# Emco Compact 8 dimension request



## Steve-F (Jan 29, 2021)

Hello, I have acquired a Emco Compact 8 lathe bed and carriage. Can some one please give some measurements of the spindle housing and center line of the spindle from the bed?
 I'm going to give this project a shot at working again 

Thanks !!!

Steve


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## Steve-F (Feb 2, 2021)

Steve-F said:


> Hello, I have acquired a Emco Compact 8 lathe bed and carriage. Can some one please give some measurements of the spindle housing and center line of the spindle from the bed?
> I'm going to give this project a shot at working again
> 
> Thanks !!!
> ...


OK,I got the centerline number at 105 mm, anyone have the headstock length, width and height??


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## Steve-F (Feb 10, 2021)

Hi all, I have made a simple sketch and would be most grateful if someone with a Emco Compact 8 could please fill in a few numbers for me of the cross slide:<)
I would love to make it as close to the original that I can.


Thank you !!!


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## Steve-F (Feb 12, 2021)

Still looking......To the top please  


Thanks!!!


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## Fermic (Feb 12, 2021)

Here's my measurements, by the way the compound is in the middle of a circle, only a part of circle is milled away.


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## Steve-F (Feb 12, 2021)

*Fermic, you Rock!!!!! Thank you so much!! Awesome, now I can get to work  *


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## Steve-F (Feb 19, 2021)

Update! I have made the first part towards getting my cross slide made. A 416 SS degree wheel which the rest is all built on. Next, moving on to lower dovetail part that joins to it


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## Steve-F (Feb 23, 2021)

Making some headway!! Next is to knock off the extra stock and begin the dovetail cuts....oh, I was going to make the spindle but found one on E-Bay!! Saves me a bunch of work!


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## Steve-F (Mar 1, 2021)

Dovetails complete with gib lock, next I need to make a lead screw!


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## Steve-F (Mar 11, 2021)

Well, some more progress! Made 8mm left hand lead screw and half nut, bought the dial off E-pay( the wrong one , should been the smaller one,...oh well), made the handles, put it all together for a test fit and so far so good  I won't commit to the hole in the top yet until I either make or buy some quick detachable ones. Next, moving on to either the tail stock or drive train next:<)


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## RandyWilson (Mar 11, 2021)

Every time this thread pops back to the top I'm reminded of a find in my late father in laws stash; A new in Box Sparco Compact under dash 8-track player.  Still got K-Mart price sticker on it. But I don't think those dimensions would be of much use here.


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## Steve-F (Mar 17, 2021)

I'm working on the tail stock and thinking about the drive train at the same time, pics of the tail stock progress on Monday:<)
 I do have another basic dimension request if I could please....I'm looking for the diameter's of the belt driven clutch, the diameters of the 3 pulley steps in front of the clutch and the belt width.  (Pic of the area attached)
None of these were included when I bought it, but I did get a 1/2 HP motor and a forward -reverse switch!


Thank you!!!


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## TomKro (Mar 17, 2021)

Haven't been on the site in a while, just seeing this thread...

For the V belt diameters, I get approximately 1.421, 2.527 and 3.667 inches.  This is the diameter of the outer flat at each V.  Raising the caution flag for use of non-calibrated tools.   A second opinion might help.  

For the outer toothed belt sprocket, I get approximately 3.797 inches outside diameter.  Width of the flat belt engagement area is a little tough to gage, as there's a flat on the side of the v-belt, and what appears to be a direct transition to the chamfer of the belt tooth edge.  I'm getting overall tooth width of somewhere between 0.77 and 0.80 inch.  

I've had my Compact 8 in pieces for about a year as numerous life events keep getting priority.  I was reluctant to disassemble that clutch, as I had no idea of the proper lubrication for re-assembly.  If you happen to figure it out, please share.  

TomKro


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## Steve-F (Mar 17, 2021)

Thank you TomKro!!! Excellent information!! Way close enough for me   Awesome!!!

Cheers!!! I'd be happy to share about the clutch but it  looks like I won't have one if I make this. I would think being a clutch that it would not be much, short of a light grease?


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## TomKro (Mar 17, 2021)

Glad I could help.  Another member provided guidance on cleaning up the clutch.  You are correct, light grease.  

BTW, I forgot to gage the width of each pulley step.  The middle step was easy to measure, it came out to about 0.265 inch wide, which includes the v-groove and two flats.


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## Steve-F (Mar 17, 2021)

Thank you again!!!


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## Steve-F (Mar 18, 2021)

Embarrassed to ask but one more dimension please:<) The diameter of the toothed driving cog on the motor,  I need that to calculate the rest of the RPM's:<)


Pica added of the drive cog....

THANK YOU!!!!


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## TomKro (Mar 18, 2021)

Looks like 18 tooth, with OD of teeth at about 1.120 inch.  

