# How Do You Cut Screws To The Proper Length?



## rwm

I don't know about you guys, but I often find myself cutting screws shorter for various projects. Usually I hacksaw them and grind down the end. I find it hard to get the length just right and sometimes mess up the threads if the saw slips. 
I am thinking about a purpose built jig or even a whole tool to deal with this common problem. I would like to know if anyone has a special tool for this and what various techniques people use for this task. Any ideas appreciated.
R


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## xalky

If length is critical, I usually put a nut on to the screw where I'm going to cut it. Sometimes I'll put 2 nuts on and lock them together. Then I cut against the nut with a hacksaw or band saw. The nut served 2 purposes, to hold the length and to form the threads on the screw as you back off the nut. The nut does it for me.


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## John Hasler

rwm said:


> I don't know about you guys, but I often find myself cutting screws shorter for various projects. Usually I hacksaw them and grind down the end. I find it hard to get the length just right and sometimes mess up the threads if the saw slips.
> I am thinking about a purpose built jig or even a whole tool to deal with this common problem. I would like to know if anyone has a special tool for this and what various techniques people use for this task. Any ideas appreciated.
> R



For small screws I have a combination wire cutter/stripper that shears them off.  It has threaded holes in one jaw at a point where the jaws overlap and the other jaw is hardened and sharpened.  Larger ones I cut with the bandsaw (run a couple of nuts on first).  If I only need to remove a little bit I use the grinder.

When cutting screws with a hacksaw also use some nuts.  Put several nuts on, jamming a couple together to hold the screw, clamp the nuts in a vice, and cut next to one of the nuts.  Backing the nuts off will clean up the threads.


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## Terrywerm

I do like Marcel does, putting a nut on before cutting with a hacksaw. 

With small screws, up to #10 screws or there abouts, I use a crimp connector plier that also has threaded holes set up for the various size screws. Open the plier, thread the screw in to the appropriate depth, then cut off the end that is not needed, then remove the screw. No fuss, no muss.

I also edited your poll for you. Took me a minute to find where I could do so though!


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## Dave Smith

I just cut the bolt or screw by hand with a cutoff disc in an angle grinder or a small air die grinder to the length needed--then I hold the bolt to about a 45 degree angle to the grinder or sander and rotate the bolt once around---it works every time----putting a nut on first and then backing it off works ok--but still may have a sharp end on the screw that still needs to be ground smooth-----that's why I just grind them to begin with since it is faster---you don't have to find a nut--- and always works----Dave


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## rwm

Thanks Terry!
I am thinking of screws ranging from #4 to about 1/4". I have used the electrical pliers. I use a lot of SS hardware which is a little tough on them. I find it hard to hold some screws in the vise or band saw to cut them.
I want some way to make this process quick and accurate. It cannot take long to set up or use.
Two ideas occur to me:
Build a jig for my vertical bandsaw where the screw is held in a threaded plate. That would be quick and easy. The end would probably need to be ground a little.
Mount a threaded plate in my tool post and put a slitting saw in the lathe chuck. That would give a nice clean cut and be accurate but the setup is a little longer.
Other thoughts?
R


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## Terrywerm

Stainless screws do take their toll on a crimping plier, for certain. My favorite for stainless screws is a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool or a Foredom style flex shaft tool. Making your own die plate to thread the screws into, then cutoff with a fine cutoff disc  might be the way to go.


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## Vladymere

What you need to make is a screw gizzy.  Here is a link to a video about making one.  http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=13252/guntechdetail/Screw_Cut_Off_Fixture

Here is a link to a screw gizzy sold by Brownells.  http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...hing-wheels/screw-holder-gizzie--prod599.aspx

Vlad


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## Micke S

I use bolt cutters for up to 3/8" or 10 mm and put a thread die inside the cut, which is removed after cleaning the cut in a bench grinder. For larger bolts I use a grinding cutter.


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## rgray

I use the wiring pliers. I have a set for US and metric. Sizes above that go to the chop saw. I put a nut on to make them level.
Sometimes I just hold them in hand and cut with the 4" angle grinder with cut off blade..Grade 8's don't need a nut to take off and clean up the threads, on lesser grades it is handy to have the nut to straighten the end thread as it is removed.


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## Cadillac STS

Dremel tool and a cut off wheel.  Put a nut on first so it helps clean up the thread on the way off.


