# Dumb things you own, and never use



## dewbane

I've been making some parts on the lathe by painting on a layer of Dykem, and scratching out some lines with digital calipers. Twiddling the calipers to an exact measurement is kind of tedious, so I began to contemplate using my gauge blocks. I COULD do that, but it seems like a silly use of my time, wringing them together, using them to set the caliper, all so I can scratch some approximate marks that are like 0.003" thick. For one thing, I would have to dig them out from the very bottom of a storage tote. Where I apparently put them for posterior. Uh. Posterity.


This made me realize that I have NEVER used my gauge blocks for ANYTHING. I have no use for them. I just bought a set, because the history of gauge blocks is pretty cool. Johansson and Henry Ford and all that. Even my cheap B set is accurate to millionths of an inch. It's kind of insane. Plus This Old Tony uses them for such and stuff. I think.

So that got me thinking about dumb things I own, and never use. I had a surface plate that I had never actually used for any metrology. One day, I decided to use it as a lapping plate for something. Then I did some reading about why that's a horrifying and evil thing to do, and I went out and bought a new, bigger, better surface plate, complete with a stand. I made a fancy velvet-lined wooden cover for it, and I used my vinyl cutter to print 'METROLOGY USE ONLY" on the cover. The top looks moldy, because the roof started leaking on it, and it got moldy. (At least all the recycled junk pile materials were essentially free.)




I have never had that cover off. I have no real use for the thing. Any use I might have for the thing would be served perfectly well by the smaller, cheaper, less ridiculous, but still ridiculous plate I have designated for flattening and sharpening use only.


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## Jim F

Let's see, SB9C, Grizzly G0463, H bandsaw, chop saw, lots of layout tool, 12x12x4 DoAll surface plate, lots more sitting idle.......


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## wachuko

This…


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## K30

E-Torx sockets, and power steering pully puller kit


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## bollie7

dewbane said:


> I've been making some parts on the lathe by painting on a layer of Dykem, and scratching out some lines with digital calipers. Twiddling the calipers to an exact measurement is kind of tedious, so I began to contemplate using my gauge blocks. I COULD do that, but it seems like a silly use of my time, wringing them together, using them to set the caliper, all so I can scratch some approximate marks that are like 0.003" thick. For one thing, I would have to dig them out from the very bottom of a storage tote. Where I apparently put them for posterior. Uh. Posterity.
> View attachment 419445
> 
> This made me realize that I have NEVER used my gauge blocks for ANYTHING. I have no use for them. I just bought a set, because the history of gauge blocks is pretty cool. Johansson and Henry Ford and all that. Even my cheap B set is accurate to millionths of an inch. It's kind of insane. Plus This Old Tony uses them for such and stuff. I think.
> 
> So that got me thinking about dumb things I own, and never use. I had a surface plate that I had never actually used for any metrology. One day, I decided to use it as a lapping plate for something. Then I did some reading about why that's a horrifying and evil thing to do, and I went out and bought a new, bigger, better surface plate, complete with a stand. I made a fancy velvet-lined wooden cover for it, and I used my vinyl cutter to print 'METROLOGY USE ONLY" on the cover. The top looks moldy, because the roof started leaking on it, and it got moldy. (At least all the recycled junk pile materials were essentially free.)
> 
> View attachment 419446
> View attachment 419447
> 
> I have never had that cover off. I have no real use for the thing. Any use I might have for the thing would be served perfectly well by the smaller, cheaper, less ridiculous, but still ridiculous plate I have designated for flattening and sharpening use only.
> View attachment 419448


Could always use your surface plate as a marking out plate (shock horror) If you are a hobbyist (which I assume you are) I doubt you would ever use it enough to worry about wear on it. So imho just use it. 
One thing we all know for sure - you wont be taking it with you to that big old machine shop in the sky. 
I've got a fair bit of various bits of stock that I've acquired over the years and some I've had for 30 + years. Saving it all in case I need it for an important job someday and in doing so, always trying to scrounge something else in order to not use the "good" stuff. 
I turn 64 in a few weeks and within the last 12 months I've realised (or maybe finally accepted) that every job is important and rather than hoarding stuff I now just use it. 
Enjoy your hobby.
Peter


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## John O

10MM sockets


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## Bone Head

I'll assume the OP is referring to things he's accumulated for machining.  In light of that I can forego my listing of motorcycles and parts, yard care stuff, old tools and reference manuals (out of date now) and a wheelbarrow of the first dirt invented from when I worked in Quality.
Thus saving the forum servers from crashing.


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## Just for fun

Everything I own is dumb..... Lots of things I don't use though, 1" drive socket set, abrasive chop saw, dual flow argon regulator and the list goes on.


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## JPMacG

Interesting...   I use gauge blocks and pin gauges often.  They are handy for setups.    My vote for useless tools is for layout calipers.  I have a complete set of Brown & Sharpe layout calipers in beautiful condition.  I like to look at them.  Then I put them back in their cigar box for another year.


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## great white

For tools?

Only tools I’ve ever bought that were “dumb” were the tools with manufacturing defects. Only ones that come to mind is a drill press xy table (import) that had core shift and the top slide wasn’t square to the base and a sheet metal cutter (import) that had the cutter wheel spaced too far from the toothed wheel so its more of a “creaser” than a “cutter”.

Every other tool I‘ve ever bought has a use, even if it was only a one time use. things like the clutch align tool, fuel line disconnects, etc were one time use and are waiting in my box in case I ever have a need for them again.


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## MrWhoopee

I find that my surface plate is excellent for staging photos on. I also do some layout on it, once in a great while use it for "inspection". I ordered a tube coping tool, the job was done by the time it arrived. Starrett small rule set I bought when an apprentice 40 years ago, actually used it for the first time recently.


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## Eyerelief

Always working on my own vehicles, I tried to justify buying any tool I needed to do the job right by saying "It's still cheaper and as good or better than paying someone else to do it, and I get a tool".  I tried that with my machining tools, and..................not so much.  Having trouble getting a good finish on a 1.125" hole in really hard steel, I bought a used Precise Jig Grinder:


Slow process, but it worked flawlessly, putting me within a .0005" of the target.  Haven't touched it since.  Well, stubbed my toe on the metal case a half dozen times if that counts.  It was in near new condition and I bought it right ($575) because the variable power supply was not operable.  Turned out to be a wire not attached to the on off switch.  I'm guessing the wire came off early in its life. Don't know why I don't get rid of it, but it never seems to make my short list.  "Some day I'm gonna have a use for this thing I just know it...."


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## homebrewed

John O said:


> 10MM sockets


Oho!
You don't own a VW.  I think 90% of the fasteners in my WV Golf need either a 10 or 13 mm socket.


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## John O

homebrewed said:


> Oho!
> You don't own a VW.  I think 90% of the fasteners in my WV Golf need either a 10 or 13 mm socket.


Only Corvairs...9/16 for most


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## benmychree

JPMacG said:


> Interesting...   I use gauge blocks and pin gauges often.  They are handy for setups.    My vote for useless tools is for layout calipers.  I have a complete set of Brown & Sharpe layout calipers in beautiful condition.  I like to look at them.  Then I put them back in their cigar box for another year.


I don't find "layout calipers" in any B&S catalog: to what are you referring?


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## WobblyHand

I'm going to add a Harbor Freight xy drill press vise to this list.  One of the worst pieces of junk I have ever owned.  Terrible backlash, worse screws, non parallel jaws, axes are not square, just an utter waste of material.  I have had it for several years now and just can't make myself use it at all.  It takes up a lot of precious shelf space.  

I was so fed up with it I tossed it in the trash four days ago.  Just today I thought of a possible use of some of the material in the vise.  Tomorrow I will  fish it out of the trash and cut up some of the cast iron.  I do not have high hopes for the quality of the cast iron, but if it works, then the vise was not a total waste of money.  If it doesn't work out, I will still cut it up then toss the rest.


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## JPMacG

benmychree said:


> I don't find "layout calipers" in any B&S catalog: to what are you referring?


These:  








						McMaster-Carr
					

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




					www.mcmaster.com
				




B&S might call them something else, or maybe they no longer carry them.  Mine are at least 20 years old.


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## Eyerelief

WobblyHand said:


> I'm going to add a Harbor Freight xy drill press vise to this list.


