# A degree wheel for the Atlas/Craftsman 6X18



## SG51Buss (Nov 4, 2014)

I plan to post a series of mods for the Atlas/Craftsman 6x18.  Since they're machine specific, I guess they should go into this forum, instead of the 'projects' forum???

This little degree wheel fits on the spindle flange, behind the chuck.
And, just like the feedscrew dials, it gets frequent use.




It's a simple disc of aluminum, 1/4" thick where it rides on the spindle flange, then flares around the headstock casting to a more visible 0.350" wide outer face.
The ID is slightly less than 1-3/8", because I skimmed the spindle flange OD to get a smooth light drag fit.  Your flange diameter may be a bit larger, so adjust the ID dim to fit.  You may need to skim your flange as I did.

The wheel needs some sort of grub screw, I used a small 4-40 brass screw with a larger head.




The wheel is marked for the full 360° by glueing a 0.400" wide strip of 7.200" long paper, pre-printed with the degree markings.




I made this back in the '90s, when inkjet printers had coarser dot densities.  I wanted crisp/clear marking lines, and to achieve that I needed to select a printing size that would ensure that the inkjet dots aligned with the desired marking lines.  A circumference of 7.200" would make each degree mark fall on a 0.020" dimension, which worked great for my 300 DPI (Dots-Per-Inch) inkjet printer.  Divided by Pi, this makes the OD of the degree wheel 2.292".  The printer paper is about 0.004" thick, and I found thru experimentation that an OD of 2.290" allowed the paper strip to perfectly wrap around the circumference.


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## SG51Buss (Nov 4, 2014)

The paper strip is purposely wider than the wheel.  It's carefully cut along the border, then glued to the wheel with the chuck side of the wheel down on a flat surface, to guide the paper strip so that the right edge is aligned.  This ensures that the numbers will remain visible and be properly positioned.  

I aligned the 0° part of the paper strip over the grub screw hole.  The paper has to be carved away from the hole, and it looks like a zero, easy to find.

After the glue has set, the excess paper is trimmed with an Xacto knife, through the degree marking lines, along the wheel edge.  Then a couple coats of chemical resistant clear is painted over it.

When done, it should look like this (but much cleaner).




Ignore the two extra holes.  This was made from a piece of scrap...


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## SG51Buss (Nov 4, 2014)

The pointer is a piece of sheet brass.  Cut, bent, and epoxied to the headstock.
This takes a bit of creative finagling, to get a close and easy to read fit.
This one was painted with the headstock.  Perhaps black would have been a better color.


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## SG51Buss (Nov 4, 2014)

The finished degree wheel is slid onto the spindle flange, but left loose.  Then the chuck is installed, the degree wheel pressed against the backside of the chuck, and snugged down.  Keeping the degree wheel against the backside of the chuck ensures that it'll run true and not drag against the pointer.




That's it.  Ready to go.
Now, if the boyz at Tallgrass tools want to make some of these, by all means please do so.  I'd buy one...


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## wa5cab (Nov 4, 2014)

Steve,

Nice looking work.  If the two extra holes are tapped, you can tell people that they are for jack screws to aid in removal.:jester: 		

For the record, for those who might not know, "618" is an Atlas model number, and applies only to the Atlas badged 6X18's.  Sears sold the same machine after 1957 but with a Craftsman badge and a model number of 101.21400.  Earlier, Atlas built and Sears sold the sleeve bearing 101.07301, which is also a 6X18 but not a 618.  I suspect that the tendency to call all 6" lathes with 18" between centers "618's" is the source of the myth that some 618's have 1"-8 spindle nose threads.  None do.  It's sorta like the tendency among one class of Ham to call ATC's "ART13" (sic) and ATA/ARA and SCR-274-N "ARC5" (sic).

Robert D.


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## SG51Buss (Nov 4, 2014)

Thanks, Robert.  I was hoping for a response from you. :thumbsup2:

Yes, those holes are threaded, and are indeed used for jackscrews and lift points for the gantry crane :whistle:.

I've read many of your posts (very informative) and understand the '618' issue, and how a street slang moniker develops an unstoppable life of its own, grating on the nerves of the purists.  Like 'back pressure' in exhaust discussions.

