# New To Me Atlas 3996 12 X 36 Lathe



## TLW

Hi
  I'm new to the forum so I thought I'd at least introduce myself first. My name is Tim. I'm what you'd call an old fart, being over the age of sixty. My shop is pretty well equipped for the things I have been doing, but as everyone knows there's always room for improvement.
   My thirty year career as the fabricator for our school district started in 1980. In the 1990's the School districts eliminated "Shop Class" so I had opportunities to pick up a few pieces of machinery as the district closed the Industrial Arts shops. I would have liked to buy more but raising three kids has a way of depleting your extra spending money. I never could afford one of the South Bend lathes that were sold.

   Your probably bored by now and thinking _*"get on with it already!".*_

    After searching for a few months, I settled on what I hope to be an old "Gem in the rough". Atlas Model 3996, Ser. Number 104697. I know for sure it was used in in a school shop as I found a tag inside the drive side of the cabinet stating: _*"Metamora High School, 367-4151, Joe (scratched out) or Roger, 1/7/82 (scratched out) then 3/8/84". *_Maybe a service tag? I'm planning on doing some investigating as I fix up the old girl and get her ready for service once again. Posting pictures will be a new adventure for me as well so have patience and they will come.
                                     Thanks for taking the time to read an old mans rambling.


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## TLW

This was the picture posted on Craigs list. I took the sellers word that it was in working order. Three days later I packed up the pick-up truck and headed 3 1/2 hours South to pick it up. When I arrived it had already been broken down enough to get it out of the owners basement shop. I have not seen it run yet...Keeping my fingers crossed!


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## ch2co

Hi TL, welcome aboard!  I'd probably consider you more of  a young fart. This is a great place to learn, ask questions, BS  about stuff, and we do like pictures of your equipment, shop, and projects. The only problem is that you have to write several (5?) posts before you can send photos. 
Hope to hear more from you.

CHuck the grumpy old guy


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## TLW

Chuck,
   I have been reading this forum for a while now and must have made enough minor posts to qualify to upload photos. The last post I made I was told to start a thread on this machine and add LOTS of pic.'s....I think the folks here are just into "Cast Iron porn" so I'll try to oblige as best I can.After talking to the seller on the phone I asked him to take a few more pictures so I could get a feel of what I was getting for my money. These are the pictures I based my purchase on.


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## TLW

Two weeks later... The weather has been below 0 and its tuff to get out to the pole barn where I am cleaning things up. Basically I have used two gallons of mineral spirits, some fine steel wool various paint brushes and A LOT OF ELBOW GREASE! The last pic is of the tag I found inside the base. I have already contacted the school Industrial Arts Dept. in hopes to get a little history on her.


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## TLW

I decided to leave her unpainted, in all of her original glory, scratches, gouges, worn spots and all. The following pictures were taken today. I have to handle this stuff on my own so sometimes it ain't pretty but I'm careful not to hurt myself or the equipment.

 So here she is coming in from the cold and into the nice heated shop where she will eventually rest in a place of honor.





Whooo, Hooo! She's even sporting the new name tag. Lots of work left to do but I see the light at the end of the tunnel.Thanks for following along so far. More to come in a few days (I hope)


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## David VanNorman

I'am on old fart too. Still haveing fun get the most out of it. The lathe looks good enjoy.


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## Mondo

I guess at 63 I qualify for the O-F Club.

Here is a pic of my Craftsman Commercial 101-28990, along with some of the spare parts I have picked up over the years.

The cabinet is barely visible in lower right and the bed similarly exposed on lower shelf.

I purchased this lathe in 2010 then moved to MA.  Maybe this will be the year I get it assembled.  Meanwhile, I have a '35 vintage Craftsman Frankenlathe that I use almost daily.

Spiral_Chips


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## TLW

I managed to talk my brother into lending a hand today so the lathe has been shimmed and mounted. We didn't want to do much lifting so I took a pair of steel saw horses and slid the machine from one end to the other. Re-positioned the horses and repeat. It worked pretty well.




