# 12z Update And Status After A Year.



## wrmiller (Nov 25, 2015)

Well, it's been a year now (doesn't seem like it...) and I apparently can't leave well enough alone, so...

I'm making changes to my mill. Again. 

I'm finally going to install a separate control panel for the VFD courtesy of Paul at CO, and remove the fwd/rev switch and put the front panel back onto the VFD. And I'm going to redo the layout of the one-shot oiling system I put on by moving the manifold to the side of the saddle so I have only one line running from the pump to the saddle. I'll run new lines under the table to de-clutter even further.

But the big move will be the change over to ball screws on the X and Y axis. In the last year I've managed to use up all of the backlash adjustment on the X-axis nut, and instead of just replacing the nut, or designing/making a double-nut replacement like the big boys use, I've decided to just go for it and replace everything. Especially after talking to Paul and him telling me that the difference is like night and day in how the machine feels when you're operating it (they've done this conversion for other customers' manual machines). I went ahead and cheated, in that I ordered the kit from CO so I don't have to fabricate anything other than some bushings/adapters to put my handwheels on the end of the screws. Not sure if I have to do anything to re-use my X-axis power feed. We'll see.

So I've already taken the table and saddle off of the mill, and thought I'd do a close visual to see how things are wearing after a year. The ways of the table barely show any marks. Had to look real close to find any at all. The X-axis ways on the saddle show a bit more in the way of 'bright marks' (table harder than the saddle?), but they appear to be very evenly distributed. The Y-axis ways on the saddle and base barely show anything. Same for the Y-axis screw and nut. Guess we know which axis I move the most. Oh, and when I took this thing apart, the table and saddle ways were sopping wet with oil. Guess the oiler is doing it's job. 

So stay tuned, and I'll post some comments and pics as I go through this conversion. The ball screw kit is still about a week or two from arrival (Paul was out of screws when I ordered the kit, but should have them today or Friday).


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## Chris Bettis (Nov 26, 2015)

Damnit quit giving me ideas. I haven't even recieved my mill and im already looking to spend more on upgrades than i paid for it. Remember I have a  lathe to purchase as well. 

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## coolidge (Nov 26, 2015)

Inspirational photos for you guys...

Spindle speed, forward, reverse, stop controls wired properly to the VFD allowing the VFD to control these functions. Motor wired directly to the VFD. The cable carrier worked out well to keep the cables from flopping down in the way.

This heavy gauge electrical cabinet silenced some of the noise from the VFD fan. I installed a big fan on the upper left to vent the cabinet. Those hooks came in handy on the back of the stand, you can get the track and various size/style hooks at Lowes.



The Culter Hammer spindle speed pot wasn't cheap, but its super nice, has a hydraulic feel to it and 270 degrees of rotation, you will have very fine control over spindle speed with this vs the lame VFD pot. If you go too cheap on the speed pot you will regret the decision.



I didn't want 110vac out on the controls so I picked up a 24 vdc power supply, all the controls are running 24vdc to the VFD. The relay wiring was a bit crazy, it looks like a magnetic field. As I mentioned to Bill yesterday I used 12-4 flex power cord from the VFD to the motor and 10-4 flex power cord for my 25 foot extension cord. I used 4 wire for 2 hots, neutral, and a ground. All grounds tie back to a single rail, you can see the 3 ground lugs ganged together in the pic, then off to the service panel via the extension cord big 10 gauge ground wire.


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## wrmiller (Nov 26, 2015)

Chris Bettis said:


> Damnit quit giving me ideas. I haven't even recieved my mill and im already looking to spend more on upgrades than i paid for it. Remember I have a  lathe to purchase as well.
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk



The single, biggest bang-for-the-buck update I would recommend for this mill is the belt-drive conversion. Completely changes the characteristics of the machine.


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## coolidge (Nov 26, 2015)

Bill did you upgrade your spindle bearings when you converted to belt drive?


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## wrmiller (Nov 26, 2015)

CO upgraded the bearings as part of the 3 hp/VFD upgrade.

