# Solid Tool Post Mount



## ddickey (May 4, 2017)

I remember a discussion a while back but couldn't find it in my search. 
After watching Robrenz's video several time I have a question someone here can answer i'm sure. I don't understand the dowel pin he's talking about. Did he actually drill a hole for a pin? Does the pin also sit in the base? Are there two other holes drilled into the tool post for the set screws to push against the dowel pin?
Also, you'd be limited to only using inserts for this type of set up as you would not be able to move the post, correct?


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## jbolt (May 4, 2017)

The tool post has a factory hole in the bottom for a dowel pin. A mating hole is drilled into the solid base. He is using two set screws on one corner to drive the tool post against the dowel pin. The solid base is fastened to the cross slide so the whole assembly is fixed. No turning the tool post. The goal is to make the tool as rigid as possible. Most inserts are designed to be parallel or perpendicular to the work so no real limitation. Custom ground HSS tools can be made to get around the lack of a compound. The solid base is not permanent so if the compound is needed for something in particular it could be installed.

I did something similar on my PM-1440GT.


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## epanzella (May 6, 2017)

Eliminating the compound results in a huge increase in rigidity.


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## ddickey (May 6, 2017)

What material did you use for your block? 
I can't see a mounting plate so assuming a one piece block.
Yours is not locked in place, correct? Looks like you can still rotate your post.


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## Frank Ford (May 6, 2017)

I made mine of two pieces because that's what I had handy, and bolted it directly into the compound mount:







Here's all about that project:   http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/Projects/HeftyToolPost/heftytoolpost.html


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## epanzella (May 6, 2017)

ddickey said:


> What material did you use for your block?
> I can't see a mounting plate so assuming a one piece block.
> Yours is not locked in place, correct? Looks like you can still rotate your post.


The block is whoknowsium from the scrapyard. I tapped four  3/8x16 cap screws attaching it directly to the xslide. .The chinese QCTP is held on by a post threaded 5/8x11 on the lathe end and whatever metric thread the toolpost nut had on the TP end. There are no pins. It's prevented from turning by friction just like when it was on the compound. Very rigid, never turns. I tapped 3 of
the 5/8x11 holes in the block for various TP setups. Below are the parts.

.


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## jbolt (May 6, 2017)

epanzella said:


> Very rigid, never turns.



You're just not trying hard enough.


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## 4GSR (May 7, 2017)

This is a little off topic.

Saw a goof ball shop owner I worked for while in college, take a 10 foot piece of rigid EMT on a 3/4" breakover and tighten down the nut on a Aloris EA size tool post to keep it from moving.  They were trying to take a cut 5/8" deep with about a .024" feed rate on a steel bar about 9" in diameter by 12 foot long.  It still moved and shook the lathe off it's mount trying to cut. This was on a 36" Monarch lathe!  Just so much you can do.  Had to use that 10 foot cheater by myself to break it loose after their fiasco I had to fix and finish the order!  It cut all day long at just under 1/2" deep and the same feed rate! And didn't need a cheater pipe to tighten down the Aloris tool post!

Ken


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## Frank Ford (May 8, 2017)

Even more off-topic, and just for fun,  here's a shot of a cheater my pal, Lloyd used to break some nuts free on an old forklift:


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