I'm right there with you.  Never could get mine to work correctly.  Finally did find a good use for it tho.  With its wide base, I can set it on the work bench and hold parts I am heating or welding, normally without even clamping it down.  Yes, I am abusing it somewhat, but it is convenient


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## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> I'm going to add a Harbor Freight xy drill press vise to this list.  One of the worst pieces of junk I have ever owned.  Terrible backlash, worse screws, non parallel jaws, axes are not square, just an utter waste of material.  I have had it for several years now and just can't make myself use it at all.  It takes up a lot of precious shelf space.
> 
> I was so fed up with it I tossed it in the trash four days ago.  Just today I thought of a possible use of some of the material in the vise.  Tomorrow I will  fish it out of the trash and cut up some of the cast iron.  I do not have high hopes for the quality of the cast iron, but if it works, then the vise was not a total waste of money.  If it doesn't work out, I will still cut it up then toss the rest.


Like this one?  After years stashed in a corner… made it work for the Walker-Turner DP… At one time I thought about getting rid of it…


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## ChazzC

John O said:


> 10MM sockets


Use them all the time on 6mm nuts.


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## erikmannie

I don’t use my *metric* metrology equipment very much.

Also, a good percentage of the Chinese metrology equipment that I bought is so junky (the Shars inside & digital electric outside micrometers are a good example) that I won’t ever use it.


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## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> Like this one?  After years stashed in a corner… made it work for the Walker-Turner DP… At one time I thought about getting rid of it…
> 
> View attachment 419509
> 
> 
> View attachment 419511


Next size up, I think.  Yours looks better made!  And you put some pretty lipstick on yours.  
Mine is pretty much a pig, with or without lipstick.


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## wachuko

WobblyHand said:


> Next size up, I think.  Yours looks better made!  And you put some pretty lipstick on yours.
> Mine is pretty much a pig, with or without lipstick.


When I got it, this has to be more than 10-15 years ago... I did not know about gibs, backslash, etc... nor how to get rid of the play... I was as green as they come...  Kid you not... it wasn't until this January that I ran into it when moving stuff around in the garage... 

Adjusted everything, changed a few bolts... do not get me wrong, it is still carp, but it is working carp... I have been using it regularly now... I would not try to make a slot with it, but for just drilling stuff, sure, works fine.


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## ChazzC

Swivel base from my milling vise at least it’s staying clean):


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## DavidR8

I sold my surface plate on the weekend. Three years of ownership and not once did I use it.


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## WobblyHand

DavidR8 said:


> I sold my surface plate on the weekend. Three years of ownership and not once did I use it.


Besides leveling my level, (yeah, really calibrating the level) I really haven't used my little surface plate.  Glad I only got a small one.  Got it on a day when there was free freight, so not out much money at all.


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## silence dogood

Not sure if this is the right place, but here goes. I had two basically useless router shapers that were basically given to me. One was a HF model 91130 shaper that they don't sell anymore (which is good). The cutting part of the shaper was in a cup like thing, that was impossible to keep clear of wood chips and almost impossible to change bits. That's why the motor was fried. However, the base and the table were decent. The other was a Black & Decker SR650 shaper that was built on a flimsy plastic base. The table was not hot either. It did have a nice height adjustment and it was easy to change bits. Took the motor out of the HF and with a bit of machining mounted the BK motor with its height adjustment. Now have a pretty good wood shaper that actually works.


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## mmcmdl

Too much to list . Being a machinist / tool maker for 28 years and then moving over to mechanical left me with many precision tools never to see the light of day again .


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## mmcmdl

DavidR8 said:


> I sold my surface plate on the weekend. Three years of ownership and not once did I use it.


Any flat surface in my places are catch alls for more junk .


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## DavidR8

mmcmdl said:


> Any flat surface in my places are catch alls for more junk .


Mine too, and with only 300 sq ft of floor space I just can't afford to have stuff I don't use.


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## RJSakowski

ChazzC said:


> Swivel base from my milling vise at least it’s staying clean):
> 
> View attachment 419515


My swivel base has never been used.  It is kind of redundant on a CNC mill.  Mine isn't sitting on plastic though.


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## MrWhoopee

ChazzC said:


> Swivel base from my milling vise at least it’s staying clean):
> 
> View attachment 419515


I actually mounted mine recently, looked like it had never been used. Doing some parts that required the vise oriented both ways, it's been quite convenient. I set it as close as possible to 90° when I first indicated it, it's made it fast to switch and indicate.


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## Eyerelief

MrWhoopee said:


> I actually mounted mine recently, looked like it had never been used. Doing some parts that required the vise oriented both ways, it's been quite convenient. I set it as close as possible to 90° when I first indicated it, it's made it fast to switch and indicate.


I may be silly but I really like mine.  I custom made the vise keys so that there was zero play when they sit in the slots on the table.  This way, if I pull the vise off the table, it is still pretty well trammed in when remounted.  I must admit tho, that a Kurt 6" swivel below a Kurt 6" vise isn't sumthin you want to be yankin off the table at every whim.  I'm sure these things are gaining weight just sitting there.


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## mmcmdl

I can't believe how a swivel base could not be a useful item . Maybe not for a cnc , but for a manual mill ? Maybe most don't cut angles ? The swivel base on the Kurt never comes off the BP in at work , and gets used quite often , but we have to duplicate parts to the prints as they are interchangeable to the machines .


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## pontiac428

The swivel base is about as handy as a collet block for some situations, but at what cost?  I so much prefer to mount the vise rigid, planar, and square.  I can try for a sine bar or angle gauges when I need an angle.  The swivel base is nothing more than an element of decoupling from the flatness, squareness, and planarity of the table and the vise.


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## 7milesup

DavidR8 said:


> I sold my surface plate on the weekend. Three years of ownership and not once did I use it.


Can't believe you got rid of a perfectly good flat surface (plate) to pile things on.  Mine has an assortment of parts to hold a dial indicator, a couple of Mitutoyo height gages, a piece of tig welding rod, a pencil, a couple of bolts, a piece of tungsten, and some dust.


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## dewbane

Just for fun said:


> Everything I own is dumb..... Lots of things I don't use though, 1" drive socket set, abrasive chop saw, dual flow argon regulator and the list goes on.


I should have put the chop saw on the list. I barely use it, and I don't like using it. It's noisy, it's messy, and it's slow. It does make straighter cuts than my bandsaw, but at such cost in misery and dust going everywhere.


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## dewbane

WobblyHand said:


> I'm going to add a Harbor Freight xy drill press vise to this list.


I think mine came from Lee Valley. I used it a few times on my drill press. It was pretty useless before I had a mill, and now, well, cutting it up for cast iron isn't a bad idea. I'm glad you thought to do that with yours before you actually chucked it. I had a weird Grizzly "premium" 5" milling vise with a "no lift jaw" that lifted relentlessly. I finally drank enough tequila to convince myself to buy a real Kurt DX4, and I never looked back. I love the Kurt! I threw the Grizzly in the scrap pile and turned it in at the recycler. Then a few days later, I saw some project where somebody made something cool out of cast iron salvaged from something like that. Well crap! It was perfectly good cast iron, and I got like two bucks for the thing.

Along these lines, another useless Item I have is a swivel vise. In theory, you could put work in and set it to a precise angle for machining. In practice, I'm not even sure where the thing is. I threw it in a dusty corner somewhere after I bought it, and never looked at it again. (I bought it with a gift card from somewhere. At least that one didn't cost me cash.)


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## DavidR8

7milesup said:


> Can't believe you got rid of a perfectly good flat surface (plate) to pile things on.  Mine has an assortment of parts to hold a dial indicator, a couple of Mitutoyo height gages, a piece of tig welding rod, a pencil, a couple of bolts, a piece of tungsten, and some dust.


MIne had a height gauge, two machinist squares, the headlight from my Honda 650, a length of threaded rod and some Velcro ties. Oh and a notepad. Sheesh...the top of the bench is worse.


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## Bi11Hudson

All in all (4 pages worth) a fascinating read. To put things somewhat in perspective, I do some metal working. But I also do framing carpentry on an old house (1887), some "stick it together" welding, building small models(trains), and am was professionally a mill and marine electrician, from age 18. The end result is I have trouble maneuvering around tools and stock *now* with a walker. In most cases, if I had a specialty job, I would outright purchase the special tooling needed. Or like the pilot shaft for a Ford 300-6, make it. And never throw anything out, no matter how trivial. What it comes down to is "*I would much rather to have something and not need it, than to need something and not have it.*" Almost everything I have piled up in corners and on shelves has been used at least once and I may need it again some day.

There are a few exceptions; a set of guage blocks, a sine bar and vise, a set of "precision angle" standards, things of that nature. I may never need any of them but they *take up so little space relative to stuff I do use*, I just let them get covered up. And should the need arise (unlikely), they are here, just covered up. There are a few archaic tools that I don't *normally* use, hand drills and saws and the like. But on those rare occasions where I need to make a small hole in a wooden stick, I can do it at my desk without having my "shop" in the house.

