# Teardown & painting a SB9A



## pjf134 (Apr 26, 2011)

The weather finally got warm enough to paint, but still raining almost every day. Tailstock, compound, crossslide &amp; saddle are painted, below are some pics as I was sanding the old paint off down to bare metal and tearing apart. Trying to keep the parts together as much as possible so I can put it all together right. I do need to buy one gits oiler for the top of my countershaft, but I think postage would be more than the part. Anybody got one laying around that they do not need? My restore is for protection from rust, not a show piece. Rust pits and dings everwhere, just not worth it. Every thing does not have a lot of wear, just a lot of rust from sitting for years.
The lathe runs good, and I hope it turns out looking good too.
 Paul


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## Grandtools (Apr 27, 2011)

I probably have some extra Gits oilers,,, is that a 3/16" or a 1/4" you need?


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## pjf134 (Apr 27, 2011)

Doug,
 I will have to check, but I think it is 1/4" for the countershaft. I think I need another one for the apron, none there now, It's the one near the top right near the thread dial. I did not notice it until today while I was cleaning it up for painting. The hole was plugged flush with the apron, which made it look like nothing was there. Moving right along with the painting and cleaning as shown in the pics. My next door neighbor come over today with a job for the lathe, but I showed him the lathe and said he will have to wait for that tool that he wants me to make for him. 2" tapered rod with all thread thru the middle ( 2-req'd.) cone shaped.
 Paul


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## pjf134 (May 2, 2011)

More teardown and painting, gearbox is next, just started today on it. One of these days I will change the date on my camera. I did find a round wire spring clip about 7/8" dia. laying on table, I think it came from apron, but can't find out where, it does not match up to anything on apron. It was not there until I started to work on apron, but everything seems to be in place. This is why I only work on one thing at a time so this would not happen. Anyway the gearbox is cleaning up nice. More to come in the days ahead.
 Paul


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## jghm (May 2, 2011)

Looking good Paul. On the 2 gear box shifters, the gears that are shown on them have needle bearings. It would be a good idea to pull them out and clean, re-grease, replace or whatever it takes. Down the road they never really get lubed, but are always turning. I just did this to my 9A a couple of months ago. The bearings in mine were very worn and tight. The local bearing store had replacements for a very reasonable price. Also if you post a pic of the spring clip I might remember where it was.
John


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## pjf134 (May 2, 2011)

jghm;
 The spring clip wire is about 1/32" dia. and about 7/8" O.D. (not compressed) It does not seem to fit anywhere. I plan to do a complete teardown of gearbox, just started today. My 1968 SB9A has very little wear, just been sitting a long time, oil dried up and rust formed from lack of care. All gears and leadscrew are in very good shape except for dried up oil on them and some surface rust.
All parts are cleaning up nice, but a lot of work though, took some time to get parts to bare metal before painting. I just have been working on one part at a time then painting before it starts to rust. That wire clip is bugging me, since I did not take it off, it just fell off by itself I guess. I thought it was the one on the top middle of the apron gear shaft, but that one is on.
 Paul


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## jghm (May 2, 2011)

Do you have a parts breakdown? There is one here:
http://www.wswells.com/data/9_workshop/CL670Z_army.pdf
Something might jog your memory. Maybe part 16 on the apron?
John


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## pjf134 (May 2, 2011)

jghm,
 The spring should be a 16 or 52, but the 52 is on and the 16 I thing is on, will have to check again, but I think it was the wrong size if I remember right. The 7 &amp; 10 assy. seems loose, but that clip is the wrong size for the shaft. I did look at the parts breakdown before. Maybe it came off something else without me noticing it, not sure now. I can not think of anywhere a spring clip would be but the apron.
 Paul


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## pjf134 (May 4, 2011)

More teardown on the gearbox, got it apart fairly quick, just many parts to clean though. First pic is when I gave it a quick bath in kero. Second pic is the first quick coat of paint after cleaning some minor rust. The taper pins came out easy, I did find a good use for an old arrow, keeping the gears in right position. The only problem I had was the pin that hold some of the gears together (horizontal pin), I had to nock the shaft and get one gear at a time off, but not a big problem. Now I just have to paint and clean gears up then put back together right. I did manage to remember to change date on my camera.


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## martik777 (May 6, 2011)

That spring clip sounds like it may be off of the bull gear to the right of the pulley on the spindle.

