# My Logan 12x24 lathe project



## Rennkafer

I picked up a Logan 12 x 24 lathe in January just before I left for a 3 month work assignment in Japan.  Had just enough time to clean the main machine ways and go over it to see what it needed before I left and ordered parts while I as gone.  Found it on Craigslist, they guy had bought it intending to teach himself machine work, replaced the 440 3 phase motor with a 220 single phase (2hp), then never hooked it up.  Sat for 8 years in his wood shop that way.

This is where I found it...









A bit of cleaning got it to here, which is where I left it while I was gone...





The last couple days I disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled the taper attachment...

Before:













After:













Tonight I started on the saddle/crosslide...

















- - - Updated - - -

Oh, and the day I got back from Japan I picked this up... because I need more projects :rofl:









This will be another thread though...


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## 110octane

Nice find.  Very light tailstock for a 12".  Looks almost like a second operation lathe (or they had turret in mind).  Logan is a good lathe.  The headstocks are well designed.
Enjoy! Geoff


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## Rennkafer

They did offer a couple other tailstocks for that particular machine Geoff, including a turret.  This one is a little light duty but I mostly turn aluminum so it won't get worked very hard most of the time.


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## Rennkafer

Finished cleaning up the saddle and cross slide today and got them installed back on the ways with new wipers and the taper attachment.













Next up... the compound.  Pretty grungy like the rest of this thing, but in basically decent shape.


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## 110octane

Rennkafer said:


> They did offer a couple other tailstocks for that particular machine Geoff, including a turret.  This one is a little light duty but I mostly turn aluminum so it won't get worked very hard most of the time.



A very nice machine!  Geoff


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## robert1352

I wish we could see some more of this restoration,I would like to know how it turned out.


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## Rennkafer

It's currently in progress, Robert and the pics are up to date with what I've finished...  I'll keep posting pics as I get more accomplished.


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## Old Iron

Nice job your doing on the lathe, The bridgeport looks like a real project.

Paul


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## Rennkafer

Thanks Paul, the lathe is coming along nicely.  The mill... the column/knee are in decent shape as is the top of the head.  The quill assembly needs a complete rebuild though, as some hack had a go at it before I got it.  They weren't bright enough to pull the set screw on the bottom of the quill and took most of the threads off of the end cap (quill is fine, fortunately) and they'd replaced the bearings with regular ball bearings, not the correct angular contact bearings.  I'll be making a large parts order on that machine, but I'll have a completely rebuilt head.


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## Rennkafer

More progress... compound disassembled, cleaned, reassembled and installed.  Tool post cleaned and installed.  Apron disassembled, and cleaning started.


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## Rennkafer

Well now I really screwed up...

Thought I'd do a little paint touch up after reading some other threads on here, didn't like the results so I've torn everything back down again and started painting. I was really trying to avoid that, as I don't want a museum piece that I'm afraid to get a chip on.  I compromised on it though, no stripping, just some scuff/sand to deal with the bigger chips and give the old paint some tooth then new over it.

Some results...













Saddle is off now and in process along with all of the back/side covers on the head.  Pics to follow.


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## 110octane

Looking good!  I like the looks of the taper attachment.


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## Old Iron

I was wondering if you were going to paint it, It is looking a lot better now.

Paul


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## stevecmo

Looks like you'll have a really nice machine when it's all done.  Nice job!


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## Buickgsman

Thats some nice machinery you got there!  I like that style taper attachment.  It appears to be like the Heavy 10 taper attachment in that you can just tighten it up and start cutting a taper without having to mess with disconnecting the cross slide screw.  Very nice!
Bob


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## Rennkafer

Apron gearbox is all back together...  fresh paint, replaced a couple fasteners that were obviously not original.

Before (ya I know it's upside down, makes it like the after though)


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## woodtickgreg

A little paint does wonders! Good job, looks a lot better with a little paint.


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## Rennkafer

Thanks for all the good words guys, it's gratifying to see others appreciate what you've done.

Now for my next trick... the disassembly/clean/paint of the quick change box.  As you can see in the photos, the wood dust in this thing is just pervasive, which isn't really surprising given it was in the PO's wood shop for 8 years (sitting in the corner not running).  I found a couple things wrong that I'll have to fix, the shaft the handles run on is somewhat buggered up, and one of the 22 tooth gears in the handles is missing its cast in "key" that runs in the shaft.  Priced the parts already from Logan... not cheap but at least I can still get them unlike some of the other older lathes.  I'm trying to decide how to paint the front at the moment, the grooves leading up to where the handles lock in obviously take some abuse so I may polish those areas up a little and leave them bare.

Pics...


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## 110octane

Not a great deal of wear.  For my two cents of suggestion (please feel free to ignore as you deem fit) - I like your idea of polishing the groove tracks for the levers.  I removed my threading chart by gently hitting the drive brads with a flat round punch.  I tapped the casting for small (#5?) screws and replaced the drive brads with small brass screws.  I locktited those just for safety,\.
Geoff


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## woodtickgreg

The gearbox looks pretty good, I've seen far worse, mine was dirtier. The fact that you can get new parts for your machine is pretty cool, saves a lot of time. If I was going to tear the gear box down I might just go ahead and replace the bushings while I was in there, especially if I could just order them up. I am enjoying watching what you are doing to this lathe.


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## Rennkafer

Ya, the gearbox isn't in terrible shape (and I've also seen dirtier taking apart stuff at work).  The shaft the handles run on has some dinks in it that look to have been caused by lathe crashes stopping the shaft.  This lathe has a "safety gear" on the input that keeps things from breaking but apparently doesn't entirely prevent damage.  The lathe, having been a school machine, probably got more than its fair share of that sort of abuse being used by beginners.  New parts from Logan can be a bit on the spendy side, but it's much preferable to not being able to get them at all.  To give you an idea, just the new bushings for the gearbox are ~$100, the shaft and 22T gear are another ~$130.  I think it will make the lathe operation enough smoother to make that worthwhile though, as the quick change box gets a pretty fair amount of use.

