# Bench Grinding Wheels



## jschmidling (Aug 15, 2019)

I bought a low end 6" bench grinder and can't believe the poor quality of the wheels that came with it.  They not only were impossible to get even one in balance but they actually rode directly on the motor shaft.  No bushing or collar, just AO on steel.

I then purchased what I thought was a quality product from a known brand (Norton) and it has worse problems than the Chinese junk.

It has a one inch bore with the usual adapters so that's no problem.

When I mount it on the grinder and turn it by hand, it is round and true.  Hardly needing any dressing at all.

All hell breaks loose when I try to run the grinder.

When it comes to a stop, it swings like a pendulum to the same position, no matter how I mount or rotate it or where I position it by hand.  It acts like a large sector is made from styrafoam.  It is totally useless.

Where does one get decent grinding wheels these day.

Jack


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## RobertB (Aug 15, 2019)

I have not had issues with Norton wheels themselves, but sometimes the supplied plastic bushings suck. I have had them too loose in the wheel, too loose on the shaft, and both at the same time. have also had them fit snug but not concentric. Made new bushings and wheels ran smooth.


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## gwade (Aug 15, 2019)

Have you checked the run-out on the shaft to make sure that's not the problem?


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## tmenyc (Aug 15, 2019)

I just went through this similar cycle (https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/grinder-problem.78944/#post-675631), with a Dewalt 756 and Norton wheels.  Ended up buying the Raptor aluminum hubs and nuts (https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/97/6196/raptor-R3X-Grinding-Wheel-Bushing-2-Piece-Set) and trashing what came with the grinder and wheels (which were NOT the wheels that came with the grinder), and setting up the grinder outside and dressing it until the vibration disappeared.  Took awhile.  Definitely need a mask and goggles though because it looked like a cyclone blowing through with all the dust.  
Tim


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## benmychree (Aug 15, 2019)

Is the grinder in balance itself?  I was given a HF grinder, a real POS; everything wiggled and wobbled, I made new inside and outside washers, changed to USA wheels, dressed the wheels true, and it still vibrates partially due to the motor being out of balance; that combined with work rests and the wheel guards that are made out of material not much stronger than a tin can, have me nearly ready to junk the damned thing.


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## Nutfarmer (Aug 15, 2019)

Sounds like the same grinder i purchased from HF. If I counted my time patching up the piece of junk it would have been better to spend more on a better grinder. Probably put 6  hours into just making it run with out walking all over the shop.


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## rzw0wr (Aug 15, 2019)

I just bought a Rykon form Amazon I think it was.
$240 and it is a great grinder for the price.


I think this is the one I have.







						RIKON Power Tools 80-808 8" 1 hp Low Speed 1725 RPM Bench Grinder - - Amazon.com
					

RIKON Power Tools 80-808 8" 1 hp Low Speed 1725 RPM Bench Grinder - - Amazon.com



					www.amazon.com


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## StevSmar (Aug 15, 2019)

tmenyc said:


> ...Ended up buying the Raptor aluminum hubs and nuts...


That looks like a great first project!


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## jschmidling (Aug 16, 2019)

gwade said:


> Have you checked the run-out on the shaft to make sure that's not the problem?



There is no problem with the motor.  It just hums away with no vibration at all and there is no detectable runout on either end.

I made a bushing for the Norton wheel that is a near press fit on shaft and bore.  I insert a 1/2" rod and set it on two tracks and it swings down to that mysterious place that does not correspond with the eccentricity of the wheel which is very slight.

This brings up a question I have on dressing a wheel.

In my past experience with pre-Chinese grinders, a wheel was dressed when the surface was no longer flat and clean, not to make an eccentric wheel round.  I could buy a new wheel, put it on the grinder and use it without shaking the foundation.

On a surface grinder, we ran a diamond back and forth to true it up but that was a different ball game from hand grinding tool bits.

All I ever owned or needed was a handheld dresser with those little carbide wheels to keep my grinders in order.

Now the junk wheels out there need to be made round and it does not seem one could do this with a hand held dresser because it would just follow the shape of the wheel and never correct the eccentricity.

What is the proper tool/method of correcting a wheel on a bench grinder?

