# Deckel knock-off tool grinding



## Larry$ (Oct 18, 2020)

I have a Shars knock off of the Deckel. I'd like to find a good site showing how to do all the operations it is capable of.
Suggestions?
If you have one of these machines, I'd like to hear your experiences with it.


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## C-Bag (Oct 18, 2020)

There are a bunch of vids of the U2 & U3 on YouTube. Stefan Gotteswinter has a good one.


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## ub27Rocks (Oct 18, 2020)

Find the Deckel S0 and S1 manuals online, they are very educational. After that Stefan and Robin Renzetti are your youtube options.


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## NC Rick (Oct 18, 2020)

I have one of those also.  It is really a time sucker!  I am geometrically challenged so you may do much better.  It works well.


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## C-Bag (Oct 18, 2020)

NC Rick said:


> I have one of those also.  It is really a time sucker!  I am geometrically challenged so you may do much better.  It works well.


Lol, “geometrically challenged”. I think I’m in that same boat. If I ran it more I’d be more comfortable with it. I had like 10 or 15 endmills I needed to sharpen so I got a good grasp on the idea. But then it was months before I needed to use it again and it took a bit to remember. I know I’ve not made my $$ back, but it has saved my bacon enough times that I wouldn’t get rid of it. Many a project would have been dead without it. I think maybe the Darex style of sharpener would be more straight forward but this clone can do anything within its envelope the Darex can do. It just takes a clear picture in my head to get there.


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## NC Rick (Oct 18, 2020)

C-Bag said:


> Lol, “geometrically challenged”. I think I’m in that same boat. If I ran it more I’d be more comfortable with it. I had like 10 or 15 endmills I needed to sharpen so I got a good grasp on the idea. But then it was months before I needed to use it again and it took a bit to remember. I know I’ve not made my $$ back, but it has saved my bacon enough times that the I wouldn’t get rid of it. Many a project would have been dead without it. I think maybe the Darex style of sharpener would be more straight forward but this clone can do anything within its envelope the Darex can do. It just takes a clear picture in my head to get there.


I plan to try using my grinder to regrind my 14N Jacobs Chuck jaws.  Wish me luck!  I think it will be just the trick.


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## C-Bag (Oct 18, 2020)

NC Rick said:


> I plan to try using my grinder to regrind my 14N Jacobs Chuck jaws.  Wish me luck!  I think it will be just the trick.


Woa, cool. Please take some pic’s of your setup.

There is so much this thing can do if you can wrap your head around it’s 4 axis. The only thing I wish it had was more room on the x axis beyond the casting that holds the end of the main pivot rod, whatever the thing is called. I think Robin R did a mod to his for that.

 I used mine with the diamond wheel to make some custom metric tool steel dog point screws. It’s very useful to be able to grind shallow cutter angles for brass so it doesn’t dig in. Also to grind the cutter with no dish to take a bushing to clearance height. Then reface the cutter back to dish for standard milling. Progress, not perfection.


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## pontiac428 (Oct 18, 2020)

I get weird with my Shars Deckel (Sheckel?) grinder.

For example, I rigged up this:



To make this.



Here, I rigged up a radius grinder to sharpen my Rennsteig hand scraper.  You can see the brass tit that I installed to mark center.  I actually chucked the axis post in the lathe and drilled to locate center.  Also Kipp levers


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## C-Bag (Oct 18, 2020)

(Sheckel?) LOL!

i made a holder for my scraper like Stefan’s. Sorry, no pix so guess it didn’t happen


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## Larry$ (Oct 19, 2020)

Thanks guys. I had struggled with the clamp on the main rod not holding. I had to twist it so hard that I was sure it would break. In the process it would always move out of position. I finally took it apart. The cast iron clamp was .0045" bigger than the shaft. The slit in the clamp was too short to allow the iron to flex enough to take that much clearance up. I pondered what to do to fix it. Had almost decided to bore and sleeve it. That would require some interesting fixturing and be risky given my skill level. Then the KISS light came on, just extend the slit. It worked.  I don't know why it took me so long to decide to try the mod. I've always modified almost every tool I own. (Not to the extent that Robin does!) 

