# Risers.



## th62 (Apr 15, 2021)

These are a couple of risers I made over the last couple of days.  I couldn't find any I liked so designed and made these.  A little complex to make these, with multiple procedures. I cut a couple of pieces off a 25 mm thick ally slab to rough size, then I worked out which bits to do first, which were the 22mm hole, then the two 6.5mm holes in the top.  After that it was just a matter of chucking the bar clamp end in the four jaw.  Once chucked, I turned it down to 40mm and drilled and tapped the bottom with a 10mm x 1.25 thread.  Then turned it around and turned the top end down to 55mm and angled the leads in with the compound.  Once that was done, I mounted a vertical slide on the cross feed, mounted an arbor with a 2mm slit saw in the chuck and cut the top clamps free.  After that, it was just a matter of drilling the top clamp holes out to 8mm, with a 10 mm recess for the allen heads and tapping the lower holes 8mm x 1.25.  And then polishing, filthy job.  Wife hates it too, tramping black crap all around  the place.  But they turned out pretty good I think.  I was going to make a couple more from some round stock, but these turned out so well, I stopped here.


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## Aukai (Apr 15, 2021)

Very nice...


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## ddillman (Apr 15, 2021)

they look nice. I don't have the patience for polishing


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## Tim9 (Apr 15, 2021)

I love polishing if I have the right machines. I don't like having to rig a buffing wheel to my drill press or lathe. I have the extra pedestal grinders to make some nice buffers....Just don't have the space to set them up.
  But God....when something gets polished the wow factor and personal satisfaction goes through the roof. I love it. Anyway...I just found these buffing wheels that fit on my 4-1/2" grinders. I already have the polish....so when the wool buffing wheels come in, Im going to see how it works out. Thats another tool I love....angle grinders. So damned versatile. 
Oh...Those risers look great TH

Wool buffing wheels for 4-1/2" angle grinders.


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## th62 (Apr 15, 2021)

To speed up the process and get a good job, get yourself an 8" bench grinder, some sewn sisal wheels, sewn cloth wheels and loose leaf wheels to fit.  You'll also need some bars of compound, black for roughing, white for polishing and green if you want to go that far.  An nylon fibre wheel is indispensible if you have really rough surfaces.


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## th62 (Apr 22, 2021)

The new Narva switch arrived a few days ago, still undecided on where to park it??? I made two brackets for it:, one hanging off the rear engine mount, the other a bit further back directly under the side panel. The switch isn't the best looking thing. so I turned up a two piece Delrin cover for it. A ring mount of Delrin with a .6mm lip is mounted between switch and bracket, once hooked up a Delrin cover is pushed over the mounting ring and held in place via a groove I machined inside the cover and the .6mm lip I machined on the the mounting ring. Mounted behind the the rear engine mount the cover is visible, mounted directly under the side panel only the switch face is visible. The cover just acting as a dust cover. Leaning toward the latter mount.


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## FOMOGO (Apr 22, 2021)

Nice work. Is that a Yamaha twin? Cheers, Mike


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## th62 (Apr 22, 2021)

74 TX650.


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## DavidR8 (Apr 22, 2021)

Looking really good!


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## th62 (Apr 22, 2021)

Master cylinder and clutch lever came this morning.  I was going to put a kit through the stock master cylinder and buy a new clutch lever, until I discovered the kit was $78, then I had to fork out out for a new clutch lever as well.  It appears the 74 TX came with a 5/8" master cylinder bore, all other years, the kits are only $35, just my luck.  Anyway, I did some googling and found a master cylinder and clutch lever combo on Banggood for $65, so bought them.  Pretty well made, levers are adjustable, but do require a largish hand, even on the closest setting.  Levers are well made, master cylinder casting is a little rough, but good enough.  I did want black bars with polished aluminium fittings, but settled for the opposite, chrome bars, polished aluminium risers and black fittings.  They look all right though.


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## th62 (May 7, 2021)

Some work on the rear end: The guard was badly dented and had a couple of cracks running out from the tail light fixing holes. I cut the lip from the periphery off, removed some dents as best I could and removed the bracing underneath at the rear end of the guard. The cracks I removed by drilling a bloody great hole, around 48mm, in the mounting area. This left a bit of problem on how to mount the new tail light. The solution was to insert a big grommet in the hole with a 38mm ID hole, next I spun up an aluminium bush to fit inside the grommet with a 50mm lip to compress the grommet. The tail light base was fashioned from 3mm steel with a 10mm nut welded in the middle. Over that I welded a bit of 30mm square tube and welded a flat plate on the other end the same shape as the tail light. Next I mounted the bracket on the mill and drilled some lightning holes. A 10mm fixing bolt was drilled through for cabling access to the light. I was worried about the tail light twisting in the grommet there being just one bolt securing it, but when done up, it proved to be solid as. Off to buy some paint this afternoon, so tomorrow I'll prep everything for paint and lay down some gloss black.


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## th62 (May 8, 2021)

A nice new brake anchor made up today.  Looks better than the old crusty steel one.  Made from a slab of 10mm aluminium, cranked 12 mm and shaved down to 7mm on the leading edge.


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## th62 (May 10, 2021)

Today I messed around with the single points cam I made a while back. As you can see in the first two pictures the lobes were slightly off: when the right hand cylinder was timed correctly the left was slightly advanced, not a great deal, split the difference and have the right a smidgin retarded and the left a smidgin advance and it would run fine, But just to satisfy myself, I decided to see how close I could get them, after all I'm working with minute measurements here, so pulled out the files. As it happened, I managed to get them spot on, statically timed anyway, with very little work. The problem now is the keyway is slightly off, so the points backing plate has to be turned fully clockwise in order the get the timing right. So, now I know it is possible to get the lobes right, harder though is the keyway: I turned the cam around and set the backing plate midway, with the cam running free (no key) on the advance shaft, I turned the cam by finger and and marked where the keyway should be cut, unfortunately, you only halve to be a smidgin out to ruin it, and you guessed it, I was that smidgin out. So, tomorrow I'll make another cam, but this time I'll try cutting the keyway first and then filing the ramps. Fingers crossed. BTW, this was the problem with the commercially available cams, the lobes weren't set 180 degrees apart, making timing difficult. Many of the XS650 shops don't stock them anymore for this reason.


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## th62 (May 12, 2021)

Doesn't look like anyone on this platform is interested in bike builds, so this will be my last post here.


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## Aukai (May 12, 2021)

I check in on your posts, good work being done


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