# Just put a deposit down on a southbend lathe



## Joe0121 (Jun 24, 2014)

It is what I believe to be a Heavy ten. The cross slide has .050 of back lash everything else seems to be less the .040. Comes with a six jaw chuck and a quick change tool post. it has the motor under the cabinet. Left deposit today will be picking it up in a couple weeks. 

SN 13596RKX16 

Can I get the plates that have the feed and speeds and threading info replaced for this?  Also I know the R =10 K = Under drive but what does the X mean on the SB site it says special but what is special about it is it a cam lock? I forgot to look when I saw the machine to be honest.


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## tkingmo (Jun 24, 2014)

Joe0121 said:


> It is what I believe to be a Heavy ten. The cross slide has .050 of back lash everything else seems to be less the .040. Comes with a six jaw chuck and a quick change tool post. it has the motor under the cabinet. Left deposit today will be picking it up in a couple weeks.
> 
> SN 13596RKX16
> 
> Can I get the plates that have the feed and speeds and threading info replaced for this?  Also I know the R =10 K = Under drive but what does the X mean on the SB site it says special but what is special about it is it a cam lock? I forgot to look when I saw the machine to be honest.



I believe X means flame hardened ways.


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## Joe0121 (Jun 24, 2014)

tkingmo said:


> I believe X means flame hardened ways.


I sure hope so. My Reed-Prentice has soft ways and I dinged them the other day. I haven't even gotten it under power yet.


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## OldMachinist (Jun 24, 2014)

X just means something was special on it when manufactured. There were many options like hardened bed, cross slide screw, tail stock quill, etc. You'll have to order the serial number card from South Bend Lathe(Grizzly) to know for sure unless its obvious when you get the machine.
http://www.grizzly.com/brands/south-bend-lathe/serialcard


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## strantor (Jun 24, 2014)

.050" backlash? That's a half turn of the dial. Did you mean .005"?


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## Joe0121 (Jun 25, 2014)

strantor said:


> .050" backlash? That's a half turn of the dial. Did you mean .005"?



You are correct.

- - - Updated - - -



OldMachinist said:


> X just means something was special on it when manufactured. There were many options like hardened bed, cross slide screw, tail stock quill, etc. You'll have to order the serial number card from South Bend Lathe(Grizzly) to know for sure unless its obvious when you get the machine.
> http://www.grizzly.com/brands/south-bend-lathe/serialcard



I already plan on ordering the card. Will likely pick it up next Saturday.


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## Surprman (Jun 25, 2014)

Joe0121 said:


> You are correct.
> 
> - - - Updated - - -
> 
> ...



You don't actually pick anything up that I am familiar with.  Grizzly has a web site where you put in your serial number (twice for error checking), pay your $25 and they send you a PDF file via email.


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## OldMachinist (Jun 25, 2014)

I believe he meant that he's picking the lathe up next Saturday.


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## Joe0121 (Jun 27, 2014)

OldMachinist said:


> I believe he meant that he's picking the lathe up next Saturday.



Also correct. 


Words are hard. 


My reed-Prentice cleanup as taking longer than expected. I think she knows I'm bringing home a skinner girls. She makes the Heavy Ten look like a mini Lathe


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## Joe0121 (Jun 29, 2014)

Calling Monday to pay for the Lathe. I will be picking it up next weekend. This week will be like waiting for christmass. Sad thing is they have a bridgeport I've been eying. Wife and I may be being another house so gonna hold of on machinery purchases after the lathe less to move. I already order a lube kit and wic kit as well as a GC gear box name plate and "how to run a lathe book" Still looking for replacements to all the other plates.


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## Joe0121 (Jul 13, 2014)

Well wife and I bought a fixer up out in the boondocks. I picked up the machine and brought her to her new home. 
	

		
			
		

		
	




[ATTACH=full]168461[/ATTACH][ATTACH...464[/ATTACH][URL][ATTACH=full]168465[/ATTACH][/URL]


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## drs23 (Jul 13, 2014)

Joe0121 said:


> *Well wife and I bought a fixer up out in the boondocks.* I picked up the machine and brought her to her new home.



Does that mean you can go back and get the Bridgeport?


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## Joe0121 (Jul 13, 2014)

drs23 said:


> Does that mean you can go back and get the Bridgeport?


The place I got it from had a few bridgports. Next year's tax return most likely. This ol girl will keep me busy for a while.


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## Joe0121 (Jul 19, 2014)

I just re checked the backlash on the cross slide. It is approx .040 so I will be looking to source a new cross slide screw and nut.


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## Joe0121 (Mar 31, 2015)

So I started to "restore" the Machine a couple weeks back As I've finally settled in my new house. I snapped some pics of the progress so far. I need a new screw for the tail stock quail as I dropped the tail stock with the screw sticking out with the hand wheel and dial off and broke it. Still have the old one but It is bent and binds up.  

Here is how it looks now:





Got the Apron mostly apart







There appear to be a pin that holds the large gear still inside the apron to the shaft/gear combo but for the life of me I cant drive it out. I found a parts diagram online that shows it as a "pin" though My apron has subtle differences to this. Mainly instead of a star clutch this has a handle with a knob that appears to be something someone built. I also cant get the cam out for the power feed selector no matter which way I rotate it. 



What my "shop" looks like now


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## lugnard (Mar 31, 2015)

Ahhhh....(sigh as in glad to be home).....looks like the lathe fits in very nicely!!

Harry


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## MARVIN GARDENS (Apr 1, 2015)

Have you received your build card yet?

Regards.

