# craftsman 150 drill press



## Doug66 (Jun 9, 2014)

when I bought this press 15 yrs ago the chuck and key were taped to the table, I put the chuck in seated it but now 15 yrs later I need to remove the chuck so I can straighten the quill.
there is no slot to use a wedge in, just a thrust collar on the bottom of the shaft. has anyone removed theirs ? if so how did you do it please


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## Don B (Jun 9, 2014)

Is it a MT? Can you show a picture of it? someone might be able to help if they can see what's going on, is there a through hole in the spindle you can put a rod down and tap it out that way?


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## chips&more (Jun 9, 2014)

Could you also please tell us why you would want to straighten the quill?


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## NightWing (Jun 9, 2014)

Look between the quill face and the chuck.  If the tapered arbor has a step, you can insert a drift between the arbor step and the quill and give it a rap with a hammer.


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## Doug66 (Jun 9, 2014)

yes its an mt2or3 taper, I will get pics of it today. the reason I want to straighten is looking through e-bay an craigs list these parts are hard to find, its not a sever bend but just enough to have the end of the drill bit wobble which removes any accuracy. I have lowered the stem or quill and no slot or hole. I will get a few pics of this and try to post today

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NightWing said:


> Look between the quill face and the chuck.  If the tapered arbor has a step, you can insert a drift between the arbor step and the quill and give it a rap with a hammer.



yes there is a step I used a pig fork but to no avail, I don't want to use heat unless its a last resort


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## chips&more (Jun 9, 2014)

I would first suspect the drill chuck for that wobble you see. Change the chuck first and see if the wobble is gone. Buy a good quality chuck, like a Jacobs chuck brand…Good Luck.


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## mikey (Jun 9, 2014)

If the gap between the chuck and quill is large enough you can use a bearing separator to pop it off.


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## schor (Jun 9, 2014)

I too would suspect the chuck before the spindle for runout. Get a pick of what you have. There are various ways to get the chuck and or morse taper out of the quill.

I found a pic on the web for that press and it shows the slot through the quill and spindle to knock out the mt arbor.


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## 12bolts (Jun 9, 2014)

I agree, there should be a slot. Pull the quill down 4-5", AND rotate the chuck. You will need to line up the slot in the quill with the slot in the spindle.
Check for a through hole vertically from the top pulley right down through the spindle, you may be able to knock it out that way. If so make sure you support the quill from below before flogging on it.

Cheers Phil


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## John Hasler (Jun 9, 2014)

12bolts said:


> I agree, there should be a slot. Pull the quill down 4-5", AND rotate the chuck. You will need to line up the slot in the quill with the slot in the spindle.
> 
> Cheers Phil



That's how my 15" Craftsman drill press is built.


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## Andre (Jun 9, 2014)

Look at the bottom right hand corner of page 4.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/1519.pdf


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## Doug66 (Jun 10, 2014)

Andre said:


> Look at the bottom right hand corner of page 4.
> 
> http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/1519.pdf



mine has that collar, I tried using it but was afraid to put too much pressure on it, don't want to break anything lol.


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## chips&more (Jun 10, 2014)

Not all drill presses have a quick disconnect at the drive spindle business end. I had a 60’s Craftsman drill press with a male Jarno taper and a threaded collar and that collar went over all of that connection to hold it together. That set-up made it hard for me to find attachments that would fit! It was a sole source business for Sears at the time! “Andre” attached a manual that shows another example of a male Jarno taper for mounting. Yes, if you see elongated slots in the quills side and through the drive spindle then I would suspect a Morse or some kind of removable male taper. I have not seen nor heard, but I suppose there are threaded mount ones out there too. Actually, come to think about it, my mag base drill press has a threaded mount. If you have the Jarno male mount you will need wedges to get the chuck off. Do not try this without the wedges. You will more than likely  wind up with an unrestorable mess without them. The link below should better explain my feeble attempt…Good Luck.
http://www.jacobschuck.com/drill-chuck-install.asp


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## Doug66 (Jun 10, 2014)

ok I have the pics, I hope you will be able to see them


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## chips&more (Jun 10, 2014)

If my memory serves me correctly? You have that threaded collar affair like I explained above. That collar you see with the shallow holes in it. I think it has RH internal threads. Try and turn it with a spanner, lube it first…Good Luck.


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## Don B (Jun 10, 2014)

If that collar is not for retaining anything I'm wondering if it was intended as an extractor in place of a drift key:thinking:


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## chips&more (Jun 10, 2014)

Don B said:


> If that collar is not for retaining anything I'm wondering if it was intended as an extractor in place of a drift key:thinking:




It holds it all together and maybe helps disconnect too, can not remember. Sears sold many attachments for the drill press back then, like the planner head. I think the engineers wanted to make sure that nothing flew off under power, like the planner head. That would hurt! So maybe they came up with the threaded collar idea?

Edit:The vintage 60’s Craftsman drill press that I had came with a 6” quill travel. I have looked at many a drill press since then and that feature is hard to find! I remember the 6” travel coming in handy when I was drilling out a Model A crank for oil presser!


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## Don B (Jun 10, 2014)

chips&more said:


> It holds it all together and yes helps disconnect too. Sears sold many attachments for the drill press back then, like the planner head. I think the engineers wanted to make sure that nothing flew off under power, like the planner head. That would hurt! So maybe they came up with the threaded collar idea?



Yes that makes sense, and as you said some penetrating oil on it for a bit and see if the collar will loosen up, I'd put something like a C shape between the collar and the chuck though so as much as the thread stays engaged as possible if trying to use it as an extractor.)


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## Doug66 (Jun 10, 2014)

i'll give it another try with using a c- clip as a spacer, will let y'all know what happens


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## chips&more (Jun 10, 2014)

I just found this ebay listing of the chuck/mounting in question. The pictures will hopefully help you figure out what is going on...Good Luck.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jacobs-633C...5?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item540a8d372d

Edit: Not understanding your C-Clip idea? Please look at the ebay pictures, especially the far right one. Get a spanner wrench that fits, lube up the area, lock the quill and then turn and pray. Or is it pray and turn? Sometimes, swearing helps too! Anyway, please take note on its RH threads and the direction you need to turn for removal.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jun 10, 2014)

that looks just like the set up on my WT drill press. The idea is that unscrewing that collar should force the chuck off the male taper which is part of the spindle. That didn't work so well for me as I don't think it had been removed for ~60 years, so I made a couple of tapered wedges (easier to buy them, but I was too tight):













and then either used a C-clamp or a small drill press vise to squeeze them together between the chuck and the collar. Took a scary amount of force, but it popped off. Now it's easy to use the collar, which also retains a Craftsman collet chuck that George Wilson gave me for "milling".


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## Doug66 (Jun 10, 2014)

if the oiling and c-clip doesn't work I have a bearing splitter I may try, same as your wedges but with 5/8 bolts and nuts that should give enough force to remove it, at least I hope it will :thinking:


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## schor (Jun 10, 2014)

After seeing the pics it looks like you have the collar which is used to removed the chuck. Put a spanner wrench on it and start turning, it should pop the chuck off.


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## AR1911 (Jun 12, 2014)

NightWing said:


> Look between the quill face and the chuck.  If the tapered arbor has a step, you can insert a drift between the arbor step and the quill and give it a rap with a hammer.



my DP has the same chuck.
mine won't come off either
  spanner, pickle forks,  bearing splitters......tried all that.  Now I am going to heat it and smack it
i may also just leave the collar loose and just use it until it falls off


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