# Tilting Table For Mini Mill



## edojan (Apr 2, 2016)

I am thinking to get a tilting table size ~ 7x5" my question is how sturdy are they for mini mill use (I have a LMS 3990 ) .  There are several models available - I wonder if you can share experience with them / relative pros and cons of each model

*1. Grizzly G5758*



2. Ajax industry 


*Grizzly G9302*



*Grizzly G9301*
*

*


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## Paul in OKC (Apr 2, 2016)

I hae one similar to the top one. Honestly haven't used it yet, but my thought is that it is as stable as your mill table will be.


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## itsme_Bernie (Apr 2, 2016)

Two things to think about:

-The top one on the list, The big one, will be quite large on the mini-mill table.
-that one also may not reach 90° to the spindle. I'm pretty sure it does not. But make sure check for yourself before you buy it. 
-The smaller ones will reach 90° or more, and will probably withstand the force is your minimill is capable of cutting.

I do not have a mini mill but I had a Sherline.

Bernie


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## Bob Korves (Apr 2, 2016)

Think about what kinds of work you plan to use them for and how it will be set up.  Those fixtures take up a lot of headroom between the table and the spindle, room which is also taken up with whatever is going to be doing the cutting.  It is very easy to run out of work space headroom on a mini mill.


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## edojan (Apr 2, 2016)

Bob Korves said:


> Think about what kinds of work you plan to use them for and how it will be set up. Those fixtures take up a lot of headroom between the table and the spindle, room which is also taken up with whatever is going to be doing the cutting. It is very easy to run out of work space headroom on a mini mill.



Yes, this is a good point. The fixture on top is actually the lowest among those listed (its height is 3.5") - that is about the same as my 3" vice.   I am also thinking about the column riser that LMS sells for 3990 fixed column models - it increases the total headroom by 2"  here is the pic


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## master of none (Apr 2, 2016)

Hi Edojan, you could probable make the riser it looks pretty straight forward,save your self some money always a good thing.   Rick


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## Al-Hala (Apr 3, 2016)

edojan, that`s likely the best bet, as I will assume it is cast iron (making scraping into parallelism easier, vibration absorption,stable), by the pictures.

When I made mine for the 39xx series, I went through a few posts for ideas and information, and wound up using C1018 (cold rolled). The material came from Metal Supermarkets. Here is the example I ultimately followed: Mini-Mill Extended Column (shimmed parallel).

I will have to check my notes, but the LMS block might work out cheaper. Currently, LMS wants $87.96 USD for the block and UPS shipping to a Canadian residential address; with longer bolts purchased and pre-drilled holes, you might come out ahead.

Edit: in 2013, I spent $87.89 CDN in material, bolts (already had the tooling to make the holes, chamfers, 0.001 shim material). I cut the four sides (I had ordered it slightly oversize), drilled the holes.

One fellow has made a 4 inch deep variant, claims it works ok. Here is some additional reading, should you be interested:

Hobby Machinist - Adding a Column Riser
Hobby Machinist - Risers for Mini-Mill - What Metal
Home Shop Machinist - Riser Block(1) (the aforementioned 4 inch variant)
Riser Block(2) (same thread)
It does not add much, more of just an example, but here is an example of a fellow making one on YouTube (he swears at one point, so make certain any impressionable children are out of hearing range) YouTube 1 Inch Riser Block.


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## stupoty (Apr 3, 2016)

I have one that looks like the Ajax industry one (number 2) its 18cm x 13cm table size.

I use it on an RF25 type bench mill.

I took the handle and worm off as I couldn't clamp it or use it with it in place.

It's very rigid or at least it hasn't seemed fleyx when I've used it.  It's quite heavy which is nice.

I had to make some toe clamps to use with it as all my clamps were too big and got in the way when milling. Also Tee nuts.

The angle locking nuts are a pain to get at.

the size of the table can make it hard to get things clamped down and still have room for the work piece.

Don't use it a hell of a lot but when I do it's always very useful.

Stuart


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## edojan (Apr 3, 2016)

Al-Hala said:


> I will have to check my notes, but the LMS block might work out cheaper. Currently, LMS wants $87.96 USD for the block and UPS shipping to a Canadan residential address; with longer bolts purchased and pre-drilled holes, you might come out ahead.
> 
> Edit: in 2013, I spent $87.89 CDN in material, bolts (already had the tooling to make the holes, chamfers, 0.001 shim material). I cut the four sides (I had ordered it slightly oversize), drilled the holes.
> 
> ...