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## kd4gij

This thread got me to thinking.anic:  This HF tool might have a use after all. http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-61900.html  A 2" cutoff wheel some 1" angle drilled and taped for te screws. If you cut alot of screws.


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## zmotorsports

For small machine screws I have an old wire stripping tool that is used exclusivtely for screw cutting.  I then touch them against the 120 grit belt sander and dress the and with a slight chamfer.

If I need it to be "exact", I use a double nut to cut up to along with dressing it against the belt sander.  I also made some small holders to fit a couple of screw sizes in which I can use the 12" disc sander and then touch against the 120 grit belt sander.


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## Cadillac STS

kd4gij said:


> This thread got me to thinking.anic:  This HF tool might have a use after all. http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-61900.html  A 2" cutoff wheel some 1" angle drilled and taped for te screws. If you cut alot of screws.





My wife uses one of those for cutting wooden dowels.  I doubt it would cut metal.


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## Andre

Hacksaw then use a die to finish the threads. If I don't have a die for the threads I run around the end of the thread with a file or spin it while on the belt sander. Electricians pliers also work GREAT for cutting screws, built in die and all.


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## John Hasler

Cadillac STS said:


> My wife uses one of those for cutting wooden dowels.  I doubt it would cut metal.



You could replace the saw blade with an abrasive disk.


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## rwm

That is very interesting...
R


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## hman

For smaller screws, I generally use either a wiring tool (previously mentioned) or a Dremel.  Years ago, when I were a engineer, I had the model shop make me a screw plate - #0 thru #4 threaded holes, with a number of steps from 1/8" to about 1/2".  It's very handy if I need a specific length of a tiny screw.

I usually clean up the end of the thread with a 1" belt sander.  If the screw lends itself to the technique, I will hold the head in a cordless drill chuck to get a nice all-around bevel.

Rick Sparber is a member of this forum, and I aplogize if I'm taking his name in vain ... but he has several PDFs that deal with cutting (on a horizontal/vertical bandsaw) and cleaning up screws:

http://rick.sparber.org/BCF.pdf
http://rick.sparber.org/aubc.pdf
http://rick.sparber.org/dsv.pdf


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## Ulma Doctor

Vladymere said:


> What you need to make is a screw gizzy.  Here is a link to a video about making one.  http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=13252/guntechdetail/Screw_Cut_Off_Fixture
> 
> Here is a link to a screw gizzy sold by Brownells.  http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...hing-wheels/screw-holder-gizzie--prod599.aspx
> 
> Vlad



Thanks Vladymere,
i didn't know they were called gizzy's
and old machinist showed me the technique many many moons ago.
 He used angle iron so that it could be easily be chucked in a vise or easy to grab when using a bench grinder i may add.
we'd use an angle grinder or die grinder or bench grinder, dependent on the fastener diameter.
works like a charm! 
thanks for sharing!


[HMAN Quote
Rick Sparber is a member of this forum, and I aplogize if I'm taking his name in vain ... but he has several PDFs that deal with cutting (on a horizontal/vertical bandsaw) and cleaning up screws:

http://rick.sparber.org/BCF.pdf
http://rick.sparber.org/aubc.pdf
http://rick.sparber.org/dsv.pdf
Quote]

Thanks Also to Hman!!!
great info and PDF's thanks for sharing!!

mike)

P.S. I Bite EM' Off, Sometimes....:jester:


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## pjf134

The last one I did was a 2-56 and taped a plate then hacksaw flush and used a grinder or file before un screwing. I could not find the right length at my hardware store for that size. I did save the plate and will add to it when the need arises.
Paul


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## mikey

There are times when I need a screw of an accurate length but holding a small screw can be tough so I came up with a little tool that is very handy. 




I can hold up to a #10 screw with just about any head - SHCS, button head, pan head, etc - very solidly for hand grinding or I can chuck it in a lathe and cut the screw to a precise length. 

The brass heads have either a flat surface inside the bore or a 82 degree chamfer that will fit a #10 screw. For smaller screws I use a washer sized to fit a #6 or #8 screw to center the screw in the head. When the head is threaded on to the shank of either the hand tool or the shorter bar that chucks into the lathe the nose of the tool pushes the screw solidly into contact with the inside of the head and the screw is held very solidly.




For storage, one of the heads remains on the nose of the hand tool and the other, with washers inside, simply screws onto a retaining screw in the handle.




