# iGaging Absolute DRO installation on Clausing 8520



## Terrywerm

I recently purchased a set of iGaging Absolute DROs for my Clausing 8520 mill. I had them on hand for a few weeks before I got the chance to install them, and now, a couple of weeks later yet, I am posting photos of how I installed them. 

Keep in mind that the photos are of my initial installation, and I plan to make better spacers, as well as one read head plate where I made a hole in the wrong place. My apologies for not cleaning up my mill before taking the photos, but I took them immediately after I completed the installation, with only basic cleaning being done before taking the photos. 

I started with the X readout, which required a 24" rail. The X travel on this mill is only 15.125", but with the table being 24" long, I still had to cut the rail down to an appropriate length. The X axis was the only rail that I had to trim, and it was easily accomplished with a flex shaft tool and a small cutoff wheel. By mounting the rail with the plastic strip facing out, and the cable from the read head sticking up, and the origin set to zero when the table is all the way to the right, the numbers will climb as the table is moved to the left. In order to leave room behind the rail so that the read head could be mounted to the existing stop block, 1/2" thick spacers were placed between the rail and the table. 



A simple piece of 1/8" x 1/2" flat stock was used to mount the read head to the stop block.




Y travel on this mill is only 5.125" and it was done next, using a 6" DRO with the rail flipped over so that the plastic strip is facing the knee, and the cable exiting the bottom of the read head. When the table is moved as far as possible away from the column, and the origin is set to zero, the numbers will climb as the table is moved toward the column. This may seem backwards to some, but it works well for me. I put spacers 5/16" thick between the knee and the rail. This allowed the read head to mount to the side of the saddle with a simple flat plate. The one in the photo is missing a screw. For some silly reason I drilled the two bottom holes the same distance apart as the top ones. Oops. Gotta make that plate over again.

Here is the rail mounting for the Y axis.



And the read head mounting. 





The Z axis travels 11.625", and a 12" DRO did the trick here. This is the one I dreaded the most due to the sloping shape of the side of the column, but this proved to be quite easy to get around, but it took some time. The bottom of the rail was mounted at the height shown in the photo, with the mounting screw at about the same elevation as the bottom part of the "G" in Clausing. This position was determined in sort of a by guess and by gosh method, based on where the read head was mounted. I chose to mount the read head to the existing holes on the side of the knee. This allowed enough clearance for the Y axis read head to pass, and also allowed access to the oiler for the knee gibs without giving the DRO a bath in oil. There is a spacer 1.25" thick between the knee and the plate that mounts the read head. This spacer was made partially from 3/4" square tubing, which allowed for mounting the tube to the knee, then the remaining spacers and the read head bracket were fastened to the square tube. The rail was mounted with the plastic strip facing the knee, with the cable exiting from the rear of the read head. If the knee is placed at the bottom, and the origin is set to zero, the numbers will climb as the knee is raised. The bottom end of the rail has no spacers, but the top of the rail has a spacer 0.750" thick.

Z axis upper rail mount



Z axis read head and lower rail mounts



Last but not least, I mounted the readouts to the right side of the column and placed ID stickers on them. My one son and his daughter are learning how to use the mill, so simply putting X,Y, and Z on them was not going to be enough. A quick explanation of what X. Y, and Z are is included.





This entire project was completed in about six hours from start to finish, so it was not all that bad!  I still need to mount a piece of aluminum angle to the front of the table to cover the head and rail for the X axis, and I should do something for the Y axis also, but for now I am happy just to have them mounted and usable!


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## COMachinist

Hi Terry
Great job on the DRO's. I have been thinking about putting a set on my Clausing lathe. They are out of 6" units can you cut these with out any ill affects? Like could I cut down a 12" to fit my cross slide?
Again nice job I like it You will love the DRO on the mill. I have a set of DRO Pro's on my mill don't know how I got along with out them.
CH


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## JPigg55

COMachinist, I'm pretty positive the scales can be cut to size.
Were you planning on the Absolute series or the magnetic ?
At igaging (http://www.igaging.com/), which has the best price I could find, there can be a big price difference between the 6" and 12" depending on which way you go.
For the magnetic, I see 6" - $34, 12" - $39.99. Not too big a difference.
Absolute model, 6" - $55.19. 12" - $82.79. Not horrible, but almost $30 difference. Could go a long way toward another scale if you're planning on a 2 axis DRO for your lathe.
Igaging store located at http://www.igagingstore.com/?Click=7 or just click "Where to Buy" on the igaging site.
Not sure where you were shopping, but igaging store has sale currently with those prices. Doesn't say how long sale is.


