# My first lathe! What model is it? Pics!



## stevos758 (Oct 7, 2014)

Finally picked up my first lathe! It will need some elbow grease but I think I got a nice little unit! Soaking in a coating of WD-40 since I put in the garage last night. 

Got a box full of the gears and doo dads I still need to sort out. Came with a manual but the mice must have gotten to it before I could and destroyed it. I cant seem to find a definite identification marking either. 

If anyone can tell me what model it is that would be awesome! I am thinking from what I have read so far it's possibly a 10-D? 

My first order of business will be to clean up and inspect everything. 

Enough talk more pics! 

For those of you that don't want to read and just see pics here is the full gallery.
http://imgur.com/a/SkdG4


----------



## Ulma Doctor (Oct 7, 2014)

i could be mistaken, but it looks like an Atlas TH42 (10" x 42" bed) maybe a 10f?
if there is a tag it will probably be down by the tailstock end of the lathe on the vertical face of the base of the lathe just under the ways


----------



## Wierd Harold (Oct 7, 2014)

That looks like a V42 as that is the vertical drive and babbit bearings. I have the same lathe.


----------



## Mondo (Oct 7, 2014)

Welcome to the forum!


My!  That's an old one!  An oldie but a goodie I'm sure!

I agree, that is a V42.  
V for Verticle countershaft configuration.  Verticle meaning the countershaft is almost directly above the spindle as opposed to horizontal configuration that puts the countershaft behind the spindle.
42 is the length of the bed in inches.

The V42 is included in the 10F series.  
10 for 10 inch swing - largest diameter material you can turn over the ways.
F for Forward/Reverse leadscrew (I think)  - has the instant-direction-change gearbox on the leadscrew.

Your lathe has Babbit bearings as evidenced by the bearing caps and capscrews securing the spindle in the headstock.  These bearings require occaisional adjustment.  Occaisional meaning maybe once in your lifetime.  When I bought my 1934-35 vintage at the end of 2008 I had to take one .002 shim out of the original shim packs on one side of each the front and rear bearing caps to remove excess spindle play.  Not bad for a machine that was 70+ years old!

For a basic manual and parts list find this document in the downloads section of this forum: "Atlas Lathe 10 10F Series Parts.pdf"

Enjoy!


----------



## chips&more (Oct 7, 2014)

Your lathe has Babbit bearings as evidenced by the bearing caps and capscrews securing the spindle in the headstock.  These bearings require occaisional adjustment.  Occaisional meaning maybe once in your lifetime.  When I bought my 1934-35 vintage at the end of 2008 I had to take one .002 shim out of the original shim packs on one side of each the front and rear bearing caps to remove excess spindle play.  Not bad for a machine that was 70+ years old![/QUOTE]

Hi and just curious, just before you removed the shims. Did your lathe have any unusual problems? Like maybe chatter? And if so, is the chatter gone now?


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 7, 2014)

Awesome! Thanks for the info! 

Ill get all the gears cleaned up and I'm sure ill need help setting those up. Not even sure everything is in the boxes yet. 

Stay tuned for clean up pics later this week! 

Going to buy some evaporust for the 4 jaw tonight.


----------



## Mondo (Oct 7, 2014)

chips&more said:


> Your lathe has Babbit bearings as evidenced by the bearing caps and capscrews securing the spindle in the headstock.  These bearings require occaisional adjustment.  Occaisional meaning maybe once in your lifetime.  When I bought my 1934-35 vintage at the end of 2008 I had to take one .002 shim out of the original shim packs on one side of each the front and rear bearing caps to remove excess spindle play.  Not bad for a machine that was 70+ years old!



Hi and just curious, just before you removed the shims. Did your lathe have any unusual problems? Like maybe chatter? And if so, is the chatter gone now?[/QUOTE]

When I first acquired the lathe it was dirty and dusty, and needed a thorough cleaning.  I made the shim adjustment as part of a general overhaul before I made any attempt at useing it.  

I am sure that worn bearings will contribute to chatter.  The test is to yank up and down on the spindle or mounted chuck.  (Power disconnected, of course!) Any motion that you can feel is probably enough to indicate time for adjustment.  To verify set up a dial indicator and measure any up and down movement.  .001 is about the limit.  Removing one .002 layer of shim from one side of the front bearing cap will reduce the clearence by .001.   Check the rear (gear) end of the spindle also and make similar adjustment.  Remove as few layers as necessary to achieve a snug fit.  There should be a light drag when turning the spindle by hand with the  belts fully loosened.

