# Looking for recommendations on rotary tables



## ScrapMetal (Feb 11, 2013)

I'd like to add a rotary table to my little shop.  I'm thinking that something in the 10" range would be about right and since it's for a horizontal/vertical mill it should also probably be capable of being mounted in both arrangements.  

I've been keeping a watch on e-bay as I'd prefer if I could find some older high quality piece but I don't know much about the brands or what to look for/avoid.  One problem I'm having as well is that I don't want to spend more on a rotary table than I have on a lathe or a mill.  That just seems a little too much.

I've looked at some of the ChiCom models and they are priced about right and the pictures of them look good but I'm leery of what kind of quality I'd actually be getting.  This is a tool that I plan to depend on quite a bit so it would make life much simpler if I could find something that I actually could depend on.

I'd like to hear any opinions on what you guys have, want, or know. 

Thanks in advance,

-Ron


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## denny98501 (Feb 11, 2013)

My best advice is to never purchase a rotary turntable until you have lifted it off the floor a few times. 
Over the last 30 years, my 125 pound 10 inch horz/vert turntable seems to have doubled in weight each decade. 
Picking it up always makes me wonder if my back, knees or arteries are going to blow first. 
Just something to keep in mind. 
Dennis


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## GaryK (Feb 11, 2013)

denny98501 said:


> My best advice is to never purchase a rotary turntable until you have lifted it off the floor a few times.
> Over the last 30 years, my 125 pound 10 inch horz/vert turntable seems to have doubled in weight each decade.
> Picking it up always makes me wonder if my back, knees or arteries are going to blow first.
> Just something to keep in mind.
> Dennis



I second that!


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## OldMachinist (Feb 11, 2013)

Troyke, Bridgeport, Pratt & Whitney, Universal and older made in Japan Yuasa(new stuff is Chinese) are just a few of the old iron manufacturers that should serve you well. 10" is a little harder to find, some manufacturers jumped from 8" to 12". Vertex(Taiwan) is only new asian made ones that I've seen that seems to be higher quality.

Like said above thet do get heavy. I ended up putting a shop crane next to the mill to lift my 220 lb 12" Yuasa.


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## ScrapMetal (Feb 11, 2013)

Thanks for the words of advice on the weight of the thing.  That was actually one of my limiting factors on size.  I didn't want something that would be a huge pain to lug on and off.

Any thoughts on a Moore rotary table?  This one is about a three hour drive from me which seems to be about as close as they get (I hate to have to drive, but if it's worth it...).




It's an 11" and is referred to as an "ultra" precision rotary table.

-Ron


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## Ray C (Feb 11, 2013)

I've got this one.  It's 6" but does everything I want it to.  It's overseas production but the quality is fine.

http://www.wttool.com/index/page/pr...+Table+Set+(WT)&update_continue_shopping=true


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## OldMachinist (Feb 12, 2013)

I forgot about Moore in my earlier post. They are one of the best.


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## Philco (Feb 12, 2013)

I have a Moore roto table just like the one pictured. Very heavy & accurate. One of the draw backs to the one that I have is you can not disengage the table to free spin. It's kind of irritating having to hand crank 360 degrees multiple times trying to center the part. I don't have enough knowledge about roto tables to be giving to much advice on them but I believe the Moore table is a high quality table, I just wish mine had a disengaging lever.


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## ScrapMetal (May 10, 2013)

Missed out on a couple of tables but finally did end up with one.  It's a little smaller (9") than I had initially wanted but it was just too nice to pass on.
















If I end up needing something bigger for a couple of projects I have in mind I can always buy a horizontal table as they seem to go fairly cheap by comparison.

-Ron


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## Cheeseking (May 10, 2013)

Looks like you and I were looking for and found the same thing!   Unfortunately tho I had to force it into my possesion at auction (paid more than I wanted to).  I think you will be happy.  The table can freewheel by loosening the clamp bolts on the split plate in front of the handwheel.   Its on an eccentric and moves the worm off the table gear.    I would also check if theres any oil in it.   I took mine all apart to clean and check everything and It was bone dry inside.


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## Cheeseking (May 10, 2013)

Yours looks to be in real nice shape too...  Mine works smooth 100% functional but has a few "bonus" features machined in the table!


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## ScrapMetal (May 10, 2013)

Cheeseking said:


> Looks like you and I were looking for and found the same thing!   Unfortunately tho I had to force it into my possesion at auction (paid more than I wanted to).  I think you will be happy.  The table can freewheel by loosening the clamp bolts on the split plate in front of the handwheel.   Its on an eccentric and moves the worm off the table gear.    I would also check if theres any oil in it.   I took mine all apart to clean and check everything and It was bone dry inside.



Thanks for the tip on how to free up the table.  That'll come in real handy.  I bought mine at auction as well, and paid way more than I should have but it was in such nice shape... 

Right now it moves smoothly but I'll probably have to take it apart just to satisfy myself that it's all okay.

Any idea of what kind of oil should be kept in these things?

Another thing I'm wondering about, the small alignment blocks on the underside are dwarfed by the slots in my mill's table.  Is it common procedure to make larger blocks to match the slots in the table?  That would make sense to me but some times things aren't quite that straight forward. 

Thanks,

-Ron


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## OldMachinist (May 10, 2013)

Yes it is common practice to make stepped fixture keys to match your machine's slots.


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## Cheeseking (May 10, 2013)

I called Troyke about the oil and guy told me 90 or was it 75/90W gear oil.  Whatever the common wt for the stuff you get at auto parts stores etc.  I got a gallon jug at wally world for like $8 or something that will last an eternity...  I think I over filled mine since it leaked out all over via every orifice on the thing - hand wheel shaft, center shaft, table casting/table interface lube cups you name it.  Although Im starting to think that is normal because there are no seals really other than metal to metal and friction.  Possibly why the PO had it dry to avoid the mess???   For low use greasing the worm might be easier and less hassle. 

Maybe someone with more experience using one of these will chime in but in my mind the stepped fixture keys might be nice to use if you wanted to switch the same setup from horizontal to vertical or vice-versa and not lose the Y location.   Other than that I don't see the point since you need to establish X and Y regardless what slight off angle the rotab is fastened to the table at.  In the vertical mode it might also be nice to not have to indicate along the X say machining a shaft.  I wouldn't spend big $ on commercially available ones but it might be a nice project.

BTW While speaking with Troyke about the lube I had them email me the exploded parts sheet and instructions if you need them.


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## ScrapMetal (May 10, 2013)

Thanks Oldmachininst, much appreciated.

Cheeseking, I'd love to get a copy of the Troyke information if it's not too much trouble.  I think you can PM or e-mail me through this board.  If not let me know and I'll let you know where to send it.

Thanks again,

-Ron


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## Cheeseking (May 12, 2013)

Made some fixture keys for mine today.  ..





Ya know i need to double check on the way to disengage worm.  Going by memory I said loosen the hex bolts but it may be the set screw on top.   Im sure youll figure it out but didnt want to steer ya wrong.   

PM sent -  Ill email you the pdfs I have


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## ScrapMetal (May 12, 2013)

Nice job on the keys. :thumbzup:

I sent you a PM.

Thanks again,

-Ron


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