# What have you done in your shop lately?



## nnam

Sorry if this thread was there already.  A quick search didn't show up.

I had a hick up with my Leblond lathe.  The other day, I turned it on, and it stopped working.  The speed change didn't work.  Sometimes, it doesn't even turn on.  The speed is wrong.  Loud noise.  Contactor popped.  All sort of problems.  I thought it could be multiple problems.  I recalled vaguely that the noise appears to be louder lately when I ran it.  But my memory wasn't that solid on this.

I searched and searched on Leblond, especially about the servo issue.  I couldn't find much, although I thought I read it before about a fix.  There are fixes out there such as switching to manual speed control, partially switching over VFD and keeping the servo for larger gear change, and replace some cracked plastic dial.

There wasn't much video or info of disassembly.

So I took off the top, then took some courage to remove the speed change assembly on top.  It's only 4 bolts. There are 3 linkages below.  2 for the changing forks and 1 for connecting with the front dial knob, which is also a fork type.  So they just slide out easily.

I checked the gears that I can see and they look good, which is a good sign.  At worse, I may just go with VFD route.

I partially disassembled the hydraulic spool valve speed change unit, and here's what I found:

It is 2 metal parts sandwiching plastic fluid routing parts.  The metal parts are the two hydraulic cylinders actuating the changing fork.
The bolts holding them together are very loose (not falling apart loose, just much looser than finger wrench tight).

There are 4 plastic pieces.  Two rigid piece on top and bottom.  The middle is sliding with the control of the speed dial knob on the front.  So when you change the speed on the dial, it re-route the hydraulic spool valve. But that means the pump doesn't run, or doesn't provide enough pressure to change it while the lathe is running.  The pump would work and move the hydraulic actuators if it detects a 0 speed and also the electronic wiring from the front dial signal a change from previous value.

A 4th plastic piece is a round "gear" rotating along with the fork from the front speed dial.  That round piece provides at least 3 functions:  1. Provides min and max dial position, 2. Drive the middle piece to change to linear motion, allowing various hole patterns to route the hydraulic oil.  3, it provides feedback to the front dial of "step/quantize" selection.  So the front dial is not a continuous selector (which makes sense with gear change).

I was able to sand down 1 metal piece to make it flat again (from various light ridges).  The other side appears to have many spin pin that I can't remove, so I didn't sand it down.  Since I didn't remove the hydraulic pump actuator, my worry while doing that was contamination.  So I always hold it with holes pointing down, wiped, clean carefully.

The plastic appears to be ok.  I put them back, torque a bit harder.  That didn't work.  It's too hard to slide.  So I had to lessen the bolts. At the end, it's still tighter, but not very tight.

That did reduce the "step" feedback greatly on the front dial, which is a concern for me.  When I tested it with the top open, and only doing speed change, not rotating spindle, there are 4 ways that oil can spray out and can give an oil shower.  Front, back, left and right.  The left and right only happens exclusively, depending high or low gear selection ( I think below or above 300 rpm, not remember exactly). So that is helpful, since I can just block it up with a towel and one hand.

The front and back is not that bad, but can also be helped with a towel.  But some how my memory tell me one case it did it both left right, and I put a towel on one end while block the other, but not 100% sure about this.

Another concern I have is tighten it would eventually break the round plastic part.

I also cleaned up the contacts of the 0 speed sensor.  Increased the fluid pressure on the back electric panel a bit.  I didn't hook up a pressure gauge to check.  I think it should be between 200 and 250 psi (or 300psi?) as spec.

The lathe runs much smoother and no electrical issue.  I noticed before the reason for the noise was that the lathe was stuck in the beginning running slow speed (even with high speed settings).  It starts slow, growling, then kicks to higher speed and smooth.

Now, that actually also happens, but mostly gone for lower speed range.  For higher speed, the slow period various, with highest 1200 rpm, it may take 2 or 3 seconds.

Can someone please tell me if this is normal?  My rotary converter has somewhat balanced voltages among 3 branches, and a little off when not powering a machine (when not powering a machine, I recall it's something 122v, 132v and 138v).

Another issue I have is somehow the middle "B" selector of the thread cutting dial range is very hard to engage.  The dial is broken, so maybe, just maybe it's that, but I just can't even feel anything "engaged" when I move it to the middle.  After a very long time, I ended up get it to engaged and produce correct ratio.
When not engaged correctly, it either doesn't turn the screw rod, run at the higher or lower settings.  When it runs, no noisy sound, so I hope that is good.
I hope there is some guide removing this assembly, since I have some oil leak on this part.  My fault when I transport the late.  The handle pointed down.  So it was pressed against something (even when I put a 2x4 below), maybe when the 2x4 was off.  But it broken.  That also puts pressure on the metal shaft and damaged the seal.

Another thing I have been doing lately was getting my horizontal mill to a better condition.  The left horizontal table's dial never work (it has a square end, maybe for using a wrench or connecting a power feed).  I took it out and a spring pin between the shaft and the gear broken off.  So I will replace it.  I also found the bronze bushing wore out.  I made another one for that.

The main cause (I think) was because the cast iron casing wasn't working correctly somehow.  The cap wasn't in all flush.  Deep inside there were some uneven surfaces and grooves.  I ended up making the square shaft turn smoothly by using rotary tool to cut out those grooves, then use sand paper wrapped around a large socket to smooth the inside out (yes, very low precision, versus cutting it via a mill).  It works smoothly now.

I still need to replace a broken "canvas" in the back of the Z-table protecting the chips falling down onto the screw rod.  Anyone have any suggestion?  I am thinking about using a piece of leather, like a cut out from an old leather couch or a welder apron.  What material would best suit for this?  I think it may needs to have some "folding" pattern so it can fold into a Z shape when collapsed.

Sorry for the long post, whiny post


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## nnam

I forgot to mention that I also removed the hydraulic filter, filled it with 99% alcohol and using air to reverse blow it out several times.  This probably helps cleaned up the oil greatly and help the lathe run super smooth and rather "quiet".  I do hope to install a much larger filter, but not sure it would fit because the hoses are stiff and may not bend for larger filter, unless I use a new hose.  They look like ntp type fittings.

A bad part as I said above is that the filter appears to work only when changing the speed.  I hope I am wrong on this.  I thought the hydraulic pump is also used for lubration, but maybe only splash lubrication is used.  If that is true, then the filter is rarely used.  The previous owner had lots of chips inside this.  Good think it didn't bomb the gears or the bearings.  I cleaned it up before and changed oil.  I probably left some in the filter and I didn't clean the filter.  By the way, using rubber plugs, removing the filter to clean is not a big oily mess, but some are still spilled, so I was prepared for that with lots of paper + towel on the floor.


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## benmychree

This post reinforces a piece of advice that I was given nearly 55m years ago by a machinist friend; stay away from LeBlond servo shift lathes ---
So far as the chip guard is considered, "diaphragm rubber" sheet is a good choice, it is made of oil resistant rubber with fabric sandwiched in the middle.


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## mmcmdl

I'm still in the process of sorting things out in the shops . As far as the servo shift Leblonds , I had 3 of them and never had any issues .


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## nnam

benmychree said:


> This post reinforces a piece of advice that I was given nearly 55m years ago by a machinist friend; stay away from LeBlond servo shift lathes ---
> So far as the chip guard is considered, "diaphragm rubber" sheet is a good choice, it is made of oil resistant rubber with fabric sandwiched in the middle.


Thank you for the rubber piece info.
I just thought about tread mill belt. Very durable and thick fabric.  I have several pieces laying around.  I will see if that works also.


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## nnam

mmcmdl said:


> I'm still in the process of sorting things out in the shops . As far as the servo shift Leblonds , I had 3 of them and never had any issues .


How did you have 3 lathes  ?  Over the time?  If I have a huge shop, I don't mind having 2 though.


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## benmychree

mmcmdl said:


> I'm still in the process of sorting things out in the shops . As far as the servo shift Leblonds , I had 3 of them and never had any issues .


Still, perhaps one should approach buying one with some caution, at least see it work properly.


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## nnam

Yesterday and today, I re-organize my shop.  I moved the mill next to my lathe.  I think I would do alot more since they share a 3 phase converter.
I also do a major clean up, re-organize pretty much everything.

I also ordered a Bap 400R-63-22 head with NT40.  I can't wait to play with it.


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## mmcmdl

What I'm doing tonight definitely deserves a picture , unfortunately no camera in here . A while back , someone asked for reasons that required the head swung on a knee mill . I'll show you a very good reason tomorrow !  This could turn into a disaster


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## benmychree

Two hours cleaning and organizing for one hour work; about average --- I have spent about two weeks C&O for a one day event of out local Hobby machinist group meeting next weekend, not done yet!


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## Creativechipper

Repurposed some electric motor mounts into tool holders on the backsplash of lathe. Used some super magnets (8mm) to temporarily hang the holders, while I test and position them.

Not sure if the new holders will be in the way or not yet...?


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## Boswell

Creativechipper said:


> Repurposed some electric motor mounts



You Gota LOVE that wallpaper !


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## Bamban

Barrels in varying completion for our junior shooters. Thanks to Shilen Rifles for their generous donation of barrel blanks to the kids.

I have been busy.


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## Creativechipper

What sort of process to get a blank to a barrel, and how long does it normally take for one?

Looks like a ton of work completed!!


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## benmychree

Boswell said:


> You Gota LOVE that wallpaper !


Crazy! Why I did not notice it the first time I looked at the picture, I don't know, guess I just focused on the tool holders --- spare bedroom shop?


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## Creativechipper

Yep room came with the lovely wallpaper, it's a spare room shop, mostly shop now


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## will.mcray

Finished a Baldor 1215W grinder conversion to a 12 inch buffer. Works great. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Before.   
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bamban

Creativechipper said:


> What sort of process to get a blank to a barrel, and how long does it normally take for one?
> 
> Looks like a ton of work completed!!



The blanks I get come in ready to chamber and contour. I do not start from solid bar of steel, barrel makers do the boring and cutting the rifling.


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## mmcmdl

Love that  Bota ! Lost power  last night in at work . Rented a tractor trailer sized generator which wasn't working correctly so they are in process of bringing one down from New Jersey . Should be there around 1.30 so it's off to work once again for the 4rth time in 2 days . One of our transformers blew last night and put a crater in the ground . Exciting for sure .


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## Aukai

That will get your attention.


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## Karl_T

Just seen this...

I repaired my servo shift last year. Got several manuals if you need them.

First did the electrical like you did. Mostly cleaned contacts and removed swarf and debris. Found a couple bad wire connections. then changed oil and replaced filter. Removed sludge and chips from bottom of gear box. Still sluggish shifting at best. Put a pressure gauge on pump line and found it way below 300 psi. The relief is just a hole in a fitting. got new fitting and put in a smaller hole to bump up pressure.

Now she runs and shifts like a brand new lathe.

BTW, I disagree with the fella about avoiding servo shifts.  I trained in vo-teck in 1980 on this lathe and LOVED it. Went looking specifically for this lathe for a year and found one last summer.  This is a seriously well made accurate rigid lathe made to run for decades.


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## BROCKWOOD

Sent a couple of motors to the motor shop, so no machining for now. 

Well, I'm nuts about bolts & picked this down time to start organizing them. 1st pic is old bolts that I'm cleaning & getting ready to organize into Durham Boxes. 1/4 pan is soaking in Evaporust. 2nd pic is 4 Durham boxes organized & sorted for no6 - 1/4. 4 more Durham boxes are on order to house 5/16 - 1/2. Then the pans in the 1st pic will only have to hold the longest bolts.







Yeah, I outgrew my intended plastic box for 6 - 10. Put all them in their own Durham boxes & my 12 size is in the plastic box. 1/4 is the open box in the foreground. 

I know, I know:  This is a rebolting subject to be screwing around with............................


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## Firstgear

BROCKWOOD said:


> Sent a couple of motors to the motor shop, so no machining for now.
> 
> Well, I'm nuts about bolts & picked this down time to start organizing them. 1st pic is old bolts that I'm cleaning & getting ready to organize into Durham Boxes. 1/4 pan is soaking in Evaporust. 2nd pic is 4 Durham boxes organized & sorted for no6 - 1/4. 4 more Durham boxes are on order to house 5/16 - 1/2. Then the pans in the 1st pic will only have to hold the longest bolts.
> 
> View attachment 294515
> 
> 
> View attachment 294516
> 
> 
> Yeah, I outgrew my intended plastic box for 6 - 10. Put all them in their own Durham boxes & my 12 size is in the plastic box. 1/4 is the open box in the foreground.
> 
> I know, I know:  This is a rebolting subject to be screwing around with............................


lots of work, but do it once and it's done and you will save time finding what you need when you need it!


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## nnam

Karl_T said:


> Just seen this...
> 
> I repaired my servo shift last year. Got several manuals if you need them.
> 
> First did the electrical like you did. Mostly cleaned contacts and removed swarf and debris. Found a couple bad wire connections. then changed oil and replaced filter. Removed sludge and chips from bottom of gear box. Still sluggish shifting at best. Put a pressure gauge on pump line and found it way below 300 psi. The relief is just a hole in a fitting. got new fitting and put in a smaller hole to bump up pressure.
> 
> Now she runs and shifts like a brand new lathe.
> 
> BTW, I disagree with the fella about avoiding servo shifts.  I trained in vo-teck in 1980 on this lathe and LOVED it. Went looking specifically for this lathe for a year and found one last summer.  This is a seriously well made accurate rigid lathe made to run for decades.


This is great.  Can you please send me the manuals or share download links?


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## nnam

benmychree said:


> Two hours cleaning and organizing for one hour work; about average --- I have spent about two weeks C&O for a one day event of out local Hobby machinist group meeting next weekend, not done yet!


I wish I followed this rule a long time ago. The last several days are all out cleaning and sorting, organizing.  Very tiring, but very rewarding.  I still have a large miscellaneois box to sort outs, large box of screws, bolts and nuts to sort out also.  Currently, I focus on big items.  Once things are better, I get to smaller items which will take alot of time. 

It also turns out as I clean up the shop, I clean up basement, shed, etc.  They need room to store things.  It feel good to remove, sell, give away things I don't need anymore, and find things I needed before, but didn't know where or even forgot I have them.


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## westerner

Boswell said:


> You Gota LOVE that wallpaper !


NO, you do NOT!


