# Moving my mill



## diamond (Apr 24, 2021)

Got the old girl ready to move across country (CA -> AZ) on my flatbed trailer.   Anyone have any comments?   I'm open to suggestions on anything else I should do to her.

I do plan to wrap her up in moving blankets and wrap some stretch wrap around that to protect from road dust as best I can.

I'm also thinking about using a pair of lifting straps on the ram front/back vs. using the bolt hole on top of the ram.   I'm probably over worried but the thought of that bolt breaking is terrifying.


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## Mitch Alsup (Apr 24, 2021)

I think I would remove the handles and wheels as they get bonkered in any "moving accidents".


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## Aaron_W (Apr 24, 2021)

I'm sure you will secure it well with tie downs, but for a long move I'd think about building some supports from 2x4 and 4x4s and box it in to make sure it doesn't slide around / tip on the trailer. Maybe overkill, but with something the size and tippyness of a mill, you can't be too careful.

Agree with Mitch, I'd remove any relatively easy to remove breakables like handles. It looks like you have a DRO as well, it couldn't hurt to add some padding to ensure nothing rubs or bangs against the DRO components.

Where are you headed to in Arizona? I lived near Sierra Vista, south of Tucson / west of Tombstone for a few years in the late 90s. I liked it, but it was too dry for me I like rivers that actually have water in them.     Still have inlaws there, and it is always a fun place to visit.


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## markba633csi (Apr 24, 2021)

Looks like that powerfeed handle has been broken before- I would take it off if you can
-Mark


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## aliva (Apr 24, 2021)

I wouldn't use any blankets. If you run into rain the blankets will soak up the water and terrible things could happen.  Wrap everything  in heavy plastic or a water proof tarp .Lock the ram, bed, spindle, knee and turret. leave the handles on, your the one who's moving it, so no worries of them being banged up by someone. Strap it to the trailer with several ratchet straps in all directions. Stop after the first couple of miles to check the tension of the straps, if their going to loosen up it will be the first few miles,  after that, every 100 or so miles, or when ever you stop for a break or gas ,check tension. My mill came from Asia in and open crate, the only thing I had to do is  remove the plastic wrap, reposition the head and attach the DRO controller. It made it to me without a scratch or ding. So you should be ok from CA to AZ.


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## tjb (Apr 24, 2021)

I'm assuming you're using a dual axle trailer.  Single axle would be dangerous unless it's a super heavy duty model.

Is your trailer bumper-pull or gooseneck?  If it's bumper-pull make sure your weight is evenly distributed over the axles.  Too much weight front or back can create unevenness.  Not good at higher speeds, curvy roads, or less than optimal tires.  If your trailer is a gooseneck, you have a little more flexibility depending on the size of trailer and truck.  The gooseneck section will permit a few more options on how you strap the mill to the trailer, but you still need to be careful about balancing the load over the axles.  A few years ago, I purchased a full-size mill and transported it a couple of hundred miles with that type rig.  Totally uneventful.

Whatever your setup, strap it down securely.  And like Aliva said, a few miles out, pull over and make sure nothing has moved and is still totally secure.  And be careful.

Good luck.

Regards,
Terry


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## Ed ke6bnl (Apr 24, 2021)

Wood on the trailer floor to prevent sliding, if it is a wood floor do like the other fellow to box it in


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## diamond (Apr 24, 2021)

Thanks guys!   Any comments on lifting with straps vs the bolt hole in the ram?  I'm using a backhoe to lift and load on the trailer fwiw.

@tjb  10,000 lb flatbed.  Yeah dual axels tho sadly not a gooseneck.   My 13x40 PM lathe is going on it too but I still have the shipping pallet and crating for that.  I'll definitely be balancing the trailer.  The mill will likely sit directly between the fenders and the lathe slightly ahead of that.  I have a few tool boxes to strap on too which I can use to balance the trailer.   Gonna use a lot of straps.  I'm not too worried about banging the handles but that's a good suggestion, I'll probably take them off even if it is just to make it easier to wrap.  

@Aaron_W  We're moving to Prescott AZ.   I wanted something cooler than Chico where it's routinely in the 110's in the summer.     