Sort of interesting that the v-belt grooves on the other side of that part do not appear to be centered on each shoulder.  Not sure why, as I took it apart ages ago.  I can send a pic later today if you need one.  That sure is one complex little part.  

If you're cutting your own, best to leave an inch or so on one end to set into the triple v-groove section on the far side.  

TomKro


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## Steve-F (Mar 18, 2021)

Got the Tailstock base with a cam-lock finished, moving on the upstairs part of it next!


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## Steve-F (Mar 18, 2021)

TomKro said:


> Looks like 18 tooth, with OD of teeth at about 1.120 inch.
> 
> Sort of interesting that the v-belt grooves on the other side of that part do not appear to be centered on each shoulder.  Not sure why, as I took it apart ages ago.  I can send a pic later today if you need one.  That sure is one complex little part.
> 
> ...


Thank you very much again TomKro! You are a lifesaver!! I may use those values and make it a V-Belt , still on the fence with that one  At least with your numbers I can begin calculating speeds as I think the stock motor was a 1325 RPM and I have a 1725 RPM and would really like to be able to hit 100 RPM should I need it!
Yes, leaving lots of stock for the other 3 pulleys for sure! I have sitting right here next to me:<)

Many Thanks!!!!!!


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## TomKro (Mar 18, 2021)

Wow, you're making parts faster than I can measure them.   Nice work.  

FYI, my motor indicates 1700 RPM.  

TomKro


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## Steve-F (Mar 18, 2021)

Thank you :<)   Excellent to know that about the RPM  too!


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## Fermic (Mar 18, 2021)

Here my motor label


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## TomKro (Mar 18, 2021)

Fermic, is that an inverter duty motor?  
The one I have has a little bit more HP, but Class B insulation.  

TomKro


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## Fermic (Mar 18, 2021)

Both are Permanent Split Capacitor motor : PSC Motor details

Mine is Class F, which is more durable for my motor.


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## Steve-F (Mar 18, 2021)

Thanks Fermic!! I guess they all over map on RPM's.


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## Steve-F (Mar 22, 2021)

Made some more progress. Found an old beat up tailstock from a 4th axis unit we mothballed and made some modifications! I need to tram both the headstock and the tailstock, I left room for that to do at another time, it's really close right now:<)


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## Steve-F (Mar 24, 2021)

Good morning Gentlemen:<) Yes, I have another dimension request and even within 1/8 or so is just fine! I promise to entertain you with more pics as this project proceeds and it is moving along a lot better than I expected thanks to your help!! Attached is the drawing as I attempt to make the pulley support plate and cover:<)

THANK YOU


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## TomKro (Mar 24, 2021)

Here's my best shot for the dimensions.   Hopefully I didn't mess up, but I advise you to lay out the dimensions on a sheet of cardboard and double check against the headstock as a sanity check before cutting metal.  

Also be advised that the position of the intersection of the lower radius on the steel plate is really rough.  I had no good way to check it.  

Here's a link you may find helpful:





						Emco COMPACT 8 lathe parts | Sears PartsDirect
					

Emco COMPACT 8 lathe parts - manufacturer-approved parts for a proper fit every time! We also have installation guides, diagrams and manuals to help you along the way!




					www.searspartsdirect.com
				



The site has exploded views of various assemblies, which may be helpful.  

You sure are moving along quick.  Keep up the good work.  

TomKro


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## Steve-F (Mar 25, 2021)

Thank you TomKro!!!!!! Can't tell you much I appreciate this!! And thanks for the link too:<) The lower radius will be negotiable as I have a different diameter motor any ways....adapt,adapt

Cheers!


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## Steve-F (Mar 25, 2021)

OK, I had to do a little tweaking because I didn't have the original motor and this one is a larger diameter. Also had to move the notched pulley centerline a little as well, hoping that won't be an issue later I just happen to have some .375 aluminum plate so off to make some chips!


Thanks again for all the measurements!!!


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## TomKro (Mar 25, 2021)

Steve, 

  Glad I could help.  I sure miss the days when I worked with shop personnel and could grab a chunk of metal and have something made quickly.  

  You may be well into cutting plate by now, but that big old motor might interfere with the geometry of the pivot point for the belt tensioner and the lever which cams into the tensioner.  If the size of the motor is preventing you from maintaining the position of the two belt tensioner pivot points with respect to the spindle, you may want to consider padding up the bed to give you more space to lower the motor.  

  I didn't think of grabbing the other hole locations, partly because the plate still has all the pieces attached, and partly because there's quite a few dimensions to get the same tensioning geometry.  Also, it wasn't clear if you're trying to fabricate all those features.  If you plan on trying to duplicate those functions, I can try to capture the critical dimensions, but probably not at the speed you cut metal.   Let me know if you want to go that route.  

