# removing motor pulley - counter shaft- Heavy 10



## rw1 (Aug 23, 2012)

I have the complete assembly out from under the cabinet in my Heavy 10.  Bearing retainer washers and bolts all removed.  Set screws within the Cone Pulley loosened.

Is it just a matter of tapping the whole shaft out the the LEFT  (since larger motor pulleys are on) - and sliding the cone pulley out to the right of the shaft -- to remove the shaft assembly.  I need to get new bearings on this 47 yr old machine.

Don't want to start pounding and break the castings....



Any thoughts and tips  about removal and re-install.....appreciated - thank you!


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## wrenchbender (Aug 23, 2012)

if the shaft is a standard size i would cut the shaft on each side of the cone pulley and have a competent machine shop press the shaft out of the cone and motor pulleys then have a new shaft and bearings ready to install in the assembly.


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## burnrider (Aug 23, 2012)

wrenchbender said:


> if the shaft is a standard size i would cut the shaft on each side of the cone pulley and have a competent machine shop press the shaft out of the cone and motor pulleys then have a new shaft and bearings ready to install in the assembly.



Best way to save a scarce pulley system.


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## woodtickgreg (Aug 23, 2012)

Be carefull with that large pully, there is a taper pin holding it on, Do not try to remove it with out removing the taper pin first. I would also clean the shaft with some emory cloth and remove the set screws from the cone pully, spray everything with pb blaster to help loosen everything up.


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## rw1 (Aug 23, 2012)

I've got the whole unit oriented so the shaft is vertical.  I've poured wd-40 in the top cone that will actually hold a "pool of wd-40".  Letting this soak overnight --hopefully it will begin soak in the shaft bore and begin to loosen.

I"ve tried tapping it a couple times and I think it's moved about a 1/16" -- still too much force for my liking.  I will try to clean the shaft to the right side as much as possible to assist it sliding off.  Good ideas guys.....thank you!

I will leave the V-Belt pulley  (left side) intack for now.

SO --  once I can get the cone pulley sliding,  do I strike the right end of the shaft to drive it out......or better to use a larger pipe that fits up better with the right side bearing.

I'm not worried about pulling the right bearing, it's the left one that concerns me because of the danger in removing the Taper Pin that holds the V-Belt pulley.   Is that a valid concern?  maybe I can repack the left bearing with grease?


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## 7HC (Aug 23, 2012)

rw1 said:


> I've poured wd-40 in the top cone that will actually hold a "pool of wd-40".  Letting this soak overnight --hopefully it will begin soak in the shaft bore and begin to loosen.




You may get lucky, but WD40 isn't a great penetrating fluid, it's designed for water displacement, hence the initials in the name.

Kroil or PB Blaster are very effective but are generally only readily available in spray cans.

If you want something effective that you can pour in to the area, use a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.

M


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## rw1 (Aug 23, 2012)

7HC said:


> If you want something effective that you can pour in to the area, use a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.
> 
> M



That I do have!  Thank you for the home brew....I'll apply it in the morning.

Patience sounds like a good thing on this!


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## rw1 (Aug 23, 2012)

Had one last thought for the evening:

Maybe I should go ahead and try to drive the Taper Pin out that holds the larger Vbelt pulley to the shaft?  If it comes off, now I have no problem accessing and pulling each bearing off the shaft and then I could replace without much trouble.  

My concern is the stress on the casting while trying to drive the taper Pin out.   Perhaps I could brace the shaft against the floor with a 2x4 -- which would absorb the blow to the floor -- instead of cast iron cradle.

THoughts?


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## rw1 (Aug 24, 2012)

Okay,

The taper pin popped out nicely!  I think I should wait and get some bearing pullers on it after I get the bearings out of the casting.

I am now trying to drive the shaft from right to left.  I have a photo of the right shaft separating from the bearing about an 1/8" or so.  I guess the inside of bearing is being shifted in the right direction.

But, the LEFT side seems like there has been no movement.  I'm worried I am "Spreading the Cast Iron" and it could break.   Why isn't the whole thing sliding left??  Both bearings are basically staying in the same place - they should be sliding with the shaft!  WIll those bearings break loose ......they are weaker than the casting, correct???


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## yachtsmanbill (Aug 24, 2012)

Seems unfortunate that no one reads the parts for sale column here... I had a 10" underdrive listed for weeks that I wouldve given away for shipping costs. It came from a school and was actually maintained. Rolled really really smooth... scrap is now down to $220/ton up here and I got $5.00 for it. Oh well...   ws

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/8063-FS-SB-10-drive












That was two days ago...probably on its way to china by now!:angry:


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## rw1 (Aug 24, 2012)

Bill -

Wow.....I had no idea.....but I see you are as new as I am (just Smarter).

This one does hurt a bit...you bet I'll be watching the for sale column from now on.  I would have jumped on this one......
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Still can't get the stupid bearings out  --- I"m going to get some drill bits and start cutting  them up.


