# Colchester 1965 Roundhead Lathe Restoration Project



## Kroll

Well guys with the help of the membership I have built up enough courage to start on my lathe breaking it down into sections.Doing so will be looking for broken parts,gears who's teeth has not seen the dentist in yrs,do a cleaning then prepping for primer.It being Labor Day weekend I figure why not start now,so here it starts.
Remove the tailstock first as a confidence builder,took it completely apart then into the sandblasting cabinet to remove the layers of paint.That went pretty well but getting a closer look at the chrome hand wheel and levers I have to say they are not in the best shape.I sure would like to have these re-chrome but I don't know of any and I have readed that its very expensive.Anyone knows of a place that does this to where a person is not paying a small fortune for a few small pieces?Then next remove my taper attachment,dang already found a broken part.The jib,looks like someone tried to use a screwdriver on it so a 1"piece is gone.Na I guess not earth shaking but I sure would like to find a jib and just go ahead and replace it even though I will probably never use it.Into the parts washer to remove the chips and oil dang it is sticky.Posting pics is a pain using a laptop but I want to cause for me pics help out so much in explaining what I really can't put into words.Guys so far its going good so for today that's it just going to get what I've done so far ready for paint.Any suggestions or thought's please share----kroll


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## ch2co

You know, someone with a lathe, could probably polish up those hand wheels. ;^)   Chroming has gotten soo expensive due to the whole hazardous waste thing. You might be able to find someone that has a large chroming order and tag along with his parts.  Bumper shops are almost non existent. Have you noticed that you don't find real chrome on cars these days? Its all plastic! Maybe find a restoration shop and see if you can squeeze your order in, otherwise just buff polish the outer ring, and paint the innards. 
These are just the musings of an old man, who knows what the past was like, and how much nicer it was in the days of yore. I love the idea of watching you try to take pictures of parts with the selfie camera on your laptop! Best of luck on the restoration and above all enjoy doing it. Keep us informed.

Chuck the grumpy old guy


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## Kroll

Thanks Chuck,na no selfie camera here just my 10yr old digital.Anyway to my problem and its early in the game,I started on the QCGB by draining the oil.First thing I notice there are two drain plugs which I remove both,just alittle oil out of the first plug then a lot on the side with the site glass.Guessing that on the right side how do you tell the oil level which I notice in my manual that there is a small plug for oil and on the left side there is a big plug.Well I got most of the gears out but for the life of me I can't figure out how to remove tumbler shifter arm so that I can clean up and remove the rest of the gears.Any ideals on this,I have made more progress than what I though today has been a good day.So maybe tomorrow I will have enough parts seat out to do a little painting
Here's couple pics of my mess and the arm that I need to remove,thanks for the help---kroll
Sorry,pics did not go as plan


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## Kennlindeman

The arm is connected to the shaft with a spline. Once the arms is off the shaft can move to the inside to be removed. The inside shaft has to come out with its bushes. Remove the lock screws for the bushes and remove the shaft with bushes to the left.


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## Kroll

Update Well I should have waited,the arm had lots of crud on it and I never seen the spline.I drove a wedge in the split of the arm where the bolt was and I tap on it to hard.I now have three pieces,I just don't think the best welder can repair this due to where it has broken.My plan was to get the lathe down to where I was in a position to clean the bed by labor day but for now just going to clean up the area.Depression has set in for now,raining on my parade all the other sayings


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## Kennlindeman

Do you want the manual?


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## rrjohnso2000

No need to feel too down. You have learned a great deal of what not to do. That is very good information. 

Now it's time to solve the problem, that's the fun part. Good luck!


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## Kroll

Yes sir,I would like the manual and thank you for offering.
Well I'm a little over it,went back out and finish removing the gears and remove the apron.Lifted the spindle head off and found an abandon rats nest.But still shaking my head,what a dip I am.


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## Kroll

Here's what it looks like,but a member is looking at the pics to see if it can be repaired.Fingers cross


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## ch2co

We've all made those Dooh! mistakes. Some a lot bigger than yours, don't kick yourself.  Life is a learning experience. Just go out and get a Bridgeport milling machine and whittle you out a new one! ;^) but seriously, this looks repairable, perhaps not within your original timeline, but how many times do timelines actually end up working. I'm probably at about 15% or so, the rest take a LOT longer than planned, just ask my wife about the upstairs bathroom. Relax, no life threatening problem, and best of luck.

Chuck the grumpy old guy


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## Kiwi

Kroll said:


> Here's what it looks like,but a member is looking at the pics to see if it can be repaired.Fingers cross


 firstly try and locate a new/ second hand part  also it's a Colchester, it's not a high load item  and it's British made, The chances are it will braze well. That would be my second option next would be make a new one  getting around the splines would be the difficult part perhaps a keyway and a clamp arrangement
Try Simon at Nobilla Machine Tools ltd    www.nobilla.co.uk   They are expensive they quoted me 175 pounds for a half nut + shipping  if gold was any good as a machine part it would be cheeper to cast it in that so brazeing is a good option failing that epoxy it together and getting it cast


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## Kroll

Dang,I was wanting to replace the 1/2nuts there is a little play.Thats 195.00us dollars???


