# Clausing Drill Press (new to me)



## rwm (May 6, 2018)

I just received this Clausing drill press. It is in excellent shape with no functional issues as far as I can tell.







Now I need to try to get into the shop and in place! First issue: my shop is indoors with a wood floor. The floor is strong enough to hold this 350 lb item however where I intend to place the machine the floor is not level. It is domed up about 1/8". The floor is solid hardwood over OSB. I am wondering if I could sand or plane it flat or should I just consider leveling feet. The base on this drill is not setup to accept leveling feet so that would have to be engineered.
What are your thoughts on this?

Robert


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## amsoilman (May 6, 2018)

Sanding sounds like a easy solution


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## Al 1 (May 6, 2018)

Robert,   I need more info on the make up of the floor.  What is holding up the OSB.  Floor joists. what size? Center of joists. Span of joists.
 In your house,  In your shed , garage, or crawl space, basement?   etc.   Al.


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## Martin W (May 6, 2018)

Robert,  That's a nice looking drill press.  Could you just shim it with cedar shims? Or cut a piece of 1/2" plywood the shape of the base and scribe it level to the floor. Cut it about an 1" wide like you would a gasket so you do not have as much to sand off, and then set the drill press on top.
Happy drilling
Martin


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## benmychree (May 6, 2018)

I had one very similar, bought it new, and used for many years until I sold it with my business.  In my opinion, leveling of most drill presses is of little importance if they do not rock on an uneven floor; mine was never even bolted down, and still is not, however it is likely a good idea to do so, especially if there is a wood floor.  to avoid rocking and roughly leveling, shims would be sufficient, used under the points that are to be bolted down (likely) using lag screws.
You made an excellent choice of machine, they are quite well made and stand up to everyday use for (likely) a lifetime, or even several lifetimes.


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## mikey (May 6, 2018)

Oooh, that's my dream drill press right there, Robert! That looks like a Jacobs Super Chuck on it, too. Very well made and it has an angular contact bearing at the end of the quill. Well done, and ...



The drill press only needs to be solid, not leveled. If you aren't going to be moving it, just shim it so it doesn't move and use it.


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## rwm (May 6, 2018)

Thanks for all the replies. It will definitely rock if I put it on the floor as planned. I'll need to do something like shims or leveling feet. The house was built in 1942 so it has super thick joists. I also have a jack post very close to where I'm placing this which supports my heavier metal lathe. Also my mother-in-law weighs the same as my drill press and she has stood in that very spot!
R


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## markba633csi (May 6, 2018)

Very nice drill press- what is that device on the front? Beer can holder?  
Mark


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## rwm (May 6, 2018)

mikey said:


> Oooh, that's my dream drill press right there, Robert! That looks like a Jacobs Super Chuck on it, too. Very well made and it has an angular contact bearing at the end of the quill. Well done, and ...



I did not get this for a steal. I just wanted a good one. I'm not sure how to fix the idiot Mark in the table. We will address that later in the thread!
R


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## rwm (May 6, 2018)

markba633csi said:


> Very nice drill press- what is that device on the front? Beer can holder?
> Mark



That is a safety guard. It is spring loaded and flips down over the Chuck. I assume that was an OSHA requirement for the shop that this was operated in. I will not be using it.
R


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## randyjaco (May 6, 2018)

Congratulations on the Clausing drill press. That is one of the finest drill presses made. Enjoy it. 

Randy


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## kd4gij (May 6, 2018)

Nice score, that is one fine drill press you got there.


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## rwm (May 6, 2018)

If you are dumb enough to drill a hole in the table, can you at least drill it in the middle????
R


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## kd4gij (May 6, 2018)

If it goes all the way through, My have been drilled to hold a fixture.


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## rwm (May 6, 2018)

No way the hole is too large and way off center. The drill was skating as it went through so the hole is angled. 
So how do you fix a hole in a cast iron table? I am thinking about taping it and screwing in a cast iron plug then having the table ground. Can you get a table of this size ground?
Robert


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## kd4gij (May 6, 2018)

Shure find some one in your area with a Blanchard grinder.


