# Pipe Welding on Steel



## erikmannie (Mar 1, 2021)

I have made some 4”, 6”, 8” and 10” Schedule 40 pipe welding coupons with a 37 1/2° bevel and a .050” land. This is an easy job on a lathe.

I wanted to go to welding school which had about 40 weeks of pipe welding, but I am going to try to do this at home. Going away to school is expensive and has a lot of unproductive down time.

I welded my first seam today on an 8” coupon. I used a 3/32” gap, 6010 tack welds every 90°, one root pass with 3/32” 6010 at 60A, and then 5 passes of 1/8” Excalibur 7018 (great stuff!) at 110A.

It was rough, but there were some rays of hope.


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## erikmannie (Mar 1, 2021)

The result is obscene, but I will reluctantly upload a photo or three.

2 of my tack welds failed when I welded the first 90°. I had to put it in my hydraulic press and re-tack it (in the press!). This makes the case for better tack welds.

I was only comfortable welding from 10 to 2 o’clock. At 2 o’clock, the weld metal started to drip down. I tried some 7018 vertical up (building a shelf), but the bead was ugly.

With some practice, I will be able to make it happen from 10 to 2 o’clock, but the vertical and overhead is out of reach at this point.


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## erikmannie (Mar 1, 2021)

I have stick welded a lot of .050” muffler tubing with 1/16” 7014. I got that down, although sometimes I would blow holes and have to fix it with 7024. I would rotate it up to 12 o’clock to do this repair.

Now I will only use 6010, 7018 and 7018AC. I do ALL of my stick welding on DCEP.


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## erikmannie (Mar 1, 2021)

I think I might do a lot of work at 10 to 2 o’clock and try to extend that as I am able. I am also going to change the gap to 1/16”.

I have watched so many pipe welding videos on YouTube.

I might also change it to 3 passes of 6010 before I switch to 7018. I feel way more comfortable welding with 6010.

I won’t be working on much else until I get this down. Pipe welding is super fun because there is a great deal of arc time and opportunity to practice vertical up.


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## matthewsx (Mar 2, 2021)

How do you get to Carnegie Hall?


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## erikmannie (Mar 2, 2021)

matthewsx said:


> How do you get to Carnegie Hall?



Practice, practice, practice. I have nothing else going on.


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## Cadillac (Mar 2, 2021)

Looks like you could be alittle hotter. If doing a lot of pipe you might want to look at some pipe roller stands. Fairly easy to make and will keep you under the hood longer. Looking good!


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## erikmannie (Mar 2, 2021)

In my excitement to get welding, I skipped over the part where I plan the work.

I did a lot of reading last night, and my guess on how to do it (despite watching hundreds of YouTube videos) was more wrong than right.

I am going to take it one step at a time, and just do a single, hopefully correct root pass on all of the coupons first.

So far, I gather that a “nickel” land will serve (I made the lands .050”), and the gap should be one electrode size smaller than what is being used. I have 3/32” 6010 so the gap will be 1/16”.


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## erikmannie (Mar 2, 2021)

I also learned that you can go downhill with 6010 due to it’s fast freeze characteristics.

Speaking of only the 6010 root now, I also read:

(1) you need 100% pen, so you need to get a keyhole immediately and never lose it, and you are only working to fuse the lands. No attempt is made to weld on the bevel.

(2) you are basically to jam the electrode into the groove. The result should look like it was welded from the inside. Start with a 90° electrode angle, and adjust that only to avoid leaving behind a hole. Alternatively, you can turn down the current so as not to get holes.

(3) to reiterate: a single pass only of 6010. After that, the hot pass for which 7018 or the like (fast fill, low hydrogen) is recommended. Any 6010 in the bevel is unwelcome because that gets you wagon tracks, so best to grind that down so that the hot pass goes onto a surface free of convexity.

(4) a 1” long tack weld every 120° is good.

(5) obviously, the electrode is equally biased between the 2 coupons. If you want to, you can keep the electrode at a 90° angle if you whip and pause (as opposed to getting your current set perfectly and then just dragging the rod). One of the people online said to maintain the 90° during the whip and pause (i.e. move the electrode holder back and then forward). I do whip and pause, but I was changing the angle in doing so.

