced ridiculously here on the West side. I need several pieces of equipment that will round out my shop upon retirement. I cannot believe how much equipment has gone up in price. It looks like I will need to take trips to the East coast to get the equipment I want at a reasonable price. Trouble is the boss (wife) wants a 5th wheel. That eliminates any hauling in the truck bed and most states don't allow two trailers.

Bottom line, I am jealous of your purchase and hope I will be able to find something similarly, priced when I retire in June of 2022.

Still, I am very glad that you were able to score what you did. Congrats.


----------



## DAM 79

mattthemuppet2 said:


> lovely lathe! Must have taken a bit more work to bring home than a micrometer though....


Yes it did it was a adventure to say the least 
It was 3 hours away and after it was loaded in the trailer and I was getting ready to head home I backed out of where I was parked across the street in a parking lot across from the guys house and I noticed the trailer was not staying straight so I got out and looked and it appears that my passenger side front wheel on the trailer was tilled way out so after further inspection my axle was cracked there at the spindle NOT GOOD so I took the wheel off and could really see so the guy was nice enough to help me out because his shop was right there and I cut the spindle off we turned down a piece of round stock to fit inside the axle I welded that up and then welded the spindle on to that and it was enough for me to make it home 
I don’t know how long it was cracked because I put my bobcat on the trailer all the time and never noticed any problems but now I’m getting a new axle to put under it and I’m going to re deck the trailer this summer too


----------



## DAM 79

Papa Charlie said:


> @DAM 79
> The more you tell me about her, the more I want one. I currently have a Grizzly. It works but it is not a Monarch by any means. I envy you living on the Eastern part of our country, Any of these lathes are priced ridiculously here on the West side. I need several pieces of equipment that will round out my shop upon retirement. I cannot believe how much equipment has gone up in price. It looks like I will need to take trips to the East coast to get the equipment I want at a reasonable price. Trouble is the boss (wife) wants a 5th wheel. That eliminates any hauling in the truck bed and most states don't allow two trailers.
> 
> Bottom line, I am jealous of your purchase and hope I will be able to find something similarly, priced when I retire in June of 2022.
> 
> Still, I am very glad that you were able to score what you did. Congrats.


Thanks so from what I have seen so far in my journey to trying to build a small shop is that there is always deals that come around from time to time you just have to be patient and be ready for when they do because your not the only one looking I have missed a few unicorns the past year and I mean super rear like they were frozen in time lathes one was a Monarch series 60 13x54 that still have all the flaking on the compound and cross slide that was loaded with tooling and a DRO  I missed it by 2 hours and it was 30 mins from my house and it was about what I paid for this lathe moral of the story just always keep a eye out because you never know I have found all my stuff on CL


----------



## GreatOldOne

Used starrett 161-E clamps:




Some goodies from down under - Acute sharpening kit and diamond / tangental tool holders




Yes, my lathe is filthy. Yes, I'm going to go clean it up.


----------



## 682bear

USPS brought a box this afternoon...




13 cutters, ranging in size from 7/32" to 1" wide and 2-1/2" to 4" diameter.

-Bear


----------



## darkzero

Decided to ditch the straight arbor on my Albrecht & go with a R8 arbor like most of my other drill chucks have. I know straight shanks are more convenient, especially when they're shortened but I still prefer R8 arbors for my heavier chucks.

Llambrich (Spain) arbor dropped to $41 on Amazon, according to the 3 camels that's the lowest it's ever dropped to, last one in stock from Amazon. My local Travers had it for $90 but yet on Amazon Travers has it listed for $58 + 8 shipping. Had some rewards points too so for $35 I'm happy with that!







The old arbor. Removal wedges won't work on this arbor. I hate using them damned wedges anyway & I'll take the time to use this method to remove arbors whenever I can.


----------



## Larry$

Badabinski said:


> I bought a Harbor Freight 44" tool chest online a couple of weeks ago. It arrived a couple of days ago, but today was the first time the weather was nice enough for me to move it out to my shop.
> 
> I'm pretty pleased with it! Harbor Freight doesn't lube the drawer slides enough, but 20 minutes with a grease gun full of SuperLube fixed that. I'm excited to finally work on decluttering my shop!
> 
> View attachment 363014


I got a red one a few months ago when they were on sale. They seem well made. I moved the narrow bottom drawer up to near the top and two thin drawers down. The bottom thin drawer can't lock now but that's OK.  If I had the space I'd get another.


----------



## Aukai

J33 arbor, I forget what that fits? The 3JT is out of stock.


----------



## darkzero

Aukai said:


> J33 arbor, I forget what that fits? The 3JT is out of stock.



J33 is the same as 33JT or JT33, lots of small benchtop drill presses have that spindle taper size. Not the same as 3JT though.

I've had good luck with HHIP Pro Series arbors. I have them on my other drill chucks. Made in China but very low/practically no runout, nickel plated, & very inexpensive on Amazon. Although these days the price has gone up a bit. I actually first bought a HHIP R8 6JT for the Albrecht but I didn't like it (manufacturing quality/cosmetic). Functionally it was fine though. Not sure if it was just that one I got or if they are all like that now, they only had one left so I couldn't exchange it to find out. All my other HHIP Pro arbors are nice but I got them years ago.


----------



## darkzero

Laquer-Stiks by Markal. These are used for filling in stamped/etched letters or whatever. Lasts longer than using a crayon, I used to use paint markers which sometimes don't work well or at all & can be messy.

The red & white I bought a while back, I just bought the black. They don't come in these tubes though, I made em up to store em, I keep these cut-to-length tubes on hand for things like this.





Here's an example. This is the ratcheting wrench I use for my drawbar. Annoyingly it doesn't have directional marks on it, got tired of having to flip the wrench all the time. So I filled in one side with a paint marker to help me identify which side up to tighten or loosen. The paint marker worked but fades over time & never stood out nicely to begin with. Much more noticeable with these paint sticks.

Paint marker applied years ago





Laquer-Stik


----------



## Aukai

I'll have to give those a try for my purposes....


----------



## darkzero

Haha, nice! I don't think they'll do well for stuff like valve covers or letters that big. Better for filling in smaller stuff & I'm not sure how they would hold up to heat.


----------



## Z2V

Aukai said:


> I'll have to give those a try for my purposes....
> View attachment 364182


Please post a short video, not asking you to break the law but would love to hear that monster roar!!!


----------



## erikmannie

I just bought two 10 lb cans of 3/32” Lincoln Excalibur 7018. 

I had run out of 3/32”. Each can was only $32.50 with free shipping.


----------



## DavidR8

Got a set of ER20 metric collets to go in my TTS ER20 collet chuck.
I'm really liking the TTS system!


----------



## Aukai

The 454 is gone, and a 572 is going to replace it. I had the mustang beat off the line, so it was more of a cruise.





View attachment mikesremix1.mp4


----------



## Papa Charlie

Aukai said:


> The 454 is gone, and a 572 is going to replace it. I had the mustang beat off the line, so it was more of a cruise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 364187


Love Chevelles. That is one healthy engine you have there.


----------



## Janderso

Late 60's Chevys had great style. My buddy had a 1969 El Camino with the SS396.
I loved that car.


----------



## Aukai

Thank you, the 572 is not a GM crate, it's making 950hp


----------



## BGHansen

Aukai said:


> Thank you, the 572 is not a GM crate, it's making 950hp


Nice!  Running the 1/4 in under 11?


----------



## Aukai

It's in paint prison now, the 454 was 11.50s, I have the power for 9s now if it gets to the ground.


----------



## Z2V

950 hp NA 
Thats Bad Ass

Thanks for those clips


----------



## DavidR8

@davidpbest book arrived today. 
Wowee zowee what a compendium of information! 
Well done sir!


----------



## Papa Charlie

DavidR8 said:


> @davidpbest book arrived today.
> Wowee zowee what a compendium of information!
> Well done sir!


That could be a useful book. Where did you purchase it?


----------



## DavidR8

Papa Charlie said:


> That could be a useful book. Where did you purchase it?







__





						Introduction to Indexable Tooling for the Metal Lathe: A User Guide: Best, David P.: 9798713564643: Books - Amazon
					

Introduction to Indexable Tooling for the Metal Lathe: A User Guide [Best, David P.] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. Introduction to Indexable Tooling for the Metal Lathe: A User Guide



					www.amazon.com


----------



## tq60

Pawn shop score...26 pounds for $180.00

We have a favorite place where try get good stuff and prices are fair to high but they allow us to bend their arm...

Stopped yesterday to get something for wife and checked out the tool isles.

Nothing jumped out but what looked like a silver and Deming bit set in fancy wood box was on the back shelf .

Interesting but many bits less than 1/2 inch, look to see anyway.

Was brad point, real sharp but already have a set we rarely use so I thanked the guy as i told him they were fine but not good for steel.

He got a big smile and asked me to wait.

3 trips to the back room he presents bags of tools, most if not all are us made, Niagara end mills, precision twist drill etc.

Some new in box.

The single in box units had $5.00 price tags, he offered for 3 each.

I explain we are really looking for wife stuff and will maybe get a small bag of them.

He offers the pile for 150, I offer 50 and we settle for 90.

While I look at wife stuff he finds another batch, bigger than first one, tosses out 90 for it too.

So 26 pounds for 180 not bad.

A bag each of taps, readers, end mills and large drill bits.

I now have a 31/32 drill bit, been needing that one for years, finally have it but forgot what I needed it for.

He also presents a digital mitutoyo, 1 inch, batteries good.

Offers it for 90, got it for 45.

The telescoping set, 25.

That big mill bit in The center is sharp enough to shave with.

Now we just need to put it away.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	













Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

Holy moly @tq60 that was a complete steal of a deal!


----------



## Aukai

That kinda sucks, if you know what I mean 
And did the wife get her stuff?


----------



## hman

Fantastic score!!!!!


----------



## DavidR8

Bunch of stuff arrived today. 
Shielded four conductor wire for the CNC plasma cutter, SAE transfer punches, metric tap and drill set, 1/4” spiral flute reamer, 1/2”x2.125 cobalt boring bar, 82 deg countersink, 1/4” spotting drill.


----------



## Aukai

Do you have the 1/2" to 1" punches too?


----------



## DavidR8

Aukai said:


> Do you have the 1/2" to 1" punches too?


I don't actually. I don't seem to do work that has holes over 1/2" though I can see the value of also having larger sizes.


----------



## Aukai

Not used that often, but I have em if I need em


----------



## WobblyHand

Just one item.  
QuantuMike.  Kind of heavy.  With this resolution, one can expect some zero drift especially on initial turn on.  After it has been on a while it is good.  The mic stand helps a lot.  Need one less hand that way.  Glad I bought that earlier.


Trying to comprehend thread wires, that don't match the diameter that's in the blurb, in the background.


----------



## NCjeeper

Little E-Bay score. $21 bucks. Made in England test indicator.


----------



## Christianstark

Newbie to the hobby. Machines should come in July/August, so im still picking up the necessary gear. Today I got a vise!


----------



## darkzero

Christianstark said:


> Newbie to the hobby. Machines should come in July/August, so im still picking up the necessary gear. Today I got a vise!
> 
> View attachment 364353



Very nice! So, what kind of foods have you made with it so far?


----------



## Aukai

Very nice, hope it's a big mill.


----------



## darkzero

Aukai said:


> hope it's a big mill.



It sure is purdy but my back hurts just looking at it!


----------



## Christianstark

Not a very large mill, but I was advised on this size here.

PM 833-TV


----------



## Christianstark

darkzero said:


> Very nice! So, what kind of foods have you made with it so far?


 
Smashed Potato,


----------



## Papa Charlie

Christianstark said:


> Smashed Potato,


Also good for tenderizing the steaks before they get a good seasoning rub and go on the grill.


----------



## BGHansen

Christianstark said:


> Smashed Potato,


Nutcracker,  garlic press, and the last molecule from a toothpaste tube


----------



## Christianstark

darkzero said:


> It sure is purdy but my back hurts just looking at it!


I carried it down to the basement last night, and cleaned it up. I was not ready for the weight of this thing...


----------



## NCjeeper

Christianstark said:


> I was not ready for the weight of this thing...


80 pounds of sexy right there.


----------



## Aukai

I have one for my 9 x 32 it takes up a bunch of table space, I have since gotten 2 Glacern 4" vises. I am happier with the smaller ones, but it's nice to have the big one if needed. I'm leaving for work, I'll see if I can find a picture.


----------



## Aukai

This is the 6", and 4" .


----------



## Christianstark

Yep. Its big...LOL!

I hope my machine does not tip over...


----------



## NC Rick

I don't like nor approve of this thread.  I look here and feel non-virtuous thoughts including lust, desire and envy. 
humbug!  ;-)


----------



## Brento

Today was a city wide yard sale and this is what i got.
	

		
			
		

		
	





I got the toolbox for 10$. Almost like a kiddie toolbox. Then for 5$ i got the humidor. I am thinking of using it for some gage blocks or anything i want to keep dry. I also bought a 12ft 3/8 chain for a 1$!

Edit: also snagged a fractional drill index full for 6$ and 2 eagle cans for 8$ one pump style and one with the finger pop style. Also got a bunch of the plastic rays for free. Maybe 15 of them?

Edit Edit?: last buy again was another oil can for 8$, a level for 3$ a pittsburgh ratcheting tap wrench for 1$ and a hacksaw for 1$.


----------



## NCjeeper

3 Knipex pliers set. $119 shipped from Jersey Discount Tools. That is 40 bucks for each one. Great deal.


----------



## Janderso

I received a flaring tool set from Erik.
I'm a happy guy.


----------



## Watchwatch

NCjeeper said:


> 3 Knipex pliers set. $119 shipped from Jersey Discount Tools. That is 40 bucks for each one. Great deal.
> View attachment 364829
> 
> View attachment 364830



Careful, those have a way of reproducing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NCjeeper

That would be awesome.


----------



## Nogoingback

Watchwatch said:


> Careful, those have a way of reproducing.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If I remember right, mikey is the guy to talk with about that subject...


----------



## Aukai

Or Will


----------



## mmcmdl

I will have something yellow in the drive way in an hour or so . Haven't had one in roughly 8-10 years , so I'm looking forward to it . No pics .....................no proof . Yet !


----------



## Janderso

mmcmdl said:


> I will have something yellow in the drive way in an hour or so . Haven't had one in roughly 8-10 years , so I'm looking forward to it . No pics .....................no proof . Yet !


The Cub? What a tease.


----------



## Superburban

No, not a cub.


----------



## Aaron_W

mmcmdl said:


> I will have something yellow in the drive way in an hour or so . Haven't had one in roughly 8-10 years , so I'm looking forward to it . No pics .....................no proof . Yet !



You got a Banana slug?


----------



## Janderso




----------



## DavidR8




----------



## mmcmdl

One of my other addictions . As long as I don't end up with 100 or so I'm happy . I have 1000s of dollars worth of IH , Cub and JD paint down the basement . Guess I need an older JD next .  Great shape for a 31-35 years old tractor !


----------



## Janderso

mmcmdl said:


> One of my other addictions . As long as I don't end up with 100 or so I'm happy . I have 1000s of dollars worth of IH , Cub and JD paint down the basement . Guess I need an older JD next .  Great shape for a 31-35 years old tractor !


Dave,
What is the attraction? I mean, it's an old school lawn tractor right?
Hey, everyone has their passions??



This is my, gone to heaven car


----------



## Aaron_W

Janderso said:


> Dave,
> What is the attraction? I mean, it's an old school lawn tractor right?
> Hey, everyone has their passions??
> View attachment 364952
> 
> 
> This is my, gone to heaven car



Nash?

There was a car like this but tan and white parked on the street near my house a few months back. Tiny little thing, cute, not much bigger than a Geo Metro.


----------



## Janderso

Aaron_W said:


> Tiny little thing, cute


Cute? you think this is cute?
Someone must have. They designed and built them like this.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought another Miller Small Runner Cart. I have a lot of these, but about 3 months ago I hijacked one of them (which was my “stick welding cart”) to use as a “lathe chuck cart”.  

This purchase gets a cart back for my Miller Thunderbolt 210 DC stick welding machine, rod oven, slag chippin’ hammer, 2 SS wire brushes, stick welding gloves & a whole lot of 5P+ 6010 & Excalibur 7018. Even though it is a SMAW cart, it is also tasked with holding my spare oxygen cylinder.





__





						Miller Small Runner Cart 301615
					






					store.cyberweld.com


----------



## FOMOGO

Remember this one. My Grandfather had a few Nash/Ramblers over the years. First engine I ever rebuilt was a Rambler straight six. Mike


----------



## darkzero

Aukai said:


> Or Will


----------



## Aaron_W

Janderso said:


> Cute? you think this is cute?
> Someone must have. They designed and built them like this.



Oh yeah, the one I saw looked like a grown up pedal car.


----------



## mmcmdl

Janderso said:


> Dave,
> What is the attraction? I mean, it's an old school lawn tractor right?


I'm CCSuperMan over on the Cadet site and have restored 100s of tractors over the years . Most were the larger 1872s and 2072s . My tractors are all over the east coast !   The guy I bought this one from messaged me this morning and told me his boss got his 1862 from me years back . Finrusk on our site has quite a few IHs also , he can explain the attraction also . It has to do with the tractors being " Old Iron ", which I'm a big fan of !


----------



## devils4ever

Starrett Adjustable Parallel set.


----------



## WobblyHand

devils4ever said:


> Starrett Adjustable Parallel set.
> 
> View attachment 365060


Those are nice.  Forgive the unknowledgeable question, but what are these typically used for?  Does it go in your vise along with an ordinary parallel to adjust for a workpiece feature?  Can you tap it with a dead blow hammer to seat the part feature against it?  Or will it move as a result of "the tap"?  I'm such a beginner, I've never seen them used.


----------



## jwmelvin

I believe they are generally used to measure, by filling a gap and then allowing outside measurement with a micrometer.


----------



## devils4ever

No, they are primarily used for precise measurement. You open it in a slot, tighten it, and use your outside mic or calipers to measure.


----------



## WobblyHand

Thanks guys.  Makes a lot more sense!


----------



## devils4ever

Right from Starrett:

The Starrett Adjustable Parallel provides a wide range of use in layout, gaging, inspection work and for setups on various machine tools. Its adjustable feature makes it possible to adjust it to exact size by micrometer measurement and also permits use in place of several solid-type parallels. The parallel is useful as a gage in checking the size of slots and openings. It is also convenient for use in machine vises, for leveling or adjusting work on setups of milling and grinding machines, shapers, planers, drill presses and for many other applications. The parallel slides smoothly and can be easily adjusted.


----------



## Janderso

devils4ever said:


> Right from Starrett:
> 
> The Starrett Adjustable Parallel provides a wide range of use in layout, gaging, inspection work and for setups on various machine tools. Its adjustable feature makes it possible to adjust it to exact size by micrometer measurement and also permits use in place of several solid-type parallels. The parallel is useful as a gage in checking the size of slots and openings. It is also convenient for use in machine vises, for leveling or adjusting work on setups of milling and grinding machines, shapers, planers, drill presses and for many other applications. The parallel slides smoothly and can be easily adjusted.


There a thousand uses for these things and I don't even know what I'm doing.
You know when you have a part in the vise on one side and you want to balance out the load on the jaws?
Well, you just put these babies in there ----I'm kidding.
Mostly measuring where you can't get a micrometer in to the space to be measured or helping to indicate a part in.


----------



## devils4ever

I'm currently building a tool rest for my belt grinder. I plan on putting a slot in it for various jigs/fixtures. With the adjustable parallels, I can accurately measure the width and make a matching bar to go in it.


----------



## Daphharr

Craiglist for $75. I am trying to fugure out if I can just leave these in the house to just admire them.  That did not last long...


----------



## Crankit

This will shorten up the amount of hacksawing


----------



## devils4ever

I have the HF version and love it. It saves so much time and sweat. I quickly bought the Swag table for it. 

I used it recently to cut 2-1/2" thick mild steel. I can't imagine doing this by hand.


----------



## Brento

Crankit said:


> This will shorten up the amount of hacksawing
> View attachment 365074


How much did that set you back?  I was looking at the M18 version but not sure about the battery.


----------



## brino

Brento said:


> I was looking at the M18 version but not sure about the battery.



As a recent convert to the Milwaukee M18 series of tools, I do not think you'll have a problem.
I now have two lights, a 1/2" drill, a 1/4" impact and a hack-zall.
That 1/4" impact loosened all the wheel nuts for the summer tire changes on two vehicles.
Great tools!

My Milwaukee deep-cut band saw is corded......but I am sooooo tempted!

-brino


----------



## Ianagos

Got me a nice small bandsaw. Got it for about scrap price and it sorta works. 

Saw is in great condition just has some electrical grimlins.


----------



## Ianagos

Almost forgot while I was out buying saws I also got a roll in saw.


----------



## Watchwatch

Brento said:


> How much did that set you back? I was looking at the M18 version but not sure about the battery.



The big batteries are amazing. I have the cordless l bandsaw and highly recommend it. I think the m18 leaf blower will blow on high for at least 20 minutes on one charge with the bigger batteries.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dhal22

Christianstark said:


> Newbie to the hobby. Machines should come in July/August, so im still picking up the necessary gear. Today I got a vise!
> 
> View attachment 364353




Can I come over and touch it?


----------



## darkzero

A couple of more tools from Japan. Merry nail in tire removal pliers & screw removal pliers. I've already got a few of the Engineer screw removal pliers but I love the look of the rounded off head on this one.








Lang caliper tool. I've used other styles before (Lisle) but I'm liking this style much more. Never knew they existed. I got their largest size & looks like it'll be perfect for my truck's 4 pot calipers. Now I can stop using my Knipex pliers & a pry bar to do it.






18 x 36 cutting mat. These normal cost $50. Been watching it on Amazon for the past year, over the weekend it dropped down to $22 for a very short time & I hopped on it. When I opened the door the box size caught me off guard for a moment. In the past there were complaints about cutting mats being rolled up & shipped to save on shipping. Often they don't settle back flat. So now they ship em flat in big boxes & I'm glad.






Finally found me a stiff nail brush that I like. I was searching auto parts stores & hardware stores, got these from MSC, their house brand. I got short nails so I don't actually use em to clean under my nails. I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty so I need a good stiff short bristles brush to scrub around my nails & skin cause hand cleaner/soap won't always get everything off. The red one is from Pep Boys, was only $1 so worth a try & it's ok.


----------



## Dhal22

brino said:


> As a recent convert to the Milwaukee M18 series of tools, I do not think you'll have a problem.
> I now have two lights, a 1/2" drill, a 1/4" impact and a hack-zall.
> That 1/4" impact loosened all the wheel nuts for the summer tire changes on two vehicles.
> Great tools!
> 
> My Milwaukee deep-cut band saw is corded......but I am sooooo tempted!
> 
> -brino



Deep cut Milwaukee porta band was a construction job site standard for decades.  Nobody else had anything that compared.


----------



## Brento

Thanks @Watchwatch @brino someday i will prob pick the battery version up for my small shop until i get more work and need of something bigger.


----------



## Toolmaker51

mikey said:


> Bought a pair (0-1" and 1-2")of Tesa screw thread mics.......I absolutely hate thread wires; I always drop them in the chip pan or on the floor ... always!


Me too. But I'd hate more buying thread mics in all sizes......
Drape a shop rag over the ways under area to be checked. 
Keep a ball of modeling clay in a capped glass jar, use a strip with the wires stuck in it. 
Styrofoam packaging trays, like for meats, works also in the same way.
'Glue' the wires in place with grease.

There is a dexterity in manipulating thread wires, it takes some practice.


----------



## mickri

I used rubber bands to start with when using wires with 2 wires on the bottom and one on the top. 




Then one time I happened to put the 2 wires on the top and they just sat there nicely balanced.  Put the mic on them to hold the wires in place while I held the one wire to the bottom and tightened the mic.  What was once a chore where I would have liked to have 3 or 4 hands turned into a no big deal.  Sorry I don't have a picture.


----------



## mikey

Toolmaker51 said:


> There is a dexterity in manipulating thread wires, it takes some practice.


Yeah, I know, but I still hate them. Thread mics are so much better and faster and I won't go back, ever.


----------



## darkzero

Man you guys had me wondering, I went back a few pages not remembering talk about thread mics & wires recently. Then I followed the quoted post, it's from 2017! No wonder!


----------



## mickri

I know you guys like pictures so I went out to the garage and took some for you.  The first picture is with the two wires resting on the top of the thread.  Next up is with the mic resting on the top of the two wires.  Final pic has the mic holding all of the wires.  Two on the top and one on the bottom.


----------



## mmcmdl

Another easy trick is stick the two top wires into a small piece of styrofoam .


----------



## Weldingrod1

Gotta give the hackzall a shout put; super handy! Kind of short stroke, but tiny, light, easy to get into places.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## ttabbal

The talk of thread measuring reminded me to post these...






						P D Check Thread Wire Attachment System: Thread Gages: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
					

P D Check Thread Wire Attachment System: Thread Gages: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



					www.amazon.com
				




They are a bit pricey for what they are, but they do work pretty well. They hold the thread wires to the mic so you just line up the wires where you want them, and measure. Great for sizes that I don't use enough to justify a thread mic for. I love the 0-1 thread mic, but I just don't make >1" threads that much.


----------



## Christianstark

Dhal22 said:


> Can I come over and touch it?


If I had a Nickel...


----------



## Janderso

I bought the 865M. 6.5" jaws. This is the Mechanics series. These are around $435 and up.
Amazon had one shipped from Wilton for $389 Prime.
We have a few of these at work. They are sweet.
Did I really need it? No. But I couldn't pass up the deal.
With the thrust washers, the sealed acme screw and the rigidity, quality jaws etc......
Gives me another project-soft jaws 

These are Mechanic's Pro,  made in China to Wilton specifications. The fit and finish is very good. I know the Tradesman runs several hundred more and is made in the USA.
For a hobby guy, this is gonna have to do.


----------



## BladesIIB

Christianstark said:


> If I had a Nickel...


So what you are saying is if we pay a nickel.....then we can?


----------



## Crankit

Brento said:


> How much did that set you back?  I was looking at the M18 version but not sure about the battery.


I'm up in Canada but a regional tool supply company had it on sale for $349CAD so I used the price guarantee at Home depot to get it there vs their regular price of $429

Cheers...Wayne


----------



## NCjeeper

I have some up coming projects where I need 3/4" square holes. So I bit the bullet.


----------



## devils4ever

I'm guessing that's going take a LARGE arbor press!


----------



## DavidR8

Definitely take video when you press that @NCjeeper!


----------



## NCjeeper

DavidR8 said:


> Definitely take video when you press that @NCjeeper!


Will do.


----------



## DAM 79

devils4ever said:


> I have the HF version and love it. It saves so much time and sweat. I quickly bought the Swag table for it.
> 
> I used it recently to cut 2-1/2" thick mild steel. I can't imagine doing this by hand.


That is one of them tools that are so handy you will wonder how you did with out it ,I have the M18 cordless deep cut and the small little M12 band saw both are super handy I use them all the time !!!


----------



## DAM 79

Well as my girlfriend would say I have a problem because I took a trip this morning while she was out of town and I came home with this lol
A sterling drill bit grinder that’s in really good shape and the price was right !!!! I also made a deal on a DoAll surface grinder that the guy had there also !!! But that will be next month when I have time to go back and get it


----------



## DAM 79

So after getting the drill grinder unloaded I checked the mail and I have one more goodie .
I got it off eBay super cheap and it’s all there and has smooth travels,I think I was the only one that bid on it


----------



## NCjeeper

DAM 79 said:


> Well as my girlfriend would say I have a problem because I took a trip this morning while she was out of town and I came home with this lol
> A sterling drill bit grinder that’s in really good shape and the price was right !!!! I also made a deal on a DoAll surface grinder that the guy had there also !!! But that will be next month when I have time to go back and get it


Nice score. I bought one last year. Company is still making these so parts and grinding wheels are available which is nice.


----------



## DAM 79

NCjeeper said:


> Nice score. I bought one last year. Company is still making these so parts and grinding wheels are available which is nice.


Thanks !!! I got it from the same guy I got my Monarch series 60 from and I made a deal for a DoAll surface grinder to


----------



## Cadillac

darkzero said:


> View attachment 365019
> 
> 
> View attachment 365020
> 
> View attachment 365021


Geeez them things like gremlins pour water on them and they multiple.


----------



## Nogoingback

A Small Ebay Purchase, And A Story...

So, I placed an order Wednesday for a 3" Moore and Wright machinists square from eBay.  Price was good and the  seller has high
ratings and lots of history.  Next day I get a message that the part has shipped.  Looking at the tracking info, I notice the tracking
number is tied to a shipper called ZNLOGIC, who I've never heard of.  A Google search led me to some info from the eBay community
page from 2018 indicating that both ZNLOGIC is a scam, and is actually legitimate.  It also indicated  that the part shipped from an
Amazon facility in Hillsboro, Oregon which is about 30 miles from where I live.  Hmmm.  Not sure what to make of this, so I contacted
Amazon customer service via Chat to see if ZNLOGIC is a company they do business with.  After a lengthy question and answer session,
the answer was that they didn't know, and couldn't find out.  Amazon does business with the usual major shippers, has their own shipping
organization, and utilizes a network of independent shippers which, I assume vary with the location of the Amazon warehouse.  And, because
I ordered from eBay, they couldn't look up the order.  All this occurred Saturday morning.

So, after a considerable amount of time and effort, I simply could not determine if I had been scammed or not.  ZNLOGIC is almost
certainly Chinese.  I also learned that some eBay sellers will purchase goods off Amazon and have them drop shipped directly to
the customer, though I was uncertain how that would work.  So, I decided to wait and see if the part showed up or not, since I figured
between eBay and Paypal I could probably get my money back.  It showed up Saturday in Amazon packaging with Gift Receipt enclosed.
That explains how the eBay seller drop shipped to me.  So, in the end I'm a happy camper, but I found the whole deal a bit disturbing.
It occurred to me that ZNLOGIC could have been a scam originally, but that they changed their
business model to a legitimate business.  It's getting weird out there folks...


----------



## francist

Looks like a nice little square. I like M&W tools, I have several.


----------



## erikmannie

I had used up ALL of my brazing flux + C-04 brazing rod on a huge project, so I replenished my principle brazing consumables:

(1) two lbs. of 1/16” C-04 nickel bronze rod,
(2) two lbs. of 3/32” of the same, and
(3) two lbs. of Gasflux Type “B” bronze paste flux.

$111.65 delivered (ouch!)









						Gasflux Type
					

Gasflux Type "B" Bronze Paste Flux 1lb steel brass bronze brazing




					framebuildersupply.com
				












						Gasflux C-04 Nickel Bronze Rod - 1/16
					

Gasflux C-04 nickel bronze rod - 1/16" - 1lb fillet braze steel




					framebuildersupply.com
				




Everybody should know that these products (both made by Gasflux) are designed to work together. That is, this flux becomes clear right at the melting point of the C-04 rod.

You can save money & use any bronze brazing flux & low fuming bronze (LFB) rod, but you may or may not get a perfect “flux becomes clear at bronze melting point temperature” match.

The other alternative is the flux coated LFB rods (I like the ones made by Blue Demon). I use those for small jobs. They work really well.


----------



## erikmannie

When I posted the above, I remembered that I had also completely depleted my supply of LFBFC (low fuming bronze, flux coated).

It was only $46.93 delivered for 1 lb. each of 1/16”, 3/32” and 1/8” Blue Demon Flux Coated Brazing Rods as below:









						Blue Demon Flux Coated Brazing Bronze 1# Tube | Toll Gas & Welding Supply
					

Blue Demon flux coated brazing bronze is a general-purpose, copper base alloy brazing rod used extensively for gas brazing steel, copper alloys, cast iron,




					store.tollgas.com
				




These are really easy to use & they have never failed me.


----------



## BladesIIB

erikmannie said:


> I had used up ALL of my brazing flux + C-04 brazing rod on a huge project, so I replenished my principle brazing consumables:
> 
> (1) two lbs. of 1/16” C-04 nickel bronze rod,
> (2) two lbs. of 3/32” of the same, and
> (3) two lbs. of Gasflux Type “B” bronze paste flux.
> 
> $111.65 delivered (ouch!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gasflux Type
> 
> 
> Gasflux Type "B" Bronze Paste Flux 1lb steel brass bronze brazing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> framebuildersupply.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gasflux C-04 Nickel Bronze Rod - 1/16
> 
> 
> Gasflux C-04 nickel bronze rod - 1/16" - 1lb fillet braze steel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> framebuildersupply.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everybody should know that these products (both made by Gasflux) are designed to work together. That is, this flux becomes clear right at the melting point of the C-04 rod.
> 
> You can save money & use any bronze brazing flux & low fuming bronze (LFB) rod, but you may or may not get a perfect “flux becomes clear at bronze melting point temperature” match.
> 
> The other alternative is the flux coated LFB rods (I like the ones made by Blue Demon). I use those for small jobs. They work really well.


I have only done a little brazing and always with the flux coated.  When using the paste do you put the paste down first like when soldering?  Or what is the proper method to apply?


----------



## erikmannie

BladesIIB said:


> I have only done a little brazing and always with the flux coated.  When using the paste do you put the paste down first like when soldering?  Or what is the proper method to apply?



Using an acid brush, one “paints on” this flux paste anywhere which may be in or quite near to the HAZ. It is okay to use a little too much flux paste (because the flux is inexpensive & the excess will just drip off onto the floor, fire brick, welding table, etc.).

If you cheap out & try to save 10 cents on flux, you risk oxidation.

Once the work area is covered in flux, I use an O/A brazing tip (same as my gas welding tip) to gently bring the work area to brazing temp. You’re watching the color of the flux. 

The flux goes from it’s initial blue color to a milky color, and, once the flux is clear, you can apply the C-04 bonze rod (bare LFB also works well), and it will melt & wet in.

With NO quenching, allow to cool, & this flux will be like glass, same as with the flux coated rods.

If possible, I soak the brazed joint in hot soapy water for several hours. I scrub off the glassy, dried flux with warm soapy water & thoroughly rinse with water.

This water based paste flux will dry out in the jar after a few months. I just add a little tap water whereupon I can regulate the viscosity to my liking.


----------



## FOMOGO

Picked up 80' of 4x6x.25 I-beam, and 60' of 8"x2.5x.25 channel for $230. went on line this morning to check steel prices. They want $54 for 1' of
 2 1/2"x.25 mild steel square tubing. He has a ton of similar and much larger structural steel, all never used left over from a power plant job. going to make him an offer for all of it. We will see.  Also bought a walking beam axle trailer from the same guy. Very heavy duty, factory made, with adjustable length tongue. Will be cutting off the rancher made, deck and re-configuring for my own use. Picked that up for $250.  Happy shopping, Mike


----------



## BladesIIB

erikmannie said:


> Using an acid brush, one “paints on” this flux paste anywhere which may be in or quite near to the HAZ. It is okay to use a little too much flux paste (because the flux is inexpensive & the excess will just drip off onto the floor, fire brick, welding table, etc.).
> 
> If you cheap out & try to save 10 cents on flux, you risk oxidation.
> 
> Once the work area is covered in flux, I use an O/A brazing tip (same as my gas welding tip) to gently bring the work area to brazing temp. You’re watching the color of the flux.
> 
> The flux goes from it’s initial blue color to a milky color, and once the flux is clear, you can apply the C-04 bonze rod (bare LFB also works well), and it will melt & wet in.
> 
> With NO quenching, allow to cool, & this flux will be like glass, same as with the flux coated rods.
> 
> If possible, I soak the brazed joint in hot soapy water for several hours. I scrub off the glassy, dried flux with warm soapy water & thoroughly rinse with water.
> 
> This water based paste flux will dry out in the jar after a few months. I just add a little tap water whereupon I can regulate the viscosity to my liking.


Thanks, good explanation and info for me to file away.  I am sure I will need it at some point.


----------



## extropic

@FOMOGO 
Major bargain there.


----------



## Dhal22

erikmannie said:


> Using an acid brush, one “paints on” this flux paste anywhere which may be in or quite near to the HAZ. It is okay to use a little too much flux paste (because the flux is inexpensive & the excess will just drip off onto the floor, fire brick, welding table, etc.).
> 
> If you cheap out & try to save 10 cents on flux, you risk oxidation.
> 
> Once the work area is covered in flux, I use an O/A brazing tip (same as my gas welding tip) to gently bring the work area to brazing temp. You’re watching the color of the flux.
> 
> The flux goes from it’s initial blue color to a milky color, and once the flux is clear, you can apply the C-04 bonze rod (bare LFB also works well), and it will melt & wet in.
> 
> With NO quenching, allow to cool, & this flux will be like glass, same as with the flux coated rods.
> 
> If possible, I soak the brazed joint in hot soapy water for several hours. I scrub off the glassy, dried flux with warm soapy water & thoroughly rinse with water.
> 
> This water based paste flux will dry out in the jar after a few months. I just add a little tap water whereupon I can regulate the viscosity to my liking.




There should be a sticky thread of this info.   Great stuff.


----------



## darkzero

Not what most people would consider a tool but it's still a tool to me & brings back memories.


----------



## erikmannie

darkzero said:


> Not what most people would consider a tool but it's still a tool to me & brings back memories.
> 
> View attachment 365460



Where I grew up, there was a Thrifty Drug close to our house, & I was sometimes able to get my Mom to buy me a double or triple scoop. I remember that the prices were very low, and the ice cream wasn’t the best. 

I will always remember that the scoops were shaped like cylinders rather than spheres.


----------



## brino

darkzero said:


> Not what most people would consider a tool but it's still a tool to me & brings back memories.



What? An actual stainless steel ice cream scoop?!?!?

I'll take three...no four!

I am so sick of the aluminum and pot-metal crappy spoon shaped ones that:
i) break on their third use since the reduced shank is too small for actual frozen ice cream........and they hide it under a plastic handle
ii) are not dish-washer safe due to some crap "feature" like gel handle or "fluid-filled, stay-warm handle"

I have been thinking I'd have to make a decent one.

No wonder I come off like a grumpy old man.... I feel like one when most things built today are CRAP!

-brino


----------



## darkzero

brino said:


> What? An actual stainless steel ice cream scoop?!?!?
> 
> I'll take three...no four!
> 
> I am so sick of the aluminum and pot-metal crappy spoon shaped ones that:
> i) break on their third use since the reduced shank is too small for actual frozen ice cream........and they hide it under a plastic handle
> ii) are not dish-washer safe due to some crap "feature" like gel handle or "fluid-filled, stay-warm handle"
> 
> I have been thinking I'd have to make a decent one.
> 
> No wonder I come off like a grumpy old man.... I feel like one when most things built today are CRAP!
> 
> -brino



Haha, I feel your pain!

It is stainless steel but in case anyone isn't familiar with it, the novelty of it is that it's a replica of Thrifty's ice cream scoopers from back in the day which you could never buy. The replica is sold at Rite Aid.

The scooper puts out a cylindrical shaped scoop. You pack the ice cream in then pull the trigger to plop it out. Thifty's is now Rite Aid & they still sell Thrifty's ice cream. Some people swear by Thrifty's ice cream. When I was there today picking up the scooper there were people in front of me all buying a tub of it. I never thought it was anything special but it was cheap when I was a kid & the shape of the scoops were unique which is what brings back the memories.


----------



## extropic

@brino 

Stainless steel ice cream scoop. I've had mine for over 10 years. Very good.






						Amazon.com: OXO Good Grips Solid Stainless Steel Ice Cream Scoop, 8-Inch, Black: Home & Kitchen
					

Online Shopping for Kitchen Utensils & Gadgets from a great selection at everyday low prices. Free 2-day Shipping with Amazon Prime.



					www.amazon.com
				




Also, spade type, if you prefer.






						Amazon.com: OXO Good Grips Stainless Steel Ice Cream Spade: Home & Kitchen
					

Amazon.com: OXO Good Grips Stainless Steel Ice Cream Spade: Home & Kitchen



					www.amazon.com


----------



## Papa Charlie

My wife when she was a kid, for a treat, her grandmother or mother would take the kids to Thrify's for ice cream. They were only $0.25 for a scoop. Years later after we were married (and years ago from today), the wife still like to go there to get a scoop. Was still cheap but more than she use to spend. She still misses those times. These days, we go by Baskin Robins and get one of those kiddie cups. Brings back some great memories.

Thanks very much for sharing this. Made my day.


----------



## Janderso

Nogoingback said:


> It's getting weird out there folks...


You can take that to the bank.


----------



## Janderso

erikmannie said:


> When I posted the above, I remembered that I had also completely depleted my supply of LFBFC (low fuming bronze, flux coated).
> 
> It was only $46.93 delivered for 1 lb. each of 1/16”, 3/32” and 1/8” Blue Demon Flux Coated Brazing Rods as below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blue Demon Flux Coated Brazing Bronze 1# Tube | Toll Gas & Welding Supply
> 
> 
> Blue Demon flux coated brazing bronze is a general-purpose, copper base alloy brazing rod used extensively for gas brazing steel, copper alloys, cast iron,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> store.tollgas.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are really easy to use & they have never failed me.


Have you ever tried to Tig braze using this coated rod? =Not a good reaction!!


----------



## ddickey

Nogoingback said:


> A Small Ebay Purchase, And A Story...
> 
> So, I placed an order Wednesday for a 3" Moore and Wright machinists square from eBay.  Price was good and the  seller has high
> ratings and lots of history.  Next day I get a message that the part has shipped.  Looking at the tracking info, I notice the tracking
> number is tied to a shipper called ZNLOGIC, who I've never heard of.  A Google search led me to some info from the eBay community
> page from 2018 indicating that both ZNLOGIC is a scam, and is actually legitimate.  It also indicated  that the part shipped from an
> Amazon facility in Hillsboro, Oregon which is about 30 miles from where I live.  Hmmm.  Not sure what to make of this, so I contacted
> Amazon customer service via Chat to see if ZNLOGIC is a company they do business with.  After a lengthy question and answer session,
> the answer was that they didn't know, and couldn't find out.  Amazon does business with the usual major shippers, has their own shipping
> organization, and utilizes a network of independent shippers which, I assume vary with the location of the Amazon warehouse.  And, because
> I ordered from eBay, they couldn't look up the order.  All this occurred Saturday morning.
> 
> So, after a considerable amount of time and effort, I simply could not determine if I had been scammed or not.  ZNLOGIC is almost
> certainly Chinese.  I also learned that some eBay sellers will purchase goods off Amazon and have them drop shipped directly to
> the customer, though I was uncertain how that would work.  So, I decided to wait and see if the part showed up or not, since I figured
> between eBay and Paypal I could probably get my money back.  It showed up Saturday in Amazon packaging with Gift Receipt enclosed.
> That explains how the eBay seller drop shipped to me.  So, in the end I'm a happy camper, but I found the whole deal a bit disturbing.
> It occurred to me that ZNLOGIC could have been a scam originally, but that they changed their
> business model to a legitimate business.  It's getting weird out there folks...
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 365403


$22 shipped on Amazon.


----------



## Nogoingback

Yeah, I noticed.  In the end I payed $23 and change so close enough.  And the guy got it to me in 
2 days, so I can't complain about that either.  In the end a good transaction, but with some uncertainty.


----------



## BladesIIB

I have seen several of these Haimer 3D Testers around the forum. Finally made the purchase. Found a low priced seller (All Industrial Tool Supply) and saved 10% for a first purchase.  Found the collet on eBay and got it all dialed in and set up this evening. Has the quality feel everyone raves about. Looking forward to using this vs my old edge finder.  Also good practice for when I start doing CNC in a couple months.


----------



## erikmannie

Janderso said:


> Have you ever tried to Tig braze using this coated rod? =Not a good reaction!!



I have never heard of this product. Does one use an oxy-fuel setup or a TIG machine?


----------



## Janderso

BladesIIB said:


> I have seen several of these Haimer 3D Testers around the forum. Finally made the purchase. Found a low priced seller (All Industrial Tool Supply) and saved 10% for a first purchase.  Found the collet on eBay and got it all dialed in and set up this evening. Has the quality feel everyone raves about. Looking forward to using this vs my old edge finder.  Also good practice for when I start doing CNC in a couple months.


Well that's sweet!









						Universal 3D-Sensor for milling and eroding machines
					

The Universal 3D-Sensor is a very precise and versatile measuring device for milling and EDM machines (isolated probe tip).




					www.haimer-usa.com


----------



## Janderso

erikmannie said:


> I have never heard of this product. Does one use an oxy-fuel setup or a TIG machine?


I'm referring to the traditional brazing rod with the white flux coating. Works great with oxy/acety but don't try it with a tig torch. =too hot, the flux explodes off the rod and makes a mess.
Had to try it at least once.

This stuff is to be used with a torch as well.








						Blue Demon Flux Coated Brazing Bronze 1# Tube | Toll Gas & Welding Supply
					

Blue Demon flux coated brazing bronze is a general-purpose, copper base alloy brazing rod used extensively for gas brazing steel, copper alloys, cast iron,




					store.tollgas.com


----------



## FOMOGO

Got this on E-bay. Made an offer of $200 and he accepted. Needs a good cleaning, and some file work where someone ran it into something on the side of the cutter. Should be an easy fix with a file, or chuck it up in the lathe. 8" diameter, 55lbs, Cat 50. Each insert is height adjustable. inserts are new, but two have small chips from handling I imagine. Just need to rotate slightly to get a good edge. Will be going on my Gorton mill in the Vertical head attachment. Should be just the ticket for surfacing heads and blocks. Mike


----------



## BGHansen

FOMOGO said:


> Got this on E-bay. Made an offer of $200 and he accepted. Needs a good cleaning, and some file work where someone ran it into something on the side of the cutter. Should be an easy fix with a file, or chuck it up in the lathe. 8" diameter, 55lbs, Cat 50. Each insert is height adjustable. inserts are new, but two have small chips from handling I imagine. Just need to rotate slightly to get a good edge. Will be going on my Gorton mill in the Vertical head attachment. Should be just the ticket for surfacing heads and blocks. Mike
> 
> View attachment 365611
> View attachment 365612
> View attachment 365613


Let me guess, rigging up something with the combine to level your driveway!  That thing is HUGE!

Bruce


----------



## FOMOGO

LOL, Time will tell. Cheers, Mike


----------



## WobblyHand

Received an early birthday present.  A few days ago, when my wife asked me if I wanted anything for my birthday, I remembered a flyer I got from Ideal Precision. I printed it out, and put an arrow on the part number and highlighted the line.  It was on sale.  This arrived today.


A new Model 312-B.  The stem appears to be 4 mm in diameter, I don't have a holder that small.  Have to get one.  For the moment, I'll use the dovetails.  Like the fact that the dovetails are replaceable.

Happy camper.


----------



## brino

WobblyHand said:


> Happy camper.



Happy Birthday, Happy Camper!


----------



## darkzero

WobblyHand said:


> The stem appears to be 4 mm in diameter, I don't have a holder that small.



Happy Birthday!

Interapid has a collet to allow you to hold it in a standard 3/8" holder. I forget the price but last time I checked them little buggers were expensive. I got mine on Amazon when they had em. _Brown & Sharpe TESA 74.108943_. You could also make your own sleeve.

EDIT: MSC has it for $17. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05103171


----------



## WobblyHand

Can I make a pseudo collet out of 0.375" rod, drilled out to 4 mm with a single slot cut out?  I do have a 1/16" slitting saw, which seems kind of wide relative to 4 mm, but it should work.  That is, as long as I can hold on to the rod.


----------



## Janderso

FOMOGO said:


> Got this on E-bay. Made an offer of $200 and he accepted. Needs a good cleaning, and some file work where someone ran it into something on the side of the cutter. Should be an easy fix with a file, or chuck it up in the lathe. 8" diameter, 55lbs, Cat 50. Each insert is height adjustable. inserts are new, but two have small chips from handling I imagine. Just need to rotate slightly to get a good edge. Will be going on my Gorton mill in the Vertical head attachment. Should be just the ticket for surfacing heads and blocks. Mike
> 
> View attachment 365611
> View attachment 365612
> View attachment 365613


That’s the big leagues!
I didn’t know about your George C. Gorton Mill.
You scored dude!


----------



## extropic

@FOMOGO 

I think the technical term for that cutter is "da 'mama-jama".


----------



## darkzero

WobblyHand said:


> Can I make a pseudo collet out of 0.375" rod, drilled out to 4 mm with a single slot cut out?  I do have a 1/16" slitting saw, which seems kind of wide relative to 4 mm, but it should work.  That is, as long as I can hold on to the rod.



Yep, that should work fine.

EDIT: On second thought, maybe not? Sleeve might have too much meat for the indicator holder clamp to clamp down on it easily with just a single slot. But should work if you make an opposing second relief slot (as in not a cut all the way through, the proper term isn't coming to mind right now).


----------



## WobblyHand

darkzero said:


> Happy Birthday!
> 
> Interapid has a collet to allow you to hold it in a standard 3/8" holder. I forget the price but last time I checked them little buggers were expensive. I got mine on Amazon when they had em. _Brown & Sharpe TESA 74.108943_. You could also make your own sleeve.
> 
> EDIT: MSC has it for $17. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05103171
> 
> 
> Thanks for the link to msc.  There's a local branch near me.  I'll call them and see if I can pick it up there.  Just to see if I can, I will try making one as well.


Not sure if this is a super deal, but the sale price from Ideal Precision for the 312-B was $244.  I hadn't seen anyone else offering a new one (from a reputable supplier) for that price.


----------



## darkzero

WobblyHand said:


> Thanks for the link to msc.  There's a local branch near me.  I'll call them and see if I can pick it up there.  Just to see if I can, I will try making one as well.



No problem. You definitely should be able to. I'm lucky to have a MSC outlet near me also, they transfer in items all the time for me free of charge, even for freight items.


----------



## WobblyHand

darkzero said:


> Yep, that should work fine.
> 
> EDIT: On second thought, maybe not? Sleeve might have too much meat for the indicator holder clamp to clamp down on it easily with just a single slot. But should work if you make an opposing second relief slot (as in not a cut all the way through, the proper term isn't coming to mind right now).


Should the cut be on the OD opposite to the original through cut?


----------



## darkzero

WobblyHand said:


> Should the cut be on the OD opposite to the original through cut?



It would work fine either way, I've seen it done both ways. I think the last one I made (much larger size) I did on the OD. But since this one is so small, it'll probably be easier to do it on the ID, that way you could cut both the slot & the slit in one pass (assuming your slitting saw is large enough in dia to reach).


----------



## jwmelvin

WobblyHand said:


> Should the cut be on the OD opposite to the original through cut?



I find the choice between those two options as a fairly interesting question, though probably not practically significant.


----------



## WobblyHand

darkzero said:


> It would work fine either way, I've seen it done both ways. I think the last one I made (much larger size) I did on the OD. But since this one is so small, it'll probably be easier to do it on the ID, that way you could cut both the slot & the slit in one pass (assuming your slitting saw is large enough in dia to reach).


Oh, the saw is big enough, it's 4 inches in diameter!


----------



## FOMOGO

Here it is in relation to the mill. It's 10hp now,' but I have a 15hp to upgrade, which was an original option. Mike



Janderso said:


> That’s the big leagues!
> I didn’t know about your George C. Gorton Mill.
> You scored dude!


----------



## Janderso

FOMOGO said:


> Here it is in relation to the mill. It's 10hp now,' but I have a 15hp to upgrade, which was an original option. Mike


As Forest Gump would say, Jesus H Christ Gump. That is one no nonsense metal removing face mill!


----------



## Brento

Bought 2 sets of gage pins off of ebay for the dividing head group project.  Should be here monday!


----------



## Janderso

Brento,
Send us a pic when you get them.


----------



## DavidR8

WobblyHand said:


> Received an early birthday present. A few days ago, when my wife asked me if I wanted anything for my birthday, I remembered a flyer I got from Ideal Precision. I printed it out, and put an arrow on the part number and highlighted the line. It was on sale. This arrived today.
> View attachment 365610
> 
> A new Model 312-B. The stem appears to be 4 mm in diameter, I don't have a holder that small. Have to get one. For the moment, I'll use the dovetails. Like the fact that the dovetails are replaceable.
> 
> Happy camper.



Happy birthday! 
I have the same indicator and it’s my favourite by far.


----------



## WobblyHand

DavidR8 said:


> Happy birthday!
> I have the same indicator and it’s my favourite by far.


Don't rush my birthday...  jk.  About to turn 65 at the end of the month.

Yes, this 312-B is very, very nice.  Unlike my other indicators, the bezel is very smooth to turn, making it a lot easier to zero.


----------



## DavidR8

The wallet carnage as a result of @davidpbest book begins. 
A CCMT 21.51 holder. 
Massive weight difference between this and my import SCLCR holder. I know it’s not but this feels like it’s carbide.


----------



## Badabinski

I absolutely love my Micro 100 toolholders. The biggest difference for me is that the screw doesn't get stuck. I'm not going crazy when tightening down my inserts, but my import holders always take an obscene amount of force to undo. Insert changes (which I do frequently because I'm a dingus who loves smashing my inserts into things) are now much easier, so I don't put up with chipped inserts the way I used to.


----------



## DAM 79

NCjeeper said:


> Nice score. I bought one last year. Company is still making these so parts and grinding wheels are available which is nice.


This thing is like brand new looks like it was hardly used !!!It took me a few minutes to figure out how to grind a drill bit but I got the hang of it now and it works great and I got some of the different degree angle guide with it too. Now I have to take some time and go thru and start to sharpen all the bits I have LOL . And this guy has a bunch of stuff he’s selling also like drill presses another surface grinder a little bit of everything I think he still has a mill or two also I would have to ask him next time I’m up there but it’s like 3 hours away . That is the one thing I have found out all the good deals you have to travel to get


----------



## EVMiller

Picked up a Criterion boring head


----------



## Larry$

Got a 10L Ultrasonic cleaner & a pack of 15 pc. Brass shim stock form .001 to .031".


----------



## Aukai

Not.....(ask Will)


----------



## John O

Got a set of CXA from accusize, need to mill down my 3/4" tools about .020 but will keep it.


----------



## darkzero

Aukai said:


> Not.....(ask Will)


----------



## Christianstark

John O said:


> Got a set of CXA from accusize, need to mill down my 3/4" tools about .020 but will keep it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 365751


Mill down the tools or the tool holders?


----------



## John O

Christianstark said:


> Mill down the tools or the tool holders?


Bottom of holders


----------



## Aukai

Ask Will the meaning of "not" no pictures so "not"


----------



## Janderso

Slide Rule.
One of my co-workers found this and gave it to me.
Any of you folks know how to use one of these? It looks like the sliding piece can be reversed. I don't know if the brand is SP Precision? Made in the USA.  Back when we were the China of today
They sent astronauts to the moon back in the Apollo days, using one of these things.


----------



## Aukai

A genuine slip stick, it came about right after the abacus  It sent men into space, but I only got as far as multiplication.


----------



## 682bear

Janderso said:


> Slide Rule.
> One of my co-workers found this and gave it to me.
> Any of you folks know how to use one of these? It looks like the sliding piece can be reversed. I don't know if the brand is SP Precision? Made in the USA.  Back when we were the China of today
> They sent astronauts to the moon back in the Apollo days, using one of these things.



My dad had one when I was a kid... he taught me to do a few functions with it, but thats been close to fourty years ago... I have no idea any more.

He probably still has it... he was a civil engineer, but took an early retirement and went back to school and became a machinist.

-Bear


----------



## francist

Here you go, enough information on Sterling Plastics slide rules to make your eyes go buggy…



			https://www.sliderulemuseum.com/Sterling.htm


----------



## WobblyHand

I had one in high school.  Used it when I was a junior for chemistry class.  Our chemistry teacher handed them out to all his students.  There were few calculators available then and they all were expensive.  Calculators were forbidden in that class.  It was his way of equalizing "wealth" in those days.  Basically slide rules are printed with logarithmic scales.  So to multiply one just adds the logarithms together.  To divide one subtracts the logs.  I guess in the end we had to look up the antilogs to get the results.  Jeepers, now I have to go downstairs and look at one.  When my dad died, I got his slipsticks.

Here's a link on how to use them: Slide rule seminar
Well shoot, was beaten to it by @francist!


----------



## WobblyHand

This 12" Pickett was used by my dad.  I wouldn't be surprised if he did calculations related to ICBM re-entry on it.  Have the leather case for it too.


I spent 18 months as a child on Kwajalein Island  (1964-1965).  The site used to launch anti-ballistic missiles from Kwajalein to intercept ICBMs launched from Vandenberg AFB.  The launches were awe inspiring, especially to an 8 year old.  We had air raid sirens go off, then there was a short time to launch.  We had to be in concrete buildings as a precaution to avoid exploding or malfunctioning missiles.  The whole island was maybe 6 feet above sea level, except for "Mount Olympus", the launch silo, which was perhaps 30 feet or so above sea level.  Nowadays the area is called the Ronald Reagan Ballistic Missile Defense Site.  Apparently the site is still active.


----------



## Papa Charlie

When I was in jr high school, my dad gave me his slide rule and taught me how to use it. I got the strangest looks from the class. Most had no idea what it was. I never really got good at it. But could do basic calculations.


----------



## erikmannie

Acid brushes. I use these to apply paste flux to steel before bronze brazing.




I got a half dozen: 3/8” diameter shaft, 6” length. This is medium sized; I like to apply plenty of flux.


----------



## Dhal22

WobblyHand said:


> This 12" Pickett was used by my dad.  I wouldn't be surprised if he did calculations related to ICBM re-entry on it.  Have the leather case for it too.
> View attachment 365817
> 
> I spent 18 months as a child on Kwajalein Island  (1964-1965).  The site used to launch anti-ballistic missiles from Kwajalein to intercept ICBMs launched from Vandenberg AFB.  The launches were awe inspiring, especially to an 8 year old.  We had air raid sirens go off, then there was a short time to launch.  We had to be in concrete buildings as a precaution to avoid exploding or malfunctioning missiles.  The whole island was maybe 6 feet above sea level, except for "Mount Olympus", the launch silo, which was perhaps 30 feet or so above sea level.  Nowadays the area is called the Ronald Reagan Ballistic Missile Defense Site.  Apparently the site is still active.



My dad and uncle used theirs on Saturn V design.   My dad still shows the grandkids once in awhile how to use one.


----------



## mickri

I still have mine from high school.  Used it in college too.  I used to know how to do all of the functions.  Forgotten most of it now.  Last time I tried using it was to solve the navigation triangles with celestial navigation on my sailboat.  Everybody uses GPS now for navigation.  The charts in the United States are really accurate.  Not so much in other parts of the world.  When I was down in Mexico cruising on my sailboat all of the charts were done in the early 1900's by the US Navy and had never been updated.  Latitude was pretty accurate but longitude was off by a couple of miles.  Especially in the Sea of Cortez and the west coast of Mexico.  The charts showed the land further west than it actually was.  You had to be careful.


----------



## Janderso

Dhal22 said:


> My dad and uncle used theirs on Saturn V design.   My dad still shows the grandkids once in awhile how to use one.


The fact that they didn't have calculators during the Mercury, Gemini or Apollo programs just blows me away. I think that's awesome that your dad shows the kids how to use the slide rule!!

I've watched this video at least 5 times over the past few years.
The Saturn V rockets were the coolest thing since The Wright Brothers flew.






In honor of Michael Collins, a great book! He is witty, funny and super smart.




__





						Carrying the Fire: Collins, Michael: 9780374537760: Amazon.com: Books
					

Carrying the Fire [Collins, Michael] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. Carrying the Fire



					www.amazon.com


----------



## Aaron_W

Janderso said:


> Slide Rule.
> One of my co-workers found this and gave it to me.
> Any of you folks know how to use one of these? It looks like the sliding piece can be reversed. I don't know if the brand is SP Precision? Made in the USA.  Back when we were the China of today
> They sent astronauts to the moon back in the Apollo days, using one of these things.



I found one a few years ago in a local thrift store, for $12.99 so I bought it for the novelty. A Pickett 902ES Trig slide rule probably early 1960s vintage, and made of magnesium for light weight. It was either unused or well cared for because it is in nice shape and still has everything in the box, instructions, parts list etc. 

Too bad I never took to Trig, I don't even remember how to do anything using a calculator.    




I think I still have one around here, but at the Forest Service we used to have plastic slide rules set up for doing hydraulic calculations for pumping. I never saw anybody use one of those either, most just relying on simple rules of thumb or even more basic if the guys are screaming for more water throttle up until it starts lifting them off the ground, then throttle back a turn.


----------



## Janderso

Aaron_W said:


> even more basic if the guys are screaming for more water throttle up until it starts lifting them off the ground, then throttle back a turn.


That's the way to get the job done!!
These slide rules are not all the same. There are subtle differences in the lines-designs. I wonder if some specialize for different fields of industry?
Watching videos on how to use them, it's kind of an educated swag. You have to decide which subgroup or decimal placement.


----------



## Aaron_W

Janderso said:


> That's the way to get the job done!!
> These slide rules are not all the same. There are subtle differences in the lines-designs. I wonder if some specialize for different fields of industry?
> Watching videos on how to use them, it's kind of an educated swag. You have to decide which subgroup or decimal placement.



Yeah if you peruse that slide rule museum they have them for a variety of math types and a bunch of specialized uses artillery, sewer, electrical work etc.


----------



## Brento

Well as requested these are the gage pins i got from ebay. The cases are really nice so i am happy there. I didnt get the chance to check a few pins for sizing. However these are the same pins that someone else on here bought on ebay at some point. They came to 200$ including shipping. I wasnt happy with the fact that i asked for them to be shipped in one box to save me shipping and i didnt get any refund for a difference back. But it is what it is. It was still cheaper then buying the pins i needed separately. @Janderso


----------



## Janderso

At first glance I thought you were cooking waffles.


----------



## DavidR8

Janderso said:


> At first glance I thought you were cooking waffles.



Ok I’m glad it wasn’t just me!


----------



## Dhal22

Janderso said:


> At first glance I thought you were cooking waffles.


----------



## Firstram

Picked up my taxes Friday, I don't owe a dime!  This frees up a fair amount of fun money.


----------



## WobblyHand

Got some 4140 rod in 5/8" and 1.75" diameters.  Going to make a couple of die stocks.  Going to use @davidpbest 's design, that David graciously posted in another thread.  As soon as I receive known stock I label it.  It doesn't take long, and it sure helps with identification later.  For me, CRS doesn't mean cold rolled steel...

Also purchased a 0.020" thick slitting saw.  Will make a collet for my Interapid DTI.  Thought a 0.020" wide slit would be more suitable than a 0.060" slit for a 4mm diameter part.


----------



## Shootymacshootface

What I didn't buy today. 
I was at Tractor Supply today and was walking by the steel rack. I noticed that they had some 1" × 36" round stock. I backed up a few steps to see how much it costs. I was a little surprised when I saw that it was $39.99.
I don't buy material very often at all. I source most of my metal from scrapped truck parts and such. Honestly, I do worry a bit about where my materials will come from when I retire.


----------



## davidpbest

WobblyHand said:


> Got some 4140 rod in 5/8" and 1.75" diameters.  Going to make a couple of die stocks.  Going to use @davidpbest 's design, that David graciously posted in another thread.  As soon as I receive known stock I label it.  It doesn't take long, and it sure helps with identification later.  For me, CRS doesn't mean cold rolled steel...


I have noticed some variation in threading die dimensions.  I recommend you verify the thickness and locking-screw recess placement around the perimeter before you begin machining.  Match the counterbore depth to the thickness of the die, and place the locking set screws to correspond to the divot placement in the outside of the die.  The divots are centered on the thickness of the die, but the clocking positions seem to vary.  If your dies are adjustable, make sure you aren't placing the locking setscrews where they will compress the split in the die.  And good luck.


----------



## WobblyHand

davidpbest said:


> I have noticed some variation in threading die dimensions.  I recommend you verify the thickness and locking-screw recess placement around the perimeter before you begin machining.  Match the counterbore depth to the thickness of the die, and place the locking set screws to correspond to the divot placement in the outside of the die.  The divots are centered on the thickness of the die, but the clocking positions seem to vary.  If your dies are adjustable, make sure you aren't placing the locking setscrews where they will compress the split in the die.  And good luck.


Thanks for the tips, especially about the adjustable dies.  I have a couple of adjustables, so that's an important thing to watch out for.  Thanks for wishing me luck, it will be needed, along with a bit of perseverance.  I do find it a bit amazing that a quality die stock is not all that easy to find these days.  Looking forward to starting this project.


----------



## 7milesup

Dhal22 said:


> My dad and uncle used theirs on Saturn V design.   My dad still shows the grandkids once in awhile how to use one.


That is crazy.   I wonder if they knew Jim Adams.  He is a good friend of mine that lives just down the road.  He was one of a dozen or so guys that did the calculations for re-entry on the Apollo missions.  Some of his work is in a museum in Topeka.
Jim also just posted a picture on Facebook of Michael Collins sitting in a simulator as they reviewed the re-entry procedures.  Such cool stuff...


----------



## Dhal22

7milesup said:


> That is crazy.   I wonder if they knew Jim Adams.  He is a good friend of mine that lives just down the road.  He was one of a dozen or so guys that did the calculations for re-entry on the Apollo missions.  Some of his work is in a museum in Topeka.
> Jim also just posted a picture on Facebook of Michael Collins sitting in a simulator as they reviewed the re-entry procedures.  Such cool stuff...




I think they worked for Rockwell at that time? My dad had a very minor job whereas my uncle was one of the designers.   Fuel pumps I think,  I can ask,  although he's 82 now.


----------



## GreatOldOne

2 new old stock mitutoyo clocks. 
	

		
			
		

		
	





And 2 150x150 x 20mm steel plates to make into press plates for my bench press


----------



## FOMOGO

I'm going to blame this purchase totally on Bruce Hansen. 


BGHansen said:


> Let me guess, rigging up something with the combine to level your driveway! That thing is HUGE!


Saw these on a facebook market place ad for an estate sale. The ad said things were for sale before the actual Sat/Sun event. Called the lady who was running the event and went up to take a look ended up buying a 170C Case/Poclain excavator, and a 1981 Peterbuilt tandem dump, 400 big cam Cummins, 13 spd road ranger new tires up front and passable on the rears, looks like new rear brakes. The the dump box is in nice shape inside, not a dent in it, but someone tried dumping a load on un-level ground, and ended up breaking both rear hinge points, and twisting up the box frame pretty good. Should be a pretty easy fix, maybe a two-three day job, but for $4500 I couldn't pass it up. Got it running, and moving yesterday, and am just going to chain down the bed, and sneak it home (six miles), and park it until I have time to work on it, probably next year sometime. Got the excavator running after locating, and fixing several bailing wire repairs to the fuel shutoff and throttle.  Sounds really strong, German Deutz air cooled straight six turbo diesel.  The boom and bucket hydraulics work fine, no sign of any leaks on any of the cylinders, but haven't been able to get the swing or tracks to function, I think there is some kind of lockout that is the issue. Will hopefully figure that out tomorrow. Have a guy lined up to move it for me. 34 ton is a little more than I can manage on my own. Also got 35 gal of Hyd oil, five gal of 80/90 gear lube, and 5 gal of diesel engine oil for $100, and four T-slot hold downs for $5 each. Cheers, Mike


----------



## brino

@FOMOGO 

What? You left the two dozers?!?!




-brino


----------



## FOMOGO

I thought about it, but just to prove to myself that I have some form of self constraint, I held my tongue. Mike



brino said:


> What? You left the two dozers?!?!


----------



## brino

FOMOGO said:


> I thought about it, but just to prove to myself that I have some form of self constraint, I held my tongue. Mike



Got it.
Your getting them on the weekend......  

-brino


----------



## erikmannie

8” long, 2 1/4” diameter 12L14 round bar. This is for the Dividing Head Group Project. $25.27 delivered.







Forum member @Flyinfool (Jeff) made the drawing. He did an amazing job on the drawings for the Dividing Head Group Project.

If this eBay seller comes through, I may buy the rest of the 12L14 round bar from them.


----------



## Papa Charlie

FOMOGO said:


> I'm going to blame this purchase totally on Bruce Hansen.
> 
> Saw these on a facebook market place ad for an estate sale. The ad said things were for sale before the actual Sat/Sun event. Called the lady who was running the event and went up to take a look ended up buying a 170C Case/Poclain excavator, and a 1981 Peterbuilt tandem dump, 400 big cam Cummins, 13 spd road ranger new tires up front and passable on the rears, looks like new rear brakes. The the dump box is in nice shape inside, not a dent in it, but someone tried dumping a load on un-level ground, and ended up breaking both rear hinge points, and twisting up the box frame pretty good. Should be a pretty easy fix, maybe a two-three day job, but for $4500 I couldn't pass it up. Got it running, and moving yesterday, and am just going to chain down the bed, and sneak it home (six miles), and park it until I have time to work on it, probably next year sometime. Got the excavator running after locating, and fixing several bailing wire repairs to the fuel shutoff and throttle.  Sounds really strong, German Deutz air cooled straight six turbo diesel.  The boom and bucket hydraulics work fine, no sign of any leaks on any of the cylinders, but haven't been able to get the swing or tracks to function, I think there is some kind of lockout that is the issue. Will hopefully figure that out tomorrow. Have a guy lined up to move it for me. 34 ton is a little more than I can manage on my own. Also got 35 gal of Hyd oil, five gal of 80/90 gear lube, and 5 gal of diesel engine oil for $100, and four T-slot hold downs for $5 each. Cheers, Mike



Mike,

Congrats on the amazing finds. That truck for $4500 is a great buy.

I know I am going to regret asking this, but please tell me you did not pay $4500 for both the truck and the excavator? I can maybe see it for the truck, but the excavator???

If you don't mind me asking, what did you give for the excavator? I have been watching the adds and auctions around me and they are going for ridiculous money in my area.


----------



## FOMOGO

No, $4500 for both would have been great, but I ended up paying $12.5k for the excavator. They were asking 15. Something that size new is probably around half a mill today. Mike



Papa Charlie said:


> I know I am going to regret asking this, but please tell me you did not pay $4500 for both the truck and the excavator? I can maybe see it for the truck, but the excavator???


----------



## erikmannie

1 gallon of Mobil Vactra #2 on Amazon. $43.27 delivered.


----------



## BGHansen

FOMOGO said:


> No, $4500 for both would have been great, but I ended up paying $12.5k for the excavator. They were asking 15. Something that size new is probably around half a mill today. Mike


Hi Mike,

Glad to help you out spending some money!    

There is something therapeutic about mowing, plowing and moving dirt in general.  I put feed plots in 10 years ago with a Massey 35 tractor, started with a 2-bottom plow.  My plan was to make them about 30 feet wide, but I got mesmerized watching the dirt turn over and ended up with about 75 feet wide x 600 ft.

Bruce


----------



## Papa Charlie

FOMOGO said:


> No, $4500 for both would have been great, but I ended up paying $12.5k for the excavator. They were asking 15. Something that size new is probably around half a mill today. Mike



Mike,
Thanks for sharing. That is still a very good price, especially if it were in my area. I have seen some pretty rough machines that didn't run, couldn't move and were basically a metal heap that the were asking in the $20k Plus range. Talked with one guy and by the time I finished totaling it up in my head the price of the repairs would have added another $10k. That included have to separate the track from the unit as the swing gears had issues along with the track hydraulics and final drives.


----------



## macardoso

erikmannie said:


> 1 gallon of Mobil Vactra #2 on Amazon. $43.27 delivered.
> 
> View attachment 366113


McMaster sells for $32, but you'd probably pay $10-15 in shipping.


----------



## EVMiller

More stuff!! Time to make some way covers, tram my vise and finally start breaking  making things on my new mill!


----------



## NCjeeper

A couple of E-Bay scores to hang in the shop office.


----------



## FOMOGO

Been looking for photo's like that myself. Nice score. Mike


----------



## Brento

I bought a 4 jaw for my watchmaker lathe from Sherline. And tmr i will be placing an order for angle gages, angle bars, and a set of 18 5c collets with a collet rack for 88$ on the collets. Not sure the accuracy on the collets so that may be passed up. I dont think worse then .0005.


----------



## Ianagos

NCjeeper said:


> A couple of E-Bay scores to hang in the shop office.
> View attachment 366190
> 
> View attachment 366191



Those are some big machines to be putting in the office...


----------



## 682bear

I just arrived back home with a trailer load...




Two machines... the first is a 21" Buffalo Forge camelback drill press... and orange, no less...




The paint is peeling, but otherwise it seems to be in very nice condition.

The other machine is a Hendey Tie Bar lathe... I'm getting pretty good at buying Hendeys...




It is a 14x8... It should fit around 54" between centers.

It came with a taper attachment...




...a 4 jaw combination chuck, dog drive plate, and face plate...




...a set of collets with the spindle sleeve, collet drawbar, and drawbar mount (for storage), and the original wood collet box...







...steady rest...




...micrometer carriage stop...




...and a couple of boxes of tooling...







I also got the original countershaft and a motor with it...
	

		
			
		

		
	




-Bear


----------



## FOMOGO

Looks like you hit the jackpot on that one. Very nice. Cheers, Mike


----------



## Papa Charlie

@682bear  I love the look of the old camel back drill presses. I see them in use in many shops still today. They seem like they would be very useful in tall parts requiring a lot of quill travel and I have seen some used, maybe not to the best, but as line boring machines.,


----------



## DavidR8

What a score @682bear!
I love that wooden box. Those name plates are just fantastic.


----------



## darkzero

I've already got a bench top chamfering machine but I picked up this little guy to do internal chamfering like for holes. Little guy it is, this thing is tiny, much smaller than I expected! Looks like it uses TCMT 21.5x inserts. $50 shipped, from China.


----------



## Firstram

darkzero said:


> I've already got a bench top chamfering machine but I picked up this little guy to do internal chamfering like for holes. Little guy it is, this thing is tiny, much smaller than I expected! Looks like it uses TCMT 21.5x inserts. $50 shipped, from China.
> 
> View attachment 366384
> 
> View attachment 366385
> 
> View attachment 366386


Link?


----------



## darkzero

76.86US $ |Mini Pneumatic Chamfering Machine 45 Degree Arc Hand Held Beveling Trimming Machine for Metal Trimming and Deburring| |   - AliExpress
					

Smarter Shopping, Better Living!  Aliexpress.com




					www.aliexpress.com


----------



## Firstram

Thanks!


----------



## darkzero

Firstram said:


> Thanks!



No problem. Looks like it's on sale right now too ($37 + shipping). $7 cheaper than what I paid.  They have em on ebay & Amazon (3rd party sellers) also for $60-$100. But when I looked they all were shipping from China so that's why I decided to check aliexpress. There's also slightly different styles available slso.


----------



## DavidR8

On sale for $46 CDN wow!


----------



## Winegrower

I got four more (up to 30 now) CXA tool holders from Amazon.   The price was good at $22, delivery was fast.
I was impressed at the surface grinding, almost mirror finish, and the bluing or whatever they do to the rest of the block is perfect, as far as I can tell.   The height adjustment feels smooth and just the right torque required.   Just for fun, I used a couple gage pins and measured the dovetail on all four.   There was a maximum of 3 thousandths variance, and all closed at exactly the same QCTP lever position.  I’m satisfied.


----------



## darkzero

Round & square sandpaper holders by Foredom/Orobrush.


----------



## FOMOGO

Bought some turning stock today, around 1000lbs, along with a few other items. Got four sections of alum. speed shoring (for shoring up trenching) 7'x8" with two hyd. cylinders per unit. Some of them require a little straightening, but over all in pretty good condition. not sure what I'll do with them yet, but for the price I had to grab them. Also got a Lempco arbor press that will be taking a bath in some Evaporust. It's missing the turntable, so I will be cutting the head of that big pin in the pic, and making one. Some 440V 3 phase switching items that I will be cleaning up, and selling, or trading for 220 stuff, and a couple of limit switches, along with a new Square D, 2hp rotary switch. $145 for the whole works. Pretty happy camper, but I'm quickly running out of room. Cheers, Mike


----------



## Brento

darkzero said:


> Round & square sandpaper holders by Foredom/Orobrush.
> 
> View attachment 366651
> 
> View attachment 366650


Will have to tell us how they work out! And the price tag!


----------



## erikmannie

Items for the Dividing Head Group Project:

(1) three more lengths of 12L14 round bar: 8” length, 2 1/4” diameter ($59.44 delivered for three):




(2) 2 heavy hex nuts: 1 1/2”, 12 tpi:




(3) Shars 1-2” screw thread micrometer as below.





__





						1-2" Screw Thread Micrometer
					

Shars Tool




					www.shars.com


----------



## Brento

For the small things i will be doing in my shop i will be using this as a surface plate until i need something with more precise. It is a decent size that i am going to see if i can work out a way to have one side for flat top sanding.


----------



## Baja_Dude

Purchased a rotary broach tool holder (3/4 straight shank) and would like to mount it to my MT3 tailstock; are there adaptors for that?


----------



## erikmannie

Baja_Dude said:


> Purchased a rotary broach tool holder (3/4 straight shank) and would like to mount it to my MT3 tailstock; are there adaptors for that?



Google search “MT3 to straight shank extension socket”.

One could also fabricate one. It is easy to find an MT3 blank like this:






						Shank MT3 Morse Taper Soft Blank End Arbor -Lathe Mill Drill Teng Type 25 x 30mm - - Amazon.com
					

Shank MT3 Morse Taper Soft Blank End Arbor -Lathe Mill Drill Teng Type 25 x 30mm - - Amazon.com



					www.amazon.com


----------



## Baja_Dude

erikmannie - thank you for the tip. all i seem to find are mt3 to mt4 and such; nothing jumps out as mt3 to straight shank.
they do make items where you can fab your own 'machine end'. starts with an MT3 on one end and you bore out the other to get what you need. is that what you were referring to?


----------



## erikmannie

Baja_Dude said:


> erikmannie - thank you for the tip. all i seem to find are mt3 to mt4 and such; nothing jumps out as mt3 to straight shank.
> they do make items where you can fab your own 'machine end'. starts with an MT3 on one end and you bore out the other to get what you need. is that what you were referring to?



Did you see this?



			https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00185090
		


Also, this is a screenshot of the MSC catalog (the link is in the product description/specs of the adapter above).




I have to hurry off to work now, but I will let you know how I would make an adapter when I get home from work. It would start with an MT3 machinable blank in your tailstock, and probably drills and finally a 3/4” chucking reamer in a lathe chuck. Something like that.


----------



## Baja_Dude

Thanks! my tailstock is MT3 and the shank on the rotary broach tool holder is 3/4 in straight shank. 
i need to get the straight shank tool into the tailstock; would the item listed in the link allow me to do that?

if so, my guess is that i would need to drill out a 3/4 inch hole in the item for the straight shank and then put the assembly into the tailstock.
does that sound about right?


----------



## darkzero

Baja_Dude said:


> Thanks! my tailstock is MT3 and the shank on the rotary broach tool holder is 3/4 in straight shank.
> i need to get the straight shank tool into the tailstock; would the item listed in the link allow me to do that?
> 
> if so, my guess is that i would need to drill out a 3/4 inch hole in the item for the straight shank and then put the assembly into the tailstock.
> does that sound about right?



Nope, those MT sockets are actually opposite of what you need. They have a MT hole with straight OD.

What you could use is a MT3 3/4" endmill holder or a MT3 rotabroach/annular cutter holder (BTW even though the name sounds similar, a rotabroach is not the same as a rotary broach). These holders have set screws to use with Weldon shanks. The endmill holder has one set screw for a single flat on the shank. Annular cutters have two set screws for 2 flats, 90° from each other. If your rotary broach has a flat on it, you can use one of these, assuming the set screw lines up. For the annular cutter you would simply not use the second set screw.

You could also use an MT3 ER collet chuck or a just drill chuck if you really needed. Not sure of the drill chuck is a good idea though.

This is a MT endmill holder. Keep in mind that they are meant to be used in a mill with a drawbar so they have threads at the end. You'll need to make some sort of tang if it's too short to be ejected by you lathe's tailstock. Can be as simple a bolt.




This is a MT annular cutter holder, you can find them with tangs.



And for reference, this is an annular cutter/rotabroach showing the 2 flats. Rotabroach is just the trade name for annular cutters.


----------



## darkzero

Brento said:


> Will have to tell us how they work out! And the price tag!



They were just one of those things that I have never seen before & thought could be useful someday. Inexpensive so I bought em. They were less than $5 each from Micro Tools. Now that I see how they work I could have easily made them better but for the price I still would have bought them.


----------



## Brento

My issue is to keeping the sand paper in the spot. Does it close tight enough to keep the paper stationary or does it want to move alot. Nothing worse then doing benchwork and the sandpaper keeps slipping and tearing your hands up.


----------



## llamatrails

Baja_Dude said:


> Thanks! my tailstock is MT3 and the shank on the rotary broach tool holder is 3/4 in straight shank.
> i need to get the straight shank tool into the tailstock; would the item listed in the link allow me to do that?
> 
> if so, my guess is that i would need to drill out a 3/4 inch hole in the item for the straight shank and then put the assembly into the tailstock.
> does that sound about right?



MT3 3/4" ROUND COLLET (3900-0891) :  Price: US $12.38








						MT3 3/4" ROUND COLLET (3900-0891) 769053017877 | eBay
					

MT3 3/4" Round Collet. AIR, POWER & HAND TOOLS. 3/8"-16 internally threaded end. Get It Quick! Morse taper is external. Why should you buy from us?.



					www.ebay.com


----------



## Brento

Ordered some stock for the dividing head project. And a Micro 100 boring bar to bore a deep hole for the same project. Also bought 4 slugs of 1 1/4 by 12" aluminum off amazon. Cheaper then hobby metals at .75 cents and inch instead of 1.07 an inch.  Id rather have long bars so you have resource for things longer buy since i dont have a bandsaw these will work perfectly.


----------



## extropic

I got these two pocket sized flashlights over the weekend.

$30.64 delivered for both. There was a sale. Prices are up to $19.99 each (+ tax) right now. 

All aluminum housings with O-ring seals, supposed to be IP65 waterproof.
The heads swivel between straight and 90°.
They come with a removeable pocket clip and strong magnetic base.
Head has a flat surface and the tail cap is hex so they won't roll off the . . .
The larger uses an 18650 battery and the smaller uses either AA or 14500.

They have pushbutton switches , at the head, which are "Smarter" than any others I've got.
To turn on, or off, you have to depress the push-button for about two seconds. I think that may minimize accidental activation in a pocket or tool box.
Once the light is on, a simple quick click cycles through the brightness levels (2 on the 14500 size and 4 on the 18650 size).
To activate the strobe or SOS modes you hold the switch, from off, for about 4 seconds. Then a quick click cycles between the two modes. This means you never have to cycle through strobe or SOS unless you want to. Hurray!
Now for the cherry on the cupcake: When you turn the flashlight on, it is always in the brightness level it was when you turned it off. No unnecessary pushing the button to get back to where you were.

@darkzero have pity.    I'm far from an LED Guru. Just a pilgrim wandering through.



			https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FFKJVT1?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
		




			https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HRRSQNC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details


----------



## Bi11Hudson

So I acquired a couple of things. I'm always acquiring things but most of them would be meaningless here. The most interesting is a "nibbler", presumably for sheet metal work. An interesting name, "Bad Dog Biter".


I have several sheet metal shapers. From hand nibblers through air driven nibblers to a sort of a shear mounted on a drill motor with fingers, one moving, that cuts a sliver a quarter inch or so wide. This thing looks to mount to a drill motor, beyond that I'll figure it out when it gets here. If'n it works. . .

The other thing is my curiosity got the best of me what all the foo fah rah is about an Albrecht chuck. I found one of a size that would be useful to me, 0-3/8 inch. It was cheap enough, just a dollar more than the other bidder. I figure to mount it on a "sensitive" drill post and hang it in the Wun Hung Lo mini mill that is my drill press.



It's a real Albrecht, not a clone. I'll find out just how close to zero really is. I use a Nr 80 drill(0.0135) on a not-infrequent basis. And some 0.008 brass wire, maybe. . . But for less than $50 bux, worth a try-out. I currently use a cobbled together contraption to deal with small drills. If this works out, it should reduce my parts count and free up another pin vise.

I don't _need_ either device, but the prices were reasonable and they should be useful(?) if they work out.

.


----------



## hman

I have a similar air nibbler.  Used it on some thin sheet metal once ... was picking sharp steel quarter-moons out of my shoe soles for a day or two.  An effective tool, but really nasty "swarf."


----------



## mmcmdl

hman said:


> I have a similar air nibbler. Used it on some thin sheet metal once ... was picking sharp steel quarter-moons out of my shoe soles for a day or two. An effective tool, but really nasty "swarf."


You can also ad a 14N SBB in the next few days to your list . Sent you a pm .


----------



## Aukai

The nibblers are the Devils toe nails, just as nasty as cast iron on the lathe, if not worse. The last resort for me now.


----------



## MrCrankyface

Found myself a properly sized caliper!   
Got it somewhat cheap on an auction site, a bit less limiting than my normal 15cm ones.


----------



## DAM 79

Bi11Hudson said:


> So I acquired a couple of things. I'm always acquiring things but most of them would be meaningless here. The most interesting is a "nibbler", presumably for sheet metal work. An interesting name, "Bad Dog Biter".
> View attachment 367339
> 
> I have several sheet metal shapers. From hand nibblers through air driven nibblers to a sort of a shear mounted on a drill motor with fingers, one moving, that cuts a sliver a quarter inch or so wide. This thing looks to mount to a drill motor, beyond that I'll figure it out when it gets here. If'n it works. . .
> 
> The other thing is my curiosity got the best of me what all the foo fah rah is about an Albrecht chuck. I found one of a size that would be useful to me, 0-3/8 inch. It was cheap enough, just a dollar more than the other bidder. I figure to mount it on a "sensitive" drill post and hang it in the Wun Hung Lo mini mill that is my drill press.
> 
> View attachment 367340
> 
> It's a real Albrecht, not a clone. I'll find out just how close to zero really is. I use a Nr 80 drill(0.0135) on a not-infrequent basis. And some 0.008 brass wire, maybe. . . But for less than $50 bux, worth a try-out. I currently use a cobbled together contraption to deal with small drills. If this works out, it should reduce my parts count and free up another pin vise.
> 
> I don't _need_ either device, but the prices were reasonable and they should be useful(?) if they work out.
> 
> .


All those tools for cutting sheet metal have there place depending on what your cutting and where your trying to cut with how much room you have around you I have done sheet metal ductwork for years and have different hand snips that will cut left and right and straight also have a pair of electric double cut shears that is corded and plugs in the wall and that is really handy on the thicker  metal I also have a circle cutter that hooks to your cordless drill that is super handy


----------



## Bi11Hudson

DAM 79 said:


> All those tools for cutting sheet metal have there place depending on what your cutting and where your trying to cut with how much room you have around you I have done sheet metal ductwork for years and have different hand snips that will cut left and right and straight also have a pair of electric double cut shears that is corded and plugs in the wall and that is really handy on the thicker  metal I also have a circle cutter that hooks to your cordless drill that is super handy


Most of my work is (was) on electrical control/graphics panels. Plus the usual tinkering at home with roofing materials. There is some model work but that is so light it really isn't a consideration here. I learned a loonnngggg time back about swarf, hot metal, welding sparks, and other scrap falling in my shoes. Especially hot metal, what we called "buck shot" iron. When liquid iron "free falls", it forms a round blob. I have many, many scars from buck shot iron. Working in a foundry will do that to a fellow. . . There is a "safety shoe" specifically for foundrymen. Called a "foundry shoe", it can be kicked off almost instantly when hot(liquid) metal gets inside. I learned early, some never did.

A few years back, I worked with an industrial electronics fellow that built "home made" airplanes. For the aircraft industry, his opinion of sheet metal snips was "Left, Right, and Useless". I figured it was related to the lack of straight lines on airplanes. I frequently used, and appreciated, the straight cutting snips. We never could come to terms on terminology. . .

The reasoning behind the listed contraption is simply that I had never seen such a device. It was cheap, so might be someone's idea of a "labor saving" device without any real thought going into it. If it's useful, I may look for a higher quality version. If it's junk, I'll leave it out on the floor for the next time someone is on a "stealing" trip. I get broken into every couple of years, usually when the mills are shut down and people get hungry.(for a drug fix) Same "stuff", different day. . . 

.

.


----------



## Ken from ontario

double post


----------



## Ken from ontario

Bi11Hudson said:


> So I acquired a couple of things. I'm always acquiring things but most of them would be meaningless here. The most interesting is a "nibbler", presumably for sheet metal work. An interesting name, "Bad Dog Biter".
> View attachment 367339
> 
> I have several sheet metal shapers. From hand nibblers through air driven nibblers to a sort of a shear mounted on a drill motor with fingers, one moving, that cuts a sliver a quarter inch or so wide. This thing looks to mount to a drill motor, beyond that I'll figure it out when it gets here. If'n it works. . .
> 
> The other thing is my curiosity got the best of me what all the foo fah rah is about an Albrecht chuck. I found one of a size that would be useful to me, 0-3/8 inch. It was cheap enough, just a dollar more than the other bidder. I figure to mount it on a "sensitive" drill post and hang it in the Wun Hung Lo mini mill that is my drill press.
> 
> View attachment 367340
> 
> It's a real Albrecht, not a clone. I'll find out just how close to zero really is. I use a Nr 80 drill(0.0135) on a not-infrequent basis. And some 0.008 brass wire, maybe. . . But for less than $50 bux, worth a try-out. I currently use a cobbled together contraption to deal with small drills. If this works out, it should reduce my parts count and free up another pin vise.
> 
> I don't _need_ either device, but the prices were reasonable and they should be useful(?) if they work out.
> 
> .


I always wanted to try one of those nibblers but the genuine model (CaNibble) was just as expensive as the electric nibblers , they do create some waste as they cut just like the scissor type electric shears.
it would be great to hear what you think of the one you bought, it seems to be a clone but if it actually does what it claims, they are cheap enough to replace.


----------



## devils4ever

Wiha 10-Piece T Handle Hex Key Set (Imperial: 3/32" to 3/8"). Really nicely made.

I've been using my HF set for a few years now and it isn't a bad set. However, they are getting a little worn and they are missing some sizes which is really annoying. The HF set is missing sizes: 7/64", 9/64", and 1/4". I don't know how it's missing the 1/4" size!

I'm ordering the 8-Piece Wiha Metric version next.


----------



## BladesIIB

devils4ever said:


> Wiha 10-Piece T Handle Hex Key Set (Imperial: 3/32" to 3/8"). Really nicely made.
> 
> I've been using my HF set for a few years now and it isn't a bad set. However, they are getting a little worn and they are missing some sizes which is really annoying. The HF set is missing sizes: 7/64", 9/64", and 1/4". I don't know how it's missing the 1/4" size!
> 
> I'm ordering the 8-Piece Wiha Metric version next.
> 
> View attachment 367386


I just got those and the metric set this week as well. They are nice. Mine was the 8 piece in the stand. Ordered a couple of the screw driver style to make up for the couple I needed below 1/8”.


----------



## BladesIIB

Big purchase today!  Tormach 1100MX with accessories showed up today. Will get the full delivery video out late this weekend or early next week. Sons graduation is this weekend so may be a week or so before I get these big crates opened up and have a chance to get it set up. Also, there are two main pieces on back order but the majority is here!  I have a lot of manual machining experience, pretty excited to tackle CNC.


----------



## devils4ever

BladesIIB said:


> I just got those and the metric set this week as well. They are nice. Mine was the 8 piece in the stand. Ordered a couple of the screw driver style to make up for the couple I needed below 1/8”.



Yeah, I want to make one stand for both sets like my HF set to keep them all together.


----------



## Papa Charlie

BladesIIB said:


> Big purchase today!  Tormach 1100MX with accessories showed up today. Will get the full delivery video out late this weekend or early next week. Sons graduation is this weekend so may be a week or so before I get these big crates opened up and have a chance to get it set up. Also, there are two main pieces on back order but the majority is here!  I have a lot of manual machining experience, pretty excited to tackle CNC.



A friend of mine got one of these last year. Loves it. He already had a CNC Router so had some exposure to the CNC side of things. Of course this is different, but concept is the same.

I think you are going to love this unit. I have been impressed with what he has been able to do with it. Only draw back that I can see is that you can't do any heavy cuts, like on some other manuals and much larger CNC's. But short of that, I would love to have one of these myself.


----------



## BladesIIB

Papa Charlie said:


> A friend of mine got one of these last year. Loves it. He already had a CNC Router so had some exposure to the CNC side of things. Of course this is different, but concept is the same.
> 
> I think you are going to love this unit. I have been impressed with what he has been able to do with it. Only draw back that I can see is that you can't do any heavy cuts, like on some other manuals and much larger CNC's. But short of that, I would love to have one of these myself.


Good to know. I do have a manual mill, will be sure to do that for bigger items. What I really need this for is knife parts, handle slabs etc. so smaller items and not mass removal. Should be a good match for what I have planned for it.


----------



## NC Rick

Not here yet but I purchased a new Jet shop press on Amazon…. Ouch!  Used good ones cost a ton too and most are much bigger than I need. I got the 15 ton model. I hope it is as good as it looks and I paid for!


----------



## NCjeeper

devils4ever said:


> Wiha 10-Piece T Handle Hex Key Set (Imperial: 3/32" to 3/8"). Really nicely made.
> 
> I've been using my HF set for a few years now and it isn't a bad set. However, they are getting a little worn and they are missing some sizes which is really annoying. The HF set is missing sizes: 7/64", 9/64", and 1/4". I don't know how it's missing the 1/4" size!
> 
> I'm ordering the 8-Piece Wiha Metric version next.
> 
> View attachment 367386


You get those from Jersey discount tools?


----------



## devils4ever

NCjeeper said:


> You get those from Jersey discount tools?



No. Zoro on Ebay. Got it quick at a good price.


----------



## jwmay

I got a carbon steel die which was advertised as a HSS tap set, die set, tap only, die only with pictures of both. I knew better, but I got curious what 8 bucks would get me. Now I know! Haha!


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Ken from ontario said:


> I always wanted to try one of those nibblers but the genuine model (CaNibble) was just as expensive as the electric nibblers , they do create some waste as they cut just like the scissor type electric shears.
> it would be great to hear what you think of the one you bought, it seems to be a clone but if it actually does what it claims, they are cheap enough to replace.


Well, it (nibbler) showed up today. I can't say I was impressed, *but* I can't say it was money wasted either. It came in a steel case, sorta like a drill index. Up front, that did indicate a well marketed tool. I tried it, it's no more or no less than the air nibbler. The only advantage is the deep reach. Working on roofing it's just as easy to grab the air tool. When in a deep corner, it would prove to be money well spent. That and storage; using a drill motor as the power source makes for a small tool. I'm not in commercial work any more so it's just another tool. But for an occasional / casual user, it sure beats the commercial version. I would say go for it. . . But at the Amazon price, there's not much in savings.

.


----------



## Badabinski

Managed to get an original Sheldon steady rest for my L-44! I wasn't sure if this was the right one for my lathe (parts manuals indicate an L-575A/1 and this is just an L-575), but it fits great and works well. It's also in fairly good shape, although it could use a good scrubbing.




I've been looking for an original steady rest for years now, and this is the first one I happened to catch. I paid more than I probably should have, but I just really didn't want to go to the trouble of making my own.


----------



## 682bear

Badabinski said:


> Managed to get an original Sheldon steady rest for my L-44! I wasn't sure if this was the right one for my lathe (parts manuals indicate an L-575A/1 and this is just an L-575), but it fits great and works well. It's also in fairly good shape, although it could use a good scrubbing.
> 
> View attachment 367409
> 
> 
> I've been looking for an original steady rest for years now, and this is the first one I happened to catch. I paid more than I probably should have, but I just really didn't want to go to the trouble of making my own.



I finally found one for my South Bend 14-½ last year... it was 'stupid money' expensive, but I figured I may never see another one, so I bought it.

The pain of paying for it didn't last long...

-Bear


----------



## Brento

Ik in the next year or so i will be doing the same thing for my SB 9A


----------



## erikmannie

My wife bought me this for my 55th birthday. It was my first & only choice.





__





						Introduction to Indexable Tooling for the Metal Lathe: A User Guide: Best, David P.: 9798713564643: Amazon.com: Books
					

Introduction to Indexable Tooling for the Metal Lathe: A User Guide [Best, David P.] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. Introduction to Indexable Tooling for the Metal Lathe: A User Guide



					www.amazon.com
				




Also, I get 1 audiobook per month, and I just downloaded this:




Audible does not have very many metalcrafting books (that I have seen). I might start a thread one day on recommendations for welding & machining books on Audible.


----------



## BladesIIB

Got the first video put together of the delivery of this Tormach 1100MX and unboxing and going through all the accessories.  Little demo of the California Air Tools compressor and how quiet it is.  Really impressed with the quality of everything so far from Tormach and their customer service.  With the long weekend, I am hoping to get into the big crates and start setting it up tomorrow.  My sons Graduation today so I can't skip that to play.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Bi11Hudson said:


> So I acquired a couple of things. I'm always acquiring things but most of them would be meaningless here. The most interesting is a "nibbler", presumably for sheet metal work. An interesting name, "Bad Dog Biter".
> View attachment 367339
> 
> I have several sheet metal shapers. From hand nibblers through air driven nibblers to a sort of a shear mounted on a drill motor with fingers, one moving, that cuts a sliver a quarter inch or so wide. This thing looks to mount to a drill motor, beyond that I'll figure it out when it gets here. If'n it works. . .
> 
> The other thing is my curiosity got the best of me what all the foo fah rah is about an Albrecht chuck. I found one of a size that would be useful to me, 0-3/8 inch. It was cheap enough, just a dollar more than the other bidder. I figure to mount it on a "sensitive" drill post and hang it in the Wun Hung Lo mini mill that is my drill press.
> 
> View attachment 367340
> 
> It's a real Albrecht, not a clone. I'll find out just how close to zero really is. I use a Nr 80 drill(0.0135) on a not-infrequent basis. And some 0.008 brass wire, maybe. . . But for less than $50 bux, worth a try-out. I currently use a cobbled together contraption to deal with small drills. If this works out, it should reduce my parts count and free up another pin vise.
> 
> I don't _need_ either device, but the prices were reasonable and they should be useful(?) if they work out.
> 
> .


If you're interested, the Albrecht chuck was a no-go. It it not a 0-3/8, it only closes to 1/32 or so. It won't get used, just sit on a shelf. Or maybe attach to Wife's pen making drill press. But I can't use it. My machines open to 1/2 and 3/4 inch.

.


----------



## devils4ever

Got my metric Wiha T Handle Hex Key set to match my Imperial set (See post 5919).

I got this set from MSC since they had free shipping.


----------



## Brento

Last weekend i bought the black on with the stand this weekend i got the 2 orange ones. I would like to turn them into hobby shop surface plates. I have 20$ total into these.  Just need a few steps in the right direction on if i can lap these in or if i need same sizes and color.


----------



## NC Rick

erikmannie said:


> My wife bought me this for my 55th birthday. It was my first & only choice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Introduction to Indexable Tooling for the Metal Lathe: A User Guide: Best, David P.: 9798713564643: Amazon.com: Books
> 
> 
> Introduction to Indexable Tooling for the Metal Lathe: A User Guide [Best, David P.] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. Introduction to Indexable Tooling for the Metal Lathe: A User Guide
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I get 1 audiobook per month, and I just downloaded this:
> 
> View attachment 367514
> 
> 
> Audible does not have very many metalcrafting books (that I have seen). I might start a thread one day on recommendations for welding & machining books on Audible.


I am also a motorcyclist and read that book many years ago, it is great!


----------



## alloy

I didn't pay for it, but drove 108 miles round trip to get it.

It's the tail stock for the 4th on my Fadal.  When I got  the Fadal from my work my ex boss wanted to keep it and see it they could use in on the Okumas.  Well after almost 1-1/2 years I get a text yesterday asking if I wanted it.

The answer was yes.


----------



## NCjeeper

Went flea marketing in the rain. Came home with some goodies.


----------



## NCjeeper




----------



## NCjeeper

So I saw this wooden box sitting out in the rain in front of the vendors tent. The top was open and I saw all the gears in it. I pulled down the top and saw Brown & Sharpe. I caught a chill. I think it is a complete set of gears for a milling machine dividing head. I havent done my research on it yet. If anybody can confirm please comment. It looks complete and there cant be that many survivors like this out there. I obviously dont need it I just wanted to save it.






I have everything drying out now.


----------



## extropic

@NCjeeper 

Are those oil cans empty (assumed you collect them)?


----------



## DAM 79

NCjeeper said:


> So I saw this wooden box sitting out in the rain in front of the vendors tent. The top was open and I saw all the gears in it. I pulled down the top and saw Brown & Sharpe. I caught a chill. I think it is a complete set of gears for a milling machine dividing head. I havent done my research on it yet. If anybody can confirm please comment. It looks complete and there cant be that many survivors like this out there. I obviously dont need it I just wanted to save it.
> View attachment 367605
> 
> View attachment 367606
> 
> View attachment 367607
> 
> I have everything drying out now.


NCJeeper man what kind of flea markets are you going to ?? Cause I need to make a trip out that way one day you run across some neat stuff that’s for sure !!!!


----------



## NCjeeper

extropic said:


> @NCjeeper
> 
> Are those oil cans empty (assumed you collect them)?


Yeah they are empty. Trying to buy cool stuff for the shop office shelf.


----------



## extropic

Great find on the gear set. I think it is for a universal indexer.


----------



## NCjeeper

DAM 79 said:


> NCJeeper man what kind of flea markets are you going to ?? Cause I need to make a trip out that way one day you run across some neat stuff that’s for sure !!!!


It is the Hillsville VA flea market. They have it every Memorial weekend and Labor day weekend. The Labor day one is huge. I did a video of the labor day one. It is on my YouTube channel.


----------



## extropic

Excellent! I have an oldish (20 years?) empty 4oz. Liquid Wrench can that has been too cool to throw away.
I will gladly donate it to a good home in your collection. If you want it, PM me your mailing address.


----------



## NCjeeper

extropic said:


> Great find on the gear set. I think it is for a universal indexer.


That is what I was originally thinking. I am on Vintage Machinery website now. It looks like this set is for the BS-2 universal dividing head. Used to mill spiral flutes.


----------



## Brento

Everyone is spending my money!


----------



## DAM 79

So I did pick this up today in my travels It’s going on my trailer cause I found another good deal that I’ll be getting in a few weeks hopefully and I’m thinking I’ll have to winch it up in the trailer verse loading with a forklift either way it was on sale and was the same price as the other small one that they had there


----------



## darkzero

I envy you guys, I haven't bought anything machining related in a while. There's nothing that I really need. Wait, did I just really say that? Is that even possible? 

I have this problem where I'm addicted to receiving packages & if I know I don't have anything coming I have to order something. Here's my petty little fix. 

I love these scissors, they've been holding up great in the shop/garage. Been wanting to get another pair so I finally did & got me the offset serrated ones too. HD online had a combo sale with free shipping.


----------



## jwmay

Nothing too exciting here. A nailbrush, bolt cutters, knurling tool, m14 tap, a device to make taping packages easier...I think that's all.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Just a random question. Do you think we have a problem, given our buying habits?
Personally, I do not, but if one, who was not into our hobby were to read through this thread, would they think we have a problem?

Which reminds me, I need to order some more tools for my reloading.


----------



## darkzero

Papa Charlie said:


> Do you think we have a problem, given our buying habits?


I've said this before..... "If you know you have a problem, then it's not a problem". So I know, therefore I don't have a problem. At least that's what I keep telling myself.


----------



## BGHansen

I don't have a problem.  My plan is to die before my wife, then she'll have a problem.

Actually, I have shown some restraint as of lately.  I was buying up rolls to bandsaw blade stock to compliment my new to me DoAll 16" ML saw.  I have a couple hundred feet of 1/2" x 14 tpi stock, saw another roll of new Starrett with a starting bid of $0.99.  My existing stock will make up 20 blades, I don't need any more.  I tracked it to the end and did not bid.  Hope the winner at $0.99 (+$15 shipping) frequents this forum.  Congrats on the deal!

Bruce


----------



## devils4ever

I picked up this used Starrett Radius Gage Set on EB. It's complete and has very little wear. Some of the gages are still in their protective wrappings plus it came with the box!


----------



## jwmay

I honestly get annoyed with the buying aspect of the hobby.  But needs must, I suppose.  Alot of times a purchased solution is better than what I could come up with.  My only saving grace is that I cannot stand a crowded shop or garage. So that tempers my one click shopping considerably.  If I have to move something to get to something else, one of those things will be sold or given away shortly.

In other news, it took me two days to find a replacement lathe for the spare I sold on Saturday.


----------



## hman

I don't have a problem, except when I can't find something or if the only stuff I can find is low quality, cheap junk.


----------



## Christianstark

I ordered a 6” iGaging Origin Cal. Could not justify the 3x cost of a MIT.


----------



## macardoso

Got $1236 of precision ER20 collets (only 12 of them lol. Cammenn brand, way overpriced in my opinion) for $15 from HGR. All my CNC mill tool holders are ER20 so it will be nice to have an extra set of nice collets.


----------



## rwm

NCjeeper said:


> View attachment 367602
> 
> 
> I have been to Howe distributing! Bought a Starrett mic there!


Robert


----------



## NCjeeper

^^
Are they still in business? You notice the area code typo? 804 instead of 704.


----------



## rwm

I missed the typo! I am 704. As far as I know they are still open. I believe the owner died and his wife is running it. They have piles of old stock to get rid of. The last time I was there they were letting stuff go for a deep discount. That was several years ago. I really should go back and check it out.
Robert


----------



## Weldingrod1

I think the fact that everyone, their dog, and their mill all contribute things they've bought to this thread makes it -sound- like an excessive amount of buying is going on. It is, however, actually the right amount of buying ;-)

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## NCjeeper

That's cool.


----------



## WobblyHand

Got a small order in from McMaster.  2 x 6-32 spiral point taps (plug and bottoming), 7 more stubby drills to slowly fill my Huot stubby index box (15/32", #16, #21, #25, #28, #43 & #50) and a few dremel fiberglass reinforced cutting wheels.  The junky cutting wheels I had previously would explode under use.  Need to cut some M2 HSS pins.


----------



## Winegrower

Yesterday I got a tooling ball from McMaster Carr.   I am reminded of the line:
“Yesterday I couldn’t even spell tooling ball and today I’m indicating on it”.

Or something like that.


----------



## WobblyHand

This came today as well.  I have a 93A, now a 93B.  Also a 91A and 91B.  The 93's are good to get the taps started.


----------



## westerner

WobblyHand said:


> Got a small order in from McMaster.  2 x 6-32 spiral point taps (plug and bottoming), 7 more stubby drills to slowly fill my Huot stubby index box (15/32", #16, #21, #25, #28, #43 & #50) and a few dremel fiberglass reinforced cutting wheels.  The junky cutting wheels I had previously would explode under use.  Need to cut some M2 HSS pins.


I use the cut-off wheel on my Dremel more than all the other bits/tools combined. 
I can post pics of the wheels I use and recommend in a day or two....


----------



## Bourbon

I'm in the UK,  I had delivered yesterday a 2MT live centre for the tail stock of my Chester Conquest. lathe, More indexable tool tips on the way, A box of tap and drills and a box of dies are also on there way. I am being made redundant at the end of July, So I am buying tooling while I can still afford it. I aim to become a 'Mr Fixit' type and the lathe will help with this.


----------



## mmcmdl

Bourbon said:


> I am being made redundant at the end of July,



Congrats !  Enjoy your time off and equipment .


----------



## Bourbon

mmcmdl said:


> Congrats !  Enjoy your time off and equipment .


I didn't want to go. after 36years. The company got bought out by a Spanish outfit who basically just want to control your life. Very Toxic atmosphere. So I too Voluntary Redundancy as soon as it was offered.


----------



## mmcmdl

I'm in the same boat Bourbon , and ready to take advantage of it .


----------



## 682bear

The brown truck delivered a package yesterday... an ebay purchase...




It's a 7/8" arbor for the horizontal mill... it doesn't look like it has been used much.

Now I have a 7/8", a 1", and a 1-1/4" arbor... hopefully that will cover about anything I'll need to do.

-Bear


----------



## WobblyHand

westerner said:


> I use the cut-off wheel on my Dremel more than all the other bits/tools combined.
> I can post pics of the wheels I use and recommend in a day or two....


That would be great, thanks!


----------



## hman

westerner said:


> I use the cut-off wheel on my Dremel more than all the other bits/tools combined.


They're my favorite Dremel cutter as well!  Just be careful and don't buy the cheap knock-offs.  They're pretty durn weak, and love to shatter.  One tip I saw a Brazilian years ago (I think in a "plastic model maker" type magazine) is to apply super glue to the disks and let it soak in before you use them.  It strengthens 'em somewhat.


----------



## grover

I have a PM940 on order and was needing a vise for that. Amazon had a Tegara (Shars) 690V for $359 +$65 shipping. Those 80 lb. vises I guess they don't ship for free! I went to the Shars website and they had it for $320 + $40 shipping special going on now. Also 10% off first order after you sign up for news letter email.  So $32 off! $328 +tax.

Hardened jaws and vise top rails ,semi hardened screw. 8.9" opening ,thrust bearings and screw is supported by bearing in the rear. Brush wipers on the screw/movable jaw. Almost bought a Kurt for $628 but I think this is pretty dam good for 1/2 the price.

It should cover the 12" Y axis travel pretty well.  Comes with a poly carbonate chip guard that screws/magnets onto movable jaw as a nice extra. Ordered today ....shipped today out of Chicago so I should get it next week. Boring bar next on my list. I'm thinking 3" with the 8 piece 3/4" insert able bar set.


----------



## hman

You'll be happy with the Tegara vise.  I use that same model on my own PM mill.


----------



## grover

hman said:


> You'll be happy with the Tegara vise.  I use that same model on my own PM mill.


Every thing about it in the catalog description sounds good but I'm glad to get a first hand thumbs up on it. How do you lift it on an off your table? Where I worked we had a set of 8" Kurts that we lifted with a jib crane. Either with a magnet or strap through the center chip opening (there were 3 openings, front , back and center). This Tegara only has one opening in the front and it would be canted too far off center. Maybe flat lifting hooks (paddles) that would grab onto those scalloped edges? How do you do it cause I know I'm not lifting it by hand! I have a Harbour Freight lift table that lifts 800 lbs. Don't know off hand how high it lifts. Which mill do you use it on?


----------



## hman

I use it on a PM835-S (knee mill).  I load and unload it from an HF 4 drawer tool cart I use to keep mill tools nearby.  The cart has a ~1 ft wide wooden platform on top (29 1/2" above floor level).  To slide the vise off the mill table I lower the knee so the table is about 1/4" higher than the wood.  To load it back on, l bring the table about 1/4" lower than the wood.

I do plan to get some kind of cart-and-hoist arrangement one of these days.  Lots of things like lathe chucks, mill vise, and rotary table seem to be affected by a gradual increase in the universal gravitational constant as I get older.


----------



## grover

VERY nice setup! Being able to raise and lower the table...great option. Helps to see the vise on your table.

I ran an enclosed CNC VMC and we had a water hose and compresed air and conveyor to deal with chips. How do you deal with chip cleanup in general. How about chip cleanup in "our" vise.  Are you using the keys in the vise?

I looked at every option in 6" vises and that vise is a cut above especially for the price. They have a replacement screw available for $85 and thrust bearings for $25. At work my Kurt vises needed those parts replace every couple of years .I was thinking of getting parts while they are available. That is one shortcoming compared to Kurt. Parts may not be available in the future.


----------



## hman

I buy boxes of 2" chip brushes from Harbor Freight.  An especially nice feature of the vise is that the inside is NOT rough and crusty - pretty easy to clean up.  I've always heard bad things about using compressed air for cleanup - blows chips deep inside the innards of a mill or lathe - so I don't use it.  You can see a chip brush in my photo.  It's hung up on the board to the left of the column.





__





						Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977
					

Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!




					www.harborfreight.com
				




I don't use the keys because the table slots on the PM835S are too narrow for the keys.  I guess I should machine them down one of these days ...

For quick setup, I'll place a 1 1/4" parallel between the back jaw of the vise and the Z ways.  I measured them with a dial test indicator, and the left one is 0.011" further back than the right.  So I stick a 0.011" feeler gauge behind the left side of the parallel.

Comparing my activity level to that of a production machine shop, I suppose I might need a couple vise parts in about 10-20 years.  Won't worry about it until then


----------



## BladesIIB

Got the Tormach 1100MX out of the crates and set up as far as I could for now.  Still waiting on the Path Pilot console and the Automatic Tool Changer then I can finish getting those set up and build the rest of the enclosure.  Getting this past my other machines and into the back of my shop was some work but overall it went very well and fit exactly as I planned for it.  I set up the automatic oiler, the flood coolant, air system and the Skimpy oil skimmer and got the chip pans all installed.  Can't wait to turn it on when the console comes in.


----------



## vtcnc

BladesIIB said:


> Got the Tormach 1100MX out of the crates and set up as far as I could for now. Still waiting on the Path Pilot console and the Automatic Tool Changer then I can finish getting those set up and build the rest of the enclosure. Getting this past my other machines and into the back of my shop was some work but overall it went very well and fit exactly as I planned for it. I set up the automatic oiler, the flood coolant, air system and the Skimpy oil skimmer and got the chip pans all installed. Can't wait to turn it on when the console comes in.



When you say, “fit exactly”, you were very precise with your choice of words!

Curious how you like the Tormach after six months of use. Subscribed!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BladesIIB

vtcnc said:


> When you say, “fit exactly”, you were very precise with your choice of words!
> 
> Curious how you like the Tormach after six months of use. Subscribed!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My space is limited and I did a lot of shuffling and adjusting to find a spot for it, as a machinist you would think inches would be easy to measure for but this did feel like a precision fit to get it in. I hope it is doing everything I expect from it and I feel the same way about it in 6 months!  I will keep you posted.  Thanks for the sub!


----------



## GreatOldOne

Another tool chest. No idea where I’m going to put it, but the history got me. 
	

		
			
		

		
	














						Armstrong Whitworth - Wikipedia
					






					en.wikipedia.org


----------



## Bourbon

Don't worry, you will find somewhere for it. (that's what I tell myself anyway)


----------



## DAM 79

So I took off work today and did a little road trip and this thing jumped up on the trailer and followed me home 
It’s a VanNorman milling machine with universal head it came with a bunch of Arbor supports and I think four different arbors support  for horizontal milling also has a DRO on all three axis and this thing was pretty heavy !!!! But my winch pulled it right up the ramps and on the trailer pretty easily 
If anyone would know what this thing might weigh I would love to know cause there is not much info out there on the internet the model number is 3R-10 or that’s what the plate says


----------



## FOMOGO

Looks pretty similar to my Gorton, maybe slightly smaller, and it runs just under 9000lbs. Mike


----------



## Papa Charlie

DAM 79 said:


> So I took off work today and did a little road trip and this thing jumped up on the trailer and followed me home
> It’s a VanNorman milling machine with universal head it came with a bunch of Arbor supports and I think four different arbors support  for horizontal milling also has a DRO on all three axis and this thing was pretty heavy !!!! But my winch pulled it right up the ramps and on the trailer pretty easily
> If anyone would know what this thing might weigh I would love to know cause there is not much info out there on the internet the model number is 3R-10 or that’s what the plate says


Don't know how accurate this is, but it is the right Model Number. They are claiming the weight is 8,750 lbs.

That looks like a really nice unit. Congrats.






						64'' Table 10HP Spindle Van Norman 3R10 UNIVERSAL MILL (Ref No: 160648) - Machinery Values
					

64'' Table 10HP Spindle Van Norman 3R10 UNIVERSAL MILL




					www.machineryvalues.com


----------



## Braeden P

I’m gonna guess your mill is the one I saw a Craigslist? And it was a steal?


----------



## DAM 79

Braeden P said:


> I’m gonna guess your mill is the one I saw a Craigslist? And it was a steal?


That is a possibility where your location is because I do travel for a good deal !!! And I’m very fortunate to have a way to move this big machine and load and unload them with my forklift


----------



## DAM 79

Papa Charlie said:


> Don't know how accurate this is, but it is the right Model Number. They are claiming the weight is 8,750 lbs.
> 
> That looks like a really nice unit. Congrats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 64'' Table 10HP Spindle Van Norman 3R10 UNIVERSAL MILL (Ref No: 160648) - Machinery Values
> 
> 
> 64'' Table 10HP Spindle Van Norman 3R10 UNIVERSAL MILL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.machineryvalues.com


I have pulled a lot of heavy stuff on my trailer but this mill is definitely the heaviest I could tell it was back there that’s for sure it was all my F-250 wanted that was for sure


----------



## Papa Charlie

DAM 79 said:


> I have pulled a lot of heavy stuff on my trailer but this mill is definitely the heaviest I could tell it was back there that’s for sure it was all my F-250 wanted that was for sure


It looked like you were pushing the limit of that trailer as well. I assume it is either a 7K or 14K GVWR, I hope the latter as the trialer was probably 2500-3500 lb alone. 
As for the truck, it's a Ford, it will handle it.


----------



## DAM 79

Papa Charlie said:


> It looked like you were pushing the limit of that trailer as well. I assume it is either a 7K or 14K GVWR, I hope the latter as the trialer was probably 2500-3500 lb alone.
> As for the truck, it's a Ford, it will handle it.


Lol yes she did handle it it’s a 1996 F-250 with the 7.3 liter power stroke and it has a few upgrades done to it !!! So she has a lot of power just not the fastest truck out there but slow and steady wins the race as they say now the trailer has 7k axles under it it’s rated for 14k maybe a little bit more it pulled it just fine on the flat ground but then hills in P.A. are Brutal !!!!!


----------



## DAM 79

Here’s the rest of the stuff all the horizontal Arbor supports and arbors that I got with it to do some horizontal milling I’m thinking I should be set with all this stuff


----------



## Papa Charlie

DAM 79 said:


> Lol yes she did handle it it’s a 1996 F-250 with the 7.3 liter power stroke and it has a few upgrades done to it !!! So she has a lot of power just not the fastest truck out there but slow and steady wins the race as they say now the trailer has 7k axles under it it’s rated for 14k maybe a little bit more it pulled it just fine on the flat ground but then hills in P.A. are Brutal !!!!!


I have a 2003 F-350 4 Door, 4x4, Dually with the 7.3 liter Power Stroke in it. Looked hard to find this one. I love my truck. As you say, they are not fast and having the duals, I have 4.11 rear end, so it won't win any races. But she will pull just about anything I put behind me.


----------



## Braeden P

DAM 79 said:


> That is a possibility where your location is because I do travel for a good deal !!! And I’m very fortunate to have a way to move this big machine and load and unload them with my forklift


It probably was this one


----------



## Superburban

DAM 79 said:


> So I took off work today and did a little road trip and this thing jumped up on the trailer and followed me home
> It’s a VanNorman milling machine with universal head it came with a bunch of Arbor supports and I think four different arbors support  for horizontal milling also has a DRO on all three axis and this thing was pretty heavy !!!! But my winch pulled it right up the ramps and on the trailer pretty easily
> If anyone would know what this thing might weigh I would love to know cause there is not much info out there on the internet the model number is 3R-10 or that’s what the plate says


Looks like around 7600 lbs.


----------



## Christianstark

Cheap harbor freight run netted me some picks, molding tools like used for clay, a tweezer set, some steel punches, and a bright orange dead blow. Also snagged a Starrett 98-6 off eBay.


----------



## DAM 79

Braeden P said:


> It probably was this one


Lol yup that’s the one


----------



## Dhal22

DAM 79 said:


> So I took off work today and did a little road trip and this thing jumped up on the trailer and followed me home
> It’s a VanNorman milling machine with universal head it came with a bunch of Arbor supports and I think four different arbors support  for horizontal milling also has a DRO on all three axis and this thing was pretty heavy !!!! But my winch pulled it right up the ramps and on the trailer pretty easily
> If anyone would know what this thing might weigh I would love to know cause there is not much info out there on the internet the model number is 3R-10 or that’s what the plate says




If it's that easy,  I'll drive by your house and see if it jumps in my trailer.


----------



## Dhal22

Papa Charlie said:


> I have a 2003 F-350 4 Door, 4x4, Dually with the 7.3 liter Power Stroke in it. Looked hard to find this one. I love my truck. As you say, they are not fast and having the duals, I have 4.11 rear end, so it won't win any races. But she will pull just about anything I put behind me.



I have a 2003 6.0 F350 but ordered it swb.  4 door and 4x4 of course.   Don't know of any 03's with a 7.4.   Mine still purrs along,  still under 275k miles and essentially retired. .


----------



## matthewsx

285k on my 97 F250 HD 7.3L




Oh, and what I bought today....


----------



## Papa Charlie

Dhal22 said:


> I have a 2003 6.0 F350 but ordered it swb.  4 door and 4x4 of course.   Don't know of any 03's with a 7.4.   Mine still purrs along,  still under 275k miles and essentially retired. .


Ya, they only provided the 7.3 for the first quarter of 2003. Then shifted to the 6.0 in the 2Q03.

When I was looking for a new to me truck, I decided I wanted that engine. Knew how good it was. I spend a little over a year finding one that had not been abused or modified. Like with our tools, I had to travel a bit to get this one, but it was well worth it. She had 140K on it when I bought it 6 years ago and no just broke 190K. Rides so comfortably that we take it on long trips over my wife's Yukon.


----------



## DAM 79

Dhal22 said:


> If it's that easy,  I'll drive by your house and see if it jumps in my trailer.


Dhal22 well you never know I have a lot of stuff around here lol


----------



## Christianstark

DHS just showed up with this gem...


----------



## Doug Gray

Going to use it for way oil?


----------



## Aukai

I had to change out the rubber gasket on mine, the auto parts stores have O ring assortments, and I changed to that.


----------



## Janderso

DAM 79 said:


> So I took off work today and did a little road trip and this thing jumped up on the trailer and followed me home
> It’s a VanNorman milling machine with universal head it came with a bunch of Arbor supports and I think four different arbors support  for horizontal milling also has a DRO on all three axis and this thing was pretty heavy !!!! But my winch pulled it right up the ramps and on the trailer pretty easily
> If anyone would know what this thing might weigh I would love to know cause there is not much info out there on the internet the model number is 3R-10 or that’s what the plate says


Apprentice training would be a good thing. At least it wasn't in a heavy use production environment.


----------



## Braeden P

Just got a bison 6 inch 3 jaw with a hardinge taper mount for 200 bucks! Great deal but there goes my money


----------



## Braeden P

Here’s the link to the auction 








						BTC 6 IN.  CHUCK (FITS SHARP AND HLVH TYPE LATHES)
					

Lot 322 at GAUMER TOOL & MACHINE CO. (Retiring) from Quaker City Auctioneers.




					www.bidspotter.com


----------



## NCjeeper

Picked up another cool old photo. A 1899 trade school machine shop.


----------



## Braeden P

Now that’s a nice planer!


----------



## Papa Charlie

NCjeeper said:


> Picked up another cool old photo. A 1899 trade school machine shop.
> View attachment 368673



Also one of the cleanest floors I have ever seen.


----------



## Christianstark

Started out with a set of Grizzly machinist squares. One of them was over a mm out of square when referenced against another, so they were returned. My iGaging set came last night. MUCH better...


----------



## Christianstark

Side note...I am pretty sure everything I have ordered for my new machines causes cancer in California. That place must be dangerous...


----------



## BGHansen

Papa Charlie said:


> Also one of the cleanest floors I have ever seen.


Also no safety glasses, long sleeve shirts and probably a few more "violations".  Yet, they still managed to make our country great.

Bruce


----------



## Janderso

I bought a 5C collet chuck from CDCO a while back. It's not that I haven't been able to make good parts with it, it's the poor fit up of the collets and the cam lock to the spindle.
I bought this 5C collet from Smalltoolsinc.com It's a TMX made in Poland.
I bought the, no machine, D1-6 cam lock as well.
The difference in quality is substantial. It locks up like my Bisons.
Twice the price but much less than the name brand chucks.
I'll try and sell the original I guess. It works fine, I'm just a freak.


----------



## Janderso

matthewsx said:


> 285k on my 97 F250 HD 7.3L
> 
> View attachment 368540
> 
> 
> Oh, and what I bought today....
> View attachment 368541


Details on the lathe please.


----------



## mksj

Aukai, same on mine. I have two of the Reilang oil cans and the flat washers didn't last long and I went to a a heavier O-Ring. I use one for the ball oilers, and the other has cutting oil. Only oil can I found that works in any position, provide high pressure and doesn't leak all over you.


----------



## darkzero

Christianstark said:


> Side note...I am pretty sure everything I have ordered for my new machines causes cancer in California. That place must be dangerous...



It sure is, don't ever come here. Not only cause it's dangerous but because you can't buy any of the good stuff, it's all banned. With all the things I've bought that causes cancer _only_ here in Cali & for so long, I think I may have had cancer like 6 times already but I'm still alive . 

(ok, gott go knock on some wood now)


----------



## Christianstark

I was actually just out there last month on vacation. Gorgeous place. This time I was down south in San Diego, La Jolla area.

Oh, and BTW, not ALL the good stuff is banned!  


darkzero said:


> It sure is, don't ever come here. Not only cause it's dangerous but because you can't buy any of the good stuff, it's all banned. With all the things I've bought that causes cancer _only_ here in Cali & for so long, I think I may have had cancer like 6 times already but I'm still alive .
> 
> (ok, gott go knock on some wood now)


----------



## darkzero

Christianstark said:


> Oh, and BTW, not ALL the good stuff is banned!



Haha, that is true!


----------



## matthewsx

Janderso said:


> Details on the lathe please.


1981 Tida (re-labeled Samson) 12 x 36. Built in Taiwan and seems pretty solid, came with the original inspection sheet and all the goodies, 3 jaw, 4 jaw, faceplate, steady and follow rest, tool holders, etc.






John


----------



## GreatOldOne

duMont broach set.


----------



## Janderso

Janderso said:


> I bought a 5C collet chuck from CDCO a while back. It's not that I haven't been able to make good parts with it, it's the poor fit up of the collets and the cam lock to the spindle.
> I bought this 5C collet from Smalltoolsinc.com It's a TMX made in Poland.
> I bought the, no machine, D1-6 cam lock as well.
> The difference in quality is substantial. It locks up like my Bisons.
> Twice the price but much less than the name brand chucks.
> I'll try and sell the original I guess. It works fine, I'm just a freak.


I mounted the adapter to the chuck after a good inspection and cleaning.
The adapter locks up very nice. The cams are all pretty much within the 4:30 range and lock up smooth with no binding like I had with the Chinese chuck.
The runout with the Chinese 5C chuck (I had to machine the register between the adapter and the chuck) is about .002".
The runout with my new TMX is just over .005" at the 5C taper. I first checked runout at the 3/4" piece of tight tolerance tool steel. >.005"
There is no spec on the Smalltoolsinc. web site.
Have you had any luck trying to clock the D1-6 cams? for better results?
I've read where some guys cut the register .002-.003" loose to allow for adjustment with the 3 bolts.
Any ideas? I have emailed the tool supplier to see what they suggest.
Dang it.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Janderso said:


> I mounted the adapter to the chuck after a good inspection and cleaning.
> The adapter locks up very nice. The cams are all pretty much within the 4:30 range and lock up smooth with no binding like I had with the Chinese chuck.
> The runout with the Chinese 5C chuck (I had to machine the register between the adapter and the chuck) is about .002".
> The runout with my new TMX is just over .005" at the 5C taper. I first checked runout at the 3/4" piece of tight tolerance tool steel. >.005"
> There is no spec on the Smalltoolsinc. web site.
> Have you had any luck trying to clock the D1-6 cams? for better results?
> I've read where some guys cut the register .002-.003" loose to allow for adjustment with the 3 bolts.
> Any ideas? I have emailed the tool supplier to see what they suggest.
> Dang it.



If I remember correctly there are six cams. Try rotating the chuck inserting the chuck into different cam mounting holes and see if it has an affect on the run out. If by clocking the chuck you find a better reading, then mark that alignment.


----------



## Janderso

Papa Charlie said:


> If I remember correctly there are six cams. Try rotating the chuck inserting the chuck into different cam mounting holes and see if it has an affect on the run out. If by clocking the chuck you find a better reading, then mark that alignment.


I haven't indicated the chuck body. If it's the same as the 5C taper then the body has to move on the adapter.
Something ain't right.


----------



## Braeden P

Just picked up the chuck turns out it’s a set tru chuck! 200 bucks was a good deal In my opinion.


----------



## Janderso

Braeden P said:


> Just picked up the chuck turns out it’s a set tru chuck! 200 bucks was a good deal In my opinion.


That is a sweet deal.


----------



## Stonebriar

A new sander.


----------



## hman

Durn!  Very nice looking sander and base ... and a well organized and clean looking shop!  Way too nice a floor to litter up with sanding grit.  I can vaguely see a vacuum dust collection system in your future


----------



## Z2V

Yea, what @hman said. Really nice


----------



## hman

I responded to a Craigslist ad and bought a "new" table saw.  My current saw, a Ryobi BT3000, is still working, and a very nice saw.  But I decided to upgrade to a cast iron table, etc.  The seller was kind enough to help me load (in the Arizona noonday sun and something like 113º).  I plan to put my Ryobi up on Craigslist soon.


----------



## 7milesup

hman said:


> I responded to a Craigslist ad and bought a "new" table saw.  My current saw, a Ryobi BT3000, is still working, and a very nice saw.  But I decided to upgrade to a cast iron table, etc.  The seller was kind enough to help me load (in the Arizona noonday sun and something like 113º).  I plan to put my Ryobi up on Craigslist soon.
> View attachment 369078


Hman...
That is the exact same saw that I have except for the router lift. It has built a lot of furniture along with cabinets and trim for two houses. It has been flawless since I purchased it in 2007.


----------



## erikmannie

Two 8” lengths of 2 1/4” round bar 12L14. $41.91 delivered.


----------



## Tmate

Didn't get this today, but it was my most recent purchase - 6" Kurt vise.


----------



## Firstram

Tmate said:


> Didn't get this today, but it was my most recent purchase - 6" Kurt vise.


The first scratches hurt so much!


----------



## Christianstark

Ok so I decided to bid on some stuff at a local auction. There were 2 things I wanted in the bunch, but they bundled some of the lots during the auction, so I wound up with stuff I didn’t, and hopefully will be able to sell some of it. $605 spent after taxes and fees. Here’s my loot.

Meh. This was bundled in with something I wanted. May clean it up and use it.



Meh. I’ll use some of these but holy overkill!



Drill Dr. 750. I’ll use this.



Adjustable tail stock - Phase II



2 horizontal/vertical 5C collet fixtures. Hopefully able to sell.


----------



## Christianstark

Just the rolling table. Nothing on it.



Angle plate. Hope to sell this probably. Probably too big for my shop.



Ok so I know I’m a tad ridiculous, but this lot was the storage rack, and the contents. Looks like I have some materials to mill and turn.





$605 all in plus whatever I can sell to make some of that back. Fun!


----------



## Tmate

Good Score!


----------



## darkzero

Finally, I got to buy some stuff!  

Found a couple of my favorite Manchester parting tools on ebay. Got 2 new ones for less than the price of one normal price. I already have a spare but these were too cheap to pass up. Plus ya gotta have backups for your backups! 




A few indexable tools for my Holdridge radii cutter. Holdridge offers their own indexables but they're about $100ea. Was surprised & happy to find very similar tools by Mesa Tools (cutter on centerline) for 1/3 the price. 4" length, 2 of them will get shortened to 3" & 2" to match the sizes of the stock cutters. A pack of Kennametal inserts for them too.






Speaking of the Holdridge. I've always wanted one but could never afford one. Like many others I made my own radius/ball turner but mine was very simple & limited in capacity. From CL but it was up north in the Bay area. Luckily my lil brother lived close enough to get it for me. Was so cheap I didn't even bother haggling. $200 & it was only missing the allen keys. I think I posted here when I actually scored it but didn't actually have it in my possession yet. Bought it last year & my brother brought it down to me when they visited for Christmas. I didn't want to risk having it get damaged in shipping so I waited patiently until one of us got to visit each other in person.




15/16" x 6" annular cutter. 15/16" is one of my most favorite/most used size & the smallest size I use for annular cutters. Allows me to still bore to 1" which I used to need to do often. I've already got a 4" length one which is long enough for me but I think this one was cheaper than what I paid for my 4" so I couldn't resist. Paid $35 shipped new. They normally cost $160-$180. Seller's got one more available if anyone is interested.




UVEX face shield from the recent Grainger sale that Splat posted, picked it up at my local Grainger. And a generic bag for it from Amazon.




I've been wanting a smaller oil filter pliers cause my Tekton barely works for my truck. Was at HD & saw a small 9" one by Husky. Then I remembered Channellock made similar ones. Sure enough they make the same exact size which I never knew. Got lucky, perfect timing, found one on Amazon Warehouse. Was brand new condition, just the package was opened.






Lenox "carbide" edge utility blades for my new favorite titanium utility blade knife that I also just got. Also picked me up a pack of Husky blades which are actually made in the USA. I'm never buying the Stanley utility blades again. Last pack I had wouldn't fit 3 different utility blade knives I have. I have to grind down the length for them to fit.






Finally bought me some VCI paper for the first time ever. Pretty cheap on ebay. I used to just save scraps when I came across them. I'm in SoCal so rust is really not a problem but better safe than sorry for my measuring tools that I really care about. But I really bought them to protect my Mitutoyos from getting destroyed by the evil black foam that came in their older cases.


----------



## GreatOldOne

Fed up with my cheap’n’nasty(tm) deburring tools - so blunt you could ride bareback to london on them - I decided to drink the YouTube coolaide and get some Noga ones. Platinum set all the way from the US thanks to Amazon marketplace:


----------



## brino

darkzero said:


> Finally, I got to buy some stuff!



Yeah, I'd call that a "spree"!

-brino


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Not sure but what I paid too much, it's one of those things that is nice and I can use on occasion but don't *NEED* right now. The seller _swears_ it is an ER holder but didn't know the size. So when it gets here (next week?) I'll be filling in the blanks. I have an ER-25 that mounts to MT-3 on the spindle. This allows a through feed for longer work. And *mounts solid* and likely less runout. We shall see. . .


----------



## extropic

@Bi11Hudson 
I don't think that's an ER collet chuck Bill.
Take a look at the "Double Taper" section in the linked info.



			Tools-n-Gizmos Inventory Index - Collets


----------



## Z2V

Will, thanks for the link for the annular cutter. I just grabbed it.


----------



## darkzero

Z2V said:


> Will, thanks for the link for the annular cutter. I just grabbed it.


No problemo Jeff, glad you got it!


----------



## darkzero

extropic said:


> @Bi11Hudson
> I don't think that's an ER collet chuck Bill.
> Take a look at the "Double Taper" section in the linked info.
> 
> 
> 
> Tools-n-Gizmos Inventory Index - Collets



Agreed, definitely not ER collects. Can distinctively identify ER collets cause ER collets have the groove on them to snap into the collet nut & is what realeases the collet when the nut is unscrewed.


----------



## 34by151

Managed to pickup a new (used) bandasw a few days ago. FMB Titan+G.
They are $15K new got it for $600 but had a 1200km round trip to get it.
Needs some work as the downfeed is not working but everything else is good. Have rebuilt the downfeed ram. It just needed some o rings, oil and a missing circlip. The previous owner removed it when it stoped working so next setep is to checkout the electrics for the ram and reconnect the hydraulic motor to enable the automatic raise.
Also rebuilt the pnumatic vice, It was working but put in new seals and orings anyway

Have fixed the counterballance springs. They put some spring on it that looks like it came from a garrage door. It's meant to connect under the ram and the one thay added changes tension as you rotate the cutting head.

One I get eveything working correctly I'll sttip it down, clean it up and powdercoat it, assemble and put in new wiring
Will look brand new once the refub is finished

Im uessing it will owe me a $2K once the refurm is completed. Not a bad deal all in all

Here is a link to the saw
https://www.fmb.it/en/scheda_manuale?id=85​


----------



## jimbo fury

I bought a new welder today. Be here in 4 weeks


----------



## hman

Quite the welder!  I know Esab's a good name.  Let us know how you like it, once it's delivered.


----------



## Papa Charlie

34by151 said:


> Managed to pickup a new (used) bandasw a few days ago. FMB Titan+G.
> They are $15K new got it for $600 but had a 1200km round trip to get it.
> Needs some work as the downfeed is not working but everything else is good. Have rebuilt the downfeed ram. It just needed some o rings, oil and a missing circlip. The previous owner removed it when it stoped working so next setep is to checkout the electrics for the ram and reconnect the hydraulic motor to enable the automatic raise.
> Also rebuilt the pnumatic vice, It was working but put in new seals and orings anyway
> 
> Have fixed the counterballance springs. They put some spring on it that looks like it came from a garrage door. It's meant to connect under the ram and the one thay added changes tension as you rotate the cutting head.
> 
> One I get eveything working correctly I'll sttip it down, clean it up and powdercoat it, assemble and put in new wiring
> Will look brand new once the refub is finished
> 
> Im uessing it will owe me a $2K once the refurm is completed. Not a bad deal all in all
> 
> Here is a link to the saw
> https://www.fmb.it/en/scheda_manuale?id=85​
> View attachment 369391


Nice, good find.


----------



## Papa Charlie

jimbo fury said:


> I bought a new welder today. Be here in 4 weeks
> View attachment 369392


Which model di you end up getting? Would also like to hear your evaluation of it once you have had a chance to play with it.


----------



## Christianstark

Looks like the 205ic. Look forward to impressions. When I bought my welder I wend with a Miller Multi 215. Wont do aluminum without a spool gun, so I will need a dedicated TIG if I ever need to. Would have loved to have gotten an AC/DC Multiprocess, but they were about $1000 or so more at the time.



Papa Charlie said:


> Which model di you end up getting? Would also like to hear your evaluation of it once you have had a chance to play with it.


----------



## Cheeseking

Awesome. I’m looking at that same one. 
My Miller Maxstar 150 works well for what I mostly do but not having AC or HF sometimes hurts. The MIG part is interesting I’d be curious how it performs vs a dedicated one If its fiddly etc. 
let us know !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Christianstark

So I got my auction loot home. I MAY have bitten off way more than I can chew, AND I also MAY have hit the motherlode. Its a mix of aircraft grade 6061and 7075 aluminum round bar, square bar, and rectangle bar ranging from an inch thick to 4.75". Also 12' of aircraft grade 4340 2.5" thick steel.


----------



## Cheeseking

Wow. That’s a whole lot of stock you got there. To purchase that at today’s (even pre world gone mad) prices $$$ 
Guess it depends what it cost all in to your house. And if you will have use for it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Christianstark

$690 including help loading and filling a friends truck up with gas.


Cheeseking said:


> Wow. That’s a whole lot of stock you got there. To purchase that at today’s (even pre world gone mad) prices $$$
> Guess it depends what it cost all in to your house. And if you will have use for it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jimbo fury

Christianstark said:


> Looks like the 205ic. Look forward to impressions. When I bought my welder I wend with a Miller Multi 215. Wont do aluminum without a spool gun, so I will need a dedicated TIG if I ever need to. Would have loved to have gotten an AC/DC Multiprocess, but they were about $1000 or so more at the time.


It's the Rebel 205ic


----------



## Brento

I bought a set of Everede 3/8 boring bars with 12 inserts looks to be in good shape.


----------



## GreatOldOne

My new compressor turned up. 


No, it’s not silent. But at 60db, it’s damn quiet. Much more than my old Stanley branded upright I had. It came with a hearing warning as it’s rated at 99db. I built an enclosure for it to try and quieten it down, but it was still loud enough to make me jump when it’s suddenly kicked on. This takes up less room (no big bulky box with sound dampening foam to deal with) so I’ve gained some space 

the old compressor has been relegated to become an auxiliary receiver for my garage compressor. It’ll double my capacity, and make running the hydraulic press a bit easier.


----------



## jrkorman

Well nothing spectacular. Was at one of the local antique shops and found this Enco dial caliper at a good price. After some clean up I've found it's quite accurate across the ranges I've checked so far and repeats very well also. Only problem is that one of the screws holding the bracket on the end is missing. Does anyone know what size these are? Thanks in advance.


----------



## 682bear

Ok, yeah, I know I'm on vacation, but...

I found this at a yard sale in Cedaredge Colorado...







... for $5...! And it works! Lol...

I've never seen one like this... any ideas how old it may be?

-Bear


----------



## francist

Found one reference on Worthpoint that said circa 1975 which I think might be pretty believable.


----------



## Aaron_W

A friend of mine got a Dremel for his birthday 7th or 8th grade (1980-ish). I think it was similar to that one, but you know 40 years ago so...


----------



## Aaron_W

Finally bit the bullet and upgraded my welding helmet to a Lincoln 3350. Huge improvement in vision, hope my Miller welder will forgive me.


----------



## John O

682bear said:


> Ok, yeah, I know I'm on vacation, but...
> 
> I found this at a yard sale in Cedaredge Colorado...
> 
> View attachment 369600
> 
> 
> View attachment 369601
> 
> 
> ... for $5...! And it works! Lol...
> 
> I've never seen one like this... any ideas how old it may be?
> 
> -Bear







__





						Dremel Manufacturing Co. - Publication Reprints - 1977 Dremel 380 Moto-Tool Including Stationary Accessories | VintageMachinery.org
					





					www.vintagemachinery.org
				





682bear said:


> Ok, yeah, I know I'm on vacation, but...
> 
> I found this at a yard sale in Cedaredge Colorado...
> 
> View attachment 369600
> 
> 
> View attachment 369601
> 
> 
> ... for $5...! And it works! Lol...
> 
> I've never seen one like this... any ideas how old it may be?
> 
> -Bear


about 1977 link has manual   http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=20650


----------



## NCjeeper

Aaron_W said:


> Finally bit the bullet and upgraded my welding helmet to a Lincoln 3350. Huge improvement in vision, hope my Miller welder will forgive me.


I love mine.


----------



## Logan 400

I wasn't looking for anything in particular. Just out with my wife looking at some estate sales. This is what I bought at one place all for $39.00.


----------



## BGHansen

Few eBay and local shop pick ups.  First was a Palmgren 4" vise.  My drill press is up to at least 6 vises now, but for $10 at the Goodwill store I couldn't pass it up.




I sold my Craftsman 12" wood-cutting bandsaw to a buddy at work which included a large selection of blades.  I've been picking up bulk blade stock to replace the various widths/tpi for my DoAll.  This is the last (for now . . .) coil needed to cover what I had for the wood saw.  This was most of a 100' coil of 1/8" x 18 blade stock.



Some new (4) and used Nicholson files off eBay.



Digital tachometer for a speed indicator for my DoAll saw




Trying out some 1/4" 4-flute carbide endmills with 0.020" radii on the corners.  These are supposed to wear better, time will tell as I have no experience using this style.






Probably a frivolous purchase, but grabbed a LH drill chuck for my Drill Doctor 750X.  I have a 1/16" - 1/2" set of LH drills that are pretty dusty, but now I can give my aging eyes a break.


----------



## francist

BGHansen said:


> These are supposed to wear better, time will tell as I have no experience using this style.


I think you will find they last quite a bit longer. I’ve taken to grinding a small chamfer on the tips of HSS end mills after the initial sharpness has faded. Not only does it give a second kick to the dying cutter, but they seem to go on forever with the chamfer on the corners.

edit: having written that I’m recalling your drawers and drawers full of cutters so prolonging the life of one seems almost ludicrous


----------



## jwmay

Yesterday I went to an estate auction where sat a forlorn looking Southbend heavy 10 on a stand.  Not a single handwheel wasn't stuck, no lever moved either. The sliding gear wouldn't slide, it had no belts, no chuck, the motor cap was hanging, and the apron had been brazed.  In short, I knew I wasn't ready to give the next two years of Sundays to this machine.  So we left, and I spent the better part of the morning reassuring myself that I made the right decision.  I decided to figure out why I was even looking for another lathe. I decided it was because mine is a change gear, and I want a threading gearbox.  So I bought that instead.  Wish me luck!


----------



## middle.road

Father's Day! (whoopie...)

Honey got me some shop organizers at the local discount outlet.
------


Spoiler: Click HERE for a laugh...



Check out the expiration date.
She's leaving it up to me clean them out. 



She also scored full length black leather maxi-skirt at an estate sale. The leather is heavy like a set of motorcycle chaps, but rough.
I've asked her to be on the lookout for old leather belts to use in the shop for polishing, piece part holding in a vise, stropping, etc.
She certainly filled that request. I might just line the drawers in my 'resto' Kennedy with it.


----------



## Janderso

NCjeeper said:


> I love mine.


I Keep hearing good things about that hood.I have the Miller digital elite, any idea if the Lincoln provides an advantage with regard to clarity or the ability to see better?
I have the mag. cheaters and still struggle.


----------



## BGHansen

francist said:


> I think you will find they last quite a bit longer. I’ve taken to grinding a small chamfer on the tips of HSS end mills after the initial sharpness has faded. Not only does it give a second kick to the dying cutter, but they seem to go on forever with the chamfer on the corners.
> 
> edit: having written that I’m recalling your drawers and drawers full of cutters so prolonging the life of one seems almost ludicrous


Hi Frank,

Is this what you're referring to?     This is most of my end mills.  I have a coffee can of dull ones setting at my Milwaukee surface grinder with "good intentions" of sharpening them at some point.  Also have a decent selection of radius and conical ones I didn't show.  I have one of those $45 5-C collet grinding fixtures for sharpening the ends.  Probably be a retirement project, but will watch a couple YouTube videos and see if I can extend their life some.

Bruce

1/8" - 3/8" new end mill storage



3/8" - 3/4" new end mill storage



3/4" - 1" new end mill storage.  Also extra Niagra's at the back that won't fit in the drawers above.  Some other miscellanea too.



HSS end mills that have been used.  All of the ones above are new.  Once they've cut metal, I move them to this drawer.  Once these dull, they head to the coffee can at the surface grinder.



Used carbide end mills (and other miscellanea).  Same story as above, as soon as they're used, they go in this drawer.


----------



## NCjeeper

Janderso said:


> any idea if the Lincoln provides an advantage with regard to clarity or the ability to see better?


To me it seems to. I was using a Hobart hood.


----------



## FOMOGO

Just got word this morning that my offer on a Niles engine lathe has been excepted. It appears to be 1920's vintage, around 24" swing, 10' between centers, 16' overall length, guessing 10k lbs or better. Ways seem to be in exeptional condition for it's age. Has a ton of accessories, and tooling with it. Will be moving it over the next few weeks. Pics to follow. Cheers, Mike


----------



## GreatOldOne

GreatOldOne said:


> Another tool chest. No idea where I’m going to put it, but the history got me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 368447
> View attachment 368448
> View attachment 368449
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Armstrong Whitworth - Wikipedia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> en.wikipedia.org





Bourbon said:


> Don't worry, you will find somewhere for it. (that's what I tell myself anyway)


Turns out you where right… I did find a place.   Cleaned up nice - I just have it a clean with some oil soap and have it a buff up. Oh and changed the draw pulls as some where broken. I’ve kept the intact ones for use in some other project down the road.


----------



## PorkBarrel

A real fine Fein Mag Drill have been wanting for years. Now we can put holes in the welding table for clamps.


----------



## pineyfolks

I collect and use a lot of old tools. I picked up an Armstrong cut off tool for my16" South bend lathe. It was the only took holder I didn't have for it.


----------



## Janderso

I couldn't help myself.
Delivered for $219.
The reviews are great. I watched the Bundy Bears video on tearing it down, clean and oil etc.
In fact, I got a decline notice on my credit card as they questioned the purchase. I went back in and bought it again.
Now I have two coming.
Anybody near the Sacramento area that needs a B&S 0 knock off? I'll sell it to you for $219.
If I return it I have to pay shipping.








						BS-0 INDEXING DIVIDING HEAD SET W 5" CHUCK & TAILSTOCK FOR CNC MILLING MACHINE 800995744701 | eBay
					

This is our semi-universal dividing head, one of machine tool accessories for dividing workpieces into equal partitions. It can be used for direct and indirect dividing. The 24 quick-dividing holes can complete 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12, 24 division indexing.



					www.ebay.com


----------



## Gaffer

Janderso said:


> I couldn't help myself.
> Delivered for $219.
> The reviews are great. I watched the Bundy Bears video on tearing it down, clean and oil etc.
> In fact, I got a decline notice on my credit card as they questioned the purchase. I went back in and bought it again.
> Now I have two coming.
> Anybody near the Sacramento area that needs a B&S 0 knock off? I'll sell it to you for $219.
> If I return it I have to pay shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BS-0 INDEXING DIVIDING HEAD SET W 5" CHUCK & TAILSTOCK FOR CNC MILLING MACHINE 800995744701 | eBay
> 
> 
> This is our semi-universal dividing head, one of machine tool accessories for dividing workpieces into equal partitions. It can be used for direct and indirect dividing. The 24 quick-dividing holes can complete 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12, 24 division indexing.
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com


Bummer. Can you maybe talk them down to the Buy 2 price?


----------



## Janderso

Gaffer said:


> Bummer. Can you maybe talk them down to the Buy 2 price?


Gaffer,
Where's Highland?
Probably a short trip to Chico


----------



## Gaffer

I wish. I'm about an hour east of LA in San Bernardino County.


----------



## WobblyHand

These dividing heads are pretty darned good for the money.  That is if it wasn't mishandled along the way.  The carrier dropped mine and it caused an internal bearing casting housing to break, which was not visible externally.  (I finally was able to return mine and get a full refund.)  

I used Bundy Bear's video to do the teardown.  I recommend you do a teardown.  Not because you will find damage, but so you can clean it all out. There's lots and lots of grinding dust and crud inside.  That and a stoning of the engraved numbers on the side (so you don't tear your hands on the sharp edges) and you will find the unit to be very nice.  Amazing for the price.


----------



## extropic

@Janderso 
Assuming they are sent in separate packages, can't you refuse delivery of the unopened package and have the carrier return to sender (no cost to you)?
Contact the credit card company and explain the error. They should reverse the transaction if the seller is uncooperative.


----------



## Janderso

WobblyHand said:


> There's lots and lots of grinding dust and crud inside. That and a stoning of the engraved numbers on the side (so you don't tear your hands on the sharp edges) and you will find the unit to be very nice. Amazing for the price.


I was shocked when I saw how much grit and dirt was in the base of the casting on that video. I know none of us could assemble one of these with all the smudge all over!!
Other than that and a few rough machining components the tool looks like a heck of a deal. I'm not expecting great accuracy out of that 3 jaw.


----------



## FOMOGO

I bought one of those a year or so ago, and I've been running the 5" chuck on my Atlas lathe (same 1 1/2"x8 mounting). Amazingly, run-out is under .001. Mike 



Janderso said:


> I was shocked when I saw how much grit and dirt was in the base of the casting on that video. I know none of us could assemble one of these with all the smudge all over!!
> Other than that and a few rough machining components the tool looks like a heck of a deal. I'm not expecting great accuracy out of that 3 jaw.


----------



## WobblyHand

I was going to say the runout is pretty good on mine.  After my eBay BS-0 experience, I got a BS-0 from PM.  When I was setting it up on the mill, I was surprised at the runout.  Around 0.001 if I recall.  If you get a good BS-0, they are an incredible value.


----------



## Janderso

WobblyHand said:


> If you get a good BS-0, they are an incredible value.


Is that a luck thing? Or are there preferred vendors?
My assumption as with most of the Chinese tools is they come from the same production facility.
That's my opinion alone.


----------



## WobblyHand

I think they come from the same factory.  My internal box had identical markings.  The packing foam was entirely different and much better on the PM unit. The PM unit came with a better printed manual, the cheapo had a 10th generation xerox manual.   There were subtle mechanical differences between them, handles, but nothing of consequence.  I think, and honestly have nothing to support this, that some of cheap, cheap units may be factory seconds.  

The engraving literally was sharp as in cut your hand sharp on the cheaper one.  But that's fixable in a minute with a stone.  However, as I mentioned, the packing foam was much much tighter surrounding the dividing head for the PM unit.  The PM unit was double boxed as well.  My eBay unit was dropped, by someone, likely because the packing didn't fully restrain the 50lbs of iron in the box.   

I doubt there are preferred vendors for the BS-0, unless you can actually find the factory.  If your unit was not mishandled or dropped along the way, it is likely very serviceable and a tremendous deal. I was unlucky on that eBay deal, that's all.  Since that time, I've spent plenty on eBay purchases, so it hasn't soured me on eBay at all.


----------



## Aaron_W

Janderso said:


> Is that a luck thing? Or are there preferred vendors?
> My assumption as with most of the Chinese tools is they come from the same production facility.
> That's my opinion alone.



I think vendor matters. Not that the item is different but it seems some vendors just chuck it into a box and off it goes. I am assuming some vendors like Little Machine Shop and PM do their own quality control inspections before sending it on to a customer as well as doing a better job packing. 

Both of these vendors will occasionally list scratch and dent items. Maybe returns but I suspect these are items that they receive that then fail their internal inspections. If they are not doing their own inspections then they must have great luck, because I've yet to receive an item from either that I took issue with.

PM sent my BS-0 well packed in a stout outer carton. Wobblyhand got his first one from an Ebay seller who shipped it in the retail carton, which offered little protection, and not surprisingly it arrived with the carton in tatters with damage to the dividing head.


----------



## NCjeeper

I picked this up to keep in the barn. Going to use it to inflate tires and blowing things off. The reviews have been really good on this brand.


----------



## BGHansen

Nothing to show from eBay for a change!  First is a Fulton miter gauge that my better half got me for a Father's Day present.  This was for the DoAll band saw but might get used on the table saw too.  I think this ran around $80.









I have a buddy at work who picked up some stuff from a closing shop years ago.  I told him I had a blade welder on the DoAll, so he dumped this pile of blades in our Traverse.  He has a 16" wood cutting saw that uses 118" blades which is right in my wheelhouse also.  These'll get cut to length and welded, then a 50/50 split.




At the same sale he picked up this Noga coolant mister.  I've got one of those $12 units off eBay, but this Noga will be my go to.  The air/coolant hoses are FAR superior to the PVC tubing on the cheap eBay units.  Plus this has genuine 1/4" LOC line hose for the outlets which matches what I use on the Tormach.

Bruce


----------



## BWSmith

Got an Ebay,long nose 3MT live center in today. Can't believe I've gone all these years with a std length version. 

Been shopping for a 4", 4 jaw chuck to mount on a Yuasa 5C indexer. I got the backing plate last week..... just being patient,hopefully find something nice(vs lowend Chinese).


----------



## GreatOldOne

NCjeeper said:


> View attachment 369894
> 
> I picked this up to keep in the barn. Going to use it to inflate tires and blowing things off. The reviews have been really good on this brand.


Looks almost exactly like my Hyundai branded one. I’ve only had it a week, but it’s soooo nice being able to run a compressor in my tiny shop and not have my ears bleed.


----------



## davidpbest

Just received this - serial #4.




This is how it looks on my 3J.




This is very nicely designed and made - $100 promotional pricing you can find it _*here*_.  No affiliation.  The maker (Bruce) discusses it *here* (skip to 4:45 in the timeline). Fits 3-jaw chucks with jaws that are 1.10" wide or smaller.


----------



## Tipton1965

I bought a bunch of plywood for a garage I'm building for a customer.  Pics on request!!


----------



## Eyerelief

Janderso said:


> I couldn't help myself.
> Delivered for $219.
> The reviews are great. I watched the Bundy Bears video on tearing it down, clean and oil etc.
> In fact, I got a decline notice on my credit card as they questioned the purchase. I went back in and bought it again.
> Now I have two coming.
> Anybody near the Sacramento area that needs a B&S 0 knock off? I'll sell it to you for $219.
> If I return it I have to pay shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BS-0 INDEXING DIVIDING HEAD SET W 5" CHUCK & TAILSTOCK FOR CNC MILLING MACHINE 800995744701 | eBay
> 
> 
> This is our semi-universal dividing head, one of machine tool accessories for dividing workpieces into equal partitions. It can be used for direct and indirect dividing. The 24 quick-dividing holes can complete 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12, 24 division indexing.
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com


I purchased one of these a year ago. Did the same tear down. It is a nice piece. Once all the grit came out and I added / made the new parts it became as smooth as I could ask it to be.


----------



## Janderso

BWSmith said:


> Got an Ebay,long nose 3MT live center in today. Can't believe I've gone all these years with a std length version.
> 
> Been shopping for a 4", 4 jaw chuck to mount on a Yuasa 5C indexer. I got the backing plate last week..... just being patient,hopefully find something nice(vs lowend Chinese).


Like this?








						5C MOUNT 4" 4-JAW INDEPENDENT LATHE CHUCK (3900-4713) 769053081823 | eBay
					

5C Mount 4" 4-Jaw Independent Lahte Chuck. Quick set up in fixtures and 5C spindles. 5C adapter with standard internal and external threads. Hole through chuck is 0.950". Supplied with chuck wrench.



					www.ebay.com


----------



## BWSmith

That's one way Janderso,and I considered it. The outside of the Yuasa spindle is threaded,so a 4" backing plate was threaded to go on it.


----------



## rwm

TMX 3 jaw front mount for my mill/rotary table.
Robert


----------



## Badabinski

Bought one of those insert shell mills from Shrum Solutions that are designed for low-horsepower machines. Holy crap, am I impressed! I didn't actually get a picture of the shell mill, but here's a photo of the finish it left in some A2 tool steel:



I'm super happy with it. I was taking .015" DOC passes, spinning at ~600 RPM.

EDIT: I think I need to tram my mill in again, but even with that, this is one of the best finishes I've ever gotten straight off of the mill.


----------



## devils4ever

I bought my second HF 6" digital caliper. My first was about 1-2 years old and was nearing it end-of-life. It was getting harder and harder to move. Plus, I was using the jaws ends (tips?) to scribe on my parts, but they were getting dull. I consider it a disposable tool and so I bought my second. I have no regrets and so I'm on my second one. I also just bought a Shars 6" digital caliper and will use it more carefully and when I need a more accurate measurement (no scribing with this one!).

As a test, I measured a 1-2-3 block with both. The Shars was spot on. The HF was off about 0.0015" on the 3" side. Not bad for under $20. Surprisingly, the checkout clerk tried to sell me an extended warranty for $8.50! It's a $20 tool!


----------



## JRaut

I got this slick new (to me) Lenz LKD II taper boring head. If you've seen a Tree taper boring head, this is like one of those on steroids.

It can be used (1) as a regular boring head; (2) as a facing head (like the Wohlhaupter); or (3) to taper-bore either an inside or outside cone.

And unlike the Tree, it's pretty well balanced, so it doesn't cause an earthquake above 500 RPM.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

wow, that is wild! never seen anything like that before. Makes my head hurt just trying to think how it works.

Devils4ever - iGaging digital calipers are really nice. I've had mine 5 or 6 years and it still repeats very closely. I'll be buying another when this one bites the dust or gets relegated to drill press DRO duty.


----------



## BladesIIB

Finally finished setting up my new Tormach 1100MX.  Took me about a month but really only about 23 hours total based on my video files. I had a couple of other customer projects to complete, and getting my oldest off to college so a new student orientation day, and that yard work is really cutting into my fun time!

This video shows the full installation and set up of the Automatic Tool Changer (ATC), the initial boot up of PathPilot and watching me like a 2 year old with a typewriter trying to figure out how to run it.  I also show the full build out of the enclosure.  Even in high speed it takes a few minutes to build that out and I narrated over top to hit the highlights and challenges of getting this all together.  

Overall assembly went well and this weekend I will be trying to create and send my first program to make some chips!


----------



## Scruffy

Bought these the other day. The wooden boxes look bad.  Their height gauges, I think I did alright. 61.00 for 3 all in original parking


----------



## NCjeeper

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Devils4ever - iGaging digital calipers are really nice. I've had mine 5 or 6 years and it still repeats very closely. I'll be buying another when this one bites the dust or gets relegated to drill press DRO duty.


I have Igaging digital calipers also. Use them all the time. Great caliper for the price.


----------



## FOMOGO

Update on the Niles lathe project. Started disassembling it on site yesterday, will be going back tomorrow to load up all the components, and will be loading the main section latter in the week. Ordered a 7.5hp inverter duty 3 phase motor for it today, which will be mounted overhead using the original line shaft pulleys that came with the lathe. Found them in the boxes of tooling that were included. Thinking this will be my last lathe purchase, but we all know how that song goes. Cheers, Mike


----------



## projectnut

Bought another Diamond wheel for the surface grinder today.  This one is a 200 grit.  I bought a similar wheel from the same vendor a couple years ago .  The first one was a 320 grit.  These will be used in attempts to sharpen carbide end mills and drills. 

About the same time I bought the first diamond wheel I also purchased a CBN wheel from this vendor.  Should I ever get time in the shop again sharpening end mills is high on the list of things to do.  This summer so far has been the time for "yard work" only.  I still have a few trees to remove, some grass to plant, and a couple yards of mulch left to spread.  All this has to be sandwiched in between mowing the lawn every 4 days and building repairs.  The last week or so has been spent realigning and securing vinyl siding that has come loose over the years.  In 2 weeks we have a contractor coming to replace the pedestrian door and the trim around the single and double overhead doors. 

This coming week I head to Mayo clinic in Rochester to see about repairs on both shoulders.  Years ago someone told me "getting old isn't for sissies."  At the time I thought it was a joke.  It doesn't sound all that funny at the moment.  Hopefully they can fix the problems, and the wife won't continue to be deluged by my 4 letter word vocabulary every time I make a wrong move.  If that fails there's always AT (Alcohol Therapy).  It might not be as sophisticated as procedures performed by medical professionals, but if you take therapy sessions often enough you don't care.






https://www.hobby-machinist.com/javascript:;
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/javascript:;
Diamond Surface Grinding Wheel 7" Dia 1/4" Wide 75 Hardness D200 grit


----------



## mattthemuppet2

FOMOGO said:


> Update on the Niles lathe project. Started disassembling it on site yesterday, will be going back tomorrow to load up all the components, and will be loading the main section latter in the week. Ordered a 7.5hp inverter duty 3 phase motor for it today, which will be mounted overhead using the original line shaft pulleys that came with the lathe. Found them in the boxes of tooling that were included. Thinking this will be my last lathe purchase, but we all know how that song goes. Cheers, Mike
> 
> View attachment 370252


wowzers, that's a lot of lathe! You know, if you don't have one already, an HLV-H would make a very nice companion for that lathe


----------



## Nogoingback

FOMOGO said:


> Update on the Niles lathe project. Started disassembling it on site yesterday, will be going back tomorrow to load up all the components, and will be loading the main section latter in the week. Ordered a 7.5hp inverter duty 3 phase motor for it today, which will be mounted overhead using the original line shaft pulleys that came with the lathe. Found them in the boxes of tooling that were included. Thinking this will be my last lathe purchase, but we all know how that song goes. Cheers, Mike
> 
> View attachment 370252


That thing is probably longer than my car!  Nice.


----------



## brino

FOMOGO said:


> Update on the Niles lathe project.



Crap that's a lot of lathe.
I've slept on beds smaller that that!
-brino


----------



## brino

projectnut said:


> If that fails there's always AT (Alcohol Therapy). It might not be as sophisticated as procedures performed by medical professionals, but if you take therapy sessions often enough you don't care.



It's good that the shoulders aren't too bad for AT.  

I hope your appointment goes well!
-brino


----------



## hman

@projectnut - Best wishes for a painless and effective shoulder "overhaul."


----------



## Janderso

I scored a Beverly shear.
I think this new addition will come in handy!

I was wondering If I could use my surface grinder to sharpen these. It looks like the bottom blade is easily adjustable. In fact they want you to adjust them for the material you are cutting.
I ran this through the parts washer, next step is to finish removing the rust, paint, sharpen the blades, mount it and go to work.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by my local tool/ flea market, i've not been there in more than a month. First thing i found and bought was this depth gauge, in good shape 3,2$. Then i come across this floor jack for cars it was a decent deal at 25$ so i bought it. At the same place i also bought 3 pairs of wire cutter, they wore 1$ a piece, map gas for 6$ and test light for 1$. Then i did lots of walking but didn't found any machinist tools, just as i was leaving i spotted couple of old belt pulleys, the blue one is for a compressor head that i need but he wanted too much money for it so i had negotiate a price for all of them, at the end i bought all three for less then he was asking for the first one. Not a bad trip, that floor jack should be a good addition for the big garage.


----------



## Gaffer

GoceKU said:


> Today i stopped by my local tool/ flea market, i've not been there in more than a month. First thing i found and bought was this depth gauge, in good shape 3,2$. Then i come across this floor jack for cars it was a decent deal at 25$ so i bought it. At the same place i also bought 3 pairs of wire cutter, they wore 1$ a piece, map gas for 6$ and test light for 1$. Then i did lots of walking but didn't found any machinist tools, just as i was leaving i spotted couple of old belt pulleys, the blue one is for a compressor head that i need but he wanted too much money for it so i had negotiate a price for all of them, at the end i bought all three for less then he was asking for the first one. Not a bad trip, that floor jack should be a good addition for the big garage.
> View attachment 370417
> View attachment 370416
> View attachment 370419
> View attachment 370418
> View attachment 370422
> View attachment 370421
> View attachment 370420


Way to negotiate that deal!


----------



## jwmelvin

I got a a 4x3, grade A surface plate (tagged with 0.000115” from the last calibration) from an estate. A project to move (had to go through a door on edge, but it’s happily in my shop now.


----------



## Larry$

jwmelvin said:


> 4x3, grade A surface plate


Makes my back hurt. Nice find.


----------



## Dhal22

Wow,  a big one.


----------



## BWSmith

Freaky(to me) story;

This past Saturday,I pm a guy on the OWWM site about a 5C fixture. It's missing a cpl things that I may need help with? See pic below.

OK,he PM's back at 3:30 Saturday afternoon. Gives me the total cost from Santa Monica Ca. I respond back that evening on how he'd like payment. A personal check will work,and BTW,it's been shipped,here's your tracking #.

Go to the P.O. at 9:30 this morning to mail the check...... and the postmaster hands me the pkg. We live in the mnts of Virginia. That's just durn freaky in my book.


----------



## BWSmith

Oops,forgot the pic.

It's missing a handle? Or something going in the side. Is this an ejector for the collet?


----------



## Christianstark

Looks like it is missing the handle, and the eccentric locking mechanism. I have 2 Shars ones I just cleaned up, but this looks to be better quality than the Shars...


----------



## pineyfolks

BWSmith said:


> Oops,forgot the pic.
> 
> It's missing a handle? Or something going in the side. Is this an ejector for the collet?
> 
> View attachment 370522


If you can't find or make the parts you need for it you still have a good angle plate out of the deal.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

traded this


for these


for a chuck that I'm picking up on Wednesday. New and unused - they were taken off and replaced with custom soft jaws for a piece of semi-conductor equipment. Previous owner was happy and I'm VERY happy, swapped something that I didn't need for something that I do


----------



## Christianstark

A few things I got with my auction scrap grab bag. Not totally sure what they are, so I will ask here.

First - The large threads on this fit inside a 5C collet. I am assuming this would be some kind of tightening assembly.




Next is this one, and I have NO idea what it is...


----------



## Steve-F

The first one is a collet"stop" to control repeated positions of multiple parts, the other, not sure:<)


----------



## GreatOldOne

A Jacobs 16n superchuck. It’s currently in bits in a degreasant bath as two trips through the ultrasonic cleaner didnt get the really stubborn grease off it. It was like black tar in there. After pics once it’s clean and reassembled.


1/4 bsp taps - needed for some custom air manifolds I want to make.


knipex adjustable wrench / parallel pliers - these things are amazing. So much better than regular slip wrenches - it keeps the jaws parallel to each other no matter how wide or narrow they are, so they never mar the surface of the item being wrenched upon.


----------



## GreatOldOne

All clean, and mounted on an arbor. It appears to be a later model one, as the balls where captured in a plastic race. Still, not complaining for the price, the jaws where mint and there’s no run discernible runout. Whoop!


----------



## DAM 79

So I got this off eBay it’s a start for my VanNorman mill that takes nmbt 50 tooling 1/2” end mill holder it was cheap and runs true


----------



## bfk

Incomplete set of gage blocks. Box is Brown & Sharpe. So are about 1/2 the blocks. The rest are a mix of Dearborn Gage and DoAll. $30.
They could use a cleaning. 

A Brown & Sharpe vernier height gauge. Looks like it’s never been used. $50

Last but not least, a Mitutoyo metric caliper gauge. Range from 20-32mm. Not something I’m likely to use every day, but for $35 I couldn’t resist.


----------



## hman

Nice haul!  Now the question is, how do you safely clean gaige blocks???


----------



## Aaron_W

This followed me home last night. Its siren like song has been calling to me for several weeks on that demon spawned site of Craig's and my willpower finally gave out. Complete and appears to function as it should, the seller just doesn't use it anymore and is trying to make some room in the garage. Unknown if the coolant pump works since he always cut dry. 
I can't find anything to date the saw but Keller seems to have made these from the 1950s until at least the late 70s. It weighs around 300lbs and can use 12" and 14" blades. 

Engine hoist came to the rescue once again as I never could have got it into the truck without it.


----------



## NCjeeper

Some E-bay purchases. Armstrong #3 jacks and various carbide to fill in my inventory gaps.


----------



## Superburban

Snagged a vise this morning. Will work nice for the small mill,or the drill press, or maybe an extra one to keep mounted on the Van Norman.


----------



## rwm

I bought this grab bag!




I plan to re-sell some of this stuff here. I certainly don't need all those 1" end mills!

Robert


----------



## NCjeeper

I would be interested in a couple of those 1 inchers.


----------



## bfk

hman said:


> Nice haul!  Now the question is, how do you safely clean gaige blocks???


I’m just going to file them down until all the stains disappear. That should work, right?
Alternatively, maybe give them a bath in some mineral spirits or acetone to get the stains off, followed by Evaporust as required. Maybe a thin coat of Starrett M1 after that, then back in the box with some VCI paper. 
That’s how I always cleaned our kids when they were young and it was never a problem. 
if someone has a better approach, please speak up.


----------



## hman

Very fine grit sandpaper ... followed by buffing with a Scotchbrite wheel?


----------



## darkzero

Sand blast em!


----------



## rwm

Use an angle grinder and take them down to the next smallest size.
R


----------



## Christianstark

I won another scrap metal auction locally and went and picked it up yesterday. Probably close to 1500 pounds in steel and aluminum with a bit of brass sprinkled in. Much of it is tool steels in flavors like S-7, H-13, A-2, P-20, D-2. There is also some long aluminum bar stock in varying sized, a plethora of 420 SS, and a hodge podge of cold and hot rolled. Got a mess of 80-20 aluminum track, and a bunch of waste copper and brass. Copper was waste from machining, and most of the brass was spent edm.

I won the auction for $124 including tax and fees. Recycled the copper and edm wire for $634.00.


----------



## Christianstark

And I bought a band saw off CL.


----------



## Brento

Great win!


----------



## Tmate

Bought this little (16 1/2" x 13 3/4") Durhand scissors lift table.  It has a 300 lb capacity, and raises objects from just under 14" to to a height of 36".  It has 4 swivel casters (2 locking), and requires maybe 20 pedal strokes from bottom to top.  It cost around $180 with free shipping at:
www.aosom.com.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Brento said:


> Great win!


no kidding, that was an astounding win! Looks like that bandsaw is going to get a work out 

Have a bit of a gloat of my own - picked up my chucks from the auction near Houston (~5 1/2h round trip!), as well a couple of extra chucks and a stop at a scrap yard on the way home 

Here are my new Bison top jaws on my new near pristine Pratt Burnerd adjust tru. Took it apart and it still had the original and non-discoloured grease in it. A small bright spot on each tooth of the pinion, but no other sign of use. Bit of surface rust that cleaned up nicely. I am VERY VERY happy with my find 



also got a nice condition 5" Buck 4 jaw. Couple of the screws were trashed, but I also got a severely trashed Hardinge/ Buck 4 jaw with it that had 2 good screws, so that fixed that. Only came with 2 jaws (hence the $35 for both!), but the ones from my 6" Buck 4 jaw fit so they'll do until I can find replacements.



import 5" 4 jaw and a large chunk of mystery steel



6" Buck adjust tru with a Hardinge threaded spindle backplate that's getting traded for a follow rest for my South Bend heavy 9



6" SCA (Swedish) 3 jaw with a Hardinge taper backplate that might be sold



and some nice bits of stainless and alu 



I won't say how much it all came to, but it was well worth the trip to Austin for the jaws and the trip to Houston for the above


----------



## FOMOGO

If your luck runs like mine, as soon as you sell the backing plates, you will find a killer deal on a Hardinge lathe. Mike


----------



## Brento

mattthemuppet2 said:


> no kidding, that was an astounding win! Looks like that bandsaw is going to get a work out
> 
> Have a bit of a gloat of my own - picked up my chucks from the auction near Houston (~5 1/2h round trip!), as well a couple of extra chucks and a stop at a scrap yard on the way home
> 
> Here are my new Bison top jaws on my new near pristine Pratt Burnerd adjust tru. Took it apart and it still had the original and non-discoloured grease in it. A small bright spot on each tooth of the pinion, but no other sign of use. Bit of surface rust that cleaned up nicely. I am VERY VERY happy with my find
> View attachment 371023
> 
> 
> also got a nice condition 5" Buck 4 jaw. Couple of the screws were trashed, but I also got a severely trashed Hardinge/ Buck 4 jaw with it that had 2 good screws, so that fixed that. Only came with 2 jaws (hence the $35 for both!), but the ones from my 6" Buck 4 jaw fit so they'll do until I can find replacements.
> View attachment 371024
> 
> 
> import 5" 4 jaw and a large chunk of mystery steel
> View attachment 371025
> 
> 
> 6" Buck adjust tru with a Hardinge threaded spindle backplate that's getting traded for a follow rest for my South Bend heavy 9
> View attachment 371026
> 
> 
> 6" SCA (Swedish) 3 jaw with a Hardinge taper backplate that might be sold
> View attachment 371027
> 
> 
> and some nice bits of stainless and alu
> View attachment 371028
> 
> 
> I won't say how much it all came to, but it was well worth the trip to Austin for the jaws and the trip to Houston for the above


Im jealous on getting a follow rest. I need a steady and follow rest for my 9A


----------



## mattthemuppet2

FOMOGO said:


> If your luck runs like mine, as soon as you sell the backing plates, you will find a killer deal on a Hardinge lathe. Mike


ha, that could be a possibility, though I think that luck would be balanced out by being divorced by my wife 


Brento said:


> Im jealous on getting a follow rest. I need a steady and follow rest for my 9A


just luck, sometimes it works out sometimes it doesn't. I got the steady from the previous owner of the lathe (don't know why he didn't include it) as I already had part of it in the various boxes of bits he gave me and I swapped him a nice 3ph 1/2hp motor for it from another auction win. There aren't many bargains to be had around these parts, but they do pop up if you keep your eyes open.


----------



## Brento

I cant really find them


----------



## darkzero

Tmate said:


> Bought this little (16 1/2" x 13 3/4") Durhand scissors lift table.  It has a 300 lb capacity, and raises objects from just under 14" to to a height of 36".  It has 4 swivel casters (2 locking), and requires maybe 20 pedal strokes from bottom to top.  It cost around $180 with free shipping at:
> www.aosom.com.


That thing is really cool! I want one!


----------



## DAM 79

rwm said:


> I bought this grab bag!
> 
> View attachment 370938
> 
> 
> I plan to re-sell some of this stuff here. I certainly don't need all those 1" end mills!
> 
> Robert


I would also be interested the 1” end mills also


----------



## mattthemuppet2

bought a 1" boring bar (Glanze) and a box of import WNMG inserts off Amazon for a bit less than $25 total


----------



## Brento

Today i got in my DRO for my mill. Pretty excited. I started to look at the book and man the set up looks confusing.


----------



## Tmate

Brento said:


> oday i got in my DRO for my mill. Pretty excited. I started to look at the book and man the set up looks confusing.



What kind of mill, and what kind of DRO?


----------



## Brento

I posted a link if you click the DRO on my original post. The mill is a Clausing 8530


----------



## Papa Charlie

Brento said:


> Today i got in my DRO for my mill. Pretty excited. I started to look at the book and man the set up looks confusing.


Can't open the link but it appears to be ToAuto, I have the same one. The instructions are not well written/translated. Once you have it installed, the setup will make more sense. There are several installation videos on YouTube that are better guides.


----------



## Brento

Papa Charlie said:


> Can't open the link but it appears to be ToAuto, I have the same one. The instructions are not well written/translated. Once you have it installed, the setup will make more sense. There are several installation videos on YouTube that are better guides.


Sorry about that. Yes it is ToAuto


----------



## Aaron_W

Brento said:


> Today i got in my DRO for my mill. Pretty excited. I started to look at the book and man the set up looks confusing.



I hope you make a post when you do your installation. I have an 8520 and a DRO is on my someday list, but I'm not sure whether the install or paying for the DRO is farther down my avoidance list.


----------



## NCjeeper

Did some horse trading. I won a raffle prize at the Bar Z summer bash. Of course it was a co-axial indicator and I already have one so I didn't need two. I traded a friend for some Pexto support rails he had since he didn't have a co axe.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

that's a pretty good trade!

I got another set of Glanze SCLCR toolholders off Amazon. First was supposed to be one 10mm square RH toolholder

got two 16mm square toolholders






well, can't complain for $12. Milled the LH one so it was 12mm wide.

Ok, another set comes up on offer, this time an 8mm RH SCLCR holder. That'll be useful, don't have anything that small.

Guess what shows up, 2 12mm square holders 







Same deal, $12.

All set for large CCMT toolholders at least!


----------



## darkzero

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Glanze...


India isn't known for making quality tooling but the Glanze tools are pretty good & they're not expensive. I used to have some myself. Those are some great deals you got there!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

yeah, they seem pretty decent so far, a step above the cheapy China stuff off ebay/ aliexpress for sure. Can't complain for $50 all in for 4 turning tools, a 1" boring bar and a bunch of inserts. Now I just have to make holders for all of them


----------



## darkzero

mattthemuppet2 said:


> First was supposed to be one 10mm square RH toolholder.........got two 16mm square toolholders
> 
> this time an 8mm RH SCLCR holder........what shows up, 2 12mm square holders


BTW, they are following the ANSI (imperial) standard, can tell by how they list the insert size (21.51). For indexable tooling that number is not the actual shank size in MM. The number is a fraction of 16. 16 would be 1". For ISO (metric) designations, then the number would be in MM for shank size & the insert size would be 060204 for size 21.51.

So the ones you got that are number 10 is 10/16, which is 5/8", which is pretty much equal to 16mm. The number 8 ones is 8/16, which is 1/2", which for tooling shank size would be equal to 12mm.

So if you wanted an 8mm or 5/16", for ANSI indexable tooling you would want to get number 5. They come in 1/4"(4), 5/16"(5), 3/8"(6), 1/2"(8), 5/8"(10), 3/4"(12), 1" (16).




mattthemuppet2 said:


> yeah, they seem pretty decent so far, a step above the cheapy China stuff off ebay/ aliexpress for sure.


Oh yeah, definitely much better quality than the generic China tool holders.


----------



## Papa Charlie

NCjeeper said:


> Did some horse trading. I won a raffle prize at the Bar Z summer bash. Of course it was a co-axial indicator and I already have one so I didn't need two. I traded a friend for some Pexto support rails he had since he didn't have a co axe.
> View attachment 371369


Nice, I won one of the mag base lights from the Bar-Z Bash.


----------



## Ianagos

darkzero said:


> BTW, they are following the ANSI (imperial) standard, can tell by how they list the insert size (21.51). For indexable tooling that number is not the actual shank size in MM. The number is a fraction of 16. 16 would be 1". For ISO (metric) designations, then the number would be in MM for shank size & the insert size would be 060204 for size 21.51.
> 
> So the ones you got that are number 10 is 10/16, which is 5/8", which is pretty much equal to 16mm. The number 8 ones is 8/16, which is 1/2", which for tooling shank size would be equal to 12mm.
> 
> So if you wanted an 8mm or 5/16", for ANSI indexable tooling you would want to get number 5. They come in 1/4"(4), 5/16"(5), 3/8"(6), 1/2"(8), 5/8"(10), 3/4"(12), 1" (16).
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, definitely much better quality than the generic China tool holders.



I was thinking the same thing but the way they have it written denotes they are metric. Eg metric holders will have the number twice in my experience. At least all the name brand ones I have handled will say so like mclnr-164c. For a 1”holder the 4 is the insert size. Vs the metric 16mm would say Mclnr1616h12 the h12 denoting the insert size.


----------



## darkzero

Ianagos said:


> I was thinking the same thing but the way they have it written denotes they are metric. Eg metric holders will have the number twice in my experience. At least all the name brand ones I have handled will say so like mclnr-164c. For a 1”holder the 4 is the insert size. Vs the metric 16mm would say Mclnr1616h12 the h12 denoting the insert size.


Right you are about that. The following characters should be a number indicating insert size followed by a letter indicating tool length. Oddly these don't have that but the 16th numbers are consistent with what he ordered & received. I was also going by the indication of the insert size listed in ANSI. But then again that's just a sticker. I would assume they'd be following the ISO standard though.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

that's pretty wild, makes sense though. I never thought of there being a different standard for decribing tool size, I just assumed (ha!) that was the metric designation as that's what I always see, eg.



it's made from a special type of steel


----------



## NCjeeper

A couple of E-Bay scores. 1" dia 6" long roughing end mill and a B&S Tapered parallel set.


----------



## Doug Gray

I had to look those parallels up. Very cool


----------



## Papa Charlie

Doug Gray said:


> I had to look those parallels up. Very cool
> View attachment 371505


I would love to come across a set of these. So many applications.


----------



## NCjeeper

Papa Charlie said:


> I would love to come across a set of these. So many applications.


I got lucky on this set. Only 1 other bidder was interested in it so I got it at a very good price. The parallels do have some surface rust but should clean up.


----------



## Brento

Papa Charlie said:


> Can't open the link but it appears to be ToAuto, I have the same one. The instructions are not well written/translated. Once you have it installed, the setup will make more sense. There are several installation videos on YouTube that are better guides.


Ive been having trouble finding any good installation videos for the DRO


----------



## Papa Charlie

Here is one.


----------



## Brento

That was the one i saw. I am looking more for explanations on all the coding for the initial set up. I will go back and rewatch the video again though


----------



## Brento

I could not pass on these two listing. I know the micrometers are china. But i had good luck with ones i have. The amount that i would use these i could not justify the higher priced ones. The gage pins sucked a little bc they are plus pins but still a great deal regardless


----------



## Larry$

Once in a while it would be nice to have bigger micrometers but the name brand ones get really expensive. You can always test this one against a known standard to be sure/confident when using it. 
Nice set of bigger gage pins. I agree it would be better for my use if they were minus instead of plus.. With that set you can measure to 1.5" holes. Combined with your sets to .500" minus, you might be able to get really good results to 1.250." 
I use my sets way more often than I had thought I would, when I splurged and bought .011 to .500 (minus.)


----------



## Brento

For what i am doing plus pins will still work great so not to worried and the micrometers were the exact reason why i bought them. Cheap and bigger sizes. I have gage blocks i can stack up to  compare a size i need to double check things.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

swapped this



for this (the follow rest )



I feel like I've found some hen's teeth in a pile of rocking horse poo


----------



## Ulma Doctor

nice score Matt!!!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

thanks Mike! I had resolved to making my own when someone with a Hardinge chucker looking for chucks popped up with a SB9 follow rest - turns out one of the chucks I got in an auction lot had a threaded Hardinge backplate. The Buck chuck also needs non-pattern top jaws which are hard to find, so it was an easy swap to make.


----------



## DAM 79

Here’s my scores from the flea market at the Tuckahoe steam and gas show some drill bits ,slitting saws,end mills ,horizontal cutters all of witch I don’t think have ever been used as they were still wrapped up tight and or in protective coating even the drill bits have some surface rust but are sharp


----------



## NCjeeper

I love the old B&S packaging. I got a cutter off of E-Bay awhile back and it was in it's original package like that.


----------



## mickri

Got tried of being cooped up in the house with the temperature above the century mark for days on end.  So bright and early I am off to a farm auction.  Love these things.  Never know what will follow me home.  Turned out to be cooler down in the Valley than at my house in the foothills.  105 verses 112.  Supposed to be the other way around.  Oh well.

On to the treasures I found.  First up is a milk crate.  Can you have too many milk crates?  They are great for storing stuff away that you promptly forget you even have.




Now the milk crate wasn't exactly empty and I don't know if I was even supposed to take it but take it I did because it was filled with C clamps.



	

		
			
		

		
	
  Look at the big clamp in the upper left.  It is bent so that the clamping screw doesn't line up with the other end.  It looks to have been made that way.  You would have to heat it red hot to bend it and there was no evidence that I could see that it had been heated.  Anybody ever see a bent C clamp?

While we are on the subject of clamps somehow I just had to bid on some pipe clamps.  Couldn't help myself.




Next was a slide hammer for doing body work.  Came in its original Styrofoam container with all of the attachments including the instructions on how to use the thing.  Now for the mystery.  There was a small plastic bottle included with everything.  What did that hold that would be used with a slide hammer?  And while I was buying auto body stuff couldn't pass up a spray gun for $5.




Next are the drills.  I have been looking at buying some bigger drills.  Big drills are expensive.  What caught my eye in the auction preview pictures were some drills that had a MT shank.  Took my MT3/MT2 adapter with me to check the shank size.  Shank was MT2.  Perfect to stick in the tailstock of my lathe.  Nothing comes easy.  The MT2 drills were part of a cabinet full of drills,  Had to buy the whole cabinet.  Included was a small ball peen hammer, a drill chuck, and an old brace (wrong term??).  Nothing is ever easy.  The guy who bought the stuff that was hanging on the wall next to the drill cabinet thought the MT2 drills and some other drills were part of his stuff.  Imagine my dismay when I went to get my drills and the drills that I really wanted were gone.  The auction company tracked the guy down and he brought the drills back.  I pulled out the MT2 drills and let him have the others he had taken.  He was happy with the solution.  As was I.





And last but not least was this.  The auction description called it a drill sharpener.  It even has one of those swing drill sharpener fixtures attached to a movable plate.  Must weigh close to 100 lbs.  I could barely pick it up off the bench it was on.  For $10 I couldn't pass it up.  What is it?


----------



## francist

mickri said:


> What is it?


Something about it looks a little hacked — did it maybe start out as a valve grinder and morphed into a makeshift drill grinder? I think I see Black & Decker cast into the base just to the left of the crank handle.


----------



## mickri

I will get it cleaned up over the next couple of days.  Who knows what I will find under the grime.  It has definitely been hacked.  My plan for it is to use it to sharpen drills and hopefully end mills.


----------



## mpoore10

I was thinking valve grinder before seeing the reply. Not positive though. I have bent c-clamps similarly when I over-tightened them. They look cast iron, but somehow can be bent. I did use heat before bending it back and learned to use a bigger clamp.


----------



## mpoore10

mickri said:


> I will get it cleaned up over the next couple of days.  Who knows what I will find under the grime.  It has definitely been hacked.  My plan for it is to use it to sharpen drills and hopefully end mills.


I almost bought a similar item at an auction. It was considerably bigger, which is why I didn't pull the trigger. My future projects storage area is already overflowing.


----------



## brino

mickri said:


> You would have to heat it red hot to bend it and there was no evidence that I could see that it had been heated. Anybody ever see a bent C clamp?



Yep:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/straightening-a-c-clamp.39484/post-338748

post 11 in that thread has the solution the worked for me:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/straightening-a-c-clamp.39484/post-349251

-brino


----------



## mickri

The mystery grinder is a Black & Decker valve grinder missing the valve attachment.  I believe it is model number 59721.  That number is cast into the base and stamped on a tag attached to the base.  The missing part was probably sitting on a shelf somewhere in the garage and got sold as who knows what.  The motor spins smoothly.  The tag references 110 volts and gives amperage but not the RPM.  It has oil cups which I  filled.  I will let the oil seep into the bearings.  Won't try to start the motor until I get it cleaned up.  The grinding wheel that came it with was loose and not even a close fit on the shaft.  It won't take much work to make it into a decent drill sharpener.  Famous last words.

As for the bent clamp it has a serious bend to it and the end has been hacked.  Probably still usable.  It is a Craftsman clamp and has the word malleable stamped on one side.  I will try bending it back.  What have I got to loose.


----------



## DiscoDan

DAM 79 said:


> Here’s my scores from the flea market at the Tuckahoe steam and gas show some drill bits ,slitting saws,end mills ,horizontal cutters all of witch I don’t think have ever been used as they were still wrapped up tight and or in protective coating even the drill bits have some surface rust but are sharp



Did you make it over to the machine shop museum? I'm a volunteer over there. We had a bunch of stuff for sale outside of our shop as well and there were two big tool sellers outside of our shop.


----------



## DAM 79

Yes I did I stopped in there sat and Sunday and the guy from Virginia with the white Chevy truck that’s where I got the drill bits and cutters from


----------



## DiscoDan

That was Alan. The other guy was Dan. They set up outside our shop for the past few shows. In addition to all the things we had out for Tuckahoe itself, I had my stuff set up to the right of the door to the shop. Alan was actually my best customer! I also bought a few things from him as well. So we just exchanged money over the four-days.


----------



## DAM 79

I know what you mean it’s easy to spend a bunch of money for all the tooling for the machines and I was surprised at how much of it was all R-8 stuff I was looking for nmbt-50 taper tooling and bigger stuff but there wasn’t much I did get a few of his big drill bits and horizontal milling cutters and there was another guy over in the back that had some bigger end mills and carbide I got a few things for him also


----------



## rabler

Thompson 8x24


----------



## NCjeeper

Picked up this cute 7" vernier height gage. May be shop made. I can't find any maker's marks.


----------



## Braeden P

I set up a table at tuckahoe and sold one depth mic and that was it! Everyone else was killing it!


----------



## Aukai

That sucks


----------



## DAM 79

Braeden P said:


> I set up a table at tuckahoe and sold one depth mic and that was it! Everyone else was killing it!


So where we’re you set up at because I didn’t see a lot of machinist tools stuff for sale


----------



## DiscoDan

Braeden, I sold some stuff for myself and I sold some stuff for Tuckahoe but it was a tough sell all four days. So don't get too discouraged about it. You were only there for a very short time so you might have done okay for the time you were there.


----------



## WobblyHand

Me either.  I was at Tuckahoe on Saturday and only saw stuff near the machinery museum.


----------



## DAM 79

So I have to ask is there anything else coming up there at Tuckahoe with there machine shop ??


----------



## Bi11Hudson

I can't get out and around much, the wheelchair is not conductive to open air markets. But most of them in my area don't have much for machine tools anyway. And what there is usually is overpriced for what it is. Harbor Freight stuff is *NOT* the same as Brown and Sharpes. Most of my buys are on eBay and the like.

And while I buy a lot of small items (cheap) most aren't really intaresting enough for here. A set of 5/16-18 taps, all three tapers, la de da. Or a dial test stand, small for my models. Whoop de do. There are a few "archaic" whatchamacallits, but no photographs so why bother.

.


----------



## Braeden P

DAM 79 said:


> So where we’re you set up at because I didn’t see a lot of machinist tools stuff for sale


Outside the main door by the tree right next to Dan


----------



## darkzero

Got my preorder for the new Knipex Twin Grip (seeing them in person makes me think even more that they should have named them Piranha). I haven't used slip joints in years, I really like Knipex's take on them. I hope they'll offer more of these in different sizes & without the screw removal jaws.








Speaking of grips, got another/spare ReGrip cause I caught a price drop on them. I love these things, have em on my floor jack handles & the handle for my arbor press. 








Was in the area so I stopped by the Rockler store. I've always seen their stuff online but had no idea they had stores. I'm not a wood guy but it made me feel like wanting to become one walking through that store! Picked up a set of Bench Cookies & a Glue Keeper. 




I've already got more than enough of these machine covers in different sizes but Amazon Warehouse had em again so I picked up 2 more. Almost all of mine I got through Amazon Warehouse, damaged clamshell but no damage to the cover.








Not really a tool but they're tools for me that I use daily. Got me a couple of new HydroSkins sleeves for my two smaller 40oz HydroFlasks. Old ones were getting worn & I wanted a new look.


----------



## Aukai

Oh good Lord  more do I want material


----------



## hman

I've enjoyed visiting Rockler, Woodcraft, and Woodworkers Supply stores.  Many of items they carry are also useful for metalworking.


----------



## FOMOGO

Been wanting one of these for some time now. Would have been nice to have the brand-name Hougen, but at 3-4 times the price this will do just fine. Cleaned and lubed it, and put slightly longer gib adjusting screws with jamb nuts on it. Plenty of power, and the magnet holds very well. Comes with 6 annular cutters, 9/16 thru 1-1/16. Will probably make up an adapter to use the smaller ones I already have. Did one test hole at 1-1/16, and worked great. You can compare the specs on Amazon between this one and the Hougen  Mike


----------



## Papa Charlie

@FOMOGO 

Mag drills are far more versatile than most give them credit for. I use to have one. Got it from a friend that needed money at the time. Did it to help him out at first, but I used the heck out of it in ways I never thought of. Would love to have another. Almost got one from an auction recently but online bidders drove the price up to almost retail. More than when you add auction fees.


----------



## Firstram

Those imported mag drills work well, you’ll enjoy having it.


----------



## extropic

@FOMOGO

I searched "50H Magnetic Drill" on Amazon with negative results.
Can you post a link?
Thanks Mike.


----------



## Papa Charlie

extropic said:


> @FOMOGO
> 
> I searched "50H Magnetic Drill" on Amazon with negative results.
> Can you post a link?
> Thanks Mike.







__





						Amazon.com : Mag Drill
					





					www.amazon.com


----------



## hman

Amazon.com
		

Currently unavailable.  Closest "equivalent," lower power, Jacobs chuck, no annular cutters, and without coolant tank or through-spindle flood:


			Amazon.com


----------



## Aukai

Evomag42, I have the Evomag28 that has been discontinued. I also have an R8 annular cutter arbor with through hole coolant for the mill that gets used more.






						Amazon.com: Evolution Power Tools EVOMAG42 1 5/8" Diameter x 2" Depth Magnetic Drilling System : Everything Else
					

Amazon.com: Evolution Power Tools EVOMAG42 1 5/8" Diameter x 2" Depth Magnetic Drilling System : Everything Else



					www.amazon.com


----------



## sdelivery

I got a rock.....lol


----------



## FOMOGO

I couldn't fine it on Amazon either, but I found it here on e-bay for a few bucks less than I paid. ttps://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l2632&_nkw=mag+drill&_sacat=11804&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=h50+mag+drill&_osacat=0


----------



## DiscoDan

Bought a large oil can with a small oil can sidekick. The small oil can is an Eagle. Also bought this Stait-Line vintage chalk line. I believe someone replaced the original and with the round brass end. I'm not sure how that would be useful but whatever


----------



## jwmay

I ordered an actual DRO for my mill/drill.  The Igaging stuff is good enough in every way but the display. Also I want all those fancy features I see in Blondihacks videos.  I'm so tired of math. I have spent all week trying to decide between power feed or DRO's. I guess I'll keep cranking for now.


----------



## DiscoDan

Bought this cool looking pump at an auction for $20 Without Really knowing anything about it. It turns out that it's an air pump for brass helmet divers in shallow warm waters. It is missing its very long handle





__





						PUMPS
					





					www.divingmachines.com


----------



## rwm

Where are you going to dive with that?!
R


----------



## Jubil

rwm said:


> Where are you going to dive with that?!
> R


And whom are you gonna trust to pump the handle?

 Chuck


----------



## FOMOGO

Probably not going to cut it, for running the bead blast cabinet, but it is pretty cool. Mike


----------



## rwm

Build a steam engine to drive that!
R


----------



## Braeden P

I scuba dive but it all safe the probability of something going wrong it low. the hard hat divers where really brave! My great grandfather was a hard hat diver for the navy during World War Two I could not imagine how crazy that would be!


----------



## DiscoDan

I will probably restore it and admire it and the bravery of men who relied on it!


----------



## Brento

I didnt buy yet because i am looking for them but anyone know where i could find one of the blue and white storage drawers?


----------



## mmcmdl

Brento said:


> I didnt buy yet because i am looking for them but anyone know where i could find one of the blue and white storage drawers?


Down my basement ?


----------



## Brento

Dave quit teasin me lol. You know sizes by any chance without going crazy to check?


----------



## mmcmdl

Brento said:


> Dave quit teasin me lol


Well , I have one .  And I'll be coming up real soon .


----------



## Brento

If you get a chance throw me some pics or better yet i will message you


----------



## mmcmdl

It's the same storage drawers but mine is gray . 18 pack of Labatts Blues and it's YOURS !

12 pack ? 
6 warm cans ?
How about a bottle cap I could sniff ?


----------



## Brento

Ill grab you a cold 18 pack when we meet up! Just tell me when!


----------



## mmcmdl

When do you usually head up to the mountains ?


----------



## Brento

Well my dad is selling the cabin prob farther up but where we met i have a hunting camp close to the town. But i remember you saying you go past Scranton PA on the way up and i am not far from there. Actually closer


----------



## mmcmdl

Oh yeah , I go right thru Scranton  Selling the cabin up above Sydney ? Tell me more !


----------



## Brento

Yea not official but prob going to happen. Just not enough time to get up there especially with it being a 3-4 hour drive


----------



## projectnut

Took a trip to my favorite used equipment dealer over the weekend to see if I could find some parts for one of my Starrett micrometers.  I have an older (circa 1950) 6" outside micrometer that has a worn ratchet pin.  Being lazy I thought I might be able to pick up a parts donor for a few bucks rather than have to make one.

As it turned out I think I hit the jackpot.  I found 4 micrometers, 6"- 7", 7"-8", 10"-11", and 12"-13".  Three of the four were in perfect condition, with the 12" to 13" one still in the original wooden box with the instruction sheet.  I couldn't bare to part out any of them but the non functional 10"-11" one.  The best part was the 3 smaller ones cost $10.00 each, while the largest in the box was $20.00

I also got the 4" import milling machine vise I ordered earlier in the week.  I haven't had a chance to check it out yet, but out of the box it looks good with no casting flaws or sand to be found. 

It's going to be a busy next couple weeks since we're heading to the Winnebago Grand National Rally in Forest City IA  later this week.  We don't regularly attend this event since it usually turns out to be "an exercise in sweating in the corn field".  This time we're making the trip to meet with old friends that we've met over the years at various rallies, or on caravans.

I'll check the vise over carefully, calibrate the micrometers and provide some pictures as time allows, or when we return.  As for the worn ratchet pin it looks like I might be making one anyway if I can get the remaining micrometer to work.  It's really only a pin .066 in diameter .125 long.  The toughest part will be trying not to drop it once it's finished.  The last one I dropped took almost an hour to find on the floor.


----------



## Papa Charlie

I keep hearing about these used tool stores that are in the Midwest and Eastern part of the country. So jealous, I have found nothing around me like that, except for the multitude of Pawn Shops. I have yet to find a deal of any type in any of those I have visited.

@projectnut  Sounds like you made a heck of a score there. Congrats!


----------



## projectnut

Papa Charlie said:


> I keep hearing about these used tool stores that are in the Midwest and Eastern part of the country. So jealous, I have found nothing around me like that, except for the multitude of Pawn Shops. I have yet to find a deal of any type in any of those I have visited.
> 
> @projectnut  Sounds like you made a heck of a score there. Congrats!


I'm not sure whether having these types of stores is a good sign or a bad one.  On one hand if the shops supplying the used equipment are successful and continually upgrading their capabilities that's a good thing.  However if the machines and tools are coming from shops that are closing it's a bad thing.

I've been visiting these stores for over 20 years.  In that time the number of offerings has certainly gone down while the prices have gone up.  Twenty years ago you could buy a Series I Bridgeport in excellent condition for around $1,500.00.  A good surface grinder would cost about $600.00.  Small shapers in good condition would go for around $200.00.  A high end horizontal bandsaw would go for $500.00 or less.  As a rule of thumb the price of mills has doubled, while the price of grinders and saws have tripled.  Lathes that once went for $500.00 to $800.00 are now going for $1,500.00 to $3,000.00.  There are far fewer of any of the machines available, and they're almost all in need of expensive repairs. 

There are still good machines and good tooling out there, but you need to know what to look for and what to avoid.  You also need to find a dealer that stands behind their sales.  Only once have I run across a machine that needed repairs.  It was an older 2 stage compressor.  As it turned out the unloader was toast.  I happened to visit the dealer a few weeks after buying it.  He asked how it was running and I told him about the unloader.  I had repaired it thinking I got such a good price some repairs would be reasonable.  In this case as a courtesy he gave me some tooling worth many times the cost of the repairs.


----------



## Papa Charlie

@projectnut  Twenty years ago there were far fewer people and even fewer hobby machinists. It is the old supply and demand formula. With all the demand, there is very little supply and the cost has escalated to what we see today. Likewise the quality of the supply isn't what it use to be. So the purchase prices are only the start of the cost. 

For some reason, could be the cool aide, out here the prices are ridiculous compared to the auction house prices I see from the Midwest and East Coast. Problem is that if you do win at one of those auctions, by the time pay someone for rigging, packaging and transport on top of the purchase and auction house charges, you are paying close to the prices out here and you are doing so without the benefit of inspection to have a better idea of condition. There is however more stock in your neck of the woods than we have and the chances of a better quality unit, is potentially higher.

Well, it is what it is.


----------



## hman

Papa Charlie said:


> I keep hearing about these used tool stores that are in the Midwest and Eastern part of the country. So jealous, I have found nothing around me like that, except for the multitude of Pawn Shops. I have yet to find a deal of any type in any of those I have visited.
> 
> @projectnut  Sounds like you made a heck of a score there. Congrats!


I feel your pain.  Back when I first lived in Oregon, I'd occasionally make the pilgrimage to Boeing Surplus, up in your neck of the woods.  Then they closed it.  Fooey!

Things aren't any better here in Arizona  
I, too, am somewhat envious of @projectnut.  Yes, things have been changing ... but at least, the goodies are there to be found.


----------



## WobblyHand

Yesterday, this DX4 showed up.  Got it from All Industrial.  Needed something a lot better than the previous vise I had.  Price was very competitive with comparable vises.  (Glacern)


Took me a while to find the screw guard/cover.  It was tucked away in the box, almost missed it.  Looks like a kind of spring steel.  What do you cut it with?  Regular saw ok?


----------



## FOMOGO

This was a Facebook MP find. $125 for the lot. Probably 6-$700 dollars worth of mostly 3/4 and 1" fittings, and nipples at today's prices. A very nice folding Reed pipe tripod/vise, an assortment of Rigid and Toledo dies, and handles, and a very nice Rigid four wheel pipe cutter. Looks like I will be running my shop air in black pipe, as I have most of the pipe I will need. Mike


----------



## vtcnc

FOMOGO said:


> This was a Facebook MP find. $125 for the lot. Probably 6-$700 dollars worth of mostly 3/4 and 1" fittings, and nipples at today's prices. A very nice folding Reed pipe tripod/vise, an assortment of Rigid and Toledo dies, and handles, and a very nice Rigid four wheel pipe cutter. Looks like I will be running my shop air in black pipe, as I have most of the pipe I will need. Mike


That’s a steal!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Alcap

I mentioned in another thread that I bought three machinist tool boxes this year , first one at our clubs flea market/swap meet . One of Facebook Market Place the last this past weekend at our clubs summer show which has a smaller flea market during the show . All were a mixed of old tools , some had end mills , bits etc . Here’s pictures of the last one after cleaning the tools up . Was surprised to see many Starrett tools This also contained the blacksmiths taps and hold downs I had threads on . Its kind of like a treasure hunt when buy one . Some of the strangest size taps I’ve ever seen , I mean never saw before . 1/2”-12. , 7/16- 27 , some of the others you can see on the bags.       https://www.jacktown.org/


----------



## Brento

Those 1/2-12 are nice to have. Very common in older machinery. Wouldnt mind getting my hands on 2 of them myself


----------



## hman

Great score!
... and +1 on @Brento's post. 1/2-12 is also used on some contemporary Chinese import machinery.


----------



## mmcmdl

@Alcap . Have you ever made it down to Lebanon for the Cabin Fever expos ?


----------



## Brento

What is that Dave. I have family in Lebanon.


----------



## mmcmdl

Cabin Fever Expo | Cabinfeverexpo
					






					www.cabinfeverexpo.com
				





Brento said:


> What is that Dave. I have family in Lebanon.


----------



## Brento

Sounds neat


----------



## projectnut

Brento said:


> Those 1/2-12 are nice to have. Very common in older machinery. Wouldnt mind getting my hands on 2 of them myself


1/2-12 pitch was the standard until about WWI.  It took several years for some manufacturers to change to the new standard.  I have a couple machines built in the early 1900's that have a number of what are now considered obsolete threads


----------



## Alcap

No Dave I haven’t . I think I read you go to NY to a cabin ? If you’re ever going up during one of our shows stop by , may not as big as some but there’s always interesting displays . And homemade ice cream !


----------



## Brento

projectnut said:


> 1/2-12 pitch was the standard until about WWI.  It took several years for some manufacturers to change to the new standard.  I have a couple machines built in the early 1900's that have a number of what are now considered obsolete threads


Yup thats why i said they were nice to have bc of that issue


----------



## Downunder Bob

1/2 12 thread is British standard whitworth, and has always been so. This thread system was invented long before the US sytems, and is still valid in many parts of the world. BSW is easy to look up.


----------



## Janderso

Downunder Bob said:


> 1/2 12 thread is British standard whitworth, and has always been so. This thread system was invented long before the US sytems, and is still valid in many parts of the world. BSW is easy to look up.


55 degrees?
I had no idea there was a 1/2" course thread other than 13 tpi.
Just like those Brits to be trend setters


----------



## BROCKWOOD

Given my current condition, which is recovering from yet another back surgery, I'm prone to muscle spasms. A byproduct of freeing up the main nerve for my left leg. At least the cramps are gone. I was perusing E bay for tools & opened up a listing. Next thing I know, my finger had rapid fired on the enter key & I won this. Paid too much IMHO, but the seller did a good job. Now I Am banning myself from E bay for a while though.


----------



## NCjeeper

2 bucks at a yard sale today. No not the nickel


----------



## hman

Tiny replica of the big 'uns.  Shucks ... with that handle loop, you could even add it to your key chain


----------



## WobblyHand

hman said:


> Tiny replica of the big 'uns.  Shucks ... with that handle loop, you could even add it to your key chain


Or it's a VERY big nickle!


----------



## Downunder Bob

Janderso said:


> 55 degrees?
> I had no idea there was a 1/2" course thread other than 13 tpi.
> Just like those Brits to be trend setters


I think a lot of people forget that the british invented the whole industrial revolution thing. Then the germans and americans got in on the act and some how they sort of got left behind for a while. 

In the early days of the industrial revolution, just about every town had their own standards for threads and just about evrything else

Some you may not have heard of, apart from BSW there is also BSF (British standatrd Fine), and BSP (British Standard Pipe), BA (Birmingam Assossiation). There were, and still are special threads for bicycles, also a brass thread.


----------



## DAM 79

So I’ve been scraping for as long as I can remember (copper and copper aluminum coil from AC units ) and I go today and I had a few mins so I went and walked around back where all the metal stuff is and what do I see but a bunch of machinery so I drove back home got tools and drove back and here’s my haul two chucks two carriage stops ,chuck guards a Aloris CA tool post (i think anyway ) wedge style and I got the sight glasses out of the monarch Lathe there was also a Pratt and Whitney lathe there two in all my years of doing this since I was younger I’ve never seen this kinda stuff here !!! And apparently this stuff has been here for 6 months or more


----------



## Brento

Damn what a shame. Hey if you find any south bend steady and follow rests im your guy lol. I havent looked for them really but i no need both or atleast a steady at some point for my 9A


----------



## DAM 79

Brento said:


> Damn what a shame. Hey if you find any south bend steady and follow rests im your guy lol. I havent looked for them really but i no need both or atleast a steady at some point for my 9A


Brento I will keep a eye out because I do seem to run across stuff in my travels


----------



## Brento

Cool thank you. Idk if there are different configurations for the 9a or not.


----------



## NCjeeper

Man should have grabbed the Monarch's taper attachment too.


----------



## NCjeeper

Went antique store shopping. Found this gem for $30 bucks. Advertised as a jewelry box. Unfortunately someone removed all the outside hardware (don't know why) but won't effect it's function of sitting on my work bench storing tools.


----------



## DAM 79

Brento said:


> Cool thank you. Idk if there are different configurations for the 9a





NCjeeper said:


> Man should have grabbed the Monarch's taper attachment too.


So next weekend I’ll probably go back and get both them lathes lol so if you know anyone looking for parts let me know cause I’ll have them !!!!


----------



## Brento

NCjeeper said:


> Went antique store shopping. Found this gem for $30 bucks. Advertised as a jewelry box. Unfortunately someone removed all the outside hardware (don't know why) but won't effect it's function of sitting on my work bench storing tools.
> View attachment 373309


There is one on marketplace for 150 with the corner pieces and the latch for the lid


----------



## mmcmdl

Brento said:


> There is one on marketplace for 150 with the corner pieces and the latch for the lid


There's one in my basement also !


----------



## Brento

Its to bad i have enough top storage lol


----------



## WobblyHand

Others could alway use some more tool storage


----------



## Brento

I need more storage dont get me wrong. I just need a bottom box to take some weight for gage pins and blocks. As well as hold some collets. I also have a 5 drawer storage unit coming from Dave anyways


----------



## mmcmdl

I'm heading NORTH next weekend for 4-5 days !


----------



## wachuko

Bought several tools... some more arriving tomorrow...




Measuring blocks, punch set, oiler that works with the button head oil fittings... 




Center punch (because, for the life of me, I can't find mine!! ), scribe, reamer, some disposable brushes, Loctite 603... 

On the T-handle tap wrench, I thought I had ordered the small and medium size... turns out I did not pay attention to the dimensions... they did not have them in order... so I place an order for the 7/32-7/16in today... now I will have all three sizes (1/16-3/16, 1/4-1/2, and 7/32-7/16).




Also got myself an apron... 

I thought I wanted a good set of tap & dies...( https://www.mcmaster.com/tap-and-die-sets/ )  but I have an US$1,100.00 h### on with only 5.00 in my pocket... I do not have the budget for those sets now... it will have to wait.  That is money I want to use towards the lathe...


----------



## Brento

mmcmdl said:


> I'm heading NORTH next weekend for 4-5 days !


I will have your beer waiting to pick up!


----------



## Brento

You got a nice haul there @wachuko i was never a fan of an Apron but thats just me


----------



## Janderso

mmcmdl said:


> I'm heading NORTH next weekend for 4-5 days !


Wait,
you aren’t working?
Good to see you found some time my friend.


----------



## mmcmdl

Brento said:


> I will have your beer waiting to pick up!


LOL !    Remind me to get a picture of that storage unit tomorrow Brent .


----------



## mmcmdl

Janderso said:


> Wait,
> you aren’t working?
> Good to see you found some time my friend.


I'm just about done Jeff . I meet up with my guy again next week to finalize everything .


----------



## wachuko

Brento said:


> You got a nice haul there @wachuko i was never a fan of an Apron but thats just me



Neither have I... but decided to give it a try... I blame it on the recent youTube videos I have been watching...


----------



## Brento

Lol watching alot of Tom Lipton and Keith Rucker are ya? Nothing wrong with that. I can see how it could be handy to have just put on and take off. Id rather a button up work shirt with a front pocket for myself.


----------



## wachuko

Brento said:


> Lol watching alot of Tom Lipton and Keith Rucker are ya? Nothing wrong with that. I can see how it could be handy to have just put on and take off. Id rather a button up work shirt with a front pocket for myself.



Blondihacks actually.  But thank you for those names.  Subscribed just now to their channels

Also found this channel when looking for books recommendations here in the forum... so added to my subscription:



			https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKLIIdKEpjAnn8E76KP7sQg


----------



## Papa Charlie

wachuko said:


> Blondihacks actually.  But thank you for those names.  Subscribed just now to their channels
> 
> Also found this channel when looking for books recommendations here in the forum... so added to my subscription:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKLIIdKEpjAnn8E76KP7sQg



A couple more that you might enjoy:

Steve Summers
Abom79
bcbloc02
Joe Pieczynski


----------



## Janderso

Estate Sale.
I bought an old Canedy-Otto-Cincinnati 16 drill press (cool)
A Binks air gun
Load binders and chain
A 3,000# winch -brand new

For $81


----------



## Brento

Nice grabs. Im in the middle of working a time out for picking up a Kennedy 273x bottom for 125$


----------



## brino

Janderso said:


> I bought an old Canedy-Otto-Cincinnati 16 drill press (cool)
> A Binks air gun
> Load binders and chain
> A 3,000# winch -brand new
> 
> For $81



Wow Jeff!

This is well deserved:




-brino


----------



## Janderso

brino said:


> Wow Jeff!
> 
> This is well deserved:
> View attachment 373417
> 
> 
> 
> -brino


A true compliment sir!


----------



## wachuko

Well…. Do not have a lathe… but got a Starrett 98-6 level…. In preparation for getting one…


----------



## Steve-F

Well, small world Wachuko, I have been following you on the 912BBS and just saw your name pop up!


----------



## wachuko

Steve-F said:


> Well, small world Wachuko, I have been following you on the 912BBS and just saw your name pop up!


Cool!!!!!


----------



## wachuko

The actual tap wrench that I wanted to buy  , arrived... and a deburring tool with blades.


----------



## wachuko

I should have waited... this arrived just now.  I want to make one when the lathe arrives (no, I have not ordered the lathe...waiting on the CFO to give her go-ahead), but I also wanted to have one now... and this one looked amazing.

The knobs are for the milling machine.  I got the motors with shafts on both ends.

If I had a lathe, I could have made them myself (Do you hear that honey!!??  )




I want a knurling tool... can't wait to start playing with stuff like that...


----------



## Janderso

wachuko said:


> The actual tap wrench that I wanted to buy  , arrived... and a deburring tool with blades.
> 
> View attachment 373437


Sweet,
You'll want the 91A- and 91B Tap wrenches also.
They are fairly affordable and it's the only way to hand tap. IMHO


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> If I had a lathe, I could have made them myself (Do you hear that honey!!??  )


Force is strong with this one - already delusional   

Nice hammer, by the way.  Not that I need one, since I did make my own, but how much was the hammer?  

Those kind of knobs are easy to make on a lathe, and to knurl.  Just adding fuel to the fire


----------



## wachuko

Janderso said:


> Sweet,
> You'll want the 91A- and 91B Tap wrenches also.
> They are fairly affordable and it's the only way to hand tap. IMHO


I will add those to the wishlist.  Thank you.


----------



## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> Force is strong with this one - already delusional
> 
> Nice hammer, by the way.  Not that I need one, since I did make my own, but how much was the hammer?
> 
> Those kind of knobs are easy to make on a lathe, and to knurl.  Just adding fuel to the fire



I got it from here:  https://www.magna-matic-direct.com/products/precision-steel-dead-blow-hammer.html

55.49 - this thing is well made.  One of each included -  brass, steel, and Delrin tips. 

In the photo you can see that I got a few extra tips, those are extra $$


----------



## GreatOldOne

Bought some time ago now, but only just washed up on the sun-kissed shores of blighty - A Shrum Tri-Fly face mill. Supposedly good for low HP machines. As endorsed (but not sponsored) by Blondihacks. It appears to be pretty good, although all I've done so far is mount it in a 3/4" collet after screwing the 3 general purpose inserts onto it that it came with (it also came with 3 aluminium inserts and a spare screw) - and then decked off a piece of scuzzy old flat bar that was lurking in the corner.





And a sticker too! 


Oh, and i've just ordered a whole set of SKF bearings to re-do the headstock of my lathe. Been getting a lot of chatter just recently. And there doesn't seem to be any other root cause of it but the spindle. I have no idea how hard a life they've had prior to me owning the lathe, as it was used when I got it. 

It spins OK, and there doesn't seem to be any axial play (and the preload nuts are tight), but it does deflect radial if you press on the chuck or stock held in the chuck. Not a lot, but probably more than it should. We're talking 1-2 hundredths of a millimetre according to my DTI on the headstock.

A full set with new oil seals wasn't a lot of money - one of the few benefits of having a small lathe I suppose.


----------



## BGHansen

wachuko said:


> I should have waited... this arrived just now.  I want to make one when the lathe arrives (no, I have not ordered the lathe...waiting on the CFO to give her go-ahed), but I also wanted to have one now... and this one looked amazing.
> 
> The knobs are for the milling machine.  I got the motors with shafts on both ends.
> 
> If I had a lathe, I could have made them myself (Do you hear that honey!!??  )



Not that I'm trying to stress out your marriage, but here are some lathes in FL.  I use the search engine "www.searchtempest.com" which hunts on Craig's List and eBay.  You can filter the searches by cost, distance, condition, etc.  

Bruce

Grizzly 9972Z (11 x 26) for $1800





						Grizzly metal lathe 9972Z - tools - by owner - sale
					

I have a like new grizzly metal lathe bought less then 6 months ago. Paid roughly $2,500 with shipping. Very little use Lathe comes with... 5" 3-jaw chuck with two sets of jaws 6-1/2" 4-jaw chuck...



					daytona.craigslist.org
				




No name given, no QCGB, no tooling, $660.








						Metal Lathe - tools - by owner - sale
					

Metal Lathe Swing 11" Center 23" Spindle bore 1 3/8" Steady Rest Metal Stand included Will help load onto your vehicle



					sarasota.craigslist.org
				




A Logan 11" with some tooling, think it's a 24" bed for $1500








						logan 11" metal lathe 927 w/ 3 & 4 jaw chucks screw cutting - tools...
					

Sorry the pictures are not very good. No broken teeth. Power cross feed. Have factory reprint manuals/paperwork. quick change tool post includes carbide tools, boring, parting, and knurling tools....



					orlando.craigslist.org


----------



## wachuko

BGHansen said:


> Not that I'm trying to stress out your marriage, but here are some lathes in FL.  I use the search engine "www.searchtempest.com" which hunts on Craig's List and eBay.  You can filter the searches by cost, distance, condition, etc.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> Grizzly 9972Z (11 x 26) for $1800
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grizzly metal lathe 9972Z - tools - by owner - sale
> 
> 
> I have a like new grizzly metal lathe bought less then 6 months ago. Paid roughly $2,500 with shipping. Very little use Lathe comes with... 5" 3-jaw chuck with two sets of jaws 6-1/2" 4-jaw chuck...
> 
> 
> 
> daytona.craigslist.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No name given, no QCGB, no tooling, $660.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Metal Lathe - tools - by owner - sale
> 
> 
> Metal Lathe Swing 11" Center 23" Spindle bore 1 3/8" Steady Rest Metal Stand included Will help load onto your vehicle
> 
> 
> 
> sarasota.craigslist.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A Logan 11" with some tooling, think it's a 24" bed for $1500
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> logan 11" metal lathe 927 w/ 3 & 4 jaw chucks screw cutting - tools...
> 
> 
> Sorry the pictures are not very good. No broken teeth. Power cross feed. Have factory reprint manuals/paperwork. quick change tool post includes carbide tools, boring, parting, and knurling tools....
> 
> 
> 
> orlando.craigslist.org



I had decided on a Precision Matthews PM-1030V-wQCTP-w/2axDRO.

Here is the thread I created with a few questions:








						Precision Matthews PM-1030V-wQCTP- ( and w/2axDRO??? )
					

Here you go :)  As for tools?  ALL. OF. THEM.  YES DRO! ALWAYS THE DRO!!!!!!!!!!!! It came pre-installed which was cool - faster than installing the one on Milly.  The machine is only the beginning....  But, you'll want a Machinist's level so you can tell how bad the floor is, and finally give...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




Afraid to buy used and inherit someone else problems...  But man, that Grizzly is new... he only had it for 6 months... I do not know how it compares with what I had decided to buy....   I need to research quickly and see if it is better to go with that than the PM...

*EDIT:  Looking at the specs and a few videos on that G9972Z, and I am not really looking forward to changing belts to vary the speed... will stay the course with the PM lathe.... I should be able to place the order for it towards the end of next month...  but thank you for looking for other alternatives! *


----------



## Janderso

I finally ordered a good dial test indicator.
I acquired old used turds, I broke down and bought a piece of junk tenths indicator that won't repeat.
So I finally did it.

Mitutoyo baby!!








						MITUTOYO 513-442-10T 0 - 0.060
					

FeaturesSmooth spindle movement for increased measuring accuracy.Water and dust resistant one-piece black bezel and hard coated crystal for improved durability.20° tilted dial face for easy reading.Anti-magnetic characteristics.Available in white or black dial face colors.Includes5/32" & 3/8"...




					www.travers.com


----------



## matthewsx

Janderso said:


> I finally ordered a good dial test indicator.
> I acquired old used turds, I broke down and bought a piece of junk tenths indicator that won't repeat.
> So I finally did it.
> 
> Mitutoyo baby!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MITUTOYO 513-442-10T 0 - 0.060
> 
> 
> FeaturesSmooth spindle movement for increased measuring accuracy.Water and dust resistant one-piece black bezel and hard coated crystal for improved durability.20° tilted dial face for easy reading.Anti-magnetic characteristics.Available in white or black dial face colors.Includes5/32" & 3/8"...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.travers.com


Seems like a small price to pay for piece of mind....


----------



## Larry$

From India via eBay tailstock die holder. Will hold 4 different sizes of dies. I'm really surprised at the nice quality. The die holder slides perfectly on the MT3 shaft.


----------



## Janderso

Larry$ said:


> From India via eBay tailstock die holder. Will hold 4 different sizes of dies. I'm really surprised at the nice quality. The die holder slides perfectly on the MT3 shaft.


Hey that's great. I was going to make a set but I have so much to do I thought I would just buy it. $68 shipped.
Thanks for the idea-reference.


----------



## Eyerelief

Janderso said:


> I finally ordered a good dial test indicator.
> I acquired old used turds, I broke down and bought a piece of junk tenths indicator that won't repeat.
> So I finally did it.
> 
> Mitutoyo baby!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MITUTOYO 513-442-10T 0 - 0.060
> 
> 
> FeaturesSmooth spindle movement for increased measuring accuracy.Water and dust resistant one-piece black bezel and hard coated crystal for improved durability.20° tilted dial face for easy reading.Anti-magnetic characteristics.Available in white or black dial face colors.Includes5/32" & 3/8"...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.travers.com


I did the same.  Been using beaters and nearly indicators or spent as little as possible.  Just bought a Mitutoyo, should be here today
Mitutoyo 513-406-10T DIAL TI, Full, STD 0.03"/0.7 mm, 0.0002" Accuracy, 0.0005"/0.01 mm, Yellow/White​


----------



## DiscoDan

Yesterday I want to items at an auction. A Victor oxy-acetylene setup with bottles, cart, etc and an engine hoist with leveled. The oxy-acetylene set up also had a spare set of brand new hoses!


----------



## wachuko

98-6 level arrived.  Wife has not taken away my credit card, so I also sneaked a digital torque adapter that I wanted for some time...


----------



## Janderso

wachuko said:


> 98-6 level arrived.  Wife has not taken away my credit card, so I also sneaked a digital torque adapter that I wanted for some time...
> View attachment 373657


The 98-6 is a handy level. You probably know it won't be adequate to level a lathe right?
Ask me how I know


----------



## wachuko

You can tell I want to start playing... and that I need to stop watching those videos from Blondihacks...

Ordered the following:

Norton NTFB14 Stone India Aluminum Oxide Oil Stone 1/4" X 1" X 4 Fine Grit
5C-CB 5C Collet Block Set - Hex Collet Block, Square Collet Block and Collet Closer


----------



## wachuko

Janderso said:


> The 98-6 is a handy level. You probably know it won't be adequate to level a lathe right?
> Ask me how I know



Do not say that!!  Take that back right now!!  

That is the only reason I bought it!!


----------



## JRaut

Janderso said:


> You probably know it won't be adequate to level a lathe right?





wachuko said:


> Do not say that!!  Take that back right now!!
> 
> That is the only reason I bought it!!



It's true indeed.


BUT. What's (probably) also true, is that a good 90% or more of all the hobby lathes out there have never been leveled whatsoever. **

And I'd also make the audacious claim that a very large percentage of lathes in machine shops haven't been 'correctly' leveled either. Even the ones that have been leveled once-upon-a-time have likely not been checked in years/decades.

You're getting a brand new PM, and you're pretty new to this hobby altogether, correct? (Good for you on both accounts!!) I strongly doubt there could ever be enough twist in the bed for you to notice for at least a couple years. And then in a couple years, you can decide if you want to buy a Starrett 199. Or maybe by then you'll have met a local chum that'll let you borrow his in exchange for a few beers.

Long story short: start making chips as soon as your new lathe arrives. Work out those minor details later, and only if you need to!


** EDIT:  I _HAVE_ a Starrett 199 level, and even I've not properly leveled my 1940s lathe. The parts I make come out great!


----------



## Janderso

Many of us own the 98-6, the 98-12 and the link below.
When leveling a lathe, it is helpful to have a helper and 2 levels.
The purists and the pros say you need a .0005" in 12" accuracy I believe.
I will be corrected shortly.
Jraut is also probably very correct









						12" MASTER PRECISION LEVEL FOR MACHINIST TOOL NEW .0005 R}  | eBay
					

2 graduated vials allow for lateral & Horizontal settings. 12" MASTER PRECISION LEVEL. Cast iron body. Main level vial is graduated to 10 second accuracy (one division equals. 0005" per foot. You may ask for freight cost before buying tools. ).



					www.ebay.com


----------



## wachuko

JRaut said:


> It's true indeed.


Ah, carp... so I got the wrong one... SOB!    



JRaut said:


> ...You're getting a brand new PM, and you're pretty new to this hobby altogether, correct? (Good for you on both accounts!!) I strongly doubt there could ever be enough twist in the bed for you to notice for at least a couple years. And then in a couple years, you can decide if you want to buy a Starrett 199. Or maybe by then you'll have met a local chum that'll let you borrow his in exchange for a few beers.
> 
> Long story short: start making chips as soon as your new lathe arrives. Work out those minor details later, and only if you need to!...



I am pretty new to all this, correct.  Ordering my small PM lathe next month.

I will start storing beer for when I meet that special someone with a Starrett 199, hahahahahhaha

Thank you!


----------



## Janderso

wachuko said:


> Ah, carp... so I got the wrong one... SOB!
> 
> 
> 
> I am pretty new to all this, correct.  Ordering my small PM lathe next month.
> 
> I will start storing beer for when I meet that special someone with a Starrett 199, hahahahahhaha
> 
> Thank you!


I agree, sort of.
You do need to make sure your lathe settles on all it's feet in a matter that will not twist the bed. 
Don't be concerned about having it level. Lathes are on ships. But, those same lathes are mounted in a way that mitigates any twisting of the bed.
I'm going to shut up now and let someone else take over. 
We all learn the correct way to go about these things sooner or later, at least you should. Plenty of good videos on lathe leveling.


----------



## Larry$

DiscoDan said:


> Yesterday I want to items at an auction. A Victor oxy-acetylene setup with bottles, cart, etc and an engine hoist with leveled. The oxy-acetylene set up also had a spare set of brand new hoses!


Did you get the tank ownership papers with them?


----------



## Larry$

wachuko said:


> Ah, carp... so I got the wrong one... SOB!
> 
> 
> 
> I am pretty new to all this, correct.  Ordering my small PM lathe next month.
> 
> I will start storing beer for when I meet that special someone with a Starrett 199, hahahahahhaha
> 
> Thank you!


Since beer doesn't keep well you'll have to keep rotating your stock.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

wachuko said:


> Well…. Do not have a lathe… but got a Starrett 98-6 level…. In preparation for getting one…


I have been doing primitive model building from childhood, as in age 10 or 11. I didn't get a lathe of my own until I had enlisted and went to sea in '68. My first machine was a UniMat DB-200. Small so I could stash it in the elect. shop on the ship. Admitedly, I did have access to a full size machine, although I wasn't allowed to actually run it. Just touch it as long as I wiped my fingerprints off.

In any case, as a teenager, I did have access to basic "home owner" tooling. I took my Pop's 3/8 (I think) drill and chucked it up in a vise. A true vise, although low end (very low end) It was of cast iron like a machinist's vise. Taping the trigger down and plugged into a switched outlet. For tooling, I used mostly (rusty, broken) files and a couple of homemade gouges. Not much of even a wannabe lathe, but it was in the days when I was making switches with a piece of hack saw blade and a couple of machine screws. I thought it was quite a machine. FWIW, I only tried line voltage switching the one time. The rest were low voltage. . .

As time passed, a neighbor did allow me to touch his machine. I don't know what it actually was, but in the '60s and looking back was probably the Sears version of the 618 Atlas. Most times, I was allowed to do basic setups and then he would make the cut. It was here I learned about 4 jaw chucks and how to center them. Then, I got a driver's license and started chasing girls and other "grown man" doings and machining fell _way_ down the priority list. Then I turned 15 and we moved south from Virginia to Alabama, when I essentially had to start all over in everything.

I apologize for the personal history lesson, but it does apply to what I am trying to convey. Being a beginning machinist (a novice) is as much a state of mind as it is having the proper machines. I wasn't trying to be a novice machinist, I wanted to make parts for my models. Parts that I could have bought if there had been any loose money. But times were slim at the time and I could only make them or do without. Doing without wasn't an option, this was my hobby obsession. And I did make a few things to help out with the house, seldom noticed.

