# Yet Another Logan Lathe!



## 6of1 (Mar 14, 2018)

Hey everyone, I am in the process of a deep clean/rehab of a new to me 1941 Logan 200 stamped# "11107" on tail-stock end and "C   10   7" under head-stock. Anyone know what the stamping under the head-stock is? Oct 7th maybe? Maybe the "C" stands for a facility or shift? Were the serials sequential?

I have plenty of other toys, mostly for woodworking and mechanic-ing but this is my first lathe (wood or metal) and I have always wanted one. Seems like another good way to lose a digit. This one kinda fell in my lap from a customer of my brothers wanted some garage sqft back. I bought it sight unseen, he turned it on and showed my brother it spun (he wouldn't know the difference between a lathe and a sewing machine). It also came with a bunch of its original stuff I think. Steady rest, 3 jaw chuck, 4 jaw chuck, 2 face plates, collets w/the tube part w/wooden handle, 11 change gears, 2-3 Jacobs chucks & a bunch of other crap, lol. I'm sure I am missing pieces tho.. It also came with a 30gal parts washer that a smarter man would have used to clean the lathe parts.. All the above for $150 delivered, _by my brother_.

I didn't even install the motor, I just started cleaning. It was so bad I couldn't look at it. I have the machine apart, mostly cleaned and an starting the reassembly. I am not painting the machine, just a good cleaning. It was covered in filth so bad I had to soak parts in diesel to remove the crud. It had a mangled cross-feed screw on the handle end so I Fleabayd a replacement. I'm sure I am going to have "issues" the community might help me with and maybe in turn somebody else will find it useful.

I have the head-stock partially reassembled at this point. Backgear shaft and gears, spindle, cone pulley & the shift lever assembly that changes the lead-screw rotation are all back on and the head-stock is mounted back on the bed. I'll get some pics and upload them soon.

Here are some pics of the disassembly!


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## Old junk (Mar 14, 2018)

Steady rest worth the price alone ,nice project.glad to see someone saving the old stuff from the scrappers.


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## Lordbeezer (Mar 14, 2018)

You did real good....welcome to the forum..


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## Bob Korves (Mar 14, 2018)

6of1, you came to the right place to find help and encouragement.


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## Chuck K (Mar 14, 2018)

Nice score.  I hope you got the tailstock with it.


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## Nogoingback (Mar 14, 2018)

You got a great deal on your lathe!  Be sure to ask questions as they come up and welcome to the Forum.


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## RandyM (Mar 15, 2018)

Thank you for sharing. Looks like a lot of happiness is in your future.


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## 6of1 (Mar 15, 2018)

Thanks guys! I joined up here at HM because there seems to be plenty of helpful Logan owners, last forum I went to doesn’t even have a Logan section. 



Chuck K said:


> Nice score.  I hope you got the tailstock with it.



Yup I did, for some reason it was one of first parts off and on the floor when it got here so it didn’t get pictured. 

I am going to attempt to update y’all with my phone, I apologize in advance if the pics are rotated or upside down & typos. 

I had a few hiccups yesterday putting the headstock back together. It took 2 or 7 tries to get the back gear eccentric shaft back in. Don’t ask me how I did it. 

Next was the main bearing. I hope I got it greased enough. I couldn’t get it off the spindle, was afraid of damaging it. So packing it by hand was my only option. I wanted to try vacuum packing the grease but couldn’t with it on the spindle. When I removed the dust covers they were packed full of grease like peanut butter. So I did my best to repack them like they were but with a modern grease. If this keeps me up at night it’s not that difficult to pull the spindle back out. 

First real “wtf” moment while reassembling was the retaining bracket for the Fwd/Rev lever. Every time  I would tighten the two screws I couldn’t shift the lever. All I can think of is there was a spacer/shim under that bracket and I lost it in the cleaning. I made a new one out of three layers of coke can. (See pic 2) Works good now and doesn’t wobble. 

Got the lead screw cleaned and reinstalled which was uneventful thankfully. Today I think I will work on the apron & saddle.


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## Briney Eye (Mar 15, 2018)

Welcome to the Model 200 Club.  Looks like good original paint under the dirt.  I've had mine for about a year-and-a-half.  They're great little lathes within their limitations.  I've been having all kinds of fun with it.

How did you clean the spindle bearing before repacking it?  The old grease in mine was almost crumbly, so I soaked it in Pine-Sol overnight and flushed it really well, repacked it with Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease, reassembled it with a 40" serpentine belt, and it's been working great.

