# New PM 932 Mill



## Plinker (May 2, 2014)

After reading a lot on this forum about the PM machines I went and ordered a new 932-pdf from Matt and stated the wait clock.  Well rather than tie up Matt with a bunch of questions I decided to ask the knowledgeable folks here.

Are there any supplies I will need for the start up of the mill such as lubricants and other miscellaneous things other guys wished they had when their mill arrived? 

 Also, I would like to build a stand with wheels and something to level the mill with such as some of the other guys have built.  What type of steel should I use?

This will be my first mill and I am hopeful it will be suitable for me for a long time.

Appreciate all the information I have gathered from everyone here so far.

Steve


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## zmotorsports (May 2, 2014)

Good choice on dealers and on machines.  I had too ordered the PM-932PDF from Matt about five/six weeks ago.  Good thing is the shipment should be in within the next couple of weeks so you shouldn't have to wait too awfully long.  

As far as tools equipment, a good mill vise is invaluable, along with an assortment of parallels.  A good selection of end mills to start with with either collets or end mill holders.  Personally, I prefer collets up to the 5/8" or 7/8" then from there up I prefer the end mill holders for more aggressive removal as the set screw is more of a positive lock on the end mill.

I would also recommend a good dial indication along with both a spindle mound and a magnetic mount.  For lubrication on that gear head machine I was told either ISO 32 or ISO 68. I had purchased ISO 68 due to shop temperature.  A 2" boring head and a drill chuck for starters, will may find a larger boring bar is necessary down the road such as a 3" but the 2" seems to be the most reached for one.

That should be a good start and I am sure many others will point out things I have forgotten.  Remember the machine is the cheap part.:whistle:

Mike.


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## Walt (May 2, 2014)

zmotorsports said:


> ...and a drill chuck for starters...
> 
> Mike.



FWIW, my PM932 came with a 1/2" (13mm?) drill chuck. Also, a shell mill holder.

Walt


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## Thomas Paine (May 2, 2014)

don't forget to add a lathe.


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## Plinker (May 2, 2014)

Thanks for the replies guys, man that was fast!

As for the oil I would assume the hotter it is in your shop you would go with ISO 68?  Also how many gallons should I have on hand?

I went ahead and ordered the milling package from Matt as well so that should get me going with some collets and a vise( went with the upgraded 5").

Matt told me it would be around seven week wait for the machine but if its less than that I should get busy gathering.

Steve


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## Ray C (May 2, 2014)

Plinker said:


> Thanks for the replies guys, man that was fast!
> 
> As for the oil I would assume the hotter it is in your shop you would go with ISO 68?  Also how many gallons should I have on hand?
> 
> ...



Hi...

The gearbox takes about 1 gallon.  I run ISO 68 all year round in both the PM1236 and PM45 (same machine as a 932) and its fine all year round.  My shop is heated but only to 55-60 in the winter.  If it gets colder than that, the lathe will run a little bit slow for about 30 seconds then it's fine.  You don't need to worry too much about the lube getting around inside that splash system.  The instant you turn it on at any speed, the oil is splashing in there quite vigorously.  If you have the lathe, don't ever run it with the lid open unless you feel like cleaning oil off your ceiling.

...  Many lathes are going out right now.  I've sent several email notifications with tracking numbers.  I always feel like Santa Clause when I send those emails...

Ray


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## Plinker (May 2, 2014)

Thanks for the gearbox capacity Ray.

I saw in another post that that you recommended against the 5 inch vise, which is the one I ordered. Should I change it to the 4 inch model?

What sort of lube do you guys recommend for the ways?  I was thinking of going with the Mobil Vactra 2 stuff.

Steve


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## Ratz (May 3, 2014)

Congratulations on your purchase, Steve.
<O</O
I have the same mill with 5” vise and it suits me fine. I guess it is a personal choice. 4” vise would be too small for me. You can always clamp a small part in bigger vise, but not other way around.
<O</O
I use Vactra 2 oil with 5 to 10% STP well mixed. on my lathe and mill ways.

<O</O


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## dave2176 (May 3, 2014)

Get the Vactra 2 in a 5 gallon bucket. Enco usually has a good price and free shipping.

Also get a gallon of WD40 and a spray bottle.  It's a good degreaser for cleaning the new machine and using when cutting aluminum. 

