# Pm1440gt Ordered



## dpb (Oct 15, 2016)

Hi Everyone,
New guy here.  After months of thought and staring at stuff online, I jumped in with both feet and ordered a PM1440GT to be my first lathe.  I talked with Matt for a bit, and ordered it with a 3ph motor, and the Hitachi VFD.  The lathe is currently expected in my driveway sometime around the 1st of Dec.  I have already received the VFD.
Upon unboxing the VFD, and attempting to comprehend the instruction book, I read through JBolt's process with the same equipment.  I have to admit that the gut & re-wire process has me a bit intimidated.  I haven't done anything like this before.  Household wiring, yes. Motor control systems, no.  Still undecided as to whether I want to attempt the re-wire on my own, or hire it out.  I'd like to do it myself, but I would definitely need some help interpreting the diagrams MKSJ provided & JBolt posted.
This forum is awesome, I'm spending an irresponsible amount of time here.


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## TomS (Oct 15, 2016)

Don't forget to post pictures when your new toy arrives.  We all want to see it.

Tom S.


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## tweinke (Oct 15, 2016)

New guy old guy no difference, I will bet if you want to tackle the wiring yourself if you ask for help you will get it. As to the irresponsible amount of time issue, well that will only get worse.


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## jbolt (Oct 16, 2016)

dpd, 

If you are comfortable with household wiring you should have no problem taking this on. The wiring is not all that difficult once you get into it. I still don't fully understand how all the low volt relay wiring works I just followed the schematic from mksj. At some point I will look at the relay sheet to fully understand it.  The rest is really straight forward.

You need to decide is if you want the extra options the VFD provides or just use the VFD for power. I think it is worth it to do the extras. I went a little over the top compared to what most do but that's just the way I am. It is certainly possible to do a minimal foot print install and keep the electronics in the factory location. The VFD would need to be mounted in or on the base or remotely on a wall. 

Look at all the various configurations that mksj has done for the 1340gt. They are all very similar. The main difference with the 1440gt is keeping the mechanical brake that requires a new double pole switch to replace the factory single pole. The switch is used to send a power off and freewheel commands to the VFD so the electronic braking does not interfere with the mechanical brake. 

Don't hesitate to ask for help. It's a fun process to go through and you will know your machine better in the end.


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## dpb (Oct 23, 2016)

Given my current (low) level of experience, I believe I would like to keep the controls in the factory configuration.  I'll use the mechanical braking function of the existing foot brake, and I'll need power for the factory coolant pump, factory light, and DRO.  
Things may become somewhat clearer once the machine is sitting in front of me.


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## dpb (Oct 23, 2016)

Forgot the tach.  Definitely want a tachometer with the VFD.


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## mksj (Oct 24, 2016)

A number of individuals using a VFD on the PM1340 and 1440 laths have disconnected the high voltage wiring going to the forward and reverse contactors, leaving all the other wiring intact. They then use one set of contacts on each contactor to connect the common/P24 of the VFD to the VFD input 1 for forward and input 2 for reverse. This will function just like the stock machine controls, you would add a speed pot. The motor is directly wired to the VFD. The tricky portion is how the coolant is connected. In some machines (1440GT) there are jumpers from the motor contactors to the coolant contactor, so the coolant needs to be directly wired to the switched mains voltage. As far as I am aware, the coolant pumps on the PM1340 and 1440 machines are single phase. Single phase power going to the machine is usually connected to L1 and L3, but can also be R and S  (i.e. the two high voltage terminals that connect power to the system transformer. If you have a schematic or manual, I can provide some assistance in suggestions.  Also some pictures of control system board when you get the machine. 
Example on the PM1340GT which is very basic.  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/thre...control-board-and-switches.49022/#post-413995

A complete system rebuild is doable, but you need to trace out all the wire connections to the different safety switches, these are usually serially wired with the E-Stop. You need to build a new control board and add relay logic controls. A bit more complicated if you want to do a complete control system such as Jbolt did, it takes some planning and understanding of wiring. I can provide you with recommended programming parameters for the WJ200 depending on the build approach you want to take. I do not recommend directly connecting the VFD to the spindle direction controls and bypassing the safety interlocks, there are some work arounds to make this work, but it represents a safety issue in my book.

On the tach, I would recommend a basic eBay Hall sensor tachs or the MachTach 1/2 half size (requires building), either can be mounted in a Hammond 1590B diecast box. I went with a MacTach, but I have done a number of subsequent builds using the eBay ones in a Hammond box, and they where accurate, worked well and are inexpensive. If you do not need the additional features of the MachTach, I recommend the eBay ones with a Hall sensor and a single magnet. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hammond-159...x-Diy-Motley-Mods-fast-shipping-/172377067384
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Red...all-Proximity-Switch-Sensor-NPN-/171385171075
http://www.machtach.com


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## jbolt (Oct 24, 2016)

The coolant pump is single phase and there is no wiring schematic in the manual. 

I went with the ebay tach and it works fine.


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## dpb (Oct 24, 2016)

Ordered the Ebay tach, and the Hammond box.  Any suggestions for the pot?


