# Compressed air distribution in your shop?



## Janderso (Jan 20, 2020)

It's time to lay out some air lines.
This sure looks like the way to go.

This is the kit from McMaster for $129.
Anyone use this kit?


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## gwade (Jan 20, 2020)

I have not.  I used the ¾" RapidAir kit and have been very happy with it.  https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200484023_200484023


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## Janderso (Jan 20, 2020)

I think the only difference between the kits is the McMaster is 1/2" vs. 3/4"
Any advantage to the 3/4" ?
The 1/2" is rated at 150 psi.


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## Tim9 (Jan 20, 2020)

Looks like Rapid Air. Lots of people use them and like them. I worked at an auto repair shop which just used schedule 40 pvc. Personally I would prefer schedule 80 since it’s much stronger. Schedule 40 would occasionally blow at odd places anytime.
  I was amazed how well the schedule 40 actually worked. Had a 2-stage compressor set at 155 psi. 4 full time mechanics.


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## Janderso (Jan 20, 2020)

Schedule 40? In a work environment?
Somebody is cutting corners.
That does sound dangerous.
The 1" is 200 psi so the 3/4" is probably 170 or so.
Thanks for the information Tim.


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## JimDawson (Jan 20, 2020)

You can get the same thing at Automation Direct for about 1/5 the cost/item, and free 2 day shipping on orders over $49. https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/pneumatic_components

I have been using these products for years and have about 1/2 my shop plumbed with these products.


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## kb58 (Jan 20, 2020)

I thought that copper was the right stuff.


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## Tim9 (Jan 20, 2020)

Copper is the right stuff. Go to almost any older auto dealership and it’s copper. But copper is pretty expensive...especially the thicker stuff which is what you want. Believe it or not...3/4” PVC  40 has a working pressure of 200 at 140 degrees. Home Depot site shows the specs.
    But...it used to pop every now and then. The upside of pvc is it doesn’t form condensation. And it’s dirt cheap and easy as hell to install.

also...most pvc breaks down if exposed to sunlight. Recommended to paint it if outside.


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## FanMan (Jan 20, 2020)

Can't go wrong with copper, but it's expensive.  When I plumbed my shop for air I used polyethylene tubing (rated 190 psi in the 1/2" OD size) and nylon compression tees and elbows (rated 200 psi).  It was the cheapest stuff McMaster  had that was rated for the pressure (I run my compressor at 120psi).  At the ends I clamped a 6" galvanized pipe nipple to the shop rafters with a quick disconnect coupling on the bottom and the compression fitting for the tubing on the top.

PVC pipe is a bad idea for an air system... while it's rated for the pressure, it's brittle  so it fatigues if the pressure fluctuates a lot, i.e. if you don't leave the system pressurized so it goes to zero often.


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## Norseman C.B. (Jan 20, 2020)

Janderso said:


> I think the only difference between the kits is the McMaster is 1/2" vs. 3/4"
> Any advantage to the 3/4" ?
> The 1/2" is rated at 150 psi.



The advantage is more volume of flow, some tools use more cfm than others
so the efficiency of 3/4" is greater on high consumption tools ..............


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## middle.road (Jan 20, 2020)

(3) 25' hunks of air hose and one spooled up 25' hunk.
Pretty clumsy and not tidy at all.


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## Janderso (Jan 20, 2020)

JimDawson said:


> You can get the same thing at Automation Direct for about 1/5 the cost/item, and free 2 day shipping on orders over $49. https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/pneumatic_components
> 
> I have been using these products for years and have about 1/2 my shop plumbed with these products.


This is a good way to save some money.
I guess I can go through the options and pick out manifolds, unions, tees and hose.
A kit would be a good way to start but I'm making a simple set-up for a 20 x 20 shop.
Thanks


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## mksj (Jan 20, 2020)

I also use the 3/4" MaxLine Kit with a 2 stage 5Hp compressor, previously used copper pipe but expensive and awkward to install. PVC ages and shatters, from a safety point of view I would not consider it. The MaxLine is Aluminum with a HDPE cover on both sides, so no issues with corrosion. It also has a higher working pressure than a plastic line system. The other system that I would recommend is FastPipe which is straight pipes sections, seems like they are all made by RapidAir. When I moved I was able to take the MaxLine system down and reuse most of it in my new garage, may need to replace some of the O-Rings. Pipe can be bent or useing 90 degree elbows. I uses a 300 PSI Goodyear flex hose from my compressor to the air filters, I use dual Norgren air filters and do not seem to get any moisture or drainage in my air lines. Compressor has an after cooler which drops out most of the water into the tank and then an automatic dump valve at the drain. If you are doing a high pressure air system, I wouldn't compromise on safety.