Geoff, I like your idea of removing the data plate, though not sure I will on this piece as it's a pretty easy one to mask.  My mill project though, I'll be doing a lot of that as the scales are pretty beat up.  Did you just give the brads a couple whacks with the punch them pull them with pliers or something?


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## 110octane

Rennkafer said:


> Ya, the gearbox isn't in terrible shape (and I've also seen dirtier taking apart stuff at work).  The shaft the handles run on has some dinks in it that look to have been caused by lathe crashes stopping the shaft.  This lathe has a "safety gear" on the input that keeps things from breaking but apparently doesn't entirely prevent damage.  The lathe, having been a school machine, probably got more than its fair share of that sort of abuse being used by beginners.  New parts from Logan can be a bit on the spendy side, but it's much preferable to not being able to get them at all.  To give you an idea, just the new bushings for the gearbox are ~$100, the shaft and 22T gear are another ~$130.  I think it will make the lathe operation enough smoother to make that worthwhile though, as the quick change box gets a pretty fair amount of use.
> 
> Geoff, I like your idea of removing the data plate, though not sure I will on this piece as it's a pretty easy one to mask.  My mill project though, I'll be doing a lot of that as the scales are pretty beat up.  Did you just give the brads a couple whacks with the punch them pull them with pliers or something?



Yes, after I put some masking tape over the printed "panel", I just went around the brad head with the punch about every 45 degrees and just kept tapping.  The head rose up just a little and they get loose when this happens and the brad may be prised (pry) up with a screwdriver or pulled with pliers or end nippers.  It just takes a little patience. One thing, simple bushings are easy to replicate on the lathe (or a spare lathe) and if you are lucky enough to score an involute cutter of the right number, you can use the old gear as an indexing tool to cut a new gear; spur gears are the easiest to cut.  Nice lathe, good luck  Geoff Morgan


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## Rennkafer

110octane said:


> Yes, after I put some masking tape over the printed "panel", I just went around the brad head with the punch about every 45 degrees and just kept tapping.  The head rose up just a little and they get loose when this happens and the brad may be prised (pry) up with a screwdriver or pulled with pliers or end nippers.  It just takes a little patience. One thing, simple bushings are easy to replicate on the lathe (or a spare lathe) and if you are lucky enough to score an involute cutter of the right number, you can use the old gear as an indexing tool to cut a new gear; spur gears are the easiest to cut.  Nice lathe, good luck  Geoff Morgan



Ah ok Geoff, that's sort of what I thought you meant, thanks for clarifying.  If I had access to another lathe/mill I could make most every part I need, unfortunately I don't (can't use anything at work, Fed. Gov't gets pissy about that).  My apprenticeship was served rebuilding plant equipment (lathes, mills, etc), so I did quite a lot of this sort of repair work.  We never painted anything though, it just had to make accurate parts.  After I quit doing that and went into car restorations I got pretty good at painting pieces, this is my first foray into combining the two.

Thanks again!


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## 110octane

Well we know you don't work for the IRS!  Of course, the term "government work" is reserved for the General (and his/her adjunct)!  I wish I could paint better than I can.  At my advancing age it's a bit like my welding somedays I can lay a respectable bead and other days it's tough to strike an arc.  In my younger days I passed the ASME Section IX a couple of times, the secret there was my age, training, and good equipment with the correct settings.  Using a buzz box or a cheap MIG machine requires more skill....

I have a variety of spray guns that I have collected.  I've got a Binks custom special made for Mr. Binks himself (the surprise on the Binks parts guy voice when I called for a parts list was priceless - the gun was given to me as part of an old body shop that went out of business and scrapped a bunch of stuff - I had the broken handle TIG welded by an expert colleague {private industry can be a little more forgiving in some cases}.  This gun gives a very nice pattern and control but wow does it eat paint.  I have a big time DeVilbiss that can be configured for a remote paint tank and can throw more paint than heaving a five gallon bucket.  Lately my favorite gun is a Harbor Freight (?!) HVLP hand gun.  It uses compressed air as opposed to the fan style, so I don't think it is HVLP in the strictest sense.  It is economical on paint and has reasonable amount of control and a decent pattern.  I usually use a urethane hardener and some serious breathing protection.

Painting machinery is much more forgiving than spraying an auto, motorcycle, etc.  I like the Detzler (may be PPG, just not Sherwin-Williams) brand of "Shop Line" acrylic enamels.  They can be shot with or without hardener and offer a lower cost than the higher priced auto stuff.  I have not tried the newer "clear coat" base coat automotive products.  As I understand it the base coat does not have a great deal of sheen and when you spray the clear coat you can see the gloss develop.  I think I might leave that to the professionals.

Obviously, since you have refurbished a variety of machines and machine tools, you are no neophyte as to the process!  The Logan should prove to be an excellent machine.  Geoff Morgan


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## stonehands

Rennkafer said:


> Ya, the gearbox isn't in terrible shape (and I've also seen dirtier taking apart stuff at work).  The shaft the handles run on has some dinks in it that look to have been caused by lathe crashes stopping the shaft.  This lathe has a "safety gear" on the input that keeps things from breaking but apparently doesn't entirely prevent damage.  The lathe, having been a school machine, probably got more than its fair share of that sort of abuse being used by beginners.  New parts from Logan can be a bit on the spendy side, but it's much preferable to not being able to get them at all.  To give you an idea, just the new bushings for the gearbox are ~$100, the shaft and 22T gear are another ~$130.  I think it will make the lathe operation enough smoother to make that worthwhile though, as the quick change box gets a pretty fair amount of use.
> 
> Geoff, I like your idea of removing the data plate, though not sure I will on this piece as it's a pretty easy one to mask.  My mill project though, I'll be doing a lot of that as the scales are pretty beat up.  Did you just give the brads a couple whacks with the punch them pull them with pliers or something?



