# Is This South Bend Worth $1000?



## Srbowles (Feb 14, 2018)

For you folks that know some stuff about the South Bend... Can you tell from the pictures if this is worth $1000? All I know is it’s a 13” x 60”.  From the catalog number it appears to have been produced in 1956.  Any advice or assistance would be greatly appreciated.


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## jwmay (Feb 14, 2018)

To me it is.  But what do I know?


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## woodchucker (Feb 14, 2018)

It all depends on the condition of the ways , cross slide, gearbox and spindle.
If it's still tight, not abused, yes 1k is a good price. If it has a 3jaw and 4 jaw plus collets  it would be a good deal..


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## Silverbullet (Feb 14, 2018)

Can you run it ?  If not I guess try wiggling the cross slide , compound . Lift up on the chuck it shouldn't have any play feelable movement. Ck the wear on ways ,, thumbnail top of vee . Look at the lead screw the gears . Engage the levers Ck for slop . Look to see if it's been oiled regularly there should be some present everywhere. I've seen worse LATHES for more money.


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## tq60 (Feb 15, 2018)

Chuck keys in...Red flag to indicate owner not good caretaker.

Has taper and good size 3 phase motor.

Look at getting a good vfd.

We used Allen bradley 13xx series on ours and modified the drum switch to control it.

We also added a foot bar for stop so we did not need to reach over the work.

If it can be powered up run it through all speeds and listen. 

If can't be run due to owner not having 3 phase then inspect very carefully and check for slop.

Regardless take a 2 X 4 and dial indicator to pry on the chuck to check for slop.

Take a wad of 20 dollar bills as they look like more and place 600 in one pocket and the rest in the other and start offer by offering the 600 and see where you get.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk


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## derf (Feb 15, 2018)

I have the twin to that lathe, built in '57. I paid $1000 for it 25 yrs. ago.....best money I ever spent.


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## Srbowles (Feb 15, 2018)

woodchucker said:


> It all depends on the condition of the ways , cross slide, gearbox and spindle.
> If it's still tight, not abused, yes 1k is a good price. If it has a 3jaw and 4 jaw plus collets  it would be a good deal..


Okay, thank you for your input. I believe the guy only had the three-jaw.


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## Srbowles (Feb 15, 2018)

Silverbullet said:


> Can you run it ?  If not I guess try wiggling the cross slide , compound . Lift up on the chuck it shouldn't have any play feelable movement. Ck the wear on ways ,, thumbnail top of vee . Look at the lead screw the gears . Engage the levers Ck for slop . Look to see if it's been oiled regularly there should be some present everywhere. I've seen worse LATHES for more money.


Silverbullet - thank you for your response. I have not yet seen the lathe in person yet, but the items you have listed here look like good check points.


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## Srbowles (Feb 15, 2018)

tq60 said:


> Chuck keys in...Red flag to indicate owner not good caretaker.
> 
> Has taper and good size 3 phase motor.
> 
> ...


Tq60 - Thanks for responding.  Wow, yeah, I noticed the key chuck in as well.  Just from what I have read here and other places this is a big no no. Certainly shouldn’t be a storage place anyway. I would have to get a VFD for sure.  The foot bar stop switch really makes good sense. I spoke to the fellow on the phone about this and he do not have it powered yet, but said he could and would send me a video. I like your idea about taking the dial indicator.  Thanks again for the advice.  The folks here on the forum are awesome with suggestions.  Great bunch of people!


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## Srbowles (Feb 15, 2018)

derf said:


> I have the twin to that lathe, built in '57. I paid $1000 for it 25 yrs. ago.....best money I ever spent.


Wow!  What I understand these South Bends just go and go.  Thank you for your input.


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## FOMOGO (Feb 15, 2018)

Most of the tooling (lantern type) will end up setting on your shelf. Put the live center in the tail stock and check for run out. The price isn't bad, and can possibly be had for less. All good info above. Hope it works out for you. Mike


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## Srbowles (Feb 15, 2018)

FOMOGO said:


> Most of the tooling (lantern type) will end up setting on your shelf. Put the live center in the tail stock and check for run out. The price isn't bad, and can possibly be had for less. All good info above. Hope it works out for you. Mike


Thanks for the advice Mike!  The owner sounded pretty firm about $1000.  I just wanted to check with you guys on this to see if it was an okay deal or not. Good day.