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## rwm (May 7, 2018)

So this drill has an "oil table" to catch oil and coolant. I am used to regular tables with slots for hold downs. What is the proper way to fix work to this table? Just a loose drill vise? Should I consider adding a tooling plate with holes or slots? I could drill 4 small holes in the corners to hold such a plate? I could attach a t slot plate?

Maybe an aluminum T slot plate like this:






Robert


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## f350ca (May 7, 2018)

Nice drill press Robert.
For smaller work this is the handiest vice I've ever used. Was mounted on an old drill press I bought at a yard sale. Apparently they're still available but not cheap. The mounting bracket stops it from turning but allows the vice to be moved around for centering under the quill. Has a stepped jaws for thin stock and vertical and horizontal prisms in the fixed jaw for round stock.

Greg


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## chips&more (May 7, 2018)

rwm said:


> No way the hole is too large and way off center. The drill was skating as it went through so the hole is angled.
> So how do you fix a hole in a cast iron table? I am thinking about taping it and screwing in a cast iron plug then having the table ground. Can you get a table of this size ground?
> Robert


Nice DP!!! I would do the same to fix the hole except. I would cast iron plug it but only carefully file and stone the plug till flush with the table. Grinding the entire table IMHO would not have a happy ending…Dave


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## rwm (May 7, 2018)

I suspect grinding the whole table would be difficult and expensive. I like the idea of some kind of tooling plate with a center hole. 
To level the machine I have a brainstorm! The base has T slots in it. I could make a plate that attaches to that with leveling feet! Adjustable and removable! 
Robert


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## rwm (May 7, 2018)

f350ca said:


> Nice drill press Robert.
> For smaller work this is the handiest vice I've ever used. Was mounted on an old drill press I bought at a yard sale. Apparently they're still available but not cheap. The mounting bracket stops it from turning but allows the vice to be moved around for centering under the quill. Has a stepped jaws for thin stock and vertical and horizontal prisms in the fixed jaw for round stock.
> 
> Greg


That is very interesting vise. It look like a good project to make also! How is the jaw away from the handle movable?
Robert


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## f350ca (May 7, 2018)

Very handy vice Robert, wish I could remember the manufacturer, will try and remember to look when Im in the shop.
There is a lead screw inside the shaft, a slot in the side of the tube allows the jaw to attach. They make one with a release to move the jaw quickly. 

Greg


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## RandyM (May 7, 2018)

Here are a couple.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/09143132

http://www.lighttoolsupply.com/cata...Drill-Press-Vise?productID=1710&categoryID=94


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## rwm (May 7, 2018)

Thanks Randy. I can't believe how expensive those are. 
Robert


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## RandyM (May 7, 2018)

rwm said:


> Thanks Randy. I can't believe how expensive those are.
> Robert



Yeah, I wasn't really expecting that either. They are nice though.


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## rwm (May 7, 2018)

Someone needs to reverse engineer, improve the design and post up some plans!
Robert

EDIT:
Here you go!

http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/news/11/newsletter1104.pdf#page=6


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## f350ca (May 7, 2018)

lol I warned you they weren't cheap. The Wahlstrom is the one I have, looks like they don't make the one I have without the quick adjust.
Be a great project. Mine is simpler, just a tube with a lead screw down the length. The ouside jaw is fixed to the tube.

Greg


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## rwm (May 8, 2018)

So I took a belt sander to the wood floor and I think I have it pretty close to level.  I will have to bring in the drill and see how stable it is. Need to build a dolly to move it first.
I will eventually be making that drill vice that Greg posted. 'nuther thread!
Robert


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## Charles Spencer (May 9, 2018)

My drill press isn't as heavy duty as yours, but I've been using this on it for the last couple of years.  I had to disassemble some of it, file and clean it up, and put washers on where the arrows are.  It works pretty well lining things up and repeatability isn't too bad if I use a stop.


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## rwm (May 9, 2018)

Charles- I have always wondered about the utility of an X Y on the DP. I always assumed the rigidity was not sufficient to get good accuracy? Maybe if you use rigid spot drills?
Got the Clausing cleaned up and removed the blue sticker around the top since it was half off anyway. I will get some pics when I move it in.
I sanded the wood floor with a belt sander and got it close to level.
Robert


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## rwm (May 9, 2018)

What do you guys think about this hole?












