# My First Lathe, But It Needs Some Work, Where To Start?



## Matthew Nelson (May 22, 2015)

So I took the plunge and bought a lathe.  It's my first "real" tool.  I got a Craftsman 101 (same as an Atlas 618 from what I've been reading).  It wasn't too hard of a decision since it was almost free.  The guy also gave me a nice Craftsman bench grinder and two tool boxes full of misc. stuff (most of which I'm not sure what they are).  

It sat unused for a while, plus it needs some work.  I'm looking for some advice on the best order of operations to get this little champ working well again.  Once I got it home and put back together, I turned it on for a quick test run.  There are a few issues right off the bat that I know need to be addressed:  1- The back-feed gears have a bunch of broken or missing teeth (um... but I don't know what the back-feed is used for... ).  2- The Eccentric Handle has a too much play, and doesn't stay in place (not sure if that's the right name, but it's the small lever that engages the back-feed gears).  3- The handles for the cross slide and compound are broken.  4- The auto-feed lever doesn't engage the auto-feed.  5- The belts are totally frayed and kinda scare me.  6- The oil in the wells on either side of the spindle has solidified.  7- It's missing the threading dial, but I ordered one from eBay yesterday.  8- There's quite a bit of play (backlash?) in every handle.

These are the known problems.  Do I need to disassemble the whole thing (keep in mind I've never done anything that complicated in my life), or can I just fix the problems?  I don't have a pressing need to use the lathe yet, so if the best options take a while, I'm OK with that.  Plus, my wife says I need to control my impulse to build something right away (since I have no idea what I'm doing).  She's usually right.

Also, do I dive into a quick change tool post now or wait?  Can I get a DRO for this little guy, or is that just overkill for a hobbyist?

I can post as many pictures as needed/ requested.  Thanks in advance, and I'm looking forward to the new hobby.

-Matt


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## francist (May 22, 2015)

Hey Matt, I have a little 618 and my way of thinking is you don't need to do it all at once. The lathe is so small (but fun) that it's easy to tackle things one by one.

You can live without back gear for a bit until such time as you want to find a new gear to replace the broken one. The handle to engage back gear uses a little ball and detent to stay in position -- sometimes that just slides away from the headstock enough to allow that detent to not stay engaged, so it might just need adjusting. But you do need belts to run. If the old ones are shot replace them. A link belt on the headstock belt will save having to pull the spindle to replace it.

I'd not fret about the backlash right away, but you do need handles in order to operate the machine. You can pull the saddle on a 618, go over it, and put it back on in an afternoon so it's not an arduous job. Gives you a chance to clean the undersides and see why the half nuts aren't engaging for longitudinal feed. 

The solidified oil in the headstock cups may indeed be grease from previous owner. Clean those out so you can use oil. 

Skip the quick change tool post unless one just happens to fall in to your lap. A lantern will get you going while you iron out all the other little kinks, then spring for a quick change. DRO -- the machine is pretty small and you'll find you need all of its space to do anything of substance. Readout scales are just going to cramp things even if you can find one that's small enough to work nicely.

Just my thoughts, have fun.

-frank


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## eeler1 (May 22, 2015)

So, you brought home an old beat up, broken machine, and the wife says 'what are you so happy about, it doesn't even work?'  

You can get by without back gears or power feed, but they sure are nice to have.  I'd say tear it down by assembly, clean, fix, replace when needed and budget allows, don't worry about paint any shiny stuff till basics are done.

Even if it's worn and broken and never be able to do fine work (we don't know condition but doesn't sound too good), there's some value in going through and figuring out how it all works.  Big help when you look for another machine.

Be mindful of budget, you can put more into fixing it than you paid for it, and in the end may still have a worn out machine.  Lots of similar experience and good info/advice in the atlas forum here.


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## T Bredehoft (May 22, 2015)

You've identified the back gears, and their control. (The lever is the "Back Gear Lever) The back gear is a "low gear" arrangement.  Through changing belts you are able to achieve 3 or four different spindle speeds. In High gear (non-back gear) the thing really spins. In back gear it turns slowly. 

Small pieces of steel ( under 3/4 inch) ( about 400 RPM) use high gear, bigger than than should use the Back Gear and one of the pulley speeds. 

