# Clausing 100 mk3 lathe



## COMachinist

Hi Everyone
Well thought I would start a thread on the 100 mk3 I bought the 3/11/14. I have million questions about the lathe. So first thing I may have spoke to soon about the taper attachment. What have I have is part of an Atlas taper attachment I have not been able to find the cross slide bar or the dove tail block for the cross slide or the block for the taper bar. If I can find the dimensions for the parts I can make them on the mill.  So far no luck on the internet. Next I have got  tools I have idea what they are we can have a little contest for a year or more where I post things and you can tell us what it is:thinking:. I have ordered a Clausing 100 mk 3 4800 manual from the place on Fleebay that sells reproduction manuals. He says it will cover about 99% of my lathe.
Next up I was playing around with the lathe and it has a forward/Rev switch, and yep you guess it right went to turn it off and rev, and chuck unthreaded. I was able to partly catch it with my free hand. I didn't ding the chuck or the bed ways. but my hand got dinged but good.:angry:
 Anyone know a fix for that? I know don't do that any more right.:nono:
So any help for now would be appreciated.
CH


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## hvontres

I think you have just discovered the major issue with threadded spindles. There are a few things you can do to minimize this:

1) Make sure the chuck is on really tight

2) Make sure the lathe is completely stopped before you reverse it.

The upside is that you chuck is not frozen onto the spindle, so you won't need to soak it in penetrant oil


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## Terrywerm

One fellow that I know solved his problem as follows:

1. Drill a 1/4" hole in the chuck backplate, drilling it crossways into the spindle thread
2. Tap the hole 5/16"-18
3. Mount the chuck on the spindle
4. Cut a piece of 1/4" diameter nylon rod, 1/4" long
5. Insert it in the newly created tapped hole in the chuck backplate.
6. Put a 5/16"-18 setscrew in behind the nylon rod.
7. Tighten the snot out of the setscrew.

The nylon will press firmly against the threads of the spindle without damaging them and will keep the chuck from spinning off of the spindle. The nylon will even misshape slightly to make a very capable locking device. Care must be used when removing the chuck to keep from losing the piece of nylon, however.

I have not yet tried this on mine as I only have a simple on/off toggle switch on my lathe, no reverse as yet, but I have used the same method to lock adjustment dials on machines. It locks them well enough that they will not move due to vibration, but can be moved with hand pressure if necessary. It would probably provide enough resistance to turning to keep the chuck from coming off of the spindle, too.


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## AlanR

You probably don't need to spend more money right now but this is another good reason for a VFD - soft start. It's surprising how much difference a 2 - 3 second ramp up time makes, the machine starts much more smoothly.


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## wa5cab

Do you have a 3-phase motor on the Clausing?

Robert D.


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## COMachinist

wa5cab said:


> Do you have a 3-phase motor on the Clausing?
> 
> Robert D.



Hi Robert
No I don't have a 3ph on it yet. I do have a 1.5hp 56c frame 3ph and a NES1-015SB Hitachi 2hp VFD. I have this same setup on my mill. I love the 3ph VFD flexibility and being able to change RPMs on the fly. I need to sit down design a lock for that chuck that will work. I was completely thrown off by that little event.hew: I have been searching the internet and have no seen any thing that would be long term workable solution. The nylon or delron padded set screw looks to be a short term fix, but I can see problem with it down the road. If I use a braking resistor on the VFD, then it could work loose I could really have a problem even with that. So I need to think long and hard able this.
 Found some backing plates from shar's 1 3/4x8tpi They have a couple sises for 11-12" lathes made of cast iron for a good price. I Think it would be good to pick some of those up befor they disappear.
CH


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## hvontres

COMachinist said:


> Hi Robert
> No I don't have a 3ph on it yet. I do have a 1.5hp 56c frame 3ph and a NES1-015SB Hitachi 2hp VFD. I have this same setup on my mill. I love the 3ph VFD flexibility and being able to change RPMs on the fly. I need to sit down design a lock for that chuck that will work. I was completely thrown off by that little event.hew: I have been searching the internet and have no seen any thing that would be long term workable solution. The nylon or delron padded set screw looks to be a short term fix, but I can see problem with it down the road. If I use a braking resistor on the VFD, then it could work loose I could really have a problem even with that. So I need to think long and hard able this.
> Found some backing plates from shar's 1 3/4x8tpi They have a couple sises for 11-12" lathes made of cast iron for a good price. I Think it would be good to pick some of those up befor they disappear.
> CH



Well, the lock for threadded chucks is going to be a bit of a head-scratcher. The solution the lathe manufactures came up with include the L series tapers (L-00,L-0,L-1 and L-2) followed by the short taper A and D mounts. The D style cam-lock is currently used on most new lathes. One possible solution could be to cut some slots into the threaded portoin of the backing plate and use a shaft collar to compress them down, locking up the threads. But that would only work on chucks that have a threadded boss sticking out of the back.