I will concede that I don't do precision machine work. I do try to make parts as precision as possible, but it's mostly repair work where tolerances are sort of loose anyway. The most precision work I do is to make model locomotive frames, cutting axle slots and the like. But like my trains, much of my precision tooling was bought off eBay and other "discount" sites for used pre-owned hardware. Salvage houses for esoteric devices in debatable condition. . . The angle blocks were corroded, I cleaned them up except a few that are badly corroded. But if they measure a 30 degree angle plus or minus 30 seconds, they are usable. 

The bottom line is they *didn't cost very much and work for what I do*. Space I have, money I don't. My work space is sort of "cobbled" together, an old house next door to the residence and a homade storage shed that I built to resemble a barn. (24X32) If I don't need it this year, I might next year. And likely have it around somewhere.

.


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## pontiac428

Here's a tool that I thought I had to have but never used once- Atlas lathe milling attachment.  Might be a good idea if I was on a deserted island with only items that could be ordered from the 1940 Atlas Tool catalog or some such craziness and had to build a boat to survive.  That hasn't happened either.


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## WobblyHand

DavidR8 said:


> Mine too, and with only 300 sq ft of floor space I just can't afford to have stuff I don't use.


I know exactly how you feel.  Have a similar small area.  It's a challenge to use it efficiently.  If things don't go back to where they belong it's hard to work there.  Really enforces a tidying influence.  If ignored, total chaos ensues.


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## WobblyHand

wachuko said:


> When I got it, this has to be more than 10-15 years ago... I did not know about gibs, backslash, etc... nor how to get rid of the play... I was as green as they come...  Kid you not... it wasn't until this January that I ran into it when moving stuff around in the garage...
> 
> Adjusted everything, changed a few bolts... do not get me wrong, it is still carp, but it is working carp... I have been using it regularly now... I would not try to make a slot with it, but for just drilling stuff, sure, works fine.


I tried some of the improvements that I found online, but the vise remained subpar.  Best hope I have for it now is to repurpose the raw material.  Of course, I now have to go dumpster diving to get it out of the trash bin.  Wished I had thought of the reuse BEFORE I tossed it in the bottom of the bin!  Today's task is to retrieve it.

At least it's not raining.  We had 3-1/2" of rain in the past two days.


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## RJSakowski

I object to the adjective "dumb".  There may have been a few minor things in the past that looked like a good idea but didn't work out.  They most likely got used once or twice though.  There are things that I "inherited" from my ex that I have never used.  Mostly stuff from a blacksmith shop.  A set of swage blocks comes to mind. 

I did buy a 30 ton punch press that I intended to make some progressive dies for to make punched parts for a product that I made.  The problem is that there is a lot of effort that goes into making a set of progressive dies and at the volume of production I had, I couldn't justify that amount of effort.  So the press sits behind one of my buildings.  I did make a rotary phase converter for running the 3 hp motor on it.  Sadly, that has never been used either.  However, neither are dumb things.


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## tq60

We have many, shop is cluttered but when you get rid of it you need it.

One example is we picked up somewhere some time ago a little box shaped thing, a small chassis with a cut board containing 10 small 4P2P relays and thought it could be handy.

Many years go by and cleaning and removing clutter we found it, decided to toss it as we likely had no use for it.

An hour later dug it out and put it on a shelf.

A couple months pass and we stumble on a pump for another project that we needed to control via some relays...ta-da grab the thing.

Removed the logic chips and built an interface to convert 24 vac signals to the transistor input and good to go...

Clutter can be handy but local thrift stores get a box every couple weeks...

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


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## Janderso

K30 said:


> E-Torx sockets, and power steering pully puller kit


Yeah my auto repair days are over.
I remember that kit.


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## C-Bag

wachuko said:


> This…
> 
> View attachment 419450


Funny how one man’s useless is another’s can’t do without. I had literally hundreds of holes to thread and this was my lifesaver. Never broke a tap again. But after I got my UniDrill with its fantastic Z I could do the tapping in the DP so the tapping machine has been idle but it had a good 5yr run.

While I don’t use my big surface plate all the time, I do use my small one every week. And I would never be able to get rid of the  18x24. Gauge blocks are tempting but I know they would probably never get used. While not exactly a precision setup, the HF XY vice was very handy for the DP until the UniDrill came in and I mounted my XY rotary table to it as it could handle the size and Z no problem. Luckily I was able to pass on the HF xy to a fellow H-M member and it’s found a home on one of his 3 DP’s.


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## ChazzC

RJSakowski said:


> My swivel base has never been used.  It is kind of redundant on a CNC mill.  Mine isn't sitting on plastic though.


Inside a ZipLock Baggie, lightly oiled and with a ZeRust tab.


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## WobblyHand

C-Bag said:


> While not exactly a precision setup, the HF XY vice was very handy for the DP until the UniDrill came in and I mounted my XY rotary table to it as it could handle the size and Z no problem. Luckily I was able to pass on the HF xy to a fellow H-M member and it’s found a home on one of his 3 DP’s.


My HF xy vise was a bit too large for my small DP.  It sort of worked, but precision is not one of its attributes.  Honestly, it was better than nothing, but not _that_ much better than nothing.  The quality and construction is awful.  It really is a waste of raw material.  Regret wasting my money on it.

Retrieved the sucker from the trash can and felt like the _albatross_ was back.  I'll have to cut it up, it just takes up too much room in my small work space.  With some luck, I can repurpose the cast iron.  If the iron's full of hard crap, going to have to scrap the whole thing.  Life is too short to carry this junk around forever.


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## BGHansen

Too many things to list.  If I started going through stuff in my shop I'd have a more comprehensive list.  Here are a few off the top of my head.  Naturally, usefulness or uselessness depends on your type of projects:

1)  5" sine bar.  I used it once to set an angle for a project in a vise on the mill.  The gauge blocks and sine bar are pretty much dust collectors now; I use a protractor or angle gauge blocks.

2)  Centering scope.  I don't recall the brand of mine, it is not a Skoal.  Mine has one line, not a crosshair.  For set up, you bring the scope down to 1" from the target and rotate the scope to the left.  Move the table so the crosshair line is on the mark.  Then turn the spindle so the scope is to the right.  If the line is on your mark, you're good side to side.  If not, adjust the scope so the crosshair moves half-way and repeat.  Once you're dialed-in in X, rotate the scope to the front, and move the table to get your work mark on the crosshair.  I typically use a mechanical edge finder with a point to find a center-punched hole.  Or, use an SDA laser center edge finder.

3)  Indi-Cal DTI attachment for measuring groove depth.  I haven't cut any internal snap ring grooves, so haven't used it.

4)  I have a quillmaster attachment and the QRA attachment for my BP.  They're both still on the same shelf they were in 2019 when I bought them.

5)  A set of thread triangles purchased just so I could say I have them.  I have digital thread pitch mics which are my "go to's".  The triangles and wires will probably never get used.  I have 0-1" & 1-2" digitals at each lathe and a vernier-type 2-3" "just in case".

6)  Two sets of interchangeable anvil 0-6" mics and a set of 6-12" interchangeable anvil mics.  All three are Fowler QLR digitals.  I just haven't had a project where a Vernier caliper wasn't "good enough".

Bruce

p.s.  Just because I don't use them doesn't mean I'm ready to sell them!


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## C-Bag

BGHansen said:


> p.s. Just because I don't use them doesn't mean I'm ready to sell them!


Sometimes I think those things are a talisman against the time I will need it! 99% of my stuff I’ve bought used and at prices I couldn’t resist. But things like sine bars, gauge blocks etc I know I’m not going to use so have resisted. For now  I am worried some of those things are going to show up for some obscene cheap price and I’ll HAVE to take them home though.


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## Bi11Hudson

dewbane said:


> Along these lines, another useless Item I have is a swivel vise. In theory, you could put work in and set it to a precise angle for machining. In practice, I'm not even sure where the thing is. I threw it in a dusty corner somewhere after I bought it, and never looked at it again. (I bought it with a gift card from somewhere. At least that one didn't cost me cash.)


Aparently it was on a different thread and this just rang a bell. Whatever the case, I ran across a swivel base being used for a contraption. Video link: 



I have a (sorta) anvil so can do full size stuff with a hammer up to my physical limits, but usually smaller stuff such as 3/16 X 1/32 brass. For the small work I have a number of my own (homade) contraptions, so have no need for this. But thought it might throw some light for folks that throw away "useless" stuff.

.


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## TomKro

I have something called a Black and Decker Workmate 525.  It's a combination of a folding workbench and a hand truck.  It looked like a good idea at the time.  It doesn't make a very good hand truck and it's sort of bulky compared to the "normal" Workmate.  Can't remember when I used it.  