I hear you guys on the blankets but I'm hoping to time the drive to avoid any rain.   I'm concerned a tarp/plastic will just rip to shreds on all the pointy bits so I need some kind of padding.  I will likely try to cover the padding with a tarp and wrap some more strapping around that.   Just in case of some kind of falling moisture does happen.   I've had that unexpectedly happen going over the Tehachapi pass.    Mostly I'm concerned about road grime/grit.  I'm driving across a lot of desert.


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## nnam (Apr 24, 2021)

To prevent sliding at the bottom, a good way is to strap the bottom down.

It would be great if someone suggest a way to damper shocks from the road.  Maybe put some kid foam mat on the bottom, then 3/4" oriented plywood at the bottom of the mill.

Other than that, strap top, bottom  and sides and check your strap after 10 minutes and once awhile.


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## jwmelvin (Apr 24, 2021)

I lifted my column from the ram bolt but the table, saddle, and head were all removed so weight was down considerably. The manual does show straps, which seem preferable.


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## rwm (Apr 24, 2021)

It is my understanding that the bolt on top of the ram is NOT for lifting the entire machine! It is only for lifting the ram off the base. 
Robert


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## nnam (Apr 24, 2021)

I stand corrected then, the bolt is not for the whole milling machine.


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## westerner (Apr 24, 2021)

I am in Parks, AZ. 1/2 way between Flagstaff and Williams on I-40. 80 miles from Prescott. Born and raised here.  This time of year, ya usually don't see rain.
That said, my Dad could break a 5 year drought by ordering concrete. I like your idea about a tarp over the blanket.

I used dedicated lifting slings fore and aft on the mill ram to move my Millright. I would do that before I trusted one eye bolt threaded into cast iron to lift a Bridgeport


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## dpb (Apr 24, 2021)

The manual for my 2300lb Acra knee mill shows lifting with straps, or the eyebolt, with straps preferred.  I’ve lifted it both ways, with zero issues.  I brought it 250 miles home strapped down on a 2 axle trailer.  Probably 6 straps total, high and low, with extra care to prevent forward movement in case of emergency braking.  Stopped after a few miles and checked it, then again when we stopped for lunch.  No problems.  Took it off the trailer with a rented gantry crane, and moved it into place with a pallet jack.


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## diamond (Apr 25, 2021)

Thanks guys.  I'll go with lifting straps from the sound of it.  I have them so why not use them.

@westerner I like Parks.   Beautiful area.  Seriously considered it in the move but Prescott (Williamson Valley actually) won out with the wife.  Have your dad order that concrete cuz we need the rain but after I get moved ok?  

My flatbed has a wood deck so I really like the idea of securing the base so it won't slide by bolting some 4x4s down around it.  A few holes in my decking but that's no big deal.   May do same thing around the lathe pallet.

My biggest concern really is the rough I-40 road conditions.   Huge potholes and bumps in the freeway.  Made a couple trips across that already and it will jar your teeth out.  I'm splitting my drive with an overnight in Bakersfield so I can drive that stretch very slow.   I'll **** off some people but better that than bouncing my mill or lathe right off the trailer.  Definitely using a lot of heavy duty strapping and checking it often.

Still tearing down the shop.  Hoping to load and get it moved by next weekend.  Besides the machines there's all the tooling etc. that I'm carefully packing.   Lots of bubble wrap!   I'll update this thread to let ya'll know how it goes.


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## Marv in Minn (Apr 25, 2021)

5/8-11 eyebolts are rated to lift 4000#   https://www.mcmaster.com/eyebolts/eyebolts-for-lifting-8/
BP mills are about 1/2 that wt.   we moved a shop with 6 Bridgeports all with the 5/8 eyebolts, no problem.


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## Billh51 (Apr 25, 2021)

_A few years ago I moved a mill about 160 miles to my home shop, which I hauled on my tandem axle trailer. I had it strapped down quite well along with it lag screwed to the bed of the trailer. I was a little worried when I got home because they loaded it with a forklift and I was using a chain fall. I wasn’t sure about the eyebolt either so I used a 6 ton come along in combination with may chain fall, which actually made it easier to balance the load. The move went well and I rolled into place on some 3/4” pipe. 
	

