# Next project:  Craftsman 101.07301 6" lathe



## LX Kid (Jan 27, 2020)

Picked up a Craftsman 101.07301 for cheap.  Haven't spent a lot of time checking it out as I'm still working on my SB 9A restoration.  I did find that I had to order a complete back gear assembly, handwheel and half-nuts and as luck would have it I do already have a 1/3hp to use.  A 1/2 hp is better but I need to use this motor and they came with a 1/3 hp anyway. It came with a 3-jaw and 4-jaw chuck and otherwize a complete minus the afor  mentioned.  Guess this lathe was mfg Circa 1957.  Before I put too much time in this project I'll need to finish the SB 9A which is about 90% complete.  I'll post a coupe of pics of my rusty lathe a little later.


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## wa5cab (Jan 28, 2020)

LX Kid.

Your new (to you) lathe could have been made in 1957 (the last year that they were made).  However, it could also, from what you have posted, have been made in 1939 (the first year they were made).  Why don't you report the vital statistics on it in the thread in the sticky area at the top of this Forum?


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## LX Kid (Jan 28, 2020)

Just don't have the time to get much deeper into the 101.07301 at the moment.   Here is a link over in the South Bend forum of the one I'm currently working on if interested.









						South Bend 9A restoration happening w/pics!!
					

I bought a SB 9A off eBay and should be here in a week or 10 days.  In my "enthusiasm" I didn't check everything in detail and will need a lot of work and parts.  I plan on salvaging and swapping parts off my 9C to make it complete and original.  Here are a few pics of what I'm dealing with...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


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## wa5cab (Jan 28, 2020)

OK.  When you get a round tuit.


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## LX Kid (Jan 30, 2020)

Received my back gear assembly yesterday and was pleasantly surprised that it is "new" old stock.   I'm having to wait so long for my parts to come in for my SB 9A that I really wan to dive into this Craftsman.  If I did that I would have parts strewn out everywhere and afraid things would get lost or misplaced.   Everything is locked up with gunk except the headstock spindle.    Couple days ago I did manage to disassemble the 4-jaw chuck, cleaned and lubricated it and now works smooth.  I looked around my shop and found a complete set of change gears that I've had for probably 15 years.   Also have another complete set of change gears but don't know what they fit.  Here's a few more pics.


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## LX Kid (Jan 30, 2020)

Front and back pics.


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## LX Kid (Feb 19, 2020)

Ordered a couple of generic handwheels from China and will adapt one to fit.


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## LX Kid (Mar 1, 2020)

Let the entertanment begin!  Started digging into this Craftsman /Atlas mini-lathe this morning.  I decided to do the bed first so that as I finished each component I could just put in on the bed to get it out of the way.  As usual these old lathes are "NASTY!"  Here's a few pics to get things moving on restoration project done by the mentally insane!  LoL


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## LX Kid (Mar 1, 2020)

Some more pics.  Completed the lathe bed this afternoon.


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## LX Kid (Mar 1, 2020)

Tomorrow morning I'll start on the saddle, apron and compound cleaning and painting.  Gotta start a list for the broken or missing  items.  I bought a couple of outside faucet handles to use on broken handles.


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## LX Kid (Mar 1, 2020)

The iron handwheels finally came in from China "but" they were toy model car rims.  They said "oops" and refunded my money.  After cleaning up the lead screw it really looks good.  The gears is missing the gear that goes on the lead screw.


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## wa5cab (Mar 1, 2020)

LX Kid,

We are still waiting on the machine serial number and any other info you want to include.

Judging from the nameplate you showed, the serial number should be stamped into the top of the front way near the right end.  It may have letter(s) prefix and/or suffix to the digits.

Although I am working on one, it won;t be ready any time soon.  But Atlas or Sears never did an exploded view parts manual on the 101.07301.  So from Downloads get the 101.07301 parts list that we do have plus download the 1950 version of the Atlas 618 manual.  Much of it is the same except for part of the headstock.  and part of the countershaft and the bed and legs.  In particular, the Lead Screw and Feed Gear assembly is the same.  As it originally shipped, the 101.07301 had five gears and one spacer installed on the machine plus another 9 gears and two spacers loose.  The five on the machine were a 64T in the Back position on the lead screw followed by a spacer on the front position.  The other four gears were another 64T, a 48T, a 24T and a 20T.  This was set up for 0.0048" feed.


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## LX Kid (Mar 1, 2020)

Here is the serial number on the bed.  It didn't have any prefix letters just the number. ( # 21745 )  Still checking things out one component at a time.  I did notice the spindle has some play in it and hope nothing serious.  Maybe next day or two I'll get to cleaning and checking out the headstock.


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## wa5cab (Mar 2, 2020)

I'm sorry but that serial number is 186,486 higher than the next highest that we have (30965).  From which I have to conclude that either the 2 or the 1 is either a letter or a scratch.  At your convenience, please post a close-up photo of the number.

Sounds as though you are making some progress.  

On the spindle looseness, one mistake that you don't want to make is trying to reduce the running clearance by tightening the fillister head screws that secure the bushings.  About the only thing that you can accomplish is mangling the slot in the screw head or breaking the casting.  Last time that anyone checked, Clausing still stocked the two bushings.  If you ask when you place the order, they will now ship via USPS Pri Mail, which will be cheaper than UPS's 1 pound minimum.  You can probable find a replacement for them locally but will probably have to shorten them to make them fit.  FYI the bushings are sintered bronze (AKA Oilite), not solid brass.  They should come pre-filled with oil and you do not need to add a hole in them to let the oil from the cups (SAE 20 or ISO 68 ND) through.  That is the second mistake that many make.


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## LX Kid (Mar 2, 2020)

Here's a poc.  The last number may not be a number.  Hard to say.


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## wa5cab (Mar 2, 2020)

Your serial number is 21745.  Note that the scratch following the "5" does not look anything like the "1" in position 2 (no sign of there ever having been a _ at the bottom for starters).  Best guess is that it was made some time in 1947.  This is based on the serial number and the assumption that War-time production was higher than after the War.


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## FanMan (Mar 2, 2020)

Not to hijack the thread, but  where does my serial number (6L 025448) put my lathe (also an 07301) in the production years?


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## wa5cab (Mar 2, 2020)

A rough estimate would be late 1951 or early 1952.


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## LX Kid (Mar 2, 2020)

Oh no something is missing!!!!  The half nut mount!  I could have sworn that I had it but but have looked everywhere.


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## wa5cab (Mar 2, 2020)

It would appear that you probably do.  Your 3rd, 7th and 8th photos are all show the carriage in place on the bed and the lead screw installed.  The only way that those photos could have been made without the half nuts and the half nut guide being present would be to remove the lead screw, remove the  half nuts and guide, and reinstall the lead screw without the half nuts and guide being present.

Be advised that when Atlas changed (widened) the half nuts from M6-12 to M6-12A they also changed (widened) the guide from M6-13 to M6-13A,  According to the two 618 parts lists, That happened between 1945 and 1950,  So unless the old and the new half nuts are the same size, you should have bought a new guide with the new half nuts as they are not interchangeable.


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## LX Kid (Mar 2, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> It would appear that you probably do.  Your 3rd, 7th and 8th photos are all show the carriage in place on the bed and the lead screw installed.  The only way that those photos could have been made without the half nuts and the half nut guide being present would be to remove the lead screw, remove the  half nuts and guide, and reinstall the lead screw without the half nuts and guide being present.
> 
> Be advised that when Atlas changed (widened) the half nuts from M6-12 to M6-12A they also changed (widened) the guide from M6-13 to M6-13A,  According to the two 618 parts lists, That happened between 1945 and 1950,  So unless the old and the new half nuts are the same size, you should have bought a new guide with the new half nuts as they are not interchangeable.


Thanks for that info.  I'll have to look into that as soon as I can.  When I bought the lathe the broken half nuts were in a box with other junk.  Last night I disassembled the 3-jaw, cleaned and lubed everything and it works nicely now.  I still seem to think that I remember seeing the guide but can't locate it anywhere so maybe it was just my imagination.  LoL


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## LX Kid (Mar 2, 2020)

This afternoon I disassembled the headstock and found a couple of problems.  The spindle shaft journals have solid bronze bushings in both ends with no slit adjustment or hole in them for lubrication.  The pulleys have been shimmed with a steel shim on the shaft and still has a little wobble.  Someone has run a small screw in the bull gear and locked up the pin.  Problem is that the screw head is fouled and I'll have to make a slot in it so I can back it out.  I wonder if there are "new" bronze bushings for the pulley.