After leveling the base and mounting it to the floor it was time to set the lathe in place, shim and fasten it down.



Here she is in place. Now for the belts and electrical.


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## TLW

I have run into a bit of a snag. I'm trying to put the belts back onto the jack shaft and I just cant seem to get enough slack to make it onto the pullys. Is there a trick to this? I struggled for over an hour and no luck.


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## Mondo

The parts manuals for this lathe is available here:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/atlas-lathe-12-3996-12x36-rev5-pdf.1451/
Instructions for installing the belts begins on page 4 (pdf sheet 8).  If the procedure offered is not working verify the belts are the correct size.

Spiral_Chips


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## Wisrianni

Welcome! Im new to this forum as well. Looks like a great find! I was wondering if you could do me a favor. I have the same lathe as yours but craftsman branded . However on my motor there is only a one size pulley. Could you measure both steps of your motor pulley?


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## Mondo

The standard motor pulley is part number 10-428 and the pitch diameters are 2" and 4.5".

Spiral_Chips


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## westsailpat

Nice pics. TC . Lots of nice work there looking good .


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## ch2co

Well done! Great looking machine.

CHuck the grumpy old guy


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## brino

Hi Tim,

Welcome to the site!

You got a great lathe there with many accessories (both steadies, two chucks, closer and collets, milling attachment, multiple tailstock chucks, and is that a ball-turner?)....congratulations!

Thanks for all the great pictures.
-brino


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## TLW

Well I fired her up today for the first time! Back gear works as it should but I can't seem to get it into direct drive. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to get the locking pin into place for direct drive. I really don't want to pull the entire head stock apart and find out that I was doing it the wrong way. I have no experience with the Atlas. My years at work were with a South bend and even that machine sometimes took a "special touch" to get it back to direct drive.


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## brino

TLW said:


> Does anyone have any tips or tricks to get the locking pin into place for direct drive.



Hi Tim,

I have never done it on an Atlas specifically, but from looking at page 8 of the manual linked to in post 11 above by @Spiral_Chips, it look identical to a couple other lathes I have used.

Since there is only one hole position for the pin to slide into, you need to slowly rotate the pulley by hand while pressing on the pin until you find the hole.

-brino


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## wa5cab

The double spindle pulley on the 3996 has two holes 180 deg. apart.  Either will work.  Years ago, having spent time finding the hole in order to get it back into direct drive, I center punched the flat surface on the right end of the pulley in line with the pin in the bull gear once for the first hole I found and then twice for the second.


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## TLW

wa5cab said:


> The double spindle pulley on the 3996 has two holes 180 deg. apart.  Either will work.  Years ago, having spent time finding the hole in order to get it back into direct drive, I center punched the flat surface on the right end of the pulley in line with the pin in the bull gear once for the first hole I found and then twice for the second.


 
I spent a couple of hours today and still have not found a place that the bull gear pin will lock into the drive pulley....So far I noticed the pin does have a flat ground into it. Does this flat need to be facing a certain way? I also see a small ball at the end of the pin. I figure that must be the actual lock up but none of the paperwork shows this small ball? Right now I a little frustrated.


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## wa5cab

TLW,

I thought that I had a drawing of the direct drive pin but can't find it.  But in any case, it is solid one piece.  The visible end has a groove machined around it to help in pulling it out for back gear.  Hidden inside the gear is a flat on one side.  There is a hole drilled in the gear between two teeth that crosses the pin hole and goes on into the gear.  Down in this hole is a spring with a ball nosed pin on top of it.  That's all that there should be to it.  When you get up to 30 posts, you will have access to downloads.  You will find there in the Atlas category the owner's manual, including exploded view parts on the 3996.  If you will PM me your email address, I will send you the latest version of the manual as a PDF.


