# Atlas 10f - Qc42 Lathe



## Bill Rosselot (Feb 11, 2016)

Guy I need some more help I'm sorry but I'm going at this a little blind, but going slow.  I have some questions on a few of the parts I have found. This is the miter gear that runs the cross feed off of the lead screw shouldn't there be a key in this gear to take power of the lead screw?  Also the oil hole does not go through the brass sleeve.  Confused need help


----------



## wa5cab (Feb 11, 2016)

Bill,

To take your second question first, the bushing in the gear support is porous or sintered bronze (Oilite).  It does not need a hole through it.

Yes, there should be a key in the bore of the miter gear.  If you look closely in the bore, you should be able to see where it once was.  Several members here or on the Yahoo Group have reported successfully repairing this by broaching a keyway.  At least one secured the key with very small flat head screws.  Another securing method actually used by Clausing in one or two of their lathes is to bend the ends of a standard square key up to make the key look like a very short shallow channel.  Then mill the inner bend radius out square, with the legs just far enough apart to slip over the ends of the gear.  And short enough on the gear end to clear the other miter gear.  But you still have to cut a keyway in the gear.


----------



## Bill Rosselot (Feb 11, 2016)

wa5cab said:


> Bill,
> 
> To take your second question first, the bushing in the gear support is porous or sintered bronze (Oilite).  It does not need a hole through it.
> 
> Yes, there should be a key in the bore of the miter gear.  If you look closely in the bore, you should be able to see where it once was.  Several members here or on the Yahoo Group have reported successfully repairing this by broaching a keyway.  At least one secured the key with very small flat head screws.  Another securing method actually used by Clausing in one or two of their lathes is to bend the ends of a standard square key up to make the key look like a very short shallow channel.  Then mill the inner bend radius out square, with the legs just far enough apart to slip over the ends of the gear.  And short enough on the gear end to clear the other miter gear.  But you still have to cut a keyway in the gear.


Bob I have looked with a magnification and I dont see anything I think that maybe it has been changed in it life time and the replacement gear did not have power feed to the cross slide.


----------



## wa5cab (Feb 11, 2016)

Well, maybe so.  But if so, why bother?    Without the key, it can't do anything.

Is the gear steel or Zamak?


----------



## Bill Rosselot (Feb 11, 2016)

wa5cab said:


> Well, maybe so.  But if so, why bother?    Without the key, it can't do anything.
> 
> Is the gear steel or Zamak?


steel a magnet sticks to it


----------



## Bill Rosselot (Feb 11, 2016)

Bill Rosselot said:


> steel a magnet sticks to it


Bob lots of things on this lathe dont make much sense.  Like the reverse tumbler does not have the reverse gear but has a reversing switch.  Ive been told that they really doesnt work very well

Bill


----------



## wa5cab (Feb 11, 2016)

Are you saying that the tumbler only has the compound gear and one of the tumbler gears?  And that the main drive motor is reversible?  If so, you're quite right.  For one thing, you can't cut left hand threads.  Fortunately, that's an easy fix.

Back to the miter gear.  If it's steel, it is not the original.  But as it's steel (assuming that it's the proper pitch and so forth), you can broach the key way and silver solder the key in.  And file out the fillet.


----------



## Bill Rosselot (Feb 11, 2016)

wa5cab said:


> Are you saying that the tumbler only has the compound gear and one of the tumbler gears?  And that the main drive motor is reversible?  If so, you're quite right.  For one thing, you can't cut left hand threads.  Fortunately, that's an easy fix.
> 
> Back to the miter gear.  If it's steel, it is not the original.  But as it's steel (assuming that it's the proper pitch and so forth), you can broach the key way and silver solder the key in.  And file out the fillet.


I looked at it and it looks like it was not oiled in a long time and ran.  There is alot of scoring in the bronze bushing and the gear itself is pretty thin through there.  I think I'm better off to bite the bullet and buy a new set of gears Ive found all of the gears for the apron and the compete set is only $160 bucks which will give me a complete set of new gears in there with a spare 2 spare half nuts.


