# Got me a Heavy 10



## tk1971 (Aug 20, 2022)

I just joined the club.  I picked up this 1939-1940 Heavy 10.

It came with 1/2 hp 3ph motor wired up to a VFD plus the original 110v 1/2 hp motor along with the FWD/REV switch (removed when the VFD was installed).

It also came with the taper attachment (telescopic) that was missing part of the mounting hardware so those parts were recreated and the collet attachment, though  it’s missing the sleeve.

It has a 3-jaw chuck, tailstock, and has a single tumbler QCGB.

I had to re-think where to put it as my garage has a ramp that I couldn’t get the lathe up and over it.  I’m now thinking it should go next to the mill.

I’m contemplating disassembling it to clean it up and replace the oil wicks, as I came across a kit on Amazon. 

Swing 10
Length of bed 4
Cat # 187 A
Ser 102642
Letters on the bed D.W.W. and L.Q.R.

Anyway, here are some pictures.


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## Ben17484 (Aug 20, 2022)

Nice looking machine 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Aukai (Aug 20, 2022)

Score


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## Jmp50 (Aug 20, 2022)

Congrats!....still looking for a clean heavy 10 myself.


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## great white (Aug 20, 2022)

Fine home shop machine. You should be pleased with it once up and running.


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## Janderso (Aug 20, 2022)

That is great.
I hope it comes with a tailstock. The taper attachment adds value for sure. Any tooling?
Enjoy.


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## piper184 (Aug 20, 2022)

Looks good. Let the fun begin!


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## woodchucker (Aug 20, 2022)

nice score... OMG, that little trailer .. glad your trailer made it home 
New felts are definitely in order.


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## FOMOGO (Aug 20, 2022)

Looks to be in pretty decent shape. Nice. Mike


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## tk1971 (Aug 20, 2022)

Janderso said:


> That is great.
> I hope it comes with a tailstock. The taper attachment adds value for sure. Any tooling?
> Enjoy.


The tailstock was removed during transport.  It comes with a dead center.  There’s one cutter on the tool post.  No steady rest either.

I was thinking my first project will be making a MT-2 to Jacobs tapered arbor.


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## tk1971 (Aug 20, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> nice score... OMG, that little trailer .. glad your trailer made it home
> New felts are definitely in order.


The little trailer had me worried too.  That’s why I tried to find something local (about 10 miles away).

The trailer has been reinforced (structurally) and has been upgraded with a thicker plywood floor.  In stock form, max load weight was 1000 lbs.

I even modify a pallet to fit the bed of the trailer and bolted the lathe to it first.  The pallet itself was strapped down in two directions during transport as well as the lathe itself.

The trip back was all streets at 35 MPH or slower.

I was glad I made it.


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## Jim F (Aug 20, 2022)

Sure hope you didn't bend that leadscrew.


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## Janderso (Aug 20, 2022)

woodchucker said:


> nice score... OMG, that little trailer .. glad your trailer made it home
> New felts are definitely in order.


You know when you are driving down the highway and you see abandoned small trailers with the spindle supporting one side??
Yeah, kind of like that.


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## tk1971 (Aug 20, 2022)

Jim F said:


> Sure hope you didn't bend that leadscrew.


(Edited for clarity) It was strapped at the bridge between the ways and also strapped down at the the motor housing through the metal cabinet doors.  I read about not bending the lead screw.


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## Jim F (Aug 20, 2022)

tk1971 said:


> It was strapped at the bridge between the ways and the motor housing.  I read about not bending the lead screw.


Tailstock end.


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## Winegrower (Aug 21, 2022)

Nice find.  Please somebody, what feature(s) signifies the “heavy” identification.


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## tk1971 (Aug 21, 2022)

Jim F said:


> Tailstock end.


I was re-reading my post and I could see how it’s not conveying what I did.  Hopefully this picture shows what I’m trying to describe.


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## hudstr (Aug 21, 2022)

Winegrower said:


> Nice find.  Please somebody, what feature(s) signifies the “heavy” identification.


There were two 10" models, the 10k nicknamed light 10, and 10L nicknamed heavy 10. The 10k is more like a 9" upsized, whereas the heavy 10 is more like a smaller 13". The heavy 10 is heavier hence the nickname. The apron is double walled to support the gears at both ends instead of the single wall 10k. I think the bed on the heavy 10 is wider but don't quote me, someone else please correct if I'm wrong. The spindle bore on the heavy 10 is 1 3/8" compared to the 7/8" of the 10k. Heavy 10 has tapered gibs. Better quality improvements here and there over the 10k because it was a more expensive machine.