My machine, inherited from dad, never was badged.  Only the gearcover has 2 holes for badging, none in the headstock or bed.  Wasn't until the late '80s that I needed to identify it so to find parts.  I believe dad mostly dealt with Atlas.  It has some mystery components that I'll try to post in future threads.

Am I correct in understanding that, aside from the sleeve-bearing headstock and 1"-8TPI spindle, that everything else is Atlas and Craftsman identical and interchangeable?  If so, then many of my future project topics would most likely apply equally to both.

So, what would be the appropriate moniker to use here for this group of machines?
Atlas/Craftsman 6x18, Atlas/Craftsman 6-inch, other???


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## Round in circles (Nov 4, 2014)

Thanks for posting and the pictures .

I like the whole idea and may be able to do similar on my lathe ( not an Atlas but similar )  but make it in steel or aluminum as it's cheaper and just as easy to do  . 

 I think that my  indicator pointer / viewer  will be a small thin slot cut ( Dremmel ground )  in some 1/4 inch thick 2 inch angle aluminum .  Cut & set up  so it is close to the scale reading that way there will be less chance of taking a false reading . I think there will be enough meat on the headstock casing to take a couple of small locating screws for me to put the viewing  window device there. 

 What has struck me is that with care  I may be able to scratch the gradients out on the edge face of the wheel using the cross slide so it looks a bit like my cross slide graduations.


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## Inflight (Nov 4, 2014)

Very elegant solution! :thumbsup2:   I use an outboard end version on my 10" Atlas machines.  I like your's more.



Matt


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## Dranreb (Nov 5, 2014)

Nice job Steve :thumbzup:


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## Ulma Doctor (Nov 5, 2014)

Great work on the degree wheel, it really looks nice!
:thumbzup3:


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## wa5cab (Nov 5, 2014)

Steve,

The Craftsman 101.21400 is identical except for badge and nameplate to the Atlas 618.  The Craftsman 101.07301 is mostly the same.  Differences are the headstock (casting) and bearings, belt cover, spindle and two of the items on it, and the countershaft bracket.  Early 618's had the same bracket.  Between 1943 and 1945, it was apparently changed on the 618's but not on the 101.07301's.  I may have missed one or two items but think that's all.

For a generic all-inclusive term, I think Atlas/Craftsman 6".  That would include the Atlas 612 and the two armature lathes as well as the MK2 and all of the Atlas built Craftsman machines, but not the AA ones.  If the widget would also be usable on the AA's, the Atlas/Craftsman & AA 6".

Robert D.



SG51Buss said:


> Am I correct in understanding that, aside from the sleeve-bearing headstock and 1"-8TPI spindle, that everything else is Atlas and Craftsman identical and interchangeable?  If so, then many of my future project topics would most likely apply equally to both.
> 
> So, what would be the appropriate moniker to use here for this group of machines?
> Atlas/Craftsman 6x18, Atlas/Craftsman 6-inch, other???


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## grain914 (Nov 6, 2014)

A great and usefull attachment! I look forward to your other posts.


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## Fabrickator (Nov 6, 2014)

Steve,  It looks real good, but am I'm missing something somewhere where you can lock the spindle at any given degree to ensure that it doesn't move like a true drilled/pinned index plate?  Or, is this for reference only.


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## SG51Buss (Nov 6, 2014)

Everyone, thanks so much for the positive responses.  That makes threads like this so worthwhile.  I'm sort of a function-over-form type, so these things won't look pretty, and will probably look amateurish, but should provide ideas.  Having a degree wheel is handier than I first expected, kinda like putting a GPS gadget in your car.  I can't drive now, without turning the contraption ON.

At the time, the immediate need was for a chuck scroll accurizing project, which will be a future thread.  Since then, this degree wheel has become like another instrument in the dash panel, another item in the visual scan.  Kinda influences your thinking while machining.  You DRO users probably get this.

I use it mostly for reference, like when adjusting runout, or to straighten small diameter rods, or marking a piece for other machining, and such.  After a while, you just kinda get dependant on it.  It opens the door to new thinking.

Fabrickator, the bull gear has 60 holes and a locking pin for simple indexing.  And, the spindle bushings are adjustable for spindle drag.  So, I'll use these depending on what I'm flogging.