Yesterday I set up like Stefan to grind the end of some end mills. Worked. 

C Bag "progress, not perfect" just what I did, finally. "The only thing I wish it had was more room on the x axis beyond the casting"  I agree with that...
NC Rick "Time sucker" And how!
Pontiac - Nice adaptations. 
ub27... I'll look for those manuals, again, thanks for the remind.


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## C-Bag (Oct 19, 2020)

good job LarryS$. My clamps all worked properly but the flute grinding attachment housing on mine was like .015 sloppy, not a slip fit like it should have been. So I bored and sleeved it. What a cluster that was! The casting had some super hard spots in it so I had to buy carbide tools to get er done. Now its a nice slip fit and I’ve not done another flute. What I’d done was I needed a 5/16 endmill and didn’t have one, but I had a metric one so I ground the flutes down to size even with the head being sloppy. Having the room to do so many cuts to get to size gave me practice and ended up getting it right for the finishing cut. I highly recommend using old dull mills to practice on. My old mill/drill came with a bunch of dull and messed up ones so I didn’t care if they ended up usable or not. That really helps. My brother had a bucket full of dead endmills I shoulda grabbed.

Another mod this could use is either a tiny roller or the probe to rotate that you hold the flute against when doing flutes. Not running any other tool grinders I don’t know if other setups have that, but why not? That would make it so much smoother instead of pulling against a static probe.

I didn’t know about the Shars version and went down the eBay rabbit hole bait and switch. I didn’t know anything but the little Deckel collets were available but found somebody who equipped them with R8. So that’s the route I went. With the Shars they went 5c, way superior for this application because of the ability to go through the collet. So I would think you’d not run out of x axis like I do with R8. I have learned to adapt, but not the wiz like Pontiac428. I did remove the 0 stops in the head to be able to do negative angles. I also want to make a dedicated dust collection head for it because it throws grinding dust everywhere!


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## Larry$ (Oct 19, 2020)

C-Bag said:


> good job LarryS$. My clamps all worked properly but the flute grinding attachment housing on mine was like .015 sloppy, not a slip fit like it should have been. So I bored and sleeved it. What a cluster that was! The casting had some super hard spots in it so I had to buy carbide tools to get er done. Now its a nice slip fit and I’ve not done another flute. What I’d done was I needed a 5/16 endmill and didn’t have one, but I had a metric one so I ground the flutes down to size even with the head being sloppy. Having the room to do so many cuts to get to size gave me practice and ended up getting it right for the finishing cut. I highly recommend using old dull mills to practice on. My old mill/drill came with a bunch of dull and messed up ones so I didn’t care if they ended up usable or not. That really helps. My brother had a bucket full of dead endmills I shoulda grabbed.
> 
> Another mod this could use is either a tiny roller or the probe to rotate that you hold the flute against when doing flutes. Not running any other tool grinders I don’t know if other setups have that, but why not? That would make it so much smoother instead of pulling against a static probe.
> 
> I didn’t know about the Shars version and went down the eBay rabbit hole bait and switch. I didn’t know anything but the little Deckel collets were available but found somebody who equipped them with R8. So that’s the route I went. With the Shars they went 5c, way superior for this application because of the ability to go through the collet. So I would think you’d not run out of x axis like I do with R8. I have learned to adapt, but not the wiz like Pontiac428. I did remove the 0 stops in the head to be able to do negative angles. I also want to make a dedicated dust collection head for it because it throws grinding dust everywhere!


Tolerance control on Chinese tools are "highly variable."  Though 5C collets can pass the work through, the Shars tightening handle is solid, no hole. Even if it was well designed the problem with short X travel would still be there, I think? Cutters with long flutes, it doesn't seem like it would be a good idea to close the collets on the flutes. Maybe that's OK?? Anyone??