I'm in the process of setting mine up with an electronic lead screw to easily do any kind of thread pitch and not have to mess with the change gears.  I keep "refining" the code and putting off mounting up everything on the lathe, but other than feeding to a shoulder everything is implemented and I don't think I can put it off much longer.  So watch this space if you think you would be interested in doing something similar to yours.


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## ACHiPo (Mar 15, 2018)

First, welcome.
Second, fantastic score!
Third, (but I mean that in the nicest of ways--I spent a LOT more than that on mine)


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## 6of1 (Mar 15, 2018)

Briney Eye said:


> How did you clean the spindle bearing before repacking it?  The old grease in mine was almost crumbly, so I soaked it in Pine-Sol overnight and flushed it really well, repacked it with Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease, reassembled it with a 40" serpentine belt, and it's been working great.



Since I couldn't remove the bearing from the spindle shaft it was a process.. Wish I took more pics but my hands were filthy and going in my pocket for phone wasn't happening. Mine was about like you are describing, crumbly very thick and it was PACKED in there. When I say packed I mean from aluminum cover (inside) to bearing end cap (part with 3 screws) it was FULL, NO air space. The rear bearing was the same, FULL.

As for the cleaning, the Main bearing and spindle were soaked in a coffee can of fresh diesel. I would let it soak for an hour, take it out and blast the crud out with air chuck, then repeat.  After doing this about 6 times it seemed pretty clean so I sprayed it down with brake cleaner and let it dry over night.

I then got extremely hung up on what grease to use, came to my senses and said screw it. According to some internet guru, any modern NLGI grade 2 is 10,000x better then the peanut butter I washed out of it. Had the wife stop at NAPA (_auto parts not wine_) and grab me a tub of Sta-Lube Wheel Grease.

Packing the main bearing is the part I'm nervous about. I smeared it in from both sides and did all I could to get it all the way through but its not very easy when still installed on the spindle. I then added a bunch of grease to the inside of the head-stock and installed the keyholed aluminum cover and tapped in the main. Grease evacuated the inside aluminum cover like a play-doh toy, I assume this means its full. I also put a fair amount of grease on the inside of the End Cap before screwing it down, which also oozed out. Followed by tapping on the grease seal.



Briney Eye said:


> I'm in the process of setting mine up with an electronic lead screw to easily do any kind of thread pitch and not have to mess with the change gears.  I keep "refining" the code and putting off mounting up everything on the lathe, but other than feeding to a shoulder everything is implemented and I don't think I can put it off much longer.  So watch this space if you think you would be interested in doing something similar to yours.



That sounds very interesting, threading is something I will want to do. Not looking forward to changing gears to do it though. I do wish it was a QCGB model but beggars cant be choosy, lol.. I wish it had a QCTP, just the lantern post for now.



ACHiPo said:


> First, welcome.
> Second, fantastic score!
> Third, (but I mean that in the nicest of ways--I spent a LOT more than that on mine)



Its OK, I'm sure I will make up the difference in parts I break due to stupidity or medical bills... 

Update: I got the saddle and apron assembled so far, Had to run to Lowes for jam nuts. The cross-slide on this lathe had a mangled lead-screw (see pic). The new one I fleabayd didn't like the jam nut I had so rather then play with it I just bought new ones for $1.07. They didn't have stainless so I got zinc coated and they are the shiniest part on the lathe so far, lol.


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## Nogoingback (Mar 15, 2018)

I looks as though your lathe is cleaning up nicely.  I don't think you need to worry about not having enough grease in the spindle
bearing: you may find that as it heats up some of it will run out since you packed it so full.  After all, wheel bearings on cars aren't 
usually packed full.  Is the bearing smooth?


At the price you payed for all that stuff you got a tremendous deal, which gives you a little headroom if you have to spend a little
$$$ to get it up and running.


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## ACHiPo (Mar 16, 2018)

6of1 said:


> Its OK, I'm sure I will make up the difference in parts I break due to stupidity or medical bills...



Come to think of it, you paid half what it cost me to recover from crashing mine!  Yeah, it'll all even out.


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## 6of1 (Mar 16, 2018)

Nogoingback said:


> Is the bearing smooth?



Yup! Feels smooth to me.



ACHiPo said:


> Come to think of it, you paid half what it cost me to recover from crashing mine!  Yeah, it'll all even out.