TomKro


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## Fermic (Mar 25, 2021)

Usually, that's where you could make improvements for a better belt system like a newer EMCO lathe of similar size I have seen, also with a VFD setup or servo motor ( I plan to put 2.6 kW servo in mine ) giving you the ability to cut alu without any long strings with carbide tooling or more.


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## Steve-F (Mar 25, 2021)

Thanks Tom and Fermic! Yes, making chips as I write this, and I had the same concern about the geometry. I will be making everything there that moves as close to "function" as was intended, and raising the lathe up  is an excellent option, as I could raise it around 2" or so and still be at a good height:<)  I drew a circle on the path of the tensioner with relation to the spindle and "I think" I will be good.....if  not, I have more plate:<) Plus, that circle representing the clutch is 1.5" bigger than the measurement you gave  me earlier....just in case


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## Steve-F (Mar 25, 2021)

OK, now I have something to stare at and figure out what's next


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## Steve-F (Mar 25, 2021)

OK, Rev-2:<); I didn't like how little meat I left to attach too, got to carried away with 2-D vs 3-D views, and to better reflect Tom's numbers, plus,   there is plenty of clearance still between the plate and the motor. I like it a lot better!


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## Steve-F (Mar 25, 2021)

Now that I have some real estate to work with,  I'm going through some numbers with the pulley diameters. I must be missing something though. If the drive pulley ( 18 tooth @ 1.12 dia.) is driving the large toothed clutch pulley ( ? teeth x 3.8" dia) that comes to about 500 rpm.  Now that 500 rpm  is now driving a 1.421" dia. to a 5.275" dia. spindle pulley, I get 147 rpm. This is the BC pulleys in number 1 groove according to the face plate,( borrowed pic, I don't have the plate) and it says it should be @ 100 rpm.Where did I go wrong? My low rpm goal is the 100.

Thanks!!!


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## mikey (Mar 25, 2021)

I have nothing of value to add to the discussion but I wanted to say that this whole thread is what HM is about. You guys are providing much needed help in a very open, generous manner to a brother in need and it is really nice to see. This kind of generosity encourages our other new members to feel free to ask for help, which tends to go against the grain for a lot of guys. So, good job, everyone! Nelson would be proud of you guys.


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## TomKro (Mar 25, 2021)

Mikey - Back when I was trying to patch up my Logan 200 I received plenty of assistance and encouragement.  It's what makes this forum so nice.  

Steve - my machine runs a little faster (or it should, once I put it back together).  The nameplate indicates a speed range from 120 thru 2000 RPM using a 1700 RPM motor.  I count 60 teeth on the driven clutch, so driver/driven is 0.3.  Driver/driven came to about 0.269 using the ballpark sheave ODs.  That resulted in a final calculated RPM of about 137.  Still too fast.  I'm not familiar with the particular style of small V-belt, but I gaged it at about 0.135 total depth.  As a ballpark, I deducted the total belt depth from the two pulley diameters (1/2 each side?) which left me with driver/driven at about 0.25, resulting in 127.5 RPM, which is still a bit higher than the nameplate, but at least closer.  

Maybe someone on the forum has some technical guidance on that small v-belt, and can give you an idea of how much smaller you can cut the smallest driver pulley to get where you want to be.  

BTW, nice job on the plate.  

TomKro


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## TomKro (Mar 25, 2021)

Steve - A bigger flat/cogged belt pulley on the clutch would do the trick, if you haven't cut that yet.


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## Steve-F (Mar 25, 2021)

Good to hear Tom, I thought I was losing my marbles on the calculations:<) Very close numbers to what I was getting too! That is why I left possible room for up to a 5.25" dia. primary driving pulley and leaning towards the V-belt idea:<) Thank for the compliment and more thanks for your measurement efforts my good man Too fast too post , yes that would a great idea too!!! Not cut yet either:<)


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## Fermic (Mar 25, 2021)

I am leaving a rebuild guide pdf for you and others as well. They contain nice wealth of info for 9x20 ( also applies to Emco as well ). Someday, if there's demand I'll go create a thread containing many PDF documents related to 9x and 8x lathes.

Something important to note, the headstock only sits on shims and is above by 1 mm off of V-ways otherwise you cannot adjust the headstock.


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## Steve-F (Mar 25, 2021)

Awesome!! Thanks Fermic!


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## Steve-F (Mar 29, 2021)

All right, been busy at the computer in my off time and finally have settled on the 2 drive pulleys at 1:4 ratio, 20 teeth and 80 teeth , 1.25 dia x 5.250 dia. which should give me 98-1720 rpm range! The belt is on order. Lots to do now, it may take a while, but I'm on it!


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## Fermic (Mar 29, 2021)

Nice pulleys but toothed pulleys are a pain in my ass to get aligned in my opinion and my lathe is out of service while I try fix it.


