# Tips on hand machining with a cold chisel.



## Koi (Jun 19, 2019)

This is a problem I'm having when using a cold chisel.I'm attempting to put a slot on a steel plate but it seems like I'm only chipping away some metal and after a few cut,it looks like a disaster.Any tips on doing that.


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## ThinWoodsman (Jun 19, 2019)

I made a project of cutting a v-slot in a tooling plate using hand tools. No, it is not finished yet, but it is coming along surprisingly well given how badly it all started out.

I started the slot with a hacksaw, then used a cape chisel to widen it, then used square files to form the V. The chisel did not work well; chips would snap off before they even got to an inch long. The steel plate is some of that 1/4" mystery stuff they sell at the hardware store, and is much harder than I expected it to be.

You might try using a file or hacksaw to score the line for the slot, as that will break through the skin of the metal which may be hard. Also, clamp some pieces of wood to either side, making a guide about the width of the chisel. I didn't do this, and marked up the tooling plate something ugly.

I haven't seen any soid advice on the angle for the chisel. It's always "too large an angle from the surface and the chisel won't cut; too small an angle and the chisel will get dull fast". Maybe hone the chisel on a stone and try a smaller angle?

EDIT: This guy appears to be using a 45 degree angle.


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## savarin (Jun 19, 2019)

When chiseling out some slots in 3/8 mild steel plate I drilled the holes first then held it in the vise with the jaws to the line so I could use them as the chisel guide.
The chisel went along the slot at a 45' angle.
The metal came off surprisingly easy and the chisel never caught the jaws because of their hardness.


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## Koi (Jun 19, 2019)

Will a wood chisel that is hardened be used as a cold chisel since it has a flat under unlike a cold chisel having bevel angle at the edge


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## bhigdog (Jun 19, 2019)

Chisels were once the  primary tools used for metal cutting, machining, as it were. It is a lost art perfected only with time and practice. I'm guessing there are a fair number of people proficient in the craft in some third world countries. Here not so much...............Bob


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## Bob Korves (Jun 19, 2019)

Koi said:


> Will a wood chisel that is hardened be used as a cold chisel since it has a flat under unlike a cold chisel having bevel angle at the edge


A wood chisel has a narrow angle which leads to a thin and delicate blade.  It is not robust enough to hold up to cutting steel.   A cape chisel would be the correct tool for the job.





						cape chisel - Search
					






					www.bing.com


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## markba633csi (Jun 19, 2019)

Check the steel with a file for hardness,  if it can be filed it can be chiseled


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## Canus (Jun 20, 2019)

Start with the correct chisel for the job (cape chisel) ensuring it is properly sharpened.  Position the chisel at the correct angle, not too shallow or too deep.  Proceed slowly until proficiency achieved.


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## matthewsx (Jun 20, 2019)

Do you have access to a dremel tool?




If you can get something like this with small cutoff wheels you can cut the outline of your hole and chisel from there. 

An oscillating saw like this might also be useful for making plunge cuts with the right blades.




I know this doesn’t address your question directly but both these tools are relatively cheap and have earned their keep in my shop. 

Along with a good selection of quality cold chisels 

Cheers,

John


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## benmychree (Jun 20, 2019)

Do not expect to make long chips with a hand hammered chisel, it can be done with a pneumatic chipping gun, at least relatively long chips can be made.