Interesting that it was such a dismal failure.  I have a few of the folding Workmates and they're the best things since sliced bread.  I paid $20 for the first one over 30 years ago and have used that thing for almost everything.  A little scrap wood can be used to mount grinders, chop saws, etc.  They're not the best welding table, but at least the laminated surface burns slowly.


----------



## snoopdog

Not dumb at the time, but vacuum gauge, dwell meter, timing light, I doubt I'll ever use them again. Oh yeah, those adjustable reamers!


----------



## davidpbest

SWAG Portaband Table - Pro Model
					

SWAG Portaband Table - Pro Model Here at SWAG our Portaband tables are built for individuals looking for quality, 100% American made tools at an affordable price. Designed for those working with limited space and or those looking to maximize the full potential of their hand held band saws...




					www.swagoffroad.com


----------



## dewbane

TomKro said:


> They're not the best welding table, but at least the laminated surface burns slowly.


Congratulations! You just won the internet for today.

On the subject of dumb things I never use, I bought a knock-off Noga clone after visiting a real machinist's shop, and listening to him extol the virtues of Noga bases.

That guy's shop was the stuff of legends. He probably had over a million pounds of cast iron in there. The car we bought off of him was still junk though. The theory that if a machinist used to own it, it will be in good shape was proven false. I gave it to my wife's boyfriend for free, and he didn't die when the brakes failed. Crap. I tried.

The fake Noga base was junk too. Jeeeeeuuuuuyyyunk.

Anyhoo, Travers had a sale on Noga bases, and I snagged two real ones. Noga bases are seriously awesome.


----------



## BGHansen

C-Bag said:


> Sometimes I think those things are a talisman against the time I will need it! 99% of my stuff I’ve bought used and at prices I couldn’t resist. But things like sine bars, gauge blocks etc I know I’m not going to use so have resisted. For now  I am worried some of those things are going to show up for some obscene cheap price and I’ll HAVE to take them home though.


I typically don't pay too much for stuff, try to do some informed shopping before bidding/buying.  I have been known to do a lot of impulse buying on the cheap.  I'm trying to reel it in a little better.  I went on a buying spree a few years ago after I picked up a DoAll ML 16" bandsaw which would be replacing my Sears 12" wood saw.  My DoAll has a blade welder which works great.  I was shopping for bulk blade stock in varying widths and teeth per inch to replace the plethora of choices I had for the Craftsman.  I think it was eBay seller "stm_surplus" who listed a 100' roll of Starrett 1/2" x 10 tpi for $10.  "Oh, gotta have that!  That'd be great for cutting 1/4" plate!".  Before bidding, I checked what was in the shop.  I already had a full roll (good for 10 blades on my saw) and a pretty full partial.  Nope, don't need to be able to make up close to 30 10' 1/2" x 10 tpi blades.  I'm happy someone got a great deal as the stock went off auction at $10.

On the other hand, if picking up deals is what makes you happy, go for it!  I had a buddy in the Erector set collecting club who lived for "the hunt".  He scoured antique shops, flea markets, yard sales (and eBay) for stuff on the cheap.  He had over 1500 Erector set boxes with parts as found in them.  He probably had under 25 sets that were restored to "as shipped from the factory" appearance.  He got off on finding something for cheap and wasn't into sorting out parts and inventorying to build a complete set.  He was still buying stuff until he went off Chemo 6 years ago and passed away.

He told me a story about his son (kindergarten teacher) asking him where he could find a bunch of magnifying glasses for his students to use.  Ray went to a shelf and pulled off a couple hundred that he'd bought for $1 at a flea market.  I'm sure the look on his son's face was priceless to Ray!

Bruce


----------



## pontiac428

I may have things I own but never use here and there around the shop...
But the real issue is owning so many things that my so-called friends would _use_ but never _own_!

Thirty minutes on the mill might cost _you_ nothing, but I paid for it, moved it, housed it, powered it, tooled it up, and maintained it for years, and in that time my money has leaked like oil all over the place!  That thirty minutes is worth at least a pizza and a six pack, for frik's sake!


----------



## Eyerelief

I have a similar problem Bruce.  This past weekend I had a woodworking project using all half inch and 1X (.75") thick material.  The entire project was built with biscuits and glue except a couple small decorative panels that I used some 1-1/8" screws, 4 screws total.  When I went to get the screws I found I had 6 boxes one pound, 1 box 5 pound of them, some newer purchases and some really old boxes, all open.  After laughing at myself I said, "no problem, I will just combine them into one".  Nope, they were all full.  Apparently I cant go to the depot without buying a box of 1-1/8" screws.


----------



## great white

dewbane said:


> I gave it to my wife's boyfriend for free, and he didn't die when the brakes failed. Crap. I tried.


Ummmm….”my wife’s boyfriend”?

That sounds a little……”complicated”….


----------



## pontiac428

great white said:


> Ummmm….”my wife’s boyfriend”?
> 
> That sounds a little……”complicated”….


One man's complicated is another man's spicy.  That's why you can order spicy dishes on a scale of 1 to 10.  That way he gets the taste he's after, and you can have it as bland as you like!


----------



## Eyerelief

pontiac428 said:


> One man's complicated is another man's spicy.  That's why you can order spicy dishes on a scale of 1 to 10.  That way he gets the taste he's after, and you can have it as bland as you like!


Buckle up your chinstraps boy's, its about to get WESTERN!!!


----------



## C-Bag

BGHansen said:


> I typically don't pay too much for stuff, try to do some informed shopping before bidding/buying.  I have been known to do a lot of impulse buying on the cheap.  I'm trying to reel it in a little better.  I went on a buying spree a few years ago after I picked up a DoAll ML 16" bandsaw which would be replacing my Sears 12" wood saw.  My DoAll has a blade welder which works great.  I was shopping for bulk blade stock in varying widths and teeth per inch to replace the plethora of choices I had for the Craftsman.  I think it was eBay seller "stm_surplus" who listed a 100' roll of Starrett 1/2" x 10 tpi for $10.  "Oh, gotta have that!  That'd be great for cutting 1/4" plate!".  Before bidding, I checked what was in the shop.  I already had a full roll (good for 10 blades on my saw) and a pretty full partial.  Nope, don't need to be able to make up close to 30 10' 1/2" x 10 tpi blades.  I'm happy someone got a great deal as the stock went off auction at $10.
> 
> On the other hand, if picking up deals is what makes you happy, go for it!  I had a buddy in the Erector set collecting club who lived for "the hunt".  He scour antique shops, flea markets, yard sales (and eBay) for stuff on the cheap.  He had over 1500 Erector set boxes with parts as found in them.  He probably had under 25 sets that were restored to "as shipped from the factory" appearance.  He got off on finding something for cheap and wasn't into sorting out parts and inventorying to build a complete set.  He was still buying stuff until he went off Chemo 6 years ago and passed away.
> 
> He told me a story about his son (kindergarten teacher) asking him where he could find a bunch of magnifying glasses for his students to use.  Ray went to a shelf and pulled off a couple hundred that he'd bought for $1 at a flea market.  I'm sure the look on his son's face was priceless to Ray!
> 
> Bruce


Being pretty much a noob when I came here it was just the place where I could get a better picture of how to do what I wanted to do and what it took to do it. And being a life long tool user I loved having the right tool for the job. But it's a fine line between user and hoarder. This was always brought the most clear when I went to an estate sale and saw first hand how dumb hoarding was, and what a burden it could be to my SO. 

I was so curious and there was so much info here and knowing what I needed was the biggest part of the battle. I purposely stifle my SO's want to help by wanting to build a big shop. My garage shop is my ultimate governor on the urge to give in to the dumb excess. 

But over and over I see a thread here about some machine or process and that knowledge gets added to the pile and next thing I know I'm cruising CL or in an estate sale and bumble on to that thing that I thought "I could use that, but not what they want for it, so I'm ok" and there it is buried in boxes of junk and tools. So I'm torn, I don't really have the room, I only have a dim idea of what it does, but hey it's small, and the deciding factor is "how much?". And in the case of my Atlas shaper the guy says, $125...it's DOH!, that's way less than I ever thought I'd see a complete one for and how can I not buy it? But is it dumb?

 Turns out it wasn't. I use it as much as the lathe and mill. It does things neither is as well suited for. But I could have gotten along without it I guess. But I use it and wouldn't get rid of it. But to some it's dumb mostly for it's size, but once again dumb is in the hands of the user.


----------



## Just for fun

To quote my old boss when he got mad at an employee that kept referring to his tools as dumb "Let's get this straight, all tools are dumb".

That being said the only smart thing I own is my goobermint monitoring device (My Smartphone).


