# Logan 200 - Figuring this thing out!



## Laminar (Feb 21, 2022)

Hey everyone,

Over the weekend I bought myself a pile of parts that is supposed to be a Logan 200 lathe. The guy I got it from bought it as a project, didn't know anything about it, ran out of motivation to do anything with it himself. So I bought a lathe and a bucket of accessories. I have no experience in machining, so I'm learning as I go.


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## Laminar (Feb 21, 2022)

I found it on Facebook marketplace and decided to check it out on Saturday. After taking a quick look, I decided to give it a shot and take it home with me. We were able to back my truck up to his retaining wall and load it up. Once I got home, I recruited a neighbor to help me get it out. The guy had put it on casters so we were able to roll it down a set of ATV ramps without much drama.


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## Doug Gray (Feb 21, 2022)

Hey Luminar
Enjoy the journey!



			http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2093/3353.pdf


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## Laminar (Feb 21, 2022)




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## Laminar (Feb 21, 2022)

I pulled everything out of the buckets and boxes. Here's what I see, I'm figuring out what things are from the Logan manual.



The ways look decent, not dinged up or damaged.








The carriage still has its felt wipers in place. The compound rest screw is bent, but it came with a spare.








Some minor surface rust on the pulleys, but I think it should clean up.















No leather belt, just a continuous rubber belt.








Came with a 3-jaw chuck installed:








Also included a 4-jaw chuck and a couple of face plates:






















Included a turret:








Tailstock is in decent shape. I'll need to clean out the taper. I don't see any accessories for it, so I'll probably look for a live center and maybe a chuck.















Has a rest. It's been broken and brazed back together, maybe not super well:















The crossfeed assembly is here, though the crossfeed nut is broken:






















Looks like another compound base, with the chip guard broken off:















Also broken: the apron. Looks like maybe it fell over and the apron took the brunt of it:






















The half nut broke, but it came with a spare:








It came with a spare apron, but it's smaller than the broken piece. I think the stamped part number is "LA-111," though I can't find anything on that part number.








The power feed gears are here, looks like I might be missing some original nuts:








I also have a bunch of spare gears, though I'm not sure if that's the whole set:








One of the idler gears on the reverse gear assembly has a missing tooth, but I have a spare assembly:








Spare rack and pinion gears:















Looking at the motor next.


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## mmcmdl (Feb 21, 2022)

Pics or it didn't happen !  

Welcome aboard . 

Edit ..............................typing at the same time , I'll revoke the above !


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## Laminar (Feb 21, 2022)

It came with a new 2HP 110V single phase motor. The guy said it ran, but was slow.
















It's definitely too big physically to fit the motor mount. It's missing the pegleg support, so everything is just wedged together in place.

I'm also worried that the extra power would absolutely shred the gears if anything were to lock up.

Just to see if I could get it running, I pulled it off the mount and dug into the wiring.






I found it was wired entirely wrong per the wiring diagram. But even with that fixed, it just buzzed when I gave it power. I kept digging and found one of the capacitor leads was disconnected. With that reattached, it spins! Though there does seem to be quite a bit of vibration.

I will probably see if I can just resell this motor and then go for something a bit more...correct. What's the current "easy button" for a variable speed refit? I've seen treadmill motor adaptations, and there are plenty of those available around here for free.

With a variable speed drive, would it make sense to eliminate the countershaft and just drive the spindle with just a single reduction from the motor?

I have 230V available in my garage (installed an extra outlet when I put in the electric heater). So I could conceivably do a 230V single phase source to a VFD driving a 3-phase motor, I assume that would end up being fairly pricey. What's best practice nowadays?


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## Laminar (Feb 21, 2022)

And as far as parts go, here's what I've found that I need so far:
- 5/16" chuck key
- Chuck wrench (not sure what to get here)
- Tool post wrench (0635)
- Tailstock wrench (Q23-03308)
- Apron (have replacement casting coming from eBay)
- Saddle lock nut (LA-174)
- Saddle lock screw (LA-175)
- Saddle washer (LA-198)
- Pedestal leg (easy enough to fabricate something sufficient)
- Cross feed nut (LA-173-1)
- Saddle rear gib (I don't think I have this) (LA-397)
- Compound base gib (LA-749)
- Drive box pin (LA-399) (operator side currently has undersized bolt in place)
-_ 10-32 nut and washer for stay bar
- 3/8-16x1 socket head cap screw x2 for apron
- 5/16-18x5/8 cap screw for compound rest base
- Groove pin 1/8x3/4 for compound base gib
- 1/4-20x1-3/4 cap screw x2 for carriage front gib
- 1/4-20x3/4 cap screw x2 for carriage rear gib_
- 3/16sq x 3/8 lg key (LA-298) for crossfeed screw handwheel
- 3/8" bore handwheel for the crossfeed (LA-299)
_- 3/8"-24 jam nut for the same (0531)
- 3/8-16 x 7/8" hex head cap screw to attach apron to lead screw bearing_

On top of this would be any bushings and bearings that may need replacement. If anyone can think of any other good additions, please let me know!