Remember the shims are LAYERED - 5 layers of .002 brass soldered together in a pack, one pack under each side of each bearing cap.  A layer can be separated using a pick or point of an Exacto knife then peeled using small pliers. 

Another test is to grap a mounted chuck and see if you can move the spindle axially end-to-end.  If so you need to tighten up the adjusting nut on the gear end of the spindle.

The procedures are discussed on the Manual of Lathe Operations and Machinist Tables.


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 7, 2014)

This is good stuff! I'll pull on mine tonight and see how bad it is. I don't think it moved too much when I picked it up.


----------



## Bill C. (Oct 7, 2014)

stevos758 said:


> Awesome! Thanks for the info!
> 
> Ill get all the gears cleaned up and I'm sure ill need help setting those up. Not even sure everything is in the boxes yet.
> 
> ...



Nice to see someone using these old machines.  When I was in high school they have a buch of South Bend lathes, not quite the sames as yours.  What they have in common is the gear change.  I noticed the adjustable idler bar.  You don't see many today that use that system.  There should be a chart at tells you what size gears to use for the proper feed or thread. I think the idler can be any size the fills the gap between the two main gears.  Also be sure all gears are in full contact with each other with a little movement (play) in the gear train. Put a couple drops of oil on them and close the cover before turning on the lathe, so you don't get oil slung on you.


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 7, 2014)

Bill C. said:


> Nice to see someone using these old machines.  When I was in high school they have a buch of South Bend lathes, not quite the sames as yours.  What they have in common is the gear change.  I noticed the adjustable idler bar.  You don't see many today that use that system.  There should be a chart at tells you what size gears to use for the proper feed or thread. I think the idler can be any size the fills the gap between the two main gears.  Also be sure all gears are in full contact with each other with a little movement (play) in the gear train. Put a couple drops of oil on them and close the cover before turning on the lathe, so you don't get oil slung on you.



Thanks for the input! 

Ha! What cover! : ) 

It does have a sling guard though!


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 7, 2014)

Can someone get me some detailed picks of the gears setup? I think I might be missing some pieces. I cut my first chips! Pics to come later.


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 7, 2014)

Ordered some evapo rust after I got to cleaning some. She really needs it. 

First cut!


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 7, 2014)

Ok more pics.  At this point I'll see what the evaporust does. What does everyone suggest for the ways? How can I  bring them back? 

Now hear is everything I have for the gears. am I missing parts? It seems I am possible missing some bushings? Or perhaps the wrong hardware is on the machine? 

What about the tailstock? I'll get some pics of the inside. What fits on there?

Anything you guys can do to help!


----------



## AR1911 (Oct 7, 2014)

Ideally buy or build a tub to soak the bed, and buy some more Evaporust
soak the bed and everything else at the same time. The ER will remove rust, grease and most everything else except paint and metal


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 8, 2014)

Ohh! That sounds expensive! Was looking at electrolysis too. Might be more cost effective? I suppose I could build a long shallow tub and just dip the ways in? The rest is actually not bad. What should I coat with after? Wd40?


----------



## wa5cab (Oct 8, 2014)

The V-42 is a 10F model with babbit bearings (they could still be ordered up to about 1945).  The 10D has the double-handle crank on the compound feed screw instead of the small thumbwheel that yours has.  My estimate is that it is a Model 1042 from sometime in 1934.  There is a photo of it in Atlas Catalog No. 8.

FWIW, the horizontal countershaft came out with the 10F circa 1938/9.


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 8, 2014)

I forgot I have a friend who has access to a large surface grinder. Should I even have thoughts of doing that in my head?


----------



## John Hasler (Oct 8, 2014)

The ways don't look that bad from here.   Soak them in Evaporust (I'd use phosphoric acid) and then check them over.  You can make a soaking trough out of plastic film plus some boards and bricks and stuff.

[Edit] As those are square ways parts of the edges and undersides matter as well.


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 8, 2014)

I believe I am missing these? Anyone have some dimensions for me? 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Sears-Cra...059?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e92fa5873

Also the compound gears... But I think I can 3D print those. 

