# New to me PM1030V



## r-mm (Dec 13, 2020)

Hey all

This week I traded up from a 7x14 mini to a pretty much new PM1030V.  Excited to set it up and get advice here. 

First it needs to arrive at its final resting place.   I loaded/unloaded with with an engine crane (first pic) and its now on a dolly (second pic).  The only problem is that there is a suspension-less project car entirely blocking crane access from the lathe to its bench (see pic).  I have the tail stock, compound removed.  Could remove saddle I suppose.  Has anyone and a few friends lifted one with no hydraulic assistance?   I suppose the backup plan is the ATV jack but that won't be a walk in the park either.  Before you ask: its a decent slog to get the suspensionless car on wheels or a dolly so its not the preferred technique...


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## 7milesup (Dec 13, 2020)

Specs says nearly 400lbs for the 1030.  I don't know how big your friends are but 4 is 100 each.  That is  alot of grunt.  Of course, most of the weight is on the headstock end making it more cumbersome.  Even lifting it up on a cart to wheel around the front of the car would be helpful.  Then slide/lift it onto the bench.


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## markba633csi (Dec 13, 2020)

I hope that's not a Lamborghini under that tarp


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## r-mm (Dec 13, 2020)

‘65 912


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## shooter123456 (Dec 14, 2020)

My brother, my Dad, and I were able to lift my 1030v from the pallet up onto the bench top.  2 of us on the headstock side, one on the tailstock side.  It is doable, but manuevering around that car might present a challenge for multiple people while holding the machine.


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## r-mm (Dec 14, 2020)

Thanks.  To be clear I can wheel it right up to where it needs to go on the dolly I just cant get any lifting equipment and its massive spread legs in there.   Maybe the three man pick with saddle removed could work.


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## r-mm (Dec 14, 2020)

Stripped down like this I think it may be liftable.

On my mini lathe I had an ER 32 Collett Chuck which was extremely useful. Can anyone recommend a Collett Chuck for this machine?


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## Larry$ (Dec 14, 2020)

I got my collet chuck from PM. Very nice 5C. It has the Tru-Adjust feature meaning you can dial it in to near perfect. I like it and use it far more than I thought I would. You need a set of 5C collets. Each collet doesn't cover much of a range so it takes a lot of them. The alternative is to buy one as needed. I got my set by 32's also from PM. They are quite accurate. @ the small end you need by 64s! Really nice to be able to grip threads w/o harming them.


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## Aaron_W (Dec 14, 2020)

r-mm said:


> Thanks.  To be clear I can wheel it right up to where it needs to go on the dolly I just cant get any lifting equipment and its massive spread legs in there.   Maybe the three man pick with saddle removed could work.



It sounds like a good excuse to get one of the Harbor Freight hydraulic carts, they have a 500lb for $179 or 1000lbs for $279 and I'm sure they go on sale frequently (HF is always having a sale).

HF hydraulic table



r-mm said:


> Stripped down like this I think it may be liftable.
> 
> On my mini lathe I had an ER 32 Collett Chuck which was extremely useful. Can anyone recommend a Collett Chuck for this machine?
> 
> View attachment 347347




You know what I have never seen that seems like it would be really handy for the Chinese lathes with flanged spindles? A threaded adaptor that fits onto the flange, 3/4"-16 would allow the use of the many Sherline and Taig accessories, and 1-1/2"-8 is very common on smaller vintage lathes, so there are a ton of accessories for this thread.

It probably wouldn't be that hard to make one, and you could use a locking pin if you were concerned with running the lathe in reverse. It would open up a lot of options, run the flange for the things you can find for it, run the appropriate thread where you can't.


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## T Bredehoft (Dec 14, 2020)

I purchased from one of the perveyors of machinery we see spoken of here (I forgot which one) an ER40 collelt mounted on a plate and from PM an adaptor for that lathe. The two together work well. Its the same adapter that comes on thier chucks supplied with the lathe.


