# Atlas lathe DC motor conversion, treadmill



## WesPete66

So I scored a free treadmill recently. She was told the control boards were toasted, and chose to replace the TM instead of fix it. Well.. It ran perfectly once I stuck a paint stick into the plastic key slot. 
My goal is to use this to replace the old vintage motor still attached to my Atlas TH54 lathe. And if I can use the parts I have instead of buying a motor control, all the better! 
Ok, so now I have the incline motor parts removed.. And I want rid of the treadmill control panel, but how do I go about this? I've been reading what I can find on it but still short on specifics. Is it a matter of wiring in a linear pot and switch? (the switch to allow starting at the last speed) If so where does this pot connect to? And what size/value of pot is needed?
Thanks in advance,
Wes


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## WesPete66

Here is the wiring diagram for the treadmill...


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## Ulma Doctor

the power board on the left  side in the first picture is useless to you for DC drive.
it's for the incline motor, which, by the drawing is an AC motor.
you can remove it from the equation. 

just unplug the blue and white from the board on the right, remove the jumper wires to the board on the right.
 put the blue and white from the incoming power plug onto the right hand board blue and white terminals respectively.
you will now have 115 VAC~ power to the board.

the board will now need speed control provided by the potentiometer you're going to add.
the small gauge red, black, red wires that were jumping across the 2 boards is the speed control wiring that will be connected to the potentiometer.
5vdc will be control voltage that you will have to supply now that there is no controller RED+. 
varying the voltage 0-5vdc with a potentiometer between WHITE+ and BLACK*-* varies the boards output.
i'm not sure the right ohm rating for your application, but a 500 ohm should work for experimentation.
you may be able to get away with a lower value in real life running.

[you may wish to check the little yellow transformers output, it just might be the 5v you need(it may read 7.5v without a load but you'll need to use a bridge rectifier to get DC signal and you'll have a small voltage drop.)] otherwise you could step higher voltages from the transformer down to acceptable levels with inexpensive voltage regulating semiconductors, or opt for a simple solution like a plug in cell phone wall charger, their voltage is 5vdc  and could be easily utilized as the power source.
good luck
mike)


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## WesPete66

Thank you Mike.
Not sure that all makes sense to me yet, maybe when I'm out to the shop it will start to click.
Wes


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## Ulma Doctor

we can take it real slow, no worries.
you can print out my response and take it out to the shop with you.
it might make it a little easier


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## mrbreezeet1

l will be following, i am wanting to do this to a drill press.


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## Kernbigo




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## master53yoda

I have done the same thing on my 12 X 36  and am very happy with the results.   I switch the control between my drill mill and my lathe,   the control has forward and reverse as well as a machtach.

I'll stay out of the conection discussion as Mike knows what he is doing and to many cooks in the kitchen cause confusion.






Art B


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## Ulma Doctor

master53yoda said:


> I have done the same thing on my 12 X 36  and am very happy with the results.   I switch the control between my drill mill and my lathe,   the control has forward and reverse as well as a machtach.
> 
> I'll stay out of the conection discussion as Mike knows what he is doing and to many cooks in the kitchen cause confusion.
> 
> Art B




Thanks Art,
feel free to help out if you have other things to add .
i don't have all the answers to everything, that is for sure!
thank you for your kind words.
mike)


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## WesPete66

A quick update on my DC motor project. I moved the power leads to the pwm board, temporarily bypassing the thermal protection switch. I unplugged the small red/black/white jumper wires between the boards. In their place I used jumper wires to a 5k linear pot. (My brain told me to buy a 5k instead of 500 ohm as suggested. why does it do that to me? ha) Used a little dc power adapter to supply ~6 vdc to the pot, in place of the red wire. The pic below shows the latest setup.
The results were that the motor would be still. Turning the pot, I'd hear a click & the motor would spin up to a fast speed. There was little resolution on the pot adjustment, so yes must get a lower value resistance.. Then will try again.
Am I placing the pot & power lead correctly?


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## Ulma Doctor

looks pretty good from here.    EDIT SEE  Kernbigo's RESPONSE BELOW
it worked now, a potentiometer is probably all you will need to make her sing again!!!
congrats!

were you able to determine the output from the transformer?


