# Help me get over the hump



## Lowlyslows (Jan 9, 2019)

Hey all,

I am new to machining and could use some opinions.

I am trying to justify purchasing a lathe for my hobbies, mainly building classic cars. But, because of my ignorance with the use of a lathe, I can’t picture what I would use it for other than making spacers, bungs, and parts for creating or fixing tools. Not sure how often I would actually use the lathe.

Looking at the Little Machine Shop 5100 HiTorque 7x16 Lathe and the Precision Matthews 1022v lathe. I have toyed with spending the extra $100 to get the PM 1030v but I don’t know if I will need the extra length.

Anyway, could use some knowledge dropped on me to help me get over the hump on whether to make the purchase or not. Machining is fascinating to me and I know I would enjoy it but only if I actually do it / use it to support my main hobby in any shape or form.

Thanks in advance!


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## Mark Needham (Jan 9, 2019)

As a Hobby, you will *never* be able to justify it.
You have to be Selfish, self centered, egotistic, mongrel bastard. At least that is what my missus called me the last time.

The point is, if you are concerned about money, PLEASE NOTE, that the lathe or mill, is the cheap bit. All the tooling is the main piece of the pie.

But, Fair Dinkum. Do it, Buy what you can afford. In 38 years, I can not remember having anything over 12" in my lathe. ( 36" centers). But one day it will be too bloody small by 1"!!!!!
Restoring old cars, will not justify the lathe, but shoot it's nice, when you do have a job for it and you actually make something that is practical, usefull and worth while.
Best of Luck to you.


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## Cadillac (Jan 9, 2019)

[QUOTE="Lowlyslows, post: 

I am trying to justify purchasing a lathe for my hobbies, mainly building classic cars. I can’t picture what I would use it for other than making spacers, bungs, and parts for creating or fixing tools.![/QUOTE]


You answered your own question. That’s good enough for me expectially when dealing with classics. I don’t buy anything I think I can make. I fix about 98% of fixable items or modify to some degree. Plastics I toss no fixing but I might replace with a metal. Possibilities are endless with proper tools and imagination. Remember someone made the parts you deal with day in and out so tools,knowledge,ambition your half there.


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## Nogoingback (Jan 9, 2019)

You will justify owning a lathe and tooling it up the same way you justify the hobby of working on classic cars...


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## samstu (Jan 9, 2019)

Why not some old american iron?  Looks cools, smells good and built like a tank.  Most classic cars don't need those metric threads and a good old southbend or logan can be found for far less money than a new lathe.  Those leather belts have a great sound and are forgiving of your first crash.  Plus you get something else to save and restore without telling the wife you bought another car....

And as a friend of mine said when explaining his military vehicle collection to me, "need has nothing to do with it....."


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## mikey (Jan 9, 2019)

Lowlyslows said:


> Anyway, could use some knowledge dropped on me to help me get over the hump on whether to make the purchase or not. Machining is fascinating to me and I know I would enjoy it but only if I actually do it / use it to support my main hobby in any shape or form.



Wait, you're coming onto a machining forum and asking us to help you to decide if you should buy a lathe or not ... our opinions might be a bit biased, just so you know.  

You say you already know you will enjoy machining. I happen to think you will, too, but as @Mark Needham said, _The point is, if you are concerned about money, PLEASE NOTE, that the lathe or mill, is the cheap bit. All the tooling is the main piece of the pie._

I would echo his caution. Buying a lathe or mill is the cheapest part. The tooling required to make full use of these machines can easily exceed the cost for the machines themselves. You have been warned.

With that said, a lathe is one of the most useful machines in any shop. Once you learn to use it, you'll wonder how you ever got along without it. I have many hobbies - cars, photography, archery, car audio, lawn equipment/small motors, wood working, etc, etc. I got my lathe and mill to support these other hobbies and they did but what happened over the years is that machining became my main hobby! I still make stuff for those other hobbies but I also make stuff for myself and other folks, too.

I tend to be long winded but what I meant to say is yes, buy a lathe if you can afford it. If you intend to use it to make parts for a car then you will be better off with at least a medium sized lathe, something in the 10-12" class. This is assuming you won't be making hardened axles from scratch. Before buying one, research all the features a good lathe should have; you will find that the cheap lathes will not have all these desired features. I would buy a new lathe unless you are into fixing up old machines and dealing with decades of wear and tear. 

