# Fixing runout in faceplate and 4-jaw chuck, or call 'em defective?



## Jawn (Oct 25, 2014)

I recently bought a Grizzly G0602 lathe. After setting it up, I began taking measurements to see if there's any problems. The spindle taper and the shoulder on the outside of the spindle are true to an amount less than I can measure with a .0005 DTI. The 3-jaw chuck isn't too bad I guess (for straight out of the crate with no work), about .0025 radial runout with a 1/2" bar in it (both at the chuck, and same reading 4-5 inches out from the chuck). 

The faceplate, however... visibly wobbles. I measured about .010 axial runout near the edge. The 4-jaw chuck also wobbles visibly. Would you chalk it up to being a cheap import lathe and try to fix it yourself, or is that bad enough to want to try to "warranty" the stuff through Grizzly?

I suspect truing up the rear of the casting where it rests on the shoulder of the spindle may help.


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## pdentrem (Oct 25, 2014)

I had to face the face plate that came with the Jet BDB-1340A at work when it first came into the shop. It was totally useless until I did that. Just check the back of the plate where it hits the register on the spindle first. If it hits the shoulder squarely then do what I did and face the front.
Pierre


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## Andre (Oct 25, 2014)

Just take a skim cut on the faceplate. .0025 radial runout for a chuck is fine, and since it doesn't increase further out from the chuck means it's not wobbling like the faceplate.


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## Video_man (Nov 7, 2014)

As I understand it, the relatively thin castings of a faceplate tend to warp over time after they are cast due to the inevitable inner stresses, and truing a new one is pretty much standard.  I trued the one that came with my Grizzly 1031 about 15 years ago when it was new and it's been fine since.  But I will check it before I clamp anything critical to it.


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## Holescreek (Nov 8, 2014)

I would at least contact them about the 4 jaw wobble while it's still in warranty.


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## higgite (Nov 8, 2014)

Check the rear face of the 4-jaw for burrs. Make sure the chuck/spindle mating surfaces are clean and smooth. It doesn't take much to throw it off. When you say it visibly wobbles, is that with a piece of round stock chucked up and indicated on center?

If you have already done all that and it still wobbles, then I agree a call to Grizzly is in order.

Tom


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## coolidge (Nov 8, 2014)

Andre said:


> Just take a skim cut on the faceplate. .0025 radial runout for a chuck is fine, and since it doesn't increase further out from the chuck means it's not wobbling like the faceplate.



I second a skim cut and just be done with it. This is CHINA we are talking about. By the way a machine that can fix itself that's pretty cool.


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## Falcon67 (Nov 8, 2014)

I ran into this as I've discussed in my 12x36 Enco thread.  #1, make sure you can lock the plate in the spindle and get the same reading every time.  If you can do that, mark that position on the spindle and the plate.  I have one reference mark on the spindle and mark my plates next to that so they go back on in the same place.  After verifying you can lock it in the same every time, then take a skim cut on the face and mount the chuck.  

Got you beat, my 4 jaw plate runs like a swash plate, around .015 TIR.


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## tmarks11 (Nov 9, 2014)

Jawn said:


> The 4-jaw chuck also wobbles visibly. Would you chalk it up to being a cheap import lathe and try to fix it yourself, or is that bad enough to want to try to "warranty" the stuff through Grizzly?


Measure runout on the exterior of the chuck (which is a balance issue), and then runout on a ground bar (after centering) at 1", 3", 6".  If unsat (which I am sure it will be), call Grizzly and request a replacement.

I read a thread recently where the owner sweet talked Grizzly into crediting the value of the chuck against an upgrade to a Bison chuck.  Worth a shot, as I suspect you could go through several cheap Grizzly chucks before finding a satisfactory one. $200 credit against a $550 chuck would be a good deal in the end, and Grizzly has good prices on Bison chucks.


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## Dman1114 (Nov 21, 2014)

tmarks11 said:


> Measure runout on the exterior of the chuck (which is a balance issue), and then runout on a ground bar (after centering) at 1", 3", 6".  If unsat (which I am sure it will be), call Grizzly and request a replacement.
> 
> I read a thread recently where the owner sweet talked Grizzly into crediting the value of the chuck against an upgrade to a Bison chuck.  Worth a shot, as I suspect you could go through several cheap Grizzly chucks before finding a satisfactory one. $200 credit against a $550 chuck would be a good deal in the end, and Grizzly has good prices on Bison chucks.




good luck.....    i just sent back chuck #5   yes   they have probably spent more money on shipping chucks back n forth then it would cost to just give me the bison.

the guy told me when i first talked to them that paying the difference to upgrade it to a bison was an option....   but when it came down to it they wouldn't do it.

they even sent me a 10" one but it was just too much for my needs and when i spun the machine up on RPMs i thought it might walk out the shop the way it vibrated.  I've about had it.  if they send me another POS with the jaws not parallel I'm going to drive down there and i may even load the machine in the truck.... I haven't been able to use my 4 jaw yet.    been dealing with it for about 3 months they just keep sending them


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## JimDawson (Nov 21, 2014)

I think at some point I would just fix the chuck, and then never buy anything from them again.

Here is what I did, but I couldn't send mine back.  
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...uck-Adventures?p=234042&viewfull=1#post234042


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