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## jbolt (Oct 25, 2016)

I used this one. https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...icators/22mm_Metal/Potentiometers/ECX2300-10K


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## mksj (Oct 25, 2016)

You would want the 5K version of this 22mm pot.  https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...dicators/22mm_Metal/Potentiometers/ECX2300-5K
They work well and fit the 22mm hole. I have also turned a 22mm to 3/8" bushing and you can use any type of standard linear pot in the 1k or 2K range. Examples below.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Allen-Bradley-Type-J-1K-Pot-Potentiometer-NNB-JAIN056S102MA-/321994258839
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clarostat-RV4NAYSD202A-2k-Ohms-53C3-2K-S-20-9211-Potentiometer-/172237068762


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## dpb (Nov 9, 2016)

Pot ordered.  Lathe still due around 12/1.  I'm adding the DRO & Aloris BXA.  Are there any other electrical components I need to be ordering to do a basic VFD install?
Thanks for the help, this is great.


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## tmarks11 (Nov 10, 2016)

The Hitachi VFD is a great unit.  I had a TECO that was bad from the factory, and bought the Hitachi WJ200 instead and loved it.


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## mksj (Nov 10, 2016)

You will need a cabinet for the VFD with some type of passive or active venting (added). The minimum cabinet size is probably 12 x 12 x 8 deep.  Power disconnect switch (30-40A 2 or 3 pole), Braking resistor, for the specific VFD you purchase. The 3 phase PM1440GT comes with a 3 Hp motor (2 Hp on the single phase), so you would need the WJ200-022SF if running off of single phase input. If you do not have the machine on a dedicated breaker, you might consider a local breaker or fusing. You could also use the fuse holders in the machine, but the fusing for VFDs is different and requires high speed fuses.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiegmann-Gr...e-12-x12-x8-Vented-HFWS10350861-/201566256259
http://www.ebay.com/itm/new-sce-electric-enclosure-sce-14128elj-nema-4-12-13/351649070472
Cooling can be passive with two 4" aluminum screened soffit vents, or active with something like a 120mm fan. When using a fan, I recommend installing it on the bottom and having it blow into the cabinet (positive pressure) and a screened outlet either on the top or the side of the cabinet.

Braking Resistor: anything in the 35-50 Ohm range 300-500W for the WJ200-022SF
http://www.ebay.com/itm/500W-50ohm-...resistance-Dummy-Load-for-Audio-/231092889325
http://www.alliedelec.com/ohmite-wfh330l50rje/70588550/

I am still not sure how you want to configure your machine to work with the VFD. I did help another individual who did a similar install on the 1440GT using the installed contactors as the relays for the VFD inputs. He was going to post his work, so I will send him and email to see if he can do it. It is a bit more complicated in the 1440GT because the coolant pump high voltage wiring also needs to be factored in.
Mark


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## dpb (Nov 19, 2016)

If I plan on retaining the mechanical foot brake, is the braking resistor still necessary and / or useful?


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## tmarks11 (Nov 19, 2016)

dpb said:


> If I plan on retaining the mechanical foot brake, is the braking resistor still necessary and / or useful?



If you want to hook up a "micrometer stop" sort of solution for threading into a shoulder or inside a blind hole?  Yes.


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## dpb (Dec 4, 2016)

Ordered the enclosure & braking resistor.  PM has contacted me, looking for the rest of their $$, the lathe should be here this month.


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## dpb (Dec 12, 2016)

post deleted


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## dpb (Dec 20, 2016)

Lathe is shipping today, arriving sometime next week.  Finger tapping commenced.


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## dpb (Dec 21, 2016)

Due to arrive 12/28, UPS freight.  I paid for lift gate delivery, UPS guy I spoke to today said they should be able to place it in my detached garage for me.  "As long as you don't want us to put it in your house." Hopefully the driver is equally agreeable.  This will save me some troubles & $$.


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## jbolt (Dec 21, 2016)

If you can wheel a pallet jack into the garage it should be no problem. They were great when they delivered mine.


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## dpb (Dec 29, 2016)

It was delivered yesterday, I'll post pics when I get a chance.  UPS had to call a second truck in to get another pallet jack to get it up my driveway, but that worked out, and they put it right where I wanted it.  I had previously reinforced my rafter directly above it, and used a chain hoist to get the pallet out from under it, and place it on the pads.  Worked perfectly.


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## dpb (Jan 6, 2017)

Some pictures of delivery & initial set-up.  I'm working with mksj to do the VFD conversion, so I haven't yet made any chips.  I've cleaned off all the cosmoline, which was a bit of a job.  I borrowed a Starrett .0005" / foot level to get it leveled, which went smoothly, if a little tediously.  As best as I can tell thus far, the bed dips, or sags, about .0005" in the middle, and I was able to remove all detectable twist.  The controls all seem to work smoothly, all three hand wheels are silky smooth, gear changes take a minimal amount of spindle movement. 
 I had QMT install the Easson 12b DRO, which looks like a great unit, reading .00005" on the cross slide, and .0002" on the carriage.  When set up for 2 axis lathe install, it shows the cross slide as X, and the carriage as Y, where I am used to the carriage being Z, but this doesn't bother me.
The lathe came with the 3 jaw chuck installed.  When tested with a .001" indicator, it appears to have about .0007" run out, which seems fantastic.  The spindle itself shows no movement whatsoever, using the same indicator.
I installed the included 4 jaw chuck, the cam locks were not installed, so that took a little fiddling to get everything mated up properly. Once I got it installed, I easily got it down to zero detectable run out.
So far, so good.












Lathe Delivery



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UPS truck delivery.












Lathe Delivery 2



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UPS brought it about 100' up my driveway, and put it down right where I wanted it.












Lathe Delivery 3



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__ Jan 5, 2017





Crate removed.












Lathe Delivery 4



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Lathe Delivery 5



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Lifting it off the pallet.


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