For example, while making a compensator for my target pistol, I needed to control the machining of slots and ovalled ports.  Having the Dremel grinder setup vertically in the milling attachment, I could hog-out ports by hand by swivelling the tommybar chuck a specific angle, like the way you'd use a ball-turning adapter.  Another future thread.

I noticed that Sherline offers a custom 'graduated dial' fabrication service, but in minimum order runs of 200.  These things sure look nice.  Kinda gives ya ideas:


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## Round in circles (Nov 6, 2014)

Once again thanks for the pictures .......... food for thought indeed.


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## Mark_f (Nov 6, 2014)

What program did you print the degree markings with. On my old computer I could have done it in Corel, but this new one doesn't have anything worth while on it.

Mark



SG51Buss said:


> The paper strip is purposely wider than the wheel.  It's carefully cut along the border, then glued to the wheel with the chuck side of the wheel down on a flat surface, to guide the paper strip so that the right edge is aligned.  This ensures that the numbers will remain visible and be properly positioned.
> 
> I aligned the 0° part of the paper strip over the grub screw hole.  The paper has to be carved away from the hole, and it looks like a zero, easy to find.
> 
> ...


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## SG51Buss (Nov 7, 2014)

Hey, Mark.  That was done on an old '90s DOS-based shareware CAD program, Tango.  I had planned to post a .jpg of the drawing, so that members could download it, and print it with appropriate scaling.  Unfortunately, that old machine is long gone.

Nowadays, I use Intergraph's SmartSketch, recommended by a friend who worked there.  It has the features I like without the trappings of constant upgrades.  I've used it to post similar graduated scales, like the attached, but never received feedback if members use them, so I'm not sure if it's helpful...


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## Mark_f (Nov 8, 2014)

SG51Buss said:


> Hey, Mark.  That was done on an old '90s DOS-based shareware CAD program, Tango.  I had planned to post a .jpg of the drawing, so that members could download it, and print it with appropriate scaling.  Unfortunately, that old machine is long gone.
> 
> Nowadays, I use Intergraph's SmartSketch, recommended by a friend who worked there.  It has the features I like without the trappings of constant upgrades.  I've used it to post similar graduated scales, like the attached, but never received feedback if members use them, so I'm not sure if it's helpful...




I would use it. I hate to have to download software and learn to use it just for one project and I sure won't buy software for this one project. I intend to make one of these and adapt it to my south bend lathe and I want it as big as I can go which is up to 6" in diameter. I am going to fasten it to the rear of the chuck. I do a lot of indexing on my lathe but the method I use is poor at best. I think this thing is great. Just have to work out drawing it.

Mark Frazier


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## SG51Buss (Nov 9, 2014)

Wow, 6" diameter?  That'll take an 18" strip.  I think the largest you can get on an inkjet printer is just under 10.5", maybe 12" if it's printed diagonally.  That cuts you down to a 3 1/4" - 4" diameter.  Sounds like a job for Kinko's...


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## Mark_f (Nov 9, 2014)

SG51Buss said:


> Wow, 6" diameter?  That'll take an 18" strip.  I think the largest you can get on an inkjet printer is just under 10.5", maybe 12" if it's printed diagonally.  That cuts you down to a 3 1/4" - 4" diameter.  Sounds like a job for Kinko's...




I'd settle for what I can print on a legal page (13")

Mark


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## SG51Buss (Nov 9, 2014)

Okay, I'll draw up a couple of marking strips, one for each direction, and post it here when I'm done.  In the meantime, I suppose one option would be to use a simple tape measure.

If you took an 'inch' tape measure, marked in 1/16" increments, you could cut out maybe a 1/4" wide strip of the edge that has the individual markings.  Then, at 1/16" per degree mark, that'll be 360/16 = 22.5" for the circumference, which would wrap around a 7.16" diameter wheel.




Or, use a metric tape measure, with 1mm per degree, that'll be 360mm (14.173") for the circumference, which would wrap around a 4.51" diameter wheel.  You could even leave the numeral markings on it (which would be in centimeters), and add a 'zero' to each number.







Or, you could get some automotive adhesive-backed pin-striping tape, and meticulously mark each 0.050", which would give you a 18" strip for the circumference, which would wrap around a 5.73" diameter wheel.  Or find some with preprinted markings.


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## Round in circles (Nov 9, 2014)

If you can't do the scale big enough on one sheet of paper make it in parts .