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## Jim F (Dec 14, 2020)

Aaron_W said:


> It sounds like a good excuse to get one of the Harbor Freight hydraulic carts, they have a 500lb for $179 or 1000lbs for $279 and I'm sure they go on sale frequently (HF is always having a sale).
> 
> HF hydraulic table
> 
> ...


The Hydraulic lift table would work great, jus put the head stock end at the handle end.
I bought a similar table, larger to move my mill.


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## r-mm (Dec 14, 2020)

I don't see the collet chuck on PM site, am I missing it?  https://www.precisionmatthews.com/product-category/accessories/lathe-accessories/

Is there a size to search for if I look elsewhere?


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## r-mm (Dec 15, 2020)

I called PM - they confirmed they do not make collet chucks and that the mount is called DIN 55027 or 55022.  
I called Shars - they are familiar with the PM style and referred to it as 'European' and said nothing they have will bolt up.  

Looking for tips?  I'm frankly not good enough to make something myself at this juncture and would like the machine up and running with a collet chuck preferably ER40 asap.

Thanks


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## r-mm (Dec 15, 2020)

T Bredehoft said:


> I purchased from one of the perveyors of machinery we see spoken of here (I forgot which one) an ER40 collelt mounted on a plate and from PM an adaptor for that lathe. The two together work well. Its the same adapter that comes on thier chucks supplied with the lathe.



Would you be able to dig up the info on this purchase to help guide me?

Thanks


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## r-mm (Dec 15, 2020)

I have the machine set up - managed to do a sideways pick with the crane and happy to have it done. 

I have to say I'm finding the motor control scheme a bit odd.  I'll talk thru it just to be sure my machine isn't having a problem as the PO replaced the control board under warranty. 

Presuming E-Stop is deactivated, all other safeties are satisfied: 

Turning the F-O-R dial to F or R does nothing by itself.  Manual states this should light the tach.  

The green ON button does nothing unless direction dial is set to F or R. 

If dial set to F or R, Green ON button turns machine on.  If speed pot is at min, motor spins 50RPM.  If any other setting, motor doesn't run until pot turned to min.  After that there is no way to stop the motor without killing the machine entirely including the backlight to the tach.  

Turning the F/R dial to O kills the machine entirely.  Pressing the red OFF button kills the machine entirely.  I expected to be able to have the backlight on, motor at zero RPM. 

Is this how your PM machines work?


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## mikey (Dec 16, 2020)

r-mm said:


> I called PM - they confirmed they do not make collet chucks and that the mount is called DIN 55027 or 55022.
> I called Shars - they are familiar with the PM style and referred to it as 'European' and said nothing they have will bolt up.
> 
> Looking for tips?  I'm frankly not good enough to make something myself at this juncture and would like the machine up and running with a collet chuck preferably ER40 asap.
> ...



Your spindle mount is more common in Europe.





Emco used it and Rohm and Bison makes chucks with that DIN standard. You need to identify what your spindle mount size is, then go look for a back plate that will fit. I'm sure there is some Chinese maker that sells these, although the fit to the spindle taper has to be carefully evaluated once you get it. Note that the spindle taper is 7 degrees, 7 minutes, 30 seconds. This taper has to match the taper in the back plate because that determines how accurate the plate is. Then you need to sort out what the spacing on the bolt holes is and then you can search for a back plate. Once you find a source that is hopefully economical enough for you, buy several plates because you're very likely going to mount other chucks to your lathe.

I should think that PM would have plates to fit your lathe. You need to buy the back plate and fit the collet chuck to that plate.

Why do you need an ER chuck to get your lathe up and running? It should come with a 3 jaw that will hold stuff while you learn to run the lathe. A 4 jaw should come next. A collet chuck is commonly bought but not often needed in a hobby shop. The only time you really need a collet chuck is when grabbing a knurled or threaded or finely finished part that you cannot afford to damage when clamping it. For most of the things you will do in a hobby shop, a 3 jaw is the fastest one to use, grabs pretty good and, at least on a first operation, will be dead on accurate. For second operations, the 4 jaw is slower but is potentially the most accurate chuck available. Collet chucks are nice to have for the lathe but you don't really need them all that often.


