# Got My Qcgb



## Strtspdlx (Jun 23, 2015)

Well my gearbox came in the mail yesterday and needless to say I'm not very satisfied. I was aware the banjo had been repaired but the seller didn't say anything about the selector arm being repaired or the support arm being repaired. The center shaft has a good 1/16" of play on the bushing. And there's a few stripped holes. I paid 300$ for it as a complete ready to go setup but I'm concerned it isn't exactly functional. The threads I'm not concerned about I know I can helicoil them and I could probably repair the welds and blend them better. My concern is the wear in the gearbox. Given it is used but I don't think people really realize what condition things are suppose to be when you state in working condition. Any thoughts I can post pics if necessary. I want to tear it down to see how bad it is but I'm a little nervous. 


Regards-Carlo


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## kd4gij (Jun 23, 2015)

Hi
Pictures would help. These QCGB's are pritty simple and All of the bronze pushing are standerd hardwhear store bushings. That said I would contact the seller and let him knoe that you arn't happy.


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## lcato (Jun 23, 2015)

I bought mine from http://www.mymachineshop.net
I was complete and in perfect shape.


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 23, 2015)

I don't mind replacing the bushings. I actually would like to do it but I had a job waiting on this thing. 


Regards-Carlo


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 23, 2015)

Regards-Carlo


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jun 24, 2015)

if you got that off eBay I'd reject it outright. if elsewhere then i guess it's a lesson learned.


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## wa5cab (Jun 24, 2015)

You can reject it and after receiving a refund, return it.  eBay virtually always sides with the buyer against the seller.  However, you are then back looking.  And 10" gear boxes aren't real plentiful.  You might be better to try to negotiate a partial refund from the seller.  Unless you got it real cheap.  Average cost of a very good condition QCGB is probably $450 to $500.


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 24, 2015)

I paid 300 for it and expected some wear considering it is used. But the amount it has is a lot more then I had anticipated. And as mentioned they aren't very plentiful. 


Regards-Carlo


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## tomh (Jun 24, 2015)

+1 on sending it back or a partial refund, those repairs should have been the photos!


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 24, 2015)

Alright I think I'm going to price out repairs. I will need to oversize some bushing so I can undersize some shafts to make them work but I should be alright. Can I use standard bushings or should I use oilite bushings. There's two that have no oil from the cups so I think I'll put oilite bushing there aside from that can I use standard?


Regards-Carlo


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 24, 2015)

Just so everyone can see what I'm dealing with. I paid $300 for everything and $20 shipping. 
	

		
			
		

		
	








Regards-Carlo


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 24, 2015)

It isn't that bad honestly and I don't
Mind repairing it but for what I paid should I have a reason to complain? I wish I had a mill so I could do all the keyways.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jun 24, 2015)

wear is one thing and implicit in it being used, but all of the broken and repaired stuff is out of order


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## wa5cab (Jun 24, 2015)

If as you say he didn't mention or show any photos of the repairs to the bracket(s) or lever(s), that probably gives you some standing to complain.  Doing so won't cost you anything except a little time.  At $300, it was I think less than average going price.  Apparently there's nothing wrong with the main casting.  If you don't have to replace any of the gears, you can probably rebuild it without exceeding the average.  At least if you don't count the labor.  It depends on what you have to do to the shafts. And assumes you don't have to replace any gears.

If you turn down the ends of the shafts and use under size bushings, you will also need to bush the collars I think.  I would get price and availability on new shafts and also get a local machine shop to quote you prices.  I don't much like the idea of turning down the existing shafts.

If you don't buy the replacement bushings from Clausing (which I would probably do), I think that I would use Oilite bushings.  However, if you do that and if you have to bore any of them, you should hold the bushings in collets and use a sharp single-point boring bar, not a reamer.


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## iron man (Jun 24, 2015)

I rebuilt mine any Oilite bushing will work regular ones will too if you keep them lubricated there pretty slow speed. The shaft I would not worry about too much I made all of mine new there is not much to them there very easy to reproduce. As stated before they are a very simple gear box not much to them. All though the welded parts might be un-slightly there probably strong enough there was probably a previous wreck that caused them to break and they could be ground to look good again. Ray


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 24, 2015)

I think I'd reproduce the shafts myself and have someone cut the keyways as I have no way to right now. And for materials for the bushing I'm at right around 50$. I had thought about turning down the shafts and putting sleeves over the bad parts with some permeated locking compound but I'm not sure how good of a repair that would be. All the gears are okay and aside from
Stripped threads he casting is fine. 


Regards-Carlo


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## wa5cab (Jun 24, 2015)

OK.  I keep forgetting that (presumably) your lathe is still working as a change gear model.