Rennkafer, Great job on the re-finish, I just finished a 10" Atlas in time to sell it to a friend in order to buy a Heavy 10 that I have to do the same restoration on. It must be a middle aged, male only sickness. Like you, I thought the price of the Logan parts bordered on the spendy, I might be able to help a bit. I just went thru a 70's stash of Logan gears from a school system and there was a wire loop with 4- 22T gears with a raised key. Let me know if you havn't ordered yet. These appear to be NOS or at the least in mint condition-after 30yrs in a box it's sometimes hard to tell. Let me know.--David


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## Rennkafer

Haven't ordered anything yet, David...  I'll get a picture of the gear in question and we can compare to what you have.  Thanks!


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## Rennkafer

Finally had a chance to go out and clean up the good (relatively) 22 tooth gear from the QC box.  If this is what you have David, I'd be interested, please PM me with what you're looking to get for one or two of the bunch you have.  The other thing I haven't been able to locate so far is the "Logan" script plate that should be on the front of the headstock.  If anyone has one (or knows where one may be other than Logan) please let me know.

Here's the gear pic with dimensions...





This is the plate I'm looking for, the large "Logan" on the front of the headstock...


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## Rennkafer

Got the new gears for the QC box from David yesterday and they look great, thanks so much!  Now I'm just waiting for the shaft and some other bits to get here from Logan (well that and getting around to finishing repainting the QC box casting... been busy on another project).


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## OldSkull

This is mine  And I got some spare gears....The metric combo (100/127) and the big face plate are for a Powermatic 14" Logan....I gone try to sell them to get the one for my 12" ASAP


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## OldSkull

Got problem posting my reply....Anyway ...I'm happy to found a thread about a 12" Logan , I install a 1.5 3 phases motor in mine and use a VFD to control it....A bit overkill since we already got a mechanical speed control... I may convert again and use a 110/230 V single phase Baldor motor, I install a BXA phase II tools post on mine (Got it with a 30% rebate from Enco) Again ...It's a bit overkill but the price was to good to let go...^_^ I enjoy your restoration thread, I almost pay $1000 for mine 2 years ago.


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## woodtickgreg

Oldskull, nice looking lathe, thanks for sharing with us.


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## OldSkull

Tank you sir! I didn't want to hijack the OP thread , just show him he is not alone to own a little Logan. I see you got a Burke mill, I see one for sale at a close action here on my side of the fence...Powermatic MVN Millrite (1974) I don't know the value of those, they are rare and she look clean...I post pictures and info in Milling section ASAP.


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## Rennkafer

No worries on the hijacking, I like to see other peoples machinery too.  Your 2525 seems to be a somewhat older equivalent of my 2555  from looking at the Logan website.  Any idea what year it was built?  I'm also envious you have your big "Logan" plate on the front of the headstock, hopefully I'll find one eventually.

I got some more painting done last night (free hand painting the letters on the back belt cover) and did a bunch more cleaning on lathe bed and headstock.  Should be able to get that painted soon (maybe tomorrow as I have the day off).  I'm still waiting on the new change lever shaft and oilite bushings for the QC box from Logan, so I haven't done more cleaning on that.  I'll post up some pics of the back cover when I get a chance.


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## woodtickgreg

OldSkull said:


> Tank you sir! I didn't want to hijack the OP thread , just show him he is not alone to own a little Logan. I see you got a Burke mill, I see one for sale at a close action here on my side of the fence...Powermatic MVN Millrite (1974) I don't know the value of those, they are rare and she look clean...I post pictures and info in Milling section ASAP.


I almost closed a deal on one of those millrites, they are closer to a bridgeport but a little smaller and not quite as powerful, larger table too. My little burke will serve me well for what I want to do with it and in the space I have. A millright would have to stay in my unheated garage as I don't think I could get it in the basement due to the weight, even if I took it apart, and it is much larger than my burke and it might not fit in the space the burke is in. I even passed on a loaded rong fu mill to get the burke for the same money, I like a knee mill.
OOPS! Thread jack..............just a little conversation while we are waiting for pics. LOL


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## OldSkull

Only difference between a 2525V and a 2555V it's the 3 drawer on mine, that's why she's 30 pounds heavier! If I remember well the serial number date my lathe to 1967 or 1969..... This never bother me since the bed look as good has new. I seen a OEM plate for sale on Ebay last year, you may get lucky and found one again.

The only problem with the Millrite is tilting the head! It's a Payne in the a...But some fit a Bridgeport head, not sure if it's a "M" or a "J" with 2 hp motor.

Here a pic of the Millrite She's just 6 feet's high  UPDATE THIS MILLING IS MINE NOW ! :thumbsup:


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## Rennkafer

OldSkull said:


> Only difference between a 2525V and a 2555V it's the 3 drawer on mine, that's why she's 30 pounds heavier! If I remember well the serial number date my lathe to 1967 or 1969..... This never bother me since the bed look as good has new. I seen a OEM plate for sale on Ebay last year, you may get lucky and found one again.



Ah ok, didn't know that was the difference, the Logan site doesn't mention it beyond saying "cabinet" on yours and "pedestal" on mine.  The only difference I can see between them is mine has three shelves with a door and yours has 3 drawers.  Other than that the cabinet is the same, not really sure how that would make the 35lbs of difference between them (though those weights are shipping, not actual lathe weights, so it could be how they were packed).  If yours is a late '60s it's actually newer than mine, which was built in '61 (same year as I was), what's your serial number?


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## Rennkafer

As promised, more pics...

I took the day off today and did the final cleaning on the lathe bed/beadstock, then scuffed it up and cleaned it with wax/grease remover.  I got most of a first coat on it before I ran out of paint (great pre-planning Bill), went over to Lowes and picked up more paint and some rollers to finish off the first coat.  Now I just have to put a couple more coats on the upper then clean/scuff/mask the lower cabinet so it can be painted and disassemble/clean/paint the tailstock.  Tailstock has already been apart and cleaned once already though so it's just a matter of getting the fresh oil back off of it and scuffing before paint.  I may do a little detail painting on some of the handles as well... we'll see how ambitious I am.  This isn't "restoration" quality work by any means (since I'm not stripping anything or really going gung ho on chip removal), but it still looks a lot better than before.

Todays progress...

Belt covers were already done but I hadn't posted pics... I freehand painted the overlay on the "Logan" letters.  They were green when I got it so that's what they got repainted.





