# Chuck plus live center? Also a pic of my Sherline



## stainless (Jan 25, 2015)

*Chuck plus live center? Can I add sealed bearings to my steady rest?*

Hey guys. I want to turn 6 inch pieces of 6061 rod. Can I just center drill the end and use a three jaw plus live center? Seems like it's not a typical setup. I need to center drill the pieces anyway. 

Here's the Sherline 4000 lot I picked up for $500 this weekend. Three jaw, four jaw ind, steady rest, auto feed, tail chuck, cutoff tool, bits, two tool holders and collet adapter. All barely used.


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## aametalmaster (Jan 25, 2015)

Yup you can. Live center in the tailstock...Bob


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## kd4gij (Jan 25, 2015)

Yes using a live center for any thing over a couple of inches is the perferd way.


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## stainless (Jan 25, 2015)

Thank you, gentlemen. The steady rest was going to cause me to waste material. 

Also, can I add mini sealed bearings to the tip of my steady rest arms? Seems like that would be a better setup than the bare brass/bronze tips. I can always flip the arms around if the size is too big or small.


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## aametalmaster (Jan 25, 2015)

stainless said:


> Thank you, gentlemen. The steady rest was going to cause me to waste material.
> 
> Also, can I add mini sealed bearings to the tip of my steady rest arms? Seems like that would be a better setup than the bare brass/bronze tips. I can always flip the arms around if the size is too big or small.



You can do anything you want...Bob


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## stainless (Jan 25, 2015)

Like spin up the three jaw chuck without tightening it down? I stopped it maybe 10 seconds before happy fun time. I am now reading books and asking questions. 

Thank you for your help!


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## kvt (Jan 25, 2015)

Stainless I have an old 4000 and a new 4400,   and I have done exactly what you are talking about on both.   It works great, as using the steady rest on a short piece or in the short lathe gets in the way real quick.   I only use it on long items in the bigger lathe and that was normally just while I cleaned something up.   

And yes you have to watch spinning the thing up without setting the jaws tight first.   it will do some damage.   Also never start with the bars in place. Have seen that one and it is also dangerous.   

Give me a shout any time,   I'm just learning a lot but always ready to discuss stuff, and it does not seem like there are a lot of us with what is called micro, or watchmaker size lathes on the site.   But they can be fun to use and seem to follow the same principles as the bigger ones, so you can learn a lot from what others have to say.     I also have the 5400 Mill   

kvt


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## stainless (Jan 25, 2015)

kvt said:


> Stainless I have an old 4000 and a new 4400,   and I have done exactly what you are talking about on both.   It works great, as using the steady rest on a short piece or in the short lathe gets in the way real quick.   I only use it on long items in the bigger lathe and that was normally just while I cleaned something up.
> 
> And yes you have to watch spinning the thing up without setting the jaws tight first.   it will do some damage.   Also never start with the bars in place. Have seen that one and it is also dangerous.
> 
> ...


Excellent, thank you, kvt. 

I have been wanting a lathe for some time, but it was never practical for the small number of small items I need. I only recently found out about the Sherline lathes and it's perfect for me. For example, there's a special small brass thrust washer that I have to pay over $2 each for. I can knock these out fast on the Sherline.


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## kd4gij (Jan 25, 2015)

i
 used bearings on my steady.


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## kvt (Jan 25, 2015)

first was one I inherited,   but it needed a bunch of replacement parts, (stock and head did not line up).  But the second was a present.  some of the items I have done on this I would think would be hard on a big lathe,   1/4 inch 6061 about 8 inches long, and turned down to less than 3/16 in spots. That is where the live center worked great.   Even on this it took me a little bit to keep from damaging it while turning it down smooth.  Just a little bump and it was broken.   But the finished products worked great.  

Just think you can now have custom thrust washers as you need them, vice having to pay the arm and legs for them and the shipping.


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## JHP (Jan 25, 2015)

"Like spin up the three jaw chuck without tightening it down? "

...better than leaving the chuck wrench in!:nono:


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## ogberi (Jan 25, 2015)

stainless said:


> Thank you, gentlemen. The steady rest was going to cause me to waste material.
> 
> Also, can I add mini sealed bearings to the tip of my steady rest arms? Seems like that would be a better setup than the bare brass/bronze tips. I can always flip the arms around if the size is too big or small.