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## TLW

wa5cab said:


> TLW,
> 
> I thought that I had a drawing of the direct drive pin but can't find it.  But in any case, it is solid one piece.  The visible end has a groove machined around it to help in pulling it out for back gear.  Hidden inside the gear is a flat on one side.  There is a hole drilled in the gear between two teeth that crosses the pin hole and goes on into the gear.  Down in this hole is a spring with a ball nosed pin on top of it.  That's all that there should be to it.  When you get up to 30 posts, you will have access to downloads.  You will find there in the Atlas category the owner's manual, including exploded view parts on the 3996.  If you will PM me your email address, I will send you the latest version of the manual as a PDF.



Robert,
   Thanks for the quick reply. So far I have managed to peek down between the bull gear and drive pulley with a bright light and tweezers. There may be something amiss with my 3996. What I can see is, the direct drive pin is as you say but when I get way down there, there is a small ball bearing that the drive pin pushes on not a ball ended pin with a spring. 
   I guess I have no choice but to pull the spindle apart and see whats going on in there...As long as I have it apart I might as well throw on a new set of belts and get the dates off of the bearings (I'm trying to look on the bright side).
   I found a copy of the "*Atlas 12 - inch Pedestal Lathe Model 3996 Operating Instructions and Parts List"* some place on the internet. In the parts blow-up it shows just the pin as part number 10-256 no small ball bearing, spring or ball ended pin???

Tim


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## Nitmare67

I have the same lathe that I'm rebuilding. I actually just purchased a brand new lathe bed for it from Clausing. It should be here next week!

Anyways regarding the direct drive locking pin. You shouldnt have much trouble finding a engagement point for it. I would recommend disengaging the back gear first though so you can freely rotated the drive hub while holding the chuck stationary. You should feel a spot where the pin drops in. Its possible that the pin is just froze up or that its sheered and the other end is still stuck in the hub. You can loosen the set screws on the drive gears and bump the hub over enough to see down in between the drive hub and headstock gears with a flash light if need be. I have extensive pictures of my Atlas torn apart. I will upload some to photobucket and use an image tag so you can see what I'm talking about.... I dont think I have enough post for a direct upload.


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## TLW

One small step for man, one giant leap for mankind!...That's how I feel right about now. I figured out the problem with the direct drive.  As I suspected there was a problem with the bull gear. 




   What I could see from the "top" looked to me like a ball bearing when in reality it was the ball end of the ball ended pin that Robert mentioned. Here is the interesting part.....Just as I finished taking the spindle apart and discovering the problem, my friend called me and asked if I wanted to take a ride to look at a 12" table model he was considering. He made the deal on a sweet (in pristine condition) 12 inch bench top model and wouldn't you know it but the guy also just happened to have an extra bull gear with virtually no use on it except wood turning. My buddy bought the lathe and the seller threw in the extra bull geat.....Life is sweet!
   My baby is back together and almost ready for work...I still need to change her over from 220 to 120 volts.
                                                                               Life is good!
KF9XE


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## Nitmare67

Man you have some seriously good luck! lol. I would have been buying one on ebay for sure.


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## TLW

Nitmare67 said:


> Man you have some seriously good luck! lol. I would have been buying one on ebay for sure.



Nitemare,
   Before you buy anything on ebay give me a call I have found a guy that has it all....litterally this guy sells to resellers. You might want to cut out a few middlemen and save a few (lot) of $$$. I will PM you with my contact info.
KF9XE....Tim


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## Nitmare67

That sounds great. Thanks again!!


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## wa5cab

Tim,

It may be a moot point now, but the pin and spring are to the left of the gear on the standard parts drawing, #15 and #16.


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## TLW

Robert,
   I reviewed the parts blow up and sure enough, item 15 and 16! Thanks for pointing them out.
Tim


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## TLW

This piece was included with the lathe. I thought it was a carriage stop but now I'm not so sure. Can anyone identify this part?