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## Steve-F (Mar 29, 2021)

Thanks Fermic, I almost went with Micro-groove ribbed V-belts but I don't want any chance of slipping. Besides, I have a 5-Axis CNC at my disposal:<) Going to give it a whirl !


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## TomKro (Mar 29, 2021)

Steve: 

  It looks like you're adding some material to the edges of the pulley to guide the belt.  Normally a good idea, but be aware that the idler arm moves below that pulley and it may limit your available space.  

  See attached image.  The rectangular idler arm is about 0.238 thick by 0.788 wide (+/-).  The washer below the idler arm providing clearance from the plate is about 0.077 thick.  

 My pulley has only about 0.375 clearance from the back edge of the pulley to the adjacent support plate.  The pulley itself appears to be mounted on 3/4 inch hex bar with turned sections to locate the shaft against the plate and provide the required pulley offset.    

 I understand you can adjust your pulley offsets to your desired setup, but you eventually have to get back to your driven spindle pulley.  I thought you were using a thicker mounting plate.  Probably best to look at those pulleys from a front or top view to see where you end up on the spindle.  

  Glad you're having fun cutting metal.  No fun for me, I'm heading out to cut the grass.    

TomKro


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## Steve-F (Mar 29, 2021)

Awesome pic there,Thanks! I see your point Tom, and the shields are an afterthought and negotiable also. I guess as long it's straight, where is it going to go:<) I will leave that decision for after the mock up as you suggest!   Edit....looks like I'm .325 as it stands now and I think I can shave another .05 with modifications:<) Excellent info!!


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## TomKro (Mar 29, 2021)

Slight changes to the counterbore depth on the last pulley can also give you some position flexibility, so you may be able to keep your belt guides after all.  

Since my machine is still in pieces, here's a few more pics that might help with those last few parts:





The swing arm for the belt tensioning lever has a pin to pin centerline distance of about 2-3/8 inch.  The idler itself is about 1.82 OD, 1.020 long.  Note that it is designed to float quite a bit along the pin.   Both sides of the idler are counterbored a little less than an 1/8 inch deep to allow it to float with the various belt positions.  





The cam that pushes on the idler arm is about 0.350 OD, 11/32 long.  Looks like it rides on a 1/4 inch pin.  The setscrew locks the handle screwed thru the hub on the other side.  The 1/4 inch pin centerline is about a 1/2 inch off the setscrew centerline.  





I thought this snap ring and wave spring was pretty slick.  Might be hard to find that particular spring and snap ring, but you can probably make an inverted cup/cap to serve the same purpose.  

Hope the pics help.  

TomKro


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## Steve-F (Mar 29, 2021)

MORE AWESOME!! I couldn't save these pics fast enough!!! I was waffling about asking you for a few more pics, but you must have felt my vibes:<):<) Really helpful! What I did notice that on my exploded view that I found on line that I don't see that 90 degree , thick adjusting bracket anywhere? Does that adjust the tension from the motor to the drive pulley? 

CHEERS!!


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## TomKro (Mar 29, 2021)

I found a pic way back from when I picked up this little thing.  I've had this hardware sitting around way too long.  I never did figure out what that brown powder was.  

It appears that the long flat idler arm and cam is set up to allow belt v-belt tensioning when driving the spindle either from the intermediate clutch/cogged wheel (as shown) or when driven directly by the motor.   That appears to make sense looking at the belt position graphic on the headstock.  That's my guess, as I haven't had it running.   

Flat belt tension appears to be adjusted only by motor position up or down the side of the bed.  Motor mounts are slotted.   

When I get a chance, I'll measure the centerline position of the idler arm mount hole and the cam/handle hole on the plate.  I haven't had a chance to look over the on-line schematics to see if I can find the idler arm.  

TomKro


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## TomKro (Mar 29, 2021)

If you look on the "parts direct" link, there is a horizontal scroll bar to move thru different images.   Look for "Lever Assembly".


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## Steve-F (Mar 30, 2021)

Thanks Tom!!


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## TomKro (Mar 30, 2021)

Steve, 

  I grabbed a few more pertinent dimensions, but haven't had time to sketch anything up.  Hopefully these will help with your idler mechanism layout.  

  The centerline of the pivot point for the idler arm is approximately 1-5/8 inch right, and 9/16 inch down from the cogged pulley center point.  I get a plate hole of about 0.600 inches.  The boss on the pivot arm riding in this hole is about 0.592 inches.

  The centerline for the "plug" of the cam lever is approximately 3.0 inches right, and 3/16 inch down from the cogged pulley center point.  The hole in the plate for the "plug" is about 1.456 ID.  The diameter of the plug surface riding in this hole is about 1.455 inch.  Note that the wave spring looks to be 0.020 inch thick brass, 5 waves, with an ID of 1.290 inch and OD of about 1.795 inch.  

