# Starrett center test indicator # 65



## westsailpat (May 24, 2017)

I have never seen one of these . How does it work ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391789471476?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


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## Ed ke6bnl (May 24, 2017)

I have one of those, was given to me,  you move the pivot closer to the point end, which is put in a center point in the part and when you turn the chuck you can align the other end to the tail stock center. The movement at the tail stock is exaggerated by the pivot point location. My understanding may be more to it then that.


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## westsailpat (May 24, 2017)

Umm...... OK Ed thank you for explaining that to me I appreciate it . So it's basically a tool to align the tail stock to the work piece center ? I might bid on it just because .


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## chips&more (May 24, 2017)

More like it aligns the part in the chuck to a specific center point mark that is on the part. The tail stock has really nothing to do with it but maybe help alignment.


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## woodchucker (May 24, 2017)

I have the brown and sharpe unit.  Like chips and more says.
Especially useful for a 4 jaw. if you center punch the item or have a previously marked center it works well.
lets say you have a center finding combo square.take multiple centers etch and Tap a small dimple, put the end of the indicator in the dimple and rotate the chuck... adjust the piece until it is dead steady. It doesn't have to line up with anything, just stop moving. Very quick. Very useful if you can't easily indicate the edge because there is not enough stick out. Lets say you had to relieve the inner section of a thing round plate.


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## mikey (May 24, 2017)

The tool in the listing is incomplete; there is an extension that screws into the rod that is there.

As woodchucker says, this is a tool for centering work in a 4 jaw chuck that may be difficult to center. A square or rectangular work piece comes to mind. You cannot indicate off the surface of the work so you use a tool like this one. A center punch marks your desired center on the work. The pointed tip of the long rod is extended about an inch or so and locked into the gimbal before being placed into the punch mark. Then you rotate the chuck by hand and watch the other end of the long rod; it will swing in a large circle initially but as you adjust the jaws on the chuck the circle gets smaller until you get the part centered. At that point, the end of the rod is barely moving, if at all. This is why the extension for the rod is important; the longer the rod, the more accurately you can center the work.

There are other ways to do this nowadays but back when this tool was made it was a pretty useful idea. That part that holds the rod is a gimbal that can rotate 360 degrees in all directions and the tool is very nicely made. I have a complete tool and while it is rarely used, it is a beautiful example of an old Starrett tool.

Edit: I know Brown & Sharpe also made one and I think Lufkin did, too. I forgot to add that the big rectangle thing goes in the tool holder; obvious but I wanted to be complete.


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## westsailpat (May 24, 2017)

Well OK guys I thmink I got it . Any idea when this tool was first produced ?


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## mikey (May 24, 2017)

Not sure - early 19th century, I think. I saw a post on another forum that said it was in the Starrett catalog in 1927.


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## Bob Korves (May 24, 2017)

I had a like new Brown & Sharpe one that I horse traded to Keith Rucker at VintageMachinery.org.  He was really happy to have it, I had no use for it.  Like Mikey says, it is missing the pointed tip.  There were multiple rods and tips for them, including bent ones, like a double ended scriber.  Keith demonstrated it in one of his videos.  I think they call it a centering indicator.


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## mikey (May 24, 2017)

I have used that centering indicator to center rectangular parts and it is rather useful. Another way to do it is to make a centering device made in your shop. I have one but can't find the thing! It is basically a two piece affair. The first piece has one end pointed to 60 degrees and the other end has a shoulder. The second piece is bored to two inside diameters; one to pass the pointed end and the second diameter is slightly larger to accommodate the shoulder. A spring sits behind the shoulder of the first part and a cap threads on to contain the spring. Its sort of like a tap follower for your tailstock chuck.

In use, you chuck the tool in your tailstock drill and bring the point of the tool into contact with the center punched mark on the work. You get the work centered roughly by eye, then use a dial indicator on the side of the tool and dial it in. It works quite well and is faster than the Starrett tool but you do have to admire the beautiful colors of the case hardened Starrett tool!


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## Holescreek (May 25, 2017)

I picked up a similar but different tool at the flea market 2 weeks ago.   Similar in that it does the same thing (used for adjusting a center punched part into center of a 4 jaw chuck), different in the way it works.  With this one you put the point in the center punch indent and the opposite end on the tailstock center then use an indicator on the ball to center it up.  The spring action on the shaft keeps the pressure steady during adjustment.


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## mckay3d (Oct 23, 2022)

westsailpat said:


> I have never seen one of these . How does it work ?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/391789471476?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


Here is a PDF with some info.


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