I have two thoughts:
 I could mill it into an elongated slot and use it with a mill type hold down for work holding. 
I could try to patch it.
For a patch I was thinking this. Drill it out round and then countersink. Then machine a matching cast iron disc and solder it in place. Since this is not structural can I use regular solder or must I use silver solder? I am afraid to really heat up the area and cause a crack.

I am not going to use JB weld or other polymer solutions unless someone has something really spectacular in mind.

Robert


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## Charles Spencer (May 9, 2018)

Well, that 6" Chinese cross slide vise was rather sloppy when I got it.  As I said, I tightened it up a bit.  I straightened the gibs, adjusted the gib screws, filed and sanded down the castings, cleaned up the acme screws, and installed washers to remove slack.  On the bright side, I think I paid about $70 with free shipping on Amazon.

Also, usually when I drill holes in metal I lay them out and center punch them.  So using the x-y handles to line it up is very handy for me.  That is accurate enough for most things that I do.  If I need to be within a couple of thousandths, I'd probably use my mill-drill.


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## rwm (May 14, 2018)

I just learned the date on this machine is May 2002 per Clausing. They also sent me the manual.  it is great shape. I have some ideas for upgrades. Stay tuned.
Robert


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## RandyM (May 14, 2018)

Robert,

If you haven't decided on what to do to fix the hole in the table, here is another idea. You could tap it, run a bolt into it from the bottom and grind it flush on the top.


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## Charles Spencer (May 14, 2018)

rwm said:


> I just learned the date on this machine is May 2002 per Clausing. They also sent me the manual.  it is great shape. I have some ideas for upgrades. Stay tuned.
> Robert



Shoot, I got underwear older than that.

You are a lucky bastid.


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## rwm (May 14, 2018)

RandyM said:


> Robert,
> 
> If you haven't decided on what to do to fix the hole in the table, here is another idea. You could tap it, run a bolt into it from the bottom and grind it flush on the top.



Excellent idea! I was thinking about the reverse. I will probably try that.

R


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## rwm (May 16, 2018)

What do you guys think about swapping out the motor for a servo motor like this one:






4500 rpm max. 3/4 HP. Variable speed.

R


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## rwm (May 20, 2018)

Finally made it into the shop!






No comments on the motor?
Has anyone set up a linear actuator to raise and lower the table? Seems like it would be very convenient.

Robert


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## rwm (May 23, 2018)

I am working on a vise hold down. What is the best way to attach a hand wheel to a shaft.

How should I attach the hand wheel so it won't work loose? I was considering three options. Roll pin all the way through. Thread the outer hub and use a set screw onto a flat. Clearance drill the outer hub and thread a hole in the shaft for a screw. I have used the latter option with good results. Thoughts?



Robert


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## kd4gij (May 23, 2018)

A woodruff hey would be the best. If you don't have the means to do that then a set screw and dimple the shaft.

As far as the motor, not Unless you only intend to do light work .


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## rwm (May 23, 2018)

thank you for the reply. I have the ability to do a key but I'm concerned it will thin The Hub too much. I'm a little afraid a set screw will work loose. I wonder if I have any 1/8 key stock.

As far as the motor is concerned both the original and the servo Motor are 3/4 horsepower. Would I need to de-rate the servo motor for this application?
R


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## kd4gij (May 23, 2018)

What is wrong with the stock motor?


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## rwm (May 23, 2018)

kd4gij said:


> What is wrong with the stock motor?


Nothin'. I'm just lazy about changing belts and I thought the variable speed would be nice. Plus the servo motor runs up to 4500 rpm.

I was thinking some more about the Woodruff key. My understanding is that the set screw should bear on the key? I do not have enough material in the hub diameter for that. If I put the set screw opposite the key would that be sub-optimal? I think the key would always be slightly loose and get looser over time. 
Robert


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## kd4gij (May 23, 2018)

I would put 2 setscrews 90degree apart and opposite the key. Think Y configuration


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## kd4gij (May 23, 2018)

If you are worried about the setscrews coming out you can use blue loc-tit or clear fingernail polish.