This tool works very well and holds the screw very solidly with just hand pressure on the head. Anything that distances your hand from a grinding wheel or belt is a good thing, right?


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## Cadillac STS

If I were to find the need to cut screws really often I would find myself a good source for screws and just buy them the length I wanted.


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## RandyM

Dave Smith said:


> I just cut the bolt or screw to the length needed--then I hold the bolt to about a 45 degree angle to the grinder or sander and rotate the bolt once around---it works every time----putting a nut on first and then backing it off works ok--but still may have a sharp end on the screw that still needs to be ground smooth-----that's why I just grind them to begin with since it is faster---you don't have to find a nut--- and always works----Dave



Best method there is, fast, cheap, and works perfectly every time.


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## Skarven

For small screws, I use the wiring tool with screw cutter and put a nut on short of the cutter, but for 4-5mm  and up I allways put 2 or (if room) 3 nuts on it and put it in the lathe 3-jaw. It is very easy to get the right shortening everytime if you have a DRO (Probably without a DRO too).  When the 2 or 3 nuts are removed, there is normally no need to clean up the thread. It is also easy to put a nice chamfer on in the lathe.
If you want rounded screw ends, use a radius milling cutter as a turning tool.

Kai


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## shorton

There's an aircraft parts company Aircraft Spruce IIRC that sells a little bolt shear that I thought looked nice.  Found it, here it is:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/screwboltshear.php?clickkey=21679

Pricey but looks nice...

I've got a spindle mount Jacobs chuck that for my SB9 that I've been using for #8 and #10's with my robotics kids.  But I haven't mastered parting on those yet and managed to crash the jaws once.


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## barrydc1

If I want them precise and they are long enough, I put them through a 5C collet on the lathe and trim them down to the proper length.  If they are short, I put a nut on them (or two if they are long enough) they are screwed tight to the nut or the two nuts are tightened so the bolt or screw won't rotate and then chucked on their flats in my 6-jaw on the lathe and faced to proper length.


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## Rick Leslie

I have a scrap piece of 3/16" plate that I drill and tap for the screw in question. I thread it in to the proper length and lock it with a nut. Then give it a quick tour of the bench grinder. When I back it out of the plate it cleans the threads.


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## rwm

I'm glad I started this thread. Lots of great tools and ideas.
I am torn between building a bandsaw jig and building a small cutoff saw with an abrasive blade. I may do some experiments to help me decide. What would be a good motor for a dedicated unit? I was thinking one like this might be good:
http://www.harborfreight.com/120-volt-circular-saw-blade-sharpener-96687.html
I would need a real narrow kerf cutting blade. 2" would be ideal.

R


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## Bill C.

xalky said:


> If length is critical, I usually put a nut on to the screw where I'm going to cut it. Sometimes I'll put 2 nuts on and lock them together. Then I cut against the nut with a hacksaw or band saw. The nut served 2 purposes, to hold the length and to form the threads on the screw as you back off the nut. The nut does it for me.



I find double nutting works great for me.  The nuts ensure there is no bad thread on the end.  I cut the extra length off then grind a chamfer using a belt sander or coarse grinding wheel.


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## Ranger

Wow after all this I feel a little anal about how I shorten my machine screws and bolts
I take a piece of 5/8 mild cold rolled steel, mount it in the lathe, drill and tap a piece about
3/8 to 1/2 or other length as needed, screw in the bolt in question, determine what length I need
mount that in collett chuck turn to length by facing until correct, then bevel the end at 60 degree
and then save the cold rolled piece for later use, I have about 30 of them various lengths and
threads

:nuts::nuts:


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## JimDawson

Well, you have nice accurate screws that way.


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## Lgotcher

I cut a large number of screws and bolts. The small ones I cut with an electrical crimping tool and then clean up on a grinder or belt sander. The larger ones (1/4" and up) I band saw off, grind or sand the end to desired shape then use a fine wire brush wheel on a bench grinder to clean up the threads. This leaves the threads so clean that the use of a nut or die  to straighten them is not needed.
Lee


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## rwm

I would like the 8 people who bite off their screws to post dental photos....
R


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## BillWood

Hello - I saw a jig somewhere either in a book or on a web page

See attached sketch



Bill


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## Ulma Doctor

rwm said:


> I would like the 8 people who bite off their screws to post dental photos....
> R




Here's mine:jester:


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## EmilioG

This info here is all good.  Some bolts, screws, etc.. are not made in short lengths.
i.e. SHCS (allen bolts).  I need some 10 mm SHCS in really short lengths but they are not made
so the ideas and methods here will come in handy. Thanks.


