# Correct way to repair a spirit level



## AndySomogyi (Feb 3, 2020)

Plaster of Paris is the correct material to hold the vial in a spirit level. The reason why is that plaster is easy to remove WHEN it breaks again. Consider that the reason you’re replacing the vial is because it’s broken. If it broke once, it will break again.

Some have said that bathroom caulk will work. Sure, it will hold the vial, but good luck removing it when you need to replace the vial again. Plaster can easily be completely removed simply by soaking it in water, then a quick rinse and it’s clean and ready to go.

This is a weird level, it’s a Starrett 98 that I bought used, but somebody replaced the vial with a 199 one, so it’s 0.0005” per foot per division.


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## benmychree (Feb 4, 2020)

Yes, plaster of paris is the correct thing, that is how they are made originally, I have mounted several vials with that method, including  a Starrett 98 replaced with a .0005 vial (I still have it, so it is not the same one that you have).


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## mickri (Feb 4, 2020)

Where do you buy the vials?  I have one that I need to replace.


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## AndySomogyi (Feb 5, 2020)

mickri said:


> Where do you buy the vials?  I have one that I need to replace.


Go to the Starrett web page, and look up the part number, then google the part number. Lots of places on ebay and Amazon sell them.


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## Richard King 2 (Feb 11, 2020)

I stopped using plaster of Paris years ago and now use white Silicone calk.  so much easier and less mess.


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## AndySomogyi (Feb 11, 2020)

Richard King 2 said:


> I stopped using plaster of Paris years ago and now use white Silicone calk.  so much easier and less mess.



I'll agree that caulk is easier. However, my point was that *if* the vial broke once, it _*will*_ _*break*_ again. With plaster, you simply soak the tube in water, and all the old plaster dissolves away, and easy to replace the vial. With caulk, I have no idea what removes it, acetone wont, MEK generally won't, usually you have to mechanically remove it, and that's a huge pain. 

It's like when I worked as a VW tech, I learned not to use Loctite 574 on valve covers (or anything else that might ever have to be removed again), sure it seals great, but good luck pulling pulling them again, when you have to re-adjust the valves.


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## Janderso (Feb 11, 2020)

Richard, I see you are up at 3:16. I was up at 2:45 this morning. Ridiculous. 
I didn't know they used plaster.


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## Richard King 2 (Feb 11, 2020)

I have soaked plastered vials in cold, warm and hot water for days and they never get soft.  I go in there with a screw driver,  punch, drill and break it loose.  My Dad invented a level that used 2 vials and we used to repair level vials all the time.   One other thing is to slide in a white piece of paper under the vial.  I have the best luck using an index card with pointed ends <===> .   The vial I use for the most part is the .0003" and .0005" per 12". same as the Starrett 199 level vials.  I am just explaining my methods and you can take it or leave it.


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## AndySomogyi (Feb 11, 2020)

Mine had a bunch of old plaster in it from a prev repair, and I boiled it water few min and dissolved easily.

where can you buy the 0.0003 vials? I think I might make a few brass tubes with the same dimension as the Starrett, so I could have them interchangeable. Guess I can even get fancy and nickel plate them.


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## projectnut (Feb 11, 2020)

Are you referring to a carpenters level, or a machinists level.  If it's a machinists level I would check it closely with a straight edge, or possibly a DTI before just purchasing and installing a new vial.  If the level was dropped hard enough to damage the vial the fall also quite possibly damaged the level itself.

Many years ago I was called to a production facility to repair the loading section of a processing machine.  The anchor bolts on one of the columns had worked loose allowing the column to swivel and cant to one side.  The column had to be rotated back into place and be perfectly plumb for the loading section to operate properly. 

We worked hours to reposition the column and shim it to the proper position.  Once the bolts were tightened the column once again was not plumb according to the level.  We disassembled everything once again checking the mating surfaces, anchor bolts, straightness of the column and everything else we could think of.  Once again the column was hoisted into position and the plumb was measured.  It was reshimmed and the anchor bolts retightened.  Once again after tightening the bolts the column appeared out of plumb.  This time we were beyond frustration.  30 hours had elapsed between our first attempt and completing the second. 

This time someone finally admitted that the level had previously been dropped from quite a distance.  It had landed hard enough that several of the vials had broken.  While the vials had been replaced the level itself had never been measured to insure it was still straight.  Sure enough the level was slightly bent.  Not enough to be noticed by the naked eye, but certainly enough to no longer be accurate.  Laid against the column with one end at the top gave a totally different measurement than when the level was placed against the column with the opposite end up.

Hard lesson learned.  Be sure your tools are accurate before trusting them to make critical measurements.


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## whitmore (Feb 11, 2020)

Richard King 2 said:


> I have soaked plastered vials in cold, warm and hot water for days and they never get soft.


I've always used a dilution of vinegar in warm water, and a little bit of brushing.   Plaster, and plaster of paris, are different;
the plaster of paris is my preference.


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## Richard King 2 (Feb 13, 2020)

2 places in the states.
Don Bauck
Operations Manager
W.A. Moyer Company
Ph: 620-343-2366
Fx: 620-343-8085
E: dbauck@wamoyer.com

0r

David Oster
Geier & Bluhm
Division of HJM Precision, Inc.
9 New Turnpike Road
Troy, NY 12182
T: 518-272-6951
F: 518-272-0533
david.oster@geier-bluhm.com


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## Galegopc (Jul 15, 2021)

Richard King 2 said:


> I stopped using plaster of Paris years ago and now use white Silicone calk.  so much easier and less mess.


I followed your advice and loved! Plaster is “supposed” to wash out with water but I haven’t been lucky on doing it and instead had to scrape the heel out of it. I’m still figuring out a way to calibrate it and then adjust the bubble to start in the middle when level but it’s a work in progress. Thank you for your tip!


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## Richard King 2 (Jul 16, 2021)

I just eye ball it in the center.  Perfect in the middle is not needed.  I also use a piece of paper or a index card under the bubble so the white paper reflects the light.   I cut the paper ends narrow on the end <=====>   like that and squirt in the white Silicone in both ends of the tube, then use my thumb on the bubble to move it  to and froe to make sure the vial is attached to the tube and vial. 

PS: I scrape the plaster out with a drill bit that is a little under the side of the inside of the tube.  Hold the drill by hand.  I've also used a steak knife to scrape it out.  

One it is dry and you put it back in the level castings, on a Starrett level one side is adjustable,  So set the level on a level plane and  flip it end for end and watch the bubble.  and only adjust on one end of the flip.  You adjust the bubble 1/2 the distance of the error.  Then flip again, see where the bubble is, flip it back and adjust until your with 1 graduation or less.  Be sure to wear cotton gloves when holding the level so the heat of your hand doesn't the bubble or casting.


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## Richard King 2 (Jul 16, 2021)

If you don't have a level surface set the level on a flat surface like a granite plate, start to rotate the level in a circle until the bubble finds a flat plain and then lay a steel scale of a heavy flat bar stock and flip the level end for end and set the vial.  Watch Tom Lipton from Ox tool how to do it.




    about minute 7.  

PS: Tom took one of my Vacaville, CA classes.


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