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## Laminar (Feb 21, 2022)

I spent a bit of time fooling around in the garage yesterday. I took a brass brush and some WD-40 to the chuck just to see if it would make much of a difference.

Before:





After:





That cleaned up nicely. I think with a bit more elbow grease it would be in great shape.

Any thoughts on maintaining the current lantern-style toolpost vs. converting to a quick change? I don't have anything for tooling so I have no sunk cost in either method yet.


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## Aukai (Feb 21, 2022)

Good luck with the project...


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## Gaffer (Feb 21, 2022)

I don't know anything about your lathe, but I recommend getting it assembled to ensure it's all there and working before you spend money on motors and tool posts. That's quite a project. Have fun and best of luck!


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## Laminar (Feb 21, 2022)

Gaffer said:


> I don't know anything about your lathe, but I recommend getting it assembled to ensure it's all there and working before you spend money on motors and tool posts. That's quite a project. Have fun and best of luck!



Gaffer,

Thank you for the kind words. I certainly don't want to get too far ahead of myself. I figure a good order of operations is this:
- Purchase the minimum of parts required to complete the mechanical assembly (apron, gibs, misc hardware)
- Clean, lube, and assemble everything
- Check static state and measure to make sure all is (or can be made) straight and true
- Add motor
- Check dynamic state and ensure all functions as it should
- Go hog wild with the goodies


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## Nogoingback (Feb 21, 2022)

First off, welcome to the forum!  That lathe looks like a good project.

If you haven't already, it would be a good idea to look at craisgslist for parts like the post that supports the motor/drive box
or the broken hand wheel.

You also need a parts book: they can be ordered from Logan along with the operator's manual or can be downloaded
from this site if you are a *silver* or better supporting member.  You can look up the age of your lathe by looking at the FAQ here:
lathe.com.   You'll need the s/n when finding parts.

I looked up the apron casting and my parts book lists LA-350 as the correct part number.

As far as the motor goes, these machines came with 1/2 hp motors from the factory. Some folks fit 3/4 hp motors, but anything larger is a waste.
My machine has a 3 phase, 1/2 hp motor with a vfd and I'm happy with it though were I to do it over I'd probably fit a 3/4 since it will bog
down when drilling large holes.

When you evaluate the machine, check the condition of the spindle bearings.  The large one at the chuck side of the headstock is sole source available from Logan: it's not cheap, but at lest they have them.  The fact that someone fitted a rubber drive belt suggests they may have been replaced  in the past.  Logan has a surprising number of parts available for these machines.  Folks complain about the prices, but where else can you get spare parts for a 75 year old lathe?

Cheers!


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## Laminar (Feb 21, 2022)

I'm wondering if anyone recognizes what this compound base is originally from:






I suspect it was purchased to replace the broken piece I have, but it is not in the original manual or drawings. I'm not sure what the long slot is for. The taper doesn't fit the saddle taper, though the gib is not in place. I'll have to double check and see if there's a part number stamped into it.


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## wa5cab (Feb 21, 2022)

I don't think that I would eliminate the counter shaft.  The original spindle RPM range is something like 179 to 1450 RPM.  Which is more than the satisfactory speed range of a variable speed AC or DC motor.  Plus Back Gear of course.  At the lower RPM, the motor would over heat.

The original recommended motor HP was probably between 1/3 and 1/2 or 3/4 HP.  2 HP would as you mentioned be much to much.


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## wa5cab (Feb 21, 2022)

Once you get the part # of the loose dovetail & etc, you might try offering it as an even swap for the part that you actually need.  That might actually require GOLD donor status, though.  Selling it outright would.  I am not sure about a swap.


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## Laminar (Feb 21, 2022)

No part number, it just has a "12" cast into the bottom. After spending some time in the manual today, I'm recognizing more of the bits and pieces. I found the gib and slipped it in under the base and the fit is nice and snug. I'll need to get a pin to retain the gib onto the base, but it seems like it should fit nicely.