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## Tony Wells

I used to make a fair quantity of 5/16-24 x 1/4 SHCS for a customer. I simply made a plate with a row of tapped holes and screwed them through it snugly and put this plate on parallels in the mill vise and mowed them just above flush. Using a carbide EM at high speed, there wasn't much of a burr, and I twirled them on a wire wheel held by a hex key. Could do a couple of hundred in less than an hour.

I guess the few machine screws I cut I use the old wire stripper/screw shear. It's not often I need it.


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## rwm

After contemplating the discussions above I came up with this quick and dirty jig to be used on my vertical bandsaw.










I just insert the screw to the proper length (I can use a jamb nut to prevent it from turning) and set the rip fence for exactly 2". The threaded plate is CRS with holes for 4-40, 8-32, 10-32 and 1/4-20.
I am still toying with the idea of a dedicated chopsaw type machine with an abrasive blade. That might reduce the need for finishing the end of the cut screw. This works well for now.

R


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## Waterlooboy2hp

kd4gij said:


> This thread got me to thinking.anic:  This HF tool might have a use after all. http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-61900.html  A 2" cutoff wheel some 1" angle drilled and taped for te screws. If you cut alot of screws.
> 
> ==========================================================================================
> 
> I have one of those saws. The blade that comes with it, works well with soft metals, I use it for 5/16" brass rod, when making jets for carbs..  Also got a thicker blade for cutting screwdriver slots in the jets.  Runs to fast for steel. I did buy some 2" cut-off wheels. HF does not sell them though.  Found them on E-bay. They were even recommended for the HF saw, among others.
> 
> If you use the wheels for anything above 1/4, that is steel, "Bring Your Lunch".  You have to go slow, due to a lack of power from the motor.  You cannot put much pressure on the wheel. I used it to split a 7mm threading die. The material was about 3/8" wide and about 3/16" thick. Took me all of 15+ minutes to get through it. Glad I had only one to do.  The saw does what it was designed to do. Just not as much as you might like it to. --- John
> 
> ====================================================


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## darkzero

Usually I only need to remove short lengths from screws so I just use a simple strip of flat bar with holes tapped in it. I screw in the screw & grind down what I need on a belt sander or grinder.

The last one I made was alumn (figured it might help with heatsinking). It's pretty chewed up now but it's easy for me to make new ones as I have the DRO coordinates written down.

1 side goes from 0-80 to 5/16"-24. The other side goes from M2.5x.45 to M10x1.5


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## Billh50

zmotorsports said:


> For small machine screws I have an old wire stripping tool that is used exclusivtely for screw cutting.  I then touch them against the 120 grit belt sander and dress the and with a slight chamfer.
> 
> If I need it to be "exact", I use a double nut to cut up to along with dressing it against the belt sander.  I also made some small holders to fit a couple of screw sizes in which I can use the 12" disc sander and then touch against the 120 grit belt sander.




This it what I do all the time....seems I never have the right length screw. And sometimes no matter how many times I cut it it is still too short.


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## RJSakowski

John Hasler said:


> For small screws I have a combination wire cutter/stripper that shears them off.  It has threaded holes in one jaw at a point where the jaws overlap and the other jaw is hardened and sharpened.  Larger ones I cut with the bandsaw (run a couple of nuts on first).  If I only need to remove a little bit I use the grinder.
> 
> When cutting screws with a hacksaw also use some nuts.  Put several nuts on, jamming a couple together to hold the screw, clamp the nuts in a vice, and cut next to one of the nuts.  Backing the nuts off will clean up the threads.


I use the wire cutter/stripper/crimping tool as well.  One thing that I did with mine was to insert an appropriate tap from the threaded side and, squeezing lightly, cut a bit of thread in the clearance side.  It tends to keep the jaws from spreading and gives a cleaner thread.  

One of my to-do projects is to scale up that tool to cut threads up to 1/2".  The idea was to use two pieces of leaf spring for the shearing blades.  Weld a handle on one blade and a  mounting extension for use with a vise or permanent mounting to a workbench.