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## COMachinist

Hey Jpig
Thanks for the link. I had not shopped there I saw them on Amazon. I get free shipping as prime customer. They had great prices also but it looks like the link is a better way to go.
Thanks again
CH


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## Terrywerm

Yes, the iGaging DROs can be cut to any length desired, in fact it is necessary to cut one to length for the X axis on the 8520. You need a 24" scale to cover the X travel of 15.125" but the total length of the 24" scale is something like 27", too long to fit on the 24" table.

I used to use a mill that had DRO on just the X and Y axis' and always disliked the fact that there was not a DRO on the Z axis. Once I got my own mill I soon realized how much I used to depend on the DROs and it became a top priority to get something for my mill. It also soon became apparent that I would need to buy scales that could be cut down easily, as nothing the right length is commercially available to fit my machine. Glass scales can be cut, but from what I've read it can be a tricky undertaking, so I wanted to avoid them. I would have loved to go with the DROPros magnetic scales, 3 axis for the mill, but that setup cost more than I paid for my mill and I had to find a more inexpensive option for the time being. Eventually a DROPro setup may find a home here, but for now the budget will only allow the iGaging units.


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## 34_40

TW, can I ask for a ballpark dollar value for this installation?  I'd like to do something like this also.  TIA :think1:



terrywerm said:


> I would have loved to go with the DROPros magnetic scales, 3 axis for the mill, but that setup cost more than I paid for my mill and I had to find a more inexpensive option for the time being. Eventually a DROPro setup may find a home here, but for now the budget will only allow the iGaging units.


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## the gentleman

terrywerm said:


> i recently purchased a set of igaging absolute dros for my clausing 8520 mill. I had them on hand for a few weeks before i got the chance to install them, and now, a couple of weeks later yet, i am posting photos of how i installed them.
> 
> Keep in mind that the photos are of my initial installation, and i plan to make better spacers, as well as one read head plate where i made a hole in the wrong place. My apologies for not cleaning up my mill before taking the photos, but i took them immediately after i completed the installation, with only basic cleaning being done before taking the photos.
> 
> I started with the x readout, which required a 24" rail. The x travel on this mill is only 15.125", but with the table being 24" long, i still had to cut the rail down to an appropriate length. The x axis was the only rail that i had to trim, and it was easily accomplished with a flex shaft tool and a small cutoff wheel. By mounting the rail with the plastic strip facing out, and the cable from the read head sticking up, and the origin set to zero when the table is all the way to the right, the numbers will climb as the table is moved to the left. In order to leave room behind the rail so that the read head could be mounted to the existing stop block, 1/2" thick spacers were placed between the rail and the table.
> View attachment 84724
> 
> 
> a simple piece of 1/8" x 1/2" flat stock was used to mount the read head to the stop block.
> View attachment 84725
> 
> 
> 
> y travel on this mill is only 5.125" and it was done next, using a 6" dro with the rail flipped over so that the plastic strip is facing the knee, and the cable exiting the bottom of the read head. When the table is moved as far as possible away from the column, and the origin is set to zero, the numbers will climb as the table is moved toward the column. This may seem backwards to some, but it works well for me. I put spacers 5/16" thick between the knee and the rail. This allowed the read head to mount to the side of the saddle with a simple flat plate. The one in the photo is missing a screw. For some silly reason i drilled the two bottom holes the same distance apart as the top ones. Oops. Gotta make that plate over again.
> 
> Here is the rail mounting for the y axis.
> View attachment 84727
> 
> 
> and the read head mounting.
> View attachment 84726
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the z axis travels 11.625", and a 12" dro did the trick here. This is the one i dreaded the most due to the sloping shape of the side of the column, but this proved to be quite easy to get around, but it took some time. The bottom of the rail was mounted at the height shown in the photo, with the mounting screw at about the same elevation as the bottom part of the "g" in clausing. This position was determined in sort of a by guess and by gosh method, based on where the read head was mounted. I chose to mount the read head to the existing holes on the side of the knee. This allowed enough clearance for the y axis read head to pass, and also allowed access to the oiler for the knee gibs without giving the dro a bath in oil. There is a spacer 1.25" thick between the knee and the plate that mounts the read head. This spacer was made partially from 3/4" square tubing, which allowed for mounting the tube to the knee, then the remaining spacers and the read head bracket were fastened to the square tube. The rail was mounted with the plastic strip facing the knee, with the cable exiting from the rear of the read head. If the knee is placed at the bottom, and the origin is set to zero, the numbers will climb as the knee is raised. The bottom end of the rail has no spacers, but the top of the rail has a spacer 0.750" thick.
> 
> Z axis upper rail mount
> View attachment 84730
> 
> 
> z axis read head and lower rail mounts
> View attachment 84729
> 
> 
> last but not least, i mounted the readouts to the right side of the column and placed id stickers on them. My one son and his daughter are learning how to use the mill, so simply putting x,y, and z on them was not going to be enough. A quick explanation of what x. Y, and z are is included.
> View attachment 84728
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this entire project was completed in about six hours from start to finish, so it was not all that bad!  I still need to mount a piece of aluminum angle to the front of the table to cover the head and rail for the x axis, and i should do something for the y axis also, but for now i am happy just to have them mounted and usable!



super installation on the dro . . . Very compact


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## Terrywerm

34_40 said:


> TW, can I ask for a ballpark dollar value for this installation?  I'd like to do something like this also.  TIA :think1:





The DROPro 3 axis system runs about $1200 but the iGaging setup using one each of the 6", 12", and 24" units cost me under $250 shipped to my door.