There was also briefly a 10R model which was the same as the 10L (heavy 10) but without the larger spindle bore.


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## Canuck75 (Aug 21, 2022)

Nice machine. I notice that the bed is fairly open. I have a 1963 10" toolroom SB and the bed is fully latticed, very strong but often clogs up with chips. Not sure when SB changed the design.


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## tk1971 (Aug 21, 2022)

Made room and put the lathe in place.

Waiting for the rebuild kit (felts/oil wicks) with book.  Also waiting for the SB How to Run a Lathe book to arrive as well.

Since I haven’t wired up the original 110v motor, I started taking things apart for a general cleaning with my go-to rust remover (Ed’s Red).  During the process, I noticed that on the Telescoping Taper Attachment, I can’t line up both Taper in Inches and Taper in Degrees scales to zero.  After some thought, I disassembled and flipped the two scales so that Taper in Inches is closer to the tailstock and that fixed the problem.

In addition, I removed the 3-jaw chuck with a strap tool and tried to install the collet adapter (just to see how things work).  Aside from missing the collet sleeve, it seems like I’m also missing some parts at the back of the head and the drawbar is a little long so it appears I’m missing some hardware.

It also appears I’m missing a few oil cover set-screws, a spring loaded lid for one of the oilers and a knob on the apron.  This is my first lathe and I’m waiting for the books/parts list to arrive, so if someone can tell me more about the missing knob, maybe I can make one (please see pic with location of missing part circled in red).

Thanks.


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## piper184 (Aug 23, 2022)

Thumbs up on the Ed's Red. 
On the 10K that missing knob is the star wheel for the clutch, not sure if it is the same on the 10L


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## tk1971 (Aug 23, 2022)

piper184 said:


> Thumbs up on the Ed's Red.
> On the 10K that missing knob is the star wheel for the clutch, not sure if it is the same on the 10L


Yep, I did some reading and it’s the clutch knob.  The knob screw (which is left hand threaded) broke, likely from someone trying to loosen it in the wrong direction.

I was able to use a drill to remove the broken screw.  I think I’ll weld something to it to make a functional knob screw.

As for the knob, the threaded clutch shaft fits a 3/8” nut.  I think I can weld some rods to a bolt to make a functional knob.  But first I will do more homework as to how the knob works and if I need to stack & weld two bolts together instead of one.  I don’t know how the clutch knob works as of yet.

I also made some oiler set screws to replace the ones that were missing.  I still need to make/get one or more oil gits.

I haven’t even wired it up yet.


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## piper184 (Aug 23, 2022)

Nice work. 
Try checking Ebay for a clutch knob, I see them come up from time to time.
Do you have the parts manual? 
I can look up the number for the knob on my 10K, if you can find one for the 10L we can compare and see if they used the same part.


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## tk1971 (Aug 24, 2022)

piper184 said:


> Nice work.
> Try checking Ebay for a clutch knob, I see them come up from time to time.
> Do you have the parts manual?
> I can look up the number for the knob on my 10K, if you can find one for the 10L we can compare and see if they used the same part.


I’ve been looking at the parts manual.  It shows the knob to be #48 in the diagram which shows “NLA” under the part number.  The knob screw (# 40) is PT355NF1, which is shared with the 13” and 14-1/2” lathes.

I need to know how the knob works.  The threaded shaft spins freely until I pull it outwards, at which point it feels locked.  It may very well turn if I have a knob.  Logically, turning the knob should tighten up the clutch disks.  Im just not sure if I accomplish that by simply turning the knob or do I need to pull the knob out before turning.  Another possibility would be that threading the knob fully onto the shaft will automatically pull the shaft outwards.


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## 682bear (Aug 24, 2022)

If the threaded shaft pulls out, it may be set up for a lever instead of a star knob...

Like this...




-Bear


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## piper184 (Aug 24, 2022)

At least the retainer screw is the same part number as is listed for the 9 and 10K apron model A & B

As you turn the knob clockwise, it draws the shaft (# AS223NK2) towards the knob which spreads the expanders (# PT353NK1) into the shoes (#PT352NK1) which then "locks up" the clutch. 

Turning the knob counter-clockwise allows the spring (# 162 x 19) to push the shaft backwards and release the shoes.

I am pretty sure the knob screw is left hand just to keep the knob from spinning it loose from the shaft. I haven't actually had mine apart that far so I can not confirm this, but know that the documentation I have seen warns that this is a LEFT hand thread.