Good point though, as this would fall to the owner to do if upgrading to the belt drive after the sale.


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## Chris Bettis (Dec 1, 2015)

Let me know if parts need machining while your mill is out of commission for the ballscrew upgrades. Mine should be here within a couple weeks. I think... 

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## wrmiller (Dec 1, 2015)

Thanks Chris! 

I will have to make a few bushings/collars to fit my hand wheels and power feed on the lathe, but according to Paul I shouldn't have to fabricate any support plates. We'll see. Paul told me yesterday that my ball screws showed up and he'll have everything boxed up and out to me in a day or two.

I'm taking the two weeks of Christmas and New Years off, so guess where I'll be spending my vacation time?


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## Chris Bettis (Dec 1, 2015)

Nice! Hopefully my mill showed up in the same shipment. Still awaiting an email confirming its arrival. 

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## wrmiller (Dec 4, 2015)

Paul contacted me yesterday and asked if I was using my 12z with the ball screw kit as a manual machine only, and don't intend to convert to CNC in the future. Apparently, the ball screw conversion has become popular with some of the manual machine crowd, and there are some modifications that they can do to the bearing blocks to make using hand wheels much more easy. Once the mods are done though, you can't go CNC. So they are going to go ahead and make the mods and get the stuff in the mail to me next week.

It would be cool to talk to some of the other 12z owners that have done this and other mods, but don't hang out here. Is there a forum somewhere else for CO owners? Yahoo maybe?


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## Chris Bettis (Dec 4, 2015)

Not that I know of... 

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## tmarks11 (Dec 5, 2015)

Well there is the forum on cnczone, but few post there.


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## wrmiller (Dec 5, 2015)

Thanks Tim, know about those folks. I won't go over there either. No manual guys over there.


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## wrmiller (Dec 12, 2015)

OK, ball screws are on the way. UPS says they'll get here next Wed.. 

Paul at CO has been sending me some emails with some instructions, required mods, and pictures.

I have not done this yet, as I'm awaiting the kit so I can visualize this better, but a pocket has to be milled for the Y-axis ball screw and mount.




Next, you have to modify the mill base by lengthening the center slot by 3" (this is my mill) 
	

		
			
		

		
	




And for those with chip trays, you either have to remove the chip tray, or cut a hole in it so you can access the bottom of the saddle/Y-axis ball nut mount. So...I cut a hole in my chip tray between the front two base webbings. 




I have not done this yet, but I have to enlarge the hole in the front of the base. I'm waiting to see just how big I need, but Paul sent me a pic of the rig they use. He says it works great when they are doing 6 or more machines at a time. Not sure what this getup is.



Here's a pic Paul sent showing the X-axis screw and nut installed.



Here's a couple of pics showing the assembly of the ball nut, ball nut nose, and ball nut mount. Guess I get to make a spanner to assemble these...





More to follow...


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## Chris Bettis (Dec 12, 2015)

wrmiller said:


> OK, ball screws are on the way. UPS says they'll get here next Wed..
> 
> Paul at CO has been sending me some emails with some instructions, required mods, and pictures.
> 
> ...


Looks like Wednesday will be Christmas for both of us! 

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## brav65 (Dec 13, 2015)

Bill good thing you kept your little guy so that you can still machin some parts!


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## wrmiller (Dec 13, 2015)

Yup, he's just waiting for me to start.


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## coolidge (Dec 13, 2015)

Bill are you going to support the opposite end of the X screw with a bearing given how long the table is? Also angular bearings give you some wiggle room but your reference will be the end of the table, if its not square front to back and with the top of the table you can put the bearings into a bind requiring shims to correct or surfacing of the end of the table. Get it right and you will love those screws, but take it slow and methodical it can be frustrating to get everything aligned.


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## wrmiller (Dec 13, 2015)

Right now I'm waiting to see what is in the kit, but yea, I'm not going to rush this.


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## Chris Bettis (Dec 13, 2015)

Paint is going on now. 
	

