# 1965 Heavy 10 Rebuild



## rw1 (Nov 18, 2012)

I acquired  this little Toolroom lathe bad in mid-August.  Always wanted a metal lathe and this SB 10L seemed like a stout machine in a small footprint....exactly what I needed.

I have been working periodically on the lathe and learning from all the great SB threads (past and present) on this forum.  It is so fun to look at what others are doing and a great learning experience.  My goal is to get this complete by Christmas - it will be my present!

Here is the machine as purchased 3 months ago.  Dealer put a spray coat of dark gray over the machine before selling.  I really didn't intend to buy and restore the machine, but bearings don't last 47 years....gears need cleaning....parts need repairing....wicks get caked up, etc.  You guys know -- it was time.  Here is the machine as purchased with the photo show to follow


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## rw1 (Nov 18, 2012)

I first started teardown with the  1 hp motor.  3ph motors are dead simple to work on.  Very pleased with the windings and condition   However, the bearings had a little grind noise in them, and the larger 6206 was shot.  Both bearings replaced and a much happier motor was ready for more service.


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## rw1 (Nov 18, 2012)

Apron was pretty good shape.  I was pleased to find all the wicking attached.  The 3 position lever was quick sticky though, difficult to operate.  Also, the oil tubes were clogged, as the left upper reservoir was not getting oil - and the half nut with poor lube access.


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## woodtickgreg (Nov 19, 2012)

I would have bought that too! Looked better than mine did when I bought it! It brings back memories of the in the begining part of a restore. All the little things you find that need attention and fixing. It's so worth it, and fun, and gratifying.


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## rw1 (Nov 20, 2012)

Countershaft assembly removed and steel cabinet stripped down.   There is a left side access panel for belt speed changes.


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## rw1 (Nov 20, 2012)

Some of the curved edges of the steel cabinet were dented around the lower edge.  I used some angle iron - then formed some wooden patterns that increased in size to spread the dents back out.  Worked pretty well.....


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## rw1 (Nov 20, 2012)

I had trouble getting the bearings out of the Countershaft.  One pulled off nicely - the other I used a Dremel cutoff disk.  Man, that disk cut thru it like butter!  This is an easy procedure if a bearing is stuck.  Cleaned, wire wheeled, and painted the Countershaft assembly with Rustoleum Dark Machinery Gray.  Put new Bearings in the Cone Shaft.  Now, all the Under Cabinet is complete and like new!

Cabinet was sent out and sandblasted - powder coated.  Cost was $150 total and well worth the time and money - the cabinet looks terrific and has a super durable paint coating on it now.  The old "paint over rust" cabinet I inherited is now repaired and properly painted.


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## OakRidgeGuy (Nov 20, 2012)

That cabinet really looks nice, I like the color!


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## woodtickgreg (Nov 20, 2012)

Excellent work, that cabinet looks great, and I agree well worth the money, plus powder coat is super durable. Nice work on the under drive, I didn't do mine as the bearings worked great, if they ever take a hike on me I'll do it then.


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## Jerry457 (Nov 20, 2012)

wow another craftman's at work. It looks great and the results are amazing.


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## rw1 (Nov 20, 2012)

This is how I installed the Countershaft drive:

Had some leftover decking 1x6 planks (short cut offs)....and build a little bridge to go under the cabinet.  Used a floor jack and lifted the assembly and balanced it on the jack.  Had my daughter assist by slowly rolling the floor jack inside the cabinet and lifted the counter shaft assembly upward.  Pressed it against the underside of the top to keep it stable, and then installed the 2 1/2" carriage bolts.   Lowered the jack and sat the motor on the lift and bolted the motor to the mounting plate.   That whole assembly is heavy, and the floor jack saved my back!

I also installed a thicker 3/8" steel plate on top of the cabinet and under the drip pan. I milled out the belt opening at a friends house with all the proper bolt locations too.  Now this baby's got some good support with no sag!


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## woodtickgreg (Nov 20, 2012)

I cheated, I had a strong friend hold my motor in place and I put the bolts in, that saved my back! LOL


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## rw1 (Dec 2, 2012)

Greg,

You're killing me.....:rofl:  Well, really working smart!  I love the power of hydraulics!


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## rw1 (Dec 2, 2012)

On to the Gearbox...  it was filthy, greasy, and caked with swarf.  Both interior bearings replaced.  

The 10 stack of gears needs to fit precisely with a firm fit between the middle bearing and inner casting.  I used a 1/2" drive extension and 1 1/8" socket to match the outer race of the new bearing.  This is to prevent damage as it is being pressed into the bore of the gearbox casting.  Careful tapping and checking to get it just right.  The wicks were clogged also --- the whole interior had been sprayed with "Open Lube" to cover the gears.   Lots of cleaning in those oil channels that deliver "type B" machine oil to the shafts.....they were caked too.


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## rw1 (Dec 2, 2012)

Cleaning the bed took a while.  Its the one item I can't use the bench grinder (wire wheel) to clean.  Dawn dishwashing liquid, scrub brushes, industrial degreaser, etc....

Some more parts painted...


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## rw1 (Dec 2, 2012)

Feet and lathe bed assembled on cabinet.....

Apron, Saddle, Taper attachment, Tailstock next up!


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 2, 2012)

Wow! Looking really good. Funny I painted mine on a workmate also! LOL I love that thing!


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## rw1 (Dec 2, 2012)

woodtickgreg said:


> Wow! Looking really good. Funny I painted mine on a workmate also! LOL I love that thing!



you got that right on the Workmate!  You know, it was a bent up here and there, needed some TLC.  I took an hour fixing it up and getting a good sliding action so it would be nicer to use -- always something to fix!


