# Cleaning tooling



## DavidR8 (Mar 18, 2020)

I received my clamp set today. 
Based on amount of oil in the plastic bags that contained the various parts I’m well set for my truck’s next oil change. 

Of course this means the pieces are just dripping in oil. 

I’m tempted to give them a bath in a Simple Green solution but wonder if I’m setting them up to rust. 

What say you oh wise HM minds?


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## DAT510 (Mar 18, 2020)

I just wiped my off, and left the remain oil film there as rust protection.


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

I use WD-40 to clean pretty much all my tools, my machines included, as well as my other non machining related tools. Cleaning is just about the only thing I use WD-40 for. Some I'll just wipe off the excess WD-40 more, some I don't. For certain hand tools that I don't want an oily film on I follow up with denatured alcohol (doesn't specifically need to be DA, it's just what I use for cleaning a lot in the shop). No rust issues here so I don't need more rust preventative protection than that.


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## mikey (Mar 18, 2020)

darkzero said:


> I use WD-40 to clean pretty much all my tools, my machines included, as well as my other non machining related tools. Cleaning is just about the only thing I use WD-40 for. Some I'll just wipe off the excess WD-40 more, some I don't. For certain hand tools that I don't want an oily film on I follow up with denatured alcohol (doesn't specifically need to be DA, it's just what I use for cleaning a lot in the shop). No rust issues here so I don't need more rust preventative protection than that.


 
I do the same as Will except I have to oil everything afterwards because rust comes free with every home here, like it or not.


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)

After my last encounter with cast iron, it took a large can of WD to get stuff out, and in places it took some brakleen, then WD, then oil. GRRRR


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

mikey said:


> I do the same as Will except I have to oil everything afterwards because rust comes free with every home here, like it or not.



Mike, I didn't know whether to give you a LOL for the "rust comes free with every home" or a sad face for the "like it or not" part. 

Since you have to deal with rust, have you ever tried Boeshield T-9, Corrosion X, or that new rust preventer by WD-40 (Specialist line)?  My big fly cutter is made of 1045 & because of it's size it just sits on a shelf out in the open. Whenever it rains or gets real humid (luckily not often) it'll get a bit of surface rust on it. Of the 3 products, I believe the 2 latter leave an oily film which I don't want, otherwise I'd just coat it with oil. I believe the T-9 dries to a waxy film. I want to get a product that dries to a waxy film but is not a PITA to get off.


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## mikey (Mar 18, 2020)

darkzero said:


> Mike, I didn't know whether to give you a LOL for the "rust comes free with every home" or a sad face for the "like it or not" part.
> 
> Since you have to deal with rust, have you ever tried Boesshield T-9, Corrosion X, or that new rust preventer by WD-40 (Specialist line)?  My big fly cutter is made of 1045 & because of it's size it just sits on a shelf out in the open. Whenever it rains or gets real humid (luckily not often) it'll get a bit of surface rust on it. Of the 3 products, I believe the 2 latter leave an oily film which I don't want, otherwise I'd just coat it with oil. I believe the T-9 dries to a wazy film.



A sad face is more suitable, I think ... 

I have not tried any of those products. I mostly use Camellia Oil and Corrosion Block or just plain hydraulic oil. The latter does not work that well for rust prevention but the other two do. I'll keep your suggestions in mind, though - thank you, Will.


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)

We have a stadium here(on Oahu) that was designed by engineers to surface rust, and that was supposed to protect the metal from deep rusting. In a couple of years the "surface rust" was falling off in sheets, and cost millions to fix. So rust gets a mad face here....


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## mikey (Mar 18, 2020)

Aukai said:


> After my last encounter with cast iron, it took a large can of WD to get stuff out, and in places it took some brakleen, then WD, then oil. GRRRR


 
Toldja' ...


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)




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## mikey (Mar 18, 2020)

Aukai said:


> We have a stadium here(on Oahu) that was designed by engineers to surface rust, and that was supposed to protect the metal from deep rusting. In a couple of years the "surface rust" was falling off in sheets, and cost millions to fix. So rust gets a mad face here....



When I heard they City fell for that one I just shook my head. I'm just a hobby guy but even I know better than that.


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

mikey said:


> A sad face is more suitable, I think ...
> 
> I have not tried any of those products. I mostly use Camellia Oil and Corrosion Block or just plain hydraulic oil. The latter does not work that well for rust prevention but the other two do. I'll keep your suggestions in mind, though - thank you, Will.