		
			
		

		
	




Oops wrong place admin help!


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## wrmiller (Dec 13, 2015)

Oops.


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## Chris Bettis (Dec 13, 2015)

Tapatalk app gets confused sometimes. 

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## wrmiller (Dec 16, 2015)

The ball screw kit is here. Coolidge, there are brackets for each end of the screws. A nice feature is the ball nut mounts already have fittings to hook them up to my oiling system, and the Y-axis mount has a brush to keep the larger junk out of the ball nut. 

I will get started this weekend when the temps here get above 40.


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## coolidge (Dec 17, 2015)

Bill do you have one of these, it might be helpful to check that the mounting surfaces are parallel with each other. Even Y on your mill is fairly long front to rear, the longer the distance the more an error will magnify at the opposite end. Just thinking out loud. I had one of these for wood working, its pretty accurate.


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## wrmiller (Dec 17, 2015)

Yup, have one of those.


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## wrmiller (Dec 19, 2015)

Got the saddle milled, drilled and tapped for the Y-axis ball nut mount.


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## wrmiller (Dec 19, 2015)

And here's the VFD control box Paul sent (I just asked for a schematic and recommend parts list...).


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## wrmiller (Dec 19, 2015)

Y-axis screw assembled, working on the X-axis ball nut mount.



Oops... Houston we have a problem. The ball nut nose OD extends below the ball nut mount surface that interfaces with the saddle. I was not given instructions about having to mill/grind a clearance pocket for the ball nut nose, so I sent Paul an email for clarification.



So I guess I've reached a stopping point until I hear back from Paul. Hopefully he isn't taking all of next week off...


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## tmarks11 (Dec 19, 2015)

Looks to me like you know what you have to do, start milling that slot!

The other choice would be to make a shim/spacer to lift the housing up, but I am guessing that if you do that you might not have enough clearance to the mill table?


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## wrmiller (Dec 19, 2015)

Good question. I think tomorrow I will flip over the mill table and test mount the ball nut mount on the saddle and slide them together to see just how much 'headroom' I have. Thanks Tim.

If lacking the necessary headroom, I already have a 3/8" ball endmill identified...  

(sure am glad I have a backup mill)


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## tmarks11 (Dec 19, 2015)

That is always the achilles heal when folks start converting a machine to cnc... unless they start with two machines, at some point all you have is a pile of parts.  You always need a manual machine standing by, even if you purchase a "complete kit", since the manufacturing variances on the smaller chinese mills invariably means machining is required.

You mentioned "handle modifications" before.  My understanding of one of the reasons you usually don't use ballscrews on a manual machine is that the ballnut friction is low enough that you can actually rotate the leadscrew by pushing on the table (never a problem with a normal acme screw).  That means you have to lock the handle in place to keep the axis from moving while machining.

How does this work?


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## wrmiller (Dec 19, 2015)

So true. I have had enough situations where a second machine saved a situation that when I move, if I have sufficient room I will likely keep El Hefe even if I do get a LMV-42.

Paul at CO was telling me that the ball screw conversion on these mills is becoming so popular that they now have a modified ball screw kit just for their manual machines. And according to him, none of his customers are complaining about the table moving, but I will have the table/saddle locks cinched down just in case as I do now for any cut more than a inch or so in length.

If the table/saddle locks are insufficient for heavier cuts, I have a idea of how I can use a quick release shaft clamp of my own design, similar to a Ruland quick clamping shaft collar. I'm a bit concerned about longevity with the Rulands because they are aluminum, but may try those to see how they hold up.


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## coolidge (Dec 19, 2015)

Look at all the cool shiny components


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## wrmiller (Dec 21, 2015)

Used the Foredom and a carbide burr to dig out a relief for the ball screw nose. We're making progress now. Next is to center the screw in the saddle and drill and tap the extra holes.


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## wrmiller (Dec 22, 2015)

More progress. Got the Y-axis ball nut mounted to the bottom of the saddle, ran the screw/nut assy through the mill base and put the saddle on the base so I can attach the two.