(6) bad things happen when you long arc, so jam it in there.

(7) move fast.

(8) you need to take the time to get the settings right. The only settings on my machine are current and DIG. I know to set DIG at 30% for 7018. I tried 60% for 6010, and I liked that.


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## erikmannie (Mar 2, 2021)

For the record, I am working on 6010 root and 7018 cap. I fully understand that successful pipe welds have been made using every other electrode type and combination possible.


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## erikmannie (Mar 2, 2021)

I will be grinding my mistakes after each level.


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## erikmannie (Mar 2, 2021)

It took me all the way around the pipe before I think I got the settings correct for my 3/32” el cheapo 6010: 52A, 65% DIG. My owner’s manual says to run 6010 at 65% DIG.

I’m happy with what is going on there at 12 o’clock.

For the time being I’m only working from 10:30 to 1:30 o’clock even though the 6010 is very well behaved going downhill.


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## erikmannie (Mar 2, 2021)

I am finding mostly everything about this to be considerably difficult. I was practically in tears just trying to get it in to position to tack weld.

This was the ONLY thing that I found to work. I keep it in the press when I put in the tech welds.


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## b4autodark (Mar 3, 2021)

If I may ask, what do you intend to use your new skill set for?


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## erikmannie (Mar 3, 2021)

b4autodark said:


> If I may ask, what do you intend to use your new skill set for?



Nothing that would pay. Only (1) entertainment/challenge in the moment, and (2) making future (non-pipe) welding tasks easier.

Any excuse for arc time!


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## erikmannie (Mar 3, 2021)

The second day of this went as follows:

(1) more trouble than expected to get it tacked, and even then the pipes were not perfectly aligned nor were the gaps consistent,

(2) I did come to see how the 6010 root goes in (settings dialed, go as hot and fast as you can + as deep as possible within reason, don’t leave behind any holes),

(3) I had to adjust the current for ambient temperature pipe vs. heated up pipe, and also adjust the current for different gap widths,

(4) hot pass (7018, of course) was the easiest because there is nowhere to blow a hole & little chance of undercut,

(5) last passes entail (a) making sure to weld in a straight line, (b) planning how it will all end so that the end result doesn’t stick up too much, (c) a lot of tie-ins, (d) minding where the arc strikes are, and (e) danger of undercut.


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## b4autodark (Mar 3, 2021)

I taught stick and tig pipe welding to pipe trades apprentices for 22 years. Some things to consider if you are interested?


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## erikmannie (Mar 3, 2021)

I did not try 7018 vertical up all day. I was having more than enough trouble working around 12 o’clock.

At one point, I decided to use the lathe to machine down the root passes for the hot passes. I found out quickly that my 8” 3J scroll chuck has much less clamping power than my 12” 4J independent (I need to clamp on the inside of the pipe). 

Also, I had the compound set to a 37 1/2° (bevel chamfer) angle. I thought I could do a little bit of turning (actually “grooving”) on some 4” pipe with the compound set at that angle. I didn’t think ahead and the rotating pipe came in and took a small (kidney bean size) bite out of the compound on my new lathe. This is the sort of thing that you would expect to see in a high school shop class.


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## erikmannie (Mar 3, 2021)

b4autodark said:


> I taught stick and tig pipe welding to pipe trades apprentices for 22 years. Some things to consider if you are interested?



Do you happen to be in the Bay Area?

I am going to get all of pipe welding down (to include even oxyacetylene, but I don’t know about FCAW) so post everything you are willing to post. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. I for one will read and learn everything that you post.

Maybe this thread will end up being super long because I am very interested in SMAW, GTAW and GMAW on steel pipe in all positions! I understand that this will take a lot of time, effort and frustration.


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## b4autodark (Mar 3, 2021)

erikmannie said:


> Do you happen to be in the Bay Area?
> 
> I am going to get all of pipe welding down (to include even oxyacetylene, but I don’t know about FCAW) so post everything you are willing to post. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. I for one will read and learn everything that you post.
> 
> Maybe this thread will end up being super long because I am very interested in SMAW, GTAW and GMAW on steel pipe in all positions! I understand that this will take a lot of time, effort and frustration.