*UPDATE @10pm :   I was wrong about the screw on the bull gear.  It was just a short screw someone had put in there for no reason.  The tiny allen head screw down at the bottom, for ball and spring, seems stripped.  I forced the locking pin out and found it buggard so I cleaned it up with a small file.  I also ordered a used 4-groove pulley off ebay and hope it better than the one I have.*
'


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## LX Kid (Mar 3, 2020)

Cleaned and painted the headstock and tailstock this morning.  Have an issue with the tailstock spindle locking pieces.  They are frozen in their holes and am thinking the only thing I could do is drill them out and replace them.  (Hopeing new parts can be found.)  The locking screw is still in so I would only be able to drill out the top one and maybe pound the bottom one thru the bottom.  Should I remove the spindle oil fills out of the supports and drill oil holes thru the bronze bushings.  Oil has no way of getting to the spindle and is probably why the 4-pulley bushings wore out and was necessary to add shim stock. In that area of the spindle you can see where it wore becasue someone had added steel shim stock instead of brass.


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## wa5cab (Mar 3, 2020)

A spindle normally rotates or in a few cases has a part that rotates around it.  The internally threaded part with a 1MT taper in the left end is called a ram.

AFAIK, all of the bushings used in the various Atlas lathes are sintered bronze, commonly called oilite after the company that first made them.  None have an "oil hole" because they do not need one.  And none that I know of are split or slitted for adjustment.  In particular, the two bushings in the spindle 4-step cone pulley and gear have an oil plug screw in the bottom of one of the belt grooves.  It is NOT supposed to be threaded all of the way through.  This hole is between the two bushings.  The owner was supposed to remove this screw about weekly and inject some SAE 20 ND oil.  If these bushings wear, they should have been replaced, not shimmed.  If new bushings are a loose fit on the spindle, the spindle should be replaced.

The standard way to remove the tailstock ram locks is to first soak them with penetrating oil and attempt to use a hollow receiver and hex nut to draw them out.  If that doesn't work, remove the tailstock from the tailstock base and confirm that the hole goes all of the way through.  If it does, press them out the bottom.  The upper and lower locks are also used on the 10", both 12" and the mill.  When last I checked they were still available new.


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## LX Kid (Mar 3, 2020)

After 4 hours of assembly and disassembly trying to make shims for the spndle plulley, "there is something wrong!!!!!!"  See that darn belt?  Some jerk forgot to put the belt on! (I know who that jerk is too.  LoL)

Also I have one extra part that I can't find where it goes.  It's a tiny little set screw.  I checked all over the headstock amd don't see any holes where it should go.  Spoke too soon.  The set screw is for the spindle locking collar.

Well tomorrow is another day.  "I'm tired and my fingers hurt!"   Someone please give me some cheeze to go with my "whine!"


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## LX Kid (Mar 3, 2020)

I've looked all over the web and can't find a clamp nut guide.  If someone could draw me a picture with dimensions I could probably mill one.


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## LX Kid (Mar 3, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> If these bushings wear, they should have been replaced, not shimmed.  If new bushings are a loose fit on the spindle, the spindle should be replaced.
> The standard way to remove the tailstock ram locks is to first soak them with penetrating oil and attempt to use a hollow receiver and hex nut to draw them out.  If that doesn't work, remove the tailstock from the tailstock base and confirm that the hole goes all of the way through.  If it does, press them out the bottom.



Well the headstock bearings now have a lube hole, needed or not, and the spindle pulley is shimmed nicely.  The top ram lock is flanged on top and has to come out the top when working properly.


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## LX Kid (Mar 3, 2020)

I went back out and tried to put the belt on and everything went South on me so I punched out the old bushings.  I decided to try my hand at reaming out bronze bushings.  I ordered oversize bushings from Amazon.  If the used one is still not a good fit I'll lathe down the that area of the spindle by .005" to clean up the damage.  Bore out the pulley bore, ream and lathe down the bushings to fit bore as well as reaming the bushings to fit the spindle.  I'm still waiting for my used pulley to arrive.


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## wa5cab (Mar 3, 2020)

I once had an architect working for me as an ME who also thought that "lathe" was a verb like "mill" is.  It may be in some languages but not in English.
You should call Clausing and see whether or not they still have the four bushings that fit the spindle.  If not, ask them to send you the drawings.


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## LX Kid (Mar 4, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> I once had an architect working for me as an ME who also thought that "lathe" was a verb like "mill" is.  It may be in some languages but not in English.
> You should call Clausing and see whether or not they still have the four bushings that fit the spindle.  If not, ask them to send you the drawings.


That was a great idea!  I called and they had several of the parts I needed.  Two important ones were the tailstock spindle locks and the clamp nut guide.  Thanks


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## wa5cab (Mar 4, 2020)

Not trying to belabor nomenclature, but the usual names are tailstock ram (a spindle either turns or sometimes has something that turns on it).  The tailstock ram hopefully never turns!  And clamp nuts are called either half nuts or split nuts.


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## LX Kid (Mar 5, 2020)

Correct me if I'm understanding it wrong.  I was studying the spindle and the pulleys on it.  When the bull gear is engaged, which has the woodruff key, the spindle is turned by the pulley.  When the back gear is engaged, and bull gear disengaged, the large back gear drives the spindle on the small gear.   When selected to neutral, and bull gear engaged, it's the bull gear locking pin that drives the spindle.  Question, "at what point does the pulley spin free on the spindle shaft that will cause the kind of damage that I see on my spindle caused by the pulley?"


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## LX Kid (Mar 5, 2020)

Need a handle for your cross slide or traverse?  Here's what I made.   I used faucet handles and threaded it with a nut on the front and back sides.   The small faucet handles for the six in lathes and the larger faucet handles for the larger lathes.  Gets a little tight for the  fingers between the two handles but is manageable.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Mar 5, 2020)

when the back gear is engaged and the bull gear pin pulled out, the motor drives the spindle pulley/ sheave, which drives the back gear, which then drives the bull gear and spindle. The spindle pulley/ sheave rotates on the spindle and lack of oiling (or some weird azz metal shim) will cause that wear.

for your handles, be aware that it's really easy to run out of space between the cross slide dial and the compound when the cross slide is wound towards the operator for larger work.


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## LX Kid (Mar 5, 2020)

mattthemuppet2 said:


> when the back gear is engaged and the bull gear pin pulled out, the motor drives the spindle pulley/ sheave, which drives the back gear, which then drives the bull gear and spindle. The spindle pulley/ sheave rotates on the spindle and lack of oiling (or some weird azz metal shim) will cause that wear.
> 
> for your handles, be aware that it's really easy to run out of space between the cross slide dial and the compound when the cross slide is wound towards the operator for larger work.


Thanks for the response.  it's like an old friend of mine often said, "You pay less you get less!"  The faucet handle was a dollar and the ball crank handle is around $40.  Soooooo, "Bubba can get-r-done" on the cheap!   LoL  Fast and easy temporary fix.   Seems like I know someone, real close, that could use his lathe and mill to make something a little better when time allows.

I had to look up the word "sheave" and now understand that the pulley spins freely on an axle/shaft and is not secured to that axle/shaft.  Now a  tortured mind knows the meaning!  LoL


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## LX Kid (Mar 5, 2020)

The locks of the tailstock ram were really frozen in the tailstock.  I use drill bits to drill the locks out and then finally used a pin punch to break them loose from the tailstock wall.  Fortunately Clausing Lathe had the parts for it as well as the half nut guide.


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## wa5cab (Mar 5, 2020)

Just to be sure everyone understands how the Atlas lathe spindle drive systems all work (except for the MK2 6" and the 1/2" bed 12" cabinet or under-drive models), start with the direct drive pin pushed into one of the holes in the spindle pulley, the back gears disengaged' the set screw in the bull gear hub tightened on the Woodruff key in the spindle and with all of the belts installed.  If you start the motor, the motor drives the motor pulley.  The motor pulley drives the motor belt which in turn drives the large 2-step pulley on the countershaft.  The 2-step pulley drives the countershaft  which drives the countershaft cone pulley.  The cone pulley drives the spindle belt which drives the spindle cone pulley.  The spindle pulley drives the direct drive pin which drives the bull gear which drives the spindle through the Woodruff key.   In this configuration, the back gears do nothing and the small spindle gear turns but does nothing else.

In this configuration, if you pull the direct drive pin out as far as it will go towards the tailstock the spindle cone pulley spins on the spindle and nothing else happens.  The bull gear and spindle should not move.

If you then engage the back gears, the spindle pulley turns the small spindle gear.  It turns the large end of the back gear which turns the small end gear which turns the bull gear which turns the spindle at about 1/6 of the RPM that it turns in direct drive.  The spindle pulley turns at about 6X the speed of the spindle, hence the need for the three (two on the 6") bronze bushings in the cone pulley and small spindle gear.  Which is why that steel sleeve inside the cone pulley on your machine mangled the spindle.