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## wa5cab

It is a carriage stop, but different from the one I bought with my 3996.  It is direct reading, 0.050" per revolution.  Otherwise, the side nearest the bed looks like yours.


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## TLW

Robert,
   That is a picture of mine. I put it on as a carriage stop but I'm not sure if that's the correct application. There are no calibrations on either side. Both thumb wheels turn out and have a jamb nut. Yes it clamps to the ways but if you were to locate it in the normal place you could not tighten the Allen hd. cap screws...Why would you make a carriage stop with no dial? Hmmm?
   Here are a couple moer pic.'s maybe they show it a little better.


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## wa5cab

Tim,

The normal location for a carriage stop is on front of the front way, not the rear of it.  The one that you have probably wasn't made by Atlas.  The only reason I can think of for having an adjustment on both sides is that you could also use it on the right side of the carriage, if you were for example cutting a shoulder on the headstock side of a part.

Tonight, I have three carriage stops.  Two do not have dials.  I seldom pay much attention to the scale or dial on the one that has one.


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## TLW

Thanks again Robert. You are a wealth of information regarding the Atlas lathe. I am only scratching the surface myself but hope to improve as I go. Hey, whats up with the downloads? I see that I can access the download section but it shows zero downloads available! Hmmm this forum works about as well as my lathe right about now ..LOL
   I posted a question in the electrical section regarding the wiring of my lathe from 220V to 120V but no takers....Just as well,  after taking to you I decided to just run another 220 line to that area of my shop. So far I have discovered that you may be my only source of information. There were over 30 lookers at my post and  no one knew the answer. Thanks again.


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## itsme_Bernie

Robert is the Atlas dictionary, that's for sure


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## Rob

There should be a plate on the motor that lists what wires to change to go from 220V back to 120V.


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## wa5cab

Tim (and anyone else),

Re: Downloads, for historical reasons (we had several people join, spend a couple of days copying everything to their site, and then quit), access to Downloads and I think Photos requires 30 posts and ACTIVE MEMBER status, or SUPPORT (Donor) status.  You aren't far off from the former.

When you do get there, first go to the Sticky threads at the top of this forum and read H-M Downloads... for an explanation of how to find things in Downloads.


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## TLW

After running the lathe for a few hours yesterday, I heard a clunk but everything kept running as normal. Today I noticed a chunk broke out of the side wall of the upper three step pulley. I am referring to the step pulleys located on the outside of the lower cabinet.Is this a common size? The old one will probably crumble to pieces if I use a puller on it.


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## wa5cab

Tim,

They are 4-step pulleys, not 3.  The smallest step OD is 3", the largest 6".  The pitch diameters would be about 2-3/4" and 5-3/4".  I didn't attempt to measure the in-between steps but most likely 4" and 5".  The closest that McMaster has is a 2" to 4".  Two of those would probably cost you about $50 delivered (you would have to change both of them to keep the spindle speeds at least close to what they are now.  Plus you would have to buy a shorter 4L something belt.  It's quite possible that if you look around, you may find a larger pulley pair, as I doubt that Atlas had the pulleys custom made.  Otherwise, look on eBay.  Or call Clausing.


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## TLW

Well, I bit the bullet  and ordered a pair of Atlas # 10-80 step pulleys. Its kind of frustrating finding all the hacked together repairs that have been done to this machine.
   What I originally thought of as a good deal is turning out to be a lesson in "you get what you pay for". It will still be a great lathe when I'm finished its just going to cost more than I had planned.


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## TLW

wa5cab said:


> Tim,
> 
> They are 4-step pulleys, not 3.  The smallest step OD is 3", the largest 6".  The pitch diameters would be about 2-3/4" and 5-3/4".  I didn't attempt to measure the in-between steps but most likely 4" and 5".  The closest that McMaster has is a 2" to 4".  Two of those would probably cost you about $50 delivered (you would have to change both of them to keep the spindle speeds at least close to what they are now.  Plus you would have to buy a shorter 4L something belt.  It's quite possible that if you look around, you may find a larger pulley pair, as I doubt that Atlas had the pulleys custom made.  Otherwise, look on eBay.  Or call Clausing.