Dave


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## Lynrob (May 3, 2014)

I too recently got a PM932-PDF mill and, like you, I ordered a 5" vice.  What I discovered is that not only is the 5" wider than the 4", it is also deeper. With the vice mounted in the center t-slot you cannot move the table forward far enough to get the spindle over the fixed jaw. I currently have the vice mounted in the front t-slot but now the spindle can go toward the back about an inch or so past the fixed jaw which means you lose that much travel at the front of the vice. I also think that if I was milling something heavy, I'd rather have the work's weight centered over the table rather than hanging off the front. It just seems more stable that way.  It's not the end of the world, but if I was doing it over again I'd get the 4" vice.  From what I can tell, it fits the table better.

Lyn


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## Ray C (May 3, 2014)

Even the 4" vise is pretty massive and often times, I find it best to mount "in-line" with the table (jaws perpendicular to slots) to better utilize space.  Everyone has their preferences and reasons.  All I can say is that 2/3 of my clients who purchased the 5" later told me they should have gone with the 4" unit.

I used up all my vactra 2 and have about 2.5 gallons of #4.  #4 works best on vertical ways and it actually stays put for a while.  I use it everywhere on all the machines now.  Which one you use is less important than just remembering to use it regularly.


Ray


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## Plinker (May 3, 2014)

Well it looks like I should go with the smaller 4 inch vise then.  I can always get a bigger one if I need it but for just starting out it sounds to me like the 4 inch one will do what I need it to do.

I guess I'll get an order together on Enco for some way/machine oil, WD-40 and look at some boring bars as Mike suggested.

Thanks again for all the help.

Steve


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## Ray C (May 3, 2014)

A couple more things to consider...

By removing one (or even both) of the jaws of 4" vise, you can get up to 5" of clamping space.  If you do remove jaws, don't attempt to hold items smaller than about 1.5" wide as, the main screw will only be engaged by a few threads and heavy pressure will damage them. 

With a 5" vise, it's very hard to use two vises simultaneously (which is something I do quite frequently).  If you need to face a plate, say 8" long, you can't hold it with one vise because the 2" of overhang on each side of the piece will rattle like crazy and you'll never get a good finish.  In such cases, I put two vises next to each other and use both.  Part stays nice and firm that way.  With a 5" vise, they are so wide at the base, you can't get them very close to each other and an 8" piece can't be held with two vises because it will belly in the center when the cutter goes over the top.  Finish will go out the window.

Also, I like to mention to shift the position of your vise around every few weeks from left, center to right as this will prevent long term wear on the mill in one spot.

A 5" vise is more appropriate (in my opinion) for a 935 knee mill.  The full size mills do OK with 6" vises.  If you do get a 5" vise for a 932, you could remove the swivel base or, keep the swivel base and make an offset adapter.  A lot of folks don't like swivel bases but, their comments might be based on poor quality units.  The ones that Matt carries are pretty good value for the money and I get a lot of mileage out of the swivel base.

By carefully shimming a piece from the rear jaw, I've used the swivel many times like a rotary table to cut semi-circles, circular pockets etc.


Ray


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## 09kevin (May 3, 2014)

While you are shopping at Enco you might want to order a clamp set and an edge finder.

Kevin


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## Plinker (May 4, 2014)

Kevin-I have a clamping kit coming from Matt and I already have the edge finder.

Thanks for the other tips on the vise Ray, I think I will email Matt tomorrow and change the order to the 4 inch model as you as Lyn suggest.

Thanks,
Steve


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## Rbeckett (May 4, 2014)

Safety Glasses, fire extinguishers and a fire plan in effect before the mill arrives.  Then the sky id really the limit on tooling.  I shopped around and picked up ball end and square end mills along with Indexable carbide bit whenever I found I was commonly using that particular cutter,  After a couple of weeks or playing with the machine you will settle onto the most commonly used items and don't skimp on them because they are going to be around for a long time to come.  Welcome to the addiction and enjoy as much as possible along the way!!!

Bob


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## Plinker (May 5, 2014)

Check and double check on the fire plan and extinguisher.
Called and changed my order to the 4 inch vise and have a some oil on the way from Enco so I'm making some progress.

Does anybody have any thoughts on the Shop Fox mobile machine base (1300# model)?  http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-D2058A-Adjustable-Mobile/dp/B005W0RHA4/ref=pd_cp_hi_1
I was thinking about this instead of building one.

Thanks,
Steve


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## GA Gyro (Aug 13, 2014)

Plinker said:


> Check and double check on the fire plan and extinguisher.
> Called and changed my order to the 4 inch vise and have a some oil on the way from Enco so I'm making some progress.
> 
> Does anybody have any thoughts on the Shop Fox mobile machine base (1300# model)?  http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-D2058A-Adjustable-Mobile/dp/B005W0RHA4/ref=pd_cp_hi_1
> ...