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## NC Rick (Oct 19, 2020)

I haven't used the flute sharpening adapter, that looks rather ambitious for me.  I do use it for form tools and cutters on the lathe using a square collet as opposed to switching out the adapter.  My machine isn't located well yet and it is really a commitment for me to use it.  Like I mentioned, time sucker...  yet the only real way to grind anything not free hand for me.  Was it worth it?  iDK, it's only been about a year since I got it.


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## pontiac428 (Oct 19, 2020)

I did have to install a helicoil in mine.  The lock for fixing the rotation of the shaft on the far right of the machine popped out of its threads.  Oversize hole, not enough thread engagement.  I had a metric helicoil kit on hand, so I took care of it.  I watched Robin Renzetti's video where he disassembles the main shaft so I knew the lefts and rights of it, and removed the shaft.  Drilled the hole with a hand drill, tapped it, and installed the helicoil with extra care to not leave any protrusions so the lock screw could pass all the way through.  That is also where I switched over to Kipp levers, since I didn't trust the threads on the others.  What an improvement.  I also lapped in the castings on the zenith, azimuth, and tilt axes for smoother motion.  And I deburred everything, particularly around the shaft bosses.  Huh, I'd kinda forgotten about doing all that.


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## Larry$ (Oct 20, 2020)

pontiac428 said:


> popped out of its threads. Oversize hole


Chinese hit or miss manufacturing. Comes as a kit. Re-installing the shaft made me think the Chinese ladys that assemble it have smaller hands and are more nimble than I am. Those 4mm hex head cap screws that hold the retaining plate for the main shaft are a treat to install. Good thing I've got a couple of magnetic pickups to fish them out of the casing, multiple times. 

I read, saved and printed the Deckel instructions for the SO. Next time I go to the shop will be trying/ experimenting now that I don't have to *arm wrestle* it. Nothing in the instructions about using it for anything other than single lip cutters. I note that it was assumed you were using an aluminum oxide or similar wheel and were dressing the edge of the wheel to a very fine, tapered edge. The Shars doesn't have a reference line on the main shaft nor the red dot reference mark. 
Being cheap, I've never purchased a set of counter bore tools. Always just used a near match end mill to get a flat bottom. I'm hoping that I can sharpen them to produce that flat bottom. I don't need to have it center cutting. 

Have any of you sharpened the flutes on an end mill? One small step at a time.


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## pontiac428 (Oct 20, 2020)

I've done flutes.  The premise is simple.  There is room for error in clocking that will still turn out a sharp tool, but hitting a specific diameter would be hard.  Flute grinding is where you will need extra band-aids.  Prepare them by pulling off half of the backing strip, and stick a row of them along the top of your Sheckel for easy access.  Blood can squirt pretty far, just something to be aware of.

The Deckel manual is a good source for D-bit profiles and info.  Everything from dovetails to gun drills.  The rest, like drill bits and end mills, is an aberrant application that will need to be figured out by you or learned from YouTube or in forum threads frequented by shady people.  I wish I could remember to take pictures while I'm working, but I don't.  It's usually an afterthought.


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## ub27Rocks (Oct 20, 2020)

Stefan shows how to do 4 facet drill grinds. Takes a few tries to get it into your head but works great. I made a viewing microscope to see progress.


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## Larry$ (Oct 20, 2020)

I've saved  dull router bits from our CNC machine. Now I intend to grind some of them to use on the mill. As designed for particleboard and MDF they also have cut aluminum quite well on the router. The drawback on the router is lack of lube. It has to be hand sprayed while machine is running. We don't have them sharpened and recoated because it comes too close to new cost ($80) and they have a different size and that risks not getting the machine parameters reset to the correct size.


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## Larry$ (Oct 21, 2020)

I went back to Stefan's video about grinding drill bits and he said it didn't hurt to hold on the flutes with the collet.
I've often held threads in a collet but wasn't sure if holding on to the sharp edges was a good idea. I'm making notes about various setups, screen grabs etc. for my file (on computer and printed out for use in the shop) on the grinder. Memory isn't good enough so that a year down the road...


