# Remove 5c Collet And Put L00 Adapter On Lathe Question



## Joe Pitz (Jul 11, 2015)

Hello 

My lathe is a Clausing 6316.

I ordered a L00 adapter plate for my chuck,  I removed the rear 5C collect system from the lathe.

I now would like to loosen the ring at the front of the headstock.

I am not sure which way to turn the ring.  Could someone let me know?

Also is it safe to put the headstock in back gears to lock the spindle in order to loosen the locking ring?

First time I have tried this.  I want to mount my new adapter and turn the register down to mate up to my chuck.

Thanks

Joe


----------



## JimDawson (Jul 11, 2015)

Pretty sure the lock ring turns clockwise as you are looking at the spindle.  Use the spanner wrench if you got one with your lathe.  You may have to tap the wrench pretty hard with a dead blow hammer to loosen it.

Yes, put the lathe in the lowest possible gear or lock in the back gear without pulling the pin to lock the spindle.


----------



## Joe Pitz (Jul 11, 2015)

So clockwise to loosen?

Joe


----------



## JimDawson (Jul 11, 2015)

Yup, pretty sure it's a right hand thread.  You can confirm this by looking at the thread on your adapter.  If you wrap your fingers around the threaded portion of the adapter and then ''unscrew'' it, you can tell for sure.  It you turn it counter-clockwise to unscrew it from your fingers then it is a right hand thread.  Be careful doing this, the threads might be sharp, maybe use a rag.

The lock ring will turn the opposite direction to loosen.

Another note:  As you loosen the lock ring, it will get tight again because it has to push the nose protector off of the spindle as well as break the 5C adapter loose from the taper.  Turn until it stops, if the taper hasn't popped loose, then hitting the nose protector with a dead blow hammer at this point may be required to break the taper loose.


----------



## Joe Pitz (Jul 11, 2015)

Yes,  worked just like you said,  I checked the direction of the threads on the adapter.  Then hit the wrench with a plastic mallet.
Turned until it got stiff again,  hit the nose and repeated several times came right off.  Adapter is mounted on the spindle and tomorrow I will turn the adapter.  

Thanks,  getting excited to have a working chuck again.  

Joe


----------



## JimDawson (Jul 11, 2015)

I've done it once or twice 

Happy to hear it worked.


----------



## Silverbullet (Jul 12, 2015)

Remember when installing your chuck clean both the head stock and the adapter, you should put a board on the ways to protect them incase you drop when mounting or removing . Just some tips to help.


----------



## Joe Pitz (Jul 12, 2015)

Thanks Silverbullet,  good tips on working with the chuck.

Joe


----------



## wa5cab (Jul 13, 2015)

I have a slightly better suggestion than just a board laid across the ways for safe handling of chucks during change out.  If you have single V-bed ways, a simple board laid across them is a disaster waiting to happen as it will be at an angle and if you drop the chuck, it will immediately roll off the back.  The board will work on a flat bed, or on a bed with two V-ways.  But an improvement is to make a cradle that will support the chuck more or less in line with the spindle and also not allow it to roll.  I have an Atlas 3996 which is a 12X36.  And my most commonly used chuck is a fairly heavy Pratt-Bernard 6" 3-jaw.  For this combination, a 4X4 is a good choice.  Cut a length of the chosen size board to a length a little wider than the bed.  If the bed has V's, cut out the bottom to clear the V or V's.  Run the chuck jaws all the way in and turn the chuck so that one jaw is at 12:00.  Slide the board up against the front of the chuck and with a pencil trace the OD of the chuck against the back of the board.  With a band saw, cut out the top of the board along the lower edge of the tracing.  Slide the board under the chuck and confirm that there is a little clearance (.010" to .015" say).  Whenever you need to dismount the chuck, first slide the board under it.  Then uncouple the chuck from the spindle and it will settle onto the board.  If the spindle is threaded, slide the board toward you as you unscrew the chuck.  The chuck will settle onto the board when it is uncoupled.  Now, pick up the board and chuck and carry it to wherever you are going to stow it while off of the lathe.  Absent an earthquake, the chuck won't go anywhere so long as it is sitting in the radiused cutout on top of the board.

To reinstall the chuck, reverse the procedure.


----------



## JimDawson (Jul 13, 2015)

Robert's suggestion is good, and a common way of handling a chuck.  As an alternative, I use a wood dowel, about 18 inches long.  When removing or installing a chuck, I put the dowel through the chuck and then well into the spindle.  My lathe has a 1.62 bore in the spindle, so I use a 1.25 dowel.  This allows easy control of the chuck, and it can't fall on your fingers.


----------



## Joe Pitz (Jul 13, 2015)

Thanks Robert,

This sounds like a slick way to mount and unmount the chuck.

Joe


----------



## wa5cab (Jul 14, 2015)

Joe,

It certainly reduces the pucker factor for me.

Jim,

If doing it your way, I would strongly recommend a 3/4" diameter aluminum round bar instead of a wooden dowel for the the lathes with 25/32" bore spindles.


----------



## JimDawson (Jul 14, 2015)

wa5cab said:


> If doing it your way, I would strongly recommend a 3/4" diameter aluminum round bar instead of a wooden dowel for the the lathes with 25/32" bore spindles.



:+1:


----------



## Joe Pitz (Jul 14, 2015)

Thanks Jim and Robert, good ideas.  When I get the chuck back together I will have to try this method.  Luckily I have the chuck split and using the back section for fitting when I lathe the register down to size.  It is not that heavy.

Joe


----------



## wa5cab (Jul 14, 2015)

Joe,

One minor point.  "Lathe" is not a verb.  The correct verb in this case would be "turn".


----------



## Joe Pitz (Jul 14, 2015)

Thanks Robert,  I was not aware of that.  

Joe


----------



## wa5cab (Jul 15, 2015)

That's OK.  It's a fairly common mistake.  "Mill" is used as either a verb or a noun.  Why "Lathe" isn't, I have no idea.  I had a guy who came to work for me as an ME in the early 80's.  He was working on a degree in Architecture, which he did finish.  He worked for me either directly or indirectly until 1999 and as far as I can remember, in 1999 he would still tell someone to lathe this down to so and so dimensions.


----------



## hvontres (Jul 15, 2015)

I guess another Inconsistency in the English language, after all, you:

- hammer with a hammer
- drill with a drill
- saw with a saw
- mill with a mill
- plane with a plane

and sometimes knurl with a pipe wrench.... 
but that is another discussion all together


----------



## Joe Pitz (Jul 15, 2015)

Thanks Robert, interesting story.  

Henry, knurl with a pipe wrench,  this I have to to see 

I am sure Tom Lipton would have something to say about that.  

Joe


----------



## wa5cab (Jul 15, 2015)

Yeah, seems that you ought to be able to lathe.  

I can see knurling with a pipe wrench.


----------



## hvontres (Jul 15, 2015)

Joe Pitz said:


> Thanks Robert, interesting story.
> 
> Henry, knurl with a pipe wrench,  this I have to to see
> 
> ...


Actually, I think I heard of that from Keith Fenner, while discussing what customers had done to parts prior to coming into his shop


----------