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## T. J. (Feb 21, 2022)

Laminar said:


> I'm wondering if anyone recognizes what this compound base is originally from:


The longer cross slide with the slot in it is for use with a taper attachment. It replaces both the standard cross slide and the chip guard. The compound assemblies should be interchangeable between the two types of cross slides


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## Laminar (Feb 22, 2022)

T. J. said:


> The longer cross slide with the slot in it is for use with a taper attachment. It replaces both the standard cross slide and the chip guard. The compound assemblies should be interchangeable between the two types of cross slides



Ooo, starting to make some connections now.

Here we are with the gib in place, nice tight fit.





And this would be the taper attachment:















The taper attachment is labeled "J & R TOOL and MFG CO. DES MOINES IA." I did a little bit of poking around and the only reference I could find to J&R is a lawsuit against them for patent infringement in 1967.

And then I'm guessing that this piece bolts through the chip guard slot and saddles the taper guide:










So maybe I can make my own MT2 taper tailstock attachments 

I got the front gib installed on the carriage, but the two screws that hold it in place are bent, so the gib doesn't tighten up evenly. I'll have to replace those screws. The heads are also a bit chewed up, likely as a result of trying to remove them after they bent.






The rear gib is missing entirely, so I'll need to either find one or maybe have something made.

A little more cleanup on my 3-jaw shows that it's from Poland.


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## Laminar (Feb 22, 2022)

Nogoingback said:


> You also need a parts book: they can be ordered from Logan along with the operator's manual or can be downloaded
> from this site if you are a *silver* or better supporting member.  You can look up the age of your lathe by looking at the FAQ here:
> lathe.com.   You'll need the s/n when finding parts.


Thank you for this link! My serial number puts this at 1946.


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## Laminar (Feb 22, 2022)

wa5cab said:


> I don't think that I would eliminate the counter shaft.  The original spindle RPM range is something like 179 to 1450 RPM.  Which is more than the satisfactory speed range of a variable speed AC or DC motor.  Plus Back Gear of course.  At the lower RPM, the motor would over heat.
> 
> The original recommended motor HP was probably between 1/3 and 1/2 or 3/4 HP.  2 HP would as you mentioned be much to much.


wa5cab,
Thanks for your input. I'm sure there's a better solution than the 2HP motor that came with, I've spotted several treadmills locally for free. I may also reach out to a couple of vendors I work with. I know a three phase inverter-rated motor with even just 100:1 turndown can happily run at 1/100th of its base speed. So a 1750rpm motor can run at 17.5rpm all day. 1000:1 motors are also available that can turn 1.75rpm without overheating. Things can get pricey quickly, though.


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## Aukai (Feb 22, 2022)

Your making some good progress


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## Winegrower (Feb 22, 2022)

It’s amazing how many spare parts came in your collection.   Clearly you know what you’re doing, so best wishes for a terrific resurrection!


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## Laminar (Feb 22, 2022)

T. J. said:


> The longer cross slide with the slot in it is for use with a taper attachment. It replaces both the standard cross slide and the chip guard. The compound assemblies should be interchangeable between the two types of cross slides


Here it is! Very cool stuff.


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## MikeInOr (Feb 22, 2022)

Laminar said:


> Any thoughts on maintaining the current lantern-style toolpost vs. converting to a quick change? I don't have anything for tooling so I have no sunk cost in either method yet.



I used the lantern style tool-post on my Craftsman 12" lathe for near 30 years and it always got the job done.  When I upgraded to my South Bend 13" lathe the first thing I did was purchased a quick change tool post... and I will NEVER go back.  Once you have everything running smooth and are happy with the lathe I would recommend the quick change.  I think the lantern tool post will do everything you need while getting the lathe running and tuned though.

Taper attachment??? I am jealous!!!!


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## Laminar (Feb 22, 2022)

Laminar said:


> wa5cab,
> Thanks for your input. I'm sure there's a better solution than the 2HP motor that came with, I've spotted several treadmills locally for free. I may also reach out to a couple of vendors I work with. I know a three phase inverter-rated motor with even just 100:1 turndown can happily run at 1/100th of its base speed. So a 1750rpm motor can run at 17.5rpm all day. 1000:1 motors are also available that can turn 1.75rpm without overheating. Things can get pricey quickly, though.


I ran some numbers on this for fun. I built a little Excel sheet based on the reductions published in the manual. I can plug in a motor input speed, select my reductions, and it will spit out the resulting spindle speed.