Jack


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## mikey (Aug 16, 2019)

I have an old Craftsman 6" grinder that runs so smooth that its hard to tell that its running. I know that if I take the Norton wheels off, I will never get them back to the location they are in now so I don't move them. I remember when I installed them years ago that I had to dress them smooth but I don't remember them being so out of round that they were all that imbalanced. In any case, I use a T-type diamond dresser and it gets them nice, flat and round. Seems to work fine and that thing cuts fast! If you use one, be sure to work outside and wear eye protection and a good mask or respirator. 

I recently decided to buy some compressed paper wheels (looks suspiciously like MDF to me) to sharpen knives with. I'll report on it when I have time. In any case, rather than disturb the wheels on my Craftsman grinder, I bought a new Jet 1/2HP bench grinder to use those wheels on and that thing is as smooth as silk without the wheels. I installed the paper wheels and they fit tight on the shaft and ran with only a slight vibration. I clocked one wheel at a time, loosening the retaining nut and rotating the wheel 1/4 turn at a time until it ran smooth. Then I installed the other wheel and did the same thing. Now it runs as smooth as I could want. 

My suggestion is to buy that T-shaped dresser and work on one wheel at a time until you get it running smooth and balanced, then do the same for the other one.


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## Janderso (Aug 16, 2019)

I bought a heavy 3/4 hp 8” bench grinder from Grainger. One side has the extended shaft for a buffing wheel, no guard, the other standard shrouded grinder with pedestal.
The wheel that came with it went in the garbage. I bought a Norton wheel, trued it up and now runs very smooth.
I haven’t been too impressed with Norton lately.
It seems they have the market cornered at MSC, Travers, Grainger etc.
Rodiac wheels are hard to find. In my experience


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## Tozguy (Aug 16, 2019)

jschmidling said:


> I made a bushing for the Norton wheel that is a near press fit on shaft and bore. I insert a 1/2" rod and set it on two tracks and it swings down to that mysterious place that does not correspond with the eccentricity of the wheel which is very slight.


There is only so much that can be done with cheap wheels. However on all wheels the center hole is not meant to be concentric and the wheel should not be a tight fit on the shaft. The proper way to mount a wheel is shown here:



This allows the wheel to be offset somewhat on the shaft to get the least runout on the circumference of the wheel.
With that set then dress the outside to remove any residual runout. After this If there is still an unacceptable imbalance in the set up then I would scrap the wheel.


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## Tozguy (Aug 16, 2019)

jschmidling said:


> All I ever owned or needed was a handheld dresser with those little carbide wheels to keep my grinders in order.


I never had much luck with those dressers either. The T shaped diamond dresser that Mikey mentions is what works best for me too.


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## royesses (Aug 16, 2019)

This is what I use:



I set the diamond to cut about a thousandth or two at a pass. gets the wheel true and leaves a very nice surface. There are commercial versions that are pricey. Amazon sells them. This is one that I made. This photo is before I added and milled a UHMW plastic plate to the bottom to slide easily on the tool rest.

Roy


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## jschmidling (Aug 16, 2019)

Tozguy said:


> There is only so much that can be done with cheap wheels. However on all wheels the center hole is not meant to be concentric and the wheel should not be a tight fit on the shaft.



This is not only counter-intuitive but seems to contradict basic geometry.

By definition, the edge of a dressed wheel is both coaxial and concentric with the hole in the center.

If it is not concentric, we must remove material from the edge to make it so.

Why not start out with the hole in the middle?

If the hole is in the middle, why would you want a sloppy fit which forces us to futz around to get it in the middle?

With a snug fit, a properly dressed wheel can be moved to a different grinder and get the same results (within the run out error of the shaft) which should be good enough for most bench work.

What am I missing? 

Your drawing is exactly the way even the cheapest bench grinders come from China.

Jack


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## jschmidling (Aug 16, 2019)

Tozguy said:


> I never had much luck with those dressers either. The T shaped diamond dresser that Mikey mentions is what works best for me too.



I have one of those but it suffers from the same problem, i.e. hand holding it will never make the wheel round.  It just follows the contour.

How do you position it to just kiss the high places?  The photo posted by Roy makes sense because it is used with a controlled tool rest.  I assume the diamond is at the end of the pointed screw.

Jack


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## pstemari (Aug 16, 2019)

You don't need to jam it into the wheel with a lot of force. Rest the T dresser or a dressing stick on the tool rest and then just barely kiss the wheel.