  You may have to make changes to the idler arm geometry to accommodate changes in your cogged pulley dimensions, but at least you can layout the original approximate geometry as a starting point and adjust from there.  

TomKro


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## Steve-F (Mar 30, 2021)

Fantastically helpful Tom!! Thank you so much!!! I'm so buying you some beers if ever get to your neighborhood


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## TomKro (Mar 30, 2021)

Glad to help.  The closest I usually get to California is when we visit our son in Seattle, but I do appreciate the offer.  If you're ever in Aberdeen Maryland, stop by for a sip of Bourbon.  

As to changes in geometry, I keep forgetting that the idler impacts mainly the small v-belt sheaves.  I think your biggest changes were the cogged belt dimensions, so hopefully you don't have to change too much from the original layout.  Probably just have to watch the position of the inside edge of the idler and your flat belt.  

I'm off to round one of the COVID shot.  My wife and I are not 65 yet, but we joke that we're a walking list of "co-morbidites", so we were able to get on the schedule here in Maryland.  

Happy chip making.

TomKro


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## Steve-F (Mar 30, 2021)

I was born on your coastline , but near Boston, left when I was 3, and have only been back there once about 12 years ago, then when I got home I wasn't feeling quite right , long story short, I was diagnosed with Leukemia (AML). Here I am now at 65 thanks to some very good Doc's, and just got my first shot 2 weeks ago, the last one on the 7th:<) Yes sir, we are making chips!! I thank you again and I believe you are right about watching that position.  A little "vertical lathe" roughing....baby steps:<)


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## Steve-F (Mar 31, 2021)

Groovy!! Going to be a spell for the slots, my machine is occupied with a real job:<)


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## pmzielinski (Apr 12, 2021)

@Steve-F your work is awesome. Did you happen to draw/model up the parts your're making in CAD? If you did it would be awesome if you could make them available for download. I may have to follow in your footsteps. No Compound and no tail stock on mine, I've been watching ebay for a while. Just found this site today. not sure how I didn't find it before.


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## Steve-F (Apr 12, 2021)

Thank you  Pmzielinski!  I took the day off , but let me get back to you tomorrow when I am at work  and have access to the files there . Wonderful folks here that have  helped me in a huge way and I would happy to share what I have!


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## Steve-F (Apr 13, 2021)

Forgot to ask, what type of file format. parasolid (.XT) or .IGS....just got slammed at work so give me a bit to get it together


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## TomKro (Apr 13, 2021)

I was checking the thread for progress.  I'm living vicariously as my wife is "encouraging" progress on spring cleanup and kitchen rehab plans.

Here's another pic of the idler arm and associated parts, though I included it earlier. 

Note that there is a little oiler at the end of the idler pulley shaft near the spring clip slot.  Grizzly sells the oilers for their 9x, but they're bigger than the original Emco style.  

The washer at the end of the spring fits into the slot to keep tension on the idler arm.  The washer is about 1.453 inch OD, 1.037 ID, 0.045 thick.  
The spring is pretty heavy.  The wire itself is just over 0.10 inch diameter, coiled to about a 0.60" diameter, and about 6 inches long.  





TomKro


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## Steve-F (Apr 13, 2021)

Thank you Tom!!  Much appreciated! I have the motor now mounted and the lathe bed blocked up 1.75" to get some more room and a better working height. Pics, later....took 1 day off and my wife got her first covid shot. The motor pulley and belt drive are done and mounted too. The idler pulley is cut but not the cogged tooth yet, as my machine is married to another job for a while:<(


Thanks!!!


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## pmzielinski (Apr 13, 2021)

Steve-F said:


> Forgot to ask, what type of file format. parasolid (.XT) or .IGS....just got slammed at work so give me a bit to get it together


I have access to Solidworks and Autocad. If what you did was in either of those native files are great, otherwise parasolid are probably good. Really anything is appreciated. 

Thank you!


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## Steve-F (Apr 13, 2021)

Sure:<) I have Unigraphics NX10 , parasolids it is


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## Steve-F (Apr 13, 2021)

PM me your email, it won't attach here.


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## Aaron_W (Apr 26, 2021)

I thought this might be of interest to you, a Compact 8 in "good condition" for $450 in Kingman, AZ. 

Based on the photos I don't know about it being good condition, but looks fairly complete and probably at least good for parts. Thought might solve some of your parts issues. If it is better than the photos make it look then even better. Bit of a drive but might be worthwhile.