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## wa5cab

CH,

OK.  There was quite a long thread on this same subject on the Atlas_Craftsman Yahoo group recently.  The consensus (with maybe 15 different respondents) was that properly seated threaded chucks coming off isn't a problem unless you are threading or turning in reverse or manage to abruptly stop and reverse the spindle by any means other than running the carriage into the chuck.

Although probably not your problem, to properly seat a threaded chuck, you screw it on until it stops, back it up about an eighth of a turn, and spin it to stop.  It should ring or clunk.  If you then turn the chuck until the tightening socket is at about 12:00 and insert the T-wrench, it should take a good rapid jerk to break the threads loose.

However, if I'm reading your statement correctly, you went to turn the motor off but instead moved the switch past OFF to REV.  The motor reversed and the chuck came off, which isn't too surprising even if the chuck was properly seated.  The only explanation I can think of is a problem with the centrifugal switch in the motor.  A properly working single phase motor if suddenly reversed will continue to smoothly run in the same direction as before with no more than a few milliseconds hesitation.The reason is that with the centrifugal switch open, the motor will happily run in either direction with power applied to the run but not the start windings.  If the motor reversed, the switch had to be closed, which it doesn't normally do for at least half a second or more after power is removed unless there is enough load on the motor to stop it almost instantaneously. 

If I misunderstood what you wrote, let me know.

FWIW, there are switches that won't let you go from FWD directly to REV without releasing pressure on the toggle or lever as you pass through OFF.  Usually only used on 3-phase motors as they aren't normally needed on single phase ones and are quite a bit more expensive.  And there are also triple push button motor starters where you can't physically depress the REV button if the FWD one is depressed.  If either run button is depressed, the only one that will work is the OFF.

Robert D.


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## wa5cab

However, if you do need to run your threaded spindle machine in reverse and cut while it is doing so, you do need to lock the chuck to the spindle nose.  I recently bought a locking chuck that was made in Germany for one of the European built lathes.  The threaded nose of the backing plate is split in six places and has a locking collar around it.

Robert D.


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## hvontres

wa5cab said:


> However, if you do need to run your threaded spindle machine in reverse and cut while it is doing so, you do need to lock the chuck to the spindle nose.  I recently bought a locking chuck that was made in Germany for one of the European built lathes.  The threaded nose of the backing plate is split in six places and has a locking collar around it.
> 
> Robert D.



Damn, looks like somebody had my idea before me again


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## Pacer

What Robert D said ---

A threaded chuck shouldnt back off under routine uses - which in reality reversing is seldom used. The threads should be very clean - no chips, etc and the chuck should seat at the spindle with a very noticeable click/pop/clunk, using the method Robert described.

In my own experience and reading thousands of posts, this is just not a common problem. I recently rebuilt an old   13" Sheldon with threaded spindle and an 8" chuck. I added a VFD to it and using my standard 2-3 sec stop/start setting I could not get the chuck to come off.

Hopefully you just have a slightly worn backing plate and one of those new ones from shars will cure it.


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## COMachinist

wa5cab said:


> However, if you do need to run your threaded spindle machine in reverse and cut while it is doing so, you do need to lock the chuck to the spindle nose.  I recently bought a locking chuck that was made in Germany for one of the European built lathes.  The threaded nose of the backing plate is split in six places and has a locking collar around it.
> 
> Robert D.


