# Polishing a drill press column on the lathe - suggestions?



## Buickgsman (Oct 3, 2013)

I received the column for my drill press today.  It arrived and looks very good.  I, of course, want to polish it up.  OK, I admit that I like shiny stuff.  I used some 2000 grit paper on it, some scotch brite, and some steel wool, all by hand, and it polished it up some, but not super nice and shiny like I would like.  also, not quite as even.  If I mounted the column in the lathe and used a steady rest would that allow me to safely spin the column so I can polish it up with some scotchbrite or other material?  Would the steady rest leave a groove on the tube?  I'm using my Clausing 4900 to do this.  Suggestions are appreciated here.  Or, should I just get it close by hand and try to polish it up on a small buffing wheel with compound?  Might take a while I would think.  I don't need it to be too nutso, but the shinier the better.  
Thanks!
Bob


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## DAN_IN_MN (Oct 3, 2013)

The steady rest should not leave a mark.  Just don't tighten it real tight.  Don't let it flop around either.

Depending on what is making it not shiny, I'd probably start with something a bit rougher than 2000 grit say 400-600.


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## valleyboy101 (Oct 3, 2013)

Hi Bob,
I once did a nice job of shining up a fairly badly rusted round mill column.  I used 6" scotchbrite pad in a random orbital sander and auto body rubbing compound.  I suspect an even better polish could be achieved with swirl mark remover or some such thing and a felt pad in the same sander.
Good Luck,
Michael


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## Uncle Buck (Oct 3, 2013)

There is another web site I frequent dedicated to old USA made metalworking machines and woodworking machines where a guy had a thread showing exactly how he did this very thing for an old drill press column on a metal lathe as part of his restoration.

If you do not know the name of the site, PM me if you are interested and I will give you the name of the site. Sorry, that site name cannot be mentioned freely here.


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## Bill C. (Oct 3, 2013)

Buickgsman said:


> I received the column for my drill press today.  It arrived and looks very good.  I, of course, want to polish it up.  OK, I admit that I like shiny stuff.  I used some 2000 grit paper on it, some scotch brite, and some steel wool, all by hand, and it polished it up some, but not super nice and shiny like I would like.  also, not quite as even.  If I mounted the column in the lathe and used a steady rest would that allow me to safely spin the column so I can polish it up with some scotchbrite or other material?  Would the steady rest leave a groove on the tube?  I'm using my Clausing 4900 to do this.  Suggestions are appreciated here.  Or, should I just get it close by hand and try to polish it up on a small buffing wheel with compound?  Might take a while I would think.  I don't need it to be too nutso, but the shinier the better.
> Thanks!
> Bob



Try metal polish and a buffing pad.


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## Ray C (Oct 3, 2013)

Hmmm, my thinking must be wired all wrong...  The column on mine started life very shiny and I kept spraying a little WD40 every few weeks until it got a nice yellow waxy buildup.  Now I don't worry about it rusting in humid season.  If I rub a little spot with a rag, the shiny is still hiding underneath the wax.

Ray


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## itsme_Bernie (Oct 3, 2013)

If you don't care much about your lathe, or think you can cover it up well, a brass wire wheel acting like a toolpost grinder might brighten it up.

Sounds like a big lathe?  

Bernie


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## Buzsaw (Oct 4, 2013)

If you have access to a larger floor model Ridgid Pipe threader they work great for cleaning up a drill press column. With sandpaper, scothbrite etc.


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## pineyfolks (Oct 4, 2013)

Why do you need the steady for polishing? Do you have to remove the tailstock to get enough room?  I think if you make a plug for the end with a shoulder and center drill it you should be set.


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## Buickgsman (Oct 6, 2013)

I got the column on Thursday and cleaned it up and got it on the lathe.  I checked out Youtube and found a guy that used roller wheels screwed to a wood block and clamped to the lathe to support the column.  I threw a similar setup together and clamped it down and polished the column up.  There are some scratches and divots from objects that have hit it over the years, but it cleaned up nicely...  keeping in mind it is a drill press.  When I mounted it, I put the nicer side closer to the top so I could sleep at night.  I cleaned up the handwheel studs and the table and base.  All in all I am pretty pleased with the purchase.  I am going to order a new switch.  I'm contemplating one with a paddle for the off button but I haven't 100% decided.
Bob


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## stevecmo (Oct 6, 2013)

Bob,

That is a very nice find!  

And I must say, you are my kind of guy.  Nice job!

Steve


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## Buickgsman (Oct 6, 2013)

Shawn-  70 Skylark and a 69 Cutlass!  If I stopped playing with the machines, I could get some work done on the Cutlass!

Bob


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## rdhem2 (Oct 9, 2013)

Very nice job on the press.  Degrease the heck out of that table then fill the oh, ohs with bondo of all things.  Works down easily and is amazingly resistant to oil.  Still ugly but way smoother.  I have worked over all my free drill press vices that way.  They were ugly, hence, free!     :allgood:


You are also correct in replacing that residential wall switch with something a little more manly, I mean industrial looking. One last item.  You and I need to get together over some suds and discuss this anal problem we seem to share.  I can keep secrets!


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## Rbeckett (Oct 10, 2013)

I was thinking that once you got it nicely polished up you could drop it off at the local re-chrome and let him chrome plate it for you.  Forever shine and able to clean up with a green pad or a paper towel and solvent.  You would avoid the constant retreating or reworking that is inevitable unless you shop is heated and cooled with rock solid humidity control.  If it was me I would look into it because I love shiny things and loath corrosion in my unheated or climate controlled shop.  

Bob


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## Buickgsman (Oct 11, 2013)

I was able to find some time today to work on my switch.  I ordered it off of ebay for 36 bucks delivered which I thought was a great price.  I'm sure its made in china or Taiwan, but it seems like a nice switch for the money.  The depth the switch needed wasn't happening as far as the drill press was concerned so I had to make a spacer to get everything to fit properly.  So I was able to cut a spacer out of some 1/4" steel on the CNC plasma cutter at school.  I love that thing!  Anyway, a spacer and some longer stainless hardware later here we are.  The last pic is kind of an upskirt pic of the switch without the stop paddle in the way.  Works great and looks like it belongs on the press.  Up next is the motor mounts/isolators and belt.  

Bob


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