# Atlas Mfc Mill Arbor Drawing ?



## Mondo

Does anyone have, or can make, a drawing with dimensions of the M1-560L 1" arbor for the MFC Mill?
My newly acquired mill does not have one at this time and examining photographs it should be easy to make on my lathe.  I just need all the dimensions.

Thanks!

Spiral_Chips


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## Rob

I am on the road this week but can do it next week if no one else does it before I get home.


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## Mondo

Thanks!  I am not in any hurry.  The mill is still crusted with dried oil and grunge.  It will sit in the garage for a month or so before I get to start tearing it down for cleaning.

Spiral_Chips


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## Restorer

Spiral_Chips;
Drawing attached from downloads.
                                            Enjoy,
                                                    Restorer


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## Gunner

Restorer,

He is looking for a drawing of the M1-560L 1" arbor, not the drawbar.  We have a parts list of it but I have never seen an actual drawing.  Someone might call Clausing and see whether or not they still have the drawing.  If anyone does call, first question you need to ask is whether or not they still have either an M1-560 or M1-560L.  If they do, they won't supply the drawing.  If they don't, they probably will, if they have it.  We do have a drawing (not factory) for the M1-567 Arbor Driver.


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## Mondo

I contacted Clausing and they are contacting their vendor to see if the parts are still available.  If so they will quote me a price on all the pieces in the kit.  I hope to have a reply in a couple of days.

Spiral_Chips


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## Rob

Let me know.  I just got home late last night.  If not I will get mine out and measure it.


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## Rob

Sorry it took so long.  The 1" arbor and the 7/8" arbors are both the same.  The only difference is in the diameter.  The 1" is just a hair less the 1", about .9998" or it might be a error in my mic.  Both use the same nut to hold the spacers on.  The key way is 1/4".   The nut is counter bored about 1/4"


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## Mondo

WoW!  Thank you!  That's perfect!  I have not heard back yet from Clausing. But I can make one from your drawings!

Spiral_Chips


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## Rob

Let me know if you need anything else.  I think that the only critical measurements are the Main part of the arbor, the MT end and the end that goes in the overarm bearing.


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## Mondo

Clausing responded this morning.  Neither the 7/8" or the 1" arbor are available.  Neither are the drawings.  So if anyone needs an arbor they are on their own to find one for sale from a scrapper, or make one based on your drawings!

Spiral_Chips


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## Wheels17

I recently purchased Craftsman horizontal, which is missing the drawbar, arbor support bracket, and arbors.  I missed the tools4cheap arbors by about a month.  When I contacted him, he said his inventory had been sold to an ebay vendor, and the vendor no longer lists the arbors for sale.  So, I took Rob's pictures above and created a drawing for the 7/8 arbor.  I would like to have others on the forum check the drawing against their real arbors so that I can correct the drawings.  I made three changes from Rob's sketches:

1. I narrowed the drive slots from .289 to 5/16, for better fit to the .25" driver pins.

2. I specified the depth of the slots a bit shallower, again to better fit the driver.  I measured my driver and checked an on-line drawing of the driver to make my decision.

3.  I show the keyway on the shaft rotated 1/4 turn from the location on his picture.  This was because I forgot to put the slot in the drawing originally, and if I showed it in line with the drive lugs the drawing would have been less clear.  I would welcome feedback on the importance of the  location of the keyway.

I've attached a .pdf of the drawing.  Please comment and suggest corrections, and when it looks to be right, I'll modify it for 1" and 1 1/4" arbors as well and put them in the files section.  I can provide it in cad drawing format if anyone needs it that way.

(P.S.  I previously uploaded an arbor draw-in bar drawing, but nobody has commented...  I've attached that as well)


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## wa5cab

The only thing that I see is that in your comment #1, you meant 9/32" instead of 5/16".  You should probably add the word "TYP." after R0.0938.  And I noticed that you increased the diameter of the 7/8" portion to exactly on 7/8".  Did you you measure the ID of some 7/8" bore cutters and confirm that they are all over 7/8"?  Also, you probably need to show pretty tight tolerance on that diameter as well as the pilot diameter (for the arbor support bushing).  I am not absolutely sure that this is still the common practice, but assumed unspecified tolerance used to be (back when I still had a day job) +/- 0.005", which wouldn't work on those two diameters.  Based on what I know that Atlas specified the 10" and 12" (and I assume same for the 6" and mill) spindle register to, I would suggest 0.8750"/0.8745".  