Back and front pics of the bed/headstock with one coat on it.  I had the thought that I might do the top headstock cover with automotive undercoat or PlastiDip as I tend to lay tools on it and that will have a little grip and not chip instantly.


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## OldSkull

Looking good! :thumbsup:

I check back the serial number on mine, number is 82458 fabricate in 1966 but purchase in 1967 by the Transport Safety Board of Canada (Air division) I register my lathe on the Yahoo Logan group list today )  This lathe is 6 year younger then me!

PS: the drawers got 5 metal surfaces instead of one for shelves and trust me they are "Solid state heavy duty" one. To get quality like that today you have to take a second mortgage....


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## Rennkafer

OldSkull said:


> Looking good! :thumbsup:
> 
> I check back the serial number on mine, number is 82458 fabricate in 1966 but purchase in 1967 by the Transport Safety Board of Canada (Air division) I register my lathe on the Yahoo Logan group list today )  This lathe is 6 year younger then me!
> 
> PS: the drawers got 5 metal surfaces instead of one for shelves and trust me they are "Solid state heavy duty" one. To get quality like that today you have to take a second mortgage....




Thank you!... it will be nice enough to look good from 5' but not so good I'll be afraid to use it.  

You're right, I imagine those drawers are super heavy considering how heavy duty the cabinet itself is.  

Didn't get anything done today so far on it, had to fix the daily driver whose ignition switch gave up yesterday and it's ~90 degrees out here today (32 for you folk up in Canada).


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## OldSkull

Well I'm a few hundred miles from you and from were I stand she look perfect :lmao:

26c here today and I work in my garage all day moving stuff and prepare my trailer for the 2hr trip from my home to Gatineau and another 2hr back home but this time with a 1400lbs load I wish to get to destination in one piece.....I even bring a tarp I don't trust weather channel :nuts:


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## Rennkafer

Now for something completely different... 

No, not a man with three buttocks.  (with respect to Monty Python)

I decided I'd try something I hadn't seen done with the top cover on the lathe.  I have a tendency to put tools (chuck key, wrenches, etc) on the top of the lathe so they're right at hand.  After going to the trouble to paint this thing I didn't want it to immediately get all chipped, so I started thinking about how I could keep that from happening.

Plastidip to the rescue!  I'd been meaning to try this on something and it seemed to fit the bill.  Nice tactile rubber surface so tools won't chip, easy to clean, and even a little sound deadening.  Not sure if I had an original idea or not but this is the first time I've seen this done.  Also painted the back gear and feed reverse levers and the lockup handwheel on the end of the spindle.  In the top pic the end cover isn't on tight hence the gray line.  I may put a little satin black on the faces so there can't be a line when it's assembled.









I've also gotten more done on the QC box.  My parts (finally) got here from Logan, I stripped and started painting the QC casting, and did a first pass through cleaning the gearsets and such.

Casting after a couple coats...





parts semi-clean...







Hopefully I can get this back together before my folks show up for a visit in a couple weeks... I want them to see the before pic then the real thing the way it looks assembled.  Not sure if I have enough time anic:


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## stevecmo

Looking good!  

It'll be interesting to see how that PlastiDip holds up.  How did you apply it?

Steve


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## Rennkafer

stevecmo said:


> Looking good!
> 
> It'll be interesting to see how that PlastiDip holds up.  How did you apply it?
> 
> Steve



Me too Steve, I hadn't played with it before.  It was an aerosol can that I bought.


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## Rennkafer

Made some more progress today...  cleaned the undersides of the ways and put the rack back in place.  Put all the belt covers back on, put the saddle/cross slide/tape attachment back on.  The back cover was originally held on with nice thumbscrews, which of course are long gone.  When I got the lathe the cover was held on with a motley collection of bolts and nuts.  I went down to the local hardware store hoping to find thumbscrews but was only able to find the plastic covers that you put on an allen bolt so bought enough to put the cover on for now.  Later when it's running I'll make some proper ones.

More pics...













Now to finish up the quickchange box so I can reinstall it, finish cleaning/painting the lower cabinet and tailstock, then wire it up.


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## woodtickgreg

Man she's looking really good! Excellent work sir. I am really enjoying watching this one come together. We appreciate you taking the time to post pics.


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## 110octane

woodtickgreg said:


> Man she's looking really good! Excellent work sir. I am really enjoying watching this one come together. We appreciate you taking the time to post pics.



I agree!  These lathes seem to be somewhat rare.  There are all sorts of Logan 9 and 10 inch around these parts (B'ham, AL) but I have not seen any of the larger Logans.  There are a lot of South Bend 14 and up if you can pry them from the owners hands.  My experience with my Logan 10 inch has been excellent, I think it performs as well as a South Bend 10 heavy, just a little different in the design.

Looking great and my thanks, too, for the posts.  G Morgan


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## Rennkafer

Thanks guys, it's been a lot of work but it will be worth it.  Glad you're liking the pics, I try to document what I do... kind of a habit from doing auto restorations.  The more pics you take the less time you spend putting things back together 6 months later.  Next up after this... my Bridgeport clone (which needs wayyyyy more work than the lathe did).


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## OldSkull

WOW! You almost convince me to paint mine! Lucky the original finish still look good enough after a good cleaning.

For those interested This Logan 12" use the same bed as the 11" or 10" Logan, Only the headstock made them a totally different "animal", but the version wearing Powermatic green color is the best of the bunch...


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## Rennkafer

One of the things that had me a bit worried on this lathe was the fact that the crossfeed dial is super hard to read.  I've used a solid paint stick to renovate dials at work a bunch of times in the past with great success, but it wasn't working in this case due to the lack of depth of the lines on the dial (same thing that makes them really hard to read).  A new dial from Logan is about $150 and given the the line depth looks like it was that way from new there's no saying a new dial would fix the issue. 