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## WesPete66

The transformer is labeled 8 volts (maybe it was 8.5).
I was wondering if I could leave power to the 1st board too, and use only the small red lead as power to the pot?


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## Ulma Doctor

yes, that would be another way of skinning the cat, 
provided that the 1st board outputs power without input from the controller pushbuttons.
you can test the DC voltage out upon applying 115vac


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## Kernbigo

A 5 k is what you want, as per my picture, you break the center wire (wiper) and install your motor start and stop switch, that way you don't have to zero the pot every time you can start off with the speed you left it at.Follow the picture and it will work.


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## mrbreezeet1

Kernbigo said:


> A 5 k is what you want, as per my picture, you break the center wire (wiper) and install your motor start and stop switch, that way you don't have to zero the pot every time you can start off with the speed you left it at.Follow the picture and it will work.



OK, Then 5 k it will be.
Radio shack number for the 5 K is 271-1714.

Hate to ask dumb questions, the picture does show The Hot going to AC 1, 
But would that do damage if AC1 and AC 2 were reversed?
Just wondering. 
And also, do I still need a switch in the A/C 1 line, as I don't think I want to have power to the board all the time do I?
*
Power cord ground goes right to the metal case of the board; Right?*


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## master53yoda

yes, you do want to be able to power off the board, put the switch in the black wire and run it to AC1 , Operationally there isn't any difference between ac1 and ac2      The ground does go to the case.  Also bring a ground back to the  case from the motor as well

Placing the switch on the center lead of the Pot leaves potential available to the speed diodes there is a possibility for damage to the board if connecting motor wires etc without shutting off the power.   There is also a resistor that can be cut that removes the need to reset the speed to zero each time you power the off the board, that is what I did with mine,  

I also leave my power/speed set and switch my forward to reverse back and forth when I'm power tapping on the mill or lathe and allow it to stall the motor then reverse to clean the tap.  I vary the max power or speed with the size of the tap.   The acceleration curve allows this to work without breaking the tap.

Art B


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## mrbreezeet1

So you think it is best I do not cut the center wire then?
I was reading about that resistor, 
RPS 3 I think it was. 
So that does the same thing?
I might just try it with the default settings, I may not mind turning it all the way down to stop and start it. Kind of like a soft start if I understand correctly. 
I like the soft start on my wood lathe, l have a VFD and a 3 phase motor. 

That power taping sounds nice, I might have to get brave and try it. 
Thank you. 



master53yoda said:


> yes, you do want to be able to power off the board, put the switch in the black wire and run it to AC1 , Operationally there isn't any difference between ac1 and ac2      The ground does go to the case.  Also bring a ground back to the  case from the motor as well
> 
> Placing the switch on the center lead of the Pot leaves potential available to the speed diodes there is a possibility for damage to the board if connecting motor wires etc without shutting off the power.   There is also a resistor that can be cut that removes the need to reset the speed to zero each time you power the off the board, that is what I did with mine,
> 
> I also leave my power/speed set and switch my forward to reverse back and forth when I'm power tapping on the mill or lathe and allow it to stall the motor then reverse to clean the tap.  I vary the max power or speed with the size of the tap.   The acceleration curve allows this to work without breaking the tap.
> 
> Art B


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## master53yoda

The power tapping won't work if you have to start and stop it from zero, it will only work if you put a switch in the center leg of the pot or cut the resistor.   when I power tap i'm actuall switchting forward to reverse it applies full power to the motor with only the torque limiting circuitry involved.   

Art B


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## mrbreezeet1

master53yoda said:


> The power tapping won't work if you have to start and stop it from zero, it will only work if you put a switch in the center leg of the pot or cut the resistor.   when I power tap i'm actuall switchting forward to reverse it applies full power to the motor with only the torque limiting circuitry involved.
> 
> Art B



OK, I see. 
I actually got a tread mill free today, so I may not be buying the MC-60 controller. 
You can read about it here if you wanted to. 
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/28732-Wanting-to-power-a-lead-screw/page4
This one has a magnetec motor, and a model KK6039T board. 
I guess it's an OK board, they are selling higher on e bay than the mc-60. 
I could not find much information on it.