Robert, 
   Someone must have replaced the original step pulleys with some 3 step ones. I just keep finding stuff has been thrown together just to make it work. I looked around the internet and the Atlas step pulleys are not a very common size to replace exactly. I could find 6" 4 step but none with the 3/4" bore. Bottom line $110.00 for the pair shipped to my door.


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## wa5cab

Tim,

The McMaster pulleys, although as I wrote earlier smaller than the Atlas originals, are available in 3/4" bore.  And they have 3-step ones, as well.  Although I didn't pay any attention to what the diameters are.  Personally, I would go back with originals.  But I realize that they are a little pricey.


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## TLW

wa5cab said:


> Tim,
> 
> The McMaster pulleys, although as I wrote earlier smaller than the Atlas originals, are available in 3/4" bore.  And they have 3-step ones, as well.  Although I didn't pay any attention to what the diameters are.  Personally, I would go back with originals.  But I realize that they are a little pricey.



   I agree Robert. I ordered two Atlas 10-80 step pulleys last night off of e-bay. They should arrive by Next Tuesday March 1.
   While we are on the subject of pulleys. I just discovered there is a 2 step pulley on one end of the counter-shaft but only a single pulley on the motor! So now I need to replace the motor pulley as well. I checked on e-bay and there is one for $125.00.....That's to rich for my blood. I'll have to shop around a bit. Do you have the dimensions of that pulley? I know it has a 5/8" bore and is part number 10-428.

EDIT: Just got off the phone with Clausing and ordered the replacement motor pulley 10-428. Price was $90.00 shipped to me. I sure hope I have addressed all the pulley issues.


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## Rob

I like to check Clausing price before ordering from other places. It is cheaper new than used a lot of the time but not always. It's unreal how well they still support our old lathes after all these years.


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## wa5cab

Tim,

Sounds like you don't need it but in the Atlas Drawings folder in Downloads, there is a drawing for machining the 10-428 from bulk stock (aluminum).


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## TLW

Well, another day another adventure with the project.
    In preparation for the expected parts coming early next week I decided to get into the under drive and see what's going on down there. I removed the (wrong) motor pulley that had been in place and cleaned and oiled the motor shaft. It looks to be in good shape and ready for the new pulley. I took a good look at the counter-shaft casting...I'd like to say I was surprised but no, I actually expected a new problem and I wasn't disappointed. The shaft is scored and I think the bushings are probably beat up. Right now its late Friday evening so I'll have to wait till Monday to see what Clausing wants for a new shaft and bushings. Its a shame as this would actually be a fun project with the new lathe but right now I don't have an operational new lathe.
   I'll try to upload some pictures as soon as I can. Sorry to say this thread is turning into "Things to look for when buying your first lathe". There is a lot more to restoring a vintage machine than some elbow grease and paint. My hats off to those of you who have done a complete restoration. I can now appreciate the work you have put into the process. One thing I will say. I have learned a lot doing these repairs and enjoy the challenge. When I am finished it will run and run as it should.


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## Mondo

If Clausing's price on the shaft is steep look for TG&P drill rod in that same diameter and bronze bearings to match.  You may find that a cheaper option.
speedymetals.com is my favorite supplier for drill rod.

