# How do I fix this? Shop Smith 6” Jointer



## Janderso (Dec 4, 2021)

Hey all,
I picked this up yesterday. It works! I used it last night. I paid $50.
It’s for my son the wood worker.
How would you fix this broken fixture? It’s cast aluminum.
What about JB weld?


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## rabler (Dec 4, 2021)

Nice find!  Your son should be excited.

Just throwing out random thoughts, hopefully someone with more experience can give you some good ideas. Going to be a challenge since that is a clamp piece.  Maybe build it back up via TIG?  It's a thick piece of aluminum so that may not be easy.  You could try the JB weld.  Last resort might be to mill out that whole side, and then make and bolt in a new round clamp section.


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## T Bredehoft (Dec 4, 2021)

That would be my suggestion, remove and replace the clamp with a steel piece.   The purpose of the clamp is to keep the fence square with the cutter.. You know that, but.... I've never used mine that I needed absolute squareness, some might have other opinions, but the location of the fence, (width of cut) is my only concern.

The lack of guard over the cutter is   of more concern. Don't run it without a guard.


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## Janderso (Dec 4, 2021)

T Bredehoft said:


> That would be my suggestion, remove and replace the clamp with a steel piece.   The purpose of the clamp is to keep the fence square with the cutter.. You know that, but.... I've never used mine that I needed absolute squareness, some might have other opinions, but the location of the fence, (width of cut) is my only concern.
> 
> The lack of guard over the cutter is   of more concern. Don't run it without a guard.


Yeah, there is no guard.
Please post a pic of a jointer guard. Maybe I can fashion one up?


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## talvare (Dec 4, 2021)

Ya, if I was a guy that had a nice big knee mill and a nice big lathe and lots of welding equipment and I was about to retire and looking for a nice challenging project in my shop, I would machine that broken piece off and fabricate a new clamp to either bolt on or weld on. But, I'd only do that if I was that guy. Do you know anyone like that Jeff ?

Ted


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## projectnut (Dec 4, 2021)

I would find a welding shop that could build up the original piece.  A friend of mine runs repair shop and welds aluminum on an almost daily basis.  It looks ugly when the building is complete but looks brand new when he's finished.  He's done far more complicated pieces for me.  In this case he would probably insert a dowel to simulate the rod, then build up a few layers.  Once there's enough material deposited, he would bore it and finish the outside by hand.


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## benmychree (Dec 4, 2021)

JB Weld would work at least As good as Silly Putty.


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## rabler (Dec 4, 2021)

The hole on the outer edge of the infeed table is probably for a guard.  Usually just a formed plastic or sheet metal piece pivoting from there extending over the cutter, with a spring at the pivot to push it against the fence.


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## T Bredehoft (Dec 4, 2021)

Jointer guard,  red/orange unit, pivot is in front on this one.






						Jointer IJ-872 | Baileigh Industrial
					

A long bed jointer is quickly becoming the go to for most wood workers because of the ease of material handling and improved accuracy.




					www.baileigh.com


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## Winegrower (Dec 4, 2021)

I think jointer guards are described as “pork chop” shaped.


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## Cadillac (Dec 4, 2021)

heat the crap out of it to get all contaminent out of the aluminum. Insert a steel or copper rod in the part. Then build up weld in the voids. Do alittle rest do alittle more till built up to what you’d like. Then file to finish. 

Ive never had any luck using JB weld as a “glue”. Using as a filler maybe but not a glue?? Idk good luck!


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## woodchucker (Dec 4, 2021)

rabler said:


> The hole on the outer edge of the infeed table is probably for a guard.  Usually just a formed plastic or sheet metal piece pivoting from there extending over the cutter, with a spring at the pivot to push it against the fence.


I would make it out of a piece of ply wood. Many old machines are retrofitted with a wood pork chop.
Add a steel rod with either a hole or notch, and wind your own music wire spring to close it.

Your other option to welding is cut off the clamp, square it off, put a new piece of material, I would just do T6, let the clamp bolt hold it, along with a pin.

if it were me

BTW take a random orbit sander and sand those tables and fence until nice and smooth... then wax them with a paste wax and polish.


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## Just for fun (Dec 4, 2021)

I think I would take Ted's @talvare  approach and built something new.   My first thought was welding also but being a clamp in bit sure that would hold up.   It's sure worth a try though.   If welding doesn't hold build a new piece. 