I've run machines without a DRO in the past, but my formal training (4 year apprenticeship) and professional experience was all in an industrial environment where everything has a DRO.  That said, I just couldn't justify spending over 50% of what the lathe cost on even the cheapest Chinese DRO setups (~$450).  So while trying to decide what to do I ran across this... http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/15763-DRO-s-Available .  While they're sort of a pain due to them shutting off automatically, having batteries, and having to deal with multiple displays I figured they were better than nothing.

Then I found this thread...  http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/16601-Input-needed-on-my-wireless-DRO-project ... I downloaded the app to the Nook HD+ tablet I already own and played with it a bit.  Super easy to read, completely flexible from a feature standpoint (Yuriy is currently adding hole layout/setup and RPM functions as a for instance) and I'm never locked into where the display is at, as long as it's in range of the Bluetooth.  If it's in the way I just move it... if a new feature comes out I just update the software (and maybe hardware in the case of RPM).  

I've now ordered enough scales to do both the lathe and the mill, and the parts to build the boxes (Launchpad based for mine).  Total cost with scales is under $250 for both machines, would be about $400 if I bought another tablet to have one dedicated to just using for the DRO.  So I'll have a 2-axis DRO on the lathe, and a 3-axis on the mill for less than the price of one of the cheapest dedicated DRO's.  It also fixes the auto-shutoff, battery, and multiple display unit issues that bothered me about the base iGaging scales.

This is why I love these forums... people sharing their ideas to everyones benefit.


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## truckin23

Very nice job you do awesome work . While you were gone the state sent your new license plate enjoy .

Bob


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## Rennkafer

Was a busy weekend with my folks coming over on Saturday but I did get the lower cabinet of the lathe cleaned, masked, and the first coat of paint on.


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## woodtickgreg

She's shaping up nice, looking very nice.


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## Rennkafer

So I finally got back to the lathe after a busy couple weeks.  Saturday I managed to replace the bushings in the QC box despite the fact that I managed to not order a couple bushings I needed.  I went hunting and found bushings the right size at the local hardware store but for the fact they were flanged.  Took them over to a friends house and turned the flanges off and viola!  Finished disassembling the QC levers, cleaned and painted them.  Cleaned the "safety clutch", it's shaft, and associated gearing.  Cleaned the shaft for the output gearing but put the gears in my cold parts cleaner to see if it will break some of the hardened grease loose so I don't spend hours picking it off by hand like I did with the other gearing.  Managed to reassemble the QC levers tonight and assemble them to the shaft/QC box casting.

Pics...

Safety clutch and output shaft, compare to the pics above.





QC levers and internal bits... I had to hand file the keys in the new gears so they would fit the new shaft.





The QC box with the levers installed...


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## stevecmo

Bill,

That thing is really coming along and really looking great!  Very nice work!

Steve


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## richl

That is a beautiful lathe, you really did a wonderful job with her! I just purchased a little Rockwell 11x24 last week, I have been researching disassemble and reassembly, a bit daunting I have to admit :thinking:, than the missing pieces and belts... but it is refreshing to see yours and watch your progress thru the rebuild.

Thanks for the thread and encouragement!

Rich


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## ezduzit

My "new" 2557V looks very similar to yours. Where is the serial # found? The motor in mine had been changed to a 110/220v  1-phase.


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## 110octane

Most Logan serial numbers are stamped into the bed at the far tailstock end.  You may have to use a power wire brush to reveal it.  The number is on the shear closest to the operator (apron side) and is the the "flat" rail between the outside and the V way.  There may be other locations, this is the location I found on three separate Logan lathes (two different models).
Geoff Morgan


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## ezduzit

OldSkull said:


> Looking good! :thumbsup:
> 
> I check back the serial number on mine, number is 82458 fabricate in 1966 but purchase in 1967 by the Transport Safety Board of Canada (Air division) I register my lathe on the Yahoo Logan group list today )  This lathe is 6 year younger then me!
> 
> PS: the drawers got 5 metal surfaces instead of one for shelves and trust me they are "Solid state heavy duty" one. To get quality like that today you have to take a second mortgage....





110octane said:


> Most Logan serial numbers are stamped into the bed at the far tailstock end.  You may have to use a power wire brush to reveal it.  The number is on the shear closest to the operator (apron side) and is the the "flat" rail between the outside and the V way.  There may be other locations, this is the location I found on three separate Logan lathes (two different models).
> Geoff Morgan



110--I was ready to swear there was no serial # there but the wire brush revealed it. Thanks.

Skull--Mine is a 12"x35"; serial# 67871. How can I tell the year of manufacture?

My covers are also very plain when compared to yours--no logos or embellishments.

Edit: Found the serial # list
http://www.lathe.com/ser-no.htm

Wow! 1955!


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## OldSkull

*ezduzit f*or a 1955 your bed look in pretty good shape and having the 35" bed make her a great pick! Keep the 110/220V motor if he run well, better put the money on cutting tools, I convert mine on 230V 3 phases with a VFD since she was powered with 600V 3 phases wen I bough it. Same thing for my Milrite milling (575V)

The milling on your trailer is yours to? I like it but I can figure out what it was....Rear belt drive unit, I have seen this before, what is it?


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## ezduzit

Yeah, the mill and lathe were a package deal--2 orphans. The lathe came with a couple coffee cans full of cutting bits, mostly carbide. The mill is an Index Super 55. Company's still in business (Wells Index). There are some good photos of one about 1/2-way down this page:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/index/


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## Chemech

I'm planning on removing the chart and replacing the brass rivets with small screws as well on the old 2557-V which I just acquired - the chart is damaged - torn - by the movement of the QC levers, which makes me think that a prior owner messed with the formerly nice brass plate, and possibly remounted it in a too low position...

I'm not sure how that will play out as part of my restoration - which looks to be more complex that what the OP has been undertaking here...




110octane said:


> Not a great deal of wear.  For my two cents of suggestion (please feel free to ignore as you deem fit) - I like your idea of polishing the groove tracks for the levers.  I removed my threading chart by gently hitting the drive brads with a flat round punch.  I tapped the casting for small (#5?) screws and replaced the drive brads with small brass screws.  I locktited those just for safety,\.
> Geoff


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## Chemech

Your machine is looking quite a bit less abused than mine...   S/N 67026, looks like about 1954 or so...     
	

