# Bolton HA330 Project



## matthewsx

Finally had a chance to check out the lathe as yesterday evening was spent helping our daughter with student loans for her masters program.

Stuff fits into one of three categories, bent, broken, and just needs improvement. There were a bunch of not very tight fasteners, I don't know if they were loosened at some point or just that way from the factory but I'm figuring the latter so everything needs to be checked over regardless of if it's busted or not.

Here's the machine as it landed in my shop, surprisingly it's almost exactly the same color I painted the Craftsman that I traded for it.







First I pulled all the control rods.






I figure I can straighten these out with a little finesse, at least good enough to make replacements if needed. You can see the shaft sleeve is broken which is a part I may try to source from a similar machine.

Then I pulled the apron and found a broken screw nut seat.






If the terms I'm using seem strange that's because I'm going from what the parts list calls them so I can hopefully cross-reference things.

The cross slide screw is definitely bent but that may have to wait a while.






The gearbox seems fine.






And the electrical looks good.






Of course the biggest issue is the gap which decided to separate and go for a tumble down the highway on the ride home.











@Aaron_W  suggested JB Weld which I didn't think was such a great idea at the time but I am seriously considering some sort of epoxy, maybe the 3M Titanium stuff I used in my race engines.

Well, I definitely have some work ahead of me but I'm confident I can make it into a capable machine eventually. Please chime in if you have suggestions for other makes/models that may have similar parts, It looks like all the other 13 or 14 x 40's coming out of China. It was built in 2012 and from what I can tell it was never really used from new since it appears to still have the factory cosmoline on it's bed and other parts.


John


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## Aukai

Would this work on your lathe?








						Vtg.Steel Crank Handle for Machinist Tools,Lathes,Milling Tables,& Vises 1/2"Key  | eBay
					

Marks found, stamped with ether a 6 or 9??.



					www.ebay.com


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## Firstram

There is a guy in Georgia that converts Bolton lathes to CNC and sells the  take off parts. I don't know if he will ship but here's a link to one of his ads.









						Machinery Handwheels - tools - by owner - sale
					

Handwheels for Sale Available for sale is an assortment of handwheels with dial indicators. These...



					atlanta.craigslist.org
				




I picked up some parts a few years ago and he has everything you need. I mean pallets of lead screws, aprons and boxes of hand wheels with their leads crews (cross slide). Obviously, he uses the gap you need so you'll have to repair yours.


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## MrWhoopee

Looks like the CI is pretty thin on that gap insert. In addition to the epoxy of your choice, I'd be inclined to use some sort of mechanical reinforcement like a steel plate, probably spanning beyond both sets of mounting holes.


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## Mtnmac

MrWhoopee said:


> Looks like the CI is pretty thin on that gap insert. In addition to the epoxy of your choice, I'd be inclined to use some sort of mechanical reinforcement like a steel plate, probably spanning beyond both sets of mounting holes.


This would be my approach as well.  As the existing fasteners are located where it cracked, you really should place new fasteners.  Maybe 2 for each half of the gap which also engage a plate to hold them together.  Because of the way it cracked through the fasteners, I would be suspicious that the gap does not locate on the lathe very well and the fasteners created stress when they were tightened, eventually leading to the crack.


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## Mitch Alsup

MrWhoopee said:


> Looks like the CI is pretty thin on that gap insert. In addition to the epoxy of your choice, I'd be inclined to use some sort of mechanical reinforcement like a steel plate, probably spanning beyond both sets of mounting holes.



Steel pins in holes before expoy.


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## Firstram

Mtnmac said:


> This would be my approach as well.  As the existing fasteners are located where it cracked, you really should place new fasteners.  Maybe 2 for each half of the gap which also engage a plate to hold them together.  Because of the way it cracked through the fasteners, I would be suspicious that the gap does not locate on the lathe very well and the fasteners created stress when they were tightened, eventually leading to the crack.




I think the gap took a solid hit when all of that damage happened. One good sideways hit to the front way would break/crack the cast iron thru the front bolts. The vibrations from riding on the trailer just shook it loose.


