# Craftsmen 101 tailstock ram lock



## Fishbone1 (Jun 29, 2014)

I just added a Craftsmen 101.07301 to my tool list. It was not assembled when I got it. The motor was not fastened to the bench, and no belts, the countershaft was not attached to the bench. Everything seems to be complete but will have to be assembled. I am starting with the tail stock and found the ram had a burr on the guide slot underneath and was very tight when moving. I have polished that out and it is like butter now. The ram lock tightens and holds, but will not release when you unscrew it. I am soaking in oil, WD, and Liquid Wrench hoping to break it free. I have searched for information about removing the m6-44 and m6-45 (sleeve and lock) and what I have found has conflicting information. One post says to take one out the top and drive the other out the bottom and the other post says they come out the top. The bolt does not come out of the tailstock because it looks like it is a bit long, so I don't think going out the bottom is an option. I don't want to mess anything up so I'm hoping someone can tell me for sure how to fix the locking mechanism on the tailstock.
Gary


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## kd4gij (Jun 29, 2014)

If it is stuck with the ram in, unscrew it all the way and push the bolt down aall the way. If it doesn't come all the way out that is ok then try tapping the ram with a soft mallet or block of wood. When you get it freed up remove it. then you can get the parts out. The problem is the aangled flats are worn. clausing has new ones cheaper than most ebay sellers. Then serch fot the spring mod for the clamp. I reground mine and thay have been ok. the neew ones from clausing will be made of steel and won't have the problem that the zmax has. this is the updated parts.http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-ATLAS-C...276?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4622524f24


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## Fishbone1 (Jul 1, 2014)

Thanks for the PIC and the info. My ram is not stuck but when the lock is first loosened the ram is very tight. When I run the ram out and back in it loosens up and breaks free. Easy to turn  after that. Just curious when you remove the old lock and sleeve are they seized and tough to get out and do they both come out the top? I'm sorry for dragging out what appears to be such a simple problem. Thanks for the help and looking forward to getting the motor and countershaft mounted next and making chips.
Gary


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## wa5cab (Jul 1, 2014)

Gary,

I assume that "Easy to turn" refers to the handwheel??  The ram is keyed and shouldn't turn.

If you run the ram all the way out and pull it out of the tailstock, the lock assembly "should" pull straight out the top.  

Robert D.


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## Fishbone1 (Jul 3, 2014)

Thanks Robert,
That is correct the crank turned hard. At first it was because the set screw used as the key had scored the ram and it turned out hard. I fixed that and then encountered the lock issue after I put it back together. I will look at it this weekend and move to the compound if I get it fixed
Gary


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## wa5cab (Jul 5, 2014)

Gary,

If you pull the ram out of the tailstock, you "should" be able to pull the entire lock subassembly out the top of the tailstock.  

Common causes for the lock refusing to unlock are wear on the lock bevels, corrosion on the lock cylinder OD's, corrosion in the hole that they fit into, and lack of lubrication in the hole.

Robert D.


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## NightWing (Jul 5, 2014)

BTW, that split lock with the beveled edges is called a binder plug.


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## wa5cab (Jul 5, 2014)

And in different Atlas parts lists over 45 odd years, they are variously called "lock sleeve", "lock" and "sleeve".

Robert D.


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## NightWing (Jul 5, 2014)

The machine tool builder I worked for for 18 years used those devises to help hold large cam drums and index arm housings onto drumshafts.  The shafts were around 6 inches in diameter.  The binder plugs had a radius to match the shaft and were often bored in place to have an exact match to the shaft.

The lower half had a tapped through hole and the upper half had a counterbored clearance hole for a SHCS.  Easy to loosen if necessary.  Unscrew the bolt a couple of turns then smack the bolt head with a hammer.  

The application on a small tailstock ram works fine with a bevel.


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## Csxal (Jan 2, 2020)

Hello all, I just purchased a 12x24 Atlas Lathe 101.27430. I have run into the problem the original poster of this thread had.  The lock and sleeves are stuck inside the tailstock. The square bolt drops out the bottom of the hole when I loosen the knob all the way on the top, but the two wedge halves are stuck inside. I have removed the quil, shaft and hand wheel from tailstock. I can see the wedges inside the bore of the tailstock. Any suggestions on how to get these out? I know if I can get the top one out, I could use a dowel or something to drive the bottom one out the bottom. Thanks for any advice. Al


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## Superburban (Jan 2, 2020)

On 2 of my 618's the inserts/ sleeves/ locks, what ever yoiu want to call them, were corroded in place, and needed a punch (From the bottom IIRC), to get them out. Then I just made new ones from aluminum rod.


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## Csxal (Jan 2, 2020)

Superburban said:


> On 2 of my 618's the inserts/ sleeves/ locks, what ever you want to call them, were corroded in place, and needed a punch (From the bottom IIRC), to get them out. Then I just made new ones from aluminum rod.


Superburban, thanks for your reply. What did you use to punch out from the bottom, since the hole is inside the cavity of the tailstock? There isn’t a straight shot to punch up into the hole.


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## Superburban (Jan 2, 2020)

I'm thinking I just used a punch, but maybe I pulled the bolt out the top. Its been over 15 years, I know what came out was useless, except for measuring. I'm thinking I reused the original bolts. If there is no hole from the bottom, Maybe, try a socket and a nut, like a puller.  Sorry I do not remember better. I do know it was destroyed, and the bore needed cleaning the residue.


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## Csxal (Jan 3, 2020)

Superburban said:


> I'm thinking I just used a punch, but maybe I pulled the bolt out the top. Its been over 15 years, I know what came out was useless, except for measuring. I'm thinking I reused the original bolts. If there is no hole from the bottom, Maybe, try a socket and a nut, like a puller.  Sorry I do not remember better. I do know it was destroyed, and the bore needed cleaning the residue.


Thanks again. I found a new lock and sleeve on ebay and ordered it. Iwas trying a punch but I knew it would destroy the one that's in there now.


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