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:143893


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 8, 2014)

John Hasler said:


> The ways don't look that bad from here.   Soak them in Evaporust (I'd use phosphoric acid) and then check them over.  You can make a soaking trough out of plastic film plus some boards and bricks and stuff.



Do you think I could just keep coating the ways with it every 15 minutes or so for a few hours or would this be a lost cause?


----------



## John Hasler (Oct 8, 2014)

If you can't rig a tank or trough try naval jelly.  It's jellied phosphoric acid.  You just glop it on and leave it for a few hours, covered with plastic to prevent drying.  Get all the oil off first, of course.

I see that we are neighbors.  I'm in Elmwood.


----------



## AR1911 (Oct 8, 2014)

stevos758 said:


> I forgot I have a friend who has access to a large surface grinder. Should I even have thoughts of doing that in my head?



If you grind the tops of the ways, it drops the carriage in relation to the leadscrew. You have to compensate for that somehow. For an Atlas it's not that hard. But I don't see that your ways are that bad. Check them with a micrometer. Thickness at the edge should not vary more than maybe .002" along the length. Check the rear edge also.


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 8, 2014)

Oh wow! Didn't even catch that! Howdy neighbor! 

Ill try making a tank. maybe some 2x4s and some plastic?


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 8, 2014)

AR1911 said:


> If you grind the tops of the ways, it drops the carriage in relation to the leadscrew. You have to compensate for that somehow. For an Atlas it's not that hard. But I don't see that your ways are that bad. Check them with a micrometer. Thickness at the edge should not vary more than maybe .002" along the length. Check the rear edge also.




Will do! Thanks!


----------



## John Hasler (Oct 8, 2014)

Soaking just the ways in a shallow field-expedient tank would work.  You will get a line of crud at the top of the fluid level.  You can get phosphoric acid in the form of pipeline cleaner or milkstone remover at a farm store such as Fleet-Farm.  Dilute it about 4:1 and soak overnight.  It will do pretty much the same job as Evaporust.

When you are done you want to coat your ways with some sort of way oil.  I use chainsaw bar and chain oil.  WD40 will only last a couple of days.


----------



## shaddr3 (Oct 8, 2014)

My ways were rusted like that in spots, I took a fine scotch brite type of pad along with wd40 and went at it again and again. Maybe not the best way but it removed the rust and worked.


----------



## wa5cab (Oct 8, 2014)

Stevos,

The parts in the eBay ad are made by AA, not Atlas, and are off of a 6".  Don't buy them.  Yours look like those but are larger.



stevos758 said:


> I believe I am missing these? Anyone have some dimensions for me?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Sears-Cra...059?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e92fa5873
> 
> ...


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 8, 2014)

Ok. I think I will just try and fabricate something that will get me by until I can find someone with the same machine to get me going. I have the keyway bushings. I just need to make the bushings between those and the bolt itself. Should be easy enough to make. Luckily we have a working lathe at work! :  )


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 9, 2014)

Evapo rust is working it's magic as we speak. Looked pretty good this morning. 

Can anyone get some rough dimensions of the bolts, and bushings that hold on the gears? 

I have the double keyway bushings. I need the dimensions of the ones between them and the bolts. Also Bolt dimensions. I am going to try and make some bushings after work. I will also need to pick up some bolts from the hardware store and try and get them to work.

One more question. What fits inside the tailstock? Is it in fact MT#2? 

Pics of progress to come later this evening.


----------



## AR1911 (Oct 9, 2014)

Just a note of caution on Evaporust: If the part is not fully submerged, any bare ferrous metal at the liquid/air line will be etched. If that portion is painted it will be OK. So when doing a bed, invert it in the tank an make the liquid level intersect with a painted section, such as the "feet" or possibly the area of the bed just below the carriage rack, provided the ends are also painted at that level. 
   Raise the level of liquid as needed by packing additional rusty parts around and inside the bed


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 9, 2014)

I am just doing the chuck and various other things. The ways were hit with some more steel wool and they are looking pretty good now. 

All of the stuff in the evaporust is thankfully fully immersed. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 9, 2014)

I also forgot to mention my babbit bearings are packed with grease..... I assume this is bad and I should remove and clean?


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 9, 2014)

Ok, Question..... How do I get my tool to the right height? It seems really low and I dont think it should be tilted so far.
#2 How do I measure the X axis cuts? I have no dial?