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## Larry$ (Dec 16, 2020)

Collet chucks are great for small work. Especially for repetitive small work, I like being able to use the internal stop. 
A 3 and 4 jaw should be your first chucks.


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## r-mm (Dec 16, 2020)

Hello all 

I do have the 3 and 4 jaw chucks the machine came with.  I found collets very useful for the work I did with my previous mini lathe.  Thanks for the information.


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## r-mm (Dec 29, 2020)

I was focused on the collet chuck because the 3-jaw on my old mini lathe was quite horrible.  The 3 jaw on the PM is quite good and I've been getting good use from it.  

I do still want a collet chuck eventually and liked the ER style for their range of grip and ready availability.  I would like to buy just one family of collets to use for both lathe chuck and collet blocks on the mill.  I know there is not one "right" answer to any collet question but is it fair to say the ER40 would give good service in both applications?  

My approach to things like this when I don't know what I don't know is to buy a reasonably priced entry level (Typically read: Shars) set to see how it goes.  Any comment before I go that route?


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## Chris John (Dec 29, 2020)

Hope the car was not the classic masterpiece ...


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## Aaron_W (Dec 29, 2020)

r-mm said:


> I was focused on the collet chuck because the 3-jaw on my old mini lathe was quite horrible.  The 3 jaw on the PM is quite good and I've been getting good use from it.
> 
> I do still want a collet chuck eventually and liked the ER style for their range of grip and ready availability.  I would like to buy just one family of collets to use for both lathe chuck and collet blocks on the mill.  I know there is not one "right" answer to any collet question but is it fair to say the ER40 would give good service in both applications?
> 
> My approach to things like this when I don't know what I don't know is to buy a reasonably priced entry level (Typically read: Shars) set to see how it goes.  Any comment before I go that route?



If you just want one, ER32 seems to offer the most options, but ER40 seems to be catching up. ER40 collet blocks are starting to show up, but I've not yet seen an ER40 spindexer. 5C still holds the advantage for "other stuff", but with a spindle bore of less than 1-3/8" you lose the full benefit of 5C, since you can't use a collet closer and drawtube.

The chuck becomes the biggest cost for multiple ER sizes, you don't need to buy full sets of collets. ER32 is my workhorse collet choice but I've now got ER16, ER32, and ER50, but not the full range in each. My ER32 is complete 3/16"-3/4", but I only have ER50 from 7/8" to 1-1/4" to pick up where the ER32 leaves off (eventually I will probably bring it down to 3/4"). I have the full range of ER16 1/32 to 3/8" because I found a good deal on a full set, but since my smallest ER32 is 3/16" there is not a ton of overlap (ER32 can be had down to 1/16"). I also have some watchmakers collets for really small stuff.

The ER16 chuck is about 1/4 the size of my ER32 chuck, so can be handy when working on small things. The ER50 is easily 2x the size of the ER32 chuck, but since it only fits my bigger lathe the size isn't an issue (I think the diameter is bigger than the swing of the Sherline even if they offered the right thread, and it would take up almost all of the length on the Taig). I have it set where I can run ER16 or ER32 on the small lathes, the mills, rotary table and dividing head. I can use ER32 or ER50 on the 11" lathe, and ER16 or ER32 in its tailstock with an adaptor (but I haven't had the need so far).

I have some redundancy on the ER32 collets because I bought better quality collets specifically for tool holding in the common shank sizes.


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## erikmannie (Jan 1, 2021)

r-mm said:


> I have the machine set up - managed to do a sideways pick with the crane and happy to have it done.
> 
> I have to say I'm finding the motor control scheme a bit odd.  I'll talk thru it just to be sure my machine isn't having a problem as the PO replaced the control board under warranty.
> 
> ...



I have a PM-1030V, and that is exactly how it works. You will get used to it very quickly.

I press the red (“power off”) button to stop the chuck. Then I turn down the pot so that when I want to start the chuck again I just have to press the green (“power on”) button.


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