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## GK1918 (Feb 15, 2018)

Oh chuck key probably to show its got one.   1000 bucks  have you priced a set of tires for a F350 thats going to be all 
worn out in a few yrs????    got it


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## projectnut (Feb 15, 2018)

As mentioned the key is probably in the chuck just to show it has one.  I doubt anyone would be running the machine with the tool holders lying in the chip tray on a rag, the key in the drill chuck, and the cover open on the gear train.  It's more of an advertising shot to show what comes with the machine than a shot of it in the working mode.  

Also I doubt the owner would be trying to use it when setting on a pair of dollies.  Then again that may be a safety mechanism.  As it slowly walks across the room it eventually unplugs itself.


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## Srbowles (Feb 15, 2018)

projectnut said:


> As mentioned the key is probably in the chuck just to show it has one.  I doubt anyone would be running the machine with the tool holders lying in the chip tray on a rag, the key in the drill chuck, and the cover open on the gear train.  It's more of an advertising shot to show what comes with the machine than a shot of it in the working mode.
> 
> Also I doubt the owner would be trying to use it when setting on a pair of dollies.  Then again that may be a safety mechanism.  As it slowly walks across the room it eventually unplugs itself.


Thanks projectnut - The owner said that he picked it up with a bunch of other equipment and he was going to restore it but simply does not have enough time to do that. He seems to be up front on everything.  He even said he would help me install a VFD for 120V.  Since he has received it he has not had it hooked up and running yet.  I think you are probably correct to say that the chuck key is in place to show that it has one.


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## Srbowles (Feb 15, 2018)

GK1918 said:


> Oh chuck key probably to show its got one.   1000 bucks  have you priced a set of tires for a F350 thats going to be all
> worn out in a few yrs????    got it


Right.  The lathe will last much longer...


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## Silverbullet (Feb 15, 2018)

You won't lose money. Ck parts on eBay , the taper attachments are $750. If they do sell one for that money. If your going looking for a used machine to be like new you'll never buy one. You as the machinist need to learn how to make it hold the accuracy you need. In my early years of apprenticeship I had to run machines from flatbelt drive era. You could wiggle the slides and lots of slop. I used extra clamps and indicators to watch every movement. But I made tolerances with totally worn out machine because it was the only one we had for the job. Looking at the pictures I see no reason unless it's slop is in the gibs  . To not look at it. There was one near me cheaper but I'm not able to buy really anything anymore .


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## Srbowles (Feb 15, 2018)

Silverbullet said:


> You won't lose money. Ck parts on eBay , the taper attachments are $750. If they do sell one for that money. If your going looking for a used machine to be like new you'll never buy one. You as the machinist need to learn how to make it hold the accuracy you need. In my early years of apprenticeship I had to run machines from flatbelt drive era. You could wiggle the slides and lots of slop. I used extra clamps and indicators to watch every movement. But I made tolerances with totally worn out machine because it was the only one we had for the job. Looking at the pictures I see no reason unless it's slop is in the gibs  . To not look at it. There was one near me cheaper but I'm not able to buy really anything anymore .


Thanks Silverbullet!


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## projectnut (Feb 15, 2018)

Srbowles said:


> Tq60 - Thanks for responding.  Wow, yeah, I noticed the key chuck in as well.  Just from what I have read here and other places this is a big no no. Certainly shouldn’t be a storage place anyway. I would have to get a VFD for sure.  The foot bar stop switch really makes good sense. I spoke to the fellow on the phone about this and he do not have it powered yet, but said he could and would send me a video. I like your idea about taking the dial indicator.  Thanks again for the advice.  The folks here on the forum are awesome with suggestions.  Great bunch of people!





