# 1958 Bridgeport Series 1 J Rebuild



## RandyM

At the encouragement of others on this site I am going to expose my lack of knowledge and goofy ideas on the refurbishing of my 1958 Bridgeport series 1J. I am not completely green to machine tools but lack experience. I am very adept to tinkering with mechanical things. So here is my story. I got lucky last month and purchased my mill off of Craig's list. Probably over paid for it considering what I have learned since ($3500). I really like the fact it is single phase 110v. Once I got it home and off the trailer using my 2 post auto lift. I proceeded to move it into position by using several pieces of Â¾ inch conduit under the base and just rolled it into position. I already knew the turret and ram were rusted solid to each other before the purchase. Here are the photos of day one.







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## RandyM

So now as I really start to look at it the machine is really quite dirty with 50 year old oil that has turned to varnish, and probably over a coating of light rust to boot. The way wipers are completely wore out. And chips are in places they shouldnâ€™t be. Someone sure enough injected grease into the oil passages, time for a rebuild. I proceeded to purchase the â€œRenovating the Bridgeport Series 1 J Milling Machineâ€ manual from Industrial Control and Automation. http://icai-online.com/ This is a great book! I highly recommend this manual to anyone wanting to know the intimate details of their machine. In my opinion it is perfectly done. It walks you through everything about this machine. Then when you have friends come and inspect they interject their 2 cents, â€œYou really should put a coat of paint on that thing.â€ Ok, maybe you have a point, now is the time to do that. Once I get it back together the last thing I want to do is tear it apart again.

At this point I made the decision to do this rebuild in two steps, the basic machine and the spindle head. Trying to keep track of all the parts in their various groups was going to be hard enough. I am starting with the basic machine as I am planning on re-attaching the spindle head to aid in the evaluation and disassembly. Here are the photos of the basic machine disassembly.


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## RandyM

The turret and ram required two good weeks of soaking in PB Blaster, a little sledge hammer persuasion (with a block of wood), and port-a-power ram. But I got her. The cause of this mess, mice had built a very cozy home in the ram and well, you know.


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## Largo

Oh, man - a freakin' car lift! I'm lucky if I can get my old Horrible Fright cherry picker to work!

I'm jealous, and you sir - SUCK!

Brian
Taxachusetts


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## RandyM

Largo link=topic=1793.msg11184#msg11184 date=1303249156 said:
			
		

> Oh, man - a freakin' car lift! I'm lucky if I can get my old Horrible Fright cherry picker to work!
> 
> I'm jealous, and you sir - SUCK!
> 
> Brian
> Taxachusetts



LOL. Sorry, didn't mean to distract you. LOL. Maybe this will help, just try and stay focused on the topic.  Just trying to help. Taxachusetts? I think we are all in the same boat there.


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## oscer

Hey Randy I like your hat ! My machine shop is very small and has to share space with JD 4110 and implements. I just went through part of what of what you are doing. I didn't strip everthing down to bare metal before painting. only stripped the ram and turret they were flaking pretty badly. The rest of the mill got a good cleaning and two coats of Massey Ferguson grey. I have a set of feednuts for the X and Y axises, they are both shot . If you are going to need a set they are surprisingly cheap, only $33 per set From Gosinger 866-385-2798. You probably have dealers alot closer though. the other thing I found was that the bottom of the saddle is scoffed up some. I don't know how this is going to affect the operation of the mill but it does bum me out some cause everything else seems to be in very good shape.I'm waiting for the paint to dry so I can put it back together and try it out.
How is the bottom of the saddle on your mill? I supose this is a common wear spot.
Good luck with your rebuild.


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## RandyM

Oscer,
I am not stripping all the paint either. Just some sanding and then two coats with a foam roller. It is working out pretty well. You are correct, the bottom of my saddle has the most wear, but not bad. The screw nuts are in good shape, except that I damaged one taking it apart, socker just did not want to come out of the bracket. I am pretty sure I can salvage it.

Us JD guys need to stick together, come join us on DeereTalk.com, link in my sig.