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## Brain Coral

Hello Kroll,

A friend of mine has some parts for the same  lathe. He is loathe to let any of the parts go, in case his lathe needs something, but the part that you broke might be something that he has and would "part" with... pun intended... 

I'll contact him and let you know.

Brian


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## wa5cab

One question - I don't see any splines in the broken part.  Only what as best I can tell what looks like a drilled and tapped half-hole.


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## Kiwi

Sorry my mistake can't see any splines  in  the photo either  a senior moment that will make it easier to reproduce


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## Kroll

I'm off today,so I done alittle more spraying parts with primer.So I am making some progress,the weather man told me that this weekend was going to be cooler so when that happens I will roll out the lathe bed to do some degreasing.Maybe on Sunday spray it with some primer,well I guy can dream.


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## Kroll

Happy Saturday morning guys,well the humidity has drop some so it just feels like is cooler outside so I though I would start the day by degreasing the bed.I like using this degreaser made by Zep,it works fantastic and will remove most of the paint.Most of the time I mix it half/half but for this bed I use it full strength.There is a before/after pic of the first go round degreasing.Guys on the end of the bed I did not know there was a badge there and for some reason someone punch a hole in it.(can this be purchase from clausing) As heavy as this bed is going to use the hoist to flip it over to also do the bottom side.Any suggestions or comments??????Thanks for looking


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## Kroll

Afternoon somebody,its noon time here and still have aways to go.What took up some time was getting the lathe in position.What I call "Flipping the lathe Redneck way" here's couple pics just for some entertainment


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## wa5cab

Well, you're making progress.

And I don't know whether Clausing still has any nameplates or not.  You'll just have to call and ask.


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## Kroll

Good morning guys,well this past week I spent the time applying alittle bondo to the bed.Each afternoon after work I would sand the bondo then apply alittle more.I know,not only am I trying to make it one of those pretty boy lathes but a working lathe as well.Yes it is taking longer to do so but I'm not in no hurry,doing the bondo has taken me a week longer but time well spent.Just acouple more pics for some entertainment,enjoy and any comments,ideals or suggestions please post.


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## Kroll

Good news about my broken tumbler arm,it is being repaired.I am one happy camper,pics and links to come


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## Kroll

Good afternoon guys,well finally cooler weather has come to the south part of Texas and I am so glad.It puts me in the working mood,so yesterday and today I finish the painting of the lathe bed and mounted it to the cabinet.Dang is this thing heavy,alot more than my 12" Sears Atlas.Next week I will start on the head stock but just an inspection,and a clean up then some paint.I was told that all is good on the lathe when I purchase it so I have no reason not to believe.Maybe next weekend I will be posting so pice of the head stock if all goes well.Thanks for looking and enjoy


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## Kroll

Good afternoon guys,have very good news about my tumbler arm.But first thanks to Brain Coral aka Brian for putting me in contact with Mec-Elecpro.Not only did he make the repairs but tested the weld just to make sure it holds and he posted the repairs on Youtube.For your entertainment purpose is a link to it 



 Thanks for following me on the repairs of my lathe and seeing first hand what a wonderful person Mec-Elecpro is.


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## adam3999

After reading page 1, I browsed ebay.co.uk for you to see if there was a replacement tumbler handle... no such luck, BUT, good to see you got this repaired already!

PS, if it's still apart, do you mind posting a photo of your X-axis cross slide leadscrew and nut?  Mine is 10tpi giving me a .200" direct-reading dial.  My leadscrew nut is definitely not factory, just curious if the screw itself is.  Thanks!


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## Kroll

Adam I will do that,give me some time and I will get it posted


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## Kroll

Guys look what show up in the mail today,does this look fantastic or what.Thanks to Mec-Elecpro I am now back in business,guys I can't even see a seam or feel one.It is perfect,guys he did this for the fun of it and just to help out.For a while my back was against the wall,I was at a loss,so thanks to him and Brain Coral for putting me in contact with him.----kroll


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## Kiwi

Adam Not sure as whether or not you mean the main lead screw half nut or the saddle cross slide I can post some photos of the main lead screw and half nut if that would help


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## adam3999

Saddle cross-slide (X axis) and half nut.  Thanks!


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## Kroll

Here's a pic of my half nut and as you can see its alittle on the used side,well used.If you should find a source keep me in mind.Haven't got to the cross slide yet.


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## Kroll

Good afternoon guys,well I have made some progress thanks to a fantastic man up in Canada who repair my tumbler arm.I just about finish up the gear box,but all that is left on it is the leadscrew.I put the cover on it just to help keep dust out till its time to install the leadscrew.Its going very slow but I would not have it any other way,my mistakes are less.Thanks for looking-----kroll


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## ChandlerW

I emailed the seller about something else and he said that he would ship to the US. The part I asked about was $15 shipping, which was not bad.
Even though the listing says no shipping to the US, he said he would for the item I wanted.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COLCHESTE...677409?hash=item51d539ab61:g:ACkAAOSwKrhVcKUQ


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## Kroll

Thanks neighbor for the heads up,yep my half nut has some ware to it.What's your game plan for your lathe?


