# My Heavy 10 Rebuild



## Codered741

Well I finally have it!  My own 1941 South Bend Heavy 10 lathe!  Its filthy, hasn't been used in 10+ years, and is a little worse for the wear, but its mine!:thumbsup:

I am planning on doing a partial restoration, even if that just means take it apart and clean it.  Which is an absolute must, due to the conditions that it was stored in.  I found it in LA, it was stored in a garage, that was PACKED full of stuff.  As you can see by the photos, it has 10-15 years of grime, and dried out grease and oil caked all over it.  

So over the next couple of months, i'll be working on a rebuild/restoration, just not sure that how far that I want to go with it.  Full restoration, or just clean it up to make it work?  I plan on keeping it as a working lathe, so im leaning towards just cleaning it up, changing the wicks, etc.  But it could use a coat of paint too.  Here are the photos!

In the trailer, ready to hit the road!



Touchdown in its New home!



Single lever QC gearbox



Taper Attachment!!!



Serial number.  











Steady rest, 4 jaw, and accessories.



More pictures will follow, as I get it disassembled and cleaned!

-Cody


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## Ulma Doctor

Nice Score Cody!!!
she looks like she's in pretty good shape.
i'm sure you'll have a blast gettin' her going.


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## woodtickgreg

Ah yes, let the obsession begin! Nice score. I said the same thing, "i'll just clean it up and rewick it" well you know how that goes. I can just paint it, and this won't hurt to polish a little, and before I knew what hit me a full on restore was happening. Get the rebuild book and felt kit off of ebay and your off to a great start. The book is a very valuable source of info, it shows how to get things apart without damaging them, and how to rout the felts too.


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## ChuckB

Congrats! Might as well bite the bullet and get it over with. Look at Gregs thread.. it will modivate you to do a full restore.


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## Codered741

Small update, 

Got the lathe up and running today, even made a few chips!  Hooked it up to a VFD that I had laying around (I love my job), and she spun right up just like a dream!  

Not wanting to damage any bearings by running them dry, I shut it down, and started to just wipe it down as best I could.  Found a bit more wear on the ways than I thought there was, nothing tremendous, but maybe a reason to learn to scrape!  The compound also has a bit of "custom work" on it, so I think i'll be breaking out the brazing rod and torch and clean it up a bit.  The paint is also flaking off pretty bad in places, so it looks like I might as well just do a complete teardown and fix her up right.  

Headed over to eBay and ordered the rebuild kit, manual, and recommended oils.  They should arrive in the next couple of days, and if i get some time off work, the disassembly will begin!!

Ill get photos up as I begin the process!

-Cody


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## Codered741

A little bit of progress today, pretty happy with the results.  Though if i want to get this project done this year, I had better get faster!

Found some evapo-rust.  This stuff is magic!  I have used rust removers in the past, phosphoric acid mainly, couple of other formulas, none have worked so easily as this!

Steady rest completely restored.  

Cleaned, stripped, sanded, cleaned again, primed and painted.  




This was my only day off, so progress will be slow for the foreseeable future...

Also received my rebuild kit and manual, along with the recommended oils kit.  

-Cody


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## woodtickgreg

Don't beat yourself up as far as how fast or slow things go. Life gets in the way for most of us that still go to work everyday, then juggle family time and friends into the mix and maybe a little side work too. My lathe is 98% done, just gotta finish the wiring, and I am so busy I can't seem to find the time to finish it, and I need it so bad. If the rest of the lathe comes out as good as the steady rest did you'll do just fine. Enjoy the process and working on the lathe or may loose interest and never get her done. Your off to a good start.


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## Codered741

Well finally got a day off of work, and even a little time in the garage.  

Started taking off covers and figuring out how to best go about cleaning things.  Spent about 2 hrs scrubbing the gear housing, and the bull gear guards....  ugh...  I need to find something a bit more potent than simple green.  

Rebuild manual and wicks arrived some time in the last couple of day, and hopefully I will begin tackling the QC gearbox tomorrow.  