What part did you kill so I can try and avoid it, lol..

Update:
Well I had another hiccup yesterday. After installing the saddle, apron and cross-slide I tried to install those 2 new jam nuts and handle but it wasn't happening. This is the used screw I got online. The previous owners set screw for the handle boogered up the threads at the key-way (a keyed handle would have made more sense). Thought maybe I could just chase them with a die but that didn't work. Took it all back off and removed the screw to look at the threads. I had to clean them up with a file before I could install the nuts.

Here's some pics of where I'm at! I am going to try and get all the extra crap laid out on the floor and take a pic so you guys can tell me what the hell I have and whats missing..


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## Nogoingback (Mar 16, 2018)

You're talking about the cross feed shaft and handle, correct?  On my 200, the handle has a pin in it that acts the same 
way as a key, preventing the handle from rotating on the shaft.  Yours has a set screw?


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## Briney Eye (Mar 16, 2018)

I'm amazed that the original tailstock wrench stayed with the lathe.  AND the dauber!


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## 6of1 (Mar 16, 2018)

Nogoingback said:


> You're talking about the cross feed shaft and handle, correct?  On my 200, the handle has a pin in it that acts the same
> way as a key, preventing the handle from rotating on the shaft.  Yours has a set screw?



Yup, and by the looks of the screw I got from fleabay it had the same setscrew and 2 jam nut setup. I tried my best to center it in the key way so it doesn’t do more damage. Hopefully the handle won’t need to be removed any time soon. 



Briney Eye said:


> I'm amazed that the original tailstock wrench stayed with the lathe.  AND the dauber!



All this crap came with it too but I think I’m missing pieces for the 2 smaller faceplates. Isn’t there a dog leg or something that rides in the U shape to hold the part being machined? A few of these live centers are far from alive. I will have to try giving them a soak and see if they start spinning again. A few things I have no idea what they are. I have to admit my favorite part might be the old metal milk crate it all came in, lol.


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## Chuck K (Mar 16, 2018)

I see what looks like 3C collets which makes sense.  What are the larger collets in the pic?  I can't seem to enlarge the pic on my phone to see a closeup.


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## 6of1 (Mar 16, 2018)

Chuck K said:


> I see what looks like 3C collets which makes sense.  What are the larger collets in the pic?



I dont know why the pics cant be zoomed in, they are huge on phone.. I am uploading them directly from the iphone. Maybe its converting them?

No idea, I was wondering myself. I am assuming they were for his milling machine (said he sold that years ago) bc I can’t find a way to mount them on the Logan. I think they fit together like in pic (both are keyed).  I think the milling machine is also where the hold down set is from..

The last pic of random parts I have no clue.  Mixture of homemade stuff weird square rock and a plumbob, lol.


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## ACHiPo (Mar 16, 2018)

6of1 said:


> What part did you kill so I can try and avoid it, lol..


I was finishing the side of a large cylinder mounted to a face plate (i.e. the saddle was VERY close to the headstock), focused on the quality of cut, when I heard a crunch.  Yep, there is no clutch in the power feed, and I stripped 3 gears in the quick change gear box.  The good news is that replacement gears are available.  The bad news is that it cost $300 for 3 gears.  Definitely a learning experience!


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## 6of1 (Mar 17, 2018)

It’s ALIVE! It spins and other then the drive unit being a bit noisy seems to be working. He did tell me the motor was rebuilt 2 years ago so I hope it out lives me.

Well I got anxious and decided to get the motor and drive thrown on. I don’t think it’s installed correctly, meaning the way it’s mounted to the headstock (see pics). It was obviously “re-engineered” at some point. The hinge parts bolted to headstock are backwards for some reason and these bronze spacers have been made. Also the bolts are sloppy loose in the holes. Like 1/2” hole with 1/4 bolt loose.

So maybe the first thing I will be making is delrin or nylon bushings?
Anyone like to ponder a guess as to why this modification was made? Cause I can’t think of one.

Also I think the lathe was stored for a few years at some point in 2 different locations. The level of patina (nice way of saying rust) on the drive cover and the lathe itself are night and day different.

I have added a pic of the change gears that were in the crate. What is a full set? Sizes?

As always thanks guys for your help


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## Chuck K (Mar 17, 2018)

There should be pins with rubber dampeners that hold the drive unit on.  You can see the hole for the set screw that secures the pin in the pic.


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## 6of1 (Mar 17, 2018)

Ok I think I know why it was re-engineered at some point and also why the patina on the drive is different then the lathe. 