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## LX Kid (Mar 7, 2020)

My new/old pulley sheave arrived today and wouldn't you just know that the bushings are oversize by .021" and won't fit the spindle.  I know I could ream the bushings but will wait for the new bushings to arrive for my original pulley sheave and try boring/reaming them to fit my spindle after I remove .006" from it to clean it up.


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## LX Kid (Mar 7, 2020)

Just can't get any breaks!  I assembled the half nut guide and it just doesn't want to work properly.  When I tighten the two attaching screws it locks down and won't open and close.  When I loosen the screws it will function but but will not open fully.  The detent ball will not set and is off by a few thou.  I'm thinking of enlarging the apron holes a few thou to let things work properly.  Maybe reducing the screw head diameter may let it settle in and work properly.  Have to continue the investigation of this problem tomorrow.  Also I don't have the fillister screws and am using junk box screws and it may be making a difference.

On the Craftsman 6" does the half nut lever work opposite of South Bend 9's?  Moving lever up opens the half nuts and down closes them on my Craftsman.


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## wa5cab (Mar 8, 2020)

Head diameter of standard binding head screws is noticeably larger than fillister head.  Round head are usually in between.  Socket head is about the same diameter as fillister.  Both are commonly used in counter-bored holes.  If you cannot find fillister, look for socket.

On all of the Atlas built machines, the half-nut levers work the same.  The few larger lathes that I've had my hands on (up to about 72" I think) have also all worked the same, up is open, down is closed.  I wasn't aware that SB was backwards.


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## LX Kid (Mar 8, 2020)

I got the half nuts working properly thru a little fitting and moding.  I don't think these Atlas guide and half nuts are exactly the same as Craftsman parts.  The half nuts were a little thick so I had to file them down flush especially around the two pins as well as the guide.  The casting was a little rough for smooth operation.  I bought a couple of 1/4 x 20 x 5/8" allen head screw and that helped a lot.  Rounded the detent pockets a little so the detent ball would lock in.


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## wa5cab (Mar 8, 2020)

Well, I hate to say it but it wouldn't much surprise me to learn that Clausing has outsourced some of their parts to China.  But you should definitely call Clausing and let them know that the parts didn't fit until you worked on them a little.  

By any chance, before you finally assembled the parts onto the carriage apron, did you check whether or not the old worn-out half-nuts would fit into the guide?  It would be good to know whether the new half nuts were a little too thick or the slots in the guide were a little too thin.


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## LX Kid (Mar 8, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> By any chance, before you finally assembled the parts onto the carriage apron, did you check whether or not the old worn-out half-nuts would fit into the guide?  It would be good to know whether the new half nuts were a little too thick or the slots in the guide were a little too thin.



Threw the broken ones away shortly after buying the lathe.   (Big mistake but it "seems" to have worked out for me.)


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## LX Kid (Mar 8, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> Be advised that when Atlas changed (widened) the half nuts from M6-12 to M6-12A they also changed (widened) the guide from M6-13 to M6-13A,  According to the two 618 parts lists, That happened between 1945 and 1950,  So unless the old and the new half nuts are the same size, you should have bought a new guide with the new half nuts as they are not interchangeable.


I do have the M6-12A and M6-13A replacement parts but still didn't fit correctly.  I believe the cam is the problem but have worked around it to make it work properly.  Thanks for that info.


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## LX Kid (Mar 8, 2020)

My new bushings arrived today so I drilled out the sheave with an 15/16 drill bit, pressed them in and polished the spindle down about .005" for a nice fit.  Instead of using a 1/2" bushing on the scarred part of the spindle I used a 3/4" bushing for better support.   Everything worked out fine except for my Chinese set of adjustable reamers.  They "suck" combined with I never used them before after owning the 10 years and was a struggle.  So I just drilled out the sheave and all is good!


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## LX Kid (Mar 9, 2020)

Getting close to completion.  After puting the saddle assembly on the bed I found that the compound handle that I made hits the fingers due to it's closeness to the traverse handle . So I cut the outer ring off and knurled the outside of the inner ring and works quite well now.  Will start working on counter-balance assembly and motor next.  Waiting on three gears to arrive.


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## LX Kid (Mar 9, 2020)

I have one left over part and I don't think it goes to this lathe.  Anyone recognize it?  Looks newish and may have come with a few parts in a little box that came with the lathe.  Fits a 1/2" shaft.

Still waiting for some gears to arrive with the sleeves and have to mount the motor and counter-balance.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Mar 9, 2020)

it's a spacer for the change gears


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## LX Kid (Mar 9, 2020)

mattthemuppet2 said:


> it's a spacer for the change gears


Thanks.  When my gears arrive I'll check it out.


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## LX Kid (Mar 12, 2020)

All my gears, spacers and gear inserts arrived today and I put it all together.  My motivation is slowing down the last couple days and have been moving slow on the restoration.  I have to make a tailstock locking handle, buy a 3/4" base board, install the motor and counter-balance assembly.  Just kinda moving in slow motion!


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## LX Kid (Mar 13, 2020)

mattthemuppet2 said:


> it's a spacer for the change gears


Yes it was for the 64T that goes on the end of the lead screw.  There was already one on it, but as luck would have it, that one was broken so I'm glad I had it.

Only thing I got done today was to make a tailstock ram locking handle.  Temperature all week has been in the 80's and next week is looking the same.  "We didn't have a winter or spring.  Seems to have gone straight to summer!"


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## wa5cab (Mar 13, 2020)

FYI, to be able to do every thread on the chart, you need a total of two spacers.  However, unless both are in use elsewhere, you can in some cases substitute a 20T gear or any other unused gear so long as the gear being used as a spacer doesn't touch the gear before it and/or the gear after it.  But for some strange reason, the requirement to have two 9-113A spacers isn't shown on any of the parts lists that I have.  However, the only places that the 10F threading chat calls out a second (SS) for Steel Spacer is for 0.005" and 0.006" feeds and for 0.5 mm pitch threads.  FWIW, a 20T gear with a broken tooth (or any gear for that matter although the larger gears would take more time)) can be converted into a 9-113A by turning all of the teeth off.  So if any of you have any gears with bad teeth, don't throw them away.  The second spacer is often missing.


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## FanMan (Mar 13, 2020)

Seems a spacer would be a simple thing to make... you have a lathe, after all...


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## wa5cab (Mar 14, 2020)

The problem is the double keyway that is required everywhere except with the screw gear,  There you could get away with a single keyway.


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## phubbman (Mar 19, 2020)

By the way, that's a slick Bubba fix on the cross slide handle.  Nice.



LX Kid said:


> Getting close to completion.  After puting the saddle assembly on the bed I found that the compound handle that I made hits the fingers due to it's closeness to the traverse handle . So I cut the outer ring off and knurled the outside of the inner ring and works quite well now.  Will start working on counter-balance assembly and motor next.  Waiting on three gears to arrive.


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## LX Kid (Mar 23, 2020)

Got a little motivated and made a platform yesterday.  This morning I did some layout planning and decided to put the motor on the "right" side of the counter-shaft instead of the left in order to save some footprint space.   I ordered a longer belt to be able to move the motor further back away from the lathe bed.


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## phubbman (Mar 24, 2020)

Looking at your pics i notice that the sheave on the jack shaft is a single.  The original motor and jack shaft sheaves were paired double pulleys to achieve the full range of speeds for this lathe.  The single speed setup should get you started, but you might want to look into getting (or making) the proper paired double sheaves.  My experience is limited, but i'll bet you'll want the full range of speeds this lathe has to offer.
paulh




LX Kid said:


> Got a little motivated and made a platform yesterday.  This morning I did some layout planning and decided to put the motor on the "right" side of the counter-shaft instead of the left in order to save some footprint space.   I ordered a longer belt to be able to move the motor further back away from the lathe bed.


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## LX Kid (Mar 24, 2020)

phubbman said:


> Looking at your pics i notice that the sheave on the jack shaft is a single.  The original motor and jack shaft sheaves were paired double pulleys to achieve the full range of speeds for this lathe.  The single speed setup should get you started, but you might want to look into getting (or making) the proper paired double sheaves.  My experience is limited, but i'll bet you'll want the full range of speeds this lathe has to offer.
> paulh


The jack shaft does have the four pulley sheave on it that aligns with the headstock sheave.  Or are you speaking of the pulley that is being driven by the motor?   Looking at the parts list manual I don't see a double shaft sheave for the jack shaft.  Yes, my motor is a replacement motor that I had laying around with no pulley so I bought pulley M6-27 single row.  The double row is M6-29 and that will be up to the new owner if he wants to purchase it along with a change gear set.  I think most owners never even cut threads and opt out for dies instead.  Dies are so much more easy to get the job done.