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## Cheeseking (May 23, 2018)

RandyM said:


> Robert,
> 
> If you haven't decided on what to do to fix the hole in the table, here is another idea. You could tap it, run a bolt into it from the bottom and grind it flush on the top.



Other than nothing, or simply stoning any high spots around the hole, this is exactly what I would do.


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## rwm (Jun 7, 2018)

I made an easily removable chip shield out of Lucite. 







Just sits in the oil groove.
I may cut up some digital calipers to make a DRO for the quill.
Robert


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jun 7, 2018)

I'd highly recommend a variable speed motor, makes life so much easier. I put a 1 1/2hp treadmill motor on my Walker Turner and love it. I can drill, chamfer and tap a hole all with a turn of the dial on one belt. You can also dial in the speed when drilling, which can help a great deal in harder materials.

No idea if that servo would work, don't know much about them. Most people go for a 3ph motor+vfd if starting from scratch, but I collect thrown away treadmills so I always have a motor I can use. Then its just a $60 controller and some bits'n'pieces for the control box. Just about to put one on my 6x26 knee mill, can't wait.

Lovely drill press btw, that'll give you years of pleasure.


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## rwm (Jun 7, 2018)

Thanks Matt- I will consider that.
I think I just found a problem with this drill. In use, I notice a rattle that can be heard as well as felt through the quill feed. The quill feeds smoothly with the machine off and this only occurs when it is running. It also seems to be limited to the first 3/4" of feed.  Before I pull apart the quill and spindle, does anyone have a good idea what this may be? I am wondering if the spline on the spindle or the pulley is worn/dammaged? The top part of the spline that is visible looks perfect. Could it be one of the spindle bearings? There is no significant runout of the spindle. One solution could be to put a spacer on the quill to eliminate the first 3/4" of travel.
Robert


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jun 7, 2018)

you're welcome

rattles - quite likely a pulley is loose on its shaft. Recheck all the keys and set screws. My mill made a helluva racket until I tightened the set screw on the motor pulley. Why the first 3/4" of quill travel though?


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## rwm (Jun 7, 2018)

Definitely not a loose pulley. (?)
And this attachment may help a few people.












Robert


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jun 7, 2018)

quill return spring? How does the quill return when you release the handle? Might be that it's one notch out of adjustment and the spring is rattling around in the housing until it's tensioned by moving the quill past 3/4".

Spline wear in the 1st 3/4" of the splines? Pulley cover rattling against the body of the drill press?

not much else to go wrong with these things, they're pretty simple machines at the end of the day.


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## rwm (Jun 8, 2018)

My fear is it is spline wear.
R


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jun 8, 2018)

best bet is to drop the quill out and see. That way you can check the splines, the return spring and the bearings all at the same time. Should be hard to do - on my WT you lock the quill lock, take off the return spring and pull the handle out. The quill then just falls out of the bottom (literally, if you haven't locked the quill!). The spindle bearings on mine were a bit rough, so I cleaned out the ancient grease and regreased them, seem to be fine now.


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## Silverbullet (Jun 8, 2018)

I'd fill the hole with epoxy mixed with cast iron grindings . Itll fill in tight and look like cast iron. With a little fileing and sanding your fixed. Not perfect but better. The noise I hope is nothing much ,I've never had one that didn't make that noise. It's kind of inherent to the way there made. I bet the slowest speed will be the most used , most drill presses run way to fast for metal working.


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## rwm (Jun 8, 2018)

For now, I think I am going to leave the hole and use it to lock down the vise. The location is not ideal but it will work.

I took apart the quill assy:






All of the parts are in excellent condition with one exception. I believe the bearings that hold the pulley carrier have a little slop. The spline seems almost perfect. Also I just discovered that a set screw is missing from the pulley. It must have been thrown at some point in its life. The pulley was still very tight and held by a key and retaining clip so no rotary movement there. This may however, have contributed to the problem since the pulley's position keeps the bearing stack together. If the pulley migrated slightly upward you could get some end play in the stack.