Let me know if you need little ball bearings for that.  I got a whole lotta them, taking up (thankfully) not too much space.  Unfortunately, they're metric bores/sizes, but I get 'em for free.   Good score on the Sherline!  They're darn capable little lathes, and once you get a bigger one, the scraps from the big lathe become stock for the little lathe. 

PM me if you need bearings. I got *plenty* of 'em!


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## stainless (Jan 26, 2015)

Thanks ogberi. Sent you a PM


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## stainless (Jan 31, 2015)

Did my very first lathe piece today. A tritium lantern from brass


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## darkzero (Jan 31, 2015)

Nice! Reminds me of Pete Gray's stuff. Good to see someone here with the same interests as me. I'm currently sporting a Tom Andersom Ti trit fob but I have my own Ti trit fobs on my list of projects to do. You on USN, CPF, etc?


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## stainless (Jan 31, 2015)

darkzero said:


> Nice! Reminds me of Pete Gray's stuff. Good to see someone here with the same interests as me. I'm currently sporting a Tom Andersom Ti trit fob but I have my own Ti trit fobs on my list of projects to do. You on USN, CPF, etc?


Thank you. I'm pretty new with the edc stuff. If it's all half a useful as the glowing keyring, count me in.


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## ogberi (Jan 31, 2015)

stainless said:


> Did my very first lathe piece today. A tritium lantern from brass



Okay, now I'm drooling.  Where did you order the glow tube from?  I've had issues getting any.


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## stupoty (Jan 31, 2015)

stainless said:


> Like spin up the three jaw chuck without tightening it down? I stopped it maybe 10 seconds before happy fun time. I am now reading books and asking questions.
> 
> Thank you for your help!



I forgot to toghten my er collet chuck today, bahh their i said it 

stuart


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## Wreck™Wreck (Jan 31, 2015)

stainless said:


> Thank you, gentlemen. The steady rest was going to cause me to waste material.
> 
> Also, can I add mini sealed bearings to the tip of my steady rest arms? Seems like that would be a better setup than the bare brass/bronze tips. I can always flip the arms around if the size is too big or small.



The only problem that I have ever experienced when using rollers in a steady/follow rest is keeping the chips out. Solid fingers do not let the chips in, rollers eat them. I had a rather large chip get between the rollers and the part on a 24 x 96 lathe, it broke the casting on the upper half of the steady and ruined the part as well. Since then, 1993 or so, I put a cardboard or whatever material is handy chip guard between the steady/follow rest and the tool. I often rough large lathe parts at .125-.200 DOC so the chips are substantial, yet a small chip will ruin your day.


I can not stress this enough, do not let chips get between the roller bearings and part in a steady rest.


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## stainless (Feb 1, 2015)

ogberi said:


> Okay, now I'm drooling.  Where did you order the glow tube from?  I've had issues getting any.


I PMed you the site. Not sure how vendors are handled here.


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## stainless (Feb 1, 2015)

Wreck™Wreck said:


> The only problem that I have ever experienced when using rollers in a steady/follow rest is keeping the chips out. Solid fingers do not let the chips in, rollers eat them. I had a rather large chip get between the rollers and the part on a 24 x 96 lathe, it broke the casting on the upper half of the steady and ruined the part as well. Since then, 1993 or so, I put a cardboard or whatever material is handy chip guard between the steady/follow rest and the tool. I often rough large lathe parts at .125-.200 DOC so the chips are substantial, yet a small chip will ruin your day.
> 
> 
> I can not stress this enough, do not let chips get between the roller bearings and part in a steady rest.


Thank you.


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## stainless (Feb 1, 2015)

Made an aluminum razor handle today.


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## kvt (Feb 1, 2015)

Nice handle.   If I can ever get some pictures I will show you a couple of items I made for the wife (she paid for my 4400 lathe) Thus I have to make things for her as well.  She does some fancy hand made lace and I made her some bobbins out of Alum.   Problem is I have not figured out how to use a follower or a steady rest to help on it since it is so varied in size.   I will try to get some pics and post them.  I have broken more of them than I have gotten done.   

kvt


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## ogberi (Feb 1, 2015)

Nice!  I use a Merkur 38C razor, with Feather blades.  Heavy, long-handled (better control), and stable.  The feather blades are so sharp as to defy description, and the result is a baby-butt smooth shave, despite my unreasonably heavy facial hair.  I shave my head, usually with one of the wife's Soleil razors (hey, don't laugh until you've tried it!  They work awesome!), followed with a cleanup with the Merkur and a once-used-on-the-face Feather blade (to take the edge off, less nicks).   