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## Kernbigo

[h=2]Re: Atlas lathe DC motor conversion, treadmill[/h]A 5 k is what you want, as per my picture, you break the center wire (wiper) and install your motor start and stop switch, that way you don't have to zero the pot every time you can start off with the speed you left it at.Follow the picture and it will work. As i stated center wire on the pot (wiper)​


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## mrbreezeet1

Kernbigo said:


> *Re: Atlas lathe DC motor conversion, treadmill*
> 
> A 5 k is what you want, as per my picture, you break the center wire (wiper) and install your motor start and stop switch, that way you don't have to zero the pot every time you can start off with the speed you left it at.Follow the picture and it will work. As i stated center wire on the pot (wiper)​



OK, well, I am just using the pot that came with this treadmill/board/motor combination. 
Not sure what the value is?

What are you thoughts on installing the choke?
And does it matter witch motor wire l install it in? 
I have heard(read) use the negative wire, and I have read use either wire. 
thanks for all you help. 
Electrical, I am fair with, Electronics I pretty well get lost, I understand the basics, and can follow instructions.


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## Kernbigo

I installed the transformer in the hot incoming power lead, if that is what you are referring to?


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## mrbreezeet1

Kernbigo said:


> I installed the transformer in the hot incoming power lead, if that is what you are referring to?



well, it's a transformer "looking thing" but there are only 2 wires. one in and one out. 
I thought it went in the/a motor lead.


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## master53yoda

That looks like a transformer but is really a choke for the DC to the motor.  I install them on the + wire but it would work on either wire.     It adds an induction filter to the brushes and will help keep the motor stable. on some of the larger motors there is also a capacitor.

Art B


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## mrbreezeet1

Gunrunner you need to order a set of these for the Z axis hand crank. Bill did you just spit coffee on your monitor? :rofl:

View attachment 253356


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## WesPete66

(re. the original project of this post) Holidays are past, and the temp isn't too bad so back to the shop today..  I found a 5k pot to use & wired it up as in the pic. I used a 5VDC wall wart plug as a supply. Connected its red lead to the center pot pin, and its black lead to the chassis ground. One pot side lead connected to the 'black' board terminal and the other pot side lead to the 'white' board terminal. Nothing on the 'red' board terminal. (I guess the wall wart plug takes the place of the red wire.?)
I plugged it all in and was reaching to turn the pot when it popped/flashed! Pulled the plug... Notice the smudge about an inch right of the pot? That's where the magic smoke came out.:whistle:
OK, so what am I doing wrong?


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## mrbreezeet1

I don't think your supposed to apply power to those POT terminals. 
Just hook the center pot to W and the 2 outside ones to the 2 outside terminals.

_*Maybe I am wrong, wait till someone is sure, I have a mc 60 board, and thought all you have to do is hook up the pot. 

But yours might be different. 
I was gust going to delete this, but don't think I can. *_


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## WesPete66

Well you may well be right Mr Breezee.  But I thought I had to supply an outside 5VDC source since I earlier disconnected the other board which was supplying it. Hopefully someone else can weigh in and clear that up. Thanks!


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## rwm

So how fast do these DC motors stop when shut off? I hear you can short the leads to act as a brake. Has anyone done that?
R


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## Kernbigo

mc 60 wireing


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## mrbreezeet1

does he have a mc-60 though?


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## mrbreezeet1

here is the board here. 
looks different than the mc 60 board, but the connections seem to be the same. 
Might try wiring it up with out the external 5 v power supply. 
I thought the OP had it running once already using a external 5 v power supply, but I am not sure. 
The little board I got with this treadmill I got, I wired up just like the mc-60, and it worked fine. 
Although the OP said something popped, l hope the board was not damaged.


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## WesPete66

True, this is not an MC60 board, but it seems to have common connections.
Today I tried it with the three leads connected to the pot, without the external power source. And I got no action from the motor.
So.. I then replaced the original wiring & console panel, as it arrived. And again nothing from the motor. So it would seem that I somehow toasted the control board. I don't know what I did to hurt it. So l guess I'll be looking to buy a control board now.  Unless someone has any suggestions to try?  
Is the amp rating on the motor the main spec used in choosing a control board?
Thanks!