Not in the bay area, Minnesota. First off let me tell you how it happens "on the job". Your set up with gap and land looks fine, you have surely found out by now that pipe is not round! If your coupons both come from the same length of pipe it makes it easy to line them up and deal with ovality, otherwise rotate them to get your best fit - up.

On schedule #40 pipe the root pass is done with 1/8" 6010, not 3/32". never a downhill root on pressure piping 12" diameter or less always uphill, less chance of slag inclusions. 

The hot pass will either be done with, depending on the prescribed weld procedure, 1/8" 6010 or 3/32" 7018, both will be run uphill. 

The cover pass will be run with, also depending on the prescribed procedure, 1/8" 6010 or #/32" 7018, both will be uphill as well.

The reason for 1/8" 6010 and 3/32" 7018 is that both can be run at the same amperage (about 90 for starters). You don't want to have to jump out of the ditch and run back to your welder to adjust amps between the root and hot pass and cover pass. Minor amperage adjustments are accomplished by varying travel speed and arc length, you will get used to it.

Just a couple of observations. You have to hurry so fast with your root because you are using 3/32", 1/8" will deposit more filler material at a slower travel speed. You are "outclassed" by 1/8'' 7018 in a small bevel. The hot pass should be level with the parent metal and the top edges of the bevel should be visible and not eroded. When doing the cover pass the electrode should hesitate centered on the edge of the bevel long enough to fill the puddle and then move one electrode diameter uphill and hesitate on the opposite bevel.

I am not just picking these rod diameters out of thin air, they are the industry standard and will be the same for every test. Stringer beads will be used on horizontal welds for the cover pass. You have to have patience and walk before you can run. I wish I could spent a few hours with you in a welding booth.


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## erikmannie (Mar 3, 2021)

b4autodark said:


> Not in the bay area, Minnesota. First off let me tell you how it happens "on the job". Your set up with gap and land looks fine, you have surely found out by now that pipe is not round! If your coupons both come from the same length of pipe it makes it easy to line them up and deal with ovality, otherwise rotate them to get your best fit - up.
> 
> On schedule #40 pipe the root pass is done with 1/8" 6010, not 3/32". never a downhill root on pressure piping 12" diameter or less always uphill, less chance of slag inclusions.
> 
> ...



So no downhill welding on the root. Got it. I see that I continue to do more things wrong than right.

So the cover pass is a single bead (maybe a weave)? My cover passes have 2 beads. I will post a photo.

I did not understand “outclassed” (by 7018). You mean the 1/8” should be 3/32”?

I did see that pipe is not round. Mine is even less so because it has been tightly clamped in a 12” 4J independent to make the coupon.

I am going to need to figure out a way to tack the pipe that minimizes ovality and yields a more consistent gap. I was trying to gap to 1/16”, and I ended up with up to 1/8”. Very tough to lay a root in a 1/8” gap with a 3/32” rod.

Finally (for now), the lands on my coupons are not consistent. This is due to the 4J independent chuck distorting the pipe. I need to have the jaws tight because I am clamping the work from the inside & I don’t want the workpiece to fly out (as has happened with 4” pipe in a 3J universal chuck which is exciting). What size land should I aim for? I tried for .050” which burns away pretty quickly with 3/32” 6010 at 50 to 60 Amps.


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## erikmannie (Mar 3, 2021)

I know that there are multiple issues here, but it is what it is. Obviously a lot more work to do.







This is 1/8” 7018 Lincoln Excalibur at 110A, 30% DIG on a Miller Dynasty 210DX.


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## b4autodark (Mar 3, 2021)

OK, you should have 1/8'' land, and 1/8'' gap. You are using 1/8'' 6010 electrode on the root pass at about 85 amps, depends on how the machine runs, I can't comment on ''dig''. Forget about using 3/32" 6010 for the root. If you want to learn how to weld pipe so you can pass a test it has to be done according to procedure, if you just want to stick together two pieces there are many ways to do it.

Cover pass should be a slight weave, single pass, uphill.

By outclassed I meant to big of rod for what you are trying to accomplish, to high of deposition rate, to hard to control. Decrease diameter to 3/32''.  Use the same setting on your machine for 1/8'' 6010 and 3/32'' 7018.  If you don't have any 3/32" 7018 on hand stick with 1/8" 6010, forget about 1/8" 7018 it is to hard to control for the weld you are trying to do in 3 passes.