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## BROCKWOOD

No-one should have to love that wall paper. It reminds me of the pastel pinks & greens that people would paint their bathrooms in the 30s & 40s. Yes, this wallpaper was an improvement & probably helped a lot of kids decide to say NO to drugs in the 60s as they hugged the toilet. But it really does belong in the past.  Now, there are good parts of any past too. The subject does have that clean out, organize feeling at the moment, so I'll combine the 2 on my 1/4 - 20 bolt cleaning by saying:  Valve cover bolts.  A sampling of what I cleaned up today:




I'm like a kid that disappears all day because Mom made him go & clean out his closet. (Yes, yes, it did work on me every time). LOL  I see Ford Y Block (312 Interceptor), Chrysler 318 (Poly). Chrysler LA (old & new) & Chrysler RB.  Not sure of the last one though.  I like period correct on some things, so this is fun.  Anyone else?


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## Karl_T

nnam said:


> This is great.  Can you please send me the manuals or share download links?


sent by PM


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## nnam

BROCKWOOD said:


> No-one should have to love that wall paper.



One should be in their prime health to have a spinning lathe and looking into that wall flower


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## Aukai

The wall paper may not be fashionable now, but it brings back memories of my grand mothers house, and those were good memories.


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## Creativechipper

Just happy my wife is letting me use the spare room.


 She's like it smells funny in there..lol

 That and ornamental projects not ranking very hi on the list, would rather machine something


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## nnam

Yesterday, I was making an adapter ring, about 5" inner diameter, 1/16" thick and 1" width for getting a wheel balancer to handle a larger wheel.

The cutting was a bit nerve wrecking since I clamp it inside out with a 3 jaw chuck and cutting so close to the chuck jaws making me nervous.

I can definitely shim it to give some space, but I was in the "wheel balancing urge, not lathing urge".  However, I was really worry while doing that, and as a result, twice I saved myself cutting to the jaws, which would make me not forgive myself for doing so.

At the end, I left about 1/16 not cut, and filed down with a file.  But that's not very good, and may contribute to my problem later on with the wheel balancer.  So now, I am thinking of doing it the right way.

I know some glue it up to a larger piece when doing thin cutting, then use heat to release the glue.

I am thinking of shimming between the jaws and the ring on the inner circle, and also between the back of the piece and the jaws, if I can find a good even size shim.

How do you deal with things like this?


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## JimDawson

I normally use about a 1/16 shim between the part and the chuck.


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## nnam

Today, I just wanted to use the lathe.  So I took a piece of rusted steel about 1.25" round rod and cut it down to to remove rust, bent, dents.  Basically making it shiny and smooth for whatever purpose I need.  That works pretty well for a 10" piece.  So I took another one.  This is much longer.  Similar to the 10", I also use a live center to keep it rigid.  It worked very well for more than half of it, since the other part is clamped inside the chuck.  I then flipped it over and cut it more.  The cut was super ugly.  So I looked at the carbide insert, it looks bad.  I rotated it and it cuts a bit better, but still pretty bad.  I think with carbide, I have to cut at least 10 thous to have decent surface.  If I cut 5 thous, it just wanders too much.  I wonder if that is correct or something else here.  The triangle carbide insert was ground down by previous owner.  That cut very well.  When I rotated it, I didn't grind it down, just kept it regular.  The ground down was mostly to increase the relief angle.

I think I probably need a steady rest also.


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## mmcmdl

We just about have the plant up and running once again after our electrical episode last week . The generator was un-hooked 1 o'clock this afternoon and we are almost finished re-installing all the dies and bringing the furnaces and heaters online . Non stop night tonight .


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## rock_breaker

Last week I finished some T nuts and an alignment test bar.  The T nuts are for my rotary table, and I need about 4 more plus a way to hold a chuck on it. Still chasing a 0.0003' difference in the ends of the 10" test bar. I didn't tighten the gibs on the compound slide on the final 0.001 cut. Maybe will try another cut tomorrow.
Have a good day
Ray


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## ThinWoodsman

Yesterday I finally finished a vise stand. The vise on my bench was too high for good filing technique, but perfect for just about everything else. I bought a second vise (nice big one with rotating jaws) to use just for filing.

Since I am not a welder and also metal is expensive, I used some of the scrap wood I have lying around. I did a po' boy laminate of two 4x4s: wood glue and 3/8 allthread to cinch them together. Found some not-quite butcher block from an old counter I had hung onto, and used that for the top. Plywood and 2x4s for the base and the braces. The 4x4s are directly under the vise base so it is plenty sturdy. I nailed some 1/2" plywood under the top and made it a couple inches wider than the top, drilled holes in it to hold tons of files. Came out pretty good.

Anyways, yesterday I was pouring concrete for the posts of a woodshed, and mixed up an extra bag to pour into the base of the vise stand. Should be a nice improvement.


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## DiscoDan

Don't have pics right now but I am making a new aluminum quick change gear box lever for my 12" Craftsman lathe. Both of the originals were broken. I have replacement's bought on flea bay but I want to finish what I started. It is all roughed out at this point. Will post pics when I get back from my nieces wedding.


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## nnam

DiscoDan said:


> Don't have pics right now but I am making a new aluminum quick change gear box lever for my 12" Craftsman lathe. Both of the originals were broken. I have replacement's bought on flea bay but I want to finish what I started. It is all roughed out at this point. Will post pics when I get back from my nieces wedding.


Making a lever or fix my current on is in my list also.


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## nnam

ThinWoodsman said:


> Yesterday I finally finished a vise stand. The vise on my bench was too high for good filing technique, but perfect for just about everything else. I bought a second vise (nice big one with rotating jaws) to use just for filing.


I recently learned the fascinating info about files, here is the link for newbies like me:

Nicholson file guide


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## ThinWoodsman

nnam said:


> I recently learned the fascinating info about files, here is the link for newbies like me:
> 
> Nicholson file guide



Yeah the File Filosophy book is great 

I've found I enjoy file work. Keep buying more files and taking on more manual projects. It all kinda started when I was deburring some stock cut on the bandsaw - just kept going, a half-hour later the piece was finished.


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## mmcmdl

Heading up to the Adirondacks for a couple days in an hour to open up camp . I'm a month later than usual due to my work schedule and SNOW so I'm hoping the black flies aren't going to eat me alive . When I get back it will be sell sell sell time and hopefully will be able to set up a small shop with minimal machines and tooling . My daughter may be moving back home next week after 7 years away at college so some things have to find a new home . Anyways , the dogs are ready for some camping fun and food , they really enjoy being able to run the woods , and I need a few days away from work . 

( not that camping primitive isn't work , I bust my butt just to eat )


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## DiscoDan

DiscoDan said:


> Don't have pics right now but I am making a new aluminum quick change gear box lever for my 12" Craftsman lathe. Both of the originals were broken. I have replacement's bought on flea bay but I want to finish what I started. It is all roughed out at this point. Will post pics when I get back from my nieces wedding.



While I am working on my aluminum version I did manage to buy two non-matching handles off that auction site so I can get the qcgb back on and functional. Here are pics of the two replacement's plus the two I am fabbing.


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## homebrewed

Here's something I've been working on for a bit.  Didn't do any machining on it today (yesterday, yes) but took the photo today.  While it's one of the more precision things I've done as a relatively inexperienced machine-er (I won't claim the title of 'machinist') it is far from much of what I've seen here.  In my defense, it's an idea being explored -- revealing a number of shortcomings, some obvious some not-so.  I don't want to engage in a "what is it" quiz because that would likely degrade pretty quickly.  So, the reveal is:  it's an experimental sine table combined with a shallow-jaw vise so I can machine some tapers for yet another experiment.




The sine table is made of 6061 because I had it on hand.  The sine table is on the upper left, showing two drilled brass cylinders resting in vees so they can rotate as the table is raised.  The contact portions of the vees were cut with a carbide 45 degree router bit.  Underneath, two more brass rolls in vees.  Spaced 5 inches apart.  One of the problems with this design:  Placing the hold-downs (meant to screw into a tooling plate I made) on the outside of the bottom rolls can bend the center of the table up, so tapers won't be linear if the bolts are tightened too much.  I KNOW this because I checked (after I thought about it)!  Placing the hold downs on the other side of the rolls can produce bend in the opposite direction so the next version will have the top and bottom rolls coincident, hopefully eliminating most problems due to hold down forces bending the table.  The bottom rolls will be modified to accommodate -- either cut shorter, or machined with holes so the bolts can pass through them.  I think holes are better so the table can't bend on the other axis.

I drilled/tapped two holes in the sine table-top to mount a sacrificial "fixed jaw", made of hot-rolled steel.  The vertical face of the jaw was milled flat, but not ground or scraped.  I don't have a surface grinder and have no clue on how to scrape something only .125" wide.  On the other hand, I'm aiming at making some tapered gibs so that is not a real issue anyway.

In the lower right portion of the photo is the "moveable jaw" of the vise portion.  1/8" thick, the horizontal portion is sacrificial hardware store aluminum and is bolted down to a .5"  square piece of HRS.  The side of the sine table was drilled/tapped to accept three 10-24 mounting bolts, and the HRS was clearance-drilled and counter-sunk to match.  At that point, the HRS piece was bolted to the sine table and both were milled until mutually flat.  I rotated the table up 90 degrees and drilled two more holes on each side of the moveable jaw's center screw, and reamed them for a press fit to two 3/16" x 1" dowel pins (shown projecting out of the sine table).  I later reamed the HRS piece for a clearance fit for the dowels.  They were meant to keep the moveable jaw from rotating as it is tightened against work.  The 3 horizontal screws are used to clamp the work. Issues here, see below.

So another problem is lift of the moveable jaw due to over-tightening of the 3 screws (due to flex of the dowel pins).  I tried to minimize this by making a jaw that is just-barely wide enough to accommodate the material I want to machine (so the dowel pins have maximum contact with the jaw), but they are just two 3/16" pins seated .5" into the sine table.  Not super rigid.  But this IS a trial run -- eventually I need to make a larger one so I can make some 5" long tapered gibs, and this one isn't long enough for that.  But is IS long enough to try making tapered gibs for the Y axis of my mini mill. 

A second, longer, version may have more pins to improve the rigidity of the moveable jaw (but see concerns below).  I think I also will make the sine table taller (in the Y axis) so I can put some bolts in to prevent the moveable jaw from lifting up with regard to the table -- with careful adjustment, that should keep the moveable jaw from lifting.  My current version is too small to accommodate them.  Oh well....

A final issue is that, while the moveable jaw DOES slide onto the dowel pins there is about zero tolerance for misalignment.  To move the jaw up to the work I have to wiggle it down, pushing one side down then the other.  Pulling it back is even more problematic.  I thought the sharp edges between the holes and exterior surfaces might be digging into the pins and relieved them with a conical grinder bit, but that didn't make any difference.

So the plan for now is to make the table wider and deeper, so I can make longer gibs.  Steel would be better than aluminum, but I need to check what I've got in that category.  The table hold downs and bottom rolls will be coincident.  And I will include 2-3 top bolts to keep the moveable jaw from lifting up as it is tightened against the work.  Hopefully I can stick with just two dowel pins -- I'm concerned that 4 pins (the most likely increment) will introduce difficult or impossible tolerance requirements when it comes to installing the moveable jaw.


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## nnam

Got my digital readout today for the mill.  I also played with treadmill parts.
Do any other out there find treadmill parts, especially from pro units, useful?   Motors, threased rods, roller bars.


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## Winegrower

I just got a new to me lathe and needed a tool setting height gauge.   I saw a video with Joe Pie where he had a cylinder with a block on one end...kind of interesting.   He had some application for it that I don't recall, but it seemed that a simple version would be a good height gauge.    I just turned a piece a few inches long of arbitrary diameter, then stuck it in the mill, measured the diameter exactly and removed half of the cross section on one end.   Now when I chuck this in the three jaw, the middle of the piece is right on the center of rotation, and with the flat area, it's easy to tell by feel (rub a fingernail) or sight when the tool height is correct.   

It only takes a few minutes to make this, and it works well for me.


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## Creativechipper

If you make it the correct length you can stand it up next to your tool and check tool height with stock in the chuck. I'm always changing tools with my material already chucked.
 I also stick a long true strait rod in my tail stocks drill bit holder with a pointed end and indicate tool height that way sometimes.
 I like how you made a flat rather than a point, safety first


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## lordbeezer

Yes on treadmills having useful parts..if a knob for speed control it has mc30-40-60 controller.get pro-commercial if you can..very nice large DC motors..3-4 hp..or 3 phase name brand motors.you have to look at treadmill manual to find hp rating. Most are tagged special..rods and bearings rollers are mounted on.much metal to repurpose ..I started off getting any I could..now kinda picky.will goggle manual.check hp and what kind of motor and controller.if it's a good brand it won't last long on Craig's list


----------



## Creativechipper

Did my 1st paid job in my hobby shop on the lathe. I think I put in at least 10 hours for the 50$...lol  Paid to learn is the way I see it.
  Made a chess pc out of stainless damascus steel.

  Turned a few rockets and used a center drill to mill the fins in a tool holder on the lathe...redneck as all can be but worked out, kinda like my tail stock taper in my spindle to hold the ER collet chuck.

Now if I could figure out how to make a small dividing head, I could perfectly space my fins.


----------



## Firstgear

Finished the platforms for my HF 1000 lb hydraulic cart.  Platforms are on linear slides that extend out beyond the edge of the front by about 7 ".  Increased the height that the table can reach to about 43" enabling me to easily get to the mill bed as well as the bed of my Chevy 2500 tailgate for loading or unloading.


----------



## FOMOGO

Back to work on the shop for the summer. Extending the loft area off of the bar for parts storage. Was planning to make it a little larger, but after mocking up the two post lift site and putting my largest vehicle on it, it became apparent that it would have to be scaled down some for the approach angle to the lift to work well . Made the steel posts for the loft support from some re-repurposed drill pipe.   Got a start on the walls for the bar, hopefully have the four sections up by the end of next week, other chores permitting. Leaning toward a fabricated steel landing and staircase. Just have to come up with an interesting design. Kind of looking forward to doing a little metal work. Mike


----------



## jdedmon91

I received a quill wheel set up for my mill from Jim Enos. Here is the video I made showing how I adapted it to my Lagun FT2






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nnam

jdedmon91 said:


> I received a quill wheel set up for my mill from Jim Enos. Here is the video I made showing how I adapted it to my Lagun FT2
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Very neat.  I wonder if adding an option for one-handed spinner steering wheel would make it any better.


