# Harbour freight 44991 mill/drill



## Hukshawn (Jan 22, 2017)

I've come into some money and I'd finally like a mill. I have that enterprise 10" lathe most of you guys remember with the threading problem (all fixed...) so, I'm good on that front. It's a big enough machine to do anything that I'd ever need.
I have scoured for a reasonably priced benchtop mill for months, $1000~$1200, notta...
I have enough to basically buy this

http://t.harborfreight.com/two-speed-variable-bench-mill-drill-machine-44991.html

 It not a harbour freight. You will notice the shocking resemblance between that and a busy bee, which is my neck of the woods...

http://www.busybeetools.com/products/milling-machine-mini-craftex-csa-cx605.html

Id really like a larger machine, but they're just not coming up used in my price range without sitting on cash till it burns a hole, and gotta keep the purchase somewhat under the radar from the warden...
So a huge old knee mill is not in my future (even tho I've seen numerous in my price range... it's just not likely to happen without a devorce... haha...)

So, the question, anyone with this model (or close)? I do hobby machining. Nothing big, so far, I've copied a few of mr petes builds for fun. I don't even have a regular need for these machines aside from enjoyment, and being the thorn in my wife's arse.
Is this a machine I should spend my money on? Should I just suck it up and keep looking? And try to build up my money stash? Will I be disappointed with how small it is? The reviews seem good, but, I need more... someone talk me into, or out of, this...

Edit. I did try to find the mill in the rate harbour freight thread... didn't come up with much

Edit edit, on third inspection, there's tons of info, lol...


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## Hukshawn (Jan 23, 2017)

Hmm... plastic gears.... can't say I like the sounds of that.


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## royesses (Jan 23, 2017)

I have the HF 4991. It needs some modifications to really be its best. A belt drive conversion and air spring kit. The belt drive does not use the plastic gears so that is not a problem. There is a lot of cleaning and adjusting to do as it comes from the factory. It is a small mil and is not going to do what a full size knee mill will do.  You might want to go to a busy bee retailer and get a good look at it. For me as a hobbyist who isn't going to do any large jobs it is fine and fun. If you buy too small you will wish you hadn't when you need to do something the little mill can't do. With any mill the cost of tooling can get out of hand. So if you want a rotary table and gear cutters and vises and 123 blocks and parallels and DRO's, etc you must add the cost to determine if it is affordable. Also collets and end mills are needed. The4991 comes with R8 arbor and drill chuck. You need R8 coletts or mill holders to do milling. 

The little machine shop has just about any accessory and tool for mini mills that you could want. Perhaps a look around thier web site would help you make a decision.

Sorry I can't advise what you should do. I can tell you I am very happy with the 4991. If I were still a working mechanic and needed to do milling for that profession I would get a full sized knee mill.

Roy


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## hman (Jan 23, 2017)

I, too have a 44991.  For many years it was my only mill.  +1 to all that Roy said about adding the air spring and belt drive mods from LMS.  It's also good to get at least a 2 axis DRO of some kind.  Cheap ones (.001" resolution) are OK, at least for me.  I personally don't see where either the mill or I can even approach .0001", so why waste the money?  As many others have pointed out, be prepared to spend about as much as the original cost of the mill on cutters,
tooling, accessories, etc.

Clean the mill up, carefully adjust the gibs, keep the mechanisms lubricated, and it will be a good little workhorse.


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## Hukshawn (Jan 23, 2017)

I'm aware the cost of tooling is ridiculous. I've been dealing with that with the lathe. That's not really the concern. I buy tooling as a need arises. I have the cheap DRO's with my lathe and can easily get a few more for this.

What is this air spring you speak of, tho? 

How long did you work with the plastic gears before you realized you needed to change it? 

I have a few end mills, and an er32 set, I'm sure I can get or make an r8 er32 holder.

Again, all my machining is hobby use. I currently cannot foresee me ever doing anything that requires a huge machine. I will likely only ever have a bench model. While the hobby is still fresh (unlike the much older woodworking hobby where I go months without turning the lights on in that shop..) all I do is make small tooling projects, copy Mr Pete, fix small parts... etc.
It's sounding like this little mill is capable of doing more that it seems.... maybe a good option?


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## Hukshawn (Jan 23, 2017)

I looked up both the air spring kit and the belt kit. 
Why the air spring tho... does the mill come with nothing? So it's just heavy to raise or lower?