I'd love to see a razor handle from 3/8" stainless, about 3.5-4" long, with knurls in sections.  Something heavy and hefty, with plenty of grip and substance to keep ahold of for shaving the head.  That takes more control than shaving the face....

I'd love to get into straight razor shaving, but last time I tried it, I cut a 3" fishbelly in my cheek.  I'm a bit leery of straight razors now....

Let's see more!


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## stainless (Feb 2, 2015)

kvt said:


> Nice handle.   If I can ever get some pictures I will show you a couple of items I made for the wife (she paid for my 4400 lathe) Thus I have to make things for her as well.  She does some fancy hand made lace and I made her some bobbins out of Alum.   Problem is I have not figured out how to use a follower or a steady rest to help on it since it is so varied in size.   I will try to get some pics and post them.  I have broken more of them than I have gotten done.
> 
> kvt


Post them up, I want to see


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## stainless (Feb 2, 2015)

ogberi said:


> Nice!  I use a Merkur 38C razor, with Feather blades.  Heavy, long-handled (better control), and stable.  The feather blades are so sharp as to defy description, and the result is a baby-butt smooth shave, despite my unreasonably heavy facial hair.  I shave my head, usually with one of the wife's Soleil razors (hey, don't laugh until you've tried it!  They work awesome!), followed with a cleanup with the Merkur and a once-used-on-the-face Feather blade (to take the edge off, less nicks).
> 
> I'd love to see a razor handle from 3/8" stainless, about 3.5-4" long, with knurls in sections.  Something heavy and hefty, with plenty of grip and substance to keep ahold of for shaving the head.  That takes more control than shaving the face....
> 
> ...


I have been collecting vintage razors for years. I typically shave with a double edge these days, usually a Weber or Ikon.

I'll post up more later. Thanks


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## kvt (Feb 2, 2015)

They are about 7 inch line and the thin area is .090,  
made from .25 6061 alum 
I have normally been breaking them while trying to get the small area turned down to the .090 it is like it flexes just enough to break before you get there,  even with me taking less than .001 each pass
kvt


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## stainless (Feb 2, 2015)

Those look pretty tough to make in aluminum. Can you use a different metal?


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## kvt (Feb 2, 2015)

Yea,  In fact I am thinking of trying to make her some out of steal,   But not sure about them rusting,   The other option is to blue the steal to help a little, or use stainless but from what I have heard stainless is that it is worse to machine than the other stuff. Although it prob would not crack and break like the alum.   One thing that did that helped on the last one is I hand made a tool holder and then used some tool steal drill rod and made a few new small tools.  They seem to help but could still see the flex in the alum while turning it.  
but if I don't do something for her she will not help pay for things for me to play with any more (take my money and spend on something else) so I will try to do some things for her,   Problem is to make a set I have to make 10 to 20 of them, so I will keep trying.  
When I did machine work over 30 years ago it was all large stuff like head work on V8s, and cranks, cams etc.   This small stuff seems more difficult than that ever did.  Of course I was a lot younger then.   
  KVT


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## stainless (Feb 3, 2015)

303 stainless is supposed to be OK for the mini lathes. I'm looking to pick some up myself for razor handles.


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## stainless (Feb 4, 2015)

I made my first cutting tool the other day. A brass cutter. It works so much better than the chinese carbide tools that came with the lathe. Cuts easy and the finish is superb.

I have ordered some proper metal stock instead of using finds and hardware store stuff. Seems like cutoff pieces from ebay is the way to go if you don't want to spend $150.

I think my next addition will be a knurler. Trying to find an option to the sherline version, it looks terrible.


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## stainless (Feb 4, 2015)

ogberi said:


> I'd love to see a razor handle from 3/8" stainless, about 3.5-4" long, with knurls in sections.


This is exactly what I'm after personally. This is basically the Feather handle, but the Feather is a whopping $175 and the head is super mild. I found that Maggard has a Chinese made razor with a similar stainless handle, but the fit is very poor. 

The trend in razor handles is huge and heavy and I don't like them.


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## ogberi (Feb 4, 2015)

I'm not a fan of huge razors, but I do like some heft to them.  Not cinderblock heavy, but enough weight to smooth out the motions of shaving.  I had an old Gillette that was nice, and a cheapie with a plastic handle that I despised.  So far the 38c fits my needs pretty well.  It'll mow down a week's worth of stubble without clogging.  It could be a little more aggressive, though.


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