# Teco 7300 CV



## Coldspot

Haven't posted since my introduction. I have been busy putting my lathe together. Right now I am trying to wire the vfd. I picked the Teco 7300 CV  which seemed to me to be the right thing for my lathe. Silly me, 

Question around external input. The manual calls up a npn or pnp input which is 3 switches that can be all operated independently but feed two terminals. Has anyone run into this type of input before. Can you point me to a switch that can do this. The nomenclature I am using is what teco uses but points me to transistors when I go looking. Is there another term for this kind of switche?
Any and all thoughts would be much appreciated.
Gord


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## Tony Wells

Are you referring to the chart on page 20 of the manual? That is where I find a specification for a digital input using either a npn or pnp. It is true that those terms are used in transistor nomenclature, but unless you need a remote digital input, don't worry about that. I don't believe it is necessary for manual operation of the drive.


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## Coldspot

*Teco 7300 C v*

Hi Tony
I am on page 4-21 of the manual (start/stop and frequency control modes)
I understand it is a form of logic input which I am trying to replicate with a manual switch.
i don't think I have enough hair left to do this though.
Gord





Tony Wells said:


> Are you referring to the chart on page 20 of the manual? That is where I find a specification for a digital input using either a npn or pnp. It is true that those terms are used in transistor nomenclature, but unless you need a remote digital input, don't worry about that. I don't believe it is necessary for manual operation of the drive.


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## mitsue

on drives it relates to sink or source I think. my drive is set on sink for the apron and foot switch to work properly


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## Coldspot

thanks, I have a meeting set up tommorow night with a friend in the electronics field to sort out 
the circuit diagram and switching arrangement. I slept on this and believe it can be done simply and without owning an electronics shop.  Anyway I will post what I end up doing.
Gord



mitsue said:


> on drives it relates to sink or source I think. my drive is set on sink for the apron and foot switch to work properly


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## mitsue

So what I did was wire 240v to the lathe input wiring box on R (phase1), S (phase2) and earth to PE from there it goes through the machine isolating switch to the terminal strip in the control cabinet. I disconnected the wiring going from U, V and W on the terminal strip to the motor contactors. 

From the U and V I connected into the 240v input on the transfromer and also from U V and PE connected to the input of the inverter. Then connected the output 3 phase from the inverter direct to the motor and disconnected the original wiring from the motor.

I removed the input and output U, V and W wires from the forward and reverse motor contactors, I connected the common control wire from the inverter to one side of both contactors and connected the inverter forward control wire to the other side of the forward contactor and the inverter reverse control wire to the other side of the reverse contactor.

Now instead of the motor forward and reverse contactor switching the 3 phase power to the motor they switch the control circuit for the inverter.

This way I didn't have to change any of the existing wiring for the end cover switch, *brake* switch, E-stop sw or Jog sw and all these functions work as they did before.


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## Coldspot

I think the issue I am facing is that this unit has so much choice about how to do things. I will use PNP  I am using a rotary switch for  fwd /stop/ reverse. I think I can do this with 2 micro switches in the rotary switch, each one with 2 sets of contacts one NC and one NO. The NO contacts will close when the switch rotates to the that switch - either forward or reverse. the NC contacts will both  be closed when the switch is in the center position and will signal stop since both forward and reverse will be activated at the same time. I read the manual a bunch of times to ensure that bit of logic is correct.
 The speed control appears to be straight forward so no questions on that right now. I am mounting my vfd on the wall behind the lathe and my emergency stop kills the power to the VFD. I think the stop on the direction control wil be adequate for most of my work. I don't do  a lot of electrical work so am unfamiliar with the terminology I have done some controls work so the logic comes a bit easier but the logic in this vfd is completely new to me.
Thanks vey much for the pictures and the insight.
 Gord  





CluelessNewB said:


> Most probably you will want to use PNP (the default) and hook your switches according to the 3.5 diagram page 3-15 using the 24V terminal.
> 
> Depending on how you plan on using the unit will determine what type of switches (normally open, normally closed) you will need.  Unless you
> plan on doing something real fancy you won't need any transistors, just switches.    if you want to control the speed remotely (not using the
> control pad) you will need a 10K ohm potentiometer.
> 
> You can get it working with no external switches, that's a good way to start.   You will need to set up the motor parameters (voltage, max
> current etc) first.  You should be able to find all the info you need on the motor name plate.