----------



## wa5cab (Oct 10, 2014)

Definitely do not use grease on babbit bearings.  Pull one bearing cap at a time and remove all grease (don't lose the shim packs).  Use SAE 20 ND or equivalent daily.  Get a couple of the felt plugs that the later lathes have in each spindle bearing oil cup.  With them, if you forget to put oil in the cups for a day or two you won't hurt anything.



stevos758 said:


> I also forgot to mention my babbit bearings are packed with grease..... I assume this is bad and I should remove and clean?


----------



## wa5cab (Oct 10, 2014)

1.) Look at the cutter grinding section in the MOLO.  With the original lantern tool post, the cutters were sitting at a pretty steep angle and the cutter was ground accordingly.

2.)  Post a top view photo of the area around the compound and crossfeed hand wheels.  According to the mid 30's catalogs, all of the 10" models came with a 1" dia. micrometer dial on both the compound and cross feed, graduated 0-0.100 in .001 increments.  Maybe the engraving is just coated over with accumulated crud and grime.  



stevos758 said:


> Ok, Question..... How do I get my tool to the right height? It seems really low and I dont think it should be tilted so far.
> #2 How do I measure the X axis cuts? I have no dial?


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 10, 2014)

wa5cab said:


> 1.) Look at the cutter grinding section in the MOLO.  With the original lantern tool post, the cutters were sitting at a pretty steep angle and the cutter was ground accordingly.
> 
> 2.)  Post a top view photo of the area around the compound and crossfeed hand wheels.  According to the mid 30's catalogs, all of the 10" models came with a 1" dia. micrometer dial on both the compound and cross feed, graduated 0-0.100 in .001 increments.  Maybe the engraving is just coated over with accumulated crud and grime.



I might be calling it the wrong thing. The cross feed and compound have dials. The other one pictured in my 2nd pic. That is the one I am referring too. 

Ill check out the tool grinding section. That makes sense I guess. I just wasn't sure if something was wrong with it. 

Ok my tail stock.... What taper fits in there? I want to find a drill chuck and live center for it. Right now its just the shaft with measurements. Its open on the inside and I'm not sure how it would hold anything? I'll try and get some pics tonight to explain. 

I'll get to those greasy bearings asap. 

One more thing... My ways. The carriage gets really tough to move on the far half of travel. I assume it was used mostly near the chuck and broke in well. Would my best bet be to lap the other half?


----------



## shaddr3 (Oct 10, 2014)

Your tailstock is a MT2 taper


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 10, 2014)

So I can use one of these in there then? 

https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2870&category=7


----------



## GK1918 (Oct 10, 2014)

stevos758 said:


> So I can use one of these in there then?
> 
> Yes MT2 on the tailstock and the usual MT 3 on the headstock.  I think your reference to the missing  dial, thats  the carriage, which there are none ( not to say they don't exist) .
> what we usually do is stick a magnetic dial indicator on a convenient location, thats not on the important list right now.  I think first off what Bob said carefully remove bearing caps
> ...


----------



## wa5cab (Oct 10, 2014)

OK.  That is the carriage drive or carriage traverse handwheel.  I don't know of any at least older engine lathes that have that function instrumented, at least as originally built.  What one usually does is to use a carriage stop attached to the front way to the left of the carriage.  Or to mount a dial indicator usually on the back way to the right of the carriage.  The other option is to mount a long DRO on the rear of the bed with its buggy attached to the back of the carriage.  However, about the only time that you need to know where the carriage is is when turning to a shoulder.  And usually you don't really care where it is, you just need to stop at the right point.  

You don't normally use the carriage drive for cutting relatively narrow grooves.  For that you would position and then lock down the carriage and use a grooving tool (which is essentially the same as a cutoff tool) set square to the work.  

On the carriage getting tight toward the right end of the bed, that could indicate preferential wear on the back of the rear way, but before you go and start removing metal, clean the back of the rear way and the front of the front way down to bare metal.  And as previously suggested run the machine for a while.  Over the years, oil drying on the metal can leave a varnish buildup layer.



stevos758 said:


> I might be calling it the wrong thing. The cross feed and compound have dials. The other one pictured in my 2nd pic. That is the one I am referring too.
> 
> 
> One more thing... My ways. The carriage gets really tough to move on the far half of travel. I assume it was used mostly near the chuck and broke in well. Would my best bet be to lap the other half?