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## Jerry457 (Dec 8, 2012)

rw1 said:


> On to the Gearbox...  it was filthy, greasy, and caked with swarf.  Both interior bearings replaced.
> 
> The 10 stack of gears needs to fit precisely with a firm fit between the middle bearing and inner casting.  I used a 1/2" drive extension and 1 1/8" socket to match the outer race of the new bearing.  This is to prevent damage as it is being pressed into the bore of the gearbox casting.  Careful tapping and checking to get it just right.  The wicks were clogged also --- the whole interior had been sprayed with "Open Lube" to cover the gears.   Lots of cleaning in those oil channels that deliver "type B" machine oil to the shafts.....they were caked too.



NICE WORK. The paint scheme is very dramatic and offsets the cabinet great. I didn't check the gear length but what fun I had getting it all lined up. Took about and hour. The hard part is over my friend and you will be together soon!!! Keep up the great work

Regards

J


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## jeepnbob (Dec 14, 2012)

I hope I can get mine into shape soon.


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## rw1 (Dec 23, 2012)

Hey Guys -

Not ready yet (been too busy making Woodworking Presents)...but have made more progress.  Here is the lathe as she sits now.  Merry Christmas to the South Bend Crowd!


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## rw1 (Dec 23, 2012)

Two of the four Cap Shims were piecemeal -- other two original SB brass @ 0.015".   The expanders were in their PROPER Place upon inspection -- but somewhere down the line the rear sleeve bushing did not have the expanders installed properly  (i.e. -- smashed down on top).  Machine did run cool before I tore it down - spindle nicely turned by hand -  so it should be okay after I clean up a few burrs.


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 24, 2012)

Have you ever gone back and looked at your thread to see how far you have really come? I just re read yours, very cool indeed. I did re read mine also the other day, wow it was rusty! It's pretty fun to read a guys restore from start to finish and watch the transformation. Great work my friend, she's looking good.
Greg


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## rw1 (Jan 1, 2013)

Happy New Years Day 2013!

Assembly continues a bit at a time (and I do mean just a bit...). 

Rear Caps have 0.018" shims to create just enough lift clearance of 0.0008".  I filed away the mushrooming imprints that were on the rear bearing.  The expanders look like they were installed on top of the bearing at one time - instead of sliding in the dovetail way.  Both expanders are working their magic though --  tightening down the Bearing Caps puts a clamp on the spindle,  but tightening (pulling up) the expander key creates clearance as they should.  Notice how far up the rear expander rides up and nearly through the rear bearing!!  One cannot see how the front expander is working, but it was in much better shape and I barely had to file it -- so my guess is the expander is better mated to the bearing gap than it is in the rear.

Front caps have 0.015" shims, but this has too much clearance at 0.002"-- so I'll adjust.  I've run the machine a bit to get a feel for how things are going.   Very quiet and just the click-click of the belt hitting the Cone Pulleys....

Added some extension brass sleeves to the lower spindle drainage holes - to allow a clean(er) way to drain/flush the spindle oil.


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## woodtickgreg (Jan 1, 2013)

rw1 said:


> Happy New Years Day 2013!
> 
> Assembly continues a bit at a time (and I do mean just a bit...).  Rear Caps have 0.018" shims to create just enough lift clearance of 0.0008".   Front caps have 0.015" shims, but this has too much clearance at 0.002"-- so I'll adjust.  I've run the machine a bit to get a feel for how things are going.   Very quiet and just the click-click of the belt hitting the Cone Pulleys....
> 
> Added some extension brass sleeves to the lower spindle drainage holes - to allow a clean(er) way to drain/flush the spindle oil.



Awesome progress, great tip on the oil reservoir drain tubes, when I change my oil I'm gonna steal your idea!


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## rw1 (Jan 1, 2013)

woodtickgreg said:


> Awesome progress, great tip on the oil reservoir drain tubes, when I change my oil I'm gonna steal your idea!



You keep me going Greg!!  Thanks for the encouragement!!


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## woodtickgreg (Jan 1, 2013)

rw1 said:


> You keep me going Greg!!  Thanks for the encouragement!!



Funny! I am a little jelous though, I really want to get mine fired up too, great to see yours spinnin! I am at the point where I need a vfd to get mine completed, made a phone call yesterday but with the holiday no one was there. I'm so close. You encourage me too!


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## rw1 (Jan 1, 2013)

Here are a bunch of photos:   removal of spindle,  reconditioning of the sleeve bearings with some filing, fitting, etc.  Re-installation of spindle, headstock, etc...

Kind of backward as these should have been added earlier.....  Oh well, you guys get the idea......


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## rw1 (Jan 1, 2013)

woodtickgreg said:


> Funny! I am a little jelous though, I really want to get mine fired up too, great to see yours spinnin! I am at the point where I need a vfd to get mine completed, made a phone call yesterday but with the holiday no one was there. I'm so close. You encourage me too!




Greg -
Those guys at FactoryMation are very nice.  I will have to tackle the "right" way to wire the machine later.  Now,  I just use "quick connects" from Lowes for testing.  I'm using an older TECO FM50 - but certainly adequate.  From what I know, the Motor is a direct connect to the VFD,  then later.... all the start, stop, rev, fwd, Potentiometer controls go directly to the relays on the VFD -- and the VFD will handle it.  It is great having 3 ph motors run off of the VFD!


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