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## yachtsmanbill (Aug 24, 2012)

YUP.. ya snooze ya looze... I bought the 10" UD table for $50.00 with a 3 phase motor. Had it listed on all the machining forums and some antique car forums as well... theres actually guys that use this stuff dor overhead shaft drive shops! So now Ill let loose with this... I have a nice 6 jaw chuck (1-1/2 X 8) that Ill trade for a NICE (!) 6 inch 3 jaw with with reversable jaws... throw in a four jaw too and Ill pay the shipping!
   Take a nice small brazing tip and get some direct heat on the bearing race and a clean shaft and theyll come right off.   ws


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## rw1 (Aug 24, 2012)

Take a nice small brazing tip and get some direct heat on the bearing race and a clean shaft and theyll come right off.   ws



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Both ends of that shaft have a shoulder.   Against each of those shoulders a bearing is pressed against it.

Now, to drive the shaft out  of those castings.....one has to move it in one direction.  

Therefore, one bearing will slide out of the casting being pushed..... it jams against the shaft shoulder and is forced to move thru the casting.  It is this scenerio where the bearing stays stuck against the casting.   THis is the problem.

You say heat the bearing, but won't that just expand the bearing and make it tighter to the casting.


Just trying to clearly get a grip on this......


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## woodtickgreg (Aug 25, 2012)

Just as a suggestion I would highly reccommend the book on renovating the south bend lathe by ilion industries from ebay. Even if you are not doing a complete restore it is a wealth of information with tons of pics and step by step instructions. It will tell you how to take anything apart properly without guessing or breaking anything. Many others here have bought this book also, highly recommended. I have one and it is excellent, very helpfull. It has been a great resource while I am restoring my lathe.


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## rw1 (Aug 25, 2012)

woodtickgreg said:


> Just as a suggestion I would highly reccommend the book on renovating the south bend lathe by ilion industries from ebay. Even if you are not doing a complete restore it is a wealth of information with tons of pics and step by step instructions. It will tell you how to take anything apart properly without guessing or breaking anything. Many others here have bought this book also, highly recommended. I have one and it is excellent, very helpfull. It has been a great resource while I am restoring my lathe.



Greg -

Thank you for the reminder.  I do love technical manuals and such.  I found a new copy of 1942 HTRAL last month (before I bought a lathe) and really enjoy it.  I will check this manual out.


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## muirfld (Apr 24, 2018)

Hello everybody. I realize this reply is too late to help the person who started this discussion but I thought I would add my experience in case someone else runs into this situation. This applies to removing and replacing the drive pulley and bearing next to the drive pulley on an old South Bend lathe heavy 10L or (regular) 10R with an undermount drive. I purchased one that was not well taken care of so it would have made more sense to part it out but I hate to see the good old South Bend lathes disappear from use so I decided to restore it. Trying to restore the lathe without replacing both bearings was not an workable option. I have not bought cheap tools from Harbor Freight before but I found their 4 piece 3 jaw puller set (at $29.95 minus a coupon) to work perfectly for this job. Do not pound on the shaft or parts to dislodge or remove them. I removed the whole undermount drive assembly to make it easier to work on the parts. You are likely to damage or deform parts that way. Before trying to remove anything from the shaft you should make sure it is perfectly clean and smooth, otherwise trying to slide off parts is going to be difficult at best. Also, use plenty of penetrating lubricant (not things like WD-40 or T-9). Removing the pulley farthest from the large cast iron drive pulley was straight forward. The three step cones were more of an issue due to some dings on the shaft from the securing set screws but once I got to the part of the shaft I had smoothed out it went well with the large 3 jaw puller. One the outside bearing and step cone was removed, the shaft with the large drive pulley could be removed from the mount. The taper pin in the large cast iron drive pulley (with spokes) was mushroomed on both sides. I carefully ground down the ends of the taper but then I could not distinguish it from the casting well enough to figure out the direction of the taper then either. I tried thinned dye fluid but the pin had been pounded so tight that I still could not detect seam lines. After making a jig to rest the collar of the pulley with notches for the adjacent bearing and room for the drift pin to come out I tried pounding the taper out but with no success. What worked for me was to located where I should drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the taper from both sides (I made some measurements before I ground down the mushrooms on the taper). I drilled about 40% of the way from each end of the taper, or about 80% of the total taper length. From there, it was easy to tap out the taper with a drift that fit into the hole I drilled. I first tried to use the 3 jaw puller to remove the cast iron pulley from the shaft separately from the bearing but felt the force required was too great and I did not want to risk damaging the pulley. The three jaw puller was able to reach through the spokes and also grab the bearing next to the large pulley. I am glad I did it that way since I had to use a very long "beaker bar" wrench handle to pull everything off. The bearing was trashed but I was going to replace it anyway. The important part was there was no damage to the large cast iron pulley and also no damage to the shaft by trying to pound things off (even with proper collar supports and intermediate faces).
I hope my experience is of some benefit to others. I hope more old lathes can be "saved" and not just parted out.
Eric


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## muirfld (Apr 24, 2018)

I see I should have proof read my previous posting before actually posting it but I hope people will overlook some typos and a few sentences I inserted slightly out of order and therefore out of context. Hopefully it makes enough sense after reading the entirety of what I wrote.
Eric


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