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## ericc (Jun 20, 2019)

I once chiseled a 1" square hardy hole in a stake plate.  It took about 3 months.  It can be done, but there are few resources on the Internet telling how to do it.  It seems that in the old days, most chiseling ("chipping") was done on cast iron, which was substantially softer than the steel you are probably trying to use.  From what I read, it is important to hit the correct angle.  Too steep, and the chisel digs in.  Too shallow and it glances off, and you make no progress.  Try to keep the chip going, and keep it small and thin.  Sharpen the chisel as soon as it gets dull, otherwise you are wasting time dinging metal.  Also, if you are hitting the chisel hard enough, it is going to produce a lot of noise.  Unless you can control the noise, it will make neighbors mad.  Hearing protection is a must.  Unless the slot is small, I would recommend doing it hot, or making a tiny belt sander that uses 1/2" belts.  This will be a lot easier.  This kind of hammering can lead to repetitive motion injuries.  Do not do it in long stretches, else you will become incapacitated for weeks.  Do a little every now and then, and it will give you plenty of time to think about it.  After a few weeks of pounding, you will want to check out an Alec Steele video and do it hot.


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## Koi (Jun 20, 2019)

So you use a Dremel as a makeshift  mill


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## Koi (Jun 20, 2019)

ericc said:


> I once chiseled a 1" square hardy hole in a stake plate.  It took about 3 months.  It can be done, but there are few resources on the Internet telling how to do it.  It seems that in the old days, most chiseling ("chipping") was done on cast iron, which was substantially softer than the steel you are probably trying to use.  From what I read, it is important to hit the correct angle.  Too steep, and the chisel digs in.  Too shallow and it glances off, and you make no progress.  Try to keep the chip going, and keep it small and thin.  Sharpen the chisel as soon as it gets dull, otherwise you are wasting time dinging metal.  Also, if you are hitting the chisel hard enough, it is going to produce a lot of noise.  Unless you can control the noise, it will make neighbors mad.  Hearing protection is a must.  Unless the slot is small, I would recommend doing it hot, or making a tiny belt sander that uses 1/2" belts.  This will be a lot easier.  This kind of hammering can lead to repetitive motion injuries.  Do not do it in long stretches, else you will become incapacitated for weeks.  Do a little every now and then, and it will give you plenty of time to think about it.  After a few weeks of pounding, you will want to check out an Alec Steele video and do it hot.


This kind if chisel?


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## Koi (Jun 20, 2019)

Will a cold chisel make a cleaner  cut or a wood chisel  assuming they have the same hardness to cut steel but with the difference of the shape ending with different result.


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## Bob Korves (Jun 20, 2019)

Koi said:


> Will a cold chisel make a cleaner  cut or a wood chisel  assuming they have the same hardness to cut steel but with the difference of the shape ending with different result.


A wood chisel is made for cutting wood.  It will be destroyed trying to use it to make significant cuts in steel.  The very hard and thin metal and shallow included angles on a wood chisel are going to crumble in use.  The handle is not intended for the heavy blows needed to cut steel.  You do not need to believe us, Koi, get one and give it a try.  Let us know how it works out.


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## Koi (Jun 20, 2019)

Bob Korves said:


> A wood chisel is made for cutting wood.  It will be destroyed trying to use it to make significant cuts in steel.  The very hard and thin metal and shallow included angles on a wood chisel are going to crumble in use.  The handle is not intended for the heavy blows needed to cut steel.  You do not need to believe us, Koi, get one and give it a try.  Let us know how it works out.


Can I make a cold chisel to have a flat under   until where my hands grip. Will that improve the cut.I'm assuming it will focus all the hammering force in the same direction I hit unlike a commercial made  Cold chisel.


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## francist (Jun 20, 2019)

Suitably (or perhaps frustratingly, depending on your point of view) is this excerpt from The Starrett Book for Machinists' Apprentices, a truly wonderful book that I forget to refer to as often as I would like. Alas, no numbers provided for angles of attack, and the illustration makes the process look oh so casual. Different times, to be sure.

-frank


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## Bob Korves (Jun 20, 2019)

I already told you that one.  Cape chisel.


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## ericc (Jun 20, 2019)

Koi, use the cold chisel. The wood chisel's edge will break if you use it on steel. But maybe you should try it. I did. Best to do it with a cheap garage sale one, since you will ruin it. Wear safety glasses. You can often find cold chisel suitable for your use for a dollar or less at a garage sale. Sharpen several, and feel how they wear. How long have you actually been working on the slot (as opposed to planning, discussing and shopping)?