You may want to try setting the coupons lengthwise in a piece of angle iron to line them up with your spacer rod in between them held together by a couple welding magnets till you get a tack or two in. Space them at about 5/32" because the gap will shrink after you tack it.

Before to long you will be able to beat a land on with a hammer and do a perfect root. Don't laugh, I've had to do it!


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## Weldingrod1 (Mar 3, 2021)

1" is waaaay to long for a tack!

Are you already skilled in straight, horizontal position? If not, master that first!! Back when I taught, we used 1/4" hot rolled strip to learn on. We had a jig that set the gap right. Tack the ends and go.
I'm not a "drag the rod" proponent. That said, the most common thing I would tell my arc welding students was "closer!" I could tell by the sound even from across the room.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## brino (Mar 3, 2021)

erikmannie said:


> In my excitement to get welding, I skipped over the part where I plan the work.



That made me LOL!
Even at over 50 years old I still sometimes catch a glimpse of my youthful exuberance over a project.
I hope  I   , no "WE" never totally lose that.

@b4autodark thanks for sharing your expertise! That's what makes this site great!

-brino


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## erikmannie (Mar 3, 2021)

I am giving the three jaw chuck one last chance.


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## erikmannie (Mar 3, 2021)

A lot of missed spots in there...


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## b4autodark (Mar 3, 2021)

Keep at it, it will get easier. The porosity is from to long of an arc. It's easier to control with 3/32'' electrode. Most of the big slag inclusions are at stop and starts I would imagine. It will get better. It only took me a couple flatbed semi loads of rod to get decent at it.

Keep posting the pictures.


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## brino (Mar 3, 2021)

Erik,

If you made a solid plug, really just a disc with an OD that is a slip fit into the ID of the pipe, would that allow you to grip the pipes from the OD instead without as much movement?

Obviously you'd need a different plug for each pipe diameter.
I wonder if the pipe would be too oval to make this practical.....

-brino


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## erikmannie (Mar 3, 2021)

Here the the 10” I.D. pipe in the 3J scroll chuck. I prefer a 4J independent (more clamping pressure!), but this is fine.


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## erikmannie (Mar 3, 2021)

brino said:


> Erik,
> 
> If you made a solid plug, really just a disc with an OD that is a slip fit into the ID of the pipe, would that allow you to grip the pipes from the OD instead without as much movement?
> 
> ...



Gripping the 8” and 10” on the outside of the pipe has the jaws of my chuck extending out too far. This is not a problem with sizes smaller than that. 

Although now that I think about it, I could use the other set of jaws that came with the 3J for that. Those are still new in the box; are those called outside jaws?

I like to use as large of pipe as possible because you get more arc time that way.


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## erikmannie (Mar 3, 2021)

b4autodark said:


> Keep at it, it will get easier. The porosity is from to long of an arc. It's easier to control with 3/32'' electrode. Most of the big slag inclusions are at stop and starts I would imagine. It will get better. It only took me a couple flatbed semi loads of rod to get decent at it.
> 
> Keep posting the pictures.



Sometimes I long arc on a 7018 restrike because I have a hard time with the restart. The long arcing is between where I struck the rod & heading over to where I want to start the bead. Would I solve this by just keeping a short arc as I travel over to where I want to start working?

I don’t have much of a problem with 7018 restarts once the weldment is warmed up.

I suppose it anybody with any sense would PLAN a bead that would allow the use of a whole rod, or, if not, take a second to prep the tip of the partially used rod.


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## b4autodark (Mar 4, 2021)

erikmannie said:


> Sometimes I long arc on a 7018 restrike because I have a hard time with the restart. The long arcing is between where I struck the rod & heading over to where I want to start the bead. Would I solve this by just keeping a short arc as I travel over to where I want to start working?
> 
> Never!!! strike an arc and travel to where you left off. Always strike slightly ahead of where you want to start and move back into the puddle. Striking outside of the weld zone is an automatic fail on a certification test, it's called being "looked out" or failing on appearance alone. You usually won't be allowed to even put the next pass in. This is another reason to use 3/32'' 7018 electrodes, you will almost always use them up before you are getting "out of position" to maintain correct rod angle and you won't have trouble restarting a partially used electrode, you will be taking a new one that is easier to start.  Keep at it!


