# Atlas Pick-O-Matic Drive Gear 10-1213



## Blue (Apr 15, 2022)

Does anyone know the specs on the Atlas Pick-O-Matic drive gear 10-1213?  (Or where I can find one?)







At some point in its life, someone removed the drive gear, leadscrew and all change gears from my newly acquired TH48.  Otherwise, everything else appears to be entirely in tact.  I am assuming that I will likely need to make one, or find an off-the-shelf gear and adapt it to accept the keyed leadscrew properly.  If I do need to make one, having the dimensions/sketch with the dimensions, tooth count, etc. would be extremely helpful. 

Holding off on getting a replacement leadscrew until this mystery is solved. Especially since the manual suggests that the head-end of the leadscrew needs to be cut off at the shoulder.

Thanks,
Blue


Mods/Admins - I originally posted this here: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/atlas-pick-o-matic-drive-gear.99322/  Please delete as appropriate.

NOTE to Blue - As there was only one reply and as deleting the thread would have deleted post-counts from you and responder, I elected to edit thread title with re-direct instead of deleting thread.  

Robert D/WA5CAB  Moderator


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## shadetreedad (Apr 15, 2022)

Blue,

I have a spare Pick-O-Matic gearbox. Over the weekend I could take it apart for dimensions. And/or send the gear to you for a pattern. Then when you're done you could send it back. Pretty sure that is the only gear in the gearbox that is made of ZAMAK.

Mike


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## Blue (Apr 15, 2022)

Thanks Mike!  Still trying to wrap my head around "spare Pick-O-Matic gearbox"!   Based on my limited research, is seems like the Pick-O-Matic sort of a stop-gap between nothing and a real gearbox(?)

Any idea why the drive gear would be ZAMAK?  I assume it is to intentionally be the weakest link to self-destruct in case something really jams up? If so, a 3D printed gear might actually be ideal for the replacement

We can start with a sketch/dimensions (and maybe pictures?) and see if I can do something with that.  With the dimensions, I can sketch it up in 3D Cad and print one, especially if it is intended to be sacrificial.  If that does not work out, then I'll take you up on your offer to borrow the spare.  

Sounds like I can get going on acquiring a leadscrew..

Thanks again!
~Blue


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## shadetreedad (Apr 15, 2022)

Blue,

Yea, it was sort of a stop-gap box. They were made from 1943 into 1946. I really like mine. Normally I run gearing through a banjo with the final leadscrew gearing ~ A= 0.004, B= 0.008, C=0.002. With this setup there is always a “perfect” speed. The only time I change gears is for threading. I don’t think the ZAMAK gear is for a weakest/sacrificial link as the ZAMAK leadscrew support bearing on the right end of the lathe is actually for that purpose. With that said however, what typically fails on those gears is the built-in keyway. It will eventually round off. On mine, I added an aluminum adapter between the gear and leadscrew with a shear pin so it will fail before either end has a chance to break.

And my guess is a 3D printed gear would work very well.

Anyway, I'll have those dimensions/pictures to you early next week.



Mike


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## benmychree (Apr 15, 2022)

Sacrificial lead screw support? been there, done that back in the early 60s on a friend's father's lathe, got a part and fixed it, no hard feelings.


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## Blue (Apr 15, 2022)

shadetreedad said:


> Anyway, I'll have those dimensions/pictures to you early next week.



Thanks Mike!  That will be much appreciated!  I will likely need more advice and info on the Pick-O-Matic.  I know I do not have the change gears and had already planned on printing the set, but as I look closer, it appears that there may be a few more things missing besides the gears (like the drive gear)...  The 3 posts are there, but no in/out gear or knob.  Looking at the exploded parts diagram, it would appear that I need bushings, screws, hold-down bracket, the knob, etc. All should be relatively to buy or make, but lack of dimensions might be a challenge.  At least they left the complete tumbler assembly intact.  I will work on posting a few pictures in the next day or two.