My lathe originally used the LA-16 drive box (see pic 1). It had bosses built in and the hinge on lathe were setup like mine. 

My drive box is version LA-16-2 (see pic 2). In this version the bosses are removed and the hinges are flipped 180 to mine. 

So for now I guess I will just make a 3D printed bushing to fill the difference between the 3/8” bolt and the 5/8” hinge hole and put back in the bronze spacers.


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## 6of1 (Mar 17, 2018)

Yay! I used the lathe to open up the 3D printed bushings I made for the drive box. ABS plastic, baby steps  they might not last but the drive box is now centered instead of wobbly. 

Got it pretty much assembled, it’s in less pieces then it was when it got here. Need to get a few more odds and ends make it complete. Wipers, maybe a cross slide nut and I think a half nut set,  unfortunately.


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## rambin (Mar 17, 2018)

theres a guy that makes half nuts goes by Jayhawk machine believe it was in iowa?  I sent mine down he sent a rebuilt set back forget the price. but he uses brass to rebuild them...new ones from logan will be more expensive and made to the original cast iron which will just where out again.... google that name and you should find some info..i had his card here at one time...but where is now???


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## MBfrontier (Mar 18, 2018)

Nice find and great price! As others have said, the tooling that came with it exceeds what you paid. You are doing a nice job cleaning it up as well. My 200 is serial no. 15012. Good luck with it and have fun.


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## Briney Eye (Mar 18, 2018)

6of1 said:


> Yay! I used the lathe to open up the 3D printed bushings I made for the drive box. ABS plastic, baby steps  they might not last but the drive box is now centered instead of wobbly.
> 
> Got it pretty much assembled, it’s in less pieces then it was when it got here. Need to get a few more odds and ends make it complete. Wipers, maybe a cross slide nut and I think a half nut set,  unfortunately.



Good job on the bushings.  I think I got my replacements from eBay.  There is what looks to be a pristine set of half nuts on eBay right now for $130 plus $7 shipping.  Logan sells them new (LP-1090) for $155, and I think the shipping is about $27.  It doesn't look like Jayhawk has any in stock right now (on eBay), but you might contact him and ask.


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## rambin (Mar 18, 2018)

yes check with Jayhawk directly don't go buy whats on ebay...  he didn't have any in stock when I dealt with him either but I sent my castings and he fixed them up fairly quickly and returned them rebuilt..  his name is mike Neville cant find his card but im sure if you google his name or the company name something will come up


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## 6of1 (Mar 18, 2018)

I messaged him via eBay, hasn’t replied yet but it’s the weekend so he might not have seen it yet.


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## 6of1 (Dec 26, 2018)

Well its been a while, just thought I would post some updates.

Got the garage cleaned (didn't last long) and the machine in its place. Found a big box of brand new heavy-duty leveling feet at the church yard sale and got it leveled to the best of my ability with multiple carpentry levels. It will have to do until I get my small machinist level re-calibrated.

I never got in touch with Jayhawk about rebuilding my half-nuts. I tried multiple times/methods and didn't receive a reply. Ended up finding a set on eBay with very little wear, 15-20% worn max. They should out last me, might try and rebuild my old ones eventually. Installed in about 10mins and are night and day better then the old ones.

For Xmas I got a QCTP, Carbide insert tool set and Felt sheet (for wipers). Install in progress...


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## rambin (Dec 26, 2018)

try this...sorry i forgot i had it in my contact list guess its a bit late now...   jayhawkman35@hotmail.com


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## 6of1 (Dec 26, 2018)

rambin said:


> try this...sorry i forgot i had it in my contact list guess its a bit late now...   jayhawkman35@hotmail.com


I think I have that email also. Its all good though, thanks.

I have an issue maybe someone can clarify. I don't think I have the right QCTP. I was under the impression that I needed a #100 AXA. The one that was purchased for me said it is a *#100 AXA for 9-12" Swing Wedge Type. *My issue is.. I started putting tools in the holders. Even at the lowest possible placement on the QC and holder, tool is still above the center-line of work piece. It's obviously not gonna work that way, any ideas? 

I will try and get some pics uploaded shortly.


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## 6of1 (Dec 26, 2018)

If it makes any difference, the carbide insert tools are 1/2"


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## 6of1 (Dec 26, 2018)

Pics..


