# Direct tap handle mount



## Charles scozzari (Mar 20, 2022)

Good morning, This is a manually operated tap handle that mounts directly to the 
	

		
			
		

		
	





	

		
			
		

		
	
chuck after you lock smaller taps in your mill or drill. One handle is stationary while the other slips threw the ring and into one of the chuck key holes and is locked in place so as to not launch when spinning the tap out of the work.  Thanks for looking.


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## Ed ke6bnl (Mar 20, 2022)

I made one like that, but I threaded one handle


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## MrWhoopee (Mar 20, 2022)

I like it! Now to figure out how to make it work with a keyless chuck.


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## Charles scozzari (Mar 20, 2022)

Ed ke6bnl said:


> I made one like that, but I threaded one handle


Hi, thanks for the reply. That was a good idea. Before I did that I spun the handle and the handle shot out. Thanks again


MrWhoopee said:


> I like it! Now to figure out how to make it work with a keyless chuck.





MrWhoopee said:


> I like it! Now to figure out how to make it work with a keyless chuck.


HHHMMMMM. I will that some serious thought.    Thanks for looking.


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## Dan Krager (Mar 20, 2022)

What I can't get my head around is how to get the chuck to grip the round shaft of the tap well enough to keep from spinning out.  Even my best chuck tightened as hard as I can get it spins out on 1/4 x 20  in mild steel, sometimes in aluminum. I've been tempted to put my head to an adapter, but my Gearwrench tap head chuck has 3/4" stem, so I just slip the tap holder head into a 3/4" collet on my machines. It would be a lot more convenient to swap drill for tap when done drilling.  

DanK


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## Charles scozzari (Mar 20, 2022)

Charles scozzari said:


> Hi, thanks for the reply. That was a good idea. Before I did that I spun the handle and the handle shot out. Thanks again
> 
> 
> HHHMMMMM. I will that some serious thought.    Thanks for looking.


Think I got it, What do you think???????


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## Charles scozzari (Mar 20, 2022)

Dan Krager said:


> What I can't get my head around is how to get the chuck to grip the round shaft of the tap well enough to keep from spinning out.  Even my best chuck tightened as hard as I can get it spins out on 1/4 x 20  in mild steel, sometimes in aluminum. I've been tempted to put my head to an adapter, but my Gearwrench tap head chuck has 3/4" stem, so I just slip the tap holder head into a 3/4" collet on my machines. It would be a lot more convenient to swap drill for tap when done drilling.
> 
> DanK


Hi, I have used this with 1/2"x 13 taps in 1/2" steel plate and to be honest I had to retighten. That said, using 3/8-1/4-10/32 taps I can hand tighten with no problem. Most of the time I'm only tapping through 1/4 or 3/8" plate using my Jacobs #36 chuck with no problem. Thanks for looking and for your question, hope that helps to answer your question.      Charlie.


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## MrWhoopee (Mar 20, 2022)

Dan Krager said:


> What I can't get my head around is how to get the chuck to grip the round shaft of the tap well enough to keep from spinning out.  Even my best chuck tightened as hard as I can get it spins out on 1/4 x 20  in mild steel, sometimes in aluminum. I've been tempted to put my head to an adapter, but my Gearwrench tap head chuck has 3/4" stem, so I just slip the tap holder head into a 3/4" collet on my machines. It would be a lot more convenient to swap drill for tap when done drilling.
> 
> DanK



I routinely power tap up to 1/2-13 in both my Albrecht keyless and small Jacobs keyed chuck. The keyless has a habit of loosening on reverse, but otherwise no problems.


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## Charles scozzari (Mar 20, 2022)

Everyone seems to do it that way. I like to hand tap so I can feel the taps reaction as I apply pressure. When I worked, If you snapped a tap in a piece of equipment it became a major problem. So I guess that's the reason I still do it. Taps are like drill bits and they have a life span. knowing when they are worn is key.             Thanks


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