I see ok. Sorry, I'm having posting issues, brain & eyes not working well tonight, had to edit my post. I was really trying to see if you had any experience with those products to give me feedback on.  

But if they served as suggestions for you all the better!


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## DavidR8 (Mar 18, 2020)

Camelia oil as in the flower?


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## DavidR8 (Mar 18, 2020)

(Btw the previous posts were hilarious!)


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

DavidR8 said:


> Camelia oil as in the flower?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I dunno but I had a dream about Camelia who had a flower in her hair & was oiled....err um n/m.


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)

My experience with Boeshild was it left a waxy residue, dryer than LPS 3 though.


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## mikey (Mar 18, 2020)

DavidR8 said:


> Camelia oil as in the flower?



No, as in the seeds. They supposedly used it to preserve Samurai swords. I figured if it can keep a fine sword free of rust then its good enough to treat my tools with.



darkzero said:


> I dunno but I had a dream about Camelia who had a flower in her hair & was oiled....err um n/m.



Cracked me up!! You've been eating them special brownies again, haven't you, Will ...


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

Aukai said:


> My experience with Boeshild was it left a waxy residue, dryer than LPS 3 though.



Like is it tacky & sticky or somewhat dry to the touch?


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## mikey (Mar 18, 2020)

Aukai said:


> My experience with Boeshild was it left a waxy residue, dryer than LPS 3 though.



Did it prevent rust, Mike? I have LPS3 and used it on some new square tubing I wanted to store. It worked on all but the top surface, which rusted like everything else here.


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

mikey said:


> Cracked me up!! You've been eating them special brownies again, haven't you, Will ...


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

Wait a darn tootin' minute, just had a flash back (not because of the brownies!).... BRB.


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)

It's been awhile, but I remember dry. It made my International reels look pretty bad, but the main corrosion on them was internal, so I stopped using it. I have used Corrosion-X but I stopped, and don't remember why.


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

darkzero said:


> Wait a darn tootin' minute, just had a flash back (not because of the brownies!).... BRB.



I'm an idiot. I have a bottle of T-9, it was hiding behind my Alum-Tap! Now I remember I bought that bottle at a gun show yrs ago. And here I've been debating whether to buy a spray can of it (stuff is expensive).

Well I guess I'll find out for myself, I'll try it out tomorrow. Thanks for this thread David that jogged my memory & sorry for the hijack.


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)

I do not recall on that Mike, you need to be heavy handed with the LPS 3, then use lacquer thinner to prep it for use later.


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)

The Boshield I used was aerosol, so I'm not sure of the equivalence to yours Will.


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## DavidR8 (Mar 18, 2020)

darkzero said:


> I'm an idiot. I have a bottle of T-9, it was hiding behind my Alum-Tap! Now I remember I bought that bottle at a gun show yrs ago. And here I've been debating whether to buy a spray can of it (stuff is expensive).
> 
> Well I guess I'll find out for myself, I'll try it out tomorrow. Thanks for this thread David that jogged my memory & sorry for the hijack.
> 
> View attachment 317179



Hijack #2
What kind of oil can is that in the photo?


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

I solemnly swear, my brownies did not have any pakalolo in them! I'm just having a bad day I guess.


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)

Halfheimers Will?


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

DavidR8 said:


> Hijack #2
> What kind of oil can is that in the photo?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Lol, you can't hijack your own thread! 

Which can were you asking about?


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)

The brown mechnaknical one next to the clear one, I think....


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## mikey (Mar 18, 2020)

darkzero said:


> I solemnly swear, my brownies did not have any pakalolo in them! I'm just having a bad day I guess.



Uh huh, you sure you're not hungry?


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)

Where's the Girl Scout cookies at Will????


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## mikey (Mar 18, 2020)

Aukai said:


> I do not recall on that Mike, you need to be heavy handed with the LPS 3, then use lacquer thinner to prep it for use later.



I thought I was pretty heavy with it but maybe I'll give it another go.

Nah, maybe not.


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)

I have used it on round column drill press shafts, but it gets so gummy I don't use it anymore.


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

mikey said:


> Uh huh, you sure you're not hungry?



You know, now that you mention it.... 



Aukai said:


> Where's the Girl Scout cookies at Will????



I don't know what happened, I must have ate em all. Or if it's the other kind you talking about ....


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## DavidR8 (Mar 18, 2020)

Aukai said:


> The brown mechnaknical one next to the clear one, I think....