----------



## wa5cab (Feb 11, 2016)

OK.  You're probably money and certainly time ahead by doing that.


----------



## David VanNorman (Feb 11, 2016)

Between 11.30 and 12.30 there is a faint outline of a key or am Iwrong again.


----------



## Bill Rosselot (Feb 12, 2016)

David VanNorman said:


> Between 11.30 and 12.30 there is a faint outline of a key or am Iwrong again.


I thought so also but if it was there it is gone and very smooth.  I think it probably had a key at one time but the machine as only used to debur parts.  So it was used by someone that did not know what they were doing i'm sure.


----------



## Bill Rosselot (Mar 17, 2016)

Things are back together now.  I have some issues with the gearing lineup but will sort through that in a few days.  Getting the motor and pulleys mounted.  Ive ordered now wiper retainers and they should be here in a week or so.  Is is coming along just slow.  Thought I would give an update.


----------



## schor (Mar 17, 2016)

Which gears are not lining up? And what was the outcome for the crossfeed missing keyway?

Glad your getting is all together.


----------



## Rob (Mar 17, 2016)

Could you post a pic of the gears that are not lining up?


----------



## Bill Rosselot (Mar 17, 2016)

Here is the pictures, Ive I reassembled these just like they came off and now they dont line up very well and they tend to loosen up after I set them with the correct lash and turn the spindle a few times by hand.  also I think Ive got the lead screw to tight because at the low tread counts we bind up and there is alot of flexing of the double 48tooth gears that mesh with the gearbox.
I think that maybe I have the wrong thickness of washers in the backs of these going to check my book, but not sure going to keep working at it.


----------



## schor (Mar 17, 2016)

I think that gear is the sliding gear, it should move to wither of the gears it meshes to. I'll get you some pictures later.


----------



## Bill Rosselot (Mar 17, 2016)

schor said:


> Which gears are not lining up? And what was the outcome for the crossfeed missing keyway?
> 
> Glad your getting is all together.


I found a miter gear with a key in it.  The old one must have been so worn that you could not tell if it had a key or not.


----------



## Bill Rosselot (Mar 17, 2016)

schor said:


> I think that gear is the sliding gear, it should move to wither of the gears it meshes to. I'll get you some pictures later.


ok cool  I think I need a washer behind the double 48tooth gears to bring them out some.


----------



## schor (Mar 17, 2016)

Here's some pictures. The gear slides, you can see the alignment is not great on this one either but I think I should be able to fix that by removing 1 washer. I just havn't got to taking this part apart yet.


----------



## Bill Rosselot (Mar 17, 2016)

Thanks
I will look at that


----------



## Rob (Mar 17, 2016)

I think you might have the pieces that the keyed bushing rides on backwards. The washer goes on the bolt first.


----------



## schor (Mar 17, 2016)

Rob said:


> I think you might have the pieces that the keyed bushing rides on backwards. The washer goes on the bolt first.



If your talking about my pics, I agree. The person I got this from must have done it wrong. I'll make it right.


----------



## wa5cab (Mar 18, 2016)

Steve S,

It's hard to tell in a photograph but you may be missing a washer behind the pair of gears.

The sliding gear is kept in position by a thin steel disk that should be between the two gears on the 32T/16T compound gear at the tumbler pivot point.  This was a modification of the Stud Gear used on the change gear 10" models.


----------



## schor (Mar 18, 2016)

wa5cab said:


> Steve S,
> 
> It's hard to tell in a photograph but you may be missing a washer behind the pair of gears.
> 
> The sliding gear is kept in position by a thin steel disk that should be between the two gears on the 32T/16T compound gear at the tumbler pivot point.  This was a modification of the Stud Gear used on the change gear 10" models.



Thanks for the tip Robert, will need to look at that.


----------



## schor (Mar 18, 2016)

You are correct Robert, there is a thin disk on the other part.


----------



## wa5cab (Mar 19, 2016)

OK.  It doesn't usually happen with people selling 10" QCGB's (unless the seller knows so little about the machines that he doesn't know that the tumbler assembly is a part of the conversion).  But failing to include the modified compound gear is quite common with the 12" versions.


----------

