# Newby heavy ten rebuild question



## Kujo929 (Mar 3, 2013)

Newby bought my first lathe. A SB heavy 10 serial #9826RKL14. Think it's probably 50's era from what people said when I put up the pic before buying it. 



Anyway I just got it disassembled into sub assemblies and moved to workshop to start rebuild. I just received my rebuild book,kit,and recommended oils from eBay. 



My question to those who have already done this is, did you basically follow the manual straight through or is some of it extraneous for a working machine?  I bought this for projects and light gunsmithing and certainly don't need a pretty machine. I just want to make sure I'm taking good care of it but if I can get it in service faster by cutting out parts of the rebuild kit that would be preferred. It was running before we unhooked it and loaded it up. He had been putting oil in the fill cups but i doubt anything else. The previous owner was using it for making race car parts only and had ever even used the threading gearbox.  



The whole thing appears to have 50 years of grease and grime but will hopefully be decent when cleaned up. 





On a side note, I had to separate the belt to disassemble it and have not found what I should use to reattach the belt together. It appeared to be some type of cord or thread run through the hooks but I couldn't tell for sure. 




I asked this on practical machinist also but thought I may get some more rebuild advice here. 



Thanks

Rob


----------



## Splat (Mar 3, 2013)

Welcome to the forum, Rob! On my belt there is a metal pin slid into those hooks on the belt that keeps it together. As for the rebuild, it's not that bad at all. There might be a few things done differently on yours compared to others' lathes but overall they're about the same. I'm sure any questions you might have can be answered here, and if not maybe the Heavy 10 Yahoo group. You did right getting the repair manual and associated kit. I'm glad I got it too. Take pics of anything before disassembling that you think you might get confused on for rebuild. Just take your time with the teardown and rebuild and you'll be ok. Have fun. It's a satisfying endeavor.


----------



## Kujo929 (Mar 3, 2013)

Splat,

Thanks for the advice. If you get a chance could you send me a photo of the pin in your belt ?  Mine was a cord of some type but was so deteriorated I couldn't tell what it was. Has to cut it with a box knife to get it out. 

I just finished tearing down and cleaning out a Rockwell mill. So I'm not quite as scared of it as I was before but I think the Rockwell is going to be a piece of cake compared to this thing. 

This may be a stupid question but when you had grime competed parts did you just degrease them and wipe them off or use water to wash off the degreasing agent and then blow them dry?


----------



## woodtickgreg (Mar 4, 2013)

My advice is to do one component at a time, I would definitely replace all the wicks, after fifty years they will be hard and packed with crud. The wicks are important to properly deliver oil to crucial parts of the machine. Change the spindle wicks, they are the most important. Go through the apron, that is probably the most time consuming but there's a lot of moving parts in there that need oil from the wicks. The apron will probably need a good cleaning. Don't use water to clean it, mineral spirits are cheap and relatively safe, low flash point, just blow it off and oil the parts after they are clean. A plastic tub with a lid can be a make shift parts cleaner on the cheap. get some cheap stiff plastic or brass brushes to scrub the crud off. Even if you don't want to take the time to paint it, take it apart and clean it, replace the wicks. You will find that with the book these old south bends are really quite easy to work on. When you get her all done and she's oiling properly, you'll be glad you did it.
Funny thing is when I got mine all I was gonna do was replace the wicks, look what happened to me! LOL


----------



## Splat (Mar 4, 2013)

Kujo929 said:


> Splat, Thanks for the advice. If you get a chance  could you send me a photo of the pin in your belt ?  Mine was a cord of  some type but was so deteriorated I couldn't tell what it was. Has to  cut it with a box knife to get it out.  (edit)  This may be a stupid  question but when you had grime competed parts did you just degrease  them and wipe them off or use water to wash off the degreasing agent and  then blow them dry?



I'll have to do that tonight, but it's simply a metal dowel pin. You may find them at your local Ace hardware store. As for cleaning, Gregg already said it all, but I used acetone as well as degreaser mixed together, then cleaned with water and wiped dry with paper towels ensuring no lint left behind.


----------



## Kujo929 (Mar 4, 2013)

Does the dowel have to have a tight press fit in or does the belt tension just keep it from working out?


----------



## ScrapMetal (Mar 4, 2013)

Just belt tension.  Mine is a pretty loose fit.

-Ron


----------



## mrtechnologist2u (Mar 5, 2013)

Originally the pin was a strip of cat gut. (Looks like a tiny chew toy)  Later it was a piece of wire with a polymer coating that deformed with pressure to prevent it from slipping out.  Mine came with a small cotter pin inserted by the previous owner and trimmed to fit.  That seems to work fine, I havent replaced it yet.

I just obtained a vise, stiching press with a whack of lacings and pins. ($35)  So I may even replace the belt some day!


----------