On page 9 of the Speed Chart it does show a picture of a double row pulley on the jack shaft but don't see it listed, "as such", in the parts breakdown.


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## wa5cab (Mar 25, 2020)

The motor belt pulleys are both two-step.  That is how the machine gets all 16 speeds.  M6-27 is the left lead screw bearing and M6-29 is the half-nut or split-nut lever.  The two pulleys are M6-427 and either M6-428 (1/2" motor shaft) or M6-429 (5/8" motor shaft).  Both are and always have been 2-step.  The reason that the M6-427 in the illustrated parts lists only shows the larger step is that from the angle that they always seem to have been drawn you cannot see the smaller step.  The early parts lists say (2 step).  There are no parts lists with the later illustrated parts drawings.

Also, the slower speed settings are not just for thread cutting.

The only 6" metal-working lathes that Atlas ever built that only had 8 speeds were the MK-2's.


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## LX Kid (Mar 25, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> The motor belt pulleys are both two-step.  That is how the machine gets all 16 speeds.  M6-27 is the left lead screw bearing and M6-29 is the half-nut or split-nut lever.  The two pulleys are M6-427 and either M6-428 (1/2" motor shaft) or M6-429 (5/8" motor shaft).  Both are and always have been 2-step.  The reason that the M6-427 in the illustrated parts lists only shows the larger step is that from the angle that they always seem to have been drawn you cannot see the smaller step.  The early parts lists say (2 step).  There are no parts lists with the later illustrated parts drawings.
> 
> Also, the slower speed settings are not just for thread cutting.
> 
> The only 6" metal-working lathes that Atlas ever built that only had 8 speeds were the MK-2's.


For my Craftsman it's kind of a moot point.  Soon as it's finished it will be up for sale.


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## LX Kid (Mar 29, 2020)

I have a couple of treadmill motors and have decided to use one of them, with a DC controller, for this lathe.   It's 1.5 hp with an rpm of 4900.  That way I can do away with the counter shaft assembly and be able to have a infinite chuck speed.  (Rpm faster than the law/mfg allows. LoL)   Converted the AC power supply to DC by adding in a bridge rectifier and changing out the potentiometer to a smaller 200k ohm.


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## LX Kid (Mar 29, 2020)

Anyone have a work around for heavy power surge when starting motor?  Here's a link over in the Electrical forum.  Maybe some sort of resistor/capacitor network to ramp up power?









						14amp DC motor surge work around?
					

I'm planning on using a treadmill 100v DC, 14amp, 2.5hp motor for my 6" swing lathe.  I bought a cheap regulated AC power supply and converted it to DC by adding a bridge rectifier and a smaller 200k ohm potentiometer.  It works fine "except" it really draws current when starting and shoots...




					www.hobby-machinist.com


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## LX Kid (Mar 30, 2020)

Guess I solved my surge problem.  I added a coil choke to the neg side of the motor and no more dimming of my lights and sparks shooting out the back.  Just has a smooth operation.


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## wa5cab (Mar 30, 2020)

One thing that you need to keep in mind here is that you are putting a 1,5 HP motor onto a machine that is only rated for a 1/3 HP one.  So you need to limit the input to the motor somehow.  If you don't, sooner or later you are going to break something.  The fact that the motor that you are using is a variable speed DC one instead of a single-phase or 3-phase AC one is immaterial.


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## LX Kid (Mar 30, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> One thing that you need to keep in mind here is that you are putting a 1,5 HP motor onto a machine that is only rated for a 1/3 HP one.  So you need to limit the input to the motor somehow.  If you don't, sooner or later you are going to break something.  The fact that the motor that you are using is a variable speed DC one instead of a single-phase or 3-phase AC one is immaterial.



Yes that thought has already occurred to  me.  Got any suggestions how I might limit the speed to 1800 rpm?  I've had these two DC motors awhile and just trying to find a use for them.  Could just go ahead with the original 1/3hp motor and maybe a use will come at a late date for the DC motors.

Maybe using the original power supply form the treadmill might take care of this problem.  I'm sure the treadmill wasn't spinning at 4900 rpm.


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## DavidR8 (Mar 30, 2020)

LX Kid said:


> Yes that thought has already occurred to  me.  Got any suggestions how I might limit the speed to 1800 rpm?  I've had these two DC motors awhile and just trying to find a use for them.  Could just go ahead with the original 1/3hp motor and maybe a use will come at a late date for the DC motors.


Since you're selling it I wouldn't put the DC motor on it.


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## LX Kid (Mar 30, 2020)

DavidR8 said:


> Since you're selling it I wouldn't put the DC motor on it.


That's true but it's nice to play around with "feasible" ideas to see if it works successfully.  Boredom soon relieves a man from his money with his dumb ideas!  LoL

Been toying around with making a belt sander and could use one for it.  (As soon as I learn to weld a little better, being a beginner, that hasn't even started to learn to use my welder.  "Tool junky!")


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## wa5cab (Mar 30, 2020)

You don't need to limit the motor RPM to 1800.  You merely pick what you want to be the maximum spindle RPM (which strangely enough for the 101.07301 and 618 could be anything up to 3225) by using the largest step on the spindle cone pulley and picking the motor pulley diameter to give that with the motor at its maximum rated RPM.

What you need to do if your variable voltage AC supply doesn't already is to add a current limiter circuit to your system.  One HP mechanical is 746 Watts electrical.  And Watts equals Volts times Amperes.  So 1/3 HP equals 249 Watts and if the DC motor is a nominal 180 VDC one, then 1/3 HP @ 180 VDC is 1.38 Amperes DC.  Ideally, the current limit should vary inversely with the upstream voltage.  So with the voltage set to nominal 1/2 speed which we will assume would be 80 VDC, the current limit should rise to 2.76 A.  If it isn't a 180 VDC machine, the adjust all of the figures accordingly.

However, the motor controller is fast becoming quite complex.


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## LX Kid (Mar 30, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> You don't need to limit the motor RPM to 1800.  You merely pick what you want to be the maximum spindle RPM (which strangely enough for the 101.07301 and 618 could be anything up to 3225) by using the largest step on the spindle cone pulley and picking the motor pulley diameter to give that with the motor at its maximum rated RPM.
> 
> What you need to do if your variable voltage AC supply doesn't already is to add a current limiter circuit to your system.  One HP mechanical is 746 Watts electrical.  And Watts equals Volts times Amperes.  So 1/3 HP equals 249 Watts and if the DC motor is a nominal 180 VDC one, then 1/3 HP @ 180 VDC is 1.38 Amperes DC.  Ideally, the current limit should vary inversely with the upstream voltage.  So with the voltage set to nominal 1/2 speed which we will assume would be 80 VDC, the current limit should rise to 2.76 A.  If it isn't a 180 VDC machine, the adjust all of the figures accordingly.
> 
> However, the motor controller is fast becoming quite complex.



Yup it is getting a little complex.  The motor is 100v 14 amp.  I've been trying to make "chicken salad" out of "chicken s**t" and it's not working out so well for me.  If I can find a 1/2" bore serpentine pulley somewhere I'll hook everything up and see how it holds when putting a load on the motor.


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## wa5cab (Mar 30, 2020)

Well, from what I can see in the two photos, there are only two things keeping you from selling it as it was originally sold (sans motor).  One is that it doesn't have the 2-step motor pulley and 2-step countershaft pulley.  And two, the back gear lever belongs on the other end of the shaft.  Where it is now, I think that if you try to mount the gear guard. it won't close fully.


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## LX Kid (Mar 30, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> Well, from what I can see in the two photos, there are only two things keeping you from selling it as it was originally sold (sans motor).  One is that it doesn't have the 2-step motor pulley and 2-step countershaft pulley.  And two, the back gear lever belongs on the other end of the shaft.  Where it is now, I think that if you try to mount the gear guard. it won't close fully.





wa5cab said:


> Well, from what I can see in the two photos, there are only two things keeping you from selling it as it was originally sold (sans motor).  One is that it doesn't have the 2-step motor pulley and 2-step countershaft pulley.  And two, the back gear lever belongs on the other end of the shaft.  Where it is now, I think that if you try to mount the gear guard. it won't close fully.



Yes your correct on both counts.  The back gear is installed and both the belt cover and gear cover does open and close properly.  I wanted it on the left side because I'm going to mount the motor on the right side of the counterbalance and have moved the pulley to the right side.  Trying to keep the lathes footprint smaller.  The pulleys can be bought by it's new owner it they so desire.


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## wa5cab (Mar 30, 2020)

OK.  My Father would probably have liked the back gear lever on the left.  He was left-handed, AFAIK the only one in five generations of my family to be so.