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## erikmannie (Mar 4, 2021)

@b4autodark 

It is always my intention to strike in the area where I am about to work, but, alas, I am well into middle age with the eyesight to go along with it. I have 2.5X cheaters in most of my hoods.

I also need to PLAN to be braced and comfortable. So far the bracing has been terribly lacking to the point where there is often no bracing at all.

I will be at it for 8 hours straight today. I will post pictures.

One issue is that I have 10-20 lbs. of 3/32” 6010 and 3/32” 7010-A1 to go through before I buy 1/8”. I don’t have money for 1/8” 6010 now. I made the 1/8” lands, so I will have to work with a (3/32”?) gap so that I can use my 3/32” fast freeze rods. This is an unfortunate development; I’m really kicking myself for not buying 1/8” 6010: 3/32” is not a good match for a 1/8” land.

So if I am stuck with 3/32” for the time being, what size land should I put in the coupons for this? What size gap? Is a 37 1/2° bevel good?


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## b4autodark (Mar 4, 2021)

I can relate, I just turned 70 and have +3.00 cheaters in my hood and wear +3.00 readers while welding as well. You are wise to know you have to PLAN the length of your travel, it makes a world of difference. Bracing and being comfortable also. You'll find a sweet spot.


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## erikmannie (Mar 4, 2021)

b4autodark said:


> I can relate, I just turned 70 and have +3.00 cheaters in my hood and wear +3.00 readers while welding as well. You are wise to know you have to PLAN the length of your travel, it makes a world of difference. Bracing and being comfortable also. You'll find a sweet spot.



I have one hood with no cheaters that I use when I want to wear 5X eyeglasses. Ya gotta get real close to the puddle; it’s awesome. For some unknown reason, I have only needed the 5X glasses for GTAW.

I can barely work with 2.5X cheaters. Next time I will try 3X.


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## erikmannie (Mar 4, 2021)

This is my second attempt at a setup. My first setup was just outside the side door, and the electrode holder would barely reach far enough, so I gave up on that. The wind didn’t help, either.

As it is set up, I can only access half of the pipe seam. I am right handed, and I will put my left elbow on the pipe to brace myself. I don’t think bracing will be a problem with the welding table right there.

I moved my Aloris tool holders about 15’ away. My expensive chuck is about 10’ away. I covered my ways and carriage. I don’t know how far hot spatter from welding at 110A (1/8” 7018) can travel. I could get some white sheets to test spatter damage.

On second thought, I’m going to get a bunch of tarps and cover anything that I don’t want to get damaged by spatter.


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## erikmannie (Mar 4, 2021)

I am doing hot passes on the 10” Sch 40 now. I did a small amount of machining prep on *some* high points of the 6010 root. I have 1/8” (all I have on hand) 7018 Excalibur at 110A. I was too lazy to use an angle grinder; I might have to do so, however.

I am having trouble at the tie-ins. The beginning of my new bead is usually too high, & certainly not blended. I am planning for a single cover pass. I am trying to get the crown of this hot pass just at the level of the pipe.

I like to weld as hot & fast as possible. I might turn up the current a little for the hot passes since there is little danger of undercut.







Edit: looking at that bead, I wouldn’t turn it up more than 1-2A.


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## erikmannie (Mar 4, 2021)

Hopefully the middle & end of this hot pass is okay, but at the beginning (new rod!) I apparently long arced (porosity observed), & then the first inch looks a little on the cold side. 1/8” 7018, 110A, preheated pipe.


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## erikmannie (Mar 4, 2021)

I have almost no practice with weaves. I usually do cursive e’s. I immediately noticed on the cap weld that cursive e’s are not an option. I have, however, watched a lot of 7018 weaving on YouTube.

I have it down to 107A now (1/8” 7018, preheated pipe). I wonder what the maximum allowable height above level is. My guess is 1/32”.

I see some undercut so I will have to drop it 1A and hang around the edges just a little longer.

I am still having huge problems blending at the tie-ins.


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## erikmannie (Mar 4, 2021)

On the cap weld, I am only getting 3 3/4” of bead out of a 1/8” 7018 rod. I would have no idea how to extend that.