----------



## FOMOGO

I think what it really needs is some fuzzy dice hanging above it.  Cheers, Mike


----------



## T Bredehoft

I became frustrated, chasing threads. When I worked professionally, all our lathes had adjustable stops so that we could back the cross slide out, traverse to the start of the thread and turn the cross slide in to the stop, advance the compound and take the next cut. I wanted to do this on my new PM1030 lathe. 

I had made some T nust for the cross slide, so I made an L shape  piece, secured it to a T nut, and put an adjuster below the top plate. Of course I can't slam into it, but it allowed me to make 15 peices threaded, in far less time than resettling the cross slide to zero each pass. 

(With luck) here's what it looks like


----------



## nnam

T Bredehoft said:


> I became frustrated, chasing threads. When I worked professionally, all our lathes had adjustable stops so that we could back the cross slide out, traverse to the start of the thread and turn the cross slide in to the stop, advance the compound and take the next cut. I wanted to do this on my new PM1030 lathe.
> 
> I had made some T nust for the cross slide, so I made an L shape  piece, secured it to a T nut, and put an adjuster below the top plate. Of course I can't slam into it, but it allowed me to make 15 peices threaded, in far less time than resettling the cross slide to zero each pass.
> 
> (With luck) here's what it looks like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 295361
> View attachment 295360



Very good idea.  Basically so you don't have to stare at the dial to know it's at 0, or which 0 it currently is at.

My dial lock is not that good, so if I accidentally bumping it out of place, it's not pretty.  I can still reset it, but it's not exact.


----------



## GL

My Dad was over a few weeks ago.  He's 87 and uses a cane now.  He's also tall and I noticed his cane was too short because he was hunched over.  Not a complicated project to make a press in extension.  I'm sure others have the same problem, but don't have sons with a lathe.  He showed up yesterday, an hour or so later, he's way more comfortable.  As Tubalcain says, anyone with 10k worth of tools can make a $5 part.  Glad I could help.


----------



## matthewsx

I made 10 more linear feet of wall space for benches and tools by moving my mom's boxes into storage



It's mostly stuff she hasn't looked at for 10 years but can't quite get rid of yet. This is actually part of my master plan to get the rest of my shop into the garage and empty out the big storage that has leftover stuff from my business.

John


----------



## nnam

Today I took out the DRO I ordered on Ebay to check it out, since I didn't install it yet. Just to make sure if there is a problem, I can return within the return window.

The most time I spent was looking for an adapter for holding the test indicator on the magnetic stand.

At the end, I just said to myself  why not drill the hole bigger on the clamp included with the stand.  That was done in a minute.

I don't know how to test this, but it appears to be good with 1/10th thous.


----------



## ThinWoodsman

I think I have that exact carpet, it looks frighteningly familiar.

Today: vise jaws. Brass, aluminum, delrin, wood, and (mild) steel. For the filing vise. The cheap counterbore set I had is 1/32 oversize, and the pilot seized in the on-size clearance hole in the steel, so that pair isn't actually finished yet. I made an extra wood set, for covering in either felt or leather (undecided). 

Probably should do this on a more limited scale for all of the machine vises - at least a set of brass or aluminum jaws for each.


----------



## nnam

I looked at these threaded rods, looks like acme thread.  I was curious about cutting an internal nut for it.  So I thought with standard threads, putting two rods together side by side would line up the threads perfectly.

I tried these and to my surprise, they don't. 

The threads don't sink all the way to the bottom.  I then tilted one a little and it worked.  I wonder if rust has anything to do with it.  Probably not though.


----------



## hman

What you observed is normal for Acme threads.  Look one of the rods from one side.  Note whether the tops or the bottoms of the threads are closer to a particular end.  Now look at the other side.  Note that the threads "lean" the opposite way.  So two threaded rods next to each other won't quite mesh perfectly.  Tilting one of them (at twice the "lean" angle) will allow meshing.

60º threads will mesh a lot better, because the 60º "face angle" is much larger than the "lean" angle.


----------



## nnam

hman said:


> What you observed is normal for Acme threads.  Look one of the rods from one side.  Note whether the tops or the bottoms of the threads are closer to a particular end.  Now look at the other side.  Note that the threads "lean" the opposite way.  So two threaded rods next to each other won't quite mesh perfectly.  Tilting one of them (at twice the "lean" angle) will allow meshing.
> 
> 60º threads will mesh a lot better, because the 60º "face angle" is much larger than the "lean" angle.


Thanks.  That explains it.

Today, I was researching on how to get my 15x30 regal servo shift lathe to do metric threading.  There were some articles on hobby-machinist.
Unfortunately, mine doesn't include the metric gear.  Reading the message was a little confusing for me with the 127 tooth idler gear, since the idler gear doesn't do anything at all.

Then I read the following page:

http://conradhoffman.com/metricthreading.htm

which gave a lot of good info.  With regard to the idler gear, it's two gears translation.  So 127 to 100 ratio.  With a common lead screw of 8 TPI, gives a pitch of 3.175 mm.  When reduced by 1.27 ratio, it goes down to 2.5mm pitch.  As a result, any integer multiple or fraction of the leadscrew's pitch would translate to the same ratio of that 2.5mm pitch.

For the article above, near the end, the section "*"You Have to Keep the Half Nuts Engaged for Metric Threading" - Not!*", I didn't really understand what's the problem or the explanation.  I suppose all that means is that a user must always go back to the exact same thread dial, versus going a fraction of the dial, but I am only guessing.


----------



## JimDawson

I think that means you have to keep the half-nuts engaged and back the lathe out of the cut by running in reverse.  not sure what the ''NOT!'' means


----------



## nnam

JimDawson said:


> I think that means you have to keep the half-nuts engaged and back the lathe out of the cut by running in reverse.  not sure what the ''NOT!'' means


The "not" part is confusing, then the part below it describing how to disengage and engage the half nut.  The article also said keeping the half nut engaged is "It's really simplified advice for the unskilled neophyte and is only a half truth".
That means it's not completely necessary.
I think the part running it in reverse to always keep the screw and head in sync is the jist of the technique, but not sure.


----------



## nnam

nnam said:


> The "not" part is confusing, then the part below it describing hie to disengage and engage the half nut.  The article also said keeping the half nut engaged is "It's really simplified advice for the unskilled neophyte and is only a half truth".
> That means it's not completely neccessary.
> I think the part running it in reverse to always keep the screw and head in sync is the jist of the technique, but not sure.


Ok, read it again  and I begin to get it.
Release the half nut, but engage it when the dial reverses less than one turn, in effect, keep it down all the time, but also allow quick disenagage the cutter at the end so no crash/collision.

To help myself understand how it works, it breaks it down into multiple thought processes.

1. I can  disengage then engage the nut as many time as I want, as long as the lathe is not running
2. I can disengage then engage the nut as long as the lathe stops running "instantly".
3. Since #2 is impossible, if I can disengage it, then engage it back exactly the same spot, whether the lathe running or not, it would work.
4. To get to a same spot of everything in the "system", when shut down the lathe, if it runs 10 more turns, it has to "unturn" that many before re-engage it again.
5. The 10 turns above can be "counted" as the thread dial goes back to the same spot as before as long as it's less than 1 complete thread dial rotation.


----------



## JimDawson

nnam said:


> Ok, read it again  and I begin to get it.
> Release the half nut, but engage it when the dial reverses less than one turn, in effect, keep it down all the time, but also allow quick disenagage the cutter at the end so no crash/collision.
> 
> To help myself understand how it works, it breaks it down into multiple thought processes.
> 
> 1. I can  disengage then engage the nut as many time as I want, as long as the lathe is not running
> 2. I can disengage then engage the nut as long as the lathe stops running "instantly".
> 3. Since #2 is impossible, if I can disengage it, then engage it back exactly the same spot, whether the lathe running or not, it would work.
> 4. To get to a same spot of everything in the "system", when shut down the lathe, if it runs 10 more turns, it has to "unturn" that many before re-engage it again.
> 5. The 10 turns above can be "counted" as the thread dial goes back to the same spot as before as long as it's less than 1 complete thread dial rotation.



OK    I think I get it.  I have never cut metric threads with an Imperial leadscrew.  I always heard that you have to keep the half-nuts engaged, but I could be wrong about that.


----------



## hman

My own take:  What nnam says is true.  But to be able to disengage and correctly re-engage the half nuts requires careful attention.  Keeping the half nuts engaged is the "stupid but bulletproof" way to do it.  

Of course, as nnam pointed out in his #3 comment, it's unrealistic to expect most lathes to stop instantly.  However, there are exceptions.  I use a VFD on my lathe and have a braking resistor hooked up.  So I can set the deceleration time to something very short, like ½ second.  Assuming I thread at around 60 RPM, that's ½ turn to stop.  I'm in the process now of modifying my carriage stop to include a "stop now" microswitch.  Once this is installed, I expect I'll be able to stop very consistently, maybe as good as ±⅛ turn from the set point.


----------



## savarin

I virtually only cut metric threads with my 8tpi lead screw using the 127/120 change gear combo.
I have become a dab hand at stopping the lathe with it coasting to a stop as it hits the end of the cut.
I do keep the half nuts engaged and reverse back as the thread dial is not very good so I removed it ages ago.
I also plunge in at 90' not 29.9 as I use a solid plinth rather than a top slide (just to improve rigidity in this flexi lathe)
This example has an M10x1.25 thread on each end of the stainless shaft.


I tried Conrads method but didnt like it as I find this very easy, even for a 250mm long thread.
There are other explanations like his that may make it clearer but I never saved the addresses.


----------



## nnam

savarin said:


> I virtually only cut metric threads with my 8tpi lead screw using the 127/120 change gear combo.
> I have become a dab hand at stopping the lathe with it coasting to a stop as it hits the end of the cut.



That's a very good method coasting down if you're good at it.  With lathe that has good brake, it may work very well.

127/120 would give 3mm screw pitch, which happens to be what Leblond recommended, based on the following thread:









						127 tooth translation gear
					

I have a LeBlond reagal lathe that has a massive gear in the change gear leading to the quick change gear box. It is imperial threading.  if i want to cut a metric thread does the 127 tooth gear replace the big one in the chain or does it go on the same stud as the big gear and drive the gear...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


----------



## nnam

Lately, I was using my horizontal mill to do face milling an old aluminum adapter that I am modifying.

The cheap set of ER32 collets I got was working well.  The horizontal mounting was a bit odd, especially with the odd shape of the aluminum piece I am working on and a lack of a vertical vise holder.

Someday, I will make a piece like a lathe milling adapter, but this doesn't need adjustment, since it already has vertical cranking. So it's basically a very large rigid angle metal bracket.

I fabricated some additional t-nuts using a very crude method of welding a nut to a drilled rectangular metal piece.  I drilled it first so I don't damage the nut's threads.  I then line up the hole and thread with a 5/16 piece.  Once done,  I tap into the metal piece to extend the nut's threads with a 3/8".  That worked very well, and it's a instant gratification things, since I ordered some online.  They came a day after   I then ordered some more, from China, which is really cheap, but will probably take a few months to come.  I don't know if I will ever need so many t-nuts.


----------



## nnam

Today, I used a razer blade to clean up the way under the mill's bed, mostly on the left and right ends where turning it is pretty rough.  I also used it "kind of carefully" clean the lead screw (using the blade's back).  That took out a lot of gunk. Finally I can turn into both ends without much effort, still not butter smooth.  I read somewhere to use soft thing to clean the lead screw up.  Probably it's better than a razer blade.


----------



## nnam

Today I needed to cut some copper tubing.  When using the "dialing" cutter, it kept wandering off.  So I looked into the round cutter and it had a lot of side play.  I have a very thin sheet of stainless steel I harvested from a larger rolling tape from a machine.  It's almost like a tape measure, but flat, not bowed, and stainless.  Probably much thinner than regular retractable tape measure.  So I drilled it and cut it into a tinny round washer/shims.  Took two to work very well.  Excited, I made one more for a larger tube cutter, but this time only needs 1 shim.  The new cut is way better, no multi-line tracing at all.  This is especially important for a little curve soft copper line or rolled up brake lines.  Since they're a bit curved up, it can wander off.  I know for the brake line, we needs to make it straight first so it would flare correctly.


----------



## nnam

I bought some Cat40  boring tool but haven't gotten to them yet.  Today made a drawbar with one end 5/8" coarse thread and the other welded on m16 bolt.  I cut out the hex bold head and welded it in.  I don't have metric conversion gear.  The draw bar works well and flipped over, I would have standard thread drawbar.


----------



## dbb-the-bruce

I tricked out my mill with spiffy LED strip lights this weekend:







I looked at getting a microscope ring light, but the size was actually an issue - couldn't find LED that would fit and was affordable. Then I remembered that I'd purchased a 1' section of high intensity LEDs on a flexible sticky back strip (many years ago!).

Worked out really nice, I had to cut the strip in half (it had a cut point at 6") and solder a jump wire between each section. I also removed the factory spindle lock - it was in the way and didn't work that well anyway. I may add a better spindle lock topside if I feel I really need it.

Funny thing about the LED strip is that I bought it long enough ago that I think it cost $50 - $70 with the wall wart power supply! Anyhow, it's finally found a use.

-Dave


----------



## nnam

I wish I have a verticle mill. I was aligning an oil cooler on a horizontal mill.  It is like a contortionist monkey juggling 3 balls.


----------



## Winegrower

I had some random pieces of 0.040 aluminum lying around.   I have a corner notcher and box brake, so it was only a few minutes to notch and fold up a few "parts trays", that I never seem to have around when I'm taking something apart.   Now there's a stack of them, different sizes and depths.


----------



## Cadillac

Cleaned up and rearranged the shop. Expecting a new SG this week. Amazing how alittle clean up and moving around can make the space you need.


----------



## rock_breaker

Started 2 projects, the first is a replacement yoke for the feed drive shaft on  my Atlas horizontal mill. I have the collar turned to the required diameter qnd have the yoke milled out. Put that project aside to make the puzzle that has bolt heads on each end with a nut on threads in the middle. Didn't get it done in time for the family reunion today. I tried using a homemade triangle and a short precision level to use on the short edge of the triangle with the level on the hypotenuse,. Obviously I didn't get the bubble in exactly the same spot which led to a 7 sided bolt head. On the way home a solution came to mind; draw a circle dived in 6 segments on the compute, print it, r then use a pointer on the mill table to index the 6 flats on bolt head. I now have a six sided bolt head that a 13/16" wrench will fit. The other end will get finished tomorrow I hope.
Have a good day
Ray


----------



## francist

Ahh, the ole seven-sided bolt trick eh. A puzzle in itself then, no?


