# Delta Milwauka Toolmaker Surface Grinder



## AR1911 (Aug 6, 2015)

I bought this yesterday, trying to find out a bit more about it. 
How can I determine the model and approximate age?

This being 2 colors leads me to think it was assembled from 2 machines, though I have not seen pics of any that are blue. The blue seems to be an original coat.

Seems to be in good shape - spindle is smooth and quiet. I'll play with it and decide if it's something I will use.


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## Inflight (Aug 6, 2015)

That grinder appears in the Delta Milwaukee Industrial Machine Tools, Catalog AB-52 Form AD-698 April 1952.


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## AR1911 (Aug 6, 2015)

Thanks, that is the same basic machine, but minus the Delta Milwaukee cast into the belt guard. 
Is there any way to determine the manufactured date from the serial number?


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## Inflight (Aug 6, 2015)

AR1911 said:


> Is there any way to determine the manufactured date from the serial number?



Serial Numbers: I looked at Vintage Machinery's machine registry page, but no body has posted the Toolmaker grinder.
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=1141&tab=5

I was also looking through the patents they submitted but have yet to locate this type of machine.

Ok, I just found that your machine (with the correct casting) is also listed in publications from September 1943, but no serial numbers available.  http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=5753


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## AR1911 (Aug 6, 2015)

I didn't think to check VintageMachinery.  Thanks for that info.
I checked the Yahoo group but they have no SN database.
I figured 1940s, sounds like that's in the ballpark


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## Ed ke6bnl (Aug 6, 2015)

nice looking machine a just picked a similar machine about 3 weeks ago. yours is cleaner and I do not have the original motor or housing around motor.  There is a lot of wear on mine from about 75 years of use and when I tighten the gibbs the travel gets tight on the ends but for the price I paid with some extra wheels and 5c milling cutter holder for sharpening it is a nice unit. oh mine has a stand that looks like it was made for the unit. made of cast iron.  It took me for ever to figure out how to get the arbor off with the wheel. must be rapped with a soft hammer with the internal center bolt sticking out. no internal threads like others and then tighten a bolt. Vintage machinery had the manual that they sell on ebay for $8-$20 dollars just getting ready to purchase when I found it.


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## AR1911 (Aug 6, 2015)

I got some extra wheels, including a couple of new ones. Haven't tried changing a wheel yet.
That stand under mine is one HD mother! It is 1/4 plate everywhere but the top, which is 1/2" steel, topped by a SS fitted cover. I bet it's as heavy as the machine. The seller almost backed out of including the stand.

If you join the Yahoo group they have all the manuals and documents you will want.


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## Ed ke6bnl (Aug 6, 2015)

thanks I did find the yahoo groups for the grinder and joined that is how I finally found the impart paper work I needed.


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## GLCarlson (Aug 6, 2015)

AR1911 said:


> I bought this yesterday, trying to find out a bit more about it.
> How can I determine the model and approximate age?
> 
> This being 2 colors leads me to think it was assembled from 2 machines, though I have not seen pics of any that are blue. The blue seems to be an original coat.
> ...



Pre 1960s, obviously. Base been repainted, probably. Original motor? (3 phase) If you really want it to be really useful, you need both a Univise and the swivel table and centers. Good luck with the latter, they're hard to find. Univise shows up on ebay, don't pay more than 150 (lots of insane sellers who want 3-400, just be patient, don't buy junk). Read the manuals- you need a half dozen wheels, all readily available.  If you've got a small shop, this is an ideal general purpose grinder: tools of any kind, small surface work. Fully kitted out, it'll do anything. Literally. Does require a bit of learning and skill.


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## Ed ke6bnl (Aug 6, 2015)

mine came with a 5C holder for sharpening milling tools. it will sit at two different angles look like 5 degrees and maybe 15 degrees anyone have instructions on it use. it is also indexable for 360 degrees around the collet


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## GLCarlson (Aug 7, 2015)

Ed ke6bnl said:


> mine came with a 5C holder for sharpening milling tools. it will sit at two different angles look like 5 degrees and maybe 15 degrees anyone have instructions on it use. it is also indexable for 360 degrees around the collet



Standard Enco (and many others) end sharpener. 24 indices, usually. Older design used an indent, newer ones are using a pin. Use: endmill in collet, set up one tooth, grind, index to next tooth, grind, etc. Setup:: you want the tooth to pass under the wheel as if you were cutting the wheel. Typically need several light cuts -don't go heavy, holder isn't that stable especially on the relief angle.  Once you've done the ends all around, flip the holder to the big angle and grind the relief the same way. Note that this only grinds the ends of teeth. I've never seen one come with instructions, by the way.


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## Ed ke6bnl (Aug 7, 2015)

thanks for your advice, I sorta gave it a try on an old useless end mill that was ground on the side for some special job I assume. the problem was it was a 4 flute that is more difficult  and I made a mess of it. I will try what you say on a two flute and see how it goes. probably have a well beat up on in my pile of end mills


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## GLCarlson (Aug 7, 2015)

Ed ke6bnl said:


> thanks for your advice, I sorta gave it a try on an old useless end mill that was ground on the side for some special job I assume. the problem was it was a 4 flute that is more difficult  and I made a mess of it. I will try what you say on a two flute and see how it goes. probably have a well beat up on in my pile of end mills



Best reason to keep old endmills! Getting lined up so you cut TO the center, without hitting the flute on the other side, is tricky. Easier with 2 flutes. Run your wheel over a diamond dresser first, get that edge on the wheel as crisp as possible. These jigs are handy for a dull edge; not really very useful for a good general sharpening. Also, don't have an angle setting for gashing.  Given the time to do a good manual recondition vs sending out & cost, I mostly send out when I have a cutter worth a full regrind. Which is not often. 

That said, these old Toolmakers are great small shop tools. With a little effort and some fixtures, they'll do almost anything, and especially the weird custom things. Delta got this one right. And they're fairly cheap and available as old American iron goes.


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## Ed ke6bnl (Aug 7, 2015)

I will be getting a diamond dresser soon. can you just buy the diamond and jus make up a quicky holder at about 5 degrees off vertical.  I traded some stuff for hundreds of mill bits there are some bad ones in the bunch and some that where made into boring tools etc.


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## GLCarlson (Aug 7, 2015)

Ed ke6bnl said:


> I will be getting a diamond dresser soon. can you just buy the diamond and jus make up a quicky holder at about 5 degrees off vertical.  I traded some stuff for hundreds of mill bits there are some bad ones in the bunch and some that where made into boring tools etc.



Yep. I got a cheap diamond (brazed into a 1/2" piece of bar stock, essentially), Whacked off a piece of 2" bar stock, drilled an angled hole in it, added a set screw, and still using it 30 years later. Still my go-to dresser. Remember that how fast you feed it across the wheel will have an effect on how the wheel cuts (fast = open grain/faster cut, slow more closed: start with fast- a few seconds to cross a 1/2 inch wheel). 

End mills make great boring bars. Depending on application, may not even need to grind the extra teeth off.


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