It seems that the relation ship between the surface you are cutting and the tool is critical.  Assuming  you use High Speed Steel (HSS) tools that surface speed should be no more than 80 feet per minute, otherwise the heat built up in the tool will cause it to soften and loose it's ability to cut. Some people say 90 FPM, but I like 80 better, tools last longer, and I'm not paid by the hour. 

Try to fix one piece at a time, replace broken pieces as you can, handles can be bought from Mc Master Carr, and other suppliers. You may find as you work one piece at a time, that you see how other (broken) things are supposed to work and when you get to them, you can figure out what you need.


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## Matthew Nelson (May 22, 2015)

> ...and the wife says 'what are you so happy about, it doesn't even work?'


@eeler1, Were you in ear-shot of me and my wife a few days ago?  I don't remember, but that may actually be the exact phrase she used.  

OK, so I'll start with belts.  Not too expensive, and not too much learning curve... right?  Is there a preferred place online I should order them from, or do I just do a Google search to try to find the belts locally?

I'll tear down the cross slide and compound this weekend so I can get them cleaned and ready for new handles.  I'll look at McMaster Carr and eBay to see what's available.  Should I stick with the original design, or does someone make better handles?  As long as they're being replaced, might as well get what works best.

-Matt


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## T Bredehoft (May 22, 2015)

Some might argue for "original" keeping in mind resale, but you're the one that's going to use them, if you find a more "pleasing" handle, use it.


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## francist (May 22, 2015)

And get the manual! I learned a ton by looking over the parts diagrams and seeing how things are "supposed" to work. There's a number of small leaflet-style publications in addition to the bigger books (How to Run a Lathe, eg) that can really help you figure things out.

-frank


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## Matthew Nelson (May 22, 2015)

I've already ordered the manual.  The lathe came with a bunch loose pages, but not a complete manual.  Plus they're too dirty to read in many places.  I've also downloaded a PDF of it, but it's too small to read on a tablet.  It would be nice if I could find a full 3D rendering of the lathe and all the parts, but I don't think that one is out there.

-Matt


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## brino (May 22, 2015)

Hi Matt,

Welcome aboard!

My first lathe was a small Atlas/Craftsman (the exact number escapes me.....). It was a great experience! Not because the lathe was perfect and I could start churning out a bunch of projects, but because it quickly taught me a bunch of things: what to look for when buying any machine tool(used or new), the limits of a lathe with small capacities(swing and between centres), the limits of a machine tool with small flexible ways and gibs.

Don't take this wrong, I do NOT mean to discourage you, I would not change a thing about it. I learned to modify my methods to make jobs work better on small, worn equipment. I learned what "slop" mattered for what operations. For instance, for parting I could lock the carriage and substantially reduce chatter.

I'd say start slow.
First make sure it's safe; replace the belts, make sure there are no structural problems, cracked chuck/faceplates.
Clean everything, that will be a good time to go over it.
After cleaning out all lubrication points and re-filling them try a few small projects even in wood, plastic or aluminum.

Once you understand the operation of the lathe better, you'll be much better qualified to perhaps disassemble one lead-screw to see where the backlash is and what can be done about it.

The backgears allow a very slow spindle speed used for threading and any other operation calls for it. It's really about surface feet per minute (SFM or SFPM) at the cutter edge. Based on the tool, the material and the operation you can look-up the SFPM and then based on the diameter of the work calculate the appropriate RPM. I made a list of SFPMs for different tools and materials, and a conversion table for SFPM to RPM in excel, laminated it and hung it on my shop door.

My second lathe had some broken teeth on some gears. The previous owner repaired them...I'll try to post back with some pictures...

For the broken feed handles, is there room to drill a hole and tap it for a bolt as a new handle. You could even get fancy with a piece of pipe over the bolt for a handle that spins.

If you want a DRO and have the money to play with then why not? Small ones can be found, or even a cheap digital caliper bodged on.

Have Fun!
-brino


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## Matthew Nelson (May 22, 2015)

Thanks @brino.  I like the idea of drilling and tapping the handles for now.  The guy I got the lathe from also gave me a tool box full of drill bits, taps, dies, and stuff like that.  Many hundreds of them, but nothing is sorted yet.  Think I'll work on that over the long weekend.  I should have something in there that will work.


