# Router bits to cut Aluminum.



## Ken from ontario (Feb 2, 2017)

Have you used any woodworking/router bits for milling metal? how far have you pushed the bits? did you try mild steel? how about cast iron,what type of cast iron if any?

I was about to order a cheap round over on Amazon then I thought,I have a much better quality round over router bit,so I'm going to give it a try.


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## Nogoingback (Feb 2, 2017)

I've used router bits in my router to round over aluminum a number of times with no problems.  I take very light cuts, and the results have been good as long as I'm careful and take it slow.
Can't see why it wouldn't work in your mill.   I'm not brave enough to try it with steel.


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## Hukshawn (Feb 2, 2017)

Generally, the carbide in the cheap bits is of fairly low quality, if there is such a thing. They can dull quite quickly then possibly heat up. But, due to the work load, I'd have to believe chamfering/rounding over aluminum would be a smaller work load and run cooler than taking a full cut on MDF, which is killer on router bits and saw blades. 

On a side note for carbide router bits and saw blades. I often cut aluminum tile trims or glass edging/tracks on my chop saw with no issues aside from flying shards of aluminum.


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## Ken from ontario (Feb 2, 2017)

The manufacturers of cheaper carbide router bits also braze smaller pieces of carbide on the cutting edges of their bits  in comparison to better made  Lee Valley chamfering bit which has two solid cutting edges that covers the whole cutting surface, the cheap imported one has a 1/8" strip of carbide on each side (probably 1/16" thick),they get dull way too fast because of that.

The round over router  bit for milling metal sold by Amazon for under $12 is HSS  , I think I would get a much better cut quality from my RO router bit than the one from Amazon, I could  save the money and get a better quality set specifically for milling metal.


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## Hukshawn (Feb 2, 2017)

And a Freud bit will set you back 35-45 bucks. However, you can sharpen them 5-6 times.


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## Nogoingback (Feb 2, 2017)

Hukshawn said:


> Generally, the carbide in the cheap bits is of fairly low quality, if there is such a thing. They can dull quite quickly then possibly heat up. But, due to the work load, I'd have to believe chamfering/rounding over aluminum would be a smaller work load and run cooler than taking a full cut on MDF, which is killer on router bits and saw blades.
> 
> On a side note for carbide router bits and saw blades. I often cut aluminum tile trims or glass edging/tracks on my chop saw with no issues aside from flying shards of aluminum.




I also cut aluminum on my table saw, though I have a 10" blade made for non ferrous metal.  Used it for years on all kinds of stuff.


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## f350ca (Feb 2, 2017)

Often use carbide router bits in the mill to round over aluminum. I've used up to 3/4 radius with no problems. Haven't tried them on steel yet.

Greg


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## Ken from ontario (Feb 2, 2017)

Other than the round over bit I would really like to use a router chamfer bit also. mainly on Aluminum.


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## Hukshawn (Feb 2, 2017)

Nogoingback said:


> I also cut aluminum on my table saw, though I have a 10" blade made for non ferrous metal.  Used it for years on all kinds of stuff.



Man, I couldn't imagine the noise...


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## Nogoingback (Feb 2, 2017)

Dunno, I always wear earplugs.


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## JimDawson (Feb 2, 2017)

Gunrunner you need to order a set of these for the Z axis hand crank. Bill did you just spit coffee on your monitor? :rofl:

View attachment 253356


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## CluelessNewB (Feb 2, 2017)

I have never tried it but I did happen watch this video on YouTube last night:

Ships wheel meets Mr Mayhem from Ox Tools


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## Ken from ontario (Feb 2, 2017)

Wow Jim,it pays to be a woodworker first and then a hobby machinist, I guess the reason I was a bit hesitant at first was the the difference in RPM between a mini mill(2500 rpm) and a router(12000 to 30000),I thought  router bits were not designed to spin at such low RPM  as  mini mill but  obviously I was overthinking it.