Wear a respirator mask, and use dust collection while doing this. It makes a huge mess and I don't trust abrasive dust in my lungs in the slightest. *Supposedly* aluminum oxide is not as dangerous as crystalline silica or asbestos, but I have my doubts. There's not much your body can do with little sharp bits of mineral once they get deep in your lungs other than embed them in scar tissue

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## royesses (Aug 16, 2019)

jschmidling said:


> I have one of those but it suffers from the same problem, i.e. hand holding it will never make the wheel round.  It just follows the contour.
> 
> How do you position it to just kiss the high places?  The photo posted by Roy makes sense because it is used with a controlled tool rest.  I assume the diamond is at the end of the pointed screw.
> 
> Jack


Yes the diamond is at the end of the pointed screw. The shaft and diamond come as one piece. I threaded it 3/8" 24 TPI.

Roy


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## jschmidling (Aug 17, 2019)

royesses said:


> Yes the diamond is at the end of the pointed screw. The shaft and diamond come as one piece. I threaded it 3/8" 24 TPI.
> 
> Roy


I bought one of those but never quite figured out how to use it on a bench grinder.

I looked at it just now under the microscope and there does not seem to be a diamond in it.  Applying it gently to the wheel just ground a flat on the end.   I know there was one in there originally as I did some dressing with it.  Apparently, I destroyed it.  I guess your mil at a pass is about all it can take.  No easy way to do that other than what you did.  I suspect these things are meant for surface grinders.

Thanks for the idea,

Jack


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## royesses (Aug 17, 2019)

jschmidling said:


> I bought one of those but never quite figured out how to use it on a bench grinder.
> 
> I looked at it just now under the microscope and there does not seem to be a diamond in it.  Applying it gently to the wheel just ground a flat on the end.   I know there was one in there originally as I did some dressing with it.  Apparently, I destroyed it.  I guess your mil at a pass is about all it can take.  No easy way to do that other than what you did.
> 
> ...


Yes Jack you are correct. You can only take a couple of thousandths at a pass. Initially it can take some time to get the wheel trued. But then when it is trued it does not take many passes to keep it trued.  Also it is good to eliminate as much side to side wobble as possible. I do that using adhesive dots ( like the small round price stickers used at some stores) between the wheel and flange washers. Even after turning new flange washers on the lathe there is still some wobble.  I've made new washers and wheel bushings for both my 8" grinders on the lathe, trued them and corrected for wobble. I can stand a nickle on edge on the motors while running and it wont move. This makes sharpening tools so much better and you can see the difference in the sharpened edge.

Roy


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## C-Bag (Aug 17, 2019)

In all my career in the many shops I worked in I'd never experienced the cluster I went through when I had to replace my old HF 8" bench grinder I got for Christmas in the 80's. Even it didn't shake like the 8"  Ryobi. The replacement Norton wheels were no better and even after making new hubs I could get the wobble out, but not make them concentric. Seems as though they don't care about that anymore. And even if they are concentric they are not balanced. The tool rests on most grinders are junk so it makes it impossible to use a dresser to true the wheel when out of round and balance in my experience. 

After watching a YouTube on balancing the wheel on a Tormac SG and how they have a hub that uses bolts as balancing weights I though why doesn't somebody make that for bench grinders? Did a search and they do, it's called the Oneway. It's $80 and it's nicely made and I was able balance both wheels, then dress them true and tweek the balance again and the grinder runs smooth.


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## epanzella (Aug 17, 2019)

benmychree said:


> Is the grinder in balance itself?  I was given a HF grinder, a real POS; everything wiggled and wobbled, I made new inside and outside washers, changed to USA wheels, dressed the wheels true, and it still vibrates partially due to the motor being out of balance; that combined with work rests and the wheel guards that are made out of material not much stronger than a tin can, have me nearly ready to junk the damned thing.


I also have a Harbor Freight 8 inch grinder. Did all the same things you did with all the same results. Unfortunately, I paid for mine. It doesn't seem to have a start winding so it takes forever to spool up and it vibrates so much the light has a very short life. I have my green wheel and wire brush on it. I only use that machine to sharpen my tungstens and the few brazed carbide tools that I have . I use insert carbide mostly.  The wire wheel doesn't care about vibration.  I get annoyed every time I use it but it works so I haven't tossed it. (yet)


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## Tozguy (Aug 18, 2019)

jschmidling said:


> What am I missing?