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## Kroll

Afternoon guys,well I have finally started taking the spindle head apart which I was not planning on that but really had no choice.In doing so I have hit a snag with alittle bit of a setback.I have destroyed one of my roller bearings for the reverse shaft.Taking all the shafts out I found roller bearings on each one but on the reverse shaft which was at the bottom of the spindle head was a small pin that  I just did not see it cause it was up in the housing.My manual did not show any roller bearing but they were easy to see and take out.A fellow sent me a manual that contain the bearings w/parts numbers and it also showed the very small pin that took out the roller bearing.Guys the pin was on the bottom which I never rotated the shaft,if I would have I would remove it.But it being on the bottome,I took a brass punch and started to drive the reverse shaft and reverse housing out of the spindle head.In which I stop for a minute to look at it cause the housing was coming out more than what the shaft was coming out of the housing if that makes sense.Anyway after getting the housing out along with the shaft and a set of roller bearings is when I notice that the needle bearings were coming out.Thanks to Richard who sent me a manual that contain all the roller bearings,parts numbers and size I can locate them from a bearing company.I price one at Clausing which I guess was not to bad at 23.00 ea then at another place price at 7.00ea.So thanks to me not paying attention,I am going to come up with a list and try to replace all the roller bearings in the headstock of this 1965 lathe.Guys the reason I went alittle into detail so that someone will not make the same mistake that I did.In one of the pics you can see the harden pin which is about 1/8 sticking out.So till I order the bearing I am working on the spindle head using alittle bondo to smooth it out some cause of someone back in 1965 took and angle grinder when crazy on the headstock.Enjoy the pics and thanks for looking,its just a speed bump on my restoration project


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## Kroll

Good afternoon guys,well its been awhile since my last update.Over the last few weeks I have been trying to track down roller bearings,decide if I really want to replace the roller bearings(not the spindle) which they look good but they are 1965.And try to find some flange type bronze bushings which I have not found any with a 9/16 ID x 13/16 OD so making some will be new to me.But this weekend I just concentrated on doing the electrical and doing it correctly which I won't know till I give it a try.All I have left on it is putting on a pigtail for 3 phase and plugging into the home 
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 made rotary phase converter.Dang I hope this works,I bet I made a dozen or so trips to HD and to the hardware store just to get to this point.I went alittle cheap on the electrical buying the plastic conduit and plastic fittings.My little shop is all residential so no fork lifts,no one but me so it should be safe.Anyway maybe Monday or so I will pick up some material for the pigtail and just want to try out the motor and the different speeds.I have no ideal if this thing has work in the past other than I was told it was a working lathe.Guys here just afew pics of the lathe so far,and if all goes well maybe some more for next weekend.I'm off the week of Thanksgiving so I hope to really make some progress,if all goes well.This has been one challenge after another,here a link to my problems been dealing with http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/operating-lever-on-colchester-roundhead.39854/
Guys before I exit I want to give Kiwi and Chandler a big thank you,I was loss trying to figure out the linkage on this lathe and the electrical.Without their input taking the time to post pics in another post that I started about the linkage/brake I would not have been able to get to this point so thanks to them and other members who have been helping along the way.Thanks guys and enjoy the pics----kroll


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## Kroll

Good morning,hope all staying dry/warm.Well yesterday was a good day for me.I think I finally finish(not completely) getting my apron back together without left over parts.(amazing) well I do have couple bushing to replace which I did order them.9/16 ID x 11/16 OD.I still have the wormbox to tidy up installing part #7649 which does not show up in the parts list.But it has something to do with power feed.I just went ahead and put it all together to remove some more of the loose parts laying around.I will have to take some of it back apart when other bushing come in.Anyway I am also close to applying power to the motor for the first time,maybe this week if my cord cap come in.Guys thanks for looking and if you spot something that don't look right or please offer some advice,please do thanks for looking


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## hermetic

Hi Kroll, your lathe is the Mk 1-1/2, it has the early headstock with the later apron, single contol for sliding/surfacing. My Colchester Student is the earlier apron with two slots for sliding surfacing. My my she is looking GOOD! She will not let you down, they are excellent workhorses.


