# VFD wiring issues- Please help



## Buickgsman (Feb 19, 2013)

I got my VFD today and ran out to wire it up quick just as a test of the motor and lathe and I didnt have good luck.  Can anyone here shed any light on the problem I am having?  The VFD is a TECO JNEV-101-H1.  The display is saying that I have low voltage.  I checked and the incoming volts are 117.  The motor barely spins when the belt is set close to the motor speed.  When the belt is set farthest away from the motor( or with the belt off)  it will spin at a decent clip but it sounds underpowered.  The incoming power is wired into L1, L3 and PE(ground).  The outgoing wires to the motor are wired to T1, T2, T3, and PE(ground).  Thats all I need right?  The wires going out to the motor T1, T2,T3 shouldnt matter where they are on the motor right or does it?  Thats one thing I didnt worry about is the wires coming off of the motor..  or is there a rhyme or reason to which motor terminals the T1, T2, and T3 wires go to.  I'm hoping that is my solution, or I have bigger problems because something isnt right.  Also, most (but not all) of my garage outlets are GFCI protected and the GFCI tripped as soon as I turned the VFD on.  Is that normal or possibly related to whatever problem I am having?  This VFD is being wired to a Clausing 4904 with a 1hp 3 phase Howell electric motor.

Thanks!
Bob


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## Ray C (Feb 19, 2013)

I'm not familiar with the Teco but, have a few thoughts....

If the owner's manual has a troubleshooting guide, see what the possible causes are for that warning message.

Is the motor wired for 440 instead of 220?  Maybe the VFD is sensing out of range current at the motor side and it's trying to tell you the voltage is too low.

It's possible the TECO's input and output voltages must be preset with registers.  It might be set for 220 input and you're supplying 110.  Same thing on the output side.

BTW:  110 is a generalization that means voltages roughly between 110 to 120.


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## Hawkeye (Feb 19, 2013)

What motor do you have? Can you show us a close-up of the motor label? How many wires are there in the motor junction box? Just the three?

There are a lot of factors that go into running a motor. With some more information, we might spot the problem.


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## Buickgsman (Feb 19, 2013)

Thanks for the quick replies guys!  I didnt even consider that the motor could be wired for 440V but I guess that is entirely possible.  I will have to pull the motor out tomorrow and see if I can figure out how it is wired.  If its wired for 440v I will try and rewire it for 220v 3 phase.  I'll report back with more info on the motor and hopefully there are wiring schematics on the motor plate.

Thanks!
Bob


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## arvidj (Feb 19, 2013)

I don't have any experience with that particular VFD. All of mine is with Hitachi VFD's.

I did look at the EV INVERTER SERIES Operating Manual for your VFD.

Based on the model number it is a 110V single phase input drive with the inputs going to L1 and L3 exactly as you have suggested you have yours hooked up.

The three outputs to the motor are T1, T2 and T3 and it does not make any difference that I am aware on how they are initially hooked up. The only reason you would need to change them is if the motor turns "backwards". Then you just need to swap any two and the motor will run "forwards". Again, exactly as you have described.

Several assumptions are being made here.

That the 117 volt wiring is reasonably large. The VFD maximum input current rating is 17.9 amps. Obviously that is when you are generating maximum power but there may be an issue with a large inrush current when you turn it on and the 'just want to test it out' input wiring is not up to the start up current needs. That is just speculation on my part.

That the motor is set up for 220 volt input. Many motors expose multiple windings and can be configured for both low and high voltage ... often thought of as 220 and 440 volt. Given the specified output of your VFD you would want to employ the low voltage\220 volt pattern.

Regretfully it sounds like you 'have it wired correctly'.

Sorry to do nothing other than confirm that fact.


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## Kennyd (Feb 19, 2013)

Link to manual: http://www.twmi.com/products/controls/drives/JNEV/mm_JNEV_Manual_05_08.pdf


-Check the motor voltage as stated, please post a pic of the data plate and wiring diagram if there is one.
-Motor is directly wired to VFD correct? No switches in between!
-Check program F52 is set to 20 for 60hz input.
-Is the error LV or something else?


