# Best Options To Order For 1340GT



## marcusp323 (Oct 13, 2014)

Just about ready to pull the trigger & order a 1340GT, Wondering whether somebody that owns one would mention with what options they ordered theirs & whether they'd do it that way again or order more/less extras from QMT. Figure I'm going to opt for the 3 phase motor & then buy a VFD just because I like what I've been reading about the versatility & smoothness of that setup. Any input is appreciated. 
New to this site, been playing with an old (but great condition) SB 9 for a few years. Know just about enough to get myself in trouble, so figure it must be time to get something bigger & more capable. Besides, I'm moving into a place where I'll have a 19x22 ft room (separate from the garage even) all to myself for some toys, & got permission from the boss to buy what I want. Might toy with the idea of a mill soon too.
Hope I don't have to enlarge the door to move the bigger lathe in, but sometimes sacrifices must be made, & I do have a Sawzall.........:makingdecision:
Thanks,
Mark


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## tmarks11 (Oct 13, 2014)

DRO. Hands down the most useful and production enhancing device to get on a lathe.  Matt has good prices.  You know you will want one sooner or later, why not sooner?


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## zmotorsports (Oct 13, 2014)

First off, great choice on the lathe.  I have been extremely happy with my PM1340GT.  I would suggest ordering the 3-phase and using a VFD but it looks like you are already going that route.  Other than that I ordered the preferred package as I needed chucks due to letting my previous ones go with my last lathe.  

I did not order the DRO for the lathe.  I have been able to get by just fine with the dials on my previous lathe as well as the one at work and didn't feel a DRO was necessary on a lathe.  I did however, splurge and order the 3-axis DRO on my mill which I would do again in a heart beat.  Maybe someday I will add one to the lathe but I am quite comfortable without a DRO on the lathe at the current time.


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## marcusp323 (Oct 13, 2014)

Should have mentioned that the preferred package was pretty much a no-brainer for me. Never had a DRO, but they sound cool, & that's half of the excuse to get one I suppose. I'm just going to be dinking around with my own projects so production time isn't much of a factor.


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## chuckorlando (Oct 13, 2014)

You dont need a dro at all. But they sure make things easier. I have 3 axis on the mill but none on the lathe yet. I intend to buy a better dro for the mill and move the cheap one to the lathe.

What options are available?


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## mksj (Oct 13, 2014)

I would recommend getting the preferred package, the quality of the additional parts are high and you will spend a lot more if you buy everything piecemeal. Agree on the DRO, probably an Easson ES-8a. If you do not have a VFD, then I would include a Hitachi WJ200 (for the WJ200 you will need to buy a 50 Ohm 500-1000W braking resistor, probably eBay). When you buy everything in a package, the pricing is about as good as you will find anywhere else, and without the wasted time and additional shipping costs. 

The three phase lathe, saves you the cost of buying a motor, but the stock PM1340GT motor whines like a cat in heat, even with the carrier frequency set high. Options for alternate 3 phase motors that fits in the tight motor area are limited. Possibly the Marathon Motor Metric series or their E467 would be my suggestions, but both will need some mods to fit. I recommend AutomationDirect for relays and switches, wide selection at reasonable prices. http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...uttons_-z-_Switches_-z-_Indicators/22mm_Metal. It is recommended to use shielded wiring for the controls and VFD to motor connection, especially if you dial up the VFD carrier frequency to quiet down the whining motor.

The machine is worthy of a good BXA QCTP, the Phase II set can be had for under 200 at Enco when on sale. Otherwise Aloris or Dorian, snag a set at ENCO or MSC when they have a deep sale discount with free shipping.  I ended up with a Dorian, as I will be using it hopefully for many years. I also have some Aloris holders, fit and finish on the Aloris and Dorian make them a joy to use. When you look at the cost of decent QCTP/tool holders over the years of use, getting it right the first time is worth the price difference.


