# Epoxy floor for a new shop, good idea or bad?



## diamond (Feb 9, 2021)

We just went into contract on a new house and it has a very nice 1100 sq-ft shop building with unfinished concrete floor.  Insulated, 200A service, etc.  Super excited about that and I'll probably have lots to share on getting the new shop on line in a separate thread once it gets going but I have a specific question for the community.

I'm considering having the floor epoxy coated before I start moving in.   I'm wondering what experiences others have had with doing this I might learn from and avoid any possible mistakes I might regret.   I'll probably hire it done.  I know there's DIY kits and I'm tempted but I'll be so busy with the move and getting our current house sold that I don't want to take that on.  Plus I think (maybe?) I'll get a better result from a professional.  Not sure if these DIY kits are as good?

Any advice or experience folks can share is appreciated.   I've never had an epoxy floor.   My current shop floor is unfinished concrete and I have lots of stains from my Bridgeport, various cutting fluids etc.   My hope is to have something much easier to keep clean and be durable.    Have folks had chipping if a tool or part is dropped?   What about welding/slag, will it damage the epoxy?   I could think about epoxy for 1/2 the shop for the machine area and welding etc. on the other unfinished half but I'd like to do the whole thing.   I'll also probably want something for anti-slip, like some kind of grit or something added.

Other thoughts/advice/pros/cons etc.?

Thanks in advance!


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## Braeden P (Feb 9, 2021)

diamond said:


> We just went into contract on a new house and it has a very nice 1100 sq-ft shop building with unfinished concrete floor.  Insulated, 200A service, etc.  Super excited about that and I'll probably have lots to share on getting the new shop on line in a separate thread once it gets going but I have a specific question for the community.
> 
> I'm considering having the floor epoxy coated before I start moving in.   I'm wondering what experiences others have had with doing this I might learn from and avoid any possible mistakes I might regret.   I'll probably hire it done.  I know there's DIY kits and I'm tempted but I'll be so busy with the move and getting our current house sold that I don't want to take that on.  Plus I think (maybe?) I'll get a better result from a professional.  Not sure if these DIY kits are as good?
> 
> ...


never used any but i would be worried about hot chips and sparks melting it


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## tmenyc (Feb 9, 2021)

I have pretty significant experience with epoxied floors and countertops. At my day job, we epoxied our lower level hallways and are now using epoxy exclusively in replacing countertops in our residence hall. It is impervious to just about anything (and, of course, irreversible without explosives..), looks great, can be produced in any color or pattern you want with a bit of expertise and experience. Our facilities director is the epoxy guy, and he also epoxied a poured concrete floor and a 35 ft mahogany bar in a pub a friend owned here in NYC. I was involved with all of these jobs (his supervisor but I like to help with projects...). The floor in the bar looked like a swimming pool when it was done, just incredible. I can put you in touch with our facilities director if you'd like. Also, while the stuff and everything you need to use it isn't cheap, all in its cost to DIY is a small fraction of having it done. Needs lots of cold beer and a hot summer night though. 
I don't know about hot chips scarring or melting it, but this stuff is pretty hard and I don't believe chips would stay hot enough long enough to damage it. Certainly not sparks. 
Tim


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## Braeden P (Feb 9, 2021)

tmenyc said:


> I have pretty significant experience with epoxied floors and countertops. At my day job, we epoxied our lower level hallways and are now using epoxy exclusively in replacing countertops in our residence hall. It is impervious to just about anything (and, of course, irreversible without explosives..), looks great, can be produced in any color or pattern you want with a bit of expertise and experience. Our facilities director is the epoxy guy, and he also epoxied a poured concrete floor and a 35 ft mahogany bar in a pub a friend owned here in NYC. I was involved with all of these jobs (his supervisor but I like to help with projects...). The floor in the bar looked like a swimming pool when it was done, just incredible. I can put you in touch with our facilities director if you'd like. Also, while the stuff and everything you need to use it isn't cheap, all in its cost to DIY is a small fraction of having it done. Needs lots of cold beer and a hot summer night though.
> I don't know about hot chips scarring or melting it, but this stuff is pretty hard and I don't believe chips would stay hot enough long enough to damage it. Certainly not sparks.
> Tim


i should have said slag from oxy fuel cutting


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## tmenyc (Feb 9, 2021)

I'll ask...going to have a call with him in a few mins anyway.
Tim


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## Ulma Doctor (Feb 9, 2021)

I have epoxy floors in the garage 
I’m hard on floors and I don’t see any reason to tell you it is a bad idea to lay down epoxy!