The hole in the middle of a grind wheel is meant to pass the shaft easily. It obviously has to be located in or near the center of the wheel but there is no need for the level of concentricity required for something like the bore of a gear or V-belt pulley. Please note that I am only referring to general purpose wheels for bench grinders. Any bushing required is to keep the wheel located in the ballpark and allow you to respect proper mounting procedure. 

When mounting a wheel, the clearance around the shaft allows me to dial in the grinding surface for a minimum of run out. This should provide the best balance prior to dressing as well as the least amount of dressing.

I understand if you want a way to swap out wheels regularly with a minimum of fuss. However, my approach is to have more than one grinder so that the wheel I need to use is only a flick of a switch away.


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## jschmidling (Aug 18, 2019)

Tozguy said:


> .
> 
> When mounting a wheel, the clearance around the shaft allows me to dial in the grinding surface for a minimum of run out. This should provide the best balance prior to dressing as well as the least amount of dressing.



I don't understand how or why you would balance a wheel that is not round or concentric.  When you correct the eccentricity, you also change the balance.  The slop in the shaft is a bit of fudge waiting to get you.

>"I understand if you want a way to swap out wheels regularly with a minimum of fuss. However, my approach is to have more than one grinder so that the wheel I need to use is only a flick of a switch away.

I have 3 grinders with capacity of 5 wheels.  At the moment only one wheel works on one grinder.  I made the big mistake of trying to improve one that was working.

js


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## C-Bag (Aug 18, 2019)

Some of the whole process is counter intuitive. As I found out after run after run at my cluster. I checked the motor for balance, runout on the shafts and eliminated those. I didn't have play in the shaft fit with the plastic bushings I got with the Nortons. I made an arbor to mount the wheel in the mill and used a diamond nib to true the wheels. But they were still out of balance. So even with hubs I made they ran true but we're out of balance. 

The Oneway setup fixed that with a little bit of mod like soaking the bearings for the balancing jig so they had less friction from the grease. The balancing jig also came in handy when I got a Baldor tool grinder clone off CL. One side of that grinder even though the shaft showed no runout the wheel wobbled. Thanks to Janderso who posted a YouTube about a real Baldor that had that prob and the guy made a tool to true the hub on the machine, I was able to fix the wobble and use the Oneway balance jig to get the green wheel and diamond wheels both balanced and trued.


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## jschmidling (Aug 18, 2019)

It seems like what ever they use to mix the mud in is a serious expense item so they spend as little time mixing as possible.  The obvious explanation for imbalance of a concentric wheel is that the mud in the wheel is not homogenized.  Meaning that the mass varies in different sectors of the wheel and nothing will prevent vibration until this is balanced out with outboard weights as in balancing car tires/wheels.

As mentioned before, using a press fit bushing and a press fit 1/2" axle, rolling over a track, any pendulum tendency should be caused by eccentricity if the material of the wheel is homogeneous.

It's sad to say that this conversation would never have taken place 40 years ago.  One bought a grinder, wheels and spent 5 minutes dressing if necessary and used it.  When the wheel got too small 10 years later, you bought a new wheel dressed it and went on doing useful stuff.

Thanks China.... Go Trump!

js


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## royesses (Aug 18, 2019)

jschmidling said:


> It seems like what ever they use to mix the mud in is a serious expense item so they spend as little time mixing as possible.  The obvious explanation for imbalance of a concentric wheel is that the mud in the wheel is not homogenized.  Meaning that the mass varies in different sectors of the wheel and nothing will prevent vibration until this is balanced out with outboard weights as in balancing car tires/wheels.
> 
> As mentioned before, using a press fit bushing and a press fit 1/2" axle, rolling over a track, any pendulum tendency should be caused by eccentricity if the material of the wheel is homogeneous.
> 
> ...


Agree with what you said. The wheels I use are Camel Brand, made in Israel. They have been great so far. Truing with the diamond has them spinning without vibration along with making flanges and bushings and adjusting for minimal wobble. I gave up trying to get Chinese grinding wheels to run true without excessive vibration.

Roy


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## jschmidling (Aug 27, 2019)

royesses said:


> Agree with what you said. The wheels I use are Camel Brand, made in Israel.



Always interested in what works for others but they do not seem to offer a 6" bench grinder wheel.

On another tack, I had an interesting experience with one of the wheels that came with the WEN grinder.