If you will make those minor changes, I'll put the drawing on an Atlas template with your name on it (you'll have to send me that) and put it into Downloads.

I can't see what difference the angular relation between the arbor driver pin slots and the key slot would make.  But I'll look at both of my arbors and see which way the factory made it.  It might not be a bad idea to make that one detail different from the factory arbors for future identification.


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## wa5cab

And the reason that I haven't commented on your drawbar drawing is that mine is still in the crate.


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## Wheels17

At least you know where your drawbar is.....

Thanks for the comment on the dimension in the comment.  I was a chemical engineer before I retired, so my mechanical and drawing skills are still developing. 

I looked at Colvin, 1945 and on page 396 he comments "Hole tolerances are all from basic to .001 inch oversize."  

I looked in my drawer of cutters, and found I have very few 7/8" cutters.  Most are gear cutters.  And their keyways measures about .133 wide, not anywhere near .250.

I did find an interesting table on page 1360  in my grandfather's 1943 Machinery's Handbook "American Standard Keys and Keyways for Milling Cutters and Arbors".

For 7/8" arbors, they specify 1/8" nominal keys, with a range of .125 to .126 for the keyway.  The bottom of the keyway is .8075 to .8125 from the opposite side of the  shaft..

For 1" arbors, they specify 1/4" nominal keys, with a range of .250 to .251 for the keyway.  The bottom of the keyway is .8438 to .8388 from the opposite side of the  shaft. 

For 1 1/4" arbors, they specify 5/16" nominal keys, with a range of .3125 to .3135 for the keyway.  The bottom of the keyway is 1.063  to 1.058 from the opposite side of the  shaft.

On page 1361, they have a table specifying  the "American Standard" hole diameters for single angle cutters, exact diameter to .001 over. Page 1375 shows the same for Stagger tooth milling cutters and slitting saws.

So, the picture must be a  1" arbor with the .250 keyway.  Measuring the flange and the arbor, it also works out to 1".  I also noticed that the keyway just runs off the end of the shaft, as opposed to my drawing.

One other area that I really need confirmed is the length of the MT2 up to the flange, and the depth of the drawbar thread hole.  New drawings in a few days.


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## wa5cab

Wheels,

I have a factory 1" arbor but it will take daylight to figure out where I put it.  I also have a factory 7/8" arbor but it is probably also in the crate.  However, there is a small chance, now that I think on it, that I may have kept it out of the crate when I opened it up late last year.  I will know tomorrow.

I did measure the key ways in a number of 1" nominal slitting saws and thicker cutters plus several keyed spacers up to 1/4" thick.  The range of keyway widths ran from 0.254" to 0.260".  Need to measure some key stock, too.  But this tells me that the key slot in the arbor needs to be opened up to around 0.255".

Also, I measured the nominal 1" holes in all of them and found at least all of the cutter ID's to be bang on 1.0000 +/- 0.0005".  Which means that the arbor diameter needs to be slightly under 1".

When I get to my 7/8" arbor, I'll report the key width and diameter.

I think it is going to be a while before anyone should start making an arbor.

I'll also check whether the key way runs off the end of the 1" and 7/8".  I can't think of any reason for it not to.

Of course, anyone else with any of these parts on hand and accessible, feel free to chime in.


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## Rob

In my previous post I have a picture of what I believe is a atlas 1" arbor. The key way does run off the end.


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## wa5cab

Right.  Forgot to go back and look.


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## Wheels17

Rob, I based my drawing on your pictures, but wasn't sure if running the keyway off the end of the arbor was standard.  

I see by your picture that the nut is about 3/4"  thick, with a relieved area.   McMaster sells an extra wide 3/8-16 that's 47/64 wide, or .734". I was planning to use that nut and bore it out to match your picture.

If you could provide the length of  your morse taper section, it would really help me out.  The taper is shown with a gauge length of 2 9/16, but there's usually a bit that's beyond the gauge line, about .20" in most references.  I've shown it in the drawing at the gauge length, but I'm not sure that will seat properly with the drive nut and lugs.