Somewhat of a side topic, I already know that I want a QC Toolpost, but im stuck on which size to buy.  AXA or 100 says its good up to 12", but BXA or 200 ranges from 10-15.  I'm somewhat leaning towards the BXA, to get as much rigidity and mass as possible.  Opinions and experience are welcome.  

Also starting some drawings for a DIY handwheel collet closer.  

I should have some photos tomorrow.  

-Cody


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## Coralhound

Nice job on the steady rest!  Do you mind sharing what you paid for the unit?  I am looking for one, it seems that most are 9" and I see very few heavy 10's to get a good idea on pricing.


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## woodtickgreg

Codered741 said:


> Somewhat of a side topic, I already know that I want a QC Toolpost, but im stuck on which size to buy.  AXA or 100 says its good up to 12", but BXA or 200 ranges from 10-15.  I'm somewhat leaning towards the BXA, to get as much rigidity and mass as possible.  Opinions and experience are welcome.
> -Cody



AXA is the correct size for a heavy 10, I too thought a BXA for the rigidity just like you, but other members advised against that due to allignment issues with the cutter being centered. I have since found a enco turret style tool post that is like new and was free plus I think it just looks cool, I think I am going to use it for awhile and use the money saved to buy some other tooling. I can always upgrade to the qc tool post at any time.


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## Codered741

Coralhound said:


> Nice job on the steady rest!  Do you mind sharing what you paid for the unit?  I am looking for one, it seems that most are 9" and I see very few heavy 10's to get a good idea on pricing.



Hi there, 

I found this lathe on CL, the guy wanted a grand for it, and I gave him an extra 100 for helping me load it.  Given the condition, I thought it was a fair price.  

Thanks for the advice on the QC toolpost, ordered one today!

As for progress, I didn't get to the QC gearbox like I was hoping, but I did get some more cleaning, stripping and painting done.  



Bull gear guards, and access door, as well as the gearbox cover all done.  

Also took apart the three jaw chuck, it was difficult to move, found about  pound of dirt and shavings.  Once cleaned and greased, moves like a dream!

And a question for Heavy 10 owners, how tight are the cap screws on the spindle bearings supposed to be?  I took one off to see the condition of the bearings, and when I re-assembled it, with the shims in the right places, and found I couldn't turn the spindle.  After some analyzing, to make sure I wasn't being dumb, I started to take the caps off again, which immediately freed the spindle.  After some playing, I find that the screws cannot be tight, as in make them hand tight with an allen key, and back it off 1/8 turn.  Does this mean that I am missing shims, or is this just a strangeness of an old machine?  There is no noticeable play in the spindle in this state, but it doesn't seem quite right.  

Until next week, 

-Cody


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## woodtickgreg

Codered741 said:


> And a question for Heavy 10 owners, how tight are the cap screws on the spindle bearings supposed to be?  I took one off to see the condition of the bearings, and when I re-assembled it, with the shims in the right places, and found I couldn't turn the spindle.  After some analyzing, to make sure I wasn't being dumb, I started to take the caps off again, which immediately freed the spindle.  After some playing, I find that the screws cannot be tight, as in make them hand tight with an allen key, and back it off 1/8 turn.  Does this mean that I am missing shims, or is this just a strangeness of an old machine?  There is no noticeable play in the spindle in this state, but it doesn't seem quite right.
> 
> Until next week,
> 
> -Cody


You are missing shims. A lift test with a dial indicator is needed to  properly set the clearance. The screws should be equally tight. If the  clearance isn't right the spindle can be starved of oil, and you know  what that means can happen.


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## Codered741

Hey Greg, 

I guess this means they were missing when I bought it, as I was VERY careful to keep them all together when I removed the caps.  

With that, do you know of a source for the shims?

And the lift test, I am imagining the following.  

Add shims until I am able to get movement up and down on the spindle.  
Setup the dial indicator set of the top of the spindle, and lift up by hand on the spindle.  
The difference in position is how much shim needs to come out?