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## brino (May 22, 2015)

Matthew, Your Welcome.

One thing this group loves is photos! 
If you could find a few minutes to get some of your "new" machine and any of the pieces that you cannot identify I know we would appreciate them.

-brino


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## kingmt01 (May 23, 2015)

DRO is nice. Is get it to turning & making chips first tho. You may even break a few more parts learning. Try to make what ever parts you need before buying them. After all that is why you got it right.

When you drill & tape it keep in mind making the handle that replaces it. That would be a nice project to learn on. 

You do need a way of measuring. Cheap indicators, calipers, & mics will get you started. I don't know the size of that lathe but I'm sure you'd have room for iGuaging scales or fixing calipers to it. 

I built my DRO with iGuaging scales, msp430, & Touch DRO for Android. I got the scales cheap so it cost me less then $200 per machine.


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## brino (May 23, 2015)

kingmt01 said:


> I built my DRO with iGuaging scales, msp430, & Touch DRO for Android. I got the scales cheap so it cost me less then $200 per machine



Hey kingmt01
Not to highjack this thread, but would you consider taking some pictures and doing up a new thread for those?
Thanks!
-brino


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## kingmt01 (May 23, 2015)

Hmm. It takes me awhile to get around to this stuff. I think I have some shared publicly on my g+. Look me up by name Mt King. I'll try to take some pictures of them mounted on the mill.


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## janvanruth (May 24, 2015)

replace the belt with a serpentine belt, a world of difference from the old belts
in order to do so you will have to pull the spindle
but you should do that anyhow as you will  have to clean and inspect the oilpassages and spindle bearings
and stop buying things for the lathe until you know what to buy
buying a thread dial for a lathe with a busted backgear is money spent prematurely


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## Matthew Nelson (May 26, 2015)

Great advice everyone. THANK YOU!!  I have some pictures on my phone.  I'll get them posted soon.

-Matt


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## Matthew Nelson (May 26, 2015)

Here's the broken back gears:



The other side has more missing teeth.

-Matt


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## Matthew Nelson (May 26, 2015)

Here's a picture of the broken handles:



I've been using the back-end of a drill-bit to move things around for now.  

-Matt


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## kingmt01 (May 26, 2015)

You could braze in a piece of metal there, make a forum tool, & brooch those teeth back in.

ETA: I'd make that handle for sure.


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## francist (May 26, 2015)

Can you braze onto zamak? I didn't think you could.

I'd give a go at making the missing handle parts too rather than buying all new ones. Good first project for the new machine and you really won't wreck anything if you have to make a few tries at them.

-frank


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## Matthew Nelson (May 26, 2015)

Wouldn't I need a torch to do that?  If so, that's something I don't have, nor have I ever brazed or welded anything (other than soldering wires).

-Matt


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## george wilson (May 26, 2015)

About HSS steel bits softening from heat: That isn't going to happen. HSS can be well above red hot and still cut steel. There used to be an old South Bend lathe advertisement. It showed an welding torch heating a HSS lathe tool red hot while it still cut steel in the lathe. Actually,the ad was for the virtues of HSS,not the lathe. HSS is TEMPERED at 1000 degrees after being hardened.


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## george wilson (May 26, 2015)

Check the nuts that the crossfeed and compound screws thread through. Those nuts can get loose and cause a lot of backlash in the parts. If they are tight,look at the teeth of the threads in the center of their length. Worn Acme threads are noticeably thinner where they are worn. Some Acme threaded rod stock will be accurate enough to make new threads from. The nuts,you will have to find on Ebay,where Atlas lathes are always being taken apart and sold as parts. They get more money out of a lathe that way.


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## kingmt01 (May 26, 2015)

I didn't realize they were made of Zamac but yes you can use http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-low-temperature-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.html .

I'd cut out a piece biger at the bach the the teeth your replacing. Make it big enough to have a little press. I'd also push everything into clay to hold it in place & help hold the tempture in. You need a propane tourch to weld it. You could probably get by with a butane tourch like this http://www.harborfreight.com/micro-torch-42101.html .