----------



## FE427TP

A week or so ago I saw that the LED task lighting the previous owner installed on my mill was rated 85-265v a.c. but he had been running it from 120v from a little power strip and I initially did the same thing. So I tapped off the load side of the ‘start’ contactor so that when the mill is on/enabled the task lighting is also. The contactor had enough space on the din rail to slide a couple 3 wire terminal blocks in next to it to simplify the wiring.







Right now I’m working on a mounting plate to put my lathe chuck onto the rotary table. Made a mandrel to fit a 3/4” collet and to match the mt2 opening on the top of the rotary table, the body of it is the center of the chuck bore and the adapter plate hole. I turned down a couple bolts and threaded them metric to match the cam bolts for the d1-5 spindle the mandrel will stay in the chuck/aluminum plate to locate it and I’m thinking 2 bolts will suffice for keeping it from spinning. I found that I didn’t thread one of them far enough so I’m going to reduce the shank behind the threads for 1/4” or so for the bolt to be able to fully seat them trim them to length.


----------



## nnam

Yesterday, I went to a used good store, like thrift or goodwill.  I found an aluminum handle more than a feet long 1" OD and 0.083" thickness. Buying it would cost me maybe $15.  Even better, it curves, which is what I needed, so I don't have to worry about bending this thing.

I also saw a bunch of candle holders or whateber they're called made of brass fir a few bucks.  So I thought, what can they be used in a lathe?  Maybe oiler cups? Small bushing? Hand tight screw brass shims for various axis turing hand wheels' zeroed colars.

I don't know, what do you think? They are really cheap for brass, I think.


----------



## Mikkell

I'm in the Process of building a Gear holding Device for cutting gears VIA Thunderdog Designs on YouTube. Simple and affective design. Far easier than a Dividing head and miles cheaper.
Here's the link if you want to check it out.


----------



## nnam

Mikkell said:


> I'm in the Process of building a Gear holding Device for cutting gears VIA Thunderdog Designs on YouTube. Simple and affective design. Far easier than a Dividing head and miles cheaper.


That's a neat way to do it. I coudn't see how he does the verticle alignment.If it's fixed, then does he rely on shimmming the bottom?


----------



## Mikkell

It does look good, I had to watch it over and over to completely figure it out.


----------



## dbb-the-bruce

nnam said:


> That's a neat way to do it. I coudn't see how he does the verticle alignment.If it's fixed, then does he rely on shimmming the bottom?


That's a good quick and dirty example of using change gears to cut other gears, and yes if you want to trade time for money (time to build it vs. buying a real dividing head) it makes a lot of sense! The book "Dividing" by Harold Hall has a build of a more serious version of this in chapter 7. The book also has a lot of other "tricks" for dividing.

If you go this route - There is a good trick you can do to double the number of gears you can cut: If you notch the indexing pin, it can reference both the tops and valleys of the change gear. The pin shape is like a screw driver to index between the teeth. If you rotate the pin 90 deg and carefully notch it, you can also index the on the teeth. Hence a 40 tooth change gear can make an 80 tooth gear. You need to get the notch centered on the pin -it can be tweaked with a file to get it just right.

-Dave


----------



## Creativechipper

My current indexing is a shish kabob stick with a mark on one end so the same side is always up and a bubble level hanging in line on the other end of the stick. I can rotate my 3 jaw until one jaw is completely level, gives me 6 refrences, maybe I need a 6 jaw next..lol


----------



## savarin

I followed this one




__





						Cut a lathe change gear
					

Cut a lathe change gear



					users.tpg.com.au
				



Very simple to make


----------



## nnam

Today, I did something that I think it's a bit crazy and I would like to share.  I need a parting tool.  I ordered it, but I can't wait.
I need to cut two rings of thin aluminum.  People said a dull knife would cut aluminum.  Ok.  What can I do?  Maybe take a HSS bit and trim it into a parting bit?  Too much work, but very tempting.

After thinking for a while and sudden, a light lit up in my head, why not use a spade drill bit. It's just thin aluminum tubing.

So I took one, ground it and cut a few test.  It worked. I cut two real rings.  Then I thought, why not cut a solid piece of aluminum.  This is 7/8" diameter I think.  Near half way, the bit bent down and I stopped.  Here's a picture:




I didn't have a good backing inside the ring, so they broke off a bit early.  I will just need to file them down.  I don't think it's because of the bit.
If I had patient, I would put a very tight rod inside the tube to tight down the chuck harder and also have a good backing, but I was a bit impatient.


----------



## nnam

Last night and this evening I took the mill's bed apart and cleaned up the gibs on both x and y axis.  All screws and holes are cleaned up.  I put them back and made sure all are nice and tight. The lead screw has a split and an adjuster screw wedge the split to remove backlash (only on X axis having it).  I put it back and tried doing a face mill again with a 63 mm cutter.  Before doing it, the cut was showing circular ridges.  Now, it's must better.  I still see circular pattern, but no deep ridges.  It's a hard piece of steel.  Last night I thought the mill was junk.  But I did some fine adjustment to the gibs and it improved a lot.  Maybe someday I would scrape the dovetails.  Getting the tool is probably expensive though.


----------



## nnam

I finally was able to mount the oil adapter in a way that I can bore out the oring holes.  Previously, some people advised that using a drill bit wont work well for oring.  That was good, and I thought using a lathe to cut it would work well.  However, something else I learned later was the oring squeeze is very specifc.  Drill bit sizes dont work out; and I can't get the oring to work since the holes only need some thous larger.  I already welded the piece and had a hard time mounting the larger piece to bore due to clearance issue. The orings fit great after the bores.  The bored surface is so smooth and beatiful.  I really love lathes and milling machines (or am I now dependant on them?)


----------



## nnam

Today, I was making a boring bar extension.  Still need welded.


----------



## Jubil

nnam said:


> Today, I was making a boring bar extension.  Still need welded.
> 
> View attachment 301161


Let us know how it works.
I made an extension couple days ago. I used a 5/8" x 6" grade 8 bolt and welded a 1/4" brazed carbide cutter to the side. Turned one end down to 1/2" to fit boring head.  It was a failure. Used it in wood and it chattered really bad. Don't think I'll it try on steel. Live and learn.
Chuck


----------



## nnam

Sorry to hear it didn't work for you.  I hope to get it done tomorrow.  I will update it.  The length is not much more than current longest bar, which worked very well on aluminum.  This gives me clearance on the side and a larger diameter.

The two pieces were cut from a mower shaft.  It was hard, based on how hard it cut from a cobalt parting blade, but I don't know. A wide two studs helps almost 8x the side strength, but only double on the front strength. Twist torque also more than 8x single 1/2".  That is all theory.   We'll see how it work.   If it works well, I will try on some mild steel.


----------



## Janderso

Replaced the felt wipers on my Clausing Colchester 15.
The old ones were cork and were hard as a rock. (that's not a scored way in the second pic, I could wipe it off with my finger, just smooge)
McMaster quality felt.


----------



## nnam

Janderso said:


> Replaced the felt wipers on my Clausing Colchester 15.


I love these felt.  After replaced my lathe with similar felt, and after a while, the apron slides smooth like butter.
I need to add/make 4 for the cross slide (no felt at all currently )


----------



## nnam

Today I welded the boring extension and tried it out.  It worked rather well for what I needed.  I only cleaned up a little, so not a good test.  You can see the picture below.  The top looks ugly because the side curves in, and it is not cut by the blade, but rather ground by the back of the blade/tool.  Neat the bottom is very smooth.  I cut very slow and little at a time.  So I don't know how a real cut would be, but for what I needed, it does exactly how I needed it.


----------



## nnam

nnam said:


> View attachment 301199



The black curve in the middle is the corner.  Inside of it is the bottom, not wall.  On the left of that middle curve is the wall where I cut.  I welded the holder at a little angle, which makes the blade almost vertical, but not quite.  Because the wall curve in on top, the back of the blade rubs against the wall causing those lines.


----------



## mmcmdl

My pine tress got the better half of the last 5 days . Trimmed 5 trees up about 6 feet off the ground and burn't it all ! I haven't cut under these trees for about 12 years and there was trees , vines , raspberries etc growing up thru the trees . I used the generator and the sawsall with an 8" blade . Worked great but dragging all those branches over to the firepit took  quite an effort . I also got part of the front of the house primered and ready for paint . Did this with a brush and rough roller . Never again , a sprayer is on its way to finish this job .  Nice to get back into work to catch a break !


----------



## royesses

Bamban said:


> Barrels in varying completion for our junior shooters. Thanks to Shilen Rifles for their generous donation of barrel blanks to the kids.
> 
> I have been busy.
> 
> View attachment 294475


Wow that is some serious money there. I used to dream of owning a Shilen rifle when I was younger.

Roy


----------



## jdedmon91

I did this job for a local street stock race car. Here is the video. 






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nnam

jdedmon91 said:


> I did this job for a local street stock race car. Here is the video.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not sure why you had to go extra steps saying people should not cut the rotor at home.  I know some safety troll would say things, but servicing a brake at home can also cause accident if done wrong.  Not picking at you, just wonder if it's standard disclaimer thing or there is a real good reason for that.


----------



## Latinrascalrg1

nnam said:


> Not sure why you had to go extra steps saying people should not cut the rotor at home.  I know some safety troll would say things, but servicing a brake at home can also cause accident if done wrong.  Not picking at you, just wonder if it's standard disclaimer thing or there is a real good reason for that.


In America people have a tendency to blame someone else for a problem they themselves created.  For example they "watched a video and the Guy who made the video did a dangerous thing without proper equipment safetly but when I tried I got hurt  by following HIS Directions but if he didn't make that video or maybe warned people not to try it cause it might be dangerous then I would not have done what I Did so therefore its HIS Fault and I should be able to Sue him for Everything he has!"  This is why people go through that Extra Step to warn people "Not to do this at home."  Does it make a difference  or mean anything in the court of law? I dont know but people believe  it protects them to post a disclaimer.


----------



## Winegrower

In a flash of insight, after picking out the wrong size parallels too many times, I labeled the box with the spacing between the top of the parallel and the top of the vise.   Yeah, it helps.

Disclaimer: Don't try this without proper safety equipment.    And check your spelling.


----------



## Janderso

Good idea.
Speaking of safety.
I tried to order some lighting for the shop today. You know, florescent T-8 tubes.
Grainger, won't ship them from Sacramento (about 65 miles). They contain a substance known in the State of California, to cause erectile dysfunction, skin cancer in lab rats, birth defects if you put the powder in your soup and mood swings.
I wonder how Grainger got them?
I hope I did not break any Forum rules.


----------



## matthewsx

Janderso said:


> Good idea.
> Speaking of safety.
> I tried to order some lighting for the shop today. You know, florescent T-8 tubes.
> Grainger, won't ship them from Sacramento (about 65 miles). They contain a substance known in the State of California, to cause erectile dysfunction, skin cancer in lab rats, birth defects if you put the powder in your soup and mood swings.
> I wonder how Grainger got them?
> I hope I did not break any Forum rules.



Mercury, very hard to machine....

Can't you just get those at Home Depot though?


----------



## Janderso

How did they get to Home Depot? A truck!!
Yeah, I can go to Home depot. Running a business requires the act of acquisition of supplies.
It's frustrating.


----------



## homebrewed

matthewsx said:


> Mercury, very hard to machine....



All you have to do is keep your shop at -38F or lower so the mercury freezes.  Piece of cake  . Oops, that would freeze too...


----------



## matthewsx

Janderso said:


> How did they get to Home Depot? A truck!!
> Yeah, I can go to Home depot. Running a business requires the act of acquisition of supplies.
> It's frustrating.



I understand your frustration. I suspect however that Grainger doesn't want to ship them because they are too easy to break, not because of the mercury. 

I'm sure you can find a good local supplier that caters to businesses and will deliver them, have you tried your local lighting supply?

John


----------



## hman

Janderso - My SWAG is that there's some kind of paperwork involved in shipping fluorescent tubes in California.  They can easily afford to do paperwork for a bulk shipment - cost per item would be miniscule.  But having to fill out the paperwork for every onsie-twosie shipment to a customer would get burdensome.  So they just institute a blanket policy for all fluorescent tube shipments to customers.  Don't know how large your order would have been, but you got stuck on the "one size fits all" shipping policy.  I suppose if you were ordering a multiple case lot, they might have made an exception ... but it would take dealing (pleading) directly with a human being.  The automated system would be of no help at all.
-end of rant-
PS - A possible alternative - LED lamps.  IIRC, the 4 foot lengths are direct plug-in replacements.  For 8 foot lengths, you need to remove and wire across the ballast.  It's easy to do.  I've replaced the lamps on several of the ceiling fixtures in my shop (the ones that had started to buzz or flicker) and have a supply of tubes ready for replacing the others when needed.


----------



## Janderso

I went into my Grainger account, when I clicked on add or went to place in my shopping cart I get this pop-up.

This product cannot be shipped to some areas of the U.S.
Below this there are 2 bubbles, you need t answer the question, "Will this product be shipped to:CA "

Yeah, it's a California thing.


----------



## Logan 400

I had a need for a vertical saw and I have 2 port a band saws so I modified my vise stand and installed some outlets and a foot switch. Works pretty good.
Jay


----------



## Latinrascalrg1

Logan 400 said:


> I had a need for a vertical saw and I have 2 port a band saws so I modified my vise stand and installed some outlets and a foot switch. Works pretty good.
> Jay


I like the foot switch idea and may have to borrow that from you.


----------



## Logan 400

Go for it. It's an air switch for a plumbers drain snake. The contacts are rated for 25 amps.
Jay


----------



## nnam

Talk about straghten cast iron wheel, I have a problem myself.  My badsaw has two rough spots and it shakes when reached those points.  I tried to true the wheel with my lathe before but the effort was unsuccessful.  Now I am thinking of giving it another try.

I will remove it and check what is going on.  If the center is bent (due to bent spoke for example), I may bore it to larger size, or weld and bore.