I guess I am in need of some help here. 

Thanks in advance!

-Cody

- - - Updated - - -

A search answered my second question. 

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/710-heavy-10-spindle-bearings

-Cody


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## woodtickgreg

Codered741 said:


> Hey Greg,
> 
> I guess this means they were missing when I bought it, as I was VERY careful to keep them all together when I removed the caps.
> 
> With that, do you know of a source for the shims?
> 
> And the lift test, I am imagining the following.
> 
> Add shims until I am able to get movement up and down on the spindle.
> Setup the dial indicator set of the top of the spindle, and lift up by hand on the spindle.
> The difference in position is how much shim needs to come out?
> 
> I guess I am in need of some help here.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> -Cody
> 
> - - - Updated - - -
> 
> A search answered my second question.
> 
> http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/710-heavy-10-spindle-bearings
> 
> -Cody


Yup, and if you only need to make a few shims you can trace a pattern of a good one on some brass shim stock and just cut them out with a pair of sharp scissors. .001 or .0015 brass shim stock will cut easy. I can't remember but I think I showed the set up for doing the lift test in my rebuild thread. A solid steel bar is great for doing the lift test, I used about a 3 footer for leverage. Take your time on this step and get it right, it's very important for proper oiling of the spindle, good cuts, and long life of the spindle and bearings. I don't know of a source for shims, I even checked with grizzly/south bend, most people just have to make their own now. Each time shims are added or removed a lift test needs to be done, make sure the spindle and bearings has oil and spin the spindle by hand to make sure it is free and not binding anywhere in it's rotation. Also when you are satisfied with the set up run the lathe at different speeds for awhile and touch the bearing caps to make sure they are not getting hot, a little warm is ok but not hot.


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## Codered741

Hello again, 

Greg, thanks for the info on the shims.  It will be a while before I get to that stage, but its good to know beforehand.  

Started disassembly on the gear train last night, got everything apart without damage.  Though it looks like it was damaged before... (The photo doesn't read well, but the top right corner of the key is chipped!  Hate to think someone slammed it in with a hammer!)




The shaft that supports this gear, the reversing gear, was also brazed partway around, as well as one of the other shafts, with brazing all the way around. No breakage that I could see, simply looked like wear.  

I was a bit confused by some of the steps in the rebuild manual, regarding the wicks.  I eventually figured out that my lathe is old enough to not have some of the oil ways and feed tubes that the manual refers to.  Instead of wicks feeding other wicks, the oil needs to be applied to individual gears, or rather their shafts, through the small oil hole located in each shaft.  Cool, but had me confused for a bit.  

Anyone know where I can find the extended oil tube for the reversing gear assembly?  The cap was missing when I bought the lathe, and I'm having trouble finding a source for them.  If I can't find it, I'll just get a short one, and make a extension tube.  

Hopefully tonight I can get the geartrain cleaned and re-assembled tonight, and move on to dis-assembly of the QC Gearbox.  Which of course means removing the head-stock.  Fingers crossed, everything will go smoothly!

-Cody


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## woodtickgreg

I found the same thing with the wicks, my reverser was different as well and did not have all the plugs and wicks that the manual described. Most things where right on except the wicks. There are many variations of these lathes.


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## rw1

You will enjoy the labor when you are done.  Don't rush it.   May take 3 months, may take a year....but just be careful and do it right.   Your Lifetime of enjoyment awaits!   Degreasing, cleaning, and paint prep take a good portion of time.  The FUN begins when you paint and see all these old parts look like NEW again.  Enjoy the assembly process, We all learn how lathe works by taking it apart and fixing.   Lookin good!


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## Codered741

Boy was it a busy weekend!:whiteflag:

First, AXA QC Toolpost arrived.  Lacking a milling machine to make the T-Nut, I attached the 4-jaw chuck and dialed it in to the center post.


Mounted in its new home.  



