# Tube notcher build



## JOSHUAZ2

after looking at all the notchers on the market I decided to build one that incorporated features from a few and some of my own. all the adjustments take the same allen wrench.


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## Old Iron

Nice you must do a lot of tubing,When I was working I built a lot of hand rails a sharp torch and a grinder did the job for me.

Paul


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## JOSHUAZ2

i have done a lot of hand rails also and never used a notcher. lately i have been doing a few cage repairs and tube bumper work and this has made it so much faster.


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## Chrispy

Did you actually cut through that hunk of plate with a hand hacksaw? hew:


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## Chrispy

I always wanted to buy/build one of these notchers. In researching them I actually found a simpler way to notch pipe using either a chop saw or bandsaw and 2 straight cuts.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/shop-tools/456800-chop-saw-notching-101-pictures.html
Chrispy


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## ScubaSteve

Wow, that thing is stout! I really like the build....but what are the holes further down for? Is it to reduce weight? It seems the holes towards the top would be all you need...unless there's some other way to clamp the tubing?


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## JOSHUAZ2

the object of all the hole is to be able to clamp tube anywhere on the plate to facilitate notching in bends.


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## JOSHUAZ2

Chrispy said:


> Did you actually cut through that hunk of plate with a hand hacksaw? hew:



No. That was there for a joke/fishing. got a bite.:winner:


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## Chrispy

Touché


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## twraska

Nice!!!!  If you want to try and improve it you can give the old one to me! LOL

On a serious note, what hole saw are you using?  How is it holding up to the odd feed angles?


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## wpala

How did you scribed that scale on the side can you share your technique


Thanks in advance 
Paul




JOSHUAZ2 said:


> after looking at all the notchers on the market I decided to build one that incorporated features from a few and some of my own. all the adjustments take the same allen wrench.


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## ScubaSteve

Man, that's a big chunk of steel....every time I look at it I think about what a PITA it must have been to drill.


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## JOSHUAZ2

wpala said:


> How did you scribed that scale on the side can you share your technique
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance
> Paul



I take a broken end mill (I have a lot of them) and sharpen them to a point then grind one side of the tip away. Place the bit in the mill and lower it down to .003-.005 lower than the surface. then justmove the table to drag the point along the surface the desired lenth. it will peel up a perfect looking burr if the surface is flat. lightly sand the surface after to get rid of the sharp point sticking up.

Roy


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## JOSHUAZ2

twraska said:


> Nice!!!!  If you want to try and improve it you can give the old one to me! LOL
> 
> On a serious note, what hole saw are you using?  How is it holding up to the odd feed angles?



I use lenox saws from the big box stores. They hold up well as long as you dont feed them to fast. If you start them into the cut too fast they can grab and break teeth. I have tried sterrett and other expensive saws and they have proven to be NO better.

Roy


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## JOSHUAZ2

ScubaSteve said:


> Man, that's a big chunk of steel....every time I look at it I think about what a PITA it must have been to drill.



what was a pita was all the drill swarf. every hole made what appeared to be 1 cubic foot of chips.

Roy


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## ScubaSteve

JOSHUAZ2 said:


> I use lenox saws from the big box stores. They hold up well as long as you dont feed them to fast. If you start them into the cut too fast they can grab and break teeth. I have tried sterrett and other expensive saws and they have proven to be NO better.
> 
> Roy



That's good info...thanks for that. Even the guy who does the JD2 tube notcher demo video says the same thing.


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## JOSHUAZ2

yes you could and it would be a lot easier to machine. i had the steel in my scrap pile so thats what i used.


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## Tim655

Nice, How much time do you have in it? Do you have drawings? Thanks


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## JOSHUAZ2

I would say 10 - 15 hours working slowly and designing as I went. I have no prints but could make some up if you are interested.


Roy


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## Tony Wells

Drawings would be a nice addition to our library, if you are willing to share. Of course, they would remain your property. I'm sure several here would love to build one like yours. Looks very good.

I used to do a lot of that in 316/316L tubing to spoil our TIG guy, but had a spare Enco clone, so just kind of left it set up for it. We didn't find any of the HSS saws that held up well in the stainless, but Starrett offers a carbide tipped saw that is very durable. Not sure I'd want to try it in a hand-held notcher though. Pretty expensive.


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## corey607

Good job Roy. Now you can build a titanium frame for your tard.


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## chuckorlando

Looks like you were inspired by the jd2 beast?.?. Thats awesome right there. I might have to do something like that at some point. I got a pretty nice notcher but not the "Beast" nice. At the time the cost for one was more then I was willing to pay. Cheaper to not notch on a bend. But what you got there is pretty sweat. I also use lenox. I mostly notch 1.25x.095 dom tube and they do fine and last a good while doing it.


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## charger

can you give  the dimentions?


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## jpfabricator

subscribed

Sent from somwhere in east Texas by Jake!


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## Silverbullet

Nice job, takes a crane to move it I bet. Do you know how much it ways? I'm betting in the 120 lb range. Now another tool to be built. Thanks looks like it works well.


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## TOOLMASTER

I made a jig for the lathe at a shop about 30 years ago...used a roughing mill bit in the chuck and a tube holder on the carriage


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