# Yet another large direct reading cross slide dial...



## Dranreb (Dec 23, 2013)

This is my second attempt at making one of these things, I wanted to be  able to zero it but without having a locking screw sticking out, this is  what I came up with, the dial is loosened & locked by a 1/4 turn on  the center knurled nut.








I hope y'all like the way I've stylishly turned down the numbered area, this detail took a while to achieve...:lmao: 

Bernard


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## Dranreb (Dec 23, 2013)

A few more detail pics of the hub.









Bernard


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## thomas s (Dec 23, 2013)

Nice job wish I had the talent to make one. I should give it a try even with glasses on I cant read the dials anymore


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## Dranreb (Dec 23, 2013)

thomas s said:


> Nice job wish I had the talent to make one. I should give it a try even with glasses on I cant read the dials anymore



Thanks thomas, but it didn't take a lot of talent really, the first one I made was rubbish and both where just made by trial and error, emphasis on the error.. 

Here's a PDF file of the indexer I made for marking out the dial, if you fancy having a go just print it out then stick it onto a ply disc, then fix that to the back end of your spindle.

View attachment Indexer 200 div numbered anti clockwise..PDF


Bernard


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## David S (Dec 23, 2013)

Nice Job Bernard.  I wish I could do something for my Atlas 618.

David


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## Dranreb (Dec 23, 2013)

David S said:


> Nice Job Bernard.  I wish I could do something for my Atlas 618.
> 
> David



Hi David, it's a pain there being no room at all under your cross slide, maybe you could  make an extension to thread onto the end of the lead screw, which would  move the lager dial and crank handle out of the way to stop the cross slide hitting it.

This could be threaded up to a shoulder with a nut to lock the rotatable dial, and threaded smaller at the end to hold the crank handle. The pointer to line the dial up with may need some thought but this would give you the same as mine only further out..

A friend of mine has done a similar thing to put a very big dial on his big old lathe!

Did this in SketchUp if it helps to make it clearer..




Bernard


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## David S (Dec 24, 2013)

Bernard thank you very much for taking the time to make the sketch.  I love my Atlas 618 and have lots of attachments for it.  I am the second owner and have had it for 43 years.  Following your idea would also solve another irritant and that is when the cross slide handle is at the 8 oclock position it is easy to hit it when operating the carriage feed handle.  I will put this on my project list.

Thank you again and Merry Christmas.

David


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## Dranreb (Dec 24, 2013)

Glad to be of some help David, I'd be interested to know how it works out, be sure to keep us posted when you get around to it...

Seasons greetings

Bernard


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## PurpLev (Dec 24, 2013)

very nice!


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## David S (Dec 29, 2013)

Dranreb said:


> Glad to be of some help David, I'd be interested to know how it works out, be sure to keep us posted when you get around to it...
> 
> Seasons greetings
> 
> Bernard



Bernard I took the handle off and looked at how stuff fits together.  As you know the handle drives the shaft via a woodruff key, and the nuts on either side of the handle adjust the end play of the lead screw.

I am trying to figure out how to attach the extension so it will have a positive drive to the shaft as well as allow for adjustment of the end play.  I really don't want to modify any original parts, and rather not use loctite.  The shaft is only 5/16" with NF thread.

Any suggestions for locking the extension on?

Thank you

David


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## pdentrem (Dec 29, 2013)

David, you could use a set screw or two. Put a piece of lead or brass under the screw if you wish to not mark the shaft.
Pierre


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## David S (Dec 29, 2013)

pdentrem said:


> David, you could use a set screw or two. Put a piece of lead or brass under the screw if you wish to not mark the shaft.
> Pierre



Yes Pierre and it looks like on Bernard's drawing that is what he is suggesting.  My concern is that it won't hold very well, however not sure yet whether the set screw would land on the smooth shaft or the original threads.

Thank you for the suggestion.

David


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## Dranreb (Dec 29, 2013)

David S said:


> Bernard I took the handle off and looked at how stuff fits together.  As you know the handle drives the shaft via a woodruff key, and the nuts on either side of the handle adjust the end play of the lead screw.
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to attach the extension so it will have a positive drive to the shaft as well as allow for adjustment of the end play.  I really don't want to modify any original parts, and rather not use loctite.  The shaft is only 5/16" with NF thread.
> 
> ...




I showed flat with a grub screw at the end of the extension in my drawing, but in my mind there where two opposite flats to take a spanner, each with a grub screw to grab onto the smooth part of the shaft where the original dial sat, this would most likely be enough as some lathes drive pulleys are held on by no more than that.

But just thought of another maybe better belt and braces design, how about you drill and thread the whole extension piece right through, then,as your original shaft will not reach right through, the keyed part to hold the crank handle could be made from a separate piece of threaded rod. 