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## Coldspot

Ah shoot, I wish I had posted sooner, I removed my contactor since I didn't think I would be using it.  Then I find out the buttons on the contactor control panel are momentary contact and can't be used with the  vfd (unless you leave the contactor in place) All I can say is that you sir know a lot more about electronics  and electricity than I do. I will be a lot more diligent in the future about posting questions and my action plans before I go and do something. 

thanks 
Gord





mitsue said:


> So what I did was wire 240v to the lathe input wiring box on R (phase1), S (phase2) and earth to PE from there it goes through the machine isolating switch to the terminal strip in the control cabinet. I disconnected the wiring going from U, V and W on the terminal strip to the motor contactors.
> 
> From the U and V I connected into the 240v input on the transfromer and also from U V and PE connected to the input of the inverter. Then connected the output 3 phase from the inverter direct to the motor and disconnected the original wiring from the motor.
> 
> I removed the input and output U, V and W wires from the forward and reverse motor contactors, I connected the common control wire from the inverter to one side of both contactors and connected the inverter forward control wire to the other side of the forward contactor and the inverter reverse control wire to the other side of the reverse contactor.
> 
> Now instead of the motor forward and reverse contactor switching the 3 phase power to the motor they switch the control circuit for the inverter.
> 
> This way I didn't have to change any of the existing wiring for the end cover switch, *brake* switch, E-stop sw or Jog sw and all these functions work as they did before.


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## mitsue

I try to keep it simple. If you want I could take a few pics of my wiring and post more details this afternoon.


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## Kennyd

Coldspot said:


> I think the issue I am facing is that this unit has so much choice about how to do things. I will use PNP  I am using a rotary switch for  fwd /stop/ reverse. I think I can do this with 2 micro switches in the rotary switch, each one with 2 sets of contacts one NC and one NO. The NO contacts will close when the switch rotates to the that switch - either forward or reverse. the NC contacts will both  be closed when the switch is in the center position and will signal stop since both forward and reverse will be activated at the same time. I read the manual a bunch of times to ensure that bit of logic is correct.
> The speed control appears to be straight forward so no questions on that right now. I am mounting my vfd on the wall behind the lathe and my emergency stop kills the power to the VFD. I think the stop on the direction control wil be adequate for most of my work. I don't do  a lot of electrical work so am unfamiliar with the terminology I have done some controls work so the logic comes a bit easier but the logic in this vfd is completely new to me.
> Thanks vey much for the pictures and the insight.



I am confused.

Why do you think you need to add microswitches to your rotary/drum switch?

Why would you have your e-stop kill power to the VFD?  You can program it to stop the machine a lot faster than it coasting if the power is removed-especially if you add a external braking resistor.

Read this thread for reference: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...e-off-forward-switch-to-vfd?p=26771#post26771


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## Coldspot

Hi Kenny
 I don't have a rotary drum switch, I have a cutler hammer  3 position rotary switch ( this is a maintained contact type of switch). For this type of switch you buy the contacts separately and mount them in the switch housing, you can buy NC, NO, dual NC or NO or a NC/NO. You can mount 3 "micro switches" in the switch housing. I agree that using a braking resistor and the normal VFD stop logic(I hesitate to call it a switch) is the fastest way to stop the lathe.
 My background and training though force me to view an Emergency stop switch as an ESD where you kill all energy to the unit hence I have to kill the power to the  VFD( what if it is the one loosing its smoke) 
anyway that's my story
 Gord




Kennyd said:


> I am confused.
> 
> Why do you think you need to add microswitches to your rotary/drum switch?
> 
> Why would you have your e-stop kill power to the VFD?  You can program it to stop the machine a lot faster than it coasting if the power is removed-especially if you add a external braking resistor.
> 
> Read this thread for reference: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...e-off-forward-switch-to-vfd?p=26771#post26771


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## Coldspot

Pictures are helpful so I look forward to seeing them
 thanks
 Gord



mitsue said:


> I try to keep it simple. If you want I could take a few pics of my wiring and post more details this afternoon.


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## mitsue

Here is the pics. The first pic is original wiring, 240v 3 phase input.



Second pic shows 240v (120v+120V) in thru 30 amp breaker up to top left of terminal strip to R,S terminals. T was disconnected. From there the power goes thru the main disconnect rotary switch on the front of the lathe then back as R1, S1 to the original overload in the lower centre of the pic. The S1 wire goes in the top and I have the bottom line out go into the top where T (which is also disconnected) would go. The T line out and the R line out go to the VFD power in. I jumped S out to T in for load sharing on the overload. I had to dial it up from 6 to 10 amps to stop it tripping under heavy load/cutting.




the thrid pic show the drive mounted in the tool box under the lathe. The two black covered cables are 240v in and out direct to the motor. The grey cables are shielded communication cable that run out to the motor direction contactors and up to the speed pot. The white cable is a Cat5 RJ45 network cable running up to the remote keypad/display unit. 