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## marcusp323 (Oct 13, 2014)

Looks like these are the options available from QMT

With Preferred Equipment Lathe Package
PM-1340GT $5599.00
Includes everything above, PLUS
· 6" High Precision 3 Jaw Chuck · Micrometer Carriage Stop
· 8" High Precision 4 Jaw Chuck · Halogen Work Light
· 1/2" Drill Chuck with MT3 Arbor and Key · Precision Live Center, MT#3
Optional Equipment
10" Face Plate $99.00
Quick Change Tool Post Set, WEDGE Type with 5 Holders, Installed $199.95
Coolant System, with Pump, Hoses, Nozzle (Factory Order Only) $199.95
Taper Turning Attachment $599.00
4 Position Carriage Stop $99.00
5C Collet Chuck $299.00
5C Lever Type Collet Closer, Installed $599.00
Variable Speed Option (Factory Installed Only) $995.00
Spindle Spider, for Gunsmithing Use (Made in USA) $199.00
Roller Jaws for Steady Rest (Made in USA) $189.00
Easson 2 axis DRO, Installed $795.00


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## GA Gyro (Oct 13, 2014)

marcusp323 said:


> Looks like these are the options available from QMT
> 
> *With Preferred Equipment Lathe Package
> PM-1340GT $5599.00
> ...



I am about to order a 1340GT also... the items with an asterisk (*) to the left are the ones I am considering.

Question for you guys that already have the lathe:  Is the QCTP that Matt supplies a good choice... or better to buy aftermarket?

Also; does Matt sell the Hitachi VFD's... if so, is he competitive on them?  

THX

GA


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## zmotorsports (Oct 13, 2014)

I cannot comment on the QCTP that Matt/QMT offers, as I chose to purchase a Dorian.  I had a Phase II on my previous lathe and it was ok for the money but I just figured this will be my last lathe and I am not going cheap.  I don't know what brand QMT sells.

Also FYI, if you have a milling machine or access to one you can save yourself $50 bucks on the QCTP from QMT.  I believe Matt sells them for $149.00 or $199.00 with the "T" machined and installed.  Personally, that's 50 bucks I would keep in my pocket.


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## mksj (Oct 13, 2014)

Agree with Mike on the QCTP, I also milled my own T nut. QMT sells Hitachi VFDs. I would get a decent sensorless vector control VFD that has a manual in English and is understandable, I would skip the bargain basement ones sold on eBay. You should be able to get some better pricing when you package everything together. So do some window shopping in advance to get an idea of pricing, then do the dance.


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## chuckorlando (Oct 13, 2014)

If I was spending your money I would get the dro and either draw bar closer or chuck for 5c collets. Taper attachment is cool if you need alot of tapers. You can make bearing fingers for your steady pretty easy and same with carriage stop. I also would not buy the face plate just because I aint never needed it. So it could wait in lieu of cooler things ahahaha. Evn the dro can be had cheaper if you want it. Some good deals on ebay for 2 axis dros


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## marcusp323 (Oct 13, 2014)

Thinking if you were spending MY money, you'd get ALL the cool stuff you could manage to find!
Having no first hand knowledge of DROs, & lots of first hand experience with some ebay sellers, I'm going to let Matt handle it. Will try to pick up an Aloris or Dorian while I'm waiting for a delivery date. At least 2 months out, but that's OK. Been waiting years to take the plunge on this much machine. Getting the upgrade package, 3 ph motor & Hitachi VFD, Easson DRO installed too. Think it'll be a good place to start. 
Thanks to the people who chimed in & gave me tips on their experiences.


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## chuckorlando (Oct 13, 2014)

shoot just the machine with hss bit C clamped to the compounds a good place to start. You will love using it


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## tmarks11 (Oct 13, 2014)

GA said:


> I am about to order a 1340GT also... the items with an asterisk (*) to the left are the ones I am considering.


Unless you have a specific use in mind for the face plate, I would skip it for now.  Mine sits in a drawer, still covered in cosmoline. I get everything done with a 3 jaw, 4 jaw, and 5C collet chuck.

I would strongly recommend a collet chuck and collet set. I splurged for a Bison.

Roller jaws for the steady rest.  hmm.  Again, unless you have a specific use in mind, the steady rest doesn't get used a whole lot in most setups.  It is in the drawer with my faceplate.


