# Needing a little help with a South Bend 9A......



## giannilibrizzi (Jul 17, 2014)

Hey guys!

Bringing home a South Bend 9A tomorrow morning..... It's in great shape, and will clean up pretty good! Also comes with a bunch of tools / accessories so that's a plus! I will not have to rebuild anything as far as I know, just a teardown (which I am doing anyways to get it home) and a cleanup / lube during reassembly. 

The only thing that had me bummed out is the backlash in the crossfeed screw.... I know it it probably either the screw, the nut, or both that are causing this, so I have been looking for solutions....

Fount this online, but I seem tho have been unable to reach the guy....the email bounce whenever I send him a message.... Anybody knows the guy? Anybody knows how I could reach him?





http://www.machine--tools.com/By-Lo...light-10-south-bend-lathe-cross-feed-nut.ASPX


Also, in order to adjust the tailstock the way it should, I am going to need an alignment test bar. If anyone has one that they want to get rid of, I'm your man! If not, if someone is able / willing to make me one, I would sure appreciate it and I am willing, of course, to pay upfront via Paypal!







Thanks for the help..... keep up the good work!

Gianni


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## GK1918 (Jul 17, 2014)

Nice Gianni,  wise choice.  You may find more wear on the outer nut call it a snount rather than the brass nut & screw.  I myself have to keep
prying the dial then tighten the set screw.  That can be shimmed (on the outside) by taking of the handle, dial and the nut snout I call it and add
washers.  I would use fibre or that milk bottle stuff, or brass  washers.  I bet thats a lot of your problem.  I know its mine - again when I pry
my dial between the ball crank & and dial, I have very little backlash.   And as far as a test bar, just go old school with any piece of round maybe
2 foot long and turn two donuts out of aluminum and press or glue them on each side , oh the bar is center drilled first to put between centers
driven with a dog.  then turn both dounuts and then measure the two with an indicator.  Easy to make, can be used over and over.  So I think
dont get mislead by the realm of it has to be a dead on expensive test bar.  Not so, doesnt matter even if its way out of round,  It will be when
both dounuts  gets turned.  I hope I explained this well.  Suppose the 'donuts' could even be miced.  (if one is smaller than the other)
no brainer= tailstock is out.  Made out of free scrap (just stamp Starrett on it) .lol
sam


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## jocat54 (Jul 17, 2014)

Here are a couple of links for a nut.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/191224883208?lpid=82

 http://www.****************/proddetail.php?prod=nutsb9


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## giannilibrizzi (Jul 17, 2014)

GK1918 said:


> That can be shimmed (on the outside) by taking of the handle, dial and the nut snout I call it and add
> washers.  I would use fibre or that milk bottle stuff, or brass  washers.  I bet thats a lot of your problem.  I know its mine - again when I pry
> my dial between the ball crank & and dial, I have very little backlash.
> sam



Thanks for that, will look into it! If you happen to have a picture of what you mean, I'll surelly appreciate it!

As for the test bar, I'll see what can be done.... The only problem is that I'll shortly (tomorrow) have a lathe home, that I will take apart and clean before reassembly. So I will not be able to turn a test bar before the entire setup is done, and that includes tailstock alignment!

That´s why I was asking for the generosity of a member who had a setup already, who could make one for me....of course I would pay for it!

Gianni


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## Halligan142 (Jul 17, 2014)

Quick and easy test bar.  Also use a razor blade pinched between a dead center in the tailstock and a dead center in the headstock to get your initial alignment.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Tkbt6VJpIM

Here's one of the two collar test bars.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyz9qFYmpUI

and here's the actual alignment adjustment.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmMmM8B40bs


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