Silverbullet said:


> You won't lose money. Ck parts on eBay , the taper attachments are $750. If they do sell one for that money. If your going looking for a used machine to be like new you'll never buy one. You as the machinist need to learn how to make it hold the accuracy you need. In my early years of apprenticeship I had to run machines from flatbelt drive era. You could wiggle the slides and lots of slop. I used extra clamps and indicators to watch every movement. But I made tolerances with totally worn out machine because it was the only one we had for the job. Looking at the pictures I see no reason unless it's slop is in the gibs  . To not look at it. There was one near me cheaper but I'm not able to buy really anything anymore .



Just a note of caution when looking at prices on eBay.  The majority of the asking prices for South Bend taper attachments may be in the $750.00 and up range.  However if you look at the "Sold" listings the majority go for $300.00 to $500.00.  There are a few that had OBO (or best offer) along with the asking price.  Most sold, but since they sold for the best offer you really don't know what the final price was.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Feb 15, 2018)

to be honest, by the time people come on here and ask "is it worth it", it's already gone. I would have been in my car to the trailer rental yard the moment that popped up on CL. I personally wouldn't dicker with the price, it's more than fair and you'll only p!$$ the seller off if you try offering $600.


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## MikeInOr (Feb 15, 2018)

I just paid $1250 for a South Bend 13" x 6' bed in good shape and think I got a killer deal without any tooling.  I really doubt the lathe is still available!


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## Uncle Buck (Feb 15, 2018)

I think a very good deal unless it is totally shot. I would probably take a chance on it myself though.


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## amuller (Feb 15, 2018)

"he do not have it powered yet"   Does this mean the seller is a dealer or a flipper, not really the previous owner?  Good price for a good lathe if not worn out or neglected.  But is it really the right size for the work you want to do?  Do you have room for it?  And the ability to move it?


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## Glenn Brooks (Feb 15, 2018)

I’ve found a simple way to estimate the condition of a lathe is to inspect the bottom of the tailstock.  If the bearing surface of the tailstock with the bed is notched and worn, you can be sure the ways in front of the chuck are deeply worn also. Same with wear on the jaws of the chuck.  Old lathes wear out on all the parts equally. Not just one or two components.  If this one looks clean, likely the ways and drive chain are clean also.

$1000 is a very good price for this size lathe in my neck of the woods- unheard of, actually.

Glenn


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## Srbowles (Feb 15, 2018)

Just found this posted 23 mins. ago.  Choices, choices..   

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/146176142730513


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## amuller (Feb 15, 2018)

Wow!


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## richl (Feb 15, 2018)

Id.take a drive and get.the Bridgeport before someone else does.
In the same trip pickup the lathe and you got 2 machines for an awesome price!!!


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## projectnut (Feb 15, 2018)

I doubt that the shop will actually give it away or  sell it for $1.00.  This was an advertising trick used by numerous craigslist sellers.  For a while in our area nearly 50% of the listings in the tools section had a similar headline.  All the sellers were trying to do is get your attention.  When you called they gave you the real asking price.  In this case if the mill runs and the and the CNC portion works they'll probably get north of $2,000.00.  If the CNC doesn't work I would guess it will be a $1,000.00 machine.

On the other hand it never hurts to call and ask.  On the off change they are really giving it away it could be a nice addition to your shop.  Just don't be too disappointed if they say either it's already gone, or the add was a mistake and they really want $XXX.XX for it.

I doubt the add is placed by a dealer.  Worst case they would part it out and make more money than they would selling the machine in one piece.  If it's a flipper it could be they bought the machine as part of a "lot".  They didn't really want it, so now it's on the market.  I've bought a couple machines from people who bought a "lot" at an auction.  In both cases they knew I was looking for the machines they had bought.  They got the part of the "lot"  they really wanted, and I got two excellent machines at dirt cheap prices.


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## tq60 (Feb 15, 2018)

Srbowles said:


> projectnut said:
> 
> 
> > As mentioned the key is probably in the chuck just to show it has one. I doubt anyone would be running the machine with the tool holders lying in the chip tray on a rag, the key in the drill chuck, and the cover open on the gear train. It's more of an advertising shot to show what comes with the machine than a shot of it in the working mode.
> ...