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## LX Kid (Apr 6, 2020)

I was able to find a treadmill power supply and used a 5K pot and it works quite well. I don't have any problems with either power supply as they both work good. I haven't put either one to use on my lathe and just have been tinkering around with both.  Should have finished this project about a week ago but have been dragging my feet for whatever reason.  Been getting hotter here in Florida and just don't feel motivated.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Apr 6, 2020)

ooh nice, that's an MC60 (or thereabouts).

You'll need to use the countershaft, that motor will run your lathe way too fast direct drive. 

As for the too much power comments. Maybe, but I've had a 1hp tm motor and then a 1.5 (or 2)hp tm motor on my 618 for the last 5 years or so and haven't broken anything yet. And I've done alot of work with it, including turning a 2 1/2" diameter stainless mortar for a mortar and pestle.


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## LX Kid (Apr 6, 2020)

Yes I think your correct.


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## wa5cab (Apr 7, 2020)

Well, hopefully you will always be either smart enough or lucky enough to never have a crash.  But if you ever do, an oversized motor will do much more damage than the recommended 1/4 to 1/3 HP.

On an unrelated subject, I have been working on an illustrated parts list for the 101.07301.  For a long time, I held off doing it in hopes of one finally surfacing.  It has a long way to go but is almost to the point where I think that it would be more help than hindrance.  I'll post a note when I've released a beta version.

It is a mystery to me why Sears never got Atlas to do one.  On the other machines, the earliest 10" and 618 ones date from 1945/6.  The first 12" one dates from about 1950 or so.  And production of of the 07301 continued until sometime in 1957.  

On a somewhat related subject, what keeps the part of the spindle ball thrust bearing that is supposed to be stationary from rotating?  And does the 6" spindle have a peg or post in it to make the rotary part of the bearing rotate as the 9", 10" and 12" babbit bearing ones do?


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## LX Kid (Apr 7, 2020)

wa5cab said:


> On a somewhat related subject, what keeps the part of the spindle ball thrust bearing that is supposed to be stationary from rotating?  And does the 6" spindle have a peg or post in it to make the rotary part of the bearing rotate as the 9", 10" and 12" babbit bearing ones do?


I guess that's another good reason to have a counter-shaft assembly to let the belt slip in case of a chuck crash.  Good question about the spindle bearing and maybe someone reading this post has an answer.


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## mattthemuppet2 (Apr 7, 2020)

they have a 1/4" V belt and tiny pulleys. If a crash happened with a higher HP motor then the belt would slip. And that's if the lathe was actually capable of taking a cut that would use all that power. Really, people get their knickers in all kinds of twists about motor size on small lathes.

I never ran my 7301 in anger but from what I can remember there was nothing specific that keyed the thrust ball bearing to the spindle.


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## LX Kid (Apr 7, 2020)

For those interested here is a free download link for the Atlas 618 parts manual which is "maybe almost" the same as the Craftsman 6" lathes as well as the 12A and 16A armature lathes. 



			https://ia601004.us.archive.org/34/items/lathe-manuals/Atlas-N%C2%B0%206%2C%2012%2C%20618-manual.pdf


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## wa5cab (Apr 8, 2020)

Unfortunately, whomever scanned that parts manual did it in color originally.  And it pixelates pretty badly beyond a zoom of about 2.5:1.  The moral of the story is never ever scan a black & white original to color.


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## LX Kid (Apr 8, 2020)

When I zoom in on my MAC it comes in pretty good.  "You pay less you get less!"


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## wa5cab (Apr 8, 2020)

Try zooming in until the pixels are about 1/4" square.  You will see that the black is no longer all black.  And that there is about a 5 pixel wide band around each nominally black line where the scanner couldn't make up its mind as to whether the pixels should be black, white or something in between.  And then it finally settles on the correct color being yellow.  The yellow has zero information content and only serves to inflate the file size.  Had it been scanned properly in monochrome with the grass cutter properly set, the indeterminate band would only be one pixel wide.  I've been doing this commercially with high-end equipment for more than a quarter-century and know what it takes to make new looking scans of 30 to 100+ year old originals.

In any case, the file in question is already available in Downloads.  But the best and most nearly correct one for the 618 and the slightly later 101.21400 is the cleaned up scan of the one that came out in 1950.  It is the basis for the one that I'm working on for the 101.07301.


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## LX Kid (Apr 14, 2020)

Still moving in "slooooow moooootion."  No excuse for not doing something to finish it off.  Just have to bolt the lathe, motor and countershaft assembly down to the base board.   Had a 120 year historic 91 degree day yesterday and the virus scare just puts a damper on all my actions.  Maybe it's like Scarlet O'Harra said at the end of Gone With the Wind, "Tomorrow will be a better day."  Not going to use the DC motors and will save them for some other project.


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## LX Kid (Apr 25, 2020)

Must be getting closer to doing something.  I bought a swarf pan!

Update 10/29/21:  Well dang!  I mounted everything and forgot to put the swarf pan under the lathe!


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## LX Kid (Oct 23, 2021)

Well time really flies by!   It's only been 1-1/2 years and I started back on this project yesterday.  I had already stripped all parts, cleaned, primed and painted by April of "last" year.  All I had to do was mount it and do all the necessary adjustments and lubricating everything.  Never did find/buy a motor mount so I just solid mounted it to the bench.  Found some pulleys, not correct size, but they they work fine for now.  Low speed is 560 rpm and high speed is 1680 rpm.  Don't have a tool post but ordered a OXA QCTP from Amazoo and should be here in a couple of days.  Az lucky lucky for me I already has a full set of change gears from another Craftsman lathe I used to own about 20 years ago, not that I would probably ever use them.  I turned it on for the first time today and it hums like a Singer Sewing Machine.


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## wa5cab (Oct 24, 2021)

Looks much better.  I see that you found a tailstock lock lever.  

If you have the other set of jaws for the 3-jaw chuck, I would strongly recommend installing them.  They will make access to the part mounted in the chuck much better.


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## LX Kid (Oct 24, 2021)

I do have the four jaw but how so making it better?


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## LX Kid (Oct 25, 2021)

wa5cab said:


> OK.  My Father would probably have liked the back gear lever on the left.  He was left-handed, AFAIK the only one in five generations of my family to be so.


I also am left handed and so I guess it will stay where it  is.


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## LX Kid (Oct 25, 2021)

I'm gonna have to come up with another chuck instead of the one I now have.  My chuck is an outside grab and I want an inside holding chuck.  If only I had the extra jaws would have been great.  I don't have a thread gage that will tell me if the spindle TPI is 8 or 10.  I "think" being it has bronze bushings that it is an 8 tpi.  If were Timken roller bearings on the spindle I "think" it would be a 10 tpi.  Anyone want to do any chuck trading or selling the one you have????


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## cross thread (Oct 26, 2021)

Hi Kid , thanks for documenting the restore I think you did a fine job . You are correct the 6" has a 1"- 8 tpi spindle thread and sorry I don't have a spare chuck . Because the 6" has a # 2 Morse taper in the spindle it is inexpensive to make a collet set up and get a chuck with a M2 shank .   https://www.ebay.com/itm/164533454179?hash=item264ef54563:g:e-cAAOSwq-dfvJ91 One thing and it will be a quick fix , the lathe's risers (feet) you have reversed . The Atlas / Craftsman  6" had a 3 point mount , where as the 618 had a 4 point mount . IMO the 3 point mount was a very good idea . You can't get bed twist with a 3 point mount .
Mark .


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## LX Kid (Oct 26, 2021)

I was curious about the feet when I mounted the lathe to the table.   Don't think I'll take it apart though now that everything is working fine.  I ordered a couple of arbors to mount drill chucks and a new 4" 3-jaw chuck, 1"x8 tpi, with mounting place.  Also a QCTP set, OAX 250 was ordered.

I discovered my old chuck jaws are out of spec so when I get my QCTP I'll do a grind job on the jaws.  While cleaning up my shop I discovered that I have a 4-jaw chuck for a South Bend 9" lathe.  Guess I'll hang onto it in case I want to do another South Bend.  I've done two of those plus this 6" Craftsman.


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## LX Kid (Oct 27, 2021)

Strange that everyone was saying my tailstock was a MT-2.  I measured the tailstock ram opening and it's .461" at the shoulder so it should be a MT-1.   A MT-2 is .700" at the shoulder and the tail won't even enter into the ram.   I also noticed that the chuck was running backwards.  So I said "uh-oh" and rewired the motor for CCW direction but it will only run CW.   As luck would have it something wrong with motor and won't run CCW.  So I had to turn motor and layshaft around so the pulleys are on the left side.  Works fine now.  Hope my QCTP arrives soon so I can give it a try.