Next is mounting the fixed bearing block to the back of the base. One bolt in, two more to go.


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## Chris Bettis (Dec 22, 2015)

wrmiller said:


> More progress. Got the Y-axis ball nut mounted to the bottom of the saddle, ran the screw/nut assy through the mill base and put the saddle on the base so I can attach the two.
> View attachment 117117
> 
> 
> ...


Looking good Bill. Excited to see results on how well it all works. 

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## maker of things (Dec 22, 2015)

Somehow I totally missed this in my news feed.  I need to machine the raised flat on the saddle where the x nut mounts to true the ends up.  It is probably overkill, but I'm going to use that as a key to lock the nut in place along with two screws.  That I can't reasonably reach with the G0704 so I'll stop in at my FIL's and use the BP.  
  You cheated and had someone else do all the PITA figuring it out.  Looks like the 20mm ballscrews which is what most people (who aren't too pig headed like me) use on these and the rf/zx 45s as well for cnc conversions.  Probably 5 mm/rev pitch.  Did you have to open up the (not sure correct nomenclature) "silver slidey plate" to fit around the y nut?


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## wrmiller (Dec 22, 2015)

Love it when you talk technical...  

Yea, the silver slidey plate had to be opened up to clear the Y-axis ball nut mount. Clamped it down on some 123 blocks on the PM and went to town. Not a real critical dimension.


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## wrmiller (Dec 22, 2015)

Well, it was a good day. Got the Y-axis fixed bearing block mounted and everything on that axis connected and lined up except the front support block. I can grab the front of the screw in my fingers. twist it, and move the saddle back and forth with no bind. Got the oiling system hooked up too. Not bad for a hack.


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## maker of things (Dec 22, 2015)

wrmiller said:


> Love it when you talk technical...


And you used a spinny-cutty thing to open up the casting?  or an inny-outie saw?  and why did you need to use the drilly saw to make that front hole bigger?


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## wrmiller (Dec 22, 2015)

Open up the casting? You mean the top slot in the base? If that is what you mean, no I did my best to imitate a complete noob with a 4.5" angle grinder and cutting wheel. It is really ugly, but it's functional and I didn't loose any fingers or anything. The instructions said to open up the front hole so that the screw and nut can be inserted from the front. But once you screw on the ball screw nose and red loctite it per the instructions you can't remove it that way. So I made a notch in the bottom of that square hole in the back of the mill using a half round file and angled the screw assy into the base from the top. Didn't have to use the round hole cutter thingie. Need one?


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## wrmiller (Dec 23, 2015)

One particular thing I noticed is that the Y-axis screw is backwards (not a left handed screw). That will take some getting used to...


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## coolidge (Dec 23, 2015)

wrmiller said:


> One particular thing I noticed is that the Y-axis screw is backwards (not a left handed screw). That will take some getting used to...



Just crank it with your left hand


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## maker of things (Dec 23, 2015)

you can reverse the motor direction in the pull down menu...     yeah that will be an odd duck.  If you do get used to it, that will be one week before you order a knee mill.


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## maker of things (Dec 23, 2015)

If you wanted to get a little fancy it shouldn't be too hard to make a plate that bolts on the front that you could mount an auxiliary handle and mesh two gears to change the direction.


If this is becoming more popular maybe Paul will work with you to develop it, or find a source for LH thread/nuts.


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## wrmiller (Dec 23, 2015)

maker of things said:


> you can reverse the motor direction in the pull down menu...     yeah that will be an odd duck.  If you do get used to it, that will be one week before you order a knee mill.



I'm the motor here, and it's a forgone conclusion I will screw this up. (pun intended). 


Interesting that you mentioned a gear drive. I just happen to have a couple of steel gears I bought to eliminate the plastic gears in my PM25 (the Hossmachine mod), but never used them because I converted it to belt drive. They've just been sitting in a bin waiting for me to do something with them. I may have to look into this. I would be a very unhappy camper if on the final passes of machining a pocket I forget and move the handwheel the wrong way...