I purchased them through a gentleman that is a member here, but he has retired from selling tools and equipment since then. Grizzly currently carries the same units at about the same price.


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## Kevinb71

Nice Job Terry!
You will enjoy the improved accuracy of the readouts. Have fun making chips!


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## 34_40

Thanks for the info.   300 bucks is do-able....   1200 won't be for a while!:whistle:


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## emasbury

Hey Terry thanks for the DRO install update, it looks really great. Since you are a fellow 8520 owner I have a question. I am in need of the course feed handle and the fine feed wheel for my 8520, would you happen to have any insight as to where I would be able to get them from? I have been watching ebay so far no luck there. Any and all help is needed and appreciated here. Thanks folks.


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## JPigg55

Some parts are still available from Clausing, give them a jingle.
http://www.clausing-industrial.com/partsService.asp
Clausing Parts
Phone: (800) 323-0972 
Fax: (269) 342-7888 
email: info@clausingsc.com


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## hman

34_40 said:


> Thanks for the info.   300 bucks is do-able....   1200 won't be for a while!:whistle:



Check out my post on this thread:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...ng-DRO-s?p=219544&highlight=dro350#post219544

The DRO-350 kit, plus the three "dongles," cost me around $160 (+shipping).  So if you're willing to do the soldering, and assuming you'll spend about $250-$300 for the iGaging scales, you can get a full-featured 3 axis DRO for around $450-$500.

PS - I forgot to mention in the above post that you need to change the "threshold" value for each scale, along with the counts per inch.  I think I set mine at 1 or 2, but 0 should work also.


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## Terrywerm

emasbury said:


> Hey Terry thanks for the DRO install update, it looks really great. Since you are a fellow 8520 owner I have a question. I am in need of the course feed handle and the fine feed wheel for my 8520, would you happen to have any insight as to where I would be able to get them from? I have been watching ebay so far no luck there. Any and all help is needed and appreciated here. Thanks folks.



You could make the coarse feed handle yourself rather easily. Refer to the included photo. If you have any other questions about it, let me know.


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## JPigg55

FYI:
For anyone using igagind scales for a DRO, some people may have issues with electromagnetic feedback from motors, lights, etc, causing the scale displays to jump around.
This is due to the fact that they don't come with shielded cables. From their website, they plan on adding a shielded cable option to their Absolute scale line in the future.
For now, you can find replacement shielded cables here: http://www.dcables.net/. Just put R20560 in the site search bar. This was the only way I could find them on the site.
These cables are a little thicker than the OEM cables and you will have to grind down the insulation a little on the plug heads, but will work.Igaging scale use a male mini B to male mini B plug connector and are extremely hard to find. Dcables.net is the only place I could find them.


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## Fabrickator

Good Job on the DROs!  Time and money well spent.  

I have the typical iGauging DROS from Grizzly on my lathe and mill, on all axis.  I haven't done any research on the "Absolute" model. Can you provide a brief description of the difference?  I could research it for myself, but I'll bet someone else may be thinking the same thing.  Maybe I should consider upgrading someday?

Rick


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## Kevinb71

Nice Job Terry.
I got some of those scales when he had them on sale too! Maybe this will help motivate me.


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## lens42

Another very nice upgrade for these scales is here:
http://www.yuriystoys.com/p/android-dro.html

It's little Arduino project that uses an Android tablet for the display wirelessly over Bluetooth, and adds features you don't get on expensive DROs. You can get a used tablet on EBay for $50. I made two of these (lathe and mill) and they are outstanding.


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## JPigg55

Fabrickator,
Terrywerm gave a summary of the Absolute model here - http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/26283-igaging-DRO-comparison
I'm unsure of the specs on previous models.

The Yuriy's Toys DRO is next on my list after I get my scales installed. Already have the App on my phone.


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## JPigg55

Mounted my last igaging scale on my mill today, thanks for the pictures Terry it helped immensely. Now to tackle mounting them on my lathe.
Ordered the Arduino parts a couple days ago to make a Touch DRO controller for both machines. Will do a post with pictures after I get them on and working.
I've been reading up on Touch DRO version 2. Looks to be quite a few added features. Too bad the "Tool List" doesn't have a library of tools to select or a master library one could just select to add tools to your own personal tool list. I don't have a Twitter account and no where else to submit the idea. Maybe someone here has contact info to float the idea to add a tool library. Be so much easier than manually inputting each and every tool.
Maybe it's already an option and I just haven't figured it out yet.