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## CluelessNewB

Here are pictures of the 1" Arbor that came with my MFC.  I assume it is original.  The keyway measures between 0.249" and 0.251" wide as best I can measure with my digital calipers.  Note the keyway runs right into the drive pin notch.  The overall length of the morse taper is about 2.35" as best as I can measure it.


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## Wheels17

Wow!  They really hogged that thing out! Quite the ripples on the bottom of the keyway.  Must have been a big horizontal.   
Thanks for the pictures.  They are excellent.

The taper is really short compared to the specifications at 2  9/16".  I'll have to put a #1 in there and see what spacing I get.


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## CluelessNewB

Wheels17 said:


> The taper is really short compared to the specifications at 2 9/16". I'll have to put a #1 in there and see what spacing I get.



I'm measuring 0.702" as close as I can get on the large end of the taper and about 0.589" on the small end again using an inexpensive digital caliper.   Take those measurements with as many grains of salt you deem appropriate.


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## Wheels17

Thanks!!  The standards call for .572 to .700 over a length of 2 9/16, at least the way I read it.   What is the length of the taper from the end to the driver boss?  The mill I bought has a vertical head, and I can't get the %&^*& pulley off to try the arbor driver.  A standard MT2 collet slipped in by hand sticks out about .20.  (I meant a #2 in the last note).


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## Rob

Just returned from a trip to Madison Wi. I might add it was not the right time of year to go there. I did glance at my 7/8 arbor and it appears to have a 1/8 keyway. Will try and get pics and measurements of it and the rest of the measurements in the next day or two.


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## wa5cab

Rich,

The drive pin notch has been butchered for some reason.

Wheels,

That should be 3/4"-16 vice 3/8".


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## Wheels17

Rob, I'm not sure what you are referring to with the 3/4-16 comment.  

I've attached the most recent updates of the drawings.   Pictures I've found on ebay all show the keyway running off the end, so I've modified the drawings to show that.  One thing I'm still missing on the drawing is the relief between the 3/4-16 thread and the arbor proper.  Another interesting discovery, the arbors that are genuine atlas arbors all seem to have the keyway in line with one of the drive slots.  The ones formerly sold by tools4cheap have the keyway at 90 degrees to the drive slots, as I've drawn them.  

Tools4cheap also appears to have used different diameter nuts for the 7/8" and the larger arbors.  The extra wide mcmaster nuts (3/4"-16 1 1/4" 47/64" 10 96460A640 13.35) are 1 1/4 across flats.  They would be fine for the 7/8 arbor, and probably for the 1", but a custom nut will be necessary for the 1 1/4 if that one is ever made.


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## Rob

Ok here are some more pics and measurements of the arbors.

The relief at the end of the 3/4 thread is 1/8".  I don't think that this is critical as long as you do have the relief cut as the nut will go over the end of the main part of the arbor if needed.  The nut for the 1" arbor has a 1" and the 7/8" nut has a 7/8" relief cut in them that is 1/4" deep.

The key way in the 7/8 arbor is 1/8".  I do not see that it maters where you put the key way.

Let me know if you need anything else.


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## Wheels17

Thank you for the pictures. I count 39/16s, or 2 7/16 for the overall length of the MT2, with a 3/16 straight section as often seen on drawbar collets.  This makes my proposed arbor 1/8" too long.  Right now I can't get the vertical head pulley off the spindle, so I can't do any fitting until I get the driver nut on the spindle.  I'm going to have to make an expander wrench for the interior of the spindle to see if I can get it off. 

I've updated the drawings with an arbor nut, and the thread relief.


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## wa5cab

Wheels17 said:


> Rob, I'm not sure what you are referring to with the 3/4-16 comment.



Wheels,

Back in post #19, you wrote that McMaster had a long nut that was more than long enough to use to make the big counter-bored nut on the arbor but you wrote 3/8"-16.  Seems that I recall the phone ringing or some other interruption while I was writing that and there are posts in between yours and mine.


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## Wheels17

That would be tough to put on....   It's right in the drawings.


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## Mondo

Do you need a nut?  I made one from a hunk of C1018 1.25" Hex:






3/4-16 thread.

It would be an easy task to make another. Just need to figure a value.

Spiral_Chips


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## Wheels17

Nice work!   I have a South Bend 10k, so if modifying a commercial nut doesn't work, I'll give it a shot.