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## george wilson (May 26, 2015)

The best thing and the easiest thing to do is find the gears on Ebay.


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## kingmt01 (May 26, 2015)

What fun is in easiest? With that mind set why even be in this as a hobby? Easiest would be to pay someone else to make the things you do for you.


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## VSAncona (May 27, 2015)

I'd vote for just buying the back gear, too. They are pretty cheap and plentiful on eBay. Yeah, you could repair the one you have, but it's not a job for a beginner. Get the lathe running with as little effort as possible so that you can start using it and learning. Save the broken back gear and down the road if you want to try repairing it, you can.

On the other hand, those handles can easily be made and would be a great learning project.


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## ChattyMatty (May 27, 2015)

A couple things I notice... the comment about "I've never done anything that complicated in my life"... I just went through mine, also my first lathe, and though not complicated, there are a lot of little parts on this guy, and while the parts manual is a great help, it's no step by step shop manual. Go slow, take lots of pictures. If you've ever rebuilt a carburetor you'll be fine. 

The second is that one of your missing handles is in your back gear- that lever is actually from your compound wheel not lost.

As much as you may be lusting to get into that headstock, I'd start with all the other parts fist to get yourself accustomed to the type of 1930's engineering you'll be encountering- go through your tailstock first, then clean and rebuild the compound, then dive into the headstock, paying special attention the three spring loaded detent balls you don't want to lose- one is between the headstock casting and the round disk which holds the back gear lever, one is in the larger gear on engagement pin (not an issue until after you have removed the gear for cleaning and are disassembling it) and the third is in the casting of the headstock itself under the indexing pin. When you tap the indexing pin out to clean it, just be aware there is a spring loaded ball under there.


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## brino (May 27, 2015)

ChattyMatty said:


> The second is that one of your missing handles is in your back gear- that lever is actually from your compound wheel not lost.



hey, good eye ChattyMatty!
-brino


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## kingmt01 (May 27, 2015)

I had to go back & find it after it was pointed out. I agree with good eye. Still need them for the compound tho.


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## Wierd Harold (May 27, 2015)

brino said:


> Hey kingmt01
> Not to highjack this thread, but would you consider taking some pictures and doing up a new thread for those?
> Thanks!
> -brino


Here is a link to the DRO project. I did my X2 mill and it is great. I will probably add one to the tail stock and cross feed of my lathe.
http://www.yuriystoys.com/p/android-dro.html
WH


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## mws (May 27, 2015)

Congratulations on the new lathe. My condolences to your wife on your new hobby.   You should have many hours of satisfaction making and fixing things, beginning with your new lathe.  On those busted gear teeth... whenever I've had metals that I wasn't comfortable brazing or welding I've had good luck with this method.  I make a dovetail undercut in the gear where the teeth were lost and slide a block of replacement teeth into the dovetail.  First, make both a positive and negative profile template of the "good" teeth.   Next, file out the old teeth and continue into the gear about 2/3 the tooth depth.  I usually start the undercut of the dovetail with a fine hacksaw and clean up with a small file after.  Next I make block to fit the hole and then cut the teeth using hacksaw and file.  That's where the profile gauges come in handy.  The pressure angle of the gearing hold the block into the gear in use and as long as the block is a snug fit I've never had one come apart.  I little prick punching to help hold it couldn't hurt though. 

Also, when I get a new piece of equipment that needs much work I just tear it down and repair/restore anything needing attention. Do it once and be done with it.  Just my method.

I tried uploading a sketch but am having difficulty uploading jpg's to an album .  I'll edit this post if that changes.