Yup that one 


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

That one is the ever so popular Goldenrod. Some people love em, some people hate em cause they say they leak. I have 2 of them & neither of the cans leak at the seam.

The bigger one I keep Vactra #2 in. The smaller one is the case hardened trigger model that I keep Vactra #4 in. The spout on the bigger one is not available like that though, I bent it into shape like that myself.

One day I'll own me a coulpe of Reilangs when I feel like splurging on them but these have been working fine for me for yrs now.





Left & right are how they come from Goldenrod, middle is what I made.


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## mikey (Mar 18, 2020)

Pretty sure he's asking about the two oilers to the left of the Goldenrod's, Will. 

Reilang's Rule!


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

Oh here's a better pic. Mcmaster sells them as well as MSC. Unless you have a local MSC would probably be cheaper to buy them directly from Dutton-Lainson.


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## DavidR8 (Mar 18, 2020)

Thanks Will!


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

mikey said:


> Pretty sure he's asking about the two oilers to the left of the Goldenrod's, Will.
> 
> Reilang's Rule!



Oh, the clear ones. Funny story about those. I was looking for a high pressure oiler. So many vendors sell these & most all of them suck, the ones I tried anyway. Not sure who made the originals but I assume are no longer made. Well every one that I've had (metal ones) they all leaked like crazy.

Those clear ones are the ones HF used to sell & were the cheapest out of all the ones I tried, only $3 ea. They turned out to be far better than all the ones I've tried, all plastic but they work good & best of all they don't leak. I was afraid of the plastic can cracking but they have been holding up fine for yrs (older than my Goldenrods) & they're nice cause I can see how much oil is in them.

I use them for my ball oilers. They squirt with high pressure. One holds Vactra #2 & the other Velocite.


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)

I have the Reilang cans per Mikey...The pickup swivels in the can, not sure on the Goldenrod that is a good can too.









						200ml reilang oil can double pump Aluminium body | eBay
					

Find great deals for 200ml reilang oil can double pump Aluminium body. Shop with confidence on eBay!



					www.ebay.com


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

Aukai said:


> I have the Reilang cans per Mikey...The pickup swivels in the can, not sure on the Goldenrod that is a good can too.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Mcmaster stopped selling them so I never bought one. Most people buy from Jens. I found another source but still would come from Europe. One day I'll get a couple of the double pump ones but not high on my wish list.


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## mikey (Mar 18, 2020)

Dave, have a look at the Reilang oilers. They're like a Cadillac, while others are like Chevy's and Fords ... oops, sorry, Aukai!


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)

No sorry needed....


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## mikey (Mar 18, 2020)

You can tell that Aukai and I are working on Will's mind, right?

Will, ever have that special situation where you can't reach that oiling nipple without turning the can upside down? It's just too tight and if you could juuust tilt that can over it would work ... a Reilang will let you turn the can on its side or upside down and it will still pump and it won't leak on you. I mean, if you can spring for that automatic paint shaker then this should be a walk in the park!


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)

He has a paint shaker.....OMG


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

mikey said:


> Will, ever have that special situation where you can't reach that oiling nipple without turning the can upside down?



Nope.


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)

I did replace one of my seals with an O ring on 1 can but other than that flawless. I do have the red box assortment of O rings for such purposes....


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

Aukai said:


> He has a paint shaker.....OMG



Yup, I also have me a bergie too!


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)




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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)

Not listening, but you heard.LOL


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

True, I've had the Reilangs in my cart for yrs now but still haven't pulled the trigger. So by now it's not high on my list. I have plenty of other things I'm more interested in buying first.


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)

I had to look that contraption up  ...


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

It's a turret drill press, auto rotates to the next spindle when you retract the quill handle. Made right here in SoCal. They're very sought after & I got it for a good price. One of those machines that got replaced by CNC. I still haven't used it though haha but I'm happy to own it.


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## mikey (Mar 18, 2020)

Dave, I am truly sorry for being part of the cause for this thread seriously degenerating. We have gone from cleaning tools to oily girls to mind altering substances and then, and then, to a turret drilling thing that is supposed to be highly sought after but nobody seems to know existed.  

Buncha' juveniles here, I tell you!


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

mikey said:


> Dave, I am truly sorry for being part of the cause for this thread seriously degenerating. We have gone from cleaning tools to oily girls to mind altering substances and then, and then, to a turret drilling thing that is supposed to be highly sought after but nobody seems to know existed.
> 
> Buncha' juveniles here, I tell you!