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 24, 2015)

Yes it is still working. I'll have to call clausing for pricing on everything. 


Regards-Carlo


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## iron man (Jun 25, 2015)

Strtspdlx said:


> I think I'd reproduce the shafts myself and have someone cut the keyways as I have no way to right now. And for materials for the bushing I'm at right around 50$. I had thought about turning down the shafts and putting sleeves over the bad parts with some permeated locking compound but I'm not sure how good of a repair that would be. All the gears are okay and aside from
> Stripped threads he casting is fine.
> 
> 
> Regards-Carlo


 
$50 is a bit strong for bushings I can buy a 5/8 x 1/2 oilite bushing for around a buck all day long and anything bigger than that is not too much more..Here is just and example. Ray

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/m...mpaignId=T9F&gclid=CNqf7qjfq8YCFQoPaQodbkMGCA


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 25, 2015)

Well I need to find a 40t and another 48 tooth gear to get this thing up and running and I need some hardware to
Mount it also. This is beginning to get frustrating. 


Regards-Carlo


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 25, 2015)

The link you posted notes you have to buy packages of 56 you cannot buy singles. I was going to order a rod a sae841 bronze and make them myself considering a reamer is something like $12 then someone mentioned to not use a reamer. As of right now I'm stuck because I have to cut my lead screw to see if the box works. If I cut my lead acre and it doesn't work them I'm in a bad spot and I also need two gears to run it. Rolling it by hand while mounted in my
Lathe it seems super noisy like the gears are binding which doesn't surprise me considering the wear. I'm just stuck and don't know what to do. 


Regards-Carlo


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 25, 2015)

Just so you guys can hear/ see it I'll try to load a video of the problem 





Regards-Carlo


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## JimDawson (Jun 25, 2015)

You should be able to buy the bushings at your local Ace Hardware, they normally stock quite a few sizes.  I don't know why you couldn't use a reamer on the bushings.

I would rebuild the gearbox and get it working correctly first, then deal with the lead screw.


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## iron man (Jun 26, 2015)

Again that was just an example they can be bought pretty cheap just about anywhere you dont have to buy 56 of them to get them cheap Ace hardware is a good starting point as Jim mentioned. Ray


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## wa5cab (Jun 26, 2015)

Carlo,

The 40T (and one 48T) should have been with the basic change gear set.  That's the way that Atlas would have originally figured it.  But any mounting hardware and one 48T should have come with the 1500.


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## wa5cab (Jun 26, 2015)

Jim,

A reamer used in a sintered bronze bushing has a tendency, unless it is super sharp, to smear and close the pores.  That's why I mentioned using a very sharp single point boring bar earlier.


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 26, 2015)

I have one 48 tooth gear and the pdf I downloaded shows 2 48t and one 40t to run the gearbox. Right now I have two 64 two 20 and a 56 from
My original change gears. 


Regards-Carlo


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## iron man (Jun 26, 2015)

And a shaft spinning around in there is not going to smear and close the pores????


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 26, 2015)

iron man said:


> And a shaft spinning around in there is not going to smear and close the pores????


I would think so long as the shaft is good without burrs or damage it should have no reason to smear the bushing. In the case of a Reamer the design doesn't allow chips to clear as well as single point would. So instead of clearing a chip it pushes it into the pores. But I could be wrong.


Regards-Carlo


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## iron man (Jun 26, 2015)

My point is it would have to be an awful dull reamer to smear a bronze bushing almost to the point of overheating and galling the surface.

 Also a spinning shaft is no different than a dull reamer I have reamed hundreds of oilite bushings through the years and there still plenty of oil in them to work if not you can replenish the oil in them it is very easy.


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 26, 2015)

Well I found bushings in a catalog for .87 cents a piece so I may go about ordering them I was going to buy a bar stock of impregnated bronze but at $50 I think it's a bit much. Now I just have to figure out what the shafts are made of so I can buy them and make them. 


Regards-Carlo


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## schor (Jun 26, 2015)

You didn't get the the forward/reverse gear setup or the banjo with the sliding gear and other gears?

I think if you bought this as a ready to go package then you got ripped off. I would return it and look for either a whole lathe with qcgb (I got one for $25, it was trashed but has the qcgb) or another seller somewhere.

I did this quick vid for someone on another forum and it goes over the parts you need.


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 26, 2015)

This is what I have so far 
	

		
			
		

		
	





Regards-Carlo


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## schor (Jun 26, 2015)

Do you have a parts diagram for your lathe? Looks like you don't have the sliding gear and the doiuble. But not sure if yours is different than my atlas, probably not. Chjeck out vintage machinery and look in the atlas section if you cannot find your craftsman.