Spiral_Chips


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## moxie

Hi Tim,
It looks like a nice lathe.  I'm curious why there are washers under the bolt down pads of the head casting.  I would have thought that that part bolts directly to the pan and any leveling takes place under the feet of the base?  I'm 62 and I have fond memories of shop class.  I'm always sorry to hear that schools close down that subject.
Dave


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## TLW

moxie said:


> Hi Tim,
> It looks like a nice lathe.  I'm curious why there are washers under the bolt down pads of the head casting.  I would have thought that that part bolts directly to the pan and any leveling takes place under the feet of the base?  I'm 62 and I have fond memories of shop class.  I'm always sorry to hear that schools close down that subject.
> Dave



Moxie,
   According to the installation instructions from Atlas it says to do the majority of shimming under the feet of the base. The final tweaking is done under the lathe feet if you couldn't get the base perfect. After I get 'er up and running as it should I plan to remove the washers that are in place a re level the base. Hopefully I'll be able to eliminate any shims under the lathe feet.
   I did find that you are very limited in the amount of shims you can use under the feet. They effect the belt tension.


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## TLW

Spiral_Chips said:


> If Clausing's price on the shaft is steep look for TG&P drill rod in that same diameter and bronze bearings to match.  You may find that a cheaper option.
> speedymetals.com is my favorite supplier for drill rod.
> 
> Spiral_Chips



SC,
   That's a good idea. I'll probably go that route. I'd rather spend the money on a woodruff cutter to make the key-ways and have a tool when finished.


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## deegee01

Hi Tim
I bought the exact same machine about a year ago. I had the seller do some demos to determine general condition and it functioned quite well with minor signs of wear. Once at home I began cleaning everything I could readily access. In the process I discovered old swarf and grit on the gears. At this point I decided to go completely through it. I completely disassembled, inspected and cleaned every piece. It is quite a project but I'm glad I decided to do it before beginning general operations. I found several things that needed attention. I replaced the bushings on the intermediate motor drive shaft. A loose pulley on the motor shaft had damaged the shaft. I tore down the (original) motor which was otherwise in good condition. I was able to salvage the shaft by filing out the keyway and knocking off ridges caused by the loose pulley set screw. The pulley being softer was damaged beyond repair. I found another online as well as a couple of  gears in better condition than mine. I discovered a couple of loosening set screwsI replaced all the belts with the now available link type which also allows replacement of the belts without breaking down the head stock assembly which was a real SOB. I am now in the process of reassembly. Lubing and installing the various parts is quite rewarding knowing how necessary it needed to be done. It's going to be a sweet machine when completed.

The machine came with a good assortment of collets but no puller. I found steady rests, a fixed center, a milling attachment (Clausing) and all the original tool holders even though I have the same quick change post as you. Over time I will acquire more pieces as they become necessary during use. This lathe is my baby. I'm a new member too. I will post pictures after my initial posts.


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## Nitmare67

This is my lathe when I brought it home a few months ago.  I almost done with the restmod now. Also did a VFD and Vector Motor Conversion.

Before




This is where I'm at right now.





Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


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## Nitmare67

I have a brand new lathe bed coming that I will he installing hopefully next week. I rebuild the spindle, motor upgrade, Dorian QTTP, rebuild the quick change gearbox and the pan is a 14 gauge stainless steel pan I had custom made

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


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## Nitmare67

Nitmare67 said:


> This is my lathe when I brought it home a few months ago.  I almost done with the restmod now. Also did a VFD and Vector Motor Conversion.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I'm at right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


I tore everything down and replaced all of the bearings and made new bronze bushings. Bearings are the best I could find precision timkens.. about 440 dollars purchased through our business account.






Nitmare67 said:


> I have a brand new lathe bed coming that I will he installing hopefully next week. I rebuild the spindle, motor upgrade, Dorian QTTP, rebuild the quick change gearbox and the pan is a 14 gauge stainless steel pan I had custom made
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk




Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


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## deegee01

TLW said:


> Moxie,
> According to the installation instructions from Atlas it says to do the majority of shimming under the feet of the base. The final tweaking is done under the lathe feet if you couldn't get the base perfect. After I get 'er up and running as it should I plan to remove the washers that are in place a re level the base. Hopefully I'll be able to eliminate any shims under the lathe feet.
> I did find that you are very limited in the amount of shims you can use under the feet. They effect the belt tension.