To weld, I am thinking of heating it up slowly with an electric stow, maybe with an aluminum spacer to spread the heat.  Once hot, I would put it durectly on it, maybe still have aluminum or steel sheet beneath to protect the stove ad fill it with weld.  After that would be bury in sand or lower the stove setting gradually.  What do you think of that plan?

I would go with a larger bearing if there is a good match.  The current one is 6203 I think.

I looked up and boring under size for outter housing under 3" diameter is from 0.5 thou to 1.5 thou.

Do anyone have suggestion on centering large item like this on a mill without a DRO? I still didn't install my dro yet.


----------



## Cadillac

When I went through my Kalamazoo well saw I cut both wheels on my Bridgeport using a rotary table. Centered RT then used a shaft that fit the wheel and mounted in 3jaw on RT. Took light cuts cleaned up quickly and redefined the square back edge on wheels easily in the cast iron wheels. If the bore is out of whack rebore it and sleeve it. Depending on how far out it is by aligning to the existing bore and recutting the OD of the wheel(depends if you have enough material) will take care of the wobble?


----------



## nnam

I went ahead and bored out my band saw wheel and added a sleeve to it.  I had a hard time finding an off the shelf sleeve.  So I just made one with a galvanized fence tubing that happens to have the right size for me to cut.  It was hard to find something of the correct size that can be used to for making the sleeve.

Then a funny part was after I clamped the wheel onto a milling machine and all was centered using a dial indicator on the center hole.  That took me a long time since it's a horizontal mill.  I had to run around many times to line it up.  I went to something like 0.17 thou.  I was really happy, then I can't put the boring tool in.  I was frustrated after all that work, and not want to move out of alignment so I can put the boring tool in before re-align.

I decided to try something different.  I put a face plate on the lathe, used some extra T-nuts I bought before and clamped the wheel up nicely.  It is still hard, but I only need to stand there and hit it with rubber mallet here and there, versus running around the mill, climb up and down, etc.  The mill, I can use the knobs while with the lathe, it's a rubber mallet.  Once done, boring was the easy part.

I also cut out the outside, just to make sure it's good. Well, it's a mistake.  I cut the backing ridge, but also put very light cut on the crown area.  It's so light that the old rust or black metal is still there.  But now, the blade doesn't sit back anymore.  I need to cut the crown for it.

Would someone please tell me what's the shape or bevel angle for it?  I read somewhere about 1/3 from the backing edge, but I am not sure.

The sleeve went in very nicely, and so did the bearings.  However, the bearing was a bit tight.  I can tell by rotating it by hand, I can feel discreet resistance, not smooth feeling.  Probably it was because the sleeve was compressed, making its ID even smaller than the under sized ID it was cut to have a tight fit.   They went in real easy, so I thought it was good (I cranked the hydraulic press with my hand, without the bar, just using that tiny little bar insert hole).

So now that I have to align the wheel again for the crown cut, I would bore the sleeve down a few more thous to make sure the bearings will be alright.  Test cut is ok (even with the blade side half way),  I just feel the bearings are going to go with that pre-loaded state.  If it gets hot, it's probably even tighter.


----------



## Nogoingback

Overhauled A Jacobs Chuck

Some months ago I picked up a 1/2" Jacobs chuck cheaply at a garage sale.  Today I finally got around to pulling it apart, cleaning it
up and reassembling it.  Jaws looked good, and on the DP I got a runout of .003".  Good enough for a backup chuck.


----------



## jwmay

I spent 45 minutes looking for a drift that I just knew I’d put somewhere, so I could steal the chuck out of the drill press in order to drill a hole in some round stock with my newly assembled Atlas. Shortly after my wife arrived home, I found the drift, knocked out the chuck, installed it in the tailstock ram, covered the machine, and went in for dinner.


----------



## nnam

jwmay said:


> I spent 45 minutes looking for a drift that I just knew I’d put somewhere, so I could steal the chuck out of the drill press in order to drill a hole in some round stock with my newly assembled Atlas. Shortly after my wife arrived home, I found the drift, knocked out the chuck, installed it in the tailstock ram, covered the machine, and went in for dinner.


So the whole diner, you sit quiet with your mind still trapped in that lathe, and your wife wonder what happens


My wife would know and she told me before when my head is somewhere else


----------



## Janderso

Ok,
That works two ways, when your wife is somewhere else, is she thinking about those shoes she saw at the dress shop or the new pool boy?
I know that’s a sexist remark but ....this could go in many directions


----------



## Creativechipper

Just remember to give more attention to the living!! Otherwise things can get uncomfortable, the machine will never complain about not seeing you..lol


----------



## jwmay

Poolboy?!!! Ha! As if we’d have the budget for that!


----------



## 682bear

Today I finished machining a new gearbox pulley for my new-to-me Hendey lathe.




The original pulley was broken on one side and the groove spacing did not match the motor pulley... so I fixed both problems...

-Bear


----------



## savarin

Didnt get much done today, only managed 3 screws, just another 9 to go.


They are for minute adjustments in the tertiary mirror of the binoculars.


----------



## jwmay

Well it’s nothin’ fancy, but I made this not quite perfect chuck wrench.  I’ll be testing the long term adhesive ability of loctite with it.


----------



## nnam

jwmay said:


> Well it’s nothin’ fancy, but I made this not quite perfect chuck wrench.  I’ll be testing the long term adhesive ability of loctite with it.


That looks really nice.  The chuck I have has a spring that pushes it out.  What I heard was to prevent users leaving it in there and cause an accident.  That makes sense and very nice.  However, I really dislike this.  I just can't turn quickly with one had.  It just keeps flopping and popping out.


----------



## nnam

Today, I was cleaning up and saw my 1" belt Dayton sander sitting there, never used.  So I turned it on and it vibrated a lot.  I checked and the top pulley and idler pulley's bearings are both shot.  I happened to have 2 bearings of the same size (6203).  So great, I will just replace them.
My first notice was that somehow the outer edge of the existing bearing is thin.  It can't be so, so it must be embedded inside the pulley (plastic).  I proceeded and pushed out the bearing from the small idler bearing and indeed, it sits inside a groove, and pushing it out effectively destroyed it.

So now I have the larger pulley  that I am thinking of should I make a pulley, buy one or manage to replace the bearing without destroying it.  The only thing that came to my mind to replace it is heat.  Get it soft enough and somehow get it out.  It doesn't appear to be a good option.

Maybe a car pulley?  There are tons out there.  Just find 3.5x1" pulley.  Maybe I can make an adapter for the inside hole and it's good to go.  It costs more than I would like though and still with lots of work.

If I have the right metal, turning it on a lathe with be a pretty short work.  I even looked up 3.5" metal caster wheel to see if I can make use of that, but the middle material is too small for boring out to fit the bearings.

Pouring aluminum is just not my thing, not now I think, but it can be a tempting option.

What would you do in this case?  If I can, I would prefer not spend a lot of money on this one.


----------



## Latinrascalrg1

I say grind the lip off so you can press out the old bearing then use some loctite to hold the new bearing in place.


----------



## nnam

Latinrascalrg1 said:


> I say grind the lip off so you can press out the old bearing then use some loctite to hold the new bearing in place.


That's a brilliant idea, thanks.


----------



## T Bredehoft

I've been looking for a long time for Quick Change tooling for my PM 25.  I found some, the mill doesn't cost much more. I decided to make my own. After considerable research I determined that ER11 collets would do what I want. 
Referencing the image  below, I made the following. 
The piece on the left fits into a 3/4 R8 collet in the mill.
 The next two pieces, the tool holder and the retainer are held together by the presence of the Collet nut. 
The retainer is threaded inside with 8 pitch 1 1/8 Acme threads, mating with threads on the base piece.They screw together with about one revolution. I have notches for a spanner cut in them but so far haven't needed one. 
The forth piece in the illustration shows the assembly ready to go to work. 
The last piece has a Phillips chuck (new old stock).  I assembled the whole thing, put the Philips chuck in with a  1/8 dowel pin, it ran out .0003. Good enough for drilling, to my standards. All pieces were machined to be concentric, checked and corrected to .0005 or better before finish machining. I will have 8 pieces when I get done making all of them. Enough for a couple of set ups. 




The picture could have been a  bit better.


----------



## nnam

I plan to do some o/a brazing of cast iron.  Some people said to tin it first so it would stick.  I don't know how that work.  From what I saw in various video, people clean it up to shiny level, put them next to each other (or some light clamping as I understand it), then start pre-heating the piece by keeping moving the Oxy Acetylene torch.  Once it's dull red, they start to focus on one point and dip the rod within the flame, not outside of the flame as normal soldering or copper brazing.
Two other questions I have is the dull red part, where people said so, but somehow I just can't see that on the video.  So I don't know how to determine when the pre-heat is sufficient.  Another question would be for a someone larger piece such as 5 lbs large, what would the brazing tip size to use?
Also, I plan to dip it in something to keep it warm.  Some said cat litter.  I have own a cat, and I don't know which type of cat litter to use.  Some said sand, is it just dry play sand at the home depot?  Can I just put in inside a box made of fire bricks?


----------



## nnam

Today, I am in a process of buying an ultrasonic cleaner.  I have a feeling that I am going feel real "upset" later because why didn't I buy it before.  How many times I have to poke carburetors of mower or trimmers? Scrubbing greasy parts, tools?  I just found that for expensive bearings, sometimes, just cleaning it and repack it would make it work good, versus spending money to buy them, which is very expensive compared to an ultrasonic cleaner if it's very expensive bearing.  Time will tell.  I am looking at 6 liter unit.
I am sure many here probably have them before.  Any advise on size or anything related to this kind of things?


----------



## f350ca

Think the one I have is 6 litre, they are great for cleaning a bunch of greasy bolts and hardware when you tear something down. Seam to work well on garburators and fuel pumps and such. 
A possible word of caution on cleaning bearings. Read an article  where they claimed they were using one to remove the grease from new bearings to repack with a customer specked grease. According to them all the bearings failed, they thought the ultrasonic action was vibrating the balls and brinelling the races. Don't believe a lot of what I read on the net but this article has stopped me from trying it, but sure seams like a great way to clean them. Maybe someone else can confirm or deny,

Greg


----------



## pontiac428

nnam said:


> Any advise on size or anything related to this kind of things?


Yes.  Keep your fingers out of the bath if'n it's running.  They ain't called "sonic cellular disruptors" in longhand for nothing!  (if you were wondering, it's sonicator for short).  Because the alternative to safety is painful.


----------



## nnam

f350ca said:


> According to them all the bearings failed, they thought the ultrasonic action was vibrating the balls and brinelling the races.
> 
> Greg


That makes sense.   The constant hammering of hard bearing may destroy things, even themselves.
I got to read more before doing that.


----------



## royesses

Last week I let my son use my Milwaukee 1/2" drive 1400 lb/ft impact to put brakes on his one ton. 5 minutes later he gave me my 22mm Klutch deep impact socket split down the side. It's a cheap socket so I did not complain. He breaks every tool he can get his hands on anyway.

  I replaced it with a Wright brand socket. I needed to make an ER32 torque wrench adapter so I used the drive end of the broken socket and cut off an ER32 wrench for a transplant. Lemonade out of lemons I guess. It worked great. The length is 2 inches added to the torque wrench so the math is easy if the wrench is used inline with the torque wrench handle and no math required if used at a 90° angle to the torque wrench handle. Please ignore  the ugly tig weld. Between cataracts and an old unsteady hand my welds are looking like pigeon droppings.
 There is a free torque wrench extension calculator for Iphone and Android available from Norbar torque tools named "Torque Wrench Extension Calculator" that I use to easily find the required torque setting. My CDI torque wrench has a handle length of 15.5 inches so the setting for 100lb/ft on the nut is 88.57lb/ft on the wrench. The ER32 nut is a ball bearing version. The collet chuck is from LMS. I drilled 3 holes on the chuck and use a Gedore 80-90mm pin spanner wrench to hold while torquing. 
 I used a HSS 1/16"parting blade on the mini lathe to cut off the socket drive end. That chrome- moly socket is tough, I had to sharpen the parting blade 3 times.






Roy


----------



## nnam

That weld is beautiful by my standard, or ability (without a rotating table)

I love hammer action.  The other day, I tried to turn a siezed 3/4" bolts with large cheater bar.  It didn't work. I am worried it will break.   Use the same milwaukee 1400 lbs wrench, it moves right away.

Wow, breaking a large chrome molly socket like that, that is super powerful.


----------



## nnam

On the 88.57 ft lb, I think it doesn't depend on the length of the torque wrench.  To the torque wrench square socket insert, it is the same 100 ft lb, no matter which length torque wrench you use.

so I think to the center of the socket, it feels like 100 lbs rotate 1 ft away.  Your net result would be straight distance between center of er32 to 12" from center of socket.  Say that is D in inches, and you need a torque of T, the setting torque on the wrench would be:

12/D * T

In your case, 12/14×100= 85.7 lb ft

If the angle is a straight line, D = 12" + r

Where r is radius of your made up tool, from center of socket to center of er32

If you rotate, it is no longer a straight addition.

You use the torque wrench length to calculate how much your hand or arm feel if you hold it at the tip of the end.

Someone please check my math and correct me.


----------



## royesses

nnam said:


> On the 88.57 ft lb, I think it doesn't depend on the length of the torque wrench.  To the torque wrench square socket insert, it is the same 100 ft lb, no matter which length torque wrench you use.
> 
> so I think to the center of the socket, it feels like 100 lbs rotate 1 ft away.  Your net result would be straight distance between center of er32 to 12" from center of socket.  Say that is D in inches, and you need a torque of T, the setting torque on the wrench would be:
> 
> 12/D * T
> 
> In your case, 12/14×100= 85.7 lb ft
> 
> If the angle is a straight line, D = 12" + r
> 
> Where r is radius of your made up tool, from center of socket to center of er32
> 
> If you rotate, it is no longer a straight addition.
> 
> You use the torque wrench length to calculate how much your hand or arm feel if you hold it at the tip of the end.
> 
> Someone please check my math and correct me.



nnam here is the the math I used from CDI: I used the Norbar app to do the calculation, but it agreed with my Casio calculator. 
I don't have a welding turntable either, the last time I did was 30+ years ago when I made a living welding. I'm sure your welds are very good.
Thank you for the reply to my post and the like.