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## wa5cab (Jun 27, 2015)

Strtspdlx said:


> I have one 48 tooth gear and the pdf I downloaded shows 2 48t and one 40t to run the gearbox. Right now I have two 64 two 20 and a 56 from
> My original change gears.
> Regards-Carlo



Carlo,

What I meant was that the original lathe when shipped new from the factory would have had one 40T and one 48T in the change gear set.  The 1500 kit would have come with the second 48T, which the seller should have supplied.

Steve S,

All of the necessary manuals (except the 1500 Operator's Manual which I haven't found anywhere on the Internet) are in our Downloads.

The sliding gear is the 40T being discussed.  And the 2nd 48T likewise.


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 27, 2015)

schor said:


> Do you have a parts diagram for your lathe? Looks like you don't have the sliding gear and the doiuble. But not sure if yours is different than my atlas, probably not. Chjeck out vintage machinery and look in the atlas section if you cannot find your craftsman.


I have a diagram for the gearbox and yes I am missing the sliding gear and one of the 48t double gears. Aside from that I'm all ready to run. I shortened the lead screw and stuck it in the box and too my surprise it's much more quiet by hand. I think if I replace the bushings and shafts it'll be fine. I had figured I'd need to do that on any box I would've bought used I had just hoped I could get some run time out of it before I did. 


Regards-Carlo


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## kd4gij (Jun 27, 2015)

iron man said:


> My point is it would have to be an awful dull reamer to smear a bronze bushing almost to the point of overheating and galling the surface.


 

 Even a sharp reamer will clog up the poors of oillight bushing. Manufacturer's do not recommend reaming or lapping them. That said I got all of the bushings for my QCGB at Ace Hardwhear and the fit fine as is.


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 27, 2015)

kd4gij said:


> Even a sharp reamer will clog up the poors of oillight bushing. Manufacturer's do not recommend reaming or lapping them. That said I got all of the bushings for my QCGB at Ace Hardwhear and the fit fine as is.



Everyone keeps saying ace hardware has them. The only ace hardware I knew of closed about 5 years ago. I'm awaiting a response to see if I can get the two gears I need. Once I get them I'll see how it runs. Right now I don't have the time or funds to allow me to rebuild it. Once I finish the jobs I have I will. I'll start making the shafts soon and get the bushings I also have to revise several of the gears but that'll have to wait hopefully I can get it to work as is. 


Regards-Carlo


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## kd4gij (Jun 27, 2015)

I still have an Ace near me. But yes a lot of them did close. True Value or any hardware store should carry them. Some auto parts stores still carry a selection. But if you can't find them locally, McMasters has them also. Ebay should have the gears.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-AT...251?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5676c4956b

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-AT...816?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5676c497a0


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 28, 2015)

I am watching them in eBay. I'm waiting for a member of this site to respond to see if he has them. I'm
Hoping he does as everything I've got from
Him so far has been top notch. 


Regards-Carlo


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## Wierd Harold (Jun 28, 2015)

Strtspdlx said:


> I am watching them in eBay. I'm waiting for a member of this site to respond to see if he has them. I'm
> Hoping he does as everything I've got from
> Him so far has been top notch.
> 
> ...


I got the parts for my rebuild at McMaster-Carr. Here is a copy of what I got to do mine.
View media item 94787


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## Strtspdlx (Jun 29, 2015)

If anyone has a 40 tooth and a 48 tooth gear they'd be willing to part with please let me know. My parts source hasn't been available and I'm getting anxious to use this. 


Regards-Carlo


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## spongerich (Jun 29, 2015)

PM headed your way.

I have the 48 but not the 40.

I can also send a 52 and a 32.  Either will get you making chips, though at the wrong ratio, so no threading for you until you can locate the others, but you can most definitely make bushings and shafts while you wait.


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## Rob (Jun 30, 2015)

Both the 40t and the 48t are idler gears and do not affect the ratio. The inside 48t is only used for course threads when the 40t is slide to the in position. If you put a spacer or a different tooth on the inside and any gear that would fit on the outside you can use it.  You would have issues trying to slide to the in position but that is only used for 7.5tpi or courser.


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## itsme_Bernie (Jun 30, 2015)

If you want, PM me and I can send you a link to someone who may have parts for you.

Bernie


Bernie


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## Rob (Jul 1, 2015)

You can also use Boston Gears.  They make change gears that you can use in the Atlas gear train.  They are steel & cast iron.  They are a direct replacement for the Atlas gears.

http://www.amazon.com/Boston-Gear-C...=1435729026&sr=8-1&keywords=boston+gears+gb40

http://www.amazon.com/Boston-Gear-C...pebp=1435729077813&perid=1H2HBRRDFSDPM6B741BD

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=boston+gears+gb


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