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## Cooter Brown (Jun 20, 2019)




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## Koi (Jun 21, 2019)

Bob Korves said:


> I already told you that one.  Cape chisel.


But I want the edge to be .Instead of pointy.
Sorry for the late reply I was busy


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## Koi (Jun 21, 2019)

Cooter Brown said:


>


Hey cooter brown seen that before .That is nearly the type of chisel I was describing but it's a bit narrow at the cutting edge and that is iron but what if it's steel ,how am I gonna profile it with a chisel


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## Koi (Jun 21, 2019)

ericc said:


> Koi, use the cold chisel. The wood chisel's edge will break if you use it on steel. But maybe you should try it. I did. Best to do it with a cheap garage sale one, since you will ruin it. Wear safety glasses. You can often find cold chisel suitable for your use for a dollar or less at a garage sale. Sharpen several, and feel how they wear. How long have you actually been working on the slot (as opposed to planning, discussing and shopping)?


I have work on it for some time but makes me feel frustrated.The work just doesnt turn out as I  expect but I find the file easier to use and things always turns out to be 99% what u expect it to be though there's just shape and profile you can't do with a file like putting a square hole or a square at the side of a piece of steel


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## NortonDommi (Jun 21, 2019)

I have a collection of cold chisels from little tiny ones to great big ones. There are many different and specialised chisels for metal and and used well the cut metal fast and accurately.  Cutting a slot is easiest in a vice after drilling a few holes.  A wood chisel is only good on metal for cleaning off gasket material.
  Have a read of this: start at page 5.


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## Koi (Jun 21, 2019)

ThinWoodsman said:


> I made a project of cutting a v-slot in a tooling plate using hand tools. No, it is not finished yet, but it is coming along surprisingly well given how badly it all started out.
> 
> I started the slot with a hacksaw, then used a cape chisel to widen it, then used square files to form the V. The chisel did not work well; chips would snap off before they even got to an inch long. The steel plate is some of that 1/4" mystery stuff they sell at the hardware store, and is much harder than I expected it to be.
> 
> ...


That's what happened to me chip snaps of even before it gets an inch


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## ThinWoodsman (Jun 21, 2019)

One of the old books I was reading mentioned using cutting oil when chiseling steel. Maybe I'll give that a go when I'm in the shop this afternoon, try out some good sulfurized cutting oil on some scrap.



ericc said:


> Also, if you are hitting the chisel hard enough, it is going to produce a lot of noise. Unless you can control the noise, it will make neighbors mad.



I may have not been hitting the chisel hard enough when at a lower angle. My nearest neighbors are a quarter mile away through the woods, so maybe I'll whack the thing hard enough to make the complain 



NortonDommi said:


> Have a read of this: start at page 5.



Koi, Mayhew makes cape chisels: Mayhew cape chisels
Not sure where you would find them in Malaysia but there should be a regional manufacturer making an equivalent.


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## Koi (Jun 21, 2019)

ThinWoodsman said:


> One of the old books I was reading mentioned using cutting oil when chiseling steel. Maybe I'll give that a go when I'm in the shop this afternoon, try out some good sulfurized cutting oil on some scrap.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


For now I haven't come across any cape chisel but a cold one is dirt common though I can make one by building a forge but for now I think should focus on getting a round column mill drill. hasta la Vista baby hand machining.


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## Koi (Jun 21, 2019)

NortonDommi said:


> I have a collection of cold chisels from little tiny ones to great big ones. There are many different and specialised chisels for metal and and used well the cut metal fast and accurately.  Cutting a slot is easiest in a vice after drilling a few holes.  A wood chisel is only good on metal for cleaning off gasket material.
> Have a read of this: start at page 5.


