# 3-in-1 Table Riser



## LX Kid (Mar 6, 2016)

The Grizzly 3-In-1 Drill/Mill is a very inconvenient machine to be able to use the milling spindle.  The spindle does not lower down very far to be able to use it adequately.  A riser of about 2.5"-3" would be good.  Does anyone have any ideas on a riser to be able to mount various vices higher up off the table?  The commercial  table risers I've seen are pretty expensive!   a "3x6"x7" block of 6061 aluminum would  be adequate.  If you have figured it out I'd like to see some pics or suggestions for an economical riser.  Thanks


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## LX Kid (Mar 6, 2016)

The vice that came on the cross-slipe is pretty much useless as it is too low and very weak.  Bolting vice directly to the table, with quill all the way down, still leaves about 6" to the vice.


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## Bob Korves (Mar 6, 2016)

Get your aluminum block and cut some t-slots in it or drill a hole pattern on the top and thread the holes.  You will also need a method to hold it to the cross slide/mill table on the 3in1.  A couple slots in the sides of the block and toe clamps to hold it down will work.


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## extropic (Mar 6, 2016)

Set-up blocks are widely available in 1-2-3, 2-3-4 and 2-4-6 configurations. They're hardened and ground steel, so durable and quite accurate (.0001-.0002").

For example: http://www.use-enco.com/1/1/62386-13-671-3-spi-2-4-6-sets-w-holes-1-2-3-2-3-4-setup-blocks.html

Edit: Looked on eBay & found this. Gotta be a bargain at $52 all in. http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-MATCHED-P...b059dfc&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=6&sd=301869197167


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## Glenn_ca (Mar 6, 2016)

I was going to recommend this but it is currently out of stock. Maybe contact them and see if more are on the way.
http://www.busybeetools.com/products/elevating-block-for-b2229-and-b2071.html


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## LX Kid (Mar 6, 2016)

Bob Korves said:


> Get your aluminum block and cut some t-slots in it or drill a hole pattern on the top and thread the holes.  You will also need a method to hold it to the cross slide/mill table on the 3in1.  A couple slots in the sides of the block and toe clamps to hold it down will work.



I have a piece of 2x8 wood that I'm thinking of using.  Not exactly precision thickness but if I can find someone with a wood planner to run it thru I believe it will do for my hobby needs at the moment.  I'll also put an aluminum plate on top and bottom of the wood.   Just remember, "You pay less you get less!"


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## dulltool17 (Mar 6, 2016)

I have the exact same machine and. of course, the exact same problem.  I actually use a  full-size, 6" mill vise on my machine, and still want more height.  The Lathe is pretty rugged, but the mill isn't.  What I really want is a chunk of 2" thick Aluminum that's about 9" Square to use to bolt down the vise.

You're not going to get where you want by using the compound/"vise."  I pretty much discovered that the first time I wanted to use the mill. I think a thick chunk of Aluminum would get the height and provide sufficient rigidity.   Of course, Steel would be better, but good luck with that.......


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## LX Kid (Mar 7, 2016)

Used my "chunk of wood" today to see how it might work out.  Came out not to bad but have to find a couple more t-nuts on the opposing corners to put it down flush with the table.  It already seems ok but I'll leave it on the table pulled down tight for several days to take any warpage out.  This will work for any roughing I may need and them go over to my mill for any accuracy needed.  "Bubba'a back in town!"


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## kamn (Mar 8, 2016)

I have the Busy Bee version of your lathe/mill combo and with a 5inch vise I used the 2-3-4 blocks as risers to do some rough milling



I also purchased the 6inch elevating block the sell for this machine......... http://www.busybeetools.com/products/elevating-block-for-b2229-and-b2071.html


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## LX Kid (Mar 8, 2016)

kamn said:


> I have the Busy Bee version of your lathe/mill combo and with a 5inch vise I used the 2-3-4 blocks as risers to do some rough milling.  I also purchased the 6inch elevating block the sell for this machine......... http://www.busybeetools.com/products/elevating-block-for-b2229-and-b2071.html



Yes I do like the block idea.   I may have a set of blocks in the tool box.  That might be just "too easy" for a stubborn old mule like myself!  LoL  On second thought they may be "V" blocks I have.   Have to check it out.  Thanks


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## kamn (Mar 8, 2016)

Just a note: the closer you can get to the end mill without extending it from the mill head will result in less "flex" while cutting, from personal experience with this machine


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## LX Kid (Mar 8, 2016)

kamn said:


> Just a note: the closer you can get to the end mill without extending it from the mill head will result in less "flex" while cutting, from personal experience with this machine



"Affirmative!"  That's military for "uh-huh!  LoL


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## LX Kid (Mar 11, 2016)

Ordered 1-2-3 blocks yesterday for the vice and other work when needed.

UPDATE:  3/11/16

Wow!  My 1-2-3 blocks already arrived in the mail today.   And wouldn't you just know it!  I was looking for a place to store the new ones and found a set that I already had.  So now I have 3 sets!


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## kgowedan (Mar 24, 2016)

This was a solution for my Smithy 1220 LTD, same problem for most all of the  3 in 1 machines. Like has been said before, the 3 in 1's are a compermise, compaired to stand alone machines.    http://www.smithy.com/accessories/MzQtNTAw


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## General Zod (Jun 17, 2016)

LX Kid said:


> Ordered 1-2-3 blocks yesterday for the vice and other work when needed.
> 
> UPDATE:  3/11/16
> 
> Wow!  My 1-2-3 blocks already arrived in the mail today.   And wouldn't you just know it!  I was looking for a place to store the new ones and found a set that I already had.  So now I have 3 sets!



Wanna sell me a set?


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## Shepherd (Jun 17, 2016)

Find a couple of prices of aluminum rectangular tube, 1/4 inch wall, arounmaybe 1x2 inches, cut as wide as you carriage table.  Face one side, cut slot for bolts to hold down to table. Flip them, face them.   Then grab a pice of 1/4-1/2" aluminum plate, clamp to the blocks, which are bolted to the table, drill holes, tap the blocks, bolt plate to blocks.   Face plate, drill a butt load of holes and tap them.  Works for me!


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## Driveslayer45 (Jun 7, 2019)

This is an old thread, I know, but I am sure there are others like me still struggling with this issue.  I've tried the 123 blocks found there was still too much flex. I've tried making a set for four pillars out of 1.25" cold rolled. This wasn't bad but still had a hard time. Currently, and what seems to be the best for me, is stacking granite surface plates. Bought 2 from grizzly, 6x8x2, this has the benefit of providing alot of contact surface for the base of the vise and causes less flex than the other methods, imo. And they we're fairly cheap.
Grizzly G9647 6-Inch by 8-Inch by 2-Inch Granite Surface Plate, No Ledge


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## T Bredehoft (Jun 7, 2019)

Just an observation, that 3/4  inch two flute end mill is going to generate bounce as it  cuts. My PM25 works best with a 3/16 cutter, though  i do have a 3/8 six flute that cuts pretty smoothly. The larger end mills work well in machines that have commas in their weight. like 3,500.


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