Here it is with motor belt position 1, spindle belt position 3, and the back gear disabled, the result is 179 rpm just like the table shows:



Now if I eliminate the countershaft reduction by changing that value to 1:1, I can see how slow a variable speed motor would have to run to achieve the factory minimum speed of 30rpm. 


So a motor speed of 340 rpm directly into the spindle using the reduction of the #3 spindle pulley position plus the back gear gets me 30rpm at the spindle output. That's roughly 20% of a 1750rpm rated speed motor, or 12Hz on a 60Hz motor. That's only a 5:1 turndown and very liveable for basically any inverter-rated AC motor.

But what about torque? The advantage of the big primary reduction is an increase in torque at the spindle. The specified 1/2HP motor, after all of the reduction, sees about a 58x increase in torque. If you eliminate the primary reduction, you only see an 11x increase in torque. So if you tried to drive the machine with a 0.5HP motor, you'd end up with way less torque at the chuck given the same spindle speed.

Upping to a 2.5HP motor would give you (essentially) the same torque at the chuck as the 0.5HP motor through the primary reduction.

But if you're tied to just the #3 spindle pulley position, then spinning at the rated motor speed of 1750rpm only gives you a max of 936rpm, far less than the factory max of 1450. But it's possible to run higher than the nameplate speed, and running that motor at 2700rpm would achieve the factory 1450rpm spindle speed.

Here's a motor that looks pretty decent:


			https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/motors/ac_motors/general_purpose_and_inverter_rated/mtrp-002-3bd18
		


It's 2HP and will run from 176 to 2700rpm.

This is all just a thought exercise until I get a little further into the mechanicals, but it was fun nonetheless.


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## T. J. (Feb 22, 2022)

It looks like you’ll have a very well equipped machine once you get it cleaned up. I’m jealous of your taper attachment


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## Laminar (Feb 23, 2022)

Grabbed some hardware over lunch yesterday and tinkered for a couple of minutes last night. Replaced the bent front carriage gib screws with some allen head bolts, and got the "0964" 1/8" split pin to retain the compound base gib.







Here's how we sit right now:





Part LA-298 is the Woodruff key between the crossfeed screw and its handwheel. The Logan parts catalog says it's 3/16" x 3/8" long. That's not right! Even a 1/8" square key is too wide. A 5/16" to 7/16" shaft uses a 3/32" key as standard, which seems about right by my measurements. I'll need to find a 3/32" key somewhere and give it a shot.

I still need to find some 10W oil and some way grease.

I moved the LA-345 plunger out of the cone pulley assembly and engaged the back gear, that all seemed to work. The manual mentions that the plunger should be retained outward by a pawl that must be pressed to release it. I don't seem to have that function, so I'll have to dig a little deeper.

With the back gears disengaged and the plunger engaged, there is quite a bit of slop in the plunger, enough that I end up with noticeable backlash between the cone pulley assembly and the bull gear. Still more poking around to do!


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## Nogoingback (Feb 23, 2022)

Mobil makes a product called Vactra #2 way oil that is very suitable for your lathe.  It's available in gallon jugs.

There should be a pawl and a spring set into the slot on the bottom of the back gear plunger.  If yours are missing,
Logan sells them.  There is an adjustment procedure for setting up the back gears.  Here's the link:  http://lathe.com/ll-group-archive/logan_lathe_back_gears.html.  It's a fiddly procedure, but it works. I used a screwdriver to roll the gears when I did mine.

Honestly, a 3/4 hp 3 phase motor with a vfd will do everything you need with this lathe.  More power will just make the belts slip and these machines are happiest if you don't over do it on DOC anyway.
The speeds available would be suitable for anything you'll want to do.  Redesigning the drive system would be a lot of work with pretty much nothing in return.   Notice when the belt cover is raised, tension from the countershaft belts is removed which makes most belt changes
a very quick and easy procedure, and even changing the motor belt is quick.


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## Laminar (Feb 24, 2022)

Nogoingback said:


> Mobil makes a product called Vactra #2 way oil that is very suitable for your lathe.  It's available in gallon jugs.


I just found a vendor selling Vactra #2 and the Velocite spindle oil and bought some of each!



Nogoingback said:


> There should be a pawl and a spring set into the slot on the bottom of the back gear plunger.  If yours are missing,
> Logan sells them.  There is an adjustment procedure for setting up the back gears.  Here's the link:  http://lathe.com/ll-group-archive/logan_lathe_back_gears.html.  It's a fiddly procedure, but it works. I used a screwdriver to roll the gears when I did mine.


I'll check that out, thank you.