Thanks that's a lot


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## markba633csi (Jun 21, 2019)

Koi: you can make square holes, you need a square file for that. There are also round and triangle shapes, plus flat and half-round
My most used files are half-round and rat-tail (thin round) files
Mark
ps you also need a good vise to hold your workpieces


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## markba633csi (Jun 21, 2019)

If you get a mill/drill your chiselling days will be numbered I am fairly sure
Keep your files though, filing is always needed sometime, somewhere
Do you have a small lathe?  How difficult to find machine tools in Malaysia?


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## Koi (Jun 22, 2019)

markba633csi said:


> If you get a mill/drill your chiselling days will be numbered I am fairly sure
> Keep your files though, filing is always needed sometime, somewhere
> Do you have a small lathe?  How difficult to find machine tools in Malaysia?


It's very common but mostly in mould making or engineering shop etc where people make bussines out of it instead of taking it as a hobby.Trust me when I said It ,i might be the only few people in malaysia who take it as a hobby.And yeah there's shop dedicated in selling machine tools but they are always hidden away in industrial site and not very visit friendly though.Anyway I will still keep my machining center tool box cuz when civilization fall they are much easier to carry around and need no power source except some elbow grease and a brain.


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## matthewsx (Jun 22, 2019)

Koi said:


> So you use a Dremel as a makeshift  mill



Yes, A Dremel is relatively cheap and there are many different bits available for it. You will have at least as much precision as with a cold chisel.


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## markba633csi (Jun 22, 2019)

Sounds like you could have a machine shipped from China,  a great deal of machines are made there
I'm sure there are many Chinese machines in Cambodia and Vietnam,  perhaps you could purchase a used machine from there


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## Koi (Jun 26, 2019)

markba633csi said:


> Sounds like you could have a machine shipped from China,  a great deal of machines are made there
> I'm sure there are many Chinese machines in Cambodia and Vietnam,  perhaps you could purchase a used machine from there


Why.we do have shops dealing with machine tools.But I know one because everything can been seen even from the outside.I have visited his shop once but only saw his worker sitting in front of the computer mustb be dealing with cnc stuff and he has a very heavy Beijing chinese accent unlike malaysian Chinese and I can hardly hear him .(just saying)


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## Downunder Bob (Jun 26, 2019)

Koi, the art of using a chisel to cut steel is as old as steel itself. The early craftsmen quickly found out that woodworking tools were not heavy enough for steel, however the technique is similar. 

If you have a forge or even an oxy set you can make a good chisel out of an old car axle and springs, after hardening draw the temper so you can just file it. this will then cut any steel that you can file. Then practice, practice until you can get the result you need.

As mentioned before cut two thin slots with a dremel type tool slightly less than the width of the groove you want then using the chisel cut out the material between the slots, and finish with a file.


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## Koi (Jun 28, 2019)

Downunder Bob said:


> Koi, the art of using a chisel to cut steel is as old as steel itself. The early craftsmen quickly found out that woodworking tools were not heavy enough for steel, however the technique is similar.
> 
> If you have a forge or even an oxy set you can make a good chisel out of an old car axle and springs, after hardening draw the temper so you can just file it. this will then cut any steel that you can file. Then practice, practice until you can get the result you need.
> 
> As mentioned before cut two thin slots with a dremel type tool slightly less than the width of the groove you want then using the chisel cut out the material between the slots, and finish with a file.


Just made a makeshift forge burner .Made a hole with the die grinder as for the stove like thingy ,I got it from the cabinet It was rusting so I'm assuming no one's using it.slid in a holed cover at an angle so the charcoal won't come from the hole and 
end up burning the hair dryer that I'm going to use as my blower


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## Downunder Bob (Jun 28, 2019)

Koi said:


> Just made a makeshift forge burner .Made a hole with the die grinder as for the stove like thingy ,I got it from the cabinet It was rusting so I'm assuming no one's using it.slid in a holed cover at an angle so the charcoal won't come from the hole and
> end up burning the hair dryer that I'm going to use as my blower



There you go, a quick, cheap homemade forge. All you have to do is find a disused car drive axle, or old spring even a torsion bar will work well, and make yourself a decent cold chisel. After hardening it, don't forget to draw the temper back to a medium straw colour, will depend a little bit on the steel. A good final check is if you can just file it, with a good sharp file, it's good to go.