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## maker of things (Dec 23, 2015)

wrmiller said:


> I'm the motor here


Eww, your control circuits are all mushy.  I wouldn't trust the programming either, no matter what you put in, the processor usually just spits out the same code that it has been for the last many years.


wrmiller said:


> I would be a very unhappy camper if on the final passes of machining a pocket I forget and move the handwheel the wrong way...


I'm not normally a betting man, but if I can place one now, I'm sure to be a winner.


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## wrmiller (Dec 23, 2015)

maker of things said:


> Eww, your control circuits are all mushy.  I wouldn't trust the programming either, no matter what you put in, the processor usually just spits out the same code that it has been for the last many years.
> 
> I'm not normally a betting man, but if I can place one now, I'm sure to be a winner.


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## wrmiller (Dec 23, 2015)

Ok, finished the oiling system, and put the table on the saddle, and...wait for it... the ball nut nose hits the table in several places, lifting the table about a 1/16" or so. 

So, after some minor yelling and threatening to throw things I took a carbide burr and file to the top of the ball nut nose because I stupidly forgot I have this new angle grinder that I could have attacked the underside of the table with (the Irish in me takes over sometimes and I don't think very clearly when that happens). 

(note to self: the next mill will be ordered with EVERYTHING I want, even if it takes an extra year to scrounge the funds)

This table isn't that heavy for me, when I'm only moving it once within an hour period. But when I have to put it on and off a half-dozen times this Old Guy gets tired. Which is why I'm sitting at a bench typing this and drinking coffee. 

Current status is that I have the table on the saddle and am getting ready to mount the fixed bearing block on the right side of the table. I'm hoping for no more surprises going forward, but I still have to figure out how to get my X-axis power feed hooked to the left end of the X-axis ball screw.


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## maker of things (Dec 23, 2015)

maybe you should drink something that calms the nerves and steadies the hand


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## wrmiller (Dec 23, 2015)

maker of things said:


> maybe you should drink something that calms the nerves and steadies the hand



I am about to go do that. I hear my single-malt calling...  

I'm done for the day. Didn't get a far as I expected obviously, but the table is on, the fixed bearing block mounted, and I can turn the screw with a bare hand.


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## maker of things (Dec 23, 2015)

Have one on me.  The front of that casting surely would be ideal to mount a plate to reverse the handwheel.


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## coolidge (Dec 23, 2015)

Did you turn it through its full travel to make sure it doesn't bind at the extreme left or right table position? Now you are seeing why I said a few posts ago, take it slow, remain calm lol.


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## coolidge (Dec 23, 2015)

maker of things said:


> Have one on me.  The front of that casting surely would be ideal to mount a plate to reverse the handwheel.



Or just put a power feed on it. Yes I know all you guys scoffed when I put a power feed on my Y but I'm telling you, its awesome.

Now with the ball screws and nuts he could probably turn it with a cordless drill, I seem to recall using a cordless drill when doing my CNC conversion years ago vs hand cranking myself to exhaustion. When you get into these conversions and your putting the table on and off multiple times, yeah poor Bill I know exactly how a guy can get well, upset. lol


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## wrmiller (Dec 23, 2015)

maker of things said:


> Have one on me.  The front of that casting surely would be ideal to mount a plate to reverse the handwheel.



I am seriously considering this. There is a floating support plate that can go there for now, and I need to make an adapter/extension so I can at least get a hand wheel on there for now.



coolidge said:


> Did you turn it through its full travel to make sure it doesn't bind at the extreme left or right table position? Now you are seeing why I said a few posts ago, take it slow, remain calm lol.



