# Southbend Heavy 10 Spindle Endplay



## EarlH (Apr 5, 2011)

During a recent quest to improve the turning finish on my 10L, I tightened up the split nut on the left end of the spindle. This greatly improved the turning finish as well as put a little load on the back gears and made them run almost silently! I was extremely happy with the results until I went to dial in some stock in the 4 jaw chuck. I found it extremely difficult to rotate the spindle without loosening up the split nut. Here is my question - Has anyone replaced the fibere washer on the left end of the headstock with a Torrington type bearing? If so, please share your experience.

Thanks,
Earl


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## Tony Wells (Apr 5, 2011)

You'll need to be careful of the preload, but that is a good modification. A spring or wave washer would be a good addition in the proper location to allow for thermal expansion. Thrust bearing is what it is called. Torrington is a maker.


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## EarlH (Apr 5, 2011)

Tony,
Thanks for the terminology correction. The only radial needle bearings (my terminology again) I have seen in a thrust bearing application were made by Torrington. I don't know if other people manufacture those or not. Their advantage is that they are much thinner than ball types, provide a greater bearing area and don't require a special race. The spindle speeds that are run on the SouthBend lathes are slow enough that speed should not be a factor in bearing type selection.

Dave,
What type of bearing did you use on your 9A? Where did you source them from?

Thanks,
Earl


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## Tony Wells (Apr 5, 2011)

Earl, Torrington is by far the most common manufacturer of that type of bearing. Not to sound preachy, but they are called either cylindrical roller thrust bearings, or needle thrust bearings. Also, they do require a hardened, flat race in the form of a washer. Normally, one is used on each side. Exception being a hardened shoulder, for example. not common. The races come in two flavors, one made for shafts, and one made for housings. Each respectively fits closely on a shaft or in a housing, to control race movement. 

Torrington, SKF, and Timken are the major players.


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## EarlH (Apr 6, 2011)

Just went into the shop and looked at the lathe again. There does not appear to be enough room to put a bearing at the left end of the spindle. Even if I cut down the split nut as much as I could and removed the fiber washer, I would still only have about 75 -80 thou to work with.  I'm now considering a wavy washer to load the spindle. Need to think about that.


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## HMF (Apr 6, 2011)

Maybe this can help?

"How_to_Replace_Spindle_Fiber_Discs_With_Thrust_Bearings"

http://hobby-machinist.com/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=124

Best,

Nelson


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## EarlH (Apr 6, 2011)

Thanks Nelson.  That answers almost all of my questions. Part numbers and all.  I do appreciate it.  The one remaining question is if the left end spindle gear can be removed without taking the spindle out of the headstock? The spindle is the last remaining mystery on my 10L. I have had the headstock apart - new wicks, shimmed bearings, lift tested, etc but I have not taken the spindle down. I have had everything else apart - down to the last nut and bolt (or should I say pin). 

Earl


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## EarlH (Apr 6, 2011)

thanks knudsen, but I do have the complete parts book for the 10L.  The part numbers I was referring to were for the new thrust bearings. The question is, Can I take the spindle gear off without removing the spindle?  The reason that I ask that is that I know I can't get the spindle out without cutting the belt. I really don't want to do that. I don't think it is long enough to re-skive and put back together. I am not interested in using a serpentine belt and I don't want to spend another hundred bucks for a new belt. 
Earl


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