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## brino (Feb 2, 2017)

Thanks @JimDawson !


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## JimDawson (Feb 2, 2017)

Ken from ontario said:


> Wow Jim,it pays to be a woodworker first and then a hobby machinist, I guess the reason I was a bit hesitant at first was the the difference in RPM between a mini mill(2500 rpm) and a router(12000 to 30000),I thought  router bits were not designed to spin at such low RPM  as  mini mill but  obviously I was overthinking it.



Router bits are just another cutting tool, the geometry is a bit different than metal cutting bits, but not so different that they don't work well.  When cutting metal, you just observe the same feeds and speeds that you would with an end mill of the same size.  Where possible, I do use 1/2 inch shank bits.

Here is a short video of a 3/8 solid carbide end mill in a router running at about 8,000 RPM, pocketing 1/2 inch holes in aluminum angle.  This is from a customer of mine.  I recently installed the air vices and did some repair work to the machine for him.  This shows the cutters are almost interchangeable.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b5lqf1wcttx7sz1/Drilling Aluminum Angles on our new CNC Router 2-2-17.m4v?dl=0


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## Ken from ontario (Feb 2, 2017)

Interesting video, it makes sense to use an end mill in a router than a woodworking carbide spiral bit in a milling machine  but I now believe  both are possible. thanks.


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## savarin (Feb 3, 2017)

I use them on aluminium with no problems.
I also use the curve on some of the bits as a form tool to round the ends of stainless and mild steel rod.


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## eugene13 (Feb 3, 2017)

A little different slant on this, I've used a router with a carbide burr to gasket match exhaust ports in a cylinder head, leaves a beautiful finish.


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## intjonmiller (Feb 4, 2017)

In my experience the cheaper router bits are usually not so much cheaper carbide necessarily (but certainly that's possible) so much as not as well sharpened. 

I have mostly Yonico bits from eBay and Amazon. I really like them. But for a few bits that I use on products that I sell I use Bosch, Amana, and Freud bits, purchased from my local sharpening service for $40-50 each. When I need any of them sharpened it costs like $8. I feel like I'm stealing from them. CNC sharpening machines that surely cost them six figures and I'm paying in singles. (And an ATAB 100 tooth crosscut miter saw blade is like $18.) Everyone should get to know their local sharpening service. If you don't have one just use mine: http://www.accarbide.com. Only woodworking and guillotine tools, though. No end mills or any of that.


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## ch2co (Feb 4, 2017)

savarin said:


> I use them on aluminium with no problems.
> I also use the curve on some of the bits as a form tool to round the ends of stainless and mild steel rod.



Savarin
You aren't even talking about using router blades on a (real) mill, but using your lathe as a mill, correct?  If so, then how
many RPM's do you turn your chuck at?  

CHuck of the other kind i.e. Grumpy


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## ch2co (Feb 4, 2017)

PS
What am I doing on my computer at 3:15 AM!


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## savarin (Feb 4, 2017)

ch2co said:


> Savarin
> You aren't even talking about using router blades on a (real) mill, but using your lathe as a mill, correct?  If so, then how
> many RPM's do you turn your chuck at?
> 
> CHuck of the other kind i.e. Grumpy



Thats correct, 500 to 900 and a couple of times in aluminium at 1800.
Other times I have the bit held in a tool holder and turn the stack at 900.


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## ch2co (Feb 4, 2017)

Yes, it is amazing what you can do with a smallish lathe and nothing else.  well except for your ingenuity.

CHuck the grumpy old guy


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## savarin (Feb 4, 2017)

Thanks CHuck, appreciated.


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## MrWhoopee (Jan 3, 2020)

Reviving this old thread to add my experience. Yonico 1/4 in. round-over bit with 1/2 in. shank. Cutting C1018 steel @ 660 rpm in vertical mill. Performed well beyond expectations, left a beautiful finish and showed no wear or damage.


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