Not my ad, just ran across it browsing CL and remembered seeing this thread.

https://mohave.craigslist.org/tls/d/kingman-hobby-metal-lathe/7310536378.html?lang=en&cc=gb


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## Steve-F (Apr 27, 2021)

Thanks Aaron


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## Steve-F (Apr 27, 2021)

Latest up-date......while I'm still working on the idler pulley, (more on that later  ) I had some time to make a QDTP and 8 tool holders. 4 of them for cutting tools, 2 for a boring bar and/or a chuck, 1 part-off tool and still working on the knurl tool. Credit to Neil Wyatt for his handy notes he made available!


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## Steve-F (May 5, 2021)

So far I have finally mounted the idler pulley and went with a 6" dia. with a J-section, 8 ribbed X .75" serpentine belt with an adjuster in the rear for tension rather than fight the motor mounts every time I want to tighten it. It's a long story coming from the first plan of a toothed drive, it just wasn't panning out, so went with this arrangement  On the plus side I should hit the low 90's in RPM's with the 6" pulley


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## TomKro (May 5, 2021)

Looking real nice.  The serpentine belt is a good idea.  

Unclear to me how the tensioner works.  Can you clarify?


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## Steve-F (May 5, 2021)

Thanks Tom! Yes, the shaft comes through the block with a shoulder touching on the front plate with a 1/2" X 1/2" spud protruding. Then a female "cup" over that with the bolt pulling the 2  together. I will try to take some pics of it disassembled:<)


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## TomKro (May 5, 2021)

So, sliding the entire pulley up and down...  

Looks nice and sturdy.


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## Steve-F (May 5, 2021)

Thanks and yes, up and down, but just realized I need to make it about .2" longer as they only offer 1' increments, not .5" in order for me to get a whole size belt to work....still set up so not  problem:<)


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## Steve-F (May 12, 2021)

Just a up date of a sort, ordered the belts and really need them in place to judge the tensioner better, CAD models don't tell the whole story:<) Meanwhile, I'm trying to get the power and drum switch put together so I can prove rotation while I wait for the back ordered belts:<(


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## Steve-F (May 20, 2021)

Still waiting for the belts to arrive , but I have power now and reverse:<) Had some time so I made a follow rest and a steady rest, still need to make the lower clamp next and then move on to the gear holding bar parts that Tom supplied the nice drawings for


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## Steve-F (Jun 1, 2021)

Well, epic day for me....It runs!! The belt tensioner was a challenge because of the location of the motor.Tried to make the spring thing work, but the arc needed to accommodate both belts, (yes, 2 different center to centers lengths), was huge and the spring pressure was off the map 1 direction and not enough the the other, soooo , I made linear tensioner, which until something better comes along, it works just fine:<) I have the gear support bar (Thanks Tom!) made and working on the rest of the parts next.


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## mikey (Jun 1, 2021)

Nice work!


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## Steve-F (Jun 1, 2021)

Thank you Sir!


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## Okidoki (Aug 1, 2021)

Steve-F said:


> Still waiting for the belts to arrive , but I have power now and reverse:<) Had some time so I made a follow rest and a steady rest, still need to make the lower clamp next and then move on to the gear holding bar parts that Tom supplied the nice drawings for


Hello Steve, that's quite an impressive project you're doing there with such an extensive rebuild! When I took over my Emco Compact 8, it was of course missing several parts, among which the follower rest. I've been meaning to make one myself, as you did yourself. Would it be possible to share Tom's drawings you're referring to in your post? That would be most helpful. Greetings, Vincent.


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## Steve-F (Aug 1, 2021)

Thank you! Sure can! His drawings are in the previous posts and if you mean the follow rest that is a CAD file which I have at work. Can you use that?


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## Okidoki (Aug 1, 2021)

Hi Steve, I can certainly use a CAD file! I usually work in Inventor (Autodesk), and it's capable of importing a range of file types. Should I specify which file type is most useful in this case? Otherwise I can check if the type you've got availiable is compatible with Inventor. Thanks for your effort!


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## Steve-F (Aug 1, 2021)

Hello Vincent.

 Sure I can export files as a  IGS or a XT (para solid) if either one is better for you . Just let me know:<) Are you just after the follow rest?

Cheers


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## Okidoki (Aug 1, 2021)

Hi Steve,

I'll have a look tomorrow at work what format will work best, thanks for thinking along  Right now my focus is on the follower rest. The steady rest was included in the purchase, luckily. If you have  detailed CAD building plans that would be perfect!

Thanks again!
Vincent


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## Okidoki (Aug 2, 2021)

Hi Steve, it seems Inventor will accept both IGS and XT. I'm not sure which is the better, or what the possibilities may be of data loss due to conversion. Would it be possible for you to export the file in both formats to be on the safe side? That would also give me an oppertunity to see how these different formats of the same file turn out in Inventor. Thanks again!

Vincent


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## Steve-F (Aug 2, 2021)

Hello Vincent, can you PM me your e-mail address as they don't attach well on this site and I will send you both:<)

I will PM you my email so you have that to send too.