I machined the T-nut freehand, well without power feed, because I disassembled the geartrain to restore it!  Finished that this weekend, been painting a little bit here and there through the week.  I couldn't find a new extended oil fill tube, so I made one on the mini-lathe, as shown in the following photo.  








I then continued on with the restoration, according to the rebuild manual, with the QC Gearbox and leadscrew.  In order to do this on my lathe, I first removed the headstock, after I found the bolts under about 70 years of crud!  After that, it was a simple matter of three screws, and out it came.  (Its about 5 pounds lighter now that i have removed all of the chips, oil and grease caked in there!)

Headstock removed for access to the QC gearbox screws.  



QC Gearbox removed and on the bench for cleaning, and BOY does it need it!



ITS A HEADLESS LATHE!!!!!



When I went to remove the headstock, I found this part clamped to the rear V-way, behind the headstock.  Looks like it was painted in there!  Thought at first it was a carriage stop, but it doesn't line up with the pad on the carriage.  Any one have a part like this, and if so what exactly is it?






I also got the gearbox disassembled and cleaned.  I was expecting trouble from the cone gears, can't say I had NO trouble, as one taper pin did not survive, but it was the clutch parts that gave me hell!  In the end, the felt that was in the gear with the tangential pin, gummed everything up when I tried to slide the shaft out past the pressed on gear.  But no harm done.  

Well that's it for now, I should have more progress in a couple of days.  

-Cody


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## woodtickgreg

That part in question is what the sliding gear banjo attaches too. A bolt goes through the long arked slot and into that clamp, it is so the clearance of the gears can be adjusted, and is an anchor point. A very important part.


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## Codered741

Right. Duh. 

Guess the cleaning solvent fumes got to me, now I remember taking the bolt off of there. Hmm. 

-Cody


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## Codered741

Hello All, 

Ok.  I am stumped on this one...

I am attempting to disassemble the headstock, and have run into a head scratcher...  the only way that I can see that this oil cup was even installed was to press it in with the bushing that looks like it is pressed into the casting?  There are no holes or markings in this bushing.  

As shown below, there is not enough clearance to spin the oil cup without damaging it.  Anyone have any experience with this?  Greg, I am sure that you have an idea!  Any help would be appreciated.  

I am not against buying a new oil cup, they aren't very expensive, but even if I just destroy this one getting it out, I cannot see how to re-install it without adding an extension.  







-Cody


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## woodtickgreg

You are correct in assuming that it was pressed in with the bushing at the factory, some of them where real close to the casting on the left side of the cup. It always seems to be on the front or right hand side. Your options are....destroy it as you already thought about, try and make a tool to pull the bushing with the cup still in place, and if that fails make a puller that will thread into the bushing to pull it. Some heat to the casting may help to break the grip on the bushing. Once you get it out and before you paint it thread a oil cup in and check for clearance, some of the casting can be ground away for clearance of the cup. Yours is really close by looking at the picture and may have to be just pressed back in. Take your time on this one and think about what you are doing so as to avoid any damage to the parts you have. It's not like we can just go down to the south bend store and get new parts,LOL. If you destroy the bushing let me know, I have an old bad casting that I might be able to get a bushing pulled from. GOOD LUCK and keep us posted on your progress with this dilema.
Greg


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## Codered741

Thanks Greg, 

That's what I thought.  I've set it aside for now, got the rest of the spindle apart, and started cleaning it.  When it comes time to strip and paint things, well maybe before that time, I'll look at getting that cup out...

Thanks again!


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## Kujo929

I just took my oil cups off this morning. Mine made contact with the headstock but were still able to be spun off. As the paint on mine is basically gone I wasn't worried too much about scraping it alittle.


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## Codered741

Hello All, 

I finally feel like I accomplished something on my project.  I have completed the restoration of the QC gearbox!  

But wait there's more!  I found a present in the mail today, the supposed original copy of "How to run a lathe".  It is unfortunately not the same year as the lathe, but it is an original printing of the book. The PO promised that he would mail it to me when he found it, and after a couple of weeks, I gave up hope.  Good to know there are still people that will keep their word these days!