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## todd281 (Feb 9, 2021)

There are pros and cons. the stuff I have used is very durable It would not put up with a acetylene torch directly applied,  but pretty tough easy to clean up spills [oil and such] the big minus is it can be very slippery. Some add "flakes" to add traction . if it were me I would ask about that. So in a weld/burn shop ,, not so good. In a general work area,, not a bad idea. Just my two cents. Good luck on your new home


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## Braeden P (Feb 9, 2021)

well if it can hold up to a lot why not  i would use it.


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## tmenyc (Feb 9, 2021)

Practice on something you can trash first. It took some time to get the process down, and ambient temp and humidity matter with the setting times. Also, it is absolutely a one session job, has to be done to completion at one time.  Pretty impressive to be there when the hardener kicks in...time moves fast then...


Tim


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## Papa Charlie (Feb 9, 2021)

In Chico, moisture wicking up through the concrete may not be an issue. But if the specific area has issues, I would use one of the concrete sealers that flow down into the slab and seals it first before putting the Epoxy on the surface. This will help the adhesion and limit the moisture that could form in the concrete.


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## RJSakowski (Feb 9, 2021)

Expect grinding sparks and welding slag to pit the epoxy.  They will pit glass which melts at a much higher temperature.


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## diamond (Feb 9, 2021)

I should have mentioned, new shop is in Prescott AZ.   We're escaping California.

I'd love to hear more about things like grinding chips pitting the epoxy.   Folks have experience with that happening?  Seems sorta surprising but maybe it can.

Also should clarify this is more of a gunsmithing/hobby shop than a welding/fab shop.   Mostly mill and lathe work.  Though I do want to have the capacity to MIG/braze/cut once and a while.  Pretty light welding when I do.  I could keep one area in the shop concrete and only epoxy the area where the machining goes on.


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## diamond (Feb 9, 2021)

tmenyc said:


> I'll ask...going to have a call with him in a few mins anyway.
> Tim


I appreciate that!


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## kb58 (Feb 9, 2021)

In car garage forums, there are mixed opinions, one being that if you park a car on it with warm tires, they sort of glue themselves to the floor. Get back in the car and turn the wheel, and they rip a patch of epoxy right out of the floor. For your shop-only situation, that shouldn't be an issue.


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## tmenyc (Feb 9, 2021)

kb58 said:


> In car garage forums, there are mixed opinions, one being that if you park a car on it with warm tires, they sort of glue themselves to the floor. Get back in the car and turn the wheel, and they rip a patch of epoxy right out of the floor.


I think that is an issue if the mixture of resin and hardener wasn't right to begin with, for any epoxy. It's rock hard when done right.


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## Papa Charlie (Feb 9, 2021)

You are probably already aware of this, but I would completely separate dirty operations from your gunsmithing ops. I know when I am working on my weapons, especially my competition guns, I do so only in a clean room type of environment. 

I know my shop plans include an isolated room where I will do my gun work and reloading, separate from the rest of the fab shop area.


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## 7milesup (Feb 9, 2021)

I had an epoxy floor in my previous shop.  It was a grey base coat with the paint chips applied, and then sealed with a clear epoxy top coat.  It looked awesome and held up well for the 11 years I was there.  There were two downsides to it....1.) if you were welding and did get any splatters it would pit it, but that will be true of ANY floor coating you put down.  As RJ mentioned, welding splatter pits glass, so my best advice is either have a dedicated area for welding (why not outside if in AZ?) or buy a TIG welder and then you don't need to worry about it.
2.)  If you walked onto the floor with wet shoes, it is quite slippery.  The more paint chips you put in the coating though, the greater the texture and the less likely slipping.  I put carpet remnant inside of the door to wipe my feet on, which worked well.