Before you buy, ask the guys about the machine you're thinking of buying to get first hand knowledge about it. A lathe is a major purchase so do your homework.


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## kd4gij (Jan 9, 2019)

If wou are restoring classic cars a 14x40 or 16x40 would be ideal.


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## DAT510 (Jan 9, 2019)

Welcome to H-M,

Once you have a lathe and start making things.... the more items you will realize you can make/modify for your cars or anything else you touch.

In addition to H-M, Youtube is a great source to see how other people machine items you may be interested making.

In addition to spacers, you can make pulleys, shafts, threaded ends for suspension links, etc.  I recently shorten the shafts of a pair of half shafts for a CV conversion on my rear suspension.  I've also turned down the treaded shoulder on some struts shafts so they would extend all the way through the spherical bearing in my camber plates.  

Another member "bakrch" just posted the custom shift knobs he made on the POTD posting.  Really anything that needs to be turned, Concentric or Offset, can be done on the lathe.   Some people also add a milling attachment to their lathes and use it for both, though milling is a bit more limited on a lathe than a dedicated mill.

There's a saying "Get the biggest lathe you can afford" (and Fit), for the most part I agree with it.  So if you can fit a 10x30 go for it.  I have 10x24 and turning the strut shafts was a pushing the length of my lathe.  Typically bigger lathes have bigger motors and good low speed torque is always a plus.

Hope this helps.


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## Lowlyslows (Jan 9, 2019)

mikey said:


> Wait, you're coming onto a machining forum and asking us to help you to decide if you should buy a lathe or not ... our opinions might be a bit biased, just so you know.
> 
> I tend to be long winded but what I meant to say is yes, buy a lathe if you can afford it. If you intend to use it to make parts for a car then you will be better off with at least a medium sized lathe, something in the 10-12" class. This is assuming you won't be making hardened axles from scratch. Before buying one, research all the features a good lathe should have; you will find that the cheap lathes will not have all these desired features. I would buy a new lathe unless you are into fixing up old machines and dealing with decades of wear and tear.
> 
> Before you buy, ask the guys about the machine you're thinking of buying to get first hand knowledge about it. A lathe is a major purchase so do your homework.



Exactly why I asked on this forum!! Looking for a biased response

I can afford $2500 for a lathe right now and I intend to start with HSS blanks and make my own tooling initially, I heard that's a good way to go when learning to machine. The Precision Matthews 1022v fits the class you suggest and has, IMO for what it's worth, lots of features. I never thought of making my own axles, maybe down the road (still unsure how to do the splines!). 

Anyway, thanks for the suggestion. I have been researching machines for the past month.


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## derf (Jan 9, 2019)

Do you know what your'e getting yourself into? Buying a lathe is like a "gateway drug".....


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## BGHansen (Jan 9, 2019)

I you buy a used, good condition lathe, you've already worked down the depreciation curve.  Question would be why is the seller getting rid of the lathe.  With a used lathe, if you don't beat it up, you should get market price when/if you sell it.

Buy new and you'll have a warranty, but will spend a bunch tooling it up.  Go to sell it to upgrade and you'll take it on the chin, maybe get 60% of your money back.  

Guess if I was in your shoes, I'd look for a used 10 x 24 or 12 x 36 lathe.  Once you have it, you will probably find other uses than what you mentioned above.  Regardless, if you want it and your better half approves, go for it!  My wife lives by the motto, "if it doesn't burn gasoline or have blond hair, she doesn't worry about it".  However, I'm super lucky to have my wife . . .  If you find it's not to your liking, you should be able to get out of it what you put into it.

Consider using www.searchtempest.com to do some eBay and Craig's List shopping in your area.  It's a really nice search engine where you plug in a search title, price range, location, etc. and up pops the list.  I've got a few options listed below in your relative area.

Good luck and welcome to the madness . . .