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## erikmannie (Mar 4, 2021)

I made some adjustments. My machine is down to 96A. I also switched to a higher quality hood (from a Miller Classic to a Digital Infinity which did provide a better view).

This photo is a cap. That is my best tie-in so far. I see that I failed to weld to the perimeter at one point. I have a 0-10° pull angle for the weave as I do on all my 7018 welding. I am really trying my best to strike where allowed and always hold a very tight arc.

My dad came over and watched me, and he said that the hot spatter (110A, 220V) travels no further than 2-3’.

I was also able to undo my garage door handle so that I can open it a whole extra foot! This is the time to be thinking about good ventilation.




Edit: I see undercut. Must turn down the machine.


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## erikmannie (Mar 4, 2021)

I am almost through 3 seams of cap passes on this 10” pipe.

I have the machine all the way down to 90A, and I still see undercut. So I will turn it down yet more and hang around even longer on the edges.

I have still not yet gotten the hang of blending at the tie-in.

I see that you never run 7018 at even at the slightest angle downhill. I am only working from 10:30 to 12 o’clock, welding left to right, still with a 0-15° drag angle.


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## erikmannie (Mar 4, 2021)

I found this non-aggravating way to lay in the tacks. That is a piece of channel under the pipe. The difficulties that I had with tack welding the other day when I was outside discouraged me a lot. I was entirely frustrated before I even got to laying in the root.

I am working with 3/32” 6010, and I am setting up the gap just by eyeball, knowing the widest that I can handle without blowing holes.




Note that these coupons are recycled. Cool, right?


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## erikmannie (Mar 4, 2021)

Here is a 3/32” 6010 root at 58A with a 1/16” gap and 1/8” land. I did not “de-slagify” the inside, but I can see that I did not get full pen on the inside. I had the rod jammed in the land almost the whole time. I guess I will have to jam it in deeper, which I don’t mind doing at all. The 6010 doesn’t stick.







I need to get 100% pen on the inside!


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## brino (Mar 4, 2021)

erikmannie said:


> Note that these coupons are recycled. Cool, right?


Yep, you are certainly getting your moneys worth of practice out of those pieces.
-brino


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## erikmannie (Mar 4, 2021)

brino said:


> Yep, you are certainly getting your moneys worth of practice out of those pieces.
> -brino



My parting tool is .063” wide, so they might not last forever. However, the gap is always greater than that so maybe they will last forever!


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## erikmannie (Mar 4, 2021)

An 1/8” land might be too great for a 3/32” rod. I had the rod “touching or deeper” the whole way around & this is the best I could do on the inside. All the rest of the interior seam was a failure with regard to full pen. I also show the top of the only successful part: 6010 is nice to work with.


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## erikmannie (Mar 5, 2021)

I found some of this to be interesting reading:



			https://www.coned.com/-/media/files/coned/documents/es/specs/eo-specs/G-1064


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## b4autodark (Mar 5, 2021)

Looking much better! I see you finally took the suggestion I made in my 4th post about setting the coupons in an angle iron, the channel iron you are using is fine as well.

You will not control your undercut as effectively by turning down your amps as you will by slowing down your travel speed and depositing more filler metal. Also concentrate on keeping a short arc also, long arc draws more amps and makes the puddle harder to control. Get the amps set and leave it alone or all you will be doing is constantly adjusting amperage.

On your hot pass strike an arc in the center of the bevel, establish a puddle, move the electrode to one side of the bevel and move it up and down t the distance of 2 rod diameters, move to the other side of the bevel and repeat the motion. Don't pay any attention to the center of the puddle as it will take care of itself, you will find this easier when you get 3/32'' 7018. As I've said before the 1/8'' 7018 is to much rod for the bevel.

You are definantly making progress.


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## aliva (Mar 6, 2021)

Don't get hung up on clamping pressure. Tighten enough so it doesn't fall off. On the joints grind away the mill scale  about 1/2 inch past the edge would help before welding. The  mill scale can add a lot of contaminants. As mentioned before the gap between the 2 faces should be the electrode dia. being used for the root pass. The face of the bevel would be the rod dia. used for the root. Our high pressure welders used 6011 for penetration Then grind out any flux or crap in the weld., Next was a pass of 7018 as the filler, then a 7018 cap.
To set your gap between the pieces use an electrode that your going to use for the root pass probably 3/32 knock the flux off and and sandwich between the pieces, then tack weld to hold., then remove the spacers. This maybe difficult to do horizontally with one person , so set everything up vertically, let gravity do the work. 
Just a note if your welding on your lathe be sure the welder ground is on the work, and not on the lathe, you don't want to pass current thru the lathe.