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## oscer

Thanks for the link Randy, I just checked it out and registered. I put the bridgeport back together yesterday, when I was finished I had 2 ,1/4-20x 1/2" round head screws left over :-\ I don't remember where they came from. they wre in the bin with the saddle parts so they must go on the saddle somewhere. Where there little clips that hold the oil lines out of the way of the feed nut assembly? I don't have any parts left over to attach with these screws so I'm not sure where they came from.
My feed nuts pushed out of the casting with very little help from the arbor press, the new ones are slightly different, they are 2 peice set to adjust backlash and you have to drill the oil holes and turn the groove for the oil to get down to the lower nut. I should take more pic. but I never think of it when I'm working.


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## RandyM

oscer link=topic=1793.msg11794#msg11794 date=1303658980 said:
			
		

> Thanks for the link Randy, I just checked it out and registered. I put the bridgeport back together yesterday, when I was finished I had 2 ,1/4-20x 1/2" round head screws left over :-\ I don't remember where they came from. they wre in the bin with the saddle parts so they must go on the saddle somewhere. Where there little clips that hold the oil lines out of the way of the feed nut assembly? I don't have any parts left over to attach with these screws so I'm not sure where they came from.
> My feed nuts pushed out of the casting with very little help from the arbor press, the new ones are slightly different, they are 2 peice set to adjust backlash and you have to drill the oil holes and turn the groove for the oil to get down to the lower nut. I should take more pic. but I never think of it when I'm working.



Boy, extra parts, not sure I would like that. I don't think I can help you with that one. My machine does not have remote oiling, so no clips or bolts. I too have a hard time remembering to take pictures, seems get in my way of progress.


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## RandyM

*Knee Removal*

More disassembly, here is the knee coming apart.


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## RandyM

*ReAssembly Begins*

Parts are clean and painted. Time to put them back together. Here is the start.


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## RandyM

I decided to tap the base 3/4-10 for leveling bolts. I used threaded rod topped by a polished stainless steel acorn nut. I roll pinned them together. I am using a jam nut to lock them in place. The other photos are of the table bottom and the knee nut and assembly.


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## oscer

Nice job Randy, what did you do to the bottom end of the threaded rods if any thing? I havn't leveled mine yet.


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## RandyM

oscer link=topic=1793.msg11897#msg11897 date=1303741263 said:
			
		

> Nice job Randy, what did you do to the bottom end of the threaded rods if any thing? I havn't leveled mine yet.



Thanks Oscer, the threaded rod is just cut off square with generous chamfers for now. I may add feet later. They work out really well, no machine wobble and everything is all level. I also like the fact that the base is up (1 inch) off the floor for cleaning and moisture.


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## Kennyd

Very nice job Randy! Love the pictures...I hope mine looks as good when I get it home!


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## Kennyd

oscer link=topic=1793.msg11550#msg11550 date=1303498257 said:
			
		

> Hey Randy I like your hat ! My machine shop is very small and has to share space with JD 4110 and implements. I just went through part of what of what you are doing. I didn't strip everthing down to bare metal before painting. only stripped the ram and turret they were flaking pretty badly. The rest of the mill got a good cleaning and two coats of Massey Ferguson grey. I have a set of feednuts for the X and Y axises, they are both shot . If you are going to need a set they are surprisingly cheap, only $33 per set From Gosinger 866-385-2798. You probably have dealers alot closer though. the other thing I found was that the bottom of the saddle is scoffed up some. I don't know how this is going to affect the operation of the mill but it does bum me out some cause everything else seems to be in very good shape.I'm waiting for the paint to dry so I can put it back together and try it out.
> How is the bottom of the saddle on your mill? I supose this is a common wear spot.
> Good luck with your rebuild.



Oscar-I have a 4110 also 

Randy invited me here from the DT site-please post up some pictures of your tractor over there as well


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## RandyM

*It is going together*

Sorry for the delay Guys. You know how life can get in the way sometimes. The main machine is getting very close now, basically I only have the ram left to paint. I decided to go with a two tone paint scheme. The blue is powder coated by myself. The raised letters are matched paint done with a foam trim roller. I also have made a couple of upgrades, a power table feed, and a metal shelf in place of the fiber board. Still chuggin' along. Enjoy!


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## Tony Wells

Very nice, Randy. I wish all the 58's were as nice as yours turned out.


