# Southbend Heavy Ten Tailstock Quil.



## Joe0121 (Feb 11, 2015)

So I order a new brass nut and tailstock screw for my heavy ten as the old one had .070 of backlash. Anyways it looks like the nut presses in and out. On my machine it looks like some one drilled through the quill and nut and installed two set screws for some reason. I pressed the new one in but both the old and new tail stock screw are crazy tight in fact I cant move either to the bottom of their travel. I e-mailed the guy I bough then off of and he said to work it in and out and it will loosen up. But with the new screw and the handle on I still cant get it all the way in. 

I put the new screw in the 6 jaw scroll chuck the came with the lathe and there is less than .001 run out which is probably in the chuck and not the screw. I also got a new cross slide nut from the same guy and that runs in and out smooth as glass so I wonder if the quill is out of round or something and causing the acme screw to bind. I think what I may do is pony up the money for a tap and just tap the nut in the quill and deal with what ever runout results. 

http://www.use-enco.com/1/1/54368-hss-4-flute-acme-thread-taps-505-6803.html


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## janvanruth (Feb 11, 2015)

what year is your heavy ten?
i ask because mine doesnt have a nut, but the threads are cut directly into the quill
the older explosion drawings also show a thread cut into the quill

does the screw go al the way into the quill when the quill isnt assembled in the tailstock?
if it does your problem likely is that the nut is not concentric

if the screw wont fit the quill even if it isnt assembled the threads might be to tightly cut
i woul try and use the old screw for lapping out the nut


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## lugnard (Feb 12, 2015)

Here is a used tap on ebay for around $40

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-FIELD-...aultDomain_0&hash=item58be6cc7ea#ht_128wt_847


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## lugnard (Feb 12, 2015)

Oops..My bad. Right hand threads.


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## Joe0121 (Feb 12, 2015)

janvanruth said:


> what year is your heavy ten?
> i ask because mine doesnt have a nut, but the threads are cut directly into the quill
> the older explosion drawings also show a thread cut into the quill
> 
> ...


Mine was made in 1976. The quill is outside of the tail stock and it still will not go all the way in.  I will try the old screw and maybe some lapping compound I use for lapping bolt lugs on the rifles. If that doesn't work I'm just going to buy a tap and re tap the threads. 

this quill has a brass plug that is threaded down the center and presses into the quill.


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## Joe0121 (Feb 12, 2015)

lugnard said:


> Oops..My bad. Right hand threads.


I found some new ones from Great Brittian for aprox 40 bucks shipped.


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## Ranger (Feb 12, 2015)

When I rebuilt my tail stock I too bought the screw and nut from Ebay guy and it
also had the pins to hold the nut into the the barrel, not set screws like you describe
Mine was very tight as well and so I lubed it with 3-1 oil and attached my power
impact screw gun to the new screw and zipped in in and out several times then cleaned
everything and did it again and the forth time it became nice and smooth by hand, its kind 
like breaking it in, no slop or backlash to speak of


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## Joe0121 (Feb 13, 2015)

Ranger said:


> When I rebuilt my tail stock I too bought the screw and nut from Ebay guy and it
> also had the pins to hold the nut into the the barrel, not set screws like you describe
> Mine was very tight as well and so I lubed it with 3-1 oil and attached my power
> impact screw gun to the new screw and zipped in in and out several times then cleaned
> ...


How did you attach it to the screw? Jacobs Chuck? I have a Makita impact driver and an impact jacobs chuck I may try that tonight.


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## janvanruth (Feb 16, 2015)

1976, so they must have figured out that steel on steel is a problem in durability as mine is pre 1945 and the thread is cut into the quill itself.
After you get the better part of the binding out by  lapping it, stop and clean everything thoroughly and apply MoS2 and continue breaking in, you will be amazed 
of the difference in resistance MoS2 will give.


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## Joe0121 (Feb 16, 2015)

janvanruth

I attached the screw to my Bosch 20v cordless drill. I got it nice and lapped and running smooth. Went to take it over to my wash bin and dropped the quill/screw assy on the floor and broke the small thread section the hold the hand wheel. So 47.95 down the tubes. I'm out of town for work so next week when I get home I'll try the MoS2 and see how it runs.


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## Ski (Feb 16, 2015)

Is it big enough to center drill/ tap and replace the broken part with a new piece?


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## janvanruth (Feb 17, 2015)

bugger!!!
you could turn down the end and thread it
will cost you some travel though


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## Joe0121 (Feb 17, 2015)

Busted off right at the thread relief. Besides I only have one lathe and it is in pieces at the moment.  Make me wish I hadn't gotten rid of the reed prentice.


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## janvanruth (Feb 24, 2015)

it breaking just like that makes me wonder what material it was made of?


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## OldMachinist (Feb 24, 2015)

You don't need the tailstock to still use the lathe. With a drill chuck mounted on the tool post and positioned on the centerline of the spindle you can do almost all the same operations as you would with a tailstock.


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## Joe0121 (Feb 24, 2015)

Janvanruth, It was in the quill when it fell and it dropped a good 4 feet

Old Machinist, 

I agree but I am tearing the whole machine apart and "rebuilding it" so I have other stuff to work on in the interim.


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## janvanruth (Feb 25, 2015)

I had a look at mine and the thread is much smaller than i thought it be.
You could drill the quill and silver sother a piece of apropriate bolt in it.
Or drill tap and loctite a piece of bolt in it.
Wouldnt need a working lathe for that and would probably be stronger than the original.


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