		
			
		

		
	



_


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## FOMOGO (Apr 25, 2021)

I think that's the cleanest Series 1 table I've seen. Did you have it resurfaced? Good luck with your move. Plenty of good advice above, so I won't reiterate. Mike


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## rwm (Apr 25, 2021)

Sounds like a lot of moves have been made safely with the eyebolt so it is certainly possible. I would be more worried about the cast iron failing than the eyebolt. I would definitely plan on redundancy with slings. 
BP manual is here: http://www.bluechipmachineshop.com/books/BP_Mill_Series1_Manual.pdf
It shows slings on page 19.
Robert


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## Winegrower (Apr 25, 2021)

when my mill was delivered the guy used the eyebolt and chain hoisted it from the hangar ceiling beam with a chain hoist.   He moved the trailer out, with the mill hanging about 18” off the concrete floor.  He looked at the chain hoist, said something like “I think you just flip this thing here...” and wham, the mill free fell down, right on its base.   Scared the heck out of us both.  No damage at all.


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## Shootymacshootface (Apr 25, 2021)

Be sure to cover up the exhaust so that the turbo doesn't spin without lubrication. 
It looks like you've got everything covered. 
Have a safe trip!


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## diamond (Apr 26, 2021)

@Shootymacshootface


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## mattthemuppet2 (Apr 26, 2021)

I'd take off anything that could rattle off (handles and the like) and I'd think hard about removing the DRO scales. Then put some doubled up cardboard on the edges and wrap the nuts out of it with cling wrap (you can buy industrial rolls of it). Then strap it up.

You'd be amazed at how destructive road vibration can be. I brought a small mill, a drill press and a 4x6 HF bandsaw on a drop deck trailer from Austin to San Antonio. Half way along I couldn't see the bandsaw in the rear mirror. Had a minor heart attack and pulled over. It was still there, just in lots of pieces with all the nuts and bolts rolling around on the floor of the trailer.


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## matthewsx (Apr 26, 2021)

I lost the gap from my lathe on the highway, then went back and found it the next day....


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## Dabbler (Apr 27, 2021)

matthewsx said:


> I lost the gap from my lathe on the highway, then went back and found it the next day....


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## Superburban (Apr 27, 2021)

If there is any doubt about the weather, I would shrink wrap (I know, stretch wrap is the correct name), the heck out of them.

Any doubt about the weight of the mill on the trailer floor, build a base on top to spread the weight across all the floor boards.

Both are easier to do before the trip, then on the side of the road during the trip.


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## Aaron_W (Apr 27, 2021)

diamond said:


> @Aaron_W  We're moving to Prescott AZ.   I wanted something cooler than Chico where it's routinely in the 110's in the summer.


Prescott is nice.



matthewsx said:


> I lost the gap from my lathe on the highway, then went back and found it the next day....



I still can't believe you were able to find it.


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## Illinoyance (Apr 28, 2021)

I moved my BP clone using a single axle drop deck trailer.  I tied it down with 2" straps, one set to the top of the ram, the second set around the base.  It didn't wiggle during an 8 mile move.  A drop deck trailer is the only way to go.


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## Shootymacshootface (Apr 28, 2021)

Illinoyance said:


> I moved my BP clone using a single axle drop deck trailer.  I tied it down with 2" straps, one set to the top of the ram, the second set around the base.  It didn't wiggle during an 8 mile move.  A drop deck trailer is the only way to go.


Here are pictures from my 60 mile move six weeks ago. It went very well.


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## Firstram (Apr 28, 2021)

That's a serious trailer!


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## diamond (May 15, 2021)

Hi guys, thought I'd update y'all on how it went.   I sure appreciate all the comments everyone gave. 

Well we made it!    No issues.   There were a few times I was pretty stressed going down I-5 in California.   Some of the construction along there has the road so bad, I thought I was sure to loose it.   But we made it just fine.

Here's the rig getting ready in my old shop.  I covered all the important areas with bubble wrap and stretch wrapped the heck out of it to hopefully keep road grit from coating surfaces, getting in my DRO scales, etc. Wasn't finished yet in this pic.   I had strapping going 3 ways on each sit up top, two ways down below.   I lag bolted the base into 4x6s to extend the width for stability and then screwed 2x4's into the trailer deck around those to help prevent any sliding.   Overkill?  Maybe.   That's my PM1340GT on there too.   Man am I so glad I kept the original crating!!!!