.

.


----------



## Larry$

Janderso said:


> Hey that's great. I was going to make a set but I have so much to do I thought I would just buy it. $68 shipped.
> Thanks for the idea-reference.


I've got dies to 2" diameter so planned on making an additional holder to cover all my bases.


----------



## DiscoDan

Larry$ said:


> Did you get the tank ownership papers with them?



I haven't picked up yet. I will ask. If I don't get them, are my options just to buy new? I am aware tanks can be an issue.


----------



## Papa Charlie

The auction description should indicate whether the tanks come with them or not. They often don't.
If I remember correctly my tanks were marked indicating they were purchased and not owned by the gas company. But for the life of me, can't remember the markings.

Never had any paperwork indicating that I owned them. They could tell by looking at the stamp and exchanged the tank for another User Owned type of tank.


----------



## hman

In some areas (states), it's assumed that you own the tanks.  I'd bought tanks in Oregon, moved to Arizona, and had no trouble exchanging them at a local wekding supply store.  No idea what things are like in Maryland, but I do wish you luck.


----------



## WobblyHand

Couple of little things yesterday.  Got a couple of dial indicator tips, a standard and a button head for my old Federal C21 dial indicator.  Also a fuller thread pitch gauge.  Was always annoyed that I couldn't measure relatively common threads with the thread gauge I had.  This one goes from 4-84 pitch.  Should be set for most imperial threads.  There are 51 pitches.  On the back side it tells you the range of each pivot.


----------



## Doug Gray

I was looking for a small accurate drill press. Kajiji came up with this from a local optical lab that had closed down.

This is used to drill holes in rimless eyeglass lenses. If you wanted to replace it with the latest model your looking at $1990


----------



## wachuko

Very nice find!


----------



## brino

Doug Gray said:


> I was looking for a small accurate drill press. Kajiji came up with this from a local optical lab that had closed down.



Very nice!
Is that a Proxxon?

-brino


----------



## Doug Gray

brino said:


> Very nice!
> Is that a Proxxon?
> 
> -brino


Yes Sir German, variable speed.
I haven't checked this out thoroughly yet, its still in my truck, but the x,y table seems top quality. I wasn't look for an x,y but hay.
It has x,y and then the two clamps can be angled.


----------



## Gaffer

I was debating to make a plasma CNC system like David, but my list of projects is out of control and I stumbled across and bought this today. It's a year old, in great shape, and I got it for nearly 50% off new. Now to make space for it.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Gaffer said:


> I was debating to make a plasma CNC system like David, but my list of projects is out of control and I stumbled across and bought this today. It's a year old, in great shape, and I got it for nearly 50% off new. Now to make space for it.


Sweet! Now that is a find.


----------



## NCjeeper

Gaffer said:


> I was debating to make a plasma CNC system like David, but my list of projects is out of control and I stumbled across and bought this today. It's a year old, in great shape, and I got it for nearly 50% off new. Now to make space for it.


Did the pistol come with it too?


----------



## brino

NCjeeper said:


> Did the pistol come with it too?



Maybe that just ensured a great deal........................ 
-brino


----------



## Gaffer

NCjeeper said:


> Did the pistol come with it too?


No. He kept that and his handful of mags. He competes at a local range. That’s something I miss and may get back into one of these days. He has a SWAG finger brake he’s sell that I’m going to get next week. I’ve wanted one for a while, just haven’t pulled the trigger.


----------



## Christianstark

Steve-F said:


> Well, small world Wachuko, I have been following you on the 912BBS and just saw your name pop up!





wachuko said:


> Cool!!!!!


If you are ever on RL, look me up in the 997 forums if you are willing to hang with a water cooled guy…


----------



## wachuko

Christianstark said:


> If you are ever on RL, look me up in the 997 forums if you are willing to hang with a water cooled guy…


Cool! I will!  I used to have a 996TT… now all I have is old projects with nothing road worthy at this time….


----------



## Steve-F

I have my plate full with a 1981 SC Targa, a 1975 914, a 1967 912 (sleeping) and the current project, a 1966 912, my wife's favorite:<)


----------



## Brento

I bought a set of calibration weights i am thinking to use with my HF bandsaw for the feed rate maybe. 10$ couldnt beat it. I then got 3 decent sized wooden boxes for 10$. Still couldnt beat it. Wish they were humidors but still will work great and i couldnt pass on the 50$ brand new drill dr. Model 500. I can sharpen by hand but i am thinking of using it for work as well plus its nice to do split point.


----------



## DAM 79

More goodies from the junkyard yesterday I got a taper attachment off a Monarch lathe that I though might fit on my series 60 but after I got it home it doesn’t look like it unfortunately and I got a carriage stop that also doesn’t fit because my lathe is a CY and it hits the rod


----------



## Brento

Heres the Kennedy i got for 125$. Slides need a little wd-40 spray and a good cleaning will set her up nicely


----------



## DAM 79

Brento said:


> Heres the Kennedy i got for 125$. Slides need a little wd-40 spray and a good cleaning will set her up nicely


That’s what I need to fine is some Kennedy boxes to put some of my tools in instead of Piling them up on shelves


----------



## Brento

It took a while to find one that wasnt a crazy price.


----------



## .LMS.

A wilton bullet vise showed up on FB marketplace yesterday and I went and bought it today.   Not a bargain but not a rippoff.   Yes, I know there are better vises for the money, but these are just so iconic and I always wanted one.   I like how the seller didn't paint it over - it's got the patina of him using it for 10 years and his pops using for who knows how long before that.   I took it apart when I got it home and I'll clean it up a bit and lube it, but then it'll go right into service.   Check another thing off my bucket list....


----------



## hman

Looks like a real gem!  How big are the jaws?  Looks like 3 or 4 inches.


----------



## .LMS.

hman said:


> Looks like a real gem!  How big are the jaws?  Looks like 3 or 4 inches.



3.5" jaws.   A little bigger would have been nicer, but this is damn close to the sweet spot for what I'll use it for.


----------



## Eyerelief

You can't help but like those bullet vises, just look at it!  It screams quality.


----------



## wachuko

Got a few things...


----------



## FOMOGO

You should never burn your fingertips again. Mike



wachuko said:


> Got a few things...


----------



## wachuko

FOMOGO said:


> You should never burn your fingertips again. Mike


You know... took me awhile to understand your reply.  I first acknowledge with a , but after watching a Cheech & Chong movie, it became all clear...  Funny man.


----------



## Larry$

Tailstock die holder.
Follow up to my purchase. 
Yesterday I made 3 odd ball studs for a setup on a wood shaper. First time using the very cheap, very nicely made in India, tailstock die holder. M12-1.75 , 1 1/2" die, *slick and easy*. 1/2" steel, 7.75" long, turned to 12mm each end, chamfer, thread @ 40rpm, hex block on mill cut 7/16" wrench flats 2" from one end. I've used various methods in the past to get started straight. This is a winner.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Larry$ said:


> Tailstock die holder.
> Follow up to my purchase.
> Yesterday I made 3 odd ball studs for a setup on a wood shaper. First time using the very cheap, very nicely made in India, tailstock die holder. M12-1.75 , 1 1/2" die, *slick and easy*. 1/2" steel, 7.75" long, turned to 12mm each end, chamfer, thread @ 40rpm, hex block on mill cut 7/16" wrench flats 2" from one end. I've used various methods in the past to get started straight. This is a winner.


I have used a standard die holder but used the tail stock quill to push on the back of the die to get it aligned. Works pretty well, but I can see the advantages of this tool too.


----------



## Eyerelief

Larry$ said:


> Tailstock die holder.
> Follow up to my purchase.
> Yesterday I made 3 odd ball studs for a setup on a wood shaper. First time using the very cheap, very nicely made in India, tailstock die holder. M12-1.75 , 1 1/2" die, *slick and easy*. 1/2" steel, 7.75" long, turned to 12mm each end, chamfer, thread @ 40rpm, hex block on mill cut 7/16" wrench flats 2" from one end. I've used various methods in the past to get started straight. This is a winner.


I purchased a tailstock die holder from Neils Niche many years ago.  Its been great. Real time saver.  Now I can handle dies up to 1.5", taps bigger than anything I will ever need.  I made one for a 2" die out of a massive piece of 12L14 that runs on a piece of half inch TGP tool steel.  I just insert it in a drill chuck.


----------



## wachuko

Remind me again... what is the first thing to go???  I can't remember...

I went to put away what arrived... guess what I found?




Good grief...


----------



## Gaffer

wachuko said:


> Remind me again... what is the first thing to go???  I can't remember...
> 
> I went to put away what arrived... guess what I found?
> 
> View attachment 374283
> 
> 
> Good grief...


Been there, done that! LOL


----------



## KevinM

Please send me your spare so that you will have more room in your toolbox.


----------



## Eyerelief

Now you have a spare auxiliary double backup reserve unit!


----------



## hman

If you're considering selling one of them ... Before doing so, do a head-to-head function test.  Get each one well centered, then keep the one that has less wobbulation.  I've got one that wobbles by about 1 1/2 thousandths, even when fully centered.  I guess the "swash plate" isn't perpendicular to the rotation axis. !!)^*((@%$*(&!^^!!!!


----------



## rwm

I bought a back plate to mount a 3 jaw on my rotary table.  Unfortunately, the threaded mounting holes are drilled way crooked. It is going back immediately!




Does that look even close to straight? How does this crap happen?
Does anyone have a recommendation for a back plate for a 5" chuck on a 6" rotary table? While were at it, how do you get the MT2 stub correct so the back plate meets the table surface?
Robert


----------



## wachuko

Ignorance is a bliss...  So I have been using my humble G0704 mill since 2015 for small things... a couple of brake caliper modifications... helping a friend making a mount for a motorcycle steering damper... just making chips cutting scrap aluminum I buy at the local metal supplier... Even used it to make a wood cap for my coffee grinder...




It was't until I started working on converting it to CNC, with the machine out of commission,  that I really started to look at how to use it correctly... meaning, I never checked anything on it.

The vise, ha! I aligned it using a machinist square...  Tramming the mill? What the heck is that!?

It wasn't until someone here suggested I looked at videos from Blondihacks (watching her Mill and Lathe series for beginners) and then from there jumping to other video series from other folks (mrpete222, oxtoolco, Keith Rucker, Tom Techniques, and several others) that I started to realize how to walk towards the correct path...

I must admit the wrong of my ways... So now I am doing something about it... Between ordering the lathe in a few weeks and having taken apart and assembled back the mill, this has encouraged me to learn more on how to do things correctly.  So I ordered a few books, ordering all the tools you have seen me share here... and some more... searching the forum for what other beginners ask (there is a lot that I do not know to even ask... so reading those threads helps a lot)...

Now, I know, I read this here as well... we come here to make the tools... not to buy tools we can make.  Well, that is not my reality right now, but I will get there.  Really looking forward to that.

I saw the video on the Mill Tutorial 2 - Setup, and realized that I did not even had the holders to validate the setup of my milling machine...

Long post to share that I ordered a few tools to make sure my mill was put together back correctly... I ordered a tramming tool... a shank mount indicator holder (so I can index the vise)...







I did indulged also on a vise jaw stop (another project I had on the list to make myself)...




That is all for now... back to watching a few more videos and reading some more threads... I should be getting ready for my trip in the morning... one more video, one more video...


----------



## FOMOGO

Picked up these Lunkenheimer Royal #5 oilers for the Niles lathe, from a new friend who is selling off a three generation family excavating  business. Have bought a lot of steel stock, and quite a few other items from him in the last few months. They have shut the sale down temporairilly, and are reorganizing, and bringing out pallet after pallet of tools and parts from outlying buildings, and will be reopening the sale in September. I stopped in to see if he happened to have any brass round stock, and when I told him I was going to make brass and glass oilers for my lathe, he said you know I have some of those. The universe works in mysterious ways. Need to adapt them down from 1/2" npt on the oiler, to what ever the thread on the bearing cap is. I think they look right at home.  Cheers, Mike


----------



## Steve-F

Those are WAY cool!!!!


----------



## rwm

It seems like there's oilers would be a great project! You can buy those glass cylinders at McMaster
R


----------



## FOMOGO

That was my plan, but after pricing 3.25"x 12" brass stock @ $425 + shipping I was looking at other options. Was considering melting down a bunch of brass fittings and such I have been hording, but for what I paid for these, it would have been kind of silly considering everything else on my to do list. That and the fact that there are long slender needle valves to control the flow that would have been pretty challenging to create, not to mention the small sight glass at the base that allows you to see the rate of flow. Will post some pics of it disassembled later today. Mike



rwm said:


> It seems like there's oilers would be a great project! You can buy those glass cylinders at McMaster
> R


----------



## Papa Charlie

FOMOGO said:


> That was my plan, but after pricing 3.25"x 12" brass stock @ $425 + shipping I was looking at other options. Was considering melting down a bunch of brass fittings and such I have been hording, but for what I paid for these, it would have been kind of silly considering everything else on my to do list. That and the fact that there are long slender needle valves to control the flow that would have been pretty challenging to create, not to mention the small sight glass at the base that allows you to see the rate of flow. Will post some pics of it disassembled later today. Mike


I have been trying to locate one of those for my lathe. The new ones are not as nice as the older ones. Great find!

If you come across another one that you don't need let me know. That would fit perfect for my lathe modification project.


----------



## FOMOGO

He had several others. Some all brass, and several smaller glass and brass units. let me know what size you are after and I can check on price. There are also some available on e-bay here  https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...l1313&_nkw=Luckenheimer+brass+oilers&_sacat=0


----------



## Papa Charlie

Not looking for an antique. I would never place an antique on my lathe which is more modern. I want something functional but looks nice.

Will send a PM.


----------



## Janderso

I am very impressed with this tap and die holder set for lathes. It was cheap and the quality and finish surprised the heck out of me.
I have to use an MT-3 to 4 adapter but that's no big deal


----------



## mcostello

Traded an as yet undetermined bit of work for a tool post grinder, which I hope will work into more work in the future.


----------



## FOMOGO

A pic of the unit disassembled. Mike


----------



## GreatOldOne

#18 super chuck. Thanks to @Janderso, I’ll actually be able to use this (he’s helping me source an R8-JT4 arbor for it). Unlike the #20 I’ve already cleaned & refurbished. Which is up for grabs BTW. If you need a super enormous chuck, check out the for sale section!


----------



## GreatOldOne

Just spent the last couple of hours stripping it down and giving a damn good clean / refurb. Getting the straight shank out of it was a pain in the ass - I think it was put in by Thor. Or maybe the Hulk. It took heat, swearing, percussion & the hydraulic press - *at the same time* - to get the damn thing to release. When it did it went with a bang. Pressing the sleeve of was much easier, revealing very dirty but good condition jaws and, bearings and nut.
	

		
			
		

		
	



everything was cleaned in meths, given a buff with on the wire wheel, and a tickle of scotchbrigh. The gripping surfaces of the jaws where lightly stoned, and everything was re-assembled with new lube.



again, I’m amazed at how well these clean up with very little effort.






	

		
			
		

		
	
This is a much better size. The 20 really was too big for my mill - I was kidding myself when I thought it wasn’t.


so I’m keeping the 18 and 14, as that cover me from 1 to 20mm now, which is plenty. I dunno if to keep the 16 now for possible use on the lathe, but I have another 14 on a a morse 2 shank which I use most of the time, and if I need bigger than it can do, I have some morse taper drills.


----------



## Steve-F

Ha! I'm doing the same thing to a Albrecht as I type this:<) Nice job!!!


----------



## keeena

Picked this up the other day: a Berkroy B90 24" finger brake. Fairly complete; missing a 3/4" finger, cam for the angle stop, and the material stops/outriggers. She'll be getting some TLC to get rid of the rust and otherwise tidy her up a bit. Hard to find info on these - could only find a few pictures online. Seems well built; designed for up to 16gauge mild steel.


----------



## wachuko

Well... I finally ordered my lathe...

and then changed the order... lol...

PM-1236??


----------



## Janderso

keeena said:


> Picked this up the other day: a Berkroy B90 24" finger brake. Fairly complete; missing a 3/4" finger, cam for the angle stop, and the material stops/outriggers. She'll be getting some TLC to get rid of the rust and otherwise tidy her up a bit. Hard to find info on these - could only find a few pictures online. Seems well built; designed for up to 16gauge mild steel.
> 
> View attachment 374466


With all due respect, you suck.
NICE!


----------



## Christianstark

Got these from the Amazon delivery person today. Looking forward to installing my DRO's when my machines come in finally. They still aren't even on a boat.


----------



## pontiac428

Christianstark said:


> Got these from the Amazon delivery person today. Looking forward to installing my DRO's when my machines come in finally. They still aren't even on a boat.


I just used my (old) transfer punches yesterday to install the DRO on my mill.  Worked great!  Everything lined up like I wanted it to.


----------



## Larry$

I have a cheap set of Imperial center punches. I've re-ground the points on some of them, kind of soft. It would be handy to also have the metric set like you got. I work mostly in metric, do you also?


----------



## Christianstark

Larry$ said:


> I have a cheap set of Imperial center punches. I've re-ground the points on some of them, kind of soft. It would be handy to also have the metric set like you got. I work mostly in metric, do you also?


The imperial set is coming Monday. I don’t have a preference yet, but I imagine I’ll be working mostly in imperial.


----------



## NCjeeper

Hit up the swap meet at the super chevy show in Bristol TN. Found a few things.


----------



## 682bear

Wifey and I spent the day today at the 'Worlds Longest Yard Sale'... we drove probably 40 miles of it, all in Alabama.

We didn't buy much, but I did pick up a couple of ¾" masonry drills for $1 each...




I also bought a Mitutoyo DTI, mounted on a chineseum mag base for $30... it needs cleaning, but works smoothly.







I also bought 9 t-shirts, (irregulars, but good for 'shop shirts'), 2 bottles of BBQ sauce, and a large cup of homemade vanilla ice cream that didn't last long enough.

-Bear


----------



## wachuko

Christianstark said:


> Got these from the Amazon delivery person today. Looking forward to installing my DRO's when my machines come in finally. They still aren't even on a boat.
> 
> View attachment 374473


Sweet!  

I have both sets in my Amazon wishlist… and a set of reamers, and…and…


----------



## John O

Mechanic gave me an arbor press, I think it's 3 ton


----------



## WobblyHand

A couple of minor things.  Some 1/8" tool steel for making some internal threaders, and some batteries for my shop calculator, an old HP15c.  Calculator quit a couple of days ago.  Opened it up and found a slightly corroded battery.  Measured the voltage and found it on the low side, so ordered some.  Cleaned the battery and calculator and got it to work again.  The 15C needs 3 cells, I ordered 6.  Installed the 3 cells, and calculator is good for another 10 years!


----------



## WobblyHand

John O said:


> Mechanic gave me an arbor press, I think it's 3 ton


Oooh!  Kind of jealous, been looking for a 3 ton that I can afford.


----------



## brino

John O said:


> Mechanic gave me an arbor press, I think it's 3 ton



It sure feels like it when you have to move it! 

-brino


----------



## John O

brino said:


> It sure feels like it when you have to move it!
> 
> -brino


I just pried the kids from their video game and made them move it.


----------



## Larry$

WobblyHand said:


> old HP15c. Calculator


I had an HP financial calculator for 30 years. Hated it when it died. Very few calculators are available with reverse Polish notation these days, too bad, much better system.


----------



## Christianstark

Delivery guy brought this for the shop.


----------



## NCjeeper

Throw another side box on the other side of the main box, and that is what I used for years. Good boxes for the money. I finally out grew it of course.


----------



## Christianstark

NCjeeper said:


> Throw another side box on the other side of the main box, and that is what I used for years. Good boxes for the money. I finally out grew it of course.


I have another 44” chest coming already. They just didn’t nt have it in stock


----------



## FOMOGO

Love the blue color on those. Mike


----------



## hman

Larry$ said:


> I had an HP financial calculator for 30 years. Hated it when it died. Very few calculators are available with reverse Polish notation these days, too bad, much better system.


Not cheap, but still avilable ...





						Amazon.com : HP 12CP Financial Calculator (Renewed) : Office Products
					

Amazon.com : HP 12CP Financial Calculator (Renewed) : Office Products



					www.amazon.com
				









						Amazon.com : HP 12C Platinum Calculator : Electronics
					

Amazon.com : HP 12C Platinum Calculator : Electronics



					www.amazon.com
				






			https://www.amazon.com/HP-HP12CPLAT-12CP-Financial-Calculator/dp/B000FVNX2Q/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=rpn+calculator&qid=1628460237&sr=8-13


----------



## Winegrower

Even better than buying, my longest time friend gave me this immense Jacobs 20N chuck, holds up to 1”.   It’s on an MT3 taper for the lathe tailstock.

For comparison, the little guy is a (can’t tell, either 1B or 7B) that my dad used in Hawaii during WW2.


----------



## Winegrower

I saw a Craigslist ad for a bunch of “Kwik-Switch” tool holders only a couple miles away so I had to go look.   No idea what these were, but the seller explained, he used them on his Bridgeport but is downsizing and sold the mill.   So, for a nominal price I took the box of them.   They are actually pretty cool, you really can change tools by hand, a quarter turn of a ring, click the holder comes out, feel with the new holder for a tang alignment (easy and wide tolerance) push up lightly, pop, it’s in place.  

But why is this any better than R8?    Well, it comes with an R8 adapter on the socket that goes in the spindle, so I can swap back and forth as needed, no long term decisions here.   For shorter people, you don’t need to reach up to the drawbar for tool changes, and let’s say you have a bolt circle where you have to position the table for each hole, spot drill, change to maybe a pilot drill, then change to finish drill, then maybe countersink, and perhaps chamfer.   I either position the table once with DRO and run through all the tools, or for each tool, visit each hole position.  And what makes this better is the Z height of each tool does not change, unlike R8 swaps.

A downside is it takes up more Z height by a couple inches, could hurt, but a Bridgeport has a pretty good working envelope.

The list prices of these parts are staggering new, and only frightening on eBay.   I ended up with maybe $4K list for $100.


----------



## Logan 400

My step daughter called and said she bought a tool box with a bunch of drawers full of tools she had no idea what they were and wanted me to come over and tell her what she had.
I did not take a picture of the boxes but one was an 8 drawer machinist box. The other two were 5 drawer storage boxes about 10 x 10.
She bought all three boxes with contents for $40.00
I offered her 100.00 for the contents after telling her there may be a few hundred dollars worth of tools there.
She shook my hand and said deal.
Here is what was in the box.


----------



## BGHansen

Christianstark said:


> Delivery guy brought this for the shop.


I just bought the same set of boxes in blue also!  They had the bottom in stock, had to pre-pay for the other two which should be in by the end of August.  Look for a twin of yours in 3 weeks.

Bruce


----------



## Larry$

Logan 400 said:


> She shook my hand and said deal.


You got teach her how to negotiate better. Should-a got a lot more out of you!


----------



## Larry$

BGHansen said:


> They had the bottom in stock


I've got the same bottom one in red. Nice cabinets. I wanted the narrow deeper drawer up higher. Easy enough to move up and move two small ones down. The bottom small one won't latch because the lock bar doesn't go that far. Not a big deal. If I had the space I'd get another one.


----------



## hman

Child abuse ... utter child abuse!


----------



## Logan 400

Not child abuse. She's 40 yrs old. Lol


----------



## erikmannie

After about a 4 year tool buying spree, I amassed a whopping $50K in debt. About 3 months ago, I put a freeze on buying.

Since then, I have been working 70 hours every week & sending an *extra* $700 every week toward this debt.

This will go on for about another 16 months, and then I’m going to save up cash for:

Huge Precision Matthews mill,

Two Miller 220V wire feed welders, and

One more welding cart + shielding gas cylinder

Then I am going to retire from buying tools, reduce my hours at work to more like 55 hours/week, and that will allow more time to enjoy the tools that I bought.


----------



## Brento

Well tonight i ordered a MT2-ER20 adaptor for my mill (again) but this time made sure the thread was 3/8 and not M10 like the other one. While i was at it i figured i should order my 5C collet block set and a MT2 5/8EM holder for my mill. Now i should be set for a while.


----------



## Boris Ludwig

Bought some more Rovi 5C expanding collets


----------



## westerner

erikmannie said:


> Then I am going to retire from buying tools,



Oh, that is funny right there! 

I myself will retire from MANY things before I retire from buying tools.
I suspect I am not alone on this site.....


----------



## erikmannie

westerner said:


> Oh, that is funny right there!
> 
> I myself will retire from MANY things before I retire from buying tools.
> I suspect I am not alone on this site.....



Well, I will still need 5C collet blocks, skinny & adjustable parallels, square & hex 5C collets, and a horizontal BANDSAW!

Today I refinanced $17.5K of 19.7% APR debt down to 15.1% APR. 

We have done that with 3 different loans so far. One $19.3K loan went from 35% APR all the way down to 7.5% APR.

I sure could have bought a lot of tools with what I have spent on interest. However, had I saved up & paid cash for tools it is probable that my wife would have diverted some of the funds to girlie stuff.


----------



## Larry$

erikmannie said:


> 35% APR


Ouch!


----------



## matthewsx

erikmannie said:


> After about a 4 year tool buying spree, I amassed a whopping $50K in debt. About 3 months ago, I put a freeze on buying.
> 
> Since then, I have been working 70 hours every week & sending an *extra* $700 every week toward this debt.
> 
> This will go on for about another 16 months, and then I’m going to save up cash for:
> 
> Huge Precision Matthews mill,
> 
> Two Miller 220V wire feed welders, and
> 
> One more welding cart + shielding gas cylinder
> 
> Then I am going to retire from buying tools, reduce my hours at work to more like 55 hours/week, and that will allow more time to enjoy the tools that I bought.


No one can accuse you of going part way into the hobby….

Would like to visit next time I’m up there visiting my friends if you have any time off work


John


----------



## hman

I found this on Craigslist today and bought it for $300.  It's Taiwanese and appears very lightly used.  



My only concern is that my mill has a power drawbar, which will not engage unless the spindle is all the way up.  But the right angle head requires the spindle to be down pretty far.  Note the "drawbar nut lengthener" on the right.  My plan (subject to whatever expertise anybody here has to offer) is to split the collar that clamps onto the mill spindle.  Then I can unscrew it from the gear box, attach the R8 drive shaft with the spindle up, then lower the spindle, attach the collar around it, and bolt the collar back onto the gear box.  Any opinions or advice?


----------



## Firstram

Could you even extend or change the drawbar with the power drawbar installed? To the uneducated, your solution seems like the only choice.


----------



## GreatOldOne

An old York 100A vise. 100mm / 4 inch with the swivel base.
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 Already in bits for a clean.


----------



## DAM 79

So here’s another EBay purchase that I made .I’ve been wanting a long travel dial indicator like this for awhile ,the travel is really smooth and in great shape just sucks it didn’t come with a case still at $65 bucks I didn’t think i did to bad


----------



## Steve-F

Very nice! Looks like a 2 " travel


----------



## hman

Firstram said:


> Could you even extend or change the drawbar with the power drawbar installed? To the uneducated, your solution seems like the only choice.


Yup.  Swapping out the drawbar was among the first things I'd considered.  Not only would I have to dismount the power drawbar head to do this, but also replace the original hex head drawbar.  This particular model of power drawbar came with and uses a splined drawbar nut.  On top of that (way on top!), my mill (PM 835S) is one of those Bridgeport semi-clones with a tall base under the knee.  The drawbar nut is around 7 feet above the floor, which is why I got the power drawbar in the first place.  I don't like working with heavy hardware that far above my head.  Shucks ... I even had to build a 10" high platform to stand on in order to operate the mill comfortably.

I'll wait a bit, just to let the ideas percolate, before splitting the spindle sleeve.  Luckily, I don't have an immediate need for the right angle head.  Bought it because it looked like a timely bargain and it would extend the capabilities of my mill.


----------



## DAM 79

Steve-F said:


> Very nice! Looks like a 2 " travel


Yes it is 2” travel there were no other bidders on this I kinda got lucky


----------



## Winegrower

The cheap ball turners on eBay were irresistible it seems.   It arrived today, pretty simple with lots of stuff left to the student.   Seeing what is there, I should have just made one.  So I am documenting what this thing is so you will know…and maybe suggest some good approaches to either salvaging this or starting over.

First, there is no bearing, just held together with a screw and oiled surfaces.  It actually is smooth with very little slop.  It’s not compatible with anything I know about, so there is a design project to mount this.   And where?  The thing seems too tall to sit on the top of the compound in place of the tool post, and too small to sit on the cross slide with the compound removed.   And it has about a 0.75“ radius capability, which is pretty tiny, likely.     The tool height is not adjustable, so that has to be designed in.   And then, getting the center of rotation exactly under the part to be turned gets the cross slide and compound quite close to the chuck…not good.

So here are some pictures of what’s there.   Thoughts are welcome.


----------



## davidcarmichael

hman said:


> Yup.  Swapping out the drawbar was among the first things I'd considered.  Not only would I have to dismount the power drawbar head to do this, but also replace the original hex head drawbar.  This particular model of power drawbar came with and uses a splined drawbar nut.  On top of that (way on top!), my mill (PM 835S) is one of those Bridgeport semi-clones with a tall base under the knee.  The drawbar nut is around 7 feet above the floor, which is why I got the power drawbar in the first place.  I don't like working with heavy hardware that far above my head.  Shucks ... I even had to build a 10" high platform to stand on in order to operate the mill comfortably.
> 
> I'll wait a bit, just to let the ideas percolate, before splitting the spindle sleeve.  Luckily, I don't have an immediate need for the right angle head.  Bought it because it looked like a timely bargain and it would extend the capabilities of my mill.


Try contacting PM, They have a power drawbar for your mill and from the looks of it there must be a splined extending drawbar as one of its parts.


----------



## Dhal22

erikmannie said:


> Well, I will still need 5C collet blocks, skinny & adjustable parallels, square & hex 5C collets, and a horizontal BANDSAW!
> 
> Today I refinanced $17.5K of 19.7% APR debt down to 15.1% APR.
> 
> We have done that with 3 different loans so far. One $19.3K loan went from 35% APR all the way down to 7.5% APR.
> 
> I sure could have bought a lot of tools with what I have spent on interest. However, had I saved up & paid cash for tools it is probable that my wife would have diverted some of the funds to girlie stuff.




Where in the world do you find 20%, 35% interest loans?


----------



## John O

Dhal22 said:


> Where in the world do you find 20%, 35% interest loans?


Apply for one from the god father


----------



## erikmannie

Dhal22 said:


> Where in the world do you find 20%, 35% interest loans?



The 35% APR was OneMain Financial & the 19.7% APR was a Chase Bank Amazon credit card. These are unsecured loans.


----------



## erikmannie

John O said:


> Apply for one from the god father



I had 3 of these, but I paid them off (always early). He only charged a flat 10%; after a year, pay it all back in one shot. No checks accepted. His max was $8K. 

These are loans that you *cannot* default on, or even pay back late. Very nice guy as long as you pay on time or early!


----------



## erikmannie

matthewsx said:


> No one can accuse you of going part way into the hobby….
> 
> Would like to visit next time I’m up there visiting my friends if you have any time off work
> 
> 
> John



Absolutely! I have off every other Sunday. My cell is (707)293-8973.


----------



## hman

davidcarmichael said:


> Try contacting PM, They have a power drawbar for your mill and from the looks of it there must be a splined extending drawbar as one of its parts.


I bought the power drawbar kit from PM when I bought the mill.  It works superbly as long as the spindle it at or within ~1/4" of the top.  

But installing the right angle head with the spindle sleeve in place requires the spindle to be several inches below the top position.

Even if I had a drawbar extension, mounting the right angle adapter would be complicated - dismount the power drawbar head, install the  drawbar extension, re-mount the drawbar head.  Removing the right angle adapter would be the reverse.  Way too much work to do, especially because it's a foot or two above head level.

If I can split the right angle head's spindle sleeve, I could simply attach the R8 shaft with the spindle all the way up, lower the spindle, then bolt on the sleeve.


----------



## wachuko




----------



## hman

Edge Technology has ENTIRELY too many tempting goodies!  Gotta work hard to avoid visiting their website


----------



## Nogoingback

Back in April I posted about replacing a very old Stanley compothane hammer that had fallen apart with another dead blow
hammer from Klein.  extropic was kind enough to point out that Stanley tools have a lifetime warranty, so I sent it in.
The customer service rep told me that they didn't have an equivalent hammer to send me, which seems strange since
their catalog is full of dead blow hammers, but in any case they sent this:




Not really similar to what I sent, but no matter, I can find a use for it and after all those years I'm not looking a gift horse in the mouth.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

__





						UNLIMITED Audiobooks and eBooks | All You Can Books | AllYouCanBooks.com
					






					www.allyoucanbooks.com


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Well, my attempt above wasn't very successful. Unless someone likes to read. . . But audio books are useful, modern music I would just as soon avoid and work in (relative) silence.

What I was trying for was a photo of a tapping head. On eBay, it was listed as a "t*u*pping" head. I don't think it's complete, but haven't fully unpackaged it yet. I don't need one, but the price was pretty good at <$30 plus shipping. The MT-2 input shaft has been cut down to a 1/2 inch straight shaft. I can use it in the big drill press. The premise of a tapping head is based on a planetary gear assembly, which is what I was really buying. If my idea doesn't pan out, I can always peddle it out as a nonworking tapping head.

.


----------



## Janderso

Larry$ said:


> I have a cheap set of Imperial center punches. I've re-ground the points on some of them, kind of soft. It would be handy to also have the metric set like you got. I work mostly in metric, do you also?


I learned these transfer punches are just to make a mark, then you come back with a proper center punch.
Those of us who learn the hard way, thought these sets were crap.
Always learning.......!!


----------



## Gaffer

Not machining related but most of you talk about your tractors. I bought a nice, used, orange B2620. It came with Kubota’s FEL and Land Pride’s box scraper and post hole digger, a Gearmore arena rotary spike with drag, and a heavy steel homemade weeding sled that rides on skids with 2 blades. The first blade buries into the soil 1” and the following blade at 2”, for a total of a 2” depth. And I fit all of into my buddies 12’ dump trailer!

I’ve rented tractors on a few occasions but bought this one to prep for building my retirement house on the  2-1/2 acre lot. I got to play with it for a few hours on my lot yesterday and am dig’n it. Next weekend, I plan to do a full service to it, Kubota’s recommended 800 hour service. It has 830 hours on it.


----------



## matthewsx

What I didn’t buy today….









						Vulcan Drilling Milling Machine - tools - by owner - sale
					

I have a Vulcan Drilling Milling Machine up for sale. It doesn't run. I tried replacing the starting motor capacitor, but to no avail. Didn't check the spools/spindles, but maybe that's the issue....



					sfbay.craigslist.org
				






Seller listed for $750 but broken, asked him if the spindle would turn and he said yes. Well, I went to look and when I popped the belt off bearings were very crunchy.

We got to within $25 of each other but I ultimately walked away, just too much work for the money. Fortunately I was able to visit with my friend in San Jose and also got six boxes of Pergo flooring free from his neighbor, so not a totally wasted trip.

John


----------



## hman

@Gaffer - "...and am dig’n it."  Pun intended, of course!


----------



## projectnut

Just an update on a previous post where I mentioned I purchased a new milling machine vise, and found a few micrometers at a favorite used machine tool dealer.  I finally got around to taking some pictures of the vise and micrometers.  All are just as I bought them, no cleanup or calibration yet.

I did take find a spec sheet on the vise, but the Chinese to English translation was so poor the measurements didn't mean anything.  Below is a post I made on another board quoting the spec sheet, then making some measurements I could understand.

"
I did find an inspection sheet in the box the vise came in. It might as well be written in Greek. The Chinese to English translation is sketchy to say the least. While the measurements look impressive it's a bit hard to tell exactly what they are measuring. In all there are 6 places being measured. The measurements are metric so I had to do a quick conversion.

Here is the text of each (inspection sheet) measurement. Hopefully it will make some sense to someone.

1. Vise body guide rail First Tone facing bottom plane parallelism. .02mm (.00078")
2. Fixed mouth of the Tongs surface and active mouth of the Tongs facing guide rail on plane vertically .05a
3. Guide rail first Tone facing bottom plane plane parallelism . 02mm (.00078")
4. Examination block first tone facing vise bottom surface parallelism .03mm (.0018")
5. Examination block first Tone facing foundation bottom plane parallelism. . 04mm (.00157")
6. On examination block plane gradient. .04mm (.00157")

Not understanding what the inspection sheet meant I did a few of my own measurements.

1. Parallelism of moving jaw to fixed jaw. .0002"
2. Squareness of fixed jaw to base. .0003" closer at the bottom
3. Squareness of moveable jaw to base. .0003" closer at the bottom
4. Height of fixed jaw. .001" high on right side
5. Height of moveable jaw. .001" high on right side
6. Pull down of moveable jaw when tightened against 1.250 diameter round stock. .0002"
7. Parallelism of base to table. .0005"

All measurements were made with the vise on the swivel as it came from the factory. The table and base were cleaned of debris as normally done when tramming a vise. No parts were disassembled for cleaning. The only cleaning done was to wipe the oil off the surfaces to be measured. I'm sure some of the tolerances can be tightened a bit with careful disassembly cleaning and meticulous reassembly. However I don't see any need to go through that process anytime in the near future. I rarely work in tenths, and doubt this machine was ever asked to. A far as I'm concerned the vise is as close as it needs to be for any work I'll ever use it for."

In the process I took some pictures of the new acquisitions along with a few drill chucks and a homemade hand tapper.  I usually take pictures of shop tools and tooling every couple years or so for insurance purposes.  We have a replacement cost rider so it's important to keep the pictured inventory up to date.


----------



## Brento

Bought these yesterday on my way home from a wedding. My wife spotted them for me. The trigger on the Eagle can is stiff so need to clean and maybe replace a spring?  The little guy just has a clogged nozzle.


----------



## BGHansen

Brento said:


> Bought these yesterday on my way home from a wedding. My wife spotted them for me. The trigger on the Eagle can is stiff so need to clean and maybe replace a spring?  The little guy just has a clogged nozzle.


Ironic that an oil can may need to be oiled.

Bruce


----------



## Aukai

Insert ACRA (same factory)on the name plate 9 x 50, in stock, just need to add all the accessories, box, and ship.
So Dave has a Bridgeport for sale again.....Shipping companies were not real responsive, and I got tired of dealing with them.


----------



## KyleG

A forged steel vise from Fireball tools. It's done a few odd jobs, and I'm happy with it so far. That steel sure looks skinny compared to a cast iron vise, but it does give more room for workholding. The stock jaws are pretty aggressive, so I 3D printed a set of soft jaws. At some point, I'll mill a set of smooth face steel jaws as well.


----------



## FOMOGO

Nothing worse than a clogged nozzle, I can testify to that. Mike



Brento said:


> The little guy just has a clogged nozzle.


----------



## aliva

Order these last week haven't used them yet. 3/4" shank for the lathe  and adjustable boring head. I might mill a flat on the shank for a more secure hold


----------



## jbobb1

Not new today, but only a week old.


----------



## Brento

What brand is that? Shes a beaut


----------



## jbobb1

Brento said:


> What brand is that? Shes a beaut


Extreme Tool


----------



## keeena

Janderso said:


> With all due respect, you suck.
> NICE!


Now you're really gonna hate me...   Sometimes you hit a lucky streak. These 2 items fell into my lap for next to nothing. Di-acro 24"FB and a J.F. Kidder Little Blacksmith notcher.




This bender needs a little TLC as well and could stand for a full set of fingers, but otherwise looks complete. I'll have one of these brakes on the chopping block at some point.


----------



## wachuko

Made a boo boo and trashed the dial test indicator that I had... luckily, it was a cheap one... So I bought another inexpensive one, you know, just in case ...


----------



## FOMOGO

Ordered this 7.5hp, inverter rated, Seimens electric motor from Amazon 6 weeks ago, when I saw it at what I thought was a way cheap price with free shipping $360. Checked the price a few days later, and it had gone up to $616.  Checked tracking and it said it had been shipped for several weeks, then after checking with the trucking co they said it was never received. Had Amazon reship it, and waited several more weeks. Finally the freight co called to arrange a date, and got it yesterday. It's an all aluminum housing, with a plastic end cover, and fan, and still weighs 137lbs. Some genius decided to ship it in a standard cardboard box, with no special packing material inside. When the driver showed it to me, he said he hadn't even wanted to bring it because of the condition. Had the wife on the phone to Amazon, and they said they would deduct 40%, so I decide to take it. Ended up getting it for $216. Should be a pretty easy fix. The Current plan is to use this on the big Niles 26" lathe, in conjunction with a 10hp Chinese VFD, and a modified T-5 transmission. Should give me pretty much infinite speed control, and plenty of power, and being a fully syncronized trans I should be able to power shift.  The lathe came with an ancient 1.5hp Century motor, and a very early three speed truck trans that had been adapted to it, from it's original line shaft configuration. Mike







	

		
			
		

		
	
 Mike


----------



## extropic

@FOMOGO 
I had a similar motor purchase from Amazon Warehouse some few years ago. That motor was light enough to be sent by UPS. Plain cardboard box arrived, plastered with "HEAVY" stickers, torn wide open and weighing about 3 pounds (quite a bit of bubble pack inside). I got a refund, somebody else got a free motor.


----------



## FOMOGO

This one, there wasn't much left of the box. Was hoping for free, but still came out pretty well. Mike


----------



## Gaffer

FOMOGO said:


> This one, there wasn't much left of the box. Was hoping for free, but still came out pretty well. Mike


It's a bummer, but a great score too - LOL.


----------



## Nogoingback

keeena said:


> Now you're really gonna hate me...   Sometimes you hit a lucky streak. These 2 items fell into my lap for next to nothing. Di-acro 24"FB and a J.F. Kidder Little Blacksmith notcher.
> 
> View attachment 375677
> 
> 
> This bender needs a little TLC as well and could stand for a full set of fingers, but otherwise looks complete. I'll have one of these brakes on the chopping block at some point.


You're right: I do hate you...   Nice score.


----------



## GreatOldOne

A Milwaukee m12 fuel handheld bandsaw.



And a barely used Stahwille socket set.


----------



## Papa Charlie

I ordered a Pattern Makers Vice, made by Grizzly but sold through another source. If I actually get it, who knows these days, I will get it for $74.10 with free delivery, Grizzly sells them for $129 plus shipping and tax. Saw these on a YouTube channel where they were being used for gun vices. Been wanting something like this but most of the specific gun vices are too large. 

The jaws are wood with a protective polymer. Should work very nicely from what I have seen. Hope it comes through.


----------



## Superburban

FOMOGO said:


> This one, there wasn't much left of the box. Was hoping for free, but still came out pretty well. Mike


I'm sure there is someone in Denver with one hell of a tool collection. I have received many empty or half full boxes from all three of the main carriers. The common point is Denver.


----------



## pontiac428

Well, I was squaring up a vise in my mill the other day, and had my indicator chucked into a collet.  When I was done, I popped out the collet and indicator setup and took a step toward my tool chest to put it away.  At the same time, I pulled the indicator rod out of the collet and the indicator flew off the end, landing butter side down, bending the stylus.  Murphy was already watching, so I was not surprised when the stylus broke off in my hand as soon as I tried to straighten in out.  I figured, hey, if I'm going to drop and break my indicator, I may as well replace it with a more expensive one!  That's home shop logic right there.


----------



## Steve-F

Been there , done that ! Spun 1 at 2000 rpm in a Fadal once....very humbling


----------



## C-Bag

All the talk of guys trying to find decent quality taps and me being happy I got mine back in the 80’s jinxed me. I broke a 1/4-20 tap from my Bluepoint set. Since there is nothing worth buying in local hardware it was off to eBay. And as usual it feels like shopping in a hostile carnival with everybody trying to scam you. I went page after page, stupid deal after another almost ready to give up and then bam! You betcha!

12 NOS 1/4-20 GTD(Greenfield tap and die) plug taps in the original box from ‘02. $26.95 w/free shipping. Way more 1/4-20’s than I will ever need but I was seeing single GTD’s going for $18 w/shipping! 




sometimes persistence pays off. Guy even sent priority and they got here in 2 days.


----------



## rabler

Going to try this Tegara vice on my Grizzly mill, and move the HHIP vice to standby for the K&T #3 vertical.
The HHIP is a poor excuse for a vice, but it got me started.


----------



## Janderso

Aukai said:


> Insert ACRA (same factory)on the name plate 9 x 50, in stock, just need to add all the accessories, box, and ship.
> So Dave has a Bridgeport for sale again.....Shipping companies were not real responsive, and I got tired of dealing with them.
> View attachment 375527


I didn't know they were the same??
I have a SHARP TMV 10x50 mill. It's a 3HP, 3,300# beast and I love it.


----------



## Janderso

FOMOGO said:


> Ordered this 7.5hp, inverter rated, Seimens electric motor from Amazon 6 weeks ago, when I saw it at what I thought was a way cheap price with free shipping $360. Checked the price a few days later, and it had gone up to $616.  Checked tracking and it said it had been shipped for several weeks, then after checking with the trucking co they said it was never received. Had Amazon reship it, and waited several more weeks. Finally the freight co called to arrange a date, and got it yesterday. It's an all aluminum housing, with a plastic end cover, and fan, and still weighs 137lbs. Some genius decided to ship it in a standard cardboard box, with no special packing material inside. When the driver showed it to me, he said he hadn't even wanted to bring it because of the condition. Had the wife on the phone to Amazon, and they said they would deduct 40%, so I decide to take it. Ended up getting it for $216. Should be a pretty easy fix. The Current plan is to use this on the big Niles 26" lathe, in conjunction with a 10hp Chinese VFD, and a modified T-5 transmission. Should give me pretty much infinite speed control, and plenty of power, and being a fully syncronized trans I should be able to power shift.  The lathe came with an ancient 1.5hp Century motor, and a very early three speed truck trans that had been adapted to it, from it's original line shaft configuration. Mike
> 
> 
> View attachment 375688
> View attachment 375689
> View attachment 375691
> View attachment 375692
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mike


We need to work something out Mike.
I have this IR motor off a 2 year old air compressor.
I hope you can see the plate.
It's 10HP. 220 3 phase.
If you were close by, you would have a motor.


----------



## Aukai

I think the SHARP must have heavier castings, the ACRA is 2500lbs


----------



## FOMOGO

Appreciate the offer Jeff, but this one should do me, and I really wanted the inverter rated feature, though probably not really nesseccary. Probably a good thing I'm not in Cali, or I would have even more stuff than I have now. Cheers, Mike


----------



## Superburban

Picked up a stainless collet rack.

Its actually a jalapeno roasting rack, but it will work great for my collets, just not sure If I will use it for ER40, or the C8, looks like it will work great for either.


----------



## Aukai

Jeff I see that your sharp is a 10 x 50, the SHARP, and ACRA 9 x 50s are with in 100lbs of each other, still probably casting differences, but I'm not sure.


----------



## hman

Repurposing a jalapeno roasting rack - what a hot idea!


----------



## wachuko

Got an inexpensive 5/8" Quick Action Scissor Type Knurling Tool

and a HSS woodruff key cutter set... 




And almost pulled the trigger on a Shrum Solutions Tri Fly face mill....  will wait until I get the mill back together before I get this...


----------



## wachuko

GreatOldOne said:


> A Milwaukee m12 fuel handheld bandsaw.
> View attachment 375757
> 
> 
> And a barely used Stahwille socket set.
> View attachment 375758
> View attachment 375759



I need a bandsaw... I missed the special Grizzly had on their G0926 - 4" x 5-1/2" Variable-Speed Metal-Cutting Bandsaw... At  389.95 I would have jumped on it, but not at their regular 550.00 price now... this was during their Summer Sale a few weeks back... I will wait for another special...

Is the one you got the only bandsaw you use or do you have one with a stand?  I have never considered a handheld electric bandsaw...


----------



## wachuko

Got a few things when the wife was not looking:

3"x12"x18" Black Granite Surface Plate, Grade A, Ledge 0




Accusize Industrial Tools 10 Pcs Precision Angle Block Set



0-6” Digital Height Gauge - I know this is a cheap one.... and will have to do a lot of work to make sure the base is flat and whatnot, but just wanted to play and learn.  Later I can buy the real thing...




Anytime Tools 5 Center Drill Countersink Lathe Bit Mill Tooling Set - funny story on this one... this is my second set.  You see, I did not know the center drill bits were just for that, center drill and nothing more.  Ruined them using them as normal drill bits... So much to learn, so much to learn...


----------



## matthewsx

Picked up a few drill bits, boring head and some scrapers.


----------



## extropic

matthewsx said:


> Picked up a few drill bits, boring head and some scrapers.


Your picture won't display for me.


----------



## mmcmdl

matthewsx said:


> Picked up a few drill bits, boring head and some scrapers.


That looks to be an Enco boring/facing head Matt !  I sold one awhile back and kept the Wahlhaupter .


----------



## mmcmdl

Aukai said:


> So Dave has a Bridgeport for sale again...


Who ? Me ?  I'm in no hurry , it'll leave when it leaves .


----------



## mmcmdl

Gaffer said:


> Not machining related but most of you talk about your tractors. I bought a nice, used, orange B2620.


I had the B7610 and now I have the B7510 and love the thing . I still have less than 400 hrs. on the thing and use it just about everyday . I went out and bought all the attachments for the tractor over the years . 60 inch undermount mower deck , grader box , rake , post hole digger , 3 pt. stump grinder etc . I would suggest to you to put teeth on the bucket if you plan on doing any kind of digging . Best money I've ever spent .   Gotta love the Bota's !


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Superburban said:


> Picked up a stainless collet rack.
> 
> Its actually a jalapeno roasting rack, but it will work great for my collets, just not sure If I will use it for ER40, or the C8, looks like it will work great for either.
> 
> View attachment 375817
> View attachment 375818



what a great idea! what size are the holes? Trying to figure out if it'll work with my ER32 collets. The racks aren't much money on Amazon..


----------



## matthewsx

mmcmdl said:


> That looks to be an Enco boring/facing head Matt !  I sold one awhile back and kept the Wahlhaupter .


It’s a French made Enco. Don’t even have a mill yet but I couldn’t pass it up. The whole haul was $250, got it from the same guy that I got the jacobs flex collet chuck.


----------



## Janderso

Aukai said:


> Jeff I see that your sharp is a 10 x 50, the SHARP, and ACRA 9 x 50s are with in 100lbs of each other, still probably casting differences, but I'm not sure.


Mine is mid 70's, made in Taiwan.


----------



## matthewsx

extropic said:


> Your picture won't display for me.


----------



## devils4ever

I bought some left hand drill bits just in case I need them. I got 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" sizes.


----------



## projectnut

C-Bag said:


> All the talk of guys trying to find decent quality taps and me being happy I got mine back in the 80’s jinxed me. I broke a 1/4-20 tap from my Bluepoint set. Since there is nothing worth buying in local hardware it was off to eBay. And as usual it feels like shopping in a hostile carnival with everybody trying to scam you. I went page after page, stupid deal after another almost ready to give up and then bam! You betcha!
> 
> 12 NOS 1/4-20 GTD(Greenfield tap and die) plug taps in the original box from ‘02. $26.95 w/free shipping. Way more 1/4-20’s than I will ever need but I was seeing single GTD’s going for $18 w/shipping!
> 
> sometimes persistence pays off. Guy even sent priority and they got here in 2 days.



For some reason prices on eBay for taps and dies have gone through the roof lately.  Last year I decided to replenish my stock so I went to some of my saved sellers on eBay.  In total I bought about 200 taps of various sizes and thread pitches.  Prices for small taps (0-80 - 1/2-13) were between $2.50 and $3.00 each when buying by the box.  Sizes between 1/2-13 and 3/4-10 were between $8.00 and $12.00 when purchased by the box.  These were all name brand HSS taps.  The brands included names like Morse, GDT, YG1, WIDA, Triumph, Regal, and Union Butterfield.  I stay away from the hardware store brands like Vermont, Irwin Hanson, Drill Hog, and anything made in China.  While any of the later mentioned brands might have a good product from time to time they have relatively little quality control.  I'm not willing to take the chance they're within the stated specs or made from the best grade materials. 

There are still a few vendors offering somewhat similar prices by the box, but if you look for anything less than by the box the prices are outrageous.  I see some sellers asking more for an individual item than others are asking for a complete box of the exact same taps.  There are some that are asking more for their taps than they sell for at retail suppliers like McMaster and MSC,  I try to stick with vendors that buy out surplus stock or from places going out of business.  They sell in volume and seem to have higher quality offerings and more reasonable prices


----------



## GreatOldOne

wachuko said:


> I need a bandsaw... I missed the special Grizzly had on their G0926 - 4" x 5-1/2" Variable-Speed Metal-Cutting Bandsaw... At  389.95 I would have jumped on it, but not at their regular 550.00 price now... this was during their Summer Sale a few weeks back... I will wait for another special...
> 
> Is the one you got the only bandsaw you use or do you have one with a stand?  I have never considered a handheld electric bandsaw...


I do have a bandsaw, but it’s not on a stand. 
	

		
			
		

		
	



I don’t have space for anything bigger. My workshop is tiny.


	

		
			
		

		
	
Thats it in all its glory - 8’ x 8’ 

the little Milwaukee bandsaw is pretty much going to be used instead of a hacksaw… for the small or awkward bits that won’t fit or clamp in the ‘big’ saw. I’m a lazy sod.


----------



## hman

devils4ever said:


> I bought some left hand drill bits just in case I need them. I got 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" sizes.


They're absolutely vital when you need a clearance hole for a left hand threaded screw.


----------



## BGHansen

I got the bottom box a couple of weeks ago.  Top and side box came in today.  This one is a 44" main box with a 14 1/2" side box.  Now to start moving stuff over and re-labeling all of the drawers.

Bruce


----------



## wachuko

This will be the last order for the year (unless the lathe arrives this year)...

I want to build Harold Hall Advanced Grinding Rest... 




so ordered the following:

Milling for Home Machinists by Harold Hall - call me old school... I like the feel of books in my hand over a pdf... I do read the pdf on the computer since I am in front of the computer for over 12 hours a day... and as I type this, I am also going over the pdf for Workshop Practices Series #35 and looking also at that photo, realizing that I will need a lathe to finish this one... So I guess I will be making the Simpler Rest first... sigh...

A kit with an assortment of resistors... for the CNC conversion on the Mill... turns out that I can't find the first box I ordered... goodness! I only need a few 220 ohms resistors, but this way I can loose the box again when I need some more 

A 60 Degree Indexable Dovetail Cutter, 2 Flute, 3/4" Cutting Diameter, 3/8" Shank with a few spare carbide inserts.

Accusize Industrial Tools Indexable End Mill with 3 Pcs Tpg32 Carbide Inserts, 2'' Cutting Diameter, 3/4'' Straight Shank with some spare carbide inserts

I wanted a set of machinist parallel clamps... just because... to look at them, to touch them, to see myself making them in the future... Yeah, eventually I want to make a set... So got some inexpensive 1-1/2" Grizzly Industrial T10079 - Machinist/Toolmakers Parallel Clamps





That is it for this year... unless I need something else to finish the CNC conversion for my G0704...


----------



## wachuko

GreatOldOne said:


> I do have a bandsaw, but it’s not on a stand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 375999
> 
> I don’t have space for anything bigger. My workshop is tiny.
> View attachment 376000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats it in all its glory - 8’ x 8’
> 
> the little Milwaukee bandsaw is pretty much going to be used instead of a hacksaw… for the small or awkward bits that won’t fit or clamp in the ‘big’ saw. I’m a lazy sod.


That is one cool shop.  Great job maximizing available space!!  Shows me that there is really no excuse, space wise, to do this... Thank you for sharing!


----------



## wachuko

You know... there is really no need to encourage me guys... You are a bad influence, in a good way of course. 

Ordered two kits from Doug, to get me started when the time comes...

Pair 3" Machinist Clamps Complete Kit

Toolmaker's Clamp Kit

I will make sure to get some additional stock from the local supplier to be ready to recover from the mistakes, hahahahahaha...  Can't wait!


----------



## BROCKWOOD

Well I got a good deal off ebay on a B&S 624 Surface Planer Gauge & Bubble Level. It needed a good cleaning & I was running low on Metal Rescue (AKA Evaporust), so I also bought 3 gallons & a bucket. That stuff is getting expensive.


----------



## GreatOldOne

A set of Facom Allen / hex keys. Purchased, but not yet delivered - so nicked the picture from the vendor’s site.


----------



## wachuko

Surface table arrived yesterday (3"x12"x18")... I underestimated the weight and how difficult it would be to move this around...   There is really no putting this away and taking it out when needed.  I will have to place it on a table with wheels to move it around.








Maybe a great opportunity to get a small roller tool cabinet, place this on top, and store most of the tools for the mill and lathe in there.


----------



## pontiac428

wachuko said:


> Maybe a great opportunity to get a small roller tool cabinet, place this on top, and store most of the tools for the mill and lathe in there.


This is indeed the proper way!


----------



## GreatOldOne

Or you could get some of these 





						Select Hardware Extendable Appliance Furniture Rollers, Max Load 545kg, Adjustable Length 40-63.5cm, (Pack of 2) White : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
					

Shop Select Hardware Extendable Appliance Furniture Rollers, Max Load 545kg, Adjustable Length 40-63.5cm, (Pack of 2) White. Free delivery on eligible orders of £20 or more.



					www.amazon.co.uk
				




I got some and put them under my plate, and roll it out of the way into the far corner of my bench when not in use. I cover it with a mat, and my spare batteries and what nots usually collect on it.


----------



## projectnut

wachuko said:


> Surface table arrived yesterday (3"x12"x18")... I underestimated the weight and how difficult it would be to move this around...   There is really no putting this away and taking it out when needed.  I will have to place it on a table with wheels to move it around.
> Maybe a great opportunity to get a small roller tool cabinet, place this on top, and store most of the tools for the mill and lathe in there.


As you've recently found out surface plates are heavy.  A few years ago I purchased a 24"x 36" Challenge brand cast iron plate that originally belonged to the company I worked for.  I didn't realize how heavy it was until I loaded it in my truck.  I found out the hard way it weighed 475 lbs.  It was all I could do to get it in the back of the truck.  

Unloading it was another "Eat Your Wheaties " exercise.  A friend and I carried it from the truck, through the kitchen, and down the stairs to the shop.  It was all brute strength since there was no room for a dolly around the island in the kitchen.  We barely got it to the bottom of the stairs before we ran out of strength.  It sat on it's edge for about half an hour while we collected our wits and got the stand down to the shop.  

The final move was to lift it onto the stand.  It took all we could do, and we were sweating bullets to get it positioned before it fell on one of us.  Fortunately the stand has wheels so we could eventually roll it into place next to one of the lathes.  I made a thin plywood cover for it to keep it from getting damaged when not in use.  

I do use it a few times a month, but at my age it's hard to just pull it into the middle of the room.  I can't imagine carrying it down there a second time, and have no idea how it will be moved if we sell the house.  I do know if we move the shop will be a separate building or a minimum of a dedicated room on ground  level.


----------



## pontiac428

I reckon getting the iron surface plate out of your basement is going to go something like this:


----------



## wachuko

GreatOldOne said:


> Or you could get some of these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Select Hardware Extendable Appliance Furniture Rollers, Max Load 545kg, Adjustable Length 40-63.5cm, (Pack of 2) White : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
> 
> 
> Shop Select Hardware Extendable Appliance Furniture Rollers, Max Load 545kg, Adjustable Length 40-63.5cm, (Pack of 2) White. Free delivery on eligible orders of £20 or more.
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.co.uk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got some and put them under my plate, and roll it out of the way into the far corner of my bench when not in use. I cover it with a mat, and my spare batteries and what nots usually collect on it.


I only currently have one bench at this time and it is a do-it-all bench... so I do not feel comfortable placing it there..  If I had another bench, then yeah...

I do need a rolling tool box anyway, so this is just the final push to get me to buy one.  It will need to be the smallest I can find to avoid filling it with too much stuff and them becoming a fixed box due to the weight.


----------



## jwmay

Well I'm not sure that "today" is when I bought it. But I'm the cautiously optimistic new owner of a Rockwell Vertical miller. This purchase is pure speculation, as I've never even seen it in person. Wish me luck!


----------



## Weldingrod1

I love my Rockwell mill! It's a sweet HSM machine!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## jwmay

Weldingrod1 said:


> I love my Rockwell mill! It's a sweet HSM machine


Well I'm certainly hoping there's nothing broken and it'll just be a simple cleaning and oiling job. But I also know that I haven't ever been quite that lucky before. Time will tell!


----------



## matthewsx

Showed up yesterday.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

The other day I was bombarded with Husky toolbox overstock sales from Home Depot, Lowes, Harbor Freight etc. This got me thinking. Hey, $87 for a 400 pound toolbox makes you think - but I had to pull out of any commitment. $13 for shipping! Lately, all my efforts lean toward organization. It's a challenge when working out of a 2 car garage. So, I bought 3 little Wards 4 drawer boxes instead & placed them under my Kennedy.


----------



## FOMOGO

It has energy efficient efficiency. Don't see how you can possibly go wrong.  Cheers, Mike



matthewsx said:


> Showed up yesterday.


----------



## Aaron_W

wachuko said:


> Surface table arrived yesterday (3"x12"x18")... I underestimated the weight and how difficult it would be to move this around...   There is really no putting this away and taking it out when needed.  I will have to place it on a table with wheels to move it around.
> 
> 
> View attachment 376286
> 
> 
> View attachment 376287
> 
> 
> Maybe a great opportunity to get a small roller tool cabinet, place this on top, and store most of the tools for the mill and lathe in there.



I put my 12x18" cast iron surface plate in a Harbor Freight 5 drawer cart. These have a top lid, so the surface plate is covered and you have a work top available when not using the surface plate. I also used one of the drawers for a 9x12" granite surface plate. 

  My cart of flatness
	

		
			
		

		
	






jwmay said:


> Well I'm not sure that "today" is when I bought it. But I'm the cautiously optimistic new owner of a Rockwell Vertical miller. This purchase is pure speculation, as I've never even seen it in person. Wish me luck!



Those are a nice size mill for a small shop, I have a Clausing mill that is about the same size. Hope it doesn't have any surprises.


----------



## Brento

560$ i spent on all of this.
10$ for a cast iron angle plate
30$ for the bore gage .75-1.5
20$ for a greenfield tap wrench no6 and lathe dogs
425$ for the Dake
20$ for the Pamco
5$ on the Enco mag base
10$ for the plastic endmill holder thing
40$ for for the little machinist box. Bonus was a MT2 reamer


----------



## wachuko

How are you guys finding these deals!!???  I can't find squat near me...


----------



## Brento

This haul was from my honey hole but they are trying to sell everything bc the guy passed away in December. There is a Lathe and Mill there in decent shape and a nice looking Drill press for 300$


----------



## rabler

mmcmdl said:


> I had the B7610 and now I have the B7510 and love the thing . I still have less than 400 hrs. on the thing and use it just about everyday . I went out and bought all the attachments for the tractor over the years . 60 inch undermount mower deck , grader box , rake , post hole digger , 3 pt. stump grinder etc . I would suggest to you to put teeth on the bucket if you plan on doing any kind of digging . Best money I've ever spent .   Gotta love the Bota's !


Had a 7610 for many years in Georgia.  It was used daily to pull a manure spreader through the barns.


----------



## Brento

If anyone is interested in the mill or lathe i will be back tmr i can get pictures and if it is not sold i can get you a number to call about them. Location is in NY just message me for interest


----------



## DAM 79

This looks kinda like the guy that I have purchased a bunch of my stuff from !!! And I’ll be going back up there in a few weeks and I’ll try to take some pictures of stuff he has to sell and actually it’s everything he has and he has the most that I have ever seen since I got into all of this anything from lathes to mills to surface grinders


----------



## mcostello

Went to an auction around here and the auction house had 1 guy sorting , stacking and making descriptions and a list for over a month. The Company is well known and local, They borrowed every farm trailer They could find (over 30) and still did not have enough. I waited over 2 hours for 1 line of trailers to sell and what I wanted was 1 1/2 line further away.  I had to give up as nowhere to sit and had a foot injury. 3 buildings still had more in it. Auctioneer said it would go over 1 million with several tractors and old road making equiptment. Just a small farm about 500' from a country road, You would never notice it driving by. Biggest private auction I have ever seen.


----------



## mmcmdl

rabler said:


> Had a 7610 for many years in Georgia. It was used daily to pull a manure spreader through the barns.


Had to put a fuel filter in the 7510 today . While there , I picked up the internal and outside air filters . $110 . But hey , I couldn't live without the Bota .


----------



## rabler

mmcmdl said:


> Had to put a fuel filter in the 7510 today . While there , I picked up the internal and outside air filters . $110 . But hey , I couldn't live without the Bota .


Unfortunately mine was cursed by a ham-handed mechanic on the original assembly.  They spent three days trying to get the lawn mower to fit without rubbing on the rear tires.  Turns out a couple days after I received it I checked the tires, they had over 50 PSI.  Alternator belt was too tight, burned out the alternator.  Cap left off the mower gear casing, so it died of dust/dirt.  Just a long list of issues, most of them that didn't show up until after the warranty expired.  Obviously I should have gone over the whole thing with a fine tooth comb after the tire issue, but when working long hours things slide.


----------



## mmcmdl




----------



## jwmay

wachuko said:


> How are you guys finding these deals!!???  I can't find squat near me...


I found mine on the internet.  I will apologize for not posting it in the forum, but they had only one Rockwell 21-100.  Here's a picture I snapped while waiting for load out. I really wish I'd have bought one of these SB 9's too!  Best part of it though was being able to see my Dads face when he saw the 36" shaper they had. I said remember that little Ammco I had? Here's what a "real" one looks like. Ha!


----------



## CootaStew

devils4ever said:


> I bought some left hand drill bits just in case I need them. I got 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" sizes.


Left hand drill bits can be very handy and sometimes they are all you need to get out that broken bolt.


----------



## Brento

Went back to the estate sale to pay what i owe and bought more stuff lol.

Bought the nice diamond grinder for 75$. I plan to buy a nice white stone as well so i can do hss


Bought the comparator table for the 5$ sticker the leather stuff in the bottle was free pretty much and the mag base is for a buddy of mine which was also 5$
	

		
			
		

		
	



I bought 10 MT2 drills at a 1$ a piece. Another bore gage at 25$. This one does 1.5-2.5. A box of gage pins and such i think was for 15$. Now inside that box there is a knurled handle cut at a MT2 taper. Any idea what that could be?  It is smooth. A box of 3" parallels for my 3" machinist vice for 10$ and a hand hack saw for i think 10$?



Last but not least i bought this little tool kit bc it was made in South Bend, Indiana and it was cute. Has a little crescent wrench. Screwdriver and a little hammer. The screwdriver and the hammer attach to the handle.



Edit: not pictured is also an Aloris Axa tool holder and a cheaper Axa tool holder.


----------



## WobblyHand

Received a 6mm carbide boring bar, from the Far East.  Not too impressed with it.  Already starting the eBay return process.  It's an inferior version to what was listed.   Sometimes the eBay game works, other times, not.  The steel holder part is longer, weaker and cruder than the original listing photos showed.


----------



## hman

@Brento - ya done good!


----------



## Brento

Thank ya. I will have to post a picture in a bit of the MT2 shank with the knurled handle. Idk what it is for


----------



## JRaut

Well, I think I've got an either/or situation here.

Which one should I keep? I'd like to sell one off to pay for the other.

1) Darex M5 drill sharpener. One diamond wheel is missing, which runs about $200.



2) A couple Mitutoyo blade micrometers, 0-1" and 1-2". I've been keeping an eye out for these; sometimes the anvils on the full-sizers are a bit big when I'm working on small parts.



I had originally intended to sell off the Darex because I've already got a Drill Doctor (the "Pro" model, 750x I think).

It sure is nice though...

Anyone have any opinions worth sharing?


----------



## Brento

I see now that it says a southern gage so i am guessing it is a gage to check a cut MT? Idk how you would use it though?


----------



## hman

You could apply some high-spot blue to the taper, insert it gently into the female taper, give it a twist, then remove and look for irregularities in how it's rubbed off.

-or-

Notice the groove near the large end of the taper.  When you insert it into a female taper, the groove should probably line up with the end of the arbor.


----------



## Brento

Gotcha ok. My favorite thing is its has center holes on both sides so i can also set up my angle.


----------



## projectnut

JRaut said:


> Well, I think I've got an either/or situation here.
> 
> Which one should I keep? I'd like to sell one off to pay for the other.
> 
> 1) Darex M5 drill sharpener. One diamond wheel is missing, which runs about $200.
> 
> 
> 2) A couple Mitutoyo blade micrometers, 0-1" and 1-2". I've been keeping an eye out for these; sometimes the anvils on the full-sizers are a bit big when I'm working on small parts.
> 
> *I had originally intended to sell off the Darex because I've already got a Drill Doctor (the "Pro" model, 750x I think).*
> 
> It sure is nice though...
> 
> Anyone have any opinions worth sharing?


If you have all the collets for the M5 for the range of drills you intend to sharpen i would keep it rather than the Drill Doctor.  The Drill Doctor is a hobby version of the M5.  As such it uses plastic collets, and the case of the machine is plastic.  I literally wore out a couple collets and the case on my "Classic 750" in 10 years.  I was able to find some new collets, but the machine case is worn and warped to the point it's a hassle to use.

The M5 is a lower end professional model that will outlast the Drill Doctor by many years.  It's much better built and uses materials that won't warp and wear under normal use.  A new wheel may cost $200.00 but in all likelihood it will last you a lifetime


----------



## JRaut

projectnut said:


> If you have all the collets for the M5 for the range of drills you intend to sharpen i would keep it rather than the Drill Doctor.  The Drill Doctor is a hobby version of the M5.  As such it uses plastic collets, and the case of the machine is plastic.  I literally wore out a couple collets and the case on my "Classic 750" in 10 years.  I was able to find some new collets, but the machine case is worn and warped to the point it's a hassle to use.
> 
> The M5 is a lower end professional model that will outlast the Drill Doctor by many years.  It's much better built and uses materials that won't warp and wear under normal use.  A new wheel may cost $200.00 but in all likelihood it will last you a lifetime


Good point re: the plastic collets/case of the Drill Doctor. Even brand new, I notice lots of flex in the case of mine when I'm sharpening bits; it's quite sensitive to how much/where I apply pressure when grinding.

The M5 does indeed have the appropriate collets: 2 collets ranging from about 1/16 to about 3/4" I think. If memory serves, that's the same range as the Drill Doctor.

The last hesitation I have is that I'm pretty limited in shop space. The Drill Doctor is nice because I just drag it out every few months to sharpen a batch of drills, then tuck it in a drawer when I'm done. While I probably _could _do the same with the Darex, I suspect it'll take up permanent residency on my already-cluttered workbench, as it's quite a bit larger and heavier.


----------



## projectnut

JRaut said:


> Good point re: the plastic collets/case of the Drill Doctor. Even brand new, I notice lots of flex in the case of mine when I'm sharpening bits; it's quite sensitive to how much/where I apply pressure when grinding.
> 
> The M5 does indeed have the appropriate collets: 2 collets ranging from about 1/16 to about 3/4" I think. If memory serves, that's the same range as the Drill Doctor.
> 
> The last hesitation I have is that I'm pretty limited in shop space. The Drill Doctor is nice because I just drag it out every few months to sharpen a batch of drills, then tuck it in a drawer when I'm done. While I probably _could _do the same with the Darex, I suspect it'll take up permanent residency on my already-cluttered workbench, as it's quite a bit larger and heavier.


You can always mount it on a pedestal, 4 legged machine stand or roll around cabinet and set it in the corner until needed.  As I recall the Darex we had in our shop at work was mounted  on a 1/2" plate and secured to a HD grinder style pedestal.  It sat in the corner until needed and was then slid from the wall for access.

My Black Diamond is on a roll around cabinet.  The 750 Drill Doctor is on a shelf inside the cabinet.  I still use the web thinning  feature since the Black Diamond didn't come with one.  The Drill Doctor is on the bottom shelf of the right hand picture

Here are a couple cheap stands from Harbor Freight that might work.  I have a grinder on a 4 legged one.  I put a weight on the lower shelf to keep it stable when pushing against the wheel.








						Universal Bench Grinder Stand
					

Amazing deals on this Universal Bench Grinder Stand at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




					harborfreight.com
				




This is closer to the style stand we had at the shop. 









						Bench Grinder Pedestal
					

Amazing deals on this Bench Grinder Pedestal  at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




					harborfreight.com
				




I'm not sure if the top plate is large enough for the drill grinder.  If you go with this style you may have to add a larger plate.


----------



## JRaut

Good idea, I've got a little spot in the corner where it could probably fit on a small stand.


----------



## wachuko

I like the pedestal stands small foot print... and easy to move around.  But I hate the instability of just using those bolts to tighten it up... I have two of those HF bench grinder pedestal units...   I am going to check the level and plan to just fill the empty space with JB-Weld...to make it a solid mount at the base.

I will look for something better next time.


----------



## pontiac428

I've been using the second HF stand to support my big vise that I use for welding work for the last 25 years. Only mod I did was weld the castings to the post. Works great. One could fill the lower part with weight, but the mass is always centered. It's not as solid as a plow disc, but it's pretty good considering its appearance.


			https://shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/6/8/68321_W4.jpg


----------



## wachuko

pontiac428 said:


> I've been using the second HF stand to support my big vise that I use for welding work for the last 25 years. Only mod I did was weld the castings to the post. Works great. One could fill the lower part with weight, but the mass is always centered. It's not as solid as a plow disc, but it's pretty good considering its appearance.
> 
> 
> https://shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/6/8/68321_W4.jpg


So you can weld the base!?  Well, easier than filling the gap with JB-Weld... Those are the two that I have... I will do the same.  Thank you!


----------



## wachuko

I bought a box of assorted Delrin stock, some 1-1/8" diamerter aluminum (7075 allow T651) rod, 5/8" copper round stock, assorted 12L14 steel rod stock, 12L14 Hexagon steel bar stock... 












Just some material to play with when the time comes...


----------



## wachuko

Wanted some brass...... so bought a few pieces...
2"x1.25"x1"


2"x1"x.625"


Round and Hexagon assortment 2" long... 1/2" and 5/8"


----------



## Brento

Id love to have those blocks


----------



## NCjeeper

I bought the surface grinder that Bill had for sale.


----------



## lordbeezer

Picked up a 20 dollar older belt sander today. Cast iron 1 hp motor. Planning on making it a upright sander.


----------



## sycle1

Its funny when you online shop for tool boxes and you think you have what you think is a great purchase and will do the job, everything looks good, then you go to an actual store and check them out and they are flimsy garbage boxes where the drawers only open halfway and if you breathe heavy the metal wilts.
Went in looking at one brand, came out with a totally different brand and ended up with
a really good tool chest/ trolley at a resonable price.
Took the picture near the mill for size comparison





Its a Trojan 16 drawer.
The drawers open out fully with rubber drawer liners, smooth ball bearing slides and click when they close.
The top lid has gas struts and easy open. compared this to the big name brand tool companies and this one won out over them for size price and functionality. it was $589 Aust size is 1520mm x 460 x 680 or 5 ft x18" x 26" 3/4.
Hopefully this should help me organize things a bit better.


----------



## GreatOldOne

A reilang oiler with aluminium pot. Needs attention to the spout, but working in all other regards. Needs a clean and then it’ll join my newer plastic bodied ones.




stahlwille open spanners (wrenches), 8-32mm. Ex ministry of defence. They’re all marked with NSNs


stahwille combo wrenches/ spanners. I may be coming down with a new Germanic addiction. I draw the line at lederhosen though.


----------



## wachuko

Note to self... double check before paying for the order... Ended up getting just one carbide insert instead of the two required... Oh well... placed an order for three more to have a spare set.


----------



## erikmannie

Aloris CXA #1. $88.59 delivered from All Industrial.


----------



## BGHansen

Couple of larger items added to the shop.  I have a 62nd birthday coming up shortly.  Picked up a 500 lbs. Harbor Freight lift table for an early present.




The other item has been setting in our foyer for over 3 months.  My wife and I celebrated our 30th anniversary in June.  She does a crafty Christmas ornament project for family every year.  Her plan this year is cutting shapes out of sheet silver, then filling in the areas cut out with powdered enamel which is then fired to melt it into glass.  Our anniversary present to each other was this DeWalt scroll saw.

Last year she used silver-bearing clay.  Set a paper pattern on top and mark the edges with a needle.  Then remov the "windows", fire the clay to melt the silver and clean up the edges with a diamond file.  I hate to think of the number of hours she has into each one of them.  Hopefully the sheet silver and Dewalt will save her some time!

Bruce







Wife's Christmas ornaments (in process) from last year.  Set the pattern on top of silver-bearing clay, mark the edges of the pattern with a pin and pull out the "windows".  Fire the clay in a furnace to melt the silver.  Then she filled in the windows with enamel powder and reheated them in the furnace for a stained-glass window look.


----------



## extropic

Bruce,

My hands are cramping just looking at the pictures of the ornaments. They are a fantastic amount of detailed work.

Are the completed clay ornaments very fragile? There is so much care and work going into them, I would like to think of them as durable family heirlooms.

Please post a picture of a completed one. 

Kudos to your wife.


----------



## BGHansen

extropic said:


> Bruce,
> 
> My hands are cramping just looking at the pictures of the ornaments. They are a fantastic amount of detailed work.
> 
> Are the completed clay ornaments very fragile? There is so much care and work going into them, I would like to think of them as durable family heirlooms.
> 
> Please post a picture of a completed one.
> 
> Kudos to your wife.


Here's a photo of one she's still working on from last year.  It'll be the one going on our tree, so no rush to get it done.  The finished artwork is in the bottom RH corner of the second photo.  I think she's going to use paint or nail polish to do the dots on the snowman's mouth and eyes.

I think the silver melts at around 1800 F, the enamel at around 1500-1600 F.  The silver doesn't go too badly though it is VERY tedious the way she does it.  The paper templates were first cut out leaving behind what looks like a doily.  After 30 years of marriage, I've learned to NOT tell her how to do something.  I have no idea why she cut out the paper patterns.  I'd have set them on the clay and poked holes through the paper into the clay.

The enameling is a ROYAL PITA.  I don't get too involved, but it looks like the enamel shrinks as it cools and pulls away from the silver.  She's continually trying to fill in holes with more of the powder, then hits small spots with a small torch.  She is persistent!  I'd probably go with an aluminum star cut on the CNC.

Bruce


Work in process.  Sorry for the crappy photo.  I think she has a decent one of the batch from last Christmas hanging on a window with good back lighting.


----------



## Dhal22

Grabbed a box of tools and parts on eBay.   Buy it now for $89, free shipping.   I'll sort through later and look at the misc pieces.


----------



## hman

Wowsers!  Ya done committed highway robbery!  Suckage is definitely indicated.


----------



## Janderso

Went to the antiques place with my wife before lunch.
I found a couple items worth $10.


----------



## Brento

Great score. I still have a very sticky trigger on my eagle can that i bought. I think its been heavily used and worn out. My only other though is is there a bushing between the plunger and trigger mechanism.


----------



## woodchucker

Brento said:


> Great score. I still have a very sticky trigger on my eagle can that i bought. I think its been heavily used and worn out. My only other though is is there a bushing between the plunger and trigger mechanism.


did you clean it with mineral spirits?
sometimes its just gummy from dirt in the oil.


----------



## Janderso

Brento said:


> Great score. I still have a very sticky trigger on my eagle can that i bought. I think its been heavily used and worn out. My only other though is is there a bushing between the plunger and trigger mechanism.


Let us know if woodchuckers idea works


----------



## Brento

Yea i cleaned the whole can and took apart everything. The trigger mechanism connects to the plunger with like a keyway cut like a dovetail and seem like there is significant play between the two parts. I tried putting a small o-ring on for a tighter fit but it still wobbles and i think is causing the lock up.


----------



## wachuko

I was not aware that there was such a thing as a lathe file... Well, found that out and ordered one... arrived today with a few other things.

Bahco 1-104-10-3-0 Smooth Cut Lathe File, 10-Inch

Needed an all around ruler in 6" and 12"... the ones I had disappeared in my son's room... and also got a digital angle gauge...


----------



## Firstram

Those digital angle cubes are incredibly handy. I bought mine for my vertical tube bender but it seems like I'm always reaching for it for other things.


----------



## hman

The Wixey is a very nice angle gauge.  Have one.  Now I need to get the file!


----------



## pontiac428

I compared the electronic angle gauge to everything I had for setting angles back when I got it, and it was on the money every time at 1 deg of resolution.  Soon I began to trust it for setting pinion angles and welding up axle linkages.  Everything drives straight.  That's a pretty big endorsement from me.  Does the job of bob, string, and protractor very well, all on a handy magnetic base!


----------



## sycle1

Ditto on The Wixey, A great little unit couldn't do without it now.


----------



## Gliden07

Just got this from my Dad. Bought it years ago at an auction. It needs some work but the motor works. Someone screwed up the table so I'm going to bring it to someone with a larger mill to have it resurfaced.


----------



## francist

Wow, that must have taken some effort. Bit more than just a light dusting to true it up, eh?


----------



## Gliden07

Yeah they really ran that poor little Stone deep into the table! I need to get a small mag chuck for it though.


----------



## GoceKU

A trip to the tool/flea market, first thing i found was this hand winch, it's very slow but it's all steel and looks to be strong its was only 5$. Next was a 13mm and 10mm wrench and a long set of feeler gauges 6$ for both. Then i bought me this cheap china kitchen scale i've been needing one for measuring refrigerant oil it was 3$. The big buy of the day come next, i bought me one more impact set of sockets i already have the same set and they have hold up very well so i bought this one for the small garage also the price was right 30$. Not a bad trip, i miss going to the tool/ flea market.


----------



## woodchucker

@GoceKU  why you going to miss the flea market, they closing? you moving?


----------



## Firstram

Interesting that it comes with a breaker bar.


----------



## GoceKU

woodchucker said:


> @GoceKU why you going to miss the flea market, they closing? you moving?


I've been busy, too many things to do in a day.


----------



## Janderso

Gliden07 said:


> Just got this from my Dad. Bought it years ago at an auction. It needs some work but the motor works. Someone screwed up the table so I'm going to bring it to someone with a larger mill to have it resurfaced.


Holy cow. I didn't know they allowed blind machinists to work in the trade.
Don't you just wonder what went on there??
You're gonna mill it?
That will get you in the .001-.003" range if you get lucky. You plan on scraping the rest?
I'm not trying to be a smart $%^& or anything, I'm curious of your plan.
Not an easy task.


----------



## Gliden07

Janderso said:


> Holy cow. I didn't know they allowed blind machinists to work in the trade.
> Don't you just wonder what went on there??
> You're gonna mill it?
> That will get you in the .001-.003" range if you get lucky. You plan on scraping the rest?
> I'm not trying to be a smart $%^& or anything, I'm curious of your plan.
> Not an easy task.


I'm going to have a friend mill it on his Bridgeport my Grizzly G0704 isn't big enough to do it. Then I plan on buying the appropriate sized mag chuck, put a dial indicator on the face of the mag chuck and shim it as close to flat as I can (side to side and front to back) then get a new stone and surface the mag chuck.


----------



## Weldingrod1

If you mill it flat and then cut it a few thou deeper anywhere you can't hot with the wheel you can have the best of both worlds ;-)
Just dont go nuts on the hold down bolts!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## JRaut

I've been on the hunt for one of these Huot Master Drill Dispenser (No. 13175); it holds at least a dozen drills each of fractional, wire, and letter size in a pretty compact form factor, and also has an extra storage drawer at the bottom.








						Master Drill Dispenser U.S. Sizes - Huot Manufacturing
					

for jobbers length drills, fractional, letter and wire gauge sizes plus extra drawer




					www.huot.com
				




Virtually nothing in my shop is new, so I've been on the lookout for a decent deal on a used one in decent condition. I'd almost given up hope on and bit the bullet to buy a new one for around $500-$600.

But just in time, I found one about a 5-hr drive away and just couldn't pass it up. Paid about the same price as a new one would cost, but it came CHOCK FULL of drill bits. The cabinet is in EXCELLENT condition, with just a few scratches on the top. Seems the prior owner filled it up and let it sit over in the corner.


----------



## hman

Major suckage!  Congratulations on your score.


----------



## sycle1

Nice score and huge suckage!


----------



## Brento

Real nice grab. I kinda want a huot box just so i can store my endmills bc of the amount i have. I keep trying to think of a better way to store them.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

Brento said:


> Real nice grab. I kinda want a huot box just so i can store my endmills bc of the amount i have. I keep trying to think of a better way to store them.


Yeah JRaut done good. I've also lusted over the big boxes seen in the background of Kieth R & Abom videos!


----------



## Christianstark

Getting ready for my new arrivals. Going to need to lift a PM-1340GT, and a PM.833TV.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stop by the flea/ tool market to buy me some tools. First couple of rows had nothing but cheap china tools, but then i found those, 90 degrees grab wrenches, 7$ for both, one for each garage. Then i came across this assortment of depinning tools bought them for 2,5$. Then i did lots more walking and found me couple of wrenches, i paid 5,5$ for all 3 of them. Then i found and bought me a set allen, torque and triple square set for 15$, my old set has many broken bits so it's cheaper just to get a complete set. Last thing i found was two MT5 heavy duty live centres for my lathe, both have worn tips, one is chipped but bearings feel perfect and the taper is in good shape, i paid 16$ for both and i plan to take them apart and repair the noses.


----------



## CootaStew

wachuko said:


> I was not aware that there was such a thing as a lathe file... Well, found that out and ordered one... arrived today with a few other things.
> 
> Bahco 1-104-10-3-0 Smooth Cut Lathe File, 10-Inch
> 
> Needed an all around ruler in 6" and 12"... the ones I had disappeared in my son's room... and also got a digital angle gauge...
> 
> View attachment 377626


Lathe files are actually a lot safer to use on a lathe than an ordinary file, because there's a lot less chance (if any actually) of the file being pushed back at you.


----------



## hman

A good day at the flea market!


----------



## Philzy

Ordered a Starrett 196B1 plunger back indicator.  I’m new to machining but I’ve developed an unhealthy addiction to dial indicators.  

Hi. I’m Phil and I’m a dial-aholic.


----------



## BGHansen

BGHansen said:


> Work in process.  Sorry for the crappy photo.  I think she has a decent one of the batch from last Christmas hanging on a window with good back lighting.


Here's a photo of the ornaments she handed out last year.

Bruce


----------



## NCjeeper

Philzy said:


> Ordered a Starrett 196B1 plunger back indicator.  I’m new to machining but I’ve developed an unhealthy addiction to dial indicators.
> 
> Hi. I’m Phil and I’m a dial-aholic.


Oh it gets worse believe me.


----------



## Aukai

$65.00 delivered....


----------



## Brento

Now we understand why you asked the question lol.


----------



## Aukai

95.00 delivered, I'll start looking for the 2-3" now


----------



## Brento

Those analog mics are nice.


----------



## Larry$

Aukai said:


> $65.00 delivered....


I've got a similar Mitutoyo caliper  that I've had for 10+ years. There are some differences visually. Interesting that the company name is in a different font than all the rest of their tools.


----------



## Aukai

Things that make you go hummmm.


----------



## lordbeezer

Have chance to buy microlux mini mill drill. Doesn’t appear to have been used much. Small vise and drill chuck comes with. I have to make offer type deal


----------



## mattthemuppet2

bought a 5" 6 jaw Buck chuck off PM for a very reasonable price for my SB9, but it only had inside jaws. While I was looking for some outside jaws on eBay I found another 5" 6 jaw, unlabelled and poorly described but with outside jaws, which I also got for a very reasonable price  Both needed work (and the one off PM needed the pinion repairing), but I now 2 6 jaw chucks and won't need to swap the jaws out  Total was ~$270 for both. Just need to make a backplate for the one with outside jaws


----------



## Toolmaker51

Very innocent purchase, but it was yesterday...delay due to a bit of recovery from shock. 
I bought a simple machine tool ID tag, from a Monarch 10-EE.


Imagine my surprise finding _an entire lathe attached therein, at NO extra charge!. 


_
So, in averting negative feedback, completed purchase that included not only start-up tooling but considerable help with loading. 
Only then, revealed my long quest, for a toolroom quality lathe. The tooling is usable, some elements not my preference. Can remedy that as time rolls along. Most significant feature is that lowest rod along the bed; it activates a carriage reverse mechanism, such as desirable when threading.
This conversion to solid state DC drive (but still 5hp) by inverter has been professionally examined and has no issues. There are people that  replace DC with AC/ VFD and are mostly disappointed, especially at low speeds, not strong point of alternating current.



Will live among American Pacemaker 16", Logan bar fed turret lathe, and a seemingly rare South Bend with taper attachment. 
Let the rude but good nature comments ensue, I'm surrounded by cast iron!


----------



## Toolmaker51

re Thread Wires; drape a clean rag over the ways, under where you intend to measure. Also, wires can be managed more easily sticking them in a 'card' of thin Styrofoam, arranged as you would otherwise. Nice benefit is you can set them down; it'll perch just fine while you take successive cuts.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Awesome lathe! I bet you found the tag a lot harder to pick up than you thought


----------



## Toolmaker51

mattthemuppet 2 says, Awesome lathe! I bet you found the tag a lot harder to pick up than you thought  

Somewhat yes; search results vary between 2950 and 3200 times harder than expected. Quite noticeable in an F350, so that's rather conclusive.


----------



## WobblyHand

Finally waited out the eBay timeout on my last purchase and got a refund issued on a poor excuse for a carbide boring bar.  

Used the funds to partially pay for a 1/2" QCBI500-8-5R carbide boring bar.  Seems to be a promo tool.  Comes with 9 inserts.



Too bad I wasn't around when they were handing these out for free!


----------



## Brento

Dont we all @WobblyHand


----------



## Toolmaker51

Circle Tool brand; first rate stuff, favorite grooving inserts too.


----------



## hman

@lordbeezer - Looks like the same mill as the Harbor Freight 44994 ($800) or the Grizzly G8689 ($925 + freight).  Both include a drill chuck, but not a vise.  The one in the photo looks a bit neglected (surface rust), and it doesn't appear the seller has added any "goodies," like the belt drive or the air spring "counterweight."  I've owned a 44991 for a number of years, and still use it for smaller jobs.  With a bit of TLC, these mills can be very useful.


----------



## Aukai

Got this one for a 100.00 plus shipping. I'm done...The Fowlers can go into hiding now


----------



## francist

Dang these import tools — they put all the twists on backwards!! 



Got me a screw that won’t come out, gonna try the old left-hand drill trick and see if I have any luck.


----------



## woodchucker

I have a cheap set of left hand bits... They have been successful more than not.  I think I have had one failure and many more successes.


----------



## WobblyHand

Some MT2 drill bits found their way to my home this afternoon.  Increased my cache of MT2 drills from 0 to 11.  


Thanks @Brento


----------



## wachuko

For me the question is… What else should I buy??

Going to pick up a small lathe today and the seller has this as well.  What else should I take with me?

I do not recognize most of the tools on this photo… the magnetic bases, yes, I’ll take those.. but do not know what are the other tools





Worth getting these?




Zooming on this one I see a few more tools.  There is a surface gauge/scribe



That Grizzly grinder with the white stones, hummm







And a lot of stock available... I will need to see what I can grab from that pile...







and this is the lathe I bought


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> For me the question is… What else should I buy??
> 
> Going to pick up a small lathe today and the seller has this as well.  What else should I take with me?
> 
> I do not recognize most of the tools on this photo… the magnetic bases, yes, I’ll take those.. but do not know what are the other tools
> 
> 
> View attachment 378339
> 
> 
> Worth getting these?
> 
> View attachment 378340
> 
> 
> Zooming on this one I see a few more tools.  There is a surface gauge/scribe
> 
> View attachment 378341
> 
> That Grizzly grinder with the white stones, hummm
> 
> View attachment 378342
> 
> 
> and this is the lathe I bought
> 
> View attachment 378343


the hss cutters yes.
the bondus t wrenches if you need them... get them for a good price. both for 20 would be max.
if you don't have a grinder, yes
the offset indicator point for inside readings... yes


swing lamps... YESSSSS always nice to have more light.


----------



## finsruskw

Not bought but GIFTED which is even better!!
Were found in a dumpster!
Kind of rusty to start with but a few days in some oxy-solve and a wire brush and the cleaned up nicely. 11.5" long.
Now I have another winter project, figuring out a way to  adapt/hold them for use in my shop press-brake and something to make that I can use them for


----------



## Larry$

wachuko said:


> Worth getting these?


Yes on the HSS tool bits, & the inside diameter attachment (ball ends on a pivot arm,) The Grizzl grinder only if really cheap, the white wheels are probably worth more than the grinder. The stock, if priced right, always worth having on hand. Shipping gets expensive for steel! Trammel points can be really handy. The antique indicator, if the pointer is still there, would be cool to have but not really useful in this age of modern indicators. The dividers if you don't have. Much depends on price and negotiation.


----------



## wachuko

These arrived today...


----------



## Gaffer

wachuko said:


> These arrived today...
> 
> View attachment 378453


I have Vol. 2 and waiting for a good deal on Vol. 1. Yours look to be in very good shape.


----------



## wachuko

Larry$ said:


> Yes on the HSS tool bits, & the inside diameter attachment (ball ends on a pivot arm,) The Grizzl grinder only if really cheap, the white wheels are probably worth more than the grinder. The stock, if priced right, always worth having on hand. Shipping gets expensive for steel! Trammel points can be really handy. The antique indicator, if the pointer is still there, would be cool to have but not really useful in this age of modern indicators. The dividers if you don't have. Much depends on price and negotiation.


Got a few things.  I did grab the dividers, I did not have any of those.  I forgot to get the grinder.  As you said, the white wheels are worth it... even if I have a grinder already setup with those.  I will go back tomorrow or Thursday for it...

The antique indicator?  Which one?  This one?  If so, yeah, got it!  It looks soooo cool... could not resist.  And it works!






You can see the rest of what I got in this thread:









						Buy a small lathe while I wait for the PM lathe to arrive??
					

Aaron, what's the story on the older Enco lathes? Were they made in Germany?  Emco was made by the Swiss, Enco was Taiwan.




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## wachuko

Gaffer said:


> I have Vol. 2 and waiting for a good deal on Vol. 1. Yours look to be in very good shape.


Bought them new from PennTool...


----------



## pontiac428

wachuko said:


> These arrived today...
> 
> View attachment 378453


Moltrecht is the man! Best reference out there


----------



## wachuko

Got an AXA Wedge Type Quick Change Tool Post Set 250-111 from Amazon... should be here tomorrow... I think that will be it in terms of buying stuff for the 9"x20" used lathe that I just got... Anything else, I will give it a try making it myself...

EDIT:  Wife confirmed that I am done buying stuff for anything... so yeah... done for now .  I will miss posting in the thread.  Don't you hate it when the wife comes in the middle of making a post??


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> Got an AXA Wedge Type Quick Change Tool Post Set 250-111 from Amazon... should be here tomorrow... I think that will be it in terms of buying stuff for the 9"x20" used lathe that I just got... Anything else, I will give it a try making it myself...
> 
> EDIT:  Wife confirmed that I am done buying stuff for anything... so yeah... done for now .  I will miss posting in the thread.  Don't you hate it when the wife comes in in the middle of making a post??


Oh, I know what you mean.   Was trawling for some inserts on evilbay just now.  While waiting for an evilbay carbide boring bar to arrive today.
The bar has arrived:  QCBI-500-8-5R and 9 TPCH-2205-CG5 inserts 0.007" radius.


Make do with what you have.  It's actually a great exercise, it forces you to be creative, and often results in some good ideas!


----------



## Doug Gray

Today I picked up a Spin Index fixture for 5c collets. Seems to be in very good shape, came with a shop made "quick release" system, pretty cool. It came also with a 6mm collet. While I was there I asked what else he had and we worked a deal on some new do-all solid carbide end mills. All in all a good Kajiji find.


----------



## Larry$

Doug Gray said:


> I picked up a Spin Index fixture for 5c collets.


They can be handy for several things. There are a lot of videos on modifying them. First thing I did was mill the sides & bottom of the base true to the bore so I could put in my vice. Makes it much quicker to use. I also reversed the spindle to get the indexing plate out of the way  for small tooling on short  or small diameter parts.


----------



## jwmelvin

Larry$ said:


> First thing I did was mill the sides & bottom of the base true to the bore so I could put in my vice.



How did you fixture it for machining?


----------



## Doug Gray

jwmelvin said:


> How did you fixture it for machininG


As Larry says once the bottom and sides of the base have been machined true, you can use it in a vice.

I like your spindel reversing idea larry. I have never used one of these but now that you mention it I can see how close work around the indexing plate could be tough.


----------



## jwmelvin

Doug Gray said:


> As Larry says once the bottom and sides of the base have been machined true, you can use it in a vice.



My question is about holding the spindexer to machine its base. I can imagine a cylinder held in a collet block in the vise and also by the spindexer. But that’s not the only or best way.


----------



## Larry$

jwmelvin said:


> How did you fixture it for machining?


To tell the truth I no longer remember. I know I used a piece of ground shafting in a collet as my reference.


Doug Gray said:


> I like your spindel reversing idea larry.


Not my idea. There are several people showing how they did it on YT.
I've considered making a tailstock for it to do longer fluting. 
Considering how cheap it was it has excellent fits. 
I ground a D bit to match a plastic gear and made it with the spin indexer. The catch is the # of teeth has to be evenly divisible into 360. 24 teeth works, 25 doesn't.


----------



## Christianstark

Ordered some 3 and 7 conductor shielded cables for controls wiring for my soon (?) to come PM-1340, a 2K Potentiometer, a 10 pack of Class CC fast fuses, and an 8" Master Precision 0.0002" over 10" level.

The buying never ends.

I also recently received some Shars Indexible face mills, and APKT Inserts for aluminum and ferrous.


----------



## finsruskw

Just showed up on the brown truck.
The 1st one which had a big crack in it came last week.
Little Machine Shop sent another and a return label to return the 1st one.
This one looks good.


----------



## Aaron_W

After discovering such a thing existed in a thread on making a proportional scale divider, I ordered this one on Amazon. It is hard to believe something this nice can be sold for only $25, I probably couldn't have bought the materials for that and doubt I could have made it any better.


----------



## Christianstark

I love living in the same area as Automation Direct. Ordered this yesterday afternoon, and free next day delivery.


----------



## WobblyHand

Christianstark said:


> I love living in the same area as Automation Direct. Ordered this yesterday afternoon, and free next day delivery.
> 
> View attachment 378811


What's the middle one, a limit switch?


----------



## WobblyHand

finsruskw said:


> Just showed up on the brown truck.
> The 1st one which had a big crack in it came last week.
> Little Machine Shop sent another and a return label to return the 1st one.
> This one looks good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 378809


I love the idea of these, but am concerned about the magnets.  My lathe has become magnetized.  Not sure I want my mill to join it.


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> What's the middle one, a limit switch?


looks like a sex device to me...


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> I love the idea of these, but am concerned about the magnets.  My lathe has become magnetized.  Not sure I want my mill to join it.


that's kind of normal on a mill. I made a demagnetizer for my drill press. I demag tooling. It could easily work on your lathe, just chuck it in a drill and run it around.

give me a few.. I either posted it on here years ago, or I'll have to dig up pics. simple to make. works like a charm.. not my idea though, just my implementation.



here's mine... some plastic, and an aluminum shaft.


See: 



 for how to make one.

I gotta tell you it works great, and it only took a few minutes to make.


----------



## wachuko

Aaron_W said:


> After discovering such a thing existed in a thread on making a proportional scale divider, I ordered this one on Amazon. It is hard to believe something this nice can be sold for only $25, I probably couldn't have bought the materials for that and doubt I could have made it any better.
> 
> 
> View attachment 378810


For drawing?


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> that's kind of normal on a mill. I made a demagnetizer for my drill press. I demag tooling. It could easily work on your lathe, just chuck it in a drill and run it around.
> 
> give me a few.. I either posted it on here years ago, or I'll have to dig up pics. simple to make. works like a charm.. not my idea though, just my implementation.


I really need a decent chip shield.  But as I said, at times, on the lathe it is just too magnetized.  I had bought a little demagnetizer, but it doesn't work well.  It does demagnetize slightly, but there's a lot of residual magnetism left.


----------



## Christianstark

WobblyHand said:


> What's the middle one, a limit switch?


Its to replace a jog button, and gain Forward and reverse jog function.


----------



## Christianstark

woodchucker said:


> looks like a sex device to me...


I tried it on my wife. To small to really do much, so...


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> I really need a decent chip shield.  But as I said, at times, on the lathe it is just too magnetized.  I had bought a little demagnetizer, but it doesn't work well.  It does demagnetize slightly, but there's a lot of residual magnetism left.


see what I added to my post. https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/what-did-you-buy-today.55645/post-884342


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> see what I added to my post. https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/what-did-you-buy-today.55645/post-884342


Yes, thanks.  Is yours steel or aluminum?  I have some 12mm magnets.  Not sure if I have a big enough piece of plastic, but that's a solvable problem.


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> Yes, thanks.  Is yours steel or aluminum?  I have some 12mm magnets.  Not sure if I have a big enough piece of plastic, but that's a solvable problem.


aluminum... I didn't think I needed steel, which itself would become magnetized.


----------



## WobblyHand

Having played with these magnets before, what did you do to restrain them while being glued?  A steel plate, which you slid off?  I've had them jump pretty far and join together.  Like inches.  They are strong.


----------



## Aaron_W

wachuko said:


> For drawing?



Sort of, it is for rescaling plans, could be drawing new plans or simply building from the plans. The marks along the arm set the proportion, so say you have a set of plans drawn in 1/48 scale and you want to build it in 1/24 scale or 1/72 scale. Instead of measuring, doing the math and measuring out the new scale, you just measure with one end, and if set properly the other end will be your re-scaled distance. 

At least that is my understanding of how it works.


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> Having played with these magnets before, what did you do to restrain them while being glued?  A steel plate, which you slid off?  I've had them jump pretty far and join together.  Like inches.  They are strong.


I don't remember, I think I used CA so it would be quick. Orientation is important.   I think I put a drop in the bottom and pressed each in... with a tight fit it should squeeze out and wick up. I may have sprayed accelerator on the mags... I honestly don't remember its been a long time.


----------



## hman

Aaron_W said:


> After discovering such a thing existed in a thread on making a proportional scale divider, I ordered this one on Amazon. It is hard to believe something this nice can be sold for only $25, I probably couldn't have bought the materials for that and doubt I could have made it any better.
> 
> 
> View attachment 378810


Wowsers!  Even the case looks fantastic!


----------



## Brento

I bought a bucket head to try out with chips in the shop. Only 30$ for the head unit so worth a shot id say


----------



## hman

Let us know how noisy it is.  I've really come to dislike overly loud equipment.


----------



## finsruskw

if that's a spiral hose, spiral chips are not going to play  well with it


----------



## Brento

I wont suck up spirals


----------



## DennisBastardMan

Finally found an old Sheldon UL44-B lathe with a chain drive on craigslist to replace my tiny Harbor freight mini lathe. needs some TLC on some of the old bronze gears, but thats it.


----------



## NCjeeper

I went to a fairly large flea market today. My wife scored big time and picked up a bunch of stuff. I only found these goodies. The inside mic set is Starrett.


----------



## Rifleman1384

I have been reading here about and looking around for an older Handbook, even bid on several at the Bay to no avail. I found this one, tax, shipping and all delivered was 11 dollars and some change so I took a chance. It is in wonderful condition, it does have a prior owners name back when Indianapolis address's were rural routes. No tears no missing pages, even had a short piece of register tape book marking the thread pitch pages.


----------



## wachuko

Rifleman1384 said:


> I have been reading here about and looking around for an older Handbook, even bid on several at the Bay to no avail. I found this one, tax, shipping and all delivered was 11 dollars and some change so I took a chance. It is in wonderful condition, it does have a prior owners name back when Indianapolis address's were rural routes. No tears no missing pages, even had a short piece of register tape book marking the thread pitch pages.


I did the same Friday…. But mine came to 29.00 - 13th Edition and 11.00 for the Guide…


----------



## woodchucker

DennisBastardMan said:


> Finally found an old Sheldon UL44-B lathe with a chain drive on craigslist to replace my tiny Harbor freight mini lathe. needs some TLC on some of the old bronze gears, but thats it.


as they say, pics or it didn't happen.


----------



## Larry$

DennisBastardMan said:


> Finally found an old Sheldon UL44-B lathe with a chain drive on craigslist to replace my tiny Harbor freight mini lathe. needs some TLC on some of the old bronze gears, but thats it.


I found what the U stands for but what is a chain drive on a lathe? 
If I'm correct the U stands for under drive. Meaning a belt shift drive in the cabinet. Seems like it would be good.


----------



## wachuko

Larry$ said:


> I found what the U stands for but what is a chain drive on a lathe?
> If I'm correct the U stands for under drive. Meaning a belt shift drive in the cabinet. Seems like it would be good.




Nice!!  You have to go to YouTube to see the video.  Does not work embedded in the thread.


----------



## Christianstark

Received my 8” master precision level. I live in a house built in 1960, and I’m struggling to find something level enough to calibrate this thing.

I’m losing.

so far it’s Level - 1, Budding Machinist - 0


----------



## Brento

Is it a machinist level. To calibrate it you just flip the level over and re ord where the bubble sits in the vile and adjust until the bubble is in the exact same spot as when you flip the level over.  There is a bunch of videos on youtube on how to also do it.


----------



## JRaut

What @Brento said.

A level is one of those neat “self-proving” bits of metrology.


----------



## Christianstark

Brento said:


> Is it a machinist level. To calibrate it you just flip the level over and re ord where the bubble sits in the vile and adjust until the bubble is in the exact same spot as when you flip the level over.  There is a bunch of videos on youtube on how to also do it.


Yeah. I’ve been trying that. It’s soooo sensitive though, and apparently my house is off level enough that if I don’t clock it exactly 180 degrees the bubble won’t repeat. I think tomorrow I’ll try again on my kitchen countertop, but it’s not on slab, and the floor is apparently flexing so I’m not getting repeatability.


----------



## Brento

Your best bet is make a fence on your mill table  this way you can put the level up against the fence and it will be very repeatable to get it fine tuned. I think i used my big parallels but if you have like a cast iron angle plate. That will also work great.


----------



## extropic

^ What Brento said.  Or, setup stops on a surface plate (assumed heavy on solid structure).


----------



## Christianstark

I’m still waiting for my mill and lathe, and I have no surface plates. I think I have it within a few tick marks. Good enough to level my lathe when delivered. I’ll just put a piece of tape on one side, and use the level in the same direction when checking the level front to back, and left to right.


----------



## woodchucker

@Christianstark ok, lets do this in a rough format.  go to the store, pick up a piece of MDF, 12x12 x 3/4

Pick up 3 carriage bolts 1/4 20 x 2 or 3 inch.  and 6 washers and 6 nuts
drill 3 holes in the mdf 120 degrees apart.

are you getting where I am going. Once you are done, take a regular level and start leveling the piece. you should be able to get in a rough level.
you should now be able to get to a workable point for maybe $5-10

oh btw, put the heads of the carriage bolts down, the semi circular domes will give you nice support.


----------



## Brento

@woodchucker @Christianstark that is not a bad idea but also if you are waiting for you lathe to arrive. What you can do is, well wait. Once your lathe is here and you want to level it. You now have a smooth nice surface to calibrate the level on. These levels are great in that you can calibrate and level a machine at the exact same time and sitting roughly. You can use your tailstock or even your headstock as a stop and from there just go at it with calibrating. It is going to be finicky bc that is the type of level they are. Just a little patience and it will go a long way.


----------



## 682bear

Christianstark said:


> I’m still waiting for my mill and lathe, and I have no surface plates. I think I have it within a few tick marks. Good enough to level my lathe when delivered. I’ll just put a piece of tape on one side, and use the level in the same direction when checking the level front to back, and left to right.



What part of Atlanta are you in? I have a surface plate I would part with if you need one... I'm about 45 miles west of Atl.

IIRC, this surface plate is a 12x18... it needs cleaning, but should be in decent condition otherwise...

-Bear


----------



## sportfan

I just send the payment to PM for a PM1130 lathe that I have been waiting on since March.


----------



## wachuko

sportfan said:


> I just send the payment to PM for a PM1130 lathe that I have been waiting on since March.


Congratulations!!!

I could had been on that batch had I not gotten persuaded by you all to go with a PM1236


----------



## C-Bag

I have been struggling with the flute grinding attachment on my U2 Checkel for over a year. After re bushing it and putting seal on it etc, under a load it’s a bust. Too much friction. It was mentioned several times by the experienced that the only thing that works is an air bearing. That’s what the real tool grinders have. So put an air bearing attachment in my long range radar. Few have showed up and usually in the $800+ range.

It had fallen to the impossible to find range until Fri in my usual search of CL from LA TO SF, down in Ventura an air bearing grinder attachment appears, for $200! Emailed to guy and didn’t want to get my hopes up and the owner, Jim called me back! He was a toolmaker for all his career and is liquidating his stuff. All in small lots. He said I was only the second guy to call and was shocked nobody had jumped on it for this price. I’ll be honest I thought it might be a come on. We worked it out and even though it was Ventura navigating Santa Barbara south is terrifying for me. Jim was even nicer in person and felt bad I’d had to come all that way(3hrs one way). So he threw in extra stuff no cost after I tried out the air bearing. Couple extra mill bits, a grinder hub. Aluminum channel and hex shaft! An air bearing is even more crazy wonderful than I imagined.

As I tried to leave he kept pulling stuff out and even though I’d specifically only brought $200 he kept throwing stuff at me no sane TAS sufferer could refuse.

First was Im not sure if it’s a cross slide or compound of a Hardinge. Rusty but tight, $10. Then as I was trying to close my car door he brings out this little jewel. It’s some kind of precision grinding fixture. All three axis are spring loaded with the x and the y with the little Lufkin mic’s for stops. He tried the “what will ya give me for it” and I told him homey don’t play that. He came back $10, doh! Said I could send him the $ in the mail. He had a really nice assortment of DI’s of all kinds and mic’s, which I’m good. But he still got me like I knew he would


----------



## woodchucker

C-Bag said:


> I have been struggling with the flute grinding attachment on my U2 Checkel for over a year. After re bushing it and putting seal on it etc, under a load it’s a bust. Too much friction. It was mentioned several times by the experienced that the only thing that works is an air bearing. That’s what the real tool grinders have. So put an air bearing attachment in my long range radar. Few have showed up and usually in the $800+ range.
> 
> It had fallen to the impossible to find range until Fri in my usual search of CL from LA TO SF, down in Ventura an air bearing grinder attachment appears, for $200! Emailed to guy and didn’t want to get my hopes up and the owner, Jim called me back! He was a toolmaker for all his career and is liquidating his stuff. All in small lots. He said I was only the second guy to call and was shocked nobody had jumped on it for this price. I’ll be honest I thought it might be a come on. We worked it out and even though it was Ventura navigating Santa Barbara south is terrifying for me. Jim was even nicer in person and felt bad I’d had to come all that way(3hrs one way). So he threw in extra stuff no cost after I tried out the air bearing. Couple extra mill bits, a grinder hub. Aluminum channel and hex shaft! An air bearing is even more crazy wonderful than I imagined.
> 
> As I tried to leave he kept pulling stuff out and even though I’d specifically only brought $200 he kept throwing stuff at me no sane TAS sufferer could refuse.
> 
> First was Im not sure if it’s a cross slide or compound of a Hardinge. Rusty but tight, $10. Then as I was trying to close my car door he brings out this little jewel. It’s some kind of precision grinding fixture. All three axis are spring loaded with the x and the y with the little Lufkin mic’s for stops. He tried the “what will ya give me for it” and I told him homey don’t play that. He came back $10, doh! Said I could send him the $ in the mail. He had a really nice assortment of DI’s of all kinds and mic’s, which I’m good. But he still got me like I knew he would


that deserves a *BIG YOU SUCK*


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> that deserves a *BIG YOU SUCK*


Yeah, but a great haul!


----------



## FOMOGO

Great score! I think that falls onto that once in a lifetime area. Mike


----------



## C-Bag

FOMOGO said:


> Great score! I think that falls onto that once in a lifetime area. Mike


I would tend to agree Mike, but I thought that when I got a univise here on HM for $50, or that UniDrill from another member, or my old Atlas 7b for $125 in an estate sale a couple of yrs ago. I will take all the suckage I can get  This was a mind blower for sure. I can only imagine the stuff he had when he started selling his hoard off months ago.


----------



## Janderso

I couldn't resist. $89 free shipping -Ebay. Hey it works and the tank is big! For the money.
Digital Ultra Sonic Cleaner


----------



## wachuko

Janderso said:


> I couldn't resist. $89 free shipping -Ebay. Hey it works and the tank is big! For the money.
> Digital Ultra Sonic Cleaner


That was only 89.00!!?? What size is that one?


----------



## Philzy

sportfan said:


> I just send the payment to PM for a PM1130 lathe that I have been waiting on since March.


Waiting on mine too.  They have them in the warehouse. Now it’s just the wait for the shipping email.


----------



## Philzy

Janderso said:


> I couldn't resist. $89 free shipping -Ebay. Hey it works and the tank is big! For the money.
> Digital Ultra Sonic Cleaner


Congrats.  Yours looks just like the one I have from Hornady.  It really comes in handy.


----------



## Janderso

wachuko said:


> That was only 89.00!!?? What size is that one?


ID-11 1/2" long, 5 1/2" wide, 6" deep.
$89 plus tax.


----------



## woodchucker

Janderso said:


> I couldn't resist. $89 free shipping -Ebay. Hey it works and the tank is big! For the money.
> Digital Ultra Sonic Cleaner


that's a huge tank for $89.. just don't throw bearings in there. Unless you don't care about them...


----------



## Larry$

Janderso said:


> I couldn't resist.


I've had a very similar on for about 6 months. I made a finer screen for the basket. 
I always pre-heat the water since the built in heater is vey slow. 
Maybe I was expecting too much but it hasn't worked as well as hoped. 
Tried putting small parts in a jar with more potent cleaner, that I sank in the US cleaner. Still not what I'd hoped for. 

What's the trick?


----------



## DennisBastardMan

woodchucker said:


> as they say, pics or it didn't happen.


fortunately it did happen haha

Unfortunately the cross slide nut and 3 jaw chuck are unusable in their old worn state. the cross slide nut has almost .2" of play in it, not to mention threaded in 1/2" 8TPI LH ACME, the tools to make these are almost non existent in my searches.  hopefully using a 10 TPI single point thread mill on my CNC will work, i just have to make a couple passes to get the thread width just right.  other than that it just needs a new QCGB tumber lever (the left one in the picture), it is so worn it only can engage in one spindle direction. this part will be a little harder to machine

as for the chuck i have a plate and chuck on the way .


----------



## Brento

C-Bag said:


> I have been struggling with the flute grinding attachment on my U2 Checkel for over a year. After re bushing it and putting seal on it etc, under a load it’s a bust. Too much friction. It was mentioned several times by the experienced that the only thing that works is an air bearing. That’s what the real tool grinders have. So put an air bearing attachment in my long range radar. Few have showed up and usually in the $800+ range.
> 
> It had fallen to the impossible to find range until Fri in my usual search of CL from LA TO SF, down in Ventura an air bearing grinder attachment appears, for $200! Emailed to guy and didn’t want to get my hopes up and the owner, Jim called me back! He was a toolmaker for all his career and is liquidating his stuff. All in small lots. He said I was only the second guy to call and was shocked nobody had jumped on it for this price. I’ll be honest I thought it might be a come on. We worked it out and even though it was Ventura navigating Santa Barbara south is terrifying for me. Jim was even nicer in person and felt bad I’d had to come all that way(3hrs one way). So he threw in extra stuff no cost after I tried out the air bearing. Couple extra mill bits, a grinder hub. Aluminum channel and hex shaft! An air bearing is even more crazy wonderful than I imagined.
> 
> As I tried to leave he kept pulling stuff out and even though I’d specifically only brought $200 he kept throwing stuff at me no sane TAS sufferer could refuse.
> 
> First was Im not sure if it’s a cross slide or compound of a Hardinge. Rusty but tight, $10. Then as I was trying to close my car door he brings out this little jewel. It’s some kind of precision grinding fixture. All three axis are spring loaded with the x and the y with the little Lufkin mic’s for stops. He tried the “what will ya give me for it” and I told him homey don’t play that. He came back $10, doh! Said I could send him the $ in the mail. He had a really nice assortment of DI’s of all kinds and mic’s, which I’m good. But he still got me like I knew he would


Im going to be about as lucky as you this weekend the lady who did a garage sale i bought my machines from said please come and look around again and take w/e you want otherwise it will all be garbage.


----------



## C-Bag

Brento said:


> Im going to be about as lucky as you this weekend the lady who did a garage sale i bought my machines from said please come and look around again and take w/e you want otherwise it will all be garbage.


I hope you find some good stuff, good luck!


----------



## Janderso

C-Bag said:


> I have been struggling with the flute grinding attachment on my U2 Checkel for over a year. After re bushing it and putting seal on it etc, under a load it’s a bust. Too much friction. It was mentioned several times by the experienced that the only thing that works is an air bearing. That’s what the real tool grinders have. So put an air bearing attachment in my long range radar. Few have showed up and usually in the $800+ range.
> 
> It had fallen to the impossible to find range until Fri in my usual search of CL from LA TO SF, down in Ventura an air bearing grinder attachment appears, for $200! Emailed to guy and didn’t want to get my hopes up and the owner, Jim called me back! He was a toolmaker for all his career and is liquidating his stuff. All in small lots. He said I was only the second guy to call and was shocked nobody had jumped on it for this price. I’ll be honest I thought it might be a come on. We worked it out and even though it was Ventura navigating Santa Barbara south is terrifying for me. Jim was even nicer in person and felt bad I’d had to come all that way(3hrs one way). So he threw in extra stuff no cost after I tried out the air bearing. Couple extra mill bits, a grinder hub. Aluminum channel and hex shaft! An air bearing is even more crazy wonderful than I imagined.
> 
> As I tried to leave he kept pulling stuff out and even though I’d specifically only brought $200 he kept throwing stuff at me no sane TAS sufferer could refuse.
> 
> First was Im not sure if it’s a cross slide or compound of a Hardinge. Rusty but tight, $10. Then as I was trying to close my car door he brings out this little jewel. It’s some kind of precision grinding fixture. All three axis are spring loaded with the x and the y with the little Lufkin mic’s for stops. He tried the “what will ya give me for it” and I told him homey don’t play that. He came back $10, doh! Said I could send him the $ in the mail. He had a really nice assortment of DI’s of all kinds and mic’s, which I’m good. But he still got me like I knew he would


Oh, you totally SUCK.
Nice job man.
I hear about deals like this, how's it feel?


----------



## Janderso

Brento said:


> Im going to be about as lucky as you this weekend the lady who did a garage sale i bought my machines from said please come and look around again and take w/e you want otherwise it will all be garbage.


I'll be right over.


----------



## Brento

Janderso said:


> I'll be right over.


Sorry buddy my secret stash lol


----------



## Larry$

DennisBastardMan said:


> 1/2" 8TPI LH ACME, the tools to make these are almost non existent


Try McMaster-Carr. They have a lot of sizes of Acme rod & nuts. You maybe able to adapt them.


----------



## DennisBastardMan

Larry$ said:


> Try McMaster-Carr. They have a lot of sizes of Acme rod & nuts. You maybe able to adapt them.


that was my 1st stop, i got some steel nuts that i could use for a temporary part until i get the brass one i have from another vendor.  ive found options, so its not the end of the world, but all are going to be more work intensive than buying a new nut already threaded and ready for installation.  but then again i bought a lathe older than my grandpa, so i should have expected as much haha


----------



## C-Bag

Janderso said:


> Oh, you totally SUCK.
> Nice job man.
> I hear about deals like this, how's it feel?


Thanks. If you go down to Ventura I’m sure he’ll make you a deal you can’t refuse. He seems totally focused on getting his tools into the hands of those who will use and enjoy them. His prices as you can see are astoundingly cheap. I think in my case he was glad to just find someone who knew what it was and what it was worth. I was afraid to stay longer because I had no idea what he’d pull out next!


----------



## Ulma Doctor

DennisBastardMan said:


> that was my 1st stop, i got some steel nuts that i could use for a temporary part until i get the brass one i have from another vendor.  ive found options, so its not the end of the world, but all are going to be more work intensive than buying a new nut already threaded and ready for installation.  but then again i bought a lathe older than my grandpa, so i should have expected as much haha


acme nuts are not difficult to produce, if you have problems getting one, i'd be happy to help out


----------



## C-Bag

Ulma Doctor said:


> acme nuts are not difficult to produce, if you have problems getting one, i'd be happy to help out


How about a Delrin nut? How is the one you made doing?

Inquiring minds have been wondering………


----------



## Ulma Doctor

C-Bag said:


> How about a Delrin nut? How is the one you made doing?
> 
> Inquiring minds have been wondering………


the delrin nut is excellent!!!!
i find it to be better than the OEM!


----------



## brino

C-Bag said:


> I have been struggling with the flute grinding attachment on my U2 Checkel for over a year. After re bushing it and putting seal on it etc, under a load it’s a bust. Too much friction. It was mentioned several times by the experienced that the only thing that works is an air bearing. That’s what the real tool grinders have. So put an air bearing attachment in my long range radar. Few have showed up and usually in the $800+ range.
> 
> It had fallen to the impossible to find range until Fri in my usual search of CL from LA TO SF, down in Ventura an air bearing grinder attachment appears, for $200! Emailed to guy and didn’t want to get my hopes up and the owner, Jim called me back! He was a toolmaker for all his career and is liquidating his stuff. All in small lots. He said I was only the second guy to call and was shocked nobody had jumped on it for this price. I’ll be honest I thought it might be a come on. We worked it out and even though it was Ventura navigating Santa Barbara south is terrifying for me. Jim was even nicer in person and felt bad I’d had to come all that way(3hrs one way). So he threw in extra stuff no cost after I tried out the air bearing. Couple extra mill bits, a grinder hub. Aluminum channel and hex shaft! An air bearing is even more crazy wonderful than I imagined.
> 
> As I tried to leave he kept pulling stuff out and even though I’d specifically only brought $200 he kept throwing stuff at me no sane TAS sufferer could refuse.




Okay I am conflicted here!

Part of me wants to say:

because I never find deals like this.

....however, since you have been looking so long and doing the weekly searches you deserve some reward!



C-Bag said:


> I was afraid to stay longer because I had no idea what he’d pull out next!


Tony, go ahead and spoil yourself. We all know that these opportunities do NOT come up often!

-brino


----------



## Brento

I agree. This weekend will be my last trip to my honey hole for goodies. After thats it is whatever you chaps have for sale or i find on other interwebs.


----------



## wachuko

Got a stainless steel tray to catch most of the chips... Angle gauge and The Use of Handbook Tables and Formulas also arrived.


----------



## Janderso

Larry$ said:


> I've had a very similar on for about 6 months. I made a finer screen for the basket.
> I always pre-heat the water since the built in heater is vey slow.
> Maybe I was expecting too much but it hasn't worked as well as hoped.
> Tried putting small parts in a jar with more potent cleaner, that I sank in the US cleaner. Still not what I'd hoped for.
> 
> What's the trick?


You get what you pay for. I wasn’t expecting any real quality, 120 f in about ten minutes. I ran an oily tool for about five minutes in one teaspoon dawn and a tablespoon of ammonia.
It’s clean baby.


----------



## C-Bag

brino said:


> ....however, since you have been looking so long and doing the weekly searches you deserve some reward!


Thanks Brino. But these not weekly searches, but daily. Some folks look at hockey scores, or whatever, my relaxation is looking at CL. It’s always fascinating and instructive to see what comes up. It’s what my wife calls tool porn  It is my guilty pleasure. And being an at home worker it’s also what I do as my break.

I’m also incredibly lucky that I’m married to the best partner I’ve ever had. She knows I only bring this stuff to her because partially I can’t believe what I’ve found, so I have to share it. But I’m also conflicted. I’ve been close to grid lock in my too small shop for too long. And I tell myself, that’s it, I don’t need anything else. And this comes along. And she says after she wants a complete explanation, how can you NOT go get it? She even wanted a demo when I got back. I’m lucky and grateful.


----------



## Brento

You lucky duck you!


----------



## brino

C-Bag said:


> I’m also incredibly lucky that I’m married to the best partner I’ve ever had. She knows I only bring this stuff to her because partially I can’t believe what I’ve found, so I have to share it. But I’m also conflicted. I’ve been close to grid lock in my too small shop for too long. And I tell myself, that’s it, I don’t need anything else. And this comes along. And she says after she wants a complete explanation, how can you NOT go get it? She even wanted a demo when I got back. I’m lucky and grateful.



Cherish that and her!
-brino


----------



## brino

Janderso said:


> I couldn't resist. $89 free shipping -Ebay. Hey it works and the tank is big! For the money.
> Digital Ultra Sonic Cleaner


Jeff,
Was that a "one off" ebay deal or does the seller have more?
I was given an ancient ultrasonic cleaner by my father in law, but it was broken. I replaced a vacuum tube once, but it appears dead again.
It is on my list to convert to solid-state, but that list is likely longer than my life span.
Feel free to PM me the seller or link.
Thanks,
Brian


----------



## C-Bag

brino said:


> Cherish that and her!
> -brino


Absolutely. Problem is she gets excited when I find some crazy deal and I’m stymied by the logistics and she’s telling me it’s only $$, what are you saving it for ?
My Portuguese Guilt kicks in and I’m all in a knot….


----------



## Janderso

brino said:


> Jeff,
> Was that a "one off" ebay deal or does the seller have more?
> I was given an ancient ultrasonic cleaner by my father in law, but it was broken. I replaced a vacuum tube once, but it appears dead again.
> It is on my list to convert to solid-state, but that list is likely longer than my life span.
> Feel free to PM me the seller or link.
> Thanks,
> Brian


Here you go buddy,









						Commercial 6L Ultrasonic Cleaner Industry Heated Heater w/Timer Jewelry Glasses 806808177162 | eBay
					

Ultrasonic cleaning is based on the cavitation effect caused by high frequency ultrasonic wave vibration signals in fluid. As a result, it is more convenient and efficient than hand wash, steam cleaners, high pressure water jet cleaning or other machines.



					www.ebay.com


----------



## Janderso

C-Bag said:


> I’m stymied by the logistics and she’s telling me it’s only $$, what are you saving it for ?


I had to explain to my wife, if I take social security when you want me to at 65 and 6 months vs. 65, the difference is $54 a month.
I'll be missing out on $16,200 to earn $54 more per month.
Yeah, I know. She struggles with math, but let's me do anything I want in my shop including filling it with expensive tools 

You and me C-Bag, we got lucky man.


----------



## brino

Janderso said:


> Here you go buddy,


Thanks Jeff!

That allowed me to find essentially the same unit on amazon.ca for CAD$219, with free shipping.
The vendor you used did not ship to Canada, and other ebay sellers in the US wanted USD$130 just for shipping!

-brino


----------



## Suzuki4evr

woodchucker said:


> that deserves a *BIG YOU SUCK*


Seconded


----------



## wachuko

After seeing how projectiles can fly off the lathe ... ordered this today


----------



## rwm

I bought this Fowler edge finder:



However, as far as I can tell it has no provision for overtravel. If I pass zero by 10-20 thou it looks like I would permanently damage (bend) the tip. I think it is going back unless I am missing something?

Robert


----------



## woodchucker

rwm said:


> I bought this Fowler edge finder:
> View attachment 379222
> 
> 
> However, as far as I can tell it has no provision for overtravel. If I pass zero by 10-20 thou it looks like I would permanently damage (bend) the tip. I think it is going back unless I am missing something?
> 
> Robert


yea, that wouldn't last long. I like the idea, but over and over I see utubers that complain about it not being accurate after a couple of bumps.


----------



## C-Bag

Janderso said:


> Yeah, I know. She struggles with math, but let's me do anything I want in my shop including filling it with expensive tools


I know nobody is going to believe this but I use the size of my shop to keep my TAS to a dull roar and I catch her looking at houses with a big shop. I think it’s a two pronged approach where she can try and sucker me into a different house through a bigger shop. But it won’t work, too much $$, way too much work, and way too late in the game. She’s only 2yrs off from retiring and paying off the house. No place does the math work out. And when I point out she’d have to put off her retirement(in most cases indefinitely!) reality sinks in.

We visited my wife’s best friend who moved to the upper peninsula of MI last month. And she fell in love with (me too) where they live on the shore of Lake Superior. Absolutely beautiful. She started looking at real estate and there was a place inland with 3ac, older nice 2bdrm 2ba house with a 30x70 steel building and a barn. The building was FULL of automotive tools/equipment that went with it. All except the backhoe……$265k. I just had to remind my best half why she left Massachusetts, WINTER. nuf said.


----------



## woodchucker

C-Bag said:


> I know nobody is going to believe this but I use the size of my shop to keep my TAS to a dull roar and I catch her looking at houses with a big shop. I think it’s a two pronged approach where she can try and sucker me into a different house through a bigger shop. But it won’t work, too much $$, way too much work, and way too late in the game. She’s only 2yrs off from retiring and paying off the house. No place does the math work out. And when I point out she’d have to put off her retirement(in most cases indefinitely!) reality sinks in.
> 
> We visited my wife’s best friend who moved to the upper peninsula of MI last month. And she fell in love with (me too) where they live on the shore of Lake Superior. Absolutely beautiful. She started looking at real estate and there was a place inland with 3ac, older nice 2bdrm 2ba house with a 30x70 steel building and a barn. The building was FULL of automotive tools/equipment that went with it. All except the backhoe……$265k. I just had to remind my best half why she left Massachusetts, WINTER. nuf said.


What's wrong with winter? it's a great time to lock yourself into your shop, go skiing, go play with your dog in the snow.
I like all the season, but summer is usually too hot and humid lately.


----------



## C-Bag

woodchucker said:


> What's wrong with winter? it's a great time to lock yourself into your shop, go skiing, go play with your dog in the snow.
> I like all the season, but summer is usually too hot and humid lately.


I would tend to agree, with the right setup. But I’ve never lived where there is snow for months. Living here I’ve turned into a temp wimp. When I lived in the Central Valley from May to October was all the same, sunny and HOT. My old buddies in the valley say there has been like 90 days over 100f. Homey cant do dat no mo.


----------



## Janderso

C-Bag said:


> But it won’t work, too much $$, way too much work, and way too late in the game. She’s only 2yrs off from retiring and paying off the house. No place does the math work out. And when I point out she’d have to put off her retirement(in most cases indefinitely!) reality sinks in.


It's very tempting, we've been thinking about finding more space. The home we are in is fine, the shop is the garage. It's fine.
Every time I think about the $200-$300,000 more it would cost, let's just say I start sweating.
We would have to leave the state, leave our kids and grand kids. Not going to do it.
Debt free is very nice and we see the boys on a regular basis.


----------



## wachuko

I found a way to get my wife to let me buy a few more tools... I should have thought of this a long time ago...

I was playing doing lines... but will make another one without them.. This was the first actual project with the lathe... 




On the other end...







Went ahead and ordered some steel design stamps, some additional end mills, the LED magnifying lamp for the lathe, anchorlube, thread pitch gauge tools (Metric America, Imperial, and America type), and an Emergency Stop Switch and inexpensive tachometer for the HF 9x20 lathe...


----------



## Dhal22

Janderso said:


> I had to explain to my wife, if I take social security when you want me to at 65 and 6 months vs. 65, the difference is $54 a month.
> I'll be missing out on $16,200 to earn $54 more per month.
> Yeah, I know. She struggles with math, but let's me do anything I want in my shop including filling it with expensive tools
> 
> You and me C-Bag, we got lucky man.




16,200 / 54 = 300 or 25 years............   Is that right??????


----------



## Dhal22

woodchucker said:


> What's wrong with winter? it's a great time to lock yourself into your shop, go skiing, go play with your dog in the snow.
> I like all the season, but summer is usually too hot and humid lately.



We only get seriously cold January and February.  30's, sometimes in the 20's.   Even that is too long.    Sell my company someday and I'm gone to Florida.


----------



## Gaffer

I made an impractical CL purchase today, but it was just too cool to pass up, especially for $300. The seller was a retired machine builder and had a nice machine shop. Fortunately, this was the only thing he was willing to part with. It's a Starrett 20-36 Master Precision Square. The edges are sharp and there is no evidence it has ever been dropped or otherwise abused. It's as true to square as I could measure, but I don't have the ability to ensure it meet's Starrett's accuracy of .0001" every 6" without sending to them for calibration. I don't know the weight, but I'd estimate it be be around 30lbs. It'll do as is!


----------



## Dhal22

Much needed tools for my rc airplane building.   Tiny little guy on the end.


----------



## Christianstark

Dhal22 said:


> Much needed tools for my rc airplane building.   Tiny little guy on the end.


Adorbs!!!


----------



## C-Bag

I would think not to many of those were made and would hate to guess how much it was new! 

Did it come with a case? if not better get on it.


----------



## C-Bag

Gaffer said:


> I made an impractical CL purchase today, but it was just too cool to pass up, especially for $300


I would think not to many of those were made and would hate to guess how much it was new!

Did it come with a case? if not better get on it.


----------



## Gaffer

C-Bag said:


> I would think not to many of those were made and would hate to guess how much it was new!
> 
> Did it come with a case? if not better get on it.


It didn't come with a case, and I didn't see one on Starrett's website ( https://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/20-36 ). Starrett lists it for $5,080, but I've seen them new for as low as $4,700. There's a used one on eBay for $2,999 and the picture shows a Starrett wood case                     ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/234121363235?hash=item3682b87f23:g:BzMAAOSwMRFhAyFt ). I'm going to build one, but it will be a very secure wall-hanger for now.


----------



## C-Bag

Gaffer said:


> It didn't come with a case, and I didn't see one on Starrett's website ( https://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/20-36 ). Starrett lists it for $5,080, but I've seen them new for as low as $4,700. There's a used one on eBay for $2,999 and the picture shows a Starrett wood case                     ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/234121363235?hash=item3682b87f23:g:BzMAAOSwMRFhAyFt ). I'm going to build one, but it will be a very secure wall-hanger for now.


as low as $4,700, LOL! I bought a used set of B&S precision squares that came out of a QC lab. They were a bargain, but when I started checking them several seemed less than precision. Not until I stoned them with the set of toolroom stones did the prove to be right on. Crazy, I couldn't hardly feel the dings but could feel the drag of the stones on them. They stay in their case until I need something really precise. Then the whole case of the set comes out and the case set on the workstation and each time returned to the case while in use not getting set on the bench. It's super nice to have access to such precision but it takes an insane amount of attention to keep them that way, and precision toolroom stones


----------



## Just for fun

Getting ready for the mill.   What is the little flat thing I have circled?


----------



## Steve-F

That is to change or tighten the indicator tip


----------



## Just for fun

Steve-F said:


> That is to change or tighten the indicator tip


Oh yeah.  I see it's a tool.... Thanks!


----------



## NCjeeper

Tired of those cheap Chinese face mills leaving crappy finishes because the carbide pockets are not all milled to the same depth. Bit the bullet and found this new 4" Walter for my 40 taper mill on E-bay.


----------



## Brento

Edit to delete comment. Forgot a quote.


----------



## Brento

Just for fun said:


> Getting ready for the mill.   What is the little flat thing I have circled?
> 
> View attachment 379313


Ive got one of them. It worked great except my mill now wont work with it. The spindle nose is to big for the hold down.


----------



## Just for fun

Brento said:


> Ive got one of them. It worked great except my mill now wont work with it. The spindle nose is to big for the hold down.


What mill do you have?  Maybe this won't work with the one I'm getting either!


----------



## francist

Gaffer said:


> I made an impractical CL purchase today


Love the pentagonal screw heads, not to mention the square itself!


----------



## Brento

Just for fun said:


> What mill do you have?  Maybe this won't work with the one I'm getting either!


I have a Clausing 8530. You would prob be ok but im not sure exactly what you are getting.


----------



## Just for fun

I'm buying a PM-835S.


----------



## wachuko

Just for fun said:


> I'm buying a PM-835S.



Wow!! Sweet, sweet machine!!!  Congratulations!!


----------



## hman

Just for fun said:


> I'm buying a PM-835S.


Hope you like it as much as I do mine!  Feel free to ask any questions you might have.
Post #51 at https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/base-feet-for-a-bridgeport.1362/page-6








						Converting a knee mill to 3phase/VFD
					

I've recently bought a Precision Matthews PM-835S.  Advertised as a "small" knee mill, it's still amazingly massive - and TALL.  I've had to build a platform to stand on (re-using some of the the 2x4s and OSB the mill was crated with), just to be able to reach some of the controls and levers...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				



Post #10 at https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/cut-a-hole-in-knee-mill-column.91927/#post-842566


----------



## Just for fun

Thanks guys! 

John,  Thanks for the links,  I'll check them out.


----------



## Just for fun

1959 Edition..... Same year I was born, how cool is that?


----------



## 682bear

I received a package today... it was an e-bay purchase...







It's the worlds grungiest Aloris CXA... it works fine, just needs cleaning up.

-Bear


----------



## woodchucker

it'll cleanup fine... and a new knob, it will look new.


----------



## projectnut

No pictures today, but I did stop by my favorite used equipment dealer yesterday.  I was actually ;looking for a Burr King deburring like this.





__





						Model 760 1.5 x 60 or 2 x 60 Three Wheel Belt Grinder - Product Details
					






					www.burrking.com
				




I missed the one he had so I went through the yard looking for some material for my "under construction" long arm deburring grinder.  I happened across a large stack of new 6061 aluminum sheet, round stock, flat stock, and tubing.  Mixed in the tubing were some strange profile extrusions.  I asked what they were from and was told he bought out a company that was making agricultural sprayers.  The company is not going out of business, but rather consolidating operations in one location.

I ended up with 70 lbs. of 1"x 1 1/4", 1"x 1 1/2"", and 1 1/2" x 2" flat stock.  9' of 2"x 3" x 1/4" wall rectangular tube, a 3' x 4' sheet of 1/4" plate, and a 4' section of mounting rail for industrial electrical cabinets.  The whole works came to a total of $145.00 including the half dozen or so cuts he had to make to get it in the truck.  Next time I'll take a closer look at the extrusions.  They were interesting, and I'm sure I will be able to think of something to use them for.

Here's a link to the sprayer companies website.  The long arms of the boom in the picture are made from the extrusions.  It's a combination of round tube attached to angle iron.  The tube is oval shaped on the inside with 4 "female keyways" at 90*.  This is not a weldment, but rather an extrusion.
https://spraybooms.com/wet-boom-sprayer-pipe/ 

When I get back to the shop I'll use the mounting track to replace the shorter piece that mounts the back splash to the larger lathe and begin using some of the flat stock and tubing for the deburring grinder


----------



## wachuko

@Steve-F just had to show his beautifully made Hemingway-styled knurling tool... what a work of art.  There is no way I was going to be able to make that just by looking at photos like he did... Here is Steve's




So I ordered the kit...





__





						Hemingway Kits Knurling
					





					www.hemingwaykits.com
				







I like how Steve used brass in some of the components, and the changes in style on a few of the parts...

I have some brass stock that I can use to do the same... so I will probably make the tool with what comes in the kit and then start replacing parts with some made out of brass...

EDIT:  Found a set of videos of someone that bought the kit and is documenting the build:



			https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChs2y-9lONsetwZCbowUhqg
		


First video... you can see the rest of the videos in his channel...


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> @Steve-F just had to show his beautifully made Hemingway-styled knurling tool... what a work of art.  There is no way I was going to be able to make that just by looking at photos like he did... Here is Steve's
> 
> View attachment 379509


@Steve-F that's just plain tool porn... NICE.. how does it work?  I have a simpler type, just a tension screw, like an EAGLE type (I think) nice job.


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> @Steve-F just had to show his beautifully made Hemingway-styled knurling tool... what a work of art.  There is no way I was going to be able to make that just by looking at photos like he did... Here is Steve's
> 
> View attachment 379509
> 
> 
> So I ordered the kit...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hemingway Kits Knurling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hemingwaykits.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 379510
> 
> 
> I like how Steve used brass in some of the components, and the changes in style on a few of the parts...
> 
> I have some brass stock that I can use to do the same... so I will probably make the tool with what comes in the kit and then start replacing parts with some made out of brass...


It is a pretty one!  I made my knurler from Mikey's plans.  Straddle knurler  Made a plinth for it to rest on.  Came out really well, but not the level of tool porn that Steve's is.  The one above has very nice curves.


----------



## Steve-F

Thank you very much woodchucker and Wobblyhand!! I had a lot of fun making it It works similar to what you describe but it also has a cam lobe connected to the shaft  the lever arm and you can move towards you on the fly and increase the pressure, struck me as an interesting feature and had to have one!


----------



## 682bear

It cleaned up pretty good...




Now I need to make a knob for it...

-Bear


----------



## woodchucker

Steve-F said:


> Thank you very much woodchucker!! I had a lot of fun making it It works similar to what you describe but it also has a cam lobe connected to the shaft  the lever arm and you can move forward on the fly and increase the pressure, struck me as an interesting feature and had to have one!


I mean, how do the knurls look, and do you like the cam?  
Very sweet looking.


I need to order some new knurls, last night I noticed some dead spots in my knurls... I like a fine knurl and these give me that.   
I am thinking of ordering the rounded type knurls to get that better quality knurl.  All mine are flat


----------



## Steve-F

woodchucker said:


> I mean, how do the knurls look, and do you like the cam?
> Very sweet looking.
> 
> 
> I need to order some new knurls, last night I noticed some dead spots in my knurls... I like a fine knurl and these give me that.
> I am thinking of ordering the rounded type knurls to get that better quality knurl.  All mine are flat


The knurls come out great so far on brass and aluminum and I tend to like the aggressive knurls more so, but the pinching feature is Gold on a small lathe like mine, nothing gets beat up! I think the cam feature is cool, I love gears and levers, the more the merrier!! Thanks again for the compliments!


----------



## brave_ulysses

bagged these brutes from a lab move


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Snagged a new "toy". It probably cost too much but is something I wanted rather than needed. There was a post the last week or two about a tap for "6/16 inch". Curiosity about why such a numbering system. I snagged an entire set of "bicycle" threads, Sears & Robuck, that has a number of taps and dies(?) for such threads. I interpreted the 6/16 as 3/8 inch. Looking at the 1/2 inch dies, that looks reasonable. What got my attention was the odd thread pitches, 1/8-42 which equates to a Nr 5 screw size, 1/4-24 and 32, 5/16-22 and 26, and the like. Also a Left Hand 1/2-20 and 24. The odd thread pitches are probobly archaic and obsolete. I doubt I'll ever use them, but may do so just to mess with somebody's head. The 1/8 screw is likely a match for a "stove bolt" to my father's time when I was little. It'll take a week or 10 days to know for sure once it gets here.



It took that time. My apologies for the political link that got inserted.
.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

been sorting through some auction goodies, anybody need some Mazak CNC tool blocks and bushings?


----------



## JRaut

I picked up a 22” prop for the Edwards Radial 5 that I’m working on over here:








						Edwards Radial 5 build thread --- PHOTOS!
					

Episode 1 || Introduction to My Build Thread   Background After a brief search through the H-M.com archives, I was a bit surprised that nobody had documented their journey building an Edwards Radial 5-cylinder engine. These engines are reasonably complex and time consuming to construct, but as...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




Still a long way away from attaching the prop, but it’s a nice bit of motivation.

Also got a 2’ rod of Beryllium Copper to use for valve cages/seats/guides. I’ve never worked with it before so I chucked it up in the lathe for a test cut: machines beautifully.

Beer for scale.


----------



## francist

JRaut said:


> 2’ rod of Beryllium Copper


Just don’t breathe the dust, it’s not good.


----------



## Weldingrod1

Cut it wet, clean up afterwards... Aluminum bronze or Nickle Aluminum bronze is nearly as strong and not toxic.

Coming from the oilpatch; I know my downhole metals 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## finsruskw

Just scored at a local auction this morning.
At least I hope it turns out to be a score!!
Weighs in at 8+ pounds
D.I. is a Westhoff brand?? Decent quality??
Anyone familiar with their instruments?


----------



## extropic

> @finsruskw :  Anyone familiar with their instruments?



I have two Westhoff 1" indicators. Had them for probably 40 years. They look just like yours.
They haven't been abused and still function as expected.
I got them with the purchase of two Westhoff Mighty Mag magnetic bases.
Apparently Westhoff is still are in business.  Mighty Mag

Interesting that my Mighty Mags don't say "Made in USA" but the one pictured in the Amazon ad does.

That looks like a nice comparator stand.


----------



## JRaut

francist said:


> Just don’t breathe the dust, it’s not good.


Thanks for the heads up.

In the lathe, it machined as a nice continuous chip using HSS. Might make a little more of a mess in the mill.


----------



## Logan 400

I have several of these that I have bought from $7.00 to $50.00 each. I came across this one at a yard sale for $2.00. I'm going to clean it up, paint it and use it for my taps and dies.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

I love those things, almost to the point of addiction/ compulsion  I bought 3 similar to that a couple of years ago for $5 and then sold the contents (GE arc light spotlight spare parts) on eBay for ~$500. They now have all of my miscellaneous screws in one, metric in another and SAE in the third.


----------



## woodchucker

Logan 400 said:


> I have several of these that I have bought from $7.00 to $50.00 each. I came across this one at a yard sale for $2.00. I'm going to clean it up, paint it and use it for my taps and dies.
> View attachment 379826


good price, that's what I use one of mine for..


----------



## C-Bag

Logan 400 said:


> I have several of these that I have bought from $7.00 to $50.00 each. I came across this one at a yard sale for $2.00. I'm going to clean it up, paint it and use it for my taps and dies.
> View attachment 379826


Nice score. Those are a find and much better than the all plastic new ones. It’s funny how the memory plays tricks. I thought the one I picked at an estate sales exactly the same, but upon taking a look it doesn’t have as many drawers and not as nice of shape. Guess the old guy did boat repair as it had all kinds of hardware, but so far nothing I use, oh well.


----------



## Logan 400

I have 5 mounted on the end of some shelves four are the same size cabinets but have different bin configurations.


----------



## woodchucker

Logan 400 said:


> I have 5 mounted on the end of some shelves four are the same size cabinets but have different bin configurations.
> View attachment 379936


nice workspace. I like seeing what people have done to their shops... always looking for ways to squirrel more space for tools. or space to work.


----------



## C-Bag

The space under my mill/drill has turned into where all my different tool boxes and an old military card file turned odds and ends storage is. I found a really nice multi section slide on the curb on junk day. And I think I’m going to have to use it to mount this storage on it to slide it sideways into the space I have left.


----------



## WobblyHand

My digital tachometer kit came in.  Now I have to figure out some clever way to mount this on a mini-lathe. It's pretty much the same kit everyone uses.  Mine has a green display.  

Also received a set of 5 MT2 drills in various sizes.  Really bought it just to get the larger sizes of 7/8' and 1".  To make these fit a mini-lathe tailstock, I have to grind off the tangs.  For the price I paid, I don't feel bad about grinding them.


----------



## Brento

How much were your MT2 drills?


----------



## WobblyHand

Brento said:


> How much were your MT2 drills?


$29.50 for the 5 of them.  Yours were a better deal!  Import HSS.  1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8 & 1".  Hope the twist won't unravel!  I had a Chinese corkscrew unwind on me in a cork.


----------



## WobblyHand

WobblyHand said:


> $29.50 for the 5 of them.  Yours were a better deal!  Import HSS.  1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8 & 1".  Hope the twist won't unravel!  I had a Chinese corkscrew unwind on me in a cork.


Not joking about the corkscrew.  I bought this while in China in 2007.  First use, in the desert, far away from anywhere, on a bottle of wine netted me this and an unopened bottle of wine. I was so astonished, I saved this corkscrew and brought it home.  Had to use the knife blade to cut out the cork.  Cork everywhere, including in the wine.





Edit: reason, change date to 2007.  Add photo of dunes and corkscrew in cork.


----------



## Aukai

Weren't you supposed to pre drill it, hello....


----------



## brino

WobblyHand said:


> To make these fit a mini-lathe tailstock, I have to grind off the tangs. For the price I paid, I don't feel bad about grinding them.



Don't just lop them off blindly...... be sure to leave enough to eject them from the tail-stock.

-brino


----------



## WobblyHand

Aukai said:


> Weren't you supposed to pre drill it, hello....


The corkscrew went in fine, without distortion.  But it was made of the weakest material and distorted when I tried to pull the cork.  I just checked, the corkscrew is magnetic.


----------



## WobblyHand

brino said:


> Don't just lop them off blindly...... be sure to leave enough to eject them from the tail-stock.
> 
> -brino


For a mini-lathe, at least my mini-lathe, one needs to grind it all off.  If you leave some of the tang, the taper won't even seat.  It will eject as long as the "tang" extends 2-3mm past the end of the taper.


Top one doesn't quite seat correctly.  Will spin under load.  I need to grind it a little bit more.  Bottom taper (Jacobs arbor) I had to fully grind off the tang.  It seats correctly and is ejected properly in my mini-lathe.


----------



## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> Not joking about the corkscrew.  I bought this while in China in 2000.  First use, in the desert, far away from anywhere, on a bottle of wine netted me this and an unopened bottle of wine. I was so astonished, I saved this corkscrew and brought it home.  Had to use the knife blade to cut out the cork.  Cork everywhere, including in the wine.
> View attachment 380029



Bottom line... nothing was going to stop you from getting to the wine.


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> Bottom line... nothing was going to stop you from getting to the wine.


You better believe it   I had bought that knife with the corkscrew in a department store, a few days earlier.  As evening fell, we were gathered around while sitting on top of a giant sand dune, 30m high?, and someone pulled out a bottle of wine.  I said, (confidently,) I got this covered.  Got to say, we had quite a laugh when pulling the cork resulted in a stretched corkscrew.  That was _before_ having the wine.  After that, I was determined.  No cork was going to stop me.


----------



## hman

@Logan 400, @woodchucker, @C-Bag ... Just to add to the party ... check post #183 at https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...did-you-make-in-your-shop-today.67833/page-19
-or-
Post #6 at https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/metal-drawers.77137/#post-649377

I'd have posted the photos here, except I keep getting a strange error - "Parsing response failed" when I try.


----------



## woodchucker

@hman nice. I like those bottom cabinets. I just found one in wood the other day similar size, but it's going to my son this weekend.  That was a good find at Ikea.


----------



## woodchucker

@hman how light is the steel on those?


----------



## C-Bag

hman said:


> @Logan 400, @woodchucker, @C-Bag ... Just to add to the party ... check post #183 at https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...did-you-make-in-your-shop-today.67833/page-19
> -or-
> Post #6 at https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/metal-drawers.77137/#post-649377
> 
> I'd have posted the photos here, except I keep getting a strange error - "Parsing response failed" when I try.


I remember those….now  While we were discussing this I did a quick search and did something I usually never do and that’s a general search and missed this, it was in the free section! I hardly ever look there either.


----------



## hman

Thanks for the kind words.  Ikea seems to keep changing the available colors of the Helmer units.  I could only find 3 colors back in '18, so I bought two white units and painted the drawer fronts of one of them for a 4th color.  Having 4 uniquely colored sides has helped me remember where to look for things!

As for sturdiness ... I miked the side.  It's about 0.028 (including paint).



In addition, the sides are one with the bottom - "fold on the dotted line."  So the edges are holey and prone to "leak."  I did add hot glue to all the seams of the front and back panels to make the drawers a bit sturdier, and might eventually do the same for the bottom side edges.  But everything I keep in these drawers is in boxes, baggies, or other secondary containment.  

My rolling/spinning "hardware store" storage unit is about 90% devoted to fasteners, and the Helmers units are great for that ... probably less so for heavy machine parts.


----------



## woodchucker

@hman thank you. That's not bad, except for the holes. if I were using for woodworking, great, keeps the saw dust out, or dropped to the bottom.
I can see using one unit for files. Setup some racks inside to keep them separate and keep different types in different drawers.


----------



## Logan 400

@hman I had séen your setup when I was organizing my shop. I only had about 12" space on one wall. This is how I filled that 18 feet of wall space.


----------



## FOMOGO

Picked up this 175HD Lincon mig for $175. It was absolutely filthy, and covered with sawdust inside and out, but had a new gun on it that had never been used, and had a repair tag inside, also came with a cheap auto hood. Disassembled it, and blew everything out, adjusted the feed mechanism, which was way off, fired it up and it runs like a champ. Took a few passes to get used to the settings. Not a big fan of the mostly plastic feed setup, so ordered an aftermarket metal one, with larger diameter feed wheel   https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/G/01/apparel/rcxgs/tile._CB483369110_.gif . Will probably pass this one on to my son as I'm pretty full up on welders. Mike


----------



## C-Bag

GOOD SCORE.

That’s basically the same welder I have. I used a 175 just like it out in the field all day, everyday for 2yrs and like you I was skeptical of the plastic feed but it never gave a moment’s problem unlike the Miller 175‘s we had in the shop with nice looking drives. Those things were boat anchors. The one thing my 175 suffered from was it sat mostly and the amperage knob at the top was acting up. And the welder started malfunctioning. Took it apart and the innerds of that knob have like a step for different contacts for the amperage and where the shaft went through it was sticky. So it was not making good contact. Squeezed some dialectic grease in the so the whole thing made contact like it should and never had another problem.

 YMMV.


----------



## wachuko

I wanted to try these kind of tool bits... so bought a cheap set to play with the HF lathe...


----------



## 682bear

Two packages arrived today... the first one is a Mittler Bros shrinker body...




A couple of years ago I bought a shrinker/ stretcher setup that came with both sets of jaws but only one body, so I ordered this body so I don't have to keep swapping the jaws out.




The other package had this...







... it is an old Hendey follow rest... it's pretty interesting, and not made like any follow rest I've ever seen.




When I first saw one of these on e-bay, I thought it was hogwash, that there was no way that's what that thing was... then I found it in an old Hendey catalog on V-M.

The one on e-bay went for too much money, but I found this one for sale elsewhere and had to have it...

-Bear


----------



## brino

682bear said:


> not made like any follow rest I've ever seen



Me neither.
It really would support the work directly behind the cut.
Great idea!

Why aren't they all made like that?

-brino


----------



## Just for fun

It's a heavy unit.   The instructions look like they were written from somebody in 5th grade.  Probably translated to english from someone who doesn't know english.  I'm a little concerned about the adjustment of it.   I played with it on the kitchen counter a little, man is it sensitive.  I hope I didn't waste a 100 bucks!


----------



## Eyerelief

Finally broke down and purchased an internal mic.  I decided on electronic to cut down on the squinting.  I wish these units were a little smaller, like the standard units, but I guess you can't have large digits in small places.  Its not Mitutoyo but I think it will be better than stuffing calipers down a hole and wiggling them around until I get the largest reading.


----------



## Doug Gray

Eyerelief said:


> Finally broke down and purchased an internal mic.  I decided on electronic to cut down on the squinting.  I wish these units were a little smaller, like the standard units, but I guess you can't have large digits in small places.  Its not Mitutoyo but I think it will be better than stuffing calipers down a hole and wiggling them around until I get the largest reading.
> View attachment 380222


Very cool. What is the size range on that unit?


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Bi11Hudson said:


> Snagged a new "toy". It probably cost too much but is something I wanted rather than needed. There was a post the last week or two about a tap for "6/16 inch". Curiosity about why such a numbering system. I snagged an entire set of "bicycle" threads, Sears & Robuck, that has a number of taps and dies(?) for such threads. I interpreted the 6/16 as 3/8 inch. Looking at the 1/2 inch dies, that looks reasonable. What got my attention was the odd thread pitches, 1/8-42 which equates to a Nr 5 screw size, 1/4-24 and 32, 5/16-22 and 26, and the like. Also a Left Hand 1/2-20 and 24. The odd thread pitches are probobly archaic and obsolete. I doubt I'll ever use them, but may do so just to mess with somebody's head. The 1/8 screw is likely a match for a "stove bolt" to my father's time when I was little. It'll take a week or 10 days to know for sure once it gets here.
> 
> View attachment 379548



Wednesday, 210929(?): This "set" showed up in the mail. I was duly impressed, it was packaged like an antique. Which it appears to be, although I did acquire it for tinkering. Not sure how long it's been that Sears sold tap sets in a wooden case. But it's a Butterfield set, made for Sears. I've worked with Butterfield taps, they're good. I would *speculate* it as pre-WW2. The dies are thread *cutting* dies, not thread restorers. So I have to assume the taps are as well. Looks like I'll be having some "fun" in the future. The 1/2-20  Left  Hand already has some work cut out for it. I have a die for 1/2-20 Left Hand but it didn't want to start. I'll try this one about half way through and tighten as I go. Maybe that will give me a good start.


Eyerelief said:


> Finally broke down and purchased an internal mic.  I decided on electronic to cut down on the squinting.  I wish these units were a little smaller, like the standard units, but I guess you can't have large digits in small places.  Its not Mitutoyo but I think it will be better than stuffing calipers down a hole and wiggling them around until I get the largest reading.


I have an inside mic, although I never use it. A salvage buy. . . It isn't a digital, though. Like a regular mic with add on extensions. Up to a couple of feet if all the extensions are put on, maybe for 12":1' steam cylinders. Smallest it will go is about 2 inches. I do tinker with scale (small) steam engines, maybe that digital is what I really need. Calipers and a brake cylinger hone do marginal (leaky) work.

.


----------



## Eyerelief

Doug Gray said:


> Very cool. What is the size range on that unit?


This one is a .2" - 1.2".  Hasn't been delivered yet, but assume the pins are .100" each.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Eyerelief said:


> This one is a .2" - 1.2".  Hasn't been delivered yet, but assume the pins are .100" each.


Probably a little smaller than that. The anvils extend beyond the pins at the closer.


----------



## Eyerelief

Papa Charlie said:


> Probably a little smaller than that. The anvils extend beyond the pins at the closer.


Papa,  Now that I think about it you have to be 100% correct, couldn't have the pins touching or there would be no material between them to hold them in place.


----------



## Aukai

My adult beverages are on hold for awhile, so I can't blame DWCC(drinking with credit card), but it was a late night order. I remembered I was running out of Pig Mat, and ordered 2 rolls. I wonder if I have enough? The bad thing is, it's not perforated for half sheets.


----------



## woodchucker

Aukai said:


> My adult beverages are on hold for awhile, so I can't blame DWCC(drinking with credit card), but it was a late night order. I remembered I was running out of Pig Mat, and ordered 2 rolls. I wonder if I have enough? The bad thing is, it's not perforated for half sheets.


that's a big roll. I think the dog thinks it's a pee pad.


----------



## Eyerelief

Aukai said:


> My adult beverages are on hold for awhile, so I can't blame DWCC(drinking with credit card), but it was a late night order. I remembered I was running out of Pig Mat, and ordered 2 rolls. I wonder if I have enough? The bad thing is, it's not perforated for half sheets.
> 
> 
> I wouldnt be afraid to be really messy if I had a stash like that!


----------



## Aukai

She has never had a pee pad, she barks at the door if she has to go out.  
Any good paper cutters out there to buy?


----------



## woodchucker

Aukai said:


> She has never had a pee pad, she barks at the door if she has to go out.
> Any good paper cutters out there to buy?


I just keep a pocket knife in my pocket.. keep it sharp...


----------



## Aukai

I just checked the perfs are at 10" the sheet is 15" wide. I'm fabbing a roll hanger now to hit the 16" centers on the studs


----------



## woodchucker

Aukai said:


> I just checked the perfs are at 10" the sheet is 15" wide. I'm fabbing a roll hanger now to hit the 16" centers on the studs


are you kidding? I thought those were the 30" wide ones. Your dog is really small.


----------



## Aukai

You making fun of my Rottweiler/Great Dane mix  
I hung the roll under my wife's garage divider, glad I have a small break to bend the 1/8 plate(supposed to be for 18g)


----------



## Brento

Bought me some wooden cases for 40$. Im really excited for the one bc it has the rod for a depth mic still in it. Since it is a Starrett i am hoping they will fit my depth mic i have now and i just gained a bigger range. One or two of these cases i am going to try and repurpose for holding dies or a different tool. And tonight i also bought some tpg inserts on ebay for my Kennametal tools.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Aukai said:


> You making fun of my Rottweiler/Great Dane mix



Man, you have to stop drying your dog on high heat, it shrunk!


----------



## pdentrem

Found a couple items at antique store. Stanley 34 level and a Moore and Wright 1” caliper. Total $53
Pierre


----------



## wachuko

Ordered a few inexpensive dial indicators.  And will be making the mounts for the lathe.

Ordered two of these:




And one of these:




Just to have options to play with as I make the mounts for it...


----------



## GreatOldOne

eBay listing pics, as I literally just pounced on this. 5 1/4” six jaw set true chuck. Listing just said ‘English, precision’ and looking at other similar vintage chucks I believe it’s a Pratt - Burnerd. Which if it is I just stole it. 




Ill have to make a back plate but that’s no big deal… but ya, new chuck. And lesser yay - cast iron dust everywhere again.


----------



## GreatOldOne

wachuko said:


> I wanted to try these kind of tool bits... so bought a cheap set to play with the HF lathe...
> 
> View attachment 380127


Yeah, I always use carbide on my Mac Mini as well. Certainly helps when installing memory.


----------



## Christianstark

Got some cheap endmills, a noga deburring tool, some 1/2” HSS lathe blanks, some center drills, and some spotting drills, and 5 matched pairs of 1-2-3 blocks. Gonna try out my new bench grinding wheel soon. Still waiting on my machines…


----------



## extropic

GreatOldOne said:


> eBay listing pics, as I literally just pounced on this. 5 1/4” six jaw *set true* chuck. Listing just said ‘English, precision’ and looking at other similar vintage chucks I believe it’s a Pratt - Burnerd. Which if it is I just stole it.
> Ill have to make a back plate but that’s no big deal… but ya, new chuck. And lesser yay - cast iron dust everywhere again.



Nice buy.

I don't see the set true features that I expected (4 setscrews to bear on the pilot diameter). Please clarify what makes it other than a plain back chuck.

Also, I'm curious about the 3 socket head fasteners counterbored into the OD. What do those do? Teach me something.


----------



## GreatOldOne

As far as I’m aware it these allen / cap heads that shift the chuck about the axis of rotation to dial it in. I will be checking out how it all works when it arrives… it’ll be a voyage of discovery!


----------



## extropic

@GreatOldOne 

Thanks so much for the detail. I didn't read it 100% but read enough to get the gist of it.

It looks like the 3 socket head screws bear on, and adjust the eccentricity of, the 3 lobed piece in the center of the chuck. I assume that piece locates the scroll and, therefore, the jaws. There must be more to it, I think, but I'll be able to sleep tonight.

One of the shortcomings of scroll chucks is that the scroll gets worn more where it's used more, so different diameter workpieces runout different amounts. Your chuck will let you easily reset concentricity at any workpiece diameter. Very neat and thank you for posting.


----------



## Aukai

My Halo light came, I think it gives out a pretty good amount of light, it is brighter than my previous one. My Quasar goose neck LED is still brighter, but you have to deal with glare, and shadows. 126 LEDs if you started counting.


----------



## FOMOGO

Treated myself to the big Noga. Figure this will be used mostly on the 26" Niles lathe, and the big Gorton mill, along with engine machine work. Mike


----------



## rabler

I think this qualifies as a tool.  83" x 55"x13",  about 7200 lbs of granite surface plate.  It's actually the base from a former CMM.



I really need to sell this trailer to stop myself from picking up these large random finds


----------



## Brento

rabler said:


> I think this qualifies as a tool.  83" x 55"x13",  about 7200 lbs of granite surface plate.  It's actually the base from a former CMM.
> 
> View attachment 381061
> 
> I really need to sell this trailer to stop myself from picking up these large random finds


You gonna break that into chunks to send to some of us?


----------



## Christianstark

Brento said:


> You gonna break that into chunks to send to some of us?


If it fits…it ships!


----------



## rabler

Brento said:


> You gonna break that into chunks to send to some of us?


As soon as I get a tile saw big enough to cut through it


----------



## brino

GreatOldOne said:


> Listing just said ‘English, precision’



So no good for metric?      






-brino


----------



## WobblyHand

rabler said:


> As soon as I get a tile saw big enough to cut through it


Make one of these


----------



## rabler

WobblyHand said:


> Make one of these


I guess that means you’re in line for a piece of granite too?


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> I wanted to try these kind of tool bits... so bought a cheap set to play with the HF lathe...
> 
> View attachment 380127


Looks like I just bought the same set.
Can I ask  you to look at yours?

I have 2 problems, and one... well not sure. I would not think that the boring bar needs a negative rake.. but mine has it...
The 2 problems are the left and right screws are in the wrong spot causing the carbide to lift.
I am not sure if I want to keep them. I think I can fix the RH one, the left will require a lot more elbow work... 





I played with the boring bar, and the RH tool since the RH was hitting the holder at the tip.  Nice cutting, and I am breaking a chip on the same material that HSS, CNMG, and WNMG were giving me fits on.  So that's a win. The other thing is it didn't break the bank, but now I wish I had spent more on the 16mm, rather than the 12. I could have reduced the bottom and gotten a beefier piece of carbide... oh well.

We'll see if the seller will replace the one holder.


----------



## WobblyHand

rabler said:


> I guess that means you’re in line for a piece of granite too?


Although I'd love to say yes, not really.  (No place left in the shop!)  I just thought a homemade diamond saw like that was really cool.  There have been times when I would have liked to cut granite like that.  Such as when I needed to cut granite edging, did it the old fashioned way, with a chisel. Came out good enough.

Quarries must use a version of that wire saw, but at an even larger scale.


----------



## woodchucker

rabler said:


> I think this qualifies as a tool.  83" x 55"x13",  about 7200 lbs of granite surface plate.  It's actually the base from a former CMM.
> 
> View attachment 381061
> 
> I really need to sell this trailer to stop myself from picking up these large random finds


WHOLLY GRANITE BATMAN... do you have a need for a plate that big?
Do you know what kind of stand you're going to have to build to support that monster.... 
WOW... WOWSER...


----------



## rabler

woodchucker said:


> WHOLLY GRANITE BATMAN... do you have a need for a plate that big?
> Do you know what kind of stand you're going to have to build to support that monster....
> WOW... WOWSER...


Need?  You mean I have to justify buying tools with a need?  What happened to buy once cry once?

I figure 3/16 x 4 x 4 square tube to make 4 legs.  3/8 x 6 x 6 caps.  2” x 3” x 3/16 rectangular tube for cross bracing.  Three point support probably not going to happen.

I was looking for a 3’ x 4’.  This came along at a better price.


----------



## woodchucker

rabler said:


> Need?  You mean I have to justify buying tools with a need?  What happened to buy once cry once?
> I figure 3/16 x 4 x 4 square tube.
> I was looking for a 3’ x 4’.  This came along at a better price.


No you don't need a NEED... just curious if you were planning on working on big stuff, like engines, (That's even too big for an engine)... I guess I don't know what you would stick on a plate that size..
Maybe a mattress.

I'm GREEN with envy.. But I would have to build a new shop to find a place for that.


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> Looks like I just bought the same set.
> Can I ask  you to look at yours?
> 
> I have 2 problems, and one... well not sure. I would not think that the boring bar needs a negative rake.. but mine has it...
> The 2 problems are the left and right screws are in the wrong spot causing the carbide to lift.
> I am not sure if I want to keep them. I think I can fix the RH one, the left will require a lot more elbow work...
> View attachment 381064
> View attachment 381066
> View attachment 381065
> 
> 
> I played with the boring bar, and the RH tool since the RH was hitting the holder at the tip.  Nice cutting, and I am breaking a chip on the same material that HSS, CNMG, and WNMG were giving me fits on.  So that's a win. The other thing is it didn't break the bank, but now I wish I had spent more on the 16mm, rather than the 12. I could have reduced the bottom and gotten a beefier piece of carbide... oh well.
> 
> We'll see if the seller will replace the one holder.



Mine are the 12 mm ... Here is the link to the set I got: 4 Piece 1/2" Mini Lathe Indexable Carbide Turning Tool Set.

I think you should return those and have them replaced for a new set...  mine do not have that issue... Here, take a look:










And I agree, spoiled with how good they work over the other bits I was using... but I am just getting started, so I know very little... but these made working the parts so easy...


----------



## rabler

woodchucker said:


> I'm GREEN with envy.. But I would have to build a new shop to find a place for that.


My new shop construction tentatively starts Jan 3rd.  I’m already working to fill it up!!


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> Mine are the 12 mm ... Here is the link to the set I got: 4 Piece 1/2" Mini Lathe Indexable Carbide Turning Tool Set.
> 
> I think you should return those and have them replaced for a new set...  mine do not have that issue... Here, take a look:
> 
> View attachment 381067
> 
> View attachment 381068
> 
> View attachment 381069
> 
> View attachment 381070


Thanks, it looks like your boring bar is also negative rake, that's what I was curious about.
I think one of your holders looks like it is not sitting flat. The straight in turning piece.  I decided to try modifying it.
I first took a stone out, but then tried a needle file. They are not hardened and the needle file is working. I am moving ahead slowly. But I think I can move the pocket back a few thou and have it sit flat.


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> Thanks, it looks like your boring bar is also negative rake, that's what I was curious about.
> I think one of your holders looks like it is not sitting flat. The straight in turning piece.  I decided to try modifying it.
> I first took a stone out, but then tried a needle file. They are not hardened and the needle file is working. I am moving ahead slowly. But I think I can move the pocket back a few thou and have it sit flat.



humm... you might be correct.  I will check them against a light.


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> humm... you might be correct.  I will check them against a light.


I have both sitting flat. The filing was not too bad. Just take it slow, and check often. Use a file with a safety edge (no cut).


----------



## GreatOldOne

brino said:


> So no good for metric?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -brino


To avoid imperial entanglements, I just jump to hyperspace. My lathe makes 2.54 past light speed. You know - ‘she may not look like much, but she’s got it where it counts, kid’


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> I have both sitting flat. The filing was not too bad. Just take it slow, and check often. Use a file with a safety edge (no cut).



Thank you for noticing that.




The stuff you see on the tip is just debris... I cleaned that after taking the photo... the gap was still there after cleaning it... so it needed to be flatten with the file...




Done!  Minimal clean up required...


----------



## 682bear

The delivery truck brought me another gift yesterday...




...a wood box with 29 Hendey #3 collets...

These 29, along with the collets that came with my last Hendey lathe, will give me a full set of #3 collets from 1/8" to 7/8" in 1/32" increments... along with a few 64ths sizes.

-Bear


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> Thank you for noticing that.
> 
> View attachment 381128
> 
> 
> The stuff you see on the tip is just debris... I cleaned that after taking the photo... the gap was still there after cleaning it... so it needed to be flatten with the file...
> 
> View attachment 381129
> 
> 
> Done!  Minimal clean up required...
> 
> View attachment 381130
> 
> View attachment 381131


----------



## woodchucker

@wachuko when I get a chance later, I will show you what I had to do.  I had to move my pocket back, since the screw was not lining up.
That's what I thought was wrong with yours too.  But there are different ways to solve problems. Looks like it worked.


----------



## Janderso

GreatOldOne said:


> eBay listing pics, as I literally just pounced on this. 5 1/4” six jaw set true chuck. Listing just said ‘English, precision’ and looking at other similar vintage chucks I believe it’s a Pratt - Burnerd. Which if it is I just stole it.
> View attachment 381017
> View attachment 381018
> View attachment 381019
> 
> Ill have to make a back plate but that’s no big deal… but ya, new chuck. And lesser yay - cast iron dust everywhere again.


That's a set true!!
You scored dude.


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> Thank you for noticing that.
> 
> View attachment 381128
> 
> 
> The stuff you see on the tip is just debris... I cleaned that after taking the photo... the gap was still there after cleaning it... so it needed to be flatten with the file...
> 
> 
> 
> Done!  Minimal clean up required...
> 
> View attachment 381130


Here's how I fixed mine.
I filed a little off the pocket to move the carbide slightly back so it had room for the mis-aligned screw to pull down correctly.  Now that you have fixed yours, don't do the same, or you will be back in worse shape.
edit: also if you are new to carbide, do not over tighten the screw. Many do, they are easy to strip out. They require a snug, then just a little more.


----------



## wachuko

Found this an hour away…





I did not even haggled…he was asking 75.00 .  I gave him 80.00 since I didn’t have change…. When he saw that, he pulled a spare motor he had and gave it as part of the deal…

It was his grandfather’s

Belt guard was missing

Driving back home with it…

I blame @yota


----------



## Janderso

wachuko said:


> Found this an hour away…
> 
> View attachment 381173
> 
> View attachment 381174
> 
> I did not even haggled…he was asking 75.00 .  I gave him 80.00 since I didn’t have change…. When he saw that, he pulled a spare motor he had and gave it as part of the deal…
> 
> It was his grandfather’s
> 
> Belt guard was missing
> 
> Driving back home with it…
> 
> I blame @yota


I can't make it out.
\What model-manufacturer?


----------



## wachuko

Janderso said:


> I can't make it out.
> \What model-manufacturer?



Sorry... forgot that... it is a Walker Turner drill press...  I just got home.  Let me share a few more photos... not sure of the model.  To be honest, got it for its vintage looks...

Edit:  Photos - I think it is a 1940's D950 model... 15" Bench model drill press...

Missing the original switch...  And the belt cover.  Owner told me that he does not recall ever having a belt cover.  Looking at the catalog from 1940, not clear if that was an option or not...  

Will see what a cover goes for...but pretty sure it will be more than what I paid for the whole machine...




Removed the boards...




Not sure if this is actually a holder for the key wrench...




Motor




Serial for the drill... The only thing I did was to clean it with Goo Gone... Very happy to see that it was pristine under the grime (more like a cosmoline-like goo)




I need to find matching paint as I want to restore it...  And no, I will not be painting it Grizzly - Rust Oleum Hammered Green




So??  Is this just going to be eye candy in the garage??  Or will I be able to use it for metal work?




Just to check how easy it was going to be to restore the looks of the handles... I removed all the balls, cleaned the rods with 120 grit and worked this one up to 2000 grit... yeah, these will come out looking great.  Place the ball back on the handle just for the photo... I need to repeat this with the other 3... Some are more pitted than the others...


----------



## Doug Gray

That DP is just awesome! I'll bet the run out is still better than my modern POS.


----------



## Dhal22

Very nice.


----------



## Nogoingback

After all those years there's no arc of shame!  Grandpa took care of his machines it seems.  Very nice.
Since it's in such nice shape, would you consider not painting it and leaving it "stock"?  It looks so
good just as it is.


----------



## Doug Gray

Nogoingback said:


> After all those years there's no arc of shame!  Grandpa took care of his machines it seems.  Very nice.
> Since it's in such nice shape, would you consider not painting it and leaving it "stock"?  It looks so
> good just as it is.


I was thinking the same thing leave it as is, including the stand.


----------



## wachuko

Nogoingback said:


> After all those years there's no arc of shame!  Grandpa took care of his machines it seems.  Very nice.
> Since it's in such nice shape, would you consider not painting it and leaving it "stock"?  It looks so
> good just as it is.





Doug Gray said:


> I was thinking the same thing leave it as is, including the stand.



You have a very good point... I will follow your advice and leave most of it alone...

The more I look at it and the more I clean it... this machine was still covered in the wax based goo (or cosmoline) that it came with new (or the stuff you spray on to protect them)...

I will, however, polish the stuff that has surface rust... handles, center tube/post, feed wheel levers...Why?  Because I was stupid enough to start doing that... Now, (too late for those parts) reading your feedback, I should have left that alone as well... now I have to finish it so it looks pristine and it develops its own patina under my care...

Take a look at the depth gauge... I took it out, dropped it in a bowl with a mild degreaser...  I can now see the numbers again.   And look at the feed lever and shaft...  used steel wool on those...  the feed lever rods do need a lot more work because of how pitted most of those are...




And the table I just cleaned with a blade, then fine steel wool and WD-40...  I will use a file to correct/clean some of the slots... but that is it...




Here is a look at both surfaces done, table and base...




I ordered a new belt, a new start capacitor... will finish with the light cleaning and call it done.

And agree as well on the stand.  I will fix it by adding the missing 1x4 in the front and also call it done.

I am pretty sure Grandpa would be proud.




Very appreciative of the feedback... left alone, I do get carried away...


----------



## extropic

@wachuko 

I think you're doing the DP just right. It's going to have an old iron, well cared for look.

A total rebuild, maybe even better than new, is one way to go but I like your approach.

I couldn't leave the rust on things either. Especially on the bits used to operate the machine. Having "friendly" controls is part of the pleasure, for me anyway.

Nice job.


----------



## Aukai

Shovel nose Porsche in the back?


----------



## wachuko

Aukai said:


> Shovel nose Porsche in the back?


1967 Porsche 912... Build thread here...


----------



## Aukai




----------



## wachuko

This arrived today from the UK


----------



## NCjeeper

More of a horse trade than a purchase 
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
from member Christian.


----------



## brino

wachuko said:


> I will, however, polish the stuff that has surface rust... handles, center tube/post, feed wheel levers...Why? Because I was stupid enough to start doing that... Now, (too late for those parts) reading your feedback, I should have left that alone as well... now I have to finish it so it looks pristine and it develops its own patina under my care...



Great advice and great plan forward!

Just one caution......
When I noticed some rust on the main vertical column of my 22" King drill press I clean it up and then used the same wax-type product* that I typically use to protect the table-saw top in my garage shop. (* Bostik Glide Kote)
Since then I have had trouble clamping the table to the post fully without really cranking hard on the table lock. It doesn't fall, but turns around the post if you bump it. Sometimes that is very frustrating, like after drilling and changing to tap guide.

I am still looking for a good compromise of rust protection and table grip for this.

-brino


----------



## ttabbal

wachuko said:


> This arrived today from the UK
> 
> View attachment 381269



They have a number of interesting items. What are you building? 

I've started a boring/facing head from MLA. http://mlatoolbox.com/MLA-7.html

My first go working with a casting. It's interesting and has been a lot of fun learning how to do setups and such. Down side is machining cast iron is messy.


----------



## Christianstark

NCjeeper said:


> More of a horse trade than a purchase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 381270
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from member Christian.


Glad to see it got to you safely! I’m hoping with some clean up, and a little love it will serve you well.


----------



## wachuko

ttabbal said:


> They have a number of interesting items. What are you building?
> 
> I've started a boring/facing head from MLA. http://mlatoolbox.com/MLA-7.html
> 
> My first go working with a casting. It's interesting and has been a lot of fun learning how to do setups and such. Down side is machining cast iron is messy.


I got both of their knurling kits...


----------



## wachuko

A fellow forum member pointed me to Andy's website: http://mlatoolbox.com/index.html

So many cool kits.  Reading feedback from other forums, the castings seem to be of very good quality. Got on the phone with the owner, Andy (what a great guy btw) just to make sure that the information in the website was current and to find out what kits he had in stock.  Decided to go with the: BORING AND BALL TURNING TOOLPOST - (MLA-13)




These are mostly designed for a Southbend lathe... but I am guessing that I can make these work with any lathe... at least I hope so.


----------



## ttabbal

wachuko said:


> A fellow forum member pointed me to Andy's website: http://mlatoolbox.com/index.html
> 
> So many cool kits.  Reading feedback from other forums, the castings seem to be of very good quality. Got on the phone with the owner, Andy (what a great guy btw) just to make sure that the information in the website was current and to find out what kits he had in stock.  Decided to go with the: BORING AND BALL TURNING TOOLPOST - (MLA-13)




I bet you can adapt it to whatever you like. I considered that one too, and decided to make things difficult on myself with the boring/facing head, which he told me is one of the more difficult ones to make. lol. Owell. Please post your thoughts when building and using it. 

I found mine to have very good quality castings with few inclusions. I have yet to hit hard spots or other real issues. The hardest part is holding them, but he does include some instructions with good ideas on how to do it. Mine are very specific to a lathe, even milling the dovetails on the lathe, which I think I'm going to pass on and use the mill instead. But showing a known way to do it helps a lot.


----------



## wachuko

ttabbal said:


> I bet you can adapt it to whatever you like. I considered that one too, and decided to make things difficult on myself with the boring/facing head, which he told me is one of the more difficult ones to make. lol. Owell. Please post your thoughts when building and using it.
> 
> I found mine to have very good quality castings with few inclusions. I have yet to hit hard spots or other real issues. The hardest part is holding them, but he does include some instructions with good ideas on how to do it. Mine are very specific to a lathe, even milling the dovetails on the lathe, which I think I'm going to pass on and use the mill instead. But showing a known way to do it helps a lot.



We talked about that one when I asked him what else I should get... when I told him I was a newbie he said, that I might want to have some practice under my belt before tackling it, lol.  He mentioned that it was a bit more involved... I was very appreciative of that comment/recommendation.

Do you have a thread on that build?  Or specific post with photos?

I did find an old thread (2009)on another forum where one of their members has pretty much done almost all of Andy's kits...




I do not have plans to start mine right away.  I need to take baby steps first... so I will practice a bit more with Delrin, PVC pipes, etc.  

I am just searching for kits.  So that I can stay busy building them after I have more practice with the lathe...


----------



## woodchucker

went to a garage sale today..
lots of good stuff, but I didn't need or want most of it. What I did want was already sold.

so I picked up some small stuff.
A pyrometer, I want to cast Aluminum , so if I ever get that built, I'll have it.

Some loc line, and a miles pocket hole jig..   edit: not so crappy milescraft.. not top notch, but not bad.
$7 for all... so if the pyrometer doesn't work, it doesn't hurt too bad.. They wanted more, but I could not see paying more,especially if you saw the inside of the case.


----------



## ttabbal

wachuko said:


> We talked about that one when I asked him what else I should get... when I told him I was a newbie he said, that I might want to have some practice under my belt before tackling it, lol.  He mentioned that it was a bit more involved... I was very appreciative of that comment/recommendation.
> 
> Do you have a thread on that build?  Or specific post with photos?




No, I thought about taking pics and doing a thread, but the cast iron is so messy that I don't want to handle my phone after working with it. I might at least take a few with mill setups though, as those are different from the provided instructions. If you haven't seen it, look for Joe Pi's youtube channel. His model lathe build is great for showing ideas for working on castings.


----------



## Janderso

Albrecht and Jacob’s. Best EBay deal I’ve had in a long time.
0-3/8” Albrecht and 0- 1/4” USA Jacob’s.
I‘m going to put the Albrecht on the 1930{s Canedy-Otto Royal 16, Cincinnati Lathe and Tool co.
It has the J33 taper.


----------



## extropic

@Janderso

You got that column clean as a hound's tooth. The DP is going to be a gem sitting on the bench.


----------



## Nogoingback

wachuko said:


> A fellow forum member pointed me to Andy's website: http://mlatoolbox.com/index.html
> 
> So many cool kits.  Reading feedback from other forums, the castings seem to be of very good quality. Got on the phone with the owner, Andy (what a great guy btw) just to make sure that the information in the website was current and to find out what kits he had in stock.  Decided to go with the: BORING AND BALL TURNING TOOLPOST - (MLA-13)
> 
> View attachment 381393
> 
> 
> These are mostly designed for a Southbend lathe... but I am guessing that I can make these work with any lathe... at least I hope so.


Looks like a really nice kit.  Is a mill required for that kit, or can it be done on the lathe?


----------



## Christianstark

Bought some end mills from Brento, and just ordered a Hall effect rpm kit and a 12v din mount power supply.

still no lathe…still no mill…stupid shipping issues!


----------



## GreatOldOne

A centring scope… dunno if it’s going to be good or not, but the seller was up front saying it needed some tlc. It’s on an mt4, so some jiggery poker will be required to get it to fit my R8 quill - I’ll either machine a new arbor with a straight shank, or possibly turn the mt4 down till it is a straight shank that will fit an r8 collet. The arbor is held onto the body with some screws and has some features inside the body for locating stuff. So depending on how difficult / how much of a hassle it’ll be it will probably be the later. I just hope the optics are good.


----------



## Gaffer

I’m lousy at sharpening knives, not to mention lathe tools but slowly, i get a little better each time. I bought a set of decent stones for knives and hope to master them. When i get my AIM kiln converted, i plan to try making a knife or two. These stones are grits 320, 1,000 & 5,000. The stone flattener has 120 and 180 grits.


----------



## Christianstark

I’m awful, so I got this. Works great!






__





						KME Knife Sharpener
					

The KME Knife Sharpener is the best knife sharpener we've ever used. It is simply the best knife sharpener ever invented. This knife sharpener allows anyone to get a razor edge in minutes.




					www.bestsharpeningstones.com
				






Gaffer said:


> I’m lousy at sharpening knives, not to mention lathe tools but slowly, i get a little better each time. I bought a set of decent stones for knives and hope to master them. When i get my AIM kiln converted, i plan to try making a knife or two. These stones are grits 320, 1,000 & 5,000. The stone flattener has 120 and 180 grits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 381650


----------



## Gaffer

Christianstark said:


> I’m awful, so I got this. Works great!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> KME Knife Sharpener
> 
> 
> The KME Knife Sharpener is the best knife sharpener we've ever used. It is simply the best knife sharpener ever invented. This knife sharpener allows anyone to get a razor edge in minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.bestsharpeningstones.com


I haven't seen that setup before. It looks pretty good, and I love the pistol grip base!


----------



## devils4ever

Bought bigger V blocks and a MT2 to MT3 Morse Taper adapter. V blocks will handle up to 2-3/16" (~55.5 mm) diameter round stock.


----------



## Watchwatch

Gaffer said:


> I’m lousy at sharpening knives, not to mention lathe tools but slowly, i get a little better each time. I bought a set of decent stones for knives and hope to master them. When i get my AIM kiln converted, i plan to try making a knife or two. These stones are grits 320, 1,000 & 5,000. The stone flattener has 120 and 180 grits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 381650




I’d keep your lathe tools away from the ceramic waterstones. They are soft and it’s easy to catch a corner and damage the stone. Buy a big red and green DMT stone. You’ll want use diamond for the tougher stainless knives anyways.

I bought a pack of plastic reference angle blocks for knife sharpening. Helps you set a consistent angle each stroke and build confidence. I went from a garbage free hand knife sharpener to razor sharp in an afternoon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wachuko

This  followed me home today... At least 20 years younger than the first one I bought...






Some of the drawers are in better condition than the other one I bought... and this one even has the dividers...






Some  rust in the bottom corner that I will need to fix.


----------



## WobblyHand

Just got home from a road trip.  Drove out to @rabler 's place in Indiana this week and brought home a new to me G0752Z 10 x 22 lathe.  What a long ride!  Took two days to get there, and of course, two days to get back.  Randall was great, and with the aid of his tractor (and a lot of his talent) we managed to load the lathe (and stand) into a too small Subaru Impreza.   Amazingly it all fit with a bit of creative packing.  Had tie downs to keep the lathe from going forward, and some to prevent any possible shift to the rear.




More details will be in a new post in the Grizzly section.  Tomorrow, I start unpacking the car.  When I got home it was dark.  Today's drive was 11 hours.


----------



## rabler

WobblyHand said:


> Just got home from a road trip.  Drove out to @rabler 's place in Indiana this week and brought home a new to me G0752Z 10 x 22 lathe.  What a long ride!  ...


Glad to hear you made it back safely.  Hope you can get some rest before tackling the unpacking.


----------



## erikmannie

My wife just gave the green light for me to buy a Precision Matthews PM-1054TV milling machine…on April 30, 2022. This is a full year earlier than I had previously planned to buy one.

In order for this to happen, I need to keep working six 12-hour shifts every week & not buy *anything* else for the next SIX months!

I am *SUPER* motivated to get a big mill. You can bet that I will often have that mill on my mind during the long work days.

One catalyst for this was that my buddy (who is a forum member here) expressed concern about possible (although very unlikely) disruptions to Taiwanese sovereignty moving forward. I’m sure this won’t be a problem!


----------



## Christianstark

erikmannie said:


> My wife just gave the green light for me to buy a Precision Matthews PM-1054TV milling machine…on April 30, 2022.
> 
> In order for this to happen, I need to keep working six 12-hour shifts every week & not buy *anything* else for the next SIX months!
> 
> I am *SUPER* motivated to get a big mill. You can bet that I will often have that mill on my mind during the long work days.
> 
> One catalyst for this was that my buddy (who is a forum member here) expressed concern about possible (although very unlikely) disruptions to Taiwanese sovereignty moving forward. I’m sure this won’t be a problem!



I am unfortunately VERY concerned about Taiwan.


----------



## erikmannie

Christianstark said:


> I am unfortunately VERY concerned about Taiwan.



Without getting into politics, such aggression on the part of the PRC would severely impair their export surplus (by way of widespread sanctions). 

It would be unwise to rock the boat with such an export surplus. If you’re making great money, keep doing what you’re doing!


----------



## Aukai

the 10 x 54 looks just like my 9 x 50 in stock in California, the 10 x 50 version is also.


----------



## erikmannie

Aukai said:


> the 10 x 54 looks just like my 9 x 50 in stock in California, the 10 x 50 version is also.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 382110



Thank you for that photo. I will refer to it dozens of times over the next six months.   

By the way, what do you mean “in stock”? I wonder if you meant to say “in storage”.


----------



## Aukai

The dealer has these in stock in their warehouse right now in Ca, at least when I ordered mine last month...


----------



## Christianstark

Just received a shipment of an 8 piece R8 end mill holder set from Shars. Should be receiving a care package from @Brento soon!

Now I just need a milling machine...


----------



## wachuko

Got a few things...

Adjustable parallels set
Angle block set
Pair of V-Blocks 1-5/8"
Set of small diamond needle files
Another Norton oil stone (because I dropped the one I have... now I have three of different sizes  )


----------



## wachuko

Aukai said:


> The dealer has these in stock in their warehouse right now in Ca, at least when I ordered mine last month...
> View attachment 382112



Having something like that would be soooo nice...  waaaayyyy out of my budget...


----------



## woodchucker

Christianstark said:


> I am unfortunately VERY concerned about Taiwan.


same here. I think it will fall. The chineese have been very aggressive lately. not just with taiwan, notice the new island they built and declared the area including other soverign nations as theirs, and the sea is their too since it falls in their new border.

lets call that another form of nation building.. not a good one.


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> Got a few things...
> 
> Adjustable parallels set
> Angle block set
> Pair of V-Blocks 1-5/8"
> Set of small diamond needle files
> Another Norton oil stone (because I dropped the one I have... now I have three of different sizes  )


I hope you saved the pieces of the stone.
they can be very handy. And if you have a diamond wheel for an angle grinder you can create new shapes... good for honing or shaping depending on the grit.


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> I hope you saved the pieces of the stone.
> they can be very handy. And if you have a diamond wheel for an angle grinder you can create new shapes... good for honing or shaping depending on the grit.


I saved it.  This is why I said that I now have three of different sizes... The one I dropped broke in three pieces.    So I will have four when the new one arrives.


----------



## Aaron_W

Picked up this radial drill press last week. More for the woodworking side of my shop, but it may see some use with softer metals. 




The seller had a few other items for sale so I also got this old Craftsman bench grinder and stand. I couldn't have even gotten a Harbor Fright Bench Grinder for $40.




 It was kind of funny the seller had both of these from new (1970s vintage as far as I can tell) and still had the manuals for them, but he couldn't find the other guard. He had several attachments that he used on the bare side, so he hadn't had the guard on there for a long time. The attachments came with it, a little drum sander, wire wheels etc.


----------



## Larry$

woodchucker said:


> The chineese have been very aggressive lately


Sooner or later an error will be made and will lead to China invading Taiwan. No way to stop them and no one will be willing to retaliate. 
The US policy of "One China" grants them permission. A strange policy given that the US sells arms to Taiwan.


----------



## woodchucker

Actually we should not support a 1 China, they reneged on the deal with the Brits over Hong Kong, and Biden and Xsi met recently and Xsi said they would not invade China, then a few days later said they would become one..  So we should toss the 1 china out the window ... f them.. The consequences of their lies should be a change in our policy.. we should not go to war, but we should support Taiwan if they go to war.. problem is... we no longer make anything... china holds all the cards... how f'd up we have become...  But I digress... I don't want to get into a political discussion.


----------



## 682bear

We went to the Antique Engine and Tractor Show in Fletcher, NC today. I found an old Starrett back plunger indicator...




It needs a good cleaning, but works smoothly with no sticking.

-Bear


----------



## NCjeeper

Got this from E-bay. I love the old box.


----------



## woodchucker

how many pieces did you get in that box. Rex is good steel, also my German Shedders name.


----------



## NCjeeper

woodchucker said:


> how many pieces did you get in that box. Rex is good steel, also my German Shedders name.


Just one unfortunately. Seller had already sold the other one. Still a decent buy. Glad I got the box and the other buyer didn't.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Aaron_W said:


> The seller had a few other items for sale so I also got this old Craftsman bench grinder and stand. I couldn't have even gotten a Harbor Fright Bench Grinder for $40.
> 
> View attachment 382172
> 
> 
> It was kind of funny the seller had both of these from new (1970s vintage as far as I can tell) and still had the manuals for them, but he couldn't find the other guard. He had several attachments that he used on the bare side, so he hadn't had the guard on there for a long time. The attachments came with it, a little drum sander, wire wheels etc.


Nice, I've had one of those for several years and used the snot out of it. Still going strong!


----------



## Watchwatch

I’m also concerned about the situation in Taiwan and inflation. Maybe I went a little overboard, but I’ll never need to buy another manual mill for the rest of my life 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwmay

Found a box of stuff. I guess it was worth it. I had fun digging it all out anyways. Lol


----------



## woodchucker

went to a farm show kind of thing in Bangor PA.. jacktown.org is the url.
Picked up some things, passed on some things.
And for Bruce @BGHansen a pic of some Erector sets available.

passed on these 5/16 MO-MAX.. I don't need 5/16 but 12 for $25 is a good price for the boxes of 12... still good for the 10.. but hey 10 for 25 or 12 for 25 which are you going for?



Bruce @BGHansen These are shots for you... I know you collect and make parts for them.




I picked up a set of pin gauges. I have no way other than drill bits of sizing small holes. What I really want is gauge blocks.
But this was at the flea mkt in July and I thought he would bargain.. he did .. I could not tell whether it was plus or minus.. I wanted minus figuring it would tell me when I am under my target, but it wound up being plus... But I'm not really sure it matters, as I have not used them, and do not understand the plus and minus .. why not just go one size bigger, or smaller to see if I hit the target or to gauge the size of an existing hole...???  I was missing 1 pin... once I lifted the styrofoam... This set is a USA made set, Meyer Gauge Ct... These were expensive back in the day too. the gauges look good.  Not sure how to clean the dirt of the styrofoam to be able to read the #s.. I don't really want to remove all the pins.



I got these slitting saws for a good price. I thought the angle cutter was a good buy, but it turns out it either goes upside down from where it sits now, or I turn in reverse... it also has no key, so .. I guess upside down and will self tighten.

The 5C is because I don't have 5c's and need to start collecting. this is a royal and with the nice band toward the thread should self center nicely. I need to clean it up..




Oh and the MO-MAX and REX were at bargain prices. He gave me a good deal on the mo-max, and a killer deal on the Rex 95.
I would have bought more, but I cleaned him out... Next year.


----------



## DiscoDan

Went to our local antique tool club (PATINA) tool show, auction and flea market. I sold a bunch and bought a few things. An interesting Miller's Falls brace, an aluminum c-clamp, an aluminum Lufkin folding rule, an Elgin adjustable alligator wrench and a Craftsman thermometer. Not a bad day.


----------



## Fermic

A 3" Eclipse Mechanics' Vice with one 2" x 12" square 6061 alu and 3 rods of  1" x 12" of same alloy.
Plus some tools for my lathe from Shars ebay.

0.01 mm lever dial indicator
4-pieces inch sized ( wanted to be metric but the sizing is acceptable and easy to compensate according to my metric micrometer )
A set of 0-150 mm Shars micrometers ( 0.01 mm scale )


----------



## davidpbest




----------



## Aukai

Will a Noga hold that up


----------



## Larry$

Very nice dial indicator. Big enough for old eyes!  I much prefer the white over the black that seems common.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

wow, you could read that from across the room!

Went to the scrap yard, took 200lb of assorted scrap



had fun wandering round with a friend, saw these but couldn't fit one in the back of the car



and came back with 100lb of scrap, including a bunch of galvanised tin to make my wife's Christmas present with (a metal chicken), couple of Fox shocks and some nice alu, steel and stainless



for the grand sum of 6c


----------



## wachuko

Robotic arms in the trash!!  Can you imagine just having one as a conversation piece in the garage/workshop?!!


----------



## mksj

Rohm small body  extended point MT3 live center. I have a larger Shar's extended point, the Rohm is much smaller in diameter and the bearings are like smooth butter vs. Shar's which were stiff and gritty. Amazon about 40% off of list, couldn't resist, should work well for smaller diameter work.


----------



## pontiac428

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Went to the scrap yard, took 200lb of assorted scrap


Did they charge you, or did they pay you?  I live in such a densely populated area and the scrappers' overhead is so high that I need to sell them my scrap, or else they don't want it.  Like, hey, I've got a truckload of aluminum to scrap, who do I pay before unloading here?  And which one of your tent-dwelling workers pinched my wallet?


----------



## Tipton1965

Finally bought a vice for my mill.


----------



## rwm

I don't understand how you have scrap yards that let you take metal. Here is is a one way street. You can get paid for scrap, but there is no walking around for metal to take home. I suppose I should move to Texas now.
Robert


----------



## WobblyHand

Maybe it is a local thing?  I've gone to a scrap yard that both buys and sells in Massachusetts.  Was maybe 10 years ago though.  

Haven't found a good place in NH that does that.  I can get drops and stuff like that in NH, but not at scrap yard prices.


----------



## rwm

mksj said:


> Rohm small body  extended point MT3 live center. I have a larger Shar's extended point, the Rohm is much smaller in diameter and the bearings are like smooth butter vs. Shar's which were stiff and gritty. Amazon about 40% off of list, couldn't resist, should work well for smaller diameter work.
> View attachment 382511


Can you send the link to that? I cant find in on Amazon
R


----------



## NCjeeper

rwm said:


> I don't understand how you have scrap yards that let you take metal. Here is is a one way street. You can get paid for scrap, but there is no walking around for metal to take home. I suppose I should move to Texas now.
> Robert


I went to Foils in Harrisburg all the time before I moved. You can walk around there and find pretty much anything you want. They also sell new steel.


----------



## NCjeeper

I ordered a 48" 16 gauge capacity finger brake from Grizzly back in November of last year. It has been on back order for 11 months now. I don't know how these companies are staying in business if they can not get product to sell. Got tired of the wait and bought one off of E-bay for a few hundred dollars more than the Grizzly price. Now at least I will get it.


----------



## davidpbest

Tipton1965 said:


> Finally bought a vice for my mill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 382512


Excellent choice.


----------



## brino

I first saw this item in my local used tool store two weeks ago.......










I was able to take this far apart in the store, without losing any ball bearings.......




I did NOT believe it was any kind of centre, but wondered if it could be a clutch....maybe?
But something's not right........what the heck for $29 I'll take a chance!

After I bought it and got it home I could take apart further to reveal:














Ah-Ha.................

It is a MT2 to MT2 floating reamer holder!
It initially had some dried up and stiff lubricant in it, and so the female socket part was not moving around freely.
I cleaned that up and oiled it and can now get motion in two directions.
The piece with the two keys 90degrees apart gave it away.

Normally the store owner knows way more about what things are than I do....I guess the MT2 centre in it misled him.
That was worth $29!

-brino


----------



## francist

Dandy! For future reference, the “k” in the MK is for Konus, or “taper” auf Deutsch.

-frank


----------



## wachuko

Got the castings today from Andy's ( http://mlatoolbox.com/index.html )


----------



## Aaron_W

wachuko said:


> Got the castings today from Andy's ( http://mlatoolbox.com/index.html )
> 
> View attachment 382533



He has some nice kits. I've got his die filer kit, and the diesel engine kit but haven't had the time to start either of them yet.


----------



## wachuko

Aaron_W said:


> He has some nice kits. I've got his die filer kit, and the diesel engine kit but haven't had the time to start either of them yet.



The diesel engine kit does not come with any material, correct??  If I am reading correctly, only comes with the drawings, photos, and the "O" rings...  I would need to find all the material needed to make it?

That Filing Machine kit looks great, but, for me at least, a bit intimidating to make right now...  I did find a video of the final assembly of one... Not the process to machine it, just final assembly and use:






I will need to get some big a** reamers...  He uses a motor from a Sherline mill... but reading the comments, there are lot more inexpensive alternatives to drive this tool... 

I will go ahead and order it as well... Another great project to make when I get more experience under my belt... Not sure what I will use it for, but such a great project to tackle...


----------



## Aaron_W

wachuko said:


> The diesel engine kit does not come with any material, correct??  If I am reading correctly, only comes with the drawings, photos, and the "O" rings...  I would need to find all the material needed to make it?
> 
> That Filing Machine kit looks great, but, for me at least, a bit intimidating to make right now...  I did find a video of the final assembly of one... Not the process to machine it, just final assembly and use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will need to get some big a** reamers...  He uses a motor from a Sherline mill... but reading the comments, there are lot more inexpensive alternatives to drive this tool...
> 
> I will go ahead and order it as well... Another great project to make when I get more experience under my belt... Not sure what I will use it for, but such a great project to tackle...



Yeah, the diesel engine is really just plans and O rings. No exotic materials though, so I can get everything local. That one is down my list a bit, as I want to do some simple steam engines first.

The die filer just looked kind of fun and it seems handy for some of the work I do (or more as I want to do if I ever get the time as it seems lately). The video you linked to is how I found out about it, but since then I've run across a few people that have done it, and that convinced me to get one. You can just fit the work into a 9x20 lathe, one of the ones I saw completed was in a 9x20 group.

That ball turner looks like a good project too.

Have you had a look at the Hemmingway Kits? Similar idea with a lot of interesting things, but since they are in the UK shipping is expensive.


----------



## Larry$

Bought a tailstock MT3 off set gizmo. I didn't want to off set my actual tailstock to make some tapered arbors, so... 
This item is beautifully made. I suspect that once I find my "ideal" taper I'll just leave it.  Markings are clear, Moves nicely. No nicks or dings, all exposed surfaces nicely ground. How do they manage for so cheap? Less than $60 delivered and they have to pay international shipping (relatively fast) Amazon fees, etc.?  This is a photo from Amazon, not the identical item but close.


----------



## wachuko

Aaron_W said:


> Yeah, the diesel engine is really just plans and O rings. No exotic materials though, so I can get everything local. That one is down my list a bit, as I want to do some simple steam engines first.
> 
> The die filer just looked kind of fun and it seems handy for some of the work I do (or more as I want to do if I ever get the time as it seems lately). The video you linked to is how I found out about it, but since then I've run across a few people that have done it, and that convinced me to get one. You can just fit the work into a 9x20 lathe, one of the ones I saw completed was in a 9x20 group.
> 
> That ball turner looks like a good project too.
> 
> Have you had a look at the Hemmingway Kits? Similar idea with a lot of interesting things, but since they are in the UK shipping is expensive.



Okay.  Good to know.  I will add that diesel engine as well... thanks.  And found another video where they show some of the steps of making it...






I did order both Hemingway kits for the knurling tools (Basic and Sensitive)...

Also order two of the kits from our fellow forum member D. Gray.  His Machinist Clamps and Toolmaker's clamp kits...

I have it all in their respective boxes... so if I die before I can do them, my wife will be able to place everything in the trash without issues... hahahahahahaha   Because, let's face it, I am going first... .

But I do hope to live long enough to have time to do those projects...


----------



## mksj

rwm said:


> Can you send the link to that? I cant find in on Amazon
> R








						Live Center 60 Degree Morse Taper MT3 Röhm 1243505, Small Body Diameter and Profiled Center Point, Size 04, 15mm Point Diameter: Live Centers: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
					

Live Center 60 Degree Morse Taper MT3 Röhm 1243505, Small Body Diameter and Profiled Center Point, Size 04, 15mm Point Diameter: Live Centers: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



					www.amazon.com
				



Please note that this Rohm extended point live center is probably a bit too small for general use/heavier loads, rating is something like 100Kg at 1000 RPM. It is made in Germany not Slovakia mentioned on the Amazon site. A few of my MT3 live centers, Rohm is tiny compared to the others, I also have a MT3 Skoda with interchangeable tips that is very nice as well as a large bull nose.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

wachuko said:


> Robotic arms in the trash!!  Can you imagine just having one as a conversation piece in the garage/workshop?!!


Personally I'd put it in the front living room so it could pick up my coffee and give it to me while I'm sitting on the couch  I did pick up a NOS linear rail and a little control box for the switches. There were whole control cabinets there, but I didn't recognise enough to know what to pick up.


pontiac428 said:


> Did they charge you, or did they pay you?  I live in such a densely populated area and the scrappers' overhead is so high that I need to sell them my scrap, or else they don't want it.  Like, hey, I've got a truckload of aluminum to scrap, who do I pay before unloading here?  And which one of your tent-dwelling workers pinched my wallet?


They pay, you can see the rates on the first sheet. Normally I leave the sheet with them and go have a wander round. If I don't have any "ID required" items in my intake (eg. lead acid batteries) they just subtract one from the other and I either pay or receive the difference. In this case I get a check and pay for all my out take. Same thing though.


rwm said:


> I don't understand how you have scrap yards that let you take metal. Here is is a one way street. You can get paid for scrap, but there is no walking around for metal to take home. I suppose I should move to Texas now.
> Robert


It's pretty neat, like a box of chocolates you never know what you're going to find. Last time we were there my friend found an Edelbrock intake manifold for a Dodge V8 of some sort, which he sold for $100. It'd be sad to live somewhere without a scrapyard like this, but I'm sure where you're at has other benefits going by your photos 


WobblyHand said:


> Maybe it is a local thing?  I've gone to a scrap yard that both buys and sells in Massachusetts.  Was maybe 10 years ago though.
> 
> Haven't found a good place in NH that does that.  I can get drops and stuff like that in NH, but not at scrap yard prices.


Pretty sure it is. There's an awesome scrapyard in Walla Walla WA where we lived before, but the one where we lived in PA wouldn't let you walk around.


----------



## stuarth44

mikey said:


> Bought a pair (0-1" and 1-2")of Tesa screw thread micrometers in mint condition on ebay, complete with full set of anvils and a standard. I had been using a Fowler set (Chinese) that was on a semi-permanent loan but that went back last week. I absolutely hate thread wires; I always drop them in the chip pan or on the floor ... always! I've been looking for this set for years now and it finally turned up at a price that was a comparative steal. Just the checking standard, if bought at retail, would have just about covered the cost of this entire set.
> 
> View attachment 225941
> View attachment 225942
> View attachment 225943


immaculate, our market never has stuff like this, well done


----------



## stuarth44

bought a big drawer set, on castors to stand by the lathe, alas that was weeks back lost at sea I suppose


----------



## Christianstark

Got some end mills and some slitting saws, and what look to be some gear cutting or o-ring blades. Thanks Brento! Hell of a packing job!


----------



## woodchucker

mksj said:


> Live Center 60 Degree Morse Taper MT3 Röhm 1243505, Small Body Diameter and Profiled Center Point, Size 04, 15mm Point Diameter: Live Centers: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
> 
> 
> Live Center 60 Degree Morse Taper MT3 Röhm 1243505, Small Body Diameter and Profiled Center Point, Size 04, 15mm Point Diameter: Live Centers: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please note that this Rohm extended point live center is probably a bit too small for general use/heavier loads, rating is something like 100Kg at 1000 RPM. It is made in Germany not Slovakia mentioned on the Amazon site. A few of my MT3 live centers, Rohm is tiny compared to the others, I also have a MT3 Skoda with interchangeable tips that is very nice as well as a large bull nose.
> View attachment 382572


nice, it's clearly for getting into the end of the part.. I like it. A little rich for me right now @ $222 .. but I like it.


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> nice, it's clearly for getting into the end of the part.. I like it. A little rich for me right now @ $222 .. but I like it.


Same here, clicked on the link with the intention of buying it and the price stopped me immediately... I did placed it on my wishlist...

I want a dividing head first... looking at this one on eBay... not much more than that live center goes for... from the things on my list to get, I rather get this BS-0 first...


----------



## WobblyHand

Received a 1-13mm Rohm Supra lathe drill chuck.  Got it from Amazon.  When I opened the package it was out of its cardboard box.  Basically they threw the chuck in it's little box in a big bubble wrap bag.  That's not proper packing.  Unwrapped the wax like paper from the chuck and didn't like the feel of it.  It has axial play of 5-10 thousandths.  (Maybe more, but I haven't measured it.)  If I shake it there's something loose inside.  (This is with the chuck tightened.)  The action isn't smooth, it feels like the bearings are damaged.  Sort of little irregular bumps as one opens and closes it.  It feels like a return, or a bungled rebuild.  This little chuck was going to be for my 10x22 lathe.  I'm returning the drill chuck.


----------



## darkzero

Wasn't gonna post this as I haven't been posting any of my purchases or at all lately but I'm so happy with my score I just had to!

Been wanting a bigger tapping head & was looking for one off & on for the past few years. Finally the right PERFECT one came along. Also a TC/DC model (depth control) which I didn't really care about having for the bigger one since my smaller Tapmatic is a TC/DC so that was a plus. But the best part is that it's brand new, never used, still sealed, even the box is mint, & I got it for only $350! That's cheaper than what some of these sell for used. These cost just under $1K new. Can't believe no one else bid on it! I'm soooo happy right now! I thought there would be no way I'd be able to top the deal I got when I got my smaller Tapmatic but it just happened!





Seller even included a brand new Jacobs 1/2" straight arbor which wasn't mentioned in the listing. I had no idea how big these 50 models are, still smaller than a Procunier though. My 30 TC/DC has a 5/8" straight arbor. Was planning to put a 5/8" arbor on this one too but now that I see how big it is gonna have to rethink that & probably go with R8. I was also planning to sell my 30 once I got a 50 but I don't think I'm gonna do that anymore either & keep both.


----------



## Firstram

I have regretted every tool I ever let go, keep it!


----------



## Christianstark

wachuko said:


> Same here, clicked on the link with the intention of buying it and the price stopped me immediately... I did placed it on my wishlist...
> 
> I want a dividing head first... looking at this one on eBay... not much more than that live center goes for... from the things on my list to get, I rather get this B01 first...
> 
> View attachment 382709


The link sends me to a BS-0 version.


----------



## wachuko

Christianstark said:


> The link sends me to a BS-0 version.


Sorry... I meant to write BS-0.  Let me fix previous post...


----------



## Christianstark

wachuko said:


> Sorry... I meant to write BS-0.  Let me fix previous post...


Trying to figure out what size would be best for a PM-833T Mill. Rotary table too. I should probably get the mill first though...LOL


----------



## WobblyHand

Returned the Rohm drill chuck to Amazon.  Will try another one.  Not expecting Amazon packaging to change, but perhaps the bearings on the new chuck will be in better shape.


----------



## Just for fun

Something for my mill that I hope gets here sometime after the first of the year.


----------



## woodchucker

Just for fun said:


> Something for my mill that I hope gets here sometime after the first of the year.
> 
> View attachment 382770


those look like they suck... better send them to me for inspection  especially since you don't have a mill.
I'll let you know how they are.


----------



## Brento

I always wondered how good those endmills would be


----------



## wachuko

Brento said:


> I always wondered how good those endmills would be


I have the same set... so far, they have served this newbie well...


----------



## FOMOGO

I have had that set or very similar for maybe 10 years. I've fried a few, but more my fault than the end mill. Overall they have been quite good for the small price of admission. Mike



Brento said:


> I always wondered how good those end mills would be


----------



## woodchucker

FOMOGO said:


> I have had that set or very similar for maybe 10 years. I've fried a few, but more my fault than the end mill. Overall they have been quite good for the small price of admission. Mike


so guys, what are those HF end mills.


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> so guys, what are those HF end mills.


I got my set, back in 2015, from Amazon...



			Amazon.com
		


At the time, it was the least expensive option I could find... but you need to shop around... several places carry it...









						End Mill Set, 20 pieces 2 & 4 Flute, TiN coated HSS 1244
					

The 1244 20 piece end mill set includes both 2 & 4 flute end mills. Shop this high quality TiN coated end mill set online at LittleMachineShop today!




					littlemachineshop.com
				




74.99 at Harbor Freight....









						Titanium Nitride Coated End Mill Set, 20 Piece
					

Amazing deals on this 20Pc End Mill Set Titanium Nitride Coated at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




					www.harborfreight.com


----------



## Philzy

Picked up a Scherr-Tumico 0-6" Depth Micrometer of eBay for $85, new in the box.


----------



## Just for fun

FOMOGO said:


> I have had that set or very similar for maybe 10 years. I've fried a few, but more my fault than the end mill. Overall they have been quite good for the small price of admission. Mike


That's good to know!


----------



## Christianstark

FOMOGO said:


> I have had that set or very similar for maybe 10 years. I've fried a few, but more my fault than the end mill. Overall they have been quite good for the small price of admission. Mike



Have any advice on how to run these and not burn ‘em up? I got a set myself off ebay


----------



## FOMOGO

The first set I got were HF, the second was e-bay, if memory serves. Still have most of them, including a few broken, and damaged, that will get reground, or ground into lathe tools. Mike


----------



## FOMOGO

F_eed and speed charts can help. If in doubt, slow things down a bit, cutting oil or a mister make a difference. You will kill a few, but concider it the cost of learning what not to do, and you will get better with time.  Mike_



Christianstark said:


> Have any advice on how to run these and not burn ‘em up? I got a set myself off ebay


----------



## Aaron_W

wachuko said:


> I got my set, back in 2015, from Amazon...
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com



Kind of funny but buying direct from All Industrial instead of through Amazon (also coming from All Industrial) this set is only $74.20 instead of $99. I've noticed the same thing on many of their Ebay listings where buying direct is often a better price. They do free shipping at $75 so just have to add a stick of gum to your order to get the free shipping on these.  

https://allindustrial.com/all-indus...nd-4-flute-tin-high-speed-steel-end-mill-set/

I've bought from All Industrial several times, and like Little Machine Shop their cheap stuff is still pretty good quality. They do sell higher end stuff as well, so not a seller that only stocks cheap import items. I got a pretty good deal on some Techniks ER32 collets last year when they had a buy 3 get 1 free sale on them.


----------



## Fermic

Aaron_W said:


> Kind of funny but buying direct from All Industrial instead of through Amazon (also coming from All Industrial) this set is only $74.20 instead of $99. I've noticed the same thing on many of their Ebay listings where buying direct is often a better price. They do free shipping at $75 so just have to add a stick of gum to your order to get the free shipping on these.


That's true even for Shars, you could even get a 6-jaw chuck or a nice toolmaker vise ( my lathe-mill needs something useful and the toolmaker is overkill for it ) for far cheaper than on Shars. I bought some things from there and shipped to Canada, because this is cheaper even with high shipping cost.


----------



## woodchucker

I've noticed the opposite sometimes. Sometimes it's cheaper on Amazon.  which baffles me, considering the Amazonian fees.


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> I've noticed the opposite sometimes. Sometimes it's cheaper on Amazon.  which baffles me, considering the Amazonian fees.



Yeah... Like I said... at the time (2015) Amazon had the lowest price on it...  I am not blind to Amazon prices... Always shop around to see if I can find it for less (with shipping included)...


----------



## Nogoingback

woodchucker said:


> I've noticed the opposite sometimes. Sometimes it's cheaper on Amazon.  which baffles me, considering the Amazonian fees.


I'm beginning to wonder if Amazon uses something like the yield management software that the airlines use which looks
at a bunch of variables constantly and then adjusts prices accordingly.  That's why airline ticket prices are constantly changing, and
it appears that Amazon is doing the same thing.


----------



## WobblyHand

Nogoingback said:


> I'm beginning to wonder if Amazon uses something like the yield management software that the airlines use which looks
> at a bunch of variables constantly and then adjusts prices accordingly.  That's why airline ticket prices are constantly changing, and
> it appears that Amazon is doing the same thing.


They also seem to jack up the price if you have been looking at an item for too long.  To plot Amazon prices vs time, you can use camelcamelcamel.  camelcamelcamel is an Amazon price tracker.  That can help you determine if the price is at a long term high or low, or a local max or min.  Used to be more fully featured, but is still a useful website.

Have often found that Amazon is NOT the lowest cost, including shipping.  Sometimes they are.  Have to be a savvy shopper, or you will be burned.  Kind of like most things these days - got to look out for yourself, because no one else will do it for you.


----------



## wachuko

Got this today...

SPI 98-111-8 5-axis milling stop... some material to make stuff... some already made stuff (like that circular thingy you see there)... end mills, center drills, reamers, etc.




She gave me this... I have no idea what it is or what it is for... made out of wood and brass...

EDIT: It is a Stanley No. 77 Rosewood & Brass Mortise Gauge... Will google to find out how this is used... I guess it will come handy for when doing the few wood projects I have...  Found a video on it...




Assorted material... steel, stainless, aluminum..  some stainless pipes as well.




Lots of pins, keyway material, more stainless tubing, some steel stock, etc.




All made in the USA tools… well, there is one from Brazil, two from India, and four bits from Japan… the rest is USA…

I did not check the wood drill bits... 



















She had a few more taps... must have missed those when I got the lathe...




Will take me some time to sort everything.


----------



## Christianstark

wachuko said:


> Got this today...
> 
> SPI 98-111-8 5-axis milling stop... some material to make stuff... some already made stuff (like that circular thingy you see there)... end mills, center drills, reamers, etc.
> 
> View attachment 382833
> 
> 
> She gave me this... I have no idea what it is or what it is for... made out of wood and brass...
> 
> EDIT: It is a Stanley No. 77 Rosewood & Brass Mortise Gauge... Will google to find out how this is used... I guess it will come handy for when doing the few wood projects I have...  Found a video on it...
> 
> View attachment 382836
> 
> 
> Assorted material... steel, stainless, aluminum..  some stainless pipes as well.
> 
> View attachment 382834
> 
> 
> Lots of pins, keyway material, more stainless tubing, some steel stock, etc.
> 
> View attachment 382835
> 
> 
> All made in the USA tools… well, there is one from Brazil, two from India, and four bits from Japan… the rest is USA…
> 
> I did not check the wood drill bits...
> 
> View attachment 382837
> 
> 
> View attachment 382838
> 
> 
> View attachment 382839
> 
> 
> View attachment 382840
> 
> 
> View attachment 382841
> 
> 
> View attachment 382842
> 
> 
> She had a few more taps... must have missed those when I got the lathe...
> 
> View attachment 382843
> 
> 
> Will take me some time to sort everything.


Great haul!


----------



## Just for fun

Man, That's quite a haul!  Good job!


----------



## wachuko

Just for fun said:


> Man, That's quite a haul!  Good job!





Christianstark said:


> Great haul!



Thanks.  It was the same lady that sold me the 9x20 lathe… Her husband had passed away a year ago, today…

She had a lot of 6’ long stock but I only took all the small pieces of material…

And I should have made a list…. Now I realize that I forgot to bring the two grinders I was going to buy as well…


----------



## Steve-F

Very nice collection there!!


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> Got this today...
> Will take me some time to sort everything.


you are going to have a lot of dull cutters in there. you have a few uses still for them.
some will have their tips sharp, but sides are roached,
others will have their sides sharp but their tips are roached.
others will be shot.

obviously the ones that have tips can be used to drill flat bottom holes.
sharp sides to side cut..
the tools that are shot are useful as tool steel to create cutters for your lathe, or grinding to create tooling for your boring head.

so don't throw stuff out, keep a bin for HSS that can be used to create new tools.

ya got a S load of stuff there... nice.


----------



## Brento

I got these and a bunch of drills for 5$ i said take 10$. Anyone ever hear of that brand for the machinist level? It has some rust on the bottom so i am trying to think how i could clean it off. Looks like flash rust from sitting in a moist basement in the cardboard box


----------



## Christianstark

Brento said:


> I got these and a bunch of drills for 5$ i said take 10$. Anyone ever hear of that brand for the machinist level? It has some rust on the bottom so i am trying to think how i could clean it off. Looks like flash rust from sitting in a moist basement in the cardboard box



Looks like a Starrett, with a company sticker stuck on it. I would not be surprised to hear that Exact company was short lived due to lawsuits…lol


----------



## woodchucker

3 in 1 and scotchbrite will clean it up. Or evapo rust and scotch brite.
High bridge is only about 10 miles from here. I don't know if they are still in business.
I'll have to check.

edit1: is there fluid in the vial?
edit2: I just realized I think  I know which building they were in. They are not in business anymore.


----------



## Christianstark

woodchucker said:


> 3 in 1 and scotchbrite will clean it up. Or evapo rust and scotch brite.
> High bridge is only about 10 miles from here. I don't know if they are still in business.
> I'll have to check.
> 
> is there fluid in the vial?












						On the Level:  Exact Level & Tool Mfg. Co.
					

I can't find out much information about this company, although in the photo below it appears to have been a fair size at the time ...




					progress-is-fine.blogspot.com


----------



## Nogoingback

WobblyHand said:


> They also seem to jack up the price if you have been looking at an item for too long.  To plot Amazon prices vs time, you can use camelcamelcamel.  camelcamelcamel is an Amazon price tracker.  That can help you determine if the price is at a long term high or low, or a local max or min.  Used to be more fully featured, but is still a useful website.
> 
> Have often found that Amazon is NOT the lowest cost, including shipping.  Sometimes they are.  Have to be a savvy shopper, or you will be burned.  Kind of like most things these days - got to look out for yourself, because no one else will do it for you.


Absolutely.  Amazon is like Costco in that respect: there are good deals to be had, but a lot of stuff is priced high.  My son just had to buy
a new laptop for school and since he didn't know what he needed until classes started, it was a rush to get one.  The computer he needed
was out of stock everywhere except Amazon which had one.  Their price was the highest.


----------



## Christianstark

I bought a new bench vise for my shop. Got one of the 6” forged Capri vises. Look forward to receiving it. I also bought a self healing cutting Matt. I plan on wood topping one of my General tool chests, and adding that to the top, but my floor is not so level so I may need to remove the rollers and add some leveling feet so I can also use it for a small surface plate. It’s going to be interesting figuring out how to fit everything in the shop…


----------



## Brento

woodchucker said:


> 3 in 1 and scotchbrite will clean it up. Or evapo rust and scotch brite.
> High bridge is only about 10 miles from here. I don't know if they are still in business.
> I'll have to check.
> 
> edit1: is there fluid in the vial?
> edit2: I just realized I think  I know which building they were in. They are not in business anymore.


There is fluid in the vile. I will prob use some scotchbrite and 3 in 1 like you said.


----------



## pontiac428

woodchucker said:


> you are going to have a lot of dull cutters in there. you have a few uses still for them.
> some will have their tips sharp, but sides are roached,
> others will have their sides sharp but their tips are roached.
> others will be shot.
> 
> obviously the ones that have tips can be used to drill flat bottom holes.
> sharp sides to side cut..
> the tools that are shot are useful as tool steel to create cutters for your lathe, or grinding to create tooling for your boring head.
> 
> so don't throw stuff out, keep a bin for HSS that can be used to create new tools.
> 
> ya got a S load of stuff there... nice.


Used cutting tool lots come with a wonderful silver lining- they will make you proficient at sharpening.  If you heed the call, a lot like that is a lifetime supply.


----------



## Larry$

wachuko said:


> Will take me some time to sort everything.


That's a fortune in tooling! $$$$


----------



## Larry$

woodchucker said:


> so don't throw stuff out, keep a bin


Time to buy a tool & cutter grinder!


----------



## WobblyHand

Got a couple of items in the past couple of days.  A MT4 dead center, an MT3 live center, and MT2 to MT3 adapter, and a MT3 to JT33 adapter all for my new to me G0752Z 10x22.  Also received (but was delivered to my neighbor's house?) a KPE-LE02 VFD front panel.


Ignore the home made steel tuning fork on the left.  I put it on the desk to prevent the tools from rolling.  8096 Hz, but it doesn't ring long enough. There's an art to making high Q forks.  I haven't learned that art yet.  So it's just desk clutter now.  At least I got it on frequency.


Control panel for the G0752Z VFD.  Bought it direct from Delta.  $23.15 with shipping.  Much cheaper than Amazon or eBay.  My lathe VFD appears to be unlocked.  At some point will try to add an e-Brake.

Edit: this just came in.


Much nicer than the one I returned.  Bearings are a lot better, too.


----------



## 682bear

I bought a 3 ton chain hoist from Tractor Supply...




Then I decided I needed something to test it with so yesterday I picked this up...













...just to test the chain hoist, of course...

-Bear


----------



## francist

Oh that'll keep you busy for a while...!!

-f


----------



## Janderso

682bear said:


> I bought a 3 ton chain hoist from Tractor Supply...
> 
> View attachment 382924
> 
> 
> Then I decided I needed something to test it with so yesterday I picked this up...
> 
> View attachment 382925
> 
> 
> View attachment 382926
> 
> 
> View attachment 382927
> 
> 
> View attachment 382928
> 
> 
> ...just to test the chain hoist, of course...
> 
> -Bear


Ah, 6,000# probably won’t be enough 
Looks like 4,700 pounds minimum. With a vise and fluid your over 5,000#. Vintage machinery has a catalog on it. I really like that shaper!

Your sucking pretty bad here.


----------



## BladesIIB

Purchased a small bench top blast cabinet from Cyclone Manufacturing.  The cabinet is great but the gun was not working at first.  They helped me with some troubleshooting and ultimately sent me a new gun.  Works great now.  Check out the video if you want to see the full review.


----------



## woodchucker

@BladesIIB  good review... a little pricey for a benchtop unit. But it seems really functional as the gun is minute, and you say there's no blinding cloud..
what final pressure did you settle on?


----------



## BladesIIB

woodchucker said:


> @BladesIIB  good review... a little pricey for a benchtop unit. But it seems really functional as the gun is minute, and you say there's no blinding cloud..
> what final pressure did you settle on?


Thanks, agree, not the least expensive out there.  The others all seemed to have up and down reviews so went with a US company on this one.  Seems to be running fine at 90PSI and that is where my compressor is rated at 3CFM so no trouble keeping up.


----------



## woodchucker

BladesIIB said:


> Thanks, agree, not the least expensive out there.  The others all seemed to have up and down reviews so went with a US company on this one.  Seems to be running fine at 90PSI and that is where my compressor is rated at 3CFM so no trouble keeping up.


I looked for new nozzles for your gun, I don't see them. do they sell replacements?  Nozzles are a consumable in sandblasting.  I am intrigued by the low cfm, and small footprint. I am out of space in my shop, and my compressor is only 30gal.. so it might wind up being an option...
I didn't like the hollow legs, but like you said it can be potted.


----------



## BladesIIB

woodchucker said:


> I looked for new nozzles for your gun, I don't see them. do they sell replacements?  Nozzles are a consumable in sandblasting.  I am intrigued by the low cfm, and small footprint. I am out of space in my shop, and my compressor is only 30gal.. so it might wind up being an option...
> I didn't like the hollow legs, but like you said it can be potted.


I just looked as well and only see the 5cfm nozzle listed. They sent a parts list with the unit set assume the would have them?  Maybe just not updated on the site. Parts list attached.


----------



## pontiac428

I operate along the lines where scrap metal + lathe = replacement nozzles.  Would also apply in situations where the desired nozzle isn't available.


----------



## woodchucker

that would work for a normal blasting gun. I don't think for this one I suspect.


----------



## BladesIIB

pontiac428 said:


> I operate along the lines where scrap metal + lathe = replacement nozzles.  Would also apply in situations where the desired nozzle isn't available.


True. Not sure I could make one out of Tungsten. But if easy to make then they can be 4140 and just wear faster.


----------



## rwm

You could make nozzles out of O1 and harden them pretty easily. That should last a while.
Robert


----------



## BladesIIB

woodchucker said:


> I looked for new nozzles for your gun, I don't see them. do they sell replacements?  Nozzles are a consumable in sandblasting.  I am intrigued by the low cfm, and small footprint. I am out of space in my shop, and my compressor is only 30gal.. so it might wind up being an option...
> I didn't like the hollow legs, but like you said it can be potted.


 Checked about replacement parts and this is what they sent back to me. 

“ Part # 8038 is indeed available. They are $38.50 each. They are a tungsten carbide nozzle and holder. So you simply unscrew the old one and screw in the new one.

Thanks for asking. Anything that came on the cabinet is available through us. So if you are ever having a hard time finding replacement parts feel free to contact us. “


----------



## Tipton1965

Mark Jacobs suggested I buy a CXA QCTP for my lathe instead of BXA........so I did.  It fits my lathe perfectly in my opinion.  Got the T-Nut machined yesterday and got it installed on the lathe.


----------



## Christianstark

Tipton1965 said:


> Mark Jacobs suggested I buy a CXA QCTP for my lathe instead of BXA........so I did.  It fits my lathe perfectly in my opinion.  Got the T-Nut machined yesterday and got it installed on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 383224


Which lathe is that?


----------



## Tipton1965

Christianstark said:


> Which lathe is that?


ACRA 1440C.