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## royesses (Jan 23, 2017)

Hukshawn said:


> I looked up both the air spring kit and the belt kit.
> Why the air spring tho... does the mill come with nothing? So it's just heavy to raise or lower?



The air spring is much better at keeping the head balanced so it moves smoothly up and down. It also comes with an extended rack making for more Z axis travel.  Plus you can change the stop location or make a smaller stop bushing to gain slightly more Z axis travel. The mill comes with an arm and torsion spring assembly that is not as smooth and gets in the way of the installation of Z axis dro's. The Little machine is capable of doing most milling operations the big machines do, just a lot slower since it is not rigid enough or powerful enough to take large cuts. You work within its limitations and it is a decent machine. It does sound as though it would meet your needs. One thing is that they are easy to sell if you decide to upgrade to a bigger mill. 

Roy


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## Hukshawn (Jan 23, 2017)

I'm quite good at buying and selling tools and machinery to move bigger. 
I bought a 26 gal crappy compressor years ago for $100, had to rebuild the head. Then I changed the compressor head right out to a 1HP unit, then over the years traded/sold and bought compressors and now I have an old 60 gal Bruner 2HP, a tank of a compressor and didn't spend any more than that initial $100. Rebuilt it, and it keeps up with my wood shop (pneumatic sanders and spray guns) like a champ. 
So ya, maybe this might work out.


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## Hukshawn (Jan 27, 2017)

What's the t slot size for these units? I can't find that info.


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## royesses (Jan 27, 2017)

From LMS:
These T-slot nuts fit a 7/16" (12 mm) T-slot, and are threaded 3/8-16.

The nuts are the correct size for the Mini Mill.

They are heat treated and have a black oxide finish.

So either 12mm if you want 8mm studs or 7/16" if you want 3/8" studs


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## Hukshawn (Jan 27, 2017)

Dammit... I don't think my kit is the same.


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## royesses (Jan 28, 2017)

Hukshawn said:


> Dammit... I don't think my kit is the same.


I first bought a 1/2" kit from LMS and they fit my mini lathe. Actually tighter than the 7/16" inchers. So if you have a 1/2" kit give it a try.
Roy


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## Hukshawn (Jan 28, 2017)

Well I did it. I got one. I've got the igaging dro kit as well. What are the things that you guys did to set this thing up? How did you mount the dro? I know I have to take it all apart and clean it. What are some of the things I should look for?


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## royesses (Jan 28, 2017)

First clean it. I used odorless mineral spirits and paper towels to get the shipping grease off. Then go over every screw, nut, bolt and check/tighten. Lube everything that moves. After that make all adjustments in the manual get the gibs set as tight as possible while still allowing the table to travel easily. Adjust the handwheels to get minimum backlash. You can't get rid of all of it. Make sure to clean out the spindle taper and firmly seat the drill on its arbor. Tram the spindle and table. Run it at all speeds to make sure everything is working properly and give the bearings a chance to run in a little.

You can look at other dro installations on this forum in the mini lathe and harbor freight forums. Also many by googling. The way I did my readouts is in the photo on post # 3. The y axis scale is under the table on the left side. The x axis scale is behind the table. The Z axis is on the left side of the column. The scales have brackets and you will most likely need to make your own to mount sliding sensor portions. You will will be drilling and taping for mounting screws. I can take some photos of mine if you need them, but you may want to do it some other way. You need to take your time and think it out. You want no bind in the scales and run them parallel to the table. I'll try to find some threads for you to look at.

That's about all I can think of at the moment. Have fun. I'm sure the other members here will come up with many other suggestions. Most know more than me.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/x2-mini-mill-igauging-dro-install.24844/

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/dros-installed-on-hf-mini-mill.20561/

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/installation-of-igaging-dro-on-a-mini-mill.16794/

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/just-added-my-x-axis-dro-to-my-mini-mill.11371/

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/mini-mill-users-guide-by-littlemachineshop-com.201/

Roy


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## Hukshawn (Jan 28, 2017)

Aaaaaaaaaaaand... I stripped the plastic gears already... hahahaha....


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## francist (Jan 28, 2017)

Aw no way dude! Really? You're fast, Shawn, but sometimes too fast. 
I think you need a bigger mill.

