# My Jeroen Jonkman’s Stirling 60 brass Stirling engine build



## SubtleHustle

That is a thing of beauty! VERY well done! I've never really been a model engine guy, but I think I want one of those! Again, great job!!


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## jcp

Excellent!!! Very nice job.


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## mikey

Very nicely done. I enjoyed the detailed write up, too. Congrats, Ted!


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## f350ca

Beautiful work Ted. Like you most of my equipment isn't sized for small work but think I'll have to try one of those.
Thanks for posting

Greg


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## thomas s

Nice job Ted.


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## Bob Korves

Nice job, Ted!  That thing runs fast and efficient!


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## ConValSam

Wicked cool project!  Congratulations!


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## Fitter Bill

Runs great and shiny too. I like this.


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## Technical Ted

Here's an update... I hope the boys like them!

Ted


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## Riverrat

Ted, are there any drawings on the 2 long linkage arms connecting to the cam? They are missing from your prints?


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## Technical Ted

Riverrat said:


> Ted, are there any drawings on the 2 long linkage arms connecting to the cam? They are missing from your prints?


There is an updated set which includes the arms. I don't know the link off the top of my head but I'm sure if you Google you will find them. 

Ted


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## Technical Ted

Here's the complete drawing.

Ted


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## savarin

Awesome work, absolutely gorgeous.


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## Sergio Scauso

Hello Technical Ted!
I finally made my engine!
I mention that I replaced the displacer piston with a glass test tube.
In the first tests the engine turns, but only when I give it a lot of temperature. The rehearsal ended when glass drops fell 
The biggest problem I have, as you can imagine, is friction. Mostly on the displacer hub, made of cast steel.
My question: can this bushing be made of bronze? (The displacer is made of steel)
Thank you very much
--------
Hola Technical Ted!
Finalmente hice mi motor!.
Le comento que reemplacé el pistón desplazador por un tubo de ensayo de vidrio.
En las primeras pruebas el motor gira, pero solo cuando le doy mucha temperatura. En ensayo concluyó cuando cayeron gotas de vidrio 
El problema mayor que tengo, como imaginarás, son las fricciones. Mayormente en el buje del desplazador, de fundición de acero.
Mi pregunta: se podrá hacer este buje de bronce? (El desplazador es de acero)
Muchas gracias a ti


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## Technical Ted

Sergio Scauso said:


> Hello Technical Ted!
> I finally made my engine!
> I mention that I replaced the displacer piston with a glass test tube.
> In the first tests the engine turns, but only when I give it a lot of temperature. The rehearsal ended when glass drops fell
> The biggest problem I have, as you can imagine, is friction. Mostly on the displacer hub, made of cast steel.
> My question: can this bushing be made of bronze? (The displacer is made of steel)
> Thank you very much
> --------
> Hola Technical Ted!
> Finalmente hice mi motor!.
> Le comento que reemplacé el pistón desplazador por un tubo de ensayo de vidrio.
> En las primeras pruebas el motor gira, pero solo cuando le doy mucha temperatura. En ensayo concluyó cuando cayeron gotas de vidrio
> El problema mayor que tengo, como imaginarás, son las fricciones. Mayormente en el buje del desplazador, de fundición de acero.
> Mi pregunta: se podrá hacer este buje de bronce? (El desplazador es de acero)
> Muchas gracias a ti



Please keep in mind I am not the designer of this engine so take my advice as someone who has had to struggle through the problems with this engine myself. 

Not sure about using brass/bronze for the bearing... you want to use whatever material will hold up to the heat and also offer the least resistance/friction. I think this is why cast iron was used by design. It is self lubricating to an extent. But, I certainly don't see where trying different materials is going to hurt anything...

On all 3 that I built, the bearing was the biggest source of trouble... the hole through it has to be perfectly centered and concentric with the OD. The tiny drill I used to drill these ALWAYS wondered off enough to cause big problems. The only way I could get a nice straight hole was to mount one of my small Albrecht chucks in my tool post block and use a dial indicator to get it perfectly centered. This worked, although I think now there is a better way. I would make the bearing with a slightly oversized OD. Then, machine a stubby mandrel in my lathe that I could super glue the bore of the bearing to. Then, turn the OD of the bearing to final size. Heat or acetone will release the super glue.

Also, I would think that glass might weigh too much for the displacer, since you want this as light as possible. If you don't want to make it out of very thin machined brass then I would try aluminum, although it probably won't look as nice. The heavier the displacer tube is, the more the shaft will bind in the bearing.