Hi Tim,
I installed adjustable feet under my Atlas cabinet. I leveled up the cabinet (you can set a level at various points on the top of the cabinet and pick what you want because the cabinet is crudely made. This made shimming the lathe feet even more necessary. I bought a 6" machine level and followed the Atlas instructions. This level is extremely sensitive. Graduation marks on the bubble window are .005 per 12". I first had to place shims under the headstock end of the chip pan because the cross piece of the cabinet under the bolt holes sits lower, not flush with the rest of the cabinet. I had to give up on replacing the rubber oil seals in the pan bolt holes because I couldn't establish base leveling which would remain accurate because of compression over time. Some of my base shims are as small as .002". It took an entire day to sort through my fastener assortment to find washers and shims that would add together for the correct shim combinations and to complete the 3 point leveling (.003" deviation) measured on the ways. I also found my ways to be less than perfect. This machine level is totally unforgiving.

deegee01 (Doug) Atlas 3996 12 X 36


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## wa5cab

Nitmare,

SOP for setting the compound and tool post is to first set the compound at 30 degrees (or 29.5 degrees) on the scale on the cross slide.  Then indicate in the face of the CW tool post dove tail to be parallel (trammed) to the spindle axis.  This puts the CCW dove tail perpendicular to the axis.  Then you would use the CCW dove tail for all turning, threading, grooving and parting off.  And the CW dove tail for facing, boring and face grooving.  Exception would be if you are using the compound to cut a short taper or need to work right up against the tailstock.


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## Nitmare67

Thank you.  I have alot left to do on it as for now it's just a garage ornament lol.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


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## TLW

Nitmare67 said:


> I have a brand new lathe bed coming that I will he installing hopefully next week. I rebuild the spindle, motor upgrade, Dorian QTTP, rebuild the quick change gearbox and the pan is a 14 gauge stainless steel pan I had custom made
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk



NI,
   You are doing an absolutely beautiful job! Again, everyone thinks its just some cleaning then a coat of paint. I spent 5 hours and 35 miles on 4 trips to the local NAPA store today to try to get the proper fitting gates fractional HP belts. I am taking it in steps. Right now my lathe is up and running (not perfectly but running) I now have the ability to fabricate the needed lower counter shaft and bushings that I need. Once that counter shaft is rebuilt I should be finished with repairs.
   Once all the repairs are done, I plan to pull the entire machine apart clean (again), strip, prime and repaint. The last thing I will need to do is replace all the belts with factory original and level the machine. I really don't see this project being completed till Spring. I just spent $100.00 on filling some LP tanks for temporary heat in my shop and that was for only two weeks of working.
   Keep me posted on your progress....I have to adfmit, as much as I complain about the extra work I have had to do I have enjoyed every minuet spent in my shop.
Tim

EDIT...WOW, that sure is a nice chuck you have. Is it an 8 inch?


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## Mondo

Nitmare67:
You seem to be setting a new standard for refurburshing an under-cabinet drive lathe. It is high time I got started on my 101-28990!

Spiral_Chips


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## kinggt4

Hi TL,

My first (still use it almost every day) lathe is a 12" Atlas but the benchtop model.  The accessories you got with the lathe are worth a bunch.  Nice job cleaning.  Wish I could be more help, but I am reluctant to tear into mine until I get my Heavy 10 restored.

George


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## Nitmare67

TLW said:


> NI,
> You are doing an absolutely beautiful job! Again, everyone thinks its just some cleaning then a coat of paint. I spent 5 hours and 35 miles on 4 trips to the local NAPA store today to try to get the proper fitting gates fractional HP belts. I am taking it in steps. Right now my lathe is up and running (not perfectly but running) I now have the ability to fabricate the needed lower counter shaft and bushings that I need. Once that counter shaft is rebuilt I should be finished with repairs.
> Once all the repairs are done, I plan to pull the entire machine apart clean (again), strip, prime and repaint. The last thing I will need to do is replace all the belts with factory original and level the machine. I really don't see this project being completed till Spring. I just spent $100.00 on filling some LP tanks for temporary heat in my shop and that was for only two weeks of working.
> Keep me posted on your progress....I have to adfmit, as much as I complain about the extra work I have had to do I have enjoyed every minuet spent in my shop.
> Tim
> 
> EDIT...WOW, that sure is a nice chuck you have. Is it an 8 inch?