Roy


----------



## nnam

I saw someone on you tube used that method before.  I posted it here because partly seeing that and now here.  Maybe someone need to verify with weight (I may do it later ).  One way to check the formula is setting A at 0, meaning no extension, then your force must be equaled to the torque number using the formula.  However, the longer the bar, we know the less you need to press, not equalled.

Edit: read again my logic above and it doesn't make sense, and formula seems correct. I will update later after doing some math

I will have to double check this since I used my method for torquing my diesel engine head bolt using an extension adapter.


----------



## pontiac428

The click in a torque wrench is a response to force.  Torque is force times moment arm.  Change the moment arm length, and you change the torque.  @royesses is doing the right thing by recalculating the effective setting against the nominal setting when using an extension or offset.


----------



## nnam

Thanks all for sharing your knowledge.

I can confirm that I was wrong.  My initial thought was that the torque wrench only knows its "head", not where you hold it, but that's not how it works.  Further thinking, the number "12" I used above for the inches in a foot was completely off.  The ft.lb was just a unit of measurement.  So if it's inch pound, the multiplication factor would be different if using my formula.  It's just wrong.

But ...

I always wanted to build a torque wrench tester, since I didn't trust my low cost torque wrenches (since I have acquired a few better made).

So today, I made just that.  I will need to have a "calibrated" weight, but it should not be a big problem.  I heard postal office can weight a package for you.

Here's a picture of the setup:











Without the extension, it shows 79 in.lb.  With the wrench extension, rough measurement (not the diagonal like in picture, but along the board), it's about 7.5 in.  The wrench is 8" center to center of holding handle.  With the extension, I measured 38 in.lb.  But the extension now has the box end wrench, a nut and a short bolt (1/2").


----------



## nnam

What I found a bit interesting is that these torque wrenches appear to need a warm up.
An Armstrong wrench initially measured it (without extension) as 76 ft.lb.  The Harbor Freight didn't click until 77 ft.lb, then after that, it settles down at 76 ft.lb.  That's impressive for the low price Harbor Freight.  After that, I set both back at minimum settings.  Awhile later, maybe 20 minutes, I measured and it was 79 ft.lb for both torque wrenches.  That's what I meant they may need a warm up.


----------



## nnam

My re-calculation


----------



## pontiac428

In the past, I took a calibrated snap-on dial torque wrench and put it in a vise.  Then I took each of my other torque wrenches and, using a socket to couple the two wrenches together by the square drive, tested them against the control.  Three HF wrenches, a Park, a Craftsman beam-type, and my favorite S-K wrench all popped within a couple of lb-ft of the calibrated wrench.  So I guess it's not too hard to make a spring or a beam accurate.  What I really learned was that I don't like using $h!t tools, and I feel so much more confident using my nicer torque wrench to do my thing, but I don't get too upset if I have to throw a HF wrench in the pickup and do field work with it.  I know I'll get good enough results, and if there's gonna be wear-and-tear it may as well be on the cheapie and not on the one that costs 8-10 times as much.  So maybe hand tools are like handguns- they all go boom when you pull the trigger, but what makes or breaks then is how confident and comfortable you feel with the one you like in your hands.


----------



## nnam

Today I tried to continue cutting an existing thread.  Basically, the rod was broken near the end of the threading area.  After I welded it back up, I tried to line the cutting bit into one of the existing thread, move the part in a way that the dial falls into a number.  This can be seen rather easy since it's a large 3/4" coarse thread.  I then started to cut, but somehow the existing thread just got messed up.  That didn't make any sense to me.  It's easier for me to just weld all over the whole threading area and re-cut it.  But just wanted to find out what I did wrong, or it's any advise on this?

I am thinking of just cutting out that weld part without thread may work too, but having a lathe, I like to play with it a bit and maybe learn something.


----------



## savarin

If you had the tool bit at 90 degrees to the work and aligned with the existing thread I would suspect backlash in the feed screw wasnt taken up.
Or the wrong thread count was used.
I have to keep my half nuts fully engaged when reversing back to the start of the thread and go a bit further before going forwards again to take up the backlash in the system.
It is possible to pick up the thread but does take a bit of fiddling to get it accurate.
Set the tool bit aligned up with the thread as best as you think but dont let it actually touch.
Run the lathe and watch to see if the point of the tool accurately follows the thread or what it will probably do is lag a little.
Adjust accordingly.


----------



## nnam

It's probably backlash then.  I didn't account for that at all.  I could put a nut on the new thread area.  It didn't continue onto the old thread.
It was getting late in the day and I decided instead of beating myself up, I just cut out the new thread area and put it back in.


----------



## jwmay

I scrapped a 500 pound washing machine, but stole the feet off it first. Okay it didn’t weigh 500 pounds, but between me, my son, my wife, and a dolly we never got past the second step out of the basement. I put those feet on a bench I’ve had that has always been wobbly. No more wobble!

Then I cut a cabinet that used to hold an oven right in the middle in half. Slapped an old warped countertop on it, and viola! A nice garage addition.

Finally, I’ve always hated lifting this portable tablesaw, and setting up something to set it on when I needed to use it. So I drug out a leftover sheet of plywood and knocked up this rolling base to leave it permanently mounted. I’d pulled the cast iron wheels off something in a dumpster a few years back. I’ll be adding several creature features to this as time permits. But at least I don’t have to pick the tablesaw off the floor in the meantime.

What’s all this have to do with hobby machining? Well as you can see, there’s a milling vise on the new garage countertop. So there.

And this was three separate days of doing. I’m not really good enough to manage it all in an afternoon.


----------



## mmcmdl

Couple days off to try to straighten up the place from summer activities . I need to organize and dispose of some things or I'll be sleeping out in the front yard .


----------



## westerner

I am here for you, man! See my reply to your Counterbore post, ya?

In my shop lately- I blew up my 3/4 drive to 1/2 drive socket adapter (impact rated) in an attempt to remove the harmonic balancer on my darling bride's Honda CRV. My 3/4 impact gun is old school, and a truly hard hitter.
Any of these engines have a notoriously tight bolt.
I am in the process of machining a "bushing" to go from the 19 mm bolt head size to the smallest 3/4 drive socket I can find (7/8). When I blow THAT up, I will start welding small sockets onto bigger drives. Good fun. I had to machine the 19mm socket down to 1" OD to fit my 5C collet, so that I could chuck that up into my 6 sided collet block, so I could size that to smash fit into the 7/8 socket. I may drop a little brass or solder into THAT mess in an attempt to "get er done".
After all, why would I send this to the local shop and pay $300 to get this done, when I have already spent $5000 on the "machine shop" in my garage?


----------



## rock_breaker

I have never touched a Honda with a tool but will ask a question about heating the bolt. In reading about tight bolt problems that question comes up quite often and especially with modern cars. Thread locking seems to have come of age in the last 20-30 years IMHO. Good luck in getting that bolt loose. Another question, is it left .or right hand threads.
Have a good day
Ray


----------



## Tim9

nnam said:


> Today I tried to continue cutting an existing thread.  Basically, the rod was broken near the end of the threading area.  After I welded it back up, I tried to line the cutting bit into one of the existing thread, move the part in a way that the dial falls into a number.  This can be seen rather easy since it's a large 3/4" coarse thread.  I then started to cut, but somehow the existing thread just got messed up.  That didn't make any sense to me.  It's easier for me to just weld all over the whole threading area and re-cut it.  But just wanted to find out what I did wrong, or it's any advise on this?
> 
> I am thinking of just cutting out that weld part without thread may work too, but having a lathe, I like to play with it a bit and maybe learn something.


Picking up internal threads... Joe Piz

This is really a good video on picking up threads for repairs or if you just screw the pup when threading..
   I’ve run into this problem recently and this method shown by Joe is really good.


----------



## nnam

Tim9 said:


> Picking up internal threads... Joe Piz
> 
> This is really a good video on picking up threads for repairs or if you just screw the pup when threading..
> I’ve run into this problem recently and this method shown by Joe is really good.


Very good technique.  Thanks.


----------



## silverhawk

rock_breaker said:


> I have never touched a Honda with a tool but will ask a question about heating the bolt. In reading about tight bolt problems that question comes up quite often and especially with modern cars. Thread locking seems to have come of age in the last 20-30 years IMHO. Good luck in getting that bolt loose. Another question, is it left .or right hand threads.
> Have a good day
> Ray


I agree. Check that it isn't a left hand thread. It's been years since I did that to my Honda, so my memory has faded, but that is crucial to know. 

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


----------



## nnam

savarin said:


> If you had the tool bit at 90 degrees to the work and aligned with the existing thread I would suspect backlash in the feed screw wasnt taken up.
> Or the wrong thread count was used.
> I have to keep my half nuts fully engaged when reversing back to the start of the thread and go a bit further before going forwards again to take up the backlash in the system.
> It is possible to pick up the thread but does take a bit of fiddling to get it accurate.
> Set the tool bit aligned up with the thread as best as you think but dont let it actually touch.
> Run the lathe and watch to see if the point of the tool accurately follows the thread or what it will probably do is lag a little.
> Adjust accordingly.



After watching the other video where it was shown how to pick up from existing threads, it just dawns on me that I positioned the bit centered to the thread, but later plunge cut it at 29 degree angle using the compound.  So that completely messed it up.

I was so confident (bit mistake) that I didn't both check or at least do a manual hand roll to check on existing threads.  It's a bit hard to do hand roll of the chuck at that low thread per inch count though (it's real hard).


----------



## pontiac428

westerner said:


> In my shop lately- I blew up my 3/4 drive to 1/2 drive socket adapter (impact rated) in an attempt to remove the harmonic balancer on my darling bride's Honda CRV. My 3/4 impact gun is old school, and a truly hard hitter.
> Any of these engines have a notoriously tight bolt.



Honda crank bolts are notorious for being difficult to remove.  I have two 3/4 drive tools for dealing with Hondas:  my trusty 30 lb 1970s Ingersoll Rand impact (works if I can get enough air to it) and my 52" "Mjolnir" breaker bar.  Heat helps.  More specific, heat and quench, heat and quench... repeat.


----------



## westerner

rock_breaker said:


> Another question, is it left .or right hand threads.





silverhawk said:


> Check that it isn't a left hand thread.





pontiac428 said:


> Honda crank bolts are notorious for being difficult to remove.


Thanks, guys! I appreciate the concern. I have access to factory repair manuals, and they mention NOTHING about left hand threads. Ford did a left hand thread on their fan nuts for a time there, and they were very good at noting that on the fan shroud. This engine has the crank pulley on the passenger side, and so a "clockwise" rotation from that end. Earlier Honda engines had the crank pulley on the DRIVER'S side, and therefore "counter" clockwise from that end. Does that make a difference? Did Honda send a memo that I did not get? I guess the answer would be to order a crank bolt, and check the threads. And ya, my Chicago Pneumatic 3/4 gun is freshly overhauled, and from the 70's. It is nearly too heavy for me to use one-handed anymore, and when I put the 1/2" hose on it,  "heavy" describes the sound of impact quite accurately I believe. I am soaking the bolt with my very best penetrating elixir, and I have borrowed socketry to punish. I will keep you all informed.


----------



## horty

westerner said:


> I am here for you, man! See my reply to your Counterbore post, ya?
> 
> In my shop lately- I blew up my 3/4 drive to 1/2 drive socket adapter (impact rated) in an attempt to remove the harmonic balancer on my darling bride's Honda CRV. My 3/4 impact gun is old school, and a truly hard hitter.
> Any of these engines have a notoriously tight bolt.
> I am in the process of machining a "bushing" to go from the 19 mm bolt head size to the smallest 3/4 drive socket I can find (7/8). When I blow THAT up, I will start welding small sockets onto bigger drives. Good fun. I had to machine the 19mm socket down to 1" OD to fit my 5C collet, so that I could chuck that up into my 6 sided collet block, so I could size that to smash fit into the 7/8 socket. I may drop a little brass or solder into THAT mess in an attempt to "get er done".
> After all, why would I send this to the local shop and pay $300 to get this done, when I have already spent $5000 on the "machine shop" in my garage?


*My son had the same problem with his, he used a air chisel with a blunt end and after about 15 min of pounding on the nut it finally came loose, It must have stretched the nut enough to loosen it..*


----------



## pontiac428

Hondas are right-hand thread.  Starting in about 1988, Honda Vtec engines did rotate in reverse compared to convention, but the solution for them was to simply make a bolt that fits too tight to ever come loose due to engine rotation.  There is a dirty little trick if the engine is still in the car- put a breaker bar and socket on the crank through the side of the driver's front wheel well.  Place the handle of the breaker bar against the ground (don't hold it, best to stay clear).  Disconnect the ignition fuse and crank the engine.  It works.  I prefer to use a big impact, but in a pinch... Also, if the crank pulley has never been removed, you will need heat.  Not a lot, you'll ruin your front main seal if you overheat it, just a good 300F or so to soften the factory thread locking compound.


----------



## Latinrascalrg1

In between trying to remove the nut/bolt I found it quite useful at times to flip the script and give a few wacks to tighten then switch to back to trying loosening and if its possible to heat the fastener that would help.


----------



## westerner

pontiac428 said:


> Disconnect the ignition fuse and crank the engine.
> I have done this before, but it sure makes me nervous. I am picturing one starter pinion tooth against one flywheel tooth. I just came from the dentist, and this whole "tooth" thing just plain hurts....





pontiac428 said:


> Also, if the crank pulley has never been removed, you will need heat.
> This is the key, I will bet. I will order a front main seal, because I KNOW how I am
> 
> Thank You, Mr. 428.


----------



## westerner

Sorry to combine your words and mine. Seriously, I am only 3 hours away from the dentist's chair, and well, you know, I am probably NOT in my right mind.


----------



## pontiac428

Another useful tool for Honda crank bolts is called a torque multiplier.  It's basically a little planetary gear that has a square drive in and out with a lever to hold (er, wedge) in place.  Torque goes up by the multiple of the gear ratio.  I used to use them on tank undercarriages and heavy off-road trucks with 53" Goodyears.

The best thing that you have in your favor is that the engine is still in the car.  The first one I did wasn't.


----------



## westerner

Thanks to all for advice on the Honda crank bolt. See the pic for the setup that did the trick. I did not use heat, only the magic elixir applied twice in 24 hours. This same setup, with NO elixir, blew up my Cornwell 3/4 to 1/2 drive adapter. The adapter pictured is from Horror Fright, still in one piece. The experiment is flawed due to the elixir and the hammering that killed the Cornwell tool but the HF tool IS made in Taiwan!