I have also completely dis-assembled the headstock, and cleaned it.  Just need to strip, paint, and re-assemble.  

I also gave up trying to get the oil cup out of the headstock, attempted to heat and pull, more heat, etc.  I gave it the old college try, but I didn't want to break anything, so I quit while I was ahead.  That bushing is pressed in TIGHT!!  I ended up cutting the cup off.  I made a adapter to attempt to press the bushing out, but was unable to make it work.  I plan on making an extension tube to re-install the oil cup.  

PICS!!

Still needs the info plate restored.  



BEFORE:


AFTER:



The well loved South Bend Book



1966 is the last copyright.  



Have a great day everyone!

-Cody


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## stevecmo

Cody,

You are doing an excellent job on your 10L.  You are going to be so proud when it's complete.  Hang in there, it takes time and patience. 

I was interested to note that the shaft that the tumbler lever rides on is splined.  I've never been inside a SB gear box, but my Logan just has a plain shaft.

Nice work!

Steve


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## woodtickgreg

Awesome work, very nice job. well done. Funny I must be getting tired because when I first read the title of the book I read it as "how to ruin a lathe":rofl: LOL I don't need a book for that! I had a good little chuckle at myself. Now where the heck did I put my glasses? 
I purchased the new repops of the info plates off of ebay, they are pretty nice and really made a difference in how the lathe looks, took it from just repainted to restored. They are just flat plates and not the stamped raised type, but they are very nice. They where a little pricey, but they really where the finishing touch.


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## Codered741

stevecmo said:


> Cody,
> 
> You are doing an excellent job on your 10L.  You are going to be so proud when it's complete.  Hang in there, it takes time and patience.
> 
> I was interested to note that the shaft that the tumbler lever rides on is splined.  I've never been inside a SB gear box, but my Logan just has a plain shaft.
> 
> Nice work!
> 
> Steve



I found it interesting myself.  And that is the gear that transfers power from the spindle, through the gear train, through the gear mounted in the selector handle, into the gearbox, and eventually to the leadscrew.  

-Cody


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## Codered741

Got some more work done this weekend, dis-assembled the entire carriage, taper attachment, compound, and cross slide.  And found something quite disturbing...

The split nuts are almost completely worn away.  (I have pics that i'll post tonight.)

This lathe must have done a LOT of threading, and without proper lubrication, as there is only a sliver of threads remaining on the nuts.  The strangest thing is the lead screw shows very little wear, which I find very confusing...:thinking:

I am really at a loss as to how to proceed from here, a quick search of the bay returns nothing.  Anyone have a lead on new split nuts?

I guess that I could do a braze repair, then set them up and re-thread the nut via tap or single point.  (Though it will be hard to single point thread that on the mini-lathe...)

Any suggestions?  

-Cody


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## woodtickgreg

What I often do when I don't see what I need on ebay is look for a seller that has multiple parts listed, they are usually parting one out. Send them a message and ask if they are parting one out and ask if they have what you are looking for. sometimes on those half nuts you might have to buy a complete apron assy, but then you would have some spare parts or even be able to combine all the best parts and build your own apron. Thay can be had, you just have to be patient and look.......a lot.


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## Kujo929

I know itsme_bernie is parting one out right now. I just bought a bull gear from him. He has been having some problems with disassembly though so you would néed to ask him when he would get to that part.


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## itsme_Bernie

I am finally having some success getting your Bull gear off!  

...  And yes, I have thread nuts that are pretty good if I remember...  Let me look 

Bernie


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## Codered741

Well the apron is completely dis-assembled now, fairly easy.   That little snap ring in the clutch was a B****!!! Very little clearance  for the ring to expand, even less for the tool, and deep enough to  require a special tool!!  But its all apart, and clean now.  Just need  to strip the 4-5 layers of paint, and re-paint.  I'm getting a bunch of  parts ready for paint, maybe everything, and have a painting day.  I  have a couple of days off in August that I'm hoping to use to paint  everything! (Of course, in between coats I will be working on getting  the nursery ready for the little one, whom is due in October.  )

Here are the photos of the Apron as promised. 