Decide the diameter you'd like for the indicator disk/wheel ( it may well be slightly different at the end of the exercise ) .

Then use  Pi times  Diameter = circumference .  Pi being 3.142 or 22/7 to five or more places if you feel like it .

Adjust the diameter so the circumference is exactly divisible by 360 so you can design a scale in degrees . Make it so you can clearly identify one division per degree .Turn you disk to the exact diameter needed . ( check your figures a couple of times ) 

Use eXcel of similar to make & print off on two exact scales with numbering and bigger marks at the five & ten degree points . make the scales in 180 degrees or three of 120 degrees or four of 90 degrees , glue & tape them in carefully place on the disk  or use a big heat shrink band etc etc. .


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## SG51Buss (Nov 9, 2014)

Just for fun, here's a printable degree wheel:


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## Round in circles (Nov 9, 2014)

SG51Buss said:


> Okay, I'll draw up a couple of marking strips, one for each direction, and post it here when I'm done.  In the meantime, I suppose one option would be to use a simple tape measure.
> 
> If you took an 'inch' tape measure, marked in 1/16" increments, you could cut out maybe a 1/4" wide strip of the edge that has the individual markings.  Then, at 1/16" per degree mark, that'll be 360/16 = 22.5" for the circumference, which would wrap around a 7.16" diameter wheel.
> 
> ...


 

Take care with plastic paper or surveyors flat steel tapes etc they might been made in China or India etc and leave a lot to be desired wrt. accuracy . Self adhesiv tapes tend to stretch how ever there are some failry accurate wood working device adhesive strip measures that might be useable as they tend to be on a strong plastic metalized backing .

 I'll have a look on line for the sort of thing I'm thinking of .    An  18 cm long one would be a bit of a small indicator disk but several  could be a whole new ball game

 eBay item 111483477188 is a Starret metal flat tape in imperial & metric which are usually fairly accurate at 60 o F 

       So  360 mm .... 36 cm in divisions of one  five & ten making 360 millimetres  ) being a circle in degrees sounds ideal 

3.14258 pi to 5 places  x 114.52 mm diameter  =359.91918 decrees or as near as dammit 36 centimeter 

 114.52 mm / 25.4 = inches diameter = 4.5087 inches to five places 
     .


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## wa5cab (Nov 9, 2014)

22/7 is an approximation.  Pi to five places is 3.14159

Robert D.


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## Mark_f (Nov 9, 2014)

Wow..... this is fascinating. I been racking my brain trying to get this stupid computer to scale me a drawing or even make one and can't do it for some reason.uch::whiteflag: ( well, could be i ain't smart enough. I get dumber as I get older.). Maybe I can work with some of these suggestions. thanks guys.


Mark Frazier

I don't really care about the diameter. I just want it as large as I can which is between 4 and 6 inches somewhere and I want it to look nice. That why I want to print it , plus I have magnetic paper (heavy) that is also very sticky on one side and I can run it through my printer. I have 5 inch round steel I can cut down to a needed diameter.ondering:


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## Round in circles (Nov 9, 2014)

wa5cab said:


> 22/7 is an approximation.  Pi to five places is 3.14159
> 
> Robert D.



That's interesting Robert ... I was taught at the Electrical & Mechanical Engineering Apprentice college that I attended for 3 yrs was that 22/7 was the right equation that's why it never works out as a decimal .

I'm intrigued , can you point me to any places that explain how it is derived please? .


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## John Hasler (Nov 9, 2014)

Round in circles said:


> That's interesting Robert ... I was taught at the Electrical & Mechanical Engineering Apprentice college that I attended for 3 yrs was that 22/7 was the right equation that's why it never works out as a decimal .
> 
> I'm intrigued , can you point me to any places that explain how it is derived please? .



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pi


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## Round in circles (Nov 9, 2014)

Thanks for that John ...my head .....it's going... going  "Round in circles. 

 By the time I'd speed read to about half the reference ... I nearly lost the will to live  :lmao:


It's interesting to see that there are so many new accuracies for it . I'd never heard of anything other than old Archimedes way as being 22/7  . 

It only goes to show that you can learn something new every day ( especially if you suffer from the early stages of Alzheimer's like I seem to do :rofl.