-frank


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## Hukshawn (Jan 28, 2017)

Hahaha. No, it was an accident. I was just playing around with it with a few end mills on a block of soft steel, before I took it all apart to clean and adjust. Then I decided to try a small fly cutter. Was going fine when I lowered the Z and took another pass. I didn't lock the head and there was a bit of back lash hung up. As it was cutting it dropped that remaining back lash and jammed. I ordered a set of steel gears. I spent enough for now, I'll get the belt kit down the road. 

And yes, I would have loved a bigger mill... I got what I could afford to at least give me milling capabilities.


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## Hukshawn (Jan 29, 2017)

I suppose I shouldn't be surprised by how far out of align the base to the Z axis is... that's gonna be a pain to correct...


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## hman (Jan 29, 2017)

OK, not too nice looking ...
 ... but the apparent misalignment might be due to a crummy column mount casting.  Before you start cutting metal, do what you can to check that the face of the column is perpendicular to the Y dovetails (or parallel to the table).

That said, note that even if the face of the column is not square to the Y axis or parallel to the X, it won't have any effect on the accuracy or operation of the machine.  Consider a round column mill.  The head can rotate around the vertical axis, and does so whenever you raise or lower the head.  But once it's locked in place, as long as you can re-establish 0,0, the actual angle is immaterial.  Bridgeport mills have rotatable heads, too.


The only thing you have to worry about with your mill is the tram of the head.  The side-to-side tram is of course adjustable with that great big bolt. It'll take some care to adjust, as there may be shifting as the bolt is tightened.  Front-to-back adjustments are only possible by dismounting the column and either scraping the castings or adding shims.


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## Hukshawn (Jan 29, 2017)

I assume I can loosen those nuts and bump it back. 
Ya, for some reason, in my mind, the head moved back and forth and that column crooked would make a crooked cut... it's been a long day, brain isn't firing on all cylinders. 
Can't wait for those metal gears to show to... in 3 week... 
I guess in the mean time I'll get it all cleaned up, dro's mounted, and maybe trammed. I have a nice chunk of 5/8" thick rubber sheet ill mount the mill on to quiet it down. Did the same to my lathe and it shut it right up. Minimal vibration/noise transfer to the house.


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## Hukshawn (Jan 29, 2017)

im gonna rant for a minute... ive been thinking about this little mini mill this evening while waiting for the kiddo to fall asleep... plastic gears....... plaaaaastic gears.
let me say that again, maybe itll sound better.... plaaaaaaaaaaaastic gears.
nah man... just doesnt sound right.

its like you bought a cheap import car. standard AM/FM radio no cd, roll up crank windows, standard transmission, the junky trunk latch that wont latch in 6 months, and sheet metal body that will rust... all of which suck, but work. they do their job, even if for a limited time. but you can abuse them and they will work... but then they go and do something asinine like install a wooden engine. yes, a wooden engine. it makes just as much sense as plastic gears. i mean, there are a plethora of replacement parts and designs to eliminate the plastic gears. but no, SEVERAL different companies sell this same mill, and for what i can imagine has been for a decade or whatever, and theyve never clued in that its just no good...

everything about this lathe is cheap. the milling in the T slots looks like it was done with a potato, it looks like they dunked the whole unit into a vat of potato grease, the hand cranks are solid with no potato detail, the bolts are cheap, and its crooked...potato... BUT IT WORKS. its all metal, the electronics are even decent, but then they go and install PLASTIC GEARS.... like seriously. you could have cheaped out on ANYTHING else, and gotten away with it. but instead they installed .... plastic gears.
man, that just grinds me...

/rant


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## hman (Jan 30, 2017)

OK, rant accepted.  But as I've posted previously, I have just about the same mill.  Mine's a Harbor Freight.  I ran it for quite a while (at least a year or two) without any problems with the gears.  The main reason I bought the LMS belt drive kit was that it was supposed to be a lot quieter than the gears.  It was!  And yes, you can get metal gears to replace the plastic ... but they're noisier yet.  Under normal circumstances, the plastic gears are just fine.

You just got caught with the wrong combination of an aggressive (fly) cutter and Z axis backlash (or what's known as the infamous mimi-mill head drop).  I don't think I've ever used a fly cutter with my mini.  Never thought it had the power for that kind of cutter.

PS - I definitely agree with you about the factory grease.  My own guess at the ancient Chinese recipe for "Cosomorene" is that they boil up a bunch of used motor oil and axle grease in a 55 gallon drum, then throw in a couple of old tires to thicken it up.  Stir well to dissolve the rubber, then slather it on


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## sgisler (Jan 30, 2017)

hman said:


> .....,"Cosomorene" .....



