# Installing Wj200 Vfd On Pm 1340gt



## oldhank60 (Jul 9, 2016)

After 1340 has set ofr over a year waiting to be wired I am ready to start,  I would like to keep it as simple as I can so I don't end up with lathe just collecting more dust.    I would prefer to just wire up WJ200 VFD  so I can use lathe as I came from QMT.   at this time I do not wish to add bump switch or speed control.  Just want to be able to power it up and use as it sits,   can some one post how I would do this,  I am dealing with a a lot of memory loss for multiple surgeries,  what the use to put you under over time scrambles memory and take time to recover it. I have hade 9 major trips to operating room, about time I start getting memory going again I end up being sliced and diced again.   right now I am struggling to get this lathe going any photo's and wiring diagrams would be most helpful.

I did manage to get my PM935VT wired  and running but what should of took only a day or so took me weeks I would like to have lathe running before cold weather arrives. if I keep pushing my self and get info needed I should be able to accomplish this.  I don't know anyone I could hire that would be able to wire up PM935TV the way everyone else is wiring their equipment.

Henry


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## hvontres (Jul 9, 2016)

Here is a link to the writeup I did when I put a WJ200 on my mill : http://hvontres.blogspot.com/2013/08/brigepor-mill-for-garage-part-3.html
Only the upper half of the schematic is relevant, the lower part is a 24V supply and an idea for a circuit to detect if the mill is in back gear, but that has not been implemented yet. If you want, I can redraw the schematic for you. One thing I need to add in is a 50 Ohm, 500W resistor. It really helps the drive stop the spindle nice and quick (~2s on my 2J, even from full speed)

When you have the wiring done, I highly reccomend hooking up a computer to the drive with a usb cable and using the Hiachi software to set up the parameters. This is much, much faster than using the front panel. Once you haver everyting working, you can save the current setup in the drive back to the computer and if something goes wrong, you can restore it fairly easily.


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## mksj (Jul 10, 2016)

Because a lathe spindle switch does not use momentary spindle direction switches, you usually need to incorporate some form of power reset relay so the machine does not restart if the switch is engaged when you turn the machine on. You cannot connect the VFD like an RPC to the power input of the lathe and have it work properly, the VFD output is usually directly wired to the 3 phase motor and the VFD functions usually operated by the inputs.  The VFD needs to be programmed to know what to do when inputs are activated. Programming the VFD can be a bit challenging, so it is something that I would suggest you have someone help you with that when you get to that point.  On a lathe it is beneficial to add a braking resistor to slow down the lathe faster, you do not need anything fancy (usually get them from Asia as aluminum encased with 2 leads), anything in the 50-75 oms range, 300-1000W. These sell for $30-40 on eBay, a little more if from the US.

Attached is a older design that I had use to build, which uses just a single relay. You basically remove the current control board and mount a single relay on it and keep the current terminal strip and the wiring cable to the front spindle switch. You can try to use the current switches, but in all the systems I build I replace the stock switches. I have included a programing parameters for the VFD. The Hitachi VFD software is not so easy to install and use, but once you figure it out it is quicker then manually programming the VFD. Also if you try to program the VFD manually, many parameters are locked out so you need to do the following to unlock the parameters before you do anything else.
READ THIS: If you manually program the WJ200 via the keypad you must first:
1. Change B037 to "00" for full display of all functions. You must press both the up and down arrows to access single-digit edit mode since this feature is not accessible in the default basic display. You must change B037 before you can change B031.
AND THEN
2. Change B031 to "10". This unlocks all the high level program functions for editing. Then make the following program changes that are highlighted.


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## Silverbullet (Jul 10, 2016)

Isn't there a member near this guy who could help him out by visiting his shop for a few hrs if it takes that long. Or make a video to guide him ?


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## fixit (Jul 10, 2016)

mksj said:


> Because a lathe spindle switch does not use momentary spindle direction switches, you usually need to incorporate some form of power reset relay so the machine does not restart if the switch is engaged when you turn the machine on. You cannot connect the VFD like an RPC to the power input of the lathe and have it work properly, the VFD output is usually directly wired to the 3 phase motor and the VFD functions usually operated by the inputs.  The VFD needs to be programmed to know what to do when inputs are activated. Programming the VFD can be a bit challenging, so it is something that I would suggest you have someone help you with that when you get to that point.  On a lathe it is beneficial to add a braking resistor to slow down the lathe faster, you do not need anything fancy (usually get them from Asia as aluminum encased with 2 leads), anything in the 50-75 oms range, 300-1000W. These sell for $30-40 on eBay, a little more if from the US.
> 
> Attached is a older design that I had use to build, which uses just a single relay. You basically remove the current control board and mount a single relay on it and keep the current terminal strip and the wiring cable to the front spindle switch. You can try to use the current switches, but in all the systems I build I replace the stock switches. I have included a programing parameters for the VFD. The Hitachi VFD software is not so easy to install and use, but once you figure it out it is quicker then manually programming the VFD. Also if you try to program the VFD manually, many parameters are locked out so you need to do the following to unlock the parameters before you do anything else.
> READ THIS: If you manually program the WJ200 via the keypad you must first:
> ...



