# WTK Does any one make or sell spider for Pm1340 GT



## chiroone (May 16, 2019)

I just got my PM 1340 GT lathe , and in doing some thinking about it, I think I’m going to need to have a spider. I understand perfectly that I should make one, and that would be good practice, but at this time I don’t have a dividing head. I’m wondering if there is anyone that sells these, or would be willing to make one for a reasonable price?


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## davidpbest (May 16, 2019)

I didn’t have a dividing head either when I made the spider for my 1340GT.   If you decide to make rather than buy, here is a link to plans for the spider I made.   https://www.hobby-machinist.com/attachments/pm1340-spider-pdf.271966/


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## Bi11Hudson (May 16, 2019)

It seems I have misunderstood what you're looking for. The "spider" I have in mind fits inside the chuck jaws for working with short stock. I ran down the drawings for the post above. And was surprised at something so simple could be so hard. 

The one I made is so crude it looks like it won't work. But it does, well enough for what I do, anyway. Mine is three point, I'm sure a four point would be easier. Just a center finder on most any machinist's scale. The three point involved making a disposable insert to achieve a center divot. Then swing the radius to get sixths, taking every other one to mark the stock. With a four point spider, if the tips of the setscrews will make up to the stock, it can be centered. Might take some adjusting, but doable.

What  I want  is the insert for a three jaw chuck. It looks doable, but for the small sizes I need, it will be sorta flimsy. I'm still studying on how small I can get and it hold up.

Bottom line, make what you need out of a piece of pipe and some set screws. As long as the set screws meet in the middle it will do the job. When you get a dividing head, make a pretty one. If you ever do, those things are 'spensive, 
Bill Hudson​


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## davidpbest (May 17, 2019)

Bi11Hudson said:


> It seems I have misunderstood what you're looking for. The "spider" I have in mind fits inside the chuck jaws for working with short stock. I ran down the drawings for the post above. And was surprised at something so simple could be so hard.
> 
> The one I made is so crude it looks like it won't work. But it does, well enough for what I do, anyway. Mine is three point, I'm sure a four point would be easier. Just a center finder on most any machinist's scale. The three point involved making a disposable insert to achieve a center divot. Then swing the radius to get sixths, taking every other one to mark the stock. With a four point spider, if the tips of the setscrews will make up to the stock, it can be centered. Might take some adjusting, but doable.
> 
> ...


Is this what you're talking about?    https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/albums/72157688130985745


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## Bi11Hudson (May 17, 2019)

Not exactly, but it's worth looking into. I saved the link and will dig deeper when I'm awake. What I was referring to is a block that sits between the jaws. I saw it on somebody's web site, it's not original thought. The problem I have is using too large a chuck (4") for too small work. (<1/2") There's no room for an inside clearance hole. I tried to link to it, but wasn't watching what I was doing and lost my place. Oh well, I'll try again when I wake up.


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## Bamban (May 17, 2019)

Something like this?


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## davidpbest (May 17, 2019)

Do you mean a chuck stop?






						OTMT 3CS6 3 Piece Chuck Stop Set - Includes: 3 Piece Set:Includes 15, 20 and 25mm Stops - - Amazon.com
					

OTMT 3CS6 3 Piece Chuck Stop Set - Includes: 3 Piece Set:Includes 15, 20 and 25mm Stops - - Amazon.com



					www.amazon.com


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## jcp (May 17, 2019)

I, like David, thought he was talking about an outboard spindle spider.  ?????? If so, you don't need a rotary table.


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## chiroone (May 17, 2019)

Yes, I’m absolutely talking about an outboard spider to stick in the spindle. I was just trying to figure out how to make the 4 bolts that go into the spider to  be uniformly spaced  without using a dividing head. I’m supposing a flexible ruler would also work . By the way, where does everyone purchase those brass tipped socket head screws that go into the spider?

 I do see quite a few of these dividing heads on eBay, there obviously from China, was wondering if anyone can comment on the quality?






						BS-0 Precision Semi Universal Dividing Head Tailstock Spindle w/ 5'' 3 JAW CHUCK  for sale online
					

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for BS-0 Precision Semi Universal Dividing Head Tailstock Spindle w/ 5'' 3 JAW CHUCK at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



					www.ebay.com


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## dpb (May 17, 2019)

You can make the brass tipped socket screws.  Drill the end of the screw, and thread or epoxy a round head brass screw into the end.


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## darkzero (May 17, 2019)

chiroone said:


> By the way, where does everyone purchase those brass tipped socket head screws that go into the spider?



As said you can make them yourself but Mcmaster sells them. I only buy them for really small sizes. You don't need to use brass tipped screws. I use flat tipped set screws on my outboard spider.

Also as said you don't need a dividing head to make the 4 holes. Although I used a super spacer to make mine there are plenty of other ways to do it without an indexer. There are creative ways to do it like using a V block, protractor, collet block, a plain ol square, indicator, or even just eye ball it.


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## Bi11Hudson (May 17, 2019)

David, that last is what I was referring to. A "chuck stop" indeed... The size looks fine, but there's no centering hole for doing inside work. I use a Craftsman 12" with a UniMat (almost) 3" chuck for a lot of small work. It works well enough EXCEPT I have to do any inside work first and then make a mandrel to get decent concentricity. Not very precise but it works for most of my model building. Thank you for the pointer and the proper name. I may get a set for the 4" chuck just to have on hand.


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## Bamban (May 17, 2019)

Here is source for 3/8 x 24 brass tipped socket heads.

Shop Tools and Machinery at Grizzly.com








						Brass Tip Screws for Round Plate, 4 pk at Grizzly.com
					

A four pack of brass tipped screws to be used with the BE1125 Bald Eagle Aluminum Spider Plate.<p><li>Size: 3/8"-24 TPI




					www.grizzly.com


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## Bamban (May 17, 2019)

Easy button for a spider ready to bolt to a back plate or faceplate, it includes the brass tipped socket heads.

Shop Tools and Machinery at Grizzly.com








						Aluminum Spider Plate - 5" Diameter at Grizzly.com
					

Made specially for gunsmithing operations, particularly when chambering barrels, these spider plates are used so that shorter barrels can be chambered through the headstock of the lathe.  The brass tipped screws prevent damage to the barrels and allow for fine adjustments very similar to a 4-jaw...




					www.grizzly.com
				





Here is the one on my 1024


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## davidpbest (May 18, 2019)

Aww, come on - make your own:  









						Making Brass Tipped Set Screws
					

I needed some stainless steel M6 brass tipped set screws 20mm long.   McMaster does not carry brass tipped stainless M6 set screws longer than 12mm.   So I decided to make my own.




					www.flickr.com
				



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## davidpbest (May 18, 2019)

chiroone said:


> Yes, I’m absolutely talking about an outboard spider to stick in the spindle. I was just trying to figure out how to make the 4 bolts that go into the spider to  be uniformly spaced  without using a dividing head. I’m supposing a flexible ruler would also work .



Here's one way to do it without a dividing head.   I'm sure there are others.   Put your round stock in a vise clamped with a V-block.   Edge-find both sides and position the spindle over the center of the part.   Drill through the part.   Insert dowel rod/pin that's the same diameter as (or smaller than) the hole you just drilled into the part, and use the extension of the rod/pins to rest on top of the vise jaws (or parallels) when clamping a second time.   Your part is now 90-degrees orthogonal to it's original clamped position.   Find center again and drill there.   Presto !   Two cross drilled holes perpendicular to each other intersecting on the center line of the part.   Thread the holes subsequent to each drilling op, or later as you wish.


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