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## Aaron_W (Oct 27, 2021)

LX Kid said:


> Strange that everyone was saying my tailstock was a MT-2.  I measured the tailstock ram opening and it's .461" so it should be a MT-1.   A MT-2 is .700" and won't even enter into the ram.   I also noticed that the chuck was running backwards.  So I said "uh-oh" and rewired the motor for CCW direction but it will only run CW.   As luck would have it something wrong with motor and won't run CCW.  So I had to turn motor and layshaft around so the pulleys are on the left side.  Works fine now.  Hope my QCTP arrives soon so I can give it a try.



The 10" has MT3 in the spindle and MT2 in the tail stock, the 6" lathes are MT2 in the spindle and MT1 in the tail stock. 

I find that when people don't catch which lathe it is, many assume it is one of the larger lathes. Unlike many mini-lathes the 6" Atlas lathes really don't look as small as they are without something to give some context.


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## LX Kid (Oct 28, 2021)

Received my QCTP last night and I'm sure it will work a lot better than the broken Lantern post I have.  Of course I had to make a mounting plate.  The plates threaded hole has to be drilled off center or the QCTP will not turn for adjustment.  The QCTP was more than I wanted to spend as the last one I had ordered, about 6 or 7 years ago was half the price from The Little Machine Shop.  (It is what it is!)  Speaking of money, I'm already deep into this lathe!  I bought it for $150 and it had "soooooo" many problems that I had to throw money at.  I'm kinda embarrassed to say I'm about $1500 into it,  That's one of the reasons I didn't want to spend more money on the lay  shaft/motor mound assembly.

This old chucks jaws are not concentric by several thousandths and will be glad when my new chuck and mounting plate arrives tomorrow.  Now I can grind my jaws back concentric.  The spindle is running true so the play is in the chuck.


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## LX Kid (Oct 28, 2021)

First cut really sucks!  I "think" I might have my cutter tool set a little too high.  I'll try adjusting a little later, when I get a chance, and see how it works.   Looks like a record cut with a broken stylus.


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## LX Kid (Oct 28, 2021)

What are the proper sizes of the motor and layshaft pulleys?   I had these two pulleys so I just used them.  Layshaft pulleys I used are 3-1/2" and motor 2-1/2".  Low speed is 560 rpm and high speed is about 1700 rpm.  I turned the motor belt inside out for better tightness.  Both belts deflect 1/2" up and down.


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## Garryloy (Oct 28, 2021)

LX Kid said:


> What are the proper sizes of the motor and layshaft pulleys?   I had these two pulleys so I just used them.  Layshaft pulleys I used are 3-1/2" and motor 2-1/2".  Low speed is 560 rpm and high speed is about 1700 rpm.  I turned the motor belt inside out for better tightness.  Both belts deflect 1/2" up and down.


The motor pulley you are using is for a larger section V belt.  A V belt works on a wedging principle, and it must fit the pulley properly to work. Usually the inside width of the pulley at the outer diameter will match the max belt width.

I have a 618 lathe.  I will try to measure the belts tomorrow for you.


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## LX Kid (Oct 28, 2021)

I just used what I had laying around without spending any more money.  What makes pulleys so darn expensive?  Belt measurements will change so I could just use a rope for the new measurements.  Wish someone had suggested that I mount my motor like in the left picture.  This would work a lot better than the way I have it setup now.  Right now the layshaft does nothing!  Put the layshaft mount on top of a 2x4 and mount the motor between the lathe and layshaft assembly.  Gonna change that tomorrow like the left  picture.


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## LX Kid (Oct 28, 2021)

My back plate, MT1 arbor arrived this afternoon.  Just waiting on my new chuck and "Craftsman" decals to arrive.  Did anyone notice what I used for a cross slide handle?  It's an outside faucet handle where I cut the center out and knurled the outside diameter.


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## wa5cab (Oct 29, 2021)

It is relatively unusual to find a 3-jaw solid jaw chuck with the set of jaws that yours has installed.  The missing set of jaws are the ones more commonly used and are normally the only set found on those chucks where the other set has been lost.  So finding a 3-jaw chuck with the other set of jaws won't be difficult at all.  So that is probably what I would do.  They should be cheaper than a chuck with both sets of jaws or one with 2-piece jaws (which are reversible).


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## LX Kid (Oct 29, 2021)

Ordered new chuck and back plate.  Just waiting on chuck to arrive.  Now I have to get my lathe back up and running so I can face the back plate to fit the new chuck.

Started to reverse lay shaft and motor.  Had I remembered that I would have to remove back gear and spindle shafts I probably would have left it as was.  Already started the work now though.  Gonna check and see if I can buy one of those take apart belts which I "think" they call an alligator belt. Can someone tell me the diameter of the motor pulley?


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## LX Kid (Oct 29, 2021)

Going thru a junk box I found this four groove pulley.  Problem is it's for a 5/8" shaft and my motor is 1/2" shaft.  I just ordered a steel adapter bushing going from 5/8" down to 1/2" shaft.  This will be much better than that large pulley I now have on the motor.


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## wa5cab (Oct 29, 2021)

Kid,

The common name for the emergency repair belts is "Link Belt".  I think that you are making a mistake in mounting the countershaft behind the motor.  To begin with, that isn't the way that Atlas did it.  Second, the spindle belt will have to be about three times as long as it currently is.  Which is bad for several reasons.  Regardless of what type belt you use (and the link belt is not the best choice), the longer the belt, the more vibration you will get from it.  And the more it will cost.  Plus, the belt tensioning mechanism must slacken both belts at the same time.  It was designed to do that when mounted between the motor and the lathe.


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## LX Kid (Oct 29, 2021)

Problem is right now, the way I have it, the lay shaft does nothing because disengaging does nothing  because it tensions motor and layshaft with no release!  I have been using the power switch for emergency and just rolling belt over to other pulley grooves.   Without "buying" a proper motor mount, that works in conjunction with the layshaft, I'd have to spend another couple hundred bucks to buy it.  With the  new parts recently order I now have around $1700 in the lathe.  On a good day it's probably only worth about $1200.  It's kinda like making "chicken salad using "chicken s**t."  Maybe if I get too much belt vibration I could add an idler pulley.


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## Garryloy (Oct 29, 2021)

LX Kid said:


> Problem is right now, the way I have it, the lay shaft does nothing because disengaging does nothing  because it tensions motor and layshaft with no release!  I have been using the power switch for emergency and just rolling belt over to other pulley grooves.   Without "buying" a proper motor mount, that works in conjunction with the layshaft, I'd have to spend another couple hundred bucks to buy it.  With the  new parts recently order I now have around $1700 in the lathe.  On a good day it's probably only worth about $1200.  It's kinda like making "chicken salad using "chicken s**t."  Maybe if I get too much belt vibration I could add an idler pulley.


As promised, here are the belt and pulley sizes on my 618 lathe:
Motor pulley --- two steps --- OD 1.65" and 3.23"
Jackshaft pulley --- two steps --- OD 4.45" and 3.21"
All pulleys measure 0.320" inside at OD
Motor belt 31.25"
Spindle belt 21.0"
Belts measure 0.375" wide


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## LX Kid (Oct 29, 2021)

Thank you very much for the measurements!

My chuck arrived this evening so I put my lathe motor and jackshaft back the way it was. Faced aced the back plate for the new chuck.   Wow what a difference a new chuck makes.  Guess the old chuck was about 75 or 80 years old so it was about time.  I stumbled across the saddle lock and and some other missing parts in a box,   In the box were also the 3 reversing gears and back gear which I had to buy from Clausing last year.


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## LX Kid (Oct 30, 2021)

wa5cab said:


> FYI the bushings are sintered bronze (AKA Oilite), not solid brass.  They should come pre-filled with oil and you do not need to add a hole in them to let the oil from the cups (SAE 20 or ISO 68 ND) through.  That is the second mistake that many make.


The is the second of the two things you warned me about being a mistake.  When I put the new bushings in I forgot what you told me and drilled it for oiling.  Is this a bad thing?  I have been oiling it often.


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## wa5cab (Oct 30, 2021)

The main downside to having drilled an "Oil" hole through a sintered bronze bushing is that in order to always keep oil in the cup, you will have to frequently add oil.  And of course, it will sling oil badly if you keep oil in the cup. 

However, to correct the error will not cost you two more new bushings.  With a scribe or jewelers file, make a visible mark on one end of each bushing in line with the oil hole.  Fully loosen the the clamping screws that are tightened to clamp the bushing in place.  Whether or not you will have to partially remove the spindle from the headstock depends upon how much spring there is in the two split journals, but rotate the bushings until the holes are at the 10:00 to 11:00 or 01:00 to 02:00 o'clock positions.  And then reassemble whatever of the gears and pulley you had to disturb in order to rotate the bushings.  Finish by re-tightening the screws.  And unlike on the Atlas 612 or 618 or Craftsman 101.21400, do NOT add the low density felt plug to the oil cups.  Keep the oil cups at least half full (whenever you DO add oil, of course fill the cup).