		
			
		

		
	







ezduzit said:


> 110--I was ready to swear there was no serial # there but the wire brush revealed it. Thanks.
> 
> Skull--Mine is a 12"x35"; serial# 67871. How can I tell the year of manufacture?
> 
> My covers are also very plain when compared to yours--no logos or embellishments.
> 
> Edit: Found the serial # list
> http://www.lathe.com/ser-no.htm
> 
> Wow! 1955!


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## Chuck K

Chemech said:


> Your machine is looking quite a bit less abused than mine...   S/N 67026, looks like about 1954 or so...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 58727



Serial # 67871 would put it somewhere in 1955.  You can find the list here:

http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/gro...Rows&tbl=1&sortBy=1&sortDir=down&start_at=420

That's a link to the data base at the Logan user group.  It's moderated by Scott Logan.  You may have to join the group to view the page...

Chuck


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## ezduzit

Here is Logan's s/n list:
http://www.lathe.com/ser-no.htm


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## Rennkafer

Got more done over the weekend...

Finished cleaning the QC box bits and assembled it.  That wasn't without issues as the new bushings I pressed into the gears ended up slightly undersize.  I didn't unfortunately have the right size reamer but a friend did so I got that taken care of and the box assembled.  I got the QC box assembled onto the lathe with the lead screw.  While the belt covers were off (to install the QC box) I put some flat black on the inside upper edge of the covers so the gray line went away where the back cover meets the upper cover.  Took the tailstock apart, cleaned up the chips, masked and got the first coat on it and the tailstock handle.  The tailstock lock isn't the original, it was just a piece of bar stock welded to a bolt which looked pretty crappy (though it worked fine).  I recontoured it a bit and got it painted as well.  I also stripped the speed control handle, I think it must have had about 8 coats of paint on it.

Good thing this is almost finished as I bought a head for my mill project.

Pics of this weekends progress...


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## ezduzit

This is what the handles looked like in 1955.


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## Redlineman

ezduzit said:


> This is what the handles looked like in 1955.


It looked that way in 1942 as well. :tiphat:


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## Rennkafer

> _Originally Posted by *ezduzit*_
> 
> _This is what the handles looked like in 1955._




It looked that way in 1942 as well. :tiphat:


And in 1961 when mine was built.  :thumbsup:

Mine was broken at some point and one of the PO's made one on the cheap.  Since it's fully functional I just cleaned it up a bit (after I checked on the price for a new one from Logan).  I'll keep an eye on Ebay for an OEM one in decent condition.


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## ezduzit

Nice rack (handles)! :thumbzup:

One huge difference, shown in the posted photos, is in the left end gear-train cover. The one on mine is 1-piece and is just a cover; the later ones use a 2-piece bolted cover. Looks like they wanted to stiffen the gear case? Was that a big improvement to correct a shortcoming in the early ones?


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## Rennkafer

The belt cover on mine is actually three pieces, with front, back, and end pieces.  I suspect it was just easier to cast three flatter pieces than the one deep piece like yours that made them change.

- - - Updated - - -

So since the lathe is almost together... anyone have a clue how to wire up the stock Logan forward/reverse switch for a 220V 1 Phase motor?  I have the factory book and the diagram in it isn't particularly clear.


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## Rennkafer

Annnnnnnd it's all together (mechanically)...

Still need to wire it up as I posted above (anyone wire up the stock Logan Fwd/Off/Rev switch to a 220 single phase motor?) and then it's time to start tossing chips around!

Next I'll be building my DRO controller(s) and mounting the scales for the Android DRO.

A pic of it all together and painted...


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## woodtickgreg

Wow, looks amazing! Great job and fast too. Kinda sad to see it come to an end, it's been a fun project to watch, followed it all the way.


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## ezduzit

woodtickgreg said:


> Wow, looks amazing! Great job and fast too...



Word.


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## 110octane

woodtickgreg said:


> Wow, looks amazing! Great job and fast too. Kinda sad to see it come to an end, it's been a fun project to watch, followed it all the way.



Ditto!


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## Rennkafer

Fast?  I thought it was dragging along... but thanks to all of you guys.

There will be a few more updates as I get the DRO up and running and I'm planning to build a little "shed" around it so it doesn't throw chips all over the garage.  

You can also check out my next project here... http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/15533-Rutlands-Long-Chang-LC-1-project , this one will probably take a little longer.


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## OldSkull

Rennkafer said:


> So since the lathe is almost together... anyone have a clue how to wire up the stock Logan forward/reverse switch for a 220V 1 Phase motor?  I have the factory book and the diagram in it isn't particularly clear.


*
Sorry for the late answer...Since a picture have the value of thousand words....Check this up:*



*
The terminal box is on the motor, top of diagram is the selector side,  maybe Ezduzit can came back with a picture of the switch with indication since his lathe got a 220V single phase motor like yours.*


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## ezduzit

The switch had been changed out to a different type on my lathe, along with the motor. It shows up in this photo. And it needs to be relocated or a guard installed to prevent accidental actuation.


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## 110octane

Looks like a "standard" Dayton drum switch, or an equivalent competitor model.  Looks like it has an nomenclature plate on the switch.  If you can quote the information someone will have a wiring schematic.  There are lots of circuit wiring diagrams and other data for these switches available on line.
Good Luck, Geoff Morgan


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## Rennkafer

Thanks guys for attempting to get me going on the wiring.  I have the factory manual with the switch wiring, problem is I just don't know what's what.  I'm hooking this to a 3 wire dryer outlet (maybe that's part of the problem) which has a hot, neutral, and ground.  I don't see anyplace on here to hook the ground or is that just motor case to ground on the plug?

Here's a pic of the diagram on the motor.  I'm hooking it up 208/230.





And here is a pic of the wiring to the back of the dryer plug...









So what goes where??