Apron, fresh off the lathe.





Very, Very worn half nuts...



There was about an inch and a half of crud in the oil reservoir.  



Just a general layer of crud.



Carriage without an apron.



Underside of the carriage.



That's not really a part of it!!:LOL:
I thought that was cast!!



Thanks for looking!

-Cody


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## Kujo929

If you don't mind posting the tool you used, I'd appreciate it. I'm starting on that as soon as I get the headstock back together.


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## Codered741

Kujo929 said:


> If you don't mind posting the tool you used, I'd appreciate it. I'm starting on that as soon as I get the headstock back together.



For the Snap ring?  What tool DIDN'T I use!!!

But in all seriousness, the snap ring pliers that I have are not long enough to reach into the clutch and effectively grab the ring.  If you have a set, or go get one before you start, you will have less trouble than I did.  I ended up using a small flat blade screwdriver to push the ring out of the groove, then wedged a small pick under the end of the ring to get it above the groove.  I then worked my way around the shaft slowly working it out.  The ring does not have holes in the ends, like a newer style snap ring, just two square ends.  

I suppose that using flat nosed ring pliers would have been helpful, but I doubt it would have just come right out.  

Good luck when you get to yours!

-Cody


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## woodtickgreg

That is a seriously grungy apron, not much room for oil was there, good thing you tore it down. Mine was clean compared to that one, you will be so happy that you have gone through it. great pics. I have been enjoying following along with your work.


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## Coralhound

I am also enjoying your updates! I finally got inspired to clean up the shop some more and post some excess equipment on CL to make some much needed room in my shop! 

Does your headstock take 5C collets? 

Keep the updates coming! 

Chris


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## Codered741

Coralhound said:


> I am also enjoying your updates! I finally got inspired to clean up the shop some more and post some excess equipment on CL to make some much needed room in my shop!
> 
> Does your headstock take 5C collets?
> 
> Keep the updates coming!
> 
> Chris



The headstock will not take 5C collets without an adapter.  But WITH the adapter and collet closer, which is going to be the first project that I make when the rebuild is finished, it certainly will.  From what I have read, the headstock has a proprietary taper, and I will have to either make or obtain the adapter for 5C collets, and the morse taper adapter for the center.  I am slowly getting all the parts and dimensions that I will need to make one, and I will post the drawing once it is complete.  (which will not be for a while....)

As a side note, it looks as though I will be moving from Vegas to Pennsylvania for work in the coming months (by the first of the year, but commuting until then).  This means that the rest of the rebuild will have to happen fairly quickly, as I do NOT want to move the lathe in pieces...anic:  So stay tuned for more!  

-Cody


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## Splat

Damn fine job, Cody! Your lathe looks about as dirty as mine was. I couldn't believe all the swarf in the QCGB on my H10. Looks like you're doing all right. I know you're moving but I would still try not to rush a rebuild. All it takes is a little too much "oomph!" and you can break a part/piece and then be in a real hole. Good luck with it and keep us informed how it's going.


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## Codered741

Thanks Splat! 

I am definitely not going to rush anything, but I am going to get as much done as I can, as quickly as I can.  I fly to Pennsylvannia on the 26th, and stay there for three weeks, back for a week, PA for three weeks, and back for a month or so, have a baby, then begin the move. 

Its gonna be a very busy end to the year. 

My plan for the rebuild right now, is to get as much done as I can, leaving enough time to put it back together, in whatever state it is in, so it can be moved in one piece. I just have this fear that if I were to try to move it disassembled, I will lose or break pieces in the move.  I'm hoping that I can get the headstock, apron, carriage, and QCGB completed before moving.  But we'll see what happens. 