@benmychree - Over time, I have found a few things to be sacrificial... that probably should _not _have been. Glad you were able to replace and fix it!


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## benmychree (Apr 15, 2022)

Blue said:


> Thanks Mike!  That will be much appreciated!  I will likely need more advice and info on the Pick-O-Matic.  I know I do not have the change gears and had already planned on printing the set, but as I look closer, it appears that there may be a few more things missing besides the gears (like the drive gear)...  The 3 posts are there, but no in/out gear or knob.  Looking at the exploded parts diagram, it would appear that I need bushings, screws, hold-down bracket, the knob, etc. All should be relatively to buy or make, but lack of dimensions might be a challenge.  At least they left the complete tumbler assembly intact.  I will work on posting a few pictures in the next day or two.
> 
> @benmychree - Over time, I have found a few things to be sacrificial... that probably should _not _have been. Glad you were able to replace and fix it!


Likely, if I was unable to fix it, I likely would have been less welcome at their shop and home.


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## benmychree (Apr 15, 2022)

Blue said:


> Thanks Mike!  That will be much appreciated!  I will likely need more advice and info on the Pick-O-Matic.  I know I do not have the change gears and had already planned on printing the set, but as I look closer, it appears that there may be a few more things missing besides the gears (like the drive gear)...  The 3 posts are there, but no in/out gear or knob.  Looking at the exploded parts diagram, it would appear that I need bushings, screws, hold-down bracket, the knob, etc. All should be relatively to buy or make, but lack of dimensions might be a challenge.  At least they left the complete tumbler assembly intact.  I will work on posting a few pictures in the next day or two.
> 
> @benmychree - Over time, I have found a few things to be sacrificial... that probably should _not _have been. Glad you were able to replace and fix it!


Likely, if I was unable to fix it, I likely would have been less welcome at their shop


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## shadetreedad (Apr 18, 2022)

Blue,

The gear is removed from the gearbox. And the first thing to say is I was wrong about it being ZAMAK. It is steel just like all the other gears in the gearbox. When I first looked at the gear it appeared that the teeth were very worn where they engage. Turns out that is just the way it is made. Plus, the built-in key is “punched” from the outside which gives the appearance of cast key in ZAMAK. Anyway, it certainly should be easy to duplicate. It has the exact same profile as a 20 tooth change gear. So, one of those could be used with a custom shaft to mate up with the lead screw. That’s how I'd make one. I think all the pertinent photos/measurements are attached. If you need any more just let me know.

All the best,

Mike


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## Blue (Apr 18, 2022)

Thanks Mike!  These pictures are great.  I started pulling off my pick-o-matic this weekend, but due to time constraints did not get very far.  I know for sure it needs to be de-grimed inside.  Hopefully, the disassembly will give me an idea how to install this and if anything else is missing.  I suppose the good thing is, that it is indeed the same as a 20-tooth change gear, and I have an un-modified leadscrew on the way.  Since it will be un-modified, I can tailor modify it to suit a 20-tooth gear instead of just hacking it off at the shoulder, per the manual.

Would you mind taking pictures of the install/remove steps for the drive gear into the gearbox? I suppose it could be obvious when I take off the box, but having more info = more comfort/confidence when doing something new.  This lathe restoration is a whole new adventure for me.

Thanks again!
Blue


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## shadetreedad (Apr 19, 2022)

Pick-O-Matic gearbox disassembly.

Start with removal of the lower shaft. Remove collar (1). Gently tap shaft from left to right about an inch. There is a roll pin that goes inside the gear (10-1212). It is not depicted in any official drawings I have ever seen. The hole in the shaft *is* depicted. Once the roll pin is exposed, drive it out with a small pin punch. Now the shaft will continue out through the gear set. Pay close attention to the shift lever. It has a pin (10-1226A) that can fall off and vanish easily.

Next is the upper shaft. It has two collars (2) & (3). There is a set screw not depicted in the drawing (4) that holds the shaft. Loosen all three and remove the shaft (either way). Note: This shaft has an oil passage and must be installed with the correct orientation for proper lubrication.