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## wa5cab (Dec 26, 2018)

Well, it may not help much but the AXA or 100 Series of QC's, although they will just barely hold 1/2" square tooling, were designed for 3/8" square.  Note how in your third photo, the 1/2" cutter sticks out from the side of the 102 holder.  And although the three photos aren't taken so as to allow determining it, if you check the locations of the four tapped holes for the screws that hold down the cutters, you should find that the center line of the holes is about mid-way between 3/16" and 1/4" from the vertical surface that forms the back of the tool holder slot.  So that the center of the screws can bear near the center-line of 3/8" square cutters and 1/2" boring bars.  Going to 3/8" square cutters and cutter holders will lower the cutters 1/8" and might be just enough to get them on center.

And besides, 3/8" cutters and cutter holders are usually quite a bit cheaper than 1/2".


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## 6of1 (Dec 27, 2018)

wa5cab said:


> Well, it may not help much but the AXA or 100 Series of QC's, although they will just barely hold 1/2" square tooling, were designed for 3/8" square.  Note how in your third photo, the 1/2" cutter sticks out from the side of the 102 holder.  And although the three photos aren't taken so as to allow determining it, if you check the locations of the four tapped holes for the screws that hold down the cutters, you should find that the center line of the holes is about mid-way between 3/16" and 1/4" from the vertical surface that forms the back of the tool holder slot.  So that the center of the screws can bear near the center-line of 3/8" square cutters and 1/2" boring bars.  Going to 3/8" square cutters and cutter holders will lower the cutters 1/8" and might be just enough to get them on center.
> 
> And besides, 3/8" cutters and cutter holders are usually quite a bit cheaper than 1/2".



The post and holders were bought as a set, this set. 

I see what you are sayin.. TY! I found a punch in my toolbox with a 3/8" square handle and put it in the tool holder. With the tool holder sitting on the compound it is a bit below the center-line. The 1/2" shank set is on the way back to store already. As soon as the refund is processed I will order the 3/8" shanked set.

This last bit confused me until I re-read it a few times, just to clarify... Maybe I am using the wrong terminology.


wa5cab said:


> 3/8" cutters and cutter holders are usually quite a bit cheaper than 1/2".


You were meaning _3/8" shank carbide insert holders are cheaper then the 1/2" type_, right?


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## Nogoingback (Dec 27, 2018)

6of1 said:


> I think I have that email also. Its all good though, thanks.
> 
> I have an issue maybe someone can clarify. I don't think I have the right QCTP. I was under the impression that I needed a #100 AXA. The one that was purchased for me said it is a *#100 AXA for 9-12" Swing Wedge Type. *My issue is.. I started putting tools in the holders. Even at the lowest possible placement on the QC and holder, tool is still above the center-line of work piece. It's obviously not gonna work that way, any ideas?
> 
> I will try and get some pics uploaded shortly.




The AXA tool post is the correct size for a Model 200, but if you want to use 1/2" tools it's a problem.  Remember, these machines
were designed with lantern tool posts in mind, not QC tool posts.  The compound on the Logan sits a bit high as a result.
I had exactly the same problem with my 200, so I used 3/8" tools initially.   My long term solution was to machine a solid mount
that replaces the compound but is not as tall.  So, unless I need the compound, which isn't very often, I can use 1/2" tools.  When
the compound is needed, I use 3/8".   The bonus of the solid mount is that it's much more rigid than the
set up with a compound.  This was not a simple solution of course but well worth the effort.


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## wa5cab (Dec 29, 2018)

6of1 said:


> This last bit confused me until I re-read it a few times, just to clarify... Maybe I am using the wrong terminology.
> 
> You were meaning _3/8" shank carbide insert holders are cheaper then the 1/2" type_, right?



Yes, but even more generally, 3/8" square brazed carbide cutters, and for that matter, 3/8" square HSS blanks.  I should have prefixed the statement with some weasel words like "for the same quality."


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## rambin (Dec 29, 2018)

just curious well were on the subject here....  would he be able to use the half inch cutters if he used the axa extra deep holders? since he already has a set.  not sure why the regular ones can be had on amazon for free shipping but these xl ones cant


xl axa


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## Nogoingback (Dec 29, 2018)

The extra deep holder I have is higher at the top,  so no gain on tool height.


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## wa5cab (Dec 29, 2018)

Same with the three that I have.


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## rambin (Dec 30, 2018)

mines about a 1/16th lower and a 1/16th higher.  guess one could always take a bit off the bottom of the holder


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