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## chips&more

I use a Stanley screw cutter as pictured for up to 5/16”. For more delicate work I use the two plate clamp method and file it, also pictured. If I’m really fussy, I will put the screw in the lathe and hold it with a collet…Good Luck, Dave.


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## rwm

chips&more said:


> I use a Stanley screw cutter as pictured for up to 5/16”. For more delicate work I use the two plate clamp method and file it, also pictured. If I’m really fussy, I will put the screw in the lathe and hold it with a collet…Good Luck, Dave.


I have never seen that Stanley tool. I can't even seem to find it on the internet. Do you know if it is still made or who has it?
R


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## chips&more

rwm said:


> I have never seen that Stanley tool. I can't even seem to find it on the internet. Do you know if it is still made or who has it?
> R


Maybe try “Stanley 84-205” for your search. Not sure if Stanley makes the thing anymore? If they don’t make it anymore, I don’t know why? Because it sure does do the job nicely. Way better than those little combo screw cutter/strippers. And check to make sure what threads it cuts. There are different ones with different threaded holes…Good Luck, Dave.


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## GSWayne

I tap holes in a piece of 3/16" x 1" steel bar.  Then thread the screw through, clamp the bar in the vise and then use a cold chisel to shear off extra length.  It makes a pretty clean cut and as you back out the screws it cleans up the threads.  I also use the wire strippers with the screw cutters, but I made my own cutter for metric screws.  6mm is probably as big a screw as I would want to try using this technique.  It looks like the picture in post #40 above.


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## Ben Nevis




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## xman_charl

*Made some of these, 3/8 - 1/4,






Put in lathe, use dremel for cuts, get length close to 1/16.

Charl*


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## JohnBDownunder

I took a piece of 6mm x 20mm flat bar, drilled holes along the centreline at tapping size of the most used threads I use ( 3,4,5,6,7,8,10mm) plus one hole about 13mm at one end. Spent some time tapping the various holes then cut a slot (thin slitting saw) along said centreline to split from far end to the 13mm hole. To cut a bolt / screw (I am assuming it is machine screws not wood we are discussing.) I screw it in the appropriate hole squeeze in the vise, hacksaw off and file. Works well for me and being painted red on the non sawing side is easy to see on the wall when needed.
  John B


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## TommyD

Double nut it so it doesn't spin in the vice, hack away on it with a dull hacksaw blade, flatten and chamfer the cut edge and chase out the threads with the nutz.


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## merenat

Apologies cause i read you more than i write.

And apologies cause i need two post more to be able for post photos. 

Enviado desde mi zapatofono por Rantamplan


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## merenat

And apologies for mi poor English too ￼ 

I use nuts with one cut in the side. 
In this way don't damage the threat and is completely fixed to do all we want with it.

Is usefull in the lathe too. 

I am surprised to see that nobody has mentioned before.


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## merenat

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//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160824/1e7684e96912969e275c59b1b11bee41.jpg


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## CluelessNewB

I have a Stanley 84-205A bolt cutter that I inherited from my Dad which works well up to 5/16".   What I didn't know until I just Googled this tool is that it is rather rare and goes for crazy big money on ePay.  It works like one of the combination wire stripper things but on steroids. For larger stuff I use the 2 nuts and a hacksaw method.  







Pictures found on web because I was too lzy to go take my own.


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## Fabrickator

Electrical Crimper for machine screws.  Anything larger, dbl nut and cut off wheel, chase thread with nut and dress smooth with grinder.  All -Thread I can use my collet chucks in the lathe.


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## ezduzit

Skarven said:


> For small screws, I use the wiring tool with screw cutter and put a nut on short of the cutter, but for 4-5mm  and up I allways put 2 or (if room) 3 nuts on it and put it in the lathe 3-jaw. It is very easy to get the right shortening everytime if you have a DRO (Probably without a DRO too).  When the 2 or 3 nuts are removed, there is normally no need to clean up the thread. It is also easy to put a nice chamfer on in the lathe.
> If you want rounded screw ends, use a radius milling cutter as a turning tool.
> 
> Kai



Shortening small machine screws using the a crimper (Klein is excellent)  you really don't need to add nuts, as the tapped hole in the tool chases the threads for you, if you insert the screw from the right direction.

Nor is a lathe needed to bevel the end. Very fast to simply spin the screw against a grinding wheel or sanding disc..


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