Just greatness, thanks for the laugh!


Stan
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Hukshawn (Jan 30, 2017)

I dunno man... as soon as I took it apart I could see the weakness. Right where the key way is. I think it broke too easily... it was a tiny fly cutter. Maybe I'm bitter... no, I know I'm bitter. But at what? The machine? Maybe. Likely mostly myself. Sometimes I'm a little too gung-ho before I know enough. Typical mistake.


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## Ken from ontario (Jan 31, 2017)

Shawn, don't be bitter my man,it is just a hobby, as you said it yourself, this mill is supposed to be for your enjoyment so don't let it be source of aggravation,the weakest link in this type of mill (as you found out) is the plastic gears, the fact that you broke your is nothing unusual ,they would have eventually broke anyway, in fact it was probably a good thing that you broke it prematurely, once you have the metal gears on,you'll be good to go for a long time.

That mini mill is no slouch,it can produce great stuff, a lot of hobby machinists use them and are quite happy with them as long as you are aware of it's limitations you'll be  fine, I know I own one but with a brushless motor, it is essentially the same mill though.
I like your idea  to tram your mill/adjust the gibs while you are waiting for the gears to arrive, did you already install the Igaging DRO? that should take a couple of days,I just finished installing mine, had a blast  doing it.


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## Hukshawn (Jan 31, 2017)

After I spent most of last night fixing the dove tail (the x carriage jams in the last quarter of the dove tail) don't get mad, I wound up using some lapping compound cause I couldn't file out the step. 
Smooth now. 
Since I had the carriages off I mounted the x dro. Almost done that, stopped cause Irma's 1am and I got told to go to bed. Lol. 
I'll finish odd the x & y tonight. Won't do the z till I get the gears cause no sense in putting the head back on till I have the gears. 
I was enjoying cleaning and deburring. I am enjoying it, just the stupidity of such a weak component I'm such an important spot bothered me.


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## Ken from ontario (Jan 31, 2017)

After watching a few youtube videos on how to install aDRO on the X axis, I found out that the position of the digital reader is very important since it could hit the column if installed in the center(it should be off center  more toward the left of the column) , I suggest you  do a dry run before finalizing the installation by moving the Y saddle all the way back toward the column while watching the reader in case it hits the column gosset.this video (at about 3.52) explains what I'm talking about:


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## Hukshawn (Jan 31, 2017)

I had already anticipated and expected I'd lose x travel due to the reader. It was either that or put it on the front and cover all the gib screws and whatnot. 
I wasn't horribly concerned cause the vice I'm gonna use sits pretty far back on the table. But I'll give that video a watch and consider it.


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## royesses (Jan 31, 2017)

I centered the read head on the x axis scale and removed the left side dust cover screw and installed a stud and nut. Adjust to stop saddle before the scale read head hits the fuselage bracket, the nut locks the dust cover bracket. No chance of damage to the scale that way.


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## Hukshawn (Jan 31, 2017)

That's a great idea. 

Nice little drawing, too.


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## royesses (Jan 31, 2017)

Thanx, Shawn. Stud is M6-1.00 x 30mm. Socket head stud from the mini lathe 3" chuck mount.

Roy


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## ferlum (Jan 31, 2017)

Gunrunner you need to order a set of these for the Z axis hand crank. Bill did you just spit coffee on your monitor? :rofl:

View attachment 253356


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## Hukshawn (Jan 31, 2017)

As a matter of fact, one of the bolts the igaging dro comes with fits perfectly! And it has a nut. Well, I'll be dammed. That was easy. 
Last night, I overlooked a chip guard when mounting that x scale... gonna have to take it all back off, lol. I have some 25 awg aluminum I've been making guards out of. I'll just bend a 90* and screw it on behind the scale. Should be just enough room.


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## Hukshawn (Jan 31, 2017)

ferlum said:


> I couldn't afford to lose the X axis travel (there's not much there to begin with), so I mounted the scale in front as in the pic. I can still get to the gib adjusters. Replaced the X axis locking lever with a socket head cap screw and use a screwdriver-style allen key when I need to lock it.
> 
> It's been like this for over a year of regular use and I haven't had any problems.
> 
> The belt drive is a must-do. Makes the machine much smoother and quieter.