outstanding job
fixit


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## oldhank60 (Jul 11, 2016)

if I read this correctly other than adding a brake, to use lathe I just run 240 to wj200 in put side and then run from wj200  3 ph to lathe motor,   do I un hook the relays on lathe still or is that only if you want to add jog  and speed controls,


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## mksj (Jul 12, 2016)

Yes, 240 single phase comes in and connect to L1 and N, power to the motor connects directly to U, V, W inputs as shown below. No motor or high voltage goes to the contactors.  A braking resistor would connect to RB and either +1 or + terminal. The braking resistor would be anything in the 300-1000W and usually 50 ohms or slightly higher.

The issue is getting the Spindle controls to control the VFD. These are LOW voltage connections and must be kept completely separate from the HV. The VFD must be programmed so it will know what to do when an input is activated. Unlike a mill, you usually need a power relay so the lathe cannot restart if the spindle switch is set on, you also need an E-Stop. Failure to have some form of power relay is very dangerous. There may be some way to use the contactors as relays to control the VFD, but they would need to be stripped of their high voltage wiring.  The speed pot is completely independent of all this and has its own connections, and is minor to add. Is it possible that you could get someone in your area to assist you, as incorrect wiring would be very serious.


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## pstemari (Jul 12, 2016)

On my erl-1340 they had installed a fourth contactor to serve as the power relay. I would up pulling that and the forward and reverse contactors out entirely. I've got an Omron 4PDT relay serving as the power reset.

Most of the existing switches for the spindle control are intact. I had to move the power source for the spindle switches from 24VAC supplied by the power reset contactor to 24VDC supplied by the new relay.  

Likewise, the e-stop and safety interlocks are now fed from 24VDC and go to the new relay coil.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


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## oldhank60 (Jul 12, 2016)

question: if I had 3 phase coming into shop, would I be able to wire it up to panel on lathe and run with out problems?   I don't have 3 phase its just a question, also if I could get a rotary phase converter of some type could I just run to panel and safely use lathe.  I can do some electrical work but I am completely lost when it comes to any type of programmable controls. 
I know of no one in my area that could help me wire lathe,  I can try and sell wj200 and but a 2hp rotary phase converter if that would be easier for me to use, as in wire it to existing panel on lathe on start making chips.   it will cost me a few dollars more but machine will be running and I could start doing some paying jobs,      that's better than it just sitting slowly rusting away.

Henry


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## pstemari (Jul 12, 2016)

Sure, if you have three-phase coming in you just need to run it to the lathe. No wiring mods required.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


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## mksj (Jul 12, 2016)

Yes you could run a 3 phase RPC directly to the machine. Alternatively, I have another individual who will donate his original PM1340GT  control system  (I built a new system for him), and I can modify it to work with the WJ200 VFD or convert it over to a single relay system at no cost to you. If you mail me you WJ200, I could program it for you, wire everything up and mail it back to you. You would need to swap out the control boards, but it is just matching the wire numbers to the terminals and I provide pictures and wire labels. If you send me your old control box with your WJ200 VFD I can wire up everything to be almost turnkey (just connect the power in and the motor cable to the motor..
Mark


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## oldhank60 (Jul 12, 2016)

mksj said:


> Yes you could run a 3 phase RPC directly to the machine. Alternatively, I have another individual who will donate his original PM1340GT  control system  (I built a new system for him), and I can modify it to work with the WJ200 VFD or convert it over to a single relay system at no cost to you. If you mail me you WJ200, I could program it for you, wire everything up and mail it back to you. You would need to swap out the control boards, but it is just matching the wire numbers to the terminals and I provide pictures and wire labels. If you send me your old control box with your WJ200 VFD I can wire up everything to be almost turnkey (just connect the power in and the motor cable to the motor..
> Mark


  old control box?   your offer sounds good to me,   I'm for what ever it takes to get lathe up and running.  I would be willing to pay if you could do the set up with all the add on's everyone is using, bump switch ( I can drill hole to mount toggle), speed control  if you have good photo and directions I can run this also.