I remember. 



coolidge said:


> Or just put a power feed on it. Yes I know all you guys scoffed when I put a power feed on my Y but I'm telling you, its awesome.
> 
> Now with the ball screws and nuts he could probably turn it with a cordless drill, I seem to recall using a cordless drill when doing my CNC conversion years ago vs hand cranking myself to exhaustion. When you get into these conversions and your putting the table on and off multiple times, yeah poor Bill I know exactly how a guy can get well, upset. lol



Now that's a thought. And you are probably right about the cordless drill. When moving the table back and forth I took a small needle nose vise grips and grabbed the end of the screw with it. I was turning the screw with with the vise grips and an index finger. Too cool.


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## coolidge (Dec 23, 2015)

Yeah man put a couple jam nuts on the screw and use your cordless drill and a socket. Don't take any crap off your machine, kick its ass!


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## maker of things (Dec 24, 2015)

The screws aren't machined for your hand wheels?


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## wrmiller (Dec 24, 2015)

maker of things said:


> The screws aren't machined for your hand wheels?



No, these are the same screws that are machined for the servo couplings (or whatever they are called). I'll have to make a simple sleeve for the X-axis, but will have to make an extension for the Y-axis. Not sure what I have to make yet for the X-axis power feed.


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## wrmiller (Dec 24, 2015)

I know, it's Christmas eve, but I managed to sneak out to the garage and get the adapter made for the X-axis hand wheel. Coolidge: With the gibbs adjusted to right when you start to feel it noticeably drag, the table cranks from end to end with no perceptible increase in effort at the hand wheel. Nada. Sometimes I just get lucky I guess. And the difference in feel now is night and day. Feels like a completely different machine.



I snapped a pic of the underside of the table. It's getting a bit crowded in there, but everything fits.




Have a merry Christmas everyone.


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## coolidge (Dec 24, 2015)

Now you just need to re-name it, the 12z XR71 Miller Turbo Scramjet or something.


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## wrmiller (Dec 25, 2015)

Yea, it's definitely not a stock 12z anymore. I'm running out of things to do to it.


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## Chris Bettis (Dec 25, 2015)

wrmiller said:


> Yea, it's definitely not a stock 12z anymore. I'm running out of things to do to it.


You're welcome to mod mine....  

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## JimDawson (Dec 25, 2015)

Hmmm, I'm seeing servos and a computer in your future!


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## maker of things (Dec 25, 2015)

wrmiller said:


> Feels like a completely different machine.


It should, practically the only thing still stock on there is the cast iron. lol


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## wrmiller (Dec 25, 2015)

Chris Bettis said:


> You're welcome to mod mine....
> Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk



When I get it finished with the new controls on it you'll have to stop by when you're in the neighborhood and give it a test drive. 



JimDawson said:


> Hmmm, I'm seeing servos and a computer in your future!



You know, I've been thinking along those lines. I've got so much blood (literally), sweat, and tears in this thing I'll probably have to just take it with me to AZ and finish the conversion. BUT....I'm not writing the control code! Did that on that old DARPA project and almost killed myself. I'm too old to tackle something like that again.



maker of things said:


> It should, practically the only thing still stock on there is the cast iron. lol



Yea, and even that has been 'tuned up' a bit from stock. Oh, and Chris Bettis has a shop near him that will do a Blanchard grind on the table, claiming .0005 across 40", for not very much money. I may have to do that next year some time just to get all the nicks and stuff I've put in it over the last year.


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## Chris Bettis (Dec 25, 2015)

wrmiller said:


> Paul contacted me yesterday and asked if I was using my 12z with the ball screw kit as a manual machine only, and don't intend to convert to CNC in the future. Apparently, the ball screw conversion has become popular with some of the manual machine crowd, and there are some modifications that they can do to the bearing blocks to make using hand wheels much more easy. Once the mods are done though, you can't go CNC. So they are going to go ahead and make the mods and get the stuff in the mail to me next week.
> 
> It would be cool to talk to some of the other 12z owners that have done this and other mods, but don't hang out here. Is there a forum somewhere else for CO owners? Yahoo maybe?


So what part of this prevents cnc use? Or is it cnc with their kit that wont work? Im curious. 