----------



## Christianstark

Tipton1965 said:


> ACRA 1440C.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 383226


Really nice looking machine!


----------



## Aukai

I had 2 items come in today. A 3 jaw 8" Pratt Burned Chuck, that had been put away wet, or got wet. There was some rust but no pitting inside. The Precision ground stones did a good job on the mounting surface taking down some high spots, I'm a believer. I ran the chuck up past 800 RPM, and it's smooth, no vibration....
I had the Edge technology dual DI for tramming the mill table, and one DI crapped out. I saw that Boring research had a different approach to this, and bought that one. I have 2 Mit DIs, and this will work much better.


----------



## finsruskw

Ordered this 10 days ago through Northern Tool and was able to get the Veteran discount on it and the 3 yr warranty pkg.
7.5 hp 2 stage 80 gallon tank 220 single phase.
Will be shipped to my nearest store in Davenport.
Date unknow for now though.
Meanwhile I will have to get a spot ready for it.


----------



## Janderso

Tipton1965 said:


> ACRA 1440C.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 383226


It’s beautiful.
I too have the CXA Aloris. It fits my 15 perfectly.
You need to leave some chips, it’s a bit too sterile without smooged oil and curly blue chips laying about.


----------



## WobblyHand

finsruskw said:


> Ordered this 10 days ago through Northern Tool and was able to get the Veteran discount on it and the 3 yr warranty pkg.
> 7.5 hp 2 stage 80 gallon tank 220 single phase.
> Will be shipped to my nearest store in Davenport.
> Date unknow for now though.
> Meanwhile I will have to get a spot ready for it.
> 
> View attachment 383246


You will like your Quincy.  I have the 60 gallon 2 stage.  Works great.  A lot quieter than what I had before.


----------



## Tipton1965

Janderso said:


> You need to leave some chips, it’s a bit too sterile without smooged oil and curly blue chips laying about.


There's some aluminum chips down in the chip pan right now.  I just like to tidy up afterward.


----------



## woodchucker

Tipton1965 said:


> There's some aluminum chips down in the chip pan right now.  I just like to tidy up afterward.


that will change. once you do quite a bit of work with it, no matter how clean you try to be, it will show the wear.
But that's just PATINA to those that like to name it...


----------



## Dhal22

Tipton1965 said:


> There's some aluminum chips down in the chip pan right now.  I just like to tidy up afterward.



Pics or it never happened...........


----------



## Just for fun

WobblyHand said:


> You will like your Quincy.  I have the 60 gallon 2 stage.  Works great.  A lot quieter than what I had before.


I also have the 60 gallon 2 stage unit.


----------



## finsruskw

Just for fun said:


> I also have the 60 gallon 2 stage unit.


Been thinking on this for some time now as the 40+ year old unit I now use has been sounding kind of suspect as of late and taking forever to air up.
Finally had a chance to stop by one of their stores (Rochester, MN) last weekend and actually see one 1st hand as they were the only location that actually had one in stock in this area.
Was pleased to learn they honored the Vet discount as I was rather concerned they wouldn't for an out of state buyer.
Said they could order for me and have it shipped to my nearest store which is Davenport and about 1-1/2 hrs away.
So now I have a Discover bill to pay!! GRRRR!!
Less the 1% cash back  BTW!!
Was informed several days ago it's being shipped from the vendor so all I have to do now is wait. No tracking info available yet though,


----------



## pontiac428

I've had my Quincy for about 6 months.  It is by far and away the nicest compressor I've ever used.  Keeps up with everything with room to spare, and runs quiet, decibels somewhere in the mid-high 60's (my old upright was over 85 decibels).  You're in for a treat, @finsruskw.


----------



## keeena

Just picked up the bigger brother to my Dake 1-1/2. Local find from the same guy I bought my SG from last year. I'm going to have to put his # on speed dial...


----------



## woodchucker

keeena said:


> Just picked up the bigger brother to my Dake 1-1/2. Local find from the same guy I bought my SG from last year. I'm going to have to put his # on speed dial...
> 
> View attachment 383306


but what is it? a 2 ,3 or 3 1/2???? machinists all over the globe need to know


----------



## Aukai

Those are nowhere to be found here, there is some suckage going on here....


----------



## keeena

They are both the same family & capacity (1-1/2, which is 3 ton). The larger one is the "B" model which has a 18" height between base and ram vs. 11-1/2" for the smaller one.



Aukai said:


> Those are nowhere to be found here, there is some suckage going on here....


Yeah, I saw your posts on broaching / needing an arbor press. The prices on the few that were linked on the west coast were nuts. This one wasn't a steal, but the price was definitely fair.


----------



## wachuko

125.00 spent on this...

SAE and Metric Bondhus Hex Key sets...

Grizzly 6" bench top grinder with Norton Aluminum Oxide wheels...

Wilton 9300 vise with rotating base...

1) 1/4"x1-1/4"x 6' flat stock
2) 1/4"x1-1/2"x 3' flat stock

Photos:






A friend asked me to make the some brackets extensions for his motorcycle... something simple.  Just 4 flat pieces 7" long with 1/2" holes on each end... rounded ends... figured I would get the material to do those while I was there...  Also thinking about the grinder tool post that I want to make...




Was not going to get this one... but looked too cool to leave it behind... 3" vise.


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> 125.00 spent on this...
> 
> SAE and Metric Bondhus Hex Key sets...
> 
> Grizzly 6" bench top grinder with Norton Aluminum Oxide wheels...
> 
> Wilton 9300 vise with rotating base...
> 
> 1) 1/4"x1-1/4"x 6' flat stock
> 2) 1/4"x1-1/2"x 3' flat stock
> 
> Photos:
> 
> View attachment 383422
> View attachment 383423
> View attachment 383424
> 
> 
> A friend asked me to make the some brackets extensions for his motorcycle... something simple.  Just 4 flat pieces 7" long with 1/2" holes on each end... rounded ends... figured I would get the material to do those while I was there...  Also thinking about the grinder tool post that I want to make...
> 
> View attachment 383425
> 
> 
> Was not going to get this one... but looked too cool to leave it behind... 3" vise.
> 
> View attachment 383426


you stole that for $125.
YOU SUCK!!!


----------



## Just for fun

Yeah,  What he said!


----------



## Eyerelief

I have a robbery to report!


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> you stole that for $125.
> YOU SUCK!!!





Just for fun said:


> Yeah,  What he said!



Ahhh.... I finally feel like I belong... Thank you guys!


----------



## wachuko

The anvil area on the vise is almost gone... not sure I will be able to fix that...


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> The anvil area on the vise is almost gone... not sure I will be able to fix that...


that's good, don't beat on your vise, use an anvil... or get a piece of rail.  Don't get a HF anvil... they suck and are soft.... returned mine years ago within 1 day... so bad.. copper dented it.


----------



## Papa Charlie

wachuko said:


> The anvil area on the vise is almost gone... not sure I will be able to fix that...


Well that definitely will not get you out of the "YOU SUCK" chair, at least for awhile.

Nice haul.


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> The anvil area on the vise is almost gone... not sure I will be able to fix that...


BTW, don't start that grinder without ringing the wheels. You need to make sure they travelled well, and didn't get hit since it last ran.


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> BTW, don't start that grinder without ringing the wheels. You need to make sure they travelled well, and didn't get hit since it last ran.


Thanks…I did not think about that…


----------



## Dhal22

I bought a lathe today.


----------



## Dhal22

Dhal22 said:


> I bought a lathe today.




Some more photos.


----------



## Aukai

Very nice haul, you must be excited


----------



## Dhal22

Yes I am.   I've been looking a long time.  That was a great deal as well.


----------



## jwmelvin

Dhal22 said:


> Yes I am. I've been looking a long time. That was a great deal as well.



Looks great. Very exciting!


----------



## finsruskw

WOW!!!
YOU SURE DID!!!
Congrats!!


----------



## Christianstark

New vise for the shop to replace my awful cheap big box vise. This vise is pretty slick!


----------



## woodchucker

Bought this rotary table on craigslist today.
Paid a little more than I should have, but he won... he would not negotiate.

He insisted it was a grizzly, but it's not, it's silver, not green, and no markings.
But it is a very nice unit. no crud inside, just grease... I'll probably replace the grease with Moly.
I can't get the bearings out of the center, so I'll just clean in place before regreasing.
Oil only on the points that have oil buttons.. It's missing a set screw for the gear release. it has one, but the second is open to the elements. I may just plug it.

6" I've needed one for a while, and my makeshift ways can come to an end.


----------



## Aukai

My Grizzly "Yuasa type" 8" RT is not green, it's about 5 years old. I'm glad I went to look, the salt air is getting into the box.


----------



## wachuko

Folks... what would you recommend I get first..  A rotating table? or dividing head?  I will eventually want to get both, but not sure which one I would use more...


----------



## Christianstark

wachuko said:


> Folks... what would you recommend I get first..  A rotating table? or dividing head?  I will eventually want to get both, but not sure which one I would use more...


Same dilemma here. I’m thinking rotary table first for milling radius, and dividing head later if I ever need to make gears, etc.


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> Folks... what would you recommend I get first..  A rotating table? or dividing head?  I will eventually want to get both, but not sure which one I would use more...


wait until you know what you want to do. I've had a few projects that I needed a rotating table, I don't even have a swivel for my vise. So when doing angles I have had to move my vise and clamp it down. I also used my pallet and reclamped the piece.
I was ok with that.  When needing to round edges, I would put a pin in  a piece of metal and hold it in the vise, then rotate the part, sometimes adding a handle... so when this came up I jumped. 6" tables are rare around here. plenty of larger units.. 10" and larger are more plentiful.  
there's 2 10" and an 18" right now w/in an hour drive.
the larger ones take a long time to go.

As far as your needs, if you are doing gears, simple gears can be done on a rotary table using dividing plates and a TS..
most of us don't need a dividing head.   If you do, you'll know it.

A rotary table does more than an indexing head.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

I have one of those 3" Wilton bullet vises that I bought for $50 a few years ago and love it to bits. It's super sturdy


----------



## Christianstark

mattthemuppet2 said:


> I have one of those 3" Wilton bullet vises that I bought for $50 a few years ago and love it to bits. It's super sturdy


Wanted a Wilton Bullet bad…but the SE USA is bad for machine tool availability, and it’s hard to find deals on those. Went forged instead.


----------



## Aukai

Just to finish up on my RT from above, it cleaned up ok. I keep putting oil on the oil cup, but so far nothing shows on the sight glass. The picture looks like something is there, but it's the camera angle.


----------



## Badabinski

Well, I didn't buy all of this today, but now that I have a camera that's not a pain to use and a clean work bench, here's what I bought over the past few months:

First up, a whole BOATLOAD of drills. Probably too many, honestly. My favorite is the 22" long 1/2" diameter taper shank drill. Also included are some taps (including pulley taps, always wanted some of those!), carbide tipped taper shank reamers, and extra-long #2 carbide center drills.


Here's that hilariously long drill. It's almost too big to be useful in my machine, but I just wanted it for the "cool" factor.


I'm really excited to use this geometric die head. I've been contemplating making some custom aquarium hardware, and I've heard these die heads are great for cutting NPT. Also pictured is a 5/8" solid carbide indexable boring bar, some really massive spade drills that I'm questioning the utility of, and a whole boatload of abrasive stones.


Some tuning fork clamps, parallels, a Bridgeport-brand R8 endmill holder, scales, an indexable end mill (always wanted one with round inserts), and some surface gages that need a bit of love. 


I wasn't super happy with my 4" rotary table from Little Machine Shop, so I decided to upgrade. Clickspring has said he really liked his Vertex rotary table, so I went for one of those. Seems pretty well built!


A Starrett #359 bevel protractor and a Starrett #446 1-2" depth mic. They both need some TLC, but they seem to be in good working order!


One of those old-timey Hand Tool Rescue wrenches. Probably not something I'll use too terribly much, but it looks cool!


Finally, a full set of drills from Chicago Latrobe. I have an import-quality set that's been driving me nuts. The number drills were the worst, drilling far oversize and leaving a terrible surface finish. These have performed beautifully and should last me a long, long time.



So that's basically everything. Sorry for the massive wall of pictures, I cropped a lot of them down substantially so that should hopefully help with the file sizes.


----------



## 682bear

Ok, I'm DONE buying machines... for a few days...

Thursday I drove up to Tuckahoe and picked up the old Hendey lathe that @DiscoDan has had for sale for a while...




It came with 3 boxes of parts and tooling, a 12" 4 jaw chuck, dog drive plate, and 2 steady rests.




Unfortunately, I didn't get to meet DiscoDan, but on the way up, I met up with @will.mcray and delivered a couple of K&T arbor supports that he had been looking for.

I'm tired of driving...

-Bear


----------



## Christianstark

Where did you find room for this one Bear?!? You seemed to be pretty full when I came by for that surface plate!  



682bear said:


> Ok, I'm DONE buying machines... for a few days...
> 
> Thursday I drove up to Tuckahoe and picked up the old Hendey lathe that @DiscoDan has had for sale for a while...
> 
> View attachment 383631
> 
> 
> It came with 3 boxes of parts and tooling, a 12" 4 jaw chuck, dog drive plate, and 2 steady rests.
> 
> View attachment 383632
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, I didn't get to meet DiscoDan, but on the way up, I met up with @will.mcray and delivered a couple of K&T arbor supports that he had been looking for.
> 
> I'm tired of driving...
> 
> -Bear


----------



## Christianstark

I have a similar drill set from drill hog. Hope it lasts a while.



Badabinski said:


> Well, I didn't buy all of this today, but now that I have a camera that's not a pain to use and a clean work bench, here's what I bought over the past few months:
> 
> First up, a whole BOATLOAD of drills. Probably too many, honestly. My favorite is the 22" long 1/2" diameter taper shank drill. Also included are some taps (including pulley taps, always wanted some of those!), carbide tipped taper shank reamers, and extra-long #2 carbide center drills.
> View attachment 383618
> 
> Here's that hilariously long drill. It's almost too big to be useful in my machine, but I just wanted it for the "cool" factor.
> View attachment 383623
> 
> I'm really excited to use this geometric die head. I've been contemplating making some custom aquarium hardware, and I've heard these die heads are great for cutting NPT. Also pictured is a 5/8" solid carbide indexable boring bar, some really massive spade drills that I'm questioning the utility of, and a whole boatload of abrasive stones.
> View attachment 383619
> 
> Some tuning fork clamps, parallels, a Bridgeport-brand R8 endmill holder, scales, an indexable end mill (always wanted one with round inserts), and some surface gages that need a bit of love.
> View attachment 383620
> 
> I wasn't super happy with my 4" rotary table from Little Machine Shop, so I decided to upgrade. Clickspring has said he really liked his Vertex rotary table, so I went for one of those. Seems pretty well built!
> View attachment 383621
> 
> A Starrett #359 bevel protractor and a Starrett #446 1-2" depth mic. They both need some TLC, but they seem to be in good working order!
> View attachment 383622
> 
> One of those old-timey Hand Tool Rescue wrenches. Probably not something I'll use too terribly much, but it looks cool!
> View attachment 383624
> 
> Finally, a full set of drills from Chicago Latrobe. I have an import-quality set that's been driving me nuts. The number drills were the worst, drilling far oversize and leaving a terrible surface finish. These have performed beautifully and should last me a long, long time.
> View attachment 383625
> 
> 
> So that's basically everything. Sorry for the massive wall of pictures, I cropped a lot of them down substantially so that should hopefully help with the file sizes.


----------



## woodchucker

Badabinski said:


> Well, I didn't buy all of this today, but now that I have a camera that's not a pain to use and a clean work bench, here's what I bought over the past few months:
> 
> First up, a whole BOATLOAD of drills. Probably too many, honestly. My favorite is the 22" long 1/2" diameter taper shank drill. Also included are some taps (including pulley taps, always wanted some of those!), carbide tipped taper shank reamers, and extra-long #2 carbide center drills.
> 
> Here's that hilariously long drill. It's almost too big to be useful in my machine, but I just wanted it for the "cool" factor.
> 
> I'm really excited to use this geometric die head. I've been contemplating making some custom aquarium hardware, and I've heard these die heads are great for cutting NPT. Also pictured is a 5/8" solid carbide indexable boring bar, some really massive spade drills that I'm questioning the utility of, and a whole boatload of abrasive stones.
> 
> Some tuning fork clamps, parallels, a Bridgeport-brand R8 endmill holder, scales, an indexable end mill (always wanted one with round inserts), and some surface gages that need a bit of love.
> 
> I wasn't super happy with my 4" rotary table from Little Machine Shop, so I decided to upgrade. Clickspring has said he really liked his Vertex rotary table, so I went for one of those. Seems pretty well built!
> 
> A Starrett #359 bevel protractor and a Starrett #446 1-2" depth mic. They both need some TLC, but they seem to be in good working order!
> 
> One of those old-timey Hand Tool Rescue wrenches. Probably not something I'll use too terribly much, but it looks cool!
> 
> Finally, a full set of drills from Chicago Latrobe. I have an import-quality set that's been driving me nuts. The number drills were the worst, drilling far oversize and leaving a terrible surface finish. These have performed beautifully and should last me a long, long time.
> 
> 
> So that's basically everything. Sorry for the massive wall of pictures, I cropped a lot of them down substantially so that should hopefully help with the file sizes.


what kind of work do you do that you needed those long drills? I have only a few times needed super long drills. A friend sent me one in a size I didn't have one time, while rebuilding the southbend lathe, and other times I have made long holders..

Just curious.
I have a few ford style wrenches. I do find use for them. Especially the largest one..  They can be handy, not sure that small hand tool rescue will be as handy.  Those chicago latrobe bits look nice.
The tuning fork is something I want. There have been a number of times I have needed much longer hold downs to span a hole. I used some parallels that I had and held them together   

Not sure the geometrics are npt geared, but they are nice tapping heads when you have a ton of threads to cut.  A friend has one on a turret head (manual type) and it works a charm, when he had to do 1000 pieces for a job. I was impressed.

You didn't mention the files... NOS files?

I've never used spade bits like that, not sure I know what material they are good for?  Or their purpose. Why not just drill, and bore?  I would expect  those to generate a ton of heat. I understand what a D bit does, but not those... they are big.

and what size is the vertex? I assume you went up in size when you upgraded.


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> Folks... what would you recommend I get first..  A rotating table? or dividing head?  I will eventually want to get both, but not sure which one I would use more...


I'm going to add to what I said earlier...
Years ago I asked the question here or on another forum , should I get a swivel plate for my vise. Most everyone said no.. not needed.
Well, I didn't get one, but I have needed it so many times, and I'm hoping the rotary table I bought will solve some of the issues I have had about having to cut angles. 

Just because I respond, doesn't mean it fits with what your needs are... it's just an opinion.. please always recognize, I am not telling you what to do, I am offering an opinion. Your needs will vary from mine. Everyone's needs are different. Use the info I or anyone else provides as just another way of looking at things.

Also, I will caution you (my opinion) about buying a ton of things that Utubers have, and look cool. They are cool... will you ever need them???? There are a lot of guys that buy things and can't move around their shops.. I know one person that has many of the same thing, (for many things).. he can't find any of the tools he bought previously so he buys another. His garage is so packed, you can't get in there. So he can't get the tool he needs.. so he buys another, and another... He's happy. He brags about it... I think it's a waste... he's a horder.. he won't part with anything.  So just a warning..  Things accumulate fast...  

We all like tools, and I gotta tell ya; Look to guys like Mark Frazier, that man made some beautiful stuff with a simple Southbend 9, and a Small burke (if I remember). His handle here is Mark_F and he has his own web site (group)  https://groups.io/g/homemachineshop   ... Very impressive how he did without, and made stunning machines.


----------



## mmcmdl

Somebody mention tools ?


----------



## Dhal22

Unloaded my new/ old lathe.   Commandeered my 2 boys to help,  good to get it on the floor safe and dry.


----------



## 682bear

Christianstark said:


> Where did you find room for this one Bear?!? You seemed to be pretty full when I came by for that surface plate!



This one has been put into storage in my outside shop until I finish the blue one that I'm currently working on...

You are right, though... I'm about 'Hendey poor'...

-Bear


----------



## matthewsx

Small vise and surface plate.


----------



## woodchucker

matthewsx said:


> Small vise and surface plate.
> 
> View attachment 383697


surface plate? or lapping plate?


----------



## matthewsx

woodchucker said:


> surface plate? or lapping plate?


Was advertised as a surface plate but I have used my granite one for lapping in the past. In either case it will serve my purpose for layout fine, and for $50 I'm happy....

John


----------



## woodchucker

matthewsx said:


> Was advertised as a surface plate but I have used my granite one for lapping in the past. In either case it will serve my purpose for layout fine, and for $50 I'm happy....
> 
> John


John, what I am saying is that it is not a surface plate. It's a lapping plate. Those grooves are meant to clear swarf from lapping.
You could use the plate to lap your granite surface plate. Or other metal. As far as I know, no surface plate has the grooves cut for swarf. That's a great plate for multiple uses though. I use my metal surface plate for welding, as well as other things.


----------



## extropic

matthewsx said:


> Was advertised as a surface plate but I have used my granite one for lapping in the past. In either case it will serve my purpose for layout fine, and for $50 I'm happy....
> 
> John


 To add to what @woodchucker wrote, if the lapping plate has been charged with abrasive grit, it will wear any tool you use on it.

If it is new and unused (uncharged) then I suppose you could reasonably use it as a surface plate. Or, you could have it reground/scraped to remove any embedded grit.

All this assumes it is in fact flat enough for your purposes.

On the other hand, maybe you have a few layout tools that could stand a bit of lapping.


----------



## Badabinski

woodchucker said:


> what kind of work do you do that you needed those long drills? I have only a few times needed super long drills. A friend sent me one in a size I didn't have one time, while rebuilding the southbend lathe, and other times I have made long holders..
> 
> Just curious.
> I have a few ford style wrenches. I do find use for them. Especially the largest one..  They can be handy, not sure that small hand tool rescue will be as handy.  Those chicago latrobe bits look nice.
> The tuning fork is something I want. There have been a number of times I have needed much longer hold downs to span a hole. I used some parallels that I had and held them together
> 
> Not sure the geometrics are npt geared, but they are nice tapping heads when you have a ton of threads to cut.  A friend has one on a turret head (manual type) and it works a charm, when he had to do 1000 pieces for a job. I was impressed.
> 
> You didn't mention the files... NOS files?
> 
> I've never used spade bits like that, not sure I know what material they are good for?  Or their purpose. Why not just drill, and bore?  I would expect  those to generate a ton of heat. I understand what a D bit does, but not those... they are big.
> 
> and what size is the vertex? I assume you went up in size when you upgraded.


For the drills, I don't have anything in mind, but there's been a few jobs in the past where I had to flip the part and drill from the other side. I hated that, so when the ebay listing popped up, I figured I'd go for it. I also bought them because I think big drills are really cool.

I mostly bought the Hand Tool Rescue wrench because I thought it looked pretty cool and I wanted to support his channel. It does seem like it'll be useful for stopping a nut from spinning with a bolt, but I really don't do a lot of wrenching on stuff.

I had the same experience, and I started looking out for some tuning forks after seeing Adam Booth use them. I won't need them frequently (most of my work is pretty small), but they'll be just the thing when I get back to working on my die filer.

The thing that first turned me into die heads for NPT is the trick where you clamp one of the dies in your tool post to do "single point threading" without having a taper attachment. I then learned how they worked, and decided I wanted one. I'll likely stick with regular dies and single pointing for small runs, but I'm definitely looking forward to using this thing when I have any big runs of pipe threading to do.

Yep, NOS files! There's a bit of surface rusting on them, but I think that should clean up nicely. Nice new files are expensive, so I try to grab the old stuff when I can.

Honestly, I'm kind of regretting those spade drills. I have absolutely no clue when I'd ever use them. I might sell them, or save them to use for tool steel blanks.

Yep! Went from a 4" to a 6" table. A 6" would have been too big for my little G8689, but the working area on my PM-728 is just right for a 6" rotary table. I also like that the table locks aren't stupid. The Vertex has nice cam clamps instead of a little flanged thing that requires an Allen key (and also binds up the table if you don't loosen them almost all the way...).


----------



## matthewsx

woodchucker said:


> John, what I am saying is that it is not a surface plate. It's a lapping plate. Those grooves are meant to clear swarf from lapping.
> You could use the plate to lap your granite surface plate. Or other metal. As far as I know, no surface plate has the grooves cut for swarf. That's a great plate for multiple uses though. I use my metal surface plate for welding, as well as other things.


Lapping plate it is. 

Yes, it seems plenty flat for what I need and will make a good addition to my shop.

John


----------



## Liljoebrshooter

I bought this little pile of stuff from a local antique store.   I have visited there a couple years ago and wanted to go look again. We were in the area and dropped in. Nothing earth shaking but for $53 I was pleased.
The only pieces that are not new are a couple of the HSS bits have been ground on one end.
Joe
I almost forgot,  there was a Williams adjustable hook spanner wrench that was $10 that isn't in the picture.


----------



## woodchucker

Badabinski said:


> Yep, NOS files! There's a bit of surface rusting on them, but I think that should clean up nicely. Nice new files are expensive, so I try to grab the old stuff when I can.


I get a little excited over NOS files. I thihk we all know how good the old files are compared to modern files. 

Sometimes the difference is so remarkable. Especially a new vs a used Old stock.  Been a few years since I found good NOS files.


----------



## rwm

What is an NOS file? 
Google returns: https://file.org/extension/nos


----------



## WobblyHand

New Old Stock


----------



## rwm

duh. sorry.
R


----------



## Aukai

Wrong thread......


----------



## Braeden P

Yesterday I was given a millermatic 251, a metabo abrasive chop saw and a Bosch 4 inch grinder. All were going to be thrown out! my neighbor was friends with the guy so we drove to his shop and picked them up along with 40 pounds of scrap steel. Pictures to come later! Here is his website: https://www.tirewash.com/


----------



## woodchucker

Braeden P said:


> Yesterday I was given a millermatic 251, a metabo abrasive chop saw and a Bosch 4 inch grinder. All were going to be thrown out! my neighbor was friends with the guy so we drove to his shop and picked them up along with 40 pounds of scrap steel. Pictures to come later! Here is his website: https://www.tirewash.com/


wow you SUCK!!


----------



## Gaffer

Congratulations Braeden, that is a huge score. I've seen your posts, and while you're young, you're not too young to get a suckage reply! Keep it up!


----------



## DAM 79

Here’s some goodies that arrived in the mail today


----------



## woodchucker

I like the Mit balls, I have starrett, which are full round, I think the half balls are nicer, since you can measure the bottom of the hole.  And .125 min... nice. I'm salivating over those.


----------



## DAM 79

woodchucker said:


> I like the Mit balls, I have starrett, which are full round, I think the half balls are nicer, since you can measure the bottom of the hole.  And .125 min... nice. I'm salivating over those.


These are literally like brand new still wrapped up and have the box they came in !! Lost Creek Machine I love that place and they have some good deals much better then eBay


----------



## vtcnc

2” boring head, straight shank adapter and boring hit set from Little Machine Shop.

Surprisingly good quality, better than I expected for the price. Gib in the head is saw-cut into the head so it flexes and isn’t loose. Also has small ball bearings to lock down on for the gib once your diameter is set. I replaced the set screws for SHCS. The set screws were stripping out way to easily. Otherwise happy with the purchase.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Braeden P

Here are the pics


----------



## wachuko

Still trying to decide on the rotary table... going with 6", that is set... But do I just order the table or do I order one with all the accessories??




In the mean time... received these yesterday:

Starrett 91A Tap Wrench, 1/16" - 1/4" Tap Size, 3/32" - 5/32" Square Shank Diameter, 6" Body Length
Starrett 91B Tap Wrench, 3/16" - 1/2" Tap Size, 5/32" - 9/32" Square Shank Diameter, 9" Body Length
GEARWRENCH 7 Pc. Hook & Pick Set - 84000H

And ordered today a foot pedal switch to control the portable bandsaw... that I will be fixing in place to make it easier to use... From that other thread


----------



## Larry$

wachuko said:


> or do I order one with all the accessories??


I only use the indexing plates when making a gear. The dial and Vernier on the table is accurate enough for most things. Tailstock for long work or arbors. The chuck looks very small, limiting? How does the chuck attach? Using strap clamps on a 6" RT will mean very small work pieces. All comes down to what your intended use is.


----------



## wachuko

Larry$ said:


> I only use the indexing plates when making a gear. The dial and Vernier on the table is accurate enough for most things. Tailstock for long work or arbors. The chuck looks very small, limiting? How does the chuck attach? Using strap clamps on a 6" RT will mean very small work pieces. All comes down to what your intended use is.



Thank you.  Went ahead and ordered just the table...


----------



## keeena

Braeden P said:


> Yesterday I was given a millermatic 251, a metabo abrasive chop saw and a Bosch 4 inch grinder. All were going to be thrown out! my neighbor was friends with the guy so we drove to his shop and picked them up along with 40 pounds of scrap steel. Pictures to come later! Here is his website: https://www.tirewash.com/


Another 'you suck'!   I had my eye on a MM251 a couple months ago but waited too long to pull the trigger.


----------



## rabler

Auction haul.  First machine tool auction (online) that I've purchased anything at.

They combined three 6-jaw chucks together into one bidding lot, which I won.  One is a 8" Buck set-tru.  One is an 8" Bison.  One is a 6" Bison set-tru.  Also got a 3'x4'x6"  Starret surface plate, and a collection of drill bits which also included several good sized (MT3/4) live and dead centers and two Jacobs Super Chucks (11N and 14N) as well as a bunch of drill bits and some misc odds and ends.  More on the misc odds and ends later, a few mystery bits, and a undoubtedly some stuff that will get hauled off as scrap.

The 6" Bison set-tru looks barely used.  All three of them are two piece jaws.  I'll need to buy appropriate backplates for them, D1-6 for the 8", one will go with the Monarch CK and one with the Monarch 612.  And eventually the 6" will hopefully go with the 10EE when I get around to that again.  Jaws may need replacing on one of them.

All of this (including the surface plate w/ stand) for for quite a bit less than a single set-tru 6-jaw 6" Buck or Bison chuck sells for.


----------



## woodchucker

rabler said:


> Auction haul.  First machine tool auction (online) that I've purchased anything at.
> 
> They combined three 6-jaw chucks together into one bidding lot, which I won.  One is a 8" Buck set-tru.  One is an 8" Bison.  One is a 6" Bison set-tru.  Also got a 3'x4'x6"  Starret surface plate, and a collection of drill bits which also included several good sized (MT3/4) live and dead centers and two Jacobs Super Chucks (11N and 14N) as well as a bunch of drill bits and some misc odds and ends.  More on the misc odds and ends later, a few mystery bits, and a undoubtedly some stuff that will get hauled off as scrap.
> 
> The 6" Bison set-tru looks barely used.  All three of them are two piece jaws.  I'll need to buy appropriate backplates for them, D1-6 for the 8", one will go with the Monarch CK and one with the Monarch 612.  And eventually the 6" will hopefully go with the 10EE when I get around to that again.  Jaws may need replacing on one of them.
> 
> All of this (including the surface plate w/ stand) for about what a new 6-jaw 6" Buck chuck sells for.
> View attachment 384251
> View attachment 384252
> View attachment 384253
> 
> View attachment 384254
> View attachment 384255


wow, great haul. 3 chucks all sixers... nice... and that you have the lathes for them.

Are the super chucks nice and free? good?
if you got a good price even nicer for that haul... hope you have a forklift for that granite, or at least a hydraulic table.


----------



## rabler

woodchucker said:


> wow, great haul. 3 chucks all sixers... nice... and that you have the lathes for them.
> 
> Are the super chucks nice and free? good?
> if you got a good price even nicer for that haul... hope you have a forklift for that granite, or at least a hydraulic table.


The big Jacobs is free.  No key so I'll need to see if I have one that works in the 11N.  I'll need to buy new holders/shanks for them.
3'x4'x6" granite is about 1000lbs even.  I have a tractor loader with forks that will pick up about 3000lbs, a little more if the load is close in.


----------



## woodchucker

rabler said:


> The big Jacobs is free.  No key so I'll need to see if I have one that works in the 11N.  I'll need to buy new holders/shanks for them.
> 3'x4'x6" granite is about 1000lbs even.  I have a tractor loader with forks that will pick up about 3000lbs, a little more if the load is close in.


make sure you have some weight in the back, I would hate to see 1000 lbs pick up the rear wheels and ...... it's too painful to think about.

edit:
My key for my 14N is a #3 if you need to know what you're looking for.


----------



## rabler

woodchucker said:


> make sure you have some weight in the back, I would hate to see 1000 lbs pick up the rear wheels and ...... it's too painful to think about.


1000 lbs is easy.  IIRC rear tires have about 120(?) gallons total of water with beet juice additive as anti-freeze.   I've used it to pick up a 3000lb Monarch 10EE.  The 4000lb Thompson surface grinder is dicey, in which case I put the 8' bush hog on the back, which itself weighs about 1200lbs.  That gets pretty tough on the front tires though.


----------



## rabler

woodchucker said:


> make sure you have some weight in the back, I would hate to see 1000 lbs pick up the rear wheels and ...... it's too painful to think about.
> 
> edit:
> My key for my 14N is a #3 if you need to know what you're looking for.


Thanks for the key size.

For your rigging amusement here is my 8000lb of Monarch dangling in the air after pulling the gooseneck out. That was a high pucker factor day.


----------



## rabler

Deleted, duplicate


----------



## rabler

rabler said:


> They combined three 6-jaw chucks together into one bidding lot, which I won. One is a 8" Buck set-tru. One is an 8" Bison. One is a 6" Bison set-tru.


I checked the dimensions and it looks like the Shars brand set-tru D1-6 backplate will work for the two 8" chucks so I ordered two of those.  The cost of Buck and Bison branded backplates new is pretty steep.  I'm waiting on the D1-3 for the 6" as the 10EE is at least a year from working.


----------



## 682bear

Freebie...




It's in almost new condition, and had the keys with it... free...

I couldn't turn it down! I can always use more tool boxes.

-Bear

-


----------



## Steve-F

Wow! Nice freebie:<)  I finally found a speed/feed plaque for the Compact 8 on Flea-Bay to dress up the old girl:<) Now I can shop for the proper  gears to get the power feed in order


----------



## Brento

682bear said:


> Freebie...
> 
> View attachment 384386
> 
> 
> It's in almost new condition, and had the keys with it... free...
> 
> I couldn't turn it down! I can always use more tool boxes.
> 
> -Bear
> 
> -


Im super jealous of that one. I have a red one that was used by a mechanic but damn id rather have that one.


----------



## wachuko

Got a set of soft jaws for the small vise... Tap, tap, tappy tap tap to shape them...






Hehehehehe, could not resist... I have several used tools with the previous owner's initials...  I had to start somewhere!


----------



## brino

wachuko said:


> Got a set of soft jaws for the small vise



Copper?


----------



## wachuko

brino said:


> Copper?


Yes.


----------



## DAM 79

rabler said:


> Auction haul.  First machine tool auction (online) that I've purchased anything at.
> 
> They combined three 6-jaw chucks together into one bidding lot, which I won.  One is a 8" Buck set-tru.  One is an 8" Bison.  One is a 6" Bison set-tru.  Also got a 3'x4'x6"  Starret surface plate, and a collection of drill bits which also included several good sized (MT3/4) live and dead centers and two Jacobs Super Chucks (11N and 14N) as well as a bunch of drill bits and some misc odds and ends.  More on the misc odds and ends later, a few mystery bits, and a undoubtedly some stuff that will get hauled off as scrap.
> 
> The 6" Bison set-tru looks barely used.  All three of them are two piece jaws.  I'll need to buy appropriate backplates for them, D1-6 for the 8", one will go with the Monarch CK and one with the Monarch 612.  And eventually the 6" will hopefully go with the 10EE when I get around to that again.  Jaws may need replacing on one of them.
> 
> All of this (including the surface plate w/ stand) for for quite a bit less than a single set-tru 6-jaw 6" Buck or Bison chuck sells for.
> View attachment 384251
> View attachment 384252
> View attachment 384253
> 
> View attachment 384254
> View attachment 384255


That’s super awesome with the auction score I have been watching the a lot on also and get emails everyday about them from several sites but have been super skeptical about how it all works with shipping and rigging and so on !!! Good for you tho that’s a hell of a haul !!!


----------



## rwm

I found this block of mystery metal on the sidewalk near road construction.




Clearly it was excavated after a while underground. I have no idea what purpose it served or what kind of metal is it. It is about 2" thick and looks to be cast. I am assuming it is cast iron or less likely steel. What do you think it is? I could cut it up for raw material?
Robert


----------



## extropic

rwm said:


> I found this block of mystery metal on the sidewalk near road construction.




Use an angle grinder to get down to the shiney bit.

It will look more like rawstock then.


----------



## Aaron_W

This turned up an hour away for $100. It was completely coated in sawdust when I got it.

The seller acquired it with some other tools and it just sat in the back of his woodshop for several years. He was cleaning the shop and decided it needed to find a new home. It needs a good cleaning and is missing a few parts, but otherwise seems to be in decent shape. I have the rear cover, it just isn't attached.

It is a Prazi SD300 aka Hobbymat MD65 5x12" lathe made in what was East Germany. It came with a manual with 1990 and $1649 hand written on the cover. These are supposed to be very precision lathes, similar to the Emco Compact 5. It is a lot heavier than it looks, according to the manual it weighs 97lbs. I figured for the price I couldn't go wrong with it.

It joins my increasingly ridiculous harem of small lathes...


----------



## brino

Aaron_W said:


> This turned up an hour away for $100. It was completely coated in sawdust when I got it.
> .
> .
> It joins my increasingly ridiculous harem of small lathes...



LOL!
If I found similar lathes around here for $100 I would not be able to move in the shop......

-brino


----------



## FOMOGO

Ah yes, the Harem. It's good to be the Caliph. Nice little lathe. Mike


----------



## BrianT

Came across this Heinrich vise in my local restore. It is in good condition and I think it will be a good addition. Seems rather large on the dp 220 table.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Sent from my Nokia 8 V 5G UW using Tapatalk


----------



## f350ca

Put a down payment (deposit) on my next shadow. Saddie dropped dead on me a couple of weeks ago. Life just doesn't seem right without a dog.
Only 4 weeks old, so have a few weeks till she comes home.



Greg


----------



## francist

Well isn’t she just too cute for words…


----------



## finsruskw

Purchased on a whim off C.L., showed up yesterday
Angle plate is an Anton 443-1
Jacks and a Mitutoyo DI 2358-50 that is sticky
No idea what the hairpin look alike part is for?
anyone know?


----------



## wachuko

I need to find who recommended that I buy these Starrett tap wrenches... these are beautifully made... I like them a lot!  Got them in three sizes...  The rotary table arrived... The dial is not that intuitive... I need to figure out how to read it (came with index plates... the plates, after cleaning, are in that bag with the blue paper towel); Also got some diamond and regular small files; the foot pedal for the portable bandsaw project; some green belt for the pulley belt for the sewing machine project... 




But those tap wrenches man, wow, they feel so good to hold... Thank you for the recommendation!!


----------



## francist

finsruskw said:


> No idea what the hairpin look alike part is for?


I think it allows you to use your thumb to retract the indicator plunger?


----------



## NCjeeper

Yep Starrett tap wrenches are the bomb.


----------



## woodchucker

f350ca said:


> Put a down payment (deposit) on my next shadow. Saddie dropped dead on me a couple of weeks ago. Life just doesn't seem right without a dog.
> Only 4 weeks old, so have a few weeks till she comes home.
> View attachment 384608
> 
> 
> Greg


I'm so sorry Greg. She was a beautiful dog the way she shadowed you and rode with you everywhere. While I only knew her from pictures and your descriptions, I got a feeling for her. Tears in Heaven..

That's a cute little furball. small paws...


----------



## mattthemuppet2

f350ca said:


> Put a down payment (deposit) on my next shadow. Saddie dropped dead on me a couple of weeks ago. Life just doesn't seem right without a dog.
> Only 4 weeks old, so have a few weeks till she comes home.
> View attachment 384608
> 
> 
> Greg


I'm really sorry to hear about your dog, but it looks like you've found a lovely new friend!

we fostered and then adopted this little pest


"helping" me teach statistics to my Genetics students


----------



## Steve-F

finsruskw said:


> Purchased on a whim off C.L., showed up yesterday
> Angle plate is an Anton 443-1
> Jacks and a Mitutoyo DI 2358-50 that is sticky
> No idea what the hairpin look alike part is for?
> anyone know?


The hairpin part, I  think, is a helper to move the indicator very smoothly, it should mount some how on the body.


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> I need to find who recommended that I buy these Starrett tap wrenches... these are beautifully made... I like them a lot!  Got them in three sizes...  The rotary table arrived... The dial is not that intuitive... I need to figure out how to read it (came with index plates... the plates, after cleaning, are in that bag with the blue paper towel); Also got some diamond and regular small files; the foot pedal for the portable bandsaw project; some green belt for the pulley belt for the sewing machine project...
> 
> View attachment 384629
> 
> 
> But those tap wrenches man, wow, they feel so good to hold... Thank you for the recommendation!!


those diamond files come in handy . they are too coarse for sharpening, but they shape real quickly.
Those are small tap handles. The smallest is very handy, I have one. The largest of yours is also handy, the middle... eh.
get some Boeshield and spray those indexing discs down.. then put them in a bag and seal them up, after removing the air. They should be fine  that way. The towel may hold moisture in it. Unless you oil soak the towel.

For sharpening, or putting a hone on carbide or even HSS these are nice.. EZ lap or DMT Dia Sharps they will put a final edge on carbide. For hss I use a translucent Arkansas stone.

Needle files are always valuable. I have a few sets and they get used a lot for small / tight work.


----------



## Aukai

I have the horizontal milling arbor spacers off of Dave's arbor shaft, in the picture the shaft looks blotchy. It's not it polished well, and that's my shirt reflecting off of it. Between Dave, and Brento I have 48 cutters from 1" wide to slitting saws, 2 1/4" to 6" diameter, and all sorts of profiles. Will I be using it a lot, no, but I have it


----------



## mmcmdl

​Looks better in Hawaii than in Fallston Mike .  I spent the whole morning clearing out my room of various tools and tooling for the next round , maybe tonight .  How many and what size gauges ?


----------



## mmcmdl

Aukai said:


> Between Dave, and Brento I have 48 cutters from 1" wide to slitting saws, 2 1/4" to 6" diameter, and all sorts of profiles.


Personally , I REALLY think you need quite a few more , but that's just my opinion !  More to come .


----------



## Aukai

Just the pressure gauge for the regulator, my compressor is rated at 175lbs.
Thank you both, Brento, and Dave....The spacers popped of on the 2nd hit on the board, after the PB Blaster overnight. I was up after midnight looking at what some of the profiles are used for.  This is whole other rabbit hole......


----------



## mmcmdl

Got it . Aren't holes fun ? I found all my info on the Clausing and BP hiding out in a drawer in my room awhile ago . Been looking for them for quite some time . I removed 3 trash cans full of old paperwork and crap also . All will be going into the firepit in an hour .


----------



## ttabbal

If @Aukai keeps importing tooling, he's going to sink the island!


----------



## mmcmdl

ttabbal said:


> If @Aukai keeps importing tooling, he's going to sink the island!


I'm here to help !


----------



## wachuko

Eventually, I want one of those 4x6 bandsaws... but at the moment I do not have the space for it... So ended up ordering this one yesterday.

4-7/8"x5" capacity... benchtop bandsaw.

Also ordered a Starrett blade for it. 56.5" Length, 1/2" Width, 0.025" Thick, 8-12 TPI... it was the only one that I could find from Starrett... need to read some and determine what would be a good blade (TPI) for tool steel... 

I think, if I understood correctly, that I need something like 24 TPI for steel and stainless; and 8-12 for softer metals??



I later plan to make a table attachment for it... like this guy did:


----------



## Weldingrod1

Let me know what you think of this!!! I've seen its brothers at First Robotics competitions....

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## FOMOGO

I have that same saw, branded as Baliegh. Bought it used, and though I have much larger saws, it is my go to for most things. Think you will be happy with it. Mike


----------



## Nogoingback

wachuko said:


> Eventually, I want one of those 4x6 bandsaws... but at the moment I do not have the space for it... So ended up ordering this one yesterday.
> 
> 4-7/8"x5" capacity... benchtop bandsaw.
> 
> Also ordered a Starrett blade for it. 56.5" Length, 1/2" Width, 0.025" Thick, 8-12 TPI... it was the only one that I could find from Starrett... need to read some and determine what would be a good blade (TPI) for tool steel...
> 
> I think, if I understood correctly, that I need something like 24 TPI for steel and stainless; and 8-12 for softer metals??
> View attachment 384853
> 
> 
> I later plan to make a table attachment for it... like this guy did:


After you have a chance to use it some, can you tell us what you think?


----------



## sdelivery

A couple end mills.......


----------



## Aaron_W

wachuko said:


> Eventually, I want one of those 4x6 bandsaws... but at the moment I do not have the space for it... So ended up ordering this one yesterday.
> 
> 4-7/8"x5" capacity... benchtop bandsaw.
> 
> Also ordered a Starrett blade for it. 56.5" Length, 1/2" Width, 0.025" Thick, 8-12 TPI... it was the only one that I could find from Starrett... need to read some and determine what would be a good blade (TPI) for tool steel...
> 
> I think, if I understood correctly, that I need something like 24 TPI for steel and stainless; and 8-12 for softer metals??
> View attachment 384853
> 
> 
> I later plan to make a table attachment for it... like this guy did:



TPI is more about thickness than material. You want at least 3-4 teeth engaged so with 12 TPI you won't want to be cutting much under 1/4", but that will be a good blade for cutting larger stock. 10-14 TPI is a common general purpose blade. Just make sure you get a good bi-metal blade.

Since I now have 2 horizontal bandsaws I set up my HF 4x6" with a 24TPI blade and mostly use it for cutting tubing and light angle iron which is often 1/8" wall. I put a 10-14 TPI on my 6x10" Kalamazoo and use it for heavier materials. I use tubing a lot for welding projects, so when the bigger bandsaw came home it made sense to me to dedicate a bandsaw to thin materials instead of doing frequent blade changes.

I'd be interested to see how the blade changes are done on this saw. The 4x6" has an annoying blade change which takes me about 10 minutes, several screws to undo, and a few parts that have to be removed or at least moved out of the way. The larger HF/Jet/Grizzly 7x12 is a little better, but still kind of slow. The Kalamazoo on the other hand is very quick and easy, I can change a blade in about 2 minutes. I suspect part of the difference is safety related. The Kalamazoo is a pre-1970 model so the blade and moving parts are more exposed. It could be done, but you would have to be a special kind of idiot to get a body part wrapped up in the moving bits.


----------



## wachuko

Ohh... so TPI selection is more thickness related than type of material.  Got it.  Found a couple of charts on it.


----------



## wachuko

Nogoingback said:


> After you have a chance to use it some, can you tell us what you think?





Weldingrod1 said:


> Let me know what you think of this!!! I've seen its brothers at First Robotics competitions....



Will do!!



FOMOGO said:


> I have that same saw, branded as Baliegh. Bought it used, and though I have much larger saws, it is my go to for most things. Think you will be happy with it. Mike



This is what I have gather from all the searches and videos I have checked.  Glad to have someone here in the forum confirm as well.

This is similar to the Grizzly G0885, Klutch, etc.  Some slight differences like the lack of a stop jig (I will need to make one), and a spring helper... but it was the least expensive unit that I could find...

I still plan to get a 4x6 (maybe the Grizzly G0926 when I find it on sale or the HF) when the space allows... but from the feedback, I think this one will server me well until then.


----------



## wachuko

When I was restoring/repairing the vise, someone mentioned that I should not use it as an anvil and to get a piece of train track for that... So I did!

It will need some work as one of the sides looks well worn... Machine the top and top sides flat... And then I need to learn how to harden the top (already searching and watching a few videos on that)...


----------



## Just for fun

wachuko said:


> Eventually, I want one of those 4x6 bandsaws... but at the moment I do not have the space for it... So ended up ordering this one yesterday.
> 
> 4-7/8"x5" capacity... benchtop bandsaw.
> 
> Also ordered a Starrett blade for it. 56.5" Length, 1/2" Width, 0.025" Thick, 8-12 TPI... it was the only one that I could find from Starrett... need to read some and determine what would be a good blade (TPI) for tool steel...
> 
> I think, if I understood correctly, that I need something like 24 TPI for steel and stainless; and 8-12 for softer metals??
> View attachment 384853
> 
> 
> I later plan to make a table attachment for it... like this guy did:



That's a good looking saw!


----------



## rabler

wachuko said:


> Ohh... so TPI selection is more thickness related than type of material. Got it. Found a couple of charts on it.


Especially for general purpose use on a vertical bandsaw, I find that I prefer to err on the side of too many teeth than too few.  Too many teeth cuts slower, too few can break teeth, but also I find that too few makes it harder to control the workpiece.  Of course, ideally I'd stock more TPI sawblades and be quicker to swap out those blades.


----------



## wachuko

Aaron_W said:


> I'd be interested to see how the blade changes are done on this saw. The 4x6" has an annoying blade change which takes me about 10 minutes, several screws to undo, and a few parts that have to be removed or at least moved out of the way. The larger HF/Jet/Grizzly 7x12 is a little better, but still kind of slow. The Kalamazoo on the other hand is very quick and easy, I can change a blade in about 2 minutes. I suspect part of the difference is safety related. The Kalamazoo is a pre-1970 model so the blade and moving parts are more exposed. It could be done, but you would have to be a special kind of idiot to get a body part wrapped up in the moving bits.


Remove six screws and the cover... loosen tension and replace.  Seems pretty easy.  I will time it when it gets here as the first thing I will do is to replace the blade that it comes with.




And based on your comment and a from a few other forum members, I went ahead and also ordered two more USA made bi-metal blades... one 14-18 and one 20-24... these are SuperCut brand as I could not find them from Starrett...


----------



## Aaron_W

wachuko said:


> When I was restoring/repairing the vise, someone mentioned that I should not use it as an anvil and to get a piece of train track for that... So I did!
> 
> It will need some work as one of the sides looks well worn... Machine the top and top sides flat... And then I need to learn how to harden the top (already searching and watching a few videos on that)...
> 
> View attachment 384878
> 
> 
> View attachment 384879
> 
> View attachment 384880



I think the trains already took care of hardening the top, many tons of train, multiple times a day x 20 years is why people recommend old train tracks for simple anvils rather than just any old hunk of steel.



wachuko said:


> Remove six screws and the cover... loosen tension and replace.  Seems pretty easy.  I will time it when it gets here as the first thing I will do is to replace the blade that it comes with.
> 
> View attachment 384882
> 
> 
> And based on your comment, I went ahead and also ordered two more USA made bi-metal blades... one 14-18 and one 20-24... these are SuperCut brand as I could not find them from Starrett...



Lennox is another popular USA brand. 

The only 24TPI I could find for my 4x6 was from a company called Imachinist, Chinese made and fairly inexpensive but I have cut a lot of steel tubing with it and it has done a good job so far. I was able to get some Lennox blades for my Kalamazoo and some Starrett blades for the hacksaws.


----------



## wachuko

Received these today... a recommendation from @woodchucker




Also got a 1/2-20 bottom tap to make the Wilton vise handles.  To make something like these:




Yes, I can get them from eBay, but what is the fun in that!?


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> Received these today... a recommendation from @woodchucker
> 
> View attachment 384897
> 
> 
> Also got a 1/2-20 bottom tap to make the Wilton vise handles.  To make something like these:
> 
> 
> View attachment 384898
> 
> Yes, I can get them from eBay, but what is the fun in that!?


They are also good for sharpening router bits (WW) you run the file on the flat.
They are good for round over bits (machinist type) again you only file the flat.
Carbide inserts can be touched up.

I use the coarser of the 3 for my WW band saw blades, I round the back so that I can scroll a little easier.

Don't know if you know this, but if you buy multiple spiral point (gun taps) , when you dull one, you can turn it into a bottoming tap by grinding the tip down. most taps dull toward the tip because they do the most work. removing the tip and further gives you a bottoming tap.. So it really pays to save them and grind them.


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> Don't know if you know this, but if you buy multiple spiral point (gun taps) , when you dull one, you can turn it into a bottoming tap by grinding the tip down. most taps dull toward the tip because they do the most work. removing the tip and further gives you a bottoming tap.. So it really pays to save them and grind them.



I come from the mindset of throwing most of the stuff away when it is broken or dull... That is, until I joined this forum.  Now I look at something and see it as raw material for building something else 

I am learning so much.  Really enjoying the trip...


----------



## woodchucker

sdelivery said:


> A couple end mills.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 384870


I think my eyes are going... looks pretty blurry to me   
Are those all the same size?  Gotta job that's going to burn a lot to get it done?   Working on Meteorite?


----------



## sdelivery

woodchucker said:


> I think my eyes are going... looks pretty blurry to me
> Are those all the same size?  Gotta job that's going to burn a lot to get it done?   Working on Meteorite?


I needed some but.....Look for some of them in the forum tooling for sale section.


----------



## pontiac428

After a two month wait, my 1-1/16 - 16 taps came in on the slow boat from England.  No worries, I'm in no hurry.  I plan to grind one down to a bottoming profile for cleaning up the barrel threads on Remington 700 receivers.  I don't want my threads oversized if I can avoid it, just good and uniform for even torque and easy assembly/disassembly following remage nut installation.


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> Remove six screws and the cover... loosen tension and replace.  Seems pretty easy.  I will time it when it gets here as the first thing I will do is to replace the blade that it comes with.
> 
> View attachment 384882
> 
> 
> And based on your comment and a from a few other forum members, I went ahead and also ordered two more USA made bi-metal blades... one 14-18 and one 20-24... these are SuperCut brand as I could not find them from Starrett...


I know you want to replace that blade, but make a few cuts with it. get to know the saw, then change it.
It's a cheap blade no doubt, but it will serve you well for a few get acquainted cuts.
if you do something stupid, you don't lose a good blade. If the saw does something stupid.. same thing.


----------



## Aukai

I have figured out it's a sine plate, and it seems more complex than I thought, but there are no manufacturing marks to see where it came from. All of the deck holes are drilled, and tapped, there are set screws on the hinges that are positive lock, not friction stop. One detachable rail has B&S stamped on it, and another MS is on the inside deck. The only other marks are on ground in pads with owners name in it. Under the hinge area there are screw/bolt threads visible that I have not figured out yet too. Here are some pictures, and the ad, any ideas?








						Vintage Tools MACHINIST Angle Plate SINE Block • Machinist Setup Blocks ☆USA  | eBay
					

Excellent working condition and very clean! Very heavy solid HSS piece.



					www.ebay.com


----------



## Eyerelief

Aukai said:


> I have figured out it's a sine plate, and it seems more complex than I thought, but there are no manufacturing marks to see where it came from. All of the deck holes are drilled, and tapped, there are set screws on the hinges that are positive lock, not friction stop. One detachable rail has B&S stamped on it, and another MS is on the inside deck. The only other marks are on ground in pads with owners name in it. Under the hinge area there are screw/bolt threads visible that I have not figured out yet too. Here are some pictures, and the ad, any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Vintage Tools MACHINIST Angle Plate SINE Block • Machinist Setup Blocks ☆USA  | eBay
> 
> 
> Excellent working condition and very clean! Very heavy solid HSS piece.
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com


Sine plates are cool


----------



## Brento

Aukai said:


> I have figured out it's a sine plate, and it seems more complex than I thought, but there are no manufacturing marks to see where it came from. All of the deck holes are drilled, and tapped, there are set screws on the hinges that are positive lock, not friction stop. One detachable rail has B&S stamped on it, and another MS is on the inside deck. The only other marks are on ground in pads with owners name in it. Under the hinge area there are screw/bolt threads visible that I have not figured out yet too. Here are some pictures, and the ad, any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Vintage Tools MACHINIST Angle Plate SINE Block • Machinist Setup Blocks ☆USA  | eBay
> 
> 
> Excellent working condition and very clean! Very heavy solid HSS piece.
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com


You can send it to me i will figure it out


----------



## 682bear

I had figured this would have been 'unobtainium'... but then I stumbled across one...




It is the moveable jaw for a Covel/ Craftsman power hacksaw. It's very common to see these saws with this piece broken or missing... it was missing from my saw.

This one showed up on ebay the other day... I had been looking for one for 6 months. I probably paid too much, but when you need that *one* piece to finish a project... well, enough said...

-Bear


----------



## brino

682bear said:


> This one showed up on ebay the other day... I had been looking for one for 6 months. I probably paid too much, but when you need that *one* piece to finish a project... well, enough said...



....but you hafta have done all the research to know what it is when you see it!

Congratulations!

-brino


----------



## mksj

Been doing some plumbing and irrigation work, I have been using the old style pipe wrenches/Adjustable Wrenches/Channellocks that  never seem big enough for some of my recent work. The Knipex  versions have a wider clamping range, and Zoro frequently sends me a 20% discount on hand tools which included the Knipex tools (best price I could find). So after months of procrastination, I finally decide to spring for 3 piece set of their Cobra adjustable pliers, a 16" Cobra adjustable water pump pliers and 16" adjustable wrench. The latter two 16" pliers are quite big. They all seem to be very well made and have fine adjustments for setting the jaw size, now to get them dirty.


----------



## wachuko

I have a smaller version of the first one on the left…. It is great.  It is part of my motorcycle toolkit.

I have the set with the three larger ones on my public wishlist…. To see if I get it for Christmas!!


----------



## Just for fun

Somthing for the mill, when ever it gets here! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


----------



## jwmelvin

^ I love pliers-wrenches. Only have one pair and feel like I need more.


----------



## bfk

Got these two at auction yesterday. 
An anvil of unusual size. 


it came as a lot with a little vise.


The swivel base is marked “Made in Japan.” It may have a date stamp somewhere but I haven’t found it. Here’s the model ID.




Very smooth operation, looks like original paint. Built like a tank, but not as light. 
My wife suggests the anvil would be good for making horseshoes for mice.
At $35 for both I’m not feeling too ripped off.


----------



## woodchucker

it could be a sample of a full size anvil, maybe a jewlers anvil, or maybe someone made it for a gift.


----------



## FOMOGO

The anvil looks shop made. Nice vise, and a killer price. Mike


----------



## 682bear

Over the weekend my wife and I were out just killing time and decided to go into a salvage (junk) store just to see what they had. In the kitchen goods area, on the shelf with the cups and plates, I spotted this...




I didn't know what normal retail price would be on a 6 inch Wilton clamp, but took a chance at $30... I guess that was ok, Amazon has this clamp listed for $48... may find it cheaper than Amazon somewhere, but I won't look too hard, I'd rather feel like I got a good deal!

-Bear


----------



## francist

For clamping your fry pans down to the stove, no doubt….


----------



## Janderso

I am very impressed.
I bought this 1/2" capacity keyless chuck from Shars.
For less than $30. It's smooth as silk, any runout is not noticeable drilling with a 1/4" drill bit.
I bought this chuck to put on the drill press i'm rebuilding to sell.
I have no idea how long it will stay in this condition???





__





						1/32-1/2" JT33 Heavy Duty Keyless Drill Chuck
					

Shars Tool




					www.shars.com


----------



## tonydi

Looks good, @Janderso but the fine print says:

"_A drill chuck wrench MUST be used to tighten the drill chuck to give it enough torque. Tightening by hand would cause damage internally due to insufficient torque and would void the manufacturer warranty." _ 

I've been considering buying a keyless chuck for my mini-mill but this sorta defeats the purpose of a keyless chuck, no?  Is this common for most keyless chucks and people just ignore that warning or what?


----------



## vocatexas

Went to an estate auction Saturday. Old fellow that had passed away was a machinist. I ended up buying a Sajo universal horizontal mill, with vertical head and dividing head plus a ton of tooling. I believe it's a UF-48. Anybody here have any experience with one of these? It looks to be a very well built machine. Made in Sweden in the '50s.


----------



## Aukai

What ESP channel are we on to see pictures


----------



## JRaut

vocatexas said:


> Went to an estate auction Saturday. Old fellow that had passed away was a machinist. I ended up buying a Sajo universal horizontal mill, with vertical head and dividing head plus a ton of tooling. I believe it's a UF-48. Anybody here have any experience with one of these? It looks to be a very well built machine. Made in Sweden in the '50s.



I nearly bought one of those years ago. The one I had looked at had a "universal table," or that's what I think it was called anyway. The table could swing something like 15-degrees either way. The table travel would then be inclined with respect to the y-axis to help with cutting helices (helical gears, helical fluted cutting tools, etc.).

Probably would have never used the feature myself, but I still kick myself occasionally for not buying it. Conversation-starter for geeks, at the very least.

Yours being the "universal" model, sounds like that's what you got.

Congrats!


----------



## Gaffer

This bad boy was on my porch when I got home from work today. This one comes with the machine and hand torches. It’s an upgrade for my CNC system. It’ll be another week or two before the THC arrives. Then it’s game on, I hope.


----------



## Janderso

tonydi said:


> Looks good, @Janderso but the fine print says:
> 
> "_A drill chuck wrench MUST be used to tighten the drill chuck to give it enough torque. Tightening by hand would cause damage internally due to insufficient torque and would void the manufacturer warranty." _
> 
> I've been considering buying a keyless chuck for my mini-mill but this sorta defeats the purpose of a keyless chuck, no?  Is this common for most keyless chucks and people just ignore that warning or what?


Whoa, I didn't see that.
I looked at the related products, no wrench listed??
I have a Rohm and an Albrecht I use all the time, hand tight does the trick.
I paid one hell of a lot more money though!


----------



## Janderso

Gaffer said:


> This bad boy was on my porch when I got home from work today. This one comes with the machine and hand torches. It’s an upgrade for my CNC system. It’ll be another week or two before the THC arrives. Then it’s game on, I hope.
> View attachment 385599


I have the same unit. It's awesome


----------



## wachuko

Gaffer said:


> This bad boy was on my porch when I got home from work today. This one comes with the machine and hand torches. It’s an upgrade for my CNC system. It’ll be another week or two before the THC arrives. Then it’s game on, I hope.
> View attachment 385599



Sweet!!! Enjoy!!

That is another tool on my wish list... along with a Crossfire Pro plasma table...  Right now I just have an inexpensive plasma cutter that I use freehand...


----------



## NCjeeper

I bought a set of your standard import ER32 hex and square blocks. These are not tool steel as advertised and they are not hardened and ground. Just soft steel. I got a refund but buyer beware.


----------



## WobblyHand

NCjeeper said:


> I bought a set of your standard import ER32 hex and square blocks. These are not tool steel as advertised and they are not hardened and ground. Just soft steel. I got a refund but buyer beware.
> View attachment 385632


I had a similar problem on some 5C blocks.  Not hardened, but I still use them.  They were good enough for what I needed them to do, once I stoned off the burs I accidentally put into them.  I just can't go on autopilot in the shop, got to be thinking all the time.


----------



## tonydi

Janderso said:


> Whoa, I didn't see that.
> I looked at the related products, no wrench listed??
> I have a Rohm and an Albrecht I use all the time, hand tight does the trick.
> I paid one hell of a lot more money though!



Yeah, I can't find any wrench on their site that is for this chuck (or any other keyless chuck for that matter) even though the fine print tells you to look online for it.  Maybe they mean _online _online, not on Shars.com!

Well let us know how it works because it's certainly a bargain if it performs well.


----------



## tonydi

NCjeeper said:


> I bought a set of your standard import ER32 hex and square blocks. These are not tool steel as advertised and they are not hardened and ground. Just soft steel. I got a refund but buyer beware.
> View attachment 385632



Can you provide a link so we know what to avoid?  I've been looking at a similar set and there are tons of "different" ones out there.


----------



## Aukai

I have a similar Chuck that I got from precision Matthews it does have a spanner with it. I can take a picture if you wish when I get home.


----------



## macardoso

Starting some home renovations on our new house. Doing all my own trim so I spoiled myself and picked up a DeWalt DWS779, folding saw stand, and a conversion kit to turn the $400 saw into a $700 saw (DWS780) by installing a LED light and power supply    EDIT: The kit is all genuine DeWalt parts and costs $70 hence the rolling eyes.

Never owned any higher end name brand tools and boy am I impressed.

Funny part of the story is I ordered the saw online from Home Depot, but FedEx lost it. HD refunded me and had me purchase another in store locally. A few days later, FedEx delivered the supposedly lost saw. HD had been paid by insurance already so they told me to keep the "lost" saw. Couldn't figure out what to do with the second saw so I returned it and kept the free one . Paid for the saw stand, upgrade kit, a new fine finish trim blade, and a bunch of other home stuff. You get lucky every once in a while I guess. Don't worry, HD is making a killing on me right now.

Anyways, not really machining stuff, but we all like tools.


----------



## macardoso

tonydi said:


> Looks good, @Janderso but the fine print says:
> 
> "_A drill chuck wrench MUST be used to tighten the drill chuck to give it enough torque. Tightening by hand would cause damage internally due to insufficient torque and would void the manufacturer warranty." _
> 
> I've been considering buying a keyless chuck for my mini-mill but this sorta defeats the purpose of a keyless chuck, no?  Is this common for most keyless chucks and people just ignore that warning or what?


I have several Shars keyless chucks, all are well made. I think most keyless chucks come with a pin hole for a chuck wrench. Few use them and only needed for big drills. I'd say this disclaimer covers them from people putting drills in the chuck and not tightening down, then the drill spins, mars the jaws, and runout increases. This is probably the same for all manufacturers IMO.


----------



## woodchucker

macardoso said:


> I have several Shars keyless chucks, all are well made. I think most keyless chucks come with a pin hole for a chuck wrench. Few use them and only needed for big drills. I'd say this disclaimer covers them from people putting drills in the chuck and not tightening down, then the drill spins, mars the jaws, and runout increases. This is probably the same for all manufacturers IMO.


I don't think you will need it.
The key is not really a key, but a spanner. I have one and thankfully I had one when I needed it.
The problem with keyless chucks is that they self tighten. I was in back gear with a large bit, While I have many tanged bits, this I had in a regular straight shaft. The bit got so tight, that I needed the spanner to remove the bit.

Can't imagine voiding a warranty for not having a spanner to tighten it.   How is the chuck? Nice? very little runnout?


----------



## Aaron_W

macardoso said:


> Starting some home renovations on our new house. Doing all my own trim so I spoiled myself and picked up a DeWalt DWS779, folding saw stand, and a conversion kit to turn the $400 saw into a $700 saw (DWS780) by installing a LED light and power supply    EDIT: The kit is all genuine DeWalt parts and costs $70 hence the rolling eyes.
> 
> Never owned any higher end name brand tools and boy am I impressed.
> 
> Funny part of the story is I ordered the saw online from Home Depot, but FedEx lost it. HD refunded me and had me purchase another in store locally. A few days later, FedEx delivered the supposedly lost saw. HD had been paid by insurance already so they told me to keep the "lost" saw. Couldn't figure out what to do with the second saw so I returned it and kept the free one . Paid for the saw stand, upgrade kit, a new fine finish trim blade, and a bunch of other home stuff. You get lucky every once in a while I guess. Don't worry, HD is making a killing on me right now.
> 
> Anyways, not really machining stuff, but we all like tools.
> 
> View attachment 385676
> 
> 
> View attachment 385677
> 
> 
> View attachment 385678



It's ok, I think a lot of us here also play with wood. Those Dewalt miter saws are supposed to be pretty nice. I bought a Rigid 12" miter saw about 9 years ago, I was a little worried at the time how much I'd actually use it. Turns out I had no idea what I'd been missing, it gets used more than any of my other (wood) saws.


----------



## Aaron_W

I've been creeping back into playing with wood. I've never had a jointer but been looking for something small and cheap to give me some idea how much I will actually use one and a better idea of the size and features I would actually need. Thought I'd probably end up with a benchtop import (Grizzly, Wen etc) but this neat little Vintage Delta Homecraft deluxe 4" jointer turned up 30 minutes away for $80. Figured with that kind of investment I can't really go wrong. 

Based on the serial number it was made in 1959 and is in great shape for being 62 years old. From what I'm finding the "deluxe" means it has a 3" longer table (27" vs 24") and nicer features, detents on the fence adjustment at 45, 90 and 135 degrees, machined handles vs cast etc. I think in reality this is just the older 1930s Delta jointer design carried over while the basic 4" jointer was a new cheaper to make design. 

Heavy little thing, it has to weigh more than 100lbs with the stand and motor. The modern 6" bench top units weigh around 40lbs which shows the difference between all cast iron vs plastic and aluminum.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

I think I accidentally bought 700lb of welding wire for welding up nuclear reactors. I'm hoping I didn't, but won't find out until I get my invoice. That'll teach me to bid on auctions while I'm teaching my lab class!


----------



## jwmelvin

That’s a lot of welding wire! You need to figure out how to spool off small amounts and sell them.


----------



## Larry$

Aaron_W said:


> Vintage Delta Homecraft deluxe 4" jointer


Those are nice little jointers. A friend had one a long time ago. Much better than the bench top stuff. I've had 3 jointers. 6" Powermatic that I got new, didn't like it. an 8" Powermatic I got used with a safety head. Nice jointer, still have it in storage. A 16" Crescent I got for $100 that had been sitting outside. Had the tables and fence Blanchard ground, new bearings, blades & controls, made a guard, painted, good as new. Facing a 16" plank keeps you alert!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

jwmelvin said:


> That’s a lot of welding wire! You need to figure out how to spool off small amounts and sell them.


thankfully it looks like I didn't actually win that auction, must have been outbid while a student was asking me a question. There's some extra credit right there! It wasn't even easily useful wire - 3.2mm diameter. Can't say I'm unhappy


----------



## WobblyHand

mattthemuppet2 said:


> thankfully it looks like I didn't actually win that auction, must have been outbid while a student was asking me a question. There's some extra credit right there! It wasn't even easily useful wire - 3.2mm diameter. Can't say I'm unhappy


You lucked out!


----------



## francist

Larry$ said:


> Those are nice little jointers.


Indeed they are. I restored one Homecraft jointer for a friend and have a jigsaw for myself. Good iron in those machines, and lots of it.

-frank


----------



## Weldingrod1

Holy moley! 3.2mm wire!?! That's flirting with bar stock! You'd need to be welding some 25mm plate to get some use out of that!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## mattthemuppet2

well the application pdf included "nuclear reactor pressure vessels" in its list  I was daydreaming on my ride home about all the different yard art sculptures I could make with 700lb of 1/8" wire!


----------



## wachuko

Finally home. I can open the stuff that arrived…




It does come with the stop… Photos in the selling ad did not show it… Great. 

I think that I am really going to like using this bandsaw


----------



## wachuko

Impulse buy...(aren't they all??)... Walker-Turner GR35 - seems to be from around 1944-45



			http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/808/15035.pdf
		


Since it does not have the guards, nor the rests, thinking that this will be perfect for the polishing wheels...  Plus I read, in the Vintage Machinery forum, that these are a bit wimpy, so even better for polishing use... Will see once it gets here...

Needs a lot of TLC...


----------



## Aaron_W

Larry$ said:


> Facing a 16" plank keeps you alert!



I imagine it would.  


wachuko said:


> Impulse buy...(aren't they all??)... Walker-Turner GR35 - seems to be from around 1944-45
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/808/15035.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> Since it does not have the guards, nor the rests, thinking that this will be perfect for the polishing wheels...  Plus I read, in the Vintage Machinery forum, that these are a bit wimpy, so even better for polishing use... Will see once it gets here...
> 
> Needs a lot of TLC...
> 
> View attachment 385724
> 
> View attachment 385725



Careful fixing up old machinery is addictive.


----------



## macardoso

Continuing my house project assisted case of TAS (Tool Acquisition Syndrome) I just purchased a pair of Ryobi cordless nail guns (Trim & Brad) for installing trim and hanging doors. I was only going to get the one, but the pair was on sale, plus a battery and charger for only $60 more than the single tool. Great deal I keep telling myself....


----------



## wachuko

Oooohhhh, you are going to get hooked with those cordless tools...  We did the shed with them...  well, and a Dewalt sliding miter saw.  I saw that you got one of those as well, ha!  Cool!


----------



## macardoso

Yeah, they get you with the family of tools sharing the batteries. Once you have a few batteries, it is cheaper to keep buying into the family.

The battery powered nailers are pretty big/heavy, but no cord or compressor (I had both already) to drag around.


----------



## Aaron_W

macardoso said:


> Continuing my house project assisted case of TAS (Tool Acquisition Syndrome) I just purchased a pair of Ryobi cordless nail guns (Trim & Brad) for installing trim and hanging doors. I was only going to get the one, but the pair was on sale, plus a battery and charger for only $60 more than the single tool. Great deal I keep telling myself....
> 
> View attachment 385769
> 
> View attachment 385770



I've had my eye on those, but since I have some decent air nailers other new tools keep winning out. 

If these are your first Ryobi tools they are insidious, fairly cheap but a good quality home owner grade tool so once you have the battery system the tool only deals are so easy to add to your cart...


----------



## Janderso

macardoso said:


> I have several Shars keyless chucks, all are well made.


Good to hear. The price point is very desirable.


----------



## macardoso

Aaron_W said:


> I've had my eye on those, but since I have some decent air nailers other new tools keep winning out.
> 
> If these are your first Ryobi tools they are insidious, fairly cheap but a good quality home owner grade tool so once you have the battery system the tool only deals are so easy to add to your cart...


Lol, I started with the cordless drill way back in the day. Got it cheap, battery included. Now the door is open and they keep flooding in! 

Heck you can even buy a lawn mower that runs on their universal batteries


----------



## Janderso

Aaron_W said:


> Careful fixing up old machinery is addictive.


And getting more expensive all the time.

My recent drill press refurb. Paid $10
Motor $194,
Bearings $96
Belt $35
5 shive Pulley, $95
=$430.
The good thing, I sold it for $650.
I made about $5 an hour


----------



## Illinoyance

I orerd a cut knurling tool.  The flat rate box was broken and no tool.  Curse the USPS.


----------



## jwmelvin

Illinoyance said:


> I orerd a cut knurling tool. The flat rate box was broken and no tool. Curse the USPS.



I hear you but there are ways to pack pretty much anything to survive the journey.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

I'm proud of this purchase & it cost me too. 5 pound lead hammer from Keith R.


----------



## WobblyHand

jwmelvin said:


> I hear you but there are ways to pack pretty much anything to survive the journey.


The shipper didn't pack it properly.  I've had that happen to me.  Zoro dropped a Starrett 91B tap wrench into a 3x8x11 box.  No packing material.  By the time it got to me, there was a hole in the box.  No tap wrench, just a Starrett box.  I called up Zoro, showed them pictures and told them it was improperly packed.  My new wrench showed up in a few days.  It was only slightly better packed.  Shipper is taking a calculated risk of spending little or nothing on packing vs. payout for damaged or missing material.  Call the shipper.  Make them fix the problem.  They should send you another one.  If not, reverse the charges on your CC.


----------



## WobblyHand

BROCKWOOD said:


> I'm proud of this purchase & it cost me too. 5 pound lead hammer from Keith R.


What is it used for?


----------



## BROCKWOOD

WobblyHand, lead hammers are the old school variant of a non-marring hammer for the purpose of *moving material without damaging the striking surface*. Of course over time it does the deforming - but, then you just melt the head down into a ladle with a torch & recast it to like new again! Yes, I'm on the lookout for an inexpensive used mold.


----------



## extropic

Illinoyance said:


> I orerd a cut knurling tool.  The flat rate box was broken and no tool.  *Curse the USPS*.



Curse the incompetent packager.


----------



## wachuko

We have received Amazon packages... sealed... with nothing inside ... more than once.


----------



## rwm

How about this packaging?


----------



## Just for fun

Janderso said:


> And getting more expensive all the time.
> 
> My recent drill press refurb. Paid $10
> Motor $194,
> Bearings $96
> Belt $35
> 5 shive Pulley, $95
> =$430.
> The good thing, I sold it for $650.
> I made about $5 an hour



Look at that, you already have a retirement job......


----------



## jwmelvin

wachuko said:


> We have received Amazon packages... sealed... with nothing inside ... more than once.





rwm said:


> How about this packaging?



Lol at both of those. Hehehe


----------



## 682bear

The brown truck brought me a package today...

Unfortunately, it's not something that I really wanted to spend money on, but I decided I had put it off long enough...




These are the Bose over the counter hearing aids... I've been wearing them about 7 hours now, and so far, it seems like they may be ok...

It's a tough pill to swallow when you spend years diligently protecting your hearing and lose it anyway... but I guess it's just one more challenge to overcome.

-Bear


----------



## devils4ever

I picked up 4 HSS dies from McMaster-Carr to replace some carbon steel ones that I bought as a set about 30+ years ago.

They appear to be USA-made Widell dies. I'm not familiar with them. MC usually sells good stuff, so I assume these are top quality? They cost over $30 a piece. 

I'm surprised they didn't come in a case or box.


----------



## Nogoingback

Janderso said:


> And getting more expensive all the time.
> 
> My recent drill press refurb. Paid $10
> Motor $194,
> Bearings $96
> Belt $35
> 5 shive Pulley, $95
> =$430.
> The good thing, I sold it for $650.
> I made about $5 an hour


A least you MADE money!


----------



## Illinoyance

jwmelvin said:


> I hear you but there are ways to pack pretty much anything to survive the journey.


The sad part is that the part lost in the mail is one o a kind.


----------



## GreatOldOne

A genuine new old stock Jacobs chuck key, an 25mm OD countersink, and not 1, not 2 - but 3! 3 solid carbide boring bars. Daddy bar is 12mm OD, Mummy bar is 10mm and lil' Baby bar is 6mm. All from the bay of plenty.


----------



## DAM 79

BROCKWOOD said:


> I'm proud of this purchase & it cost me too. 5 pound lead hammer from Keith R.


I believe I remember seeing that hammer on YouTube on one of Keith videos?? He had like 4 of them cast . There 5 Lbs. Hammers I think and Keith also has a 3 Lbs one also


----------



## Larry$

GreatOldOne said:


> Daddy bar is 12mm OD, Mummy bar is 10mm and lil' Baby bar is 6mm


I'd like to catch a deal on carbide boring bars sometime.


682bear said:


> It's a tough pill to swallow when you spend years diligently protecting your hearing and lose it anyway.


I've had hearing loss ever since a little kid. I've had 4 different brands of aids. All seemed to suffer from problems with background noise. 
I Just got a pair of German made ones that are molded to fit my ears. Took 2 months to get them. They seem better than the others I've had. At least they don't easily fall out when I bend over. They have buttons that I can use to adjust the level of amplification which is nice. About $5K.

I've also got an insulin pump and a continuous glucose monitor stuck in me. Add in a cell phone and I'm a walking electronics ad.  Hell to get old!


----------



## tq60

After we discovered that rats had got into the forklift years ago we needed to look at repair supplies.

Not going to replace wires as 1-0 wire not cheap and we had sent back the extras to central warehouse so we will replace the last foot or so as we have supplies for that.

Had access to the commercial thomas betts crimper but while looking for terminals we saw a hydrolic one on Amazon for 60 bucks and decided to look.

The thomas betts units are 1500 or more bucks, can borrow from work but would rather own something.

Many options on Amazon so we finally found one, 11 dies and 15 ton force in decent case for 55 bucks.

It even comes with a set of replacement seals.

Instructions are funny read, but only 55 bucks.

The dies look easy to make, others had pins sticking out the side, then are just blocks so we can make custom dies for who knows what.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			











Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


----------



## BROCKWOOD

DAM 79 said:


> I believe I remember seeing that hammer on YouTube on one of Keith videos?? He had like 4 of them cast . There 5 Lbs. Hammers I think and Keith also has a 3 Lbs one also


That's right DAM 79. I knew people would comment on the state of his lead hammer in a video or 2 before - because it was practically on it's last blows. But, I looked into what it would cost to buy the parts at McMaster Carr (yes, they are all available including the mold). So, I reached out to him with the idea that since this was something he needed to do anyway, quote me a price on an extra & you're in essence getting paid to do what you would've done sooner or later anyway. So he did & I did - but he said, "Now look, I see no reason to video this again & shared the links of the 2 videos  that, sure enough, he had all ready done. That's fine & of course I've seen them ;-) I offered, "No need to mention me. Just perhaps some detail about the mold .... a little something extra to show your viewers that you do listen". Of course they were right - well, in this case for sure! I don't get to help those that I think a lot of very often - but thought this was a worthy cause. 1 of the viewers commented that this would be over $200 to source the parts (initial buy in) & I don't doubt it at all. So, for ALL Keith does CHEERS! I have spent a lot of time at the publication library that is "VintageMachinery.Org" & collected info that truthfully was free to me but would have cost me otherwise. It's a great service that Keith offers & I was glad to find a way to contribute. No names or any of that just a way to get a shout out to his fans! Well Keith explains it better than I did I'm sure. This video starting at 05:08 for those that wonder:


----------



## brino

tq60 said:


> Had access to the commercial thomas betts crimper but while looking for terminals we saw a hydrolic one on Amazon for 60 bucks and decided to look.
> The thomas betts units are 1500 or more bucks, can borrow from work but would rather own something.
> Many options on Amazon so we finally found one, 11 dies and 15 ton force in decent case for 55 bucks.
> It even comes with a set of replacement seals.
> Instructions are funny read, but only 55 bucks.
> The dies look easy to make, others had pins sticking out the side, then are just blocks so we can make custom dies for who knows what.



If you've used it and are happy with it could you post (or PM) a link to the one you got?
I would like to have one that I could make dies for.
I'm thinking not only electrical crimps, but aircraft cable sleeves, etc. (Don't worry; not for life threatening applications.)
Thanks!
-brino


----------



## jwmelvin

brino said:


> If you've used it and are happy with it could you post (or PM) a link to the one you got?
> I would like to have one that I could make dies for.
> I'm thinking not only electrical crimps, but aircraft cable sleeves, etc. (Don't worry; not for life threatening applications.)
> Thanks!
> -brino


I bought this one a year ago (was $105) to swage some fittings to 3/16" stainless-steel cable for a fence I was building. It worked well, and I've used it for other cable fittings too. I forget why I chose that one but I think it came with a larger variety of dies than some others. This was my application:


----------



## FOMOGO

Didn't buy these, got them free from a friend of my wife's, who's cleaning out stuff he's had sitting around for years from his fathers estate I believe. Starrett  radius gauges, Mitu 1" gauge block, caliper scribe attachments, Starrett protractor, and a few US made 6" rules, and an easy out
. All appear to have never been used, with the exception of one of the rules. Mike


----------



## tq60

Vevor rotary table

Been looking for years, wanted one since we made the Atmos bellow tool but just never found one...in budget.

Local store has had an 8 inch one for $500.00 is, China so pass.

They also had a unit similar to this one with all the change gears for less than I spent here but no chuck and way too tall when face up.

Discovered aliexpress some time back and have got a few things for good price.

Many options on these, many are maybe 250 but then same for shipping.

Found the VEVOR store, first found just the table but then found the tilting index unit with 3 jaw chuck, some index wheels and a tail stock for 395.00 shipped free.

Only negative is it is 40 to 1 instead of 90 to 1 but then for the few times I will use it o turn the handle less...

First project is an adaptor plate to attach a column to a wheel hub for BBQ via a flat plate on the axle studs.

Have not got it out of the box yet, really heavy and other important projects higher priority.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			








Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


----------



## Windsurfer

You are quite brave ordering from the vevor store. Web site has been up for a while, but ownership in not at all clear. Reviews that a site were not impressive. Hope the rotary table works out well for you.


----------



## Fermic

What a great day to find a free band saw.

I bought a 80 mm vise for use on my lathe's mill attachment ( until I gain enough of cash for a proper mill ), some parallels and a nice set of thread wires plus 2 free things : a carbide end mill and a band saw I found on street with missing wheel tires ( looking for quality urethane tires in Canada )

The vise got a small defect but it is easy to fix, it should be useful for my emco compact 8.




Original Pee Dee Thread Wires ( Made in USA ), I'll gonna 3D print wire holders for my mic



Replacement bearings with a newly machined pulley for my lathe






Free carbide end mill with alu bits



Free band saw with missing wheel tires


----------



## finsruskw

Picked it up yesterday after a month wait for it to be delivered to my local store from the vendor.
Now all I gotta do is make a place for it and get it unloaded!

At least I have a super nice day to do that!!


----------



## Donny

those posts make me sad and happy at the same time
Im happy that you guys buy this stuff and all I bought today was chips and beer


----------



## woodchucker

finsruskw said:


> Picked it up yesterday after a mpnth wait fo0r it to be delivered to my local store from the vendor.
> Now all I gotta do is make a place for u=it and get it unloaded!
> 
> At least I have a super nice day to do that!!


Look, I hate to burst your bubble, but that has a defective paint job, it's go orange peel. But don't worry, I'll take it off your hands, just report it to them and I am sure they'll send you a new one and let you keep the old one (which I'll take).  

enjoy your new compressor.


----------



## NCjeeper

Donny said:


> those posts make me sad and happy at the same time
> Im happy that you guys buy this stuff and all I bought today was chips and beer


Sounds like you need to get shopping. LOL!


----------



## Aukai

Got a mail drop yesterday, some stuff for the mill.


----------



## Janderso

tq60 said:


> After we discovered that rats had got into the forklift years ago we needed to look at repair supplies.
> 
> Not going to replace wires as 1-0 wire not cheap and we had sent back the extras to central warehouse so we will replace the last foot or so as we have supplies for that.
> 
> Had access to the commercial thomas betts crimper but while looking for terminals we saw a hydrolic one on Amazon for 60 bucks and decided to look.
> 
> The thomas betts units are 1500 or more bucks, can borrow from work but would rather own something.
> 
> Many options on Amazon so we finally found one, 11 dies and 15 ton force in decent case for 55 bucks.
> 
> It even comes with a set of replacement seals.
> 
> Instructions are funny read, but only 55 bucks.
> 
> The dies look easy to make, others had pins sticking out the side, then are just blocks so we can make custom dies for who knows what.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


That’s a dangerous place to live, for a rat-mouse!


----------



## woodchucker

Janderso said:


> That’s a dangerous place to live, for a rat-mouse!


I'll bet they look like a porcupine when they light up.


----------



## mmcmdl

I should start a thread named .......................What did you get rid of today ?


----------



## brino

mmcmdl said:


> I should start a thread named .......................What did you get rid of today ?


Or maybe three threads:

What did you sell today?
What excess stuff did you bury in the yard today?
What did you send to @Aukai today?


-brino


----------



## mmcmdl

Well , I did get rid of maybe 200-300 lbs of stuff , but this was offset by the tractor that showed up yesterday and my son and DIL coming in from Canada . Net gain .................................................zero of course .


----------



## brino

mmcmdl said:


> but this was offset by the tractor that showed up yesterday and my son and DIL coming in from Canada . Net gain .................................................zero of course



....unless they brought some great beer.... then you came out ahead!
-brino


----------



## mmcmdl

brino said:


> ....unless they brought some great beer.... then you came out ahead!


Not a one . Theses rules are still all screwed up . He had to drive down from Toronto , then took the Mega bus up to NY city . She could fly in to NY , and I picked them both up this afternoon after coming back to Md. on the Bolt bus . Talk about a logistics nightmare .   Daughter flies in from Texas tomorrow , my only trips these days are to the doctors offices .


----------



## brino

mmcmdl said:


> my only trips these days are to the doctors offices


You got this! 
It will be a pain in the @55 for a while, but you got this!
Brian


----------



## Christianstark

New oil can was delivered today. The bigger one is a double pump model I will be using with way oil for ball oilers. The small one is a single pump I am using to handle gear oil for the Norton gear box.


----------



## Gaffer

Congrats, they're the best, and worth every penny!  I love mine, and the gummy bears too.


----------



## woodchucker

I have one of those, it's a great oiler. I like it a lot.  But I also like my Eagles and Plews too.


----------



## rwm

Let us know if those leak at all!


----------



## Aukai

I've had to change the cover O ring on one of my three. I have the assortment case, so it was just a matter of selecting the right size


----------



## rabler

Been using a Shars face mill in my knee mill.  2.5" that uses APKT1604 inserts.   I think of it as my sliver generator, scrapes little tiny chips that are conducive to piercing your fingers.  Turning up the chipload/feed rate doesn't seems to work.  Their inserts don't impress me.
I also have a huge 6" kennametal facemill that uses SEHT43 inserts.  They have a sharp, hi positive edge and cut nicely, although I haven't tried that in my smaller mill.  I decided to buy this Glacern face mill that also uses the SEHT43 inserts.  I'm trying to use common inserts where I can, rather than creating a whole morass of them.  Both of the SEHT facemills are 45 degree, so no milling to a shoulder but hopefully better facing stuff on the mill.  Hopefully I'll get a chance to try this over the weekend.


----------



## Aukai

I would like to thank Ray(extropic) for offering to go out of his way to purchase, and deliver a US General tool chest to the pier for me. We went to the closest store, and bought whatever color they had in stock. I could have bought a Husky with their drawer layout for 139.00, but I have wanted to try the US General, I'm not disappointed, and it's cheaper than a Snap-On.


----------



## extropic

@Aukai

I'm so pleased that it got there safely.

It looks GOOD!

Since you didn't mention any dings, I'll assume it's in good shape.

I delivered it to the freight forwarders on Nov 10, so only 14 days to your door. That seems pretty reasonable.

You are very welcome.


----------



## Aukai

Safe, and sound


----------



## Brento

Aukai said:


> I would like to thank Ray(extropic) for offering to go out of his way to purchase, and deliver a US General tool chest to the pier for me. We went to the closest store, and bought whatever color they had in stock. I could have bought a Husky with their drawer layout for 139.00, but I have wanted to try the US General, I'm not disappointed, and it's cheaper than a Snap-On.


That is a beautiful fake lista. I would kinda like to get one and get rid of the one toolbox i got for free.


----------



## woodchucker

extropic said:


> @Aukai
> 
> I'm so pleased that it got there safely.
> 
> It looks GOOD!
> 
> Since you didn't mention any dings, I'll assume it's in good shape.
> 
> I delivered it to the freight forwarders on Nov 10, so only 14 days to your door. That seems pretty reasonable.
> 
> You are very welcome.


Awesome that you stepped up to the plate to help him out.


----------



## extropic

woodchucker said:


> Awesome that you stepped up to the plate to help him out.


Thanks for the kind words.

I think helping each other is what H-M is all about.
Aukai was easy to work with. He paid for my diesel fuel and surprised me by sending a very nice snack food treat too.

@Aukai needed a hand (it would be a heck of a swim), I could do it and I got introduced to freight forwarding for the first time.

Best of all, we got it done. Win - win.


----------



## Aaron_W

Aukai said:


> I would like to thank Ray(extropic) for offering to go out of his way to purchase, and deliver a US General tool chest to the pier for me. We went to the closest store, and bought whatever color they had in stock. I could have bought a Husky with their drawer layout for 139.00, but I have wanted to try the US General, I'm not disappointed, and it's cheaper than a Snap-On.



I think you will be happy with it. I have a Husky 27" with a top box and US General 26" & 44" boxes, the US General are much stouter. 
I hand picked my Husky and had to go through several on the floor to avoid getting one with the wobbles.


----------



## Aaron_W

extropic said:


> Thanks for the kind words.
> 
> I think helping each other is what H-M is all about.
> Aukai was easy to work with. He paid for my diesel fuel and surprised me by sending a very nice snack food treat too.
> 
> @Aukai needed a hand (it would be a heck of a swim), I could do it and I got introduced to freight forwarding for the first time.
> 
> Best of all, we got it done. Win - win.



It was Spam something I bet. Spam is a big thing in Hawaii. Spam flavored macadamia nuts...  


It was nice of you to do this for him, and I agree this is the kind of thing that really makes this place stand out.


----------



## extropic

@Aaron_W 

I'm pleased to say it was not SPAM.


----------



## Aaron_W

Only bought if you consider gas and effort, but another project. I might be on the wrong site, perhaps I should have joined a site for machine rescue hobbyists.
I've been looking for a wood planer to go along with the jointer I bought. Really preferred to get something vintage if possible and this turned up "free to the first person to haul it off" and only 15 minutes away.
It is a Belsaw 901 12x6" planer, yeah another wood thing... 
I'm guessing late 1940s vintage. It apparently had been outside under a tarp for quite some time (years), but it looks pretty good despite that, very little more than some surface rust. Solidly built and appears to have been well oiled / greased before sitting all these years. There is a company that offers parts support for many Belsaw planers.

I didn't think to get a photo of it all together but here it is after I got it home. It has a huge motor that probably accounts for about 1/2 the weight. I haven't found the tag but 5hp was common, "seller" said it is 240v single phase. A prior owner built a very nice wooden cabinet for it, but that is basically scrap now, the plywood is swollen and delaminating. The steel frame inside appears intact though and will probably work as the base, in fact I think it might be the original stand that was just enclosed with plywood.


----------



## Aukai

Got some stuff out of boxes, and the US General is loaded, almost ran out of room for the couple of vises I have. 6" Kurt, 2 4" Glacerns, a Palmgren, and my small Starrett.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited a Tool/flea market, I needed a multimeter and couple of wrench sockets. First to find and buy was the very small pocket size multimeter (red one) 7$ then i did some more waking and found and bought me the hand bender and punch for sheet metal 3$ after that i found and bought the LAN cable metre 4$. I also got the seller to throw in 3 new 9V batteries. Then by chance( or Murphy's law) I found and bought a new multimeter for 5$. But the buy of the day come in last, trying to buy 4 sockets for 28$ but for 40$ i could buy this entire socket set, so i got the entire set. Lots of walking but i got me some good deals.


----------



## extropic

@Aukai

Well . .  that pretty well takes care of that one.

Which color do you want next?  :<)


----------



## Aukai

I'm thinking about it


----------



## brino

GoceKU said:


> i found and bought the LAN cable metre 4$



Wow! Anything with the Fluke name here is over $100!
Tools and some exercise ..... you did great.
-brino


----------



## Aukai

I would like to thank Gaffer too for also volunteering to go get a box from HD for me. This is the bottom 2 drawers my BP horizontal attachment, and the full cutter drawer.


----------



## Firstram

Aukai said:


> Got some stuff out of boxes, and the US General is loaded, almost ran out of room for the couple of vises I have. 6" Kurt, 2 4" Glacerns, a Palmgren, and my small Starrett.



Remember the 1 drawer at a time rule!


----------



## GoceKU

brino said:


> Wow! Anything with the Fluke name here is over $100!
> Tools and some exercise ..... you did great.
> -brino


Yeah, Fluke is made in the US and they are quality manufacture, this one even after many years of use is still accurate to an inch. I'm glad to have it in my tool bag.


----------



## woodchucker

Aukai said:


> I would like to thank Gaffer too for also volunteering to go get a box from HD for me. This is the bottom 2 drawers my BP horizontal attachment, and the full cutter drawer.


Awesome that you too stepped up to the plate to help him out.


----------



## Larry42

Aaron_W said:


> It is a Belsaw 901 12x6"


My first planer was an old Belsaw. Heavy but worn badly. One of the jack screws was stripped but I used it for several years.


----------



## Aaron_W

Larry42 said:


> My first planer was an old Belsaw. Heavy but worn badly. One of the jack screws was stripped but I used it for several years.



What I was able to find online, Belsaw did not make the greatest planers ever made, but they were pretty good, tough and simple to maintain. That convinced me this would be a good candidate to restore and worth the effort to drag home.

I've been woodworking since I was a kid so 40 some years, but planers, and jointers are a new thing for me.


----------



## Janderso

Aukai said:


> I would like to thank Ray(extropic) for offering to go out of his way to purchase, and deliver a US General tool chest to the pier for me. We went to the closest store, and bought whatever color they had in stock. I could have bought a Husky with their drawer layout for 139.00, but I have wanted to try the US General, I'm not disappointed, and it's cheaper than a Snap-On.


I think these are a great value!
These pics are loading the empty USGeneral tool box.It was close!
They weigh more than I was expecting!


----------



## Just for fun

I don't buy much from Harbor Fright bot the US General tool box is a nice box.  I have a Blue one same size as the one that Aukai has.


----------



## Nogoingback

Janderso said:


> I think these are a great value!
> These pics are loading the empty USGeneral tool box.It was close!
> They weigh more than I was expecting!


Um, that shelf is pretty spindly looking.  Is it structurally adequate for that box once it's full of tools?  Great boxes
though: I bought one about 8 years ago and I think it's great.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i bought me a trim pulling pliers, I've used the old pull as hard as i can and pray non of the pins break long enough. I've also ordered couple more cheap but useful tools for cars.


----------



## vtcnc

Finally gritted my teeth and sprung for a new drill bit set. Got tired of resharpening and burning through my cheap drills bought way back in 19-god-knows-when.

116 pc. Drill Hog set. At first glance, very nice quality, three flats on the shank for drill chucks to prevent slippage. All split points. I'll report back at some point on whether it was worth the $.













drill hog 337424.png



__ vtcnc
__ Nov 29, 2021
__
drill hog




						M7 Molybenum 116 pc. split point Drill Hog set


----------



## Christianstark

vtcnc said:


> Finally gritted my teeth and sprung for a new drill bit set. Got tired of resharpening and burning through my cheap drills bought way back in 19-god-knows-when.
> 
> 116 pc. Drill Hog set. At first glance, very nice quality, three flats on the shank for drill chucks to prevent slippage. All split points. I'll report back at some point on whether it was worth the $.


I have the same set, but mine did not come with the #2 Center Drill like yours did.


----------



## vtcnc

Christianstark said:


> I have the same set, but mine did not come with the #2 Center Drill like yours did.


Curious, is it worth the extra money? Are you happy with the quality?


----------



## Christianstark

vtcnc said:


> Curious, is it worth the extra money? Are you happy with the quality?


Have not used it extensively, nor have I had to test out the lifetime guarantee yet.


----------



## NCjeeper

Christianstark said:


> nor have I had to test out the lifetime guarantee yet.


I have. Mail broken drills to Billy and he sends new ones back. Pretty painless. Only thing is that he is in California, so shipping back and forth takes a bit.


----------



## Larry42

vtcnc said:


> 116 pc. Drill Hog set.


Where were they made?


----------



## vtcnc

They shipped out of California, but their website says that they are made in Montana.


Larry42 said:


> Where were they made?


----------



## wachuko

vtcnc said:


> Finally gritted my teeth and sprung for a new drill bit set. Got tired of resharpening and burning through my cheap drills bought way back in 19-god-knows-when.
> 
> 116 pc. Drill Hog set. At first glance, very nice quality, three flats on the shank for drill chucks to prevent slippage. All split points. I'll report back at some point on whether it was worth the $.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> drill hog 337424.png
> 
> 
> 
> __ vtcnc
> __ Nov 29, 2021
> __
> drill hog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> M7 Molybenum 116 pc. split point Drill Hog set


Nice!!!  

I have those on my wish list... have not build up the courage to spend that much on a set of drill bits... Maybe when I am closer to retirement...


----------



## NCjeeper

I picked up this sweet Ames indicator off of Ebay.


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

NCjeeper said:


> I picked up this sweet Ames indicator off of Ebay.
> View attachment 387055


What a beauty~


----------



## Aaron_W

vtcnc said:


> Finally gritted my teeth and sprung for a new drill bit set. Got tired of resharpening and burning through my cheap drills bought way back in 19-god-knows-when.
> 
> 116 pc. Drill Hog set. At first glance, very nice quality, three flats on the shank for drill chucks to prevent slippage. All split points. I'll report back at some point on whether it was worth the $.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> drill hog 337424.png
> 
> 
> 
> __ vtcnc
> __ Nov 29, 2021
> __
> drill hog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> M7 Molybenum 116 pc. split point Drill Hog set



I wasn't willing to fork over the cash for a 115 piece set, but last year I bought a 29 piece cobalt set. 

Drilling steel there is a noticeable improvement over my HF, Irwin, Dewalt etc drill bits.


----------



## Aaron_W

I brought this home today.




The lathe is marked Waltham Watch Tool Company, Springfield Mass. A little bit of searching turned up that the company moved from Waltham MA to Springfield MA in 1890 and became the Van Norman company around 1912-14 so I'm guessing this lathe was made between 1890 and 1912-ish. Seems to be in pretty good shape and has a more modern (but still old) Bodine 1/12hp reversable motor. 

The seller bought it from the estate of a local jeweler / watch repair shop owner, but has decided he doesn't have the time to take on a new hobby. The drawers contain a variety of attachments for the lathe and other watchmakers tooling, honestly I don't even know what half of this stuff is, but I will be learning. One of those great deals 10 minutes from home things that are so hard to resist. I've been wanting to learn more about watch / clock repair so no more excuses.


----------



## woodchucker

Aaron_W said:


> I brought this home today.
> 
> View attachment 387151
> 
> 
> The lathe is marked Waltham Watch Tool Company, Springfield Mass. A little bit of searching turned up that the company moved from Waltham MA to Springfield MA in 1890 and became the Van Norman company around 1912-14 so I'm guessing this lathe was made between 1890 and 1912-ish. Seems to be in pretty good shape and has a more modern (but still old) Bodine 1/12hp reversable motor.
> 
> The seller bought it from the estate of a local jeweler / watch repair shop owner, but has decided he doesn't have the time to take on a new hobby. The drawers contain a variety of attachments for the lathe and other watchmakers tooling, honestly I don't even know what half of this stuff is, but I will be learning. One of those great deals 10 minutes from home things that are so hard to resist. I've been wanting to learn more about watch / clock repair so no more excuses.


better pics please. that's a cool little lathe, and so is the bench..


----------



## Aaron_W

woodchucker said:


> better pics please. that's a cool little lathe, and so is the bench..



I'll get some more once it is set up. I'll probably start a post in the watchmakers lathes section, I'm going to have a lot of questions.

I like the bench too, I think it is hand made.


----------



## brino

Aaron_W said:


> I'll get some more once it is set up. I'll probably start a post in the watchmakers lathes section


Excellent! I am looking forward to that.



Aaron_W said:


> The drawers contain a variety of attachments for the lathe and other watchmakers tooling, honestly I don't even know what half of this stuff is


Please provide photos of all that stuff too. There are often special ways of holding parts/jobs that change with profession, but could be used by others in a tight spot. We could all learn a lot from that.



Aaron_W said:


> The seller bought it from the estate of a local jeweler / watch repair shop owner, but has decided he doesn't have the time to take on a new hobby.


There's a joke in there somewhere about having no time for clock//watch repair......

Thanks for sharing this!
-brino


----------



## 682bear

4 inch Wilton bullet... it's nasty and rusty, but tight... I think it will turn out ok with a little 'elbow grease'...

-Bear


----------



## woodchucker

Winegrower said:


> Excellent, thank you guys!  So now I want to figure out the math without the cad package and work out tables for the three pins (X-0.001, X, and X+0.001), let X run from 0.062 to 0.249.    Now THAT would really expand the range.   If it's too sparse a set, then we need the arbitrary solution for three diameters and the superscribed circle.
> 
> Fun!


I'm thinking maybe machineries handbook might have the info.... where ? I don't know.


----------



## RJSakowski

Winegrower said:


> Really interesting.   I could make a table showing the hole size formed by the three adjacent pins all the way through the set.   Anybody ever do that?   Oh man, I wish it would rain around here so I can spreadsheet this out!


Keep in mind that there are 1,667,304 possible combinations of three pins in a .251" - .500" pin set.


----------



## woodchucker

RJSakowski said:


> Keep in mind that there are 1,667,304 possible combinations of three pins in a .251" - .500" pin set.


Well Winegrower, you will be busy   and it will require more than a rainy day


----------



## rabler

18" Cushman 4-jaw for my Monarch 612 lathe.  About 300lbs of lathe chuck.  Picked it up today from the freight terminal.  Will want to clean it up and go over it pretty carefully before use.  It won't be the everyday use chuck.  Lathe came with a 12" 3-jaw and I have a 10" 4-jaw that will also fit.  But if I need to handle something big I have it, including the T-slots.  Ideally would have liked the two-part jaws but the price was right on this one, it is a D1-6 mount so no need for a backplate.
.


----------



## Winegrower

RJSakowski said:


> Keep in mind that there are 1,667,304 possible combinations of three pins in a .251" - .500" pin set.





woodchucker said:


> Well Winegrower, you will be busy  and it will require more than a rainy day



It was sunny today, and yes, I can keep track of a million things, but not 1,667,304 things.    So just looking at any three adjacent pins, 0.001 apart, the result is fascinating to me.   Descartes was an incredible machinist, it would seem.   Here's what I conclude, which is nothing more than what RJ, Doug and Larry$ have suggested.   But I had to do the math.

1) from a 0.061 to 0.250 set of gauge pins, you can extend the measurement using three adjacent sized pins up to over 0.5 inches.  By lowering the smallest pin one step, or increasing the largest pin one step, you can generate roughly half thousands over the extended range.    I assert without proof that handling three similar sized pins is pretty easy.

2) by adding a larger base pin, you can do the following:

Adding a 0.375 pin extends to over 5/8" capability
Adding a 0.500 pin extends to over 3/4" capability
Adding a 0.750 pin extends to over 1" capability

In each range you can micro step to below 0.001"

The tolerances of the pins tends to average out, to the level I was interested in pursuing.

So for $50 bucks or so for a small set up to 1/4", and three more pins, you get a 1" set that can check to 0.001".

And this leaves out most of RJ's combinations.


----------



## RJSakowski

Winegrower said:


> Oh man, you have to love the internet.   Found it:  http://www.ambrsoft.com/TrigoCalc/Circles3/Tangency/Tangent.htm
> 
> I guess Descartes figured this out for himself a long long time ago.


OK, I plugged the formula in your link into an Excel spreadsheet and it spits out the diameter of a circle circumscribing three tangent circles.


----------



## RJSakowski

And here it is.


----------



## woodchucker

wouldn't it be more necessary to figure out what size pins fit a circle to check the circle? Rather than here are 3 pins, what circle can I make.


----------



## Winegrower

Yes, because I only consider three adjacent sized pins, there are not that many possibilities and it’s easy to get a list of sizes of the superscribed hole, just scan along to what you want, and there are the three pins to use.

I could clean up my spreadsheet and attach…if any interest.  It includes the extension pins as well.


----------



## woodchucker

Winegrower said:


> Yes, because I only consider three adjacent sized pins, there are not that many possibilities and it’s easy to get a list of sizes of the superscribed hole, just scan along to what you want, and there are the three pins to use.
> 
> I could clean up my spreadsheet and attach…if any interest.  It includes the extension pins as well.


sure, better than relying on the internet if you are w/out a connection at the moment.


----------



## Winegrower

Ok I will get to posting my spreadsheet soon.


----------



## RJSakowski

woodchucker said:


> wouldn't it be more necessary to figure out what size pins fit a circle to check the circle? Rather than here are 3 pins, what circle can I make.


It depends on your goal.  I would select two likely pins to start and then the third to get the proper fit in the measured bore.   There are a lot of possible combinations of three pins that will fit any given bore.  From what I was able to observe, selecting the sum of the diameters of the first two pins to be close to the diameter of the bore give the greatest resolution for the bore diameter and having three pins of equal diameter gives the poorest resolution, although still better than that of the individual pins.


----------



## Winegrower

Here's an Excel sheet that may be interesting.    I will find out when my pin gauge set arrives, but it looks like with the dowel pins I have now, .375. .500. .625 and .750 I can measure accurately up to over an inch.   The math makes sense, anyway.

You can use this in two ways, where you know the three pin sizes, and where you know the size of the hole you want to measure.

Measurements are in inches, but the spreadsheet doesn't care if you use metric, answer will be metric also.


----------



## f350ca

Meet Lucy




Greg


----------



## woodchucker

f350ca said:


> Meet Lucy
> 
> View attachment 387364
> 
> 
> Greg


Wishing you both good luck, love, and a shadow.  So cute... soft and cuddly.  She's beautiful.


----------



## mmcmdl

2017 Toyota 4 Runner . Been a really crazy week but I think we've sorted things out . Getting down to brass tacks as far as the machines ,  keep or sell .


----------



## Inferno

Winegrower said:


> Here's an Excel sheet that may be interesting.    I will find out when my pin gauge set arrives, but it looks like with the dowel pins I have now, .375. .500. .625 and .750 I can measure accurately up to over an inch.   The math makes sense, anyway.
> 
> You can use this in two ways, where you know the three pin sizes, and where you know the size of the hole you want to measure.
> 
> Measurements are in inches, but the spreadsheet doesn't care if you use metric, answer will be metric also.


Speaking of pin gauge sets..
I have one and I don't need one. 
I think it's .100-1.00 
.001 steps. 

In different news. 
I didn't buy it today. I bought it two weeks ago. It's going to be a bit before it attains full use but..

I bought a 1/2" thick aluminum plate 43"X65"
It's in pretty used condition but it was cheap enough to be considered for the bed of the CNC machine I'm S L O W L Y building. 
I need to trim it to somewhere around 32X60 or so. Luckily circular saw blades are fairly cheap. 

After it's built, one of the first things I'll do is use the CNC to surface the plate. The plate will be, basically, the support. I plan on using wood as my main medium so I'll have a wood topper for the aluminum. And when I choose to cut aluminum, I'll add an aluminum spacer to the bed to not mess it up. 

At least that's the plan today.


----------



## richz

Mine looks the same


----------



## DAM 79

So I picked these up from the guy I purchased my lathe from (he made me a really good deal) if anyone is looking for taps 1” and larger this guy has a bunch and is selling them for $20 each he has them up to 4” I think the one on the left is a acme 1”-6 there all made in the USA


----------



## woodchucker

DAM 79 said:


> So I picked these up from the guy I purchased my lathe from (he made me a really good deal) if anyone is looking for taps 1” and larger this guy has a bunch and is selling them for $20 each he has them up to 4” I think the one on the left is a acme 1”-6 there all made in the USA


damn those are big.  They look in great shape too. you gotta have a big tap handle for those.


----------



## Aukai

I was not going to get this but the seller took 275.00(300 with shipping) for this Bison 3 jaw rotating chuck.


----------



## DAM 79

Aukai said:


> I was not going to get this but the seller took 275.00(300 with shipping) for this Bison 3 jaw rotating chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 387457


That’s a nice score for the price and will come in super handy!!!


----------



## DAM 79

woodchucker said:


> damn those are big.  They look in great shape too. you gotta have a big tap handle for those.


I don’t think any of the taps have ever been used and he has drawers full of them up to 4” I think


----------



## Tim9

f350ca said:


> Meet Lucy
> 
> View attachment 387364
> 
> 
> Greg


Lucy is adorable. And I’m sure you both feel lucky to have each other. Pups are the best !


----------



## Mheaton92

Got a harig 612, I don’t know much about the machine as where it came from or the year it was made. But it seems to be in great shape. There is small amounts of rust but the ways had no ridges. Paid 800 for it with a compound sine chuck. It is missing the wheel guard I am looking for one now. 















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Cheeseking

Interesting there’s a bijur lube on yours. I have a 612 also but it has an internal oil reservoir and submerged pump. When the motor is running the pump sends lube to the all the ways and lead screw nut.


----------



## Aaron_W

richz said:


> Mine looks the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 387449



Your bench is in better condition, and my Sherline lives on a US General cabinet.  

I've been kind of looking for one of these benches just because they seem really handy so to find one with a lathe, cool old desk light and filled with tools asking what would be a reasonable price for just the lathe, tooling or bench alone was too hard to pass up.

I added wheels to mine before it even came out of the truck. I took advantage of the fact it was already laying on its back with the bottom facing the tail gate. Luckily it was built with a solid bottom so adding the wheels took less than 10 minutes.


----------



## NCjeeper

Cheeseking said:


> Interesting there’s a bijur lube on yours. I have a 612 also but it has an internal oil reservoir and submerged pump. When the motor is running the pump sends lube to the all the ways and lead screw nut.


Yep mine too.


----------



## Mheaton92

Cheeseking said:


> Interesting there’s a bijur lube on yours. I have a 612 also but it has an internal oil reservoir and submerged pump. When the motor is running the pump sends lube to the all the ways and lead screw nut.



I wonder if this will cause a problem then. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Cheeseking

Possibly. Depends if it’s a different design Harig offered or the previous owner decided to bypass or eliminate the circulating oil system. They are prone to pump failure and the OE pumps are very pricey. The table rides on a film of oil that is maintained by the pump and returns via those troughs and weep holes back to the sump. 
Look in back of the machine toward the bottom of the column you may see the sump cover plate and an oil cup for filling and maintaining the level. It’s a neat design but if the machine isn’t leveled or the drain holes get clogged oil ends up leaking out and it gets quite messy.


----------



## Kevin T

DAM 79 said:


> So I picked these up from the guy I purchased my lathe from (he made me a really good deal) if anyone is looking for taps 1” and larger this guy has a bunch and is selling them for $20 each he has them up to 4” I think the one on the left is a acme 1”-6 there all made in the USA


Do you think he has a 2 3/8 - 6tpi ?


----------



## parrothead

I just bought this Rockwell 23-501 tool grinder at an auction for $61.00.  I haven’t tried it yet because the power cord is crusty, so I’ll need to get some wire first.  Has a nice base pedestal, but is missing one of the cast trays that go under the grinding stones.  How did I do?


----------



## matthewsx

parrothead said:


> I just bought this Rockwell 23-501 tool grinder at an auction for $61.00.  I haven’t tried it yet because the power cord is crusty, so I’ll need to get some wire first.  Has a nice base pedestal, but is missing one of the cast trays that go under the grinding stones.  How did I do?


You most definitely suck....


----------



## woodchucker

matthewsx said:


> You most definitely suck....


yea, he sucks..


----------



## Dave Smith

parrothead said:


> I just bought this Rockwell 23-501 tool grinder at an auction for $61.00.  I haven’t tried it yet because the power cord is crusty, so I’ll need to get some wire first.  Has a nice base pedestal, but is missing one of the cast trays that go under the grinding stones.  How did I do?


did good, very good!!!
Dave


----------



## WobblyHand

parrothead said:


> I just bought this Rockwell 23-501 tool grinder at an auction for $61.00.  I haven’t tried it yet because the power cord is crusty, so I’ll need to get some wire first.  Has a nice base pedestal, but is missing one of the cast trays that go under the grinding stones.  How did I do?


Hmm, beat me to it.  You did great!

Yesterday picked up a MSC carbide grinder and pedestal base listed on Market Place.  1 HP motor.  Grinding wheels are extremely worn.  Listened to it run, has pretty good bearings, coast down was in many minutes.  Not a you suck purchase, but not bad.  Weird buy, stopped at guy's house, was told to pull into garage across the street.  He had a generator in garage, but otherwise no electricity.  No lights.  Had to listen to unit under power while listening to generator.  All the while holding a flashlight that I had brought, trying to check this unit out.  Reminded me of those Craigslist listing where the photos are in the dark...  Asked him to kill generator, just so I could listen to the coast down.  Pictures on my bench, trying to figure out how to clean it up.



As I understand it, these are type 2 wheels.  What wheels do you guys recommend?  I want to grind HSS mostly.  Right now there is a white alumina wheel on it and a green wheel.  6 inch.  4 inch ID.  Going on to Norton site is a bit confusing, if anyone could point out some decent wheels and appropriate grits, I'd appreciate it.


----------



## jwmelvin

WobblyHand said:


> As I understand it, these are type 2 wheels. What wheels do you guys recommend? I want to grind HSS mostly. Right now there is a white alumina wheel on it and a green wheel. 6 inch. 4 inch ID. Going on to Norton site is a bit confusing, if anyone could point out some decent wheels and appropriate grits, I'd appreciate it.



I have a Rockwell version of the same grinder. Mine came with a set of alumina wheels (white-ish) and a set of the green SiC; the green for grinding carbide. I keep green on one side and white on the other; it’s nice to be able to touch up brazed carbide lathe tools. The wheels are pretty expensive and I have a couple belt grinders and another bench grinder so I’m basically just sticking with the ones so have until they are worn. When I looked into it, I remember them being referred to as face-mount wheels.


----------



## woodchucker

jwmelvin said:


> I have a Rockwell version of the same grinder. Mine came with a set of alumina wheels (white-ish) and a set of the green SiC; the green for grinding carbide. I keep green on one side and white on the other; it’s nice to be able to touch up brazed carbide lathe tools. The wheels are pretty expensive and I have a couple belt grinders and another bench grinder so I’m basically just sticking with the ones so have until they are worn. When I looked into it, I remember them being referred to as face-mount wheels.


you can pickup diamond wheels for doing carbide. I remember Keith Fenner bought a HF grinder, fixed it up (they are kits basically), and added a diamond wheel.


----------



## WobblyHand

Norton doesn't seem to have any drawings, or decoder ring that I have found.  My wheel is 5.68" in diameter and has a 1.25" bore, but seems to a little over 1.71" thick including the mounting plate.  Abrasive height is 1.24" from plate outer surface.  Haven't been able to match it with anything yet.  White alumina.


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> Norton doesn't seem to have any drawings, or decoder ring that I have found.  My wheel is 5.68" in diameter and has a 1.25" bore, but seems to a little over 1.71" thick including the mounting plate.  Abrasive height is 1.24" from plate outer surface.  Haven't been able to match it with anything yet.  White alumina.


are you asking about the diamond wheel? search for Keith Fenner's video on the carbide grinder.
edit: it's a 3 part video..




I may be wrong, maybe he kept stone... but I think he upgraded it.

he did, I just went to the end of part3, he installed a diamond wheel.


----------



## WobblyHand

No, the white wheel, like this.  I'd like to replace mine.  Came off easy, once I figured there was a left hand nut holding it on!  That and a drop of Kroil on the nut.


There's lots of diamond or CBN wheels.  Right now, I am looking for a new white wheel.  Can one buy them anymore?  This one seems different from a Norton wheel, dimensions in post #7290.

Edit:  Found a Norton white wheel 80 grit.  P/N 66252838314.  MSC has them on eBay with free shipping.  If you buy direct from MSC, no free shipping until your order is over $149.  List price: $133


----------



## Dave Smith

WobblyHand said:


> No, the white wheel, like this.  I'd like to replace mine.  Came off easy, once I figured there was a left hand nut holding it on!  That and a drop of Kroil on the nut.
> View attachment 387726
> 
> There's lots of diamond or CBN wheels.  Right now, I am looking for a new white wheel.  Can one buy them anymore?  This one seems different from a Norton wheel, dimensions in post #7290.


while looking for new wheels, you can face and true your white wheel with a diamond dresser cause it has a lot of wear left in it. I just use any diamond grit tool (like a section of an old diamond skillsaw or angle grinder blade) and hold it in my hand using the flat side of the blade where the diamond grit is. just use a vacuum to contain the stone grit dust. old cement cutting blades can be used because they are diamond coated edge. I just use a thin cutoff blade in my angle grinder to cut the sections from the blades. this also works to true any gray or blue stone grinder wheels. when your white wheels are worn down you use them by hand to clean your diamond wheels by pressing them against the face of the diamond wheel. they will leave the diamonds sharp and clean.
Dave


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> are you asking about the diamond wheel? search for Keith Fenner's video on the carbide grinder.
> edit: it's a 3 part video..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may be wrong, maybe he kept stone... but I think he upgraded it.
> 
> he did, I just went to the end of part3, he installed a diamond wheel.


I'm sure I will run into most of what Keith found.


----------



## Janderso

woodchucker said:


> are you asking about the diamond wheel? search for Keith Fenner's video on the carbide grinder.
> edit: it's a 3 part video..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may be wrong, maybe he kept stone... but I think he upgraded it.
> 
> he did, I just went to the end of part3, he installed a diamond wheel.


I bought one of these and had to go through it as well. You do save $500 or so.
Heck, two good wheels will set you back $300 in my experience.
I lost that one in the fire. I found an old Baldor tool room grinder that runs beautifully.


----------



## wachuko

I have been holding off at looking at these... Trying to avoid buying one... Well, could not resist.  Found several in eBay.  Ended up going with this one with a "buy now" after getting tired of being outbidded several times... 





I don't need it... but they look so cool that I wanted to have one just for kicks...


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> I have been holding off at looking at these... Trying to avoid buying one... Well, could not resist.  Found several in eBay.  Ended up going with this one with a "buy now" after getting tired of being outbidded several times...
> 
> 
> View attachment 387841
> 
> 
> I don't need it... but they look so cool that I wanted to have one just for kicks...


I've got a bunch of them, got them at garage sales, usually with other things. I used one often, since it's got a nice large throat, until I finally figured out how to get my crescent wrench apart. I never noticed the peening of the screw hole... could not figure out why I couldn't get the screw out.


----------



## NCjeeper

Picked up this big sucker off of E-Bay for $22.50.


----------



## woodchucker

NCjeeper said:


> Picked up this big sucker off of E-Bay for $22.50.
> View attachment 387842


I saw that.. just couldn't handle it in my little clausing ... I'm a little size challenged..     Enjoy your big sucker.


----------



## NCjeeper

The seller seems to have a lot of nice new end mills for sale.


----------



## tq60

We stopped by our local pawn shop and reminded them of the bags of end mills and taps we got last time and asked if he found any more.

He said...funny thing about that, while looking for something else he found more and set them aside for us...

This time there was only 40 units, big ones mostly. 

We ordered a 1 inch holder for th BP.

These have the tube and some state regrind but most look brand new.

Very sharp corners, $135.00 for the lot.

Mostly HSS with some carbide.

Some hoggers and one almost 2 inch on 3/4 shank.

A couple long ones which are great for squaring up stuff.

Nice sharp corners.

Not bad for a bit over 3 bucks each.

The used ones at the supply in Fresno are sometimes a buck but usually 2 to 3 and finding a sharp one difficult.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			














Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


----------



## TDubs

A few gallons of Velocite #10, Vactra #2, DTE 24 & 26.  Got a South Bend 10K that is thirsty.


----------



## Larry42

NCjeeper said:


> Picked up this big sucker off of E-Bay for $22.50.
> View attachment 387842


May I ask what do you do with such a thing in a home shop?


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stop by the tool/flea market, it was a cold day so not too much traffic but i did manage to find this cordless paint polisher 7$ and this wrench set 35$. The set is cheap china set but for the small parts that i'm fixing it should be good enough.


----------



## TDubs

Today's buy was two large pieces of .050" and .063" 6061 sheet. Gonna have fun cutting and milling them tomorrow!


----------



## NCjeeper

Larry42 said:


> May I ask what do you do with such a thing in a home shop?


Probably take light cuts with it. It also gives me more reach for those difficult areas.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

I might have slightly accidentally bought $5k worth of tooling at an auction...

Going to pick my lots up tomorrow, I'll post pics of my SUV to lowrider conversion


----------



## mattthemuppet2

here's a taster





that's 6 out of the 207, plus there's the 14 other lots that I got...


----------



## woodchucker

I'll bet you beat me out... did you get the radius dresser for the surface grinder????


----------



## mattthemuppet2

no, but I did put a lowball bid on it. I'll have to go back and check what it went for. To be honest, other than a nice 8" 3 jaw and a few other similar sized items, pretty much everything I got was tooling - drills, taps, inserts, end mills. It's going to take a looong time to sort through and organise


----------



## erikmannie

My Christmas present from my wife was $100.00 toward my extensive tool debts,  *plus*…a spare adapter plate for my PM-1030V lathe!

I plan to use this backing plate for a yet to be purchased economical 5C collet. I already have a large amount of 5C collets that I bought for my other lathe, so these 5C collets can pull double duty.

These proprietary backing plates have been of stock for a long time!






						Spare Back Plate, 5″ Diameter, for PM-1022V / PM-1030V Lathes – Precision Matthews Machinery Co.
					






					www.precisionmatthews.com


----------



## slodat

Added a 3-4" digital micrometer.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Here's the car loaded up


Way overloaded and took it VERY carefully on the drive home. Load out took about four hours

Front seat



Back seat



Trunk



No more auctions for me for awhile!


----------



## jwmelvin

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Here's the car loaded up



Holy moly! That’s impressive. It will be fun to see you sort it out. Nice job just dealing with all that.


----------



## extropic

@mattthemuppet2

I have no idea what's in them but I see hundreds of $$$ worth of tote pans there. They can be a great aid in organizing.

In case you don't have much experience with them, let me give you a few tips.

The totes stack nicely, BUT the bottoms can fail if heavily loaded, over time, and not sitting on a solid support. Using a cover on each tote has provided sufficient support for the bottom above, in my experience. I see that the price of covers is high now, IMHO, at McMaster, but you can shop for a better deal at other suppliers or maybe the manufacturer will sell direct. Try Zoro with a 20% off coupon and free shipping over $75.
There are (were?) also at least 3 styles of covers. One style is just a flat sheet that sits in the recess on the top flange of the tote. Another type is made of the same material as the box, fits over the the top flange of the box and includes a 1" (or so) deep skirt around the perimeter. The 3rd type is made of a relatively clear plastic and seems like a vacuformed part that snaps on the top flange. The flat ones are really dust covers and may not provide much support for a heavy load. The second type are probably the best support and most expensive. I generally use the third type because they were less expensive, I can see what's in the tote and I keep the weight down on stacked totes.

Another option I've considered (not done yet) is to cut a sheet if 1/4" plywood to fit into the bottom of the tote. However, if substantially overloaded (stacking a few heavy totes), the side walls of the lower one might tend to open up. Using types 2 or 3 covers restrains the top flange of the tote to prevent that distortion.

Of course, you can use them safely, unstacked, resting on a solid surface.

How did that become so long winded? I hope it helps.









						McMaster-Carr
					

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




					www.mcmaster.com
				





Edit: McMaster used to sell both the type 2 and 3 covers that I described. I suspect the only type currently listed is the type 2. My guess is based on the price. If so, it's probably the strongest option for stacking on, but it's opaque. Only a guess.


----------



## wachuko

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Here's the car loaded up
> View attachment 388098
> 
> Way overloaded and took it VERY carefully on the drive home. Load out took about four hours
> 
> Front seat
> View attachment 388099
> 
> 
> Back seat
> View attachment 388100
> 
> 
> Trunk
> View attachment 388101
> 
> 
> No more auctions for me for awhile!


You were not kidding!!!! Wow!!

just curious, is this a hobby for you or a business?

For me is a hobby… just trying to understand how bad it could get for me… if this is just a hobby for you too…


----------



## mattthemuppet2

extropic said:


> @mattthemuppet2
> 
> I have no idea what's in them but I see hundreds of $$$ worth of tote pans there. They can be a great aid in organizing.
> 
> In case you don't have much experience with them, let me give you a few tips.
> 
> The totes stack nicely, BUT the bottoms can fail if heavily loaded, over time, and not sitting on a solid support. Using a cover on each tote has provided sufficient support for the bottom above, in my experience. I see that the price of covers is high now, IMHO, at McMaster, but you can shop for a better deal at other suppliers or maybe the manufacturer will sell direct. Try Zoro with a 20% off coupon and free shipping over $75.
> There are (were?) also at least 3 styles of covers. One style is just a flat sheet that sits in the recess on the top flange of the tote. Another type is made of the same material as the box, fits over the the top flange of the box and includes a 1" (or so) deep skirt around the perimeter. The 3rd type is made of a relatively clear plastic and seems like a vacuformed part that snaps on the top flange. The flat ones are really dust covers and may not provide much support for a heavy load. The second type are probably the best support and most expensive. I generally use the third type because they were less expensive, I can see what's in the tote and I keep the weight down on stacked totes.
> 
> Another option I've considered (not done yet) is to cut a sheet if 1/4" plywood to fit into the bottom of the tote. However, if substantially overloaded (stacking a few heavy totes), the side walls of the lower one might tend to open up. Using types 2 or 3 covers restrains the top flange of the tote to prevent that distortion.
> 
> Of course, you can use them safely, unstacked, resting on a solid surface.
> 
> How did that become so long winded? I hope it helps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> McMaster-Carr
> 
> 
> McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.mcmaster.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: McMaster used to sell both the type 2 and 3 covers that I described. I suspect the only type currently listed is the type 2. My guess is based on the price. If so, it's probably the strongest option for stacking on, but it's opaque. Only a guess.


Thanks, those are good tips. Funny thing is I left about half of the totes behind, just didn't have space to take them! Probably could have died them in but I was already way overloaded and running late. The auction guy said he'd use them for the next sale, so at least they'll get used.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

jwmelvin said:


> Holy moly! That’s impressive. It will be fun to see you sort it out. Nice job just dealing with all that.


Yeah, it's going to take a good while just sorting through it! Today's job (other than doing the grading I should have done yesterday) is to organize the garage so I can get the scrap out that's going to the scrappers next Saturday and put these in it's place.

Can't do any more than that until I get the Full Metal Chicken finished. Pretty tight deadline on that 


wachuko said:


> You were not kidding!!!! Wow!!
> 
> just curious, is this a hobby for you or a business?
> 
> For me is a hobby… just trying to understand how bad it could get for me… if this is just a hobby for you too…


Yeah, I got a bit carried away! Mostly hobby business/ side hustle to make up for not having a pay rise for 5 years, but also a way to get some cool tooling for my own "shop". Just with a half hour looking around I pulled out 3/8 and a 1/2" solid carbide sclcr boring bars!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

the wife has also in no uncertain terms told me not to do that to the car again..


----------



## francist

Gotta love KBC Tools — ordered at 9:00 pm Thursday, shipped Friday, on my doorstep Sunday afternoon! Hard to beat that 




-frank


----------



## Eyerelief

Finally broke down and bought a 5C collet wrench. Toyed around with the thought of making one (still might) because I’d like to have one with a thru hole.  I have a Kalamazoo 5C collet chuck and this tool has made putting in collets much easier.


----------



## extropic

@Eyerelief 

Can you identify the manufacturer or link to the collet rack(s) shown?
I don't think I've ever seen one with the sizes printed on.


----------



## Brento

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Yeah, it's going to take a good while just sorting through it! Today's job (other than doing the grading I should have done yesterday) is to organize the garage so I can get the scrap out that's going to the scrappers next Saturday and put these in it's place.
> 
> Can't do any more than that until I get the Full Metal Chicken finished. Pretty tight deadline on that
> 
> Yeah, I got a bit carried away! Mostly hobby business/ side hustle to make up for not having a pay rise for 5 years, but also a way to get some cool tooling for my own "shop". Just with a half hour looking around I pulled out 3/8 and a 1/2" solid carbide sclcr boring bars!


I could use ER40 collets for my birthday next month! Lol great haul!!!


----------



## Eyerelief

extropic said:


> @Eyerelief
> 
> Can you identify the manufacturer or link to the collet rack(s) shown?
> I don't think I've ever seen one with the sizes printed on.


I bought it off fleabay   They had a couple different offerings.  I chose the complete set covering all sizes by 64ths.  Here is the description 
5C All Sizes 64ths-set Collet Rack Tray Drawer or Bench - Storage Holder 4BJ4X16
I like that They are plastic with mdf sides. The sizes are actually ingraved into the plastic, and common sizes are marked differently


----------



## Steve-F

As we always walk a few miles at Oceanside harbor on the weekends, this time there happened to be a small parking lot swap meet....soooo.......I couldn't resist having a look. Found a KD # 385 valve spring compressor, perfect for motorcycles for $1, then a pair of Channel locks #430 for $1, next a funny looking leather pencil holder called a Hunter Sure Fit 2200-3....for $8 and last but not least....drum roll please......a Interapid test indicator .0001 resolution Model 312-B3 in the box with all the trimmings, like new....for $10!!!   Happy Dance!!!


----------



## wachuko

Steve-F said:


> As we always walk a few miles at Oceanside harbor on the weekends, this time there happened to be a small parking lot swap meet....soooo.......I couldn't resist having a look. Found a KD # 385 valve spring compressor, perfect for motorcycles for $1, then a pair of Channel locks #430 for $1, next a funny looking leather pencil holder called a Hunter Sure Fit 2200-3....for $8 and last but not least....drum roll please......a Interapid test indicator .0001 resolution Model 312-B3 in the box with all the trimmings, like new....for $10!!!   Happy Dance!!!



Nice score!  That valve spring compressor works well with small engines... I recently got one for a Tecumseh HH100 engine that I am working on... 

Leather pencil holder, hahahaha, funny... had to look at it again when I read your post and looked at the photos for the pencil holder, lol...


----------



## 682bear

Steve-F said:


> As we always walk a few miles at Oceanside harbor on the weekends, this time there happened to be a small parking lot swap meet....soooo.......I couldn't resist having a look. Found a KD # 385 valve spring compressor, perfect for motorcycles for $1, then a pair of Channel locks #430 for $1, next a funny looking leather pencil holder called a Hunter Sure Fit 2200-3....for $8 and last but not least....drum roll please......a Interapid test indicator .0001 resolution Model 312-B3 in the box with all the trimmings, like new....for $10!!!   Happy Dance!!!




The $10 indicator earns you a big YOU SUCK!

I'll give you $15 for it... plus shipping!

-Bear


----------



## Christianstark

I didn't BUY it per-se, but a birthday gift from my parents.


----------



## Steve-F

The $10 indicator earns you a big YOU SUCK!

I'll give you $15 for it... plus shipping!

-Bear   
I'm still in shock myself:<)


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Brento said:


> I could use ER40 collets for my birthday next month! Lol great haul!!!



thanks, still organising stuff so I can walk around my garage  No large ER collets unfortunately. I bid on a few lots but they went way higher than I could justify


----------



## extropic

Steve-F said:


> I'm still in shock myself:<)



LOL    I bet you looked pretty silly, skipping and hooting all the way home.


----------



## extropic

mattthemuppet2 said:


> thanks, still organising stuff so I can walk around my garage  No large ER collets unfortunately. I bid on a few lots but they went way higher than I could *justify*



LOL    How can a guy, who just spent $5K on a car FULL of tooling, justify using the word justify?  

I'm mentally substituting "get away with".


----------



## Aaron_W

I blame the label maker thread for this one. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/label-maker-recommendations.95809/

I've actually wanted to get an old type embossing Dymo label maker to list the inventory in the compartments of my fire engine, but never get around to it. Out of curiosity I popped over to Ebay, figured there must be a few used ones dirt cheap since they are not popular anymore. 

I found this original metal body Dymo label maker from the 1960s with accessories. I never knew they made a metal one, even as a kid in the 1970s they were the kind of cheap plastic type. It had a starting bid of $8.99 so I thought why not and put in $12 which is about the retail price of a new one. Can you believe nobody else bid on it, I guess the Dymo collectors (both of them) already have one.    

I kind of expected there might be some last minute esnipe bids since it comes with all this other stuff, but wasn't terribly surprised that I was the only one interested.


----------



## Janderso

Aaron_W said:


> I blame the label maker thread for this one. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/label-maker-recommendations.95809/
> 
> I've actually wanted to get an old type embossing Dymo label maker to list the inventory in the compartments of my fire engine, but never get around to it. Out of curiosity I popped over to Ebay, figured there must be a few used ones dirt cheap since they are not popular anymore.
> 
> I found this original metal body Dymo label maker from the 1960s with accessories. I never knew they made a metal one, even as a kid in the 1970s they were the kind of cheap plastic type. It had a starting bid of $8.99 so I thought why not and put in $12 which is about the retail price of a new one. Can you believe nobody else bid on it, I guess the Dymo collectors (both of them) already have one.
> 
> I kind of expected there might be some last minute esnipe bids since it comes with all this other stuff, but wasn't terribly surprised that I was the only one interested.
> 
> View attachment 388372


That should go in the Smithsonian.


----------



## Brento

Ive gotta pick up ER collets from 1/2" to max size @mattthemuppet2


----------



## mattthemuppet2

extropic said:


> LOL    I bet you looked pretty silly, skipping and hooting all the way home.


more like bouncing and screaming  Car was a real handful and I was exhausted by the time I got home. Thankfully it's back to normal now it doesn't have 2000lb of tools in it!


extropic said:


> LOL    How can a guy, who just spent $5K on a car FULL of tooling, justify using the word justify?
> 
> I'm mentally substituting "get away with".


yeah, well perhaps that's not the right word  Like a lot of auctions, some stuff goes for way more than I expected (bin of somewhat rusty ER collets for $100) and others for way less (bin of mostly new carbide endmills for $10). I didn't even win the thing I really wanted, a Kurt 4" vise, as I tapped out at $200 + fees. Not a terrible price (would have been ~$256 all in) but not great either as it didn't have any jaws and my current vise works pretty well. Still sad though..


----------



## erikmannie

I bought 6 of these:









						PLUG BOLT 19.5 X 17 X 45 at Grizzly.com
					






					www.grizzly.com
				




and one backplate pictured below:







I am getting ready to add a 5C collet chuck to my PM-1030V lathe.

I know that each backplate only requires 3 plug bolts. They were only $1 each, so I bought a spare set.


----------



## FliesLikeABrick

I bought 1400-1500 lbs of handheld/portable bandsaws, qty ~70.

I was bidding on some items at an auction ~90 minutes from home, at a large fabrication contractor that was downsizing inventory.  Specifically a smoke filtration system for welding, and a few other things.

Once I won my first items and knew I was making the drive, I figured I would bid on a few other items.  Some friends commented on the crates of bandsaws they were selling (no quantity, weight, model, or condition information), saying that they might want one or two if someone was to win th lot.  I put in an optimistically-low bid based on some assumptions about quantity, condition, capability, and how many I could repair based by using parts from damaged units.

As usual with auctions I went prepared to load my own items, in this case with a pallet jack and winch to haul it into the trailer.  However, they loaded it for me with a forklift which was convenient - they had a lot of people coming through and wanted people in and out quickly at their active warehouse.




At this point I could tell it was more than the ~30 saws I estimated from the insufficient listing picture.  There were 2 lots of bandsaws like this, one of them estimated the quantity at 16 and the crate was not nearly as full.

Normally at home I have to winch things out of the trailer down the ramp, however this was a good use for the new gantry procured a month or two ago





Tipped the scales around 1400-1500 lbs depending on whether I had the additional saws on top of the crate




I estimated around 70 saws, if they were 20lbs each (and allowing 100-150 lbs for the crate itself).   A few days later I unloaded the crate and sorted by model.  Most of them were Milwaukee 6225 (two-speed, aluminum or zinc housing); and about another dozen were various variable-speed (dial or trigger) models, including a few Dewalts.

They all appear to be in fundamentally working condition, with minor repairs needed: the occasional missing blade, tire, guide bearing, maybe a bad bearing in the idler wheel.  But at least 85% of them can be picked up and put to use.

I've sold a handful of working ones to friends cheap (and at friend prices they were worth shipping to a few handy friends in Chicago), and still have upwards of 60 sitting in the garage.  I need to figure out what to do with them long-term -- I think they will be difficult to sell due to the contractor-special Anti-Theft paint job, and did not factor long-term storage in when bidding.


----------



## jwmelvin

Wow! I’d like to buy one from you.


----------



## francist

I guess you’ll never have to worry about changing blades — just throw the whole saw away and grab another…


----------



## Steve-F

FliesLikeABRick said:


> I bought 1400-1500 lbs of handheld/portable bandsaws, qty ~70.
> 
> I was bidding on some items at an auction ~90 minutes from home, at a large fabrication contractor that was downsizing inventory.  Specifically a smoke filtration system for welding, and a few other things.
> 
> Once I won my first items and knew I was making the drive, I figured I would bit on a few other items.  Some friends commented on the crates of bandsaws they were selling (no quantity, weight, model, or condition information), saying that they might want one or two if someone was to win th lot.  I put in an optimistically-low bid based on some assumptions about quantity, condition, capability, and how many I could repair based by using parts from damaged units.
> 
> As usual with auctions I went prepared to load my own items, in this case with a pallet jack and winch to haul it into the trailer.  However, they loaded it for me with a forklift which was convenient - they had a lot of people coming through and wanted people in and out quickly at their active warehouse.
> View attachment 388483
> View attachment 388484
> 
> 
> At this point I could tell it was more than the ~30 saws I estimated from the insufficient listing picture.  There were 2 lots of bandsaws like this, one of them estimated the quantity at 16 and the crate was not nearly as full.
> 
> Normally at home I have to winch things out of the trailer down the ramp, however this was a good use for the new gantry procured a month or two ago
> View attachment 388485
> 
> View attachment 388486
> 
> 
> Tipped the scales around 1400-1500 lbs depending on whether I had the additional saws on top of the crate
> 
> View attachment 388487
> 
> 
> I estimated around 70 saws, if they were 20lbs each (and allowing 100-150 lbs for the crate itself).   A few days later I unloaded the crate and sorted by model.  Most of them were Milwaukee 6225 (two-speed, aluminum or zinc housing); and about another dozen were various variable-speed (dial or trigger) models, including a few Dewalts.
> 
> They all appear to be in fundamentally working condition, with minor repairs needed: the occasional missing blade, tire, guide bearing, maybe a bad bearing in the idler wheel.  But at least 85% of them can be picked up and put to use.
> 
> I've sold a handful of working ones to friends cheap (and at friend prices they were worth shipping to a few handy friends in Chicago), and still have upwards of 60 sitting in the garage.  I need to figure out what to do with them long-term -- I think they will be difficult to sell due to the contractor-special Anti-Theft paint job, and did not factor long-term storage in when bidding.
> View attachment 388488
> 
> 
> View attachment 388489


Hmmmm


----------



## extropic

@FliesLikeABRick 

Congrats on your purchase. 

Figure a price (including shipping) and post the offer to sell in the "For Sale" sub-forum.

I'll take a look.

I think those benchtop mounts (like SWAG sells) look like a very handy option and this may be a way to make it happen.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

FliesLikeABRick said:


> I bought 1400-1500 lbs of handheld/portable bandsaws, qty ~70.
> 
> Once I won my first items and knew I was making the drive, I figured I would bid on a few other items.  Some friends commented on the crates of bandsaws they were selling (no quantity, weight, model, or condition information), saying that they might want one or two if someone was to win th lot.  I put in an optimistically-low bid based on some assumptions about quantity, condition, capability, and how many I could repair based by using parts from damaged units.


huh, now who would do such a crazy thing like that?


----------



## Aukai

I have the swag table, the throat is very limiting at 5", but it does work.


----------



## erikmannie

This is the 5C collet chuck that I use on my 16” lathe. I bought another one today to put on my 10” lathe:









						Bison 5" 5C Universal Collet Chuck Plain Back Mount 7-862-0501
					

Bison 5" 5C Universal Collet Chuck Plain Back Mount 7-862-0501




					www.smalltools.com
				




I thought I would have to save up, but this morning the boss just happened to offer the hourly staff to cash out sick & optional (e.g. birthday) days if we had ‘em. I didn’t call in sick or use any optional days the whole year (*definitely* for the purpose of buying tools).


----------



## FOMOGO

If you have a bead blast cabinet, maybe duct tape over the cooling vents and see how that works "Getting rid of the blues". Mike


----------



## wachuko

Right about now I am thinking that my next buy is going to be a used pallet jack... Do most of you folks have one to move stuff around?  Seeing a few used for around 100.00... 

Or do you move stuff with pipes and such, or rent one... and avoid another bulky item in the workshop/garage?


----------



## GreatOldOne

Had these for a few days, first attempt at using them today. Iscar parting tool & tips:






it’s night and day better than my old insert-blade-inna-custom-clamp-held-inna-toolholder. Not surprising as it’s closer to the toolpost dovetails reducing all that overhang. And the tips dont get forced back into the blade, losing tool height. It has no problems on the rando bar stock I chucked up to test it on. No rubbing, no squeeling.


----------



## 682bear

wachuko said:


> Right about now I am thinking that my next buy is going to be a used pallet jack... Do most of you folks have one to move stuff around?  Seeing a few used for around 100.00...
> 
> Or do you move stuff with pipes and such, or rent one... and avoid another bulky item in the workshop/garage?



I use my pallet jack often... when I'm not using it, I roll it under the end of a workbench so it actually takes up very little space.

-Bear


----------



## extropic

wachuko said:


> Right about now I am thinking that my next buy is going to be a used pallet jack... Do most of you folks have one to move stuff around?  Seeing a few used for around 100.00...
> 
> Or do you move stuff with pipes and such, or rent one... and avoid another bulky item in the workshop/garage?



I think a pallet jack is much preferred over putting casters under everything that you want to be easily mobile.

You have to be careful when moving tall, top heavy items (no abrupt turns) but still a great tool.


----------



## wachuko

extropic said:


> I think a pallet jack is much preferred over putting casters under everything that you want to be easily mobile.
> 
> You have to be careful when moving tall, top heavy items (no abrupt turns) but still a great tool.





682bear said:


> I use my pallet jack often... when I'm not using it, I roll it under the end of a workbench so it actually takes up very little space.
> 
> -Bear



Thank you... I keep looking for a Bridgeport, or Bridgeport clone, milling machine... A pallet jack would be extremely handy to move something like that... and the lathe should be coming soon, so I can use it to move that around and use the engine lift crane to put it in place (if I do not end up getting that telescopic gantry crane that I have been eyeing for a few months now)... 

I will grab a pallet jack to be ready... Thank you again.


----------



## Aaron_W

wachuko said:


> Right about now I am thinking that my next buy is going to be a used pallet jack... Do most of you folks have one to move stuff around?  Seeing a few used for around 100.00...
> 
> Or do you move stuff with pipes and such, or rent one... and avoid another bulky item in the workshop/garage?



Engine hoist and a heavy cart does it for me getting stuff in, and I put wheels on anything I can get away with putting wheels on once in the shop.

I could see a pallet jack being useful in a garage with large machines if you have the floor space to move it around. They do need a bit of room to maneuver but as Bear says they are fairly easy to tuck in under a bench or something when not being used.


----------



## Arielht500

*Have a pallet jack which is a narrow one for printers pallets. Really don’t know how I managed without it. It has a 2,500kg capacity. Bought the narrow one as there access issues in the shop, just have a few small pallets if I need them.*


----------



## Eyerelief

Arielht500 said:


> *Have a pallet jack which is a narrow one for printers pallets. Really don’t know how I managed without it. It has a 2,500kg capacity. Bought the narrow one as there access issues in the shop, just have a few small pallets if I need them.*


I have two pallet jacks .  Both free discards because the connector for the chain broke inside the handle I made new connectors out of a piece of hot rolled rod and pressed pins in them to attach the chain.  I no longer think twice about moving anything


----------



## woodchucker

If I had a garage shop, I would have a pallet jack. I would make my own pallets for the heaviest equip. Not the light duty stuff, or find the heavy pallets. With some welding of tubes, you could make it so you have a removeable fence on the pallet for when you need to stabilize a load. just plug them in when needed and strap the load to the tubes to prevent it from tilting / falling.  just like a fork lift.  Also the nice thing about a pallet jack is you are not flattening the wheels, since you don't keep weight on them. I have gone through many wheels lately, the polyurethane type fail over time.  If you mount any equip on casters, get the solid metal, or the thin tired with a metal hub.  Just my opinion.


----------



## keeena

woodchucker said:


> I would make my own pallets for the heaviest equip. Not the light duty stuff, or find the heavy pallets.


This.

When I bought & moved my BP I made my own heavy-duty pallet w/ dimensional lumber; I felt it was much more secure. The mill still sits on it today because its not in its final home & a pallet jack makes easy work of it. The mill is a bit high but usable. You can see a pic of it here: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/finally-got-myself-a-mill.83031/

A PJ is also great for moving around benches, cabinets, and shelves; a lot quicker than having to first unload everything.


----------



## woodchucker

keeena said:


> This.
> 
> When I bought & moved my BP I made my own heavy-duty pallet w/ dimensional lumber; I felt it was much more secure. The mill still sits on it today because its not in its final home & a pallet jack makes easy work of it. The mill is a bit high but usable. You can see a pic of it here: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/finally-got-myself-a-mill.83031/
> 
> A PJ is also great for moving around benches, cabinets, and shelves; a lot quicker than having to first unload everything.


I would probably not have any spaces between boards, so things would not fall under.
Also you could build a platform  to stand on, it would provide your feet some comfort rather than standing on concrete, just make it out of lighter stuff so it has some give. it would be warmer too rather than standing on cold concrete in the winter.  The nice thing about a pallet is you can mount a stand for accessories like a rotary table, spindexer, etc, and move it with the mill. or just put them down on the pallet.


----------



## BGHansen

wachuko said:


> Thank you... I keep looking for a Bridgeport, or Bridgeport clone, milling machine... A pallet jack would be extremely handy to move something like that... and the lathe should be coming soon, so I can use it to move that around and use the engine lift crane to put it in place (if I do not end up getting that telescopic gantry crane that I have been eyeing for a few months now)...
> 
> I will grab a pallet jack to be ready... Thank you again.


Here are some options off Craig's List.  I used the website "www.searchtempest.com".  It lets you specify price range, driving range, etc.  It looks up stuff on eBay and CL.  You may try Facebook Marketplace too.  They have MANY more listings for stuff than CL.

Bruce

$4500 Sharp with DRO, collets, vise, variable-speed head.  Looks to be in decent shape, just South of Tampa








						milling machine - tools - by owner - sale
					

BRIDGEPORT TYPE MILLING MACHINE ---(sharp brand) ------- HARD CHROME WAYS ARE LIKE NEW -------(pictures) ------- DIGITAL READOUT --------- KURT TYPE VISE --------- WAY COVERS ----------- COLLET RACK...



					sarasota.craigslist.org
				




$2500 Birmingham with 9" x 49" table and X-axis power feed.  No tooling, variable-speed head, Port Charlotte (South of Tampa, but you know the town . . .)








						Bridgeport style Milling Machine - tools - by owner - sale
					

Birmingham milling machine. 220 volt, 3 phase. The table is 49" x 9". The table movement is 29" x 12".



					fortmyers.craigslist.org
				




$4250 Bridgeport 1 HP belt-drive with a VFD installed (so variable speed).  Kurt vise, X-axis power feed, 42" table, North of Orlando








						Bridgeport Milling Machine - tools - by owner - sale
					

Very nice Bridgeport Milling Machine. Everything works and checked out by a trained professional with documentation.1 H.P. 3 phase with a V.F.D. which allows it to run on 240 volt single phase...



					ocala.craigslist.org
				




$2800 Alliant, 42" table, variable-speed head, collets and a vise.  In the Bradenton area.








						Milling Machine - tools - by owner - sale
					

Alliant 9' by 42' variable speed milling machine, 2 HP. Can be seen under power. 1 set R8 collets and mill vise. 2800.00 or best offer.



					sarasota.craigslist.org


----------



## wachuko

BGHansen said:


> Here are some options off Craig's List.  I used the website "www.searchtempest.com".  It lets you specify price range, driving range, etc.  It looks up stuff on eBay and CL.  You may try Facebook Marketplace too.  They have MANY more listings for stuff than CL.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> $4500 Sharp with DRO, collets, vise, variable-speed head.  Looks to be in decent shape, just South of Tampa
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> milling machine - tools - by owner - sale
> 
> 
> BRIDGEPORT TYPE MILLING MACHINE ---(sharp brand) ------- HARD CHROME WAYS ARE LIKE NEW -------(pictures) ------- DIGITAL READOUT --------- KURT TYPE VISE --------- WAY COVERS ----------- COLLET RACK...
> 
> 
> 
> sarasota.craigslist.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $2500 Birmingham with 9" x 49" table and X-axis power feed.  No tooling, variable-speed head, Port Charlotte (South of Tampa, but you know the town . . .)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bridgeport style Milling Machine - tools - by owner - sale
> 
> 
> Birmingham milling machine. 220 volt, 3 phase. The table is 49" x 9". The table movement is 29" x 12".
> 
> 
> 
> fortmyers.craigslist.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $4250 Bridgeport 1 HP belt-drive with a VFD installed (so variable speed).  Kurt vise, X-axis power feed, 42" table, North of Orlando
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bridgeport Milling Machine - tools - by owner - sale
> 
> 
> Very nice Bridgeport Milling Machine. Everything works and checked out by a trained professional with documentation.1 H.P. 3 phase with a V.F.D. which allows it to run on 240 volt single phase...
> 
> 
> 
> ocala.craigslist.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $2800 Alliant, 42" table, variable-speed head, collets and a vise.  In the Bradenton area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Milling Machine - tools - by owner - sale
> 
> 
> Alliant 9' by 42' variable speed milling machine, 2 HP. Can be seen under power. 1 set R8 collets and mill vise. 2800.00 or best offer.
> 
> 
> 
> sarasota.craigslist.org



Thank you!  I will start a thread in this section... will place your quote there as you hit on a couple of the machines I was looking at... So far I have been creating a thread for each of the machine I was looking at, pretty good deals, only to lose those to the person in front of me...  

So maybe one thread to get feedback on the ones I am looking at and help me determine which one would be the best option...
Buying a Machine? Get advice and help here!​


----------



## wachuko

Bought it... picking it up this Friday...  From the ad:

_"Mighty Lift used working pallet jacks. Weight capacity is 5500 lbs. All will be in working condition but will have to use foot pedal to release down. Price is $125 each."_

So guessing that the hand operated lever is toast... would be a nice challenge to get that working again, if possible...


----------



## Eyerelief

wachuko said:


> Bought it... picking it up this Friday...  From the ad:
> 
> _"Mighty Lift used working pallet jacks. Weight capacity is 5500 lbs. All will be in working condition but will have to use foot pedal to release down. Price is $125 each."_
> 
> So guessing that the hand operated lever is toast... would be a nice challenge to get that working again, if possible...
> 
> View attachment 388701
> 
> View attachment 388702


At the end of the day, its just a hydraulic jack.  If it is not leaking, it should be OK.  If it is, shouldn't be to hard to reseal.  If your luck like I was, the linkage is busted.  If that is the case, its an easy fix.  You will be glad you bought it


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> Bought it... picking it up this Friday...  From the ad:
> 
> _"Mighty Lift used working pallet jacks. Weight capacity is 5500 lbs. All will be in working condition but will have to use foot pedal to release down. Price is $125 each."_
> 
> So guessing that the hand operated lever is toast... would be a nice challenge to get that working again, if possible...
> 
> View attachment 388701
> 
> View attachment 388702


that's a great price. I'm sure it won't be too hard to get the hand release working... nice score... YOU SUCK..
Around here they are hard to find. One guy will only sell 6 at a time.

btw, if the sharp is in good shape, it's a top of the line mill. Sharp was always known for quality.


----------



## slodat

UPS just dropped this off. Been on my shopping list since I first read of it.


----------



## extropic

@wachuko 

Good buy on that pallet jack.

It's very important to get the hydraulic control on the handle back in reliable working order. It's a critical safety feature.


----------



## wachuko

extropic said:


> @wachuko
> 
> Good buy on that pallet jack.
> 
> It's very important to get the hydraulic control on the handle back in reliable working order. It's a critical safety feature.



My plan is to fix it.  Looking at the assembly videos. Should be an easy fix... Worse case scenario, a complete handle assembly is 90.00.


----------



## wachuko

Got it!




And this looks like it can be repaired


----------



## Doug Gray

The thingy is off the whats'it


----------



## extropic

@wachuko

What is the function of the white rectangular part (w/2 fasteners protruding) shrouding the steer wheels?


----------



## Steve-F

That's a keep your foot from getting run over thingy:<)


----------



## FOMOGO

And here I thought it was a scraper for working around horse poo. Mike



Steve-F said:


> That's a keep your foot from getting run over thingy:<)


----------



## woodchucker

Oops: wrong thread sorry.


----------



## Nogoingback

Feedback On A Purchase...

Back in February I posted that I had bought a bottle of cutting oil to reduce the smoke and smell.  Seemed OK initially: the smell and
smoke was minimal and as a cutting fluid it seemed fine.  But, what I learned was that if it isn't cleaned off everything  it 
turns into a sticky, hard to remove mess that causes corrosion.  Can't recommend this stuff at all: I'm still cleaning it off tool holders
and the nooks and crannies of my chucks.  Bought some regular Tap Magic and all is well.


----------



## WobblyHand

Nogoingback said:


> Feedback On A Purchase...
> 
> Back in February I posted that I had bought a bottle of cutting oil to reduce the smoke and smell.  Seemed OK initially: the smell and
> smoke was minimal and as a cutting fluid it seemed fine.  But, what I learned was that if it isn't cleaned off everything  it
> turns into a sticky, hard to remove mess that causes corrosion.  Can't recommend this stuff at all: I'm still cleaning it off tool holders
> and the nooks and crannies of my chucks.  Bought some regular Tap Magic and all is well.
> 
> 
> View attachment 389167


Regular Tap Magic works pretty well, but it smokes and it discolors in the presence of some materials.  I have a plastic oil cup and the chips in the oil end up turning it quite dark after a while.  It also attacks zinc, and probably other metals.  I have found I need to thoroughly remove regular Tap Magic from my drill bits before I put the bits back in a Huot index.  If not, it attacks the plating in the index.  

I have also tried Anchor Lube which one can dilute with water.  That works pretty well and does not smoke.  It wipes up with a damp paper towel.


----------



## devils4ever

Yep, that's my experience with Tap Magic. Some metals discolor and some don't. I only use it when I know I can wipe everything down soon after completing the machining.

The only cutting fluid that I found is safe to leave on machines and cutting tools is Boelube. It comes in liquid, paste, and solid forms.


----------



## woodchucker

I guess I don't do enough ... I have never noticed.
I use tap magic EP-Xtra, oatley dark, Mobil 766, Tap Magic Aluminum, Anchor lube, WD40 (for al) and I have not seen staining.
I guess it's the metals I use... I also usually clean off with alcohol or acetone... but I don't remember staining. I'll be on the lookout from now on.


----------



## Nogoingback

I used to use Rapid Tap. Never noticed any discoloration at all and it worked well, but smoked and stank
badly which is why I stopped using it.  Never needed to clean it up though.


----------



## Brento

This week i got my cabinet from walmart. Seems pretty heavy duty and it was more then half off so i couldn’t resist. 
	

		
			
		

		
	



Then last night when i went shopping ive been looking at getting a bigger shopvac but smallerr then what my dads was. Hart has a 8 gal one with a 6HP motor and my dads was a 6.25HP motor with a 16 gal bucket. The bigger takes up to much space. So when i went shopping i saw the tag said 76$ but they are usually 90$. Slo we took a picture of the be tag and a shop vac and went to check out. Low and behold they scan it and it comes up 90$  so we show them the picture and got it for 76$ after we had a couple of words.


----------



## addertooth

Although it was ordered in July, my new 5 process welder arrived yesterday.  YesWelder MP200.  It does Flux-Core wire welding, Stick, TIG, MIG, and Plasma Cutting.  It will compliment my other two welders in the shop.  I previously did not have the ability to plasma cut.


----------



## brino

addertooth said:


> Although it was ordered in July, my new 5 process welder arrived yesterday. YesWelder MP200.


I'd love some feedback on it when you've had a chance to test it out.
-brino


----------



## addertooth

brino said:


> I'd love some feedback on it when you've had a chance to test it out.
> -brino


I will be happy to give some feedback on it (when I have a few hours on it).  I got it under the "kickstarter promotion", and only paid about $500.  Now they are around $915.  
I have welded for a while now (I have two other welders).   But, my step-son is attending welding school, and I wanted to encourage him to stay on his path, so I got the welder for him.  It does have the auto-configuration feature for MIG welding, you tell it the thickness of your wire, and wire type, and the thickness of the metal you are welding, and it will auto-set to the settings required for the weld.  This is a great feature for a novice welder to learn with.


----------



## 682bear

One of my co-workers brought me this this morning...










It's a Delta Milwaukee 12 inch disc sander. Several years ago, this was in the shop at work... I've used it a few times. Someone managed to break the table trunnions, so the company scrapped it. My co-worker bought it from the company and replaced the trunnions, but never used it.

I'm assuming it still runs... but I don't know... I'll have to wire it up and see if it will. I'll start a thread about that...

-Bear


----------



## Firstram

A deburring wheel on the back shaft would be awesome!


----------



## 682bear

Firstram said:


> A deburring wheel on the back shaft would be awesome!



That's a great idea!

-Bear


----------



## brino

On Sunday at my local used tool place I found an interesting pair of old pliers.









The handles can swing a full 360 degrees "inside-out" to provide a two sets of jaws.






I was thinking they were a blacksmiths heading tool, but once home I looked up the Klein part number and found this:



and apparently it's a "Combination Wire and Sleeve Clamp"

They should come in very handy!

-brino


----------



## Firstram

So many options to raise a blood blister, I like it!


----------



## wachuko

Got this today...








And this I got the day before yesterday...




Now to organize everything... today and the day before yesterday, was all about just getting these home...   Lots of cleaning to do...


----------



## woodchucker

wow you suck...
A wells index.. nice mill.
And a 14" Grizz... 
Now you have to feed the habit...


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> wow you suck...
> A wells index.. nice mill.
> And a 14" Grizz...
> Now you have to feed the habit...



The owner of the machine shop had a few other machines for sale; surface grinders, more lathes of different vintage, another small mill, and one machine that I have no idea what it is for.... I was in a hurry so did not ask about it... just took a photo and when I go back to return all the pallets and lumber I borrowed from him, I will ask about those...

Here, this is the one I had no clue what it was/is...


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> The owner of the machine shop had a few other machines for sale; surface grinders, more lathes of different vintage, another small mill, and one machine that I have no idea what it is for.... I was in a hurry so did not ask about it... just took a photo and when I go back to return all the pallets and lumber I borrowed from him, I will ask about those...
> 
> Here, this is the one I had no clue what it was/is...
> 
> View attachment 389597
> View attachment 389596


thats an atlas horizontal mill... a small benchtop unit. They are in demand again.. Not as much as the little shaper.. but still in demand for home hobbyists.  Looks in good condition...


----------



## Aukai

Just for the record....
One day you will regret not getting the shaper, and horizontal mill. Get em if you can store them, I would
That is an awesome haul.


----------



## francist

wachuko said:


> this is the one I had no clue what it was/is...





woodchucker said:


> thats an atlas horizontal mill..


And with the original vise, no less. The overarm has been modified (or replaced with a modified one) to accept larger diameter cutters by the looks of it but otherwise it does look in decent shape. Power feed on the table is there too.

-frank


----------



## sycle1

WOW wachuko you do suck!​Congrats on the new additions.
The horizontal mill would be a great addition! Just saying! hehe


----------



## wachuko

You guys are sick…  

I am dry, empty, finito… no más.  I emptied my savings for these two…


----------



## slodat

This was four weeks in the making. Brought it all home today. 2001 Haas TM1, Acra 16x40 and a lot of tooling.


----------



## Aukai

Wow, you suck too!! Congratulations


----------



## Aukai

wachuko, that leaves the credit cards open, if they're maxed out raise the limit....


----------



## Brento

I put together that Hart cabinet i bought last week. I also bout some ER40 Collets for my ER40 chuck i bought from @ddickey


----------



## Bi11Hudson

I found a protractor at a good price. Chinese, but for less than I paid for a similar device 20 odd years ago. $5.50. plus shipping, one of those finds where shipping cost more than the item. It appears to be new in package, if ever used it was slight and returned to the package. I didn't need it, I already have one. But it was at a good price. Only thing I can find is the foam padding is missing. My Christmas present to me, I guess.



.


----------



## Steve-F

wachuko said:


> The owner of the machine shop had a few other machines for sale; surface grinders, more lathes of different vintage, another small mill, and one machine that I have no idea what it is for.... I was in a hurry so did not ask about it... just took a photo and when I go back to return all the pallets and lumber I borrowed from him, I will ask about those...
> 
> Here, this is the one I had no clue what it was/is...
> 
> View attachment 389597
> View attachment 389596


That's a Atlas Horizontal , actually well made machines  Opps, Woodchucker beat me to it:<)


----------



## woodchucker

@slodat  you guys are buying a ton of Christmas presents for yourselves. 

YOU SUCK too..

Enjoy.


----------



## BladesIIB

Vyper Elevated Steel Max Chair.  Awesome Christmas gift.  Truly more of a want than a need and likely would not buy it for myself, so Christmas was a great reason to ask for one.  I have seen these Vyper chairs advertised for a while and really did need a better chair in my shop.  Could not be happier, the fit and finish is everything I hoped for.  This chair is super sturdy and comfortable.


----------



## woodchucker

BladesIIB said:


> Vyper Elevated Steel Max Chair.  Awesome Christmas gift.  Truly more of a want than a need and likely would not buy it for myself, so Christmas was a great reason to ask for one.  I have seen these Vyper chairs advertised for a while and really did need a better chair in my shop.  Could not be happier, the fit and finish is everything I hoped for.  This chair is super sturdy and comfortable.


nice but holy cow $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$


----------



## Braeden P

Got an OXA for the hardinge! Smaller than I thought but it is sturdy.


----------



## BladesIIB

woodchucker said:


> nice but holy cow $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$


Yeah I know. Hard to get past that for sure. Thank goodness for Christmas splurging once in a while.


----------



## woodchucker

BladesIIB said:


> Yeah I know. Hard to get past that for sure. Thank goodness for Christmas splurging once in a while.


I could by a Hermann Miller Aeron chair for that price on ebay...
I don't think I would buy a chair like that...

But enjoy it.. glad you supported them, and hope you do enjoy it.  It does look like a good chair.


----------



## NCjeeper

Merry Christmas to me. Buying this Monarch 25n lathe. 27.5" swing and 102" between centers. Just have to work out the transport logistics.


----------



## Doug Gray

BladesIIB said:


> Vyper Elevated Steel Max Chair.  Awesome Christmas gift.  Truly more of a want than a need and likely would not buy it for myself, so Christmas was a great reason to ask for one.  I have seen these Vyper chairs advertised for a while and really did need a better chair in my shop.  Could not be happier, the fit and finish is everything I hoped for.  This chair is super sturdy and comfortable.


Back rest... that's not a back rest. This is a back rest.



Maybe it is time to think of an upgrade thought. Its 25+ years.


----------



## Aukai

Jeepers, that's a big lathe


----------



## Firstram

Doug Gray said:


> Back rest... that's not a back rest. This is a back rest.
> View attachment 389778
> 
> 
> Maybe it is time to think of an upgrade thought. Its 25+ years.


Just broken in!


----------



## mmcmdl

NCjeeper said:


> Merry Christmas to me. Buying this Monarch 25n lathe. 27.5" swing and 102" between centers. Just have to work out the transport logistics.





Aukai said:


> Jeepers, that's a big lathe


Sure do and sure is ! You're gonna need a DA post and holders for that !


----------



## FOMOGO

You just can't buy patina like that. Mike



Firstram said:


> Just broken in!


----------



## 7milesup

woodchucker said:


> I could by a Hermann Miller Aeron chair


That is the exact chair I am looking at for my home office.  I need to find one to sit in though before I pull the trigger.


----------



## finsruskw

NCjeeper said:


> Merry Christmas to me. Buying this Monarch 25n lathe. 27.5" swing and 102" between centers. Just have to work out the transport logistics.
> View attachment 389774


Looks familiar....
I hauled one of those once as part of a plant buy-out from KY to Iowa
It came apart in the middle and was longer than that.


----------



## Nogoingback

NCjeeper said:


> Merry Christmas to me. Buying this Monarch 25n lathe. 27.5" swing and 102" between centers. Just have to work out the transport logistics.
> View attachment 389774


Cool machine.   Just trying to figure out the "hobby" part of that purchase.


----------



## Firstram

Nogoingback said:


> Cool machine.   Just trying to figure out the "hobby" part of that purchase.


Moving heavy things?


----------



## NCjeeper

Like they say: You can make small parts on a big lathe, but you can't make big parts on a small lathe.


----------



## wachuko

Well... so much for waiting until next year...

I should be searching for a VFD for my new-to-me milling machine... instead, I bought a 2-Ton gantry crane...


----------



## Aukai

Yeah, yeah, I'm not seeing it


----------



## woodchucker

Well, I haven't bought it yet, but I'll have to replace this Carbide bit that I just broke .
I was drilling out my boring head. It was hard to put anything in the 2 vertical spots. They would air lock.. I figured they needed a hole to release the air.  My boring tool is made in Taiwan, and is very hard. I tried a HSS, wouldn't touch it. I didn't try my cobalt, I could tell I needed carbide.
as it was coming through it snapped. it only came through 1/32 when it broke....
I took out another carbide bit and did the other hole, then came back to this one and enlarged it...
This was a USA made carbide drill bit.. screw machine size.. 



edit: Oh boy, it was a #7  damn... perfect for a 1/4 - 20


----------



## Janderso

Paragon kiln.
A guy at work overheard me talking about the Hotshot 360. They run $1,000.

He said he has a Paragon kiln that gets over 2’000 degrees that’s never been plugged in.
?. I bought it for $100. I just checked, it's $912 for this unit.
It has a digital pyrometer in its new package inside the kiln.
I‘ll play with it to see how it works.
Hopefully I can use it as a heat treating oven??


----------



## Gaffer

If you get into it and want ramp and soak, consider converting the controls with a PID setup. It’s the cat’s meow!


----------



## BladesIIB

Janderso said:


> Paragon kiln.
> A guy at work overheard me talking about the Hotshot 360. They run $1,000
> He said he has a Paragon kiln that gets over 2’000 degrees that’s never been plugged in.
> ?. I bought it for $100.
> It has a digital pyrometer in its new package inside the kiln.
> I‘ll play with it to see how it works.
> Hopefully I can use it as a heat treating oven??


I have a Paragon knife kiln for heat treating. They are nice kilns. As mentioned you may want to consider a digital programmable controller to help with heat treating. For what you paid, nice buy. Congrats.


----------



## Janderso

BladesIIB said:


> I have a Paragon knife kiln for heat treating. They are nice kilns. As mentioned you may want to consider a digital programmable controller to help with heat treating. For what you paid, nice buy. Congrats.


Awesome.
Could you please direct me to the correct controller?
I have no idea where to begin. I know they can be controlled much better with a quality programmable device.
Thank you for your guidance!
I love your channel by the way. Yes I subscribed.
Jeff

From their web site>>>
You can use these kilns for annealing beads and glass, painting china, applying decals, dental work, fusing dichroic glasses, enamelling, fire polishing, glass art, glass casting, fusing, sagging, and slumping, glass clays, heat treating, knife making, laboratory testing, lampwork, lost-wax casting, low-fire ceramics, making jewellery, melting gold and silver, firing bronze and copper metal clays, moulding gun and model parts, pâte de verre, sintering gold and silver clays, staining glass, hardening and tempering blades, cutters, dies, and tools, wax burn out, and many other materials and processes.


----------



## BladesIIB

Janderso said:


> Awesome.
> Could you please direct me to the correct controller?
> I have no idea where to begin. I know they can be controlled much better with a quality programmable device.
> Thank you for your guidance!
> I love your channel by the way. Yes I subscribed.
> Jeff
> 
> Thanks for the sub. I have the Sentry 2.0 controller on mine. They may have an updated version?  Maybe search and see if you can find a Sentry controller used somewhere?  I have a video for n my channel for programming and using it for knife treating. Also posted on this forum if you search Paragon it should come up. If not let me know and I can PM it to you.


----------



## Janderso

Wow, $396 for that one.
Sure looks nice though.


----------



## woodchucker

Janderso said:


> Wow, $396 for that one.
> Sure looks nice though.


Why not lookup what Stan used for the hot shots.


----------



## BladesIIB

Janderso said:


> Wow, $396 for that one.
> Sure looks nice though.


Yes that is pricey. Maybe a used one will pop up. Although even at that, $496 all in for a good kiln is not bad. I paid a lot more for mine many years ago.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

woodchucker said:


> edit: Oh boy, it was a #7  damn... perfect for a 1/4 - 20



I've got about 60lb of carbide drills, I can have a look if I have any #7 of you want


----------



## 7milesup

My old compressor sprung a hole in its tank.  Probably lucky I didn't get hurt.  The funny thing is the wife and I were talking not too long ago about getting rid of the old compressor for safety reasons.  So, decided on this one.  Going to make a moveable stand for it.


----------



## woodchucker

mattthemuppet2 said:


> I've got about 60lb of carbide drills, I can have a look if I have any #7 of you want


Thanks, I appreciate the offer. I'm putting together an order for a bunch of drills right now. it won't be an issue adding the carbide.. I looked it up, it's $19 from msdiscounttool.com  Here in NJ, and I need a bunch of screw size wire gauge bits that are missing from my screw size wire gauge index. and for my tapping block... I have a block that has drill, gun tap, bottom  tap, and through drill for 6-32 up to 5/16 since they are the most common for me.

If I change my mind, I'll let you know.


----------



## woodchucker

7milesup said:


> My old compressor sprung a hole in its tank.  Probably lucky I didn't get hurt.  The funny thing is the wife and I were talking not too long ago about getting rid of the old compressor for safety reasons.  So, decided on this one.  Going to make a moveable stand for it.
> 
> View attachment 390226
> View attachment 390225


is that a 30 or 60 gal tank?

Remember that it's top heavy, make sure the moveable base supports it from tipping, or get a pallet jack.


----------



## Larry$

Janderso said:


> Wow, $396 for that one.


I purchase a digital controller from Automation Direct for a different kind of machine. Good control capable of ramps etc. I needed some help in setting it up and got it from Automation Direct with no problem. I've used a lot of their pneumatic parts in my business. Always good stuff.


----------



## sanagnos

I bought a SAIM E-4 surface grinder!


----------



## woodchucker

Larry$ said:


> I purchase a digital controller from Automation Direct for a different kind of machine. Good control capable of ramps etc. I needed some help in setting it up and got it from Automation Direct with no problem. I've used a lot of their pneumatic parts in my business. Always good stuff.


yep, reasonable prices: https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/process_control_-a-_measurement/temperature_-z-_process_controllers/solo_standard_temperature_controllers/1-z-16_din_size_(sl4848_series)#sort=undefined asc&start=0

All of them every category out of stock... but at around $100 I would wait for them... they are the Hot Shot controllers.
You can setup a notify me for when they come in.


----------



## 7milesup

woodchucker said:


> is that a 30 or 60 gal tank?
> 
> Remember that it's top heavy, make sure the moveable base supports it from tipping, or get a pallet jack.


It is a 30 gallon.  I'm planning on a 22"x24" base with a set of large wheels and machine base pads.


----------



## Janderso

sanagnos said:


> I bought a SAIM E-4 surface grinder!


Pics please


----------



## Christianstark

I bought some new tools and accessories for the shop today. Been having a hard time milling pockets in aluminum with my end mills. Cheat TiN coated ones but maybe coolant and chip evacuation will help, and I got some metric taps as I plan on making Phil Vandelays belt grinder.

also got 4 new tool holders for the lathe as a start. Will build up significantly as my tooling grows. AI has a sale going on right now. I think I may also buy a few Colton’s and compare with the AI branded ones.


----------



## Janderso

Gaffer said:


> If you get into it and want ramp and soak, consider converting the controls with a PID setup. It’s the cat’s meow!


PID setup?
I watched a Keith Rucker video, he has his laptop connected to his Hotshot 360. That would be cool and much easier to program.


----------



## woodchucker

Janderso said:


> PID setup?
> I watched a Keith Rucker video, he has his laptop connected to his Hotshot 360. That would be cool and much easier to program.


He has a new controller, American Rotary asked Automation Direct to expose the USB... You have the usb on the old controller, but you have to pull the module from it's holder, the new one, wires it to an external usb.  Talk to Stan...


----------



## woodchucker

Bought this on EBAY for only $18... Most excellent buy... it grinds nicely.
I didn't balance it yet, but gave it a test run.  ahhhhhhhhhh.
Had to reboot the modem... I'm BAAACKKKKKK


----------



## Janderso

woodchucker said:


> Bought this on EBAY for only $18... Most excellent buy... it grinds nicely.
> I didn't balance it yet, but gave it a test run.  ahhhhhhhhhh.
> Had to reboot the modem... I'm BAAACKKKKKK
> 
> View attachment 390295


You bought what on ebay?
the grinder?


----------



## NCjeeper

For 18 bucks I am guessing he is talking about the red grinding wheel.


----------



## woodchucker

NCjeeper said:


> For 18 bucks I am guessing he is talking about the red grinding wheel.


Yep, it's a Radiac, brand new, still in original shrink wrap.. And they are not usually this inexpensive.  This is an older label.


----------



## addertooth

This Gasoline powered Dayton Speedaire compressor was purchased to support Plasma Cutting.  It's 8 HP Kohler engine will make one less thing to run a power cord to.  It is old-school silver-grey.   

It looks ragged, but it runs.


----------



## Aukai

A couple new additions, Haas 4", and Kennametal holders...


----------



## Dhal22

Janderso said:


> Pics please




Yes.


----------



## matthewsx

This cute little guy was just up the road from me.


----------



## matthewsx




----------



## woodchucker

what size is that? It looks like a 12 or 14"


----------



## Ianagos

wachuko said:


> The owner of the machine shop had a few other machines for sale; surface grinders, more lathes of different vintage, another small mill, and one machine that I have no idea what it is for.... I was in a hurry so did not ask about it... just took a photo and when I go back to return all the pallets and lumber I borrowed from him, I will ask about those...
> 
> Here, this is the one I had no clue what it was/is...
> 
> View attachment 389597
> View attachment 389596



Does the seller still have any stuff? You are so far and it seems like they may have some things I’d be interested in.


----------



## matthewsx

woodchucker said:


> what size is that? It looks like a 12 or 14"


12” perfect for my little shop out here.

John


----------



## brino

matthewsx said:


> This cute little guy was just up the road from me.



Very nice!
I was gonna ask for a better picture of that tag.....but I didn't have to....... thanks!

Are those cast blade covers?

Brian


----------



## woodchucker

is it WW or geared for machining?
It's a nice looking unit. I hope you restore her.. Love the look.


----------



## matthewsx

brino said:


> Very nice!
> I was gonna ask for a better picture of that tag.....but I didn't have to....... thanks!
> 
> Are those cast blade covers?
> 
> Brian


Yes, the blade cover is cast, not sure from what but it does have one repair.

John


----------



## matthewsx

woodchucker said:


> is it WW or geared for machining?
> It's a nice looking unit. I hope you restore her.. Love the look.


Restoration is definitely on the docket, and use. I was planning to convert a vertical unit I have but this will be much better.

The guy I bought it from wanted the legs but it’ll work better for me mounted on the cart which holds my clod saw, grinder and die filer. No motor so I’ll either work out the right ratio for one of my 110v motors or find a dc or three phase for variable speed. 

John


----------



## mattthemuppet2

jwmelvin said:


> Holy moly! That’s impressive. It will be fun to see you sort it out. Nice job just dealing with all that.


I've just finished


----------



## Brento

That took some time i bet


----------



## mattthemuppet2

it surely did! Going to be a second full time job listing and selling it


----------



## Brento

That was always fun to do


----------



## Brento

I will be looking to see what goodies you list


----------



## wachuko

I ordered the 6 leveling pads and an MT-3 heavy duty live center for my new-to-me lathe...


----------



## erikmannie

I bought six (6) 3XL t-shirts for only $16.99 each delivered. What a great deal!









						LeBlond Lathe T-Shirt (Rare Vintage Machine tool logo) on Gildan 6oz  | eBay
					

Cut of this shirt is the traditional boxy type shirt. -The white portions of this shirt are now printed with regular Opaque Antique White Ink.



					www.ebay.com


----------



## woodchucker

Nice, are those benefitting one of the Youtube people , or just the vendor?


----------



## NCjeeper

I have a couple of the G&E shirts.


----------



## FOMOGO

I have a Pink Floyd T-shirt, does that count. Mike


----------



## erikmannie

woodchucker said:


> Nice, are those benefitting one of the Youtube people , or just the vendor?



I don’t think that it has anything to do with YouTube. I don’t know if these companies (Monarch et al) are getting compensated for using their logos on the shirts.

I *only* wear shirts with machining and welding logos. I used to buy most of these shirts from machinistlife.com, but this website is defunct at the moment.


----------



## Brento

I bought a bit ago 2 shirts from the guys that made the 6 jaw scroll chuck. The one reminds me of a lunch lady.


----------



## Aukai

The arbor for the 4" Hass came in today.


----------



## Brento

That thing is a beaut!!


----------



## brino

Brento said:


> I bought a bit ago 2 shirts from the guys that made the 6 jaw scroll chuck. The one reminds me of a lunch lady.



Perhaps I am thick Brent, but I do not get the reference....... care to enlighten me?

Thanks,
Brian


----------



## NCjeeper

I think he is referring to the YouTuber Ci' Lem.


----------



## Brento

I will take a picture of it once i am done eating.


----------



## Brento

This shirt. I cant find it now on Teespring but it was Ca Lem’s


----------



## BROCKWOOD

My new to me Tree Boring Head was first used by Northrop! Instructions are here https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/tree-taper-boring-tool.97243/
Wanted to be sure it works properly - but soon got tired of turning it by hand only to not see anything happen. So, i chucked it in my lathe & let her fly. Makes sense now: At 0.005 advancement per revolution. it takes 400 turns per inch. EDIT: Should have said, 400 turns for a total of 2". I had heard some of the newer ones have a quicker advance. Probably best that it is slow!


----------



## extropic

BROCKWOOD said:


> My new to me Tree Boring Head was first used by Northrop! Instructions are here https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/tree-taper-boring-tool.97243/
> Wanted to be sure it works properly - but soon got tired of turning it by hand only to not see anything happen. So, i chucked it in my lathe & let her fly. Makes sense now: *At 0.005 advancement per revolution. it takes 400 turns per inch.* I had heard some of the newer ones have a quicker advance. Probably best that it is slow!


Very nice piece.

Math . . . not so much.  1/.005 = 200


----------



## BROCKWOOD

I'll chalk the math up to poor memory. 2" total travel is 400. My bad.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

*Drool, Drool, Slobber, Slobber. . . *

For years I have wanted a decent jointer. I have drooled and slobbered over catalogs until the pages fell apart, but a full size jointer was beyond my reach. Seems every time I make a little more money, the price goes up. Inflation. . . So they have stayed just beyond my reach. I have a planer and with a little tinkering can joint a longer board if there is enough excess to trim off the "snipe". But for short pieces not so good. So I wait a little longer. . . I am aware of two Craftsman jointers, one with an internal motor, one external. Only a couple of feet long, quite satisfactory for using oak flooring to build a tool chest. The current flooring is smaller than when I was a kid. A 4 foot piece is rare and it's only 3/4 inch thick.

So, last Thursday, I followed up an advert on Craig's List. The price was something I was willing to pay. That's been my biggest hangup, a used machine at a new machine price. Some people must think their machines are made of gold. This seller was quite accommodating when I mentioned my wheelchair, and offered to deliver it. So when I answered the door, he was unloading, the machine separate from the stand. The stand?? I had commited to a jointer, sans motor and stand. Then he unloads 4 feet plus of jointer. A monster, fully 6 inch (plus) knives, 1/8 inch cut in softer wood, 1/2 HP motor, my dream machine. First thing I did was inspect the knives, and feel the bearings. Dead smooth. . . Craftsman 113.206932  I wasn't aware Sears had that large a jointer. It's like commiting to a 6X12 inch lathe and getting an Atlas 12X36. Sorry, my camera is broken. No photos, but a stock item. Just a whale of a lot bigger than I imagined.

.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

For Bi11Hudson & the rest of us wanting to see his prize!









						CRAFTSMAN 113.206891 OWNER'S MANUAL Pdf Download
					

View and Download Craftsman 113.206891 owner's manual online. 6-1/8-iNCH JOINTER-PLANER. 113.206891 planer pdf manual download. Also for: 113.206932.




					www.manualslib.com


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Thank you, Sir.


----------



## Christianstark

Bi11Hudson said:


> Thank you, Sir.


My dad has one of those! Nice!


----------



## Kevin T

BROCKWOOD said:


> My new to me Tree Boring Head was first used by Northrop! Instructions are here https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/tree-taper-boring-tool.97243/
> Wanted to be sure it works properly - but soon got tired of turning it by hand only to not see anything happen. So, i chucked it in my lathe & let her fly. Makes sense now: At 0.005 advancement per revolution. it takes 400 turns per inch. EDIT: Should have said, 400 turns for a total of 2". I had heard some of the newer ones have a quicker advance. Probably best that it is slow!
> 
> View attachment 390680


I may have known some of the guys who used that thing in Hawthorne CA! I started there in the tooling department in Jan 1985. I'm still friends with some of the machinists from that era on FB. Looks like a good score!


----------



## jwmelvin

A while back, I bought a used Albrecht drill chuck for $75, through another forum. I disassembled and cleaned it, and unfortunately the jaws were chewed up enough that it did a poor job aligning cylindrical items to the spindle. I poked around a bit but didn’t come across any inexpensive jaws. So finally, placing a McMaster order for some rivets, I added a set of Albrecht jaws. $140 was a tough pill to swallow, but it seemed like my best option. 

I’ll say that I’m glad I did it, as the first project involved drilling #54 (0.055”, right on the limit of what a c130 chuck should grip) and the chuck gripped well and spun the bits without noticeable runout. I haven’t yet chucked a pin to measure runout (part of me is afraid to find out) but using the chuck was an absolute pleasure. 

The jaws make a partial appearance here:






I also trimmed the chuck’s 3/4” arbor down to roughly R8 engagement length so it’s easy to get in and out of a collet.


----------



## wachuko

Got a few things for the G0709 Lathe:

Replacement/spare/missing parts:
(1) P07090434 - COVER PLATE from Grizzly
(1) P07090527 - HALF NUT ASSEMBLY from Grizzly - I just wanted a spare... the one on the lathe is in perfect condition.  Got it since I was already ordering the missing cover plate and carbide tipped dead center
(1) P4003G0024 - DEAD CENTER MT#3 CARBIDE TIPPED from Grizzly

To replace the hex bolts used in the locks for handles:
(1) Carriage Lock: 6848K52 Metric Die Cast Zinc Adjustable Handle, M8 X 1.25 Thread X 60MM Stud from McMaster-Carr
(1 of each) Cross Slide and (1) Compound Lock Handle - 6848K38 Metric Die Cast Zinc Adjustable Handle, M6 X 1 Thread X 30MM Stud and 6848K35 Metric Die Cast Zinc Adjustable Handle, M6 X 1 Thread X 15MM Stud from McMaster-Carr




Some improvements:
(1) 6 " 150 mm Digital Readout Read Out DRO Hardened Stainless Steel Beam Resolution 0.0005" - to install on tailstock...


----------



## WobblyHand

A couple of odds and ends.  Picked up a couple of dripper bottles for parting and applying cutting oil.  Also some 3/8-24 taps and a 3/8-24 die.  Just received a couple of small precision ground tool room stones to touch up my lathe slide and milling table.  


Used the 3/8-24 tap today to make a jam nut so I could remove the screw from an Aloris AXA-8 threading tool.  Had to mill off 0.050" from the bottom of the tool holder so I could set the tool bit to center.  My spindle center line is 0.947" over the compound.  The original tool bit height was 0.994" from the bottom of the tool holder.  I used a 3/8" carbide end mill with a 0.020" radius edge to remove the material. Needed to use a diamond hone to debur the edges, as a file just skated over the steel edges.  After polishing the bottom need to blacken it.  Don't like the idea of having it bare.  Not sure how to do that without messing with the rest of the finish.


Haven't tried the AXA-8 yet, as the compound is off.  Still trying to level the lathe.  Next is to use the stones to remove any minor irregularities on the slide, so I can put the level there.


----------



## 7milesup

BROCKWOOD said:


> For Bi11Hudson & the rest of us wanting to see his prize!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CRAFTSMAN 113.206891 OWNER'S MANUAL Pdf Download
> 
> 
> View and Download Craftsman 113.206891 owner's manual online. 6-1/8-iNCH JOINTER-PLANER. 113.206891 planer pdf manual download. Also for: 113.206932.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.manualslib.com


I know where there is a rather nice one.  Sitting unused at the moment.


----------



## Dhal22

I don't know what I bought.   Maybe 10-12" square and very heavy.   For $35 i figured it was worth looking at.


----------



## Brento

Looks like a movable pallet vise.


----------



## Dhal22

I think you're correct.


----------



## frugalguido

I purchased this cute little thing, hoping to turn into a metal saw than the limited vertical capacity of the 4x6. Love the art deco look!


----------



## 682bear

The brown truck brought me a package this afternoon...

This was an ebay buy... I looked at it for a week, not sure if I wanted to take a chance on it or not, it looked a little rough...




It's a 9 inch Buck set-tru...

After unpacking, inspecting, and disassembling, I'm glad I took a chance. It is in very good condition internally and works very smoothly.




I bought it to put on one of my Hendeys... but it came with a backplate that fits my South Bend... decisions...

-Bear


----------



## matthewsx

frugalguido said:


> I purchased this cute little thing, hoping to turn into a metal saw than the limited vertical capacity of the 4x6. Love the art deco look!
> View attachment 390869


Nice, looks similar to the Walker Turner I bought last week.

Looks like a recone job in the background....

JOhn


----------



## Papa Charlie

woodchucker said:


> He has a new controller, American Rotary asked Automation Direct to expose the USB... You have the usb on the old controller, but you have to pull the module from it's holder, the new one, wires it to an external usb.  Talk to Stan...


You can buy USB extentions with a Panel mount on the female end from Amazon for a couple of bucks. Not a big deal and would be nice to program with your computer.


----------



## woodchucker

Papa Charlie said:


> You can buy USB extentions with a Panel mount on the female end from Amazon for a couple of bucks. Not a big deal and would be nice to program with your computer.


I don't think that will work with their modules. The modules are pull out modules, so there would need to be wiring to the external shell. Right now the connector is inside , and is accessed by pulling the module. 
I don't know if you couldn't cut the shell and put it in, but I suspect the shell is more than a dumb shell. I think it's a link for power and electonics.


----------



## RJSakowski

For more than forty years, I have reground my dull or chipped drills by hand. They work OK but is difficult to get the angles right and the flutes even by eye.  

Last week, I bought a Drill Doctor 750X and it came in today.  The first few drills I reground look great.    Now, I'll have to set aside an afternoon to grind a bucket of drills.


----------



## Brento

I got an older one for like 50$ and i have trouble with the stupid thing. It never wants to line the drill up correctly to grind it. Im faster doing it by hand. My eyes also are only a half a day shy of 29 years old though lol.


----------



## Aukai

Happy almost birthday squirt....


----------



## Brento

Thanks. I know what im getting already. Im getting a 9x12 grade B surface plate for my shop from my parents.

Edit: next weekend at the Cabin Fever i may splurge and get some stuff for myself as well bc of all of the vendors.


----------



## wachuko

Brento said:


> I got an older one for like 50$ and i have trouble with the stupid thing. It never wants to line the drill up correctly to grind it. Im faster doing it by hand. My eyes also are only a half a day shy of 29 years old though lol.





RJSakowski said:


> For more than forty years, I have reground my dull or chipped drills by hand. They work OK but is difficult to get the angles right and the flutes even by eye.
> 
> Last week, I bought a Drill Doctor 750X and it came in today.  The first few drills I reground look great.    Now, I'll have to set aside an afternoon to grind a bucket of drills.



How stupid I feel throwing away all of those drill bits…

I just watched a video of that tool in action… Added to my wishlist!!


----------



## Brento

wachuko said:


> How stupid I feel throwing away all of those drill bits…
> 
> I just watched a video of that tool in action… Added to my wishlist!!


Never throw them away. If it came down to it buddy send them to me and i would sharpen them for you for a little compensation of time of ofcourse


----------



## Bi11Hudson

wachuko said:


> How stupid I feel throwing away all of those drill bits…
> I just watched a video of that tool in action… Added to my wishlist!!


Shame, Shame, Shame on you, Sir. Drill steel has so many uses I can't even start listing.

There is a "caveat" about using a Drill Doctor that I'm not sure of the origin. The flutes that form a "twist" drill *sometimes* have a variable twist. Most drills in my shop are a consistant twist. But I do have some that are a fuzz above or below the "normal". The Drill Dr uses the flutes as an alignment reference. Those "odd" drills finish with a reversed cutting end or so sharp they would make a good knife. 

I only have a few that won't sharpen properly. Most are set aside as steel stock as there are other "more normal" twist rates the same size. But there are a couple that I'm partial to. From the aircraft industry, they are long and of odd sizes. Those I just sharpen by hand, I don't have any choice in the matter. I suppose a grinder jig would work, but for the few that I have, not worth the money or space.

The end result is that I can give the Drill Dr *very high* marks for most "normal" drills. But there are* some* that will not sharpen. When you are aware of them and have set them aside, the Drill Dr pays for itself practically the first time it gets used. 

.


----------



## frugalguido

matthewsx said:


> Nice, looks similar to the Walker Turner I bought last week.
> 
> Looks like a recone job in the background....
> 
> JOhn


What size is that WT? This little one is 9".  Yep a JBL 2245H for a customer , getting ready for Citation 1 preamp restore and then a Mac mc2105.


----------



## mmcmdl

frugalguido said:


> Yep a JBL 2245H for a customer , getting ready for Citation 1 preamp restore and then a Mac mc2105.


Sweet !


----------



## wachuko

Ordered the VFD for the milling machine

DURApulse GS20 series AC general purpose drive, 230 VAC, 3hp with 1-phase input - GS21-23P0
DURApulse keypad mounting cable, 9.8ft/3m cable length - GS-CBL2-3L


----------



## matthewsx

frugalguido said:


> What size is that WT? This little one is 9".  Yep a JBL 2245H for a customer , getting ready for Citation 1 preamp restore and then a Mac mc2105.


My new saw is a 12".

I also just sold my last JBL's, they were in Karlsen coupler cabinets.

John


----------



## DavidR8

Been looking for a better drill press vise for a while. Found this old Craftsman vise.
Still going to build Tubalcain's floating vise


----------



## wachuko

DavidR8 said:


> Been looking for a better drill press vise for a while. Found this old Craftsman vise.
> Still going to build Tubalcain's floating vise
> View attachment 391034
> View attachment 391037


Very nice find.

I need to find something similar for mine... have not been looking hard enough... thank you for the reminder.


----------



## DavidR8

wachuko said:


> Very nice find.
> 
> I need to find something similar for mine... have not been looking hard enough... thank you for the reminder.


Thanks!
Finding it was a total fluke; classic case of lucking into a good deal


----------



## woodchucker

I have 2 palmgrens... I occasionally use them on the mill. I have put it in the BP vise a few times.
the other has articulating base, so it can do angles, and has come in handy when the BP vise won't easily do what I need.

you would think these would be drill press only, but sometimes they save the day.  my plain one has straight sides so I can throw it on its side... the groove in there is dead on.. so it's handy.


----------



## DavidR8

woodchucker said:


> I have 2 palmgrens... I occasionally use them on the mill. I have put it in the BP vise a few times.
> the other has articulating base, so it can do angles, and has come in handy when the BP vise won't easily do what I need.
> 
> you would think these would be drill press only, but sometimes they save the day.  my plain one has straight sides so I can throw it on its side... the groove in there is dead on.. so it's handy.


Oh vise in a vise... I knew there was a reason I want(ed) a toolmakers vise...


----------



## Christianstark

Ordered this sweet beast today.









						TIG225X AC/DC TIG Welder With Pulse
					

The TIG225X AC/DC TIG Welder features the versatility to suit the needs of hobbyists and professional welders alike. Order yours online at PrimeWeld.




					primeweld.com
				




My other welder is a Miller mutimatic215 but only does DC


----------



## wachuko

Christianstark said:


> Ordered this sweet beast today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TIG225X AC/DC TIG Welder With Pulse
> 
> 
> The TIG225X AC/DC TIG Welder features the versatility to suit the needs of hobbyists and professional welders alike. Order yours online at PrimeWeld.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> primeweld.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My other welder is a Miller mutimatic215 but only does DC


Sweet!!!


----------



## DavidR8

Christianstark said:


> Ordered this sweet beast today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TIG225X AC/DC TIG Welder With Pulse
> 
> 
> The TIG225X AC/DC TIG Welder features the versatility to suit the needs of hobbyists and professional welders alike. Order yours online at PrimeWeld.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> primeweld.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My other welder is a Miller mutimatic215 but only does DC


Well done, I really like mine!


----------



## wachuko

Ordered a few additional BXA tool holders for my new-to-me lathe.  Lathe came with two 202…

I ordered:

5-201
2-202
1-207 for parting tool
1-204 for boring bar


----------



## Kevin T

I find myself checking this thread often to see what kinds of things people are getting that I might "need". lol
My turn to play, just picked up a 60 degree thread micrometer. There are many times where I am near the end of threading but not sure how much more to take off to guarantee that it's right was the justification for purchase. There were a few of these to choose from and I decided to try one from the Starett plant in Scotland, which I didn't know existed! I thought all of it was from Athol Mass. I like the form fitting Sunglass case.


----------



## rwm

Can somebody school me on that Thread Micrometer. I though the ones with the fixed anvils were only for comparing two threads? Not for actually measuring the thread diameter. Obviously that could still be helpful if you are trying to machine a match to a known thread. There are mics with interchangeable anvils also where you select an anvil for a range of threads? Seems to me there should be a reference thread bookmarked for each tool like this. i.e. everything you always wanted to know about Thread Micrometers.


----------



## Papa Charlie

rwm said:


> Can somebody school me on that Thread Micrometer. I though the ones with the fixed anvils were only for comparing two threads? Not for actually measuring the thread diameter. Obviously that could still be helpful if you are trying to machine a match to a known thread. There are mics with interchangeable anvils also where you select an anvil for a range of threads? Seems to me there should be a reference thread bookmarked for each tool like this. i.e. everything you always wanted to know about Thread Micrometers.


Thread Micrometers are have anvils for specific pitches or pitch ranges. So if you are doing a lot of different ones, it can get expensive buying them.
One good thing is that most of us would be measuring threads in the 0-1" range. These mics have the same ranges as standard micrometers do.


----------



## RJSakowski

Bi11Hudson said:


> Shame, Shame, Shame on you, Sir. Drill steel has so many uses I can't even start listing.
> 
> There is a "caveat" about using a Drill Doctor that I'm not sure of the origin. The flutes that form a "twist" drill *sometimes* have a variable twist. Most drills in my shop are a consistant twist. But I do have some that are a fuzz above or below the "normal". The Drill Dr uses the flutes as an alignment reference. Those "odd" drills finish with a reversed cutting end or so sharp they would make a good knife.
> 
> I only have a few that won't sharpen properly. Most are set aside as steel stock as there are other "more normal" twist rates the same size. But there are a couple that I'm partial to. From the aircraft industry, they are long and of odd sizes. Those I just sharpen by hand, I don't have any choice in the matter. I suppose a grinder jig would work, but for the few that I have, not worth the money or space.
> 
> The end result is that I can give the Drill Dr *very high* marks for most "normal" drills. But there are* some* that will not sharpen. When you are aware of them and have set them aside, the Drill Dr pays for itself practically the first time it gets used.
> 
> .


The 750X has t6he ability to correct for variations in twist and explains as to what is the desirable setting.  I sharpened around 25 drills today, most of which I would classify as specialty.  Drill Doctor states that the angle between the chisel tip and the cutting edge should  be between 30º and 60º for a properly sharpened drill.  Adjustments can be made in 10º increments.


----------



## Kevin T

rwm said:


> Can somebody school me on that Thread Micrometer. I though the ones with the fixed anvils were only for comparing two threads? Not for actually measuring the thread diameter. Obviously that could still be helpful if you are trying to machine a match to a known thread. There are mics with interchangeable anvils also where you select an anvil for a range of threads? Seems to me there should be a reference thread bookmarked for each tool like this. i.e. everything you always wanted to know about Thread Micrometers.



I tested it on a 3/8-16 just to see what I was looking at and compared it to the machinery handbook. It was an old bolt that looked well made. It was a few thousandths under the minor diameter so I figured OK I can use this. I'll check again with some more bolts and threads to be sure. I have been using calipers so I figured this was an improvement!


----------



## BGHansen

I love the screw/thread pitch micrometers for single point threading.  I have wires (3-wire method), triangles and the micrometers.  Only use the mic's.  Mine have the chart below in each of the cases.

By the way, the delta between the major diameter and the pitch diameter is constant for a given threads per inch.  A 1/4-20 thread pitch diameter is 0.2175" which is 0.0325" under 0.25".  A 1/2-20 thread pitch is 0.4675" or the same 0.0325" under 0.5".  That comes in handy if you are doing a custom thread like a 1/4-16.  In that case, take the delta on a 3/8-16 (0.375" - 0.3344" or 0.0406") thread and subtract that from 0.25" (0.25" - 0.0406" for a 1/4"-16 pitch diameter of 0.2094").

Bruce





Just my preference, I like these mechanical digital micrometers.  I've got a couple 0-1" and 1"-2".


----------



## mmcmdl

Kevin T said:


> My turn to play, just picked up a 60 degree thread micrometer.


Not exactly a thread mic , just a pointed anvil mic . As stated above , the thread mics have interchangable anvils for different pitch threads . Still , these will get you close . Thread wires are also a cheap alternative .


----------



## Gaffer

I picked up a 1-ton Porta-Hoist fir $25 and a 2.5 ton pallet Jack (BT Lifter) for $150. Both are in very good condition. The hoist will attach to a large beam over the mill to lift my 12” rotary table. It’s getting too heavy for me.


----------



## woodchucker

Gaffer said:


> I picked up a 1-ton Porta-Hoist fir $25 and a 2.5 ton pallet Jack (BT Lifter) for $150. Both are in very good condition. The hoist will attach to a large beam over the mill to lift my 12” rotary table. It’s getting too heavy for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 391167


wow, you were lifting a 12" rotary? that's gotta be north of 200lbs?

btw you suck on the porta hoist... nice buy...  so was the pallet jack, but only $25 for the hoist...


----------



## 682bear

682bear said:


> The brown truck brought me a package this afternoon...
> 
> This was an ebay buy... I looked at it for a week, not sure if I wanted to take a chance on it or not, it looked a little rough...
> 
> View attachment 390892
> 
> 
> It's a 9 inch Buck set-tru...
> 
> After unpacking, inspecting, and disassembling, I'm glad I took a chance. It is in very good condition internally and works very smoothly.
> 
> View attachment 390893
> 
> 
> I bought it to put on one of my Hendeys... but it came with a backplate that fits my South Bend... decisions...
> 
> -Bear



I finished cleaning up this old rusty chuck this morning...




Evaporust is a wonderful thing...

I have it mounted on the South Bend... I chucked up a piece of 1" stock and centered it, then chucked up a piece of 2 ½" stock... it repeated within about 0.002"... not too bad...

I have a piece of 9x3" cast iron ordered to make a backplate to fit the Hendey... I considered leaving this chuck on the SB, but I bought it for the Hendey, and I have a Rohm combination chuck for the SB already.


----------



## DavidR8

682bear said:


> I finished cleaning up this old rusty chuck this morning...
> 
> View attachment 391263
> 
> 
> Evaporust is a wonderful thing...
> 
> I have it mounted on the South Bend... I chucked up a piece of 1" stock and centered it, then chucked up a piece of 2 ½" stock... it repeated within about 0.002"... not too bad...
> 
> I have a piece of 9x3" cast iron ordered to make a backplate to fit the Hendey... I considered leaving this chuck on the SB, but I bought it for the Hendey, and I have a Rohm combination chuck for the SB already.


Dang! That looks brand new!!! Good work!


----------



## Gaffer

woodchucker said:


> wow, you were lifting a 12" rotary? that's gotta be north of 200lbs?
> 
> btw you suck on the porta hoist... nice buy...  so was the pallet jack, but only $25 for the hoist...


I’ve been looking for a hoist for a while and like you said, they’re expensive. This was a steal. My Troyke is 150lbs. Doable for me but it’s getting to be too much.


----------



## Aukai

My 30 dollar iron beast, it's heavier than I thought.


----------



## extropic

@Aukai

I have tried using Evaporust in a similar manor except that, instead of a terrycloth towel, I used paper towels wetted with
Evaporust. The paper towels had an embossed pattern and that pattern was later visible on the part. I won't do that again. YMMV

I would expect the terrycloth towel to leave a pattern too. Do you have previous experience using terrycloth towels?


----------



## woodchucker

Gaffer said:


> I’ve been looking for a hoist for a while and like you said, they’re expensive. This was a steal. My Troyke is 150lbs. Doable for me but it’s getting to be too much.


years ago I was looking, I was still on here. I went to look at one for a song in Philly area. The casting was cracked. what a waste of time.. I waited and I bought a Jet for a reasonable amount.


----------



## BladesIIB

I am going to make some pallets to improve my production on my CNC mill. They will be aluminum and I will be using Mitee Bite clamps. I want to ensure the threads will hold up to the repeated use so I bought a few different size Heli Coil kits and lots of inserts for the main sizes I need. Pierson Workholding Pallet system should be here in a week or so.  Will also mount my vise to a pallet so easy on and off with no tramming.


----------



## Larry42

wachuko said:


> 5-201
> 2-202
> 1-207 for parting tool
> 1-204 for boring bar


That's a fair START!


----------



## brino

Gaffer said:


> My Troyke is 150lbs. Doable for me but it’s getting to be too much.



The work-shopinator!

Then:



and now:




-brino


----------



## mmcmdl

Yeah , but he'll be back .


----------



## Aukai

Extropic, I have been going back several times today and lightly scrubbing the faces with a white Scotch brite pad, so far I have not seen any patterns. I will probably rinse it tonight, and give it a few passes with the precision ground stones, and call it good. My thinking on this is that it is a good right angle tool, but I don't think it is in the precision tool category..??
I also don't think it will never be a good door stop like I was thinking. My little toe edge finder would not be happy finding it.


----------



## Gaffer

brino said:


> The work-shopinator!
> 
> Then:
> View attachment 391300
> 
> 
> and now:
> View attachment 391301
> 
> 
> 
> -brino


I’m strong but nothing like that. Work strong I guess.


----------



## Janderso

brino said:


> The work-shopinator!
> 
> Then:
> View attachment 391300
> 
> 
> and now:
> View attachment 391301
> 
> 
> 
> -brino


Do you think he ate his Wheaties or was there something else introduced into his diet?
”Did you get stung by a bee?” Twins with Danny Devito.


----------



## tq60

Visited local dealer and found some projects...

A Nikken LM5 live center missing the center drill cover and a Jacobs 20N chuck on looks like MT4 Taper inserted into MT5 adaptor.

All for 10 bucks.

Nothing moves so work needed.

The center has removable cap at bottom of taper that is missing so lots of crud to clean out, soaking with oil now.

They are interesting in that they have a cap like device that goes on like a bayonet that holds center drill.

Cool idea. Center in tailstock, cap on, center drill, cap off use center.

MT5 good for the L&S.

the drill chuck will fit that and maybe the SB 14.5 if we get the adaptor apart.

Need to service it.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


----------



## brino

Janderso said:


> Do you think he ate his Wheaties or was there something else introduced into his diet?
> ”Did you get stung by a bee?” Twins with Danny Devito.



Jeff,

Personally, based only on photos, I think he got stung by a radio-active bus full of steroids.
But I leave it to his house-keeper to decide.

Brian


----------



## WobblyHand

What I did buy, but haven't received yet:  AXA-4D boring bar holder.  

Aloris announced a sale around the end of November.  Ordered one via an eBay vendor on November 24th.  Waited a month and sent a message to eBay that I hadn't received the part.  eBay cancelled my order - which was NOT what I wanted.  Was an attractive price too 

So ordered again from a _different_ seller on Dec. 24th.  Claimed I have it by Dec 30th.  Did not happen.  Contacted seller on 31 Dec and said Aloris would ship it to me on 4 January.  On 6 January I see a notification from eBay that my part shipped on Jan 5th.  eBay shows a UPS tracking number, and a delivery date of December 2, 2021!  I am thinking that eBay has just invented a time machine - having delivered the part 22 days before I had ordered it from the second seller.  Send seller a message via eBay that there is a problem and would they clarify things for me.  Two days go by and no response.  Fortunately eBay listed a contact number direct to the seller (this is unusual!) so I called yesterday.  Seller agreed this was indeed unusual, re: the time machine.  They called Aloris and confirmed it had _not been shipped_.  I asked the seller to update the eBay status to correctly report reality, ie product not shipped.  They did update eBay, I am glad to report.  Was concerned that eBay would do something dumb again...  Seller reported to me they were having all sorts of issues with suppliers, not just Aloris.  My seller said, (and I really am not holding my breath here,) that Aloris would ship by the end of next week.  Believe it when I see it.  For the record, the second seller was All Industrial Tools.  They have been very helpful and would recommend them.  The agent I spoke with said he'd call me back within 15 minutes - and he really did.  That's a rarity these days.

Anyone else have troubles getting stuff from Aloris?  Wondering if they got swamped due to their announced sale (20% off). Or it is just the reality these days due to the ongoing pandemic disruption?


----------



## Kevin T

WobblyHand said:


> Anyone else have troubles getting stuff from Aloris?  Wondering if they got swamped due to their announced sale (20% off). Or it is just the reality these days due to the ongoing pandemic disruption?


When I learned that Amazon sells some Aloris stuff and they ship free I started getting some things from them to save the heavy shiping costs from Aloris direect. I needed a new Aloris P-6 blade and ordered it around end of Nov. At the time of order it said it was not in stock but they would ship me one when it becomes available so I hit OK anyways since the price. I just got it yesterday.


----------



## WobblyHand

Kevin T said:


> When I learned that Amazon sells some Aloris stuff and they ship free I started getting some things from them to save the heavy shiping costs from Aloris direect. I needed a new Aloris P-6 blade and ordered it around end of Nov. At the time of order it said it was not in stock but they would ship me one when it becomes available so I hit OK anyways since the price. I just got it yesterday.


Technically, Amazon doesn't ship for free, they just markup the product cost.  They do it all the time.  As an example look up WD40 1 gallon.  Cheapest is $31.97 with free shipping.  Ace Hardware has it in their store for $26.99.  The way I figure is they are charging $4.98 for shipping.  That being said, sometimes Amazon does have good deals.  I have learned to check them for price, but then to look around for a better deal.  Often Amazon is not the best price.  They used to offer a better value.


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> Technically, Amazon doesn't ship for free, they just markup the product cost.  They do it all the time.  As an example look up WD40 1 gallon.  Cheapest is $31.97 with free shipping.  Ace Hardware has it in their store for $26.99.  The way I figure is they are charging $4.98 for shipping.  That being said, sometimes Amazon does have good deals.  I have learned to check them for price, but then to look around for a better deal.  Often Amazon is not the best price.  They used to offer a better value.


yep, they USED to.
Unfortunately Amazon has killed a lot of local stores / suppliers.
Their model was monopolize the world, become the biggest.. then F everyone.
2 day shipping.. non-existent.  I am averaging 4-5 .. But have waited longer for items they claim are IN STOCK.
are they ever going back to 2 day... NO.. there's no secret about it.

What I don't get, is why Kool Mist is cheaper through Amazon (All Industrial) than through All Industrial direct.  makes no sense. All Industrial gives $$$ to Amazon, so it should be more $$ than direct..


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> 2 day shipping.. non-existent. I am averaging 4-5 .. But have waited longer for items they claim are IN STOCK.
> are they ever going back to 2 day... NO.. there's no secret about it.


That's my beef with them.  I didn't mind paying for Prime to get the faster shipping - that was value added.  But now, they have re-negged on that value proposition.  Instead they offer (worthless to me) other perks of Prime.  No longer worth it to me.  Prime does not offer faster shipping anymore.  I can get stuff from eBay and other sources for less, most of the time, and quicker than from Amazon.  Not going to renew Prime this year as the value has declined well below their price for the service.  They have lost their way...


----------



## Kevin T

I hear you guys on the ever changing Amazon stuff but the blade I got was going to be 85 bucks from Aloris or 62 from AMZN. No brainer. I have unique shipping challenges because of the islands. USPS has great solutions for me in the form of tax payer subsidized "Flat Rate" options. Most companies that end up growing to a certain size, like McMaster Carr, MSC, Grainger, etc.. end up "partnering" with logistics solution providers like UPS/FedEx, etc. These guys put something on a plane for me in the supply chain and I get to pay more with fewer shipping options. They make it easier for the seller though which is fine but relegates me to places like eBay where a small outfit can get to the post office to ship in a Flat Rate box.


----------



## WobblyHand

Kevin T said:


> I hear you guys on the ever changing Amazon stuff but the blade I got was going to be 85 bucks from Aloris or 62 from AMZN. No brainer. I have unique shipping challenges because of the islands. USPS has great solutions for me in the form of tax payer subsidized "Flat Rate" options. Most companies that end up growing to a certain size, like McMaster Carr, MSC, Grainger, etc.. end up "partnering" with logistics solution providers like UPS/FedEx, etc. These guys put something on a plane for me in the supply chain and I get to pay more with fewer shipping options. The make it easier for the seller though which is fine but relegates me to placs like eBay where a small outfit can get to the post office to ship in a Flat Rate box.


I'd do the same thing, given your circumstances.


----------



## slodat

BladesIIB said:


> I am going to make some pallets to improve my production on my CNC mill. They will be aluminum and I will be using Mitee Bite clamps. I want to ensure the threads will hold up to the repeated use so I bought a few different size Heli Coil kits and lots of inserts for the main sizes I need. Pierson Workholding Pallet system should be here in a week or so.  Will also mount my vise to a pallet so easy on and off with no tramming.


Which Pierson pallet system did you go with?

I’ve had a PPS with vacuum pallet in a shopping cart for a while..


----------



## slodat

Two Orange dual station vises, a set of Anderson Manufacturing Serra Jaws, and a Edge Technologies tool height setter. All for the new (to me) Haas TM1.


----------



## BladesIIB

slodat said:


> Which Pierson pallet system did you go with?
> 
> I’ve had a PPS with vacuum pallet in a shopping cart for a while..


I ordered the Pro Pallet System and a few extra pallets. I will mount my vise to one.  Make a couple of custom pallets with Mitee Bite clamps and also plan to make one pallet with locator pins to mount ½" plates on top of.  the half inch plates will reduce cost over additional pallets and are for operations that can be off .001" or so.  Also, I need to bolt through the bottom with small 2/56 screws and counterboring through a 1.5" pallet for that would be extra work.  It all sounds good in my head and I have started the work in Fusion. I will video and post my journey with it when they come in.  I like the vacuum pallet as well and can add that at some point in the future since it will mount on the PPS base I will have.  I was going to build my own base but finally just bi the bullet and got theirs.


----------



## Nogoingback

WobblyHand said:


> What I did buy, but haven't received yet:  AXA-4D boring bar holder.
> 
> Aloris announced a sale around the end of November.  Ordered one via an eBay vendor on November 24th.  Waited a month and sent a message to eBay that I hadn't received the part.  eBay cancelled my order - which was NOT what I wanted.  Was an attractive price too
> 
> So ordered again from a _different_ seller on Dec. 24th.  Claimed I have it by Dec 30th.  Did not happen.  Contacted seller on 31 Dec and said Aloris would ship it to me on 4 January.  On 6 January I see a notification from eBay that my part shipped on Jan 5th.  eBay shows a UPS tracking number, and a delivery date of December 2, 2021!  I am thinking that eBay has just invented a time machine - having delivered the part 22 days before I had ordered it from the second seller.  Send seller a message via eBay that there is a problem and would they clarify things for me.  Two days go by and no response.  Fortunately eBay listed a contact number direct to the seller (this is unusual!) so I called yesterday.  Seller agreed this was indeed unusual, re: the time machine.  They called Aloris and confirmed it had _not been shipped_.  I asked the seller to update the eBay status to correctly report reality, ie product not shipped.  They did update eBay, I am glad to report.  Was concerned that eBay would do something dumb again...  Seller reported to me they were having all sorts of issues with suppliers, not just Aloris.  My seller said, (and I really am not holding my breath here,) that Aloris would ship by the end of next week.  Believe it when I see it.  For the record, the second seller was All Industrial Tools.  They have been very helpful and would recommend them.  The agent I spoke with said he'd call me back within 15 minutes - and he really did.  That's a rarity these days.
> 
> Anyone else have troubles getting stuff from Aloris?  Wondering if they got swamped due to their announced sale (20% off). Or it is just the reality these days due to the ongoing pandemic disruption?


Amazon claims they can ship in 1-2 days:




__





						Aloris Tool AXA-4D Boring Bar Holder: Indexable Insert Holders: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
					

Aloris Tool AXA-4D Boring Bar Holder: Indexable Insert Holders: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



					www.amazon.com


----------



## Aukai

This is the before, and after from my other post on my beast right angle tool, you can see a couple of the high spots the stone took care of.


----------



## WobblyHand

Nogoingback said:


> Amazon claims they can ship in 1-2 days:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aloris Tool AXA-4D Boring Bar Holder: Indexable Insert Holders: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
> 
> 
> Aloris Tool AXA-4D Boring Bar Holder: Indexable Insert Holders: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


Thanks for the link.  It is appreciated.  I don't believe that shipping time.  What that webpage says, it is _available to ship in 1-2 days_.  _This is BS doublespeak._  "Available to ship" actually means nothing.  The webpage also says it wouldn't be delivered until Friday January 14.  Not coincidentally, that was the same time frame that my other sellers promised.  Sorry to be so crabby sounding, but I'm no longer an Amazon cheerleader.  Used to love their service, but the service is no longer what it was.

All that aside, the problem actually is with Aloris.  They are backlogged.  Two major tool suppliers couldn't get their orders taken care of.  First one was Ajax Tools, the second was All Industrial.  I don't blame either seller.  Both were going to have Aloris drop ship to me, neither had the part in stock.  Bet the same with Amazon.  Oh, and I got a better price from All Industrial than what Amazon is offering.


----------



## Brento

Aukai said:


> This is the before, and after from my other post on my beast right angle tool, you can see a couple of the high spots the stone took care of.


What did you end up doing?


----------



## WobblyHand

Aukai said:


> This is the before, and after from my other post on my beast right angle tool, you can see a couple of the high spots the stone took care of.


That came out very well.


----------



## Inferno

I didn't buy anything all that exciting, especially compared to a lot of things in this thread but I did buy this.









						Bench Clamp Vise High Precision Clamping Vise 4 Inch Jaw Width CNC Vise Fixed Jaw  | VEVOR US
					

Discover Bench Clamp Vise High Precision Clamping Vise 4 Inch Jaw Width CNC Vise Fixed Jaw, Durable Material and Hardened Clamping Jaw at lowest price, 2days delivery, 30days returns.




					www.vevor.com
				




Which is the little brother to the 6" one I bought a week or so ago. The 6" will come in handy once in a while but the 4" is better suited for my regular needs and at half the weight, it's easier to put on and off the table.

Also, a week ago I finally broke down and bought a set of 123 blocks. They're generic but better than what I've been using.


----------



## Aukai

Brento, I ended up rotating the piece to submerge the important planes. The toweled wet surfaces did not respond as well the ones submerged. It took longer, but the important surfaces were able to be soaked.


----------



## Brento

Do you evaporust it. Cool bud. It looks good. Nice and shiny now.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Depth Mic is a 440B.. only has the one inch stem, will need to find some others for it.. 
the vice will need some cleaning up..


----------



## Bi11Hudson

One of those things I really don't need, I mean what's a tilt vise and Jo blocks for if not setting angles. But it was cheap because nobody wanted to pay for what amounts to "scrap" metal in todays buyer's market. No collectible value, right? Anyway, I'll clean them up and wrap in vapor paper and stash them away. Might be useful one day. . .


.


----------



## Suzuki4evr

Bi11Hudson said:


> One of those things I really don't need, I mean what's a tilt vise and Jo blocks for if not setting angles. But it was cheap because nobody wanted to pay for what amounts to "scrap" metal in todays buyer's market. No collectible value, right? Anyway, I'll clean them up and wrap in vapor paper and stash them away. Might be useful one day. . .
> View attachment 391632
> 
> .


I would like a pile of "scrap" like you have there.


----------



## Suzuki4evr

slodat said:


> Two Orange dual station vises, a set of Anderson Manufacturing Serra Jaws, and a Edge Technologies tool height setter. All for the new (to me) Haas TM1.
> 
> View attachment 391393
> View attachment 391394



 
It's awesome. Enjoy.


----------



## GreatOldOne

Two brown and sharpe surface gauges, boxed with three DTIs. £30 for 730 & 2 clocks, £25 for the other. I didn’t need both (hell I don’t really need either, but that’s not what this thread is about - right?), but for the price it seemed silly not to.


----------



## wachuko

Well... I got grounded again by the wife and my credit card taken away... but was able to ordered almost everything I needed to get the machines back in working order... Well, it worked fine as it was, just needed the VFD to power it... but got carried away with a few more things that I wanted to make it look nice:


QTYPart NumberName1898-016-001Saddle Clamp Lever Knob1100-019-061Saddle Clamp Lever Rod1101-212-305Quill Feed Handwheel1100-020-301Ball Plunger1100-003-178Model/Serial Plate8880-110-178#4 5/16 Drive Screw1880-005-003#10-32 x 1/4 SHCS1100-003-000Cartridge Bearing Lock Nut4880-000-0481/4-20 x 3/4 SHCS1M-0980-140 (QNMTP27610)Servo 140 Z Axis Knee Power Feed for Wells Index 84722974Servo bottom gear cover1D3086C-KITBijur One-Shot Lube Tank1B9230CBijur Lubrication Pump Cap4Leveling Pads

Was not able to sneak in a Maxi Torque Rite Air Power Draw Bar... that one will have to wait until all privileges are restored .  I will use a step to reach the drawbar, lol...

And for the lathe... ordered a new 1/8-5/8 Ultra Precision Keyless Drill Chuck MT3 from Precision Matthews...


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> Well... I got grounded again by the wife and my credit card taken away... but was able to ordered almost everything I needed to get the machines back in working order... Well, it worked fine as it was, just needed the VFD to power it... but got carried away with a few more things that I wanted to make it look nice:
> 
> 
> QTYPart NumberName1898-016-001Saddle Clamp Lever Knob1100-019-061Saddle Clamp Lever Rod1101-212-305Quill Feed Handwheel1100-020-301Ball Plunger1100-003-178Model/Serial Plate8880-110-178#4 5/16 Drive Screw1880-005-003#10-32 x 1/4 SHCS1100-003-000Cartridge Bearing Lock Nut4880-000-0481/4-20 x 3/4 SHCS1M-0980-140 (QNMTP27610)Servo 140 Z Axis Knee Power Feed for Wells Index 84722974Servo bottom gear cover1D3086C-KITBijur One-Shot Lube Tank1B9230CBijur Lubrication Pump Cap4Leveling Pads
> 
> Was not able to sneak in a Maxi Torque Rite Air Power Draw Bar... that one will have to wait until all privileges are restored .  I will use a step to reach the drawbar, lol...
> 
> And for the lathe... ordered a new 1/8-5/8 Ultra Precision Keyless Drill Chuck MT3 from Precision Matthews...


how will you have to work it off?


----------



## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> how will you have to work it off?
> 
> View attachment 391692


Spot on! Exactly like that!!


----------



## NCjeeper

Started gathering tooling for my new large lathe. 2 3/16 MT5 drill.


----------



## woodchucker

NCjeeper said:


> Started gathering tooling for my new large lathe. 2 3/16 MT5 drill.
> 
> View attachment 391701


Damn, big drill...   Got plans for that, or just going to make big curls?


----------



## NCjeeper

woodchucker said:


> Damn, big drill...   Got plans for that, or just going to make big curls?


No specific plans yet. Just searching for deals on this big stuff since it is not cheap.


----------



## tq60

We worked on our finds, the Nikken live center and the jacobs chuck.

Buffed the crud from the chuck, found a key not quite big enough but works, it was stuck from sitting, as soon as it moved it turned by hand.

Wire wheel cleaned it up nicely, good to go.

The center is more interesting.

It was a set of slots for a cap to go on to hold a center drill. No cap, will need to find one.

Put it in the vise, point down and it is solid.

Has a missing cover, can see inside so let oil soak overnight, it moves a couple degrees.

Solvent and blowing out no change.

Not sure how it goes together, and it was only 2 bucks so Experiment.

Can see a shaft like thing with a center in the end.

A center punch into the center, hold by hand the taper with point down, couple light taps with small hammer and it moves.

First the part with notches comes off.

Next the center shaft slides out.

Some crude and rust but intact.

It is made to service, good design sort of.

Cleaned most, then soaked in lye, yes, lye...it got all of the crud off and left clean metal.

A bit of stoning to center then the rollers on the bearing.

The main bearing stays in the taper part and center is inner bearing race.

There are roller bearings in black of the center for better leverage, great design.

At first it turned rough.

Stoed the center, better.

Stoned the rollers much better.

Used small knife to bind a roller then use that to scrape the outer race that we cannot get to.

After this, without any oil it turns real smooth with occasional feel of minor drag.

Packed it with Grease and good, real smooth.

For our hobby shop it will be fine.

The open end needs a plug, about 3/4 inch, metric, what size?

Just happen to have hub from international Fire truck that we will use for something else, looks close, wheel stud threads right in, so getting a bolt at the supply house for that.

Just need to find the cap...

LM5 - L5



Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


----------



## Kevin T

tq60 said:


> The open end needs a plug, about 3/4 inch, metric, what size?



Are you talking the end that goes into your tailstock? I had a couple live centers that never auto ejected because the overall lengths of them were too short so I made some custom end plugs for them. Much nicer to use.


----------



## woodchucker

Kevin T said:


> Are you talking the end that goes into your tailstock? I had a couple live centers that never auto ejected because the overall lengths of them were too short so I made some custom end plugs for them. Much nicer to use.
> 
> 
> View attachment 391745
> 
> 
> View attachment 391747


wow, out of brass. Brass is so expensive right now. *Looks great*, I made mine out of mild steel.  They don't look that nice.


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> wow, out of brass. Brass is so expensive right now. *Looks great*, I made mine out of mild steel.  They don't look that nice.


I know, right!?  Wow!


----------



## Kevin T

woodchucker said:


> wow, out of brass. Brass is so expensive right now. *Looks great*, I made mine out of mild steel.  They don't look that nice.


I have an old stash of brass that I've had for decades so I haven't shopped for any recently but you guys are saying that even small bits are cost prohibitive?

EDIT: Ouch, just checked!


----------



## wachuko

Kevin T said:


> I have an old stash of brass that I've had for decades so I haven't shopped for any recently but you guys are saying that even small bits are cost prohibitive?
> 
> EDIT: Ouch, just checked!


Yup!


----------



## woodchucker

Kevin T said:


> I have an old stash of brass that I've had for decades so I haven't shopped for any recently but you guys are saying that even small bits are cost prohibitive?


everything brass is $$$$. I have a stash I would love to melt down and get some raw material out of. But it is cheaper to buy until I build a foundry furnace, if I ever do get around to it.

edit: I am building a steady rest. And am building steel (mild steel) fingers, and putting brass tips on. My biggest stash of brass is undersized. So I will wind up using a way oversized round .. it hurts in the wallet.


----------



## Steve-F

I feel pretty lucky, there are about a dozen 55# blocks of it here from an old project that I get to whittle from:<)


----------



## Brento

Kevin T said:


> Are you talking the end that goes into your tailstock? I had a couple live centers that never auto ejected because the overall lengths of them were too short so I made some custom end plugs for them. Much nicer to use.
> 
> 
> View attachment 391745
> 
> 
> View attachment 391747


I actually beed to make one of those for an ER collet chuck. I bout the chuck for my mill but it ended up being the Metric thread. I needed the 3/8.


----------



## Winegrower

I got a set of expanding mandrels covering about a half inch to an inch.    They are very well made.   What I like about this style is that the area under the work being held all expands, rather than just pressing the workpiece onto a simple taper.   Seems like this will keep the work aligned better, and make it easier to position on the mandrel.   The cost seemed good, I recall maybe $80.   Edit:   I mean $100.


----------



## tq60

Kevin T said:


> Are you talking the end that goes into your tailstock? I had a couple live centers that never auto ejected because the overall lengths of them were too short so I made some custom end plugs for them. Much nicer to use.
> 
> 
> View attachment 391745
> 
> 
> View attachment 391747


These look nice!

Part is made in Japan. Metric thread and cannot do Metric on our lathes.

Local distributor supplies everyone in hardware should have an assortment of right size bolts, will modify one to fit as a plug for the tailstock end.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


----------



## Kevin T

Winegrower said:


> I got a set of expanding mandrels covering about a half inch to an inch.    They are very well made.   What I like about this style is that the area under the work being held all expands, rather than just pressing the workpiece onto a simple taper.   Seems like this will keep the work aligned better, and make it easier to position on the mandrel.   The cost seemed good, I recall maybe $80.   Edit:   I mean $100.
> 
> View attachment 391786



Those are a nice item. I could have these recently when I converted my lathe compound graduated dial over to a large dial. The replacement part I got needed some fine passes to clean up the faces but it wasn't easy to hold. I cut a slight taper on some stock, press fit it and it worked but just barely. Some precision would have been very welcome because I didn't want to remove the graduations. It was delicate work, would have been easier with these.


----------



## Kevin T

tq60 said:


> These look nice!
> 
> Part is made in Japan. Metric thread and cannot do Metric on our lathes.
> 
> Local distributor supplies everyone in hardware should have an assortment of right size bolts, will modify one to fit as a plug for the tailstock end.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


HA! I haven't needed a metric thread.....yet! That is going to really bother me if I need one and can't do it on my lathe!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Brento said:


> I will be looking to see what goodies you list


I've slowly started working through it. This lot hasn't even made a dent   
mattthemuppet's eBay shoppe


----------



## Brento

That helicoil kit is looking nice.


----------



## Brento

I bought myself some engraving fonts for the engraver kit in picking up this weekend. They are New Hermes 35-302.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Brento said:


> That helicoil kit is looking nice.


I've got a whole bunch of extra inserts I'd be happy to throw in if you get it!

I also have a bunch of solid carbide engravers, somewhere...


----------



## Brento

Ill have to keep an eye in it for sure. Helicoils are a machinist best friend sometimes lol


----------



## Brento

My wife is not going to be happy once she sees i bought them. But she wants to learn how to engrave so.


