# PM 1236 Oil Change



## ronsack (Sep 7, 2014)

1st Oil change on a new PM 1236 after about 10 hrs of use.
Guys take off the top cover and really clean the bottom of the gear box mine was full of metal, just draining doesn't get it out.


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## zmotorsports (Sep 7, 2014)

Good tip.  I did the same thing when I replaced the oil in the headstock of my PM1340GT but it was spotless inside.  I wiped it down and then sprayed some brake cleaner on a paper towel and wiped the gearbox out as well.

Thanks for posting up some pictures and reminding or suggesting this to everyone.

Mike.


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## tino_ale (Sep 14, 2014)

Hey ronsack

Just got a PM1236 too, haven't even run it yet, but I've opened the gearbox and swiped a magnet in the oil, it came out with a good amount of metal particles/gunk on it. The gearbox itself looks very crude also.

I'm not sure how so much junk get in the gear box of those machines at the factory but at least we know it's a consistent "feature" of the PM1236 and to be expected.

I wonder if I'm not going to change the oil and clean that gearbox before even running it. Usually it's done after break-in but it might be a good idea in this case.

What oil are you going to use ?

Cheers


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## Cobra (Sep 14, 2014)

When I got the Grizzly G0750G I put three 1 inch rare earth magnets in the front of the gear box.  They worked amazing to pull fragments and metallic dust out of the oil.  After the fist oil change just seem to be picking up very fine particle matter.


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## Falcon67 (Sep 14, 2014)

I got power to my Enco today but I plan to clean the gear box before running it in.  I have a bunch of killer magnets out of old hard drives.  Powerful and disposable. I found ISO 68 hydro fluid at TSC.  $25 for two gallons. So I have plenty to work with.


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## JayBob (Sep 15, 2014)

What do you guys do to keep the oil from getting everywhere when draining the threading gearbox?


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## darkzero (Sep 15, 2014)

JayBob said:


> What do you guys do to keep the oil from getting everywhere when draining the threading gearbox?



I used to use pieces that I cut from gallon coolant or oil containers to create a channel leading to my oil pan. Never spilled a drop on the floor. Now I use a  Form-A-Funnel .


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## zmotorsports (Sep 15, 2014)

darkzero said:


> I used to use pieces that I cut from gallon coolant or oil containers to create a channel leading to my oil pan. Never spilled a drop on the floor. Now I use a  Form-A-Funnel .



Exactly what I use.  The Form-A-Funnel works great.  I actually use it on a lot of applications where I cannot get a conventional funnel to work.  Another one of those, "why didn't I think of that" tools.:shrugs:


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## Falcon67 (Sep 15, 2014)

JayBob said:


> What do you guys do to keep the oil from getting everywhere when draining the threading gearbox?



I use the small oil fill funnel that came with our generator.  Got 3/4 of a gallon in a jug last night out of the big gear box, then set it up with a 1 lb coffee can (remember those lol) and the funnel and will let it drip all day.  Also pulled the gear box drive pulley and belts to make room.  When it's coming out fast, I have to use my finger to limit the flow since the funnel is pretty small.  For the lower gear box, I'll probably bend a small piece of .030 aluminum scrap to channel the flow.

I'll be cleaning the big gear box tonight - stuck my finger down there and it came back looking like the trans pan on the race car after blowing out the high gear clutches in the C4.


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## zmotorsports (Sep 15, 2014)

Falcon67 said:


> I use the small oil fill funnel that came with our generator.  Got 3/4 of a gallon in a jug last night out of the big gear box, then set it up with a 1 lb coffee can (remember those lol) and the funnel and will let it drip all day.  Also pulled the gear box drive pulley and belts to make room.  When it's coming out fast, I have to use my finger to limit the flow since the funnel is pretty small.  For the lower gear box, I'll probably bend a small piece of .030 aluminum scrap to channel the flow.
> 
> I'll be cleaning the big gear box tonight - stuck my finger down there and it came back looking like the trans pan on the race car after blowing out the high gear clutches in the C4.



Yuck, that doesn't sound good.  Good thing you are cleaning it out before running it.


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## ronsack (Sep 15, 2014)

I used one of these $6 HF hand pumps to remove the oil and refilled with ISO 68 HDY Fluid after about 10 Hrs of machine time.

I am going to change it again in about another 10 hrs so I have a gage.


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## tino_ale (Sep 19, 2014)

Hi guys,

Well I've searched for replacement oil, as mine looks quite black (as new) and the headstock is full of crude gunk. Not really willing to run the machine like that.

The search for the proper oil turns out to be a PITA! The only "machine" sources I could find online here in France sell 5L for about 50 euros. As I understand the machine will take almost 10L, that's an expensive oil change.

I know hydraulic fluid AW68 is a good replacement to the recommended Mobile DTE oil that I can't find here, but even that I can't find any tractor shop or whatever. France is not an industrial country anymore.

Is there a proper equivalent in the car industry ? It would be easier for me to find manual gear oil, ATF, or engine oil, etc (but only if one of those is okay for the machine).
I can also find "oil for air compressor" rather easily but they don't tell the exact specs. They just sell it as appropriate for air compressors.

Thanks for your help

Edit : best deal I've found so far is a car manual gearbox oil 75W80 or 75W90 mineral Oil for 6 euros per liter, only spec I have is API norm is GL4. Any clue if that one could be appropriate ?