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## RandyM

Thanks Tony, it is killing me to not be making chips. I have been wanting a mill for a long time and I guess a few more weeks won't hurt anything. And I am hoping that once this is finished it should be minimal maintenance from here on out.


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## RandyM

Well Gang, I am still at it, slow but sure. Here are some update photos of the spindle and drive head. I want to get the drive as far along as possible and then I will tear into the spindle.


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## RandyM

I haven't given up yet, still hanging in there Gang. The gear and belt housings are all back together and ready for mounting. The motor is rebuilt, new bearings, brushes, commutator, barrel switch, cord, and a fresh coat of paint. The spindle housing is fully disassembled. Here are the latest photos.


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## Tony Wells

Looking really nice, Randy. New ones weren't assembled with such care.


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## RandyM

Mayhem link=topic=1793.msg21308#msg21308 date=1312805179 said:
			
		

> Excellent job Randy. I'd love an old Bridgeport or Cincinnati but they are rare here. What I discovered when rebuilding my lathe is that you get a much better overview of how they work than when buying a new one. I'm really looking forward to seeing your progress.



Thank you Guys. 

Mayhem, up until this poor economy thing these machines were rare around here as well. But, they are really showing up a lot more lately.

I completely agree, I am finding that I am learning all the little things that make this machine work. It is a great experience but, is killing me to not being able to make chips.


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## brucer

randym, 

your rebuild looks to be going well, i actually like that color of blue your using, kind of grows on you after you look at it a little...

i'm fixing my clutch cam pins at the moment, i have 2 good cam pin holes and i'm going to go ahead and drill and tap 2 more 1/4-32 holes so i have a spare set when i put it back together...

my question is how tight did you tighten the bearing retainer nut, and lock nut.. i copied your photo from above and put some red arrows on it so you know what i'm talking about.. any help would be great.


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## RandyM

brucer link=topic=1793.msg21716#msg21716 date=1313031129 said:
			
		

> randym,
> 
> my question is how tight did you tighten the bearing retainer nut, and lock nut.. i copied your photo from above and put some red arrows on it so you know what i'm talking about.. any help would be great.



Brucer, I really didn't put a torque wrench on it. I just snugged her down real good. I really don't think this machine was ever touched maintenance wise. So with that being said, everything was still factory tight. I found nothing really came apart really hard, except the stuff that was rusted together (turret and ram). Sorry I took so long to get back to ya. Any particular reason you are asking?


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## brucer

i rebuilt the top housing and i used new retainer nuts.. 

i ended up just snugging them down tight and running it.. it seems fine..


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## Brett Zahler

That's looking real nice! I just got a 58 also ;0 just going thru it and making every thing work as it should before I paint it


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## miguel aprendiz

que buen trabajo , me gusto mucho todo lo que hiciste , la maquina quedo muy bien , que precio tiene ? gracias


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## Tony Wells

Randy, he says that's good work, and he likes what you've done. He's curious about how much you've spent on the project.


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## RandyM

Tony Wells link=topic=1793.msg23823#msg23823 date=1314751419 said:
			
		

> Randy, he says that's good work, and he likes what you've done. He's curious about how much you've spent on the project.



Thanks Tony and Miguel.

Well, to be honest, I really am not keeping track. Paid to much for the machine to start $3500. I am replacing all the bearings and stuff that wears out. I added a power feed to the x-axis. Had the motor rebuilt and then all the little things that I broke taking it a part. My guess, and I am guessing probably another $2000. Yup, adding up.


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## Tony Wells

That may seem to be a lot, but have you priced a new Bridgeport?


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## brucer

Tony Wells link=topic=1793.msg23979#msg23979 date=1314841558 said:
			
		

> That may seem to be a lot, but have you priced a new Bridgeport?



whats a new bare bones bridgeport go for now around $15,000?


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## boan

Really nice job. The pictures are great, and I love the Ford Tractor Blue from a Deere guy.

Kubota Orange guy. http://hobby-machinist.com/Smileys/Smiiliis/lol023.gif


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## RandyM

boan link=topic=1793.msg24888#msg24888 date=1315432766 said:
			
		

> Really nice job. The pictures are great, and I love the Ford Tractor Blue from a Deere guy.
> 
> Kubota Orange guy. http://hobby-machinist.com/Smileys/Smiiliis/lol023.gif



@#@#@#@ Ford Blue, your funny.