Both gear sets will stay together if handled carefully.

With both shafts/gear sets removed you can access the drive gear and the feed gear stub.

And that’s it! 

Also, you'll probably find that Pick-O-Matic parts are somewhat rare. So, make a list of what you need/can't find. I'll be glad to loan the ones I have for patterns. Then you can return them when the old Atlas is up and running.
And if you 3D print parts, upload the files to Thingiverse for others to use/access.

Always good to get another Atlas back into operation! 
Mike


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## Blue (Apr 19, 2022)

Thanks again!  Excellent instructions.  I will take that on soon.  Unfortunately, this weekend is already booked for other priority stuff.  But, the leadscrew is scheduled to arrive on Friday 

I am indeed finding that Pick-O-Matic parts are rare and unfortunately, one of the 3 previous owners decided they did not need it so much and removed a bunch of things.  I am hoping the gearbox assembly is all there on the inside.  My guess is that it is because they did not bother to remove anything behind a screwed down cover that would require effort... Thankfully, the tumbler is all there, including the gears (I think).  I need to take a picture of the as-is, but had already removed the tumbler to start cleaning.  I have a grandiose plan to remove and re-paint the cast pieces.   Not sure how great that idea is... How easy is it to remove the main gears?  I will need to change the belt anyway, so I am assuming it is a similar process to remove vs. change the belt.  Any gotchas in the main gears like the shift lever pin?

Definitely appreciate the detailed help!
~Blue

P.S.  I have put off assembly of my 3D printer, but now I have room in the garage and increased incentive to do so.  I think I have a Thingiverse account and will certainly upload (if they work).  I have already tweaked a few change gear drawings in anticipation of the lathe, but of course have not printed anything just yet.


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## shadetreedad (Apr 20, 2022)

The ease of removing an Atlas spindle is entirely dependent on the type of headstock. If you have a Babbitt bearing headstock it's very easy. Just four bolts and the caps lift right off. If it's a Timken bearing headstock then there is much more involved. First let's determine what yours is. On the right end of your lathe bed should be a serial number tag. Post that number(s) and some pictures of your lathe. With that info we'll start off correctly.

Regarding “re-paint”, I would not start that process until you have the lathe completely functional and are fluent in its assembly/operation. After all your hard work you may like the way it looks. Personally, I like the patina of a used machine. Gives it character. 

Mike


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## Blue (Apr 21, 2022)

I have an Atlas Model TH48, SN 042356

Here is the headshot:






Also the side of the Pick-O-Matic (i.e. no change gears or in/out gear)





Front of Pick-O-Matic:





I do not mind patina of old machines, and it definitely gives them character, but I figured to clean this properly, it all needs to come apart anyway.  (Look inside the teeth of the headstock gears).  A lot of the "ugly" in the photos is years of accumulated dirt and grime.  Some of the dull red is already turning bright red with just a little alcohol and elbow grease.   But, the peeling paint above the Pick-O-Matic gearbox is leaving bare metal that I would like to better protect for the next 80 years.


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## shadetreedad (Apr 22, 2022)

The letters/number before the serial number mean it's “T’ Timken bearing “H” horizontal countershaft, “48” 48-inch bed overall length.

Here is an excellent video (not mine) with detailed guidance on Timken spindle removal/install.






Note:
At around 15 minutes into the video, the author is unsure of what the Allen screw in the middle of the main pulley is for. It's an oil hole for lubricating the spindle, needed during back gear operation. It's not meant to ever be tightened down. Just turn it in to just below the pulley surface, so oil doesn’t come back out onto the belt during operation.

