# Ellis Dividing Head Free Wheeling Mode



## omni_dilletante (Jun 6, 2016)

Finally finished creating the indexing blocks so I can mount my Ellis Dividing Head on my mill.

I found it very stiff to operate.  After getting some oil onto the worm drive is turns much more smoothly.

But when I disengage the worm drive and go into what the manual calls Free Wheeling Mode, I cannot turn the shaft at all.

If I tighten the brake screw nothing moves.  I loosen the brake and I can turn with the worm drive.  If feels smooth, but very stiff.

The unit kind of looks like it has never been used.  

Any advice on how to get oil into the bushings supporting the shaft, short of dismantling the whole thing?

Any idea on how easy it should be to turn when in 'Free Wheeling Mode'?

How intimidated should I be about pulling it all apart?

Thanks .


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## Bob Korves (Jun 6, 2016)

You might try to tilt it different directions to get the oil flowing into the dry areas.  The worm and worm gear and the shafts in dividing heads fit really closely  to minimize backlash and maximize accuracy.  A little varnish from old dried oil is enough to make them tight to turn.  You also might try using some sort of solvent to dissolve the dried gunk, then rinse it out after you work it into everything, then add lubricating oil again.  Taking one apart and putting it back together is not too tough of a job, and yours does not appear to be as complicated as some of the B&S, K&T, and others that have more functions like PTO to drive the dividing head for helical gears and such.

Edit: In freewheeling mode only the output shaft is turning.  It should turn pretty easily.


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## chips&more (Jun 7, 2016)

Hi, I also have an Ellis dividing head. Maybe the same as yours? I will go check later and get back to you. Anyway, those little button looking things that are on the casting. I actually call them oil nipples. In the center is a steel ball held in place by a spring. With an oiler having the proper tip, you depress the steel ball with the oiler tip and squirt oil into the DH. Make sure the area around the oil nipple is clean first!...Dave


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## chips&more (Jun 8, 2016)

Hi again omni_dilletante, I think I have the same Ellis dividing head (see mine in pic below). The one I have has four (4) of those oil nipples. Maybe try a little oil at those places? However, two (2) of the oil spots was on that cover you removed. I got mine about 30 years ago and with the 4” Buck chuck attached. Been using it all this time with the chuck on, never needed to remove it. I love mine, hope you do the same. If possible, it would be deeply appreciated if I could get a copy of your Ellis dividing head manual, please PM me…Thank You,Dave.


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## chips&more (Jun 8, 2016)

More thoughts: when you took that cover off, that removed the back lash adj. So yes, it should have turn very freely. Make sure the locking nut is not tight. And you should never over tighten it. In doing so can damage the bushing it locks onto. If still tight after you have oiled and checked things. It’s not that hard of a unit to dissemble, pretty straight forward. It only has a few parts and even less moving parts to keep track of.


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## omni_dilletante (Jun 8, 2016)

Here is an update.

I had added oil to all of the ports before posting.

I removed the nut on the back side of the spindle and attempted to slide the spindle out of the head.  It moved about a quarter of an inch quite easily and then would not move any further.  I decided that it would be better not to force it given I did not know what I was doing.

I by tilting the head one way and the other to get oil in the middle of the head into each bushing I got it to move pretty freely.  It was free enough that I felt it had lubrication in all the right places and I was not doing it any damage. 

It went back together with no left over pieces and I was able to finish my project. 

This web page has .pdfs of manuals and part lists.

Thanks again for all your help.


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