# A general Atlas lathe decision



## fireguyfire (Dec 26, 2020)

I’m looking at 2 Atlas lathes for purchase, and I’m hoping you guys and gals on here that know way more about these lathes can help me out.
Both lathes can be had for the same price.

Lathe #1 is a 1944 H54 in running but beat up condition and has a few things that go with it; i would need to track down parts for it to make it right.

Lathe #2 is an earlier 936 lathe that is in excellent working order and comes with a ton of nice accessories for it.

My plan will be to fully restore either lathe and put it back as close to factory as I can make it.

I don’t think the difference in bed length is a deal breaker for me.
Looking for opinions on which lathe a guy should but; I am really torn on the nicer earlier lathe, and the rougher later style with the longer bed!


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## Ulma Doctor (Dec 26, 2020)

for the same price, i would tend to go with a lathe that has more accessories and in better shape.
i refurbished a broken 1953 TH42 and spent a ton of money and a year doing it.
i could have spent the same and gotten a better lathe and spent my time machining instead of putting humpty dumpty together again


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## JPMacG (Dec 26, 2020)

Accessories and missing parts are costly.  It would be easy to spend $500 or more on accessories and missing parts.

But the primary consideration, in my mind, is how worn are the basic lathes?  Are the beds worn?  Are the spindle bearings OK?  Is the head aligned?  Are the Morse tapers damaged?   Do they run smoothly or vibrate?  Those sorts of things matter a lot.  It is not worth restoring a worn out lathe.


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## FOMOGO (Dec 26, 2020)

I think I would pass on both, unless the price is very low. Then if nothing else, you could part them out and make some cash toward something better. Much like Ulma Doc above, I got a 12" atlas as a pile of parts and rehabed it . I learned a lot through the process, but would have been money, and time ahead to get something in better shape.  Mike


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## fireguyfire (Dec 26, 2020)

The 936 was checked out by a machinist and he was very impressed with its mechanical condition, gear lash, etc.
The H54 is more worn for sure.


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## Larry$ (Dec 26, 2020)

I agree with all the above posts, unless you want to go into old machine restoration. Getting a sway back lathe bed ground is quite expensive. Few hobbyists are capable of bringing one back to factory specs by scraping. There are a lot of moving parts on a lathe and everyone of them wears out. If you decide to buy one, make it the one you think is in better condition and has more accessories. I have rarely turned long parts and you can use a steady as a work-around. The head stock bore will be more of an issue than the length of the bed.


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## fireguyfire (Dec 26, 2020)

The other interesting thing is the 936 seller is the grandson of the original owner so it is a 1 owner lathe since the late 30’s.


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## pdentrem (Dec 26, 2020)

I would buy the most complete and not the fixer as parts will be an expense above your initial cost. At least you are near Calgary, better chance for complete lathes or parts. Unlike others who are in the machinery deserts of the country. Just watch the pricing, as some think their stuff has to be the last one in the world or in mint condition!
Pierre


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## ShagDog (Dec 26, 2020)

fireguyfire said:


> The 936 was checked out by a machinist and he was very impressed with its mechanical condition, gear lash, etc.
> The H54 is more worn for sure.





fireguyfire said:


> The other interesting thing is the 936 seller is the grandson of the original owner so it is a 1 owner lathe since the late 30’s.



Sounds like a winner to me, if the price is right.


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## markba633csi (Dec 26, 2020)

Personally I prefer the Atlas models with roller bearing headstocks.  A plain bearing model can be tough to bring back to factory specs if you don't have the right equipment and some experience.  A roller bearing headstock, provided the bearings are in good shape, may only require a quick adjustment of the preload to meet runout specs. Much less hassle.
-Mark


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## Larry$ (Dec 28, 2020)

That Atlas site was really interesting, even though I don't have an Atlas. http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas-drills-31-32/
At one time Sears actually sold reasonable tools.