----------



## Brento

I also ordered the Steady Rest kit from Hemingway Kits should have plenty of projects to work on once it get a little warmer.


----------



## JRaut

NCjeeper said:


> Started gathering tooling for my new large lathe. 2 3/16 MT5 drill.
> 
> View attachment 391701





NCjeeper said:


> No specific plans yet. Just searching for deals on this big stuff since it is not cheap.




I've got some pretty large MT drill bits kicking around my shop (up to, I dunno, 1-3/4" or so).

WAYYYY too big for me.

Pick a reasonable price and they're all yours. Shoot me a PM if you're interested, I can snap a few photos for ya.


----------



## DavidR8

Brento said:


> I also ordered the Steady Rest kit from Hemingway Kits should have plenty of projects to work on once it get a little warmer.


Please let us know how you make out with that kit... I keep looking at them for my 10K.


----------



## Janderso

Bi11Hudson said:


> One of those things I really don't need, I mean what's a tilt vise and Jo blocks for if not setting angles. But it was cheap because nobody wanted to pay for what amounts to "scrap" metal in todays buyer's market. No collectible value, right? Anyway, I'll clean them up and wrap in vapor paper and stash them away. Might be useful one day. . .
> View attachment 391632
> 
> .


Some of these will help make for a quick set up.


----------



## Brento

DavidR8 said:


> Please let us know how you make out with that kit... I keep looking at them for my 10K.


Someone on a facebook group told me about it and said it was pretty decent. Idr what the fingers were but i think im gonna make the tips out of brass also.


----------



## Janderso

Winegrower said:


> I got a set of expanding mandrels covering about a half inch to an inch.    They are very well made.   What I like about this style is that the area under the work being held all expands, rather than just pressing the workpiece onto a simple taper.   Seems like this will keep the work aligned better, and make it easier to position on the mandrel.   The cost seemed good, I recall maybe $80.   Edit:   I mean $100.
> 
> View attachment 391786


How do you drive those?
I have a few, I’ve decided i need to make an adapter


----------



## Winegrower

Janderso said:


> How do you drive those?


Expanding mandrels are just like any mandrel, it seems to me.   There is a flat on one end for a lathe dog for turning between centers, and I suppose you could chuck one end up and center the other with the tailstock.

But, I have yet to actually use these.


----------



## tq60

Success...

So we were googling the large thread bolt and images for oil drain plugs pop up.

DUH...!

We need a plug and not a bolt, and many cars likely to have oil plug that size.


A Napa distribution store is near our workplace so we go in, drop the center on the counter and ask for oil plug that size.

Their computer sorts by size so a few minutes and $17.00 later we have the perfect item, even comes with rubber seal.













Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


----------



## Aukai

Jacobs 18N, I don't really need it, but I thought it was a good deal, 120 bucks free shipping. It rolls super smooth, and the jaws are very nice, it has an MT3 mounted, and a MT4 included.


----------



## woodchucker

Aukai said:


> Jacobs 18N, I don't really need it, but I thought it was a good deal, 120 bucks free shipping. It rolls super smooth, and the jaws are very nice, it has an MT3 mounted, and a MT4 included.


I am liking my jacobs a  lot more these days. I have a keyless, but in my drill press it takes so many turns to open it.  its also very long by comparison.  enjoy.  I think mine is a 14..  I hate to tell you what I paid... it'd make your head spin off.


----------



## davidcarmichael

Bought a Vertex 3701-2625 1/8-5/8 Inch MT3 Integrated Keyless Drill Chuck from Amazon. Tested it in my mill with an MT3 to R8 adapter. I couldn't see any runout (and I really tried). What a great chuck (and adapter).


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

Now I've done it,.... Not really something I needed to come up right now, but it's something I couldnt pass up haha. Found a nice original j&j Taylor bankers safe.
Just gotta ship it now!



Rare to find them in decent shape like this~ I only know of two with the original paint left.


----------



## NCjeeper

^^^
Odd that all the hardware is exposed. Seems like you could just unbolt everything and open the door.


----------



## woodchucker

NCjeeper said:


> ^^^
> Odd that all the hardware is exposed. Seems like you could just unbolt everything and open the door.


I'm sure there are big bolts inside the door. I think those are only hinge related. Including the locking bar in the middle horizontally. I think that's only to take the strain off pulling the bolts in.


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

NCjeeper said:


> ^^^
> Odd that all the hardware is exposed. Seems like you could just unbolt everything and open the door.


All the locking bolts are on the inside, all the exterior is a hinge/ compression mechanism~


----------



## brino

Zyox Jägergeist said:


> Just gotta ship it now!



That cannot be cheap!

I guess you have some more carbide inserts to store?  

Brian


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

brino said:


> That cannot be cheap!
> 
> I guess you have some more carbide inserts to store?
> 
> Brian


One for inserts, other for endmills? 
We might drive down to pick it up, probably looking at 300-700$ 
Cheap end is us getting it, high end is a shipper, but I don't really trust shippers for these...

Art~


----------



## Suzuki4evr

Zyox Jägergeist said:


> Now I've done it,.... Not really something I needed to come up right now, but it's something I couldnt pass up haha. Found a nice original j&j Taylor bankers safe.
> Just gotta ship it now!
> View attachment 392230
> View attachment 392231
> 
> Rare to find them in decent shape like this~ I only know of two with the original paint left.


Hope you can fill it up with a whole lot of $$$$$$


----------



## matthewsx

JRaut said:


> I got two new machines delivered today!!
> 
> One is a Rose Engine and the other is a Straight Line Engine (pardon the messy garage).
> 
> Both were made by F. A. Hall in Providence, RI. No dates or anything, but some internet sleuthing and some of the serials numbers I've preliminarily found on the machines suggest they were made in about 1905.
> 
> They're sort of esoteric machines, nearly lost to time. They almost never come up for sale, so I jumped at the opportunity. Didn't get 'you suck' pricing, but I got a decent deal. I bought them in Massachusetts and had them crated up and shipped to me in Minneapolis. That wasn't cheap.
> 
> Anyway, I've been interested in these machines for a number of years now. They're primarily used to decorate / guilloche watch dials, and somewhat in clockmaking. I, quite frankly, haven't all that much interest in making watch dials. But I find the machines themselves super interesting.
> 
> So I suspect what I'll end up doing with them is:
> (1) strip them down and clean them up really well,
> (2) repair / replace broken parts and pieces,
> (3) paint and finish them off,
> (4) play around with them for a while, and
> (5) eventually sell them off to someone who plans on using them.
> 
> This'll no doubt take a good few years; maybe half a decade.
> 
> Maybe I'll make a separate restoration thread for them.
> 
> Anyone have a Rose Engine or Straight Line Engine? A quick search on H-M.com pegged a few folks with some interest.
> 
> View attachment 357140
> 
> 
> View attachment 357139
> 
> 
> View attachment 357138
> View attachment 357137


Did you ever make progress with these machines. I’m fascinated with the idea of building my own and wonder if there is enough interest to put a group together here.

John


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

Suzuki4evr said:


> Hope you can fill it up with a whole lot of $$$$$$


Definitely not right now haha, pretty drained after the move, but I definitely hope oneday!

Been wanting to stack silver for quite a while, these would make a good home for it!


----------



## JRaut

matthewsx said:


> Did you ever make progress with these machines. I’m fascinated with the idea of building my own and wonder if there is enough interest to put a group together here.
> 
> John



I’ve made a little progress, but not a lot. I’ll snap a picture in a little while.

I’m hoping to dig into these after I finish up my Edwards Radial 5 engine (which I’m documenting in a different thread on here).


----------



## Brento

Well today i went to Cabin Fever and saw Dave there. I picked up my toolbox from him and then my big score was a steady rest. It is for a Logan 9". But with shims on it it will fit my South Bend for 120$. Then i picked up a 1 1/4-12 tap for a job i am quoting for 20$. I told my customer and he was ecstatic so that will help me for that quote.

by any chance does someone want to buy a Hemingway SB9 steady rest kit from me? I am expecting it Wednesday and will gladly ship it to someone when i get it in.


----------



## 682bear

I was given several HF gift cards for Christmas... so I spent them this morning.

I've been waiting on my local HF to get these back in stock... and they finally did!

-Bear


----------



## GoceKU

Today i visited my local flea/ tool market. I needed a set of windscreen wipers, but i come home with few more things. First was this fire extinguisher 7$, then i found this cheap set of screw drivers 1,85$ for the set. Then i found me two sets to wipers 6$ for both sets. Last but definitely biggest thing i found as i was leaving was this gas powered rototiller 50$, it has my nemesis Tecumseh 3,5hp engine. I've dealt with the same engine on a small generator few years ago but never could get it to run smooth, this one is in much better shape. Also the build is sturdy no critical plastic components. Not a bad trip.


----------



## finsruskw

Snagged this vee block & clamp off C/L this week.
Made in Poland
Put it to, work right away boring some 1"+ holes on 2" round stock


----------



## Papa Charlie

Zyox Jägergeist said:


> Now I've done it,.... Not really something I needed to come up right now, but it's something I couldnt pass up haha. Found a nice original j&j Taylor bankers safe.
> Just gotta ship it now!
> View attachment 392230
> View attachment 392231
> 
> Rare to find them in decent shape like this~ I only know of two with the original paint left.


Interesting it appears to have two tumblers instead of just one. Love the ornate work of it.


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

Papa Charlie said:


> Interesting it appears to have two tumblers instead of just one. Love the ornate work of it.


Aye, two combinations on the front door, another two on each rear door  
They started loosing all the ornate features during the great depression


The ornateness and build strength is why I enjoy them so much, you cant buy safes like these new anymore.


----------



## woodchucker

Zyox Jägergeist said:


> Aye, two combinations on the front door, another two on each rear door
> They started loosing all the ornate features during the great depression
> View attachment 392470
> 
> The ornateness and build strength is why I enjoy them so much, you cant buy safes like these new anymore.


I know what you mean, my bank has a big walk in that must be over 100 years old, it's ornate, beautiful and HUGE, it's over 24 inches thick, so beautiful, and the glass on the inside lets you see all the gears, and bars. They are also ornate on the inside.  I wish I could get a pic, but I doubt I'd be allowed.


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

woodchucker said:


> I know what you mean, my bank has a big walk in that must be over 100 years old, it's ornate, beautiful and HUGE, it's over 24 inches thick, so beautiful, and the glass on the inside lets you see all the gears, and bars. They are also ornate on the inside.  I wish I could get a pic, but I doubt I'd be allowed.


Oh that's a treat, if you ever get a pic send it my way! Allot of the companies that made those are not really around anymore~
Hmmmm, I have something related you might enjoy to read.


They still survive to this day~


----------



## Navy Chief

Zyox Jägergeist said:


> Oh that's a treat, if you ever get a pic send it my way! Allot of the companies that made those are not really around anymore~
> Hmmmm, I have something related you might enjoy to read.
> View attachment 392474
> 
> They still survive to this day~


That's a whole new level of "bomb proof"....

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## Aukai

I saw these chamfer/countersinks, and in the picture seem to be in very good condition. There were no bids, and I got them for 40.00. Has anyone used this type?


----------



## GoceKU

i have the smallest one, on some diameter they work just like any other countersink bit on smaller and larger they don't cut at all.


----------



## extropic

Aukai said:


> I saw these chamfer/countersinks, and in the picture seem to be in very good condition. There were no bids, and I got them for 40.00. Has anyone used this type?
> View attachment 392475



I've never seen that type before Mike. Are the cutting edges carbide or HSS? Also, please put one in a spindle and report back if the cone is concentric or eccentric (how much?) with the shank.

My guess is the cone is concentric and the trick is to project the cutting edge only a few thousands proud of the conical surface. Besides the setscrew for locking the "insert", is there a setscrew at the end for adjusting the insert projection?

Please report back your review on how the design performs.


----------



## Aukai

Before I bid I looked them up, and they state carbide for the cutter, I'm not sure on the projection.


----------



## extropic

Aukai said:


> Before I bid I looked them up, and they state carbide for the cutter, I'm not sure on the projection.



I'd like to look them up. Is there a brand name?


----------



## Aukai

APT 548-49
APT 548-59
APT 548-79


----------



## 682bear

682bear said:


> View attachment 392286
> 
> 
> I was given several HF gift cards for Christmas... so I spent them this morning.
> 
> I've been waiting on my local HF to get these back in stock... and they finally did!
> 
> -Bear



I assembled the shop press today...




I'll need to put some 'feet' on it... it tends to rock a little. Either the bottom pieces of angle aren't straight or the floor isn't flat... my bet would be on the floor not being flat, there is not many flat places in this floor...

Anybody want to guess whether the arbor plates are steel or cast iron? I think they are steel, but not sure. I may set one up on the mill and see what kind of chips I get off an edge. Either way, I will most likely order a set of the Swag offroad plates or make a set from a known alloy.

-Bear


----------



## Aukai

Drill a dimple in the center Dust cast, chip steel?


----------



## 682bear

I'd say it's steel... not cast...




Very likely the cheapest steel available...

-Bear


----------



## Winegrower

Today I bought David Best's book on inserts.   Looking forward to learning what I don't know.


----------



## jwmay

I don't usually like these all black drill bits, but I couldn't resist the sale price.


----------



## woodchucker

jwmay said:


> I don't usually like these all black drill bits, but I couldn't resist the sale price.


what's wrong with black oxide? They drill.


----------



## jwmay

woodchucker said:


> what's wrong with black oxide? They drill.


Could be where the ones I have experience with come from. I'm not sure.


----------



## devils4ever

OK, I finally decided to get the HF 4X6 band saw since they gave me a 20% off coupon. This should help immensely with cutting rough stock compared to my Porta-Band on stand!

Getting the thing into my basement by myself was no fun, but I managed. Assembling the thing was interesting since the instructions don't really mention everything that needs to be assembled. I figured it out on my own and looking at the extra parts.

In any case, I used my chain hoist to lift the band saw up while putting the stand under it.

I haven't cut anything with it yet, but I plan to shortly. I understand the blade isn't the best, but I'll see. I did turn it on and it seems quiet compared to my Porta-Band.

Safely in my basement.



Hoisted up while trying to get the bolts to line up.



Almost done!



In its final resting place nestled between my woodworking bench and miter saw.


----------



## AmericanMachinist

devils4ever said:


> I haven't cut anything with it yet, but I plan to shortly. I understand the blade isn't the best, but I'll see. I did turn it on and it seems quiet compared to my Porta-Band.


I think Zoro has a good price on USA Made Morse brand 64-1/2" blades.   I haven't tried them yet, but I assume being Morse that they are good.

Also keep an eye on the saw to make sure it doesn't leak oil from the gear case.


----------



## Aukai

I didn't know that you needed to break in a bandsaw blade when I first got mine, so I'm just mentioning it here.


----------



## Navy Chief

Aukai said:


> I didn't know that you needed to break in a bandsaw blade when I first got mine, so I'm just mentioning it here.


Break in procedure and explanation of the how and why is here for anybody curious:




__





						Why and how to break-in bandsaw blades
					

Article from The L.S. Starrett Co. In today’s competitive environment, everyone is on the lookout for ways make their business operations more profitable. Sometimes, simply cutting costs can seem like an attractive way to reach this goal. However, simply reducing the cost of equipment or a...




					www.ctemag.com
				




Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## devils4ever

First cuts with my new band saw using the stock blade. First, I did a few test cuts in a piece of scrap aluminum bar about 3/4" square. I was able get it pretty square in both directions by adjusting the fence and the guides.

Then, I went for it and cut a piece of 3-1/8" 6061 aluminum. It took 5 or 10 minutes, but I'm happy with the results.


----------



## woodchucker

devils4ever said:


> First cuts with my new band saw using the stock blade. First, I did a few test cuts in a piece of scrap aluminum bar about 3/4" square. I was able get it pretty square in both directions by adjusting the fence and the guides.
> 
> Then, I went for it and cut a piece of 3-1/8" 6061 aluminum. It took 5 or 10 minutes, but I'm happy with the results.
> 
> View attachment 392669
> 
> 
> View attachment 392670


BTW, they haven't been doing 20% off over $10 so where'd you get the coupon?
Gonna do any upgrades?


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> BTW, they haven't been doing 20% off over $10 so where'd you get the coupon?
> Gonna do any upgrades?


I had the same question... They stopped the coupons some time back... Would be nice to get a 20% on a few things that I need... Let me check their ads...


----------



## devils4ever

wachuko said:


> I had the same question... They stopped the coupons some time back... Would be nice to get a 20% on a few things that I need... Let me check their ads...



I guess I'm special! 

No, I'm not sure myself. I've been getting those 20% off coupons for under $10, too. Then, they emailed me a coupon for 20% off one item only. I kept reading the fine print and couldn't believe it myself. My local store was out of the 4X6 band saw a week or two ago, but showed it in stock now. When I went to the store, I even asked the cashier if I could use this coupon and he examined it and said yes.

I guess patience pays off. Unfortunately, the base price has gone up quite a bit (like everything). I had the chance to buy this same saw back around Thanksgiving for 20% off when it was listed at $290. Now, it's $330. I was kicking myself for not getting it then. Live and learn.


----------



## woodchucker

devils4ever said:


> I guess I'm special!
> 
> No, I'm not sure myself. I've been getting those 20% off coupons for under $10, too. Then, they emailed me a coupon for 20% off one item only. I kept reading the fine print and couldn't believe it myself. My local store was out of the 4X6 band saw a week or two ago, but showed it in stock now. When I went to the store, I even asked the cashier if I could use this coupon and he examined it and said yes.
> 
> I guess patience pays off. Unfortunately, the base price has gone up quite a bit (like everything). I had the chance to buy this same saw back around Thanksgiving for 20% off when it was listed at $290. Now, it's $330. I was kicking myself for not getting it then. Live and learn.


well, I hate to break it to ya, but that saw was about $250 maybe 2 years ago. I kinda remember if you got a good coupon it was about $200...
I just haven't had the room.. if I did, it would be here.


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> well, I hate to break it to ya, but that saw was about $250 maybe 2 years ago. I kinda remember if you got a good coupon it was about $200...
> I just haven't had the room.. if I did, it would be here.


I just checked the price on it... wow!  I remember when it could be had for less than 200.00.... yikes... 350.00 now... I don't think so.  I should be good with the table top that I have now. Hehehehehe


----------



## Brento

My plan was to set up a string and medical pharmacy weights to maybe help with the gravity feed for cutting on my saw.


----------



## mmcmdl

Brento said:


> My plan was to set up a string and medical pharmacy weights to maybe help with the gravity feed for cutting on my saw.


Throw an air cylinder on it with flow controls . Simple and effective .


----------



## Brento

I have plans for that also.


----------



## mmcmdl

Brento said:


> I have plans for that also.


Wish I had known that .


----------



## Brento

Ive got a plan to do a hydraulic piston for it. Idk when i will get to it but


----------



## mattthemuppet2

devils4ever said:


> First cuts with my new band saw using the stock blade. First, I did a few test cuts in a piece of scrap aluminum bar about 3/4" square. I was able get it pretty square in both directions by adjusting the fence and the guides.
> 
> Then, I went for it and cut a piece of 3-1/8" 6061 aluminum. It took 5 or 10 minutes, but I'm happy with the results.


nice! Congrats, those things are useful way beyond their cost or space requirements. I couldn't imagine being without mine. For a first mod I would suggest adding some bracing to the stand. It's a flimsy pile of crap. I built an internal frame with 2x4s and made my own wheels - my used 4x6 either didn't come with wheels or they fell off on the way home.




those casters were quickly replaced with some wheels off an old vacuum cleaner 

After that there's a whole world of mods awaiting you - better jaws, adjustable spacer for holding small stock, better down feed control (on my list) and so on. I've taught myself how to braze my own blades, so I can buy bigger rolls of band for cheap and make my own.

They're amazingly useful machines


----------



## wachuko

Wanted to try one of these....




Reilang R003 MERKUR Precision Oiler with Double Pump R003-253 200ml


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> Wanted to try one of these....
> 
> View attachment 392892
> 
> 
> Reilang R003 MERKUR Precision Oiler with Double Pump R003-253 200ml


don't do it... they are addicting.  I bought one years ago at a machinists estate sale. I love it.  It's a great little oiler. If I were a pro, I would probably have more. But I like my various oilers, I like the ones that don't leak better than the ones that leak    but in the end they all leak , just to various different stages.


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> don't do it... they are addicting.  I bought one years ago at a machinists estate sale. I love it.  It's a great little oiler. If I were a pro, I would probably have more. But I like my various oilers, I like the ones that don't leak better than the ones that leak    but in the end they all leak , just to various different stages.


I have a couple of these...




And a few of the spillmaster oil cups...  still new... I have been waiting for when the lathe and mill are in their permanent location before using these...




So figured I would only order one of those Reilang just to try it out...

I have seen a few videos of oil cups made from many different things... pretty cool stuff.  So eventually I want to make mine as well... 

As I learn to use the lathe and mill, I keep feeling that using an oil cup with a brush is the way to go for me... so not going crazy with the oilers as those will only be use to oil the ways and oil ports.


----------



## Kevin T

wachuko said:


> Wanted to try one of these....
> 
> View attachment 392892
> 
> 
> Reilang R003 MERKUR Precision Oiler with Double Pump R003-253 200ml


Please report how it works out. I almost went that way when prepping out my lathe space but I wanted 5. One for each required oil and one for Oatey Dark...that got spendy quick so I punted. I embellished mine with some stamped brass medallions.


----------



## Doug Gray

Kevin T said:


> Please report how it works out. I almost went that way when prepping out my lathe space but I wanted 5. One for each required oil and one for Oatey Dark...that got spendy quick so I punted. I embellished mine with some stamped brass medallions.
> 
> View attachment 392912


The tags are a great idea,.. nothing harder to label than an oil can


----------



## wachuko

Got one of those 5/8" clamping kits for the larger mill...
Ordered a new welding helmet.  Went with the same one a fellow forum member, @MikeInOr , selected...a YesWelder EH-091XL 1/1/1/1
I want to try doing some etching... so ordered some Ferric Chloride 
Added a set of telescopic magnetic sticks... can't have enough of those...
Ordered a few slitting saw arbors from McMaster-Carr


----------



## IamNotImportant

Just received a Machinery's Handbook 26th Ed off of evilbay for 32 bucks.. opened the box and it is in brand new condition..


----------



## woodchucker

Well ladies, I bought nail polish  and a new workshop light. that one on the right shows up as pink but it's a bright orange.
now hoping to mark some tooling.

All from wally world. 
The light is 5000 lumens, and was only $4 more than the 3200 lumens, so I figured why not. Also only 45 watts, compared to the horror fright's 5000 at 60 watts.   But I am showing .44 amps on 120v , so it's a liar it's 52.8 watts. but still not bad for how bright it is.


----------



## mmcmdl

Soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ...................................................what color are your shoes ?


----------



## woodchucker

mmcmdl said:


> Soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ...................................................what color are your shoes ?


Welllllll Dave, my shoes are blue sneakers today, tomorrow will be the same, or maybe my boots...


now where did I put that matching wallet


----------



## mmcmdl

Pleaser Delight-600SK-02 - Denim Blue Canvas Neon White in Sexy Boots - $58.95
					

Pleaser Delight-600SK-02 - Denim Blue Canvas Neon White in Sexy Boots is made for Women and comes in Blue, White and is made of Canvas material. It is marked as AnkleHighs, Platforms, Sneakers. Sizes are from Womens 6 to 9 and weighs 3 lbs.




					www.beverlyheels.com


----------



## wachuko

mmcmdl said:


> Pleaser Delight-600SK-02 - Denim Blue Canvas Neon White in Sexy Boots - $58.95
> 
> 
> Pleaser Delight-600SK-02 - Denim Blue Canvas Neon White in Sexy Boots is made for Women and comes in Blue, White and is made of Canvas material. It is marked as AnkleHighs, Platforms, Sneakers. Sizes are from Womens 6 to 9 and weighs 3 lbs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.beverlyheels.com


Nice... I can solve the issue of being able to reach the drawbar.... and save the $$ on the Maxi Torque powered drawbar setup... and blue is my favorite color...


----------



## extropic

@woodchucker 

I'm curious about your tooling marking scheme. I haven't explored marking my tooling yet so I'm hoping to learn from what you do. Please post about the scheme.


----------



## wachuko

Ordered an R-8 Drawbar for Power Drawbar System directly from Wells-Index... 

Now I can order the Maxi Torque Rite...  the folks at Maxi Torque Rite could not supply a drawbar for my machine... had to get that from Wells-Index...


----------



## Brento

Got my insert tool i bought on facebook for 12$. Need to figure out the insert size now so i can pick some up. Also got in my fonts for a an engraver missing some number 1s but still a very good start. Ill have to figure out a way now to set these up so i can use them. If anyone has a table to send me some measurements for New Hermes fonts. Please message me.


----------



## Just for fun

I didn't buy it today,  but it came in today!


----------



## Just for fun

Opps.   Duplicate post.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Nothing fancy, I actually got this in about a week ago. I designed and built a bracket for a Pattern Makers Carving Vice. I use this vice for holding my rifles for cleaning and doing work. But it also has two bars that run down below the jaws, if you slip when placing the rifle you could damage something. So I designed a bracket that is padded that prevents this from happening. I needed to be able to form a 90 degree bend into the sheetmetal the bracket is made from so purchased one of these vice mounted brakes. Not anything fancy but it does a good job of forming a good tight bend and it is small enough that it can be stored in the in the pilothouse.

Here is the brake



And here is a couple of images of the bracket. Will see how many of my fellow shooters use these and are interested.


----------



## slodat

This guy arrived.




First cut tonight.



Need to do some learning and adjusting on the CAM side of things.


----------



## Papa Charlie

slodat said:


> This guy arrived.
> 
> View attachment 393380
> 
> 
> First cut tonight.
> View attachment 393381
> 
> 
> Need to do some learning and adjusting on the CAM side of things.



Nice unit. I understand that you are still setting it up and it does take a bit to get the end product, but well worth the learning curve. Be sure to start internal cuts inside the cut line and external cuts outside the cut line to prevent the initial penetration from damaging the part.

I would love to have one of those. Had a shop that use to do laser cutting of parts for me. The quality was amazing as was the price for the machine.


----------



## Alcap

I bought this off Marketplace this morning. It’s an older one seems heavy , 6000 lb . If anyone recognizes the brand there no manufacturers name , at least I did fine one yet . The boss is checking it over lol The neighbor helped me unload it . If you’re wondering why we have the garage door op it because inside is 27 degrees and 36 outside lol


----------



## FOMOGO

Nice, I've been keeping my eye out for one of those for a welding/frame building table. May end up making one. I'm betting you will get a lot of use out of it. It's nice to be able to do things at a comfortable height. Mike



Alcap said:


> I bought this off Marketplace this morning. It’s an older one seems heavy , 6000 lb .


----------



## Just for fun

That little baby is going to come in handy!


----------



## extropic

Alcap said:


> I bought this off Marketplace this morning. It’s an older one seems heavy , 6000 lb . If anyone recognizes the brand there no manufacturers name , at least I did fine one yet . The boss is checking it over lol The neighbor helped me unload it . If you’re wondering why we have the garage door op it because inside is 27 degrees and 36 outside lol



Nice piece of equipment.

Does it have positive mechanical locking features that will prevent it dropping in case of a catastrophic air system/cylinder failure?
If it does, please use them without fail (pun acceptable).
If it does not, please use it for lifting only and support the load by some other suitable means.


----------



## Alcap

Yes it has  lock but only one .. I would like to have multiple stops , it’s supposed to be warmer Tuesday if you can call a high of 36 degrees warm lol


----------



## woodchucker

Alcap said:


> Yes it has  lock but only one .. I would like to have multiple stops , it’s supposed to be warmer Tuesday if you can call a high of 36 degrees warm lol


you only need one.


----------



## Alcap

The newer mid rise ones have multiple stops , on the above ground lifts I’ve used it comes in handy working in different positions, say lowering to install tires comes to mind first . I’m sure it will be similar with this one.


----------



## 682bear

A few ebay purchases...

A Shars lathe insert holder for TPG 321/322 inserts...




2 Niagara radius cutters... ¼" radius, one right hand, one left hand...




And a Starrett 1-½" to 32" tubular ID mic set...




-Bear


----------



## woodchucker

682bear said:


> A few ebay purchases...
> 
> A Shars lathe insert holder for TPG 321/322 inserts...
> 
> View attachment 393520
> 
> 
> 2 Niagara radius cutters... ¼" radius, one right hand, one left hand...
> 
> View attachment 393522
> 
> 
> And a Starrett 1-½" to 32" tubular ID mic set...
> 
> View attachment 393524
> 
> 
> -Bear


TPG 321/322  old school.  did you have a bunch of old stock?


----------



## 682bear

woodchucker said:


> TPG 321/322  old school.  did you have a bunch of old stock?



No, the TPG inserts are just inexpensive, multipurpose inserts... I have boring bars and an indexable end mill already. 

I've used them on several different materials from aluminum to cast iron to inconel and 17-4 ph.

-Bear


----------



## dirty tools

Lucky day for me
i bought 2 new marine stereo systems (including amps) for $20
some one wanted new systems for his boat, then change his mind an bought a different system. I happen to go to the shop at the right time.
Next 
I stopped at a machine ship to ask if they had any used lathe/ milling machine tool.
he gave me 2 new cut off bits, free
he did asking for me if I new anyone Looking for large lathe bits,
 1” shanks ( no camera  so no picture)


----------



## wachuko

This came in today... found it funny that they included some gummy bears...   




Can't remember what I order the other day, but it was a tool for sure... came with a bag of M&Ms


----------



## Aukai

I have 3 now, my last one was the 300ml(? 3.25" across the bottom), I like that one the best so far. You will need to switch out the gasket if you refill a lot, I used the appropriate O ring from an assortment kit.
I like the Gummy Bears too...


----------



## Just for fun

wachuko said:


> This came in today... found it funny that they included some gummy bears...
> 
> View attachment 393591
> 
> 
> Can't remember what I order the other day, but it was a tool for sure... came with a bag of M&Ms



Just trying to keep the wife happy!  LOL


----------



## BGHansen

wachuko said:


> This came in today... found it funny that they included some gummy bears...
> 
> 
> Can't remember what I order the other day, but it was a tool for sure... came with a bag of M&Ms


Hopefully those Haribo gummy bears aren't the sugar-free kind.  Those are an internet legend for their side effect (have a book handy to read).  There was so much viral story telling about them that Haribo stopped making the sugar-free ones (according to Google).  Some of the reviews are quite humorous though I suspect there may be some cases of "not letting the truth stand in the way of a good story".

Bruce


----------



## wachuko

BGHansen said:


> Hopefully those Haribo gummy bears aren't the sugar-free kind.  Those are an internet legend for their side effect (have a book handy to read).  There was so much viral story telling about them that Haribo stopped making the sugar-free ones (according to Google).  Some of the reviews are quite humorous though I suspect there may be some cases of "not letting the truth stand in the way of a good story".
> 
> Bruce


Looks like I missed out on those 

These have 46 grams of sugar…


----------



## WobblyHand

Minor delivery today.  1/2" Sierra American saw arbor and a couple of 2" saw blades that are more in line with my mill's low speed/torque capabilities.  


Unrelated: Later in the week, expecting delivery of some cast iron.  Hope to make a diamond dresser holder out of one chunk, and a zero set back plate from the other.  Cast iron is not cheap!  Having never made a back plate, and never turning cast iron, I expect it to be an adventure. Been reading lots of posts on making back plates, so have some idea what to do, but there's a BIG difference between reading and doing! Once I get the iron, I'll start a HM thread on it.


----------



## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> Minor delivery today.  1/2" Sierra American saw arbor and a couple of 2" saw blades that are more in line with my mill's low speed/torque capabilities.
> View attachment 393671
> 
> Unrelated: Later in the week, expecting delivery of some cast iron.  Hope to make a diamond dresser holder out of one chunk, and a zero set back plate from the other.  Cast iron is not cheap!  Having never made a back plate, and never turning cast iron, I expect it to be an adventure. Been reading lots of posts on making back plates, so have some idea what to do, but there's a BIG difference between reading and doing! Once I get the iron, I'll start a HM thread on it.


The best recommendation I got when I was doing the back plate was to place a paint brush behind the cutter… made a world of difference in dust control… I used a magnetic holder to keep it in place…


----------



## Nogoingback

Bought an AR Warner 1/2" HSS parting tool.  I've never felt the love for the 250-107 AXA parting tool holders,
and while I have a Dorian parting tool that takes inserts which I like, I wanted something else in HSS.  The
kit includes the tool, a HSS blade and an Allen wrench.  (China tool holder not included.).  Obviously not for big jobs with heavy
cuts, but  I've used it 5-6 times in the last few weeks and I'm completely satisfied.  It's a good size for my 10" lathe.  Recommended.


----------



## Winegrower

I have always been lazy about draining water from my compressor.   So I got this automatic drain system:









						JORC 5523 Combo-D-Lux 1/2
					

5523 | IDI_25279 | JORC | eIndustrialSolutions is your source for Combo-D-Lux 1/2 NPT 115 Volt 300 Max. PSI drain valve  JORC Industrial




					www.ecompressedair.com
				




It has lots of different operational modes, and I'm thinking that every time I switch power on to the compressor, it drains for a few seconds.   I have a remote switch for the compressor and normally turn it on in the AM and off if I'm not in the shop.

It looks pretty easy to hook up.


----------



## extropic

Winegrower said:


> I have always been lazy about draining water from my compressor.   So I got this automatic drain system:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JORC 5523 Combo-D-Lux 1/2
> 
> 
> 5523 | IDI_25279 | JORC | eIndustrialSolutions is your source for Combo-D-Lux 1/2 NPT 115 Volt 300 Max. PSI drain valve  JORC Industrial
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ecompressedair.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It has lots of different operational modes, and I'm thinking that every time I switch power on to the compressor, it drains for a few seconds.   I have a remote switch for the compressor and normally turn it on in the AM and off if I'm not in the shop.
> 
> It looks pretty easy to hook up.
> View attachment 393694



I understand the desire for an automated drain.
I guess the strainer is intended to protect the valve.
Now you have to remember to clean the strainer periodically.
No free lunch.


----------



## Winegrower

I am in the market for an automatic strainer cleaner.


----------



## WobblyHand

Have to say you really have to watch the strainers.  Have had strainers plug up on a boiler system.  Wye one way flow connection with strainer.  Got to maintain them _weekly_, because if you don't, it will be a long time before you remember to look again. Had a strainer plug up and cause the premature death of a hot water circulator.


----------



## Winegrower

I can't tell whether it's better not to drain the water or not to clean the strainer.   What a dilemma!


----------



## WobblyHand

This afternoon, the mailman brought me a TMX 1/4"-40 tap and die, both HSS.  Got them from Suncoast Precision Tool.  Want to use the fine threads for a positioner.  I can single point the male threads, but don't have the lathe tooling to make such small internal female threads.  It's good to have the set.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Well not really a purchase. One of the nice things about living at a marina is when people buy new to them boats they tend to go crazy throwing things away. Most times they belong in the trash but people have a tendency to leave good items out of the dumpsters for others to look through. I was taking the trash up to the dumpster yesterday and there was a micrometer box laying next to it. I opened it up and there was a very nice looking mic, it was soaking wet and the barrel moved kind of gummy but I figured I would play with it. Well took it apart and shot some WD40 into it and let it sit for about 24 hours. Wiped it down and it moved as smooth as a baby's back side. I checked it against some of my gauges and it is within tolerance.

So cost $0.00

And lets face it, a tool is a tool.


----------



## Firstram

Nogoingback said:


> Bought an AR Warner 1/2" HSS parting tool.  I've never felt the love for the 250-107 AXA parting tool holders,
> and while I have a Dorian parting tool that takes inserts which I like, I wanted something else in HSS.  The
> kit includes the tool, a HSS blade and an Allen wrench.  (China tool holder not included.).  Obviously not for big jobs with heavy
> cuts, but  I've used it 5-6 times in the last few weeks and I'm completely satisfied.  It's a good size for my 10" lathe.  Recommended.
> 
> 
> View attachment 393693


Since there's no rake on that tool holder, it would work really well up side down with the lathe running in reverse. The blade would also be closer to the tool post.


----------



## erikmannie

I just bought a TMX 12” 6-jaw scroll chuck & a TMX D1-6 adapter:





__





						TMX 12" Set Tru Forged 6 Jaw Lathe chuck Made In Poland
					





					www.ajaxtoolsupply.com
				







and









						TMX Set Tru D1-6 Adapter Plate 3-875-126P for 12" Chucks
					

TMX Set Tru D1-6 Adapter Plate 3-875-126P for 12" Chucks




					www.smalltools.com
				




I saved $455.00 by checking prices from different suppliers over a 4 week period. Ajax Tool on eBay had one chuck available for a much lower price.

Also, we used our 5% back credit card, so this purchase only set us back $2,926.


----------



## BladesIIB

erikmannie said:


> I just bought a TMX 12” 6-jaw scroll chuck & a TMX D1-6 adapter:



Chuck looks great. Let me know how that runs on your TL. I may have to put one on my wish list.


----------



## BladesIIB

My order from Pierson Workholding arrived. The Pro Pallet System starter kit and some extra pallets. Can’t wait to dig into these over the weekend.


----------



## woodchucker

BladesIIB said:


> My order from Pierson Workholding arrived. The Pro Pallet System starter kit and some extra pallets. Can’t wait to dig into these over the weekend.


nice but it's just a box.. I've seen many boxes b4... Show us when you have the goods unwrapped.


----------



## WobblyHand

Surprisingly, I received a box too.  A day before it was to be delivered.  By Fedex, on Sunday, after a snow storm, which is surprising.  
Not to keep you all in suspense too long, it was a Shars set tru ER40 collet chuck.


It was strange.  Saw a Fedex truck pull up next to the front door of the house.  Then the guy goes in the back of the truck, puts the package on the front seat, and drives away.  He goes around the corner, and then delivers it to a side door.  Odd, since Fedex never delivers to the side door.

Now I have to make the back plate, since they are back ordered for 5 months.  Purchased some cast iron from Speedy Metals.  The back plate will be the next project.  Have to buy some ER40 collets, haven't a single one yet.  Also have to buy a wrench, since this collet chuck doesn't come with one.  You know what else it doesn't have?  A hole in the side for a tommy bar.  I have an ER32 chuck for my mini-lathe and it has 3 holes for a tommy bar.  Very handy for tightening and loosening the nut.  However, the ER32 is not a set tru chuck.  

Can one use a tommy bar with a set tru chuck?


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> Can one use a tommy bar with a set tru chuck?


Yes, why wouldn't you be able to.


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> Yes, why wouldn't you be able to.


I asked, because I don't know enough about them.  Never had one before.


----------



## finsruskw

Start a thread on doing the back plate.
I will be doing the same thing soon If I buy the 4 jaw Bison I am looking at and will need some guidance I am sure!


----------



## WobblyHand

finsruskw said:


> Start a thread on doing the back plate.
> I will be doing the same thing soon If I buy the 4 jaw Bison I am looking at and will need some guidance I am sure!


Plan to start a thread.  Maybe later in the week.

You may use my thread as a guide on what mistakes not to do!  I only have a basic idea of how to proceed.  Hope to muddle through.

First thing I am going to do is to make a drawing.  Haven't found a drawing on a set tru back plate, so I have to wing it based on some general guidelines, drawings of the chuck, my spindle, and the size of my chunk of cast iron.


----------



## Papa Charlie

You could always install the tommy bar holes in the backing plate.


----------



## Navy Chief

Placed an order for a new multifix toolpost system from pewetools.de, now the waiting game begins waiting for it to arrive...


----------



## Nogoingback

WobblyHand said:


> Surprisingly, I received a box too.  A day before it was to be delivered.  By Fedex, on Sunday, after a snow storm, which is surprising.
> Not to keep you all in suspense too long, it was a Shars set tru ER40 collet chuck.
> View attachment 394377
> 
> It was strange.  Saw a Fedex truck pull up next to the front door of the house.  Then the guy goes in the back of the truck, puts the package on the front seat, and drives away.  He goes around the corner, and then delivers it to a side door.  Odd, since Fedex never delivers to the side door.
> 
> Now I have to make the back plate, since they are back ordered for 5 months.  Purchased some cast iron from Speedy Metals.  The back plate will be the next project.  Have to buy some ER40 collets, haven't a single one yet.  Also have to buy a wrench, since this collet chuck doesn't come with one.  You know what else it doesn't have?  A hole in the side for a tommy bar.  I have an ER32 chuck for my mini-lathe and it has 3 holes for a tommy bar.  Very handy for tightening and loosening the nut.  However, the ER32 is not a set tru chuck.
> 
> Can one use a tommy bar with a set tru chuck?



I have the same chuck and have been very happy with it.  I made a pin spanner for mine: it engages the holes on the front 
of the chuck.  No problems whatsoever with it.
I bought Techniks collets for mine and I'm happy with them.


----------



## WobblyHand

Well, this is good and bad.  Shars just set me notification that the threaded back plate for my set tru chuck is in stock!  It would save me a lot of time machining a new back plate.  Less than two weeks ago they told me it would be 4-5 months.  So I bought some cast iron to make my own. 

Should I buy the back plate and save the cast iron for something else, or machine the cast iron into a back plate.  To do the machining I'm going to have to make some tools first. Need to make a 3/4" threading bar, and probably buy a 3/4" boring bar.  With AXA tooling I am limited to 3/4". Probably cost more to buy tooling than to buy the back plate.  But machining a back plate seems like almost a rite of passage...

Feel silly asking here, (this is Hobby Machinist after all,) but, what would you do if you were me?  Extra points for also including why.


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> Well, this is good and bad.  Shars just set me notification that the threaded back plate for my set tru chuck is in stock!  It would save me a lot of time machining a new back plate.  Less than two weeks ago they told me it would be 4-5 months.  So I bought some cast iron to make my own.
> 
> Should I buy the back plate and save the cast iron for something else, or machine the cast iron into a back plate.  To do the machining I'm going to have to make some tools first. Need to make a 3/4" threading bar, and probably buy a 3/4" boring bar.  With AXA tooling I am limited to 3/4". Probably cost more to buy tooling than to buy the back plate.  But machining a back plate seems like almost a rite of passage...
> 
> Feel silly asking here, (this is Hobby Machinist after all,) but, what would you do if you were me?  Extra points for also including why.


I'm going to sit on the sidelines on this one. I'll start some popcorn.  This is going to be fun.


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> I'm going to sit on the sidelines on this one. I'll start some popcorn.  This is going to be fun.


Kind of like stirring up the pot, isn't it?


----------



## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> Well, this is good and bad.  Shars just set me notification that the threaded back plate for my set tru chuck is in stock!  It would save me a lot of time machining a new back plate.  Less than two weeks ago they told me it would be 4-5 months.  So I bought some cast iron to make my own.
> 
> Should I buy the back plate and save the cast iron for something else, or machine the cast iron into a back plate.  To do the machining I'm going to have to make some tools first. Need to make a 3/4" threading bar, and probably buy a 3/4" boring bar.  With AXA tooling I am limited to 3/4". Probably cost more to buy tooling than to buy the back plate.  But machining a back plate seems like almost a rite of passage...
> 
> Feel silly asking here, (this is Hobby Machinist after all,) but, what would you do if you were me?  Extra points for also including why.


Just to minimize the mess... and it is a lot of mess.... I would get the one that is back in stock...


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> Kind of like stirring up the pot, isn't it?


well there's only 2 answers, but we are going to get 50 different responses , so yea. And ultimately, it's your decision. I don't think any of us are going to change your mind.


----------



## Just for fun

You already have the cast iron to make the back plate, so go for it and make the back plate!

Going for extra points here..... I would go ahead and make the back plate because I can!  (Well not right now, but someday I will be able to)  LOL


----------



## extropic

@WobblyHand 

I don't know which spindle nose your lathe has. That is a significant factor in the make-buy decision.

If it's available to purchase and I'm not offended by the price, I buy it rather than build from scratch.


----------



## WobblyHand

extropic said:


> @WobblyHand
> 
> I don't know which spindle nose your lathe has. That is a significant factor in the make-buy decision.
> 
> If it's available to purchase and I'm not offended by the price, I buy it rather than build from scratch.


It's a threaded 1-3/4-8 spindle.  Don't have a 3/4 threading bar.  Tried a home made 1/2" bar for threading on my mini-lathe and it had too much chatter even at 3/4" depth.  

But I'm going to machine using my 10x22, which should be more rigid.  I could make a 3/4" bar and try.  I'd want to practice on something like 12L14 first.  I have a 1/2" Circle Machine carbide shank boring bar with TPCB-2200-CM1 inserts that bores sweetly.  2" depth would be 4x bar diameter.  So that might be ok.


----------



## Papa Charlie

WobblyHand said:


> Well, this is good and bad.  Shars just set me notification that the threaded back plate for my set tru chuck is in stock!  It would save me a lot of time machining a new back plate.  Less than two weeks ago they told me it would be 4-5 months.  So I bought some cast iron to make my own.
> 
> Should I buy the back plate and save the cast iron for something else, or machine the cast iron into a back plate.  To do the machining I'm going to have to make some tools first. Need to make a 3/4" threading bar, and probably buy a 3/4" boring bar.  With AXA tooling I am limited to 3/4". Probably cost more to buy tooling than to buy the back plate.  But machining a back plate seems like almost a rite of passage...
> 
> Feel silly asking here, (this is Hobby Machinist after all,) but, what would you do if you were me?  Extra points for also including why.



I am sure as @woodchucker is anticipating, going to be a lot of different views on this. Here is my $0.02 worth.

1) You have already purchased the raw material to make your own.
2) If you make your own, and make it on the machine that will use the collet chuck then you know it will be true to your spindle thereby ensuring that you will get the most accuracy out of the collets.
3) If you buy the already made one, you are going to have fork out more money for the backing plate and shipping that you could use towards the collets.
4) You don't know how accurate the backing plate will be on your machine. Remember a chuck is a system of the backing plate, the alignment of the joint between the backing plate and chuck, and finally the alignment between the chuck taper and the collets. Any variation in each part of the system exaggerates the misalignment between the spindle and the work piece.

Just my opinion since you asked.


----------



## woodchucker

Papa Charlie said:


> I am sure as @woodchucker is anticipating, going to be a lot of different views on this. Here is my $0.02 worth.


+1


----------



## WobblyHand

extropic said:


> If it's available to purchase and I'm not offended by the price, I buy it rather than build from scratch.


I'm not offended by the price, more about the shipping.  Shars shipping cost is Edit: $23 $12 for this $62 part.  Edit: Dunno, this bugs me. That isn't that bad.  Maybe I can call them and see if they can ship this in flat rate box. 

This isn't a completely finished part, since I still need to machine the boss and the face.  However, the hole is bored, the threading is done, and the holes are drilled.  So it would save a lot of time.

Still not sure which way to go.
Edit: Price isn't the problem, I must have misread the shipping.  Makes it closer than I expected.  Still going to machine rather than buy.


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> I'm not offended by the price, more about the shipping.  Shars shipping cost is $23 for this $62 part.  Dunno, this bugs me.  Maybe I can call them and see if they can ship this in flat rate box.
> 
> This isn't a completely finished part, since I still need to machine the boss and the face.  However, the hole is bored, the threading is done, and the holes are drilled.  So it would save a lot of time.
> 
> Still not sure which way to go.


Did you check out their price on Epay.. sometimes the price and shipping are less.


----------



## sdelivery

Wobblyhand stay focused.  They did not have the part you wanted, you bought the material don't question your previous judgment Make the part and take pictures to post!


----------



## WobblyHand

Papa Charlie said:


> I am sure as @woodchucker is anticipating, going to be a lot of different views on this. Here is my $0.02 worth.
> 
> 1) You have already purchased the raw material to make your own.
> 2) If you make your own, and make it on the machine that will use the collet chuck then you know it will be true to your spindle thereby ensuring that you will get the most accuracy out of the collets.
> 3) If you buy the already made one, you are going to have fork out more money for the backing plate and shipping that you could use towards the collets.
> 4) You don't know how accurate the backing plate will be on your machine. Remember a chuck is a system of the backing plate, the alignment of the joint between the backing plate and chuck, and finally the alignment between the chuck taper and the collets. Any variation in each part of the system exaggerates the misalignment between the spindle and the work piece.
> 
> Just my opinion since you asked.


Thanks for your opinion.  Honestly, I asked for opinions (and the why) because I'm trying to screw up enough courage to proceed with either of them.  Thought it would be helpful to hear opinions from experienced people.  I'm not yet in that group!


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> Did you check out their price on Epay.. sometimes the price and shipping are less.


Yeah, I did.  Wasn't even a listing.  Sent a message to discount_machine today and they said it is not available.  However, I could buy both a chuck and the matching plate on discount_machine.  The back plate is available on the Shars website!  Weird.  

I bought the chuck from discount_machine and saved $40 compared to buying from Shars.  Not sure I understand what their model is.


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> Thanks for your opinion.  Honestly, I asked for opinions (and the why) because I'm trying to screw up enough courage to proceed with either of them.  Thought it would be helpful to hear opinions from experienced people.  I'm not yet in that group!


Oh, but as I have said before, just because people have experience, doesn't mean they don't screw up.. Sometimes big time.
One person on you tube who went pro was showing his work for a customer, showed the blueprint, and the part. I mentioned to him that he had cut a cutout backward from the blueprint... everyone then noticed that I was right.. that was his last posting ever. Up until then he was so proud. I didn't do it for shame, I did it so he would know before he delivered it.  Sometimes S happens.


----------



## WobblyHand

sdelivery said:


> Wobblyhand stay focused.  They did not have the part you wanted, you bought the material don't question your previous judgment Make the part and take pictures to post!


I'm leaning this way.  I have the metal.  Don't have the full design yet.  Shars conveniently left out the dimensions of this backing plate.  But I am maybe 50% done making a FreeCAD model of the back plate.  Wasn't too hard.  Got to make some spindle measurements still, but the model is parameterized, so I can stuff in some real numbers instead of the swag I made.

I'm missing some tooling and frankly the experience.  Can't get the experience unless you do it, so I get that.  Leaning towards just doing it.


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> Oh, but as I have said before, just because people have experience, doesn't mean they don't screw up.. Sometimes big time.
> One person on you tube who went pro was showing his work for a customer, showed the blueprint, and the part. I mentioned to him that he had cut a cutout backward from the blueprint... everyone then noticed that I was right.. that was his last posting ever. Up until then he was so proud. I didn't do it for shame, I did it so he would know before he delivered it.  Sometimes S happens.


Hey, we are all human (I think!) so mistakes happen, even on a grand scale.  But there's some merit to asking people's opinions.  Maybe they can share some hard earned wisdom.  That's not a bad thing.  

I'm going to be diving into the deep end.  I have the material.  It's a new set of skills to learn.  I get to make tools.  Maybe I get to buy tools. Mmm, that doesn't sound bad so far.  It will be a project.  

Yeah, a bit worried about muffing the piece, but, I can buy more iron, right?  Or a back plate?   Going for it.  Only one way to learn to do this, and that is to try.


----------



## WobblyHand

Sorry for the interruption.  Looking forward to seeing all your new stuff!


----------



## Just for fun

I was just going to say go ahead and make it, if you screw it so bad it won't work then but the backplate. 

I don't have any experience yet, so you have way more experience more than what I have.


----------



## Kevin T

WobblyHand said:


> Feel silly asking here, (this is Hobby Machinist after all,) but, what would you do if you were me?  Extra points for also including why.



I would purchase the one that is threaded but that's because I bought chucks to use for other projects not have the chuck be a project! You'll earn a lot of well deserved respect if you make it yourself though not to mention the extra skills you will pick up. I've made a few now starting from threaded blanks and it is a messy job. You'll want to put some thought into how you are going to protect your machine from the mess. The last one I did I fashioned a cardboard fence around the work area and kept a shop vac on during the turning. So I guess it's a messy and a noisy affair!




It might not apply to your machine or motor but I had really good luck with negative rake carbide insert tooling on this last one. I leaned a lot about what my machine could do with cast iron too. I played with speeds and feeds and I had a lot of time to do this since the blank I started with was 10" diameter and I needed to take it down to ~5 1/2. 

After awhile I settled on .075 deep cuts and it was great. Passing through the end of the material created these rings!







Good luck! It is rewarding outfitting your own chuck.


----------



## JRaut

I've been working on this 5-cylinder radial engine on/off for coming on two years now. I'm hoping to finish up by summer (fingers crossed):








						Edwards Radial 5 build thread --- PHOTOS!
					

Episode 1 || Introduction to My Build Thread   Background After a brief search through the H-M.com archives, I was a bit surprised that nobody had documented their journey building an Edwards Radial 5-cylinder engine. These engines are reasonably complex and time consuming to construct, but as...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				





Seeing that the project is hopefully in the waning months, I'm starting to plan my next big project.

I'm not sure how ambitious I want to go yet, but I'm planning on it being clock/watch/timekeeper related. So in anticipation of kicking that project off, I figured I'd get a Bergeon tool catalog to help me brainstorm. They're the worldwide leader in watch/clockmaking tools, so it should make some nice bedtime reading.


----------



## rwm

antikythera device?


----------



## wachuko

I still have not ordered the 5C chuck for my lathe, but figured I would get this stop... for the price, I thought it was a good value...

Also got some products for cleaning the mill and lathe, and something to protect it afterwards...


----------



## extropic

@wachuko

I, for one, would like to see some "before and after" photos of using the Rust Free product.

I'm wondering how it compares to Evaporust in procedure and results.


----------



## wachuko

extropic said:


> @wachuko
> 
> I, for one, would like to see some "before and after" photos of using the Rust Free product.
> 
> I'm wondering how it compares to Evaporust in procedure and results.


@extropic - only using the Boeshield Rust Free to clean the table on the mill and the chucks on the lathe... 

This does not compare to Evaporust where the part is submerged... 

Here, take a look at this video for what I am trying to do with the mill table:


----------



## extropic

@wachuko 

Thanks for the link. That video showed exactly what I wanted to know.


----------



## 682bear

Ebay purchase...




5 radius cutters... a 9/16", three 1", and a 1-3/8".

-Bear


----------



## middle.road

There was an estate sale a couple of weeks ago. Heavily packed hobbyist shop.
I didn't go the first two days because I didn't want anything 'heavy' following me home.
Most of the items were of the import variety *but *there were several pieces that weren't, hence why I stayed away:








Rumor has it that they were priced around $700.00 each.
Isn't that Shaper fantastic?!! Man, I wanted it bad, but am out of floor space.

We went on Sunday and unfortunately there was still some cast iron left to be had. And it was 50% off day. . .
Their 'pricing' was a tad bizarre.
There was a floor standing import drill press from the '80s, sweet looking machine, and they had $600 on it.
I kept drooling over it, but did not really feel like having to move it, it was a beast. Wasn't the best layout for loading equipment.
Another gentleman was interested but said to me that he didn't know anything about them or how to operate them.
I gave him a 10 minute course, and also told him to check out YT. Thankfully he bought it.



Then there was a heavy duty bench type import also from the '80s that was marked at $750.00   
And here's where I got in trouble. It followed us home. They took me up on my offer of $100.00
I hadn't looked into the cabinet underneath for some odd reason, guess I should have. 








And I grabbed this heat press for a friend. Dang thing must weigh 300#
Luckily and I do mean Luck in caps, there were two movers there lugging out a piano and an organ.
We hired them to move the press(es). $20 well spent.



Went back with the trailer on Tuesday to pickup the two items.
And then we really got into trouble.
There were two cabinets filled with linotype printing press letters (matrices?).
Honey bought them.
Had to remove most of the trays and load them into the Silverado. 


And Honey picked up a bunch of other stuff. The 'Buy-Out' people hadn't showed up yet due to the weather.


----------



## DAM 79

A nice Starrett 98 level 12”  I picked up the other day it’s going to make it easier for leveling out machines and it’s like brand new


----------



## wachuko

Spent the day trying to decide on which 5C Collect chuck to get for my G0709...

Ordered a Precision Matthews 5C Collect Chuck with D1-5 mount...
Ordered an HHIP 3900-2107 Single Quickie Vise Handle to make it easier/faster to tighten and loosen the 5C collects... Doing the same that @ptrotter did (thread).  Here is a photo of his setup:


----------



## francist

682bear said:


> 5 radius cutters... a 9/16", three 1", and a 1-3/8".


What’cha gonna do with those, Bear?
I’m actually just curious. I have a couple for my little horizontal miller and always have an eye out for more, but my uses so far have only been for making flutes in handles and knobs, that type of thing. A somewhat esoteric use. Not long ago someone on here asked what uses other than for “decorative” features radius cutters had, and I don’t know that there were a lot of responses so I’m curious if you have a particular use in mind? Not that we need a reason to buy tools… 

-frank


----------



## 682bear

francist said:


> What’cha gonna do with those, Bear?
> I’m actually just curious. I have a couple for my little horizontal miller and always have an eye out for more, but my uses so far have only been for making flutes in handles and knobs, that type of thing. A somewhat esoteric use. Not long ago someone on here asked what uses other than for “decorative” features radius cutters had, and I don’t know that there were a lot of responses so I’m curious if you have a particular use in mind? Not that we need a reason to buy tools…
> 
> -frank



I really don't have any plans for them... I bought them just in case I ever need them. I made the seller an offer and he accepted it... They were pretty inexpensive.

-Bear


----------



## BGHansen

wachuko said:


> Spent the day trying to decide on which 5C Collect chuck to get for my G0709...
> 
> Ordered a Precision Matthews 5C Collect Chuck with D1-5 mount...
> Ordered an HHIP 3900-2107 Single Quickie Vise Handle to make it easier/faster to tighten and loosen the 5C collects... Doing the same that @ptrotter did (thread).  Here is a photo of his setup:


Here's an alternate method though it still requires two tools (link below).  My CDCO 5C collet chuck takes ~20 turns to fully loosen/tighten a collet.  I adapted a 1/4" hex to 3/8" square arbor to fit the metric square chuck hole (don't recall the size but it's under 3/8"), use a cordless drill to do the spinning.  The link within the link is broken to the actual construction.  Quick version is the square end of the arbor was hard so it was mounted in a square 5C collet block and dusted on all 4 sides until it fit into the chuck.  Depending on the torque setting on the cordless, I can bypass the manual chuck key though I keep the torque low and manually tighten.

Bruce











						Do I Need A Collet Chuck?
					

I had time to piddle with my new 5C collet chuck.  First off, if you've used a collect closer that has the handle (sorry for not knowing the correct terms for stuff) at the back of the lathe, you will not like the collet chuck.....it takes a long time to "wind" the collet into the...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## Navy Chief

middle.road said:


> There was an estate sale a couple of weeks ago. Heavily packed hobbyist shop.
> I didn't go the first two days because I didn't want anything 'heavy' following me home.
> Most of the items were of the import variety *but *there were several pieces that weren't, hence why I stayed away:
> View attachment 394950
> View attachment 394951
> View attachment 394952
> View attachment 394954
> View attachment 394955
> View attachment 394956
> View attachment 394957
> 
> Rumor has it that they were priced around $700.00 each.
> Isn't that Shaper fantastic?!! Man, I wanted it bad, but am out of floor space.
> 
> We went on Sunday and unfortunately there was still some cast iron left to be had. And it was 50% off day. . .
> Their 'pricing' was a tad bizarre.
> There was a floor standing import drill press from the '80s, sweet looking machine, and they had $600 on it.
> I kept drooling over it, but did not really feel like having to move it, it was a beast. Wasn't the best layout for loading equipment.
> Another gentleman was interested but said to me that he didn't know anything about them or how to operate them.
> I gave him a 10 minute course, and also told him to check out YT. Thankfully he bought it.
> View attachment 394963
> 
> 
> Then there was a heavy duty bench type import also from the '80s that was marked at $750.00
> And here's where I got in trouble. It followed us home. They took me up on my offer of $100.00
> I hadn't looked into the cabinet underneath for some odd reason, guess I should have.
> View attachment 394965
> View attachment 394966
> 
> 
> View attachment 394967
> View attachment 394970
> 
> 
> And I grabbed this heat press for a friend. Dang thing must weigh 300#
> Luckily and I do mean Luck in caps, there were two movers there lugging out a piano and an organ.
> We hired them to move the press(es). $20 well spent.
> View attachment 394968
> 
> 
> Went back with the trailer on Tuesday to pickup the two items.
> And then we really got into trouble.
> There were two cabinets filled with linotype printing press letters (matrices?).
> Honey bought them.
> Had to remove most of the trays and load them into the Silverado.
> View attachment 394969
> 
> And Honey picked up a bunch of other stuff. The 'Buy-Out' people hadn't showed up yet due to the weather.


I would have been in trouble with that shaper, I am also out of floor space and in the process of playing garage tetris to make everything fit and be usable.. But it still may have followed me home...


----------



## Winegrower

I bought a vertical bandsaw, after finally figuring how to fit it in the shop.   I will pick it up next week, it’s about 100 miles away.   It’s a Jet VBS-900.  Here’s a stock picture of one, FYI.   What I like is the huge throat and relatively small footprint of 60” x 27”.   It’s only around 1200 or 1400 pounds, so I will rent a flat bed trailer and use my engine hoist.  I am expecting this to go well.     I always expect that.   Slow learner.    Edit:  Ignore the “Do not cut steel” sticker.


----------



## rwm

That is rally cool. Why does it say "Do not cut steel?" That may be a problem?


----------



## Winegrower

rwm said:


> Why does it say "Do not cut steel?" That may be a problem?


That is a stock photo, stuck on by somebody in some other environment.   It can cut steel.


----------



## woodchucker

were you able to find reviews of that saw?

I would think it needs 4 wheels for that configuration. I wonder how small the smallest wheel is?
Smaller wheels put stress on a band...


----------



## Navy Chief

Winegrower said:


> I bought a vertical bandsaw, after finally figuring how to fit it in the shop. I will pick it up next week, it’s about 100 miles away. It’s a Jet VBS-900. Here’s a stock picture of one, FYI. What I like is the huge throat and relatively small footprint of 60” x 27”. It’s only around 1200 or 1400 pounds, so I will rent a flat bed trailer and use my engine hoist. I am expecting this to go well.  I always expect that. Slow learner. Edit: Ignore the “Do not cut steel” sticker.
> 
> View attachment 395050


I hope your engine hoist lifts higher than mine does....

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## Winegrower

Navy Chief said:


> I hope your engine hoist lifts higher than mine does....


Yes, that's a good issue.   I'm renting a pretty low and tilt bed trailer, and the saw is only about 61" tall.    I have hopes.


----------



## Winegrower

woodchucker said:


> were you able to find reviews of that saw?
> 
> I would think it needs 4 wheels for that configuration. I wonder how small the smallest wheel is?
> Smaller wheels put stress on a band...


I couldn't find any reviews, unfortunately.   I saw a picture of a similar saw which had three wheels, but I concur, 4 seems more likely.  I'll find out for sure next week.    Remember this is hobby use, so I expect a lifetime (mine) of use from a blade.   Plus it has a welder, as a fairly terrifying thought.   But welding a blade _sounds_ easy.


----------



## Gaffer

middle.road said:


> There was an estate sale a couple of weeks ago. Heavily packed hobbyist shop.
> I didn't go the first two days because I didn't want anything 'heavy' following me home.
> Most of the items were of the import variety *but *there were several pieces that weren't, hence why I stayed away:
> View attachment 394950
> View attachment 394951
> View attachment 394952
> View attachment 394954
> View attachment 394955
> View attachment 394956
> View attachment 394957
> 
> Rumor has it that they were priced around $700.00 each.
> Isn't that Shaper fantastic?!! Man, I wanted it bad, but am out of floor space.
> 
> We went on Sunday and unfortunately there was still some cast iron left to be had. And it was 50% off day. . .
> Their 'pricing' was a tad bizarre.
> There was a floor standing import drill press from the '80s, sweet looking machine, and they had $600 on it.
> I kept drooling over it, but did not really feel like having to move it, it was a beast. Wasn't the best layout for loading equipment.
> Another gentleman was interested but said to me that he didn't know anything about them or how to operate them.
> I gave him a 10 minute course, and also told him to check out YT. Thankfully he bought it.
> View attachment 394963
> 
> 
> Then there was a heavy duty bench type import also from the '80s that was marked at $750.00
> And here's where I got in trouble. It followed us home. They took me up on my offer of $100.00
> I hadn't looked into the cabinet underneath for some odd reason, guess I should have.
> View attachment 394965
> View attachment 394966
> 
> 
> View attachment 394967
> View attachment 394970
> 
> 
> And I grabbed this heat press for a friend. Dang thing must weigh 300#
> Luckily and I do mean Luck in caps, there were two movers there lugging out a piano and an organ.
> We hired them to move the press(es). $20 well spent.
> View attachment 394968
> 
> 
> Went back with the trailer on Tuesday to pickup the two items.
> And then we really got into trouble.
> There were two cabinets filled with linotype printing press letters (matrices?).
> Honey bought them.
> Had to remove most of the trays and load them into the Silverado.
> View attachment 394969
> 
> And Honey picked up a bunch of other stuff. The 'Buy-Out' people hadn't showed up yet due to the weather.


That's what I call cutting a fat hog in the a$$. Congrats!!!


----------



## woodchucker

the reason I brought it up, is the little hobby type saws with 3 wheels were a thing around 87-90 about there. I wanted one, but didn't get one. Glad I didn't ... the 3 wheelers were so small a radius that blades broke from fatigue. 
I expect yours won't be that tight a radius, but I am curious.  It still looks smallish..

blade welders are awesome. And not hard to do.


----------



## NCjeeper

I picked up this cool Brown & Sharpe Catalog off of E-bay.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Just a small indicator. I have a couple of dial indicators, this was a very low cost mechanical device(<$5) off of eBay. Another "I didn't need, but thought I should have" item. A lot of times, I buy something just because it's cheap. . .



.


----------



## mmcmdl

Bi11Hudson said:


> Just a small indicator.


A " wiggle stick " !   I have a fuchs from 1916 which was my uncle's fathers .


----------



## projectnut

Not a huge score, but I did stop at one of my favorite used machinery dealers yesterday.  I ended up with 31 new in the box taps, and 3 end mills for a total of $80.00.  The majority of the taps were wire size spiral flute bottoming style except for a dozen 3/8-16 plug taps, and 4 1/2-24 plug taps. 

The 1/2-24 are unique in that they're an obsolete NS size.  They just happen to be used on my Seneca Falls lathe.  I was a bit surprised when I came across them since they haven't been in production for some time.  The ones I found were S. W. Card brand.  That company was bought out by Union Tools in 1908.  At first, I assumed they would be carbon steel.  On closer inspection I found both the box and the individual taps were marked High Speed Steel.  I thought HSS was introduced later in the 20th century.  Live and learn.


----------



## wachuko

Got this from eBay... not sure when I will need it... But I wanted to buy something from this guy!




Names left out to protect the innocent...


----------



## mmcmdl

I'm sure he has a lot left to unload !


----------



## Navy Chief

mmcmdl said:


> I'm sure he has a lot left to unload !


He might still be unloading it from his wife's minivan...

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## wachuko

mmcmdl said:


> I'm sure he has a lot left to unload !


Just let me know what else I need, lol.

On other news, this arrived today as well...


----------



## mmcmdl

Piloted counterbores and a speed wrench ? They would've fit in that box you just got !


----------



## Larry$

WobblyHand said:


> Not sure I understand what their model is.


Me either! The adjustable 7 x 10 angle plate I just bought had the Shars sticker on the box. Had never been out of the box and was 1/2 Shars price. A few years ago someone else bought Shars and the really good deals quickly disappeared. Was it MSC that bought them? Amazon has one that including shipping is a little cheaper . different design with less webbing and weighs 6 #s less. 
I've been comparing prices between eBay, Shars and Quality Tool. On some items their eBay price is higher than their catalog  but shipping is either free or much cheaper. The eBay total cost coming out a little cheaper. Strange since they have to pay the eBay fees.


----------



## WobblyHand

Larry$ said:


> Me either! The adjustable 7 x 10 angle plate I just bought had the Shars sticker on the box. Had never been out of the box and was 1/2 Shars price. A few years ago someone else bought Shars and the really good deals quickly disappeared. Was it MSC that bought them? Amazon has one that including shipping is a little cheaper . different design with less webbing and weighs 6 #s less.
> I've been comparing prices between eBay, Shars and Quality Tool. On some items their eBay price is higher than their catalog  but shipping is either free or much cheaper. The eBay total cost coming out a little cheaper. Strange since they have to pay the eBay fees.


discount_machine is the eBay arm of Shars.  They exclusively sell Shars items.  Sometimes there are significant differences in pricing between Shars and discount_machine, so it pays to check.  I paid $107 for my ER40 set tru chuck using discount_machine just recently.  Shars had the same item for $147.  However, both of them do not seem to offer low cost shipping.  I find shipping from Shars and discount_machine _seem_ to be higher than most other suppliers.  Maybe if asked (and I haven't tried yet) they would ship via flat rate boxes.  

Not aware of Shars being purchased, but have to admit, I don't follow that sort of thing.

With all of these suppliers one has to look very carefully at what short cuts may have been taken.  Was just looking at the adjustable angle plates this morning!  They seem to have different "bearing surfaces" on them.  Some seem to have multiple skinny ribs, others wider beefier ones.  The weights are all different, primarily due to how they attempted to thin out the casting.  Definitely buyer beware.


----------



## Just for fun

mmcmdl said:


> Piloted counterbores and a speed wrench ? They would've fit in that box you just got !



I just sent you a DM I would be interested in some Piloted counterbores.

Tim


----------



## projectnut

The items offered by Discount Machine are purchased by Shars in volumes large enough to get substantial discounts from the manufacturers.  Often times the items sell fast enough that they don't make it over to Discount Machine.  Other times more seem to be sold at Discount Machine than on the regular Shars website.

You have to check both places religiously when making a substantial purchase.  I found a while ago that they both run sales independent of one another.  I was looking for a broach set and checked both places.  Initially Discount Machine was slightly less expensive when the shipping was included.  I procrastinated a while and finally went back to make an order.  When I did a second check Shars had the set on sale and Discount Machine didn't.  I ended up buying from the Shars website for $125.00 less than if I had gone through Discount Machine.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought two of these for my 4- and 6-jaw 12” TMX chucks:









						Regency 14 1/4" x 14 1/4" x 7 1/2" Milk Crate Dolly - 1 Stack Capacity
					

Save time transporting your milk crates by stacking them on this mobile Regency milk crate dolly. Accommodating a 13" x 13" crate or stack of crates, this dolly will maneuver easily and quickly around your commercial kitchens, storerooms, and hallways. Wherever you need to go, this dolly will...




					www.webstaurantstore.com
				










The weight capacity is 500 lbs; one of the chucks is 170 lbs. I like the low center of gravity because the way that I am storing the chuck now (on top of a narrow welding cart), I was always afraid that the cart would tip over.


----------



## matthewsx

Went to Harbor Freight today with the wife and her friend.




and




Guess I’ve been good  

John


----------



## erikmannie

matthewsx said:


> Went to Harbor Freight today with the wife and her friend.
> 
> View attachment 395313
> 
> 
> and
> 
> View attachment 395314
> 
> 
> Guess I’ve been good
> 
> John



So you are going to use that for flux core. Dual shield?


----------



## Papa Charlie

erikmannie said:


> So you are going to use that for flux core. Dual shield?


I don't think that has accommodations for gas, flux core wire only.


----------



## matthewsx

erikmannie said:


> So you are going to use that for flux core. Dual shield?


Open to suggestions.


----------



## matthewsx

Not planning on doing anything fancy, told my wife I’d make her some plant stands.

I have an old Miller in Michigan and has welding here if I need it.
I’ve read some good reviews on this one and it’s on sale right now.


----------



## NCjeeper

Well I bought this hobby lathe a few weeks ago. I had not had a chance to get it into the shop until today.


----------



## rwm

Holy ****.


----------



## Brento

Hobby lathe you say?  What hobby you in? Lol


----------



## projectnut

Me thinks his hobby is building full size locomotives or army tanks.


----------



## WobblyHand

projectnut said:


> Me thinks his hobby is building full size locomotives or army tanks.


Could make one heck of a peashooter with that lathe!  10 foot barrel, wow.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

I think that's one of them there "bench lathes". As in, put some plywood on top of the bed and you have an instant bench 

congrats on the purchase, looking forward to more details when you have the time. You're certainly doing a fine job of filling up that lovely new shop!


----------



## Papa Charlie

NCjeeper said:


> Well I bought this hobby lathe a few weeks ago. I had not had a chance to get it into the shop until today.
> View attachment 395332
> 
> View attachment 395333


You know that just because you have the room now that the shop is built, you don't have to fill it up. 

Revision: Typo


----------



## mmcmdl

NCjeeper said:


> Well I bought this hobby lathe a few weeks ago. I had not had a chance to get it into the shop until today.


 Looking good !


----------



## jwmay

I bought this fancy thing for 9 dollars.  The cat cost way more than that.  Hopefully, this will be at least two times as useful as the cat.  What is 2 times zero, again?


----------



## mmcmdl

The daughter came home with this last week for her craft interests . I'm anxious to see what it will do . 



			https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=cricut+maker+3


----------



## wachuko

mmcmdl said:


> The daughter came home with this last week for her craft interests . I'm anxious to see what it will do .
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=cricut+maker+3



It can do all kind of wonders.  Wife has one and it gets used a lot!!


----------



## mmcmdl

If it can take the place of a lathe , mill and SG I'll pick up alot of space !   


wachuko said:


> It can do all kind of wonders. Wife has one and it gets used a lot!!


----------



## wachuko

mmcmdl said:


> If it can take the place of a lathe , mill and SG I'll pick up alot of space !


Hahahahaha nope!  But for cutting leather, vinyl, cardboard, making labels, t-shirt art, cup art, etc. , it can’t be beat…

I do not know how to use it… I let my wife help me with that one.  She has made me some vinyl labels for a couple of fun projects….









And also making me one this week to try metal etching…


----------



## Navy Chief

wachuko said:


> Hahahahaha nope!  But for cutting leather, vinyl, cardboard, making labels, t-shirt art, cup art, etc. , it can’t be beat…
> 
> I do not know how to use it… I let my wife help me with that one.  She has made me some vinyl labels for a couple of fun projects…. And also making me one this week to try metal etching…


Have not tried it, but have read that they are good for cutting gaskets also.


----------



## mmcmdl

I need to make a few dozen bird houses . The blue birds ( not blue jays ) are everywhere lately .


----------



## mmcmdl

I'm assuming this doesn't use Smart Cam , easy cam , virtual gibs or unigraphics 'eh ?   Jeez , back into cnc after 20 years out of it .


----------



## Christianstark

NCjeeper said:


> Well I bought this hobby lathe a few weeks ago. I had not had a chance to get it into the shop until today.
> View attachment 395332
> 
> View attachment 395333


Cute!


----------



## Ken from ontario

I needed a half decent clamp type multimeter and settled on this one. kept looking at all the stuff this tool is capable of, most of which will not be used (I'm no electrician, Just DIYer). but for basic functions, this model sounded more than adequate:
[


----------



## Just for fun

Ken,  Looks like a nice tool !


----------



## Ken from ontario

Thanks JFF, the thing is most of these meters nowadays have too many functions, choosing one that reads AC/DC (V/A) as well as temperature was the reason for buying this one (although they all more or less claim the same features ), I couldn't go for anything cheaper than this.


----------



## Brento

@mmcmdl my wife has a small side business using the cricut. She runs 2 of them. Thats why i want to get a pantograph built to do some work for her.


----------



## woodchucker

I've seen a few (cricut) show up on freecycle around here. I would think it could be valuable for making labels, and masks for etching. If you wanted to bead blast dials with markings , art works, your makers mark... etc.

I have not seen one in use, or watched a video yet, but plan to.. that way I know more.


----------



## Brento

My plan is since my wife has the cricut she can make her own stencil for a font that she wants engraved and then when i get the pantograph going i can use her stencils to do it.


----------



## Aaron_W

woodchucker said:


> I've seen a few (cricut) show up on freecycle around here. I would think it could be valuable for making labels, and masks for etching. If you wanted to bead blast dials with markings , art works, your makers mark... etc.
> 
> I have not seen one in use, or watched a video yet, but plan to.. that way I know more.



Some modelers use them to make stencils so they can paint markings on instead of using decals. They can do some fairly fine detail so pretty handy for a lot of things. My wife and I bought a Silhouette Cameo which is a similar machine although I haven't done much with it yet.


----------



## projectnut

Got a bit of a rude awakening yesterday.  Somewhere yet to be determined I misplaced my Starrett 6" rule.  I looked in all the obvious places to no avail, so I decided it was time to bite the bullet and buy another.  I went online, priced them at half a dozen different vendors, and was shocked to say the least.

Here's a link to the model C604RE-6 I prefer at McMaster:








						McMaster-Carr
					

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




					www.mcmaster.com
				




The last time I bought one was probably 20 years ago.  For years the company I worked for handed them out free to staff engineers, and as promotional gifts to mechanics and technicians.   They stopped the practice when Starrett raised the price to $6.00 a unit.  They switched to Mitutoyo brand which were still available for $3.00 a unit.

Well today they cost $31.50 each.  I guess I should be a little more careful as to where I lay it down.  However, if it's like most "lost" tools it will miraculously reappear within minutes of the delivery time of the new one.


----------



## WobblyHand

projectnut said:


> Got a bit of a rude awakening yesterday.  Somewhere yet to be determined I misplaced my Starrett 6" rule.  I looked in all the obvious places to no avail, so I decided it was time to bite the bullet and buy another.  I went online, priced them at half a dozen different vendors, and was shocked to say the least.
> 
> Here's a link to the model C604RE-6 I prefer at McMaster:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> McMaster-Carr
> 
> 
> McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.mcmaster.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last time I bought one was probably 20 years ago.  For years the company I worked for handed them out free to staff engineers, and as promotional gifts to mechanics and technicians.   They stopped the practice when Starrett raised the price to $6.00 a unit.  They switched to Mitutoyo brand which were still available for $3.00 a unit.
> 
> Well today they cost $31.50 each.  I guess I should be a little more careful as to where I lay it down.  However, if it's like most "lost" tools it will miraculously reappear within minutes of the delivery time of the new one.


Ouch.  For what it's worth, Mit scales are relatively inexpensive.  Bought one a year ago for under $14.  Not a Starrett, but pretty nice.  Mm on one side and 0.1 + 0.01 inch on the other.


----------



## mmcmdl

I can remember when the Starretts were under 5 bucks .   But I also remember .29 cent gas .


----------



## Suzuki4evr

NCjeeper said:


> Well I bought this hobby lathe a few weeks ago. I had not had a chance to get it into the shop until today.
> View attachment 395332
> 
> View attachment 395333


Hobby you say.....


----------



## WobblyHand

Suzuki4evr said:


> Hobby you say.....


Yeah, he collects big iron


----------



## Ken from ontario

What can I say, I had to return that red  multimeter and get a Klein390 . Had no choice but to return the one I posted(post#7.769) which was a Kaiweets HT208D.
After reading a few negative reviews , It looks like the battery contacts on some of these meters are kind of loose which leads to blinking screen and /or the unit not powering up at all.  mine just would not stay on, tried 3 different sets of new batteries and nothing made it stay on, so within half hour of receiving it, I shipped it back. 
Here's the one I should have got in the first place:


----------



## Doug Gray

Shop Microscope

I've always wanted a shop microscope to inspect surface finish, lathe tool cutting edges etc. I picked up this one for $50 Canadian.
The images are great but the thing is a bear to use. Soon as you touch it to focus everything goes cattywampus. I intend to build a stand that will hold it more rigidly.



			https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07DVFBVPF/ref=syn_sd_onsite_desktop_107?psc=1&pd_rd_plhdr=t&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQVZCREU1WUkxMFVPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjYyOTMwUFJGS0U4NUQwWUNMJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5NDg0OTYzVVFZR1BEMUNSU1UzJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c2Rfb25zaXRlX2Rlc2t0b3AmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
		



Here is a video review I did.








Here is a shot of an insert. So that's why my finish is so bad


----------



## francist

Thats the first thing I did with mine. This one is really basic and I’m confident you’ll come up with something g more refined, but it does work and is a lot more stable. Pro Tip: make sure you take off the clear lens cap if yours came with one. Clarity of images is much improved without trying to view through it!

-frank


----------



## Doug Gray

Nice stand Frank. Yes I took the lens cap off for the first use... and put it in a safe place... gone forever


----------



## rwm

Ken from ontario said:


> What can I say, I had to return that red  multimeter and get a Klein390 . Had no choice but to return the one I posted(post#7.769) which was a Kaiweets HT208D.
> After reading a few negative reviews , It looks like the battery contacts on some of these meters are kind of loose which leads to blinking screen and /or the unit not powering up at all.  mine just would not stay on, tried 3 different sets of new batteries and nothing made it stay on, so within half hour of receiving it, I shipped it back.
> Here's the one I should have got in the first place:
> View attachment 395658


Does that really do DC amps?


----------



## ahazi

rwm said:


> Does that really do DC amps?


Some of the newer multimeters with clamps can measure DC current through the clamp. Unlike the old designs that used a current transformer in the clamp, the newer clamp uses a Hall effect sensor to measure both AC and DC current. It is a pretty neat feature.

Ariel


----------



## Aarongerike

Picked up a Lagun-Matic 110 with a delta 20 cnc... I have no idea how to do anything with cnc. Guess I have some learning to do.


----------



## Winegrower

I got this Jet VBS-900 bandsaw home last night, after a bit of a struggle.   The seller loaded it on my rental tilt trailer by hanging it from a chain on the forks, using the hook eye on the saw.   It hangs perfectly level from the hook, making things easy.   I have some 3” web straps and ratchets that are excellent hold downs, and we sat the saw directly on the trailer bed, no pallet, and strapped it down.  This worked fine, it rode well, and my hoist was just tall enough to slide its feet under the trailer.  Working the saw back on the trailer and modulating the tilt with the adjusting screw, we could lift the saw enough to clear the trailer bed and roll it away.   Trouble is then, the saw is too wide to sit down through the legs of the hoist, so I kludged up some supports and lowered the saw on to them and extracted the hoist.

Some surprises were encountered, of course.  It was not hooked up as promised, so I had to wait while the seller folks figured a way to get 3 phase.  In the meantime I pawed through the grime to get to the motor nameplate…it was a Leeson, but only 1/3 HP.   I don’t know the original hp, but today I found and bought a 1.5 hp replacement.   Finally the saw powered up, and another surprise, it was quiet, smooth, the Reeves variable speed was perfect, and there is a 4 speed transmission that can be shifted on the fly.   The welder seemed dead and the grinder motor shaft was bent, so a price adjust covered that.   It can use a new blade, the air pump belt is missing and seems suspicious.  Not sure how important that is.   Today I made some better supports, raising the table height about 7”.   Seems just right now.   Those tables are in good shape, I bet they’ll turn out very nicely.  Anyway, it’s home now, shop is rearranged, things are good.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Winegrower said:


> I got this Jet VBS-900 bandsaw home last night, after a bit of a struggle.   The seller loaded it on my rental tilt trailer by hanging it from a chain on the forks, using the hook eye on the saw.   It hangs perfectly level from the hook, making things easy.   I have some 3” web straps and ratchets that are excellent hold downs, and we sat the saw directly on the trailer bed, no pallet, and strapped it down.  This worked fine, it rode well, and my hoist was just tall enough to slide its feet under the trailer.  Working the saw back on the trailer and modulating the tilt with the adjusting screw, we could lift the saw enough to clear the trailer bed and roll it away.   Trouble is then, the saw is too wide to sit down through the legs of the hoist, so I kludged up some supports and lowered the saw on to them and extracted the hoist.
> 
> Some surprises were encountered, of course.  It was not hooked up as promised, so I had to wait while the seller folks figured a way to get 3 phase.  In the meantime I pawed through the grime to get to the motor nameplate…it was a Leeson, but only 1/3 HP.   I don’t know the original hp, but today I found and bought a 1.5 hp replacement.   Finally the saw powered up, and another surprise, it was quiet, smooth, the Reeves variable speed was perfect, and there is a 4 speed transmission that can be shifted on the fly.   The welder seemed dead and the grinder motor shaft was bent, so a price adjust covered that.   It can use a new blade, the air pump belt is missing and seems suspicious.  Not sure how important that is.   Today I made some better supports, raising the table height about 7”.   Seems just right now.   Those tables are in good shape, I bet they’ll turn out very nicely.  Anyway, it’s home now, shop is rearranged, things are good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 395737


That is a really sweet looking unit. Congrats


----------



## woodchucker

get that air pump working. You'll be glad you have it working. if it doesn't work, take it apart and work on it.

why did it only have a 1/3 hp motor? did they change it out? seems totally useless for a saw that size.

edit: seems like it had a 2hp motor originally.


----------



## Winegrower

woodchucker said:


> why did it only have a 1/3 hp motor? did they change it out? seems totally useless for a saw that size.



Completely agree.   I can’t imagine that a Leeson motor was standard equipment in 1979’s Taiwan.   It must have been changed.   It’s also a slower speed, 1100 something.   Could that be standard?   The good news is the tables give surface speed in meters per minute, so I will probably never know.    I also don’t have any info about the specs when this unit was made, possibly 2HP was a midlife upgrade.

The motor and drive are quite accessible, so changing to this 1.5 hp unit I ordered today will be easy, and there is plenty of room to go bigger if this isn’t enough.   I want to run the mill, lathe, horizontal saw and this vertical saw from the same static phase converter, which is 1 to 3 HP rated.

And yes, either the air pump has to work or I put a local regulator on shop air…can’t decide yet.

I think this is going to be a great addition.


----------



## DAM 79

NCjeeper said:


> Well I bought this hobby lathe a few weeks ago. I had not had a chance to get it into the shop until today.
> View attachment 395332
> 
> View attachment 395333


Nice !!!! That gives you some more capacity to do some bigger work I can’t wait to see it in action !! That’s chuck looks like the same one that came with me big Monarch very heavy


----------



## woodchucker

francist said:


> Thats the first thing I did with mine. This one is really basic and I’m confident you’ll come up with something g more refined, but it does work and is a lot more stable. Pro Tip: make sure you take off the clear lens cap if yours came with one. Clarity of images is much improved without trying to view through it!
> 
> -frank
> 
> View attachment 395677


Francist, I like the clamp you made. How did you saw it?  Did you have to go from both sides to do that?


----------



## francist

Thanks, @woodchucker, I slit it with my old friend the hacksaw 

This was shortly after these inexpensive microscopes hit the market (10 years ago, maybe?) and I had only had my lathe for a short time. No milling machine at all yet so hacksaw was the order of the day, and I just sawed straight in from the one end. It works okay, the grip is petty positive and is not prone to slipping which is what I was really after.

-frank


----------



## woodchucker

francist said:


> Thanks, @woodchucker, I slit it with my old friend the hacksaw
> 
> This was shortly after these inexpensive microscopes hit the market (10 years ago, maybe?) and I had only had my lathe for a short time. No milling machine at all yet so hacksaw was the order of the day, and I just sawed straight in from the one end. It works okay, the grip is petty positive and is not prone to slipping which is what I was really after.
> 
> -frank
> 
> View attachment 395849


ah, I didn't see the slit from the end. I thought you slit from the middle only  I would like to use that idea for continuing to upgrade my mill stops.. and it looked like a good thing to try. I'm going to try a bunch of different solutions that I haven't done before just to do them.  Thank you.


----------



## T Bredehoft

It came in the mail today....
When I worked in wooden boats (Matthews) back in the '60s, I had the opportunity to use a plug cutter to make mahogany plugs to cover/conceal screws in work-work. You drill a hole (3/8 dia.) drill a pilot hole in it for a screw, insert screw, smear some glue in the hole and drive in a 3/8 plug, with the grain going the same way as the wood you're installing. Glue sets, you chisel off the top of the plug and sand it flush. No screw holes show, unless you look really close. 

I'd never seen a plug cutter  for sale until last week one turned up on Ebay. Brand new in original box from the 1930s.   It works a treat. Now I can use screws to hold things together that  I had to do otherwise. I'm pleased as punch.


----------



## ahazi

T Bredehoft said:


> It came in the mail today....
> When I worked in wooden boats (Matthews) back in the '60s, I had the opportunity to use a plug cutter to make mahogany plugs to cover/conceal screws in work-work. You drill a hole (3/8 dia.) drill a pilot hole in it for a screw, insert screw, smear some glue in the hole and drive in a 3/8 plug, with the grain going the same way as the wood you're installing. Glue sets, you chisel off the top of the plug and sand it flush. No screw holes show, unless you look really close.
> 
> I'd never seen a plug cutter  for sale until last week one turned up on Ebay. Brand new in original box from the 1930s.   It works a treat. Now I can use screws to hold things together that  I had to do otherwise. I'm pleased as punch.


Picture?


----------



## WobblyHand

Just received a Yost 5" vise ADI-5.  It is passable, however there are some things that annoy me.  But after looking at my other vise, a 4-1/2" Sheffield, I guess most vises are made a little sloppy.

Had to align the main jaws, they were off by 1 mm.  Pretty easy.  PIpe jaws were misaligned more.  Not that easy to align, since there's no features on the vise to align the jaws, took about 3 tries to get somewhat close.  What really bugs me is the totally sloppy fit of the main handle.  The hole measures 16.08 mm, the handle measures 14.83 mm.  That's a 1.25 mm slop.  What the heck?  14.83 mm, what is that?  Doesn't correspond to anything metric or imperial.  The handle doesn't have a decent finish, it looks like raw metal stock.  The locking screw handles have about a 1 mm slop between the shaft and the hole as well.

I know I can replace the handles and make it nicer.  Have a 5/8" piece of stress proof that is a perfect fit.  Just wanted was a replacement vise for the garage.  It will serve in that capacity.  Even so, feel a little disappointed with this buy.  Sure didn't exceed expectations.


----------



## woodchucker

My Chas Parker (Charles Parker 1902) is so tight, no slop, the jaws will still grab rolling paper and not let is slip anywhere.
It's beautiful


----------



## Brento

Today i got in my Wahlstrom automatic drill chuck. Has a capacity of 1/32-1/2. Looking forward to using this when i do alot of drilling operations.


----------



## Shootymacshootface

I have been good so far this year, and have been working a ton of hours with the crappy New England weather. The bottom box was the flagship box (72") at Harbor Freight until they brought in the Icon stuff. I wanted a hutch type of top box to keep it from getting too tall. I came home from Lowes with a red Craftsman box. The first thing that I noticed was that the red Craftsman toolboxes look almost orange next to the red Harbor Freight toolbox. The second thing that I noticed was the left front corner was dented so badly that it interfered with the drawers. So, back I went to see the rude, or perhaps lacking any social skills, kid at the service desk. I got a black top box because black goes with everything. This replaced my overloaded Craftsman box that I bought in 1988.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Shootymacshootface said:


> I have been good so far this year, and have been working a ton of hours with the crappy New England weather. The bottom box was the flagship box (72") at Harbor Freight until they brought in the Icon stuff. I wanted a hutch type of top box to keep it from getting too tall. I came home from Lowes with a red Craftsman box. The first thing that I noticed was that the red Craftsman toolboxes look almost orange next to the red Harbor Freight toolbox. The second thing that I noticed was the left front corner was dented so badly that it interfered with the drawers. So, back I went to see the rude, or perhaps lacking any social skills, kid at the service desk. I got a black top box because black goes with everything. This replaced my overloaded Craftsman box that I bought in 1988.
> View attachment 395889


Nice, I need to get another cabinet and maybe a top box. I have run out of room in my current cabinet and now many of my tools are stacking up or in tool bags. Can't believe how much the US General cabinets have gone up in the last year or so. Almost $100 and some more. I missed the last sale but will keep my eyes open.


----------



## 7milesup

I have a US General Pro from a number of years ago (7+ ?).   I recently purchased a complete US General set for the company,  both *the bottom* and *the top* units.  I will have to say that the quality has gone up considerably from my US General Pro of a few years ago.  The new ones are deeper and the fit and finish are very good.  The only thing missing in my opinion is self-close drawers.  
The blue ones are sold out at the moment, but I am seriously considering selling my old one (at a price that equals what I probably paid for it) and purchasing this new series.


----------



## woodchucker

Papa Charlie said:


> Nice, I need to get another cabinet and maybe a top box. I have run out of room in my current cabinet and now many of my tools are stacking up or in tool bags. Can't believe how much the US General cabinets have gone up in the last year or so. Almost $100 and some more. I missed the last sale but will keep my eyes open.


I remember when for $350 on a coupon or sale you could get both top and bottom. now you can only get the bottom or top.
I bought one of their US General black crinkle cut paint 11 draw units for $84..  It was a no brainer. And works well. No ball bearing, but I didn't need that for a 26 inch cabinet.  I wanted the ball bearings for the shop and my son, but they have priced themselves out for me currently. So I picked up Kennedy lowers 2, used (branded Dayton) but Kennedy for sure..


----------



## 7milesup

Just an FYI that HF did away with their 20% off everything coupon.


----------



## Shootymacshootface

Not considering what they costed in the past, still compared to Snap-on or Mac, this box is 1/3 of the cost and does accomplish everything that I need it to. What I needed were drawers with roller bearings and my own work surface with a vise. There is a sheet of 3/16 hot rolled on the entire top of the bottom box. The vise pedestal is 3/4" thick and plug welded to the sheet steel from underneath. Sharing tools and workspace with others was making me (more) crazy. Now I have to buy more tools to fill it up.


----------



## Navy Chief

Just picked up a US General 26 inch cabinet, top box, and the 14 inch wide side hanger yesterday. For the money you can't beat them, they are solid and well made. Now onto the process of transferring and reorganizing everything from the old boxes.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## wachuko

Thanks to this thread:  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/thre...achine-stubby-drills.98090/page-3#post-924494

Ordered a Vevor Three Pieces Drill Bit Dispenser Organizer Cabinet 1/16"-1/2" A-z #1-60...  To store all the drill bits I have in a box...  it is time to get more organized...


----------



## ahazi

wachuko said:


> Thanks to this thread:  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/thre...achine-stubby-drills.98090/page-3#post-924494
> 
> Ordered a Vevor Three Pieces Drill Bit Dispenser Organizer Cabinet 1/16"-1/2" A-z #1-60...  To store all the drill bits I have in a box...  it is time to get more organized...
> 
> View attachment 395965


Is this a one piece unit or 3 separate frames connected together? 

From the picture it looks better built than the original product from Huot which I have one. It works but not best quality.

Ariel


----------



## BROCKWOOD

ahazi said:


> Is this a one piece unit or 3 separate frames connected together?
> 
> From the picture it looks better built than the original product from Huot which I have one. It works but not best quality.
> 
> Ariel


3 stackables


----------



## wachuko

ahazi said:


> Is this a one piece unit or 3 separate frames connected together?
> 
> From the picture it looks better built than the original product from Huot which I have one. It works but not best quality.
> 
> Ariel


Three pieces... in the reviews folks mentioned using double face tape to keep them together, or bolting them together...   But these are three separate cabinets.


----------



## ahazi

wachuko said:


> Three pieces... in the reviews folks mentioned using double face tape to keep them together, or bolting them together...   But these are three separate cabinets.


Thanks! It actually gives more flexibility.


----------



## wachuko

Ordered the following:

Noga RC2200 reversible deburring tool - Large size 10-22mm
Noga RC2000 reversible deburring tool -  Medium size - 5-10mm
The other size was not available... so waiting for the Noga RC1000 - Small - 3-5.5mm  to be back in stock or I will get it from another vendor




Noga MG71003 Magnetic base with universal swivel clamp - 176lbs holding power with 10.9" arm - I have several cheap ones... I read and see videos where folks speak highly of these, so I wanted to at least try one...




Wanted to try this one... Mighty Mag 400-3 universal magnetic base with quick release... not sure if it is any good, but not a huge risk for less than 20.00


----------



## Papa Charlie

wachuko said:


> Thanks to this thread:  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/thre...achine-stubby-drills.98090/page-3#post-924494
> 
> Ordered a Vevor Three Pieces Drill Bit Dispenser Organizer Cabinet 1/16"-1/2" A-z #1-60...  To store all the drill bits I have in a box...  it is time to get more organized...
> 
> View attachment 395965


I have been looking at these, the price just seemed to be too good to be true.


----------



## wachuko

Papa Charlie said:


> I have been looking at these, the price just seemed to be too good to be true.


Yes... I had the same feeling as well... we will see... I will take photos and report back once they arrive.


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> Thanks to this thread:  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/thre...achine-stubby-drills.98090/page-3#post-924494
> 
> Ordered a Vevor Three Pieces Drill Bit Dispenser Organizer Cabinet 1/16"-1/2" A-z #1-60...  To store all the drill bits I have in a box...  it is time to get more organized...
> 
> View attachment 395965


i want to know your impressions when you get it.. thanks


----------



## jwmay

I bought this stuff today. There's alot more rust than what I noticed when I was reaching for my wallet. But it was neat to actually find some things. I have no real need for a bunch of Morse drill bits, but I've been wanting them for a while. I had that exact grinder in my watchlist. And the surface gauge is another item I could have done without. I blame lack of sleep. But 50 bucks all in. Good enough!


----------



## Kevin T

Got my first digital caliper. I "could" have survived without it but I've had the itch a few times and went for it. I've been using my trusty analog Mitutoyo since 1985.


----------



## 682bear

There is an 'antique store' near me that my wife browses through occasionally... I've never been there until this morning, she talked me into going.

It turned out to be an interesting place... and I actually bought something... a grocer's scale...







It is in very nice condition... I'm wondering how old it is, is there any way to tell?

-Bear


----------



## erikmannie

Apparently I am back to buying stuff from mainland China.

10” MT5 bullnose live center as well as the extension socket to be able use this live center in my MT4 tailstock.

This MT5 bullnose live center is barely going to clear the cross slide on my 16” swing lathe.

I will have to sell pipe welding coupons in order to recoup my investment here. I live in the Bay Area; I want to sell you pipe welding coupons.


----------



## woodchucker

Erik, after all that about being in debt to 70k? Do you have a real need for a bull nose that big. Do you realize you can take a regular center and make a bull nose attachment.. after all you are not doing .001 precision with a pipe.


----------



## JRaut

@erikmannie:
"I will have to sell pipe welding coupons in order to recoup my investment here."


You plan on selling pipe welding coupons?

Like these ones? Seems to me that $45 price tag hardly even covers the cost of steel.

It's going to take about 100 years to make back that $1000, let alone the other $70k...


----------



## Papa Charlie

682bear said:


> There is an 'antique store' near me that my wife browses through occasionally... I've never been there until this morning, she talked me into going.
> 
> It turned out to be an interesting place... and I actually bought something... a grocer's scale...
> 
> View attachment 396106
> 
> 
> View attachment 396107
> 
> 
> It is in very nice condition... I'm wondering how old it is, is there any way to tell?
> 
> -Bear


My parents owned a small grocery store on the Oregon Coast when I was young, we had a butcher shop and I used that exact scale model to weight out meats for our customers before the State required us to enclose and refrigerate the meat cutting area. That ended the fresh meat and everything went to prepackaged meats. 
I can remember we use to have two or three sides of beef in the walk in aging from some of the local dairy farmers. Dad would let them hang for at least 6 weeks before butchering. Farmers use to complain that he wasn't getting it done fast enough until they got their first delivery. After that they asked if they could hang it longer. Meat was so tender and tasted almost sweet. I don't care what cut it was. 
Good days.


----------



## 7milesup

I remember those scales at the local butcher shop too.


----------



## francist

I looked them (the scale) up and as far as I could see it was a Hobart 650. There seem to be quite a few around but other than guessing by the fonts used for the sign I couldn’t get a confirmation of age. @Ulma Doctor may have a better idea as I’m sure he’s run into tons of them in his work.


----------



## WobblyHand

Received a small rotary table, a Vertex HV-6.  Got it from Eisen Machinery.  It's about the right size for my small mill.  Seems very well made, and surprisingly heavy for it's size.


Need to make some tee-nuts.  Also need to make or buy some kind of a fixture plate.


----------



## Janderso

7milesup said:


> Just an FYI that HF did away with their 20% off everything coupon.


Say it ain’t so…..


----------



## Janderso

WobblyHand said:


> Received a small rotary table, a Vertex HV-6.  Got it from Eisen Machinery.  It's about the right size for my small mill.  Seems very well made, and surprisingly heavy for it's size.
> View attachment 396451
> 
> Need to make some tee-nuts.  Also need to make or buy some kind of a fixture plate.


That’s a great score!


----------



## snoopdog

pick it up this weekend, woohoo!


----------



## Just for fun

I bought my wife a new table...... An All Industrial 8" Rotary table.


----------



## 7milesup

Janderso said:


> Say it ain’t so…..


Yep, afraid so.  They still have their coupons on whatever happens to be the "tool du jour" of the week or month, but their blanket "20%" off the entire store has been gone for a while now.  Also, their monthly sales catalog has been discontinued.


----------



## 7milesup

Just for fun said:


> I bought my wife a new table...... An All Industrial 8" Rotary table.
> 
> View attachment 396477





WobblyHand said:


> Received a small rotary table, a Vertex HV-6.  Got it from Eisen Machinery.  It's about the right size for my small mill.  Seems very well made, and surprisingly heavy for it's size.
> View attachment 396451
> 
> Need to make some tee-nuts.  Also need to make or buy some kind of a fixture plate.



Wow, two guys in a row getting rotary tables.  Hmmmm, must be something in the water around here.


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> Received a small rotary table, a Vertex HV-6.  Got it from Eisen Machinery.  It's about the right size for my small mill.  Seems very well made, and surprisingly heavy for it's size.
> View attachment 396451
> 
> Need to make some tee-nuts.  Also need to make or buy some kind of a fixture plate.


make your own... why buy? it's easy. I did it with a drill press before I had a mill. Made it for my lathes milling attachment.


----------



## erikmannie

woodchucker said:


> Erik, after all that about being in debt to 70k? Do you have a real need for a bull nose that big. Do you realize you can take a regular center and make a bull nose attachment.. after all you are not doing .001 precision with a pipe.


We got a much larger than expected tax refund, & I won’t miss a chance to get another tool that I know I will use a lot.

This bull nose center is the only live center that I have ever seen that (1) fits on my lathe & (2) can be used for 8” Schedule 40 pipe.


----------



## Janderso

Just for fun said:


> I bought my wife a new table...... An All Industrial 8" Rotary table.
> 
> View attachment 396477


Very handy


----------



## Ianagos

7milesup said:


> Yep, afraid so. They still have their coupons on whatever happens to be the "tool du jour" of the week or month, but their blanket "20%" off the entire store has been gone for a while now. Also, their monthly sales catalog has been discontinued.



They had a 20% and some people got a 25% off a week or so ago. It was notable because it was off any item but it was single use.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Janderso said:


> Say it ain’t so…..


----------



## wachuko

I got these punches that I wanted to use for marking my tools... I will have to change to my initials instead of my nick name... too long and not good penetration on the metals...


----------



## snoopdog

WobblyHand said:


> Received a small rotary table, a Vertex HV-6.  Got it from Eisen Machinery.  It's about the right size for my small mill.  Seems very well made, and surprisingly heavy for it's size.
> View attachment 396451
> 
> Need to make some tee-nuts.  Also need to make or buy some kind of a fixture plate.


Nice


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> I got these punches that I wanted to use for marking my tools... I will have to change to my initials instead of my nick name... too long and not good penetration on the metals...
> 
> View attachment 396583
> 
> View attachment 396584


You can use a hyrdaulic press or even an arbor press to press it in. The hydraulic for harder stuff. it gives a nice even stamping. I started using it for simple single numbered/lettered dies when I want a good impression. it gives a nice even result.


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> You can use a hyrdaulic press or even an arbor press to press it in. The hydraulic for harder stuff. it gives a nice even stamping. I started using it for simple single numbered/lettered dies when I want a good impression. it gives a nice even result.


I did not even think about doing that!!!  Thank you!!!!


----------



## erikmannie

I am a delivery driver; one of my customers, a widow, wanted to gift me the tap & die collection that belonged to her late husband.

I told her that these were VERY valuable, and she said “OK, bring me $20.” I told her that I would bring her twice that. I kept reminding her that she could get way more money, but she was more interested in finding a good home for the tools. Mission accomplished there.

She said that these are 50 years old. They are all USA made.

Her & her husband designed jewelry. Her & I always talk about metalworking. She is a graduate of a metalworking program at some art school.


----------



## erikmannie

About 2 hours later, a different customer gifted me this book. He is a retired machinist. He enjoyed this book so much that he bought an extra copy to give to a fellow enthusiast.

I had started to buy this book about 6 months ago, but I didn’t buy it because it was very expensive ($65.00).


----------



## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> i want to know your impressions when you get it.. thanks





ahazi said:


> Is this a one piece unit or 3 separate frames connected together?
> 
> From the picture it looks better built than the original product from Huot which I have one. It works but not best quality.
> 
> Ariel





Papa Charlie said:


> I have been looking at these, the price just seemed to be too good to be true.



Received these today.  Must say, pleasantly surprised.  These are heavy... bearing slides... the gray epoxy finish looks to be thick.   That is a relief... I thought these would be total flimsy carp...

Photos:

Well packaged...







One box (the one above) has all smaller slides...

The other two are the same.  With two rows of wider and deeper sections...



The finish makes it so that you need some thin double face tape if you are stacking them.  They slide easily when stacked...  Not sure how I will set them up... maybe side by side on a shelf.  Not sure. 




Bearings... I was not expecting to see these... thought it would be metal to metal slides...




So yeah, happy with the purchase/price.  Now to get all the drill bits from the cardboard box and into their proper place.


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> Received these today.  Must say, pleasantly surprised.  These are heavy... bearing slides... the gray epoxy finish looks to be thick.   That is a relief... I thought they would be total flimsy carp...
> 
> Photos:
> 
> Well packaged...
> 
> View attachment 396705
> View attachment 396706
> 
> View attachment 396707
> 
> 
> One box (the one above) has all smaller slides...
> 
> The other two are the same.  With two rows of wider and deeper sections...
> View attachment 396708
> 
> 
> The finish makes it so that you need some thin double face tape if you are stacking them.  They slide easily when stacked...  Not sure how I will set them up... maybe side by side on a shelf.  Not sure.
> 
> View attachment 396709
> 
> 
> Bearings... I was not expecting to see these... thought it would be metal to metal slides...
> 
> View attachment 396710
> 
> 
> So yeah, happy with the purchase/price.  Now to get all the drill bits from the cardboard box and into their proper place.






Thanks neighbor for that.. i will indeed have to make an order!


----------



## wachuko

When I initially got my G0704 milling machine, I order an inexpensive 4" vise to go with it.  That vise has been abused by this newbie and it shows many mistakes I made during ownership.  A few months back I decided to get another one... this time it was one with side tabs for securing on the table, the blue one you see in the photo below.... inexpensive vise as it was only 68.00.  Well, I really was not impressed with that one... (wait!? 68.00! and you were not impressed with it... no sh** Sherlock! )




So last week, with the order of those Vevor drill bit cabinets, I ordered a similar vise to the one I had before...  Came in today.  Yeah... much better... Inexpensive as well, less than a 100.00... but so much better than the one I got before... 






I did buy a Kurt DX6 CrossOver Vise - DX6-SD for the Wells-Index milling machine... but did not feel like spending on another one for the G0704... maybe at a later time when the wife is not looking that closely at the expenses...

Anyway, happy with this one.  Just need to color match it


----------



## BGHansen

Couple of recent hand tool pick ups, different sources, same application.  For the life of me I can't find my sets of 1/2" deep drive sockets.  I could have sworn I had circa 1980's vintage Craftsman in 6/12 point in both SAE and metric.  They'll eventually turn up; in the mean time I bought a used Gearratchet Vortex and Harbor Freight set of external drive sockets. 

In case you haven't seen these, the sockets are driven via a special ratchet that drops over the outside of the socket instead of an internal square hole.  The extensions have a through-hole in them also.  I'll use them as deep-well sockets until my real deeps reappear.  Unfortunately, the two sets have different drive set-ups.  The Gearratchet uses an 8-point system, HF uses a (convenient) 3/4" hex.

Bruce


----------



## extropic

@BGHansen 

Well Bruce, you've done it again. I have plenty of the GearWrench stuff but I was unaware of HF option until your explanation.
I recently had an application where an external (hex) drive socket would have been an option to consider. I'll look into the HF now. Thanks.


----------



## BGHansen

extropic said:


> Well Bruce, you've done it again. I have plenty of the GearWrench stuff but I was unaware of HF option until your explanation.
> I recently had an application where an external (hex) drive socket would have been an option to consider. I'll look into the HF now. Thanks.


They aren't a perfect sub for my 1/2" deeps as they only go to 3/4".  But at $22 they are hard to beat.

Bruce


----------



## IamNotImportant

i don't know if i "did well" or not really.. picked up this Mic and level for 100 bucks


----------



## Janderso

BGHansen said:


> Couple of recent hand tool pick ups, different sources, same application.  For the life of me I can't find my sets of 1/2" deep drive sockets.  I could have sworn I had circa 1980's vintage Craftsman in 6/12 point in both SAE and metric.  They'll eventually turn up; in the mean time I bought a used Gearratchet Vortex and Harbor Freight set of external drive sockets.
> 
> In case you haven't seen these, the sockets are driven via a special ratchet that drops over the outside of the socket instead of an internal square hole.  The extensions have a through-hole in them also.  I'll use them as deep-well sockets until my real deeps reappear.  Unfortunately, the two sets have different drive set-ups.  The Gearratchet uses an 8-point system, HF uses a (convenient) 3/4" hex.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> 
> View attachment 396746
> 
> 
> View attachment 396747


Bruce,
I’ve been watching your tooling purchases over the past few years. I would think by now, bricks and mortar would be needed to hold your cache.
It’s no wonder you can’t find those sockets 
All in fun my friend!


----------



## Navy Chief

IamNotImportant said:


> i don't know if i "did well" or not really.. picked up this Mic and level for 100 bucks
> 
> View attachment 396786
> View attachment 396787
> View attachment 396788


I think you did well... Nice find. 

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## IamNotImportant

Navy Chief said:


> I think you did well... Nice find.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


Thanks.. hard to do when you don't always know values.. and plus, finding good things around these parts is slim to none..


----------



## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> i don't know if i "did well" or not really.. picked up this Mic and level for 100 bucks
> 
> View attachment 396786
> View attachment 396787
> View attachment 396788


100.00 for both?  Yup, you did great!


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> 100.00 for both?  Yup, you did great!


yes.. for both.. the mic cleaned up well and didn't take but a min to get it zero'd.. cleaned up the level too.. will take to the local shop and check in on the plate


----------



## extropic

BGHansen said:


> They aren't a perfect sub for my 1/2" deeps as they only go to 3/4".  But at $22 they are hard to beat.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> 
> View attachment 396773



Yes. I looked that HF set up after I read your post. I needed a 15/16" so no good for me.

I have the same (equivalent sizes) set under the Armstrong name. It's got to be 20 or 30 years old and virtually unused. It's in WA and I'm in CA so it was not in the running to solve my current need.

Still glad to know HF has that set.


----------



## Janderso

IamNotImportant said:


> i don't know if i "did well" or not really.. picked up this Mic and level for 100 bucks
> 
> View attachment 396786
> View attachment 396787
> View attachment 396788


You did very well


----------



## IamNotImportant

Janderso said:


> You did very well


Thank you sir, i appreciate that.. wasn't sure.. just made an offer that i would hope that would be good for both of us..


----------



## erikmannie

I bought another one of these 14” X 14” aluminum square carts that I use for lathe chucks.

My shop is getting crowded, but I can always find a 14” X 14” spot.


----------



## IamNotImportant

i am supposed to go look at some more stuff today.. we'll see what i come up with..


----------



## 682bear

Purchased from @mattthemuppet2 's ebay store...

-Bear


----------



## wachuko

Photos are so deceiving... Kurt vise for the Wells-Index arrived... This sucker is massive... At least larger than any vise I have had...


----------



## DAM 79

wachuko said:


> Photos are so deceiving... Kurt vise for the Wells-Index arrived... This sucker is massive... At least larger than any vise I have had...
> 
> View attachment 396870
> 
> 
> View attachment 396871


Very nice !! That’s what I need to break down and get how wide does the jaws open


----------



## mattthemuppet2

that was you? I'm sorry I didn't realise, would have thrown some extra goodies into the box  Glad they arrived safe and sound.


----------



## 682bear

No worries... I'm still stalking your ebay store...

-Bear


----------



## mattthemuppet2

super cool, those were some nice cutters, just waaaay too large for anything I own  Keep watching, I have boxes of this stuff to get through. I'm starting to see the camping gear behind the boxes though, so I must be making some progress!


----------



## Brento

mattthemuppet2 said:


> super cool, those were some nice cutters, just waaaay too large for anything I own  Keep watching, I have boxes of this stuff to get through. I'm starting to see the camping gear behind the boxes though, so I must be making some progress!


Until you get another load lol. Keep an eye out for gear cutters!


----------



## wachuko

DAM 79 said:


> …how wide does the jaws open


This is the DX6 - max jaw opening is 9”


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> This is the DX6 - max jaw opening is 9”


Remember you can move the jaw plates and clamp bigger than that.  Maximum clamp is when the jaws are mounted on the far faces from each other.  Max clamp is 16.842" according to Kurt.


----------



## IamNotImportant

IamNotImportant said:


> i am supposed to go look at some more stuff today.. we'll see what i come up with..


didn't come up with anything.. didn't get to meet


----------



## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> Remember you can move the jaw plates and clamp bigger than that.  Maximum clamp is when the jaws are mounted on the far faces from each other.  Max clamp is 16.842" according to Kurt.


Duh! !!  I forgot about that!!  Thank you for the reminder


----------



## mmcmdl

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Keep watching, I have boxes of this stuff to get through. I'm starting to see the camping gear behind the boxes though, so I must be making some progress!


For some strange reason , I resemble this .   In my case , it's the fishing rods that I'm seeing .


----------



## IamNotImportant

mmcmdl said:


> For some strange reason , I resemble this .   In my case , it's the fishing rods that I'm seeing .


----------



## mickri

I don't know if "buy" is the right word here.  I did have to use some diesel to go get. Not much though as I was on my way to my granddaughter's basketball game and this was only a couple of miles out of my way.  Does that count as buying?  Anyway I saw a CL add for a road kill Rockwell 9" table saw.  Free.  Come and get it.  Sitting in the street.  Needs repair.





A little rusty (platina?) and caked with sawdust.  Cleaned the sawdust out of it.  Well sort of.  And got things moving somewhat of freely.  Seems to work ok.  Ripped a short piece of 2x4 like a hot knife cutting butter.  The only problem is the handwheel to raise and lower the blade is a little chewed up and doesn't fit on it's shaft.  The shaft is chewed up from using a vise grip to turn it.  Kind of ghetto if you ask me.  I can clean up the shaft but what about the handwheel.  I have never had any luck trying to fix plastic.  Looked for a replacement handwheel.  Found one on Fleabay.  $50.  No thanks.  Might have to try to make one.  Another project added to the never ending list.


----------



## woodchucker

mickri said:


> I don't know if "buy" is the right word here.  I did have to use some diesel to go get. Not much though as I was on my way to my granddaughter's basketball game and this was only a couple of miles out of my way.  Does that count as buying?  Anyway I saw a CL add for a road kill Rockwell 9" table saw.  Free.  Come and get it.  Sitting in the street.  Needs repair.
> 
> View attachment 396951
> View attachment 396952
> 
> 
> A little rusty (platina?) and caked with sawdust.  Cleaned the sawdust out of it.  Well sort of.  And got things moving somewhat of freely.  Seems to work ok.  Ripped a short piece of 2x4 like a hot knife cutting butter.  The only problem is the handwheel to raise and lower the blade is a little chewed up and doesn't fit on it's shaft.  The shaft is chewed up from using a vise grip to turn it.  Kind of ghetto if you ask me.  I can clean up the shaft but what about the handwheel.  I have never had any luck trying to fix plastic.  Looked for a replacement handwheel.  Found one on Fleabay.  $50.  No thanks.  Might have to try to make one.  Another project added to the never ending list.


Drill out the hole and put in a new steel bushing. Glue it in with epoxy. Put some straight knurling on it. That should fix it.
Those wings are known to take out knuckles and fingers. Fit some thin masonite (tempered hardboard ) in there. Epoxy them down to the webbing. And you have a nice cast iron table w/out the deadly holes.

Turn it over, take a toothbrush (your wifes of course) and clean the teeth of the gear and worm. Then use teflon lube A liquid that dries. it will lube it and keep the saw dust from sticking.  To cleanup the top, a Random Orbital Sander or palm sander works great at putting a like new finish on the metal. Just turn the paper so it doesn't go up into the filter. unless you have a vac hooked up. the rust chews up the fan and clogs the filter... But a vac sucks it all the way through.


----------



## Gaffer

I ordered this in August before the price of steel sky-rocketed. It was due in December but finally picked her up yesterday. Imago is a class act and they build high-quality trailers. This is their DTK14 Supermax. Overkill maybe but it will get a lot of use and can transport my Kubota and its many implements. 

But there's more! Every couple of weeks, they take their drops to the recycle yard. They gave me about 100 lbs of steel - sheet, angle I-beam, expanded metal, and channel. They said I can come by anytime and take what I want.


----------



## Just for fun

That looks really nice.  I wish I had more of need for a trailer like that.


----------



## mickri

Be kind of hard to get the (ex) wife's tooth brush.  She departed over 20 years ago.  We are still friends.  I did clean the worm and gears with a metal brush.  They were froze up.  Especially the ones to raise and lower the blade.  I will look for the teflon lube.

The handwheel fits over a role pin.  Thinking about getting a longer roll pin and notching the handwheel to fit over the longer pin.

One accessary I am thinking about is to either cut the teeth off of an old blade or make a 9" round disk that I can mount a sandpaper disk to.  I would then have a sanding disk.  Saw one on the Grizzly site when I was looking for a handwheel.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Been watching for an old one like this for some time. Finally one showed up at a decent price, $15. There are numerous newer versions from several sources. I tend to prefer the archaic ones. Something like my father would have used when he was active with contraptioneering. Good ZAMAK castings, no rotting. The steel parts need a little TLC. Otherwise, good shape.


----------



## pontiac428

mickri said:


> Anyway I saw a CL add for a road kill Rockwell 9" table saw.  Free.  Come and get it.  Sitting in the street.  Needs repair.


That saw is nearly identical in construction as my Craftsman saw that is easily 20 years older (no aluminum on the table, older wobbly style fence rails) but otherwise the same.  That info may help you expand your search for parts and information.  Even in its neglected for shape, I keep it because it's been in my family since new.  It runs very smooth, quiet, and needs little care and feeding.  Good luck!


----------



## pontiac428

Arrived today, one miracle courtesy of CCI.  My match season is paid forward and planned deep, but until today I didn't have the boolits to make it.  This was an incredible stroke of luck!


----------



## Navy Chief

pontiac428 said:


> Arrived today, one miracle courtesy of CCI. My match season is paid forward and planned deep, but until today I didn't have the boolits to make it. This was an incredible stroke of luck!
> View attachment 396977


Primers? Damn man those are almost unobtanium....

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## Shootymacshootface

pontiac428 said:


> Arrived today, one miracle courtesy of CCI.  My match season is paid forward and planned deep, but until today I didn't have the boolits to make it.  This was an incredible stroke of luck!
> View attachment 396977


Ok, where did you get these. There will be no USPSA for me this year unless I find some SPP's.


----------



## Shootymacshootface

My new US General / Craftsman tool box is done. I just finished the hat/coat/and extention cord rack. I'll call it a wrap now.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Just for fun said:


> That looks really nice.  I wish I had more of need for a trailer like that.


i have a need.. but the mill comes first


----------



## WobblyHand

Not much today, but more of an amazement that this was so quick.  Bought an MT2 soft arbor and a couple of 3/16" HSS lathe tool bits from Little Machine Shop on Wednesday.  Two days later, today (Friday) I received it.  Just a plain flat rate box.  The MT2 arbor will become locator for my rotary table fixture plate.  Still waiting on the metal plate.  HSS is for a threading bar which I was toying with making.


----------



## Ianagos

pontiac428 said:


> Arrived today, one miracle courtesy of CCI. My match season is paid forward and planned deep, but until today I didn't have the boolits to make it. This was an incredible stroke of luck!
> View attachment 396977



Man how did you get those I’ve been looking. For some for a while but they must be made of gold these days


----------



## wachuko

These arrived today... No wonder the RC2000 was out of stock... that seems to be the perfect size for what I need... 
RC1000 and RC2200 in the photo... AA battery so you have an idea how small the RC1000 is...




I was able to find it with another vendor and still at a fair price (many places have them way overpriced... )


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> These arrived today... No wonder the RC2000 was out of stock... that seems to be the perfect size for what I need...
> RC1000 and RC2200 in the photo... AA battery so you have an idea how small the RC1000 is...
> 
> View attachment 397043
> 
> 
> I was able to find it with another vendor and still at a fair price (many places have them way overpriced... )


I have needed one of those many times. Just not ready to spend on it.  I need  a few other things first.


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> I have needed one of those many times. Just not ready to spend on it.  I need  a few other things first.


I have had these on my Amazon wish list for over 6 months... I am a sucker for cool tools... I just could not resist any longer.  Started searching for a vendor with the lowest price for these.  Lowest I found was from https://allindustrial.com/.   Only issue is that they were also out of the RC2000...

These tools are up there, in terms of cool tools that I wanted, with the Starrett tap wrench...




Crazy, stupid, or silly... I know... but cool tools have always been a soft spot for me...


----------



## WobblyHand

6061 8" diameter plate for my rotary table came in today.  Was quicker than usual delivery by the USPS.  Also received some 1x1 6061, you know, to stuff in the box and make the shipping worthwhile.  Also pictured are the tee-nuts that I had previously made.  I rust blued them today.  Came out well for a first try.  Not showcase or presentation quality, but pretty darned good for the hour effort put into it.


----------



## jwmay

Well it's not a tool. But I bought it today. What will I do with it? Oh boy, I'm not sure. But I bought it. I was thinking grinder stand...Or I could put my mill/drill on it. Decisions, decisions.


----------



## snoopdog

I get the "I suck" award today. actually bought it last weekend, picked it up today. 5 franklins. No threading gear, so if anyone could help me there in some way, I'd appreciate it. And yes, the leveling is temporary, lol.


----------



## woodchucker

snoopdog said:


> I get the "I suck" award today. actually bought it last weekend, picked it up today. 5 franklins. No threading gear, so if anyone could help me there in some way, I'd appreciate it. And yes, the leveling is temporary, lol.


----------



## rdean

I picked this up at a garage sale yesterday for cheap so took a chance.  









I had a scrap piece of 16 ga steel from a control cabinet that I carefully tried it on.  It glided right through with no effort  and ran fine.
I don't know how old it is but I found this catalog from 1939.






I am very happy

Ray


----------



## Navy Chief

jwmay said:


> Well it's not a tool. But I bought it today. What will I do with it? Oh boy, I'm not sure. But I bought it. I was thinking grinder stand...Or I could put my mill/drill on it. Decisions, decisions.


nice looking stand.


----------



## FOMOGO

I picked up this Tapmatic I/2" piece on ebay. Came with out collets. Was wondering if anyone else has the same unit, and if it uses er 20 collets, and which sizes you need for taps? Thanks, Mike


----------



## snoopdog

rdean said:


> I picked this up at a garage sale yesterday for cheap so took a chance.
> View attachment 397240
> 
> 
> View attachment 397241
> 
> 
> View attachment 397242
> 
> 
> I had a scrap piece of 16 ga steel from a control cabinet that I carefully tried it on.  It glided right through with no effort  and ran fine.
> I don't know how old it is but I found this catalog from 1939.
> View attachment 397243
> 
> 
> View attachment 397244
> 
> 
> I am very happy
> 
> Ray


Love those , american made to last, feel good in the hand, solid.


----------



## WobblyHand

Received a P4 blade today along with a loaner 3/4" threading bar.  These are for my backplate project.  Thank you @mmcmdl !!!!!



Too bad one of the threading gear shafts broke on my G0752Z/G0602 lathe   The funky square headed one with the ball oiler.  Part is already on order.  I'll be back in business within a week.


----------



## mmcmdl

Good to hear . ( not what broke ) Pics when the backplate is done , or it didn't happen !


----------



## Winegrower

FOMOGO said:


> I picked up this Tapmatic I/2" piece on ebay. Came with out collets. Was wondering if anyone else has the same unit, and if it uses er 20 collets, and which sizes you need for taps? Thanks, Mike



I have a Procunier...that has custom collets and every tap size needs a different collet.    However, it's possible to make them without too much trouble, I've posted about that.

I think you will have to start shopping for a collection of Tapmatic collets.   But, I m not 100% on that.

But a tapping head like this changed my whole attitude about tapping.


----------



## matthewsx

snoopdog said:


> I get the "I suck" award today. actually bought it last weekend, picked it up today. 5 franklins. No threading gear, so if anyone could help me there in some way, I'd appreciate it. And yes, the leveling is temporary, lol.


Is this the gear you’re talking about?









						Something simple but necessary
					

Looking back at my content I see that on July 1 2021 I asked about this gear that was stripped on my lathe and needed replacement.    Well, I bought one from Grizzly that didn't work and ended up getting the right modulus and pressure angle from McMaster-Carr but it needed to be bored and faced...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




I got one from McMaster-Carr and bored it to fit but I’m thinking g of having one 3D printed too. 


I bought my lathe for $850 in worse condition so you definitely do suck.


----------



## snoopdog

matthewsx said:


> Is this the gear you’re talking about?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something simple but necessary
> 
> 
> Looking back at my content I see that on July 1 2021 I asked about this gear that was stripped on my lathe and needed replacement.    Well, I bought one from Grizzly that didn't work and ended up getting the right modulus and pressure angle from McMaster-Carr but it needed to be bored and faced...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hobby-machinist.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got one from McMaster-Carr and bored it to fit but I’m thinking g of having one 3D printed too.
> 
> 
> I bought my lathe for $850 in worse condition so you definitely do suck.


I have some investigating to do, I actually think the guy was mistaken when he told me that I needed the gear, and that was what my post was based on, originally. After fooling with it , I'm not so sure, but its gonna be the weekend before I know, gotta go to georgia and deliver a load tomorrow. Probbly won't get back until thursday evening.


----------



## WobblyHand

Finally, almost two months after ordering, my Aloris AXA-4D split boring bar holder arrived!  It is strangely anti-climactic.  Was kept completely in the dark as to when I might get it.  Yesterday, got a notification from UPS that it would be delivered today.  Today it showed up.  You'd think they'd at least put in a card saying, sorry for the wait, but the only thing in the box was the holder.



Glad that Aloris finally got their production problems under control.  Also glad, that I stayed the course.  I had ordered from a supplier around Thanksgiving.  Cancelled after 30 days, and placed and order with a different supplier on December 24, 2021.  Delivered on February 22, 2022. Got to check the dovetails for fit, not expecting a problem, but you know how it is when one looks at things with a machinist's eye.  Already spotted a blemish of sorts, but it won't affect function in the slightest.


----------



## Dhal22

A few eBay items.   I like the under priced buy it now items.   Gone before anyone else finds them.


----------



## matthewsx

Wanted a small rotary table for my small mill. Put an offer in on a different one and the seller rejected, right afterwards this one I’d been looking at dropped price so I went for it.

Didn’t want to be disappointed by made in India so I paid a little more but I think it’ll be worth it once I get it cleaned up, lubed and mounted on an angle plate for horizontal operation. Also came with the cutest little vise.









John


----------



## Navy Chief

This arrived from a recent E-Bay acquisition, no makers mark on it aside from the chuck but it looks and functions identical to the Royal Accu-Drill, with the spring loaded sensitive feed this will be usable in the mill and the lathe when I need to drill small holes. Have not tried it out yet though....


----------



## 682bear

Some 'junk' mysteriously appeared in my truck at work this morning...




A Darex M2...




A Darex M5...




And a box of accessories...




Both grinders run good... everything is very dirty, with some rust... I'll have to spend some time cleaning it all up and see if I can figure out how to use it. I've downloaded the manuals from vintagemachinery already...

-Bear


----------



## mmcmdl

Navy Chief said:


> This arrived from a recent E-Bay acquisition, no makers mark on it aside from the chuck but it looks and functions identical to the Royal Accu-Drill, with the spring loaded sensitive feed this will be usable in the mill and the lathe when I need to drill small holes. Have not tried it out yet though....


Nice chuck , you won't be disappointed with it .


----------



## woodchucker

682bear said:


> Some 'junk' mysteriously appeared in my truck at work this morning...
> 
> View attachment 397712
> 
> 
> A Darex M2...
> 
> View attachment 397713
> 
> 
> A Darex M5...
> 
> View attachment 397714
> 
> 
> And a box of accessories...
> 
> View attachment 397715
> 
> 
> Both grinders run good... everything is very dirty, with some rust... I'll have to spend some time cleaning it all up and see if I can figure out how to use it. I've downloaded the manuals from vintagemachinery already...
> 
> -Bear


----------



## Winegrower

I've posted about my Jet VBS-900 bandsaw, attaching another photo because I think it's such a cool machine...but somebody had replaced the factory motor with a 1/3HP Leeson...and my phase converter is a 1HP to 3HP model.   I learned awhile ago with my B%S #2 surface grinder that these specs really matter, and you can't expect to drive a lower HP motor with a higher rated phase converter.   Who knew?

So I bought a "new" 1.5HP motor on eBay, made an offer, he countered, I accepted, and then fun began.   He said he couldn't ship it because his printer was broken and his neighbor who had a printer was away, and his girlfriend or such had a crisis 1000 miles away and he had to drive there but he had the motor in his truck and he would stop along the way and ship it...but that never happened, eventually he returned and shipped it.
It was lost in transit for almost a week, tracing was stuck without updates.   But, surprise, it came yesterday.   And what a surprise.   The guy had put it in a cardboard box, crumpled a few newspapers around it, put a piece of foam over the extra long shaft, which was not doing anything for protection, and mailed it.    Of course it arrived damaged...all the studs on the end plate were bent over, the base was bent, and it wasn't new, there were setscrew rings in the shaft and bolt/washer marks on the mounting plate.   So I'm sending it back.

And I bought a new Baldor 2HP motor.   They said, anyway.       I just have to wait longer.    My partner said "well, what do you need the bandsaw for"?  I said "umm...umm...well, lots of things".    So I guess the world is not ending, just yet.   But look at the pictures, see what you think.


----------



## woodchucker

Got this at the flea market today. Almost lost it to a group of guys that were eyeing it over when I came back. They didn't buy it, so I was able to come in lower. The case is solid wood, appears to be oak. No front lid, but it wouldn't fit with the knobs. Either the knobs were replaced or this was home built and the front was not properly planned for. Most makers including Gerstner do not use solid wood for the carcass. Wood expands and contracts, so it is possible it's a home built unit. It's very well built.  Inside the top are 2 pieces that don't match the rest of the wood. The lift out larger tray is MDF with a veneer, and the inner is wood..  I did steal this thing. We went out just to get out with my dog... He liked our lunch  

Not sure if I am going to keep it, or give it to my son... if I keep it, I'll give one of my Kennedy boxes to my son. The drawers are less than the Kennedy's, and deeper.


----------



## Nogoingback

Is the dog admiring the box as well?  Nice score.


----------



## woodchucker

Nogoingback said:


> Is the dog admiring the box as well?  Nice score.


He couldn't care less. But I like sneaking pics of him in.. I think he is beautiful.


----------



## Navy Chief

woodchucker said:


> Got this at the flea market today. Almost lost it to a group of guys that were eyeing it over when I came back. They didn't buy it, so I was able to come in lower. The case is solid wood, appears to be oak. No front lid, but it wouldn't fit with the knobs. Either the knobs were replaced or this was home built and the front was not properly planned for. Most makers including Gerstner do not use solid wood for the carcass. Wood expands and contracts, so it is possible it's a home built unit. It's very well built. Inside the top are 2 pieces that don't match the rest of the wood. The lift out larger tray is MDF with a veneer, and the inner is wood.. I did steal this thing. We went out just to get out with my dog... He liked our lunch
> 
> Not sure if I am going to keep it, or give it to my son... if I keep it, I'll give one of my Kennedy boxes to my son. The drawers are less than the Kennedy's, and deeper.
> View attachment 397766
> View attachment 397767
> View attachment 397768
> View attachment 397769
> View attachment 397770
> View attachment 397771
> View attachment 397772
> View attachment 397773
> View attachment 397774
> View attachment 397775
> View attachment 397776
> View attachment 397777


Good find, that is a good looking box.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## woodchucker

woodchucker said:


> Got this at the flea market today. Almost lost it to a group of guys that were eyeing it over when I came back. They didn't buy it, so I was able to come in lower. The case is solid wood, appears to be oak. No front lid, but it wouldn't fit with the knobs. Either the knobs were replaced or this was home built and the front was not properly planned for. Most makers including Gerstner do not use solid wood for the carcass. Wood expands and contracts, so it is possible it's a home built unit. It's very well built.  Inside the top are 2 pieces that don't match the rest of the wood. The lift out larger tray is MDF with a veneer, and the inner is wood..  I did steal this thing. We went out just to get out with my dog... He liked our lunch
> 
> Not sure if I am going to keep it, or give it to my son... if I keep it, I'll give one of my Kennedy boxes to my son. The drawers are less than the Kennedy's, and deeper.
> View attachment 397766
> View attachment 397767
> View attachment 397768
> View attachment 397769
> View attachment 397770
> View attachment 397771
> View attachment 397772
> View attachment 397773
> View attachment 397774
> View attachment 397775
> View attachment 397776
> View attachment 397777


Upon further inspection, it appears to be multiple species of wood. Some red oak, (open pored grain), and the sides appear to be more ash (more closed pored),


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> Upon further inspection, it appears to be multiple species of wood. Some red oak, (open pored grain), and the sides appear to be more ash (more closed pored),


One of my rifle stocks is a beautiful mix of Maple, Walnut and Purple Heart..


----------



## woodchucker

IamNotImportant said:


> One of my rifle stocks is a beautiful mix of Maple, Walnut and Purple Heart..


Pics?   Is the  purple heart purple, or did it turn brown?


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> Pics?   Is the  purple heart purple, or did it turn brown?


it's purple


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> Pics?   Is the  purple heart purple, or did it turn brown?


was up long enough..


----------



## mmcmdl

woodchucker said:


> Some red oak, (open pored grain), and the sides appear to be more ash (more closed pored),


You know , you just can't beat a good piece of ash chucker .


----------



## woodchucker

figured out that this never had a front door/panel. It probably only had a middle bar, that locked the draws in. That would make more sense since the knobs would not allow it to have a front panel.


----------



## 7milesup

wachuko said:


> These arrived today... No wonder the RC2000 was out of stock... that seems to be the perfect size for what I need...
> RC1000 and RC2200 in the photo... AA battery so you have an idea how small the RC1000 is...
> 
> View attachment 397043
> 
> 
> I was able to find it with another vendor and still at a fair price (many places have them way overpriced... )


I had no idea that I need one of those.


----------



## 7milesup

682bear said:


> Some 'junk' mysteriously appeared in my truck at work this morning...
> 
> View attachment 397712
> 
> 
> A Darex M2...
> 
> View attachment 397713
> 
> 
> A Darex M5...
> 
> View attachment 397714
> 
> 
> And a box of accessories...
> 
> View attachment 397715
> 
> 
> Both grinders run good... everything is very dirty, with some rust... I'll have to spend some time cleaning it all up and see if I can figure out how to use it. I've downloaded the manuals from vintagemachinery already...
> 
> -Bear


----------



## NCjeeper

Some Aloris DA tooling for my new lathe. Courtesy of Dave.


----------



## mmcmdl

Out of sight and out of my mind !


----------



## IamNotImportant

NCjeeper said:


> View attachment 397987
> 
> Some Aloris DA tooling for my new lathe. Courtesy of Dave.


That's nice.. i will have to find a tool head and tool holders for my lathe, i didn't get one when i picked it up.. i am torn as to which one though.. the AXA style or the Multifix style


----------



## mmcmdl

If you picked up a bigger lathe , I could help you out .


----------



## NCjeeper

DA sized tool post aint no joke.


----------



## IamNotImportant

mmcmdl said:


> If you picked up a bigger lathe , I could help you out .


yeah..i hear ya there now.. But the Emco was at a good price i was told.. so i followed that yellow brick road.. there are going to be lots of stuff i will need for it.. and i still yet will have to get a mill, just still not sure which one..


----------



## IamNotImportant

NCjeeper said:


> DA sized tool post aint no joke.
> View attachment 397988


----------



## NCjeeper

IamNotImportant said:


> That's nice.. i will have to find a tool head and tool holders for my lathe, i didn't get one when i picked it up.. i am torn as to which one though.. the AXA style or the Multifix style


Unless you are planning on turning your tool post to different angles alot, the standard AXA style works just fine. I have one on my 13x40 lathe.


----------



## mmcmdl

That thing bent my Albrecht fine feed chuck arbor just moving it out of a container . BEWARE of the weight !


----------



## IamNotImportant

NCjeeper said:


> DA sized tool post aint no joke.
> View attachment 397988


i believe that if i was to put something like that on the lathe.. i would be like.. "Where did the compound go to!"


----------



## mmcmdl

IamNotImportant said:


> and i still yet will have to get a mill, just still not sure which one..


Have BP .....................................will travel .


----------



## IamNotImportant

NCjeeper said:


> Unless you are planning on turning your tool post to different angles alot, the standard AXA style works just fine. I have one on my 13x40 lathe.


i had actually ponder'd a solid tool post.


----------



## IamNotImportant

mmcmdl said:


> Have BP .....................................will travel .


that's the one i would like to have, but, it would most likely need to be a "steep pulley" with the short motor..


----------



## Christianstark

Got this yesterday. Worlds apart from my Irwin wrench that came with a carbon steel kit at Lowes.


----------



## wachuko

Christianstark said:


> Got this yesterday. Worlds apart from my Irwin wrench that came with a carbon steel kit at Lowes.
> 
> View attachment 397997



Now please tell me that inserting that rod in the hole was not a satisfying experience!!!  The tap wrenches I have used in the past were carp... when I got that one (I got all three sizes as well), man!, the first time I had to use it, the way you can insert and remove the handle is brilliant.... Just felt great.  

I am not one to tempt people... but you really should get one of these (or better yet, all three sizes)...  using it is like caressing a freshly powder coated Brembo caliper for a Porsche... trust me on this... the tactical feel of using these is something else... excuse me, I need a moment alone... will be right back... 




Starrett 174 Tap Wrench
Starrett 91A Tap Wrench
Starrett 91B Tap Wrench


----------



## NCjeeper

^^^
Totally agree. The Starretts are the cat's meow.


----------



## Christianstark

wachuko said:


> using it is like caressing a freshly powder coated Brembo caliper for a Porsche...


Funny. I wound up painting mine, as the car came from Atlantic City and the salt hazed the red powder coating. I wish I had them re-coated, but I painted instead. I was replacing all pads, seals, boots, and rotors so why the hell not?


----------



## Christianstark

The captive spring steel ring in the handle is definitely the good stuff. Handle slides smooth and predictably, instead of the old ball detent 3 position style.


----------



## IamNotImportant

i have not bought it yet, but when i first got the lathe, i was thinking ever since then, that it was a D1-4, well i went to pull the chuck off so that i could clean the inside of the spindle and all! And to my amazement, it is a D1-3! Now I wonder, how many Emco Super 11's have a D1-3 on it? Anywho, what this boils down to, is that i will be needing a ER setup. I would like a 40, the biggest material i would prob hold in the ER collets would a tad over one inch. It is that or i'll have to get a ER collet block and mount it in the 4 jaw on the lathe..

What is your opinion about stuff from HHIP? The have a D1-3 direct mount ER40





__





						125MM DIAMETER, D1-3  ER-40 COLLET CHUCK (3901-5041)
					

<ul><li>125MM Diameter, D1-3 ER-40 Collet Chuck</li><li>Concentricity is .0016".</li><li>125MM diameter (D1).</li><li>Easily mount to a lathe with a D1-3 spindle.</li><li>Use with ER-40 collets.</li><li>D is 54mm.</li><li>L is 42mm.</li><li>Stud diameter




					www.hhip.com


----------



## IamNotImportant

will it help it any if i were to get one of these?


			https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/63080527


----------



## Christianstark

IamNotImportant said:


> i have not bought it yet, but when i first got the lathe, i was thinking ever since then, that it was a D1-4, well i went to pull the chuck off so that i could clean the inside of the spindle and all! And to my amazement, it is a D1-3! Now I wonder, how many Emco Super 11's have a D1-3 on it? Anywho, what this boils down to, is that i will be needing a ER setup. I would like a 40, the biggest material i would prob hold in the ER collets would a tad over one inch. It is that or i'll have to get a ER collet block and mount it in the 4 jaw on the lathe..
> 
> What is your opinion about stuff from HHIP? The have a D1-3 direct mount ER40
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 125MM DIAMETER, D1-3  ER-40 COLLET CHUCK (3901-5041)
> 
> 
> <ul><li>125MM Diameter, D1-3 ER-40 Collet Chuck</li><li>Concentricity is .0016".</li><li>125MM diameter (D1).</li><li>Easily mount to a lathe with a D1-3 spindle.</li><li>Use with ER-40 collets.</li><li>D is 54mm.</li><li>L is 42mm.</li><li>Stud diameter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hhip.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 398056


Are you positive it is D1-3? Did you measure?


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> Now please tell me that inserting that rod in the hole was not a satisfying experience!!!  The tap wrenches I have used in the past were carp... when I got that one (I got all three sizes as well), man!, the first time I had to use it, the way you can insert and remove the handle is brilliant.... Just felt great.
> 
> I am not one to tempt people... but you really should get one of these (or better yet, all three sizes)...  using it is like caressing a freshly powder coated Brembo caliper for a Porsche... trust me on this... the tactical feel of using these is something else... excuse me, I need a moment alone... will be right back...
> 
> View attachment 398049
> 
> 
> Starrett 174 Tap Wrench
> Starrett 91A Tap Wrench
> Starrett 91B Tap Wrench


so you like removing the handle on your T wrench? just out of curiosity, why?


----------



## Christianstark

woodchucker said:


> so you like removing the handle on your T wrench? just out of curiosity, why?


Stores more compact, can use the box. Real benefit for me is it just moves smoother when tapping close to an obstruction.


----------



## Christianstark

IamNotImportant said:


> will it help it any if i were to get one of these?
> 
> 
> https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/63080527


Before I got that. I would look at the PM offering first, as it is a set tru style. That is if you have a D1-4 (also has just 3 cam-locks so measure if you haven’t…) the majority of your run out will be solved with that. Then a bearing style nut would help, but marginally less that of the set tru.

my Chuck runout is less than 1/10th



			https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/er-40-adjustable-collet-chuck-d1-4-mount-copy/


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> so you like removing the handle on your T wrench? just out of curiosity, why?


To store it back in the bag and then in its box... I get the feeling of having a new tool every time I need to use it again


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> To store it back in the bag and then in its box... I get the feeling of having a new tool every time I need to use it again


Ok, I thought there was a usage that I wasn't thinking of. My generals are captured, they don't come out as far as I know. Which is fine. I like them like that.


----------



## woodchucker

Christianstark said:


> Stores more compact, can use the box. Real benefit for me is it just moves smoother when tapping close to an obstruction.


Ok, well the General moves smoothly, it just isn't removable. 
I have seen too many tools at estate sales where the parts are gone.  Including regular tap handles without the threaded piece, which makes them useless. Mine go into the corner of the draw nestled into each other.


----------



## woodchucker

A little comparison with my Kennedy 520 to the new chest I picked up... And a bizarre photo. No trickery, the camera omitted the knob on one drawer, but another pic shows it... WTH.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Christianstark said:


> Are you positive it is D1-3? Did you measure?


i did.. but i measured it wrong.. it is thankfully a d1-4


----------



## Dhal22

Dhal22 said:


> A few eBay items.   I like the under priced buy it now items.   Gone before anyone else finds them.
> 
> View attachment 397640




My Ebay luck continues.  Saw this vise at $300 buy it now and almost pulled the trigger.  Worried that I would miss out but running behind getting my son to a basketball game I decided to let it go.  About the time I settled down in the bleachers I got an alert from the Ebay seller offering $100 off.  3 days later this shows up at my house......................


----------



## Watchwatch

NCjeeper said:


> ^^^
> Totally agree. The Starretts are the cat's meow.



I’ll second that motion. Every time I use my 91B, I smile. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JRaut

Anyone ever seen one of these "Spline" micrometers before?

I just picked it up on a whim. Pretty stoked about it. It should work awesome for the small work that I tend to find myself doing.

Needs a new battery, but is in great condition otherwise.


----------



## NCjeeper

Watchwatch said:


> I’ll second that motion. Every time I use my 91B, I smile.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I used my 91A today.


----------



## jwmay

I like good tools, but you Starrett tap wrench guys are starting to weird me out a little. Haha!


----------



## jwmay

I really had to talk myself into this one. It was $52. That's really above my impulse buy budget, but darn it, it's High Speed steel US made. I sincerely hope I come up with a need for a 1 1/4" hole soon. I'm feeling a bit guilty. Lol


----------



## woodchucker

jwmay said:


> I really had to talk myself into this one. It was $52. That's really above my impulse buy budget, but darn it, it's High Speed steel US made. I sincerely hope I come up with a need for a 1 1/4" hole soon. I'm feeling a bit guilty. Lol


Just a tip.. Don't use that in a keyless chuck... Only keyed..


----------



## Christianstark

woodchucker said:


> Just a tip.. Don't use that in a keyless chuck... Only keyed..


That’s a lot of torque gonna be on that tang.


----------



## Christianstark

jwmay said:


> I like good tools, but you Starrett tap wrench guys are starting to weird me out a little. Haha!


So true!


----------



## FOMOGO

My son is picking up two of these for me in Denver today. Mike


----------



## jwmay

woodchucker said:


> Just a tip.. Don't use that in a keyless chuck... Only keyed..


Thanks! I hadn't considered it, because I don't have a keyless chuck. What about a collet and loose belts?


----------



## mmcmdl

Shouldn't have any issues with the S&D drill as long as the hole is pre-drilled with a smaller hole size . If it's a split point , no issues at all either way .


----------



## jwmay

Thanks!


----------



## woodchucker

jwmay said:


> Thanks! I hadn't considered it, because I don't have a keyless chuck. What about a collet and loose belts?


that's fine. The problem I had was that the chuck tightens on it's own. I worked hard even with a spanner to remove it. It did what it's supposed to, it tightened on, AND IT WOULD NOT LET GO   .. I didn't know ahead, but I read after the warnings. Wish I had seen them before.


----------



## erikmannie

2’ length of 8” Schedule 40 pipe (.322” wall). This was $182.45 out the door.

Half of this is for me: making pipe welding coupons, 6010 root/7018 fill & cap, recycle pipe by cutting out weld bead + HAZ, making (slightly shorter) pipe welding coupons, weld on it, etc. At one point, the pipe coupons will be too short to use as pipe coupons.

The other half is to make 2 pipe coupons to sell. They will be 6” long and sell for $75-80 each. That is, $150-160 for a pair of 6” coupons.


----------



## DAM 79

NCjeeper said:


> DA sized tool post aint no joke.
> View attachment 397988


That’s almost what I got for my 20x54 monarch but I think it would be a little to big


----------



## mmcmdl

The DA was off of my LeBlonde 20" . Either a DA or a CA wouldv'e worked out great .


----------



## Jim F

scored a follow rest for my SB9, $150 shipped.
Pics when it gets here.


----------



## Christianstark

After breaking many small drills, I’m building a sensitive drilling attachment for my lathe.

this cutie came today. Llambrich CY-04-J-0


----------



## erikmannie

I bought 120 cu ft acetylene + 80 cu ft 100% Argon.

The acetylene was $99 out the door (i.e. $85.24 + tax + haz mat fee).

The Argon was $59 out the door (i.e. $49.06 + tax + haz mat fee).

I needed to borrow my friend’s open bed pickup (I drive a minivan), & I gave him $20.


----------



## woodchucker

erikmannie said:


> I bought 120 cu ft acetylene + 80 cu ft 100% Argon.
> 
> The acetylene was $99 out the door (i.e. $85.24 + tax + haz mat fee).
> 
> The Argon was $59 out the door (i.e. $49.06 + tax + haz mat fee.
> 
> View attachment 398476


No oxygen to go with the acetylene ?


----------



## erikmannie

woodchucker said:


> No oxygen to go with the acetylene ?


I have 2 cylinders of oxygen at home.


----------



## wachuko

erikmannie said:


> I bought 120 cu ft acetylene + 80 cu ft 100% Argon.
> 
> The acetylene was $99 out the door (i.e. $85.24 + tax + haz mat fee).
> 
> The Argon was $59 out the door (i.e. $49.06 + tax + haz mat fee).
> 
> I needed to borrow my friend’s open bed pickup (I drive a minivan), & I gave him $20.
> 
> View attachment 398476


100% Argon 59.00!!!  Wow!  I need a tank with 100% Argon for my TIG welder if I ever going to try using it...

Just to be clear, you had the tank and that was just the fill up? Right?  No way that is tank and gas...


----------



## erikmannie

wachuko said:


> 100% Argon 59.00!!!  Wow!  I need a tank with 100% Argon for my TIG welder if I ever going to try using it...
> 
> Just to be clear, you had the tank and that was just the fill up? Right?  No way that is tank and gas...


Yes, I own my cylinders outright.


----------



## woodchucker

erikmannie said:


> Yes, I own my cylinders outright.


interesting, I keep hearing how many places won't fill your own tanks.  Was this a big chain welding gas company?


----------



## erikmannie

woodchucker said:


> interesting, I keep hearing how many places won't fill your own tanks.  Was this a big chain welding gas company?


This was Matheson Tri-Gas in my hometown of Santa Rosa, CA.

I purchased 5 gas cylinders from Matheson. I purchased 2 gas cylinders from Praxair in my hometown.

Matheson is very nice about refilling the gas cylinders that I bought from Praxair. The first time you go back with the Praxair tanks, they just peel off the Praxair sticker.

I stopped going to Praxair because they were they were out of Argon about a third of the time.


----------



## Gaffer

I too own my tanks, but the welding suppliers in my area swap the tanks. They handle all testing and it's worked well for several years now.


----------



## erikmannie

Gaffer said:


> I too own my tanks, but the welding suppliers in my area swap the tanks. They handle all testing and it's worked well for several years now.


It is also a swap here.


----------



## stioc

Stocked up on some round material. I have plenty of 6061 but not in convenient diameters. Also I've never tried drill-rod before so that'll be a new addition.


----------



## woodchucker

Not what I bought, but what I would like to buy.. But alas no money...








						1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1 Fastback With a 427-inch Cammer Engine!
					

Combine one really cool 1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1 with one very rare and badass Ford 427 SOHC Cammer mill, and you end up with a very unique hot rod.




					www.motortrend.com


----------



## Gaffer

She’s a beaut!!!


----------



## NCjeeper

woodchucker said:


> interesting, I keep hearing how many places won't fill your own tanks.  Was this a big chain welding gas company?


I own my bottles and have never had a problem. You just swap them out for filled ones.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought 20 of these parting inserts for my Aloris parting tool (which looks to be having a tough life). These inserts were $8.64 each delivered.

I chose grade A6 carbide “for general purpose steel”, as I am parting mild, carbon steel.

Grade A2 carbide is more for aluminum, & Grade 767 carbide (which is tin-coated) would be for, say 4140 prehard, SS or Ti.


----------



## matthewsx

woodchucker said:


> Not what I bought, but what I would like to buy.. But alas no money...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1 Fastback With a 427-inch Cammer Engine!
> 
> 
> Combine one really cool 1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1 with one very rare and badass Ford 427 SOHC Cammer mill, and you end up with a very unique hot rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.motortrend.com



My auto shop teacher had one of those on a stand in the classroom.


----------



## Larry$

Christianstark said:


> I would look at the PM offering first, as it is a set tru style.


I just ordered one of those. Of course by the time you add in the set of collets, and an ER-40 to R8 adapter it gets rather expensive. PM sells that chuck on eBay with free shipping making it cheaper than buying it directly from PM.


----------



## wachuko

This arrived today... now to finish the drawbar...


----------



## woodchucker

Larry$ said:


> I just ordered one of those. Of course by the time you add in the set of collets, and an ER-40 to R8 adapter it gets rather expensive. PM sells that chuck on eBay with free shipping making it cheaper than buying it directly from PM.


yea, I don't understand that. I just bought some things from both Shars and All Industrial, and direct from them the prices were much higher then shipping made them more expensive, went to EBay and the prices were way lower  and lower shipping.

for example AXA holder from Shars 12.50 for an XL on ebay, 25.50 on Shars website  with another holder and set of new gauge blocks shipping was 15.50 on ebay discount machine;  from Shars, shipping was 25.00... BTW the gauge blocks were discontinued on Shars, and the new ones were way more expensive...

Kool mist from All industrial, price increased on Ebay, they actually flopped the price, it used to be cheaper on Ebay than All industrial, so 50 on ebay, and 40 from All industrial, but the  shipping from All industrial was enormous, and ebay was cheap, making it a no brainer to do ebay.


----------



## Larry$

woodchucker said:


> I don't understand that.


Me either. They have to pay eBay fees and still do all the handling and shipping. If I get any thing branded Shars I first check their cheap eBay seller. I just bought a Cushman ball bearing chuck on eBay that was considerably cheaper than all the other options. Looks really nicely made and smooth as silk. Will be testing it for runout tonight.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Larry$ said:


> I just ordered one of those. Of course by the time you add in the set of collets, and an ER-40 to R8 adapter it gets rather expensive. PM sells that chuck on eBay with free shipping making it cheaper than buying it directly from PM.


Price from PM on evilbay




Price from PM in the Burg!



Shipping is a flat rate of 15.99 so that makes the total 165.98

Looks to me that buying the chuck from the Burg is a better price than buying it from evilbay.


----------



## DAM 79

mmcmdl said:


> If you picked up a bigger lathe , I could help you out .


You wouldn’t happen to have any CA size tool post holders would you ?!


----------



## Gaffer

I’ve wanted this for a while and finally pulled the trigger 12” faceplate for my Colchester. It’s in good shape and the weight surprised me.


----------



## erikmannie

El Cheapo 5C collet block set. $50.04 delivered.


----------



## Doug Gray

^^Next thing is you have to make a wrench^^


----------



## Eyerelief

erikmannie said:


> El Cheapo 5C collet block set. $50.04 delivered.
> 
> View attachment 398912


I too have one of these cheapo sets. I find it  very capable. The only feature that gives me fits is the pin that the draw bar cams from. It slides in and out of position easily. Does just fine when locked down, but during set up it will drive me to picking boogers.


----------



## woodchucker

Eyerelief said:


> I too have one of these cheapo sets. I find it  very capable. The only feature that gives me fits is the pin that the draw bar cams from. It slides in and out of position easily. Does just fine when locked down, but during set up it will drive me to picking boogers.


well why not glue it in with locktite, or epoxy, or CA??? there's an easy way to get rid of frustrations... Fix them.

Like I saw on a truck this past week. The only reason there are big problems, is because no one ever fixed the small problems.


----------



## Eyerelief

woodchucker said:


> well why not glue it in with locktite, or epoxy, or CA??? there's an easy way to get rid of frustrations... Fix them.
> 
> Like I saw on a truck this past week. The only reason there are big problems, is because no one ever fixed the small problems.


That is a good idea, but in doing so, you loose the ability to disassemble.  Even thought about putting a bolt in its place but the nut and head would protrude past the flats on the holder.  The best my pea brain has been able to think of so far is to upset one side of the pin creating an interference fit, but that would likely result in opening up the hole the pin rides in.
Its a competent little tool, just clunky to set up.


----------



## Larry$

I've had one of those sets for a long time. Test it for concentric accuracy with a known good collet. Then grind it true. Mine came in a nice wooden box with the required spanner. These sets are quite handy. I've considered getting an ER-40 set but the big nut sticking out is a drag. Putting parallels around it or making shorter shims might work.


----------



## woodchucker

Eyerelief said:


> That is a good idea, but in doing so, you loose the ability to disassemble.  Even thought about putting a bolt in its place but the nut and head would protrude past the flats on the holder.  The best my pea brain has been able to think of so far is to upset one side of the pin creating an interference fit, but that would likely result in opening up the hole the pin rides in.
> Its a competent little tool, just clunky to set up.


not really, you disassemble the pin by heating it with a torch, and punching it out with a pin punch.
none of them is perm, all break free with heat.


----------



## wachuko

Well, remind me not to read more threads here…









						Clamping the workpiece at an angle on the vice
					

I am wondering if anyone has attempted to make use of this kind of digital angle finder or protractor to quickly set the workpiece at the wanted angle on the vice. I have bought one at a good price ( ~ 8 USD ) and measurement with my DRO-equipped mill indicates that the error is within 0.1...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




Bought a sine bar - Taft Pierce No 9115 5” sine bar…


----------



## Doug Gray

Just wanted to show the wrench I made for my collet block set. The knurled ring was not sufficient to lock the collet so I fabed up this wrench. Pin is from a turned down set screw. Fits nice in the collet set case. Even the short handle allows for plenty of torque to lock the collet.


----------



## BGHansen

wachuko said:


> Well, remind me not to read more threads here…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamping the workpiece at an angle on the vice
> 
> 
> I am wondering if anyone has attempted to make use of this kind of digital angle finder or protractor to quickly set the workpiece at the wanted angle on the vice. I have bought one at a good price ( ~ 8 USD ) and measurement with my DRO-equipped mill indicates that the error is within 0.1...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hobby-machinist.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bought a sine bar - Taft Pierce No 9115 5” sine bar…


Ah, now you're going to need a set of gauge blocks to set up angles with the sine bar!  Yes, it's a slippery slope!  And guess what, there is no bottom to the slippery slope on this hill!

Bruce


----------



## wachuko

BGHansen said:


> Ah, now you're going to need a set of gauge blocks to set up angles with the sine bar!  Yes, it's a slippery slope!  And guess what, there is no bottom to the slippery slope on this hill!
> 
> Bruce
> 
> 
> View attachment 399052


Bruce,

I got a set last July!!


----------



## woodchucker

wow, are we all on the same page now?

These arrived the other day.



I have a question about the certificate. what unit is the deviation in?


----------



## f350ca

Good question ! My set came with probably the same sheet lol. No idea what the units are. Millionths of an inch?

Greg


----------



## alloy

Bought another one of these "head lights" today.  I've been working on my nova and for the last 40 plus years I've been fighting drop lights trying to get the light to stay where I wanted it so I could see what I was working on.   I saw an ad for a light like this and ordered one.  Right now I don't even know where my drop light is.  I automically just grab my "head light" when I walk into the shop no matter what I'm working on.  It's made working on the car much easier now, and on my lathe and mill nicer also.  I bought a second one for when the battery goes dead in about 3 hours.   
	

			https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09MF3YVXV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## extropic

woodchucker said:


> snip
> 
> I have a question about the certificate. what unit is the deviation in?


 Inch sets deviation is in millionths of an inch. I'm not certain about metric sets (microns?).


----------



## woodchucker

I am doubting that my set has proper deviations. Some of the blocks are negative, and I see them as positive.. so I don't match. On others I am right on, or close.  Some show more than they show.  Did they really run these, or do they make them up?  I have some real Johanson blocks, just a few.. They match my mics, and they match their blocks... So I believe my mics are calibrated.  Starrett and Mitutoyo. 
They do not have a certification stamp, but they match and then they don't.


----------



## finsruskw

Snagged this off C/L this afternoon, 30 miles away and $100
Phase-II w/10" table.
Looks like it will clean up nicely w/some Evaporust, wire brush and scotch brite pads.


----------



## wachuko

finsruskw said:


> Snagged this off C/L this afternoon, 30 miles away and $100
> Phase-II w/10" table.
> Looks like it will clean up nicely w/some Evaporust, wire brush and scotch brite pads.


Nice score!!


----------



## BROCKWOOD

Found these 2" end mills on FB Marketplace. Ready to hog some metal now!


----------



## woodchucker

BROCKWOOD said:


> Found these 2" end mills on FB Marketplace. Ready to hog some metal now!
> 
> View attachment 399199


nice, what kind of mill do you have?


----------



## BROCKWOOD

woodchucker. Van Norman 24. It dwarfs my wife LOL


----------



## woodchucker

BROCKWOOD said:


> woodchucker. Van Norman 24. It dwarfs my wife LOL
> 
> View attachment 399201


yea, that will cut...

BTW, I think a BP will dwarf your wife.


----------



## Winegrower

I have an 8” bench grinder and a 4” belt sander, but I wanted a wire wheel and a Scotch Brite deburring wheel.   So the cheapest grinder I could find was a Ryobi 6” from Home Depot for about $50 including shipping.   Wasn’t expecting much. But what came was just fine.  I made a 1” hub for the deburring wheel and a 5/8” to 1/2” bushing for the wire wheel.   The runout and vibration is very low, surprisingly low.   And it’s tiny enough I found some permanent bench space for it.  It’s all metal, came with shields with magnifers molded in, and two kind of goofy battery powered LED lights.   Maybe they mKe sense in some dark corner, but a 6” distance is about all they illuminate.  I ditched all the safety stuff based on personal recognizance.   I use a face shield without fail, though.

Nice to have these wheels instantly available.


----------



## DAM 79

BROCKWOOD said:


> Found these 2" end mills on FB Marketplace. Ready to hog some metal now!
> 
> View attachment 399199


Brockwood you beat me to them lol did you buy them all or does he have more to sell I saw them also on FB market place but totally forgot to message the guy


----------



## BROCKWOOD

DAM 79 said:


> Brockwood you beat me to them lol did you buy them all or does he have more to sell I saw them also on FB market place but totally forgot to message the guy


DAM 79 I bought all he had listed. However, he has invited me to buy more. Ask him!


----------



## brino

finsruskw said:


> Snagged this off C/L this afternoon, 30 miles away and $100
> Phase-II w/10" table.
> Looks like it will clean up nicely w/some Evaporust, wire brush and scotch brite pads.



That's gotta make you the winner of the much coveted.......


Those are currently USD$750 at Travers.
.....and yeah that should clean up to like-new condition.

Congratulations!

Brian


----------



## finsruskw

brino said:


> That's gotta make you the winner of the much coveted.......
> 
> 
> Those are currently USD$750 at Travers.
> .....and yeah that should clean up to like-new condition.
> 
> Congratulations!
> 
> Brian


Thank You! I am truly honored......I think......!


----------



## DAM 79

So this followed me home today . I was little skeptical about it at first when I saw it listed because I could not test it out the owner did not have 3-phase power but said he saw it running before it came to his place I don’t know much about grinders so any info would be great from what I can tell it’s a Brown And Sharpe No.2 everything seems to move freely the spindle turns freely it came with a mag chuck and a bunch of wheels I hope to get it unloaded today and start to clean it up and put power to it sometime next week is there anything important I should know or check first before I do that ??? Thanks


----------



## Bi11Hudson

As usual, I am limited by weight so can't purchase machines like that when I drool over them. But I did acquire a Starrett end nipper that appears new. The removable, sharpenable blades appear as though they just came out of the wrapper. I used it once at my desk and now can't find it. I'm sure it's somewhere close. . . Working on a model and they cut smoother than flush cutters. Not as attention grabbing as a surface grinder but well within my means for usefullness. *EDIT*: Found 'em. Behind a book where I lay my headphones. . .


----------



## DAM 79

Bi11Hudson said:


> As usual, I am limited by weight so can't purchase machines like that when I drool over them. But I did acquire a Starrett end nipper that appears new. The removable, sharpenable blades appear as though they just came out of the wrapper. I used it once at my desk and now can't find it. I'm sure it's somewhere close. . . Working on a model and they cut smoother than flush cutters. Not as attention grabbing as a surface grinder but well within my means for usefullness.
> 
> View attachment 399290


I have seen these before and would love to have a pair because I have heard many good things about them with cutting close and flush to whatever your cutting !! The surface grinder was not something I was looking to get because I already found one from a friend that I’ll get next month but this one was literally right down the road and I got it for a song and dance . I know absolutely nothing about surface grinding but I want to learn and want to add to my shop I will go over this grinder clean it up etc. and see how it runs as the former owner never ran it he doesn’t have 3-phase power . Chances are I may sell it down the road after I get this other one


----------



## Winegrower

DAM 79 said:


> is there anything important I should know


A major issue I encountered with my B&S #2 was trying to drive it from my 1 to 3HP phase converter.   The B&S motor was, I forget, a third or half HP?   The phase converter goes crazy and the motor overheats in this case...had to drop down to an additional smaller converter.

I have to admit, I recall thinking well, if it handles 1 to 3 hp, for sure it will handle something smaller.   Duh.


----------



## DAM 79

So opening up the cabinet door it also came with all this not sure what all the round collars are for yet but I have a bunch as well as stone wheels the mag chuck is 6x18 I can’t wait to get it all cleaned up and see how it works 
Currently I have a 20 Hp American Rotary phase converter set up in my shop


----------



## Shootymacshootface

Wow, you suck!


----------



## DAM 79

Shootymacshootface said:


> Wow, you suck!


Haha am I moving to the top of the You Suck Award lol


----------



## WobblyHand

DAM 79 said:


> Haha am I moving to the top of the You Suck Award lol


You better believe it!  Great haul.  And yeah, 
you suck.


----------



## Navy Chief

Not purchased today, but arrived today. Need to order some materials to make the mounting hardware now. 

Build quality in these looks really good, can't wait to try them out and get away from the four way post on the lathe now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## slodat

Couple of eBay finds- 5C collet blocks and Eagle Rock knurling tool.


----------



## woodchucker

Navy Chief said:


> Not purchased today, but arrived today. Need to order some materials to make the mounting hardware now.
> 
> Build quality in these looks really good, can't wait to try them out and get away from the four way post on the lathe now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


I never noticed that the hold down screws were only 3 across.   I have some stubby tooling that would not reach to the middle screw... But I love those tool holders and QCTP....    enjoy your new awesome QCTP.


----------



## TA Stewart

darkzero said:


> Don't remember if there is an existing thread like this. Many of you guys like to share your scores so let's try a new ongoing thread...
> 
> If your here chances are you love tools & always love to get new ones. This thread is not necessarily for gloating (well maybe) but you can if you want but expect to get a "you suck" compliment!
> 
> So what did you buy for the shop today (or recently)? No tool too small or too big, machines, equipment, inexpensive, expensive, good deal or not, whatever. All that matters is if you'd like to share your latest acquisition that put a smile on your face, post 'em up! And you know the drill, we love to see photos!


I bought 2 new spindle bearings for my Central Machinery 12-36 lathe.  I bought the tight spec Nachi Grade 5 rollers for $100 for the two.  The thing that makes working on the lathe a challenge is the private labeling of this Taiwanese machine.  The same lathe is sold by Grizzly, Jet, Harbor Freight and enco.  However, they all have different features by changing the top half of the headstock.  I have not been able to find documentation or manual that is the same version as mine.  So it's all scratch my head and guess.....too much fun. Terry


----------



## Navy Chief

TA Stewart said:


> I bought 2 new spindle bearings for my Central Machinery 12-36 lathe. I bought the tight spec Nachi Grade 5 rollers for $100 for the two. The thing that makes working on the lathe a challenge is the private labeling of this Taiwanese machine. The same lathe is sold by Grizzly, Jet, Harbor Freight and enco. However, they all have different features by changing the top half of the headstock. I have not been able to find documentation or manual that is the same version as mine. So it's all scratch my head and guess.....too much fun. Terry


I think I have a similar lathe labeled as MSC, 12x24. My manual is almost worthless and there are so many variants that finding information is challenging. 

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## WobblyHand

Nothing exciting, but still a good moment.  Received a pair of round stones to polish the edge of my spindle taper (100 and 240 grit) and two short length drill bits.  The W bit and the 29/64" bits complete my stubby drill collection.  Have a full Huot box now!

Had a taper incident in my lathe, so need the stones for some minor repairs.  Let's just say, next time, I'll use a drawbar.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Navy Chief said:


> Not purchased today, but arrived today. Need to order some materials to make the mounting hardware now.
> 
> Build quality in these looks really good, can't wait to try them out and get away from the four way post on the lathe now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


i am on the list to get a kit from him


----------



## wachuko

Navy Chief said:


> Not purchased today, but arrived today. Need to order some materials to make the mounting hardware now.
> 
> Build quality in these looks really good, can't wait to try them out and get away from the four way post on the lathe now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


Do not know what it is about that system… but I really like how it looks… 

Is it better than the other QCTP? Or functionality is the same??


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> Do not know what it is about that system… but I really like how it looks…
> 
> Is it better than the other QCTP? Or functionality is the same??


here is a review on the PWT kit, if you have questions, email Peter at pewetools@gmx.net


----------



## Kiwi Canuck

A new DX-6 Kurt Vise, and the out going Precision Matthews Supplied 5" Vise.

Man, I should have bought one of these much sooner, and I should have bought 2 of them for longer work.

Very nice, silky smooth operation, absolute quality.

David.


----------



## Navy Chief

wachuko said:


> Do not know what it is about that system… but I really like how it looks…
> 
> Is it better than the other QCTP? Or functionality is the same??


I'm not sure it is really any better than any other QCTP out there, personally I like the functionality of the toolpost to easily and repeatably clock the tool to different positions if needed. Also I think that the locking mechanism on them is more solid that the wedge type of toolposts, there is significantly more surface contact area between the holders and the toolpost than the wedge or piston type, that not likely to make any perceptible difference though. There are a lot of happy multifix users out there, and there are a lot of happy users of every other system.... I definitely agree that it looks great though.


----------



## Eyerelief

As I get older I guess I am getting weaker.  I've been noticing that I have to really pull on my tap wrenches to break the tap off in the part.  This was making me tired, and upon occasion causing me to spill my beer so I went in search of a solution.  I found a deal on these made by Starrett tap wrenches.  With the additional length of the handles, I should be back on top of my game, having no problem breaking taps like I could when I was in my 20's.


----------



## WobblyHand

A SA-1000 1" slitting saw arbor and an extended 1/4" drill found their way to my house.  There were a few other items, but not that interesting.  I kind of was astonished to see that McMaster was trying to emulate Amazon packaging, or lack thereof.  There was zero packing material, which is so unlike them.  That 1.2 lb saw arbor was banging around with some long drills and other hardware in the big empty box.  Going to let my friends at McMaster know that this 0 packing technique doesn't protect the stuff I paid for.



There was nothing else in the box besides a single sheet of paper packing list.  Somebody must of had a rushed day.  Honestly surprised the box arrived intact.  The box is 13"W x 8"H x 5.5"D.  Tallest item was the saw arbor.  The good thing, it all got here.


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> A SA-1000 1" slitting saw arbor and an extended 1/4" drill found their way to my house.  There were a few other items, but not that interesting.  I kind of was astonished to see that McMaster was trying to emulate Amazon packaging, or lack thereof.  There was zero packing material, which is so unlike them.  That 1.2 lb saw arbor was banging around with some long drills and other hardware in the big empty box.  Going to let my friends at McMaster know that this 0 packing technique doesn't protect the stuff I paid for.
> View attachment 399522
> View attachment 399523
> 
> There was nothing else in the box besides a single sheet of paper packing list.  Somebody must of had a rushed day.  Honestly surprised the box arrived intact.  The box is 13"W x 8"H x 5.5"D.  Tallest item was the saw arbor.  The good thing, it all got here.


yea, that's not right... the damage done in transit can be substantial.


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> yea, that's not right... the damage done in transit can be substantial.


Sent McMaster a note on this.  They are usually very good about follow up.  Probably not going to do much, but at least one gets a human response, which shows some level of caring about their customers.

The worst packing I've seen was by Zoro.  Bought a Starrett tap wrench.  Only received an empty box.  Why?  No packing material in an overly large box allowed the heavy tap wrench to get loose and bang around, eventually making a hole in the box.  The wrench escaped.  To their credit, they did send me another one right away.


----------



## wachuko

Someone gave this air compressor to my brother a few years ago… It just sat in his shed all this time unused…

He knew I was going to buy one and offered it for free… yeah, I will take it…


----------



## NCjeeper

I didn't buy it today, but it arrived today. I ordered it 15 months ago.   48" box and pan brake. 16 gauge capacity.


----------



## WobblyHand

McMaster follow up.  They emailed me today.  They apologized for the lack of packing materials in the box, thanked me for the feedback and passed the information along to the warehouse team for review.  They said to let them know if any of the items are damaged, and they will take care of it.

There are people in business that care.  Makes me feel better about it.  Will still do business with them.

The only thing I'm concerned about are the two long drill bits, the 1/4" and a letter P.  The saw arbor was protected by it's plastic box.  What can I do to check the bits?  Roll them on a flat looking for light?  Indicate them?


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> Someone gave this air compressor to my brother a few years ago… It just sat in his shed all this time unused…
> 
> He knew I was going to buy one and offered it for free… yeah, I will take it…
> 
> View attachment 399525


----------



## Navy Chief

WobblyHand said:


> McMaster follow up. They emailed me today. They apologized for the lack of packing materials in the box, thanked me for the feedback and passed the information along to the warehouse team for review. They said to let them know if any of the items are damaged, and they will take care of it.
> 
> There are people in business that care. Makes me feel better about it. Will still do business with them.
> 
> The only thing I'm concerned about are the two long drill bits, the 1/4" and a letter P. The saw arbor was protected by it's plastic box. What can I do to check the bits? Roll them on a flat looking for light? Indicate them?


I would just roll them on a flat surface, it will be easy to see if they are bent.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## WobblyHand

Navy Chief said:


> I would just roll them on a flat surface, it will be easy to see if they are bent.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


They don't seem to be obviously bent on a kitchen counter, I know from experience that the (new) counter is neither very flat nor very level.  At least to machinist standards!


----------



## 682bear

NCjeeper said:


> I didn't buy it today, but it arrived today. I ordered it 15 months ago.   48" box and pan brake. 16 gauge capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 399535



Nice! That is on my short list of 'gotta-haves'...

-Bear


----------



## BGHansen

Janderso said:


> Bruce,
> I’ve been watching your tooling purchases over the past few years. I would think by now, bricks and mortar would be needed to hold your cache.
> It’s no wonder you can’t find those sockets
> All in fun my friend!


Found them!  Just needed to look deeper in my drawer of SAE sockets.

Bruce


----------



## T Bredehoft

Just purchased  (In Holland) a 2000 watt converter so I can run my electrical tools in my shop in Rotterdam. For the price of a good router I can run my  two routers, hand drills, Dumore grinder, other small electric tools, rather than buying new. Now I have to schlep them there over the course of several flights. (50 lbs per suitcase. )


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> McMaster follow up.  They emailed me today.  They apologized for the lack of packing materials in the box, thanked me for the feedback and passed the information along to the warehouse team for review.  They said to let them know if any of the items are damaged, and they will take care of it.
> 
> There are people in business that care.  Makes me feel better about it.  Will still do business with them.
> 
> The only thing I'm concerned about are the two long drill bits, the 1/4" and a letter P.  The saw arbor was protected by it's plastic box.  What can I do to check the bits?  Roll them on a flat looking for light?  Indicate them?


spin them up in a chuck... you'll know if they are bent. Also take a magnifier to the tip and see if it is clean.


----------



## Badabinski

I recently joined a local makerspace that has a pretty nice lathe and mill (a VERY well used Monarch 10EE and an Enco Bridgeport clone). One thing I noticed is that they only have those cheap Noga knockoff indicator holders that have a TERRIBLE fine-adjust. I've been looking to upgrade to an indicator holder that has the fine adjust on the base, so I gave them my current Noga arm and bought a Noga MG10533 off of Amazon.

I learned some things in the process:

Noga doesn't use enough packing material
Amazon (by default) refuses to process returns on things that have strong magnets. The robot they keep trapped in their app will tell you that you're SOL when your brand new fancy-pants $$$ Noga indicator holder arrives with a big crack in the base. No returns, no exchanges, no quarter, no surrender
Humans are better than robots when you can convince the robot to let you speak to one and will just give your money back without requiring you to send anything back
MSC has very fast delivery where I live
I have zero impulse control
Having two robot arms to wave at people and hold things is amusing
People think you're weird for owning two identical robot-arm looking things




The moral of the story is this: never, ever, ever buy anything off of Amazon that is expensive, fragile, and has a big freaking magnet in it. You might just end up with two.

EDIT: The weird musical notes with faces are Otamatones. I didn't buy those today, I just wanted to make this photo more interesting.

EDIT: I'll note that the indicator holder with the cracked base does still work. I should be able to use it as long as I keep chips away from it. I just wanted to exchange it for an undamaged one given how expensive these things are.


----------



## woodchucker

the musical notes didn't make it more interesting. it was a WTF moment when I read that.


----------



## extropic

@Badabinski 

I had no idea of the no return policy for strong magnets, so thanks for the heads-up.
I suppose somebody could return one in the ON position and gum up the works.

I'd like to see detailed photos showing the crack and it's location.


----------



## Badabinski

extropic said:


> @Badabinski
> 
> I had no idea of the no return policy for strong magnets, so thanks for the heads-up.
> I suppose somebody could return one in the ON position and gum up the works.
> 
> I'd like to see detailed photos showing the crack and it's location.


I totally forgot I grabbed a photo of the crack. Here it is. You have to zoom in to see it, but the crack looks like it wants to open up wider.
Everything still works, but that opening will absolutely be a way for schmutz to get in. I'm going to seal it somehow, but I don't want to get anything in the mechanism which rules out a big glob of RTV or something like that.


----------



## extropic

Badabinski said:


> I totally forgot I grabbed a photo of the crack. Here it is. You have to zoom in to see it, but the crack looks like it wants to open up wider.
> Everything still works, but that opening will absolutely be a way for schmutz to get in. I'm going to seal it somehow, but I don't want to get anything in the mechanism which rules out a big glob of RTV or something like that.



I can't tell from the photo. Is the rotating magnet visible through the crack?

If so, put a label over it or a happy face sticker.


----------



## WobblyHand

extropic said:


> I can't tell from the photo. Is the rotating magnet visible through the crack?
> 
> If so, put a label over it or a happy face sticker.


No one can tell from the photo.  It is only 300 x 400 pixels.  There are no details left.  Can barely even tell if there is a problem at all.  In real life there may be a big deep crack, but we can't see it.  HM has de-detailed the photo with it's (IMHO) aggressive compression algorithm.

I guess we all need to take super zoomed photos now, of important details, else the forum just compresses and blurs them away.


----------



## Badabinski

WobblyHand said:


> No one can tell from the photo.  It is only 300 x 400 pixels.  There are no details left.  Can barely even tell if there is a problem at all.  In real life there may be a big deep crack, but we can't see it.  HM has de-detailed the photo with it's (IMHO) aggressive compression algorithm.
> 
> I guess we all need to take super zoomed photos now, of important details, else the forum just compresses and blurs them away.


Yeah, that definitely got a little compressed! Like, after clicking on that thumbnail it gets a bit bigger, but it's nowhere near the original resolution.

@extropic you can't quite see the magnet, but you can definitely see the cylinder it rotates in. I very much like your happy face sticker idea! Maybe I'll put something stronger down first (probably not anything that gets super gummy. Maybe kapton tape?) and then put a sticker over that.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought pine trim, wood putty & stain for my chest of drawers project.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought 16 feet of & two different diameters of black pipe, 3/8” plate & Grade 8 bolts for my weld test stand project:


----------



## IamNotImportant

any of you guys ever go to a D2p.com trade show?


----------



## IamNotImportant

i bought a new mower!


----------



## WobblyHand

Nice mower!  Still another month or so from mowing here.  Right now it's snowing.  Only 3 inches, but nothing's growing here yet.


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> Nice mower!  Still another month or so from mowing here.  Right now it's snowing.  Only 3 inches, but nothing's growing here yet.


yeah.. they calling for up to 3" here this sat.. but next week.. back to 50 60's.. and then the following week.. in the 70's so sometime next week if the rain stays mild.. prob will be on it..


----------



## woodchucker

I think you should take it apart, then weld it up... just a tack weld will hold it.. But you need to remove everything first.  And drill a hole at each end of the crack to stop it from growing.


----------



## Kiwi Canuck

IamNotImportant said:


> i bought a new mower!
> 
> View attachment 399634


What size is that? a 48" or 52" looks very nice.
Can you bag with that mower or side discharge only?

David.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Kiwi Canuck said:


> What size is that? a 48" or 52" looks very nice.
> Can you bag with that mower or side discharge only?
> 
> David.


it is a 48" i have a 52" Tiger Cat II as well.. The Deer, you can bag with a side mounted bagger. I usually don't do that.. From July on, i generally mulch as i mow


----------



## erikmannie

More putty & sandpaper (not shown).

1/2” hot rolled round stock (for T-handles), 1/2” steel plate, Grade 8 nuts & bolts, flap disk, & wire wheel. The 9” X 3” plate was $40!


----------



## IamNotImportant

erikmannie said:


> More putty & sandpaper (not shown).
> 
> 1/2” hot rolled round stock (for T-handles), 1/2” steel plate, Grade 8 nuts & bolts, flap disk, & wire wheel. The 9” X 3” plate was $40!
> 
> View attachment 399815


40 bucks!


----------



## Dave Smith

IamNotImportant said:


> 40 bucks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 399817
> View attachment 399817
> View attachment 399817
> View attachment 399817
> View attachment 399817
> View attachment 399817


wow---I'm sure glad I have all the metal I will ever need.
Dave


----------



## Shootymacshootface

Hit my used tool dealer today. All this stuff was less than $70. 
Ha ha, a tank of fuel.


----------



## tonydi

Badabinski said:


> Amazon (by default) refuses to process returns on things that have strong magnets. The robot they keep trapped in their app will tell you that you're SOL when your brand new fancy-pants $$$ Noga indicator holder arrives with a big crack in the base. No returns, no exchanges, no quarter, no surrender



Boy, I'd push back on that.  It depends on the actual seller and without knowing who sold you that one it's hard to say.  But most at least say you can return if damaged or defective while a few accept returns for any reason.  Dig around on Amazon.com, there's a way to get a human to call you and that should get you past the bot's policy.


----------



## Badabinski

tonydi said:


> Boy, I'd push back on that.  It depends on the actual seller and without knowing who sold you that one it's hard to say.  But most at least say you can return if damaged or defective while a few accept returns for any reason.  Dig around on Amazon.com, there's a way to get a human to call you and that should get you past the bot's policy.


I was able to, thankfully! They gave me my money back right away without making me return anything. The app makes it a bit difficult to actually get to a human, but you just need to keep tapping and you'll get there.

If I had to guess, I'd say that their return system doesn't allow them to differentiate items that can't be shipped by air (magnets, gasses, flammables and such), so they just rule out shipping any of those things back. It's probably cheaper for them to take those losses rather than redesign their logistically-complex return system.


----------



## 7milesup

Keep in mind that Amazon is starting to become similar to eBay. If it doesn't say "sold and shipped by Amazon" it then is coming from a third party.  Nothing wrong with that, but something to be aware of because return policies do vary a little.


----------



## Badabinski

7milesup said:


> Keep in mind that Amazon is starting to become similar to eBay. If it doesn't say "sold and shipped by Amazon" it then is coming from a third party.  Nothing wrong with that, but something to be aware of because return policies do vary a little.


I actually avoid anything that's not at least shipped by Amazon. I've had some... unfortunate experiences in the past, so I check for that on everything I buy. In this case, it was sold by a 3rd party, but it shipped from an Amazon warehouse. I'm guessing the rep would have been able to do more if it had been sold by Amazon as well, but it seems likely that I still wouldn't have been able to return the thing and they would have just shipped me another one.


----------



## IamNotImportant

7milesup said:


> Keep in mind that Amazon is starting to become similar to eBay. If it doesn't say "sold and shipped by Amazon" it then is coming from a third party.  Nothing wrong with that, but something to be aware of because return policies do vary a little.


What i like to do is find the item on bezo's site, then see if the seller has a website and order it straight from the seller bypassing bezo's


----------



## Magnett

WobblyHand said:


> A SA-1000 1" slitting saw arbor and an extended 1/4" drill found their way to my house.  There were a few other items, but not that interesting.  I kind of was astonished to see that McMaster was trying to emulate Amazon packaging, or lack thereof.  There was zero packing material, which is so unlike them.  That 1.2 lb saw arbor was banging around with some long drills and other hardware in the big empty box.  Going to let my friends at McMaster know that this 0 packing technique doesn't protect the stuff I paid for.
> View attachment 399522
> View attachment 399523
> 
> There was nothing else in the box besides a single sheet of paper packing list.  Somebody must of had a rushed day.  Honestly surprised the box arrived intact.  The box is 13"W x 8"H x 5.5"D.  Tallest item was the saw arbor.  The good thing, it all got here.


The box was probably filled by a robot.


----------



## Magnett

IamNotImportant said:


> i bought a new mower!
> 
> View attachment 399634


Now thats a mower!


----------



## woodchucker

Magnett said:


> Now thats a mower!


No its a deer


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> No its a deer


my other deer


----------



## matthewsx

IamNotImportant said:


> my other deer
> 
> View attachment 399983


Worked on a few of those in my old business.


----------



## IamNotImportant

matthewsx said:


> Worked on a few of those in my old business.


i had her out today, mulching leaves


----------



## woodchucker

IamNotImportant said:


> my other deer
> 
> View attachment 399983


nope, not a deer, a scag


----------



## Gaffer

I responded to a CL ad the other day and told him I couldn’t meet until today. He said he was attending an antique tool swap meet so we met there. It was a small event and I was kicking myself I didn’t bring more cash. Anyway, afterwards we went to his house and I picked up a sine plate, Jo Blocks, and a 5C collet block set. He threw in a hardbound book, Turret Lathe Operator’s Manual. I don't have a turret lathe but I like to read and it has good info in it.


----------



## Dave Smith

I got 6 nice metal cabinets with small drawers for drills and bits and everything else, on a nice stand on wheels with a pull out work table at an auction. I also got a nice small jeweler's torch, gauges and tanks set full of oxy/acet. a very good day.
Dave


----------



## Dave Smith

most people shy away from these shallow metal drawer cabinets cause they don't think they are good for anything but record cards.
I have gutted all the insides of the drawers of the extra metal pieces and all the spring wires that hold and space the cards. now they are clear 8 1/2'' by 22'' by 1"  for all my small bits and drills and taps and measuring tools and all my cap screws and set screws and keystock and machine screws and anything small needing a drawer. you know what I mean.
I came up with approx 4800 of the nice spring sreel wires that I will find a use for or I could sell them for 10 cents apiece or a dozen for a dollar and get rich. each drawer also had two extra pieces of 8 1/4"x5 1/4"x.025 steel. one with a piano hinge. these I will find uses for other projects.
Dave


----------



## wachuko

This arrived... 



	

		
			
		

		
	
.


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> This arrived...
> 
> View attachment 400251
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> View attachment 400252


is that a sine bar for the mill?


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> This arrived...
> 
> View attachment 400251
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> View attachment 400252


Is that a sign that you'll be using that in the future?


----------



## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> Is that a sign that you'll be using that in the future?





woodchucker said:


> is that a sine bar for the mill?



Yes... sine bar.  Got it off eBay.  Impulse buy after reading that thread on sine bars...  You guys fault...

A Taft Peirce 5" Sine Bar

Now, if it is a sign that I will using a sine bar in the future?  Not sure about that...  sure hope so... whenever the need arises.


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> Yes... sine bar.  Got it off eBay.  Impulse buy after reading that thread on sine bars...  You guys fault...
> 
> A Taft Peirce 5" Sine Bar
> 
> Now, if it is a sign that I will using a sine bar in the future?  Not sure about that...


Aren't you going to try it out?


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> Aren't you going to try it out?


He's waiting for a sign


----------



## WobblyHand

Ok, here's the sign.


Now get moving!


----------



## Just for fun

Got these on Friday.


----------



## Dhal22

WobblyHand said:


> Ok, here's the sign.
> View attachment 400284
> 
> Now get moving!


----------



## Magnett

My first foray into this money pit!  Eisen 1236GH. 
Now to work on a stand.


----------



## Winegrower

My bandsaw came with a 1/3HP motor, obviously stuck in there by some misguided owner.   I upgraded it to 2HP, so now I have this 3 phase motor surplus.   I saw a $50 VFD on eBay, thought I would see if it was any good.   It came today, and even though all instructions are in Chinese, there were a couple clear pictures of the wiring...only AC line and motor, so pretty clear in any language.   In 10 minutes mainly spent fumbling with wire, strippers and screwdrivers it was hooked up and working just as it should.

I see that the VFD runs on 110 or 220 single phase, but the 3 phase voltage is limited to the line voltage.  So, 110 in, max 110 out.   I tried it on both input voltages, the legs were pretty balanced in currents, and on 220 (what the motor was wired for) it ran at the nameplate current rating.

Now what to do with this motor?   I'm thinking of using it on the die filer where the variable speed really makes sense.   The next project, perhaps.

Edit:  the seller quickly sent English instructions, and it is quite configurable for the major parameters, start/stop, frequency limits, remote speed, direction and stop/go controls, display of RPM, temperature, bus voltages and current frequency, etc.  The defaults are well chosen, it works ok out of the box.

The main limitation is a 750W max output.   Fine for a 1/3HP motor.


----------



## JRaut

I bought a mini carburetor (Perry No. 2400) for the Edwards 5-cylinder radial motor that I'm working on.

This is about the smallest commercial carburetor I've ever seen; hardly bigger than a bottle cap.



Sort of hard for me to believe that it'll flow enough charge to power all 5 cylinders of this bad boy, but they tell me that: because the 5 cylinders are all firing sequentially (i.e., none are firing at the same time), that the carb need only be sized to supply one cylinder.




If you've not seen it, I've got a build thread going here:








						Edwards Radial 5 build thread --- PHOTOS!
					

What's wrong with the cardboard box? Its functional & low environmental impact LOL  My pic is still in camera but I made this rotisserie contraption mostly to help with assembly. Hopefully makes sense. The idea is I can rotate the engine to any position, lock it in position & work on one...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## mickri

A couple of weeks ago I picked up a HF Sheet Metal Folding Tool.  https://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-sheet-metal-folding-tool-96523.html.  I had seen one in a YT video used to make a plenum for a furnace. Used it to help make a cap for the top of my chimney.  Didn't work very well on the thick aluminum sheet I salvaged from the yard art aluminum skiff that was left at my new place.  I thought another one of those things that work well in the video but not in practice.  Through it in a box.

Decided to give it another try yesterday to make a flashing for a door threshold.  The material this time was thin aluminum flashing.  Worked ok on the thin flashing.  Got a nice crisp bend with a bit of effort.  Had to bend it way past 90 degrees to compensate for the spring back in the flashing.  My take on this tool is that if you don't have a metal press brake and need to bend a one inch lip on some thin sheet metal this will get the job done.  Not great but good enough to get by.


----------



## wachuko

Giving the 3D printer some TLC...




It has two printing heads.  I will setup one for using Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate filament.  That requires replacing  the nozzle in that head with a Hardened Steel Nozzle... That carbon fiber reinforced filament would wear a normal nozzle very quickly.  Also, it is recommended to be dedicated to that type of filament as it does badly with the others (PLA, ABS, etc.)

This is to be able to print more durable/heat resistant parts...  I was researching last night for new, more durable, filaments available and this one looks to be better than nylon/nylon-X.  I have been stuck in the past with only ABS and PLA...

Ordered a set of R8 collects to keep at the other house with the Wells-Index milling machine...




And this arrived yesterday... Handle for the Kurt vise... and some elbows and pipe... one for moving the drain valve in the air compressor tank, to be easily accessible from the side and the other elbow to use on the power drawbar air system (to connect from the bottom for better hose routing)


----------



## Navy Chief

This followed me home yesterday, next I need to order the Swag Off-road table for it.







Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## IamNotImportant

Navy Chief said:


> This followed me home yesterday, next I need to order the Swag Off-road table for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


i would like to get one like that.. don't know which one i want though.. and the table too


----------



## woodchucker

Navy Chief said:


> This followed me home yesterday, next I need to order the Swag Off-road table for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


Save your money and make one.  Use your machines to make a machine...


----------



## Dhal22

IamNotImportant said:


> i would like to get one like that.. don't know which one i want though.. and the table too


 

Most of my life in commercial construction and many different brands have their strong points.   As a plumber Ridgid everything.   Bosch or Hilti for concrete,  etc.   And for a Portaband, Milwaukee only, their deep cut version was industry standard for decades.  Variable speed trigger AND with an adjustable speed dial on the trigger.  And the deep cut angle approach idea.   No body else made anything like that.


----------



## Navy Chief

woodchucker said:


> Save your money and make one. Use your machines to make a machine...


With the cost of materials anymore it was cheaper to order one.... I didn't have what I needed in stock.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## Navy Chief

Dhal22 said:


> Most of my life in commercial construction and many different brands have their strong points. As a plumber Ridgid everything. Bosch or Hilti for concrete, etc. And for a Portaband, Milwaukee only, their deep cut version was industry standard for decades. Variable speed trigger AND with an adjustable speed dial on the trigger. And the deep cut angle approach idea. No body else made anything like that.


For the money this one will serve me well for a long time, everyone around here is pretty sure that anything Milwaukee is made of gold. This is old school Porter cable, the only plastic on it is the handles. 

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## IamNotImportant

Navy Chief said:


> For the money this one will serve me well for a long time, everyone around here is pretty sure that anything Milwaukee is made of gold. This is old school Porter cable, the only plastic on it is the handles.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


yeah.. i know someone whom is like that bout Milwaukee, he's a pipe fitter


----------



## woodchucker

Yes, first, there are more than one design to make a working table. 
And yes, material will be less than the Swag model.

I'll  post a pic of mine later. I'm getting ready to go to the dr.


----------



## Janderso

Dave Smith said:


> I got 6 nice metal cabinets with small drawers for drills and bits and everything else, on a nice stand on wheels with a pull out work table at an auction. I also got a nice small jeweler's torch, gauges and tanks set full of oxy/acet. a very good day.
> Dave


You kind of suck!


----------



## Navy Chief

woodchucker said:


> Yes, first, there are more than one design to make a working table.
> And yes, material will be less than the Swag model.
> 
> I'll  post a pic of mine later. I'm getting ready to go to the dr.


Thanks I would appreciate it...


----------



## Janderso

wachuko said:


> Yes... sine bar.  Got it off eBay.  Impulse buy after reading that thread on sine bars...  You guys fault...
> 
> A Taft Peirce 5" Sine Bar
> 
> Now, if it is a sign that I will using a sine bar in the future?  Not sure about that...  sure hope so... whenever the need arises.


I bought a 5” compound sine. Comes in very handy on the mill and surface grinder


----------



## Navy Chief

Janderso said:


> I bought a 5” compound sine. Comes in very handy on the mill and surface grinder


I'm thinking I need a sine table for my sine vise for compound work....


----------



## wachuko

Bought a few switches, potentiometer, RPM display, etc. to build a control box for the VFD on the milling machine... So I can move the VFD to a safe location.




Also got 10 -  8' long LED lights for the garage to use at the new house... Not enough light with those two lamps the builder installed.

Getting rid of the garage door motor... to clean up the ceiling.  Thinking of using one of those manual jackshaft chain-driven hoist to avoid spending on an electric jackshaft opener...  I also want to raise the rails, but looking at the process, that might be more involved and costly... I thought it was just extending the rails, but looks like you also need to change the location of the springs, the spring type, etc... not something I want to do or spend on right now...


----------



## IamNotImportant

Don't know if i suck, kinda suck or don't suck at all but i pick these up today for 150.00


----------



## wachuko

Well... going down the list of must have tooling... Ordered a Shars 2" boring head with R8 shank, Brown & Sharpe 599-792-30 Adjustable Spring Tensioned Tap Guide, and a PEAK TS2032 Fixed Focus Loupe


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a “Rollout Wheel”. This is a “Weld it up yourself” kit.









						DIY Rollout Wheel Kit - H&K Fabrication
					

Don't overpay on a rollout wheel, H&K produces a high quality DIY Rollout Wheel Kit (welding positioner) at a very reasonable price. Our kits take about 30 minutes to fit and tack together. With 3 different functions (2G, 3G, 6G) and fine tune leveler for adjustments in between, our kit is a...




					hkfabrication.com
				




Pictures:










Also, I bought the 2 Tractor Supply items that the DIY kit requires:



			https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/carry-on-trailer-hub-assembly-4-bolt-1-250-lb-capacity
		


and



			https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/carry-on-trailer-spindle-kit-1-1-16-in
		


Pictures of the Tractor Supply items:




and




I also need the receiver hitch plus an 8” lathe chuck, but I will need to work another few weeks before I buy those.

I want to add this to my weld test stand, but I’m still figuring out how to do that and support all the weight. The weld stand lives in 2 different places (indoors & outdoors) depending on what type of welding I’m doing.

I’m going to start a thread on how to mount this receiver (or 2” square tubing) to my (indoor) metal welding table, and (outdoor) wooden workbench. It needs to be height adjustable.


----------



## erikmannie

One of my customers gifted me these old, used tools today:

(1) 3” Woden (Made in England) bench vise (I will bolt this to my welding bench):




(2) “No markings” drill press vise:




(3) Tescom “The Little Torch”. I didn’t want to carry the 1000 psi oxygen & 0 psi acetylene cylinders and regulators in my UPS truck, so I’m going to pick up those in a few days. The tiny torch is still at her house, attached to the hoses. This reminds me that I need to splice in some flashback arresters!

I put my fingers in there for scale.


----------



## erikmannie

Continued: the stuff that I am less excited about.

Asbestos, used as fire bricks:




Clamp:




Thick wooden box with a hidden compartment in the top.







A new box of peanut butter dog biscuits:


----------



## Dhal22

Navy Chief said:


> For the money this one will serve me well for a long time, everyone around here is pretty sure that anything Milwaukee is made of gold. This is old school Porter cable, the only plastic on it is the handles.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk




I'm not particularly a Milwaukee fan,  my battery powered tools are Dewalt, just their angled portaband deep cut idea was very clever. .  Yours will be perfect for the table band saw conversion.


----------



## Aukai

I got a few more than I will ever need, but at 7 bucks each, why not?


----------



## Bi11Hudson

A curious thing just happened. Some time back, I bought some brass machinist's clamps. Not so much becauise I needed them, but to have something 'cool' on the bench. The last couple of days I have been working on small motors, small as in 1-1/2 by 1/2 by 3/4 inch. They are DC permanant magnet motors, in this case I suspect surplus from WW2. The model dates from 1951 or so. The brass clamps happened to be the handiest, and working with brass clamps I found to have several good points around the magnets. They weren't a new purchase, just my use around magnets that I have been dealing with for years. And having trouble with for years. Old dog, new tricks does happen now and again.

.


----------



## 682bear

Brown & Sharpe 7-8" micrometer...




Ebay... about $33 shipped. I had to oil it and adjust it... but it works well.

-Bear


----------



## IamNotImportant

682bear said:


> Brown & Sharpe 7-8" micrometer...
> 
> View attachment 400868
> 
> 
> Ebay... about $33 shipped. I had to oil it and adjust it... but it works well.
> 
> -Bear


geez.. i don't have any thing that i can measure with that!


----------



## Jim F

Mitutoyo 2-3" swedish mic, .0001.
$55 shipped.
has PO etched in, but I can live with that.
Standard and wrench include in original case.


----------



## cathead

With inflation running rampant, I decided to spend a few bucks.  
	

		
			
		

		
	




It's a Kurt DX6 Crossover vise.




It's a pull type vise that is supposed to exhibit less flex and thus be more accurate.  In general it seems like a nice
tool but several things were somewhat concerning.  The handle, although a nice one is long enough to impact the
table so I opted for my home made one which is just fine.  Another thing is that the screw is somewhat exposed to
chips and a strip of thin steel was in the package to cover over it.  Apparently it is to be cut to size or something
since there is no way to use it without cutting it up.  Then comes the question: where does one cut it?  It would
depend on the size of the work I think.  The threads do have a chip protector so at present I don't know if I will be
using it or not.  Also, there is a groove on the top of the rear clamping block that is for mounting a small work stop.
There was no work stop with the vise so have to come up with one.  So far, I'm not sure what to think about the holes
in the vise surface.  There are plastic plugs covering the holes when not used.    It looks like one could attach the
vise to the table with some 1/2 x 13 Allen screws but I opted for the conventional method for the time being. 

So all in all it is a pretty nice vise and looks like it will serve me well.  It's a 6 inch vise but opens over 9 inches
so that's a handy feature.  I think I will like it.




edit: typo


----------



## wachuko

That came out great!  You seem to have found matching paint.  Can you share paint brand and color used?

And yes, that thin metal plate cover, I can’t figure out it’s purpose… it does not slide under so unless you cut it to a specific size for a specific use, it is kind of worthless…


----------



## WobblyHand

cathead said:


> With inflation running rampant, I decided to spend a few bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 400955
> 
> 
> It's a Kurt DX6 Crossover vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a pull type vise that is supposed to exhibit less flex and thus be more accurate.  In general it seems like a nice
> tool but several things were somewhat concerning.  The handle, although a nice one is long enough to impact the
> table so I opted for my home made one which is just fine.  Another thing is that the screw is somewhat exposed to
> chips and a strip of thin steel was in the package to cover over it.  Apparently it is to be cut to size or something
> since there is no way to use it without cutting it up.  Then comes the question: where does one cut it?  It would
> depend on the size of the work I think.  The threads do have a chip protector so at present I don't know if I will be
> using it or not.  Also, there is a groove on the top of the rear clamping block that is for mounting a small work stop.
> There was no work stop with the vise so have to come up with one.  So far, I'm not sure what to think about the holes
> in the vise surface.  There are plastic plugs covering the holes when not used.    It looks like on could attach the
> vise to the table with some 1/2 x 13 Allen screws but I opted for the conventional method for the time being.
> 
> So all in all it is a pretty nice vise and looks like it will serve me well.  It's a 6 inch vise but opens over 9 inches
> so that's a handy feature.  I think I will like it.


Hope you didn't throw away the box.  My work stop was well hidden in the box.  It's small and easy to miss.  Look in the crevices of the cardboard.  Can't say that the work stop is super duper, but it's functional.  Check again in the packing materials in the box.


----------



## cathead

WobblyHand said:


> Hope you didn't throw away the box.  My work stop was well hidden in the box.  It's small and easy to miss.  Look in the crevices of the cardboard.  Can't say that the work stop is super duper, but it's functional.  Check again in the packing materials in the box.



I have the box so will look again....


----------



## WobblyHand

If I recall correctly, I cut the thin metal roughly in thirds.  Stuck the short piece in from the back side, it's useful for small stuff.  Long piece goes into the front.  At times the chip shield is a pia.  But it mostly keeps chips off the screw.  I keep a small iron disc on the front side of the vise, to keep from accidentally tipping over the the thin shield.  Better than magnetizing the vise.


----------



## cathead

wachuko said:


> That came out great!  You seem to have found matching paint.  Can you share paint brand and color used?
> 
> And yes, that thin metal plate cover, I can’t figure out it’s purpose… it does not slide under so unless you cut it to a specific size for a specific use, it is kind of worthless…







I got mine at Menard's.       $3.99 I think it was -11%


----------



## wachuko

What work stop are you guys talking about???  Did I missed something in the box??


----------



## cathead

wachuko said:


> What work stop are you guys talking about???  Did I missed something in the box??
> 
> View attachment 400965
> 
> 
> View attachment 400966
> 
> 
> View attachment 400967




It's a tiny thing that mounts on the groove on the rear clamp block.  If you have one, how does it affix to the vise?
A photo would help.


----------



## WobblyHand

Here you go.  I have a DX4, but would imagine it is the same for a DX6.



You guys get all excited with your new big toys, you forget to look through the whole box!  It's well hidden in a crevice in the packing cardboard.  Should still be there.  @wachuko, what you have already is fine.  This little guy has some utility if used carefully, but I am sure there are nicer ones out there that are a bit more rigid.  It is handy at times when you don't want to crowd your table.  The side view part at 2.6" is the section that fits in the jaw slot.  The screw expands the wedge, holding it in place.


----------



## wachuko

Well, son of a gun...  It is gone with the box... #@$%@#$%


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> Well, son of a gun...  It is gone with the box... #@$%@#$%


Too darn neat, I tell you!  Ahem, I still have my Kurt box.  Don't know why, really.  Should have thrown it out long ago.  Probably kept it since it was a sturdy box.

Honestly, the work stop isn't that great.  You don't need to go off and get one.  Might be fun to try to make one though.


----------



## mmcmdl

wachuko said:


> Well, son of a gun... It is gone with the box... #@$%@#$%


Careful there , we are G rated !


----------



## cathead

Thanks for the photo WobblyHand.  I have been trying to figure out how the clamp worked in that 3/16 inch  groove.  Now I know
so can make one.  I looked over the shipping very carefully and it is not there, pretty sure as I went over it twice.


----------



## WobblyHand

cathead said:


> Thanks for the photo WobblyHand.  I have been trying to figure out how the clamp worked in that 3/16 inch  groove.  Now I know
> so can make one.  I looked over the shipping very carefully and it is not there, pretty sure as I went over it twice.


I found mine in the stacked cardboard section.  Look again.  Took me four tries to find it!  Try looking behind the flaps in the box as well.
If you need some more photos of it, I can snap a few.


----------



## John O

wachuko said:


> What work stop are you guys talking about???  Did I missed something in the box??
> 
> View attachment 400965
> 
> 
> View attachment 400966
> 
> 
> View attachment 400967


looks like your stop is there, just to the right of the screw.
see at 3:47 in video


----------



## wachuko

John O said:


> looks like your stop is there, just to the right of the screw.
> see at 3:47 in video


Ohh I see… let me check




And he was able to slide the cover from the back!  I tried and after getting the same initial resistance he got, I stopped trying… ha!  I will try again!

Thank you @John O  !!


----------



## wachuko

What do you know!? There you are!!




On the metal cover…They must have changed the design again from when that video was done… there is simply no hole/slot to slide in from the back…


----------



## Winegrower

You guys are making me nervous about a DX6…seems like kind of weird design choices.


----------



## wachuko

Got the paint… could not find exactly the same one @John O used… but it matches


----------



## John O

Can't take credit for the paint, all my stuff just rusts


----------



## extropic

wachuko said:


> On the metal cover…They must have changed the design again from when that video was done… there is simply no hole/slot to slide in from the back…



Regarding the cover, it doesn't really make sense that Kurt would include it in the box if there was no way to install it.
I suppose some manufacturing defect or oversite is possible, but . . . I suggest you take another look.


LOL, in 41 minutes you "Got the paint" and painted ??? You must live next door to the hardware store.


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> What do you know!? There you are!!
> 
> View attachment 401006
> 
> 
> On the metal cover…They must have changed the design again from when that video was done… there is simply no hole/slot to slide in from the back…


The back of my DX4 looks like


There's a slot in the back.  The shim stock will slide in until it hits the front jaw.  There's also a nice milled recess in the fixed jaw, which is very handy when picking up the vise from the mill table.  That way you don't have the slide the vise across the table.  Hope you appreciate the pictures, I had to hold a small flashlight between my teeth to light it up enough to photograph!


Curiously, the back side of the vise is not shown in any of the Kurt literature, or on their website, for either the DX6 or DX4.


----------



## cathead

Thanks John O for posting!!!

In the meantime I made one of my own design.  It was a fun project so now I can see which one I like better.
Here's 
	

		
			
		

		
	





I have to laugh, when I took the photos, the clamp was right in front of my face.  I did see it before but thought it was part of the
front support thing.


----------



## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> The back of my DX4 looks like
> View attachment 401015
> 
> There's a slot in the back.  The shim stock will slide in until it hits the front jaw.  There's also a nice milled recess in the fixed jaw, which is very handy when picking up the vise from the mill table.  That way you don't have the slide the vise across the table.  Hope you appreciate the pictures, I had to hold a small flashlight between my teeth to light it up enough to photograph!
> View attachment 401016
> 
> Curiously, the back side of the vise is not shown in any of the Kurt literature, or on their website, for either the DX6 or DX4.



Not in mine… looks like one solid piece with the base


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> Not in mine… looks like one solid piece with the base
> 
> View attachment 401030
> 
> View attachment 401032


No slot (soup) for you!  You will need to put in the guard from the top, or the front.  But at least you found the stop!


----------



## cathead

No soup for me either I guess....




I would have had a hard time making that cute little clamp.  Thanks everyone for all the help and useful posts.


----------



## erikmannie

I got another load of stuff from my widowed friend. This is from her husband who died in 1992.

The acetylene tank is half full, as is the oxygen tank.

Some of my favorites in this batch are drills, a lot of steel & aluminum stock, Craftsman wrenches & sockets, letter & number stamps, center drills, another cool vise, & a fire brick.

I was particularly excited about the material on the *really* old hammer & sledgehammer. I like machining really old material.


----------



## wachuko

extropic said:


> Regarding the cover, it doesn't really make sense that Kurt would include it in the box if there was no way to install it…


Instructions calls for cutting to size… but that is the thing, one is always working with different sized parts.  My guess is that it worked for the previous version and they just kept it in there…


extropic said:


> …LOL, in 41 minutes you "Got the paint" and painted ??? You must live next door to the hardware store.


I was getting some mulch for the yard… but yes, ACE and Lowes are 10 minutes away…

Paint was wet when I took the photo… letting it dry right on the vise

On other news, beat the carp out of the 3/32” Starrett punch… broke 1” of the tip and bent the 1/16” punch. I ordered a new one of each to keep the set complete…


----------



## IamNotImportant

erikmannie said:


> I got another load of stuff from my widowed friend. This is from her husband who died in 1992.
> 
> The acetylene tank is half full, as is the oxygen tank.
> 
> Some of my favorites in this batch are drills, a lot of steel & aluminum stock, Craftsman wrenches & sockets, letter & number stamps, center drills, another cool vise & fire brick.
> 
> I was particularly excited about the material on the *really* old hammer & sledgehammer. I like machining really old material.
> 
> View attachment 401044
> 
> 
> View attachment 401033
> 
> 
> View attachment 401034
> 
> View attachment 401035
> 
> View attachment 401036
> 
> View attachment 401037
> 
> View attachment 401038
> 
> View attachment 401039
> 
> View attachment 401040
> 
> View attachment 401041
> 
> View attachment 401042
> 
> View attachment 401043


nice old tackle box


----------



## woodchucker

erikmannie said:


> I got another load of stuff from my widowed friend. This is from her husband who died in 1992.
> 
> The acetylene tank is half full, as is the oxygen tank.
> 
> Some of my favorites in this batch are drills, a lot of steel & aluminum stock, Craftsman wrenches & sockets, letter & number stamps, center drills, another cool vise & fire brick.
> 
> I was particularly excited about the material on the *really* old hammer & sledgehammer. I like machining really old material.
> 
> View attachment 401044
> 
> 
> View attachment 401033
> 
> 
> View attachment 401034
> 
> View attachment 401035
> 
> View attachment 401036
> 
> View attachment 401037
> 
> View attachment 401038
> 
> View attachment 401039
> 
> View attachment 401040
> 
> View attachment 401041
> 
> View attachment 401042
> 
> View attachment 401043


nice score...
Can I see a better picture of the Little hand plane in the upper left corner on the last pic.  I'm curious if it says Stanley on it anywhere?
It might be a valuable hand plane. Hard to tell.


----------



## erikmannie

@woodchucker 

Here is a picture of the smallest hand plane:







And the medium size hand plane:


----------



## erikmannie

IamNotImportant said:


> nice old tackle box


The lady (Ana) said that this was the first toolbox that she bought herself when she was about 22 years old. She was an art student. She got a bachelor of fine arts in Metal Art.


----------



## woodchucker

OMG.. That *looks like* a Stanley #1 , but it's missing the lever cap... it has some other type of cap (homemade maybe)...
If that were intact it would be worth a fortune, as it is, someone may need it for parts..  Treat that like the Hope Diamond... you need to find out what it is..


----------



## erikmannie

woodchucker said:


> OMG.. That *looks like* a Stanley #1 , but it's missing the lever cap... it has some other type of cap (homemade maybe)...
> If that were intact it would be worth a fortune, as it is, someone may need it for parts..  Treat that like the Hope Diamond... you need to find out what it is..


Wow! Are you talking about the Stanley plane? It sure doesn’t look like it’s worth much.


----------



## Navy Chief

erikmannie said:


> Wow! Are you talking about the Stanley plane? It sure doesn’t look like it’s worth much.


If that is a Stanley #1 it is worth quite a bit... One was on my bucket list for a long time, never found one...

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## woodchucker

erikmannie said:


> Wow! Are you talking about the Stanley plane? It sure doesn’t look like it’s worth much.


yes.. it's still worth quite a bit in it's current state if it is truly a #1.. it looks like you have a plane iron with the  sweet heart logo.
This is what it should look like.. Does your iron have the SW in the heart?  You are missing that all important lever cap.  Don't modify it.
edit: For collectors (which I am not) it is the holy grail of hand planes...  It's too small for an adult hand..


----------



## erikmannie

woodchucker said:


> yes.. it's still worth quite a bit in it's current state if it is truly a #1.. it looks like you have a plane iron with the  sweet heart logo.
> This is what it should look like.. Does your iron have the SW in the heart?  You are missing that all important lever cap.  Don't modify it.
> edit: For collectors (which I am not) it is the holy grail of hand planes...  It's too small for an adult hand..
> View attachment 401062


Yes, it has the heart logo.


----------



## woodchucker

how about a pic of the front.. not sure what that piece is... but it looks like you have something to offer up to a collector..
DO NOT CLEAN IT... leave it as is.  but if you find the lever cap with the Wife... you are gold.


----------



## erikmannie

woodchucker said:


> how about a pic of the front.. not sure what that piece is... but it looks like you have something to offer up to a collector..
> DO NOT CLEAN IT... leave it as is.  but if you find the lever cap with the Wife... you are gold.


I will ask her if she has the lever cap. Here’s a picture of the front:


----------



## francist

My book is pretty dated, but in 1985 Stanley #1’s were seeing $450-$750 US at tool sales. Mint in box with original wrapper brought $1100.00 at a London auction.


----------



## woodchucker

They are going for more now. I have seen them with cap iron for 1100 in heavily used shape. so what mint used to be...  I don't know what mint brings now. You have to realize that the internet hypes up the values as more people can be involved. (not even ebay) but in collector forums.


----------



## Aukai

Got a MrWhoopee special with 5 plates, and extra top jaws


----------



## Badabinski

Got a Techniks 7/32"-3/4" ER32 collet set. My import collets don't really fit properly in my Iscar ER32 collet chuck so I figured it was time for an upgrade!


----------



## woodchucker

Badabinski said:


> Got a Techniks 7/32"-3/4" ER32 collet set. My import collets don't really fit properly in my Iscar ER32 collet chuck so I figured it was time for an upgrade!
> 
> View attachment 401167


so you're going to have to let us know how they are after using them.

I have Chineese er32s some don't eject with the nut... after spending time with them. I measured the top lip and found them to not be large enough, it's not the nut, it's the collet. Thinking of upgrading the most important ones


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> so you're going to have to let us know how they are after using them.
> 
> I have Chineese er32s some don't eject with the nut... after spending time with them. I measured the top lip and found them to not be large enough, it's not the nut, it's the collet. Thinking of upgrading the most important ones


i along with you would be interested in how they are.. i will be using ER40 on the lathe a lot


----------



## ttabbal

I have a inch set of Techniks ER40. They are excellent on both lathe and mill. I went straight to them based on advice here and have been glad I did.


----------



## wachuko

I wonder how those Techniks compare to what Precision Matthews sell…. This is my next purchase and I am think about getting the chuck and collect set from them (PM)…


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> I wonder how those Techniks compare to what Precision Matthews sell…. This is my next purchase and I am think about getting the chuck and collect set from them (PM)…


i will have to do some repeated offset drilling, thinking i will use the block in the 4 jaw for that


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> I wonder how those Techniks compare to what Precision Matthews sell…. This is my next purchase and I am think about getting the chuck and collect set from them (PM)…


0.0002" TIR for Techniks, vs 0.0005" for PM.  Just happened to be looking at both.  I have an ER40 set tru chuck.  Currently making the back plate for it.  Going to have to buy some collets...


----------



## WobblyHand

You really need to get a by 32nds set for ER40s.  Collapse range is 1mm and you really don't want to do that to your good collets.  1/16" is 0.0625, which is over 1mm.  So a standard by 1/16" set will have holes in it.


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> I wonder how those Techniks compare to what Precision Matthews sell…. This is my next purchase and I am think about getting the chuck and collect set from them (PM)…


looks like AllIndustrial has them on sale




__





						Products - Tool Holding - Collets, Closers & Accessories - Collets - ER Collets - Page 1 - All Industrial Tool Supply
					






					allindustrial.com


----------



## WobblyHand

IamNotImportant said:


> looks like AllIndustrial has them on sale
> https://allindustrial.com/products/..._series:ER40/filter:type:precision$2520Collet


Their Techniks standard set is by 1/16" and is missing 13/16 and 15/16.  The PM set is by 1/16" from 1/8" to 1".  Both sets have gaps in them.


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> Their Techniks standard set is by 1/16" and is missing 13/16 and 15/16.  The PM set is by 1/16" from 1/8" to 1".  Both sets have gaps in them.


was just trying to help a brother out.. i see your point about 32nds


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> Their Techniks standard set is by 1/16" and is missing 13/16 and 15/16.  The PM set is by 1/16" from 1/8" to 1".  Both sets have gaps in them.


what about this? 









						T&O 15-923 ER40 1/8
					

A unique self-releasing system is built into the collet & clamping nut to eliminate cutting tools sticking in colletsFeaturesWide holding range of 1.0mm (.0394") collapse.Unique 8° taper design affords highest gripping power.(16) Jaws giving powerful gripping and parallel clamping.




					www.travers.com


----------



## WobblyHand

IamNotImportant said:


> was just trying to help a brother out.. i see your point about 32nds


Me too.  That's why I was pointing out the 32nds!  If you know that going it, it's ok.  Just didn't want him going gangbusters and being disappointed.


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> Me too.  That's why I was pointing out the 32nds!  If you know that going it, it's ok.  Just didn't want him going gangbusters and being disappointed.


----------



## WobblyHand

IamNotImportant said:


> what about this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> T&O 15-923 ER40 1/8
> 
> 
> A unique self-releasing system is built into the collet & clamping nut to eliminate cutting tools sticking in colletsFeaturesWide holding range of 1.0mm (.0394") collapse.Unique 8° taper design affords highest gripping power.(16) Jaws giving powerful gripping and parallel clamping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.travers.com


Besides the eye watering price, it seems to be a metric set, that also has imperial markings.  Not a true imperial set.  0.0005" TIR, which seems to be the standard precision.  So the sizes are by mm, not 32nds.  If I was buying a metric set, I'd shop around some more.


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> Besides the eye watering price, it seems to be a metric set, that also has imperial markings.  Not a true imperial set.  0.0005" TIR, which seems to be the standard precision.  So the sizes are by mm, not 32nds.  If I was buying a metric set, I'd shop around some more.


for my info, from whom do you suggest one should buy a set of them from?


----------



## WobblyHand

IamNotImportant said:


> for my info, from whom do you suggest one should buy a set of them from?


I don't know.  When I figure it out, it will probably be posted in this thread.


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> I don't know.  When I figure it out, it will probably be posted in this thread.


i will be interested in your findings


----------



## extropic

IamNotImportant said:


> for my info, from whom do you suggest one should buy a set of them from?



You always have to SHOP (Google) for the specs and the price that you want. offers change all the time.









						Techniks 04212IS | 18pc ER32 Collet Set 7/32"-3/4" X 1/32
					

We distribute top-quality industrial tools and machine shop supplies at the best prices. View our collection of CNC machinist supplies and tooling packages.




					allindustrial.com
				












						Techniks 04213IS | 13pc ER40 Collet Set 1/8"-1" X 1/32
					

We distribute top-quality industrial tools and machine shop supplies at the best prices. View our collection of CNC machinist supplies and tooling packages.




					allindustrial.com


----------



## IamNotImportant

extropic said:


> You always have to SHOP (Google) for the specs and the price that you want. offers change all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Techniks 04212IS | 18pc ER32 Collet Set 7/32"-3/4" X 1/32
> 
> 
> We distribute top-quality industrial tools and machine shop supplies at the best prices. View our collection of CNC machinist supplies and tooling packages.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> allindustrial.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Techniks 04213IS | 13pc ER40 Collet Set 1/8"-1" X 1/32
> 
> 
> We distribute top-quality industrial tools and machine shop supplies at the best prices. View our collection of CNC machinist supplies and tooling packages.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> allindustrial.com


i was over there on that page, missed that one..it is in 16ths


----------



## WobblyHand

IamNotImportant said:


> i was over there on that page, missed that one..it is in 16ths


That web page makes no sense.  The picture shows 18 collets, the listing is for 13 and they are by 1/16", (missing 13/16 and 15/16) and unlike what the title says.  So what exactly is being sold?


----------



## extropic

IamNotImportant said:


> i was over there on that page, missed that one..*it* is in 16ths



What, exactly, is "it"?

The 18 piece ER32 set, that I linked to, shows up fine for me.
The picture and the nomenclature *NOT* are congruent.
Only 16 collets in the picture.

Edit = *NOT*


----------



## WobblyHand

Nope.  The description isn't congruent.  It contradicts the title.


----------



## extropic

duplicate


----------



## extropic

WobblyHand said:


> Nope.  The description isn't congruent.  It contradicts the title.



You're right. Only 16 collets in the picture. OMG!
I don't think you should buy anything from such an irresponsible supplier.


----------



## wachuko

A few things arrived... 



and 23 piece R8 collect set...



Will be right back, got to get all this oil washed off my hands...


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> A few things arrived...
> 
> View attachment 401266
> 
> and 23 piece R8 collect set...
> View attachment 401268
> 
> 
> Will be right back, got to get all this oil washed off my hands...


----------



## Badabinski

Update: the collets fit beautifully into my Iscar collet chuck. The "click" when you have the collet correctly aligned and gently press is incredibly satisfying. The 1/2 shank tool slid easily into the uncompressed collet, and the action of tightening up the collet felt more... Definite, I guess? I'm used to my ER collets feeling squishy as they get tightened. Different beast, and well worth the spondulix spent. I bought my set from KBC: https://www.kbctools.com/itemdetail/7-520-04212


----------



## woodchucker

Badabinski said:


> Update: the collets fit beautifully into my Iscar collet chuck. The "click" when you have the collet correctly aligned and gently press is incredibly satisfying. The 1/2 shank tool slid easily into the uncompressed collet, and the action of tightening up the collet felt more... Definite, I guess? I'm used to my ER collets feeling squishy as they get tightened. Different beast, and well worth the spondulix spent. I bought my set from KBC: https://www.kbctools.com/itemdetail/7-520-04212


if you put a slightly smaller round into one, will it eject it after fully tightening it down?


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a *well used* plain back Bison 8” 3-jaw scroll chuck on eBay. It was $225 + tax + shipping for a total of $324. Actual UPS shipping from CT to CA was $79!

I could have bought a new chuck from China for a *lot* less, but I really like the Polish chucks that I have & use.

This is not going on a lathe. It is going on a welding positioner (a manually controlled rollout wheel).


----------



## woodchucker

damn, your going to ruin a good chuck..


----------



## erikmannie

woodchucker said:


> damn, your going to ruin a good chuck..


True, but it will see a tremendous amount of use in the positioner.

But no, probably not helping the resale value of the chuck:


----------



## wachuko

I want to start a few projects... figured this would come in handy... thought about making one, but I rather spend the time on the other projects....I might modify it and add holes for pins...


6" x 8" x 1/2" MIC 6 Aluminum Fixture


----------



## NCjeeper

^^^^
For those prices I don't blame you. Buying the material just to do it yourself would cost half of that.


----------



## mmcmdl

I thought someone on here made and sold them ???


----------



## wachuko

mmcmdl said:


> I thought someone on here made and sold them ???


Ohh... did not know...  Who is it?

Let me search on it...

EDIT:  Is that @Jake2465 ? - https://www.daytoncncproducts.com/









						The fixture plates and clamps
					

Mic6 alu plate will get you a long way to the tolerances you're after and I think it might be a little harder (not to machine though) than regular 6061. Not 100% sure on that last part, but I know that mic 6 is used for fixture and tooling plates where higher tolerances are required, but not so...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




Arghhh.... @mmcmdl - you are guilting me into buying another one... I see...


----------



## mmcmdl

Not sure who it was , but easy to make one also . I wouldn't go drilling and tapping all the holes though . Drill and tap when a job comes along .


----------



## IamNotImportant

what can i use this for?


wachuko said:


> I want to start a few projects... figured this would come in handy... thought about making one, but I rather spend the time on the other projects....I might modify it and add holes for pins...
> 
> 
> 6" x 8" x 1/2" MIC 6 Aluminum Fixture
> 
> View attachment 401472


Can you make some threaded pins so that you don't have any blind holes that are hard to clean out?


----------



## woodchucker

IamNotImportant said:


> what can i use this for?
> 
> Can you make some threaded pins so that you don't have any blind holes that are hard to clean out?


Why blind holes?
Threaded holes are not as true as pin holes.  Pin holes should be much truer to 90  A thread has play. A pin hole is reamed, and accurate.


----------



## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> what can i use this for?
> 
> Can you make some threaded pins so that you don't have any blind holes that are hard to clean out?


Use it for holding down parts without having to deal with t-slots... just easier to clamp something down to the table and minimize the mistakes a newbie like me can make that would drive a cutting tool into the table... reason why these are call sacrificial plates...

I like the idea of just using threaded pins... I do not know enough to comment on the difference of doing that vs using just pins...  

Well, I see Jeff replied!  Thank you!



woodchucker said:


> Why blind holes?
> Threaded holes are not as true as pin holes.  Pin holes should be much truer to 90  A thread has play. A pin hole is reamed, and accurate.


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> Why blind holes?
> Threaded holes are not as true as pin holes.  Pin holes should be much truer to 90  A thread has play. A pin hole is reamed, and accurate.


i am just trowing stuff out there.. it is a learning process for me when it comes to "fixture" plates and the like..


----------



## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> i am just trowing stuff out there.. it is a learning process for me when it comes to "fixture" plates and the like..


Same here... learning as I go


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> Why blind holes?
> Threaded holes are not as true as pin holes.  Pin holes should be much truer to 90  A thread has play. A pin hole is reamed, and accurate.


i think if done right, even though it may not be as accurate as a "reamed" hole. My initial thoughts were that with a threaded pin, you can put them in any hole on the plate, also, to the degree of "accuracy" might be different for some cases.. if that be the case. Then maybe two different ones then, eh?


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> Same here... learning as I go


i have had a lathe an a mill before, but i was making simple things.. mostly round stuff.. that is fixing to change


----------



## woodchucker

IamNotImportant said:


> i think if done right, even though it may not be as accurate as a "reamed" hole. My initial thoughts were that with a threaded pin, you can put them in any hole on the plate, also, to the degree of "accuracy" might be different for some cases.. if that be the case. Then maybe two different ones then, eh?


if just needed to hold it yes, but if looking for repeatability, lets say you square  your mill to the pins.. using a parallel.
You can be sure that they won't loosen and shift your datum.

I don't disagree that threaded pins can be useful. I am just saying that reamed holes that pins fit into are well , another way, maybe the preferred way.. But threaded are not wrong.  I would not use a blind hole on these plates. You want to be able to clean them  of swarf.

There's always more than one way, to do a process. Opinions are mine, and not necessarily correct.


----------



## mmcmdl

I have had quite a few different fixture plates over the years . Plenty of which were just the same as the one posted . It works good as is and IS sacraficial . My good plates were hardened and ground plates with threads and also stand off studs that parts could be clamped to . This allowed insert mills and drills to penetrate part without machining into the table and allow the insert drill slugs to go thru the clearance . An overlay chart of part and pin locations was used . It does make sense and works great , but I'm sure my explanations suck trying to explain it .


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> I would not use a blind hole on these plates. You want to be able to clean them  of swarf.


I have read this statement from you before, which is the impetus to my thought about threaded pins


----------



## IamNotImportant

But if you must know.. the reason i got on here today is, i need to order some 14/4 stranded and some 10/3 for the lathe set up.. and i can not find any 14/4 stranded in this town.. 10/3 is contractor size rolls.. i don't need that either!


----------



## mmcmdl

This is commonly called a sub plate for a mill and is nothing special . It's aluminum and can be cut into and then re-surfaced as necessary . A true table fixture requires alot of work and you don't want to be cutting into it . It really depends on what type of work , repetitive jobs and how much $$$$ you want to stick into it .   I probably had 100 + hours into one and sold it on Ebay years back . I think I got 8 bucks for it .  I wish I had it back now .


----------



## extropic

IamNotImportant said:


> But if you must know.. the reason i got on here today is, i need to order some 14/4 stranded and some 10/3 for the lathe set up.. and i can not find any 14/4 stranded in this town.. 10/3 is contractor size rolls.. i don't need that either!



Try ordering from McMaster-Carr.