A stop along the way.   I carried a roll of packing tape to repair any bits of stretch wrap that came loose but I had taped it up pretty good before we left.   Only once I taped something back down.




And here they are finally in the new shop in AZ.   They're gonna sit on the trailer a bit while we move the rest of the house next couple weeks.   I've got some shop prep to do too once we're finally moved in before I put them in place.   I'm gonna have to make friends with a neighbor with a backhoe like I had back in CA to lift this thing off the trailer.     Of course I haven't powered it up, that'll be a while.   I could find something rattled or shook loose during the trip.   At least it got there still in an upright condition!


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## mattthemuppet2 (May 15, 2021)

that's a lovely size shop and well done on the move! Good thing about shrink wrapping the crap out of everything is that even if something does work its way loose, it'll still be there when you take the wrap off!


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## Ken226 (May 15, 2021)

Looks good.  Glad you got it moved safely.


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## Dabbler (May 15, 2021)

@Ken226 I wish that was a correct analysis.  A real bridgeport has between 1/2 and 5/8 of *cast iron* that the lifting eye screws into. I've measured this on mine and 3 other clones. One of my firends has measured an offshore ram tha had 1" of cast iron in the ram.

The pullout on cast iron is far less than you think.  -- but that is not the whole story.  The ram is not intended to lift the whole machine, and whoever told you that is telling you fibs.  that lifting eye is intended to lift the ram and round joint for assembly into the machine.  

I know guys have gotten away with lifting their 2000 lbs bridgeport mill with that lifting eye -- but -- it does not conform to best practices.  'best practice' is strength exceeding 4X the expected maximum load in any direction.  By not lifting on centre, it exaggerates the load on the ram, and even in a perfect lift, there isn't 8000lbs of strength in the cast iron in the ram.

it is always safer to lift from the bottom of the mill, using secondary straps to the lifting eye, or better yet, around the ram to prevent it tilting during the lift.  I have recently moved 3 BP clones using this method without any trouble, tilting or other adverse effects.

- just because you 'can' do something or you got away with something, does not make it a proper recommendation.


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## Ken226 (May 15, 2021)

Dabbler said:


> @Ken226 I wish that was a correct analysis.  A real bridgeport has between 1/2 and 5/8 of *cast iron* that the lifting eye screws into. I've measured this on mine and 3 other clones. One of my firends has measured an offshore ram tha had 1" of cast iron in the ram.
> 
> The pullout on cast iron is far less than you think.  -- but that is not the whole story.  The ram is not intended to lift the whole machine, and whoever told you that is telling you fibs.  that lifting eye is intended to lift the ram and round joint for assembly into the machine.
> 
> ...



Noone told me.  I looked it up.

I realized that some mills were different and didn't want anyone with a mill made to different standards  to have an issue.  I deleted my post a few minutes before you replied.


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## Dabbler (May 15, 2021)

Sorry if I came on too strong, but keep hearing this advice, and it just isn't a good one.

This a picture from our last move but one - it is a Hartford mill and this part weighs 1100lbs.  it is completely disassembled because it was just moved from a basement.  Note the 'crown' at the top of the mill has been wrapped twice at every vertical, and then ratcheted tight with a 4000lb ratchet strap.  During this move it was lifted 3 times using this method, re-rigged each time and it never moved.


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## Ken226 (May 15, 2021)

No worries,  you didn't come on too strong.  I don't get butthurt on the internet.

I still have all of my textbooks from when I got my degree in engineering.  It's easy for me to look up common data like that.

Of course, there's no way I can know how thick any of these manufacturers cast any given part, or by how much they may have deviated from on the cast iron mixture.  That's why I just deleted the whole thing.

Out of curiosity, I checked my Precision Mathews manual.





If they were only 5/8-11 threads,  the mill head was only 1/2" thick, and cast from beer can aluminum,  the thread pull-out force for the 5-1/2 aluminum threads in actual engagement would be 20,500 lbs.


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