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## tk1971 (Aug 24, 2022)

682bear said:


> If the threaded shaft pulls out, it may be set up for a lever instead of a star knob...
> 
> Like this...
> 
> ...


From the parts list diagrams, my apron does not have modifications for it to have a lever clutch (drill/tap bottom of apron & file flat for the screw/nut).  From the looks of it, my lathe would have the knob.

The good news is that I received all my books and rebuild kit yesterday.  Time to do some homework and start cleaning/refurbing.


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## piper184 (Aug 24, 2022)

Forgot to mention the 9 & 10K knob number is PT82NK1


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## SLK001 (Aug 24, 2022)

Here are the 10L parts diagram and list:


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## piper184 (Aug 24, 2022)

It looks like the clutch shaft is different than the 9 and 10K which means the knob might be different too. 
Happy to take mine off and take some pictures and measurements if that will help you any. 
You can probably make any kind of knob you want as long as it threads on the shaft and has a through hole for the left hand screw....


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## tk1971 (Aug 24, 2022)

piper184 said:


> It looks like the clutch shaft is different than the 9 and 10K which means the knob might be different too.
> Happy to take mine off and take some pictures and measurements if that will help you any.
> You can probably make any kind of knob you want as long as it threads on the shaft and has a through hole for the left hand screw....



Yep, I plan to make one until I can find a proper replacement.

If you can, see if a 3/8” bolt threads into the knob.  My threaded shaft fits a 3/8” nut.

Thanks.


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## tk1971 (Aug 25, 2022)

Anyone care to measure the thread depth of a Heavy 10 clutch knob for me?

I've measured the TPI for both the knob and left hand screw and ordered suitable replacements from McMaster (3/8"-16 for the knob and 10-32 Left Hand thread for the screw - I think ).  

The knob from McMaster doesn't have the recessed area for the screw head and has a 1" thread depth.  I figure I can mill the recess in assuming I know when to stop.

Thanks.


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## piper184 (Aug 25, 2022)

I took the knob off of my 10K and it is threaded 7/16" x 20.
It seems odd that the 10L would have a beefier clutch but the knob is attached with a smaller thread than the 10K. It would be interesting to know if that is factory or if that was some repair/retro-fit. When OEM parts dry up, anything is possible although putting the small left hand thread into a replacement shaft would require some special attention. I'm sure left hand taps can be bought, but around here it would have to be a special order.

The knob appears to be cast and where it runs against the collar around the shaft there are wear grooves. Collar is definitely harder than the knob as it shows no wear. It works smooth enough but were I to make a new knob or find the need to face the back side of this one flat, I would consider using a wear washer between the knob and collar.

At any rate, it should be easy enough to spin up any style of knob that suits your fancy. Heck, the hardware store is likely to have several styles of plastic knob already threaded 3/8 that you can use until you get the one you want.


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## tk1971 (Aug 27, 2022)

I received the left hand screws and iron knob from McMaster.

I had to guess how deep to mill into the front of the knob.

In case anyone is curious about the part #’s and description:

18-8 Stainless Steel Left-Hand Hex-DriveRounded-Head Screw, 10-32 Thread,1/2" Long
95955A292

Iron Knob, Six Arm Grip, 3/8"-16 Thread x 1" Deep Through-Hole
6042K161


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## SLK001 (Aug 27, 2022)

Does it work?

That start knob looks a lot like an original.  You might want to break the edges on your counterbore.


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## piper184 (Aug 27, 2022)

Looks darn close to the original. Good work.


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## tk1971 (Aug 27, 2022)

SLK001 said:


> Does it work?
> 
> That start knob looks a lot like an original.  You might want to break the edges on your counterbore.


I’ll run a chamfer bit on it.

I was having trouble figuring out how deep to bore into the knob.  

Having never run a lathe, I am uncertain how the clutch works, plus I pulled the motor off to repair all the flaked-off insulation on all 9 leads, so I can only test it by hand turning it.

I think I got it though.  The depth of the threading in the knob is important because if it’s too short, the knob just keeps spinning as the shaft it’s mounted on will spin freely unless it is pulled out slightly.


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## tk1971 (Aug 27, 2022)

On to the motor…

Slipping some marine grade shrink tubing on each lead and trying to figure out the grease fitting this motor uses (bayonet type).

I may just replace the fittings with Zerks fittings.