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## Falcon67 (Sep 19, 2014)

75w80 is rear end lube and way too thick for machine use.  ISO68 is about like 20w oil.  I would at least try to find 20wt non-detergent (like lawn mowers, compressors, etc) oil for use in the gearbox.  You'd think there would be ISO68 hydraulic oil somewhere - I'd assume there are bulldozers, front end loaders and such in use there somewhere.  Cleaning out the gearbox and putting is fresh oil is worth the effort.


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## Bamban (Sep 20, 2014)

Thank you for sharing your experience.  I have a 1991 vintage Taiwanese made 12x36 lathe
 It did not come with a manual when I got it so I've been sort of using the Grizzly 12x36 manual as a sub for mine. 

The lathe being a 91 production and not knowing how the previous owner maintained it. In particular I am interested in the oil change.  I am reading here that ISO68 is used in the gear box tank. Is this specific to the PM1236, for comparison Grizzly recommends ISO32 for the gear box.

Is the ISO68 the correct gear box lubricant for the 12x36s?


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## tino_ale (Sep 20, 2014)

Hey,

OK I think I finally nailed it : 
http://www.amazon.fr/CEPSA-640413072-Hydraulique-Minérale-Hydrauliques/dp/B00L073UD6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1411230741&sr=8-5&keywords=hydraulique+68

Can you please give it a look and confirm that would be a suitable replacement for Mobil DTE heavy medium ?

The description sounds just right, only doubt is from what they write about some additives putting it in the "HM" anti wear category. I remember reading additives should be avoided for the bronze parts in the lathe headstock but I think that was about motor oil additives, not those anti wear ones.

Thanks and cheers

edit : and BTW, why such high viscosity hydraulic oils are recommended for the PM1236 ? (ISO 100 recommended and ISO 68 if operating in cold weather).
Browsing through general oil discussion on lathe forums it seems ISO 46 is usually the maximum that is mentioned.
Just curious

Lastly is any of those (hydraulic oil ISO 46 or ISO 68) suitable as a way oil ? If yes then I'll probably pic one oil for all the machine lubrification needs


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## Falcon67 (Sep 20, 2014)

For Austin, ISO68 should be fine.  Tractor Supply has it -$25 for  2 gallon jug.  I would not call ISO68 high viscosity.  More like 20w oil.  Pretty thin stuff.  I put it in the oil can and use it on everything. I would use it on a grizzley 12x36.  They called for 20w in my mill, I would use ISO also.


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## pdentrem (Sep 20, 2014)

tino_ale said:


> Hey,
> 
> OK I think I finally nailed it :
> http://www.amazon.fr/CEPSA-640413072-Hydraulique-Minérale-Hydrauliques/dp/B00L073UD6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1411230741&sr=8-5&keywords=hydraulique+68
> ...


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## Bamban (Sep 20, 2014)

Falcon67 said:


> For Austin, ISO68 should be fine.  Tractor Supply has it -$25 for  2 gallon jug.  I would not call ISO68 high viscosity.  More like 20w oil.  Pretty thin stuff.  I put it in the oil can and use it on everything. I would use it on a grizzley 12x36.  They called for 20w in my mill, I would use ISO also.



Thank you.


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## Falcon67 (Sep 21, 2014)

If I read this right (not) its great for separating pollutants, resists deposits, protects corrosion, they are unsure of capacity and provides resistance to mice.  My French is rough. ( non-existant).  Le Amazon to the rescue. Sounds like the right stuff. 



Grande capacité de séparation de polluants par l’eau (désémulsibilité). Haute résistance à la mousse. Haute capacité anti-usure. Résistance à la formation de boues et de dépôts. Excellente protection contre la corrosion et la rouille.


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## John Hasler (Sep 21, 2014)

Falcon67 said:


> If I read this right (not) its great for separating pollutants, resists deposits, protects corrosion, they are unsure of capacity and provides resistance to mice.  My French is rough. ( non-existant).  Le Amazon to the rescue. Sounds like the right stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> Grande capacité de séparation de polluants par l’eau (désémulsibilité). Haute résistance à la mousse. Haute capacité anti-usure. Résistance à la formation de boues et de dépôts. Excellente protection contre la corrosion et la rouille.



High capacity for emulsification of water.  Resists foaming.  Wear resistant.  Resists deposits.
Protects against corrosion.


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## tino_ale (Sep 21, 2014)

Guys,
Thanks for your help. I ordered 10L of the ISO 46. Apparently many are happy with ISO68 in hotter climates than mine, as I'll be operating the machine in as low as 5°C in winter, I went for the slightly lighter weight.

Other things I have collected and might be of some use to others :
- Mobil DTE heavy medium appears to be an ISO68 hydraulic oil, HL type (with active ingredients to increase the corrosion protection and resistance to aging)
DTE medium is impossible to find but appears to be ISO 46
DTE light is ISO 32

- mobil DTE "numbered" serie is the HM version of the "named" serie. HM: same as HL plus ingredients to reduce wear due to scoring in the mixed friction area.
Still non detergent.
DTE Number 24 is ISO 32
25 is ISO 46
26 is ISO 68
DTE "numbered" is often proposed as an alternative for machine oil to "named" DTE serie.


Basically I have purchased a close match to DTE 25 oil, just a different brand.

Now that I'm done with oil baths, moving on the way lube and gears grease.
Vactra 2 is recommended all the time for lubricating ways.
Any recommendation on the gears grease i should use ? I can easily find lithium based universal grease or white lithium grease also.

cheers


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