Ill keep u posted. 

-Cody


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## Splat

So after a loooong time working on the house and not having the time (or desire at the end of the day) to get my lathe refurb done I've finally got the time. I started getting the headstock cleaned up, painted, and ready for reassembly. I never completed the spindle so doing that now. The small gear at the left-end of the spindle is giving me problems. I know it's pressed on (correct?) but she ain't budging. I've got a 2-arm puller I'm using but can't find anything that'll fit on top of the inner pipe inside that sleeve the gear is on. I'm thinking a 33mm socket but it'd be too tall (height wise) to get the puller arms down under the gear. Any suggestions?


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## woodtickgreg

I used a brass punch and just tap tap roll 180, tap tap roll 180, etc. etc. I just kinda walked it off. Reinstalled it the same way. It is a press fit but not very tight, there is also a key in the shaft, be careful not to loose it. By the time I would have figured out how to get a puller set up I could have tapped the thing off. LOL If the take up nut on yours is between the casting and the gear you can use it to get the gear started pushing it off until you get a little clearance to tap the gear off with a brass punch. Glad to see you workin on her again!
Greg


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## Codered741

My take up nut was between the casting and the gear, so I did as Greg suggested. It seemed to work well, I think I also put a bit of heat on it with a propane torch. Also, the outboard end of my spindle had some paint on it, which I had to remove before the gear would come off. 

Ill have an update of my own progress later today. I have made quite a bit, an there won't be any more for a while. I leave for PA tomorrow. 

-Cody


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## Codered741

Well i said it was going to be a while before i could post photos of more progress, just didn't think it would be this long. 

Getting ready to move across the country, have a baby, sell a house, buy a house, and start a new job!  Been a little busy...


Haven't made any progress over the last couple of months, being on the opposite side of the country from my shop, but I realized i had not posted the photos of the progress that I had made before i left!  

So without further a-do.  
















I'll be back in Vegas in about a week, though i wont have time to do much, ill be having a baby and packing!

-Cody


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## Codered741

Just a very small update.  


I am still here...


And the lathe is in its new home!  Not completely out of the crate yet, but its in its new home!  Been a busy 6 months, moving across the country, starting a new job, and having a baby!  But all is well!

You should hopefully be seeing actual progress soon-ish.  

-Cody


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## itsme_Bernie

Man, all at once??  Baby, move, relocation, new job??  I know you already said it before, but whenever you mention all this I remember myself 10 years ago..  Crazy crazy couple of years.  You sound happy about it, and I wish you the best! 



Bernie


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## Coralhound

How are things Cody?


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## Kroll

That is my favorite model,and it looks fantastic.I will be following this for sure,looking good Cody


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## Codered741

Well.  it has been a long time since i have had time to hit the forums!  All this time, moving across the country and settling in to my new life as a dad!  Exciting, frustrating, sleepless, amazing life, being a father!  And the Lathe is FINALLY out of the crate! well, sort of.  At least i opened the crate! And amazingly, everything was exactly as i left it!

I am in a smaller space in the new house, so it will take me some time to finish unpacking and such, but i just want to let everyone know that i am alive!

Later, 

-Cody


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## Kroll

Welcome back,excited as well and congrats on the new addition to the family and new home----kroll


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## ddushane

Looking Good Sir! Keep up the good work!

Dwayne


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## ttpociask

I've been very interested in your rebuild since I have just recently bought a heavy 10 199z with a 3.5' bed. I am interested in how you removed the old paint and what kind you used to repaint, nice job by the way especially considering your situation.


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## Codered741

ttpociask said:


> I've been very interested in your rebuild since I have just recently bought a heavy 10 199z with a 3.5' bed. I am interested in how you removed the old paint and what kind you used to repaint, nice job by the way especially considering your situation.



My technique is nothing special, just a heaping helping of elbow grease. I used paint stripper, the good stuff that smells real bad, and burns if you get it on your skin. Of course I soaked most of the parts in simple green for a day or so before the crud would come off.