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## Mark_f (Nov 9, 2014)

I give up :whiteflag:  . I just spent 5 hours trying to print a scale from several software programs. I got close , but me and this computer are not getting along.:banghead::banghead: .  I'm going to the shop and do what I do best, cut metal and make chips. I got along 45 years without a degree wheel , I guess I'll make it till I die without one too.


Mark


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## SG51Buss (Nov 10, 2014)

Round in circles said:


> ...eBay item 111483477188 is a Starret metal flat tape in imperial & metric which are usually fairly accurate at 60 o F ...



Yeah, I like that.  Found them under "Starrett Stix", around $10.







That last one is marked in millimeters, so no need to add the extra 'zero'.  Just need to cut off the first 360 millimeters and slice it down the middle.  Might need to subtract a little from the disc's diameter to account for the tape's thickness...


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## wa5cab (Nov 10, 2014)

John beat me to it.  22/7 is close enough for most machining but it is off by one in the third decimal place.  

22/7 = 2.142857143...
Pi     = 3.141592653...

:whistle:

Robert D.



Round in circles said:


> That's interesting Robert ... I was taught at the Electrical & Mechanical Engineering Apprentice college that I attended for 3 yrs was that 22/7 was the right equation that's why it never works out as a decimal .
> 
> I'm intrigued , can you point me to any places that explain how it is derived please? .


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## SG51Buss (Nov 10, 2014)

I like to be as accurate as possible when using Pi, easy enuff when you have a 'Pi' button on your calculator, but that can be unnecessarily picky for some tasks.  Like when Kirk asks Spock "How long 'till we reach Alpha-Ceti-6?", and Spock responds "Precisely 2 days, 4 hours, and 7.623 minutes".

If you used a metric tape, precisely cut to 360mm, what disc diameter would you need, rounded to the nearest 0.001", which is practical enuff for this task?

Using the 'Pi' button, giving extreme accuracy:  Diameter = 4.511"
Using my favorite, Pi = 3.14159:  Diameter = 4.511"
Using Pi = 3.1416:  Diameter = 4.511"
Using Pi = 3.14:  Diameter = 4.514"
Using Pi = 22/7:  Diameter = 4.510"

If I was trying to precisely fit bushings or press-fit parts, I'll use the 'Pi' button.  But here, we're trying to wrap a tape around a disc, hopefully with little-to-no visible gap or overlap of the ends, and account for the tape's adhesive and thickness.  For this, 22/7 is good 'nuff...


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## Mark_f (Nov 10, 2014)

)  I am going to buy one of those tapes.4.511 seems a good enough diameter for me.

Mark Frazier





SG51Buss said:


> I like to be as accurate as possible when using Pi, easy enuff when you have a 'Pi' button on your calculator, but that can be unnecessarily picky for some tasks.  Like when Kirk asks Spock "How long 'till we reach Alpha-Ceti-6?", and Spock responds "Precisely 2 days, 4 hours, and 7.623 minutes".
> 
> If you used a metric tape, precisely cut to 360mm, what disc diameter would you need, rounded to the nearest 0.001", which is practical enuff for this task?
> 
> ...


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## SG51Buss (Nov 11, 2014)

Okay, here's a jpg of the degree wheel marking tape.  Unfortunately, the max resolution of forum uploads is 1280 pixels.  When I printed my tape, on a 300 dpi printer, the 7.2" tape image used about 2160 dots.  So, simply scaling and printing this jpg image will result in loss of resolution, and the degree lines may appear mis-aligned.




Also attached is a zip file containing 3 versions of this image in bmp, gif and jpg.  A 4th file in this zip is DegreeWheel.igr, which is the original drawing in Intergraph SmartSketch format.  So, if you have this application (which came pre-installed on many PC's), you could load the file and get a better printout.


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## Round in circles (Nov 11, 2014)

mark_f said:


> I give up :whiteflag:  . I just spent 5 hours trying to print a scale from several software programs. I got close , but me and this computer are not getting along.:banghead::banghead: .  I'm going to the shop and do what I do best, cut metal and make chips. I got along 45 years without a degree wheel , I guess I'll make it till I die without one too.
> 
> 
> Mark



Mark, 
Don't despair  . 