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## Larry$ (Oct 26, 2020)

I tried sharpening a 5/16" four flute end mill. I couldn't get it set good enough to reach the center. Several problems showed up. First my sharpening wheel has slightly rounded edges making it impossible to reach the center and be flat. 2nd. there is a slight amount of flex in the grinder arm. Everything is tight but I have to be careful to try and exert the same force on every move. It isn't much but affects getting to exact center. 

I was trying for a flat cutting end. Wanted to be able to do counter bores. After several attempts the dim light came on. For a counterbore or most milling operations center cutting isn't required. Solution, set the end mill up on the milling machine and used a carbide drill to take out the center. Back to the tool grinder and take a cleanup cut on each flute. 

Back to mill for a test run on some mild steel. Very smooth flat cut. In all of the fooling around I had shortened the cutter enough to get away from any dulling on the sides of the flutes. That's rarely an issue anyhow. It had one edge chipped before I stared. 

Two flute end mills that I grind an inverted cone shape (5*+) on the end are a lot easier to do. And they cut fine but leave more machining marks, swerals. Sharpening a 4 flute HSS endmill isn't really worth the time. They are cheap. But so am I.


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## Larry$ (Oct 26, 2020)

ub27Rocks said:


> Stefan shows how to do 4 facet drill grinds. Takes a few tries to get it into your head but works great. I made a viewing microscope to see progress.


I watched that video. But I have never done all those angles on a bit and none of my commercially made bits have them. Maybe it's ideal but is it worth the trouble? I use a commercial bit to set the angles when I get ambitious enough to use the tool grinder. Otherwise I just use the bench grinder.


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## Larry$ (Oct 27, 2020)

C-Bag said:


> I did remove the 0 stops in the head to be able to do negative angles.


If you pull on the outer part of the stop it will disengage and allow you to move past the stop points. It is spring loaded. Loosening the little set screw will allow you to adjust the stop point using the hex, then retighten the set screw. I wish there were instructions for all the adjustments possible and when to use them and how to get everything set to exact zero. It can be figured out but some things aren't very obvious. I made a brass, knurled, threaded plug for the hole where you insert something to lock the spindle shaft. Trying to keep it clean. I need to make a better dust hood than just my shop vac hose end. 

The edge on my diamond cup wheel has become rounded. I'd like to get it square. I was thinking of just putting a diamond point in a collet and traversing the x-axis across the edge of the wheel, Will that work? or what is the "correct" way?


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## ub27Rocks (Oct 27, 2020)

The benefit of four facet is significantly lower feed pressure. My experience with smaller drills (2-10mm) bears this out. At same time I usually convert them to 135degree.

Not all grinders of the Deckel S0 style have that spring loaded plunger to lower the 0 detent. Alexander e.g. had it only on their later versions, mine not being one of them. I will get ambitious one day and retrofit a similar mechanism.

Several good articles on drill geometry: 
- http://www.neme-s.org/2005 May Meeting/drills.pdf 
- https://www.newmantools.com/machines/drillpoint.html An article by Joseph Mazoff


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## Larry$ (Oct 28, 2020)

ub27Rocks said:


> The benefit of four facet is significantly lower feed pressure. My experience with smaller drills (2-10mm) bears this out. At same time I usually convert them to 135degree.
> 
> Not all grinders of the Deckel S0 style have that spring loaded plunger to lower the 0 detent. Alexander e.g. had it only on their later versions, mine not being one of them. I will get ambitious one day and retrofit a similar mechanism.
> 
> ...


I read the articles. And I agree that having a secondary relief or web thinning would make for easier penetration. On small bits I've usually ground greater relief angles than what they come with. 135* bits do seem to walk less. I never use large diameter bits w/o pilot drilling. The bits I use most often are a set of Cobalt screw machine bits. I found out how brittle they are when I dropped one. I've ground some bits with the 4 facets but for my hobby work I'm not sure it is worth the extra fooling around. Most often I just do a quick grind on the bench grinder.  Been doing that for a long time before I got the tool grinder. We've got a Weinig profile grinder for profile blades. I can make a template for most any shape and grind two or 4 knives to nearly identical diameters while installed in the head. We always do a secondary grind. Same idea as your 4 facet grind.  The catch is there has to be some clearance between the body of the head and the spindle, so not all knives will be doing the same amount of work. You have to assume you are just getting a single knife finish. There are molders that have profile stones to bring all knives to the same exact diameter. Each time that stone is lowered onto the spinning blades the result is more healing action, friction. You start to see burnishing. Those machine can feed at more than 12 feet a second. Second, not minute.