That does look like a nice base... albeit a bit on the light side for 1300#... Castors do not hold as much weight as they are rated for.
The frame might work, albeit with a bit of reinforcement.


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## Plinker (Aug 13, 2014)

After looking at the stand on Amazon I agree it did look a little weak so I decided to build my own as others have out of 2x2 square steel pipe. 
I just received the mill today as a matter of fact and it feels great to have it sitting in my garage I must say.  It made the trip in one piece with just a couple minor problems that are already being addressed by Matt and Nicole after a quick email.
 I hope to get the stand welded together tomorrow and maybe hoist it up onto it next week, man is this thing heavy.

Steve


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## Smudgemo (Aug 14, 2014)

Photos, please.  I love watching projects unfold (or even unpacking photos for now.)

-Ryan


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## Plinker (Aug 23, 2014)

Well I have the mill up on the stand finally and its all level and trammed the best I could do for a rookie.  I had to put .006 worth of shims under the column bolts closest to the table and it looks to be perfect now.  The X axis is another story, everytime I get it within .001 and tighten up the three nuts its out by .005 or more, guess I know what my first project is going to be.  Have to find that thread on the tramming aid.  
The lift up onto the stand weant off without a hitch as I borrowed all the lifting equipment from work(mobile gantry crane, 1 ton chain fall, shackles, and lifting straps) and did it all by myself.
:happyhappy:I didn't get any pictures of the install but maybe I can take some shots of it all set up when I figure out how to post pictures.


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## zmotorsports (Aug 23, 2014)

Congrats on getting it all up and running.

However, we need pictures to prove it.:impatient:  I believe there is a thread here specifically explaining how to post pictures.

I use a photo hosting site, upload the picture and then merely copy and paste into the body of the message.  Some people use the attachment feature but whatever your choice.  Posting into the body usually posts slightly larger pictures and there is no need to have to open the smaller items but it is your decision.

Mike.


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## Plinker (Aug 26, 2014)

Wow 3 days have passed since my last post, man how time flies! Here are some pics of the new machine. Now just have to get some days off from work to make some chips.


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## zmotorsports (Aug 26, 2014)

Machine looks great all set up.  Nice job on the stand.

Is that a 4" vise you have on the table?

Mike.


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## GA Gyro (Aug 26, 2014)

I see you ordered the 'high end' DRO...

When you get to making chips, Would you mind posting and tell us about the features and special things of that unit, THX!


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## darkzero (Aug 26, 2014)

I have the ES-12 on my mill also. The ES-8A (had that before also) can pretty much do the same thing the ES-12 can do. The ES-12 is just a graphical display so it's much more easier to use for the special functionsto because of the visuals. I love mine & it's well worth it IMO.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=9885&page=3&p=105433&viewfull=1#post105433


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## Plinker (Aug 27, 2014)

Mike-- Yes it is a 4", I had ordered the 5" but changed my mind after reading some of the comments about it maybe being a little oversize. I decided to go with the 4" first and see how it works out and see if I need somethinig bigger.


Haven't used the DRO much yet as the manual that came with the mill was for the ES-8 model, but Matt is aware of it and has one in the mail already. Once I get it figured out I'll let you know what I think of it. It will be my fist(so is the machine) so I don't really have anything to compare it with. I bought it because of the graphical screen on it and thought it looked cool:whistle:

Steve


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## zmotorsports (Aug 27, 2014)

Great, thanks Steve.  I purchased a 5" Glacern when I ordered my PM932PDF and was waffling back and forth between 4" and 5".  I then changed my order to the PM935TV so I figured it would be the perfect size for that machine.

As far as DRO, I too ordered the ES-8A (3-axis) with my mill.  I considered the ES-12 but after reading that it does pretty much the same things just displayed better/differently I decided I had already spent more than my original budget so I had better not push my luck on funds.

Mike.


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## Jay-z (Aug 29, 2014)

When I received my 932 it had the ES-8 DRO installed on it but was sent with the instruction manual for the ES-12. I found that the functions for the two readouts are identical and the book I received worked just fine.  The instructions are the same, I just don't have the fancy screen to look at.     Jay


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## Falcon67 (Aug 29, 2014)

I have a similar square column - you'll like using that machine.  Last years science project for my grand son's 7th grade was a trebuchet using rubber bands and such.  We did all the drilling on the mill even though it was just wood parts and accuracy wasn't much required.  He had a great time doing it.