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## zmotorsports (Oct 14, 2014)

tmarks11 said:


> Unless you have a specific use in mind for the face plate, I would skip it for now.  Mine sits in a drawer, still covered in cosmoline. I get everything done with a 3 jaw, 4 jaw, and 5C collet chuck.
> 
> I would strongly recommend a collet chuck and collet set. I splurged for a Bison.
> 
> Roller jaws for the steady rest.  hmm.  Again, unless you have a specific use in mind, the steady rest doesn't get used a whole lot in most setups.  It is in the drawer with my faceplate.



Agreed.  I would pass on the faceplate for the near future, if you decide you need one you can always get one at a later date.  I had one for my last lathe that I rarely used.  I probably didn't really need to use it when I did, I merely used it because I had it and wanted to use it so I felt better about purchasing it in the first place.

When looking at QCTPs, make sure to get the wedge style vs. the pin or plunger style.  The wedge style are much preferred because they pull the toolholder down and back locating it in the EXACT same place each time.  This way you can remove and re-insert the toolholder and be spot on the same place before.  Not so with the plunger or pin style tool post.


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## marcusp323 (Oct 14, 2014)

Agreed on the wedge type, feels more secure vs. the piston type on my 9", though they didn't quite get the indexing correct when the collar got threaded for the handle on my Phase II. Makes it kind of a pain to fit the tool holder as it has to be wiggled on because the handle gets in the way for one of the dovetails. Used to it though.
Thinking I'll keep my eyes open for a used Aloris or Dorian for now. Got a couple months to find something & there appears to be many around.


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## Rbeckett (Oct 14, 2014)

Get all the options that you can afford.  DRO, Tools, 4 jaw and centers.  You will find that the tool packages from Matt will save you money over buying them and doing the install yourself.  Matt always provides a really good deal on all of the options he offers, so don't blow up your budget, but get as much as you can as early as possible.  You won't regret getting it fully outfitted from the very beginning

Bob


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## Ianagos (Oct 15, 2014)

Man you guys are buying these things new and I can get rid of mine.


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## drs23 (Oct 15, 2014)

Ianagos said:


> Man you guys are buying these things new *and I can get rid of mine.*



:headscratch:


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## GA Gyro (Oct 15, 2014)

Ianagos said:


> Man you guys are buying these things new and I can get rid of mine.



You are on the other side of Atlanta from me... 

What do you have that you want to sell?

(Or did I not understand...  )????


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## marcusp323 (Oct 15, 2014)

Maybe he's got a PM-1340GT for cheap. Otherwise, I'm with the last two posters......................baffled


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## GA Gyro (Oct 15, 2014)

So far, have not heard anything from the poster... 

They are welcome to contact me... by PM or Email.


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## JPatMcConnel (Oct 23, 2014)

I recently received my PM1340GT in July with most of the extras that Matt offers, except for the 5C collets and associated tooling. I use ER32 and ER40 collets and collet chucks instead in my work making custom fountain pens and other articles. I like the DRO but discovered early on that it pays to make sure the fasteners securing the glass scales are tight; one on the end of the my carriage glass scale was loose, so the scale was self adjusting from pulling on the DRO cable when the carriage moved. Otherwise, I feel the quality of what Matt offers is very high and I love the lathe. BTW, with use you will develop new ideas about what additional tooling you need so I wouldn't sweat perfecting everything now.


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## marcusp323 (Mar 5, 2015)

Lathe finally arrived yesterday. Lotsa excitement around here, (OK, only I was excited).

This is where she's going to live:





Got the stand semi-in-place





Wheeled in the heavy part & noticed this damage on the ways. Somebody packed the 4 jaw on top of it & didn't secure it, OUCH!!!
Will have to see what Matt says for next course of action. Bummed to put it mildly.


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## tmarks11 (Mar 5, 2015)

Use a Norton stone to get any rough edges off and then ignore it.  This is a machine tool, not a fine work of art.

The little dents will hold way oil better.  Sort of like the much-prized hand-scraping marks on high end mills (and POS spray painted "owner refurbished mills", where the "hand scraping" is done with an angle grinder) hold the oil on the ways better and help keep it lubricated.

Sort of like the first time you use a Norton stone on a magnetic chuck... the beautiful ground top gets covered with scratches... but it works better when you get rid of rough edges from scratches...