Looks like you are having fun... I am doing exactly the same on a 1944 SB 9A, all I need is a fix/replacement for my sheared back/bull gear and a gear cover guard.


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## pjf134 (May 6, 2011)

martik777,
 I did not take apart the spindle or headstock yet, so the spring clip is not from there. I am having some trouble with the gear box, the keyway in the main shaft got some damage so I am working to fix it. This job is taking too long.
 Paul


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## pjf134 (May 8, 2011)

I have been working off and on for a couple of days now, put the main shaft gears together and the gears would not turn by hand, thats what happened when I first got the lathe. I took it apart and had to polish everything up on the shaft and gears, now it works smooth. The other two shafts were the same. And now everything is together and painted on the gear box, boy that took awile to get it right. After I took the picture I touched up the paint a little and now it is done finally. Next I took off the reverse gear assembly and started cleaning that up. I can't wait until it's done. I am learning way too much on this lathe, more than I wanted too. More pics too come later and maybe a book deal LOL.
 Paul


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## pjf134 (May 9, 2011)

Another part cleaned up and ready for paint, the reverse gear assembly. I guess the next part is the headstock, I wonder what kind of problems I could find there. I hope all this painting and cleaning will help stop the rust for a long time.
 Paul


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## martik777 (May 9, 2011)

Check the radial play before you pull the spindle out. 

http://www.wswells.com/data/howto/Spindle_Bearing_Adj_9_10k.pdf 

re/re guide: http://www.wswells.com/data/howto/spindle_removal_workshop-9.pdf


I couldn't believe mine was only about .0015 after 66 years and all the shims still seem to be there.


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## pjf134 (May 9, 2011)

MARTIK,
 I did a quick test some weeks ago and it barely moved, maybe a few thousands, don't remember now, but it seemed good at the time. I just started to remove the spindle tonight. I just moved it a little then quit for today. Will do it tuesday as long as the wife does not find anything else for me to do. I still have a lot of work ahead of me.
 Paul


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## pjf134 (May 10, 2011)

Another day in the life of my SB9A. Today I removed my spindle and started to clean everything to get it ready to paint, close to getting it done, I hope to get it put back together wed., then start on the bed. The headstock is about half done as of today. More to come later.


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## pjf134 (May 12, 2011)

Change of plans today, I decided to work on the bed first, then while that paint was drying I would work on the headstock. I used purple power anti rust on the bed, thats why the brown cast in the pic. I wiped the brown dust off as per directions then painted.
Almost done with everything, ready to put all back together soon. I still have to do some touch up later on the bed, that was a quick first coat.
 Paul


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## Grandtools (May 12, 2011)

It's looking good Paul,,,, maybe I'll have to hire you to do my other machines ;D. I'll get those oilers for you next week as I'll be spending some time over at the warehouse.


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## pjf134 (May 12, 2011)

Thanks Doug,
 It is not show room quality, but is pretty decent for how much rust was on it. It's the first lathe I redid, most of my life I have done steel mill equipment, re-design and worked on, so this is small. Maybe one day I will design a lathe that will be better than the ones out there. I have re-designed ways on a refractory machine that always is moving back and forth with grit thrown all over it, and it will most likely outlast the machine. I would have to make a new bed and saddle for my method to work. I guess I need more equipment.
 Paul


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## pjf134 (May 13, 2011)

Thanks Jim B.,
 Is the dim's for a SB9A which I have or for something else? Does it also have a pin to insert into the threaded collar? I did not like that fiber washer anyway.
 Thanks,
 Paul


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## pjf134 (May 13, 2011)

Thanks Jim B.,
 The pin was in the fiber washer and a hole in the nut. The headstock looked different in your pic thats why the question. I do have a 1 1/2-8 spindle. Do you by chance have the part number for the TFE grease for spindle, mine does take it, I need some so I can put my headstock together. I also need a brass insert for the back gear shaft, the one nearest the chuck end, there is about 1/16" left on it. I could make one but I have no brass yet and also no lathe yet, but close.
 Paul


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## pjf134 (May 13, 2011)

Jim B.,
 I was going to use gear oil as I have some, so maybe thats what I'L use then.
 Paul


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## Tony Wells (May 13, 2011)