My new shop has a stained floor* https://simstain.com/* with a TK sealer overlay. Looks awesome! The only downside to that is the sealer is more like a lacquer so solvents melt it, however, you can touch up areas if that happens. I probably should have gone with a clear epoxy overlay but I was under a deadline when I built the shop. Too late now...


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## 7milesup (Feb 9, 2021)

The first three are pictures of my old shop with the epoxy coating.

The last two are of my new shop with the Sim Stain and the clear coating.  I love the variegated look of the new shop.


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## NCjeeper (Feb 9, 2021)

I used the DIY Rustoleum kits for my previous shop. Put it down on new concrete. Prepped as the instructions said. It didnt hold up well, especially in the high traffic areas. I wouldnt do it again.


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## tq60 (Feb 9, 2021)

If not poured yet contact the builder to insure vapor block under pad.

Usually a plastic membrane is placed.

Requedr

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


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## NCjeeper (Feb 9, 2021)

^^^
Shouldn't pass inspection without it.


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## finsruskw (Feb 9, 2021)

Here's mine and I'm lovin' it every day when I walk in there!!
No welding or hot burning sparks in this section though.
Caution...If you drop nuts/bolts/small tools they are hard to find with this color option


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## 7milesup (Feb 9, 2021)

Oh, I should mention that  the Rustoleum kit I used was NOT the water based crap.  I believe there have been issues of the water based epoxy coming up when cars are parked on it, etc.


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## finsruskw (Feb 9, 2021)

tq60 said:


> If not poured yet contact the builder to insure vapor block under pad.
> 
> Usually a plastic membrane is placed.
> 
> ...


I laid down 1-1/2 Styrofoam sheet under my floor before it was poured.
That was back in 1977.
Same for the basement house floors, Stays warm!


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## 7milesup (Feb 9, 2021)

Love your shop there finsruskw!  I wish I could keep mine that clean.


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## finsruskw (Feb 9, 2021)

Hey, I wish I could too!!
You know the saying...
It's only new once!!

I'd like to do the other 1/4 of the bldg just adjacent to this section the same way and keep this part for the machine shop area.
Hoping someday My Son will get a lot of use from this, that is if he don't build his own next door. If so, I'm sure he could rent this space out.


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## aliva (Feb 9, 2021)

you might contact these guys for more info





						Dallas-Fort Worth Stamped Concrete Contractor & Epoxy Floor Service
					

Surface 2 Surface DFW features the world’s greatest 3/8″ High-Definition Stamped Concrete overlay system which can be applied over any existing stable surfaces for commercial and residential clients.



					www.s2sdfw.com


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## diamond (Feb 9, 2021)

Thanks for all the input guys, keep it coming.    This is an existing shop building.   The seller had a bunch of their stuff on it when we looked at the house so I couldn't really tell what the condition is exactly.   I did see some previous oil stains/spills so I know it'll take some conditioning before the epoxy goes down.    

@Papa Charlie Ya I'm same way.   I'll have a separate assembly bench in the shop and also another general gun maintenance station in the garage.  The main house garage is over 1200 sq-ft itself in addition to the shop so I'll have plenty of room.

Honestly I don't weld a lot and in fact, very little.  So actually the idea of welding and/or cutting outside is not a bad suggestion at all.   As you said, it is Arizona.   

I'm more concerned if hot chips of the lathe or grinder could pit it.   I read that epoxy floors can withstand up to 250 degrees.   A hot chip can be a lot hotter than that.   I mostly want something to be easy to clean up and keep looking nice.  Now you guys have me wondering about just sealing the concrete and how that would hold up against cutting fluids etc.   I know the epoxy will do well with that.   Plus it just looks good.


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## 7milesup (Feb 9, 2021)

Personally, I would epoxy coat it for what you are planning on doing in that shop.

As far as hot chips from the lathe, it would be best to have a large rubber mat to stand on in front of the lathe.    I know without that, my knees and low back are not happy with me.

There recently was a whole thread on here about rubber mats.