----------



## IamNotImportant

extropic said:


> Try ordering from McMaster-Carr.


i will thanks


----------



## IamNotImportant

This lil fella followed me home today


----------



## Watchwatch

wachuko said:


> I want to start a few projects... figured this would come in handy... thought about making one, but I rather spend the time on the other projects....I might modify it and add holes for pins...
> 
> 
> 6" x 8" x 1/2" MIC 6 Aluminum Fixture
> 
> View attachment 401472




That’s a great deal. I spent more hours than I want to count on a similar. And broke a tap.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## woodchucker

extropic said:


> Try ordering from McMaster-Carr.


I usually go to cooper electric for that. I believe them to be a national chain?


----------



## Badabinski

I bought an older (1980s) Kennedy 520 toolbox off of Etsy. I want to be able to bring a fair amount of tooling to my local maker space, and my Husky toolbox just didn't have the capacity (plus, it's too heavy! 58 pounds at the moment). I see why people love Kennedy boxes so much...


----------



## Badabinski

woodchucker said:


> if you put a slightly smaller round into one, will it eject it after fully tightening it down?


I just tested it on a ⅜"-16 bolt (OD is .01 undersized) in a ⅜" collet and it self ejected beautifully.


----------



## woodchucker

Badabinski said:


> I just tested it on a ⅜"-16 bolt (OD is .01 undersized) in a ⅜" collet and it self ejected beautifully.


.001 is not much...


----------



## Badabinski

woodchucker said:


> .001 is not much...


Ten thou under, not one thou. My cheapy import collets in my import chucks would fail to self eject with a difference that small. I'd have to loosen the nut with the wrench, spin it a few times by hand, and then put the wrench back on to pop it. No such problem with these.

Edit: I would have tried with something smaller, but I don't have anything to hand. Only had 20 minutes of shop time today, so I didn't have time to turn something down.


----------



## woodchucker

Badabinski said:


> Ten thou under, not one thou. My cheapy import collets in my import chucks would fail to self eject with a difference that small. I'd have to loosen the nut with the wrench, spin it a few times by hand, and then put the wrench back on to pop it. No such problem with these.


oh, sorry, I mis-read that.  *cool*.
My imports I need to whack with a soft faced hammer.  Only a few, they don't have the lip to proper size...
10 thou is pretty good. Not all of mine fail..


----------



## brino

IamNotImportant said:


> This lil fella followed me home today



What are you using for bait?
What ever it is I gotta get me some!

Brian


----------



## Jim F

I have an Indicol indicator holder with a B&S black face .0005 DTI attached and a Starrett 0-1"disc mic on the way.


----------



## IamNotImportant

brino said:


> What are you using for bait?
> What ever it is I gotta get me some!
> 
> Brian


----------



## Jim F

Jim F said:


> scored a follow rest for my SB9, $150 shipped.
> Pics when it gets here.


Does not fit a SB 9, only markings is a dot 11 then a dot.thinking it fits a 11 0r 12"
will send pics if anyone wants/needs.
Asking what I spent.


----------



## woodchucker

bought a spark plug cleaner at a garage sale yesterday, along with a drop spreader ... I have a bunch of work to do on the drop spreader, I need it to put down milky spores, I'm tired of paying through the nose for grub-ex.. We have a huge grub problem here.

The spark plug cleaner is a HF unit. brand new... never used.  I had to fix the spring mechanism, poorly designed, I drilled a hole and put a self tapping screw in 4 oclock and 1/8" from the bar that allows media to enter. That way the spring will actually work. I tried bending it around and decided it was not happening, so the screw served the purpose. Then I found that it was leaking. I used soapy water and luckily had it on a mat, and saw the bubbles coming out from underneath, not the fitting. Turns out the casting had a void where there were two holes. I ground it out and tried aluminum braze rod.. it would not stick. I think it might be a zinc casting.  So I wound up using JB weld... I'm anxious to try it. I see a lot of write ups about it failing, but I'll bet a lot of people don't follow the instructions, you need to mount this upright, so the media can suck in, and if you don't you aren't going to get it clean... one area of the instructions say mount it on bench, and another says it needs to be on a wall... it definitely needs a wall.




edit: Yes it works, it works very well. good buy for $3.




after about 15 seconds of cleaning. These were black and white. I don't know how long I need to clean it.
but I'm happy now.


----------



## Gaffer

In my limited lathe work, I've only used HSS tools, but have a few carbide tool holders that came with the lathes I've accumulated. Anyway, I picked up a bunch of new old stock from a friend for a favorable price. I bought @davidpbest 's book several weeks ago and am working through it. It's very well done as others have posted.  With this tooling purchase were several brazed carbide tools and a Sandvik boring bar. He also threw in a gallon of way oil! There's more stuff here than I need, and I'll probably have to look for a tool holder or two for some of the inserts, but others fit my holders fine. Most of it is Kennametal, but the others are quality too. I'm happy with it!






Dare I forget the foot-operated air valve. I've wanted one of these for my 20-ton press but hadn't made the effort to buy one. It has an air-over hydraulic jack with a hand-operated valve. This will be a great addition.


----------



## BROCKWOOD

Whenever I'm in the area, i like to stop at my Grandparents old place. It's now all grown up with trees everywhere & has the beginnings of an illegal dump site. This is what trash I hauled off today:




I don't think I got even half of what was there. It's marked A36 & is 1-1/2 x 12". I know the thread is "What [Tool] Did You Buy Today". I bought these (whatever tools I make) for free!


----------



## IamNotImportant

BROCKWOOD said:


> Whenever I'm in the area, i like to stop at my Grandparents old place. It's now all grown up with trees everywhere & has the beginnings of an illegal dump site. This is what trash I hauled off today:
> 
> View attachment 401943
> 
> 
> I don't think I got even half of what was there. It's marked A36 & is 1-1/2 x 12". I know the thread is "What [Tool] Did You Buy Today". I bought these (whatever tools I make) for free!


When i was at the local scrap house the other day.. i saw quite a few about that size in a bin.. out of tolerance.. might grab a few..


----------



## francist

1/4”- 20 you think, or maybe 5/16”…?


----------



## mmcmdl

francist said:


> 1/4”- 20 you think, or maybe 5/16”…?


And well seasoned to boot !   That's a lot of G-jobs sitting there .


----------



## Kiwi Canuck

BROCKWOOD said:


> Whenever I'm in the area, i like to stop at my Grandparents old place. It's now all grown up with trees everywhere & has the beginnings of an illegal dump site. This is what trash I hauled off today:
> 
> View attachment 401943
> 
> 
> I don't think I got even half of what was there. It's marked A36 & is 1-1/2 x 12". I know the thread is "What [Tool] Did You Buy Today". I bought these (whatever tools I make) for free!


Interested to know what that motorcycle is, looks to be something Japanese and from the 70's

David


----------



## BROCKWOOD

Kiwi Canuck it's a 72 Yamaha RD200.


----------



## woodchucker

BROCKWOOD said:


> Kiwi Canuck it's a 72 Yamaha RD200.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 401947


2 cycle... Old style... I love old style.. My type of ride, but I need bigger. small is great for tearing up a windy road, but I need more underneath me.  That's a cool ride...


----------



## BROCKWOOD

@ woodchucker. It is in really good condition for a 72 - something my 5' tall wife wanted. But, yeah we prefer old school cool!


----------



## Winegrower

This is a combination of bought then made.   I bid on a collection of 110 slitting saws on eBay, new old stock, and the bidding went past me pretty fast.   After it closed, I got a note from the seller that he had another set just the same, and offered it to me for $145.  Done.   There were actually 135 blades in what I got, nicely covering 0.014“ to 0.130”, with each thickness offering a range of diameters and arbor sizes.   These will last me for awhile.     I think I will make up a few kits with one of each size for friends.

There are 6 different arbor hole sizes, and while my standard arbors fit most, they are generally too big and clumsy for these small blades.   I will make new arbors with just the very minimal dimensions needed so that the kerf depth is maximum and the shank is as long as possible.

But now what, how to store these?   In some desperation I table sawed a V out of a scrap 2x4, cut up the out cut for end stops and brad nailed them in.   Now I have the blades sorted left to right, thin to thick, can thumb through as needed.   To keep them standing up tight, I cut more from the out cut to make space fillers.  This torned out to be quick, free, very usable and space efficient.

Now on to the arbors…


----------



## BROCKWOOD

@ Winegrower: Simple & effective organization!!!


----------



## extropic

@Winegrower 

Great haul on the slitting saws.
I would be concerned that the moisture retained by the wood will effect the teeth in contact.
I would get a square foot of felt, soak it with oil, lay it in the V and use the excess as cover flaps to keep debris from collecting.


----------



## Kiwi Canuck

BROCKWOOD said:


> Kiwi Canuck it's a 72 Yamaha RD200.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 401947


Wow that looks like it's in awesome condition and complete, those little 2 strokes are starting to fetch really good money.

I love the colour scheme, very desirable.

I've seen some going for stupid money lately and the prices are climbing.

David


----------



## Winegrower

extropic said:


> I would be concerned that the moisture retained by the wood will effect the teeth in contact.
> I would get a square foot of felt, soak it with oil, lay it in the V and use the excess as cover flaps to keep debris from collecting.


That's a thought, for sure.  It's an aged wood, quite dry.   The blades only touch on two tangent points, and as you can see in the picture I use wood for collet holders and other things, so far never a problem, but I appreciate your point.   Remember this is California.   What I think is that if it ever got that humid here, I would be delighted.


----------



## 682bear

Delivered last Friday... just found time to unbox them this morning...




NMTB50... 1 each in 3/4", 7/8", 1", and 1-1/2". New... I had to wipe the cosmoline off of them.

I have a 1-1/4" ordered... it isn't new, though. 

-Bear


----------



## IamNotImportant

Winegrower said:


> This is a combination of bought then made.   I bid on a collection of 110 slitting saws on eBay, new old stock, and the bidding went past me pretty fast.   After it closed, I got a note from the seller that he had another set just the same, and offered it to me for $145.  Done.   There were actually 135 blades in what I got, nicely covering 0.014“ to 0.130”, with each thickness offering a range of diameters and arbor sizes.   These will last me for awhile.     I think I will make up a few kits with one of each size for friends.
> 
> There are 6 different arbor hole sizes, and while my standard arbors fit most, they are generally too big and clumsy for these small blades.   I will make new arbors with just the very minimal dimensions needed so that the kerf depth is maximum and the shank is as long as possible.
> 
> But now what, how to store these?   In some desperation I table sawed a V out of a scrap 2x4, cut up the out cut for end stops and brad nailed them in.   Now I have the blades sorted left to right, thin to thick, can thumb through as needed.   To keep them standing up tight, I cut more from the out cut to make space fillers.  This torned out to be quick, free, very usable and space efficient.
> 
> Now on to the arbors…
> 
> View attachment 401964
> 
> 
> View attachment 401965
> View attachment 401966


All i can say is.. Nice!


----------



## DavidR8

Picked up this chunk of structural steel for $20
1/4" x 4” x 8” x 72” long
Was/is a lintel for a construction project but the notches should have been put on the short flange.


----------



## 682bear

A few e-bay buys...

6 VPGR 332 inserts...




A Yuasa NMTB50 1-1/4" end mill holder...




And a new MT3 long nose live center...




-Bear


----------



## erikmannie

My Dad and I just spent 2 hours going to the steel yard, & I spent $350 on steel. It took one guy 90 minutes to cut the material (they assign one worker to each customer).

I bought all of the parts to finish the rollout wheel arm on my welding fixture stand.

I also bought all the parts for a height adjustable stand to support the weight of any arm on this fixture stand.

Finally, I bought 2 plate welding coupons. One of them is 1” thick and 12” square (cut in half). That is a monster coupon if I have ever seen one! I will re-use this ($100!) coupon dozens of times over the next several years.

The other plate welding coupon was scrap at $1.25/lb.: it is a 3/4” thick  rectangle.


----------



## NCjeeper

Ouch. Scrap used to be 50 cents a pound.


----------



## 682bear

My old Taft-Peirce surface grinder is on it's last legs, so I've been looking around just to see what is available. I didn't think I would find anything local, at least without waiting and watching for a while...

But I was wrong... I went and picked this up this morning...







It was a little more than I wanted to spend, but a Micromaster was on my short list of grinders to watch for, it was local, (@35 miles), and it's an 818 instead of a 618... who doesn't need an extra 2 inches every now and then?

Now I have to figure out how to get it off the trailer...

-Bear


----------



## DavidR8

Nice! I think @Janderso may have a similar machine if not the same.


----------



## 682bear

DavidR8 said:


> Nice! I think @Janderso may have a similar machine if not the same.



Yes, and I think @mmcmdl has one, also... and there may be a few more on here...

-Bear


----------



## wachuko

This arrived.  The fixture plate is for the G0704.... I will order a larger one from Dayton CNC when he has them back in stock...  Book is to start learning how to make gears...




And I ordered the following:

2 Sets of Shars machinist jacks - I know, I know I should have made them... Eventually, I will.  But the first two set, at 19.95 each, I decided to buy them.  The shame, the shame...




22mm R8 Shank Milling Arbor Gear Mill Cutter Holder




8pcs HSS M1 Diameter 22mm PA20° 20 Degree #1-8 Involute Gear Cutters Set



4 jaw Self Centering Mini Lathe Chuck 65mm With MT 2 Shank Arbor




Chicago Latrobe - 69900 157 Series High-Speed Steel Short Length Drill Bit Set with Metal Case 118 Degree Conventional Point, Inch, 29-piece, 1/16" - 1/2" in 1/64" increments - I had some credits in Amazon and decided to grab this set...




Noga NG9500 24 Pc Platinum Box Deburring Set - since I started in this hobby, I wanted this kit... I just gave in today and added it to the cart...


----------



## WobblyHand

Received my 1-26mm ER40 collet set from PM.  After deciding that I didn't need 0.0002" TIR, nor its associated cost, I investigated a couple of eBay offers.  They all failed to answer what TIR their collets were, or had math problems with converting from um to inches.  A seller told me that the TIR of their collets was less than 0.009".  Another seller advised me to look carefully at the pictures in the listing, rather than answer my questions, which were asking for the guaranteed TIR, and if they had a local US address to make returns.  Since the eBay items were all far east based, I decided that I just didn't want to be stuck with crummy collets, and went with the PM offering.  PM guarantees 0.0005" TIR, and my past experience with them has been very positive.  This is a heavy little case, weighing 15.5 lbs, but it is only 8.5" x 14.5" x 3".


I'm guessing I will get some inch collets as needs be.  

With any luck, I will get my replacement set tru ER40 collet chuck tomorrow.  My first ER40 chuck had a poor taper, which I documented in a different thread.  When Shars saw my photos, they apologized and immediately shipped me a replacement.


----------



## mmcmdl

682bear said:


> My old Taft-Peirce surface grinder is on it's last legs, so I've been looking around just to see what is available. I didn't think I would find anything local, at least without waiting and watching for a while...
> 
> But I was wrong... I went and picked this up this morning...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a little more than I wanted to spend, but a Micromaster was on my short list of grinders to watch for, it was local, (@35 miles), and it's an 818 instead of a 618... who doesn't need an extra 2 inches every now and then?
> 
> Now I have to figure out how to get it off the trailer...
> 
> -Bear


If the wind blows right and the river doesn't rise too high HOPFULLY I'll get back into the basement this summer . I'm out looking for toys at this point . I may have another " kid in the candy store " opportunity . We'll see , it's going to happen fast .  

Nice grinder bear , I see subtle differences in yours and mine / Jeffs and bemmy's . That may be a newer model or older model , not sure . Either way , you're going to love it .

Edit . Just noticed it's an 818 and not a 618 !


----------



## Papa Charlie

So I needed some round stock for a project that I have coming up for my lathe. So went down the to the Hydraulic repair shop in town and purchased two pieces of hydraulic cylinder rod. Each are 3" in diameter, chrome plated. One is about 12" in length and the other is about 16"-18".
The asking price was some money for the shop coffee fund. I gave them $20. They in turn said I'm welcome back any time. Real nice people.
They had another piece that was 3" dia x probably 5', and some other stuff. May go back and get those too.


----------



## Badabinski

I bought another Harbor Freight toolbox. I plan to mount a bench grinder on top of it since it's relatively far away from my mill and lathe. I have some ideas around shielding, because I don't want to fill the cabinet up with grinding dust. Plus, more room for TOOLS!
	

		
			
		

		
	



I'll also take a moment to say goodbye to the little Grizzly G8689 mill that was taking up this space. It was a good mill to learn on, and hopefully it'll be good for the coworker I gave it to:


----------



## Aaron_W

Badabinski said:


> I'll also take a moment to say goodbye to the little Grizzly G8689 mill that was taking up this space. It was a good mill to learn on, and hopefully it'll be good for the coworker I gave it to:
> View attachment 402438



The first one is always free, that is how they get you hooked.

Remember kids, just say no!


----------



## woodchucker

Aaron_W said:


> The first one is always free, that is how they get you hooked.
> 
> Remember kids, just say no!


Mine wasn't free... did I miss something???    but still hooked like a fish.


----------



## mmcmdl

woodchucker said:


> Mine wasn't free... did I miss something???   but still hooked like a fish.


For life also !   Don't feel bad Jeff , we all are .


----------



## wachuko

mmcmdl said:


> For life also !   Don't feel bad Jeff , we all are .





Aaron_W said:


> The first one is always free, that is how they get you hooked.
> 
> Remember kids, just say no!





woodchucker said:


> Mine wasn't free... did I miss something???    but still hooked like a fish.



I was always told, free or paid, the machine was just the downpayment...


----------



## Janderso

682bear said:


> My old Taft-Peirce surface grinder is on it's last legs, so I've been looking around just to see what is available. I didn't think I would find anything local, at least without waiting and watching for a while...
> 
> But I was wrong... I went and picked this up this morning...
> 
> View attachment 402334
> 
> 
> View attachment 402335
> 
> 
> It was a little more than I wanted to spend, but a Micromaster was on my short list of grinders to watch for, it was local, (@35 miles), and it's an 818 instead of a 618... who doesn't need an extra 2 inches every now and then?
> 
> Now I have to figure out how to get it off the trailer...
> 
> -Bear


I have the 618 Micromaster. You did very well. It looks like it’s had an easy life and well cared for.
At 35 miles from home, it was meant to be.


----------



## 682bear

Janderso said:


> I have the 618 Micromaster. You did very well. It looks like it’s had an easy life and well cared for.
> At 35 miles from home, it was meant to be.




I'm still trying to figure out how to get it off the trailer... I may have to rent a forklift...

-Bear


----------



## mmcmdl

682bear said:


> I'm still trying to figure out how to get it off the trailer... I may have to rent a forklift...


The 618 was pretty heavy bear . It lifted the ass end of a Bobcat off the ground ! We had 5 people and quite a few brake rotors on the rear at that point also . I'm guess 2500 minimum on that .


----------



## woodchucker

mmcmdl said:


> The 618 was pretty heavy bear . It lifted the ass end of a Bobcat off the ground ! We had 5 people and quite a few brake rotors on the rear at that point also . I'm guess 2500 minimum on that .


Are there lifting eyes on that?  How about a tow truck to lift it off. Cheaper than a crane


----------



## mmcmdl

woodchucker said:


> Are there lifting eyes on that? How about a tow truck to lift it off. Cheaper than a crane


Not sure about the lifting eyes , but I think not . There are two very small ledges on the bottom casting that the forks would catch . I beam clamped the forks so they wouldn't spread while lifting just in case . It is a heavy machine , a lot more than the Lagun FTV-2 mill which I THOUGHT was heavy !


----------



## 682bear

woodchucker said:


> Are there lifting eyes on that?  How about a tow truck to lift it off. Cheaper than a crane




There is no possible way to lift it from the top... it has to be lifted from underneath.

Even lifting it with a forklift is a little sketchy... the front lift 'ledge' underneath is not really ideal. It would be too easy to let the fork slip off that ledge.

Also, it is top heavy... it was very 'tippy' as we were loading it on the trailer.

I'll figure it out... I really don't have a choice, do I? Lol...

-Bear


----------



## 682bear

mmcmdl said:


> The 618 was pretty heavy bear . It lifted the ass end of a Bobcat off the ground ! We had 5 people and quite a few brake rotors on the rear at that point also . I'm guess 2500 minimum on that .



From what I've read, 2500 is about right for the 618... the 818 is 3000 or a little more...

-Bear


----------



## mmcmdl

682bear said:


> It would be too easy to let the fork slip off that ledge.


Yes , same as the 618 . Like I said , I clamped the forks with a couple beam clamps and also added a few ratchet straps so the forks couldn't slip . And yes , it is top heavy also . Not the easiest thing I've ever loaded or unloaded .


----------



## woodchucker

see if you can find a manual showing the lifting positions.


----------



## mmcmdl

woodchucker said:


> see if you can find a manual showing the lifting positions.


I have the original manuals but you know how that goes ...............................

We don't need no schtinkin manuals !


----------



## Janderso

woodchucker said:


> Are there lifting eyes on that?  How about a tow truck to lift it off. Cheaper than a crane


According to the manual you sling it from the bottom with straps and lift overhead.
Do not strap down the table!!
You an get two forks under it as well.
See pic.
The slot to the left and the flat in the front.
This is 2,700#
I should clarify, this is the 618 Micromaster, two way autofeed.
It holds 15 gallons of hydraulic fluid, way oil. =120#


----------



## mmcmdl

Janderso said:


> This is 2,700#


No wonder it lifted the Bobcat off the ground  I knew it was heavier than the mills , but didn't realize it was that much heavier . But again , they are sweet grinders .


----------



## Papa Charlie

682bear said:


> There is no possible way to lift it from the top... it has to be lifted from underneath.
> 
> Even lifting it with a forklift is a little sketchy... the front lift 'ledge' underneath is not really ideal. It would be too easy to let the fork slip off that ledge.
> 
> Also, it is top heavy... it was very 'tippy' as we were loading it on the trailer.
> 
> I'll figure it out... I really don't have a choice, do I? Lol...
> 
> -Bear


You can work it off the trailer pretty simply.
Hook onto the two opposite lifting points and anchor the bitter end of the chain (I would not use rope as it stretches) to something in the garage or shop. Pull the vehicle forward to get the unit so that you have about 3-4" hanging off the back. Stop at this point and ensure that the you are creating no slack in the chain. Stack some drayage under the base that is hanging over the edge. If it were me I would stack the drayage in creating a square that protrudes under the trailer with the final single top plank holding the grinder. Then carefully pull forward ensuring that the grinder is resting securely on the highest point of the drayage stack. As you move forward, place additional planks between the stack and the grinder. Eventually the grinder will be supported by the stack of drayage. Once you get to this stage, use an jack to raise one end at a time and remove one plank then set it down and move to the other end. Eventually you will be on the floor, or at least almost with the final two pieces supporting it. You can use a pry bar to lift the machine to remove the final two pieces.
I have moved some very large pieces of machinery this way as the machinery is always supported.


----------



## Janderso

They are top heavy. A three point stance allows for good stability and easy balancing.
When we trailered this to my shop it was a nightmare. At one point I stopped to check the load, I was seconds away from it tipping over.

We adjusted the load and made it safe and sound after we replaced a bad tire on the trailer. A 30 mile detour at 15 mph 
A very memorable day.
Thank you Bob Korves and Jim George!!


----------



## woodchucker

Janderso said:


> They are top heavy. A three point stance allows for good stability and easy balancing.
> When we trailered this to my shop it was a nightmare. At one point I stopped to check the load, I was seconds away from it tipping over.
> 
> We adjusted the load and made it safe and sound after we replaced a bad tire on the trailer. A 30 mile detour at 15 mph
> A very memorable day.
> Thank you Bob Korves and Jim George!!


Speaking of Bob, I haven't seen a post by him in a while..


----------



## FOMOGO

My son brought these US general top boxes up from Denver for me Friday, and finally got a chance to start loading up one of them, mostly with tools I shipped back from PR. Really liking the extra deep drawers. Still a ton of other tools to bring down from the other garage, but just a piker compared to Dave. May even get the table I've been using for tools cleared off enough to actually have a clear space for work here in the new shop. Mike


----------



## woodchucker

I remember not too long ago, maybe 6 or so years ago, the top and bottom were going for under 350.
Less than craftsman, now you can only touch the bottom for that price.


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> I remember not too long ago, maybe 6 or so years ago, the top and bottom were going for under 350.
> Less than craftsman, now you can only touch the bottom for that price.


some bottoms are way more than that!


----------



## Janderso

woodchucker said:


> Speaking of Bob, I haven't seen a post by him in a while..


We just found out he’s having some health issues.
Bob, if you are read this, please know you are in my thoughts!


----------



## Janderso

FOMOGO said:


> My son brought these US general top boxes up from Denver for me Friday, and finally got a chance to start loading up one of them, mostly with tools I shipped back from PR. Really liking the extra deep drawers. Still a ton of other tools to bring down from the other garage, but just a piker compared to Dave. May even get the table I've been using for tools cleared off enough to actually have a clear space for work here in the new shop. Mike
> 
> View attachment 402546
> View attachment 402547
> View attachment 402548
> View attachment 402549
> View attachment 402550


I have one. I love the deep drawers and the smooth drawer movement.
Nice score


----------



## 682bear

woodchucker said:


> Speaking of Bob, I haven't seen a post by him in a while..



I was thinking the same thing last night...



Janderso said:


> We just found out he’s having some health issues.
> Bob, if you are read this, please know you are in my thoughts!



I hope it's nothing too serious.

-Bear


----------



## Doug Gray

My Diamond tool holder finally arrived from Australia. I picked up the right-hand version, as well as a round tool bit. The tool comes with a grinding jig, Allen wrench and shop sticker. The tool bit has one flat face. The tool has very interesting geometry, it uses standard square tooling, yet the way the tool is presented to the work the corner is at 80 degrees allowing turning and facing with the same set up. looking forward to putting this tool through its paces. (ie to go off on a tangent  )





__





						Eccentric Engineering
					





					www.eccentricengineering.com.au


----------



## WobblyHand

My replacement ER40 set tru chuck from Shars came today.  The ER40 taper is in MUCH better shape.  I need to pack up the reject chuck and return it to Shars.  They provided a free return shipping label.




Much happier camper.  Even have collets to use in it now.  Yes, I tried the collet for fit!


----------



## IamNotImportant

well i received this in the mail.. it will be the new control box for the lathe.. now i can get the buttons and switches to mount in it..



so that when done it will look a lot this


----------



## IamNotImportant

just found a place that has 7K square feet of stuff like this.. if you had access to this, what would you acquire for possible shop use..


----------



## Doug Gray

I just purchased  some dollar store meat loaf pans ... I use them all the time for storage around the shop.

These may be useful for shop storage


----------



## wachuko

Awesome Vise Speed Handle Deal - Made in USA
					

I wanted to share my experience with an awesome vise speed handle I recently received.  I am new to the hobby and found a round column mill locally off Craigslist for a decent price.  I needed a vise and since money IS an object, I bought a 4" import vise off Amazon.   It is no Kurt, but the...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




Yeah, could not resist... ordered one as well... for the Kurt vise


----------



## IamNotImportant

Doug Gray said:


> I just purchased  some dollar store meat loaf pans ... I use them all the time for storage around the shop.
> 
> These may be useful for shop storage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 402612


that's what i am thinking.. as i make parts in batches, i can separate them


----------



## Eyerelief

I like those baskets with holes in them for the parts washer.  Or to make a parts washer if they have a matching tub for them to sit in.  If I was making a parts washer, I would try for a lid as well.  Also a couple of shallow trays to put parts in to dry, keep disassembles organized.  Good stuff!


----------



## IamNotImportant

Eyerelief said:


> I like those baskets with holes in them for the parts washer.  Or to make a parts washer if they have a matching tub for them to sit in.  If I was making a parts washer, I would try for a lid as well.  Also a couple of shallow trays to put parts in to dry, keep disassembles organized.  Good stuff!


that's a great idea.. thanks for that!


----------



## Janderso

IamNotImportant said:


> just found a place that has 7K square feet of stuff like this.. if you had access to this, what would you acquire for possible shop use..
> 
> View attachment 402611


If you had to buy stainless steel kitchen hardware you would pay$$$$$ big time!
Shop use, I think I would grab a few of the pans and round, square and rectangular pieces.
You can make things out of the SS. If it’s cheap take advantage of the opportunity


----------



## Papa Charlie

IamNotImportant said:


> just found a place that has 7K square feet of stuff like this.. if you had access to this, what would you acquire for possible shop use..
> 
> View attachment 402611


I use small SS pans and containers for different things. I have some that are more like doctor type rectangular pans with lids that are great for holding special items or sometimes for soaking parts. I also have some that I use for cleaning gun parts, holding parts and fasteners when working on equipment and for general stuff. Some are allocated to reloading ammo as they are great for separating.
I see lots of lids for some of these, if you get any, make sure that you get the matching lids.
I could have a field day in a place like that.


----------



## 682bear

The grinder is off the trailer...

I'm not sure if this was really a good way to lift it, but it worked good...










I managed it without any damage to the trailer, the floor, the grinder, or me... nothing ever touched the table, spindle, or handles while raising and lowering it. It was actually easier than I thought it would be... but I'm always nervous when I have a machine swinging 3 feet off the floor.

-Bear


----------



## Christianstark

Total success!


----------



## woodchucker

Doug Gray said:


> My Diamond tool holder finally arrived from Australia. I picked up the right-hand version, as well as a round tool bit. The tool comes with a grinding jig, Allen wrench and shop sticker. The tool bit has one flat face. The tool has very interesting geometry, it uses standard square tooling, yet the way the tool is presented to the work the corner is at 80 degrees allowing turning and facing with the same set up. looking forward to putting this tool through its paces. (ie to go off on a tangent  )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eccentric Engineering
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.eccentricengineering.com.au
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 402588


I have watched a few videos where Mark Presling https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYfDX1Gno-PuJ-QWLbH09Sg cuts with that tool. Probably made by the original maker... It's always intrigued me... thanks for showing it. and the manufacturer.. I may pull the pin on that one.


----------



## Christianstark

woodchucker said:


> I have watched a few videos where Mark Presling https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYfDX1Gno-PuJ-QWLbH09Sg cuts with that tool. Probably made by the original maker... It's always intrigued me... thanks for showing it. and the manufacturer.. I may pull the pin on that one.


I am very interested to hear opinions on it as well. Keep us informed on your thoughts @Doug Gray


----------



## Doug Gray

Good overview of the tool here.


----------



## brino

IamNotImportant said:


> just found a place that has 7K square feet of stuff like this.. if you had access to this, what would you acquire for possible shop use..



Some great ideas above....... I'll add:

chip pans for lathe
chip/tool catchers for mill table
pot for water at the grinder (to replace all the steel cans that keep rusting thru)
a couple shallow pans for sorting bolts/nuts/washers (ie. dump the bin in and paw thru to find what you need and pour back in bin)
tool trays for beside the vehicle when doing brakes; keeps the rotor and wheel nuts out of the gravel and grit
big pan for oil, transmission, differential fluid changes

Brian


----------



## Papa Charlie

682bear said:


> The grinder is off the trailer...
> 
> I'm not sure if this was really a good way to lift it, but it worked good...
> 
> View attachment 402615
> 
> 
> View attachment 402616
> 
> 
> View attachment 402617
> 
> 
> I managed it without any damage to the trailer, the floor, the grinder, or me... nothing ever touched the table, spindle, or handles while raising and lowering it. It was actually easier than I thought it would be... but I'm always nervous when I have a machine swinging 3 feet off the floor.
> 
> -Bear


Nice, I thought when you said you didn't know how you were going to get the grinder off the trailer, you actually didn't have any lifting equipment. You are actually very well equipped. 
Glad you got her off. Enjoy.


----------



## Christianstark

Papa Charlie said:


> Nice, I thought when you said you didn't know how you were going to get the grinder off the trailer, you actually didn't have any lifting equipment. You are actually very well equipped.
> Glad you got her off. Enjoy.


You should see his basement. Not much he does not have 3 of ;-p


----------



## woodchucker

IamNotImportant said:


> just found a place that has 7K square feet of stuff like this.. if you had access to this, what would you acquire for possible shop use..
> 
> View attachment 402611


Me personally, I would pick up some deep pans for cleaning off machine parts.
I would also be looking for a stainless pan for my surface grinder... long and narrow... damn hard to find. I need it for the coolant tray, mine did not have a tray, and the one I made is AL and not working for me.. I can't get a drain to work w/out leaking. I need to solder the fitting on.


----------



## Aukai

Pans for soaking parts in Evapo-rust....


----------



## woodchucker

Aukai said:


> Pans for soaking parts in Evapo-rust....


I think you want to use plastic. I don't think you want the evapo rust in metal... I think it weakens it.


----------



## Aukai

I didn't think food grade SS reacted with the Evapo-Rust. I could be wrong, but that's never happened before


----------



## Jackle1312

Sheet pans work as work trays when taking things apart and help contain the parts and any oil. I use them when taking apart gearboxes and anything else that may make a mess. Makes clean up alot easier


----------



## Gnpenning

Awhile back a local auction had some restaurant equipment for sale. I bought some french fry baskets and use them for small parts in my solvent tank. See large deep pans with and out holes in the bottom as separators for meat and such in my chest freezer.  A few smaller pans for parts separation and organizing.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Janderso said:


> If you had to buy stainless steel kitchen hardware you would pay$$$$$ big time!
> Shop use, I think I would grab a few of the pans and round, square and rectangular pieces.
> You can make things out of the SS. If it’s cheap take advantage of the opportunity


it is all used stuff


----------



## IamNotImportant

brino said:


> Some great ideas above....... I'll add:
> 
> chip pans for lathe
> chip/tool catchers for mill table
> pot for water at the grinder (to replace all the steel cans that keep rusting thru)
> a couple shallow pans for sorting bolts/nuts/washers (ie. dump the bin in and paw thru to find what you need and pour back in bin)
> tool trays for beside the vehicle when doing brakes; keeps the rotor and wheel nuts out of the gravel and grit
> big pan for oil, transmission, differential fluid changes
> 
> Brian


yes.. i agree.. i will be going over there tomorrow.. got a guy coming to look at a mower i am selling.. will go after that.. or if late.. well before that time he comes


----------



## IamNotImportant

i just hope that it all is at a reasonable price so that i can come home with a lot of it


----------



## DAM 79

Ok all so I need some help with what I picked up today I ran across this on a whim I know is a dividing head but I didn’t see any model number also got some stock and lathe dogs expanding mandrel and reamers really trying to find some info on the dividing head


----------



## GunsOfNavarone

Anyone hear of COLTON Industrial? Made in the USA and not much more $ than China made. I just bought a couple AXA holders from them, I want to get more from them, but I had never heard of them so I'll see....Anyone?


----------



## Eyerelief

Do you have access to a coaxial indicator for your mill?  Handy tool to own


----------



## Illinoyance

6" Kitagawa 3 jaw D1-5


----------



## francist

DAM 79 said:


> Ok all so I need some help with what I picked up today I ran across this on a whim I know is a dividing head but I didn’t see any model number also got some stock and lathe dogs expanding mandrel and reamers really trying to find some info on the dividing head


You might find something in here that matches up with yours…





__





						Cincinnati Milling Machine Co. (Milacron) - Publication Reprints - Cincinnati Universal Dividing Heads and Accessories, Indexing Attachments - | VintageMachinery.org
					





					vintagemachinery.org
				




-frank


----------



## woodchucker

Doug Gray said:


> Good overview of the tool here.


I am not a fan of Chris's. Long winded, and always was unable to spend time in the shop for one reason or another.

But I guess because I clicked on this James Kilroy just came up ...
Later I'll take a pic of a diamond cutter I have, but it's different, and I don't use it.






edit : Here's a knock off diamond... I got this from a machinist...


----------



## DAM 79

Thanks I will look into that so this guy also has several more dividing heads for sale I’m think about going back and getting them !! One is a Dumore dividing,indexing head over never seen one before and I’m pretty sure these round collet type things went with it . I will have to try and find a pic of what it looked like 


francist said:


> You might find something in here that matches up with yours…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cincinnati Milling Machine Co. (Milacron) - Publication Reprints - Cincinnati Universal Dividing Heads and Accessories, Indexing Attachments - | VintageMachinery.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> vintagemachinery.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -frank


----------



## DAM 79

DAM 79 said:


> Thanks I will look into that so this guy also has several more dividing heads for sale I’m think about going back and getting them !! One is a Dumore dividing,indexing head over never seen one before and I’m pretty sure these round collet type things went with it . I will have to try and find a pic of what it looked like


It was this one .  Is it worth getting also ?? This man also has a south bend 10 with a lot of extras  it’s pretty dirty but all there if anyone is interested I can get his number . He also has a bunch of stock flat and round and stuff for blacksmith and some small collets that I don’t know what they are !! He’s looking to get rid of the rest and good prices !! He definitely made me some really good deals and I was a month late on what all he had I’m sure lost is on fleabay


----------



## Gnpenning

DAM 79 said:


> Ok all so I need some help with what I picked up today I ran across this on a whim I know is a dividing head but I didn’t see any model number also got some stock and lathe dogs expanding mandrel and reamers really trying to find some info on the dividing head


Can't help with the model information, but that link hopefully will. 

That would look good on my Cincinnati mill.  Going to have to keep my eyes open.


----------



## Winegrower

I "needed" a 1"-2" micrometer that read in tenths, and saw this one on eBay for $19, free shipping.   Seemed like it was worth a chance.   When it came promptly, there was a 1" standard included, so step 1 was measure the standard with the new mic.   Yep, read 1.0005.   Kind of worthless.   Disappointed, I measured the standard with my Mitutoyo digital...yep, it read 1.0005 also.   So the standard was off, but the mic was right on, and held up within a tenth to gage blocks.    So I could recommend this if you had a similar need.


----------



## woodchucker

Winegrower said:


> I "needed" a 1"-2" micrometer that read in tenths, and saw this one on eBay for $19, free shipping.   Seemed like it was worth a chance.   When it came promptly, there was a 1" standard included, so step 1 was measure the standard with the new mic.   Yep, read 1.0005.   Kind of worthless.   Disappointed, I measured the standard with my Mitutoyo digital...yep, it read 1.0005 also.   So the standard was off, but the mic was right on, and held up within a tenth to gage blocks.    So I could recommend this if you had a similar need.
> 
> View attachment 402751


what was the temp ?
standards are made at a certain temp, and if you are not at that temp... wellllll you get variation.


----------



## Janderso

682bear said:


> The grinder is off the trailer...
> 
> I'm not sure if this was really a good way to lift it, but it worked good...
> 
> View attachment 402615
> 
> 
> View attachment 402616
> 
> 
> View attachment 402617
> 
> 
> I managed it without any damage to the trailer, the floor, the grinder, or me... nothing ever touched the table, spindle, or handles while raising and lowering it. It was actually easier than I thought it would be... but I'm always nervous when I have a machine swinging 3 feet off the floor.
> 
> -Bear


A fellow member moved a couple years ago. We had lots of help!
Unfortunately his lathe was slung on one of the forks on the fork lift. When the FL came to the incline the lathe swung and fell off the forks.
It was a terrible thing to witness. ( I should add, many forks have a hole at the end of the forks, good to put a hitch ball on so this wouldn’t happen)
Therefore, any time you have a piece of equipment moved and nobody gets hurt and no damage occurs, it was a successful event.
Every piece I have moved has been A memorable event, and so far, all has gone well.


----------



## IamNotImportant

well sold a mower, so now i am in the market for a mill


----------



## sdavilla

Yea, was a little nervous using forks to lift my PM30-MV onto it's table. The "suggested" slinging resulted in an uncomfortable tilt. Too uncomfortable for me. Dug out the tractor drawbar, under spindle head and across the forks. Nice and level but I still strapped it down. It's generally headed towards a very bad day when heavy things start moving on their own. 




Not heavy, so to speak. 700+ lbs. Easy lift with FEL, it can do over 3000 lbs.


----------



## matthewsx

Mini mill bits $20



Came in this cool ammo can



John


----------



## DavidR8

Clearly not "empty'!


----------



## Winegrower

woodchucker said:


> what was the temp ?
> standards are made at a certain temp, and if you are not at that temp... wellllll you get variation.


This digs a rabbit hole, which for me is not productive, but anyone else is welcome to pursue.   Start with the pin and the hole…if you heat both, is it easier or harder to insert the pin?


----------



## woodchucker

Winegrower said:


> This digs a rabbit hole, which for me is not productive, but anyone else is welcome to pursue.   Start with the pin and the hole…if you heat both, is it easier or harder to insert the pin?


I'm not understanding. you realize that JoBlocks have the same issue. They require the same temp.if you are not in temp, the readings will be off.
are you thinking well, the standard and the caliper are the same temp so should be ok? if the standard expands by 2 tenths and the caliper by 2 tenths, you are off by 4 tenths... since the standard is pushing out, and the caliper is pushing toward the void so you need to open it more.


----------



## Winegrower

woodchucker said:


> since the standard is pushing out, and the caliper is pushing toward the void so you need to open it more.



Woodchucker, with all due respect, you need to think about this harder.


----------



## matthewsx

DavidR8 said:


> Clearly not "empty'!


At least "EMPTY" of ordinance....

John


----------



## woodchucker

Winegrower said:


> Woodchucker, with all due respect, you need to think about this harder.


OK... DAMN it I got nothing..

So your saying that temp has nothing to do with a standards measurement?
Why because your mit standard measured correct?


----------



## Winegrower

I think you are figuring this out, Woodchucker.   The thing is, the pin and hole expand/contract at the same rate, assuming roughly similar materials, so it’s the same fit.  The standard and the mic also expand or contract at the same rate, so the reading stays the same.   That the gage blocks/mic read correctly is a good sign that the mic is good.  
Obviously the absolute dimensions change with temperature, so if the part is red hot, and the mic is room temperature, the reading will be higher.


----------



## woodchucker

not true, the casting caliper shape C is different than the anvil's rod. different materials, different rate.. maybe close
The standard is closer to the anvil's rod..

But I'm going with what I know.. that the blocks are  calibrated at a certain temp. At a different temp they will be slightly off. Every metrology book and the certificate itself says something to that effect.


----------



## Janderso

matthewsx said:


> Mini mill bits $20
> 
> View attachment 402827
> 
> Came in this cool ammo can
> View attachment 402828
> 
> 
> John


When the ammo box is full do you need to change the stencil?


----------



## Jim F

Janderso said:


> When the ammo box is full do you need to change the stencil?


I have 2 of those 20MM cans I keep moving or tripping over..........


----------



## Jim F

I have 2 Jacobs Super chucks in the supply chain, an 11 and an 8 1/2.......
also a Phase 2,large dial 2' reading dial indicator.
Received the 3 Federal TDI's yesterday.


----------



## wachuko

Local buy… and cheap enough that I do not mind is a HF… Later on, I will be replacing the jack for the one driven by air…

20-Ton press




Picking it up in a few hours


----------



## erikmannie

Scratch and Dent Kurt 8” Vise:









						Kurt Manual VersatileLock Vise, 8" - 3800V-SD
					

Manual VersatileLock Vise, 8"




					www.kurtworkholding.com
				




This vise weighs 148 pounds & differs from the standard Kurt 8” vise in that it can either be mounted on it’s bottom or side.




This is their old (i.e. “non-DX”) style, but this model has not (yet?) been discontinued.

In other words, if Kurt ever makes a DX style of this vise, the model that I just bought will be discontinued.


----------



## woodchucker

one thing about the HF press is how small they are.  There was a USA company, and they shipped theirs by pickup truck. I was traveling across to Indiana, we started late, so we stopped for the night. Saw a bunch of trucks with presses and other equip.. was talking to the guys, got up in the truck and they were much bigger..  They were also way more expensive. I don't remember the brand.. but it was $$$... RED of course... I can't remember what the other equip was.

I think I would put a HF on wheels, and mount a piece of ply underneath to prevent a hard landing on the concrete floor. The idea of a shaft dropping out and hitting concrete... not so nice.


----------



## Jim F

woodchucker said:


> one thing about the HF press is how small they are.  There was a USA company, and they shipped theirs by pickup truck. I was traveling across to Indiana, we started late, so we stopped for the night. Saw a bunch of trucks with presses and other equip.. was talking to the guys, got up in the truck and they were much bigger..  They were also way more expensive. I don't remember the brand.. but it was $$$... RED of course... I can't remember what the other equip was.
> 
> I think I would put a HF on wheels, and mount a piece of ply underneath to prevent a hard landing on the concrete floor. *The idea of a shaft dropping out and hitting concrete... not so nice.*


If you know what you are doing, this does not happen, unless it is a 50+ ton press.....


----------



## Parlo

woodchucker said:


> what was the temp ?
> standards are made at a certain temp, and if you are not at that temp... wellllll you get variation.


I guess the standard was at the same temerature as the gage blocks.


----------



## woodchucker

Jim F said:


> If you know what you are doing, this does not happen, unless it is a 50+ ton press.....


I have had shafts release suddenly from my little home made bentchop unit... so I can't imagine that a 20 ton won't... especially one so short where you have to bend over to grab the bar..


----------



## woodchucker

Good video... so that you can buy...




I did buy , then cancelled, then bought a different one, now thinking I made the correct decision the first time...


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> one thing about the HF press is how small they are.  There was a USA company, and they shipped theirs by pickup truck. I was traveling across to Indiana, we started late, so we stopped for the night. Saw a bunch of trucks with presses and other equip.. was talking to the guys, got up in the truck and they were much bigger..  They were also way more expensive. I don't remember the brand.. but it was $$$... RED of course... I can't remember what the other equip was.
> 
> I think I would put a HF on wheels, and mount a piece of ply underneath to prevent a hard landing on the concrete floor. The idea of a shaft dropping out and hitting concrete... not so nice.


Well… I was the first to reply… told the seller that I would pick up at 3… he was not back until 12 anyway and said it was fine to pick up at 3.  Guess what!? Messaged seller before 3 to let him know that I was on my way to pick up and he replied that he had sold it….

Oh well, guess he was in a hurry….

I can keep looking


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> Well… I was the first to reply… told the seller that I would pick up at 3… he was not back until 12 anyway and said it was fine to pick up at 3.  Guess what!? Messaged seller before 3 to let him know that I was on my way to pick up and he replied that he had sold it….
> 
> Oh well, guess he was in a hurry….
> 
> I can keep looking


you snooze, you lose.. 
damn.


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> you snooze, you lose..
> damn.


No, that is actually a bad faith seller.  The seller accepted the offer, arranged a time, and re-negged on the deal.  No fault of @wachuko.  Good thing wachuko called first.


----------



## Janderso

wachuko said:


> Local buy… and cheap enough that I do not mind is a HF… Later on, I will be replacing the jack for the one driven by air…
> 
> 20-Ton press
> 
> View attachment 402886
> 
> 
> Picking it up in a few hours


Those are very handy. Be careful, 20 tons sneaks up on you then blamo, something gives


----------



## Gnpenning

wachuko said:


> Well… I was the first to reply… told the seller that I would pick up at 3… he was not back until 12 anyway and said it was fine to pick up at 3.  Guess what!? Messaged seller before 3 to let him know that I was on my way to pick up and he replied that he had sold it….
> 
> Oh well, guess he was in a hurry….
> 
> I can keep looking


Had this happen this past week to me.  Told him I would be there within the hour.  Ends up telling me after I left work it was gone....


----------



## finsruskw

WobblyHand said:


> No, that is actually a bad faith seller.  The seller accepted the offer, arranged a time, and re-negged on the deal.  No fault of @wachuko.  Good thing wachuko called first.


Sure leaves a bad taste in your mouth, huh??
And kinda shakes your faith in fellow mankind don't it

Been there, had that happen with a garden tractor GRRRR!!!~
Cost me a whole dam day plus fuel for a 400 mile round trip after "sealing" the deal via phone conversation the night before.

And this was after I got there to pick it up, he was not even there, his daughter showed up after I had waited about 45 minutes for the guy and she informed me he was at a ballgame and had sole the Cub the night before, obviously after I had talked to him on the phone.


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> Well… I was the first to reply… told the seller that I would pick up at 3… he was not back until 12 anyway and said it was fine to pick up at 3.  Guess what!? Messaged seller before 3 to let him know that I was on my way to pick up and he replied that he had sold it….
> 
> Oh well, guess he was in a hurry….
> 
> I can keep looking


----------



## Aarongerike

Major score today! Now I have to ad on to my shop!


----------



## woodchucker

Aarongerike said:


> Major score today! Now I have to ad on to my shop!
> View attachment 402939


holy crap, all those machines????  are you kidding me????


----------



## finsruskw

_WOAH!!!
That puppy looks a bit on the HEAVY METAL side!!
Great score!!_


----------



## WobblyHand

I know what I didn't buy today.  A lot of 100 slitting saws.  Price was sitting at $36.  I was set to bid a few dollars and change over that as the clock ran out.  Apparently someone bid $104 at 2 seconds to go.  Startled me.  Not enough time to react.  Oh well.  Had been watching that auction for a week.  In retrospect, they obviously were worth $1.04 each.  However, wasn't expecting a $68 jump at the last second.  At 3 seconds, the price was $36.  I was going to bid at 2 seconds.  It was not to be...


----------



## Aarongerike

woodchucker said:


> holy crap, all those machines????  are you kidding me????


Yes. They were giving them away for scrap iron. Had an ad on Facebook market place. I happened to see it 3 minutes after they posted it and I have heavy equipment to safely move them


----------



## matthewsx

WobblyHand said:


> No, that is actually a bad faith seller.  The seller accepted the offer, arranged a time, and re-negged on the deal.  No fault of @wachuko.  Good thing wachuko called first.


I had a similar thing yesterday on a Rockwell sander, seller set a time and place then called me to say he changed his mind and was going to keep it. Sorry, I won't do business with someone like that even if he called back and said I could have it at half price.

People who won't stand by their words I don't have much use for.

John


----------



## wachuko

matthewsx said:


> I had a similar thing yesterday on a Rockwell sander, seller set a time and place then called me to say he changed his mind and was going to keep it. Sorry, I won't do business with someone like that even if he called back and said I could have it at half price.
> 
> People who won't stand by their words I don't have much use for.
> 
> John





WobblyHand said:


> No, that is actually a bad faith seller.  The seller accepted the offer, arranged a time, and re-negged on the deal.  No fault of @wachuko.  Good thing wachuko called first.





Gnpenning said:


> Had this happen this past week to me.  Told him I would be there within the hour.  Ends up telling me after I left work it was gone....





finsruskw said:


> Sure leaves a bad taste in your mouth, huh??
> And kinda shakes your faith in fellow mankind don't it
> 
> Been there, had that happen with a garden tractor GRRRR!!!~
> Cost me a whole dam day plus fuel for a 400 mile round trip after "sealing" the deal via phone conversation the night before.





matthewsx said:


> I had a similar thing yesterday on a Rockwell sander, seller set a time and place then called me to say he changed his mind and was going to keep it. Sorry, I won't do business with someone like that even if he called back and said I could have it at half price.
> 
> People who won't stand by their words I don't have much use for.
> 
> John



Yes, bad seller.  Glad it was not far away and I was in downtown Ocala having a date with my wife.  So, all in all, it was fine and I was not going to let that ruin a great Sunday.

I had given my phone number to the seller and everything... there was really no excuse.  My guess, someone offered him more for it.  Just bad taste in my mouth... he could have, at least, send me a text message to let me know it was gone.



woodchucker said:


> one thing about the HF press is how small they are.  There was a USA company, and they shipped theirs by pickup truck. I was traveling across to Indiana, we started late, so we stopped for the night. Saw a bunch of trucks with presses and other equip.. was talking to the guys, got up in the truck and they were much bigger..  They were also way more expensive. I don't remember the brand.. but it was $$$... RED of course... I can't remember what the other equip was.
> 
> I think I would put a HF on wheels, and mount a piece of ply underneath to prevent a hard landing on the concrete floor. The idea of a shaft dropping out and hitting concrete... not so nice.



What do you mean?  It is 61" tall.  That is short?

I am currently using this... borrowed from a friend with no return date as he is not that mechanically inclined.  He got it to use once and told me to take it.    It is not sturdy enough, just not pleasant to use.  I need to give it back and get myself a decent shop press.




Anyway, this gives me the chance to keep looking for a decent one.  I am in no rush for this one...


----------



## 682bear

A few more ebay buys...

A copy of the manual for my shaper...




A VPGR332 lathe tool...




...with a very broken insert...

And a Rohm MT3 long nose live center...




The center is well used, but seems to be in excellent mechanical condition.

-Bear


----------



## mmcmdl

WobblyHand said:


> I know what I didn't buy today. A lot of 100 slitting saws. Price was sitting at $36. I was set to bid a few dollars and change over that as the clock ran out. Apparently someone bid $104 at 2 seconds to go. Startled me. Not enough time to react. Oh well. Had been watching that auction for a week. In retrospect, they obviously were worth $1.04 each. However, wasn't expecting a $68 jump at the last second. At 3 seconds, the price was $36. I was going to bid at 2 seconds. It was not to be...


Auto bids . People put their top price in and the item jumps in the last minute . Impossible to follow .


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> Yes, bad seller.  Glad it was not far away and I was in downtown Ocala having a date with my wife.  So, all in all, it was fine and I was not going to let that ruin a great Sunday.
> 
> I had given my phone number to the seller and everything... there was really no excuse.  My guess, someone offered him more for it.  Just bad taste in my mouth... he could have, at least, send me a text message to let me know it was gone.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean?  It is 61" tall.  That is short?
> 
> I am currently using this... borrowed from a friend with no return date as he is not that mechanically inclined.  He got it to use once and told me to take it.    It is not sturdy enough, just not pleasant to use.  I need to give it back and get myself a decent shop press.
> 
> View attachment 402993
> 
> 
> Anyway, this gives me the chance to keep looking for a decent one.  I am in no rush for this one...


looks like the older ones may be bigger than the new.
The new 12ton is listed as 53 inches.   I was in store looking recently as I had nothing to do , I was trying to buy nitrile gloves 7mil on sale, but they had nothing in stock.. and was walking around. They were short. Even 60 is short IMHO.


----------



## Winegrower

wachuko said:


> Well… I was the first to reply… told the seller that I would pick up at 3… he was not back until 12 anyway and said it was fine to pick up at 3. Guess what!? Messaged seller before 3 to let him know that I was on my way to pick up and he replied that he had sold it….


I have started offering a PayPal payment, or at least a deposit, just to make sure everybody knows it's sold.   I think this has made several good deals come to completion.


----------



## Winegrower

Janderso said:


> Those are very handy. Be careful, 20 tons sneaks up on you then blamo, something gives


I did that with my HF press, using the HF air jack.   It's OK, helps for large movements but uses a LOT of air, it's noisier than I expected, and you will want to use the manual handle as you get close to the part in any event...there is not terrific control with the air, and air pressure alone won't get the maximum out of the press.


----------



## mmcmdl

If I had someone tell me he's interested in something and will be traveling to see/get it , I wait for him . Period . I myself would be quite erked if I drove 200 miles for a tractor only to find it was sold to someone who showed up after an agreement was made . That's just darn right ignorant if you ask me .


----------



## finsruskw

16 pcs of lathe tooling for $30 + S&H snagged off C/L 
3 on the left are NOS Haynes Stellite 98-M2
the next 4 are DoAll and look to be freshly sharpened from the wax coating.
the rest are a deluxe mixture of Rex aaa, Latrobe, & Vanite.
3+ pounds in all
Plus these Starrette measuring rods, 1, 2, & 3 with this spanner.
Have no clue what they are or how they are used.
Also picked up a 20' length of 1018 1" CRS for $82.47 after discount.


----------



## mmcmdl

Had to visit the local Horrible Freight store for a small trailer jack . $24.95 for a bolt on swing up jack .   At $30.00 an hour , I figure I saved $2700 in time alone just for me to look for material in the garage to make one .


----------



## Papa Charlie

Been looking for tool boxes and cabinets. It is ridiculous what they are asking for new and old. Saw a Craftsmen top box on Craigslist, called on it last night and made arrangements to see it today. Thankfully, this was a straight up seller. So got it for what I think is a pretty good price at only $150. Still need a lower (Cabinet) but will keep my eyes out. Will be putting in some drawer liners, picked up a roll at HF but couldn't find my scissors in storage where most of my tools are. Hence an example of why I need some more tool storage.

Here is the new addition. I even like the Snap-on sticker "Please don't ask to borrow"


----------



## mmcmdl

Papa Charlie said:


> Been looking for tool boxes and cabinets. It is ridiculous what they are asking for new and old.


Just left HF . The 42" rollers are now $599 .   Everything is getting expensive these days .


----------



## mickri

It was my birthday in March and I always try to buy something that I don't really have a need for but would like to have.  This year it was a depth micrometer.  Looked at the usual sources for chinesium and then took a look over on the bay for older American.  Saw some Central Tool depth mics at reasonable prices.  Did a little research.  Found a thread on PM about them where everybody seemed happy with years of service.  No negatives.  Made a $40 offer on one on the bay and the seller accepted my offer.  That was Friday evening.  The postman delivered it today.

Came in its original case.  No rust or marks anywhere.  So now I have a 0-3" depth mic.


----------



## IamNotImportant

mickri said:


> It was my birthday in March and I always try to buy something that I don't really have a need for but would like to have.  This year it was a depth micrometer.  Looked at the usual sources for chinesium and then took a look over on the bay for older American.  Saw some Central Tool depth mics at reasonable prices.  Did a little research.  Found a thread on PM about them where everybody seemed happy with years of service.  No negatives.  Made a $40 offer on one on the bay and the seller accepted my offer.  That was Friday evening.  The postman delivered it today.
> 
> Came in its original case.  No rust or marks anywhere.  So now I have a 0-3" depth mic.
> 
> View attachment 403066


----------



## woodchucker

My son asked for a floor jack for his bday. I said can't you wait until I die?  He said no..  Was that he can't wait for the jack, or he can't wait for me to die???   I dunno...  

So I bought him this. I have the Daytona yellow the high end one .. But this was a  lot less and figured good enough. And I bought the warranty, which I normally don't do, but 90 days is short for a HF jack.



also bought this for another job I have to do..








						0- 1" Screw Thread Micrometer .0001" Graduation Anvil NEW ^}  | eBay
					

Pitch Anvil Pair #1 Anvil Pair #2. Anvil Pair #4 Anvil Pair #5. Anvil Pair #3. 5 pairs of anvil # 1-5. 2.0 - 3.0mm 3.50 - 5.0mm. Pitch: 64 - 5 TPI / 0.4 - 5.0mm. Accuracy.00016"/0.004mm. accuracy of <0.3µm +(L(mm)/1200) µm.



					www.ebay.com


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> My son asked for a floor jack for his bday. I said can't you wait until I die?  He said no..  Was that he can't wait for the jack, or he can't wait for me to die???   I dunno...
> 
> So I bought him this. I have the Dayton yellow the high end one .. But this was a  lot less and figured good enough. And I bought the warranty, which I normally don't do, but 90 days is short for a HF jack.
> View attachment 403077
> 
> 
> also bought this for another job I have to do..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 0- 1" Screw Thread Micrometer .0001" Graduation Anvil NEW ^}  | eBay
> 
> 
> Pitch Anvil Pair #1 Anvil Pair #2. Anvil Pair #4 Anvil Pair #5. Anvil Pair #3. 5 pairs of anvil # 1-5. 2.0 - 3.0mm 3.50 - 5.0mm. Pitch: 64 - 5 TPI / 0.4 - 5.0mm. Accuracy.00016"/0.004mm. accuracy of <0.3µm +(L(mm)/1200) µm.
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com


i have had my HF jack now going on 5 years..


----------



## woodchucker

yea my  Daytona is 3years now probably.  but you never know.


----------



## matthewsx

woodchucker said:


> My son asked for a floor jack for his bday. I said can't you wait until I die?  He said no..  Was that he can't wait for the jack, or he can't wait for me to die???   I dunno...
> 
> So I bought him this. I have the Dayton yellow the high end one .. But this was a  lot less and figured good enough. And I bought the warranty, which I normally don't do, but 90 days is short for a HF jack.
> View attachment 403077
> 
> 
> also bought this for another job I have to do..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 0- 1" Screw Thread Micrometer .0001" Graduation Anvil NEW ^}  | eBay
> 
> 
> Pitch Anvil Pair #1 Anvil Pair #2. Anvil Pair #4 Anvil Pair #5. Anvil Pair #3. 5 pairs of anvil # 1-5. 2.0 - 3.0mm 3.50 - 5.0mm. Pitch: 64 - 5 TPI / 0.4 - 5.0mm. Accuracy.00016"/0.004mm. accuracy of <0.3µm +(L(mm)/1200) µm.
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com


I bought one of those to get underneath my Cadi, works great.


----------



## DavidR8

Picked up a used 24” pan and box break for $100. Cost me another $150 to get it shipped to me. But given that buying one locally is a $500+tax touch I figure I’m money ahead. 
Pictures when I get it out of the crate!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## woodchucker

IamNotImportant said:


> i have had my HF jack now going on 5 years..


I should add I had the 1.5 ton jack Aluminum for many years. Loaned it to my boss, and he did not listen to me. It looks like he didn't chock the wheels, did it in his driveway on a hill and bent the jack like a pretzel. Of course he gave it back like nothing happened...  What do you do when it's your boss....


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> I should add I had the 1.5 ton jack Aluminum for many years. Loaned it to my boss, and he did not listen to me. It looks like he didn't chock the wheels, did it in his driveway on a hill and bent the jack like a pretzel. Of course he gave it back like nothing happened...  What do you do when it's your boss....


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> I should add I had the 1.5 ton jack Aluminum for many years. Loaned it to my boss, and he did not listen to me. It looks like he didn't chock the wheels, did it in his driveway on a hill and bent the jack like a pretzel. Of course he gave it back like nothing happened...  What do you do when it's your boss....


I would have told him he owed me a new jack.  That's a pretty abusive relationship, if you ask me.  If he did nothing after you asking, I would report him to HR if you had one in your organization.  Breaking your stuff that you loaned him to help and pretending that nothing happened, that's pretty low.  Like 4 flat tire low...  You know, a pebble in every tire valve, with a screwed down valve cap makes a slow leak, just saying...


----------



## DavidR8

The $100 pan and box brake. 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

The $100 pan and box brake. 






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidR8

Sorry for the duplicate post!


----------



## Larry$

BROCKWOOD said:


> marked A36 & is 1-1/2 x 12"


That's a lot of good material, great find (& price.)


----------



## matthewsx

mickri said:


> It was my birthday in March and I always try to buy something that I don't really have a need for but would like to have.  This year it was a depth micrometer.  Looked at the usual sources for chinesium and then took a look over on the bay for older American.  Saw some Central Tool depth mics at reasonable prices.  Did a little research.  Found a thread on PM about them where everybody seemed happy with years of service.  No negatives.  Made a $40 offer on one on the bay and the seller accepted my offer.  That was Friday evening.  The postman delivered it today.
> 
> Came in its original case.  No rust or marks anywhere.  So now I have a 0-3" depth mic.
> 
> View attachment 403066


Depth mic was one of my most used tools when I was an engine builder....


----------



## Papa Charlie

The $100 pan and box brake.


DavidR8 said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nice David, I have been looking for one like that for some time. Have to laugh at some of the prices. Cheaper to buy new sometimes. 

Congrats.


----------



## DavidR8

Papa Charlie said:


> The $100 pan and box brake.
> 
> Nice David, I have been looking for one like that for some time. Have to laugh at some of the prices. Cheaper to buy new sometimes.
> 
> Congrats.


Thanks! 
It cost me $150 to have it shipped to me but they are $500 +$65 in tax new so...I feel pretty good about it. Needs some spit and polish but I'm good with that.


----------



## matthewsx

woodchucker said:


> I should add I had the 1.5 ton jack Aluminum for many years. Loaned it to my boss, and he did not listen to me. It looks like he didn't chock the wheels, did it in his driveway on a hill and bent the jack like a pretzel. Of course he gave it back like nothing happened...  What do you do when it's your boss....


When's your next review?


----------



## woodchucker

matthewsx said:


> When's your next review?


I was let go July 2020...
by that time I had my 3rd boss. I started writing about it, but gave up. It was not a good place to work in general.


----------



## matthewsx

Then you did the right thing....

Sometimes it's best to let things go, a new jack is cheap compared to the heartache of working for a bad boss. So many companies don't bother to train their people (especially managers). Managing people is a learned skill, and one that comes with a lot of challenges, just because you know how to do something doesn't mean you can supervise others to do the same thing. Amazing how many executives never figured this out.

JOhn


----------



## woodchucker

Bought these a few days ago, they arrived today.
The cable set seems nice.. haven't done anything with it.
The brake kit, well, if I were using it for a bike, I probably would buy up.. they don't pack it well, so it's all beat up, and the laser cutting sucks. many of the round holes are not round, and have pieces of SS left in areas where they should not be. Many areas are cut into with the laser.
But for a lathe brake I think it will work.


----------



## Doug Gray

Purchased this 4" MT3 bull nose centre on March 10th. It just showed up today ..long after the job is complete.  Oh well it's in the arsenal now.


----------



## DavidR8

woodchucker said:


> Bought these a few days ago, they arrived today.
> The cable set seems nice.. haven't done anything with it.
> The brake kit, well, if I were using it for a bike, I probably would buy up.. they don't pack it well, so it's all beat up, and the laser cutting sucks. many of the round holes are not round, and have pieces of SS left in areas where they should not be. Many areas are cut into with the laser.
> But for a lathe brake I think it will work.
> View attachment 403133
> View attachment 403134
> View attachment 403136


Is that for a lathe brake install?
Edit...yes it is. Had read a slower I would have seen the last line...


----------



## Janderso

woodchucker said:


> I should add I had the 1.5 ton jack Aluminum for many years. Loaned it to my boss, and he did not listen to me. It looks like he didn't chock the wheels, did it in his driveway on a hill and bent the jack like a pretzel. Of course he gave it back like nothing happened...  What do you do when it's your boss....


Reminds me of a coworker who borrowed another coworkers chainsaw. The owner said, take my mixed gas so there are no problems.
He says, I have gas, no thanks. Yep, 
He brought it back, said thanks. Not a word spoken.
The next time it was used it was seized.


----------



## mmcmdl

Lending chainsaws ? Uh , no friggin way . The last Husky was over $1500 , lend him a hack saw blade .


----------



## IamNotImportant

Janderso said:


> Reminds me of a coworker who borrowed another coworkers chainsaw. The owner said, take my mixed gas so there are no problems.
> He says, I have gas, no thanks. Yep,
> He brought it back, said thanks. Not a word spoken.
> The next time it was used it was seized.


----------



## mmcmdl

Not to get off topic here , but I mentioned chainsaw blades awhile back . While pulling the lathe out last week , I found a few , and they are worthy of a pic . ( when I get out there )  I have some work to do .


----------



## wachuko

Bought the Acute Tool Sharpening System - Full Parts Kit and I needed a some metric tooling to get ready for when it arrives... so bought some inexpensive ones:

Set of metric drill bits... then added a few specific ones that were not included in the kit - 2.8mm, 3.3mm, 5.8mm, 5.9mm
Got a set of metric reamers
Got a set of 2-12mm milling cutters
Got a slot drill end mill in 10mm
Got a set of ER20 metric collects

Also got a set of 1/4"thick x 6" long parallels   - I do not want to be moving tooling from one house to the other and back... but I also do not want to buy two of everything... so got this set.  It is thicker to the one I  have been using for the G0704 milling machine... So at least is a different set of parallels...


----------



## IamNotImportant

If only i had the dough! For sale 15K




And this one for 17K


----------



## devils4ever

I bought this USA-made Metal Stamp Set from McMaster-Carr to put some letters and numbers on some past projects. It looks like very high quality. Unfortunately, I'm having trouble aligning the stamps properly and getting good spacing.

Maybe, I'll have to make a jig in the future? Does anyone have plans?


----------



## wachuko

devils4ever said:


> I bought this USA-made Metal Stamp Set from McMaster-Carr to put some letters and numbers on some past projects. It looks like very high quality. Unfortunately, I'm having trouble aligning the stamps properly and getting good spacing.
> 
> Maybe, I'll have to make a jig in the future? Does anyone have plans?
> 
> View attachment 403354
> 
> 
> View attachment 403355


Like this one?


----------



## devils4ever

wachuko said:


> Like this one?


Exactly!


----------



## rwm

Wow. 15k for the Deckel. I didn't know those were worth that much? What is the spindle on those?

Edit: NMT40 taper.


----------



## wachuko

devils4ever said:


> Exactly!


Good.  I have that on my list as well... I had a punch made with my nickname, but it did not worked that great... so looks like I will need to go back to those punches and making a guide like that one...


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> Good.  I have that on my list as well... I had a punch made with my nickname, but it did not worked that great... so looks like I will need to go back to those punches and making a guide like that one...
> 
> View attachment 403363


are you using a hyrdraulic press or an arbor press? I get better results on number and letter punches.


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> are you using a hyrdraulic press or an arbor press? I get better results on number and letter punches.


hummm.... I keep kicking myself...   I was using a hammer!   And I recently got an used arbor press... you would think I would try that... right?!    but nooooo....

Will be right back...


----------



## wachuko

Well.... I feel stupid.... again...   Look at that!


----------



## Eyerelief

See!  You are much cooler than you thought.  That is a lot of surface area to try and hold perpendicular and smack with a hammer.


----------



## mmcmdl

wachuko said:


> Well.... I feel stupid.... again... Look at that!


LOL , I was selling a hydro rear end off a Deere tractor and stamped my mark on the casing . I do this because I can identify it if ever any issues about getting it back . I cracked the casing keeping the story short . Easier and safer to engrave a mark or name than stamping .


----------



## finsruskw

mmcmdl said:


> LOL , I was selling a hydro rear end off a Deere tractor and stamped my mark on the casing . I do this because I can identify it if ever any issues about getting it back . I cracked the casing keeping the story short . Easier and safer to engrave a mark or name than stamping .


Not your fault.....
Cheap Deere casting mat's anyway!! GASP!!!!


----------



## mmcmdl

finsruskw said:


> Not your fault.....
> Cheap Deere casting mat's anyway!! GASP!!!!


You know I'm with you 100 % on this one !


----------



## finsruskw

mmcmdl said:


> You know I'm with you 100 % on this one !


Probably sourced from you know where to boot,


----------



## Badabinski

Got a couple of things in today! First off is a Starrett 220 interchangeable anvil mic:


I've wanted one of these ever since I saw This Old Tony showing his off. The face isn't carbide, there isn't a vernier scale for tenths and there's no friction/ratcheting thimble, but it seems to be in pretty good repair. It also came with a whole bunch of fixings (Starrett 1" standard that I probably won't trust, various pins, and an extra anvil):



I also got some really nice abrasive files. The eBay listing called them "moldmaker stones," but I'll confess that I don't really understand the distinction. They're fairly coarse, but they're finer than the rough India stone abrasive files I have. They're also super thin which should let me reach hard-to-deburr spots.




EDIT: After 30 seconds of Googling, I've learned that moldmaker stones are just abrasive files that are made from black silicon carbide. Works for me.


----------



## Jim F

Badabinski said:


> Got a couple of things in today! First off is a Starrett 220 interchangeable anvil mic:
> View attachment 403407
> 
> I've wanted one of these ever since I saw This Old Tony showing his off. The face isn't carbide, there isn't a vernier scale for tenths and there's no friction/ratcheting thimble, but it seems to be in pretty good repair. It also came with a whole bunch of fixings (Starrett 1" standard that I probably won't trust, various pins, and an extra anvil):
> View attachment 403408
> 
> 
> I also got some really nice abrasive files. The eBay listing called them "moldmaker stones," but I'll confess that I don't really understand the distinction. They're fairly coarse, but they're finer than the rough India stone abrasive files I have. They're also super thin which should let me reach hard-to-deburr spots.
> View attachment 403409
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: After 30 seconds of Googling, I've learned that moldmaker stones are just abrasive files that are made from black silicon carbide. Works for me.


You can trust a Starrett standard.
Starrett recommends NOT having a .0001 vernier on an anvil mic, due to possible deflection.....


----------



## devils4ever

Jim F said:


> You can trust a Starrett standard.
> Starrett recommends NOT having a .0001 vernier on an anvil mic, due to possible deflection.....



Interesting. My Mitutoyo has a tenths scale.


----------



## devils4ever

wachuko said:


> Like this one?



I found this on YT where the spacing between characters is variable. I really like this idea. I might have to make one based on this design.


----------



## frugalguido

IamNotImportant said:


> If only i had the dough! For sale 15K
> 
> View attachment 403352
> 
> 
> And this one for 17K
> 
> View attachment 403353





rwm said:


> Wow. 15k for the Deckel. I didn't know those were worth that much? What is the spindle on those?
> 
> Edit: NMT40 taper.


Those are very late models of the FP-1, bottom one has the tilt table. Both have the overarm for the horizontal mode. It's the perfect match to that new Super 11


----------



## 682bear

682bear said:


> My old Taft-Peirce surface grinder is on it's last legs, so I've been looking around just to see what is available. I didn't think I would find anything local, at least without waiting and watching for a while...
> 
> But I was wrong... I went and picked this up this morning...
> 
> View attachment 402334
> 
> 
> View attachment 402335
> 
> 
> It was a little more than I wanted to spend, but a Micromaster was on my short list of grinders to watch for, it was local, (@35 miles), and it's an 818 instead of a 618... who doesn't need an extra 2 inches every now and then?
> 
> Now I have to figure out how to get it off the trailer...
> 
> -Bear





682bear said:


> The grinder is off the trailer...
> 
> I'm not sure if this was really a good way to lift it, but it worked good...
> 
> View attachment 402615
> 
> 
> View attachment 402616
> 
> 
> View attachment 402617
> 
> 
> I managed it without any damage to the trailer, the floor, the grinder, or me... nothing ever touched the table, spindle, or handles while raising and lowering it. It was actually easier than I thought it would be... but I'm always nervous when I have a machine swinging 3 feet off the floor.
> 
> -Bear



The last few days, I've been working on getting the grinder set up. I've moved it into it's 'permanent' home, leveled it as close as I could get it, and ran power to it.

My chinesium precision level worked pretty well to level it... this level is sensitive!




After getting it wired and running, I put an indicator on the wheel cover and checked the flatness of the chuck... it was not perfectly flat, so I decided to grind the chuck. There were two low areas in the chuck...




I ground about .003" off to clean up, then set up a mist system for the final grind.

I've had this old Wesco Tool Mist system for a couple of years, but have never used it... it is a twin nozzle system with seperate controls for each nozzle...







It's not in great condition, but works good.

Using the mist with Kool-Mist coolant, I finished grinding the chuck...




There are a few 'woops' marks on the chuck, but that won't hurt anything... 

-Bear


----------



## IamNotImportant

frugalguido said:


> Those are very late models of the FP-1, bottom one has the tilt table. Both have the overarm for the horizontal mode. It's the perfect match to that new Super 11


some of things i am going to make will require a long table.. so i am looking at bridgeport style mills that i can fit in the garage.. 42 or 48 table


----------



## mmcmdl

IamNotImportant said:


> some of things i am going to make will require a long table.. so i am looking at bridgeport style mills that i can fit in the garage.. 42 or 48 table


I may have one going out soon .


----------



## IamNotImportant

mmcmdl said:


> I may have one going out soon .


i hear that.. 



emoji cowboy


----------



## Jim F

devils4ever said:


> Interesting. My Mitutoyo has a tenths scale.
> 
> View attachment 403474
> 
> 
> View attachment 403475


My Starrett 1"-2" is a .001 res., my Mitutoyo 0-1" is a .0001.


----------



## Janderso

woodchucker said:


> are you using a hyrdraulic press or an arbor press? I get better results on number and letter punches.


Never thought of using an arbor press for letter stamps?
Maybe i need to try it.


----------



## Christianstark

Got one of these today. Going to re-do my quill depth stop, and make room for a Quill DRO.


----------



## erikmannie

I paid off 25% of our consumer debt (consumer debt defined as “all of our debt, not counting the mortgage”) in one shot, by way of cashing out a whopping 5 weeks of vacation. The withholding is nasty on vacation cashout; I only received 60% of the gross.

This leaves me with 1 week off, and, instead of having 5 weeks of glorious shop time, I will labor for 330 hours.

The good news is that this personal loan was for *lathe tooling*, & it had the highest interest rate of all our debt at 10.1%. I still have & enjoy using all of this equipment!


----------



## extropic

erikmannie said:


> I paid off 25% of our consumer debt (consumer debt defined as “all of our debt, not counting the mortgage”) in one shot, by way of cashing out a whopping 5 weeks of vacation. The withholding is nasty on vacation cashout; I only received 60% of the gross.
> 
> This leaves me with 1 week off, and, *instead of having 5 weeks of glorious shop time, I will labor for 330 hours.*
> 
> The good news is that this personal loan was for *lathe tooling*, & it had the highest interest rate of all our debt at 10.1%. I still have & enjoy using all of this equipment!


 
330/5 = 66

You're working 66 hours per week on a regular basis? Or, did I misunderstand what you wrote?


----------



## erikmannie

extropic said:


> 330/5 = 66
> 
> You're working 66 hours per week on a regular basis? Or, did I misunderstand what you wrote?


Yes. I work five 12-hour days M-F, and a 6-hour day on Sat.: 26 hours of OT every week.

If I wanted to, I could work up to 35 hours per week OT (which I just did for 9 months), or reduce my OT down to 15 hours per week.

I will minimize the OT when I have zero consumer debt. For me, it is all about shop time; I am buying the tools, & then I will use them for thousands of hours.

I only get to work in the shop on Saturday mornings, all day Sundays, holidays, vacation and sick days, to the extent that I am not interrupted.

I retire in 9 years, 2 months.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

There was a time I worked several 84 hour weeks, seven 12s and no off days. After three or four weeks my mind was so befuddled, I went to the local laundromat and on leaving made a left turn instead of right. On a motorcycle in Birmingham and didn't realize my mistake until the road ended in Panama City, Fla at the Gulf of Mexico. Those 84 hour weeks were hard and I just didn't realize my mistake. Ride to live, live to ride. . . I quit that job a short time later, didn't get fired.

That was a long time ago but I remember it well. Just bought a new toy, a gear puller. I have seen several designs for years but they didn't have the form I wanted or needed. The motor is a little over an inch long, the gear is a quarter inch diameter. Small tools for small minds, I suppose. 


	

		
			
		

		
	
The puller:
The screw portion is 10mm by 1.25, call it 3/8-24. I haven't measured the thread, don't really care, it works. The middle punch is what I needed, 1.9mm shaft size, 2mm less 0.1 for clearance. I'll put a dimple in the end of the punch and use it as a wheel puller as well. Very well made, steel not ZAMAK. I am quite pleased. . . 

.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought items for my welding fixture stand project:




I did not show a picture of the gallon of Evapo-Rust.

Today I will get all the parts for an old chuck into the Evapo-Rust for an overnight soaking.

The flap disk & wire wheel is for finishing the last arm on the fixture stand.

The hitch pins are for connecting the items on this arm.

EDIT: I should have bought 2 gallons of Evapo-Rust! I am making this harder than it needs to be.


----------



## extropic

@Bi11Hudson 

Can you share where one might buy such a small puller?


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Gear Puller
					

Hobbylinc carries 3 gear puller at discounts up to 23%. The most popular gear puller brands include Mascot Precision Tools, and E-Flite.



					www.hobbylinc.com
				




.


----------



## NCjeeper

Thursday I bought a new left shoulder ( depending on what my deductible ends up being). Chromed cobalt ball and some sort of plastic socket.


----------



## woodchucker

NCjeeper said:


> Thursday I bought a new left shoulder ( depending on what my deductible ends up being). Chromed cobalt ball and some sort of plastic socket.


I've had both shoulders rebuilt, but not replaced. Hope you end up a little better than me. One back in 1990 I think, the other in 94 maybe.


----------



## NCjeeper

Planning on doing the other shoulder in the fall. 38 years of heavy weightlifting wore them out.


----------



## Jim F

This arrived today.
The ENCO Mag base is NOS. still in plastic.









						lot of machinist tools Starrett 436 , no. 124 , 284 , Enco indicator stand MORE!  | eBay
					

<p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">lot of machinist tools Starrett 436XP-3 , no. 124 ,no.  284 , Enco indicator stand , and more. All in working order and fair condition see pics for items , brands and visual. </p>



					www.ebay.com


----------



## Gaffer

I’m posting here so maybe @rgetso ‘gets-o’ little more exposure. My three speed handles are beautifully machined and fit my vises perfectly. I was amazed at how quickly he got them to me. I believe he had the two hex ones in stock as they are common sizes for the GMT and Kurt, but he had to program the one for my unknown made 6” with a square nut. I couldn’t be more pleased! Thanks again Richard and keep up the great work!

Edit: adding Richard's eBay link. You may have to scroll down a bit to see is store.


----------



## erikmannie

I just spent $375 at the steelyard.

*Each* of these 3/8” plates was $101, eleven holes made in the plate on their Piranha ironworker was $55 dollars, four 28” lengths of 2” X 2”, 1/4” wall angle iron was $91, & the Grade 8 hardware was $17.

This is for a fixture stand (and bench vise!) base which is bolted to the concrete. The base needs to be very strong.


----------



## woodchucker

erikmannie said:


> I just spent $375 at the steelyard.
> 
> *Each* of these 3/8” plates was $101, eleven holes made in the plate on their Piranha ironworker was $55 dollars, four 28” lengths of 2” X 2”, 1/4” wall angle iron was $91, & the Grade 8 hardware was $17.
> 
> This is for a fixture stand (and bench vise!) base which is bolted to the concrete. The base needs to be very strong.
> 
> View attachment 404055
> 
> View attachment 404054


I would have saved the drilling costs. That $55 could go to a lot more things...  I can't imagine you couldn't do that. How much time do you think it save you?


----------



## erikmannie

woodchucker said:


> I would have saved the drilling costs. That $55 could go to a lot more things...  I can't imagine you couldn't do that. How much time do you think it save you?


My Dad just gave me a huge drill (see photo). I used this drill to slightly expand 3 holes in 1/4” plate the other day, and this was a very grueling 15 minutes to expand all 3 holes.

I do okay when I can get the material to be drilled in the mill. I do not have a drill press. Using a handheld drill, even a large one, is tough because the bit gets stuck & twists & hurts me. If I sprain or fracture my wrist, I would suffer up to $20,000 in lost income.


----------



## matthewsx

Do you have space for a DP?


----------



## woodchucker

gottcha...

BTW, if you run into that situation again, consider a step drill for expanding holes. Lots of oil. I find that they don't bite in the way a twist drill does.

I use them for plastic to prevent it from digging in, I have another set for metal. I only use a step drill for sheet metal.. And I agree your situation requires you to think about your wrists first.  You can use you mill as a drill press, you don't need to mount it in the vise.  Put a stud in your table to prevent the plate from spinning... open the jaws and drill over the open jaws...


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> gottcha...
> 
> BTW, if you run into that situation again, consider a step drill for expanding holes. Lots of oil. I find that they don't bite in the way a twist drill does.
> 
> I use them for plastic to prevent it from digging in, I have another set for metal. I only use a step drill for sheet metal.. And I agree your situation requires you to think about your wrists first.  You can use you mill as a drill press, you don't need to mount it in the vise.  Put a stud in your table to prevent the plate from spinning... open the jaws and drill over the open jaws...


With something that big, I'd clamp it to the mill table with some spacers, like wood or plywood.  That way there won't be any excitement at all.  You may have to reclamp to reach all the holes, but it will be a lot safer.


----------



## erikmannie

Very cheap 115 piece drill set. I had almost no numbered drills, lettered drills or 1/64” increment drills.

Under $56 with tax & delivery.


----------



## WobblyHand

erikmannie said:


> Very cheap 115 piece drill set. I had almost no numbered drills, lettered drills or 1/64” increment drills.
> 
> Under $56 with tax & delivery.
> 
> View attachment 404142


Hope they are made of HSS.  Although I would have been tempted at that price, my experience with HF HSS drills tells me they may be ok for wood and plastic, but not so good for steel.  Check the drill points for correct sharpening, and check that they are straight by rolling them.  Good luck with them.  Seems too inexpensive, if you know what I mean.  3 stars with only 2 reviews doesn't sound promising.  Typically the 2 reviews are from family members!  Do let us know how they turn out.  Maybe they are ok.


----------



## Larry$

Papa Charlie said:


> So got it for what I think is a pretty good price at only $150. Still need a lower (Cabinet) but will keep my eyes out.


Looks to be very nice & @ a good price. I bought a HF base cabinet a while back, seems quite nice an was a decent price but the price has since gone up. Got a Craftsman base & upper when the local Sears store was closing, big discounts. All the Chinese cabinets seem similarly made but vary in drawer sizing and details. I seem to add "stuff" faster than places to put it. The electrical control cabinet that I gutted and put shelves in has been a good solution for larger heavy items.


----------



## tq60

We have a set of the HF drills.

They do NOT appear to be made from drill rod that is ground.

An 1/8 bit BENT in a 90 instead of breaking and another one exploded.

Look close at some of the boxes, you will see "forged" on them.

Wrenches are forged...not drill bits.

They have oddball grain.





Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


----------



## woodchucker

tq60 said:


> We have a set of the HF drills.
> 
> They do NOT appear to be made from drill rod that is ground.
> 
> An 1/8 bit BENT in a 90 instead of breaking and another one exploded.
> 
> Look close at some of the boxes, you will see "forged" on them.
> 
> Wrenches are forged...not drill bits.
> 
> They have oddball grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


I have a 20 year old set of HF, been great as a filler between my USA made. I think I got them when they were good. Glad I did.  Maybe one has disappointed me.. maybe... I go to them first for a lot of stuff. I go to the USA for more important drilling.  My tap drill are all USA.


----------



## WobblyHand

tq60 said:


> We have a set of the HF drills.
> 
> They do NOT appear to be made from drill rod that is ground.
> 
> An 1/8 bit BENT in a 90 instead of breaking and another one exploded.
> 
> Look close at some of the boxes, you will see "forged" on them.
> 
> Wrenches are forged...not drill bits.
> 
> They have oddball grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


Have to agree.   At that price point, everything needs to be scrutinized.  Can't assume it will be good.  I was trying to not sound like a basher.  

If you need a relatively well sized hole (not way off) and a hole that is somewhat straight, I wouldn't recommend HF HSS drills.  If I have a hole I need to drill that matters I don't use HF HSS drills.  They are barely ok for wood.  They are rarely ground properly.  At least that has been my experience with my set.  The "cobalt" set is much better, but still, I can't quite trust them.  If I need a low drama hole that drills properly, I buy a decent drill bit.  I know drill bits are not precision instruments, but the better brands really are made better and drill easier.


----------



## Larry$

woodchucker said:


> It was not a good place to work in general.


Working at a place that you are not happy @ isn't worth it. Move on or become self employed. Life's too short.


----------



## Larry$

erikmannie said:


> I retire in 9 years, 2 months.


At the rate you are burning your body, you will be lucky to have one when you retire, assuming it lasts that long.
The things you are buying today may not be of that much value to you in the future. Treat your body well, it's your only one.


----------



## woodchucker

yep, I burned mine out with sports and motorcycles, and stupid things. My moto was enjoy it while I was young.
My knees and feet are giving up on me. the arthritis from the damage is making it hard for me to get comfortable.

I'm now a HAS Been because I can't do most things any more.   I would not have taken Larry's advice.. too dumb.. I had a motto, but if I knew how much pain I'd be in, I would have rethought that motto.  Is HasBeen better than can't do now... I have memories, some I don't even remember...


----------



## Bi11Hudson

erikmannie said:


> Very cheap 115 piece drill set. I had almost no numbered drills, lettered drills or 1/64” increment drills.
> 
> Under $56 with tax & delivery.
> 
> View attachment 404142


There are many "junky, Wally World" sellers of cheap Chinese bits. I acquired a similar set from Amazon. I knew (well assumed) it was junk when I ordered it. 1/32 to 1/2 by 64ths will not be cheap by any measure. I needed a specific size for soft plastic, building a "gizmo" and didn't want to bring my good drills in the house where Wife absconds with any loose tool. It was really cold, too, near freezing. Too cold to go outside. . .

The "up" side to such drills is that for smaller sizes, the count is usually up there. Several pieces of (marginally) sized accurate steel rod. Conceded, I build small items. a 3/16 inch drill is toward the large end of where I need parts. And short pieces, where I can get more than one item from the butt end of a drill. But taking that into consideration, it was money well spent, *for what I do*. And they are usable for wood or plastic, and easily (little wear of the stone) sharpened.

All in all, they are not "good" drills like a PTD, but are useful for many applications.

.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Purchased or won this Brown and Sharpe caliper on Ebay today. Paid for it but of course haven't received it yet. I had a dial caliper (unbranded) since 1974 and recently had the crystal, plastic, break. Been trying to use it anyway but too many times the reading is under the broken/cracked piece. Another thing is the dial is marked in 0.200" (0-99 x 2), which is very hard for me to read at my age. Sometimes having to use my glasses and a magnifying glass. A real pain.
This new to me caliper is marked in 0.100" (0-99 x1) so that the marks are so much easier to read. Looks to need a good cleaning, but hope that it was worth the cost. Got it for $76, plus $10 shipping and tax. Total $95. 
I looked at newer ones but didn't care for any of them and hate digital. So hope that this one is accurate. Will check it against my mic gauges.


----------



## Badabinski

I may have gone a bit crazy this week.





I bought the large endmills to use at my Makerspace, since the mill there actually has the grunt to use them. The empty black box to the left of the dial test indicator is a very overpriced 1-2-3 block case that I regret buying (I was expecting actual wood, not particle board). To the right of the DTE is a set of 1/32" thin parallels. I'm really great at drilling into my parallels and I'm tired of doing it, so I finally splurged and got a cheap(ish) import set. I'll go into some of the other stuff in more detail below. 

As an aside I've uploaded the above picture to an external image host that doesn't do any compression, so you should be able to zoom in on it. I've also uploaded a copy to the forum as an attachment in case that image host goes away. All of the remaining photos are just uploads to the forum, but they're closer shots so it doesn't matter if they get downsized.


More drills. I now have WAY too many drills The only reason I can give for why I keep buying them is that it _always_ sucks when you don't have the right drill for the job. Being able to punch a 3/4" hole all the way through a 12" long part without needing to flip the thing is just wonderful, and since my lathe only has a 1.5 HP motor, I have to be able to step up to that size progressively. Some day I'll invest in some proper core drills...


This is what I'm most excited about. I've wanted an Interapid dial test indicator for as long as I've been into machining, but I could never justify the price. There was always something else that seemed more important so I made due with cheap import stuff, or I rolled the dice with eBay finds. I actually lucked out and got a VERY nice Compac DTE, but the dial is painfully small (probably 3/4" in diameter). This Interapid has a 1.5" diameter dial and the difference is night and day. I got it brand new from MSC which had the best price I could find.


I also picked up this Eagle Rock scissor knurling tool. My lathe doesn't have the rigidity for a bump knurling tool, so I've been making due with a _very_ cheap import scissor knurler. I already feel confident that my knurls suck because I'm not any good at knurling, but now I'll be able to make crappy knurls with a nice tool.


I have no need for carbide tapered end mills right now (I have no plans to make molds), but This Old Tony has a set of them and I thought they were just super cool. I'll probably never use them, but they were cheap, I was on-call and bored, and I'm a terribly impulsive spender when I'm bored.


----------



## extropic

@Badabinski 

Oh yeh, you got the BUG. Welcome to the club.


----------



## Christianstark

I bought a large chunk of angle iron to cut up for parts to my overbuilt belt grinder. 121 Lbs. for $320ish 

They looked at me like I was nuts loading it into my car.


----------



## woodchucker

Christianstark said:


> I bought a large chunk of angle iron to cut up for parts to my overbuilt belt grinder. 121 Lbs. for $320ish
> 
> They looked at me like I was nuts loading it into my car.
> 
> View attachment 404294


way over built. No wonder they were looking at your like that...
You may not get the award .. This one gets the award.


----------



## Sparkynutz

Yikes. Over $2 per pound. Local scrap yard by me sells angle and just about anything you can imagine for 40c per pound.


----------



## woodchucker

Sparkynutz said:


> Yikes. Over $2 per pound. Local scrap yard by me sells angle and just about anything you can imagine for 40c per pound.


I wish. 
by me my local yard is a nasty SOB that won't sell the metal... and he doesn't just tell ya...


----------



## extropic

Bigger YIKES! $2.64 per pound. It looks (sort of) like hot rolled.

Dimensions?


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Christianstark said:


> I bought a large chunk of angle iron to cut up for parts to my overbuilt belt grinder. 121 Lbs. for $320ish
> 
> They looked at me like I was nuts loading it into my car.
> 
> View attachment 404294


Carrying angle iron in a Porsche 911 is awesome! I would have said that you wanted it to improve weight distribution for street racing


----------



## woodchucker

how'd you know it was a 911? I can see it's a Porsche, but not that it's a 911. 

And what's the round thing under the spoke of the steering wheel?


----------



## f350ca

A couple of years back a buddy left the yard with an 8 foot rough sawn 6x6 timber in his Tesla. Figured it was the fastest piece of pine in the country.

Greg


----------



## sdelivery

rwm said:


> Wow. 15k for the Deckel. I didn't know those were worth that much? What is the spindle on those?
> 
> Edit: NMT40 taper.


To whom? There is a reason it's still for sale at 15k.
It is beautiful but what can it do that my 6k cnc mill won't do?
It's just my opinion but that is out of the hobby league price wise and not efficient enough for the commercial market.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

educated guess - I'm not aware of other models (Boxter, etc) that have a Carrera 4S model designation. Saw that on the sill plates


----------



## DaddyHeath

I was gonna wait and get a DX6, but found this 3600V for $430 shipped!


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> I wish.
> by me my local yard is a nasty SOB that won't sell the metal... and he doesn't just tell ya...


get all kinds of stuff at ours.. lots of copper too


----------



## Papa Charlie

Had a great find today. Looking through Craigslist today and found a Drill Doctor 750X for $35.00. Figured I would go and check it out, worst case, a short drive of about 7 mile from the house.
Looked very newish to me. Maybe a new wheel might be in order, but those are cheap enough. Does from 3/32-3/4" bits. Can't beet that. Sell new on Amazon for $139.


----------



## jwmelvin

Micromaster 618!

Thanks Dave [mention]mmcmdl [/mention]


----------



## woodchucker

jwmelvin said:


> Micromaster 618!
> 
> Thanks Dave [mention]mmcmdl [/mention]


what's the tool grinder in the back left?


----------



## jwmelvin

woodchucker said:


> what's the tool grinder in the back left?



It’s a Delta-Rockwell Toolmaker, kind of a combo tool and cutter grinder and a surface grinder.


----------



## woodchucker

jwmelvin said:


> It’s a Delta-Rockwell Toolmaker, kind of a combo tool and cutter grinder and a surface grinder.


I have one. I noticed the newer 90 degree lift crank.
mine is older.


----------



## jwmelvin

woodchucker said:


> I have one. I noticed the newer 90 degree lift crank.
> mine is older.



Yes it’s a TG-3, from 1972 I believe.


----------



## woodchucker

jwmelvin said:


> Yes it’s a TG-3, from 1972 I believe.


Oh nice. you have the universal head. And you have a coolant tray... nice...

I see they moved the X travel to the left side vs the right. The casting for the base is different too.  Thanks for  showing this. My older model before I completed it.


----------



## Christianstark

woodchucker said:


> how'd you know it was a 911? I can see it's a Porsche, but not that it's a 911.
> 
> And what's the round thing under the spoke of the steering wheel?


It’s a button to start recording on my Horizon camera. It displays RPM, speeds, location on track, g’s etc.


----------



## Christianstark

extropic said:


> Bigger YIKES! $2.64 per pound. It looks (sort of) like hot rolled.
> 
> Dimensions?


I have started cutting it already, but it’s about 4’ long 3/4” thick, and I’m guessing 8”x10”


----------



## Christianstark

Sparkynutz said:


> Yikes. Over $2 per pound. Local scrap yard by me sells angle and just about anything you can imagine for 40c per pound.



It was a drop from my local Metal Supermarkets.


----------



## matthewsx

Have been keeping an eye out for a heat treat oven and this one popped up on Craigslist just a few miles from my house.










Best part was the price.

Free


----------



## Jim F

Got my Starrett 93B today, now I have all 3.


----------



## woodchucker

matthewsx said:


> Have been keeping an eye out for a heat treat oven and this one popped up on Craigslist just a few miles from my house.
> 
> View attachment 404413
> 
> 
> View attachment 404414
> 
> 
> View attachment 404415
> 
> 
> Best part was the price.
> 
> Free


----------



## lordbeezer

Found today but bought 6-7 years ago a 5 gallon bucket 2/3 full of wheel weights under tarp covering t-111 siding.


----------



## woodchucker

lordbeezer said:


> Found today but bought 6-7 years ago a 5 gallon bucket 2/3 full of wheel weights under tarp covering t-111 siding.


And what are you gonna use them for?
 I have a lot of lead rods for installing railings into concrete and lead with another material (makes it hard) and I used to collect the lead, but have no use for it.  And bird shot... I figured I'd use a bunch for balancing my sailplanes, but I don't fly anymore...
You gonna make your own bullets?


----------



## 682bear

lordbeezer said:


> Found today but bought 6-7 years ago a 5 gallon bucket 2/3 full of wheel weights under tarp covering t-111 siding.



I've converted several thousand pounds of wheelweights into projectiles... mostly birdshot. Lead wheelweights are going away, though... most of them now are either iron or zinc.

-Bear


----------



## lordbeezer

Yes. Been casting bullets for 40ish years. Pistol and large bore older single shot rifle. I’m a fan of rolling blocks,martinis,low or hi walls. One alloy for this. One for that. Buy pewter items when I get a deal but most of the stuff is so damn old and pretty I hate to melt them into small ingots.


----------



## NCjeeper

Grabbed a 30HP Rotary Phase converter to power my new Jet lathe (and future HBM). It went on sale 30% off and free shipping, so I pulled the trigger.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought 2 gallons of dark thread cutting oil for $25/gal. plus tax. Free shipping. I use this oil-based CF in the flood coolant system in my lathe.




I also bought 2 gallons of Mobil Vactra #2 for $30/gal. plus tax and shipping. I cleaned all three of my machines today, so that used some way oil. The one-shot lube reservoir in the PM-1660TL apron was quite thirsty.

The bulk dealer on eBay was less than half the price of any other online seller.


----------



## Alcap

Is that Dark Thread Cutting oil water soluble or do you use it as is ?


----------



## IamNotImportant

Alcap said:


> Is that Dark Thread Cutting oil water soluble or do you use it as is ?


maybe, you'd prob would need to mix some dish soap into the water so it dissolves. The soap is the catalyst that enables the oil and the water to mix; otherwise the different densities make the oil float on top of the water.

1 quart of cutting oil
3 cups of dish soap
4 gallons of water


----------



## Brento

My Pantograph Engraver gas finally arrived!!!  I have 12 parts to machine not counting a motor bracket, spindle , base plate, and a master plate. Now to find a 12x14x1 chunk of aluminum as well as a 12x6x3/8 chunk CC of aluminum


----------



## Bi11Hudson

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Carrying angle iron in a Porsche 911 is awesome! I would have said that you wanted it to improve weight distribution for street racing


The thread brings to mind a situation from 1975 or so. I was employed by a company located out in the wilds a few miles. The situation is that there was no 'company driver' so I had to make a pickup at an electrical supply house in town. What I needed was a couple of joints of 1/2 inch EMT, thinwall conduit. Since I was on a Harley FLH, a 74 inch dresser, I picked up a full bundle, 10 joints. And rode back to the shop, on my FLH, with a bundle of 10 joints EMT, 10 feet long strapped to the Harley. Was remembered by salesmen at that location for years for that little stunt. It wasn't heavy and although cumbersome, an FLH had the capacity to handle the length. Most of the excess length was to the front. Ruined the stability of the bike but I could handle it, and no overhang on the rear if someone got too close. Just another sea story brought to mind by someone doing what it took to get the job done.

.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

I've carried all sorts of stuff on the back of my bike that I've found at the side of the road. 10ft piece of 2" sch40 pipe, 8ft piece of 1x2 alu tube that had dogs chasing me most of the way home, dump truck interaxle (that was bloody heavy) and a 5ft tall stuffed bear.



that was like riding with a parachute attached


----------



## Ultradog MN

I pulled the trigger on this yesterday.
Should be here early next week.
Wahlstrom Float Lock 26" model - new.
Still built in the USA


----------



## Christianstark

So I ordered some things to go along with tweaking my PM 833TV mill. I already had the graduated nut for quill stop, but I placed an order for a magnetic DRO scale, and this summing interface.









						M-DRO Linear Encoder Summing Interface
					

The summing interface combines the output of quadrature encoders into a single quadrature output. Applications include combine mill quill with knee travel or lathe compound travel with main carriage travel.




					www.machine-dro.co.uk
				




The goal is to get head and quill values summed together and displayed on my Z Axis DRO from Precision Matthews, and have a more accurate quill stop than OEM. May start a build thread on this.


----------



## DavidR8

Ultradog MN said:


> I pulled the trigger on this yesterday.
> Should be here early next week.
> Wahlstrom Float Lock 26" model - new.
> Still built in the USA



I have building one of those on my project list. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 7milesup

I purchased this last week but put it to use today.  My first time ever utilizing a thread mic.
Today was really also the first time ever doing single point threading.  Had to make up some prototypes for the company.


----------



## woodchucker

7milesup said:


> I purchased this last week but put it to use today.  My first time ever utilizing a thread mic.
> Today was really also the first time ever doing single point threading.  Had to make up some prototypes for the company.


Neil, take a pair of tweezers and grab the bottom of each hole. It will allow the anvils to sit deeper without falling out.
Yesterday they came spilling out, and I made a tool to core them deeper and tighter, only to discover they are already drilled deeper, but were not pulled out. They sit nice now.


----------



## DavidR8

Picked up this Blake 801 coax indicator for $100.


----------



## 7milesup

woodchucker said:


> Neil, take a pair of tweezers and grab the bottom of each hole. It will allow the anvils to sit deeper without falling out.
> Yesterday they came spilling out, and I made a tool to core them deeper and tighter, only to discover they are already drilled deeper, but were not pulled out. They sit nice now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 404746


I was wondering about that.   Thanks for the tip!


----------



## Papa Charlie

Well purchased another Craftsmen Tool Box. This one does not have the large drawer in the upper center. The guy said that the upper center drawer wouldn't open, I can understand this as it was locked and he didn't have the keys. What is with all these boxes not having the keys?
Got if for a great price $100 at least I think it is. Had to do some cleaning, pictures are from CL. The plan, at least for now, is to assign one of these to gunsmithing tools and the other to precision measuring tools.  But we will see, I don't think that any one of them has sufficient room. 

Now I need to see how I can get replace keys or log and keys for them.


----------



## DavidR8

Nice score @Papa Charlie. Is there a key code on the lock?


----------



## woodchucker

Papa Charlie said:


> Well purchased another Craftsmen Tool Box. This one does not have the large drawer in the upper center. The guy said that the upper center drawer wouldn't open, I can understand this as it was locked and he didn't have the keys. What is with all these boxes not having the keys?
> Got if for a great price $100 at least I think it is. Had to do some cleaning, pictures are from CL. The plan, at least for now, is to assign one of these to gunsmithing tools and the other to precision measuring tools.  But we will see, I don't think that any one of them has sufficient room.
> 
> Now I need to see how I can get replace keys or log and keys for them.
> 
> View attachment 404785
> View attachment 404786


just pull the tab out on the inside of the box to remove the lock, or if it's a nut, remove it.  The draw will open.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Thanks guys. Very happy with the purchase. Of course new would have been better but I really cannot complain about the prices I paid for both of them. I don't think you can ever have too much storage. I am tired of having to dig for tools.

@DavidR8 Sure were, just ordered new keys from Easykey.com, they are well named. Fairly reasonable cost $8.87 each, I only purchased one for each box. Shipping was free for First Class, I am in no hurry.

@woodchucker  I already have pulled the tab on the lock, had to do a little prying as it was one of those double lock type so you can lock the drawer or the entire box. Biggest issue was, it appeared that he had tried to pry the door open and had ended up twisting one of the slides. How they ended up putting it into that configuration I don't know. Really took some effort to get the door open. Took a little work to get the slide straightened back out but it moves smoothly now. 

I make it a habit to pull all the drawers, inspect, clean and lube. Both boxes are moving like they are brand new. Do need to put some heat on those stickers, they should come off. Just wondering how much of a difference there will be in the paint as the exposed paint has probably faded over time. Did find a quarter and a penny so kind of got paid for my work.


----------



## DavidR8

Papa Charlie said:


> Thanks guys. Very happy with the purchase. Of course new would have been better but I really cannot complain about the prices I paid for both of them. I don't think you can ever have too much storage. I am tired of having to dig for tools.
> 
> @DavidR8 Sure were, just ordered new keys from Easykey.com, they are well named. Fairly reasonable cost $8.87 each, I only purchased one for each box. Shipping was free for First Class, I am in no hurry.
> 
> @woodchucker  I already have pulled the tab on the lock, had to do a little prying as it was one of those double lock type so you can lock the drawer or the entire box. Biggest issue was, it appeared that he had tried to pry the door open and had ended up twisting one of the slides. How they ended up putting it into that configuration I don't know. Really took some effort to get the door open. Took a little work to get the slide straightened back out but it moves smoothly now.
> 
> I make it a habit to pull all the drawers, inspect, clean and lube. Both boxes are moving like they are brand new. Do need to put some heat on those stickers, they should come off. Just wondering how much of a difference there will be in the paint as the exposed paint has probably faded over time. Did find a quarter and a penny so kind of got paid for my work.


Awesome!
Red fades most of any colour so there will likely be a difference under the stickers unfortunately


----------



## Papa Charlie

DavidR8 said:


> Awesome!
> Red fades most of any colour so there will likely be a difference under the stickers unfortunately


It sure does. The first one I bought must have had the lid open and sat partially covering a window, maybe in a garage that faced the sun, as there is a perfect rectangle faded area on it.


----------



## BGHansen

7milesup said:


> I purchased this last week but put it to use today.  My first time ever utilizing a thread mic.
> Today was really also the first time ever doing single point threading.  Had to make up some prototypes for the company.


You'll love the thread pitch mic's over wires and/or triangles.  I attached a couple of charts with common thread pitch diameters; got it somewhere off the web.  I leave the charts in my thread mic boxes.  I don't cut too many metric threads and don't have a metric chart handy; the info is readily available on the web.

The delta in major diameter to pitch diameter is consistent for a given threads per inch.  If you had to cut a 1"-20 thread (for example), look at any thread pitch diameter for any diameter 20 tpi.  Take that number and subtract it from the major diameter; subtract the delta from your oddball major diameter for the pitch diameter.  In this case, take a 1/2"-20 with a pitch diameter of 0.4675".  Delta from 0.5" is 0.0325".  Subtract that from 1" to get a pitch diameter of 0.9675" for a 1"-20 thread.

Bruce


----------



## 7milesup

BGHansen said:


> You'll love the thread pitch mic's over wires and/or triangles.  I attached a couple of charts with common thread pitch diameters; got it somewhere off the web.  I leave the charts in my thread mic boxes.  I don't cut too many metric threads and don't have a metric chart handy; the info is readily available on the web.
> 
> The delta in major diameter to pitch diameter is consistent for a given threads per inch.  If you had to cut a 1"-20 thread (for example), look at any thread pitch diameter for any diameter 20 tpi.  Take that number and subtract it from the major diameter; subtract the delta from your oddball major diameter for the pitch diameter.  In this case, take a 1/2"-20 with a pitch diameter of 0.4675".  Delta from 0.5" is 0.0325".  Subtract that from 1" to get a pitch diameter of 0.9675" for a 1"-20 thread.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> 
> View attachment 404818


That's awesome Bruce.  Thank you!


----------



## woodchucker

BGHansen said:


> You'll love the thread pitch mic's over wires and/or triangles.  I attached a couple of charts with common thread pitch diameters; got it somewhere off the web.  I leave the charts in my thread mic boxes.  I don't cut too many metric threads and don't have a metric chart handy; the info is readily available on the web.
> 
> The delta in major diameter to pitch diameter is consistent for a given threads per inch.  If you had to cut a 1"-20 thread (for example), look at any thread pitch diameter for any diameter 20 tpi.  Take that number and subtract it from the major diameter; subtract the delta from your oddball major diameter for the pitch diameter.  In this case, take a 1/2"-20 with a pitch diameter of 0.4675".  Delta from 0.5" is 0.0325".  Subtract that from 1" to get a pitch diameter of 0.9675" for a 1"-20 thread.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> 
> View attachment 404818


FYI everyone, those are all 3A PD's...


----------



## Jim F

Got a NOS Starrett wiggler set and a Starrett 56B in the logistics pipeline.


----------



## Larry42

Papa Charlie said:


> it was locked and he didn't have the keys.


I think normally all drawers latch when the top is lowered and then everything is locked by the key. There is probably a rod that moves up & down at the back inside of the case that latches everything. Take some drawers out to have a look see.
If you need a key and there is a # on the face of the lock, a locksmith can make you new keys from that #. 
Nice tool box!


----------



## Papa Charlie

Larry42 said:


> I think normally all drawers latch when the top is lowered and then everything is locked by the key. There is probably a rod that moves up & down at the back inside of the case that latches everything. Take some drawers out to have a look see.
> If you need a key and there is a # on the face of the lock, a locksmith can make you new keys from that #.
> Nice tool box!



Thanks Larry, all drawers do lock with the lid down. But you can also turn the lock and lock the top center drawer with the lid up to secure private items. That was the case for this one. It had been locked and no key. Found a brand new cheap HF air nozzle in the drawer, nothing of value.

Found a great source online called Easykey.com. So easy it seems illegal, JK.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought two gallons of Mobil Vactra #2 on eBay. The seller sent 1 gallon of Mobil Vactra #2, and 1 gallon of Velocite Oil #10 (this is a spindle oil).

I sent the Seller a message. Hopefully they will email me a return label. It will take a week for the wrong oil to travel back from CA to OH, and a week for the right oil to get from OH to CA.

It is too bad that the Seller did not have good *attention to detail*! We should all be glad that these people do not work as nurses or surgeons.

UPDATE: The Seller still hasn’t responded to multiple messages. I had to open up a PayPal claim.


----------



## erikmannie

Alcap said:


> Is that Dark Thread Cutting oil water soluble or do you use it as is ?


It is not water soluble. I use it as a CF on a milling machine & lathe. In addition to this, I mix it in with the Mobilmet 766 in a flood coolant system on another lathe.

I have never used a water soluble CF on a machine tool. I am avoiding the stink.


----------



## erikmannie

IamNotImportant said:


> maybe, you'd prob would need to mix some dish soap into the water so it dissolves. The soap is the catalyst that enables the oil and the water to mix; otherwise the different densities make the oil float on top of the water.
> 
> 1 quart of cutting oil
> 3 cups of dish soap
> 4 gallons of water


I have used the dark thread cutting oil a lot as is, and it has never occurred to me to dilute it.

I don’t want water anywhere near my ways or mill table.


----------



## Jim F

erikmannie said:


> I have used the dark thread cutting oil a lot as is, and it has never occurred to me to dilute it.
> 
> I don’t want water anywhere near my ways or mill table.


Every CNC machine in use uses water soluable lubricoolant........

Do not let that oil sit on anything over the winter, gets hard to remove........


----------



## ttabbal

ETM ER32 MT3 chuck and some TPAC collets. The ETM came with the box, wrench, and a bearing nut. 

Wanted some smaller workholding for the lathe and maybe occasionally in the tailstock. There are even extra spots for more collets. Need to make a bushing for the headstock to hold the drawbar, but that's easy enough.


----------



## Brento

ttabbal said:


> View attachment 404964
> 
> 
> ETM ER32 MT3 chuck and some TPAC collets. The ETM came with the box, wrench, and a bearing nut.
> 
> Wanted some smaller workholding for the lathe and maybe occasionally in the tailstock. There are even extra spots for more collets. Need to make a bushing for the headstock to hold the drawbar, but that's easy enough.


Ive got an ER40 chuck for my lathe. Same thing. I decided to make a drawbar i think for the chuck to keep it help in. Nothing crazy tight. Just enough pressure to tell that chuck to stay spinning and dont stop or pull out.


----------



## woodchucker

ttabbal said:


> View attachment 404964
> 
> 
> ETM ER32 MT3 chuck and some TPAC collets. The ETM came with the box, wrench, and a bearing nut.
> 
> Wanted some smaller workholding for the lathe and maybe occasionally in the tailstock. There are even extra spots for more collets. Need to make a bushing for the headstock to hold the drawbar, but that's easy enough.


ETM is high quality. nice score.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

One of those deals where waiting and watching pays off. $30 bux, plus some shipping. It doesnt rate a "You Suck", I have some work still to do to make it fit. But for under $50 bux total, I got plenty of patience. Good heavy iron, not some import flimsey toy. I suspect a little old fashioned, it doesn't open up, and the screws need to be refitted for length. But to fit the Atlas, all it needs is a flat bottom plate. I have a steady for the small machine that  has been refitted with small roller bearings. Now I got one for the big machine. It is 5 inches from the top of the clearance, 6 inches to the bottom ov the "V" ways. A perfect fit for a Craftsman/Atlas 12 inch machine.


----------



## woodchucker

Bi11Hudson said:


> One of those deals where waiting and watching pays off. $30 bux, plus some shipping. It doesnt rate a "You Suck", I have some work still to do to make it fit. But for under $50 bux total, I got plenty of patience. Good heavy iron, not some import flimsey toy. I suspect a little old fashioned, it doesn't open up, and the screws need to be refitted for length. But to fit the Atlas, all it needs is a flat bottom plate. I have a steady for the small machine that  has been refitted with small roller bearings. Now I got one for the big machine. It is 5 inches from the top of the clearance, 6 inches to the bottom ov the "V" ways. A perfect fit for a Craftsman/Atlas 12 inch machine.
> View attachment 404966


Sure does rate a


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

Snagged an old Lufkin 4-40" inside micrometer set off of eBay, just received it today and got it cleaned up.
Nice thing about this set is someone stuck an extra mic in it, so this set is good for 1.5-40"

Quite pleased with it, they measure out good and accurate.


----------



## erikmannie

PM-1054TV-3PH:



			https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/1054t-precision-knee-milling-machines/
		


This is 3-phase, variable speed.




I need to find out the dimensions for it’s footprint. Also, I need to find out if a pallet jack fits under that base; I am hiring a rigging company, & I am curious how they will move this across the garage.


----------



## Firstram

And you were getting so much closer!


----------



## erikmannie

Firstram said:


> And you were getting so much closer!


Closer to what?


----------



## Suzuki4evr

woodchucker said:


> way over built. No wonder they were looking at your like that...
> You may not get the award .. This one gets the award.
> View attachment 404296


This is an EVERY DAY ocurance in South Africa. It is not unusual anymore,it is just a matter of how creative they get. I can name a few,but one I can think of just now was the car ontop of a Toyota minibus taxi fully loaded with people and luggage. 

Welcome to South Africa


----------



## Firstram

erikmannie said:


> Closer to what?


To paying off your tools, this is the what did you buy today thread!


----------



## erikmannie

Firstram said:


> To paying off your tools, this is the what did you buy today thread!


Ah, yes. I finished paying off the last of the $55K worth of “lathe + tooling” loans yesterday morning. Time to buy more equipment!


----------



## Aukai

I sent you a message....


----------



## Papa Charlie

Well when it rains it pours. I was scanning through Marketplace and came across an add for a Craftsman 12-drawer Tool Chest and a 8-drawer Tool Roll-A-Way. The add was only 3 hours old when I came across it last night and he was asking $140 for both. Sent a message, then sent another this morning around 4:15AM. I hadn't heard anything by 10AM so figured it was gone. Got a text at 11AM and asked if I was still interested. Well they looked like brand new. Still had the paper work in them. But the upper Chest was missing the lock so he said he would take $20 off, which meant I got both of them for $120. 

I have to stop for a while. The storage unit is filling up with Craftsman tool boxes. The big double Roll-A-Way is one that I have had for many years.

This should help get my tools organized. At least it is a good start. But you know how space fills up way too fast. I have so many tools in boxes, tool bags and all those plastic boxes you see in the background. 

Lathe, belt sander and other equipment are under the moving blanket to the left. Still looking for a horizontal band saw and welder to replace the ones I sold before we moved up to WA.


----------



## woodchucker

Papa Charlie said:


> Well when it rains it pours. I was scanning through Marketplace and came across an add for a Craftsman 12-drawer Tool Chest and a 8-drawer Tool Roll-A-Way. The add was only 3 hours old when I came across it last night and he was asking $140 for both. Sent a message, then sent another this morning around 4:15AM. I hadn't heard anything by 10AM so figured it was gone. Got a text at 11AM and asked if I was still interested. Well they looked like brand new. Still had the paper work in them. But the upper Chest was missing the lock so he said he would take $20 off, which meant I got both of them for $120.
> 
> I have to stop for a while. The storage unit is filling up with Craftsman tool boxes. The big double Roll-A-Way is one that I have had for many years.
> 
> This should help get my tools organized. At least it is a good start. But you know how space fills up way too fast. I have so many tools in boxes, tool bags and all those plastic boxes you see in the background.
> 
> Lathe, belt sander and other equipment are under the moving blanket to the left. Still looking for a horizontal band saw and welder to replace the ones I sold before we moved up to WA.


----------



## Papa Charlie

woodchucker said:


>


Thank you very much


----------



## wachuko

Got a rolling toolbox and one more workbench table for the new house… now I can organize things a bit better





I only had time to assemble everything and put it somewhere… now to start working on organizing all the stuff…

For example, the drill bit storage is not going there…


----------



## Papa Charlie

wachuko said:


> Got a rolling toolbox and one more workbench table for the new house… now I can organize things a bit better
> 
> View attachment 405102
> 
> View attachment 405103
> 
> I only had time to assemble everything and put it somewhere… now to start working on organizing all the stuff…
> 
> For example, the drill bit storage is not going there…


On the list is to get a set of those drill bit cabinets.


----------



## woodchucker

yesterday we went to the flea market to buy some fleas... we found them.

I bought something I am not going to show... an idiot purchased them on impulse... I get them home and they are not what I thought they were. IDIOT...!!!!

But I did get a few things that are useful. A set of adjustable reamers (made in India) were all new and individually bagged except for 1. They look good. Only problem is they avoid between 9/32 and 7/16  (that's the 5/16 range my 2nd most used size).
A little enco magnet that cleaned up real nice. and a center finder , I'll give to my son for his drill press.

it's funny the little green magnet grabs better than my 175 lb grip Noga on my lathe.


----------



## Christianstark

woodchucker said:


> yesterday we went to the flea market to buy some fleas... we found them.
> 
> I bought something I am not going to show... an idiot purchased them on impulse... I get them home and they are not what I thought they were. IDIOT...!!!!
> 
> But I did get a few things that are useful. A set of adjustable reamers (made in India) were all new and individually bagged except for 1. They look good. Only problem is they avoid between 9/32 and 7/16  (that's the 5/16 range my 2nd most used size).
> A little enco magnet that cleaned up real nice. and a center finder , I'll give to my son for his drill press.
> 
> it's funny the little green magnet grabs better than my 175 lb grip Noga on my lathe.
> View attachment 405116


Are the adjustable reamers something you do by hand, or are these able to be done on the machine? Sorry for the rookie question.


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> yesterday we went to the flea market to buy some fleas... we found them.
> 
> I bought something I am not going to show... an idiot purchased them on impulse...



You tease... come on!! Share! Share!


----------



## woodchucker

Christianstark said:


> Are the adjustable reamers something you do by hand, or are these able to be done on the machine? Sorry for the rookie question.


these are hand reamers. They are adjustable, so I would tend to avoid running them in a machine. just because the blade may say NO.. and you would not feel it..   

I have run hand reamers in power mode and been fine. The regular reamers that have a square for a handle have a taper in the beginning. I used such a taper one time without thinking about that, for a shallow hole. Thinking I had reamed to size, I had not...it caused a lot of issues. 
But these will not run under power.


----------



## mmcmdl

Wish I could find some new tools . Only thing I bought was another 20 gallons of un-ethanol gas . Was out in the garage all day yesterday , every piece of equipment started right up . All the chainsaws , both generators , weed whackers etc .

I find it quite funny . I run up into Pa. for the gas . The price of un-ethanol was $4.79 gallon , 90 octane . The price of mid-grade unleaded was the same price . $4.79 a gallon with added ethanol and only 89 octane . Makes no sense .


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> You tease... come on!! Share! Share!


I would... but I would have to kill you FIRST


----------



## Aukai

Di-Acro #2 retail for everything in the picture is ~4400.00, with tax I got this for  1700.00, but I still have to pay shipping.


----------



## NCjeeper

^^^^
We had that exact one in my High School shop class.


----------



## Jim F

mmcmdl said:


> Wish I could find some new tools . Only thing I bought was another 20 gallons of un-ethanol gas . Was out in the garage all day yesterday , every piece of equipment started right up . All the chainsaws , both generators , weed whackers etc .
> 
> I find it quite funny . I run up into Pa. for the gas . The price of un-ethanol was $4.79 gallon , 90 octane . The price of mid-grade unleaded was the same price . $4.79 a gallon with added ethanol and only 89 octane . Makes no sense .


welcome to my nightmare........


----------



## Aukai

It came from a school shop class


----------



## matthewsx

mmcmdl said:


> Wish I could find some new tools . Only thing I bought was another 20 gallons of un-ethanol gas . Was out in the garage all day yesterday , every piece of equipment started right up . All the chainsaws , both generators , weed whackers etc .
> 
> I find it quite funny . I run up into Pa. for the gas . The price of un-ethanol was $4.79 gallon , 90 octane . The price of mid-grade unleaded was the same price . $4.79 a gallon with added ethanol and only 89 octane . Makes no sense .


This is the best thing for all your small and rarely used engines. Second best is run them dry so nothing's left in the tank and drain float bowl (spray some fogging oil to prevent rust everywhere for good measure). Third best is Startron (no connection) in high test fuel. 

Just a little tip from an old small engine mechanic....

John


----------



## Dhal22

I bought a mill today.   A bit big for hobby use but I'll make some parts for my businesses as well.


----------



## mmcmdl

Is that a FTV-1 or 2 ? Either way , nice machine .  

I bought a set of Gator blades for the zero turn yesterday ..............................................not too exciting but it's what I do these days .


----------



## wachuko

mmcmdl said:


> Is that a FTV-1 or 2 ? Either way , nice machine .
> 
> I bought a set of Gator blades for the zero turn yesterday ..............................................not too exciting but it's what I do these days .


You just reminded me that I have the mulch kit that I need to install in my JD 240... Sucker is still in the box...

On other news, we made some blackout curtains for the RV...  RV came with beautiful wood blinds that are not that great at blocking the light when you want to sleep in.... 




This will do the trick.  When not in use we will just roll them up and use a leather band to keep them out of the way.


----------



## Steve-F

Nice! What flavor RV?


----------



## wachuko

Steve-F said:


> Nice! What flavor RV?


2018 Airstream Interstate Lounge Tommy Bahama... it is basically an extended Sprinter van.  We have a motorcycle carrier on the hitch in the back where we carry the Vespa.  In a few months I need to swap that carrier for one better suited for the Vespa small wheels... this one was a cheap one I got from HF, but works best with motorcycle that have larger wheels.  Getting a Versa Haul VH-55 to replace it.







I can't leave stuff alone, so I have made a few modifications:


Made the shelf you see in the back...out of 80-20 material
Swapped the plastic round toilet for an elongated porcelain one... because no decent man should have to suffer with a round toilet...
Made a base for a Lagun bracket system - I hated the tubes you thread in a base on the floor... Got rid of the tubes and the base (made some covers where the base was to cover the holes on the floor), and made my own table (the one that comes with the RV is nice but super heavy)... Got a few sheets of the matching laminate for all the projects...
Changed the small sink for a proper one...
Added a few more batteries and a 4th solar panel...
Added an ARB air compressor
Additional LED lights in front and back
Added a ladder in the back
Raised the propane fill setup to avoid accidents backing into a parking spot - this I sent to Airstream... now all new ones come with the setup higher and hidden... did not even get a t-shirt as a thank you for the idea...
The list goes on and on...

It is just the two of us on the trips... so this is perfect.  I can drive it like a normal van... and park in most places...










LP fill port relocation

Before






After - cut the side skirt, cut the bracket, raised it and secured in place... modified the side skirt with a stainless steel piano hinge... some trim to cover the cuts and voila!  No longer have to worry about taking out the fill port with something when backing up...


----------



## wachuko

Oh carp.... sorry guys... this is the Buy thread... not the Project of the day tread 

I did buy the Heavy-Duty Snap Fastener Pliers to make the blackout curtains...


----------



## IamNotImportant

mmcmdl said:


> Is that a FTV-1 or 2 ? Either way , nice machine .
> 
> I bought a set of Gator blades for the zero turn yesterday ..............................................not too exciting but it's what I do these days .


g5's or g6's?


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> Oh carp.... sorry guys... this is the Buy thread... not the Project of the day tread
> 
> I did buy the Heavy-Duty Snap Fastener Pliers to make the blackout curtains...
> 
> View attachment 405194


so did you pick that up in a pinch?


----------



## WobblyHand

Received a 4" digital caliper that I will convert into a tailstock digital readout for my Grizzly G0752Z. This was an evilBay cheapo part.  $12.99 including shipping!  It seems the new norm is for the customer to clean the parts/tools they buy.  Kind of grimy most everywhere.  Due to the crud on it, the sliding was a bit stiff.  But it does work, and will clean up ok with a little work on my part.  A minor clean up improved it quite a bit.  I will take it apart some more and see if I can smooth out the travel a bit.  Reads to 0.01mm and 0.0005", but hey, I'll check it on a 123 block and see what it says.


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> Received a 4" digital caliper that I will convert into a tailstock digital readout for my Grizzly G0752Z. This was an evilBay cheapo part.  $12.99 including shipping!  It seems the new norm is for the customer to clean the parts/tools they buy.  Kind of grimy most everywhere.  Due to the crud on it, the sliding was a bit stiff.  But it does work, and will clean up ok with a little work on my part.  A minor clean up improved it quite a bit.  I will take it apart some more and see if I can smooth out the travel a bit.  Reads to 0.01mm and 0.0005", but hey, I'll check it on a 123 block and see what it says.
> View attachment 405256


i believe that i have one like that one.. i never use it.. don't trust it


----------



## WobblyHand

IamNotImportant said:


> i believe that i have one like that one.. i never use it.. don't trust it


Does it give wrong values?  Lose zero?  Why don't you trust it? 

My Harbor Freight 6" digital calipers have been relatively good, I used to buy them for $9.99 when they were on sale.  Of course, they aren't $9.99 anymore, but they are ok for shop use.  For real measurements, I use a micrometer.  So anyways, thought I would take a chance on them, better than reading 1/8" marks off the tailstock.

Edit:  Just measured a piece of keystock with my Starrett dial caliper, I got 0.374".  With the $12.99 caliper I got 0.374".  Hardly definitive, but not so bad.  Measured the thickness of my No. 305R Starrett scale at 0.0165" on both.  I'd expect that both calipers need to have their zeros checked, but so far it is ok.


----------



## NCjeeper

Fed Ex Freight truck just dropped off my 30 HP RPC. Man it is a big sucker.


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> Does it give wrong values?  Lose zero?  Why don't you trust it?
> 
> My Harbor Freight 6" digital calipers have been relatively good, I used to buy them for $9.99 when they were on sale.  Of course, they aren't $9.99 anymore, but they are ok for shop use.  For real measurements, I use a micrometer.  So anyways, thought I would take a chance on them, better than reading 1/8" marks off the tailstock.
> 
> Edit:  Just measured a piece of keystock with my Starrett dial caliper, I got 0.374".  With the $12.99 caliper I got 0.374".  Hardly definitive, but not so bad.  Measured the thickness of my No. 305R Starrett scale at 0.0165" on both.  I'd expect that both calipers need to have their zeros checked, but so far it is ok.


over all.. for the most part.. it gives a consistent number.. just that it is not the correct number


----------



## WobblyHand

IamNotImportant said:


> over all.. for the most part.. it gives a consistent number.. just that it is not the correct number


That's too bad.  Sorry that it didn't work out.  It seems they all don't stink - just some of them.  I had one that ate batteries.  Trashed it, since it was inexpensive to begin with.  Bought a different one it was fine.  Hope this new one lasts a while.


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> That's too bad.  Sorry that it didn't work out.  It seems they all don't stink - just some of them.  I had one that ate batteries.  I got trashed it, since it was inexpensive to begin with.  Bought a different one it it was fine.  Hope this new one lasts a while.


i have another one that is a 6 inch version and it works great.. and i have a mitutoyo that is a dial version.. that is a lil "worn out" ..


----------



## tq60

Stopped by our pawn shop today, for 75 bucks got a handful of stuff, a couple SD drill bits, 1 inch and a 1 3/64, both USA, one m.

A vermont american rethreading die abd file set, the dies are same size as the normal nut so tight space and a socket works.

2 bags of taps ans a few additional loise ones and a couple center drills.

There were 2 unusual items.

A odd looking micrometer, Starret 208, later discovered it is for measuring cans.

This one also has the depth probe.

Measures wire too.

Other interesting thing, volt and ammeter for Frigidaire rotary refriderators with instructions.

This plugs in to power then unit plugs into this, looks new and classy, not a bad haul.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			











Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


----------



## Dhal22

mmcmdl said:


> Is that a FTV-1 or 2 ? Either way , nice machine .
> 
> I bought a set of Gator blades for the zero turn yesterday ..............................................not too exciting but it's what I do these days .


FTV-2.


----------



## Papa Charlie

No picture, but had ordered replacement keys for the two Craftsman tool boxes that I recently purchased and posted picture for. Got the keys and one worked but found out that one of the locks had a broken piece inside. So contacted Craftsman's Customer Service through their website, providing them with the model number for each of them. The response for replacement locks came from a company called Waterloo who makes tool boxes for Craftsman. The full company name is Stanley Black & Decker – Waterloo Division. Since I do not see Craftsman in the name, I am making the assumption that they don't make the current models. But according to the Customer Service rep I spoke with when I placed the order, they do or have made quite a few.

Anyway, I was able to order the complete lock assemblies for all three top boxes and had them set with a common key between them. Total cost for all three lock assemblies (Purchase, tax, freight) was around $40. 

Thought I would post this just in case someone else has Craftsman tool boxes, where they have lost the keys, locks don't work or what to make them all keyed alike.

craftsman.com


----------



## jwmay

Here's the craziest thing I ever bought I think. I thought about the HF version, but this has all the "upgrades" people end up doing to their HF version, plus cast iron wheels, and a fence included. I just decided I wanted all the upgrades, and didn't want to do the upgrading. Not the most economical, but with any luck it'll be the only one I ever buy. This just might be my very first "buy once, cry once" attempt. Ha! Note if you've got a bad opinion of this particular one, just don't tell me! Lol


----------



## Bi11Hudson

As a rule, most of my purchases are for my model building and have little or no relationship to machining. And as such, have little or no interest to PM users. *However*, there is the situation where I am so immensly proud of an acquisition to my modeling stable that I want to share a photo, even if the model is beyond comprehension of most users. There are some modelers that will appreciate it, the rest of you will just have to tolerate my obsession. 

Such models, priced new, are simply beyond my ability to pay. The advent of eBay has helped in this regard, providing a sales ability for used or "pre-owned" models so they provide income to the seller and wider availibility to the more remote buyer. Such is the case here, the new version of this model is beyond my ability to own. As a used model, the normal asking price is also too high. In this case, I literally stumbled across the advert asking much less than normal, on the order of 40%. And even after bidding, closing price was within my reach. ie. I barely won by a very few dollars. It is not here yet, being in the postal system.

To the average person, the model will be meaningless. It, as pictured, will be around 6 or 7 inches long, a little under 1-1/2 inches wide, and about 2 inches tall. A commercially produced model, all piping and details are seperately added.  There is a second piece, not shown here. But uninteresting. . .  The original has an interesting history, dating back to the 1916-1818 era. Originally ordered by the Czar of Russia, before delivery his being deposed, the locomotives were reguaged to U.S. standard guage and sold in the States. Several buyers acquired them, including a local road. (SLSF, Frisco) Though having an "official" name, they are known as "Russians" to most people.
A photo:​


----------



## woodchucker

wow, lots of detail.  nice Bill. enjoy.


----------



## f350ca

Very impressive Bill. I remember as a kid being awed by the brass engines in the hobby shop. 
Thanks for sharing

Greg


----------



## WobblyHand

Some odds and ends that I bought, and a couple of things that I got from my Mom's house.

First, bought some replacement parting blades in M42.  Managed to have my AXA toolholder fall with the parting blade in it tail down, and it snapped off the blade.  So needed the replacements.  Also broke down and bought a thread mic from Shars.



Visited Mom today, who encouraged me to go into my Dad's workshop, and take things if they would be useful, some of which are pictured below.  Got a brand new in package set of metric hex wrenches with long handles.  The smallest wrench is 3 inches long (75mm).  That will be nice down in the shop.  Also got a pair of 2" long toolmakers clamps marked only with 4481 and USA.


Also got a nice set of scissors/shear, one of the nicer one's I have seen in a while.  The marking on it is Compton U Set.  I haven't seen this feature before, a reverse wound spring wire under the screw head.  All I can say is that the scissors are set up relatively well, as it cut the insipid oily plastic bag that the thread mic was packaged in very easily.  The scissor edge is nearly metal to metal the entire cut - which is as it should be, but it is not hard cutting.  I'm glad that the scissors caught my eye.


Also found a thermocouple module that reads directly on an analog meter.  Very old school, the unit comes complete in it's own leather pouch. The iron-constantan thermocouple still works, although it seems to have a fast attack and slow decay.  Must be the sort of massive blob on the end of the thermocouple.


One last thing I found on my Dad's workbench, was an odd wrench.  Seems the jaw is not quite straight, but on the other side of this appears to be my Mom's father's initials.


There's more stuff, but I have to get them out of the car first.  An 11 transistor short wave radio that was our only connection to the world when my family was stationed out on Kwajalein in 1964-1965, (working on the ABM), a small spot welder, about 100 3" speakers, an interesting box of raw waxes including real 100% pure carnauba wax pucks, a Tektronix 442? analog oscilloscope, and a pile of project parts that I was working on some 50 odd years ago.


----------



## WobblyHand

Here is a picture of the multi-band radio we had in Kwajalein.  Still works.  Needs a restoration, but it plays.


JVC technology circa 1963!  11 transistor radio.


Was kind of satisfying to turn it on and hear an oldies station.  All we could receive back then was in the shortwave bands.


----------



## WobblyHand

One more interesting item I found in the garage.  An old tire gauge, made by A. Schrader's Son Inc., the inventors of the Schrader valve, commonly seen on automobile tires and some bicycle tires today.  This gauge is short and fat!  First patent in 1909, followed by others in 1916, 1922, and 1923.  Came in a custom leather pouch.


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> One more interesting item I found in the garage.  An old tire gauge, made by A. Schrader's Son Inc., the inventors of the Schrader valve, commonly seen on automobile tires and some bicycle tires today.  This gauge is short and fat!  First patent in 1909, followed by others in 1916, 1922, and 1923.  Came in a custom leather pouch.
> View attachment 405356


that tire gauge is neat.  Very small.. does it use the standard pop out measuring device. Or something different?


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> that tire gauge is neat.  Very small.. does it use the standard pop out measuring device. Or something different?


Pretty sure it pops out.  I'll find out tomorrow when I try it.  A bit cold and dark to try now.  It is about .575 caliber, give or take, at the popout, reminds me of a big cartridge.

As it turns out, it isn't valuable in the slightest.  Found one on eBay for $10.  I'm sure the one I have was used by my Granddad as he had a tire shop.  I had a summer job there one year.  Worked my behind off there.  Declined to work there the following summer...


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> Pretty sure it pops out.  I'll find out tomorrow when I try it.  A bit cold and dark to try now.  It is about .575 caliber, give or take, at the popout, reminds me of a big cartridge.
> 
> As it turns out, it isn't valuable in the slightest.  Found one on eBay for $10.  I'm sure it was used by my Granddad as he had a tire shop.  I had a summer job there one year.  Worked my behind off there.  Declined to work there the following summer...


it might be valuable. you never know. just because someone has 10 ... but it's also cool.... so is price important?  somethings are just cool to have because no one else has it, and it came from your grandad.


----------



## matthewsx

Those things are a real connection to the past. I have tools from my dad that I will never use but won’t part with for anything. The scissors though. You’ll use them all the time.

John


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> it might be valuable. you never know. just because someone has 10 ... but it's also cool.... so is price important?  somethings are just cool to have because no one else has it, and it came from your grandad.


I like it, because it is an interesting shape and a heck of a lot easier to carry.  Have no idea if it is easy to use.  But yes, I'm keeping it because it was my Granddad's.


----------



## WobblyHand

matthewsx said:


> Those things are a real connection to the past. I have tools from my dad that I will never use but won’t part with for anything. The scissors though. You’ll use them all the time.
> 
> John


I'm surprised at how nice the scissors are.  Way better than the cheesy units they sell nowadays.  I had a pair of new scissors break when cutting cardboard.  These scissors feel nice and solid, but can cut fine items.


----------



## matthewsx

WobblyHand said:


> I'm surprised at how nice the scissors are.  Way better than the cheesy units they sell nowadays.  I had a pair of new scissors break when cutting cardboard.  These scissors feel nice and solid, but can cut fine items.


I have a similar pair, I think they still make something close but don't want to know what they cost. What you have were probably professional grade back then and also not cheap....

John


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> I'm surprised at how nice the scissors are.  Way better than the cheesy units they sell nowadays.  I had a pair of new scissors break when cutting cardboard.  These scissors feel nice and solid, but can cut fine items.


that's because they were made correctly, with a curve to the blades I'll bet so they rub each other while closing.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

A comment in passing about the thermocouple: The "bead" on the end of the wire is where the two leads were fused together. When I made type K t'couples way back when, the process was to twist the wire together, attach a welder lead, and dip in a cup of mercury. That formed the ball. If the meter is calibrated in degrees, it is specific to the type of t'couple connected. If it is calibrated in millivolts, it can be used for any combination of metals making up the t'couple. For your own information, on t'couples in days past, the RED wire is the negative lead.

.


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> that's because they were made correctly, with a curve to the blades I'll bet so they rub each other while closing.


Yes, they have that nice curve to them, so they rub at the moving cutting edge as the edge progresses along the blade.  Think the spring wire under the screw is an anti rotation device to keep the screw from loosening.  Never seen that on scissors before.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Bi11Hudson said:


> As a rule, most of my purchases are for my model building and have little or no relationship to machining. And as such, have little or no interest to PM users. *However*, there is the situation where I am so immensly proud of an acquisition to my modeling stable that I want to share a photo, even if the model is beyond comprehension of most users. There are some modelers that will appreciate it, the rest of you will just have to tolerate my obsession.
> 
> Such models, priced new, are simply beyond my ability to pay. The advent of eBay has helped in this regard, providing a sales ability for used or "pre-owned" models so they provide income to the seller and wider availibility to the more remote buyer. Such is the case here, the new version of this model is beyond my ability to own. As a used model, the normal asking price is also too high. In this case, I literally stumbled across the advert asking much less than normal, on the order of 40%. And even after bidding, closing price was within my reach. ie. I barely won by a very few dollars. It is not here yet, being in the postal system.
> 
> To the average person, the model will be meaningless. It, as pictured, will be around 6 or 7 inches long, a little under 1-1/2 inches wide, and about 2 inches tall. A commercially produced model, all piping and details are seperately added.  There is a second piece, not shown here. But uninteresting. . .  The original has an interesting history, dating back to the 1916-1818 era. Originally ordered by the Czar of Russia, before delivery his being deposed, the locomotives were reguaged to U.S. standard guage and sold in the States. Several buyers acquired them, including a local road. (SLSF, Frisco) Though having an "official" name, they are known as "Russians" to most people.
> A photo:​
> View attachment 405350


Bill,
That is an amazing piece. I have always loved trains. As a kid, I not only had models, but drew them constantly. Even now as an old fart, I still love the trains. Although I only have one more modern large scale train set but with enough track to go through several rooms of a house. 
The construction and attention to detail of this is simply amazing. Thanks very much for sharing this. Would like to see some more of your hobby.
Patrick


----------



## Susan_in_SF

darkzero said:


> Don't remember if there is an existing thread like this. Many of you guys like to share your scores so let's try a new ongoing thread...
> 
> If your here chances are you love tools & always love to get new ones. This thread is not necessarily for gloating (well maybe) but you can if you want but expect to get a "you suck" compliment!
> 
> So what did you buy for the shop today (or recently)? No tool too small or too big, machines, equipment, inexpensive, expensive, good deal or not, whatever. All that matters is if you'd like to share your latest acquisition that put a smile on your face, post 'em up! And you know the drill, we love to see photos!


I couldn't resist these deals, and fell off the old iron wagon again, and bought these 2 vises:

3" York vise ($71.90 ebay auction price + $88 shipping from Great Britain)




6" Wilton off Craigslist for $300.



After I contacted the seller, I then tried to get out of buying the $450 vise (since I know I have too many tools) by saying I only had $300 in my bank account, but couldn't say no when he then said he'd take $300.
The vise without a swivel base weighs about 150lbs.
I need to just say no, but am weak to deals, lol 
Susan


----------



## woodchucker

Susan_in_SF said:


> I couldn't resist these deals, and fell off the old iron wagon again, and bought these 2 vises:
> 
> 3" York vise ($71.90 ebay auction price + $88 shipping from Great Britain)
> View attachment 405404
> View attachment 405405
> 
> 
> 6" Wilton off Craigslist for $300.
> View attachment 405406
> 
> 
> After I contacted the seller, I then tried to get out of buying the $450 vise (since I know I have too many tools) by saying I only had $300 in my bank account, but couldn't say no when he then said he'd take $300.
> The vise without a swivel base weighs about 150lbs.
> I need to just say no, but am weak to deals, lol
> Susan


Wow, nice buys.. welcome back... long time.  BTW you've had Iron deficient blood, so you need more iron in your blood... I think you have achieved that with these purchases.


----------



## brino

Susan_in_SF said:


> I need to just say no, but am weak to deals, lol
> Susan


....but hopefully strong enough to go collect your new prizes!
Brian


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Papa Charlie said:


> Bill,
> That is an amazing piece. I have always loved trains. As a kid, I not only had models, but drew them constantly. Even now as an old fart, I still love the trains. Although I only have one more modern large scale train set but with enough track to go through several rooms of a house.
> The construction and attention to detail of this is simply amazing. Thanks very much for sharing this. Would like to see some more of your hobby.
> Patrick


You should understand I have several pieces of brass. My interest is more toward the mechanical aspect of the hobby. I have a layout, of sorts, that allows me to run a locomotive or car that I have built or updated. Most of my models go beyond 'vintage' to antique or archaic. I often acquire a locomotive or tender as seperate items and mix and match as suits _me_. Steam is my area of interest, 

I don't have any modern diesel models, even plastic. The 'Russian' was a 'spur of the moment' purchase with a very low starting bid where I could play. The 'Russian' is far too large for my modeling, most of my stable represents a backwoods, deep south, depression era road that is hanging on by the skin of their teeth. There are several Mantua (pre-TYCO) models with brass boilers. Both 2-6-0s and 4-4-0 'Belle of the 80s'. They quit making them sometime in the 1950s. Another piece is a NWSL logger that dates around 1965. So old that NWSL has no record if it. I found it cheap, with a bent frame and some other problems. After straightening the frame and remotoring, it runs, sort of. As noisy as a 12":1' loco, but it stays on the track now.

My interest goes back to childhood, before I started school. Somewhere around age 10 (1960ish) I made the transition from toys to models. Essentially by myself, I didn't have a 'mentor' to call on 'til I was out of the service. My father had worked during the 'Great Depression' for Norfolk & Western. My maternal grandfather was a section hand for AGS (now Southern) around the same time. Guess it's in my blood.

Large scale has always fascinated me. I tried 1-1/2" scale, 7-1/2" guage, and still have some pieces. Just junk now, the 'good' stuff is gone. Even with a half acre back yard, not near enough room. And dealing with my chair puts such ideas out of reach these days. I never got into 'live steam', steam is dangerous. NYC and PRR electrics though. . . run from a battery and a welder fed 'third rail'. Now that's railroading. . . I have been NMRA since 1971, went Life a couple of years later. Got my 50 year certificate a couple of months back. I feel like I belong even though I don't associate with the local 100% club. Always been a stand-alone sort. Not anti-social, just not very sociable.

.


----------



## Ultradog MN

wachuko said:


> Oh carp.... sorry guys... this is the Buy thread... not the Project of the day tread
> 
> I did buy the Heavy-Duty Snap Fastener Pliers to make the blackout curtains...
> 
> View attachment 405194



Nice camper. You have more $ than I.
Here's my 1975  27' Overlander hunting shack.
It doesn't go far - or fast. Just move it a couple of times a summer to mow under/around it.


----------



## pdentrem

Garage sale buy this weekend, while we were out in the old car, for the larger grinder. $25 plus 4 wheels to replace the pipsqueek one.

Also have 1 vice too many! Keeping the English made Record 5” that dad bought some decades ago and the Japanese red one. The red one has been beaten on for 40 plus years as it was also my dad’s. The small one in the middle may be much newer but the Chinese heritage makes it suspect versus even the 40 year old one! It goes along with the small grinder. I will list them on our local board.
Pierre

PS the car is NOT for sale!


----------



## mmcmdl

New front calipers and pads for the PowerStroke . Lost the left caliper which was suppose to be brand new less than a year ago . Found out they used rebuilt units . Never seen a caliper basically disintegrate . One pad was non-existant , GONE ! At least it's not windy today .


----------



## woodchucker

mmcmdl said:


> New front calipers and pads for the PowerStroke . Lost the left caliper which was suppose to be brand new less than a year ago . Found out they used rebuilt units . Never seen a caliper basically disintegrate . One pad was non-existant , GONE ! At least it's not windy today .


it's blowing here.

can't trust anyone these days.


----------



## IamNotImportant

mmcmdl said:


> New front calipers and pads for the PowerStroke . Lost the left caliper which was suppose to be brand new less than a year ago . Found out they used rebuilt units . Never seen a caliper basically disintegrate . One pad was non-existant , GONE ! At least it's not windy today .


Ended up getting a Ram..


----------



## wachuko

mmcmdl said:


> New front calipers and pads for the PowerStroke . Lost the left caliper which was suppose to be brand new less than a year ago . Found out they used rebuilt units . Never seen a caliper basically disintegrate . One pad was non-existant , GONE ! At least it's not windy today .


I had to do a double take on who posted, for moment there I thought the post was from @GoceKU


----------



## mmcmdl

450 4"x24" sanding belts met their match at the burn barrel just now . Didn't take them long to dissapear .


----------



## IamNotImportant

mmcmdl said:


> 450 4"x24" sanding belts met their match at the burn barrel just now . Didn't take them long to dissapear .


----------



## woodchucker

mmcmdl said:


> 450 4"x24" sanding belts met their match at the burn barrel just now . Didn't take them long to dissapear .


Were they bad? damn... I have a Rigid oscillating drum/ band sander with 4x24 belts... I could have burned them up for ya.


----------



## mmcmdl

woodchucker said:


> Were they bad? damn... I have a Rigid oscillating drum/ band sander with 4x24 belts... I could have burned them up for ya.


I've had these since buying out the woodshop years ago and they were good . $.50 cents a piece at the yard sales and they were on here as well .  Got some metal going out today so more room . The garage at this point looks like a disaster area but with less stuff .


----------



## DAM 79

NCjeeper said:


> Fed Ex Freight truck just dropped off my 30 HP RPC. Man it is a big sucker.
> View attachment 405270
> 
> View attachment 405271


What version did you get ?? That control box looks like it lays flat ?? I have my ADX mounted up on the wall next to my 3-phase panel .


----------



## Janderso

Susan_in_SF said:


> I couldn't resist these deals, and fell off the old iron wagon again, and bought these 2 vises:
> 
> 3" York vise ($71.90 ebay auction price + $88 shipping from Great Britain)
> View attachment 405404
> View attachment 405405
> 
> 
> 6" Wilton off Craigslist for $300.
> View attachment 405406
> 
> 
> After I contacted the seller, I then tried to get out of buying the $450 vise (since I know I have too many tools) by saying I only had $300 in my bank account, but couldn't say no when he then said he'd take $300.
> The vise without a swivel base weighs about 150lbs.
> I need to just say no, but am weak to deals, lol
> Susan


Yeah,
Welcome back Sue!


----------



## Janderso

mmcmdl said:


> I've had these since buying out the woodshop years ago and they were good . $.50 cents a piece at the yard sales and they were on here as well .  Got some metal going out today so more room . The garage at this point looks like a disaster area but with less stuff .


Dave,
You’ve been talking about your messy shop/garage for quite a while now.
Are you making any progress?
How you feeling old friend?


----------



## NCjeeper

DAM 79 said:


> What version did you get ?? That control box looks like it lays flat ?? I have my ADX mounted up on the wall next to my 3-phase panel .


This one is just the AR. It mounts on top of the motor.


----------



## mmcmdl

Janderso said:


> Dave,
> You’ve been talking about your messy shop/garage for quite a while now.
> Are you making any progress?
> How you feeling old friend?


I just had a member stop in and take some lathe stock out of the garage Jeff . So a little more space now . I gave Tom a grand tour of the disaster areas ,  er  , the garage and the basement .  He saw the results of my 450 sanding belts out in the burn pit ! Yep , feeling a little better each day and the more stuff that leaves , the better I feel !


----------



## Tim9

One day, some day…. I will get me a big building. Cluttered small workshop is getting to me. But, I still know it could always be worse.


----------



## jwmay

I bought my saw a new fancy stand and table extensions. But I guess I took this picture before the extensions got put on.


----------



## Janderso

Tim9 said:


> One day, some day…. I will get me a big building. Cluttered small workshop is getting to me. But, I still know it could always be worse.


Boy isn’t that the truth, it could always be worse.
I watch videos of some very talented machinists in tiny little clutered spaces.
Very few of us have our dream shop.
I’m thankful for what I have, there will always be a bigger, better space.


----------



## snoopdog

Janderso said:


> Boy isn’t that the truth, it could always be worse.
> I watch videos of some very talented machinists in tiny little clutered spaces.
> Very few of us have our dream shop.
> I’m thankful for what I have, there will always be a bigger, better space.


And a faster horse


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Tim9 said:


> One day, some day…. I will get me a big building. Cluttered small workshop is getting to me. But, I still know it could always be worse.


*"Stuff" accumulates to fill 125% of the available space*. A known law of the universe, it may have been Murphy, maybe someone else. I bought the house next door to store "stuff". When that filled up, I built a barn to store *more* stuff. Nowadays I have to walk around boxes in the residence still. Both the storage house and the barn are overflowing.

.


----------



## Janderso

Bi11Hudson said:


> *"Stuff" accumulates to fill 125% of the available space*. A known law of the universe, it may have been Murphy, maybe someone else. I bought the house next door to store "stuff". When that filled up, I built a barn to store *more* stuff. Nowadays I have to walk around boxes in the residence still. Both the storage house and the barn are overflowing.
> 
> .


Gosh Bill, sounds like you may have too much stuff, or you need to buy the house on the other side?


----------



## BGHansen

Bi11Hudson said:


> *"Stuff" accumulates to fill 125% of the available space*. A known law of the universe, it may have been Murphy, maybe someone else. I bought the house next door to store "stuff". When that filled up, I built a barn to store *more* stuff. Nowadays I have to walk around boxes in the residence still. Both the storage house and the barn are overflowing.
> 
> .


----------



## Bi11Hudson

BGHansen said:


>


I often refer to (and watch) George Carlin doing his stuff about stuff. I recall the first time he did it on live TV, I was rolling in the floor, literally. But I don't think he originated the comment. He did a very good job expanding the concept into a skit. But didn't originate it. 'We' often joked around about it when preparing to set sail in the late '60s. It was old hat then. The 'black gang' had a 3X3 locker and a seabag to keep their stuff in. The comment we used in those days was 105%. Any number greater than 100% fits the bill.


Janderso said:


> Gosh Bill, sounds like you may have too much stuff, or you need to buy the house on the other side?


The house on the other side is a little newer than mine, built in the ~'20s. And has a leakey roof at least 4 years it has been empty. With the price of housing these days, I would have to take a mortgage. Being in my 70s now, who in their right mind would give me a 30 year mortgage? And would still need to fix the roof. . . Being on SS, there's no way to pay cash, and I don't like the neighborhood the last 25 years or so anyway. I have been here pushing 50 years(1975). . . I am a pack rat, have been all my life. And this last time married a woman of the same disposition. A 'yankee' to be sure, but a similar background to my own. A parent who came through the depression of the '30s. Saving every piece of wire and scrap of paper. The way things are going, we may have to do it again. And if I had enough cash to pay cash, I would buy a place out in the woods with room for more stuff. . . There is no such thing as _too much_ stuff. Not when it's books and tools and . . .

.


----------



## Janderso

Bi11Hudson said:


> I often refer to (and watch) George Carlin doing his stuff about stuff. I recall the first time he did it on live TV, I was rolling in the floor, literally. But I don't think he originated the comment. He did a very good job expanding the concept into a skit. But didn't originate it. 'We' often joked around about it when preparing to set sail in the late '60s. It was old hat then. The 'black gang' had a 3X3 locker and a seabag to keep their stuff in. The comment we used in those days was 105%. Any number greater than 100% fits the bill.
> 
> The house on the other side is a little newer than mine, built in the ~'20s. And has a leakey roof at least 4 years it has been empty. With the price of housing these days, I would have to take a mortgage. Being in my 70s now, who in their right mind would give me a 30 year mortgage? And would still need to fix the roof. . . Being on SS, there's no way to pay cash, and I don't like the neighborhood the last 25 years or so anyway. I have been here pushing 50 years(1975). . . I am a pack rat, have been all my life. And this last time married a woman of the same disposition. A 'yankee' to be sure, but a similar background to my own. A parent who came through the depression of the '30s. Saving every piece of wire and scrap of paper. The way things are going, we may have to do it again. And if I had enough cash to pay cash, I would buy a place out in the woods with room for more stuff. . . There is no such thing as _too much_ stuff. Not when it's books and tools and . . .
> 
> .


I had a neighbor who was always getting ready to have a garage sale. He had tables with all kinds of stuff. He covered the tables at night and when it rained.
I was going through his stuff one day, his name was Jim, I said Jim, why are you keeping a broken watch band? He says, you never know when you may need a link or two.
This was in 1987. He passed away in 2015. He was still working on that garage sale.

I should add, it all went up in smoke during the, Camp Fire, November 8th, 2018.


----------



## Aukai

Blake Co-Ax indicator "Very good working condition" I hope so for 130.00....


----------



## erikmannie

I bought 3 coin batteries for my Miller autodarkening welding hoods. The batteries in these 2 helmets have been dead for a while.

I have a very cheap autodarkening Lincoln electric welding hood that requires no battery (it is solar powered). The Lincoln helmet gets chosen about 90% of the time because it always works!


----------



## snoopdog

Well, I didn't exactly buy, just asked the lms if they had some flat alum to protect my rotary table. The slab was twice as long and I told him I really didn't need all that much, he waterjetted it in half and let me pick through the other, pretty happy! The guys around here are great!


----------



## Eyerelief

Aukai said:


> Blake Co-Ax indicator "Very good working condition" I hope so for 130.00....
> View attachment 405720


Great Price!  I would really appreciate hearing how you like the Blake (when you get back on your feet).  I have a cheapo Phase 2 that I have been using.  It is suspect at best.  Been thieving for a Blake.  I had seen this unit on the bay, glad I didn't bid on it.


----------



## Winegrower

Eyerelief said:


> Great Price!  I would really appreciate hearing how you like the Blake (when you get back on your feet).  I have a cheapo Phase 2 that I have been using.  It is suspect at best.  Been thieving for a Blake.  I had seen this unit on the bay, glad I didn't bid on it.


I have a Blake, and a friend just bought an eBay $80 coaxial indicator, so I had a chance to compare.  The $80 works, no problem, but it seemed harder to bring to an exact zero position…there was always a couple thousandths of wiggle.   The Blake could be positioned with less than 0.001 TIR, let’s say a half thousandth.

Otherwise, the Blake just looks and feels slightly smoother and more classy…but they both work, and find the same center position.


----------



## BGHansen

I have a Shars coax which lead me to buy the Blake.  My Shars works but the needle swings around 0.010 (and yes I know that it's not 0.010" of runout, it's a relative number) when the spindle is deadnuts centered.  The Blake maybe swings 0.001 or 0.002.  

Bruce


----------



## JRaut

I've got one of the genuine Blake coaxial indicators.

Boy, they sure do seem to get a lot of good press.

I suppose it works, but I never use it. 

Too much effort for what it is, and it takes up a ton of Z height, so you're always stuck moving the knee up/down to swap between the coax and your endmill (or whatever).

For me, it's just always been much more convenient to use either a wiggler or a DTI in an Indicol clamped to the spindle.


----------



## Mini Cooper S

Found it on EBay being sold as "Parts Only" and decided to take a chance on it.  I was able to find a manual and wiring diagram on line.   It isn't pretty but a
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
fter a little cleaning of the jaws, cleaning and minor modification to the clamps, lubrication and adjustments, it works great!  Now I need to make a stand on casters and an enclosure for it.  That way I can roll it out of the way when it is not needed.  I did the same for my 9" South Bend shaper, I don't use it often so I can roll it into storage when not needed.

Richard


----------



## mcostello

I just bought one just like it, Mine has the light, Yours has the grinder. Manual at Vintage Machinery under Do-All butt welder. Anyone have the grinder to sell?


----------



## Aukai

My welder is not working, what did you have to do to the wiring, I see transformers in there, and closed it back up.


----------



## Badabinski

Clough42 got me... I bought one of these on Saturday, and it just showed up today. I have my first print running now. This thing really is massive!




It's a Qidi I Fast dual extruder printer. I'm primarily interested in printing ABS, Nylon, and Polycarbonate, so a heated build environment is kind of a requirement.

Edit: here's a silent video of it printing:





The printer isn't particularly loud, but my phone tries to "zoom" the audio when I zoom the video, which makes the video intolerably loud.


----------



## BGHansen

Mini Cooper S said:


> Found it on EBay being sold as "Parts Only" and decided to take a chance on it.  I was able to find a manual and wiring diagram on line.   It isn't pretty but after a little cleaning of the jaws, cleaning and minor modification to the clamps, lubrication and adjustments, it works great!  Now I need to make a stand on casters and an enclosure for it.  That way I can roll it out of the way when it is not needed.  I did the same for my 9" South Bend shaper, I don't use it often so I can roll it into storage when not needed.
> 
> Richard


Looks like yours has camlocks for clamping the blade which would be a very nice feature.  Mine is on a 1948 16" ML and uses screws to tighten the clamps.  Not bad, but not as nice as yours.  I don't know if there's a proper way of setting the blades into the welder, but I've found setting the teeth at the base of the clamps works fine.  It's easier on my fingers to push the blade ends up against the stop by pushing on the back of the blade instead of on the teeth.

One "quaint" feature on the anneal switch is the ETCH feature.  There was a "pen" available with a copper tip.  Its lead was clamped to the LH jaw.  You'd push down on the ANNEAL button and swing the lever below the switch to hold the momentary ANNEAL switch in.  That made the tip of the pen hot.  A blade or anything conductive could be set on the table (ground) and etched with the pen.

I attached a copy of the wiring diagram from my saw's welder.  Yeah, looks like crap.  Well, it is a 74-year old saw!

Bruce


----------



## sdavilla

Badabinski said:


> Clough42 got me... I bought one of these on Saturday, and it just showed up today. I have my first print running now. This thing really is massive!
> 
> View attachment 405782
> 
> 
> It's a Qidi I Fast dual extruder printer. I'm primarily interested in printing ABS, Nylon, and Polycarbonate, so a heated build environment is kind of a requirement.
> 
> Edit: here's a silent video of it printing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The printer isn't particularly loud, but my phone tries to "zoom" the audio when I zoom the video, which makes the video intolerably loud.



Me too  Clough42 rules...


----------



## Dhal22

Buy it now on eBay, cheap too.  Grabbed it before anyone else saw it.


----------



## jwmay

Blade guard with riving knife and anti kickback pawls for the tablesaw. Recently had an accident that made me decide it's time to stop pressing my luck.


----------



## Winegrower

I got a $10 dry erase board from Staples and hung it solidly under the DRO tray, so I can actually write firmly on it.   The marker is stuck through a hole to the upper right of the board.  It’s magnetic, so I can keep notes and whatnot in front of me…I think this is going to help a lot as right now it’s post-it notes and sketchpads on the bench behind me.  

The drawing on there is sort of a fake, I just put it there to test the board out, but I made those parts yesterday.


----------



## DavidR8

Snagged this basically new Makita angle grinder for $60. 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## brino

DavidR8 said:


> Snagged this basically new Makita angle grinder for $60.



I see that the guard was included. Good!
There have been some nasty photos lately in the goofs and blunders thread; not for the squeamish!

Brian


----------



## Janderso

erikmannie said:


> I bought 3 coin batteries for my Miller autodarkening welding hoods. The batteries in these 2 helmets have been dead for a while.
> 
> I have a very cheap autodarkening Lincoln electric welding hood that requires no battery (it is solar powered). The Lincoln helmet gets chosen about 90% of the time because it always works!


I have to replace my Miller batteries about once a year.


----------



## Mini Cooper S

BGHansen said:


> Looks like yours has camlocks for clamping the blade which would be a very nice feature.  Mine is on a 1948 16" ML and uses screws to tighten the clamps.  Not bad, but not as nice as yours.  I don't know if there's a proper way of setting the blades into the welder, but I've found setting the teeth at the base of the clamps works fine.  It's easier on my fingers to push the blade ends up against the stop by pushing on the back of the blade instead of on the teeth.
> 
> One "quaint" feature on the anneal switch is the ETCH feature.  There was a "pen" available with a copper tip.  Its lead was clamped to the LH jaw.  You'd push down on the ANNEAL button and swing the lever below the switch to hold the momentary ANNEAL switch in.  That made the tip of the pen hot.  A blade or anything conductive could be set on the table (ground) and etched with the pen.
> 
> I attached a copy of the wiring diagram from my saw's welder.  Yeah, looks like crap.  Well, it is a 74-year old saw!
> 
> Bruce


While cleaning and adjusting my welder, I also found that putting the teeth against the back of the clamp worked much better on my test welds. Funny part is that I was taught as an apprentice to do it the other way around!  I have some light weight mechanics gloves with rubberized palms that I use to handle the blade with, much easier on my hands. 

As an apprentice, we would etch die blocks with the etching pen.  really nothing more than a piece of copper with an insulated handle on a cable.  I have been thinking about making one for my welder.


----------



## DavidR8

brino said:


> I see that the guard was included. Good!
> There have been some nasty photos lately in the goofs and blunders thread; not for the squeamish!
> 
> Brian


Definitely! I bought another used 6" Makita that didn't have a guard thinking that I'd be able to buy a replacement. Nope, no longer available.  Another item on the project list...


----------



## mcostello

I will open the beast up and adjust as much as I can. Right now it has no problem blasting through 1/2" saw blades. I am having problems with the jaws being very dirty and grimey. Some one parked it under a bench grinder for years. I woud like to take them apart to clean but they must come apart from the back and the screws have no slots on the front.  Manual says 6000 amps.I would like to make custom jaws making it a rod and bar welder.


----------



## extropic

mcostello said:


> I will open the beast up and adjust as much as I can. Right now it has no problem blasting through 1/2" saw blades. I am having problems with the jaws being very dirty and grimey. Some one parked it under a bench grinder for years. I woud like to take them apart to clean but they must come apart from the back and the screws have no slots on the front.  Manual says 6000 amps.I would like to make custom jaws making it a rod and bar welder.


 What?


----------



## mcostello

What what?


----------



## Gaffer

I think it was a comment to the 6000 amps from the manual, with the appropriate emoji you posted. 


mcostello said:


> What what?



.


----------



## finsruskw

Snagged off FB over the weekend and picked it up yesterday.
98-12 w/case.
Don't know what's up with the yeller paint, hope I can get it off without wrecking the wrinkle finish.
I'm a happy camper!!


----------



## thechickencow

About a week ago I found a free 12x36 import metal lathe on Craigslist about two hours away from where I live. Somehow, I was the first to respond and I got it! The only things wrong with it is the tailstock quill is missing, and oil is leaking from the headstock. Super excited to get it running!


----------



## brino

@thechickencow ,

I see that's your first post after just joining us a week ago.
Welcome to the group!

Hopefully with you being in Arizona, the lathe has little rust.
One rule around here is that "We like pictures!"
When you get a chance (and have met any post count requirements for posting photos), please favour us with a couple pics.
Also know that this group can likely answer any questions you have about the machine.

As part of that welcome, we have another tradition here.
Members that get a really good deal on a piece of equipment (the kind of deal many of us will wait our entire lives to *never* see!) receive a special "badge of honor".

Therefore you have earned the following coveted award:


You are now truly one of the group!

Brian


==================================
.....and just in case the humour doesn't come thru.....
this really is a tradition here, but it's just a friendly heckle from others that are more than just a little jealous of your bargain.


----------



## woodchucker

Gaffer said:


> I think it was a comment to the 6000 amps from the manual, with the appropriate emoji you posted.
> 
> 
> .


for me, it was what is he responding to. I had no idea what  @mcostello was responding to in:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/what-did-you-buy-today.55645/page-863#post-946369


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> for me, it was what is he responding to. I had no idea what  @mcostello was responding to in:
> https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/what-did-you-buy-today.55645/page-863#post-946369


Same here.  For anyone to understand what you are referring to, please reply to that particular post!  Or quote it.  A general post in the thread loses context.  A general post may show up 5-10 posts away, depending on thread activity, and people won't have any idea what you are talking about.


----------



## Gaffer

I’ve been looking for this book for about a year. It’s been on my watch list at Thriftbooks, where I bought Vol. 2 a year ago.


----------



## DavidR8

Gaffer said:


> I’ve been looking for this book for about a year. It’s been on my watch list at Thriftbooks, where I bought Vol. 2 a year ago.
> 
> View attachment 406365



Those are excellent. I have both volumes and have referenced them many times. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## woodchucker

not today, not last week, but the week before.
I finished my battery extender.  I wish I had some space for annodizing. Maybe sometime. Instead I painted the tube. It won't last, I didn't use an etching primer.

I found 2 orings today so that completes the build. I only have an imperial set, not a metric..  Found 2 that fit.
So I am going from 700ma to 5000ma... That should give me some time on higher settings. The low setting is useless outside, it's good for close up work on a machine.. But I use this when out with my dog.


----------



## JRaut

Anyone use these Gerardi / GS pull-down modular vises?

I'm used to Kurt-style vises, so these are a bit of a departure from that.

This GS vise came up near me for a price I couldn't avoid, so I pulled the trigger. Figure I'll give it a whirl; if I don't like it, I could probably sell it off pretty easily.

Jaws are 6" wide (same as my Kurt) and it opens to 8" (which is wider than my Kurt). Takes up a bit of a smaller footprint and eats up less Z space than the Kurt, so seems like it could be a winner.

Came with an extra set of super-tall jaws as well.


----------



## woodchucker

FYI WD40 
Went to home depot to get a lot of things. With gas costing so much we have been avoiding multiple trips to town... 12 miles each way to Flemington. Needed a gallon of WD40 ... *34.99 *.... WTH... last time it was 19.99. No freaking way...  I'll just use Koolmist more. Well, we weren't able to get everything we needed, and my son is having problem finding baby formula, so we were on a trek to Lowes, then BJ's, Walmart, CVS...
At *Lowes *the price was *24.48* for WD40...   Hope you can save some by shopping around.


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> FYI WD40
> Went to home depot to get a lot of things. With gas costing so much we have been avoiding multiple trips to town... 12 miles each way to Flemington. Needed a gallon of WD40 ... *34.99 *.... WTH... last time it was 19.99. No freaking way...  I'll just use Koolmist more. Well, we weren't able to get everything we needed, and my son is having problem finding baby formula, so we were on a trek to Lowes, then BJ's, Walmart, CVS...
> At *Lowes *the price was *24.48* for WD40...   Hope you can save some by shopping around.


----------



## woodchucker

IamNotImportant said:


> View attachment 406779


whoa not sure how to read that response.... a little scarry there.  Do you always keep heads in your shop... Jeffrey Dahmer kept them in his refrig...


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> whoa not sure how to read that response.... a little scarry there.  Do you always keep heads in your shop... Jeffrey Dahmer kept them in his refrig...


----------



## NCjeeper

JRaut said:


> Anyone use these Gerardi / GS pull-down modular vises?
> 
> I'm used to Kurt-style vises, so these are a bit of a departure from that.
> 
> This GS vise came up near me for a price I couldn't avoid, so I pulled the trigger. Figure I'll give it a whirl; if I don't like it, I could probably sell it off pretty easily.
> 
> Jaws are 6" wide (same as my Kurt) and it opens to 8" (which is wider than my Kurt). Takes up a bit of a smaller footprint and eats up less Z space than the Kurt, so seems like it could be a winner.
> 
> Came with an extra set of super-tall jaws as well.
> 
> View attachment 406716


My friend Doug (You Tube channel Metalworks machine shop) Just scored two of the vises for 75 bucks each. They came with the swivel bases also. They sure are the cats meow.


----------



## Papa Charlie

woodchucker said:


> FYI WD40
> Went to home depot to get a lot of things. With gas costing so much we have been avoiding multiple trips to town... 12 miles each way to Flemington. Needed a gallon of WD40 ... *34.99 *.... WTH... last time it was 19.99. No freaking way...  I'll just use Koolmist more. Well, we weren't able to get everything we needed, and my son is having problem finding baby formula, so we were on a trek to Lowes, then BJ's, Walmart, CVS...
> At *Lowes *the price was *24.48* for WD40...   Hope you can save some by shopping around.


Lowes price, is better than HF by $4.00. Good to know.


----------



## woodchucker

Papa Charlie said:


> Lowes price, is better than HF by $4.00. Good to know.


By $10 not 4.  
edit: sorry you are saying HF... I read it as HD...
$10 better than Home Depot... I guess 4 better than HF.. just checked HF... yep you are right.


----------



## JRaut

NCjeeper said:


> My friend Doug (You Tube channel Metalworks machine shop) Just scored two of the vises for 75 bucks each. They came with the swivel bases also. They sure are the cats meow.


Well I paid a bit more than $75 for mine.

But seems like a keeper at first blush. I'm sick pounding the crap out of my parts with a dead-blow on my Kurt vise to get them to sit firmly on the parallels.


----------



## wachuko

I was waiting until I needed to get a few more items before ordering these...

Now I need to drill the correct hole size for the different TIG rods... If you guys recall, this was for a Tungsten Grinder using a Dremel and some tungsten diamond grinder wheels...





From this video:


----------



## Aaron_W

wachuko said:


> I was waiting until I needed to get a few more items before ordering these...
> 
> Now I need to drill the correct hole size for the different TIG rods... If you guys recall, this was for a Tungsten Grinder using a Dremel and some tungsten diamond grinder wheels...
> 
> View attachment 406810
> 
> 
> 
> From this video:



That is a nice set up with the bench mount and attachment for a shopvac. 

My TIG skills are puny so I just got one of those Eastwood grinders when they went on sale last year. I think I got it for $79 but it might have been $99 either way hard to beat at that price.


----------



## Daphharr

Well hopefully this will be a time saver saver for the small space.  Going to hook it up this weekend.


----------



## Gaffer

Aaron_W said:


> That is a nice set up with the bench mount and attachment for a shopvac.
> 
> My TIG skills are puny so I just got one of those Eastwood grinders when they went on sale last year. I think I got it for $79 but it might have been $99 either way hard to beat at that price.


I took advantage of that sale too. It's easy to use and works great.


----------



## Gaffer

Daphharr said:


> Well hopefully this will be a time saver saver for the small space.  Going to hook it up this weekend.


I couldn't open the attachment, and am not familiar with the file extension. Recommendation?


----------



## Daphharr

Gaffer said:


> I couldn't open the attachment, and am not familiar with the file extension. Recommendation?


I can't open it as well. Let me see if i can upload it in a usable format.  sorry!


----------



## Daphharr




----------



## wachuko

Gaffer said:


> I took advantage of that sale too. It's easy to use and works great.





Aaron_W said:


> That is a nice set up with the bench mount and attachment for a shopvac.
> 
> My TIG skills are puny so I just got one of those Eastwood grinders when they went on sale last year. I think I got it for $79 but it might have been $99 either way hard to beat at that price.






Less than 100.00 for that... that would have been a no-brainer...   Oh well... it is 125.00 now.

Keep in mind... all my TIG equipment is still new in its box...


----------



## Christianstark

wachuko said:


> View attachment 406831
> 
> 
> Less than 100.00 for that... that would have been a no-brainer...   Oh well... it is 125.00 now.
> 
> Keep in mind... all my TIG equipment is still new in its box...


I got the Primeweld 220 AC/DC recently. Just learning now.


----------



## Aaron_W

wachuko said:


> View attachment 406831
> 
> 
> Less than 100.00 for that... that would have been a no-brainer...   Oh well... it is 125.00 now.
> 
> Keep in mind... all my TIG equipment is still new in its box...



Mine is set up but it hasn't had much use yet. Most of my welding projects so far have been better suited to MIG and although not great, I'm a lot less bad at MIG.   

TIG is pretty awesome though, I was taking a TIG class in 2020 until everything shut down. Definitely a nice option to have.


----------



## DLF

The new lathe arrived.

14x40" china machine, but good quality and from a reputable dealer
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## woodchucker

DLF said:


> The new lathe arrived.
> 
> 14x40" china machine, but good quality and from a reputable dealer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk


*Good luck,* it looks big compared to the garage door. Save that wood, it will be useful for something.
send us some pics after you get it set up and make your first chips.


----------



## Doug Gray

Looks great! 1440 is a very versatile size not to big not to small. I wish my stand had drawers like that, mine has two doors.


----------



## DLF

Looks bigger in the picture then in reality.

But it is the biggest I could afford price- and size-wise.

Now I just need to figure how to drop it from the pallet

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Firstram

Start by not using the word "drop"!!!!!


----------



## macklong

I just picked up an older 8" Baldor bench grinder for my belt grinder project.


----------



## Christianstark

So yesterday after a 45 Chamfer tool caused enough vibrations to cause the small gib locking mechanism to give (slip downwards) under the weight of my head, and mar up my once pristine Kurt vise jaw, I quickly ordered a remedy. When I want to lock my gib...I WANT TO LOCK MY GIB.

Out with the old...



And IN with the new! I think double the handle length = 4X mechanical advantage, but I may be remembering physics wrong.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Christianstark said:


> So yesterday after a 45 Chamfer tool caused enough vibrations to cause the small gib locking mechanism to give (slip downwards) under the weight of my head, and mar up my once pristine Kurt vise jaw, I quickly ordered a remedy. When I want to lock my gib...I WANT TO LOCK MY GIB.
> 
> Out with the old...
> View attachment 406905
> 
> 
> And IN with the new! I think double the handle length = 4X mechanical advantage, but I may be remembering physics wrong.
> View attachment 406906
> 
> View attachment 406907
> View attachment 406908


Well if those won't hold it then you have more problems than that. Should work.


----------



## Martinez

Picked this up yesterday. Not for me unfortunately but for a friend. It’s a Churchill, quite old but with impressive reputation and lots of ability. Came with several chucks, fixed steady, 12 inch faceplate, collet chuck (3c or 5c not sure) and 2 motors. Plus got knows how many other bits n pieces. Although dirty and some surface rust it looks to be in reasonable condition. Power cross feed and taper turning attachment as standard I believe. All for £400. Guy also had a milling machine and a Boxford shaper. But I think the lathe was the best buy. 
Anyone out there have experience or knowledge of these machines ? A manual would be useful he he


----------



## Christianstark

Martinez said:


> Picked this up yesterday. Not for me unfortunately but for a friend. It’s a Churchill, quite old but with impressive reputation and lots of ability. Came with several chucks, fixed steady, 12 inch faceplate, collet chuck (3c or 5c not sure) and 2 motors. Plus got knows how many other bits n pieces. Although dirty and some surface rust it looks to be in reasonable condition. Power cross feed and taper turning attachment as standard I believe. All for £400. Guy also had a milling machine and a Boxford shaper. But I think the lathe was the best buy.
> Anyone out there have experience or knowledge of these machines ? A manual would be useful he he



That looks like it would be a blast to restore!


----------



## DavidR8

Picked up this import .0001 mic. I have a fantastic digital Starrett mic of the same precision but wanted a vernier to go with it. 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DAM 79

Yesterday I got off work at a decent time so I stopped over to Norman Machine tool in Baltimore and picked this chuck. I talked to the owner he was super great guy and I will be back for a few more things that caught my eye


----------



## Jim F

Bought a Kennedy roller tonight.
I will get it Fathers day weekend.
Looks rough,but fixable....
$75 , maybe well spent.........


----------



## snoopdog

Found this at the flea market a few days ago


----------



## JRaut

snoopdog said:


> Found this at the flea market a few days ago


Maybe to measure the web thickness of a I-beam or something?


----------



## Winegrower

After moving 5 or 6 lathes, a few Bridgeports, two big metal bandsaws, a surface grinder, a 9x16 horizontal saw, etc. I finally realized I need some machine skates.   Maybe it's too late, I'm through moving stuff, but that's what I always thought before.   I bought 2 of these, my friend bought 2 more, so we're equipped.   These are rated 6 tons each, and indeed look very stout...for about $45 each, they are a pretty good eBay deal.

That is a real ball bearing swivel pad, with 4 hard urethane wheels that span the whole width of the skate, or "tank truck" as the manufacturer calls it.

The instructions are a hoot.   Here's a sentence, absolutely verbatim:  "The use of lifting or lifting equipment will increase the number of objects needed to be transported ( ensure that the small tanks can be smoothly put inThe lower space so far, the carrying of the small tanks according to the intended scheme."

Seems clear enough.


----------



## FOMOGO

I have four of those. They have come in very handy. Mike


----------



## snoopdog

JRaut said:


> Maybe to measure the web thickness of a I-beam or something?


Definitely a thickness guage, don't think enough clearance for the Ibeams that I work with


----------



## DavidR8

Being married to an English professor means I get cool book gifts. 
This arrived today. Basically the first DIY how-to book written circa 1703.







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Aukai

I have got to find a safe way to get around in the garage, so I got this one today.


----------



## AGCB97

Seeing that picture made me think of a mobility scooter for the shop. All motorized.  A new project idea, although I don't need one.
Aaron


----------



## Aukai




----------



## BGHansen

Aukai said:


>


Hope you have a speedy recovery.  Reminds me of my broken ankle playing basketball 35 years ago.  I took my mobility for granted,  then ended up on crutches with both hands tied up. Really hard to take a barley soda in the evening from the frig to the couch. I got pretty good at hopping on one leg.

Bruce


----------



## brino

@Aukai 

Yep that'll slow you down.....
I am hoping for a quick (and full!) recovery for you.
Brian


----------



## wachuko

Aukai said:


>





Aukai said:


> I have got to find a safe way to get around in the garage, so I got this one today.
> View attachment 407252


So that chair was responsible for the accident?


----------



## Aukai

My father was responsible for this, flat feet....3 more weeks of non weight bearing, then rehab.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

is my memory funky or did you do a "what did you buy today" post that included X number of titanium pins?


----------



## Aukai

That would be me....


----------



## Papa Charlie

Haven't received it yet and not exactly a metal working tool. This is a case checker for measuring the bump back on the shoulder of a case for my competition reloading. So since the cases are metal and I am working them, I guess it is metal working of a sort.

It is very difficult to measure a bump of 0.001" on the shoulder of a case. These are suppose to be pretty good and more importantly consistent, which is the name of the game. Once I get it, I will still have to fine tune it with my chamber reamer so that it matches exactly. But that is an easy final step.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Papa Charlie said:


> Haven't received it yet and not exactly a metal working tool. This is a case checker for measuring the bump back on the shoulder of a case for my competition reloading. So since the cases are metal and I am working them, I guess it is metal working of a sort.
> 
> It is very difficult to measure a bump of 0.001" on the shoulder of a case. These are suppose to be pretty good and more importantly consistent, which is the name of the game. Once I get it, I will still have to fine tune it with my chamber reamer so that it matches exactly. But that is an easy final step.
> 
> View attachment 407373


i use something similar to that to measure my 22lr ammo


----------



## Papa Charlie

IamNotImportant said:


> i use something similar to that to measure my 22lr ammo


There are a few different tools manufactured to measure this. I have tried a few and to be honest, found them to be difficult to get consistent readings. Saw F-Class John on YouTube demonstrate this one and it seemed to be pretty good. John is a National competitor in F-Class Open and I have found him to give pretty good reviews on products. So figured I would give it a try.

We will see.


----------



## Daphharr

Aukai said:


> I have got to find a safe way to get around in the garage, so I got this one today.
> View attachment 407252


Was this chair worth the cost? This thing has been poping up everywhere in my feeds.  I am starting to drink the Kool-Aid.


----------



## Aukai

I's not here yet, and the price caused me pause, but I'll be a gimp for several months, and it's worth it to me to get out in the shop. Adam Savage has a YT bit on a medical chair he likes. My wooden bar stool was not comfortable, and I have to pull it around to move it into position.


----------



## Gaffer

Daphharr said:


> Was this chair worth the cost? This thing has been poping up everywhere in my feeds.  I am starting to drink the Kool-Aid.


If I recall correctly, @BladesIIB bought one a while back and loves it. He may have done a video or write-up about it.


----------



## woodchucker

Janderso said:


> We just found out he’s having some health issues.
> Bob, if you are read this, please know you are in my thoughts!


Anyone know how Bob Korves is doing?


----------



## davidpbest

Suncoast Tools 3/4” 3-flute Euro style carbide countersinks in 82 and 90 degrees.  Made in USA, about $60 with shipping.


----------



## NCjeeper

^^^
Curious to see how you like them.


----------



## Daphharr

Aukai said:


> I's not here yet, and the price caused me pause, but I'll be a gimp for several months, and it's worth it to me to get out in the shop. Adam Savage has a YT bit on a medical chair he likes. My wooden bar stool was not comfortable, and I have to pull it around to move it into position.


I hope that the chair helps out and it gets to you soon! Shop stools seem to be an after thought.  I have three in the shop for me and the kids but none of them are stools you want to use.


----------



## FOMOGO

Got these on Amazon last year. Very comfortable, adjustable height, and I love the back support. Light weight, so easy to put where you need it, and stays put when you get it there. Mike


----------



## DavidR8

FOMOGO said:


> Got these on Amazon last year. Very comfortable, adjustable height, and I love the back support. Light weight, so easy to put where you need it, and stays put when you get it there. Mike
> 
> View attachment 407437
> View attachment 407438


Looks comfy! I can appreciate the solid base as my shop stool on casters can be a bit hard to pin down...


----------



## Papa Charlie

Aukai said:


> I have got to find a safe way to get around in the garage, so I got this one today.
> View attachment 407252


Nice chairs, some good reviews on YouTube. Pricey chair, but made in the USA and if it is as well built as they claim, it will out last two or three of the cheaper ones. Did you buy the 24" or the 33" high chair?


----------



## NCjeeper

Pulled the trigger on a new 12" chuck for my Jet lathe. The one on there now is slap wore out. I got this one at a screaming deal. It is new, but got some rust on it some how. The seller marked it half off plus free shipping.


----------



## Papa Charlie

FOMOGO said:


> Got these on Amazon last year. Very comfortable, adjustable height, and I love the back support. Light weight, so easy to put where you need it, and stays put when you get it there. Mike
> 
> View attachment 407437
> View attachment 407438


I had a chair that had a similar base that I use to use for long runs on the lathe. Reach out for the mic one time and went over in it. Not really the chairs fault as I reached to far as it was a pain to get the chair up to the lathe and get in it so I could watch the cuts.


----------



## Aukai

PC I got the 33", I may have to pull out my anti fatigue mat though, we'll see.
Mike I'm only on 1 strong foot, so I'm thinking I will need the wheels.


----------



## tq60

So my Dewalt 20 volt charger for work stuff drops dead.

Cannot do amazon so 25 dollar knock off no good so look up price of genuine.

Seems to be 98 bucks all over.

Go to grainger, same there.

Decide to just look at tools, they have a 1/2 drill, 2 batteries, charger and bag case, normally 270.00 on sale for 117.00, 126.77 out the door.

They had a pair of batteries on sale for 107...same as in this kit.

It seems for 10 bucks you get charger, drill and case

I get out to truck....do not need one as I have a V18 but batteries are a pain...but, it is cheap.

So went back in and got one for me.

In discussing it with the counter guy a couple other folks heard us, a few went out the door...

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


----------



## jpackard56

Arrived today, super packaging, fits great ! Originally saw Jpar post on this and didn't pay attention because apparently it came with a South Bend that he picked up. I don't currently have a South Bend so moved on.
Huh, on a slow day I'm re-reading and wow its the dimension I've been looking for to fit my old Seneca Falls. 
Thanks again John !


----------



## Magnett

Aukai said:


>


Oops!  Here's hoping for a quick heal (no pun intended.)


----------



## matthewsx

Aukai said:


>



I had a giant cell tumor removed from my tibia in 2007, think it was 4 months non weight bearing. Really gives you an appreciation for handicapped parking spaces and electric carts at the grocery store.

Best wishes for a full and speedy recovery, and ingenious adaptations for the shop....

John


----------



## matthewsx

I have a “thing” for mid-century industrial furniture. This is just one of the stools I own.


----------



## matthewsx

Here’s something I actually bought today, needed a small tap handle and decided to order one from McMaster. Time will tell if it’s three times as good as the Chinese one they sell but for $18 bucks why not support the little guy….


----------



## 682bear

I did some 'acquiring' this week...

E-bay purchase... ½" carbide boring bar...




Then yesterday I drove over to @tjb 's house and picked up an Arter carbide grinder...




It needs a little tlc...

Then last night at work,  co-worker brought me a couple of items. First is a 6"x6" sine plate...







And a rusty sine vise...







I've disassembled the vise and have it soaking in evaporust. We'll see how well it cleans up.

-Bear


----------



## Doug Gray

matthewsx said:


> Here’s something I actually bought today, needed a small tap handle and decided to order one from McMaster. Time will tell if it’s three times as good as the Chinese one they sell but for $18 bucks why not support the little guy….
> 
> View attachment 407505


I have the "guided" version of this and it has been awesome for many years, love the tool. The spring that separates the jaws went at one point had to take apart a clicky pen and steal the spring from that. You won't be disappointed with this wrench.


----------



## woodchucker

682bear said:


> I did some 'acquiring' this week...
> 
> E-bay purchase... ½" carbide boring bar...
> 
> View attachment 407517
> 
> 
> Then yesterday I drove over to @tjb 's house and picked up an Arter carbide grinder...
> 
> View attachment 407518
> 
> 
> It needs a little tlc...
> 
> Then last night at work,  co-worker brought me a couple of items. First is a 6"x6" sine plate...
> 
> View attachment 407519
> 
> 
> View attachment 407520
> 
> 
> And a rusty sine vise...
> 
> View attachment 407521
> 
> 
> View attachment 407522
> 
> 
> I've disassembled the vise and have it soaking in evaporust. We'll see how well it cleans up.
> 
> -Bear


I hope those come out nice. I think you may have to deck off the top of the sine plate, you can't really touch the measuring area. So I am hoping evapo rust and a little hand work does it for you.  That would be a nice score... Along with the other items that you got.


----------



## FOMOGO

Nice. Glad to see you got that tool grinder. Thought you might, being in the neighborhood and all. Bet it will look like a million bucks when you're done with it.


----------



## BladesIIB

Gaffer said:


> If I recall correctly, @BladesIIB bought one a while back and loves it. He may have done a video or write-up about it.


Yes I did a video on mine and still love it.  @Aukai also followed up with me about it.  Thanks for the mention @Gaffer


----------



## MikeInOr

$40



Craftsman 6 x 48" belt sander.





























The pulley on the motor is bent (Just the pulley, I do not believe the shaft is bent) so the motor bucks up and down like a bronco when the motor is turned on.  Seller didn't have any belts so I don't know how well it tracks.  I will have to craft some kind of table for it.  The original tables are on a rod that slip into a hole in the body of the sander.  I don't know if I will try to replicate this arrangement or mount a new table to the sander body or the stand..  I have a Walker Turner 4 x 52.5" horizontal belt sander so I would like to run this one in a vertical orientation in which a table will be a must.



My father brought this Delta sander home from work about 40 years ago.  I took it apart, stripped it, painted it, replaced the bearings and reassembled it by myself (I was about 12yo at the time).  I have always wanted a vertical belt sander for wood working to go with it.  The Delta is fine for both metal and wood but mixing both on the same sander is pretty messy.  I believe the Craftsman will be put on the woodworking side of the shop and dedicated to woodworking in a vertical orientation and the Delta will stay on the metal working side of the shop... But things like this have a habit of changing after everything sorts itself out.

P.S. Well the table problem is solved:










$81 with delivery from ebay.  Sander for $40, table for $81... I guess that is the way it goes some times.  If I get it running smoothly I am still very happy with the price!


----------



## ThorHansen

Last item purchased was some leaded gunmetal for making a steam cylinder


----------



## 682bear

682bear said:


> ...last night at work,  co-worker brought me a couple of items. First is a 6"x6" sine plate...
> 
> View attachment 407519
> 
> 
> View attachment 407520
> 
> 
> And a rusty sine vise...
> 
> View attachment 407521
> 
> 
> View attachment 407522
> 
> 
> I've disassembled the vise and have it soaking in evaporust. We'll see how well it cleans up.
> 
> -Bear




I've finished cleaning up the vise and sine plate...













They cleaned up pretty good... they will be handy to have.

-Bear


----------



## Eyerelief

They look great Bear, I'd say you are good to go!


----------



## tjb

Lookin' good, Bear.


----------



## wachuko

682bear said:


> I've finished cleaning up the vise and sine plate...
> 
> View attachment 407743
> 
> 
> View attachment 407744
> 
> 
> View attachment 407745
> 
> 
> View attachment 407746
> 
> 
> They cleaned up pretty good... they will be handy to have.
> 
> -Bear


Looking great!  I have been looking for similar ones...  Those are quite expensive even used...


----------



## wachuko

Making a floating lock drill press vise like the one Mr. Pete made... Ordered all the materias that I am missing...

1" x 1-1/4" x 11-1/2"-Long A-36 Hot Rolled Steel Flat Bar
1045 Precision Shaft Steel Round Bar 1/2" Dia x 12"-Long
2' Threaded rod 1/2"-13 Thread Size
1' 12L14 Carbon Steel Rod 5/8" Diameter
1/2"  Hot Rolled Steel Sheet Plate 4"X 12" Flat Bar A36
3/16" Hot Rolled Steel Sheet Plate 4"X 12" Flat Bar A36


----------



## FOMOGO

Blondie Hacks just made a video on making one. Mike


----------



## FOMOGO

Looks good. Has the nice shop used patina. Mike



682bear said:


> They cleaned up pretty good... they will be handy to have.
> 
> -Bear


----------



## Aaron_W

Visited my local metal supplier yesterday to take a look at the drop racks. Came home with about 32 feet of 1-1/2", 1/8" wall square tubing in lengths of 2-6 feet, and about 10" of 2-3/4" round mystery stainless (it is kind of rusty so hoping its 303, 416 or another of the less stainless but more easily machined varieties). Paid $81 for all, checking prices for new, 32 feet of tubing would have cost over $200 and a foot of 2-3/4" stainless round bar about the same. 

I need to make a stand for my Atlas shaper and this tubing should do nicely. Anyone know any tricks for figuring out what flavor the mystery stainless is?


----------



## Steve-F

400 series is magnetic, 300 series is not.


----------



## extropic

Aaron_W said:


> Visited my local metal supplier yesterday to take a look at the drop racks. Came home with about 32 feet of 1-1/2", 1/8" wall square tubing in lengths of 2-6 feet, and about 10" of 2-3/4" round mystery stainless (it is kind of rusty so hoping its 303, 416 or another of the less stainless but more easily machined varieties). Paid $81 for all, checking prices for new, 32 feet of tubing would have cost over $200 and a foot of 2-3/4" stainless round bar about the same.
> 
> I need to make a stand for my Atlas shaper and this tubing should do nicely. *Anyone know any tricks for figuring out what flavor the mystery stainless is?*



If it's a 300 series alloy, it may not hold a magnet at all. If it's more than very slightly magnetic, it's probably not a 300 series alloy.

@Steve-F is quicker on the draw.


----------



## mmcmdl

300 series is non-magnetic as stated above because it contains no iron , thus it can't be hardened . 400 series and alloys containing iron are magnetic . Pretty simple .


----------



## FOMOGO

If it's rusty it will be 400 series. Mike


----------



## woodchucker

I picked up a Lufkin wiggler  2weeks ago. It got lost after he packed it, it fell behind some boxes. I finally got it today..
It's much different working than the NORK I have. But for the NORK I only have the indicator holder. The lufkin tightens from the back end like a draw bar but pushes out, the nork is like a normal collet in a dremel. Turns out that the tips fit the NORK too, so I can have 2 different wigglers loaded and ready to go.  After playing with it for a few minutes, I like it better than the edge finder. Much easier to get a reading. I am sure I will see the down sides once I start using it.  I like the little 0.100 tip. I can use it inside small holes. Before putting a test indicator in the hole or a gauge pin in and indicate it.


----------



## Aaron_W

It is magnetic so then some type of 400 series which from my understanding tends to be easier to machine than most 300s. No plans for it just now but it was a nice size and at $1/lb not a huge risk if it just becomes a door stop.


----------



## Badabinski

Aaron_W said:


> It is magnetic so then some type of 400 series which from my understanding tends to be easier to machine than most 300s. No plans for it just now but it was a nice size and at $1/lb not a huge risk if it just becomes a door stop.
> 
> View attachment 407902


Sometimes you just need a Big Heavy Thing, and now you have one!


----------



## bukwirm

mmcmdl said:


> 300 series is non-magnetic as stated above because it contains no iron , thus it can't be hardened . 400 series and alloys containing iron are magnetic . Pretty simple .


300-series stainless steels definitely contain iron. For example, 316SS is <0.7% C, 17.5% Cr, 2.2% Mo, 11.5% Ni, and the remaining ~65% is iron, although it is common for composition charts to omit the iron (since steels are primary iron by definition). They are not magnetic or hardenable by heat-treating due to their face-centered cubic (austenitic) crystal structure.

400-series stainless steels are magnetic since they have a different crystal structure (body-centered cubic).


----------



## matthewsx

I thought all steel contains Iron. 

Nickel isn't magnetic and from what I've read it's the main alloying element for stainless steel. 

I'm ready to be wrong but metallurgy is a science after all, isn't it....

John


----------



## erikmannie

I bought this USA made 5/8” strap clamp kit. Amazon had a great price compared to everyone else:



			https://www.amazon.com/TE-CO-20402-Machinist-T-Slot-Pieces/dp/B09J6FBKFY


----------



## IamNotImportant

erikmannie said:


> I bought this USA made 5/8” strap clamp kit. Amazon had a great price compared to everyone else:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/TE-CO-20402-Machinist-T-Slot-Pieces/dp/B09J6FBKFY
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 407953


What's the difference between that one you have ordered and this one, other than the price? 


			https://www.amazon.com/TE-CO-20402PL-Machinist-T-Slot-Pieces/dp/B003HGGS64/ref=sr_1_1?crid=23Z087HVLG7FR&keywords=Machinist+Clamp+Kit%2C&qid=1653561380&s=industrial&sprefix=machinist+clamp+kit%2C%2Cindustrial%2C102&sr=1-1


----------



## jwmelvin

IamNotImportant said:


> What's the difference between that one you have ordered and this one, other than the price?
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/TE-CO-20402PL-Machinist-T-Slot-Pieces/dp/B003HGGS64/ref=sr_1_1?crid=23Z087HVLG7FR&keywords=Machinist+Clamp+Kit%2C&qid=1653561380&s=industrial&sprefix=machinist+clamp+kit%2C%2Cindustrial%2C102&sr=1-1



Appears to be plastic vs metal case (see the PL at the end of the pet part number)


----------



## Firstram

jwmelvin said:


> Appears to be plastic vs metal case (see the PL at the end of the pet number)


I have 2 plastic and 1 metal, they work the same!


----------



## Eyerelief

Supposedly the two differences are a metal vs plastic organizer and a better grade of material on the steps.


----------



## IamNotImportant

ten four.. if they work the same.. i would be all in for saving a 100 bucks to be able to buy something else


----------



## woodchucker

in a heavy use environment the plastic will break. so the metal is worth a little more. Not twice more.  I would rather buy 2 sets than pay 100 for the metal holder.

edit: BTW notice that if you buy one its 204, but if you buy 2 its 487... REALLY WTF... what kind of math is that. 3 is 881.
it's 408 for 2 if you buy the 2 separate
its 612 if you buy 3 separate..

Something wrong there.


----------



## Eyerelief

woodchucker said:


> in a heavy use environment the plastic will break. so the metal is worth a little more. Not twice more.  I would rather buy 2 sets than pay 100 for the metal holder.


I bought the plastic version and hung it on the wall.  I noticed after about 6 months that the plastic was distorting a little so I added a tiny shelf under it to support the weight.  Now the keyholes only keep it against the wall, the shelf carries the load.  I guess it could still fail, but I'd have to work at it.


----------



## woodchucker

I didn't buy, but you might. This is something I might want except for the price. I regularly take clamps and reverse them to do this, except mine never come close to the 1/8 or 1/4 inch foot print.. These are very valuable. And I can see these being used on a mill to do setup, just making it easier, then setting jacks in or NOT.
This is an FYI for those that might find a need. Too rich right now for me.



			https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/workshop/carrying-and-moving/114620-pair-of-viking-arm-assembly-jacks?item=03K1830&utm_campaign=205995_MAY26-epromo-VikingArmsAssembly-US&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Lee+Valley&dm_i=6EER%2C4EY3%2C12SGQT%2CL9LD%2C1


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> in a heavy use environment the plastic will break. so the metal is worth a little more. Not twice more.  I would rather buy 2 sets than pay 100 for the metal holder.
> 
> edit: BTW notice that if you buy one its 204, but if you buy 2 its 487... REALLY WTF... what kind of math is that. 3 is 881.
> it's 408 for 2 if you buy the 2 separate
> its 612 if you buy 3 separate..
> 
> Something wrong there.






time to learn the new math!


----------



## Aaron_W

Eyerelief said:


> Supposedly the two differences are a metal vs plastic organizer and a better grade of material on the steps.



Yes beside the plastic case the clamps are made from a different grade of steel. According to the Travers site 20402 is made from 1541, 20402PL is made from 1018.


----------



## woodchucker

Aaron_W said:


> Yes beside the plastic case the clamps are made from a different grade of steel. According to the Travers site 20402 is made from 1541, 20402PL is made from 1018.


From what I saw 20402 is 1018, pl is ???


----------



## Aaron_W

woodchucker said:


> From what I saw 20402 is 1018, pl is ???



Amazon shows both sets as 1018, as I mentioned in my post Travers shows 20402 as 1541 and 20402PL as 1018. Odd thing Te-Co does not even list a 20204PL set on their site...

I checked several other sellers and most make no mention of material. It seems very unlikely to me that the only difference accounting for more than a $100 difference is simply a plastic vs sheet metal organizer.


----------



## WobblyHand

Finally got off my duff and ordered a 4Nm NEMA24 closed loop stepper, controller and power supply for my electronic lead screw project.  Decided I wasn't going to wait for the TI launchpad board to get back in stock.  Besides, just didn't care for Clough42's interface.  So rolling my own software using a Teensy 4.1.  The Teensy has more than enough HP to do the job.  Have made some good progress, documented in the Projects forum.  Hope to receive the stepper kit in a week.


----------



## woodchucker

Why a stepper and not a servo? I realize you said it's closed loop, so it knows when it lost a step, but curious about the choice? 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## WobblyHand

Stepper is simpler.  A servo would be a fine choice, but I don't want to deal with control theory.  The goal is an electronic lead screw that just works.  Maybe later I'll dive into the servo pool if this isn't good enough.  Already stretching my talents.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Picked this up today.. very fair price i might add


----------



## IamNotImportant

The tool post and holders.. esp the holders will need some cleaning up.. could use a few more holders..


----------



## IamNotImportant

IamNotImportant said:


> Picked this up today.. very fair price i might add
> 
> View attachment 408029
> View attachment 408030
> View attachment 408031


after seeing what these go for, i feel like was made into a bandit..


----------



## mattthemuppet2

IamNotImportant said:


> The tool post and holders.. esp the holders will need some cleaning up.. could use a few more holders..


even with 20+ holders I still don't have enough holders...


----------



## woodchucker

mattthemuppet2 said:


> even with 20+ holders I still don't have enough holders...


There's only one person who has enough holders, I forget who it was, but he was on here, I think his name was Bob, and he professed to having like 200 holders.. And a picture he posted backed up his claim.


----------



## Firstram

woodchucker said:


> There's only one person who has enough holders, I forget who it was, but he was on here, I think his name was Bob, and he professed to having like 200 holders.. And a picture he posted backed up his claim.


If he is anything like me, he kept buying more because he couldn't remember where he set them down!


----------



## francist

Could it be this guy…









						How do your store your QCTP Toolholder's?
					

Looking for ideas, I have about 10 AXA toolholders now sitting on a shelf, I am moving my lathe top add a DRO and to make room for a Bridgeport mill I bought, I am also finishing the walls in my workshop...so everything is on dis-array now. When I get it all back together I want to store the...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## erikmannie

Kurt 8” parallel set:









						Kurt Parallel Set, 8" - 8PS9
					

8" Parallel Set | 8PS9 | Vise Accessories




					www.kurtworkholding.com
				




Free shipping, wow!

EDIT: After I bought these, I noticed in the product description that it says “Imported”. I am going to find out where they are imported from.


----------



## wachuko

erikmannie said:


> Kurt 8” parallel set:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kurt Parallel Set, 8" - 8PS9
> 
> 
> 8" Parallel Set | 8PS9 | Vise Accessories
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.kurtworkholding.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Free shipping, wow!


US$211.00!!  Wow!


----------



## Aukai

Fireball magnetic shim kit








						Magnetic Shim Kit (28pc)
					

High Quality Welding/Fabrication Squares & Tools




					fireballtool.com


----------



## Brento

Getting this delivered to my house next week for 600$ from a good acquaintance of mine. He had no more use for it and ive always wanted to have the trio of machines in my shop


----------



## Brento

Aukai said:


> Fireball magnetic shim kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Magnetic Shim Kit (28pc)
> 
> 
> High Quality Welding/Fabrication Squares & Tools
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fireballtool.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 408092


Ive looked into them. I may make them now that i am getting the grinder. It is a neat idea


----------



## woodchucker

Brento said:


> Getting this delivered to my house next week for 600$ from a good acquaintance of mine. He had no more use for it and ive always wanted to have the trio of machines in my shop


----------



## 7milesup

Picked this little thing up yesterday.


----------



## John O

Another Gravely, 72" cut 22 hp Yanmar engine. Now I need to move so I can cut grass for more than 3 minutes.


----------



## Daphharr

John O said:


> Another Gravely, 72" cut 22 hp Yanmar engine. Now I need to move so I can cut grass for more than 3 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 408121


Are you going to put a camping chair on it!  We have an old scag that the wife painted and has duct tape all around the beat to death chair.  I will post a pick.


----------



## Daphharr

Daphharr said:


> Are you going to put a camping chair on it!  We have an old scag that the wife painted and has duct tape all around the beat to death chair.  I will post a pick.


----------



## John O

Daphharr said:


> Are you going to put a camping chair on it!  We have an old scag that the wife painted and has duct tape all around the beat to death chair.  I will post a pick.


Looking for a seat with beer holder, its a 2 beer lawn


----------



## IamNotImportant

John O said:


> Looking for a seat with beer holder, its a 2 beer lawn





			https://www.amazon.com/EZ-DRINKER-Beer-Guzzler-Helmet/dp/B006CUJXMI


----------



## NCjeeper

I bought 900 dollars in electrical supplies   . And I still need more stuff but they were out. Trying to wire up my second 200 amp panel in my shop.


----------



## woodchucker

Picked up one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/202017492741
just got it.. Wow, no instructions, no parts list.  So I go back look online at the pics.. missing a key... no problem there. Also no description anywhere for where the springs go... I'm clueless.  It was a wen ding, now its a vevor. I saw build something cool tested it out and said it was easier to install than the others he was testing because of the wavey spring. I guess the newest version eliminated that.  I'll have to play with the shims.. I'll also have to make a lot of pieces for this to fit on my 8520... including an extension shaft. I'll probably have to pin the extension shaft so I can get it apart, I'll probably use a tapered pin.. It appears I will lose a small amount of table throw maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch do to my optical reader being installed on that side.


----------



## Brento

Nice one @woodchucker id like to get a motor for the Y axis sometimes


----------



## woodchucker

Brento said:


> Nice one @woodchucker id like to get a motor for the Y axis sometimes


There's not a lot of travel for the Y, so I don't think I would. I use an old drill for the Knee, that I wish I could get a drive for, but it would require a lot of mods.. the 8520 is just not a BP... not even close.


----------



## Brento

Yea i get it. What did you use for a socket on the Z?


----------



## woodchucker

Brento said:


> Yea i get it. What did you use for a socket on the Z?


I made one. My first mill project. I used a allen key as a shaft so it works like all the other interchangeable 1/4" hex shafts.
edit: I made it out of AL.


----------



## Brento

Gotcha my Z is a square head but it would be nice to have power for it.


----------



## woodchucker

Brento said:


> Gotcha my Z is a square head but it would be nice to have power for it.


Brent, so is mine. I think you mis understood what I was saying.
Here's my tool..  The allen key is JB Weld glued in on a press fit hole.


----------



## Brento

Ok i see now. Yea i was confused when you were talking about the allen. I was still in my mind triling to figure out how you did the square lol


----------



## matthewsx

John O said:


> Another Gravely, 72" cut 22 hp Yanmar engine. Now I need to move so I can cut grass for more than 3 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 408121


Nice Corvair collection, my dad had a turbo Monza when I was a kid 

Those old Gravleys are fun too, some days I miss my small engine shop. Then I remember....

Much better hobby than a business.

John


----------



## erikmannie

I replaced my *well used* Series 20 TIG torch. I had burned it up because I was welding not having realized that the water cooler had become unplugged. This is an expensive mistake to make.

I bought this from Jody Collier of Welding Tips and Tricks YouTube & podcast fame. Another vendor had it for free shipping, but I gave Jody my business because he has probably taught me more about welding than everybody else put together.

CK Worldwide has good products!









						CK Worldwide TIG Torch #20 - 2 Series (Water Cooled) (CK20-25SF FX) w/ 25' Super Flex HoseUSA (ships to you from CK)
					

Featuring extra-long 25-foot Super Flex hoses, this ergonomic flex-head TIG torch from CK Worldwide is a gamechanger for hard-to-reach welding spots. Shop now!




					weldmongerstore.com
				







The mechanic from my work is coming over in a few weeks, & we are going to make some mild steel parts for his epic car project. Sometimes I work for free! I would be very embarrassed for somebody to come over, and have to tell them that I don’t have a TIG torch!


----------



## erikmannie

Right after I posted this, I realized that I forgot the hose cover, so I bought the one below a few minutes later…from the same vendor…drop shipped from the same manufacturer.

So now I have made 2 separate orders from the same vendor and almost certainly spent more on shipping than I needed to. Live and learn. I am going to email Weldmonger and ask if he can make a shipping adjustment.









						*CK Worldwide Hose Cover_3-3/4" X 22' Leather Velcro - 225HCLV
					

CK Worldwide Hose Cover_3-3/4" X 22' Leather Velcro - 225HCLV (Ships to you from CK Worldwide) (For CK9/CK17/CK20)  • Abrasion resistant • Heat resistant • UV resistant • Oil resistant • Flame resistant CK Exclusive Leather Hook and Loop Hose covers work with all CK and other TIG torch...




					weldmongerstore.com
				




I definitely learned not to buy a zippered TIG hose cover. With the last one that I had, the zipper failed and I had to violently tear it apart to get it off.

EDIT: I just sent Weldmonger an email with the order numbers, politely asking for a shipping adjustment. Do you guys think that I will get an adjustment? I will let you know in this thread.


----------



## 682bear

erikmannie said:


> I bought this from Jody Collier of Welding Tips and Tricks YouTube & podcast fame. Another vendor had it for free shipping, but I gave Jody my business because he has probably taught me more about welding than everybody else put together.



Jody was a welding instructor for the company that I work for... I didn't know him, but would pass him in the hallway on my way out every morning.

When I started following weldingtipsandtricks.com and watching the videos, I recognized him... he had retired by then.

At one time I had volunteered to go through the welding school at work... I was passed over because my foreman felt that I was too valuable as a machinist. I was told that anyone taking the welding class would be locked into a minimum of 2 years welding full time.

-Bear


----------



## erikmannie

682bear said:


> Jody was a welding instructor for the company that I work for... I didn't know him, but would pass him in the hallway on my way out every morning.
> 
> When I started following weldingtipsandtricks.com and watching the videos, I recognized him... he had retired by then.
> 
> At one time I had volunteered to go through the welding school at work... I was passed over because my foreman felt that I was too valuable as a machinist. I was told that anyone taking the welding class would be locked into a minimum of 2 years welding full time.
> 
> -Bear


Was it Delta Airlines?


----------



## 682bear

Yes... I've been there 25 years next month...

-Bear


----------



## erikmannie

682bear said:


> Yes... I've been there 25 years next month...
> 
> -Bear


Congratulations on a fine career. Jody talks about Delta Airlines all the time on the Welding Tips and Tricks podcast.


----------



## 682bear

erikmannie said:


> Congratulations on a fine career. Jody talks about Delta Airlines all the time on the Welding Tips and Tricks podcast.



My dad used to say 'if you enjoy what you do, you'll never 'work' a day in your life'...

I love my job... it's like a 'paid hobby' to me!

-Bear


----------



## slodat

AB Tools 1.25” 2 flute Shear Hog in a YG1 tool holder. This is an impressive improvement over the single flute 1” I already had. Incredibly rigid tool thanks to the 1” shank, even at almost 5” of stuck out. 




Carvesmart jaws for a Kurt vise. I have the same jaw interface on the Orange vises and really like it.


----------



## erikmannie

Update on great Weldmonger customer service: they quickly refunded the $16.25 shipping charge for the second order.


----------



## IamNotImportant

No pics yet, but i found a Bridgeport Series I local that i am going to be picking up.. and also a Powermatic drill press

here is a vid of the model drill press i am going to get


----------



## slodat

IamNotImportant said:


> No pics yet, but i found a Bridgeport Series I local that i am going to be picking up.. and also a Powermatic drill press
> 
> here is a vid of the model drill press i am going to get


I have that same model Powermatic drill press. I don't have the power down feed. It's a great machine! I put a VFD on it so I could power from single phase. The Reeves drive is great! I don't use the VFD to change speed.


----------



## IamNotImportant

slodat said:


> I have that same model Powermatic drill press. I don't have the power down feed. It's a great machine! I put a VFD on it so I could power from single phase. The Reeves drive is great! I don't use the VFD to change speed.


Nice.. I am looking forward to having both machines..and i am doing same.. going with VFD's on the mill and the drill press


----------



## Firstram

IamNotImportant said:


> Nice.. I am looking forward to having both machines..and i am doing same.. going with VFD's on the mill and the drill press


I agree, I use my drill presses as much or more than the Bport!


----------



## 682bear

An ebay buy... a basketcase 4inch bullet...




It has a 1952 date, so was made in 1951.




It is in better condition than it looks. Mechanically, it operates smoothly with no play... but one jaw plate has been welded to the vise...




I'll have to see if I can fix that...

Another ebay buy... a swivel mount for a Wilton bullet vise...




This won't fit the vise I received today, but will fit my other Wilton bullet.

-Bear


----------



## WobblyHand

Received an imperial ER-40 collet set today.  Got these through PM.  Should be fine for my lathe.  They were a birthday present to myself.  This set is by 1/16", should cover a lot of my general use.  On a lark, I bought a 32mm ER-40 collet via eBay.  That's a skinny walled thing.  Don't have too much hope for low runout, it was more of a curiosity thing for me.  32mm is a wee bit bigger than 1-1/4".  Thought it might be useful in a pinch.


----------



## ahazi

7milesup said:


> Picked this little thing up yesterday.


Replacing the PM833?


----------



## IamNotImportant

ahazi said:


> Replacing the PM833?


yes he is.. going to sell i believe too


----------



## AGCB97

IamNotImportant said:


> Bridgeport Series I local that i am going to be picking up. and also, a Powermatic drill press


I also have both exactly like those each with VFDs. Great machines!
Aaron


----------



## IamNotImportant

AGCB97 said:


> I also have both exactly like those each with VFDs. Great machines!
> Aaron


Oh cool.. so then if i have any questions.. i can lean on you then?


----------



## AGCB97

You bet!

My Powermatic was actually a bench top model (part of a gang setup) 3 consecutive serial numbers. I converted it to a floor model.  see https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/powermatic-dp-install.78422/

Aaron


----------



## 7milesup

ahazi said:


> Replacing the PM833?


Yes.  I just posted it for sale.


----------



## 7milesup

682bear said:


> An ebay buy... a basketcase 4inch bullet...
> 
> View attachment 408210
> 
> 
> It has a 1952 date, so was made in 1951.
> 
> View attachment 408211
> 
> 
> It is in better condition than it looks. Mechanically, it operates smoothly with no play... but one jaw plate has been welded to the vise...
> 
> View attachment 408212
> 
> 
> I'll have to see if I can fix that...
> 
> Another ebay buy... a swivel mount for a Wilton bullet vise...
> 
> View attachment 408213
> 
> 
> This won't fit the vise I received today, but will fit my other Wilton bullet.
> 
> -Bear


I have two Wilton bullet vises in my shop.  One I use and the other I am in the process of restoring.   
The one you bought did not see too much love.


----------



## IamNotImportant

When i go to the local industrial salvage place, they usually have lots of copper plate.. some thick enough to make soft jaws with.. if i find some.. anyone interested in some?


----------



## Brento

Id be interested


----------



## IamNotImportant

Brento said:


> Id be interested


ok.. cool.. i will keep ya posted..


----------



## jwmelvin

IamNotImportant said:


> anyone interested in some?



I would likely, depending on how the price works out.


----------



## Eyerelief

I find myself more often than I thought, boring holes greater than 1”.  Found a 2”, 90* Severance 6 flute countersink on fleabay. It’s HSS, but came with a carbide 7/8” 45* 6 flute. Both for $50
	

		
			
		

		
	



They appear to be in good shape after cleanup. Most importantly, they don’t look like anyone sharpened them so the geometry should be correct.


----------



## wachuko

I bought this today, just now actually... I really do not know if I will ever use it... but it looked so cool...


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> I bought this today, just now actually... I really do not know if I will ever use it... but it looked so cool...
> 
> View attachment 408318


well it is certainly shorter than avg.. that much we can know!


----------



## Dhal22

IamNotImportant said:


> When i go to the local industrial salvage place, they usually have lots of copper plate.. some thick enough to make soft jaws with.. if i find some.. anyone interested in some?




I am.


----------



## matthewsx

IamNotImportant said:


> When i go to the local industrial salvage place, they usually have lots of copper plate.. some thick enough to make soft jaws with.. if i find some.. anyone interested in some?


Yes


----------



## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> When i go to the local industrial salvage place, they usually have lots of copper plate.. some thick enough to make soft jaws with.. if i find some.. anyone interested in some?


Me, me, me! Pick me!


----------



## IamNotImportant

if i have time tomorrow to run by there.. i will..


----------



## kvt

IamNotImportant said:


> When i go to the local industrial salvage place, they usually have lots of copper plate.. some thick enough to make soft jaws with.. if i find some.. anyone interested in some?


I'm in please


----------



## NCjeeper

wachuko said:


> I bought this today, just now actually... I really do not know if I will ever use it... but it looked so cool...
> 
> View attachment 408318


Perfect to use on your lathe tool post to set precise angles When you don’t have a reference piece to indicate off of.


----------



## NCjeeper

I am glad you guys were sleeping and missed this one.   I got this for 10 bucks on E-bay. M42 cobalt USA made new in the tube.


----------



## Just for fun

Wow Tom,  What a great deal !


----------



## FOMOGO

Picked up this 20' culvert (never used) off FBMP for a $100, which will be going in behind the shop in an area that is being temporarily drained by a ditch. Was gifted this Delta classic DP220 drill press from a friend. Needs a little tlc, but still tight. He also gave me a 3/4 drive, 300 lbft torque wrench, which he used once. Mike


----------



## slodat

I love old drill presses. I have a few and they are very satisfying to use and have in the shop. That Delta will clean up to as good as new if you want it to!


----------



## Just for fun

Picked this up yesterday at an antique shop for $7 bucks.  It had some thick dark oil in it.   Cleaned it out with WD40, seems to work good.


----------



## C-Bag

Doing my usual scan of the local CL my virtual vulture sense was triggered by this. A flat file has been on my wish list for several years with scarcity, size and $$ being the limiting factors. The tumblers fell into place with this one. Bit of a drive but worth it. 
5drawer 40 1/4 x28” $25


----------



## C-Bag

Just for fun said:


> Picked this up yesterday at an antique shop for $7 bucks.  It had some thick dark oil in it.   Cleaned it out with WD40, seems to work good.
> 
> View attachment 408374


Bought one just like it in a yard sale. It is perfect for all the ball oilers on my mill and lathe. They don’t make ‘em like that anymore.


----------



## JRaut

I've got a Holdridge 4-D Radii cutter, but it's just too big for my lathe. I'd have to remove the compound, make an adapter, etc., etc. Not worth the hassle.

So I've been on the lookout for the smaller 3-D, and finally found one for a reasonable price!! Looks like it's nearly new.


Related note --- Anyone interested in buying my 4-D? I'll post it on the Buy/Sell section here first, then over to eBay if there isn't interest.


----------



## IamNotImportant

i can't buy it.. maybe someone else can






						Log into Facebook
					

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.




					www.facebook.com


----------



## wachuko

Got an inexpensive set of 5/8” 9 Pieces/Set Indexable Carbide Lathe Turning Tool Holder and Boring Bar for the G0704…


----------



## Eyerelief

Even a blind cow finds an oat every now and then.
My mentor always talked about large cutters as "Big enough to be worth a re-sharpen".
I own a Drill Doctor to sharpen most of my conventional drill bits, but stop at 1/2" as to not be too hard on the Doc.  
The current stone on my 8" bench grinder is a 60 grit.  I have hand sharpened a few bits with it, but 60 grit leaves a courser finish than I would like.
I have come into quite a few cutters lately that people have turned their backs on.  These aren't chipped or busted, just dull.
Anyway, found this 8" stone in an "open box-return" pile.  The box was surely opened, but the stone had never been used. The part number puts it as Norton's 150 grit very fine stone.  In the truck for $21 so I figured I couldn't get in too much trouble giving it a go.
Since I am not talking about chipped or broken cutters, I am hoping this will be the ticket to put on a fresh edge. (The bits in the picture are just some of the ones that are in the way.  There are more, lots more)


----------



## wachuko

I just got tired of the extremely inexpensive digital caliper... so I got something better... could not stretch the budget for a Mitutoyo... so went with this one:

SHARS Aventor 6" /150mm DPS IP54 Electronic Digital Caliper DIN862


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> I just got tired of the extremely inexpensive digital caliper... so I got something better... could not stretch the budget for a Mitutoyo... so went with this one:
> 
> SHARS Aventor 6" /150mm DPS IP54 Electronic Digital Caliper DIN862
> 
> View attachment 408745


Let us know how you like it.  

I have shied away from ones like this in the past, perhaps due to an unjustified feeling that there should be some sort of scale finer that that on the instrument.  Should the battery go out, a wooden ruler would have finer gradations.  But that is just my opinion.  99% of the time, I have been pretty happy with my HF digital caliper.  Used to buy them whenever they went on sale for $9.95.  Those days are over.  I also have an old Starrett dial caliper, which I like very much.  The Starrett cost me $121 in 1989.  (Still have the receipt, I keep it in the original box.)  Haven't needed a single battery for it!  For shop use, I usually use the HF caliper for rough measurements, and micrometers for anything important.


----------



## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> Let us know how you like it.
> 
> I have shied away from ones like this in the past, perhaps due to an unjustified feeling that there should be some sort of scale finer that that on the instrument.  Should the battery go out, a wooden ruler would have finer gradations.  But that is just my opinion.  99% of the time, I have been pretty happy with my HF digital caliper.  Used to buy them whenever they went on sale for $9.95.  Those days are over.  I also have an old Starrett dial caliper, which I like very much.  The Starrett cost me $121 in 1989.  (Still have the receipt, I keep it in the original box.)  Haven't needed a single battery for it!  For shop use, I usually use the HF caliper for rough measurements, and micrometers for anything important.


I do not have a quality caliper (dial or digital) in my toolbox... all mine have been HF units (digital and dial calipers... ). So I need to step up and get something decent.   What made me do this now is the amount of times I had to reset the digital caliper working with the build of the float lock vise... not even funny anymore...

When I was searching there were a lot of Mitutoyo that looked to me to be fakes... nothing on that brand, for the real ones, is under 100.00... but I saw many listed as new for less than 70.00...  I did not even searched on Starrett 

This SHARS was 55.00.  Will report back on how it works out.

And I also need to invest in a quality set of micrometers...


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> I do not have a quality caliper (dial or digital) in my toolbox... all mine have been HF units (digital and dial calipers... ). So I need to step up and get something decent.   What made me do this now is the amount of times I had to reset the digital caliper working with the build of the float lock vise... not even funny anymore...
> 
> When I was searching there were a lot of Mitutoyo that looked to me to be fakes... nothing on that brand, for the real ones, is under 100.00... but I saw many listed as new for less than 70.00...  I did not even searched on Starrett
> 
> This SHARS was 55.00.  Will report back on how it works out.
> 
> And I also need to invest in a quality set of micrometers...


Resetting and rezeroing calipers does get old.

Although I broke down and bought a Mitutoyo 0-1" DigiMatic, last year, I have a set of ordinary vernier micrometers from Shars that have provided me many years of service.  The Shars set goes to 4".  I have used the set a lot, and have no complaints.  The mics hold their zero.  I have compared the Mit to the Shars 0-1" and they both read the same to the tenth.  At least when I bought the set, the price was right.


----------



## Brento

Today was new machine day. I didnt get a chance to get pictures of the move but she is all nestled in her bed. Next couple of weeks i will work on power and such. She needs a deep clean. And redressing of the chuck.


----------



## Jim F

Home hobby machinist buy sell trade | Facebook
					

This is a group for the home hobby machinist. Use it for sharing projects, sharing knowledge, as well as buying and selling machinist tools and/or machines. If you're selling it MUST be machinist...




					www.facebook.com
				




Not that I need it, but.......


----------



## Doug Gray

Not something I purchased but something I scored free of charge. The guys at work were cleaning out under the benches and I saved these from the scrap bin. Four pieces of one inch plate 2 3/4" x 4 1/2". Saw cut, not flame cut. Not sure what I will use them for. Ideas? One would make a nice bench dog. also random shaped piece of 1" plate.


----------



## Jim F

JRaut said:


> I've got a Holdridge 4-D Radii cutter, but it's just too big for my lathe. I'd have to remove the compound, make an adapter, etc., etc. Not worth the hassle.
> 
> So I've been on the lookout for the smaller 3-D, and finally found one for a reasonable price!! Looks like it's nearly new.
> 
> 
> Related note --- Anyone interested in buying my 4-D? I'll post it on the Buy/Sell section here first, then over to eBay if there isn't interest.
> 
> 
> View attachment 408473


What does it fit ?


----------



## Jim F

Doug Gray said:


> Not something I purchased but something I scored free of charge. The guys at work were cleaning out under the benches and I saved these from the scrap bin. Four pieces of one inch plate 2 3/4" x 4 1/2". Saw cut, not flame cut. Not sure what I will use them for. Ideas? One would make a nice bench dog. also random shaped piece of 1" plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 408816
> 
> View attachment 408817


Make the steel into mini toe clamps.


----------



## Papa Charlie

Set them aside until that project comes to mind. They certainly won't devalue over time given the current conditions.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

More "stuff" I don't really need, but. . .
The first is a grinder stand/fixture, from Sears. I hava a homade version on a (slow) wet wheel grinder. This thing looks like it will work on a high speed grinder. Cheaply made (aluminium) but a Craftsman so plausable. I'll try it out once I find the instruction sheet.


The other is a questionable bulk buy of "ship augers", wood bits. My father called them ship augers so I do too. There are over a hundred in all, some in pretty good shape, some in sore need of TLC, and some just down right questionable. I have a good supply of the "normal" sizes already, but the starting price was good and I didn't bid $0.50 over the asking price. Some things you just don't want to see go out as scrap iron. Brings to mind what a fellow thought of an expandable drill for doing locksets. The best he could come up with was a can opener. . .


----------



## Firstram

Expandable bits are awesome!


----------



## mmcmdl

Bi11Hudson said:


> More "stuff" I don't really need, but. . .
> The first is a grinder stand/fixture, from Sears. I hava a homade version on a (slow) wet wheel grinder. This thing looks like it will work on a high speed grinder. Cheaply made (aluminium) but a Craftsman so plausable. I'll try it out once I find the instruction sheet.


I have one of these Bill . I thought it was used for sharpening chisels .


----------



## mmcmdl

The auger bits . I have quite a few of these also down in the basement . I was thinking of sawing off the square drive to use in a drill press or hand drill . I think I have 1 or 4 of the old time swivel drills though .


----------



## vtcnc

Bi11Hudson said:


> The other is a questionable bulk buy of "ship augers", wood bits. My father called them ship augers so I do too. There are over a hundred in all, some in pretty good shape, some in sore need of TLC, and some just down right questionable. I have a good supply of the "normal" sizes already, but the starting price was good and I didn't bid $0.50 over the asking price. Some things you just don't want to see go out as scrap iron. Brings to mind what a fellow thought of an expandable drill for doing locksets. The best he could come up with was a can opener. . .
> View attachment 408821


Over the past few years, I've built a couple of benches out of hardwood and various species of mystery wood. The thing they had in common was slabby, thick pieces. I wanted to experience a hand build (no power tools) of this type of bench. I put together one unit for my Atlas 10" lathe and another was a combination Nicholson/Roubo style wood working bench. Last thing to do is flatten that with a scrub plane and then finish flat.

Point being, I used the augers with a hand brace like in your photos. My immediate observation was, holy crap, I've never drilled such a perfect hole. My second observation was, holy crap, this is a lot of work. The combination of the two made for an extremely satisfying experience.

edit: I should add, that the augers are fine to use so long as they are straight and not bent. And they are fairly easy to sharpen - another satisfying experience.


----------



## woodchucker

Bi11Hudson said:


> More "stuff" I don't really need, but. . .
> The first is a grinder stand/fixture, from Sears. I hava a homade version on a (slow) wet wheel grinder. This thing looks like it will work on a high speed grinder. Cheaply made (aluminium) but a Craftsman so plausable. I'll try it out once I find the instruction sheet.
> View attachment 408822
> 
> The other is a questionable bulk buy of "ship augers", wood bits. My father called them ship augers so I do too. There are over a hundred in all, some in pretty good shape, some in sore need of TLC, and some just down right questionable. I have a good supply of the "normal" sizes already, but the starting price was good and I didn't bid $0.50 over the asking price. Some things you just don't want to see go out as scrap iron. Brings to mind what a fellow thought of an expandable drill for doing locksets. The best he could come up with was a can opener. . .
> View attachment 408821


those grinding jigs work nice for chisels and plane blades on a slow speed wet stone.


----------



## wachuko

vtcnc said:


> Over the past few years, I've built a couple of benches out of hardwood and various species of mystery wood. The thing they had in common was slabby, thick pieces. I wanted to experience a hand build (no power tools) of this type of bench. I put together one unit for my Atlas 10" lathe and another was a combination Nicholson/Roubo style wood working bench. Last thing to do is flatten that with a scrub plane and then finish flat.
> 
> Point being, I used the augers with a hand brace like in your photos. My immediate observation was, holy crap, I've never drilled such a perfect hole. My second observation was, holy crap, this is a lot of work. The combination of the two made for an extremely satisfying experience.
> 
> edit: I should add, that the augers are fine to use so long as they are straight and not bent. And they are fairly easy to sharpen - another satisfying experience.


Any chance you took photos of that bench for the Atlas?  If you did, share them!


----------



## vtcnc

wachuko said:


> Any chance you took photos of that bench for the Atlas?  If you did, share them!



Here is a photo album for the wood working bench...








						Woodworking Bench
					

28 new items added to shared album




					photos.app.goo.gl
				




Forgot about this bench for the Atlas Mill...








						Atlas Milling Machine Bench
					

16 new items added to shared album




					photos.app.goo.gl
				




And after searching...realizing I don't have any real good photos of the Atlas lathe bench build. I'll have to add more to this album sometime...








						Atlas 10" Lathe Workbench
					

10 new items added to shared album




					photos.app.goo.gl


----------



## woodchucker

Bryan, you a leftie too? Damn you worked hard ripping that slab with a short crosscut saw.  
Nice work...