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## SLK001 (Aug 27, 2022)

tk1971 said:


> Having never run a lathe, I am uncertain how the clutch works...


As you turn the knob clockwise, it pulls a set of disks together to engage the drive (the gear is already turning).  To release the clutch, turn the knob CCW to release it and return the carriage to idle.


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## tk1971 (Aug 28, 2022)

I started the disassembly and ran into a problem.  Apparently the headstock spindle bull gear (75t) has one broken / missing tooth.  I must’ve missed it when I looked it over.

I did have a good look at all the other gears and they look good.  At least there’s that.

Oh and this lathe will require the removal of the headstock before I can remove the QCGB due to the obstructed screw.


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## SLK001 (Aug 28, 2022)

One missing tooth on the bull gear isn't that big of a deal.  You'll hear it when running, but the sound will blend in with the rest of the noise.

The headstock isn't that difficult to remove - only two bolts.  It has an indexing pin in the ways themselves, so that it goes back together exactly as before.


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## tk1971 (Sep 1, 2022)

Continuing with the disassembly.  Found this repair someone previously did on this gear.  They did a good job on the repair.


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## SLK001 (Sep 1, 2022)

Is the repair just a build up of bronze brazing material?

That gear almost never breaks a tooth.  Probably an example of using the wrong lube on the gear wheels (grease) and a large piece of swarf getting jammed between two gears


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## tk1971 (Sep 2, 2022)

SLK001 said:


> Is the repair just a build up of bronze brazing material?
> 
> That gear almost never breaks a tooth.  Probably an example of using the wrong lube on the gear wheels (grease) and a large piece of swarf getting jammed between two gears


I don't know if there are any screws in that bronze material.

If I had a dividing head and means to braze bronze, I'd like to do the same on my bull gear.  It’s only missing one tooth, but somehow it bothers me.

Making progress:

So a 1/8” NPT straight thread grease zerk fits the motor.




Some cleaned up bits and pieces with new felt wicks.




I had trouble with the taper pin during disassembly of the gearbox.  I mushroomed the narrow end and ended up drilling it out.  I had to order a replacement #1 x 1-1/4" pin from McMaster (edited, #2 x 1-1/4”L was incorrectly stated earlier).




All the scrubbing and wire brushing started getting tedious so I switched gears this morning and started to mill the insert at the base of a wedge type tool post that I just received.


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## tk1971 (Sep 2, 2022)

The AXA tool post now fits nicely on the heavy 10.


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## tk1971 (Sep 2, 2022)

The brass shoe on top of the spring under the back gear eccentric cam was missing.  Bought an assorted variety of brass rods to make one.


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## tk1971 (Sep 5, 2022)

Brass shoe cut, ground and installed.


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## SLK001 (Sep 5, 2022)

Is rounded the right profile?  Probably not. The profile should match the cross section of the object that it is locking (look at the hole from the side and match the profile to the thing that intersects the hole).  The correct profile gives MAXIMUM locking force to the locked item.  I'm thinking that a 45º slice across the end of the shoe would be a better match.


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## tk1971 (Sep 5, 2022)

SLK001 said:


> Is rounded the right profile?  Probably not. The profile should match the cross section of the object that it is locking (look at the hole from the side and match the profile to the thing that intersects the hole).  The correct profile gives MAXIMUM locking force to the locked item.  I'm thinking that a 45º slice across the end of the shoe would be a better match.


I matched the contact profile to the ones I’ve seen on eBay for back gear assemblies and hardware.

Based on your description on the function of it being some kind of lock/brake then it would seem that it should be dished to fit the cylinder it mates to.  

Thanks, I’ll measure it and get that corrected.


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## tk1971 (Sep 8, 2022)

Working on the single tumbler gearbox.

Any idea why the 24t gear is the only gear that’s got wear?  Maybe the lathe was used for one single operation for a long time.


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## SLK001 (Sep 8, 2022)

tk1971 said:


> Any idea why the 24t gear is the only gear that’s got wear?  Maybe the lathe was used for one single operation for a long time.



That's not unheard of.  They weren't purchased as hobby lathes, but usually for a specific purpose.  What does the pinion gear look like?


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## tk1971 (Sep 8, 2022)

SLK001 said:


> That's not unheard of.  They weren't purchased as hobby lathes, but usually for a specific purpose.  What does the pinion gear look like?


(Original response:  It looks pretty normal, actually.  Better than the 24t gear.)

Edited:  So I was finally able to identify the pinion gear.  I had a hard time visualizing how everything mated up when they were apart.  Anyway, the pinion gear looked pretty much like the 24t gear in terms of wear.