Nogoingback said:


> Honestly, a 3/4 hp 3 phase motor with a vfd will do everything you need with this lathe.  More power will just make the belts slip.
> The speeds available would be suitable for anything you'll want to do.  Redesigning the drive system would be a lot of work with pretty much nothing in return.   Notice when the belt cover is raised, tension from the countershaft belts is removed which makes most belt changes
> a very quick and easy procedure, and even changing the motor belt is quick.


I think keeping things simple and close to original really seems to be the way to go here.


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## Laminar (Feb 24, 2022)

Continued my puttering around in the garage a little last night. Got my saddle lock from Logan.







Also started figuring out what to do for a motor support pedestal. The threads for the pedestal support are a fine thread 5/8-18, which is just odd enough that the local home improvement stores don't carry those bolts, though I was able to find a 5/8-18 set screw, which got me just enough threads that I can work with it. If not, it looks like I could swing by my local Fastenal and pick some up.

Man, if only I had a lathe so that I could thread my....oh right.


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## Laminar (Feb 25, 2022)

I'm trying to figure out what size motor pulleys I should have to work with the existing countershaft pulley. I measured the countershaft's flats at roughly 8-5/8" and 9-3/4". I can back-calculate the primary reduction using the RPM table in the manual so I know each ratio, and from there I can calculate what I think the motor pulleys should be. I'm seeing roughly 1.65" and 4.35" for the motor pulley sizes to achieve the reduction from the manual. Does that sound right? I assume getting those motor pulley ratios right in comparison with the countershaft pulley step sizes helps a single belt work for both sizes.


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## Nogoingback (Feb 27, 2022)

Do you not have a motor pulley?  If I remember correctly, Logan had 2 different pulleys during Model 200 production.
I asked Scott Logan about it and he didn!t know what the difference was or when they made the change.  He sells
a LA349B pulley which is what I bought.  When I flip the belt on mine, which I rarely have to do I have to adjust
the belt a bit.  I suspect any Model 200 pulley would work fine so you might just check eBay and see if one is available.
Sorry, but with the pulley on the machine I don,t have a good way to accurately measure mine.


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## Laminar (Feb 28, 2022)

The 2HP motor came with a pulley that had been badly welded to some kind of hub, so I don't have the factory 2-step pulley.

This post claims the pulley diameters are 2.31 and 4.28.


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## Laminar (Feb 28, 2022)

Had some time over the weekend to dig in a bit more and clean things up. Looks like the ways are a bit beat up near the chuck.



I can see that I’m missing the pawl to lock in the back gears. That should be easy enough to make myself.




I made up a quick peg leg to support the motor bracket so it’s not hanging out in space.




And I went ahead and gave everything a good coat of Light Machine Gray paint.










My new felt wipers and way lube should arrive today, and once my apron arrives I should be able to assemble and test everything.


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## Gaffer (Feb 28, 2022)

It's looking great!


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## Laminar (Mar 1, 2022)

Yesterday I decided to swing by Fleet Farm to pick up a pulley and v-belt for the motor I'd eventually get. On my way out I swung through the clearance section for fun and what did I find? A 1HP single phase motor for 50% off!

So last night I proceeded with reassembly.

I picked up a pack of 100 3/32" Woodruff keys for the cross feed wheel. It ended up being a bit tall, so I had to grind it down a bit, but it fit.






My cross feed wheel was broken, but I found a 4" wheel with the right bore from an Atlas. Hopefully the extra inch in diameter doesn't cause it to interfere with the apron once I get that installed.






The motor fits really nicely on the bracket.






The 40" belt and a 4-step pulley look like they'll work great. I just need to get it wired up and I can test!


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## Laminar (Mar 1, 2022)

A couple of items to note. The screw that attaches the compound rest base to the cross feed nut was broken. I (poorly) ground down an allen head bolt to replace it. Making a better screw might be a nice first project.

The compound rest action is incredibly stiff. I backed off all of the gib set screws but it still takes a lot of effort to get it to slide at all. I may have to disassemble and make sure the taper is clean and that the lead screw and compound rest nut are turning freely.


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## Janderso (Mar 1, 2022)

MikeInOr said:


> I used the lantern style tool-post on my Craftsman 12" lathe for near 30 years and it always got the job done.  When I upgraded to my South Bend 13" lathe the first thing I did was purchased a quick change tool post... and I will NEVER go back.  Once you have everything running smooth and are happy with the lathe I would recommend the quick change.  I think the lantern tool post will do everything you need while getting the lathe running and tuned though.
> 
> Taper attachment??? I am jealous!!!!