----------



## vtcnc

woodchucker said:


> Bryan, you a leftie too? Damn you worked hard ripping that slab with a short crosscut saw.
> Nice work...


No, but I learned real quick how to be ambidextrous since my right side was tuckered out.


----------



## Papa Charlie

vtcnc said:


> Here is a photo album for the wood working bench...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Woodworking Bench
> 
> 
> 28 new items added to shared album
> 
> 
> 
> 
> photos.app.goo.gl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Forgot about this bench for the Atlas Mill...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Atlas Milling Machine Bench
> 
> 
> 16 new items added to shared album
> 
> 
> 
> 
> photos.app.goo.gl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after searching...realizing I don't have any real good photos of the Atlas lathe bench build. I'll have to add more to this album sometime...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Atlas 10" Lathe Workbench
> 
> 
> 10 new items added to shared album
> 
> 
> 
> 
> photos.app.goo.gl


Some real nice work there.

Growing up that manual tools was all I had. You learn a healthy dose of respect for our forefathers and what they produced with simple tools. Had a set of bits and brace. Was my fathers, but someone else took a liking to it. Would love to have another set. They sure have become expensive these days. Especially when they add the term "Vintage" or "Collectable". Makes me feel old.


----------



## woodchucker

Papa Charlie said:


> Some real nice work there.
> 
> Growing up that manual tools was all I had. You learn a healthy dose of respect for our forefathers and what they produced with simple tools. Had a set of bits and brace. Was my fathers, but someone else took a liking to it. Would love to have another set. They sure have become expensive these days. Especially when they add the term "Vintage" or "Collectable". Makes me feel old.


I agree.
I was doing a lot of woodworking before machinist equip came in.  I find I can do very accurate work with hand tools. I knife all my cuts, and my saw follows it. Of course I am not talking a bench, but fine work.  A hand router. I have a cheap dovetail machine, used it once.. from then on all my dovetails were cut by hand. I am not in a rush, and love showing off hand made dovetails.  And there are dovetails that a router (electric) won't cut.
Big honking ones.

Being a machinist has upped my woodworking. I do somethings differently, and I appreciate both.. But wood has a beauty that metal doesn't usually...


----------



## Bi11Hudson

vtcnc said:


> edit: I should add, that the augers are fine to use so long as they are straight and not bent. And they are fairly easy to sharpen - another satisfying experience.


Some of my augers have been "bowed", not bent, they just don't run true. Especially those that have been cut down for use in a power drill. A lot of "old work" on old houses where the augers do better than paddle bits. I have trued some on a bench, it's not all that hard. Easier than trueing a shaft. The biggest problem with old work is when the auger hits a nail. The spur is as, or more, important than the cutting edge and usually takes the brunt of a nail. The 5/8" auger is usually what I use for electrical work. The gimlet can be reshaped if the time is taken. And lots of patience. . . Those 4 inch files are useful for more than just model building. . . 

I wish I had had time to do fine woodwork. Just like with machine work, when I make something, it's because I need it NOW. No time to do a pretty job. I keep telling myself that "someday" I'll build some fancy wood toolboxes. Lots of wood (red oak, mahogany, ebony, walnut) flooring that can be milled down to make the parts. When I am no longer, at least Wife does occasional woodwork too, so the piles out in the barn don't become more firewood. That's the reality of the situation, much as I dislike it.

.


----------



## woodchucker

Bi11Hudson said:


> Some of my augers have been "bowed", not bent, they just don't run true. Especially those that have been cut down for use in a power drill. A lot of "old work" on old houses where the augers do better than paddle bits. I have trued some on a bench, it's not all that hard. Easier than trueing a shaft. The biggest problem with old work is when the auger hits a nail. The spur is as, or more, important than the cutting edge and usually takes the brunt of a nail. The 5/8" auger is usually what I use for electrical work. The gimlet can be reshaped if the time is taken. And lots of patience. . . Those 4 inch files are useful for more than just model building. . .
> 
> I wish I had had time to do fine woodwork. Just like with machine work, when I make something, it's because I need it NOW. No time to do a pretty job. I keep telling myself that "someday" I'll build some fancy wood toolboxes. Lots of wood (red oak, mahogany, ebony, walnut) flooring that can be milled down to make the parts. When I am no longer, at least Wife does occasional woodwork too, so the piles out in the barn don't become more firewood. That's the reality of the situation, much as I dislike it.
> 
> .


also for old work, the wood gets harder. Old wood was harder to begin with, because of the number of rings, but the lignum definitely hardens quite a bit over time.


----------



## alloy

Got these at an estate sale this morning just down the road. Paid $30 for both.

Not sure if I want to keep the intake/carb or not.  I only have one engine with a carb and it's a 454. This carb is only a 650 so not really big enough.


----------



## DavidR8

Managed to win an auction for a Delta Platinum Edition 14” bandsaw with factory mobile base. 
Absolutely mint condition. Very happy!


----------



## Larry$

Eyerelief said:


> I bought the plastic version and hung it on the wall.  I noticed after about 6 months that the plastic was distorting a little so I added a tiny shelf under it to support the weight.  Now the keyholes only keep it against the wall, the shelf carries the load.  I guess it could still fail, but I'd have to work at it.


I've got two 1/2" sets in plastic hanging on the wall. One came with my used mill about 10 years ago. I bought a second 1/2" set about 5 years ago and then a 3/8" set soon after. I think all are Chinese. No apparent sagging. They are easy to get the step blocks, & two kinds of nuts in & out but the studs are a pretty sloppy fit, they also go in & out easily.  I don't have a made in USA set to compare to but these work fine for me.


----------



## wachuko

Bought a used sine plate 6"x 6" x 2 1/4" - 5" between roller centers...

Photos from the listing...


----------



## Brento

wachuko said:


> Bought a used sine plate 6"x 6" x 2 1/4" - 5" between roller centers...
> 
> Photos from the listing...
> 
> View attachment 408920
> 
> View attachment 408921
> 
> View attachment 408922
> 
> View attachment 408923


That is what i am in the market for with my grinder.


----------



## jwmelvin

wachuko said:


> Bought a used sine plate 6"x 6" x 2 1/4" - 5" between rollers



Like @Brento I am also in the market for one. Would you share a little of your search and decision on which one to buy?


----------



## Bi11Hudson

woodchucker said:


> also for old work, the wood gets harder. Old wood was harder to begin with, because of the number of rings, but the lignum definitely hardens quite a bit over time.


Most of the old work I have done is houses that were built when B'ham grew up like magic, 1880s to 1930s. My house was built in(around) 1887, the date from the deed. At that time, a lot of construction was with "red pine", or "Georgia Pitch Pine", or "hard" pine. I have burned up a skilsaw blade cutting in just one door frame. Common wire nails just bend, I used a number of cut (square) nails. An auger was cut down because I wasn't man enough in my prime to cut through by hand. By 1975, the house could well have been built from oak. 



alloy said:


> Got these at an estate sale this morning just down the road. Paid $30 for both.
> 
> Not sure if I want to keep the intake/carb or not.  I only have one engine with a carb and it's a 454. This carb is only a 650 so not really big enough.
> View attachment 408852


One of the "junkers" I drove in the '70s was a Pontaic station wagon. It had a 455 engine and a *two barrel* carb. Thirsty around town, but on the road (at ~80 MPH) it got exceptionally good mileage. I think a '72 model, just before EPA grew teeth.

.


----------



## wachuko

jwmelvin said:


> Like @Brento I am also in the market for one. Would you share a little of your search and decision on which one to buy?



 It is best that people that actually know about this, chime in...  seriously, I am clueless... 

I just saw it for less than 100.00 and bought it.  No idea if it is a good one or what...  Everything else I saw was over 150.00 + shipping...  I knew I wanted something with threaded holes to make it easier to secure stuff to it...

Oh, and I do not have a grinder


----------



## Brento

I mean realistically i need 2 sin plates. I should run a mag one on the grinder and the other would be for the mill.


----------



## jwmelvin

wachuko said:


> I am clueless...



I feel the same way. It’s not all that easy to inspect and qualify these things. I suppose one could compare against a sine bar. Was your used or new?


----------



## wachuko

jwmelvin said:


> I feel the same way. It’s not all that easy to inspect and qualify these things. I suppose one could compare against a sine bar. Was your used or new?


Used.  Most of this stuff I need to buy used.


----------



## Jim F

people need to stop putting stuff on FB Marketplace........
It is a rabbit hole.....


----------



## mmcmdl

Jim F said:


> people need to stop putting stuff on FB Marketplace........
> It is a rabbit hole.....


 So Ebay asked for my tax ID before I could put anything else on their site . BS , I've gone over to FB Marketplace with great luck .


----------



## alloy

Bi11Hudson said:


> One of the "junkers" I drove in the '70s was a Pontaic station wagon. It had a 455 engine and a *two barrel* carb. Thirsty around town, but on the road (at ~80 MPH) it got exceptionally good mileage. I think a '72 model, just before EPA grew teeth.
> 
> .


I have a 780 holley on my pickup.  I use it ONLY for towing my big trailer and haven't moved it since june fo 2018.  When I'm towing it I use all the 454 can give me.  Had a older 650 on it before and it took a dump and threw the 780 off my old chevelle drag car and what a difference, 

But thinking I may keep the manifold/carb.  I've got a old skool 350 thats fresh and a set of ported heads for it.  If I find a car for decent money I could drop the engine in and flip it.  But, knowing me I'd keep it. I'm a packrat my wife tells me.  Yes I kept my cat40 tooling for 20 years, then then at 21 years I bought a vmc that uses cat 40.  She didn't say much when I told her about that.  Also kept my 5 and  16c collet closers from my old turning center, and now have another turning center.   Wife didn't think much about that either.


----------



## erikmannie

After I brought in a knee mill & organized my garage to the best of my ability, I still had 5 heavy totes & 6 smallish boxes that are both (1) not on wheels, and (2) in the way of machining & welding.

I usually carry *all* these out to the side yard before working in the shop. This takes time & I was feeling it in my back just a little.

I bought the 72” high rolling cart, 2 extra shelves & 5” high casters (which add 6” to the height of shelves) shown below in order to just roll the whole shebang out in one shot.

Note that the max height to fit through the man door is 80”, so I only left 2” clearance. This means that nothing can go on the top shelf.

Anything that cannot fit on this rolling shelf will be purged!

Links:








						Black Wire Shelving Unit - 36 x 18 x 72
					

4 SHELF STARTER UNIT Decorative heavy-duty black wire shelving looks good in offices, stores and warehouses. Easy assembly – No tools needed. Shelves adjust in 1" increments. Open wire maximizes airflow, reduces dirt and dust build-up. Black powder coating resists corrosion, lasts for years. NSF...




					www.uline.com
				












						Additional Black Wire Shelves - 36 x 18
					

Add extra shelves to Black Wire Shelving Units . Includes snap-on plastic shelf supports. NSF certified. Black powder-coated steel resists rust and corrosion. Easy assembly. No tools required.ULINE offers over 38,500 boxes, plastic poly bags, mailing tubes, warehouse supplies and bubble wrap for...




					www.uline.com
				












						Polyurethane Casters for Wire Shelving Units - Set of 4, Black H-1205WH-BL  - Uline
					

5" polyurethane stem casters add mobility to your wire shelving. Swivel, lockable. Adds 6" to height of shelving unit. For use with Uline Wire Shelving . ULINE offers over 38,500 boxes, plastic poly bags, mailing tubes, warehouse supplies and bubble wrap for your storage, packaging, or shipping...




					www.uline.com


----------



## kiwi_007

Bi11Hudson said:


> One of those deals where waiting and watching pays off. $30 bux, plus some shipping. It doesnt rate a "You Suck", I have some work still to do to make it fit. But for under $50 bux total, I got plenty of patience. Good heavy iron, not some import flimsey toy. I suspect a little old fashioned, it doesn't open up, and the screws need to be refitted for length. But to fit the Atlas, all it needs is a flat bottom plate. I have a steady for the small machine that  has been refitted with small roller bearings. Now I got one for the big machine. It is 5 inches from the top of the clearance, 6 inches to the bottom ov the "V" ways. A perfect fit for a Craftsman/Atlas 12 inch machine.
> View attachment 404966


If that steady is 5" across the base it looks like it is for a Hardinge HLV, and they sell for pretty good money


----------



## Doug Gray

Wiss inlaid $2 score!
Garage sale


----------



## alloy

Another garage sale


----------



## NCjeeper

18N super chuck with MT5 arbor.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought an R8 1” end mill holder:









						1
					






					www.suncoasttools.com
				




and an R8 slitting saw arbor:









						R8 Shank Slitting and Slotting Saw Arbor, Fits Saws with 1/2
					






					www.suncoasttools.com
				




and 2 slitting saws for the arbor above:






						KBC,5X1/16X1 PLAIN SAW,5-747-200,KBC Tools & Machinery
					

KBC,5X1/16X1 PLAIN SAW,5-747-200,KBC Tools & Machinery




					www.kbctools.com
				




*BUT* I made a huge mistake, & bought the above items from an independent tool dealer before *shopping around first*. In addition to this, the independent tool dealer charged *me* 4% for using a debit card (which is a VISA card). Huge ripoff!

I emailed the independent dealer, and asked him to cancel. If he doesn’t cancel, I will refuse the order and dispute the charge with my credit card company. I’m going to calculate now how much I overpaid by not shopping around first.

Edit: I overpaid by $123.06.

What would you guys do in this situation? He charged my credit card on a Saturday at noon, & I sent him an email to cancel the order 12 hours later.

Lesson learned: 
*Rather than trusting somebody, shop around before giving them your hard earned money.* 

Never again!


----------



## extropic

@erikmannie 

I think you're doing the right thing. If the supplier doesn't reply or says it's already shipped, refuse delivery and dispute the charge with your bank. I don't know how it works with Debit cards. Ask the bank if the 4% charge is within the law/rules. I think you'll have better luck focusing on the 4%,  rather than buyers remorse.

Always shop around, unless it's not worth your time.


----------



## erikmannie

extropic said:


> @erikmannie
> 
> I think you're doing the right thing. If the supplier doesn't reply or says it's already shipped, refuse delivery and dispute the charge with your bank. I don't know how it works with Debit cards. Ask the bank if the 4% charge is within the law/rules. I think you'll have better luck focusing on the 4%,  rather than buyers remorse.
> 
> Always shop around, unless it's not worth your time.


Great advice. I talked to the guy on the phone, & I told him that I usually work long hours for days on end. Maybe he assumed that I would never have time to check his pricing.

It will be interesting to see what he says. I will be checking in with my bank sooner rather than later to see if I can reverse the charge, mentioning that it cannot have shipped yet.

I know that I can reverse the charge if I want to take the time to go in to the bank.


----------



## AGCB97

I read their 'terms and conditions' and there is no mention of any 4% charge.


----------



## erikmannie

AGCB97 said:


> I read their 'terms and conditions' and there is no mention of any 4% charge.


I wish that I would have bought from any of the vendors that I linked!

I bought from an independent tool dealer. I don’t want to dox the guy, but he seems to be a one man operation. To his credit, he was clearly quite knowledgeable about machining.

I wish I could name the guy and/or his company, but it would almost certainly cause a stink. Having spoken with him on the phone, I could tell that he would not appreciate having his name dragged through the mud.

If somebody reading this is considering doing business with an independent tool dealer one day, just learn from my mistake & compare his prices *before* you pay him.


----------



## erikmannie

Update on the cancellation of the order from the independent tool dealer:

He says that he will mail a check.


----------



## Liljoebrshooter

So you slam the guy for you not doing your own price comparison?
Joe


----------



## Papa Charlie

He is not refunding your CC charge of 4% which he never informed you of to begin with. If he just contacted the CC company and cancelled the charge you should get all of it back. 
I would contact your CC company and see what they can do. He should have informed you of all charges up front.


----------



## matthewsx

Running a small business is difficult what with taxes, credit card processing fees and shipping charges, etc....

I don't think it's any fault of this vendor that you found a lower price on the items, you said he's knowledgeable on the products and that in itself is a valuable service. Larger companies probably have better pricing and terms which allow them to discount things further than small ones. 

When I ran my kart engine business I would routinely purchase items at or near retail and mark them up appropriately so I could make a profit. I also spent a great deal more time helping my customers figure out what they needed than the big guys would/could ever do. 

If it were me I wouldn't quibble about the 4%, just take it as a lesson that you may want to shop around before placing your next order.

JMHO,

John


----------



## WobblyHand

Ordered two reamers.  A 0.2485" and a 0.2490".  Got a mixed result.  Received the 0.2490" from Zoro, and actually received a "value" Grainger reamer from India, curiously marked as 1/4-0.001 on the part and 0.2490" on the tube label.  Will measure to see what it actually is.  Hoping it is useful.

The second reamer was a Union Butterfield NOS 0.2485" pn. 5010622.  What I got was UB pn. 5010662, which is a 0.3760" reamer.  I started a return on the item.  Just got notification that I will get a refund to my CC, and I get to keep the reamer.  Vendor didn't have what he listed, and didn't want to pay for the return shipment.  Weird, but I guess in a good way for me.  

fleabay is a crap shoot at times... overall, have done reasonably well, but some times are just odd.


----------



## matthewsx

Papa Charlie said:


> He is not refunding your CC charge of 4% which he never informed you of to begin with. If he just contacted the CC company and cancelled the charge you should get all of it back.
> I would contact your CC company and see what they can do. He should have informed you of all charges up front.


This might be true but without knowing what agreements he has with merchant services you really can't say. My experience with merchant accounts is they always make the business eat any costs they can. They have tremendous power over small businesses and can literally eat up your profit margin with fees. When my customers were making large purchases I would always encourage them to pay with cash or check if possible. 

That said, it's a pet peeve of mine when businesses charge extra for me to use a credit card. If they're going to accept cards they should just mark up the products appropriately so they can maintain their margin. It doesn't keep me from shopping with my favorite businesses but it's a minor irritation for me.

John


----------



## erikmannie

Update on the purchase from the independent tool dealer:

After he offered/arranged to mail me a refund check less the 4% credit card fee, I felt like a bit of a flake for backing out of the deal after it had gone through. He had spent a fair amount of time on the phone with me discussing my immediate tooling needs and his business services, and I didn’t want him to leave with a sour experience. I might be willing to burn bridges, but certainly not with a machinist or welder!

Also, I would have had to (anxiously?) wait for the check, and take the time to place 2 or 3 new orders. Who wants to take a step backwards?!

I texted him & told him that if he wanted to go back in time 24 hours we could just proceed with the original (already paid) invoice. He agreed, and said that he would likely have better pricing on my next purchase, which happens to be a 30° cutter. You can imagine the shopping around that I will do before I send him money again, as I spent $123 (equivalent to 33% of the order) more than I needed to on my first order with him.

To his credit, he has a tremendous amount of knowledge (including feeds & speeds!) about the products that he supplies. You’re probably not getting that from, as an example, Suncoast Tools.


----------



## matthewsx

I think this is the right thing to do. Many businesses are reluctant to service hobby customers as we probably take up an inordinate amount of time for the size of orders we place. Hopefully he will make it right with your next order.

Now that you have pro sized machines you’ll need to up your game with tooling. Having someone you can count on to give good info may well just save money in the long run. 

John


----------



## Aaron_W

matthewsx said:


> I think this is the right thing to do. Many businesses are reluctant to service hobby customers as we probably take up an inordinate amount of time for the size of orders we place. Hopefully he will make it right with your next order.
> 
> Now that you have pro sized machines you’ll need to up your game with tooling. Having someone you can count on to give good info may well just save money in the long run.
> 
> John



I hear this a lot from people with physical stores. People come in, ask a lot of questions, look at the goods and then turn around and order online to save a few dollars then they don't know why the very convenient local store goes out of business.


----------



## Jim F

didn't buy today, picked-up today.
6 drawer Kennedy roller that was in a flood.
cleaned up ok. works for what I need, for $75, and $32 in gas.
Good news, 2007 Focus with 175k mi.'s gets 38 mpg on a 250 mi. round trip.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

WobblyHand said:


> Ordered two reamers.  A 0.2485" and a 0.2490".  Got a mixed result.  Received the 0.2490" from Zoro, and actually received a "value" Grainger reamer from India, curiously marked as 1/4-0.001 on the part and 0.2490" on the tube label.  Will measure to see what it actually is.  Hoping it is useful.
> 
> The second reamer was a Union Butterfield NOS 0.2485" pn. 5010622.  What I got was UB pn. 5010662, which is a 0.3760" reamer.  I started a return on the item.  Just got notification that I will get a refund to my CC, and I get to keep the reamer.  Vendor didn't have what he listed, and didn't want to pay for the return shipment.  Weird, but I guess in a good way for me.
> 
> fleabay is a crap shoot at times... overall, have done reasonably well, but some times are just odd.


I have bags and bags of reamers, send me a pm and I can send you some pics


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a plug & receptacle. I am trying to get my new mill going.


----------



## Aaron_W

I bought an Arduino starter kit. I am very uncomfortable working with electronics and thought this might help me. I bought 2, I'll give the other one to my older son, he wants to work with computers so thought he might take an interest in it.


----------



## AGCB97

There are lots of tutorials online for Arduino. This guy is easy to understand and proceeds well.




__





						paul mcquarter - Bing video
					






					www.bing.com
				




I personally like Parallax Propellers and the native SPIN language is much easier IMO


----------



## finsruskw

Drill Hog set arrived yesterday in good condition.
Along with a note that these are indeed Made in USA and are warranted if broken.
Now all I need is a dedicated shelf or drawer for bits!!


----------



## IamNotImportant

finsruskw said:


> Drill Hog set arrived yesterday in good condition.
> Along with a note that these are indeed Made in USA and are warranted if broken.
> Now all I need is a dedicated shelf or drawer for bits!!











						Vevor Three Pieces Drill Bit Dispenser Organizer Cabinet 1/16"-1/2" A-z #1-60  | VEVOR US
					

Discover Vevor Three Pieces Drill Bit Dispenser Organizer Cabinet 1/16"-1/2" A-z #1-60, Cohesive Organizer and Easy Identification at lowest price, 2days delivery, 30days returns.




					www.vevor.com


----------



## IamNotImportant

anyone buy from this place









						Demo/Used/Overstock
					

Huge discounts on items that have been demonstrated or used prior, still to manufacturer specifications. As well as brand new closeout and overstock items. Note: Some items may have cosmetic changes to the tool or packaging material (example; nicks on case or housing and/or frame of gage...




					shop.idealprec.com


----------



## WobblyHand

Yes.  I bought a new DTI from them.  Interapid 0.0001.  Very nice.  At least for new stuff, very good to deal with.  Don't know how they grade used stuff, but it seems like they don't hide anything, at least judging by their pictures.


----------



## JRaut

Got me a new Tree Taper Boring Head. Looks darn near brand new; even came with the original instructions and wrenches!

This is actually my third Tree boring head I've had over the years, plus I currently have a Lenz LKD II taper boring head destined for a new home. I've sold off the other Trees but I think I'll end up keeping this one for the long haul.








Traded it straight up for this HUGE old shaft vise (over 100# of luscious French iron), for which I had less than zero need.


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> Yes.  I bought a new DTI from them.  Interapid 0.0001.  Very nice.  At least for new stuff, very good to deal with.  Don't know how they grade used stuff, but it seems like they don't hide anything, at least judging by their pictures.


thank you for the feedback


----------



## wachuko

JRaut said:


> Got me a new Tree Taper Boring Head. Looks darn near brand new; even came with the original instructions and wrenches!
> 
> This is actually my third Tree boring head I've had over the years, plus I currently have a Lenz LKD II taper boring head destined for a new home. I've sold off the other Trees but I think I'll end up keeping this one for the long haul.
> 
> View attachment 409390
> 
> 
> View attachment 409392
> 
> 
> 
> Traded it straight up for this HUGE old shaft vise (over 100# of luscious French iron), for which I had less than zero need.
> 
> View attachment 409391


I am going to have to search on YouTube to see how that is used...


----------



## JRaut

wachuko said:


> I am going to have to search on YouTube to see how that is used...



They're cooler than they are useful.

But I like cool. 


Renzetti also has a video on them:


----------



## IamNotImportant

anyone know a good source for liner bearings


----------



## NCjeeper

IamNotImportant said:


> anyone know a good source for liner bearings


You checked McMaster-Carr already?


----------



## IamNotImportant

NCjeeper said:


> You checked McMaster-Carr already?


not them yet.. but will i am looking for some very smooth ones.. be willing to spend a lil more for real quality


----------



## Janderso

I finally have a face plate for my lathe.
I found it on Ebay.
It was a fair price.
I cleaned it up a bit and mounted it. Runs smooth- no wabble!!


----------



## Eyerelief

Oh yea, that faceplate is cool!  What will you bolt to if first?


----------



## Papa Charlie

Janderso said:


> I finally have a face plate for my lathe.
> I found it on Ebay.
> It was a fair price.
> I cleaned it up a bit and mounted it. Runs smooth- no wabble!!


Good that you got one that fits in the space. For me, a backing plate should be as large as possible as the face it the mounting surface unlike a scroll or 4 jaw. You can mount some really odd ball shapes on them.
I bought a 14" or 16", can't remember of top of my head, for my lathe, use it when the gap is removed. It's run out was excessive so just turned the face. The larger size allowed me to use hold down clamps on the perimeter of the work piece more easily.


----------



## Janderso

Eyerelief said:


> Oh yea, that faceplate is cool!  What will you bolt to if first?


Ah, hmmmmm not sure.
There have been times where I could have used it.


----------



## WobblyHand

Somewhere, quite a few pages back, I had bought some reamers.  Now I am 0 for 2.  For the 0.2485" reamer, they shipped a 0.3760" (haven't measured it yet.)  I hadn't gotten a chance to try out the 0.2490" reamer.  I was skeptical when I opened the package...

That questionably marked reamer, well, it cuts large.  It is marked on the tube as 0.2490", and on the reamer itself, as '1/4 - 0.001".  Tried it out today.  It makes a hole at least 0.2500.  I have a pin that mics at 0.2495", wanted a 0.2490" reamer for an interference fit.  My pin just falls through the hole.    I thought, well, I could have run-out, but let's check the reamer.  0.2495" mid reamer, well that's not encouraging, it's out of spec already.  For giggles, how wide is the cutting end?  0.2501x, there's my slip fit even if I had zero run-out.  Guess I will make a return on this reamer as well.  They probably won't want it back.  I need to mark it somehow so I never use it again as a reamer.  Might be ok for turning it into something else, just not a reamer.


----------



## Winegrower

Regarding reamers, not so long ago I bought a set of "over/under" reamers, from 1/8" to 1/2" by 16th.   There are two reamers for each size, one is 0.001 over nominal, the other 0.001 under.    This has been wonderfully useful...it makes press fits a snap, it allows very close bolt hole fits, and just kind of ups my game a bit.   It was probably Shars or such, quality is adequate for occasional use and it works fine in steel.   I use Anchor Lube liberally.


----------



## WobblyHand

Winegrower said:


> Regarding reamers, not so long ago I bought a set of "over/under" reamers, from 1/8" to 1/2" by 16th.   There are two reamers for each size, one is 0.001 over nominal, the other 0.001 under.    This has been wonderfully useful...it makes press fits a snap, it allows very close bolt hole fits, and just kind of ups my game a bit.   It was probably Shars or such, quality is adequate for occasional use and it works fine in steel.   I use Anchor Lube liberally.


Sounds like a good idea!  Will check out the listings for something like this.


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> Sounds like a good idea!  Will check out the listings for something like this.


i just checked the reamers that i got second hand.. .249


----------



## kopcicle

ubiquitous comestibles


----------



## f350ca

From my favourite shopping centre, the local dump. An Ironhorse thats missing the kick start and a model MWB Brigs and Stratton. Apparently these were used on washing machines and water pumps in their day. Have a complete Ironhorse that I found a few years ago at the same store. Oh they have an incredible return policy, no time limit and no receipt for full refund. lol



Greg


----------



## tq60

matthewsx said:


> This might be true but without knowing what agreements he has with merchant services you really can't say. My experience with merchant accounts is they always make the business eat any costs they can. They have tremendous power over small businesses and can literally eat up your profit margin with fees. When my customers were making large purchases I would always encourage them to pay with cash or check if possible.
> 
> That said, it's a pet peeve of mine when businesses charge extra for me to use a credit card. If they're going to accept cards they should just mark up the products appropriately so they can maintain their margin. It doesn't keep me from shopping with my favorite businesses but it's a minor irritation for me.
> 
> John


Had a card processing once.

Every transaction has a fee, both ways.

So keeping the fee is valid, most will not do this but your reason for canceling warrants it.


Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


----------



## kopcicle

f350ca said:


> From my favourite shopping centre, the local dump. An Ironhorse thats missing the kick start and a model MWB Brigs and Stratton. Apparently these were used on washing machines and water pumps in their day. Have a complete Ironhorse that I found a few years ago at the same store. Oh they have an incredible return policy, no time limit and no receipt for full refund. lol
> View attachment 409553
> 
> 
> Greg


Ahhh , reminds me of the Maytag of old 








__





						Maytag Flyer, A 72 on 2 wheels
					

My project is finally on the road. It will get paint and details later.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Te389SWO2k&feature=youtu.be



					www.smokstak.com


----------



## wachuko

kopcicle said:


> Ahhh , reminds me of the Maytag of old



Very cool!!!


----------



## erikmannie

I cashed out my last week of vacation on the books, and used every penny of it to pay down 5.2%  of my consumer debt (which is all tooling).

This was the fifth time that I have done this in 2022. Who needs a vacation, anyway?


----------



## wachuko

erikmannie said:


> I cashed out my last week of vacation on the books, and used every penny of it to pay down 5.2%  of my consumer debt (which is all tooling).
> 
> This was the fifth time that I have done this in 2022. Who needs a vacation, anyway?


Oh man... I do... I need to be by water every so often or I go insane... the islander in me...


----------



## Gaffer

The pallet jack I bought a few months ago began leaking. I bought a seal kit for it but I didn't have the various snap ring pliers and roll pin punches for the repair. Harbor Freight had a sale, so I bought their ICON snap ring plier kit. It is complete and of good quality. For the roll pin punches, I opted for the Grace USA set, and it is excellent. I got everything disassembled and cleaned last weekend but lost a 1" snap ring. I couldn't find one locally, so I ordered a 315-piece set (overkill, but only $11.49 from Amazon) and it arrived yesterday. I won't be able to work on it for another week or so, but I should be good to go now.


----------



## FOMOGO

Just ordered this yesterday. Going to try to convert it for Z axis use on my Series 1 Bridgeport. Figured it's worth a shot for the money.

Funny, I just ordered the same snap ring set. Needed some for my sliding garage door trolley setup.



Gaffer said:


> I got everything disassembled and cleaned last weekend but lost a 1" snap ring. I couldn't find one locally, so I ordered a 315-piece set (overkill, but only $11.49 from Amazon) and it arrived yesterday.




fo​


AL-310S X-AXIS Power Feed Milling Machine 110V 450in-lb continuous Vari Speeds
$136.56Unit price $136.56
Item number:202049892525
 Returns accepted through Jul 16, 2022.
Contact seller


----------



## woodchucker

FOMOGO said:


> Just ordered this yesterday. Going to try to convert it for Z axis use on my Series 1 Bridgeport. Figured it's worth a shot for the money.
> 
> Funny, I just ordered the same snap ring set. Needed some for my sliding garage door trolley setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fo​
> 
> 
> AL-310S X-AXIS Power Feed Milling Machine 110V 450in-lb continuous Vari Speeds
> $136.56Unit price $136.56
> Item number:202049892525
> Returns accepted through Jul 16, 2022.
> Contact seller


That's similar to what I picked up ... mine was 150lbs, So far I'm happy.  Good luck.


----------



## erikmannie

82° included angle, USA Made solid carbide countersink. 1 1/2” diameter, 3/4” shank.




I will use this for beveling 1” mild steel  plate. I wanted 75° included angle, but I sure couldn’t find that.


----------



## erikmannie

135° split point, USA Made solid carbide screw machine drill, 2” LOC, 3-3/4” OAL.




This is what I would use after a spotting drill, after (optional) step drilling, and immediately before a 1/2” shank brazed carbide boring bar (in a boring head).

My R8 drill chuck takes up to a 5/8” shank. Just trying to get a hole big enough to get a suitably rigid boring bar in there!

I prefer stubby drills, but this is almost too stubby!


----------



## IamNotImportant

yeah.. i like stubby drill bits too


----------



## erikmannie

I had to do over an hour of Google searching for a USA Made, 1/2” shank brazed carbide, cobalt or solid carbide non-indexable boring bar for use in a boring head. I wanted a minimum 9/16” boring diameter.

It looks like USA Made brazed carbide boring bars cost about ten times as much as imports.

I settled on the item below, and I bought 2 because these wear out.









						Borite C2 Carbide Tipped Boring Bar, 1/2" Dia., 1-1/2" Bore Depth, 9/16" Min. Bore - B9S - 24-676-074
					

Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.




					www.penntoolco.com
				




Here are other sizes if you are interested:









						Borite Grade C2 Carbide Tipped Boring Bars
					

Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.




					www.penntoolco.com
				




The shanks are HSS so I made sure to choose the shortest one that I could get away with. This happened to be a 1 1/2” bore depth.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

No photo, although I probably could round one up if required. 3X 1/4-36 taps, spiral point. I have a number of 40 TPI taps, for archaic mechanical adjustments. 0.025 per turn, yada, yada, yada. So what purpose would a 36 TPI serve? I am bad to stash "nonstandard" tooling of any sort. And these taps were very cheap, cost as much or more to mail 'em than the taps cost. Good quality, US made, sharp, clean, well worth the price. But what the #e!! are they for? Way too large for Heli-coils. . . And not likely adjustment screws. So where/what would they fit?

.


----------



## finsruskw

FOMOGO said:


> Just ordered this yesterday. Going to try to convert it for Z axis use on my Series 1 Bridgeport. Figured it's worth a shot for the money.
> 
> Funny, I just ordered the same snap ring set. Needed some for my sliding garage door trolley setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fo​
> 
> 
> AL-310S X-AXIS Power Feed Milling Machine 110V 450in-lb continuous Vari Speeds
> $136.56Unit price $136.56
> Item number:202049892525
> Returns accepted through Jul 16, 2022.
> Contact seller


Please start a thread on the installation.
I have been considering one for my Jet JTM-2 and I believe this same model should fit it as well.
Thanks!


----------



## WobblyHand

Bi11Hudson said:


> No photo, although I probably could round one up if required. 3X 1/4-36 taps, spiral point. I have a number of 40 TPI taps, for archaic mechanical adjustments. 0.025 per turn, yada, yada, yada. So what purpose would a 36 TPI serve? I am bad to stash "nonstandard" tooling of any sort. And these taps were very cheap, cost as much or more to mail 'em than the taps cost. Good quality, US made, sharp, clean, well worth the price. But what the #e!! are they for? Way too large for Heli-coils. . . And not likely adjustment screws. So where/what would they fit?
> 
> .


Couldn't tell you where 1/4-36 would be used. 

 Only place I have seen 36 tpi was on some 8-36 long screws holding an electric motor case together.  Was a US Navy motor with a gear head.  Wanted to replace the screws, but couldn't find any replacements.  No one stocks 8-36 at 4" length.  The length is from memory, so it may be faulty, but I searched high and low for those screws.  Ended up cleaning up the threads and reusing the screws, because that was the only reasonable option.


----------



## wachuko

Finally pulled the trigger on a ratchet leverage arbor press.  Went with a 3-Ton.




I really do not care for the 1-Ton that I have... just does not feel like it has the punch to do any meaningful work... 




Truth is, I always wanted a ratchet one... figured, knowing how disappointed I was with the 1-Ton, that I would go for something with more punch... 

I will have to repaint it when it gets here... of course... hahahahahahaha


----------



## Janderso

FOMOGO said:


> Just ordered this yesterday. Going to try to convert it for Z axis use on my Series 1 Bridgeport. Figured it's worth a shot for the money.
> 
> Funny, I just ordered the same snap ring set. Needed some for my sliding garage door trolley setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fo​
> 
> 
> AL-310S X-AXIS Power Feed Milling Machine 110V 450in-lb continuous Vari Speeds
> $136.56Unit price $136.56
> Item number:202049892525
> Returns accepted through Jul 16, 2022.
> Contact seller


After owning a Bridgeport with the crank handle on the knee and now owning a Sharp mill with the Z and X power feed,
I’ll never go back.
We are constantly adjusting knee height.

Hope it works out fomoco.


----------



## wachuko

Janderso said:


> After owning a Bridgeport with the crank handle on the knee and now owning a Sharp mill with the Z and X power feed,
> I’ll never go back.
> We are constantly adjusting knee height.
> 
> Hope it works out fomoco.


I agree... that is the best modification I made to my milling machine... but I paid $$$ dearly for it... yikes.

The amount of times I have to lower the knee for changing cutters, or adjusting for depth... insane... best mod made ever!

So if @FOMOGO can do it for cheap... man, I just do not want to know!!


----------



## Janderso

wachuko said:


> Finally pulled the trigger on a ratchet leverage arbor press.  Went with a 3-Ton.
> 
> View attachment 409670
> 
> 
> I really do not care for the 1-Ton that I have... just does not feel like it has the punch to do any meaningful work...
> 
> View attachment 409671
> 
> 
> Truth is, I always wanted a ratchet one... figured, knowing how disappointed I was with the 1-Ton, that I would go for something with more punch...
> 
> I will have to repaint it when it gets here... of course... hahahahahahaha


The big problem with the small presses is the limited working range.
Your average broach is 11” long


----------



## BGHansen

Janderso said:


> After owning a Bridgeport with the crank handle on the knee and now owning a Sharp mill with the Z and X power feed,
> I’ll never go back.
> We are constantly adjusting knee height.
> 
> Hope it works out fomoco.


+1 on the knee power feed.  My BP is 2-axis CNC with readouts on the X/Y, nothing on the Z.  I bought a single-axis DRO for the knee and stopped tramming the scale after the first cycle of up/down.  One turn for 0.1" in the Z got old really fast when tramming a 16" travel scale (150 turns to move 15").  Mine is a 150 ft. lb. Asong unit from All-Industrial Tool supply for under $350.

Bruce


----------



## Janderso

BGHansen said:


> +1 on the knee power feed.  My BP is 2-axis CNC with readouts on the X/Y, nothing on the Z.  I bought a single-axis DRO for the knee and stopped tramming the scale after the first cycle of up/down.  One turn for 0.1" in the Z got old really fast when tramming a 16" travel scale (150 turns to move 15").  Mine is a 150 ft. lb. Asong unit from All-Industrial Tool supply for under $350.
> 
> Bruce


On a posit note, you could give up your gym membership with the crank handle


----------



## wachuko

Janderso said:


> On a posit note, you could give up your gym membership with the crank handle


Nah... people start asking me weird questions when they see one arm with more muscle than the other one... I don't need that...


----------



## wachuko

Janderso said:


> The big problem with the small presses is the limited working range.
> Your average broach is 11” long


I got some broaches from  @mmcmdl that I bought when he was not paying attention... man, so difficult to buy stuff from that guy... .  I wished I lived closer to him so I could just walk up and get stuff...


----------



## FOMOGO

Will do. It will be a few weeks before I get to it. Bigger fish to fry at the moment. Mike

QUOTE:  Please start a tread on the installation.
I have been considering one for my Jet JTM-2 and I believe this same model should fit it as well.
Thanks!


----------



## lordbeezer

The one big arm cartoon hits home. I do lots of grinding paint off bed rails building pig cookers. My doc noticed my right pec is larger than the left. So x rays and a mammogram. Did the X-rays.


----------



## mmcmdl

wachuko said:


> I got some broaches from @mmcmdl that I bought when he was not paying attention... man, so difficult to buy stuff from that guy... . I wished I lived closer to him so I could just walk up and get stuff...


I've got so much going on these days , I don't know what's up or down !   I'll say this , if I end up retiring which it looks as if I will , They'll be a fire sale in Md .


----------



## mmcmdl

lordbeezer said:


> The one big arm cartoon hits home. I do lots of grinding paint off bed rails building pig cookers. My doc noticed my right pec is larger than the left. So x rays and a mammogram. Did the X-rays.


I love those cookers you make Mr. Beezer . I've been following your projects for 5 years now .


----------



## Janderso

wachuko said:


> Nah... people start asking me weird questions when they see one arm with more muscle than the other one... I don't need that...
> 
> View attachment 409673


Well done


----------



## wachuko

Got a GTD threading die set...


----------



## erikmannie

I bought these seven quality *non-junk* solid carbide end mills from forum member @mattthemuppet2 for $180 delivered. Most of these are new. The ones that are not new are very close to it.




All I can say is “Wow!”. There is a time change between him and I, but as soon as it is appropriate to text him tomorrow morning, I will be on the horn looking for more solid carbide end mills, but in smaller sizes.

Because I got 100% burned out at work, I voluntarily cut my hours back by a little over 10%, but I have one more good paycheck coming. I’m going to buy some steel from the local steel yard, and a lot of these endmills from @mattthemuppet2 , and after that I won’t be posting very much in this thread anymore because I need to pay down about $36,500 in consumer debt (100% of which was for tooling & equipment, as I always say).


----------



## Brento

@erikmannie we have all said that before. Yet we all end up buying stuff still anyways.  Matt is a real class A stand up guy. He has given me great deals for tooling as well. I have bought my fair share from him. Hoping he doesn’t get me hooked again when he buys another lot.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

woohoo! Glad they arrived safe and sound Erik, that was a very dense package  Happy to get them into the hands of someone who can use them. I have piles and piles of carbide end mills and drills, so make me a list and I'll work through it as I go. $17 of the purchase cost (10%) will go to God's Gods in Van Ormy, TX, same as any other sales on here or eBay from now on. The two dogs we just finished fostering (second one got adopted yesterday!) cost them $1500 overall for their parvo treatment, so they could do with a hand. I'm keeping a tally and once it gets to a nice round number I'll send them the funds


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Brento said:


> @erikmannie we have all said that before. Yet we all end up buying stuff still anyways.  Matt is a real class A stand up guy. He has given me great deals for tooling as well. I have bought my fair share from him. Hoping he doesn’t get me hooked again when he buys another lot.


thanks Brent, that's very kind. I still need to get to that steady rest I got from you. I'm trying not to buy any more auction lots, as I'm starting to get used to being able to move around my garage, sort of. But you know how it goes....


----------



## Brento

mattthemuppet2 said:


> thanks Brent, that's very kind. I still need to get to that steady rest I got from you. I'm trying not to buy any more auction lots, as I'm starting to get used to being able to move around my garage, sort of. But you know how it goes....


Oh i do seeing as i bought a new machine last week lol. And tons of projects on back order. Tmr morning i may start one so i can get my slitting saws out of the box and put away. That will help with some space.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

well I'm drinking a glass of wine and sorting out a box of extended length cobalt drills. Anybody need twenty 6" long #29 drills??


----------



## Dhal22

mattthemuppet2 said:


> woohoo! Glad they arrived safe and sound Erik, that was a very dense package  Happy to get them into the hands of someone who can use them. I have piles and piles of carbide end mills and drills, so make me a list and I'll work through it as I go. $17 of the purchase cost (10%) will go to God's Gods in Van Ormy, TX, same as any other sales on here or eBay from now on. The two dogs we just finished fostering (second one got adopted yesterday!) cost them $1500 overall for their parvo treatment, so they could do with a hand. I'm keeping a tally and once it gets to a nice round number I'll send them the funds




Watcha got?  I'm about ready to start assembling tooling for my mill purchase.....


----------



## Aukai

I'd like to know also....


----------



## Steve-F

Just a heads up! Killer deal for anyone in the San Diego area on Craigslist!









						LATHE & MILLING Machine (sold as pair) - tools - by owner - sale
					

Sold as Pair, Lathe and Milling Machine. The Lathe is a 9 ½” x 36” throw LOGAN flat belt v-ways lathe in very good condition with an abundance of tooling as shown. The Milling Machine is a ROTEX...



					sandiego.craigslist.org


----------



## wachuko

Steve-F said:


> Just a heads up! Killer deal for anyone in the San Diego area on Craigslist!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LATHE & MILLING Machine (sold as pair) - tools - by owner - sale
> 
> 
> Sold as Pair, Lathe and Milling Machine. The Lathe is a 9 ½” x 36” throw LOGAN flat belt v-ways lathe in very good condition with an abundance of tooling as shown. The Milling Machine is a ROTEX...
> 
> 
> 
> sandiego.craigslist.org


Wow!!!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Dhal22 said:


> Watcha got?  I'm about ready to start assembling tooling for my mill purchase.....





Aukai said:


> I'd like to know also....


Lots of carbide and Hss endmills. New and used for the first, used but good for the second. Same with carbide and cobalt drills (still sorting those out). Keyseat cutters, over/on/under reamer lots, taps up the wazoo. Loads of drill chucks that I need to clean and regrease. Lots of indexable endmills (mostly 1") and drills. Probably a bunch of other stuff I've forgotten about too


----------



## Brento

I actually do need a drill chuck lol. I have an arbor for one but i need second one for my lathe for production. I have a no.3 jacobs arbor to a mt2.


----------



## mmcmdl

mattthemuppet2 said:


> I'm trying not to buy any more auction lots, as I'm starting to get used to being able to move around my garage, sort of. But you know how it goes....


I know how it goes . 1 pound goes out , 3 pounds comes back .


----------



## mmcmdl

Here is what I'm buying Monday 

16" x 60" Republic lathe and tooling
13" x 40" Enco lathe and tooling
Chevralier VS head mill with 38 " table ( small ) and tooling
Peerless horizontal band saw ( large ) 
Jet vertical band saw 
Wilton vertical band saw
36" shear 
Grenard 3T arbor press
Dake 2T arbor press
Bench grinder ( everyone needs 5 )
Carbide grinder 
2 nice big Starrett bench vises
16" chop saw 


Whatever work benches , cabinets etc I can haul out before they go into the dumpster also .


----------



## jwmelvin

That’s a nice collection Dave.


----------



## lordbeezer

Got these chucks with a 9” Southbend. 0-3/8 keyless. Only markings made in Italy. Appx.6.25”3 jaw chuck. Only markings 3868. Any idea on either manufacturer? 3 jaw has 8 Allen head bolts thru backplate. 3 pinions.


----------



## Dhal22

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Lots of carbide and Hss endmills. New and used for the first, used but good for the second. Same with carbide and cobalt drills (still sorting those out). Keyseat cutters, over/on/under reamer lots, taps up the wazoo. Loads of drill chucks that I need to clean and regrease. Lots of indexable endmills (mostly 1") and drills. Probably a bunch of other stuff I've forgotten about too


 

I need something to start with.   Are you selling by the pound?


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Sorry all, this wasn't the right place for this, please see my for sale thread in the for sale section:


			https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/mattthemuppets-ebay-shoppe.97467/


----------



## Brento

I feel like we gotta see pictures of the garage to believe you. It may entice more people to buy.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

This is what it looked like 6 months ago, about 1/3 of that is left, give or take


----------



## Brento

Eh not to bad


----------



## mmcmdl

mattthemuppet2 said:


> This is what it looked like 6 months ago, about 1/3 of that is left, give or take


Rookie !


----------



## wachuko

I need some larger calipers… but most of them are stupid expensive…

Was able to get this one for 85.00 delivered home…. 13-14” not sure… Starrett 123




Still looking for one that is 24” but reasonably priced…


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> I need some larger calipers… but most of them are stupid expensive…
> 
> Was able to get this one for 85.00 delivered home…. 13-14” not sure… Starrett 123
> 
> View attachment 409939
> 
> 
> Still looking for one that is 24” but reasonably priced…











						Starrett 123EMZ-24 Master Vernier Caliper, 0-24"/0-600mm Range, .001"/0.02mm Graduation *USED/RECONDITIONED*
					

Item Description Range: 0-24"/0-600mm Graduation: .001"/0.02mm Accuracy: ±.0005" per foot Accuracy: ±.01mm per 300mm Half as many bar graduations as conventional single-vernier tools Easy to read Machine divided graduations Tight, smooth fitted slides No glare Starrett satin chrome finish Long...




					shop.idealprec.com
				












						Fowler 52-008-024-0 Extended Range Dial Caliper 0-24" Range .001" Graduation
					

Ideal Precision Range: 0-24" Graduation: .001" Accuracy: ±.003" Jaw Depth: 3.375" Depth rod .500" internal measuring nibs Dial hand completes one revolution per each .100", large dial—easy to read graduations Inverted covered rack prevents dirt accumulation in rack gear teeth. Self-contained...




					shop.idealprec.com
				












						Precision Brands 75104 Carbide Nib Jaw Vernier Caliper, 0-24" Range, .001" Graduation *USED/RECONDITIONED*
					

Item Description    Range: 0-24" Graduation: .001" Screw-type adjusting nut allows for fine measuring adjustments and lock nut holds measurements Fine tool steel construction Carbide tipped jaws Made in the United States  *Quality Used Item - professionally inspected, refurbished (if needed) and...




					shop.idealprec.com
				




there is more there, just have to look


----------



## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> Starrett 123EMZ-24 Master Vernier Caliper, 0-24"/0-600mm Range, .001"/0.02mm Graduation *USED/RECONDITIONED*
> 
> 
> Item Description Range: 0-24"/0-600mm Graduation: .001"/0.02mm Accuracy: ±.0005" per foot Accuracy: ±.01mm per 300mm Half as many bar graduations as conventional single-vernier tools Easy to read Machine divided graduations Tight, smooth fitted slides No glare Starrett satin chrome finish Long...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.idealprec.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fowler 52-008-024-0 Extended Range Dial Caliper 0-24" Range .001" Graduation
> 
> 
> Ideal Precision Range: 0-24" Graduation: .001" Accuracy: ±.003" Jaw Depth: 3.375" Depth rod .500" internal measuring nibs Dial hand completes one revolution per each .100", large dial—easy to read graduations Inverted covered rack prevents dirt accumulation in rack gear teeth. Self-contained...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.idealprec.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Precision Brands 75104 Carbide Nib Jaw Vernier Caliper, 0-24" Range, .001" Graduation *USED/RECONDITIONED*
> 
> 
> Item Description    Range: 0-24" Graduation: .001" Screw-type adjusting nut allows for fine measuring adjustments and lock nut holds measurements Fine tool steel construction Carbide tipped jaws Made in the United States  *Quality Used Item - professionally inspected, refurbished (if needed) and...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.idealprec.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there is more there, just have to look


My “stupid expensive” range is what you posted, hahahahahahha

Pretty sure I am out of touch with the reality of pricing for those calipers…. I was trying to find something below 195.00!!!


----------



## erikmannie

Horrifyingly expensive at $206.17 delivered, but you don’t see these so often in such a large size. Fingers crossed for quality HSS, keeping in mind that these are from India.


----------



## DavidR8

Not at all metal related but I’m super stoked to have picked up issues #1 through #161 of Fine Woodworking. All in like new condition. 
For the princely sum of $60


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> My “stupid expensive” range is what you posted, hahahahahahha
> 
> Pretty sure I am out of touch with the reality of pricing for those calipers…. I wa trying to find something below 195.00!!!


i got to


----------



## erikmannie

I just spent just over $800 at the local steel yard. I will post a picture once they are done cutting and shearing it. By the way, their massive shearing machine can shear up to 1/2” steel. Holy smokes!

I bought:
(1) Two 12” square, 3/8” thick plates, four lengths of 3/16” angle, and 6’ of 1 1/2” black pipe for a base. This base is for a welding fixture stand. It will live it’s life outside. I will do my smoky & spattery welding *outside* from now on.
(2) drop-in anchor bolts for the aforementioned base, with Grade 8 hardware.
(3) 9-1/2” square, 3/4” plate which will be used as an adapter for a CXA toolpost that goes on a milling machine table. Why put a toolpost on a milling machine table? For a toolpost crane which is needed to lift the heavy milling machine vise.
(4) 2” X 2”, 1/4” wall square tubing to be used to convert a fixed length welding fixture arm to a telescoping arm.
(5) 300 quantity 3” X 4”, .125” thick sheet to be used as welding coupons. They are using 3” bar to make these on the shear. They (only?) charged me $100 (1 hour) labor to make 300 coupons. I paid $326 out the door for 300 coupons, or $1.09/coupon.
(6) Some 1/2”-13 bolts, washers and nuts that fit my T-nuts for clamping things down on a milling machine table.
(7) 4 cuts on 1” thick plate that I brought down there. I don’t have a bandsaw!


----------



## wachuko

This one arrived just now….GTD 1/8”-1/4”




Found another one that goes from 1/4” to 1/2” and included some reamers… so bought it as well… 58.00 not super inexpensive but figured I will have the larger ones as well…


----------



## DAM 79

mmcmdl said:


> Here is what I'm buying Monday
> 
> 16" x 60" Republic lathe and tooling
> 13" x 40" Enco lathe and tooling
> Chevralier VS head mill with 38 " table ( small ) and tooling
> Peerless horizontal band saw ( large )
> Jet vertical band saw
> Wilton vertical band saw
> 36" shear
> Grenard 3T arbor press
> Dake 2T arbor press
> Bench grinder ( everyone needs 5 )
> Carbide grinder
> 2 nice big Starrett bench vises
> 16" chop saw
> 
> 
> Whatever work benches , cabinets etc I can haul out before they go into the dumpster also .





mmcmdl said:


> Here is what I'm buying Monday
> 
> 16" x 60" Republic lathe and tooling
> 13" x 40" Enco lathe and tooling
> Chevralier VS head mill with 38 " table ( small ) and tooling
> Peerless horizontal band saw ( large )
> Jet vertical band saw
> Wilton vertical band saw
> 36" shear
> Grenard 3T arbor press
> Dake 2T arbor press
> Bench grinder ( everyone needs 5 )
> Carbide grinder
> 2 nice big Starrett bench vises
> 16" chop saw
> 
> 
> Whatever work benches , cabinets etc I can haul out before they go into the dumpster also .


Was this shop in Maryland that closed or somewhat close ??


----------



## finsruskw

A shorty for use around the lathe and mill.
Should not get in the way as much I hope!


----------



## wachuko

Got a few more kits from @Doug Gray 









						Kits For The Home Shop Machinist/Tinkerer
					

Kits for the home shop machinist. Hi my name is Doug Gray thanks for stopping by my shop. I'm am the sole proprietor of D. Gray Drafting and Design. I lovingly create all the kits you see here in my shop. Everything from creating the drawing to assembling all the materials and packaging them up...



					d-gray-drafting-and-design.myshopify.com


----------



## Brento

Does he ever do deals with shipping?


----------



## wachuko

Brento said:


> Does he ever do deals with shipping?


@Doug Gray is a forum member... he should be able to answer that via private message.

I do not know unfortunately... I have been buying them individually... At least it is coming from Canada, even if shipping charges are higher than we are used to in the USA, it is not coming from Australia , now, having something shipped from there IS expensive!


----------



## Brento

I forgot how much shipping was from Hemmingway but i dont think that was a low price either.


----------



## wachuko

Brento said:


> I forgot how much shipping was from Hemmingway but i dont think that was a low price either.


Specially if they use DHL!!!


----------



## Doug Gray

Check out my "How to save on shipping" video.


----------



## erikmannie

I paid for this steel yesterday at the local steel yard. I went back today and got just a few more things, located hole locations out in the parking lot, and had them punch or drill 12 holes.

They did a fair amount of saw cuts in thick plate for me. When I was there this morning, the young man spent almost 2 hours sawing and drilling. The cashier was really nice and only charged me for one hour of labor, probably because I spent $920 there yesterday & today.

I bought a grease gun on the way home. The grease gun is to lube the back gears on the new milling machine.







The holes lined up A-okay:


----------



## WobblyHand

A couple of things arrived today, only one of which I ordered.  The first item was an over under reamer set 1/8-1/2".  Hope to use them for my kitchen cabinet project.  Got them from CME.  Hope they are ok.


The second item, which I didn't order, but showed up today anyways was a very gracious donation by an anonymous HM member.  I know the member's name, but this person wishes to remain anonymous.  That's ok.  My only requirement is to pass it forward (do a good deed for others) when the time arises.  I have accepted this requirement.  I can say I am tickled pink about receiving this, in more ways than one.  Not just getting this item, but the confidence and generosity of the donor is humbling.  Anyways, here is a picture of my newly de-crated 3 ton arbor press.  Looks like an initial project will be making a stand.  Need to make it sturdy enough not to tip over in use.  Anyways, woohoo!  Wow!  Still pinching myself, something like this has never happened to me!


----------



## mmcmdl

WobblyHand said:


> Looks like an initial project will be making a stand.


If you were only closer .   Actually , you are close ! ( thought you were down in Florida ) .


----------



## pontiac428

erikmannie said:


> ...probably because I spent $920 there yesterday & today.



I take it they wouldn't accept any coupons...


----------



## Just for fun

erikmannie said:


> The holes lined up A-okay:
> 
> View attachment 410061



What is the big heavy plate going to be used for?


----------



## WobblyHand

mmcmdl said:


> If you were only closer .   Actually , you are close ! ( thought you were down in Florida ) .


You have an arbor stand?  Is there anything you don't have squirreled away?  Space perhaps


----------



## Christianstark

Been doing projects in both imperial and metric. Bought 2 new mitutoyo digi micrometers today to cover 0-2” should arrive Thursday


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## erikmannie

Just for fun said:


> What is the big heavy plate going to be used for?


The 1” plates are two halves of a yet to be beveled weld test plate.

The 3/4” plate bolted to the milling machine table will house a CXA toolpost. This toolpost holds a Sky Hook toolpost crane that hoists the milling machine vise.

The 3/8” plates are for the base of an outdoor welding fixture stand that gets bolted to the concrete.


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> A couple of things arrived today, only one of which I ordered.  The first item was an over under reamer set 1/8-1/2".  Hope to use them for my kitchen cabinet project.  Got them from CME.  Hope they are ok.
> View attachment 410076
> 
> The second item, which I didn't order, but showed up today anyways was a very gracious donation by an anonymous HM member.  I know the member's name, but this person wishes to remain anonymous.  That's ok.  My only requirement is to pass it forward (do a good deed for others) when the time arises.  I have accepted this requirement.  I can say I am tickled pink about receiving this, in more ways than one.  Not just getting this item, but the confidence and generosity of the donor is humbling.  Anyways, here is a picture of my newly de-crated 3 ton arbor press.  Looks like an initial project will be making a stand.  Need to make it sturdy enough not to tip over in use.  Anyways, woohoo!  Wow!  Still pinching myself, something like this has never happened to me!
> View attachment 410078


Very nice that one of our members donated that.  Very cool.


----------



## mmcmdl

WobblyHand said:


> You have an arbor stand? Is there anything you don't have squirreled away? Space perhaps


Matter of fact . I do have a stand , as well as the press now .   I'll drag the stand home tomorrow and use it as a coffee table next to the firepit . Solid stainless .


----------



## WobblyHand

mmcmdl said:


> Matter of fact . I do have a stand , as well as the press now .   I'll drag the stand home tomorrow and use it as a coffee table next to the firepit . Solid stainless .


Seems like a waste of an arbor press stand, but very cool that it's stainless.  If it's surplus to your needs let me know, I'll come and get it.  Was the stand made from left over materials from a job?


----------



## mmcmdl

WobblyHand said:


> Seems like a waste of an arbor press stand, but very cool that it's stainless. If it's surplus to your needs let me know, I'll come and get it. Was the stand made from left over materials from a job?


This was a stand made for the arbor press . It is stainless . It has a scrap value but it's not on my target list . I'll grab it if I have room on the trailer .   FWIW . 10 of 1000s of $$$$$$ are being scrapped out . Material racks fill the warehouse and all will go into the dumpsters . It's a major waste but we can only do so much . My plant can't handle any more machines , racks , cabinets etc , either can my basements or garage . I buy what I can move and store . The money is going towards a company party after the move is completed .


----------



## 682bear

An ebay find...




...an Enco boring/ facing head with a 1 inch straight arbor and an R8 arbor. It was listed 'for parts' because the seller didn't have any way to test it for function.

I took a chance on it... and it seems to be in good condition. Everything works very smoothly, and it advances 0.005" per revolution. I don't know if the advance is adjustable or not... I doubt it.

I've used the Criterion boring/ facing heads a good bit at work, they are not adjustable for the advance... I've also used a big one, I think it was a Wolhaupter, maybe 9" diameter... it was adjustable.

-Bear


----------



## mmcmdl

I was watching this head on the bay just for a comparison .


----------



## Aukai

I was watching that one too...


----------



## mmcmdl

Aukai said:


> I was watching that one too...


So at least we know the shank is removable .


----------



## wachuko

I am soooo happy that I have to share...   Got a lot of the stuff that I ordered... and one item in particular just surprised the heck out of me.




The Starrett 123 Vernier Caliper (14”) with its box, is in like new condition!!!  Total amount paid for it, with shipping, was 86.00.  I am just so happy... I finally have a quality caliper... and long enough for some of my future projects.

Still hopeful that I can find a 24" caliper for a good price... anyway... more photos...







The order for the die set came with these as well... couple of reamers and a few taps




Hard to share, in photos, the massiveness of this tool... compared, of course, with the stuff that I have...




This is new... was running out of Dykem steel blue layout fluid...and wanted a quality edge finder (Starrett 827B)...





And this beauty, oh man.... pristine!!


----------



## mmcmdl

You really can't go wrong with the beam vernier calipers . Never need batteries , no dials and gears to mess up . They are as accurate as the users eyes .   You got a good looking set there . Funny , I mentioned this before , but up at Cabin Fever this year , the older beam types were twice the price of these digital / dial calipers .


----------



## Eyerelief

mmcmdl said:


> You really can't go wrong with the beam vernier calipers . Never need batteries , no dials and gears to mess up . They are as accurate as the users eyes .   You got a good looking set there . Funny , I mentioned this before , but up at Cabin Fever this year , the older beam types were twice the price of these digital / dial calipers .


I couldn’t agree more


----------



## wachuko

Eyerelief said:


> I couldn’t agree more
> View attachment 410334


That is what I want next...  search is on!  For something inexpensive... I do not want to pay some of the asking prices...


----------



## 682bear

Well... I'm vise poor now...

I met someone that had a few vises for sale... this afternoon I went for a look-see and came home with a few...

A 4 inch Wilton... an early 'Chicago' vise, with no date and a welded jaw insert...




Another 4 inch Wilton 'Schiller Park' dated 1961...




Yet another 4 inch Wilton 'Schiller Park' dated 1971...




And a Charles Parker #95 4½ inch...




The Parker is bigger and heavier than the Wiltons... and in pretty nice condition.

The seller had a Starrett vise that makes this Parker look like a toy... it wasn't for sale, though...

-Bear


----------



## woodchucker

I have a parker that I love as a vise. Those Wiltons can all use new jaws.  A little filing and they should look great.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

682bear said:


> ...an Enco boring/ facing head with a 1 inch straight arbor and an R8 arbor. It was listed 'for parts' because the seller didn't have any way to test it for function.
> 
> I took a chance on it... and it seems to be in good condition. Everything works very smoothly, and it advances 0.005" per revolution. I don't know if the advance is adjustable or not... I doubt it.
> 
> 
> -Bear


 Very nice, I have one just like that. I'm not entirely sure how it works - I think it faces in from the outside, but it's pretty neat. There should be one or two (probably 2 by the size) allen sockets in the knurled ring. Rotate them so the line is away from the shank and you increase the feed by 0.0025 (I think).


----------



## 682bear

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Very nice, I have one just like that. I'm not entirely sure how it works - I think it faces in from the outside, but it's pretty neat. There should be one or two (probably 2 by the size) allen sockets in the knurled ring. Rotate them so the line is away from the shank and you increase the feed by 0.0025 (I think).



Thanks- I'll tinker with it when I get a chance and see if I can figure it out...

-Bear


----------



## wachuko

682bear said:


> Well... I'm vise poor now...
> 
> I met someone that had a few vises for sale... this afternoon I went for a look-see and came home with a few...
> 
> A 4 inch Wilton... an early 'Chicago' vise, with no date and a welded jaw insert...
> 
> View attachment 410336
> 
> 
> Another 4 inch Wilton 'Schiller Park' dated 1961...
> 
> View attachment 410337
> 
> 
> Yet another 4 inch Wilton 'Schiller Park' dated 1971...
> 
> View attachment 410338
> 
> 
> And a Charles Parker #95 4½ inch...
> 
> View attachment 410339
> 
> 
> The Parker is bigger and heavier than the Wiltons... and in pretty nice condition.
> 
> The seller had a Starrett vise that makes this Parker look like a toy... it wasn't for sale, though...
> 
> -Bear


You are vise rich!!   Not poor…. Maybe wallet poor, but who cares!!!   What a great bunch!!!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

682bear said:


> Thanks- I'll tinker with it when I get a chance and see if I can figure it out...
> 
> -Bear


I have a scratchy copy of a paper manual if you'd like it. Send me a pm with your email address and I'll send it over.


----------



## matthewsx

682bear said:


> An ebay find...
> 
> View attachment 410265
> 
> 
> ...an Enco boring/ facing head with a 1 inch straight arbor and an R8 arbor. It was listed 'for parts' because the seller didn't have any way to test it for function.
> 
> I took a chance on it... and it seems to be in good condition. Everything works very smoothly, and it advances 0.005" per revolution. I don't know if the advance is adjustable or not... I doubt it.
> 
> I've used the Criterion boring/ facing heads a good bit at work, they are not adjustable for the advance... I've also used a big one, I think it was a Wolhaupter, maybe 9" diameter... it was adjustable.
> 
> -Bear


I have one of those, only the R8 shank though. Mine is in mint condition.


----------



## slodat

Huot SuperScoot for CAT40 tooling for the Haas. It’s incredibly well built.


----------



## Mutt

I scored this jewel at a estate sale,. $15 !!!!! Works perfect,, easy to use.  I found the owner's book in a wooden box but no wheel facer. I went back to the sale and looked around for it, but no luck. So I went back to the shop and machined one out of a piece of 1 1/8" cold roll. The new diamond point was only $11.50, so I got only $26.50 in the whole machine.  This thing is a breeze to operate. Also bought a brand new Snap-on metric snap and die set for $30 from the same estate sale. It lists for $300


----------



## erikmannie

I have an import R8 fly cutter that houses 3/8” tools. I also have import 3/8” LH turning tool bits, as well as import 3/8” indexable shanks with imported carbide inserts, but…

I am making every effort to buy larger, higher quality tooling for my big mill, so I picked up the USA made 3/4” shank, 3” diameter indexable fly cutter found in these links (PN KT300-34):





__





						Page 152 - Machine Shop Supplies
					

Page 152 - Machine Shop Supplies



					www.missouricarbide.com
				




and









						3" Cutting Diam, 3/4" Shank Diam, TPG 32 Insert, Indexable Fly Cutter KT300-34
					

3" Cutting Diam, 3/4" Shank Diam, TPG 32 Insert, Indexable Fly Cutter




					www.govets.com
				







You will pay about 5 times as much for USA made, so I hope that it is worth it!

I won’t have money to buy inserts for a week. Does anybody want to recommend and/or link to quality TPG321 inserts for using this on mild steel? I am definitely one to make shallow cuts.

The item description had this:




Edit: I see that the last digit there (i.e. 1,2, 3 or 6) is the corner radius in 64ths of an inch.


----------



## extropic

@erikmannie

The last digit is the corner radius (in 64ths of an inch for ANSI inserts).

Carbidedepot.com has many useful charts in their Technical Information section.






						Insert Designation Chart - provides ANSI and ISO designation code definitions for carbide insert shapes, relief angles, tolerances, chipbreaker codes, hole types, size values, thickness values, radius values, wiper lead angle, wiper clearance angle, 
					

Carbide Insert Designation Chart



					www.carbidedepot.com


----------



## erikmannie

extropic said:


> @erikmannie
> 
> The last digit is the corner radius (in 64ths of an inch for ANSI inserts).
> 
> Carbidedepot.com has many useful charts in their Technical Information section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Insert Designation Chart - provides ANSI and ISO designation code definitions for carbide insert shapes, relief angles, tolerances, chipbreaker codes, hole types, size values, thickness values, radius values, wiper lead angle, wiper clearance angle,
> 
> 
> Carbide Insert Designation Chart
> 
> 
> 
> www.carbidedepot.com


So if the corner radius on a carbide insert is .016”, what is the minimum DOC?

One nice thing about HSS is that you can dial in a tiny DOC.


----------



## extropic

erikmannie said:


> So if the corner radius on a carbide insert is .016”, what is the minimum DOC?


 62.3876     

Kidding aside, please restate your question.


----------



## mmcmdl

erikmannie said:


> So if the corner radius on a carbide insert is .016”, what is the minimum DOC?
> 
> One nice thing about HSS is that you can dial in a tiny DOC.


The radius has nothing to do with DOC .  Where the radii does matter is on CNC lathes , and that's where cutter comp is used . Plug in the radius and the machine does all the computing instantly .


----------



## erikmannie

extropic said:


> 62.3876
> 
> Kidding aside, please restate your question.


If you are using a carbide insert with a .016” radius, and you want to dial in as small of a DOC as possible, what is the smallest DOC that you can dial in?


----------



## mmcmdl

Dial it in whatever you want , the radius does not have anything to do with depth of cut .


----------



## extropic

erikmannie said:


> If you are using a carbide insert with a .016” radius, and you want to dial in as small of a DOC as possible, what is the smallest DOC that you can dial in?


I don't think the corner radius has anything to do with the minimum DOC.
Minimum DOC is effected by many factors (workpiece material/hardness/strength, machine stiffness/condition, cutting edge material/sharpness to name a few), but corner radius isn't a primary consideration, IMO.

Cutting tool corner radius is a primary consideration regarding surface finish, tool pressure and fillet radii.


----------



## C-Bag

In an effort to caulk all the nooks and crannies of the Tetris garage I had some time to do some antique shopping with my honey and stopped at a garage sale on the way that looked promising. Turns out the guy’s dad was an old school electronics tech and was getting rid of his stash. There were 4 great old style bin units full of electronics parts and it would have been criminal to buy them only to dump the parts so I passed. Lots of other cool stuff but the one that caught my eye was a little Lortone 3a tumbler. Always wanted a small parts tumbler and all he wanted was $1, sold! Next stop was a big antique store we check once every couple of years. All the tools were waaay over priced but outside sitting on a rack in the weather was a pretty nice old case that looked like it would be the perfect size for my air bearing flute cutter. $20, sold! Case fits perfect, just needs a couple of spots of the cover glued down and maybe some side handles. The tumbler I was surprised to find out on eBay it can be an expensive thing, whodathunk?


----------



## IamNotImportant

struck a deal on this.. sending the moola over night to a friend close by, he is going to pick it up for me.. we'll meet in the middle and i will bring it the rest of the way home..


----------



## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> struck a deal on this.. sending the moola over night to a friend close by, he is going to pick it up for me.. we'll meet in the middle and i will bring it the rest of the way home..
> 
> View attachment 410655


Congratulations!!


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> Congratulations!!


thanks.. i appreciate that..


----------



## Eyerelief

Met a fella that bought 13 pallets of big box store display items, tools. I bought this miter saw. 4 years old but never plugged in.   This 12” saw came with a dewalt blade and 2 60 volt batteries, all still sealed in new packages. Batteries are dated 2022. Set the blade aside and put my Freud blade on it. 
Was covered in pretty serious dust but cleaned up great.  Not bad for $400


----------



## WobblyHand

Got my money back from the over under reamer set that was over and nominal.  6 out of the 7 under reamers were at nominal, not 0.001" under size.  Good to have received a full refund including shipping.  

Also arriving today, an L&I 533.2485 6 flute straight reamer.  And guess what, it is actually _on size_.  Only took four tries to get an on size reamer that I ordered.  Of course I had to test the reamer.  The pins were an interference fit to the reamed hole, as designed.  
Slowly, I am learning a lesson here...


----------



## kiwi_007

Well, I finally had some tools arrive that I purchased over the last couple of months, freight isn't as quick as it used to be.




VIS micrometers and case, 75-100, 100-125 & 125-150mm, poor pictures in the auction and only showed the 3 micrometers which cost me US$45 and when they arrived I wondered what was in the package, it seems I got standards, and the wooden case. Now I've got a full set of VIS metric micrometers 0-150mm




Also had this Starrett set arrive S906M, which is new complete with the Starrett cardboard box, bargain price also




Sometimes metric tools are too cheap to pass by US$5 buy now and it has carbide faces



This also has carbide faces and vernier scale 0.002mm




Also added a Fowler Girod-Tast indicator to my collection




And a USA Starrett 709MA indicator for my collection also




I've been looking for a set of these Moore & Wright small hole guages for sometime, but haven't wanted to pay the prices most have been asking, lucked onto this set for a good price.

Some might think I've got a problem, Is there a support group for toolaholics?


----------



## 682bear

kiwi_007 said:


> Some might think I've got a problem, Is there a support group for toolaholics?



The support group is right here...

-Bear


----------



## woodchucker

kiwi_007 said:


> Well, I finally had some tools arrive that I purchased over the last couple of months, freight isn't as quick as it used to be.
> 
> View attachment 410945
> 
> 
> VIS micrometers and case, 75-100, 100-125 & 125-150mm, poor pictures in the auction and only showed the 3 micrometers which cost me US$45 and when they arrived I wondered what was in the package, it seems I got standards, and the wooden case. Now I've got a full set of VIS metric micrometers 0-150mm
> 
> View attachment 410946
> 
> 
> Also had this Starrett set arrive S906M, which is new complete with the Starrett cardboard box, bargain price also
> 
> View attachment 410947
> 
> 
> Sometimes metric tools are too cheap to pass by US$5 buy now and it has carbide faces
> 
> View attachment 410948
> 
> This also has carbide faces and vernier scale 0.002mm
> 
> View attachment 410949
> 
> 
> Also added a Fowler Girod-Tast indicator to my collection
> 
> View attachment 410950
> 
> 
> And a USA Starrett 709MA indicator for my collection also
> 
> View attachment 410951
> 
> 
> I've been looking for a set of these Moore & Wright small hole guages for sometime, but haven't wanted to pay the prices most have been asking, lucked onto this set for a good price.
> 
> Some might think I've got a problem, Is there a support group for toolaholics?


seem like you really lucked out on some of those prices.
 
enjoy your booty of high quality tools. Used is awesome, new life to excellent tools.


----------



## Dhal22

682bear said:


> The support group is right here...
> 
> -Bear




You got that right.


----------



## kiwi_007

Over the years I've managed to get some real bargains on ebay



KCM 8" 6 jaw adjust tru chuck, under US$80, when it arrived it looked like new on the outside, but the inside was full of silt like it'd been in a flood. Cleaned up it's like new inside and out now.





6" Quad vise  Couldn't pass this up with the buy now it had




Pratt Burnerd 10" 6 jaw adjust tru, new with a few handling marks, I bought 2 like this and sold one, the one I kept owes me $0
That was about 10 years ago.




Ifanger quick retract threading tool, these are awesome for threading to a shoulder





My $300 surface grinder although freight from Ca to NZ added another NZ$850 to the purchase price. It needs another motor but apart from that it's actually in good condition.


----------



## woodchucker

kiwi_007 said:


> Over the years I've managed to get some real bargains on ebay
> View attachment 411076
> 
> 
> KCM 8" 6 jaw adjust tru chuck, under US$80, when it arrived it looked like new on the outside, but the inside was full of silt like it'd been in a flood. Cleaned up it's like new inside and out now.
> 
> View attachment 411077
> 
> 
> 
> 6" Quad vise  Couldn't pass this up with the buy now it had
> 
> View attachment 411079
> 
> 
> Pratt Burnerd 10" 6 jaw adjust tru, new with a few handling marks, I bought 2 like this and sold one, the one I kept owes me $0
> That was about 10 years ago.
> 
> View attachment 411080
> 
> 
> Ifanger quick retract threading tool, these are awesome for threading to a shoulder
> 
> View attachment 411081
> 
> 
> 
> My $300 surface grinder although freight from Ca to NZ added another NZ$850 to the purchase price. It needs another motor but apart from that it's actually in good condition.


I bet you're just looking for a

but you really deserve this.


----------



## erikmannie

Another vacation week popped up on the books for me. We are having such an acute staffing shortage at UPS that we can cash these out on the spot. It was an easy decision to cash out this last vacation week and spend it all on tooling.

After looking online for almost 3 hours, I bought a Criterion 3” boring head kit. The boring head has been well taken care of, but some of the boring bars need resharpening on a green wheel. It was important to me that it had a quality shank.


----------



## erikmannie

I had enough left over for a stub mill & a thick HSS 45° single angle cutter. After another 3 hours of research online, I settled on this combo:









						BISON 7070010 R8 Shank Dia. / 1-1/4" Arbor Dia. / 2" Length Sale, Reviews. - Opentip
					





					www.opentip.com
				







TMX stub mills only go up to 1” diameter. They used to make a 1-1/4”, but they discontinued it.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Bought an MHC 18*12" granite surface plate as part of a lot at a local auction recently. They described it as a piece of granite, which I guess it is  Came with some beautifully made fixtures too.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Turns out the previous owner and the maker of the fixtures was a tool and die guy who lived to the ripe old age of 81. Feels both special and sad to own some of his stuff


----------



## Dhal22

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Turns out the previous owner and the maker of the fixtures was a tool and die guy who lived to the ripe old age of 81. Feels both special and sad to own some of his stuff




It is sad to buy tools with someone's name on them,  knowing they've passed on and kids sell them.   I've looked up names on tools and found their obituary online,  I lift a beer in their name and tell them thanks for the tools.


----------



## extropic

I have also felt some sadness, but I think it's when the tools have been neglected and allowed to deteriorate.

In a case like Matt's, where the tools look to be useful, in good condition and well made by a professional, keeping them alive (in service) can be seen as appreciating the craftsmanship of the maker. Silver lining.

Very nice find.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought two NOS Criterion 3/4” shank, 3-1/8" OAL stubby carbide boring bars:


----------



## WhyW8

Well, it was actually last Saturdays purchase.  
Logan 11"- taper tool, milling attachment, collets, full set of metric gears, reamers, tool post grinder and lots of tooling. Could not be happier.


----------



## extropic

@WhyW8 

I think they call that a "package deal". Very nice find.


----------



## extropic

@mattthemuppet2

Out of curiosity, I Googled Jerry Hulse.

Bingo.





__





						Jerry D. Hulse Obituary
					

September 13, 1940 - October 12, 2021, Jerry D. Hulse passed away on October 12, 2021 in Ingleside, Texas. Funeral Home ...




					www.tributearchive.com


----------



## mattthemuppet2

that's the guy. I'd be proud to have an obituary like that.


----------



## AGCB97

extropic said:


> @mattthemuppet2
> 
> Out of curiosity, I Googled Jerry Hulse.
> 
> Bingo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jerry D. Hulse Obituary
> 
> 
> September 13, 1940 - October 12, 2021, Jerry D. Hulse passed away on October 12, 2021 in Ingleside, Texas. Funeral Home ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.tributearchive.com


Replying to a single person in this way is like talking behind the back of all other members. When we use the @name, as in this post, It is very hard to search for the other members comment so we know what's being referred to. Please use the 'quote'  option so others can be a part too. If you just want to reply privately to the other member then use the 'start a conversation' .

Bryan! Some instruction would be helpful to all.

Sorry but I like this forum and I also like EASY.

Thanks
Aaron


----------



## WhyW8

extropic said:


> @WhyW8
> 
> I think they call that a "package deal". Very nice find.


Yeah it was a good package deal.  

Funny, I started out that day to just go out and spend 3-$500 and purchase some good, but used measuring tools (dial, test, micrometers or other goodies) when I received a CL notification of a new ad for a lathe.  When I saw the posting my mind started running, boy that looks like a smoking deal.  I just had to hold off on my original task for the day and drive 1 hour away to take a look ---- boy I was glad I did


----------



## extropic

AGCB97 said:


> snip>



Interesting complaint Aaron.

Since my reply is in plain view, It's not behind anybody's back.

FYI, in reply #9027, @mattthemuppet2 posted that he had purchases some shop items. The pictures included some shop made tools that were marked with the name "Jerry Hulse". The name was clearly visible in a picture, but not mentioned in the text, so one had to be interested (paying attention) to wonder if any more info about Jerry could be found.

You see Aaron, I "Watch" this thread. I don't usually reply here, but Matt's buy was special to me. I digress.
I don't know if you didn't see reply #9027, didn't notice or care about the markings "Jerry Hulse" or exactly why you didn't make an instant connection.

Come to think of it, I use the @ thing for a couple of reasons. 1) it's easy 2) It saves page space (and bytes) by not reproducing the previous/referenced post.

It's more work for me, but I could use Quote, then edit out all the text and pictures (as I've done in this reply).

The problem is, that method is less EASY for me. What a dilemma.

I wonder how many other users are distressed by the use of @? I think I'll start a poll.


----------



## Firstram

extropic said:


> Interesting complaint Aaron.
> I wonder how many other users are distressed by the use of @? I think I'll start a poll.


0.0005, I don't have a Tenths indicator yet...


----------



## Dhal22

extropic said:


> Interesting complaint Aaron.
> 
> Since my reply is in plain view, It's not behind anybody's back.
> 
> FYI, in reply #9027, @mattthemuppet2 posted that he had purchases some shop items. The pictures included some shop made tools that were marked with the name "Jerry Hulse". The name was clearly visible in a picture, but not mentioned in the text, so one had to be interested (paying attention) to wonder if any more info about Jerry could be found.
> 
> You see Aaron, I "Watch" this thread. I don't usually reply here, but Matt's buy was special to me. I digress.
> I don't know if you didn't see reply #9027, didn't notice or care about the markings "Jerry Hulse" or exactly why you didn't make an instant connection.
> 
> Come to think of it, I use the @ thing for a couple of reasons. 1) it's easy 2) It saves page space (and bytes) by not reproducing the previous/referenced post.
> 
> It's more work for me, but I could use Quote, then edit out all the text and pictures (as I've done in this reply).
> 
> The problem is, that method is less EASY for me. What a dilemma.
> 
> I wonder how many other users are distressed by the use of @? I think I'll start a poll.



So I usually just hit reply as often I want people to see what I was replying too,  including sometimes snipping out unnecessary wording. 

I need to understand why the @ option is easier.


----------



## extropic

Dhal22 said:


> So I usually just hit reply as often I want people to see what I was replying too,  including sometimes snipping out unnecessary wording.
> 
> *I need to understand why the @ option is easier.*


Because when I made the reply, there had been additional replies and the thread had moved on to the next page. It was easier for me to use @, rather than backtrack to Quote a previous reply.

I addressed my reply to @mattthemuppet2 because he was the new owners of the tools and I wanted to call the new information to his attention.
I didn't consider whether or not other readers would be able to connect the dots.

If someone needs to discuss the @ vs Quote issue further with me, 'start a conversation'.

Lets get back to 'What Did You Buy Today'.


----------



## IamNotImportant

So i went to get my mill yesterday, had to drive from East TN to Mount Morris PA.. whereby i met a friend whom picked it up for me and brought it to me there, we transferred the trailer to me and i brought it back from there to the house.. today, I will be trying to get it into the garage.


----------



## wachuko

Larger caliper arrived.  Great condition. 




Engraving from previous owner


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> Larger caliper arrived.  Great condition.
> 
> View attachment 411650
> 
> 
> Engraving from previous owner
> 
> View attachment 411651


----------



## IamNotImportant

well i have it off the trailer.. good thing i got in place to protect it from the rain 


	

		
			
		

		
	
It rained the whole time while i was trying to get it in place. Which i am glad of, cuz it is good for business


----------



## IamNotImportant

Here is the tools that came with it


----------



## IamNotImportant

i believe that i am going to switch out the scales for the DRO from glass to magnetic..


----------



## woodchucker

IamNotImportant said:


> i believe that i am going to switch out the scales for the DRO from glass to magnetic.


why bother. Use them until ..... 
Are they in the way?
The glass scales are good quality usually. 
The only reason to replace is they :
eat up room​they are broken​you can't keep them clean​​save your money and put it to something you need now.
just some advice... not an edict.


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> why bother. Use them until .....
> Are they in the way?
> The glass scales are good quality usually.
> The only reason to replace is they :
> eat up room​they are broken​you can't keep them clean​​save your money and put it to something you need now.
> just some advice... not an edict.


i have considered it, the leaving it alone. there are some other things i need.. like a DRO on the lathe. 
This is the DRO kit that came on with the Mill.. I was considering upgrading the system and then move this one to the lathe with new scales





						PM 2 Axis Mill DRO – 14×31 Inch Scales – Precision Matthews Machinery Co.
					






					www.precisionmatthews.com


----------



## IamNotImportant

i need to get some pin gauges.


----------



## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> i need to get some pin gauges.


Yeah, me too…but it is like you have to buy three sets to have a decent range of sizes…

Also want a broach kit…

And, and, and…


----------



## kiwi_007

IamNotImportant said:


> i have considered it, the leaving it alone. there are some other things i need.. like a DRO on the lathe.
> This is the DRO kit that came on with the Mill.. I was considering upgrading the system and then move this one to the lathe with new scales
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PM 2 Axis Mill DRO – 14×31 Inch Scales – Precision Matthews Machinery Co.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.precisionmatthews.com


Is the readout suitable for a lathe as the link takes you to a dro system that is Mill specific


----------



## IamNotImportant

kiwi_007 said:


> Is the readout suitable for a lathe as the link takes you to a dro system that is Mill specific


i have not delved into it yet if i can.. will look around this evening.. but yeah.. i will have to see


----------



## IamNotImportant

kiwi_007 said:


> Is the readout suitable for a lathe as the link takes you to a dro system that is Mill specific


just looked at the manual, appears it can be used on the lathe


----------



## Brento

wachuko said:


> Yeah, me too…but it is like you have to buy three sets to have a decent range of sizes…
> 
> Also want a broach kit…
> 
> And, and, and…


There is a nice priced broach kit on Amazon that Blondiehacks uses that looks nice to start out with. It is Accusize brand but if you dont do a lot it is prob a nice start.


----------



## Firstram

wachuko said:


> Engraving from previous owner
> 
> View attachment 411651


I might be the odd man out but, I like tools with previous owners marks. To me it feels like keeping the spirit alive!


----------



## extropic

Firstram said:


> I might be the odd man out but, I like tools with previous owners marks. To me it feels like keeping the spirit alive!


 I don't think you're the only one.

By the very professional, large and clear way that Matt's new tools are marked I think we know that Mr. Hulse was proud of his work and had reason to be.


----------



## Dhal22

Firstram said:


> I might be the odd man out but, I like tools with previous owners marks. To me it feels like keeping the spirit alive!



I tip my hat or beer or mentally say thanks to the prior owner for letting me use his tool.


----------



## NCjeeper

wachuko said:


> Yeah, me too…but it is like you have to buy *SEVEN* sets to have a decent range of sizes…
> 
> Also want a broach kit…
> 
> And, and, and…


Fixed it for you.


----------



## wachuko

Brento said:


> There is a nice priced broach kit on Amazon that Blondiehacks uses that looks nice to start out with. It is Accusize brand but if you dont do a lot it is prob a nice start.


I saw her video today and added that kit to the wish list… but before that I was looking at some used Dumont sets…

Would that be a better option???


----------



## Larry$

IamNotImportant said:


> i need to get some pin gauges.


I bought a 3 box set a couple of years ago. They have proved to be more useful than I had expected. When I got them I checked to see how accurate they were. Pretty much dead on. I bought the minus set. .0000 to -.0002" by .001 increments. 
011 to .500" means I can measure all those sizes plus up to .999" hole sizes to an accuracy of .001`". Used in a collet chuck to check centering. Used on the mill to position in an existing hole.


----------



## Brento

wachuko said:


> I saw her video today and added that kit to the wish list… but before that I was looking at some used Dumont sets…
> 
> Would that be a better option???


Well Dumont is a much better brand if i am not mistaken. But in the case of not needing a broach that often myself. The Accusize brand would prob be more then capable. I did find that Accusize has a bigger set as well but was also a lot more money.


----------



## Larry$

Brento said:


> I did find that Accusize has a bigger set as well but was also a lot more money.


A few years ago I bought the smaller Accusize set. It's been fine for my occasional use. Only a couple of times I needed a different size. Used the closest size in the broach set and finished it with the hand ground tool on the mill. Before I got the broach set I had done a few on the lathe. Any thing of much size at all seemed like I was putting a lot of wear on the lathe. I've tried filing them, wouldn't want anyone to see the result even though it worked.


----------



## Weldingrod1

Not really a purchase... a sweet Father's Day present 






Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk


----------



## WhyW8

Small Handheld Milwaukee Deep Cut Band Saw w/table


----------



## wachuko

Got myself a few things from @mattthemuppet2 !

Reamers, drill bits, taps, end mills…


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> Got myself a few things from @mattthemuppet2 !
> 
> Reamers, drill bits, taps, end mills…


Hmm, are you my shadow?   Spent a little on the same with @mattthemuppet2 ! Also some chamfer mills.


----------



## extropic

I'm posting this because I think these are the best 'tooth brush' size stainless bristle scratch brushes on the market and the price is right.
I received my order of 20 ea today. That's more than a lifetime supply for me.

The most important feature is that the tufts of bristles are stitched into the handle, with SS wire.
You can see the stitching in the third photo. These bristles are secure.
The handle is laminated wood and it will delaminate if left to soak in the solvent tank. For that application, I just wrap the handle in electrical tape.
Shrink sleeve would be perfect too.

If you buy 20, they're about $3 each including Tax, S&H. I was so pleased to find them at that price, I didn't even use the 'Make an Offer'. Maybe you can get a better price.
I have no relationship with the seller.









						Gordon Brush,# 15SS - CURVED HANDLE SS SCRATCH BRUSH-3 ROWS- 7-3/4" LONG(10/pkg)  | eBay
					

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Gordon Brush,# 15SS - CURVED HANDLE SS SCRATCH BRUSH-3 ROWS- 7-3/4" LONG(10/pkg) at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



					www.ebay.com


----------



## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> Hmm, are you my shadow?   Spent a little on the same with @mattthemuppet2 ! Also some chamfer mills.


Yes! Got some chamfer mills as well!!


----------



## wachuko

Well… pulled the trigger on this set…


----------



## mmcmdl

Company just messaged me to come pick up a Hardinge lathe .


----------



## wachuko

mmcmdl said:


> Company just messaged me to come pick up a Hardinge lathe .


----------



## mmcmdl

Ain't nothing free .


----------



## wachuko

mmcmdl said:


> Ain't nothing free .


I thought, since they were closing... and sold most of it... it was some leftover equipment they were just giving to you... 

Shattered dreams baby... shattered dreams...


----------



## JRaut

Been keeping a look out for one of these Moore centering scopes for a couple years now.

Finally found one, and I paid next to nothing for it!

Beautiful condition. Someone before me took the time to make a much-more-useful 1/2" arbor for it, rather than the stock arbor for a Moore jig borer or grinder.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Got this in the mail, thought that i was getting AXA.. my bad.. look it's a CXA.. don't need it.. anyone wanna trade some AXA for it..


----------



## mmcmdl

wachuko said:


> I thought, since they were closing... and sold most of it... it was some leftover equipment they were just giving to you...


Not exactly . I've bought out 3 of their plants now . I give them more than the dealers would give them because I know the history of the machines . They know I'll get the stuff out in time and try to do it safely . ( somewhat )  They are still running a few lines and outsiders are not welcome to see the process also , so it works out well on both ends .  And , they can now throw one hell of a party for the workers on me !


----------



## FOMOGO

Picked up a few thing off FBMP. Got all the hand tools for $25, and the old 7" Milwaukee grinder for $30. Just the 10" Knipex Is $34 on Amazon.


----------



## Larry42

kiwi_007 said:


> Some might think I've got a problem


You do have a problem. The problem is: You keep getting the deals and leaving me out in the cold.


----------



## woodchucker

Larry42 said:


> You do have a problem. The problem is: You keep getting the deals and leaving me out in the cold.


that's because you live in Nebraska, it gets cold there.


----------



## Dave Smith

I brought my $1 auction purchase home today along with two nice 20" HSS resharpened paper cutter blades for $5.
I made out like a bandit cause the dollar item is a super heavy duty floor model electric and hyd  hollow drill machine. I tried it out on 1/4" thick 50 gal plasiic barrel lid with a 1/4" hollow bit---it made three perfect holes very easy. I figure it would also work good on uhmw and maybe rubber. I know it was made for drilling paper but machines always have good other uses for creative minds.  it came with 6 sharp hollow bits in several sizes and two carbide bit sharpeners. I know I can easily use the hydraulics for other projects by putting a couple quick disconnects and hyd hoses on the unit.---my head is spinning now with all the capabilities!!!
and it only cost a dollar. I need to find out the spindle taper so I can make more gadgets for it besides the drill bits--for sure I can make adapters for some of my small drill chucks. for those interested it is a century paper drill machine.
Dave


----------



## extropic

Dave Smith said:


> snip>



Have you heard the axiom "No pictures, it didn't happen"?


----------



## IamNotImportant

extropic said:


> Have you heard the axiom "No pictures, it didn't happen"?


----------



## Larry42

woodchucker said:


> that's because you live in Nebraska, it gets cold there.


Only in the winter!


----------



## IamNotImportant

Larry42 said:


> Only in the winter!


Move to Alaska they said, it is warm an sunny for 6 months they said!


----------



## Dave Smith

OK ----here's the pictures to prove it happened, enjoy---and I got 7 extra bits besides the one in machine. it is a Chalenger instead of century.
Dave


----------



## IamNotImportant

i hate thumbnails.. just sayin!


----------



## Larry42

For those that have never been where you can go for a walk in fresh snow, on a calm,  sunny, 25°F day: it is warm enough for just a sweat shirt, sparkling clean snow that muffles all the noise. It doesn't get any better. A walk at night with a full moon makes it almost as bright as day.  It's magic, skip the crowds. (Also skip the nights when it is zero and the wind is howling across the plains! That's when you curl up by the fire with a hot spiced wine.)


----------



## Dave Smith

IamNotImportant said:


> i hate thumbnails.. just sayin!


I'm positive this machine could remove them for you. just sayin!


----------



## Larry42

IamNotImportant said:


> i hate thumbnails.. just sayin!


?? Just click on the first one and it pops to large size, then click on the > arrow to step through all or click on the thumb nails at the bottom of the screen.   ???


----------



## extropic

Thumbnails are great! Everything loads faster for those of us with slow connections.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Dave Smith said:


> I'm positive this machine could remove them for you. just sayin!


----------



## Dhal22

woodchucker said:


> that's because you live in Nebraska, it gets cold there.



There's still snow on the ground there I bet.


----------



## woodchucker

Larry42 said:


> For those that have never been where you can go for a walk in fresh snow, on a calm,  sunny, 25°F day: it is warm enough for just a sweat shirt, sparkling clean snow that muffles all the noise. It doesn't get any better. A walk at night with a full moon makes it almost as bright as day.  It's magic, skip the crowds. (Also skip the nights when it is zero and the wind is howling across the plains! That's when you curl up by the fire with a hot spiced wine.)


I know. I have been to Nebraska quite a few times, in the summer. My son did in line speed skating before he did ice speed skating. The nationals were held in both Lincoln and Omaha depending on the years.  nice towns.   I would like to visit PAWN shops for tools.. we were walking around and I asked someone where there was a PAWN shop, I was with my wife.. he almost fell dead on the pavement. I said PAWN shop.. he must have thought PORN shop.. he directed us to the middle of nothing.  I know next to the arena was a PAWN shop and I visited it, and he wanted new prices, so I went looking for others when I met him on the street. I swear he had  a heart attack..


----------



## woodchucker

Dhal22 said:


> There's still snow on the ground there I bet.


actually it's quite hot and humid in the summer. 
and since it's quite flat... no mountains with snow.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Just plugged in at random, the post may be out of place. Sorry. . . 


IamNotImportant said:


> Move to Alaska they said, it is warm an sunny for 6 months they said!


I don't remember the year, I'm gettin' old, when Jimmy Carter was inaugurated as president. The weather in Alaska, Kodiak I think, was warmer and more comfortable than Washington, DC. Almost shirt sleeve weather.
.


----------



## WelderJosh

I bought a South Bend 13 today for $505.00 .  Saved it from being part of a high school demolition.


----------



## WhyW8

WelderJosh said:


> I bought a South Bend 13 today for $505.00 .  Saved it from being part of a high school demolition.


Nice Save, and a great price at that!


----------



## wachuko

Goodies arrived...  thank you @mattthemuppet2 !!


----------



## 682bear

An ebay find... $10 plus shipping...







-Bear


----------



## wachuko

682bear said:


> An ebay find... $10 plus shipping...
> 
> View attachment 412093
> 
> 
> View attachment 412092
> 
> 
> -Bear


I have a similar one!!!  Let me take a photo!  I have now moved to a soldering station with better/variable temperature control.  Seldom reach for that one... 

Well... I have partial proof, lol, of course I can't find it now... hahahahahaha




On other news... got a few of these to install on the box of the 24" used caliper I recently got... it was missing both...


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> I have a similar one!!!  Let me take a photo!  I have now moved to a soldering station with better/variable temperature control.  Seldom reach for that one...
> 
> Well... I have partial proof, lol, of course I can't find it now... hahahahahaha
> 
> View attachment 412094
> 
> 
> On other news... got a few of these to install on the box of the 24" used caliper I recently got... it was missing both...
> 
> View attachment 412095


I still use my weller gun for large soldering tasks. I also use it to weld plastic together.  Don't knock them somethings a small soldering iron just can't do. This also can be used for non-electrical work.

When still doing model airplanes back in the day, I would silver solder stainless steel push rods to the clevis's, or screws depending on the need.
you would never silver solder with a soldering iron for electrical, the staybrite solder is highly corrosive.


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> I still use my weller gun for large soldering tasks. I also use it to weld plastic together.  Don't knock them somethings a small soldering iron just can't do. This also can be used for non-electrical work.
> 
> When still doing model airplanes back in the day, I would silver solder stainless steel push rods to the clevis's, or screws depending on the need.
> you would never silver solder with a soldering iron for electrical, the staybrite solder is highly corrosive.


You just reminded me where it is.... Borrowed by my daughter for making cosplay costumes.... yup, she is using it for soldering plastics... Doubt I will see it again.

Not knocking them... I have that one as well as two of the pencil type.  Those are not going anywhere.... well, one is, since it looks like my daughter is going to keep it... 

I had to buy a heat gun the other day because I could not find mine... guess where it was!?  Yeah, now my daughter has her own heat gun... Funny thing is that she grabbed the new one and gave me back the old one, lol.  The things we do for our children...


----------



## IamNotImportant

Larry42 said:


> ?? Just click on the first one and it pops to large size, then click on the > arrow to step through all or click on the thumb nails at the bottom of the screen.   ???


yeah.. i know.. but it ain't big enough.. i still have to open it in a new page in order to see it well.. you get a option.. to insert full image.. use it


----------



## sdelivery

Well..it doesn't seem like much compared to you guys but I was elated.
I paid 20.00 at a yard sale for 6 calipers a Starett dial caliper and a like new Japanese mag base.
It was the Hermaphrodite caliper out of the six that made my little heart go pitter patter. 
I dont worry about names engraved on the tools, heck I got MORE than MY monies worth.....THIS TOOL IS EXPERIENCED!
Still in the trade I always wanted but not needed a set of metric dial calipers, 
Bingo! Last calibration date on sticker is 2006.


----------



## Dave Smith

IamNotImportant said:


> yeah.. i know.. but it ain't big enough.. i still have to open it in a new page in order to see it well.. you get a option.. to insert full image.. use it


----------



## brino

wachuko said:


> The things we do for our children...


yep. But I wouldn't trade it for anything.
Brian


----------



## matthewsx

A gib




Actually I bought the lathe this goes to a while back and it was missing. I bought one from Grizzly that fits but I never scraped it in. This week the guy I bought the lathe from reaches out and says he found it.    

Picked it up today and he also gave me this 3 jaw 10” chuck.




John


----------



## Brento

Today i got a nice drill chuck and a close to full set of stub drills from @mattthemuppet2. But due to his careless act, I had to buy a drill index for stub drills because the drill indexs i have are for jobber length.  Thanks Matt for making me spend more money!

Edit: I hope no one takes this post to serious and understands that this post was all in good fun. I will post pictures of the drill index once i get in next week.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a new Israeli made R8 1-1/2” end mill holder.

This seems like a great deal, but 1-1/2” Weldon shank cutters are not so common. 

I am planning on putting a 4 to 6 flute center cutting end mill in this, but such an end mill is hard to find. Any suggestions? I could go new, used, import, domestic, HSS, or carbide.


----------



## extropic

Have you seen?









						Excess cutters
					

I have several bigger cutters, 1" shank and above, that came with my mill purchase. I don't see me having a machine large enough to use them anytime soon, so I would like to trade for items that I could use now. If anyone is interested I'll get some pics this evening.




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## IamNotImportant

Dave Smith said:


> View attachment 412146
> View attachment 412148
> View attachment 412149
> View attachment 412150
> View attachment 412151
> View attachment 412152
> View attachment 412147


----------



## IamNotImportant

Dave Smith said:


> View attachment 412146
> View attachment 412148
> View attachment 412149
> View attachment 412150
> View attachment 412151
> View attachment 412152
> View attachment 412147


my garage is beginning to look like that and i have hardly bought any equipment.. a lathe, a mill and a new tool box... already see that i need another tool box.. oh boy!


----------



## kiwi_007

Larry42 said:


> You do have a problem. The problem is: You keep getting the deals and leaving me out in the cold.



Sorry, but if I wait for everyone else to find the bargains I will most likely miss them myself or they will become less of a bargain as the bids add up

But here some more



Just $15 for a Starrett 25-50



I feel extremely luck to get a Starrett 150-175mm in it's wooden case for $12.40




I also snagged a pair of Starrett 161 D clamps for $22, love the colours of the case hardening. I've got a pair of Starrett surface guages and a Eclipse surface guage that have similar colouring.


----------



## woodchucker

15 for the smaller and $12 for that big mic.. wow.. you really do suck.


----------



## IamNotImportant

kiwi_007 said:


> Sorry, but if I wait for everyone else to find the bargains I will most likely miss them myself or they will become less of a bargain as the bids add up
> 
> But here some more
> View attachment 412171
> 
> 
> Just $15 for a Starrett 25-50
> 
> View attachment 412172
> 
> I feel extremely luck to get a Starrett 150-175mm in it's wooden case for $12.40
> 
> View attachment 412173
> 
> 
> I also snagged a pair of Starrett 161 D clamps for $22, love the colours of the case hardening. I've got a pair of Starrett surface guages and a Eclipse surface guage that have similar colouring.


ppl around here act like their tools are from Fort Knox


----------



## mattthemuppet2

erikmannie said:


> I bought a new Israeli made R8 1-1/2” end mill holder.
> 
> This seems like a great deal, but 1-1/2” Weldon shank cutters are not so common.
> 
> I am planning on putting a 4 to 6 flute center cutting end mill in this, but such an end mill is hard to find. Any suggestions? I could go new, used, import, domestic, HSS, or carbide.
> 
> View attachment 412163


I've got a whole pile I want to get rid of


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Brento said:


> Today i got a nice drill chuck and a close to full set of stub drills from @mattthemuppet2. But due to his careless act, I had to buy a drill index for stub drills because the drill indexs i have are for jobber length.  Thanks Matt for making me spend more money!
> 
> Edit: I hope no one takes this post to serious and understands that this post was all in good fun. I will post pictures of the drill index once i get in next week.


Mattthemuppet's Ebay Shoppe, helping people spend money since December 2021 

You can get away with hot gluing some bits of wood into the index "leaves" to raise the bits up, but it's a bit shonky and they still go everywhere if you tip the index by accident.


----------



## Gnpenning

I'm going to be running into the same problem because of Matt.  

Of course I can't take any of the blame .


----------



## Brento

Gnpenning said:


> I'm going to be running into the same problem because of Matt.
> 
> Of course I can't take any of the blame .


What ya gettin!!!


----------



## Gnpenning

Brento said:


> What ya gettin!!!


reamers
drill chucks
screw machine drill bits ( number,  letter index and for fractional)
keyseat cutters
carbide drills. 

I had to call uncle before selling a kidney. 

 Matt was great to work with and very patient with all my beginner questions.  

Good thing he is a long drive or I might have ended up with a dog as well.


----------



## Brento

He hooked me up the first time with round over cutters. We did a little trading back then. If there was anything else i needed to buy it would be cutters. But boy there is a lot of different kinds and with not knowing what size you need sure makes it hard.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a Lyndex 1” R8 collet (I broke the one that I had in a power feed tool crash).

Also, a used USA made MT4 (inside) to 1-1/2” OD adapter sleeve for (hopefully) using taper shank drills in a 1-1/2” *end mill holder* (sounds like it won’t work). I have a lot of MT4 taper shank drills, & I wanted to see how rigid this setup is before I buy a bunch of stubby 1-1/2” straight shank drills.


----------



## kiwi_007

IamNotImportant said:


> ppl around here act like their tools are from Fort Knox


I do like buying quality tools in excellent condition for what I consider bargain prices. 
But have paid top dollar for something I’ve wanted that doesn’t come up very often


----------



## IamNotImportant

kiwi_007 said:


> I do like buying quality tools in excellent condition for what I consider bargain prices.
> But have paid top dollar for something I’ve wanted that doesn’t come up very often


yeah.. well to know the area i live in, you'd understand..


----------



## projectnut

I purchased a new blade today for the Baileigh cold saw.  This one is a 350mm (14") with 100 teeth specifically for aluminum.  The blade that came with it was a 315mm 120 tooth specifically for steel.  I'll test the new one out in the next week or so.  If I like the way it works, I'll buy another 350mm one with 120 teeth ground to cut steel.  With 3 blades I should be set for a while unless I do something stupid.

Here's my newest blade:




__





						350mm-2.5mm-32mm M2 HSS Saw Blade | Cold Saw Blade Store
					

350mm-2.5mm-32mm M2 HSS Saw Blade - Cold Saw Blade Store offers the best pricing and service in the cold saw blade industry.




					coldsawbladestore.com


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a TMX R8 shank 1-1/4” end mill holder. I shopped around and found a 10% off coupon at globalindustrial.com, so the EMH was only $91.76 plus tax plus shipping.





__





						8-510-0040   - R8 End Mill Holder, 1-1/4in - Toolmex Industrial Solutions
					

8-510-0040 R8 End Mill Holder, 1-1/4in, Toolmex Industrial Solutions




					www.toolmex.com
				




I would have bought a Bison if it were cheaper. I like either TMX or Bison.


----------



## woodchucker

projectnut said:


> I purchased a new blade today for the Baileigh cold saw.  This one is a 350mm (14") with 100 teeth specifically for aluminum.  The blade that came with it was a 315mm 120 tooth specifically for steel.  I'll test the new one out in the next week or so.  If I like the way it works, I'll buy another 350mm one with 120 teeth ground to cut steel.  With 3 blades I should be set for a while unless I do something stupid.
> 
> Here's my newest blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 350mm-2.5mm-32mm M2 HSS Saw Blade | Cold Saw Blade Store
> 
> 
> 350mm-2.5mm-32mm M2 HSS Saw Blade - Cold Saw Blade Store offers the best pricing and service in the cold saw blade industry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> coldsawbladestore.com


I thought cold saw blades were carbide for long wear? No?


----------



## matthewsx

Central Machinery RF 30 clone


----------



## projectnut

woodchucker said:


> I thought cold saw blades were carbide for long wear? No?


They do make carbide blades for tough materials, and often use them on automatic saws or ones that are in high production situations.  They do last longer but are more prone to damage if used by less experienced operators on manual saws.  They are also considerably more expensive to purchase and to resharpen.  When I talked to the expert at the Cold Saw Blade Store, he said it would be a waste of money given the type of material (mainly 2" to 4" 6061 aluminum solid round stock) and amount of cutting the saw will be doing.

My current plan is to use this saw to cut up to 4" diameter solid aluminum round stock rather than continually having to change blades on the horizontal bandsaw.  If it works well, I will also be doing a fair amount of aluminum flat stock on this machine and using the bandsaw for ferrous metals.


----------



## matthewsx

matthewsx said:


> Central Machinery RF 30 clone
> 
> View attachment 412356
> 
> 
> View attachment 412357
> 
> 
> View attachment 412358


And here it is in it’s spot across from the lathe.






Don't think I could fit anything bigger in there and still pull the motorcycle in at night. Paid $850 from a guy who used it for building bicycle frames, he still has another one if he wants to keep doing it. 

Bonus, he's an accomplished TIG weldor and just accepted a job offer from the same company I work for. Will be starting it's own thread here soon since I have plenty of ideas on improvements I'd like to make but for now I'm stoked to have this machine with so little wear.

John


----------



## Firstram

That looks awesome, great job cleaning up a nice machine!


----------



## ChazzC

OK, so this stuff came Friday, not today:



Most of the hardware is my periodic project & stock order from Bolt Depot, but the couple of items along the top (plus some 10-32 x 3/8-16 EZ-Lok inserts) came from my similarly periodic McMaster order: since I was ordering from McM I checked my wish list and picked up a spare File Card/Brush (learned about file brushes from Guy Lautard) and a "low vibration" 1/2" shank x 1/2"Ø hole slitting saw arbor (Sierra American SA-500; remarkably $20 less than from Penn Tool!). The photo was taken with my Nikon D5100 and my new (also delivered Friday by Amazon) Ring Flash:



I've been meaning to get a ring light to improve the quality of my project documentation photos, and had been looking at the $25 – $35 LED lamps, but this one popped up in my search — a real TTL ring flash (which is why the connecting cord is huge). Yes, my iPhone 6s takes adequate photos, and the 5100 with a 35–55 zoom does a very good job, but photo-friendly lighting around the mill can be difficult. The ring flash was a good deal at $90, and it does a great job: color rendering is almost perfect in comparison to the iPhone photo which looks good, but the LED shop lights wash out the true color of the cork board.


----------



## Brento

What do you do with all the hardware?


----------



## ChazzC

A handful of different projects: machinist jacks, blanking off some unused mounting holes in my mill’s column, brass/tipped set screws to secure a solid carbide boring bar, 10-32 clamping hardware for fixture plates, low-profile SHCS for new bellows on the mill and a host of others & stock.


----------



## ChazzC

Or did you mean, "Where did I put it all?" Right now, everything is still in the nicely labeled bags that Bolt Depot uses. Eventually, those items that don't get used in the projects they were purchased for will be stowed away in the stack of boxes:


----------



## Brento

Some of your projects sound interesting and fun. Do you post about them?


----------



## great white

picked up a 4" vice for the mill. Nothing fancy, just an ebay special.

Also learned I'm never ordering anything from an "India" seller again. Not that the stuff is total junk, but they shipped it courier (when they said standard shipping) which means you get dinged or "brokerage fees" and shortly after my last "India" purchase, I started getting bombarded with spam mail.

The spam may not be linked to the purchase, but it's awfully suspicious that I was not getting any spam at all before and after the purchase my inbox just starts getting flooded....


----------



## FOMOGO

The Noga's  I ordered a while back came in the other day. Very nice quality compared to some of the no-name ones I have. I would say just the mag base is worth the $25 a piece that I paid for them. Here is a pic of three Noga's/ Nogi? lined up on the mill. It's the one in the center. Thanks again to the member that posted the sale. Mike


----------



## WobblyHand

Got a chance to visit @mmcmdl and bring home an arbor press stand, and some miscellaneous pieces of 80/20.  The arbor stand is made of stainless and will be great for my use.  I have enough 80/20 to make up a small table for another use.  Was fun visiting Dave and his collection of stuff!  I was most fortunate not to be driving a large vehicle, nor towing a trailer, otherwise I would have had to make a new addition to my house!  He had some nice machines there.  The ride back took me through a different way, that was more rural, which was a lot nicer than the ride on I-95.  The last time I had been through that general area was around 1975.  Was great to see it again.


True to my word, I left room for my wife and her bags to get home.  Won't have to strap her to the roof - she was worried, I get carried away sometimes


----------



## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> Got a chance to visit @mmcmdl and bring home an arbor press stand, and some miscellaneous pieces of 80/20.  The arbor stand is made of stainless and will be great for my use.  I have enough 80/20 to make up a small table for another use.  Was fun visiting Dave and his collection of stuff!  I was most fortunate not to be driving a large vehicle, nor towing a trailer, otherwise I would have had to make a new addition to my house!  He had some nice machines there.  The ride back took me through a different way, that was more rural, which was a lot nicer than the ride on I-95.  The last time I had been through that general area was around 1975.  Was great to see it again.
> View attachment 412499
> 
> True to my word, I left room for my wife and her bags to get home.  Won't have to strap her to the roof - she was worried, I get carried away sometimes


When you want to do  and


----------



## WhyW8

Well, I cut loose of little green today and purchased a HF mini mill with a set of ER32 collets, also a 4" table vise.  The mill had some less experience operator who milled/drilled into to the table in 2 spots other that looks ok for the run of the mill import.


----------



## ChazzC

Brento said:


> Some of your projects sound interesting and fun. Do you post about them?


Thanks for your interest. I've posted a couple on the Home Model Engine Machine forum as well as the Home Shop Machinist forum. I also have an article in the July-August 2022 issue of _The Home Shop Machinist_ magazine, as well as several that are in the queue for future issues.

Although I've been a member of the Hobby•Machinist forum since early 2021, I haven't been really active until recently, so I expect that you will see some of the projects mentioned above in the POTD section in the near future.


Charlie


----------



## erikmannie

I bought two Aloris brand HSS CXA parting blades for $74.58 delivered:





__





						Parting Blade P-3W
					






					www.aloris.com
				




.125” groove, .750” height:




My already worn SGIH 26-4C-CX7 was damaged by a noob visitor working on my lathe while parting 1” steel hex bar. It was my fault because I did not tell him to feed very slowly. I had no idea that somebody would feed so quickly.

I have a bunch of carbon inserts, but I don’t have enough money for a new SGIH 26-4C-CX7. I was pleased to learn that a CXA7 tool holder accepts 3/4” HSS blades.

Here are pictures of the damaged insert-type parting tool. When I use this, the inserts bust pretty quickly.


----------



## Aukai

I got my Enco boring head at a great price, I just need to get the cat 40 arbor off


----------



## mattthemuppet2

woohoo! I have one just like that. I have a fairly crappy and not entirely understandable manual for it if you want one. PM your email and I'll send it over.


----------



## projectnut

Got the new 350mm aluminum cutting blade on the cold saw last night so I could make a few test cuts this morning before the temps got up to the 90's.  Earlier today I took a 1 3/4" solid round of 6061 to the saw to see how accurate it would cut.  I must say I was both impressed and a little concerned at the same time.

I was impressed that the blade was accurate to within .001", AND the cut looked like it had been done in a milling machine. Once the blade is broken It will surely cut faster than any of the other saws.  According to seasoned professionals I should be able to cut through the 1 3/4' round stock in less than 10 seconds.  However, the instructions supplied with the blade say to feed at 1/2 speed or less for the first dozen or so cuts.  Keeping in line with the instructions I took a little over 20 seconds per cut. 

I must say I was a bit surprised as to the amount of swarf it generated.  The blade is 2.5mm wide which is slightly under .100".  I'm used to the amount of swarf that's generated by either an .035" bandsaw blade or an .062" wide power hacksaw blade.  It's now obvious the wider cold saw blade generates far more swarf, and in the form of chips rather than dust.

Here are a few pictures of the mess the saw makes after only cutting 4 disks .165 thick.


----------



## woodchucker

projectnut said:


> Got the new 350mm aluminum cutting blade on the cold saw last night so I could make a few test cuts this morning before the temps got up to the 90's.  Earlier today I took a 1 3/4" solid round of 6061 to the saw to see how accurate it would cut.  I must say I was both impressed and a little concerned at the same time.
> 
> I was impressed that the blade was accurate to within .001", AND the cut looked like it had been done in a milling machine. Once the blade is broken It will surely cut faster than any of the other saws.  According to seasoned professionals I should be able to cut through the 1 3/4' round stock in less than 10 seconds.  However, the instructions supplied with the blade say to feed at 1/2 speed or less for the first dozen or so cuts.  Keeping in line with the instructions I took a little over 20 seconds per cut.
> 
> I must say I was a bit surprised as to the amount of swarf it generated.  The blade is 2.5mm wide which is slightly under .100".  I'm used to the amount of swarf that's generated by either an .035" bandsaw blade or an .062" wide power hacksaw blade.  It's now obvious the wider cold saw blade generates far more swarf, and in the form of chips rather than dust.
> 
> Here are a few pictures of the mess the saw makes after only cutting 4 disks .165 thick.


chips, I don't see no stinkin chips...
I think Graham said these were chips











						My Wife Said She'd Like Some Chips
					

So I made her some.




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




on a serious note, not too bad.. if you don't want the saw, I'll take it... at a discount, since it's used and covered in chips


----------



## wachuko

These came in today.  Poorly packaged, so I need to now fix the wooden box.  By pure luck, no parts were missing…




And bought this thinking of using the workbench for my 9”x20” lathe, but I just do not have the heart to do so…. It came with everything, including rests, chisel sets, etc.  All that is in a box…. Looks like I will learn woodworking as well…


----------



## Gnpenning

I got this. Securely packed and padded from mattthemuppet2.  Have to sort through and organize when I get a chance. 

Thanks Matt.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

you're very welcome! Glad to see the red box did it's job protecting the contents. Those are a perfect fit for medium flat rate boxes


----------



## Larry$

woodchucker said:


> I thought cold saw blades were carbide for long wear? No?


I've got an old Italian made cold saw that came with steel blades. Two speed motor that I use the "low" for steel. I use WD40 manually on aluminum. Machine has a working flood coolant system but I don't like the mess. The saw blade turns quite slowly and produces almost no heat. The cut is much faster than my 4x6 bandsaw & much smoother.


----------



## WhyW8

Well I lost a $100.00 today, but picked up some goodies in the deal.... End mill, center drills, rotary table, mill attachment hardware, cutting oil.. Free cart and fire extinguisher too.


----------



## wachuko

All that for 100.00!!!!???


----------



## Dave Smith

wachuko said:


> All that for 100.00!!!!???


ditto from me also!!!!


----------



## WhyW8

wachuko said:


> All that for 100.00!!!!???


yep, I'm still smiling.  My buddy bought about $1500 +/- worth of end mills, a large percentage of them still had the candy protection on the cutting surface,  keyway cutter, and other ... for $90.00 -- all good US made  -- it was a good haul for him and I


----------



## wachuko

WhyW8 said:


> yep, I'm still smiling.  My buddy bought about $1500 +/- worth of end mills, a large percentage of them still had the candy protection on the cutting surface,  keyway cutter, and other ... for $90.00 -- all good US made  -- it was a good haul for him and I


Where the heck is that  “You suck” emoji!!!

Ah, found it!


----------



## WhyW8

Yeah today was just a lucky day for me....  Old Aerospace machinist getting rid of of his machining items.  I have never been so happy to dig a $100 out of my pocket


----------



## woodchucker

WhyW8 said:


> yep, I'm still smiling.  My buddy bought about $1500 +/- worth of end mills, a large percentage of them still had the candy protection on the cutting surface,  keyway cutter, and other ... for $90.00 -- all good US made  -- it was a good haul for him and I


And what are you going to do with all those drill bushings?  Lots and lots of drill bushings...

edit: where'd it come from that its all rusted? you are in AZ.. there shouldn't be rust.


----------



## WhyW8

All those drill bushing were part of the package.  Got a bunch of harden steel dowels/pins of varying sizes and lengths as well

I have no need for ALL of them, so I will pass some of them along to others.    Yeah, got to love it rust shows up everywhere even in the desert.


----------



## sycle1

WHYW8 Huge suckage there!


----------



## Just for fun

WhyW8 said:


> Well I lost a $100.00 today, but picked up some goodies in the deal.... End mill, center drills, rotary table, mill attachment hardware, cutting oil.. Free cart and fire extinguisher too.
> View attachment 412869
> 
> View attachment 412867
> View attachment 412868
> 
> View attachment 412859
> View attachment 412860
> View attachment 412862
> View attachment 412861
> View attachment 412863
> View attachment 412864
> View attachment 412865
> View attachment 412866



Holy Cow that's a haul for sure.  Congratulations!


----------



## Larry$

projectnut said:


> I was impressed that the blade was accurate to within .001", AND the cut looked like it had been done in a milling machine.


Maybe it is because your saw pivots to make the cut and mine travels vertically on dovetails, BUT the blade on your saw is rotating toward the fence & mine rotates away. The advantage of rotating away is that any cutoff piece simply falls forward (toward the operator) and so will not bind up in the fence opening. The blade on my saw is turning quite slowly so it does not throw small cutoffs. It might be worth checking the operating manual to be sure your blade is on the correct rotational direction. A small cutoff binding in the fence opening could bend the blade!


----------



## projectnut

Larry$ said:


> Maybe it is because your saw pivots to make the cut and mine travels vertically on dovetails, BUT the blade on your saw is rotating toward the fence & mine rotates away. The advantage of rotating away is that any cutoff piece simply falls forward (toward the operator) and so will not bind up in the fence opening. The blade on my saw is turning quite slowly so it does not throw small cutoffs. It might be worth checking the operating manual to be sure your blade is on the correct rotational direction. A small cutoff binding in the fence opening could bend the blade!


Even with the blade rotating toward the fence I haven't had problems with small pieces binding up. At this time there is about 3/8" of space between the half of the vise that holds the raw stock and the half that holds the finished piece. The jaws on the vise can be adjusted close enough to allow only enough room for the blade to pass or can be opened as wide as 2" to allow the blade to slit the stock.  The head will rotate 45* to the left and 90* to the right.  The vise itself is on a slide so it can be repositioned forward or to the rear for cutting angles on larger stock or slitting.  There is also an adjustable attachment that fits on the raw stock half of the vise that can be positioned to hold the finished piece after it's been cut.  I haven't installed the arm that holds the finished stock yet. 

The blade is rotating in the correct direction.  On this machine there's an arrow embossed on the blade guard showing the direction of rotation.  There's also an arrow on each of the blades showing the direction of rotation.  The machine has infinitely variable speed from 24 rpm to 120 rpm.  It has flood coolant to keep the swarf out of the kerf.  The only downside so far is that the swarf just piles up around the vise and eventually falls into the coolant return trough.  There are screens and filters in the return trough to keep the swarf from entering the coolant tank.  If the machine were to be used in a production situation the swarf would have to be manually removed multiple times throughout the day.

This saw is a Baileigh CS 350EU.  Here's a link to some information from the manufacturer:





__





						Cicular Cold Saw - CS-350EU Coldsaw  | Baileigh Industrial
					

Baileigh Industrial's CS-350-EU cold saw is a powerful machine that can cut through solids, tubing, or pipe. This cicular cold saw is usually in stock for fast shipments.




					www.baileigh.com


----------



## woodchucker

Larry$ said:


> Maybe it is because your saw pivots to make the cut and mine travels vertically on dovetails, BUT the blade on your saw is rotating toward the fence & mine rotates away. The advantage of rotating away is that any cutoff piece simply falls forward (toward the operator) and so will not bind up in the fence opening. The blade on my saw is turning quite slowly so it does not throw small cutoffs. It might be worth checking the operating manual to be sure your blade is on the correct rotational direction. A small cutoff binding in the fence opening could bend the blade!


I would rather have it rotating toward the fence. It is well supported that way, the chips aren't thrown toward the operator, and it makes better sense.


----------



## Christianstark

woodchucker said:


> I would rather have it rotating toward the fence. It is well supported that way, the chips aren't thrown toward the operator, and it makes better sense.



Agreed


----------



## Larry$

woodchucker said:


> I would rather have it rotating toward the fence. It is well supported that way, the chips aren't thrown toward the operator, and it makes better sense.


If your vice isn't strong enough then maybe you have a point. The vice on my saw is more massive than the cast-iron fence! The vice is automatic clamp & release when the operating lever is moved in & out of the cut position. A common design on production machines. 
The slow rotational speed of the blade doesn't throw chips and the guard covers the area very well. 
At any rate that is how the machine is designed to operate and for good reason, no binding of cut-off chucks getting jambed and thrown.


----------



## ChazzC

OK, so I didn't buy it, I "rescued" it:



Heavy wall, telescoping brass tubing, miscellaneous brass knobs & fittings, heavy cast iron base (under the brass cover) and some like-new lamp parts for the spare parts box; the rest will go where it's former owner was going to send it, just a week late.


----------



## Larry42

projectnut said:


> I haven't installed the arm that holds the finished stock yet.


Me either, seems like it would just get in the way, making it hard to cleanup all the chips.  You have a nice saw. What do you run for cutting fluid?


----------



## Firstram

WhyW8 said:


> Well I lost a $100.00 today, but picked up some goodies in the deal.... End mill, center drills, rotary table, mill attachment hardware, cutting oil.. Free cart and fire extinguisher too.


Wow, what a haul, it's good to see this stuff go to a good home rather than a recycler! The person selling it for such a phenomenal price must be hating life or thrilled to see this stuff go to someone who appreciates it. It's awesome he's addressing it before his family has to load it into a dumpster or search the internet to find a perceived price on each and every bench brush.


----------



## Firstram

Shout out to mattthemuppet2, I got my FREE red bin today! Everything was well packed and arrived safely.
Thanks again, Wes.


----------



## WhyW8

Firstram said:


> Wow, what a haul, it's good to see this stuff go to a good home rather than a recycler! The person selling it for such a phenomenal price must be hating life or thrilled to see this stuff go to someone who appreciates it. It's awesome he's addressing it before his family has to load it into a dumpster or search the internet to find a perceived price on each and every bench brush.


He is wanting to relocate in the near future and as an old tradesman, he no longer has an interest in machining.  He could have sold these and other items for far more, but he just wanted to see it go to someone that will carry on...

I'm a newbie to all this machining, so I'm super stoked to pick up these items.


----------



## WhyW8

Picked up another new item today, a  Dumore Hi-speed sensitive drill


----------



## erikmannie

I bought these solid carbide endmills and drills from @mattthemuppet2 

They range from 1/16” to 3/4”. There are also three indexable chamfer tools, two from Iscar and one made in Japan. Finally, some inserts for the Iscar tools.

I was completely blown away by what a great deal Matt made me. I immediately placed a third order from him which he promptly dispatched. Matt does not sell any junk!


----------



## projectnut

In a previous post I mentioned the blade on the Baileigh cold saw was rotating toward the "fence".  That may have been a poor choice of words.  It's actually the fixed jaw of the vise.  The vise itself is a stout cast iron affair with adjustable jaws.  It also uses a taper lock in addition to the handwheel. 

Here's a picture of the vise during the reassembly process without the adjustable jaws


----------



## matthewsx

Didn’t actually buy, Craigslist free find. Workbench and cabinets that will find a home under my lathe probably. 



Cabinets are really heavy duty, possibly from a bank. 

John


----------



## ChazzC

My Boring Research Mag Pen (https://boringresearch.com/store/mag-pen-handheld-magnetic-sweep/) arrived:



Check out their Spindle Squares, available as complete kits or just the body:


(I got mine a few years ago)


----------



## pontiac428

If a purchase takes years, what counts for buying today?  I paid up on Tuesday, so close enough.

Hopefully this is my last lathe.  Nardini Nodus ND-1760.  Also ordered a 20hp RPC (the 5hp unit powering the mill won't cut it) from American Rotary.  And of course I paid out the nose for 2,500 miles worth of freight.  And I paid triple for a 6k reach forklift, because there apparently isn't a single plain ol' forklift in the greater Seattle area at the moment.   That puts me at almost $14k in our new devalued currency.  Two years ago it would have cost half to do the same, but what am I going to do, order from China?  I did find exactly what I have wanted for a long time.  Crazy thing is, the freight company is hauling from Cincinnati to Seattle, made the pickup the same day I paid, will have it here in five calendar days from dispatch, and my lathe is the only thing on the truck.  Usually you buy a little piece of the load, because logistics is a business, but I got personal service from 4 time zones away.  Just wild.

Okay, okay, yes there are pics.  Keep in mind 17" machines are capital equipment.  You don't find Nardinis very often in original paint  in this sort of condition.  Most offerings in this size range are worn smoother than the blarney stone, so I think I did well.  Hopefully no surprises.


----------



## mmcmdl

pontiac428 said:


> That puts me at almost $14k in our new devalued currency


I made a post about this earlier . I'm also looking into the American Rotary converters . Quadruple what they were a couple years back . Ouch ! That's a good looking lathe there and a nice size one at that . That should hold you over for awhile !


----------



## pontiac428

American Rotary got hit pretty hard by the state of Washington for online, out-of-state sales tax evasion about three years ago.  My purchase records at the time were subpoenaed (by the state) for the suit, which felt dirty to me.  They had fines, and their prices went up, then covid, then economic collapse, then the crash of the dollar... But they're a great company, so I went back to them for this one.  One thing's for sure, I have not gotten any pay bumps to compensate, have you?!


----------



## rabler

mmcmdl said:


> I'm also looking into the American Rotary converters


I went the route of just buying a control panel and using a used 3 phase motor to save a few $$


----------



## mmcmdl

rabler said:


> I went the route of just buying a control panel and using a used 3 phase motor to save a few $$


I'll have to talk to you about that .


----------



## rabler

mmcmdl said:


> I'll have to talk to you about that .


NAPC panels ... just add your own idler motor. I used WNY but at this point NAPC looks better made.


----------



## Larry$

rabler said:


> I went the route of just buying a control panel and using a used 3 phase motor to save a few $$


I did that a long time ago and used it for years before I got 3 phase. I didn't have, don't know that there was available any "control panels" at the time. Mine was just some big capacitors and two switches.


----------



## great white

NOS Atlas Workholding 6" independent 4 jaw chuck. I've been working around the limitations of the 40-50 year old chuck on my TH42. Will be nice to have one that's tight and true for a change.

Not to mention a chuck key that is not floppy and loose in the adjuster screws. My current one is a mix of worn key and worn adjuster screws…


----------



## rabler

Larry$ said:


> I did that a long time ago and used it for years before I got 3 phase. I didn't have, don't know that there was available any "control panels" at the time. Mine was just some big capacitors and two switches.


That's all mine is.  Well they added a fancy timer to kick out the start caps, so only one switch.  WNY was highly recommended for a while, but they had obviously just switched manufacturing (I suspect the name got bought out) and mine had so many loose wires (poorly crimped terminals) it was embarrassing.

My main contactor is currently buzzing annoyingly loud.  Rebuilding it with some added features is on my to do list.


----------



## great white

Engine cylinder hone:




Ebay special. But the price was low enough for me to give it a try.


----------



## Brento

Well today i ended up buy ANOTHER empty Huot 115 stub drill index. The first time the guy canceled my order. The second time from ebay the guy got a damaged one from his warehouse and wont get another shipment until the 8th of August. Sooooo for 10$ more i just ordered straight from Huot this time. God knows when it will get here.


----------



## Eyerelief

After complaining about too many boring heads, I bought another.  To my defense, I've only paid for two, and someone made me an offer I couldn't refuse.  He knew it was a boring head, but not familiar with it past that.  It looked to me like it was complete with one exception.  Two of the clamping screws were missing.  I know that it is good practice to take out the unused screws so they don't turn into projectiles so I assume the previous owner likely did just that.  Other than that, all the parts were there and most were unused.  The head was obviously used, one boring bar used, one extension bar used, and the left hand carbide cutters are both chipped.  The rest looks unused.  $750 to the house.


It had a 1.5" straight shank installed but an unused R8 was part of the package.  I flooded it with oil to flush out the old "gunk" that was inside.  Once the excess started to run clean, I figured it was probably OK to try out.  Here is the first cut with it on some 7075 AL.  I used an indexable 3/4" bar with the 1" to 3/4" sleeve that was in the kit.


I have 2 Criterion heads, and 3 Yuasa heads, but this one is by far the most rigid.  I didn't expect to feel much of a difference between a 4" Yuasa and this one but the difference is substantial.  I still have much to learn but in my world that applies to just about everything.
For the first cut, I was trying to put in enough relief to drop a washer in.  I didn't set the stops, just measured the washer and gave it a try.  The washer doesn't move in the hole, but I over shot the depth by .020 because I dropped the table after the first pass, (.020 deep) when I realized I was too close to slip the washer under the cutter.  Went back and zero'd everything without taking into consideration the first pass.  All things considered, it was much easier than the old way.


I'll be looking for left and right hand stubby indexable 1" boring bars


----------



## great white

needed a dial bore gauge so:




Not exactly a "high end" one, but it's better than what I have now (ie: none).....


----------



## wachuko

Got a new toolbox to place the 9x20 lathe…

In the photo is my brother on the right and on the left, a good friend of his…




From 619.00 ended paying 420.00 after coupon and additional manager discount of 10%… Made a slot on the butcher block to slide on top…


----------



## great white

wachuko said:


> Got a new toolbox to place the 9x20 lathe…
> 
> In the photo is my brother on the right and on the left, a good friend of his…
> 
> View attachment 413079
> 
> 
> From 619.00 ended paying 420.00 after coupon and additional manager discount of 10%… Made a slot on the butcher block to slide on top…


I did something similar with a roll around box. I would recommend you consider moving the butcher block rearward a bit. I left a similar front overhang on mine and I find it a pain to access the back of the top drawer as the butcher block sticks out too much for my liking. It's not a show stopper, but it sure is a PITA when I need something from the top drawer....


----------



## wachuko

great white said:


> I did something similar with a roll around box. I would recommend you consider moving the butcher block rearward a bit. I left a similar front overhang on mine and I find it a pain to access the back of the top drawer as the butcher block sticks out too much for my liking. It's not a show stopper, but it sure is a PITA when I need something from the top drawer....


I did not think about that…


----------



## Gnpenning

great white said:


> I did something similar with a roll around box. I would recommend you consider moving the butcher block rearward a bit. I left a similar front overhang on mine and I find it a pain to access the back of the top drawer as the butcher block sticks out too much for my liking. It's not a show stopper, but it sure is a PITA when I need something from the top drawer....


Great point.  I just picked up a gentle used one recently and put a random piece of plywood on the top that sits almost flush with the little sides.  Nice part is how easy you can make it fit your needs.


----------



## pontiac428

wachuko said:


> I did not think about that…


Been there, done that.  Drawers aren't any good half covered unless you have skinny hands.


----------



## erikmannie

Today I received this lot of HSS 1-1/4” and 2” endmills (and a drill) from @mattthemuppet2 

He did not sell me the 1-1/2” endmill holder + hex key. I included that tool for a size reference because you guys know how big an R8 taper shank is.

To say that this is a smashing deal is obviously an understatement. Thank you to Matt for providing a happy end to my miserable work day (my UPS truck broke down in a remote area with no cell signal, & I had to walk several miles with what I discovered *10 hours later* was a steel (face milling) chip cutting into my big toe).






I don’t have a 2” EMH (or money to buy one). I might try to turn down the 2” HSS shanks to 1-1/2”.

Maybe you need more than 3HP to use a 2” endmill. For now, I will be limiting myself to 1-1/4” and smaller.


----------



## extropic

erikmannie said:


> Maybe you need more than 3HP to use a 2” endmill. For now, I will be limiting myself to 1-1/4” and smaller.


Congratulations on your excellent bargain.

However, IMO, you need more than an R8 spindle to run those longer cutters at anything close to their potential.
I'm not overly concerned about the short cutters, as long as you take it very easy with them, but those longer ones are an educational experience waiting to happen.
Just looking at the proportions between the R8 holder and the longer cutters should give you pause.


----------



## mmcmdl

extropic said:


> However, IMO, you need more than an R8 spindle to run those longer cutters at anything close to their potential.
> I'm not overly concerned about the short cutters, as long as you take it very easy with them, but those longer ones are an educational experience waiting to happen.
> Just looking at the proportions between the R8 holder and the longer cutters should give you pause.


I'm afraid we'll be reading some very interesting threads on here in the future .


----------



## wachuko

pontiac428 said:


> Been there, done that.  Drawers aren't any good half covered unless you have skinny hands.





great white said:


> I did something similar with a roll around box. I would recommend you consider moving the butcher block rearward a bit. I left a similar front overhang on mine and I find it a pain to access the back of the top drawer as the butcher block sticks out too much for my liking. It's not a show stopper, but it sure is a PITA when I need something from the top drawer....



I checked... only sticks out 3-1/4" in the front.  I can get to the back of the drawer without issues.


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> I checked... only sticks out 3-1/4" in the front.  I can get to the back of the drawer without issues.
> 
> View attachment 413105


Looks good...


----------



## great white

Been needing a depth mic for a while now. Ran across a Millers falls 0-3" used on ebay:








Seemed like a good deal at 25 usd. Seems like it might be approximately a 1940's-50's model based on the catalogs on vintage machinery web site. Later models appear to have a more "squared off" barrel.....


----------



## matthewsx

Bought some cast iron casters to use with the new cabinets I got. Harbor Freight just introduced these and they’re much cheaper than others out there at only $7.99

Rated for 300lbs but look stout and I’ll be about 1000lbs max with the mill and cabinet. Will see how it works out.


----------



## ChazzC

Another day, another shipment – needed a 48mm snap-in lens cap to mount in the front of the new Ring Flash (yes, I could take the flash off and use the 52mm Nikon cap, but as I've dedicated the camera/lens combo for shop work I wanted to keep everything assembled:



48mm is an odd size, but found one on Amazon for $5.95 with free drop shipping from B&H in Brooklyn. I don't know how they can do this since the packaging must have cost more than the wholesale cost of the lens cap:



It's a good thing I knew what was in the box, or I would have missed it!


----------



## woodchucker

matthewsx said:


> View attachment 413163
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bought some cast iron casters to use with the new cabinets I got. Harbor Freight just introduced these and they’re much cheaper than others out there at only $7.99
> 
> Rated for 300lbs but look stout and I’ll be about 1000lbs max with the mill and cabinet. Will see how it works out.


you know they used to have them, then stopped. They also had the double wheels that ride on a track like an angle iron. Of course when I went to finally get them they discontinued both. Glad to see the cast irons back.  I don't know why they are so low on the rating, but cast iron rolls so much easier with weight than any rubber, poly, or urerthane.


----------



## matthewsx

Yes, I was wondering about the weight rating too. From the construction I would have thought double that but maybe they're just putting the safety factor in for the customer.

My use will be only moving the machines away from the wall for cleaning or maintenance, otherwise they will be sitting on leveling feet when in use so any failure should be pretty low consequence. 

John


----------



## 682bear

matthewsx said:


> Yes, I was wondering about the weight rating too. From the construction I would have thought double that but maybe they're just putting the safety factor in for the customer.
> 
> My use will be only moving the machines away from the wall for cleaning or maintenance, otherwise they will be sitting on leveling feet when in use so any failure should be pretty low consequence.
> 
> John



In my experience... (I haven't used the cast iron casters)... the HF casters will handle more weight than they are rated at... they just don't turn well at their rated weight.

IOW... they will hold the weight, they just won't steer easily with much more than half their rated weight.

But... like I said, I haven't used the cast iron ones. I would be interested in your thoughts on these after you get a load on them.

-Bear


----------



## mmcmdl

I quit buying and let them multiply by themselves . Here's my latest haul ( pic 1 and 2 )moved to the basement . Maybe double this to haul down later tonight . Add them to pic 3 and 4 which are already down and waiting for attention .


----------



## DavidR8

A month or so back I sold my horizontal bandsaw thinking I had no space for it and I could make do with a portaband on a stand. 
It's ok but I really missed the horizontal saw.
Saw this on Marketplace. Started out listed for $350. Nice clean saw  but too much money. Seller reduced it to $300 after a few days. Then last night reduced it to $250.
I offered $200 and he accepted. Happy days!


----------



## great white

DavidR8 said:


> A month or so back I sold my horizontal bandsaw thinking I had no space for it and I could make do with a portaband on a stand.
> It's ok but I really missed the horizontal saw.
> Saw this on Marketplace. Started out listed for $350. Nice clean saw  but too much money. Seller reduced it to $300 after a few days. Then last night reduced it to $250.
> I offered $200 and he accepted. Happy days!
> View attachment 413251


Good deal. Looks lightly used too…


----------



## DavidR8

great white said:


> Good deal. Looks lightly used too…


There aren't even any filings on it!


----------



## great white

Been watching old HD drills on eBay lately. Had a couple in my watch list and a seller made an offer of 2 bucks for this:




McGraw-Edison Power House HD 1/2" Drill Model 70156 550 RPM 6 Amp.

Says it was his fathers drill and thinks it was 1950-1960 era. Said to work fine. Came out to 20 bucks with shipping.

Just couldn’t turn that down!


----------



## DavidR8

great white said:


> Been watching old HD drills on eBay lately. Had a couple in my watch list and a seller made an offer of 2 bucks for this:
> 
> View attachment 413253
> 
> 
> McGraw-Edison Power House HD 1/2" Drill Model 70156 550 RPM 6 Amp.
> 
> Says it was his fathers drill and thinks it was 1950-1960 era. Said to work fine. Came out to 20 bucks with shipping.
> 
> Just couldn’t turn that down!


That looks like a wrist breaker! Good score


----------



## great white

DavidR8 said:


> That looks like a wrist breaker! Good score


I suspect there‘s likely a threaded hole in the top of the casing (like most of the drills I have from this era) where you can screw in a piece of pipe to give you two gripping points.

like this:


----------



## WobblyHand

great white said:


> I suspect there‘s likely a threaded hole in the top of the casing (like most of the drills I have from this era) where you can screw in a piece of pipe to give you two gripping points.
> 
> like this:
> 
> View attachment 413257


Had an ex boss of mine that used one of these to drill a hole through his house to install a laundry vent.  He was pushing it inward too close to him when the hole saw jammed.  The pipe handle came around and knocked him unconscious.  Sometime later his wife came around looking for him and found him out cold next to the wall.  Fortunately for him, he survived without serious problems. 

Tools give a user serious mechanical advantage, but can kill us in a moment if we aren't thinking while running them.  Be alert when using power tools.


----------



## great white

WobblyHand said:


> Had an ex boss of mine that used one of these to drill a hole through his house to install a laundry vent.  He was pushing it inward too close to him when the hole saw jammed.  The pipe handle came around and knocked him unconscious.  Sometime later his wife came around looking for him and found him out cold next to the wall.  Fortunately for him, he survived without serious problems.
> 
> Tools give a user serious mechanical advantage, but can kill us in a moment if we aren't thinking while running them.  Be alert when using power tools.


Oh, I've had a couple of these monsters lock up when drilling. Learned that lesson at an early age using my grand pappy's 1/2 500 rpm drill to punch holes through a motorcycle brake rotor when I was 16.

I always keep a firm two handed grip and am braced for the possibility of lock ups. I've had them try several times in the years past, but I've always had enough....ahem....."mass'....that when it comes to a contest between the drill and me, I win.

These are old tools though, made in a time before law suits, idiot warning labels everywhere and before a time when natural selection seeems to have "taken a break" (like it has these days). These old beasts run forever and get some serious work done, but they don't suffer fools lightly.

That's just fine by me. I prefer the serious "no nonsense" way these old tools work. Respect must be given, or suffer the consequences....


----------



## mattthemuppet2

erikmannie said:


> Today I received this lot of HSS 1-1/4” and 2” endmills (and a drill) from @mattthemuppet2
> 
> To say that this is a smashing deal is obviously an understatement. Thank you to Matt for providing a happy end to my miserable work day (my UPS truck broke down in a remote area with no cell signal, & I had to walk several miles with what I discovered *10 hours later* was a steel (face milling) chip cutting into my big toe).



Trust me, I was very happy to get those gone - they'd been sitting in a box in the way waiting for me to list them on eBay  The 2" I threw in for fun, it'll make a great paperweight or conversation starter. I'm considering keeping the 3*12" one for the same reason, but if anyone wants to have the biggest endmill on the block **** me a PM!


----------



## Gnpenning

great white said:


> Been watching old HD drills on eBay lately. Had a couple in my watch list and a seller made an offer of 2 bucks for this:
> 
> View attachment 413253
> 
> 
> McGraw-Edison Power House HD 1/2" Drill Model 70156 550 RPM 6 Amp.
> 
> Says it was his fathers drill and thinks it was 1950-1960 era. Said to work fine. Came out to 20 bucks with shipping.
> 
> Just couldn’t turn that down!


Used this one last night.  Yes, that is a 6" hole saw.  

The 2nd one is a Van Dorn I picked up last winter.  Haven't found a job for it.


----------



## AGCB97

I have a Milwaukee that won't stop fer nuttin. I never use it anymore without a 3 or 4 foot cheater on the extra mount opposite the handle anchored to something immovable. Same with an old aluminum frame 1/2" drill.

The Milwaukee caught once and wound the cord several times around my wrist before it stopped. 
Aaron


----------



## GoceKU

Today i went to the tool/ flea market, bought me couple of things. First thing i was looking for was a good tire iron, and the first one i found and bought was the rusty UNIOR one for 1,5$ and for couple of rows i could not found any more. Then i started asking the venders and one pulled the 18" one out of his van, i did joke with him, he must be afraid of getting beaten with tire iron so he is hiding it, i paid 3,5$ for it. Last two irons i bought at another vender for 11$, then i started to look for other items for tire repair. Couple more rows and i found couple of pliers i plan to leave them at the tire machine for pulling nails all three 3$. Then i found this M6 threading tap that someone modified for 0,4$ and last thing i found and bought was that electric motor 1.5Kw (2hp) for 25$, it needs some work, it's missing its fan cover and its feet but it has 2 way switch and is running very smoothly I did test it and when running i clean off the shaft. That was the best deal of the day.


----------



## wachuko

84”x24”x84”



For the new house… inventory showed 5 available…nope, only one available and it was way up there..




Good thing nobody was in a hurry, lol…

With that in place, I can start emptying the stuff in the garage of the old house and moving it over…


----------



## great white

So I’ve somewhat resigned myself to the fact that my pappy’s old drill might not be rebuildable. Too much use and too much abuse over too many decades.

Pappy used to own a fish plant in Cape Breton. They had a big warf and a couple fleet ships In addition to just the locals selling their catches.

They used to use this big ol’ drill to punch through warf pilings (think: telephone poles) to bolt them together. My mom was pretty sure the drill had taken more than one dunk in the harbor while working and I wouldn’t doubt it based on its condition.

I was a bit bummed that it had to be “retired” until I ran across a nearly identical one on ebay for 40 bucks:







Same drill except for the jacobs keyless 6444 chuck.

So I’ll shine up pappy’s drill, make it look like it is still a working piece and put it up on the wall in my shop so I can still see the initials he etched into it.

The “new to me” one can pick up the duty pappy’s drill used to do when I need a high torque/low rpm hand drill.


----------



## pontiac428

Today, I got some polymounts for the new lathe to stand on.  My concrete was poured by a team of visually impaired tradesmen that must have been provided to the general at a hearty discount, because on that day, they were also drunk.  But that doesn't matter, these mounts are good for 4,000 lbs apiece and there's 8 of 'em.


----------



## francist

WobblyHand said:


> Tools give a user serious mechanical advantage,


Yeah I wish… 

Funniest thing (it’s funny NOW nearly 50 years later) is when I had to use a power post hole auger to drill for garage footings. Essentially a gas motor on top of an 8 inch diameter x 3 foot long auger bit and four handles in a kind of cross-shape to hang on with. Well, for those of you familiar with Peace River gumbo and I don’t mean the food you’ll be able to picture the outcome better. But for those who aren’t let’s just say it took all of 2.5 seconds for the auger bit to go from full height to practically burying the motor, and when it finally locked up that four-handled cross turned into the four handled helicopter rotor with me attached. I’m not a big guy now and was probably all of 130 pounds back then and I swear I must have gone fully horizontal before my partner on the opposite side shut the throttle! I can still feel the blisters on my hands from that day. As for mechanical advantage, I’m pretty sure the auger had the upper hand that day…


----------



## Dhal22

AGCB97 said:


> I have a Milwaukee that won't stop fer nuttin. I never use it anymore without a 3 or 4 foot cheater on the extra mount opposite the handle anchored to something immovable. Same with an old aluminum frame 1/2" drill.
> 
> The Milwaukee caught once and wound the cord several times around my wrist before it stopped.
> Aaron



The Milwaukee Hole Hawg will hurt/ kill you.   A beast of a drill.


----------



## 682bear

I went junk store shopping and brought these home...




Two stackable card files for $15. I'll use them for tooling storage...

-Bear


----------



## francist

I have a few of those, they work nicely for milling cutters or such.


----------



## FOMOGO

My dad had an old 3/4" hand drill and was using it to prime an IH truck engine he had rebuilt. I think I was about 12 at the time. Well that thing pinned him to the firewall of the truck with the trigger somehow locked on. Good thing I was there to pull the plug. I have a holehog, and a Milwaukee 9" grinder, and You really want to make sure you have a hold of them when using. They can do some major damage to the uninitiated. Mike



WobblyHand said:


> Had an ex boss of mine that used one of these to drill a hole through his house to install a laundry vent.  He was pushing it inward too close to him when the hole saw jammed.  The pipe handle came around and knocked him unconscious.  Sometime later his wife came around looking for him and found him out cold next to the wall.  Fortunately for him, he survived without serious problems.
> 
> Tools give a user serious mechanical advantage, but can kill us in a moment if we aren't thinking while running them.  Be alert when using power tools.


----------



## Janderso

wachuko said:


> Got a new toolbox to place the 9x20 lathe…
> 
> In the photo is my brother on the right and on the left, a good friend of his…
> 
> View attachment 413079
> 
> 
> From 619.00 ended paying 420.00 after coupon and additional manager discount of 10%… Made a slot on the butcher block to slide on top…


I have one of these tool boxes. I love it.
Good deal!!


----------



## Janderso

mmcmdl said:


> I quit buying and let them multiply by themselves . Here's my latest haul ( pic 1 and 2 )moved to the basement . Maybe double this to haul down later tonight . Add them to pic 3 and 4 which are already down and waiting for attention .


If you leave the male and female tools together at night........ watch out!!


----------



## DiscoDan

I like unusual tool designs. I bought these over the weekend at the Tuckahoe Steam and Gas Association flea market during our big show


----------



## brino

DiscoDan said:


> I like unusual tool designs. I bought these over the weekend at the Tuckahoe Steam and Gas Association flea market during our big show



........and you resisted the two beside it?

How?

Brian

EDIT: I see know, that was ALL your haul. You bought all three. Good Choice!
Brian


----------



## WobblyHand

Received some tooling from @mattthemuppet2 and a TI board from DigiKey.  Here is the stuff from Matt.


Some chamfer mills, a couple of long end mills, some jobber drill bits to eliminate most of my HF drill bits from my life, a bunch of assorted taps and a set of reamers (wrapped in white).  Decent haul.  Everything looks pretty good.  Next order of business is to find all my spare tubes, so I can stuff in the reamers.  Don't want them banging around.

The TI board was for an ELS, the Clough42 version.  However, the board was on back order so long (6 months) that I designed my own from a Teensy 4.1 and wrote my own code.  I am close to finishing the code, so I will probably sell the TI development board in the for sale section, as I have no use for it.  On July 2nd, I received a notification, the board would be delayed another month.  I was about to cancel the order on July 2nd, but as I was writing the email, I received a shipment notification.  

Lets see, what else?  I brought home the stainless table from @mmcmdl and have to make a place for it (inside!).  Right now it is outside, hey, it is stainless, a little rain won't bother it.  Identified a spot inside but, have to rearrange things.  I think Dave would understand 


Lastly, my plants are happy that I am back, here is a fig that I am growing in a pot.  Started it from a cutting two years ago.  Looking forward to eating those big juicy figs.  I have to bring the fig in for the winter, as freezing temperatures will kill it.  The two figs that are ripening are about 2" long and 2" in diameter.


Not pictured, is some 80/20 that I picked up from Dave as well.  It's laying on the floor at the moment, got to pick it up and find a place for it.  Plan to make a cart from it, as well as a lathe tool holder.


----------



## mmcmdl

WobblyHand said:


> I think Dave would understand


----------



## mmcmdl

If this keeps up , I'll soon be receiving threatening PM's from everyone's SO . I must remain anonomous !   Although I do find the outdoor 80/20 furniture quite good looking !


----------



## great white

Well, I certainly don’t need another vintage drill to add to my collection, but I’ve been watching this one for a couple days and when it got up to “8 watchers”, I caved to the desire to own it before someone else ”caved” before me:







Montgomery Ward Powr-Kraft TPC-9242a variable speed reversible drill. I’d guesstimate its from somewhere in the early to mid 60’s.

Its the “expensive” one that they carried being the top of that particular model line. Still, nothing remarkable about it (as a functional tool) compared to its contemporaries.

But what put it over the top for me was this:







The body is engraved. From the pics, it looks very well done, especially if that has been done by hand.

I’ve never seen that before was n a drill. At least not on a run of the mill department store special. So either it was some sort of “special edition” or someone cared about it enough to have it done and protect it from work scars all these years.

It certainly does have the look of something that was cherished by its owner (came from an estate sale). Perhaps he was an avid outdoorsman or it was a special gift from someone.

Its the engravings and the fact someone cared about it that make it worth adding to my old drill collection.

Hard to complain either way with it only being 50 bucks to my door.

I’ll gladly be its next caretaker for the 30 or 40-odd years I have left on this spinning ball of rock.



Sadly, I doubt there will be another caretaker for this old warrior after me. Kids just don’t seem to have much interest in this type of thing anymore…


----------



## matthewsx

Palmgren Slide Rotary table. Local to me (Rowe Machinery) for $225. Needs cleanup but looks to be in good condition.




John


----------



## jbobb1

Won an eBay auction for a Starrett 199 precision level but won't see for a few days. Had someone try to snipe me, but luckily my max bid was just high enough!


----------



## 682bear

francist said:


> I have a few of those, they work nicely for milling cutters or such.
> 
> View attachment 413376



That is exactly what I was planning to do with them...!

Great minds think alike!

-Bear


----------



## woodchucker

Janderso said:


> If you leave the male and female tools together at night........ watch out!!


Mine seem to run away


----------



## great white

Just ordered a NOS Atlas chuck from HHRoberts in Ontario:




Last guy I could find talking about them said his came in orginal packaging, original dried ip grease and a date stamp of “1979”.

Geoff (sales guy) says they’ve still got a couple skids of the Atlas chucks and 5” Bison 3 jaws.

I’m hoping this was built before the mass “Chinacization” of most machining equipment….will be nice to have a fresh 4 Jaw chuck of decent quality for a change. My Atlas has an original 4 jaw, but its got a fair bit of wear and can be a little “sloppy” sometimes.


----------



## projectnut

matthewsx said:


> Palmgren Slide Rotary table. Local to me (Rowe Machinery) for $225. Needs cleanup but looks to be in good condition.
> 
> View attachment 413465
> 
> 
> John


I purchased an identical one that was originally purchased by the company I worked for.  We had several dozen of them.  They were originally purchased as mounting platforms for labeling machines.  With the X and Y features as well as the rotary function labels could be precisely placed on different size packages.  When packaging changed the labelers and rotary tables were pulled from production and stored in a warehouse.  Over the years many found new homes in the machine shops and the research department.

When the shops were closed a colleague of mine bought several at an auction.  I bought one from him and he still has a few in his commercial machine shop.  I don't use mine on a regular basis.  It does get used occasionally for smaller parts because it's much easier to move around than the 12" model.


----------



## matthewsx

projectnut said:


> I purchased an identical one that was originally purchased by the company I worked for.  We had several dozen of them.  They were originally purchased as mounting platforms for labeling machines.  With the X and Y features as well as the rotary function labels could be precisely placed on different size packages.  When packaging changed the labelers and rotary tables were pulled from production and stored in a warehouse.  Over the years many found new homes in the machine shops and the research department.
> 
> When the shops were closed a colleague of mine bought several at an auction.  I bought one from him and he still has a few in his commercial machine shop.  I don't use mine on a regular basis.  It does get used occasionally for smaller parts because it's much easier to move around than the 12" model.


Yep, I don't expect it will get too much use but will come in handy at times and it's the right size for my mill/drill. Hope to have the CNC working soon for complex stuff but couldn't pass this one up at the price.

John


----------



## wachuko

Bought a few things to redo the pulley assembly…

1/2” oil wick… only needed like 3 pieces of 1-1/2”… minimum length sold is 5’ 

Also, turns out the pulleys I ordered were not the correct size…. Need a Delta 932 pulley…




Oh, and the pencil sharpeners arrived!


----------



## great white

Needed a K4 key for my 18N and ran across this on ebay:




It’s a K4 key with a K3 gear welded to it. The K4 looks virtually unused and the K3 is in good shape, although showing some wear. I was thinking of cutting off the K3 and cleaning the K4 back to oem condtion, but the dual head is beginning to grow on me…


----------



## woodchucker

great white said:


> Needed a K4 key for my 18N and ran across this on ebay:
> 
> View attachment 413625
> 
> 
> It’s a K4 key with a K3 gear welded to it. The K4 looks virtually unused and the K3 is in good shape, although showing some wear. I was thinking of cutting off the K3 and cleaning the K4 back to oem condtion, but the dual head is beginning to grow on me…


I wouldn't touch that, that's great.


----------



## NCjeeper

Well I broke down and bought one. I really wanted to build my own beefy one. After I got my steel prices quote for over 1500 bucks for the I beam, and 5x5 tubing, and other pieces, I figured it was cheaper to buy the HF version. It does have good reviews.


----------



## wachuko

NCjeeper said:


> Well I broke down and bought one. I really wanted to build my own beefy one. After I got my steel prices quote for over 1500 bucks for the I beam, and 5x5 tubing, and other pieces, I figured it was cheaper to buy the HF version. It does have good reviews.
> View attachment 413647


I went through the same thought process... ended up buying one as well... between the cost of material, taking time to build it, etc.... it was easier, faster, and cheaper to just buy it made...   I was looking at that HF unit as well, but I ended with a 2-Ton unit from Northern Tool...  I needed it to lift the milling machine...




Oh, and almost badly injured my wife as well... she was helping me to stand up the crane when the 2"x10"x6' I was using fell off my hands and went right for her.... she felt the breeze as the board passed by her face... ... another failed attempt ... We joke about it now...

Anywho... you are going to love lifting stuff with it... so freaking easy.


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> I went through the same thought process... ended up buying one as well... between the cost of material, taking time to build it, etc.... it was easier, faster, and cheaper to just buy it made...   I was looking at that HF unit as well, but I ended with a 2-Ton unit from Northern Tool...  I needed it to lift the milling machine...
> 
> View attachment 413652
> 
> 
> Oh, and almost badly injured my wife as well... she was helping me to stand up the crane when the 2"x10"x6' I was using fell off my hands and went right for her.... she felt the breeze as the board passed by her face... ... another failed attempt ... We joke about it now...
> 
> Anywho... you are going to love lifting stuff with it... so freaking easy.


my garage isn't tall enough for one


----------



## Brento

As promised. Here is my new stub drill index full of drills from @mattthemuppet2. Almost full and still have extras of others. Now to order my missing ones and i am done buying drills lol.


----------



## woodchucker

Brento said:


> As promised. Here is my new stub drill index full of drills from @mattthemuppet2. Almost full and still have extras of others. Now to order my missing ones and i am done buying drills lol.


That's what you think.


----------



## Brento

Only 118.18 for the missing drills from McMaster. Not sure where else i can get drills especially the little wire sizes as singles.


----------



## woodchucker

Brento said:


> Only 118.18 for the missing drills from McMaster. Not sure where else i can get drills especially the little wire sizes as singles.


You know you won't need most of them.
If you study up on tap /drill sizes, that's mostly what you will need.
Not to say you won't need others, but most of the time it's limited to tap/drill combo sizes.


----------



## Brento

That is true. Especially the small wire sizes. It would be best to look at my tap charts like you said and then start a list and pick up the rest as i go.


----------



## great white

Brento said:


> Only 118.18 for the missing drills from McMaster. Not sure where else i can get drills especially the little wire sizes as singles.


For thise who live in Canada and are considering a similar drill index:



			https://www.princessauto.com/en/327-pc-titanium-drill-bit-set/product/PA0008644734
		


327 piece set, with the index box. $129 CDN.

I’ve got one. the box is nice, but not branded and the drills seem to be doing a good job and wearing well. Having a spare for each bit is a nice touch In case one breaks.

Not sure if they ship to the states. Probably more likely to find similar products at Harbor Freight.

Not trying to sell anything here, just passing on what I think was a good deal…


----------



## wachuko

great white said:


> For thise who live in Canada and are considering a similar drill index:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.princessauto.com/en/327-pc-titanium-drill-bit-set/product/PA0008644734
> 
> 
> 
> 327 piece set, with the index box. $129 CDN.
> 
> I’ve got one. the box is nice, but not branded and the drills seem to be doing a good job and wearing well. Having a spare for each bit is a nice touch In case one breaks.
> 
> Not sure if they ship to the states. Probably more likely to find similar products at Harbor Freight.
> 
> Not trying to sell anything here, just passing on what I think was a good deal…


That is a good deal... similar set from Northern Tools goes for 189.00





__





						Ironton Titanium Drill Bit Set  327-Pc. | Northern Tool
					

This Ironton® 327-Pc. Titanium Drill Bit Set is a must for all well-stocked garages or workshops! You get a standa...




					www.northerntool.com


----------



## great white

wachuko said:


> That is a good deal... similar set from Northern Tools goes for 189.00
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironton Titanium Drill Bit Set  327-Pc. | Northern Tool
> 
> 
> This Ironton® 327-Pc. Titanium Drill Bit Set is a must for all well-stocked garages or workshops! You get a standa...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.northerntool.com


Whoops. Looks like they went "out of stock" until August between the time I posted the original reply and this one.....


----------



## mattthemuppet2

woodchucker said:


> That's what you think.


Exactly - I haven't told him yet about the aircraft extension drills I have yet  Very handy for drilling holes a long distance away. I have one about 4ft long, it's almost a social distancing drill 

For extras, Amazon often has name brand packs for cheap, eg
#11 Cle-line 135deg stubby


----------



## BGHansen

Brento said:


> As promised. Here is my new stub drill index full of drills from @mattthemuppet2. Almost full and still have extras of others. Now to order my missing ones and i am done buying drills lol.


Sure. . .  "Honey, I PROMISE I won't buy any more drill bits from @mattthemuppet2!  I need more drill bits like I need a hole in the head!  Hey, he probably has some of those bits in the basement!"

Bruce


----------



## Brento

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Exactly - I haven't told him yet about the aircraft extension drills I have yet  Very handy for drilling holes a long distance away. I have one about 4ft long, it's almost a social distancing drill
> 
> For extras, Amazon often has name brand packs for cheap, eg
> #11 Cle-line 135deg stubby


I dont need any long drills lol. Plus that long drill is a foot shorter then me!  On second thought. How much for that drill shipped?


----------



## mattthemuppet2

BGHansen said:


> Sure. . .  "Honey, I PROMISE I won't buy any more drill bits from @mattthemuppet2!  I need more drill bits like I need a hole in the head!  Hey, he probably has some of those bits in the basement!"
> 
> Bruce


the questions are really "how big of a hole in the head do you need?" and "how hard is your head?". Once you let me know that, I'll see what I have that would work 


Brento said:


> I dont need any long drills lol. Plus that long drill is a foot shorter then me!  On second thought. How much for that drill shipped?


tempting, but then what would I do if I needed to drill a hole 4ft away? I'd be hopping mad I sold it!


----------



## BGHansen

mattthemuppet2 said:


> tempting, but then what would I do if I needed to drill a hole 4ft away? I'd be hopping mad I sold it!


Or fold it in thirds, probably fit in a medium flat rate box!


----------



## Brento

mattthemuppet2 said:


> the questions are really "how big of a hole in the head do you need?" and "how hard is your head?". Once you let me know that, I'll see what I have that would work
> 
> tempting, but then what would I do if I needed to drill a hole 4ft away? I'd be hopping mad I sold it!


I cant even fit it in my lathe. Its about just as long as my lathe bed.


----------



## Just for fun

I got a bunch of drill bits, taps, end mills, reamers and red boxes from @mattthemuppet2 today.  We'll some of the stuff I got a few days ago, so this is round two.  No photos but looks a lot like the stuff everyone else has posted.   Thanks Matt

Tim


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Brento said:


> I cant even fit it in my lathe. Its about just as long as my lathe bed.


I did once have to drill a hole in a joist through a hole in another joist, so you never know, I might need to do that again one day!


Just for fun said:


> I got a bunch of drill bits, taps, end mills, reamers and red boxes from @mattthemuppet2 today.  We'll some of the stuff I got a few days ago, so this is round two.  No photos but looks a lot like the stuff everyone else has posted.   Thanks Matt
> 
> Tim


you're very welcome Tim!


----------



## Dhal22

Just for fun said:


> I got a bunch of drill bits, taps, end mills, reamers and red boxes from @mattthemuppet2 today.  We'll some of the stuff I got a few days ago, so this is round two.  No photos but looks a lot like the stuff everyone else has posted.   Thanks Matt
> 
> Tim




Same.   Pounds and pounds of goodies.   Thanks Matt!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Well I appreciate everyone's help in getting through this pile


----------



## woodchucker

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Well I appreciate everyone's help in getting through this pile


so how does one get in on this? Do I need to send you a list of what I need?


----------



## pontiac428

I bought something today.  It's a bit of a treat, but I can't wait to play with it.  The boring head ball turner I made is not very rigid or precise.  This one is!  Any larger, and I'd need a jib hoist to attach it.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Yep, that's the idea  It's been a bit of a make it up as you go thing after I took a break from eBay at the end of last semester, which is why I've been lax about advertising it. I think it all came about because Wobblyhand needed a reamer


----------



## WobblyHand

At the time, I needed just one reamer!  Thanks to @mattthemuppet2 I have a lot more than that!  And drills, and end mills and chamfer mills and taps.  Still sorting them out!  Thanks Matt!


----------



## Brento

WobblyHand said:


> At the time, I needed just one reamer!  Thanks to @mattthemuppet2 I have a lot more than that!  And drills, and end mills and chamfer mills and taps.  Still sorting them out!  Thanks Matt!


I think your missing an “Oh My!!!” in there somewhere.


----------



## Gnpenning

WobblyHand said:


> At the time, I needed just one reamer!  Thanks to @mattthemuppet2 I have a lot more than that!  And drills, and end mills and chamfer mills and taps.  Still sorting them out!  Thanks Matt!


 Something similar happened to me, I swung by for a glass of water and ended up buying a lake!!  

Might have been your post that got me looking to see what Matt had for sale.  Hey wait a minute, it might be all your fault!!!

Thanks guys .


----------



## IamNotImportant

Ok, scored on a lil over 70 feet of 6061-T6 .750 round bar for 33 bucks



There isn't any copper plate right now to make soft jaws with.. but they did have some of this, thinking of getting some of it, it is solid round bar of copper, approx .325 in dia.


----------



## woodchucker

IamNotImportant said:


> Ok, scored on a lil over 70 feet of 6061-T6 .750 round bar for 33 bucks
> View attachment 413865
> 
> 
> There isn't any copper plate right now to make soft jaws with.. but they did have some of this, thinking of getting some of it, it is solid round bar of copper, approx .325 in dia.
> View attachment 413866


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


>


i feel privileged..


----------



## IamNotImportant

i have no clue how much that copper is by the pound, but def going to get some..


----------



## IamNotImportant

there is some square (solid) steel stock there to.. i want some of it.. but i don't know what kind it is, but they have a gun to check it for me.. i am interested in getting some of that as well


----------



## matthewsx

Mostly showed up today. 

TMX R8 collet set
Shars 3/8” R8 tool holder
R8 to 6JT arbor
Bridgeport face mill arbor for the Kennametal face mill I already had 
Dremmel cutoff wheels & stuff
Rubber sheet for rear of mill table
Yes welder auto darkening helmet

Some ordered from ebay
Some ordered from Penn Tools almost two weeks ago
Some Amazon prime day specials. 
All will get used soon.


----------



## wachuko

Got a Logan 820 lathe…on my way back from St. Petersburg to Orlando…









						My Logan 820 Lathe Journey
					

I might be jinxing myself... but could not wait to share...   So I always wanted a vintage looking small lathe, those that have read my threads are probably tired of reading this from me time and time again... but everything I would find would be snatched before I could even see it or asking...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## Dhal22

WobblyHand said:


> At the time, I needed just one reamer!  Thanks to @mattthemuppet2 I have a lot more than that!  And drills, and end mills and chamfer mills and taps.  Still sorting them out!  Thanks Matt!




I haven't even started on my pile.


----------



## Brento

Dhal22 said:


> I haven't even started on my pile.


Mine is all sorted in the new index.


----------



## WhyW8

Bought a KBC Grip 16 Drill/Mill today...  Funny thing is that, as I was messaging the guy I asked if he had an engine hoist of some other equipment to lift it into my truck..NO.  Well shoot We'll have to break it down for handling, which we did...  But here is the story:

  No joke.. I get a call from the guy who cuts my wife hair and he tells me that there is some kind of engine stand/lift in the dumpster out behind his place of work.  So hey I'm out the door in my truck and at the dumpster in record time.

Sure enough a 1000 lbs engine hoist is sticking out of this dumpster, Score....  The bad is that someone had over loaded it and BADLY deformed the base tube that the mast base bolts to and there was only one outrigger, so me being the hands on guy... I say to my self a little plasma and welding work and I have a free hoist- short one out rigger.  So I unbolt the sections and load it in my truck.  As I driving down the service alley I get this thought... I wonder if the missing outrigger is one of the adjacent business' dumper, So I stop and look inside the very next dumpster and NO joke there is the other outrigger.

So tomorrows project is to rebuild the hoist and use it to reassemble the Mill I have in the back of my truck.... I Love days like this... too bad, being in my 60's this is the first day I've had like this...


----------



## pontiac428

That is one very fine Rong Fu pattern mill!  I mean, that is dee-luxe.  And a metal belt guard, no less.  

Good story, too!


----------



## Brento

I bought a label maker finally. Now i need to pick up some magnets and i can start labeling my shop like i want. 30$ from Sams Club


----------



## ChazzC

Brento said:


> I bought a label maker finally. Now i need to pick up some magnets and i can start labeling my shop like i want. 30$ from Sams Club


Magnets?


----------



## IamNotImportant

ChazzC said:


> Magnets?


my guess is that his cabinets are all metal and he don't want to put stickers directly on the metal, this gives you the option to rearrange things as needed.. pretty smart..


----------



## Brento

IamNotImportant said:


> my guess is that his cabinets are all metal and he don't want to put stickers directly on the metal, this gives you the option to rearrange things as needed.. pretty smart..


Exactly. I have a craftsman tool box that has regular mechanic tools in it as well as a drawer for drills and another for reamers. But im constantly moving stuff around. I just rearranged my drill index to put taps inside.


----------



## woodchucker

Brento said:


> Exactly. I have a craftsman tool box that has regular mechanic tools in it as well as a drawer for drills and another for reamers. But im constantly moving stuff around. I just rearranged my drill index to put taps inside.


The Brother labels pull off quite easily.  I used to use magnets too. I didn't like the magnets moving when I didn't want them too. I just put the labels on the cabinets now.


----------



## Brento

woodchucker said:


> The Brother labels pull off quite easily.  I used to use magnets too. I didn't like the magnets moving when I didn't want them too. I just put the labels on the cabinets now.


It will depend on the location of where i put them.


----------



## 7milesup

Picked up 3 sheets of 60 thou. 5052 aluminum.  60"x 41 to 48" wide.
A little less than $20 each at scrap price. There are some imperfections like a rippled edge or maybe roller marks.
Also picked up some other panels. The numbers are weights of each. $1.18/lb


----------



## WhyW8

pontiac428 said:


> That is one very fine Rong Fu pattern mill!  I mean, that is dee-luxe.  And a metal belt guard, no less.
> 
> Good story, too!



Nope ..  the pulley cover is plastic --- on a high note I did get it assembled today.   Now I just need to work on the "align" auto feed that came with.  I seem to be missing a couple of items for that unit


----------



## Brento

Looks good!  I am happy with my 30$ purchase today.


----------



## pontiac428

A Vaughan ball pein hammer, a clean Albrecht chuck with a prior owner who wrote his name three times on it, and a very large, very German live center for the Nardini.


----------



## ChazzC

Bought last week on FB Marketplace, but when they arrived the case, foam (and even the steel parts) stank – tossed the foam, sanitized the case & pieces, then found & cut new foam:



Harig Super Wee-Blocks (https://harigmfg.com/superwee.html https://www.penntoolco.com/harig-super-wee-blocks/). I also replaced the as-received 6-32 SHCS which were in rough shape with new ones fitted with Shear-Loc knobs (come back soon to see what this resulted in).

The Super Wee-Blocks are similar to my Fowler X-Blox Jr (https://www.travers.com/product/fowler-52-475-025-0-v-block-clamp-57-071-111) which I got at a great price on eBay a little over 2 years ago, when I had even more time on my hands:



Biggest difference is that the Harig Wee-Bocks include "bridges" that allow for long stock to be held; now that I have seen these I'll have to make a bridge for the X-Blox Jr.


----------



## Brento

ChazzC said:


> Bought last week on FB Marketplace, but when they arrived the case, foam (and even the steel parts) stank – tossed the foam, sanitized the case & pieces, then found & cut new foam:
> 
> View attachment 414233
> 
> Harig Super Wee-Blocks (https://harigmfg.com/superwee.html https://www.penntoolco.com/harig-super-wee-blocks/). I also replaced the as-received 6-32 SHCS which were in rough shape with new ones fitted with Shear-Loc knobs (come back soon to see what this resulted in).
> 
> The Super Wee-Blocks are similar to my Fowler X-Blox Jr (https://www.travers.com/product/fowler-52-475-025-0-v-block-clamp-57-071-111) which I got at a great price on eBay a little over 2 years ago, when I had even more time on my hands:
> 
> View attachment 414238
> 
> Biggest difference is that the Harig Wee-Bocks include "bridges" that allow for long stock to be held; now that I have seen these I'll have to make a bridge for the X-Blox Jr.


Ive seen them around. Thought about getting a set but had no use for them. Yet.


----------



## IamNotImportant

ok.. so i picked up today.. 28 feet of 2 inch round 6061-T6 and about 15 feet of 1.5 inch as well.. 129.00


----------



## woodchucker

IamNotImportant said:


> ok.. so i picked up today.. 28 feet of 2 inch round 6061-T6 and about 15 feet of 1.5 inch as well.. 129.00
> 
> View attachment 414273



*You are SUCKING SO BAD
There should be a law.
Call the cops... you are stealing it.*


----------



## extropic

@IamNotImportant

If I ever get to Kingsport, TN, will you take me to your scrap metal dealer?  

Your haul is about $1.04 per pound. That's close to half the cost of short drops around here.


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> *You are SUCKING SO BAD
> There should be a law.
> Call the cops... you are stealing it.*


----------



## IamNotImportant

extropic said:


> @IamNotImportant
> 
> If I ever get to Kingsport, TN, will you take me to your scrap metal dealer?
> 
> Your haul is about $1.04 per pound. That's close to half the cost of short drops around here.


sure.. we'll make a trip and see what they got.. they have two buildings.. we can pillage..


----------



## IamNotImportant

friday, i spied a pile of those electrical boxes.. you know.. ones that you use to put VFDs and things like that in.. ones that looked like they were in the 200 buck range or more.. i was temped to grab a few.. if i get a chance to go back later this week and they are still there.. i might do that. i am waiting for more copper plate.. and yes.. those copper rods.. i figured out how i want use them.. so i will try to get quite a few them


----------



## Aukai

If you wish to sell any of the 2" 6061 8 pieces of 2" x 24" will fit in the long flat rate box if you can still find the box.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Aukai said:


> If you wish to sell any of the 2" 6061 8 pieces of 2" x 24" will fit in the long flat rate box if you can still find the box.


i plan on using every bit of it that i can..


----------



## IamNotImportant

extropic said:


> @IamNotImportant
> 
> If I ever get to Kingsport, TN, will you take me to your scrap metal dealer?
> 
> Your haul is about $1.04 per pound. That's close to half the cost of short drops around here.


thing is.. we have the Eastman Kodak Company here..


----------



## AGCB97

IamNotImportant said:


> those copper rods.. i figured out how i want use them.. so i will try to get quite a few them


If you can get more than you need cheap, I'd be interested in buying some from you.
I want to make a few custom electrodes for the spot welder. Need to be 5/8" round or slightly larger would work.
Thanks
Aaron


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Aaron, if that doesn't work out I think I have a couple you can have. Not that large though, 1/2" max.


----------



## IamNotImportant

AGCB97 said:


> If you can get more than you need cheap, I'd be interested in buying some from you.
> I want to make a few custom electrodes for the spot welder. Need to be 5/8" round or slightly larger would work.
> Thanks
> Aaron


deal.. looks like they prob going to sell it for about 3.50 a pound.. just guessing.. they are paying 2.80 for it.. it will depend on what time i get done tomorrow with my clients..


----------



## IamNotImportant

AGCB97 said:


> If you can get more than you need cheap, I'd be interested in buying some from you.
> I want to make a few custom electrodes for the spot welder. Need to be 5/8" round or slightly larger would work.
> Thanks
> Aaron


just noticed the size.. these are not that big around.. smaller than that for sure..


----------



## pontiac428

I got me a FIMS #4 parting blade holder!  I need to re-cut the jaws, they're kinda chomped.  I bet they are gonna be hard...


----------



## woodchucker

IamNotImportant said:


> thing is.. we have the Eastman Kodak Company here..


I didn't know Kodak was still in business around there. I know that they got a lucrative contract from the gubrmnt a while back.. can't remember what for, but I remember reading that they had no experience in that field, and it raised a lot of eyebrows.


----------



## IamNotImportant

they make proponents for the fuel for the Patriot Missile System that much i do know


----------



## IamNotImportant

pontiac428 said:


> I got me a FIMS #4 parting blade holder!  I need to re-cut the jaws, they're kinda chomped.  I bet they are gonna be hard...
> 
> View attachment 414317


i seen that pen and at 4:30 am, i am going.. "what are you doing with my pen!"


----------



## AGCB97

Thanks for the copper rod offers, but I really do need 5/8". Even those get hot quick with multiple welds.
Aaron


----------



## great white

Ran across an eagle oiler on ebay for 25 bucks (seller was asking 40, but sent me an offer of 25) so I figured I'd try one and see what the fuss is all about:




Reported to be working and they seemed to really like the word "patina".

Patina?

You mean wear and corrosion?

"Cause that's what "patina" actually is.......


----------



## pontiac428

IamNotImportant said:


> i seen that pen and at 4:30 am, i am going.. "what are you doing with my pen!"


----------



## woodchucker

pontiac428 said:


>


WTF was that?


----------



## great white

woodchucker said:


> WTF was that?


Kids in the Hall. Canadian comedy group from the 80's.

If you don’t “get” Monty Python then you probably won’t get KiH…


----------



## IamNotImportant

great white said:


> Kids in the Hall. Canadian comedy group from the 80's.
> 
> If you don’t “get” Monty Python then you probably won’t get KiH…


Burn her!


----------



## woodchucker

IamNotImportant said:


> Burn her!


I loved Monty  Python. Never saw Kids in the Hall..  But in the 80s, I was busy with many things, didn't spend it in front of the TV.
Cruising on the motor cycle, going to bars to hear bands, just a lot of time out of the apartment.


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> I loved Monty  Python. Never saw Kids in the Hall..  But in the 80s, I was busy with many things, didn't spend it in front of the TV.
> Cruising on the motor cycle, going to bars to hear bands, just a lot of time out of the apartment.


The only Kanadian tv programming i ever watched was SCT.. Primarily for Bob and Doug.. but yes.. Monty Python and Bennie Hill were great.. 
One of my fave skits is this one


----------



## woodchucker

IamNotImportant said:


> The only Kanadian tv programming i ever watched was SCT.. Primarily for Bob and Doug.. but yes.. Monty Python and Bennie Hill were great..
> One of my fave skits is this one


Bennie Hill was great too. I used to watch Both on PBS in the 70s.


----------



## great white

IamNotImportant said:


> The only Kanadian tv programming i ever watched was SCT.. Primarily for Bob and Doug.. but yes.. Monty Python and Bennie Hill were great..
> One of my fave skits is this one


Umm, fair warning here -pet peeve time: 

Nothing personal, but it's spelled *C*anadian, not *K*anadian

We don't spell "United States of America" wrong or make fun of it with strange spellings/sayings (well. most of us don't), please don' t do it to us.

Probably a pet peeve for me because I served my country for 30 years in the RCAF, so I've probably got a wee bit more national pride than your average Canuck.

/pet peeve


----------



## ChazzC

I was on eBay again! After using up my last #6 Shear-Loc knobs on the Wee-Blocks, I needed more – I found NOS/Open Box #6, #8 & #10 from two sellers and added them to my meager collection of Shear-Loc samples I got early last year (not free - I emailed them a FedEx label) in their own box:



Yes, the box is a little empty, but think of what other sizes I can buy now. The knobs in the right-most row are 1/4, 5/16 & 3/8 Lever Shear-Loc Knobs that came as an unexpected bonus when I bought this metric set that came up during my search for 1/3 of the regular price (also saved $10+ net on shipping as it was a local pickup):



In this case (Ha!), I added the handful of M3, M4 & M5 samples to the kit box.


----------



## DavidR8

ChazzC said:


> I was on eBay again! After using up my last #6 Shear-Loc knobs on the Wee-Blocks, I needed more – I found NOS/Open Box #6, #8 & #10 from two sellers and added them to my meager collection of Shear-Loc samples I got early last year (not free - I emailed them a FedEx label) in their own box:
> 
> View attachment 414389
> 
> Yes, the box is a little empty, but think of what other sizes I can buy now. The knobs in the right-most row are 1/4, 5/16 & 3/8 Lever Shear-Loc Knobs that came as an unexpected bonus when I bought this metric set that came up during my search (also saved $10+ net on shipping as it was a local pickup):
> 
> View attachment 414390
> 
> In this case (Ha!), I added the handful of M3, M4 & M5 samples to the kit box.


I'd never heard of Shea-Loc knobs till your posts so thanks for the introduction. Handy bits of kit!


----------



## WhyW8

Bought a 3 Axis DRO Kit with RPM indicator for my Drill/Mill machine


----------



## mattthemuppet2

WhyW8 said:


> Bought a 3 Axis DRO Kit with *RPM indicator* for my Drill/Mill machine



that's interesting, never seen one of those before with that function. Got a link?


----------



## WhyW8

mattthemuppet2 said:


> that's interesting, never seen one of those before with that function. Got a link?



DRO Ditron w/RPM


----------



## pontiac428

Just a heads up on the Ditron (great unit, BTW), you have to order it with the RPM input (and all axes you plan to use) but can't add it later.  They build the ports and firmware to order.  If you order one, get all the bells and whistles up front.  I didn't know the RPM feature existed when I bought mine.  Would be nice to have tool speed calculated for diameter and displayed in real time, eh?


----------



## koenbro

Quality air connectors, a ½” to 1/2” hose, a manifold, and 1/8” push connectors from McMasters. I will systematically replace all the leaky Home Depot connectors with these ones. I already installed a 5 stage dryer and filter and it has no (audible) leak. Gotta love quality components. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## BGHansen

koenbro said:


> Quality air connectors, a ½” to 1/2” hose, a manifold, and 1/8” push connectors from McMasters. I will systematically replace all the leaky Home Depot connectors with these ones. I already installed a 5 stage dryer and filter and it has no (audible) leak. Gotta love quality components.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


On my "list of good intentions" too.  I have a plethora of makes; need to pick a horse and replace everything to a common supplier.  Something about that steady "hiss" noise that drives me bonkers!

Bruce


----------



## Winegrower

pontiac428 said:


> Just a heads up on the Ditron (great unit, BTW), you have to order it with the RPM input (and all axes you plan to use) but can't add it later.



When a bunch of swarf got tangled in my DRO cables they pulled one of the cables off the reader head and in the process killed one of the ports on the D80.    So I bought another D80 on eBay...for $5 more I added the RPM function and they upgraded me to a third axis, no charge.

The RPM function comes with the hall effect sensor and a small assortment of tiny magnets, and now another project on the list is how to install them around the spindle somewhere.   The number of magnets used is configurable in the D80.   This should be a good feature.

Unfortunately, there are different pinouts for the slimline magnetic scales, that I have, and the "normal" scales, so my new unit won't directly run my scales.   I think it's just a matter of more sub D connectors and wiring up a converter module.   Slightly worse, it's a RS232 to RS422 conversion also.

So that's a higher priority project.   The list grows more than it shrinks, it seems.


----------



## wachuko

This thread Removing riveted plates for lathe restoration reminded me that I needed to get a set of pliers to remove the drive screws from some of the projects that I have been working on... so far I have gotten by with cutting a slot and using a flat head screwdriver with a wrench...




Always forgetting to get the pliers...  well... finally ordered an ENGINEER PZ-58 and PZ-57 Screw Removal Pliers.






And I swear that was all I was going to get... somehow these two items were in the cart and ordered without me noticing...  I am a sucker for gadgets...

Tool post indicator



Parallel separator


----------



## pontiac428

I got me a clean dog drive plate in D1-6 mount for the Nardini, because working between centers is as good as it gets .


----------



## Eyerelief

I need me one of them dogs


----------



## wachuko

Ordered the Diamond Tool Holder set in 1/2" and an additional table kit... from Eccentric Engineering...  

Bought some 1/2 PVC pipe to start practicing with threading... scary stuff  for this guy...


----------



## woodchucker

wachuko said:


> Ordered the Diamond Tool Holder set in 1/2" and an additional table kit... from Eccentric Engineering...
> 
> Bought some 1/2 PVC pipe to start practicing with threading... scary stuff  for this guy...


threading is not scarry. Just practice a few times. make an undercut for a stopping point and it makes it easy.  Initially you will find you are reacting in haste to stop the carriage, but after a while it slows down, and you will find you are gentler on disengaging the half nuts..


----------



## francist

I never did the PVC practise thing, most likely because I figured why waste some perfectly good PVC pipe and never use it when I can sweat making my first threads in steel!

I agree it’s not really that scary, but for a beginner in anything there’s a certain apprehension at doing it for the first time. I think I watched every video from three or four different guys each using their own method for cutting threads before I even went down to the lathe. I would sit there in the living room mentally going through the motions as I watched. Then I’d go to the lathe and just do a few dry passes, sometimes not even under power, just to rehearse the sequence of what I wanted to do. Then one day it was just time — I jumped from the nest, flapped my wings, and by gosh it actually worked!

After that I was like an ant to sugar and still can’t wait for an excuse to cut some threads. You’ll get there too — just run at your own pace, take your time learning a way that works and makes sense for you, and you’ll know when you’re ready to make the jump.

-frank


----------



## extropic

wachuko said:


> Ordered the Diamond Tool Holder set in 1/2" and an additional table kit... from Eccentric Engineering...
> 
> Bought some 1/2 PVC pipe to start practicing with threading... scary stuff  for this guy...


I clicked the link for the Diamond Tool Holder set to check out the current price. However, they don't show the price. "Contact us" seems the only way to attempt an order. Was that your experience?


----------



## wachuko

extropic said:


> I clicked the link for the Diamond Tool Holder set to check out the current price. However, they don't show the price. "Contact us" seems the only way to attempt an order. Was that your experience?


Let me fix the link… price should show up



			https://eccentricengineering.com.au/shop/12mm-2-tool-holders-L-H-R-H-p178589797
		





They have 5/8”, 3/4", 1" if your lathe can support it…

Going with 1/2” to be able to use in the smaller Logan lathe as well…


----------



## extropic

wachuko said:


> Let me fix the link… price should show up
> 
> 
> 
> https://eccentricengineering.com.au/shop/12mm-2-tool-holders-L-H-R-H-p178589797
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 414619
> 
> 
> They have 5/8” if your lathe can support it…



Thanks. I think the problem is that I declined their cookies, so they don't want to do business with me. Interesting marketing style. 

The tangential tools are a great way to go. Totally easy to sharpen and your steel will last a very long time. Just grind a little radius on the leading edge so you're not cutting micro-threads all the time. I hope you post a review after you get some experience with them.


----------



## wachuko

extropic said:


> Thanks. I think the problem is that I declined their cookies, so they don't want to do business with me. Interesting marketing style.
> 
> The tangential tools are a great way to go. Totally easy to sharpen and your steel will last a very long time. Just grind a little radius on the leading edge so you're not cutting micro-threads all the time. I hope you post a review after you get some experience with them.


Did you see the review from Doug Gray?









						Diamond or Tangential Tool Holder
					

I just picked up one of these Diamond Tool Holders, here is a video of me putting it thru it's paces. Spoiler: I think this will be my go-to tool for turning facing and chamfering for the foreseeable future.




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## erikmannie

I just bought a TMX R8 shank 7/8” end mill holder:









						7/8
					






					www.suncoasttools.com
				








__





						8-510-0030   - R8 End Mill Holder, 7/8in - Toolmex Industrial Solutions
					

8-510-0030 R8 End Mill Holder, 7/8in, Toolmex Industrial Solutions




					www.toolmex.com
				




$92.71 delivered. I have been using a 7/8” R8 collet, but R8 collets above 3/4” have a poor design.


----------



## great white

couple old jacobs chucks:





It's a 14n and a 3A. the 14n just looks mostly neglected, the 3A is a different story. I had the seller take a picture of the jaws inside the chuck and they both look reasonably good. some wear, but hard to tell how bad staring at pictures.

The 3A looks like someone has been using a hammer and punch to tighten and loosen it. I'll see if it can be cleaned up enough to not look like a beaver has been gnawing on it and if not, maybe see if I can pic up an nos sleeve or maybe another junk chuck with a decent barrel/sleeve.


----------



## great white

Also grabbed another Eagle 66:




It (along with the other one I grabbed) will get a full rebuild, dent removal and polished to a high mirror shine. 

That will be the end of those for me though. 

One will live on the lathe, one on the mill.....


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a TMX R8 shank 3/4” end mill holder:









						R8 End Mill Holder, Steel, 3/4" 8-510-0025
					

R8 End Mill Holder, Steel, 3/4" 8-510-0025 Best Prices for Government and Enterprise Buyers. Discounts and Free Shipping.




					www.govets.com
				




$109.52 delivered after a 5% off coupon code. It is backordered, so that’s fun.





__





						8-510-0025   - R8 End Mill Holder, 3/4in - Toolmex Industrial Solutions
					

8-510-0025 R8 End Mill Holder, 3/4in, Toolmex Industrial Solutions




					www.toolmex.com


----------



## wachuko

Bought a lamp for the Logan lathe...  Needs some TLC... will color match to the lathe...


----------



## Friendly non murdering Sword

The parcel delivery wasn't too happy with me today. He had to hand me two packages probably 35kg (77lbs) each by hand:

For one there is a small machine shop that sells offcuts on eBay where I like to fill up my material storage. This is what I auctioned for ~70€ incl. shipping this time:




The other package was a Röhm mill vise I got for 320€ new with 150mm (5,9") jaw width and 300mm (11,8") max. opening (a little more info in this thread)


----------



## mmcmdl

My delivery people just throw packages into the front yard sometimes . I would have to believe they would throw those 2 /\/\/\ through one of my wind shields !  77 lbs each ?


----------



## WhyW8

Well I needed a Dial Test Indicator so off to OfferUP I go...  So you know how hard it is not to buy other things..  HELLO other items, walk away with:
12" dial caliper made in china
set Maxi-Kut fly cutters 3/4", 1", 1.5" and 2" - I already have lots of HSS blanks
Z Axial preset gauge
small clamp on vise thrown in a small bonus
 -- and the item I set out to buy? Mitutoyo 513-104 DTI


----------



## AmericanMachinist

DavidR8 said:


> I'd never heard of Shea-Loc knobs till your posts so thanks for the introduction. Handy bits of kit!


There is a brief moment talking about shear-lock knobs in this video.  The shop tour is great.  Not worth watching to learn about shear-locks but great shop tour regardless.


----------



## Brento

I got this nice dividing head for 650$. It was listed on ebay for 1000 and facebook for 800. I was able to get him down to 650.  Very excited for this. The 3" riser blocks will be nice to have as well. With this i can get into doing what i have been wanting to do with my shop when i started. I can get into doing more job shop work with gear repairs.


----------



## Larry$

Brento said:


> I bought a label maker finally.


I finally bought a Brother label maker about 6 months ago. Seems to work well but wastes tape with a rather long lead in & out. Try to make as many labels as it will permit as one long part then cut with scissors.


----------



## erikmannie

Larry$ said:


> I finally bought a Brother label maker about 6 months ago. Seems to work well but wastes tape with a rather long lead in & out. Try to make as many labels as it will permit as one long part then cut with scissors.



I have one of those. It is very useful!


----------



## Brento

Larry$ said:


> I finally bought a Brother label maker about 6 months ago. Seems to work well but wastes tape with a rather long lead in & out. Try to make as many labels as it will permit as one long part then cut with scissors.


If you mess with the settings you can save a lot of tape. You can save the first inch unfortunately but if you mess with the tab settings you can save a lot of tape.


----------



## K30

Snagged some Starrett stuff on the cheap.


----------



## francist

Looks like a nice workbench peeking out from under those sexy red boxes too…


----------



## Brento

K30 said:


> Snagged some Starrett stuff on the cheap.
> View attachment 414702
> View attachment 414703
> View attachment 414704
> View attachment 414705


Curious to know how much that all cost  im jealous of them both.


----------



## K30

Brento said:


> Curious to know how much that all cost  im jealous of them both.


Not cheap, but compared to what they would have been new, it sure seemed like a deal.  Especially given the condition!


----------



## pontiac428

My abrasive chop saw has lived a hard life.  I've been pushing it and pushing it for a long time, and it's starting to groan.  Okay, it's been groaning and screeching since Clinton left office, and is now threatening to die sooner rather than later.  So when I came home from shooting the state USPSA pistol match over the weekend, this was on my porch waiting for me (not my shop photo, I still need to unbox it!) :


----------



## Just for fun

Very Nice John,  I have an Evalution saw like that, and it works well.  I don't have a table like that though.


----------



## Winegrower

I found this really great trepanning tool on eBay, $50.   It came with 10 good looking inserts and looks like a high quality part.   It's a 1" shank, won't fit smaller lathes.    It covers 30mm to 50mm diameter face grooves, but it looks like with a little grinding, the range could be expanded some.


----------



## pontiac428

Just for fun said:


> Very Nice John,  I have an Evalution saw like that, and it works well.  I don't have a table like that though.


My dad built a really nice table for my abrasive saw (which I will rebuild and keep for the gnarly stuff) that has too small of a base to use with the Evolution saw, so I went ahead and bought the turn-key table at the same time as the saw.  It's stout and it folds, not bad!  Plus having supports on the table means I have a second roller stand free for longer stock.  I did feel funny about buying what I can build, but time and material put in is time and material diverted from something else at the moment.  I guess I'm getting old when my paychecks are bigger than my energy level and available free time.


----------



## snoopdog

Stopped by harbor freight, I needed another light above my bench. One of the 4ft double leds (27$) was in my mind, well they were out of those on display. So I grabbed a single (22$) and just stood there knowing it wasn't what I needed, when an employee came by, asked her about any of the doubles in the back maybe? Well there were some of the quad leds high up on another shelf,(49$) marked at the single price of 22$. I asked if that was right and she checked, and no it was mismarked, but she let me have them for that, WOOHOO! Grabbed 2, and let there be light!


----------



## Eyerelief

@snoopdog 
I have a pair of those quads, one above the lathe and one above the mill.  Light as a feather and put out tremendous light.  Really like mine.


----------



## hman

Isthis the light?








						3 in. LED Flood Light
					

Amazing deals on this 3In Led Flood Light at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




					www.harborfreight.com


----------



## wachuko

hman said:


> Isthis the light?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 in. LED Flood Light
> 
> 
> Amazing deals on this 3In Led Flood Light at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.harborfreight.com



I think it is this one... 









						10,000 Lumen, 4 Ft. Linkable Diamond Plate LED Hanging Shop Light
					

Amazing deals on this 10,000L 4 Bank Linkable Shop Light  at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




					www.harborfreight.com


----------



## NCjeeper

I just spent over 300 bucks with Shars. Ordered some tooling for my Jet Lathe.


----------



## wachuko

Got an inexpensive live center for the Logan...  Also got an assortment of set screws...


----------



## snoopdog

wachuko said:


> I think it is this one...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10,000 Lumen, 4 Ft. Linkable Diamond Plate LED Hanging Shop Light
> 
> 
> Amazing deals on this 10,000L 4 Bank Linkable Shop Light  at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.harborfreight.com


That's it


----------



## erikmannie

I bought this. This is a really low price for this set:




$360.55 including sales tax and free delivery. This is from MSD Direct.


----------



## WhyW8

Bought these a few days ago, just arrived today.  Noga PH2040  - $49.14 delivered to the door for both


----------



## pontiac428

WhyW8 said:


> Bought these a few days ago, just arrived today.  Noga PH2040  - $49.14 delivered to the door for both
> View attachment 415403


Hey now, that's not Amazon packing material... so, you gonna tell us where to find that crazy deal?

Edit:  Okay, looks like All Industrial with a coupon... not bad!  I'm in!


----------



## WhyW8

pontiac428 said:


> Hey now, that's not Amazon packing material... so, you gonna tell us where to find that crazy deal?
> 
> Edit:  Okay, looks like All Industrial with a coupon... not bad!  I'm in!


That' s the place.  Use Subscribe10 for 10% off. 

 it's always nice to have several holder in arms reach


----------



## Ben17484

I bought a mill! It’s an Astra L4 (I think, maybe L2). Astra seems to be the UK branded CST. I really couldn’t find much about it on the internet, but at the price I paid it has to be worth it. It’s a horizontal and vertical mill. Seems to have had an easy life and came with a bunch of tooling. It’s being delivered on Monday. I’ll probably make a thread about it so at least there’ll be some info for anyone who may Google about this model in the future. 








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## snoopdog

Finally got together with my marketplace seller after our schedules collided for 2 weeks, picked up this set. Then stopped by the local flea market and picked up the oil can and nibblers.


----------



## Doug Gray

Wiss scissors. It all started at a garage sale I purchased the top pair for $2, thinking I got a great deal. The remorse set in later at home as I tried to adjust the tension, I couldn't get it right ( I think the hinge bolt may be missing a washer or something) I any case they won't cut well over the length of the blade. So I decided I would purchase new, very happy with my purchase, they work great.. maybe just a tad large ... a person can always use two pair one for the office one for the shop... so purchased the the bottom pair and they are awesome. Moral of the story always check out your $2  garage sale items carefully mine cost me $120 . Later today I will post the top ones for free in the buy and sell area you just have to pay postage.


----------



## hman

Just for fun, I looked for Wiss scissors on Amazon.  They all seem to be under or near $40 a pair.  If you spent $120 on two pair, I think you may have paid too much.



			Amazon.com : wiss scissors


----------



## BGHansen

I've been really delinquent on posting tools for the day.  Probably missed a few but these are over the last several months.


Couple of rolls of sandpaper off eBay for around $10 a roll



A bunch of 1/4" carbide end mill with radiused corners.  I've got a job on the Tormach that is pretty rough on end mills, my poor programming of the tool path.  Instead of spiraling the cutter (I think the term is adaptive cutting) while travelling around the blank, it's programmed to just plow on through.  The program really does a job on the corners of the end mill.  I've heard really good things about corner radius end mills, will give these a try.  Of course, modifying the program would be a smarter move, on my "list of good intentions".





Click-bait TOTAL FAIL!  I've got an upcoming project to organize my combo wrenches which will require cutting a bunch of 10-24 & 1/4-20 threaded rod to length.  I saw a video for this chamfer tool, but my results weren't even close to the video.  It's supposed to work like a pencil sharpener on rod/cut-off bolt stock.  Nope, doesn't even make a chip.  The problem is there's no back-relief on them.  They work as well as grinding a drill bit with no relief.  I guess they "work" if all you want to do is heat up the end of a rod.  Total waste of money; inserted directly into the trash.  I like the concept, might end up being a POTD to made something using some carbide inserts.  At least it was only around $5.


Problem is the cutting edge is not proud of the meat of the tool.


My hope was to either bandsaw or bolt-cut threaded rod and clean up the ends.  No go with this POC.





M12 1/2" drill.  I have a few 3/8" drive but no 1/2", tired of dragging a cord.  Got it for around $65 off eBay.



Frivolous eBay purchase of a bunch of 10-24 thread-forming taps.  The lot was $0.99 plus $9 shipping.  I've had pretty good luck with thread-forming taps, but probably won't wear these out in my lifetime.



A number of my project involve cutting 16, 18 or 20 gauge sheet metal.  I like having at least 1 1/2 teeth in contact with the work to keep from hammering the blade.  I have some 1/4" 32 tpi stock, but usually have a 1/2" blade on my DoAll band saw.  Picked up about 90' of 1/2" 32 tpi stock so I can swap to a really fine blade without having to change the saw's blade guides.  Somewhere around $30 off eBay or ~$4 per 10' blade.



I've got a Harbor Freight 7x12 horizontal band saw which takes 3/4" x 93" blades.  Found a coil 100' coil of 3/4" 14-tpi stock off eBay for $30 including shipping.  Should be a lifetime supply.  I'd prefer bi-metal, but this roll will make up 12 blades for less than the cost of 1 ready-made blade.




My DoAll's blade welder can go up to 1" though the widest I'd welded was 1/2".  The only adjustment is current (?) through a pot.  I usually "develop" the weld by starting with 2" pieces of blade stock, just easier to handle.


I don't know what's proper for blade position when welding blades.  My preference is to put the teeth against the stop instead of the back of the blade.  Doing it this way keeps my fingers off the teeth when pushing the blade up to the stops.  I pull the weld lever to do the heavy work, then hit the anneal button several times to anneal the blade.  Remove the blade, dress it on the blade grinder, then re-anneal (annealing below).


I figure if the blade weld doesn't snap when coiled into a "three-sie", it'll hold fine on the larger diameter wheels.  No issues on the DoAll welding 3/4" wide stock.




Thanks for looking, Bruce


----------



## wachuko

I keep looking for a USA made 20-Tons hydraulic press at a decent price but so far nothing available locally…

This one (Harbor Freight) showed up two days ago and the owner agreed to hold it for me until today…

Also got a bunch of open combo wrenches and one end open wrenches…

When I got there he had the press with three hydraulic bottles… two air driven (12 and 20-Tons) and the stock 20-Tons manual bottle…

200.00 for all.  Not a smoking you-suck deal, but a fair one….








A bunch of larger wrenches…



China wrenches, largest one is 2”




USA




German (well, one in this group is from Japan)





He had a few other stuff for sale… I might need to go back…


----------



## mattthemuppet2

This is what 200lb of steel and cast iron looks like 



And this is what $200 of shopping looks like   Pizza was yummy though!


----------



## Aukai

All of the air driven hyd. press combinations I saw when I wanted to upgrade were only drive up to 10 tons. that may be the reason it's mounted on the12 ton bottle.


----------



## Gaffer

I've wanted these for years, but couldn't bring myself to part with the money because I always found a solution albeit frustrating. Last weekend I was inconvenienced for the last time. They are really nice!


----------



## Brento

Gaffer said:


> I've wanted these for years, but couldn't bring myself to part with the money because I always found a solution albeit frustrating. Last weekend I was inconvenienced for the last time. They are really nice!
> 
> View attachment 415646


Ive looked at them many times myself.


----------



## matthewsx

Yeswelder ARC205-DS


----------



## erikmannie

All A36 steel:

(1) Four 5” X 10”, 1” thick bar,
(2) 10’ of 3/4” wide, 1/4” thick bar,
(3) 2’ 5” of Sch 40 6” pipe.

I went to the LSS for the plate welding coupons and backing strap bar, and I saw the pipe in the scrap bin! I guess that I will have 6” pipe welding coupons now.

$242 for everything, including tax.

I will the bevels & landings on the the plate & pipe just as soon as I wrap up my current project.


----------



## pontiac428

Finally getting around to replacing tools that grew legs around other people.  I had a collection of Armstrong ball pein hammers from the early '80s, now I don't, so I've started replacing them with Vaughans, because American hickory feels best in the hands.  I still need a few more.




My second accomplishment of the wallet was piecing together a wee starter kit for knurling on the new lathe. 




I couldn't keep the song out of my head.  I changed it to "Knurls, Knurls, Knurls!" to suit the occasion:


----------



## wachuko

Aukai said:


> All of the air driven hyd. press combinations I saw when I wanted to upgrade were only drive up to 10 tons. that may be the reason it's mounted on the12 ton bottle.



Not sure... the seller was not there... he just left everything in the garage for me to pick up.  His wife open the garage and told me that all that was mine...   It is a 20-Ton press that comes originally with a manual 20-Ton bottle...  I left the air driven 20-Ton bottle jack in place.




So these become spares in case that 20-Ton bottle fails... 

The 12-Ton looks to be fairly new and like it has not seen use...




And this is what the press originally came with... again, looks like he took it off as soon as he got it...




I have a smaller 12-Ton press as well, but that one now goes to a friend... much smaller and less rigid for my liking...


----------



## wachuko

Got an ER32 chuck for the Logan 820...I like its compact size...  *Anyone here with the same setup??*





Saw it in a video from a channel I follow...He went with ER25... but since I already have ER32 collects, went with that size instead...


----------



## wachuko

I was waiting for these to be back in stock...  Got an email over the weekend that they are back!  So I ordered one.  Sold by a fellow forum member.

6" x 12" Fixture Plate With 1/4-20 Clamp Set


----------



## NCjeeper

My order from Shars arrived. 1.5" boring bar. 1" boring bar. 2 turning tools. Another one of their DTI's.


----------



## NCjeeper

16 dollar E-bay score.


----------



## NCjeeper

Picked up this decimal chart antiquing.


----------



## pontiac428

NCjeeper said:


> My order from Shars arrived. 1.5" boring bar. 1" boring bar. 2 turning tools. Another one of their DTI's.



What do you think of the Shars toolholders, compared to Valenite, Carboloy, Kennametal?  I've got my cart loaded, but I still seem to think that I can hand-pick used tool holders from the morass that is eBay.  Well, probably not if I want to stick to just a handful of insert sizes.  If they lock up solid and have good fit and finish, I might pull the trigger on Shars.


----------



## NCjeeper

I have been happy with the Shars holders. If you have the time and patients to surf E-bay then you can probably score some better deals, Usually the holders I run across have had a rough life and that is why they are for sale. Every now and then you can get some NOS at a good price. what size are you looking for?


----------



## Aukai

Price check PM holders too, IIRC from before they were a couple of dollars cheaper, and decent quality.


----------



## NCjeeper

I just ordered a 50 tonner. The 20 ton press I have did not have enough ass for the last project I did.


----------



## Gaffer

NCjeeper said:


> I just ordered a 50 tonner. The 20 ton press I have did not have enough ass for the last project I did.
> View attachment 415874


I've used my 20 ton quite a bit and it still scares me at times. A 50-ton might give me a heart attack!


----------



## ChazzC

wachuko said:


> Got an ER32 chuck for the Logan 820...I like its compact size...  *Anyone here with the same setup??*
> 
> View attachment 415801
> View attachment 415802
> 
> 
> Saw it in a video from a channel I follow...He went with ER25... but since I already have ER32 collects, went with that size instead...


I have a similar compact ER32 chuck for my 7x16 mini lathe. I had an ER25 3MT chuck, but wanted something I could use with longer stock. I also found a source on eBay for “over-sized” ER32 collets (22, 22, 23, 24 & 25mm) so I didn’t need to get an ER40:









						ER32 -21 22 23 24 25 Spring Collet Set For BT40-ER32 CNC Milling Lathe Machine  | eBay
					

ER32 Collets. Spring Collet Set for CNC milling Lathe Tool & Workholding Engraving machine! Can be used for clamping drill, milling Tool, straight shank tool. Use with any standard ER collet chucks for coolant-thru tool applications.



					www.ebay.com


----------



## pontiac428

These arrived today.  M*FR@KKIN rabbithole... just get a few to turn this way or that, oh I have a bunch of these inserts, ooh that could be useful...


----------



## Brento

I didnt buy it but got these all for free. Anyone have any experience with these spindles? The guy i got it from tried selling it and no one wanted it. I took it figuring maybe i can use it. If not maybe one of you fine folks could use it or trade for it or something of the sort. I couldnt let it go to the dump.


----------



## 682bear

An ebay find...




I purchased this for my current Hendey lathe project... it has a few nicks in it, but overall, it's not too bad for $20...

-Bear


----------



## Dhal22




----------



## erikmannie

I bought a used Criterion S-1-1/2" boring head (1-1/2" x 1-1/2" square head) with a 3/4" diameter, 3” long shank for $99 plus plus tax plus $11.65 shipping.

The item description did not specify whether this accepts 1/2” or 3/8” boring bars, but 1/2” units appear to be more common. I will use brazed carbide.










My internet search for a small boring head (mostly on eBay) took over 2 hours. Along the way, I learned that you can buy this head new for $168.60, but this does not include a shank:









						CRITERION BORING HEAD1-1/2X1/2 - 20400
					

Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.




					www.penntoolco.com


----------



## NCjeeper

Press arrived today by truck.


----------



## Christianstark

Found this little guy on Craigslist the other day while in NC. Will be a fun project breathing life back in to it, and putting it to work.








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## erikmannie

New USA made 1/2” shank brazed carbide boring bars, quantity 2 for $40.54 delivered. They can start in a hole as small as 5/16” and go down to 1-1/8” deep.


----------



## WhyW8

Ordered a milling vise a few days ago, not a Kurt but it should serve me well to start out.   -  it arrived while I was out on a material run.


A Tool and Die company is going out of business (Owner retiring) so they advertised materials for sale.... so off I went.  Purchased 100# aluminum, 10# brass bar , some SS round rod and 57# misc steel, some Delrin, Nylon - and he threw in four (3/16"x 2'x10') sheets of Lucite acrylic all for $190


----------



## IamNotImportant

WhyW8 said:


> Ordered a milling vise a few days ago, not a Kurt but it should serve me well to start out.   -  it arrived while I was out on a material run.
> View attachment 416243
> 
> A Tool and Die company is going out of business (Owner retiring) so they advertised materials for sale.... so off I went.  Purchased 100# aluminum, 10# brass bar , some SS round rod and 57# misc steel, some Delrin, Nylon - and he threw in four (3/16"x 2'x10') sheets of Lucite acrylic all for $190
> View attachment 416245
> View attachment 416246
> View attachment 416247


you remind me.. i need to go back to the scrap yard.. maybe tomorrow.. if i can


----------



## pontiac428

They opened a Harbor Freight in my area this week!  No more $6 bridge toll or traffic to go buy chinese tools.  I decided to try one of their fancy premium air hoses, since mine are all worn and bulging.  The cup holders look a lot like oil can holders to me, so I got two to try in different colors for spindle and way oil that I can stick to a machine.  If the socket organizers work out, I'll go back for more.  I thought I would cheap out so I bought the Milton knock off tire inflator (for only $6 less than the real Milton, as it turns out) but it seems like a nice tool.  All my other inflators have deteriorated, so I'm happy to have at least one decent one.  And I got some more paint guns, because I won't break down and spend hundreds on a good setup and seem to get by with wearing out and replacing cheapies instead.  Shrug.  That's HF for you, you don't buy a tool, you buy a renewable subscription to one and buy it over and over.


----------



## Gaffer

pontiac428 said:


> They opened a Harbor Freight in my area this week!  No more $6 bridge toll or traffic to go buy chinese tools.  I decided to try one of their fancy premium air hoses, since mine are all worn and bulging.  The cup holders look a lot like oil can holders to me, so I got two to try in different colors for spindle and way oil that I can stick to a machine.  If the socket organizers work out, I'll go back for more.  I thought I would cheap out so I bought the Milton knock off tire inflator (for only $6 less than the real Milton, as it turns out) but it seems like a nice tool.  All my other inflators have deteriorated, so I'm happy to have at least one decent one.  And I got some more paint guns, because I won't break down and spend hundreds on a good setup and seem to get by with wearing out and replacing cheapies instead.  Shrug.  That's HF for you, you don't buy a tool, you buy a renewable subscription to one and buy it over and over.
> 
> View attachment 416296


HF now sells high-volume fittings. The quality looks decent. I bought Flexilla hoses and fittings before HF got into the business.


----------



## pontiac428

Gaffer said:


> HF now sells high-volume fittings. The quality looks decent. I bought Flexilla hoses and fittings before HF got into the business.


I have a RapidAir compressed air piping system sitting waiting to install in the shop.  When I do, I will definitely try the 1/2" high-flow fittings and hoses to go from the RapidAir tap to my blast cabinet.  I paid 5 grand for that fancy Quincy compressor, I sure wouldn't want a tight QD to bottleneck my system (see critical orifice)


----------



## Christianstark

pontiac428 said:


> That's HF for you, you don't buy a tool, you buy a renewable subscription to one and buy it over and over.



So true.


----------



## Gaffer

pontiac428 said:


> I have a RapidAir compressed air piping system sitting waiting to install in the shop.  When I do, I will definitely try the 1/2" high-flow fittings and hoses to go from the RapidAir tap to my blast cabinet.  I paid 5 grand for that fancy Quincy compressor, I sure wouldn't want a tight QD to bottleneck my system (see critical orifice)


I have the RapidAir plumbed in my garage too. You'll love it!


----------



## Janderso

I found this Baldor 3/4 hp grinder on Craigslist.
The 8100 series grinders like this can be had today for around $2,100 plus shipping.

It runs smooth as glass but needs a bit of TLC.
Everything is there except.
New wheels, a couple mounting washers and a new fabricated rest.
I bought this for $300.
Score!!

I mounted it, dressed both wheels (36 and 80 grit)

It is so nice to step up to a powerful smooth running grinding wheel with an adequate rest.
Grinding HSS tooling now will be a real pleasure.

The pic of the Dewault 8” grinder shows where it’s been since I bought it.
What a piece of junk.
On the other hand, there is $2,000 difference between the two Grinders.


----------



## mmcmdl

They are nice Jeff . I have one holding down my Bridgeport at the moment .


----------



## Eyerelief

Very nice Jeff


----------



## Christianstark

Janderso said:


> I found this Baldor 3/4 hp grinder on Craigslist.
> The 8100 series grinders like this can be had today for around $2,100 plus shipping.
> 
> It runs smooth as glass but needs a bit of TLC.
> Everything is there except.
> New wheels, a couple mounting washers and a new fabricated rest.
> I bought this for $300.
> Score!!


I would have loved to have found that.


----------



## Daphharr

mmcmdl said:


> They are nice Jeff . I have one holding down my Bridgeport at the moment .


Mine is leveling up my Monarch 10ee. JK  I have an older Baldor and love and fear the thing.  With the right setup they sure make your finish look amazing and deburr like nothing else.


----------



## Janderso

Daphharr said:


> Mine is leveling up my Monarch 10ee. JK  I have an older Baldor and love and fear the thing.  With the right setup they sure make your finish look amazing and deburr like nothing else.


“Leveling up my Monarch EE”

What the heck does that mean?
I think you’re just showing off


----------



## Daphharr

Janderso said:


> “Leveling up my Monarch EE”
> 
> What the heck does that mean?
> I think you’re just showing off


Yeah... just kidding around.  I have Chinese machines!  But if I had a Monarch it would probably be so clapped out that it would work!


----------



## Janderso

Daphharr said:


> Yeah... just kidding around.  I have Chinese machines!  But if I had a Monarch it would probably be so clapped out that it would work!


----------



## Al 1

Yep,   I bought this today.  But I am not sure exactly what it is.  Al.


----------



## aliva

Had to buy a new read head for my lathe DRO Z Axis. Found a supplier in Canada but the price was a shocker at over $200.00 CDN. Checked Aliexpress and got a direct replacement for $40.00 delivered, in a little over a week. Very happy with results.


----------



## snoopdog

Picture heavy, I really, really suck, 3 franklins.


----------



## WobblyHand

You've done well!


----------



## FOMOGO

Very nice score there. Major suckage for sure. Mike


----------



## C-Bag

Congrats, nice score! Around here those kinds of machinist boxes on CL  $300 for just a top box filled with odds and ends. Obviously being sold by a relative who had no clue…..


----------



## snoopdog

C-Bag said:


> Congrats, nice score! Around here those kinds of machinist boxes on CL  $300 for just a top box filled with odds and ends. Obviously being sold by a relative who had no clue…..


Yeah, and the guy I got it off of, was flipping it! I didn't even try to dicker, which is very much against my nature, just kept my mouth shut and started loading it.


----------



## 682bear

The yearly 'worlds longest yardsale' was this weekend... it stretches from Alabama to Michigan. We go almost every year, usually to the part of the route that is in Alabama.

This year, we started in Crossville, Tennessee, and worked our way south, back toward Chattanooga, TN.

Along the way, I picked up a few items...

A pair of rubber chocks, 2 for $5...




2 flap discs for my angle grinder, also 2 for $5...




Four sturdy steel 30" stools, $15 each...




An adjustable C&O railroad wrench, $10...




An old Keystone hand cranked grinder, $40...







And a Walker-Turner scroll saw, complete except for the motor, I think... $45







I'm not sure why I bought the scroll saw... it was just interesting, I guess... 

-Bear


----------



## FOMOGO

You got some nice stuff there Bear. I really like the the stack-able stools. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be long before they turned into impromptu saw horses in my shop. Then morph back into butt holders for beer drinking. Mike


----------



## Janderso

I don’t know how much use you’ll get out of the hand grinder…..


----------



## projectnut

Janderso said:


> I don’t know how much use you’ll get out of the hand grinder…..



I would agree.  When we were kids my grandfather was a cabinet maker.  As kids we loved to crank the hand grinder he had clamped to one of his benches.  For some reason it was great entertainment.  That all changed when he decided it was time to sharpen a pile of chisels.  Since it was nearly impossible to get a good edge cranking with one hand and trying to position the chisel with the other, we got enlisted to power the grinder.

While it probably only took minutes to put a new edge on most of the tools it seemed like hours.  Somehow turning the crank trying to hold a constant speed wasn't nearly as much fun as trying to make it go as fast as possible.  It didn't take long to get bored with the new task and lose interest in cranking it altogether.


----------



## hman

I bought a Taig 2019 CR mini-mill yesterday.  I plan to build it out and equip it as a full CNC mill fora customer of mine ( Acorn CNC, 80/20 and Lexan enclosure, etc.)  Because I live less than 5 miles from Taig, I decided to go there and pick it up, rather than having it shipped.  They saved some packing/shipping costs that way, and gave me a nice discount.

I plan to post again as I make progress on this project.


----------



## mickri

Exchange the handle on the grinder for a sprocket and mount it on a bike frame.  Pedal away to your heart's content.


----------



## Winegrower

Matthewmuppet2 sent me an almost full set of good brand drills, fractions, letters and numbers in baggies.  So I bought a 115 bit drill index on eBay for $25 shipped.   This will give me two full sets of good drills and a drawer full of mystery bits.

Oh, and a few days ago I got a General 825 drill grinding stand, spent a couple hours trying to figure it out, get it mounted at the grinder, practicing, and finally did grind some excellent looking bits.  I like it!


----------



## Aukai

Went an a binge today on eBay. I went to bid on the brass hammers, and the ATP 3/4" HSS boring bar set was counting down, and I have the new boring head I got from Dave that uses those. I only had a few minutes to look them up, I hope they're worth 70 bucks.


----------



## NCjeeper

Got it in it's final resting place. Thanks to the forklift and a pry bar. You would think after you spend this much money on a press they can include 4 wedge anchor bolts. Nope. Just ordered some. I had a spare foot pedal so I plumbed that in.


----------



## Eyerelief

That red beast looks VERY NICE!


----------



## NCjeeper

Harbor Freight just called. My Gantry crane is in. Woot woot.


----------



## GoceKU

Last couple of times i've been on aliexpress, i've been looking and buying tire repair tools, with the tire machine i recently bought i want to be able to fix my own tires. And at the rate i've been getting screws in my tires it needs to happen sooner than later. I bought a tire scraper 3,5$, Stitcher for 4$, two rim protectors the orange ones for 2,5$ ad one more pry bar for 3,2$ also about 150 small tire patches, i've ordered the mushroom type from 3 different seller and they all turn out to be a fraud, also is hard to get the bigger patches. 2 orders of those also got cancelled, my thinking is when they see the shipping rate because rubber is heavy they simply cancel the transaction, i have more stuff on order i'm hoping something shows up.


----------



## Gnpenning

GoceKU said:


> Last couple of times i've been on aliexpress, i've been looking and buying tire repair tools, with the tire machine i recently bought i want to be able to fix my own tires. And at the rate i've been getting screws in my tires it needs to happen sooner than later. I bought a tire scraper 3,5$, Stitcher for 4$, two rim protectors the orange ones for 2,5$ ad one more pry bar for 3,2$ also about 150 small tire patches, i've ordered the mushroom type from 3 different seller and they all turn out to be a fraud, also is hard to get the bigger patches. 2 orders of those also got cancelled, my thinking is when they see the shipping rate because rubber is heavy they simply cancel the transaction, i have more stuff on order i'm hoping something shows up.
> View attachment 416645


Hopefully you have some good patch cement.  I have to put a thin film of Teflon sealer on the threads of the cap to keep the glue from drying out.  

Murphy's tire lube has been a big help for those tough to seat beads, it's a heavy paste if you haven't seen it. For normal beads I use a regular tire lube.  Ratchet strap or a cheetah blaster are helpful as well for the tough ones. 

I use a buffer on a die grinder to prep the area for the patches.

You may have a different solution for these things.


----------



## GoceKU

I've ordered 3 different tire glues but only one come intact in small 12g push tubes, it seams they all explode in transport. Here i have Neostik glue, that oldtimers use that i plan to be using, if i find better i'll buy it. For lube i've bought some hand soap liquid and bar soap and plan ti give that a try, its hard to get specific products here most of them have to be special order or are sold at warehouses that don't sell to the general public. I've found stuff like that when i wasn't looking, so i'll keep my eye out for proper tire ciment and Murphy's tire lube.


----------



## lordbeezer

Picked up a 6” craftsman today. Missing tail stock quill. Appears to be in decent shape. 50.00 plus hour drive each way. Has countershaft assembly and nice looking 1/3 hp motor.


----------



## Gnpenning

GoceKU said:


> I've ordered 3 different tire glues but only one come intact in small 12g push tubes, it seams they all explode in transport. Here i have Neostik glue, that oldtimers use that i plan to be using, if i find better i'll buy it. For lube i've bought some hand soap liquid and bar soap and plan ti give that a try, its hard to get specific products here most of them have to be special order or are sold at warehouses that don't sell to the general public. I've found stuff like that when i wasn't looking, so i'll keep my eye out for proper tire ciment and Murphy's tire lube.


Your challenges and options are so much different than ours.  I'm always impressed on what you accomplish.


----------



## matthewsx

Today was kinda epic. First I decided last night to order the 44” Harbor Freight toolbox. The wait was long so the clerk/ manager gave me 10% off and when I went to pay with my card the system gave me another 10%.









						44 in. x 22 in. Double Bank Roller Cabinet, Black
					

Amazing deals on this Black 44 Inch 13 Drawer Roller Cabinet at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




					www.harborfreight.com
				




Before that I bought a 2x72 belt grinder off Craigslist.




And from a different guy on Craigslist some taps, parallels








And this cool little Starrett tachometer thing.




Totally happy with my shopping spree. 

John


----------



## vtcnc

matthewsx said:


> Today was kinda epic. First I decided last night to order the 44” Harbor Freight toolbox. The wait was long so the clerk/ manager gave me 10% off and when I went to pay with my card the system gave me another 10%.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 44 in. x 22 in. Double Bank Roller Cabinet, Black
> 
> 
> Amazing deals on this Black 44 Inch 13 Drawer Roller Cabinet at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.harborfreight.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before that I bought a 2x72 belt grinder off Craigslist.
> 
> And from a different guy on Craigslist some taps, parallels
> 
> And this cool little Starrett tachometer thing.
> 
> Totally happy with my shopping spree.
> 
> John


Good deal on the cabinet.

RE: C/L deals....are we talking, "You Suck!" kind of prices, or "Not a bad deal" kind of prices??


----------



## matthewsx

vtcnc said:


> Good deal on the cabinet.
> 
> RE: C/L deals....are we talking, "You Suck!" kind of prices, or "Not a bad deal" kind of prices??


$250 for the belt grinder and same for the other stuff.


----------



## wachuko

You snooze, you lose... was looking on eBay at a Starrett depth gauge... should have hit buy-now... instead I kept looking at other listings and when I came back to the one I should have bought, it was gone... 

Anyway... will continue to keep an eye out for one...

Ordered this set (1/2" shank) for the Logan 820...


----------



## wachuko

Well... the 0-3" one for 40.00 got away... but found this one.  135.19 with shipping, it is 0-6" with ratchet stop and looks to be in pristine condition from the photos...


----------



## vtcnc

matthewsx said:


> $250 for the belt grinder and same for the other stuff.


OK, you suck. Nice haul!


----------



## wachuko

This going back and forth between the house in Orlando and Ocala kind of sucks... can't wait to finally move.   I kick myself every time I forget to take all the tools I need for a task... or when I forget to return them and need them in the other house...

This has pushed me to get a few things to keep at each place.  Recent purchase, that just arrived, was another center punch.  I was going to buy new, like the first one I got, until I saw how much it had gone up in price.  So used it was.

But I have a question, why three tips?  I am familiar with the pointy one... that is what my other center punch has... But where/when would I use the other two??








It is not like the other two make a good impression... this is on a piece of Delrin...

Impression made from left to right:  flat tip / concave tip / pointy tip


----------



## Daphharr

wachuko said:


> You snooze, you lose... was looking on eBay at a Starrett depth gauge... should have hit buy-now... instead I kept looking at other listings and when I came back to the one I should have bought, it was gone...
> 
> Anyway... will continue to keep an eye out for one...
> 
> Ordered this set (1/2" shank) for the Logan 820...
> 
> View attachment 416789


I just picked this up as well have not tried them yet.  Very excited to try these I have only used HSS.


----------



## extropic

@wachuko

I think the flat and conical concave tips are intended to remove and install small pins.


----------



## wachuko

extropic said:


> @wachuko
> 
> I think the flat and conical concave tips are intended to remove and install small pins.


Ahhhhh.  That makes sense.  Thank you!!


----------



## extropic

@wachuko 

I wrote conical. I meant concave.


----------



## wachuko

extropic said:


> @wachuko
> 
> I wrote conical. I meant concave.


No worries, I used the first word that came to my mind... still not sure if I used the correct one...


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Many long years ago I did a lot of electronics work on "wire wrap" boards. Some factory made and some my own designs. The punch for setting wire wrap pins turns out the same as the "automatic" center punches. Just with a hollow punch to fit the WW pins. The punch body seems to have had a number of uses over the years beyond the 30 deg punch. That is sort of where a personal "nickname" (WW) came from, way back when. . .

Your photo is for the three tips, only one of which is a center punch. The flat tipped on is probably for moving pins, driving them to a point that they can be grasped with pliers or "vise grips". The conical one strikes me as a nail set up front. I don't know where a nail set would fit in machine work and nail sets actually have 3 sizes. (by x/32nds) But the tip "could" be used as a nail set, though if I was doing carpentry work, a nail set is as necessary as a hammer. If the situation ever arose where a set was useful for mechanical work, it might prove useful. Setting small rivets maybe? If you could even find the tip when you needed to set those rivets.

.


----------



## Janderso

One inch end mill. I couldn't resist at this price.
I do not have a 90 degree indexable end mill.
Shoot, 8 inserts, free shipping and the end mill for less than $30.
It works, so far. The stick out is a bit excessive but there may be times I need the reach.
I didn't expect much but so far I am happy with it.



			https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PYYM1FM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details


----------



## extropic

Janderso said:


> One inch end mill. I couldn't resist at this price.
> I do not have a 90 degree indexable end mill.
> Shoot, 8 inserts, free shipping and the end mill for less than $30.
> It works, so far. The stick out is a bit excessive but there may be times I need the reach.
> I didn't expect much but so far I am happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PYYM1FM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details


The piece you linked is described as a 25mm end mill with a 25mm shank.
I'm wondering what you actually received.
The same Amazon page does list some fractional sizes at equivalently attractive prices.


----------



## wachuko

Funny... 3C collet set with drawbar arrived... I am placing it on the desk to take a photo to share, daughter walks in and says "Ooohhh that is so cute!"

I have to agree... photos do not convey a good visual on the size of these collets... these are tiny.  Looking forward to using them!

AAA battery placed next to one collet...


----------



## 7milesup

....


----------



## 7milesup

extropic said:


> The piece you linked is described as a 25mm end mill with a 25mm shank.
> I'm wondering what you actually received.
> The same Amazon page does list some fractional sizes at equivalently attractive prices.


I am wondering the same thing.


----------



## NCjeeper

Gantry crane came in. I really wanted to build my own, but after I got the quotes for the steel from my supplier it was way cheaper to buy one than build one. That is pretty sad really.


----------



## mmcmdl

2 sets of 10 SAE and Metric Williams ratchet wrenches to replace my original Armstrongs .


----------



## rwm

NCjeeper said:


> Gantry crane came in. I really wanted to build my own, but after I got the quotes for the steel from my supplier it was way cheaper to buy one than build one. That is pretty sad really.


Agree. When I look at the cost of raw material vs buying something like that made overseas, making your own often fails to make sense.