Mike


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## wa5cab (Apr 23, 2022)

If you will look in the Sticky area at the top of the Atlas Forum, you will see a warning post pertaining to the subject of the spindle oil plug.  Unfortunately, the aluminum cone pulley is soft enough that if you really work at it, you can continue cutting the threads until the oil plug screw eventually bottoms on and locks against the spindle.  This doesn't really hurt anything so long as the back gears are not engaged.  But if you lock the oil plug screw down and engage back gears, you will either slip the spindle belt or damage the spindle.  Or eventually both.  To check and insure that this hasn't already happened, slacken the spindle drive belt, snug the oil plug screw down lightly, pull out the 10-256 Direct Drive pin (as you would do prior to engaging Back Gears but do NOT engage them) and confirm that the cone pulley spins freely on the spindle.


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## Blue (Apr 27, 2022)

Thanks Mike - The video is extremely helpful, and it does not look too bad to disassemble and clean up, plus change out the rotted belt.  

Also thanks wa5cab - This is very good to know (and it is clear that I should spend a bit more time reading through all of the Atlas stickies!).  To test, I took the "opposite" approach since the belt tensioning lever currently refuses to move, and I do not currently want to put too much force on it just yet... I disengaged the Direct Drive pin and turned the bull gear by hand since the drive belt is rather tight.  Good news is that the spindle moves freely while the stepped pulley stays put, held in place by the belt.  i.e. That setscrew is not bottomed out and is not driven into the shaft.


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## Blue (May 3, 2022)

Thanks again to Mike for the measurements of the 10-1213 drive gear! This is my first "draft" print of the drive gear:






Most of the measurements appear to be "close enough" to possibly work, but the I.D. might be a tad small, but it might just fit on the leadscrew.  I can check tonight.  I have not pulled apart the Pick-O-Matic gearbox just yet, but it might be time   If this actually fits, I plan to print it in a bit more durable material for actual use.  I will also be happy to put the .STL file in the downloads area as well.

Since I am now in the mode of modeling this and the change gears, would you please let me know the dimensions and tooth count of the two in/out gears?  I definitely need to make some prints of those two gears as well, and am not at all sure from the exploded diagram how those two gears actually interact and work in the gear train.  i.e. how does the gear move in/out with the knob?


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## Blue (May 4, 2022)

As expected from the measurements, the ID is undersized enough to not quite fit on to the leadscrew.  Not sure if the material used shrunk a bit or that's just how it prints, but I'll need to either mechanically open it up, or tweak and reprint.  Likely the latter to help maintain concentricity.  Plus, there's a few additional changes is like to make.


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## wa5cab (May 4, 2022)

OK.  That is mostly good news!

If you have a set of chucking reamers in the appropriate diameter range, I would probably establish the correct inside .diameter with those first and then adjust the diameter in the file appropriately and reprint for a keeper.


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## shadetreedad (May 4, 2022)

Blue,

That printed gear looks great! You're well on the way 

Regarding the sliding gears. The small gear (10-1243A) is 20 tooth. The large sliding gear (10-1242) is 40 tooth and the same profile as a 40 tooth change gear. And this sliding gear has the female 20 tooth gear profile on the inside to mate with the gear (10-1243A) You will notice the gear (10-1243A) has a small groove for a snap ring. The snap ring/groove really isn’t necessary if you want to leave it out of the print. It is designed so you can't move the sliding gear “IN” too far. If you did, it wouldn’t hurt anything, only change the gearing.

*Important Note*:
The official exploded diagram (see image) has an error in assembly. Gear (10-1242) should be to the left side of the snap ring on gear (10-1243A). When I first put mine together (following the diagram) I struggled mightily with threading. After looking at actual photographs in the Pick-O-Matic manual the error was obvious. I've attached two photos on my lathe that depict the correct orientation of “IN & OUT”. You will also notice in those images I left off the Gear Link with Knob (10-1232) for clarity. Plus, I added a couple more pictures with just the gears in the same orientation. My gear (10-1243A) is very worn in the IN position!

The handwheel knob is designed so you don’t need a wrench to tighten down the complete gear set. That’s how Atlas could claim you can change into many different speeds/TPI without tools.  I just use a regular 3/8” nut on my gear drive as it gives me more confidence the gear set is tight. The through bolt/stud (10-1230A) can be a standard 3/8” carriage bolt with half the head ground off if you don’t have the factory bolt/stud.