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## brucer

now your going to have to tear it down and repaint it ##


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## Hamstn

brucer link=topic=1793.msg25200#msg25200 date=1315637437 said:
			
		

> now your going to have to tear it down and repaint it ##


Yes and in CIH Red

Crops are green and tractors are red!


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## David

Hi Randy,
Your rebuild looks great! I am in the middle of doing the same on my 1958 BP. 
Your pictures are inspiring!

David


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## joesmith

Will be watching your progress closely. I have a similiar Series 1 that is working ok for my simple uses. It 
has obviously been reconditioned at least once as the x and y gibs have been shimmed but both work smoothly with little evidence of severe wear spots. Some day I will make the plunge.  I also have the book. Connelly's Machine Tool Reconditioning also has a lot of info. Good luck and keep the great pics coming. Joe


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## RandyM

Well Gang,
I made it, it's done. Well, the resto is finished, now come the mods. Sorry it took so long, but it was a busy summer. I am really pleased at how well it all turned out. This is one smooth running machine. Here are the photos to prove it. Enjoy.


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## Kennyd

That's sick man, just plain sick #@clap2@&amp;


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## brucer

nice job randy, thats one of the best looking bridgeports i've ever seen..


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## Fishchips

Randy, WOW nice work on the rebuild. I have toooooo many projects started that need to be completed before the boss will approve a mill purchase. ::thumbzup::


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## miguel aprendiz

es una belleza , te felicito por los detalles , trabaja uno asi mas a gusto , realmente te quedo muy bien , estare pendiente de lo que publiques saludos desde Mexico


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## ScrapMetal

Wow, that is really, really sharp. 

Nice work.

-Ron


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## TAWP Tool

Wow! Randy, very nice job! You sir have set the bar very high.

I am smack dab in the middle of doing the very same thing to my 1967 J head. It's a look-alike cousin to yours. The only difference is that mine has the factory Tibon chromed ways and fortunately they all show very little wear.

I have saved all of your pics in "Randys BP" folder to provide a little inspiration during my build (ok, also to help show me where everything goes - lol).

How's she running?

Guy in Sacramento


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## ML_Woy

RandyM said:


> Well Gang,
> I made it, it's done. Well, the resto is finished, now come the mods. Sorry it took so long, but it was a busy summer. I am really pleased at how well it all turned out. This is one smooth running machine. Here are the photos to prove it. Enjoy.



Fantastic job on the restoration. Tell me how you polished the table and all of the dials and non painted surfaces. What did you use. I have a project about to begin and would like to go to school on your success.


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## ScubaSteve

DaaaammmMMMnnnNNnnn.....that's nice. I like the fact that you went ahead and added your own flair to it. I like machinery gray as much as the next guy, but your choice of colors really sets it apart, and it's still classy. 

Your shop seems very similar to the gent who has a beautifully restored South Bend 16" with the U-Joint legs.....that wouldn't happen to be you? If so, great job on that one too! Both machines are desktop backgrounds on my PC.


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## TAWP Tool

Are you talking about this SB16? It belongs to Wyatt in MO.








ScubaSteve said:


> DaaaammmMMMnnnNNnnn.....that's nice. I like the fact that you went ahead and added your own flair to it. I like machinery gray as much as the next guy, but your choice of colors really sets it apart, and it's still classy.
> 
> Your shop seems very similar to the gent who has a beautifully restored South Bend 16" with the U-Joint legs.....that wouldn't happen to be you? If so, great job on that one too! Both machines are desktop backgrounds on my PC.


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## ScubaSteve

That's the one....guess it was a different guy, sorry  Still, both are very nice machines


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## TAWP Tool

You're right, they are both gorgeous. If you need a larger photo of the SB16 for your desk top, I have some. 

This is a great thread! I am in the middle of doing the same to my 1967 J head. The photos, along with the rebuild manual, are proving to be very handy to have around. Thanks for documenting your journey!

Guy
Go Navy!