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## GunsOfNavarone (Mar 6, 2021)

I love welding...if I had the chance to go to school and "do it all over", That's what I'd do. If you love it as well...go to school, many more doors will open.


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## erikmannie (Mar 6, 2021)

For all the welding videos that I have watched on YouTube, I had never seen any of this guy’s:



			https://m.youtube.com/c/WallyzWeldingWorld/videos?view=0&sort=p&flow=list&disable_polymer=true&itct=CBUQui8iEwin17azop3vAhVI0cQKHR7RCqI%3D
		


A lot of his videos are pertinent to this thread.


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## erikmannie (Mar 7, 2021)

aliva said:


> Don't get hung up on clamping pressure. Tighten enough so it doesn't fall off. On the joints grind away the mill scale  about 1/2 inch past the edge would help before welding. The  mill scale can add a lot of contaminants. As mentioned before the gap between the 2 faces should be the electrode dia. being used for the root pass. The face of the bevel would be the rod dia. used for the root. Our high pressure welders used 6011 for penetration Then grind out any flux or crap in the weld., Next was a pass of 7018 as the filler, then a 7018 cap.
> To set your gap between the pieces use an electrode that your going to use for the root pass probably 3/32 knock the flux off and and sandwich between the pieces, then tack weld to hold., then remove the spacers. This maybe difficult to do horizontally with one person , so set everything up vertically, let gravity do the work.
> Just a note if your welding on your lathe be sure the welder ground is on the work, and not on the lathe, you don't want to pass current thru the lathe.



Great tips! I wouldn’t even gas weld on my lathe.


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## erikmannie (Mar 7, 2021)

b4autodark said:


> Looking much better! I see you finally took the suggestion I made in my 4th post about setting the coupons in an angle iron, the channel iron you are using is fine as well.
> 
> You will not control your undercut as effectively by turning down your amps as you will by slowing down your travel speed and depositing more filler metal. Also concentrate on keeping a short arc also, long arc draws more amps and makes the puddle harder to control. Get the amps set and leave it alone or all you will be doing is constantly adjusting amperage.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the tips. I have about 10 lbs. of old 3/32” 7018AC  that I need to use up. I run every single class of electrode at DCEP.

Once I use up all of the mostly cheap and old electrodes that I have in my possession, I am going to buy the proper size & class of Lincoln electrodes. For example, this E6010:






						Fleetweld® 5P+
					

Fleetweld® 5P+ from Lincoln Electric is first choice for pipe welding, and vertical-up and overhead plate welding.




					m.lincolnelectric.com
				




Hopefully Lincoln Excalibur is a good choice for a 7018 on pipe because that rod is so nice to work with.


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## aliva (Mar 7, 2021)

An other thing that should be mentioned is, keep your rods warm, especially 7018 as it's a low hydrogen rod and it will suck moisture from the air.
If you can get a rod oven, set the temp to 150F. Keep all your rods in the oven, 6010, 6011, 7018, 7024 even SS 309, 316L.
Only take enough rods from the oven that you will use in roughly 1/2 an hour. If the rods are in a sealed box from the supplier they don't need to be heated to drive the moisture out. Once the pack is open then they should be kept in an oven before use. 1 hour at 150F would do.
By doing this you'll get the best possible results, if you making test coupons. A warm rod will flow much easier, try it.


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## erikmannie (Mar 7, 2021)

aliva said:


> An other thing that should be mentioned is, keep your rods warm, especially 7018 as it's a low hydrogen rod and it will suck moisture from the air.
> If you can get a rod oven, set the temp to 150F. Keep all your rods in the oven, 6010, 6011, 7018, 7024 even SS 309, 316L.
> Only take enough rods from the oven that you will use in roughly 1/2 an hour. If the rods are in a sealed box from the supplier they don't need to be heated to drive the moisture out. Once the pack is open then they should be kept in an oven before use. 1 hour at 150F would do.
> By doing this you'll get the best possible results, if you making test coupons. A warm rod will flow much easier, try it.