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## DavidR8 (Feb 9, 2021)

@7milesup If you want to learn more about epoxy floors than you could ever imagine existed drop over to the flooring sub-forum on The Garage Journal. There a heap of folks there that have done or had done epoxy floors. 
Thanks for the SimStain link. I need to do something with the floor in my shop.


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## 7milesup (Feb 9, 2021)

Yeah, Dave.  I have been over there, but not much lately.
I did a custom trailer for myself to haul my RC models around in.  I was able to get 20% off the flooring by providing my username to the company I bought my floor from.  Pretty cool deal.  It was *https://racedeck.com/*


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## middle.road (Feb 9, 2021)

Can you do mine while you're at it?   
One of the regrets I have, should have done it when we were moving in. You've got fresh concrete, I'd go for it!
Wish I had prioritized it just for the non-slip attributes. I've slipped a few times coming in from outside when it's wet.


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## shell70634 (Feb 9, 2021)

I stained and sealed my gunroom floor a medium brown.  In hindsight, I wish I would have used bright white epoxy to take advantage of the light reflection.  I was in a shop years ago where a man was working under a vehicle without a drop light.  The building was well lit and the floor was bright white.  The older I get any extra light helps

Shelly


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## boneyard51 (Feb 9, 2021)

We just did my neighbors garage with a kit from Lowe’s. This is his second garage and had this in both. But he does not weld. Looks great! Can‘t believe the difference it made over the cement floor!We used a lot of those flakes.




 Bones


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## Forty Niner (Feb 9, 2021)

shell70634 said:


> I stained and sealed my gunroom floor a medium brown.  In hindsight, I wish I would have used bright white epoxy to take advantage of the light reflection.  I was in a shop years ago where a man was working under a vehicle without a drop light.  The building was well lit and the floor was bright white.  The older I get any extra light helps
> 
> Shelly



I totally agree about the light colored floor.  And I would add that I personally think I would NOT add the flakes.  Think about finding a small part that gets dropped on the floor.   A dark floor and or one with the flakes makes it hard to find dropped items.  A nice clean light smooth floor makes finding items easier.


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## Papa Charlie (Feb 10, 2021)

@Forty Niner I am with you on the flakes. Had a neighbor put that flooring down in his Garage/Man Cave. I liked the finish but the flakes not so much. Helped him with a couple of projects. The flakes were very distracting and if you drop a screw, it seemed to blend into the flakes. Was kind of funny watching the two of us crawl around on the floor trying to feel for that stupid screw. By the time we found it, it was definitely time for a shot of something more enjoyable.


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## Cadillac (Feb 10, 2021)

Just completed epoxing my shop floor at work. 10k sqft used rust oleum gray with the sand.  Power washed with a hotsy and scrubbed with muratic acid. Power washed the next day again. Let dry a day then laid down the paint. Instead of the chips I mixed fine sand in the paint to give a better grip to the surface. The chips are okay but like said it’s harder to see dropped stuff on the floor.
Did the same process on my garage at home 10yrs ago and is as new as when I first painted. Worst part is floor is still slick especially with snow on your shoes.


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## DavidR8 (Feb 10, 2021)

boneyard51 said:


> We just did my neighbors garage with a kit from Lowe’s. This is his second garage and had this in both. But he does not weld. Looks great! Can‘t believe the difference it made over the cement floor!We used a lot of those flakes.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Do you recall the name of the product?


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## boneyard51 (Feb 10, 2021)

DavidR8 said:


> Do you recall the name of the product?


No, I don’t . I didn’t buy it and the cans are gone. But he did buy it at Lowe’s and the paint guy mixed some of it. We actually got two slightly different shades! Go to Lowe’s ask the paint guy for the epoxy garage floor paint. It is a two step process. You put the grey ( or what ever color) down , then spread the flakes, then come back with a sealer.  I was more of a spectator, as my niehbor’s b/l is a professional painter, so he did most of the work!  I called my neighbor, he said he couldn’t remember the “ name “ of it, just epoxy garage floor covering! It has been two months since we/he did it. No problems yet! Hope this helps.