A thought that I've had if I make another one of these is to tweak the design a little so I could make the cast iron bearing a little longer. My thinking is that being longer would give more bearing surface and help to keep the shaft from cantilevering and binding up. It would be a little more drag because of the longer surface contact, but should help the shaft from binding up because of the unbalanced weight on the shaft as it moves back and forth.

Also, make sure to get all the linkages in perfect alignment when mounting the posts/assemblies. Did you de-grease the ball bearings for the fly wheel? The assembly should turn over VERY freely.

Good luck,
Ted


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## tq60

One can use ball bearing from computer fan maybe? 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


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## Technical Ted

tq60 said:


> One can use ball bearing from computer fan maybe?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk



Maybe? I guess any bearings that are the correct size and type will work, but removing all grease is recommended to reduce the force required to rotate the flywheel. You want it to turn as freely as possible and grease will add restriction. The ones I used were shielded, but the grease was easily removed by letting them soak in brake cleaner, multiple times, and blowing them out with compressed air. 

Ted


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## Sergio Scauso

Technical Ted said:


> Please keep in mind I am not the designer of this engine so take my advice as someone who has had to struggle through the problems with this engine myself.
> 
> Not sure about using brass/bronze for the bearing... you want to use whatever material will hold up to the heat and also offer the least resistance/friction. I think this is why cast iron was used by design. It is self lubricating to an extent. But, I certainly don't see where trying different materials is going to hurt anything...
> 
> On all 3 that I built, the bearing was the biggest source of trouble... the hole through it has to be perfectly centered and concentric with the OD. The tiny drill I used to drill these ALWAYS wondered off enough to cause big problems. The only way I could get a nice straight hole was to mount one of my small Albrecht chucks in my tool post block and use a dial indicator to get it perfectly centered. This worked, although I think now there is a better way. I would make the bearing with a slightly oversized OD. Then, machine a stubby mandrel in my lathe that I could super glue the bore of the bearing to. Then, turn the OD of the bearing to final size. Heat or acetone will release the super glue.
> 
> Also, I would think that glass might weigh too much for the displacer, since you want this as light as possible. If you don't want to make it out of very thin machined brass then I would try aluminum, although it probably won't look as nice. The heavier the displacer tube is, the more the shaft will bind in the bearing.
> 
> A thought that I've had if I make another one of these is to tweak the design a little so I could make the cast iron bearing a little longer. My thinking is that being longer would give more bearing surface and help to keep the shaft from cantilevering and binding up. It would be a little more drag because of the longer surface contact, but should help the shaft from binding up because of the unbalanced weight on the shaft as it moves back and forth.
> 
> Also, make sure to get all the linkages in perfect alignment when mounting the posts/assemblies. Did you de-grease the ball bearings for the fly wheel? The assembly should turn over VERY freely.
> 
> Good luck,
> Ted


Thank you very much for your answer!
I will take into account your advice


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## Sergio Scauso

Technical Ted said:


> Please keep in mind I am not the designer of this engine so take my advice as someone who has had to struggle through the problems with this engine myself.
> 
> Not sure about using brass/bronze for the bearing... you want to use whatever material will hold up to the heat and also offer the least resistance/friction. I think this is why cast iron was used by design. It is self lubricating to an extent. But, I certainly don't see where trying different materials is going to hurt anything...
> 
> On all 3 that I built, the bearing was the biggest source of trouble... the hole through it has to be perfectly centered and concentric with the OD. The tiny drill I used to drill these ALWAYS wondered off enough to cause big problems. The only way I could get a nice straight hole was to mount one of my small Albrecht chucks in my tool post block and use a dial indicator to get it perfectly centered. This worked, although I think now there is a better way. I would make the bearing with a slightly oversized OD. Then, machine a stubby mandrel in my lathe that I could super glue the bore of the bearing to. Then, turn the OD of the bearing to final size. Heat or acetone will release the super glue.
> 
> Also, I would think that glass might weigh too much for the displacer, since you want this as light as possible. If you don't want to make it out of very thin machined brass then I would try aluminum, although it probably won't look as nice. The heavier the displacer tube is, the more the shaft will bind in the bearing.
> 
> A thought that I've had if I make another one of these is to tweak the design a little so I could make the cast iron bearing a little longer. My thinking is that being longer would give more bearing surface and help to keep the shaft from cantilevering and binding up. It would be a little more drag because of the longer surface contact, but should help the shaft from binding up because of the unbalanced weight on the shaft as it moves back and forth.
> 
> Also, make sure to get all the linkages in perfect alignment when mounting the posts/assemblies. Did you de-grease the ball bearings for the fly wheel? The assembly should turn over VERY freely.
> 
> Good luck,
> Ted


