# Southbend 9a  Part# 1260 N1



## LucknowKen (Jan 21, 2016)

My South Bend 9A (CL944Y} arrived with an odd spindle gear guard. This part bolts on in the same place the regular spindle gear guards do. (I bought this lathe to make parts for a GL-100A lab lathe.)  After i had already paid for the machine the seller mentioned he bought it from a local high school. He also said he never ran it, (it's 3 phase), and the little 9A had sat exactly as he got it, in the same spot for more than 15 years. Hmmm, a 9A eh?
I think it could  be a nice candidate for restoration, but i just want to get it into production.  
It may be missing something, it doesn't actually cover the gears. Any info or a SB catalog picture would be a big help.


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## LucknowKen (Jan 23, 2016)

I would like to post some links in the Craigslist finds sticky but apparently:
*You need 3 posts to add links to your posts! This is used to prevent spam.*

Here is a capture of  a 9A (i believe) Metric, it may be close to what my lathe was shipped with.
This is not quite the same part, but i may be getting closer.
It would be nice to keep my 9A machine original, but i am willing to fabricate something if necessary.
I have many questions regarding my South Bend, but i have been able to find most answers on this forum. 
This spindle guard seems to be a difficult item to get a good picture of.
Because the lathe sat for so long i have yet to put power to it, for fear of damaging something.
Everything i have looked at on Ebay averages $100 for shipping. With the current Exchange rate,
it would be cheaper to buy another lathe then get a part for one shipped over the line.
Thanks in advance for any info on the spindle guard.
LK


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## aametalmaster (Jan 23, 2016)

That lathe in your recent post is a SB 10K prob 1976 or so. They had the fiberglass belt covers. I have exhausted looking at every pic I could find to even match something like yours. Yours would have shipped with 2 cast iron hoops over the spindle and maybe what you have now is an add on. Look up your sn on the end of the way so we can get a year made...Bob


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## aametalmaster (Jan 23, 2016)

The way to tell a 10K from a 9" is look at the thickness of the compound slide base. The 10K is 1/2" thick and a 9" is 1/4" thick. The 10K is a raised 9" and 99% of the parts interchange...Bob


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## LucknowKen (Jan 23, 2016)

Thanks for the information Bob. Thanks also for trying to locate a picture. I had no idea that the guard could be made of fiberglass.  The only cover guards that came with that (new to me) South Bend 9A is the one i have pictured. It is aluminum and seems to have a SB # stamped on it. I may be wrong though, i am new to machining except for what was considered basic machining in high school. That was quite awhile ago. It will take some practice to get me up to speed. 
The serial # is 44325NAR9. I would send away for the shipping file card if it could shed some light on the original configuration.
I am anxious to get this lathe chipping, but also very cautious for fear of doing damage.


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## aametalmaster (Jan 23, 2016)

44325N is 1958..Bob


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## martik777 (Jan 24, 2016)

You are not far from the US border. Find a  parcel receiving  service in the USA and pickup. Shipping is often free or very low within the US. 

I've seen pairs of  those cast iron hoop guards for approx $30USD on ebay


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## LucknowKen (Jan 24, 2016)

martik777 said:


> You are not far from the US border. Find a  parcel receiving  service in the USA and pickup. Shipping is often free or very low within the US.
> 
> I've seen pairs of  those cast iron hoop guards for approx $30USD on ebay



Thanks martik:  The screen capture in my second post that i thought was a 9A, is off a youtube vid from Vancouver technical.

Edit: Found this picture (and #s) of the motor guard and the spindle guard. 

:


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## martik777 (Jan 24, 2016)

Those guards are overkill IMO and make changing the belt position difficult. . The most important ones are the end gear cover and the 2 hoops covers on the spindle back gears. 

Regarding your concerns about damaging anything before powering up the lathe. The only concern I would have is that the spindle oil wicks may have dried up.  The only way to be sure of their condition is to take the spindle out and check them.  If the spindle turns freely by hand, fill up the oil gits and run it in neutral for 10 mins  or so and see if it gets hot. It should only get slightly warm.  Add oil everywhere, check the operation of the longitudinal , cross feeds and half nuts manually using various feed rates, then under power.  If there are no obvious problems, it's probably fine to run it as is but I would plan on eventually cleaning or rewicking the spindle, apron, and gearbox. In my case all the wicks were reusable after cleaning in solvent.


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