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## Okidoki (Aug 2, 2021)

Thanks Steve, I'll send you me email-address in response


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## Steve-F (Aug 2, 2021)

Got it! They are on the way!!


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## Okidoki (Aug 2, 2021)

Thanks! Well received


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## wachuko (Sep 24, 2021)

I had not seen your thread... You are amazing.  And the folks that have taken the time to measure and share dimensions, wow!  What a great feeling reading through this thread. 

So you pretty much built a lathe!! And from hand written drawings share by other forum members... This is impressive in so many ways.

And here I was giving sh** on the broken knob, hahahahahahaha, I am so sorry for that.  You all ROCK!!

As for me?


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## Steve-F (Sep 24, 2021)

wachuko said:


> I had not seen your thread... You are amazing.  And the folks that have taken the time to measure and share dimensions, wow!  What a great feeling reading through this thread.
> 
> So you pretty much built a lathe!! And from hand written drawings share by other forum members... This is impressive in so many ways.
> 
> ...


Thank you Kind Sir:<):<) I appreciate that very much!!


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## rb67mustang (Oct 18, 2021)

Steve-F said:


> Latest up-date......while I'm still working on the idler pulley, (more on that later  ) I had some time to make a QDTP and 8 tool holders. 4 of them for cutting tools, 2 for a boring bar and/or a chuck, 1 part-off tool and still working on the knurl tool. Credit to Neil Wyatt for his handy notes he made available!


You're doing a great job on this lathe and I love the Aloris Type tool post you made.


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## Okidoki (Nov 11, 2021)

Steve-F said:


> Got it! They are on the way!!


Hi Steve,

Little update on the follower-rest: I made some dimensional adjustments to the 3D-model, which I’m guessing is due to building your own version of the Emco C8.

I made the follower-rest from a slab of mild steel that was lying around. I started out with a basic outline and used an angle grinder to cut it out. Then milled the surfaces to dimensions. I wasn't too critical here, since the only real important dimension of this part is where the 'fingers' of the follower rest meet, the centerline between chuck and centre.

First, I thought I’d do a fancy type of follower rest like the commercial produce with the arched body and mesh fingers, but I don’t have the CNC capability to neatly mill those radii. Then I settled for a straight type version with the mesh fingers, but decided to lose those details (mesh, etc), since I'll probably need this tool only a handful of times. 

This project is relatively simply to the work you've been doing on your own lathe and the steady and follower rest you've made (which include the mesh parts). However, I wanted to share this with you and the rest because what I like about this design is that it is about as no-nonsense as it gets for a follower rest. Perhaps in this way the design options for making a follower-rest presented in this thread can help others in making one of their own based on prospected machining needs.

Thanks again for sharing your 3D-models and good luck with your project!











	

		
			
		

		
	
 Here’s some pics.


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## Steve-F (Nov 11, 2021)

Love it! Thanks for the update, I was wondering how it worked out for you:<)


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## rb67mustang (Nov 16, 2021)

Okidoki said:


> Hi Steve,
> 
> Little update on the follower-rest: I made some dimensional adjustments to the 3D-model, which I’m guessing is due to building your own version of the Emco C8.
> 
> ...


That's a nice no nonsense follow rest you made. I've seen the screws with bronze tips or roller bearings, but you're correct, it's not needed very often, but when you need it, it helps get the Job Done.


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## Steve-F (Nov 30, 2021)

Hello all, I have another question if I may  those of you that have the 30 tooth and the 25 tooth drive gears, could you please measure the OD of both before I go down the wrong path:<)


Thanks!!


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## wachuko (Nov 30, 2021)

Where is that located and do I have one in my Chinese lathe that I can measure to help you?

Or is this specific to your Emco model?


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## Steve-F (Nov 30, 2021)

Thanks, worth a try! It's in the stack in the pic, second from the bottom inside and the forth one up outside( that one is a 60T, but same location). Not sure if yours is put together that way but it's more about the diameter differences from 30T to 25T , I have a clearance issue 


Edited to add that I have the 30T and it has a 1.257" dia. and a 1.09" minor so looking see if the 25T major is less than 1.09"


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## wachuko (Nov 30, 2021)

Looks like my setup is different... sorry...


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## Steve-F (Nov 30, 2021)

Thanks for trying Jaime! Actually it doesn't look that far off in concept, yours still has a banjo bar too:<) Man ,I sure wished I had a gear box like that!!!


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## Okidoki (Nov 30, 2021)

The Compact 8 gears are module 1: the pitch circle diameter being equal to the number of gear teeth. Missing some of the gears on my lathe, I reproduced them from POM-C/Delrin/Ertacetal. It's a great material that cuts like butter and won't wear down your tools. Often used for gears, they also run a lot quieter than metal ones and it's a relatively cheap material. 

