# Hitachi VFD Control Panel Wiring Questions



## Smudgemo (Feb 26, 2014)

My VFD is supposed to be here tomorrow, and I'm planning my remote control wiring in anticipation, but I'm still trying to wrap my brain around setting up the basic functions I want.  Could anyone that's got a handle on this stuff give me some feedback, even if you need to point out what I'm doing is stupid? I bought switches and such before actually figuring this out, but I think I'm close with what I've got on hand.  This is the box as I'm intending to lay it out:




First, this will be PNP, so 24 VDC runs through the various switches and buttons, and on to the individual terminals 1-7 as needed.  I'm using the 3 wire interface, so the green run button is normal open, the yellow (wish I bought red) stop button is normal closed, and the three-position switch will be normal open for Reverse, nothing (off) for Forward, and normal open for Jog (the F/R logic might be backward because pages 3-86 and 4-31 seem to be in conflict.)  The e-stop is normal open.  The pot is a 10k from Radio Shack and will go to terminals H/O/L.

Not that this is necessary information since the terminals are customizable, but I plan to use Run=3, Stop=4, Reverse=5 (unless backward), nothing for forward (unless backward), Jog=2, e-Stop=1.  So far, does this sound proper?

Now the questions about the switches themselves (these are Autonics products in case it matters.)
1. The contact blocks for switch functions are all labeled 220VAC, 5A  110VAC,10A.  Since these are just on/off switches, no problem, right?
2. The green/yellow buttons are lit by LED contact blocks that are labeled 100-220 VAC, 10mA, but I would think to to work with 24VDC I'd need to buy the 12-30VAC/DC versions.  Yes?
3. How should the LEDs be powered?  24VDC->LED->L (GND)?  
4. Is there a way to use the LED blocks that I have if 24VDC won't do it?
5. Are these sorts of buttons normally on when the VFD is powered up?  I have a switch to turn power off to the VFD because it normally only sees weekend use.  If so, they'd come on with that switch.
6. I lucked out hooking up the pot on my Benchmaster.  Is there some way to tell or know which wire is used for what?

Am I missing anything or heading down the wrong path?  I appreciate any input.

The manual is located here: http://www.hitachi-america.us/supportingdocs/forbus/inverters/Support/WJ200_Instruction_NT325X.pdf

Thanks,
Ryan


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## JimDawson (Feb 27, 2014)

I'll try to help a bit here.   I didn't go through the entire manual, just enough to try to answer you questions.





_The e-stop is normal open._


The E-stop should be NC, it should open when pushed. One side of it should go to the "P24" terminal and the other switches should be powered from the other side of the E-stop switch.  This way it will kill power to all of the other switches.  


_Not that this is necessary information since the terminals are customizable, but I plan to use Run=3, Stop=4, Reverse=5 (unless backward), nothing for forward (unless backward), Jog=2, e-Stop=1. So far, does this sound proper?_


So far, so good


_Now the questions about the switches themselves (these are Autonics products in case it matters.)_


_1. The contact blocks for switch functions are all labeled 220VAC, 5A 110VAC,10A. Since these are just on/off switches, no problem, right?_


Right, no problem


_2. The green/yellow buttons are lit by LED contact blocks that are labeled 100-220 VAC, 10mA, but I would think to to work with 24VDC I'd need to buy the 12-30VAC/DC versions. Yes?_


That is correct, you would need 12-30V AC/DC LED blocks




_3. How should the LEDs be powered? 24VDC->LED->L (GND)? _


That is correct, be careful, the VFD only has 100ma of 24VDC to work with.


_4. Is there a way to use the LED blocks that I have if 24VDC won't do it?_


Yes, you can use the internal relay in the VFD, it is rated for up to 250VAC, use the NO contact "AL1", and the common, "AL0"  Set up the relay to close on power up or a "No Fault" condition, something like that.  I haven't read through all of the parameters, so I'm not sure what setting is available.


_5. Are these sorts of buttons normally on when the VFD is powered up? I have a switch to turn power off to the VFD because it normally only sees weekend use. If so, they'd come on with that switch._


That is correct


_6. I lucked out hooking up the pot on my Benchmaster. Is there some way to tell or know which wire is used for what?_


As you are looking at the knob of the pot, the Left terminal goes to "L", Center is the wiper, connect to the "O" terminal, the Right terminal goes to "H" terminal


_Am I missing anything or heading down the wrong path? I appreciate any input._


Looks like you're doing fine

I hope this helps


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## Smudgemo (Feb 27, 2014)

Thanks, Jim.  That's a ton of help and I really appreciate the effort.  

I get what you're saying about the E-stop and how to wire it to shut everything down, but is there any reason not to wire it to terminal #1 and program that for shut down when the switch is closed?  I guess it really doesn't matter as I'd like to replace the yellow button with a red one and will need to place an order anyway, but at least I'd be up and running this weekend with what I've got on hand.

Thanks again.
Ryan


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## JimDawson (Feb 27, 2014)

Smudgemo said:


> Thanks, Jim.  That's a ton of help and I really appreciate the effort.
> 
> I get what you're saying about the E-stop and how to wire it to shut everything down, but is there any reason not to wire it to terminal #1 and program that for shut down when the switch is closed?
> 
> ...




Ideally the E-stop should control a power relay (contactor) to cut the main power to the VFD, but without adding hardware you are not going to be able to do that.  The reason I suggested connecting it the way I did, is to approximate a safety circuit using what you have on hand.

I forgot to mention a couple of things in my previous post

Most industrial type switches of the same brand have interchangeable contact blocks, you might take a close look at yours to see if it is possible to mix and match to get the combination you want.


The other item is I should have mentioned is, on the pot, when you are looking at the knob, the terminals should be up.