						Comparison Chart - Fastpipe, Maxline, Duratec, and RapidAir
					

RapidAir Products Comparison Chart - Get and compare all information about Fastpipe, Maxline, Duratec, and RapidAir products.




					www.rapidairproducts.com


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## RobertB (Jan 20, 2020)

FanMan said:


> PVC pipe is a bad idea for an air system... while it's rated for the pressure, it's brittle  so it fatigues if the pressure fluctuates a lot, i.e. if you don't leave the system pressurized so it goes to zero often.


PVC pipe's pressure rating also drops dramatically when it gets warm and the air coming out of a compressor can get quite warm.

Chicago Pneumatic on PVC


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## Janderso (Jan 20, 2020)

That article is proof positive to avoid PVC, imho.


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## westerner (Jan 20, 2020)

I sure hope my bringing this up does not back fire on me, but here goes-

I built my 24'x28' shop in 1988. The 80 gallon, 5 hp compressor sits outside, under the eaves on the east side of the shop. Pressure is set at 130 psi, ish. A 3' section of 1/2 inch 'all-purpose' hose runs from the tank to the separator/filter on the wall outside the shop. Another 4' piece of hose runs from the filter to the 1/2 PVC stubbed out thru the wall of the shop. 1/2 PVC runs up the inside of the 2x4 wall into the attic, and tees to 4 drops in the shop, run inside the walls. The walls are insulated, with 5/8 plywood siding outside, and 5/8 sheetrock inside. 2 drops on the south wall over the bench, and one each on the east and west walls. The attic is insulated as well. 

The drops turn and stub out of the walls at about 4' off the floor.  I had to build small brackets to secure the stubs as they exited the wall after my Brother-in-Law (Baby Huey) ripped one off in his haste to finish the tire rotation on his truck. I work in this shop from 10 to 40 hours per week, and the compressor does too. I have a ball valve on the tank, which gets turned off at the end of each day. PVC plumbing therefore, sees the cycle from 0 to 130 PSI each day the shop is busy. 

Other than my BIL, I have had ZERO trouble with the PVC, which is Schedule 40 throughout.


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## Shootymacshootface (Jan 20, 2020)

I plummed a buddies shop years ago with 1/2 copper with sweat joints, never a single problem. My garage/ shop, and gun room are with 3/8 rubber hoses right off of the compressor for impact guns and such, and 3/8 plastic air brake line going to my machining area and gun room. Unregulated 3/8 air brake line turned out to have perfect flow for die grinders and cutoff wheels, as well as tool changers and blow guns.


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## Tim9 (Jan 20, 2020)

Like I said... first time I went to work in that shop I was dumbfounded. I thought pvc would’ve failed immediately. But after working there a few years I realized it really wasn’t that bad. Especially if you don’t own the building.
But... it did pop in small areas occasionally during summer months. Maybe once or twice in a 12 month period. Like I said.... if it was me I’d use schedule 80. Maximum pressure scheduled 80 1/2” pvc has max pressure rating of *850 psi. !!!  Very big difference than schedule 40 @ 200psi
   Pvc is so damned easy to run.And... I doubt it would fail in my lifetime. *


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## ttabbal (Jan 20, 2020)

One downside to PVC. It will get brittle and fail. We are always telling people not to use it for rocket motors because when it goes it tends to make small sharp pieces that go into people nicely. And are not visible on xrays etc..


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## Ik4771 (Jan 21, 2020)

I also have the 3/4 rapid air kit and am very satisfied with it, 2 years sense install and 0 leaks.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk


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## FOMOGO (Jan 21, 2020)

I've always run my air lines in black pipe, with a piece of hyd hose to isolate the compressor from the system. The new shop is going to be a combination of black pipe and copper, because that's what I have around.   1 1/4" black for the main runs and polished and clear coated 3/4 and 1/2" copper for the trunk lines, and drops. Pulled several hundred feet of L copper out of a building I was converting from commercial to residential over most of last summer and fall. Seemed a waste not to put it back to work, and hey, it will be shiny! When finished, I will have the combined output of three 80 gal., 5hp, two stage compressors available for heavy duty sand blasting of car frames and such, but 90 percent of the time will just be running one. I think the Rapid air systems are a good, and easy way to go, but I guess I just like the retro look. Here on the island I ran around 100' of 1/2" K-copper for my air, which was nice because you could bend it to go where ever you wanted, which really cuts down on the number of fittings you have to sweat. I think one of the best things you can do when designing your air system is to place your compressor outside of your workspace so you don't have to listen to it. If it has to be inside, a large inlet filter/silencer can help cut the noise substantially. Mike