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## LX Kid (May 27, 2015)

Matthew Nelson said:


> So I took the plunge and bought a lathe.  It's my first "real" tool.  I got a Craftsman 101 (same as an Atlas 618 from what I've been reading).  It wasn't too hard of a decision since it was almost free.  The guy also gave me a nice Craftsman bench grinder and two tool boxes full of misc. stuff (most of which I'm not sure what they are).
> 
> It sat unused for a while, plus it needs some work.  I'm looking for some advice on the best order of operations to get this little champ working well again.  Once I got it home and put back together, I turned it on for a quick test run.  There are a few issues right off the bat that I know need to be addressed:  1- The back-feed gears have a bunch of broken or missing teeth (um... but I don't know what the back-feed is used for... ).  2- The Eccentric Handle has a too much play, and doesn't stay in place (not sure if that's the right name, but it's the small lever that engages the back-feed gears).  3- The handles for the cross slide and compound are broken.  4- The auto-feed lever doesn't engage the auto-feed.  5- The belts are totally frayed and kinda scare me.  6- The oil in the wells on either side of the spindle has solidified.  7- It's missing the threading dial, but I ordered one from eBay yesterday.  8- There's quite a bit of play (backlash?) in every handle.
> 
> ...



I had the same lathe for about a year or two and sold it about four years ago.  They will make a good hobby lathe but do have some limitations being as small as they are.


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## LX Kid (May 27, 2015)

My motor was mounted und the roll-a-round stand which worked out pretty well.  Did you get the change gears with it?


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## Matthew Nelson (May 27, 2015)

LX Kid said:


> My motor was mounted und the roll-a-round stand which worked out pretty well.  Did you get the change gears with it?


If the "Change Gears" are the set of additional gears on a spool (that look like they've never been used), then yes.  I did.


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## RETIREDSPARKY (May 27, 2015)

Congratulations on your new toy! I bought one about 6 years ago and never regretted it for a moment! I have made some people on e-bay wealthy buying parts and tooling to go with it. Mine had no extra parts (and missing many needed parts as well, just like yours) with it and I am still making parts for it and my 15"x 96" Sheldon lathe. The lathe is a fascinating piece of machinery. It has been said that the lathe is the only machine that can build itself. Mine is currently set up doing milling with attachments Built on the lathe. 

    As far as DRO goes, I never have seen enough need for it to justify the cost. You might later on as you build and get more experience. You have gotten some GREAT advice from some very knowledgeable people here. I think you will do well on this adventure. And you never stop learning new things about machine work! 

RETIRED SPARKY


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## Matthew Nelson (May 27, 2015)

OK, so I've started taking the compound apart for cleaning and re-lubing (is that a word?).  One of the pieces has a hole that I can't figure out it's purpose (I think this is the "Compound Graduated Collar" but I'm not sure).  The hole was full of grease, and I'm pretty sure that't it.  Did something get lost, or is this just a hole?  Thanks.


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## kingmt01 (May 27, 2015)

Does it go through & bigger on the other side? If so I'd guess spring & plunger to help it track with the handle when the set screw isn't locked. If not it would be on the wrong side for that & I'd have no idea.


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## Matthew Nelson (May 27, 2015)

kingmt01 said:


> Does it go through & bigger on the other side? If so I'd guess spring & plunger to help it track with the handle when the set screw isn't locked. If not it would be on the wrong side for that & I'd have no idea.



Nope, it doesn't go all the way through.  I'd guess maybe half way.  I haven't found any corresponding hole that it might line-up with, nor have I been able to find any picture online that shows the same thing.


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## kingmt01 (May 27, 2015)

Might still be a detent hole that takes a barring to hold it away from the compound. Someone with one should be along that actually knows instead of guessing.


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## GarageGuy (May 27, 2015)

You've bought a good project lathe to learn on.  When you've made all the repairs and you're ready to upgrade (notice I said "when"), you'll have one to sell and make the upgrade easier financially.  That gives the wife less to be unhappy about.  Each time you upgrade you'll learn more and gain confidence to become a better machinist.  

I'm on my 4th lathe.    My first two upgrades were free.  I paid the same for the new one as I got for my old one.  The last upgrade only cost $300 after I sold the previous machine.  I moved up from a 10" machine to a 13" (didn't even need any pills ).  Your current machine will be worth much more when it is in good working condition.

GG


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## Matthew Nelson (May 27, 2015)

Thanks for all the advice so far.  Should I move this start-up/ re-build discussion over to the Atlas/Craftsman section of the forum?

-Matt


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## kingmt01 (May 27, 2015)

As long as the thread is still active & you don't have different questions I'd let the thread run.


