# VFD  for 10L South Bend



## Capt. Jas. (Jun 22, 2019)

I have read multiple posts on the advantages of using a VFD to run a 3ph motor off of 110. What I dont understand is does that allow the use of current on off and reverse buttons on the machine or does the operation under VFD take place on that unit?

1.  Will I be able to use the on/off/reverse control switch I have pictured?
2. What is a recommended VFD unit for the 1 HP motor in have pictured?

Thanks in advance for assistance.


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## markba633csi (Jun 22, 2019)

The wiring needs to be rearranged- no switches between the VFD and motor, and the pushbutton box would connect to the VFD to control it
Mark


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## Cadillac (Jun 22, 2019)

U want at least a 1hp vfd can always oversize for future uses. Then check amperage on motor and make sure the vfd has a higher rating. 
The vfd has two sections of wires going to it. You have the 110 to 3 phase side let’s call that the power side. Then their is the control side. That’s where you would wire the on/off switches for/rev.  You should be able to use your existing switches.


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## 4ssss (Jun 22, 2019)

markba633csi said:


> The wiring needs to be rearranged- no switches between the VFD and motor, and the pushbutton box would connect to the VFD to control it
> Mark



That is how mine is wired with the same switch as yours on my heavy 10. The VFD then has to be programmed.


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## matthewsx (Jun 22, 2019)

I have a Teco 2hp unit that's pretty nice.


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## CluelessNewB (Jun 22, 2019)

Since you want to run the motor off *110V* you are limited to a *1hp *drive but that should be fine.  If you had 220V available for input you would have more options. 

It looks like the motor draws *3.8 *amps so you need a VFD that will supply at least that much, more is fine. 

You want a drive that is "*sensorless vector*".  You should be able to use your existing switch with any VFD but as others have said it will be wired to the low voltage control inputs of the VFD not between the VFD and the motor. 

I believe either one of the two listed below will work.  The *Hitachi is rated at 5 amps*, the *Teco 4.3 amps*.   The Hitachi is typically a bit more expensive but is generally considered better.  (I currently have 5 VFD's, 4 are Teco, all different models and one is a Huanyang which I would not recommend.)  I would also recommend avoiding the Teco FM50 since they are not "sensorless vector".    There are probably cheaper options on eBay. 


*Hitachi WJ200-007MF* https://www.wolfautomation.com/ac-drive-1hp-120-v-single-phase/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI69uWoO394gIVw1YNCh28XgYFEAQYASABEgKBBPD_BwE 

*Teco L510-101-H1-U* https://www.factorymation.com/L510-101-H1-U

Please double check specs before ordering, you may want to shop around a bit, it may be less expensive elsewhere.  

_Don't forget my advice is worth every penny you paid for it! _


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## martik777 (Jun 22, 2019)

Here is mine wired to a drum switch and an external pot (20k) to control the frequency (speed).

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/my-new-vfd.78341/#post-666179 


This 1.5HP VFD has been working well for me: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2HP-1-5KW-...791453&hash=item286df9fab9:g:HgYAAOSwcWpbg5rP


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## Capt. Jas. (Jun 23, 2019)

Thank you all for your assistance!


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## Capt. Jas. (Aug 30, 2019)

This is what I have on the back of my lathe. 
I dont know how and if this affects the wiring for the existing switches. I am also open to running a 220 line instead of going thru 110 if that will be a better alternative.


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## Cadillac (Aug 30, 2019)

220 would be a better power option. Most of the stuff in the box you show would be removed. You only need a on/off switch , for/rev switch and I install a emergency off mushroom button also. You’ll need a fuse and block for vfd power supply along with some shielded wire like 18-20ga for your switches. That’s about it unless you want a elaborate system.


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