Great info - thanks.  Buying this from LMS might be cheaper indeed especially that I don't have a suitable piece of cast iron laying around... 
Btw, when purchasing from US based suppliers I have the items shipped to CBU warehouse in Niagara Falls (only $6 as the warehouse fee in addition to US shipping )


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## edojan (Apr 3, 2016)

stupoty said:


> I have one that looks like the Ajax industry one (number 2) its 18cm x 13cm table size.
> 
> 
> I took the handle and worm off as I couldn't clamp it or use it with it in place.
> ...


From the pics I actually suspected that the handle / worm maybe causing clamping issues. Thanks !


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## Al-Hala (Apr 3, 2016)

edojan said:


> Btw, when purchasing from US based suppliers I have the items shipped to CBU warehouse in Niagara Falls (only $6 as the warehouse fee in addition to US shipping )


Nice! I have been aware there are US to CDN forwarders, but I`ve not had first hand experience. I`ll have to check out CBU; the last item I ordered was Canode spotting compound, and the shipping was more than the purchase.


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## edojan (Apr 3, 2016)

Sorry for the typo the warehouse is actually CBI not CBU http://www.cbiusa.com/

I have been using them for years and even had my entire LMS 3990 + accessories package shipped to the warehouse address which saved me some significant $   (they also accept heavy shipments by pallet (also cheap) and they don't split the hair if you don't pick it immediately   I am finding that metal suppliers in Canada are unreasonably expensive (concluded after a trip or two to the metal supermarket store around here) Now I am thinking to purchase from  onlinemetals.com and speedymetals.com  shpped to CBI.


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## pineyfolks (Apr 3, 2016)

If this would work for you, it can be made for little to nothing.  
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/simple-tilt-table.16854/


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## Al-Hala (Apr 3, 2016)

edojan said:


> Sorry for the typo the warehouse is actually CBI not CBU http://www.cbiusa.com/...metal suppliers in Canada are unreasonably expensive



No worries; a little Google-Fu had me find it under CBI. As to prices, I agree with you. About 3x what the company I previously was with paid for metal (knew it before I purchased the riser block, however). The saw charges are completely out there; still, there is an increased cost keeping and sourcing cut off and low volume numbers.

I recently had Metal Supermarket quote out some Durabar or similar for a dovetail surface master; I was quoted $112.50 for a 65-45-12 bar, 2.5" dia and 19" long.


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## edojan (Apr 3, 2016)

pineyfolks said:


> If this would work for you, it can be made for little to nothing.
> http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/simple-tilt-table.16854/



Actually this is a very cool jig for small angles.  I am going to make one like this. Thanks for the link!


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## gheumann (Apr 9, 2016)

Jumping in late here, but (and it may or may not work for you) - have you considered a tilting vise instead? I have one and end up using it all the time. But I'm not doing super precision work or turning tough materials - just aluminum, cast zinc, wood and delrin.


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## EmilioG (Dec 3, 2017)

How about this? More room in Z axis and DIY to you configuration. A T slot cutter is extra but the you can make several tables, so it's more
cost efficient., if you use more than one.  Tom's design may also be easier to indicate square on your vise.
Tom Lipton  OxTool


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## Ken from ontario (Dec 3, 2017)

I really enjoyed reading this thread ,like your table very much ,I'm just curious why you didn't notch the round bar unless the diameter of the bar was too small for your vise in order to have a 3 point contact and still have the plate slightly above the surface of the vise.
Anyhow, this is a great project ,I also need to make a few toe clamps.
Thanks for reviving the this thread and posting pics of your tilting table.


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## EmilioG (Dec 3, 2017)

Thanks Ken, but that tilt table was built by Tom Lipton.  I was merely showing the design I prefer. Bolting the entire round bar on the bottom/edge, allows the table to be re-ground or fly cut when it gets dinged up from use. I see this table as semi-sacrificial.  You can cut and drill into it and not worry.  Notch the round stock puts the table flush and thus, cannot be re-cut without hitting the bar.  I would cut, face and turn the round bar and bolt to the bottom of the flat plate. Re-usable and an accurate pivot point.  long set screws up front, to level on the vise top, and or you can use jack screws or whatever.  6" x 6", with 10-32 tapped holes. Very cool.


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## Ken from ontario (Dec 3, 2017)

EmilioG said:


> Notch the round stock puts the table flush and thus, cannot be re-cut without hitting the bar. I would cut, face and turn the round bar and bolt to the bottom of the flat plate.


Makes perfect sense, of course a thicker plate could be used but for a mini mill,  Z axis height is always an issue.


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## richl (Dec 3, 2017)

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/simple-tilt-table.16854/page-2
This thread also covers the pallet type table for your vise. The last couple posts in the thread cover making a table to work like  was posted here, a rotary table and simply clamped to your table, and  he covers making some finger clamps... nice addition to your toolset.


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