----------



## Eyerelief

NCjeeper said:


> Gantry crane came in. I really wanted to build my own, but after I got the quotes for the steel from my supplier it was way cheaper to buy one than build one. That is pretty sad really.


Think of more like a starting point. When your done tricking it out it will lift 8 tons without wobble and make you a sammich.


----------



## matthewsx

NCjeeper said:


> Gantry crane came in. I really wanted to build my own, but after I got the quotes for the steel from my supplier it was way cheaper to buy one than build one. That is pretty sad really.
> View attachment 416868



Im sure you could get a better price on steel if you bought in gross metric ton increments.


----------



## erikmannie

I just bought six miniature 1/2” shank boring bars. These are carbide tipped + they have a solid carbide stem. They are made in USA by APT.

I bought one MB2, two MB3s, one MB4 and two MB5s. These range from 3/32” to 3/16” minimum bore diameter. The range of bore depths is 15/32” to 15/16” max bore depth.

Total was $291.85.

I bought these from Wally’s Machinery on eBay.

Example screenshots:


----------



## BGHansen

erikmannie said:


> I just bought six miniature 1/2” shank boring bars. These are carbide tipped + they have a solid carbide stem. They are made in USA by APT.
> 
> I bought one MB2, two MB3s, one MB4 and two MB5s. These range from 3/32” to 3/16” minimum bore. The range of bore depths is 15/32” to 15/16” max bore depth.


Wow, 3/32" minimum?!?! Bet you'll be just skimming with that one!

Bruce


----------



## hman

BGHansen said:


> Wow, 3/32" minimum?!?! Bet you'll be just skimming with that one!
> 
> Bruce


As far as I can tell, the 3/32" number is the minimum bore diameter ... 15/32" max depth.  That might well be a useful cutting tool for smaller holes.


----------



## hman

mickri said:


> Exchange the handle on the grinder for a sprocket and mount it on a bike frame.  Pedal away to your heart's content.


----------



## erikmannie

BGHansen said:


> Wow, 3/32" minimum?!?! Bet you'll be just skimming with that one!
> 
> Bruce



3/32” minimum bore diameter. For me (I would want a space cushion here), the smallest I would use this for would be increasing the diameter of a 1/8” hole, and then not going any deeper than 7/16” (another space cushion for the tool shank).

They offer a 1/16”; I did not buy that, as I think that is too small for what I might ever need!


----------



## wachuko

Went to Lowes to get some spray paint and this followed me home... lowest toolbox I could find that would fit under the lathe... and not that expensive... all good there as well...




Now I need to make a base/tray with the casters on the side to keep it low.


----------



## Eyerelief

I know that price does not always a bargain make and brazed boring bars are not typically worth what they are paid for, but I have a Yuasa and Narex boring head that take 1" bars and my CXA Victor lathe does as well. Whenever I feel the need to put a creative edge on a boring bar, I always feel better about grinding up cheap ones.  I also like grinding a razor edge on them and using them on aluminum and plastic.  I decided to give these a go for the 1":
https://www.ebay.com/itm/134042102543.  I didn't feel I could get hurt too bad at $23 for a set of 7.  They have many more if anyone is interested.

I bought another item from them as well so they combined shipping, making me feel even better about it.  The other item was a wedge type Aloris CXA that looks virtually new for $185.  For some reason, this seemed like a crazy good deal to me.  I will replace my old piston Aloris with the wedgie.  I am not good enough to find fault with the piston, but I don't push my stuff much.


----------



## BGHansen

hman said:


> As far as I can tell, the 3/32" number is the minimum bore diameter ... 15/32" max depth.  That might well be a useful cutting tool for smaller holes.


Exactly, I figure a minimum bore of 3/32" means the bar is less than 3/32" in diameter.  I'd snap it off in a heartbeat!

Bruce


----------



## erikmannie

I bought this USA made 2-3/8” diameter HSS drill on eBay for $61.98 including tax & shipping.




You guys probably know that if you watch an item on eBay, sometimes the Seller will send you an offer for a lower amount after a period of time. In this case, the Seller waited 2 weeks, & then sent me an offer for 5% off.

If this shank doesn’t have Weldon flats, I am going to have to machine those because I plan to use this in a 1-1/2” end mill holder.


----------



## NCjeeper

^^^
Boy when that thing grabs as it is breaking through is going to be interesting.


----------



## erikmannie

NCjeeper said:


> ^^^
> Boy when that thing grabs as it is breaking through is going to be interesting.



I wonder what the weak link will be if the 3 HP motor can’t provide enough torque to keep the drill moving. This really makes the case for pecking, proper RPM and lubrication.

I have spun an R8 collet (actually an integral shank end mill holder) before (or perhaps the motor belt slipped); the seal between the collet & the spindle (or perhaps the seal between the motor belt & it’s pulleys) was the weak link. Here is what transpired:

After doing this many times: 1-1/4” HSS center cutting square end mill on a plunge cut going through 3/8” of 6061 aluminum & then immediately continuing through 1/4” of A36 steel.

After about a half dozen of these plunge cuts (with CF!), the end mill went through the aluminum fine but soon after it got into the steel, the end mill got hung up and the end mill did not rotate while the motor was running for the short time it took me to turn off the drum switch for the motor. I did *not* have a set screw for the keyway in the R8 collet before going in to this operation.

Writing that out leads me to believe that the motor belt slipped, but I’m not sure because it happened so fast. After the mishap, the end mill was still mated to the end mill holder. It seems to me that if the R8 collet spun then this would have necessitated re-tightening the set screws on the end mill holder.

*However*, after the event the cutter was no longer dug into the steel.

*I don’t understand what happened*, but at the time my impression was that the R8 collet spun in the spindle. Perhaps I was biased toward that impression because I knew that there is no set screw for the keyway in the collet.

I often spin the belt on my 1 HP lathe. I just turn off the motor as quickly as possible, & she always starts back up fine.


----------



## hman

Just in case it was the collet that slipped, check the tapered section for scoring or other damage.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

you probably chipped the teeth of the endmill on break through into the steel - speed and feed rates for the two materials are very different. Send it back to me and I'll touch up the cutting edges in exchange for a karma deposit.

Have to say though, endmills (even center cutting) kinda suck for punching holes in stuff. Save up your pennies and get yourself an annular cutter holder and a selection of annular cutters. You will NOT be disappointed, they are fricking awesome. Easy cutting and beautiful on size holes.

Edit: R8 arbor https://www.toolmex.com/catsearch/1233/r8-annular-cutter-holder

Straight shank https://www.toolmex.com/catsearch/1250/straight-shank-annular-cutter-holders

Or you could make your own straight shank adaptor, that's what I did


----------



## ChazzC

erikmannie said:


> . . . soon after it got into the steel, the end mill got hung up and the end mill did not rotate while the motor was running for the short time it took me to turn off the drum switch for the motor.


Suggest that you add a E-Stop so you can power off more quickly: not only possibly save your mill & tooling but also prevent (or minimize) injury.


----------



## 7milesup

Bought these on auction. The left one is .061 to .250 in .001 increments. Missing .078 & .157.  Second one is .251 to .500 in .001 increments. Missing the .411 gage.
The gage blocks are Fowler economy grade, 81 block set. Missing the .110 block but I already have a set so meh.
$110 for all 3.


----------



## Dhal22

7milesup said:


> Bought these on auction. The left one is .061 to .250 in .001 increments. Missing .078 & .157.  Second one is .251 to .500 in .001 increments. Missing the .411 gage.
> The gage blocks are Fowler economy grade, 81 block set. Missing the .110 block but I already have a set so meh.
> $110 for all 3.
> 
> View attachment 417075
> View attachment 417076




Wonder which one you will need first.............


----------



## 7milesup

Dhal22 said:


> Wonder which one you will need first.............


I just looked up the prices of those sets on Travers Tool website.  $950 for those three items.  I'm happy even though I'm missing a few pieces.


----------



## erikmannie

New, open box presumably HSS Swedish 6 flute 1-1/2” shank square end mill. $38.23 including tax & delivery. 

It looks like one of the corners has a chip in it. I anticipate the need to clean up the surface rust on the shank for it to fit in the end mill holder. 1-1/2” shank end mills are so much harder to find than 1-1/4” shank.


----------



## pontiac428

I like these ground clamps best.   Makes it easy to find a spot when working on vehicle chassis and has a larger capacity than the stamped ones.  Gotta love the bay sometimes, these were $15 apiece!


----------



## great white

DC motor speed control. Was cheap enough, so I grabbed it as a spare or maybe for a future project....


----------



## DAM 79

NCjeeper said:


> Gantry crane came in. I really wanted to build my own, but after I got the quotes for the steel from my supplier it was way cheaper to buy one than build one. That is pretty sad really.
> View attachment 416868


Congratulations Can’t wait to see it in action they are super handy and wish I had the room for one !!


----------



## NCjeeper

Here it is assembled. I also cross posted this in the POTD thread.


----------



## 7milesup

I bought this Kurt vise at the same auction that I purchased the gage pins and blocks.  It looked awesome, but when I got it home and moved the jaw, it turns out there is some pitting underneath.   It does not seem to affect the operation of the vise at all, but it kinda sucks that it is there.  
Considering that I paid an all-up price of $225 for it, I believe it was still a good deal.


----------



## WhyW8

Not sure, this might be even a better deal than the free engine hoist in the dumpster.  I picked up a small 26 gallon, 12 CFM air compressor for $60 --  

Got it home bolted the motor/pumps back onto the tank and gave it a test drive.....  Well one of the motors has a bad bearing. Disassembled the motor today and order new set of bearings $20.  Had to buy a new plug end and regulator.  All in $100 for a quiet air compressor. Even got an extra motor, which also needed a new bearing as well -  will repair for a spare or some other use.


----------



## pontiac428

Here's yours, again.



But at least you had to work for it a little bit.  That means you suck less.


----------



## WhyW8

Deals like this make it bearable to suck once in awhile


----------



## mattthemuppet2

7milesup said:


> I bought this Kurt vise at the same auction that I purchased the gage pins and blocks.  It looked awesome, but when I got it home and moved the jaw, it turns out there is some pitting underneath.   It does not seem to affect the operation of the vise at all, but it kinda sucks that it is there.
> Considering that I paid an all-up price of $225 for it, I believe it was still a good deal.
> 
> View attachment 417168
> View attachment 417169
> View attachment 417170


Pretty sure I have a rebuild kit for that which you can have for the price of postage


----------



## BGHansen

WhyW8 said:


> Deals like this make it bearable to suck once in awhile


Well, it was a compressor,  so you Blow, not suck!

Bruce


----------



## Doug Gray

I can finally get rid of all the sh#$ty snap ring pliers I have collected over the years


----------



## WhyW8

Older USA, 54 piece set of fractional tap and dies, excellent condition.. Found these through my normal offerup cruising  -- small world the seller and I attend the same church.


----------



## great white

Despite carefully labeling and marking all my electrical connections when taking the lathe apart, it seems my speed control is not working right. So I’m faced with pulling it all apart again and chasing down every connection. 

Ugh.

Gutted by the thought of that, I went back to the eagle 66 oiler. Tapped out the worst of the body dents and started polishing:




Not perfect, but not bad. Polishing to be continued….


----------



## wachuko

great white said:


> Despite carefully labeling and marking all my electrical connections when taking the lathe apart, it seems my speed control is not working right. So I’m faced with pulling it all apart again and chasing down every connection.
> 
> Ugh.
> 
> Gutted by the thought of that, I went back to the eagle 66 oiler. Tapped out the worst of the body dents and started polishing:
> 
> View attachment 417265
> 
> 
> Not perfect, but not bad. Polishing to be continued….


I am amazed at the before and after photos of the oilers you have restored… impressive!!!


----------



## great white

wachuko said:


> I am amazed at the before and after photos of the oilers you have restored… impressive!!!


Whoops. Post was supposed to be in “what did you do in your shop today” thread….


----------



## Aukai

I got so lucky today, a little bit of a long story. My son's boat has cracked welds on his aluminum T top for his boat, the fabricator here has been too busy for over 3 months. In May the miller dealer here had a welding show, and I went to the store today to buy a spool gun so I can take out, and replace the tubing. The counter person(long time employee) said I have to sell you the demo model from the show, I said sure. I bought extra spools, wire brushes, and tips to practice with when he went to make the invoice, and get prices, he said oh, they expensed the gun out, it's free, I just had to pay for the miscellaneous other items.


----------



## Eyerelief

Oh man, Miller 150 spoolmate.  Love it!


----------



## WhyW8

Aukai said:


> I got so lucky today, a little bit of a long story. My son's boat has cracked welds on his aluminum T top for his boat, the fabricator here has been too busy for over 3 months. In May the miller dealer here had a welding show, and I went to the store today to buy a spool gun so I can take out, and replace the tubing. The counter person(long time employee) said I have to sell you the demo model from the show, I said sure. I bought extra spools, wire brushes, and tips to practice with when he went to make the invoice, and get prices, he said oh, they expensed the gun out, it's free, I just had to pay for the miscellaneous other items.


Quick, hurry go out and buy the Lotto ticket ...  seriously smoking deal


----------



## Aukai

Online I see it for 600+, my company discount would have been 450 something, and I thought that would have been a good deal.


----------



## pontiac428

Once you start welding aluminum with it, you will know just how good a deal it was (err, mine was $1200 used, albeit for double the amps)

I seriously consider aluminum production work to be a MIG process these days.  Unless the work is very fine.  Makes that soft funny-heat metal a breeze to work with.


----------



## great white

Finished up the second eagle oiler:




It looks a little “brighter” because it’s freshly polished. Give it a week or two and it will have the same sheen as the other one.


----------



## great white

Aukai said:


> I got so lucky today, a little bit of a long story. My son's boat has cracked welds on his aluminum T top for his boat, the fabricator here has been too busy for over 3 months. In May the miller dealer here had a welding show, and I went to the store today to buy a spool gun so I can take out, and replace the tubing. The counter person(long time employee) said I have to sell you the demo model from the show, I said sure. I bought extra spools, wire brushes, and tips to practice with when he went to make the invoice, and get prices, he said oh, they expensed the gun out, it's free, I just had to pay for the miscellaneous other items.



you suck!

(j/k)

Personally, I prefer to tig aluminum. I do have a spool gun for my weldmate 180 lincoln, but I find its just starting to get in to the amperage range I want for most aluminum work. 180 amps just doesn’t cut it for me anymore so the spool gun mostly just gathers dust on the weld cart bottom shelf…


----------



## great white

great white said:


> Finished up the second eagle oiler:
> 
> View attachment 417343
> 
> 
> It looks a little “brighter” because it’s freshly polished. Gove it a week or two and it will have the same sheen as the other one.


G-D it! Wrong thread again!!!!


----------



## Aukai

My 250 DX is a beast to move around, and the T top would make using the foot pedal difficult, so I'm going to try the spool gun first.


----------



## Weldingrod1

On Ally, clean, clean, clean!
You need to groove or gap it, you won't get any penetration between tight fitted parts.
Build up the weld and don't grind it flush. Ally welds are soft.

Apologies if these are cheese consumption guidelines 

Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk


----------



## Aukai

I can stick metal together soundly, but  while it is not bird doo doo I am not a stacked dime welder. All input is gratefully accepted, thank you.


----------



## great white

Aukai said:


> I can stick metal together soundly, but  while it is not bird doo doo I am not a stacked dime welder. All input is gratefully accepted, thank you.


Not much I can help you with there as I'm what I would consider a rank amateur. I've got a pretty firm grip on the basics, but that's about where it ends.

I *can *lay a stack of dimes, but I'm probably more surprised than anyone else when it comes out that way......

It's that damned filler rod "finger shuffle" action that I just can't seem to get consistent at....


----------



## WobblyHand

Received some Huot drill index boxes to organize my bags of drills that I bought a while back from @mattthemuppet2 .  The drills had been kicking around and I thought the indexes would be much better than plastic baggies.  Picked up a replacement 3/16" stubby drill that I recently snapped off.  Never broken a drill before, surprised me.  Also got some metric hardware for my ELS project, various set screws for the pulleys and some flat head screws for the rotary encoder mounting.  The set screws that were supplied by the pulley manufacturer are so short that I can't pick them up and line them up to the threaded holes.  So these are a bit longer and give me more than 3 threads in the aluminum pulleys.  M5x10 and M4x8.  The encoder uses M3 screws.  Needed to use a flat head screw to avoid fouling with the timing belt pulley.


----------



## C-Bag

Got a CL alert from fellow forum member and junkyard dog  mickri about “free arbor press”. We have shared freebie alerts before. So I checked the time as good freebie’s rarely last more than an hour and it had been 10min. I hustled over there and saw a PU full of furniture with the guy standing at the back staring at the press in the back of his truck. Normally I would have admitted defeat but something told me to go check and talk to him. Turned out he had no clue, he only knew it to be a press whatever that was. I checked it over close and it looked exactly like an old Greenerd. Looked for signs of wear and repair and it was solid. Very rusty and needs a retaining collar or handwheel to hold the gear in the head along with some penetrating oil. He was thinking he could sell it for yard art, doh! So I offered him $5, he came back with $20 and I settled for it and some shaft chunks along with a twisted NASCAR torsion bar and a broken Porsche 356 rear axel. I figured mickri would want the old press for $20 and he does.

The press is an antique from around 1921 Precision no2 made by the Naperville Machine Co rated at 7,000lbs. If I didn’t already have my big Jet 2tn and Manley 22tn screw press I’d keep it as it has a 12” stroke. Another good day for saving antique tools from an ignominious fate.


----------



## wachuko

Why do we like tools so much??  I look at this and immediately smile with content...


----------



## Aukai

You guys in America get all the deals for these things. I've been waiting for years for a press to show up here.


----------



## Suzuki4evr

Aukai said:


> You guys in America get all the deals for these things. I've been waiting for years for a press to show up here.


I feel your pain man. I also wonder when deals like that happens around here.


----------



## Aukai

wrong thread


----------



## Suzuki4evr

Aukai said:


> You guys in America


But hey......you are part of America, you are just sitting in the big pond


----------



## Suzuki4evr

Aukai said:


> wrong thread


----------



## Aukai

When I was growing up here it wasn't


----------



## mmcmdl

Aukai said:


> You guys in America get all the deals for these things. I've been waiting for years for a press to show up here.


I know where 2 reside . Problem is , they don't float .


----------



## great white

a set of 3/16 brake line tools:



Now I have to build this to use them:



Pretty simple little machine really.


----------



## Firstram

great white said:


> a set of 3/16 brake line tools:
> 
> View attachment 417498
> 
> Now I have to build this to use them:
> 
> View attachment 417499
> 
> Pretty simple little machine really.


I’ll bet that works very well and would be fun to build. Looking forward to the video!


----------



## NCjeeper

I have been working on upping my fastener game. It is not cheap, but nice to have all different odd stuff at your fingertips.


----------



## great white

Firstram said:


> I’ll bet that works very well and would be fun to build. Looking forward to the video!


here a vid on it. Skip to 13.46 unless you want to listen to the guy talk a lot about brakes in general:


----------



## erikmannie

1-1/2” straight shank outside, MT3 inside adapter sleeve for holding a taper shank drill in an end mill holder.

I bought a lot of taper shank drills for my lathes. This adapter will allow these drills to be used on the milling machines.

$29.44 delivered, including tax & shipping.


----------



## Firstram

erikmannie said:


> 1-1/2” straight shank outside, MT3 inside adapter sleeve for holding a taper shank drill in an end mill holder.
> 
> I bought a lot of taper shank drills for my lathes. This adapter will allow these drills to be used on the milling machines.
> 
> $29.44 delivered, including tax & shipping.
> 
> View attachment 417522


Can’t get much longer than that! You’re going to need a 14” column spacer


----------



## K30

My tool post finally showed up today after about 6 weeks of lead time.  Not sure exactly what I think about this one.  Dorian is looking at the pictures right now.  Probably just the end-cut on that piece.  If they say it won't affect the return to 0, I can probably live with it, but


----------



## Just for fun

I wouldn't live with that....  Not with the price of a Dorian.  Now, if they credit you 50% of the cost, well maybe.  But still if I was to buy a Dorian tool post I would want it to be perfect, not a second.

Tim


----------



## WobblyHand

What he said.  ^^^  Whether it affects you functionally or not, that is not what I would call a factory first.  Wouldn't pay retail prices for that.


----------



## K30

Just for fun said:


> I wouldn't live with that....  Not with the price of a Dorian.  Now, if they credit you 50% of the cost, well maybe.  But still if I was to buy a Dorian tool post I would want it to be perfect, not a second.
> 
> Tim


That's basically my thinking on it.  I'm confused how that made it through QC to be honest.
Edit: update it took Dorian about 2 minutes to CC me on an email saying "we need to send this guy another one, with the quickness, and get that one back.  We have to figure out what happened here"


----------



## paulymorph

K30 said:


> I can probably live with it, but


No way would I accept that.


----------



## paulymorph

I picked up a nice Starrett-Webber 5 piece gauge block set at an auction for $15 today.  I can't find it on any searches or on Starrett's site.  The box doesn't have a part number on it either.  Anyone ever seen this one?


----------



## pontiac428

Since it's 0-.250 by 8ths, I'd guess it's a linear calibration set.  Not just linear as in linear dimension, I mean a linear calibration curve.  Perhaps it came as an included accessory with a calibrated device.  Maybe it's a product in Webber's catalog under license from Starrett.  I reckon the only thing that really matters about its past is that it ended up in YOUR toolbox.  Rejoice!


----------



## Aukai

My guess on the Dorian is that a piece of material stayed on the bottom of the pile too long rusted out, and someone still ran it through.


----------



## wachuko

K30 said:


> My tool post finally showed up today after about 6 weeks of lead time.  Not sure exactly what I think about this one.  Dorian is looking at the pictures right now.  Probably just the end-cut on that piece.  If they say it won't affect the return to 0, I can probably live with it, but
> View attachment 417568
> View attachment 417569


That needs to be returned


----------



## great white

starting to collect the bits to build a mill oiler for the craftex cx601:
	

		
			
		

		
	




Nothing extravagant, just an ebay special....price was right.


----------



## WobblyHand

This came in:  a 4, 5, 6 & 8mm key way broach set.  Took less than a week to get here.


Now I need to learn how to use it.  Where does the shim piece go?  I need to cut some 5mm key ways in a 14mm bore.  It seems the short and narrower end is placed in the bushing.  What keeps the broach from wanting to dig in?  I have a 3 ton arbor press, with enough height for the 4 & 5 mm broaches.  I will need to make a drop anvil to accommodate the longer broaches.


----------



## erikmannie

From Zoro, a NIB Tesa Brown & Sharpe .0005” grad BesTest PN 599-7031-5. It set me back $200.52.









						Tesa Brown & Sharpe 599-7031-5 $204.75 Dial Test Indicator, Hori, 0 to 0.030 In | Zoro.com
					

Order Tesa Brown & Sharpe Dial Test Indicator, Hori, 0 to 0.030 In, 599-7031-5 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.




					www.zoro.com
				




The only DTI that I have now is .0001”, and you sure don’t want to try to indicate a vise with such a fine graduation.

My friend has this exact same DTI linked above. He came over & we uneventfully indicated 2 mill vises with it. 

The Zoro website says that the DTI linked above is probably made in China. My friend’s DTI (same exact PN) was brand new; it did not say anywhere on the packaging where it was made. We Googled Tesa, and concluded that Tesa is made in Switzerland. You would think that it is a law that you have to state the country of manufacture somewhere on a new product.


----------



## erikmannie

Firstram said:


> Can’t get much longer than that! You’re going to need a 14” column spacer



This weekend I will post a picture of an MT4 taper shank drill in a “1-1/2” straight shank outside, MT4 inside” adapter sleeve in an end mill holder. 

I am also curious to see how much throat height remains after what is effectively an extension socket. 

I wonder what others do for an R8 to MT4 adapter (i.e. MT4 inside, R8 outside), or how others use a taper shank drill in a milling machine, whether that drill is MT3, MT4 or otherwise.

Edit: 
Oh, here we go:









						Hhip 3900-1814 $26.75 R8 To Mt4 Morse Taper Sleeve | Zoro.com
					

Order Hhip R8 To Mt4 Morse Taper Sleeve, 3900-1814 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.




					www.zoro.com
				







Here is my MT4 adapter in a 1-1/2” EMH. The OAL is 9-9/16”:


----------



## extropic

erikmannie said:


> From Zoro, a NIB Tesa Brown & Sharpe .0005” grad BesTest PN 599-7031-5. It set me back $200.52.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tesa Brown & Sharpe 599-7031-5 $204.75 Dial Test Indicator, Hori, 0 to 0.030 In | Zoro.com
> 
> 
> Order Tesa Brown & Sharpe Dial Test Indicator, Hori, 0 to 0.030 In, 599-7031-5 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.zoro.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only DTI that I have now is .0001”, and you sure don’t want to try to indicate a vise with such a fine graduation.
> 
> My friend has this exact same DTI linked above. He came over & we uneventfully indicated 2 mill vises with it.
> 
> The Zoro website says that the DTI linked above is probably made in China. My friend’s DTI (same exact PN) was brand new; it did not say anywhere on the packaging where it was made. We Googled Tesa, and concluded that Tesa is made in Switzerland. You would think that it is a law that you have to state the country of manufacture somewhere on a new product.


It's my understanding that the B&S DTIs have not been Swiss Made for some time.
Yes, the B&S trade name has been owned by TESA for many years and used to be Swiss Made (I have many).

When you get your DTI, if it says "Swiss Made" on the dial face you are golden. If it does not, it is not.

The photo in the Zoro linked ad shows Swiss Made on the dial face. If yours does not, I would return it and keep shopping. The Interapid brand DTIs are still Swiss Made (at about twice the price). Consider Mitutoyo, made in Japan.


----------



## erikmannie

extropic said:


> It's my understanding that the B&S DTIs have not been Swiss Made for some time.
> Yes, the B&S trade name has been owned by TESA for many years and used to be Swiss Made (I have many).
> 
> When you get your DTI, if it says "Swiss Made" on the dial face you are golden. If it does not, it is not.
> 
> The photo in the Zoro linked ad shows Swiss Made on the dial face. If yours does not, I would return it and keep shopping. The Interapid brand DTIs are still Swiss Made (at about twice the price). Consider Mitutoyo, made in Japan.



I just Googled it, & I now believe that these are now Made in China. I cannot afford to spend more than $200 for a .0005” DTI. I have been hunting for well over a month, & the used ones on eBay are a little well worn to my liking.

Here is one typical link & a screenshot:









						Brown & Sharpe 599-7031-5 BesTest Dial Test Indicator, .030" Range, .0005" Graduation
					

Item Description Range: .030"  Graduation: .0005" 0-15-0 dial face 1.5" Dial face diameter Easy-to-read "jet-console" face with high visibility orange hands Constant clockwise rotation Automatic reversal Swival point Carbide tip point Universal mounting With fitted case Photo shown for...




					shop.idealprec.com
				







My friend & I scrutinized his brand new DTI, & the needle swept very smoothly. He is an MD whose job it was to literally hold people’s lives in his hands, & he is stunningly bright & attentive to detail. I triple checked that I bought the exact same PN that he did.

TESA obviously bought or is licensing the Brown & Sharpe plus BesTest names. You know that they would mark up the price a lot for being able to slap that name on it. Hopefully, they consistently back this up with quality control because this DTI costs 7 1/2 times as much as other Made in China DTIs with similar specs.




As a rule, I will no longer buy tools that are Made in China (with the exception of consumable abrasives). I am used to spending about 7-10 times as much for every tool in order to avoid Chinesium. I am always surprised how low the prices are for Chinese tools.

I think econo-tools are great for people on a budget, students, or use as beaters. I destroyed many Chinese tools making rookie mistakes.

I will keep this one because I like the fact that my friend & I have identical DTIs.


----------



## ttabbal

WobblyHand said:


> This came in:  a 4, 5, 6 & 8mm key way broach set.  Took less than a week to get here.
> View attachment 417580
> 
> Now I need to learn how to use it.  Where does the shim piece go?  I need to cut some 5mm key ways in a 14mm bore.  It seems the short and narrower end is placed in the bushing.  What keeps the broach from wanting to dig in?  I have a 3 ton arbor press, with enough height for the 4 & 5 mm broaches.  I will need to make a drop anvil to accommodate the longer broaches.




Cool. I've only done small broaches, but the procedure is generally the same for all of them. 

Bore the hole to the correct size.
Insert the correct bushing
Put the broach in the bushing slot (no shim, narrow side first)
Run the broach through with the press
Hang the shim on the bushing, put the broach in again and run it again

The shim just spaces the broach over a little so you can get the depth you need without needing multiple broaches or an insanely long one. Use cutting oil, and occasionally release pressure to make sure the broach isn't getting sideways force. They can shatter if you push them too far to the sides.


----------



## projectnut

Had a fairly good day today at my favorite used equipment dealer.  I bought 3 Takachiho Seiki bore gauge sets.  The smallest is from  .40" to  .72" the next is 1.4" to 2.4", and the largest goes from .70" to 4.0"
While I don't have pictures yet here's a set similar to the ones I bought listed on eBay:








						Takachiho Seiki Teclock Gauge Made In Japan With Box & Attachments. 7-1.5"  | eBay
					

<p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">Takachiho Seiki Teclock Gauge Made In Japan With Box & Attachments. 7-1.5".  Item is in good, used condition.  PLEASE SEE ALL PHOTOS</p>



					www.ebay.com
				




I also came home with a set of B&S 1-2-3 blocks like these:








						Set of B&S 1-2-3 Blocks                            B-1116-2  | eBay
					

Make sure you note on BOL BEFORE the driver leaves.



					www.ebay.com
				




A pair of Avenger magnetic bases:








						AVENGER HEAVY DUTY MAGNETIC BASE #AMB-17  (MADE IN THE USA)  | eBay
					

Tin coated. Made in the USA.



					www.ebay.com
				




A B&S magnetic V block:








						V-Block Magnetic B&S                                  G-434  | eBay
					

You will receive a response within 24 hours. We will arrange for loading and trucking if necessary. We will do our best to fix it.



					www.ebay.com
				




A Federal Testmaster DTI:








						Federal Testmaster M-205 Jeweled Dial Test Indicator .0001" USA Machinist Tools  | eBay
					

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Federal Testmaster M-205 Jeweled Dial Test Indicator .0001" USA Machinist Tools at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



					www.ebay.com
				




And a box of dozen or so dial indicator clamps:








						【SALE】Sleeve Swivel Clamp Chuck for Magnetic Stand Holder Bar Dial Indicator  | eBay
					

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 【SALE】Sleeve Swivel Clamp Chuck for Magnetic Stand Holder Bar Dial Indicator at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



					www.ebay.com
				




All for $110.00


----------



## 682bear

I picked this up yesterday...




...71 cutters, all USA made, mostly Niagara. Sizes range from 1/8" to 1" wide, although there are quite a few 9/32".

The three at the top are two cutters wax dipped together... each pair is a matched left hand/ right hand pair.

-Bear


----------



## ChazzC

K30 said:


> My tool post finally showed up today after about 6 weeks of lead time.  Not sure exactly what I think about this one.  Dorian is looking at the pictures right now.  Probably just the end-cut on that piece.  If they say it won't affect the return to 0, I can probably live with it, but


Been holding off with this update, but since I haven't heard anything back from the manufacturer . . .

The end of May I ordered a 1/2" hole slitting saw arbor from McM: it looked to be well made, advertised to reduce vibration, has a 5-year warranty and (per the manufacturer's website) "PROUDLY MADE IN THE USA." aA couple of weeks later, I ordered a 5/8" version as I found that I had a couple of new saws with 5/8" holes. However, when I tried mounting one of the 5/8" blades, the retaining screw wouldn't seat: on investigation, the threaded mounting hole was half-full of chips & muck, what you might expect of Chinese or Indian fabricated tools. I then checked the 1/2" arbor and also found some chips in it, although not as many:






There were a lot more chips that the air gun removed, but you get the idea.

I messaged McM to let them know about the poor quality, explaining that I had cleaned both arbors out and that all was well. Within a half-hour had an apology, a refund on both arbors and told to keep them. The next day I went to the manufacturer's website and filled out a contact form, telling them of my experience. After a week with no response, I dug out the manufacturer's customer service email address and sent an email asking them to get back to me. It has been 19 days and either their server is down or they just don't care.

Oh, it was Sierra American Multi-Systems.


----------



## FOMOGO

Looks like your set for cutters for a bit Bear. Can't recall, do you have a horizontal mill? Cheers, Mike


----------



## great white

just a set of generic probe leads:




Needed a new set to keep working on my Sansui 8080DB receiver. The ones that came with my BK Precision meter are just plain worn out. These will get me by for a while.


----------



## 682bear

FOMOGO said:


> Looks like your set for cutters for a bit Bear. Can't recall, do you have a horizontal mill? Cheers, Mike



I have a 1947 Cincinnati #2ML...




-Bear


----------



## FOMOGO

That should do it. Mike


----------



## silverhawk

I normally don't post over here because most of the stuff I buy is just what everyone else purchases (or of lesser quality, so I'm usually a bit on the humbler side of the purchase).  But this time, it was too valuable to pass up ($11).

I was watching a woodworking video (talking about using 1-2-3 blocks for wood working setups), and the narrator mentioned 1-2-3 block set up hardware.  Heretofore, I've used the threads in the 1-2-3 blocks, or bolts all the way through the blocks, to do my set ups.  These little kits are pretty nifty.




The barrel nuts slide right in (some issue with size interference on some 1-2-3 blocks), and have a slot on the side to align the nuts.  Then you just thread things together.




Makes setups without protruding bolts or nuts very easy.

Granted, this would be an easy thing to make for yourself, but I had to go make a purchase of them just because the brilliance behind the kit.


----------



## francist

That is indeed a sweet idea — I never would have thought of that! I’ve used the barrel nuts lots before and they can be had pretty easily from Home Depot. Lee Valley sells them as well. Great use of an existing product for a new purpose.


----------



## brino

682bear said:


> I have a 1947 Cincinnati #2ML...



FYI, I uploaded the manual for that several years ago if you need one....
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/res...g-machine-2ml-2mi-3mi-service-and-parts.2852/

Brian


----------



## erikmannie

1-1/2” straight shank outside, MT2 inside adapter for using a taper shank drill in an end mill holder. Made in India, $29.44 including tax & delivery.

Last week, I bought the same in MT3. It arrived today & I was obviously impressed with it enough to buy one in MT2. I was happy that they make these only as long as they need to be (at least this was the case with the MT3 adapter sleeve).


----------



## 682bear

brino said:


> FYI, I uploaded the manual for that several years ago if you need one....
> https://www.hobby-machinist.com/res...g-machine-2ml-2mi-3mi-service-and-parts.2852/
> 
> Brian



Thanks, Brian, but I bought the mill from the company that purchased it new in 1947... they still had the manual, all paperwork, and some of the service records with it.

I appreciate it, though!

-Bear


----------



## erikmannie

Update on the NIB Brown & Sharpe .0005” BesTest DTI for which I paid $200 (including tax & shipping) from Zoro:

It arrived today & it looks great. I looked over every square inch of the DTI, case, labeling, & included documentation & manual. There is definitely no mention of where it was manufactured. The DTI is not marked “Swiss Made”.

I am now convinced that it was made in China.

Isn’t there a law that products need to somehow display the country of manufacture?


----------



## pontiac428

The only laws that matter are the ones that are enforced.  I don't know how to call the quality police to write them a ticket.  That's capitalism, baby!

I mentioned somewhere back in this thread that I was replacing tools that were stolen.  I could not find a 3/8 drive extension to save my life the other day, and I was really starting to have a meltdown over it because I gawdarn well know that I own at least enough of those to click together an extension long enough to tighten up the wind vane on my barn without a ladder.  I was hoppin' mad, so I went on ebay and ordered three sets of these here Matco extensions.  They're pretty nice, the knurls are proud and the corners are crisp.  They'll do!


----------



## francist

erikmannie said:


> Isn’t there a law that products need to somehow display the country of manufacture?


Apparently so, and you can read about it here…


----------



## erikmannie

francist said:


> Apparently so, and you can read about it here…
> 
> View attachment 417772



I really wonder how Tesa & Zoro failed to comply with this in the case of the aforementioned DTI. We all know *why*.

The documentation included a phone number for Tesa in Rhode Island. I guess I will call them Monday morning and ask. I’m sure that they receive such calls on a regular basis.

I will report back here to update what Tesa says on this phone call.


----------



## erikmannie

I believe I found the answer in here:






						Test Indicator Brand Comparison
					

Test Indicator Brand Comparison: Mitutoyo, Starrett, Bestest, Interapid and others.




					www.longislandindicator.com
				




and here:





__





						B&S BesTest Indicator
					

Brown & Sharpe BesTest test indicator horizontal, vertical, black dial model




					www.longislandindicator.com
				




I recommend that anybody buying a DTI should read the first ink.

Here is a screenshot from the second link:




I did not know what the circular tool in the photo below was. It is a stem wrench. I have been using a regular screwdriver to adjust that bolt on the stem.


----------



## BGHansen

silverhawk said:


> The barrel nuts slide right in (some issue with size interference on some 1-2-3 blocks), and have a slot on the side to align the nuts.  Then you just thread things together.
> 
> Granted, this would be an easy thing to make for yourself, but I had to go make a purchase of them just because the brilliance behind the kit.


Great idea! Ikea for machinist!

Bruce


----------



## brino

erikmannie said:


> It is a stem wrench. I have been using a regular screwdriver to adjust that bolt on the stem.



My understanding is that that little coin with two bites out of it was meant as an open-end wrench to fit the flats on the tip here:


....it allows you to unscrew and replace the tip. Instead of using a pliers.

Brian


----------



## erikmannie

brino said:


> My understanding is that that little coin with two bites out of it was meant as an open-end wrench to fit the flats on the tip here:
> View attachment 417780
> 
> ....it allows you to unscrew and replace the tip. Instead of using a pliers.
> 
> Brian



Obviously, you are correct. Thank you.


----------



## erikmannie

I said that I was going to upload a photo of “a long taper shank drill in an adapter sleeve in an end mill holder”. Here is that set up.

In the photo, the table is down all the way & I have my longest taper shank drill in there.

On the left is my buddy Cliff Sheldon, & on the right is my Dad Rik Mannie:


----------



## extropic

@erikmannie 

Nice clear photo. Thank you.
More importantly, what do you think of the set-up you have pictured?
What is the potential for the set-up to damage the machine or operator? Does it have a practical application (I'd like to see that picture)?


----------



## erikmannie

extropic said:


> @erikmannie
> 
> Nice clear photo. Thank you.
> More importantly, what do you think of the set-up you have pictured?
> What is the potential for the set-up to damage the machine or operator? Does it have a practical application (I'd like to see that picture)?



I have only had the knee mill for about 7 weeks. So far, the largest hole that I have had to drill was 1-1/4”. In that case, the work was clamped to the table.

The taper shank drills were purchased for use on the lathes.

My biggest criticism of the set up pictured is the torsional strain that you would get on a large diameter drill from the tip of the drill up to the R8 collet. In other words, the setup as pictured is not rigid with regard to rotational forces.

If I were to use taper shank drills on a milling machine, I would make sure to step drill, use proper feeds and speeds, use lubricant, clamp the work down 100% securely, and peck.


----------



## extropic

erikmannie said:


> I have only had the knee mill for about 7 weeks. So far, the largest hole that I have had to drill was 1-1/4”. In that case, the work was clamped to the table.
> 
> *The taper shank drills were purchased for use on the lathes.*
> 
> My biggest criticism of the set up pictured is the torsional strain that you would get on a large diameter drill from the tip of the drill up to the R8 collet. In other words, the setup as pictured is not rigid with regard to rotational forces.
> 
> If I were to use taper shank drills on a milling machine, I would make sure to step drill, use proper feeds and speeds, use lubricant, clamp the work down 100% securely, and peck.



Thank you for the explanation. I'm somewhat relieved.

My major concern with that picture is that persons of ALL knowledge/skill levels have access to see it and it chills me to think that someone might consider it 'good to go'. IMO, what is pictured is ill advised for any practical purpose. If I had the graphic arts skill, I would post here a copy of that photo overlaid with a large red circle w/ diagonal slash, in hopes of deterring other pilgrims from reproducing anything similar to that conglomeration. Safety first, please.


----------



## erikmannie

extropic said:


> Thank you for the explanation. I'm somewhat relieved.
> 
> My major concern with that picture is that persons of ALL knowledge/skill levels have access to see it and it chills me to think that someone might consider it 'good to go'. IMO, what is pictured is ill advised for any practical purpose. If I had the graphic arts skill, I would post here a copy of that photo overlaid with a large red circle w/ diagonal slash, in hopes of deterring other pilgrims from reproducing anything similar to that conglomeration. Safety first, please.



Where do think it would fail? I would guess at the work. I think that the setup is rigid enough in the z-plane. There are no x- or y- horizontal forces, so the only concern is a torsional failure, right?

I have had countless drills get embedded into the work. On a lathe with no tang on the MT2 shank of the keyless drill chuck, the MT2 shank spun in the (tailstock) quill.

I have also had the seal fail between a drill chuck & it’s (R8) shank. I.e. where the drill chuck mates to the shank (obviously this was not an integral shank drill chuck).

I have also had a drill spin in the drill chuck (the drill had no flats). Not so good for the jaws, & less so for the drill.

I would be very interested to hear what people’s opinions are as to what is the weak link in the photo that I posted.

I guess I will post the photos again so nobody has to go back and look.

Maybe the failure would be at the R8 shank!






The adapter sleeve has flats on it. Two 3/8” set screws in the end mill holder clamp to that flat.

I will post another picture of a 2-3/8” screw machine drill in the same end mill holder. The drill in the photo does not have any flats on it’s 1-1/2” shank, but I was thinking about milling some on.




Wow. Looking at that photo, you have to worry about where the EMH meets it’s integral R8 shank if & when the long lever (1-3/16” lever) of the drill gets stuck in the work. This EMH is from Israel.

Finally, R8 to (female) MT4 adapters are commercially available. Almost all that I have seen were from China. Maybe it is not recommended to use taper shank drills in these adapters.


----------



## JimDawson

That machine spindle might be a little light to turn drill that size.  I normally limit mine to 1'' max in steel.


----------



## erikmannie

JimDawson said:


> That machine spindle might be a little light to turn drill that size.  I normally limit mine to 1'' max in steel.



Good point! There is a reason that they make boring heads.


----------



## NCjeeper

Or use an annular cutter.


----------



## Gnpenning

silverhawk said:


> I normally don't post over here because most of the stuff I buy is just what everyone else purchases (or of lesser quality, so I'm usually a bit on the humbler side of the purchase).  But this time, it was too valuable to pass up ($11).
> 
> I was watching a woodworking video (talking about using 1-2-3 blocks for wood working setups), and the narrator mentioned 1-2-3 block set up hardware.  Heretofore, I've used the threads in the 1-2-3 blocks, or bolts all the way through the blocks, to do my set ups.  These little kits are pretty nifty.
> 
> View attachment 417724
> 
> 
> The barrel nuts slide right in (some issue with size interference on some 1-2-3 blocks), and have a slot on the side to align the nuts.  Then you just thread things together.
> 
> View attachment 417725
> 
> 
> Makes setups without protruding bolts or nuts very easy.
> 
> Granted, this would be an easy thing to make for yourself, but I had to go make a purchase of them just because the brilliance behind the kit.


You don't by chance have link?


----------



## extropic

erikmannie said:


> *Where do think it would fail?* snip>



I didn't use the word "fail". I wrote "What is the potential for the set-up to damage the machine or operator?"

IMO, the hyper extended tooling has virtually zero practical use. If you want to create large (>1 inch) holes on a Bridgeport/clone, annular cutters are excellent for the job. McMaster sells them up to 2" and MSC lists them to 6.5" (maybe too big for a Bridgeport).

The vertical force on the quill, needed to advance a 1.5" drill through an aluminum workpiece (even with a .5" pilot hole), will deform the alignment of the mill head relative to the table. That deformation creates a moment on the quill/spindle/bearings that an R8 spindle is not designed to carry, IMO.

Substantial shock at the cutting edges, like breaking through into intersecting features or through the workpiece, will alter the tram of the mill head. The Roll and Pitch clamping capabilities are finite, not infinite. Continuing drilling with the head out of tram compounds the bearing damage potential.

IMO, anybody that thinks the hyper extended tooling is OK lacks the experience/knowledge to mount a workpiece securely enough. That is the primary danger to the operator.

I think I've made my point here and I won't respond to any additional replies on the subject in the "What did you buy today" thread. I apologize to all for my part in the sidetrack.

If someone needs to continue to beat this horse, and wants my comments, start a new thread and call it to my attention. I don't see/read/follow all threads.


----------



## erikmannie

extropic said:


> I didn't use the word "fail". I wrote "What is the potential for the set-up to damage the machine or operator?"
> 
> IMO, the hyper extended tooling has virtually zero practical use. If you want to create large (>1 inch) holes on a Bridgeport/clone annular cutters are excellent for the job. McMaster sells them up to 2" and MSC lists them to 6.5" (maybe too big for a Bridgeport).
> 
> The vertical force on the quill, needed to advance a 1.5" drill through an aluminum workpiece (even with a .5" pilot hole), will deform the alignment of the mill head relative to the table. That deformation creates a moment on the quill/spindle/bearings that an R8 spindle is not designed to carry, IMO.
> 
> Substantial shock at the cutting edges, like breaking through into intersecting features or through the workpiece, will alter the tram of the mill head. The Roll and Pitch clamping capabilities are finite, not infinite. Continuing drilling with the head out of tram compounds the bearing damage potential.
> 
> IMO, anybody that thinks the hyper extended tooling is OK lacks the experience/knowledge to mount a workpiece securely enough. That is the primary danger to the operator.
> 
> I think I've made my point here and I won't respond to any additional replies on the subject in the "What did you buy today" thread. I apologize to all for my part in the sidetrack.
> 
> If someone needs to continue to beat this horse, and wants my comments, start a new thread and call it to my attention. I don't see/read/follow all threads.
> 
> View attachment 417869



I uploaded 2 pictures of 2 parts that I recently bought mated together. Point taken about safety first.

In the future, I will limit myself to strictly uploading information on what I bought in this thread. Any follow up will go in a related thread.

I also hope that nobody else chime’s in on this issue which a moderator has deemed to be a sidetrack.


----------



## silverhawk

Gnpenning said:


> You don't by chance have link?


The 1-2-3 block hardware  kits are put together by Taylor Toolworks. I think they go by the name of taytools on Amazon. https://taytools.com/products/123-b...32119&pr_ref_pid=2046611226675&pr_seq=uniform. $11 would beat the individual price of components at my big box store.

Sent from my SM-T500 using Tapatalk


----------



## projectnut

erikmannie said:


> I believe I found the answer in here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test Indicator Brand Comparison
> 
> 
> Test Indicator Brand Comparison: Mitutoyo, Starrett, Bestest, Interapid and others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.longislandindicator.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> B&S BesTest Indicator
> 
> 
> Brown & Sharpe BesTest test indicator horizontal, vertical, black dial model
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.longislandindicator.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend that anybody buying a DTI should read the first ink.
> 
> Here is a screenshot from the second link:



I would be very careful about treating the opinions offered by Long Island Indicator as the gospel.  They seem very opinionated against certain brands.  One in particular is Federal.  They rate them as the worst ever made, with poor workmanship and all kinds of faults. 

If you ask the members of the Practical Machinists board to rate dial indicators and test indicators Federal is one of the most preferred.    Here's a link to one thread i started when some were offered to me.






						Quality of Federal Dial & Test Indicators?
					

Over the weekend I stopped at an equipment dealer in search of some 316 and 6061 flat stock.  While I was there the owner approached me and said he had some measuring instruments I might be interested in.  He had  some Starrett inside mics, a Scherr Tumico bore gauge and a couple V blocks that...



					www.practicalmachinist.com
				




I personally have close to a dozen Federal indicators.  Of the over 3 dozen indicators I own they are just as accurate, and just as well built as B&S, Starrett, Interapid, and Mitutoyo's.

All My Federal indicators date from the 1970's and 80's and are fully jeweled.  They may have made some economy models along the way, but their higher end models are as good as all the other major brands.


----------



## projectnut

Here's an update with pictures of last weekend's purchases.  As mentioned, there were 3 bore gauges, a B&S magnetic V block. a couple Avenger magnetic bases (with extra clamps), a Federal DTI, and a set of B&S 1-2-3 blocks


----------



## pontiac428

Long Island Indicator says the last word is a good indicator, but the Mitsutoyos are throw-away units(??).  They consider them throw aways because the repair costs almost as much as a replacement, so shops just replace them instead of repairing them.  Is that a dig on Mitsu's low prices, or is that a dig on Long Island's high labor rate?  What does it mean in regards to useful life and accuracy?  Methinks their rundown of indicator brands is from the perspective of a repair shop, not from the perspective or a machine shop, and certainly not reflective of the philosophy in MY shop.


----------



## mickri

Picked up a few things over the weekend.  First is a gear stop for the lathe.  It locks the bull gear in place to make it easier to remove a stuck chuck.  $8 on Ebay.  Will have to see how it works.  I have never cared for reaching over the gears to tension the belt to remove a chuck.  I invariably get grease on my arm/sleeve which then always seems to get smeared somewhere else.




Next were two air pressure hoses.  One is brand new and the other will need some help.  I have never liked the cheapo HF hose that I have wrestled with for years.  $18 from a local auction house.




And last but not least an arbor press that is huge.  It needs a collar opposite the handle.  Tony showed me how he converted a handle to make it easier to quickly move the ram.  I can barely pick it up.  And a 12 ton hydraulic press.  I might cut this down to fit on a bench.  I will think long and hard about that before I do it.  I have another hydraulic press that fits on a bench that I made.  It doesn't work very well because the bottle jack is inverted,  I need to fiddle with it some more.  These came from C-Bag.  $40 for both of them.  Thanks Tony.





Nothing fancy.  Just more stuff for the shop.  And where do I put?


----------



## pontiac428

@mickri, I know you dabble in automotive, so here's my tip:  Leave the hydraulic press tall.  It's the only way you'll ever press rear outboard axle bearings off.  It's a must-have!


----------



## mickri

I concur with your thinking.  On my MG Midget the rear axle bearings are held in a carrier that bolts to the axle housing.  Don't have to fit the entire axle into the pres.  Just the bearing carrier.


----------



## wachuko

Got a few side clamps...


----------



## Suzuki4evr

projectnut said:


> Had a fairly good day today at my favorite used equipment dealer.  I bought 3 Takachiho Seiki bore gauge sets.  The smallest is from  .40" to  .72" the next is 1.4" to 2.4", and the largest goes from .70" to 4.0"
> While I don't have pictures yet here's a set similar to the ones I bought listed on eBay:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Takachiho Seiki Teclock Gauge Made In Japan With Box & Attachments. 7-1.5"  | eBay
> 
> 
> <p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">Takachiho Seiki Teclock Gauge Made In Japan With Box & Attachments. 7-1.5".  Item is in good, used condition.  PLEASE SEE ALL PHOTOS</p>
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also came home with a set of B&S 1-2-3 blocks like these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set of B&S 1-2-3 Blocks                            B-1116-2  | eBay
> 
> 
> Make sure you note on BOL BEFORE the driver leaves.
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of Avenger magnetic bases:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AVENGER HEAVY DUTY MAGNETIC BASE #AMB-17  (MADE IN THE USA)  | eBay
> 
> 
> Tin coated. Made in the USA.
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A B&S magnetic V block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> V-Block Magnetic B&S                                  G-434  | eBay
> 
> 
> You will receive a response within 24 hours. We will arrange for loading and trucking if necessary. We will do our best to fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A Federal Testmaster DTI:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Federal Testmaster M-205 Jeweled Dial Test Indicator .0001" USA Machinist Tools  | eBay
> 
> 
> Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Federal Testmaster M-205 Jeweled Dial Test Indicator .0001" USA Machinist Tools at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a box of dozen or so dial indicator clamps:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 【SALE】Sleeve Swivel Clamp Chuck for Magnetic Stand Holder Bar Dial Indicator  | eBay
> 
> 
> Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 【SALE】Sleeve Swivel Clamp Chuck for Magnetic Stand Holder Bar Dial Indicator at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All for $110.00


One BIG
 
to you my friend.

Great find


----------



## Suzuki4evr

682bear said:


> I picked this up yesterday...
> 
> View attachment 417689
> 
> 
> ...71 cutters, all USA made, mostly Niagara. Sizes range from 1/8" to 1" wide, although there are quite a few 9/32".
> 
> The three at the top are two cutters wax dipped together... each pair is a matched left hand/ right hand pair.
> 
> -Bear


You deserve one of these too.


_
 congrats_


----------



## WobblyHand

Received some drill bits from McMaster to fill out my jobber set of drills.  Now have a full set of 115 jobber drills.  Well actually, 114 drills, for some reason I didn't get an E drill.  I do have a 1/4" drill bit in the fractional set.  Some time in a future order, I will add an E drill to fill the hole in the letter drill index.

Got some spare parts from Grizzly for my lathe and my ELS project.  My timing pulley is wider than the gear that used to be there, (11mm vs the original gear width of 8mm) so these spare parts will let me machine them to get the pulleys to line up correctly.


The idea is to machine the top part of the gear shaft to lengthen the top part.  This will move the pulley closer to the lathe body.  I may also machine a pocket in the plastic pulley to make it a little thinner so the timing pulley will partially nestle in the gear.  I will also have to machine the timing pulley so that the E-clip will retain the pulley.

Because I saw this while I was ordering the spare parts, I bought this 6" vernier caliper for $4.50.  Couldn't resist for that price.  Beater caliper.  Has large digits.  Also has sort of a scale on the side, so you could guesstimate something even if the battery ran out.  Came with two LR44 batteries and a sturdy blow molded case.  Case is nicer than the Harbor Freight ones.


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> Received some drill bits from McMaster to fill out my jobber set of drills.  Now have a full set of 115 jobber drills.  Well actually, 114 drills, for some reason I didn't get an E drill.  I do have a 1/4" drill bit in the fractional set.  Some time in a future order, I will add an E drill to fill the hole in the letter drill index.
> 
> Got some spare parts from Grizzly for my lathe and my ELS project.  My timing pulley is wider than the gear that used to be there, (11mm vs the original gear width of 8mm) so these spare parts will let me machine them to get the pulleys to line up correctly.
> View attachment 418047
> 
> The idea is to machine the top part of the gear shaft to lengthen the top part.  This will move the pulley closer to the lathe body.  I may also machine a pocket in the plastic pulley to make it a little thinner so the timing pulley will partially nestle in the gear.  I will also have to machine the timing pulley so that the E-clip will retain the pulley.
> 
> Because I saw this while I was ordering the spare parts, I bought this 6" vernier caliper for $4.50.  Couldn't resist for that price.  Beater caliper.  Has large digits.  Also has sort of a scale on the side, so you could guesstimate something even if the battery ran out.  Came with two LR44 batteries and a sturdy blow molded case.  Case is nicer than the Harbor Freight ones.
> View attachment 418048


I never use the cases anymore. I have a place in my toolbox for them, and that's where they go. I find the boxes eat up too much space.


----------



## WobblyHand

You throw loose drill bits in your toolbox?  How do you find the right one?


----------



## woodchucker

WobblyHand said:


> You throw loose drill bits in your toolbox?  How do you find the right one?


The case for the caliper


----------



## WobblyHand

woodchucker said:


> The case for the caliper


Err, think I will stay with the small index boxes.  I have some metric drill bits but no index, but they are in individual plastic boxes.  Even though I have labeled them, they are a mess and chaotic.  I'd rather have the index boxes.  There's enough chaos in my life, no need to torture myself with more!


----------



## jwmelvin

WobblyHand said:


> Err, think I will stay with the small index boxes.



Lol I’m pretty sure [mention]woodchucker [/mention] meant he doesn’t use the caliper case for calipers. I imagine he likes drill indexes just fine.


----------



## WobblyHand

jwmelvin said:


> Lol I’m pretty sure [mention]woodchucker [/mention] meant he doesn’t use the caliper case for calipers. I imagine he likes drill indexes just fine.


I honestly thought he meant the index cases rather than the caliper cases.  Might have been because I'm sore from muscling my arbor press onto its stand, hauling down the stand down into my basement and cutting steel plate with a Saws-all.  Must have short circuited my common sense.  

The caliper cases take up to much room, I agree.  Loose drill bits in a toolbox, umm, no thanks.  But if I were moving - I'd use the cases for the calipers and micrometers and DTI's...


----------



## 682bear

An ebay find...







I found a stand for my Delta 12" disk grinder...




It's too short for me, but I can always add risers or casters under it to raise it a fuzz... 

Otherwise, it's in very good condition, just needs a good cleaning.

-Bear


----------



## IamNotImportant

can you guess where they came from?


----------



## great white

IamNotImportant said:


> View attachment 418117
> 
> 
> can you guess where they came from?


Nice assortment. What size is the Superchuck? Looks roughly around an 11N size......


----------



## IamNotImportant

great white said:


> Nice assortment. What size is the Superchuck? Looks roughly around an 11N size......


It's a 14N


----------



## mattthemuppet2

that should keep you going for a while


----------



## 682bear

This morning I drove over to HGR in Birmingham and spent a couple of hours browsing through their showroom.

I came home with a couple of hardware cabinets...




And a 2hp Marathon motor that appears to be new...




I plan to use the motor on a Hendey lathe.

While I was there, I found this...




No, I didn't buy it... so far, I'm resisting temptation...

-Bear


----------



## Larry42

K30 said:


> Dorian is looking at the pictures right now.


Yuck! Looks like cheap Chinese! I'd be talking *big* discount. That part should have been scrapped rather than sending it out. Where is QC?


----------



## woodchucker

IamNotImportant said:


> View attachment 418117
> 
> 
> can you guess where they came from?


someone other than Dave?  the muppet?


----------



## WobblyHand

This arrived today.  I've piled up a lot of bits that need sharpening over the years.  Need something more or less foolproof for these tired eyes.


I bought a spare wheel for it as well.  Once I sharpen the first couple, hope it will get easier.  Read through the directions and can see how things could be interpreted incorrectly.  Have to give it a try in the next couple of days.


----------



## K30

Larry42 said:


> Yuck! Looks like cheap Chinese! I'd be talking *big* discount. That part should have been scrapped rather than sending it out. Where is QC?


Good question.  They offered me 20% off my next order, which I wasn't cool with.  They shipped out a new one, and I got to send the orginal back on my dime.  So it cost me something like $75 to get the post I should have gotten anyway.


----------



## Larry42

K30 said:


> So it cost me something like $75 to get the post I should have gotten anyway.


Not what I consider good customer service! 
From this I will assume they consider the product to meet their standards.  Sloppy manufacturing!


----------



## lordbeezer

They would have to come and pick it up. Or prepaid shipping label


----------



## Eyerelief

WobblyHand said:


> This arrived today.  I've piled up a lot of bits that need sharpening over the years.  Need something more or less foolproof for these tired eyes.
> 
> I bought a spare wheel for it as well.  Once I sharpen the first couple, hope it will get easier.  Read through the directions and can see how things could be interpreted incorrectly.  Have to give it a try in the next couple of days.


I have one of these and really like it for drills #76 -  .500.  The instructions left me in a bit of a fog, but after sharpening a few it all comes together.  I benefit from doing them in batches.  I don't seem to be satisfied with just sharpening a single, but if I get in a rhythm they start turning out very serviceable.


----------



## Janderso

wachuko said:


> Got a few side clamps...
> 
> View attachment 417962
> 
> 
> View attachment 417961


I was going to make some. Good find.


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> Got a few side clamps...
> 
> View attachment 417962
> 
> 
> View attachment 417961


Who did you buy the J&S clamps from?  Could of used them yesterday and today.  Had to shuffle the ordinary hold downs around a lot.  The J&S website doesn't seem to offer a way to buy their clamps, save for emailing them.


----------



## IamNotImportant

woodchucker said:


> someone other than Dave?  the muppet?


no.. wasn't dave.. i don't think he was home..


----------



## IamNotImportant

682bear said:


> This morning I drove over to HGR in Birmingham and spent a couple of hours browsing through their showroom.
> 
> I came home with a couple of hardware cabinets...
> 
> View attachment 418221
> 
> 
> And a 2hp Marathon motor that appears to be new...
> 
> View attachment 418222
> 
> 
> I plan to use the motor on a Hendey lathe.
> 
> While I was there, I found this...
> 
> View attachment 418223
> 
> 
> No, I didn't buy it... so far, I'm resisting temptation...
> 
> -Bear


my understanding that the tubes used in it are getting really hard to find.. i don't know.. i was told that you spend as much as or more just trying to maintain one..


----------



## Janderso

IamNotImportant said:


> my understanding that the tubes used in it are getting really hard to find.. i don't know.. i was told that you spend as much as or more just trying to maintain one..


The electronics on those Monarchs with the 1950’s/60’s tubes scares the heck out of me.
I bet many owners update with a modern electrical system.
I don’t have the smarts but I know a few that do.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Janderso said:


> The electronics on those Monarchs with the 1950’s/60’s tubes scares the heck out of me.
> I bet many owners update with a modern electrical system.
> I don’t have the smarts but I know a few that do.


yeah.. in a dream i once wanted one.. then someone in reality said.. no son.. leave it alone


----------



## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> Who did you buy the J&S clamps from?  Could of used them yesterday and today.  Had to shuffle the ordinary hold downs around a lot.  The J&S website doesn't seem to offer a way to buy their clamps, save for emailing them.


eBay find…


----------



## tq60

682bear said:


> An ebay find...
> 
> View attachment 418104
> 
> 
> View attachment 418105
> 
> 
> I found a stand for my Delta 12" disk grinder...
> 
> View attachment 418106
> 
> 
> It's too short for me, but I can always add risers or casters under it to raise it a fuzz...
> 
> Otherwise, it's in very good condition, just needs a good cleaning.
> 
> -Bear


That is for their jointer, at least that is what is on ours, the chute is for the wood chips.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


----------



## 682bear

IamNotImportant said:


> my understanding that the tubes used in it are getting really hard to find.. i don't know.. i was told that you spend as much as or more just trying to maintain one..



So... what's your point?

Just kidding... I agree, the electricals are a little intimidating... but it's only money, right?



tq60 said:


> That is for their jointer, at least that is what is on ours, the chute is for the wood chips.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk



It may be for a jointer, but it fits the grinder perfectly... there is two holes that line up with the mounting holes in the grinder base when the chute lines up with the grinder discharge. I would guess that it was designed to fit several different machines.

-Bear


----------



## matthewsx

I didn’t buy it today but I got the call from HF that it was in. Lots of fun getting it on the ground and into my shop but it’s here. 

The Craftsman box is going to work with me. 








John


----------



## IamNotImportant

matthewsx said:


> I didn’t buy it today but I got the call from HF that it was in. Lots of fun getting it on the ground and into my shop but it’s here.
> 
> The Craftsman box is going to work with me.
> 
> View attachment 418265
> 
> View attachment 418267
> 
> View attachment 418268
> 
> 
> John


you just reminded me.. i must find another box for the mill


----------



## ChazzC

K30 said:


> Good question.  They offered me 20% off my next order, which I wasn't cool with.  They shipped out a new one, and I got to send the orginal back on my dime.  So it cost me something like $75 to get the post I should have gotten anyway.


Definitely not cool: if they wanted the original back to figure out what happened they should have covered the return. Maybe contact your credit card company about not receiving what you ordered?


----------



## ChazzC

matthewsx said:


> I didn’t buy it today but I got the call from HF that it was in. Lots of fun getting it on the ground and into my shop but it’s here.
> 
> The Craftsman box is going to work with me.
> 
> View attachment 418265
> 
> 
> John


Nice; however, be cautious using straps with binder clamps or plastic hooks for lifting: gravity is different than horizontal forces applied to loads.


----------



## great white

IamNotImportant said:


> yeah.. in a dream i once wanted one.. then someone in reality said.. no son.. leave it alone


Why not? A vfd and ac motor and the ”electronics” are no longer an issue. Somewhere between $500-1000 will fix it right up with quality components and then you have a very capable unit.

There’s even a thread of two on this board where the conversion was done. I think its practicalmachinist that even has a sub-forum on it.

Wear, however, is a different story…parts can get pretty spendy pretty fast.


----------



## matthewsx

ChazzC said:


> Nice; however, be cautious using straps with binder clamps or plastic hooks for lifting: gravity is different than horizontal forces applied to loads.


Thank you for your concern. These are 1000lb ratchet straps, only plastic is covering the metal ratcheting mechanism and hooks. 

I do have proper lifting slings too but for this application I didn’t have enough clearance for using them. 

John


----------



## Janderso

matthewsx said:


> I didn’t buy it today but I got the call from HF that it was in. Lots of fun getting it on the ground and into my shop but it’s here.
> 
> The Craftsman box is going to work with me.
> 
> View attachment 418265
> 
> View attachment 418267
> 
> View attachment 418268
> 
> 
> John


My neighbor and I unloaded the same tool box from the back of my truck.
It was much heavier than I thought. We both ended up on the deck.
I built the shelving unit to allow for the box.
Getting the box on the shelf was another story in itself. Darn near killed me.


----------



## IamNotImportant

great white said:


> Why not? A vfd and ac motor and the ”electronics” are no longer an issue. Somewhere between $500-1000 will fix it right up with quality components and then you have a very capable unit.
> 
> There’s even a thread of two on this board where the conversion was done. I think its practicalmachinist that even has a sub-forum on it.
> 
> Wear, however, is a different story…parts can get pretty spendy pretty fast.


back then.. i was not aware of such love as a VFD..


----------



## wachuko

These arrived today…


----------



## erikmannie

My finances are going to change after 2022, so I am culminating a 5 year tool buying spree with 2 more purchases from @matthemuppet2

I sent the money for the big purchase today—$700.00!

It is cutting tools, mostly for a milling machine:









































The 3” endmill is for display purposes only. It looks like I’m going to have to buy a 1” stub arbor for that single angle cutter.

After this big purchase, I am making one more smaller purchase (large carbide endmills) from him before I switch to only buying materials & consumables.


----------



## erikmannie

Continued:








My wife has worked to help me buy hopefully enough welding & machine equipment and instruction to last me the rest of my life, but now she is 100% burned out after working in the same career (childcare) for over 35 years. She is going to leave that vocation forever, take some time off & then go back to school at the community college. 

Interestingly, my son goes to the same school. I wonder if it would cramp his style at all if he had his Mom in his class.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Traded a bunch of tooling with pontiac428 for this beautiful Pratt Burnerd 6 jaw. It matches my PB 3 jaw set tru 




Looks too big from this angle due to the small headstock, but it's a 6" chuck on a SB heavy 9.

Thanks pontiac428!


----------



## Firstram

I love the copious use of aluminum, the finger dimple in the speed knob is pretty swank too!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

yes, I love that chip shield, makes cleaning up way easier. I need to upgrade my cookie trays though.. The speed knob was a dial from some piece of old scientific equipment I dismantled many years ago. I never (well, rarely) throw anything away


----------



## ChazzC

mattthemuppet2 said:


> yes, I love that chip shield, makes cleaning up way easier. I need to upgrade my cookie trays though.. The speed knob was a dial from some piece of old scientific equipment I dismantled many years ago. I never (well, rarely) throw anything away


My philosophy is that my survivors can throw stuff away.


----------



## BGHansen

ChazzC said:


> My philosophy is that my survivors can throw stuff away.


Seems like that was my parent's philosophy too.  My mom passed away earlier this year, dad passed 3 years ago.  I took possession of their home that was built in 1964.  Going through papers a few weeks ago, I found and disposed of their tax return from 1964. . .  I miss the parents and try to NOT dwell on complaining about cleaning out all of the stuff they left behind.  I kept my dad's dog tags from the Marine Corp, but what to do with all of the other "keepsakes"?  My brother-in-law had a good comment, "If your mom's high school diploma (or insert countless other items) was so important to her, why was it stuffed in an envelope, packed in a shoe box, and buried under 100 lbs. of other stuff in a closet you can't get into because a sewing cabinet is in front of it".  He has a good point, the diplomas and yearbooks all went in the trash.  

I'm hoping to NOT do that to our kids!  The coolant pump for my Tormach crapped out last year and was replaced.  Still had the old, burned out pump in the shop, until last trash day.

Bruce


----------



## ChazzC

BGHansen said:


> Seems like that was my parent's philosophy too.  My mom passed away earlier this year, dad passed 3 years ago.  I took possession of their home that was built in 1964.  Going through papers a few weeks ago, I found and disposed of their tax return from 1964. . .  I miss the parents and try to NOT dwell on complaining about cleaning out all of the stuff they left behind.  I kept my dad's dog tags from the Marine Corp, but what to do with all of the other "keepsakes"?  My brother-in-law had a good comment, "If your mom's high school diploma (or insert countless other items) was so important to her, why was it stuffed in an envelope, packed in a shoe box, and buried under 100 lbs. of other stuff in a closet you can't get into because a sewing cabinet is in front of it".  He has a good point, the diplomas and yearbooks all went in the trash.
> 
> I'm hoping to NOT do that to our kids!  The coolant pump for my Tormach crapped out last year and was replaced.  Still had the old, burned out pump in the shop, until last trash day.
> 
> Bruce


My condolences; my father passed in 1994 and my mother 10 years later. Other than some books and odds & ends that my mother hadn’t already given to my sisters & me the only things that we sorted through when she passed included some aluminum dining accessories that were probably expensive in the late 30’s when they were married. I do have a number of carving and other small tools from my father (kept in a walnut Gerstner chest I purchased at the time for a [now] ridiculously low cost), including a leather stitching tool and other items he got from Herter’s.

While I do have a lot of scrap, I usually strip out broken items for (potentially) useable parts rather than saving bulky stuff. I probably will start going through my collection of bits in the next few years, maybe not disposing of stuff, but at least sorting it.


----------



## matthewsx

Condolences as well. I’m sitting next to the workbench my father built to construct his airplane (wish I had that too). 

We all have so many things it’s hard to know where to even start. I’ve been sorting and organizing spaces at work I’m now responsible for. Got my workbench set up yesterday. 

Feels good when you see the kids who report to you starting to follow the example you’re trying to set. 

John


----------



## wachuko

Ordered a spare blade for the bandsaw - Starrett - 99165-04-08-1/2 Intenss Pro-Die Band Saw Blade, Bimetal, Intenss Tooth, Raker Set, Positive Rake, 56.5" Length, 1/2" Width, 0.025" Thick, 8-12 TPI

Ordered the following for the Logan 820 lathe.  Could not pass them up for 190.00 each (plus shipping):

New (NOS) 5” 3-jaw Bison 2-piece jaw chuck with integral threaded 1-1/2”x8 tpi mount



New (NOS) 6” 4-jaw  Atlas chuck with integral threaded 1-1/2”x8 tpi mount




ER32 wrench to avoid sharing the one in the other machine…will keep this one in the toolbox for the Logan

Still need to get some dogs for the faceplate… and some chuck keys for the drill chucks….  those were missing


----------



## pontiac428

David makes a nice presentation of the material here. Kudos! 







Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dhal22

I just bought that book a couple of weeks ago.


----------



## DavidR8

Not metal related but I bought a Sheartak helical cutterhead for my DeWalt DW735 planer.

For me this is a very worthwhile upgrade for the DeWalt 935 planer. I can get the stock blades sharpened once for $22. But they just don't last in hardwood. And a new set of blades is $100. If you plane any significant amount of hardwood, you will go through blades like water. Each carbide insert has four cutting edges so basically four blades.

The improvement in surface finish, cutter longevity, and reduced operating noise is significant. I feel good about this since I paid $400 for the planer and $515 for the helical head putting my investment close to the retail price of a new machine without a helical head.


----------



## Doug Gray

A fellow was putting out a bunch of stuff into the back lane ... free for the picking.
#202 Ames Indicator, missing the tip but works freely, the bezel lock is not right either.
#224 Starrett mic , missing most of the rods.
Whitney-Jensen Punch #5 Jr. Absolutely complete with the manual. It lists punches and dies for 50 cents each!

I gave the fellow $40


----------



## woodchucker

I went to a craigs listing to pick up a cabinet... $20.. when I got there the guy says you want this wheelbarrow full of tools for another $20...
*YES!*
Take a look at this haul.. Snap-on wrenches, snap on sockets, Mac Wrenches, Tru-Craft wrench/socket combos.. Albrecht chuck, 5c Collets, Too much.. I know these are crappy photos, I need a new phone, mine is really having some issues.



















The whole listing of items: 



https://imgur.com/a/GR2ow6x


I'll be refinishing the cabinet the same as the map cabinet.  



https://imgur.com/a/5c2ysh8


----------



## mattthemuppet2

that counts as a MASSIVE YOU SUCK! Congrats! Couple of Jacobs superchucks too, 14N?


----------



## woodchucker

Thanks.
They are just too dirty to tell right now. My neighbor came over and used his phone to see Germany and Albrecht on the chuck. I couldn't see it.
They will all get cleaned up, first in purple cleaner (where needed) then evapo rust.   Some just wire wheeled, or scotch brite


----------



## Janderso

woodchucker said:


> Thanks.
> They are just too dirty to tell right now. My neighbor came over and used his phone to see Germany and Albrecht on the chuck. I couldn't see it.
> They will all get cleaned up, first in purple cleaner (where needed) then evapo rust.   Some just wire wheeled, or scotch brite


I can only dream of deals like this.
With all due respect mate, you totally suck


----------



## pontiac428

@woodchucker,  
I hope nobody was run over on the way to pick it up!


----------



## Firstram

DavidR8 said:


> Not metal related but I bought a Sheartak helical cutterhead for my DeWalt DW735 planer.
> 
> For me this is a very worthwhile upgrade for the DeWalt 935 planer. I can get the stock blades sharpened once for $22. But they just don't last in hardwood. And a new set of blades is $100. If you plane any significant amount of hardwood, you will go through blades like water. Each carbide insert has four cutting edges so basically four blades.
> 
> The improvement in surface finish, cutter longevity, and reduced operating noise is significant. I feel good about this since I paid $400 for the planer and $515 for the helical head putting my investment close to the retail price of a new machine without a helical head.


They are serious "bench top" planers and should be amazing with a spiral cutter head, money well spent! I stopped using my Delta DC-380 not long after I bought the DeWalt, even with the crappy knives it was a better planer. Unfortunately, I lost both tools when my shop flooded during Hurricane Florence but I wouldn't hesitate to buy another 13" DeWalt!


----------



## wachuko

- coming soon to my garage!





Got them from @mattthemuppet2 since he now has a prettier one... hehehehe


----------



## wachuko

I do not want to be moving tools from one place to the other... and these are inexpensive enough that is not a big deal... These will go in the toolbox for the Logan 820 lathe

ER32 collet set - 1/16"-3/4"
Cheap Türlen Test Dial Indicator 7 Jewels High Precision 0.0005"
30X Jewelers Loupe


----------



## Steve-F

Quite reasonable collet prices!!  Double tap on your last link though:<)


----------



## wachuko

Steve-F said:


> Quite reasonable collet prices!!  Double tap on your last link though:<)


Got it!  Fixed!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

I bought a set of those Orange ER32 collets, they're well made. Haven't had an opportunity to test runout yet as I've only used them in my collet blocks so far.


----------



## WobblyHand

I have that set of Orange A ER-32 collets.  They are great for the money.  I bought mine about two years ago.  Most have  low TIR, under 0.0005" which is decent, especially for the price point.


----------



## Mill Lee farm

My muppet lump just landed!

Thanks Matt!!!!!


----------



## snoopdog

Missing a few pieces, I think I skinned a knuckle reaching for the 30 bucks, shop grade.


----------



## extropic

@snoopdog 

That is a definite


----------



## Firstram

wachuko said:


> I do not want to be moving tools from one place to the other... and these are inexpensive enough that is not a big deal... These will go in the toolbox for the Logan 820 lathe
> 
> ER32 collet set - 1/16"-3/4"
> Cheap Türlen Test Dial Indicator 7 Jewels High Precision 0.0005"
> 30X Jewelers Loupe
> 
> 
> View attachment 418711


Let us know what you thing about the loupe, it's something I desperately need to buy!


----------



## woodchucker

snoopdog said:


> View attachment 418795
> 
> Missing a few pieces, I think I skinned a knuckle reaching for the 30 bucks, shop grade.


You really suck. Those shop grade are like everyone elses A's


----------



## matthewsx

Thanks to @MrWhoopee I scored quite the deal on a matching pair of Curt 675's $225 for both.




That's my Shar's 4" between them. I'll be keeping one and the other is spoken for by our Craigslist hero.

John


----------



## woodchucker

matthewsx said:


> Thanks to @MrWhoopee I scored quite the deal on a matching pair of Curt 675's $225 for both.
> 
> View attachment 418819
> 
> 
> That's my Shar's 4" between them. I'll be keeping one and the other is spoken for by our Craigslist hero.
> 
> John


2 for the price of less than one ..


----------



## Just for fun

Scored these over the weekend.  A gift from my brother.


----------



## FOMOGO

Ah, yes, but now you need to buy a bigger mill. Obviously a win win situation.



matthewsx said:


> Thanks to @MrWhoopee I scored quite the deal on a matching pair of Curt 675's $225 for both.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Mill Lee farm said:


> My muppet lump just landed!
> 
> Thanks Matt!!!!!
> 
> View attachment 418772


that'll keep you out of trouble for a little while


----------



## Suzuki4evr

extropic said:


> @snoopdog
> 
> That is a definite


I STRONGLY CONCUR ON THAT


----------



## Suzuki4evr

An


matthewsx said:


> Thanks to @MrWhoopee I scored quite the deal on a matching pair of Curt 675's $225 for both.
> 
> View attachment 418819
> 
> 
> That's my Shar's 4" between them. I'll be keeping one and the other is spoken for by our Craigslist hero.
> 
> John


And yes John you get a very well deserved 
 
from me too.

I would love one of those.


----------



## Batmanacw

francist said:


> That is indeed a sweet idea — I never would have thought of that! I’ve used the barrel nuts lots before and they can be had pretty easily from Home Depot. Lee Valley sells them as well. Great use of an existing product for a new purpose.


I'm not sure they make a 0.3" barrel nut. 5/16" won't fit in the hole. Might need to go to 1/4".


----------



## francist

Batmanacw said:


> I'm not sure they make a 0.3" barrel nut. 5/16" won't fit in the hole. Might need to go to 1/4".


Good point -- the ones I've used are close to 3/8" diameter for 1/4" threaded cross fastener so they may very likely be too large. I suppose they could be turned down but at that point the returns may be about the same as making from scratch.


----------



## projectnut

Stopped by a friend's commercial shop yesterday just to say hi and see if he wanted to go out for breakfast.  When I stuck my head through the door he said, "I've got some tooling you might be interested in".  He showed me a box with a mix of a hundred or so drills, reamers, boring tools, and end mills.

All the drills were high end Guhring, National or Chicago Latrobe.  It was an eclectic mix of imperial and standard sizes with the vast majority being metric.  The metrics were odd sizes (at least to me) like 13.2 mm, 15.5 mm, 4.3mm, and many others.  The interesting point was the fact that 90+% of both the metric and imperial drills were piloted.  For instance, the 4.3 mm drills had a 2.2 mm pilot.

He said all the tooling came from a closed shop that he had bought out, so he had no idea what type of work they had been doing in the past.

The pile is now sitting on a bench in my shop waiting for classification and cleaning.  They might be there for some time since yard work and social gatherings will be the focus for the next few weeks.

Here are a couple pictures of the collection.  Maybe someone here has some Ideas on what type of job shop would use this type of tooling.

On Edit:  I forgot to say he gave me the box of tooling at no charge.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Not sure what the pilots are for on the drills, but sometimes you'll get odd sized metric drills for specific threads. So M5x0.8 would call for a 4.2mm drill as standard, maybe 4.3mm for alu or 4.1mm for steel, depending on the desired thread depth. Other ones are a "who knows?", maybe the best closest drill before reaming a hole. I have a bunch of weird metric drills too


----------



## Eyerelief

mattthemuppet2 said:


> I have a bunch of weird metric drills too


For my narrow minded pencil headed self, all metric drills are weird.
Now, where is my complaining stump and slice of apple pie, I need to sit down and work on dividing by 10 and 25.4.
All kidding aside, I have more metric taps and drills than I ever thought I would own.


----------



## erikmannie

Used Criterion S-2 boring head for a 7/8”-20 shank. It does not come with a shank. $69.68 including tax & shipping after I used the eBay coupon.

I don’t know if it takes 1/2” or 3/8” boring bars, but I sure hope that it is 1/2” because I have no 3/8” boring bars. Looking at the photos, it sure looks like a 1/2” model.








It will be one of the shaded green rows seen below:




I went back & forth a lot with the eBay Seller. He removed the shank for me which lowered the purchase price, as I had no use for the shank that he had on it.

He wanted $100 for the boring head, but he came down to $70, & that was before the 20% off coupon. A new one costs $465, it is backordered, & it is not Made in USA.

Here is a Made in USA, New Open Box:


----------



## wachuko

I need to stop watching those Joe Pieczynski videos...



















						AI Pantograph Plans | advanced
					

This comprehensive set of drawings will allow you to reproduce the pantograph shown and used on our YouTube channel "Engraving on a Manual Mill" video. This handy device will expand your manual mill capability and allow you to engrave and reproduce graphics never before possible without an...




					www.advancedinnovationsllc.com
				




Got this along with the plans to eventually make one...


----------



## erikmannie

Used Criterion shank, MT3 with tang, 7/8-20.


----------



## ChazzC

wachuko said:


> I need to stop watching those Joe Pieczynski videos...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AI Pantograph Plans | advanced
> 
> 
> This comprehensive set of drawings will allow you to reproduce the pantograph shown and used on our YouTube channel "Engraving on a Manual Mill" video. This handy device will expand your manual mill capability and allow you to engrave and reproduce graphics never before possible without an...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.advancedinnovationsllc.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got this along with the plans to eventually make one...
> 
> View attachment 418915



If you’re going to engrave, check out Stevohdee’s series; I stopped watching after the first couple because he’s too good free-handing:


----------



## wachuko

ChazzC said:


> If you’re going to engrave, check out Stevohdee’s series; I stopped watching after the first couple because he’s too good free-handing:


Even his bad engraving is a thousand times better than what I can get...  I will give it a try... just to say I did it... but knowing me, I need the templates, lol.


----------



## ChazzC

wachuko said:


> Even his bad engraving is a thousand times better than what I can get...  I will give it a try... just to say I did it... but knowing me, I need the templates, lol.


He’s why I’m still waiting for a decent Laser option (maybe the X-1 once they stop adding improvements).


----------



## paulymorph

silverhawk said:


> I normally don't post over here because most of the stuff I buy is just what everyone else purchases (or of lesser quality, so I'm usually a bit on the humbler side of the purchase).  But this time, it was too valuable to pass up ($11).
> 
> I was watching a woodworking video (talking about using 1-2-3 blocks for wood working setups), and the narrator mentioned 1-2-3 block set up hardware.  Heretofore, I've used the threads in the 1-2-3 blocks, or bolts all the way through the blocks, to do my set ups.  These little kits are pretty nifty.
> 
> View attachment 417724
> 
> 
> The barrel nuts slide right in (some issue with size interference on some 1-2-3 blocks), and have a slot on the side to align the nuts.  Then you just thread things together.
> 
> View attachment 417725
> 
> 
> Makes setups without protruding bolts or nuts very easy.
> 
> Granted, this would be an easy thing to make for yourself, but I had to go make a purchase of them just because the brilliance behind the kit.


Assuming it's not against the policy for this thread, you should share the link to where you got these.


----------



## NCjeeper

My package from Matt arrived today. Heavy as h*ll.
Some random stock, MT4 drills, a nice Jacobs 18N chuck and a 20N that needs some love.


----------



## Janderso

I am low on cold rolled bar stock.
The 2.5” OD is 12L14, the other is 1018.
Steel is getting expensive!!


----------



## Aukai

120 bucks delivered Aloris 3/4" boring bars with inserts, and Aloris Acme threading blades. I have got to get an Acme thread gauge, I have no idea what they fit, but there are blades 3-4-5-6-6-7-8-10-12, and all new looking, I already have the holder, and the boring facing head.


----------



## Eyerelief

Aukai said:


> I have no idea what they fit, but there are blades 3-4-5-6-6-7-8-10-12, and all new looking,


I believe those blades fit -8 series aloris tools, for example mine is a CXA-8.  I am not positive but pretty sure these blades fit all the series, AXA, BXA, CXA,CA, and so on.

Edited to add, this one is not mine, I copied it off of the bay.  #4 and #6 are the most common.


----------



## Aukai

Great, thank you, I have the BXA


----------



## projectnut

Aukai said:


> 120 bucks delivered Aloris 3/4" boring bars with inserts, and Aloris Acme threading blades. I have got to get an Acme thread gauge, I have no idea what they fit, but there are blades 3-4-5-6-6-7-8-10-12, and all new looking, I already have the holder, and the boring facing head.


You probably have enough acme threading tools to last 20 lifetimes.  I've had a #6 tool and holder like the one pictured by eyerelief for many years.  I've cut well over 1,000 threads with it and only had to cut it down about 1/4".  I think the single tool will last me the rest of my life, and I use it on a regular basis.


----------



## woodchucker

Janderso said:


> I am low on cold rolled bar stock.
> The 2.5” OD is 12L14, the other is 1018.
> Steel is getting expensive!!


getting?  I have thought that for years.  The price of wood right now is also seriously expensive still.


----------



## Janderso

woodchucker said:


> getting?  I have thought that for years.  The price of wood right now is also seriously expensive still.


Wood is up and down and still too high.
I noticed a standard 2x4 at home depot was over $9 about 6-9 months ago. Last time I checked they were less than $4.
My local metal supplier sells scrap steel for $.80#.
I picked up about 6 feet of 1 1/4” bar stock and some flat bar for $18. 

The gal at the counter said business was slow. I wonder if a slow down is happening? Should help prices.?


----------



## woodchucker

Janderso said:


> Wood is up and down and still too high.
> I noticed a standard 2x4 at home depot was over $9 about 6-9 months ago. Last time I checked they were less than $4.
> My local metal supplier sells scrap steel for $.80#.
> I picked up about 6 feet of 1 1/4” bar stock and some flat bar for $18.
> 
> The gal at the counter said business was slow. I wonder if a slow down is happening? Should help prices.?


One would think..  That's how supply and demand used to work, but then big box stores opened and the more demand the cheaper prices got as production scaled up (and usually quality went down), until it was so high, that production could not keep up and then prices went up..
it's a mixed up world we live in.. not the same as we were taught.


----------



## pontiac428

What did I buy today... Oh, yeah!  I bought a Langmuir Crossfire XL CNC table with all the trimmings and a Miller Spectrum 875 with the auto-line electrics.

In other news, I think I've got my Atlas sold .  As soon as I forget about it's idiosyncrasies, I'll probably miss it fondly.


----------



## wachuko

pontiac428 said:


> What did I buy today... Oh, yeah!  I bought a Langmuir Crossfire XL CNC table with all the trimmings and a Miller Spectrum 875 with the auto-line electrics.
> 
> In other news, I think I've got my Atlas sold .  As soon as I forget about it's idiosyncrasies, I'll probably miss it fondly.


I want one too.... maybe in a few years.


----------



## Janderso

pontiac428 said:


> What did I buy today... Oh, yeah!  I bought a Langmuir Crossfire XL CNC table with all the trimmings and a Miller Spectrum 875 with the auto-line electrics.
> 
> In other news, I think I've got my Atlas sold .  As soon as I forget about it's idiosyncrasies, I'll probably miss it fondly.


Pics please
Atlas? Which product?


----------



## Gaffer

pontiac428 said:


> What did I buy today... Oh, yeah!  I bought a Langmuir Crossfire XL CNC table with all the trimmings and a Miller Spectrum 875 with the auto-line electrics.
> 
> In other news, I think I've got my Atlas sold .  As soon as I forget about it's idiosyncrasies, I'll probably miss it fondly.


I like mine but haven't been able to spend much time with it of late. I have the parts and materials to add a shelf for a water table recovery/pump tank. I also added and like the Z-axis THC kit. I've been pleased with Langmuir's quality and support. Enjoy!


----------



## pontiac428

Janderso said:


> Pics please
> Atlas? Which product?


The lead time with Langmuir is about 8 weeks, so no pics   but plenty of eye candy on their site!

I've had an Atlas 10" babbitt head H54 that's been keeping me  going for some years now, but it's big brother is out in my main bay getting cleaned up and prepped for installation.  The same coworker that bought my Rong Fu wants the Atlas too!

Nardini Nodus 1760 is the new big iron.  Hard fought and well earned.


----------



## Janderso

pontiac428 said:


> The lead time with Langmuir is about 8 weeks, so no pics   but plenty of eye candy on their site!
> 
> I've had an Atlas 10" babbitt head H54 that's been keeping me  going for some years now, but it's big brother is out in my main bay getting cleaned up and prepped for installation.  The same coworker that bought my Rong Fu wants the Atlas too!
> 
> Nardini Nodus 1760 is the new big iron.  Hard fought and well earned.
> View attachment 419113


Let us know how you like the Nardini, what features it has, etc. Perfect size!
I’ve heard they are excellent lathes.


----------



## pontiac428

Janderso said:


> Let us know how you like the Nardini, what features it has, etc. Perfect size!
> I’ve heard they are excellent lathes.


I'm impressed with the engineering.  The name kept rising to the top as I dug through the selection for several years.  I have been taking photos of the stuff I'm doing, and will put up a build thread once it's moved.  Saving it up for a better story, dig?


----------



## ChazzC

Did a weekly check of FB Marketplace yesterday evening, made an offer (listed at $20, offered $10, Seller was happy with $15 [plus $2 in gas]). I picked it up after a dentist appointment for part 1 of a crown (at least the day wasn't a total loss):




Gage and box in almost new condition.


----------



## woodchucker

ChazzC said:


> Did a weekly check of FB Marketplace yesterday evening, made an offer (listed at $20, offered $10, Seller was happy with $15 [plus $2 in gas]). I picked it up after a dentist appointment for part 1 of a crown (at least the day wasn't a total loss):
> 
> View attachment 419155
> 
> 
> Gage and box in almost new condition.


wow, that's clean.


----------



## ChazzC

woodchucker said:


> wow, that's clean.


Yes, I (almost) felt bad about making an offer, but if you don't ask . . .

After several instances of having an offer I thought was low accepted almost immediately on FBM and eBay, I've started low balling – you never know.


----------



## woodchucker

ChazzC said:


> Yes, I (almost) felt bad about making an offer, but if you don't ask . . .
> 
> After several instances of having an offer I thought was low accepted almost immediately on FBM and eBay, I've started low balling – you never know.


I don't do FB.. I have tried to look at stuff, but they block me after the first look. My neighbor lets me know about stuff she sees and thinks I might want. I wish the FB Market place didn't require the account.  Oh well, not going to join anytime soon.


----------



## ChazzC

woodchucker said:


> I don't do FB.. I have tried to look at stuff, but they block me after the first look. My neighbor lets me know about stuff she sees and thinks I might want. I wish the FB Market place didn't require the account.  Oh well, not going to join anytime soon.


I only check about once a week, and only got an account because it’s the only way to find out what my relatives are up to.


----------



## wachuko

Goodies arrived... oilers, ER32 nut wrench, horizontal dial gauge, 2-56 taps, ER32 collets, bandsaw blade, etc.


----------



## savarin

Guess where these came from?
Advertised as ratchet spanners, I knew they weren't but I wanted them because of the smaller sizes, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5 mm


----------



## Aukai

Metric ignition/midget wrenches


----------



## DAM 79

Been wanting a K&T Mill for a while now and went and checked this one out last week and going to pick it up Tuesday comes with a bunch of tooling and has the vertical head and arbor supports and Tons of Boring bars I went thru and checked all the speeds and feeds and everything worked like it should I have read that this machine runs off hydraulic is there anything else I should check before I take home ?? The mill was used to make plastic parts mainly and only reason for the sale is because owner is retiring


----------



## FOMOGO

Looks like a really nice mill, and great that it has the vertical head, and all that tooling. Mike


----------



## pontiac428

DAM 79 said:


> Been wanting a K&T Mill for a while now and went and checked this one out last week and going to pick it up Tuesday comes with a bunch of tooling and has the vertical head and arbor supports and Tons of Boring bars I went thru and checked all the speeds and feeds and everything worked like it should I have read that this machine runs off hydraulic is there anything else I should check before I take home ?? The mill was used to make plastic parts mainly and only reason for the sale is because owner is retiring


The only thing you should be sure to check is the capacity of your power panel.  Nice mill!


----------



## rabler

wachuko said:


> Goodies arrived... oilers, ER32 nut wrench, horizontal dial gauge, 2-56 taps, ER32 collets, bandsaw blade, etc.


The Haribo gummy bears don't look like they belong in that collection.  Maybe I was brain washed by Sesame Street.


----------



## wachuko

DAM 79 said:


> Been wanting a K&T Mill for a while now and went and checked this one out last week and going to pick it up Tuesday comes with a bunch of tooling and has the vertical head and arbor supports and Tons of Boring bars I went thru and checked all the speeds and feeds and everything worked like it should I have read that this machine runs off hydraulic is there anything else I should check before I take home ?? The mill was used to make plastic parts mainly and only reason for the sale is because owner is retiring


Looks to be in pristine condition!! Wow!! 

Abom79 has one that he has been sharing videos on it...


----------



## DAM 79

pontiac428 said:


> The only thing you should be sure to check is the capacity of your power panel.  Nice mill!


Thanks yes I have a 20Hp American rotary set up power supply won’t be a problem I also got a vice and some Face mills with it and there is a bunch of tooling not pictured so I am thinking I’ll have some stuff to possibly sell once I get it all home and go thru


----------



## Aukai

I have ordered 4 of the Reilang oilers over the years, one came without the gummy bears, I was upset, there must have been a supply chain problem.


----------



## DAM 79

Here’s some more pictures


----------



## Aukai

That's an impressive setup


----------



## DAM 79

I am also looking at a Davis KeySeater the he has and a Hardinge Lathe that are both in excellent condition with very little wear
My problem is I need a bigger shop to put all this stuff and I’m hopefully that is going to change this fall and I’m probably going to sell a few things like one of my mills and I just put the surface grinder for sale on Craigslist . I’ll put it up for sale here later today


----------



## NCjeeper

My plunder from the Labor day weekend flea market.
I scored the Kennedy box for $35 bucks! The Starrett #228 hub mic was 30.


----------



## DAM 79

NCjeeper said:


> My plunder from the Labor day weekend flea market.
> I scored the Kennedy box for $35 bucks! The Starrett #228 hub mic was 30.
> View attachment 419223


Looks like you have a few end mills there also what size ?? And is the a Nmbt50 tool holder ?


----------



## NCjeeper

DAM 79 said:


> Looks like you have a few end mills there also what size ?? And is the a Nmbt50 tool holder ?


40 taper holder and 1" roughing end mills. $15 bucks each for the end mills and 20 bucks for the 40 taper tool holder.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i spent few hours walking the tool/ flea market. First thing i found was two micrometers, 0-25mm and 25-50mm bought them both for 7$. Then i found and bought some drainage grates 5$ for all 3 and close by bought that wheel spacer 2$. Couple rows down i did found a fan guard for an electric motor i have 1$. Then i bought an electric heater new for 7 $ i plan to turn i in to a tire hot plate. Then i bought me a small barrel for 5$ and the skateboard and 5 wire cable i bought because of the last buy, the little green machine, it has an electric motor that turns a gearbox and upper and lower roller turn at the same time. I think it's a Metal stitcher for doing edges on sheet metal but it has a place for coolant and the lower roller is corrugated, it was 15$ and the wire and skateboard 6$. It's very heavy so i need a some wheels to drag it half a mile to my car.


----------



## erikmannie

New, open box Yuasa 4MT shank with tang, 1-1/2”-18 thread. I offered the Seller $5 under asking price & he said okay. This set me back $53.35 including tax & shipping:


----------



## Aukai

13 HSS blanks for 50.00
5 MoMax Cobalt HSS
1 Rex 95
3 DOALL M41
1 Hayhes Stellite?
3 unidentified


----------



## snoopdog

Well, got the black diamond sharpener, missing a few fractional collets, not many tho, has all the letter and number sizes, 350. The guy had this rockwell grinder on a pedestal, reversible motor with a green wheel, asked him about it, brought it home for 35. He threw in some taps and other stuff, pretty happy.


----------



## extropic

@snoopdog 

I think I understand your username better now. You seem to be consistently snooping out some screaming good buys.


----------



## wachuko

snoopdog said:


> Well, got the black diamond sharpener, missing a few fractional collets, not many tho, has all the letter and number sizes, 350. The guy had this rockwell grinder on a pedestal, reversible motor with a green wheel, asked him about it, brought it home for 35. He threw in some taps and other stuff, pretty happy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 419315
> View attachment 419316
> View attachment 419317


Dude!!!  Wow!!


----------



## snoopdog

extropic said:


> @snoopdog
> 
> I think I understand your username better now. You seem to be consistently snooping out some screaming good buys.


I have been burned, believe me, but I have had some good fortune lately.


----------



## Janderso

woodchucker said:


> I don't do FB.. I have tried to look at stuff, but they block me after the first look. My neighbor lets me know about stuff she sees and thinks I might want. I wish the FB Market place didn't require the account.  Oh well, not going to join anytime soon.


, yeah, I don’t do FB either.
My wife loves it, the marketplace part seems pretty good but the social part is confusing to me.
I am socially retarded though.


----------



## Janderso

Aukai said:


> I have ordered 4 of the Reilang oilers over the years, one came without the gummy bears, I was upset, there must have been a supply chain problem.


We use to order supplies from a company called Healy & Company. They always put bags of Fritos in with the order.


----------



## Janderso

snoopdog said:


> Well, got the black diamond sharpener, missing a few fractional collets, not many tho, has all the letter and number sizes, 350. The guy had this rockwell grinder on a pedestal, reversible motor with a green wheel, asked him about it, brought it home for 35. He threw in some taps and other stuff, pretty happy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 419315
> View attachment 419316
> View attachment 419317


Love the grinder


----------



## woodchucker

Janderso said:


> , yeah, I don’t do FB either.
> My wife loves it, the marketplace part seems pretty good but the social part is confusing to me.
> I am socially retarded though.


me too, I am socially retarded.. My social network, is HM, Lumberjocks, and Youtube.. I think I am going to take a break from HM though. I keep rubbing the admins the wrong way.


----------



## wachuko

woodchucker said:


> me too, I am socially retarded.. My social network, is HM, Lumberjocks, and Youtube.. I think I am going to take a break from HM though. I keep rubbing the admins the wrong way.



I sure hope you stick around...


----------



## Larry$

ChazzC said:


> My philosophy is that my survivors can throw stuff away.


That's my wife's plan, not mine. The fact that I have 1/2 my shop full of stuff I "might" use has nothing to do with it.


----------



## IamNotImportant

today.. i bought some UH Delrin.. 
25.5 feet of 2.25 inch round 


then several blocks of it plus a Tesa indicator (Swiss), SPI Rule, 2 MHC indicator holders and on MHC Dial indicator and the other, not sure yet. 
some aluminum that i will used to test with.. a Sterriett bevel edge square 


oh yeah.. the AXA cut off holder.. Phase II.. which i have the post.. 
And to top it off.. a new Rubbermaid cooler.. i guess i can use it for a "coolant" system in the future.. ain't that cool!

Don't know how well i did.. but out the door for 280.00 for all of it.


----------



## erikmannie

woodchucker said:


> me too, I am socially retarded.. My social network, is HM, Lumberjocks, and Youtube.. I think I am going to take a break from HM though. I keep rubbing the admins the wrong way.



HM is the only social media that I am on because it really is a friendly place 99.9+% of the time.

I myself have also been tactfully corrected/redirected by the mods in the last year.

I was a moderator at electricbike.com, & I quit because I was too selfish to volunteer my time. I don’t mind working, but I won’t do it for free. I don’t know if the mods here are volunteers, but if they are it is very kind of them to volunteer their time.


----------



## Eddyde

erikmannie said:


> HM is the only social media that I am on because it really is a friendly place 99.9+% of the time.
> 
> I myself have also been tactfully chastised by the mods in the last year.
> 
> I was a moderator at electricbike.com, & I quit because I was too selfish to volunteer my time. I don’t mind working, but I won’t do it for free. I don’t know if the mods here are volunteers, but if they are it is very kind of them to volunteer their time.



Nobody gets paid here at HM, we are a nonprofit, educational entity.


----------



## Janderso

IamNotImportant said:


> today.. i bought some UH Delrin..
> 25.5 feet of 2.25 inch round
> View attachment 419406
> 
> then several blocks of it plus a Tesa indicator (Swiss), SPI Rule, 2 MHC indicator holders and on MHC Dial indicator and the other, not sure yet.
> some aluminum that i will used to test with.. a Sterriett bevel edge square
> View attachment 419410
> 
> oh yeah.. the AXA cut off holder.. Phase II.. which i have the post..
> And to top it off.. a new Rubbermaid cooler.. i guess i can use it for a "coolant" system in the future.. ain't that cool!
> 
> Don't know how well i did.. but out the door for 280.00 for all of it.


That’s a screaming deal. That stuff is like gold $$$$$$$!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Janderso

erikmannie said:


> HM is the only social media that I am on because it really is a friendly place 99.9+% of the time.
> 
> I myself have also been tactfully corrected/redirected by the mods in the last year.
> 
> I was a moderator at electricbike.com, & I quit because I was too selfish to volunteer my time. I don’t mind working, but I won’t do it for free. I don’t know if the mods here are volunteers, but if they are it is very kind of them to volunteer their time.


I agree what you said about our mods. They are great. I’ve had my lips slapped a few times .
Some sites are just ugly.


----------



## matthewsx

Small forge, $100.00







John


----------



## brino

matthewsx said:


> Small forge, $100.00


Nice!
Looks built on an old barbecue grill frame. Portable, so why not!

I might have to copy that.
Thanks for sharing it!

Brian


----------



## Janderso

matthewsx said:


> Small forge, $100.00
> 
> View attachment 419428
> 
> 
> View attachment 419429
> 
> 
> John


I don’t know, that seems reasonable.


----------



## matthewsx

brino said:


> Nice!
> Looks built on an old barbecue grill frame. Portable, so why not!
> 
> I might have to copy that.
> Thanks for sharing it!
> 
> Brian


Yes, definitely from an old gas grill. They're free for the taking around here.

John


----------



## matthewsx

Janderso said:


> I don’t know, that seems reasonable.


Considering it came with the tank I'm happy, same guy I bought the 2 x 72 grinder from and he gave me another piece that goes with it for contact wheel grinding.

With the forge, belt grinder and heat treat oven it seems I'm getting into knife making....

John


----------



## Ben17484

I’ve a few lathe tools for sale on marketplace and last week someone messaged me via one of my adverts to ask I buy tools/tooling. He’s helping sell off items from a business that’s closing down, so I bought the following for £100 ($115):








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## erikmannie

I got these from @matthemuppet2

I paid $700 plus $22.50 shipping.

The boring bars are solid carbide. The 3” end mill (which Matt gave me for free) is just a conversation piece.

A lot of the drills & end mills are solid carbide.






He also threw in this round bar for free:




Thanks to Matt!


----------



## Christianstark

Received my 2HP 3Phase motor for my 75mm x 2000mm belt grinder build (3" x 72") today. Now I just need to pick a VFD for this use-case and the only materials I think I need to procure are bearings and other random hardware, and an 8" slug of aluminum round bar for the drive pully. 

Question. I have a good bit of 5.75" Aluminum round bar, as well as other materials. Any ideas on the possibility of making an 8" drive wheel out of multiple pieces bolted together and then turned to size? I am a bit worried at 3500 RPMs the whell spinning apart. A 8" diameter slug of aluminum is prohibitively pricy.


----------



## extropic

@Christianstark

Rather than thinking of hogging it out of solid, I would be thinking of welding/brazing shapes together to minimize material removal.
If you don't know of a nearby scrap dealer who also resells, now is a good opportunity to look for one. If you need help with that, start a new thread asking "Any Good Scrap Resellers In/Near Atlanta?".

McMaster sells a 3" long (if you can call 3" 'long) piece of 8" OD x 1" wall 6061-T6511 Tube for $33.
Add end plates with hubs and weld it together. If you don't weld Aluminum, you might also get help with that from a member.

No telling what you might find at scrap dealer so stay open to using steel instead.

You'll certainly have to balance the assembly, but that might be the case if machined from solid. All materials may not be sufficiently homogeneous to be well enough balanced for 3500 RPM.


----------



## NCjeeper

I scored this (shop made?) air driven tool post grinder off of Ebay for cheap.


----------



## extropic

NCjeeper said:


> I scored this (shop made?) air driven tool post grinder off of Ebay for cheap.
> View attachment 419631


My guess: you've got an air bearing spindle (light duty tube with connection at 90° to the spindle?).
The flat on the rear shaft suggests a drive pully should mount there.


----------



## NCjeeper

extropic said:


> The flat on the rear shaft suggests a drive pully should mount there.


The rear shaft goes in an AXA holder.


----------



## extropic

NCjeeper said:


> The rear shaft goes in an AXA holder.



Let us know how that works out.


----------



## 682bear

Today I picked up a small Jacobs chuck...




It will hold from 3/8" to 1" shanks. It's in pretty good shape, just dirty. The jaws show minor use, but are still decent. It opens and closes very smoothly and has a MT4 arbor... that is perfect for my Buffalo Forge camelback drill press.

Not too bad for $28 I think...

-Bear


----------



## 682bear

Geez... I guess I was so excited about the chuck that I forgot about the other half of my daily haul...




3/16" letter and number stamps.

-Bear


----------



## erikmannie

I will need to stop buying tools very soon because I am *definitely out of room*, & my financial landscape changes (degrades) after Thanksgiving.

Used 1” hole, 3” square Criterion boring head with 1-1/2”-18 threads.

I asked very nicely, & the eBay Seller knocked $15.00 off of the asking price.










This set me back $175.88, including tax and shipping.


----------



## Firstram

What a clean looking boring head!


----------



## devils4ever

I just got this Shars No 00 Keyway Cutting Broach Set. 

I'm using it to cut a keyway in a 3/8" bore with a 3/32" key. I believe the shim is only used for the 1/8" key, is that correct?


----------



## WobblyHand

I purchased a similar but noname set.  It came with two shims.  For the pulleys I broached I found 1 shim wasn't quite enough.  Two shims were slightly too much.  So you will have to experiment.  It will be obvious if you need shimming after the first broach.  Fortunately shims are easy to make.


----------



## BGHansen

devils4ever said:


> I just got this Shars No 00 Keyway Cutting Broach Set.
> 
> I'm using it to cut a keyway in a 3/8" bore with a 3/32" key. I believe the shim is only used for the 1/8" key, is that correct?


I'm thinking for the quick and dirty you could set the broach with a shim behind it in the bushing at the full-stroked position and measure the height from the back of the bushing to the edge of the broach.  Take a caliper set to that dimension and set a jaw on the ID of your pulley/work and scratch the other side to mark the depth of the keyway.

Or, as WobblyHand mentioned above, just go for it and see if you need to add a little more shim.  First pass without the shim, and do a second pass with the shim if the first pass isn't deep enough.

Bruce


----------



## Cheeseking

Nice. Looks like a super handy little broach set. I’ve always had broaches on the wish list but the cost vs utilization just never made me pull the trigger. I’m going to check that one out tho seeing as Shars is only a few miles from me. 
Thanks for posting that.


----------



## devils4ever

I think I was correct in the 3/32" broach not needing the shim. See this page from the Shars catalog.


----------



## devils4ever

Here's the keyway cut without any shims. It looks a tad shallow, but it is a small key.


----------



## BGHansen

devils4ever said:


> Here's the keyway cut without any shims. It looks a tad shallow, but it is a small key.


Wow, that's a long gear!  Nice job!

Bruce


----------



## devils4ever

1". I wanted it long since it's Aluminum to prevent rust.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Not sure what the actual use is, some are machine screw (obsolete) size Nr 20. That works out to 0.320, a 5/16 maybe. Thread pitch are Nr 20-18, Nr 20-16, 1/2-16. There are some others, including a couple of tapered. I am not familiar with those, just waiting 'til they get here to figure out if they are worth keeping or for making lathe tools. They were cheap so worth prowling.


----------



## Christianstark

Picked this up off Amazon. Only have a set of smaller 4" precision ground stones, and some $3 oil stones from HF. Tad more pricy but I got these.


----------



## WhyW8

Picked up a used HF horizontal/vertical band saw - $20 -- could not pass this one up, even though my garage is over stuffed

Needs a little work on the guide rollers and some love


----------



## wachuko

WhyW8 said:


> Picked up a used HF horizontal/vertical band saw - $20 -- could not pass this one up, even though my garage is over stuffed
> 
> Needs a little work on the guide rollers and some love
> 
> View attachment 419933
> View attachment 419934


20.00!!!??


----------



## WhyW8

Yep $20.00 and of course $6.00 in gas


----------



## savarin

WhyW8 said:


> Picked up a used HF horizontal/vertical band saw - $20 --


Awesome,


----------



## francist

And the fuschia colour even matches your “W” avatar!


----------



## erikmannie

I bought 2 of these new Made in USA 1” HSS shank, carbide tipped stubby boring bars.

I got 5% off plus a little help on the shipping when I bought 2, the total for which was $88.47 including tax and shipping.


----------



## matthewsx

Hold down kit. 




And a small vise for my bench at work. 



John


----------



## Dhal22

WhyW8 said:


> Picked up a used HF horizontal/vertical band saw - $20 -- could not pass this one up, even though my garage is over stuffed
> 
> Needs a little work on the guide rollers and some love
> 
> View attachment 419933
> View attachment 419934




Needs work on the color as well.


----------



## 7milesup

WhyW8 said:


> Picked up a used HF horizontal/vertical band saw - $20 -- could not pass this one up, even though my garage is over stuffed
> 
> Needs a little work on the guide rollers and some love
> 
> View attachment 419933
> View attachment 419934


----------



## hman

Ya done good on the price!
I agree about the color ... never did like that crummy red paint.  You'll probably want to add a belt cover as well.


----------



## WhyW8

Dhal22 said:


> Needs work on the color as well.


Yeah, I agree the color is terrible.. -- going to see what I have in the paint cabinet


hman said:


> Ya done good on the price!
> I agree about the color ... never did like that crummy red paint.  You'll probably want to add a belt cover as well.


Yeah, not much of a fan on exposed open pulleys - will have to fab something up for that


----------



## Christianstark

Dhal22 said:


> Needs work on the color as well.


It’ll buff out…


----------



## WhyW8

Well, I did not have any suitable paint in the paint cabinet so I had to let loose of some green and buy a quart of Rust-Oleum to dress up the old Band Saw -- That much better, she earns a spot in the garage.


----------



## Dhal22

Jeeze, that was quick.   And much better color.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Bi11Hudson said:


> Not sure what the actual use is, some are machine screw (obsolete) size Nr 20. That works out to 0.320, a 5/16 maybe. Thread pitch are Nr 20-18, Nr 20-16, 1/2-16. There are some others, including a couple of tapered. I am not familiar with those, just waiting 'til they get here to figure out if they are worth keeping or for making lathe tools. They were cheap so worth prowling.


*WELL*, I try to learn something new every day. Most times it's trivial stuff, sometimes something that I knew way back when before the strokes. Medical recovery??? In any case it seems that machine screws go up to at least Nr. 20. I thought all this time they only went to Nr 15. I checked the diameter of the numbered taps, they fit the machine screw series. (0.060+(y X 0.013) Nearly fractional, but not quite. They are keepers, if no more than conversation pieces. In the past, I have used off the wall threads and left hand threads on non-critical fasteners just to mess with someone's mind. But my own stuff now-a-days, naaggghhhh.

There are several pipe taps, 1/8 IPT? and smaller, a couple *not tapered*. I seem to have stumbled onto large scale steam model builder's tools. Maybe British sizes for the ones not marked??? Some have the square head one associates with taps. Some have a flat tang like a Morse taper tool. The shanks are not tapered, just the tang. I've never seen that before, they must be very old.

.


----------



## 7milesup

Didn't really "buy" it today, but it is a replacement for an existing Palmgren buffer.  My existing buffer is supposed to have three primary speeds of 900, 1800 & 3600 RPM, with the ability to adjust the speeds in between in +/- 100 RPM increments.  After less than a year, the 100 RPM increment malfunctioned so that if you were at 900 RPM and tried to bump up to 1000 RPM, it would just continue to accelerate until it was at 3600 RPM.  Rather scary the first time it happened because I didn't know if it would stop accelerating.
Took FOREVER to get ahold of someone at Palmgren (CH Hanson Group, actually), and when I told them what was going on, the guy just sighed.  Apparently, they had a factory that messed up the electronics in these things, so he said he would send me a new one and just keep the old one.  This was at least 6 or 8 months ago.  Then the other day, here comes the UPS guy who dropped off a big box.  I thought, "what in tarnation did the wife order now."  Actually, I didn't think that at all since the wife hardly ever orders anything.  My mind was frantically racing, trying to remember my late nights and if I had been drinking while hovering over a "buy now" button.  After looking at the box, I realized it was my new buffer.  I had all but given up on ever getting it.  Thanks, George at CH Hanson Group!

EDIT:  Holy crap, this new one is about $750 at Summit Racing, which is where I bought the other one for less than $300 (different model number).  Crikey


----------



## lordbeezer

Well I didn’t buy this. Brother brought from his jobs stainless steel scrap bin. I’ll use it for something.


----------



## pontiac428

lordbeezer said:


> Well I didn’t buy this. Brother brought from his jobs stainless steel scrap bin. I’ll use it for something.


Flip it over, and tell everyone it's a certiflat welding table.  From this altitude it looks right to me.


----------



## rdean

I went to the flea market today with the wife and spied this wooden box under some other junk.
This was inside.



There was no price on the box so I found a guy working there to ask.   I expected he would have some stupid high price and I would say no thank you and put the box back.
He opened the box and said $15.00
I almost twisted my wrist trying to get my wallet out of my pocket.





It is a 0-500 mm or 20" digital scale with the battery and works fine.

I think I did OK!

Ray


----------



## Cheeseking

Picked up a Haimer Centro. Bit of a splurge yes but I do enough locating round work on my Tormach to semi justify and last job po’d me enough to replace my cheepy shars coax. OMG it’s night and day and for the cost damn better be. 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wachuko

Tired of the heat in the garage... and will not be installing an A/C for another year (or two)... so ordered a fan today...  Got it all from MSC Direct... from their recent sales/discount brochure...

149.00 for the fan





I have an inexpensive outside micrometer... but wanted a better quality unit, so while I was there... got this one for 150.12




And why not also add a spiral flute 2-56 tap.... and a replacement for the 2.5mm drill bit that I broke the other day... got to keep the set complete...  oh, and look... a 1/8" thick parallel set for 64.09!  Sure, why not...  Almost done with @davidpbest list of must have...




And from eBay, ordered a new bearing with snap ring for the Wells-Index... 5204 bearing...


----------



## NCjeeper

I think you will enjoy that Mitutoyo mic. I have the same one and I love it.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

*Awright, what did I just buy and did I pay too much?* I have a B&S dividing head, a small one that is maybe two thirds the size of a BS-0. And I have a Chinese BS-0(Grizzly), _somewhere_. My shop was broken into a while back and last time I needed it, I couldn't find it. It isn't shiney and is very heavy. Knowing me, I put it someplace safe and forgot where. Then there's a 4" rotary table with a dividing attachment (fraction plates) for use on my Atlas mill. All of my stuff is fairly small, I do mostly model work.

Be that as it may, I ran across an eBay listing that I just *had* to bid on. No one had bid so I posted one for 10 minutes or so to go. It was $125 bux (+~$40 shipping), a little bigger than a BS-0. I figure that at that price it was reasonable if it was in good shape. What caught my eye was the external gearing. I'm not sure what it does, but I figured it tied the head to the table feed to do spiral shapes.(??)

It hasn't shipped yet, and likely will go UPS for the weight. UPS is questionable right now. . . So, any ideas of what the gears are??


----------



## Christianstark

OK, so I bought a few things, but only 1 was today.

First,  I bought a 2hp 3 phase motor for my belt grinder project. This came Friday,  so I had to bore and drill for face mount. Secondly, I just purchased 2. boxes of 6002 bearings with rubber seals for swap with my 1 year old PM-833TV milling machine. The z axis is a bit crunchy so I plan on replacing the bearings.


----------



## twhite

Just received this Stanley 10” Machinist level. It is in excellent condition. I will give the base a bit of loving to remove the staining. Then I will measure and see how much it can measure at 12”. I had a hard time getting any real info on these. Best I was able to find was .007 over 12” per hash line. I will verify tomorrow at work on the surface plate. 

I really like the adjustment on these. I found the patent just to see. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





















Cutting oil is my blood.


----------



## finsruskw

Snagged these off C/L over the weekend.
Suburban angler plates a 4x4x4 and a 3x3x3\
Plus a micro sine bar that I know not how to use as well as this Z-1000 WEE block kit.
 Has 4 of the tiny parts missing
Again, I have no clue how to use this either.
The angle blocks are nice though!


----------



## twhite

finsruskw said:


> Snagged these off C/L over the weekend.
> Suburban angler plates a 4x4x4 and a 3x3x3\
> Plus a micro sine bar that I know not how to use as well as this Z-1000 WEE block kit.
> Has 4 of the tiny parts missing
> Again, I have no clue how to use this either.
> The angle blocks are nice though!



Some great stuff. The sine bar is dead simple to use. Using your IPhone. Just enter the angle you want to setup and press the sine button. Once that shows up multiply the result by 5. 5 being the distance between the pins. The end result is the amount you lift one edge of the bar. That will give you the exact angle. 


Cutting oil is my blood.


----------



## finsruskw

Great! Now all I gotta do is get an I phone!!


----------



## mmcmdl

finsruskw said:


> Great! Now all I gotta do is get an I phone!!


Calculator works fine Fin .


----------



## twhite

finsruskw said:


> Great! Now all I gotta do is get an I phone!!



It will work the same on any scientific calculator. Be aware some calculators you have to hit sine before entering the angle. 

The simplest test is to do 30 deg. As the sine of 30 is .500 

A very handy thing to have is a trig table booklet like this. 











Cutting oil is my blood.


----------



## ChazzC

Two posts in one – 1) I received a 2" x 1-1/4" Kant-Twist clamp from MSC (via eBay, saved $8 over buying direct including a $12 "web-price" discount: I'm picking up another one from Grainger tomorrow - on clearance for an additional $8 savings, but they only had the one); 2) MSC has worse packaging/shipping people than Amazon:




Not that it's going to break, but the way UPS tossing things around I'm happy that the handles are still straight (you can see the gouges in the carton where the clamp bounced against the sides).


----------



## Bi11Hudson

*Just an aside*, the dividing head happened to be in the same town as me. On this discovery, the vendor agreed to hand deliver it, dividing heads are *heavy *and hand delivery was quicker, easier, and cheaper. The best part is I got refunded the nearly 50 bux shipping so can acquire other tooling with that money.

As it turns out, I have a couple of fraction plates that I salvaged long years back that are the prime numbers 51-97. (I think, they cover 50-100 round numbers) They were much too large to fit to my small devices, but it looks like they can be used on this one. Now I just need a machine large enough to fit it on. Which involves a shop strong enough to take a heavy machine. Which involves. . .  Seems things are falling into place, it just takes time and patience. Maybe I'll still be alive when that Bridgeport shows up.


Bi11Hudson said:


> ~ It hasn't shipped yet, and likely will go UPS for the weight. UPS is questionable right now. . . So, any ideas of what the gears are??
> View attachment 420157


----------



## wachuko

Just wanted one… only 65.00 new from eBay… Shars Precision Toolmakers Vise 3 x 4" CNC Vise .0002


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> Just wanted one… only 65.00 new from eBay… Shars Precision Toolmakers Vise 3 x 4" CNC Vise .0002
> 
> View attachment 420442


Have something similar, save for the holes for the hold downs.  Mine has slots all the way around, like on the front.  It's a very useful small vise.  Jaw lift is very low.  Recommend you replace the screw with a quality stud and nut.  Leave the stud a little long so you can adjust the angle for more reliable clamping.


----------



## pontiac428

WobblyHand said:


> Have something similar, save for the holes for the hold downs.  Mine has slots all the way around, like on the front.  It's a very useful small vise.  Jaw lift is very low.  Recommend you replace the screw with a quality stud and nut.  Leave the stud a little long so you can adjust the angle for more reliable clamping.
> View attachment 420463


Ooh, I bet those work nice in pairs...


----------



## wachuko

Ohhhh... that feeling when you buy something and forget to check with your other preferred vendor and he has it 1/2 off what you paid... got to love that feeling...

The vendor on eBay where I bought the small vise, Discount Machine Shop... they had the 1/8" parallel set 1/2 of what I paid with MSC Industrial Direct... 

Anyway... got a few of these clamps with the round knobs...


----------



## WobblyHand

I bought 5 PCB's (minimum order) for my ELS that I recently designed.  

What an odd experience that was.  The KiCAD program has a plugin that takes your design and bundles up the data files and sends them to PCBWay for a quote.  After convincing myself that everything was good, (don't know how I would really know for sure,) I pushed the button and the data was transferred a world away.  In less than 10 minutes the files were checked and had a quote.  There was a bit of an odd struggle trying to figure out their forms, but after it was all said and done it cost me $34.13 including shipping.  Should arrive in early October.  Sure hope the boards come out OK.  Haven't ever made my own boards before.


----------



## Ben17484

Bought 4 Smart and Brown Collets for sizes I don’t already have 







Turns out they’re for a different sized Smart and Brown lathe….  (bottom one is from my existing set that fits the lathe)






Are these any use to me for anything else? Or should I just sell them on?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WobblyHand

Finally, a tool I bought.  These just came in.  Still waiting on the R8 arbor!  Hope it will be here within a week.  AliExpress, so there's always the element of surprise.  @MrWhoopee thinks these are good.  Hope my copy proves that out.  The anticipation...


----------



## DavidR8

WobblyHand said:


> Finally, a tool I bought.  These just came in.  Still waiting on the R8 arbor!  Hope it will be here within a week.  AliExpress, so there's always the element of surprise.  @MrWhoopee thinks these are good.  Hope my copy proves that out.  The anticipation...


I have one like that from Banggood. It produces a remarkable finish.


----------



## rwm

WobblyHand said:


> Finally, a tool I bought.  These just came in.  Still waiting on the R8 arbor!  Hope it will be here within a week.  AliExpress, so there's always the element of surprise.  @MrWhoopee thinks these are good.  Hope my copy proves that out.  The anticipation...


Can you post a link to the sales page?


----------



## WobblyHand

rwm said:


> Can you post a link to the sales page?


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2255799996995364.html  for the face mill.  You will have to find an R8 arbor for it.  I believe this one is for a 7/16-20 R8.  https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2255799862326557.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802C95wSI


----------



## ChazzC

Joe Pie (Advanced Innovations, LLC) replenished his stock of RT Setup Tools, and his shirts are on sale, too:



Now I'll not only be the best looking guy at the gym, but also the best dressed!

RT Tool in use: Joe Pie Unique Tool


----------



## wachuko

ChazzC said:


> Joe Pie (Advanced Innovations, LLC) replenished his stock of RT Setup Tools, and his shirts are on sale, too:
> 
> View attachment 420532
> 
> Now I'll not only be the best looking guy at the gym, but also the best dressed!
> 
> RT Tool in use: Joe Pie Unique Tool
> 
> View attachment 420537
> View attachment 420538


Hahahahhaha I knew I should have gone for the t-shirt as well, lol


----------



## MrWhoopee

WobblyHand said:


> Finally, a tool I bought.  These just came in.  Still waiting on the R8 arbor!  Hope it will be here within a week.  AliExpress, so there's always the element of surprise.  @MrWhoopee thinks these are good.  Hope my copy proves that out.  The anticipation...


I just received another pack of those "Lamina" inserts, though I'm not sure why I ordered them. I've been using that cutter mostly for roughing pre-hardened 4140 and lathe tool shanks. At 160 rpm, .060 DOC, the original corners on the original inserts still show no visible signs of wear. At this rate the first 4 inserts could last a very long time.  I'm not getting a beautiful finish, but under those conditions I don't expect it.


----------



## WobblyHand

MrWhoopee said:


> I just received another pack of those "Lamina" inserts, though I'm not sure why I ordered them. I've been using that cutter mostly for roughing pre-hardened 4140 and lathe tool shanks. At 160 rpm, .060 DOC, the original corners on the original inserts still show no visible signs of wear. At this rate the first 4 inserts could last a very long time.  I'm not getting a beautiful finish, but under those conditions I don't expect it.


If I get 1/2 that DOC on my PM25 for A36, I'd be pretty happy.  Good to know the inserts are long lasting.  I have SEKT inserts.  SEHT are for aluminum?


----------



## MrWhoopee

WobblyHand said:


> If I get 1/2 that DOC on my PM25 for A36, I'd be pretty happy.  Good to know the inserts are long lasting.  I have SEKT inserts.  SEHT are for aluminum?


No, the third letter just indicates dimensional tolerance for the insert, nothing to do with suitability for different materials. That would be determined by grade of carbide and coating, a much more difficult determination to make with Chinese inserts. So far, my experience has been that the  SE*T inserts are generally better suited to aluminum. I have a face mill and 3 end mills (10, 14 and 20mm dia.) that use those inserts. I bought the end mills hoping they would replace solid carbide in moderately hard (Rc 35-45) steels. I also ordered an assortment of different grades/coatings inserts for them. None of the inserts have performed well when I tried them in steel, though they may work acceptably in CRS/HRS. Results may be different with genuine brand name inserts.


----------



## Mill Lee farm

WobblyHand said:


> View attachment 420478


‘Whopping Lie Industries’

Fantastic business name sir!


----------



## ChazzC

wachuko said:


> Hahahahhaha I knew I should have gone for the t-shirt as well, lol
> 
> View attachment 420545


ALWAYS optimize the shipping charges: gives you another reason (like we needed one) to buy more tools!


----------



## NCjeeper

Scored this new Starrett scriber for 2 bucks at a flea market Saturday.


----------



## twhite

Scored a Starrett 124-A 2-8 inside mic and 3 dial indicators .0001 All 4 items for $25. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






Cutting oil is my blood.


----------



## ChazzC

NCjeeper said:


> Scored this new Starrett scriber for 2 bucks at a flea market Saturday.
> View attachment 420655


Unless you had to drive an hour to get there, you . . . (well, you can fill in the blank).


----------



## twhite

I go to swap-meets often. That is my mental therapy. So paying 5.30 a gallon and burning 3 or 4 is worth my mental health. I go months without finding stuff. I did mess up and not pick up a nice set of small bore gages. Starrett .125 to .500. The guy was busy talking up an attractive woman. So I did not inquire of the price. 


Cutting oil is my blood.


----------



## Larry$

ChazzC said:


> MSC has worse packaging/shipping people than Amazon:


Can't be! but maybe =


WobblyHand said:


> Recommend you replace the screw with a quality stud and nut.


I have the one like Wobblyhand and agree. I made a new nut & longer cross pin with tapered end. Makes it possible to change adjusting length much easier. The side slots make for easier attaching also. The vice gets used clamped in the mill vice, rotary table or adjustable angle plate. Very handy.


----------



## GT-6 Racer

Hi all,
if you haven’t yet caught the industrial auction disease, be warned.  Latest snag, a very nice Alexander cdg d-bit grinder with collets.  Spent a day dissembling, cleaning and lubricating it.  Up and running now.  Made a 1/4” carbide engraving bit From a broken end mill. Fortunately my experience learning to program my Trak mill has provided an ample supply of small carbide blanks ….


----------



## GT-6 Racer

From the previous auction, 0.06” to 0.5 minus gage pins from Meyer.  Here’s 0.251”- 0.500”


----------



## DavieJ75

WobblyHand said:


> I bought 5 PCB's (minimum order) for my ELS that I recently designed.
> 
> What an odd experience that was.  The KiCAD program has a plugin that takes your design and bundles up the data files and sends them to PCBWay for a quote.  After convincing myself that everything was good, (don't know how I would really know for sure,) I pushed the button and the data was transferred a world away.  In less than 10 minutes the files were checked and had a quote.  There was a bit of an odd struggle trying to figure out their forms, but after it was all said and done it cost me $34.13 including shipping.  Should arrive in early October.  Sure hope the boards come out OK.  Haven't ever made my own boards before.
> View attachment 420478



I have designed and had several hundred boards made. By jlcpcb and pcbway and no issues what so ever from the manufactures. Only issues I have had was with my initial design. I have not used kicad, but I have used easyeda and eagle. One hint if your just starting out. I make sure that I enlarge the traces for power on my boards as the default size is fine, but if you have to drive any current its comforting to know that the larger traces can take more current. Keep posting updates your lead screw project, one of my long list of updates I wish to do to my lathe at some time.


----------



## Janderso

wachuko said:


> Just wanted one… only 65.00 new from eBay… Shars Precision Toolmakers Vise 3 x 4" CNC Vise .0002
> 
> View attachment 420442


Those are great for the price.


----------



## Janderso

WobblyHand said:


> I bought 5 PCB's (minimum order) for my ELS that I recently designed.
> 
> What an odd experience that was.  The KiCAD program has a plugin that takes your design and bundles up the data files and sends them to PCBWay for a quote.  After convincing myself that everything was good, (don't know how I would really know for sure,) I pushed the button and the data was transferred a world away.  In less than 10 minutes the files were checked and had a quote.  There was a bit of an odd struggle trying to figure out their forms, but after it was all said and done it cost me $34.13 including shipping.  Should arrive in early October.  Sure hope the boards come out OK.  Haven't ever made my own boards before.
> View attachment 420478


What are you some smart guy?
I wish I had your creativity!


----------



## Janderso

NCjeeper said:


> Scored this new Starrett scriber for 2 bucks at a flea market Saturday.
> View attachment 420655


I want one.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought some 1/4” square shank, brazed carbide cutters. I will use these in a small fly cutter.

Three of these from two different eBay Sellers set me back $31.44 including tax & shipping.


----------



## erikmannie

Here are some screenshots from the 1/4” square shank tool bit purchase mentioned above:

2 of the cutters are C2 carbide, & the other does not specify what grade of carbide.


----------



## WobblyHand

Janderso said:


> What are you some smart guy?
> I wish I had your creativity!


Nope.  I'm just a stubborn guy who is a plugger.  It doesn't come easy for me.  That and asking questions of others, so one can learn.  Some of the stuff you have done and shown on HM is really remarkable.  Believe me, I aspire to be half as talented as you are!  I'm still figuring out how on earth to make a diamond wheel grinder like you did.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Made a trip up to near Austin with the family and dogs to check out some stuff a guy was selling on Craigslist. My friend wanted the steady rest for his new lathe and I wanted the power feed for my mills knee. The power feed, gears/jaws/stuff plus around 25lb of alu were $75 and another 65lb of alu (including two sheets of mic6 plate!) was $100. I'm pretty pleased and my friend was really happy too! Plus we had a delicious burger for lunch


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

Now I've done it, been snagging various incomplete-oversize wrench sets off of the internet. 
Wrenches in the photo range from 1-9/16 to 2-7/8. Trying to get a full set of 1/16 increments.




These are made in Canada by Gray tools


----------



## savarin

I think wrench is what it does to your shoulder when you pick it up


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

savarin said:


> I think wrench is what it does to your shoulder when you pick it up


Hahaha yeaaa, you can definitely feel it when you lift them!


----------



## NCjeeper

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Made a trip up to near Austin with the family and dogs to check out some stuff a guy was selling on Craigslist. My friend wanted the steady rest for his new lathe and I wanted the power feed for my mills knee. The power feed, gears/jaws/stuff plus around 25lb of alu were $75 and another 65lb of alu (including two sheets of mic6 plate!) was $100. I'm pretty pleased and my friend was really happy too! Plus we had a delicious burger for lunch
> View attachment 420779
> View attachment 420780
> View attachment 420781


How much can you fit in a flat rate box for me?


----------



## mattthemuppet2

I hoard aluminum like preppers hoard cans of bake beans.


----------



## mmcmdl

250 lbs . left the garage on Sat ! Made a small amount of room for me me to fill up once again .


----------



## wachuko

Got a few things to use at the house in Ocala...

Crescent Nicholson 8" Number 4 File Card - T21455 - trying to keep the files clean... also need to get some old rags with oil to wrap them and avoid them getting rust...



Scotch-Brite EXL PRO Deburring Wheel - Metal Deburring, Finishing and Polishing Wheel - Unitized - 6" x 1" x 1" - To see if this one has a finer finish than the first one I bought... plus I did not have one here... Also got some reducing bushing adapters to be able to install it in the grinder I have here (1/2" shaft).  This will replace the wire wheel on that grinder.



Nicholson - 40076N Pillar File, Swiss Pattern, Double Cut, Rectangular, #0 Coarseness, 6" Length, Narrow - One of these came with the 9"x20" lathe and I like it a lot...  they were out of #2 coarseness so just got one of these for now... These are the ones that are smooth on the sides...


----------



## snoopdog

12 to 18 in Mic
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 that I do NOT need, and I really Suck! The other anvils are soaking, light rust.


----------



## WobblyHand

snoopdog said:


> 12 to 18 in Mic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 420903
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that I do NOT need, and I really Suck! The other anvils are soaking, light rust.


You are not allowed to be the judge of suckage  So tell us, how much for that? Then you will be able to win the coveted suckage award!


----------



## snoopdog

WobblyHand said:


> You are not allowed to be the judge of suckage  So tell us, how much for that? Then you will be able to win the coveted suckage award!


Well Wobbly, it was almost criminal, and I had reservations about being the suckiest, are you sitting down? 20 bucks!


----------



## WobblyHand

snoopdog said:


> Well Wobbly, it was almost criminal, and I had reservations about being the suckiest, are you sitting down? 20 bucks!


Ok, you earned it.

Wow.


----------



## Eyerelief

snoopdog said:


> Well Wobbly, it was almost criminal, and I had reservations about being the suckiest, are you sitting down? 20 bucks!




I’d say that’s a fair price….

For a dead rat and an apple core. 

Well done!


----------



## NCjeeper

snoopdog said:


> 12 to 18 in Mic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 420903
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that I do NOT need, and I really Suck! The other anvils are soaking, light rust.


You can ship it to me.


----------



## wachuko

Ordered the BS-0 Dividing Head... Vevor... found it in eBay for 206.00 which is the lowest I have seen it in awhile... 




And these popped-up on related items, not sure why, but figured I would get them as well... 5C square collets...


----------



## Eyerelief

wachuko said:


> Ordered the BS-0 Dividing Head... Vevor... found it in eBay


Hey Jamie.  I bought the same a couple years ago.  Before I used it, I tore it all apart, cleaned it, made new brass bushings for it etc.  It tuned up nicely.  It was pretty crunchy / gritty when I got it, now it is smooth as glass.

This guy gives a pretty good tutorial on a tear down, clean up etc.  The three vid's are worth a watch if you entertain the idea.  I also bought an ER32 collet backplate that screws directly on to the dividing head.  I like it muchly.


----------



## wachuko

Eyerelief said:


> Hey Jamie.  I bought the same a couple years ago.  Before I used it, I tore it all apart, cleaned it, made new brass bushings for it etc.  It tuned up nicely.  It was pretty crunchy / gritty when I got it, now it is smooth as glass.
> 
> This guy gives a pretty good tutorial on a tear down, clean up etc.  The three vid's are worth a watch if you entertain the idea.  I also bought an ER32 collet backplate that screws directly on to the dividing head.  I like it muchly.


Cool.  Thank you.  Watching...

@Eyerelief  -  Any chance you have a link to that ER32 collet backplate?


----------



## Eyerelief

wachuko said:


> Cool.  Thank you.  Watching...
> 
> @Eyerelief  -  Any chance you have a link to that ER32 collet backplate?


Here is what I cobbled together. Both off of the bay:








						HFS(R) Collet Chuck for ER-32, 100 mm Diameter  | eBay
					

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for HFS(R) Collet Chuck for ER-32, 100 mm Diameter at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



					www.ebay.com
				











						Shars 4" Fully Machined Threaded Back Plate 1-1/2"-8 For 3 or 4 Jaw Chuck NEW P  | eBay
					

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Shars 4" Fully Machined Threaded Back Plate 1-1/2"-8 For 3 or 4 Jaw Chuck NEW P at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



					www.ebay.com


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> Ordered the BS-0 Dividing Head... Vevor... found it in eBay for 206.00 which is the lowest I have seen it in awhile...
> 
> View attachment 420948
> 
> 
> And these popped-up on related items, not sure why, but figured I would get them as well... 5C square collets...
> 
> View attachment 420950


I had an issue with my el-cheapo BS-0.  But honestly, I think it may have been caused by shipping mistreatment.  However, the BS-0 was inadequately packaged by the supplier to prevent weight shift.  FedEx dropped the package and attempted to conceal the damage.  I did a complete teardown to see if the BS-0 was ok.  I used the video that @Eyerelief has linked.  The BS-0 had a broken bearing casting, which is one the few parts that is NA on the parts list.  I finally got my money back, but it took a lot of perseverance on my part.  It was a good thing that I bought it off eBay, since eventually they forced the vendor to issue a refund.  I did have to ship the unit back, but the vendor paid the return shipping.  My final position was, "it is the responsibility of the seller to package the goods such that they are received in new and undamaged condition".  eBay backed me up, since I basically copied the words from their website.


----------



## wachuko

Eyerelief said:


> Here is what I cobbled together. Both off of the bay:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HFS(R) Collet Chuck for ER-32, 100 mm Diameter  | eBay
> 
> 
> Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for HFS(R) Collet Chuck for ER-32, 100 mm Diameter at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shars 4" Fully Machined Threaded Back Plate 1-1/2"-8 For 3 or 4 Jaw Chuck NEW P  | eBay
> 
> 
> Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Shars 4" Fully Machined Threaded Back Plate 1-1/2"-8 For 3 or 4 Jaw Chuck NEW P at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 420954
> 
> View attachment 420955


Thank you!  ER32 collet holder is out of stock, but found a similar one... ER32 collet holder

EDIT:  Wait!!  So the thread is 1-1/2"x8TPI !!??  I can use the collet holder from the Logan then...right??


----------



## Eyerelief

Seems as if you should be able to


----------



## wachuko

Is it wrong, even if I do not do woodworking, to lust after a workbench like this one??  I love mechanical art... this vise is a thing of beauty...




He made one workbench using a set of electric height adjustable legs and one of his twin turbo vises at one end…






He also made one awesome workbench with two vises, for Adam Savage... with a metal base... amazing!



			https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBtl4Z2Fk7O3gVe1OQ4rQEluKcmb1gxNN
		


I want to buy one of his Twin Turbo Vise and set it aside for whenever I get to making a bench for it... it is a sickness, I know...


----------



## Eyerelief

Now take all that money you just saved and by something else before it gets waisted on groceries or bills or other tragedies and atrocities  against machinist kind everywhere.............


----------



## wachuko

Eyerelief said:


> Now take all that money you just saved and by something else before it gets waisted on groceries or bills or other tragedies and atrocities  against machinist kind everywhere.............


Like a replacement for my dying and cheap MIG welder….


----------



## snoopdog

NCjeeper said:


> You can ship it to me.


Shoot me a PM, I am not going to keep it.


----------



## wachuko

Firstram said:


> Let us know what you thing about the loupe, it's something I desperately need to buy!



@Firstram , After having it for a couple of weeks now... I like it a lot over the first one that I purchased.  The benefit of having the LEDs alone is worth it...  




I had to order a second one for the house... since mine was being taken from the garage to use for looking at splinters to remove them... So far it has been used more for that than anything else 

You do have to be careful when putting it away.  The switch to turn on the LEDs is on the side and gets triggered easily... There are two settings, one for white LEDs and one for UV light so you also need to make sure to push it again to turn off completely.  It comes with an extra set of 3 batteries (LR927), so that is good, I will need them soon...





Since providing feedback on stuff I got... I really like these Reilang oilers.  No mess ever, works no matter in what orientation I have it at... excellent!   Only complaint is the seal that it comes with.  Already failed.  Seems to be degrading from the oil... Easy fix by replacing it with an O-ring.  Sucks that I purchased a couple of original seals... not even going to bother with those.  Will replace the seals on the two new ones, that I just got, with O-rings as well...


----------



## Mill Lee farm

I must confess I also bought one of those loupes after you posted the link. I too like it! 
I agree the LED lighting is awesome and the internal inch/metric scales around the square in the base are kind of nice for judging size.

I just got new progressive lens glasses as my near vision is deteriorating...
I can hold this about 8"-12" from my face and focus on a target with decent clarity and enlargement. (I was having trouble doing this with my old glasses and thought maybe it wasn't good for this type use) This is what I was originally looking for and I'm pretty pleased with it. I originaly got the idea of setting it up on your machine for a better view form Stefan Gotteswinter of course!

@wachuko can you confirm that you can do the same with yours?

Yes... the light turns on in the case. Make sure you don't drain batteries!


----------



## WobblyHand

Mill Lee farm said:


> I must confess I also bought one of those loupes after you posted the link. I too like it!
> I agree the LED lighting is awesome and the internal inch/metric scales around the square in the base are kind of nice for judging size.
> 
> I just got new progressive lens glasses as my near vision is deteriorating...
> I can hold this about 8"-12" from my face and focus on a target with decent clarity and enlargement. (I was having trouble doing this with my old glasses and thought maybe it wasn't good for this type use) This is what I was originally looking for and I'm pretty pleased with it. I originaly got the idea of setting it up on your machine for a better view form Stefan Gotteswinter of course!
> 
> @wachuko can you confirm that you can do the same with yours?
> 
> Yes... the light turns on in the case. Make sure you don't drain batteries!


I got one of those magnifiers as well.  I haven't removed the plastic strip to enable the LEDs.  I just use the magnifier with a strong external light.  Those batteries are tiny - they can't possibly very long.  I do like the magnifier, and the scale is useful.  So far, I haven't buggered up the optics, so far they are nice and clear.


----------



## wachuko

Mill Lee farm said:


> I must confess I also bought one of those loupes after you posted the link. I too like it!
> I agree the LED lighting is awesome and the internal inch/metric scales around the square in the base are kind of nice for judging size.
> 
> I just got new progressive lens glasses as my near vision is deteriorating...
> I can hold this about 8"-12" from my face and focus on a target with decent clarity and enlargement. (I was having trouble doing this with my old glasses and thought maybe it wasn't good for this type use) This is what I was originally looking for and I'm pretty pleased with it. I originaly got the idea of setting it up on your machine for a better view form Stefan Gotteswinter of course!
> 
> @wachuko can you confirm that you can do the same with yours?
> 
> Yes... the light turns on in the case. Make sure you don't drain batteries!


  the mind is a powerful thing, talk about scotomas!  I never noticed the numbers on the sides until you called them out!!! I had to get it and look inside again, hahahahhahaha...

And yes, it is working for me as you described.  I place it on the object and I can see it from 8" or so...  or I can get close to it (like for pulling out splinters).  Either way it works great.  Very happy with it... 

The batteries are same as what some watches use.  I will replace with better quality batteries when I am done with the extra set that came with it...   

Being at home for the past few years got me to pick up all kinds of hobbies...  Now I take care of all the watches at home... so I have a stash of all kinds of watch batteries and tools to change them myself... I have, like two packs of these batteries, lol... here is the link:  LiCB 20 Pack SR927SW Watch Batteries


----------



## G-ManBart

It was actually two days ago, but the pickup was today.  Managed to get an 8" E.D.A. No 61R level for $66 from a local auction.  I bid on a bunch of other stuff, but only got the level.  It was so close I didn't worry about only getting one thing.  I've wanted something a bit more accurate than my Starrett 98-12 and this should fit the bill.  The outside of the box is a big grungy, but the level itself seems really clean and the base is in good shape.  I guess I have to level the table it was on!


----------



## erikmannie

I used AuctionSniper for the first time in 15 years to buy seven (7) 7/8” new, quality, solid carbide, 4 flute, square end mills.

The landed cost (includes tax + shipping) was only $35.94 each!


----------



## FOMOGO

I bought one a few years ago, and was amazed at how little run out the 5" 3-jaw chuck had. It was under .001 and I've been using it ever since on my 12' Atlas lathe. Will use the unit itself for the first time, in the next few weeks, as I have a gear to cut. Waiting on an arbor to arrive, just received the cutters yesterday. 



wachuko said:


> Dividing Head... Vevor... found it in eBay for 206.00 which is the lowest I have seen it in awhile...


----------



## WobblyHand

Finally these were delivered from far, far away.


A 22mm R8 gear arbor and an R8 FMB22 arbor to go with my face mill that I got earlier.  You can see I have some gear cutters, well you can see one of them on the arbor.  Now I can try my hand at cutting a gear.  With the FMB22 arbor, I can use my face mill!  Lots of fun to be had.  I am pretty sure they are both 7/16-20 threads, but only the FMB is marked that way.  I will have to go check both of them.

Also got some Bud Boxes for my ELS project, a 5x7 and a 10x12, the small one for my controller and display and the larger one for the stepper driver and stepper motor power supply.


Also some small M8-5 connector pairs, (panel plus mating cable type), an IEC power inlet with fuse and switch, and a power cord arrived today, for the ELS as well.  There was some small electrical stuff that I didn't bother showing, like little polyurethane board feet, and some tiny terminal blocks.


And last but not least, a 12" piece of ground 303 stainless rod showed up.  1-1/2" diameter.  Found this in the _For Sale_ section on HM.  Bought it just to have on hand.


Post Office tried to do a number on the rod package, but the contents arrive unscathed thanks to the good packaging.  

All in all, a pretty good haul for the day.


----------



## WobblyHand

Phew!  Both arbors are 7/16-20!  Thank goodness.  Can't wait to try this out.


----------



## Gaffer

I visited my buddy this morning and he made a very good deal on a handful of goodies. His dad owned a machine shop in the 50s & 60s, and these are some of the things he held onto and finally decided to sell. He has other cool things he's not ready to part with. The tap wrench was his dad's design and something he sold in quantity. It is well made and spring-loaded. It has 4 sizes from 3/32 (by eyeball), 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4". It was too cool to pass up. The larger threaded (3/8-16) fixture plate is stamped F.O. Bacon 1939.











	

		
			
		

		
	
d
The indexer only has one plate, no name brand, and no collet closer for the 5C collets. Next to the indexer are the jacks with several different tops. There are three of them.
Starrett No 568 V-Blocks


----------



## G-ManBart

Added a NOGA indicator stand and Mitutoyo dial test indicator (angled face).  Wow...now I understand why people rave about the NOGA system!  The Mitu seems really smooth and I'm sure it will be good enough for me for a long time.


----------



## Ben17484

Gaffer said:


> I visited my buddy this morning and he made a very good deal on a handful of goodies. His dad owned a machine shop in the 50s & 60s, and these are some of the things he held onto and finally decided to sell. He has other cool things he's not ready to part with. The tap wrench was his dad's design and something he sold in quantity. It is well made and spring-loaded. It has 4 sizes from 3/32 (by eyeball), 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4". It was too cool to pass up. The larger threaded (3/8-16) fixture plate is stamped F.O. Bacon 1939.
> View attachment 421260
> View attachment 421261
> View attachment 421262
> View attachment 421263
> View attachment 421264
> 
> View attachment 421268
> View attachment 421269
> View attachment 421270
> View attachment 421271
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> d
> The indexer only has one plate, no name brand, and no collet closer for the 5C collets. Next to the indexer are the jacks with several different tops. There are three of them.
> Starrett No 568 V-Blocks
> View attachment 421272



I got some IBeams when I bought my Mill. What are they used for?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wachuko

Ben17484 said:


> I got some IBeams when I bought my Mill. What are they used for?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Those are machining parallels…


----------



## Ben17484

wachuko said:


> Those are machining parallels…



I’d kind of guessed they were parralells of a sort, but hadn’t seen them like that before. My set of parallels (and all others I’ve seen) aren’t an ‘I’ shape and don’t have holes drilled down the length. Are these built to take larger weight, hence the ‘I’ shape? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ben17484

Ben17484 said:


> I’d kind of guessed they were parralells of a sort, but hadn’t seen them like that before. My set of parallels (and all others I’ve seen) aren’t an ‘I’ shape and don’t have holes drilled down the length. Are these built to take larger weight, hence the ‘I’ shape?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



(I should say I’ve only had time to skin through that video so far, so the answers to my questions may be in there)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wachuko

Someone here with more knowledge can answer… how to or what they are used for is not covered in the video… or why the shape…


----------



## extropic

Ben17484 said:


> I’d kind of guessed they were parralells of a sort, but hadn’t seen them like that before. My set of parallels (and all others I’ve seen) aren’t an ‘I’ shape and don’t have holes drilled down the length. Are these built to take larger weight, hence the ‘I’ shape?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The only I-beam shaped parallels I'm aware of are 'shop made'. You can see they are a relatively simple project for beginners. The I-beam shape and multiple holes allows for use of multiple metalworking machines and processes including heat treating and grinding. The holes allow for more utility when clamping the parallel is desired. The configuration also reduces the weight of the finished parallels which becomes important by the time one has a box full of tools.

When I read your original question, parallels didn't come to mind. If you had included some dimensions or a picture (including some common object for scale reference) your question would have been more clear.


----------



## Gaffer

Ben17484 said:


> I got some IBeams when I bought my Mill. What are they used for?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I’m glad others responded because I hadn’t seen them before. I assumed they were for setup. I’ll watch the videos. Thanks


----------



## great white

Tile saw:




Home depot purchase. My tile saw died mid job installing a marble backsplash in the kitchen. Seems like a good unit but I've only made a few cuts so far. Seems like a good compromise between going all out on a commercial grade saw and an overly cheap retail version. Just gotta remember to work within it's limitations and make sure you pay attention to the setup adjustments.


----------



## Ben17484

extropic said:


> The only I-beam shaped parallels I'm aware of are 'shop made'. You can see they are a relatively simple project for beginners. The I-beam shape and multiple holes allows for use of multiple metalworking machines and processes including heat treating and grinding. The holes allow for more utility when clamping the parallel is desired. The configuration also reduces the weight of the finished parallels which becomes important by the time one has a box full of tools.
> 
> When I read your original question, parallels didn't come to mind. If you had included some dimensions or a picture (including some common object for scale reference) your question would have been more clear.
> 
> View attachment 421328



Than extropic. My question was a response to a post further up (which I quoted) which had a picture called ‘Ibeams’. I’d not heard them being called I beams before I read that post. Mine are almost exactly the same as the ones in that post. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ben17484

Ben17484 said:


> Than extropic. My question was a response to a post further up (which I quoted) which had a picture called ‘Ibeams’. I’d not heard them being called I beams before I read that post. Mine are almost exactly the same as the ones in that post.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk









A picture of mine for reference. The video stated that these were parallels made as part of an engineering course in UK. I’m from the UK and these came from a retired engineer, so that story checks out. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## pontiac428

I bought a bucket of oil for the new lathe.  Sight glasses in the head, gear, and carriage all look clear and clean, but there is a color when the light hits the oil that seems to suggest the presence of detergents.  I don't know what kind of oil it is, and it's worth $150 to not worry about it and start my lube schedule from scratch.


----------



## twhite

Swapmeet find today. $2 each. The indicator works great. It is only .002 resolution but will work great for plenty of jobs. The small bore gages are of unknown manufacturer. Really does not mater as it is a static tool. 






Cutting oil is my blood.


----------



## WobblyHand

twhite said:


> Swapmeet find today. $2 each. The indicator works great. It is only .002 resolution but will work great for plenty of jobs. The small bore gages are of unknown manufacturer. Really does not mater as it is a static tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting oil is my blood.


That DTI is marked 0.002mm per division if I am reading the picture correctly!  That's 78.7 micro inches per division!  0.0787 thousandths of an inch.  That's a lot better than 0.002"!


----------



## twhite

WobblyHand said:


> That DTI is marked 0.002mm per division if I am reading the picture correctly! That's 78.7 micro inches per division! 0.0787 thousandths of an inch. That's a lot better than 0.002"!



Right you are. I am so used to inch. I forget about Metric. 


Cutting oil is my blood.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

wowsers, $2 for a 0.002mm Bestest is incredible! The only downside is that they're so sensitive that they're pretty hard to use. I have one of a different make (can't remember right now) and rarely if ever use it. It would be a good candidate for surface plate work.


----------



## wachuko

Got tired of the old way of soldering… got something better that the small holder that I had…. And got a pencil soldering gun/pencil to give that a try… just to clarify, I am perfectly happy with my soldering station... what I was tired of was the way to hold boards for soldering, this one gives me more flexibility... the pencil soldering gun was just me wanting to try new tools... 




This is the soldering station that I have now... works just fine...




This also came in…





This smell like typical grease from many tools from China… I just took a bath, no way in heck I am going to start cleaning this up right now…



And this also arrived…


----------



## rwm

I have the same soldering pencil. Works fine but the plug at the back does not stay in. I ended up opening the case and permanently soldering the wires in.


----------



## WobblyHand

I use a Hakko soldering iron.  Can get lots of different tips, thermostatically controlled.  Iron isn't too large to handle, even under a stereo microscope.  I have an older model, the FX-888D (ESD Safe).  Has been very useful.  Highly recommended.


----------



## wachuko

rwm said:


> I have the same soldering pencil. Works fine but the plug at the back does not stay in. I ended up opening the case and permanently soldering the wires in.


Begs the question… what did you use to solder it


----------



## twhite

rwm said:


> I have the same soldering pencil. Works fine but the plug at the back does not stay in. I ended up opening the case and permanently soldering the wires in.



Did you use that same soldering iron to fix itself


Cutting oil is my blood.


----------



## Mill Lee farm

Falling further down my dial indicator surgery hole, I picked up a few items off Amazon:

some tiny Moody wrenches
Moody Tools - 58-0143 MT-04-01 Open-End Wrench Set

Dial levers
2pcs Watch Hands Removers Lever Type Puller Tool Professional Watch Tools Watch Hand Remover Tool








Also some jewelers screwdrivers

8PCS Professional Screwdriver Set, VAKOGAL Micro Precision Screwdriver Kit 0.6-1.6mm, 8 Extra Replace Blades for Watch Repair, Eyeglasses Repair, Jewelry Work, Electronics Repair





Fuzzy photo taken through the loupe a couple of us bought recently! You can see the light is nice.
(i blew some dust off with my breath and am too impatient to let the fog clear >sigh<)


----------



## wachuko

Mill Lee farm said:


> Falling further down my dial indicator surgery hole, I picked up a few items off Amazon:
> 
> some tiny Moody wrenches
> Moody Tools - 58-0143 MT-04-01 Open-End Wrench Set https://a.co/d/49kHx2L
> 
> Dial levers
> 2pcs Watch Hands Removers Lever Type Puller Tool Professional Watch Tools Watch Hand Remover Tool https://a.co/d/bnBWntc
> 
> View attachment 421418
> 
> 
> View attachment 421419
> View attachment 421420
> 
> 
> Also some jewelers screwdrivers
> 8PCS Professional Screwdriver Set, VAKOGAL Micro Precision Screwdriver Kit 0.6-1.6mm, 8 Extra Replace Blades for Watch Repair, Eyeglasses Repair, Jewelry Work, Electronics Repair https://a.co/d/ehxSqK9
> 
> View attachment 421421
> View attachment 421422
> 
> 
> Fuzzy photo taken through the loupe a couple of us bought recently! You can see the light is nice.
> (i blew some dust off with my breath and am too impatient to let the fog clear >sigh<)
> 
> View attachment 421423


What is your take/feedback on that screwdriver set?  And can you validate the link…not working for me.

I have been looking for a decent set that does not break the bank… The first ones I got are pure carp…


----------



## Mill Lee farm

Well, I haven't used them yet but they look decent. 

Reviewers complained that they aren’t marked. You have to measure if you need to know which size your using. Also apparently rougher ground than really good screwdrivers, but like you said. They break the bank. 

I’m hoping these will be decent for hobby use. I was using one of the harbor freight mini sets and they worked ok but they were way bulky for indicator/watch work. I like that there’s a spare set of blades if I do damage one. 

Hopefully the links are fixed. They should work now


----------



## wachuko

Mill Lee farm said:


> Well, I haven't used them yet but they look decent.
> 
> Reviewers complained that they aren’t marked. You have to measure if you need to know which size your using. Also apparently rougher ground than really good screwdrivers, but like you said. They break the bank.
> 
> I’m hoping these will be decent for hobby use. I was using one of the harbor freight mini sets and they worked ok but they were way bulky for indicator/watch work. I like that there’s a spare set of blades if I do damage one.
> 
> Hopefully the links are fixed. They should work now


Link working now.  Thank you!!  I went ahead and ordered a set.


----------



## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> I use a Hakko soldering iron.  Can get lots of different tips, thermostatically controlled.  Iron isn't too large to handle, even under a stereo microscope.  I have an older model, the FX-888D (ESD Safe).  Has been very useful.  Highly recommended.





rwm said:


> I have the same soldering pencil. Works fine but the plug at the back does not stay in. I ended up opening the case and permanently soldering the wires in.



I updated the original post... this is the soldering station that I have:




It continues to serve me well... it was the holding setup that I wanted to improve... the new one has magnetic arms that I can move around to better setup the board.  And the magnifying glass has LED lights in different colors to better suit the work.  More flexibility than what I have now for holding the work.

The pencil... well, I just wanted to give that a try.


----------



## pontiac428

Dang, @Mill Lee farm, that's some finework you're fixing to do.  My hands tremble enough to make using those little tools a frustrating experience.  Hats off to you!


----------



## wachuko

I want a better MIG welder than the piece of carp that I have now…but since I do not use it that often, I don’t want to spend a fortune on one…

I had, for over a year, a Hobart with shielding gas, from a friend... that was a delight to use.  But my friend needed it back so that one is gone... It might come back when he is done using it, but who knows... 

Trying to decide between the YesWelder MIG-250 Pro




and the YWM-211P




Either one would work for welding aluminum without a spool gun, but everyone I know recommended a spool gun anyway.  Since either one uses this spool gun, went ahead and ordered that while I decide…

The Eastwood TIG welder I have does not weld aluminum so it would be nice to be able to do so…




And I kicked this one to the curb...


----------



## atunguyd

Mill Lee farm said:


> Falling further down my dial indicator surgery hole, I picked up a few items off Amazon:
> 
> some tiny Moody wrenches
> Moody Tools - 58-0143 MT-04-01 Open-End Wrench Set
> 
> Dial levers
> 2pcs Watch Hands Removers Lever Type Puller Tool Professional Watch Tools Watch Hand Remover Tool
> 
> View attachment 421418
> 
> 
> View attachment 421419
> View attachment 421420
> 
> 
> Also some jewelers screwdrivers
> 
> 8PCS Professional Screwdriver Set, VAKOGAL Micro Precision Screwdriver Kit 0.6-1.6mm, 8 Extra Replace Blades for Watch Repair, Eyeglasses Repair, Jewelry Work, Electronics Repair
> 
> View attachment 421421
> View attachment 421422
> 
> 
> Fuzzy photo taken through the loupe a couple of us bought recently! You can see the light is nice.
> (i blew some dust off with my breath and am too impatient to let the fog clear >sigh
> View attachment 421423



Some advise when using those hands removers. Work inside a clear plastic packet. Don't ask me how I know that a stubborn hand will suddenly pop loose, fly across the workshop and land somewhere that you will only think to look on (or in) after hours of searching. 

Sent from my SM-S908E using Tapatalk


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> I want a better MIG welder than the piece of carp that I have now…but since I do not use it that often, I don’t want to spend a fortune on one…
> 
> I had, for over a year, a Hobart with shielding gas, from a friend... that was a delight to use.  But my friend needed it back so that one is gone... It might come back when he is done using it, but who knows...
> 
> Trying to decide between the YesWelder MIG-250 Pro
> 
> View attachment 421455
> 
> 
> and the YWM-211P
> 
> View attachment 421456
> 
> 
> Either one would work for welding aluminum without a spool gun, but everyone I know recommended a spool gun anyway.  Since either one uses this spool gun, went ahead and ordered that while I decide…
> 
> The TIG welder I have does not weld aluminum so it would be nice to be able to do so…
> 
> View attachment 421454
> 
> 
> And I kicked this one to the curb...
> 
> View attachment 421457


For aluminum you need lots of amps.  Get as much current as you can afford.  If the units are about the same capacity get the highest current version.  I have a 200A TIG and 180A MIG, have often needed a bit more Amps.


----------



## projectnut

The price of raw material has certainly risen over the last few weeks.  Last month I purchased a little over 100 lbs. of various size and dimension 6061 aluminum.  The cost was $2.00 per pound regardless of shape or length.  Last weekend I went to the same dealer and the price has risen 50%.  42 lbs. of 6061 was $120.00. Here's what $120.00 of 6061T aluminum looks like

To top it off the price of gasoline rose $.40 in one day it went from $3.49 a gallon to $3.89 a gallon.  Apparently due to a refinery fire in Ohio.


----------



## Mill Lee farm

atunguyd said:


> Some advise when using those hands removers. Work inside a clear plastic packet. Don't ask me how I know that a stubborn hand will suddenly pop loose, fly across the workshop and land somewhere that you will only think to look on (or in) after hours of searching.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908E using Tapatalk


Oh my.... that does sound like the kind of thing that would happen to me.... Good advice!
I'm also wondering f the little "face protectors" might be a good idea as well. For the little use I need I could probably make something out of cardstock though...
Bergeon Dial Protecting Plastic Sheets Set of 3 Swiss Made No. 6938


----------



## wachuko

Mill Lee farm said:


> Oh my.... that does sound like the kind of thing that would happen to me.... Good advice!
> I'm also wondering f the little "face protectors" might be a good idea as well. For the little use I need I could probably make something out of cardstock though...
> Bergeon Dial Protecting Plastic Sheets Set of 3 Swiss Made No. 6938
> 
> View attachment 421476


Sweet!  I did not even knew those existed!  I was using the plastic ziploc bag approach...


----------



## twhite

projectnut said:


> The price of raw material has certainly risen over the last few weeks. Last month I purchased a little over 100 lbs. of various size and dimension 6061 aluminum. The cost was $2.00 per pound regardless of shape or length. Last weekend I went to the same dealer and the price has risen 50%. 42 lbs. of 6061 was $120.00. Here's what $120.00 of 6061T aluminum looks like
> 
> To top it off the price of gasoline rose $.40 in one day it went from $3.49 a gallon to $3.89 a gallon. Apparently due to a refinery fire in Ohio.



You are $2.00 a gallon cheaper than here on SOCAL. With prices going up anywhere from .05 to .10 every other day. Count your blessings. Lots of places by the freeway are $6.49 a gallon. For regular. 


Cutting oil is my blood.


----------



## DAM 79

So this was delivered today and is going to make changing Chucks out on the Monarch much easier on my back !! I can’t wait to try it out


----------



## pontiac428

How much more does a chuck weigh than the jib crane?  Do you need a gantry with a chainfall to install the hoist to install the chuck?


----------



## Mill Lee farm

Mitutoyo pin vises took up residence for the weekend….
Mitutoyo 985-143 4 PCS Pin Vise Set
Amazon crushed the box. Big deal? Guess not… but I like boxes… but… Amazon 

However… whats going on with the strange black staining?!?




Something to do with the velcro piece…
Again disappointing for brand new…





And then I open them… not horrible, but despite the light coat of oil…. Yup thats rust…





I was resigning myself to be disappointed, clean, re-oil… and move on.

Then I started looking at the two smallest and they’re way off center. Cut all wonky!






I chucked a micro drill bit in and gave it a test… definitely off center and annoying…

They’re back on the UPS truck

I’ll try a replacement set but I’m not too hopeful.

The box looks genuine. I bought them from the ‘Miyuyoyo Store’ on amazon… 
I know there are a ton of clones out there. I expected better from Mitutoyo though?


----------



## pontiac428

Mill Lee farm said:


> The box looks genuine. I bought them from the ‘Miyuyoyo Store’ on amazon…
> I know there are a ton of clones out there. I expected better from Mitutoyo though?



The Amazon listing says made in India.  I don't know if Mitutoyo is running a plant in India or not, but they really ought to put those in a different color box so we know not to buy them.  China machining production is pretty bad, but India's is straight out of the third world.  There's a half dozen guys with bare feet and failed vision working around the whirring, overspeeding pseudo-Swiss machine that made those... metal pieces.  It is one thing if the India factory (or port receiver) is putting those in counterfeit boxes to boost sales.  It's completely another, more horrifying thing if Mitutoyo is sanctioning their production without identifying them as India product lines.

Edit:  I just snooped around to see what ISO accreditations/certifications are held by Mitutoyo.  Not only are they ISO 9001 throughout, they also hold ISO/IEC 17025 for metrology, which is a big deal.  I have my doubts that those pin vises are genuine.


----------



## G-ManBart

I wasn't thrilled with the 3-jaw chuck on my Sheldon, and after reading a bunch of reviews and videos decided I would take a shot with an inexpensive San Ou (often written as one word).  CME isn't far from me, so I was able to drive there and pick the chuck up in person....$166 out the door.  This was my first time fitting a backing plate/chuck to a lathe so I am pretty happy the TIR is only .002"...sort of shocked me really.  I didn't try switching to different mounting holes, or anything else, just chucked a couple of different size pieces of ground pin stock in the chuck and put an indicator on them.  Now this has me thinking about their rotary table and dividing heads for the mill!


----------



## wachuko

Got a inexpensive 1-2" micrometer...




And this looked cool... not sure when I will use it, but went ahead and got it just in case...


----------



## Suzuki4evr

J


Mill Lee farm said:


> Mitutoyo pin vises took up residence for the weekend….
> Mitutoyo 985-143 4 PCS Pin Vise Set
> Amazon crushed the box. Big deal? Guess not… but I like boxes… but… Amazon
> 
> However… whats going on with the strange black staining?!?
> 
> View attachment 421510
> 
> 
> Something to do with the velcro piece…
> Again disappointing for brand new…
> 
> View attachment 421511
> View attachment 421512
> 
> 
> And then I open them… not horrible, but despite the light coat of oil…. Yup thats rust…
> 
> 
> View attachment 421513
> 
> 
> I was resigning myself to be disappointed, clean, re-oil… and move on.
> 
> Then I started looking at the two smallest and they’re way off center. Cut all wonky!
> 
> 
> View attachment 421514
> View attachment 421515
> 
> 
> I chucked a micro drill bit in and gave it a test… definitely off center and annoying…
> 
> They’re back on the UPS truck
> 
> I’ll try a replacement set but I’m not too hopeful.
> 
> The box looks genuine. I bought them from the ‘Miyuyoyo Store’ on amazon…
> I know there are a ton of clones out there. I expected better from Mitutoyo though?


Just goes to show that a "brand" name isn't always the best.


----------



## Larry42

snoopdog said:


> it was almost criminal,


Don't you feel bad about doing that? 
To repent you can just send it to me. Can't say that I've ever needed one that large but great bragging rights.


----------



## Larry42

My BS-1 indexing head came today. I had ordered it from PM back in March. It looks clean. The chuck is really stiff. So is the spring on the indexing pin.  Some learning to do. It is heavier than I had expected @ 66#s with the 6" chuck. I didn't have time to take it apart yet, but plan to. I've got an oiler off the shop's Molder to get working. Parts are in the ultrasonic cleaner right now.


----------



## aliva

$37.82 Cad delivered from AliExpress


----------



## Aukai

I wonder why China would stock that brand? I was always afraid of counterfeit, but if it works your good.


----------



## Gaffer

I visited the shop that built my dump trailer today. He gives me scraps, but I donated $40 for pizza and beer. The stock is all about 1/8” wall, in 2X2, 2X3, and 5X5. About 20-25’ in total. I’m making a rolling chassis cart for the ‘Cuda I’m restoring. It’s currently on a rotisserie and taking up too much room, lengthwise. The underside is down to bare metal.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought an Aloris CXA-41 directly from Aloris. A CXA-41 holds a 1” boring bar.






						Boring Bar Holder CXA-104
					






					www.aloris.com
				







Aloris had 20% off; this covered the handling fee & UPS Ground shipping. The entire order came to $138.47. Even though I live in CA, Aloris didn’t charge me sales tax.


----------



## DAM 79

pontiac428 said:


> How much more does a chuck weigh than the jib crane?  Do you need a gantry with a chainfall to install the hoist to install the chuck?


The Job crane really isn’t that heavy however most of my 3-jaw. Chucks weigh almost 100lbs I’m thinking and the 12”  6-jaw weighs more then them and I also have a 18”  4-jaw chuck I think it weighs around 300lbs. Because I can roll it but can’t pick it up


----------



## Mill Lee farm

Replacement Mitutoyo pin vises showed along with my used Mitutoyo indicator from Ideal Precision…..

This picture kind of sums it up doesn’t it?
Amazon bagged, crushed, new Mitutoyo
vs. used, inspected, awesomely packed Mitutoyo….






>edit<
Except… packing peanuts!!!! Arrgh! 
“It H8’s the peanut-zez!!!” 



Luckily! Amazon gave me a bag!!! 






WOW!!!! There’s MUCH cooler packing material rubber banded to the bottom of the white box!!!




Pretty good so far!


----------



## WobblyHand

Mill Lee farm said:


> Replacement Mitutoyo pin vises showed along with my used Mitutoyo indicator from Ideal Precision…..
> 
> This picture kind of sums it up doesn’t it?
> Amazon bagged, crushed, new Mitutoyo
> vs. used, inspected, awesomely packed Mitutoyo….
> 
> View attachment 421769
> View attachment 421771


How's the box inside the orange one?  If I recall it's a blow mold box inside.  Might not be as bad as it looks.
But, yeah, there's a difference between packing, isn't there.  People who care, vs. those who don't really care if your stuff arrives crushed.

I've bought from Ideal Precision and am happy with what I got, AND the way it was packaged.


----------



## pontiac428

You're teasing us!  What's inside?  What does that batch of pin vises look like compared to the child labor version they sent you in the beginning?


----------



## wachuko

Mill Lee farm said:


> Replacement Mitutoyo pin vises showed along with my used Mitutoyo indicator from Ideal Precision…..
> 
> This picture kind of sums it up doesn’t it?
> Amazon bagged, crushed, new Mitutoyo
> vs. used, inspected, awesomely packed Mitutoyo….
> 
> View attachment 421769
> View attachment 421771


Interesting… I would have expected the one from Amazon delivered in a box 10 times its size…


----------



## Mill Lee farm

Better
No strange black staining




95% less rust

Better machining, but still not perfect. 
The smallest is a lot better but still not dead center. 4 teeth clamp unevenly as well. Much better than the last, but still disappointing 

The 2nd from smallest is obviously cut off center again…. *sigh*

Maybe 3rd times the charm???


----------



## Mill Lee farm

Oh my……. 


View attachment trim.4C18C699-B27B-41CB-96BE-2DBAFA14DA6A.MOV


The smallest is just as bad…..


View attachment trim.6DF325D8-3262-4EFC-A548-B38594B3E85D.MOV



I checked all 4 with thread gauge pins… they all have visible runout…. No good *cry*

Again… box looks legit? Just a bad product?
SMH


----------



## Mill Lee farm

However!!! 
This guy looks very nice! Some dents and scratches but nothing that bothers me!
$78.44 after tax and free shipping. I feel thats fair


----------



## pontiac428

What the hell, Mitu?  Is Starrett the only company who can make a decent pin vise?

And why is Mitutoyo manufacturing precision tools in India?  What drove them there, when there are sectors of high-tech Asian manufacturing available to them in their home time zone.  I've never once seen a piece of fine metal come out of India.  Most of the stuff I've seen looks like it was made by a crew who was taking a break from their primary job of creating cave paintings.


----------



## K30

Not tools yet, but I cleaned up the scrap pile at the local alloy place. Also, they keep some monster stuff in there, like 16" 4140 bar, yikes.
Left to right: 5" 1144 chunks, 1/2" 360 brass, 2" 1144, couple of sizes of 303, a chonk of c110 copper they didn't know they had, a a 9" hunk of 6061


----------



## Mill Lee farm

Awesome!
You want to start a side business supplying the rest of the forum?!? Ha!


----------



## WobblyHand

Not quite tools, but for a tool and included a little tool.  Got some connectors for my ELS project.  So the connectors are for the ELS for my lathe.  Got some GX style connectors, and an interesting M8-4 pin connector.  The cable end of the M8 connector has tiny set screws to hold the wires in.  Each cable end connector came with a tiny 0.89 mm hex wrench.


I removed the hood/cover from the cable end, so you can see these screws.



Looks like it will clamp onto 20 awg wire, easily, which is fine for what I need.  Who knows what kind of wire retention force that tiny M2 set screw has.


----------



## 682bear

I found an old vise in an antique mall today. I made an offer, which was accepted, and brought it home.

It's a Cole Tool #11...










It seems to be in decent condition... and doesn't look like it has been badly abused.

-Bear


----------



## wachuko

682bear said:


> I found an old vise in an antique mall today. I made an offer, which was accepted, and brought it home.
> 
> It's a Cole Tool #11...
> 
> View attachment 421910
> 
> 
> View attachment 421911
> 
> 
> View attachment 421912
> 
> 
> It seems to be in decent condition... and doesn't look like it has been badly abused.
> 
> -Bear


Okay… how is this beauty held/fixed to the bench???


----------



## erikmannie

I sent $390 to @mattthemuppet2 

He shipped me a bunch of carbide endmills, some carbide chamfer mills, & some carbide inserts.

Here are some preview pictures. I will post a picture of the haul when it gets here in a few days.


----------



## 682bear

wachuko said:


> Okay… how is this beauty held/fixed to the bench???



The piece on the left...




...is an 'anvil'. It mounts to the bench with the slot in the bottom. The vise swivels in the anvil... there is a locking handle on the opposite side to lock the swivel.

-Bear


----------



## Grader Johnny

Bought a 8inch 1HP bench grinder


----------



## 7milesup

Suzuki4evr said:


> J
> 
> Just goes to show that a "brand" name isn't always the best.


Those are definitely counterfeit.  I never buy Mitutoyo from Amazon.  Never.  
If you want Mitutoyo you need to buy from a reputable USA seller.  Amazon is not a reputable seller.  









						Shop
					

Ideal Precision sells all major brands of precision measuring tools including Mitutoyo, Starrett, MahrFederal, and Brown & Sharpe.




					shop.idealprec.com


----------



## Gnpenning

682bear said:


> The piece on the left...
> 
> View attachment 421926
> 
> 
> ...is an 'anvil'. It mounts to the bench with the slot in the bottom. The vise swivels in the anvil... there is a locking handle on the opposite side to lock the swivel.
> 
> -Bear


To expand on this a little, on the bottom of the jaws is a hole that can hold a pipe/ bar to the floor for added support if needed.  Just using the slot in heavy application can be problematic. 

They are a cool vise and work great with a little common sense.  Hopefully some day when I get back to a larger shop I can get mine set back up.


----------



## Mill Lee farm

wachuko said:


> Okay… how is this beauty held/fixed to the bench???


And is it hinged (connected) at the bottom of the jaws? Maybe a blacksmith vise?


----------



## Mill Lee farm

7milesup said:


> Those are definitely counterfeit.  I never buy Mitutoyo from Amazon.  Never.
> If you want Mitutoyo you need to buy from a reputable USA seller.  Amazon is not a reputable seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shop
> 
> 
> Ideal Precision sells all major brands of precision measuring tools including Mitutoyo, Starrett, MahrFederal, and Brown & Sharpe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.idealprec.com


I do think I may close the loop on this and call Ideal this week. Not sure if they carry the pin vises but worth getting their take on it.


----------



## 682bear

Mill Lee farm said:


> And is it hinged (connected) at the bottom of the jaws? Maybe a blacksmith vise?



Yes... the jaws are hinged at the bottom...

-Bear


----------



## Aukai

1 set sometimes is not enough, 60 bucks.


----------



## erikmannie

I got to spend somebody else’s money for this one. The customer is supplying the money for the cutting tools and material in advance.

All solid carbide: two #3 center drills, one #5 center drill, three 5/16” drills & two 3/8” drills.

All on one order from Suncoast Tools: $195.06 including tax & shipping (but they didn’t charge me tax). I get to keep the worn tools after the job!

These are for drilling over 200 (!) holes in .125” wall 304 stainless steel angle. The angle is 1-1/2” X 1-1/2”. These are support brackets for a hardwood fence. The tolerance for this job is 1/32”.

I have almost no experience machining stainless, but I saw this:









						Drilling stainless steel : 5 easy steps
					

Drilling stainless steel can be particularly difficult, however follow these simple steps to make it an easy job.




					ttp-hard-drills.com


----------



## GunsOfNavarone

I was so impressed with the 0-1" Mitutoyo micrometer I won from Practical Machinist that I decided to purchase a 1-2" version. I came across an ad for their QUANTUMIKE and man! SO much faster to use. Check them out if you are in the market.


----------



## wachuko

GunsOfNavarone said:


> I was so impressed with the 0-1" Mitutoyo micrometer I won from Practical Machinist that I decided to purchase a 1-2" version. I came across an ad for their QUANTUMIKE and man! SO much faster to use. Check them out if you are in the market.



As much as I like the 0-1 Mitutoyo that I recently bought, I could not bring myself to spend on the same brand for the 1-2 and now the 2-3.  I went with a much less expensive alternative... Those Quantumike are amazing... but man! US$525.00 for both units... I just could not do it.  That is money better spent on the MIG welder that I am ordering next month...

Mitutoyo 293-186-30 Quatumike 1-2
Mitutoyo 293-187-30 Quatumike 2-3

I am just a hobbyist and I can't justify them... I went with these instead... ordered the 2-3 today...

Shars/Aventar IP65 2-3" Digital Micrometer - 89.95 + tax...yeah, that! I could go for...


----------



## Shiseiji

8" Logan shaper. Craig's List Photo, still in the trailer until the shop is finished, I hope this week. Had hoped the tooling would include an internal key cutter, but not that lucky. Vise is original. Too funny, guy purchased it in the town I just brought it back to.


----------



## rwm

erikmannie said:


> I got to spend somebody else’s money for this one. The customer is supplying the money for the cutting tools and material in advance.
> 
> All solid carbide: two #3 center drills, one #5 center drill, three 5/16” drills & two 3/8” drills.
> 
> All on one order from Suncoast Tools: $195.06 including tax & shipping (but they didn’t charge me tax). I get to keep the worn tools after the job!
> 
> These are for drilling over 200 (!) holes in .125” wall 304 stainless steel angle. The angle is 1-1/2” X 1-1/2”. These are support brackets for a hardwood fence. The tolerance for this job is 1/32”.
> 
> I have almost no experience machining stainless, but I saw this:


Be careful with those carbide drills. They like to snap if the geometry gets crooked at all. I usually prefer Cobalt steel but for that many holes carbide may be the way to go.


----------



## GT-6 Racer

Shiseiji said:


> 8" Logan shaper. Craig's List Photo, still in the trailer until the shop is finished, I hope this week. Had hoped the tooling would include an internal key cutter, but not that lucky. Vise is original. Too funny, guy purchased it in the town I just brought it back to.
> 
> View attachment 422030


Internal key cutter is easy to make.  I’ve done a bunch of 2mm keys for first robotics gears and pulleys with mine.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

with stainless turn slow and feed hard, don't dwell. Lots of cutting oil helps too. This afternoon I drilled and reamed a 2 1/2" deep 3/16" hole in some mystery stainless with a cobalt drill. Went fine, drill still looks good. Carbide will also be fine, though I tend only to use it when I hit a work hardening moment


----------



## Shiseiji

GT-6 Racer said:


> Internal key cutter is easy to make.  I’ve done a bunch of 2mm keys for first robotics gears and pulleys with mine.


Thanks. I have one half made, no excuse now not to finish it. "I'm a gunna."


----------



## matthewsx

Shiseiji said:


> 8" Logan shaper. Craig's List Photo, still in the trailer until the shop is finished, I hope this week. Had hoped the tooling would include an internal key cutter, but not that lucky. Vise is original. Too funny, guy purchased it in the town I just brought it back to.
> 
> View attachment 422030


This one?









						Logan/Porter Cable/Brodhead-Garret 8-inch shaper - tools - by owner...
					

Sweet little metal shaper. Works wonderfully and I have used it for tool making. Has tooling vise and lexan shield to keep chips in the tray. Eight inches square, the box table Maximum real stroke...



					sfbay.craigslist.org


----------



## wachuko

Ordered a MIG welder... got an additional 10% discount with one of those YouTube videos... Went with this one: YesWelder YWM-211P Double Pulse Aluminum MIG Welder


----------



## G-ManBart

Mill Lee farm said:


> And is it hinged (connected) at the bottom of the jaws? Maybe a blacksmith vise?


Yes, to hinged on the bottom, but not really a blacksmith vise since it's not intended for heavy work.  They won't withstand much in the way of pounding since they're cast iron compared to a blacksmith post vise which can take years of abuse at the end of a hammer.


----------



## wachuko

682bear said:


> The piece on the left...
> 
> View attachment 421926
> 
> 
> ...is an 'anvil'. It mounts to the bench with the slot in the bottom. The vise swivels in the anvil... there is a locking handle on the opposite side to lock the swivel.
> 
> -Bear


Got it.  I also saw a few videos on it.  There is even a manual drill press attachment for it... cool


----------



## erikmannie

I received the package from @mattthemuppet2 today. I paid him Thursday, & I have the items in hand 4 days later with a Sunday in between.

This was $390. Everything is solid carbide. It is 8 quantity 1” endmills, plus smaller endmills, chamfer mills & inserts that you see.

I cleaned him out. I’m going to have to stop buying stuff for the next year so I can pay our debts down to zero.

Matt always had stellar service & amazing prices.


----------



## wachuko

Needed a few things and placed an order with McMaster earlier today...

4 - 316 Stainless Steel Ultra-Low-Profile Socket Head Screw M4 x 0.70 mm Thread, 16 mm Long
6 -  316 Stainless Steel Ultra-Low-Profile Socket Head Screw M4 x 0.70 mm Thread, 6 mm Long
1 - Tight-Tolerance High-Strength 17-4 PH Stainless Steel Rod 10 mm Diameter, 1/2 Feet Long
1 - Carbide Round-Shank Reamer 4 mm Reamer Diameter
1 - 5C Round Collet 10 mm Size... probably could have used a 3/8" collect that I have, but did not wanted to risk it...  and yes, I have an ER40 collect chuck for the G0709 with metric collect set, but guess in what house that is... back in Orlando, it never made it to Ocala! 

Since I was there, this got my attention, I do not have one here in Ocala, figured I would get this one...

1 - Scriber for Hardened Steel and Stainless Steel Straight Retractable Tip, 6-1/2" Length

And now, while I write this... I am having second thoughts... the other one that I have is a Starrett... it is thin and the tip is much, much longer... that makes it easier to scribe in small spaces.  hummm.... I might regret this purchase.  We will see...


----------



## rwm

That scribe sure is pretty! I think I need that for Christmas.


----------



## NCjeeper

I got my Rees No.2 toe jack. 4 ton capacity built in the 1920's. Really cool and it won't leak down or blow a seal like a hydraulic jack will.


----------



## wachuko

NCjeeper said:


> I got my Rees No.2 toe jack. 4 ton capacity built in the 1920's. Really cool and it won't leak down or blow a seal like a hydraulic jack will.
> View attachment 422321
> 
> View attachment 422322


You have to make a video using it... wow!  That looks so cool.  Where did you find it?  What is the story behind it?  Any?


----------



## NCjeeper

Will do. Found it on E-bay. Another You-tube machinist (Doozer's shop) featured it on his channel and I had to have one.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought 2 of these on eBay for $245.86 including tax & shipping. These are for CXA.

For this price, I get 8 holders, 2 pieces of aluminum extrusion, all hardware & endcaps.


----------



## mmcmdl

NCjeeper said:


> I got my Rees No.2 toe jack. 4 ton capacity built in the 1920's.


What can you use that for Tom ? I have a 22 ton in the garage . I always figured it was for lifting railroad cars or something .


----------



## NCjeeper

mmcmdl said:


> What can you use that for Tom ?


Lifting up machines.


----------



## pontiac428

erikmannie said:


> I bought 2 of these on eBay for $245.86 including tax & shipping. These are for CXA.
> 
> For this price, I get 8 holders, 2 pieces of aluminum extrusion, all hardware & endcaps.



That's a beaut!  I bet $490 will buy a few sticks of 80/20 and enough titanium scraps to make the holder-holders.  Why let some schmuck with a turn-key 3d printer take money from a guy who owns tools?  And titanium!


----------



## Dhal22

mmcmdl said:


> What can you use that for Tom ? I have a 22 ton in the garage . I always figured it was for lifting railroad cars or something .




I had a 38 ton railroad jack years ago and it was for lifting rail cars.


----------



## erikmannie

pontiac428 said:


> That's a beaut!  I bet $490 will buy a few sticks of 80/20 and enough titanium scraps to make the holder-holders.  Why let some schmuck with a turn-key 3d printer take money from a guy who owns tools?  And titanium!



The $246 was for *both* racks.

I coulda shoulda woulda fabbed my own, but I am very much looking forward to spending my free time practicing welding for the foreseeable future. I have been getting set up for this for 2 1/2 years, and only now I find myself set up to do so in the manner that I planned. Most people would find this boring, but I find it very fulfilling.


----------



## Ben17484

Soldering (Soddering for the Americans??) iron tips. Ready for my ELS upgrade. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## erikmannie

I bought these for the purpose of mounting two “CXA lathe tool organizers” to the backsplash of my engine lathe.

I paid $54.63 including tax & delivery for 10 of these. I only need 8 of them.




My lathe backsplash has a ridge sticking out of it so I *might* use these as stand offs to clear that ridge, and then fab the mount which would be a very easy task.

Alternatively, I could use these as per their design (i.e. mounted to the side of the aluminum extrusion), and then fab the stand offs (i.e. “spacers”) needed to clear the ridge.


----------



## sdelivery

75.00
18 Metabo 4 1/2 disc
12 weiler 80 grit flat  disc
12 CGW compact ceramic
6 Pferd Poly fan
and a desperately needed wire wheel


----------



## WobblyHand

Ben17484 said:


> Soldering (Soddering for the Americans??) iron tips. Ready for my ELS upgrade.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Although pronounced that way in the US, we still maintain the English spelling.  Wishing you luck in your ELS journey.  At least for me, the ELS trip so far has been fun.


----------



## Ben17484

MT2 ER25 Collet Chuck






Multimeter test leads (long probe)






Magnifying glass / work holder 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mill Lee farm

Finally got around to my lathe feet!
Get my 1340 3” higher


----------



## extropic

@Mill Lee farm 

Why did you redact the material description?


----------



## Mill Lee farm

extropic said:


> @Mill Lee farm
> 
> Why did you redact the material description?


That was my name lol
Material is 3” 1018
Price per inch was much lower. Listed price is actually including the cutting labor

Just a quick dirty receipt I think 

I’m not sure how this pricing compares, but I chose the 3” 1018 because the 3-1/2” 1045 was 3 times the price!?!

He was charging me purchased price. Material cost has been…. fickle? The 3” was purchased at a better cost.

Anyway, my sourcing for stock is extremely limited in my area unless I want to drive 1 to 2 hours

Besides! Super nice guy! We talked for over an hour and he took me on a tour of the whole shop! (it was after hours)

<edit>
I just took calipers to one. Varies between 3.050”- 3.040”. No way I would have accomplished that with my equipment…
Cut surface finish is way better too!


----------



## DiscoDan

I don't do any blacksmithing but I picked up this vise at a recent auction. It's going to need a new screw and some other work. This one is a little bit different than every other one I've seen online so far. The hinge on most is usually just a metal strap with a bolt running through it but this has the two massive plates on the side. And it weighs a ton. But should make a nice vuse when it's done.


----------



## ChazzC

WobblyHand said:


> Although pronounced that way in the US, we still maintain the English spelling.  Wishing you luck in your ELS journey.  At least for me, the ELS trip so far has been fun.


However, some still say “yoll-kes” when referring to the yellow stuff inside of eggs.


----------



## brino

DiscoDan said:


> But should make a nice vuse when it's done.



Excepting for those big ole cracks, Dang!



Have you got a repair strategy for those, or is this just a "gentle use" or "looking at" vise?

Brian


----------



## great white

Picked up a kbic-120 for little money:







I have a preference for dc motors over ac. Mostly because of how they perform at low rpm settings. So this will be used to convert something like the drill press or band saw to dc power…


----------



## Gaffer

My prize package arrived yesterday!


Thanks, Dave!


----------



## Papa Charlie

brino said:


> Excepting for those big ole cracks, Dang!
> View attachment 422552
> 
> 
> Have you got a repair strategy for those, or is this just a "gentle use" or "looking at" vise?
> 
> Brian


Time to do some brazing.


----------



## pontiac428

Mill Lee farm said:


> That was my name lol
> Material is 3” 1018
> Price per inch was much lower. Listed price is actually including the cutting labor
> 
> Just a quick dirty receipt I think
> 
> I’m not sure how this pricing compares, but I chose the 3” 1018 because the 3-1/2” 1045 was 3 times the price!?!
> 
> He was charging me purchased price. Material cost has been…. fickle? The 3” was purchased at a better cost.
> 
> Anyway, my sourcing for stock is extremely limited in my area unless I want to drive 1 to 2 hours
> 
> Besides! Super nice guy! We talked for over an hour and he took me on a tour of the whole shop! (it was after hours)
> 
> <edit>
> I just took calipers to one. Varies between 3.050”- 3.040”. No way I would have accomplished that with my equipment…
> Cut surface finish is way better too!



I just did the same thing.  My mounting feet threads are 24mm fine bolts, and I bought some affordable biscuits of 10L14 for a few bucks apiece.  This method cost about 15 dollars per foot times eight, which is at least five fold cheaper than sourcing a rare thread oversize turn-key leveling pad.


----------



## DiscoDan

brino said:


> Excepting for those big ole cracks, Dang!
> View attachment 422552
> 
> 
> Have you got a repair strategy for those, or is this just a "gentle use" or "looking at" vise?
> 
> Brian


Papa Charlie suggested brazing but since this thing is not cast iron, it could be welded. As you suggest it will probably be gentle use if I even keep it.


----------



## IamNotImportant

erikmannie said:


> I bought an Aloris CXA-41 directly from Aloris. A CXA-41 holds a 1” boring bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boring Bar Holder CXA-104
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.aloris.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 421737
> 
> 
> Aloris had 20% off; this covered the handling fee & UPS Ground shipping. The entire order came to $138.47. Even though I live in CA, Aloris didn’t charge me sales tax.


would you like to own another CXA boring bar holder....


----------



## Papa Charlie

pontiac428 said:


> I just did the same thing.  My mounting feet threads are 24mm fine bolts, and I bought some affordable biscuits of 10L14 for a few bucks apiece.  This method cost about 15 dollars per foot times eight, which is at least five fold cheaper than sourcing a rare thread oversize turn-key leveling pad.
> 
> View attachment 422599
> 
> View attachment 422601


Nice, did you put the bevel and hole in them yourself. How will they support the bolt face. Those should displace the weight really well and those fine threaded bolts should make small adjustments very easy.

I went down to my hydraulic cylinder repair shop and they gave me several pieces of 3.5" diameter cylinder rods for, well I paid $20 for almost 5 feet of it, but they really only asked me to give them coffee money and didn't specify a value. I do still have to cut them into the discs I need but no hurry as the lathe is still in storage. But I am ready for it.


----------



## Aukai

118.00 plus postage. 0-1 Quantumike


----------



## Mill Lee farm

Papa Charlie said:


> I went down to my hydraulic cylinder repair shop and they gave me several pieces of 3.5" diameter cylinder rods


I stopped in to mine and they said them never see anything that wide in all the agricultural stuff they work on….


----------



## DAM 79

pontiac428 said:


> I just did the same thing.  My mounting feet threads are 24mm fine bolts, and I bought some affordable biscuits of 10L14 for a few bucks apiece.  This method cost about 15 dollars per foot times eight, which is at least five fold cheaper than sourcing a rare thread oversize turn-key leveling pad.
> 
> View attachment 422599
> 
> View attachment 422601


I visit my junk yard regularly and find 3”-4” solid round stock all the time and made these for my little monarch just haven’t put them under it yet because I am in the process of tearing my shop down and building it back the junk yard Is always worth a trip


----------



## erikmannie

IamNotImportant said:


> would you like to own another CXA boring bar holder....



PM sent!


----------



## pontiac428

I've been looking for one of these for some time now.  It's a Luma electro-etcher whatsit.  They are not hard to locate in a condition that indicates they were found in an abandoned barn and spent the time being used as a packrat midden.  I got this one new old stock for less than ones listed as having been magnet fished out of the river by the overpass that leads to the landfill.  Score! 

It's a purely manual machine.  I grind my tools, so now I can label them.  I have a gajillion hand tools to write my name on so that they are guaranteed to get less on eBay after I leave this world for good.  I can leave notes or bad poetry hidden under things like valve covers, to be discovered like a message in a bottle.  If it works on brass, I can finally write all those people's names on bullets (so that I can remember them later).  Ha ha, just kidding, I'm not at risk for falling down. Violence must be bad because it makes other people frown.  Back to your regularly scheduled program.


----------



## wachuko

Not everything are tools…


----------



## Steve-F

Superb drawings in there!!


----------



## ChazzC

wachuko said:


> Not everything are tools…
> 
> View attachment 422777
> 
> View attachment 422778



But he was an engineer (and artist, sculptor, mathematician, inventor . . . hmm, Renaissance Man [where have I heard that before?])


----------



## great white

picked up a set of inexpensive parallels:




Been needing a set for a while. Got a little bit of birthday money recently so I went out and bought a set.


----------



## WhyW8

great white said:


> picked up a set of inexpensive parallels:


On my list of things yet to buy


----------



## bfk

I thought the price was fair.


----------



## snoopdog

bfk said:


> View attachment 422834
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the price was fair.


Very nice


----------



## Dhal22

wachuko said:


> Not everything are tools…
> 
> View attachment 422777
> 
> View attachment 422778




I went to a DA Vinci exhibit in London,  just simply amazing.


----------



## great white

Had another decent sized chunk of bday $$$ come in, so bought something else I’ve wanted for the mill for a while now:



 Ebay/India special, but a crappy RT is better than none at all and the price was ok.

I really don’t have a need for the dividers, but I figure its another process I can learn and if I ever _DO_ need them I’ve got them...


----------



## Just for fun

Picked up a little trailer for my ATV, I need to remove the top and deck, basically get rid of all the old wood and rebuild from there.  But what the heck $25 bucks I couldn't go wrong.


----------



## ttabbal

great white said:


> Ebay/India special, but a crappy RT is better than none at all and the price was ok.
> 
> I really don’t have a need for the dividers, but I figure its another process I can learn and if I ever _DO_ need them I’ve got them...



I have a Grizzly version of that. It works well for the few times I want to do rotary stuff on the mill. I also have the dividing plates, but ended up getting a dividing head so I don't use them at the moment. They work the same way as the dividing head, which is pretty straight forward once you get the hang of it. 

I would recommend opening it up for a good cleaning and lubrication job before use. I did find some cosmo or similar in there along with some chips and such. Seems like it's pretty common for import gear. Nothing too crazy, but might as well be sure. 

If it didn't come with it, and you don't already have them, look into a small clamping kit. Maybe a screwless vise. You can't cut things you can't hold.


----------



## wachuko

bfk said:


> View attachment 422834
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the price was fair.


Could not see the price you paid from the phone... now I can see it.... 

"I thought the price was fair". Ha!


----------



## great white

ttabbal said:


> I have a Grizzly version of that. It works well for the few times I want to do rotary stuff on the mill. I also have the dividing plates, but ended up getting a dividing head so I don't use them at the moment. They work the same way as the dividing head, which is pretty straight forward once you get the hang of it.
> 
> I would recommend opening it up for a good cleaning and lubrication job before use. I did find some cosmo or similar in there along with some chips and such. Seems like it's pretty common for import gear. Nothing too crazy, but might as well be sure.
> 
> If it didn't come with it, and you don't already have them, look into a small clamping kit. Maybe a screwless vise. You can't cut things you can't hold.


Yep, I treat anything from china/india as a “kit”. First order of business is always a QA session and fixes/repairs if needed.


----------



## 682bear

I acquired another old vise from a co-worker this morning... it's pretty interesting...










There is no manufacturers name on it, but it has '1640 ILLIN' cast into the t-bar...




...and 'R 37 14LB' on the moveable jaw...




Other than that, all I know about it is that it is pretty old...

-Bear


----------



## francist

682bear said:


> There is no manufacturers name on it, but it has '1640 ILLIN' cast into the t-bar..


I couldn’t find anything really definitive on a maker either, but I did find quite a few similar vises out there. One, a “Sturdy” if indeed that’s supposed to mean the name of the company looks promising but I didn’t find anything other than the one ad. Good price, though! 

As for the _1640 ILLIN _on the rail, I found another with the same but it extended a bit further with _1640 ILLINOIS USA _so I’m wondering if yours might have been a shortened version or maybe chopped shorter later. Seems too coincidental to be anything other than the same maker.

-frank


----------



## Eyerelief

Bear, I am beginning to believe that one of your vices is vises.


----------



## pontiac428

"Combination drill, vise, anvil, and hardy" for the bargain price of $4.10, I bet that was a tempting purchase for many farmers.  It's a very interesting tool.

Are we about to hit 1,000 pages of purchasing power, both premeditated and impulsive?


----------



## 682bear

francist said:


> I couldn’t find anything really definitive on a maker either, but I did find quite a few similar vises out there. One, a “Sturdy” if indeed that’s supposed to mean the name of the company looks promising but I didn’t find anything other than the one ad. Good price, though!
> 
> As for the _1640 ILLIN _on the rail, I found another with the same but it extended a bit further with _1640 ILLINOIS USA _so I’m wondering if yours might have been a shortened version or maybe chopped shorter later. Seems too coincidental to be anything other than the same maker.
> 
> -frank
> 
> View attachment 422921
> 
> 
> View attachment 422922
> 
> 
> View attachment 422923



Someone over on the OWWM/OMWM site says the lower t-bar is made from a piece of small guage railroad track... the 1640 Illinois was cast into the track, and refers to the track manufacturer... Illinois Steel...

The guys over there seem to be pretty sure this vise was manufactured by Rock Island Manufacturing... one of the owners of R.I.M, Carl Sheilds, had a patent on the basic design back in 1914.



Eyerelief said:


> Bear, I am beginning to believe that one of your vices is vises.



You may be right... 

-Bear


----------



## francist

Oh cool. I did see a similarity in the vise rail and a railway rail but I didn’t know about the Illinois Steel connection. I guess that might explain how yours ended up with only partial lettering. That 1914 patent shows up on the vise from Ted Hays although it’s not the greatest photo. Others showed it more clearly.

Good sleuthing


----------



## FOMOGO

I have a 1956 (image improved) copy of the original 1938 text. I leave it on the dinning room table, and occasionally go through a few more pages. Pretty amazing individual, for his, or any time. Mike



wachuko said:


> Not everything are tools…


----------



## Eyerelief

Picked up a pretty stout fly cutter by Suburban tool. It has a one inch square cutter holder. I still need to fiddle with speeds and feeds but here is a piece of D2 cut .005 deep, 600 rpm, 3 IPM.  The D2 was less than half the diameter of the cutter which wasn’t optimal but the finish looks promising. 
I first tried .005 deep and followed with a spring pass, but not surprising, the carbide didn’t do well on the spring pass.


----------



## Dhal22

Just for fun said:


> Picked up a little trailer for my ATV, I need to remove the top and deck, basically get rid of all the old wood and rebuild from there.  But what the heck $25 bucks I couldn't go wrong.
> 
> View attachment 422893
> 
> 
> View attachment 422894




So $25 for wheels?


----------



## Dhal22

Eyerelief said:


> Bear, I am beginning to believe that one of your vices is vises.




My advice is to control your vise vice............


----------



## 682bear

Dhal22 said:


> My advice is to control your vise vice............



Where's the fun in that?

-Bear


----------



## 7milesup

Picked up four Jacobs chucks. (1) 14N 0-1/2 capacity.  (2) 16N 1/8-5/8" capacity and (1) 18N 1/8-3/4" capacity.  I bought all four of them for $130.
They seem to all be in excellent condition.


----------



## great white

Just for fun said:


> Picked up a little trailer for my ATV, I need to remove the top and deck, basically get rid of all the old wood and rebuild from there.  But what the heck $25 bucks I couldn't go wrong.
> 
> View attachment 422893
> 
> 
> View attachment 422894


Maybe consider some atv rims and tires if you plan to have it follow an atv.

I bought the same trailer base (used) a while ago. I lived with the trailer tires for a while, then swapped on a set of ATV rims and tires. The trailer tires were usable on hard surfaces, but sunk horribly on anything close to soft ground. I finally ended up chucking the springs, welding axle stubs directly to the frame and dropping on some 23” garden tractor tires.

The tractor tires (turf savers) were the best upgrade. Lots of floatation on soft surfaces and despite the welded on stubs, it “bounces” less than when it had the leaf springs.

With the springs it would hit a bump and bounce, then bounce a few more times as the springs settled. With welded stubs, it hit a bump and bounces, but without the leaf springs it settles down much quicker. The initial “hit“ was harder without the springs, but without the springs it didn’t continue to bounce and toss more and more stuff overboard like it would with the springs. YMMV…


----------



## ChazzC

Eyerelief said:


> Picked up a pretty stout fly cutter by Suburban tool. It has a one inch square cutter holder. I still need to fiddle with speeds and feeds but here is a piece of D2 cut .005 deep, 600 rpm, 3 IPM.  The D2 was less than half the diameter of the cutter which wasn’t optimal but the finish looks promising.
> I first tried .005 deep and followed with a spring pass, but not surprising, the carbide didn’t do well on the spring pass.



I would say more than "promising" when you can read the reflection of the lettering on the tool holder.

Interesting orientation of the insert, but the near vertical outside edge is close to what your get when using a LH brazed tool. That, with the 1" shank and minimal stick-out really gives you a rigid setup.


----------



## Shiseiji

matthewsx said:


> This one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Logan/Porter Cable/Brodhead-Garret 8-inch shaper - tools - by owner...
> 
> 
> Sweet little metal shaper. Works wonderfully and I have used it for tool making. Has tooling vise and lexan shield to keep chips in the tray. Eight inches square, the box table Maximum real stroke...
> 
> 
> 
> sfbay.craigslist.org


Nope, picked mine up east of Seattle.


----------



## G-ManBart

DiscoDan said:


> Papa Charlie suggested brazing but since this thing is not cast iron, it could be welded. As you suggest it will probably be gentle use if I even keep it.


Yeah, most post vises are some kind of steel and can be welded.  I've had many dozens of post vises and I think yours has seen a number of modifications over the years.  For example, the mounting bracket and hardware are much newer than the rest of the vise (hex bolts are a giveaway).  Still, I'd weld up the cracks and, clean it up and put it back in service.  You might find manufacturers stamps once you get it cleaned up.  Some were on the face but many were on the flats of the sides slightly below the screw...worth a look just for curiosity's sake.


----------



## G-ManBart

Dhal22 said:


> My advice is to control your vise vice............



Yes, good advice for sure....it doesn't take long to get out of control!

I stopped counting vises at 300 and anvils at 100....I finally decided it was getting ridiculous and sold most of both.  I have about half a dozen of each left.  That paid for most of my machinery.  My BP, drill press and lathes occupy the spaces pictured below.


----------



## pontiac428

G-ManBart said:


> I stopped counting vises at 300 and anvils at 100....



Parents get their kids' names confused if they have more than 5, and you say you have 300 vises and a hundred anvils?!

I don't know what you should do first, rehab or marriage counseling.  That's a historical collection at that level.  You should enter your collection in a legal trust so it can end up in a vise and anvil museum when you're done using done with them.

No wonder it's hard to find a good deal on an older Wilton!


----------



## G-ManBart

pontiac428 said:


> Parents get their kids' names confused if they have more than 5, and you say you have 300 vises and a hundred anvils?!
> 
> I don't know what you should do first, rehab or marriage counseling.  That's a historical collection at that level.  You should enter your collection in a legal trust so it can end up in a vise and anvil museum when you're done using done with them.
> 
> No wonder it's hard to find a good deal on an older Wilton!


Haha...my wife is okay with it since it keeps me out of trouble!  I sold off almost all of the vises and anvils and used that money to pay for machinery.  I'm down to 7 anvils, two post vises and less than ten vises...one on each bench and a couple that are fairly rare/significant.

FYI, for a user the new Wiltons are better than the old ones....no question about it even if they aren't as pretty.  I have a website dedicated to vises and have a pretty good history on Wilton that's sort of the de facto standard people reference.









						Wilton Vise Date Stamping • MIVise
					

***Note: If you’re reading this post so you can cut and paste portions for your eBay listing please be kind enough to cite the source.  There were a lot of people before me who put time into collecting this information and they should at least be given credit.*** One of the most common questions...




					mivise.com


----------



## wachuko

Took advantage of a special and got a side mounted garage door opener.  Something I needed to do to remove the garage door opener that is currently there and free up ceiling space...

Eventually I will move the milling machine around in that part of the garage and want as much ceiling clearance as possible...


----------



## erikmannie

I sold some bicycle parts that I didn’t need anymore (that were in my way every day!) & used *all* the money to but 3 new tool holders directly from Aloris in NJ. Aloris has 20% off this month, as they usually do.

One of these:





__





						Turning and Facing Holder CXA-1
					






					www.aloris.com
				







and two of these:





__





						Boring, Turning and Facing Holder CXA-2
					






					www.aloris.com
				







Price was $299.96 including tax & shipping.


----------



## pontiac428

Today, after months of searching and sleeping badly on the lumps in my cash-stuffed mattress, I pulled the good trigger on a Miller Dynasty 280 DX TIG machine to replace my venerable yet basic late '70s Miller Dialarc HF.

All settled after selling my old machine, I should be into the new machine maybe $3-4k, which isn't bad for a $10k setup.  Pulsed TIG and AC balance here I come!

I pained over what to update my welder with.  I wanted AC wave tools bad.  I looked at every make and model I could find from USA and Europe and kept pining for the big blue.  I talked to my dad about it, and he told me all about how he and Paul Miller (Miller's founder) became really good friends, what kind of guy he was, and how he ran the business.  The welders just run for life.  It reminded me of how good my experience has been with the four Millers I've owned over the last 25 years, and that I'd better buy once, cry once.  I didn't have to cry this time!

It's in the hands of UPS, but something like this:


----------



## erikmannie

pontiac428 said:


> Today, after months of searching and sleeping badly on the lumps in my cash-stuffed mattress, I pulled the good trigger on a Miller Dynasty 280 DX TIG machine to replace my venerable yet basic late '70s Miller Dialarc HF.
> 
> All settled after selling my old machine, I should be into the new machine maybe $3-4k, which isn't bad for a $10k setup.  Pulsed TIG and AC balance here I come!
> 
> I pained over what to update my welder with.  I wanted AC wave tools bad.  I looked at every make and model I could find from USA and Europe and kept pining for the big blue.  I talked to my dad about it, and he told me all about how he and Paul Miller (Miller's founder) became really good friends, what kind of guy he was, and how he ran the business.  The welders just run for life.  It reminded me of how good my experience has been with the four Millers I've owned over the last 25 years, and that I'd better buy once, cry once.  I didn't have to cry this time!
> 
> It's in the hands of UPS, but something like this:



What a nice welding machine you have on the way. I have a Miller Dynasty 210DX, & it runs 6010 *very* nicely. I have had zero problems with my Dynasty.

Are you going to get a 20 Series (water cooled) torch? CK Worldwide sells nice torches.


----------



## Papa Charlie

wachuko said:


> Took advantage of a special and got a side mounted garage door opener.  Something I needed to do to remove the garage door opener that is currently there and free up ceiling space...
> 
> Eventually I will move the milling machine around in that part of the garage and want as much ceiling clearance as possible...
> 
> View attachment 423253


Had a torsion bar lift in our house in California. Loved not having the traditional ceiling mounted opener taking up valuable head space. Also added long radius track sections to get the door up closer to the ceiling. Gained about 6" of head space when the door was open (Don't remember the actual amount but door handle just cleared the ceiling). Cheap modification. Just add the long radius track pieces and raise the horizontal track up to match.


----------



## pontiac428

erikmannie said:


> What a nice welding machine you have on the way. I have a Miller Dynasty 210DX, & it runs 6010 *very* nicely. I have had zero problems with my Dynasty.
> 
> Are you going to get a 20 Series (water cooled) torch? CK Worldwide sells nice torches.


I'm really excited!  I already have a CK 25 and a consumables stash that I'm transferring from my Dialarc.  I'm looking forward to all the features, but I'm also excited about the space savings... Replacing my transformer tig and industrial Stak Pak plasma with inverter machines frees up several square feet of floor space! 

The current lineup.  Should be able to make enough room for that plasma table with those nifty shrunk-down new machines!


----------



## wachuko

Papa Charlie said:


> Had a torsion bar lift in our house in California. Loved not having the traditional ceiling mounted opener taking up valuable head space. Also added long radius track sections to get the door up closer to the ceiling. Gained about 6" of head space when the door was open (Don't remember the actual amount but door handle just cleared the ceiling). Cheap modification. Just add the long radius track pieces and raise the horizontal track up to match.


Is it that simple?  I was reluctant to raise the tracks thinking I had to change and move the spring... if it is just getting the larger radius track... I will do that as well!!

Here is a photo where you can see how low the tracks are...


----------



## wachuko

pontiac428 said:


> I'm really excited!  I already have a CK 25 and a consumables stash that I'm transferring from my Dialarc.  I'm looking forward to all the features, but I'm also excited about the space savings... Replacing my transformer tig and industrial Stak Pak plasma with inverter machines frees up several square feet of floor space!
> 
> The current lineup.  Should be able to make enough room for that plasma table with those nifty shrunk-down new machines!
> 
> View attachment 423340



I am amazed of how small and lightweight the new welders are...    If it was not for the tanks,  I could fit the TIG, MIG, and the plasma cutter all in the small cart I have...

Heck, there is even one machine that has it all in one....


----------



## pontiac428

wachuko said:


> I am amazed of how small and lightweight the new welders are...



Microprocessor-controlled high-amperage solid-state transistors are a freaking miracle-of-technology!  

Hmm, too many hyphens.


----------



## 682bear

We (my wife, youngest daughter, and I) are in Hendersonville, NC today and tomorrow. We went to the Fall Harvest Days festival at the Western NC Agriculture Center this afternoon. The festival includes a farm equipment and stationary engine show, tractor pull, and swap meet...

I spent most of the afternoon browsing through the various vendors' booths... I didn't buy much... but I did find an old Mitutoyo test indicator...




It needs cleaning, but works well...

We will be back there tomorrow morning to browse some more and see the tractor pull before starting on the 5 hour drive back home...

-Bear


----------



## Papa Charlie

wachuko said:


> Is it that simple?  I was reluctant to raise the tracks thinking I had to change and move the spring... if it is just getting the larger radius track... I will do that as well!!
> 
> Here is a photo where you can see how low the tracks are...
> 
> View attachment 423348


That is all it took on my garage. May need a different bracket for the radius. Give you garage dealer a call and talk to them. But unless something has changed dramatically in the last15 years about garage door track, that should do it.


----------



## Gnpenning

wachuko said:


> Is it that simple?  I was reluctant to raise the tracks thinking I had to change and move the spring... if it is just getting the larger radius track... I will do that as well!!
> 
> Here is a photo where you can see how low the tracks are...
> 
> View attachment 423348


Technically you should use high lift drums which require longer cables and different springs do to the increased height you are lifting the door and holding more of the weight of the door when opened. 

How often and how you use the door will dictate what corners you can cut and the level it will effect you.

Agreed, check with your local door company.


----------



## erikmannie

I am being paid $700 labor for an easy machining job which will take me about 20 hours (making 8 quantity SS brackets for a fence). I spent *almost all* of the money on an order from Aloris:

1 of these:




__





						Turning and Facing Holder CXA-1
					






					www.aloris.com
				







2 of these:




__





						Boring Bar Holder CXA-100
					






					www.aloris.com
				







1 of these:




__





						SGIH 26-4C-CX7 CUT-OFF BLADE
					






					www.aloris.com
				







20 of these (which go into parting/grooving blade above):




__





						GT Style Aloris Wedge-Grip Carbide Cut-Off Insert GTN-4P-A6
					






					www.aloris.com
				







and 10 of these (which go in an Aloris boring bar):




__





						Carbide Inserts for Mini Swivel-Cartridge Tool Holder ATPG-642-A6*
					






					www.aloris.com
				







With this order (which was 20% off as is usually the case on Aloris’ website), I *have to be done buying tools*! I need to switch gears & transition to retirement (and hopefully not Worker’s Comp) from my day job, starting with paying off a whopping $40K in consumer debt (100% of which was for quality tools & equipment). You can’t retire when you have that on your shoulders!


----------



## pontiac428

pontiac428 said:


> Today, after months of searching and sleeping badly on the lumps in my cash-stuffed mattress, I pulled the good trigger on a Miller Dynasty 280 DX TIG machine to replace my venerable yet basic late '70s Miller Dialarc HF.



Well, shoot.  The seller is waffling on me over his listing- he thinks since I got a second chance offer on an auction, that he can keep the dang water cooler because he didn't get his asking price on the live auction.  Rules are rules, man!  This makes the THIRD deal I've paid in full for, and the seller weaseled out.  So in another 24 hours, I'll be back on my search if he doesn't see the light.

eBay, Craigslist, you get what you pay for...

There is a solid Dynasty 350 up quasi-locally that hasn't sold in the last two months.  Maybe I'll go kick the tires on that one.  I had enough money set aside before the pandemic, inflation, insert-crisis-name-here crisis event, now I need DOUBLE that to buy new from Miller.  Hey, my money was worth something when I made it, why isn't it now?


----------



## Larry42

pontiac428 said:


> my money was worth something when I made it, why isn't it now?


I'd comment on why but it's not permitted on this site. Lets just say some other institution has been spending your $!


erikmannie said:


> a whopping $40K in consumer debt


Ouch! With the direction interest rates are going, the pain is likely to get much greater.


----------



## pontiac428

erikmannie said:


> starting with paying off a whopping $40K in consumer debt (100% of which was for quality tools & equipment).



Erik, as much as I don't want to admit it, by front loading your machine purchases on credit you may have come out ahead, because you bought a lot at the old prices instead of saving, waiting, and paying today's prices.  Who would have thunk it?


----------



## erikmannie

pontiac428 said:


> Erik, as much as I don't want to admit it, by front loading your machine purchases on credit you may have come out ahead, because you bought a lot at the old prices instead of saving, waiting, and paying today's prices.  Who would have thunk it?



It is funny that you should mention this because, after I read about your Miller Dynasty search, I looked at how much a new Dynasty 210DX costs nowadays.

I am aware of the “finance about half the cost of equipment just before inflation kicks in”, but I can’t take credit for it because it was dumb luck.

Now I have to figure out a way to be *austere* even though I have been impulsive ever since my “scrimp & save” best friend got killed in a car accident when he was 19 years old. The lesson I took from that is to “get while the getting is good”. Maybe that was wrong, but I have thought about it a lot & I always come to the same conclusion.


----------



## pontiac428

You and I have that in common, my best friend died at 25.  I get it, you can't always count on getting enough tomorrows.  He was famously tight with his money, and I had no problem enabling him by giving him the keys to my cargo container shop and tools.

On a better note, the stuff we invest in should run and last the rest of our days and then some.  I find solace in that!


----------



## erikmannie

pontiac428 said:


> …the stuff we invest in should run and last the rest of our days and then some…



Yep, if you buy quality stuff & take care of it.


----------



## 682bear

682bear said:


> We (my wife, youngest daughter, and I) are in Hendersonville, NC today and tomorrow. We went to the Fall Harvest Days festival at the Western NC Agriculture Center this afternoon. The festival includes a farm equipment and stationary engine show, tractor pull, and swap meet...
> 
> I spent most of the afternoon browsing through the various vendors' booths... I didn't buy much... but I did find an old Mitutoyo test indicator...
> 
> View attachment 423359
> 
> 
> It needs cleaning, but works well...
> 
> We will be back there tomorrow morning to browse some more and see the tractor pull before starting on the 5 hour drive back home...
> 
> -Bear



We just arrived home from Hendersonville... I did make a couple of 'impulse' buys this morning...

First, a Millers Falls No. 97 breast drill...







It is a 2 speed ratcheting or continuous drill... I haven't had a chance to figure out all the functions yet.

The other buy was a stainless steel exhaust manifold for a 4.0 liter inline 6 cylinder Jeep engine... I think... lol!




-Bear


----------



## francist

Now there’s a bit of piping!


----------



## brino

682bear said:


> The other buy was a stainless steel exhaust manifold for a 4.0 liter inline 6 cylinder Jeep engine... I think... lol!





francist said:


> Now there’s a bit of piping!



It reminds me of a french horn.

Brian


----------



## FOMOGO

I guess the big question is, who's breast are you going to drill? Nice score. Mike



682bear said:


> First, a Millers Falls No. 97 breast drill...


----------



## francist

FOMOGO said:


> guess the big question is, who's breast are you going to drill?


So in other words you'd like to be kept abreast of future developments...?


----------



## matthewsx

Picked up this little Peerless watchmakers lathe. It’s about all I can fit into my shop now




John


----------



## Dhal22

matthewsx said:


> Picked up this little Peerless watchmakers lathe. It’s about all I can fit into my shop now
> 
> View attachment 423736
> 
> 
> John




I do like my little unimat lathe.


----------



## wachuko

matthewsx said:


> Picked up this little Peerless watchmakers lathe. It’s about all I can fit into my shop now
> 
> View attachment 423736
> 
> 
> John


So you are taking the approach of filling the glass with big rocks, then sand, then some sort of liquid to fill everything else?  Good approach. lol

All joking aside, do you collect them?  Or used them for the intended purpose?  Or just wanted to have one for its looks?

Videos I found on those...


----------



## matthewsx

I have a project in mind that may take some parts smaller than what I’d do on my 12x36. 

But mainly it’s just a sickness….


----------



## wachuko

matthewsx said:


> I have a project in mind that may take some parts smaller than what I’d do on my 12x36.
> 
> But mainly it’s just a sickness….


I suffer from the same illness...


----------



## GoceKU

With any machine is needed tooling. Last machine i bought was a tire machine, that means i need a bigger air compressor. After few options i decided i'll make me one, one piece i was missing was a one way valve. I've ordered first the silver one and it was too small also the quality was very bad, then i order the brass one wich should work. As i use the tire machine i've noticed i have to remove the wheel weights they can rip the tire and scratch the rim. Wheel weight pliers come from kosovo and they were not cheap, last thing i bought was this quick air chuck, makes inflating tires quick and easy, also allows me to get in on dual wheels to get to the inner valve. A bit specific but very useful tools for me.


----------



## ChazzC

matthewsx said:


> I have a project in mind that may take some parts smaller than what I’d do on my 12x36.


Have you seen what Joe Pie does on his (10” or 12”) lathe? Like single-pointing 2-56 threads, or boring an internal 4/0 taper in a 3/16” CRS quill?


----------



## Bi11Hudson

matthewsx said:


> I have a project in mind that may take some parts smaller than what I’d do on my 12x36.
> 
> But mainly it’s just a sickness….


As it happens, both of my machines (C'man 12X36 and Grizzly 9X19) have the same spindle nose, 1-1/2X8 and MT3. Not really happenstance, I sorta browsed looking for common points when I acquired the C'man. Because so much of my work is small for my model building, I have "devised" a number of adaptors to use chucks and fixtures from my UniMat DB-200. Of particular interest is the 3 inch (75mm?) 3 and 4 jaw chucks.  In addition, I had stumbled across another 3 jaw threaded for M12X1 with a MT2 shank. All of these have adapters dedicated for MT3 on the spindle. Some home brew, some bought. In every case, using the big machines is seemingly more difficult, but overall so much easier that I have "disposed" of the UniMat and a 6X12 Chinese machine. (ie: they were sold off)

The UniMat wouldn't cut threads so easily, requiring pattern pieces. And the 6X12, well, I have the same capabilities in a 9X19, so why bother. The 6X12 *is* small, but not so small I can use it at my desk. Mostly because of the plethora of tooling that goes along with it. Using the "big" machines for small work took some getting used to, but they hold the same, or better, tolerances than the small machines. What tooling I keep at my desk is so I don't need to run next door for a 3 square Swiss warding file or to drill a 1/2 millimeter hole. 

Is it a sickness, I suppose so. To me, it's an obsession. Which to a "shrink" is a sickness. But then I think of "experts" as has beens under pressure. (ex spurts) A "sickness" I welcome. . . 

.


----------



## WobblyHand

Odds and ends dribbling in, to support my ELS build.  Received some 80x80mm fan grills to ventilate the motor control box.  Also received a rivnut set tool and a pile of mandrels for SAE and metric.  Included were an assortment of rivnuts.  Haven't received the bigger assortment of rivnuts, yet.   What comes with the tool is just enough to get you in trouble, but not quite enough to finish the job.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Which alternatives to a Kurt would you buy?


----------



## Gaffer

IamNotImportant said:


> Which alternatives to a Kurt would you buy?


I have a 5” GMT that is awesome. I also have a Kurt D60.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Gaffer said:


> I have a 5” GMT that is awesome. I also have a Kurt D60.


Have been considering the GMT, for the 833tv, 5 inch or 6? You know that they say that bigger is better, but there can be too much of a good thing


----------



## WobblyHand

IamNotImportant said:


> Have been considering the GMT, for the 833tv, 5 inch or 6? You know that they say that bigger is better, but there can be too much of a good thing


Check the length of the vises.  Too much overhang is not a good thing and can get in your way.  Find a shoebox or a piece of wood about that long and see how it "feels" on the table.  Might make it easier to visualize and make a decision.  

That being said, 6" vises are more common and there are lots of cheap supplies for them.  I have a 4" Kurt and the premade jaws (of all sorts) have less suppliers than what you can find for the 6".


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> Check the length of the vises.  Too much overhang is not a good thing and can get in your way.  Find a shoebox or a piece of wood about that long and see how it "feels" on the table.  Might make it easier to visualize and make a decision.
> 
> That being said, 6" vises are more common and there are lots of cheap supplies for them.  I have a 4" Kurt and the premade jaws (of all sorts) have less suppliers than what you can find for the 6".


That's a good idea, never thought of that


----------



## hman

IamNotImportant said:


> Which alternatives to a Kurt would you buy?


A couple years ago I bought a Tegara vise from Shars.   See post #7 at:








						Kurt vs. Glacern vs. Homge
					

I'll be purchasing a new vise in the future for my PM835S. Haven't decided between a 5" or 6" yet. I'm thinking the 6" might be a little too big for my mill, but then again, I haven't received my mill just yet.   Is it worth paying a very large premium for Kurt vises? I hear good things about...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				



It's worked out very well for me.


----------



## NCjeeper

I have a Bison vise on one of my mills. I bought it for Enco back in the 2000’s.


----------



## Gaffer

IamNotImportant said:


> Have been considering the GMT, for the 833tv, 5 inch or 6? You know that they say that bigger is better, but there can be too much of a good thing


I'm not familiar with your mill. The PM website shows both 4 & 5" vises if I'm reading it correctly. 1" size increases in machining vises make for substantial differences, so choose carefully. Others with more familiarity with your mill, or PM, can guide you better. Best of luck!


----------



## Aukai

This is a 4" vs 6" on a 9" table. I left the pictures full size so it's easier to see.


----------



## buffdan

Off Facebook. $200  Like new


----------



## Aukai

This will be my new addition, I'm selling the 1340GT. I got the 2nd to last one before the Nov. price increase. My total wait time up till now was 3 weeks including the installation of accessories, and now another week or so to ship it here.


----------



## great white

Bought a few weeks ago and showed up today:



 6” rotary table. Glad I didn’t go bigger as this one will just fit the table nicely. Without the vice installed that is…


----------



## IamNotImportant

that's something else i will need to get, a rotary table


----------



## GoceKU

Recently i've been switching all the cars to winter tires. But doing some upgrades as well, one of them is getting better centre caps. Peugeot recently changed its logo so i got them in black and silver and got an oem set for the rims that i'm running on the 607.


----------



## ttabbal

great white said:


> Bought a few weeks ago and showed up today:
> 
> View attachment 423930
> 
> 6” rotary table. Glad I didn’t go bigger as this one will just fit the table nicely. Without the vice installed that is…



It's probably not as precise, but my little rotary fits in my DX6. I ran an indicator over the table and it was within 2 thou. Good enough for the simpler stuff. If I were to do something that needs real precision or heavy cuts, I would mount it to the table directly. Of course, "heavy cuts" on a 6" RT is likely not all that heavy in the grand scheme of things.


----------



## Christianstark

Procured 2 sets over the past few weeks, but cheaply organized today during conference calls with re-claimed packing foam. Ran out of room for the rounds.

Cut 1 and Cut 2


----------



## G-ManBart

Added some SCLCR boring bars and a couple of BXA holders for them....I can't seem to get enough tool holders!  Also bought a Mitutoyo 2803S-10 indicator from Ideal Precision.  Next up...another NOGA stand, solid carbide boring bars, rotary table, etc, etc, etc


----------



## Bi11Hudson

ttabbal said:


> It's probably not as precise, but my little rotary fits in my DX6. I ran an indicator over the table and it was within 2 thou. Good enough for the simpler stuff. If I were to do something that needs real precision or heavy cuts, I would mount it to the table directly. Of course, "heavy cuts" on a 6" RT is likely not all that heavy in the grand scheme of things.


It struck me (not too hard, it didn't hurt) reading the "fuss" about rotary tables here that an indexing head is just a rotary table with fraction plates added. A rotary table has a taller gear ratio, sure. I have one that is 72:1(?) that is fitted with fraction plates as a retrofit. A dividing head usually has a lower gear ratio of 40:1, making the calculations easier. But the rotary table with a fraction plate fitted does do a larger number of divisions. 

The 72:1 is a divisor to 360, making degree divisions simpler. With the addition of fraction plates, it divides by the fraction of the plates rather than degrees. Is this information really useful? I doubt it, I am just in a "strange thoughts" mode and expressin myself in public.

.


----------



## WobblyHand

This came in today.  Now I need to find some inserts.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

let me have a look, I might have some..


----------



## mmcmdl

mattthemuppet2 said:


> let me have a look, I might have some..


I'm sure I do also if he needs them .   


WobblyHand said:


> This came in today. Now I need to find some inserts.


Hey Wobbly , that takes the top notch inserts ?


----------



## WobblyHand

mmcmdl said:


> I'm sure I do also if he needs them .
> 
> Hey Wobbly , that takes the top notch inserts ?


I hope so!


----------



## mmcmdl

WobblyHand said:


> I hope so!


I'll be down the basement for the next few nights , I'll route threw the stuff . I'm sure I have a couple boxes of Kennemetals that would fit your bar .


----------



## mmcmdl

LOBF . ( located on bedroom floor ) I'm sure they've breeded so I'll keep looking .


----------



## BGHansen

mmcmdl said:


> LOBF . ( located on bedroom floor ) I'm sure they've breeded so I'll keep looking .


If the inserts are a rattlin', don't come a tattlin'?


----------



## Mill Lee farm

G-ManBart said:


> Also bought a Mitutoyo 2803S-10 indicator from Ideal Precision.



Hey! Small world!
Is it used? Your dial face seems to have less wear than mine. 
Nice unit right???


----------



## G-ManBart

Mill Lee farm said:


> Hey! Small world!
> Is it used? Your dial face seems to have less wear than mine.
> Nice unit right???


Yep, it's one of their used/refurbished units and I'm really happy how clean it is.  I haven't done much with it, but it seems really nice.  I'm probably going to try it out for real tomorrow but it's definitely an upgrade from the cheap indicators I've been using.  I bought a new Mitutoyo 513-442-10T test indicator a few weeks ago and that spoiled me!  

The funny thing is it's marked 2803S-10 and that's what I ordered, but it has a flat back, so no lug, which should be a 2803SB-10.  I called to make sure I didn't mess up on the order and they confirmed it was the wrong unit.  They offered to send me a lug back that I could replace myself, or a shipping label for an exchange, but I think I'm just going to keep it.  I can use the stem or the dovetail mount on my NOGA, so it's really a non-issue.  I'm pretty sure I'll be buying more stuff from them!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

mattthemuppet2 said:


> let me have a look, I might have some..


Sorry, the only small ones I have are right hand, not the left hand inserts (N2L) your bar takes


----------



## erikmannie

I have stopped buying stuff! However, my son bought this cute little male English Bulldog. He is 3 weeks old in this picture we took when we went to meet him today. He has to stay with his mother for another 5 weeks.













I bought a lot of abrasives using my brother’s money for his project that I am working on. Twenty quantity 4-1/2” poly strip discs + 100 quantity 5” sanding discs for $98. This is enough abrasives for 6 hours of sanding, so apparently using abrasives costs about $16/hour.


