# Craftsman 12" Carriage Stop?



## Olddaddy (Dec 20, 2015)

I was wondering if anybody had an easy solution for a carriage stop?  I've been using a small c-clamp, but it is a pain to set up and then rely on.  I see them on Epay for $50 and more, which is a bit spendy.  A good simple solution would be a great add to my tool kit.  Thanks.


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## David S (Dec 20, 2015)

Not sure what a 12" looks like, but here is what I did for my Atlas 618.  It is a combined stop and X travel indicator.  The indicator is on the top and the adjustable stop rod is on the bottom.  I think the photo gives the idea.  There is a brass strip under the screw that clamps it to the bed to prevent marking ways.

Normally I can clamp it in one location and just quickly adjust the lower rod as a stop.


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## Olddaddy (Dec 20, 2015)

That is simply beautiful!  You are clearly more advanced that I expect to ever be.  However, the concept is simple enough I think I could manage to make one up minus the dial indicator.  The parts I mostly make are not necessarily high tolerance dimensions.  If I can simply stop where the cutter met the pattern during setup I would be all set.  I'm going to steal your idea and copy it for my own use!  Thanks!!


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## David S (Dec 20, 2015)

Hope it works out for you.  Let us see what you come up with.  It doesn't hurt to leave space to add an indicator in the future.  I find it comes in very handy, especially parting off something to length.

David


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## brino (Dec 20, 2015)

Olddaddy,

A search of threads here should find several good designs.
Over the last year or so I remember turret ones with multiple stops, some with a few fold-down stop fingers, and others with and without dial indicators.
If you cannot find them, ping me, I probably have some book-marked and can supply links directly to them......

-brino


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## davidh (Dec 20, 2015)

this is what i fabbed up a bit ago.  the red shaft is no. 10 wire.  its makes a great flex shaft. . .


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## David S (Dec 20, 2015)

David like the idea for the "flex shaft".

David


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## brino (Dec 20, 2015)

okay, I've got a few minutes......here's some links:

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/hmmm-carriage-stop-confusing-me.40058/#post-344844
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/double-duty-micrometer-stop-project.34769/
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/thre...-for-craftsman-atlas-lathe.37939/#post-325404
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/micrometer-carriage-stop-repairs.36157/
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/four-position-carriage-stop.34846/#post-294838
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/micrometer-stop.34605/#post-292742
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/thre...arriage-stop-for-my-hf-7x10-mini-lathe.32508/
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/g0602-carriage-stop.32075/

Wow that last one is Bob Sakowski's first post here......there's some history!

Those should keep you busy browsing for a while.
Please post back with what you come up with.

-brino


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## Olddaddy (Dec 20, 2015)

Brino,  thanks for the links, great ideas to work with.  Mine will be simple, but I have a spare dial indicator and a couple micrometers that are not earning their keep.  I'm getting a new TIG welder for Christmas, time to fab something up!


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## tomh (Dec 20, 2015)

Look at Toms techniques on you tube. 
He has plans and a video on building one for a craftsman lathe.

Tomh


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## brino (Dec 20, 2015)

Olddaddy said:


> I'm getting a new TIG welder for Christmas, time to fab something up!



Obviously you've been a good boy this year!
-brino


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## Olddaddy (Dec 20, 2015)

Well,  I do have a few secrets, but am keeping quiet till 12/26!  I looked at all the links and I think I can put something together from them.  I also watched the "Toms" video and some others which made it look really easy.  I'll post some pics when I get one pulled together.

Happy Christmas Gents!  Without a doubt the friendliest, most helpful forum I take part in!!


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## tomh (Dec 20, 2015)

Old daddy 
On the 618 lathe group under calkins photos is a detailed drawing for a very basic stop you may like.
I am afraid to post pic of the drawing  due to possible conflict of interest. He gives detailed measurements in the drawings.
Tomh


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## Round in circles (Dec 22, 2015)

My simple  carriage stop is two  3x 2 x 1/2 " thick aluminium plates ,  drilled and bolted into an " F" type vice  with the pivot point a fraction  greater than the lip of the bed
Once the centre bolt is tightened and the end bolt tensioned , it is rock solid and enough for my purposes as I always set the stop before hand to the exact point I want it to stop the hand fed carriage .  For I'm not a fan of saying well it's nearly there and then having to concentrate on a micrometer at a finer setting .


As I have a simple digital " F " type micrometer that has a depth gauge so setting depths or distances from the work face is not a problem .
The main clamp top nut is a nylock nut and the bolt for it is thread locked into the  tapped lower plate . The through hole in the top plate is 1'8 " greater than the centre bolt to allow it to move and not bind . The centre bolt is a high tensile bolt  which means I can get a lot of clamping power  on the stop


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## bill stupak (Dec 22, 2015)

Round in circles said:


> My simple carriage stop is two 3x 2 x 1/2 " thick aluminium plates , drilled and bolted into an " F" type vice with the pivot point a fraction greater than the lip of the bed



I'm having a hard time picturing it, Do you have a picture of it.

Bill


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## T Bredehoft (Dec 22, 2015)

I copied/adapted the four stop stop above, my tiny Atlas/Clausing Mk@ doesn't have room for 4, but I managed to get three. 
	