If you have a drill press, buy it a TV because it'll have very little to do now except sit around.


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## Plinker (Aug 31, 2014)

Well I got a little machine time today doing some milling and drilling on some scrap aluminum and trying to get a feel for the tool.  Being this is my first machine everything seemed to work well while was milling some slots and taking .100 bites the machine seemed very solid. 
 I do have a question though for all you pm 932 owners.  While I was drilling I noticed a lot of play/backlash in the quill.  I measured .003 play in the quill by extending the quill all the way out and the pushing it up with my hand while holding the handle down.  I got the measurement off the little quill DRO.  Is this normal play for the quill?  And can you adjust it?

Steve


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## zmotorsports (Sep 1, 2014)

Plinker said:


> Well I got a little machine time today doing some milling and drilling on some scrap aluminum and trying to get a feel for the tool.  Being this is my first machine everything seemed to work well while was milling some slots and taking .100 bites the machine seemed very solid.
> I do have a question though for all you pm 932 owners.  While I was drilling I noticed a lot of play/backlash in the quill.  I measured .003 play in the quill by extending the quill all the way out and the pushing it up with my hand while holding the handle down.  I got the measurement off the little quill DRO.  Is this normal play for the quill?  And can you adjust it?
> 
> Steve



You will get some movement because the quill is a rack and pinion style of gear feed.  There is some clearance between the teeth.  If you use the quill lock you shouldn't have any movement once it is locked into position.

Mike.


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## Plinker (Sep 1, 2014)

Thanks for the reply Mike.  Yes, the quill is rock solid once it is locked and I'm milling. But when I'm drilling I can't have the quill locked and if i'm going for a certain depth it makes it hard with that .003 of play.  Guess I will just have to deal with it and make allowences.

Steve


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## zmotorsports (Sep 1, 2014)

Maybe I misunderstood Steve, is the play side to side of the quill ram or up and down?  If side to side then there is something not right.  I thought you were talking up and down on the quill which would be the rack and pinion gear setup for the quill.

Mike.


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## Plinker (Sep 1, 2014)

No Mike you have it correct, the movement is in the up/down direction due to the rack and pinion gearing no side to side movement.

Steve


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## tmarks11 (Sep 1, 2014)

That play in the quill is normal.  Even a $16k bridgeport knee mill suffers from that.  Actually, 0.003" is pretty respectable. Without that gear backlash, it would be difficult to operate.

It is hard to get an accurate DOC using a quill, which is why on a knee mill you make all precision moves with the knee instead of the quill. 

If your hole has a critical DOC that you start by plunging with the quill, stopping about 0.020" shy of final depth, than raise and lock the quill, and dial the knee up (in your case the head down) to final depth.  Why? Because it is a PIA to use the knee (head) for drilling, as it gives you no feedback while you are cutting, and you really want a peck motion to keep the hole clear.

Nice looking mill, btw.  I like it.


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## John Hasler (Sep 1, 2014)

tmarks11 said:


> That play in the quill is normal.  Even a $16k bridgeport knee mill suffers from that.  Actually, 0.003" is pretty respectable. Without that gear backlash, it would be difficult to operate.
> 
> It is hard to get an accurate DOC using a quill, which is why on a knee mill you make all precision moves with the knee instead of the quill.



For drilling my Avey has a counterweight that pulls up on the quill taking up the backlash and an adjustable micrometer stop to set the depth.  This allows me to drill accurately to .001".  It doesn't help when milling, though.


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## lfhamilt (Nov 25, 2014)

Well guys ... I am fairly new to the site, and have been lurking around the edges ... reading and studying up on the best mill to get for my needs, really enjoying your posts ... the information has been great, and everyone seems much more experienced than I, but I'm excited to learn and begin the process.

So, given all the information, I just got off the phone with Matt at QMT after placing my order for a new PM-932M and expect to receive it next week sometime ... so excited !!!

Stay tuned for all the questions ... :bitingnails:


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## zmotorsports (Nov 25, 2014)

lfhamilt said:


> Well guys ... I am fairly new to the site, and have been lurking around the edges ... reading and studying up on the best mill to get for my needs, really enjoying your posts ... the information has been great, and everyone seems much more experienced than I, but I'm excited to learn and begin the process.
> 
> So, given all the information, I just got off the phone with Matt at QMT after placing my order for a new PM-932M and expect to receive it next week sometime ... so excited !!!
> 
> Stay tuned for all the questions ... :bitingnails:




Congratulations on your purchase.  When it arrives make sure to post up some pictures of it so we can all drool over it.  We like pictures.


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