If the crank was then fitted to this and it was screwed in until it jams against the end of your original shaft that would be your adjustment locking method. and lock everything up tight, then a nut on the end to hold the crank and it should be OK.

Tighten the grub screws last.

As Pierre says a bit of lead or brass will prevent spreading or damage.

I am waiting on a couple of small needle thrust washer sets to fit to mine, will post pics if it works out OK, anic:

Bernard

Will be happy to draw what I'm suggesting but not right now gotta be elsewhere....


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## David S (Dec 29, 2013)

Bernard, again thank you for your suggestions.  Please don't do a drawing.  I am working from the fixed pointer toward the handle in the part making process and sort of going to adapt and make as I go along.  Just in the process of making the fixed pointer "dial" such that it can be located forward and clear the cross slide.

David


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## Dranreb (Dec 29, 2013)

David, great to know you're making parts...Just a quick thought, the grub screw holes in the flats would not have a lot of thread meaning short screws, they would be better if rotated 90 deg where there's more metal...

Bernard


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## valleyboy101 (Dec 29, 2013)

Hi Bernard,
Nice job!  Did you stamp the numbers by eye or did you use a guide?
Thanks,
Michael


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## Dranreb (Dec 30, 2013)

valleyboy101 said:


> Hi Bernard,
> Nice job!  Did you stamp the numbers by eye or did you use a guide?
> Thanks,
> Michael



Hi Micheal thanks, I stamped the numbers holding the punches in one of those old type tool holders fitted to my QCTP copied from another members method (sorry can't find the post now) I had a problem with a sloppy fit because my punches are metric. I'll mill a tight fitting guide out of ally for next time, just a slot  to lay the punch in with a finger to hold it down should do.
 This and the fact my chuck came loose due to me turning it backwards in order to see where the numbers where at, meant I had to turn it all off to start again which was what I meant by my comment:

'I hope y'all like the way I've stylishly turned down the numbered area, this detail took a while to achieve...:lmao: '

I had changed my chuck during the making of the parts and although I was just moving it slowly by hand and tapping very lightly it came loose and I took a while to notice..

Likewise when scribing the divisions using the dividing disc on my first attempt, at first I had the pointer above the center line as it was easier to see, don't know why but this induced an error somehow, it was OK at the center line no probs.

Bernard


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## David S (Jan 1, 2014)

Bernard et al.  I am about 80% finished my project.  I sort of make a part then proceed to see what needs to happen next, rather than make a big set of plans then go for it.

How did you do the graduations?  I am engraving them, but sure takes time.

Also I am using mainly 6061-T6 aluminum and brass, mainly because that is what I normally work with, and the little atlas is slow going with steel.  I don't have any free machining steel....the L stuff.

If there is some interest I suppose I should start a new thread  "the Little 618 with a BIG dial"?

Happy New Year

David


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## pestilence (Jan 1, 2014)

I'd like to see that.


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## Dranreb (Jan 1, 2014)

Yes David, we do indeed think you should start another thread and that title just needs Atlas in it so folk can find it easily when searching...:thumbzup: 

I used this method of indexing, the size difference eliminates errors very well, I posted a PDF of my numbered version earlier in this thread, you may have missed it.




I cut the graduations using my lever compound (very quick) and a hooked cutter to curl the chips out better.
You could use the same type of tool in your locked compound, just by moving the carriage and using a carriage stop.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/19267-Lever-operated-compound-top-slide




Cutting, practice cuts can be seen on the piece I used to put tailstock pressure on the workpiece to stop any chance of movement.




Turned off the chips




Happy new year 

Bernard


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## David S (Jan 3, 2014)

Dranreb said:


> Yes David, we do indeed think you should start another thread and that title just needs Atlas in it so folk can find it easily when searching...:thumbzup:
> 
> 
> Bernard



Ok Bernard.  Done.  posted in this link

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/19920-Little-Atlas-618-with-a-BIG-cross-feed-dial

David


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## David Pollard (Jan 4, 2014)

Hi Bernard,
You have done a very nice job. I like the split level effect with the numbers 

It looks like there are 4 main pieces to your dial. Is that correct?
would it be possible for you to do a rough sketch with dimminesions? ( free hand would do fine)

This would save me going though the same trial and error process.
My lathe is a 10" hoping yours is the same.

I understand you stuck the PDF printout to a piece of plywood. How did you attach it to the back of the spindle?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.
David


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## Dranreb (Jan 4, 2014)

Now fitted two roller thrust bearings and made a new bush, which make it silky smooth, it feels like a Rolls Royce lathe now...
	