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## fireguyfire (Dec 28, 2020)

So I bought the 936 lathe today and am just about to start going through it.
There is almost no gear lash, and the ways are in great shape; also no play in either the tail piece or tool slides.
The lathe has lived since new on a bench in the finished basement of this old guys farm house, so it has never been in a shop.
It comes with a pile of accessories that I will need to figure out as well.
I will probably fully disassemble and restore it, but first it is covered in a dry varnish from old oil I’m guessing.
Any suggestions on the best product to clean this with? I was leaning towards Varsol.

When running the lathe is very quiet, and when putting my finger on the chuck, and all of the gears while running I can’t sense any vibration.

Is there a repop owners manual available for these lathes?


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## fireguyfire (Dec 28, 2020)




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## fireguyfire (Dec 28, 2020)




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## fireguyfire (Dec 28, 2020)




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## fireguyfire (Dec 28, 2020)




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## fireguyfire (Dec 28, 2020)




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## fireguyfire (Dec 28, 2020)

Is there a way I can date this old lathe?


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## Jim F (Dec 28, 2020)

I am confused by the number of belts.


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## fireguyfire (Dec 28, 2020)

I have no idea on the belts; it’s in as found condition and runs great; the belt de tensioner work well also.
I took a fine scotch brite pad and a bit of low odour varsol in the tail piece area and it really cleaned up nice; there is lots of factory paint still on it.
I also found a number stamped into the way on the tailpiece end as well; 4695 S.


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## fireguyfire (Dec 28, 2020)




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## JPMacG (Dec 28, 2020)

I'm confused by the number of belts too.  Maybe the "back gear" is belt driven?   It's nice that you have a steadyrest.  That is $200 if you needed to find one.  I would just clean everything in kerosene.  And I would replace the line cord with a grounded cord.


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## fireguyfire (Dec 28, 2020)




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## wa5cab (Jan 2, 2021)

I meant to comment earlier that the assembly that sits at the right end of the bed is called the tailstock.  And if it ever does show any side to-side movement, it has an adjustable gib.  The gib is adjusted by tightening two slotted head screws located down in-between the ways next to the front surface of the rear way.  After many years of inactivity, the gib may be stuck to the bottom of the tailstock.  The gib is attached to the bottom of the tailstock base by two round head screws.  To get at it, loosen the tailstock clamp and slide the tailstock off of the right end of the ways.

We don't have a manual on the 936 but the one on the Master Craftsman version is in Downloads.  The two models are identical except for badges and the left and right legs.  The guy at Sears responsible for the legs being different didn't retire until the early 50's.  After that, both badges used the same part number legs. 

Note that access to Downloads requires Donor status.  )Any level)

Also, I meant to comment on the belts (the how to use them is adequately explained in the manual).  The Atlas Compound Drive models have no back gears (which on the 10" and most later Atlas-built lathes are used to reduce the spindle RPM but which are more expensive and a little noisy).  Back gears are so named because in the beginning, all manufacturers put them on the back of the headstock.  Later lathes usually have them mounted underneath the spindle.  But the name stuck.


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## fireguyfire (Oct 10, 2021)

I am wanting to add a modern quick swap tool holder to my Atlas 936 lathe; it currently still has its original lantern style holder.
Can anyone recommend a make or model number of a rest that will work on my 936? 
I don’t want to buy something that won’t fit an Atlas.


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## wa5cab (Oct 10, 2021)

The 0XA is the right size for a 6" Atlas.  The AXA is the right size for a 10" and a 12" (either version) Atlas or Atlas-Craftsman.  I don't think that anyone has ever reported a 9" Atlas with a QCTP.  So I am afraid that if you pursue it, you will be the test case.  I would hate to guess one or the other and be proven wrong.  I think that you are going to have to get someone with a 10" Atlas and an AXA tool post to experiment with what it would look like if the spindle were 1/2" lower.  I would suggest chucking a piece of 1" solid round and see whether or not the holder can be lowered enough for a 3/8" square cutter and the cutter on a 1/2" diameter boring bar to fit under the 1"' round stock.


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## pdentrem (Oct 10, 2021)

I too used a AXA QCTP on my 10”. I did have the OXA originally but too small for 1/2” tools which are more common than 3/8”.
Pierre


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