Bruce


Atlas 10x24 $950
https://frederick.craigslist.org/tls/d/lisbon-atlas-metal-lathe/6788506969.html

Atlas 12x36 $1050
https://delaware.craigslist.org/tls/d/townsend-craftsmen-atlas-12-inch-lathe/6788571027.html

Grizzly 14x40 G0709 $4900
I have the same lathe, really like my machine.  I'd guess for what's there, it should be more like $3500-$4000
https://reading.craigslist.org/for/d/orwigsburg-lathe/6785629483.html

Harbor Freight 7 x 14 (?) $400
https://harrisburg.craigslist.org/tls/d/camp-hill-metal-lathe/6778252467.html

Atlas 12x36 $600 - looks a little beat up.  QCGB knobs are broken off, half nut lever is on backwards.  Might be OK, but . . .
https://charlotte.craigslist.org/tls/d/mooresville-small-atlas-engine-lathe/6790461354.html

Enco 12x36 $1400 - looks to be missing some stuff like change gears, steady rest, etc.  I'd ask the seller what else he might have.
https://greensboro.craigslist.org/tls/d/staley-1985-enco-metal-lathe/6777653641.html

There were some other matches out there but I only listed the ones that are hobby sized and have a quick change gear box.


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## Aaron_W (Jan 9, 2019)

Lowlyslows said:


> Exactly why I asked on this forum!! Looking for a biased response
> 
> I can afford $2500 for a lathe right now and I intend to start with HSS blanks and make my own tooling initially, I heard that's a good way to go when learning to machine. The Precision Matthews 1022v fits the class you suggest and has, IMO for what it's worth, lots of features. I never thought of making my own axles, maybe down the road (still unsure how to do the splines!).
> 
> Anyway, thanks for the suggestion. I have been researching machines for the past month.



Something to consider with the size of a lathe, the nominal size (10x22" in the case of the PM) is theoretical, in practice you are limited to parts about 1/2 the stated diameter for unrestricted use. 

In length 22" is not the length of work, it is the working area. You have to consider the tooling that may be used as well, throw in a 3 or 4 jaw chuck, and you lose a few inches, if you are drilling, you lose a few inches for the drill chuck and then a couple more for the drill bit. Depending on what you are doing, out of that 22" you may only be left with 12-14" for the piece you are working on.

The nice thing with a lathe, most of the work is contained within the foot print of the lathe so you don't need a ton of room around the machine.


Buying a new lathe can be a big help for someone coming into this with little experience. The old machines can be better, but they also require some knowledge up front to find a good deal. The PM lathes have a pretty good following here, and you rarely find them for sale used. If you later wanted to go bigger you could probably move that one along quite easily.


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## ttabbal (Jan 9, 2019)

derf said:


> Do you know what your'e getting yourself into? Buying a lathe is like a "gateway drug".....



Ain't that the truth! I started wanting to make little stuff on the lathe. Ended up with a much bigger lathe than I initially thought I wanted, tooling, grinding stuff to make tools... 

Then I found a nice old bridgeport mil...  The cycle continues there. 

Loads of fun though. The wife thinks I'm insane, but she thought that before and she's not wrong.


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## mikey (Jan 9, 2019)

Lowlyslows said:


> I can afford $2500 for a lathe right now ... the Precision Matthews 1022v fits the class you suggest and has, IMO for what it's worth, lots of features. I never thought of making my own axles, maybe down the road (still unsure how to do the splines!).



See, this is what I meant about features. All lathes have a lot of features but some are okay and some are much better. For example, look at how the chuck mounts on a 1022 vs an 1127 or 1236. The latter uses a D1-4 camlock spindle so any D1-4 camlock chuck will fit on it; not so with the 1022. You get better, more precise headstock bearings and spindles and a separate saddle feed bar with the larger lathes. They are also heavier and, in the case of the 1236, more rigid. If you are going for a lathe in this class, I would take a good look at the PM1127 and 1236 lathes.


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## Ken from ontario (Jan 9, 2019)




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## Lowlyslows (Jan 9, 2019)

mikey said:


> See, this is what I meant about features. All lathes have a lot of features but some are okay and some are much better. For example, look at how the chuck mounts on a 1022 vs an 1127 or 1236. The latter uses a D1-4 camlock spindle so any D1-4 camlock chuck will fit on it; not so with the 1022. You get better, more precise headstock bearings and spindles and a separate saddle feed bar with the larger lathes. They are also heavier and, in the case of the 1236, more rigid. If you are going for a lathe in this class, I would take a good look at the PM1127 and 1236 lathes.



