# Changed the coolant/cutting fluid in my saw- PITA



## Janderso (Jan 2, 2021)

A dirty job to say the least.
I changed the coolant in my Jet horizontal saw. What a PITA!!
I try to keep my equipment in good shape. This is the first time I changed the fluid since I bought the saw in early 2019.
It was due.
The reservoir has no drain. It has an opening for the pump and the inlet/screen.
The pic has the fresh fluid.
I have two gallons of nasty chip infested old coolant. Fortunately I can take it to work and dump it in the mop water drum for recycling.
Your thoughts on the water soluble oil or the synthetic?
I use the same concentrate for all my machines. Surface grinder, mill, lathe......I just ran out of the water soluble stuff.


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## benmychree (Jan 2, 2021)

My experience is that all the different coolants other than cutting oil go bad, eventually causing rusting problems, I think that daily use, where the coolant is aerated helps with coolant lifespan.


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## mksj (Jan 2, 2021)

I tried several coolants in my bandsaw and had very good tank life and cutting performance using Koolrite emulsion, I would go 1+ years w/o changing it when I was in Arizona. Other products went rancid in a couple of months, I also had less issues with rusting using the Koolrite. David Best also had a product he recommended but I do not recall the name. I use my bandsaw less frequently these days so have been cutting dry for the last 2 years, but using the Koolrite definitely improved the cutting performance and chip removal. Removing and cleaning the tank is a real PTA, I did modify the coolant connection and was planning on putting a sealed socket connector for the power to make removal easier. Also the coolant pump can get rusted and clogged if left too long without changing the coolant. 



			KOOLRite 2290 Long Life Coolant


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## Ianagos (Jan 2, 2021)

I like qualichem 251c gone 3 years on one of my machines and it was not terrible even at that point. I think tormach still sells it by the gallon. One gallon should last a while in a small saw. 

You do need a refractometer to check it every month or so. You could guess but then that can go bad.


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## pontiac428 (Jan 2, 2021)

Jeff, I wouldn't use that synthetic. It's full of amines that break down to n-nitrosamines, which directly cause cancer by forming adducts with the nucleic acid guanine. The industry knows it, but consumers might not.


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## Janderso (Jan 2, 2021)

pontiac428 said:


> Jeff, I wouldn't use that synthetic. It's full of amines that break down to n-nitrosamines, which directly cause cancer by forming adducts with the nucleic acid guanine. The industry knows it, but consumers might not.


Pontiac,
Did you come up with that from memory? 
I was steered away from synthetics after I bought it.
John, I think you advised against the synthetic.
Shoot, need to buy some.


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## pontiac428 (Jan 2, 2021)

I did come up with that from memory, but assessing industrial chemicals for health risk is what I do for a living. The soluble oils are fine until they rot. Stick to the changeout schedule. The nitrosamines from the synthetic breaking down are no joke, though.


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## aliva (Jan 2, 2021)

Everything in life has risk, driving, walking, using a  knife etc., it's up to the individual  to determine if the risk  level is worth the end result. I use synthetic coolant, Castrol Syntilo, Works well ,it's clear in color so it doesn't obscure the work. I'm in my late 60s  I have beaten cancer so far, and have other health issues. So exposure to nitrosamines is not on my list of concerns. I don't use the coolant often enough  for it to be a issue. 
I'm not disputing or down playing the hazards, but put everything into prospective. and make an informed decision. At what temperature do the nitrosamine's form,? What's your exposure length, what's the level of concentration? what's the LDL value? what's the areas a ventilation?
You decide.


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## finsruskw (Jan 2, 2021)

That looks like the same saw I have.
When you guys get the coolant deal all sorted out, be sure and let us deplorables out here in the hinterland know which is best and where to get it, OK??


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## The Shootist (Jan 5, 2021)

We have that same saw in the shop at work.

I buy Kool-tool for it so we don't have any mixing or anything to fool with. We don't use it much and don't want to mess around with dilution and rust.


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## pdentrem (Jan 5, 2021)

We use some sort of Cimcool product, I will have to check which one. We also put a small pump to keep the coolant aerated. Keeps the stink down and conditioner helps as well.
Pierre


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## mikey (Jan 5, 2021)

Unless you're in a production situation and have to cut a LOT of material, coolant is a huge mess to have to deal with. You could just use a wax stick lubricant and avoid all that mess and chemistry, Jeff.