----------



## Round in circles (Oct 10, 2014)

stevos758 said:


> I believe I am missing these? Anyone have some dimensions for me?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Sears-Cra...059?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e92fa5873
> 
> ...



On the eighth picture from the end of your run of photos , you have a shot of one of the gear retaining bolts sitting in the banjo C/W  nut and washer ( almost dead in nthe centre of the picture )  . My lathe was missing one of these complete bushing sets  ..ideally you need three to get a big range of gear trains /ratios as well as two of the alloy ferrules with the driving keys cast on them ( your eBay link )picture ).

 I measured up one of the gear retainers &  ferrule that was on the lathe then  wrote down the dimension and recorded the measurements , checking them twice on the parts  to ensure I hadn't made any errors ( A long dead old engineers tip ).
Using a 1/2 dia long shanked mild steel coach bolt , these have a square on the shank just under the domed head to stop the bolt turning when fastened in wood  & that is ideal for our purposes .
  I turned the unthreaded shank to the correct dimensions of the retaining bolt .... don't turn off the square shank .  
Cut it at the correct length &  threaded the end to the correct length  , filing down the square of the coach bolt evenly on each side using a "  hand safe edge file " , it has no teeth on one of the edge so it wont file from that face ).

Make sure it fits in the banjo's slot in all four planes by rotating it and testing the fit  . Then I turned off some of the domed head to make the head the same size as the original bolt .. had to centre drill the dome and use a cut away dead centre to get the tool in to do it   It was easier to initial dimension the bolt for the ferrule , threading & length using the chuck at the threaded end and the head  in the dead centre.    The full domed head was turned to a  "  5/16 thick cheese head with a dome @ 9 /16 "  dia  " 
Then   the finished dome head was turned down with the new bolt end  set close in the chuck , avoiding putting the threaded part in the chuck jaws . Had I given it any thought I could have done this whilst the bolt was still  in chuck and held on the cut away dead centre as there was sufficient clearance .

 The hollow top hat / ferrule / bearing  was turned to the correct dimensions  taking the last five cuts at a very fine cut & at a high speed then polished with a fine wet & dry .  It was finally burnished with liquid brasso ( liquid stainless steel  sink cleaner will work but it's not as good because there is no oil in it )  on some thick solid cardboard.

 When making this ferrule make sure it will be long enough to work with all the gears . The first one I made was two thou too short and as a result a couple of the gears  were nipped when I tightened the retaining nut on  the anchor bolt whilst the gear was set in th banjo slot .... resulting in a semi solid gear instead of a free turning on . . You need washers on the bolt under the retaining nut  to stop the gear coming off . Use the correct dimension washer under the retaining nut , make sure it is a true flat washer & not  partially counter sunk or twisted , even if you have to turn them up your self . 
 Lubricate the ferrule inside & outside when assembling them in the gear and make sure that there  is no crud on the anchor bolt that will cause the ferrule to bind .

When making up a gear train have everything finger tight and gently pull each set to be tightened towards the front of the lathe so it meshes easily but positively with the other gears then gently nip its retaining nut  tight ( Don't do  a gorilla job on it  because the threads are quite thin )  .

Everything was now ready to build a desired gear train .
 When I made up my 97 TPI train & had every thing set , meshed and tightened it was rather noisy to run so I used spray on  ( rattle can )  white grease and  copper grease  out of a 1 pound tub .  It was heavily spread on & into the gears with a long spatula of wood I'd cut on my band saw whilst the lathe was stopped , did this with the headstock casings gears as well .. it now runs  amazingly quiet .


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 10, 2014)

Wow just WOW! Very helpful! I was actually just emailed the dimensions of the bushins as well! Soon  I will be a screw cutting son of a....!!!!!  : ) 

Thank you very much!  I will document this build to help future owners with this problem. I should get at her next week when I get my drill chuck and hopefully my uncle will find his brand new quickchange tool post! 

Going to clean and play for a while! Thanks again!


----------



## Round in circles (Oct 10, 2014)

stevos758 said:


> I might be calling it the wrong thing. The cross feed and compound have dials. The other one pictured in my 2nd pic. That is the one I am referring too.
> 
> Ill check out the tool grinding section. That makes sense I guess. I just wasn't sure if something was wrong with it.
> 
> ...