Gee Robert
I guess like minds do think a lot a like I had the same thought just last night while tinkering around in the shop. My thought was to thread the outside of the backing plate boss with a NPT, split it, twice and use a collar to squeeze it down after seating the boss normally on the spindle nose. Most of the backing plates I have seen use a nice thick tread boss. Just my 2cents. I need to keep thinking on this. Does anyone make a replacement spindle for more modern chucks  and a larger center bore? With as many of these fine old machines floating around it might be worth doing something about this. No I don't need to thread left hand threads so turning backwards is not high on my bucket list. I just don't want to have a chuck come off again, unless I want it to. Right now I'm doing some cleaning and lubing getting ready to set the lathe in it's place. I'll get some pix up of the lathe when it ready for use.
Take care for now
CH

- - - Updated - - -



hvontres said:


> Damn, looks like somebody had my idea before me again


LOL my thought as well)
CH

- - - Updated - - -



Pacer said:


> What Robert D said ---
> 
> A threaded chuck shouldnt back off under routine uses - which in reality reversing is seldom used. The threads should be very clean - no chips, etc and the chuck should seat at the spindle with a very noticeable click/pop/clunk, using the method Robert described.
> 
> In my own experience and reading thousands of posts, this is just not a common problem. I recently rebuilt an old   13" Sheldon with threaded spindle and an 8" chuck. I added a VFD to it and using my standard 2-3 sec stop/start setting I could not get the chuck to come off.
> 
> Hopefully you just have a slightly worn backing plate and one of those new ones from shars will cure it.



Sound like good advise. I want be using the Dayton FRW/REV switch that is on it now, when I get VFD on and use soft starts.
Thanks 
CH


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## COMachinist

Hi All
 New day new problem I was cleaning and adjusting the compound slide today and found out the point of the cutter was at center wit slide (perpendicular) to lathe axis, then set 45deg left it was +.005 high and 45 to left it was about .005 low. So I took off the compound and disassembled it and found some looseness and wear on the machined surfaces. I decided to hand scrap ever thing back to flat, square and parallel and flaked the surfaces to hole lube, replace the gib, and now every thing is tight and square and parallel. And it looks great.  Sorry I didn't take any pix of the job it 21deg and 40-50mph winds out today. I'll snap pix of it when it warms up a bit.:drink2:
Top of the day to all
CH


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## COMachinist

Hi All 
I know this is trivial, but here is my hand scraped compound slide. I also have a question, what are the back gears and lever for on a series100 mk 3 and how are they used? I have Clausing reprint manual for a 100 mk3 4800 but it don't say much about the back gears and what they are used for?
Thank
CH


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## COMachinist

Hi
Well got the back gear thing figured out. The old leather V belt was so loose it would not drive any setups very well slipped a lot. Put on one of the HF Link Belts and thing seam to work much better. So yep got he back gears work right now. Got the slide gear figured out and the feed direction lever worked out. Feed rate and thread selection. still tring to get my head around cross feed, I know the cross feed rate is 3/10th to 1. but that pull push knob is strange.:nuts: Looking for a larger 3 jaw chuck all I have now is 6" which is ok, but but will need a bigger chuck, 8-10". I checked Fleebay and saw an 8" Westcott but it looked used and abused. I think I'll try to find a Buffalo or a factory chuck that is in good shape. Your input is appreciated.
Have a Good weekend all.
CH


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## COMachinist

Hi All Got the Lathe all setup and have used it to make a few things that I need. Now just trying new tools and things 
I got with it.
I have 5C collet holder, and it works great problem is it needs tuning up it has way to much run out so I will be using the info from the chuck tune up thread to it on the usable side.
I also got this with the lathe and have no idea what it would be used for I know it is some kind of Collet holder but this collet does not come out and I can't really figure it out. The out side sleeve moves forward and back on the piece that holds the collet. The inside threads are 2.187 which is like 2 3/16 and the threaded collar is threaded out side to screw in to the collet holder and the inside of the collar is threaded to mount on my 1 1/2"x8tpi spindle on the Clausing. Any ideas what this may be? Collet is stamped .588 and the holder is stamped Huff**** CO. Los Angeles Pat Pend. no number. There is a number 1248 but that number looks to have been the tool room number because the threaded collar has the same number scribed on it as well. The Holder fits my Clausing but Can't figure it out?????
Thanks
CH


