# A VFD write up for a Webb Mill



## Pielut (Aug 6, 2012)

So here is my first attempt with VFD’s. I spent countless hours on this site and several others schooling myself on the process. VFD’s can be intimidating, but after some education they are quite simple. The following is my VFD build from start to finish.
VFD choice: I spent much time deliberating between brands and prices. I noticed that the TECO VFD was the most popular choice and there was more detailed information about setting these up. The price was right and it met my requirements. I purchased mine from Dealers Electric http://dealerselectric.com/item.asp?PID=4709



I elected to not mount the VFD inside a protective box. Instead, I used a piece of aluminum plate that mounts to the wall and the VFD is mounted to the aluminum.



Next up was finding a source for power. I already have single phase 220 for a welder and air compressor, so that was the ticket. I bent up some conduit and placed a 70 amp load center near the VFD.
Here is the 70 amp load center from Home Depot
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...d=-1&keyword=70+amp+load+center&storeId=10051

On the wall and conduit attached


I used 10 gauge wire to feed the two pole 30 amp breaker.  

Then I used 14 gauge wire from the output side of the 30 amp breaker to the input of the VFD. I used flexible conduit to cover the 14 gauge to the VFD.


Next up was to figure out the wiring to the Taiwan made 2HP motor. Luckily the data tag on the motor was still legible, so I was able to attach all the wires easily. These 3 phase motors are labeled “X,Y,Z”

Old switch


Switch removed and wires tied




At this point I flipped the circuit breaker and the VFD powered up. After some initial programming on the VFD the Webb sprung to life. It is possible to use the VFD for all of the start/stop and forward/reverse functions, but operating the VFD on a wall behind the mill would be a pain. After some more searching I figured out a clean way to have a remote set up for my controls. 
I didn’t want to spend a lot on the remote set up, and so after many hours searching I found a weatherproof one gang electrical box along with a blank cover. 

Found at Home Depot.



I wanted a switch that would hold up to years of use, so I spent a little more on this switch.
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...a-_Non-Illuminated/Non-Illuminated/GCX3370-22

I found a nice 10K pot at Frys Electronics along with a knob
Black knob for pot…Frys item 5588360
http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&query_string=5588360&cat=0

In order to make the pot and 3 position switch work you will need some shielded cable.
Also from Fry’s Electronics..item 3550844
This is a 9 conductor 24 gauge shielded cable 25 feet long.
http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&query_string=3550844&cat=0

Pics of front and back side of switch cover plate












The 3 pot wires attach to location 9,10,11 on the control signal terminal.
The 3 position switch uses a total of 4 wires. Two wires share spot 3 on the terminal. The other two wires attach to spot 4 and 5 respectively. 






After some testing and changes to the settings in the VFD, the remote system came to life. 
At this point I decided to make a clean and functional way to mount the switch box. I could have mounted it to the side of the mill, but that would be too easy. I knew I wanted to have the switch box at a location and height that would be user friendly.  I decided on a flexable arm that would pivot at two places to allow for maximum maneuverability. I used some scrap 1x2 steel along with some angle iron, round tubing , ½” all thread and some aluminum knobs I found.

I really like the end product.


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## Kennyd (Aug 7, 2012)

Great job!


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## righto88 (Aug 7, 2012)

What great post. I like the links you provided. Good job you did!


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## HMF (Aug 7, 2012)

Great post  Pielut! :man:


Should be an Article!


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## thinair (Sep 15, 2013)

Peilut.
I was fortunate to come across your posting while searching for answers on how to set up my Teco VFD (JNEV-202-H1) on a Nichols mill. THANK YOU so much for taking the time to provide detailed pictures, parts/components recommendations, and descriptions. I purchased the 10z POT and actually ordered the exact same 3-position switch. Thanks for providing weblinks to the stores!

You are truly a lifesaver because I would have had about no chance on wiring and getting my mill set up with the VFD.

Yesterday I just finished up the wiring and starting mitering on the mill using the VFD controls. AWESOME! The switch and pot work perfectly.

I followed your approach and was able to get my mill set up and running BECAUSE OF YOU! Even though it took some time/effort I set up an account on Hobby Machinist simply to be able to say "thank you" for your efforts.

Here is a video of the control box powering my mill. THANK YOU!

<span class="Apple-style-span">[video=youtube;KIgprfZsNIE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&amp;v=KIgprfZsNIE[/video]


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## Pielut (Sep 15, 2013)

Thinair, great job on the install! Glad I was able to help, this is the exact reason I posted this thread. At the time I was learning about VFD's there didn't seem to be a complete single source of information. A lot of good information was spread out on different threads and websites. 

Also note that you can reduce the default deceleration time (5 seconds) to very close to 0...which means the mill will stop very quickly. You may have done that already, I couldn't tell from video.


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## Tony Wells (Sep 15, 2013)

Nice job, and well presented. Out of curiosity, on the left side of your mill, the red tag shows the manufacturer. You mind telling me who made it for Webb? It looks an awful lot like mine. Mine is not a Webb though.


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## Pielut (Sep 15, 2013)

It reads "She Hong Industrial Co., Ltd" followed by "Taiwan Republic of China"


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## Tony Wells (Sep 15, 2013)

Thank you. My mill came from the same factory. It's badged "Star-Tex, and I believe was sold through a machinery dealer in Dallas. Mine is a 1983 vintage. Do you have the manual for yours? I do for mine and would be happy to scan it if you need a copy. I'm sure it would be the same provided the model year was close to mine.


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## thinair (Sep 18, 2013)

Pielut said:


> Thinair, great job on the install! Glad I was able to help, this is the exact reason I posted this thread. At the time I was learning about VFD's there didn't seem to be a complete single source of information. A lot of good information was spread out on different threads and websites.
> 
> Also note that you can reduce the default deceleration time (5 seconds) to very close to 0...which means the mill will stop very quickly. You may have done that already, I couldn't tell from video.



Thanks for the quick reply! I haven't reduced the deceleration time (it is still set at the factory default 5.0) 
1) In order to change the time it seems like it would be F002 (what do you have yours set at?)
2) Is the benefit of reducing the deceleration time the ability to stop the saw/endmill/etc ASAP just in case it starts to chatter? 


Thanks again and keep up the awesome work man!


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## UncleRuss (Sep 18, 2013)

Nice job---except.

The enclosure or at least conduit box for the drive you choose not to use, is to enclose the wads of spaghetti you have hanging out just begging for your grandchild to grab on to and electrocute themselves.  These drives are not meant for open chassis application.

Come on guys, get serious about a serious subject.        :angry:

Put them in a enclosure or buy a conduit box for the drive.

Forgot:  My remarks are only important to electricians, electrical inspectors, and insurance adjustors.


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