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## pollardd (May 27, 2015)

Hi Matt,
I have an Altas lave the next size up from yours.  I came across a lot of similar problems to yours when I first got it.
One by one I the things that needed doing the most and fixed them.
One of my Feed gears had a tooth missing.  I think a previous owner had replaced the original zirmac (or what ever that stuff is) with a bronze gear.  It was the bronze gear that had the missing tooth.  I brazed up the gap and then using a triangle file I recreated the tooth shape.

Of course it isn't exact but neither is the well worn tooth next to it 

So if you can find something that will stick to zirmac I'd say never underestimate the power of a file.

Here is a link to my Lathe Repair Post. 
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/ill-just-take-this-one-part-off.19398/

BTW my cross feed handle fell off the other day.  I notice it was not threaded and it must have originally been a press fit.
So I used a centre punch on the shaft of the handle in a couple of places and tapped the handle back into the hole again.  If you make your self a handle with the shaft .001 or .002" bigger than the hole you should be able to fit it in the hole with out the need to make threads.

Have Fun!
David


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## mws (May 27, 2015)

mws said:


> Congratulations on the new lathe. My condolences to your wife on your new hobby.   You should have many hours of satisfaction making and fixing things, beginning with your new lathe.  On those busted gear teeth... whenever I've had metals that I wasn't comfortable brazing or welding I've had good luck with this method.  I make a dovetail undercut in the gear where the teeth were lost and slide a block of replacement teeth into the dovetail.  First, make both a positive and negative profile template of the "good" teeth.   Next, file out the old teeth and continue into the gear about 2/3 the tooth depth.  I usually start the undercut of the dovetail with a fine hacksaw and clean up with a small file after.  Next I make block to fit the hole and then cut the teeth using hacksaw and file.  That's where the profile gauges come in handy.  The pressure angle of the gearing hold the block into the gear in use and as long as the block is a snug fit I've never had one come apart.  I little prick punching to help hold it couldn't hurt though.
> 
> Also, when I get a new piece of equipment that needs much work I just tear it down and repair/restore anything needing attention. Do it once and be done with it.  Just my method.
> 
> I tried uploading a sketch but am having difficulty uploading jpg's to an album .  I'll edit this post if that changes.


Here's the image I couldn't upload earlier.  But as someone mentioned earlier, if the gears are available readily on ebay I'd probably go that way depending on price. 













Toothrepair



__ mws
__ May 27, 2015


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## ChattyMatty (May 28, 2015)

I noticed the same hole in mine, gave thought to a detent ball as well, but as mentioned no corresponding dimple so just ignored it.


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## mws (May 28, 2015)

ChattyMatty said:


> I noticed the same hole in mine, gave thought to a detent ball as well, but as mentioned no corresponding dimple so just ignored it.



I'm pretty confident that hole was used for registering the part on a mandrel before engraving the graduations.  Once you get your lathe up and running a nice first project would be to make a little knurled thumbscrew to replace that Allen screw in that part.  I can't imagine having to go fiddle with a wrench every time I wanted to zero my feed screw indicator.


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## ChattyMatty (May 28, 2015)

Yeah, soon as I posted that thought occurred to me too with regard to indexing. Actual first project is to come up with a dial that is actually legible, little bugger is tiny and in my case, pitted and worn to the point half of it is illegible. Not like it's more than a general reference at that scale anyway, but it's be nice to have something maybe in a grey anno aluminium in a slightly larger diameter. Besides, it's and excuse to build that tabletop CNC mill I've been threatening to build for too long now


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## Matthew Nelson (May 28, 2015)

I'd love a better indexing dial.  I have a hard time seeing the little marks.  If you end up doing it, please post your process/ progress and results.


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## mattthemuppet2 (May 28, 2015)

congrats on your new lathe, I have exactly the same one that I'm in the process of rebuilding.

Belts - 3L v belts off eBay - measure the ones you have and buy the same lengths. If one is 250mm long, it'll be a 3L250. I got mine for $4.99 each from an eBay seller who sells lawnmower parts. To replace the one on the spindle you'll have to take the spindle out, which you must do very _carefully_. Check out the how to on Deans Photographica (or similar, a web search should find it). You have to make sure you remove the woodruff key on the spindle under the back gear (and any burrs on the spindle from the back gear set screw) before removing the spindle or you'll damage the spindle bearing.