After they were clean and stripped, I wiped everything down with denatured alcohol, taped off machine surfaces, applied rust-oleum clean metal primer, set 24 hrs, then 2-3 coats of gloss smoke gray, in a rattle can for most of the small stuff. I'll use a spray gun for the larger pieces, and I toyed with the idea of having the really big pieces sandblasted, but the stripper works well, and is cheap, and on my schedule.

-Cody


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## Retired1997

Nice job you're doing.  Did you ever make the shims for your spindle?  I needed some for my heavy 9, so I bought brass shim stock, traced around an original shim, and then cut the shims out using scissors.  I used a hole punch to cut the hole in the shim for the bolt.  My bearing cap bolts are now tight and I have the proper clearance for the spindle.


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## ttpociask

Codered741 said:


> My technique is nothing special, just a heaping helping of elbow grease. I used paint stripper, the good stuff that smells real bad, and burns if you get it on your skin. Of course I soaked most of the parts in simple green for a day or so before the crud would come off.
> 
> After they were clean and stripped, I wiped everything down with denatured alcohol, taped off machine surfaces, applied rust-oleum clean metal primer, set 24 hrs, then 2-3 coats of gloss smoke gray, in a rattle can for most of the small stuff. I'll use a spray gun for the larger pieces, and I toyed with the idea of having the really big pieces sandblasted, but the stripper works well, and is cheap, and on my schedule.
> 
> -Cody


You just used stripper then, did you have to use any filler for the pitting in the castings or didn't the pits show after stripping? It sounds like you sprayed all your paint and didnt brush any.


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## Splat

Cody, how's the lathe coming? I'm getting back around to finishing up my H10 restore and set-up after so many starts/stops. I know how it goes with finding the time to get all the things you -want- to do done.


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## ttpociask

My heavy 10 is real close to yours, it's a 199-z with the serial 118804 dww, jfp also on the ways like yours. looks like it was made in late 1941 from what I could gather, Keep up the good work, I wish I would be that far along on my cleaning and painting.


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## Codered741

Hey guys, 

To answer some of the questions:

I did make the shims, i had some 0.010 brass shim stock, and pulled out some of the original laminated shims.  

I just used stripper so far, the castings so far are pretty clean, and i havent used any filler.  Though, i haven't done any of the larger parts yet, and i am thinking about having some of them sandblasted, which may bring out some imperfections that require filler.  But unless they are really deep, i probably wont fill them, I don't mind the look of castings.  Everything so far has been rattle canned, and i am planning on spraying the rest of the parts, once they are clean.  

I haven't re-started my process yet, hopefully now that it is warm, I will get started again.  

Stay tuned.  

-Cody


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## itsme_Bernie

Splat said:


> Cody, how's the lathe coming? I'm getting back around to finishing up my H10 restore and set-up after so many starts/stops. I know how it goes with finding the time to get all the things you -want- to do done.



WHOH Splat!  

It's been a while...  Glad to here you are still chipping away there!

Keep your eyes peeled for the NJ Machinists thread- we're going to attempt a get together next month sometime 


Bernie


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## Splat

itsme_Bernie said:


> WHOH Splat!   It's been a while...  Glad to here you are still chipping away there!  Keep your eyes peeled for the NJ Machinists thread- we're going to attempt a get together next month sometime



Bernie! Yes, I've had a lot on the proverbial table going on and finally now getting back to tuning up the lathe and hopefully get'er running. Cool, I'll keep an eye out for that thread. A gettogether'd be cool.


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## Codered741

Well its been a LOOOOONG time since I have posted, almost a year now!  Been really busy, but I'm finally settled in the new place.  There has been a little bit of progress with the lathe, as in I FINALLY took it out of the crate!!

Real progress will happen eventually, but for now these photos will have to suffice.  

Crate taken apart, sitting on the base.  



Lathe in its new home!



Ill try to stop in often, but time is scarce now a days.  

-Cody


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