Hello!
I agree to lengthen the bearing. I'm going to make a small modification to make it as long as possible. You may be able to lengthen it by 2-3 mm. I'm going to try to make it out of bronze.
Yes, I removed all the lubricant from the ball bearings.
I liked the alternative to get the hole to be centered.
I will tell you about the results I get.
I tell you that I did a pendulum clock and it was also a fight against friction.
Thank you very much again and my apologies for my Google English


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## Sergio Scauso

Technical Ted said:


> Please keep in mind I am not the designer of this engine so take my advice as someone who has had to struggle through the problems with this engine myself.
> 
> Not sure about using brass/bronze for the bearing... you want to use whatever material will hold up to the heat and also offer the least resistance/friction. I think this is why cast iron was used by design. It is self lubricating to an extent. But, I certainly don't see where trying different materials is going to hurt anything...
> 
> On all 3 that I built, the bearing was the biggest source of trouble... the hole through it has to be perfectly centered and concentric with the OD. The tiny drill I used to drill these ALWAYS wondered off enough to cause big problems. The only way I could get a nice straight hole was to mount one of my small Albrecht chucks in my tool post block and use a dial indicator to get it perfectly centered. This worked, although I think now there is a better way. I would make the bearing with a slightly oversized OD. Then, machine a stubby mandrel in my lathe that I could super glue the bore of the bearing to. Then, turn the OD of the bearing to final size. Heat or acetone will release the super glue.
> 
> Also, I would think that glass might weigh too much for the displacer, since you want this as light as possible. If you don't want to make it out of very thin machined brass then I would try aluminum, although it probably won't look as nice. The heavier the displacer tube is, the more the shaft will bind in the bearing.
> 
> A thought that I've had if I make another one of these is to tweak the design a little so I could make the cast iron bearing a little longer. My thinking is that being longer would give more bearing surface and help to keep the shaft from cantilevering and binding up. It would be a little more drag because of the longer surface contact, but should help the shaft from binding up because of the unbalanced weight on the shaft as it moves back and forth.
> 
> Also, make sure to get all the linkages in perfect alignment when mounting the posts/assemblies. Did you de-grease the ball bearings for the fly wheel? The assembly should turn over VERY freely.
> 
> Good luck,
> Ted


Success! I made the bearing with bronze and making it as long as possible decreased friction. Now it works with the flame of a candle.
Thank you very much for your advice.


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## Technical Ted

Sergio Scauso said:


> Success! I made the bearing with bronze and making it as long as possible decreased friction. Now it works with the flame of a candle.
> Thank you very much for your advice.



That's great news! If you have any pictures, please share. And any details of the longer bearing design and how you made it can help me and others in the future! That bearing has always been my number one nemeses! Did you use a mandrel and super glue it to finish the OD? 

Ted


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## Sergio Scauso

Technical Ted said:


> ¡Esas son buenas noticias! Si tiene alguna imagen, por favor compártala. ¡Y cualquier detalle del diseño de rodamiento más largo y cómo lo hizo puede ayudarme a mí y a otros en el futuro! ¡Ese porte siempre ha sido mi némesis número uno! ¿Usó un mandril y lo superpuso para terminar el diámetro exterior?
> 
> Ted


¡Gracias!
Adjunto fotografía e imágenes de los planos con las modificaciones
(Por favor no mires la parte estética, esa será la siguiente etapa)


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## Sergio Scauso

@Technical Ted :
I am attaching the link to a video that I made and uploaded to Youtube. It includes part of the process, mistakes and the happy end result.
I name you in the description.





------------------------------------------------------------------------
@Technical Ted :
Le adjunto el link a un video que hice y subí a Youtube. Incluye parte del proceso, errores y el feliz resultado final.
Te nombro en la descripción.


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## Technical Ted

Very nice!

Ted


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## tbill

Beautiful little engine. I am new to the group and just ran across this posting. I just acquired a little microlux  micromark true inch lathe and when I get all the work of making improvements on it completed, I think I'll make one of these for my first project. It just looks nice. I'm sure its great conversation piece. Great job!


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