# Lathe Leveling question



## skelso (May 21, 2014)

I bought a used lathe that I am preparing to setup in my garage. Part of that preparation is buying a machinist level. Due to budget I am trying to get away with a 6" or 8" Starrett 98. I have 1-2-3 blocks to place on the  flats to get the level above the vees. The lathe hasn't arrived yet so I am having to make some assumptions. The first of which is that I will not be able to use the level by itself to span the ways. Per the spec sheet Romi sent me, the bed width is 8-7/8". My first thought is to place a parallel across the 1-2-3 blocks and put the level on top of it. However, I can't decide how thick they need to be to support the weight of the level without deflecting.

Enco has the following set that is within budget (parallel within 0.0005"): 3/4" X 1" X 9".

Think these would work? If not, any suggestions as far as what to use?

Thanks!  

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## Ray C (May 21, 2014)

skelso said:


> I bought a used lathe that I am preparing to setup in my garage. Part of that preparation is buying a machinist level. Due to budget I am trying to get away with a 6" or 8" Starrett 98. I have 1-2-3 blocks to place on the  flats to get the level above the vees. The lathe hasn't arrived yet so I am having to make some assumptions. The first of which is that I will not be able to use the level by itself to span the ways. Per the spec sheet Romi sent me, the bed width is 8-7/8". My first thought is to place a parallel across the 1-2-3 blocks and put the level on top of it. However, I can't decide how thick they need to be to support the weight of the level without deflecting.
> 
> Enco has the following set that is within budget (parallel within 0.0005"): 3/4" X 1" X 9".
> 
> ...



There are many threads here on this topic and you might want to search for "Two Collar Method" or "Rollie Method".  These are procedures for aligning a lathe.  If you are doing mechanical modification to the ways or underside of the carriage, you'll need some high-quality precision squares and similar tools.  For basic setup of a lathe, you only need a half decent carpenter's level.  The general procedure is to level the lathe to your basic satisfaction -and this sometimes means making it "unlevel" enough to allow oil and coolant to migrate to the drain in the chip pan.  After that, the other procedures mentioned are employed and this involves taking test cuts and making shim adjustments until the lathe reaches it's natural alignment position.


Ray


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## skelso (May 21, 2014)

Thanks for the reply Ray. I have read a lot of those threads as well as the manufacturer's documentation and don't really have questions about the process (yet). 

I'm trying to decide if a 3/4" thick set of parallels will support the level across that span without deflecting. 

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## Tony Wells (May 21, 2014)

Yes, they will be rigid enough.


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## hvontres (May 22, 2014)

Tom over at Oxtool put up a couple of nice videos that go over initial alignment and also fine adjustment using test cuts. I have used his method on my clausing and gotten the taper down to .00015" over 6"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIDL77qt1tI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GErhXyUb2Go

One more thing,
if your lathe has been out of level for a while, you might need to re-do the alignment after a week or two. The bed will take a while to "get used to" its new shape.


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## frostheave (May 22, 2014)

I am with Ray.  Here is how I did it with my Grizzly G4003G 12x36.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=18734

Bob




Ray C said:


> There are many threads here on this topic and you might want to search for "Two Collar Method" or "Rollie Method".  These are procedures for aligning a lathe.  If you are doing mechanical modification to the ways or underside of the carriage, you'll need some high-quality precision squares and similar tools.  For basic setup of a lathe, you only need a half decent carpenter's level.  The general procedure is to level the lathe to your basic satisfaction -and this sometimes means making it "unlevel" enough to allow oil and coolant to migrate to the drain in the chip pan.  After that, the other procedures mentioned are employed and this involves taking test cuts and making shim adjustments until the lathe reaches it's natural alignment position.
> 
> 
> Ray


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## skelso (May 24, 2014)

Thanks everyone for the replies. I just got home from a business trip out of state and forgot to pack my laptop charger so I haven't been able to read them until now. Good news is my lathe will be here tomorrow and the stuff I ordered from Enco will be here mid week so I'm pretty close to being able to start.


Ray, I re-read my reply to you and want to apologize if it came across wrong. I was trying to beat the dying laptop battery so I tried to make it short and in doing so I think I came across ungrateful. I do appreciate your reply. I am planning to first level using the method in the manufacturer's documentation, then make some test cuts and adjust to true it up (as you mentioned).


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## Ray C (May 24, 2014)

skelso said:


> Thanks everyone for the replies. I just got home from a business trip out of state and forgot to pack my laptop charger so I haven't been able to read them until now. Good news is my lathe will be here tomorrow and the stuff I ordered from Enco will be here mid week so I'm pretty close to being able to start.
> 
> 
> Ray, I re-read my reply to you and want to apologize if it came across wrong. I was trying to beat the dying laptop battery so I tried to make it short and in doing so I think I came across ungrateful. I do appreciate your reply. I am planning to first level using the method in the manufacturer's documentation, then make some test cuts and adjust to true it up (as you mentioned).



No worries or apology necessary...  I didn't see/read anything unusual at all...


Ray


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