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## Stonebriar (Jan 21, 2020)

I am going to be using FastPipe in my shop.  Not cheap but I like it. I have all of the pipe, but I am having rotator cuff surgery tomorrow so I am out of commission for about 2 months.


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## fixit (Jan 21, 2020)

I put PVC in my shop when I built it. Within a year, the fittings started to break. I riped it out & replaced it with copper & have had NO problems in 18 years of use. I was also contracted to repair the air system at a local manufacturing facility. Their PVC air system was constantly breaking, again at the fittings. I put in 1 1/4 inch copper ( just me & could not manage black iron by my self) that solved their air delivery problems. The next move was to install a properly sized compressor & dryer.


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## Mini Cooper S (Jan 21, 2020)

DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT EVER USE PVC FOR AIR LINES! Very dangerous. I used to work at a startup company that the owner plumbed with PVC air lines. We were always fixing broken lines, owner thought it was funny when a pipe let go with a shotgun blast. We were constantly asking for new air lines but were told the company couldn't afford the cost of shut down and replacement. One day a guy was working at his desk in an upstairs office when he dropped his pencil and bent over to pick it up. Just then a shutoff valve blow off of an air line right outside his window, through his window and embedded it self in the wall across the room! If he hadn't dropped his pencil, it would have hit him in the head probably killing him.

I, along with the other managers (one of which was the guy that almost got killed), immediately shut down the  entire plant. We then went into the owners office and refused to run the place until all PVC was removed and replaced with proper iron pipe. The owner no longer thought it was funny and we got our new air lines!

PVC of any schedule doesn't age well in a shop environment, oil fumes and vibration make it get brittle and BANG.

I will get off of my soap box now, that was just a very scary day in my 50 years of working in shops.

PS: I did work in a small shop with PVC air lines  after that, when I told the owner the story, he changed out the PVC for copper.

Richard


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## derf (Jan 21, 2020)

I went to Pex pipe and shark bite fittings 10 yrs ago....no problems since.


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## Tim9 (Jan 21, 2020)

I just want to clarify, I have not and do not advocate Schedule 40 PVC. I don’t think it’s worth using because it does tend to snap too easily and does definitely degrade when exposed to UV rays. Schedule 40 has a working pressure of 200 psi.

But, the Grey Scheduled 80 PVC is a totally different animal because it is not as susceptible to UV rays, has a 800 psi rating, and is much more durable.

Copper type K is by far the best. But pretty expensive and although not super hard to install.... definitely more time consuming than Rapid air or pvc. 
PVC IS super easy. 
  If I was in a rental, knowing what I know today.... I’d use Schedule 80 electric grade conduit PVC.
  Might still use 80 if I built a big shop. But, now I’m in a small workshop. I’m using a small Makita 5200 compressor with an air hose. 130 psi is all I need.


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## MikeInOr (Jan 21, 2020)

Janderso said:


> Schedule 40? In a work environment?
> Somebody is cutting corners.
> That does sound dangerous.
> The 1" is 200 psi so the 3/4" is probably 170 or so.
> Thanks for the information Tim.



I think that the bigger the pipe the lower the pressure rating for a particular wall thickness.  So a 3/4" pipe would usually have a higher pressure rating than a 1" pipe.  (Bigger pipe has more surface area so the cumulative force exerted on the walls of the pipe is higher the larger the pipe is)

I believe the reason to go with the 3/4" kit instead of the 1/2" kit is sustained airflow... i.e. high volume compressed air consumers like a blast cabinet or many people using the same airline.  I would guess that 1/2" should be plenty large enough for a 1 man shop.


I just picked up a used 80g 2 stage compressor for my shop so plumbing my shop for air has risen on my todo list.  I am thinking of going with 1/2" copper.  With my shop layout and the air compressor positioned centrally the max run length will be pretty short and 1/2" should give me more air capability than I should ever need.