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## wrmiller (Dec 25, 2015)

Paul has the guys shorten the fixed bearing blocks, which is normally were the couplers and servos attach, to make it easier to put hand wheels on a manual machine. Since I've already gone through all the effort to locate, drill/thread, and align the mounting of these blocks all I would have to do is just get a couple of the un-modified blocks from Paul.

That and the Z-axis screw and mounts as I'm not doing that part. Not yet anyway.


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## coolidge (Dec 25, 2015)

wrmiller said:


> Yea, it's definitely not a stock 12z anymore. I'm running out of things to do to it.



Don't worry your friends here on the forum will help you spend more money, power draw bar for example, power feed on Z, pallet changer oh its only just begun! Merry Christmas!


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## wrmiller (Dec 25, 2015)

I don't have a big enough air compressor for a power drawbar, but I've been talking to Paul about modifying a Mach-1 to work with the belt-drive system. 

And a Merry Christmas to you as well.


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## coolidge (Dec 26, 2015)

wrmiller said:


> I don't have a big enough air compressor for a power drawbar, but I've been talking to Paul about modifying a Mach-1 to work with the belt-drive system.
> 
> And a Merry Christmas to you as well.



You can operate a power draw bar with a tiny pancake compressor from Home Depot, which is what I used during my compressor fiasco.


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## wrmiller (Jan 1, 2016)

Well, it's back alive. Except for the X-axis power feed. Still need to hang the floating support block and make some bushings for the power feed. The feel will take some getting used to, in that it's really smooth. Cool.


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## Chris Bettis (Jan 1, 2016)

Well I guess it's a good thing you have all weekend to take advantage of this "heat wave" we're about to have to finish up your x powerfeed! 
Looking good Bill. 

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## wrmiller (Jan 1, 2016)

Couldn't work out here in the shop Monday Tuesday or Wednesday. Just too cold. Today it's somewhat tolerable though the lathe is complaining more than I am. 

The PM1340 is working well though. When I made the extension for the Y-axis I kept pushing it on the ballscrew and it kept pushing itself back off. I couldn't get the air out of the hole in the extension. I was about to put it back in the lathe and put a air hole through the center when I remembered I needed to file a flat for the set screw. Had to make it a bit longer than necessary for the set screw, but it allowed the air to escape. These polished inserts for aluminum allow me to take .0003 of the diameter of a part no problem. Makes a cute chip ball that I call angel hair.


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## Chris Bettis (Jan 1, 2016)

Btw where did you get your x power feed? 

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## wrmiller (Jan 1, 2016)

Power feed was from CO. Got mine installed this afternoon. Only thing left now is the new control box.


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## Chris Bettis (Jan 1, 2016)

Ok. I was just curious because there are some less expensive powerfeed options but most seem to be designed around the smaller rf45 table sizes. Not sure how compatible they would be. 

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## wrmiller (Jan 1, 2016)

The one from CO literally just bolted on. Are all the different make/models the same? I would think they all should be of a similar power/torque. Maybe some minor fitment issues between makes? I honestly don't know.


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## Chris Bettis (Jan 1, 2016)

wrmiller said:


> The one from CO literally just bolted on. Are all the different make/models the same? I would think they all should be of a similar power/torque. Maybe some minor fitment issues between makes? I honestly don't know.


Id imagine power and torque levels are similar. But all of the variations of table size and depth as well as lead screw diameter etc. I cant imagine they are all interchangeable. Without mild to moderate machining to adapt the variations. Not that I mind making parts  but if im gonna buy something id rather it fit right if im gonna make something ill make all of it. Then again I may be totally wrong.. 

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## wrmiller (Jan 1, 2016)

Hmmm... Power feed, DRO, 3 hp motor upgrade, belt drive, etc., etc. Going to be busy eh? (and broke...trust me I know the feeling)  

Basically it took me just over a year to get everything I wanted done to this thing. Now I can concentrate on projects again. Like a new 2011 in .40 S&W, some new fixtures for the shop, and possibly a bolt action. Should be a good year.


