# Losing my knobs...



## cdhknives (Jul 3, 2013)

The knob on my carriage traverse wheel is loose and falls out.  It sure would be nice to have that thing on a roller bearing, but right now it just slips out when I try and use it to quickly return the carriage for another cut!

Anyway, if I just peen the shank and re-press it back will it stay, or do I need to look at more extreme fixes?


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## Tony Wells (Jul 3, 2013)

If I am picturing your setup right, drill thru the handwheel and drill and tap the handle. Locktite the screw in. The drilled thru should be smaller than the stem hole diameter so there is a shoulder to near bottom out. Or if you want a tight, no spin fit, drill and tap, and Locktite the whole thing.


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## wa5cab (Jul 3, 2013)

If it's the handle on the carriage traverse handwheel on an Atlas lathe, it was originally a press fit.  If it isn't too loose, you could first try Locktite 272.  If that doesn't last very long, then do what Tony suggested.

Robert D.


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## kd4gij (Jul 3, 2013)

here you go
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Chromed-Handle-4-x-3-8-16/H3205


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## Tony Wells (Jul 3, 2013)

Many of those spinner knobs are pressed in solid and don't turn, and eventually get polished by dirty hands to be pretty smooth and shiny. Others are drilled thru and a shoulder screw is used to hold them to the wheel. The shoulder length is slightly more than the length of the knob and when tightened, still allow the knob to stay with your hand. I've used both, and accept either. No doubt you could adapt to either, but if you choose to drill thru your old knob, make sure to counterbore to allow the head of the shoulder screw to sit flush or below the end, or it will be a hand-pincher. Of course, if you wanted to retain the pointed end, that would require making it fit on top of the counterbore for the shoulder screw. Might be more trouble than it's worth. Just a thought.


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## Ray C (Jul 3, 2013)

I think you'll find a zillion ways to fix it but, allow me to toss this idea out there on a related issue...  I had an old lathe and the hand crank was not balanced -exacerbated by the weight of the protruding knob.  When in auto-feed and when the crank reached top-dead-center, it would suddenly plop as it went past TDC because the pinion gear was worn out and sloppy.  The momentum from the "plop" would make a visible mark in the workpiece that was being cut.  The solution was to put a counter balance on the crank (along with making a new pinion gear -which turned-out to be a nitemare because it's corresponding shaft and supporting housing was worn too).

Long story short, you might wish to consider putting a counter balance on there...  If my description was unclear, let me know and I'll try to clarify.

Ray


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## TOOLMASTER (Jul 3, 2013)

Just make some, you have a lathe ;-)


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## Tony Wells (Jul 3, 2013)

Ray, that's such a common problem I have never understood why they don't all come from the factory built like that. A few do, but not all. I have an ancient habit of resting my hand on the carriage wheel for finish cuts, and on some threading too, just because of that. I have run one lathe, of a make I forget, that you could pull the carriage wheel out and disengage it to eliminate that problem. Not a bad solution, but seems like it would have been better just to cast a little iron in the right place. Wouldn't take much.


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## Ray C (Jul 3, 2013)

At least they're still making the handles out of metal instead of lightweight plastic that wouldn't have that problem...  -Sheesh!




Tony Wells said:


> Ray, that's such a common problem I have never understood why they don't all come from the factory built like that. A few do, but not all. I have an ancient habit of resting my hand on the carriage wheel for finish cuts, and on some threading too, just because of that. I have run one lathe, of a make I forget, that you could pull the carriage wheel out and disengage it to eliminate that problem. Not a bad solution, but seems like it would have been better just to cast a little iron in the right place. Wouldn't take much.


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## Bill C. (Jul 3, 2013)

cdhknives said:


> The knob on my carriage traverse wheel is loose and falls out.  It sure would be nice to have that thing on a roller bearing, but right now it just slips out when I try and use it to quickly return the carriage for another cut!
> 
> Anyway, if I just peen the shank and re-press it back will it stay, or do I need to look at more extreme fixes?



Might try pricking the shank wiith a center punch in several places then press it in the hole. There is nothing like a handle coming off in your hand in the middle of a cut.  Good Luck


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## Bobby Bailey (Jul 7, 2013)

I had the same problem on my 6" Atlas. I applied Loctite green Bearing Retainer to it, tapped it back together and let it sit overnight. Has been holding for over 2 years. Cheap, easy, and works.
Bobby


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## jmankin (Oct 11, 2013)

Some of my knobs on the Atlas were also loose.  Cleaned them with brake cleaner, hit the parts with compressed air, applied lock-tite, and in12 hours they were as good as new.  If they ever fail, simply repeat the process.  No muss, no fuss, no pain and you don't have to deface the wheels.


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## caveBob (Oct 11, 2013)

Chrome Plated Revolving Handle for Cast Iron Handwheel, Ball End 3/8" x16 Thread - US $9.99
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Plat...ndwheel-Ball-End-3-8-x16-Thread-/111175928119

I really like the feel of this revolving handle, the price is very reasonable too:


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## pdentrem (Oct 11, 2013)

Mine was so loose I roughed it up and filled the space with epoxy. Still in place today at the new owners garage.
Pierre


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## cdhknives (Oct 11, 2013)

I took the advice here and used the red (permanent) Loctite and it is holding nicely.  Thanks!


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## jmankin (Nov 6, 2013)

Spray the parts with carb cleaner to remove any grease/oil residue.  Let dry a few minutes, then hit it with some "locktite', tomorrow it is as tight as can be.  If it comes out later, simply reapply.   Works like a charm on my Atlas 10F.:thinking:


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## jam (Nov 6, 2013)

cdhknives said:


> The knob on my carriage traverse wheel is loose and falls out.  It sure would be nice to have that thing on a roller bearing, but right now it just slips out when I try and use it to quickly return the carriage for another cut!
> 
> Anyway, if I just peen the shank and re-press it back will it stay, or do I need to look at more extreme fixes?



I am not a pro at all but this is what I do to fix that . 
#1 take the carriage wheel off 
#2 clean it good the wheel and the knob
#3 get you some Loctite 242 Thread locker
#4 drill a hole in the wheel and knob at the same point and get a split pin
#5 put the Loctite on  and put the pin in 
I did this on a band saw 5 or so years back and it is holding
 Today . And if it's a knob that don't  turn drill it out and use a wheel bolt  like one that you use 
on a  lawnmower wheel and you have a roller knob on your carriage
Make it work like to window crank in a car  the handle rotates 
if that what you won't


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