You can make your own live centre for the lathe . I made mine as follows :-

.Out of some 2 " dia x 6 " long mild steel bar I turned the bar out as a 1& 1/4 " deep cup in a 2 " long section  to an interference fit with a sealed 1& 1/4 " OD , 1/2" ID dia 5/8 wide reasonably high grade bearing that will take a bit of thrust in any direction  ( got a set of four out of a damaged disabled persons wheel chair ) .  Then  turned the outer face to 1& 1/2 " ... turned a 1& 1/2  " long by 1/2 " tail on the opposite end .

 Made an interference fit stepped collared centre point @ 45 degree point 5/8 major dia and of course 1/2 " minor where it will fit in the bearing , made out of a stainless steel tensile concrete anchor bolt I had in the filing cabinets , the length protruding forward of th stepped collar is about 3/4 ".

  Assembly was simple , I put the stainless point in the freezer @ minus 21 oC for 1/2 hr.. to shrink it a tad ,  it slipped into the bearing with a gentle press from a hammer & a 1/4 predrilled hole over the point  ....used  a bit of 4x4 x6 inch  thick plastic  separator block out of a pallet truck pallet.

 This was then slipped back in the freezer for another half hour ,  towards the end of the half hour I boiled up the electric kettle and poured the boiling water over the tailed cup whilst it was in a sauce pan , brought it to the boil for a few minutes , tipped out the water , took it to the garage and with oven gloves on slopped it in a predrilled plastic block so it sat cup uppermost , took the point & bearing assembly out the freezer and tapped point facing outwards into the cupped holder using the hammer & other block again.

 It is reasonably accurate.. slightly slack & sloppy when it is in no load condition but when under pressure in a correctly aligned lathe the bearing inner is pressed back against the precision ground outer race face and runs exceedingly accurate.

 I'm currently running the home made live centre in a half inch jawed heavy duty chuck set in a Morse taper in the tail stock ,this does give a bit of inaccuracy , but as yet nothing that is critical.
 later when I have some free dosh i will buy a sealed taper bearing of the same dimensions  remake the centre as well as turning up a mild steel Morse taper with a 1/2 " parallel centre hole .

To fit the modified tail in the hole of the Morse I will heat the taper with boiling water like before  and freeze the live bearing part , smear the tail of the live part in some super glue and use my home made 12 ton press to put them together .


----------



## Round in circles (Oct 10, 2014)

stevos758 said:


> Wow just WOW! Very helpful! I was actually just emailed the dimensions of the bushins as well! Soon  I will be a screw cutting son of a....!!!!!  : )
> 
> Thank you very much!  I will document this build to help future owners with this problem. I should get at her next week when I get my drill chuck and hopefully my uncle will find his brand new quickchange tool post!
> 
> Going to clean and play for a while! Thanks again!



 In one of the pictures that you  show the gears laid out on a table top towards the middle there is a strange sort of  " W "looking shaped metal plate .. that looks a lot like a thread angle gauge.  It's used to check that you have ground the cutting tools to the correct angles ready for thread cutting on the lathe.  When it's de rusted and rubbed to a polish with a bit of wire wool & " Brasso " it would not surprise me if you find it is engraved or stamped with the various angles on each part .


----------



## markknx (Oct 10, 2014)

Nice lathe, "What about the tailstock? I'll get some pics of the inside. What fits on there?"      it should be a morris taper of some size maybe MT 3 or MT 4 ? It looks like the drill bit laying in one of your pics will fit the tail stock bore. There are many tools that can be mounted to the tail stock, things like centers, drills, reamers, rotory broaches and the like are some that come to mind. Mark


----------



## wa5cab (Oct 11, 2014)

The tailstock ram has a #2 Morse taper bore on all Atlas 9" and larger.  The spindle taper is #3 Morse.


----------



## mark18mwm (Oct 11, 2014)

Well, I'm almost a neighbor of yours also. I am in Ogema Wi., about 1-1/2 hours north east of Chippewa. I will be following your progress, I have a TH54 that I am trying to figure out and go through piece by piece. Thanks for all the pics, nice to compare yours to mine.  I'm anxious to see how the Evaporust works for you, I have a few parts needing some attention.  And thanks to all you guys answering his questions, some of his questions are some of the same questions I have. I'm a newbie here and already learning a ton, thanks everyone.   Again good job stevos758, looking forward to more.