I see what you're talking about. The 1127 is a better lathe. However, is this the "at least buy this" mind set? I can always go to the next size up which can be a better lathe as well. It's almost $1000 more than the 1022/30 lathe. Wouldn't I be fine with the 1022/30 lathe? Or is the D1-4 camlock worth the extra $$ amongst the other features?

I also plan to mount the unit on top of a tool chest with a thick top. It can handle 1,100 lbs and would be great to keep all the tooling co-located with the unit.


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## kd4gij (Jan 9, 2019)

With a 14x40 or larger lathe you can do things like turning drums and rotors And much more.


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## Nogoingback (Jan 9, 2019)

You see how it goes?  You come in thinking 1022, and you're up to a 14 x 40 already.  The folks
around here are like drug dealers...


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## ttabbal (Jan 9, 2019)

Indeed. I do really like my PM1127 though.


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## kd4gij (Jan 9, 2019)

No matter how big of a machines you get there will be many times it is to small for what you have at the time.


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## Aaron_W (Jan 9, 2019)

Lowlyslows said:


> I see what you're talking about. The 1127 is a better lathe. However, is this the "at least buy this" mind set? I can always go to the next size up which can be a better lathe as well. It's almost $1000 more than the 1022/30 lathe. Wouldn't I be fine with the 1022/30 lathe? Or is the D1-4 camlock worth the extra $$ amongst the other features?
> 
> I also plan to mount the unit on top of a tool chest with a thick top. It can handle 1,100 lbs and would be great to keep all the tooling co-located with the unit.




This is where it helps to have a solid idea of what you want to do. Moving up to an 11 or 12" lathe will get you more power, and a larger spindle bore as well as a larger envelope all around. It also usually means moving up to 220v, and pretty much eliminates any chance of moving the lathe without mechanical assistance. 

It is also a very slippery slope. The 1022 is $2300, but for only $900 more you can get the 1127, and now you are only $300 from a 12x28. Once there its only another $500 for the 1236T "Ultra Precision" and that gets you within $1000 of the 1340GT, I think you see where this is headed. 


I'm going to buck the trend here a bit. Since you really don't know how you are going to use the lathe, you might consider going smaller (and cheaper) to start. You can learn the basics on a smaller lathe just as easily as the larger, and for the kinds of things you described in you first post they might be just fine. An 8x16 or 9x20 can be had new for less than $1500 and often for less than $1000 used. Tooling is generally cheaper for smaller lathes too. Use that lathe to learn and figure out your needs / wants. 

Maybe that small lathe will be all you need, maybe it will help you decide you really need a 20x84 like this https://bakersfield.craigslist.org/tls/d/santa-barbara-industrial-metal-lathe/6779698831.html

Also once you have played with the lathe for a while and hung around here, you will get a much better feel for what to look at on a used lathe.

$2500 is a lot of money to spend on something that may not meet your needs. Small lathes also seem to hold their value a little better, because there is a much larger market for them. The 9" and 10" Logan, Southbend, and Atlas lathes can often be found at similar prices to larger 12-14" lathes because almost anybody can fit these small/medium size lathes into their shop. 

Notice the low price on the monster I linked to above. It takes a special kind of dedication to provide a home to a 13 foot long 6000lb lathe.


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## kd4gij (Jan 9, 2019)

Here is a nice small lathe


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## ttabbal (Jan 9, 2019)

Having recently been there, I was looking at the 1022/1030 initially. I think it would have been a good choice for me, but I chose the 1127.

Larger spindle bore. I didn't initially think I'd care that much, but having done more work on the lathe, I'm very glad to have it. 

D1-4. I initially thought it was a little thing. But being able to rapidly change the chuck is really nice. It also meant I could get standard chucks like collet chucks or higher end 3/4/6 jaws and they will fit right up. That said, the bolt on style the 1022 uses works well and you can still thread in reverse, which is a very nice way to go. Some of the old iron can't do that as the chuck threads on the spindle directly. 

The 1127 and up have wider beds, more rigidity and more powerful motors. 

One thing I like about PM is that even the smaller 1022 has power cross feed. I initially didn't think it would be a big deal, but I use it every time I use the lathe. I wouldn't want one without it now. 