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## tk1971 (Sep 10, 2022)

The gearbox is ready to be reassembled.  New felts installed.


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## tk1971 (Sep 12, 2022)

Quick question before reassembly…

Is this the correct placement of the bushings on the gearbox (see pics)?







I thought I marked it up but must have removed the markings during cleaning/polishing.  Thanks.


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## SLK001 (Sep 12, 2022)

The _Renovation Guide_, page 55, shows the correct orientation of the bushings.


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## tk1971 (Sep 12, 2022)

SLK001 said:


> The _Renovation Guide_, page 55, shows the correct orientation of the bushings.


I was specifically verifying where to put the shorter one vs the longer one.

I have the Ilion renovation book and I didn’t find it on pg 55 unless I missed it somehow.  But since the bushings are installed from the outside-in, I think it’ll be obvious when I start reassembling the gearbox and there will be no penalty for getting it wrong the first time around.

Thanks.


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## SLK001 (Sep 12, 2022)

This picture from page 55 shows that the two bushings are proud of the surface by about 3/32-1/8".  So my guess is that the short one goes in the short hole and the longer one goes... well, you know.  Also, there should be oil holes that line up with the passages from the oilers.  I don't have a single tumbler gear box, so everything I say is just speculation.


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## tk1971 (Sep 12, 2022)

SLK001 said:


> This picture from page 55 shows that the two bushings are proud of the surface by about 3/32-1/8".  So my guess is that the short one goes in the short hole and the longer one goes... well, you know.  Also, there should be oil holes that line up with the passages from the oilers.  I don't have a single tumbler gear box, so everything I say is just speculation.
> 
> View attachment 420251


Yep, that’s my assessment as well.  The oil holes should line up when the set screws are in.

I’m trying to slow down and be really careful as I don’t want to break anything.  

After the gearbox, I’ll work on the apron and then the spindle.  Things will grind to a halt if I end up breaking something.
Thanks.


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## tk1971 (Sep 13, 2022)

Working on the apron.  I found this homemade looking washer between the right worm collar and bushing.  It looks like it’s hand cut.

I’m thinking I should leave it off upon reassembly.




I’ll give it more thought when I’m reassembling the apron.  I don’t see any red flags (yet) in terms of wear of the apron parts and it’s not listed in the Parts List nor the Ilion Refurb book.


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## SLK001 (Sep 13, 2022)

It probably was used to remove some play in the carriage handwheel.  The previous owner put in a washer instead of redrilling the location of the pin in the worm.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Sep 13, 2022)

that's exactly what I did on my heavy 9. The collar had worn a groove into the cast iron face of the worm housing, so I faced that flat and reassembled everything to measure the gap between the collar and the new face of the housing. Then I made a washer to a smidge less than that thickness. Worked a charm to remove end play from the worm.


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## tk1971 (Sep 14, 2022)

Almost done with the apron.

First, I think the reason for that homemade washer was perhaps the right side worm collar wasn’t put in the same direction it came off.  The hole drilled in for the pin is not centered, so flipping the collar around for assembly would result in too much play there.  Here’s how it looks like now.  It has very little play.




Here is a pic of my clutch oil washer.  I was expecting to be round (like in the parts list and the Ilion book) but someone added teeth to it presumably to increase its ability to adhere to and throw around oil.


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## SLK001 (Sep 14, 2022)

Your apron doesn't seem to be showing a lot of wear.  Was grease packed into it, too?


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## tk1971 (Sep 14, 2022)

SLK001 said:


> Your apron doesn't seem to be showing a lot of wear.  Was grease packed into it, too?


It was filthy, full of grease.


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## tk1971 (Sep 15, 2022)

Apron is done.  Here’s a pic just before installing the cover, gasket with RTV.




While I’m waiting for a replacement 24t cone gear before I can reassemble the gearbox, I might as well work on the saddle and disassemble the spindle.

New felt pieces for the ways (previous ones were painted over).




I was actually apprehensive about taking apart the spindle.  As it turns out, the gearbox was more difficult for me (so far.)


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## SLK001 (Sep 15, 2022)

tk1971 said:


> I was actually apprehensive about taking apart the spindle.  As it turns out, the gearbox was more difficult for me (so far.)



The gearbox seems to give a lot of people problems.  There are a lot of "only one way" assembly techniques.

And be careful with the spindle parts.  They are all CAST IRON.

Where are you getting your new gear?