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## Ulma Doctor (Feb 19, 2013)

Buickgsman said:


> I got my VFD today and ran out to wire it up quick just as a test of the motor and lathe and I didnt have good luck.  Can anyone here shed any light on the problem I am having?  The VFD is a TECO JNEV-101-H1.  The display is saying that I have low voltage.  I checked and the incoming volts are 117.  The motor barely spins when the belt is set close to the motor speed.  When the belt is set farthest away from the motor( or with the belt off)  it will spin at a decent clip but it sounds underpowered.  The incoming power is wired into L1, L3 and PE(ground).  The outgoing wires to the motor are wired to T1, T2, T3, and PE(ground).  Thats all I need right?  The wires going out to the motor T1, T2,T3 shouldnt matter where they are on the motor right or does it?  Thats one thing I didnt worry about is the wires coming off of the motor..  or is there a rhyme or reason to which motor terminals the T1, T2, and T3 wires go to.  I'm hoping that is my solution, or I have bigger problems because something isnt right.  Also, most (but not all) of my garage outlets are GFCI protected and the GFCI tripped as soon as I turned the VFD on.  Is that normal or possibly related to whatever problem I am having?  This VFD is being wired to a Clausing 4904 with a 1hp 3 phase Howell electric motor.
> 
> Thanks!
> Bob



from where to where did you test power on the incoming?
chances are that you are not going to be able to run a 220v 3phase, off of a 120v single phase input unless you have on hell of a vfd.
to run a 220v 3phase motor you most likely will have to start with a input of 220v 1phase power.
the motor can be wired in any combination of T1 T2 T3 , but motor rotation will reverse if any two wires are interchanged.
you may want to take note of the motors start up direction if it is unfavorable, swap any t1,t2,t3. wires the motor will start in that direction unless commanded to reverse.
The GFIC is tripping due to a load the 120v circuit can't supply.
bring over some single phase 220v for your input, she'll fire up!

let me know if i can help out any more, i haven't used that brand of vfd, but i have 2 dozen functioning VFD's in operation as we speak, they aren't hard to figure out!
mike)

dang you apparently have one hell of a vfd to supply 220v 1 hp motor off of 120v, i just read ray's post and then read the manual.
he's right, i'm wrong


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## Ray C (Feb 19, 2013)

Glad you posted the link, Kenny.

It looks like F43 through F47 probably need to be programmed to the motor specifications which you'll find on the motor plate.







Kennyd said:


> Link to manual: http://www.twmi.com/products/controls/drives/JNEV/mm_JNEV_Manual_05_08.pdf
> 
> 
> -Check the motor voltage as stated, please post a pic of the data plate and wiring diagram if there is one.
> ...


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## Ruben (Feb 19, 2013)

Buickgsman said:


> ..snip..  Also, most (but not all) of my garage outlets are GFCI protected and the GFCI tripped as soon as I turned the VFD on.  Is that normal or possibly related to whatever problem I am having?


The GFCI only trips when the "hot" to "neutral" current is slightly (VERY slightly) unbalanced.  If its overload, that is handled by the circuit breaker.  You'll need at least a 20 Amp circuit, and #12 or larger wire for this load to the VFD.  I'd suggest a dedicated circuit, if possible.  GFCI's tend to false trip when the waveform gets deformed, and VFD's tend to fees a LOT of distortion back into the electric line.

Of course, this isn't your main issue at this time. Sorry I can't help on the VFD, I've not run into a 120 volt VFD powering a 220 volt motor.  Silly me, I thought we had to use 220 input for that.  (don't put 220 on your 120 VFD, the smoke will get out!)

Edit: Yup, just looked, that 120V VFD will power a 220V three phase load.  Amazing!  That's just TOO cool!

Ruben


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## Ray C (Feb 20, 2013)

FWIW, I've had GFCI's in the kitchen trip for all kinds of weird reasons...  Usually happens when the blender and microwave are on at the same time.  They seem to be sensitive to conducted noise emission (back-volgage in the lines).





Ruben said:


> The GFCI only trips when the "hot" to "neutral" current is slightly (VERY slightly) unbalanced. If its overload, that is handled by the circuit breaker. You'll need at least a 20 Amp circuit, and #12 or larger wire for this load to the VFD. I'd suggest a dedicated circuit, if possible. GFCI's tend to false trip when the waveform gets deformed, and VFD's tend to fees a LOT of distortion back into the electric line.
> 
> Of course, this isn't your main issue at this time. Sorry I can't help on the VFD, I've not run into a 120 volt VFD powering a 220 volt motor. Silly me, I thought we had to use 220 input for that. (don't put 220 on your 120 VFD, the smoke will get out!)
> 
> ...


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## Ray C (Feb 20, 2013)

One last thing to think about...  On all my VFD, each requires that you specify (by programming the registers) the desired input voltage and incoming frequency.  These things are designed to work in many counties where the input voltage could be 110, 220, 50Hz or 60Hz.  You have to tell it what is being supplied.  (With additional circuitry, they could determine that automatically but for cost saving, they make the user manually enter the values).