I cut my teeth on a SB 13 back in high school. I then bought an early 40’s 13.
Lost it in the fire though.
Please share a pic of your 13. Here is/was mine.


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## MikeInOr (Mar 1, 2022)

Janderso said:


> I cut my teeth on a SB 13 back in high school. I then bought an early 40’s 13.
> Lost it in the fire though.
> Please share a pic of your 13. Here is/was mine.



This is the best pic I have handy of my South Bend 13.   The next time I go out to the shop I will try to remember to take some more pictures.






I believe it is a mid 70's SB13. For me the South Bend 13 has been the perfect lathe.  It has been up to all tasks that I have asked for it.  My biggest problem with it is I have not been able to find a steady rest for it (At least a steady rest that costs less than what I paid for the lathe).

P.S. I bought this South Bend 13 from the technology department of a high school.  I had to drive 4 hours to pick it up and it was located less than 5 minutes from the house I grew up in (but I was in a different school district).  It does not seem too abused for a high school lathe.


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## Janderso (Mar 2, 2022)

Laminar said:


> I pulled everything out of the buckets and boxes. Here's what I see, I'm figuring out what things are from the Logan manual.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks like a great project!!!
Sorry for the duplicate pics.


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## Laminar (Mar 3, 2022)

More progress.

I made up a latch to keep the drive belt door closed.





Then I went ahead and got the motor all wired up.





And she spins! The four step pulley actually ends up being pretty deep and interferes with the belt guard. I may just get a couple of single pulleys of the right size and then swap to the size I need when I need it. I got the indicator set up on the carriage to start looking at alignment.





I need to move the switch box over just a bit as it actually interferes with opening the cover (oops). I should probably pull it off the casters and finalize its actual location on the floor. It's kind of too bad, as I'm tall so I like the height it's at now. My apron should show up today so I can finish putting all of those goodies together.


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## Laminar (Mar 4, 2022)

Two boxes showed up yesterday. Another forum member was in need of an LA-111 apron and had accidentally bought an LA-350. What luck! We both threw our wrong aprons into a box and shipped them to each other. I pulled it out and cleaned it up then threw on a few coats of paint.






My goodie box from LittleMachineShop came in with some simple tooling - a few 1/4" tools, some blanks, some center drills, some boring bars, an 8mm chuck key, and a tailstock chuck and taper adapter.






Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to finish assembling the apron and get this thing set up for real!

One thing I'm not clear on is installation and removal of the chucks. The manual details how to engage the back gears to prevent rotation, but I'm not sure what I need as far as a chuck wrench or anything else goes. I assume it would depend on my specific chuck. Any thoughts?


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## Laminar (Mar 4, 2022)

One other issue is the pawl on the back gear actuator. It appears that the pin that holds the pawl in place presses in from one side but does not go through. My pin is in place but the pawl is missing. What's my best option for removing that pin? Just drill it out?


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## T. J. (Mar 4, 2022)

Laminar said:


> One thing I'm not clear on is installation and removal of the chucks. The manual details how to engage the back gears to prevent rotation, but I'm not sure what I need as far as a chuck wrench or anything else goes. I assume it would depend on my specific chuck. Any thoughts?



I lock the back gears and use a crescent wrench on one of the chuck jaws. In normal use, it shouldn’t require more than steady firm pressure or a few LIGHT taps to dislodge the chuck.

If your chuck has been on the spindle a while, it may be really stuck. Just take care trying to get it off with the back gears locked, otherwise you could break a gear tooth.


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## tq60 (Mar 4, 2022)

The back gear control on these is a weak link as it can slide out by itself.

Our Logan has missing teeth due to this and do not want to mess with it as we do not use it at this time, the 14.5 SB for most things and the LS 16x54 for the big stuff.

We do use the back gear lock with the biggest crescent wrench on one of the jaws to loosen our chuck.

But we take up all slack, apply pressure to wrench then do a thumping action with elbow to nudge the wrench and it loosens up 

This is on ours that we spun on by hand and did the 1/4 turn seating turn.

If you never have had the chuck off do NOT use back gear.

Put in slowest belted direct drive then use something like a c clamp someplace to stop rotation.

Again, biggest crescent wrench on a jaw of chuck at a comfortable angle where you can apply pressure then apply additional force without letting up.

A constant force with a bump usually does the job.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


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## Laminar (Mar 5, 2022)

I made chips!