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## tk1971 (Sep 15, 2022)

I ended up buying the whole cone assembly off eBay with the needed gear.  I figure parts availability will be few and hard to come by, so I bit the bullet and clicked “Buy it Now”.

No kidding on that gearbox disassembly.  I hope I can get it back together with minimum drama.


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## tq60 (Sep 16, 2022)

Here is what we did with our 14.5 years ago to remove some end play
	

	
	
		
		

		
			

















Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


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## tk1971 (Sep 16, 2022)

tq60 said:


> Here is what we did with our 14.5 years ago to remove some end play
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Are those inserts Teflon or Delrin?


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## tk1971 (Sep 16, 2022)

Continuing with the spindle parts.  Try as I may, I couldn’t leave it alone.  I did something about that missing tooth on the bull gear.  It’s not an ideal fix, but I think this should be sufficient for my occasional hobby use.


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## SLK001 (Sep 16, 2022)

Good job on the bull gear.  It's been done like that for ages.


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## Janderso (Sep 16, 2022)

I had a 1941 13” SB. The first thing I did was open up the apron. 
I was very impressed with the quality and durability of the components that went without lubrication.
Seeing your unit packed in filthy grease just shows the inherent quality of the steel used in the parts.
Times have changed.


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## tk1971 (Sep 17, 2022)

I received my cone gears set along with the clutch gear set.  The 24t gear is actually worse than mine.  But now, I guess I have spares.

I had an “incident” last week while pressing the clutch gears out.  I ended up cracking the clutch pinion gear because I didn’t remove the old hardened felt wick first.  I was too forceful with the hydraulic press and displaced the key stock due to that hardened wick and yeah, once that key stock got in the way… crack!  I ended up using a 1/8” square mill to mill out the center of the bunched up key stock.  Once I got to the bottom, the remains of the key stock popped out of the clutch gear shaft.  I cleaned up the shaft and replaced the 3/16” key stock cut to the proper length (1-3/4”).

I bought a entire used clutch gear assembly and installed the gears onto my existing shaft as the shaft that came with it was in worse shape than mine.  I had to re-drill the detents  on my original clutch shaft because the clutch pinion gear I bought didn’t line up with my shaft.  I also had to reduce the diameter of the clutch pinion pin slightly in the middle so that the pinion would freely spin after installation.  I contemplated re-drilling the hole for the pin but I needed just a little more room to allow the pinion to spin freely.

Oh man… I’ll say it again, the gearbox is the hardest part of the restore project for me.  I find it difficult to remove/install the clutch shaft gear.  I tried the 5/8” block trick per the Ilion book but the next time around (needed to remove everything a couple more times to drill new detents, fit this and that, etc.), I ended up just clamping the gear to the gearbox body using locking welding clamps. That, along with very carefully monitoring where everything is at when using the press, I was able to finally reinstall the clutch shaft /gears assembly.

Next week, I’ll install the cone gears / shaft, the lead screw, and I’ll start reassembly of the headstock.


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## tk1971 (Sep 17, 2022)

Alrighty… snuck away from the kids for about an hour and finished assembling the gearbox.


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## tk1971 (Sep 20, 2022)

The headstock is in, as well as the spindle and motor.

Installed an Eaton DC1 VFD, which is 110v input, freeing up the 220v supply for my stick welder.

The previous owner cut up and welded the forward / reverse switch mounting post to attach the 220v input VFD via the 3/4” conduit hole at the bottom of the VFD, but it won’t work on the Eaton (which has a plastic body).  I needed a more rigid mounting method, so I broke out the welder and some scrap.










Gotta go to The Home Depot today for some misc electrical items and then I can fire her up.

I figure I’ll leave the lathe on the highest speed setting and use the VFD to adjust the speed.  

Now I need to figure out how to mount a tach on the spindle.


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## tk1971 (Sep 20, 2022)

Wired up the VFD and checked the runout on the spindle and it’s less than 0.0005”.

I also disassembled the 3 jaw chuck, cleaned it up and mounted it up.







Now comes the fun part, learn how to run it.


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## tk1971 (Sep 22, 2022)

Tried facing, turning and parting today.  The flat belt kept slipping during parting due to my bad technique and I broke a bunch of parting inserts.  Got to try out a live center along with the back gear to help to get low speed / high torque so that the flat belt wouldn’t slip so often.