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 11, 2014)

Nice! Buy evaporust! It works but only soaking parts. If you are doing anything large I think electrolysis is the way to go. I gtg I'll post more later. If you look above the 4 jaw chuck was soaked in evaporust for 24 hours. Its impresive stuff


----------



## mark18mwm (Oct 12, 2014)

Did you buy the Evaporust around the Eauclaire/Chippewa area? I get there often and would like to find some to try out. The chuck looks great, that is one thing needing some attention on my lathe.


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 12, 2014)

I ordered mine from amazon. I am told harbor freight has it. Check out the one in eau Claire. I would think they carry it.


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 14, 2014)

Small update! 

Aquiring a quick change tool post from my uncle this evening. Not sure what brand it is but I'm sure it will work for now. 

Ordered a Chicago/latobe HSS drill bit set, South bend way oil, tap magic! Grabbing a few ounces of Mobile DTE24 (ISO32) oil from work. 

I did some more checking and it appears my bearings might just have some absorbing cloth in them to hold oil. I thought it was grease at first but I was wrong. 

I got the gear reduction broke loose/figured out! I didn't know what that lever did until Sunday! 

The only thing I have left to de rust is the steady rest.  will be done with everything then! 

My drill chuck shows up Thursday. I should be able to start making my bushings so I can get to some threading! 

I think tonight will be cleaning and setting up the QCTP. I hope it works on there. 

Ill get some pics. 

Also I was thinking of adding a 36" Igauging digital readout on the lathe. What are your opinions? Will that decrease the value? I don't want to go ruining a nice piece of vintage equipment!


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 15, 2014)

Picked up the QCTP last night. Needed to modify the compound and make a T-nut out of the plate that came with it...... 

Blew a fuse in my G0704 so I didnt make it very far... I have the worst of luck with new machines blowing fuses. Anyway... 
Ill get the T-nut drawings up when I can.


----------



## drs23 (Oct 15, 2014)

Looking forward to the "finished" pictures. )


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 20, 2014)

Ended the life of 5 endmills on the t nut project and still not done. : P. I have me some learning to do.....

On a side note while I await my new endmills I am thinking of picking up a 3 jaw chuck. Anyone have any recommendations. I want to balance accuracy and budget.


----------



## GarageGuy (Oct 20, 2014)

shaddr3 said:


> My ways were rusted like that in spots, I took a fine scotch brite type of pad along with wd40 and went at it again and again. Maybe not the best way but it removed the rust and worked.



My ways had a lot of surface rust on them, and that's what I did as well.  Scotch Brite pads and 10w non detergent oil until they were clean and shiny.  I used the kitchen variety Scotch Brite pads, and not the round "cookies" you use with a die grinder.

GG


----------



## GarageGuy (Oct 20, 2014)

stevos758 said:


> Ended the life of 5 endmills on the t nut project and still not done. : P. I have me some learning to do.....



The T-nut should not be hardened steel, so if you go at it slow and easy it should cut fine.  Make sure your spindle speed is not too fast for your end mill diameter.  The blue chips can indicate too high of a cutting speed on mild steel.  I killed off a few end mills while learning too.  Keep the dead ones, though.  They can be sharpened, or even re-ground into new cutting tools.  

GG


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 23, 2014)

Good news.... I got my quick change on... Bad news... as soon as I did the god damn motor quit working! Gonna meg it at work tomorrow.... I've been having all the luck lately.


----------



## stevos758 (Oct 24, 2014)

Crisis averted... There was a small button on the motor that disconnected the points... Totally did not see it. Turn on brothers.


----------



## stevos758 (Nov 2, 2014)

Finally made some make do bushings for now. the 3D printed ones out of ABS seemed to work fine until I pulled them out they delaminated. I think I will make some in nylon next week.  Now I need to 3D print all the gears as I found my set is not complete. 

I broke my 3d printer so that wont start till next week. Ill report back. 

Also, Bad news, I broke my handwheel on my tailstock. Fell right apart when I was sliding it backwards... Oh well, what do you expect from something that old. Gives me another project to accomplish!


----------