I'm swamped at the moment and can't look at the manual but, do look it over for those parameters... It's possible though that yours automatically senses input parameters.

If all this fails then, it's also possible (as others have noted) that your feed line is too long and is dropping voltage when load is applied.  12ga stranded wire would help that situation.  When circuits start getting longer than about 75' (roughly) these types of problems can start to appear -especially when you're pulling more than 10-15 amps.


Ray


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## PurpLev (Feb 20, 2013)

what circuit/breaker are you running this off of? 15Amp? 20Amp?

running a 220V 3PH motor off of a 120v input can be done up to a 1HP motor - which is what you have, that means you are maxing the capability of a VFD running off of 120 and that means it requires as much Amp on that circuit as can be. if this is running on a 15Amp circuit and if that circuit is feeding other devices/lights/etc than you may not have enough juice left on the input to power up that motor via that VFD

just a thought. can you try setting that VFD no it's own 20Amp breaker?


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## Buickgsman (Feb 20, 2013)

I confirmed the VFD was wired properly and looked at the parameters mentioned and fired it up and it did improve slightly but it did throw a code and stalled.  I called tech support which was fantastic and he informed me that the VFD is only good to around 3.2 amps.  My 1hp motor  is 4.2 amps so it is drawing more than the drive will allow.  SO, it looks like I need a new motor.  While it was spinning at full speed I did notice that the bearings are a bit noisy.  I had put oil in the cups a few weeks ago and sun it, but they were empty again today.  Any suggestions on quieting down those bearings?    Once I decided the 1hp motor in the lathe was too amp hungry, I wired the VFD to a 1/2 hp motor I had laying around and it worked great so I know the VFD is good and I am looking forward to getting a proper motor mounted up.


I just rechecked the specs of the VFD and it says it is good up to 4.2 amps...  so I dont know what gives.  I will have to call tech support again tomorrow before I throw down money on a new motor. Maybe I do have a problem somewhere in the motor that is causing the VFD to stall out.  Also, In response to the idea that I have current drain due to improper cord sizing.....  I have to admit that I have the VFD wired with a 12ga cord and that is plugged into a smaller gauge extension cord.  Ploblem is that I dont have an un-GFCI outlet around the lathe that doesnt pop when I start it up.  Very frustrating....


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## PurpLev (Feb 20, 2013)

the JNEV-101-H1 is rated for up to 1Hp motor or 4.2Amp constant torque - like I mentioned, this is what your motor is rated at so you are drawing the max out of that VFD (usually not a good idea, even though it is doable). combine that with the smaller extension cables and circuits and there are too many 'what ifs' that might be happening due to trying to pull max amp on the entire setup. as you notice with a smaller motor this was not the case. 

Do you have a 220v 1ph outlet around? you could up your VFD to the next size up that can support up to 2 or 3Hp motors and over 220v the Amp draw will be lower so you won't be running into the same issues. probably cheaper than replacing the motor itself (unless the motor is failing and really calls out to be replaced)


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## Buickgsman (Feb 20, 2013)

I GOT IT i GOT IT i GOT IT WOOOO HOOOO!   

So I went out to the garage because the 4.2 amp thing was bothering me and so was the smaller(16ga) extension cord.  I tried to eliminate the extension cord but all I have out in the garage is GFCI outlets which pop as soon as the VFD is turned on.  SO i looked at all of the parameters again and one stood out.  Kenny gets the big THANK YOU for hitting the problem on the head... and I should have looked at this earlier.  The VFD wasnt set to 020 to indicate 60hz.  I did ask the tech support guy about it and he said not to even bother looking because North American units come pre programmed set to 60hz- WRONG.  it was set to 000.  SO Kenny, thanks again, and thanks to all who helped with this thread.  I'm sure I will have more questions as I go but at least now I know the motor will work.

Bob


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## Hawkeye (Feb 20, 2013)

Bob, does that outlet _need_ to be GFCI protected? If not , you can change it to a normal circuit. If the breaker is the GFI, change it to a normal one. If the receptacle is GFI, change it to a normal one.

As mentioned, the circuit should be 20 amp, but _only_ if the wire is #12 AWG. If it's #14, keep it at 15 amp. If you are going 20 amp, make sure the receptacle is rated for it. It will look like a regular 15 amp one, but with a T-shaped slot on the neutral side.


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## Kennyd (Feb 20, 2013)

Good deal Bob, keep us updated!


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## Ray C (Feb 20, 2013)

Woo Hoo!  Glad it's working.  




Kennyd said:


> Good deal Bob, keep us updated!


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