# Just Purchased A Pm1340gt! My First Lathe.



## Scott P (Oct 9, 2015)

Been lurking here for a while now digging through all the mfr. forums and decided this is probably the lathe for me, may be overkill, time will tell. So prior to next Friday when I expect delivery I was looking through some builds in here and saw the te-co leveling pads, do any of you who own this lathe know the bolt hole size in the feet of the lathe? or better yet the part# you used?

I also opted for the preffered package, I see most of you guys put different chucks on the lathes. Are the stock ones crap run out wise?

I will be asking a bunch more questions im sure in the coming weeks. Thanks to all of you guys for your reviews and build threads, really made my choice a bit easier.

Scott.


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## brino (Oct 9, 2015)

Hi Scott,

Sorry i cannot answer your Q on bolt hole size.

I just wanted to say:
1) Welcome to the forum! , and
2) Congrats on the new purchase. The waiting is the hardest part......

-brino


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## wrmiller (Oct 9, 2015)

Hey Scott,

Wow, heck of a first lathe!

I bought the te-co pads that Mike (zmotorsports) suggested and they slide (snuggly) through the holes in the stands and I put nuts on either side of the stand plate. I don't recall the part number as I copied it out of one of Mikes posts.

As for the chucks, Matt is now advertising a upgraded chuck package with these lathes that is from Taiwan. Should be better than the old offerings. Honestly, I haven't even tried to mount the original 3-jaw that came with the lathe as I wanted a set-tru as my primary chuck and ordered a aftermarket one. I'll probably use that original one on my rotary table.


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## AirWolf (Oct 9, 2015)

Scott,

I too just purchased this lathe... It's very nice! Here is the info you are seeking on the TE-CO pads. My lathe came with threaded holes to mount the leveling pads and I would HIGHLY recommend you run a tap through the mounting holes - threads on mine had a lot of extra paint and would have been next to impossible to install the pads.

*TE-CO 44451 Leveling Pad And Stud Assembly Yellow Zinc,  1/2"- 13 Thread Size*

Amazon link:  $14.26 each   
http://www.amazon.com/TE-CO-Levelin...Stud+Assembly+Yellow+Zinc,+1/2-13+Thread+Size

Be sure we get some photos of your new baby!


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## Scott P (Oct 9, 2015)

Thanks a ton for the link Airwolf, I assumed metric tapped holes being from Taiwan lol. 

Thanks guys! 

Oh, will a bxa tool post center up on the spindle?

Scott.


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## wrmiller (Oct 9, 2015)

Actually, after thinking/remembering a bit I believe I misspoke. The Te-Cos do thread through the bottom of the stands. I didn't clean up anything, nor rethread. I was a bit surprised when they threaded right in. I did put the extra thread surface below the stand's bottom plate for some reason. Insurance? I don't remember, but it seemed a good idea at the time. 

One of the first things I did after getting it up on it's stand was to put a BXA QCTP on it. Perfect for this size lathe.


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## AirWolf (Oct 9, 2015)

Scott P said:


> Thanks a ton for the link Airwolf, I assumed metric tapped holes being from Taiwan lol.



I thought the same thing... maybe Matt specifies this when he orders them.


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## mksj (Oct 10, 2015)

Nice machine, you should be very happy with it. You will find that there is a mix of US and metric threading on the machine. So things like the the oil drain for the headstock and knurled nuts on the belt cover are US thread. Might have something to do if it is speced with US vs Metric version. Some Taiwan machines are US threaded like my bandsaw, so varies a bit. Look around for the leveling feet (S & W "BSW-2" type), sometimes they come up on eBay at reasonable prices.

As Bill outlined, the new chuck packaged is improved, good for starting and the you get a lot when you go with the deluxe package for this machine.  That being said, most manufactures spec. their 6-8" scroll chucks to 0.002-0.004" TIR, getting anything better than this is hit or miss without a set-tru type of chuck, which have a readability of something around 0.0004". Both Bill and I have the Pratt Burnerd Setrite 3 jaw chucks (Bill's is bigger, uses the 8"), Bison also has a version, and Shar's has a less expensive version ( http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/pm1340gt-with-a-3-jaw-pratt-burnerd-6-setrite.30758/ ). When you are measuring the TIR, you need to use something like Tight-Tolerance Rods—Precision Ground stock to chuck up example: http://www.mcmaster.com/#5252t715/=zb35zw .  I use 1" round in  6", 12" and 1.5" round in 18".

Most of us go with a BXA QCTP, if you go with a Dorian which work very well, I do not recommend their BAX-1 and BXA-2 holders, or the over sized holders. Seems to be lots of variation in the Dorian holders machining/size/versions, and in general over sized holders do not work if you are going to use 5/8" insert holders. The height will be wrong. I use mostly Aloris standard BXA holders, with the buy once mentality.