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## bhigdog (Jun 28, 2019)

I tried to use a dremel tool to cut a slot once. The first hammer blow broke it to pieces.................


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## matthewsx (Jun 28, 2019)

Koi said:


> Just made a makeshift forge burner .Made a hole with the die grinder as for the stove like thingy ,I got it from the cabinet It was rusting so I'm assuming no one's using it.slid in a holed cover at an angle so the charcoal won't come from the hole and
> end up burning the hair dryer that I'm going to use as my blower



We need video of you using that thing


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## Koi (Jun 30, 2019)

matthewsx said:


> We need video of you using that thing


It's quite a stupid way really not dangerous though


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## Koi (Jun 30, 2019)

Koi said:


> It's quite a stupid way really but not dangerous though


And also failed the first time due to inexperience I forgot to heat it hot enough since it's hard steel causing the metal to crack upon hammering but succeeded the second time with another two chisels but I haven't quenched it yet. kept it soft for me 
For easier machining .Did it by rough cutting
Out the shape with a die grinder and then file to a precise dimension .Btw those single cut carbide rotary file can make very sharp chips .The pain is not intense but in a way irritating :-(


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## Koi (Jun 30, 2019)

Downunder Bob said:


> There you go, a quick, cheap homemade forge. All you have to do is find a disused car drive axle, or old spring even a torsion bar will work well, and make yourself a decent cold chisel. After hardening it, don't forget to draw the temper back to a medium straw colour, will depend a little bit on the steel. A good final check is if you can just file it, with a good sharp file, it's good to go.


Thanks for the advice


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## Koi (Jun 30, 2019)

bhigdog said:


> I tried to use a dremel tool to cut a slot once. The first hammer blow broke it to pieces.................


How


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## matthewsx (Jun 30, 2019)

Koi said:


> How


He's joking



Koi said:


> It's quite a stupid way really not dangerous though



Pictures or it didn't happen....

Cheers,

John


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## Koi (Jun 30, 2019)

matthewsx said:


> We need video of you using that thing


First picture is the three chisel I have tried to forge . the one the right side was my first attempt tried to hammer and realise the chisel wasn't heat up hot enough causing crack to appear when I hammer it.The two on the left I consider them to be a successful forge after that I filed them down .The second picture shows that I'm preheating the charcoal and the makeshift forge burner to make sure moisture is driven out so I can start the forge easier.Following up is where I ignited the forge and then fed it with a hair dryer the chisel wasn't heat up completely  the tip wasn't glowing but I'm just showing it's working.Didn't get to show you the picture of  me hammering the chisels though and I 
Even forgot to take a picture of me quenching.


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## matthewsx (Jun 30, 2019)

Nice work, I think I may need to get myself a forge now


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## Koi (Jul 1, 2019)

matthewsx said:


> Nice work, I think I may need to get myself a forge now
> [/QUOTE
> IT didn't cost me much bought the charcoal pack for like 20Myr and 15myr for the chisel
> Hammer was readily available and I took an iron bar from a metal press in my dad's car servicing workshop.That's about 7 us dollars you could still make a bigger forge and it won't cost that much.


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## Koi (Jul 2, 2019)

Can anybody teach me how to case harden the cchisel the easiest way I found out they weren't hard enough


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## Downunder Bob (Jul 2, 2019)

Koi said:


> Can anybody teach me how to case harden the cchisel the easiest way I found out they weren't hard enough


Koi, 

Case hardening is not good enough fro a cold chisel. You need to start with a grade of steel that can be through hardened. As I have said before an old car or truck spring coil or leaf doesn't matter. Even a torsion bar, or drive shaft from an axle, will give you a suitable grade of steel, anneal it first then use your forge to heat and shape it.