I have ordered new 6205-DS bearings. There is also a little teflon washer that is beat up but it is a proprietary washer to fit the spline so I don't think I will easily find that. (unless you know where?). The spindle bearings seem perfect with no end play there.

Aside: Am I the only one who thinks Jacobs Super Chucks have too much travel to lock and unlock the jaws? My South bend chuck seems much better in this regard.

Robert


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## dlane (Jun 8, 2018)

I seen all of those last week


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## rwm (Jun 9, 2018)

dlane said:


> I seen all of those last week



Yes you did! Well designed isn't it?!
Does anyone have an idea about the bearing ratings for this. I ordered ABEC 1 rated bearings. Is that a mistake? 
Robert


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## dlane (Jun 9, 2018)

I ended up with Timken  ABEC 3 according to the guy at the bearing Shop for all four, a little over $120.00
But they were made in turkey 
Yes they are well made, #1 bearings should be fine, it’s a drill press


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## rwm (Jun 12, 2018)

New bearings and it feels much smoother.
Finished the DRO:






Importantly, I made no modifications to the drill itself. I used all existing mounts.
I just measured the runout on the Southbend  drill chuck you see in the picture. .007= crap. Going back to the Jacobs Superchuck. That is about .003

Robert


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jun 13, 2018)

nice!


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## rwm (Jun 27, 2018)

This drill press has a Jacobs 14N Superchuck. It did not come with a key so I looked online and found that it uses a Jacobs K3 key. This key does not seem to fit the chuck very well. The diameter of the gear teeth on the key do not fully engage the teeth on the chuck. Do I have the correct key? What am I missing?

Robert


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## RandyM (Jun 28, 2018)

rwm said:


> This drill press has a Jacobs 14N Superchuck. It did not come with a key so I looked online and found that it uses a Jacobs K3 key. This key does not seem to fit the chuck very well. The diameter of the gear teeth on the key do not fully engage the teeth on the chuck. Do I have the correct key? What am I missing?
> 
> Robert



Robert, if you have identified the chuck and key correctly, then they should be the correct matches. I had a chuck that the key never really did fit very well and got worse as time went on. I contacted Jacobs and they said to send them the chuck. Turned out that it needed a rebuild and they now longer made the replacement parts for that chuck and they sent me a brand new one. My chuck seemed to work just fine other than the key just didn't fit it very well. My point is, maybe your chuck needs a rebuild kit.


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## rwm (Jun 28, 2018)

Interesting thought. Could the outer sleeve be pressed on in the wrong place so the distance to the gear teeth is too great?
Robert


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## RandyM (Jun 28, 2018)

rwm said:


> Interesting thought. Could the outer sleeve be pressed on in the wrong place so the distance to the gear teeth is too great?
> Robert



Well, it sounds like something is letting it reside at the incorrect distance.


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## rwm (Jun 29, 2018)

I decide that I need a place to hold drills and accessories near my DP. My small shop does not permit much space for this so I figured a table mounted to the DP column would be efficient:
















This is very solid. Need to find a friend with a pan brake to make the table with a small lip.

Robert


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## rwm (Jun 29, 2018)

It just doesn't seem like the teeth are fully engaged to me. The key tries to torque away when you tighten it:






The sleeve seems to be pressed on correctly?






Can the sleeve be moved closer (further down)? Does the sleeve have a boss or lip that stops its travel when pressing? I have never disassembled a drill chuck.

Robert


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## RandyM (Jun 30, 2018)

rwm said:


> It just doesn't seem like the teeth are fully engaged to me. The key tries to torque away when you tighten it:
> 
> The sleeve seems to be pressed on correctly?
> 
> ...



Robert, I too have never disassembled a chuck. But, what I can tell you is that is exactly how my broken chuck was when they asked me to send in to them. Like I said they no longer made the repair parts for my chuck and sent me a brand spanking new one.