Back gears - if that lever is flopping around, most likely you're missing the ball bearing that fits into the handle and drops into an open or closed detent in the headstock. I think I have a back (bull?) gear that might be in better shape than yours. Not great shape, but better. I'll dig it out and see if it's usable. If it is, I'll PM you and get it in the post.

I'd personally recommend stripping it down, cleaning it and putting it back together. You'll get to know how everything works and you'll be comforted by the thought that there's no crud in there wearing stuff down as you use it. It's really simple to take to pieces, but there are a bunch of woodruff keys around that you have to remove. I take them out and put them in little baggies with whatever other bits they go with so I don't lose them.

Also, congrats on getting the change gears, that's a huge plus!


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## The Liberal Arts Garage (May 28, 2015)

Bravo!  Nothing like cleaning things to understand them. Get the manual& parts list
first.  And a clipboard and durable paper..........BLJHB.


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## brino (May 29, 2015)

Matthew Nelson said:


> The back-feed gears have a bunch of broken or missing teeth



Earlier I promised some photos of how the previous owner replaced/repaired some spur gear teeth on my lathe (4-1/2" Barnes).
Here they are. 
That lathe is collecting a little dust since I got my "new" 1937 SouthBend.

For the bull gear, they put a small bolt thru from the back, then brazed around it to fill, and then finally formed the teeth.
For the spur gear they didn't bother with the screw.

These gears are steel, but other materials (as pointed to above) could be used for zamak.

-brino


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## brino (May 29, 2015)

The Liberal Arts Garage said:


> Bravo! Nothing like cleaning things to understand them. Get the manual& parts list
> first. And a clipboard and durable paper.



.......all that and also take many, many pictures!
They are invaluable for showing how it originally went together.

-brino


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## kingmt01 (May 29, 2015)

I used to use a video camera when taking stuff apart so I knew how to put it back together. I've been doing it so long I don't need one any more but it was handy. Now I just need someone to help me find where I put that tool. Maybe it is time to start using the camera again to find my tools.


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## Cadillac STS (Jun 1, 2015)

For your belt replacement you could use one of these adjustable ones that can come apart so you don't have to remove the spindle.  They are quieter than stock and smoother running.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACCU-Link-S...063?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35ea4103df


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jun 1, 2015)

he'd need to get a 3/8 one though


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## Andre (Jun 1, 2015)

Since all the gears in your machine (and most all Craftsman and Atlas machines) are made from Zamac, it would be best to make the replacement gear teeth out of the same material. If you made that piece out of steel or even aluminum, it would erode the mating Zamac gear. One of the problems with soft material bearing surfaces is uneven wear. From what I've heard, the different in hardness between two mating gears should (ideally) be 1-2 RHC (Rockwell Hardness scale C). Making the new gear or gear section out of steel would make for too much of a difference in hardness and promote uneven wear.


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## Andre (Jun 1, 2015)

mattthemuppet said:


> he'd need to get a 3/8 one though



http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACCU-Link-S...972?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35e695ce04

Also an interesting test between standard belt and V-link belts. Take it for what it's worth, as on a tablesaw the belt is moving moving much faster than on a lathe and might act differently.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nc4Mt-O5tcQ


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## yendor (Jun 2, 2015)

Link Belts are directional as to the way the links are oriented and rotation.
If backwards they will howl as the tabs will catch more wind resistance. That may have been his problem.


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## Cadillac STS (Jun 4, 2015)

If the belt on the lathe needs to be changed I would use the link belt simply to avoid having to take the spindle apart before even running it at all.  The link belts are fine and most say smoother and quieter than v belts as well.  Could always change out the link belt for a v belt when the spindle is taken apart if it is ever needing to be taken apart.


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## Ed of all trades (Jun 18, 2015)

Keep us updated. I have the same lathe and am learning a lot just trying to figure out how it works and how to fix what don't.  I could throw my lathe in the trash (I won't) and it would have paid for it's self just in the learning it has forced on me.  Keep going and thanks   Ed


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