When you have got the shape you want heat it up, just the sharp end, to cherry red, and quench in oil, when cool it will need to be tempered, that is to draw the hardness back until it is still hard enough to take a good edge, but not so hard that it is still brittle. If you can just, and I mean just, file it that is about as good as it gets. Finish sharpen it and presto you have a new chisel.

There are many you tube videos and instructables on how to make  a cold chisel.

Just be careful when sharpening it keep the it cool frequent dipping in water to quench it. If the tip begins to colour, quench it and slow down keep it cool. Good luck.


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## Koi (Jul 2, 2019)

Downunder Bob said:


> Koi,
> 
> Case hardening is not good enough fro a cold chisel. You need to start with a grade of steel that can be through hardened. As I have said before an old car or truck spring coil or leaf doesn't matter. Even a torsion bar, or drive shaft from an axle, will give you a suitable grade of steel, anneal it first then use your forge to heat and shape it.
> 
> ...


Let's do it again
Btw what kind of advantages do  I have 
By  making the bottom flat and parallel to the body of the chisel


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## Downunder Bob (Jul 3, 2019)

Koi said:


> Let's do it again
> Btw what kind of advantages do  I have
> By  making the bottom flat and parallel to the body of the chisel




Not sure what you are trying to achieve here Koi. the top one is the closest to what a chisel should look like, although it appears to have  ansty crack in it. All of them are a bit too long and slender, you need to have more body behind the point, these look more like wood working chisels.


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## Koi (Jul 4, 2019)

Downunder Bob said:


> Not sure what you are trying to achieve here Koi. the top one is the closest to what a chisel should look like, although it appears to have  ansty crack in it. All of them are a bit too long and slender, you need to have more body behind the point, these look more like wood working chisels.


Ahh that one is bound useless already but I'm using the previous picture since it contains the successful ones and I want to achieve a cold chisel that can make a better cut than those commercially made chisel that has double sided bevel which is what I'm suspecting what's causing inconsistent cut


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## Koi (Jul 13, 2019)

ThinWoodsman said:


> I made a project of cutting a v-slot in a tooling plate using hand tools. No, it is not finished yet, but it is coming along surprisingly well given how badly it all started out.
> 
> I started the slot with a hacksaw, then used a cape chisel to widen it, then used square files to form the V. The chisel did not work well; chips would snap off before they even got to an inch long. The steel plate is some of that 1/4" mystery stuff they sell at the hardware store, and is much harder than I expected it to be.
> 
> ...


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## Koi (Jul 13, 2019)

bhigdog said:


> Chisels were once the  primary tools used for metal cutting, machining, as it were. It is a lost art perfected only with time and practice. I'm guessing there are a fair number of people proficient in the craft in some third world countries. Here not so much...............Bob


I think  I did it


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## Koi (Jul 19, 2019)

I think I did it guys sort of.I putted a slot on the side of a piece of stainless steel plate.


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## Downunder Bob (Jul 19, 2019)

Koi said:


> I think I did it guys sort of.I putted a slot on the side of a piece of stainless steel plate.




Progress, was that with a home made chisel, or a shop bought one? Well done one small step in your personal learning curve. I bet it mad you feel real good.


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## Koi (Jul 19, 2019)

Downunder Bob said:


> Progress, was that with a home made chisel, or a shop bought one? Well done one small step in your personal learning curve. I bet it mad you feel real good.


A shop bought one sadly.I know it's a turn off but it could be done but I don't wanna waste too much time on making one that's gonna work like what I expect it to be so I bought one and file it Down to approximately 6mm of width.It's a stanley btw and I feel really good about what I achieved for now.Oh yeah moral of the story,chisseling a quite accurate profile requires patience and a good judgement.