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## Kroll

Thank you hermetic,I really did not know what I have.I been told that its possible a student,but now I know what to look for when it comes to parts.Thank you for that information and the kind words


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## hermetic

Hi Kroll, mine is a student, yours is a longer bed, so it will probably be a "Master" see www.lathes.co.uk/colchester for masses of info.
Phil


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## Kroll

Good afternoon,finally it has cool down alittle to where a person needs a sweat shirt.Over last few days I have been working on getting the spindle head back together.Like some of the other sections I have had to take it back apart to put on other parts but I am getting better at it.And I have also started taking the saddle apart and never notice that this saddle has a push button oil pump which send oil over to the channel for the ways.Which when I first took it apart it was nasty so I am hoping that the pump works but not much to it.As you know I had order an oil seal from Clausing(25.00) which the old one was all beat up,why I just don't know,well till I started putting the shaft back together.Looking at the pics on the end of the shaft is a pin that help keeps the gear from spinning.It can't come out but it can move into the oil seal which is what beat up the oil seal.(See pic of the old seal)So I need to figure out how that should work.The pin that is in there now is made of brass and not a steel dowel so maybe that needs to be change.If you have any information on this pin please let me know.Here's afew pics of what I have been working on just to give us members something to look at besides reading.Thanks guys for answering all my other questions which has been a very big help---kroll


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## adam3999

Kroll, that is a sacrificial pin intended to break if you do something silly like power feed the carriage into the chuck.  Some joker replaced mine with a hardened pin at one point, and it is likely what helped take 7 teeth out of a very hard to replace cross-slide wormwheel.  Since you have a Mk 1.5, you should also have another safety mechanism built into the power feed rod where it meets the gearbox.  There are two spring loaded bearing balls riding inside a collar that acts as a clutch.  I would inspect it to ensure the two balls can move freely, and that the hole they are recessed into has not become egg shaped.  Mine was, and I ended up drilling it out from 1/4" to 9/32".  I have 248 balls of the package of 250 left if you need some =).

BTW, do you by chance have a photo of the adjustment block under the left side of the headstock?  This is the part that accepts two jacking cap screws used to align the headstock to the ways.  Thanks.


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## Kroll

Dang,I am so glad that you reply to my question.I had no ideal and I would have replace it with a steel dowel,I will have to take alook at the power feed.Its all apart for now but I will have to check it out,had no ideal about the safety feature.248 balls,I was going to order some O-rings but did not need a hundred of them.Adam what is it about my lathe that makes it the MK 1.5,I have no ideal what I have I just thought it was a student?
Adam thank you so much for letting me know,dang that was a close call for me.


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## adam3999

Kroll, have a look at Tony's site.  The 1st photo is of a Mk1 and the second photo is a Mk2.  The last photo appears to be your same model, a Mk 1.5, with the old round head style but but newer safety carriage.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/colchester/page2.html


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## Kroll

Good afternoon guys,well its been awhile since my last post on any kind of progress which is very slow.Mainly due to having to locating some parts,making some parts,ordering some parts.It has been going very slow,due to other commitments.But I do get to work on it ever so often,I finally got my apron installed and I think I did it right.The cross slide is just setting on top,just for the pic till I make my next move.Now few days ago I did fire up the motor and switch speeds,so that works but no belts.Taking baby steps right now,thanks for looking.I am trying to make the pics smaller


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## Kroll

Guys I forgot to ask,to the right of where the dial goes is my push button oil pump for the cross slide.Before setting the cross slide on I would push the pump button and only alittle oil will come out but it shoots up couple inchs.Its just squirts only not a flow,it does work but should it squirt out a flow of oil?It is pretty neat,I like it


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## ChandlerW

Any chance I can see a picture of the cross slide screw and the pinion?


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## Kroll

Yes sir,I will take some pics this afternoon


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## Kroll

Guys Chandler ask if I could post some pics and while doing so I though I would ask the question why the cross slide nut is split?


View attachment 118688


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## hermetic

It is to adjust the backlash, there should be an allen screw or two which pull the two halves of the nut slightly closer together , so thyat you can adjust out the wear. Mine does not have one because I have the Mk1 saddle and apron.


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## hermetic

She is looking very good indeed!
Phil


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## Kroll

Thanks Phil,I just could not figure out what it was for.I believe that I have the MK 1.5 which is what I been told.


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## hermetic

Mk1.5, that is correct, it is a mk1 but uses the "safety saddle" also used on the Mk2.


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## Kroll

Phil I finally remember to check my crosslide nut and it has two carter keys but no allen screws.As I go through my lathe some things has been change due to previous owners,so I don't know what is right/wrong


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## hermetic

can you post up a picture, I googled "carter keys" we in the UK call them "woodruff keys" and I am confused. ("nothing new there" they all shouted!)


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## Kroll

Yes,sir I can.My t-nut should be showing up today I hope


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## hermetic

Ah right, see what you mean, in the UK we call them split pins. I have no idea how that nut works, the ones I have seen are either split part way through with an adjustment screw that closes the split, or in two halves with two screws holding them together and providing the adjustment. I will have to pass you over to Colchester Mk 1.5 experts whilst I go and look in my manual, be right back!
Phil


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## hermetic

Well I can see how it works.............sort of, but how to adjust it? The wedge appears to force or at least hold the two threaded bronze pieces apart, but there appears to be nothing to hold the wedge down. I see the shoulders that bear on the split pins to stop the wedge dropping out. But unless the sides of the wedge have serrations like step block clamps for milling, I don't know how you would go about adjusting it. I am msytified.  I would take it to pieces, but then I do that with everything, and somtimes even get some of it back together AND working!  I have checked both my Colchester Mk1/ 1.5 books and the 1800 and there is no nut of this type shown in the spares section, the 1800 one is sort of similar, but uses a split nut with a top wedge and adjusting scres. You could take one of the split pins out and see if there is a thread in the hole, Anyone else got any ideas?
Phil


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## Techie1961

It looks like the wedge is displaced down into the gap of the two nuts by something above it on the slide like an adjusting screw of some sort. I would like to see the piece that it couples up to. I suspect that the cotter pins are there to hold it together for assembly and possibly keeps the nut that moves apart from rotating. They might deform as the nut moves away from the fixed portion.