I believe the RapidAir line is made out of Nylon.  I am pretty sure that in a failure situation nylon will rip instead of blow out shrapnel like PVC.  Once I started pricing out all the extra fittings for a rapid air system copper seemed much more reasonably priced for my application.


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## Tim9 (Jan 21, 2020)

Yes, bigger pipe will have a lower rating. And if you’re running a body shop which use high volume air tools, or machines like tire mounting machines which use large volumes of air to inflate and seat the bead....definitely 3/4” pipe is better.
   For most machinist and general repair shops, we’re just blowing crap and regulating the pressure down to 100 psi or less anyway. So 1/2” is sufficient. Most of our hoses are 3/8” , so 3/4” piping just isn’t really helping you much. It’s all relative.

    Back in my youthful days.....everything had to be the “best”
Personally, looking back.....it was a waste of time and overkill. But hey, whatever floats ones boat. I still take pride in my Snap On tool box loaded with Snap on tools. But my god.....they were a damned rip off price wise. Williams wrenches were almost every bit as good....just not as pretty.

  Mike, if you own the building... Go with Type K copper. I think that’s the thickest. DON’T use M
Type M is just too thin and is prone to pin holes over time. The only big downside to copper is condensation. Not a big deal out west but in humid areas like New Orleans it’s a big issue. We are constantly fighting water in air lines. Down here we’re constantly draining compressors and need air dryers at EVERY outlet....especially if using a metal air line system. That’s where plastics shine. That’s the only reason I was touting #80 PVC. Cheap and easy to install and no sweating. Dryer air.
And just to be clear....everything I’ve read about Rapid Air has been very positive. Easy to install and works good. And no sweating. But it’s probably proprietary system so every accessory has to be found from a rapid air supplier.  But it’s a good system.


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## RobertB (Jan 21, 2020)

Warning people of the dangers of using PVC for air lines reminds me of trying to get my father to quit smoking. 

"There's nothing wrong with it, I'm 65 years old and have been smoking 2 packs a day for 50 years and I'm healthy as a horse"

I could not argue this point with him, he was right, never had a health problem in his life.

But then died of lung cancer at 66.


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## pontiac428 (Jan 21, 2020)

I learned all about how sharp bits of PVC slice and dice when I was young and thought anything close to 3' long was a sword.  Leave that pipe for your sprinkler system.

I'm starting to plan the air system for my new building.  My dad started using PEX pretty early, and has done some nice air systems with it as he's moved around.  I wasn't sure it would be best price-wise, but it turns out I won't need to build a very extensive system, just a few drops around the shop.  I'm definitely leaning toward PEX for this job, I'll let y'all know how it goes.


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## Cadillac (Jan 21, 2020)

I used 1/2 dot truck air brake line because I had a spool of it and a whole bunch of swivel type push lock fittings. Is basically the same system the OP shows but not in a kit. Was super easy to run and add on as you want. It's been installed for about 10yrs and have not had a problem nor a leak the system doesn't bleed down either good stuff in my opinion.


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## FanMan (Jan 21, 2020)

Pex would be a good choice, and you can get everything locally.  But the tubing and plastic fittings I got from McMaster were even cheaper.  I was out fixing my compressor a few minutes ago (turned out to be a broken wire going to the capacitor), so I snapped this picture of my distribution points:


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## matthewsx (Jan 21, 2020)

derf said:


> I went to Pex pipe and shark bite fittings 10 yrs ago....no problems since.


I was wondering about that. Seems like it would have the ease of pvc without the hazards. Worked great for my bathroom and RV remodels.

john


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## Janderso (Jan 21, 2020)

Shark bite!!
I just used them for the first time.
Amazing!


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## matthewsx (Jan 21, 2020)

Janderso said:


> Shark bite!!
> I just used them for the first time.
> Amazing!



Shark bite fittings are very cool but expensive. 

I bought a crimper and used the stainless clamps with brass fittings, I save the shark bite fittings for where I can't get the crimper in place.

John


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## derf (Jan 22, 2020)

I opted for the shark bite fittings because for the amount of joints and transitions I planned, it was cheaper than buying the crimping tool and bands. Nice thing about the shark bite fittings, they can be disconnected and changed to allow for more lines. Once I had my shop  plumbed the way I wanted, I had some leftover pex. It was enough to run a line all the way to the front of my shop and to the outside for tire inflator. All I had to do to make this happen was to replace an elbow with a Tee.