I need a rod oven!


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## erikmannie (Mar 7, 2021)

After watching a lot of YouTube videos, I have made some changes:

(1) Confirming: no 7018 downhill,

(2) 6010, 7010 or 8010 can be downhill, but maybe a little better to run uphill,

(3) Definitely feather the tacks & tie-ins with a stone disc. Not a bad idea to wire wheel finished beads for the purpose of slag removal,

(4) For roots: after tack welding, I can position the feathered tack at 12 o’clock and run the bead downhill, hopefully getting down to 6 o’clock, and ideally just a little past 6 o’clock. Same on the other side, but best not to have the tie-in at 6 o’clock. So basically I will be working from 12 o’clock to 6 o’clock. All of the tack welds get consumed in the root bead.

(5) Maybe bend the 6010 rod in the root while it is burning. Must have 100% pen on the inside & no undercut.

This is the third iteration of my fixturing:


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## b4autodark (Mar 7, 2021)

Looking better! Regarding rod ovens, do not store 6010 in them. 6010 electrodes need moisture, there have been times I've dipped them in water if they were to dry. The others yes, 6010 no, just keep them on the shelf. 

You can run a downhill root if you want but most tests require an uphill one. We never ran downhill roots on any pipe under 12" diameter. If you do, watch your rod angle and keep ahead of the slag.


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## erikmannie (Mar 7, 2021)

b4autodark said:


> Looking better! Regarding rod ovens, do not store 6010 in them. 6010 electrodes need moisture, there have been times I've dipped them in water if they were to dry. The others yes, 6010 no, just keep them on the shelf.
> 
> You can run a downhill root if you want but most tests require an uphill one. We never ran downhill roots on any pipe under 12" diameter. If you do, watch your rod angle and keep ahead of the slag.



Thanks. I will run my 6010 uphill. I am only using 6010 for root welds, by the way. Hot, fill & cap is 7018.

I have some quality 7010-A1 on hand. I could use that for hot passes.

I also have some 1/16” 7014 & 6013, but I will probably use those for other projects.


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## erikmannie (Mar 8, 2021)

Today I ran 1/8” 7018 uphill at 105-120A on a stationary 8” pipe. Previously, I had been working at a very advantageous angle. Today, half of the work was overhead, and it was just nasty.

9 o’clock to 3 o’clock (over the top) is almost no problem, but none of the work at the bottom 180° went as planned. The overhead is going to take a LOT of practice. Tomorrow I will try to get to the point where I can bear to post some pictures of what can only be described as a crime scene.

I know that the bottom half is technically vertical up, but it sure plays out like overhead.


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## b4autodark (Mar 8, 2021)

I feel your pain, overhead is very hard and can be discouraging. 12:00 to 3:00 is downhill, stop at 12:00 and start uphill on the other side and have your tie in at 12:00. You probably don't want to hear that but  .   .   .


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## aliva (Mar 9, 2021)

Overhead is a balancing act between amperage and speed. Just be sure to ware leathers for the falling slag. Practice, practice, practice.
I've never had a problem with overhead, vertical is my nemesis.


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## erikmannie (Mar 14, 2021)

Update: 

This project of practicing pipe welding is the main thing that I do nowadays. I make the coupons in 4, 6, 8 & 10”, SMAW with 6010 & 7018, & then back to the lathe to start the process all over again.

It is a LOT of arc time while at the welding table. I love arc time.

The only things that I have learned since I made my last post here is:

(1) I need to wear a welding cap. When I was doing horizontal with the 6010, I was getting a shower of sparks on my big bald spot.

(2) I need to wear a long sleeve shirt under my welding jacket. Again, a shower of sparks.

(3) I have been running a lot a horizontal because I hurt my neck a little by sleeping on it wrong. I don’t have issues with horizontal.

(4) I have been doing most everything with 3/32” 6010 at 60A, 65% DIG because I have at least 35 pounds of this particular stick electrode, and I am nearly running out of 7018 & 7018AC. Sort of weird to do hot, fill & cap passes with 6010, but I need to get rid of these electrodes.


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