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## hermetic

Yes Techie, I reckon you have got it, an adjusting screw in the cross slide which fits into the recess in the wedge and pushes it down, and would of course hold it down!
Phil


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## Kroll

Guys quick question,any knows what size belts the 13" takes?


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## hermetic

Easy answer, unfortunately, no!
Phil


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## Kroll

Good afternoon guys,well after reading 1961 post and Phil concur with 1961 got me thinking about what was said and a  light went off.So I went looking at couple different manuals that I had down loaded but nothing.So awhile back I order a manual from Tony in the UK which I keep it in the house only,well I be in the manual is a good drawing of the parts which includes just what 1961 was saying but it don't show the split pins but it shows the screw.As 1961 saying the split pins is what allows the small half that kinda floats as the screw is adjusted.The larger piece is held in place with a bolt that goes through the slide.That bolt also has a oil hole that allows the cross slide nut and screw to get oil.So thanks to the help here,I now understand.Thanks guys


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## Kroll

Well guys,I have made alittle progress on the apron and saddle and the cross slide,such as install it on the lathe.I am going to call this part of my journey finish,and I had no parts left over.Doing the taper attachment took alittle extra time cause had it going the wrong way.Everything slides so smooth with no wiggle,yep I know its not shiny but thats OK.Still waiting on my bushings for both shafts thats for the tail end.Thanks for looking


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## Techie1961

Great feeling huh. Nice to see if back together. Are you missing the handles for the wheels of the cross slide and auxiliary slide?


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## Kroll

Yes sir,they were pretty bad which I had to cut one of them off then grind flush.I may try to drill it out so that my first  project would be to make a set of matching handles


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## Techie1961

One of my handles broke off when the lathe was moved about 3 years ago. I found it very difficult to use without it and replaced it as soon as I put the lathe back into service. Do you still have the old handle? I drilled out the end and put a split pin in to it and drove it back in.


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## hermetic

hi Kroll, just looking at the pics of the cross slide, i can see the bolt that fixes the cross slide nut to the casting, but not the adjuster thar pushes the wedge down? Can you take a pic of the top of the cross slide with the compound slide off?
phil


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## Kroll

I do have the one handle but it looks like the previous owner also tried to repair it but done more damage than good.
Phil I did pull it back out before I put the taper attachment back on just so I could see if I needed to adjust it.There is a small hole but it does not go all the way through to the screw and it was not threaded.On top of the cross slide there is not a hole at all to make that fine adjustment.I was wondering if maybe when you turn the screw either way that the two pieces expand or contract against the wedge piece which will tighten it I think.I may ask the question over on PM to see if someone has a better manual.Finding the hole that should have a screw in it per my manual from Tony got me thinking about some of the other problems that I found that did not look right.When I started putting this lathe back together after a good cleaning I found some of the bushings the oil holes were not drill all the way through so those bushing I don't see how they ever got oil.


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## Kroll

Phil here is a pic,the bolt head that has the oil hole is what is bolted to the screw nut.The small end of the wedge is towards the taper attachment,the closes screw on top is off to one side.With that  screw remove I can see the cross slide screw,I don't know what that hole is for and some of the others that you see a setscrew installed .


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## Techie1961

Some of the threaded holes at the end of the cross slide are probably for the rear mounted tool holder. In this photo of mine with all of the attachments on it that I have, you can it at the back end.


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## Kroll

Well my new bushing show up today,but I think there is a problem.Ones in the plastic are new,others are the originals, yep I check just to make sure I order the correct ones.
Well I be 1961,I see now what those holes are for.I was thinking that maybe the previous owner did some modifying


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## hermetic

Hi Kroll and Techie, I am trying to see an adjustment screw that pushes the wedge down, and to my way of thinking, it should be just to the rear of the large bolt with the lubricator that holds the nut to the cross slide. I can't see one on either picture of the cross slides. Have I got it wrong on how the wedge is adjusted? I am interested because I have two of these nuts to make, and I am thinking of making them to this design.
Phil


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## Kroll

Guys I have ask the same question over on PM and the results are bout the same.How to adjust it,is the big question as of now still a question without answer.Really wanting to know or if this is the only lathe out there like this.If someone at the factory forgot to finish,guessing that the wedge should stay in the same place.But if there was a screw what would it push against to allow it to move either up/down.Phil here a link to my post on PM http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...lchester-cross-slide-screw-nut-adjust-314740/


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## Kroll

Good morning well while watching the news I pull out my manual and look at the diagram again.Now I kinda understand how it should be installed and the openings that should be there to access the adjustments.My slide does not have the small openings and the screw nut does not have an adjustment if its original to the lathe.Though I would post this pic so that others could see if their cross slide has a hole to adjust their cross slide nut.