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## Chris Bettis (Jan 1, 2016)

wrmiller said:


> Hmmm... Power feed, DRO, 3 hp motor upgrade, belt drive, etc., etc. Going to be busy eh? (and broke...trust me I know the feeling)
> 
> Basically it took me just over a year to get everything I wanted done to this thing. Now I can concentrate on projects again. Like a new 2011 in .40 S&W, some new fixtures for the shop, and possibly a bolt action. Should be a good year.


Yeah. And I still need a bigger lathe too. The dro, one shot oiler, and power feeds are the big ones though. I can work well with those. Not that I can't work without them but the time savings working with them is the huge. The 3hp and belt drive likely won't happen for a couple years no matter how much I want to copycat your mill. 
I also need to look at buying a house next year something with a large garage of my own. Trying to tell my girlfriend we should just build a large metal building on  some land then a kitchen and bathroom but I don't  think she will go for that. 
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## wrmiller (Jan 2, 2016)

Chris Bettis said:


> Yeah. And I still need a bigger lathe too. The dro, one shot oiler, and power feeds are the big ones though. I can work well with those. Not that I can't work without them but the time savings working with them is the huge. The 3hp and belt drive likely won't happen for a couple years no matter how much I want to copycat your mill.
> I also need to look at buying a house next year something with a large garage of my own. Trying to tell my girlfriend we should just build a large metal building on  some land then a kitchen and bathroom but I don't  think she will go for that.
> Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk



Yeah, forgot about the lathe.

You would have loved this: We found what was basically a barn for sale on a rather large horse ranch. A new barn mind you, with a concrete floor, very well lit, and insulated/heated/cooled. Plenty of room to park the cars, trucks, combine, etc.. The South East corner of the building was walled in, with a couple of regular looking wood doors. We walked in and there was this gorgeous apartment, with a living/family room with windows to the outside, island kitchen (with rather expensive built-ins), half-bath, and another room that was a combo laundry/mud room much like we have now. The upstairs had a very large bedroom with large master bath and walk-in closets. Wife loved it. I loved it. Unfortunately, it was in GA and there is little in the way of a high-tech job market there. 

Otherwise I'd be living in this monster-sized shop with a built-in apartment.


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## maker of things (Jan 2, 2016)

I'll take an old, non-descript airplane hanger with elevated living quarters right in middle surrounded by classy cars/airplanes/boats and a complete shop while you are handing out dream properties.  Ideally close to good fishing if you can swing it.


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## Chris Bettis (Jan 2, 2016)

You can still buy land cheap here. Unfortunately that would also require a 3 hr drive to work. Out in the middle of nowhere here its realistic to buy 10+ acres and build something much like bill mentioned. For 150k problem is anything within 2 hrs of anything has gone up 25- 30% since the stoners moved in. 

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## JimDawson (Jan 2, 2016)

maker of things said:


> I'll take an old, non-descript airplane hanger with elevated living quarters right in middle surrounded by classy cars/airplanes/boats and a complete shop while you are handing out dream properties.  Ideally close to good fishing if you can swing it.



Hmmmm, just like Dirk Pitt  Yeah,I could do that


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## maker of things (Jan 3, 2016)

JimDawson said:


> Hmmmm, just like Dirk Pitt


Yup, all they way back from when I was 13.  I don't actually remember him listing a shop in there too, but I figure that was just understood.


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## middle.road (Jan 4, 2016)

A guy near us moved & rebuilt his old family home (from some small town south of here), brick-by-brick.
He added a lower level to it for shop space and had radiant heat running through out.
Then, since it was on a small airstrip, he was retired USAF, he build a hanger that had full climate control
-PLUS- radiant floor heating...
He fiancée was from Colorado and didn't care for east TN. He upped and sold off everything, including his planes
and moved out to CO...
It was quite the setup. Of course it was ~$450K, but what a shop.


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## David VanNorman (Mar 24, 2016)

If you are talking about the green machine on the end of the  lead screw it is a magnetic drill. Handy as the devil for many things.


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