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## 34_40

I mentioned some time ago that I'd get some pics so today I got it done.  I also added some pics of the spacers because there had been a discussion about the keys for the cutters and not in the spacers.

the bottom arbor is from tools4cheap when he was closing up. That nut doesn't have the counterbore and only 2 flutes to tighten the nut.  Hope you find it interesting.


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## Mondo

It would be an easy task to cut a recess in the black nuts that came with the arbors from Mr. Beck.
My attitude for key notches in the spacers is you really don't need more than a few short ones that are notched.  Put one on each side of any thin cutter like slitting saws and use short stubby keys.  It is far easier to keep a selection of key stock in assorted lengths than it is to be broaching key slots in all the spacers, especially the longer ones.  Other than convenience of having one on each side of a thin cutter the spacers have no need for key slots.

Spiral_Chips


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## 34_40

I agree with having a couple spacers only that have a key slot.   Say 2 at 1/4" wide and 2 at 1/2" wide.
This would pretty much let you cover all the combinations of various width cutters and like you say just have a small variety of keystock in different lengths.

But so far in anything I've done, I've never had a cutter spin free and I've only inserted a key once and that cutter was wide enougth to cover the short key I had used.


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## Wheels17

34_40, thank you for the pictures.  They make the nut issues very clear.  The points about the spacers are very good.  Making the short ones keyed is a much simpler task than the long ones.  Thanks for the insight, guys..

Back to the taper.  I finally got the pulley from the vertical head off my mill, and put the arbor driver nut on.  When I put a commercial morse taper into my mill (the bore has been spun, so this all has some +/- to it), I measure .697 taper diameter at the face of the arbor driver.  With a standard taper that ends at .700, that would give (.700-.697)/.04995=.06006 or a little  under 1/16" spacing between the face of the arbor driver and the driving flange on the arbor if the MT2 intersects the arbor flange at a diameter of .700.  This suggests a full length taper should work.

Rob's photo makes the length of the taper look to be 2 7/16, not the 2 9/16 from the books.  I also keep forgetting the straight section on the end of the tapers.  I need to get that into the drawings as well.  I'm in  the midst of making a  tumbler pivot shaft assembly right now, but I  think I might try making a taper after that.  The compund travel is only 2 1/4", so that should get interesting.  I see a file and bluing in m  future.  I still am tossing around the idea of using a commercial taper with a thread screwed into a home made arbor.  An ebay  seller named thirddevel sells a MT2 x 1/2-20 arbor with a 3/8-16 drawbar thread.  It's  kind of expensive at $21.90, but much cheaper than the real Jacobs arbors.


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## Rob

I think that I would start with a piece of drill rod the correct diameter for the arbor.  That way you would not have to worry about the long section.


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## Wheels17

That would save a lot of fussy machining.   I could drill and tap the end for 1/2-20, extend the keyway to the end of the drill rod and make the drive flange as a separate piece, keyed to the shaft. Buy the taper, and only turn the threads and end bearing. 
Thanks for the idea!


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## wa5cab

Although my 7.8" arbor is still in the crate, I found where I had put the factory 1" one and looked at all of the spacers that I had gotten with it plus a second group from another source.  What I found generally agrees with 34_40's photos.  All of the 1/2" and thinner spacers are keyed.  Some of the thicker ones are and some are not.


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## BIGPAULY

Well, I'm a day late and a dollar short with this reply but it may help.  Found a pic of the atlas arbor drawing a while back. Not the clearest but mostly readable.


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## Wheels17

That's great!  I just got thorough with a re-tramming of my vertical mill, and I'm starting on the arbor support.    This is great to have.   Thank you for digging it  up!


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## Wheels17

Back on the arbor again (no progress yet on the support).  I took the picture that BIGPAULY  provided and did my best to turn it into a drawing.  There are a few questionable areas:

1.  Atlas specified both turn and grind diameters for many parts. The diameter of drive ring turn unreadable, I'm reading the  grind as 1.365 to 1.363
2. I can't read the width of the drive ring.  Other sources show as .400, scaled measurement off the picture is .39(4-7).  I have no idea how a fractional dimension that looks simple could end up at .400, but it is consistent.
3. I'm not sure of the minimum diameter of bearing on end.  Can't read turn at all or the minimum grind, aim/max appears to be .625
4. The positioning of the drive notches is questionable.  I first assumed that the dimension by the flange, and the dimension by the end view were both 1 1/8".  That didn't look right at all.  I tried 1 1/16" and that looks good.