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## mrbreezeet1

l am probably not the best to advise, but an mc-60 should do it. 
Or, from what I have read, a KBIC-120, with a 1 HP resistor. 
I have a KBIC-120 but have not used it yet. 
There was a guy selling mc-60's for $35.00 shipped, but he raised them to 45 shipped. 
Don't know if he has a best offer or not. 
I am going to be using the KBIC-120 on my 1/2 HP motor I got, I think it is more of a true 1/2 HP, 
I know it is bigger than most treadmill motors. 
I think I am going to start with a 1/2 HP plug in resistor for the KBIC-120 board. 
Or You could try to find another free treadmill?
I was lucky, I found this motor, said to be "open box" for about $30.00 shipped on Amazon. 
But I did not try to run it yet, As I just got it today.
I need to do that soon! in-case there is a problem with it.
I guess UPS is working Sundays now.


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## mrbreezeet1

Come up with anything?


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## mrbreezeet1

Wespete is this project coming along, or did you give up on it for now.


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## great white

rwm said:


> So how fast do these DC motors stop when shut off? I hear you can short the leads to act as a brake. Has anyone done that?
> R


That's why I went with the cycletrol 150. According to its documentarion, it incorporates a braking circuit...


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## WesPete66

MrBreeze, no I haven't given up on it. Just haven't got back to it yet! ha  Winter stopped all my outdoor interests. And now that it's nicer out I have LOTS of chores needing done. But yes my lathe is in the front of the list anyway.
What are your thoughts on buying a used control board when they have a no return policy?  I almost bought a used board, but backed away from it.
Wes


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## mrbreezeet1

WesPete66 said:


> MrBreeze, no I haven't given up on it. Just haven't got back to it yet! ha  Winter stopped all my outdoor interests. And now that it's nicer out I have LOTS of chores needing done. But yes my lathe is in the front of the list anyway.
> What are your thoughts on buying a used control board when they have a no return policy?  I almost bought a used board, but backed away from it.
> Wes


depends how much they want for it, Was it a treadmill board or one of the KBIC boards. 
I guess if it was around $40.00 or less,  I would get it. I brought a used KBIC 120 and a used MC-60 but haven't used either yet. 
So If they are bad, It's been pretty well too long any ways. 
There was a guy selling MC-60's for $35.00 shipped, but he upped them to $45.00 shipped. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Treadmill-motor-controller-MC-60-/121592569986?


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## WesPete66

I kinda forget the details now, but they were used boards removed from treadmills.  I thought it kinda strange he had so many of them, but hey...


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## mrbreezeet1

WesPete66 said:


> I kinda forget the details now, but they were used boards removed from treadmills.  I thought it kinda strange he had so many of them, but hey...


Yeah, I have not used my MC-60 yet, and I also got a KBIC-120, both used,  Have not tried it yet either.
Replacing the bearing in my drill press right now. (yeah, thats a good excuse,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,LOL)
Think I paid $40.00 shipped for the KBIC-120 and $35.00 shipped for the MC-60.
Depending on the voltage of your motor, I think the MC-60 puts out 130 volts DC
where the KBIC only puts out 90 volts DC.
There is a mericmac (sp?) I am using on my drill press, it came with the treadmill, seems to work OK, but some guys (I have read) say they do not like the miricmac(sp?)
_Don't hold up as well_. I don't have personal experience _re. this comment_ though.

Here is a KBIC-120, I would try offering $40.00 WITH SHIPPING.
Theres a make offer option.  But you can put a note saying $40.00 WITH SHIPPING. he might take it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400541532054?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

heres my Drill press with the Tread Mill motor, don't know if you saw it.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Vof7CyyFoR3G5-Q&bvm=bv.89184060,d.cWc&cad=rja


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## mrbreezeet1

here is a KBIC -120, new old stock, for $50.00, plus $6.35 shipping, or "Make offer" I'll bet he would take $40.00 0r $45.00.
Or Offer $45.00 shipped?
All he can say is No.
I Brought one for $45.00 New, shipped. 
Even the $50.00 Plus shipping is not bad. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KBIC-Solid-...855?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa61223df


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