----------



## BGHansen

pontiac428 said:


> I may have things I own but never use here and there around the shop...
> But the real issue is owning so many things that my so-called friends would _use_ but never _own_!
> 
> Thirty minutes on the mill might cost _you_ nothing, but I paid for it, moved it, housed it, powered it, tooled it up, and maintained it for years, and in that time my money has leaked like oil all over the place!  That thirty minutes is worth at least a pizza and a six pack, for frik's sake!


I still have a sh*t-eatin' grin from a recent communication with a former supervisor of mine at my former workplace.  He is one of the smartest engineers I've been around, and hands down the most arrogant.  He relishes(d) putting people down with his "witty" comments.  He's one of the few from my former workplace that if I saw stranded on the road, I'd wave as I drive by.

He emailed me a month ago asking if I'd gotten into a routine since retiring at the end of February, 2022.  I cordially replied, "you will love 7-day weekends once you retire too."  I told my wife, you just watch, he wants something.

I got an email from him a week later, "Hey, is Hansen's Machine Shop still open for business?  I broke a part on my tractor that needs to be repaired, you wouldn't believe what the equipment dealer wants for the part!  I also have a design for a tool holder for my wood lathe I'd like fab'd up."  I replied that I'd love to help him out, but I'm swamped with projects and won't be able to help him for at least 6 months.

I'll make sure to not sweep the shop floor for a while when I get some things wrapped up and get closer to being able to help you out.  "Why's that?"  Because the price of admission into my shop is you sweep the floor before we even begin to look at your project.  Then the clock starts at $75/hour.  I'm retired and enjoy working on what I want, when I want, IF I want.  I don't want to work on your projects, so it is going to cost you dearly.  Funny thing, I haven't heard back. . .

Bruce


----------



## great white

pontiac428 said:


> One man's complicated is another man's spicy.  That's why you can order spicy dishes on a scale of 1 to 10.  That way he gets the taste he's after, and you can have it as bland as you like!


No worries. I’m very much a “live and let live” kind of person. As long as you’re not breaking laws, not harming other people and its consenting adults….Whatever works…


----------



## Manual Mac

I agree, whatever works.
as Harvey likes to remind me, being Manual Mac is a full time job.
I don’t have time to worry about other folks private lives.
Cheers


----------



## silence dogood

Bruce, congratulations on your retirement. One of the problems of working in the regular job is the pressure of getting it done quickly and yet meet the specs. It ain't easy. Nice thing about retirement is that you can be cantankerous as much as you want. If a person wants me to make something, that's fine but under my terms. They want it done right now, forget it. I'm going to take my time. They want a sloppy job, forget it. And don't tell me how I'm supposed to do it, especially in my shop. It may seem harsh. But quoting Winky' workshop, "I like it "in the end


----------



## Chips O'Toole

I bought a big set of broaches and bushings. I think I've used them once. But I don't care. I can't have peace unless I know I can broach.

I bought a Gorton grinder, fixed the bearings, and made a rolling base for it. Since then, it has collected dust. Really disgraceful, since it's probably the best drill sharpener on Earth.

I have a Veritas router plane, sitting in the box it came in. Not sure what it's for.

I like to keep my 8" rotary table on the mill, but my 10" table sits on a shelf. I'm afraid to lift it.

I learned how to use Fusion 360, and I used it to design an attachment that turns my 16x40 metal lathe into a wood lathe. I made the attachment, and I have never used it. Later I bought a very nice small Harbor Freight wood lathe and turned a Husky tool chest into a lathe cart. I have made one tool handle.

I'm not sure I've ever used my Dumore sensitive drill press.

I bought a mini lathe and converted it to CNC using a half-assed set of plans I found on the web. Not a great idea, unless you give up on the plans and get real balls crews.

On the other hand, there are expensive (or relatively expensive) tools that really worked out well.

The mill is an amazing tool. I can't understand why anyone would say a lathe is more versatile. A mill does everything a drill press does, better, plus a lot of what a lathe does.

I rarely use my plasma cutter, but when I do, I thank God I have it.

My dry-cut saw is a lifesaver. Zips through stuff that takes all day on the band saw. I use it constantly.

The 2x72 belt grinder is a wonder. Until you have one, you don't know how badly you need it. Cuts any kind of metal. Shapes. Polishes. Sharpens. I had to spend $500 on the body, and the spare VFD I used was a $300 item. Then I had to get a motor, a cart, and an enclosure for the VFD. I don't care. It rocks.

I put $300 CBN wheels on my bench grinder. Anyone who doesn't have CBN is insane. They last pretty much forever. You never have to dress them. They don't heat things anywhere near as much as ceramics. You can grind on the sides of the wheels without risking death. You never have to "ring" them to see if they're safe. You can grind anything under the sun on them safely; aluminum makes ceramic wheels explode.

Putting a VFD and bigger motor on the drill press was a great move. No belts to fool with.

Buying 5 angle grinders was smart. Don't switch wheels. Just reach for the other grinder. Getting a 6" Metabo with cutoff wheels allowed me to cut metal much faster than a band saw, and it even outdoes gas cutting and plasma sometimes.

I bought a Phase Perfect solid state phase converter. Something over three grand. I felt like a spendthrift, but it's fantastic. My big lathe runs like it should, and I was able to take the VFD off the mill.

I wish I had gone for a 7.5-horse compressor instead of 5. For most tasks, my compressor is a monster, but some tools really suck air.

The other expensive tool I haven't bought but should: lift that will pick up a car and also serve as a table. That would complete me.

I don't regret not falling for brands like Snap-On and MAC. Sometimes you have to buy the most expensive thing out there, but most of the time, you don't. If I had a $250 screwdriver, I would be ashamed of it.


----------



## dewbane

great white said:


> Ummmm….”my wife’s boyfriend”?
> 
> That sounds a little……”complicated”….


Every time I have some money to spend, I have more exciting things to do with it than pay legal fees, so I'm still married. Her boyfriend is still married too, which is probably why she hasn't nagged me to get this handled.


----------



## dewbane

Chips O'Toole said:


> I have a Veritas router plane, sitting in the box it came in. Not sure what it's for.


I mostly use mine to clean out the bottoms of dadoes. I also used the mini version of the Veritas to rout out some hinge recesses one time. Router planes are really useful. Heck, I haven't undertaken a serious wood project since 2008, but I still use my router plane for this and that. Usually carpentry stuff around the house.



Chips O'Toole said:


> The 2x72 belt grinder is a wonder. Until you have one, you don't know how badly you need it. Cuts any kind of metal. Shapes. Polishes. Sharpens.


I ended up going with a 2x48 or something weird, to save money. It's definitely not as good as a 72" belt, but it's much better than nothing. I hardly ever use my bench grinder anymore.



Chips O'Toole said:


> Buying 5 angle grinders was smart. Don't switch wheels.


On the subject of dumb stuff: Battery-powered angle grinder, and battery powered reciprocating saw. Those both suck batteries so fast it's almost funny.


----------



## tq60

Chips O'Toole said:


> I bought a big set of broaches and bushings. I think I've used them once. But I don't care. I can't have peace unless I know I can broach.
> 
> I bought a Gorton grinder, fixed the bearings, and made a rolling base for it. Since then, it has collected dust. Really disgraceful, since it's probably the best drill sharpener on Earth.
> 
> I have a Veritas router plane, sitting in the box it came in. Not sure what it's for.
> 
> I like to keep my 8" rotary table on the mill, but my 10" table sits on a shelf. I'm afraid to lift it.
> 
> I learned how to use Fusion 360, and I used it to design an attachment that turns my 16x40 metal lathe into a wood lathe. I made the attachment, and I have never used it. Later I bought a very nice small Harbor Freight wood lathe and turned a Husky tool chest into a lathe cart. I have made one tool handle.
> 
> I'm not sure I've ever used my Dumore sensitive drill press.
> 
> I bought a mini lathe and converted it to CNC using a half-assed set of plans I found on the web. Not a great idea, unless you give up on the plans and get real balls crews.
> 
> On the other hand, there are expensive (or relatively expensive) tools that really worked out well.
> 
> The mill is an amazing tool. I can't understand why anyone would say a lathe is more versatile. A mill does everything a drill press does, better, plus a lot of what a lathe does.
> 
> I rarely use my plasma cutter, but when I do, I thank God I have it.
> 
> My dry-cut saw is a lifesaver. Zips through stuff that takes all day on the band saw. I use it constantly.
> 
> The 2x72 belt grinder is a wonder. Until you have one, you don't know how badly you need it. Cuts any kind of metal. Shapes. Polishes. Sharpens. I had to spend $500 on the body, and the spare VFD I used was a $300 item. Then I had to get a motor, a cart, and an enclosure for the VFD. I don't care. It rocks.
> 
> I put $300 CBN wheels on my bench grinder. Anyone who doesn't have CBN is insane. They last pretty much forever. You never have to dress them. They don't heat things anywhere near as much as ceramics. You can grind on the sides of the wheels without risking death. You never have to "ring" them to see if they're safe. You can grind anything under the sun on them safely; aluminum makes ceramic wheels explode.
> 
> Putting a VFD and bigger motor on the drill press was a great move. No belts to fool with.
> 
> Buying 5 angle grinders was smart. Don't switch wheels. Just reach for the other grinder. Getting a 6" Metabo with cutoff wheels allowed me to cut metal much faster than a band saw, and it even outdoes gas cutting and plasma sometimes.
> 
> I bought a Phase Perfect solid state phase converter. Something over three grand. I felt like a spendthrift, but it's fantastic. My big lathe runs like it should, and I was able to take the VFD off the mill.
> 
> I wish I had gone for a 7.5-horse compressor instead of 5. For most tasks, my compressor is a monster, but some tools really suck air.
> 
> The other expensive tool I haven't bought but should: lift that will pick up a car and also serve as a table. That would complete me.
> 
> I don't regret not falling for brands like Snap-On and MAC. Sometimes you have to buy the most expensive thing out there, but most of the time, you don't. If I had a $250 screwdriver, I would be ashamed of it.


