# multimods for a mini mill



## silence dogood (Nov 12, 2019)

This is a series of mods for a LMS3960, but I think will work for other mills. It took me over two years to figure it out and make it work.  One thing that made it difficult was that I wanted modify the main mill as little as possible.  Except for drilling and tapping  10 holes, the mill can be put back to its original form.  Sometimes, when I was half way through a mod, had to go back so that the mill can be used for some project even including a mod.  Picture no.1  shows the completed mods on the mill.


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## Latinrascalrg1 (Nov 12, 2019)

Id like to know more about the bike sprocket and chain if you wouldn't  mind sharing?


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## silence dogood (Nov 12, 2019)

This mod has to be done before the second mod.  The two electrical boxes had to be moved.  Got some old water heater timer boxes and mounted the electronics in them.  In picture no2 all the controls are now in the front.  Instead of a tac, I made a calibrated dial so I know what the spindle speed is.  Low tech but it works well and there is plenty of room to put in a tac if I so desire. Picture no 3 shows the closed motor electronics box. Picture no4 shows the open box of the motor electronics.  I came across a couple of slow speed fans that were for incubators of chicks.  They were a close out, so got them for $3 instead of $30 each.  Picture no5 shows the fan, heater timer, and the original plastic boxes.


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## silence dogood (Nov 12, 2019)

Now we are getting to the meat of this.  Sorry Latinrascalrg 1, there is a lot here. Have to split it in several threads. I'll try to answer your question ASOP.  Found a trashed 15 speed bicycle.  Except for the peeling chrome, the sprockets were good.   The column to the mill is hollow. The extension has a tenon that fits tightly in the column about 1 and 1/2".   Makes it strong and rigid, so only 4 screws need to keep it in place.  I used the largest and smallest sprockets. Mounted them on a turned hub and mounted that on a bolt that is the axel.   The largest sprocket is 48 teeth and its chain holds the counterweight.  The smaller is 28 teeth and its chain is connected to the head.  Almost a 2 to 1 ratio.  The head weighs about 30 lbs.  I used 3 5 lbs. cast iron sash weights, 2 and 1/2 lb. barbell weight, along with assorted hardware including a stainless tube from a Kenmore washer.  The bicycle chain is new.  Not taking chances there.  I'm pleased with this, the Z axis is very even and smooth.  Looks like I got my pictures mixed up. This is picture no 7,  no 6 will be on the next thread.


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## silence dogood (Nov 12, 2019)

The next mod is another one that has to be done before the next after this.  I added a riser to the column.  This is one of two weights that came from a hospital scale.  It must be xxLxx steel. Cuts and machines really nice.  Replace the bolts with studs, put nuts both top and bottom of the flange of the column.  This will make it much easier to tram.  It adds 1and 5/8 inch to the height. Wow, does that make a difference.  Picture 6 shows the mod with the weight and the left over pieces from the other weight.


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## silence dogood (Nov 12, 2019)

Picture no8 shows how I check on how much flex in the column.  It is very crude, but it did tell me what I needed to know. When I put 10 lb. pull on the column, the x axes showed about one thousand deflection.  The y showed 1 and 1/2 thousand.  I did this before and after mounting the riser as stated in the previous thread. Surprising, it came  about the same.  Now when I add the next mod, the deflection was half. So the x went 1/2 thousand and the y went to 3/4 thousand.  
	

		
			
		

		
	





Picture no9 shows the x axes and no10 show the y axes.   I add two columns, one for x and the other for the y.  A machined rod goes through the x column. You can't see it, but it's machined squared and a bolt holds in place inside of the box.  The right end is threaded and goes through the column where the spring lift once was.  There are nuts on both sides of the column for tram adjustment.   Picture no 10 shows the y and there are two nuts for y tram adjustment.  Tramming is a joy, it takes less than 10 minutes, and I believe it is more accurate.  As you can see the x column also supports the electrical boxes.


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## silence dogood (Nov 13, 2019)

The next mod is that I came across an old tv surge protector.  Took out the tv part and put in a 20 amp toggle switch.  This is great, when I turn on the toggle, the lights and fan will turn. To run the mill, I have to turn it on separately. Also the plug to the mill is convenient, so I can do things on the mill with the lights on.   I forgot to mention. The two LED lights came from Lowes at half price, guess no one liked the green.


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## silence dogood (Nov 13, 2019)

This last is not really a mod.  This is WW AKA Wotten Walph.  This is my junkyard dog gargoyle. He scares away those wascully csgs AKA "chattering swarf gnomes".


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## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD (Nov 13, 2019)

You've been very busy. Fantastic job tricking out your mill. Thanks for taking the time and sharing. I enjoyed reading through the thread. Cheers, Mike


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## markba633csi (Nov 13, 2019)

I've seen those swarf gnomes. Leave a tray of Dykem out for them, they'll come for a drink, fall in and drown
Mark


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## MAKEITOUTOFWOOD (Nov 13, 2019)

markba633csi said:


> I've seen those swarf gnomes. Leave a tray of Dykem out for them, they'll come for a drink, fall in and drown
> Mark



They only fall for that once. After that the'll leave gnome hand and feet Dykem tracks on everything.


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