Ya its an 8" chuck. Its an original Atlas but its in great shape. The lathe was actually given to me by a friend that owns a machine shop. Somebody gave it to him and he never used it. Just sat and rusted. I actually have a BRAND NEW lathe bed on its way from Clausing right now. Clausing is discounting alot of old atlas parts and getting rid of them. I picked up a brand new bed just like mine with the 1/2" ways for 450 dollars. Its new old stock but freshly ground and never used. I'm going to resurface the saddle tomorrow at a friends machine shop to prep it for the new lathe bed. I'm basically wanting to build a better than new Atlas 12x36 lol. Beings i got the lathe for free and ALL of the bearings, VFD, Motors have been free though my work its enabled me to really invest alot more into this lathe than anyone normally would.

Anyways i'm hijacking this thread and thats pretty rude of me. Sorry OP. I'm really excited for you btw your lathe looks great man. I hope its working nicely also.

TLW - in case you're looking for a chuck like this one you can buy one here - http://www.mymachineshop.net/product_p/10119.htm


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## TLW

Here is today's update.. I came up with is a workable plan to rebuild the lower C'Shaft. With a little patience I located a pretty decent casting that also had very good bushings already installed for only $35.00 on e-bay. I ordered an 18" piece of TG&P Stressproof .750 rnd. bar. This will be enough material for 2 new C'Shafts. It will be a matter of cutting and facing them to length then milling the key-ways and I'll end up with 2 new C'Shafts. I can then install the new casting/bushings along with a shaft and have the lathe finished. Then, I can replace the bushings in the original casting, add a new shaft and someone will have an opportunity to have a fully rebuilt C'Shaft assy. for what it cost me in parts. Or if no one will be interested in it I'll keep it as a spare.


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## TLW

14 days later and the "Counter Shaft" issues are behind me! The worn casting, bushings and shaft have been replaced. So, that is everything except the motor replaced (all pulleys, belts, shafts, castings, bushings etc. etc. etc.) in the lower drive train, including the final drive belts. YEAH!
! 
   I actually finished that project about three days after my last post so I decided to turn a few parts that have been on the back burner way to long. While doing these parts I was not happy with the way the lathe was "handling"...kind of sloppy and in-accurate, just not a good feeling....well I did a little more investigating. Here is what I found.....EVERY nut (compound, cross feed and split) was worn beyond usable service. No other option but to order the set ($127.00) and replace them with brand new brass.

    That brings us to this evening. I have now replaced all three nuts and am amazed with the difference they made in the lathes operation. It's a different machine and I'm tickled pink with the results. BUT, as usual, I found yet another issue.....believe it or not the jerk-off I bought the lathe from actually dropped a socket head cap screw into the apron hole so it would look like it was correct...The problem is that the screw is only 1/4" and no-where near the correct size. So, the entire time I thought the lathe was a little "off" it in fact only had one of the two screws holding the apron to the saddle!   BUYER BE WARE! Don't be fooled by some "ass-hat" (in a wheel chair, no less) claiming that his pride and joy had been factory re-built and it has sat for the last ten years. I am not a young man but I have to admit to eating a little humble pie, I have been royally taken.....With all these guys just making a fast buck "flipping" lathes just be careful.

   Tomorrow is another day. I think my next post will include a picture of all the parts I have taken off of this beast and replaced.
    I am making real progress and I will have a very nice addition to my shop when this adventure is over...................more to come!


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