		
			
		

		
	




Had to build up the bearing holder part with weld to get enough depth to machine the housing at the dial end, the bush was worn so made a longer brass one. At the other end just pressed the Oilite bearing in a bit and took off the width of the thrust bearing.







bernard


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## Dranreb (Jan 4, 2014)

pollardd said:


> Hi Bernard,
> You have done a very nice job. I like the split level effect with the numbers
> 
> It looks like there are 4 main pieces to your dial. Is that correct?
> ...



Hi David, The problem with dimensions and drawings it that I have a couple of the Atlas part 10F-46 that are different sized and angles, they can't be relied on to be concentric either!

What I did was to bore a piece of ally to fit the end, then bore a short taper at 10 degrees, take the part out of the chuck and trial fit, mark the length and part it off a little too long, then face it to suit.

To hold the index disc I made an ally plug with a threaded hole in it to fit the spindle, musta got lucky because it was such a good fit it just tapped in place and stayed there.

I'll get some rough dimensions of the rest and have a go at a Sketchup drawing as I'm sort of getting the hang of that now...:bitingnails:

Bernard


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## Ray C (Jan 4, 2014)

Really nice job on the dial and that's a very good idea of making a template and mounting it on the back of the spindle.

And on a humorous note:  -Now be careful not to turn the lathe on with the template in there, you might hypnotize yourself and never snap out of it ...

Ray


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## Dranreb (Jan 4, 2014)

Ray C said:


> Really nice job on the dial and that's a very good idea of making a template and mounting it on the back of the spindle.
> 
> And on a humorous note:  -Now be careful not to turn the lathe on with the template in there, you might hypnotize yourself and never snap out of it ...
> 
> Ray



I'm working on a dial with 365 divisions so I can time travel to find out what happened, because sometimes I get a premonition that I'm about to get deja vous 

Bernard


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## David Pollard (Jan 5, 2014)

Bernard,
Hey I just noticed that there are 200 graduations on the PDF template instead of just 100.
Fantastic soon I won't have to remember to half everything with turning diameters 

What size number stamps did you use?
I'm going to have to buy some as I don't have any.
I should be able to make a stamp guide in my tool post.

I think I skip any Rolls Royce Options and make it as simple as I can.
I'll opt for a grub screw as a locking mechanism to cut down on the number of parts I need to make.

Thanks
David


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## Dranreb (Jan 5, 2014)

The 200 divs was my main reason for making the new dial, it makes things a whole lot easier for me, specially as I haven't been at this lathe driving lark long enough to always remember the halving thing, and not yet got set in my ways! 

Number stamps where 2mm size, 

I'm hoping you have no real need for dimensions now if you're using a grub screw, as I'd rather not have to pull it apart again.

Bernard


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## wnebergall (May 4, 2014)

Bernard
I do not see a pic of the dial by itself.
I would like to do this for my Logan but I am unable to follow how it works exactly 

more advise would be helpful


Bill


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## iron man (May 5, 2014)

Nice job I did something similar to mine it works great!! Thanks for the PDF I will make good use of it how did you lock it in at the end of the spindle??? Thanks .. Ray


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## Dranreb (May 5, 2014)

wnebergall said:


> Bernard
> I do not see a pic of the dial by itself.
> I would like to do this for my Logan but I am unable to follow how it works exactly
> 
> ...



Hi Bill, sorry I have no pic of the dial on it's own but these should make things clearer for you, note the set screw..




The dial is machined to be a snug fit on both diameters of the hub, no too tight as it will be hard to move on a cold morning, the thickness is such that there is clearance between the dial and the part attached to the saddle, and the knurled nut grips the dial before hitting the shoulder of the hub.




After machining the back of the dial I turned it round with the hub in place and crept up on the final shape of the front by trying the nut for finger clearance.

Hope this helps, 

Bernard

- - - Updated - - -



iron man said:


> Nice job I did something similar to mine it works great!! Thanks for the PDF I will make good use of it how did you lock it in at the end of the spindle??? Thanks .. Ray



I just machined a tap in press fit ally arbor long enough to clear the change gears Ray, held the disk to that with a large washer and small bolt.

Bernard


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## Rapscallion (May 5, 2014)

That's pretty nifty Bernard. It gives me ideas for my little 3 in 1' s dials. Thanks for posting this.


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## wnebergall (May 6, 2014)

Thanks Bernard

    This helps a lot I did miss seeing that set screw.
I am in the process of machining the back piece new to screw into the compound and cross slide then adding a dial to fit.
I like the idea of no set screw on the cross slide to get in the way.


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## Dranreb (May 6, 2014)

wnebergall said:


> I like the idea of no set screw on the cross slide to get in the way.



Yes that always seems a bit clunky to me, the knurled type sticking out even more so, but I suppose the accountants have the final say...

Bernard


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## iron man (May 6, 2014)

A very useful article it gives everyone some new ideas good going. Ray


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