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## Kroll

Guys giving it some though I think that part #8630 the wedge the hole should not be tap but just a spot for the extended point of the setscrew will fit into.I think that the cross slide should have a tap hole that the setscrew will thread into and push down on the wedge #8630 or loosen up to allow the wedge raise up that will allow both halfs of the screw nut to come closer together.Does this make sense???


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## Techie1961

Yes, that makes sense and is what I had envisioned it would do. I suppose it's possible that the slide is from an earlier version of the lathe. I don't recall what the wedge looks like and more photos would be good to see. If the wedge is perpendicular on one side and angled on the side that is in contact with the movable portion, that would confirm your observation. An indent would be a bad idea if the wedge is tapered on both sides since the center of the indent would move off the center of the adjusting screw.

Edit: I just looked at the past photos and it is perpendicular on the fixed face portion.


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## Kroll

Yes sir it is only taper on one side,I wish I would have taken more photo's of it before installing it.I guess that having the Carter keys or split keys holding it together  allowing it to expand and contract when adjusted.I agree,I bet your right that the cross slide has been change out.In all I think the mystery has been solved,Phil help this is helpful to you.Its been very helpful to me thanks to the membership


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## hermetic

Thanks for that Kroll, it all makes sense now, could not understand why there was no adjustment hole in the top of the cross slide, I think the nut is from a later model, or even a different machine using the same thread. There are various different types of adjustable cross slide nut, and I even sat down and designed an automatic self adjusting one once, only to find someone else had beaten me to it! That design is a new one on me, but  Tyrone said he had seen it before, and he is a lot more experienced than I am! He also mentioned the problem with wear in the middle of the thread (my student has some), but I got a new nut made by a local engineer (non adjustable), and it has virtually eliminated the backlash I had, but you can tell it is slightly looser in the middle of the slide travel. I have to make one for a Raglan milling machine table feed, and I think I will use Sir John Stevensons method of boring out the old thread and locktighting in a new one!
Phil


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## Techie1961

I have a theory. The cross slide is the original for the lathe and the nut had worn out. They either replaced it with the wrong one or it was an upgrade from Colchester that wasn't installed correctly to accommodate the adjustable new nut.


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## hermetic

sounds highly possible!


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## Kiwi

I had a similar problem with my lead screw half nut when I bought the lathe the lead screw turned but the carriage Didn't advance, when the handle was engaged thinking the halfnut was stuffed I just went about finding a replacement half nut on finding the price I decided to remove it to see if I can make a new one on the Myford. Well the half nut proved to be for another model lathe, the nut itself is in good nick but the drive pin that sits in the scroll is in the wrong position. A job came in it all had to go back together and to solve the problem the lower lever stop was removed the lever now has a large amount of travel but have the feel of it now and don't bring it all the way up when threading
So pull it down and take a look


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## Colchester lathe man

wa5cab said:


> Well, you're making progress.
> 
> And I don't know whether Clausing still has any nameplates or not.  You'll just have to call and ask.


Hi, I am Frank with FDK 3 Company. I have new and used parts for Clausing Colchester roundhead and squared head lathes.

You can call me at  713-202-3551. I have alot of parts. I  do have a used nameplate for your machine. I can send you a picture of it.

Frank
The Colchester lathe man


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## Kroll

Good morning guys,thank you Frank(saving your #) been awhile since my last post haven't had hardly any extra time.So its just been hr here hr there kinda restoration.Put I have to say that since I have finish up installing the bushings for lead screw and power feed I am so close that I can taste success.So I though I would post a pic of the lathe in its new home.As far as I know,all that's left is finding the oil and figure out how to adjust the limit switch where I guess it rides on that square head bolt on the lever.Anyway sorry bout leaving my thread hanging.Oh I did fire up the motor without belts,tried out the high/low and forward/rev


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## Kroll




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## Techie1961

A thing of beauty! It looks great and can't wait to see some more detail shots and hopefully a video of it running.


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## hermetic

Sweet! I intend to give mine the once over when I get it into the new machine shop "area"
Phil


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## Kroll

Thanks guys,found some 68 at Tractor Supply so I put it in today and install the lever badge with stainless steel drive screws.Working on the QCGB badge today while doing a clean up,paint repair a HF 3 in 1 shears,brake,roller machines for a very good person.Since I am having a long weekend Yahoooooo----kroll


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## ChandlerW

Oh yeah. beautiful lathe. Inspires me to work on mine.