The motor tag indicates larger than 1 hp.

Stick with 240 vac equipment and avoid voltage converting types as well as the Chinese branded units.

We prefer Allen bradley and other have theirs so brand does not really matter that much.

But regardless of brand download the manual before buying to verify first that it will work with single phase supply then look for a table that shows which unit to use for your application. 

Some need to be De - rated for single phase while others may not work at all or bi in alarm.

After that read the installation and configuration instructions to be sure you can figure it out.

Ours has a 3 wire control option that has run and reverse as 2 wires and stop as third.

The Drum Switch Has 3 Sets Of Contacts So Slight Mod To Insure ONE Set ALWAYS makes first and used for stop and the operation is just like factory.

A pot is located elsewhere for speed control.

Made a frame that is mounted to the bolts for the chip tray and everything (vfd in box, for bar and pot main power switch) all are mounted to frame so the complete lathe is stock other than longer bolts to support frame and modified drum switch.

Can do MPR minutes per revolution without back gear via vfd.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk


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## Srbowles (Feb 15, 2018)

Well, thanks to you folks for your guidance on this machine.  I purchased it tonight.  The guy I bought it in a “lot” of two South Bends and two mills. He did hook it up with a VFD and it sounded great!  It is a flat belt drive with a 1-1/2 HP motor.  After reading the comments above and speaking to the seller in person, I decided not to insult him with a lower amount.  He said he would even deliver to me at no cost and I’m 45 minutes away from him.  He said the machines that he bought came from a county auction selling school related items.  I think when he purchased the “lot” he just ended up with more than he could handle at one time plus the machines really filled up his garage.

Thanks again to all that gave input!  You guys are awesome!


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## Srbowles (Feb 15, 2018)

tq60 said:


> The motor tag indicates larger than 1 hp.
> 
> Stick with 240 vac equipment and avoid voltage converting types as well as the Chinese branded units.
> 
> ...


Thank you TQ60 for your good advice!


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## MikeInOr (Feb 16, 2018)

projectnut said:


> I doubt that the shop will actually give it away or  sell it for $1.00.



Several years ago there was a Craigslist add for a Powermatic 12" cabinet saw for $1.  My father called on the add and went to look at the saw.  It was in bad shape.  He asked the guy how much he wanted for it... $1.  The guy even loaded it onto my fathers trailer with a fork lift for him.  I still have that saw but it looks a darn bit prettier these days.

Pretty much every other add I have seen listing for $1... has been more "Come make me an offer".


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## Uncle Buck (Feb 16, 2018)

I think you made out very well. I doubt I would have lowballed him either. Not having to handle moving it is worth $200 if you ask me.


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## Srbowles (Feb 16, 2018)

Uncle Buck said:


> I think you made out very well. I doubt I would have lowballed him either. Not having to handle moving it is worth $200 if you ask me.


Thank you Uncle Buck!  You got that right on the moving.  He doesn’t know it but I am going to slip him some cash for the move. He just volunteered to do that because I guess like a lot of you folks here on hobby-machinist are just good decent people.


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## projectnut (Feb 16, 2018)

Glad to hear you made the purchase.  I think you'll be able to enjoy it for many years to come.  When I purchased my Bridgeport I was going to try to bargain for a lower price, but when the owner offered "free delivery and setup" I didn't have the heart.  A similar thing happened when I bought my Sheldon lathe.  The owner was asking about the average price I'd seen on several other machines.  When I found it was rebuilt including regrinding the ways, and had a ton of extras, I decided to keep quiet.


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## MikeInOr (Feb 16, 2018)

Wow, I didn't think that South Bend would last that long!  Congratulations!


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## amuller (Feb 16, 2018)

Not a few Craigslist adds are in the "just want it out of the garage" category.  Other "too good to be true" adds are from scammers collecting information.  Some are just taking a flier with an inflated price.  I think every add has to be considered individually.


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