PRODUCT DATA SHEET
Product: ViscoTech DE112
Type: Grease
Reference: N/A
This uniquely designed product containing PTFE is a premium material that is
waterproof and is a high temperature non-melt type grease. The organic phosphate
additive used in this material is absorbed on metal surfaces forming a tenacious film. If
the film is ruptured, it will self-repair. DE112 Special Lubricant offers long service life at
very low concentration, which results in economical usage.
Typical properties of the product are as follows:
Type of Thickener Bentone
Penetration Range (ASTM D217)
Worked 300 - 330
NLGI Grade 1
Color Off-White
Dropping Point (ASTM D2265) 232Â°C
Base Oil Viscosity @ 38Â°C 66 - 72 cSt
Low Temp Usage -35Â°C
SPECIFICATIONS
The typical properties reported on this data sheet should not be used for writing specifications or creating drawings.
Please consult ECL for assistance in preparing a specification for this product.
SAFETY
This product does not contain hazardous, toxic or reportable ingredients. At elevated temperatures adequate ventilation is required
to remove generated fumes. See the Material Safety Data Sheet for further safety related information.
PACKAGING
Standard packaging includes pails, kegs and drums. Special packaging can be accommodated on request. Upon request, we can
provide purchasing assistance for those customers requiring tote systems.
DISCLAIMER
Since we cannot anticipate or control the many different conditions under which this information and our product may be used, we cannot guarantee
the applicability of this information or the suitability of our product in any individual situation. For the same reason, the product discussed is sold
without warranty expressed or implied. Please contact Engineered Custom Lubricants for assistance and recommendations prior to writing or
releasing any engineering specifications. Engineered Custom Lubricants and ECL are assumed names of Roy Dean Products Company.
11-03



Additional:

South Bend, for example, recommends four different lubricants for
their 9" and 10" lathes: CE1671 bed way lube, CE1603 medium machine
oil, CE-1600 light machine oil, and CE1625 Teflon grease. These are
|available from South Bend, and the discussion and tables below
|should allow you to choose an equivalent oil available from an
|industrial supply house. The Teflon grease is available from
|Roy Dean Products in Dearborn, MI, as part number DE112.


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## pjf134 (May 14, 2011)

Maybe we should take a poll on grease vs. oil in a spindle and backgear when it is marked grease. Lets see who has been using what and see what works best from the old timers. I have been told use oil from 20w to gear lube 140w and tfe grease and now I do not know what to use. There was grease in the spindle and back gear when I tore it apart and the shafts look better than other shafts on the lathe that use oil, so that is why I am leaning to grease. But anyway I was useing my belt sander on my bench to get it ready to paint and used the purple power anti rust, that why the brown cast, then wipe it off when it was dry then paint. I finished the first quick coat and I am letting it dry a bit before I apply a second coat, then letting it dry and start to put the lathe back together one piece at a time. I would like to figure out the grease vs. oil soon, so I can put the headstock back together. I hope everybody is enjoying the pics. Maybe I will start another thread for the re-assembly of the SB9A. What does everybody think?
 Thanks for all the advice,
 Paul


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## pjf134 (May 17, 2011)

Getting a little closer to being done, still have to do the countershaft and change the motor out and rewire for drum switch. That oil based paint takes a long time to dry as I have to touch up paint as I get the parts together, it's really soft yet. I have a QCTP to put on yet, but have to machine t-nut, but I have no mill yet, so I will have to do it another way.
 Paul


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## pjf134 (May 26, 2011)

Back to finishing my lathe, been busy for awhile, mounted my countershaft and wired in the drum switch for the other motor. The only things I have to finish are the guards and adjust everything. It can run now but I do not have any oil yet. I have to machine a new t-nut for the QCTP, but I have no mill yet, so I guess I will have to do it another way. A chip pan would be nice and it will keep my paint job looking good for awhile maybe. My bench needs some work too, it is a little wobbly, I was thinking of attaching it to the wall and adding drawers also. Final pics coming soon. This job only took about 5 weeks, my shop floor is covered with rusty brown dust, a lot of rust came off, whatever is not on the floor it's on me (LOL).
 Paul


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## pjf134 (May 26, 2011)

JIMB,
I was thinking about sheet metal or flashing for a chip tray like yours but with raised 4 sides & a notch on one corner to dump chips. My bench has no bracing to speak of, that's why it wobbles I guess, I wonder how someone used it like that. Some drawers and shelfs would help a lot, maybe some cross bracing too. I am trying to get it going soon as I have some items to machine on it, maybe drawers can wait a little, it's been down for awhile so projects been backing up.
Paul


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## pjf134 (May 27, 2011)

My SB9A almost done, moving it around the shop to see where it fits the best.
 Paul


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