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## wrmiller (Oct 10, 2015)

I have a Dorian BXA as well, and bought a bunch of tool holders from Matt at PM. His will hold 3/4" tools as well as 5/8" within the adjustment range of the tool post. I think this is because his holders have the tool slot located a bit higher from the bottom of the holder (also puts more 'meat' under the tool). I couldn't go the Aloris tool holder route like mksj did because I spent my extra pennies on my 8" set-tru. I will say though that the holders I got from Matt work well and I've not had any issues with 'em.

You're gonna love this lathe.


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## Scott P (Oct 10, 2015)

Man! Thanks for all the great info guys!

I was given a bunch of 3/4" dorian tools, so your saying I can use these in a bxa post with Matts holders and still be on center? That would be ideal for me. What about a cxa? Says 13" minimum, or is that pushing it.

Scott.


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## wrmiller (Oct 10, 2015)

I have no experience with CXA QCTPs or tool holders. But being right on the edge of the swing range might limit your tool choices in the future. But I'm just thinking out loud.


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## mksj (Oct 10, 2015)

I would think the CXA is too big for this machine, BXA fits just right on the compound, I have just enough travel to cover all my insert tools and can get them all on center with standard holders. Why not get a few BXA holders from Matt, and then see if your tooling fits (they should work with your 3/4" tools just fine, as there is room to move the holders down, see picture below). It will save you a bunch of $$.  My Dorian over sized tool holders take up to a 1" tool, so you give up quite a bit of adjustment range. I can use 5/8" tools, but need a 3/8" spacer on the bottom. 

Another post on the oversized holder issue worth reviewing: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/dorian-bxa-qctp-too-low-for-new-pm-1340gt.38583/#post-330711


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## wrmiller (Oct 10, 2015)

Not ganging up on you Scott, but I agree with mksj: try a holder or two from Matt. Mine will hold 5/8" and 3/4" and will 'almost' hold a 3/8" with no shimming. But 3/4" is max in these holders. FYI...


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## Scott P (Oct 10, 2015)

Hey no problem! Gonna order some up in a bit, just need to take it easy on the spending for a few lol, added to the (long)  list of goods to buy. Thanks again guys! 

Scott.


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## coolidge (Oct 10, 2015)

wrmiller19 said:


> I have a Dorian BXA as well, and bought a bunch of tool holders from Matt at PM. His will hold 3/4" tools as well as 5/8" within the adjustment range of the tool post. I think this is because his holders have the tool slot located a bit higher from the bottom of the holder (also puts more 'meat' under the tool). I couldn't go the Aloris tool holder route like mksj did because I spent my extra pennies on my 8" set-tru. I will say though that the holders I got from Matt work well and I've not had any issues with 'em.
> 
> You're gonna love this lathe.



I still have drool down my shirt for a Dorian


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## george wilson (Oct 11, 2015)

As far as most "stock" Asian chucks are concerned,I have found that they always seem to run out at .003". It always seems necessary to change the 3 jaw chuck that import lathes come with.

Mind you,I have not tried a PM lathe,but my first import,a Jet 10" x 24" from Taiwan(a great little lathe!) and my 16" x 40" Grizzly both had chucks with .003" runout,and required better chucks. I put Bisons on them. My Bison 4 jaw universal 8" chucks,of which I have purchased several for home and work,run out only .001". I ground the jaws on one and got even better!


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## Scott P (Oct 12, 2015)

Would this be a suitable oil to run in the gearbox and apron?
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ulic-Fluid-5-GAL-AW68/_/R-FHQ85705_0509237195

Scott.


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## mksj (Oct 12, 2015)

OK for the quick change gearbox, apron and bearing oilers. The headstock would use ISO 32 (Mobil DTE 24 or light) or 46 (Mobil DTE 25) in warmer climates. Vactra #2 way oil for the sliding surfaces.


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## dave2176 (Oct 12, 2015)

Scott P said:


> Would this be a suitable oil to run in the gearbox and apron?
> http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ulic-Fluid-5-GAL-AW68/_/R-FHQ85705_0509237195
> 
> Scott.


For the apron, yes. My similar green lathe requires ISO32 in the headstock. I expect the lighter oil is for the bearings which are preloaded like yours and would not have an adverse effect on the gears. Best to verify with your manual. Dave (edit: what mksj said while I was typing)


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## Scott P (Oct 15, 2015)

Fedex called me today and said Christmas is tomorrow!!

Scott.


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## wrmiller (Oct 15, 2015)

You know the drill...pics or it didn't happen!


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## Scott P (Oct 15, 2015)

Will do!

Scott.