Bones


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## boneyard51 (Feb 10, 2021)

One point on doing floors with the product we used , is it showed the cracks. Our pro painter did something, I can’t remember exactly what, but they showed through when we were finished. If I did it again I would paint the cracks, first then go over the whole thing. One coat was great on most of the floor, but you can see the crack treatment. Not a big thing..... but a thing!





Bones


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## Shotgun (Feb 11, 2021)

todd281 said:


> There are pros and cons. the stuff I have used is very durable It would not put up with a acetylene torch directly applied,  but pretty tough easy to clean up spills [oil and such] the big minus is it can be very slippery. Some add "flakes" to add traction . if it were me I would ask about that. So in a weld/burn shop ,, not so good. In a general work area,, not a bad idea. Just my two cents. Good luck on your new home


Add grit to it.  Your life depends on it.

I thought I would get away with not using the grit in my shop.  Then I got rain through the garage door.  I felt like I was returning to the 70's as I went down to a split. 

I added a second coat with some grit I got off the end of the driveway.  Does not take much at all.


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## Shotgun (Feb 11, 2021)

diamond said:


> I should have mentioned, new shop is in Prescott AZ.   We're escaping California.
> 
> I'd love to hear more about things like grinding chips pitting the epoxy.   Folks have experience with that happening?  Seems sorta surprising but maybe it can.
> 
> Also should clarify this is more of a gunsmithing/hobby shop than a welding/fab shop.   Mostly mill and lathe work.  Though I do want to have the capacity to MIG/braze/cut once and a while.  Pretty light welding when I do.  I could keep one area in the shop concrete and only epoxy the area where the machining goes on.


Get you a welding blanket from Harbor Freight.  Also good for just keeping the shop generally clean.


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## boneyard51 (Feb 11, 2021)

I tried  to get my neighbor to spread a little sand in the top coat. But he’s kinda go by the rules guy and it didn’t say you  could put sand in the top coat.....so no sand! I use to put sand blasting sand in paint all the time to add grip!





Bones


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## Tozguy (Feb 11, 2021)

diamond said:


> My current shop floor is unfinished concrete and I have lots of stains from my Bridgeport, various cutting fluids etc. My hope is to have something much easier to keep clean and be durable.


Cutting fluid, solvents, paint remover, fuel drips, tire marks, you never know what will happen and how the floor covering will take it. It has been close to 45 years since my new shop floor was treated with a clear sealer that soaked into the cement. It was applied shortly after the floor was cured and before anything was moved in. It smelled like h... and was probably very toxic until dry. But it did not chip, peel, discolour, or degrade from uv. It is easy to sweep and scrape dried paint off it. 

Although modern epoxy floor coverings have amazing qualities I wonder if epoxy would have stood up as well as that sealer has.


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## Papa Charlie (Feb 11, 2021)

I like the appearance of the Epoxy Painted floors, but I don't like the grip or flakes as it is hard to clean up, find parts, etc. My concern with a painted floor is it could become a sheet of ice and my knees would not do well if I were to slip on some water.

At least for now, my plan, when I get my shop, will be to put a sealer on the floor that soaks in. I will use a type that is not glossy to prevent it becoming a slip hazard. 

For me, it comes down to not what I want, but what I need.


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## Illinoyance (Feb 13, 2021)

I had bad luck with epoxy floors.  These were thicker than a coat of paint.  I always had problems with the epoxy lifting off the concrete.  There was concrete adhering to the bottom of the epoxy.  I blamed it on moisture migration through the concrete.  Maybe those applications that are 1 or 2 coats of epoxy paint have enough porosity to pass the moisture.


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## matthewsx (Feb 13, 2021)

I did epoxy when we moved to Mesa, AZ in July 2001. I did everything right, scrubbed with TSP, clean & dry, good quality 2 part epoxy. Looked great right up until it didn't and then what.... 

Yes, hot tires are a thing, also grinding and cutting marks.

IMHO it's a waste of money for a shop floor unless you're trying to impress clients (or friends). I've had very good luck since just coating with Thompsons Water Sealer or a similar product. It will keep oil from soaking into the cement and is easy to re-apply every few years.