I think those are the big differences that made me go up. Do you need them? Hard to say. It's easy for us to spend your money.  I will say that of the smaller lathes, I liked the PM the most. You get a lot of bang for your buck with them. If I were to get the 10", I would go with the 1030. It's a small amount extra, but after seeing how much space tooling takes up, I think I would feel cramped on the 1022. After that it gets VERY easy to fall into the "just another few hundred" trap.


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## mikey (Jan 9, 2019)

Lowlyslows said:


> I see what you're talking about. The 1127 is a better lathe. However, is this the "at least buy this" mind set? I can always go to the next size up which can be a better lathe as well. It's almost $1000 more than the 1022/30 lathe. Wouldn't I be fine with the 1022/30 lathe? Or is the D1-4 camlock worth the extra $$ amongst the other features?
> 
> I also plan to mount the unit on top of a tool chest with a thick top. It can handle 1,100 lbs and would be great to keep all the tooling co-located with the unit.



There is a thing called "feature creep". You look at a lathe but the next model up has this feature or that feature and its only a few hundred more. It goes on and on and unless you know which features matter to you, there is no end to it. That is why I mentioned that you need to know which features are really important to have, so you can draw a line. Another parameter that helps to draw a line is your budget. If you decide there is a number you cannot cross then draw that line and don't look at lathes above that number.

I'll try to help by telling you the features I think are really important to have.

Camlock spindle. This allows you to use a chuck made by any manufacturer, as long as it fits your lathe. Smaller lathes typically come with a proprietary spindle. To me, this feature is really important.
Separate saddle drive shaft. Most small lathes drive the saddle via a key that rides in a slot in the leadscrew. It works. However, a separate drive shaft is much better, will live longer and will probably be more accurate over time.
Precision spindle and high accuracy spindle bearings.
Hardened and ground ways.
Quick change gearbox with hardened and ground gears. NO plastic gears. This is a big deal. Change speeds and feeds or threading capabilities with levers, not change gears.
Spindle bore size. The bigger, the better. 1.5" is always better than 1". No matter how big the bore is, you will always find a situation where it is too small.
I got delayed by chores and meanwhile, @ttabbal posted most of what I was going to say. I'll go out on the limb and say, yes, at least buy the 1127. The smaller lathes just lack the features you really need to do serious lathe work. To be honest, even the 1127 is a bit light and the PM1236 is better, heavier, more rigid. I'm not sure you will benefit much from going bigger unless you have large work in mind.

I have an 11" lathe, an Austrian-built Emco Super11 CD. The cost to fully tool this lathe up could have paid for two PM1340's. Glad I got what I got but I have to say that in my opinion, a PM1236 lathe is a bargain.


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## ttabbal (Jan 9, 2019)

Having swapped the stack of gears a fair number of times now, I would like to have a gearbox. They just don't seem to be a thing on the smaller machines though. 

I handle that by trying to save any single point threading for the end of the project, so I can do it all at once, minimizing gear swaps. 

I may well do a seperate drive motor on the feed screw for power feed. It's much more difficult to handle threading that way, but feeds are doable without too much complexity. That's a whole different can of worms though.


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## ThinWoodsman (Jan 10, 2019)

Wanted to add that when people say "half the cost of the lathe is tooling", they're not just talking about the cutters. Sure, some of the expense is in boring bars, sitting saws, drills, taps/dies, annular cutters, and so forth, but "tooling" can also include:
  * tool holding : arbors, collet chucks, QCTP holders
  * workholding : collets, faceplate, faceplate clamping kit, vertical milling table, 3- 4- 6-jaw chucks, dead centers, live centers, steady rest, follower rest
  * setup : dial indicator and mount, 1-2-3 blocks, precision level (maybe, according to a recent thread)

Now, the PM lathes come with a lot of the workholding stuff, so you're saving a bit of money there, but you should still factor in about a grand on tooling as you learn to use the thing.

As for the lathe itself, at the size you're looking at it's probably better to go new than used (used benchtops seem to be more rare than the larger machines, and often in worse condition), and the PM ones being discussed the best way to go in my opinion. When starting out, I would have opted for the 1022; now, I would go with the 1127. It is 150% the cost, but twice the lathe in terms of quality and features (the dedicated power feed screw, cam-lock spindle, spindle bore size).