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## Smudgemo (Feb 28, 2014)

Got it.  Thanks, Jim.

The VFD came last night so hopefully I'll have time to get it wired up this weekend.

-Ryan


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## rdhem2 (Mar 1, 2014)

Mr. Smudgemo ;

If you have never done this before, congratulations you are right on track.  My bit of comments.

Why the dual stops?  I do not recommend the twist to release mushroom as a safety stop.  Just turn the disconnect off, or unplug the machine.  You won't fall into the trap of "it's not running, must be safe."

I have found the power source on these drives to be minimal.  Even with LEDS I would check the output rating.  This source is more like a reference point rather than a power source. 

I used to try and incorporate the jog function also.  But unless it is on a machine that you can not turn by hand it is pretty much useless as the chuck/spindle never stops in the right place anyway.

You will also find that you do not need a forward input.  Only for reverse.  Or vice-versa.

Hitachi is a very good drive and fairly bullet proof.  Drives are a lot of fun to play with.


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## Smudgemo (Mar 1, 2014)

rdhem2 said:


> Mr. Smudgemo ;
> 
> If you have never done this before, congratulations you are right on track.  My bit of comments.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the input, Russ.  I have only done this once a few weeks ago for my Benchmaster horizontal, but it's a Teco unit and it seems far less complicated in design and how I'm using it.  It was sort of a warm-up for this mill, and I'm excited to get this working because the BM is really wonderful to use now.

But I'm afraid I'm not following you completely, though.  I put a switch in the line prior to the VFD to shut the power off completely.  Admittedly it was more for shutting down overnight or for the week, but it sounds like you are saying to use it for cutter changes, belt changes, anything where a start-up would be a very bad thing?  I wouldn't disagree there if the VFD doesn't suffer.  The mushroom stop was more of an "easy to find" thing if I needed to stop the machine as opposed to a safe-off type of thing.  I hadn't considered this setup as dual stops, but I think I see what you are saying.  Eliminating one could be V2.

Forward isn't wired right now, so I think I'm okay there unless it ends up backwards and I have to change my planned label.  Or parameters.

Could you elaborate on your thoughts regarding the button lighting?  How would you wire them if not via the VFD panel?  They are labeled: _100-220 VAC, 10mA _and are 50/60 hz according to the catalog.  Button lighting isn't critical, but would be a nice touch.

Thanks,
Ryan


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## rdhem2 (Mar 2, 2014)

Good Sir:
I sounds as you may need to hook up your mill as I did my Bridgeport.  I needed a VFD purely for a source of 3 phase power.  The machine came with the original vari-drive so I use that for speed control.  The soft start/stop provided by the VFD is a very nice feature and I utilize that also.  Forward and reverse are mandatory on a Bridgeport for the way it couple to high and low range.  That is pretty much it.

Now for wiring.  I brought a 20a single phase 4 wire circuit via a wall mounted non fusible disconnect into the drive.  This gives me 240v supply for the drive and two 120v sources for auxiliary hook ups.  I use one leg to run my coolant pump and I use the other leg to power up a couple outlets and work lights.  My drive has a continually running fan for cooling so that is another reason for totally powering down the machine when not in use.

If your drive has a run/fault relay built in it could be used to switch your indicator lights.  It could be done via contact blocks on the switches and a 8 pin octal relay.  A bazillion ways to do it but heck isn't it frosting on the cake?  You are standing there watching and hearing it run.  You are aware that it is energized.  But I will agree, they sure look neat.

If she runs backwards at start up.  Power down and swap any two leads to the motor.  That will make your switch labeling right.


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## Smudgemo (Mar 3, 2014)

Thanks for the help, guys.  I got the mill wired up and running this afternoon, but I don't like the buttons as I've got them set up.  I'll get it figured out later, but for now everything is working as expected and doing so perfectly.  I had a box with one fewer holes on hand, so this is what my setup looks like now:




I didn't bother to power up the button lighting for now.  Maybe verison 2.
Best,
Ryan


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## hvontres (Mar 3, 2014)

rdhem2 said:


> Mr. Smudgemo ;
> 
> If you have never done this before, congratulations you are right on track.  My bit of comments.
> 
> ...




Actually, on a mill the Jog is a really nice feature to have. I use it to power tap without having to switch from High to low range. I also like how the spindle stops almost immediately when I let go of the button.


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## AlanR (Mar 3, 2014)

hvontres said:


> Actually, on a mill the Jog is a really nice feature to have. I use it to power tap without having to switch from High to low range. I also like how the spindle stops almost immediately when I let go of the button.


Same here, it's great.


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## AlanR (Mar 3, 2014)

Smudgemo said:


> Thanks for the help, guys.  I got the mill wired up and running this afternoon, but I don't like the buttons as I've got them set up.  I'll get it figured out later, but for now everything is working as expected and doing so perfectly.  I had a box with one fewer holes on hand, so this is what my setup looks like now:


I used a switch similar to the second one down, except momentary contact.

Twist it left, mill runs forward, twist it right, mill runs backwards. I added a small rocker switch which changes the system to the jog mode, flip that switch and the twist switch is then jog forward, jog backwards.

Three switches total (one for stop) including the little rocker switch.


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## Smudgemo (Mar 4, 2014)

Yeah, it's not perfect, but it works well and I'll have plenty of time to refine the setup and play around with the settings.  I'm hoping to use the jog for power tapping at some point, but it's not done properly as is.  Works, but not like a push button.


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## twr (Mar 4, 2014)

Yours looks good i think you will like the jog feature when your done, i have the jog buttons working on mine. I am also in the same boat mine needs abit of refining i am waiting for a RPM gauge right now and a new box mounted to the side where the barrel switch is right now. I am not using the barrel switch at all i just have not removed because of the safety cam for draw bar buttons.


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