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## rwm (Jun 30, 2018)

The rebuild kit for this chuck is almost as much as a new chuck! Silly. The chuck has no evidence of wear and seems to be assembled correctly. I am wondering if I have a defective key. Anyone out there happen to have a K3 key they could measure?
Robert


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jul 2, 2018)

usually when you reassemble a drill chuck you press the sleeve on (really you press the body into the sleeve) until the key properly engages and then you're good. Don't know about superchucks as I've only ever done plain bearing chucks, but I would imagine that they work the same. Won't take much movement or force to get it right.


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## rwm (Jul 3, 2018)

The videos I have seen of Jacobs chucks show the sleeve being pressed until it bottoms out? Is that wrong?
Robert


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jul 7, 2018)

it's a while since I last did one, but there's a bit of wriggle room in how far you press it in. If you press the body into the sleeve far enough that the key won't fit, you press the body out a wee bit until it does, and vice versa. Looks like the body on yours was pressed in too far. Just put it in a press, supporting the sleeve with the jaws 1/2 way out and carefully press on the top of the body (not the jaws) a smidge, should be a piece of cake. Like I said, I've never done a ball bearing chuck, but they're still pretty simple. Take your time and if possible use an arbor press.


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## rwm (Jul 8, 2018)

mattthemuppet2 said:


> it's a while since I last did one, but there's a bit of wriggle room in how far you press it in. If you press the body into the sleeve far enough that the key won't fit, you press the body out a wee bit until it does, and vice versa. Looks like the body on yours was pressed in too far. Just put it in a press, supporting the sleeve with the jaws 1/2 way out and carefully press on the top of the body (not the jaws) a smidge, should be a piece of cake. Like I said, I've never done a ball bearing chuck, but they're still pretty simple. Take your time and if possible use an arbor press.



Thanks Matt. I will give it a try when I have access to a press.
Robert


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## rwm (Aug 23, 2018)

Since my drill press has the oil table, I need a way to clamp work and have a space below to drill through. Here is my idea:







I found a 10" lathe faceplate on eBay. This has 6 T slots and a center hole. It is about 2" thick and weight in at 33 lbs. I plan to make an aluminum plug to make the center hole smaller. I can use the t slots for clamping. I am torn about needing to routinely secure the faceplate to the table. I highly doubt the drill could spin this massive object except maybe when drilling a rather large hole. I have a plan to make an arm that extends from one of the t slots to the column if needed. I have never seen a faceplate used this way but it seems to be much like the round drill press tables that you see.

I still did not finish the accessory tray since I don't have access to  a pan brake. I will post that up when I get it done.
Robert


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## rwm (Aug 23, 2018)

Worked on it this morning. Like this:






Robert


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## rwm (Aug 25, 2018)

T-slot nut:





I made 2.
R


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## rwm (Aug 31, 2018)

Matt- you were all over this one! I pressed the collar on the chuck about 1mm towards the jaws and now the key is a perfect fit! 
Thank you.
Robert


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## rwm (Sep 3, 2018)

Anti-rotation arm:






Slides into the T-slot and brackets the column. Still allows one to move the table a little to line up a punch mark.

Robert


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## rwm (Sep 24, 2018)

I finally finished my accessory table:






I found stainless baking trays on eBay super cheap. 

Robert


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## rwm (Oct 27, 2018)

My drill press came with a high quality industrial on-off switch, however, it was a push button switch and not easy to hit in a panic stop. I decided to swap it out for a safer switch. I think this is an improvement:






Robert


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## rwm (Dec 15, 2020)

I just got this sewing machine motor in the mail today:







In spite of its small size it is rated at 1HP and goes up to 4000 RPM. I plan to replace the drill press motor with this and have the added advantage of full speed control. I hope the torque will be adequate. I plan to use the pulleys to get about a 2:1 speed reduction.

This motor comes with a max speed setting on the control box as well as a variable speed foot pedal. Here is the pedal control:





As you can see, it uses a magnet that sweeps over a Hall effect sensor. I am not versed in the operation of these sensors. I would like to convert this to a simple ON/OFF switch that starts the motor at maximum speed. Can anyone help me bypass the Hall sensor to achieve this? There are 3 wires coming from the circuit board. I assume red is V+, black is Ground and Yellow is Signal? Can I simply connect yellow to V+ and get a full speed input?
Any other comments welcome.
Robert


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## hman (Dec 16, 2020)

I'd suppose that the easiest way to find an answer would be to hang a voltmeter between one of the power leads and the output lead, turn the motor on, and set the speed control to max.  If yellow goes to the same (or nearly the same) voltage as red, you can be assured it's safe to connect the two directly.  The circuit board does not appear to have any other active components on it, so I doubt you'll have any trouble.