		
			
		

		
	




The two square block have 1/4 20 screws inside, can be extended about 7/8 each.


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## uncle harry (Dec 23, 2015)

Olddaddy said:


> I was wondering if anybody had an easy solution for a carriage stop?  I've been using a small c-clamp, but it is a pain to set up and then rely on.  I see them on Epay for $50 and more, which is a bit spendy.  A good simple solution would be a great add to my tool kit.  Thanks.



I have a South Bend 9A bench lathe. I bought a Fenner Drives Trantorque shaft mounting unit to use as a spindle stop or to temporarily mount other devices to the spindle opening at the change gear end.  These devices are designed to securely mount things like pulleys and gears to shafts without needing key ways or set screws. The are like a collet and have a hex nut feature to allow tightening.  They work great for synchronizing drives. The unit I have mates a 5/16" shaft to a 3/4" I.D hole. They have a reasonable adjustment range and are very concentric.

EDIT: Time for me to retire ! (Wait, I did that years ago).  Somehow I transposed CARRIAGE into SPINDLE !  Silly Me.  Oh well, this is still is a useful application for my lathe.  Sorry guys


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## brino (Dec 23, 2015)

uncle harry said:


> EDIT: Time for me to retire ! (Wait, I did that years ago). Somehow I transposed CARRIAGE into SPINDLE !



Just don't do it when your using the machine! 
-brino


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## uncle harry (Dec 23, 2015)

brino said:


> Just don't do it when your using the machine!
> -brino



Too late !      But not very often have I goofed & luckily never crashed.  I'll have to get busier !


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## brino (Dec 23, 2015)

I have needed a carriage stop/position-er for a year (since I got this lathe).
Finding and posting all those links above, along with the immediate need to cut-off some parts to length inspired me.

After some quick measurements and a sketch on the shop white-board I found an aluminum block and started cutting/milling.
I needed the dial-indicator mounted immediately, and just left room to add some kind of stop(s) later....





I made two mistakes:

I noticed that the indicator stem was not parallel to the ways; the hole for the dial indicator was not 90 degrees thru the block! Crap! I must have had some cuttings under it in the drill-press vice. I used the same 5/8" mill to make a new bigger hole that was square to the face, and made and pressed in a brass bushing. Rather than try to hide it, I'll show it off and claim it was design intent to add some flair, yeah that's it...

I clamped the body and the clamp block together for drilling to ensure the holes were aligned. However, I had the clamp block on the wrong "step" of the body....oh well, spin the block around and re-drill/re-tap....no one will ever know! 
Here it is on the lathe:



The dial indicator hits the target boss on the carriage nicely; and there is lots of room to add a couple stops in the future....



What would I change (other than the mistakes above), two things:

Purely for looks I would put those two SHCS for the clamp block slightly further apart. They are on 1/3 body-width spacing, but due to the round holes they look closer together than they are to the edges. I think they would look better slightly further apart.
I'd have done it a year ago!
Also I'd like to find a different dial indicator with at least a 2" travel.

-brino


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## Olddaddy (Dec 23, 2015)

Brino,    I think you have the beginnings of a cottage industry there!  I'd have to make twice as many mistakes and take three times as long to end up with one half as nice, cheaper to buy from you!!


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## Round in circles (Dec 23, 2015)

bill stupak said:


> I'm having a hard time picturing it, Do you have a picture of it.
> 
> Bill


Not sure Bill .. I have changed over from Microsoft to the Ubuntu  system  ( still working my way through how to use it ..it took me nearly 40 years of Microsoft to become good with it ) .
So all my pictures skills are bit all over the place at present .. I'll check to see if there is one on my old Photobucket account .
If not I'll  brave the  monsoons we are experiencing at present here in the UK and swim out to the garage to take several pictures tomorrow .

 Pictures not  on my old account .... I'll do it in the morning . 
Dave


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## Round in circles (Dec 24, 2015)

bill stupak said:


> I'm having a hard time picturing it, Do you have a picture of it.
> 
> Bill



Bill ,
Exploded view  two half inch thick aluminium plates cut with an angle grinder & a thin stainless steel cutting fibre blade .





This shows a couple of washers used to make a fulcrum point . The hole in the top plate is a few mm bigger than clearance , done so you can get the top to move easily when clamping it up.





Here I'm showing it assembled  .note the narrower  open end between the plates .. this is where the clamping force is applied . th fulcrum is only a smidgeon bigger than the thickness of the bed ways.






Finally here it is , clamped in position .
Like I said it's dead simple  ..it has to be , for I don't have the luxury of a mill or any fly cutters at present .
It butts up  against the wiper pad's securing screw head , so there is no need to have any great force applied . I simply disengage power feed  on the last 1/4 " of carriage travel and gently take the rest in by hand using the carriage hand feed .

If you take a bit of care setting it right back against the carriage feed toothed rail that sits under the way it's really use full and does not easily move.





One last observation   :-
For my type of lathe ,  because it does not run across the whole bed way it can be set to the extreme left ,  most stops can't go past the start of the headstock housing if they sit cross the way


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## bill stupak (Dec 24, 2015)

Thanks, I get it now. I like the KISS approach. 

Bill


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