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## Kroll

Afternoon guys,well I kinda hit a snag today so taking alittle break from the lathe. Started working on another project for someone else since the snag is couple oil leaks in the spindle head. 
What I did was started up the lathe and was taking it through the gears in low speed but I notice oil coming from behind the belt pulley which that is shaft B.I remember the o-ring which I was not sure if it stayed in place while installing that part the o-ring is on.Which was very tight,and on shaft A spindle side oil was coming from what called second shaft bearing which is also and o-ring leak.I pick up these o-rings from Ace which they look the same but maybe the OD of the o-ring  was different.Guessing that while installing that part tapping it in the o-ring rolled out the groove which is very easy to do or it just cut the o-ring in to.Anyway I switch to the lowest speed in high and notice a tapping noise.So I took the cover off the head just to look,temptation is to start it up and watch but I may have oil all over my face.Anyway I know what needs to be done but any thoughts on those o-rings like a source?Taking a lathe break----kroll


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## wa5cab

If you know the Industry number (AKA Dash Number), you can get them from about a bzillion places.  In your application, there would be no reason to use any material other than Buna-N pr Neoprene.  An easy place to find a list of the Dash Numbers is McMaster.  Search on O-ring and click on the first choice on the Type list that comes up.  Their list only goes up to 1/4" material diameter but that should cover anything used on any lathe anyone here could afford the space to keep.


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## Kroll

Guys I forgot to say that while its running its a steady flow,but when off it don't leak.Thanks Robert,I will need to figure out what I need.You not kidding about bzillion o-rings,while looking I see they have round and square o-rings.
Edit:I be,I found one of the old o-rings.It looks flat on top but that may be due to age.So how do I figure the size and put it into dash #'s?Its about 1" dia,maybe 32rd thick,just guessing


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## wa5cab

The best way is to measure the diameter and groove width of the shaft.  Of course, that requires at least partially removing the shaft from the gearbox.  

If you can't do that, first determine whether the machine is inch or metric.  Then look at the appropriate tables noting that they are sorted by material diameter.  Determine what the nominal material diameter of the old one is.  Note that they only come in certain diameters, so determining which yours is should be simple.  The tables give both nominal diameters and actual..  Then find a cylinder (a socket set may supply one) that the O-ring just fits without stretching.  Measure the OD of the O-ring while on the cylinder and pick the nearest diameter from the section of the table for your material diameter.  The flat on the OD of your old one is probably due to wear, so the original OD was probably slightly larger.  The actual ID of the O-ring should be a few thou smaller than the ID of the groove so that it is a snug fit and doesn't have to bunch up during assembly.

Parker sells rubber lubricant in small tubes.  This will aid in assembly.  McMaster won't call it Parker but whatever they have will work.


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## Techie1961

Any updates? Would love to know how it's coming along.


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## Kroll

Na, not since I discover that I have couple oil leaks to fix.I did run it alittle while in low speed it runs quite,but took it up few notches and I could hear a peaking noise coming from the head.Which that may be normal,or it may not be but will check that out once I figure out the o-rings.But from that point and for next couple weeks I am working on a bender/shear doing the clean up,primer and paint etc for a very good person which is what is allowing me to invest into my bad habits such as this lathe.So its on hold for a couple weeks or when I hit a stopping point like waiting on some parts.
Techie were you going to go through your lathe,doing a cleaning?


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## Kroll

Guys I am one happy man,today I discovered the reason why I was leaking oil.Watch the video and I will point out what I forgot to put back in.And on the back side behind the pulley is another shaft plug which I also forgot to install a set screw which was also leaking oil.On the first video it sounds noisy but its not.Sec video I speed up the rpm there is a sound that maybe is coming from the belts which is coated with the leaking oil.So I believe the oil leaks are fix but want to run it some more just to be sure.Any thoughts?Thanks guys----kroll
Edit: Have to wait till I figure out how to post a video


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## Holt

Hi there, I am totally new to this site, only signing up today, an seeing your restauration for the first time, it just looks beautiful.
I have the big brother or sister if you prefer, the Colchester Triumph from 1958, that I restored, but didn't paint, which I regret seeing yours.
These lathes have a history of noisy heads if the belts isn't  exactly the same length, you could try removing all but one belt to see if the noise disappears.


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## Kroll

Thank you Holt,I hate to say it but glad to hear that.Never heard one before so this was my first time,didn't know if the noise was normal.
May I say *WELCOME! Fan*tastic people here.If you get a chance please post some pics,paint/no paint their all good---kroll


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## Holt

I might just do that, I have a lot of pictures from the restoration and some upgrades I have made to it, some of the pics have been shown on other fora, and some have not. I have made my own QCTP, home made DRO from TouchDRO software, and I have a set of 5C collets that needs an adapter and drawbar I will be making as well.
Can I use pics from Photobucket, or do I have to upload them to this site? I will of course be making my own thread with all this stuff.


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## Holt

Just wanted to show what you have coming, this is the lathe when I saw it the first time.


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## wa5cab

Holt,

It's probably better to upload them here for several reasons.  Just be sure to resize to around 200 KB first.  Xenforo has no re-sizing capability.  And also choose full size, not thumbnail.  Some people report extremely slow load times from thumbnail, for reasons we haven't been able to determine.  Plus if you load them full size, you can intersperse comments or identification for each photo.


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## Kroll

Thank you Robert,my photos are to much in the face pics.Holt that is one nice lathe,if and when you get a chance please do explain your upgrades.Love to hear your story on your restoration,also love the ideal of DRO on a lathe.I know its never to late,this lathe has been one of my biggest projects that I would love to make it better over time.