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## NC Rick (Oct 28, 2020)

Larry$ said:


> If you pull on the outer part of the stop it will disengage and allow you to move past the stop points. It is spring loaded. Loosening the little set screw will allow you to adjust the stop point using the hex, then retighten the set screw. I wish there were instructions for all the adjustments possible and when to use them and how to get everything set to exact zero. It can be figured out but some things aren't very obvious. I made a brass, knurled, threaded plug for the hole where you insert something to lock the spindle shaft. Trying to keep it clean. I need to make a better dust hood than just my shop vac hose end.
> 
> The edge on my diamond cup wheel has become rounded. I'd like to get it square. I was thinking of just putting a diamond point in a collet and traversing the x-axis across the edge of the wheel, Will that work? or what is the "correct" way?


I don't think you want to dress diamond with a diamond.  It seems like the way I had heard to do it was at a lower speed with a silicon carbide abrasive which wears quickly.  The Shars diamond wheels are not very expensive, I'd be tempted to get a new one and use the old one in all the ways I'm not supposed to  
I have purchased extra hubs to make for quicker and more repeatable wheel changes.


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## C-Bag (Oct 28, 2020)

NC Rick said:


> I don't think you want to dress diamond with a diamond.  It seems like the way I had heard to do it was at a lower speed with a silicon carbide abrasive which wears quickly.  The Shars diamond wheels are not very expensive, I'd be tempted to get a new one and use the old one in all the ways I'm not supposed to
> I have purchased extra hubs to make for quicker and more repeatable wheel changes.


Is yours a Shars unit too? I would like to find extra hubs too but the Shars ones are not the same size as my clone


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## NC Rick (Oct 28, 2020)

C-Bag said:


> Is yours a Shars unit too? I would like to find extra hubs too but the Shars ones are not the same size as my clone


my Machine is the genuine article, a real Shars     It's been a while but I think the arbor o.d. is different than many others (20 vs 25mm??) but I thought the taper Mount was the same.  I also think if you ask or look in the catalog, shars may have both styles.  I wasn't prepared nor skilled enough to do the Stephan thing and make my own!


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## Janderso (Oct 28, 2020)

It would be great to have one of those. I just can't justify the expense for a hobby guy.
It sure would be fun to be able to cut all those angles, sharpen everything. look at the money a guy could save.
How much is the full kit from Shars?? With all the attachments?

A cool grand $$$$$$$$$$






						Universal End Mill Cutter Drill Bit Grinder Sharpener
					

Shars Tool




					www.shars.com


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## NC Rick (Oct 28, 2020)

Janderso said:


> It would be great to have one of those. I just can't justify the expense for a hobby guy.
> It sure would be fun to be able to cut all those angles, sharpen everything. look at the money a guy could save.
> How much is the full kit from Shars?? With all the attachments?
> 
> ...


If you put value on your time the buy in price is just the tip of the iceburg. 
I bought mine because I'm frustrated by not having a surface grinder, want to make special tool geometry (most have been for the lathe) and to try to learn and become more skilled / less geometrically challenged.  The monetary justification for me likely comes from the learning aspect.  Now I get to make all those cheap Chinesium brazed carbide boring and turning tools actually cut like they are supposed to.  I could have bought a lot of good quality tools and been ahead but if I get another 20-30 years of play time I'll recalculate.


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## C-Bag (Oct 28, 2020)

NC Rick said:


> my Machine is the genuine article, a real Shars     It's been a while but I think the arbor o.d. is different than many others (20 vs 25mm??) but I thought the taper Mount was the same.  I also think if you ask or look in the catalog, shars may have both styles.  I wasn't prepared nor skilled enough to do the Stephan thing and make my own!