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## 110octane

Just as a suggestion; you know the standard disclaimer here, I'm not directing or telling you, just discussing this for entertainment purposes wherein I claim no skill or knowledge.  You may want to replace the plug with a manual "safety switch".  These are a box with a handle on the side that can be obtained for outfitting with fuses.  Looks like you would something in the neighborhood of 15 amp slow blow fuses.  No. 10 AWG wire should handle up to 20 amps.  Get the THW or better rated insulated wire.  You should install the safety switch within safe reach of the machine.  This gives you a way to disconnect the lathe rapidly should an electrical problem develop.  The fuses offer some extra protection.

Remember in single phase conventional home circuitry, both the red and black wire are "hot".  A meter should read about 110 volts between each one and the white "neutral" wire and about 220 volts between the red and black wire. In the newer codes, there is the requirement of a separate full sized ground which runs parallel to the "neutral" (white) wire.  If you want to meet any up to date and local codes you will need a qualified electrician to guide you or do the work.  There is an excellent little book "Wiring Simplified" by H.P. Richter and his successors.  Most big box stores have this little jewel of a book in the electrical section at a reasonable price.

Be safe, make sure the power is off, even if you THINK it is off: if you have doubts about any connections or routing, etc. stop there and don't do it.  Hope this kicks things off.  Geoff


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## ezduzit

110--Good post. Sure like the kill switch idea.

Renn--Do run a separate ground (green). In addition to 110's info your motor plate shows that switching only the red & black leads reverses the motor. Once disconnected, you can check the switch using a multi/ohm meter so you are certain what gets connected to what, and when. Double check your work and post photos, here, before smoke testing it, if you'd like. When tested, if the switch throw isn't intuitive, reverse red and black connections. 

The fact that my lathe (which has been converted to 220v 1-phase) has had its switch replaced may be a simple coincidence because it seems that your old switch should be usable, if connected properly. You may prove this with a search. Never had to deal with 3-phase til now. My mill has a static phase converter so I haven't been concerned about the differences.


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## OldSkull

You can't use this plug and wiring, you need hot-hot-ground (Red-black-green) a NEMA 6 or L6 (twist lock) and a fused safety disconnect switch to shot the power down . This 2 hp motor need 10A at full load under 230V so you can use a 20A plug (L6/6-20) with 12G wires (14G minimum)

This is a dedicated circuit for the lathe but if like me you want to use that plug for other tools like a plasma cutter or a MIG welder you need at least a 50A receptacle like a 6-50R with 10G wiring (12G minimum) control by a fused safety switch (twin 25A time-delay fuse or twin 30A normal fuse) and you install a 2hp 230V single phases starter on the lathe.

NEVER USE THE WHITE NEUTRAL WIRE and ground the motor body to the machine with a isolate green wire.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0d/NEMA_simplified_pins.svg


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## Rennkafer

OldSkull said:


> You can't use this plug and wiring, you need hot-hot-ground (Red-black-green) a NEMA 6 or L6 (twist lock) and a fused safety disconnect switch to shot the power down . This 2 hp motor need 10A at full load under 230V so you can use a 20A plug (L6/6-20) with 12G wires (14G minimum)
> 
> This is a dedicated circuit for the lathe but if like me you want to use that plug for other tools like a plasma cutter or a MIG welder you need at least a 50A receptacle like a 6-50R with 10G wiring (12G minimum) control by a fused safety switch (twin 25A time-delay fuse or twin 30A normal fuse) and you install a 2hp 230V single phases starter on the lathe.
> 
> NEVER USE THE WHITE NEUTRAL WIRE and ground the motor body to the machine with a isolate green wire.
> 
> http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0d/NEMA_simplified_pins.svg




Ok, several questions... 

Why do I need a separate fused disconnect?  The breaker panel is less than 10ft from the lathe and the circuit is breaker protected.  Seems like somewhat overkill...

Why would I need a starter on a capacitor start/run motor?

Is there some reason that for my own use I couldn't just switch the neutral wire in the breaker panel to ground and use what I have.  There isn't going to be a dryer hooked up to it (house is all natural gas these days).

I'd kind of rather not run another circuit given the expense to put a drop out in the middle of the garage floor.  The original wiring is properly sized for what I'm doing (a dryer draws a LOT more amperage continuously than a 2hp motor), just needs the neutral/ground situation fixed.

What I'm really stuck on is wiring the drum switch to the motor.  Since none of the wiring terminology matches between the switch and the motor or between the info I've found doing searches.  Nice of Marathon to just use the wire colors rather than what appears to be a standard notation (T1,T2, etc).  It appears I have a pretty standard switch and a not uncommon motor, it's just not marked in a way my non-electrician brain is finding difficult.


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## 110octane

I am not a licensed electrician and so I am not specifying anything, only informally commenting.   The NEC (National Electrical Code) is primarily designed to protect electrical systems from fire and personal safety hazards.  As an aside, I don't always agree with the code, but most all of it is well intended and important - lately the code has been corrupted with some component manufacturers installing rules about spark proof receptacles in bedrooms (most of us do not have an explosive atmosphere in the bedroom, er-well best left at that!).

A branch line circuit breaker is not intended nor to be used as a switch.  Even though your breaker is "within sight" of the machine, it is not the best way to serve as an equipment disconnect.  Likewise the neutral wire is not a "ground" wire.  Any unbalance of the load will place current in this "neutral" wire. The NEC requires an "equipment grounding conductor" that is independent of the neutral wire.  You will notice that newer electric dryer supply wires and the plugs and short dryer chords have four wires.  New electric dryer installations are following the intent of the code.

Since your motor is single phase you do not need a "starter" in the conventional dialogue.  Motor starters in the sense we are discussing are for (mostly) larger three phase motors.  These starters use "heaters" to protect each phase of the circuit and most often (not always) use a relay type connection method.  That is, there is a solenoid that when the starter is engaged by a separate push button the switch magnetically pulls closed completing the circuit through the "heaters" to the motor.  "Heaters" used in this sense are just a form of fuse, just a matter of vernacular.  Three phase can have a balance problem which is not applicable to single phase.  You may have heard some maintenance folks mention "it dropped a phase".  This means one phase was lost or went to ground and caused a problem (often a big problem).