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## rwm (Dec 17, 2020)

hman said:


> I'd suppose that the easiest way to find an answer would be to hang a voltmeter between one of the power leads and the output lead, turn the motor on, and set the speed control to max.  If yellow goes to the same (or nearly the same) voltage as red, you can be assured it's safe to connect the two directly.  The circuit board does not appear to have any other active components on it, so I doubt you'll have any trouble.


Well it's interesting....There is 5v across the red and black leads. The yellow goes to +5 when on full speed. However, I clipped of the leads from the circuit board and now I get a P4 error on the controller. P4 corresponds to Pedal Malfunction. Even with the error code, connecting the yellow to the red gets the motor to run at full speed. I tried putting a 1K resistor between the red and black but that does not stop the error code. I can use it this way, but any ideas?
Robert


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## rwm (Dec 17, 2020)

I find it hard to make pulleys.






Got to get that 17 deg angle set and go back and forth and all that.
Robert


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## hman (Dec 17, 2020)

rwm said:


> Well it's interesting....There is 5v across the red and black leads. The yellow goes to +5 when on full speed. However, I clipped of the leads from the circuit board and now I get a P4 error on the controller. P4 corresponds to Pedal Malfunction. Even with the error code, connecting the yellow to the red gets the motor to run at full speed. I tried putting a 1K resistor between the red and black but that does not stop the error code. I can use it this way, but any ideas?
> Robert


Maybe ... reconnect the Hall sensor, with a DC ammeter between +5 and the sensor.  Calculate the correct dummy resistor load (R=E/I) from the current and 5 volts.  Also verify that it doesn't vary too much when changing speed.

While you're at it, you could try measuring the voltage between +5 and the sense lead when "full on."  If the voltage on that lead is slightly different from +5, the difference would be easier to measure that way than by trying to look for a difference between each of the leads and ground.


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## rwm (Dec 17, 2020)

I hooked up a 20K pot with red and black at each end and the yellow wire on the wiper. As I suspected, the error goes away with the pot turned all the way down. The controller is looking to see that the signal is at 0V when you start up. This is a safety issue for sewing.
I would kind of like to use the pot as a speed control but here is the new issue. When you turn the dial the response is non linear. There is no motor response until the last 10 deg of rotation. Then you can control the speed but with very fine movements. I wonder if I have an audio taper pot? Would that cause this behavior or is the controller looking for something else?
Robert


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## brino (Dec 17, 2020)

You likely just need a different pot value, one that better mimics the original magnetic sensor.

Is that last 10 degrees (where the motor works) with the wiper turned towards the red +5V lead, or with the wiper turned towards the black ground lead?

That'll tell us if you need a bigger or smaller pot value.

-brino


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## rwm (Dec 17, 2020)

The functional range is the last 10 degrees towards the red. (Wiper towards +5V). Why would a different resistance value change this? Isn't the voltage divider the same in the same angular location? I guess that would in part depend on the impedance of the yellow input wire so you may be on to something. I have since tried a pot that I know to be linear. It was a little better but still had the same issue. I am wondering if the Hall output was non-linear and the controller was tuned for that?
Robert


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## brino (Dec 17, 2020)

Oopps, I think you're right...........

My original thought was that the input was only expecting voltages say in the 4.5-5V range, so most of the pot was useless.
My mistake was thinking that changing the pot values would change that.......nope!
You're right that it's the ratio between the *two* virtual resistors made up by the pot.

But what could make a difference is putting a fixed external resistor (or two) along with the pot, to change the range it has.

Can you temporarily wire the foot switch back in and measure the voltage on the yellow wire with the pedal at zero, and the pedal fully down.
That would help define the voltage range required.



rwm said:


> I am wondering if the Hall output was non-linear and the controller was tuned for that?