Thanks for that head up Rick. The Shars website seems to be getting better to navigate. But I swear that smaller hub was not on their site before. Now I just need to find the time to pull the hub on mine to confirm it’s the right one.

Has anybody pulled the hub before? I’ve heard some mention a puller but they seem to think everyone got one or made one. I would just like to swap between my stone and diamond wheels without having to rebalance.


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## Larry$ (Oct 28, 2020)

NC Rick, Look @ Stefan's video about these machines. He shows a puller he made.
I was just looking @ Shars catalog, They now list an endmill sharpener, a bit more $.
I've got to get a couple more abrasive wheels.


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## pontiac428 (Oct 28, 2020)

C-Bag said:


> I’ve heard some mention a puller but they seem to think everyone got one or made one.


You will need to make one.  It's basically a threaded rod.

The correct part number for the Shars hub is in their catalog in the main listing for the grinder.  I bought a few extra.  They were having stock issues for awhile on those, but that was last year.


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## NC Rick (Oct 28, 2020)

C-Bag said:


> Thanks for that head up Rick. The Shars website seems to be getting better to navigate. But I swear that smaller hub was not on their site before. Now I just need to find the time to pull the hub on mine to confirm it’s the right one.
> 
> Has anybody pulled the hub before? I’ve heard some mention a puller but they seem to think everyone got one or made one. I would just like to swap between my stone and diamond wheels without having to rebalance.


I pulled mine with a little puller bolt, after watching S.G. do it on YouTube I figured it was worth a try.  It was no problem at all.


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## pontiac428 (Oct 28, 2020)

Here's the puller that I made.  I just measured the thread and prototyped on the fly (totally winging it).  It's really just a fancy bolt.  The flats are for a wrench, to break it loose, then I can speed it the rest of the way without any interfering handles.  I can't remember if it's mystery stainless or W1 tool steel, but it's one of those.


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## Larry$ (Oct 29, 2020)

A new Stefan G video on the tool grinder. "Indexable parting blade and dbit grinding" Oct 24, 2020
This is a better video with close ups of setting all the various angles. It includes how to go negative, past zero and still have the use of the degree scale. Rotate the scale to the opposite stop & lock, pull the spring loaded sleeve and move the arm to the desired negative location. Very simple once shown. He was grinding a small 15* dovetail cutter. He started with a broken carbide tool and did the split down the middle grind. On one of the Tool and Die Guy videos he recommended just buying already split blanks and saving your diamond wheel. 

Learn a little more every day at the YouTube U.


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## pontiac428 (Oct 29, 2020)

@Larry$, that reminds me of another "mod" that I did- I set the scales to +5 degrees, and used a punch to make a dimple at the zero mark.  Now I have a point of reference for -5 degrees.  You can continue as far as needed, but I just wanted to be able to eyeball 5 to 7 degrees over center.  Comes in really handy.


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## Janderso (Nov 6, 2020)

I'm paying attention, I just ordered the Shars kit . End mills, lathe tools, drill bits and anything else I can come up with. After watching Stephan's adventures, I decided to go for it.
I talked myself out of it on October 28th, according to my post.
I feel good about the decision. I hope the quality is ok.


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## Papa Charlie (Nov 6, 2020)

@Janderso, So Jeff, is this the unit you ordered?






						Universal End Mill Cutter Drill Bit Grinder Sharpener
					

Shars Tool




					www.shars.com


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## Janderso (Nov 6, 2020)

Papa Charlie said:


> @Janderso, So Jeff, is this the unit you ordered?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes,
That's the one.
I'm waiting for Shars to contact me with the freight charge.


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## brino (Nov 6, 2020)

Janderso said:


> I just ordered the Shars kit .