Is there a list of the actual bushing dimensions? I figure I should be able to make my own, I just need to know what they're supposed to be. The carriage wheel has a bit of slop to it as do the power feed gears.


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## Nogoingback (Mar 5, 2022)

Laminar said:


> One other issue is the pawl on the back gear actuator. It appears that the pin that holds the pawl in place presses in from one side but does not go through. My pin is in place but the pawl is missing. What's my best option for removing that pin? Just drill it out?


That might be your only option.  I looked at mine and the shifter rack is drilled all the way through.



Laminar said:


> I made chips!
> 
> 
> Is there a list of the actual bushing dimensions? I figure I should be able to make my own, I just need to know what they're supposed to be. The carriage wheel has a bit of slop to it as do the power feed gears.



Not sure which bushings your referring to, but most bushing are standard sizes and can be ordered from McMaster-Carr.


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## Shiseiji (Mar 9, 2022)

Laminar said:


> I'm wondering if anyone recognizes what this compound base is originally from:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This is a taper attachment cross-slide. Too bad you didn't get the rest of it. 

Ron


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## Shiseiji (Mar 9, 2022)

Sorry about the second answer on the taper cross slide, should have read all the way through first.  

This technique was posted for removing a chuck with success and it's KISS. Put a bar across the chuck jaws and hang a weight on it. Try to work some Kroil or PB Blaster into the threads. Give it time and it will loosen the chuck. Use "something" to protect the ways as when it gives it will probably be sudden. Just an "opinion" on tooling. As other's have said, these things were built for a low HP, rpm, and HHS tooling. I suggest you look into a HHS diamond/tangential tool holder.  The cost, IMHO pays off very quickly in $ because you don't have to buy inserts and time because the grind is really KISS. If you get them from Gary at eccentric engineering, I suggest you also grit your teeth and buy a piece of Crobalt.  Again, no time to grind and it lasts a really long time. Don't need a green wheel. Kills me it's made here in the US and I can't find a retail outlet. It isn't great for threading, for that I use HHS or a HHS insert tool from AR Wagner via Little Machine Shop. But the inserts are expensive if broken. It was a learning curve, but sometimes just have to pay for the lessons. I've gotten a hold of an Armstrong threading tool, learned others have ground them down to fit the AXA holders. Put off as I pack for a move.  Good luck! Looks like it's come along really well!


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## Laminar (Mar 10, 2022)

Thanks for the response, Shiseiji. I've been playing around with HSS tooling on some aluminum bar. I intended to get back on my car project, as it's sure to bring up the need for a few bits and bobs I can use for lathe practice. Now to source some cheap UV-safe Delrin...


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## Laminar (May 23, 2022)

Got out the 4-jaw this weekend. I'd previously made flanges like this with a hole saw, but going through 3/8" steel means the hole saw only lasts for about one hole. I started doing this one the same way but found the hole saw was so worn it was more of an abrasive cutter and very little progress was being made. I drilled the center out with a 5/8" bit on the drill press, and then used a dial indicator to get it chucked up properly, which took a little doing considering the odd shape.












Now I just have to make two more of these!


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## tq60 (May 23, 2022)

One hole in 3/8 steel?

Speed is too fast.

Hole saws hate speed.

Put the lathe in as slow as it can go and a bit of oil.


Peck drill so the saw can COOL.

We last did 3 inch through 1/8 plate, 3.5 inch through 1.25 plate.

About 60 rpm.

Saw was cool to touch after, the slug not so much.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


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## Laminar (May 23, 2022)

tq60 said:


> One hole in 3/8 steel?
> 
> Speed is too fast.
> 
> ...


I've historically done it in my drill press at the slowest speed the thing will go, which probably isn't slow enough. I also probably buy cheap hole saws. It went pretty smoothly with the boring bar.


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## Laminar (May 27, 2022)

Friend has a '68 Chevelle with a one-year-only steering column. The bearing is out and replacements are NLA. We managed to find a 1" ID / 1.5" OD bearing, I just needed to enlarge the housing by about 0.015" to get it to fit.


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## Laminar (Jul 26, 2022)

tq60 said:


> One hole in 3/8 steel?
> 
> Speed is too fast.
> 
> ...



Brilliant! I made another flange today and put the hole saw in the tailstock chuck. Put the countershaft belt on the slowest pulley combo and engaged the back gears. The hole saw was actually making chips! Running them on my drill press I'd only ever seen them make dust, obviously I was running it too fast, even if it was the slowest setting on the drill press.