A standard, complete set of gears (auto-feed and thread cutting) for the C8 contains: bus(2*)/z20/z25/z30/z35/z40/z50/z55/z60/z65/z70/z75/z80(3*). Gears are 8mm thick with a center hole of 14mm. The keyway width is 4mm by 1.5mm deep. When cutting gears, a rule of thumb to indicate the outer diameter of the gear 'blanc' you're going to cut, is to take the number of gear teeth (z) + (2*module). So for a gear of z80 that would mean starting out with a blanc with an outer diameter of 80 + (2*1) = 82mm. Depth of cut is measured by 2,25mm * module. Hope this helps.


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## Steve-F (Nov 30, 2021)

Thank You Okidiki! Excellent information!!


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## TomKro (Nov 30, 2021)

I just checked what I have downstairs, and I get the same 1.257 inch outer diameter for the 30 tooth gear. 

For the 25 tooth gear, I get 1.056/1.057 inch with calipers in the middle of the gear face, and 1.060 inch with mics. There's clearly some sort of burr on one face of that gear.  Note that this measurement is with 2 teeth against one anvil, and one tooth against the other.  I believe this number would then be smaller than the actual outer diameter. 

I'd stick with Okidoki's numbers for the blank sizes.  As you may have guessed, I'm unaware of how to measure the true OD for the odd tooth gear.

TomKro


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## Steve-F (Dec 1, 2021)

Thank you Tom!!!  That's just what I wanted to hear to confirm the clearance needed! Between yours and Okidiki's info, .... time to get busy  Thank you both again!!


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## Steve-F (Dec 1, 2021)

Okidiki, by any chance do you have the CAD files for those gears or did you use a dividing head to cut them?

 Edited to add if you did use a dividing head can you point me to the tool you used please:<)

Thanks!


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## TomKro (Dec 1, 2021)

Steve,

Not sure if this came up before, but the key on the keyed bushings for the Emco are smaller than the Grizzly style bushing (I think you had two different threads on Emco dimensions?  Or maybe I haven't had enough coffee this AM... ). 

I purchased a few of the Grizzly bushings a while back.  It looks like their bushing have a key width of about 0.191 inches.  The grizzly one piece keyed bushing has the key sitting about 0.072 inches above the bushing OD.  It looks like the Grizzly keyed bushings can be trimmed down to Emco dimensions.  They're only $2.25 a piece, so hard to pass up.  

TomKro


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## Steve-F (Dec 1, 2021)

Yes Tom, you are correct... I discovered that as well! I made some from the drawings you supplied but changed the key to the Grizzly version because I had a broach that size already. I have the power feed working now but only the .008 per rev option , which is faster than I would like, great for roughing, but now I want to get it to the .004 per rev for finish cutting. On a side note, I modified a Bridgeport quill feed wheel/handle, ( about 6" dia.) with a crank knob, mounted to the tail end of the lead screw, and all I do is engage the power feed lever and crank it which gives amazing control and finish results!

Steve


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## Okidoki (Dec 1, 2021)

Steve-F said:


> Okidiki, by any chance do you have the CAD files for those gears or did you use a dividing head to cut them?
> 
> Edited to add if you did use a dividing head can you point me to the tool you used please:<)
> 
> Thanks!


Hello Steve,

I don't have any CAD files of these gears, only some dimensions like in the previous message. I don't own a cnc-mill in which CAD-files may be useful. Perhaps you can use the spur gear generator in Inventor's assembly environment to produce some dxf files. I made my gears using a rotary table combined with a set of involute cutters, but I've also seen people making gears using a single point HSS bit fixed into a boring head. That last method can be an inexpensive method since you don't need an arbor for holding involute cutters, the cutter set, etc, but it's challenging to cut an accurate tooth profile on the HSS bit and also the single point cutting will cause more force on the work piece (with POM it shouldn't make much difference, but with metals the noise production will be significant). Involute cutter sets don't have to be really expensive though. I've seen some sets for approx. $65, but you can also buy cutters separately. Hope this helps and keep us posted on your progress


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## Steve-F (Dec 1, 2021)

Thanks for your reply Okidiki! I just happened to do as you suggested and joined the Engineers Edge web site and just that! I just downloaded all the files for the full set using spur gear generator they have, now I have just cut them. Thanks again so much, very helpful !!


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## leeuwis88 (Dec 29, 2021)

Hey steve,

I really like this topic! if needed any other dimensions, feel free to ask me aswell. 
Do you have any more info about your self made tailstock base? Really like the quick lock idea!


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## Steve-F (Dec 29, 2021)

Thanks leeuwis88:<) The tailstock lock I robbed from a Fadal  4-axis tail stock and modified it to work and the tailstock itself, again, robbed and modified, probably cut of 15 pounds of steel to get it to function!  
​


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