   Gradomatic v10 .....is an easy way to get a scale that can be marked to indicate 1 mm is 1 degree along the edge of an A4 printed sheet and have a little 3 mm wide margin as well ( you might need reading  glasses to start developing it for a scale /ruler strip though . ( Gradomatic 's  prime use is to make accurate graph paper ) 

 NutnBits .com  is where to pick it up .

There is a menu that asks you what colours , line styles and line thicknesses you want to play with . 

 I've use the thinnest black lines possible for the 1 mm points and size two lines for the red intermediate lines ( every five mm ) and dark blue for the 10 mm grid lines  . ( I have a laser colour printer so can get really fine lines if needed ) .


 If you use both long sides/edges  of the printed sheet you can make two paper scale  rulers of 180 mm /180 degrees 
It only took me three prints outs to find the right setting up 

 If you still can't make head nor tail of things drop me a PM with your full name address and zip codes etc. & I'll send you a couple of printed sheets via snail mail from this side of the pond.


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## Round in circles (Nov 11, 2014)

SG51Buss said:


> Yeah, I like that.  Found them under "Starrett Stix", around $10.
> 
> View attachment 87527
> 
> ...



You can reverse the tape when it's cut to 360 mm and do a trial and error turning down of the disk diameter at ambient temperatures,  then once it butts up nice and tight  clean & wash the  disk to remove all traces of oil etc ,let it cool to ambient temp again stick the tape on it .Secure the tape inplace with a bog standard clear sticky tape 

Just make sure the disk is made of steel not aluminum or brass due to coefficients of expansion differences .
 Once the tape adhesive has cured for a couple of days it should be possible to turn off the unwanted portion . If that is thought too  scary make a slipped over screwed on finger tight outer ring to hold everything in place  before turning it off. Once the excess tape is off remove the outer keeper ring .

 Whilst looking for the metric measure in the UK online stores I happened to find the Starrett tape measures site ,        SM44ME is a 1.2 metre  long self adhesive tape jobby ,  it should be cheaper than a 12 foot long one & less wasteful unless the longer ones are restarted numerically after every meter of length then you get three 1.2 metre tapes for the $10 .

I haven't found a UK stockist yet but there may be other solutions , such as getting a friend to roll a quality bright steel  1 metre long metric ruler ( I have one of these as it was fairly cheap)  into a band and slicing at right angles it at 360 mm  point. Then once trued up epoxy gluing it  to a steel disk or fix it  hammer fit screw  rivets in drilled holes  or  even sweating it on with a SS solder whilst it's held tight to the disk with some twisted wire


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## SG51Buss (Nov 11, 2014)

Here's that GridOmatic:

http://www.nutsnbits.com/nutsnbits_000060.htm


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## John Hasler (Nov 11, 2014)

SG51Buss said:


> Here's that GridOmatic:
> 
> http://www.nutsnbits.com/nutsnbits_000060.htm



Another resource:

http://www.printfreegraphpaper.com/


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## Mark_f (Nov 11, 2014)

I have an idea I am going to try . It involves engraving a disk using my rotary table. It will be extremely tedious and time consuming but really nice if it works. But it will have to wait till my latest project is done which should be a few days.

Mark Frazier




Round in circles said:


> Mark,
> Don't despair  .
> 
> Gradomatic v10 .....is an easy way to get a scale that can be marked to indicate 1 mm is 1 degree along the edge of an A4 printed sheet and have a little 3 mm wide margin as well ( you might need reading  glasses to start developing it for a scale /ruler strip though . ( Gradomatic 's  prime use is to make accurate graph paper )
> ...


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## Round in circles (Nov 12, 2014)

If it works well are you going to be taking orders for it ? :happyhappy:


Dave


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## pebbleworm (Nov 13, 2014)

This looks useful, and in the junk box I have a very light duty dividing head like object - I think it was part of an animation stand- I pulled out of the trash 15 years ago.  3" diameter, marked with 360 degrees at the perimeter and with a not very useful  set of divisions at 36,24, 20, 15 and 10.  At least I can use part of it as a degree wheel and possibly thread the detent pin side to fit the spindle and beef up the pins?  A neat idea and a good excuse to use up, practice and possibly destroy junk.


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## SG51Buss (Nov 13, 2014)

Wow, what luck, pebbleworm.  Of course, pics would be nice...


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## Mark_f (Nov 13, 2014)

SG51Buss said:


> Wow, what luck, pebbleworm.  Of course, pics would be nice...