The notes on the drawing were interesting as well. I think the notes must show what was _previously_ there.   Not an ME, so I don't know the protocol.
The note for 2/23/56 changes the taper rate.  The note is .602" or .603" per ft.  .5994" per ft. is the standard in Machinery's for #2.  #3 is .60235" per ft.
The note for 9/24/48 appears to read E 12 1/8"; 7 13/16"; 1" and appears to relate to the overall length and the active length of the arbor.  It would be interesting to see if someone with a really old arbor sees a different length.
Then there's the small end of the taper.  On 2/2/42, HEM added a dimension for the small end of the taper for turning.  Then on 2/26/51 H. MOD decides it's confusing and removes it.

There also appears to be manufacturing instructions on the left side of the drawing.  I was interested  in this to see if there were any clues to help me make the arbor.  My best translation:

Turn ????dia, 3/4 dia, center, cut reliefs, face, thread, chamfer
Cut off and form end mach #435 spd 460 fd .oo4
Turn, form taper, turn, drill & tap 3/8 and center ( this seems odd, as it would not allow a proper center for the later grinding steps)
Mill keyway mach #254 spd 119 fd 1.2"  (sounds like one pass to cut full depth, at 1.2 inches per minute)
Mill driver slots mach #266 spd 172 fd 1.6(4.6?)
Rough grind mach #111
Rough grind mach #363 grind front side of shoulder(this one and the previous one were bracketed together)
Finish grind long step mach #111
Finish grind long step mach #363  (this one and the previous one were bracketed together)
Grind shaft end to size mach #111 or #363
Grind taper to size
Grind shoulder (Clean up) mach #111 or #363

There's no mention of heat treatment in this process. That's one thing that concerned me as I thought about  making one myself.  I wonder what "#2 S.P. Steel"  is/was...

I'd really appreciate any comments the community may have.   I've also cheated a bit.  I added a .pdf extension to the Atlas Arbor Drawing Copy.dwg file so that I could make a true drawing available if you need that.
Moderators, if that's a big no-no, please delete the file and chastise me appropriately.


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## wa5cab

Well, that would be as far as I'm concerned an acceptable way to upload a .DWG.  But unfortunately, DraftSight can't open it.  And Acrobat won't convert it.  So I can't comment on your comments.


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## Wheels17

Odd.  It was created in DraftSight.  I'm assuming you stripped the .jpg extension off when you used Draftsight.  

I just went to my drive, renamed Atlas Arbor Drawing Copy.dwg.pdf to Atlas Arbor Drawing Copy Unpdf.dwg (so it wouldn't overwrite my original) and it opened fine. 
Must be something to do with the upload process.


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## Wierd Harold

Wheels17 said:


> Odd.  It was created in DraftSight.  I'm assuming you stripped the .jpg extension off when you used Draftsight.
> 
> I just went to my drive, renamed Atlas Arbor Drawing Copy.dwg.pdf to Atlas Arbor Drawing Copy Unpdf.dwg (so it wouldn't overwrite my original) and it opened fine.
> Must be something to do with the upload process.


I assume you meant "strip off the .pdf" ,which I did and it opened in Draftsight fine.
HWF


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## wa5cab

There must be something wrong with my copy of DraftSight.  I haven't used it in a long time.


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## wa5cab

No, I just opened a couple of other .DWG's that date from the 1990's.  But when I try to open the arbor drawing, I get an error message saying "This version of drawing file is not supported".


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## Wheels17

Here's PDF.  I tried to  upload an autocad R12 version with the .pdf cheat, and the interface was too smart to let me do that.

By the way, I have the crazy number of decimals so that the fractions work out.  Who designs something 7 13/32"???  Especially when it's going to be held in an arbor support that slides along the overarm!!


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## Mondo

Getting caught up...  Very nice!!!  Thank you for posting!
Is there any chance of getting a scan of the original Atlas Press drawing?

Spiral_Chips


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## wa5cab

I called Clausing late yesterday afternoon.  They apparently have no stock remaining of anything related to the arbors but the girl then said that they had some drawings and that she would send them to me.  As it was nearly 5 PM their time, I'm not too surprised that I didn't receive anything yesterday.  If she does send anything on Monday, I will clean it up and upload it.


