# Shimming Lathe Bed



## Kroll (May 4, 2013)

Guys how close is close enought shimming the bed?When I purchase this lathe it had afew shims under the bed at the tailstock end and headstock.Now,I don't know if it was shim just to level it with the floor or what and why.

My base which is homemade and maybe not perfect and it may have alittle twist in it and I'm sure my shop floor is not perfect.With my 2'level resting on the way(I don't have a machinist level) the tail stock end needs to come up alittle.Now I can raise the base up some which will raise the bed till its level but I really want the base just to seat on the hard mat with no type of shimming,just to help keep it stable on the floor.I took some .125 shims and place them under the feet of the bed which raise it up 1/8 and its close but no cigar,would it not be better to be alittle unlevel and have the whole foot of the bed resting on the base and just shim it to compensate for the base having a twist?Now,with the bed resting on the base and not shims the bed does rock slightly which I can use shims for that but how can I tell if its the bed or the base and if it is the bed(lets say)should I just shim it or tighten down on the bolts.Guess its out by maybe .025,haven't tried any shims yet just wanted to see what ya'll think.

Right now I'm just playing to see how close and how much shimming is needed just to get it level and no racking.If its the base thats out(I think it is) or the bed which since its 1950 it may also be twisted some.I hope ya'll can make since of my rambling,this is my project for the day is to get it shim and close to level or perfectly level if needed.Thanks for some guidence---kroll


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## wa5cab (May 4, 2013)

Kroll,

As has been written before, the bed does not have to be perfectly level left-to-right and front-to-back in order to work as well as it can.  However, the ways do have to be in the same plane (no arch/sag and no twist) and the easiest way to achieve that is to level it.  If you were going to have a full length drip pan with drain, and if you were going to bolt the stand's legs to the slab, I would first level the top of the table/pan front to back and left to right, except leave the tailstock end just slightly low.  Then I would level the bed.  

If you are not going to bolt the legs down, I would shim under the legs so that all four are firmly setting on the mat and the average orientation of the top is level.  Then I would attempt to accurately level the bed.  Whether you can or not may depend upon how stiff the stand is and/or how straight it is.  For what to do about arch if you find any, read the bed leveling instructions in any Atlas or Craftsman manual that contains them.

Robert D.


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## VSAncona (May 6, 2013)

I don't mean this to be negative, but you really need to buy or borrow a machinist's level to do this job right. A carpenter's level just isn't accurate enough.


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