*Another interesting note:*
Your depicted tumbler set has a tin gear guard on the lower gear. This needs to be removed before the small Pick-O-Matic gear (10-1243A) will be able to engage in the OUT position. I think these tin gear guards were standard on gear change models, but I'm not sure about that. Nonetheless, that Pick-O-Matic gearbox probably was never operational, at least correctly, on your machine.

This is a lot of info and I'm sure I've overlooked a bunch. As you move forward, we'll iron out any issues that arise.

All the best!
Mike


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## Blue (May 4, 2022)

Thanks Mike!  The pictures are fantastic and should be enough to go on for drawing and making the 3D printed gears.  Since I have already gone through the pain of making the involute gear teeth and can easily make gears of (nearly) any tooth count, making these two will hopefully be simple.  Worst case, I assume that I could stack two gears and manually flip them around on the shaft if need be to serve the same function.  But duplicating this will be much more fun. 

To clarify - the 40T in-out gear is moved by hand by sliding the gear itself on the 20T "long" gear?  The depicted knob is just to hold the stack tight?  i.e. no loosening of the knob/nut is needed to do the in/out movement... just disengage the tumbler gear and slide it in/out as needed with your finger/screwdriver/tool?  I was trying to figure out from the exploded diagram just how that knob allowed you to push the gear in or pull it out... 


Referring back to the drive gear (that I will likely reprint since I printed the keyway in it and cannot broach that area) - Is the 10-1257 sleeve bushing actually used?  The hole in my Pick-O-Matic for this drive gear is _barely_ over 1" in diameter, meaning there is no room for said bushing to fit unless the drive gear shaft OD is reduced by the thickness of that bushing.  Being a printed gear, the bushing seems like an excellent idea to prevent the housing hold from cutting down the OD of the plastic drive gear - unless the leadscrew naturally holds it dead-center.

(Yet another) question - I see a Phillips pan head screw at the top of your tumbler - used for holding the cover top half in place - what is the thread on that screw?  I managed to damage my nice old brass threaded thumbscrew (don't ask...) and am now unable to check the threads.  It seems like it should be 10-24, but my replacement screw binds up in the hole after a thread or two.


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## Blue (May 5, 2022)

shadetreedad said:


> Normally I run gearing through a banjo with the final leadscrew gearing ~ A= 0.004, B= 0.008, C=0.002. With this setup there is always a “perfect” speed.


Is the gearing that you use for this 56  54  24  52?

If I am going to test the drive gear, I need to print a the in/out gears and few change gears to actually move the leadscrew... Might as well go for the ideal general use speeds


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## shadetreedad (May 5, 2022)

Blue,

I've attached a series of photos that should shed some light on the sliding gear operation. #1 starts with the sliding gear IN. And #8 is ready to go in the OUT position. On most of the photos I removed the large washer that holds the sliding gear on & the Gear Link with Knob (10-1232) for better visibility of gear engagement. They both need to be installed for operation.

Referring to the Drive Gear bushing I've attached a photo of my bushing (10-1251). It is very thin and right at 1” so I assume yours is still in the gearbox. I don’t see the bushing number you reference (10-1257). Could that be a typo or am I looking at the wrong bushing?

I forgot to check the threads on that screw at the top of the tumbler. I'll look at it tonight.

I've attached the gear set up I normally run. There are other ways of achieving these lead screw speeds, but I have several spares of each of the gears depicted. So, if I broke one (hopefully not!) it would be easily replaced.

*Important Update:*
I have one more correction/addition I just realized for removing the upper shaft in the Pick-O-Matic gearbox. There is a set screw holding the shaft in place as depicted in the attached photo. On the gearbox I took apart it was already loose, and I didn’t realize it was even there until taking a couple more photos.
Sorry if that caused anyone confusion. 

I'm still learning too! 

Mike


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## Blue (May 5, 2022)

Thanks for the in/out gear "demo".  That was really helpful.  I assume that the gears installed are not the 2/4/8 configuration, since there are no "F" gears installed.