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## Downunder Bob (Jul 19, 2019)

Yes it is a skill, but like any other skill it can be learned, and patience is the main ingredient. You have started the learning curve, and have already been rewarded, stick with it and enjoy.


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## Koi (Jul 19, 2019)

I was planning on getting a round column mill but I think my hand tools might just be enough haven't got a dial indicator and a micrometer though


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## RJSakowski (Jul 19, 2019)

It is my understanding that the steel used for automotive axles is medium carbon steel.  Automotive springs can be a little higher but are generally not high carbon steel.   Older springs are more likely to be higher in carbon.  Some of the alloys used in recent times can be lower carbon.  In selecting reclaimed steels it is wise to consider what the original purpose was.  Automotive axles need to be tough, not hard.  1050 steel is a common choice.  Springs need to be resilient, not hard.  

For a cutting tool like a cold chisel, the edge must be hard enough to cut the object without deforming.or easily losing its edge.  A medium carbon steel will generally not reach that hardness.  1050 has an ultimate hardness of 58C.  By comparison,  O1 has an ultimate hardness of 65C and M2 HSS has an ultimate hardness of 66C and is usually tempered to a hardness in the low sixties HRC.  1095 has approximately 1% carbon which is commonly considered the minimum for cutting tools.  O1 tool steel also has around 1% carbon.  W1 tool steel runs slightly higher and was perhaps the original tool steel can reach an ultimate hardness of 67C.  A 400ºF temper will still leave it in the low to mid sixties, HRC.


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## ericc (Jul 19, 2019)

Looks really good Koi.  Keep an eye out for that mill.  Also remember that heat is your friend, especially if you can find a blacksmith to help you.


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## Tim9 (Jul 21, 2019)

You need the right chisels. + 1 on the Cape Chisel
A dremel with a cut off disc would also be a big plus IMO but to finish it....get the right chisels and read up first. There’s a good description online on using chisels for keyways....I think it’s the Navy machinist manual...or Army machinist manual. Google is your friend.


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## Koi (Jul 25, 2019)

Tim9 said:


> You need the right chisels. + 1 on the Cape Chisel
> A dremel with a cut off disc would also be a big plus IMO but to finish it....get the right chisels and read up first. There’s a good description online on using chisels for keyways....I think it’s the Navy machinist manual...or Army machinist manual. Google is your friend.


Will it be possible for a Dremel to reach a slot that's only approximately 4 by 5 by 2


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## Tim9 (Jul 28, 2019)

Dremel is only good for a key which has full access such as maybe a shaft. And you’re going to be using one of the small fiberglass cut off discs. Even then... I would finish the key with a cape chisel and small file. I’d go very slow. All said....it’s not an easy task IMO. If th e part is expensive or irreplaceable...bring it to a machine shop with mills and broaches. Just my opinion....


Tim9 said:


> You need the right chisels. + 1 on the Cape Chisel
> A dremel with a cut off disc would also be a big plus IMO but to finish it....get the right chisels and read up first. There’s a good description online on using chisels for keyways....I think it’s the Navy machinist manual...or Army machinist manual. Google is your friend.


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## Tim9 (Jul 29, 2019)

If you are trying to cut keyway inside a gear and had no machine tools then I would use a hacksaw blade to carefully cut a slot more narrow than needed but to the correct depth. Then finish with “cape chisel”  and file. A jewelry saw would be more accurate but with a jewelry saw one would have to use the saw while a hacksaw blade can be used without the saw frame if needed. 
  Good luck and take it slow.


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## Koi (Oct 7, 2019)

ThinWoodsman said:


> One of the old books I was reading mentioned using cutting oil when chiseling steel. Maybe I'll give that a go when I'm in the shop this afternoon, try out some good sulfurized cutting oil on some scrap.
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I bought one made my by toptul cuts into soft steel but I wish the width can be smaller though.


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