I made a center punch out of an old 3/8" drill bit and the wheel rapidly took the shape of punch.  By the time I finished, it had about a 30 deg list on the face and there was an impressive pile of gray dust on the floor.

I have an old brass hammer that I wanted to reshape the head a bit and by the time I finished that, the wheel was "dressed" back to flat and square.

Can you imagine what kind of junk that wheel was made from if it could be dressed with a piece of brass?

I remember when the Japanese taught us about QC and now we have the Chinese teaching us how to get away with selling trash and keep important customers happy with a very high level of quality.

js


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## royesses (Aug 27, 2019)

Here is a link to Camel grinding wheels:





						Bench and Pedestal Grinding Wheels | CGW
					

CGW Bench and pedestal grinding Wheels for General purpose to use on bench grinder and pedestal grinder are available in diameters up to 18'' (450mm) diameter




					www.cgwheels.com
				




Roy


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## nnam (Aug 28, 2019)

jschmidling said:


> I have an old brass hammer that I wanted to reshape the head a bit and by the time I finished that, the wheel was "dressed" back to flat and square.



My 6" harbor freight grinder was noisy and jumpy.  I just didn't do anything to it, just because it's a cheapo.  Then one day, it starts to take for ever to slowdown when shut off.  It is quieter and no walkie, jumpy.
I then learned that this thing work well if I treated it well.  I should have dress it and try to true it up.

The funny thing is I have other grinders, one good name, one decent name, one 3 phase.  But I don't use any of them.  One needs new bearings or rebuilt.  One is just heavy and the shafts was bent by previous owner (I didn't know much when bought that, thinking of decent brand).  The other is 3 phase and very heavy.  The harbor freight is light.  I grab it outside, point a fan on me and off I go.


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## C-Bag (Aug 28, 2019)

I suspect it's a function of age, but I've given up getting too invested in griping about change and work the solutions. I don't like that some suit decided they could make a couple more $$ if they moved their operation overseas and if quality dropped it didn't matter because everybody was doing it, so there was little choice. It just opened up others to find a way to make a solution. And blaming the makers because they were directed by the suits to make something cheaper is counter productive IMHO. Kinda blaming the victim. I learned early on the name brands had sold out too, just didn't tell anybody but are still charging for that "brand". Meanwhile the shop full of knockoffs I've gotten used just needed those QC probs fixed and I ended up with a double discount. Git er done.


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## stioc (Aug 28, 2019)

Sooo...what's the consensus? Are there any decent cup wheels available for the standard 6" grinder? I'm interested in both 
the white alum oxide and the green carbide ones.


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## pontiac428 (Aug 28, 2019)

stioc said:


> Sooo...what's the consensus? Are there any decent cup wheels available for the standard 6" grinder? I'm interested in both
> the white alum oxide and the green carbide ones.


You probably won't be finding any toolroom grinding wheels, cup wheels, or flaring cups in 6" with a little bench grinder arbor hole.  You can definitely get normal bench grinder wheels in any size or grade of abrasive you want.  I recently started using a Norton 32AA 60-grit "purple" stone for roughing, it really runs cool while removing a ton of material.  Works great on cobalt and other hard tool steels, but I still use chinese diamonds for carbide so I haven't tried it on that.


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## stioc (Aug 29, 2019)

pontiac428 said:


> You probably won't be finding any toolroom grinding wheels, cup wheels, or flaring cups in 6" with a little bench grinder arbor hole.  You can definitely get normal bench grinder wheels in any size or grade of abrasive you want.  I recently started using a Norton 32AA 60-grit "purple" stone for roughing, it really runs cool while removing a ton of material.  Works great on cobalt and other hard tool steels, but I still use chinese diamonds for carbide so I haven't tried it on that.



I guess I'll have to make flanges to mount the cup wheels to my 6" grinder once my grinding rest project is finished.

Which diamond wheels do you use?


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## pontiac428 (Aug 29, 2019)

stioc said:


> I guess I'll have to make flanges to mount the cup wheels to my 6" grinder once my grinding rest project is finished.
> 
> Which diamond wheels do you use?


That would be the ticket.  Then you could use common 4" or 5" cup wheels and set it up like a Rockwell carbide grinder with your new rest.  Size selection should be based on surface speed from spindle RPM.

I have been using cheap china diamond wheels, the kind that cost $12.  Stefan Gotteswinter dropped the tip that those wheels take abuse well (e.g. using on M2 HSS), so I treat them accordingly.  The surface is much tighter than aluminum oxide, so they work well on small or fine tools.  Although for lathe bits and general purpose work, it's hard to beat a 60-grit 38A white wheel.

