# Quill Lock Repair....?



## EmilioG (Jan 1, 2019)

I’m trying to remove and replace the parts for a BP j vari speed quill lock. The lock is very loose and heavy cuts cause movement.  

Could the clock spring on the quill handle also be involved?   How do you remove those lock pieces? There are two. I’ve read that shimming or placing a spring is a good temporary hack.  

Very frustrating to see the quill move when flycutting.  Please advise. Thanks


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## jmanatee (Jan 1, 2019)

To remove the quill lock,  unscrew the quill lock handle from the quill lock bolt.  Then unthread the quill lock bolt and the two lock shoes should come out.


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## jmanatee (Jan 1, 2019)

I forgot to write, A Bridgeport is not like a drill press,  Your quill spring should hold the quill where you leave it,  it should not be so tight that it returns the quill up.


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## Cadillac (Jan 1, 2019)

If your working on a Bridgeport doesn’t the quill only have one way to lock? On my step pulley head the quill lock Looks like this L in the pic. 


To remove thread the little lever off round section. Then unscrew the round part which will have a long thread which screws into a brass cone that is what “locks” the quill. The brass cone can be worn or give the round head another rotation in if it can be adjusted. If not mistaken that wedge can be taken out from backside of quill.


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## EmilioG (Jan 1, 2019)

Thanks. But how does it come out? Do you tap Them both out? There are two pieces inside. One is tapped. Do both parts come out from the front? 

 I think they are worn and I don’t want to jam them. Maybe I should buy the two new brass parts. I couldn’t find any information on removal.


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## JimDawson (Jan 1, 2019)

The front one comes out the front, the back one pushes out the back. You might need to grind a bit off of the ''tips'' to allow them to get closer together.  And also may require a shim between the lock handle and the front piece to make it lock up.

The front one just has a hole through it, and the back one is threaded.  No need to remove the quill to service.


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## Technical Ted (Jan 1, 2019)

Yep, Jim has it right. This lock type is called a "split cotter". Replacing the clock spring will not help.

Ted


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## EmilioG (Jan 1, 2019)

Thank you. Where does the shim go exactly, around the brass or on the handle threads? Any way to gage the thickness of the shim stock to find the correct thickness? Will a feeler gage help?  Appreciate all the help.


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## Cadillac (Jan 1, 2019)

The thread must be bottoming out not allowing the brass to seat against quill. Try putting a washer on bolt to “shorten” the unthreaded part of bolt.


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## Bamban (Jan 1, 2019)

Thank you for this thread. When I bought my BP S1 VS, the lock has to be engaged otherwise thd quill goes down. I never knew any better, I thought that is the way it is supposed to work, have been using that way.

Now, I have another project to do. What are the parts that need to be replaced most likely?


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## EmilioG (Jan 1, 2019)

https://www.machinerypartsdepot.com/store/1478157/page/552237


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## Technical Ted (Jan 1, 2019)

Bamban said:


> Thank you for this thread. When I bought my BP S1 VS, the lock has to be engaged otherwise thd quill goes down. I never knew any better, I thought that is the way it is supposed to work, have been using that way.
> 
> Now, I have another project to do. What are the parts that need to be replaced most likely?



If your quill just drops without it locked then you need a new clock spring or clock spring with new housing depending on the vintage of your machine. If you're lucky, maybe the clock spring just came off its' key/post and you can simply put it back on.

Ted


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## Technical Ted (Jan 1, 2019)

EmilioG said:


> Thank you. Where does the shim go exactly, around the brass or on the handle threads? Any way to gage the thickness of the shim stock to find the correct thickness? Will a feeler gage help?  Appreciate all the help.



Depends. Is the handle hitting the housing keeping you from tightening it any more? If so, a shim will help. If you are snugging the screw handle up firmly and the split cotter is not holding the quill in position then you have a different problem, like maybe the threads on the screw are buggered up or too short and not drawing the two halves of the split cotter together enough to tighten on the quill. Or, maybe there is crud in between the two halves of the the split cotter and you can't draw them together because of that.

Ted


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## EmilioG (Jan 1, 2019)

If I can remove the split cotter halves without ruining them, I can inspect and maybe clean them up.  The parts are not too expensive, so replacing them may solve the problem. Thanks


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## Technical Ted (Jan 1, 2019)

Take a long bolt, all thread or whatever that has the same thread as the handle/screw. Screw it in. Tap the bolt or threaded rod and knock the back SC half out the back. Once that is removed, you'll have access to tap the front half out from the back (the front one comes out the front).

If you have the time and this is a hobby, why not make a new SC if that turns out to be the problem (but it is unlikely that they are actually worn that much). 

Once you get them out and everything cleaned up the actual problem will be a lot easier to figure out. 

Ted


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## EmilioG (Jan 2, 2019)

Thanks to all. Fixed the quill lock by just adding a washer. The vari speed j head mill is getting sent out for a complete refurb from H&W., and we’re getting a new refurb as well.   Looking forward to nice shiny machine.


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