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## lens42

There is a Google+ Community devoted to TouchDRO. Feature suggestions are often posted there. Sorry for no link. I'm on my phone. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## firemech

JPigg55 said:


> FYI:
> For anyone using igagind scales for a DRO, some people may have issues with electromagnetic feedback from motors, lights, etc, causing the scale displays to jump around.
> This is due to the fact that they don't come with shielded cables. From their website, they plan on adding a shielded cable option to their Absolute scale line in the future.
> For now, you can find replacement shielded cables here: http://www.dcables.net/. Just put R20560 in the site search bar. This was the only way I could find them on the site.
> These cables are a little thicker than the OEM cables and you will have to grind down the insulation a little on the plug heads, but will work.Igaging scale use a male mini B to male mini B plug connector and are extremely hard to find. Dcables.net is the only place I could find them.



Have done the install and the everything works great except the X axis (24 inch unit) seems to have a "wondering display" after it is turned on. I power the display up and about 20 seconds after it powers up the display starts to increase and decrease even though the table is not being moved or even touched. This occurs if the mill motor is running or not. The Y and Z axis units seem to work great. Do I have a faulty unit, did cutting the 24" unit create a problem or is there some check I might do. I have changed the batteries in the display thinking a low battery might cause an issue but it made no difference:thinking:


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## davidh

did you take the "read head" off the scale and get it reversed when you put it back on ? ? ?


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## firemech

davidh said:


> did you take the "read head" off the scale and get it reversed when you put it back on ? ? ?



It would appear that is exactly what I did. Took the reading head off to cut the scale and must have mixed it up. Slid the scale of and rotated it end for end; slid it back in and now the display functioning as it should. Thank you davidh for your words of wisdom.


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## Ed ke6bnl

very helpful thanks, a lot like my Burke Millrite that needs these


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## davidh

terrywerm said:


> The DROPro 3 axis system runs about $1200 but the iGaging setup using one each of the 6", 12", and 24" units cost me under $250 shipped to my door.
> 
> I purchased them through a gentleman that is a member here, but he has retired from selling tools and equipment since then. Grizzly currently carries the same units at about the same price.



*terry, I'm back in it again.  i got a boatload of both imaging and absolute scales just after the first of the year. . . . .*


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## davidh

Fabrickator said:


> Good Job on the DROs!  Time and money well spent.
> 
> I have the typical iGauging DROS from Grizzly on my lathe and mill, on all axis.  I haven't done any research on the "Absolute" model. Can you provide a brief description of the difference?  I could research it for myself, but I'll bet someone else may be thinking the same thing.  Maybe I should consider upgrading someday?
> 
> Rick




*rick you can go here and look around and see the specs.  there is not much more information than what i've shown*


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## TOOLMASTER

Have you tried swapping plugs see if problem follows sender or read out unit





firemech said:


> Have done the install and the everything works great except the X axis (24 inch unit) seems to have a "wondering display" after it is turned on. I power the display up and about 20 seconds after it powers up the display starts to increase and decrease even though the table is not being moved or even touched. This occurs if the mill motor is running or not. The Y and Z axis units seem to work great. Do I have a faulty unit, did cutting the 24" unit create a problem or is there some check I might do. I have changed the batteries in the display thinking a low battery might cause an issue but it made no difference:thinking:


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## Terrywerm

davidh said:


> *terry, I'm back in it again.  i got a boatload of both imaging and absolute scales just after the first of the year. . . . .*



Just can't keep a good man down, eh?  

It is good to know that you have them available again. I sure like the ones that I got from you!


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## jer

I'd like a pair of DROs for my lathe and another setup for my "future" mill hopefully before David runs out.


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## outboardguy44

For the fella asking about the fine-feed handwheel - I made up one for my 8530 out of a 3-inch diameter brass disc, just a matter of drilling a 1/8" hole for the drive pin, another hole at 3/8" to fit over the shaft, and coming up with a knob or handle for it. I scrounged a wooden knob and shoulder screw off an antique Huqvarna sewing machine and used that. I also found some generic plastic handwheels in the junque box at work and modified one of those to work, but I like the brass one much better.

Best,
T2


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## Wildman326

I just finished this install. Very helpful write-up!!!! This is probably a cardinal sin, but I cut down the block to tighten up the X-Axis install.


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## hman

Absolutely nothing wrong with that!  The hardware supplied with DRO scales is the vendor's best guess as to what will fit the majority of tools (BOTH lathes and mills).  So customization is always the name of the game.  Make it fit, make it work.


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