Tim


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## frugalguido (Dec 4, 2021)

I would work on the spring loaded blade guard first, don't use a jointer without one. Nothing worst than rotating knives! I would TIG weld a new piece in there after some serious clean up, then rebore.


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## rabler (Dec 4, 2021)

Orange plastic guard on mine.  Pivot on bottom left.  Yeah, its dusty, haven't used it in a few months.


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## MrWhoopee (Dec 4, 2021)

First choice would be fab a whole new piece.
Second choice would be remove the entire clamp, weld in a piece of round 6061 and re-machine the clamp. 
(Hint: After welding, 6061 tends to be soft and gummy. Boiling in water for few hours will restore some of the hardness, greatly improving machinability.)

Hey, isn't that the stand you were going to put your arbor press on?


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## rabler (Dec 4, 2021)

woodchucker said:


> wood pork chop.


Never heard that term used to describe that guard before, but it fits.


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## C-Bag (Dec 4, 2021)

Janderso said:


> Hey all,
> I picked this up yesterday. It works! I used it last night. I paid $50.
> It’s for my son the wood worker.
> How would you fix this broken fixture? It’s cast aluminum.
> What about JB weld?


That part looks born to die. I mean making a clamping setup like that out of aluminum? The piece with the clamping bolt through it is free now because of the break, no? If so, I’d grind the stationary part even and use it as the guide base and replicate the clamp part to mate to it and not worry about the open slit on top. I tend to make my fixes look like that’s the way it should have come instead of the poor factory design.

It might be just an illusion but is there the start of a crack in the opposite one? Might be fixing that one soon too.


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## Flyinfool (Dec 4, 2021)

My first choice would be to weld it. I would MIG weld it since that is what I have. If you don't have a welder then take it to a weld shop to get it welded. Have it all cleaned and prepped and ready to go so that they just have to do the welding. Then bring it home to bore and do the final cleanup.

If welding is just not an option, I would add one wide metal strap or several straps over the top attached to with 3 or 4 screws on each side of the break. If you do it right and keep the screw holes as small as possible so there is no slop, it will easily take the tension of the clamp bolt.


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## Ulma Doctor (Dec 4, 2021)

i'd consider a carbon dowel to take the place of the steel guide rod
build up the area with aluminum brazing rods and aluminum brazing flux
fit finish and paint


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## woodchucker (Dec 4, 2021)

C-Bag said:


> That part looks born to die. I mean making a clamping setup like that out of aluminum?


just curious, why do you think an aluminum clamp won't work?


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## C-Bag (Dec 4, 2021)

Past experience. I’ve run into machines with this kind of clamp. Usually you have to loosen it then pry to get it loose enough to move so it puts stress on that upper part where it broke. It’s the thinnest there because it has to be able to flex, add to that it seems the aluminum stretches or deforms. I’ve rarely seen that kind of clamp die on cast iron.


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## woodchucker (Dec 4, 2021)

C-Bag said:


> Past experience. I’ve run into machines with this kind of clamp. Usually you have to loosen it then pry to get it loose enough to move so it puts stress on that upper part where it broke. It’s the thinnest there because it has to be able to flex, add to that it seems the aluminum stretches or deforms. I’ve rarely seen that kind of clamp die on cast iron.


ok, might be. Another solution might still be aluminum with no split, add a brass tipped screw that bears on the rod.  Quick, and done.


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## C-Bag (Dec 4, 2021)

woodchucker said:


> ok, might be. Another solution might still be aluminum with no split, add a brass tipped screw that bears on the rod.  Quick, and done.


True.


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## woodchucker (Dec 4, 2021)

woodchucker said:


> ok, might be. Another solution might still be aluminum with no split, add a brass tipped screw that bears on the rod.  Quick, and done.


maybe even sleeve the aluminum with a brass tube to allow it to slide more freely. you could also split the brass sleeve, and have the screw bear on the brass.. or you could put a split nut like the bridgeport quill break , or even my AXA boring bar holder...  

so many solutions..

of course you could always weld it.