Car lift makes a great bench...

Toss plywood on it and any height you want.

Something heavy, lower to ground and drag it on....

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


----------



## great white

dewbane said:


> Every time I have some money to spend, I have more exciting things to do with it than pay legal fees, so I'm still married. Her boyfriend is still married too, which is probably why she hasn't nagged me to get this handled.


Life takes a weird path sometimes, often in directions we could never imagine. If it works, it works…..


----------



## Batmanacw

My Blake co-axial indicator.....it had a 0.001" wobble not touching anything while holding the body still. It seems to work perfectly. It's just the needle will not 100% settle. 

I have yet to need my gauge blocks but I have minus gauge pins up to 3/4" and I often use them. I'd like to go all the way to 1" someday. 

My crappy hf metric drill set comes to mind thinking about junk. I need to buy a decent set....


----------



## Bi11Hudson

tq60 said:


> Car lift makes a great bench...
> Toss plywood on it and any height you want.
> Something heavy, lower to ground and drag it on....


Just a thought, a somewhat smaller version is the "motorcycle" lift at HF. As well as a number of homade projects for the same device.

.


----------



## Cr2348455

_I have been buying, collecting woodworking and metalworking tools and machines for over 25 years. 
Our basement and shed are now full. 
2 die filer machines and over 30 dedicated files with stone holders in many grits. 
I never used any of them !
I have been told that I am a "collector" !
I guess I have to agree.  I still love going thru all the drawers and spaces to find forgotten brand new tools. 
Waay too many to list !
Happy Trails !
J_


----------



## MrCrankyface

Not sure if someone has already cracked this joke but eh.
Most of my braincells. 
Oh and that huge hydraulic hacksaw in the garage that I spent months renovating and then used 6 times.


----------



## dewbane

great white said:


> No worries. I’m very much a “live and let live” kind of person. As long as you’re not breaking laws, not harming other people and its consenting adults….Whatever works…


I just caught all that spicy and western stuff. It seems like you guys are imagining that I have some freaky relationship where I live in the same house as my wife and her boyfriend. I'm not opposed to unusual relationships myself, but this is just a case of she moved out and left it in my hands to tie up the loose ends. About the only interaction we have anymore is she will ask me once a year or so if I filed for divorce yet. Nope. Not going to do it today either.

I'm trying to decide how best to make my life easier, which may change the balance of dumb things I own and never use.

Currently, my rotary table just made that list. It's really sloppy. I just read through the manual again, and I wonder if I could just adjust it. It seems reasonably well-made. My real problem is probably that I'm still too stupid to indicate something to the spindle correctly. A coaxial indicator would make a fine addition.

On the other hand, my DRO setup would be way easier to use if I got a Touch DRO head unit.

I just checked my budget, and I'm already $1500 over. Of course I am. Well, I sure ain't paying for a divorce today.


----------



## ChazzC

snoopdog said:


> Not dumb at the time, but vacuum gauge, dwell meter, timing light, I doubt I'll ever use them again. Oh yeah, those adjustable reamers!


Hey, points may make a comeback, or you might move to Cuba.


----------



## Ken from ontario

I don't consider what left over tools I kept,  as waste of money or dumb but the idea of keeping them is silly.
I used to be in woodworking hobby for a few years ,  sold most of my major WW tools (planer, table saw, jointer) but sill have 4-5 routers, hand planers,  miter saw,  table saw blades, dovetail tool, router bits etc. I'm almost sure I'll never use them again and they are taking up valuable space but I still hang on to these tools so maybe in the future I could trade them or most likely give them to someone who needs  or appreciates them.


----------



## dewbane

Ken from ontario said:


> I'm almost sure I'll never use them again and they are taking up valuable space but I still hang on to these tools so maybe in the future I could trade them or most likely give them to someone who needs  or appreciates them.


You never know. I haven't turned anything on a wood lathe since that day long years ago when I decided I needed a toothpick holder.

I got into wet shaving, and went through a succession of unsatisfactory shave brushes before ending up with these nice hunks of rosewood, and a nice knot. I'm going to blow the dust, cobwebs, and who knows what else off the old Jet and spin it up. Turning wood will be interesting. Wood lathes are a lot less complicated. This is also prep for when I have to hand turn some parts for the clock I'm building. I've never free turned metal, but you can. My wood lathe tools are HSS, and I could probably just use them on the metal lathe with a suitable tool rest to make the fancy brass spindle thingies. It's time for some research.

I'm not sorry I kept the wood lathe. I still have the table saw, planer, and jointer too. I don't use them much, because I don't do much woodworking anymore, but all keeping them costs me is a little maintenance every year or so to keep them rust free.


----------



## Bone Head

I have an old Harley that uses points and condenser and occasionally work on a local Sportster.  Timing light, dwell-tachometer and a volt-ohm meter are a necessity with old iron.  A fair amount of my tools are for old stuff.


----------



## Bi11Hudson

MrCrankyface said:


> Oh and that huge hydraulic hacksaw in the garage that I spent months renovating and then used 6 times.


*Restoring archaic machinery* is a very large part of the metal working hobby.

.


----------



## Just for fun

Bone Head said:


> I have an old Harley that uses points and condenser and occasionally work on a local Sportster.  Timing light, dwell-tachometer and a volt-ohm meter are a necessity with old iron.  A fair amount of my tools are for old stuff.
> View attachment 420053


Very nice-looking old Harley, is that what they call a Pan Head?


----------



## Bone Head

Yep, pan head motor.  Pieced together rolling basket case.  Riding it since  about '77 or so.  True love/hate affair.


----------



## dewbane

Tired of parting problems, I decided to sink some money into The™ Real™ Stuff™, and I bought a Genuine™ Aloris™ AXA7™, and a Genuine™ Aloris™ carbide insert tool holder and Guine™ Aloris™ carbide parting inserts. It cost something like $210,000, because it's made of AMERICA!!!!!!!!




I've tried running it fast, and I've tried running it slow. I've tried running it wet and I've tried running it dry. All parting tools are somewhere toward the inside of Dante's circles of Hell, but this one in particular is just such an obnoxious little butthole that I can't believe I wasted money on it.

Maybe you need a lathe this is 50,000 times heavier, 50,000 times more rigid, and 50,000 times more, uh, purple?

Whatever. I can clearly derive no use whatsoever from this obnoxious Pee Oh Ess, and if anybody wants the parting blade and the few inserts I haven't yet broken, I will trade it all for


----------



## WobblyHand

dewbane said:


> View attachment 420167
> 
> 
> Tired of parting problems, I decided to sink some money into The™ Real™ Stuff™, and I bought a Genuine™ Aloris™ AXA7™, and a Genuine™ Aloris™ carbide insert tool holder and Guine™ Aloris™ carbide parting inserts. It cost something like $210,000, because it's made of AMERICA!!!!!!!!
> 
> View attachment 420168
> 
> 
> I've tried running it fast, and I've tried running it slow. I've tried running it wet and I've tried running it dry. All parting tools are somewhere toward the inside of Dante's circles of Hell, but this one in particular is just such an obnoxious little butthole that I can't believe I wasted money on it.
> 
> Maybe you need a lathe this is 50,000 times heavier, 50,000 times more rigid, and 50,000 times more, uh, purple?
> 
> Whatever. I can clearly derive no use whatsoever from this obnoxious Pee Oh Ess, and if anybody wants the parting blade and the few inserts I haven't yet broken, I will trade it all for


You are leaving us hanging!  You will trade it for what?  I'm interested, depending on the what.