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## mksj (Jul 12, 2016)

I would suggest you PM me with your email and phone number and I can help you through this. I build lots of these systems, and am pretty familiar with this machine. If you do not mind sending me the parts, I can get you a working system. It is possible to use the current control board (that I would send to you reconfigured), but we would still have the issue of programming the VFD. So it may be easier to use a single relay design and provide additional controls.

What I am suggesting is you can unbolt the control system box with the two 6 mm Allen screws on either side of the control board and remove it. Also remove the front control panel with the 4 screws. If you send the WJ200 VFD, the control box housing (NOT the current system board inside it) and the front control panel with switches, I can build a new system for you and program the VFD.  You should just have to bolt the box to your machine and mount the front panel, connect power to the VFD and the motor lead. All the cables and switches will be mounted, so there should be no need for figuring it out and I will tune the VFD to the stock 3 phase motor. It takes me a while to get the parts in, so probably be 3 weeks once I get the system, I have a couple of other systems I am working on. We can go over the details, if you want other features, I would use the single relay design that uses the VFD power supply. I would do the speed control, 2 braking rates, jog forward, E-Stop if that works for you. I would need to replace the E-Stop switch with a 24VDC LED  lighted one, I will use your current Jog button, add a braking rate switch and I have a speed pot that I will need to make an adapter to fit your panel. If you have a 24V light I will need to know that. Lets see what can be done.  You would need to purchase a braking resister, I will provide links, they have 2 wires to connect.

You need to think where you want the VFD to be mounted. I am trying to keep it as simple as possible so you do not need to connect/disconnect any wires, so you could mount it on the wall behind the VFD, or the back or side of the headstock cabinet with a shield over the top of the VFD about 2-3 inches above it.  The VFD power in can be configured for a plug or a direct connect, but should be on a 30A 240VAC breaker.


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## oldhank60 (Jul 12, 2016)

phone and email sent,  I have disconnect allready mounted on wall behind lathe location, the plan was to mount vfd on wall right next to disconnect.

I have all kinds of e-stop switches here on hand,  I will need to check rating on them,  one of them may work or if you need any I may have what you need, Yes I do have the 24V light can jog be made to do forward or /and reverse.

to make sure I understand You want me to remove control panel from back of lathe located just above factory motor,  and ship but you do not need anything inside the box?  
and remove switch/control plate from front of lathe without removing anything  and ship it also. 

I should have those parts removed tomorrow morning and have them shipped to your location on before end of week 

will purchase brake resistor that you reccomend soon as you can send me the link,  do I have it shipped to me or have it shipped to you.  

I do have a dedicated line for DRO  it does have earth ground and I can use standard 15A or 20A receptacle if GFCI will trip due to VFD noise

I have nema box but after removing wj200 from box I am not sure if it will fit.  may not be deep enough

Henry


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## mksj (Jul 13, 2016)

The E-stop is a 22mm low voltage, but needs a 24VDC LED lamp. The complete system needs to be very frugal power wise. In the Jog, it can be outfitted with a direction toggle switch, I do a joystick on some builds, but this is getting to be a bigger build and more parts. All the switched would be replaced if you go the joystick route.   I cannot start your build for at least 2 weeks,  as I have other work commitments that are already lined up. I will line up yours after that. Will get you specs on the brake resistor, they can take 3-4 weeks from Asia.

I will need to speak to you about the light, the stock light is about 70W, so you (or I) can reuse the stock transformer to power the light. Alternative is to use a separate p24VDC power supply, there is limited choices since the box is so small and it is ordered from the factory in Asia.

GFI is no problem for the DRO, just can't connect a VFD to it. On the nema enclosure, it means you will need to undo the VFD wires to pass them through the strain reliefs. I do mark everything, but I am trying to keep assembly on your end to a minimum. The VFD is very deep, so needs at least a 7" deep enclosure on the interior.
Mark


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## oldhank60 (Jul 13, 2016)

ok jog can be just  1 direction,  Basicly want to do this as simple as possible, stock light and transformer is just fine,   brake resistor from ebay should do the trick just tell me which to get,  the GFCI is for DRO only nothing else will be on circuit so should not be a problem,   direction from DRO manufacture call for earth ground  and earth ground breaker,  I can get gfci breaker but figure gfci receptacle should work and I have 10-15 of them on shelf.
I have spent last few years wanting to get this finished so a few more weeks are no problem,  will be removing parts from lathe today,


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