Bob


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## Joe0121 (Apr 1, 2015)

MARVIN GARDENS said:


> Have you received your build card yet?
> 
> Regards.
> 
> Bob


I have indeed Ill try to post a picture up tonight. Today is a gym day so it will likely be late


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## Joe0121 (Apr 1, 2015)

lugnard said:


> Ahhhh....(sigh as in glad to be home).....looks like the lathe fits in very nicely!!
> 
> Harry


Yup Eventually once I'm done going through the Lathe it will be moved against the back wall. But I still need to run 220 and get the VFD setup. 

That Apron is going to be an adventure getting clean and re painted.


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## Thoro (Apr 1, 2015)

Look at the apron as the easy and fun part.  What will likely try your patience is the gearbox.  Only prime the the gearbox inside and out and give it a good coat of paint inside before reassembly.  You WILL scratch it up.  

Your gear box plate looks fine!  Clean it up, repaint it and reveal the embossed lettering and you're in good shape.  It's not dented up is it?


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## Joe0121 (Apr 1, 2015)

Thoro said:


> Look at the apron as the easy and fun part.  What will likely try your patience is the gearbox.  Only prime the the gearbox inside and out and give it a good coat of paint inside before reassembly.  You WILL scratch it up.
> 
> Your gear box plate looks fine!  Clean it up, repaint it and reveal the embossed lettering and you're in good shape.  It's not dented up is it?


The problem with the Apron is it seems like there is a lot of little nooks and crannies for grease to hide. I am thinking I will get as much out as I can with brush than pressure wash the rest. I have also had good luck using Scolding hot water with Dawn dish soap, simple green and evaporate rust to keep it from rusting while I scrub it with a maroon scotch bright pad. I than immediately rinse it with paint thinner and wipe it down with blue shop towel. I mask off all the machine surfaces and paint with Rustoleom machine paint in the rattle can.  


As far as the ways I wont be doing any scraping mainly because I have owned this for almost a year now and I just want to get making parts. I also dont have the tools nor really the money to buy them at this point.


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## Thoro (Apr 1, 2015)

I used electrolysis to clean and strip almost everything. It even cut the grease. Soaking it in hot water with a detergent and then power washing it would probably work quite well. . I didn't worry about painting the inside of the apron.... It's going to be coated with oil always anyway


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## Joe0121 (Apr 1, 2015)

Thoro said:


> I used electrolysis to clean and strip almost everything. It even cut the grease. Soaking it in hot water with a detergent and then power washing it would probably work quite well. . I didn't worry about painting the inside of the apron.... It's going to be coated with oil always anyway


I may try the electrolysis method just so it's a one step process. I was also thinking of doing the HOT TSP method as well. Tractor Supply has a tub big enough to do the entire lath bed I just wonder how the galvanized will react.


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## Thoro (Apr 1, 2015)

Joe0121 said:


> I may try the electrolysis method just so it's a one step process. I was also thinking of doing the HOT TSP method as well. Tractor Supply has a tub big enough to do the entire lath bed I just wonder how the galvanized will react.


Which portion are you concerned about that is galvanized?  I don't believe that the bed is galvanized anywhere.... Some of the knobs may be Chrome plated.  Watch out. The pulley cone cover is aluminum.  (i made that mistake) so too might be the bull gear plunger flip guard if you have one.


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## Joe0121 (Apr 2, 2015)

Thoro said:


> Which portion are you concerned about that is galvanized?  I don't believe that the bed is galvanized anywhere.... Some of the knobs may be Chrome plated.  Watch out. The pulley cone cover is aluminum.  (i made that mistake) so too might be the bull gear plunger flip guard if you have one.


Than stock pan I am using to do the process is galvanized.


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## Thoro (Apr 2, 2015)

Oh, well yeah, you want to use a plastic tub for sure! It will eat a metal container in no time


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## Joe0121 (Apr 3, 2015)

Thoro said:


> Oh, well yeah, you want to use a plastic tub for sure! It will eat a metal container in no time


Yeah I'm buying some washing Soda today and going to try the Electrolysis this evening. The taper pin that holds the longitudinal feed gear  simply will not budge so looks like ill have to work around that. I don't want to risk breaking it or having to drill it to ge it out so it will likely just stay in the apron and ill have to clean and paint around it.


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## jmm03 (Apr 3, 2015)

Hey Joe, i'm sure you have found this by now,but the wewilliams site is very good for info as is steve wells' site. A gentleman by the name of Jim Krull makes new plates but yours looks pretty good as it is,it should clean up fine. (mine was wasted on my 10L and I bought it and the lube plate from Jim, real nice guy to deal with) http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...uth-bend-links-sources-parts-info-etc-129769/ Hope this helps, Jim


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## Joe0121 (Apr 4, 2015)

Tried the Electrolysis rust removal. Seems to work well. Still gonna power wash the apron to get all the crud out. 





Some parts as they came out


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## Joe0121 (Apr 4, 2015)

jmm03 said:


> Hey Joe, i'm sure you have found this by now,but the wewilliams site is very good for info as is steve wells' site. A gentleman by the name of Jim Krull makes new plates but yours looks pretty good as it is,it should clean up fine. (mine was wasted on my 10L and I bought it and the lube plate from Jim, real nice guy to deal with) http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...uth-bend-links-sources-parts-info-etc-129769/ Hope this helps, Jim


Thanls for the info. I will check it out for sure.


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## Thoro (Apr 6, 2015)

Glad to hear it went well for you.  I think if I remember right, I went after mine with a brush and degreaser after the spooge tank.  Power washer might do much better!


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