----------



## Just for fun

I'll trade ya for it also.......  Oh, never mind it is an AXA.

Did you make sure you were on center and square with the chuck?


----------



## Just for fun

What happened here?  Looks like you smacked the chuck.


----------



## Chips O'Toole

Here's something dumb I own. I made my own CNC lathe. A mistake.

Today I put it on a new tool chest so it actually moves and won't be in the way all the time. I had it on a filthy old Workmate. I think I'm going to get a real ball screw for it and see if I can make it useful.


----------



## davidpbest

dewbane said:


> View attachment 420167
> 
> 
> Tired of parting problems, I decided to sink some money into The™ Real™ Stuff™, and I bought a Genuine™ Aloris™ AXA7™, and a Genuine™ Aloris™ carbide insert tool holder and Guine™ Aloris™ carbide parting inserts. It cost something like $210,000, because it's made of AMERICA!!!!!!!!
> 
> I've tried running it fast, and I've tried running it slow. I've tried running it wet and I've tried running it dry. All parting tools are somewhere toward the inside of Dante's circles of Hell, but this one in particular is just such an obnoxious little butthole that I can't believe I wasted money on it.
> 
> Maybe you need a lathe this is 50,000 times heavier, 50,000 times more rigid, and 50,000 times more, uh, purple?
> 
> Whatever. I can clearly derive no use whatsoever from this obnoxious Pee Oh Ess, and if anybody wants the parting blade and the few inserts I haven't yet broken, I will trade it all for


Perhaps the attached will help you.


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## dewbane

Just for fun said:


> What happened here?  Looks like you smacked the chuck.


The tool pulled out of the holder sideways and crashed everything. That has happened repeatedly with this particular tool. There's nothing wrong with the tool holder. Aloris tool holders are expensive, but they're nice. I'm sure the parting tool is nice too, but it just doesn't work well on my lathe.

As far as that goes, I did study the problem a little since writing the other day, and the problem with this parting tool on my lathe is that it's very rigid, and the lathe isn't. A parting tool should be rigid, but I've been relying on the fact that HSS parting tools bend a little, side to side. I finally saw it happen, and it clicked what's been going on. When that happens with this beefy carbide tool holder, that's when it goes boom.

I never thought to try actually indicating the parting tool to get it dead nuts perpendicular. I should try that. Maybe that's part of my problem.

Anyhoo, I don't think I could ever get my setup rigid and dialed in enough to have a fair chance with that particular carbide insert holder. The tool holder itself is fine, and I finally ground out that crash mark and made it pretty again. I put a HSS parting blade in there. Parted the part right off. It is what it is, I guess.


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## dewbane

davidpbest said:


> Perhaps the attached will help you.


Indeed, I have identified some problems with my technique, and new things to check and try.

One of the big ones is feed rate. I try to be consistent, but I don't have power feed, and cranking by hand is a fundamentally variable process.


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## great white

dewbane said:


> The tool pulled out of the holder sideways and crashed everything. That has happened repeatedly with this particular tool. There's nothing wrong with the tool holder. Aloris tool holders are expensive, but they're nice. I'm sure the parting tool is nice too, but it just doesn't work well on my lathe.
> 
> As far as that goes, I did study the problem a little since writing the other day, and the problem with this parting tool on my lathe is that it's very rigid, and the lathe isn't. A parting tool should be rigid, but I've been relying on the fact that HSS parting tools bend a little, side to side. I finally saw it happen, and it clicked what's been going on. When that happens with this beefy carbide tool holder, that's when it goes boom.
> 
> I never thought to try actually indicating the parting tool to get it dead nuts perpendicular. I should try that. Maybe that's part of my problem.
> 
> Anyhoo, I don't think I could ever get my setup rigid and dialed in enough to have a fair chance with that particular carbide insert holder. The tool holder itself is fine, and I finally ground out that crash mark and made it pretty again. I put a HSS parting blade in there. Parted the part right off. It is what it is, I guess.


There’s something about your parting technique you just haven’t quite sorted yet.

I part 1018 and 6061 on my Atlas 10F without drama. Thats with a hss cutter and a holder like the one you’re using for the insert.

The 10F is well known for a lack of rigidity, at least when parting and making heavy cuts. So I’m skeptical that the problem is your lathe is too “flexible”.

I also usually cut dry or a few drops of oil at most. When I use lots of oil its usually to try and make the parting smoother or to try and keep the temp down so the tool doesn’t loose its temper. I don’t like slinging oil all over or breathing in oil smoke, so I minimize the use of oil as much as I can. Others may differ on that. Different strokes…

What made the biggest difference for me was learning that the feed rate is much higher than what you would think.

You’ve got to force it into the material pretty hard or you’re going to get lots of chatter.

Lots of guys are a bit “shy” when starting the feed and that just sets up chatter. Especially so for home machinists, where you get condtioned to make light cuts to compensate for “hobby grade” machines. 

I’ve found ya just gotta jam ‘er in there and keep feeding. As if that isn’t confusing enough, if you do get chatter you have to feed even harder to get under the chatter marks you just made or the chatter will just build on itself until you think the whole lathe is just going to flip over, explode and throw pieces to all 4 corners of the shop.

The way I picture it in my mind is you need to get a good sized chip started or the blade is going to “pop“ that “thin” chip off and the blade with bounce/vibrate when it does it. Another thin chip after that and you can see how chatter starts and builds. If you think about a washboard road, its kind of a similar effect: it gets a few potholes and the more cars that drive over it, the bigger the washboarding gets. That might not be exactly what happens, but its what makes sense to that bundle of nerve cells perched at the top of my neck.

The parting blade needs to be perpendicular to the material. All I do is pop a 123 block against the chuck face and get the tool holder up tight to it and flush. Then lock it all down. You can go all out and tram the parting tool, but I’ve never found that necessary. Might be a different story if you’re working with something harder than 1018.

I tried a couple carbide parting tools and holders, but each was only a matter of time before it grabbed or chattered and either snapped the insert or the end of the insert holder. Went back to a generic hss blade and never had a crash/jam/grab again. I’m accounting that to the fact that I usually grab the blade before each cut and give it a touch up on the grinder and/or a quick stone. I find carbide parting inserts are kind of a “ya get whatcha get”, so when it starts to get dull you either get poor performance or (in my case) grabbing/jamming/ snapping.

Tool stick out is also important. You need to keep stick out to the absolute minimum to cut the depth you need. Excess stickout lets the blade move and flex, which induces chatter and the risk of breakage. If I have to make a deep part, I’ll do a short stick out and when it bottoms I’ll re-adjust and give it more stickout, but as little as possible. I’ll keep doing that until its done. It allows you to minimize the stickout (and flex) when doing deep parting.

The tool also needs to be on center. And I mean _dead nuts_ on center. Too low and the work can ride up on top of the cutter, which leads to all kinds of bad things happening. Too high and you’re just polishing the work where the blade contacts It.

I’ll likely get a lot if “flack” for this, but I will also use a live center if not cutting right up by the chuck. Like an inch or less up by the chuck. More than an inch or so and I use a live center. For me, it eliminates that little bit of flex/bounce/deflection the work will get when working away from the chuck. You just have to be watching and waiting for the part to finish or you risk getting a jam when the piece drops. It’s not a panic moment to shut down, but you need to be ready when it does drop to kill the power. My lathe runs a dc motor with dynamic braking, so when I kill the motor it stops in just under a single revolution.

The other thing that made a huge difference is that I removed the top compound and made a solid plinth to mount the qctp to. That eliminated the “flex” the top compound had and made parting a breeze. Truthfully, the solid plinth works so well I leave it on all the time and only swap to the top compound when I need to cut a taper or angle. Nearly every other operation I use the solid plinth. It just works soooo much better than the “flexible” stack up of slides on a stock 10F.

You really want to eliminate as many “joints” as you can when parting and lock down every gib you have except the one you are using to feed.

I also never power feed. I’ve tried it and all I get is lockups and crashes. Personally, I need to “feel“ the work face when feeding to know whether I need to feed harder or back off for chatter or lockups.

The last thing I’ll mention is I always part in back gear and almost always around 100-150 rpm spindle speed. I can go faster, but it just seems to introduce problems on my little 10F. Keep in mind its sfpm you need to get right and as you plunge into a large diameter that sfpm changes as you get deeper into the part.

Keep at it, you’ll get it. Took me nearly a year to figure it out and now I tend to prefer the parting blade to the band saw, if I have the choice.

Whew. That got a little longer than I intended it to be…..


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## westerner

great white said:


> What made the difference for me was learning that the feed rate is much higher than what you would think.