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## Janderso (Dec 4, 2021)

C-Bag said:


> That part looks born to die. I mean making a clamping setup like that out of aluminum? The piece with the clamping bolt through it is free now because of the break, no? If so, I’d grind the stationary part even and use it as the guide base and replicate the clamp part to mate to it and not worry about the open slit on top. I tend to make my fixes look like that’s the way it should have come instead of the poor factory design.
> 
> It might be just an illusion but is there the start of a crack in the opposite one? Might be fixing that one soon too.


I like the idea of cleaning up the damaged side to a straight form and fabricate a clamping device!!
The other side is a casting seam/design. No crack.
Yeah, aluminum castings for this application seems it's destined to fail.


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## Janderso (Dec 4, 2021)

Ulma Doctor said:


> i'd consider a carbon dowel to take the place of the steel guide rod
> build up the area with aluminum brazing rods and aluminum brazing flux
> fit finish and paint


I don't share your confidence in my melting abilities . Oh what a mess I would make.


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## Janderso (Dec 4, 2021)

woodchucker said:


> Your other option to welding is cut off the clamp, square it off, put a new piece of material, I would just do T6, let the clamp bolt hold it, along with a pin.


I like it


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## pacifica (Dec 4, 2021)

Janderso said:


> Hey all,
> I picked this up yesterday. It works! I used it last night. I paid $50.
> It’s for my son the wood worker.
> How would you fix this broken fixture? It’s cast aluminum.
> What about JB weld?


I believe it could be used as is, perhaps drill and type the side that isn't broke and put in a friction bolt. 
Most important on a jointer is a smooth motor, sharp blades, Light cuts and a square fence.
You don't need to put a lot of force on the fence to joint a piece of wood.
It probably broke because someone tweaked it too hard with a wrench.


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## nnam (Dec 4, 2021)

Can you make a round core the size of steel rod, made of high heat such as fire brick.  Then carefully fill it ui p with aluminum.   The clamp part is just then be designed along with it, such as extending the aluminum longer, cut 2 slits and clamp it with a steel band clamp.  Screw the band down so it doesn't get lost.


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## Janderso (Dec 4, 2021)

nnam said:


> Can you make a round core the size of steel rod, made of high heat such as fire brick.  Then carefully fill it ui p with aluminum.   The clamp part is just then be designed along with it, such as extending the aluminum longer, cut 2 slits and clamp it with a steel band clamp.  Screw the band down so it doesn't get lost.


That’s pretty ambitious.
I don’t have the means but I like your creativity!!


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## nnam (Dec 4, 2021)

Just so you know, it is very doable.  Here is an example of core making.








Janderso said:


> That’s pretty ambitious.
> I don’t have the means but I like your creativity!!


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## nnam (Dec 5, 2021)

I thought about this abit more, and the possible contamination from the core is too high. 
It is easier to cut out a rectangle section, find a thick aluminum piece and bend it, cut to matching cut out hole, then use the steel stick as a guide with a thin shim for clearance, weld it back on.

I would still weld on a collar at the end, and cut 2 or 3 slits to clamp the steel rod.  It is probably better than clamping with cast aluminum as the orig source of failure.


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## Winegrower (Dec 5, 2021)

I like the thought expressed earlier that there is not much sideways force on the fence.   I would let my son use it as is for a bit, see if he ever makes anything with it, and if he does, then buy him an 8” Powermatic with helical head.

How about that plan?


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## Janderso (Dec 18, 2021)

nnam said:


> Can you make a round core the size of steel rod, made of high heat such as fire brick.  Then carefully fill it ui p with aluminum.   The clamp part is just then be designed along with it, such as extending the aluminum longer, cut 2 slits and clamp it with a steel band clamp.  Screw the band down so it doesn't get lost.


I think I’ll deal with it if it causes a problem.
I just used it after getting it running. The clamp tightens up fine?


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## Janderso (Dec 18, 2021)

I’m done for now.
It works. 
I sharpened the blades on the SG.


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## Just for fun (Dec 18, 2021)

Nice job!

Tim


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## Ulma Doctor (Dec 18, 2021)

don't get much better than that! 
nice job Jeff!


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## projectnut (Dec 19, 2021)

I made a fixture like that for sharpening the blades on my Delta Jointer about 25 years ago.  I used it a couple times and put it in one of those "special places" to be sure I didn't toss it out.  All these years later I've searched the top high and low, but still can't find the "special place".  Being too lazy to make another I bought a couple sets of extra blades.


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