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## Aukai (Mar 18, 2020)

We got a contraption education, and even found out it's desirable, but nothing more about Camellia with a flower in her hair. You related to Sheldon?


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## tech610 (Mar 18, 2020)

darkzero said:


> I use WD-40 to clean pretty much all my tools,


WD40 also kerosene or diesel fuel. For rust protection I use the Fluid Film.


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## deakin (Mar 18, 2020)

mikey said:


> When I heard they City fell for that one I just shook my head. I'm just a hobby guy but even I know better than that.



maybe the contractor substituted a different material. my cousin's spouse, the iron worker, says they've been using this type of steel for a long time in the rust belt. building bridges here with it as we speak









						Weathering steel - Wikipedia
					






					en.wikipedia.org


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## mikey (Mar 18, 2020)

deakin said:


> maybe the contractor substituted a different material. my cousin's spouse, the iron worker, says they've been using this type of steel for a long time in the rust belt. building bridges here with it as we speak
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yeah, it was supposed to be that weathering steel stuff, I think. Regardless, they wound up sandblasting it and painting it. Might have something to do with the fact that the stadium is very close to the ocean and is covered with salt when the wind is right.


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## DavidR8 (Mar 18, 2020)

mikey said:


> Yeah, it was supposed to be that weathering steel stuff, I think. Regardless, they wound up sandblasting it and painting it. Might have something to do with the fact that the stadium is very close to the ocean and is covered with salt when the wind is right.


In fact I think the stadium you mention @mikey is referenced in the wikipedia article


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## mikey (Mar 18, 2020)

DavidR8 said:


> In fact I think the stadium you mention @mikey is referenced in the wikipedia article



Yeah, I missed that reference but you're right, Dave. FAIL!!!


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## Z2V (Mar 18, 2020)

Back around to the  Boeshield T-9 aerosol, I us it on just about everything in the garage. I spray a light coat on bare metal surfaces when it’s raining or high humidity. It leaves a light waxy residue that wipes right off. Very pleased with it. I think I have five cans scattered around the garage.


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## Bob Korves (Mar 18, 2020)

1 part anhydrous lanolin, melted, cut with 5 parts mineral spirits away from the heat source, and then 1 part ATF added and mixed well.  Keep in a closed container so the mineral spirits do not evaporate away in storage.  Wet coat the metal with a brush or similar -- thin, invisible, and dry to the touch when it dries, zero problems with rust after application.  Great for higher end and precision tools, as well as more ordinary tools. but I have not (and will not) try it on micrometers and similar.  Change the proportions to meet your needs for other applications.  Relatively inexpensive.  Get the lanolin on eBay.


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## MrWhoopee (Mar 18, 2020)

Aukai said:


> We have a stadium here(on Oahu) that was designed by engineers to surface rust, and that was supposed to protect the metal from deep rusting. In a couple of years the "surface rust" was falling off in sheets, and cost millions to fix. So rust gets a mad face here....




It's called Core-ten steel. I've seen it used architecturally and on large high voltage power poles.  Also used on bridges and marine shipping containers.








						Weathering steel - Wikipedia
					






					en.wikipedia.org
				




I read this part way down the page: "  Weathering steel is sensitive to humid subtropical climates, and in such environments, it is possible that the protective patina may not stabilize but instead continue to corrode. For example, the former Omni Coliseum, built in 1972 in Atlanta, never stopped rusting, and eventually large holes appeared in the structure. This was a major factor in the decision to demolish it just 25 years after construction. The same thing can happen in environments laden with sea salt. Hawaii's Aloha Stadium, built in 1975, is one example of this. "


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## Superburban (Mar 18, 2020)

I have several triangular pyramid shaped wind chimes, made of Core-ten. They were unpainted in the store, and I would not have bought them, until I read of them rusting to form a protective coating. They did as advertised, formed a nice brown patina, and have stayed that way for about 30 years now.


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## mikey (Mar 18, 2020)

Yeah, Hawaiian salt will eat anything, even Core-ten steel. Our patina is called holes ...


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## darkzero (Mar 18, 2020)

mikey said:


> Hawaiian salt



My friend wanted to buy a bag of Hawaiian sea salt. Picked up some brand off the shelf & it said made in Texas! Reminded me of the old Pace Picante sauce commercials.


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