But, I'm cheap and have had quite a few shops both professional and personal.

It's kinda like having a really nice paint job on a pickup truck IMHO.....


John


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## Shotgun (Feb 13, 2021)

matthewsx said:


> I did epoxy when we moved to Mesa, AZ in July 2001. I did everything right, scrubbed with TSP, clean & dry, good quality 2 part epoxy. Looked great right up until it didn't and then what....
> 
> Yes, hot tires are a thing, also grinding and cutting marks.
> 
> ...


For me, it was more about oil clean-up that just looking good.  It fights dirt and moisture better, so that sweeping pretty much get things clean.


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## Larry$ (Feb 14, 2021)

Illinoyance said:


> I always had problems with the epoxy lifting off the concrete. There was concrete adhering to the bottom of the epoxy. I blamed it on moisture migration through the concrete.


I'd bet $ the problem was with the concrete, not the epoxy. Way too often concrete is poured too wet. Then the surface is worked too soon and you end up with a lot of water and fines on the top, very weak.  Or someone uses "drier" also a very bad idea that makes a neat looking but very weak surface. If the concrete was not properly cured (kept wet & not allowed to dry out and kept above 40F as long as possible, 2 weeks?) the surface will be weaker. If curing compound is used be sure it can be fully stripped and is compatible with epoxy. Putting a sealer under epoxy will likely reduce adhesion.  
35 years ago I did two coats of epoxy on my new shop floor. It may have been a bit slick when new but traffic took the shine down some and then it was fine. I suspect you could do the same by just doing a very light/fast once over with a fine abrasive impregnated power brush. 
In addition to the oil resistance & easy clean up, using a light color improves the lighting. Prep is extremely important, clean, scrub with trisodium phosphate, rinse, vacuum.  Acid etch to remove any laitance (cement powder) and actually expose the top of the aggregate. Rinse twice and wet vacuum. Use a big wide roller and a mesh screen to even out the paint on the roller. The stuff gives off fumes that are probably bad for you, use a solvent mask. Do it in warm weather when you can have the place open. Move the air out with fans if possible. Do the second coat while the first is still within the recoat time. 

A lot of work but it is very durable, *Worth it*.


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## 7milesup (Feb 14, 2021)

matthewsx said:


> It's kinda like having a really nice paint job on a pickup truck IMHO.....
> 
> 
> John


Oh no.  You really didn't say that did you John?  Oh the humanity.  LOL

As a side note, I have a very nice truck that I do haul stuff in.    

Edit:  The function of the shop has a huge impact on what should/could be done with the floor.  My brothers shop (which is huge) is utilized for working on his large farm equipment.  Does it make sense to do an epoxy floor in that?  Probably not.  A sealed floor would be sufficient.  That being said, I spent my career in aviation and I have never walked into a maintenance hangar where you couldn't practically eat off of the floor.  Something about walking into a hangar with a bunch of shiny jets sitting on on equally shiny hangar floor that just made me smile...


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## boneyard51 (Feb 14, 2021)

7milesup said:


> Oh no.  You really didn't say that did you John?  Oh the humanity.  LOL
> 
> As a side note, I have a very nice truck that I do haul stuff in.
> 
> Edit:  The function of the shop has a huge impact on what should/could be done with the floor.  My brothers shop (which is huge) is utilized for working on his large farm equipment.  Does it make sense to do an epoxy floor in that?  Probably not.  A sealed floor would be sufficient.  That being said, I spent my career in aviation and I have never walked into a maintenance hangar where you couldn't practically eat off of the floor.  Something about walking into a hangar with a bunch of shiny jets sitting on on equally shiny hangar floor that just made me smile...


Neatness and cleanliness and organization are signs  of a good shop! Now mind you not proof! Lol  For some reason I skipped those genes! During my productive years I worked in a two man shop. My helper was a neat freak, I was just me! Appearances!  Salesmen or company representatives would come it the shop and go right to my helper and start talking. Lol. We were the “ odd couple” , for sure, but got along great working side by side for close to twenty years. 

I have been trying to change my spots, but not much luck! My neighbor, a neat freak,  is working on me.....with some success!



Bones


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