# Old heavy 9 needs work on compound and cross slide



## skipd1 (Apr 1, 2013)

I was trying to cut some threads on my Model O heavy 9 today and everything seemed to just look terrible! I have so much slack in my compound  that I can literally move
it in place and its out at least a 32nd of an inch. There is some play in the nut and screw, but most is between the compound graduated collar and the compound bushing rest. Is this something you just shim or is that just patching the symptom? I finally decided to take them completely apart and see what can be done to tighten up the old girl. I really hate the micro small graduated collars on both the compound and the Cross feed along with the little handles, they don't lock down well and are extremely difficult to read.  I would like to purchase new compound and cross feed nuts and larger graduated collars and handles, but I suspect the change to larger graduated collars and handles require different cross feed and compound screws. On top of that this is an old lathe, built in 1930 and I have been told that many of the parts are common to the heavy 10, so I really don't know how to get the right parts. I don't have a second lathe to make parts, so I am going to have to buy what ever components I need. That's okay. I really love this old lathe and with the exception of these problems, it is in extremely good condition.
Do any of you have access or know of someone who has or makes these parts? I can post lots of pictures of the parts I have, dimensions etc for whoever needs them.
Thanks.

Regards

Skipd1


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## Chuck K (Apr 1, 2013)

Skip, I have bought lathes that were loose like that on both the cross slide and the compound.  Have you tried adjusting the nuts in front of and behind the handle?  It seems like a simple thing but I've seen it overlooked on a lot of lathes.  Also there can be a sloppy fit between the nut and the casting on the compound.  If it's in the dial/handle maybe you can try a spacer or washer to tighten it up.  Good luck.

Chuck


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## Ulma Doctor (Apr 2, 2013)

if i got what you are saying Skipd1, you have a lot of backlash in the brass compound nut and the screw..
take a close look at the acme threads near the end on both sides and then in the middle, are the threads still square in the middle of the compound screw? if so you may need a screw and brass nut if they are both worn out:banghead:


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## GK1918 (Apr 2, 2013)

Although my quick fix is really just a bandade, I just cut some washers from that milk container plastic stuff
and shimmed up the graduated coller.  That got rid of 95% of the play.  Somewhere, someone did an
article on the correct fix, remachining the snout thats usually what is worn.


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## skipd1 (Apr 2, 2013)

Chuck K said:


> Skip, I have bought lathes that were loose like that on both the cross slide and the compound.  Have you tried adjusting the nuts in front of and behind the handle?  It seems like a simple thing but I've seen it overlooked on a lot of lathes.  Also there can be a sloppy fit between the nut and the casting on the compound.  If it's in the dial/handle maybe you can try a spacer or washer to tighten it up.  Good luck.
> 
> Chuck



Chuck-
There isn't a nut on the end of the compound or cross feed handles, they are pinned on the shift with 1/8" pins. I suppose if the nuts are okay that I will have to design some shims between the collar and the dial

Skipdi


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## skipd1 (Apr 2, 2013)

Ulma Doctor said:


> if i got what you are saying Skipd1, you have a lot of backlash in the brass compound nut and the screw..
> take a close look at the acme threads near the end on both sides and then in the middle, are the threads still square in the middle of the compound screw? if so you may need a screw and brass nut if they are both worn out:banghead:



I rechecked both the cross feed and compound screws and their nuts and they are in good shape with no play or appreciable wear. Also the pin has a nice tight fit on the compound. I guess I will just try to make some shims between the collars and handles on both screws and call it good. I wonder if they make real small, thin thrust washers I could use instead of making a shim.  
I like the idea of using a caliper or DRO on the compound. Thanks

skipd1


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## Chuck K (Apr 2, 2013)

skipd1 said:


> Chuck-
> There isn't a nut on the end of the compound or cross feed handles, they are pinned on the shift with 1/8" pins. I suppose if the nuts are okay that I will have to design some shims between the collar and the dial
> 
> Skipdi



Well that kind of blows...Sounds like shims are the route to go. As long as you get the right amount of end play and keep it oiled it should work smooth.

Chuck


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## skipd1 (Apr 3, 2013)

Chuck K said:


> Well that kind of blows...Sounds like shims are the route to go. As long as you get the right amount of end play and keep it oiled it should work smooth.
> 
> Chuck



Here is some pics of my compound with a new .008 brass shim that keeps most of the play out and still allows the graduated collar to spin. Removing the pin was a major pain to do without damaging the shaft or handle.
The last pic is of the cross feed components as well.


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## Chuck K (Apr 4, 2013)

Skip, Looks like that should work.  Now you need to make a small thumb screw to replace the set screw in the dial.  I hate fumbling around for an allan wrench when I want to change the position of the dial.

Chuck


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## skipd1 (Apr 4, 2013)

Chuck K said:


> Skip, Looks like that should work.  Now you need to make a small thumb screw to replace the set screw in the dial.  I hate fumbling around for an allan wrench when I want to change the position of the dial.
> 
> Chuck



Chuck-
That's a great idea, thanks

skipd1


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