The fouth pic shows the VFD fwd/rev common white into the top of the contactors, with the black and red out the bottom for fwd or rev. Wired up this way the E-Stop switch acts as a stop command for the inverter which uses braking without a seperate resistor. Make sure you find the parameter for automatic restart and shut it off. That way if you tap the brake pedal or hit the E-Stop it doesn't restart when cleared. I have to return the apron lever to off before it will restart.



This last pic shows the remote keypad and tachometer display mounted up beside the DRO and the speed pot above the E-Stop switch.


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## Coldspot

I like the idea of using shielded communication cable for control wiring. Ah yes  shut off the auto restart - Great comment. I will be studing your pictures closely looking for other tricks 

thanks
Gord



mitsue said:


> Here is the pics.
> The grey cables are shielded communication cable that run out to the motor direction contactors and up to the speed pot. The white cable is a Cat5 RJ45 network cable running up to the remote keypad/display unit.
> 
> The fouth pic shows the VFD fwd/rev common white into the top of the contactors, with the black and red out the bottom for fwd or rev. Wired up this way the E-Stop switch acts as a stop command for the inverter which uses braking without a seperate resistor. Make sure you find the parameter for automatic restart and shut it off. That way if you tap the brake pedal or hit the E-Stop it doesn't restart when cleared. I have to return the apron lever to off before it will restart.


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## mitsue

*more pics for study*


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## tibimakai

Did you found out about the switches? I'm facing the same problem, just with a Bridgeport mill.
It seems from the diagram that those switches are momentary ones, but I would appreciate any input on this myself.
Stop+Run are momentary and the forward/reverse are not? It's confusing.


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## Coldspot

If you can hang on till next week, I will have it wired and I can report back what I did - what worked or didn't work or what I am stumped on. Been a extremely busy summer for me so finally back to the lathe.
Gord


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## tibimakai

I think that I have got it now, but it would be nice to be sure then sorry.


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## tibimakai

Finally I had some time and I installed it and it's working great.
I have two questions about the display on the drive itself, the display should blink constantly? It kind of irritates me.
The second issue I have is how do I match the RPM on the display with the spindle of the mill?


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## Coldspot

My display will be covered by the panel cover when I get the control wiring sorted. So my Teco display will not be visible during normal operation.
The Teco cannot display RPM, it displays frequency. To display rpm you need a tachometer. There are a couple of suppliers that I know about Little Machine Shop http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_search.php?critFast=tachometer&B1=Product+Search
 and a build it yourself model from mach tach   http://www.machtach.com/
Gord



tibimakai said:


> Finally I had some time and I installed it and it's working great.
> I have two questions about the display on the drive itself, the display should blink constantly? It kind of irritates me.
> The second issue I have is how do I match the RPM on the display with the spindle of the mill?


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## tibimakai

Thank you, I will check out Littlemachineshop, we are neighbors with them, same business park.


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## tibimakai

On the display it's printed HZ/RPM, so it should show RPM too, no?
I managed to play with the 4-04 setting(display scaling) and the blinking has stopped.
I will have to bring my own (car)tachometer to test out the RPMs with it. The machine is at my workplace.


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## Coldspot

I think you are right.  I think the manual refers to rpm as line speed with the factory default  at 1800.  I have no idea on how to program that right now so good luck.  The reason I was looking at a separate tachometer is all my machines are belt driven with multiple sheaves so the actual motor speed which the vfd should know is not the spindle speed which is what the tooling cares about.
hope this help
Gord





tibimakai said:


> On the display it's printed HZ/RPM, so it should show RPM too, no?
> I managed to play with the 4-04 setting(display scaling) and the blinking has stopped.
> I will have to bring my own (car)tachometer to test out the RPMs with it. The machine is at my workplace.


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## Kennyd

I have one of these tachometers: *http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Photo...UTF8&colid=25SQ03LAZ8XQ&coliid=I2Z8QO666OEA47*

You cant beat the price and they are handy for a lot of things.


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## tibimakai

We have one of those at work and we have a flashlight style strobe too, but to me they don't seem that they show the right RPM. The tachometer one varies a lot the RPM and the strobe one it's way to much off. It can't multiply either.


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## tibimakai

OK, finally I have managed to make it work and it shows the RPM.
I have used a laser tachometer(Unit-T), with the belt on the third pulley from the top. The spindle was showing 1847 RPM and this number I have inserted in the 4-04(Display scaling 0-999) and with the potentiometer AIN Gain(7-00) at 100%.
I haven't done any heavy cutting yet, but it seems like it's working properly.
Most of the parts were purchased from factorymation.com, except the metal case.
Here are some pictures:


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