Will you be building a drill bit attachment for your new tool grinder setup?


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## stioc (Aug 29, 2019)

yeah that'd be awesome...for now though it's tools, to make tools, to make  ore tools...eventually all these tools will be used to make parts! lol

Is this the type of diamond wheel you're referring to?





						Amazon.com: 3'' Electroplated Diamond Grinding Wheel Cup 1/2'' Bore Grit 150 Cutter Grinder Tool For Grinding Hard Alloy Cutter,Glass, Tiles and Ceramics: Home Improvement
					

Buy 3'' Electroplated Diamond Grinding Wheel Cup 1/2'' Bore Grit 150 Cutter Grinder Tool For Grinding Hard Alloy Cutter, Glass, Tiles and Ceramics: Cut-Off Wheels - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



					www.amazon.com
				




I don't think I'll be building a drill bit attachment since I have a Drill Doctor 750X and it does well for the ends...for the sides may be I can use my Phase 2 endmill sharpner...not sure yet.


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## pontiac428 (Aug 29, 2019)

More this type





						Diamond Grinding Wheel
					

<!--<ul><li>Grit: 320</li><li>Diameter: 4''</li><li>Height: 1-1/4''</li><li>Arbor Hole Diameter: 3/4"</li></ul>-->




					www.shars.com
				



They can be had on eBay for much less, but this is the one I've been abusing for months.

I love my Drill Doctor.  Hard to beat the efficiency and grind geometry.


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## stioc (Aug 29, 2019)

Ah ok, those ones. I haven't seen those in 1/2" arbor but I'm sure I just have to look harder. Thanks @pontiac428


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## pontiac428 (Aug 29, 2019)

I think you'll need to make a 1-1/4" to 1/2" arbor adapter no matter what.  Preferably one that stays mounted with the wheel, so one adapter for each wheel you run.


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## stioc (Aug 29, 2019)

pontiac428 said:


> I think you'll need to make a 1-1/4" to 1/2" arbor adapter no matter what.  Preferably one that stays mounted with the wheel, so one adapter for each wheel you run.


Have you built one? there's a design in Harold's book but I think he modified the actual shaft of the grinder to provide a step. Not sure that needs to be there? I see someone out of eastern europe selling the adapters on ebay too. That's kind of what I had in mind but not sure if his is two pieces that clamp the wheel together or just one https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bench-Grin...mm-to-31-7mm-for-grinding-wheel-/132378937222

Edit: Also found this one that looks like will also work https://www.shars.com/grinding-wheel-adapter-for-1-1-4-arbor-hole


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## pontiac428 (Aug 29, 2019)

No, I haven't made one because I can get Deckel adapters off the shelf for $30 apiece.  The Shars adapter won't work for you since it has an internal taper for the Deckel spindle, but that's the basic concept.  You make a "hat" with a 1/2" bore for your grinder spindle on the inside and a 1-1/4" OD with threads for a nut.  The nut has internal threads only.  You cinch the nut onto the hat with the grinding wheel sandwiched between, then slip it over your grinder spindle.  You can use internal threads on the 1/2" bore in place of a spindle nut, so the "hat" effectively replaces the spindle nut.  Recessing the bore will have to be done to suit your grinder's spindle and nut configuration, but the basic idea is really easy.  The arbor adapter could even be made of plastic or hardwood; it doesn't carry much load, since the load should be applied perpendicular to the spindle in theory.


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## pontiac428 (Aug 29, 2019)

Here's a picture of a "hat"
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





And a picture of a variation on the theme, this being an inverted setup:


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## stioc (Aug 29, 2019)

Thanks for the info and the pic (second one didn't work). Looks like a 30 min project on the lathe but! with the sandwich design the width of the flange would depend on the thickness of the wheel. So a cup wheel vs. a disk wheel will prob require different flange widths.


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## pontiac428 (Aug 29, 2019)

Most 4" wheels are 1/2" thick.  A quick browse through a catalog will give you that dimension.  Or you can use spacers so you don't have to worry about every wheel you buy fitting perfectly.

Edit:  this adapter is shown with two different spacers for wheel thickness:


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## stioc (Aug 29, 2019)

Awesome, I think that'll work! thanks!


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