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## Lowlyslows (Jan 10, 2019)

Thanks for all the replies! I am considering the 1127 now. I'm still worried about it just sitting in my shop collecting dust though. Maybe some lathe projects would help me learn what I can use it for for my automotive projects.


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## ThinWoodsman (Jan 10, 2019)

Lowlyslows said:


> Maybe some lathe projects would help me learn what I can use it for for my automotive projects.



Lathework, a complete course


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## Charles Spencer (Jan 10, 2019)

Lowlyslows said:


> Thanks for all the replies! I am considering the 1127 now. I'm still worried about it just sitting in my shop collecting dust though. Maybe some lathe projects would help me learn what I can use it for for my automotive projects.



Simple:  Buy a milling machine.  Then you will discover the truth of the axiom:

Lathe (n) - a device for making parts for a milling machine
Milling Machine (n) - a device for making parts for a lathe


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## Lowlyslows (Jan 10, 2019)

Charles Spencer said:


> Simple:  Buy a milling machine.  Then you will discover the truth of the axiom:
> 
> Lathe (n) - a device for making parts for a milling machine
> Milling Machine (n) - a device for making parts for a lathe



I thought a lathe is the only machine that can make all the parts to build a lathe..


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## Nogoingback (Jan 10, 2019)

Lowlyslows said:


> Thanks for all the replies! I am considering the 1127 now. I'm still worried about it just sitting in my shop collecting dust though. Maybe some lathe projects would help me learn what I can use it for for my automotive projects.




The usual procedure after buying the machine and tooling it up is to use the lathe to make more tools for itself.


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## tjb (Jan 10, 2019)

Can't really add anything new to the wealth of information posted so far, but I can tell you this.  I got into machining exactly the way you're about to.  I've built several street rods and a few years ago, I needed a custom part milled because I couldn't buy what I wanted.  I watched a guy mill it for me and thought this could be interesting.  Not too long after, I had my first milling machine and lathe, and it has become my preferred hobby - lot to learn, but I'm having fun.

A word of advice.  Within your budget, buy the biggest/heaviest machine your shop can accommodate.  My 'go to' lathe is a 13x40, and there have been a few instances where I wished it were bigger.  If you're into classic cars, you shouldn't be too intimidated by used equipment, but based on experience, I would suggest being careful to buy a machine that will have easily replaceable parts.  It can be a very expensive nightmare if you buy a good piece of equipment that needs what appears to be a relatively minor part but ends up costing a fortune.  (I'm currently being very cautious about buying a nice used surface grinder that is no longer in production.  If it needs ANYTHING, a good deal could go south in a hurry.  Read through my current thread on a K. O. Lee surface grinder, and you'll see what I mean.)

Finally, I would suggest perusing this site regularly.  I've learned more about machining from studying the veterans here than I have from any other source.  I've never worked in a machine shop, so this is all new.  Everybody here is willing to help.  Even occasionally, we rookies have something to offer.

Regards,
Terry


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## ezduzit (Jan 10, 2019)

Far better to buy used. I bought my knee mill and 12" x 35" lathe for $2,000. Came with several boxes of tooling.


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## mikey (Jan 10, 2019)

Lowlyslows said:


> I'm still worried about it just sitting in my shop collecting dust though.



Sorry but this made me laugh ... don't worry, the lathe won't sit. We don't realize how many of the things in our lives that have round things in them. I cannot count the number of times I needed a washer, threaded something or other and whipped it out on the lathe because it was faster to do that than run to the hardware store. A good friend needed a custom adapter to hook up part of the cooling system when installing a V8 in his old Jaguar. In the time it took him to drive to my house, I had the part made. Then there are parts to fix broken things around the house, tools for the lathe or shop, prototypes for an invention that pops into your mind at 3am and it goes on and on.

Don't forget that a lathe is going to be an important element in the personal growth you're about to experience. Trust me; the lathe will not sit for long.


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## Mitch Alsup (Jan 10, 2019)

Lowlyslows said:


> I am new to machining and could use some opinions.
> 
> I am trying to justify purchasing a lathe for my hobbies, mainly building classic cars.