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## marcusp323 (Mar 5, 2015)

That may be true, but it's still NOT the way (or the proper place) to package a heavy item when shipping it, new or not!


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## tmarks11 (Mar 5, 2015)

marcusp323 said:


> That may be true, but it's still NOT the way (or the proper place) to package a heavy item when shipping it, new or not!


You are right.  You are lucky (or maybe Matt is) that the damage is not worse.... the chuck bouncing around on the bed all the way across the ocean could have caused some serious damage.  The chuck should have been strapped with metal straps to the pallet underneath the machine.

Try to talk Matt into some "free" accessories, and then enjoy the machine.

I made a conscious decision to ignore visual defects and imperfections on my G0709 that didn't affect performance, and after a short while I stopped noticing them.  It is a heavy cast iron tool meant to be used and abused.


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## marcusp323 (Mar 5, 2015)

It didn't come across the ocean like that. Just from PA. They uncrate & test these as well as fitting the accessories before they're re-crated & shipped out. Guessing someone may have forgotten to put it in the bottom & had the crate already made up when they noticed it hadn't been packed (don't need to ask why I'd guess that [roll eyes]).


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## GA Gyro (Mar 6, 2015)

Marcus...

Sorry your ways are dinged... As noted above... probably the largest damage is to us guys sense of 'perfect'... 
(There are a LOT of smiley faces to choose from).

I would see if I can get some merch from Matt, and let him know... so he can tighten the leash on the guys in his shop.


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## marcusp323 (Mar 6, 2015)

He asked if he needed to maybe fire anybody when he got back from overseas. Evidently they always ship the chuck atop the ways. I suggested more padding than a layer of Taiwanese cardboard between the two parts. Haven't hit him up for anything..............yet. But he did suggest I should feel free to ask & that he'd make it right. Thinking about that 5C collet chuck, wonder what kind of discount I might be able to get, hmmmm.


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## wrmiller (Mar 6, 2015)

As I put a deposit on the last available lathe in this last shipment, I was unable to change anything on the lathe that comes 'factory installed only'. My lathe is a single phase, but Matt had a factory 3-phase motor in the shop that I bought from him. I also got the upgrade package as well. He offered the QCTP as a free upgrade, and I didn't say no. 

I then had him add the VFD to the package, and I will be getting the taper attachment soon after my wallet comes out of intensive care. I may eventually get the face plate but it will be a ways off as that will spend more time in a drawer than my four-jaw. But I will be asking him about the rollers for the steady (or make my own) as they are better for rifle barrel work. Jury is still out on any collet setup as I see that as more for production than custom one off stuff. That and I now have a 3-jaw set-tru that can be just as accurate as any collet setup, even if it takes more time to set up.

My lathe will likely be here next week, and now I'm a bit nervous about this whole chuck/bed thing. Hope mine is ok...


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## GA Gyro (Mar 6, 2015)

Bill...

I ordered the face plate... it comes with the 3 pins to mount the spindle... D1-4

Will catch up this evening.

John


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## GA Gyro (Mar 6, 2015)

marcusp323 said:


> He asked if he needed to maybe fire anybody when he got back from overseas. Evidently they always ship the chuck atop the ways. I suggested more padding than a layer of Taiwanese cardboard between the two parts. Haven't hit him up for anything..............yet. But he did suggest I should feel free to ask & that he'd make it right. Thinking about that *5C collet chuck*, wonder what kind of discount I might be able to get, hmmmm.



That sounds like a good trade to me, get the WHOLE setup...


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## marcusp323 (Mar 8, 2015)

Maybe a deal on one of those Bison chucks instead. perhaps I'll just use the 5C stuff for the mill. Decisions, decisions............
Meanwhile, the electrical box has been gutted & a loom with 5 twisted pairs installed for the switches, pot & light. Used this wire when I did the mill & it worked out well. Kinda fat for the clamps, but doable. Been studying the schematics provided by mksj, & think I'll have her wired up shortly. Still need to get another box for the VFD, but that's the easy part.


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## wrmiller (Mar 8, 2015)

I vote for the Bison.