I bet that is true.
Is there any part markings on it?

-brino


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## rwm (Dec 17, 2020)

You nailed it. I can put a resistor in line between the black and the pot -terminal. That would widen the functional range. I will play with values.
Robert


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## hman (Dec 17, 2020)

You could set the pot so somewhere near the "get started" point, disconnect it, and measure the resistance between the wiper and each of the ends.  Get a pot whose full range matches the "useful" range of your current pot.  Wire the ground lead to the new pot in series with a fixed resistor of appropriate size.  I've done this trick several times when kludging up new controls for salvaged equipment.  Sometimes I've even added fixed resistors to both sides of a pot.

As for linear or non-linear response, I guess that would be something you'd have to figure out by careful measurements at a number of pot settings.  Plotting the yellow wire voltage against RPM (assuming you have access to a tachometer) should tell the story.

Fixing startup error might be accomplished by adding a normally closed pushbutton between the pot wiper and the yellow lead.  Hold the pushbutton momentarily when starting the motor.  Or else, maybe use a spring return SPDT switch, with the yellow wire to the center terminal, the pot connected to the normally closed terminal, and the black wire paralleled to the normally open terminal.

PS - I took too long to write my response, so @brino beat me to it!


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## rwm (Dec 18, 2020)

Well...look like I blew the board somehow. I have no idea how. Maybe static. New board on order. When I get that I will get voltage measurements from the Hall output and see what the range is. Then I can construct an appropriate voltage divider circuit. 
Robert


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## rwm (Dec 18, 2020)

While we are waiting for my board I can show the shiny new pulley I made:







I had to cut a 5 mm keyway. So first I had to make a cutter out of a broken center drill:





Here it is starting the keyway:





Finsihed:





Perfect fit:




...on the non working motor.

Robert

BTW - Homebrewed is being kind enough to consult with me by PM on the control board issue and an appropriate bypass circuit. Most appreciated!
R


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## rwm (Dec 22, 2020)

I got the new board. It was a perfect fit and the motor runs again! I need to figure out the speed control, build a motor mount and mount the controller.





I measured some voltages from the Hall sensor in use. At full speed the Signal voltage is 4.2V. At zero rpm it is 1.5V. I need to build a voltage divider with a pot in the middle that approximates this.

Robert


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## rwm (Dec 24, 2020)

SW1 is RUN/STOP
RP1 is the speed control.
R3 Sets the minimum speed.

Robert


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## hman (Dec 24, 2020)

WOW!  That took a bit of analysis.  Glad you got to there!


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## rwm (Jan 6, 2021)

Mounted the stuff:





Hard to believe this little motor provides such torque:






Having speed control is really awesome already.

Robert


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## hman (Jan 6, 2021)

rwm said:


> Has anyone set up a linear actuator to raise and lower the table? Seems like it would be very convenient.
> Robert


I know this is a pretty old post ... but you might want to look over this thread:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/what-motor-do-i-use-for-raising-a-drill-press-table.89706/
... especially post #5, where I describe the addition of a gear motor to the table lift crank.  Other posters have made some excellent suggestions about linear actuators.

I absolutely LOVE having a powered lift on my DP table.


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## rwm (Jan 6, 2021)

Thank you. I saw that already. I am somewhat torn because I really like the old iron lifter in this machine even if it takes a little work. I would like to note, none of the upgrades I have made so far has permanently altered the machine. I have not drilled a single hole in it.
Robert


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## mattthemuppet2 (Jan 6, 2021)

that's a really cool retrofit. I'd be interested to hear what you think after you've had some time with it.

Rather than a table life for my Walker Turner (no easy way to add one) I went the other direction and added a counterweight to the table. 5 cans of dog food and one can of peaches filled with lead balances out the table and XY vise pretty well.


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## hman (Jan 6, 2021)

I can understand your wanting to keep this one "new."  I think I drilled & tapped two (three?) holes in the crank shaft boss to mount my power lift.


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## rwm (Jan 14, 2021)

Update: The new motor seems very powerful. I could not stall it with a 1.25" circle saw but the belt did slip. The variable speed is awesome to have. So far so good!
Robert


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