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## LX Kid (Oct 30, 2021)

I think I've figured out a way to work around a motor mount assembly.  In the picture you see an "X" marking the spot where I could put a hand  operated idler pulley, with a longer belt,  that would disengage the motor from the layshaft pulley.  Once loosened the belt on the layshaft to gearhead could be adjusted.  This seems to be the cheapest way for me to go without spending a whole lot of money.  New chuck really works well.


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## LX Kid (Oct 30, 2021)

cross thread said:


> One thing and it will be a quick fix , the lathe's risers (feet) you have reversed . The Atlas / Craftsman  6" had a 3 point mount , where as the 618 had a 4 point mount . IMO the 3 point mount was a very good idea . You can't get bed twist with a 3 point mount .
> Mark .


Thanks for calling attention to the fact I have the feet reversed.  I noticed the gear head rigedity is not so good with only having one screw to hold it in place.  Well live and learn.  Try and get them on properly tomorrow if I get a chance.  Thanks again, Ron


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## LX Kid (Oct 31, 2021)

I ordered two parts to start my motor to layshaft mod.  When they arrive I'll make a support mount and  tensioning knob.  I'll have to either move the motor about an inch closer to the layshaft or buy a little longer belt.  Also need to put a swarf pan under the lathe which I had already bought.  Maybe one day I'll actually make something with the lathe!  L0L


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## LX Kid (Oct 31, 2021)

LX Kid said:


> Thanks for calling attention to the fact I have the feet reversed.  I noticed the gear head rigedity is not so good with only having one screw to hold it in place.  Well live and learn.  Try and get them on properly tomorrow if I get a chance.  Thanks again, Ron


It's a good thing you told me about the feet reversed.  I removed everything off the lathe bench and started over.  I discovered that I had not even tightened the 3 screws on each foot!   I installed my swarf pan also which will make clean-up a lot easier.  Now I'm just waiting for the 1/2" sheave bushing, idler pulley and adjusting bracket so as to install the motor.


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## RJSakowski (Oct 31, 2021)

I have the 101.21400 lathe so there may be some differences.  I have the OEM stand and my motor is located almost directly below the countershaft.  Loosening the tension on the countershaft also loosens the belt for the motor.


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## LX Kid (Oct 31, 2021)

RJSakowski said:


> I have the 101.21400 lathe so there may be some differences.  I have the OEM stand and my motor is located almost directly below the countershaft.  Loosening the tension on the countershaft also loosens the belt for the motor.


You just might be correct and I might just be chasing mods that I don't really need to do!  Seems to make sense and that I might be overthinking my needs for my setup!   I'm going to sit upon the porcelain alter and stink about this!  "No one told me I had to be smart, just willing!"Thanks for your input!  LoL

I've been thinking I needed something like in the picture below.


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## wa5cab (Oct 31, 2021)

Note that the 101.21400 is the same except for badges and maybe color as the Atlas 618.  Most of the parts on the 101.07301 are the same as on the 618 and 101.21400.  The main difference is that the spindle bearings on the 101.07301 are bronze bushings whereas the other two use Timken tapered roller bearings.  The other difference is that the 101.07301 always came with the second version of the 618 Countershaft.  But from about 1939 on, the 618 (and the later 101.21400) changed to the third version.  The difference is that the 2nd version had the countershaft proper above the belt tension pivot point and a shorter countershaft bracket.  Whereas the third version was like the 10" Horizontal Countershaft where the countershaft proper hangs down from the pivot point.


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## LX Kid (Oct 31, 2021)

This is probably the the way I should mount the motor and countershaft.  With that large pully on the motor I'll bet it flys with lot's of rpm's!   I'd have to be careful with belt selection so that they are both, when tensioned, the same deflection.  Otherwise one would be loose and one would be tight.


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## LX Kid (Nov 1, 2021)

I've decided to go with the motor in between the countershaft and the lathe.  I ordered 3/8" and 1/2" red link belts. ($62)  Could have done this cheaper but it will make my lathe so much more "sexy!"  In the below pic is the way it will go together and nothing is bolted down yet.  My set of carbide cutters arrived yesterday.  Getting antsy to get my lathe finalized so I can enjoy making mountains of useless chips!  LoL


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## LX Kid (Nov 2, 2021)

Doing a little busy work while waiting for my parts to arrive.  I had an old 9/16" offset box end that I cut off and slotted the box end.  After slotting I squeezed the box end together so it would be a tight fit on top of my QCTP.  My tailstock locking nut and bolt was 17mm so I cut off a spare 17mm box end wrench.  This way I can just leave them on all the time instead of looking for them.


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## LX Kid (Nov 4, 2021)

Well I have everything aligned and bolted down and am just waiting for two parts to arrive.  The 3/8" belt and the sheave 5/8" to 1/3" adapter should be here by Friday.  "THEN" I should be able to make mounds of worthless chips not known to humanity this century!  LoL


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## LX Kid (Nov 4, 2021)

"IF NOT BAD LUCK I'D HAVE NO LUCK AT ALL!"   My shaft adapter came in so I installed into the sheave and "tried" fitting the 1/2" link belt onto the pulleys.  Wouldn't you just know it don't fit the motor to cuntershaft.   The pulleys are definetly not 3/8".  The belt won't stay on and spins off the motor sheave.  Is there a size between 3/8" and 1/2" belts that I'm not aware of?  Are my pulleys metric or something???  I hope when I get the 3/8" link belt that it will fit the countershaft.  Take a look at the pics and maybe someone can clue me in.  Thanks

Side note:  Are these type belts directional?


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## mattthemuppet2 (Nov 4, 2021)

can't say about your motor/countershaft pulley, but the countershaft/spindle pulleys are definitely 3/8". I hated the link belt on mine, slipped constantly, so I made a poly V spindle sheave instead.

then motor/countershaft belt would work better if you turned it around - the dangly bits are supposed to ride down in the V, not outside


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## LX Kid (Nov 4, 2021)

mattthemuppet2 said:


> can't say about your motor/countershaft pulley, but the countershaft/spindle pulleys are definitely 3/8". I hated the link belt on mine, slipped constantly, so I made a poly V spindle sheave instead.
> 
> then motor/countershaft belt would work better if you turned it around - the dangly bits are supposed to ride down in the V, not outside


I thought so after viewing my pics about being directional.  I put my original pulley back on the motor,which is wider, and belt doesn't slide off now but the belt rides high on the countershaft pulley.


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## LX Kid (Nov 4, 2021)

Measurement of the sheave top to top.  Tomorrow I'll go to the auto parts store and find out what size of belt fits the pulleys.  I'm thinking the 3/8" belt will fit the motor to countershaft and bet it will not fit the countershaft sheave.


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## LX Kid (Nov 4, 2021)

LX Kid said:


> I thought so after viewing my pics about being directional.  I put my original pulley back on the motor,which is wider, and belt doesn't slide off now but the belt rides high on the countershaft pulley.


I reread your reply and instead of having it turned around I had it inside out!"  I turned the belt inside out and made the T-connectors flowing with a clockwise direction.   "IT WORKS MUCH MORE GOODER" now!   My first dealings with these kind of belts and I thank you for your help.  Thanks again


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## mattthemuppet2 (Nov 4, 2021)

No problem at all, glad you got it sorted! To be honest the main thing I've found link belts to be good for is working out what size of proper v belt to get. I found that link belts slip way more than a solid v belt


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## wa5cab (Nov 5, 2021)

LX Kid,

The original pulleys for all of the 6" Atlas-built lathes except for the Mk2 are made to fit 3/8" belts having part numbers beginning with "3L".  They obviously won't fit a 1/2" belt which you said yours is.  I can't say for certain that there is no belt made whose nominal width is between 3/8" and 1/2" as I am not familiar with metric sizing.  But in the FHP line of belts, there is nothing made between 3/8" and 1/2" nominal width.  But the first thing wrong with the belt that you are trying to use is that it is the wrong size and shape for the pulleys.

And to answer your other question, the originator of the link belt (whose links don't look like what you bought) clearly says that running their belts in reverse is not recommended.

I am prevented by site policy from making any further comments on your belts other than to say that the links don't appear to me to have been made to fit a V-Section pulley of any width.  The links all look square (or rectangular).


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## LX Kid (Nov 5, 2021)

wa5cab said:


> LX Kid,
> 
> 
> And to answer your other question, the originator of the link belt (whose links don't look like what you bought) clearly says that running their belts in reverse is not recommended.
> ...