I see that the others have pointed you down the route of the lathe, and discussed feature creep,.....
Now it is time to interest you in a Mill! Mills have the same kind of feature creep.....

Lathes are for making things round and flat faced.
Mills are for making things flat. 
For example, say you need an angle bracket and only have a block of steel.
You clamp the steel in the vise, insert end mill, and cut the block into an angle bracket.
You definitely need both in order to restore classic cars!

Now as to justification--its a hobby, it needs no justification--other than making you happy.


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## Lowlyslows (Jan 10, 2019)

mikey said:


> Sorry but this made me laugh ... don't worry, the lathe won't sit. We don't realize how many of the things in our lives that have round things in them. I cannot count the number of times I needed a washer, threaded something or other and whipped it out on the lathe because it was faster to do that than run to the hardware store. A good friend needed a custom adapter to hook up part of the cooling system when installing a V8 in his old Jaguar. In the time it took him to drive to my house, I had the part made. Then there are parts to fix broken things around the house, tools for the lathe or shop, prototypes for an invention that pops into your mind at 3am and it goes on and on.
> 
> Don't forget that a lathe is going to be an important element in the personal growth you're about to experience. Trust me; the lathe will not sit for long.



Very good points! 

Thanks everyone for the help! I have decided to go for it! Now I just need to figure out how to mount it!


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## Lowlyslows (Jan 10, 2019)

Mitch Alsup said:


> I see that the others have pointed you down the route of the lathe, and discussed feature creep,.....
> Now it is time to interest you in a Mill! Mills have the same kind of feature creep.....
> 
> Lathes are for making things round and flat faced.
> ...



I’m sure a mill is in my future as well, already have a spot picked out for it in my shop as well as a 20amp circuit waiting to power it.


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## mikey (Jan 10, 2019)

Please, please take the time to ask the guys who own the lathe you're thinking of buying for their opinions on that lathe. They will know the pros and cons and that might make a difference to you. Once you are dead sure you know the machine is right for you, then jump.


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## Lowlyslows (Jan 10, 2019)

mikey said:


> Please, please take the time to ask the guys who own the lathe you're thinking of buying for their opinions on that lathe. They will know the pros and cons and that might make a difference to you. Once you are dead sure you know the machine is right for you, then jump.



Will do!


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## eugene13 (Jan 10, 2019)

When I bought my lathe and mill my wife asked, "What is a lathe for?" I answered, For making things that are round." "What is a mill for?" she asked.  "For making thing that are not round," I answered.  My first project on the lathe was a set of four hardwood lids for the stoneware crocks that she uses for kitchen canisters, that paid for the lathe, and I got the mill for free.


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## Dabbler (Jan 10, 2019)

Just to echo Mikey and Mark and others.  On another forum I was asked a similar question, so I opened up my lathe drawers, and here's my result:

I bought my lathe 38 years ago, for just under $2000.  Over the years I have purchased a lot of tooling, much of it 30  years ago.
_*At purchase prices, from many years ago, *_I guestimate that I have put more than $4000 in tooling for it, and am getting ready to add a chuck and some other tooling getting close to an additional $800.

On the mill it was worse, with rotary table, etc...


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## savarin (Jan 10, 2019)

I believe the old adage of if the only tool you have is a hammer then every problem seems like a nail.
Once you have the lathe you will find a myriad of things to do with it, most of which you would never even have dreamed of before.
I think the advice to get the largest you can afford is correct, my little 9x20 has been pushed way beyond its comfort zone and many times I wish it was larger, more rigid, had better controls etc etc but its amazing what you can do with a little "outside the square" thought.


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## TQA222 (Jan 11, 2019)

I have to issue an official wallet health warning at this point. If you get into REALLY using your lathe to rebuild old cars. You will soon decide that you MUST HAVE a Bridgeport milling machine.  

I did that a lot back in the 60s and 70s in Scotland. At this time people were virtually giving away old Italian cars because there were no spares available and mechanics hated the metric nonsense. We were buying Alfa Romeo 2.6 Spyders with a broken engine for a few hundred   

We had a couple of lathes and a vertical spindle milling machine. They came out of ships that were being scrapped at Rosyth dockyard. They were belt driven and gave the factory inspectors fits when they saw them. 

Yup the Bridgeport will be on your wish list in weeks.


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