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## SLK001 (Sep 22, 2022)

My advice?  Put your carbide away and get some HSS blanks.  Learn to grind and then hone a proper bit profile.  This goes for your parting tool, too.  For parting, I prefer a blade that is 0.060 to 0.080" wide.  And for parting, a *CONTINUOUS *flow of lube is required.


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## MrWhoopee (Sep 30, 2022)

SLK001 said:


> My advice?  Put your carbide away and get some HSS blanks.  Learn to grind and then hone a proper bit profile.  This goes for your parting tool, too.  For parting, I prefer a blade that is 0.060 to 0.080" wide.  And for parting, a *CONTINUOUS *flow of lube is required.


I use carbide for everything on my Heavy 10, everything EXCEPT parting. I don't mess around honing the parting blade (don't own a hone), grind the end on the radius of the 60 grit bench grinder wheel and get back to work. Getting lube all the way down into the groove is the key. The inexperienced tend to be hesitant about parting, babying the feed and backing off when it starts to chatter. This is exactly wrong. Keeping the feed rate up and the tool loaded down is necessary to avoid chatter. I don't use power feed, being able to feel how it is cutting (or not) is important.


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## great white (Sep 30, 2022)

MrWhoopee said:


> I use carbide for everything on my Heavy 10, everything EXCEPT parting. I don't mess around honing the parting blade (don't own a hone), grind the end on the radius of the 60 grit bench grinder wheel and get back to work. Getting lube all the way down into the groove is the key. The inexperienced tend to be hesitant about parting, babying the feed and backing off when it starts to chatter. This is exactly wrong. Keeping the feed rate up and the tool loaded down is necessary to avoid chatter. I don't use power feed, being able to feel how it is cutting (or not) is important.


I am the same on my 10F. Carbide on everything except parting.


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## SLK001 (Sep 30, 2022)

MrWhoopee said:


> I use carbide for everything on my Heavy 10, everything EXCEPT parting.





great white said:


> I am the same on my 10F. Carbide on everything except parting.



Neither of you are beginners.  The OP needs to know how to create and sharpen his own cutting bits.  I, too, use a lot of carbide, but knowing when and where to use it needs to be learned.


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## tk1971 (Sep 30, 2022)

Ok, so I’m learning how to operate my lathe and I chucked up a piece of stainless (likely 304) to play with.

The rod has been beat on so one end is slightly mushroomed, but I place the end that isn’t mushroomed into the 3 jaw chuck.  I start by facing it, then I drilled a center hole for the live center and turned it down a few times.

After the first time, there was still a section of rod that hadn’t been touched by the lathe tool.  After further turning until I’m sure the whole surfaced was turned, I measured the diameters closest to the chuck and closest to the dead center.  It appears that the diameter is bigger closer to the dead center by about 1/100”.

After the refurb, I measured the runout on the spindle and it was lass than 1/1000”.  At the chuck it was obviously worse, but I don’t remember it being in the 100th’s.

I’m inclined to think i should continue turning it down to see if the variance in diameter decreases with each successive turning.

I’m new at this and wanted some opinions about this.  Thanks.


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## hudstr (Sep 30, 2022)

Most of that is probably from the tailstock. You'll never get the alignment perfect everywhere because the bed wear is uneven but you should be get it down to a few thousandths.


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## great white (Sep 30, 2022)

SLK001 said:


> Neither of you are beginners.  The OP needs to know how to create and sharpen his own cutting bits.  I, too, use a lot of carbide, but knowing when and where to use it needs to be learned.


You give me too much credit sir. I am the very definition of “beginner”….


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## tk1971 (Sep 30, 2022)

I bought some M2 HSS 3/8” blanks and will attempt to grind a few of the bits shown in the South Bend How to Run a Lathe book.  I’m waiting for the Aluminum Oxide wheel to arrive.


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## SLK001 (Sep 30, 2022)

tk1971 said:


> I’m new at this and wanted some opinions about this.  Thanks.



Did you level your lathe?  Out of level could account for some of your runout, but I also suspect that your tail stock isn't in line with the spindle.

Chuck up a piece (I use ground tool steel) with a center in the TS.  Use an indicator in your tool post to measure from HS end to the TS end (you'll not be cutting into this piece).  Adjust the TS centering until you real as close to the same reading at the HS end and the TS end.  If your initial testing shows considerable misalignment, then centering will remove most of it.


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## SLK001 (Sep 30, 2022)

great white said:


> You give me too much credit sir. I am the very definition of “beginner”….



Yeah, but you are an _experienced _beginner!