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## COMachinist

Well I guess no one else has seen one of these either, which makes me feel less stupid. Oh well it's kind of useless, unless your part is  .588. no big loss. I have thought about it and it could be from a scrap yard or some place. I figured it is a part production die and was most likely air actuated, the outer sleeve has a grove in it for a yoke or fingers to pull it rearward tightening the collet when held. I'm just guessing here and don't really know, this to be a fact. Thanks everyone for looking. I may try to deconstruct it to see how it works and why the collet will not come out. The collet has no threads on it or in it like a 5c. When I get some more info I'll post it here.
Thanks all
CH:allgood:


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## 34_40

I haven't seen one of those either!  But I think you're right about how it is actuated, either air or hydraulics probably ran the closer for a high production type setup.

just a guess..:roflmao:


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## COMachinist

Hi All been running the Clausing with out any problems so far. I just really like this lathe. I found one of these for the threaded chuck. I have not tried it but this should work if the threaded back plate is split a little ways down. It has not been a problem but just incase. I know a fix for some thing that does not need fixing, right) Any way this is what I came up with.
Have a good one.
CH


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## Newmetalmark

I'll be watching this thread with interest, I have a 100 Series Model 110 Mk3a with the heavier apron that ended up on the 200 and 6300 lathes. It's waiting patiently for me to restore it, but I haven't been able to get near my metalworking machines for 4 months. Sigh. Work sucks.


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## wa5cab

CH,

I recently acquired a German made 3-jaw chuck that has a clamp similar to the one you bought built into it.  When I get time, I'll take and post a couple of photos.  Like you, I bought it JIC.

Robert D.


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## Splat

This is from a post by "daveycrocket" on the <another> forum  about using a shaft collar to help ensure a chuck will not spin loose  upon reversing the spindle:

"At the time I mentioned that in a Horology course workshop we had 3   Schaublin 102 lathes . On all chucks, there was a steel split collar   round the protruding collar on the backside of the chuck backplate .   There was a socket head screw through the split which when tightened   against the protruding collar on the backside of the backplate, locked   the backplate securely on the spindle nose thread/register.  Whilst it   might not work on lesser wellfitting backplates /registers, on our   Schaublins, the fit of  backplate to threaded nose/register was so close   that when that Socket headed screw was tightened, there was no way  that  backplate was going to screw off when the spindle was in reverse,  nor  even when the lathe was in forward and the footbrake stopped the  spindle  pretty dam quick. In 8 years in the workshop, I never once saw a  chuck  come off when it was not supposed to. ! If someone had just told  me it  worked and I had not experienced it myself I would have doubted  that  those thick projections on the backside of the backplate would  crush  enough to grip the spindle thread/register ."


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## COMachinist

Newmetalmark said:


> I'll be watching this thread with interest, I have a 100 Series Model 110 Mk3a with the heavier apron that ended up on the 200 and 6300 lathes. It's waiting patiently for me to restore it, but I haven't been able to get near my metalworking machines for 4 months. Sigh. Work sucks.



Hi 
Lucky dog I wish I had an apron like that. That push/Pull power feed makes me nervous. I had it in to face the end of a shaft and when I pulled it out to stop it, it went just far enough forward  to drive cairage toward the head stock. The tool was back of far enough so it didn't hit anything. When I stop it now I just back off the clutch also. Still getting used to it.
Happy Machining
CH


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## 34_40

COMachinist said:


> That push/Pull power feed makes me nervous. I had it in to face the end of a shaft and when I pulled it out to stop it, it went just far enough forward  to drive cairage toward the head stock. The tool was back of far enough so it didn't hit anything. When I stop it now I just back off the clutch also. Still getting used to it.
> CH




The push / pull as you're calling it is used to set direction only. It isn't intended to act as a clutch because as you just experienced, it can engage the cross feed or longitudinal feed.

Just to the right of that "button" there should be a small handwheel or lever.  Not the half nut lever!  That is the clutch and when you turn the handle counter clock wise the clutch is out or open.  Turning it to the right or clockwise closes or engages the clutch.  The clutch itself is a cone shaped device with a couple pins.  I had a devil of a time getting mine to work reliably.  It's in the book and I can share what Clausing sent me if you need it.


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## Latinrascalrg1

Hello My Name is Rick and im new to the site.  I just recently became the new owner of a beautiful  old Lathe. Its a Clausing 100 MK3 version 1 (100 mk3A)  My new to me Lathe is missing a few items that im looking for some help with. First  thing is my Name plate and Gear data plate are missing but if i could get a few nice quality pictures I have a Contact person that has the capability to "Reprint" these missing plates for me with the possibility of  making them available to others that are also missing these plates. 