But, to clarify, your preferred "normal running" configuration is:
D     = 64
E      = 36
F(B) = 32
F(F)  = 64
In/Out = IN

The  parts diagram in my 1st post shows the bushing as 10-1257, and is the bushing that appears to already be in your "Output Shaft Bushing" picture.  Maybe my diagram has a typo, or the 7 is really a 1?  Hard to say, but we are definitely talking about the same bushing.


Spoiler: Output Shaft Bushing Picture









I was referring to the bushing the bronze bit that the calipers are touching.


I will need to clean some grime off of mine to get a better look.  Based on my quick measurement yesterday, the bushing is probably still in mine, so all should be good


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## shadetreedad (May 6, 2022)

Blue,

You are correct. I removed the “F” Position gears to minimize confusion.
My normal setup is exactly as you described.
D = 64
E = 36
F(B) = 32
F(F) = 64
In/Out = IN

The thread pitch on the panhead screw at the top of tumbler is indeed 10-24.

Since starting this conversation with you I have looked closer at the Pick-O-Matic manual/drawings than ever. After our confusion over the 10-1257/10-1251 part numbers and the issue with the sliding gear I decided to scan all five of the different Pick-O-Matic exploded drawings that I have (attached). Turns out Atlas had the typo with our bushing confusion. The oldest drawing lists it as 10-1257. The later four list it as 10-1251.

Another *major discrepancy* in the drawings is the sliding gear setup. The oldest drawing has the gear 10-1243 without a snap ring or groove which I'm sure was correct. And would have worked fine. Then the snap ring/groove was added, and Atlas updated the part number to 10-1243A. However, they incorrectly oriented the image with the snap ring to the left instead of the right side. This is the drawing I used when setting my gears up and caused much confusion why I couldn’t thread properly. On the last two drawings Atlas oriented the gear 10-1243A correctly but didn’t concurrently move gear 10-1242 to the left of gear 10-1243A. So, the only drawing that is actually useable as depicted, is the oldest one.

I'm sure the snap ring was added because users would have slid gear 10-1242 in too far thinking that was the IN position. It would have worked but the gear ratios would not have been what was expected. Exactly my issue.

Anyway, this has been quite a fascinating discovery/journey for me.
And on we go! 

Mike


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## Blue (May 6, 2022)

Fantastic info! (as always  )  Definitely clears up the 1251/1257 confusion.

Thanks very much for the thread size.  I figured it was likely 10-24, but the 10-24 screw I tested bound up quickly.  It could be dirty or the threads slightly damaged... (don't ask), so I might just need to chase the threads to clean them up.  Worst case, it becomes the next size up 
What is interesting is that neither the (thumb) screw, nor the threaded hole on the tumbler bracket that holds the top cover in place is not  shown on any of the 5 versions of the documentation.  Based on the changes between 1944 & 1945, my Pick-O-Matic is not from 1944.

My printed in/out gears are "not bad", but need improvement.  I tried a different resin, and it did not go all that well because this resin did not want to come off of the base surface, and some features were damaged during removal.  But, this was just a "Concept Test Print" and the dimensions seem good.  Best of all, the teeth appear to mesh properly from gear to gear.   The inside gear fits into the outside gear just fine.  If the inner diameter of the inside looks too large, I designed it to use an off the shelf leaded bronze sleeve bearing to press put inside so that the sleeve rides on the bolt instead of the printed plastic.  Seemed wise.






I made an educated guess as to where the c-clip goes on the inner gear by scaling your picture.  Appears to be "close enough" to work.  It might be a good idea to print the movement limiter/clip as part of the piece, since the outer gear can slide over from the nut side for installation. Should be easy enough to add that feature instead of needing a c-clip that will go flying upon removal.


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## shadetreedad (May 6, 2022)

Blue,

That was the first time I noticed the screw or threaded hole at the top of the tumbler wasn’t represented on the drawing. I had to look at the actual photo again to verify. Amazing the amount of errors that can be on a document.