I have a tendency to do things sometimes to get them done. Then work with it for a while and change it down the road when there's more time/money/desire. I may very well find myself changing the scale position if I need that extra 3/4" travel.

The belt drive is definitely something I'd like. Most of my purchases are cash purchases. Try to keep things off the credit cards as that flusters the wardens feathers. And the belt drive is an online purchase.  No one around my neck of the woods supplies such a thing. In fact, I called busy bee (where I purchased the mill) to inquire about the belt drive... then the metal gears... then finally replacement plastic ones. (which they don't stock)... they had never heard of the conversion kit, and don't suply the metal gears.

The belt drive conversion kit isn't something that appears to be out of the realm of possibilities to make, even... just a couple pulleys, a mounting bracket, and a floating motor mount. And I'm sure I can find a suitable belt.


Edit: anyone wanna do up a layout with measurements of the pulleys and plates?? I wonder if I look long enough online if I'll find one.


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## royesses (Feb 1, 2017)

Recently someone posted the belt drive drawings. I couldn't find the thread but I did download them.


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## Hukshawn (Feb 1, 2017)

Well now... that's just spectacular. It'll take me a month of Sundays, but that doesn't look impossible. It does, however, look like the bigger parts will move around the vise/table 100 times cause the machine is so small. But that should be fun to screw up 3 times before getting right!!


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## Hukshawn (Feb 1, 2017)

just doesn't show the clear guard. Which, I'm sure I'd ignore till I had a close call then actually look into making.


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## Hukshawn (Feb 1, 2017)

Why are there two smaller pulleys?


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## royesses (Feb 1, 2017)

The belt guard could be made from plexiglass. I don't know if the parts shown are exactly the same as the LMS belt drive but they have all the needed dimensions. You could modify to suit yours needs and machines. It does look like a heck of a lot of work though. That's why I went with the LMS kit. I know you are paying more with high shipping cost since you live in Canada so it might be less expensive to get the materials local to you. Be great if you had someone local with a big mill to knock out the machine work. All doable on the mini mill just a lot slower. Of course you need to add in the extra material for 4 tries or if you were me 6 tries. We need a way to be able to purchase and sell between our 2 county's as though we were one. 

If you have the metal internal gears the only one plastic is the intermediate gear on top. This acts like a fuse. I'm sure we could purchase a couple here from LMS and send them to you.

Roy


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## Hukshawn (Feb 1, 2017)

Oh right... that gear kit only comes with two internal gears... huh... didn't realize that. But, it's bigger, thicker, likely less prone to breakage. 

My metal supply shop isn't far, 20 mins away on a bad traffic day, and is reasonably priced. The flat plate alumunum might cost me $25 and I could either buy the square stock or just use round stock, which I have, for the spacers. Really, the belt might be the only tricky purchase. 

And yes, the difference in dollar and shipping is painful, most of the time.


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## royesses (Feb 1, 2017)

The two pulleys are for two speeds. I found some more. Hoss machine is where those plans come from. There is also another one that looks simpler with a steel plate:
http://myplace.frontier.com/~wgmumaw/MiniMill Belt Drive/MiniMill conversion.html
minimill belt driver conversion.pdf


Hoss web page write up:
http://www.hossmachine.info/projects_6.html


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## Hukshawn (Feb 1, 2017)

Man, you've been incredibly helpful. Thank you!


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## Charles Spencer (Feb 1, 2017)

Hukshawn said:


> The belt drive is definitely something I'd like. Most of my purchases are cash purchases. Try to keep things off the credit cards as that flusters the wardens feathers.



I have a separate checking account and debit card for making online purchases.  I told them I absolutely did not want overdraft protection on it.  I keep a balance of between $50 - $70 dollars in it.  When I want to make a purchase I transfer the necessary amount in and make the purchase immediately.  This protects me from any large (over my base balance) fraudulent charges, keeps my main account and credit card information off the internet, and has the added benefit of my purchases not showing up on our regular statements.


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## Hukshawn (Feb 1, 2017)

Hahaha. Oh man. That'd be divorce country for sure. 
I don't need toys that badly. If I needed to get something significant online, I'll just tell her and deal with the "why do you need that, you don't need that" argument.


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## royesses (Feb 1, 2017)

Hukshawn said:


> Man, you've been incredibly helpful. Thank you!