	

		
			
		

		
	
 Sorry for blurred and upside down.


----------



## DavidR8

I didn't work in the shop so much as on the shop.
I'm taking out one of the passage doors, filling in the space so I can mount an electrical panel and run 60A 240v service. Currently running off a 15A circuit. Once I get 240v I can use my Unisaw.


----------



## DavidR8

Installed two panels of siding to cover where I removed one of the garage passage doors. 
Dug a 25 ft long trench to run proper electrical to the garage and mounted the panel. 
Roughed in the conduit. 
So done for the day. 
Tomorrow I pull wire. 
Stoked at the prospect of 240v in the shop!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ChrisAttebery

I designed and CNC machined a stop rod clamp to use my tapping head arm stop on my drill press. I've had a stop rod screwed to the table for a couple years and it always seems like it's in the way. This one clamps onto the quill with one 1/4-20 cap head screw. The stop rod is just long enough that it won't interfere with anything.


----------



## DavidR8

Pulled the wire today. Went flawlessly. 
Couldn’t find the right size/make of breaker for the main panel so no 240v Unisaw love just yet. 


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## Winegrower

I installed over the past couple months an Ingersol Rand 5HP compressor.   It was a bit of a project, had to pour a pad outside and cover it.   It was good running the air lines just where I wanted them, and having local pressure regulators at the mill and lathe, for an air chuck and mister, and a pull down hose for tire inflating, a task i’ve always hated slightly.
But today, I just contemplated the rest of the wiring...220V single phase, but there is nothing so simple that with some more time I can’t complicate.  A new sub panel, maybe a transfer switch, a local disconnect, etc.   So I did nothing today.   Paralysis by analysis.


----------



## extropic

ChrisAttebery said:


> I designed and CNC machined a stop rod clamp to use my tapping head arm stop on my drill press. I've had a stop rod screwed to the table for a couple years and it always seems like it's in the way. This one clamps onto the quill with one 1/4-20 cap head screw. The stop rod is just long enough that it won't interfere with anything.



Nice work on the clamp and rod.
My instinct would have been to extend the arm (on the tapping head) so that it stopped against the DP column. It seem vastly simpler.
Is there some advantage to your approach that I'm not understanding yet?


----------



## DavidR8

Winegrower said:


> I installed over the past couple months an Ingersol Rand 5HP compressor. It was a bit of a project, had to pour a pad outside and cover it. It was good running the air lines just where I wanted them, and having local pressure regulators at the mill and lathe, for an air chuck and mister, and a pull down hose for tire inflating, a task i’ve always hated slightly.
> But today, I just contemplated the rest of the wiring...220V single phase, but there is nothing so simple that with some more time I can’t complicate. A new sub panel, maybe a transfer switch, a local disconnect, etc. So I did nothing today. Paralysis by analysis.



I hear you!
I still have to rewire the entire shop as there is exactly one outlet in the whole place. 
Lights are terrible also. 
But that’s another day. 


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## savarin

Winegrower said:


> Paralysis by analysis.


Love it


----------



## silverhawk

I wanted a diamond insert wood turning tool.  I didn't get the handle complete, and I haven't cleaned the scale off of the square bar, but I did get the Hazard Fart mini mill out and mill the flat and bevel for the insert, drilled and tapped it to fit.  Even though it is not done, it is still usable.  I already made a round one.  I'd like to make a large square one (skew chisel format) and a parting tool.  I'll figure those out at some point.












Wood turning is so different from metal turning.  I'd pretend that I made it for a left-handed person, but I do my wood turning with my right hand.  It was simply a mistake to not get the insert perfectly square.  It's still usable, though.


----------



## ChrisAttebery

Thanks extropic.

The instructions for the Tapmatic X series specifically warn against extending the stop arm. 

"Never extend the length of the standard stop arm supplied with your tapping attachment. A lengthened stop arm could break free hitting the operator and causing serious injury."



extropic said:


> Nice work on the clamp and rod.
> My instinct would have been to extend the arm (on the tapping head) so that it stopped against the DP column. It seem vastly simpler.
> Is there some advantage to your approach that I'm not understanding yet?


----------



## westerner

Winegrower said:


> Paralysis by analysis.


This has happened more times than I can recall. I walk out to the shop on a nice summer Saturday. I look about the area, and reflect on the projects at hand. I try to pick one that I WANT to do. Failing that, I try to pick one I NEED to do. Failing that, I try to pick one MY WIFE needs me to do. It is at this point that I start to contemplate the meaning of life, and what it all REALLY means. Next thing I know, I am down at the figurative "fishing hole"


----------



## nnam

Today I welded a female 1/4 npt air adapter to a portable air adapter to get a siphon sprayer to work.

www.walmart.com/ip/Auto-Car-Engine-Cleaning-Gun-Solvent-Air-Sprayer-Degreaser-Siphon-Tool-Gray/482990939

At first, the item appears to have a very good price ($7.83), free shipping to store.  It also says Fitting for 1/4in NPT,air line.
However, what was shipped is shown in the picture.

The thread is metric, 1mm pitch, but 11.something mm diameter.  So maybe it's 12mm with 1mm pitch.

So I put a female npt steel adapter on the end and welded it to the existing adapter.

It works pretty well.  However, I noticed that it uses alot of air.  I have 5 gallon portable air tank and it took 3 refills pretty quickly for one small can of denature alcohol.

I wonder what you would use as cheap solvent to clean up grease.  I see Dollar general Mean Green Super Strength that may work.


----------



## Tim9

*Paralysis by analysis*.
I love that. Waste so much time and energy by over analyzing simple things. Sometimes it’s best to just do it.


----------



## nnam

I have been using a smaller band saw so I put off fixing the larger one.  Today I finally re-cut a crown for my larger bandsaw wheel. 
 I traced the outter lip (which was untouch/original) for the angle and it appears to be 5 degree using an indicator and no movement.  I cut 5 degree across the face and tested it out with a new blade.

The saw cuts 1" thick steel super smooth.  I am so happy with it.  I never cut this bandsaw this smooth before since I bought it used.


----------



## DavidR8

I ran a 240v branch circuit so I could plug in my new-to-me 1965 Unisaw. 
Totally stoked by how smooth and powerful it is!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## C-Bag

westerner said:


> This has happened more times than I can recall. I walk out to the shop on a nice summer Saturday. I look about the area, and reflect on the projects at hand. I try to pick one that I WANT to do. Failing that, I try to pick one I NEED to do. Failing that, I try to pick one MY WIFE needs me to do. It is at this point that I start to contemplate the meaning of life, and what it all REALLY means. Next thing I know, I am down at the figurative "fishing hole"



^This! Plus one more added complication Engineer to Stock. My current project has all the above. My SO found a tent style shed in a yard sale cheap and it served us well until the tent cover started to die. Turned out it was the same $$ to cover it with corregated roofing as the tent cover, so we roofed it. But the ends were still tent and one end finally completely died. The shed has been useful because it's 10' long and where I store my Engineering Stock that I find on CL and anyplace else I can pick it up cheap! So I'm all in and trying to make an end door in a tent shed that's like trying nail jello. I tell myself it's good mental exercise for these crusty old synapses to figure this all out so instead of complete paralysis it's more like slo mo. I also have the added pressure often needed that we might finally have some rain on the way......


----------



## nnam

Today I made a graduated dial for a milling machine.  The hard part was to find a rod that I can cut down to press fit the piece to cut in a lathe.  I finally found one, but I don't have that many large pieces metal laying around.
The interrupted cutting was hard on the lathe.  I wonder if someone has a solution to this, other than cutting many small straight line using a band saw before feed it to a lathe.  A grinder would work very well too, but a bit noisy and dusty.

I still have the inscribing part to do.


----------



## nnam

I am getting some inscribing done on the dial.  Not great, but work ok with me.  There are alot to go, major and minor lines and numbers.  Lots of repeated work.  When I have time, I just keep chipping at it.


----------



## nnam

I got the major and minor lines in.  But I need to go over some lines again.




Since the division of the index plate happen to be a whole number, I much later learned that I can do it much faster by reduce the number of sector arm movement by 40 times.
Basically doing 1 full circle each time, 40 times.  Then move the sector arm 1 time.  Repeat that 5 times, I would get 200 small lines.
But too bad, I learned that way too late.


----------



## nnam

Today, it was raining outside, so I tried hard to tell myself to work in the garage again (the winter blue is a bit hard on me).  My 3 phase rotary converter stopped working.  I thought it was something to do with the capacitors.  I checked every one of them with a meter, and they all looked ok (with the uf rating, not true test).  So I wiggled all the connections and they seems good.
For a good measure, I went back to each connection and tighten them up good.  I also happen to have a same size start capacitor, so I replaced it since it  couldn't start.  While I was at it, I saw the motor has 2 oil ports, so I put in some oil, and I didn't know what oil to use, so I just used way oil 

After that, it started up really well and I don't know what caused it.    It's likely the start capacitor.

After that, I did a boring, and I think the chips messed up the surface a bit.  I used a toothbrush to clear them up, but I guess blowing air continuously on it would help.  What do you when boring to clear up the chip?  I am really worry about blowing air, since that push chips deep into machine area that they shouldn't be there, although I saw many people doing it.

After that, I did some interrupted cut and some chips landed on my hands, which is really hot.  I ended up doing it 1 hand and cover it with a small cardboard.  Works great temporarily.  People must have a better solution than this, but I didn't see anything like that on youtube.  Maybe they just use auto feed.  I am just a bit worry about the interrupted cut, and want to back up asap if anything bad happens.

The interrupted cuts also gave me another problem.  Somehow I just couldn't dial in the cut right between cuts.  So I checked and the carbide insert moved.  Looked closely, it was held down by a little screw.  It was part of a lot I bought before.  So I took it out and it turned out it was on top of another insert, which had the middle "bolted" down with a pin.  The top inserts moves around because it was barely pushed down on the top.  I bought the lot from a closed machine shop auction.  I suppose the person doing that must knew what they were doing.  Why would they stacked inserts like that?  I just cut with the bottom insert only and it worked without problem.


----------



## mmcmdl

Just getting started for the night , but organizing as usual . I'm going to keep only one Vidmar so I'm emptying out everything and completing sets of reamers , taps , drills , clamps , etc . This is an ongoing process and the wheels of progress turn slow , but they are turning .


----------



## DavidR8

mmcmdl said:


> Just getting started for the night , but organizing as usual . I'm going to keep only one Vidmar so I'm emptying out everything and completing sets of reamers , taps , drills , clamps , etc . This is an ongoing process and the wheels of progress turn slow , but they are turning .



Feel free to shovel stuff my way!


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## mmcmdl

I don't have a big enough shovel or enough helpers , only 2 out of 3 have available hours tonight . Holly is working the packing tape , and Cooper is sorting thru taps .


----------



## mmcmdl

My helpers have pooped out , and I have more buckets . ( good help is hard to find ) . This will keep me busy for a while sorting thru this stuff over the cold months .  The basement is quite loaded with things and I'm finding junk as I go thru the buckets . To me it's not a big rush . I spend the time as I have it , but my helpers have been slacking lately .  As you notice , no machines . They are in the garage that looks the same as this . The shop down the other place is similar . It's like I say , it'll get done one day .


----------



## Aukai

Good looking helpers.


----------



## ThinWoodsman

Most of what I've done today has been directly _outside_ the shop - clearing the foot (and counting) of snow in front of the barn, along with the big pile the plow guy always leaves before he remembers that I actually use the barn.


----------



## derfatdutchman

On Sunday I finish leveling the new mill, the leveling feet made the process quick and easy. My original plan was to winch the old mill/drill out of the shop, but mother nature had other ideas.


----------



## nnam

I got my self some files lately (those on the yellow envelope to the bottom).  It all started a long while back with the long top file.  I realized it cut metal very well.  So I looked closely, it's a "Johnson" made in USA.  It's a file just like some china made files I have.  They all have "sharp" teeth, but this one cuts.  I didn't know files cut by then.  I thought they "grind" things.  So I read about it (and posted here).  I learned that just like other things machinists do with metal, they cut.  That makes sense.

So I saw these new to me files and bought them.  Some are Nicholson, made in USA.  Some are Heller, also made in USA.  One is Delta, not sure where it was made.  A couple made in Europe (Finland and Switzerland).

I also found out that knife files are both excellent on steel and in-expensive.

Maybe those are enough and I shouldn't buy anymore.


----------



## ThinWoodsman

Nah, you need about four or five times as many, not counting the needle files and the rifflers.
You tried any Grobets yet? Outstanding cut in their swiss pattern files.
Got hold of some Inox files (also by Grobet) recently. Still getting used to them - was hoping they'd do well on HSS but they mostly just skate over it.


----------



## nnam

ThinWoodsman said:


> Nah, you need about four or five times as many, not counting the needle files and the rifflers.
> You tried any Grobets yet? Outstanding cut in their swiss pattern files.
> Got hold of some Inox files (also by Grobet) recently. Still getting used to them - was hoping they'd do well on HSS but they mostly just skate over it.


That's a lot of files.  I have 2 set of needle files, but they're harbor freight.  I never heard of rifflers before.  They looks like wood working files.
I checked but no Grobets.  However, I found I have another very coarse file (maybe for wood), made by Nicholson from Columbia.


----------



## savarin

I love the nicholson magicut on aluminium, produces an almost mirror surface with care


----------



## Stonebriar

I made two shelves for the top of my lathe. One across the back and one over the gear box. Used a rubber mat for the cushion.


----------



## nnam

Stonebriar said:


> I made two shelves for the top of my lathe. One across the back and one over the gear box. Used a rubber mat for the cushion.


Very nice.  How did you keep it so clean?


----------



## nnam

Today I bought an oiler cap for my lathe.  The tiny 1/4" oil push in tube with a spring cap.  It came with a wick.  So I managed to squeeze the wick in.  I checked and there wasn't any wick inside, or at least the hole is rather deep.  After I got the wick in, I put in some oil, but it took forever for a few drops of oil to come down.  So I managed to pull the wick out again.  I wonder if I need to push the wick really deep down or not having the wick at all.
Or find a service manual and look up to see if there is wick in there and do the same.  This is on the tail stock.  There are two of them in there.


