# should I replace 10k Lathe wicks



## YoungTurner (Apr 29, 2017)

As the title suggests, how does one decide his lathe needs new oil wicks? Seems like everyone who works on these lathes talks about the wicks but does not specify an age or way to tell if they are bad.
I bought a rather dusty but unworn 10k lathe, number 7340KAR8, in 2008. Long story short I'm finally getting around to putting it to some use making a backlog of planned projects and I don't want to ruin this fine machine right out of the gate. 

I also have the original South Bend oils in their rectangle cans that came with it.
Is this oil okay to use after all these years?

Thank you in advance for any help.


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 30, 2017)

YoungTurner said:


> As the title suggests, how does one decide his lathe needs new oil wicks? Seems like everyone who works on these lathes talks about the wicks but does not specify an age or way to tell if they are bad.
> I bought a rather dusty but unworn 10k lathe, number 7340KAR8, in 2008. Long story short I'm finally getting around to putting it to some use making a backlog of planned projects and I don't want to ruin this fine machine right out of the gate.
> 
> I also have the original South Bend oils in their rectangle cans that came with it.
> ...


If it is an older vintage machine, especially one that is in good shape, I would replace the wicks. Why take the chance, they might still be flowing oil, but they might not. At least change the spindle wicks and flush the apron and the headstock of the old oil and replace with fresh oil. I would get new oil and keep the old original cans as collectibles.


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## swbrooks (Apr 30, 2017)

Good morning,  the serial number would place your lathe around 1960 so it's probably time to clean everything.   I would suggest at the very LEAST that you drain all of the oil from the headstock (remove the gits oil fillers to let it drain out) and then repeat a couple of time to get fresh oil into the bearings.  Do the same thing on the apron by removing the oil drain plug at the bottom of the apron.  If the oil has been kept closed and it's clean, oil will last a very long time so I don't think that's an issue.  I still have cans from the 1950s that are just fine.    Make sure you're using the correct lube for the spindle.  The SBL part number for the spindle oil was CE1600.  Don't use anything heavier.  The apron oil was also CE1600 the same as the spindle.   If you're inclined, it's probably time to consider stripping the lathe down completely, cleaning it thoroughly and rebuilding it. There are quite a few felt oil retention felts and oilers inside the lathe that get clogged up and hard over time and they will not feed oil properly.  It takes time but it is certainly worth it.  These lathes will last forever if they are properly maintained and cared for.  Worst culprit for lathe destruction over time is lack of lubrication and not keeping it clean.    Regards, Steve


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## YoungTurner (Apr 30, 2017)

Greg, brooks,
Thank you for your replies. Sounds like I will be ordering some wicks and I'll likely get some fresh oil. I agree with Greg,these would look nice as collectibles next to the Valvoline and Chevron Cardboard cans on the shelf. 
Brooks has now got me wanting to open this thing up and really see what is working and what is plugged up. I was going to get it from my Dads garage and put it in my shop today. Unfortunately I now have a fever so that is going to get delayed till next weekend (possibly longer if the honey do list gets amended before then). But I read the SB 9a restoration thread and I think I will purchase the wick kit and manual from Ebay ,unless anyone has a better idea of where to get the wicks and manual. That will give me some time to read and understand what I'm doing before I roll this thing into the shop and start the tear down.

Just for interest, the story I was given by the owner of this lathe was that his father was an engineer from Grumman, and bought this lathe new to prototype parts for NASA projects. Knowing now the vintage that story might actually be true. Among the stuff that came with the lathe is the original packing slip and documents from the day it was delivered. I even have the original lubrication chart.

Thank you again Greg and Brooks for your time and replies.


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 30, 2017)

The wicks and manual off of ebay are good quality, I used them on my heavy 10L restoration. The rebuild manual is good to keep around for future use too, it is like an owners manual on steroids. It will tell you way more about the machine than the original manual ever did. 
And congratulations on getting such a cool old south bend! Welcome to the club.


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## Rick Berk (Apr 30, 2017)

Your old oil is fine to use, Oil does not go bad.


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## Surprman (Apr 30, 2017)

Definitely pull it all apart and replace all the felts - you will like knowing they are all working.  BTW- Different people sell oil "sets"; A (spindle), B (countershaft), C (most everything else) and D (way oil).  Buy the whole kit and it will last a long time (even with liberal usage) a except C - you use so much of that you will want to get an whole gallon of that right away too.

Below is a (sideways) picture with all the oils.  I recently switched to C oil in the cone pulley and back gear (vice teflon grease - or what is shown in the picture).  There are plenty of opinions on that.  I just know that when I was taking heaven cuts in back gear using grease, the cone pully was getting slightly warm.  When I switched to oil it stayed nice and cool.  Granted I need to oil more frequently, but I oil it everywhere frequently anyway....

Rick


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## ironhorse18 (Jun 11, 2017)

I have a S.B. CL175c.  It's been sitting for several years.  The wicks are pretty dirty I'm sure.  Where can I buy new wicks and how about instruction on replacing the wicks??  I've done some looking, so far no luck on instructions.

Thank you,
ironhorse18@frontier.com

Logan 821
Bench 8" grinder
Floor mount grinder 8"
Stick welder
Wire Hobart Welder
Two Torch Sets
Pro Cut 30" Mill
Need more toy's, I mean tools............

Cranky old vet.


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## whitmore (Jun 11, 2017)

ironhorse18 said:


> I have a S.B. CL175c.  It's been sitting for several years.  The wicks are pretty dirty I'm sure.  Where can I buy new wicks and how about instruction on replacing the wicks??


This YouTube presentation caught my eye (my old lathe needs oilers, too).   

<



>
...from  Steve Jordan aka 'titanium5160'

Basically, he suggests that hobby shops catering to candle and oil lamp makers, have suitable
wicks.   Sure enough, Hobby Lobby does...


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## YoungTurner (Jun 12, 2017)

I found the ebay wicks seem to be good quality and the book is very detailed and informative. I would suggest if you don't get the wicks from ebay, At least get the book. It shows complete disassembly of the lathes.


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## woodtickgreg (Jun 12, 2017)

What he said ^


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## parklandworks (May 6, 2021)

I really appreciate all the good information in here. I just acquired an SB 10K lathe husband the last 10 or 15 years being ignored in the corner of The tool Room of the sheet metal production facility. I'm so eager to use the thing I was considering bypassing any inspection and going straight to adding oil and making cuts. This thread has me thinking otherwise. I don't want to be a hack, I'm just tired of having tools torn apart in my shop and would rather use a tool than dive into a restoration.
Thanks


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## SLK001 (May 6, 2021)

parklandworks said:


> I'm just tired of having tools torn apart in my shop and would rather use a tool than dive into a restoration.



Well, if the wicks are bad, you won't have to worry about diving into a restoration - you'll be hauling it to the scrap yard.  Replacing the wicks isn't that difficult of a job (get the kit and manual shown above).  

Would you start a car that has been sitting in a corner for 15+ years without doing even the most basic of maintenance?


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## parklandworks (May 6, 2021)

SLK001 said:


> Well, if the wicks are bad, you won't have to worry about diving into a restoration - you'll be hauling it to the scrap yard.  Replacing the wicks isn't that difficult of a job (get the kit and manual shown above).
> 
> Would you start a car that has been sitting in a corner for 15+ years without doing even the most basic of maintenance?


You're not wrong, I'm just momentarily grumpy at my lack of foresight, and that first chips are farther into the future than I had hoped.


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