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## mikey

Firstram said:


> I think the gap took a solid hit when all of that damage happened. One good sideways hit to the front way would break/crack the cast iron thru the front bolts. The vibrations from riding on the trailer just shook it loose.




This was my thought as well. There is enough damage to the lathe to suggest it fell onto it's front face. Fixable but unfortunate.


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## matthewsx

Firstram said:


> I think the gap took a solid hit when all of that damage happened. One good sideways hit to the front way would break/crack the cast iron thru the front bolts. The vibrations from riding on the trailer just shook it loose.


That’s what I figure too, I don’t think the guy who had it before had any idea it was cracked I certainly didn’t. I’m pretty sure with all the knowledge here I’ll be able to get it fixed though.

John


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## matthewsx

Oh, his add was clear it had dropped. I just figure there’s no way I could ever make a 6” Craftsman do what this one can.

John


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## matthewsx

This machine is set-up for 3 phase and as much as I'd like to convert it to a VFD for variable speed I think the smart move will be getting a static phase converter. Any thoughts on this one?









						SPC-3
					

Run motors at two-thirds power with the heavy duty SPC-3 Static Phase Converter. This static phase converter offers reliable performance for any industry.




					www.northamericaphaseconverters.com
				




Thanks,

John


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## matthewsx

I pulled the apron off today and found one more broken part, have sent my parts list off to the folks @Firstram told me about so we'll see just how much I can buy vs. fix or make. So far there's nothing that looks like it'll stop me from making it into a working machine. There is absolutely no wear on this thing at all, I think the guy's father bought it just to have it and then it got dropped during a move and never fixed. 

There's no room on the top of the broken gap piece so I think any additional support will need to come from the side. I'll probably drill and tap it to attach a piece of 3/8 steel plate. That way I can run it before committing to any epoxy fastening.

John


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## BGHansen

matthewsx said:


> This machine is set-up for 3 phase and as much as I'd like to convert it to a VFD for variable speed I think the smart move will be getting a static phase converter. Any thoughts on this one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SPC-3
> 
> 
> Run motors at two-thirds power with the heavy duty SPC-3 Static Phase Converter. This static phase converter offers reliable performance for any industry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.northamericaphaseconverters.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John


I have the same one on a Bridgeport with a 2 HP motor.  I've had the mill for 3 years, never had an issue with the unit.  Guess I'm only getting 1.3 HP because of the loss with the static converter.  A step-pulley BP has a 1 HP motor, so I'm still better than one of those.  Haven't stalled a tool yet, but I rarely push a machine.

Bruce


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## matthewsx

BGHansen said:


> I have the same one on a Bridgeport with a 2 HP motor.  I've had the mill for 3 years, never had an issue with the unit.  Guess I'm only getting 1.3 HP because of the loss with the static converter.  A step-pulley BP has a 1 HP motor, so I'm still better than one of those.  Haven't stalled a tool yet, but I rarely push a machine.
> 
> Bruce


Thanks, I'll order one as it seems the best (cheapest) option and made here in the USA....

John


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## extropic

You say you have a parts list. Do you also have an Owners Manual with a specification sheet?
If you do, it should tell you what type of spindle nose you have. I would be interested to know.


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## matthewsx

extropic said:


> You say you have a parts list. Do you also have an Owners Manual with a specification sheet?
> If you do, it should tell you what type of spindle nose you have. I would be interested to know.



Thanks, it's a funky bolt on affair not anything standard. I've moved that discussion over here.









						D 1-X spindle mount adapter
					

My new to me Bolton 13x40 has a funky bolted on chuck which seems more like what you'd see on a mini lathe than something of this size. I was thinking of making or sourcing some kind of adapter that could be bolted to the spindle and would accept D 1-4 or 1-5 backplates or chucks.  This guy...




					www.hobby-machinist.com
				




Just in case somebody is looking for it later.

John


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## matthewsx

First run.





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## matthewsx

I figured it would be good to fire her up before putting too much work in so I bought a static phase converter and hooked it up. It runs smooth and fairly quiet and I doubt it had ever been set-up to make anything so I'm pretty confident it'll be a worthy project. 