----------



## IamNotImportant

hman said:


> A couple years ago I bought a Tegara vise from Shars.   See post #7 at:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kurt vs. Glacern vs. Homge
> 
> 
> I'll be purchasing a new vise in the future for my PM835S. Haven't decided between a 5" or 6" yet. I'm thinking the 6" might be a little too big for my mill, but then again, I haven't received my mill just yet.   Is it worth paying a very large premium for Kurt vises? I hear good things about...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hobby-machinist.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's worked out very well for me.


believe that i am going to try one of these... eventually will go to a fixture plate on the table


----------



## Shotgun

Yesterday, I introduced a new mill to the shop today.  An Enco clone of a Bridgeport.  The variable speed mechanism is broken due to unknown reasons, and the downfeed doesn't work due to missing parts.  But, what can you expect for $1500.  The tables seem to be really tight, with the barest of backlash.
Today, I bought an extra head that looks like it has all the missing parts.  Another $250.


----------



## TorontoBuilder

ambitious


----------



## erikmannie

Shotgun said:


> Yesterday, I introduced a new mill to the shop today.  An Enco clone of a Bridgeport.  The variable speed mechanism is broken due to unknown reasons, and the downfeed doesn't work due to missing parts.  But, what can you expect for $1500.  The tables seem to be really tight, with the barest of backlash.
> Today, I bought an extra head that looks like it has all the missing parts.  Another $250.



As you know, that machine will be a workhorse once you get it going.


----------



## Shotgun

Doing a bit of cleanup, and going over what's missing.  I get the impression that this lathe was bought for parts.  There are several pieces missing, but what's left seems to be in pristine condition.  The varispeed seems to need nothing more than the worm gear and handle.  The flaking on the Y ways looks untouched.


----------



## mmcmdl

Continuing the clean up of the bedroom floor .   

4 complete sets of GearWrench and Williams SAE and metric flexhead and regular ratchet wrenches . Just cuz ya never have enough .


----------



## mmcmdl

More junk off the floor to the basement .


----------



## mmcmdl

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Sorry, the only small ones I have are right hand, not the left hand inserts (N2L) your bar takes


Funny . When I look at the bar and look at the inserts , it looks like it uses NT2R inserts . But as usual , I may have my rights and lefts mixed up or my box is marked wrong .


----------



## mmcmdl

Checked all my tooling , that bar does take an R full insert . That's the same hand bar I lent you isn't it ? It may only make a difference in the smaller pitch inserts now that I think about it .


----------



## WobblyHand

mmcmdl said:


> Funny . When I look at the bar and look at the inserts , it looks like it uses NT2R inserts . But as usual , I may have my rights and lefts mixed up or my box is marked wrong .


This reminds me of IR and ER tooling.  Confusing.
The insert you showed looks like it will fit.

Yes, this bar is the same handedness as the one you lent me.  Labeled as NEL2, which should be left hand.  Cuts on far side of internal bore.


----------



## WobblyHand

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Sorry, the only small ones I have are right hand, not the left hand inserts (N2L) your bar takes


Can you show a picture of them?  Boring or threading inserts can be confusing, or at least they are confusing to me.  Since this is a LH bar, and it is for internal threading, I think it takes RH inserts.  With the business end of the insert facing right, the notch will be like \.


----------



## IamNotImportant

just ordered one of these, should be here on thursday


----------



## IamNotImportant

wondering if i should order one of these or not


----------



## WobblyHand

IamNotImportant said:


> wondering if i should order one of these or not
> 
> View attachment 424506


You making money with it, or just a hobby?  Bet you can find something less expensive.  Or make one with your mill.


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> You making money with it, or just a hobby?  Bet you can find something less expensive.  Or make one with your mill.


will be making stuff to sell yes, pointed at a niche audience. But i had considered making one


----------



## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> wondering if i should order one of these or not
> 
> View attachment 424506


I was going to say that a fellow forum member sells them as well... until I saw the size (Measurements: 34" x 12" x 0.95")... that one is larger than the ones he has...  His is 10"x22"









						10"x 22" Deluxe Fixture Kit | Dayton CNC Products
					

We are pleased to offer our new 10"x 22" fixture plate kit. The plate has 474 holes threaded for 3/8-16 and 144 holes for 1/4" dowel pins. The 3/8" threaded holes have been counterbored on the back to help with blowing out chips after a machining operation has been performed. The kit also comes...




					www.daytoncncproducts.com
				




As to needing one... I have a small one and it is great.  But I went on the inexpensive side for one...


----------



## WobblyHand

IamNotImportant said:


> will be making stuff to sell yes, pointed at a niche audience. But i had considered making one


Does it come with extra tooling, like clamps?  Might look at Dayton CNC, they are or used to be a sponsor of HM.  Smaller plates but might be useful for you.


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> I was going to say that a fellow forum member sells them as well... until I saw the size (Measurements: 34" x 12" x 0.95")... that one is larger than the ones he has...  His is 10"x22"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10"x 22" Deluxe Fixture Kit | Dayton CNC Products
> 
> 
> We are pleased to offer our new 10"x 22" fixture plate kit. The plate has 474 holes threaded for 3/8-16 and 144 holes for 1/4" dowel pins. The 3/8" threaded holes have been counterbored on the back to help with blowing out chips after a machining operation has been performed. The kit also comes...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.daytoncncproducts.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As to needing one... I have a small one and it is great.  But I went on the inexpensive side for one...


for a lot of the stuff that i want to do, that size very well may work, i have book marked it


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> Does it come with extra tooling, like clamps?  Might look at Dayton CNC, they are or used to be a sponsor of HM.  Smaller plates but might be useful for you.


no extra stuff, they do sell modular vises, but i have seen some on the tube that were copies, might go with that


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> Does it come with extra tooling, like clamps?  Might look at Dayton CNC, they are or used to be a sponsor of HM.  Smaller plates but might be useful for you.


take that back, yes you can get accessories for it..... duh


----------



## FOMOGO

That's a nice looking vise. How does the .0005 accuracy compare to Kurt? Took a quick look at Kurt, but didn't see that spec. Mike


----------



## IamNotImportant

FOMOGO said:


> That's a nice looking vise. How does the .0005 accuracy compare to Kurt? Took a quick look at Kurt, but didn't see that spec. Mike


it is supposed to be a faithful reproduckion of the D688


----------



## BGHansen

IamNotImportant said:


> wondering if i should order one of these or not


I have a Saunder's fixture plate on my Tormach.  It was on the mill when I bought it.  Probably just me but I don't use it to its full potential and could do without it.  But I'm not a production shop.

Bruce


----------



## IamNotImportant

BGHansen said:


> I have a Saunder's fixture plate on my Tormach.  It was on the mill when I bought it.  Probably just me but I don't use it to its full potential and could do without it.  But I'm not a production shop.
> 
> Bruce


well, the largest part will have some length to it, i was thinking of using the plate with modular vises to hold that part, when i have to mill my holes and such on it


----------



## IamNotImportant

BGHansen said:


> I have a Saunder's fixture plate on my Tormach.  It was on the mill when I bought it.  Probably just me but I don't use it to its full potential and could do without it.  But I'm not a production shop.
> 
> Bruce


won't be a big produckion shop either, but i was thinking that it might be easier, but then again, i can just use jacks to keep the thing still while one end is in the vise


----------



## ChazzC

IamNotImportant said:


> wondering if i should order one of these or not
> 
> View attachment 424506


I got the “Micro Mill” ($75) size plates along with one of their Hobby Modular Vises & a handful of extras for use on my Mini Mill for holding larger parts - it fits nicely next to my 3” vise and gives options that my plain fixture plates don’t. I will admit that I have only used it once, and while it may not pay for itself it did make holding the part a lot easier.

Based on the descriptions on their website and what they show in their YouTube videos, the intended use is a full time fixture plate for CNC mills (they recommend using dielectric compound between the plate & mill table to prevent corrosion, something that isn’t necessary if it’s only in place sometimes).


----------



## IamNotImportant

ChazzC said:


> I got the “Micro Mill” ($75) size plates along with one of their Hobby Modular Vises & a handful of extras for use on my Mini Mill for holding larger parts - it fits nicely next to my 3” vise and gives options that my plain fixture plates don’t. I will admit that I have only used it once, and while it may not pay for itself it did make holding the part a lot easier.
> 
> Based on the descriptions on their website and what they show in their YouTube videos, the intended use is a full time fixture plate for CNC mills (they recommend using dielectric compound between the plate & mill table to prevent corrosion, something that isn’t necessary if it’s only in place sometimes).


yeah, aluminum and steel don't cohabitate to well with each other


----------



## ChazzC

IamNotImportant said:


> yeah, aluminum and steel don't cohabitate to well with each other


Particularly when the interface is continually immersed in electrolyte.


----------



## MyLilMule

Shotgun said:


> Yesterday, I introduced a new mill to the shop today.  An Enco clone of a Bridgeport.  The variable speed mechanism is broken due to unknown reasons, and the downfeed doesn't work due to missing parts.  But, what can you expect for $1500.  The tables seem to be really tight, with the barest of backlash.
> Today, I bought an extra head that looks like it has all the missing parts.  Another $250.


Skip the VFD and get a rotary phase converter. Some very well respected BP rebuilders (i.e. Tim Besmer, Sr.) will tell you that variable speed heads don't really like VFDs very much.

There' nothing there that can't be fixed. I bought a BP and completely tore it down, knowing nothing at all. If I can do it, surely you can.





__





						Loading…
					





					www.youtube.com


----------



## pontiac428

Reading about people worrying until their hair falls out over the 0.25 volt potential between aluminum and steel when immersed in an electrolyte is one of the most entertaining things to do on the internet.  It's as common as pictures of cats.


----------



## IamNotImportant

pontiac428 said:


> Reading about people worrying until their hair falls out over the 0.25 volt potential between aluminum and steel when immersed in an electrolyte is one of the most entertaining things to do on the internet.  It's as common as pictures of cats.


for one, once you learn my sense of humor, you'd know that i was being "sarcastic"....


----------



## Shotgun

MyLilMule said:


> Skip the VFD and get a rotary phase converter. Some very well respected BP rebuilders (i.e. Tim Besmer, Sr.) will tell you that variable speed heads don't really like VFDs very much.
> 
> There' nothing there that can't be fixed. I bought a BP and completely tore it down, knowing nothing at all. If I can do it, surely you can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loading…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.youtube.com


@mysterysniper , you got me in trouble last night.  I was supposed to be watching a Halloween movie with the wife.  But, I got caught up in your videos instead.  Your video is much better than the ones from HW.  In HW's videos he is ripping and banging and tossing parts around in an echo chambers that is to bright. . . very much like a video I might make.  Lots of distraction, and you can't really see what's going on.  Your video is calm, engaging and clear.  I feel like I'm ready to tear these two heads down and build up one good one.  Thank you for sharing.


----------



## ChazzC

IamNotImportant said:


> for one, once you learn my sense of humor, you'd know that i was being "sarcastic"....


I wasn't: I've seen reactions between SS and high-performance painted steel wall panels that caused the bottom 6" of 30' of steel panels to literally rot away within six months. The problems was 1) dissimilar metals (yes, SS & Steel are dissimilar enough to cause a reaction and both materials being wet for 12 – 16 hours a day with (cold) ozonated  water. The solution was to cut off the rotted panels 6" above the rot, marry-up new sections of panels & replace the SS channel at the bottom with painted steel: problem gone (and a lawsuit settled). BTW, my firm did not specify the materials, we were called in for a forensic evaluate & make a recommendation.


----------



## pontiac428

Stainless has a much higher potential against aluminum than steel does, because stainless is full of nickel and chromium in addition to iron and carbon.  In an immersed environment you have an electrolyte bridge- if anyone ever tries starting a car on a battery without electrolyte, let me know how it works out, because that's all the galvanic field density you're going to get out of a dry fit assembly.  Ozonated water may as well be high pressure O2 heated to plasma.  Ozone is a metastable radical that can react in a number of ways.  That is a specialty application that requires engineering if I ever saw one.

But I wouldn't hesitate to put a stainless bolt through a cast aluminum manifold against a cast iron cylinder head with bronze anti-seize and the end threads penetrating the water jacket, because by the time anything happens naturally the motor will be long since worn out.


----------



## IamNotImportant

pontiac428 said:


> Stainless has a much higher potential against aluminum than steel does, because stainless is full of nickel and chromium in addition to iron and carbon.  In an immersed environment you have an electrolyte bridge- if anyone ever tries starting a car on a battery without electrolyte, let me know how it works out, because that's all the galvanic field density you're going to get out of a dry fit assembly.  Ozonated water may as well be high pressure O2 heated to plasma.  Ozone is a metastable radical that can react in a number of ways.  That is a specialty application that requires engineering if I ever saw one.
> 
> But I wouldn't hesitate to put a stainless bolt through a cast aluminum manifold against a cast iron cylinder head with bronze anti-seize and the end threads penetrating the water jacket, because by the time anything happens naturally the motor will be long since worn out.


This is what i have always heard, it happens, but they never explain the veracity at which it will "develop"


----------



## pontiac428

Ok, I admit it can happen.  As someone who has torn down a lot of pontiac engines, there is a mixed metal sandwich where there should be a water pump and timing cover.  Steel water baffle, steel hardware, iron block, iron water pump casting, and a cast aluminum cover to hold it all together.  On 30 year old engines, sometimes parts can't be reused because of pitting, but what (performance) engine has a 30-year service life?  Buy the time a california car was taken off the road in decades past, the mileage on the odometer was the culprit, not the galvanically affected parts.


----------



## wachuko

Ordered some stainless steel material for two projects... 

1) 1/2" Thickness 316 / 316L Stainless Steel Square Bar 0.5" x 0.5" x 12" Length - for making a couple of can/bottle cap openers
1) 1-11/16" Diameter 316 Stainless Steel Round Rod 1.6875” x 8.125” Length - for making a base for a razor


----------



## IamNotImportant

The vise arrived today, so far i have to say, i am quite pleased with the fit and finish, i will take pics later. The slot keys were too big, so i will have to whiddle em down some


----------



## IamNotImportant

Ok as promised: Some pics

Tegara Vise: 320.00 before taxes and shipping





Fowler Square: 39.00 dollars on sale.


----------



## francist

Okay seriously, how could I resist buying this?

I already have about two-dozen garlic cloves in the ground for next year but I was in the hardware store picking up a furnace filter this afternoon and walked past this. Transylvanian garlic! And a soft-neck variety to boot! 




Of course I’ll have to wait until my next day off to plant it — which is…. wait for it…..Halloween!! 

-frank


----------



## WobblyHand

francist said:


> Okay seriously, how could I resist buying this?
> 
> I already have about two-dozen garlic cloves in the ground for next year but I was in the hardware store picking up a furnace filter this afternoon and walked past this. Transylvanian garlic! And a soft-neck variety to boot!
> 
> View attachment 424788
> 
> 
> Of course I’ll have to wait until my next day off to plant it — which is…. wait for it…..Halloween!!
> 
> -frank


What's the advantage of soft neck garlic, vs hard neck?  I have to plant my garlic soon.  

Last year I planted hard neck.  So this year, yes, I will plant hard neck, because that is what I have.  Saved the biggest heads from this year to plant.


----------



## francist

WobblyHand said:


> What's the advantage of soft neck garlic, vs hard neck?


Well the soft neck is easier to get your (vampire) teeth into, no?

Okay seriously now, I don’t know that there is any. I planted all hardneck this year but that was just just by coincidence. Maybe the soft neck breaks apart easier, I really don’t know.


----------



## WobblyHand

francist said:


> Well the soft neck is easier to get your (vampire) teeth into, no?
> 
> Okay seriously now, I don’t know that there is any. I planted all hardneck this year but that was just just by coincidence. Maybe the soft neck breaks apart easier, I really don’t know.


The hard necks are kind of hard to separate the cloves.  Well anyways, I have 7 big fat heads to plant, plus some slightly smaller heads if I can fit them in.


----------



## francist

Here @WobblyHand, everything I didn’t know about hard or soft necks…









						Grow the Right Garlic for Your Needs
					

Learn the difference between hardneck and softneck garlic to decide which type you should plant in your garden.




					www.thespruce.com


----------



## WobblyHand

Looks like I'm in zone 5b.  The hardneck garlic thrived and I'm still eating scapes, so that's good enough for me.  I'm amazed at how long the scapes have lasted.  Still have some in the fridge from July!


----------



## Steve-F

Well, it's more like what am I going to buy when I get home Tried to go to work in the 4 Runner this morning and it cranked over for 3 seconds and the battery said it was done...had to resort to a 56 year old back up ride


----------



## rwdenney

For the South Bend 14-1/2 that I have recently bought, in advance of moving it to my shop, have acquired:

1. Shars CXA toolpost, wedge style, after you guys told me BXA would be too small.

2. Shars 301 CXA tool holders (4). In them, I have mounted right-hand and left-hand 3/4"-shank CNMG insert holders, an HSS bit ground for right-hand turning that is 3/4" (and would never have fit in the lantern post and was thus unused), and an insert holder for SER16 threading inserts.

2.5 (I forgot this one)--Shars cut-off tool holder, with a cut-off bar that uses GTN cut-off/grooving inserts, plus a box of those.

2.75 (I should have forgotten this one)--a knurling tool that came with the kit that has one redeeming quality--it holds a bit on the opposite end. I will use that for various small (3/8" and 1/2") HSS tooling that came with the lathe, and there is a LOT of that.

3. 302 tool holders (2). I will install a holder for facing that turns the CNMG inserts on the broad angle. The other will be for various smaller boring bars that came with the lathe.

4. Shars boring-bar holder, for the good 3/4" boring bar that came with the lathe. It uses ground boring bits, either carbide or HSS; it has a sharp HSS bit in it right now.

5. The 4C collet drawbar and collet sleeve that was missing from the lathe tooling. I paid too much for it, but these are not exactly common for the old, small-spindle 14-1/2.

6. A starter set of old Hardinge 4C collets, to which I will at least need to add a 3/8 and a 1/2 for specific duties in the fullness of time. These will be needed for drilling precise holes in things held in place in #8, and for holding end mills.

7. A gallon can of WD40, which I use for cleaning. A gallon ain't gonna be enough, but it's a start.

8. South Bend milling attachment, which I am reasonably sure is for a 16" lathe, but which I am even more sure I can make work. It is missing the mounting dovetail, so I'll have to make that. I know these are less good than even a cheap mill, but I will use it for drilling holes, facing small parts, and machining the T-nut that comes with that toolpost 

9. Clamp for the saddle clamp--I found the square-head bolt, and I found a shop-made part made from a piece of 1/2" CRS plate, but the original part looks stronger. The Ebay ad didn't specify what lathe it was for, and I went on  a hunch--but once I wire-brushed the crust off of it, I found "14-1/2" stamped into it 

10. Micrometer stop that came with the clamp, which I didn't need. I'll compare it with the one on the lathe, once that is brought back to serviceability (it's frozen up now--probably it has never been used), and use whichever works best. The micrometer stop goes well with the milled attachment--after each cut, loose the stop the desired amount, unclamp the saddle, move the saddle against the stop, clamp it down, mill. 

11. A new brass nut for the cross-slide, just because. The lathe shows little wear, but that brass nut is brass for a reason.

12. Ilion felt kit for the 14-1/2.

13. A used Do-All (Royal) live center with a pipe adapter that slips over the center. I was expecting crunchy bearings but it's fine, at least for now.

14. A 12" diameter  by 7/8" steel fixture plate. The lathe came with a shop-made 8" steel fixture plate that I will use as a spindle adapter for this one. I doubt it will be true, but facing it true will be a good project. There are no t-slots, but I can drill and tap holes where needed in it--it already has some.

15. Various and sundry CNMG tooling, including some targeted to steel, some for stainless, and some for aluminum.

16. Machine skates for the move.

17. 2x12 and 4x4 lumber plus various fasteners for making a skid that will sit on those machine skates.

18. Pricey 3M DP420 toughened epoxy for repairing the broken power-feed shifter.

Some of this may have been ill-advised, including the carbide insert tooling, given the relatively low top speed of this lathe. But all of it is commonly useful, so if I have to change to tool holders for inserts with sharper points or positive rake, what I have bought will find a good home somewhere.

I was told that I would spend as much in tooling and fixtures as I spent on the lathe, and that isn't far from the mark.

Rick "budget blown, but WTH" Denney


----------



## wachuko

rwdenney said:


> For the South Bend 14-1/2 that I have recently bought, in advance of moving it to my shop, have acquired:
> 
> 1. Shars CXA toolpost, wedge style, after you guys told me BXA would be too small.
> 
> 2. Shars 301 CXA tool holders (4). In them, I have mounted right-hand and left-hand 3/4"-shank CNMG insert holders, an HSS bit ground for right-hand turning that is 3/4" (and would never have fit in the lantern post and was thus unused), and an insert holder for SER16 threading inserts.
> 
> 2.5 (I forgot this one)--Shars cut-off tool holder, with a cut-off bar that uses GTN cut-off/grooving inserts, plus a box of those.
> 
> 2.75 (I should have forgotten this one)--a knurling tool that came with the kit that has one redeeming quality--it holds a bit on the opposite end. I will use that for various small (3/8" and 1/2") HSS tooling that came with the lathe, and there is a LOT of that.
> 
> 3. 302 tool holders (2). I will install a holder for facing that turns the CNMG inserts on the broad angle. The other will be for various smaller boring bars that came with the lathe.
> 
> 4. Shars boring-bar holder, for the good 3/4" boring bar that came with the lathe. It uses ground boring bits, either carbide or HSS; it has a sharp HSS bit in it right now.
> 
> 5. The 4C collet drawbar and collet sleeve that was missing from the lathe tooling. I paid too much for it, but these are not exactly common for the old, small-spindle 14-1/2.
> 
> 6. A starter set of old Hardinge 4C collets, to which I will at least need to add a 3/8 and a 1/2 for specific duties in the fullness of time. These will be needed for drilling precise holes in things held in place in #8, and for holding end mills.
> 
> 7. A gallon can of WD40, which I use for cleaning. A gallon ain't gonna be enough, but it's a start.
> 
> 8. South Bend milling attachment, which I am reasonably sure is for a 16" lathe, but which I am even more sure I can make work. It is missing the mounting dovetail, so I'll have to make that. I know these are less good than even a cheap mill, but I will use it for drilling holes, facing small parts, and machining the T-nut that comes with that toolpost
> 
> 9. Clamp for the saddle clamp--I found the square-head bolt, and I found a shop-made part made from a piece of 1/2" CRS plate, but the original part looks stronger. The Ebay ad didn't specify what lathe it was for, and I went on  a hunch--but once I wire-brushed the crust off of it, I found "14-1/2" stamped into it
> 
> 10. Micrometer stop that came with the clamp, which I didn't need. I'll compare it with the one on the lathe, once that is brought back to serviceability (it's frozen up now--probably it has never been used), and use whichever works best. The micrometer stop goes well with the milled attachment--after each cut, loose the stop the desired amount, unclamp the saddle, move the saddle against the stop, clamp it down, mill.
> 
> 11. A new brass nut for the cross-slide, just because. The lathe shows little wear, but that brass nut is brass for a reason.
> 
> 12. Ilion felt kit for the 14-1/2.
> 
> 13. A used Do-All (Royal) live center with a pipe adapter that slips over the center. I was expecting crunchy bearings but it's fine, at least for now.
> 
> 14. A 12" diameter  by 7/8" steel fixture plate. The lathe came with a shop-made 8" steel fixture plate that I will use as a spindle adapter for this one. I doubt it will be true, but facing it true will be a good project. There are no t-slots, but I can drill and tap holes where needed in it--it already has some.
> 
> 15. Various and sundry CNMG tooling, including some targeted to steel, some for stainless, and some for aluminum.
> 
> 16. Machine skates for the move.
> 
> 17. 2x12 and 4x4 lumber plus various fasteners for making a skid that will sit on those machine skates.
> 
> 18. Pricey 3M DP420 toughened epoxy for repairing the broken power-feed shifter.
> 
> Some of this may have been ill-advised, including the carbide insert tooling, given the relatively low top speed of this lathe. But all of it is commonly useful, so if I have to change to tool holders for inserts with sharper points or positive rake, what I have bought will find a good home somewhere.
> 
> I was told that I would spend as much in tooling and fixtures as I spent on the lathe, and that isn't far from the mark.
> 
> Rick "budget blown, but WTH" Denney


I always look forward to your posts just to read the ever-changing signature   

In my case... because of this thread The Eifel Plierench...what most people have been missing!  I ended up bidding on this one... should be here in a few days


----------



## rwdenney

wachuko said:


> I always look forward to your posts just to read the ever-changing signature
> 
> In my case... because of this thread The Eifel Plierench...what most people have been missing!  I ended up bidding on this one... should be here in a few days
> 
> View attachment 424829


This is a very dangerous thread.

Rick "Yup. Bought one." Denney


----------



## bfk

Good day at the auction.
1. Half a dozen tape measures for $15, never can find one when I want one. No pic, you probably know what they look like.
2. ”Everything on the shelf” for $75. Got about 70 pounds of useable 6061, mostly smallish pieces, but I have Sherline gear, so that’s fine. Plus enough UHMW to build a small house. OK, a very small house. Two chunks of Delrin, one 12”x10”x0.75, one about 6x8x2, and a few little bits. A metric crap ton of mystery plastic, probably 40 to 50 pounds. Heavy like Delrin, but unlabeled. Plus the inevitable junk, old rejects, mangled pieces, pieces that were finished, but no idea what they are. I’m betting you definitely know what that lot looked like.
3. Jacob’s 14N, with strange heat marks at the tips of the jaws, but for $20, I couldn’t resist. Opens and closes OK. It does look a little oversized lying on the table of my Sherline mill, so it may find a new home. 
4. Four small Kennametal carbide boring bars. $15 for all four. All take CDHB inserts, and each bar has an insert installed, plus 5 spares. Does everyone know something I don’t, or did I get real lucky.
Was worth driving two hours each way, plus I had dinner with my son, always a treat.


----------



## DLF

Carmex 20x20 Drop Head threading tool.

Installed upside down allows for threading with the chuck in reverse.

Have not tryed it yet, but the insert aligns beautifully with the chuck centerline, so it should be fine.
	

		
			
		

		
	




Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## erikmannie

I only buy consumables now. I bought:

10 quantity purple (i.e. 60 grit), 4-1/2” poly strip discs,




a Made in USA MB5 (solid carbide) boring bar to replace the one I broke *the first time I used it* (still kicking myself for using a micro boring bar on a 5/8”ish hole),




and a selection of small Made in USA solid carbide drills:
3 quantity 1/8”,
4 quantity 3/16”,
3 quantity 1/4”.


----------



## Aukai

I heard some mumbling when I was walking past the mill, and stopped to listen, nothing. I said if your going to say something, say it to my face or shut up. Then I clearly heard "Your only spending money on the new lathe!!!" Meet Haimer, and Blake....


----------



## Dhal22

Clamping kit.


----------



## FOMOGO

They are most definitely consumable. I've found they don't last anywhere as long as a good flap disc, and have crossed them off my list . Mike



erikmannie said:


> I only buy consumables now. I bought:
> 
> 10 quantity purple (i.e. 60 grit), 4-1/2” poly strip discs,


----------



## IamNotImportant

Dhal22 said:


> Clamping kit.
> 
> View attachment 425003


you get that from All Industrial?


----------



## Dhal22

IamNotImportant said:


> you get that from All Industrial?




Amazon.....


----------



## erikmannie

I bought these for a job. I was immediately reimbursed so I didn’t cost me anything:

10 quantity 60 grit, 4-1/2” poly strip discs:




1 respirator for sanding SS:




1 pair of spare filters:




40 quantity 180 grit (together with 11 quantity 120 grit) 4-1/2” flap discs:




150 quantity 40 grit 5” sanding discs:




The whole shebang was only $178 because all of the above is economical (i.e. PRC import) grade.


----------



## Firstram

David’s book 




A like new 14N for $47 







Difficult to work it very hard mounted with a #1MT!


----------



## wachuko

My brother gave me this… he does not know where it came from but figured I could find a use for it…


----------



## erikmannie

I have not seen my MT3 dead center ever since I took it to my friend Ken P.’s house several months ago to use in his Logan 10” swing lathe’s spindle. I must have left it there or lost it since then. All I know it that it is definitely not my shop at this point!

I bought a replacement, used Made in China MT3 dead center which set me back $16.64 including tax & shipping:




Please ignore the MT4 dead center & sleeve:


----------



## ChazzC

erikmannie said:


> I have not seen my MT3 dead center ever since I took it to my friend Ken P.’s house several months ago to use in his Logan 10” swing lathe’s spindle. I must have left it there or lost it since then. All I know it that it is definitely not my shop at this point!



Don’t worry, it will turn up tomorrow!


----------



## WhyW8

Ordered some items Friday -- They arrived today..


----------



## Dhal22

ChazzC said:


> Don’t worry, it will turn up tomorrow!




That's the best way to find a tool.


----------



## erikmannie

My friend Cliff S. just brought me these as a gift because I have helped him out a few times. 




I also bought these to hold me over until my big supply of coarse belts comes in:


----------



## WobblyHand

erikmannie said:


> My friend Cliff S. just brought me these as a gift because I have helped him out a few times.
> 
> View attachment 425356
> 
> 
> I also bought these to hold me over until my big supply of coarse belts comes in:
> 
> View attachment 425357


Word of warning on the shop towels.  These things are great, but, wash them by hand in a separate container!  Mine ran.  Like blood in a bucket.  If you value your whitey-tighties, don't wash them with ANY of your clothes, or even in your washing machine because it will get red!


----------



## ChazzC

WobblyHand said:


> Word of warning on the shop towels.  These things are great, but, wash them by hand in a separate container!  Mine ran.  Like blood in a bucket.  If you value your whitey-tighties, don't wash them with ANY of your clothes, or even in your washing machine because it will get red!


Ditto: I always wash shop towels separately (at a Laundromat if possible) because of the stuff that’s on them (if they’re really grungy they go in the trash). After many years of washings I have two colors of towels: dull red and pink (used to be white).


----------



## Aukai

I had a lady that washed her husbands shop towels like those in gasoline to get most of the oil out(repair shop) then go to the laundromat to wash them. Sometime in the cycle she opened the lid, and the interrupter button must have sparked, boom. Her face was sunburned, no eyebrows, or lashes, and her bangs were gone. I thought it was kinda rude of her to be doing that for the next person who used the machine.


----------



## pontiac428

WobblyHand said:


> Word of warning on the shop towels.  These things are great, but, wash them by hand in a separate container!  Mine ran.  Like blood in a bucket.  If you value your whitey-tighties, don't wash them with ANY of your clothes, or even in your washing machine because it will get red!


Also, if you see me leaving the laundromat, don't use any of the five machines I just used.  Else your socks turn red and smell like ATF mixed with mineral spirits.  It's truly horrifying.


----------



## WobblyHand

pontiac428 said:


> Also, if you see me leaving the laundromat, don't use any of the five machines I just used.  Else your socks turn red and smell like ATF mixed with mineral spirits.  It's truly horrifying.


So noted.  

These towels really do bleed off their color - a lot.  Even at a second and third washing.  First wash the water was bright red, like using a dye.


----------



## Elliot Grace

MrDan said:


> Yeah, it's way bigger than I really need, but c'mon, a hundred bucks!


Mine came buckshee from the local scrap metal joint. I didn't need it but the price was right!


----------



## Aukai

Why even buy red anymore?








						white shop towels in Housekeeping and Home Organization Products | eBay
					

Get the best deals for white shop towels at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!



					www.ebay.com


----------



## NCjeeper

Well Matt got me again.


----------



## IamNotImportant

NCjeeper said:


> Well Matt got me again.
> View attachment 425409


how much did the fly cost or was it included in the package?


----------



## NCjeeper

Matt threw it in as a bonus.


----------



## IamNotImportant

NCjeeper said:


> Matt threw it in as a bonus.


a very kind gentleman


----------



## NCjeeper

I have preferred customer status.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

I like to look after my buyers


----------



## brino

Aukai said:


> Why even buy red anymore?


With halloween just passed the market for gallons of red liquids should also settle..... unless someone elects a telekinetic young woman as prom queen as a joke......  
Brian


----------



## Dhal22

mattthemuppet2 said:


> I like to look after my buyers




I'm looking for more.   My big mill is now functioning but I have no tools.   Just a collet adapter and an end mill.   And a vice.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Dhal22 said:


> I'm looking for more.   My big mill is now functioning but I have no tools.   Just a collet adapter and an end mill.   And a vice.


send me a PM, I'm sure I'll be able to find something you'll like


----------



## Gnpenning

Check with your local laundry services for rags.  I used to do some work for one of ours.  The would take shop and bar rags with a hole or two and sale by the bag. Different bag for each. More bar rags by far.   Fairly large garbage bags for $5.  Everytime I was there I would tell them I wanted a couple bags and would take it off the bill.  They would tell me to not to take off the bill and load me up. Nice guys.  

I never worried about cleaning them, just tossed when they were used up.  Going to have to start washing since the new manager is not someone I chose to do business with.  I don't think he will last, but who knows.


----------



## erikmannie

Here’s my weekend:







My brother paid for these because it’s his project. To me, 90 sanding belts is a lot!

Well, time to get started! The stainless isn’t going to sand itself.


----------



## erikmannie

@mattthemuppet2 sold me these: one Made in USA #1 and two Yuasa #2 CXA tool holders for “free plus actual shipping”, or $10. 




This is the best deal that I have ever gotten in my entire life.

Thanks to Matt!


----------



## ChazzC

Gnpenning said:


> Check with your local laundry services for rags.  I used to do some work for one of ours.  The would take shop and bar rags with a hole or two and sale by the bag. Different bag for each. More bar rags by far.   Fairly large garbage bags for $5.  Everytime I was there I would tell them I wanted a couple bags and would take it off the bill.  They would tell me to not to take off the bill and load me up. Nice guys.
> 
> I never worried about cleaning them, just tossed when they were used up.  Going to have to start washing since the new manager is not someone I chose to do business with.  I don't think he will last, but who knows.


I have a bunch of cloth rags that I've accumulated over the years (light red, pink and white – not many pink ones, I learn pretty quick), but I usually use them only when working on machinery since they are now lint-free and don't tear easily. If they're not to grungy I'll wash them, but usually just dispose of them safely.

For general use it's either paper towels or the blue "shop paper towels" on a roll. When these aren't suitable and the job doesn't call for a real rag, I have a box of Scott® Rags in a Box: heavy duty non-woven (i.e., paper) towels that absorb both oil and water and are disposable.

You can also buy cotton flour sack cloths, which are great: soft, lint-free, absorbent; but they cost $1+ each.


----------



## Aukai

Swarf likes Terry, and micro fiber rag


----------



## ChazzC

Aukai said:


> Swarf likes Terry, and micro fiber rag


Which is why I use a brush & vacuum: it doesn’t take much swarf to make a rag unusable & hazardous to handle).


----------



## pontiac428

erikmannie said:


> Well, time to get started! The stainless isn’t going to sand itself


Wow.  You ain't f*#@!ng around, man.  How many Ace Hardware stores did you have to roll over in order to build that stack?  Is all that abrasive more expensive than a well-loved surface grinder?  Maybe not so good for 300 series, but dang.  You got your work cut out for you, Mannie my man.

Hey, you use Aloris CXA right?   PM me your address for another free-for-the-cost-of-shipping toolholder (Aloris made).  The pass around box is hibernating for the winter, and it's overweight already, so it's yours if you want it.  I'll even reblue it and put good grub screws in it.  A good deal just got better, comrade.


----------



## Aukai

I use the cloths for the final wipe down before oiling, it picks up the shiny stuff normal cleaning leaves behind.


----------



## erikmannie

pontiac428 said:


> Wow.  You ain't f*#@!ng around, man.  How many Ace Hardware stores did you have to roll over in order to build that stack?  Is all that abrasive more expensive than a well-loved surface grinder?  Maybe not so good for 300 series, but dang.  You got your work cut out for you, Mannie my man.
> 
> Hey, you use Aloris CXA right?   PM me your address for another free-for-the-cost-of-shipping toolholder (Aloris made).  The pass around box is hibernating for the winter, and it's overweight already, so it's yours if you want it.  I'll even reblue it and put good grub screws in it.  A good deal just got better, comrade.




I asked the Ace employee to special order exactly what I needed, & it was in hand in 3 days. I could have gotten it for about 10% cheaper on eBay, but in this case I did not have time to wait.

I will PM you my info. Thank you for your generous offer.


----------



## TorontoBuilder

Brought home the auction finds today..

We had so many grinding fixtures that I suggested perhaps we sell this linco one... to get some funds towards obtaining the parts missing from the harig grind all no2.

His reaction was like I tried to steal his "precious"





It's a nice punch former, but damn dude chill out.


----------



## TorontoBuilder

TorontoBuilder said:


> Brought home the auction finds today..
> 
> We had so many grinding fixtures that I suggested perhaps we sell this linco one... to get some funds towards obtaining the parts missing from the harig grind all no2.
> 
> His reaction was like I tried to steal his "precious"
> 
> View attachment 425586
> 
> 
> 
> It's a nice punch former, but damn dude chill out.
> 
> View attachment 425587
> 
> 
> View attachment 425588



I also got a pulled muscle or something in my mid chest on the right hand side... not sure what I was lifting that caused that... lots of heavy stuff today like a 12" x 24" sine plate, or a 6" x 18" Forza milling vise. 

No pics yet


----------



## HoboMachinist77

Drill index cabinets $30 bones. Going to clean and hammertone paint them.


----------



## TorontoBuilder

TorontoBuilder said:


> I also got a pulled muscle or something in my mid chest on the right hand side... not sure what I was lifting that caused that... lots of heavy stuff today like a 12" x 24" sine plate, or a 6" x 18" Forza milling vise.
> 
> No pics yet



Also got two box sets of Mitutoyo outside micrometers 0-6 and 6 -12... because we got outbid on the full set in a single box. Combined we got the better deal by far


----------



## Gaffer

I splurged on this Criterion boring head. It replaces my cheap beginner one. It’s in very good condition and the price was quite fair - an accepted offer on eBay. I had been looking for a while and only found ones, usually more expensive, and in worse condition.


----------



## Aukai

Magnetic set up blocks, from Fireballtool. I'm installing new frame rails under the Nova, and needed exact spacing from the old frame rail, perfect...


----------



## TorontoBuilder

Gaffer said:


> I splurged on this Criterion boring head. It replaces my cheap beginner one. It’s in very good condition and the price was quite fair - an accepted offer on eBay. I had been looking for a while and only found ones, usually more expensive, and in worse condition.
> View attachment 425600
> View attachment 425601


we bid on several narex boring heads this week, but others wanted them more. Oh well


----------



## G-ManBart

I have a list of things I wouldn't mind having if the right deal comes along, and one did earlier this week....No. 57 Dumore 3/4hp tool post grinder.  It was at a local auction and looked terrible in the pictures!  Luckily it wasn't far away so I took a drive for the preview day and was able to look at it in person.  As soon as I saw it I knew it would clean up pretty well.  They were using it with a makeshift guard and a diamond wheel for cutting ceramics.  The original guard had never been mounted and the box still had the original, unused factory stones, manual, etc.  It took a couple of hours to clean it up and the only thing left to do is make a T nut to fit my lathe.  I don't expect to use it often, but it's nice to have the option...and for $300 I couldn't pass.  I haven't run one before and I was really surprised how smooth and quiet this grinder is.


----------



## erikmannie

I went old school & went in person to the hardware store around the corner, & special ordered 20 quantity 5-packs of 50 grit, 3” X 18” sanding belts:






						Ace 18 in. L X 3 in. W Aluminum Oxide Sanding Belt 50 Grit Coarse 5 pc - Ace Hardware
					

When it comes to sanding very rough surfaces, or rough flatting of boards nothing beats the power of a sanding belt. The high quality aluminum oxide grain couple with the strong durable cloth backing, makes our belts the perfect tool for removing serious amounts of wood. These sanding belts are...




					www.acehardware.com
				







Each 5-pack is only $6.99!


----------



## Bi11Hudson

A hand cranked straight line sharpening fixture. Probably good for lawn mower blades, etc? The interesting part is a double reduction drive, like an average bench grinding stone but much stouter. More difficult to crank but the grinder runs very fast and is finer than a bench grinder. I see several tools it will work on.



.


----------



## wayback machine

Finally - Broke down, and bought an assortment of METRIC set screws :~)


----------



## great white

Found a Yamaha Thunderace rear swingarm at a decent price:







Thunderace (1997 yzf1000R1) is supposed to be nearly a drop in fro the FJ1200. I had cut down an FZ1 swingarm to fit the FJ:




(fj on top)







Fit and works fine, but a swingarm is something I'd prefer to have factory welds, so I bought the TA arm when it showed up. we'll see how well it fits once it gets here......


----------



## Steve-F

Just scored a Harbor Freight motorcycle lift table with a pump that needs some work for $50!! My back is loving it already just thinking about it


----------



## wachuko

Steve-F said:


> Just scored a Harbor Freight motorcycle lift table with a pump that needs some work for $50!! My back is loving already just thinking about it


Awesome!!

Where is it? Where is it?


Oh, here it is...


----------



## alloy

Just bought this. That damn welding class I'm taking is costing me money 


			https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CBCB4M5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Aukai

Yes, but now your more talented


----------



## IamNotImportant

just ordered a clamp set from Allindustrial, free shipping and 35 bucks off to boot


----------



## WobblyHand

Received a couple of small cast iron flywheels from Martin Model.  Going to try to make a gyroscope for my grandson.  Have no idea how I will make it happen, but have watched Clickspring's video on it.  So have the basic idea.  Clickspring makes it look incredibly easy - he is very artistic. Have a CAD model, but it's kind of crude.  Was kind of fun figuring out how to fuse some of the bodies together to make the wheel.   Had no idea how to model the curved spokes, so just modeled the straight spoke wheel.  Hopefully I can make the actual gyro a little nicer than what is shown.





Ordered some thick wall 6061 tubing for the ring, and have some 1/4" diameter brass for the bearings.  Maybe later - if I can get it to work ok, I'll order some bearing bronze rod (544?).  It's only a cone bearing, so we aren't talking about anything fancy.


----------



## pontiac428

Bronze?  No.  Double roller full-component ceramic is what a real man's gyroscope runs on. 

And finally I have an answer to what a used starter is good for... starting a gyro!


----------



## WobblyHand

pontiac428 said:


> Bronze?  No.  Double roller full-component ceramic is what a real man's gyroscope runs on.
> 
> And finally I have an answer to what a used starter is good for... starting a gyro!


Thanks for the upsell   

This is for a 3 or 4 year old, not for missile guidance.  Although if provoked, I suppose the 1/2 lb flywheel could hurt.


----------



## Firstram

pontiac428 said:


> And finally I have an answer to what a used starter is good for... starting a gyro!


Chicken dinner!


----------



## IamNotImportant

IamNotImportant said:


> Ok as promised: Some pics
> 
> Tegara Vise: 320.00 before taxes and shipping
> View attachment 424770
> View attachment 424771
> View attachment 424772
> 
> 
> Fowler Square: 39.00 dollars on sale.
> 
> View attachment 424773


another view and as of today, i have power to the mill


----------



## ChazzC

Another Twofer:

Had a coupon and Williams-Sonoma had a bunch of stuff on clearance plus 20% off, so I picked up a Fish Spatula for the grill $5.26, including tax, free shipping:








What's the second part? Well, W-S has now surpassed MSC (which previously replaced Amazon) for using an oversized box with no packing material:




The spatula is 21" x 4" x 2-1/2", the box is 28" x 22" x 11". Remarkably, the delicate spatula arrived unscathed, and even the box wasn't even scuffed by UPS. Even though W-S charges flat rates for shipping (unless you have a W-S credit card, then it's free), I'd hate to think what the dimensional weight would have been for this shipment. But wait, I have a UPS Account, so I can check pricing:


28" x 22" x 11": UPS Ground $60; UPS 3-Day (how it was shipped) $131
24" x 6" x 4" (assumed smallest carton size): UPS Ground $15; UPS 3-Day $37
W-S Quoted Shipping $5.95 – it's no wonder "average" customers are paying through the nose for shipping! Yes, W-S, like many big "mail order" shippers have a UPS trailer (or several) staged at their dock, so all UPS has to do is haul it away to a nearby depot, but 10x – 22x the price?

Sorry, rant complete.


----------



## ChazzC

pontiac428 said:


> Bronze?  No.  Double roller full-component ceramic is what a real man's gyroscope runs on.
> 
> And finally I have an answer to what a used starter is good for... starting a gyro!


Don't forget the axial loads


----------



## wachuko

Bought a brass hammer and did not pay attention to the weight... meant to order a 1lb hammer and ordered a 2lb.  Will keep it and order another one...


----------



## pontiac428

wachuko said:


> Bought a brass hammer and did not pay attention to the weight... meant to order a 1lb hammer and ordered a 2lb.  Will keep it and order another one...



You're doing it wrong- the hammer is fine.  It's a vario-head hammer.  Swing it once for one pound, twice for two.


----------



## wachuko

pontiac428 said:


> You're doing it wrong- the hammer is fine.  It's a vario-head hammer.  Swing it once for one pound, twice for two.


I do trust my stupidity... I mean... my strength  

I went ahead and ordered this one...


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> I do trust my stupidity... I mean... my strength
> 
> I went ahead and ordered this one...
> 
> View attachment 426126


I don't know... The model number is missing the all important F, as in BFH.  Might not work for you


----------



## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> I don't know... The model number is missing the all important F, as in BFH.  Might not work for you


Well duh!  Because that is the 1lb hammer   

Here… this is the other one…


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> Well duh!  Because that is the 1lb hammer
> 
> Here… this is the other one…
> 
> View attachment 426128


So the other one is the LFH?


----------



## ChazzC

WobblyHand said:


> So the other one is the LFH?


The one on the bottom is the lfh (case sensitive):




Can't have too many Brass (or Copper) hammers!


----------



## matthewsx

wachuko said:


> I do trust my stupidity... I mean... my strength
> 
> I went ahead and ordered this one...
> 
> View attachment 426126


But you do have a lathe, right????


----------



## wachuko

matthewsx said:


> But you do have a lathe, right????


well...... yeah.....


----------



## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> well...... yeah.....


And you do know how to use it, right?  Machinist hammer is a classic lathe project  


Mine is a bit worn, but it works.  Aluminum handle, steel head with brass and delrin tips.  On the scale of hammers, a lfh.


----------



## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> And you do know how to use it, right?  Machinist hammer is a classic lathe project
> View attachment 426153
> 
> Mine is a bit worn, but it works.  Aluminum handle, steel head with brass and delrin tips.  On the scale of hammers, a lfh.



Sorry... I am a bit slow today... I see where this is going...




Okay.... I will order some brass and copper stock... geez


----------



## wachuko

Peer pressure....

Got the following:

1 - 1" diameter x 12" long 360 brass round bar
1 - 3/4" diameter x 12" long 360 brass round bar
1 - 1" diameter x 12" long C110 copper round bar
1 - 3/4" diameter x 12" long C110 copper round bar
And while I was there, not sure what I will use it for... but got a 3/8"x1"x12" C110 copper flat bar


----------



## pontiac428

You know what time it is!


----------



## mksj

Not too often that I need to buy anymore tooling, but I often have the need for a small torque wrench for electrical fittings and small screws/bolts. Most of the of what I have seen is either high end and stupidly expensive or the other extreme and pretty poorly made. Happen to find this TEKTON 1/4 Inch Drive Dual-Direction Click Torque Wrench (10-150 in.-lb.) | TRQ21101on Amazon at a reasonable price. It is made in Taiwan, all metal construction and very nicely made. Look forward to testing it out.


----------



## IamNotImportant

mksj said:


> Not too often that I need to buy anymore tooling, but I often have the need for a small torque wrench for electrical fittings and small screws/bolts. Most of the of what I have seen is either high end and stupidly expensive or the other extreme and pretty poorly made. Happen to find this TEKTON 1/4 Inch Drive Dual-Direction Click Torque Wrench (10-150 in.-lb.) | TRQ21101on Amazon at a reasonable price. It is made in Taiwan, all metal construction and very nicely made. Look forward to testing it out.
> View attachment 426172


i could use one of those actually


----------



## hman

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-TRQ21101-4-Inch-Dual-Direction-1-1-16-9/dp/B01M12284X/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=TEKTON+1%2F4+Inch+Drive+Dual-Direction+Click+Torque+Wrench&qid=1668084633&sr=8-5
		


$51.99


----------



## wachuko

hman said:


> https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-TRQ21101-4-Inch-Dual-Direction-1-1-16-9/dp/B01M12284X/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=TEKTON+1%2F4+Inch+Drive+Dual-Direction+Click+Torque+Wrench&qid=1668084633&sr=8-5
> 
> 
> 
> $51.99


That is great.  I have a similar one that I use for my bicycles.  The one you got seems to be of better quality.  Great buy!


----------



## erikmannie

Last load of 3” x 18” sanding belts for the 304 stainless project. This was $137.45 from the neighborhood Ace Hardware.

Each of these is a 5-pack! $1.37 per belt.


----------



## G-ManBart

wachuko said:


> Well duh!  Because that is the 1lb hammer
> 
> Here… this is the other one…
> 
> View attachment 426128


<In my best Paul Hogan/Crocodile Dundee voice>  That's not a hammer!  These are hammers


----------



## G-ManBart

Hi everyone, I'm Bart and I have a machinery "problem" <group replies: "Hi Bart">

It seems a Kearney & Trecker 2H Plain horizontal milling machine followed me home today.  I knew I wasn't going to get home in time to take pics before it got dark, so I snapped a couple during a fuel stop.  It came from an estate auction, so I don't know much about it, but it was set up and running on 230V single-phase, so that's a bit of a bonus.  Everything seems to move freely, feels snug, the flaking on the ways looks pretty good and the table looks decent, so I've got my fingers crossed.  It came with a decent pile of cutters, spacers, etc....honestly not sure what a few of the fixtures are, but the guy had a pretty extensive machine shop in his detached garage, so I'm not even sure they should have gone with the mill or not.  It needs a lot of cleaning and I'm sure it'll take a lot to sort through, but it was cheap enough I'm not worried...we'll see!


----------



## pontiac428

I gathered up the fixin's to brew a fine 300A work lead.  Flexy is sexy!


----------



## ChazzC

Well, bought over the weekend, but it arrived yesterday (a day early):



Watched an old video from Tom Lipton where he snuck a Lufkin 0 — 1/2" micrometer into the job he was doing, and BINGO: I needed one. Found this Starrett 576 on eBay for 11% of the current list price; a few scuffs, an engraved ID # and it is dead on at 0.000" & 0.500". Shown here living in its new home (a customized Altoids tin).


----------



## erikmannie

Two tricycle hubs which will be used on an oxyacetylene cart:









						SUN BICYCLES HUB SUN TRIKE REP RR IDLER 36Hx105G w/BEARING
					

Carson City Bike Shop for all of your bicycle parts and accessories. We have daily discounts on tires, tubes, brakes, cables, forks, and many other components




					carsoncitybikeshop.com
				




$49.22 for both, including tax & shipping.


----------



## erikmannie

Customer owned, spare 75 ft.³ acetylene as well as 80 ft.³ oxygen cylinders.




Also, 2 quantity Victor 000 cutting tips as well as 2 of the same in 00.




The acetylene tank in the photo above is smaller than my other (primary) acetylene tank, but these 2 cylinders in the photo above filled with gas set me back $623 so it will have to be big enough.


----------



## erikmannie

My $19, 2.0 Amp orbital sander (that was gifted to me by my Dad) reached the end of its life. One day I will be able to repair it by *replacing this hook and loop adhesive* that no longer sticks to the power tool. I looked online & in Harbor Freight as well as Homo Depot for these adhesives for sale, but I don’t see that anybody sells these sticky pads:




I wanted the 3.0A Harbor Freight orbital sander, but HF didn’t have any in stock. I needed the power tool for this weekend, so I bought this Makita at Home Depot. I got $10 off this price:




So now I get to experience what a 50% power increase feels like.


----------



## wachuko

They sell the pad with the hook and loop attached to it…. As one part…

I recently replaced mine


----------



## erikmannie

wachuko said:


> They sell the pad with the hook and loop attached to it…. As one part…
> 
> I recently replaced mine



Ahh, I see. The Makita has 3 screws, & the HF has 4 screws. Hopefully beyond this 3 or 4 screw difference the manufacturers have standardized this to some degree.

Makita:




Chicago Electric from Horrible Freight:




Here is the Makita part, called a Backing Pad or Sanding Pad:









						Makita 5 in. Round Hook and Loop Backing Pad (8-Hole) 743081-8 - The Home Depot
					

The 5 in. Round Hook and Loop Backing Pad is a replacement pad for the Makita BO5030/K, BO5031K and BO5041K orbital sanders. It features a foam body attached to a hard plastic backing plate. It also has



					www.homedepot.com
				




This sander looks like it will fit on the HF unit according to my careful measuring:



			https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-315112170-315116940-315116950-315112180/dp/B0824SFQ48


----------



## Gnpenning

This may not interest you depending on what you use the sander for.  You can get the backing pads with different density backing pads.  Not a bad idea to have different densities for different needs. 

As a reminder the hook and loop pads require a light pressure other wise you can prematurely wear it out.  Let the sand paper do it's job.  While PSA pads are different this way you still need to let the paper do it's job with both.


----------



## IamNotImportant

That 58 pc clamp kit i ordered for All Industrial, arrived today... 55 bucks and free shipping.....


----------



## pontiac428

Makita compatible 5" backing pads are a dollar a dozen on eBay.  The velcro is almost as good, the pad is indistinguishable from Makita oem.  If you're rocking and rolling on a job like that, expect to burn a few backing pads.  It's the heat that kills the velcro, so easy does it, keep it cool.  I can't take my own advice though, the sander itself is a hungry machine and I like to lean into it.  It's pretty tough; I beat it like it owes me money and it just goes.  I kill me some pads though.  Probably the reason the sell them in no-sh*t 12-packs!


----------



## Aaron_W

I picked up this well used Sherline lathe. It is an older one with a brass bed, so guessing it late 1970s since they went to a steel bed in the early 80s. Sherline was offered through Sears for a few years and this one is marked as a Craftsman 527-2142. 

I've been looking for a cheap 8" version of the Sherline to permanently set up the threading attachment on. This was a perfect candidate since it was missing the motor and speed controller keeping the price down. 
The poor little thing looks like it has had a tough life, but it should clean up nicely for my intended purpose, and it is kind of neat that it is one of the Craftsman branded ones. 

Sherline has kept these about 99% backward compatible so parts won't be any issue although I'm not expecting to need any beyond the threading adaptor which I already own. It is temporarily parked in front of my 17" Sherline until introductions to the other machines in the shop can be completed.


----------



## wachuko

This 1lb brass hammer looks too nice to beat the carp out of it!!  But got it to use, not to display


----------



## erikmannie

I bought 2 red flat-proof (i.e. solid) bicycle tires along with 2 red rims for an oxyacteylene cart. I will use black spokes & black hubs.

This may well look ugly, but the loud color is to create & maintain an awareness of safety.

Bicycle parts can be very affordable & both of these items were marked down over 50%.







The tires were $83.98 delivered for both, & the rims were $83.09 delivered for both. It will take 1-2 hours to build each wheel + install the tire, but after that I will probably never have to mess with the tires & wheels for the rest of my life.


----------



## IamNotImportant

trying to decide on a bandsaw


----------



## erikmannie

IamNotImportant said:


> trying to decide on a bandsaw



Precision Matthews has a bandsaw:






						PM-712G Horizontal / Vertical Band Saw – Precision Matthews Machinery Co.
					






					www.precisionmatthews.com
				




PM has taken great care of me with the customer service for the 4 machines that I have bought from them.


----------



## rwdenney

wachuko said:


> This 1lb brass hammer looks too nice to beat the carp out of it!!  But got it to use, not to display
> 
> View attachment 426578



It’s the mechanical pencil lead sharpener I like. 

Rick “has one of those around here somewhere” Denney


----------



## wachuko

rwdenney said:


> It’s the mechanical pencil lead sharpener I like.
> 
> Rick “has one of those around here somewhere” Denney


Another purchase influenced by the folks here… I like it a lot


----------



## Aaron_W

IamNotImportant said:


> trying to decide on a bandsaw



That is vague if you are looking for suggestions. Horizontal, vertical, compact or ginormous?

There is a reason the Harbor Freight 4x6" and similar is fairly ubiquitous in home shops.


----------



## Gaffer

IamNotImportant said:


> trying to decide on a bandsaw


As @Aaron_W pointed out, your post was vague. I have the HE&M saw and love it. It handles 99+% of my needs. I'd like a floor-standing, metal-cutting bandsaw, but I don't have the room for one, and I can't justify buying one seeing it would get little use. This is the saw I have. I scored it years ago on a Craigslist find.


----------



## wachuko

Gaffer said:


> As @Aaron_W pointed out, your post was vague. I have the HE&M saw and love it. It handles 99+% of my needs. I'd like a floor-standing, metal-cutting bandsaw, but I don't have the room for one, and I can't justify buying one seeing it would get little use. This is the saw I have. I scored it years ago on a Craigslist find.
> View attachment 426612


That or the one from HF….  And if budget allows… go bigger


----------



## FOMOGO

I have a Craigs list one just like Gaffer, but branded Baleigh. It has become my go to also. The only downside is I have to add weight to it to get it to cut faster. I just hang a legth of 1/2" chain on the tensioning knob. Makes a world of difference. I have several others including a nice 7x14 Taiwan made horizontal, but it only get used for the big stuff. Just saw an 18" Grob vertical metal cutting band saw on Craigs list. May give the guy a call. Just not sure I really need it.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Aaron_W said:


> That is vague if you are looking for suggestions. Horizontal, vertical, compact or ginormous?
> 
> There is a reason the Harbor Freight 4x6" and similar is fairly ubiquitous in home shops.


well it was "intended" that way, fore i have not decided yet, but it is looking like a 4x6 or 7x12 is in fact in order


----------



## Aaron David

Stopped by an estate sale, and picked up the following:



Armstrong wrenches, Williams boring bar, Armstrong lathe dog, and Lufkin surface gauge.


----------



## erikmannie

Aaron David said:


> Stopped by an estate sale, and picked up the following:
> 
> 
> 
> Armstrong wrenches, Williams boring bar, Armstrong lathe dog, and Lufkin surface gauge.



What a cool American made lathe dog!


----------



## IamNotImportant

are these any good?


----------



## 682bear

IamNotImportant said:


> View attachment 426968
> 
> 
> are these any good?



Are they used to carve the turkey?

-Bear


----------



## IamNotImportant

682bear said:


> Are they used to carve the turkey?
> 
> -Bear


i was thinking that it might be some kind of turkey ad...


----------



## pontiac428

Buy 10 inserts, get a free holder.

I assume that's an insert holder.

So they are either talking about one of these:






Or perhaps they mean a holder for your inserts comes free in tens, like this:





If the latter is considered a "free gift" then PT Barnum was right about what happens every minute!


----------



## 682bear

Those have a strange tip profile... I went to their website to get a better look. The inserts look interesting... if they are inexpensive, I'd like to give them a try...

But they don't look inexpensive...

-Bear


----------



## pontiac428

682bear said:


> Those have a strange tip profile... I went to their website to get a better look. The inserts look interesting... if they are inexpensive, I'd like to give them a try...
> 
> But they don't look inexpensive...
> 
> -Bear


Yeah, the tips look pre-chipped, just like eBay inserts!


----------



## 682bear

pontiac428 said:


> Yeah, the tips look pre-chipped, just like eBay inserts!



I've made a lot of inserts look like that... an interrupted cut on inconel with too much surface speed will do that to any insert!

-Bear


----------



## IamNotImportant

pontiac428 said:


> Buy 10 inserts, get a free holder.
> 
> I assume that's an insert holder.
> 
> So they are either talking about one of these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or perhaps they mean a holder for your inserts comes free in tens, like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the latter is considered a "free gift" then PT Barnum was right about what happens every minute!








						Turning Inserts - OD Tools
					






					genswiss.com


----------



## IamNotImportant

gotta log in to see the price


----------



## wachuko

Just got home with this… not sure the model or year…but for 75.00, what the heck…


----------



## Aaron David

Heh, I have one of those in my shop that I need to get rid of to clear some space. It does have the original table, and I could use one like yours for my shaper. Wanna trade, cross country?

Table should read stand, dur.


----------



## wachuko

Aaron David said:


> Heh, I have one of those in my shop that I need to get rid of to clear some space. It does have the original table, and I could use one like yours for my shaper. Wanna trade, cross country?
> 
> Table should read stand, dur.


Looks like it is missing the stand and belt guard…


----------



## alloy

alloy said:


> Just bought this. That damn welding class I'm taking is costing me money
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CBCB4M5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> View attachment 425973


Got this in on Monday and a couple of things I'm not happy about.  First of all the gas line uses what seems to be a propitiatory fitting.  I've got two other welders with regulators and I can't use either of them.  So had to order another regulator from yeswelder to make sure it actually will work.  But this is just a one time irritation.  Hopefully this next Tuesday the regulator will be here and I can actually weld with it.



The other thing that ill be an ongoing irritation is where they placed the feed mechanism and how hard i is to get to.  (see pics) The case covers half of the feeder. It's extremely difficult to get the wire into the feed hole and it takes two hands to get the knob off the feed roller to change it. I had to use a pair of small needle nose pliers to get the wire in..    You would think they would recognize this is a problem and change it.


----------



## Eyerelief

Alloy, maybe I dont understand your problem.  I don't own a yeswelder, but on my Miller, I run the feed rollers to pull the wire in.  Start with about 6" of straight weld wire of the proper dimension of course.  Turn the machine on and hit the trigger.   I would think it  would draw the wire in for you.  Am I off base here?


----------



## wachuko

Eyerelief said:


> Alloy, maybe I dont understand your problem.  I don't own a yeswelder, but on my Miller, I run the feed rollers to pull the wire in.  Start with about 6" of straight weld wire of the proper dimension of course.  Turn the machine on and hit the trigger.   I would think it  would draw the wire in for you.  Am I off base here?


Issue is how close to the case the assembly is...

In my YesWelder (different model) there is plenty of space for your hands to do this...


----------



## great white

Winter's coming and not having a power chute deflector on my JD blower last year:




was a real PITA getting in and out of the cab to adjust it last year. JD offers a "kit" to give it remote control from the cab, but it's a cable and lever arrangement (can also be a PITA). It's also VERY expensive for a cable and a couple brackets. Figured I can do better than that (for less $$$), so:




And, need a little weatherproofing for it:






The rest is just switches and wing to get to this point:


----------



## wachuko

Purchased the belt cover assembly from eBay... for the vintage scroll saw...


----------



## Steve-F

I'm waiting for the new paint scheme and name tag with baited breath


----------



## BGHansen

Steve-F said:


> I'm waiting for the new paint scheme and name tag with baited breath


Yeah, we'll have to start coming up with suggested names:  Dino-Saw-rus, Sir-shakes-a-lot, Jig-Saw-Puzzle, Band-Aids are in the top drawer. . .

Bruce


----------



## pontiac428

A saw called Wanda?  Because you wanda buy it, whether you had a use for it or not...


----------



## Aaron_W

wachuko said:


> Just got home with this… not sure the model or year…but for 75.00, what the heck…
> 
> View attachment 427065
> 
> 
> View attachment 427066
> 
> 
> View attachment 426976
> 
> View attachment 426978
> 
> View attachment 426979
> 
> View attachment 426977



Is it a Delta?


----------



## wachuko

Aaron_W said:


> Is it a Delta?


I think it is a vintage 24" Delta/Rockwell Milwaukee scroll saw... maybe a model 40-440?


----------



## Steve-F

Veronica!!!


----------



## wachuko

Steve-F said:


> Veronica!!!


There has to be a story behind that recommendation... spill the beans...



Steve-F said:


> I'm waiting for the new paint scheme and name tag with baited breath





BGHansen said:


> Yeah, we'll have to start coming up with suggested names:  Dino-Saw-rus, Sir-shakes-a-lot, Jig-Saw-Puzzle, Band-Aids are in the top drawer. . .
> 
> Bruce





pontiac428 said:


> A saw called Wanda?  Because you wanda buy it, whether you had a use for it or not...


I really like that movie...


----------



## pontiac428

Steve-F said:


> Veronica!!!


Definitely better than Betty.  And Ginger over Mary Ann (duh), Laverne over Shirley, and the other Betty over Wilma.


----------



## Steve-F

I was going with the" Vintage" you mentioned and it just popped out....doesn't really apply now that I think of it...but seemed to go with the Roxanne theme somehow.......maybe a movie???


----------



## wachuko

Steve-F said:


> I was going with the" Vintage" you mentioned and it just popped out....doesn't really apply now that I think of it...but seemed to go with the Roxanne theme somehow.......maybe a movie???


Okkkkkaaayyyyy.... lol


----------



## Winegrower

We keep buying all this stuff it’s going to be more like Thelma and Louise.


----------



## pontiac428

Well, if it's based on looks, then Thelma over Louise.  Based on personality, it's Louise over Thelma.  That's a tough one.


----------



## mcostello

Lucy over Ethyl? Gloria over Edith?


----------



## erikmannie

I bought this:









						Victor Cutter 540/510 ST900FC EDGE 2.0 Outfit - 0384-2141
					

This heavy duty outfit cuts up to 8" and welds up to 1/4" with accessories. Kit includes all the accessories you need including the Edge 2.0 regulators. |n|




					bakersgas.com
				




After the $15 off for signing up for their newsletter, the kit above was $782.48 including tax + free shipping.


----------



## IamNotImportant

pontiac428 said:


> Definitely better than Betty.  And Ginger over Mary Ann (duh), Laverne over Shirley, and the other Betty over Wilma.


and a lil bit of Monica!


----------



## IamNotImportant

mcostello said:


> Lucy over Ethyl? Gloria over Edith?


deff Lucy over Ethyl


----------



## Eyerelief

Rosie over Cagney and Lacy?


----------



## IamNotImportant

Eyerelief said:


> Rosie over Cagney and Lacy?


----------



## slodat

5/8" shaft Geometric Coventry style die holder with a bunch of chasing dies. Here's hoping I can figure out how to use it!




Fireball Hardtail Vise. I was early in the pre-order queue. Called for payment and to confirm shipping info today.


----------



## great white

Went to plug in the battery charger for the truck (sits alot now that I’m retired) and sure enough, died right there.

Crap. And it was an expensive noco model.

well, need one with about 10 car and bike batteries laid up for winter, so nearly 200 bucks later:


----------



## Eyerelief

@slodat  You are really going to like that Geometric style die head.  First order of business will be to make sure that the chasers are complete sets of 4, numbered 1 thru 4.  I say that because I see some loose one in the pic.  Get them together in sets.  Secondly, fabricate a way to hold it in your tailstock.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Eyerelief said:


> @slodat  You are really going to like that Geometric style die head.  First order of business will be to make sure that the chasers are complete sets of 4, numbered 1 thru 4.  I say that because I see some loose one in the pic.  Get them together in sets.  Secondly, fabricate a way to hold it in your tailstock.


i would not mind having one and will one day
just like i want a few annular cutters too


----------



## snoopdog

After giving mine to my uncle a couple yrs ago, after he bought a lathe and a mill. ( I'll never use this stuff again) Well, I had to get another after I got back in, it showed up today.


----------



## IamNotImportant

takes a while for that "i'll never use this again" to come around on ya


----------



## snoopdog

IamNotImportant said:


> takes a while for that "i'll never use this again" to come around on ya
> View attachment 427115


Yeah, gave him a bunch of hss lathe tooling, now I cant find any, worth the money. Oh well, made me feel good at the time, he passed a few months ago.


----------



## pontiac428

slodat said:


> Fireball Hardtail Vise. I was early in the pre-order queue. Called for payment and to confirm shipping info today.



I saw your post and salivated.  I went to the website and cheered.  I saw the price and cried.

$3800 for a 6" bench vise made right here in Washington.

I'm not the kind of guy who shops the Sharper Image catalog, but that thing belongs there, because there is no other way to justify the price.  You can't tell me that unions are responsible, or the EPA, or OSHA, or building codes, or any other cost of doing business outside of the third world.

Is it greed?  Is it Gucci?  Why did Fireball even bother?


----------



## slodat

Eyerelief said:


> @slodat  You are really going to like that Geometric style die head.  First order of business will be to make sure that the chasers are complete sets of 4, numbered 1 thru 4.  I say that because I see some loose one in the pic.  Get them together in sets.  Secondly, fabricate a way to hold it in your tailstock.


I have a MT1-MT4 adapter coming. Both of my lathes have MT4 tailstock. Thought is to bore the adapter to fit the die head, set screw to secure it.


----------



## slodat

pontiac428 said:


> I saw your post and salivated.  I went to the website and cheered.  I saw the price and cried.
> 
> $3800 for a 6" bench vise made right here in Washington.
> 
> I'm not the kind of guy who shops the Sharper Image catalog, but that thing belongs there, because there is no other way to justify the price.  You can't tell me that unions are responsible, or the EPA, or OSHA, or building codes, or any other cost of doing business outside of the third world.
> 
> Is it greed?  Is it Gucci?  Why did Fireball even bother?


I didn't buy the USA made version. It's not available for quite a while. The price is because of what they cost to make in the US. I'm sure the Taiwan version will be an incredible vise. It cost less than the new Wilton I was looking at last year when I did the pre-order.


----------



## IamNotImportant

pontiac428 said:


> I saw your post and salivated.  I went to the website and cheered.  I saw the price and cried.
> 
> $3800 for a 6" bench vise made right here in Washington.
> 
> I'm not the kind of guy who shops the Sharper Image catalog, but that thing belongs there, because there is no other way to justify the price.  You can't tell me that unions are responsible, or the EPA, or OSHA, or building codes, or any other cost of doing business outside of the third world.
> 
> Is it greed?  Is it Gucci?  Why did Fireball even bother?


but they have this one for 150.00 bucks


----------



## matthewsx

IamNotImportant said:


> but they have this one for 150.00 bucks
> 
> View attachment 427124


Never seen a welded vise before but that's a very attractive price. And you can weld it back together if you break it I guess....

John


----------



## IamNotImportant

matthewsx said:


> Never seen a welded vise before but that's a very attractive price. And you can weld it back together if you break it I guess....
> 
> John


oh boy, i would be SOL then..


----------



## matthewsx

IamNotImportant said:


> oh boy, i would be SOL then..


It does come from a welding company. 

Not everyone has their dads old Wilton….

John


----------



## IamNotImportant

Well after talking to the fella at the big machine shop, he pretty much made up my mind that i will need to get at least a 7x12 horizontal bandsaw


----------



## Eyerelief

IamNotImportant said:


> Well after talking to the fella at the big machine shop, he pretty much made up my mind that i will need to get at least a 7x12 horizontal bandsaw


I don't know if I need all of 7x12, but I purchased the HF 7x12 three years ago with a coupon for $750.  I have really enjoyed it.  Installed a bimetal blade before I turned it on.  Accurate, clean cuts, coolant pump.  I use it frequently, but have never wanted for more.  It can be wired for 110 or 220 single phase.  I wired mine for 220.  When I unboxed it, the fan shroud on the back of the motor was dented to the point I knew the fan would not turn.  HF didn't offer a replacement shroud and it took over a year to get things resolved.  I say resolved because they sent one motor which was so poorly packed that it was unusable (bent shaft).  I returned it to the local store.  They couldn't get another motor in from China.  Finally they offered me a 2 hp continuous duty motor and I took them up on it.  I was not really out anything or any down time.  I had removed the cover and set it aside (motor never runs that long anyway).  When they told me that I could take the motor offered or return and exchange the saw, I opted to keep the saw (300+ pounds, so I didn't want to move it).  I straightened the shroud, painted it and reinstalled it.  Cant even tell there was ever an issue.  

2HP motor is still in the box because I lack creativity.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Eyerelief said:


> I don't know if I need all of 7x12, but I purchased the HF 7x12 three years ago with a coupon for $750.  I have really enjoyed it.  Installed a bimetal blade before I turned it on.  Accurate, clean cuts, coolant pump.  I use it frequently, but have never wanted for more.  It can be wired for 110 or 220 single phase.  I wired mine for 220.  When I unboxed it, the fan shroud on the back of the motor was dented to the point I knew the fan would not turn.  HF didn't offer a replacement shroud and it took over a year to get things resolved.  I say resolved because they sent one motor which was so poorly packed that it was unusable (bent shaft).  I returned it to the local store.  They couldn't get another motor in from China.  Finally they offered me a 2 hp continuous duty motor and I took them up on it.  I was not really out anything or any down time.  I had removed the cover and set it aside (motor never runs that long anyway).  When they told me that I could take the motor offered or return and exchange the saw, I opted to keep the saw (300+ pounds, so I didn't want to move it).  I straightened the shroud, painted it and reinstalled it.  Cant even tell there was ever an issue.
> 
> 2HP motor is still in the box because I lack creativity.


something like that will be most likely i will be looking for


----------



## ChazzC

Well, MSC did it again. This time I purchased a set of Stanley/Proto 8-Point Sockets (I had 1/4" & 5/16", but not the larger ones, and they're like hen's teeth to find individually) drop-shipped from a third-party seller on Amazon ($12 less than direct from Amazon and although free delivery was expected in two weeks, got them the next day). [I am confused though: I get that "GoVets" might have a sweeter deal with MSC than Amazon (even though the packing slip says "Veratics, Inc."), how come MSC's "Web Price" is $2 more than Amazon (list is another $3) plus $13 s/h?] Anyway, here's what I found when I opened the shipping box:




Stanley/Proto didn't do much better:




Here's what I got:




I don't use a lot of square nuts, but they are common in 10-24 & 12-24 (and larger hardware on older equipment). I recently used some 10-24 hanger bolts to install a water filter for my humidifier and used a hex nut jammed over a square nut to screw the hanger portion into the joist:


The square nut allows you to use some pressure with a 3/8" nut driver, then you break apart the nuts, back them both off and install whatever with just the hex nut.

Over the weekend, I decided to change the setup, so I needed to remove the hanger bolts – fortunately, a 3/8" 8-point sock slips over a 3/8" hex nut to engage in the square nut, so now I can back the hanger bolts out easily.


----------



## Eyerelief

Bit of an impulse buy.  I found this Sandvik 4" RA590 face mill on the bay for $90 free shipping.  Brand new these go for around $1100, used, $600+/-.  It uses 6 inserts and that is where the pucker factor is.  New the general purpose inserts run around $40 each.  Two cutting edges per has them at around $20 an edge.  The 6 that were installed looked like they had an unused side so I put it on an R8 arbor and gave it a spin.  It is a 90* which isn't optimal but..........

What is unique about this series of face mill is that you can adjust the depth of each insert.  Notice the two torx screws associated with each insert.  Apparently there is about .003 to play with.  Step one after cleaning it up was to set the depth of each insert:


This face mill had a wiper insert installed so I set it .00075 deeper per my Mitutoyo:


The inserts are all positive rake which is pretty aggressive for an old manual machine.  The only piece of aluminum I had that was 4" wide was 3/8" thick.  I think it flexed a little and as a result it did not produce a finish that was worth much.  I only tried one pass knowing that since the aluminum was sitting on parallels in my vise instead of clamped flat to the table that I wasn't giving it a fair shake.
I put a piece of inch thick tool steel in and  tried a pass .003 deep, 4" per min, 1200rpm.



Not bad.  I see the machining marks but i don't feel them.  Made a second pass since I was through the oxidation and it was smoother yet.



I don't think I have the wiper insert deep enough.  I will toy around with setting it slightly deeper starting at about .001 down from the other 5.
Nothing I would have ever purchased at regular new or even used prices but for $90 it was worth a try.  Found some new 10 packs of Sandvik carbide inserts on the bay for $120 or $6 an edge so i grabbed up a pack.


----------



## IamNotImportant

recon i am going to try this one


			https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200943784_200943784


----------



## IamNotImportant

going to pick this one up in about 90 minutes.


----------



## mmcmdl

I know where a 9 x16" Peerless saw resides .


----------



## IamNotImportant

mmcmdl said:


> I know where a 9 x16" Peerless saw resides .


800.00?


----------



## mmcmdl

Just a wee bit more .


----------



## IamNotImportant

mmcmdl said:


> Just a wee bit more .


that's how much i am getting the other saw for, it's practically brand new, and comes with those extra blades for 800.00


----------



## mmcmdl

The Peerless is a grand . It is a big saw , too much for the garage space .


----------



## IamNotImportant

mmcmdl said:


> The Peerless is a grand . It is a big saw , too much for the garage space .


yeah, i am just 90 minutes away from this one, i can go get that one without needing someone to watch my mom..


----------



## Eyerelief

That unit has many brand names. It’s exactly the same as my HF. Jet has one as well. Good for you. Your going to like it.


----------



## slodat

ChazzC said:


> I don't use a lot of square nuts, but they are common in 10-24 & 12-24 (and larger hardware on older equipment). I recently used some 10-24 hanger bolts to install a water filter for my humidifier and used a hex nut jammed over a square nut to screw the hanger portion into the joist:
> View attachment 427181
> 
> The square nut allows you to use some pressure with a 3/8" nut driver, then you break apart the nuts, back them both off and install whatever with just the hex nut.
> 
> Over the weekend, I decided to change the setup, so I needed to remove the hanger bolts – fortunately, a 3/8" 8-point sock slips over a 3/8" hex nut to engage in the square nut, so now I can back the hanger bolts out easily.


I've had great luck with the Eazypower hanger bolt drivers. Won't work for removal..


----------



## IamNotImportant

Eyerelief said:


> That unit has many brand names. It’s exactly the same as my HF. Jet has one as well. Good for you. Your going to like it.


thanks my man!


----------



## great white

Special tool for replacing valave seals in the wife’s mini:



 European cars are such a pitb! More over-engineered ridiculousness and more special tools than you ca shake a stick at!


----------



## IamNotImportant

should i buy it?


----------



## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> should i buy it?
> 
> View attachment 427300


If the price is right…heck yeah!!  I love mine!! 




There is a certain nostalgia using something like that…


----------



## ChazzC

slodat said:


> I've had great luck with the Eazypower hanger bolt drivers. Won't work for removal..


Interesting, but while I’m always looking for new/more tools, this costs almost what the set of 8-point sockets which work “both ways;” I already have a couple of 1/4” hex - 3/8” drive adapters. Like Alton Brown, I prefer multi-taskers.


----------



## great white

IamNotImportant said:


> should i buy it?
> 
> View attachment 427300


Thats a question only you can answer. Everyone here is going to say “yes” because its your money they’re spending…..


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> If the price is right…heck yeah!!  I love mine!!
> 
> View attachment 427301
> 
> 
> There is a certain nostalgia using something like that…


they are asking 150 for it


----------



## IamNotImportant

great white said:


> Thats a question only you can answer. Everyone here is going to say “yes” because its your money they’re spending…..


yes yes, i understand that, but i would rather ppl say, it's a POS don't or, yes they are great..


----------



## great white

IamNotImportant said:


> yes yes, i understand that, but i would rather ppl say, it's a POS don't or, yes they are great..


Well, at 150 I might give it a go. Not too much to loose there.

Actually, I’d probably still pass. Already have a drill press plus a shortage of space and too many projects as it is…


----------



## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> they are asking 150 for it


Yes…


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> Yes…


i sent a message to see if i could look at it tomorrow, we'll see


----------



## mmcmdl

I also love the old drill presses . I bought an old one because it reminded me of the Cub Cadet mule drive pulley set up . Another project on my long list .   That looks like an oldie and a goodie .


----------



## IamNotImportant

says that the spindle was rebuilt by SPS Spindles in N.H, has all the paperwork for the work done. would 1800 be a fair price?


----------



## NCjeeper

An old 6x12 should be about half that price.


----------



## IamNotImportant

NCjeeper said:


> An old 6x12 should be about half that price.


that's what i was wondering, he claimed he spent 1900 on the spindle rebuild


----------



## matthewsx

Happens all the time….

“Just trying to get my money back”

If the seller sees value that the buyer doesn’t it can take a long time to get a deal done. I’d just make an offer based on what you think it’s worth and let him decide. 

John


----------



## NCjeeper

IamNotImportant said:


> that's what i was wondering, he claimed he spent 1900 on the spindle rebuild


The spindle may be in great shape now but what about the 60 year old ways. They have to have some wear in them which will affect the accuracy of the parts that are getting ground.


----------



## IamNotImportant

NCjeeper said:


> The spindle may be in great shape now but what about the 60 year old ways. They have to have some wear in them which will affect the accuracy of the parts that are getting ground.


I was thinking the same, but in a essence, why are you selling after investing so much in it.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Ok, picked up the drill press


For 150.00

I also got this tool box from the guy for 75.00



And then he sold me this Yuasa indicator and stand for 35.00 bucks, the stand needs some cleaning up a lil


----------



## pontiac428

Ooh, step #1:  Remove the chain from the chuck key.  EEK!


----------



## IamNotImportant

pontiac428 said:


> Ooh, step #1:  Remove the chain from the chuck key.  EEK!


oh yeah, i plan to, but thanks for the good looking out!


----------



## IamNotImportant

pontiac428 said:


> Ooh, step #1:  Remove the chain from the chuck key.  EEK!


needs a new belt too, suggestions?


----------



## pontiac428

IamNotImportant said:


> needs a new belt too, suggestions?.


Gates, Goodyear gatorback, or Continental.  Measure, match, and order.  I'm not sure if I'd use link belts again, they are noisy and hard to jockey over sheaves, but will fit anything.


----------



## BGHansen

matthewsx said:


> Happens all the time….
> 
> “Just trying to get my money back”
> 
> If the seller sees value that the buyer doesn’t it can take a long time to get a deal done. I’d just make an offer based on what you think it’s worth and let him decide.
> 
> John


+1 on your thoughts.  We have a circa 1980 Williams Firepower pinball machine.  I bought the game for around $1750 a year or two ago.  It gets played a lot when we host family events.  I was always apprehensive as with the 40+ years old boards, it'd flake out on occasion.  The game would lock up which could be temporarily "fixed" by opening the back box, pulling the connections between the various boards, and hooking everything back up.  It'd work for "a while", then flake out again.

I recently decided to stop "fumble d*cking" with it and replaced all of the boards (MPU, driver, speech and power supply) with re-engineered boards using modern components for around $800.  The displays were gas plasma using around 100 V and would flicker and/or sporadically lose a segment.  Again, pull the back glass, wiggle the connections and all would be good for "a while".  I replaced the plasma displays with modern 5V LED displays for $125.  On top of that, I replaced all of the 6.3 V incandescent bulbs with LED's for another $50.  The problems with a lot of these machines is they stick illumination bulbs right under the plastics which melt/distort them.  

I'm sure with other nickel and dime things I've done to it, I've spent $3000 total on the machine.  Does that make it a $3000 pinball machine at this point?  Probably not, as I see them for sale for around $2000, sometimes with some replacement boards.  Those are being sold as "everything works as it should" machines.  Some guys don't mind tinkering with them.  In my case, I wanted to be confident that when it's fired up this Thanksgiving, it'll work all day.  I'd have to find someone like me who would be willing to pay a little extra for a "hands-free" (other than the flippers!) machine.

Probably a number of surface grinders out there with decent spindles from lower use.  Because he had to fix a worn-out machine doesn't necessarily mean he can pass the repair bill on to the new owner.  However, you will be getting a "new" machine regarding the spindle.  You should with some confidence not have to worry about ever servicing it in a hobby shop.  There is some value in not worrying about it unless you don't mind tinkering.

Bruce


----------



## IamNotImportant

BGHansen said:


> +1 on your thoughts.  We have a circa 1980 Williams Firepower pinball machine.  I bought the game for around $1750 a year or two ago.  It gets played a lot when we host family events.  I was always apprehensive as with the 40+ years old boards, it'd flake out on occasion.  The game would lock up which could be temporarily "fixed" by opening the back box, pulling the connections between the various boards, and hooking everything back up.  It'd work for "a while", then flake out again.
> 
> I recently decided to stop "fumble d*cking" with it and replaced all of the boards (MPU, driver, speech and power supply) with re-engineered boards using modern components for around $800.  The displays were gas plasma using around 100 V and would flicker and/or sporadically lose a segment.  Again, pull the back glass, wiggle the connections and all would be good for "a while".  I replaced the plasma displays with modern 5V LED displays for $125.  On top of that, I replaced all of the 6.3 V incandescent bulbs with LED's for another $50.  The problems with a lot of these machines is they stick illumination bulbs right under the plastics which melt/distort them.
> 
> I'm sure with other nickel and dime things I've done to it, I've spent $3000 total on the machine.  Does that make it a $3000 pinball machine at this point?  Probably not, as I see them for sale for around $2000, sometimes with some replacement boards.  Those are being sold as "everything works as it should" machines.  Some guys don't mind tinkering with them.  In my case, I wanted to be confident that when it's fired up this Thanksgiving, it'll work all day.  I'd have to find someone like me who would be willing to pay a little extra for a "hands-free" (other than the flippers!) machine.
> 
> Probably a number of surface grinders out there with decent spindles from lower use.  Because he had to fix a worn-out machine doesn't necessarily mean he can pass the repair bill on to the new owner.  However, you will be getting a "new" machine regarding the spindle.  You should with some confidence not have to worry about ever servicing it in a hobby shop.  There is some value in not worrying about it unless you don't mind tinkering.
> 
> Bruce


The real value is the pride that you have in seeing family enjoy it from your efforts! That's value that can't be replaced


----------



## ChazzC

matthewsx said:


> Happens all the time….
> 
> “Just trying to get my money back”
> 
> If the seller sees value that the buyer doesn’t it can take a long time to get a deal done. I’d just make an offer based on what you think it’s worth and let him decide.
> 
> John


It’s not unlike home remodeling: never do anything expecting to get your investment back - odds are good what features you like will be just Ok to  buyer.


----------



## great white

IamNotImportant said:


> that's what i was wondering, he claimed he spent 1900 on the spindle rebuild


So he put too much money into and old piece of equipment and now wants out.

Too bad for him.

It's like rebuilding a classic muscle car and putting 100G into it when the car is only marketable for around 50G. No one is going to pay 100G for it so it's on you that you overspent on it.

If you're fixing it because you love it, fine. Your money, spnd it how you want. If you're fixing it to sell it and you put too much into it, that's all on you.

I have empathy for guys who get stuck in that pickle (been there myself more often than I want to admit), but not enough empathy to put myself in a hole to dig them out of theirs....


----------



## Aaron_W

Disregard


----------



## IamNotImportant

Aaron_W said:


> Disregard


----------



## wachuko

IamNotImportant said:


> needs a new belt too, suggestions?






Goodyear Classic A43 - 4L450


----------



## IamNotImportant

wachuko said:


> View attachment 427432
> 
> 
> Goodyear Classic A43 - 4L450


Thank you my good man!


----------



## great white

Wife’s mini (like most cars these days) has a lot of plastic in the engine bay, including the valve cover.

Its common for this to warp and/or crack as it ages. The wife’s is still good, but at 13 years its getting towards the end of life cycle.

Not a lot of options other than another plastic one.

Then I ran across this:




cast aluminum. Only one I’ve ever seen. Grabbed one for 150 USD and I’ll see if its good or junk once it arrives. It looks pretty good though. 

This isn’t about adding “bling”, its a out changing to a more durable part….there are some places plastic just doesn’t belong.


----------



## IamNotImportant

great white said:


> Wife’s mini (like most cars these days) has a lot of plastic in the engine bay, including the valve cover.
> 
> Its common for this to warp and/or crack as it ages. The wife’s is still good, but at 13 years its getting towards the end of life cycle.
> 
> Not a lot of options other than another plastic one.
> 
> Then I ran across this:
> 
> View attachment 427613
> View attachment 427614
> 
> cast aluminum. Only one I’ve ever seen. Grabbed one for 150 USD and I’ll see if its good or junk once it arrives. It looks pretty good though.
> 
> This isn’t about adding “bling”, its a out changing to a more durable part….there are some places plastic just doesn’t belong.


a friend of mine has a mini, i just pasted this along to him


----------



## great white

IamNotImportant said:


> a friend of mine has a mini, i just pasted this along to him


If its a cooper S (ie:turbo) it won’t fit. This is only for the N12.

But you can also get ones for the N18 (turbo). They are far more common than the n12 covers.

If he does have an N12 and wants one, he better move on it as the ebay seller only has 2 left….


----------



## IamNotImportant

great white said:


> If its a cooper S (ie:turbo) it won’t fit. This is only for the N12.
> 
> But you can also get ones for the N18 (turbo). They are far more common than the n12 covers.
> 
> If he does have an N12 and wants one, he better move on it as the ebay seller only has 2 left….


i have left him a message about it, but i would presume he's already balled up in the bed by now


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

Well well... Thus, my finest moment,.. or maybe my worst


----------



## ACHiPo

Zyox Jägergeist said:


> Well well... Thus, my finest moment,.. or maybe my worst
> View attachment 427698


“nothing succeeds like excess!”  Did u buy the whole lathe or just the chuck?


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

ACHiPo said:


> “nothing succeeds like excess!”  Did u buy the whole lathe or just the chuck?


Whole lathe, it's a Geminus cnc 870x3000.
Bit worn, but that is how a guy like me can afford it


----------



## francist

It’s so big we only get to see it in instalments…


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

francist said:


> It’s so big we only get to see it in instalments…


Haha I guess I should share the rest, I don't really have a picture of it all together with the enclosure and electrical cabinet, but here it is


----------



## erikmannie

I bought blue thread locking compound, Prussian blue, blue Dykem, & three T-shirts:










You guys should check out the machining shirts from oneofakindshirts on eBay. They are only $16.99 with free shipping.


----------



## wayback machine

erikmannie said:


> oneofakindshirts


Got a link to those ?


----------



## IamNotImportant

wayback machine said:


> Got a link to those ?


just copy and paste, you'll find it


----------



## wayback machine

IamNotImportant said:


> just copy and paste, you'll find it


Did that, why I asked - Says "No exact matches" - Searched and just found rock band, pop culture, etc, stupid shirts.


----------



## IamNotImportant

wayback machine said:


> Did that, why I asked - Says "No exact matches" - Searched and just found rock band, pop culture, etc, stupid shirts.











						oneofakindshirts | eBay Stores
					





					www.ebay.com


----------



## NCjeeper

I picked up a couple of the G&E shirts a while back myself.


----------



## erikmannie

I was also not able to find it by searching for that seller.

Try searching this on eBay:

Miller Falls reproduction print on Gildan T Shirt (Tool, Plane) FREE SHIPPING


----------



## G-ManBart

The type B overarm support that came with my K&T is pretty scruffy and I didn't get a type A support with the machine, but did get a type A arbor.  Lost Creek Machinery had pretty nice examples of both, so I bought both.  Jason at Lost Creek was super nice and gave me a discount on the pair which covered the shipping.  The B needs a new piece of plastic in the sight glass, but that's easy enough.  Overall, they look pretty nice and the price was a lot better than what you'll find on eBay.


----------



## IamNotImportant

erikmannie said:


> I was also not able to find it by searching for that seller.
> 
> Try searching this on eBay:
> 
> Miller Falls reproduction print on Gildan T Shirt (Tool, Plane) FREE SHIPPING


i just put in the search bar the name of his store and it was the first link i got. now, mind you, i don't use g-oo-g-le either


----------



## rwm




----------



## erikmannie

rwm said:


> View attachment 427752




I have one just like that, right down to the color!


----------



## G-ManBart

IamNotImportant said:


> oneofakindshirts | eBay Stores
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com


That appears to be another eBay seller illegally using trademark logos and names without permission (at least for some they offer).


----------



## erikmannie

G-ManBart said:


> That appears to be another eBay seller illegally using trademark logos and names without permission (at least for some they offer).



Indeed. These may be the same people as the website below









						Machinist Life
					

Machinist Shirts, Hats, Sweaters, Mugs, and More



					www.machinistlife.com
				




 which sold similar shirts. In it’s heyday, the above website had an inventory about 20 times the size and what you see in the aforementioned eBay Seller’s store.

I wish that the people who own these trademarks would sell shirts!

One encounters the same story when one looks for a Miller Electric shirt. I’ve never seen that Miller sells shirts, but eBay always has a decent selection of unauthorized Miller T-shirts.

Speaking of this topic, I am going to send an email to Precision Matthews, asking them to offer authorized logo T-shirts. I would buy several.


----------



## erikmannie

I bought 4 econo-import (my assumption based on the price + “Unbranded/Generic” description) 9/16” T-slot nuts with 1/2-13 threads.

The landed cost was $3.56 each. In the past, I have bought Te-Co brand, but I guess I was feeling cheap today. It would have cost about twice as much for Te-Co brand.


----------



## erikmannie

Three fluid ounces of Super-Blue with a landed cost of $14.60. I have never used this before, but I have always wanted to.


----------



## brino

erikmannie said:


> Three fluid ounces of Super-Blue with a landed cost of $14.60. I have never used this before, but I have always wanted to.


Erik, please let us know your technique (cleaning, heating, etc.) and results!
My local Cabella's carries that and I've been considering it. Thanks.
Brian


----------



## IamNotImportant

brino said:


> Erik, please let us know your technique (cleaning, heating, etc.) and results!
> My local Cabella's carries that and I've been considering it. Thanks.
> Brian


it gets a 4.6 rating on Brownell's website


----------



## wayback machine

IamNotImportant said:


> oneofakindshirts | eBay Stores
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com


Thank You !


----------



## ChazzC

Used my Ace Rewards 50% Off Coupon:


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> You really need to get a by 32nds set for ER40s.  Collapse range is 1mm and you really don't want to do that to your good collets.  1/16" is 0.0625, which is over 1mm.  So a standard by 1/16" set will have holes in it.


So you have the PM ER40 set tru chuck, if this is correct, can you relate as to whether  a person can achieve a .120 offset with that chuck?


----------



## WobblyHand

IamNotImportant said:


> So you have the PM ER40 set tru chuck, if this is correct, can you relate as to whether  a person can achieve a .120 offset with that chuck?


I have the Shars 5" zero set ER40 chuck.  Sorry I have no idea about the PM version's offset.  Sounds like a lot of adjustment.  I machined my own back plate for the chuck.  I only needed to barely touch the chuck zero set screws to zero it in.  Honestly don't recall what the adjustment range was. If your set up needs 0.120" correction sounds like something is pretty far off.


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> I have the Shars 5" zero set ER40 chuck.  Sorry I have no idea about the PM version's offset.  Sounds like a lot of adjustment.  I machined my own back plate for the chuck.  I only needed to barely touch the chuck zero set screws to zero it in.  Honestly don't recall what the adjustment range was. If your set up needs 0.120" correction sounds like something is pretty far off.


no, i need to repeat a drilled hole with a offset with in the .120 range from center


----------



## WobblyHand

IamNotImportant said:


> no, i need to repeat a drilled hole with a offset with in the .120 range from center


Ok.  I will let others answer if they know how to do that with a set true.  Seems like a lot of movement for a set true.
A four jaw could obviously do this, but you asked about a set true ER40.


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> Ok.  I will let others answer if they know how to do that with a set true.  Seems like a lot of movement for a set true.
> A four jaw could obviously do this, but you asked about a set true ER40.


yes, i am aware that a four jaw would do that, but it would really slow me down


----------



## ChazzC

IamNotImportant said:


> yes, i am aware that a four jaw would do that, but it would really slow me down


Mount a straight shank ER40 collet holder in a 4-jaw? Use the 4-jaw to get the offset, then you can quickly change out the parts in the ER40.


----------



## IamNotImportant

ChazzC said:


> Mount a straight shank ER40 collet holder in a 4-jaw? Use the 4-jaw to get the offset, then you can quickly change out the parts in the ER40.


that was my original thought, but was told that i should not consider that, so i was looking for a alternative to that, but it looks like i will move forward and try my original path,,,, thank you sir for your support


----------



## ChazzC

IamNotImportant said:


> that was my original thought, but was told that i should not consider that, so i was looking for a alternative to that, but it looks like i will move forward and try my original path,,,, thank you sir for your support


Just minimize the stick-out


----------



## IamNotImportant

ChazzC said:


> Just minimize the stick-out


yes, it is a second op, just drilling, reaming or boring


----------



## IamNotImportant

i think that for my three jaw chuck i will get a Bison direct mount


----------



## ChazzC

IamNotImportant said:


> i think that for my three jaw chuck i will get a Bison direct mount


A square collet block might be your best bet:



Short and would give good contact in the 4-jaw.


----------



## IamNotImportant

ChazzC said:


> A square collet block might be your best bet:
> 
> View attachment 427873
> 
> Short and would give good contact in the 4-jaw.


yes, i still need a 3 jaw chuck as well..


----------



## IamNotImportant

Thank y'all.. much appreciated


----------



## DLF

(Cheap) Lathe inserts. Fresh from China
	

		
			
		

		
	




Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## IamNotImportant

Well, i bought this chuck, sales taxes ugh!


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

IamNotImportant said:


> Well, i bought this chuck, sales taxes ugh!
> 
> View attachment 427952


Bison makes good chucks! Expensive, but good.

Old beat up 12" I've got still hold .001" after 15 years of hard use.


----------



## Suzuki4evr

Zyox Jägergeist said:


> Haha I guess I should share the rest, I don't really have a picture of it all together with the enclosure and electrical cabinet, but here it is
> View attachment 427700


I reckon you'll be making some mini lathes now for the H-M community?????


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

Suzuki4evr said:


> I reckon you'll be making some mini lathes now for the H-M community?????


Hahaha that would sure be lots of work 

I would like to make some machinist tooling oneday,  I like making that kind of stuff, 123 - 246 blocks, vices, squares, parallels.


----------



## DLF

Ordered at a local foundry a grey cast iron block: 23 x 13 x 11 cm [L x l x h]

I plan to raise the mill column by 10cm.

Just sandwich it between the base and the column and use longer bolts to hold the column.

I might epoxy it to the column. Don't know if this helps with vibrations.

I will also check the column squareness to the table and if out of square I will add the necesary angles when facing the block.






Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bi11Hudson

Just another write-off, the reason I won't pay much up front. If it works out, I will buy another *one new*. Although I did beat out a couple of other bidders. What I wanted to do is measure the "root?" diameter of a screw. But the anvils are too thick (~0.020") to measure the small (<1/4-20) threads I deal with. They will do fine, I guess, for a 5/8' bolt and things of that size. But even with the slight angular meeting of the anvils, they are thicker than the pitch of most of my work. Ces la Vie', $h!t happens. . . I'll just stick to a good caliper with sharp edges, and my understanding of screw threads to determine drill sizes.


----------



## francist

What do you figger your chances of grinding the tips so they fit for you? Might not get a tenth accuracy but I think one or two thou should be possible, yes? If I were going to ‘write it off’ anyway I think I’d grind them and see what happened.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

While it *is* a write-off, I would be highly skeptical of grinding the tips. Because of my (lack of) accuracy. Added to the reluctance to "modify" a manufactured tool unless absolutely necessary. Then there is the real problem, in that the screw threads around a 2-56, that I consider to be the middle of the range I work in. I consider a 1/4-20 to be a *large* screw and occasionally deal with 3/0-120. I do make "off-normal" threads, some obsolete or archaic, some custom for a difficult application.

I do thank you for the suggestion, even though I thought the same when I ordered it. I am currently using the "knife edge" tips on a dial caliper. That has been moderately satisfactory since the '70s. I have had to "oversize" a few times, but only a *few*, in near 50 years.

.


----------



## mmcmdl

Nothing wrong with owning groove mics . They come in handy !


----------



## ChazzC

Bi11Hudson said:


> Just another write-off, the reason I won't pay much up front. If it works out, I will buy another *one new*. Although I did beat out a couple of other bidders. What I wanted to do is measure the "root?" diameter of a screw. But the anvils are too thick (~0.020") to measure the small (<1/4-20) threads I deal with. They will do fine, I guess, for a 5/8' bolt and things of that size. But even with the slight angular meeting of the anvils, they are thicker than the pitch of most of my work. Ces la Vie', $h!t happens. . . I'll just stick to a good caliper with sharp edges, and my understanding of screw threads to determine drill sizes.
> View attachment 428091


This is a blade mike, handy for measuring the diameter of grooves and other hard to reach features. Screw thread micrometers either have a set of interchangeable anvils to handle a range of pitches, or handle only a narrow range. A pair of anvils consists of a vee-point and matching notch. Around $60 new on eBay:


----------



## IamNotImportant

saw this and was wondering about using it









						Fowler 52-090-008 Digi-Pitch Set of Holders *NEW - OVERSTOCK*
					

Item Description  Digi-Pitch Sets offer an affordable alternative to conventional pitch micrometers Easy set up and calibration Provides quick, accurate thread measurements Can be used as a Go-NO/GO gage No need for cumbersome measuring wires or measuring triangles Can be used with electronic or...




					shop.idealprec.com


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

Scrounged up some decent deals off ebay the past week.
60usd for the 81pc Links gauge block set and 15 for the 77c Lufkin radius gauges.... After all the currency conversion, import and shipping it come out to 200 Canadian peso's 

Ebay pics~


----------



## ChazzC

IamNotImportant said:


> saw this and was wondering about using it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fowler 52-090-008 Digi-Pitch Set of Holders *NEW - OVERSTOCK*
> 
> 
> Item Description  Digi-Pitch Sets offer an affordable alternative to conventional pitch micrometers Easy set up and calibration Provides quick, accurate thread measurements Can be used as a Go-NO/GO gage No need for cumbersome measuring wires or measuring triangles Can be used with electronic or...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.idealprec.com


Too coarse for the 2-56 that @Bi11Hudson wants to check. The specs don't give any dimensions of the tips, but I don't think you be able to get much below 20 TPI, if that. Clamp-on fixtures for calipers are handy (I have a set of cone-end adapters for measuring C-C distance between holes permanently attached to a low cost set of digital calipers).


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

A set of thread wires should get bill down to measuring 48tpi with a normal mic.
Below that I am unsure, something specialty I am assuming.


----------



## BGHansen

ChazzC said:


> Too coarse for the 2-56 that @Bi11Hudson wants to check. The specs don't give any dimensions of the tips, but I don't think you be able to get much below 20 TPI, if that. Clamp-on fixtures for calipers are handy (I have a set of cone-end adapters for measuring C-C distance between holes permanently attached to a low cost set of digital calipers).


My Fowler and Shars 1" screw pitch mics have a set of anvils for 64-48 tpi range.  So much nicer than wires, triangles, etc.  They run around $75 for the non-digital style.  I only use the tumbler-style digital ones at this point and keep a thread pitch chart in the case for quick reference.

Bruce


----------



## ChazzC

From FB Marketplace:





Like new in box, $25. Seller will be sending photos of more!!


----------



## ChazzC

BGHansen said:


> My Fowler and Shars 1" screw pitch mics have a set of anvils that for 64-48 tpi range.  So much nicer than wires, triangles, etc.  They run around $75 for the non-digital style.  I only use the tumbler-style digital ones at this point and keep a thread pitch chart in the case for quick reference.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> 
> View attachment 428153
> 
> 
> View attachment 428154



Much nicer than fumbling with wires. I also like mechanical digital micrometers: easy to read and no batteries.


----------



## ttabbal

For small threads, I've been using a Shars thread mic. It works great, and most of my threads are <1". For the few times I need a larger thread, I use something like these.. 









						Thread Chek Thread Wire Attachment System - 16707
					

Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.




					www.penntoolco.com
				




They hold the 2 wires on the mic, so you aren't trying to juggle 4 items. It makes using wires not require 4 hands, which is nice. Not as easy to use as a thread mic, but good enough for the few times I year I end up using the wires.


----------



## rwdenney

Needed a set of pin gauges. 










These will partner with my Starrett and Mayhew pin punches.




And I wanted a dial indicator with a 2” travel. 




Finally, I’m a sucker for Perfect Handle screwdrivers. 




Rick “not just buying lathe parts” Denney


----------



## erikmannie

I had bought 4 cheap import T-slot nuts on eBay. I received them today & I was horrified at the poor quality. The eBay Seller must be selling the Quality Control rejects.

This time I bought four quantity USA made T-slot nuts. This set me back $19.64 for 4 of them, including tax & shipping.


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

erikmannie said:


> I had bought 4 cheap import T-slot nuts on eBay. I received them today & I was horrified at the poor quality. The eBay Seller must be selling the Quality Control rejects.
> 
> This time I bought four quantity USA made T-slot nuts. This set me back $19.64 for 4 of them, including tax & shipping.
> 
> View attachment 428237


I always make my t-nuts.
I use some special material as it's the only thing I've found that puts up with the daily HARD use without deformation or cracking.

Chinese ones strip, te-co ones crack.
At those prices I should be selling mine on ebay! :O


----------



## pontiac428




----------



## IamNotImportant

pontiac428 said:


> View attachment 428260


----------



## IamNotImportant

IamNotImportant said:


> Well, i bought this chuck, sales taxes ugh!
> 
> View attachment 427952


Got the chuck here just a while ago, i am happy to report that the chuck on this lathe has less than .001 runout, looking like about 8 tenths


----------



## MrCrankyface

Got lucky on a local "ebay" style site.
6 sided cutter, 40mm diameter and 220mm long, I paid ~20 USD.
Granted it's used but resharpened down to 39.5mm from 40mm.
The sheer length of it should let me do some weird stuff on the mill. 
It's also pretty interesting trying to handle such a heavy(1.5kg) endmill without cutting my hands up, definitely need gloves when I put this in a holder.


----------



## erikmannie

Zyox Jägergeist said:


> I always make my t-nuts.
> I use some special material as it's the only thing I've found that puts up with the daily HARD use without deformation or cracking.
> 
> Chinese ones strip, te-co ones crack.
> At those prices I should be selling mine on ebay! :O



Do you spoil the thread at the bottom? If so, how? With a punch?


----------



## Zyox Jägergeist

erikmannie said:


> Do you spoil the thread at the bottom? If so, how? With a punch?



I've made one run with a non through thread, did it by not tapping quite through in the cnc.

But I prefer them tapped through, then you can lock them in place.


----------



## Just for fun

I have made a few T Nuts and I tapped them all the way through and then used a center punch to foul the last couple threads.  The kit that I bought form Precision Matthews for my mill had all the T-Nuts tapped all the way through.  I used a center punch on all of them as well.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

You can also use a long lead or starter tap and stop before the tap cuts all the threads to full depth, same as what Zyox wrote. That's what I did with the ones I made


----------



## ChazzC

From my new FB Marketplace friend:






Not as nice as the small rules, but they cleaned up well.


----------



## erikmannie

ChazzC said:


> From my new FB Marketplace friend:
> 
> View attachment 428377
> 
> View attachment 428378
> 
> 
> Not as nice as the small rules, but they cleaned up well.



I have those exact same scales. I use them all the time & they are great.


----------



## erikmannie

I received 3 T-shirts from this place today, & liked them so much that I bought 4 more T-shirts. My landed cost was $18.56 each.













I wear these shirts *everywhere*, & I have only had somebody say anything on two occasions: one guy who owns a Hardinge, & one guy who owns a LeBlond.

For the guy who owned the Hardinge, I gave him that shirt (the next day) as he was one of my instructors at Machine school. He later passed away.

The guy who owns the LeBlond, he asked where I bought it, & he bought himself the same shirt the next day.


----------



## erikmannie

I sent @mattthemuppet2 $120 this morning for some T-slot nuts, related clamps, quality boring bars, & inserts. 

I will post a picture of the Flat Rate box that he packed up which is already on it’s way, but here is a preview:


----------



## erikmannie

I bought a Miller dual cylinder cart. This was $578.59 including tax & shipping, after a $10 off coupon (which you can also use, see photo).

I am currently in the process of building my own dual cylinder cart, but I will only have about 8 hours/week to work on the cart because of my busy holiday work schedule. I have 2 cylinders that need to be secured better ASAP, & I do not want to be in a hurry when I am building the new cart. I don’t see the new cart being finished in less than 2 months.

I already have one of these carts. They are pretty cheap (as in “nuthin’ fancy”).

When I finally finish building the new dual cylinder cart, this Miller cart will be used to store 2 spare oxygen cylinders (which I will make sure not to purchase until the new cart is finished!).

My sweet & precious mother-in-law sleeps directly above my garage metal shop, so I need to make absolutely certain that all gas cylinders are **properly secured**.









						Miller Dual Cylinder Rack Cart - 951770Default Title
					

This Miller Welding cart is the ideal cart to go with your Millermatic 141, 211 or Mulitmatic 215, 220 welding machine.




					bakersgas.com


----------



## IamNotImportant

Anyone ever use a fuel pump for their flood system?


----------



## mattthemuppet2

erikmannie said:


> I sent @mattthemuppet2 $120 this morning for some T-slot nuts, related clamps, quality boring bars, & inserts.
> 
> I will post a picture of the Flat Rate box that he packed up which is already on it’s way, but here is a preview:
> 
> View attachment 428423


it's going to be a pretty heavy box, mind your back


----------



## IamNotImportant

mattthemuppet2 said:


> it's going to be a pretty heavy box, mind your back


Just put a bid on  a kennedy tool box, large parallels, combo set, draw full of endmills, precise 90 degree angle plate for 200.00


----------



## projectnut

Although this purchase was made last Wednesday hopefully It's close enough to "today" to count.  Since I purchased a cold saw last spring, I've been looking for a few blades to cover the different materials I need to cut.  I purchased 1 350mm blade specifically for aluminum round stock up to 4" in diameter.  The saw came with a 315mm blade for steel up to 1 1/2" in diameter.  I also modified the mounting for a 350mm high speed blade for aluminum flat stock up to 1" thick.

To cover solid steel up to 2" in diameter and tube up to 4" in diameter I purchased 2 new 350mm Palmgren blades on eBay.  I happened to luck out at $45.00 a copy.  I say luck out in that the least expensive blade I've seen from retailers is $139.00 a copy, with some well over the $250.00 range.


----------



## ChazzC

Hey, I got another box:




Must be something good since it has the battery warning sticker on it:




Yep – lots of Bagged Air and one strip of watch batteries.


----------



## IamNotImportant

my cabinet for the VFD came in today, still waiting on some switches to arrive, my 24vdc switches are here, but the 240v on isn't yet.


----------



## WobblyHand

ChazzC said:


> Hey, I got another box:
> 
> View attachment 428601
> 
> 
> Must be something good since it has the battery warning sticker on it:
> 
> View attachment 428602
> 
> 
> Yep – lots of Bagged Air and one strip of watch batteries.


They are lithium batteries - so the common carriers are required to label them with the big black/white and red sticker.  Seems pretty ridiculous though for such little blister packaged batteries.


----------



## ChazzC

WobblyHand said:


> They are lithium batteries - so the common carriers are required to label them with the big black/white and red sticker.  Seems pretty ridiculous though for such little blister packaged batteries.


Understand that, my (poorly made) point was that they were better packaged than most delicate or heavy items I get from Amazon.


----------



## WobblyHand

ChazzC said:


> Understand that, my (poorly made) point was that they were better packaged than most delicate or heavy items I get from Amazon.


Agree with you 100%.  I only get stuff from Amazon if I have to.  These days, they often are not the lowest cost.


----------



## great white

Showed up today:




special tool for removing the valvtronic (vvt) springs on my wife’s mini cooper. You need them remove the valvtronic springs to removed the OH cams to change the valve seals. Major PITB. Nearly 300 bucks just for the one tool.

Another 300 for the camshaft setting/timing tools, another 50 if you want the special engine support tool and you still need to buy the tools to pressurize the cylinders, compress the valve springs and change the seals (around another 150-200 bucks).

So you’re pushing close to 1G to do valve seals before you even get to buying parts.

As if that weren’t enough, they went whole hog on the plastic engine parts (they even have plastic oil control rings on the pistons! WTF?!?!) and they get brittle with age so you’re probably going to break/crack things like the valve cover, water pump, thermostat housing, etc.

Oh, did I mention you pretty much have to remove all of the front clip just to get enough room to change things like the timing chain, water pump, belts, thermostat, etc. Ugh.

Bloody BMW. I despise working on European cars. You pretty much need a special tool to work on anything or find a way to ”buck-shee” the job so you can do without them.

Yeah, not too keen on having a “diy” tool slip and get one of the vvt springs in the face…..they’re very strong, under a lot of pressure and they have two very long, very sharp legs on them. Would be a real bad day to have one come loose and stab you right in the eyeball….


----------



## IamNotImportant

IamNotImportant said:


> my cabinet for the VFD came in today, still waiting on some switches to arrive, my 24vdc switches are here, but the 240v on isn't yet.


pics of it mounted


----------



## IamNotImportant

WobblyHand said:


> Agree with you 100%.  I only get stuff from Amazon if I have to.  These days, they often are not the lowest cost.


though i did get the box posted above at a good price i felt


----------



## erikmannie

I scoured eBay for deals on **Victor brand** new (or new open box) Series 1 cutting tips. I found deals on one #00 tip, two #0 tips, two #1 tips, & one #2 tip. The average landed cost was only $13.98 each!

Example:


----------



## IamNotImportant

a bunch of my switches came in yesterday, but this one, how do you get this one apart to mount it in the box, i know about the screw that holds the bottom part on, but the square part and the round part, i have no clue how to get it apart to mount it.. i feel so dumb


----------



## pontiac428

It looks like the panel nut threads off, but the button head is in the way.  Surplus from the Chinese space program?


----------



## Eyerelief

pontiac428 said:


> It looks like the panel nut threads off, but the button head is in the way.  Surplus from the Chinese space program?


Ive heard of these.  During manufacturing, they set the button on a stand first, then build a switch around it.


----------



## IamNotImportant




----------



## Mill Lee farm

hard to see in the blurry pics. do the four white tabs hold it in?

what turns on the threads? I assume the ribbed nut turns on the threads? Do those white tabs rotate at all? 
(looks like there are outer black tabs that locate it and keep it from rotating?)


----------



## Weldingrod1

No, the little silver latch let's go of the switch body. Common design.

Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk


----------



## Mill Lee farm

does this work?


----------



## IamNotImportant

Mill Lee farm said:


> does this work?


nope, but the other switches have a lever to release it... this one


----------



## IamNotImportant

Weldingrod1 said:


> No, the little silver latch let's go of the switch body. Common design.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk


----------



## IamNotImportant

took the silver tabs out, still no love!


----------



## JohnDB

It's supposed to mount to the door of the box. 
Either a ½ or ¾ inch hole *trade sized* for electrical conduit. Use a metal hole saw and a drill and make a hole like you are an electrician.   

The back part just hangs in the air.  You might need to use a metal lock washer to hold the switch in place....then the black one I see already on the switch.  But the black one is probably more than sufficient to hold it in place.   Secure the wires to the panel door with a sticky back and zip ties.  And make sure that you leave enough length of the wires for the door to be free to open. 
Also secure the wires in such a fashion as they don't get into a rats nest or interfere with any other switches.


----------



## IamNotImportant

JohnDB said:


> It's supposed to mount to the door of the box.
> Either a ½ or ¾ inch hole *trade sized* for electrical conduit. Use a metal hole saw and a drill and make a hole like you are an electrician.
> 
> The back part just hangs in the air.  You might need to use a metal lock washer to hold the switch in place....then the black one I see already on the switch.  But the black one is probably more than sufficient to hold it in place.   Secure the wires to the panel door with a sticky back and zip ties.  And make sure that you leave enough length of the wires for the door to be free to open.
> Also secure the wires in such a fashion as they don't get into a rats nest or interfere with any other switches.


no honey, it is a 22mm required hole, the lock washer is under the top of the switch it is supposed to be tightened to keep in place. If you look the threaded part is where the washer is tightened up.. that top part should come off, but for the life of me i can not figure out how it releases. Don't need any other "lock washer". it goes in a box to send the power to the VFD


----------



## great white

IamNotImportant said:


> no honey, it is a 22mm required hole, the lock washer is under the top of the switch it is supposed to be tightened to keep in place. If you look the threaded part is where the washer is tightened up.. that top part should come off, but for the life of me i can not figure out how it releases. Don't need any other "lock washer". it goes in a box to send the power to the VFD


Looks like it's either a "one way push" deal or perhaps a turn/cam/tab to remove:


----------



## IamNotImportant

great white said:


> Looks like it's either a "one way push" deal or perhaps a turn/cam/tab to remove:
> 
> View attachment 429138


yeah that's the switch


----------



## IamNotImportant

i think that i see what is holding it in, looking at the "square" pc, on the east and west side of the hole, you can see it looks like a "clip"


----------



## JohnDB

A 22mm hole is just a ½ trade size or ⅝ hole.  Or is it ¾ trade size which is ⅞"? (Been a while since I had to do the conversions between metric and SAE) 

It mounts to the door with the button on the outside and the mechanism on the inside of the box.  The back plate I see removed holds the switch in place and the threaded black washer holds it securely.   All the locations for the wires is accessible once you put it all together.   And you won't have to open the box to get power to the VFD.


----------



## IamNotImportant

that did it, once i knew where to apply pressure,


----------



## JohnDB

New part I hadn't seen yet....
But it looks like you got it now.


----------



## Mill Lee farm

Pics of the release mechanism and it apart please?
I'm too invested not to know! LOL


----------



## IamNotImportant

Mill Lee farm said:


> Pics of the release mechanism and it apart please?
> I'm too invested not to know! LOL


see this pic, see the pc on the right, the squarish thing, in the hole in the middle on the east and west side of that hole, there is a lil clip, with the switch together, you place small flat blade screw driver and pry the column from the clip and up it comes


----------



## Mill Lee farm

You mean these two curved tabs?


----------



## IamNotImportant

Mill Lee farm said:


> You mean these two curved tabs?


yes


----------



## Mill Lee farm

Excellent!
(& now it’s obvious for posterity HA!)

And to stop cluttering up the thread and bring it back on course:

I received another @mattthemuppet2  Muppet-Lump the other day!

Lots o’ good taps, chucks and threading jnsert tools!

Photos tomorrow maybe


----------



## IamNotImportant

Mill Lee farm said:


> Excellent!
> (& now it’s obvious for posterity HA!)
> 
> And to stop cluttering up the thread and bring it back on course:
> 
> I received another @mattthemuppet2  Muppet-Lump the other day!
> 
> Lots o’ good taps, chucks and threading jnsert tools!
> 
> Photos tomorrow maybe


i need to some stuff for my lathe.. inserts and holders


----------



## Janderso

erikmannie said:


> I scoured eBay for deals on **Victor brand** new (or new open box) Series 1 cutting tips. I found deals on one #00 tip, two #0 tips, two #1 tips, & one #2 tip. The average landed cost was only $13.98 each!
> 
> Example:
> 
> View attachment 428768


That's a heck of a deal.
It's not a counterfit part??
You scored man.


----------



## erikmannie

Janderso said:


> That's a heck of a deal.
> It's not a counterfit part??
> You scored man.



It arrived, & all signs point to a counterfeit. Of the two tips that I have received so far that I purchased on eBay, one was this counterfeit.
















I think I am going to stick to trusted Sellers. An example of a trusted seller is CyberWeld. They sell this same tip for $16.93 + tax & shipping.


----------



## erikmannie

Here is that Seller’s response:

“We are sorry to hear our listers have misidentified this item. I have checked our inventory for the correct item and unfortunately, we do not have them currently. Please open a return request for a full refund. There will be no need to send the incorrect item back. Again, our apologies for this inconvenience.”

Update: 

They sent me a full refund very quickly, & allowed me to keep the cheap tip. It will be interesting to see if the Chinese tip performs more poorly than the Victor brand tips.


----------



## JohnDB

erikmannie said:


> Here is that Seller’s response:
> 
> “We are sorry to hear our listers have misidentified this item. I have checked our inventory for the correct item and unfortunately, we do not have them currently. Please open a return request for a full refund. There will be no need to send the incorrect item back. Again, our apologies for this inconvenience.”
> 
> Update:
> 
> They sent me a full refund very quickly, & allowed me to keep the cheap tip. It will be interesting to see if the Chinese tip performs more poorly than the Victor brand tips.


Oh I'm sure that they sensed the sharks swirling around them.  Occasionally the roar from a crowd of "little people" gets the notice of those with more power.


----------



## WobblyHand

The magic word to use is _counterfeit_.  It states in bold letters at least for eBay that they do not allow counterfeit goods to be knowingly sold.  Usually any claim of receiving counterfeit goods from an eBay seller is rapidly resolved, almost always in the buyer's favor.  I have had to use the claim only a couple of times, but received refunds on those items.  

I will buy stuff that is low cost and possibly a knockoff, but I have learned to check the item out rather vigorously.  If it functions well enough then it is good.  If it doesn't meet standards like matching the listing description or listing picture then a return is initiated.  Got burned on a morse taper - it was counterfeit, it didn't match any morse taper, but it was made to look like one.  Unfortunately for me, I got it and put it away as I didn't have an immediate use.  The 30 days went by and I was out of luck.  Now I check everything that I receive to make sure it is correct, even from reputable suppliers, because it seems they have outsourced quality inspection to the buyer.


----------



## Janderso

Dang man,
Sorry to hear it’s a fake.


----------



## Winegrower

I have always hated emptying the Delta dust collector…you lift off the motor/bag assembly, don’t have anyplace to put it, fumble around, kick the barrel out with your foot, set the motor/bag down, but the bag is full and it doesn’t sit right, then emptying the bag is messy because the bag is on the floor, remember, so it has to be held over the barrel and unzipped to dump, dust everywhere, and so on.

So today a chain hoist arrived.  $50 delivered, 1 ton rating.   I had some aircraft cable that was intended for a zipline a decade or more ago…not happening…so I repurposed the cable and strung the thing up.  

Now I can lift the motor/bag, rool out and empty the barrel, reposition it under the suspended bag and yes, there’s still some dust around, but way less.


----------



## wachuko

Winegrower said:


> I have always hated emptying the Delta dust collector…you lift off the motor/bag assembly, don’t have anyplace to put it, fumble around, kick the barrel out with your foot, set the motor/bag down, but the bag is full and it doesn’t sit right, then emptying the bag is messy because the bag is on the floor, remember, so it has to be held over the barrel and unzipped to dump, dust everywhere, and so on.
> 
> So today a chain hoist arrived.  $50 delivered, 1 ton rating.   I had some aircraft cable that was intended for a zipline a decade or more ago…not happening…so I repurposed the cable and strung the thing up.
> 
> Now I can lift the motor/bag, rool out and empty the barrel, reposition it under the suspended bag and yes, there’s still some dust around, but way less.
> 
> View attachment 429311


I am saving this photo!  I like the changes made to the press!  Saving for implementing ideas on mine.  Cool.


----------



## slow-poke

Guess what I bought today....


----------



## wachuko

slow-poke said:


> Guess what I bought today....


A Starrett Tap Wrench to get rid of those?


----------



## keeena

A bit of a score today: found a Suburban Tool sine vise on FBM. I was surprised nobody had scooped it up yet because it was priced very well and in exceptional condition. Seller was a retired machinist who was clearing out his kit. I ended up getting a more than I expected...




The seller has a 12x12 surface plate he wanted to give me but I have limited space and didn't want to be greedy. If anyone up here in New England needs it: shoot me a message and I'll get you in touch with him.


----------



## CJ5Dave

Bought this big ol Robinair vacuum pump off Craigslist to wet form holsters.


----------



## extropic

@keeena 
Nice haul there, at any reasonable price.


----------



## erikmannie

You never want to trust eBay to sell genuine products. Of the 5 “Victor brand” tips that I have received, 2 have been forgeries.




I looked at the items that he is selling. He has gobs of cutting tips claimed as genuine Victor brand. This is a full-blown counterfeit operation!

Update: I took the time to report both sellers to eBay for selling counterfeit items.


----------



## erikmannie

I refilled one of my 80 ft.³ oxygen cylinders, & then purchased another 80 ft.³ customer owned cylinder full of oxygen. Cost was $390.82 for all the above. I use it for gas welding, brazing & torch cutting.

I was able to get this errand in before I worked a long shift.

I went to Matheson Gas. I am very happy with Matheson Gas. Great products and service, but no bargains that I have ever seen.


----------



## erikmannie

I used a “$15 off purchase of $85 or more” coupon code + [spent just over $100 to get free shipping] to buy:

4 of these









						Best Welds Large Magnetic Holder - M-063
					

Anchor Large Magnetic Holders are designed to work as an extra hand. Capable of holding sheet and tube at angles of 45 degrees, 90 degrees, and 135 degrees all wrapped up in a compact design to allow for use in tight places.




					bakersgas.com
				




and 4 of these









						Best Welds Extra Large Magnetic Holder - M-065
					

Anchor Extra Large Magnetic Holders are designed to work as an extra hand. Capable of holding sheet and tube at angles of 45 degrees, 90 degrees, and 135 degrees all wrapped up in a compact design to allow for use in tight places.




					bakersgas.com
				







Baker’s Gas has great service. Only after I made the purchase did I realize that the medium size is marked down much, much more than is the extra large size:









						Best Welds Medium Magnetic Holder - M-061
					

Anchor Medium Magnetic Holders are designed to work as an extra hand. Capable of holding sheet and tube at angles of 45 degrees, 90 degrees, and 135 degrees all wrapped up in a compact design to allow for use in tight places.




					bakersgas.com
				




Too late now!

And now I see that it says “Do not use with DC current when welding.” I would say that I have made a terrible mistake, but I have used these with both DC polarities. I just tolerated the arc blow for the tack welds, & then removed the magnets after the joint is tacked.


----------



## slow-poke

wachuko said:


> A Starrett Tap Wrench to get rid of those?
> 
> View attachment 429359


Wachuko,
That "Hurts", I love good quality tools and have a growing selection with a few junkie pieces here and there. When the tap handle broke, I took a peek on eBay for a good used one and saw something similar, problem was that i needed a replacement now, so I replaced with what was available locally. I will be keeping my eyes open for a better one.

Every time I pick that thing up I'm going to be thinking about the Starrett.


----------



## mmcmdl

Strange . I got a message you quoted my post . It shows up as the message above .


----------



## pontiac428

erikmannie said:


> And now I see that it says “Do not use with DC current when welding.” I would say that I have made a terrible mistake, but I have used these with both DC polarities. I just tolerated the arc blow for the tack welds, & then removed the magnets after the joint is tacked.



Hmm, lemme think... what polarity would you use for a magnetic base metal?


----------



## ChazzC

Discovered "Sorensen Center-Mike" on another thread (https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/tricks-of-the-trade-when-aligning-things.103206/post-998527), so of course I needed one. Found on Etsy in better shape than what I saw on eBay (and a little lower cost):

Etsy:​​

After cleaning and giving it a coat of Renaissance Wax:​​The box I had (yes, the instruction plaque isn't centered, but it does cover a blemish in the lid).​​


----------



## sdavilla

Well did not buy it today but finally finished some mods and did the 1st cuts.






This will be such fun.


----------



## finsruskw

Going to pull the trigger on one of these for Christmas.
Will mount on the JTM-2
Best price I could find and has free shipping to boot!
Marry Christmas to me!! 





__





						Loading…
					





					www.amazon.com


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## erikmannie

finsruskw said:


> Going to pull the trigger on one of these for Christmas.
> Will mount on the JTM-2
> Best price I could find and has free shipping to boot!
> Marry Christmas to me!!
> 
> 
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> www.amazon.com






I have that exact same brand on my x-, y- and z- axes. Be advised that the rapid feed button can get stuck in the down (i.e. activated) position! This may be because I often use cutting fluid (dark thread cutting oil). After this happened to me a couple of times, I have a rule to *never use the rapid feed buttons*. When I want to feed rapid, I just turn the pot up all the way.

Other than that, they are spectacular. They are very durable, & the range of speeds is what you would want.


----------



## maticulus

A few days ago received brand new sealed in package, 293-345-30, 1-2" mic. I was watching it on ebay after purchasing the 0-1" model new in the same series (344) at a good price, and noticed the seller marked it down from $190 to $100. That was a no brainer. It's identical to the 0-1 except for the size.
   It was discounted apparently because, it's surplus and the case was lost, which is the only downer because the black ABS case that came with the other mic is very nice. I also just noticed with this fresh picture, there's a crack in the cover, which initially looked like a slight color variation. It's on the mark calibration wise by comparison to the other mic using the reference and test measurements. Perhaps the case was damaged instead. There was no mention as to its whereabouts. The feel and operation as well as the metal ratcheting thimble is very nice, compared to my equivalent Fowler non digital mic with the plastic ratcheting thimble. I am definitely a fan of Mitu now.






  Today; Frontier #42261, 1300 lb capacity 48" adjustable workbench on sale $150 shipped from Walmart (beware of browser price hikes, it came up $200 in BRAVE on walmart's site, I purchased it in Chrome). I'm going to brace-box it in a bit for more leg rigidity, put adjustable casters on it, and add some 1/4" steel plating to the top and mount the incoming PM1228 to it.


----------



## erikmannie

I finally got a chance to photograph the stuff I got from @mattthemuppet2 

I got all of this for $128, including shipping.













Matt has amazing deals. He didn’t sell this to me by the pound, but my cost was only three dollars/pound.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

And I got rid of a whole box of stuff, so I was pleased as punch


----------



## Eyerelief

Found a 20N while on a website that sells used medical equipment.  Just knew that they really didn’t have it, but as usual I was wrong. 

I don’t know how long it had been sitting, it adjusted with lots of resistance. The grease inside had turned to stone. Sellers pic:



Removed the Jacobs 5MT shank. No need for that. Disassembled, soaked in the parts washer overnight but the varnished grease was unfazed. Had to clean each component including the bearings with a brass brush and carb cleaner.  Used a scotchbrite as the chuck spun on the lathe. 








I’d hate to be the patient that a doctor felt the need to use a 10 pound drill chuck on.


----------



## erikmannie

A genuine Victor welding nozzle will usually set you back at least $50, but curiously Amazon had this one particular size (#0 for a 100 Series torch) for only $12.99! I picked up three of them.



			https://www.amazon.com/Victor-0324-0070-Professional-Welding-Nozzle/dp/B005ENSYJ2?ref_=ast_sto_dp
		


This is for a medium sized combination torch. This size is recommended for gas welding 1/32” to 5/64” (i.e. .031” to .078”) thick steel.




I have only ever used econo-import welding nozzles (about $10 each) because I didn’t want to spend $50 for a Victor one.


----------



## DLF

Wiha VDE adjustable torque screwdriver set. Ideal for electrical consumer unit work.

Not really machining related, but still a sweet tool.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			








Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## WobblyHand

DLF said:


> Wiha VDE adjustable torque screwdriver set. Ideal for electrical consumer unit work.
> 
> Not really machining related, but still a sweet tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk


Wiha makes some nice tools.


----------



## FOMOGO

I bought the Vevor 400 inlb Chinese version for a $134+ free shipping, and installed it on the Z axis of my BP. It looks identical to the Align, and works great. No issues with the rapid sticking. Mike



erikmannie said:


> View attachment 429560
> 
> 
> I have that exact same brand on my x-, y- and z- axes. Be advised that the rapid feed button can get stuck in the down (i.e. activated) position! This may be because I often use cutting fluid (dark thread cutting oil). After this happened to me a couple of times, I have a rule to *never use the rapid feed buttons*. When I want to feed rapid, I just turn the pot up all the way.
> 
> Other than that, they are spectacular. They are very durable, & the range of speeds is what you would want.


----------



## erikmannie

Update on my communications with one of the sellers on eBay they sent me a counterfeit cutting tip:

I said this:




His response:




His next message says “F&$@ing terd”, but spelled out.

I left negative feedback for both sellers, & reported both to eBay for selling counterfeit items. The other seller sent me this response after I did that:

“All of our listings are acquired from unclaimed freight auctions. Therefore, we cannot be sure they are 100% new or if it is missing parts and pieces ,   We do not test them and do not have any technical knowledge of the items . eBay is aware of what we sell so thank you .”

I can only imagine how horrified they must be to find out that there are counterfeit items in their inventory! Not.


----------



## NCjeeper

Looks like you upset the scammers apple cart.


----------



## erikmannie

NCjeeper said:


> Looks like you upset the scammers apple cart.



And these will remain in their feedback forever:


----------



## rwdenney

In the wristwatch world, where counterfeits are rife, there is a saying: buy the seller. 

Yes, I bought a counterfeit Mitutoyo vernier caliper, and was told to keep it after the refund. It’s accurate enough so I keep it at in the house for occasional use. But they made it accurate by bending parts, which was easy to see in the metal. 

Rick “verify then trust” Denney


----------



## erikmannie

I was watching the item below, and the Seller sent me an offer for 25% off. Today one of my customers gave me a $50 Christmas bonus, so I bought this (hopefully genuine) Victor welding nozzle:




This is for gas welding 3/64” to 3/32” (.047” to .094”) thick steel. The project that I am working on now has a large number of 3/32” joints.

I will use this on a 300 Series combination torch (I have a 315FC+), which I consider to be a large torch.


----------



## rwdenney

I was concerned about the damage to clothing, and bought this on Amazon. $38. 




It’s heavy suede leather lined with some cheapie fabric on the backside. Strap and clasp works well. Very inexpensive for the quality. 

Rick “wife wanted one after seeing mine” Denney


----------



## erikmannie

I received another counterfeit Victor tip from an eBay seller today. I bought six tips from six different sellers, & exactly 50% of them were counterfeits.







… and all 3 Sellers have this noted in their feedback, as well as reported to eBay.


----------



## NCjeeper

Interesting that it says "Victor style" printed on it.


----------



## erikmannie

NCjeeper said:


> Interesting that it says "Victor style" printed on it.



I thought that was interesting, too. The genuine Victor cutting tips also have that printed on it. To be Victor brand is one thing, & to be for a Victor style cutting torch is a second data point.


----------



## rwdenney

I needed a box that I can put next to the lathe for bits, tools, and miscellaneous stuff. Got a good deal on this:




It may be too tall for the spot I envisioned, but I have a slightly shorter Kennedy 520 box that I have not yet put into service that will work, and this one can go on the clock bench where I had put the Kennedy. Or something like that. I have yet to discover the limit of the tool box need, though finding a place for all of them isn't one of the lighter matters.

Rick "still pondering a stand-up shelf for behind the lathe" Denney


----------



## erikmannie

Auction Sniper deal on eBay. There were no bids for the entire listing, & then my snipe came in 5 seconds before the listing ended. Auction sniper charges 50 cents for this service.




This will be used on a Victor 300 Series torch to gas weld 1/16” to 1/8” thick steel.


----------



## mickri

Buy probably isn't the right term here.  I do all of my own canvas and sail repair on my sailboat.  My grandmother's ancient straight stitch Singer works for most stuff.  It dates to the pre WWII. But for some stuff you need a zig zag machine.  Back in the day these old Pfaff 130's were the go to portable zig zag machine to get for sail and canvas repair if you could find one at a decent price.  Haven't been made since the 1950's and still command a hefty price if it is in good condition. 

So I see an add on CL for one where the guy is asking $100 for a Pfaff 130 along with some old treadle sewing machine bases.  I didn't want the bases.  Just the Pfaff 130.  Call the guy up and in our conversation he wants to know what I want to do with the machine.  I tell that I am going to put it back into working condition and use to repair sails and canvas on my sailboat.  He tells me he will give me the machine for free.

Picked it up today.  It is dirty and gummed up.  But it is all original with no apparent broken parts.  Even the paint looks decent under all of the dirt.  Another project added to the never ending list.  This project goes to the top of the list because I need it to do some work on one of my sails.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Just part of the stuff that i bought today
i have made a request for repair and calibration


Same with the Mit


got these stones 


These Mics
Had to adjust them.. they are right on now.. the counter and the electronics don't work but the rest of em is good to go! 


These pamphlets


a whole bunch of endmills




Tools for the lathe


these tap holders and the V-Block



this combo stuff (that's not all of it)


And another Kennedy tool box and a vintage Craftsman Machinist Tool Box as well.. there is more, it just happens to be sitting in some evaporust right now.. will clean them up in the morning..


----------



## mattthemuppet2

the digit counter on that digimike might not be working because it's not in mesh with the spindle. You can take the cover off of the counter, undo a screw and gently push the counter up towards the spindle until the gear on it meshes. That's also how you zero it with the mic fully at zero.


----------



## IamNotImportant

mattthemuppet2 said:


> the digit counter on that digimike might not be working because it's not in mesh with the spindle. You can take the cover off of the counter, undo a screw and gently push the counter up towards the spindle until the gear on it meshes. That's also how you zero it with the mic fully at zero.


thank you Matt, will look at that sir


----------



## IamNotImportant

mattthemuppet2 said:


> the digit counter on that digimike might not be working because it's not in mesh with the spindle. You can take the cover off of the counter, undo a screw and gently push the counter up towards the spindle until the gear on it meshes. That's also how you zero it with the mic fully at zero.


took the cover off.. LOL.. it's missing! the windows for the numbers are fogged up.. why i couldn't tell.. but it is gone


----------



## mattthemuppet2

oh bum, that sucks. Certainly will explain why it doesn't work though...


----------



## mickri

Follow up on my Pfaff 130.  Found a manual online and downloaded it.  Took a damp rag and wiped most of the dirt off.  Then generously oiled all of the spots the manual said to oil.  Carefully tried moving things and things started to free up.  The motor even worked briefly.  Needs a new belt.  Prices all over the map for a belt.  $5 to over $50.   Probably needs a new foot control too.  Still have some things to work on.  Doesn't look like it will take much work to get it in working condition.


----------



## Aaron David

Not todays purchase, but I did find some appropriate legs for my 6" shaper:



Here is one pair in front of the makeshift table that it is currently on. The plan is too have the sides of 3/4" ply to help with shear, while the top is going to be a pair of 2x12's sistered together for a table. Should be plenty stout, and it will all sit on a WEN roll-around so I can make the most of my small shop. 

I did, however, order the the butcher block counter that I am going to use for my new (to me) lathe. That is going to sit on the legs and center drawer section of an old tanker desk I just disassembled. So, things are moving right along!


----------



## Aukai

The sewing machine guy is a cool dude, nice score.  Given the rarity, and that it is exactly what you need.


----------



## Winegrower

I just finished the Hemingway tailstock die holder…lemme say that is a terrific design, the way the clutch works it can work right up to a shoulder under power, check it out.   But, then I needed some 1’ adjustable HSS dies…these can be expensive, but drillsandcutters.com has them for about $8 each, and they are good quality, no problem tapping 303 stainless in 7/16” and 1/2” sizes.   I got NC and NF, 1/4” to a half by eighths.


----------



## IamNotImportant

Here is some more of that stuff i bought yesterday
a bunch of drill bits


This one i believe is a fake one, though it has a sticker on the back saying it was made in Japan, if it is real, i would like to get it fixed.. the battery corroded in it. It is very tight when trying to slide it. 




Some of the stuff that i had to remove some rust from it


----------



## great white

mickri said:


> Buy probably isn't the right term here.  I do all of my own canvas and sail repair on my sailboat.  My grandmother's ancient straight stitch Singer works for most stuff.  It dates to the pre WWII. But for some stuff you need a zig zag machine.  Back in the day these old Pfaff 130's were the go to portable zig zag machine to get for sail and canvas repair if you could find one at a decent price.  Haven't been made since the 1950's and still command a hefty price if it is in good condition.
> 
> So I see an add on CL for one where the guy is asking $100 for a Pfaff 130 along with some old treadle sewing machine bases.  I didn't want the bases.  Just the Pfaff 130.  Call the guy up and in our conversation he wants to know what I want to do with the machine.  I tell that I am going to put it back into working condition and use to repair sails and canvas on my sailboat.  He tells me he will give me the machine for free.
> 
> Picked it up today.  It is dirty and gummed up.  But it is all original with no apparent broken parts.  Even the paint looks decent under all of the dirt.  Another project added to the never ending list.  This project goes to the top of the list because I need it to do some work on one of my sails.
> 
> View attachment 429891


Cool. I’ve got its “third cousin”, the Singer 319W/K:




Singer licensed the Pfaff 130 patent to make the 206/306 machines, which were “redesigned” (ie: body was remade to look more “contemporary”) into the 319/320 machines.

Great workhorses, crazy amount of different stitches for 1957-ish.

Heck, it will even embroider if you‘re brave enough to try. Drop the dogs, install the embroidering plate and go to it! All manual though, you have to do it all by hand movements. No punching a phrase into a computer and letting the machine go nuts. I wouldn’t bet against it being capable of any stitch besides edge sergering.

The only issue is they use a shorter tip  “206x13” needle instead of a standard 15x1 size in order to comply with the conditions of the Pfaff patent license deal. Basically, the singer couldn’t be “identical in function” as the Pfaff design. Easily fixed with a little adjustment to the bobbin case and a slight timing adjustment. Some report you don’t even need to touch the timing, but I’m pretty retentive about proper hook/shuttle alignment. Nothing worse than a dropped stitch halfway through a leather seat panel….

I was lucky enough to buy mine for 150 bucks. Came with everything. Orginal singer cabinet, manuals, needles, full set of stitch cams, spare parts for just about every wearing part, ultra rare double needle (I refuse to use it for fear of breaking it), etc, etc. Turns out the guy who owned it was clearing out his fathers collection after he passed and just wanted it all gone. Grabbed a bunch of machines that day, but left a few rare ones behind. Wish every day I’d just bought it all and tossed it in my truck. Oh well, live and learn….

I’d say its my best machine, with my White rotary a close second.

I use my Singer 331k105 walking foot :




(sometimes called a “lagging/kicking/hopping” foot) for heavy work like canvas and leather, although the 319 and white would probably punch through just as well. They just wouldn’t advance the material as well as the walking foot, although adding a roller foot attachment makes them pretty close. the 331 came with a clutch motor, which I eventually changed out for a servo motor. Best addition to the machine ever!

What I really wish I had was the industrial singers with walking foot and needle feed. They sew just about anything and are highly prized by upholstery and leather shops (ie: $$$$).


----------



## wayback machine

Since we're speaking of Pfaff 130's - We got this a couple years ago, from a lady that was using it as a plant stand, and thought it was a nice antique, but useless, otherwise ......... Machine was totally stuck, but now machine and stand run as smooth as silk.
The paperwork in the drawer said it was originally from a dealer in Heidelberg Gemany - The lady I bought it from said _she_ got it from the wife of a USAF officer, who brought it back to the US when he retired.

My wife has a floor loom, and she likes to sew together fabric she weaves on the loom, with this machine - 
That way she can say that everything was hand and foot made :~)

It needs to have the stand refinished - It's on my to-do list .........


----------



## francist

I’m still waiting for one to show up for me here. They show up in Vancouver area quite frequently but getting it to the Island adds another $150 to the price tag so I’m biding my time until one appears locally.


----------



## rwdenney

IamNotImportant said:


> ...
> This one i believe is a fake one, though it has a sticker on the back saying it was made in Japan, if it is real, i would like to get it fixed.. the battery corroded in it. It is very tight when trying to slide it.
> View attachment 429948
> 
> View attachment 429949
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...



The one screw head I can see appears to be a JIS head, not a conventional philips, so that is a point in its favor. The Chinese knockoffs and fakes that I have see use conventional philips screws, and not very well made ones at that. As I recall, the serial number should also be on the box and at least they used to be engraved/stamped on the slide. On the fake that I received, the numbers were all different. But I'm not really knowledgeable on Mitutoyo's serial number schemes.

Rick "JIS heads have sharper inside corners" Denney


----------



## IamNotImportant

rwdenney said:


> The one screw head I can see appears to be a JIS head, not a conventional philips, so that is a point in its favor. The Chinese knockoffs and fakes that I have see use conventional philips screws, and not very well made ones at that. As I recall, the serial number should also be on the box and at least they used to be engraved/stamped on the slide. On the fake that I received, the numbers were all different. But I'm not really knowledgeable on Mitutoyo's serial number schemes.
> 
> Rick "JIS heads have sharper inside corners" Denney


it was sitting inside a wooden Mitutoyo box


----------



## IamNotImportant

rwdenney said:


> The one screw head I can see appears to be a JIS head, not a conventional philips, so that is a point in its favor. The Chinese knockoffs and fakes that I have see use conventional philips screws, and not very well made ones at that. As I recall, the serial number should also be on the box and at least they used to be engraved/stamped on the slide. On the fake that I received, the numbers were all different. But I'm not really knowledgeable on Mitutoyo's serial number schemes.
> 
> Rick "JIS heads have sharper inside corners" Denney


after looking at several others, i still believe that this one is fake, good thing i wasn't really trying to get this.. for all the stuff that is these pics, and there is still more i have not posted.. i only paid 360 for everything.. which i felt like it as fair at the time.. 
As for the Mit dial indicator and the elect caliper, i have found a place that has the parts and can fix both.. that will be great


----------



## wachuko

slow-poke said:


> Wachuko,
> That "Hurts", I love good quality tools and have a growing selection with a few junkie pieces here and there. When the tap handle broke, I took a peek on eBay for a good used one and saw something similar, problem was that i needed a replacement now, so I replaced with what was available locally. I will be keeping my eyes open for a better one.
> 
> Every time I pick that thing up I'm going to be thinking about the Starrett.


Apologies about the pain caused… it will heal with time.

I just like the quality feel of the Starrett…


----------



## mksj

Been looking at the Makita 40V cordless tools, my Bosch drill is an older 12V model and the batteries are getting to the end of their live,  I already replaced the chuck/gear reduction unit. Got a flyer that one of the local hardware stores was having a Makita Tool Caravan Sale, which gave an additional $150 off the discounted impact drill/driver set price and an additional two 40V 4A batteries which normally sell for $199 a piece. Sale price was $299 for their GT200D kit and the two additional batteries, couldn't let that one slip by at that price. I am amazed at how compact the new designs are and the motors are all brushless with all metal gear drives.


----------



## pontiac428

Makita has always been good to me, but why didn't you replace Bosch with Bosch?  The new lithium brushless gear is amazing no matter what, but Bosch drills are made in Switzerland or one of the former eastern bloc EU factories.  They come with Rohm chucks, even!

Asian power tools be like, this Makita is made by X who used to be Y and bought out Z, who is part of the group that controls company A, who has voting stock in company B, who is now owned by company C, who changed their name back to Makita in 2021, right?


----------



## IamNotImportant

https://www.amazon.com/GDX18V-1800B...?keywords=bosch+drills&qid=1671065957&sr=8-20 Just going to have to order that one


----------



## erikmannie

This new, open box #4 gas welding nozzle was on eBay for $34. I offered $30, & they accepted. With tax + shipping it came out to $32.78.




This goes on a large combination torch, & is used to weld 3/16”-1/4” steel.


----------



## erikmannie

All things for a medium (100 Series) torch: one new, open box Victor 1350 cutting attachment (eBay), plus assorted new Victor cutting tips & welding nozzles (Cyberweld). The cutting attachment was a smokin’ deal, pun intended. Cyberweld is a good source for Victor cutting tips & welding nozzles, with okay prices, free shipping & no worries about receiving counterfeit parts.




Now if I can only find time to get out in the shop! Lately, it is all work & no play Mon-Sat with family obligations on Sundays. After Christmas, all Saturdays & Sundays will be full shop days which I am *very* much looking forward to.


----------



## pontiac428

Today, I bought a tool.  I didn't overpay or get a counterfeit, it was a straight transaction.  As it should be.

Now I can find my center in one more way.


----------



## G-ManBart

A local auction tempted me again!  They cancelled the preview with no notice (I actually went to it) so bidding was really low on most things. I got what turns out to be a somewhat older Yuasa 8" Super Spacer with a full set of plates for less than half of what a cheap eBay import would cost.  It took me a while to figure out what brand it is because the name tag is missing, but a couple of hours looking at pictures, and the only exact matches I can find are Yuasa.  It could stand a bit more cleaning (I gave it a quick scrub and scrape) but it is smoooooth and locks up tight.  I already have a couple of projects waiting for it.




I also picked up an 8" Wilton 1280N Verti-Lock machine vise.  I really don't need an 8" vise, but it was literally $71 out the door and I just couldn't pass it up (pictures to be added later).

Finally, I put a lowball bid on a "pile of steel" and got it for $65....wow, did I completely misjudge how much steel was there (and some aluminum)!  It took me three hours to load and almost two hours to unload!  This picture is about 2/3 of what I got....some was already put away when I thought to take a picture.  You have to look closely, but most everything is two or three deep in the pic.  Some really nice stuff is mostly hidden, like 1-1/2" round solid CRS, 2" round solid...very little angle, channel, or tubing.  To give you an idea of scale, the 8 cutoff pieces of hex are 2" or a bit bigger diameter.  There are a lot of projects just waiting in that pile!


----------



## IamNotImportant

G-ManBart said:


> A local auction tempted me again!  They cancelled the preview with no notice (I actually went to it) so bidding was really low on most things. I got what turns out to be a somewhat older Yuasa 8" Super Spacer with a full set of plates for less than half of what a cheap eBay import would cost.  It took me a while to figure out what brand it is because the name tag is missing, but a couple of hours looking at pictures, and the only exact matches I can find are Yuasa.  It could stand a bit more cleaning (I gave it a quick scrub and scrape) but it is smoooooth and locks up tight.  I already have a couple of projects waiting for it.
> 
> View attachment 430101
> 
> 
> I also picked up an 8" Wilton 1280N Verti-Lock machine vise.  I really don't need an 8" vise, but it was literally $71 out the door and I just couldn't pass it up (pictures to be added later).
> 
> Finally, I put a lowball bid on a "pile of steel" and got it for $65....wow, did I completely misjudge how much steel was there (and some aluminum)!  It took me three hours to load and almost two hours to unload!  This picture is about 2/3 of what I got....some was already put away when I thought to take a picture.  You have to look closely, but most everything is two or three deep in the pic.  Some really nice stuff is mostly hidden, like 1-1/2" round solid CRS, 2" round solid...very little angle, channel, or tubing.  To give you an idea of scale, the 8 cutoff pieces of hex are 2" or a bit bigger diameter.  There are a lot of projects just waiting in that pile!
> View attachment 430102


kudos to you.. nice haul


----------



## G-ManBart

IamNotImportant said:


> kudos to you.. nice haul


My back has other thoughts on the matter


----------



## IamNotImportant

G-ManBart said:


> My back has other thoughts on the matter


i hear you on that


----------



## paradox_pete

So, I've never posted to this thread before, but I just picked up a nice set of these cool Japanese C-Clamps...


The 3 in the box on the left are metric, covering 0-75mm.  The imperial ones cover 0-6in.  Altogether, I bought 9 of these "Clamps" 

These could use a little cleaning.  They mostly work pretty well, but have some surface crud on them.  I'm thinking Isopropyl and a brass brush to start, and possibly wd40 if that doesn't work, but I'm open to suggestions.  I think the crud might mostly be residue from the disintegrated foam in the boxes...

-Pete

Edit to add that they all came with the standards and wrenches, and a few had the instructions as well.  I was a bit suprised at that.


----------



## finsruskw

finsruskw said:


> Going to pull the trigger on one of these for Christmas.
> Will mount on the JTM-2
> Best price I could find and has free shipping to boot!
> Marry Christmas to me!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loading…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


Showed up today.
Was surprised to learn it was shipped from Precision Matthews in Coropolis, PA!
Are they dealers for the Align brand or is it part and parcel of that company?
Going to let Les open it later today when he gets home from this weeks run.
Afterall, he's the one that suggested I get one......over a year ago!!
Film at eleven!


----------



## G-ManBart

finsruskw said:


> Showed up today.
> Was surprised to learn it was shipped from Precision Matthews in Coropolis, PA!
> Are they dealers for the Align brand or is it part and parcel of that company?
> Going to let Les open it later today when he gets home from this weeks run.
> Afterall, he's the one that suggested I get one......over a year ago!!
> Film at eleven!


I don't know if there is any connection between Align and PM, but I stumbled on the fact that their eBay and Amazon user name is Quality Machine Tools.  I have power feeds for both X&Y on my "sooner, not later" list as well!


----------



## Mill Lee farm

paradox_pete said:


> These could use a little cleaning.  They mostly work pretty well, but have some surface crud on them.  I'm thinking Isopropyl and a brass brush to start, and possibly wd40 if that doesn't work, but I'm open to suggestions.  I think the crud might mostly be residue from the disintegrated foam in the boxes...


I just cleaned up some ‘C-clamps’ that had the icky deteriorated foam and general shop gunk on them. Isopropyl and a toothbrush worked well. Slightly less aggressive than brass brush. WD-40 sounds good. I used Tri-flo on the stubborn gunk with the same toothbrush.
Just takes a little patience as delicate work. 

Nice set!!!


----------



## ChazzC

Mill Lee farm said:


> I just cleaned up some ‘C-clamps’ that had the icky deteriorated foam and general shop gunk on them. Isopropyl and a toothbrush worked well. Slightly less aggressive than brass brush. WD-40 sounds good. I used Tri-flo on the stubborn gunk with the same toothbrush.
> Just takes a little patience as delicate work.
> 
> Nice set!!!


I try Isopropyl Alcohol before anything else and then go to Mineral Spirits. Cheap toothbrushes & Q-Tips, also disposable mascara brushes (3/16” +/- diameter spiral that work well cleaning small holes and the inside threads on C-Clamps):


----------



## extropic

ChazzC said:


> I try Isopropyl Alcohol before anything else and then go to Mineral Spirits. Cheap toothbrushes & Q-Tips, also disposable mascara brushes (3/16” +/- diameter spiral that work well cleaning small holes and the inside threads on C-Clamps):
> 
> View attachment 430175


Thanks you for introducing me to "disposable mascara brushes". I never would have thought of those key words.

Just a couple of days ago I went to a sporting goods store and bought some pistol and rifle bore/chamber cleaning brushes at $3-$4 each.
Sometimes I need the more aggressive gun brushes, but many times the mascara brushes will be perfectly adequate and two orders of magnitude less expensive.

I think introducing each other to products and sources is the best use of this thread. Thanks again.


----------



## ChazzC

extropic said:


> Thanks you for introducing me to "disposable mascara brushes". I never would have thought of those key words.
> 
> Just a couple of days ago I went to a sporting goods store and bought some pistol and rifle bore/chamber cleaning brushes at $3-$4 each.
> Sometimes I need the more aggressive gun brushes, but many times the mascara brushes will be perfectly adequate and two orders of magnitude less expensive.
> 
> I think introducing each other to products and sources is the best use of this thread. Thanks again.


Glad to help. I find a lot of stuff at American Science & Surplus, but always check Amazon & eBay just in case as sometimes the stuff isn't really "surplus."

I got one these kits last year when I had some larger holes to clean:




Well made for what they are, good selection of sizes and can run them in a drill/driver. Bet they would fit your weaponry.


----------



## extropic

@ChazzC 
You got me again.    
I ordered the brush kit and a bunch of the disposable brushes.
Thanks.


----------



## ChazzC

extropic said:


> @ChazzC
> You got me again.
> I ordered the brush kit and a bunch of the disposable brushes.
> Thanks.


Guess I’m going to need to set up a deal with Amazon like some YouTubers have so I get a commission!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Helping others spend their money should be reward enough


----------



## ChazzC

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Helping others spend their money should be reward enough


Yeees, but when you help you’re the one that gets the money.


----------



## IamNotImportant

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Helping others spend their money should be reward enough


----------



## Wvlarry

finsruskw said:


> Showed up today.
> Was surprised to learn it was shipped from Precision Matthews in Coropolis, PA!
> Are they dealers for the Align brand or is it part and parcel of that company?
> Going to let Les open it later today when he gets home from this weeks run.
> Afterall, he's the one that suggested I get one......over a year ago!!
> Film at eleven!


When I was looking for a replacement drive for my Bridgeport table feed, I found it was about 20/30 dollars cheaper dealing directly with Quality machine tools that buying thru Amazon even after paying shipping. I just need to pull the trigger and order it.


----------



## G-ManBart

As promised....follow-up pictures of the $71 Wilton Verti-Lock 1280N.  I gave it a 10 minute scrub, but it still could use some elbow grease.  It opens and closes smoothly and seems pretty decent.  They had two of these...now I regret not getting the other one.  I'm pretty sure the jaws aren't original...new replacements are $500 so I think these will get cleaned up on the surface grinder for now.   I may make a replacement set out of some O1 tool steel I have.  I'm set up for blacksmithing, so I can heat treat and temper then finish on the SG...should be good enough for hobby use.


----------



## erikmannie

I had 3 watched items on eBay, all from the same Seller. He sent me an offer of [9% off the listed prices & only pay one shipping charge]. I did actually plan on buying these sizes, and I was satisfied with this offer.

Three quantity NOS Victor welding nozzles: #’s 0, 00 and 000. These are for a large torch. These are for gas welding 1/32” to 5/64” (.031” to .078”) steel, or brazing similar thicknesses.

Here is the smallest one:




Victor brand nozzles cost *at least* 3-4 times as much as Chinesium nozzles. I paid $118.19 for only three tips!


----------



## erikmannie

25’ T-grade twin hose, BB fittings. This will be used for a medium-sized Victor O/A torch. I have one of these exact same hoses now; Blue Demon did a pretty good job with these.



			https://www.amazon.com/TWIN-WELDING-HOSE-GRADE-FITTINGS/dp/B08M7YZY3P/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?keywords=twin+gas+welding+hose%2C+grade+t&qid=1671252219&sr=8-12


----------



## Winegrower

I got a Bison 6” three jaw for the Takisawa.   I have an 8” three jaw, but this will close down a bit more, but most important it’s an A style mount, so bolts directly to the Takisawa spindle.   The 8” uses a backing plate that is fine but just a bit more work to swap in/out.

Seemed like a bargain, eBay new for $600.   We will see in a week or so.


----------



## erikmannie

Winegrower said:


> I got a Bison 6” three jaw for the Takisawa.   I have an 8” three jaw, but this will close down a bit more, but most important it’s an A style mount, so bolts directly to the Takisawa spindle.   The 8” uses a backing plate that is fine but just a bit more work to swap in/out.
> 
> Seemed like a bargain, eBay new for $600.   We will see in a week or so.
> 
> View attachment 430254



You scored! I really like the Polish tooling, especially the lathe chucks.


----------



## G-ManBart

erikmannie said:


> I had 3 watched items on eBay, all from the same Seller. He sent me an offer of [9% off the listed prices & only pay one shipping charge]. I did actually plan on buying these sizes, and I was satisfied with this offer.



Nice score on those.  For something like torch parts or important welding consumables the brand names are worth the money or time to find a bargain.

A while back I had something similar happen which made me watch a few more things and I got offers on a couple of them as well.  Now I make it a practice for things I'm interested in but aren't at the top of my priority list or are priced over what I'm willing to pay.  I've gotten some surprising offers...like 25% off a number of times.


----------



## finsruskw

Snagged this off E-bay yesterday.
It had been up for a week w/no bids.
The screw looks to be messed up at the step where it buts up against the body of the vice.
But.....hey......what didja expect for $65!!


----------



## mattthemuppet2

Kurt 6"? If so I think I have a rebuild kit for a D675 you can have for postage


----------



## finsruskw

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Kurt 6"? If so I think I have a rebuild kit for a D675 you can have for postage


Works for me!!
Yes, it's a D675
And thanks!
PM sent with contact info


----------



## ChazzC

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Kurt 6"? If so I think I have a rebuild kit for a D675 you can have for postage


There you go!


----------



## FOMOGO

-3 F this morning, buuuurrrr. Made the trip to Fort Collins yesterday. Twelve hrs. round trip over two 10k' passes, including loading up the machine. Saw some amazing Christmas lighting in the middle of nowhere. Today I have to move things around in the shop to make room for mill, get it unloaded with the backhoe, and clean out all the equipment from the truck, and trailer. Sun is shinning now and up to 20F. After I'm done, think I'm gonna take a day or two off. The mill is an Acra 10x54, 3hp, Variable speed 60-4200rpm, 3,420#. Has virtually no backlash in any axis and a totally clean table. Picked up the mill for $2250, and the vise, a Jacobs chuck, fly cutter, two insert cutter, full R-8 collet set, along with 162 end-mills in every flute count and size up to 3/4". Most of them still in wax, and only two that need sharpening for the princely sum of $150. Pretty happy with the purchase. Now I have to decide whether to sell the BP. Will post a few pics of the mill Once I get it inside. Cheers, Mike




https://i.imgur.com/AN7Evtg.jpg[/img]'] 
	

https://i.imgur.com/KmwDTpg.jpg[/img]'] 
	

https://i.imgur.com/KDMcCkR.jpg[/img]'] 
	

https://i.imgur.com/9PQ7iWC.jpg[/img]']


----------



## mattthemuppet2

mattthemuppet2 said:


> Kurt 6"? If so I think I have a rebuild kit for a D675 you can have for postage


Bum, I spoke too soon and can't find the darn thing  No doubt it'll show up in a few months when no one needs it!


----------



## IamNotImportant

FOMOGO said:


> -3 F this morning, buuuurrrr. Made the trip to Fort Collins yesterday. Twelve hrs. round trip over two 10k' passes, including loading up the machine. Saw some amazing Christmas lighting in the middle of nowhere. Today I have to move things around in the shop to make room for mill, get it unloaded with the backhoe, and clean out all the equipment from the truck, and trailer. Sun is shinning now and up to 20F. After I'm done, think I'm gonna take a day or two off. The mill is an Acra 10x54, 3hp, Variable speed 60-4200rpm, 3,420#. Has virtually no backlash in any axis and a totally clean table. Picked up the mill for $2250, and the vise, a Jacobs chuck, fly cutter, two insert cutter, full R-8 collet set, along with 162 end-mills in every flute count and size up to 3/4". Most of them still in wax, and only two that need sharpening for the princely sum of $150. Pretty happy with the purchase. Now I have to decide whether to sell the BP. Will post a few pics of the mill Once I get it inside. Cheers, Mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/AN7Evtg.jpg[/img]']
> 
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/KmwDTpg.jpg[/img]']
> 
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/KDMcCkR.jpg[/img]']
> 
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/9PQ7iWC.jpg[/img]']
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 430392


that mill has a "crowning" touch to it, instead of a ACRA, it looks more like a TREE


----------



## finsruskw

May I be the 1st to say.......
You Suck!!
Congrats on that!!
And all the goodies as well!!
Nice haul!!


----------



## ChazzC

FOMOGO said:


> -3 F this morning, buuuurrrr. Made the trip to Fort Collins yesterday. Twelve hrs. round trip over two 10k' passes, including loading up the machine. Saw some amazing Christmas lighting in the middle of nowhere. Today I have to move things around in the shop to make room for mill, get it unloaded with the backhoe, and clean out all the equipment from the truck, and trailer. Sun is shinning now and up to 20F. After I'm done, think I'm gonna take a day or two off. The mill is an Acra 10x54, 3hp, Variable speed 60-4200rpm, 3,420#. Has virtually no backlash in any axis and a totally clean table. Picked up the mill for $2250, and the vise, a Jacobs chuck, fly cutter, two insert cutter, full R-8 collet set, along with 162 end-mills in every flute count and size up to 3/4". Most of them still in wax, and only two that need sharpening for the princely sum of $150. Pretty happy with the purchase. Now I have to decide whether to sell the BP. Will post a few pics of the mill Once I get it inside. Cheers, Mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/AN7Evtg.jpg[/img]']


Beautiful scenery, but best viewed from afar, in a comfy chair, with the fire crackling and a suitable beverage close at hand. I'm still looking for a place with the ideal temperature range, 55°F — 75°F.

About ten years ago I had the widest temperature swing I experienced to date: Wednesday in Guayaquil, Ecuador 95F.; Thursday night in Denver -20°F. The coldest recorded temperature in Guayaquil was 61°F., and it is usually around 75°F. at night.


----------



## FOMOGO

I spent 20 winters in the Caribbean, and we recently sold are home there. Will probably take a month or two off this winter, and go to Arizona, or the Gulf coast. Haven't really been minding the weather much, and I get a lot done in the shop.  Mike


----------



## IamNotImportant

you think that a 4" facemill would be too big for the PM-833TV?


----------



## IamNotImportant

Would really like to know about this, i have found one i like that is for SEHT inserts.. good price and if it is useful enough to use on the 833, then i will buy it.


----------



## mattthemuppet2

I think with alu specific inserts taking a light cut in alu you would probably be fine, maybe even in steel. But steel specific inserts, not a chance on that mill, it'll be chatter city


----------



## IamNotImportant

mattthemuppet2 said:


> I think with alu specific inserts taking a light cut in alu you would probably be fine, maybe even in steel. But steel specific inserts, not a chance on that mill, it'll be chatter city


Thank you Matt, that is much appreciated. If anyone that might be able to use it, i will be happy to post a link to it


----------



## mattthemuppet2

You're welcome! For frame of reference, I can't use steel inserts in steel with my 2“ seht facemill on a 6*26 knee mill due to terrible chatter. My mill is probably a bit lighter than yours, but not by much


----------



## IamNotImportant

mattthemuppet2 said:


> You're welcome! For frame of reference, I can't use steel inserts in steel with my 2“ seht facemill on a 6*26 knee mill due to terrible chatter. My mill is probably a bit lighter than yours, but not by much


might opt for a GMT FM45

but the 4" is a TMX


----------



## mattthemuppet2

I think one of Glacern's 2" integral R8 shank F45 facemills would be an excellent choice. I would have bought one but at the time I was on a tight budget, so got a Chinese cheapie and made my own straight shank arbor.


----------



## finsruskw

This ought to be a tuffy.
M42 from Korea
1X2X4.5 3 FL


----------



## matthewsx

Singer 306K




$65


----------



## erikmannie

mattthemuppet2 said:


> I think one of Glacern's 2" integral R8 shank F45 facemills would be an excellent choice. I would have bought one but at the time I was on a tight budget, so got a Chinese cheapie and made my own straight shank arbor.



I have a 2” Glacern R8 integral shank face mill. I recommend these. I believe that these are made in Taiwan. They are offered in 2”, 2-1/2” and 3”.






						Glacern Machine Tools - FM45 Facemills
					

Glacern Machine Tools manufacturers CNC Machine Vises, Precision Tool Holders, and Indexable Milling Cutters for vertical and horizontal cnc milling machines.




					www.glacern.com
				







 I use Kennemetal inserts  (SEGW43-KC510M) which are bombproof but expensive at $24 each (same link).


----------



## erikmannie

IamNotImportant said:


> you think that a 4" facemill would be too big for the PM-833TV?



My opinion is that a 4” is a little too wide for that machine. I wonder if you could get away with it if you limited yourself to light cuts (e.g. .015” max DOC in mild steel).


----------



## AR. Hillbilly

darkzero said:


> Don't remember if there is an existing thread like this. Many of you guys like to share your scores so let's try a new ongoing thread...
> 
> If your here chances are you love tools & always love to get new ones. This thread is not necessarily for gloating (well maybe) but you can if you want but expect to get a "you suck" compliment!
> 
> So what did you buy for the shop today (or recently)? No tool too small or too big, machines, equipment, inexpensive, expensive, good deal or not, whatever. All that matters is if you'd like to share your latest acquisition that put a smile on your face, post 'em up! And you know the drill, we love to see photos!


Hello all. I haven’t been on here in quite some time but glad to be back. 
Yesterday I bought what I believe is a Brown & Sharpe no. 1 universal milking machine. 
It’s an oldie but seems very tight for it’s age. 
Has all the shafting and pulleys for the power feed on the table but all removed. 
I’ll have to source a flat belt for that once I get that back together. 
It doesn’t use a drawbar in the spindle just a press taper. 
I’m a little concerned about this as I had hoped to use windmills and a face cutter in it. 
Not sure of the taper yet. 
It has Vern converted to an electric motor. 
I’m happy that No holes  were drilled or anything destroyed  to keep it from going back to original. 
It comes with one long arbor but no tooling. 
I won’t be able to get it home for a few weeks. I have to arrange my shop. 
I intend to learn all about this old machine and how to run it. I’m very interested in tooling and attachments for it. I’ve seen pics of vertical heads for it but I can’t find one. 
All advice is welcome. I’m a complete beginner. 
Pics when I get it home.


----------



## AR. Hillbilly

AR. Hillbilly said:


> Hello all. I haven’t been on here in quite some time but glad to be back.
> Yesterday I bought what I believe is a Brown & Sharpe no. 1 universal milking machine.
> It’s an oldie but seems very tight for it’s age.
> Has all the shafting and pulleys for the power feed on the table but all removed.
> I’ll have to source a flat belt for that once I get that back together.
> It doesn’t use a drawbar in the spindle just a press taper.
> I’m a little concerned about this as I had hoped to use windmills and a face cutter in it.
> Not sure of the taper yet.
> It has Vern converted to an electric motor.
> I’m happy that No holes  were drilled or anything destroyed  to keep it from going back to original.
> It comes with one long arbor but no tooling.
> I won’t be able to get it home for a few weeks. I have to arrange my shop.
> I intend to learn all about this old machine and how to run it. I’m very interested in tooling and attachments for it. I’ve seen pics of vertical heads for it but I can’t find one.
> All advice is welcome. I’m a complete beginner.
> Pics when I get it home.


----------



## IamNotImportant

erikmannie said:


> I have a 2” Glacern R8 integral shank face mill. I recommend these. I believe that these are made in Taiwan. They are offered in 2”, 2-1/2” and 3”.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glacern Machine Tools - FM45 Facemills
> 
> 
> Glacern Machine Tools manufacturers CNC Machine Vises, Precision Tool Holders, and Indexable Milling Cutters for vertical and horizontal cnc milling machines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.glacern.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 430530
> 
> 
> I use Kennemetal inserts  (SEGW43-KC510M) which are bombproof but expensive at $24 each (same link).


yeah.. ordered one last night


----------



## brino

AR. Hillbilly said:


> Yesterday I bought what I believe is a Brown & Sharpe no. 1 universal milling machine.



An oldie but a goodie!

Someone sure got creative with the extra jack shaft and motor mount. No doubt looking for speed reduction.

Is that some kind of sanding drum on the horizontal shaft now?

Given the maker, I would expect B&S tapers.

It looks to be older than the 1928 and newer models shown here:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/brown-sharpe-1928-standard/
but that site may help you with taper type.

Look here for documentation:
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=2185&tab=3
(although yours may be older than most of that.....)

and here for photos:
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=2185&tab=4
(none of your exact model, but the photos of the #0 plain may have have similar power feed setup.)

Brian

EDIT:
This is the only document I found showing the older "open cone gear" drive:
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=18308


----------



## AR. Hillbilly

brino said:


> An oldie but a goodie!
> 
> Someone sure got creative with the extra jack shaft and motor mount. No doubt looking for speed reduction.
> 
> Is that some kind of sanding drum on the horizontal shaft now?
> 
> Given the maker, I would expect B&S tapers.
> 
> It looks to be older than the 1928 and newer models shown here:
> http://www.lathes.co.uk/brown-sharpe-1928-standard/
> but that site may help you with taper type.
> 
> Look here for documentation:
> http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=2185&tab=3
> (although yours may be older than most of that.....)
> 
> and here for photos:
> http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=2185&tab=4
> (none of your exact model, but the photos of the #0 plain may have have similar power feed setup.)
> 
> Brian


Yes that’s a sanding drum. 
They tried to use it to flat sand soft wood. 
It didn’t work like they thought so they scrapped the idea. I got hundreds of new sanding belts to fit that drum that came with it. Have no idea that I’ll do with them. 
The sanding drum operates on centrifugal force. I don’t think the old setup was even close to fast enough to get it to grab the sanding belt.


----------



## francist

matthewsx said:


> Singer 306K


Very nice, I have one just like it (minus the add-on carry handle). Takes a not-common size needle and a larger bobbin but it’s a real tractor and makes a nice stitch. Mine came without a cabinet and needed some serious repair work but I still like using it.

-frank


----------



## matthewsx

francist said:


> Very nice, I have one just like it (minus the add-on carry handle). Takes a not-common size needle and a larger bobbin but it’s a real tractor and makes a nice stitch. Mine came without a cabinet and needed some serious repair work but I still like using it.
> 
> -frank


Awesome, this one appears to just need cleaning, lubrication and a new belt & bobbin winding tire. I'm sure I'll have questions though.

John


----------



## Firstram

In 1984 Dino DeLaurentiis was moving his film studio from Mexico to Wilmington NC. We unloaded countless 40‘ trailers, one of them backed up to the dock dripping oil under the back doors. That trailer was triple stacked from stem to stern with sewing machines. Every one of them had punched through their particle board tops and ended up on the floor!


----------



## brino

AR. Hillbilly said:


> The sanding drum operates on centrifugal force. I don’t think the old setup was even close to fast enough to get it to grab the sanding belt.



I would suspect that the main bearings were originally plain or even babbit, so I doubt they were up to running at very high speed either.
Any sign of a roller bearing conversion?
Brian


----------



## Aaron David

No picture, as it is really boring, but my WEN tool stand dollie came today. So, as soon as I finish the bathroom floor, I can start in on making the permentant stand for the AAMCO shaper. And then the lathe can me approached, moving the Tetris that is my shop and storage space one step further to usable.


----------



## AR. Hillbilly

brino said:


> I would suspect that the main bearings were originally plain or even babbit, so I doubt they were up to running at very high speed either.
> Any sign of a roller bearing conversion?
> Brian


Not that I’m aware of?
I’ll look closer when I get it home but I don’t think so. I was studying the oil holes and wondering how much to put in. I sure didn’t see rollers.


----------



## francist

AR. Hillbilly said:


> Yesterday I bought what I believe is a Brown & Sharpe no. 1 universal milking machine.
> It’s an oldie but seems very tight for it’s age.


Yes, it’s very important that milking machines are tight. Especially the old ones… 
(Sorry, just couldn’t let that one slip by unchallenged


----------



## IamNotImportant

Aaron David said:


> No picture, as it is really boring, but my WEN tool stand dollie came today. So, as soon as I finish the bathroom floor, I can start in on making the permentant stand for the AAMCO shaper. And then the lathe can me approached, moving the Tetris that is my shop and storage space one step further to usable.


i need a stand to put the drill press on


----------



## AR. Hillbilly

francist said:


> Yes, it’s very important that milking machines are tight. Especially the old ones…
> (Sorry, just couldn’t let that one slip by unchallenged


I wouldn’t have either. 
With me there’s no telling what might get typed.


----------



## Dhal22

erikmannie said:


> I have a 2” Glacern R8 integral shank face mill. I recommend these. I believe that these are made in Taiwan. They are offered in 2”, 2-1/2” and 3”.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glacern Machine Tools - FM45 Facemills
> 
> 
> Glacern Machine Tools manufacturers CNC Machine Vises, Precision Tool Holders, and Indexable Milling Cutters for vertical and horizontal cnc milling machines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.glacern.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 430530
> 
> 
> I use Kennemetal inserts  (SEGW43-KC510M) which are bombproof but expensive at $24 each (same link).




I need to get me one of those.


----------



## atunguyd

francist said:


> Yes, it’s very important that milking machines are tight. Especially the old ones…
> (Sorry, just couldn’t let that one slip by unchallenged


Agreed especially if you are planning to use them with windmills 

Sent from my SM-S908E using Tapatalk


----------



## erikmannie

This time of year some of my UPS customers give me tips, & of course 100% of that money always goes to quality tooling.

My wife is very helpful in that she will give me *cash* for 80-90% of the face value of a, say, Target or Amazon gift card. I barely had enough to get this tonight for [$200.20 delivered] from Baker’s Gas. Baker’s Gas has excellent service, & they are a reliable source for genuine parts.

I had to call ESAB to ask the difference between ESS32 & ESS42 models of Edge 2.0 regulators. ESS32 is medium duty, & ESS42 is heavy duty.

This will be used for a dedicated cutting torch (as opposed to a combination torch). I already have two of these exact same regulators, so I know that they fit my cylinders (CGA-540), & the B fittings on the hose.









						Victor Edge 2.0 ESS42 HD Oxygen Regulator, CGA 540 - 0781-3601
					

Victor EDGE Series 2.0 patented regulators are changing the game for regulators! Easy to read gauges that are color coded. Regulator model: 0781-3601.




					bakersgas.com
				







Hopefully I will get enough tips to get the same regulator for acetylene, but that is unlikely.


----------



## jpackard56

francist said:


> Yes, it’s very important that milking machines are tight. Especially the old ones…
> (Sorry, just couldn’t let that one slip by unchallenged


I've learned with my eyesight on computer screens and the famous "spellcheck"  whether we want it or not, can get a guy in real trouble sometimes.... much worse than "milking" vs "milling"  


As an aside my wife and I still milk a few by hand and yes the "old" hands just aren't as tight as they used to be especially in the cold. But the grand kids are learning so it'll be a skill that gets passed on. Now in the shop, yeah the "old" hands once again are not what they used to be on the old mills (1928 K&T Horiz and 1942 Wells Index) either. Currently the grand kids are just watching but hopefully some day


----------



## AR. Hillbilly

AR. Hillbilly said:


> Hello all. I haven’t been on here in quite some time but glad to be back.
> Yesterday I bought what I believe is a Brown & Sharpe no. 1 universal milking machine.
> It’s an oldie but seems very tight for it’s age.
> Has all the shafting and pulleys for the power feed on the table but all removed.
> I’ll have to source a flat belt for that once I get that back together.
> It doesn’t use a drawbar in the spindle just a press taper.
> I’m a little concerned about this as I had hoped to use windmills and a face cutter in it.
> Not sure of the taper yet.
> It has Vern converted to an electric motor.
> I’m happy that No holes  were drilled or anything destroyed  to keep it from going back to original.
> It comes with one long arbor but no tooling.
> I won’t be able to get it home for a few weeks. I have to arrange my shop.
> I intend to learn all about this old machine and how to run it. I’m very interested in tooling and attachments for it. I’ve seen pics of vertical heads for it but I can’t find one.
> All advice is welcome. I’m a complete beginner.
> Pics when I get it home.


I don’t believe the spindle is hollow all the way through. I won’t be able to use a drawbar and short arbor I don’t think.
It’s just a B&S taper with a slot to drive a wedge to remove the arbor.
I was hoping to use end mills and a face cutter.


----------



## erikmannie

Acetylene regulator to be used on a torch cutting cart. This was $200.20 delivered from Baker’s Gas.









						Victor Edge 2.0 ESS42 HD Acetylene Regulator, CGA 510 - 0781-3602
					

Victor EDGE Series 2.0 patented regulators are changing the game for regulators! Durable, safe and easy to ready gauges. Regulator Model: 0781-3602.




					bakersgas.com
				





This has a CGA-510 fitting to match the female fitting on the acetylene cylinders that I use, & a B fitting for the hose.


----------



## AR. Hillbilly

jpackard56 said:


> I've learned with my eyesight on computer screens and the famous "spellcheck"  whether we want it or not, can get a guy in real trouble sometimes.... much worse than "milking" vs "milling"
> 
> 
> As an aside my wife and I still milk a few by hand and yes the "old" hands just aren't as tight as they used to be especially in the cold. But the grand kids are learning so it'll be a skill that gets passed on. Now in the shop, yeah the "old" hands once again are not what they used to be on the old mills (1928 K&T Horiz and 1942 Wells Index) either. Currently the grand kids are just watching but hopefully some day


I grew up milking cows by hand also but I never did learn milling. Hopefully that will happen now. Yes the ole spell check gets me from time to time. Reminds me of a teacher I had as a young’en. She said always proof read.


----------



## ChazzC

Saw an Adam Savage video (



) where he was extolling the virtues of an 8 oz. JustRite disperser he used for Acetone. I liked the concept, but the size seemed a bit awkward. After doing some research, I found that these were also available in a 4 oz. size, which seemed more reasonable for my use (frequent, but not daily; I use Isopropyl Alcohol almost every day, and since it is not as volatile as Acetone, does well in the flip-top bottles described in previous posts), plus easier to manipulate:



Heavy duty Polypropylene, with what appears to be the identical dispensing valve as the 8 oz. version. However, the baby one costs 50% more, either since it is uncolored (virgin vs. reclaimed PP) or there is less demand. I got mine from Amazon, using a promotion to try their lockers (a bit of a pain since the most convenient one was at Staples which now closes at 6:00pm, 5 minutes after the delivery was made) and some gift vouchers from various sources, which brought the cost down to a reasonable point.

While there is a gasket between the nozzle and the bottle, there is not a gasket on the dispenser itself, just metal-to-metal. It doesn't leak, but it's not air tight: I'm guessing to keep fumes from building up inside the bottle.


----------



## rwm

Wait!!! Those are $49 and $69 on Amazon! I assume the metal parts are 10K gold for corrosion resistance? Surely I can make this out of stainless for $5. If you have these would you be willing to reverse engineer these like the DOD has done with spacecraft and post a diagram.


----------



## Nesse1

maticulus said:


> Today; Frontier #42261, 1300 lb capacity 48" adjustable workbench on sale $150 shipped from Walmart (beware of browser price hikes, it came up $200 in BRAVE on walmart's site, I purchased it in Chrome). I'm going to brace-box it in a bit for more leg rigidity, put adjustable casters on it, and add some 1/4" steel plating to the top and mount the incoming PM1228 to it.
> 
> View attachment 429607



I bought one of these and put it together today!  Thanks, @maticulus, for the hookup!

In the box, in the corners with the top, there were some metal corner brackets, but there is no mention of them in the instructions, and the photos don't show them either.  Do you know what they are for?


----------



## ChazzC

Deleted


----------



## ChazzC

rwm said:


> Wait!!! Those are $49 and $69 on Amazon! I assume the metal parts are 10K gold for corrosion resistance? Surely I can make this out of stainless for $5. If you have these would you be willing to reverse engineer these like the DOD has done with spacecraft and post a diagram.


Don’t forget the list prices are significantly higher.

You are paying for OSHA & NFPA testing: these agencies/groups approve results of testing, but the manufacturer pays for the testing. If you made your own and you subsequently experienced a fire, your insurance carrier could refuse a claim if you didn’t have approved/accepted equipment. (Trust me, I’ve been there; fortunately my design incorporated approved materials & methods and the inspector determined that otherwise the actions of the owner would have resulted in total destruction, not just fire damage)


----------



## brino

Adam Savage? ...... yawn, what else is on!


----------



## BGHansen

brino said:


> Adam Savage? ...... yawn, what else is on!


I know I'm treading on thin ice here, but I generally watch Mr. Pete and Adam videos with the playback speed at 2X.  Wish I could go faster. . .

Bruce


----------



## Firstram

But you have to appreciate Adams enthusiasm!


----------



## imagineer

Shop Fox M1049.


----------



## Aukai

Pictures, or it didn't happen


----------



## finsruskw

finsruskw said:


> Snagged this off E-bay yesterday.
> It had been up for a week w/no bids.
> The screw looks to be messed up at the step where it buts up against the body of the vice.
> But.....hey......what didja expect for $65!!


Worked some on the vise the other day and managed to get the broken off dog point 1/2 x 13 NC thread bolt out.
It's visible in the `1st picture
Indicated it in the mill vise centered on the bolt hole and starting with a 5/16" end mill, progressively worked my way up to a 25/32" bit that popped the end off the bolt where it had been sawed off.
Then using a 1/2 x 13 plug tap followed with a 1/2 x 13 spiral point tap I was able to get about 3/4 of a turn each time.
After about 15 trips in and out w/the taps, gaining a few more chips each time, the tap caught what was left of the bolt and screwed it right on through and it fell out.
Darn lucky this was a through hole or I would have been screwed I'm afraid.
All is well now as soon as I can get the ways ground, paint, small parts kit and a new set screw I will be in business!
Does anyone know if the D-675 is in still production or has it been replaced by another newer model?


----------



## imagineer

Aukai said:


> Pictures, or it didn't happen


Should be delivered 1st week of January.


----------



## DLF

Creality Ender 6 3D printer.

Today I assembled it and printed the demo file that came with the printer.

Had no idea what it was printing. Turned out a pretty decent wabbit.
	

		
			
		

		
	






Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## FOMOGO

Cool, but is it a wascaly wabbit?


----------



## IamNotImportant

Thread dial for the lathe


----------



## IamNotImportant




----------



## ChazzC

IamNotImportant said:


> IamNotImportant said:
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 430844
> 
> View attachment 430845
Click to expand...



Good to see that Richard is back in the shop; I worked with him earlier this year on a custom handle for my 3" Mini-Mill vise:



He was advertising on eBay and I asked if he could make one with a short throw so it would miss the Y-Axis hand wheel, so he made this as an experiment, honing his CNC skills for the cost of materials & shipping.


----------



## ChazzC

Another entry in the "Largest Box/Smallest Contents" contest:



Three 1/2" Copper couplings from Home Depot (part of a larger order, but total was under $20 and all shipped for free). Box is 10" x 10" x 5", and there was nothing else inside. Picked up yesterday by FedEx and delivered earlier today. I've got some 1/4" couplings coming via UPS tomorrow, we'll see if they beat out this shipment for the prize.


----------



## IamNotImportant

IamNotImportant said:


> View attachment 430844
> 
> View attachment 430845


Here's the letter that came with the handle..


----------



## IamNotImportant

this is what he wrote it on


----------



## ChazzC

IamNotImportant said:


> Here's the letter that came with the handle..
> View attachment 430852


I’ve got a similar letter somewhere (including a side-note too IIRC). Really nice guy.

UPDATED: Found his notes to me that were sent with the handles (I guess I need another shutdown so I can organize stuff again!):


----------



## IamNotImportant

ChazzC said:


> I’ve got a similar letter somewhere (including a side-note too IIRC). Really nice guy.


i like the handle.. it is very nice.. and he was so quick too.. i liked that


----------



## ChazzC

IamNotImportant said:


> i like the handle.. it is very nice.. and he was so quick too.. i liked that


One of Richard's reasons for making these was that the speed handle they had him make in school was not to his liking, particularly the handle which was skinny & too short:​


Photo by Richard Getso​
The handle on yours looks substantial, and the one on my Mini V2 is a satisfying 15mm Ø x 3" long.

I also like that he included the hex plugs that he makes to verify the programming & fit:


----------



## ChazzC

ChazzC said:


> Another entry in the "Largest Box/Smallest Contents" contest:
> 
> View attachment 430850
> 
> Three 1/2" Copper couplings from Home Depot (part of a larger order, but total was under $20 and all shipped for free). Box is 10" x 10" x 5", and there was nothing else inside. Picked up yesterday by FedEx and delivered earlier today. I've got some 1/4" couplings coming via UPS tomorrow, we'll see if they beat out this shipment for the prize.


Was very disappointed today: the 10 x 10 x 5 box with three, 1/4" couplings was delivered by UPS (based on where the box was and that the ring didn't go off the driver just tossed it in the direction of the front door): same box, but the three couplings were in individual bags and most of the boxes was filled with bunched up brown paper. Today's shipment came from around Chicago, the one yesterday was from near Perth Amboy, NJ.


----------



## finsruskw

finsruskw said:


> Showed up today.
> Was surprised to learn it was shipped from Precision Matthews in Coropolis, PA!
> Are they dealers for the Align brand or is it part and parcel of that company?
> Going to let Les open it later today when he gets home from this weeks run.
> Afterall, he's the one that suggested I get one......over a year ago!!
> Film at eleven!


Got it all mounted and it fits like a glove and works like a charm!
Merry Christmas to the Jet!!

Was really impressed with the packaging, great job on that!


----------



## erikmannie

Miller Dual Cylinder cart from Baker’s Gas. $589.53 delivered. This will be used as a cutting torch cart.









						Miller Dual Cylinder Rack Cart - 951770Default Title
					

This Miller Welding cart is the ideal cart to go with your Millermatic 141, 211 or Mulitmatic 215, 220 welding machine.




					bakersgas.com
				




I also bought some tip cleaning kits & strikers:


----------



## snoopdog

Dug this out of another toolbox today,  had it for years, anybody have an idea of the vintage?


----------



## extropic

snoopdog said:


> Dug this out of another toolbox today,  had it for years, anybody have an idea of the vintage?


 Stone Age?


----------



## ChazzC

snoopdog said:


> Dug this out of another toolbox today,  had it for years, anybody have an idea of the vintage?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 431032


I have a couple used at Raymark Friction up to when they shutdown in the late’90’s; a quick way to check in-process materials. Mikes & dial calipers were used to verify finished parts.


----------



## atunguyd

Picked these up today at a local Pawn broker in am industrial area all for just under $30 
Standard Mititoyo test indicator in excellent condition. The second one shows its age but runs smoothly, but it has a resolution of 0.002mm (less than one tenth).
The little surface Guage is a brown and sharp and has one of those old "verdict Junior" indicators on it (made in England) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Sent from my SM-S908E using Tapatalk


----------



## whitmore

SnoopDog's calipers are boxwood, I think.
Never seen any like that, but there's pix on the internet similar to this 'un, with same number 3922
Well, Craftsman tools show up in Sears catalogs; the ones from early (1912) don't have the numbers,
nor Craftsman trademarks.   The ones from 1950s (at archive.org) don't have boxwood-and-brass
calipers, just modern-ish ones.   So, I'm guessing it's 75 years old, and the catalogs that it appeared
in, were lost  in wartime paperdrives, 1942-1945.


----------



## ChazzC

atunguyd said:


> Picked these up today at a local Pawn broker in am industrial area all for just under $30
> Standard Mititoyo test indicator in excellent condition. The second one shows its age but runs smoothly, but it has a resolution of 0.002mm (less than one tenth).
> The little surface Guage is a brown and sharp and has one of those old "verdict Junior" indicators on it (made in England)
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908E using Tapatalk


I miss Pawn Shops.


----------



## ChazzC

ChazzC said:


> Was very disappointed today: the 10 x 10 x 5 box with three, 1/4" couplings was delivered by UPS (based on where the box was and that the ring didn't go off the driver just tossed it in the direction of the front door): same box, but the three couplings were in individual bags and most of the boxes was filled with bunched up brown paper. Today's shipment came from around Chicago, the one yesterday was from near Perth Amboy, NJ.


Remaining shipments from HD got delayed by the weather, but one (from Dallas-ish) is out for delivery:



Funny, I never heard of *fdeg* before, but this is the second email I've received from Home Depot referring to them, so they must be a new service.


----------



## NCjeeper

Thanks Santa!


----------



## atunguyd

ChazzC said:


> I miss Pawn Shops.


Do you guys honestly not have Pawn brokers anymore?

I regularly make the trip out to the more industrial part of town where there are three Pawn brokers that always have machining tools for sale. My biggest score was a cut knurling tool for R500 (about $30) contacted the agents and learned that if I wanted that same tool new it would be R16 000 (about $960).

I have gone from cheap Chinese metrology instruments to Mititoyo, Starrett, Helios, Moore and wright etc at a fraction of the price thanks to these Pawn brokers 

Sent from my SM-S908E using Tapatalk


----------



## erikmannie

@mattthemuppet2 is still selling tooling for about 5 to 15 cents on the dollar!

I sent him $400, & he sent all of this. About 2/3 of it is carbide, & quality brands at that!




Close up pictures:







I don’t know how Matt is able to sell the stuff so cheap, but I encourage him to keep doing what he’s doing, & I encourage you guys to get in on it.

There will come a day when I am retired, on a pension, & not able to afford an endmill, much less a quality carbide one. Matt solved this problem 20 years before it came up!


----------



## matthewsx

atunguyd said:


> Do you guys honestly not have Pawn brokers anymore?
> 
> I regularly make the trip out to the more industrial part of town where there are three Pawn brokers that always have machining tools for sale. My biggest score was a cut knurling tool for R500 (about $30) contacted the agents and learned that if I wanted that same tool new it would be R16 000 (about $960).
> 
> I have gone from cheap Chinese metrology instruments to Mititoyo, Starrett, Helios, Moore and wright etc at a fraction of the price thanks to these Pawn brokers
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908E using Tapatalk


They still exist but have mostly been consolidated into larger companies that don't operate anywhere close to how they used to.

Way back in the 2000's when I was in Arizona we had a local shop that specialized in tools. They had rollaway boxes nicely sorted by one of the owners and I knew I could almost always find what I wanted. Well, those guys got old and by 2008 they had sold out to a big national chain that couldn't care less about single 10mm sockets. What we got instead was a business focused on making "loans" that was closer to a payday lender than what I grew up with.

I suspect there are some old school pawn shops around still but every time I've gone into one in the last decade it's just overpriced junk with almost nothing I'd be interested in....

John


----------



## Firstram

matthewsx said:


> They still exist but have mostly been consolidated into larger companies that don't operate anywhere close to how they used to.
> 
> Way back in the 2000's when I was in Arizona we had a local shop that specialized in tools. They had rollaway boxes nicely sorted by one of the owners and I knew I could almost always find what I wanted. Well, those guys got old and by 2008 they had sold out to a big national chain that couldn't care less about single 10mm sockets. What we got instead was a business focused on making "loans" that was closer to a payday lender than what I grew up with.
> 
> I suspect there are some old school pawn shops around still but every time I've gone into one in the last decade it's just overpriced junk with almost nothing I'd be interested in....
> 
> John


Trying to get retail prices for worn out crap!


----------



## extropic

matthewsx said:


> I suspect there are some old school pawn shops around still but every time I've gone into one in the last decade it's* just overpriced junk with almost nothing I'd be interested in....*



That has been my experience also. No point in even looking anymore. There are people who make a living by cherry picking pawn and thrift stores, then reselling from their own venue. They are much more dedicated shoppers. I surrender.


----------



## snoopdog

Scored this thread well broach set today, little bigger than what I wanted or needed.


----------



## tq60

A lot of the pawn shops are bad buyers...

We often see harbor freight stuff for more than they sell it in the store.

We have a couple that we like, neither are close.

Picked up a Milwaukee 12 volt recip saw like new for 20 bucks, great for what we need, another shop in same town, same thing 60.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


----------



## IamNotImportant

we have one pawn shop in town.. never have been in it..


----------



## IamNotImportant

But now.. Knoxville has quite a few of them..


----------



## epanzella

For Christmas the GENERAL bought me a 4 inch bull nose MT3 center. (under my direction, of course).


----------



## 7milesup

Christmas present from the kids and wife.  It will be placed between the lathe and mill to serve as a tooling cabinet for both machines.  I really like the HF tool chests.


----------



## devils4ever

7milesup said:


> Christmas present from the kids and wife.  It will be placed between the lathe and mill to serve as a tooling cabinet for both machines.  I really like the HF tool chests.


Wow! Great minds think alike. I just bought the same one in red. I'm very impressed with the quality and the weight. Luckily, I had my son home for the holidays to help me move this thing. Net weight: 175 lbs.


----------



## Aukai

Mine is green, extropic bought it, and shipped it to Hawaii for me   better than a Husky, no HF here


----------



## mmcmdl

I remain the only blue box ( Vidmar ) in at work .   Plenty of red , green , black , brown and even a yellow one now . Quite colorful .


----------



## Aukai

A Rastafarian shop?


----------



## ChazzC

atunguyd said:


> Do you guys honestly not have Pawn brokers anymore?
> 
> I regularly make the trip out to the more industrial part of town where there are three Pawn brokers that always have machining tools for sale. My biggest score was a cut knurling tool for R500 (about $30) contacted the agents and learned that if I wanted that same tool new it would be R16 000 (about $960).
> 
> I have gone from cheap Chinese metrology instruments to Mititoyo, Starrett, Helios, Moore and wright etc at a fraction of the price thanks to these Pawn brokers
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908E using Tapatalk


Not real Pawn Shops, the ones around here have wholesale jewelry, surplus DeWalt & other tools NIB and a few lawn tractors. When I was growing up in Baltimore, there Pawn Shops were transitioning, but still had stuff that people brought in to get cash.


----------



## ChazzC

ChazzC said:


> Remaining shipments from HD got delayed by the weather, but one (from Dallas-ish) is out for delivery:
> 
> View attachment 431077
> 
> Funny, I never heard of *fdeg* before, but this is the second email I've received from Home Depot referring to them, so they must be a new service.


The last one showed up (from a HD warehouse in Indiana), packaged the way they all should have been:


----------



## snoopdog

Not a tool, but how many ox horns have you seen for sale? Powder horn project for sure. And,Go Hogs!


----------



## jpackard56

snoopdog said:


> Not a tool, but how many ox horns have you seen for sale? Powder horn project for sure. And,Go Hogs!


Is that solid or just the sheath ? What do they  bring out your way ?


----------



## snoopdog

jpackard56 said:


> Is that solid or just the sheath ? What do they  bring out your way ?


It's hollow,  I gave 7bucks.


----------



## mmcmdl

Not a purchase , rather a gift from Santa . Once I can get to all the wood saws , this is my goal .  I have the wood for 1000 of these .


----------



## erikmannie

Before work, I popped down to the local Matheson Gas & bought this full, customer owned 145 ft.³ acetylene cylinder. It was $575.74 out the door (ouch!). A coworker of mine was kind enough to let me use his pickup truck to bring it from the welding store to my house.

When it comes time to fill this again, the charge will be $91.48 + tax + haz mat fee.

This cylinder is for the torch cutting cart.


----------



## Aukai

I just got a 75/25 cylinder filled for 223.00


----------



## Firstram

Aukai said:


> I just got a 75/25 cylinder filled for 223.00


That's crazy!


----------



## Aukai

That's with a corporate discount, he mentioned 300.00 something being regular price


----------



## brino

Aukai said:


> I just got a 75/25 cylinder filled for 223.00



Filled with gold?

Brian


----------



## IamNotImportant

brino said:


> Filled with gold?
> 
> Brian


fools gold


----------



## jpackard56

Aukai said:


> I just got a 75/25 cylinder filled for 223.00


I was amazed at the cost the last time I filled, it was about doubled from last year. I'm guessing you have that "nice weather surcharge" from living in Hawaii, which appears to be doubled again from SE Ohio rates...


----------



## jpackard56

snoopdog said:


> It's hollow,  I gave 7bucks.


I've been selling Scottish Highland sculls for $50-$75 after about two years of weathering depending on size most without the sheaths which I usually get $15-20 for, so sounds like you got a good price.   I just wondered being you are in cow country how things compared.


----------



## snoopdog

jpackard56 said:


> I've been selling Scottish Highland sculls for $50-$75 after about two years of weathering depending on size most without the sheaths which I usually get $15-20 for, so sounds like you got a good price.   I just wondered being you are in cow country how things compared.


I think that the vets will just give them to you around here if they have any.  Most cattle around here are polled breeds, there was another cowhorn in the same fleamarket booth for 6.00, I may pick it up,  it's been there awhile, about the same size.


----------



## erikmannie

Aukai said:


> I just got a 75/25 cylinder filled for 223.00




Is it crazy expensive like that because you are in Hawaii?


----------



## NCjeeper

Geez how big is your cylinder?


----------



## Aukai

125, I just called another branch of AirGas, and was told 125 exchange price with hazmat charge was 390.00


----------



## snoopdog

Aukai said:


> 125, I just called another branch of AirGas, and was told 125 exchange price with hazmat charge was 390.00


That's craziness,  no matter where you are.


----------



## pontiac428

Wow.  Only once I paid over $300 for a cylinder, and that was a 330 cf tank full of Stargold tri-mix.  New bottle included.  
One of my little (205 cf or so) argon bottles has about 30 minutes left in it, I guess I better get it filled sooner rather than later... before the argon shortage hits. 

Did you know that Argon is a gas that wafts off of decaying globs of guts from exploded stars?  It's a fact!


----------



## erikmannie

1 box which contains 10 Kennametal SEHW43-KC510M inserts. Painfully expensive at $283.33, or $28.33 landed cost for each insert.




These are for a Glacern face mill. They will be used to face a large amount of 5/8” plate that was used for stick welding practice, so the plate is covered with rusty 60-70 kpsi tensile strength stringer beads.

After being machined, this plate steel will be 8” X 5” plate welding coupons.


----------



## Gaffer

Aukai said:


> I just got a 75/25 cylinder filled for 223.00


Youch! My 125-cu ft 75/25 tank ran dry last weekend. My cost to fill it today was $47. As for other prices to compare, I replenished my OA tanks too. 125 O2 was $18 and 2A (55cu ft) acetylene was $46. My tank was outdated, and they charged me $35 for hydrostatic testing. I thought it interesting because they have to send their tanks out for testing, yet they swapped mine out for the $35. I'm happy!


----------



## Winegrower

Winegrower said:


> I got a Bison 6” three jaw for the Takisawa. I have an 8” three jaw, but this will close down a bit more, but most important it’s an A style mount, so bolts directly to the Takisawa spindle. The 8” uses a backing plate that is fine but just a bit more work to swap in/out.
> 
> Seemed like a bargain, eBay new for $600. We will see in a week or so.



I posted this awhile ago, and the chuck arrived.  Exceptionally well packaged, from Canada.   Clearly new, but had been in the box since 2008.
Mounted it up, chucked up a 3/4" gauge pin to check runout.   The 0.0001 DTI just literally never moved, and I had to test to see if it was working.   So the runout was not measurable...never had that happen before.   The lathe spindle itself is about a tenth and a half, so there must have been some error cancellation.    The spec on the chuck is quite extensive, lots of different measurements are spec'ed, but runout on a 80mm pin measured out 40mm is shown as 0.0012.   I can't complain about any of this stuff.    There is a table of how much weight the chuck can handle, and wow, I'm never going to get anywhere near this.  For example, chuck one end and use a tailstock center and the spec is 330 pounds.

This was a good purchase.


----------



## rwm

Here is the Argon bottle thread for reference!








						WTF is Up With Argon?
					

With the needle down to about 300 psi, I decided to shop for argon for TIG welding. I called the two local suppliers in Redding, CA, one in Chico and one in Sacramento. Prices are for 80 cu ft. exchange  Airgas (Redding) $105.13 Shasta Welding (Redding) $82.44 MJB Welding (Chico) $56.69 Barnes...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## Magnett

erikmannie said:


> Before work, I popped down to the local Matheson Gas & bought this full, customer owned 145 ft.³ acetylene cylinder. It was $575.74 out the door (ouch!). A coworker of mine was kind enough to let me use his pickup truck to bring it from the welding store to my house.
> 
> When it comes time to fill this again, the charge will be $91.48 + tax + haz mat fee.
> 
> This cylinder is for the torch cutting cart.
> 
> View attachment 431418


OUCH!


----------



## Gaffer

I have car trailer panel straightening to do as well as body work my Cuda project, so I bought this starter set from Summit Racing.


----------



## pontiac428

I got tired of watching these, so I picked them up.  Left and rights of each size and shape.  They ended up being a couple bucks each, but that's cheaper than inserts.  They're properly sharpened in the wax, and I can grind them as needed in the SHeckel with CBN.   I use inserts with stainless and when I need it for hard stuff, but I'm not really a fan.  So now I can bridge the gap from HSS to expensive inserts with grindable, shapable carbide tools.  I'm looking forward to my next encounter with Mr. 304 and his buddy 316.


----------



## erikmannie

pontiac428 said:


> I got tired of watching these, so I picked them up.  Left and rights of each size and shape.  They ended up being a couple bucks each, but that's cheaper than inserts.  They're properly sharpened in the wax, and I can grind them as needed in the SHeckel with CBN.   I use inserts with stainless and when I need it for hard stuff, but I'm not really a fan.  So now I can bridge the gap from HSS to expensive inserts with grindable, shapable carbide tools.  I'm looking forward to my next encounter with Mr. 304 and his buddy 316.
> 
> View attachment 431677



I love those brazed carbide tools. Economical and sharp!


----------



## erikmannie

This lot of gas welding items is the last of the tool purchases for me. I *really* have bought everything that I would need or want for a long time. 

These resurface a dirty cutting tip:





Rosebud for a medium combination torch:





Filler rod:





Self-explanatory:









No more posting in this thread for me unless I want to live in the poorhouse.


----------



## Eyerelief

Santa brought me a bottle of Anchorlube.   The stuff that looks like the green fixaflat goop. I tried it out today and I liked it. I’m making a set of die wrenches. On the holder shown I drilled and tapped some 5/16 NF and some 10-32 threads .500 deep in 316 stainless. When drilling, I did not observe or smell any smoke like common cutting fluid is known to produce.  The 10-32 tapping didn’t require breaking the chip infrequently.  Both drills and taps cut smoothly and produced decent finishes. I can’t speak for what will happen regarding discoloring surfaces. 316 fights those issues well and I wiped down everything else as to not take any chances (conventional cutting fluid trained me well)


----------



## Suzuki4evr

erikmannie said:


> @mattthemuppet2 is still selling tooling for about 5 to 15 cents on the dollar!
> 
> I sent him $400, & he sent all of this. About 2/3 of it is carbide, & quality brands at that!
> 
> View attachment 431102
> 
> 
> Close up pictures:
> 
> View attachment 431103
> 
> 
> View attachment 431104
> 
> 
> I don’t know how Matt is able to sell the stuff so cheap, but I encourage him to keep doing what he’s doing, & I encourage you guys to get in on it.
> 
> There will come a day when I am retired, on a pension, & not able to afford an endmill, much less a quality carbide one. Matt solved this problem 20 years before it came up!


Too bad I live a million kilometers and an ocean away.


----------



## Suzuki4evr

FOMOGO said:


> -3 F this morning, buuuurrrr. Made the trip to Fort Collins yesterday. Twelve hrs. round trip over two 10k' passes, including loading up the machine. Saw some amazing Christmas lighting in the middle of nowhere. Today I have to move things around in the shop to make room for mill, get it unloaded with the backhoe, and clean out all the equipment from the truck, and trailer. Sun is shinning now and up to 20F. After I'm done, think I'm gonna take a day or two off. The mill is an Acra 10x54, 3hp, Variable speed 60-4200rpm, 3,420#. Has virtually no backlash in any axis and a totally clean table. Picked up the mill for $2250, and the vise, a Jacobs chuck, fly cutter, two insert cutter, full R-8 collet set, along with 162 end-mills in every flute count and size up to 3/4". Most of them still in wax, and only two that need sharpening for the princely sum of $150. Pretty happy with the purchase. Now I have to decide whether to sell the BP. Will post a few pics of the mill Once I get it inside. Cheers, Mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/AN7Evtg.jpg[/img]']
> 
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/KmwDTpg.jpg[/img]']
> 
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/KDMcCkR.jpg[/img]']
> 
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/9PQ7iWC.jpg[/img]']
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 430392


Mike........,IMO
 

I think you got a hell of a nice deal. Congrats and enjoy the the new toy. 

Michael.


----------



## K30

Snagged a much needed pile of holdy bits.


----------



## great white

Not exactly a machining thing, but useful for making things for machines:



Leather sewing patcher. Great for things like canvas dust covers, bags, holders, sheaths,  etc…


----------



## erikmannie

My 80-year-old father is going to pass down to me his father’s Craftsman bandsaw this weekend. My dad has really bad tremors, so he cannot do anything in the shop.

My grandfather bought this bandsaw new in about 1970. My Dad & grandfather only worked with wood, so the original metal blade has never been installed.

This a cool development because I definitely need to stop spending money on things, & I am (barely) able to squeeze one more machine in the garage.

This same bandsaw was ever-present in my childhood. I have childhood memories of being with my grandfather in his woodshop, so it is nice that the tradition continues 50 years later.


----------



## pontiac428

Ebay still has some good deals.  Now I have another chuck with a buffalo on it.  Direct mount, semi-steel, no frills, just a good chuck in a much handier size.


----------



## wachuko

great white said:


> Not exactly a machining thing, but useful for making things for machines:
> 
> View attachment 431915
> 
> Leather sewing patcher. Great for things like canvas dust covers, bags, holders, sheaths,  etc…



I got one as well... could not leave it alone and added a base and motor to it... lol...  That thing will go through almost anything!!  For the price it can't be beat...


----------



## erikmannie

pontiac428 said:


> Ebay still has some good deals.  Now I have another chuck with a buffalo on it.  Direct mount, semi-steel, no frills, just a good chuck in a much handier size.
> 
> 
> View attachment 431968



I have had great success with Polish tooling. The Poles do a great job.


----------



## great white

wachuko said:


> I got one as well... could not leave it alone and added a base and motor to it... lol...  That thing will go through almost anything!!  For the price it can't be beat...
> 
> 
> View attachment 431970



Cool. I've got the same servo motor on order and I'll probably make a stand from some scrap 1/4" plate (and the plasma cutter) I have lying around like this gent did:









I want mine good and heavy as it will sit on a slick table top (will be adding non slip rubber feet too) and be stored most of the time as I only have limited use for something like a patcher. But when you need one, nothing else will do....

I'm also planning to "re-manufacture" it like this gent did:






He basically takes the frame and re-manufactures everything into a smoother, higher quality machine. Nice machining project and a nicer patcher at the end of the job. I really like the brass bits he added. Gives it a nice turn-of-the-century "brass era" look.

Proves that sometimes you actually can "make a silk purse from a sows ear".

Win-Win.


----------



## great white

That "chinese sewing leather patcher" isn't a unique design, even though it may look like it. Like all chinese products, it's just a rip off of someone else's work:







Bradbury cobbler machine. 1800's -ish.



			Bradbury's A1 Repairing  Machine
		


Made by a few other brands as well.

China doesn't really make anything, they just copy existing designs......whether it's new or old. It's how they make profit: no/minimal R&D, all production at the lowest possible cost. That 's why all their stuff looks so raw. Finishing work and QA is one of the most expensive parts of manufacturing. They just don't do it....unless someone contracts them to do it.


----------



## WobblyHand

Nothing very special, but, something did arrive today.  

Got some NT2R-K313 Top Notch threading inserts for my (3/4") A12-NEL2 bar.  Can't believe that it's been over two months since I got that bar.  It's been sitting forlorn by the lathe because I had no inserts.  Also some 2" OD 4140 annealed drops arrived.  Will try to make a couple of machinist jacks from them.  I designed some jacks, but, I recall seeing some much nicer designs here.  Probably will find a couple of the designs and alter them slightly so I can make them with what I have.


----------



## mmcmdl

What did the inserts run you Wobbly ? I know they aren't cheap .


----------



## WobblyHand

mmcmdl said:


> What did the inserts run you Wobbly ? I know they aren't cheap .


Found them on the bay at ~ $10 each.  $49.95 + free shipping.  That's way better than retail, but it was a more expensive than I initially thought they would be.  For me, the toughest part was figuring out what handedness the tool bit needed to be.  A LH internal bar needs RH bits.  Think this was all done to keep the riff-raff like me out of the business...    I bought these bits, because it said they were returnable (if I messed up the handedness).  I checked one of them and it seemed ok, with the groove in the insert lining up with the clamp.  Probably ought to check the others, to make sure they are all correct.  

The Kennametal online catalog is confusing to me, and hard to search.  You'd think it would be easier to search on thread size that these bits cut, so one could order a range of cutters.  So far, I haven't found that list.  I think the K-313 will do 7-20 TPI, which is decent.  Not sure if they have any tooling for higher TPI.


----------



## WobblyHand

I didn't buy this, rather I was lent an MT3 reamer, courtesy of @Aukai .  It arrived at my house today.  Thank you so much!  What an awesome place HM is to have such great members who would loan out something like this.  Greatly appreciated.


Need to clean up my tail stock taper.  My tail stock has been marking up some of the male tapers, and I don't see anything obvious in there.  Hopefully a very light pass will fix this.


----------



## pontiac428

WobblyHand said:


> My tail stock has been marking up some of the male tapers, and I don't see anything obvious in there.  Hopefully a very light pass will fix this.



It should become obvious when you start making turns with the reamer.  When you are done, even if it's just a skim, your tapers will hold tight!


----------



## Aukai

Glad to help, and happy it arrived.


----------



## keeena

WobblyHand said:


> I didn't buy this, rather I was lent an MT3 reamer, courtesy of @Aukai .


Hats off to Aukai - especially considering the trip it had to take! I wish I knew since I'm a bit closer.


----------



## FOMOGO

Picked up an MT5 live center, two MT adapters, and three carburetor jet drills from Matt here on the forum at a great price. The R8 X 3/4" tool holder on the left, I got on ebay for $20 new. For scale, that's an 1 1/2",  3/4" drive socket behind the The R8 holder. Mike


----------



## pontiac428

I would love to see the jets you'll be drilling with those!  I'm thinking 5000 CID on a single barrel?


----------



## FOMOGO

Yeah, you could just hook it up directly to a pipeline. Just my sad attempt at a little shop humor. Mike



pontiac428 said:


> I would love to see the jets you'll be drilling with those! I'm thinking 5000 CID on a single barrel?


----------



## rwdenney

Rick “actually a Christmas present” Denney


----------



## Ben17484

An AXA tool post with three holders:







And a job lot of imperial taps and dies. Got these for £9 (10USD). I only have metric at the moment as that’s most of what I need (being in the UK), but I needed an imperial die and it so happened to be part of this job lot, so I’ve now a bunch of imperial taps and dies. 












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## pontiac428

Today, while drinking coffee, I negotiated for another chuck with a buffalo on it.  Yes, another one!  It's PUM branded, which means "precision chuck manufacturers" and is seen as PUMm, PUMi, PUU, or PUT names for chucks that came from Bial in the 1970s when they were leading the way with CNC grinding and machining.  They sold chucks to the Soviets and the world with the famous Bison logo on them, and I just picked one up for $200 delivered in clean, straight shape.

I now have a 14" independent (Bison), 12" scroll (Bison), 8" scroll (Bison), and this 8" independent.  Now I can chuck up small/normal sized work.  I still want a flex collet chuck, but then I'm done.  There is such thing as done, right?


----------



## FOMOGO

Nice score on the chuck. As to your question, LOL-LOL-LOL-LOL, oh stop, my sides are hurting. Cheers, Mike



pontiac428 said:


> There is such thing as done, right?


----------



## brino

pontiac428 said:


> I still want a flex collet chuck, but then I'm done. There is such thing as done, right?



I haven't seen it yet.
I heard about it in an old story, but I believe it was fiction.
Brian


----------



## Eyerelief

pontiac428 said:


> There is such thing as done, right?


I used to think so but when my buddy passed away I thought he was done, but the boxes kept showing up on the front porch..............................


----------



## great white

2 grand worth of parts for the wife's mini cooper........

Edit, since a couple "wow" smilies have popped up: timing chain, valve seals, thermostat housing, vacuum pump, accessory drives, belts/hoses/filters and other misc gubbins.


----------



## Shotgun

pontiac428 said:


> There is such thing as done, right?


Yes.  It lasts from when you wife complains about the last purchase, right up until you unexpectedly see the next.

Which reminds me:  I haven't checked Craigslist today.  It is almost Free Treadmill season.


----------



## GoceKU

Today i stopped by my local flea/tool market, mainly because i got a call from a friend that he has seen car parts for cheap. It wasn't anything special but i did managed to find a new clutch disk from my littel niva 5$, two thermostats for peugeot also 5$, bosch oil filter also for peugeot 2$, some 20w50 engine oil and 2 stroke oil 4$, a new lock for one of my sheds 6$ and last was this big sheet metal shears 10$. The metal shears need some work but are still in working condition, i may fixed them just for the fun of it.


----------



## f350ca

The 1 1/2 drill bit I ordered arrived today. The one I used to cross drill the valve stems on the Holt is on top of it.



Also bought three Starrett pin vices. Have had multiple occasions where they would be nice to have. The larger one will be used to lap the valves on the Holt.




Greg


----------



## mattthemuppet2

I don't buy all that much anymore (at least individual pieces) as I spend most of my time trying to get stuff OUT of the garage, but I desperately needed to organize my reamers. So I reinvested some tool sale money into some huot organizers. 



This is going to be way easier than rummaging around in a zip lock bag

I'm missing some sizes and have a bunch of spares, so if someone else is in the same position I'm interested in trading


----------



## pontiac428

Today, I started setting up the 20 hp RPC for my lathe.  A friend of mine removed and ejected a prior owner's hot tub from his real estate.  He knew I needed some good wire, so he gave me 60' of the 6/3 stranded copper cable that came out with it.  Yes!  That's $300 worth of wire right now!

I had to move and change some breakers for my existing 5 hp RPC, as well as putting in the new big boy and a disconnect to feed the lathe.  So two 3-pole breakers, two 2-pole breakers, 25' of SOOW 8/4 for the rotor and machine power, and some mandatory strain relief.  Came out to $418, because the economy sucks!  The supply houses are charging more than Amazon for that stuff right now, so I gave money to Bezos again.  Maybe he can send his dog to space along with him next time because of me.


----------



## pontiac428

Ooh, just arrived!  This will probably see more work than  the others, 8" has a better RPM range and finer clamping than the big man chucks.

Just like the man said, new in box.  When I saw the... thing... on the end of the chuck key, I shrieked like a teenage girl who spotted a mouse.  I threw it on the ground and stomped on it until it was dead.  I don't do those socketed bit flip-flop screwdrivers, and I don't do chuck key springs.  Both are banned from my shop.  I'm going to make a sign.


----------



## francist

Here you go…


----------



## G-ManBart

My recent taper project/taper tantrum thread got me thinking of adding inexpensive indicators with magnetic bases so I could put one to measure saddle travel and another to measure cross slide travel....for under $30 each they're hard to beat.  I've been looking for an inexpensive, relatively modern, but not brand new copy of Machinery's Handbook...like $32 with shipping and tax off eBay.  I was sick as can be so I had plenty of time to surf eBay when I wasn't sleeping...lol


----------



## extropic

francist said:


> Here you go…


 There you go  again. LOL


----------



## francist

extropic said:


> There you go  again. LOL


Yep, can’t keep a bad man down…


----------



## francist

G-ManBart said:


> inexpensive indicators with magnetic bases so I could put one to measure saddle travel and another to measure cross slide travel


Those are super handy, I’ve been using similar on my lathe for a while now and they can save a lot of grief. Even if they get a bit beat up they’re painless enough to replace with a fresh one. Good investments


----------



## Dhal22

extropic said:


> There you go  again. LOL




Where are we going?


----------



## Ben17484

pontiac428 said:


> Ooh, just arrived! This will probably see more work than the others, 8" has a better RPM range and finer clamping than the big man chucks.
> 
> Just like the man said, new in box. When I saw the... thing... on the end of the chuck key, I shrieked like a teenage girl who spotted a mouse. I threw it on the ground and stomped on it until it was dead. I don't do those socketed bit flip-flop screwdrivers, and I don't do chuck key springs. Both are banned from my shop. I'm going to make a sign.
> View attachment 432403



As a newbie, can I ask why you don’t like the sprung keys?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## extropic

@Ben17484 
They are just obnoxious to use. Sometimes, heaven forbid, a person may want to leave the key in the chuck, just for a moment, while he/she uses that hand for something else. Is that the best safety practice . . . no, but it happens all the time. YMMV Be safe.


----------



## pontiac428

extropic said:


> @Ben17484
> They are just obnoxious to use. Sometimes, heaven forbid, a person may want to leave the key in the chuck, just for a moment, while he/she uses that hand for something else. Is that the best safety practice . . . no, but it happens all the time. YMMV Be safe.


----------



## pontiac428

G-ManBart said:


> My recent taper project/taper tantrum thread got me thinking of adding inexpensive indicators with magnetic bases so I could put one to measure saddle travel and another to measure cross slide travel....for under $30 each they're hard to beat.


You got me.  I immediately ordered a pair of those bases.  Two for $36 delivered from the Shars liquidator on eBay (discount machine), it'll be easy to get my money's worth!


----------



## great white

Ben17484 said:


> As a newbie, can I ask why you don’t like the sprung keys?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Its kind of a “work around” if you’re inexperienced and haven’t developed the habit that if you aren’t working directly on the chuck, the key *MUST NOT* be in it.

The theory is the spring won’t let you leave the key in the chuck. It a kind of “idiot proofing”.

If you’re experienced/knowledgable enough to not leave the key in the chuck unattended, then the spring is just another thing to “p” you off and make the job just that much harder….


----------



## Dave Smith

great white said:


> The theory is the spring won’t let you leave the key in the chuck. It a kind of “idiot proofing”.
> 
> If you’re experienced/knowledgable enough to not leave the key in the chuck unattended, then the spring is just another thing to “p” you off and make the job just that much harder….


I agree, just a nuisance, especially if you need to adjust the chuck a big difference tighter or looser--just make it a strong habit of not leaving the chuck key in chuck after using it!!!-----bad habits of a few should not affect everyone!

Dave


----------



## Eyerelief

Moms neighbor has been after me for a couple months to look at some "stuff" a friend asked him to store in 1980ish to see if I could use any of it.  Not wanting any more "stuff", I have been kinda dragging my feet on going over.  Thursday while cleaning up around moms place he finally pinned me into a corner.  Turns out his friend was a machinist in the oil field industry.  My interest tweeked when he pulled out the Starrett 98 18" and 8" levels.  Been on the hunt for them since I will be moving the lathe to my new shop this summer.




Its almost all Starrett with some Brown & Sharp and Federal indicators.  The indicators all seem to be working just fine.  The Federal .0001 with the 3.5" face has pretty long travel.  The stuff was all stored in climate controlled room in a beautiful wooden rolling machinist cabinet.  The rulers and one of the drill chucks were laying in the bottom of the cabinet and unfortunately did get wet in the flood we had 3 years back.  Also laying in the bottom of the cabinet was some varsity size pieces of HSS, some endmills and taps.  The HSS on the top of the box is 1".  The light brown haze you see on things is sediment from the lake.  I was surprised that more of it wasn't rusted.


The neighbor really wanted me to take all of this so he could use the cabinet for something else.  He retained a set of Starrett mic's and a full set of Cleveland drills.  I know nothing about the original owner, but after going through all of this, the owner was either an unbelievable tool bit grinder and end mill sharpener or he had access to one.  Some fantastic contours ground into the HSS, and all of the endmills are razor sharp.  They all cleaned up really nice.





I tried to get the cabinet from him, but he wouldn't part with it........................yet.  I say yet because I seem to be the only one around that can keep the Holly carbs on his corvettes in their sweet spots.


----------



## hman

I envy your good fortune to have such a great neighbor!


----------



## pontiac428

One... last... piece... of workholding...

I sold a small lathe and bought a big lathe, so none of the tooling crossed over.  Not one bit.  One thing that is critical is the ability to hold small work and spin it fast.  This is one of the first things I'll need.  After I tear it down and clean it up.


----------



## snoopdog

I thought this was a duplicate of what I had, 901,pleasantly surprised when I got home. Wonder why they didn't include a holder in these?


----------



## brino

Eyerelief said:


> Moms neighbor has been after me for a couple months to look at some "stuff"





Eyerelief said:


> Its almost all Starrett with some Brown & Sharp and Federal indicators.







hman said:


> I envy your good fortune to have such a great neighbor!



I believe what John was trying to say is:
 


Great score!
Congratulations.
Brian


----------



## snoopdog

pontiac428 said:


> Ooh, just arrived!  This will probably see more work than  the others, 8" has a better RPM range and finer clamping than the big man chucks.
> 
> Just like the man said, new in box.  When I saw the... thing... on the end of the chuck key, I shrieked like a teenage girl who spotted a mouse.  I threw it on the ground and stomped on it until it was dead.  I don't do those socketed bit flip-flop screwdrivers, and I don't do chuck key springs.  Both are banned from my shop.  I'm going to make a sign.
> View attachment 432403


I know, my new chuck came with one, I had no idea, chucked the chuck spring, of course I didn't throw it away. Put it somewhere secure, so I can look for it later, when I need a spring.


----------



## rwdenney

A 3D printed CXA holder for two indicators. One for face measurement and the other for turning measurement. Much quicker and easier than a Noga for indicating in a workpiece in a 4-jaw. 

Rick “cheap” Denney


----------



## paradox_pete

Received some re-ground carbide end mills from ebay today.  Not sure just what I'm going to do with a 7/8" diamter ball end mill, but the rest should be useful.  
	

		
			
		

		
	




Also, found a Machinery's handbook (17th edition) at a local thrift store.  I made a Hemingway kits rotary broach as a Christmas gift, but still need to make the actual broaches.  Page 1070b will be very useful in this endeavor, as it shows the tolerance for the hex sockets....At least I now know what dimensions I should be shooting for.


I haven't found a chart for metric hex sockets, but it's probably in there somewhere....


----------



## erikmannie

I shouldn’t be buying anything until I pay off my debts, but this purchase snuck through the new rule:




I am hoping that it will pay for itself since I have 12 gas cylinders.

Most of the time that I am in the shop now involves having argon, C25, oxygen and/or acetylene in use.

I also refilled an 80 cu. ft. oxygen cylinder for a whopping $55. I knocked out this task before work on a long (11 hours paid) work day.


----------



## projectnut

paradox_pete said:


> Received some re-ground carbide end mills from ebay today.  Not sure just what I'm going to do with a 7/8" diamter ball end mill, but the rest should be useful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 432615
> 
> 
> Also, found a Machinery's handbook (17th edition) at a local thrift store.  I made a Hemingway kits rotary broach as a Christmas gift, but still need to make the actual broaches.  Page 1070b will be very useful in this endeavor, as it shows the tolerance for the hex sockets....At least I now know what dimensions I should be shooting for.
> 
> *I haven't found a chart for metric hex sockets, but it's probably in there somewhere....*


I seriously doubt you'll find much if any metric information in the 17th edition of the Machinery Handbook.  That edition was likely written in the late 1960's or early 1970's.  I have over a dozen different editions ranging from the 2nd to the 30th.  About the earliest mention of metrics is the 22nd edition which was written in the mid 1980's.


----------



## woodchucker

erikmannie said:


> I shouldn’t be buying anything until I pay off my debts, but this purchase snuck through the new rule:
> 
> View attachment 432623
> 
> 
> I am hoping that it will pay for itself since I have 12 gas cylinders.
> 
> Most of the time that I am in the shop now involves having argon, C25, oxygen and/or acetylene in use.
> 
> I also refilled an 80 cu. ft. oxygen cylinder for a whopping $55. I knocked out this task before work on a long (11 hours paid) work day.


Soapy water for $28?  I use a childs bubble solution and add water. Why bubble solution? it makes better bubbles than the soap I use around the house.


----------



## paradox_pete

projectnut said:


> I seriously doubt you'll find much if any metric information in the 17th edition of the Machinery Handbook.  That edition was likely written in the late 1960's or early 1970's.  I have over a dozen different editions ranging from the 2nd to the 30th.  About the earliest mention of metrics is the 22nd edition which was written in the mid 1980's.


You're right no metric in there.  Book is dated 1964 on the frontispiece.  That's OK, as the SAE dimensions give me a good idea of how close to nominal I should try to make metric ones....

-Pete


----------



## paradox_pete

woodchucker said:


> Soapy water for $28?  I use a childs bubble solution and add water. Why bubble solution? it makes better bubbles than the soap I use around the house.


I like the bubble solution option.

At work, checking for leaks on oxygen lines on air medical aircraft, I'm required to use a mil-spec solution.  We use Sherlock Leak detector. Inexplicably the solution has a shelf life, after which I can't use it at work, so the expired stuff is what I use at home.  Can't imagine anything in that solution actually goes bad....

-Pete


----------



## 682bear

woodchucker said:


> Soapy water for $28?  I use a childs bubble solution and add water. Why bubble solution? it makes better bubbles than the soap I use around the house.



The difference is that once the water evaporates from the soapy water, the residue is flammable... not good when dealing with cutting or welding gases.

The leak detector is not supposed to be flammable... 

The bubble solution is usually glycerin... I don't know whether the residue is flammable or not, but it is very similar to soap.

I've read where soapy water is recommended... but only if you remove all traces of it when finished.

-Bear


----------



## Janderso

Shotgun said:


> Yes.  It lasts from when you wife complains about the last purchase, right up until you unexpectedly see the next.
> 
> Which reminds me:  I haven't checked Craigslist today.  It is almost Free Treadmill season.


Free treadmill =  diy belt grinder


----------



## Janderso

pontiac428 said:


> Ooh, just arrived!  This will probably see more work than  the others, 8" has a better RPM range and finer clamping than the big man chucks.
> 
> Just like the man said, new in box.  When I saw the... thing... on the end of the chuck key, I shrieked like a teenage girl who spotted a mouse.  I threw it on the ground and stomped on it until it was dead.  I don't do those socketed bit flip-flop screwdrivers, and I don't do chuck key springs.  Both are banned from my shop.  I'm going to make a sign.
> View attachment 432403


Sweet


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## K30

woodchucker said:


> Soapy water for $28?  I use a childs bubble solution and add water. Why bubble solution? it makes better bubbles than the soap I use around the house.



Store bought bubble solution is basically dish soap, water and a bit of glycerine. You can make your own cheaper (for the kids too!)


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## rabler

I prefer my glycerin with a bit of nitric and sulfuric acid.  Definitely want that served over ice!


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## rabler

Ben17484 said:


> As a newbie, can I ask why you don’t like the sprung keys?


Try fitting a small piece in the chuck or doing some sort of delicate alignment while tightening down the chuck.  If you're having to force the key into the chuck it makes it a lot harder to tighten/loosen it a little bit, usually with your left hand, while holding something with your right.  Being right handed, and not of extraordinary dexterity, that gets annoying.


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## lordbeezer

Free on Craigslist. Artist’s box. Looked to be 2 maybe 2.5 ft wide. Top and bottom. Thought I’d put taps, whatever in it. Old. Heavy. Well built. Gonna be free again on Craigslist. Found a monopoly card from 1936.


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## silverhawk

great white said:


> Not exactly a machining thing, but useful for making things for machines:
> 
> View attachment 431915
> 
> Leather sewing patcher. Great for things like canvas dust covers, bags, holders, sheaths, etc…


Let us know how that thing does. 

Sent from my SM-T500 using Tapatalk


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## great white

silverhawk said:


> Let us know how that thing does.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T500 using Tapatalk











						Chinese leather "patcher" Sewing Machine
					

In my other sewing machine thread, I mentioned the cheap Chinese leather patcher to do thick leather projects. here's a sample picture of one:    Like all things chinese, it's pretty raw as delivered. No bearings, no bushings, threaded rod as pivots, sheetmetal bits and assorted “questionable”...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


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## DLF

Noga holder with bottom (magnet side) fine adjustment system. New-ish, in excellent condition.

Came with photo camera mount, so I will have to buy the dial indicator mount.
	

		
			
		

		
	




Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk


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