# Barrel vise/action wrench



## cdhknives (Oct 24, 2020)

Working strictly off pictures and a Rem 700 action in hand, I pulled out some blocks of aluminum and started making swarf...After cutting a pair of 1x3x3" blocks on the bandsaw and drilling then boring them, the real fun begins.  The old mismatched 4 jaw chuck takes some extra care too...  I am not looking for professional tools, just soemthing I can use a dozen times over the rest of my life to rebarrel a rifle or ten.  Suggestions welcome!

















I still need a handle, or a really big pipe wrench, but the fun parts are done.  As much as I look at it, I can't figure out how to get a hole in the action wrench to line up the recoil lug.  I could cut a groove easy enough but a pin in the action bolt hole would help align everything.  I need a mill...even a decent benchtop mill would handle this kind of work.


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## pontiac428 (Oct 24, 2020)

I have an 18" handle that can accommodate a cheater pipe.  Some barrels take significant effort to break loose.  Enough to be scary.  I'm interested to know how the aluminum works out for you.


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## Tozguy (Oct 25, 2020)

Off to a good start, nice work. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Are you planning on using custom aluminum bushings in the barrel vise for different size barrels?
For removing factory barrels it is impossible to over-build a barrel vise or action wrench.


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## mickri (Oct 25, 2020)

This might help you out.  Gunsmith Rod Henrickson who goes by Speerchucker on many forums has posted his action wrench with instructions.


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## cdhknives (Oct 25, 2020)

My problem is the lack of a mill.  All the ways I can figure to cut the lug slot require a mill.  I even thought about a slot cutter using my 1-2-3 block bridge like I set up for the drilling but getting the alignment and precision is going to be...daunting.


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## cdhknives (Oct 25, 2020)

pontiac428 said:


> I have an 18" handle that can accommodate a cheater pipe.  Some barrels take significant effort to break loose.  Enough to be scary.  I'm interested to know how the aluminum works out for you.



Me too.  My light lathe makes it tough to work with steel in large sizes so I built it beefy with aluminum.  It doesn't have to last long, just enough to do a couple...


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## Jim F (Oct 25, 2020)

A spindle thread protector would be a good idea,also.


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## mickri (Oct 25, 2020)

Even with a mill you would first drill out most of the slot.  This is not real precision work.  That is why Rod has two set screws to tighten against the recoil lug.  Let's get a little creative here.  Your cross slide appears to have T slots.  Clamp the bottom piece to the cross slide using whatever you have to get it to the correct height and cut the slot with an end mill in the spindle by moving the the cross slide.

Or you could first cut the edges with a hacksaw, drill out as much of the slot as you can and use a file to clean up the slot.   Might take awhile with the file.  You could also use a high speed grinder to clean up the slot before finishing with a file.

There are probably other ways to do this too.  Just need to think outside of the box.


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## Tozguy (Oct 25, 2020)

Why cut a slot at all. Keep the full strength of the part.
Just a couple of cap screws or pins in the side of the part would do the job of locating and holding the recoil lug.


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## mickri (Oct 25, 2020)

Pins or cap screws could possible work too.  Though it is my understanding that the recoil lugs on Rem 700's are different sizes depending on caliber.  Someone with more knowledge than I have should chime in here with the correct info.


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## cdhknives (Oct 25, 2020)

We are thinking along similar lines.  I had thought about pins.  In thinking through the milling operation I can't see it being made in 1 pass, and the big problem with the t-slot slide is once you have your workpiece shimmed, trimmed, and ready to go, moving it to make another pass in the Z direction is that much harder to keep aligned.  

Then again, I am the rookie here, I was operating under the impression that locating the recoil lug was a relatively high precision operation.  Is that not correct?


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## mickri (Oct 25, 2020)

Read the text attachment I posted.  Rod's slot is wider than the recoil lug and there is a set screw on each side to keep the recoil lug held in place.  You can see one of the set screws in the picture that I posed of his action wrench.  There is another set screw on the other side.


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## Tozguy (Oct 25, 2020)

Yes I would say that locating the recoil lug with respect to the front action screw requires precision.
Another approach is to pin the lug and action as discussed here:  https://forum.accurateshooter.com/t...thod-for-pinning-a-recoil-lug-in-700.3931681/


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## cdhknives (Nov 3, 2020)

Well, it worked.  I 'missed' the action bolt hole and ended up cutting a groove.  That alone tells me if I had to do it again I would use at least 1.5" thick stock.  After the picture was taken I went back and used my milling attachment for my lathe to cut a shallow notch for the lug.  It helped a lot with reassembly.


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## 682bear (Nov 4, 2020)

This is an action wrench that my dad made for a Mauser action...




This was made before he owned his mill. He did all the work with a drill press, bandsaw, and hand file. It has been used successfully to rebarrel 2 rifles so far.

-Bear


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