Nice, I'm jealous!
-brino


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## Janderso (Nov 6, 2020)

pontiac428 said:


> Here's the puller that I made.  I just measured the thread and prototyped on the fly (totally winging it).  It's really just a fancy bolt.  The flats are for a wrench, to break it loose, then I can speed it the rest of the way without any interfering handles.  I can't remember if it's mystery stainless or W1 tool steel, but it's one of those.
> View attachment 342278


Mr. Pontiac,
I'm not sure what your tool is used for?
I'll keep this pic in my file.


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## Stonebriar (Nov 6, 2020)

Janderso said:


> Yes,
> That's the one.
> I'm waiting for Shars to contact me with the freight charge.



Hey I just got an email from Shars promoting their Black Monday sale with 20% off their items. You might be able to save a few bucks. 11/26-11/30

Also please let us know what the shipping runs to your place. I am thinking about this item also.


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## Janderso (Nov 6, 2020)

Hmm,
They haven't got back to me yet for freight. I'll ask them if this is going to be in the sale.


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## brino (Nov 6, 2020)

Janderso said:


> Mr. Pontiac,
> I'm not sure what your tool is used for?



Jeff, I believe it's for removing a grinding cup or wheel from the spindle taper.

Stefan Gotteswinter uses one at about 16:31 into this video:





-brino


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## Janderso (Nov 7, 2020)

Brino, thanks man.
That’s a very good instructional video.


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## Stonebriar (Nov 7, 2020)

pontiac428 said:


> The correct part number for the Shars hub is in their catalog in the main listing for the grinder. I bought a few extra. They were having stock issues for awhile on those, but that was last year.



 I didn't see anything listed as a hub. Is it any of this stuff listed?


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## pontiac428 (Nov 7, 2020)

Here you go, @Stonebriar 





						Grinding Wheel Adapter for 1-1/4" Arbor Hole
					

Shars Tool




					www.shars.com


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## Stonebriar (Nov 8, 2020)

Janderso said:


> Hmm,
> They haven't got back to me yet for freight. I'll ask them if this is going to be in the sale.


 
Good i am waiting to order until I hear the answer. Thanks.


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## Janderso (Nov 8, 2020)

pontiac428 said:


> Here you go, @Stonebriar
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oh man, I've been buying these from McMaster -Sopko. I think they run $69 plus shipping.
Shars would be good enough for me.


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## 7milesup (Nov 8, 2020)

Hey Jeff... I know that you are committed to the Shars unit, but if you feel real adventurous you can make a universal sharpening tool.  
I ordered the plans for ---> This Unit<---
There are a few guys on here that have made one. Jack Coffman is one of them.


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## pontiac428 (Nov 8, 2020)

There's also the Quorn.  But if I had a Cutter Master with some good attachments, I'd consider parting with the Sheckel.


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## Janderso (Nov 8, 2020)

Rex just finished the Quorn.
That looks like a no nonsense machinist project.


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## 7milesup (Nov 8, 2020)

I did a bunch of research on tool and cutter grinders and as far as the home brew variety, it seemed that the Quorn was needlessly complex.  That is why I chose the Acto.


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## ddickey (Nov 9, 2020)

This one is as good as any of them and plans are free. I made one ,haven't used it yet though.








						Another Tool & Cutter Grinder
					

I said a couple weeks ago I was going to start another tool and cutter grinder. Well , it is starting now. This was idea was started by myself and a friend of mine discussing tool sharpening. We came up with the idea to build a tool and cutter grinder that is much simpler to build than a Quorn...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


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## 7milesup (Nov 9, 2020)

ddickey said:


> This one is as good as any of them and plans are free. I made one ,haven't used it yet though.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oh yes, I forgot about that one.  
I am wondering if/how to go about utilizing my surface grinder to sharpen tools and cutters.  Seems like I could just build the "upper" part of the T&C and utilize the X,Y,Z of the SG.


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## Janderso (Nov 9, 2020)

I bought the wedge to sharpen end mills on my surface grinder. It is not the best set up IMHO.
I just placed the order for the Shars tool and cutter grinder kit after confirming freight charges of $182.
This is exciting, an early Christmas, well that's if the freight company delivers by Christmas.


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