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## MikeInOr (Jan 22, 2020)

The RapidAir end points / connectors are quite pricey!  What have you guys done to terminate the ends of your RapidAir / PEX pipes with quick connect "reciprocals"?

I like FanMans approach for overhead connections.  What about wall mounted connections?

I was thinking about Drop Ear "Shower head" elbows for wall mounts?








Maybe have one of these mounted so the copper pipe comes out horizontally into a copper T with a condensation drain valve on the bottom of the T?  The top of the T would go to the supply line.


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## FOMOGO (Jan 22, 2020)

I would highly recommend using this gentleman for all your plumbing needs. Cheers, Mike


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## Cadillac (Jan 22, 2020)

Found this ad in the mailbox today figured we were on the subject and someone might find it useful.


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## Janderso (Jan 22, 2020)

Eastwood.
Excellent, thanks.
It looks like it has one manifold and two distribution ports.


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## DAT510 (Jan 22, 2020)

eBay (Summit Racing) has the Maxline 3/4" kit for $159.99 w/ free shipping.  You can also get it for the same price direct from Summitracing.com









						Rapid Air Maxline M7500 3/4" Compressed Air Line System Max Line Shop Piping Kit  | eBay
					

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Rapid Air Maxline M7500 3/4" Compressed Air Line System Max Line Shop Piping Kit at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



					www.ebay.com


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## Al 1 (Jan 22, 2020)

I used 3/4" black iron schedule 40.


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## Cadillac (Jan 22, 2020)

Al 1 said:


> I used 3/4" black iron schedule 40.



The problem I see with using any type of metal piping is rust, it’s harder to install and price. Most people don’t have a threader to buy long lengths and make all your specific lengths then all the couplers and fittings. Other than that it’s some strong stuff.


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## Cadillac (Jan 22, 2020)

Janderso said:


> Eastwood.
> Excellent, thanks.
> It looks like it has one manifold and two distribution ports.




I would  think manifolds and blocks can be easily made with some aluminum and a 1/4 npt tap or what size you’d need.


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## MikeInOr (Jan 23, 2020)

FOMOGO said:


> I would highly recommend using this gentleman for all your plumbing needs. Cheers, Mike
> 
> View attachment 311436



WOW, what a coincidence!   I think he is the contractor that did the original plumbing install on my house!!!!

LOL!

I think his brother did the HVAC!


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## RHayes (Feb 6, 2020)

I ran two drops in my wood shop with 1/2" PEX.  Its just the red 1/2" Vangard for water.  Its buried so not exposed to sunlight and if it ever goes I can just run a new line on the surface.  (I like L copper)  Ran the "L" copper in the mechanical shop using valves I had on hand.  Nice to have a shutoff and bleeder at each one and my air is pretty dry.


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## PT Doc (Feb 7, 2020)

For those that want a true compressed air system, look at Prevost. They have any and every fitting that you could want and many safety QC couplers and many manifold designs. I installed this in my shop and am really happy. All of the fittings are torqued with torque wrench and can be undone and then retightened. This is truly a well thought out system.


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## John_Dennis (Feb 8, 2020)

I have been wondering if Pex would be a good choice for an air system.


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## bfjou812 (Feb 9, 2020)

Mini Cooper S said:


> DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT EVER USE PVC FOR AIR LINES! Very dangerous. I used to work at a startup company that the owner plumbed with PVC air lines. We were always fixing broken lines, owner thought it was funny when a pipe let go with a shotgun blast. We were constantly asking for new air lines but were told the company couldn't afford the cost of shut down and replacement. One day a guy was working at his desk in an upstairs office when he dropped his pencil and bent over to pick it up. Just then a shutoff valve blow off of an air line right outside his window, through his window and embedded it self in the wall across the room! If he hadn't dropped his pencil, it would have hit him in the head probably killing him.
> 
> I, along with the other managers (one of which was the guy that almost got killed), immediately shut down the  entire plant. We then went into the owners office and refused to run the place until all PVC was removed and replaced with proper iron pipe. The owner no longer thought it was funny and we got our new air lines!
> 
> ...


I almost lost a finger when some pvc exploded . It let go at around 110 psi. 
If you read the side of the pvc , it states not for compressed gas use. 
Just my 2¢ worth.


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## FanMan (Feb 9, 2020)

John_Dennis said:


> I have been wondering if Pex would be a good choice for an air system.


Been discussed earlier in this thread.


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## tweinke (Feb 9, 2020)

OSHA does not allow PVC airlines.


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