But let's back up a second...I decided to jump on a QCTP. The 1/4" HSS bits were fine but not...ideal. The AXA kit from LittleMachineShop comes with a square chunk of metal to be turned down to fit the t-slot. It took some doing, but I got there. 











I set up a coupe of tools and dialed them in.











Then I went to set up a boring bar...disaster! The boring bar holder has a 3/4" diameter and includes a spacer to also accept 5/8" bars...but all of the boring bars I bought are 1/2". If only there was a tool used to create circular pieces of metal in whatever size and shape I wanted...

I grabbed some 1" aluminum stock and center drilled with a 31/64" bit. Then I turned the OD down to 0.745", same as the spacer that came with it. I slotted the spacer with a hacksaw, and voilà:











So now onto the turbo flange. I cut the shape out of a chunk of 3/8" plate and traced out where the hole needed to be. I center punched the middle and then chucked it up in the 4-jaw. This one went way quicker than the last one.






I centered-drilled the plate first, then switched to a 1-3/8" hole saw. Per @tq60's recommendation, I dropped the lathe to its slowest speed, used some oil, and took it slow.






It worked like a charm and took far less time than it did when I was on the drill press running a much higher rotational speed.

From there I dropped in the boring bar and took it to 1.450", which matches the turbo inlet diameter.






I could then clamp the flange to the turbo and center punch each hole, which then got drilled 11/32" and tapped M10x1.25.






That was the easy part, now I have to try and fit these things in the car...


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## Shiseiji (Jul 26, 2022)

tq60 said:


> Peck drill so the saw can COOL.


Too funny, I'd never been taught this until an IG friend showed it and it was a "blinding flash of the obvious." Now twice in 2 days.


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## Shiseiji (Jul 26, 2022)

Laminar said:


> Then I went to set up a boring bar...disaster! The boring bar holder has a 3/4" diameter and includes a spacer to also accept 5/8" bars...but all of the boring bars I bought are 1/2". If only there was a tool used to create circular pieces of metal in whatever size and shape I wanted...
> 
> I grabbed some 1" aluminum stock and center drilled with a 31/64" bit. Then I turned the OD down to 0.745", same as the spacer that came with it. I slotted the spacer with a hacksaw, and voilà:


I've come to think it's more rare to not need to make a tool than it is to need to "adapt and overcome." 

Ron


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## tq60 (Jul 26, 2022)

Hole saws are wonderful tools.

Most folks do not use them correctly and ruin them fast then blame the tool.

They hate speed and or heat.

Cut slow with oil and good pressure and they do well.

We were drilling 3/4 through 1/2 plate at a remote site, mounting solar panel pipe to container.

Did well and was demonstrating process to another person.

Broke all but one tooth in very short time...

Lesson not learned by others....learned by me too...do it myself....

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


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## Laminar (Jul 28, 2022)

How does a lathe keep coming in handy...

Went to lop the flange off of a turbo with my portable bandsaw and the blade kept popping off. Found the upper pulley totally loose, the bushing was knackered.











I was at the local hardware store getting a key cut, so I grabbed a couple of bushings to get the right ID and OD and got to work.





















It's a Harbor Freight saw so the design is very poor, but it's lasted me probably 10 years at this point, so I don't mind putting a couple of bucks of bushings into it.


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## wa5cab (Aug 5, 2022)

I would not dispense with the three-speed countershaft.  The motor will tend to overheat when run continuously at low RPM.

The correct motor size is probably a 1/2 HP.  It will not run any better with a much larger motor and if you ever do have a crash, the damage done will probably be significantly worse.


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## Laminar (Aug 16, 2022)

Continuing on with the turbo adaptation, I'm going to weld some v-band flanges onto pipe elbows. It sure would be handy to have the elbow perfectly machined to accept the v-band. It's a short, tight radius elbow so I can't grip it in the 3 or 4-jaw. Would something like this faceplate setup work?












Maybe even tack weld the elbow to the angle to keep it from slipping?


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## Laminar (Aug 17, 2022)

Well I found a setup that kind of works. I chucked up the elbow on the inside and then cut it on the chuck end. I had to use the parting tool, as that was the only thing long enough and thin enough to squeeze in there. Not pretty, but it worked.


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## Laminar (Aug 23, 2022)

Continuing on from the last post, I went ahead and put a lip on both sides of the pipe, and I put a step in the head flange to receive the pipe. This should definitely help with mockup and alignment.




















Then I flipped the flanges around and faced the backside.





I didn't quite have enough swing to get the whole flange the way I had it chucked up and the tool set up, but it's out near the edge so I can clean that up with the belt sander without issue.


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