I had the belt turned inside out!  The V was suttle looking and I turned the belt V  correctly and made the T-connectors flowing with a clockwise direction.  It does have a "V" but I didn't catch it at first and it seems to now fit the pulleys fine and runs well.   Thanks

Side note:  Still waiting for the 3/8" belt which is "supposed" to arrive tomorrow.  put a "Power/Kill" switch on the front right.  Yes it is a light switch and just working with what I have.


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## LX Kid (Nov 5, 2021)

Anyone made a larger cross slide dial that can be read without using a magnifying glass?  The little dinky dial is irritating!


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## LX Kid (Nov 6, 2021)

Learned a neat trick from Quinn on YouBoob about tool / chuck setup.  My lathe center is "dead nuts" 3" on both the chuck and tailstock.  It makes the cutter tool height and 90 degree to chuck very easy.  So a 2x3 block works out very well for me.  My new 3/8" belt should arrive today.  I've been running my 1/2" belt, as well as leaving engaged overnight, and seems the belt stretches.  I had set it for 1/2" deflection and now it increased in deflection to mabey 3/4" or more.  Anyone else have similar experience?


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## Weldingrod1 (Nov 6, 2021)

In a perfect world you want your motor attached to the counter shaft assembly so that you can set the first belt tension and leave it. The whole motor and counter shaft assembly swings to loosen up for belt changes.
You could also arrange things so both belts loosen for belt changes. It will take some fiddling to get it right!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## LX Kid (Nov 6, 2021)

A little more busy work this morning.  I was able to reduce the some vibration between the "cast" shieve of the motor with the link belt.  Of course that small vibration is transferred thru the motor, to the table and them to the lathe.  The casting joints of the shieve were a littIe raised up.  I used a steel bar and 100 grit paper to sand the groove sides while the motor was running.  Only did one groove as shown.


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## wa5cab (Nov 6, 2021)

Link belts (any brand) are known to stretch from new.  As a general rule, run it a day or three and then removea [ink.  Normally, one would probably leave the belt un-tensioned when the lathe is not in use.  But after installing a new link belt, leave it tensioned until it stretches enough to remove a link.  Or in your case, maybe two.


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## LX Kid (Nov 6, 2021)

Finally my 3/8" belt came in and got it up and running.  While trying to do some final adjustment a "jerry rigged" spacer next to the bull gear and housing failed.  The nut on the end of a tiny makeshift band using a machine screw stripped out.  "Of course" not having anything that small to make a repair I used safety wire to pull it tight.  When I did assembly I just used the band as I didn't have the correct part.   I'll have to order from clausing, I hope, the spacer that goes between the bull gear and the housing.  I did my first cut and facing and it really came out nice!


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## Cadillac STS (Nov 6, 2021)

There are files for 3D printing larger dials on thingiverse free to download.  Also Mr. Pete did a video on making them from metal.

Replying to asking about bigger dials above.


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## LX Kid (Nov 6, 2021)

Cadillac STS said:


> There are files for 3D printing larger dials on thingiverse free to download.  Also Mr. Pete did a video on making them from metal.
> 
> Replying to asking about bigger dials above.


If someone has their spindle apart maybe they could give me the dimentions of the spacer and I could lathe one.  It I take it apart to get the specs I would have a working lathe to make it.  Don't really want to disassemble a nd assemble 4 times.  Anyone know if there are specs online?


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## LX Kid (Nov 7, 2021)

I'm really happy with the outcome of renovation except with "one" darn thing!  The infamous problem of the crossfeed backlash.  Mine is about .015" and just "loosy goosy" can't live with that!  There just has to be a hack short or getting a new screw and brass nut or ball screw assembly. (If they even make one for such a small lathe.)  This problem has existed for the longest time and seems someone has come up with something short of replacing the whole lathe!  With my lack of experience I would not even attempt to make a new screw.  I know some have done that and might be willing to pay a real machinist to make me one if it wasn't cost prohibitive.


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## LX Kid (Nov 7, 2021)

Last night I let the lathe run for about an hour, in neutral, to help stretch and get some flexibility in the belts.  I noticed that the left housing was getting pretty warm and I believe I have the spindle nut too tight.  Might have something to do with the spindle nut being too tight and may be another reason I need the spacer next to the bull gear on the spindle.  

Update:  11/7/21@ 5pm
The spindle nut was too tight.  I loosened it up a tad and ran for about 30 minutes and it wasn't even warm.  Gotta check into what the horizontal movement measurement is at the check from proper nut tightening.  But then I still need that collar on the right side.


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## cross thread (Nov 7, 2021)

Somewhere in this video (around 0:37) it shows how to make a "backlash eliminator" . You make a slot in the brass nut and put in a set screw to spread the slot . You can then adjust out the backlash .
<iframe width="900" height="506" src="



" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>


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## LX Kid (Nov 7, 2021)

cross thread said:


> Somewhere in this video (around 0:37) it shows how to make a "backlash eliminator" . You make a slot in the brass nut and put in a set screw to spread the slot . You can then adjust out the backlash .
> <iframe width="900" height="506" src="
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing that video with me!!  It was very informative with ideas on how to overcome backlash.


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## LX Kid (Nov 7, 2021)

"NOW I FEEL DUMBER THAN DIRT!"  Just got back inside the house, from the shop, after removing the "compound slide" and discovered two problems.  First all this time I've been saying problem was with the cross slide when I actually meant the compound slide!  Second I discovered there is a set screw hidden under the slide that locks the brass nut down.  I had not screwed the set screw down cause I didn't see it.  Guess what?  I only now have .006" slop on the compound slide.  The cross slide has .010" and I can live with the backlash in both of these!


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## LX Kid (Nov 7, 2021)

When I adjust the gear train I use a strip of paper where the two gear mesh and tighten it down.  Only play I see and hear is the forward/reverse gears.  They wobble a bit on the holding bolts but is still acceptable from a noise standpoint.  My lather really runs quite including expected noise from the back gear which I bought new.!

Also I have no slop in either the cross slide or compound slide.  Gibb screw are set well.


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## LX Kid (Nov 8, 2021)

Discovered, after making a 1" ID collar for the spindle, that it does not require one. If putting a collar next to the bull gear you can't install the woodruff key on the spindle. The woodruff key, along with the set screw, locks in place the bull gear.  Due to lack of tech data and online searching results, which revealed nothing,  I wasted time on that other than first real use of my little lathe.
Some useless pics to keep it interesting.


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## wa5cab (Nov 8, 2021)

The problem with any of the variants of "zero backlash" nuts is that if there is backlash due to screw wear, you must adjust the nut in an area of the screw where there is no wear and live with the backlash where there is screw wear.  Adjusting it in the worn area will result in the screw locking up when you get into the un-worn area on the screw.  My suggestion would be to replace the nut and live with the back lash in the area where the screw is worn.  Proper technique which you should learn anyway will eliminate machining errors due to screw wear.


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## cross thread (Nov 8, 2021)

Sounds like you are going along pretty good . Here is a web site that I like to keep in my bookmarks , comes in handy for me when I'm working on the head stock . http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/atlas/spindle/spindle.html
Also if you decide to get a new Acme cross slide nut there is a guy that makes them and sells them on the Bay . Check out the part in his ad where he talks about identifying your lead screw (that was because of me , ah hem) . https://www.ebay.com/itm/192872253990?hash=item2ce8150a26:g:AisAAOSwjt5afOkD
Mark .


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## LX Kid (Nov 8, 2021)

I guess I can say that this renovation is now finished.  I will open any new posts of new issues or mods.  The machine is quiet, cross and compound slides are tolerable and am satisfied with the way the whole late works.  Now only issue is getting some change gears, which I just ordered 3D printed ones.  I thought that I had change gears for this lathe but after checking them they don't fit.  I have two sets and I know one is for a Chinese "Shop Task" lathe and I don't know what the other set fits.  These are the gears that came with  the lathe.  Two of the gears are 64-T and the others I'm not sure.

Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions!


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## wa5cab (Nov 11, 2021)

If the gears are too large for the machine and the largest two are 64T, they may be the gear set for the Atlas 10" and 12".  In which case they are quite tradable.


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## LX Kid (Nov 11, 2021)

wa5cab said:


> If the gears are too large for the machine and the largest two are 64T, they may be the gear set for the Atlas 10" and 12".  In which case they are quite tradable.


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## wa5cab (Nov 11, 2021)

I'm not sure what the photos are intended to show up.  All of the gears in the photos show gears that are correct for any of the eight 6" lathes that Atlas built for themselves or for Sears.  The complete set of gears for all of the Atlas built 6" lathes consists of 14 gears with 20 through 64 teeth plus two M6-165 Spacers.


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