Yes, pics please.


I have looked things over and I am going to get a 6 inch aluminum disc 1/2" thick and put it on my rotary table, mounted on my lathe bed and engrave 360 markings around it. Then mount it to the back side of my chuck after boring the center to fit snugly over the back plate and up against the rear side of the chuck and hold it with 3 well placed tiny 6-32 set screws. The markings will look like they are part of the chuck and be right out where they are easy to see. but first, I have to go find a piece of 1/2" aluminum plate or round. and I read about the concern using aluminum with the expansion flap. Once mounted to a tight fit on the backing plate and up against the rear of the chuck the negligible expansion is not going to be a problem as on that diameter , the distance between the 1 degree marks is .055". and yes , there will  be pics as soon as I make this thing.

Mark Frazier


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## Round in circles (Nov 13, 2014)

I've just had a thunk perhaps not a bright one , but a thunk after all :lmao:. 

If you first glue then screw the finished engraved aluminium indicator to the headstock body & use a simple magnetic mounted  scriber  set up on the chuck or work piece  .  When you have chosen the points you want ,  with a cutting tool in the tool holder use either the cross slide or the top slide to to mark the  point on the part held the chuck . 

That way you can make the marks whether you are using a three , four of five jaw chuck etc or a face plate .
 The beauty of this idea is that there will be very little error , for the scriber point can be set  exceedingly  close to the engraved graduation mark . whereas with a fixed pointer on the casing it would  mean you'd have to look at the alignment from exactly the same angles every time you chose to mark things out using the indicator. 

Another advantage of my idea is that when you have marked things on the work piece you remove the magnetic scriber & block so there is simply no chance of it catching up long turnings of metal swarf ,  whereas an indicator /pointer permanently affixed to the casing  does have a chance.




Thirdly .....  Errr errr hummmm ... well there's bound to be one .:lmao:

 Ha Ha ... Goddit     ........      You can use a thin plate for the disk instead of a turning a big thick slab of metal &  having to balance it on the spindle end by the chuck  , I dare say you might only need 180 to 200 degrees of a circle as well for who looks under  or at the back of the  chuck to pick up or make  marks on their work ?


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## SG51Buss (Nov 14, 2014)

Well, it's obvious that there's a lot of sharp pencils in this box.  I knew I would like this forum.

It would be great if you folks could post up pics of your creations...


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## shoeboxpaul (Nov 14, 2014)

Mark,
I experienced similar pain. I wanted to print a few pages of graph paper to make an accurate scale drawing. There are several sites that offer different types (Cartesian, Engineering, Hexagonal, etc) and scales in either inch or metric. I have a Canon Pixma MG5400. It does wonderful for pictures, text, CDs but, no matter how I adjust the print size percentage, I cannot get a graph paper grid that equals a ruler (scale). 
Paul


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## SG51Buss (Nov 14, 2014)

The HP Print Manager software, that came with HP printers, manages the print queue and provides scaling.  Works ok for me.

The Intergraph SmartSketch software also has a scaling feature, adjustable for both X and Y independantly, and is great for fine-tweaking of scaled drawings.

However, the stuff I'm using is 10+ years old.  Not sure about current offerings...


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## Mark_f (Nov 28, 2014)

Well guys......I am still looking for an aluminum round to make my degree wheel for the back of the chuck , but  yesterday I needed one so I made a quick one. Took about an hour. I put this in the members projects forum so others may use it if they like. I am posting a photo here to let you know what I came up with. I am still going to make the one for the back of the chuck as soon as I find the material at a reasonable price.




The pointer isn't shown here, but it is magnetic and just sticks to the rear bearing housing. Only takes seconds to put on or take off. It mounts in the rear of the spindle and a brass thumb screw holds it in place.

It was made by printing the degree wheel I downloaded from the net on a sheet of photo paper and gluing it to a plastic disc made from a sheet of white plastic scavenged from an old scanner and mounting to an aluminum hub I quickly turned from a scrap piece of aluminum round. all held together with a 1/4" bolt and a fender washer. The glossy photo paper makes a really sharp and durable printing. )

Mark Frazier


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## SG51Buss (Nov 29, 2014)

Wow, Mark.  That looks so professional ... it's ...... frightening...


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