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## tk1971 (Sep 30, 2022)

SLK001 said:


> Did you level your lathe?  Out of level could account for some of your runout, but I also suspect that your tail stock isn't in line with the spindle.
> 
> Chuck up a piece (I use ground tool steel) with a center in the TS.  Use an indicator in your tool post to measure from HS end to the TS end (you'll not be cutting into this piece).  Adjust the TS centering until you real as close to the same reading at the HS end and the TS end.  If your initial testing shows considerable misalignment, then centering will remove most of it.


I forgot to level the lathe.  I meant to do that after I moved it into the final location but somehow i forgot.

I’ll level it and check/adjust TS alignment.

Thanks.


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## great white (Sep 30, 2022)

SLK001 said:


> Yeah, but you are an _experienced _beginner!


Maybe, but thats still up for some serious debate…..


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## tq60 (Sep 30, 2022)

Move your belt to a middle range.

The high speed is too fast and reduces the torque.

It has a small contact area and is quicker to slip.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


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## tk1971 (Oct 1, 2022)

tq60 said:


> Move your belt to a middle range.
> 
> The high speed is too fast and reduces the torque.
> 
> ...


I was running with the belt on the middle cone.  I tried spindle speeds of 600 and 800 RPM.

I was also using the Longitudinal feed with  gearbox at 0.0018”, 0.0016” & 0.0015” (Feed in Thousandths), as well as manual feeding.

I ordered a test bar so I’ll be aligning the tailstock when it arrives.

Thanks.


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## SLK001 (Oct 2, 2022)

That's


tk1971 said:


> I was also using the Longitudinal feed with gearbox at 0.0018”, 0.0016” & 0.0015” (Feed in Thousandths)



That's actually feed in inches.

For a test bar, you could also use a piece of ground tool steel ~3/4" diameter.  It comes in 36" length pieces, so cut it in half, face the cut and center drill both ends.  That gives you a test bar and 18" of excellent steel.


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## tk1971 (Oct 5, 2022)

Leveled lathe yesterday and attempted to align the the tailstock.  Had to add 0.013” of shims to the tailstock which already had 0.025” of shims.

I’ll turn something tomorrow to see how successful my alignment was.  Once that’s done, I can start turning some tool holders for my Rusnok 70 mill which accepts a maximum 1/2” straight shank arbor.  I plan to turn 3/4” & MT3 tool holders down to 1/2”, then i can play with gear cutters.


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## tk1971 (Oct 5, 2022)

Success… I went back to turn that stainless material that ended up with a taper before tailstock alignment.  I got the same measurement near the chuck and tailstock.

_

_







I think i need a 4 independent jaw chuck for turning down my mill tools as I’ll want to them concentric in the chuck before I start turning.


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## tk1971 (Oct 6, 2022)

Made my first part.  That rod I’ve been practicing on was used to make a hinge pin for the motor access door that was missing on my lathe (called a rivet in the SB Parts List).

I freehanded the curvature for the head with a turning tool.  

For this exercise, I faced, turned and parted.  It was fun.  

I used a HSS parting tool and I still suck at it.  I got down halfway to open up a face to turn a radius on the rivet head.  

At the end, I cut it off with a metal disc cutter instead of finishing off the parting on the lathe.


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## Ben17484 (Oct 6, 2022)

tk1971 said:


> Made my first part. That rod I’ve been practicing on was used to make a hinge pin for the motor access door that was missing on my lathe (called a rivet in the SB Parts List).
> 
> I freehanded the curvature for the head with a turning tool.
> 
> ...



Very nice! That came out really well

How was the freehanding? It’s not something I’ve been brave enough to try yet. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tk1971 (Oct 6, 2022)

Ben17484 said:


> Very nice! That came out really well
> 
> How was the freehanding? It’s not something I’ve been brave enough to try yet.
> 
> ...


It was easier for me than parting…. Did i mention that I suck at parting?


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## tk1971 (Oct 11, 2022)

Added an E-Stop before I learn how to turn threads.

It is wired to the 24v input to the font control panel.  Yanking the voltage stops everything.


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## SLK001 (Oct 11, 2022)

tk1971 said:


> Added an E-Stop before I learn how to turn threads.
> 
> It is wired to the 24v input to the font control panel.  Yanking the voltage stops everything.


If you're using carbide threading tools, stopping like this will often lead to fracturing the bit.  It's better to learn how to quickly withdraw the tool from the work using the cross-slide.  If you're threading to a shoulder, then cranking out the tool while simultaneously stopping the feed is a skill you need to learn.


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