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## darkzero (Mar 12, 2015)

Matt does have some pretty good prices on Bison. I wish he had them back when I purchased my lathe.


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## marcusp323 (Mar 12, 2015)

Started tackling the wiring a few days ago, remembered why I hated working on some of those tiny spaces on airplanes with little connectors & tight spaced terminal boards.








My first shot at doing this ended up too much like the spaghetti factory.






Still room for improvement, but a tiny bit tidier








Got the entire setup as close to the wall as the cherry picker would allow & used a couple of my alignment bolts & some square tube to get it the rest of the way in.





All set for cleanup, DRO head & small parts installation. I was, believe it or not, smart enough (this time around) to test it BEFORE pushing it close to the wall.


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## marcusp323 (Mar 12, 2015)

As a side note, I bought a 5L280W belt from NAPA & when installed the gear cover on the lathe will no longer fit. Evidently they've changed something. The belt that came with it has B25 on it, so my guess is that perhaps a 5L250 or 5L260 would be closer.


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## wrmiller (Mar 12, 2015)

Good to know, thanks.


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## GA Gyro (Mar 13, 2015)

Wiring is looking good Marcus... If I get mine on the stand this weekend, will tackle the wiring.  
The NEMA box came in yesterday, so I can start mounting things.

Been studying the manual for the WJ200... Chinglish is definitely a new dialect... takes some getting used to...


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## marcusp323 (Mar 13, 2015)

Not a lot of useful instruction that I saw in there. Specs, part names & locations mostly. Still a good reference when a guy needs it though. 
Stock belt on my machine is a B-25, had to swap to the slower speed pulleys last night & it was a real *****. Motor case hits one of the headstock adjustment bolts. Belt is just plain tight too. Ordered a replacement from NAPA, (seeing the rubber dust already), but may end up going with a 26" instead. 
Ran a test cut on a nice fat aluminum bar & the diameter was off around .004 in 6 or 7 inches. Running a dial indicator down the length  confirmed the problem. Loosened the headstock bolts just a smidge & half the runout went away (indicated). Took the rest out with one of the adjustment bolts & did another cut. Ended up around .00025 that time so figure it's good enough for me. Haven't got around to the tailstock yet, had to tend to a wiring job in the house. 
Curious whether the oil tends to have a foam on top in anybody else's sight glass? Will be draining & replacing it soon, so may be a non-issue anyway.


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## wrmiller (Mar 13, 2015)

I suppose I'll find them in the document or during a visual, but where are these adjustment bolts for the headstock anyway? Mike (zmotorsports) had to tweak his too, so I'm betting mine will be a bit off. Oh...and let me know what belt size works for your lathe.


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## marcusp323 (Mar 13, 2015)

Back side of the headtock. there are 3 hex screws. I only played with one & called it good. It's in line with the bed, & that's good enough. May not be perfectly on the centerline, but I can adjust the tailstock to match, I reckon.
Got that 5l250W on, but it's tight. Think the 260 would have been a better choice. By the way, anybody need a 5L280 belt for their lathe? I'll send it to you, no charge.
Mark


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## GA Gyro (Mar 14, 2015)

marcusp323 said:


> Back side of the headtock. there are 3 hex screws. I only played with one & called it good. It's in line with the bed, & that's good enough. May not be perfectly on the centerline, but I can adjust the tailstock to match, I reckon.
> Got that 5l250W on, but it's tight. Think the 260 would have been a better choice. By the way, anybody need a 5L280 belt for their lathe? I'll send it to you, no charge.
> Mark



Does the 280 fit... does it fit in one belt configuration and not the other?  If so... I probably would be interested.  Text me, THX

John


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## marcusp323 (Mar 14, 2015)

It fits enough to drive the machine, but doesn't appear as there will be any adjustment left. The cover will NOT fit when it is installed.
Mark


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## GA Gyro (Mar 14, 2015)

marcusp323 said:


> It fits enough to drive the machine, but doesn't appear as there will be any adjustment left. The cover will NOT fit when it is installed.
> Mark



OOOPs...

If the cover will not fit with that belt... well that would not work for me.  
THX for the offer though.

John


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