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## OpusG5

Great Job on drawings, any one have spare arbor or willing to part with theirs before I attempt to make one?


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## JPMacG

mymachineshop.net has new 1" arbors.  They are costly, but then on the other hand, I would not want to make it for his price.


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## ThinWoodsman

Is he accepting new orders? I contacted him about a different part and mentioned the arbors always being "out of stock", and he said he was way behind on part-making.

Reminds me, still need to make an arbor - been limping along with an endmill holder 

EDIT: Looks like he is!


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## cabal2600

Hello,
Is anybody had construct Arbor's for Atlas MFC yet???
This is the only component that gives me kick backs,I don't have neather 1" or the 7/8" variations...
My milling machine still incomplete without those parts...
Unless somebody willing to sell original or post production...


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## wa5cab

You should have read through this entire thread, which first would have told you that both factory drawings are in Downloads, much cleaner than they were when I first got them.  Regardless of whether you are going to make the 7/8" diameter one or the 1", you should download and read both of them as each have notes that could apply to the other but aren't on the other.

The thread also has some other tips, like where to buy a commercially available nut that can be modified much quicker that you could make one out of hex stock.  Also, although I didn't delete them at the time, the practice of downloading the drawings from our Downloads and then posting them here in the thread is discouraged for two obvious reasons.

Finally, although I think that he sold all that he had made, there was an eBay seller who was selling both sizes, plus a larger one that Atlas never made.  You will not find the old ads on eBay thanks to their practice of hiding (or maybe even of deleting) and ads more than 60 days old.  But the seller may still be on ebay and would probably at least answer a message sent through eBay.

Also, although I don't recall ever seeing any on Joel's site, you might try checking with MyMachineShop.net.


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## cabal2600

What size of key way on 7/8 size arbor???
I know 1" have 1/4 key way...


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## wa5cab

1/8"  See drawing Atlas M1-561 Arbor 7-8.pdf.


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## cabal2600

Good,
I don't know why it was written by one of members here that 1" and 7/8 have identical 1/4 key's???
I knew that is BS,all the cutting saw's 7/8 center hole I seen at ebay have small key ways...

I had obtained 2 keyed rods for arbor construction project,one is 7/8" and other 1",the rod's have threaded end 3/4x16 TPI but it need to be reduced at end 15.8mm in order to fit into arm earing..
I had ordered 1 1/16 wide bushings which would be first retained by hex screw's/bolts and those area's would be weld shut,next front and rear gaps would be grund off and weld all together with arbor rod...
Last step installing MT2 shanks which would conclude arbor assembly,this is way cheaper to make arbor rather than buy them at expansive price at MymachineShop.net,the seller want too much waiting time like 10 days in order to mail those arbor's despites expansive price..

The keyed rod's been checked with actual cutting saw's and they sits perfect like they belong there...
The last part would be airing spacers and shims...

I had personally made 8 different parts for my MFC to avoid over spending more money,saddest part that I had to get my MFC piece by piece,the real saddest part that now that my MFC have all parts for assembly I seen complete machine getting sold much cheaper at ebay,where those sellers was 4 month's ago??

Arbor's would fully complete MFC,my MFC have totally different spindle..
Unlike original that have 7/8 rear body I had adopt 618 lathe by extending it and it's rear spacer by 1/2 longer..
The bull gears are exact same from 618 lathe and MFC so as back gear's,spindle pulley also looks exact same except have smaller belt tracks 3/8 wideness of the belt..
I was lucky to find close matching countershaft pulley that have parallel track,4 different size tracks means 4 different speeds for spindle....
The eccentric rod is self made so as handle and headstock side panel,cross slide screw bearing/bushing also self made and no difference from original except rear end have wideness that hold over arm plate better without allowing it to slip out...
I had made 2 crank handles for table and one locking piece for arbor arm was been replaced by making square hole for bottom,original piece was ugly like somebody was took bite from it..
I had to make spacer later from aluminum rod,all parts mostly available except motor mount bracket which I would make tomorrow at work..

As for headstock assembly I need collar with 1" hole for front of spindle,the bull gear must be retained properly and not allowed to move forward,if that happens bull gear indexing pin would bind with spindle pulley and cost damage,that issue is common problem on both Atlas 618 lathe's and Atlas MF series milling machines..
Atlas press Company wasn't provide drawings on their manuals that this critical collar is missing,same small part cost problems to over spend money to find expansive parts in order to fix damages...