----------



## Nogoingback

Like a lot of Logan owners, the dials are too darn small for me to see easily.  Today I finished inscribing the lines on my larger crossfeed
dial.  Just need to make a handle for it and figure out how to jig up the number stamps.  I also cut a keyway in it by the Mr. Pete method.
Material is 416 SS.


----------



## benmychree

Not the best thing to run the longest lines all the way across the dial, it leaves no place to stamp or engrave the numbers.


----------



## pontiac428

I thought he would lay out the stamps like 5|0 6|0 7|0...


----------



## benmychree

how about zero?


----------



## pontiac428

Well, he can't put the metal back, so maybe "zero" will be a "phi".  I'd probably go with 0|0 for digits.


----------



## nnam

Nice engraving though.  Mine didn't look look and I was in a process of making a second one.


----------



## benmychree

zero zero makes sense!


----------



## Firstgear

nnam said:


> Very nice.  How did you keep it so clean?


If you clean up after every use it isn’t too difficult.  I find that I do that after every project on my mill and when I feel like it with the lathe.


----------



## Nogoingback

benmychree said:


> how about zero?



The line under the zero is an intermediate length line, so there's room to center it.  Pontiac has it right: the plan is to have numbers on each side of the line for the others.


----------



## Nogoingback

nnam said:


> Nice engraving though.  Mine didn't look look and I was in a process of making a second one.



Thanks.  I'm pretty happy with the way they came out, though I would change the way I did it slightly next time.
As you can see from the pic, I used a cemented carbide tool to cut the lines. (Because I had a couple of brand new ones
on hand.).   On the first one I snapped a bit of the tip off when I backed up the tool after cutting a line.  After I changed tools, I backed out the cross slide each time I finished a line and then reset the depth before the next cut.  That was a little more time consuming, but it worked better.  Next time I'd probably just grind something in HSS.  DOC was .006.


----------



## nnam

Today I am looking to set up a carbide grinder.  I am waiting for a silicon carbide wheel to come, but surprised to find I have something maybe it.  
It has this label: 

pg3m 6x1x1 cc90

The part cc90 is a guess.

The other side is a diamond wheel.  Not sure the speed is too fast for it.

I need a nut, maybe a wheel cup and an adjustable tabke rest.


----------



## Diecutter

I have been using a similar setup for years to sharpen carbide lathe tools.  A 6" bench grinder running at 3,500 rpm with a diamond wheel bonded to steel. I run mine dry and make sure the direction of the wheel is towards the cutting edge which reduces micro chipping of the edge. Don't use the diamond wheel on steel; it's not effective, nor good for the wheel.  On brazed carbide tools, relief grind the steel with a regular wheel, then grind the carbide only with the diamond wheel.  I would like to see more pics when done.


----------



## Winegrower

The captivity overcame me, I just had to make something.   Awhile ago I posted about making a tilt table, which turned out really well, and surprisingly useful.   I have had troubles with my V-blocks being too large occasionally, so I made a smaller and simpler pair for the mill to hold smaller round items.     

Making two identical blocks, trying to be as accurate as possible lead to retramming  the mill.  

The tilt table is very quick to set up, with the flat at 45 degrees and the previously aligned vise.   Checking with a 45 angle block, the table angle comes out as exact as visual checking can be, so basically perfect.   It was easy to scribe a reference midpoint line on one block, put the end mill flute exactly on the line and move the table in Y and Z the same amount to get a good V.    

I think these little blocks will be useful fairly frequently.


----------



## nnam

Diecutter said:


> I have been using a similar setup for years to sharpen carbide lathe tools.  A 6" bench grinder running at 3,500 rpm with a diamond wheel bonded to steel. I run mine dry and make sure the direction of the wheel is towards the cutting edge which reduces micro chipping of the edge. Don't use the diamond wheel on steel; it's not effective, nor good for the wheel.  On brazed carbide tools, relief grind the steel with a regular wheel, then grind the carbide only with the diamond wheel.  I would like to see more pics when done.


Thanks.  I was making a backing plate for it, but then think through this again, and I have to shelf the grinder.  There are too many things to fab for this, especially the safety cover, while I am in the middle of other projects.  I also have other "complete" grinder that I should get them to working perfectly.
Other than that, I was looking at a few way to true these things up.  This grinder has about 2 to 3 thous off.
A little update on this ... I ended up taking out a grinder that I was rebuilt before.  It had a run out issue.  One was 2 thous, and the other was 5 I think.  I took it apart and used a press to true both of them.  The 5 thous end now is about 1/4 thous, while the 2 thous is now 1/2 thou.  This would have been super easy to do when I was rebuilding it, but that's when I didn't know much about grinder.  I just finished putting it back, but now need to get a better electrical cable for it since the segment inside case, it melts.  The motor says 10.5 amp.

Update 2: I checked the side edge of the shaft for play and use a file to true it up.  I am not quite sure, but I think maybe it's good to about 2 thous.  I regret not put the motor rotor and shaft  in a lathe to true it up.  That would be much quicker and better.  I also took the 4 wheel flanges and cut a very thin slide off the center on a lathe to true it up.

I saw some make the flanges themselves, which has tighter inner radius and thicker.  Before, the grinder would walk, but now it is still.  However, a nut still fall off if I put it on top of the motor.

I put thin painter tape around the plastic shaft adapter.  That gives a tight fit.  I tried to do the same on the shaft.  It was close, but not close enough to get the adapter on it.  Making dedicated adapter out of steel or aluminum would work good.  I may do that someday if this grinder doesn't give a good result.

I am very happy with it though, since I didn't dress the wheels yet.  They're visibly out of round when I turn them. 

Comparing the dressing wheel with diamond dressing T stick, which would be better, or they have their purposes.  I feel like the wheel is better at removing coarse wheel with large amount, while the T stick is for finer dressing, but that's a guess.  In your experience, what would you use?

Here is the grinder I was working on.  Have been put it off for years


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## DavidR8

A little more than a year after I got my Unisaw I finally finished the mobile base tonight. Got the extension table support in and mounted and I tapped the holes in the cabinet and bolted on the uber-rare cast iron motor cover. Feels good the have it finally on the saw.


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## Cadillac

Have heard of a lot of car breakins within our town. Have the ring doorbell and am part of their community updates. I decide to be alittle proactive and make a nice warning sign for the deadbeats. Friend has a plasma table so we came up with this nice little sign. My son wanted it painted like his archery target which I thought was a pretty good idea. Plan on putting on a stake like others do for their security system sign.


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## Cadillac

duplicate deleted


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## Lo-Fi

Made a quick change tool post:


Most accurate work I've done on the mill so far.


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## nnam

After truing up the other grinder, and the staying at home, I decided to true up the other grinder as well.  The hardest part is how not to destroy the bearing when take it apart.

Here are some pictures.


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## DavidR8

nnam said:


> After truing up the other grinder, and the staying at home, I decided to true up the other grinder as well.  The hardest part is how not to destroy the bearing when take it apart.
> 
> Here are some pictures.
> 
> View attachment 321631
> View attachment 321632
> View attachment 321633
> View attachment 321634
> View attachment 321635


Wow, I sort of thought the armature would be a bit larger than that.


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## pontiac428

Cadillac said:


> Have heard of a lot of car breakins within our town. Have the ring doorbell and am part of their community updates. I decide to be alittle proactive and make a nice warning sign for the deadbeats. Friend has a plasma table so we came up with this nice little sign. My son wanted it painted like his archery target which I thought was a pretty good idea. Plan on putting on a stake like others do for their security system sign.
> View attachment 321607


The only concern that I have with that type of sign is it could be interpreted to read, "Wait until I'm not home and steal my guns."  I used to have signage until I realized theft-driven meth freaks see only the prize you're dangling in front of them, and not the warning. My preferred sign would read, "Danger: Landmines."


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## Janderso

pontiac428 said:


> The only concern that I have with that type of sign is it could be interpreted to read, "Wait until I'm not home and steal my guns."  I used to have signage until I realized theft-driven meth freaks see only the prize you're dangling in front of them, and not the warning. My preferred sign would read, "Danger: Landmines."


I always wondered why someone would put, "Protected by Smith and Wesson" on their vehicle. Hmm, let's see, which one has a gun I could steal?

Or, advertising your favorite adult beverage on your back window or bumper? Hmmm, I wonder if he has been drinking?


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## Cadillac

I would think people with a common sense would read it as don’t mess with that guy. But I messed up by thinking people had common sense??? If they decided to rob the house they’ed  have to get past the mouser safe which they ain’t carrying out. They would only get my bedside pistol if they can find it.  Besides I have mostly retired folks on my block that know what you’re doing all the time. Call them Hawkeyes. Let them try I hope I’m home!


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## Cadillac

nnam said:


> After truing up the other grinder, and the staying at home, I decided to true up the other grinder as well.  The hardest part is how not to destroy the bearing when take it apart.
> 
> Here are some pictures.
> 
> View attachment 321631
> View attachment 321632
> View attachment 321633
> View attachment 321634
> View attachment 321635



Are you using jack stands as V-blocks? Two different jack stands too? I don’t think that’s precise enough to tweak a armature shaft? You need to have that on a surface plate with precise v blocks to get a accurate reading


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## nnam

Cadillac said:


> Are you using jack stands as V-blocks? Two different jack stands too? I don’t think that’s precise enough to tweak a armature shaft? You need to have that on a surface plate with precise v blocks to get a accurate reading


My first sander that I trued above (the larger 8" one), it has bearings on both ends.  Truing it was very easy on a jack stand, since I was able to rotate very lightly.

Truing the 2nd one on the jack stand was more challenging as you said.  Putting it on carpet makes it even worse.  However, once I got to the point that it doesn't move much after a few rotations (showing consistency with a black marker I put on it), I felt it was good.  But you're absolutely right, I should have fabricated up something that it doesn't move, and even put temporary bearings on it (given that truing will be as accurate as the bearings themselves).


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## Janderso

nnam said:


> After truing up the other grinder, and the staying at home, I decided to true up the other grinder as well.  The hardest part is how not to destroy the bearing when take it apart.
> 
> Here are some pictures.
> 
> View attachment 321631
> View attachment 321632
> View attachment 321633
> View attachment 321634
> View attachment 321635


I got so fed up with vibration I just make my own washers and spacers/hubs. Even the nuts do not usually have a flat perpendicular surface.


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## Tim9

Cadillac said:


> Have heard of a lot of car breakins within our town. Have the ring doorbell and am part of their community updates. I decide to be alittle proactive and make a nice warning sign for the deadbeats. Friend has a plasma table so we came up with this nice little sign. My son wanted it painted like his archery target which I thought was a pretty good idea. Plan on putting on a stake like others do for their security system sign.
> View attachment 321607


I know those may look nice....but here in New Orleans any gun related decals on the car is an invitation for a broken car window because the thugs figure you might have a gun under the seat or in the glove box. 
  Put the same thing on your house....they might break in there too. In my opinion....best not advertise you have a gun. Anyway, always nice having the element of surprise.


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## Tim9

Janderso said:


> I always wondered why someone would put, "Protected by Smith and Wesson" on their vehicle. Hmm, let's see, which one has a gun I could steal?
> 
> Or, advertising your favorite adult beverage on your back window or bumper? Hmmm, I wonder if he has been drinking?


   Totally agree. A little story. A while back...I got into a conversation with the ATT technician who was working on my DSL. ( DSL... that’s another story )

Anyway he was a real nice black guy. Conversion moved to the subject of the NOPD. This was pre Katrina and before the NOPD fell into its Federal Consent Decree. Technician said his high school son was constantly getting pulled over by the cops and getting harassed. And on my end....I was in total agreement as this behavior seemed to be the norm in New Orleans at the time. The cops were truly a force to be feared in New Orleans at that time. FWIW....since the consent decree....it’s like night and day. Number of crap arrests and harassment by cops is way...way...way down.
   Anyway...the black technician tells me that he got a St. Augustine High School bumper sticker for his sons car and since putting that sticker on his sons car....the son hasn’t once been pulled over by the cops.
  The reason this worked is because the St Augustine Purple Knights....have more high school graduates who become NOPD cops than any other high school in New Orleans. It’s a great school by the way with by far the best high school marching band in Louisiana.


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## Tim9

rock_breaker said:


> I have never touched a Honda with a tool but will ask a question about heating the bolt. In reading about tight bolt problems that question comes up quite often and especially with modern cars. Thread locking seems to have come of age in the last 20-30 years IMHO. Good luck in getting that bolt loose. Another question, is it left .or right hand threads.
> Have a good day
> Ray


Thread locking is most usually nothing more than some sort of Loctite. Reading the Loctite papers on their website says most of these systems do break down with heat. Using a butane torch usually does the trick. Most of the Loctite thread lockers break down around at about 250-300 degrees Fahrenheit.
   I always just heat any bolt which gives me trouble. A butane torch and a IR thermometer does the trick.


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## royesses

I decided to try making a flipup threading tool holder, based on the design from this web page:





						Flip-up Toolholder
					

Screwcutting enabled without disengaging half nuts using an automatic flip-up tool-holder




					journeymans-workshop.uk
				



Halfway down that page is a link to download his blueprints. It is for his 10" lathe so I made  mine to fit for my 7x16 mini-lathe. I didn't copy the blueprint, I made some modifications to suit me. It works great. My mini-lathe has a metric lead screw installed so I don't use the threading dial. I just leave the half nuts engaged and use the forward/reverse switch to control direction. With the flipup holder there is no need to back off the cross slide. When the lathe reverses the tool bit lifts up. When the lathe is stopped it falls back down to do the next cut. Sorry for the poor focus photos. I used my Iphone instead of my camera and the Iphone focuses wherever it wants. I included a test piece of 3/8" 4130 scrap to check operation at 16tpi. It worked  and had no problems. I used hydrogen peroxide with sodium chloride to rust blue the holder. No particular attention was paid to make anything pretty, it is just a tool. No prep on the 3/8" threads, just picked up the rod from the scrap bin and cut threads. 

Roy


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## Tim9

Very, very slick Roy. I like it.


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## hman

Nice!  Kinda reminiscent of the clapper box on a shaper.


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## Bamban

Finished a 30BR barrel from a 17T LV Krieger blank for my brother. He shoots varmint for score benchrest. The Borden action is glued in so I had to make a go gauge to match the action thread  The barrel will use a Loker tuner. 

Here is the quality check on the chamber from start to the area area ahead of the throat.

Watch "PM1440TV 30 BR LV Krieger 17T" on YouTube


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