Hope this addresses your situation.  A light duty "safety switch" is not an expensive piece of equipment.  I would say that one up to thirty amps would be about $20 and I bought an old heavy item (much better construction than today's light stuff) for $5.  Of course, that was luck, it is a "Bulldog" brand and looks like it was designed to handle being hit with a 30-06 slug.

You can put a switch box in place of the present dryer plug and run some metallic cable to the drum switch.  Metallic cable is available in short lengths and you can get short lengths of wire to run through it which will reduce your out of pocket expenses.  You can run a separate green wire back to the supply panel just to be safe-that might not make an inspector happy but it's there.  By the way, I didn't just say that, ignore all of this dialogue.  As to the "equipment ground" do not "daisy chain" your ground wire from the safety switch to the motor and the drum switch.  

I might have a circuit diagram for your drum switch.  Give us the data on the switch, brand, rating, model, etc. and I may have a wiring diagram.  Single phase motors have a starting circuit and that is the only problem that has to be determined.  GCM


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## OldSkull

You can't use the white wire for ground! It's again the code! Only cable can't be "recolored" with tape or paint. All the last statement of 110actane is 100% wright! The mod I suggest you is for using other tools like welder or plasma cutter from that plug but if you want a dedicated plug for the lathe just add a 14g green isolated wire in the conduit (or change the wall wiring) disconnect the white wire from the panel and use only the 220V power (red/black/green) and a NEMA L6/6-15 3 wires receptacle.

A more complicate way to get 120V/240V using all four wires from the same receptacle to power a working light or a cutting oil pump (120V) can be achieved using a simple NEMA L14/14-20 receptacle. Of course you need to wire correctly each components from a aux power distribution box.

*_______Why you need a starter or a disconnect switch______

*One side of the split phases is constantly powered on a single phases motor wen it's connected to a drum switch, you need to shot down the power to it, using your breaker box is not legal ....A starter can be use with heaters matching your motor size and you can even add external emergency switch.
*OR* you can just use a cheap fused disconnected switch with the appropriated fuse for your load like 110octane suggest you. 

The choice is yours....Each way are safe and legal ^_^   

Now you need to find what is you starting winding and running winding on this motor, you can reed on the case "reverse red and black" (5 and 8) open the motor terminal box and take a picture.


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## Rennkafer

No resolution on the motor wiring as yet, a friend of a friend who is a licensed electrician here locally is going to look at it.

In other news though I built the first of my Android DRO controllers yesterday.  It communicates with my laptop just fine and the tablet connects to the bluetooth but having an issue uploading the code to the controller.  Yuriy is having a look at it, I'm guessing I'm mistyping or not understanding the syntax for the program that flashes the code into the controller.  Once I get it working on the bench I'll put it in an enclosure.

A couple pics...


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## woodtickgreg

Wow, that's all way beyond me. I'd just have to buy one, or ask one of my tweek friends to do it. :man:


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## Rennkafer

woodtickgreg said:


> Wow, that's all way beyond me. I'd just have to buy one, or ask one of my tweek friends to do it. :man:




Thanks Greg...

Building them isn't really all that difficult, maybe 10 solder connections and Yuriy did a great job on the assembly guide.  I'm just having problems uploading the code into the microcontroller at the moment.  I'll get that figured out though. 

I'm just cheap, the parts to build a pair of these with all the scales for 2 axes on the lathe and 3 axes on the mill was only ~$250 vs ~$450 for each machine for the cheaper Chinese dedicated DRO's.  The other nice thing about these is that if new features are added, I just update the app on my tablet.  Pretty cool.


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## Chemech

Chuck K said:


> Serial # 67871 would put it somewhere in 1955.  You can find the list here:
> 
> 
> 
> That's a link to the data base at the Logan user group.  It's moderated by Scott Logan.  You may have to join the group to view the page...
> 
> Chuck



Thanks! I'm a member there as well - predates joining here actually - and that's where I checked my S/N - and entered it into the database...


It looked that way in 1942 as well. :tiphat:


And in 1961 when mine was built.  :thumbsup:

Mine was broken at some point and one of the PO's made one on the cheap.  Since it's fully functional I just cleaned it up a bit (after I checked on the price for a new one from Logan).  I'll keep an eye on Ebay for an OEM one in decent condition.[/QUOTE]


Mine look pretty similar - ~1954 - 1955...

Well, I've figured out *part* of the problems with the tailstock of my "new" lathe... The Morse taper for the drill chuck's arbor is jammed in there, but good...

This may take a heat & beat treatment to get things separated.

This still leaves the question as to why the screw to advance & retract the quill is so tight - almost as if the old boy who "fixed" it used a square threaded rod instead of ACME threads... or the reverse...

I got some WD-40 into the threads, but I still had to chuck the quill up in a vise and turn the screw using Channel-Locks to get the blasted screw out - tight is too gentle a word to describe how this thing resisted turning...

Add this to the need to mill up a new clamping block to go under the ways - the factory casting broke into 3 pieces, and while I was able to glue them back together with JB Weld, that was just to get the dimensions...

On the electrical front, I got the idler motor wired up to the rotary phase converter - now, I just need a cooler day to connect up the single phase breaker to the panel box...

So, I made a little progress this weekend, despite the hot weather...

Eric


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## OldSkull

A member in another forum fit this DRO on his Millrite, http://www.shumatech.com/web/
Look nice for the price! Don't need expensive glass, linear or magnetic scale, just common digital scale like your Bluetooth system use.

Here a link with one install on a Rong Fu Mills http://www.micro-machine-shop.com/DRO_Mill.htm


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## Rennkafer

I looked at the Schumatech, but he hasn't had any product listed as available on his website for months.


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## OldSkull

Last time I check they got the DRO 550 PC board kit and the front panel...Just write to Scott (scott@shumatech.com) and ask him or joint the shumetech yahoo group http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/ShumaTech/info 

You can put your name on the waiting list too http://www.shumatech.com/web/products/dro-550/waiting_list


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## Rennkafer

If I can't figure out the Android DRO controllers those will be my second choice.  Since I have all the parts for the Android (and have one built), I'm going to stick with those a bit longer.


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