Another issue is failure to adjust spindle bearings correctly,if bearings loose it would cost shifting and damage to spindle parts plus fast bearing wear outs....

I also found strange issues about Timken 07079 bearings,the one I bought before was too long than factory data sheet specify and it over passes headstock race by 3 extra milimiters longer,although bearing marked 07079 it was incorrect bearing,it took me times to get next bearing after that 4A but it too small and it overpasses race but center bore correct 3/4 size..

Last week I was asked about the bearing another seller and finally got correct British bearing instead of Timken 07079X,that is precise bearing to fit in race of headstock..
Yet without the collar with 1" center hole I won't start assembling headstock,only when all parts available...

The headstock with spindle would be assembled first,than it attaches to body cast and body cast attaches to bottom mounting plate,than goes gear mounting plate,countershaft assembly and motor mount with motor...
My MFC have very nice clean parts like from museum,I had repaired 3 parts bottom plate,countershaft hanger and table.
There was some small crack's and chippings but nothing major,each part was cost me 30 bucks and that was sweet deal I couldn't resist..

I have 12 different saw's with 1" hole,the most harder ones to get is slab or plain cutters,those are expansive and most never available with 7/8 or 1" holes,they goes 1 1/2 or 1/14 arbor holes..
The very interesting ones to get is gear cutting saw's,convex and shaped cutters like hob cutters..

I also have plan how to build vertical head attachment that won't depend on belts and pulley's extra setting,it would be attached to spindle directly instead and retained by draw bar,the outer flange would be attached at headstock by means of special indexing bracket that allow head to rotate at any degree's..
I think better to use R8 collets,I have whole complete set of them among with end mill cutters and shell cutters....

In past I had bought very huge lot of lathe cutters,milling cutters,reamers and various center drill bits,that was like nearly 17 years ago,they was dirt cheap and I bought them,now lot's like that no longer available or getting sold,it was worth it to spend 45 bucks back at that time...

I have my Craftsman 109 lathe under modification,when completed it would go beyond it's original capacity load,unlike original spindle which had weak 1/2 threaded chuck end my new spindle is 3/4 size instead and it hollowed allowing do some deep drilling..
The apron was been redone and balanced unlike before,bottom of it been extended and new parts would be installed like normal feeding gears with worm and geared rack for manual use,as for auto feed new half nut been made which would engage or disengage lead screw,still need to make camming lever for half nut...
Final part would be building gear box assembly for lead screw,the part that Craftsman never made,this would complete lathe assembly..
Another curious thing about 109 model lathes that secondary bed could be modified and attached to make over 56" swing,that easily can enable deep drilling operations.
I have cast's of steady and following rest's that I made but they won't be done until whole lathe is completed...

I had also made my own support column for Wen 12" drill press,new column have way thicker walls,I had mount geared rack direct to it and now table assembly no longer can self rotate which among new column eliminate drill press head to lean forward or table self rotation which result out of center drilling most from time to time...

The new column was weight tested and it hold 10 ton pressure,I made construction exactly 1:1scale,column fits as should firmly without to tight or too loose issues...
I had also added extra 1/2 longer over original I think 28 inches long column,I threw original one out,that wasn't been a column it was exhaust pipe with thin wall's,that is not a pipe,it is rolled sheet metal that spot weld into pipe shape..
That how modern drill presses are made,one single Chinese factory assemble them in China under different brands....

The older USA made machinery was much better made than new junk on modern days...
What I like about Wen is belt adjusting pulley's that regulate speed from 450 to nearly 3000 rpm,the only thing I think missing is spindle,it should be made hollowed and have end thread for draw bar,this would eliminate arbor's to came out from quill area,the drill chuck arbor have end threaded,the collet chuck ER32 also have hole threaded that means that draw bar must be used for them to proper retaining...

I have an milling compound table that easily installs at drill press table,also there enough room for small milling vises there as well,turning drill press into vertical milling machine....
From time to times vertical milling machine like Brigeport could become drill press by mounting R8 arbor with chuck inside,they work vise versa...
Horizontal milling machines use saw cutters,in some cases they need most,slab cutter allow remove lot of extra surface per single pass,this is similar to shell milling....


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