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## 7milesup (Jan 5, 2021)

mikey said:


> Unless you're in a production situation and have to cut a LOT of material, coolant is a huge mess to have to deal with. You could just use a wax stick lubricant and avoid all that mess and chemistry, Jeff.


I am interested in this.  Do you have a preference on brand, etc.?


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## mikey (Jan 5, 2021)

7milesup said:


> I am interested in this.  Do you have a preference on brand, etc.?



Sure. Here is one of many. They're all pretty much the same - search for "wax stick lubricant".

This stuff works well for bandsaws, belt sanders, drilling, tapping or anywhere you don't want a fluid mess in a cutting or grinding operation. I've been using it for many years on my 5X7 bandsaw and it works really well.


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## Janderso (Jan 5, 2021)

I tried the wax stick, in fact I use it on the 14" delta vertical metal/wood saw.
For aluminum, the wax does not work for me. Aluminum welds itself to the blade. (WD-40 is amazing for aluminum in my experience)
When I use flood coolant, everything stays cool, the saw is made to use it. If I add a drain hole to the tank, it won't be nearly such a big deal.
Like Mikey says, "here is one of many" there are dozens of choices.
Since I have a gallon of the synthetis, I'm gonna give it a shot. It's says specifically good for grinding. I just changed my SG coolant.
I'll report on the Rustlick synthetic when I switch out the rservoir.
Thanks for the help and all the information!!
I appreciate it.


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## mikey (Jan 5, 2021)

Odd. I've never had a problem when cutting aluminum with stick wax. Hmm ...


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## kb58 (Jan 5, 2021)

Children, step aside and I'll share a story.

You know nothing about coolant reservoirs until you've bought an old lathe where the sump was probably never cleaned in 40 years. The best analogy is like being handed some rubber gloves and a pile of paper towels, and being told to clean out a Porta-Potty. Okay, maybe not quite that gross literally, because the smell wasn't as bad, but everything else, including the color and consistency of the contents, did match the analogy. My work here is done.


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## 682bear (Jan 7, 2021)

kb58 said:


> Children, step aside and I'll share a story.
> 
> You know nothing about coolant reservoirs until you've bought an old lathe where the sump was probably never cleaned in 40 years. The best analogy is like being handed some rubber gloves and a pile of paper towels, and being told to clean out a Porta-Potty. Okay, maybe not quite that gross literally, because the smell wasn't as bad, but everything else, including the color and consistency of the contents, did match the analogy. My work here is done.



I can relate... my Cincinnati horizontal mill was made in 1947.... I'm sure the 'oil' in the coolant tank (cast into the machine base) was put in there when the machine was new... and never changed. Most of it had the consistency of swamp mud, but the bottom inch or so was solidified into something resembling outhouse waste.

I managed to clean most of it out.

-Bear


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## Janderso (Jan 8, 2021)

Hmm,
I should check inside the casting in my Sharp TMV milling machine. There is a screen in the base to catch oil/coolant. There is a drain plug on the side. It would be interesting to see what drains out.


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## Ianagos (Jan 8, 2021)

kb58 said:


> Children, step aside and I'll share a story.
> 
> You know nothing about coolant reservoirs until you've bought an old lathe where the sump was probably never cleaned in 40 years. The best analogy is like being handed some rubber gloves and a pile of paper towels, and being told to clean out a Porta-Potty. Okay, maybe not quite that gross literally, because the smell wasn't as bad, but everything else, including the color and consistency of the contents, did match the analogy. My work here is done.



Speaking of which I’ve actually had to do the porta potty thing but no paper towels and the gloves were trash bags or whatever you could find. I couldn’t believe it after we did it the first time but then it happened again. I stayed out of it mostly because I just dug holes especially after the first incident.

I remember the look on one guys face and he pulled his hand out and realize the trash bag leaked and he had mystery blue water all over his hand/arm.

I’ll take a cnc sump anyway. Some are pretty bad and they still got chuck’s typically but it’s a mental thing for me


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## 7milesup (Jan 8, 2021)

You guys could have been on Dirty Jobs with Mike Rowe!


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## kb58 (Jan 8, 2021)

Yeah on top of the disgust is the fear of having you gloves cut open by sharp-edged debris. Worse, then that debris cut your fingers, allowing in that nasty stuff containing who knows what. Yeah, it can do a real head job on you if you let it, but it should be done when you buy something just because. Since my lathe is just for my hobby, once it was cleaned, and because I wouldn't be using coolant, I blocked off and sealed the sump grating.


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