Me too. No doubt the single most effective change in my technique or set-up.


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## davidpbest

IMO all aspects discussed in the attachment I posted earlier are important contributors to successful parting. There is no “magic bullet” cure-all - every aspect of alignment, rigidity, feed rate, lube, tool, and material type, etc. contribute in varying degrees.


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## Chips O'Toole

I don't have any problems with parting, but then I do what I was always taught to do. I ram the blade in there with no mercy and no pauses, and I use a lot of oil. It always feels wrong, but it works.


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## Janderso

OK, i'll play.
I too have a swivel large mill vise. I guess it could be for a large drill press. I don't use it.
The grinder is a peace of sh17!
The wheels are off a Delta 6X48 belt sander I no longer own.
The drill press was a gift, I can't sell it and have no space for it, don't need it.
Oh, there's more......


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## Chip Hacket

BGHansen said:


> I still have a sh*t-eatin' grin from a recent communication with a former supervisor of mine at my former workplace.  He is one of the smartest engineers I've been around, and hands down the most arrogant.  He relishes(d) putting people down with his "witty" comments.  He's one of the few from my former workplace that if I saw stranded on the road, I'd wave as I drive by.
> 
> He emailed me a month ago asking if I'd gotten into a routine since retiring at the end of February, 2022.  I cordially replied, "you will love 7-day weekends once you retire too."  I told my wife, you just watch, he wants something.
> 
> I got an email from him a week later, "Hey, is Hansen's Machine Shop still open for business?  I broke a part on my tractor that needs to be repaired, you wouldn't believe what the equipment dealer wants for the part!  I also have a design for a tool holder for my wood lathe I'd like fab'd up."  I replied that I'd love to help him out, but I'm swamped with projects and won't be able to help him for at least 6 months.
> 
> I'll make sure to not sweep the shop floor for a while when I get some things wrapped up and get closer to being able to help you out.  "Why's that?"  Because the price of admission into my shop is you sweep the floor before we even begin to look at your project.  Then the clock starts at $75/hour.  I'm retired and enjoy working on what I want, when I want, IF I want.  I don't want to work on your projects, so it is going to cost you dearly.  Funny thing, I haven't heard back. . .
> 
> Bruce


I just recently retired myself.  I know of an exact copy of that person from my old job.  I vicariously enjoyed that quite a bit!  In my dreams there is an accessible mud puddle beside that broken down car.


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## PacketNarc

John O said:


> 10MM sockets


LOL.. I was in HF last weekend for the end of the Labor Day sale and picked up a pack of 7 or 8 10mm in various size / depths.

First time i'd ever seen a set of nothin' but 10mm. Whoever thought to package them that way, was a genius.

I've never owned a vehicle that didn't eat 2-3 of them.


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## dewbane

PacketNarc said:


> LOL.. I was in HF last weekend for the end of the Labor Day sale and picked up a pack of 7 or 8 10mm in various size / depths.
> 
> First time i'd ever seen a set of nothin' but 10mm. Whoever thought to package them that way, was a genius.
> 
> I've never owned a vehicle that didn't eat 2-3 of them.


That is pretty genius, but so far my vehicle has yet to wrest a 10mm socket from me. The last time, I jumped up and down and all around, and waved a rubber chicken at it, until it finally vomited my lost socket on the ground. Dewbane 1, Jeep 0. Bwa ha ha ha haaaaaa!


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## Chips O'Toole

Everything is 10mm.


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## K30

I have to recind my previous stupid too, the E-torx sockets as i had to use a couple on my buddy's wife's car yesterday.

But, I submit to you this epically useless thing, the 51/64ths 5 sided socket! I've needed it exactly once. I bet a bucket of doubloons it never gets pulled out again


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## pontiac428

K30 said:


> I have to recind my previous stupid too, the E-torx sockets as i had to use a couple on my buddy's wife's car yesterday.
> 
> But, I submit to you this epically useless thing, the 51/64ths 5 sided socket! I've needed it exactly once. I bet a bucket of doubloons it never gets pulled out again


That's a security socket for sub-grade electrical vaults, typically concrete set like in sidewalks.  5 sides and 51/64ths keeps everyone out except for the guy who brought a pair of Channel-Locks with him on his spree for high voltage junctions.  They come up with all sorts of tamper-resistant stuff like that, but much of it is possible to defeat.  Go take a walk downtown near large buildings, look at what's installed in the sidewalk, and see what fits!


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## Eyerelief

pontiac428 said:


> That's a security socket for sub-grade electrical vaults, typically concrete set like in sidewalks.  5 sides and 51/64ths keeps everyone out except for the guy who brought a pair of Channel-Locks with him on his spree for high voltage junctions.  They come up with all sorts of tamper-resistant stuff like that, but much of it is possible to defeat.  Go take a walk downtown near large buildings, look at what's installed in the sidewalk, and see what fits!


If your game, those vault lids have steel in them that could be used for lots of things.  Hard to run with tho, but bullet proof.


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## pontiac428

Eyerelief said:


> If your game, those vault lids have steel in them that could be used for lots of things.  Hard to run with tho, but bullet proof.


l hadn't thought of that.  Think people will wonder why my cnc plasma lawn decorations have the power company's name written in weld bead all over them?


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## Eyerelief

You know, its near impossible these days to get ahead of the utility companies.  If I were your neighbor I would worship your power company funded lawn art by starting every morning in prayer, in peace amongst your plasma riddled lawn decorations.


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## K30

pontiac428 said:


> That's a security socket for sub-grade electrical vaults, typically concrete set like in sidewalks.  5 sides and 51/64ths keeps everyone out except for the guy who brought a pair of Channel-Locks with him on his spree for high voltage junctions.  They come up with all sorts of tamper-resistant stuff like that, but much of it is possible to defeat.  Go take a walk downtown near large buildings, look at what's installed in the sidewalk, and see what fits!


It'll also get you into pad-mount transformers and 13.8kv switchgear.


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## tq60

K30 said:


> I have to recind my previous stupid too, the E-torx sockets as i had to use a couple on my buddy's wife's car yesterday.
> 
> But, I submit to you this epically useless thing, the 51/64ths 5 sided socket! I've needed it exactly once. I bet a bucket of doubloons it never gets pulled out again


Needed one of those for years to access a client's equipment.

They never provided one so we used hammer and chisel to get started an Gerber to finish.

Penta socket.

Size is distance from a flat to opposite point

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


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## starr256

In the category of worthless-junk-tool, my nominee would be the Harbor Freight Scroll Saw.
For the used-once-now-what category is a 100V 10A DC power supply. It worked great, but at great expense.
In the nice-idea-but-nope category is a cheap lathe milling attachment.


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## Chips O'Toole

I don't think this exactly fits the thread, but I will post it anyway. I bought a Rockwell Jawhorse. I thought it would be useful from time to time.

It turned out to be one of those tools you're really glad you have, about twice a year.

The big problem with it is that it turned out to be an incredible reloading bench, so my press is always sitting on it. I did something other reloaders should try. I screwed and glued two old pieces of 2x6 together, one on top of the other. One is about two feet long, and the other is about 10" long. I clamped the 10" piece in the vise. This leaves the long piece hanging out in front of the Jawhorse. I drilled it and attached the press to it.

It is 100% rock steady, and if I ever decide to put the press away, I can just pop the press off the wood and remove the wood from the vise. The wood stores in an area about as big as two loaves of bread. If you put lag shields in the wood, you can use lag screws and forget about nuts and washers.

You can also take an old tray and screw it to the upper piece, giving you a big flat area where you can put things like bullets and casings while  you run the press. I haven't gotten around to that. An aluminum half-sheet baking pan would be perfect.

It's hard to believe I came up with an idea this great. But I miss the Jawhorse, which really is useful sometimes.


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## Bone Head

I'll work a tool into the budget especially if I can make a buck with it.  But pay good money for a sorry piece of foo-foo that does a job poorly or not at all?  No.
So I present to you the OTC Piston Pin Puller.  It has plastic pieces to snatch a stubborn pin out of an unforgiving piston.  The plastic is cheap; splits and deforms.  Wound up making one (that works great) out of a length of all-thread, several nuts, flat washers and an E lCheapo deep well socket. that works just dandy.  Which I should have done originally.
The OTC was finally given to a neighbor who said he could make it work.
After two years he just started speaking to me again...


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## westerner

Bone Head said:


> After two years he just started speaking to me again...


Nice. It is good to get the relationship established.


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## alloy

A plasma cutter. 

 Bought it to cut the engine out of a rolled escalade that was up for auction and the damn thing went for over $5k.  I can buy an engine for less that and has a warranty.  The cutter in still in the box.


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