The second thing i have a question about what i believe is called  the Clutch lever.  My machine came with an aftermarket 110v reversible motor in place of the original.  So my clutch lever is missing leaving an empty home in the cover.   What was the purpose of this lever?  I think it has something to do with fine tuning the v-belt to help with slippage.   Could someone either point me to the correct page that has this info if available or better yet if i could get some pictures of the inside of the cover where the clutch lever operates and what it does. And certainly not the last issue im sure but I'm having a problem either understanding how the powered compound is engaged or my machine needs adjustment. I can only engage the split nut when the powered crossfeed mechanism is in "neutral."  If the system is engaged and the knob is either completely  pushed in or completely pulled out i cannot close the split nut which is needed in order to drive the process!  The star shaped "clutch" handle turns freely if the definition of "freely " means that pending which position, pushed in or pulled out, the knob is in, turning the star clutch handle would either move the entire carriage left or right if say pushed in (dont remember which did which, will need to recheck) or if pulled out then turning the star knob will either advance or withdrawal the crossfeed.  These actions are only capable  doing by hand because  of my inability to engage the split nut when needed!
Any info you could add would be greatly appreciated add in trying to learn everything i can about this Lathe. 
Thanks
Rick


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## wa5cab

Rick,

First, the fact that you cannot engage the half nuts when the longitudinal or cross feed is engaged is the way the thing is supposed to work.  On the Clausing 100 (or Atlas/Clausing 4800), the half nuts are only used for threading.  The longitudinal and cross feeds are driven by a hollow bevel gear or worm gear (depending upon which apron you have) that is driven by an internal key which rides in the long slot in the lead screw.  If you could engage both at the same time, you would immediately break something.

I'm not familiar with the Clausing 100 or 4800 so can't answer your other question.  There is a Clausing 100 and a 4800 manual in DOWNLOADS.  I'm not sure that either one matches a MK 3 but have a look and let me know.  The 100 manuals shows more than one QCGB and more than one apron.  So maybe one of them does match.  If you figure it out, let me know.


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## Latinrascalrg1

Wa5cab

Thank you so much for your reply.  I was sent 2 different manuals since i posted my last post and both of them are actually very helpful with getting better aquainted with my new to me lathe.  I will take a few days reading them over and will definitely  post up more questions as i come to them.

As for the half nuts and crossfeed issue im happy to hear that what i described is how it should work only i haven't figured out the "working" aspet yet, lol, im sure i will figure it out now that i have the 2 manuals.

If someone has the clausing 100 mk3 version 1 that has an intact and readable gear box info plate i could really use a very good clear straight on picture of the plate.  I have a contact that has the ability to print-engrave a copy.  This Gentleman wishing to first try and make me a copy to see how they come out and if all should go good then he may be willing and able to make more for others that are in The same boat i am!  So if you are able to help it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Rick


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## 34_40

I've got a Model 108.  I think it should be the same as yours.  Or, pretty close anyway.
If your interested still, I'll snap a photo or two for you.


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## Latinrascalrg1

Yes i am absolutely interested although i think my machine is the 111. Here are a few pictures  of my machine and maybe you guys with more experience and knowledge can tell me for sure which model it is.
Thanks
Rick 
	

		
			
		

		
	




Ok so i posted up the last 2 pictures shown (labeled pics 11 and 12) in the group that somehow got mixed in with pictures that were posted by other members shown below in yhe "Attached Files" link below.


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## 34_40

They look a lot alike to me.  I do see some differences in things like the handles.
Mine has the tray while yours doesn't. the legs look the same. Mine doesn't have the clutch up top either.
I am scheduled to work late tomorrow so it'll be more like Wednesday before I can get into the shop.

I'll snap some pics for you.