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## Scott P (Oct 17, 2015)

Well here it is at the tail section at my shop all bundled up. I think I actually got lucky with the driver as he showed he knows his way around a pallet jack, slang that sucker right around on to the tailgate and into my shop, good dude, tried to tip him but refused. Why in the world is my pallet on a skid? the pallet is the skid!! Oh well, that was fun getting that off to actually get the legs of my crane under the machine to actually lift it. So I set the machine on the bases, ran all the bolts through, set it down, took off the hundred straps, put the crane away and noticed I forgot to put the chip pan on, Son Of A B---H!! lollll  Anyway, I got the machine cleaned up and leveled and sitting all pretty, looking forward to wiring it up and doing the break in procedure.

Scott.


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## wrmiller (Oct 17, 2015)

Let the fun begin!  

(like the little race car in the background. Long time ago I raced Solo I/time trials in NorCal)


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## tmarks11 (Oct 17, 2015)

congrats on the lathe. Always a relief to see something as massive as it is arrive without shipping damage.



mksj said:


> OK for the quick change gearbox, apron and bearing oilers. The headstock would use ISO 32 (Mobil DTE 24 or light) or 46 (Mobil DTE 25) in warmer climates. Vactra #2 way oil for the sliding surfaces.


Good source is Enco.  Buy some when the have a coupon + free shipping.


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## Scott P (Oct 18, 2015)

I read the manual front to back and did not see a break in procedure. What sort of break in did you guys do? 

Scott.


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## tmarks11 (Oct 18, 2015)

Standard spindle break in procedure for a gear head lathe (no chuck installed)

1. Disengage the half-nut lever and the feed selection lever.
2. Starting at the lowest speed, run the spindle for 10 minutes forward, and then reverse
3. Progressively step through each spindle speed, repeating the 10 minutes forward and then reverse run (yes this takes awhile).
4. Drain the headstock and refill with fresh oil  (actually is a good idea to drain the headstock, remove the headstock cover and swab out any visible debris in the bottom of the gearbox).

The gearbox will get warm during this process.  Feel the spindle taper periodically.


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## Scott P (Oct 18, 2015)

Thanks a lot! Appreciate the info.

Scott.


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## J Bennett (Oct 18, 2015)

Scott
Congratulation on your new purchase. You have come a long way is such a short time.
I received mine about a month ago and it is still in the middle of the shop floor, barley cleaned up.  That is my fault, no time to work on it. This will change in the next couple of weeks.

James


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## Scott P (Oct 18, 2015)

You know its kinda funny because im like at a turtles pace when it comes to my other projects though! But now it will sit until I get some proper tooling.

Scott.


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## Scott P (Nov 16, 2015)

So any of you with this machine do a dro install thread? 

Thanks in advance.

Scott.


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## zmotorsports (Nov 16, 2015)

Great choice in lathe's Scott.  Looks great in its new home.

Most everyone has already answered your questions but there are quite a few of us now with this lathe on the forum that are happy with them.

I am running a Dorian BXA using Aloris toolholders on mine and I highly recommend it.

Sorry, no DRO on the lathe.  It would be nice but this lathe is so easy to duplicate parts and is so repeatable even with the dials, I haven't been able to justify a DRO, yet.  Maybe someday but not for a while.

Mike.


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## mksj (Nov 16, 2015)

Scott P said:


> So any of you with this machine do a dro install thread?


Usually what is done is to mount the scales to 3/8" or 1/2" stock aluminum bar stock slightly larger than the scale, the stock has 4 small Allen set screws tapped in the corners, and 2 larger mounting screws in slots machined between the set screws on either end. This allows adjustment as to tilt, twist and height with the mounting screws lightly tightened. Alignment (parallelism to the reader) along long axis is adjusted by the slotted mounting screws. parallelism to the reader with the set screws. I usually use a dial indicator to make sure the mounting is lined up correctly, then loosely mount the reader and check that it is running true. My PM1340GT lathe scales were mounted by QMT, and they just used washers to set the height on the Y scale, but they use an aluminum shim block for the X axis. This also covers up the cross slide lock. I have see individuals (and also considering modifying mine) that use an additional extension block ~1/2" on either end of the scale (or mill the center of some 3/4" mounting bar stock), and use a hex head bolt in the lock hole instead of the Allen. You can get to it using a thin wrench.  

On the tailstock DRO, you can see the 4 set screws, the two mounting screws are behind the sliding scale. Probably best to mount the tailstock reader on the top instead of the side, as it can be some interference with the QCTP if your live center is not long enough (I use an extended tip  CNC type which works better for my setup). See pictures, let me know if you have any questions.

X and Y axis Scales











Display and Tailstock


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## Scott P (Nov 16, 2015)

Mksj, thanks for the write up and the pics, Im more of a visual guy anyway! 

zmotorsports, I probably dont need it either but im kinda spoiled having one on my mill.

Thanks again, Scott.


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## Scott P (Jan 5, 2016)

Stupid question but is there a spindle lock on this lathe? The reason I ask is I was manually threading a piece of stock and even having the chuck in low gear I still managed to spin it with the tap handle. Any tips/tricks if there isnt one?

Thanks, Scott.


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