My first inclination was to do a VFD conversion but I wanted to see how the stock controls worked first. After some investigation and adjustment I'm definitely convinced that the conversion will be a good idea and it's worth doing sooner rather than later. 

I think I have a non-destructive, reversible plan for fixing the gap and have located stock to make the leadscrew and control rods from if I can't buy replacements. I now have an oxy-acetelyne rig so I'll try my hand at brazing the other cast iron bits that are broken. 

John


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## matthewsx

Made some progress this weekend, I didn't take pictures of it but yesterday I fabricated the new full length "forward board" that holds the front of the carriage down. Made it from two pieces of tool steel I bought from McMaster-Carr. Harbor Freight transfer punch was my friend there.

Today I fitted the apron hand wheel and actually made some chips with her.







Then I needed a keyway, good thing I have a die filer.






Who needs a broach?






And we're moving along.






John


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## mikey

A die filer! I love it! Those machines are getting rarer as time goes by. Looks like things are coming together nicely, John.


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## matthewsx

Made a little more progress on the Bolton today, I removed the feed gear box for a little clean-up.







I moved the start switch to the top of the machine, it will buy me time to fix or replace the piece that the control rod runs through for starting/stopping the machine. I guess it's attached to the apron for convenience when threading?






And I installed a spinning handle on the handwheel I fitted last month (it was a busy couple of weeks with my mom's 90th birthday and the wife visiting from Michigan)











Took a test cut.






John


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## matthewsx

I cleaned and reattached the threading gearbox, getting all the knobs actuating the right gears was a pain but now I know if I need to take it off again just to remove the whole thing.

I also tackled a project I've been wanting to do since I put it in place, mobility!!!!
















Yes, I am worried about supporting the insides of the cabinets.






But that will have to wait till another day....

John


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## matthewsx

Major milestone today, I have a working leadscrew and feedrod  I know that might not be that big a deal to folks who bought new or fully functional lathes but with the exception of straightening and re-attaching some sheet metal I'm pretty much done with repairs.






I do have some hex rod to replace the one for the switch but I'm not sure I'm going to bother with that since I have one wired up on top that is working fine and I never ran a lathe with the fwd/rev lever below the apron. Next will be working on the stand so I can level it properly and see how much accuracy I can get out of it. Don't have super high expectations but it's definitely more capable than the 6" Craftsman I traded for it  

John


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## Aukai

Good job


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## Firstram

matthewsx said:


> Took a test cut.
> View attachment 339309
> 
> 
> John



It looks like your tool post is assembled wrong and the handle timing is off. More than likely the plungers are in the wrong holes. Take it apart, clean/lube it up and swap the holes when you reassemble.  The dovetails should be facing the chuck and parallel to the ways with the handle out of the way when properly assembled.

Nice work so far!


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## matthewsx

Firstram said:


> It looks like your tool post is assembled wrong and the handle timing is off. More than likely the plungers are in the wrong holes. Take it apart, clean/lube it up and swap the holes when you reassemble.  The dovetails should be facing the chuck and parallel to the ways with the handle out of the way when properly assembled.
> 
> Nice work so far!


Thank you for noticing, I realized as soon as I posted that picture. I've done many set-ups since then and am pretty sure I have it on correctly now.

John


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## mattthemuppet2

that's a hell of trade! I imagine that the difference between your 6" lathe and this will be pretty enormous. Good work on getting everything working again. Is this the lathe that someone welded/ brazed up the gap insert for? I vaguely remember reading about it's trip down the road and fix, but that might have been someone else.


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## matthewsx

mattthemuppet2 said:


> that's a hell of trade! I imagine that the difference between your 6" lathe and this will be pretty enormous. Good work on getting everything working again. Is this the lathe that someone welded/ brazed up the gap insert for? I vaguely remember reading about it's trip down the road and fix, but that might have been someone else.



Yes, definitely an upgrade. Lots of stuff from McMaster-Carr and using the machine to fix itself. I suppose it will be a long project now getting it squared up and as accurate as it can be after I get the backpslash re-attached and the stand fixed up. And yes, this is the one that lost part of it's gap on the ride home and I went back for it.

John


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