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## Latinrascalrg1

One of the key items that i supposed  could be a replacement but looks original is the threaded gear box change lever that goes on top of the qcgb. The second model 100 mk3B (i believe was the correct designation, the one that atlas renamed when they took over Clausing in 1945) has a cast handle that does not have any way of attaching a knob to it, it has a flat elongated teardropish shape to it.  Where as my lathe has a 3 inch or so piece of 1/4ish Rod that is threaded on the end for what was originally a black ball knob which mine is missing.  My lathe has the spot for the "clutch lever" and i even have the lever in the milk ceate that came with the lathe just none of the clutch guts.  I'm assuming there was no longer a need after the motor was changed but i also think that it had more to do with the belt tensioning and if so my lathe could definitely  benefit from having that ability back!  No big rush on the pictures, I'm just happy someone is willing to share with and help educate my on the subject.
Thank You Very Much 34-40


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## BriancCc

I have a 100 with the clutch. The countershaft has brackets allow adjusting the belt tension. The clutch yoke also has adjusters so it can be adjusted once the belt tension is set. The clutch yoke is adjustable to account for change to the countershaft and does not play a part in belt tension.

I find the clutch useful but I would just put the switch in a more accessible place if I didn't have it. Throwing the clutch lever toward the tail of the lathe engages a brake, which is really useful.

I have a manual for a 100-1 and it has a page for the gear box that says "For lathes between Serial Nos. 1063 and 3400" with a knob like what you describe.


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## Latinrascalrg1

I see in mine where the drive spindle is adjustable but i have no idea about the clutch.
The schematic you posted of the gearbox is what i have.  Ill have to see if i can find the serial number on it, i understand that it was stamped into the underside of the tail stock and somewhere between the ways near tail stock end, is this correct?


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## 34_40

The serial number can be found on the ways, far right , top is the usual place and also on the tailstock data plate with the model number.
Want me to get a picture of this location also?


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## BriancCc

The manual I have also shows the countershaft with a clutch and a plain bearing countershaft that lacks a clutch. Maybe diagram will help you find the parts that are missing from your 100.


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## 34_40

I just noticed that COMachinist started this thread, my apologies if this annoys him,  Latinrascalrg1, here's some pics that may help.  If you think one of them might help you and want the full sized pic. Just ask.


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## 34_40

And the next set.  Hope it helps.


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## krash22

Hello, I was interested to see the original post for this thread because I was about to post something similar about my own Clausing 100 mk. II. I got it about 10 years ago as a gift via a friend's neighbor's deceased uncle, and it came with just about every available Clausing accessory, unsorted in boxes, including many purpose-made attachments with handwritten instructions. I started using it without any planning or preparation, but lately I've been sorting through the boxes. Here's my first question -- does anyone have images (photo or diagram) of the official Clausing taper attachment for this Clausing model? I've got at least some parts of it but I don't know whether I've got all of it. All advice and information greatly appreciated.
Charlie Koster
San Gabriel, CA


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## Latinrascalrg1

I Too apologize to the threads OP, i only intended to meet a few people with similar  interests and learn a few things about this lathe but it looks as if I took over!

34_40. Thank you very much for the pics. It looks as if you have the second version of my machine, it has the flat teardrop cast gearbox lever.


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## 34_40

As I said earlier,  if the data plate seems helpful and something you can work with, let me know if you want the original - it has more pixels / size.

Krash22 - you have a taper attachment???  Now pics will be required!  They are so rare, I've never seen a complete one!   Much less use one!


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## 34_40

One final imposition to COMachinist...  some have asked for pics of my collet setup.  So here we go.  Hope it helps.


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## 34_40

I guess I should've set a pair of impositions..   1 more set, if you want the full size versions.. just holler!


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## Fortis64

Very interesting thread ,I have a Fortis 4800 MB, serial No... E/801/B, Clausing 100 mk3  derived .If i can suss out how to post pictures on here I will post some up ... If you look at my aviator ,that's when I first took  delivery of it . Up till now it's been an awesome lathe . The cast iron cabinets are about 3/4" thick seriously heavy ,I have to drag them on plywood strips for about 30 yards to my workshop. I think total weight is around the 450-500lbs . Anyways I hope this thread keeps going .... 

Merry Xmas 
Sean


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## krash22

The taper attachment I have appears to be only mostly complete.  It resembles the 7515 taper attachment, but it's missing the shaft, the taper adjusting screw, the cross feed lock bolt, the gib, the upper slide, and the nut holder assembly.  In addition, the taper slide isn't graduated on either end. (These names are from the 7515 Installation and Operating Instructions dated 1953, which is about 10 years more recent than the lathe itself).  The nuts and bolts all look a little different than those illustrated in the 7515 publication.  I may still find some or all of the parts that are missing, but probably not.  I'll post some photos.


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