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## Str8jacket

Very nicely restored mate! Ive been quietly watching your progress as you started about the same time i did. Must admit i didnt paint mine so she isnt very pretty. I had some issues with vibrations at higher speeds. My lathe head is very quiet at all speeds but the vibration was very prominent at 1000rpm. 
I would put the best quality cogged/toothed belt you can get your hands on. After much heart ache with belt matching etc and getting more vibration from multiple belts not tracking the same i went to a single belt. 
The good thing is that a new quality single belt can easily handle the power requirements of older tech multi belt arrangements.  In the specs of my belt it is good for 10hp by itself. More than enough for any of these. Be cautious on over tensioning them too as you can easily cause failure of the input shaft bearings, or in my case the bushes someone had installed in a previous repair. 
Have fun, time to get it dirty again!


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## Kroll

Thank you for the kind words,its one of those projects that I am enjoying.But hit a snag with my input shaft,someone before me modified it by installing a bearing where the oil seal should be and they had bored it out to where the bearing would fit.Check out my other post in this section under Oil Seal.Thanks


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## Kroll

Good morning guys,well I am finally making some progress on my lathe which oil leaks have been repaired.Replace the bushing that for the gear on the swing frame then retest running it through all the speeds.While doing so I notice kinda like a hammering noise coming from the spindle head in all speeds during low gear,high gear all is perfect.So going to take the cover off,lay a piece of glass over the opening and run it to figure out what I have wrong.The problems that I have been dealing with on this lathe is in this section under Oil Seal which I kinda wanted to keep this post problem free.Just posting the process----kroll
Pics to come


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## machinst Jo

I just read the whole thread, I'm fully impressed could stop reading. I was wondering how things have gone with your lathe since April?

Sent from my HUAWEI H892L using Tapatalk


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## hermetic

could be belt noise, be careful to use matched belts, still watching with interest!
Phil


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## Kroll

Match belts is something that I need to invest in.Thanks Jo I hope that my post will help others cause others post and the responses that I receive has surly help me.Up to this point I have had to take a break because of a previous comment which is what has help me finance this lathe.Only thing that I know that I need to do is to get the head lined up with the lathe.The 4 bolts that holds the spindle head down is hard to get to and the adjustment screws which will move the head left/right is also hard to get to.During the summer it is hot a heck in my shop which I really need to get this final adjustment spot on,with sweat running down my head to my eyes its just not good.Once I get started on this final adjustment will start making some swarf, and start my projects for some of my woodworking machines.Only area that is kinda a question mark is when I was going through the speeds I could hear a tapping noise or hamming noise on the higher speeds.So I need to check that again with the clear glass looking at the gears during high speed to see if I spot a problem.Anyway thanks for asking,as soon as I get caught up,and finish my other project my plan is to go back to the lathe.


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## Unionwolf

Kroll said:


> Guys quick question,any knows what size belts the 13" takes?


A81.   4L830  if anyone is still looking hope it helps


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## Kiwi

Matched belts off the shelf  I've never had an issue with them but then not done a lot with multi belt set ups now matching old with new is not a go or belts from a different manufacturer whilst they are supposed to be the same in circumference I think the composition difference allows for a variation in stretch So buying all the same brand of belts at same time from the same supplier try and get them out of the same box  helps, there will still be a variation but will stretch out in time and any vibrations will fade in a short time  of coarse it's only relevant to the higher speeds Just my take on belts hope it helps


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## Kroll

Good afternoon guys,well today I made alittle progress in two ways.I am in the process of getting my headstock in alignment but I only have a piece of stock that after getting it chuck up there is only 4" to turn which I been told that 7" is just right so I'm short.So since its all I have on hand,I though I would just go ahead and turn an OD just for play and see if over 4" how much its out.I be dang this is fantastic,I know its metal working 101 but this lathe is so nice.The compound is nice that I can make those fine adjustments.So for the very first time using the lathe I am calling it a success,but not being familiar with Colchester I hope that the noise I hear is normal.I do want to run the lathe at all speeds and do alittle turning just to check it out before I say that its a complete success.But for now I have a smile on my face and a sigh of relief 
Oh after turning the OD over just the 4" length there is no difference,so I guess its close for now


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## uncle harry

Kroll said:


> Good afternoon guys,have very good news about my tumbler arm.But first thanks to Brain Coral aka Brian for putting me in contact with Mec-Elecpro.Not only did he make the repairs but tested the weld just to make sure it holds and he posted the repairs on Youtube.For your entertainment purpose is a link to it
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for following me on the repairs of my lathe and seeing first hand what a wonderful person Mec-Elecpro is.



Thanks for sharing the video.  It clearly parallels the instructions my dad gave us on how to weld cast.  A nice reminder of a very talented man as well.


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## Marcin

Looks very good. Great job.

Would you tell me how you set up headstock after renovation to get nice parallel seat to the carriage?


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## Marcduper

Kennlindeman said:


> Do you want the manual?


Yes, Do you still have one?

Thanks


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