# I Just Got My First CNC Machine and Have Sooo Much to Learn (Genmitsu 3018 Router)



## Shootymacshootface (Aug 10, 2021)

I am going to have so many questions. Fortunately my son is a professional CNC programmer and machinist. He was here until 1:30 am last night to get me started and had to get up at 6 am for work today. I am so grateful to have him! He left his very powerful laptop here for me to run my machine. 
My question for tonight is, can I take the memory stick out of his computer while the program is running? I don't think its using the stick to run it, but I'm not sure.
Earlier today his computer went to sleep and the router stopped in the middle of a part. I just had to change a setting on his computer.
Thanks in advance. 
There will be many more questions! 
I look at this as getting my feet wet before I get a real CNC machine.


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## Braeden P (Aug 10, 2021)

Tighten everything! On mine the spindle fell straight into the table and 1/2 inch of walnut and went 34 IPM and that sounded horrible. Good for wood and okay for metal for engraving but it makes heck of a racket!


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## Shootymacshootface (Aug 10, 2021)

Hi Braeden, I'm cutting 3/4" Starboard right now. I have 72 pieces to cut (its a lot). I was going to do this on my Bridgeport but after making 2 pieces I ordered this from Amazon and got it the next day.
Btw, Starboard is similar to Delrin. I already ordered a 20,000 rpm motor and a dedicated power supply for it. I want to use a 1/4" 3 flute carbide endmill because each piece needs 4 6mm holes. If the router only has to plunge to make each hole this will save a lot of time. Even if the pocket takes longer to cut out.


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## Boswell (Aug 10, 2021)

Welcome to the CNC world. Sounds like you are off to a good start. Looking forward to pictures (the only real currency here   )


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## Shootymacshootface (Aug 10, 2021)

Here is a part being cut. I made a fence for the back and right side for repeatability. I don't want to say what it is because I finally found something that there is quite a demand for and cannot be purchased anywhere. 
And it is simple!


Yes, that is my kitchen table. I wanted to be comfortable while this is being set up. There is still a bit more programming to do. They will be going back on the Bridgeport for a 45* chamfer on the outside edges.


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## Firstram (Aug 11, 2021)

Chamfer the edges with a hand held router and carbide chamfer bit, fast and smooth.


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## Shootymacshootface (Aug 11, 2021)

Firstram said:


> Chamfer the edges with a hand held router and carbide chamfer bit, fast and smooth.


Ha ha, I don't have a conventional router! But, I do have 2 knee mills. I have just been clamping them in a vise with a stop and running by the cutter with the power feed at full speed. I also set up the vise to open and close with a 3/8" impact gun. It's pretty quick.
Thanks!


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## Aukai (Aug 11, 2021)

Good for you, this is me, and CNC  


			https://c.tenor.com/5fnQ8ZTwpdwAAAAd/tracey-morgan-no.gif


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## Shootymacshootface (Aug 11, 2021)

Is there a way to make a programable air blaster to blow the chips away? A stong burst of air every 30-40 seconds would let me run this without having to vacuum the slot when it starts to get deep. Obviously not in my kitchen!


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## Shootymacshootface (Aug 11, 2021)

Aukai said:


> Good for you, this is me, and CNC
> 
> 
> https://c.tenor.com/5fnQ8ZTwpdwAAAAd/tracey-morgan-no.gif


Haha, that was me until a few days ago!


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## Boswell (Aug 11, 2021)

Shootymacshootface said:


> Is there a way to make a programable air blaster to blow the chips away?


you might consider just having a constant flow of air to blow away chips. My limited experience is with cutting metal on a CNC Mill and not Acetate on a router but I use a constant flow of air directed at the cutter to remove the chips quickly. At least in metal (aluminum and steel), re-cutting chips will cause all sorts of negative things like excess heat, lower accuracy, shorter tool life. Not sure if you need or even if it is advisable to also mix a coolant with the air flow like I do on the mill.