ScubaSteve said:


> That's the one....guess it was a different guy, sorry  Still, both are very nice machines


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## Mrcnaz

Been watching for a long time, guess its time to ask a question,

Did you ever have time,  or the opprtunity to weight the thing?:nuts:

I have a 1966 bridgeport myself and have never figured out the actual weight?


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## Mrcnaz

Buy the way, that is a great job of restoration, go make chips!!

I was having a time with amplified noise coming from the mill when I placed it on an epoxy over concrete floor, the noise seemed to increase due to the

gloss epoxy floor, so I went down to the local retail sports equipment outlet and purchased 4 hocky pucks and placed under each corner with 1/4 curcular metal plates to match.

The top plate is welded to about the same adjustments you have (not as nice though) for leveling.


Runs very, very quiet.


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## RandyM

WOW! gang aren't you all so kind with your praises. I THANK YOU ALL! 



ML_Woy said:


> Tell me how you polished the table and all of the dials and non painted surfaces. What did you use. I have a project about to begin and would like to go to school on your success.



ML,
Believe it or not, I just used old fasioned elbow grease. I used Scotch Brites and parts cleaning solution. I think steel wool would work as well.


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## RandyM

Mrcnaz said:


> Been watching for a long time, guess its time to ask a question,
> 
> Did you ever have time,  or the opprtunity to weight the thing?:nuts:
> 
> I have a 1966 bridgeport myself and have never figured out the actual weight?



No, never weighed it, but from my research it is supposed to be around 2200-2300lbs. Not light.


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## RandyM

TAWP Tool said:


> Wow! Randy, very nice job! You sir have set the bar very high.
> 
> I am smack dab in the middle of doing the very same thing to my 1967 J head. It's a look-alike cousin to yours. The only difference is that mine has the factory Tibon chromed ways and fortunately they all show very little wear.
> 
> I have saved all of your pics in "Randys BP" folder to provide a little inspiration during my build (ok, also to help show me where everything goes - lol).
> 
> How's she running?
> 
> Guy in Sacramento



Glad I can help. This book is completely invaluable and saved me a lot of head ache and I highly recommend it. It will pay for itself the minute you open it up.
http://www.machinerypartsdepot.com/site/1478157/product/BRM-2J


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## Kevin45

Very, very, nice, and very impressive. I don't know what would be better, run it, or just sit back and stare at it.  Thats about one of the best looking Bridgeports that I have ever laid eyes on. Fantastic job!!!!:man:


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## repauli1

Gorgeous rebuild! Winner so far!! IMHO LOL, not a contest, but, man this is the nutz


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## Silverbullet

Top shelf there, turned out great, do you have the push oiler for the fittings ? You do know not to grease it I hope.  I had an old m head a couple hundred years ago. It's an amazing machine if you think about it. The guys who developed and built it sure deserve a whole lot of praise. And your proving it.
Good luck with your new baby


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## RandyM

repauli1 said:


> Gorgeous rebuild! Winner so far!! IMHO LOL, not a contest, but, man this is the nutz





Silverbullet said:


> Top shelf there, turned out great, do you have the push oiler for the fittings ? You do know not to grease it I hope.  I had an old m head a couple hundred years ago. It's an amazing machine if you think about it. The guys who developed and built it sure deserve a whole lot of praise. And your proving it.
> Good luck with your new baby



Thanks Guys!

SB,

Yes, I have the push oiler and yes, after painstakingly cleaning all the passages the last thing I am going to do is inject grease into them.


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## Silverbullet

oscer said:


> Thanks for the link Randy, I just checked it out and registered. I put the bridgeport back together yesterday, when I was finished I had 2 ,1/4-20x 1/2" round head screws left over :-\ I don't remember where they came from. they wre in the bin with the saddle parts so they must go on the saddle somewhere. Where there little clips that hold the oil lines out of the way of the feed nut assembly? I don't have any parts left over to attach with these screws so I'm not sure where they came from.
> My feed nuts pushed out of the casting with very little help from the arbor press, the new ones are slightly different, they are 2 peice set to adjust backlash and you have to drill the oil holes and turn the groove for the oil to get down to the lower nut. I should take more pic. but I never think of it when I'm working.


They don't hold the riser nut in do they , or part of the new adjustable table nuts are they. I'd worry myself if I didn't figure it out. But that's me.


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