Your very welcome. It is a lot of fun tracking down this stuff.


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## Hukshawn (Feb 2, 2017)

Have the profile hogged out for the small motor pulley done before I ran out of time. 
Really relying on the dro here... something's not as accurate as I'd like. I mic the diameter of the piece, touch off, zero, then calculate the cut I want to make. It doesn't always work out in the numbers... I generally creep up to the final dimension and just mic till I'm where I want to be. Sometimes the dro is off by .010". Odd.. 
I usually account for backlash, the scale is mounted well, the work piece isn't getting hot and expanding. Not sure why it does that.


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## Hukshawn (Feb 3, 2017)

well.. the gears arrived today. got yelled at for buying more "crap", lol. 
they came pretty quickly, even from the states, gotta like that. 
MONGO problem i noticed with the gears tho..... i ordered the wrong ones! 
i ordered the gear set for the MT3 lathe/mill. luckily tho, the actual transmission gear that broke fits fine. the spindle gear is the wrong one. 
got most of the mill back together, got the x & y DRO mounted. it runs, its not overly loud. can probably thank the fact that i still have a plastic gear in there. and loaded with high pressure grease. 
ill continue in a few days when i have time again. but im glad its working again. 
im gonna get moving on that belt conversion tho, i dont like that plastic gear in there still...


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## Ken from ontario (Feb 3, 2017)

Hukshawn said:


> im gonna get moving on that belt conversion tho, i dont like that plastic gear in there still...


Sounds like a smart move, I don't have a personal experience with this belt conversion but based on what I've read so far it's the most rewarding and necessary upgrade for this type of mini mills with the "classic" motor/plastic gears.


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## Hukshawn (Feb 3, 2017)

Since I don't think too many people are watching this thread, I'll pose this to you, royesse.
I trammed the head. Have it within .0005" from side to side, but there is .003" difference from front to back... that's quiet a bit! Is that to be expected? I see no way to correct that. 

Also, holy weak column. Shocking amount of flex.


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## Hukshawn (Feb 4, 2017)

Ladies... I have chips...and I didn't break it! 

But it's on my bench, which is on cabinets, connected to an interior house wall. So the vibration reverberates through the house like a freight train....it's midnight, I got told to be quiet. Lol.


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## hman (Feb 4, 2017)

Hukshawn said:


> Since I don't think too many people are watching this thread, I'll pose this to you, royesse.
> I trammed the head. Have it within .0005" from side to side, but there is .003" difference from front to back... that's quiet a bit! Is that to be expected?


Good job on the X tram!  But please elaborate on "front to back."  Or better yet, what Y distance is involved in the .003" height difference?  And is it high at the front or at the back?


Hukshawn said:


> I see no way to correct that.
> Also, holy weak column. Shocking amount of flex.


As I'd mentioned in an earlier post, the only way to correct front-to-back tram is to dismount the column and either scrape or shim the mating surfaces.

But then, you also noted that the column itself is relatively flexible front-to-back.  What to do?  Maybe look in on the Yahoo group or search here for mini-mill column stiffening methods.  There are a couple tricks you can try.  Or else just be sure to always take a final "spring" pass with a good, sharp end mill.


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## Hukshawn (Feb 4, 2017)

I did see a post recently where they had mounted threaded rods outward to rig the mill column to the dedicated table to add rigity.

I think I will rot out how to deal with the .003" in the unfortunate the time being. I want to omelette that belt project first. And none of that would be effected by that angle


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## royesses (Feb 4, 2017)

Hukshawn said:


> Since I don't think too many people are watching this thread, I'll pose this to you, royesse.
> I trammed the head. Have it within .0005" from side to side, but there is .003" difference from front to back... that's quiet a bit! Is that to be expected? I see no way to correct that.
> 
> Also, holy weak column. Shocking amount of flex.



The head and column are a bit flexible so when cutting it may be trammed good enough. My mini mill was within .001 (pure luck)so I left it as is. You could cut a .003 shim and put it under the fuselage bracket front to get the head nod trammed. I have a packet of steel shim stock that I cut to size for shimming. The solid column mill is more rigid and easier to tram but is an expensive upgrade. There are a couple of threads here on the forum where guys have made stiffener brackets and or tram adjusters.

Roy


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## royesses (Feb 4, 2017)

One stiffener bracket solution from a member Fabrickator:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/my-lms-mini-mill.22202/


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