The sliding gear setup looks excellent!
Your idea to print the limiter/clip is the absolute correct thing to do.

You will probably need a bushing in a bushing for your idea to work. Once you tighten down the bolt it will stop the inner bushing from turning. At least if I'm understanding your intentions correctly. If not feel free to disregard. 

And I should have included those two dimensions of the 10-1243A gear. So here they are! 

Mike


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## Blue (May 6, 2022)

My guess was pretty close...  I had .580" & *0.60"* for the notch 

And yes,the idea is a bushing inside a bushing (flanged post over the bolt). The bushing inside the inout gear will be smaller than the gear itself

Updated (just a sketch):


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## shadetreedad (May 9, 2022)

Blue,
That in/out gear should work perfectly!
Also, I didn’t see in your pictures a Gear Link with Knob (10-1232) and thought you may want to print one of those as well (see attached). With your skillset that should be pretty easy. 
Mike


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## Blue (May 9, 2022)

Excellent.  I am indeed missing that piece as well.  The plan was to make one of those out of steel instead of printed plastic.  This piece does not have involute teeth, but your measurements will make it a lot easier to fab.  I have just been passively mulling it over, thinking I should take some measurements.  The 1/8" thickness may be just enough prompt to get me moving forward on this piece.  I will have a few extra 10-24 knurled knobs soon  and may use one of those for this piece.  1/8" is plenty thick for ~3 threads to hold it, and it will not go anywhere with a bit of locktite, a bit 'o solder or a tack weld.

Waiting to print more gears until I get some more appropriate resin for use in gears.  The most recent pieces are not quite right, but the 52 tooth gear I printed fit fine on the drive arbor.  Probably good that I need to wait for resin.  Too much non-lathe stuff going on, and I am slowly cleaning up the 3-Jaw chuck.  (See other thread).


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## Blue (Jun 24, 2022)

Just a quick update on this.  I have been sidetracked by other priorities and am just about done refurbishing the tailstock as a distraction, so this has been a little bit behind.  Besides, it took a really long time for the resin to come in.  The new gears were just printed over the last couple of days.

The "better" resin finally arrived and the gears printed.  However, this "better" resin does _not_ print as well or as consistently as the prior black resin.  While it may be more durable, the features are far less "crisp" and I am finding that I must file them at lot just to fit on the arbors.  But, if they hold up, the extra effort will be worth it.

I did make the retaining piece out of stainless.  I made it out of 1/8" stock and found that I needed to really thin it down to fit into the arbor slots, but now it fits rather well, so adding the knob will be next.

Quick photo of this section.  I plan to refurbish the saddle and apron before moving into the pick-o-matic or drive gears.  I need to replace the drive belt, so those need to come out anyway.  While it is out, a nice de-oiling/cleaning, wire brushing and some fresh paint are in its future.


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## Blue (Jun 27, 2022)

Latest update - I had to file the outer gear's inner teeth to fit and hand drill/ream the center of the inner gear to get these to proper size.  I could press in a couple of bushings into the inner gear and install a spring steel retainer.  I figured this would definitely be best to have a steel arbor, so a copy of the arbor was made.  Fortunately, I waited to make the arbor because this printed resin was ~.030 too long, so it was easy enough to adapt before cutting chips.

So far, it is looking good.  The steel knurled knob is from McMaster (<$10) to keep in the "no tools" spirit for the change gears.

Is there any reason why the carriage bolt head needs to have a couple of sides machined off, except perhaps that it makes it easier to remove without moving the banjo to a few specific spots?  I left my bolt whole for now.



















And installed on the banjo:





Thanks again to Mike for the pictures and dimensions to make this possible!


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## shadetreedad (Jul 1, 2022)

Blue
You're welcome, & that all looks wonderful!
Maybe my carriage bolt had a “big head”. 
If those fit down in the slot without interference, then you should be good to go.
You'll be making chips in no time!
Mike


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