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## JimDawson (Aug 11, 2021)

Shootymacshootface said:


> Is there a way to make a programable air blaster to blow the chips away? A stong burst of air every 30-40 seconds would let me run this without having to vacuum the slot when it starts to get deep. Obviously not in my kitchen!



Sure, but a continuous blast is better.  And can also be programed to come on with the start of cutting and stop on program end.


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## Shootymacshootface (Aug 15, 2021)

I solved my swarf problem by upgrading the spindle motor. I replaced the 10,000rpm motor with a 20,000rpm motor. There were instructions to ramp up the spindle speed as to not overload the control board. After a few parts were run thru, the spindle would not turn off unless the power was disconnected. Something fused closed on the board.
I should have a new board today that is rated for a more powerful spindle. I'm not going to trust this by just plugging it back in.
I'm building an independent power supply to run the dc motor and it will be switched on and off via a relay controlled by the original power wires for the spindle.
	

		
			
		

		
	



I'm still working at the kitchen table.


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## Shootymacshootface (Aug 15, 2021)

Well, my dc power supply's voltage is too high. It would work fine for a treadmill motor, so I'll save it for my belt grinder project. I will look around here for a powerful laptop power supply. I really don't want to run the motor off of the new controller.


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## Shootymacshootface (Aug 16, 2021)

I have my power supply sorted out! Here's the deal, I got my new board yesterday, that fixed my spindle control problem (it would not turn off unless I pulled the plug). I got my new dc motor controller and stopped by work to get a 24v relay for a Volvo loader. I am now running a 20v power supply to run the board and the steppers. The board has a 12v side that I believe runs everything but the spindle, so I am confident that 20v is ok there. The original hi output 24v power supply is now dedicated to run the spindle, and power is switched with the 24v relay in the positive wire before the spindle. The relay is controlled by the original spindle power wires. I have run 3 parts so far, and it is working very well.
Here is what it it looks like.


Also, I think that I mentioned that I was having a problem with swarf control and had to constantly be vacuuming while the router was running. This is what the 20,000rpm spindle and a larger 3 flute endmill did for me.


I only have to vacuum now to load a new part!
This is an entry level cnc router. I was pretty sure that it would do what I needed it to do for this job. You can only expect so much from a light machine like this (it's actually meant for engraving). We started with a 46 minute run time for each part. We got it down to 18 minutes, but bumped it back up to 22 minutes by decreasing the feed rate to prevent it from self destructing. I'm halfway way thru the 72 parts that I have to make. It seems like it will hold together so that I can get this job done.
Good little machine after a few upgrades!


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## matthewsx (Aug 17, 2021)

Nice, makes me want to get back to my CNC project.

Only know Starboard from machine applications, never seen it in black. When you make a million dollars I hope you’ll share the product with us.

John


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## Shootymacshootface (Aug 17, 2021)

matthewsx said:


> Nice, makes me want to get back to my CNC project.
> 
> Only know Starboard from machine applications, never seen it in black. When you make a million dollars I hope you’ll share the product with us.
> 
> John


After my my aluminum/powder coated prototypes are finished, and samples given to 3 local marinas, I will make a decision about getting a Tormach type machine. 
The little router has been cranking away all night without skipping a beat. 
I know it will cut the 1/2 aluminum. My son says that a coated endmill and slowing the feed way down should do the trick. And we shouldn't need and lubricant.


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## Shootymacshootface (Aug 18, 2021)

My x axis lead screw was wably. I thought that it was bent right out of the package. I took it out and checked it on v blocks. It was perfect! It turns out that the 2 set screws that attach it to the coupling needed to be tightened evenly. 

Also the linear bearings for the x axis were developing a bit of play on the rods. I just ordered 2 kinds of replacements. Factory replacements and flanged replacements. The flanged bearings can be secured to the outside of the body and will provide a slightly wider footprint. I should have them tomorrow. I'm 2/3 of the way thru this job, and this little machine doesn't owe me anything! 
	

		
			
		

		
	




There is an all aluminum x/z axis upgrade available for this machine, but at this point I don't think that it is necessary. I do still have some aluminum parts to make though.


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